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(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Sam Atkinson - Simon Hall - Andrew Szudek (Ed.) - Europe (2017, DK Publishing) PDF
(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Sam Atkinson - Simon Hall - Andrew Szudek (Ed.) - Europe (2017, DK Publishing) PDF
EUROPE
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
EUROPE
Project Editor Ferdie McDonald, Claire Marsden
DTP Designer Maite Lantaron The tholos beside the Sanctuary of Athena
Pronaia at Ancient Delhphi, Greece (see p485)
Maps Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes, James Macdonald (Colourmap Scanning Ltd)
Discovering Europe 10
Reprinted with revisions 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017
Copyright © 2001, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
Putting Europe
on the Map 18
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
Practical and Travel
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright
Information 20
owner and the above publisher of this book.
Britain and
Ireland
Great Britain 44
Ireland 110
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source
of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Front cover main image: Scuol Castle (Schloss Tarasp) on the hill in Engadine, Switzerland Statue of woman praying beside tomb of
Carlos I in Sao Vicente de Fora, Portugal
Santa Maddalena in Val di Funes at the foot of the Odle range, Italy
France and the
Low Countries
France 144
Belgium and
Luxembourg 212
The Iberian
Peninsula The historic center of Graz, overlooked by the thickly-wooded Schlossberg, Austria (see p600)
peaceful countryside,
Venice
The Peloponnese (see pp466–9), a large peninsula, connected
Turin
to the rest of the Greek mainland by the Corinth isthmus,
Parma abounds in ancient and medieval ruins. The heavily fortified
Genoa sea port of Monemvasía, in the southeastern corner, has many
Bologna well-preserved Byzantine and Venetian buildings.
1
Florence
At a Glance
Ancona
Siena
Rome
Irákleio
Crete
Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for centuries. Few
countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture, musical,
and literary traditions, its scenery, or its food and wine. Since World War II, Italy
has climbed into the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of
the customs, traditions, and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.
Italy has no single cultural identity. Germany and France, while the south
Between the snowy peaks of the Alps has suffered a succession of invasions
and the rugged shores of Sicily lies a from foreign powers: Carthaginians and
whole series of regions, each with its
own distinctive dialect, architecture,
Greeks in ancient times, Saracens and
Normans in the Middle Ages, and until Each country chapter has color-
and cuisine. There is also a larger regional the middle of the last century, the
division. People speak of two Italies:
the rich industrial north and the poorer
Bourbons from Spain held sway. coded thumb tabs.
agricultural south, known as Il Mezzogiorno History
(Land of the Midday Sun). Italy is a young country; it did not exist as
The north is directly responsible for a unified nation state until 1861. The idea
2
Italy’s place among the world’s top of Italy as a geographic entity goes back to
Introduction to a Country
industrial nations, a success achieved the time of the Etruscans, but prior to the
by names such as Fiat, Pirelli, Olivetti, 19th century, the only time the peninsula
Zanussi, Alessi, and Armani. The south, was united was under the Romans, who
Exploring Italy
Zurich
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Distance chart
Italy’s elongated shape means travel 1 Bolzano Cortina d'Ampezzo Rome Distance by road in kilometers
S4
2
S5
383
1
S42 Bologna
visit. Rome, Florence, and Venice Domodossola
Lake Como
A23
SLOVENIA 238
(Lago di Como) Belluno Udine
Trento Ljubljana 562 783
are naturally the main tourist Lake Maggiore S13 349 487
Brindisi
(Lago Maggiore) Lake Garda
destinations, but there are many A5 (Lago di Garda) Zagreb 278 106 832
Florence
Bergamo Treviso 173 66 517
other attractive historic towns and Aosta
Malpensa
Vicenza Trieste 510 291 1064 225
Brescia Verona Genoa
cities that merit a detour of a A4
3
A4 Linate 317 181 661 140
A4 Venice
MilanA Rijeka 575 990 299 145
couple of days or more. Visitors A5 210
Country Map
1 Mantua Padua (Venezia) 357 130 615 186 90 Milan
Po N482 (Padova)
with time to explore often choose
A7
to tour a particular region, such as A21 Ferrara 136 369 220 304 444 488
A2 2
3
Parma
S309
Turin
o
5 S1
(Genova) Bologna 530 154 928 255 397 273 741 402
A6 Venice
A10 Ravenna 329 96 577 158 247 170 460 250
are generally better in the north, S21 Portofino
where Milan, Bologna, and Verona Peninsula
A1 Rimini
SAN
Perugia
S1
A1
S77
HERZEGOVINA
Assisi
S 2 23
Piombino Ascoli
Todi
Bastia Elba Orvieto Sea Dubrovnikk
Pescara
4
N193
A2
Orbetello
L'Aquila
Viterbo
Corsica
Civitavécchia
4
Sulmona Tremiti
N198
the chapter.
48
2 Assisi pp388–9 i Vicenza Anzio A1
Foggia
Greece,
Egypt
N85
3 Perugia o Padua S 213
S87
S7
4 Siena pp390–92 p Venice pp414–23 Benevento A14 Bari
Naples
5 San Gimignano a Ferrara (Napoli) A16
S1
Greece
6
A14
Torres
Isola d'Ischia 16
S
Sassari
7 Pisa d Ravenna Brindisi
Amalfi
S 1 31
S18
06
0 Genoa h Pompeii
S1
S1
Palermo Reggio di
Highway
A1
A1 9
Mount Etna Taormina
SE Major road
alphabetical order. 0 km 80
Tunis
A
Agrigento S i c i ly
S11
A19 Catania
Railroad
International border
5 Syracuse Ferry route
0 miles 80 (Siracusa)
Tunis Isola di Ragusa
Pantelleria
Malta
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3 For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
4
Rome Greater Rome
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rising behind
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of the famous Spanish Steps
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Getting Around
S
D.PIR
PIAZZA
D I C A R ELL
G. L.
V I A D CAL LA
V
Rome’s subway system is known
BA
BERNINI
Sights at a Glance
O
w Roman Forum
IA
TT
V.
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VI E B A
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Stazione
A
G ID
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2 Vatican Museums pp378–80 r Colosseum Piramide
376 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E ROME 377
from northwest to southeast, Line
RME
RTA
Stazione
B from southwest to northeast. Roma- Key
4 Villa Farnesina y Trevi Fountain The two lines meet at Stazione Ostiense
5 Santa Maria in Trastevere u Spanish Steps Sight / Place of interest
6 Piazza Navona i Santa Maria del Popolo
Termini, the city’s central station,
which is also the starting point
1 St. Peter’s
Pedestrian street
. Statue of St. Peter
This 13th-century bronze is thought to
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
7 Pantheon o Museo e Galleria Borghese for many bus routes. A third Catholicism’s mostCity walls
sacred shrine, the . Dome be by Arnolfo di Cambio. The foot of the Practical Information
8 Galleria Doria Pamphilj p Villa Giulia metro line is due for completion The 137 m (448 ft) statue has worn thin from the kisses of
vast, marble-encrusted basilica draws Piazza San Pietro.
9 Gesù in 2018. Official taxis are white or 0 meters 750 dome, designed by millions of pilgrims over the centuries. Tel 06-69 88 37 31.
0 Capitoline Museums yellow. Walking is preferable to pilgrims and tourists from all over the Michelangelo, was not
0 yards 750 ∑ vatican.va
q Trajan’s Markets driving in the city’s narrow streets. world. A shrine was erected on the site completed until 1590, Basilica: Open 7am–7pm
of St. Peter’s tomb in the 2nd century long after his death. (Oct–Mar: to 6:30pm) daily. 7
and the first basilica was commissioned Treasury: Open 8am–7pm
by Constantine.For keys to symbols see back flap
Centuries later, in 1506, (Oct–Mar: to 6:15pm) daily. &
Grottoes: Open 8am–6pm
Pope Julius II laid the first stone of a (Oct–Mar: to 5:30pm) daily.
new church while the original basilica Dome: Open 8am–6pm
was still in use. The present basilica, (Oct–Mar: to 5pm) daily. &
Strict dress code inside church.
187 m (615 ft) long, took more than
numbered sights within the city. The dominant tone of the interior is set
by Bernini, creator of the baldacchino
below Michelangelo’s
. Michelangelo’s Pietà
Protected by glass since an attack in 1972,
magnificent dome. the Pietà stands in the first side chapel on
the right. It was created in 1499 when
Michelangelo was only 25.
color-coded floor plans to help you Sacristy. It houses ecclesiastical Alexander VII
treasures, including reliquaries, Bernini’s last work in St. Peter’s was
tombs, and vestments. finished in 1678 and shows the pope
surrounded by the allegorical figures
412 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E I TA LY 413
6
Verona’s patron saint, San Zeno
Maggiore is the most ornate
Romanesque church in northern
Italy, famous for its unusual
medieval bronze door panels.
Detailed Information
The Duomo also dates from
the 12th century and displays
Titian’s Assumption. Other notable
Cities, towns, and other sights
are described individually. Their
medieval churches in Verona are
San Fermo Maggiore, with
many interior frescoes including
the Annunciation by Pisanello
y Mantua
* 55,000. £ @ n Piazza Andrea
frescoes by Mantegna in the
Camera degli Sposi (1465–74),
are a highlight. They portray the
u Verona
* 261,000. k Villafranca 12 km (7
known locally as i gobbi.
T Arena
Piazza Brà. Tel 045-800 32 04.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio in Padua, with its Byzantine domes
of the section.
architecture, Mantua (Mantova The nearby Duomo has an ∑ tourism.verona.it Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045-806 26 by Palladio in 1571. Its upper ∑ turismopadova.it
in Italian) is bordered on three 18th-century façade and fine 11. Open daily. & = 8 (audio). rooms contain the city’s
sides by lakes. It was the interior stuccoes by Giulio Verona, a large and prosperous council chamber. Padua is an old university town
birthplace of the poet Virgil and Romano (c.1492–1546). city of the Veneto region, boasts Europe’s oldest surviving with an illustrious academic
playground for three centuries Piazza dell’Erbe is dominated magnificent Roman ruins,
i Vicenza indoor theater, the Teatro history. The city (Padova in
of the Gonzaga dukes. Mantua by the Basilica di Sant’ Andrea second only to those of Rome * 116,000. £ @ n Piazza Olimpico was begun by Italian) has two major
was also the setting for Verdi’s (15th century), designed largely itself, as well as some important Matteotti 12 (0444-99 47 70). ( Tue & Palladio in 1579 and attractions – the Basilica di
opera Rigoletto, and is by the early Renaissance medieval monuments. Thu. _ Concert season (May–Jun). completed by his pupil, Sant’Antonio, one of the
mentioned in Shakespeare’s architect and theorist, Alberti. The Arena, Verona’s Roman ∑ vicenzae.org Vincenzo Scamozzi. It most popular sites of
Romeo and Juliet. These Across town is the early amphitheater completed in was Scamozzi who pilgrimage in Italy, and
theatrical connections are 16th-century Palazzo Tè, AD 30, is the third largest in the Vicenza is celebrated for its created the permanent the Cappella degli
celebrated in local street names designed as the Gonzaga world. Concerts, plays, and splendid, varied architecture. stage, built of wood Scrovegni, a beautifully
and monuments, and are
reinforced by the presence in
the town of the 18th-century
family’s summer retreat. This
extraordinary palace is
decorated with frescoes by
opera productions are staged
here. Other Roman sites include
the Roman Theater, and artifacts
Known as the city of Andrea
Palladio (1508–80), stonemason
turned architect, it offers a
and plaster and painted
to look like marble. It
represents Thebes, a
decorated chapel. The
exotic Basilica was built
from 1232 to house
Each entry begins with essential
practical information, including
Teatro Scientifico Bibiena, a Giulio Romano and has rooms from Roman times can be seen unique opportunity to study the Greek city, and uses the remains of the great
masterpiece of late Baroque lavishly painted with horses and in the Museo Archeologico. evolution of his distinctive style. perspective to create Franciscan preacher,
theater architecture. signs of the zodiac. The tragic story of Romeo Piazza dei Signori at the an illusion of depth. St. Anthony of Padua.
7
prepared to wait in offices and banks, and to persevere when visa for stays of up to three meet you), buon giorno (good favorable exchange rates and
Emergency Services
Practical Information
months. Most European Union day), or buona sera (good charge a higher commission
seeking information. However, communications – other than
visitors need only a valid In case of emergencies while evening) are polite greetings. than banks. Post offices usually
the post office – are good, and banking and exchange facilities identity document to enter Italy. on vacation, the appropriate Say arrivederci on parting. have the lowest charges.
are widely available. Italy is generally safe for visitors and there Citizens from other countries numbers to call are listed in Kissing on the cheeks is
The larger countries are covered your trip. Rome, Florence, and
Venice are all crowded from
spring to October and it is
books in several languages.
Opening Hours
to defuse the situation.
Unofficial tour guides, taxi
drivers, or strangers who try to
Various medical products,
including homeopathic
medicines, are available in any
Facilities for the Disabled
Public awareness of the needs
of the disabled is improving
all other destinations). The
Italian postal service was once
renowned for its unreliability,
in greater detail.
advisable to reserve a hotel advise you on accommodations pharmacy (farmacia), but a quickly in Italy. CO.IN.Sociale but has improved in recent
well in advance. In August the Italian museums are gradually may expect money in return. prescription may be required. (Consorzio Cooperative years. The standard mail service
cities are generally slightly less conforming to new regulations, Women traveling alone in Thanks to a night rota (servizio Integrate) provides information is called prioritaria.
busy, and the seaside resorts particularly in the north, opening Italy are likely to meet with a lot notturno) – listed in the local on facilities for the disabled. The few public telephones
fill up. June and September daily from about 9am to 7pm, of attention, although this is pages of daily newspapers and remaining are generally card-
can be as hot as midsummer, but some still close on Mondays. often more of an irritation than on pharmacy doors – there is operated. A telephone card
but the beaches are less In summer, many museums stay a danger. Staff at hotels and always a pharmacy open in all Banking and Currency (scheda telefonica) can be
crowded. The skiing season open longer at weekends. In restaurants generally treat their cities and most towns. Italy has used the euro since purchased from bars, newspaper
runs from December to Easter. winter, opening times are more single female customers with 2002 (see p23). Banks open kiosks, post offices, and
limited. It is advisable to check extra care and attention. between about 8:30am and tobacconists (tabacchi). A corner
beforehand. Archaeological Language and Etiquette 1:30pm Monday to Friday. of the card must be broken off
Tourist Information sites usually open from 9am to People in Italy are very dress- Most also open from 2:15 to before use. Alternatively, many
Police
Directory boxes give contact
The national tourist board, ENIT, an hour before sunset, Tuesday conscious and unusual or risqué 3pm or 2:30 to 3:30pm. towns have telephone offices
has branches in capital cities to Sunday. Churches are open There are several different police clothes get noticed. Strict dress Electronic exchange (Telefoni) with low rates for
worldwide and offers general from about 7am to 12:30pm forces in Italy and each one codes are enforced in many machines, with multilingual long-distance calls. Here, you
information on Italy. Locally, and 4 to 7pm, but they often fulfills a particular role. Both the places of worship, where your instructions, are located at all are assigned a booth and pay
Climate charts (see p21) are summers characterize the 9/48 7/44 9/48
7/44 Via Nazionale.
4/40
northern regions. In the 0/32 APT Venice Tel 06-06 08. world/organisations/
Facilities for the
extensive Po Valley, arid 6 10 7 5 7 9 4 2 Castello 5050. british-embassy-rome
Embassies Disabled
summers contrast with
DISCOVERING EUROPE
The great cities of Europe are the key to a single trip, they are the hubs around which
discovering the countries in which they sit. national and international travel revolves,
In each, the visitor will get a real flavor of the with excellent rail, road, and air links. Each
history, culture, character, and, of course, of the following 14 itineraries offers a two-
cuisine of the nation – an ideal introduction day exploration of one of Europe’s most
for those on a short break. For visitors with beguiling cities, covering the must-visit
more time available, these cities provide a sights. From vibrant Barcelona to elegant
perfect base for exploring farther afield. For Stockholm, romantic Paris to revitalized
anyone keen to tour more of the continent in Berlin, there is something for everyone.
FINLAND
NORWAY
SWEDEN
Stockholm
North
Sea Baltic
IRELAND
DENMARK Sea
Dublin
G R E AT
B R I TA I N
Amsterdam Berlin
London NETHERLANDS
POLAND
Atlantic BELGIUM GERMANY
Ocean LUX.
Prague
Paris CZECH REP.
Munich Vienna
AUSTRIA HUNGARY
Bay of FRANCE SWITZERLAND
Biscay
Venice
PORTUGAL I T A LY
S PA I N
Barcelona Rome
Madrid
GREECE
Athens
Mediterranean Sea
0 kilometers 500
0 miles 500
•
Enjoy delightful canalside •
In London, royal heritage and discovered, as well as many
walks in leafy Amsterdam. history mingle with lively architectural delights.
•
Reminders of seven millennia contemporary culture. •
Rome has ancient ruins, great
of history are all around Athens. •
Tapas, flamenco, and great art, and a lively café culture.
•
Barcelona boasts Modernista museums: Madrid has the lot. •
Stockholm is a culture-packed
buildings and medieval history. •
Explore Munich’s architecture city in a lovely lakeside setting.
•
Modern Berlin is steeped in and art, and enjoy a stein or two. •
Exquisite Venice is a city that
history, including relics of a •
View the streets of Paris from seems to rise out of the water.
tumultuous 20th century. on high, atop the Eiffel Tower. •
Get a bird’s-eye view of the
•
Dublin provides art and •
Prague is full of historic and grand boulevards of Vienna
culture, plus great Guinness. cultural treasures waiting to be from its iconic Ferris wheel.
Two Days in
Amsterdam
•
Discover Amsterdam’s
distinguished history at
the Koninklijk Paleis
•
Stroll along the canals
of the delightful
Grachtengordel
•
Be moved by the Anne
Frank House
Day 1
Morning Start the day at the
Dam, a busy square in the city
center that is famous for its
buildings and frequent events. Crowds of people in bustling Dam Square, Amsterdam
Dodging the trams, proceed
to the Nieuwe Kerk (p244), Afternoon After lunch, visit Afternoon Make your way,
one of Amsterdam’s most the city’s third major museum, via the Tower of the Winds
impressive Gothic buildings. the Stedelijk Museum (p251), (p453) in the Roman Agora,
Afterward, pop next door to a gallery devoted to modern down to bustling Plaka (p453)
explore the Koninklijk Paleis and contemporary art. for a late lunch of mezédes.
(p244). This royal palace was Alternatively, if museum fatigue Spend the afternoon browsing
built in the 17th century, when is setting in, venture out from Plaka’s quirky crafts and
the city was at its richest, as the the tourist zone to explore antiques shops, then head
town hall. Inside, the highlight the maze-like streets of the over to the Temple of
is a magnificent marble Jordaan (p246) or rest your Olympian Zeus (p457) for
chamber, the Citizens’ Hall. legs on a relaxing canal tour dramatic sunset views of the
by boat (p259). Acropolis through Hadrian’s
Afternoon Take a stroll along Arch (entry is included in the
the Singel, the first of the price of your Acropolis ticket).
four canals that make up the
Two Days in Athens
Grachtengordel (p246), or Day 2
“girdle of canals”. This is •
Explore the Parthenon Morning Devote part of the
Amsterdam at its most and other magnificent morning to the amazing flea
beguiling, its olive-green ruins of Ancient Greece market and stores of lively
canals spanned by hump- •
Get lost among the flea Monastiraki (p452). Pick up a
backed bridges. Don’t miss markets and antiques stalls selection of delicious freshly
the interesting exhibition at of Monastiraki and Plaka made savories and cakes
Het Grachtenhuis (p246) from one of the many bakeries
•
Admire exquisite works
or the Renaissance Westerkerk here, then pause for a picnic
of art and craftsmanship
(p246), with its mighty spire. lunch in the shaded oasis of
at the Museum of
Next, head for the Anne Frank the National Gardens on your
Cycladic Art and the
House (p245), where the way to the Byzantine and
renowned National
teenage Jewish diarist hid from Christian Museum (p457).
Archaeological Museum
the Nazis during World War II.
Afternoon Having marveled at
Day 2 Day 1 the rich gold Hoard of Mytilene
Morning Spend a couple of Morning Start early to beat and the rare icons and frescoes,
hours at the Rijksmuseum the worst of the crowdsand move on to the nearby
(pp248–50), Amsterdam’s wander through the ruins Museum of Cycladic Art
principal art museum, admiring of the Ancient Agora (p453). (p457), with its exquisite works
its fabulous collection of Visit the museum in the Stoa of ancient art, and the
Dutch paintings, especially of Attalos, which displays items fascinating Benáki Museum
the Rembrandts. Afterwards, unearthed during excavations, (p457), housed in a beautiful
visit the Van Gogh Museum then make your way up to the mansion. Alternatively, catch
(p251), which is devoted to Acropolis (pp454–6) and spend a bus across town to the vast
arguably the greatest of all the rest of the morning National Archaeological
Dutch painters and contains admiring the Parthenon (p456) Museum (p452), whose
a remarkable collection of and visiting the New Acropolis spectacular collections include
his work. Museum (p456). many rare and unique exhibits.
12 VISITING EUROPE
Day 2
Morning Head to the Eixample
district, home to Antoni Gaudí’s
extraordinary Sagrada Família
(pp302–3), its towers visible
across the city, yet still awaiting
completion. You’ll want to The majestic cupola of the Berliner Dom, Berlin
DISCOVERING EUROPE 13
•
Marvel at the beautiful
illuminated Book of Kells
•
Explore lively Temple Bar
•
Discover Dublin’s past
The Victorian Tower Bridge, spanning the River Thames in London
at Dublinia and the
Viking World
strip bustling with shoppers Afternoon Head to
and street performers. Visit the Chinatown (p58) for dim sum,
Day 1 National Gallery of Ireland then spend an hour or two
Morning Devote an hour to (p119) to see the small but admiring works by Van Eyck,
the magnificent National significant collection of Irish Van Gogh, and Constable at
Museum of Ireland – and international art. In the the National Gallery (p57). If
Archaeology (p119). Afterward, evening, enjoy the “craic” in one there’s time before the show,
visit Trinity College (p118) to of the south side’s lively pubs. head to Covent Garden’s Piazza
see the breathtaking Book of and Central Market (p59) to
Kells exhibition, and take a watch the street performers.
break in the college’s lovely Two Days in London
grounds. From here, it’s a short Day 2
walk to Temple Bar (p120), a •
Enjoy a spin on the Coca- Morning Begin the day at Sir
good place to stop off for lunch. Cola London Eye Christopher Wren’s glorious
•
Admire Wren’s masterpiece, masterpiece, St. Paul’s
Afternoon Venture a little way St. Paul’s Cathedral Cathedral (p66). Highlights
out of the center to visit the here include the Whispering
•
Take a Beefeater tour of
Guinness Storehouse (p123) Gallery, the spectacular dome,
the Tower of London
and find out all there is to and the crypt. Next, walk to the
know about the nation’s famous Tower of London (pp68–9),
brew. If the weather allows, Day 1 allowing two hours to join an
spend some time in Phoenix Morning Start off by examining entertaining Beefeater tour,
Park (p123), Europe’s largest the monuments to England’s and inspect the murderous-
enclosed city park, which kings and queens on a self- looking Tudor weaponry in
encompasses a zoo. In the guided tour of Westminster the White Tower. Afterward,
evening, see a play at the Abbey (pp54–5). Don’t miss cross the iconic Tower Bridge
wonderful Gate Theatre (p123). the intricate Lady Chapel and (p67) to Bankside and admire
peaceful cloisters. Next, wander the design and height of The
Day 2 through Parliament Square into Shard (p67), which dwarfs the
Morning Begin your day with idyllic St. James’s Park (p56), surrounding buildings.
a visit to the architecturally with its pelicans and black
eclectic Christ Church swans, reaching Buckingham Afternoon Select something
Cathedral (p121). Just across Palace (p56) in time for some delicious for lunch from one
the road is Dublinia and the pomp and circumstance at of the artisan food stalls or
Viking World (p121), where the the 11:30am Changing the cafés at Borough Market (p99),
history of Viking Dublin is on Guard ceremony. If it’s fall or then stroll to Shakespeare’s
display. Take the excellent tour winter, try Horse Guards Globe (p67) for an enthralling
of Dublin Castle (pp120–21) Parade (p53) instead. Walk auditorium tour. Next door is
and visit its Chester Beatty through stately Trafalgar Tate Modern (pp66–7), housing
Library to see a range of Square (p58) into the West End, paintings and art installations
beautiful historic manuscripts. and buy theatre tickets for the on a grand scale. End the day
evening at bargain prices from with a ride on the Coca-Cola
Afternoon Stroll down Grafton the official cut-price booth on London Eye (p53), timing it to
Street (p119), a pedestrianized Leicester Square (p58). coincide with sunset.
14 VISITING EUROPE
Day 2
The Gran Vía, Madrid’s principal shopping street Morning The Bavarian kings
reveal their impeccable taste
Afternoon Head to the Centro again through their splendid
Two Days in Madrid de Arte Reina Sofía (p281) in art collection, hung in the
time for lunch at the chic café- Alte Pinakothek (p523). You
•
Surround yourself with restaurant, then spend the can easily lose the morning
masterpieces at the Prado rest of the day at this superb among its Old Masters, which
•
Enjoy the glamor and glitz contemporary art museum. provides a comprehensive
of the Gran Via Admire Picasso’s powerful lesson in German art history.
Guernica and works by Gaudí, If your tastes veer more
•
Feast on the mouth-
Miró, and Dalí, among others. towards modern art, visit the
watering morsels served
In the evening, take a tour of neighboring Neue Pinakothek
in countless tapas bars
the city’s lively tapas bars. (p523) and the Pinakothek
der Moderne (p524). Make time
Day 1 to walk to nearby Königsplatz,
Morning Start the day at
Two Days in Munich where the Neoclassical
Plaza Mayor (p274), the huge Glyptothek (p523) reveals why
arcaded square in Madrid’s •
Admire the regal splendor Munich was nicknamed
historic heart, then take a and priceless treasures of “Athens on the Isar”. The
relaxed stroll around the the Residenz nearby Staatliche Antiken
surrounding cobbled streets. •
Enjoy a foaming tankard sammlungen (p523) displays
Head into the pretty of beer and some hearty Ludwig I’s antiquities.
19th-century Mercado de Bavarian cuisine
San Miguel, just off the square, Afternoon The Deutsches
•
Leave the city center for
for a gourmet lunch at one of Museum (p524) is unbeatable
the pastoral delights of
its many chic tapas bars. for rainy days, with 20,000
Schloss Nymphenburg
arts and science exhibits
Afternoon Visit the magnificent spread over seven floors.
Museo Nacional del Prado Day 1 Alternatively, head to Schloss
(pp278–80), Spain’s biggest Morning There’s no finer
museum. Highlights here introduction to Munich than the
include the superlative Las Marienplatz (p522), with its two
Meninas by Velázquez, and a monuments of civic pride: the
host of the artist’s other works, Neues Rathaus, its facade a
created for the Spanish Habs- carnival of statues, and the
burg monarchs. The charming Altes Rathaus. The soaring
gardens at the sumptuous Ritz Frauenkirche (p522),
(p277) next door are ideal for a unmissable because of its
post-museum cocktail. domed spires, is the image on
almost every souvenir beer
Day 2 tankard; the other highlight of
Morning Stroll along the Munich’s sacred architecture
Gran Vía (p275), Madrid’s is the Asamkirche (pp522–3),
glittering answer to New an enchanting example of
York’s Broadway, admiring Bavarian Rococo. Stop for a
the turn-of-the-20th-century sauerbraten and a stein at any
theaters, as well as some of of Munich’s famous beer halls;
the city’s first skyscrapers. The for example, Hofbräuhaus, the
street is now a shopping mecca, site of Hitler’s infamous Beer The iconic onion domes of the Frauenkirche
packed with flagship stores. Hall Putsch. in Munich
DISCOVERING EUROPE 15
•
Marvel at the treasures in
the Vatican Museums
•
See the sites of the ancient
city, including the
spectacular Colosseum
•
Watch the world go by
from the Spanish Steps
The gardens of the Vatican Museums, Rome
Day 1
Morning Devote a full day to Day 2 the Changing of the Guard
the Vatican and St. Peter’s. The Morning Wander through the at the Royal Palace (p606),
fast route through the Vatican evocative ruins of the Roman before heading indoors to
Museums (pp378–80) takes in Forum (p384) and onward to visit some of its 608 grand
the Sistine Chapel (p380). Don’t the monumental Colosseum rooms. Within the palace
miss Michelangelo’s Creation of (p385). Next, visit the Palatine there are also two museums.
Adam on the ceiling and his (p385), the leafy hill on which Next, head west to tiny
dynamic altarpiece, The Last Rome’s emperors once lived. Riddarholmen, home to
Judgment. The Raphael Rooms Riddarholmskyrkan (p606),
(p380) show another Renaissance Afternoon For city views, the final resting place of the
master at his peak. head up to the Capitoline Swedish sovereigns. Have
Museums (p383). The Palazzo lunch by the water here – it’s
Afternoon Do not miss Nuovo has a selection of Greek less busy and more pleasant
Michelangelo’s Pietà inside and Roman statues. For some than Gamla Stan.
the awe-inspiring St. Peter’s respite, visit the pretty 17th-
(pp376–7). Climb the dome for century gardens of the Museo e Afternoon Visit Stadshuset
views, then descend to the Galleria Borghese (p387). Climb (pp606–7), scene of the annual
papal tombs. Afterward, cross the Spanish Steps (p386), Nobel Prize festivities, built in
the Tiber to the centro storico. taking time for some people- National Romantic style. Take
Admire the Pantheon (p382), watching at a café on Piazza di a break by enjoying the many
the only ancient Roman temple Spagna, and cast a coin into the delights of Kungsträdgården
to survive intact, then spend the Baroque Trevi Fountain (p386). (p607), the former royal kitchen
evening among the Baroque gardens, before heading to the
fountains and cafés of Piazza magnificent Nationalmuseum
Navona (p382).
Two Days in (p607). Afterwards, enjoy the
Stockholm nightlife at Stureplan (p607).
•
Explore Gamla Stan’s Day 2
historic buildings and Morning Take a ferry to
medieval cobbled streets the peninsula of Djurgården
•
Enjoy a restful afternoon and spend a couple of hours at
walk in the Kungsträd Vasamuseet (p608). Housing
gården, the former royal the world’s only preserved
kitchen gardens 17th-century warship, this
is one of the city’s must-see
•
Hop on a ferry to enjoy
museums. Weather permitting,
the varied pleasures of the
take a picnic lunch and
Djurgården peninsula
eat alfresco in one of the
peninsula’s parks.
Day 1
Morning Spend the morning Afternoon Visit Skansen
wandering around the city’s (p608), the world’s first
historic hub, the Gamla Stan open-air museum, home to
district. Here, you can admire 150 historic buildings from
the Gothic and Baroque across Sweden. Here you can
The splendid Gothic interior of the interior of the Storkyrkan watch craftsmen and women
Storkyrkan, Stockholm (p605), then, at noon, catch demonstrate traditional
DISCOVERING EUROPE 17
Stavanger
A t la n t ic Inverness Kristiansand
Oc e a n Aberdeen
Glasgow Edinburgh
North
Belfast Newcastle S ea
Galway
Dublin
G R E AT
IRE L AND
BRITAI N
Cork Birmingham
Amsterdam
Harwich
Cardiff
London NETHERLANDS
Southampton Dover Düsseldorf
Brussels
Calais
Le Havre BELGIUM
LUX.
St-Malo Luxembourg
Paris Metz
Rennes
Stuttgart
0 km 250 Nantes Dijon
Tours
Zürich
0 miles 250 Bern
Bay of
Bisc ay Niort
FRANCE
SWITZ.
Lyon Geneva
Bordeaux Milan
A Coruña
Santander Turin
Oporto Genoa
Bilbao Toulouse
Marseille Nice
Lisbon
Valencia
Palma Menorca Sardinia
Key
Mallorca
Highway Seville Ibiza Cagliari
Faro Alicante
Granada
Major road
Gibraltar
Me d i te rra n e a n S e a
Ferry route Málaga
International boundary Tangier
Algiers
Melilla
MOROCCO ALGERIA
Turku
Helsinki St Petersburg
Oslo SWEDEN Tallinn Yaroslavl
Örebro Nizhny
Novgorod
Stockholm ESTONIA
Moscow
Gothenburg
Hirtshals Gotland
LATVIA
Riga Samara
Aalborg
RUSSIAN
B a ltic
Copenhagen Sea
F E D E R AT I O N
LITHUANIA
Malmö RUS.
DENMARK Kaliningrad FED Minsk
Lübeck Gdansk BELARUS Voronezh
Hamburg
Bremen
POLAND
Berlin
Hanover Poznan Warsaw
Kharkiv
Volgograd
GERMANY Wroclaw
Kiev
Frankfurt Prague
Krakow
L'viv UKRAINE
CZECH Rostov-na-Don
REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA
Vienna Kishinev Krasnodar
Munich Linz
Budapest MOLDOVA
AUSTRIA
Innsbruck HUNGARY ROMANIA
SLOVENIA
Venice Zagreb
Trieste C R OAT IA Constanta
Bucharest Bla ck Se a
Bologna BOSNIA- Belgrade
HERZEGOVINA
Florence SERBIA
Ancona
Sarajevo BULGARIA
Livorno
Sofia
I TA LY MONTE- KOSOVO
NEGRO Skopje Istanbul
MACEDONIA
Rome Tirane
Bari Bursa
Thessaloniki Ankara
Naples ALBANIA
Brindisi
Lárisa TURKEY
Corfu
Konya
Izmir Adana
Palermo Kefalloniá Athens
Zákynthos Antalya
Sicily Catania GREECE SYRIA
Rhodes
Tunis
CYPRUS
Malta Crete LEBANON
TUNISIA
Mediterranean Sea
ISRAEL
20 VISITING EUROPE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Millions of visitors travel to Europe for of Europe is more accessible. This section
reasons many Europeans take for granted – gives information on practical matters,
the rich diversity of history, architecture, such as passport formalities and how to
art, and landscape. In Western Europe, get around. Many countries are members
tourist facilities are generally of a high of the European Union, with certain laws
standard, while in the former Communist in common, but there are also notable
countries of Eastern Europe their scope differences. In each country chapter a
and quality have improved significantly Practical Information section gives
over the past decade. As a result, the whole specific details for visitors.
process applies on returning to insured before you leave home. seafood shacks, regional rest-
your home country with goods Keep valuables well concealed, aurants, and Michelin-starred
acquired in Europe. especially in crowds. fine dining. For the best of each
country, look out for entries
Insurance and Medical designated as DK Choices. Each
Value Added Tax Treatment of these has one or more
In the EU, all goods and services Travel insurance is essential to exceptional features, such as a
(except certain items, such as cover any loss or damage to your stunning location, a compelling
food and children’s clothes) are possessions and for unexpected history, or a special ambience.
subject to a Value Added Tax, medical treatment. Many credit
known as VAT in the UK, which is cards offer some insurance if you Conversion Chart
included in most prices. If you purchase your flights or vacation
are not a European Union citizen, package with them, so check this Officially, the metric system is
you may get a refund of this tax. before buying a separate policy. If used throughout Europe, but in
Britain imperial measures are
The easiest way to do this is to possible, buy one which pays for
also used. British pints and
shop where you see the “Euro medical treatment on the spot,
gallons are 20 percent larger
Free Tax” sign, although the rather than a policy which re- than US measures.
stores that offer this service may imburses you later. Most general
be expensive or sell only luxury policies do not cover potentially Imperial to Metric
goods. After showing your dangerous activities, such as 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters
passport to the shop assistant climbing, skiing, or scuba diving – 1 foot = 30 centimeters
and completing a form, the VAT these cost extra. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
will be deducted from your bill. 1 ounce = 28 grams
In certain countries you need 1 pound = 454 grams
to keep your receipts and VAT Recommended Hotels 1 US pint = 0.47 liter
forms and present them at the and Restaurants 1 UK pint = 0.55 liter
Tax Refund desk with your The hotel and restaurant options 1 US gallon = 3.8 liters
unopened purchases when you in this guide have been selected 1 UK gallon = 4.6 liters
leave the country. These forms across a wide range of prices and
are processed and a refund will locations. Hotels have been Metric to Imperial
1 millimeter = 0.04 inch
be sent to your home address. chosen for their excellent
1 centimeter = 0.4 inch
facilities and good value, and vary
1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
from five-star luxury retreats to 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
Travel Safety Advice boutique hotels, humble B&Bs, 1 gram = 0.035 ounce
Visitors can get up-to-date safety and historic lodgings. The 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
information from the Foreign selected restaurants adhere to a 1 liter = 2.1 US pints
and Commonwealth Office in criterion of great food and atmo- 1 liter = 1.76 UK pints
the UK, the State Department in sphere. These include no-frills
the US and the Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade in The Climate of Europe
Australia.
As a continent that ranges south from the Arctic Circle to just north
Personal Security of the tropics, Europe experiences a diversity of climates, yet because
it is influenced by the warm Gulf Stream, its climate is, overall, much
Europe is one of the safest places
more temperate than other areas at the same latitudes. The Practical
to travel, but you should always
Information section for each country contains a panel, like the one
take safety measures. If you are below, giving details of average temperatures, rainfall, and sunshine
traveling alone, it is best to avoid for each season of the year.
deserted and poorly lit buildings
and back streets. If you should
be a victim of crime, report it ROME
immediately to the police. Pick- Average daily maximum temperature
pockets are common through-
°C/ºF
out Europe, but certain crimes 29/84
are worse in certain countries – 22/72
specific information is given in 18/64 19/68 Average daily minimum temperature
13/55 12/54
the Practical Information section 9/48
4/40
of each country chapter.
The safest way of carrying 6 10 7 5
Average daily hours of sunshine
money is in the form of traveler’s hrs hrs hrs hrs
checks (see p22), which allow 51 21 95 87
you to keep your cash to a mm mm mm mm
minimum. Never leave your month Apr Jul Oct Jan Average monthly rainfall
belongings unattended, and
make sure they are adequately
22 VISITING EUROPE
The Euro Eurozone countries. The coins, out of joining this common
Entering circulation in 2002, the however, have one side identical currency, such as the UK. For
Euro (€) is the common currency (the value side), and one side currency information for
of the European Union (EU). with an image unique to each nations that are not part of the
Countries that use the Euro as country. Both notes and coins Eurozone nor EU members refer
sole official currency are known are exchangeable in each of the to the Practical Information
as the Eurozone. Euro notes participating Euro countries. sections found at near the end
are identical throughout the Several EU members have opted of each country’s chapter.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
color) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow), and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents,
and 1 cent. The €1 and €2 coins are both silver and
gold in color. The 50-, 20-, and 10-cent coins are
gold. The 5-, 2-, and 1-cent coins are bronze.
24 VISITING EUROPE
rates. The main drawback with Fly-Drive can be the least expensive way
these tickets is that they are Many airlines, as well as to go. Indeed, if you want to get
usually non-refundable. They numerous travel companies, to destinations such as Portugal
also tend to land at remote offer fly-drive packages, which or Greece quickly, flying is almost
airports and at wildly unsocial combine air fares and car rental. the only option. However,
hours. The level of in-flight These deals are often worth between major cities, such as
service and comfort is usually considering, as they give you Berlin and Paris, you could go by
lower, too. flexibility and offer a saving train, which is almost as quick
over arranging the two and cheap, and saves the trouble
parts separately. of getting to an airport (see p26).
Package Deals It is best to avoid flying
One of the easiest ways to between major cities on
arrange your visit to Europe is Internet Booking Friday evenings and early
to book a package vacation. The Internet is also a popular Monday mornings because
These are offered by all the way of booking tickets. Two these flights can be crowded
major airlines, as well as various of the best sites for this are with European commuters.
reputable independent Expedia and Opodo. Expedia As with transatlantic flights,
companies, such as Central has a system called a “Fare you can get cheaper tickets by
Holidays and American Tracker” whereby you fill in a booking early. The best cities
Express. They normally form online and they email for finding good deals from
include flights, transfers, you information when tickets “bucket shops” are London,
and accommodations, and become available. The US Athens, and Amsterdam.
sometimes side trips and food, company Europebyair also
and the cost can be far less provides excellent deals on
than if you were to buy these flights to Europe. It offers a Low-Cost Airlines
separately. While an excellent Flight Pass for non-European Recent years have seen the
way of reducing the strain of citizens, valid for 62 European emergence of so-called “no frills”
organizing your vacation, the cities and one-way flights airlines in Europe, such as
downside with a package between these destinations, Ryanair, easyJet, Air Berlin, and
tour is that it usually involves for a very reasonable price. Eurowings, which offer very
traveling in large numbers on competitive prices. A return
specific flights to a hotel which, flight from London to Berlin, for
because the price has been Flights Within Europe example, can cost as little as £50
pared to the bone, may not There is an extensive flight ($70). To keep prices down, there
offer a high standard of food network serving most major is usually less legroom, on-board
or facilities. On the other hand, cities, making it quick and easy catering, and checked luggage
there are specialist package- to fly within Europe. If you are costs extra. Outlying airports
tour operators that do offer traveling some distance, and may also be used. Unless you
top-quality hotels and use especially between Great Britain must have these benefits, the
scheduled flights. and other parts of Europe, flying price justifies the inconvenience.
DIRECTORY
European KLM Trailfinders Internet Booking
National Airlines Tel 1-866 434 0320 (US). 194 Kensington High St,
Europebyair
Tel 01300 392 192 (Aus). London W8, UK.
Air France ∑ europebyair.com
∑ klm.com
Tel 020-7938 3939
Tel 800-237 2747 (US). Expedia
Lufthansa (for long-haul travel).
Tel 1-300 39 01 90 (Aus). ∑ expedia.com
Tel 800-645 3880 (US). Tel 020-7937 1234
∑ airfrance.com Tel 1-300 655 727 (Aus). Opodo
(for European travel).
∑ lufthansa.com ∑ opodo.com
Alitalia ∑ trailfinders.com
SAS
Tel 212-903 3568 (US).
Tel 800-221 2350 (US).
Low-Cost Airlines
∑ alitalia.com Package Deals
Tel 300 727 707 (Aus). Air Berlin
British Airways ∑ flysas.com American Express ∑ airberlin.com
Tel 800-247-9297 (US). Tel 1800-297 2977 (US). easyJet
Travel Agents
Tel 1-300 767 177 (Aus). ∑ americanexpress. ∑ easyjet.com
∑ britishairways.com STA Travel com/travel Eurowings
2871 Broadway,
Iberia Central Holidays ∑ germanwings.com
New York, NY 10025, US.
Tel 800-772 4642 (US). Tel 212-865 2700. Tel 800-539 7098. Ryanair
∑ iberia.com ∑ statravel.com ∑ centralholidays.com ∑ ryanair.com
26 VISITING EUROPE
NOR
Great Britain
Dartmoor in southwest England is a wilderness of great N orth
natural beauty. The windswept open moorland at the Sea
area’s bleak and isolated heart has inspired many IRELAND
romantic tales. G R E AT
B R I TA I N
NETHERLANDS
France
BELGIUM &
The wine-producing LUXEMBOURG
regions of France, such
as Champagne, boast
lush, fertile vegetation,
with row upon row of
neatly planted vines.
SWITZERLAND
B ay o f
B iscay FRANCE
PORTUGAL
SPAIN
Me d i t e r r a n e a n
Portugal
The interior of southern Portugal is
largely characterized by parched plains
dotted with cork oaks and olive trees, 0 km 250
and vast dusty wheat fields stretching
uninterrupted to the horizon. 0 miles 250
St Peter’s Square in the Vatican City, with Rome in the background, Italy
THE LANDSCAPES OF EUROPE 31
Hungary
North of the Hungarian
capital, the Danube
flows through a verdant
landscape of vineyards,
orchards, and thickly
wooded hills. Known as
the Danube Bend, this is
one of the river’s most
beautiful stretches.
FINLAND
W AY
SWEDEN
Baltic
DEN MA R K Sea
POLAND
GERMANY
Switzerland
CZECH Switzerland’s landscape is dominated by the Alps,
REPUBLIC Europe’s highest mountain range. Dramatic,
snow-covered peaks, stunning vistas, and a range
of first-class winter sports facilities draw millions of
AUSTRIA HUNGARY visitors to this part of Europe every year.
ITALY
Sea GREECE
Greece
The Greek mainland and islands have some
of Europe’s finest coastal scenery. There are
thousands of beaches, ranging from small
rocky coves backed by pine-clad cliffs to
broad swathes of golden sand.
32 E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
Louvre, Paris
The celebrated home of
the Mona Lisa and the
Venus de Milo, the Louvre
also houses Jean
Watteau’s melancholy
study Gilles or Pierrot
(c.1717), one of many
French works on display
(see pp158–60).
Prado, Madrid
The former royal collection in Madrid
(see pp278–80) contains the finest
assembly of Spanish paintings in the
world. Of many highly individual works,
Goya’s Saturn Devouring His Son is one
of the most powerful.
G R E AT M U S E U M S A N D G A L L E R I E S 33
The Hermitage,
St. Petersburg
The Hermitage (see
p658) houses an
impressive collection
of Impressionist
paintings, such as
Woman Combing
her Hair (c.1885)
by Edgar Degas.
Kunsthistorisches
Museum, Vienna
Based on the imperial collections
of the Habsburgs, the museum
(see p562) houses archaeology,
paintings, and sculpture, such as
this woodcarving of the
Madonna (c.1495) by Tilman
Riemenschneider.
Uffizi, Florence
The Uffizi (see pp404–6) was built originally as
the “offices” of the Medici rulers of Florence.
Transformed into a gallery in 1581, the building
now displays such masterpieces as The Annunciation
by Leonardo da Vinci.
0 km 250
0 miles 250
447 BC Work
c.1200 BC begins on the
Collapse of Parthenon, the
Mycenaean great temple
culture dedicated to
Athena on the
6th century BC Etruscan Acropolis in
sarcophagi topped with lifelike Athens (see
terra-cotta sculptures of the pp454–6)
deceased (see p387)
c.1700 BC First Minoan palace at Knossos on Crete 6th century BC Greek vases of the
destroyed. A new palace was immediately built to replace red-figure type start to appear. The
it. This colorful scene is one of many fine Minoan frescoes figures are left in the color of the clay,
in the Irákleio Archaeological Museum in Crete (see p476) silhouetted against a black glaze. They
often show scenes of myth and legend,
such as the Trojan War
201 BC Rome
defeats
Carthaginians
and expands
rapidly to
dominate
Mediterranean
AD 476 Fall of
Western Roman
Empire 6th century AD Byzantine
338 BC Philip II
defeats Greeks, mosaics in church of
making Macedon Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in
great power Ravenna (see p425). Ravenna
AD 117 Roman Empire at remained an outpost of the
greatest extent on death Byzantine Empire until AD 752
of Emperor Trajan
323 BC Death of
Alexander the AD 395 Division of Roman
Great. His empire Empire into eastern and 6th century AD Byzantines
stretches from western halves reconquer much of Italy, but
Macedon to then lose most of their gains
northern India AD 313 Edict of Milan: to the Lombards
Christianity favored by
Roman emperor AD 711 Moorish
Constantine invasion of Spain
1386 Union of
crowns of Poland
and Lithuania,
1517 Martin Luther
which together
condemns church
form largest state
in his 95 Theses,
in Europe
sparking
Reformation.
Protestantism
sweeps across
much of northern 1715 Death of Louis XIV.
1347–51 Black Europe
Death kills The “Sun King” made
perhaps a France the most powerful
third of the 1683 Defeat
state in Europe and
1492 Spanish expel
population of Turks at presided over the great
Moors from Granada;
of Europe siege of age of French Classical
Columbus’s first voyage
Vienna allows culture. However, his
to America 1520s Charles V,
expansion of expansionist policies
Holy Roman were largely thwarted
Austrian
1458–90 Emperor, defeats by the British, Austrians,
Habsburg
Hungary at its François I of and Dutch
1337–1453 empire
height in reign France in war for
Hundred of Matthias control of Italy
Years’ War Corvinus
between
England and 1453 1740–86 Rise
France Collapse of of Prussia
Byzantine under Frederick
1609 Dutch gain
Empire II “the Great”
effective 1622 Battle
increases independence of Mohács;
Turkish from Spain Kingdom of
threat to Hungary
eastern falls to Turks
Europe
1483–1520 Life of
Raphael, painter of the 1704 Start of building of
Raphael Rooms in the Blenheim Palace, grandest
Vatican (see p380) of the stately homes of
18th-century Britain
(see pp82–3)
1598–1680 Life of Gian
Lorenzo Bernini, leading
architect and sculptor
of the Roman Baroque
1606–69 Life of
Rembrandt, greatest
1452–1519 Life of Leonardo of the 17th-century
da Vinci, multi-talented Dutch masters
Renaissance genius. There are
two versions of his Virgin of
the Rocks: one in the Louvre, 1661 Enlargement of French
Paris (see pp158–60), and royal palace at Versailles
one in the British Museum, (see pp168–9) begins
London (see pp60–61)
1675–1710 Building of
1475–1564 Life of painter, sculptor, Christopher Wren’s St. Paul’s
and architect Michelangelo Cathedral in London (see p66)
38 E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
1989 Collapse of
Communism in
Eastern Europe.
Poland, Hungary,
Czechoslovakia, and
other countries oust
Communist rulers.
Reopening of Berlin Wall
1914 Outbreak of World War I. Millions leads to reunification
die as trench warfare along Western of Germany in 1990
Front reaches stalemate
1939 Outbreak of 1944 Normandy Landings. Allied
World War II. forces create second front, which
Germany overruns leads to eventual defeat of 1995 Membership of European
Poland, then, in Germany in 1945 Union reaches 15, with entry of
1940, France Sweden, Finland, and Austria
1949 Berlin Air Lift stops Russian
blockade of West Berlin
1918 Defeat of 2002 Introduction of common
Germany, following 1956 Hungarian uprising against
currency, the euro, in 12 countries
American entry into Communist rule crushed by of the European Union
war in 1917 Russian tanks
2004 Ten more countries join
1936–9 Spanish 1957 Treaty of Rome: European the European Union
Civil War Economic Community marks
beginning of European Union
1933 Hitler comes 2007 Bulgaria and Romania
to power in 1968 Student
join the European Union
Germany protests in France
and many other
parts of Europe
1919 Treaty of 2010 Five more
Versailles (1919) countries wait to
creates new states, 1973 join the EU
including Poland, Carnation
Revolution 2013 Croatia joins the
Czechoslovakia,
in Portugal European Union
Hungary, and
Finland
The European Union
1925 1950 1975 2000 2025
eau Art Deco and Modernism
Fort William
Glasgow
IRELAND
(see pp110–39)
Galway
Dublin
Caernarfon
Limerick
Waterford
Dublin (see pp114–23), Killarney
Ireland’s capital, has a lively Cork
atmosphere. Many of its
finest public buildings, such Swansea
as the Custom House, date
from the 18th century.
Edinburgh (see
pp90–94) is the
administrative and
cultural capital of
Scotland. Its castle,
which dates back
to the 12th century,
gives spectacular
views of the
entire city.
Locator Map
Edinburgh
Carlisle Newcastle-
upon-Tyne
York
Leeds
Birmingham
Cambridge
Oxford
Cardiff
Bristol
London
Bath
Bath (see pp78–9) is
Southampton Brighton named after the Roman
baths that stand at the
Exeter heart of the old town,
next to the splendid
0 km 75 medieval abbey. The city
is full of elegant Georgian
0 miles 75
terraces, built in local
honey-colored limestone.
B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D 45
GREAT BRITAIN
Separated from the rest of Europe by the English Channel, Britain has been
assiduous in preserving its traditions. However, the island can offer the visitor
much more than stately castles and pretty villages. A diversity of landscape,
culture, literature, art, and architecture, as well as a unique heritage, results
in a nation balancing the needs of the present with those of the past.
Britain’s character has been shaped by The long, broad beaches of East
its geographical position as an island. Anglia contrast with the rocky inlets
Never successfully invaded again after along much of the west coast.
1066, the country has developed its Despite the spread of towns and
own distinctive traditions, and although cities over the last two centuries, rural
today a member of the European Union, Britain still flourishes. The countryside
Britain continues to delight in its is dotted with farms and charming
nonconformity. Britain’s heritage can villages with picturesque cottages and
be seen in its ancient castles, cathedrals, lovingly tended gardens. The most
and stately homes, with their gardens prosperous and densely populated
and parklands. It is also evident in the part of the nation is the southeast,
many age-old customs played out across close to London, where modern office
the nation throughout the year. buildings bear witness to the growth
For a small island, Great Britain of service and high-tech industries.
encompasses a surprising variety in its
regions, whose inhabitants maintain History
distinct identities. Scotland and Wales Britain began to assume a cohesive
are separate countries from England, character as early as the 7th century AD,
with their own legislative assemblies. as Anglo-Saxon tribes migrating from
They also have their own surviving the continent absorbed existing Celtic
Gaelic languages and unique traditions. and Roman influences and finally
The landscape is varied, too, from the achieved supremacy in England.
mountains of Wales, Scotland, and the However, they suffered repeated Viking
north, through the flat expanses of the incursions and were overcome by the
Midlands and eastern England, to the Normans at the Battle of Hastings in 1066,
soft, rolling hills of the south and west. when William the Conqueror founded the
royal lineage which still rules the country English sailors ranged far across the
today. The disparate cultures of the world. The total defeat of the Spanish
Normans and Anglo-Saxons combined Armada in 1588 confirmed Britain’s
to form the English nation, a process position as a major maritime power.
nurtured by Britain’s position as an island. The Stuart period saw the English and
Scotland’s four divided kingdoms had Scottish crowns unite, but internal
also unified under one monarch struggles eventually led to the
by this time, with the crowning Civil War in 1642. By the time of
of Duncan I in 1034. the Act of Union with Scotland
The next 400 years saw English in 1707, however, the whole
kings extend their domain at island was united and the
home as well as abroad. Wales foundations for representative
was conquered in 1282, and by government had been laid. The
1296 control was also gained over combination of internal security
Scotland. The Scots rose up and maritime strength allowed
Queen Elizabeth I (reigned
again, however, winning back 1558–1603)
Britain to seek wealth overseas.
their independence under By the end of the Napoleonic
Robert the Bruce in 1314. The Wars in 1815, Britain was the
Tudor monarchs consolidated England’s world’s leading trading nation. The
strength and laid the foundations for opportunities offered by industrialization
Britain’s future commercial success. Henry were seized, and by the reign of Queen
VIII recognized the importance of sea Victoria (1837–1901), a colossal empire
power and, under his daughter, Elizabeth I, had been established across the globe.
Challenged by Europe and the rise of
KEY DATES IN BRITISH HISTORY the US, and drained by its role in two
world wars, Britain’s influence waned
AD 43–410 Roman occupation of Britain
after 1945. By the 1970s, almost all
440–50 Start of Angle, Saxon, and Jute invasions
its former colonies had become
1034 Duncan I becomes first king of all Scotland
independent Commonwealth nations.
1066 William the Conqueror defeats King Harold and
becomes the first Norman king of England
1256 First Parliament to include ordinary citizens
Society and Politics
1533–4 Henry VIII forms Church of England British cities are melting-pots for people
1535 Act of Union with Wales not just from different parts of the country,
1558–1603 Reign of Elizabeth I but also from overseas. Irish immigration
1603 Union of English and Scottish crowns; James VI has long ensured a flow of labor into the
of Scotland becomes James I of England country, and since the 1950s, hundreds of
1642 Civil War breaks out thousands have come from countries in
1649 Charles I executed. Commonwealth declared Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean, many of
by Parliament
1707 Act of Union with Scotland
1721 Robert Walpole becomes Britain’s first
Prime Minister
1837–1901 Reign of Queen Victoria. Industrial
Revolution leads to growth of British Empire
1924 First Labour government
1948 National Health Service introduced
1973 Britain joins European Community
1999 Formation of Scottish Parliament and
Welsh Assembly
2005 Terrorist attacks on public transport in London
2014 Referendum for Scottish Independence held The colorful costumes of Notting Hill Carnival, an annual
multicultural celebration held in London
G R E AT B R I TA I N 47
The Eden Project, an entertaining educational center devoted to mankind’s relationship with plants, Cornwall
which were former colonies are now Culture and the Arts
members of the Commonwealth. Nearly Britain has a famous theatrical tradition
five percent of Britain’s 62 million inhabi stretching back to the 16th century and
tants are from nonwhite ethnic groups – William Shakespeare. His plays have been
and about half of these were born in performed on stage almost continuously
Britain. The result is a multicultural society since they were written, and the works of
that boasts a wide range of music, art, 17th and 18thcentury writers are also
food, and religions. frequently revived. Modern British
Britain’s class structure is based on a playwrights, such as Tom Stoppard,
subtle mixture of heredity and wealth. draw on this long tradition with their
Even though many of the great inherited vivid language and use of comedy
fortunes no longer exist, some old landed to illustrate serious themes.
families still live on their estates, and many In the visual arts, Britain has a strong
now open them to the public. The mon tradition in portraiture, landscape, and
archy’s position highlights the dilemma watercolor. In modern times, artists David
of a people seeking to preserve its most Hockney and Francis Bacon and sculptors
potent symbol of national Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth have
unity in an age when enjoyed worldwide recognition.
people are suspicious Britain has also become
of inherited privilege. famous for its innovative
Without real political fashion designers, such as
power, although still head Vivienne Westwood and the
of the Church of England, late Alexander McQueen.
the Queen and her family The national film industry
are subject to increasing regularly produces
public scrutiny. international hits, such as
Democracy has deep the Harry Potter saga and
foundations in Britain. With The King’s Speech. British
the exception of the 17th A cricketing pub sign showing the television is renowned for
century Civil War, power 18th-century version of the game the high quality of its news,
has passed gradually from current affairs, and nature
the Crown to the people’s elected repre programs, as well as for its drama.
sentatives. During the 20th and 21st The British are great sports fans. Soccer,
centuries, the Labour (left wing) and rugby, cricket, and lawn tennis are popular.
Conservative (right wing) parties have An instantly recognizable English image is
favored a mix of public and private owner that of the cricket match on a village green.
ship for industry and ample funding for the The British also make use of their national
state health and welfare systems. parks as enthusiastic walkers and hikers.
48 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
Orkney Isles
H
include the university cities of Cambridge Ullapool
r
te
Tarbert
and Oxford, the historic centers of York and A8
Ou
35
Lochmaddy
Bath, and Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. Uig 0
North
A89
A96
In the sparsely populated regions of Northern Uist Inverness A9 ey
Sp
England, Wales, and Scotland, the land itself South Isle of
2
A8
A8
Uist 7 Aviemore
becomes the center of attention – the Lake Skye
Cairngorms
District, Snowdonia, and the Isle of Skye are Barra es
A93
id
all areas of outstanding natural beauty. A8
6 A9
br
Fort William
He
S C O T L A N D
r
ne
In
A85
Dundee
Mull
Sights at a Glance Perth
M90
Stirling
2 Canterbury i Chester
A82
M
9
3 Brighton o Liverpool Jura
A83
M8
4 Windsor Castle pp74–5 p Manchester Glasgow Edinburgh
Islay
77
5 Winchester a York pp86–7
7
A7
M7
Arran
6 Salisbury s Lake District
4
A7
7 Stonehenge d Durham 6
A7
8 Devon and Cornwall f Edinburgh pp90–94
7
A7
9 Bath pp78–9 g Glasgow Dumfries
5
0 Bristol h Stirling A7 Carlisle
Stranraer
q Cardiff j St. Andrews Belfast, A59
5
Larne
w Snowdonia k Aberdeen
e Caernarfon l Cairngorms Lake District
r Oxford z Inverness
Isle of Man
t Blenheim Palace pp82–3 x Isle of Skye Douglas
y Stratford-upon-Avon Heysham
IRISH Blackpool
Belfast,
Dublin SEA
Liverpool
Anglesey
Dublin Holyhead
A55
Caernarfon
Snowdonia A5
83
A4
Cardigan
Bay
Aberystwyth
Brighton’s Palace Pier, viewed from the promenade Rosslare Fishguard A48
7 WALES
0
A4
A47
M4
0
Pembroke
Swansea Cardiff
Key
l
anne
Highway l Ch
sto
Bri
M5
Truro
A3
Penzance
Isles of Scilly
Santander Roscoff
Distance chart
London Distance by road in kilometers
Distance by road in miles
179
Birmingham
111
241 164
Cardiff
150 102
Orkney Isles,
Shetland Isles 599 466 600
290 373
Edinburgh
372
A98
626 470 602 72
389 292 374 45
Glasgow
A9
St. Andrews
ed
Tw e
A1
Amsterdam
A6
96
Tynemouth
A69 Newcastle-
Sunderland NORTH
upon-Tyne Durham
Tyn
SEA
e
Middlesbrough
A1(M
A66
M6
Kendal
A19
Swale
Scarborough
A6 A64
5
Leeds &
A1
Bradford
York
M6
Bradford 62
The haunting landscape of the Isle of Skye
Leeds M Kingston upon Hull
Preston M62
Huddersfield
Grimsby
Manchester
A16
Sheffield
A6 Groningen
Lincoln
M1
Chester
A1
Rotterdam,
Stoke-on-Trent Zeebrugge
Derby Nottingham
A49
M54
E MN G L A N D A47
Norwich
6 Leicester Peterborough Esbjerg N ETH ERLA N D S
Birmingham
A11
Seve
A1
Amsterdam
rn
2
A49
A4
upon-Avon
M
Ipswich
1
Blenheim
M11
Harwich Arnhem
Luton
M4
Gloucester M2 Holland
Oxford 5 Eindhoven
Chelmsford
Swindon M4 Thames
Bristol Windsor LONDON
Castle M2 Ramsgate Zeebrugge
M3 Heathrow
A1
Gatwick
Winchester Dunkerque
Folkestone
A303 Southampton
A10 Brussels
A27
Portsmouth
Calais B E LGIUM
Newhaven Liège
Bournemouth Brighton Boulogne
Isle of Wight Lille
A2
Weymouth
A2
5
6
l
C hanne FRANCE
h
Englis N1 0 kilometers 75
Amiens 0 miles 75
Caen, Dieppe
St. Malo, Le Havre
Channel Is. Rouen Paris
Cherbourg
50 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
1 London
The largest city in Europe, London is home to more than seven
million people. Founded by the Romans in the first century AD
as an administrative center and trading port, the capital is the
principal residence of British monarchs, as well as the center of
government and business, and is rich in historic buildings. In
addition to its many museums and galleries, London is an
exciting city, with a vast array of entertainments. In 2012,
London hosted the Olympic Games. Developments completed
for the event, such as the Aquatics Centre, designed by the
late Zaha Hadid, have added to the city’s attractions. Millennium Foot Bridge, leading to Tate
Modern on Bankside
Euston
REGENT'S Square
RD
Great N
PARK ST O
GO
Portland
Baker EU
TO
W
Street
ER
Street
TT
RD
BONE
EN
ST
Warren
CL
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RYL
RE
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HA
Street
MA
G LO
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EL
Regent's Park
M
POR
AN
UC E
AT
CO
D
HAR
TL A
ST
UR
BAK
Goodge
STE
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Street
R
ER
RO
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L
ST
MARYLEBONE
AD
ER
STR
ND
IM
RT
STR
EET MO Tottenham
ROA
STR
Court Road
EET
EET
STR
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D
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MO
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W IG
STRE SOHO
WA
SQUARE
Oxford
RD
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RE
Circus
OXFO
OU
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W
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Marble
NT
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Thames at Richmond
ST
Lancaster
EE
Arch EET
ND
STR
T
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Gate S
UI
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ST
ST
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ND
O
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AF
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ROA
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PICCADILLY
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Queensway B AY S W
RK
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BO
UN
THE R I N
MO
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BE
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Piccadilly
ST
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Circus
A
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KENSINGTON
ST
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Kensington
PI
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Palace D Green L
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PA
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Knightsbridge
E XH I B I T I
GARDENS St James's
INGHA
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R
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South
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EST
VA
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Sights at a Glance 0 British Museum pp60–61 p Shakespeare’s Globe
1 Westminster Abbey pp54–5 q Madame Tussauds a The Shard
2 Houses of Parliament w Regent’s Park s Tower of London pp68–9
3 Coca-Cola London Eye e Hyde Park d Tower Bridge
4 Buckingham Palace r Science Museum
Greater London (see inset map)
5 Tate Britain t Natural History Museum
6 National Gallery y Victoria and Albert Museum f Greenwich
7 Trafalgar Square u St. Paul’s Cathedral g Notting Hill and Portobello Road
8 Piccadilly i Museum of London h Richmond and Kew
9 Covent Garden o Tate Modern j Hampton Court
LONDON 51
Cambridge
Greater London A1
Getting Around Watford
Walthamstow
London’s subway system – Highgate
A11
the “tube” or “underground” – Hampstead
Islington Hackney
runs from about 5:30am
06
A4
Camden
A5
until just after midnight A40
Willesden City
Airport
(some lines now operate a 24 Oxford A13
hour service on Fridays and Thames
A2
21
London with a car. The Wimbledon
2
Th Streatham
am
well-known black cabs are
es
A23
Kingston-upon-
A3
Thames
W
0 miles 3
BU
RN
Gatwick
Guildford Brighton Airport
PL
AC
E
Key
SO
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SS
.
SQ Area of main map
EL
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BL
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HOLBORN
W
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STREET
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Leicester
A ND Street ST T O W E R HI L
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London
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Theatre RE E T
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Hayward O R D U TH London
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Vauxhall
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Pedestrian street
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. Westminster Abbey
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Statue of Richard the S
T
IN
Dean’s Yard R
Lionheart (1860) E E
AB
Trafalgar
2 Houses of
Square
Parliament
SW1. Tel 020-7219 3000.
1 Westminster. @ 3, 11, 12, 24,
53, 88, 148, 159, 211, 453. 8 tickets
for guided tours (Sat only) are avail-
able online, by calling 020 219 4114,
or from the ticket office at the front of
L
ST
E
RI Edwin Lutyens.
CH elegant Palladian building in elected Members of Parliament
M 1622. It is famous for this ceiling
ON (MPs), and the upper house,
D painted by Rubens for Charles I.
TE the House of Lords. The latter,
RR
AC formerly filled with hereditary
E peers, bishops, and life peers,
ET
by fire in 1834.
N
BA
1 Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey has been the burial place of Britain’s
monarchs since the 11th century and the setting for many
coronations and royal weddings, including the marriage of the
Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. It has an exceptionally
diverse array of architectural styles, ranging from the austere
French Gothic of the nave to the astonishing complexity of . Nave
Built under the direction
Henry VII’s chapel. Half national church, half national museum,
of master mason Henry
the abbey is crammed with an extraordinary collection of tombs Yevele, the nave reaches to
and monuments honoring some of Britain’s greatest public a height of 31 m (102 ft).
figures, from politicians to poets.
North/Main
Entrance
KEY
Coronation
The coronation ceremony is more
than 1,000 years old and since 1066,
with the crowning of William the
Conqueror on Christmas Day,
Westminster Abbey has been its
sumptuous setting. The coronation Flying Buttresses
of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 was the The massive flying buttresses help
first to be televised. transfer the great weight of the
31 m (102 ft) high nave.
Transport
1 St. James’s Park, Westminster.
@ 3, 11, 12, 24, 53, 88, 148, 159,
211, 453. 4 Westminster Pier.
. Chapter House
This beautiful octagonal room,
remarkable for its 13th-century
tiled floor, is lit by six huge
stained-glass windows
showing scenes from the
abbey’s history.
Key
Built before 1400
Built in 1503–19
Poets’ Corner
Among the great poets Completed by 1745
honored here are Completed after 1850
Shakespeare (above),
Chaucer, and T.S. Eliot.
56 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
6 National Gallery
Trafalgar Sq WC2. Tel 020-7747 2885.
1 Charing Cross, Leicester Sq,
Piccadilly Circus. @ 3, 6, 9, 11 & many
others. Open 10am–6pm daily (to
9pm Fri). Closed Jan 1, Dec 24–26.
7 via Sainsbury Wing entrance.
8 - ∑ nationalgallery.org.uk
E Royal Academy
Burlington House, Piccadilly W1.
Tel 020-7300 8000. Open daily.
Closed Good Fri, Dec 24–26. & for
exhibitions. 8 reserve in advance.
7 ∑ royalacademy.org.uk
P Spencer House
27 St. James’s Pl SW1. Tel 020-7514
1958. Open Sun. Closed Jan & Aug.
& 8 compulsory. 7
∑ spencerhouse.co.uk Statue of a resting ballerina facing the Royal Opera House
60 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Oriental Art
Fine porcelain and ancient Practical Information
Shang bronzes (c.1500–1050 BC) Great Russell St WC1.
are highlights of the museum’s Tel 020-7323 8299.
Chinese collection. Particularly Open 10am–5:30pm daily
impressive are the ceremonial (to 8:30pm Fri). Closed Jan 1,
ancient Chinese bronze vessels, Dec 24–26. 8 7 0 - =
∑ thebritishmuseum.org
with their enigmatic animal-
head shapes. The fine Chinese Transport
ceramics range from delicate tea @ 7, 8, 10, 14, 19, 24, 25, 29, 30,
bowls to a model pond which 38, 55, 68, 134, 188.
is almost a thousand years old. 1 Tottenham Court Road,
The Portland Vase, depicting the betrothal Adjacent to these is one of the Holborn, Russell Square.
of Peleus and Thetis finest collections of Asian
religious sculpture outside India.
These include an assortment of Buddhist temple at Amarati,
Greece and Rome sculpted reliefs which once and which recount stories
The Greek and Roman covered the walls of the from the life of the Buddha. A
collections include the Korean section contains some
museum’s most famous gigantic works of Buddhist art.
treasure, the Elgin Marbles. Islamic art, including a stunning
These 5th-century BC reliefs jade terrapin found in a water
from the Parthenon once tank, can be found in Room 34.
comprised a marble frieze Rooms 90–94 house temporary
which decorated Athena’s exhibitions for prints and
temple at the Acropolis in drawings from Asia.
Athens. Much of it was ruined in
battle in 1687, and half of what
survived was removed between Africa
1801 and 1804 by the British An interesting collection of
diplomat Lord Elgin, and sold African sculptures, textiles,
to the British nation. Other and graphic art can be found
highlights include the Nereid in Room 25, located in the
Monument, and sculptures and basement. Famous bronzes
friezes from the Mausoleum at from the Kingdom of Benin
Halicarnassus. The beautiful stand alongside modern
1st-century BC cameo-glass African prints, paintings,
Portland Vase is located in the The Young Prince with his Parents (c.1600), and drawings, plus an array
Roman Empire section. an Indian miniature of colorful fabrics.
q Madame
Tussauds
Marylebone Rd NW1. Tel 0871-894
3000. 1 Baker St. Open from 9:30am
daily; closing times vary. Closed Dec
24 (afternoon) & Dec 25. & = -
7 ∑ madametussauds.co.uk
IM
PE
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CO
LL
EG
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RO
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0 meters 100
AD
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Key
TI
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RO
AD
South Kensington
station (two entrances
on Exhibition Road)
. Science Museum
Fascinating exhibits, such as . Victoria and Albert Museum
this 18th-century steam engine, The museum has a fine collection
celebrate the history of science of decorative arts from around the
and technology (see p64). world (see p65).
64 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
y Victoria and
Albert Museum
Cromwell Rd SW7. 1 South
Kensington. @ 14, 74, C1. Tel 020-
7942 2000. Open 10am–5:45pm daily
(to 10pm Fri). Closed Dec 24–26. &
for special exhibitions. 8 7
∑ vam.ac.uk
s Tower of London
See pp68–9.
d Tower Bridge
SE1. Tel 020-7403 3761. 1 Tower
Sculpture from the inaugural exhibition in the vast Turbine Hall, Tate Modern Hill, London Bridge. The Tower Bridge
Exhibition: Open 10am–5:30pm daily.
Originally designed by Sir Giles A detailed reproduction of an Closed Dec 24–26. & 7 e
Gilbert Scott, the architect of Elizabethan theater has been ∑ towerbridge.org.uk
London’s red telephone kiosks, built on the riverside close to
the huge Bankside building was the site of the original Globe, This flamboyant piece of
acquired by the Tate Gallery in Shakespeare’s “wooden O,” Victorian engineering,
2000; it had been disused since where many of his plays were completed in 1894, soon
1981. Swiss architects were first performed. Open to the became a symbol of London.
responsible for the building’s elements, the theater operates Its two Gothic towers contain
redesign, which allows the only in the summer. Seeing a the mechanism for raising the
works of art to be displayed in play here can be a lively roadway to permit large ships
a dynamic style. experience, with “groundlings” to pass through. The towers are
Unusually, the permanent (those with cheap standing- made of a supporting steel
collection is exhibited in four room tickets) in front of the framework clad in stone. When
themed groups: poetry and stage encouraged to cheer or raised, the roadway creates a
dream, idea and object, states jeer. An informative tour of the space 40 m (135 ft) high and
of flux and material gestures. theater is offered by “resting” 60 m (200 ft) wide. In its heyday,
The paintings and sculptures Globe actors, and visitors can it was raised and lowered five
embrace Surrealism, Abstract enjoy being center stage times a day.
Expressionism, Pop Art, and among them. Beneath the The bridge now houses
Minimal and Conceptual Art. theater is the Underglobe, The Tower Bridge Exhibition,
Major works include Picasso’s where every aspect of with displays which bring its
The Three Dancers, Dalí’s The Shakespeare’s work is vividly history to life. There are fine
Metamorphosis of Narcissus, brought to life through the river views from the walkways
and Andy Warhol’s Marilyn use of modern technology between the towers, and the
Diptych. There are also and traditional crafts. steam-engine room, which was
temporary exhibitions of works in use until 1976, can be visited.
by lesser-known artists, and by
more controversial newcomers. a The Shard
At the top of the building are
London Bridge St, SE1. Tel 0844-499
two floors enclosed in glass.
7111 (bookings). 1 London Bridge.
One is a restaurant with superb Open 9am–10pm daily. Closed Dec
views. Natural light filters down 25. & 7 ∑ theviewfromthe
to the upper galleries. shard.com
s Tower of London
Soon after he became king in 1066, William the
Conqueror built a fortress here to guard the entrance
to London from the Thames Estuary. In 1097, the White
Tower, which today occupies the center of the complex,
was completed in stone; other fine buildings have been
added over the centuries. The Tower has served as a Beauchamp Tower
royal residence, armory, treasury, and most famously as Many high-ranking prisoners were held
a prison for enemies of the Crown. Some were tortured, here, often with their own servants.
and among those who met their death here were the The tower was built by Edward I
around 1281.
“Princes in the Tower,” the sons and heirs of Edward IV.
Today, the Tower is a popular attraction, housing the
Crown Jewels and other fine exhibits. Thirty seven
Yeoman Warders, known as “Beefeaters,” guard the
complex and live here. Its most celebrated residents
are seven ravens. Legend claims that the kingdom
will fall if they desert the Tower.
Queen’s House
This Tudor building
is the sovereign’s
official residence
at the Tower.
KEY
Traitors’ Gate
The infamous entrance
was used for prisoners
brought from trial in
Westminster Hall.
Bloody Tower
Explored in a display here,
Edward IV’s two sons were
put in the Bloody Tower
by their uncle, Richard of
Gloucester, in 1483. The
princes, depicted here by
John Millais (1829–96),
disappeared mysteriously
and their uncle became King
Richard III later that year. In
1674, the skeletons of two
children were found nearby.
70 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
h Richmond
and Kew
SW15. 1 Kew Gardens, Richmond.
4 to Kew Bridge, Richmond.
2 Canterbury
Kent. * 50,000. £ @ n The
Beaney House of Art & Knowledge,
18 High Street (01227-378 100).
( Wed & Fri.
5 Winchester
Hampshire. * 36,000. £ @
n Guildhall, High Street (01962-840
500). ( Wed–Sat.
4 Windsor Castle
The oldest continuously inhabited royal residence in Britain,
the castle, originally made of wood, was founded by William
the Conqueror in the late 11th century to guard the western
approaches to London. He chose the site because it was on
high ground and just a day’s journey from the Tower of
London. Successive monarchs have made alterations that
render it a remarkable monument to royalty’s changing
tastes. King George V’s affection for it was shown when he
chose Windsor for his family surname in 1917. The castle is
an official residence of the present Queen, who often stays Albert Memorial Chapel
here at weekends. First built in the 1240s, it was
rebuilt in 1485 and finally
converted into a memorial
King Henry for Prince Albert in 1863.
VIII Gate
Castle Hill
and main
entrance
Albert Memorial
Chapel (1485) The Round
Tower (1080)
Waterloo Chamber
(1820s)
St. George’s Hall
(1357–68)
Middle
Lower Ward Ward
Drawing Gallery
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This chalk
etching of Christ
Practical Information
by Michelangelo
Castle Hill. Tel 020-7766 7300.
is part of the
Open 9:45am–5:15pm (Nov–Feb:
Resurrection Series.
4:15pm) daily (last adm: 75 mins
It belongs to the
before closing). Closed see web-
Royal Collection, a
site. & 7 5 St. George’s Chapel:
small selection of
5:15pm Mon–Sat; Sun (for worship-
which is shown here
pers). ∑ royalcollection.org.uk
at any one time.
Waterloo Chamber
Created as part of
Charles Long’s brief for
remodeling the castle
in 1823, the Waterloo
Chamber was previously
a mere space between
curtain walls.
KEY
Wales
Wales is a country of outstanding natural beauty, with varied
landscapes. Visitors come to climb dramatic mountain peaks,
walk in the forests, fish in the broad rivers, and enjoy the miles
of untainted coastline. The country’s many seaside towns have
long been popular with British vacationers. As well as outdoor
pursuits, there is the vibrancy of Welsh culture, with its strong
Celtic roots, to be experienced. The Welsh have their own
language, which has survived despite the
pervasive use of the English tongue.
E NN
T
B R O C K
S T R E E T
S
U
HE CIRC
T
GE
OR
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No. 17 is where GE
RE
the 18th-century
painter Thomas
E T
Gainsborough lived.
RE
Milsom Street and UA
BA
SQ
. Royal Crescent New Bond Street
RT
Hailed as the most majestic street in Britain, this contain some of Bath’s
ON
Jane Austen
(1775–1817), the writer,
lived in various houses
during the five years she
spent in Bath. A center
Key 0 meters 100 devoted to the author
Suggested route 0 yards 100 is located on Gay Street.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Avon. * 85,000. k Bristol
Airport, 32 km (20 miles) W. n
The Building of Bath Abbey Chambers, Abbey Church
Collection shows Yard (01225-322 442). ( daily.
how, in the 18th _ International Music Festival
century, the city was (May). Roman Baths Museum:
transformed from a Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26.
medieval wool town & 7 limited. 0 =
Pulteney Bridge
into one of Europe’s This charming bridge (1769–74), Transport
most elegant spas. designed by Robert Adam, is lined with £ Dorchester St. @ Manvers St.
shops and links the center with the
magnificent Great Pulteney Street.
L A
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D
O
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N
R O
PA R A
A
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. Roman Baths
Built in the 1st century, this
ET . Bath Abbey
RE bathing complex is one of
ST Britain’s greatest memorials The splendid abbey stands at the
E
heart of the old city in the Abbey
BR
RE
OM
E T
ST
Parade
Gardens
RE
Courting
E T
couples came
Great to this pretty
Pulteney riverside park
Street for secret
NE
E E T
W S T R liaisons in the
B O N D 18th century.
G
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S
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H I G
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N
H PA N
UG R
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Pump Room
N
These tearooms
E T
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OR
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E
A
CHE
V
E T
Train RE
ST Sally Lunn’s House (1482) is one
O RK
station Y of Bath’s oldest houses.
80 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
E Ashmolean Museum
Beaumont St. Tel 01865-278 002.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & bank
holiday Mon. Closed Dec 24–26.
8 Tue, Fri, Sat. 7
t Blenheim Palace
The Great Quadrangle of All Souls College, Oxford University See pp82–3.
u Cambridge
Cambridgeshire. * 120,000. £ @
n Peas Hill (0871-226 8006). ( daily.
_ Folk Festival (July).
t Blenheim Palace
After John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, defeated
the French at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704, Queen Anne
gave him the manor of Woodstock and had this palatial house
built for him in gratitude. Designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor
and Sir John Vanbrugh, it is one of the country’s most
outstanding examples of English Baroque. The magnificent
palace grounds, at the center of which is a huge lake, owe
their present appearance to the great 18th-century landscape
designer, Lancelot (Capability) Brown. Blenheim Palace was
the birthplace, in 1874, of the wartime British prime minister,
Winston Churchill. Today, the palace is the home of the 11th . Long Library
Duke and Duchess of Marlborough. This 55 m (183 ft) long room
was designed by Vanbrugh as
a picture gallery. The stucco
work on the ceiling is by Isaac
Mansfield (1725).
KEY
Transport
£ Oxford, then bus.
Other Notable
Stately Homes
Burghley House:
Lincolnshire. Tel 01780-752 451.
Open mid-Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm
daily. & 0 7 Built by Queen
Elizabeth I’s adviser, William Cecil,
1st Lord Burghley (1520–98).
Entrance Castle Howard:
Yorkshire. Tel 01653-648 333.
Open mid-Mar–Oct, end
Nov–mid-Dec: daily. & 0 8
7 Baroque mansion (1699–
1712) by John Vanbrugh and
Nicholas Hawksmoor.
Chatsworth House:
Derbyshire. Tel 01246-582 204.
Open 11am–5:30pm daily.
& = 0 7 limited.
Splendid Baroque palace built
in 1687–1707 by the 4th Earl
of Devonshire.
Hardwick Hall:
Derbyshire. Tel 01246-850 430.
. Saloon Open Apr–Oct: Wed–Sun. &
The murals and painted = 0 7 limited. Fine Tudor
ceiling of the state dining mansion begun in 1591 by
room are by French artist Bess of Hardwick, Countess
Louis Laguerre (1663–1721). of Shrewsbury.
The room is used once a
year on Christmas Day. Transport
Burghley House: £ Stamford
Castle Howard: £ York, then bus
Chatsworth House and Hardwick
Hall: £ Chesterfield.
Eighteenth-century Gardens
Styles of gardening in Britain expanded alongside architecture and other
fashions. The 18th century brought a taste for large-scale “natural” landscapes,
characterized by woods, lakes, and a seeming lack of boundaries. The pioneer
of this new style was the famous landscape designer Lancelot (Capability)
Brown (1715–83). His nickname came from his habit of telling clients that
their land had “great capabilities.” In 1764, he re-landscaped the grounds of
Blenheim Palace, creating the magnificent, huge lake. Today, his reputation
Capability Brown is controversial, because in creating his idyllic landscapes he swept away
(1715–83) many of the beautiful formal gardens previously in vogue.
E Grosvenor Museum
Grosvenor St. Tel 01244-972 197.
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec 24–26.
7 limited. 8 Modern city blocks on the banks of the Manchester Ship Canal
For hotels and restaurants see pp104–6 and pp107–9
ENGLAND 85
d Durham
County Durham. £ @
n 0300026 26 26. ( Sat.
Lush, green fields below the Skiddaw fells in the Lake District
Durham was built on a rocky
engines and an exhibition on the 18thcentury Abbot Hall. peninsula in 995. The site was
the Liverpool and Manchester The nearest lake to Kendal is chosen as the last resting place
Railway. Another museum of Windermere, which is more for the remains of St. Cuthbert.
note is the Whitworth Art than 16 km (10 miles) The relics of the Venerable Bede
Gallery, with its splendid long. A yearround were brought here 27 years
collection of contem car ferry connects later, adding to the town’s
porary art, textiles, and the lake’s east and attraction to pilgrims.
prints. The Turner water west shores, and Durham’s cathedral, built
colors are a highlight. summer steamers between 1093 and 1274, is a
Housed in a 19th link the main towns striking Norman structure. The
century porticoed on the northsouth vast dimensions of the ancient
building, the City Art axis. Among these, columns, piers, and vaults, and
Galleries contain an one of the most popular the lozenge, chevron, and
excellent selection of is Bowness, where the dogtooth patterns carved into
British art, as well as Windermere Steam them, are its main innovative
early Italian, Flemish, The Lakeland poet boat Museum has a features. The exotic Galilee
and French paintings. William Wordsworth collection of superbly Chapel, begun in 1170, was
restored watercraft. inspired by the mosque at
E Whitworth Art Gallery Ambleside, another attractive Córdoba, Spain (see pp316–17).
University of Manchester, Oxford Rd. lakeside town, is a good base for The Norman castle, begun
Tel 0161275 7450. Open 10am–5pm walkers and climbers. Nearby is in 1072, served as an Episcopal
daily (to 9pm Thu). 7 - Hill Top, the 17thcentury Palace until 1832, when Bishop
∑ whitworth.manchester.ac.uk farmhouse where the author William van Mildert gave it away
Beatrix Potter wrote many of her to found Britain’s third university
famous children’s stories. here. In the castle grounds,
a York
The Lake District’s most Tunstal’s Chapel was built around
See pp86–7. famous son, the Romantic poet 1542 and has some particularly
William Wordsworth (1770– fine woodwork, including a
1850), lived for a while at unicorn misericord. The castle
s Lake District Grasmere, on the shores of the keep, sited on a mound, is now
Cumbria. £ Kendal; Windermere. lake of the same name, north of part of the university.
@ Kendal; Keswick; Windermere. Ambleside. His home, Dove
n Made in Cumbria, 48a Branthwaite Cottage, contains a museum + Durham Castle
Brow, Kendal (01539735 891); dedicated to his life. Tel 0191334 2932. Open for guided
Moot Hall, Market Sq, Keswick To the west of Windermere lie tours only. Term time: daily (pm);
(01768772 645). Coniston Water and picturesque university hols: most days (am & pm);
Duddon Valley, popular call ahead for special closures. 8
The Lake District boasts some of walking country.
the country’s most spectacular In the northern part
scenery, with high peaks, lonely of the Lake District,
fells, and beautiful lakes. The Keswick, with its lake,
area constitutes Britain’s largest Derwent Water, has
national park and offers a range been a busy vacation
of outdoor activities, from hill destination since
walking to boating. Victorian days. The
Kendal is the southern Keswick Museum
gateway to the Lake District. Of and Art Gallery holds
interest here is the Museum of original manuscripts of
Lakeland Life and Industry, Lakeland writers, such Moorish-style arches in the 12th-century Galilee
housed in the stable block of as Robert Southey Chapel, Durham Cathedral
86 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
GO
elegant Jacobean and Georgian buildings.
OD
. York Minster
RAM
YA R D
The 15th-century
choir screen is lined
GA
ER
with statues of the kings ST
IN
TE
of England, from William I M
to Henry VI. E
D E A N G AT
Thirsk
HIGH PETE R G AT E L O W P E T E R
CE
GA
ST L
TE
E PLA
ONE
B
COM
E
A
EGAT
D
R
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DUN
PL
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AK
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St. Mary’s Abbey
RE
MUSEUM STREET
DAVYGATE
ET
The Yorkshire PA R
EET
SE
BD
Railway Museum,
SE
and Leeds
OU
In Coffee Yard,
look out for the
Ye Old Starre carved figure of
Inne is one of a red devil, relic
the oldest pubs of a medieval
in York. print shop.
Guildhall
This two-headed
medieval roof boss is
on the 15th-century
St. Olave’s Church Guildhall, situated
The 11th-century church, next to the gatehouse beside the River Ouse
of St. Mary’s Abbey, was founded by the Earl of and restored after
Northumbria in memory of St. Olaf, King of bomb damage during
Norway. To the left is the Chapel of St. Mary World War II.
on the Walls.
E
ON Much of York’s wealth in
ST
ST
TH
TH the late Middle Ages came
E
E
SH
AM FO from the cloth trade. The
BL SS
ES GA Merchant Adventurers’ Hall,
TE the headquarters of a powerful
MENT
PP
CO
CAS
TLE in the world, where the rolling
G AT
E
stock on show includes Queen
CL
IF Victoria’s royal carriage.
FO
RD
ST E National Railway Museum
TOWE
0 meters 100
Key
0 yards 100
The square central tower of York Minster,
Suggested route rising above the city
For keys to symbols see back flap
88 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
k Aberdeen
* 220,000. k 13 km (8 miles) NW.
£ @ n 23 Union St (01224-269
180). ( Thu, Fri, Sat.
f Edinburgh
It was not until the reign of James IV (1488–1513) that
Edinburgh gained its status as Scotland’s capital.
Overcrowding made the Old Town a difficult place to live,
and led to the construction of a Georgian New Town in
the late 1700s. Today, Edinburgh is second only to London
as a financial center in the British Isles, and houses the
new Scottish Parliament building, situated next to the old
Palace of Holyroodhouse. Edinburgh hosts a celebrated
annual International Festival every August. One of the
world’s premier arts jamborees, it features drama, dance,
opera, music, and ballet. The more eclectic “Fringe” View of Princes Street from the top
developed in parallel with the official event, but has of Calton Hill
now exceeded it in terms of size. It is estimated that the EET
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Getting Around
Central Edinburgh is compact, so walking or cycling is
an excellent way to explore the city. Other options
include tram system and a comprehensive bus service.
Avoid exploring the center by car, because the streets
tend to be congested with traffic, and parking may be
difficult. Car use is actively discouraged.
EDINBURGH 91
Sights at a Glance
1 Edinburgh Castle
2 New Town
3 Royal Mile
4 National Gallery of Scotland
5 Greyfriars Kirk
6 National Museum of Scotland
7 Scottish National Portrait Gallery
8 Calton Hill
9 Palace of Holyroodhouse
BL
EN ROYAL TERRACE GARD ENS
St H
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TERRACE CAR
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Playhouse
EE
Theatre
GR
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St. Mary's
Cathedral CALTON REGENT
D HIL
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Shopping R R
City National ER
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Nelson
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AB B E
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The Church GATE
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Key
Sight / Place of interest
Railroad
8 Calton Hill
City center east, via Waterloo Pl.
The Highlands
The Scotland of your imagination – filled with clans and tartans,
whisky and porridge, bagpipes and heather – will come to life
in the Highlands. Gaelic-speaking Celts arrived from Ireland
before the 7th century, establishing small fishing and cattle-
raising communities. Nowadays the region has oil and tourist
industries. Inverness, the Highland capital, makes a good
starting point for exploring Loch Ness and the Cairngorms.
The Isle of Skye has some of Britain’s most dramatic scenery.
z Inverness
* 60,000. £ @ n Castle Wynd
(01463-252 401).
∑ visitscotland.com
The Climate of
LONDON EDINBURGH
Great Britain
The moderate British climate °C/ºF °C/ºF
rarely sees winter nights colder
than -15 °C (5 °F), even in the far 22/72 18/62
16/60
north, or summer days warmer 13/55 14/58 11/52 11/52 13/56
10/50
than 30 °C (86 °F) in the south. 7/44 7/45
4/39
7/44 16/61
3/38
Despite the country’s reputation, 0/32
annual rainfall is quite low – less 5 6 3.5 1.5 2.5 5.5 3 1.5
than 100 cm (40 in) – and heavy hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
rain is rare. The Atlantic coast, 39 45 50 44 38 70 58 47
warmed by the Gulf Stream, mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
gives the west a warmer, wetter month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
climate than the east.
G R E AT B R I TA I N 97
DIRECTORY
Tourist Embassies US Embassy DisabledGo
Information 24 Grosvenor Sq, London Unit 7, Arlington Court,
Australian High
VisitBritain Commission W1. Tel 020-7499 9000. Arlington Business Park,
Australia House, ∑ london.usembassy. Stevenage SG1 2FS.
∑ visitbritain.com
Strand, London WC2. gov
Tel 01438-842 710.
VisitEngland Tel 020-7379 4334.
∑ visitengland.com ∑ disabledgo.com
∑ uk.embassy.gov.au/ Emergencies
lhlh/home.html Numbers Mobility
Regional Tourist
Boards Canadian High Police, Ambulance, International
Commission Coastguard, and Fire North America
London MacDonald House,
services Tel 541-343 1284.
Opposite Platform 8, 1 Grosvenor Square,
Victoria Railway Station, Tel 999. ∑ miusa.org
London W1K.
London SW1 1JU.
Tel 020-7004 6000. Facilities for Tourism For All
∑ visitlondon.com
∑ canadainternational.
the Disabled 7a Pixel Mill,
Scotland gc.ca
44 Appleby Road,
Tel 0845-859 1006.
New Zealand High Disability Rights UK
∑ visitscotland.com Kendal, Cumbria
Commission 49–51 East Rd, London N1.
LA9 6ES.
Wales 80 Haymarket, London Tel 020-7250 8181.
∑ disabilityrightsuk. Tel 0845-124 9971.
Tel 0870-830 0306. SW1. Tel 020-7930 8422.
∑ visitwales.com ∑ nzembassy.com org ∑ tourismforall.org.uk
98 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
Cross serves the northeast and than rail travel. Journey times, Most companies will not rent to
Scotland, Liverpool Street serves however, are longer. Tickets can novice drivers, and set age limits
East Anglia, Waterloo and be purchased at major inter- (usually 21–70).
Paddington serve the West national airports, Victoria Coach
Country and Wales, and Victoria Station – the main terminal for
and Charing Cross serve the journeys into and out of London Ferry Services
South Coast. – and most large travel agents. About 20 car and passenger
First-class tickets for most The largest British coach services travel regularly across
journeys are available, and operator is National Express. the Channel and the North
roundtrip fares are less costly Another major operator is and Irish seas, the major ones
than two one-way tickets. There Scottish Citylink, with services including DFDS Seaways
are several types of fare for between London, the North, and P&O. Fares vary greatly
adults: Advance, purchased and Scotland. according to the season, time
ahead of travel and to be used of travel, and duration of stay.
on a specific train; Off-Peak, if Brittany Ferries run longer
you can travel at less busy times; Traveling by Road (often overnight) services
Anytime, which gives the most The most startling difference for between Plymouth, Poole, and
options, but is the most costly; many foreign motorists in Britain Portsmouth to the west coast
and Rovers and Rangers, which is that one drives on the left, of France, as well as one 20-hour
offers unlimited travel within a with corresponding adjustments service outside the winter
specified area, with a few at traffic circles and junctions. months between Plymouth
restrictions on when you travel. Distances are measured in miles. and Santander in Spain.
If you plan to do much Traffic density in towns and at
traveling by train around Britain, busy holiday times can cause
it is worth buying a rail pass. These long delays. Parking is a big Channel Tunnel
can be bought from BR agents issue in towns and cities, so it The Channel Tunnel offers a
abroad, such as CIE Tours Inter is worth taking advantage of nonstop rail link between Britain
national and VoyagesSNCF. park-and-ride schemes. and Europe. Eurostar services
Passes are available for families Renting a car in Britain can be (for foot passengers) run from
and young people. expensive. One of the most St. Pancras station in London to
competitive national companies Lille and Paris in France, and
is Autos Abroad, but small local Brussels in Belgium. Traveling
Longdistance Buses firms may undercut even these from London direct to Brussels
In Britain, long-distance express rates. International car rental or Paris takes 2–2½ hours.
buses and ones used for sight- companies such as Avis, Budget, The Eurotunnel service (also
seeing excursions are usually and Hertz also operate in Britain. known as the Shuttle) transports
referred to as coaches. Coach You need a valid driver’s license vehicles between Folkestone
services are generally cheaper and a passport when you rent. and Calais in about half an hour.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Thomas Cook Airlines Bus Companies Ferry Services
Tel 01733-224 330 (UK).
Air Canada National Express Brittany Ferries
Tel 0871-220 1111 (UK). Virgin Atlantic Tel 0871-781 8181. Tel 0330-159 7000.
Tel 1888-247 2262 (US Tel 0844-209 7777 (UK). ∑ nationalexpress.com ∑ brittanyferries.
and Canada). Tel 1800-862 8621 (US). Scottish Citylink co.uk
Air New Zealand Tel 0871-266 3333. DFDS Seaways
Tel 0800-028 4149 (UK). Rail Travel ∑ citylink.co.uk
Tel 0871-574 7235.
Tel 0800-737 000 (NZ). ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
CIE Tours Car Rental
American Airlines International P&O
Tel 0844-369 9899 (UK).
Autos Abroad
Tel 020-8638 0715 (UK). Tel 08716-642 121.
Tel 0808-284 0014.
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ poferries.com
National Rail ∑ autosabroad.com
British Airways Inquiries Avis
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Channel Tunnel
Tel 0845-748 49 50. Tel 0844-581 0147.
Tel 1800-452 1201 (US). ∑ avis.co.uk
Services
Virgin Trains
Delta Air Lines Budget Eurostar
Tel 020 7660 0767 (UK). Tel 0800-015 8123.
Tel 0808-284 4444. Tel 08432-186 186.
Tel 0800 241 4141 (US). Voyages–SNCF ∑ budget.co.uk ∑ eurostar.com
Qantas Tel 0844-848 5848. Hertz Eurotunnel
Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). ∑ uk.voyagessncf. Tel 0843-309 3099. Tel 0844-335 3535.
Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). com ∑ hertz.co.uk ∑ eurotunnel.com
100 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Gieves & Hawkes Food and Drink WH Smith
1 Savile Row, London W1. 124 Holborn,
Fortnum and Mason Tel 0207432 6403. Cadenheads
London EC1.
181 Piccadilly, London One of several branches. 172 Canongate,
Tel 0207242 0535.
W1. Tel 0207734 8040. Edinburgh EH8.
Hector Russell One of many branches.
Tel 0131556 5864.
Harrods 110 Buchanan St,
87–135 Brompton Rd, Glasgow G1. Charbonnel et Walker Gifts and
London SW1. Tel 0141221 0217. The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Souvenirs
Tel 0207730 1234. Bond Street, London W1.
Laura Ashley The Body Shop
Tel 0207491 0939.
Harvey Nichols 7–9 Harriet St, 374 Oxford St,
109–125 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Hotel Chocolat London W1.
London SW1. Tel 0871223 1422. 34 Coney St, York YO1. Tel 0207629 0483.
Tel 0207235 5000. One of many branches. Tel 01904635 304. One of many branches.
One of many branches.
Vivienne Westwood Montezuma’s Conran Shop
John Lewis 44 Conduit St, London W1. 15 Duke St, Brighton BN1. Michelin House, 81
69 St. James Centre, Tel 0207439 1109. Tel 01273324 979. Fulham Rd, London SW3.
Edinburgh EH1. Tel 0207589 7401.
Markets Oddbins
Tel 0844693 1740.
7 Borough High St,
One of many branches.
Borough Market London SE1 9SU.
Art and Antiques
Liberty 8 Southwark St, Tel 0207407 5957. Glasgow Antiques &
210–220 Regent St, London SE1. One of many branches. Collectables Market
London W1. Open Mon–Sat. 233 London Rd,
The Whisky Shop
Tel 0131556 9121. Glasgow G40.
Camden Lock Unit L2/O2, Buchanan
Marks & Spencer Chalk Farm Rd, Galleries, 220 Buchanan Tel 0141552 6989.
173 & 458 Oxford St, London NW1. Street, Glasgow G1. Mayfair Gallery
London W1. Open 10am–6pm daily. Tel 0141331 0022. 39 South Audley St,
Tel 0207935 7954. Covent Garden London W1.
Two of many branches. The Piazza, London WC2.
Books and Tel 0207491 3435.
Open 9am–5pm daily.
Magazines
Selfridges Photographers’
400 Oxford St, London Portobello Road Foyle’s Gallery
W1. Tel 0800123 400. Portobello Rd, 107 Charing Cross Rd, 16–18 Ramilies St,
London W10. London WC2. London W1F.
Clothing Stores Open Mon–Sat; antiques Tel 0207437 5660. Tel 0207087 9300.
Burberry 8am–5:30pm Sat. Waterstones The Scottish Gallery
21–23 Bond Street, Spitalfields 128 Princes St, Edinburgh. 16 Dundas St,
London W1. Commercial St, London E1. Tel 0131226 2666. Edinburgh EH3.
Tel 0207980 8425. Open 9am–5pm daily. One of many branches. Tel 0131558 1200.
102 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
DIRECTORY
Theater Glyndebourne Sadler’s Wells Manchester M20 2BB.
Lewes, East Sussex BN8. Rosebery Ave, Tel 0161-445 6111.
Barbican Tel 01273-812 321. London EC1. ∑ thebmc.co.uk
Silk St, London EC2. Tel 020-7863 8000.
London Coliseum Canal & River Trust
Tel 020-7638 4141. The Place First Floor North, Station
St. Martin’s Lane,
Bristol Old Vic London WC2. 17 Duke’s Road, House, 500 Elder Gate,
King St Bristol BS1. London WC1. Milton Keynes MK9 1BB.
Tel 020-7845 9300.
Tel 020-7121 1100. Tel 0303-040 4040.
Tel 0117-987 7877.
Royal Albert Hall ∑ canalrivertrust.
Edinburgh Festival Kensington Gore, Cinema org.uk
The Hub, Castlehill, London SW7. English Golf Union
Tel 020-7589 8212
BFI London IMAX
Edinburgh EH1. National Golf Centre,
Waterloo Rd, London SE1.
Tel 0131-473 2000. or 0845-401 5034. The Broadway, Woodhall
Tel 0330-333 7878.
Royal Festival Hall Spa, Lincs LN10.
National Theatre
Southbank Centre, Outdoor Activities Tel 01526-354 500.
Southbank Centre, ∑ englandgolf.org
London SE1. London SE1.
All England Lawn
Tel 020-7452 3000. Tel 0844 875 0073. Outward Bound
Tennis and Croquet
Hackthorpe Hall,
Royal Opera House Club
Royal Exchange Hackthorpe,
Bow St, London WC2. Church Road, Wimbledon,
St. Anne’s Square, Cumbria CA10 2HX.
Tel 020-7304 4000. London SW19.
Manchester M2. Tel 01931-740 000.
Tel 020-8944 1066.
Tel 0161-833 9833. Wembley Arena ∑ outwardbound.
Empire Way, Wembley, Association of org.uk
Royal Shakespeare Pleasure Craft
Middlesex HA9. Ski Club of Great
Theatre Operators
Tel 0844-815 0815 or Britain
Stratford-upon-Avon Marine House, 57–63 Church Road,
0844-824 4824.
CV37. Tel 0844-800 1110. Thorpe Lea Rd, London SW19.
Wigmore Hall Egham, Surrey. Tel 020-7410 2000.
Traverse 36 Wigmore St, London Tel 01784-223 640. ∑ skiclub.co.uk
Cambridge St, Edinburgh W1. Tel 020-7935 2141.
EH1. Tel 0131-228 1404.
British Activity
Providers Association
Dance Tel 01746-769 982.
Music
ICA ∑ thebapa.org.uk
Eventim Apollo Nash House, Carlton British Mountain
Queen Caroline St, House Terrace, The Mall, eering Council
London W6. London SW1. The Old Church, 177–179
Tel 020-8563 3800. Tel 020-7930 3647. Burton Rd, West Didsbury,
104 G R E AT B R I TA I N
Where to Stay
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Price Guide
London The Goring £££ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Historic Map C4
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Beeston Place, SW1W 0JW
DK Choice Tel 020 7396 9000 £ under £100
££ £100 to £200
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: ∑ thegoring.com
£££ over £200
Andaz Liverpool Street ££ A great English institution, with
Boutique Map F3 liveried doormen, gardens, and
40 Liverpool Street, EC2M 7QN crackling fires on winter days.
Tel 020 7961 1234 DK Choice
∑ london.liverpoolstreet. WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: CHICHESTER:
andaz.com The Ritz £££ Ship Hotel ££
Several cool bars and Luxury Map C3 Boutique
restaurants, along with a hidden 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR North St, West Sussex,
Masonic temple await in this Tel 020 7493 8181 PO19 1NH
refurbished palatial old railroad ∑ theritzlondon.com Tel 01243 778 000
hotel. Bedrooms are minimalist A treat, with stunning Louis XVI- ∑ theshiphotel.net
but comfortable. The lobby has style bedrooms with all mod In a splendid listed building and
a room for guests to mingle cons and a gilded dining room. former home of Admiral Sir
over free refreshments. George Murray, who fought
alongside Nelson, individually
styled rooms burst with color,
REGENT’S PARK AND Southern England and there’s a cozy cottage.
BLOOMSBURY: The Arch ££
Boutique ARUNDEL: April Cottage £
50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD B&B HEVER: Hever Castle B&B ££
Tel 020 7724 4700 Crossbush Lane, West Sussex, B&B
∑ thearchlondon.com BN18 9PQ Hever Castle, Kent, TN8 7NG
Guests at these cleverly converted Tel 01903 885 401 Tel 01732 861 800
townhouses can also enjoy The ∑ april-cottage.co.uk ∑ hevercastle.co.uk
Arch’s bar and laid-back dining. This simple but charming Magnificent Edwardian rooms,
cottage located near the some with four-poster beds.
REGENT’S PARK AND wetlands serves good breakfasts. Includes free access to the castle.
BLOOMSBURY: Hart House ££
B&B Map C2 BRIGHTON: Hotel Una £££ LEWES: The Shelleys ££
51 Gloucester Place, W1U 8JF Boutique Historic
Tel 020 7935 2288 55–56 Regency Square, East Sussex, 135–136 High St., East Sussex, BN7 1XS
∑ harthouse.co.uk BN1 2FF Tel 01273 472 361
Spotless rooms and excellent Tel 01273 820 464 ∑ the-shelleys.co.uk
breakfast can be found at this ∑ hotel-una.co.uk Family-run 17th-century country-
award-winning townhouse B&B. Supremely elegant, wonderfully house hotel with luxurious rooms.
colorful rooms, plus cocktail bar.
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND PORTSMOUTH:
HYDE PARK: The Ampersand ££ CANTERBURY: Number 4 Hotel £
Boutique Map B4 Cathedral Lodge £ Boutique
10 Harrington Road, SW7 3ER Boutique 69 Festing Road, Southsea,
Tel 020 7589 5895 The Precincts, Kent, CT1 2EH Hampshire, PO4 0NQ
∑ ampersandhotel.com Tel 01227 865 350 Tel 02392 008 444
The whimsical interiors at this ∑ canterburycathedrallodge.org ∑ number4hotel.co.uk
hotel are inspired by music, Stylish rooms in the grounds Plush designer hotel close to
science, and nature. of Canterbury Cathedral. both the town and the seafront.
SOUTHAMPTON:
Hotel Terravina ££
Modern
174 Woodlands Road, Woodlands,
Hampshire, SO40 7GL
Tel 02380 293 784
∑ hotelterravina.co.uk
On the edge of the New Forest.
The Goring, a luxurious family-run hotel in London’s Belgravia district Chic rooms feature rain showers.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 105
SOUTHWOLD:
Sutherland House £££
Seafood
56 High Street, Suffolk, IP18 6DN
Tel 01502 724 544 Closed Oct–Mar:
Mon
Sutherland House’s superb
dining room is the ideal setting
to enjoy dishes such as seared
scallops and pan-fried wild sea
bass. The menu also features The entrance to The Peat Inn, in Cupar, Scotland
excellent game dishes.
Ingredients are sourced locally. LEEDS: Salvo’s ££ such as leek, tarragon, and
Italian butternut-squash risotto. Try
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON: 107/115 Otley Rd., Headingley, LS6 3PX the tartlet made with creamy
The Opposition Bistro £ Tel 01132 755 017 Scottish Dunsyre blue cheese
International This innovative Italian restaurant and slow-dried tomatoes.
13 Sheep Street, Warwickshire, serves a contemporary menu in
CV37 6EF an informal ambience. It also has FINDHORN: The Bakehouse £
Tel 01789 269 980 Closed Sun a well-stocked salumeria (deli). Café
except bank hols 91–92 Forres, IV36 3YG
The Opposition Bistro’s timber- MANCHESTER: Wahaca £ Tel 01309 691 826
framed interior creates a great Mexican The Bakehouse is renowned
atmosphere. Come here to enjoy The Corn Exchange, M4 3TR for its organic produce. Meat
traditional bistro standards, such Tel 0161 413 7493 options include tasty pork and
as fish cakes and steak. Cool restaurant and takeaway venison burgers. Mouthwatering
serving beautifully cooked home baking, too.
Mexican street food.
FORT WILLIAM:
Northern England The Lime Tree ££
Modern Scottish
AMBLESIDE: Fellini’s £ Scotland The Old Manse, Achintore Road,
Vegetarian PH33 6RQ
Church Street, Cumbria, LA22 0BT CUPAR: The Peat Inn £££ Tel 01397 701 806
Tel 01539 432 487 Pubs Highly praised hotel-restaurant
This stylish modern vegetarian Near St. Andrews, Fife, KY15 5LH famous for its warm service and
place is attached to a small but Tel 01334 840 206 Closed Sun excellent food. Specialties
glamorous arthouse cinema. & Mon include pan-seared Glenfinnan
The menu at this Michelin- venison, mackerel, West Coast
BOLTON ABBEY: Devonshire starred rural retreat expertly crab, and smoked haddock.
Arms Brasserie £ utilizes local produce, such as
British/French salmon, langoustine, and beef. GLASGOW: Café Gandolfi £
Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 6AJ Diners get to savor dishes from Café
Tel 01756 710 710 the multicourse tasting menu. 64 Albion Street, G1 1NY
Enjoy British and French cuisine Tel 01415 526 813
in a coaching inn dating back DUNDEE: Jute Café Bar £ Café Gandolfi is a Glasgow
to 1753. Informal atmosphere. Café institution and part of the
Dundee Contemporary Arts, Gandolfi mini-empire. Come
152 Nethergate, DD1 4DY here for great breakfasts, light
DK Choice Tel 01382 909 246 lunches, or substantial dinners.
CARTMEL: L’Enclume £££ This artistic café at the Dundee A relaxed dining experience.
British Contemporary Arts center serves
Cavendish Street, Cumbria, light lunches, as well as a three- TYNDRUM:
LA11 6PZ course evening meal. The menu The Real Food Café £
Tel 01539 536 362 includes dishes such as steak, as Café
An ancient building with rough well as chocolate torte. Perthshire, FK20 8RY
limewashed walls and low Tel 01838 400 235
beams is the rustic setting for EDINBURGH: David Bann £ The Real Food Café serves
some extraordinary food. Savor Vegetarian arguably the best fish ’n’ chips
local cuisine that is partly 56–58 St. Mary’s Street, EH1 1SX in the whole of Scotland. Diners
foraged and presented with Tel 01315 565 888 can enjoy a large or small fish
close attention to detail. A stylish fine-dining restaurant supper and sample excellent
with delicious vegetarian dishes, coffee as well as cakes.
B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D 111
IRELAND
It is easy to see Ireland as a lush, green island dotted with quaint, thatched
cottages and friendly pubs filled with music, wit, and poetry. Despite the
contrasting reality of rapid economic growth and fundamental political change,
the tourist industry helps sustain this image of rural bliss, and the genuine good
humor of the people invariably makes Ireland a most welcoming place to visit.
History and religion have created two 2010 was paid off within three years. The
communities in Ireland, with the Protestant economy is slowly recovering. Agriculture
majority in the North determined to remain remains a mainstay, with dairy cattle
part of the United Kingdom. In the latter feeding on rich meadowlands and sheep
half of the 20th century, violent attacks in grazing on the poorer upland pastures.
Northern Ireland tarnished the world’s view The traditional Irish talent for breeding
of the country, but in 1998 the Good Friday and training racehorses is undiminished.
Agreement brought new hopes for peace. Tourism also thrives, with more than 6.5
Despite the Troubles of the past, the Irish million visitors to the Republic each year.
retain a positive attitude. The Republic of Dublin is one of Europe’s hotspots for a
Ireland, formerly one of the poorer countries weekend break, as well as being a tech
of the European Union, became one of its hub, with many media companies having
success stories during the economic boom their headquarters there.
known as the “Celtic Tiger” years. Between
1990 and 2007, the economy saw growth History
of between 7 and 11 percent annually. But In the past, Ireland’s isolation cut it off
in 2008, it became evident that the inflated from many of the major events of
economy was built on an unsustainable European history. Roman legions never
property bubble. The worldwide recession invaded, and the country’s early history
did not spare Ireland, but an €85 billion is shrouded in myths of warring gods
bailout provided by the EU and IMF in and heroic High Kings.
Exploring Ireland
Dublin is Ireland’s chief attraction, a small, friendly
capital with most of its sights and lively nightlife
concentrated in the center. Elsewhere the pace
of life is less hectic and the country’s great appeal
is in its landscape: from the lush green pastures,
bogs, and lakes of the center of the island to
dramatic mountains and bleak, rocky
headlands in the southwest. Touring Jaunting car for hire in Killarney
by car is the most convenient way
to explore Ireland, which has a Old Bushmills
Distillery Giant’s
good-quality road network on Causeway
Londonderry
both sides of the border. Dunglow (Derry) Coleraine Troon,
Cairnryan
A2
Letterkenny
N13
A26
A29
N 56
A6
A5
Donegal Ulster- N ORT H E RN Larne
American Lough Neagh M2
Rossnowlagh Folk Park Omagh
A32 IR E L A N D Belfast
Liverpool,
Lower Lough Erne A4 M1
Belmullet Hillsborough Douglas
A1
Sligo Enniskillen
N59 N16 Armagh Portaferry
Newcastle
7
N26
N1
N4
on-Shannon
N5
Cavan Dundalk
Knock
N2
Westport
Lough
RE P U BLIC Monasterboice
IRISH
Letterfrack Mask N5
5 Kells
SEA
M1
Lough Drogheda
Roscommon
N1
Ree
Clifden N59 Newgrange
7
N63
Connemara
Lough
Corrib Athlone OF Mullingar
N2
M4
M3
Liverpool,
Galway M6 Castletown M1 Holyhead
M6 Clonfert Clonmacnoise House DUBLIN
ATLANTIC IRE LA N D
7
Dún Laoghaire
M
7
OCEAN Aran N6
Ennistimon Lough Port
Kildare Bray
Islands
M9
Laoise
on
Derg
nn
18
M7 Glendalough Wicklow
Sha
Ennis
M
N68 Carlow
Kilkee Bunratty Castle Arklow
Shannon
M8
N7
7
Limerick
Adare N2 Kilkenny N1
1
4
Cashel
Tipperary New
9
Slaney
N6
1
N2 Ross
N20
Wexford
Killarney Mallow Waterford Pembroke,
Killorglin N72
Fermoy Fishguard
N2
5 Rosslare
8
M
Dublin
PER ET
1
UP STRE
Dublin Writers
Museum
T
RSE
Although it is a fairly small city, Ireland’s capital is Hugh Lane
DO
Municipal Gallery
famous for its many pubs, and its rich cultural heritage GR of Modern Art
AN
BY GARDEN OF
attracts millions of visitors each year. The Liffey River RO
W REMEMBRANCE
LN
T
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BY
runs through the middle of the city, and was the
PA
AN
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original source of its prosperity. The first harbor in
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Dublin was established in the early 9th century, when M K
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outside Scandinavia on the site of the present city. D
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Since then, it has suffered wars and conflict over many IN
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centuries. In the 20th century, Dublin established N
ST
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its own identity and today it is
TH
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a thriving, modern city, rich in STREET L
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history and proud of its past. ANNE W
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CHURCH TCE IN
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STR
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AND
1 Trinity College
SWIFT’S
STR
CHA
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CHA
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2 Merrion Square
E
L ITT L
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Courts OND
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SQUARE
ST W
R Bridge
3 National Gallery of Ireland P P E
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Y U AY
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I N N S Q O N D Bridge TON
4 National Museum Station Father Mathew
U A Y O R M
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TEMPLE
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Bridge
TEMP LE LANE
of Ireland – Archaeology M E R C H Rossa Bridge ESSEX
Q U AY ST
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Q U AY ES S E X
SOUT H
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5 Grafton Street EXCHA R
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WINET ET
GE
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6 Temple Bar
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7 Dublin Castle
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Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
DUBLIN 115
GAR MID
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DIN
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Getting Around
BOU Q U
WIL
BBEY HAR
L OW
A Butt Memorial
Dublin is fairly easy to get around.
LIA
E N Bridge Bridge
M’S
E D
e y The suburban train service DART
R
S
f f
TT
OW
AY
ER
LO
LITT E
GEO RGE ’S
L i QU QUAY
LAN
L K
serves three stations in the city
ON
STREET
H
W AO'Connell RG
STREET
MOSS
S BU
HAW KI
O R
C H
E L
Bridge
POOLBEG
STREET
center – Connolly, Tara Street, and
WESTMORELAND ST
B A
D
Tara
'O
Ha'penny Q U
PRICE'S LN
STREET
Street
LI
TARA
Bridge N
coast to the north and south of
RE ET
ASTON PL
ER
T O
LUKE
ADAIR
A S
ST
LANE
the city. Bus services run every
BEDFORD
ASDILL’S
ROW
T
S T R E E
ROW
BAR
T
GDN LA
SPRING
EE
ANGLE SEA STREE T
PEA
departs every hour or two on
CROWN
TR
ALLEY
RSE
S
STR
EET selected routes on Friday and
E
COLLEGE LAN
TRI
S SUFF
N
LANE
W’
and inland suburbs. Dublin Bikes
IT
T E OL
Y
DR K
S
AN ST
RE
ET
COLLEGE is a self-service bike-rental-
ST
EXCHEQUER
ST
WICK L
OW
ST
NA
SS
AU PARK scheme with more than 100 hire
STR RY
Powerscourt ST
T
ET
Townhouse RE
EE
EET
ET
N LANE
CA
RE
LANE
NC
RK
OU
ET LEIN
STR
DUKE ST E
N
FEN
LI
ST S
STREE R ST S IAN
DO
DAWSO
JOHN T TH
R
SON STR
TL
CT SETA CL
ICK
EE
EN
NTA AR
NS
T
DUKE
LEMON PLA ES
DER
CE
AR
RRIO
TR
ET
STREET National EE D
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Bewley's
A
T
FRE
EN
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Library
EL
MOL
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ST SOUT ORT
H ST M LL
Café H ER
CL
ST
REE E
LANE
PLA RTH
T
CHA RI LA
SWO
THA St Ann's ON N
Q
CE
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ROWNDON
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GRAFTO N
ANNE’S
NS
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Church Leinster SQ
ST
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SCHO
UA
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House
IO
AR
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USE LA
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RR
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Mansion National
HO
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Government SO
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Iveagh NE 0 meters 300
LA
House ON
ES
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0 yards 300
REET
The Bank of Ireland
ST
is a grand Georgian
S
edifice, originally built
N
F
as the Irish Parliament.
TO
F
O
L
AF
K
S
GR
T
Statue of Molly
Malone (1988)
Grafton Street
This popular pedestrian street is home to many
of Dublin’s best stores, such as Brown Thomas
(see p119).
T
EE
DU
R
KE
ST
ST
RE
N
ET
O
FT
A
R
residence of Dublin’s
ST
S
T.
S
T
E
P
H
E
N
’S
G
R
E
E
St. Stephen’s Green N
N
This relaxing city park is surrounded by many O
R
fine buildings. In summer, lunchtime concerts T
H
attract tourists and workers alike.
National Library
Saintly cherubs appear on the
frieze around the library’s
magnificent old reading room,
once a hangout
of novelist James Joyce.
N Leinster House
A
SS was taken over as the seat of
A
U the Irish Parliament in 1922.
ST
RE
ET
. National Museum of
ET
Ireland – Archaeology
RE
M
O
L
S TE S W
RE O
ETRT
H
T
EE
R
ST
E
R
A
D
IL
0 meters 50
K
0 yards 50
Bermingham Tower
can be viewed at
Ship St Gate. It Octagonal
served as a prison Tower
and as a storage (c.1812) Record
place for adminis- Tower
tration records.
Entrance to
Housed in the Neo-Gothic
Upper Yard
Synod Hall, which is linked
by a bridge to Christ Church
Lower Yard
Cathedral, this heritage center
covers the period of Dublin’s
history from the arrival of the
Anglo-Normans in 1170 to
Government the closure of the monasteries
offices in the 1540s. An audio tour
Figure of Justice takes visitors through lifesize
Cynical Dubliners have joked that reconstructions of the medieval
this statue above the castle city. There is also a Viking
Chapel Royal entrance appears to be warship and an interactive
(1814) turning her back on the city. archaeology exhibition.
122 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
q The Liffey Gandon at the end of the 18th rights in the 19th century.
century. In 1921, supporters The street was laid out in the
@ 25, 25A, 51, 66, 66A, 67, 67A, 68, 69
of Sinn Féin celebrated their 18th century as an elegant
and many others.
election victory by setting residential parade, but the
Though modest in size light to the Custom House, construction of Carlisle (now
compared with the rivers of seen as a symbol of British O’Connell) Bridge in 1790
other capital cities, the Liffey imperialism. The building turned it into the city’s
features strongly in Dubliners’ was not fully restored until principal north-south route.
everyday lives and holds a 1991, when it reopened as As a result, little remains of
special place in their affections. government offices. A its intended grandeur.
The handiest pedestrian link series of 14 magnificent A few venerable
between Temple Bar (see p120) heads by Edward Smyth, buildings survive,
and the north of the city is personifying Ireland’s including the General
Ha’penny Bridge. This attractive, rivers and the Atlantic Post Office, which
cast-iron bridge, originally called Ocean, form the became a symbol of the
Wellington Bridge, was opened keystones of arches 1916 Easter Rising.
in 1816. Its official name now and entrances. Members of the Irish
is the Liffey Bridge. Its better- The Four Courts Volunteers and
known nickname comes from suffered a similar Irish Citizen
the toll of a halfpenny levied fate during the Army seized the
on it up until 1919. Irish Civil War of building on
The two most impressive 1921–2, when it The monument to Easter Monday,
buildings on the Liffey are the was bombarded Daniel O’Connell and Patrick
Custom House and the Four by government Pearse read out
Courts, both designed by James troops after being seized by the Proclamation of the Irish
anti-Treaty rebels. Here too, Republic from its steps. The
the buildings were restored to rebels remained inside for a
their original design. A copper- week, but shelling from the
covered lantern dome rises British eventually forced them
above a Corinthian portico out. During the following
crowned with the figures of weeks, 14 of the leaders were
Moses, Justice, and Mercy. caught and shot. Inside the
building is a sculpture of the
mythical Irish hero Cuchulainn,
w O’Connell Street dedicated to those who died,
and a small museum tells the
@ 2, 3, 11, 13, 16A, and many others.
history of the postal service.
Dublin’s main thoroughfare, A walk up the central mall is
formerly called Sackville Street, the best way to inspect the
was renamed in 1922 after series of sculptures lining the
Daniel O’Connell, who was route. At the south end stands
Carved head representing the River known as the “Liberator” for his a massive memorial to Daniel
Liffey, Custom House tireless campaigns for Catholic O’Connell, unveiled in 1882.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139
DUBLIN 123
Lookout window
Ireland became Christian in the 5th century, following
the missions of St. Patrick and others. The situation was
soon reversed, with many Irish missionaries, such as St. Wooden floor
Columba and St. Columbanus, sailing to Great Britain, Movable ladder
France, and beyond. The Irish church developed more
Round towers, first
or less free from the control of Rome, but nevertheless built in the 10th
had strong links with the east. As in Egypt, the Christian century, were bell
faith inspired a proliferation of hermitages and remote houses, store houses,
monasteries. Decorative motifs in illuminated and landmarks for
approaching visitors.
manuscripts reflect Egyptian Christian imagery, and The entrance could
materials used in making the inks came from the Middle be 4 m (13 ft) above
East. The advent of the Vikings in the 9th century forced ground and was
the monasteries to take defensive measures, but they reached by a ladder.
continued to flourish despite frequent raids.
Refectory Abbot’s house
Celtic Monastery and kitchen
This reconstruction shows Glendalough (see p125) in
about 1100. Monasteries were probably the largest Craftsmen’s
centers of population in Ireland before the dwellings
Vikings started to found towns.
St. Mary’s
Church
Muiredach’s Cross at
Monasterboice is the finest
surviving example of a cross
carved with biblical scenes.
This panel shows the Fall of
Ornamental High Cross of the Scriptures,
Man: Eve offering Adam the
Cross at Ahenny Clonmacnoise
apple in the Garden of Eden
and Cain slaying Abel.
Clonmacnoise was
founded in the 6th century.
The monastery was noted
for its piety and scholarship.
Now it is an atmospheric
collection of ruins in a
remote spot on the
Shannon. This carved
Romanesque doorway is
The cathedral was the
The Crozier of the Abbots part of the Nun’s Church.
largest of the many
churches built in and of Clonmacnoise dates
around the monastery. from the 11th century. The
incised patterns on
the ornate silver
casing show the strong
influence of Viking designs.
+ Blarney Castle
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 0214-385252.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24 & 25. =
South channel of the Lee River flowing through the city of Cork 7 grounds only. ∑ blarneycastle.ie
0 Killarney
Co. Kerry. * 13,500. £ @
n Beech Road (064-663 1633).
∑ killarney.ie
The Murder
Hole was
designed for
pouring
boiling water
or pitch onto
the heads of
attackers.
Entrance
North Front
The entrance, raised Main Guard
well above ground This was where the
level to deter castle’s soldiers ate, slept,
invaders, is typical of and listened to music
castles of the period. from the Minstrels’ Gallery.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139
IRELAND 131
The extraordinarily regular columns of the Giant’s Causeway, exposed at low tide
a rival Scottish giant. The main claim to fame is whiskey. centuries. It also shows
geological explanation is that 61 The Old Bushmills plant prides what became of them,
million years ago, in a series of itself on being the oldest following stories of both
volcanic eruptions, molten lava distilery in the world, its “Grant fortune and failure.
poured from narrow fissures in to Distil” dating from 1608. The park has more than
the ground, filling in the valleys. In 1974, Bushmills joined the 30 historic buildings, some of
The basalt lava cooled rapidly. In Irish Distillers Group, based at them original, some replicas.
the process, it shrank and the Midleton plant near There are settler homesteads,
cracked evenly into poly Cork (see p128), but its a mass house, a post office, a
gonal blocks. Towards brands have retained schoolhouse, and a forge, some
the end of the Ice their distinctive with craft displays, all with
Age, erosion by sea character. “Old costumed interpretative guides.
ice exposed the Bushmills” is There’s also an Ulster streetscape,
rocks and shaped the unusual in that a reconstructed emigrant ship,
Causeway. Most of the it is made from a and a Pennsylvania farmstead,
columns are hexagonal, blend of single malt complete with log barn, corn
but some have four, five, Whiskey barrel at and a single grain. The crib, and smokehouse. The six
eight, or even ten sides. Old Bushmills tour of the distilery, roomed farmhouse is based
They are generally about which features audio on one built by Thomas Mellon
30 cm (12 in) across. There are, in visual displays, ends with a and his father in the early years
fact, three causeways: the Grand, sampling session in the “1608 of their new life in America.
Middle, and Little. Distinctive Bar,” which is housed in the The Centre for Migration
features have been given poetic former malt kilns. Studies assists the descendants
names, such as the “Honeycomb” of emigrants in tracing their
and the “Wishing Chair.” family roots. Popular American
o Ulster-American
Tourists arrive by the busload festivals, such as Halloween
from the visitors’ center, but it is Folk Park and Independence Day, are
easy to escape the crowds by Co. Tyrone. Tel 0288224 3292. celebrated at the park.
taking one of the coastal paths. @ from Omagh. Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun (Oct–Feb: to 4pm). & =
0 7 ∑ nmni.com
i Old Bushmills
Distillery One of the best openair
Bushmills, Co. Antrim. Tel 0282073 museums of its kind, the Folk
3218. @ from Giant’s Causeway & Park grew up around the
Coleraine. Open daily (pm only Sun). restored boyhood home of
Closed Good Fri pm, Jul 12, 2 weeks Judge Thomas Mellon (founder
at Christmas. & = 8 obligatory. of the Pittsburgh banking
0 7 limited. ∑ bushmills.com dynasty). The park’s permanent
exhibition, called “Emigrants,”
Bushmills has an attractive examines why two million
square and an excellent river for people left Ulster for America Pennsylvania log farmhouse at the
salmon and trout fishing, but its during the 18th and 19th Ulster-American Folk Park
134 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
DIRECTORY
Tourist Boards Canada easyJet Stena Line
7–8 Wilton Terrace, Tel 0870-6000 000 (UK). Tel 01-907 5555.
Fáilte Ireland Dublin 2. ∑ easyjet.com
Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Tel 01-234 4000. ∑ stenaline.co.uk
Baggot St Bridge,
Flybe
Dublin 2. Tel 01-602 4000. UK Rail Travel
∑ flybe.com
US: 345 Park Avenue, 29 Merrion Rd,
Dublin 4. Ryanair Irish Rail (Iarnród
New York, NY 10154. Tel 01-205 3700. Tel 1520 444 004. Éireann)
Tel 1800-223 6470. Tel 01-836 6222.
US Tel 0871-246 000 (UK).
∑ irishrail.ie
∑ discoverireland.ie 42 Elgin Rd, ∑ ryanair.com
Northern Ireland
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. United Airlines
Northern Ireland Railways
Tel 01-668 8777. Tel 028-9066 6630.
Tourist Board Tel 1800-864 8331 (US).
∑ united.com ∑ translink.co.uk
St. Anne’s Court, 59 North Emergency
St, Belfast BT1 1NB. Services Bus Companies
Ferry Companies
Tel 028-9023 1221. Police, Ambulance, Bus Éireann
∑ discovernorthern and Fire services Irish Ferries Tel 01-836 6111.
Tel 999. Tel 0818-300 400. ∑ buseireann.ie
ireland.com
(Republic and NI). Tel 08717-300 400 (UK). Ulsterbus/Translink
∑ irishferries.com Tel 028-9066 6630.
Embassies Airlines
∑ translink.co.uk
P&O Ferries
Australia Aer Lingus
Tel 1890 800 600 Tel 01-686 9467 Car Rental
7th Floor, Fitzwilton (Republic).
Tel 0333 004 5000 (UK). Holiday Autos
House, Wilton Terrace, Tel 516 622 4222 (US). Tel 0808-130 0030 (UK). Tel 020-3740 9859 (UK).
Dublin 2. Tel 01-664 5300. ∑ aerlingus.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ holidayautos.ie
136 B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
branches around the country times. In the countryside, pubs green turf and racing is a
for genuine traditional music provide an important focus for national passion. A day at the
and dance nights all year. far-flung rural communities, and track during Galway Race Week
some even double as stores. in July is a great social event.
Pubs vary greatly throughout Those who want to do more
Irish Festivals the country, so be sure to try than just watch should try
The Irish are expert festival out a few wherever you visit. horseback riding through the
organizers, staging a week of Dublin is famed for its literary unspoiled countryside.
street entertainment, theater, pubs; the Dublin Literary Pub Another way to experience
music, and dance to celebrate Crawl is an entertaining way to the countryside is to take a river
almost everything under the get a feel for the city’s booze- or canal cruise. Emerald Star
sun (see Directory for listings). fueled literary heritage. Music has a fleet of cruisers for use on
sessions are common in the pubs the waterways. Alternatively,
of Kilkenny and County Clare. you may want to play golf at
Irish Pubs Some of the most picturesque one of Ireland’s beautiful golf
The Irish pub is known for its establishments are in Cork and courses, or try some fishing.
convivial atmosphere and the Kerry. Galway’s tourists and Maps and locations for fishing
“craic” – the Irish expression for student population guarantee are available from the Central
fun. Wit is washed down with a lively pub atmosphere. Fisheries Board. The Golfing
the national drinks of whiskey Union of Ireland can advise on
or Guinness. golf courses.
City pubs often have grand Outdoor Activities Detailed information on a wide
interiors, a testament to the No matter where you are in range of outdoor activities is
importance of the brewing and Ireland, the countryside is never available from Fáilte Ireland (see
distiling industries in Victorian far away. Horses thrive on the p135), and local tourist offices.
DIRECTORY
Crafts Entertainment Grand Opera House Kilkenny Arts Festival
Venues Great Victoria St, Belfast. (Aug). 11 Patrick’s Court,
Belleek Pottery Tel 028-9024 1919. Patrick St, Kilkenny.
Belleek, Co. Fermanagh. Abbey Theatre Tel 056-776 3663.
Tel 028-6865 8501. Abbey St Lower, Lyric Theatre
Tel 028-9038 1081. Waterford Festival
Blarney Woollen Mills Dublin 1.
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 01-878 7222.
∑ lyrictheatre.co.uk of Light Opera
(late Sep–Oct). Theatre
Tel 021-451 6111. National Concert Hall
Bord Gáis Energy Royal. Tel 051-874 402.
Bricín Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2.
Theatre
26 High Street, Killarney, Tel 01-417 0000. Wexford Festival
Grand Canal Square,
Co. Kerry. Tel 064-663 4902. 3Arena of Opera
Docklands, Dublin 2.
North Wall Quay, Dublin 1. (Oct–Nov). Wexford
Galway Irish Crystal Tel 01-677 7999.
Tel 01-819 8888. Opera House.
Merlin Park, Galway.
Cork Opera House Tel 053-912 2144.
Tel 091-757 311. Ulster Hall
Emmet Place, Cork.
Jerpoint Glass Tel 021-427 0022. Bedford St, Belfast. Irish Pubs
Stoneyford, Co. Kilkenny. Tel 028-9033 4455.
Tel 056-772 4350. Crawford Art Gallery Dublin Literary Pub
Kilkenny Design
Emmet Place, Cork. Music, Dance, Crawl
Centre Tel 0214-480 5042. and Festivals 9 Duke St.
Tel 01-670 5602.
Castle Yard, Kilkenny. Druid Theatre Comhaltas Ceoltóirí
Tel 056-772 2118. Flood St, Galway. Éireann Outdoor
Magee of Donegal Tel 091-568 660. 32 Belgrave Sq, Activities
The Diamond, Donegal. Monkstown, Co. Dublin.
Gaiety Theatre Central Fisheries
Tel 073-22660. Tel 01-280 0295.
South King St, Dublin 2. Board
Royal Tara China Tel 0818-719 388. Dublin Theatre Tel 01-884 2600.
Tara Hall, Mervue, Galway. Festival
Garter Lane Arts ∑ fishinginireland.info
Tel 091-705 602. Assorted drama (Sep/Oct).
Centre 44 East Essex St, Dublin 2. Emerald Star
Thomas Ferguson
22A O’Connell St, Tel 01-677 8439. The Marina, Carrick-on-
Irish Linen
54 Scarva Road, Banbridge. Waterford. Shannon, Co. Leitrim.
Tel 051-855 038. Galway Arts Festival
Tel 028-4062 3491. Tel 071-962 7633.
Theater, music, and dance
Waterford Crystal Gate Theatre (Jul). Black Box Theatre, Golfing Union of
28 The Mall, Waterford. Cavendish Row, Dublin 1. Dyke Rd, Galway. Ireland
Tel 051-317 000. Tel 01-874 4045. Tel 091-509 700. ∑ golfnet.ie
138 IRELAND
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Dublin Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY:
Gresham Hotel €€€ € up to €80
Modern Map D2 €€ €80 to €180
€€€ over €180
23 O’Connell St Upper, Dublin 1
Tel 01-874 6881
∑ gresham-hotels.com DINGLE: Greenmount House €€
One of Dublin’s oldest and Modern
best-known hotels, the Gresham Upper John St, Dingle, Co. Kerry
offers cheerful, well-equipped Tel 066-915 1414
bedrooms with classic and ∑ greenmounthouse.ie
contemporary furnishings. Elegantly decorated rooms and
suites overlooking the harbor,
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: and an award-winning breakfast.
The Morrison €€€
Boutique Map C3 KILKENNY: Langton
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 House Hotel €€
Tel 01-887 2400 Boutique
∑ morrisonhotel.ie Georgian elegance and grandeur at The 69 John St
This luxurious hotel overlooking Merrion, southeast Dublin Tel 056-776 5133
the Liffey impresses with high ∑ langtons.ie
ceilings, dark woods, and A friendly hotel full of character.
handcrafted Irish carpets. DK Choice Excellent food and service.
FARTHER AFIELD:
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: Portmarnock Hotel and LIMERICK: 1 Pery Square €€
Buswells €€€ Golf Links €€ Boutique
Historic Map E4 Modern 1 Pery Square, Georgian Quarter
25 Molesworth St, Dublin 2 Portmarnock, Co. Dublin Tel 061-402 402
Tel 01-614 6500 Tel 01-846 0611 ∑ oneperysquare.com
∑ buswells.ie ∑ portmarnock.com A Georgian townhouse with
Open since 1882, Buswells is A beautifully decorated grand modern and period-style rooms,
one of Dublin’s oldest hotels. old Victorian beachside house, plus a luxurious spa.
It is slightly old-fashioned, with with well-furnished rooms, an
a sophisticated interior. elegant, comfortable bar, and
restaurants with epic views. DK Choice
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: There is also an 18-hole golf LOUGH ESKE:
The Merrion €€€ course and a luxury spa. Harvey’s Point €€€
Luxury Map E5 Luxury
Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2 Donegal Town, Co. Donegal
Tel 01-603 0600 Tel 074-972 2208
∑ merrionhotel.com ∑ harveyspoint.com
Georgian splendor in this luxurious, Rest of Ireland This Swiss-style hotel offers
expansive hotel. Guests enjoy palatial bedrooms overlooking
elegant interiors, roaring log fires, ARDMORE: Cliff House Hotel €€€ the lake, some with four-
and the indulgent Tethra spa. Luxury poster beds. Renowned for its
Middle Rd, Co. Waterford gourmet cuisine, the hotel’s
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: Tel 024-87800 restaurant offers an international
Avalon House € ∑ thecliffhousehotel.com fine-dining experience.
Modern Map C4 Most rooms here have a balcony
55 Aungier St, Dublin 2 or terrace overlooking the sea. Spa
Tel 01-475 0001 and Michelin-starred restaurant. NEWCASTLE: Slieve
∑ avalon-house.ie Donard Resort €€
Stay in well-priced and cheerful BELFAST: Europa Hotel €€ Modern
accommodations in a restored Modern Downs Rd, Co. Down, BT33 0AH
redbrick Victorian building. Great Victoria St, Co. Antrim, BT2 7AP Tel 028-4372 1066
Clean dorms have pine floors Tel 028-9027 1066 ∑ hastingshotels.com
and high ceilings. ∑ hastingshotels.com A majestic redbrick hotel with
Classic hotel with an elegant bar, spectacular views, all the
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: lounge, and two restaurants. comforts, and a golf course.
Brooks Hotel €€
Luxury Map D4 CASHEL: Cashel Palace Hotel €€ TRIM: Trim Castle Hotel €€€
59–62 Drury St, Dublin 2 Historic Modern
Tel 01-670 4000 Main St, Co. Tipperary Castle St, Co. Meath
∑ brookshotel.ie Tel 062-62707 Tel 046-948 3000
An immaculately maintained ∑ cashel-palace.ie ∑ trimcastlehotel.com
hotel with a great reputation. Set in a Queen Anne-style house Bright, spacious rooms, some
Contemporary flourishes and dating from 1730, with rooms overlooking the ruins of Trim
tasteful traditional decor. overlooking tranquil gardens. Castle. Friendly staff.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 139
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN:
Queen of Tarts €€
Café Map C3
4 Cork Hill, Dame St, Dublin 2
Tel 01-670 7499
This cozy French-style café
opposite Dublin Castle serves
soups, sandwiches, and an array
of sweet and savory tarts. The informal, relaxed interior of Café Paradiso, a vegetarian restaurant in Cork
FRANCE AND
THE LOW
COUNTRIES
Cherbourg
Rouen
Paris
St. Malo
Chartres
Rennes
Orléans
Limoges
Bordeaux
0 km 75
0 miles 75
Perpignan
Groningen
NETHERLANDS
(see pp236–61)
Amsterdam
Locator Map
Rotterdam
Dijon
Besançon
FRANCE
The best advocates for visiting France are the French themselves, convinced as
they are that their way of life is best, and their country the most civilized on
earth. The food and wine are justly celebrated, while French literature, art,
cinema, and architecture can be both profound and provocative. France is a
country that stimulates the intellect and gratifies the senses.
France belongs to both northern and Champagne, and Cognac; today, these
southern Europe, encompassing regions have been overtaken by chemicals,
ranging from Brittany, with its Celtic industrial machinery, telecommunications
maritime heritage, and Germanic Alsace- equipment, and fighter aircraft. The French
Lorraine, to the Mediterranean sunbelt and remain firmly committed to their roots,
the peaks of the Alps and Pyrenees. The however, and often keep a place in the
capital, Paris, is the country’s linchpin, with country for vacations or their retirement.
its intellectual excitement, intense tempo
of life, and notoriously brusque citizens. History
Strangely, as life in France becomes more Though famous for the rootedness of its
city-based and industrialized, so the desire peasant population, France has also been
grows to safeguard the old, traditional a European melting pot, from the arrival of
ways and to value rural life. The idea of life the Celtic Gauls in the 1st millennium BC
in the country – douceur de vivre (the Good through to the Mediterranean immigrations
Life), long tables set in the sun for the wine of the 20th century. Roman conquest by
and anecdotes to flow – is as seductive as Julius Caesar had an enduring impact
ever for residents and visitors alike. but, from the 4th and 5th centuries AD,
Nevertheless, the rural way of life has been Germanic invaders destroyed much of the
changing. Whereas in 1945 one person in Roman legacy. The Franks provided political
three worked in farming, today it is only leadership in the following centuries, but
one in 20. France’s main exports used to when their line died out in the late 10th
be luxury goods, such as perfumes, century, France was politically fragmented.
The Capetian dynasty gradually pieced undermined the authority of the Church
France together over the Middle Ages, and the state, nowhere more than in
a period of economic prosperity and France itself. The Revolution of 1789
cultural vitality. The Black Death and the ended the absolute monarchy and
Hundred Years’ War brought setbacks, introduced major social and institutional
and French power was seriously reforms, many of which were
threatened by the dukes of endorsed by Napoleon, whose
Burgundy and the English crown. empire dominated Europe at
In the Renaissance period, the start of the 19th century.
François I (reigned 1515–47) Yet the Revolution also
dreamt of making France a major inaugurated the instability
power, but was thwarted by the that has remained a hallmark
Habsburg Emperor Charles V. The of French politics: since 1789,
Reformation then plunged the France has seen three forms of
country into religious conflict. monarchy, two empires, and
However, the 17th century saw Napoleon, the brilliant five republics.
general who rose to be
France, under Louis XIV, rise Emperor of France
Throughout the political
to dominate Europe militarily turmoil of the 19th century,
and intellectually. France remained a leading
In the Age of Enlightenment, French source of literary and artistic movements.
culture and institutions were the envy of In painting, the French Impressionists
Europe. The ideas of Voltaire and Rousseau were the inspiration for the development of
modern art, and would-be painters began
KEY DATES IN FRENCH HISTORY to flock to Paris instead of Rome. France also
1200–700 BC Arrival of the Celts during the Bronze retained its position as the arbiter of taste
and Iron Ages in fashion, food, wine, and good manners.
51 BC Romans complete conquest of Gaul Rivalry with Germany dominated French
AD 481 Frankish leader Clovis becomes first politics for most of the late 19th and early
Merovingian king
20th centuries. The population losses in
800 Coronation of Charlemagne, greatest of the
Carolingians, as Holy Roman Emperor
World War I were traumatic for France,
1180–1223 Reign of Philip Augustus
while during 1940–44 the country was
1337–1453 Hundred Years’ War with England
occupied by Germany. Yet since 1955, the
1562–93 Wars of Religion
two countries have proved the backbone
1660–1715 Reign of Louis XIV
of the developing European Union.
1789 French Revolution
Modern Politics
1804 Napoleon crowned emperor
1815 Defeat of Napoleon: monarchy restored For much of the 20th century, domestic
1848 Revolution; short-lived Second Republic politics was marked by confrontations
1852–70 Second Empire under Napoleon III
1919 Treaty of Versailles after World War I
1940 Germans overrun France
1958 Fifth Republic with president Charles de Gaulle
1968 Student uprising and de Gaulle’s downfall
1994 Channel Tunnel opens
2002 Euro replaces Franc as legal tender
2010 Henry IV’s skull found; burial ceremony at
Basilica St. Denis in 2011
2012 New TGV line extends to Barcelona, Spain
The student uprising of May 1968, which challenged all the old
assumptions of the French ruling elite
FRANCE 147
Contemporary Society
Social change has resulted from the
decline in the influence of the Catholic
A French street café in the evening Church. Parental authoritarianism has
waned and there is a much freer
between Left and Right. In 1958, the ambiance in schools – two trends
problems of governing the country led to resulting from the May 1968 uprising.
the introduction of a new constitution – the French social life, except between close
Fifth Republic – with Charles de Gaulle as friends, has always been marked by
president. However, in 1968, protesting formality – handshaking, and the use of
students and striking workers combined titles and the formal vous rather than the
to paralyze the country and de Gaulle intimate tu. However, this is changing,
resigned the following year. especially among the young, who now
The old divide between Left and Right call you by your first name, and use tu
has given way to a more center-focused even in an office context. Standards of
consensus fostered by François dress have become more informal
Mitterrand, Socialist President too, though the French are still
from 1981 to 1995, and very keen to dress well.
forced on the Conservative France is a country where
Jacques Chirac, who tradition and progress are found
succeeded him, by the side by side. The Euro has
Tempting display of charcuterie and cheeses
election of Socialist on a Lyon market stall
taken over, yet some people
Lionel Jospin as Prime still calculate in “new” Francs,
Minister in 1997. In 2002, however, a land- introduced back in 1960. France’s agri-
slide victory for the center-right coalition business is one of the most modern in the
ousted Jospin; the election of Nicolas world, but the peasant farmer is deeply
Sarkozy as President in 2007 confirmed revered. France has Europe’s largest hyper-
the center-right politics. However, in markets, which have been ousting local
2012, Sarkozy lost the presidency to the grocers. Although American in inspiration,
Socialist candidate François Hollande. they are French in what they sell, with
wonderful displays of cheeses and a huge
Language and Culture range of fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs.
Culture is taken seriously in France:
writers, intellectuals, artists, and fashion
designers are held in high esteem. The
French remain justly proud of their films,
and are determined to defend it against
pressures from Hollywood. Other
activities – from the music industry to
the French language itself – are subject
to the same protectionist attitudes. The TGV, France’s impressive high-speed train
148 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
UNIT ED Harwich
A23
Folkestone
Portsmouth
belongs to northern Europe, while the south is Brighton
Dunkerque
Newhaven Calais
Mediterranean in climate and lifestyle. Distances
limit the amount of the country you can visit, Boulogne
A2
6
h
an extensive network of highways. Popular Englis Abbeville
Arras
tourist destinations include the châteaux
of the Loire, the mountains of the Alps and Dieppe
8
Amiens
A2
Cherbourg
Pyrenees, historic wine-growing regions
Le Havre
(see pp186–7), and the resorts of the
A16
17
N13
Rouen
D10
A1
Côte d’Azur. Plymouth Plymouth, Bayeux A13
Weymouth Caen
Cork 4 D163
A8 Charles de Gaulle
Roscoff
N154
A1
3
A28
N1
2 Mont-St-Michel PARIS
Brest St-Malo D9 2 Versailles
76 N1 Orly
N12 Chartres
N1
Rennes
A81
N1
65
N24 N15 A11
7
Le Mans
N137
Lorient
Orléans
A77
0
Carnac A1
Château de
A2
Blois
Chambord
8
A11 Angers
St-Nazaire
Nantes Loire Tours Château de
7
A8
Bourges
0
D91
D347
La Roche-
A1
sur-Yon
F R A N
7
Poitiers
N13
A8
3
A7
A20
Niort
La Rochelle
A10
D941
N141
Bay Limoges Clermont-
Angoulême Ferrand
of
A10
1
N2
Biscay
9
N10
A8
89 Périgueux e
D60 gn
do
Lascaux D or
N21
Bordeaux
22
N1
Arcachon 3
A6 D813
D84
D82
0 8
quayside at St-Tropez N8
A20
ar Rodez
G
on
ne
A63
A6
Golfe de 2
5
A6
Gascogne
8 Albi
A6
Key Bayonne
Toulouse
Biarritz D6
Highway 11
A6
Pau 3
Carcassonne
4
Bilbao 4
Major road A6
Lourdes
Railroad A61
Foix
Channel Tunnel Pyrenees
A9
Barcelona
Distance chart
Paris Distance by road in kilometers
Distance by road in miles
579
Bordeaux
360
221 799
Lille
Bruges 137 496
B EL GI UM
Ghent 462 538 682
334 424
Lyon
287
Lille Brussels 773 648 992 313
480 403 616 194
Marseille
Charleroi
Brussels 385 325 604 653 973
239 202 375 406 604 Nantes
D64
3
932 808 1152 472 187 1132
Frankfurt, Nice
579 502 716 293 116 703
St-Quentin Cologne
LUXEMBOURG 490 918 549 478 789 867 948 Strasbourg
A26 304 570 341 297 490 539 589
LUXEMBOURG
GERMANY 744 244 923 537 407 568 563 1013 Toulouse
462 152 574 334 254 353 349 629
Mannheim
Reims A4
D603
A4
Metz
Châlons-sur-Marne Karlsruhe
N4 A4 Stuttgart
in
N4 Nancy
e
6
Rh
A2
ne Strasbourg
S ei
Troyes
A31
A5
Sights at a Glance
A35
N59
A5
D60
4 Rouen a Lyon
Basel
Vézelay 5 Bayeux s Annecy
51 Dijon A36 d Grenoble
N1 Besançon 6 Mont-St-Michel pp174–5
7 St-Malo f Bordeaux
Beaune g Lascaux
8 Carnac
C E
Bern, Zurich
9 Nantes h Toulouse
SWITZERLAND 0 Poitiers j Pyrenees
A6
Loir
Lausanne k Carcassonne
e
A43
t Château de Chambord b Marseille
A43
St-Etienne
y Orléans n Cannes
1
A4
A4
A7
pp180–81
A75
Valence
A51
I TA LY
e
Rhôn
A7
N106 0 km 75
Genoa 0 miles 75
Avignon
A9
N8
A75
Nîmes Ligurian
5
1
A7
A5 Nice Sea
Montpellier Arles Monaco
Aix-en- Cote d'Azur
Provence Provence
Camargue
Marseille A8 Cannes
A5
57
0 A St-Tropez
Golfe du Lion Toulon
Iles
d'Hyères
Bastia
Ajaccio
Calvi Corsica
Ajaccio
150 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
1 Paris
Paris is a city of more than two million people, and has been
the economic, political, and artistic hub of France since Roman
times. During the medieval and Renaissance periods, Paris
dominated northern Europe as a religious and cultural center.
The city was rejuvenated in the mid-19th century, when its
slums were replaced with the elegant avenues and boulevards
that make modern Paris a delight to stroll around. Today, the
Notre-Dame, viewed from the tranquil
city strives to be at the heart of
setting of Square Jean XXIII
a unified Europe. Chic cafés, AV E M A
D
WAENUE
U
CMA
RU
E
E
FA CH
E
CA
AV
the major attractions G EN U HO
AV
DE
R AN UE B ANN UE
BD HAUSSM
HON
RN
DE DE O N
U VE
AR LA ND R
OT
LA
for many visitors. FRIED
A
RUE DE MIRO
ME G
CO
E
AV E D E ST
UR
N
TO
CE
H E
Charles de ETI
G
O
LL
IN
N BO
ES
SH
H Gaulle Étoile St Philippe
FOC
PL CHARLES OR
AV A
W
DE GAULLE E
du Roule
NUE
MESNIL
O Miromesnil
E
EN LA
RU
AVE U
G
AVEN
AV
UE
AVE F D
H E
U
Kléber R
D' IENA
R
EN
AV E
NY
NUE O George DE Franklin D
AVENUE
UE
CT
RIG
BUG
EAU V S Roosevelt
UE
VI
ER
RU
MA
D Victor Hugo EE
BI CH
EB
DE
RU E CO
E PE RN R
S E FRA AM
R AY M
IC
U
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Sight / Place of interest R
E
U
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EN
N Ségur
V
A
E
AV
Sights at a Glance
1 Ile de la Cité w Jardin des Tuileries Greater Paris (see inset map)
2 Notre-Dame pp154–5 e Musée de l’Orangerie d Montmartre
3 Sainte-Chapelle r Place de la Concorde f Parc de la Villette
4 Centre Pompidou t Musée d’Orsay g Cimetière du Père Lachaise
5 Musée Picasso y Musée Rodin h La Défense
6 Place des Vosges u Les Invalides j Bois de Boulogne
7 Place de la Bastille i Eiffel Tower k Château de Versailles pp168–9
8 Panthéon o Musée du Quai Branly l Basilique St-Denis
9 Jardin du Luxembourg p Palais de Chaillot z Disneyland Paris
0 St-Germain-des-Prés a Arc de Triomphe x Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte
q Musée du Louvre pp158–60 s Champs-Elysées c Château de Fontainebleau
PA R I S 151
Lille
Greater Paris
Getting Around Charles de
Gaulle Airport
N1
Pontoise
The Parisian subway consists of
A1
16 metro lines, referred to by A1
5
Enghien
their number and terminus Le Bourget 04
St Denis Airport A1
names. In central Paris, these
N184
lines overlap the routes of the
A1
4
RER commuter trains, which A86 N3
Bobigny
reach outlying areas. Buses are Disneyland
ine
N13
(10 km)
Se
often the fastest way to travel Nanterre A3
short distances. The city’s night A13
St Germain Montreuil
buses are called Noctiliens.
Taxis are expensive, but handy Rouen Boulogne
Reims
after the metro shuts down. A
A86
N7
self-service bike system, Vélib,
N20
Versailles
operates in central Paris. A86 Sceaux Créteil
Havre
4
Caumartin Orly
N10
A10
0 km Airport
T
BOULE 10
HE
A6
RU VARD
NC
E HAUSS
N6
MANN 0 miles 10 Fontainebleau Vaux-le-Vicomte
RO
AU Opéra
BE (40 km) (20 km)
NES
E T
R
U C I Richelieu
RU
CAP
NE
Madeleine PL DE Grands
Drouot Boulevards Key
EN
DES
L'OPERA
U
BD
VI
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LIE
AV
RU
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Bourse
HE
EN
Quatre
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Septembre
UE
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MP Réaumur RB BO
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RU H
O Palais Royal RU Etienne
AR
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NE E VO
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H
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QU
LEN
S
O Châtelet
BEAU
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E
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LE AI
BD
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RU
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RS QU Arts FR
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du Bac
LA
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QU
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ES
AR
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ASP
des Prés LE
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C IT
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St Michel
RU
M PE
R.
ES
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RUE DE TOURNO
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DU
NN
EL
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E
QU
RU
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ES
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CH
Sèvres
QU
St Sulpice Cluny la DE I
Babylone NR
DE
LA
JAC
HE
MI
Sorbonne TO
UR BD
E
Museé de Maubert NE
T
RU
E S
LLE
N
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DE VA UG I R A R
RU
RU
D
UE
R
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ST
EM
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QU A R TER Cardinal
ON
JARDIN DU Lemoine
GE
PLACE DU
R
LUXEMBOURG PANTHEON
U
JARDIN DE
NAVARRE
E
PLACE DE
RU
D
L'ESTRAPADE
RUE
AR
E
D
A U G U ST E C O M T Luxembourg
E
'A
EV
SS
G
UL
JACQUES
LU
A
BO
SSA
S
PLACE RU
ST
CAMILLE E
C
JULLIAN BE
E
RN
Port
RU
AR
D
Royal 0 kilometres 750
BD
DE
PO 0 miles 750
RT
RO
YA
L
Western end of the Ile de la Cité, where the island is crossed by the Pont Neuf
1 Ile de la Cité bridge in Paris, the Pont Neuf separated by pencil-like columns
q Châtelet, Cité. Conciergerie: 2 Blvd (new bridge), which dates back soaring 15 m (50 ft) to the star-
du Palais. Tel 01-53 40 60 80. Open to 1578. The colorful Marché aux studded roof. More than 1,100
daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & Fleurs et Oiseaux takes place biblical scenes from the Old and
8 (phone to check). ∑ conciergerie. daily in the Place Louis Lépine New Testaments are depicted,
monuments-nationaux.fr and is the city’s most famous as well as the story of how the
flower market. On Sundays, relics were brought to Sainte-
This boat-shaped island on the caged birds are also sold. Chapelle. The 86 panels of the
Seine is the nucleus of Paris. The circular Rose Window, which are
capital’s name derives from the best seen at sunset, tell the
Parisii, one of the Celtic tribes 2 Notre-Dame story of the Apocalypse.
who lived here in the 3rd century See pp154–5. Badly damaged during the
BC. The settlement was later Revolution, and converted into
expanded by the Romans, the a flour warehouse, the church
Franks, and the Capetian kings. 3 Sainte-Chapelle was renovated a century later
Remains of the earliest 4 Boulevard du Palais. Tel 01-53 40 60 by architect Viollet-le-Duc. The
buildings can be seen in the 80. q Cité. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, spire, erected in 1853, rises
Crypte Archéologique, below May 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 75 m (245 ft) into the air.
the square in front of Notre-
Dame cathedral, which stands Hailed as one of the great
at one end of the island. At the architectural masterpieces of
other end is another Gothic the Western world, this church
masterpiece: the Sainte-Chapelle was likened to “a gateway to
church, surrounded by the huge heaven” in the Middle Ages.
complex of buildings forming the Sainte-Chapelle was built in
Palais de Justice. One of these, 1248 to house sacred relics,
the sinister-looking Conciergerie, including Christ’s Crown of
was a prison from 1391 until Thorns, purchased from the
1914. During the French Revol- Byzantine emperor at great
ution, it filled to overflowing, and expense by the devout King
Marie-Antoinette was held in a Louis IX.
tiny cell here until her execution The church consists of two
in 1793. The Conciergerie has a chapels. The lower chapel was
superb Gothic Hall and a 14th- used by servants and minor
century clock tower. To the far officials, while the exquisite
east of the island, tiny Ile St Louis upper chapel, reached by
is a haven of riverside quays and means of a narrow, spiral
quiet streets. There are many fine staircase, was reserved for the
restaurants and chic shops here. royal family and courtiers. This
Crossing the western end of chapel has many glorious
the Ile de la Cité is the oldest stained-glass windows, The Gothic Sainte-Chapelle church
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11
PA R I S 153
5 Musée Picasso
Hôtel Salé, 5 Rue de Thorigny.
Tel 01-42 71 25 21. q St-Sébastien
Froissart, St-Paul. Open Tue–Sun.
&8-7
∑ museepicassoparis.fr
2 Notre-Dame
No other building embodies the history of . West Front
Paris more than Notre-Dame. It stands Three main portals with
superb statuary, a central
majestically on the Ile de la Cité, cradle of the
rose window, and an
city. Built on the site of a Roman temple, the openwork gallery are the
cathedral was commissioned by Bishop de outstanding features of
Sully in 1160. The first stone was laid in 1163, the cathedral’s facade.
marking the start of two centuries of toil by
armies of medieval architects and craftsmen.
It has been witness to great events of French
history ever since, including the coronation
of Napoleon Bonaparte (1804) and the state
funeral of Charles de Gaulle (1970).
During the Revolution, the building
was desecrated and rechristened
the Temple of Reason. Extensive
renovations (including the
addition of the spire and
gargoyles) were carried out in
the 19th century by architect
Viollet-le-Duc.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
6 Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame.
Tel 01-42 34 56 10. Open
8am–6:45pm daily, to 7:15pm Sat
& Sun (Treasury: 9:30am–6pm
Mon–Fri, to 6:30pm Sat; from
1:30pm Sun; towers: daily.)
5 8am, 9am, noon, 6:15pm
Mon–Fri; 8am, 9am, noon,
. Flying Buttresses 6:30pm Sat; 8:30am, 10am,
Jean Ravy’s spectacular flying buttresses at the east 11:30am, 12:45pm, 6:30pm Sun.
end of the cathedral have a span of 15 m (50 ft). & for Treasury and towers. 8
Transport
q Cité. @ 21, 38, 47, 85, 96 to
Ile de la Cité.
H A R P E
PE
L A
NT
D E
. Boulevard St-Michel
PO
E L
T
H
Boul’Mich, as it is affectionately R
TI
I C
PE
known, is a lively mélange of
M
U
D
stores, with nightclubs and
S T
E
RU
experimental film houses
V D
nearby.
B L
B L
V
D
S T
ES
Cluny- La Sorbonne G
E R
U
M
Q
A
I N
C
JA
ST
Little Athens
D
Greek restaurants
D
B
LV
R
situated in its D
A
picturesque S
N
T
E
streets. G
H
E
R
T
R M
U
E
E
U
D
R
E
S
E
C
O
LE
S
. Musée National du
Moyen Age
The museum holds a fine
collection of medieval art,
with many beautiful tapestries.
This detail is from the late
15th-century series of tapestries
The Lady with the Unicorn. 0 meters 100
0 yards 100
9 Jardin du
La Sorbonne
Luxembourg
Seat of the University of Paris
q Odéon. W Luxembourg.
until 1969, the Sorbonne was
established in 1257 by Robert Open daily.
de Sorbon, confessor to Louis This graceful and historic area
IX, to enable poor scholars to offers a peaceful haven in the
study theology. It achieved heart of Paris. The gardens,
fame as a center of learning which cover 25 ha (60 acres),
in the late Middle Ages. The
were opened to the public in
first printing house in France
the 19th century by their then
was founded here in 1469.
Suppressed during the owner, the Comte de Provence.
Revolution for opposition They are centered on the
to liberal 18th-century Luxembourg Palace, which was
philosophical ideas, and built for Marie de Médicis, the
re-established by Napoleon widow of Henri IV, and is now
in 1806, the Sorbonne split View of the Panthéon from the Jardin the home of the French Senate.
N T
P OE T I
T
O U
P O
U
I
D was built between 1764 and des-Prés. Open daily. 8 (reserve
A
of the oldest Hugo. The ashes of Pierre and philosopher, René Descartes.
churches in Marie Curie are also held here. After World War II, the area
G E
q Musée du Louvre
The Musée du Louvre, containing one of the world’s most
important art collections, has a history dating back to
medieval times. First built as a fortress in 1190 by King
Philippe-Auguste, it lost its dungeon and keep in the reign
of François I, who commissioned a Renaissance-style building. The Louvre’s east facade, added
Thereafter, four centuries of kings and emperors improved in the 17th century
and enlarged the palace. It was first opened as a museum
in 1793 under the First Republic.
Major Alterations
Reign of François I (1515–47)
Catherine de’ Médici (about 1560)
Reign of Henri IV (1589–1610)
Reign of Louis XIII (1610–43)
Reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715)
Reign of Napoleon I (1804–15)
Reign of Napoleon III (1852–70)
François Mitterrand (1981–95)
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Glass Pyramid
Plans for the Practical Information
modernization and Entrance through Pyramid
expansion of the Louvre or directly from metro.
were first conceived in Tel 01 40 20 53 17.
1981. These included the W Châtelet-les-Halles.
transfer of the Ministry of h Carrousel du Louvre
Finance from the (entrance via Ave du Général
Richelieu Wing to offices Lemmonnier); Place du Louvre,
elsewhere and a new Rue St-Honoré.
main entrance. This took Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon
the form of a metal and (to 9:45pm Wed & Fri, except
glass pyramid designed by architect I.M. Pei. Opened in 1989, the public hols). Closed Jan 1,
pyramid enables the visitor to see the surrounding buildings, May 1, Aug 15, Dec 25.
while allowing light down into the underground visitors’ & 7 partial. 8 phone
reception area. 01 40 20 59 90. ∑ louvre.fr
Transport
q Palais-Royal, Louvre Rivoli,
Musée du Louvre. @ 21, 24, 27,
39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95.
Pyramid
entrance
. Perrault’s Colonnade
The east facade, with its majestic rows
of columns, was built by Claude
Perrault, who worked on the
Louvre with Louis Le Vau in
the mid-17th century.
. Medieval Moats
The base of the twin towers
and the drawbridge support of
Philippe-Auguste’s fortress can
be seen in the excavated area.
160 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
u Les Invalides
q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne.
W Invalides. @ 28, 63, 69 & many
others. Hôtel des Invalides: Tel 08-10
11 33 99. Open daily. Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. St-Louis-des-
Invalides, Museums & Dôme Church:
Open daily (see website for times).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Jun 17, Nov 1,
Dec 25, first Mon of each month
(except Jul & Aug). & 8 7
restricted. ∑ musee–armee.fr
E A
E
N
FR
A ´i
IE
V D
responsible for the urban E
DL
H E
V
O
AN
modernization of Paris. V
C
A
H A
D
created a well-ventilated
O
C A
T
E
A
N E V
and ordered capital in a H
O D E L ´ E
geometrical grid. He also A V
m I C
AVE DE LA GRANDE ARMEE
— T
T
R
streetlights and sidewalks, M
N
H
A
E U
R
V G
V
A O
E
C
C
A
The deceptively rustic exterior of Au Lapin Agile, one of the best-known nightspots in Paris
k Château de Versailles
Visitors passing through the dazzling state rooms of this
colossal palace, or strolling in its vast gardens, will soon
understand why it was the glory of the Sun King’s reign.
Started by Louis XIV in 1668, the palace grew from a modest
hunting lodge built for his father, Louis XIII, to become the
largest palace in Europe, housing some 20,000 people.
Architect Louis Le Vau built the first section, which expanded
into an enlarged courtyard. From 1678, Jules Hardouin-
Mansart added the north and south wings and the superb . Hall of Mirrors
Hall of Mirrors. He also designed the chapel, completed in This magnificent room, 70 m
1710. The interiors were largely the work of Charles Le Brun, (233 ft) long, was the setting for
great state occasions. It was here
and the great landscape gardener André Le Nôtre redesigned
that the Treaty of Versailles was
the gardens with their monumental fountains. ratified at the end of World War I.
Marble Courtyard
The courtyard is decorated with
marble paving, urns, and busts.
Above the gilded central balcony,
the figures of Hercules and Mars
flank the clock on the pediment.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Versailles, Yvelines. Tel 01-30 83
78 00. £ Versailles Chantiers,
Versailles Rive Droite.
W Versailles Rive Gauche.
Open 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun
(5:30pm in winter). Closed some
public hols. & Grand & Petit
Trianon: Open pm daily.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
7 _ Grands Eaux Nocturnes
(Jul–Aug: Sat eve)
∑ chateauversailles.fr
Transport
@ 171 from Paris.
l Basilique St-Denis 1589), and Louis XVI and Marie- divided into five themed areas.
Antoinette (died 1793). Although these rely heavily on
1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur.
q St-Denis-Basilique. W St-Denis. Of the medieval effigies, the Hollywood nostalgia,
Tel 01-48 09 83 54. Open daily. most impressive are of Charles V Disneyland Paris has tried to
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & to (1364) and a 12th-century give the park a European touch.
the crypt. 8 7 restricted. likeness of Blanche de France “Frontierland,” inspired by
with her dog. Their mask-like the Wild West of 19th-century
Constructed between 1137 and serenity contrasts with the America, can be explored on
1281, the basilica is on the site of realistic Renaissance portrayal paddlewheel steamboats.
the tomb of St. Denis, the first of agony in the sculptures of A roller coaster trundles
bishop of Paris, who was behe- the mausoleum of Louis XII through mountain scenery.
aded in Montmartre in AD 250. and Anne de Bretagne. In “Adventureland,” visitors
According to legend, his decap- In 2011, the skull of Henry IV encounter characters and
itated figure, clutching his head, was buried here, having been tales from adventure fiction,
was seen here, and an abbey in the possession of a private including Caribbean pirates and
was erected to commemorate collector since the 1950s. the Swiss Family Robinson.
the martyred bishop. The basilica Small-town America at the
was the first church to be built in turn of the century is evoked in
the Gothic style of architecture. z Disneyland Paris “Main Street.” Authentic details
From as early as the 7th Marne-la-Vallée, Seine-et-Marne. include horse-drawn vehicles
century, St-Denis was a burial £ TGV from several major cities to and a traditional barber’s shop.
place for French rulers, and all Marne la Vallée/Chessy; also Eurostar Young children will enjoy
the queens of France were from London St. Pancras, Ebbsfleet & “Fantasyland,” devoted to Disney
crowned here. During the Ashford. W Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy. characters and tales, where they
Revolution, many tombs were @ from CDG & Orly airports. can fly with Peter Pan or search
desecrated and scattered, but Tel 08448 008 898. Open daily. the Alice in Wonderland maze
the best were stored, and now & 7 ∑ disneylandparis.com for the Queen of Hearts’ castle.
represent a fine collection of “Discoveryland” has futuristic
funerary art. Memorials include The theme park, which lies architecture and sophisticated
those of Henri II (died 1559) and 32 km (20 miles) east of Paris, technology. Here, visitors can
Catherine de’ Medici (died covers 60 ha (150 acres). It is choose to be miniaturized by a
hapless inventor or sent on a
thrilling space trip.
x Château de Vaux-
le-Vicomte
Maincy, Seine-et-Marne. £ W Melun,
then taxi or shuttle bus (Apr–mid-Nov:
Sat & Sun). Tel 01-64 14 41 90. Open
mid-Mar–mid-Nov: daily. & 7
∑ vaux-le-vicomte.com
frescoed ceiling of dancing periods. During the Revolution, reflected in the parquet floor.
nymphs and poetic sphinxes. the apartments were looted by The apartments of Napoleon I
La Grande Chambre Carrée is a mob, and remained bare until house his grandiose throne, in
decorated in Louis XIII style, with the 1800s, when Napoleon the former Chambre du Roi. The
paneled walls and an impressive refurbished the whole interior. complex of buildings also contains
triumphal frieze, evoking Rome. The Cour du Cheval Blanc, the Musée Napoléon, in which
Much of Vaux-le-Vicomte’s once a simple enclosed eight rooms recreate different
fame is due to landscape courtyard, was transformed scenes from the Emperor’s life.
gardener André Le Nôtre (1613– by Napoleon into the main Nearby is the Chapelle de
1700). At Vaux he perfected approach to the château. At la Sainte Trinité, designed for
the concept of the jardin à la one end is the Escalier du Fer- Henri II in 1550. The chapel
française: avenues framed by à-Cheval (1634), an imposing acquired its vaulted and
statues and box hedges, water horseshoe-shaped staircase. frescoed ceiling under Henri IV,
gardens with ornate pools, The interior suites showcase and was completed during the
and geometrical parterres the château’s history as a royal reign of Louis XIII.
“embroidered” with floral motifs. residence. The Galerie François I The gardens are also worth
has a superb collection of exploring. The Jardin Anglais
Renaissance art. The Salle de is a romantic “English” garden
c Château de
Bal, a Renaissance ballroom planted with cypresses and
Fontainebleau designed by Primaticcio (1552), exotic species. The Jardin de
Seine-et-Marne. £ Tel 01-60 71 features emblems of Henri II on Diana features a bronze fountain
50 70. Open Wed–Mon. & 8 7 the walnut-coffered ceiling and of Diana the Huntress.
∑ musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr
6 Mont-St-Michel
Shrouded by mist, the silhouette of Mont-St-Michel is one
of the most enchanting sights in France. Now linked to the
mainland by a causeway, the island of Mont-Tombe (Tomb on
the Hill) stands at the mouth of the Couesnon River, crowned
by a fortified abbey that almost doubles its height. Lying
strategically on the frontier between Normandy and Brittany,
Mont-St-Michel grew from a humble 8th-century oratory
to become a Benedictine monastery that had its greatest
influence in the 12th and 13th centuries. Pilgrims known as
miquelots journeyed from afar to honor the cult of St. Michael,
and the monastery was a renowned center of medieval learning.
After the French Revolution, the abbey became a prison. It is . Abbey Church
Four bays of the Romanesque
now a national monument that draws some 850,000 visitors a
nave in the abbey church survive.
year. A footbridge links the island to the mainland year-round Three were pulled down in 1776,
apart from a few hours each year when the tide is too high. creating the West Terrace.
Gautier’s Leap
Situated at the top of the
Inner Staircase, this terrace is
named after a prisoner who
leaped to his death here.
Entrance
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n Boulevard de l’Avancée
(02-33 60 14 30).
∑ ot-montsaintmichel.com
Abbey: Tel 02-33 89 80 00.
Open May–Aug: 9am–7pm; Sep–
Apr: 9:30am– 6pm. Night visits
during summer. Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Dec 25. & 5 12:15pm
Tue–Sat; 11:30am Sun. 8 =
∑ monuments-nationaux.fr
Transport
. Cloisters £ to Pontorson, then bus.
With their elegant English Purbeck marble columns,
the cloisters are a beautiful example of early
13th-century Anglo-Norman style.
. La Merveille
The main three-story monastic
complex, added to the church’s
north side in the early 13th century,
is known as La Merveille (The
Marvel). The Knights’ Room, on the
middle floor, has magnificent Gothic
rib-vaulting and finely
decorated capitals.
KEY
Environs
Just 7 km (4.5 miles) north
Tomb of François II in Cathédrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, Nantes of Poitiers, Futuroscope is
a theme park dedicated to
9 Nantes was the birthplace of Anne of state-of-the-art visual techno-
Brittany, who irrevocably joined logy, including the largest
Loire-Atlantique. * 270,000.
k £ @ n 9 Rue des Etats her fiercely independent duchy cinema screen in Europe.
(08-92 46 40 44). ( Tue–Sun. to France by her successive
∑ nantes-tourisme.com marriages to Charles VIII and E Futuroscope
Louis XII. A smaller royal lodging Jaunay-Clan. Tel 05-49 49 11 12. Open
The ancient port of Nantes was lies to the west of it. It was here, check website. Closed Jan–mid-Feb.
the ducal capital of Brittany for in Brittany’s Catholic bastion, that & 7 ∑ futuroscope.com
600 years, but is now considered Henri IV signed the 1598 Edict
a part of the Pays de la Loire. of Nantes, which granted all
Many of its fine 18th- and 19th- Protestants freedom of worship.
century buildings were built on The Musée des Beaux-Arts
profits from the slave trade. has a splendid array of paintings
Modern-day Nantes is a lively representing key movements
city, with good museums, chic from the 15th to the 20th century.
bars and stores, and open spaces. Packed with mementos, books,
The Cathédrale St-Pierre et and maps, the Musée Jules
St-Paul was begun in 1434, but Verne is dedicated to the life and
not completed until 1893. It is works of the writer (1828–1905).
notable for its sculpted Gothic
portals and Renaissance tomb E Musée des Beaux-Arts
of François II (1435–88), the last 10 Rue Georges Clemenceau. Tel 02-
duke of Brittany. 51 17 45 00. Open 10am–6pm Wed–
The Château des Ducs de Mon (to 8pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
Bretagne, now with a museum Easter Mon, May 1 & 8, Nov 1, Dec 25. The high-tech Kinémax cinema at
&7-=
documenting the town’s history, Futuroscope, near Poitiers
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11
FRANCE 177
e Château de Chenonceau
Chenonceau, stretching romantically across the Cher
River, is considered by many to be the loveliest of the
Loire châteaux. Surrounded by elegant formal gardens
and wooded grounds, this pure Renaissance building
began life as a modest manor and water mill. Over
the centuries, it was transformed by the wives and
mistresses of its successive owners into a palace
designed solely for pleasure. On July and August
evenings, the Promenade Nocturne allows visitors to
stroll about the gardens accompanied by classical music.
Formal Gardens
The current designs of the formal
gardens, created by Diane de
Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici,
date from the 19th century.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Indre-et-Loire. Tel 02-47 23 90 07.
Open daily; times vary – call for
details. & 8 (audio). 7
limited. 0 - =
∑ chenonceau.com
Transport
£ @ from Tours.
u Chartres Cathedral
According to art historian Emile Male, “Chartres is the mind of
the Middle Ages manifest.” Begun in 1020, the Romanesque
cathedral was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1194. Only
the north and south towers, south steeple, west portal, and
crypt remained. Inside, the sacred Veil of the Virgin relic was
the sole treasure to survive. Peasant and lord
alike labored to rebuild the church in just 25
years. Few alterations were made after 1250 Elongated
Statues
and, fortunately, Chartres was left unscathed These statues
by the Wars of Religion and the French on the Royal
Revolution. The result is an authentic Gothic Portal
cathedral. A program of renovation is ongoing represent Old
Testament
and may result in partial closures. figures.
Gothic Nave
As wide as the Romanesque crypt below
it – the largest in France – the Gothic nave
reaches a lofty height of 37 m (121 ft).
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Chartres’ Stained Glass
More than 150 stained-glass windows in the Practical Information
cathedral illustrate biblical stories and daily life Place de la Cathédrale, Chartres,
in the 13th century (bring binoculars if you Eure-et-Loir. Tel 02-37 21 75 02.
can). During both World Wars, the windows Open 8:30am– 7:30pm daily.
were dismantled piece by piece and removed 5 11:45am (in the crypt) & 6pm
for safety. Some windows were restored and Mon–Sat (9am Tue, Fri); 9:15
releaded in the 1970s, and in 2006 further (Latin) & 11am Sun. 7 8
restoration work commenced. Each window ∑ cathedrale-chartres.org
is divided into panels, which are usually read
Transport
from left to right, bottom to top (earth to £ @ from Paris.
heaven). The number of figures or abstract
shapes used is symbolic: three stands for
the Church; squares and the number four
symbolize the material world or the four
elements; circles represent eternal life.
. South Porch
Sculpture on the massive South
Porch (1197–1209) reflects a
selection of New Testament teaching.
182 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
awe for centuries, and every year the historic town of Beaune
hosts one of the most famous wine auctions in the world. a Lyon
Dijon is a splendid city, filled with the great palaces of the
Rhône. * 453,000. k 25 km
old Burgundian nobility. The majestic French Alps attract
(16 miles) E. £ @ n Place Belle-
visitors for winter sports, and, in summer, walking and a cour (04-72 77 69 69). ( daily.
host of watersports on the glittering mountain lakes. ∑ lyon-france.com
p Beaune
Côte D’Or. * 23,000. £ @ n
Boulevard Pepreuil (03-80 26 21 30).
_ Baroque Music (Jul).
d Grenoble
Isère. * 165,000. k £ @ n 14
Rue de la République (04-76 42 41 41).
( Tue–Sun.
s Annecy
Annecy. * 51,000. £ @ n 1 Rue
Jean Jaurès (04-50 45 00 33). ( Tue,
Fri–Sun. ∑ lac-annecy.com
. Notre-Dame
This magnificent 13th-century
Gothic church is best known for
its many gargoyles, the
RE
Jacquemart clock,
ECTU
and, on the north
wall, the sculpted
EF
owl (chouette), said
A PR
to bring good luck
O D E B E R T
when touched.
RUE QUENTIN
DE L
RUE
R U E
Train and
bus RUE MUSETTE
stations
RUE D
E LA L
IBERTE
PL DE LA
RG
IER
OU
LIBERATION
U B
RC
UB A
VA
Place de la Libération
R
Rue Verrerie
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This cobbled street in the
old merchants’ quarter is
Practical Information
lined with medieval half-
Côte d’Or. * 153,000.
timbered houses. Some,
n 11 rue des Forges (08-92 70
such as Nos. 8, 10, and 12,
05 58). ( Tue, Fri, Sat. _ Festival
have fine wood carvings.
de Musique (Jun); Fêtes de la
Vigne (Sep in odd-numbered
years). Musée des Beaux Arts: Tel
03-80 74 52 09. Open Wed–Mon.
Closed main public hols. & 7
Musée Magnin: Tel 03-80 67 11
10. Open Tue–Sun. Closed some
public hols. & 7 limited.
Transport
k 5 km (3 miles) SSE. £
@ Cours de la Gare.
. St-Michel
Begun in the 15th century and
RUE PROUD H
ROUSS EAU
V E
R CHAUDRO NNERIE
RIE
R U E
RUE VANNE
RUE JEANNIN
RUE LA
PL STE CHAPELLE
MONNO
YE
Musée Magnin
PL DU
R VAILLANT A collection of French and foreign
THEATRE 16th–19th-century paintings is
PL ST displayed among period furniture
RUE C
MICHEL
RUE BUFFON
HABOT CH
LEG
RUE
E
NY
0 meters 100
Key
0 yards 100
Suggested route
186 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
A2
typical of château architecture.
6
producers offer tours and have their own tasting Boulogne
•
8
A2
•
•
Dieppe •
A13 •
Caen ROUEN
Each of the 10 main wine-producing regions •
A1
has its own identity, based on grape varieties,
N1
N12 PARIS
8
4
58
A8
A2
climate, soil, and local culture. Around 40 • Brest
percent of all French wines are included in the RENNES A11
AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) •
Le Mans •
Loir
system, which guarantees their style and N1
65
Orléans • e
geographic origin, though not their quality. 10
•
Tours A
A85
• Loire Angers •
NANTES Bourges •
N1
A71
Bordeaux Wines 49
N1
37
A20
Bordeaux is the world’s largest La Rochelle
fine wine region, and, for its red •
r e
Angoulême
on
Pauillac gn
banks of the Gironde, Garonne, do
•
Margaux
r
•
Do
Château Margaux
Margaux. Tel 05-57 88 83 83.
∑ chateau-margaux.com
• Reims A4
•
NANCY
N7
•
•
Burgundy
A6
•
the blenders, using reserves
of older wines, creates Romanèche-Thorins.
Lyon
LYON
bubbles are produced by Maison Louis Latour
• Clermont- • fermenting yeast inside the Beaune. Tel 03-80 24 81 00.
Ferrand A48
A43
bottle – traditional methods are ∑ louislatour.com
St. Etienne
•
•
still used all over the region.
GRENOBLE In a process called remuage, Champagne
bottles are gradually rotated in Moët & Chandon
order to loosen the sediment,
N85
Rhône
NICE
•
A8 ∑ piper-heidsieck.com
Montpellier •
MARSEILLE Tattinger
Perpignan Reims. Tel 03-26 85 84 33.
• ∑ tattinger.com
Key
Alsace and Lorraine
Bordeaux
bell tower (1294) is much remote terrain and tenacious times. Biarritz, west of Bayonne,
imitated in southwest France. people have given heretics a has two casinos and three good
Toulouse became a center of hiding place and refugees an beaches, with the best surfing
Romanesque art in Europe due escape route. in Europe. A short distance south,
to its position on the route to The Parc National des St-Jean-de-Luz is a sleepy fish-
Santiago de Compostela (see Pyrénées extends 100 km ing village that explodes into life
p292). The largest Romanesque (62 miles) along the French– in summer. A main attraction is
basilica in Europe, the Basilique Spanish frontier. It boasts some the Eglise St-Jean Baptiste, where
de St-Sernin, was built in the of the most splendid alpine Louis XIV married the Infanta
11th–12th centuries to scenery in Europe, and is rich Maria Teresa of Spain in 1660.
accommodate pilgrims. The in flora and fauna. Within the A lively university town with
Musée des Augustins has park are 350 km (217 miles) elegant architecture, Pau is the
sculptures from the period, of footpaths. most interesting large town in
and incorporates cloisters from The region’s oldest the central Pyrenees. It has
a 14th-century Augustinian inhabitants, the Basque people, long been a favorite resort of
priory. Also featured are French, have maintained their own affluent foreigners.
Italian, and Flemish paintings. language and culture. Bayonne, Other places of interest
The 16th-century palace on the Atlantic coast, is the include the many mountain ski
known as the Hôtel d’Assézat capital of French Basque resorts, the shrine at Lourdes,
now houses the Fondation country, and has been an and the pretty hilltop town of
Bemberg, named after local art- important town since Roman St-Bertrand-de-Comminges.
lover Georges Bemberg, with
Renaissance art and 19th- and
20th-century French work.
The Miracle of Lourdes
In 1858, a 14-year-old girl named Bernadette Soubirous experienced
E Musée des Augustins 18 visions of the Virgin at the Grotte Massabielle near the town of
21 Rue de Metz. Tel 05-61 22 21 82. Lourdes. Despite being told to keep away from the cave by her
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, mother – and the local magistrate – she was guided to a spring with
Dec 25. & 8 7 ∑ augustins.org miraculous healing
powers. The church
endorsed the miracles
j Pyrenees in the 1860s, and since
then many people claim
~ Pau. £ @ Bayonne & Pau.
to have been cured
n Place des Basques, Bayonne
by the holy water. A
(08-20 42 64 64); Place Royale, huge city of shrines,
Pau (05-59 27 27 08). churches, and hospices
has since grown up
The mountains dominate life in around the spring, with
the French Pyrenees. A region in a dynamic tourist
many ways closer to Spain than Pilgrims at an open-air mass in Lourdes industry to match.
France, over the centuries its
190 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
Pope’s
Chamber
RUE TRUCHET
within walking distance of the central Place de la République.
R U E
RU E D U Q U A
D E
The Palais
Constantine was RUE DES
L
once a grand imperial RUE DU
, H O T E L
palace. Now only its D R FA N
TON
vast Roman baths
remain, dating from
the 4th century AD. PLACE DU
D E
RUE NICO
V I L L E
FORUM
Arles, seen from the opposite bank of the Rhône
AL
ISTR
FR M
NDE
R O TO
LA
RUE MOLIERE RUE DE
RES
U
CEA
EMEN
S CL
ARD GEORGE
BOULEV
. Eglise St-Trophime
This fine Romanesque church has an
ornate 12th-century portal carved with
saints and apostles.
Transport
k 25 km (15 miles) NW. £ @
PRIEURE
GRILL
. Théâtre Antique
Once a Roman theater, its stones
E
E
BR R U E
BARBES were later used for other
PTEM buildings. These last
AT R E S E
RUE A
RUE A
remaining columns
are called the
RISTIDE BR
“two widows.”
TA R D I
SUISSES
OU
RO
EU
ND–
ECH
IAND RUE DE LA
BASTI
RUE
LLE
OLA
PLAZA DE
EINE
E D
LA
RU
ORTE–DE–
O I T R E
C L
E P
U
RU
D
R U E
Cloisters of
St-Trophime
MO This sculpted capital
N is a fine example of
TE
E the Romanesque
VA
UB beauty of the cloisters.
B O U L E VA A N
R D D E S L I C E S
Amphitheater
The most impressive of the
surviving Roman monuments,
the amphitheater was the largest
of the Roman buildings in Gaul.
Slightly oval, it measures 136 m
(446 ft) by 107 m (351 ft) and
could seat 21,000. The floors
of some of the internal rooms
were decorated with mosaics,
the better to wash down after
bloody affrays. Today, bullfights,
0 meters 100 bull races, and other events are
0 yards 100 held regularly in the arena. Les Arènes, a Roman aphitheater
194 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
O Parc Ornithologique
du Pont-de-Gau
Pont-de-Gau. Tel 04-90 97 82 62.
Open daily. Closed Dec 25. & 7
E Musée Camarguais
Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue,
Mas du Pont de Rousty. Tel 04-90 97
10 82. Open Wed–Mon.
Closed public hols. & 7 Old harbor of Marseille, looking towards the Quai de Rive Neuve
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11
FRANCE 195
Croutons
Aïoli is a sauce made of egg Ratatouille is a stew of onions, Salade Niçoise comes in many
yolks, garlic, and olive oil. It is eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, versions, but always includes
served with salt cod, boiled and peppers, cooked in olive oil lettuce, green beans, tomatoes,
eggs, snails, or raw vegetables. and garlic. black olives, eggs, and anchovies.
196 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
m Nice
Alpes-Maritimes. * 346,000. k g
£ @ n 5 Promenade des Anglais
(08-92 70 74 07). ( Tue–Sun. _
Carnival (Feb). ∑ nicetourisme.com
call Sapeurs Pompiers (the fire You will be asked to tap in your making long-distance calls
department), which offers a first- PIN code (code confidentiel) on a from hotels.
aid and ambulance service. This small keypad. La Poste (the Post Office)
is particularly true in rural areas. You can also use credit cards used to be called the P.T.T.
Casualty departments (service in most banks to withdraw cash; (postes, télégraphes, téléphones),
des urgences) in public hospitals either from an ATM (automatic and some road signs still give
can deal with most medical teller machine), which should directions to the P.T.T. The
problems. Your consulate have an English-language postal service in France is
should be able to provide you option, or from a cash desk. Most fast and reliable. However, it
with details of an English- banks will cash traveler’s checks. is not cheap, especially when
speaking doctor in the area. Opening hours are usually Mon– sending a parcel abroad.
Pharmacists can also suggest Fri, 9am–4:30 or 5:15pm, with At La Poste, postage stamps
treatments for many health some banks also open on (timbres) are sold singly or in
problems. Look for the green- Saturday morning. Many close carnets of seven or ten. They
cross sign outside pharmacies. for lunch, and many, especially in are also sold at tabacs, although
the south, are closed on Monday. you need to go to the post office
You can also exchange money for international stamps. At
Banking and Currency at bureaux de change offices, post offices, you can also use
The French unit of currency which operate longer hours telephone directories (annuaires),
is the euro (see p23). than banks. Exchange rates and buy phonecards, cash or buy
Most credit cards are widely commission charges can vary. money orders (mandats), and
accepted in France, but, make international calls.
because of the high com- Post offices usually open from
missions charged, American Communications 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, often with
Express is often not. The most Payphones in France are being a break for lunch, and 9am–
commonly used credit card is phased out, and they will likely noon on Saturdays. Mail boxes
Carte Bleue/Visa. Eurocard/ be removed completely within are yellow, and often have
MasterCard (Access in UK) is also the next few years. Those that separate slots for the town you
often accepted. Credit cards still remain take mainly plastic are in, the département, and
issued in France contain a telephone cards (télécartes)– other destinations (autres
microchip and are called “smart available from tobacconists destinations).
cards,” but some machines can (tabacs) and newsagents – Although the Internet is widely
also read cards with magnetic and credit cards. For local calls, used in France, Internet cafés
strips. If you find your a unit lasts up to six minutes. have not proved to be successful.
conventional card cannot be Some post offices have tele- However, there are usually a few
read in the smart-card slot, get phone booths (cabines) where in the major cities and resorts.
the cashier to swipe the card you can call first and pay after- In Paris, there are free Wi-Fi
through the magnetic reader. wards. This is cheaper than spots in many metro stations.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Tourist UK Emergency
Information Lincoln House, Numbers
Australia 300 High Holborn,
4 Rue Jean Rey, 75015 Paris Convention & London WC1V 7JH. Ambulance (SAMU)
Paris. Tel 01-40 59 33 00. Tel 020-7061 6600. Tel 15 or 18 (Sapeurs
Visitors Bureau
∑ france.embassy. US Pompiers).
gov.au Headquarters
825 Third Ave,
25–27 Rue des Pyramides, Fire (Sapeurs
Canada New York, NY 10022.
75001 Paris. Tel 212-838 7800. Pompiers)
35 Ave Montaigne, 75008
Tel 01495-24263. Tel 18 or 112.
Paris. Tel 01-44 43 29 00.
∑ canadainter ∑ en.parisinfo.com Facilities for the Police and
national.gc.ca/france Australia
Disabled Gendarmerie
UK French Tourist Bureau, Association des Tel 17.
Consulate: 18 bis Rue Level 22, 25 Bligh Street, Paralysés de France
d’Anjou, 75008 Paris. 17 Bld August Blanqui, Banking
Sydney, NSW 2000.
Tel 01-44 51 31 00. ∑ 75013 Paris.
amb-grandebretagne.fr
Tel 612-9321 5244.
Tel 01-45 89 40 57.
American Express
Canada ∑ apf.asso.fr 11 Rue Scribe,
US 75009 Paris.
1800 Ave McGill College,
2 Ave Gabriel, 75008 Paris. GIHP Tel 01-47 77 70 00.
Tel 01-43 12 22 22. Suite 1010, Montréal, 61 fbg Poissonnière,
∑ france.usembassy. Québec H3A 3J6. 75009 Paris. Travelex
gov Tel 288-2026. Tel 01-43 95 66 36. Tel 0800 908 330.
200 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
are a number of special tickets à péage), which can be quite All the main international
available, including ones for over expensive, especially over long car-rental companies operate
60s, families, and under 26s. distances. There are some short in France. It is worth ringing
There are also special tickets for sections which are free, around before you leave for
those doing a lot of train travel. however, usually close to major France as there are many special
Automatic ticket and centers. Tolls can be paid with offers for rentals booked and
reservation machines (billetterie either credit cards or cash. prepaid in the UK or US. Good
automatique) are found at main Where only small sums are deals are often available from
stations. They take credit cards involved, you throw coins into a Autos Abroad, brokers who use
or coins. You can also check large receptacle and the change cars owned by other car-rental
train times, fares, and make is given automatically. companies. Booking in this way
reservations by phoning SNCF. Speed limits in France are can be very cost effective.
Both reservations and tickets shown in km/h. The limit in all
must be validated in one of the towns, unless shown otherwise,
orange composteur machines is 50 km/h (30 mph). On major Buses
near the platforms before roads, higher limits are usually Long-distance buses generally
boarding the train. shown. On the autoroutes, the operate only where there is not
usual limit is 130 km/h (80 mph), a good train service in operation
but this is reduced to 110 km/h (for example, between Geneva
Traveling by Road (70 mph) when it is raining. and Nice). SNCF (the state railway)
France has one of the densest On-the-spot fines may be operates some bus routes and
road networks in Europe, with demanded for speeding issues regional TER (Transports
modern motorways which allow offences, and there are severe Express Régionaux) timetables
quick and easy access to all penalties for drink-driving. and tickets. Eurolines serves a
parts of the country. However, Sunday is usually a good time wider range of destinations
you can save money on tolls to travel in France, as there within France, as well as
and explore France in a more are very few trucks on the road. providing services to hundreds
leisurely way by using some of Try to avoid traveling at the of major cities across Europe.
the other high-quality roads, French holiday-rush periods, They also offer excursions and
such as RN (route nationale) and known as the grands départs. arrange accommodations.
D (départementale) routes. The worst times are weekends There are also many local
Most motorways in France in July, and at the beginning and buses, which run from the
have a toll system (autoroutes end of August. town’s Gare Routière.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Flybe Norfolkline Voyages-SNCF
Tel 0871-700 2000 (UK). Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK). 193 Piccadilly,
Air Canada London W1J 9EU.
∑ flybe.com ∑ norfolkline.com
Tel 08-26 88 08 81. Tel 0844-848 5848.
Tel 888-247 2262 (Can). Hop P&O Ferries
∑ aircanada.com Tel 08-25 30 22 22. Tel 08716-64 21 21 (UK). Car Rental
∑ hop.fr ∑ poferries.com
Air France Autos Abroad
Tel 3654. Qantas Transmanche Ferries Tel 0844-826 6536 (UK).
Tel 0871-663 3777 (UK). Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). Tel 0825 304 304. ∑ autosabroad.com
Tel 800-237 2747 (US). Tel 13 13 13 (Aus). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
∑ airfrance.com ∑ qantas.com.au ∑ transmache.co.uk Avis
Tel 08-21 23 07 60.
American Airlines Ryanair Tel 0844-581 0147 (UK).
Tel 08-26 46 09 50. Tel 08-92-56-21-50. Channel Tunnel
∑ avis.fr
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ ryanair.com Eurostar
∑ aa.com
Europcar
United Airlines Tel 01-70 70 60 88.
Tel 08-25 35 83 58.
British Airways Tel 0845-8444 777 (UK). Tel 08432-186 186 (UK). Tel 0871-384 1087 (UK).
Tel 08-25 82 54 00. Tel 800-864 8331 (US). ∑ eurostar.com ∑ europcar.com
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). ∑ united.com
Eurotunnel Hertz
∑ britishairways.com Tel 810-630 304.
Ferry Services Tel 0825-86 18 61.
Delta Air Lines Tel 0870-535 3535 (UK). Tel 0843-309 3099 (UK).
Tel 08-92-70-26-09. Brittany Ferries ∑ eurotunnel.com ∑ hertz.com
Tel 800-221 12 12 (US). Tel 08-25 82 88 28.
∑ delta.com Tel 0871-244 0744 (UK). Rail Travel Buses
∑ brittanyferries.com
easyJet SNCF, Paris Eurolines
Tel 0843-116 0021 (UK). LD Lines Tel 3635. Tel 08-92 89 90 91.
∑ easyjet.com Tel 0844-576 8836 (UK). ∑ voyages-sncf.com ∑ eurolines.fr
202 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
Couture, and most of these are and prices will be more within Saturday to Monday). To avoid
concentrated on the Right Bank most people’s budgets. paying duty, you will need a
around Rue du Faubourg-St- Printemps, for example, is huge, certificate of authenticity when
Honoré and Avenue Montaigne. with separate buildings for exporting objets d’art over 20
Famous names include Yves menswear, household goods, years old and any goods over a
Saint Laurent, Chanel, Guy and womens’ and children’s century old that are worth more
Laroche, Gucci, Nina Ricci, and clothes. The beauty department, than €150,000. Seek professional
Christian Dior. Other top with its vast perfume selection, is advice and declare them at
designers include Hermès and definitely worth a visit. Le Bon customs if in doubt.
Giorgio Armani. Marché, on the Left Bank, was
Men don’t have the luxury the first department store in
of haute couture dressing: their Paris, and is the most chic, with Tax-Free Shopping
choice is limited to ready-to- an excellent food hall. Galeries Visitors resident outside the
wear, but most of the big-name Lafayette has a wide range of European Union can reclaim the
womenswear designers also clothes at all price levels. There sales tax, TVA, on French goods
produce a range for men. A are also homewares, and the if they spend more than €305 in
good example is Gianni Versace, branch in Boulevard Haussmann one shop, get a détaxe receipt,
with his classic Italian clothes for has Paris’s biggest souvenir shop. and take the goods out of the
men. On the Right Bank, the country within six months. The
household-name designers form should be handed in at
include Giorgio Armani, the Art and Antiques customs when leaving the
stylish Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint You can buy fabulous art and country, and the reimbursement
Laurent, and Lanvin, who is antiques from stores, galleries, will be sent to you.
particularly popular for his and flea-markets all over France. Exceptions for détaxe rebates
beautifully made leather The best places to visit in Paris are food and drink, medicines,
accessories. If time is short and are Le Louvre des Antiquaires, tobacco, cars, and motorbikes.
you want to make all your a huge building containing More information is available
purchases under one roof, try the around 250 antique dealers, and from the Centre des Renseign-
grands magasins. These stores the famous Marché aux Puces ements des Douanes, but this is
offer a wide choice of fashions, de St-Ouen flea market (open usually in French.
DIRECTORY
Clothing Guy Laroche 32 Rue Faubourg Printemps
35 Rue François 1er, St. Honoré, 64 Bld Haussman,
Chanel 75009 Paris.
75008 Paris. 75008 Paris
42 Ave Montaigne, Tel 01-42 82 50 00.
Tel 01-40 69 68 00. (men’s fashion).
75008 Paris.
Tel 01-47 23 74 12. Hermès Tel 01-53 05 80 80. Art and Antiques
5 Bld de la Croisette, 24 Rue du Faubourg 65 Bld Croisette,
06400 Cannes. St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. 06400 Cannes.
Le Louvre des
Tel 04-93 38 55 05. Tel 01-40 17 47 17. Antiquaires
Tel 04-93 46 99 17.
2 Place du Palais-Royal,
Christian Dior Lanvin 75001 Paris.
30 Ave Montaigne, 22 Rue de Faubourg
Department Tel 01-42 97 27 27.
75008 Paris. St-Honoré, Stores
Tel 01-40 73 73 73. Marché aux Puces
75008 Paris.
38 Bld de la Croisette, Le Bon Marché de St-Ouen
Tel 01-44 71 33 33.
06400 Cannes. 24 Rue de Sèvres, Av Porte de Clignancourt,
Tel 04-92 98 98 00. Nina Ricci 75007 Paris. 75018 Paris.
39 Ave Montaigne, Tel 01-40 11 77 63.
Gianni Versace Tel 01-44 39 80 00.
75008 Paris.
45 Ave Montaigne, Tax-free
Tel 01-83 97 72 12. Galeries Lafayette
75008 Paris. Shopping
Tel 01-47 42 88 02. 40 Bld Haussmann,
Pierre Cardin
9 Rue Duras, 75009 Paris. Centre des
Giorgio Armani
75008 Paris. Tel 01-42 82 34 56. Renseignements
2 Ave Montaigne,
Tel 01-42 66 14 92. 11 Rue Ste Catherine, des Douanes
75008 Paris.
Direction Générale,
Tel 01-56 89 01 19. 33000 Bordeaux.
Yves Saint Laurent 11 Rue des Deux
6 Place St. Sulpice, Tel 05-56 90 92 71.
Gucci Communes,
60 Ave Montaigne, 75006 Paris 6 Rue Maréchal Foch, 93558 Montreuil.
75008 Paris. (women’s fashion). 06400 Cannes. Tel 08-11 20 44 44.
Tel 01-56 69 80 80. Tel 01-43 29 43 00. Tel 04-97 06 25 00. ∑ douane-gouv.fr
204 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
Bank, the area around Odéon- and shorter Petites Randonneés from a selection of brochures.
St-Germain-des-Prés has taken cover France. The routes are Vacations are based on subjects
over from the Latin Quarter as clearly way marked, and vary in such as the French language,
the city’s heartland for art and difficulty, including long pilgrim wine appreciation, and cooking,
repertory movie theaters. routes, alpine crossings, and as well as craft activities and
tracks through national parks. organized nature trips.
Some routes are open to
Outdoor Activities mountain bikes and horses.
A country as richly diverse in The mountains offer excellent Spectator Sport
culture and geography as skiing and mountaineering. The The main sporting action in
France offers an amazing variety Atlantic coast around Biarritz France revolves largely around
of sport and leisure activities. offers some of the best surfing football, rugby, tennis, and horse
Information on current activities and windsurfing in Europe. racing. There are various stadia
in a particular region is available Sailing and waterskiing are and circuits all over the country;
from the tourist offices listed popular across France, and the best are near major cities,
for each town in this guide. swimming facilities are particularly Paris. Here, the Stade
Golf is popular in France, generally good, although de France and the Palais Omni-
especially along the north and beaches in the south can be sports de Paris-Bercy host all
south coasts and in Aquitaine. crowded in August. the major events. Parc des
You will need to take your Princes is home to the top Paris
handicap certificate with you if soccer team, Paris St-Germain.
you want to play. Tennis is also a Specialist Vacations Cycling is also a very popular
favorite sport, and there are French government Tourist sport in France, and there is
courts to rent in almost every Offices (see p199) have extensive racing action across the country.
town. More than 30,000 km information on travel companies The most famous event is the
(19,000 miles) of Grandes offering special-interest annual Tour de France, held
Randonneés (long-distance tracks) vacations. Send off or download during July.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Théâtre National Le Petit Journal Le Social Club
de la Colline St-Michel 142 Rue Montmartre,
FNAC 15 Rue Malte-Brun, 75020 71 Bld St-Michel, 75005 75002 Paris.
Forum Les Halles, Paris. Tel 01-44 62 52 52. Paris. Tel 01-43 26 28 59. Tel 01-40 28 05 55.
1 Rue Pierre Lescot,
Salle Pleyel Cinema
75001 Paris. Music
252 Rue du Faubourg
Tel 08-25 02 00 20.
Cité de la Musique St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. La Géode
Kiosque Théâtre 221 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Tel 01-42 56 13 13. 26 Ave Corentin-Cariou,
Place de la Madeleine, 75019 Paris. 75019 Paris.
Zénith
75008 Paris. Tel 01-44 84 44 84. Tel 01-40 05 79 99.
211 Ave Jean-Jaurès,
∑ kiosquetheatre.com
New Morning 75019 Paris. Le Grand Rex
∑ zenith-paris.com 1 Bld Poissonnière,
Theater 7–9 Rue des Petites-
75002 Paris.
Ecuries, 75010 Paris.
Tel 01-45 23 51 41. Clubs and Cabaret Tel 01-45 08 93 89.
Comédie des
Champs-Elysées Balajo Max Linder
Olympia
9 Rue de Lappe, 75011 Panorama
15 Ave Montaigne, 28 Bld des Capucines,
Paris. Tel 01-47 00 07 87. 24 Bld Poissonnière,
75008 Paris. 75009 Paris.
75009 Paris.
Tel 01-53 23 99 19. Tel 08-92 68 33 68. Folies-Bergère Tel 01-48 24 00 47.
Comédie Française Opéra Comique 32 Rue Richer, 75009 Paris.
1 Pl Colette, (Salle Favart) 5 Rue Favart, Tel 08-92 68 16 50. Spectator Sport
75001 Paris. 75002 Paris. La Java Palais Omnisports
Tel 08-25 10 16 80. Tel 01-42 44 45 40. 105 Rue du Faubourg- de Paris-Bercy
Palais Royal Opéra de Paris du-Temple, 75010 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy, 75012
38 Rue Montpensier, Bastille Tel 01-42 02 20 52. Paris. Tel 01-40 02 60 60.
75001 Paris. 120 Rue de Lyon, Lido Parc des Princes
Tel 01-42 97 40 00. 75012 Paris. 116 bis Ave Champs- 24 Rue du Commandant-
Tel 01-40 01 17 89. Elysées, 75008 Paris. Guilbaud, 75016 Paris.
Théâtre National
Tel 01-40 76 56 10. Tel 01-47 43 71 71.
de Chaillot Palais Omnisports
Place du Trocadéro, de Paris-Bercy Moulin Rouge Stade de France
75016 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy 75012. 82 Bld de Clichy, 75018 La Plaine St-Denis, 93210
Tel 01-53 65 30 00. Tel 08-92-39 04 90. Paris. Tel 01-53 09 82 82. Paris. Tel 08-92 70 09 00.
206 FRANCE
Where to Stay
Bright accommodations in a Price Guide
Paris centrally located hotel. Free Wi-Fi. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
Mayet €€ BEAUBOURG: Hôtel de la € under €100
Boutique Bretonnerie €€ €€ €100 to €250
€€€ over €250
3 Rue Mayet, 75006 Boutique Map E3
Tel 01-47 83 21 35 22 Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie,
∑ mayet.com 75004 LEFT BANK: Résidence
Painted tables and abstract murals Tel 01-48 87 77 63 Le Prince Regent €€€
jazz up the interior of this hotel. ∑ hotelbretonnerie.com Luxury
Exposed beams, stone vaulting, 28 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: and rich fabrics give this hotel Tel 01-56 24 19 21
Four Seasons George V €€€ a distinctly medieval flavor. ∑ leprinceregent.com
Luxury Map B2 Here you’ll find gracefully
31 Avenue George V, 75008 decorated rooms, spacious
Tel 01-49 52 71 00 DK Choice apartments, and a hammam.
∑ fourseasons.com ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
This iconic establishment offers BEAUBOURG: Le Pavillon TUILERIES & OPÉRA: Chopin €
its guests modern comforts in de la Reine €€€ Modern
an opulent setting. Luxury Map F4 46 Passage Jouffroy, 75009
28 Place des Vosges, 75003 Tel 01-47 70 58 10
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-40 29 19 19 ∑ hotelchopin.fr
BEAUBOURG: Britannique €€ ∑ pavillon-de-la-reine.com This simple hotel stands at the end
Boutique Map E3 Overlooking the city’s most of a 19th-century glass-roofed
20 Avenue Victoria, 75001 beautiful square, Le Pavillon arcade, close to city attractions.
Tel 01-42 33 74 59 has an unrivaled setting. The
∑ hotel-britannique.fr 17th-century mansion has been TUILERIES & OPERA:
Maritime details adorn this refurbished in elegant country- Brighton €€€
smart hotel with a British feel. house style, with romantic Boutique Map D3
bedrooms and a lovely spa. 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-47 03 61 61
BEAUBOURG: Caron de ∑ paris-hotel-brighton.com
Beaumarchais €€ Enjoy breathtaking views of
Boutique Map E3 DK Choice the Tuileries amid antique
12 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & furnishings and chandeliers.
Tel 01-42 72 34 12 BEAUBOURG:
∑ carondebeaumarchais.com Le Petit Moulin €€€
This is a tastefully decorated hotel Romantic
with 18th-century inspired decor 29–31 Rue du Poitou, 75003 Northern France
as seen in the color schemes and Tel 01-42 74 10 10
elegant upholstered furniture. ∑ hotelpetitmoulinparis.com MONT-ST-MICHEL:
The oldest boulangerie (bakery) Terrasses Poulard €€
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & in Paris now houses this wacky Boutique
BEAUBOURG: Hospitel €€ hotel. Rooms reflect the designer BP 18, 50170
Modern Map E4 Christian Lacroix’s love of Tel 02-33 89 02 02
1 Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 75004 opulence, and are romantic with ∑ terrasses-poulard.fr
Tel 01-44 32 01 00 audacious murals. There is free This old stone building offers
∑ hotel-hospitel.fr Wi-Fi, access for the disabled, stunning views of the bay and
and private parking. the abbey. Small, clean rooms.
ST-MALO:
La Maison Armateurs €
Boutique
6 Grand Rue, 35400
Tel 02-99 40 87 70
∑ maisondesarmateurs.com
An old ship-owners’ house in the
old town is now a chic hotel with
bright and modern rooms.
STRASBOURG: Le Chut €€
Budget
4 Rue du Bain aux Plantes, 67000
Tel 03-88 32 05 06
∑ hote-strasbourg.fr
Offers a classy Zen atmosphere
and sleek rooms. Great restaurant.
Exposed beams in one of the vast suites at the Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Onzain
The Loire Valley
TOURS: Hôtel l’Adresse € LYON: Hôtel des Artistes €€
CHARTRES: Modern Modern
Le Grand Monarque € 12 Rue de la Rôtisserie, 37000 8 Rue Gaspard-André, 69002
Boutique Tel 02-47 20 85 76 Tel 04-78 42 04 88
22 Place des Epars, 28005 ∑ hotel-ladresse.com ∑ hotel-des-artistes.fr
Tel 02-37 18 15 15 This modern hotel is concealed This delightful hotel, with
∑ bw-grand-monarque.com behind the facade of an 18th- pleasant, bright, and airy rooms,
A converted 16th-century staging century townhouse. is a favorite haunt of actors.
post with spacious rooms, a bistro,
fine dining, and a luxury spa. LYON: Cour des Loges €€€
Luxury
CHENONCEAUX: Burgundy and the 6 Rue du Boeuf, 69005
Hôtel du Bon Laboureur
Luxury
€€ French Alps Tel 04-72 77 44 44
∑ courdesloges.com
6 Rue de Dr. Bretonneau, 37150 ANNECY: The elegant rooms here blend
Tel 02-47 23 90 02 Hôtel Palais de l’Isle €€ Renaissance-period features
∑ bonlaboureur.com Historic and contemporary decor.
Stay in neat rooms housed in 13 Rue Perrière, 74000
18th-century stone dwellings. Tel 04-50 45 86 87 POLIGNY: Hostellerie des
∑ palaisannecy.com Monts de Vaux €€
CHINON: Hôtel Diderot € Renovated 18th-century house Luxury
Budget on the Thouin Canal. Comfortable Monts Vaux, 39800
4 Rue Buffon, 37500 rooms and modern decor. Tel 03-84 37 12 50
Tel 02-47 93 18 87 ∑ hostellerie.com
∑ hoteldiderot.com CHAMBERY: A family-run hotel in a coaching
Elegant creeper-clad hotel on a Hôtel des Princes € inn, with rooms decorated in a
quiet street near the city center. Boutique classic bourgeois style.
4 Rue de Boigne, 73000
Tel 04-79 33 45 36
DK Choice ∑ hoteldesprinces.eu
ONZAIN: Domaine des This quiet and comfortable hotel Southwest France
Hauts de Loire €€€ near the Fontaine des Eléphants
Luxury offers friendly service. BIARRITZ:
79 Rue Gilbert Navard, 41150 Hôtel du Palais €€€
Tel 02-54 20 72 57 DIJON: Le Jacquemart € Luxury
∑ domainehautsloire.com Historic 1 Ave de l’Impératrice, 64200
This ivy-clad hunting lodge 32 Rue Verrerie, 21000 Tel 05-59 41 64 00
retains its grandeur with lavish Tel 03-80 60 09 60 ∑ hotel-du-palais.com
guest rooms. Those in the old ∑ hotel-lejacquemart.fr Famous palatial hotel in a superb
coach house are the most Rooms come in all shapes and beach location, with an opulent
opulent. The chef prepares sizes at this hotel in a centrally spa, pool, and other facilities.
cutting-edge food, served located 17th-century building.
with superb local wines. BORDEAUX:
GRENOBLE: La Maison du Lierre €€
Splendid Hôtel € Boutique
ORLEANS: Hôtel de l’Abeille €€ Value 57 Rue Huguerie, 33000
Boutique 22 Rue Thiers, 38000 Tel 05-56 51 92 71
64 Rue Alsace Lorraine, 45000 Tel 04-76 46 33 12 ∑ hotel-maisondulierre-
Tel 02-38 53 54 87 ∑ splendid-hotel.com bordeaux.com
∑ hoteldelabeille.com Smart hotel with a walled garden. Charming hotel in a historic house
Grand Neoclassical building with Good amenities and rooms that with a pretty garden. Breakfast is
old-style rooms. Rooftop terrace. range from classic to modern. served in the inner courtyard.
208 FRANCE
MOUSTIERS-STE-MARIE:
DK Choice La Bastide de Moustiers €€€
ARLES: L’Hôtel Historic
Particulier à Arles €€€ Chemin de Quinson, 04360
Historic Tel 04-92 70 47 47
4 Rue de la Monnaie, 13200 ∑ bastide-moustiers.com
Tel 04-90 52 51 40 This 17th-century building has
∑ hotel-particulier.com gardens, mountain views, and a
Step into a world of rich superb Alain Ducasse restaurant.
elegance and opulent living
Abstract art and chocolate decor at the at this historic hotel. The walled NICE: Hôtel Windsor €€
Hôtel Bristol, Pau garden, swimming pool, and Boutique
an ultra-sophisticated spa 11 Rue Dalpozzo, 06000
PAU: Hôtel Bristol €€ and hammam all make for Tel 04-93 88 59 35
Room with a view a dreamy stay. Superb service. ∑ hotelwindsornice.com
3 Rue Gambetta, 64000 Stay in individually decorated
Tel 05-59 27 72 98 rooms. There is also a pool within
∑ hotelbristol-pau.com AVIGNON: Hôtel Bristol € an exotic garden.
Traditional, centrally located hotel Modern
with good facilities. Some rooms 44 Cours Jean Jaurès, 84000 NICE: Le Negresco €€€
have balconies with fine views. Tel 04-90 16 48 48 Luxury
∑ bristol-avignon.com 37 Promenade des Anglais 06000
PAUILLAC: A classy hotel with refined rooms, Tel 04-93 16 64 00
Château Cordeillan-Bages €€ including several for families. Pet- ∑ hotel-negresco-nice.com
Luxury friendly. Convenient location. This renowned vintage hotel was
Route des Châteaux, 33250 designed by Henri Negrescu. It
Tel 05-56 59 24 24 AVIGNON: La Mirande €€€ has superb works of art, flawless
∑ cordeillanbages.com Luxury service, and top-notch facilities.
Magnificent 17th-century château 4 Place de la Mirande, 84000
with splendid gardens, set in the Tel 04-90 14 20 20 NIMES: Imperator-Concorde €€
heart of the Médoc vineyards. ∑ la-mirande.fr Luxury
Closed November to mid-March. This cardinal’s mansion by the Quai de la Fontaine, 30000
Papal Palace has been sensitively Tel 04-66 21 90 30
POITIERS: Les Cours du Clain € renovated in 18th-century style. ∑ hotel-imperator.com
Historic Built in 1929, the Concorde is
117 Chemin de la Grotte à Calvin, CANNES: Carlton a favorite of celebrities, with a
86000 InterContinental €€€ lovely garden featuring cedar
Tel 06-10 16 09 55 Luxury and palm trees.
∑ lescoursduclain-poitiers.com 58 la Croisette, 06400
A beautiful B&B set in a historic Tel 04-93 06 40 06
house with a garden and pool. ∑ intercontinental-carlton- DK Choice
cannes.com ST-TROPEZ: Pastis Hôtel
TOULOUSE: Popular with celebrities, this Art St-Tropez €€€
Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra €€ Deco establishment has breath- Boutique
Historic taking suites and a private beach. 6 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 83990
1 Place du Capitole, 31000 Tel 04-98 12 56 50
Tel 05-61 21 40 00 CARCASSONNE: ∑ pastis-st-tropez.com
∑ grand-hotel-opera.com Hôtel de la Cité €€ This ideal intimate hideaway is
Housed in a former 17th-century Luxury filled with 20th-century art. The
convent, this elegant hotel is set Place August-Pierre Pont, 11000 heated garden pool is idyllic,
in the heart of the city. Tel 04-68 71 98 71 surrounded by centuries-old
∑ hoteldelacite.com palm trees – the perfect spot
Expect period rooms, a glorious for breakfast or a nightcap.
pool, and gardens, plus three
The South of France eateries with immaculate service.
VILLEFRANCHE SUR MER:
AIX-EN-PROVENCE: MARSEILLE: Hotel Hôtel Welcome €€
Hôtel Cézanne €€ Résidence du Vieux Port €€ Boutique
Boutique Boutique 1 Quai Amiral Courbet, 06230
40 Avenue Victor Hugo, 13100 18 Quai du Port, 13002 Tel 04-93 76 27 62
Tel 04-42 91 11 11 Tel 04-91 91 91 22 ∑ welcomehotel.com
∑ cezanne.hotelaix.com ∑ hotel-residence-marseille.com Artist Jean Cocteau’s favorite hotel,
Arty, vibrant decor by Charles Enjoy color-drenched 1950s- the Welcome is full of period
Montemarco at this chic hotel. style decor and fabulous views. charm. Also has a great wine bar.
Key to Price Guide see page 206
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 209
Northern France
CARNAC: Le Calypso €€
Seafood
158 Rue du Pô, 56340
Tel 02-97 52 06 14 Closed Sun
dinner (except Jul & Aug); Mon
Le Calypso is a popular seafood
restaurant overlooking the oyster
Elegance and simplicity at L’Arpège, Paris beds of Anse du Pô.
210 FRANCE
DK Choice
LILLE: A l’Huitrière €€€
Seafood
3 Rue des Chats Bossus, 59800
Tel 03-20 55 43 41 Closed Sun
dinner
More than just a restaurant,
A l’Huitrière is also an oyster bar
and a seafood boutique where
you can buy the day’s catch. Try
the vinaigrette salad of smoked
eel with foie gras, pan-fried
lobster with tarragon, crayfish,
or the signature turbot.
The dining room at the Café du Palais in Reims, featuring a stunning stained-glass roof
DK Choice
REIMS: Café du Palais €€ CHARTRES: Le Grand TOURS: La Roche Le Roy €€€
Traditional French Monarque, Le Georges €€€ Fine Dining
14 Place Myron Herrick, 51100 Fine Dining 55 Rue de St-Avertin, 37000
Tel 03-26 47 52 54 Closed Sun & 22 Place des Epars, 28000 Tel 02-47 27 22 00 Closed Sun & Mon
Mon Tel 02-37 18 15 15 Closed Sun dinner; This Michelin-starred restaurant
A much-loved family-run Mon serves classic top-notch French
brasserie with excellent main Sample excellent classic French cuisine and fine wines.
dishes, great desserts, and a fine cuisine at this gourmet restaurant,
selection of champagnes. The accompanied by grand cru wines.
decor consists of an Aladdin’s
cave of theatrical memorabilia
DK Choice Burgundy and the
under a stained-glass roof. French Alps
NANTES: L’U.Ni €€€
Modern French ANNECY: Le Belvédère €€€
ROUEN: Le 37 €€ 36 Rue Fouré Modern French
Bistro Tel 02-40 75 53 05 Closed Mon 7 Chemin Belvédère, 74000
37 Rue St-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, & Tue Tel 04-50 45 04 90Closed Sun dinner;
76000 Savvy young chef Nicolas Guiet Tue & Wed; Oct–May
Tel 02-35 70 56 65 Closed Sun & Mon heads this restaurant, which Lovely lake views and appetizing
Attractive city-center bistro has created ripples in gourmet contemporary food. Try the
serving modern cuisine. Find the circles. L’U.Ni’s signature dishes vegetable and flower cheesecake
daily specials on the blackboard. include barely cooked brill with served with a watercress coulis.
baby turnips and spinach, and
ST-MALO: Le Chalut €€€ desserts such as carrot and BEAUNE:
Seafood orange cake accompanied by Le Bistro de L’Hôtel €€€
8 Rue de la Corne de Cerf, 35400 a carrot and honey mousse. Bistro
Tel 02-99 56 71 58 Closed Mon & Tue 3 Rue Samuel Legay, 21200
Fishing-themed decor provides Tel 03-80 25 94 10 Closed lunch; Sun
the perfect ambience at this ORLÉANS: La Dariole €€ This chic bistro uses high-quality
Michelin-starred seafood eatery. Traditional French ingredients sourced from local
25 Rue Etienne Dolet, 45000 suppliers. It also boasts an
STRASBOURG: Tel 02-38 77 26 67 Closed Sat & Sun; excellent selection of wines.
Winstub Zuem Strissel €€ Mon, Wed & Thu: dinner
Regional A 15th-century half-timbered CHABLIS: Terroir €€
5 Place de la Grande Boucherie, 67000 building houses this little Regional
Tel 03-88 32 14 73 restaurant and tearoom. 16 Rue Auxerroise, 89800
The oldest eatery in Alsace serves Tel 03-86 18 98 52 Closed Sun
baeckeoffe (a mutton, beef, pork SAUMUR: Auberge St-Pierre €€ dinner; Mon & Tue; mid-Nov–Jan
casserole) and bibelekäse (cream Regional Expect innovative takes on classic
cheese and sautéed potatoes). 6 Place St-Pierre, 49400 dishes such as Burgundy snails
Tel 02-41 51 26 25 and beef bourguignon. Friendly
On a square near the château, in and efficient staff.
a former 15th-century monastery,
The Loire Valley this convivial restaurant serves DIJON: William Frachot €€€
hearty Burgundy dishes. Modern French
BLOIS: 5 Rue Michelet, 21000
L’Orangerie du Château €€€ TOURS: Les Saveurs €€ Tel 03-80 50 88 88 Closed Sun
Fine Dining Bistro & Mon
1 Avenue Jean Laigret, 41000 1 Place Gaston Paillhou, 37000 One of Dijon’s top restaurants,
Tel 02-54 78 05 36 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 02-47 37 03 13 Closed Sun & Mon the restaurant in the Hostellerie
The fine setting, in a château’s A chic and modern bistro serving du Chapeau Rouge provides
winter garden, is matched by tasty dishes. The kitchen uses inventive modern fare. Expect
the food and wine. The menu seasonal produce sourced dishes such as pigeon served
features innovative regional fare. from the daily market. with a beetroot and lychee sauce.
Key to Price Guide see page 209
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 211
NICE: Passion’elle €€
Fine Dining
14 Rue Maccarani, 06000
Tel 04-93 82 24 12 Closed lunch
Classics, such as ratatouille and
lamb, are reinvented and served
in style. Good vegetarian choices.
BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG
Famed for its magnificent Flemish art and Gothic architecture, Belgium, like
neighboring Luxembourg, is a melting pot of various influences, including
Dutch, French, and German. The histories of the two countries have long been
interlinked, but culturally and linguistically they are distinct. Luxembourg, a
major financial center, is one of the smallest states in Europe.
European Parliament building rising above the trees of Parc Léopold, Brussels
One of the majestic gilt-edged buildings surrounding the Grand Place, Brussels
214 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
By 1555, the Low Countries had passed Napoleon’s defeat, by the Dutch. William I
into the hands of the Spanish Habsburgs, of Orange was appointed King of the
whose Catholic repression of the Netherlands at the Congress of Vienna in
Protestants sparked the 1815, and his autocratic
Dutch Revolt. In the course style, together with a
of the wars that led to series of anti-Catholic
Dutch independence measures, bred
(1568–1648), the considerable discontent,
predominantly Catholic especially among the
southern part of the Low French-speaking
Countries remained under Walloons. An 1830
Spanish rule. In 1700, the uprising ousted the
Spanish Habsburg dynasty Dutch and made
died out, and England, Leopold I king of a
Austria, and other powers newly independent
united to oppose French Belgium. Nine years later,
designs on the region in the Luxembourg, a Grand-
War of the Spanish King Leopold I, the first king of the Belgians, Duchy since 1815, also
Succession. When the war crowned in 1830 gained independence.
came to an end in 1713, the Both countries’
Treaty of Utrecht transferred Belgium and economies flourished throughout the
Luxembourg to the Austrian Habsburgs. 19th century, but all was eclipsed with
Belgium was again ruled by foreign the start of World War I. In 1940, the
powers between 1794 and 1830. First, by Germans invaded again, this time
the French Republicans, and then, after under Hitler’s command.
Belgium’s history in the latter half
KEY DATES IN THE HISTORY OF of the 20th century was dominated by
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG the ongoing language debate between
56 BC Julius Caesar conquers the Low Countries the Flemings and the Walloons. The
963 AD Count Siegfried establishes Luxembourg constitution was redrawn, creating a
1229 Brussels granted its first charter federal state with three separate regions:
1430 Under Burgundian rule, Brussels becomes the Flanders, Wallonia, and Brussels.
major administrative center of the region
1482 The region falls under Austrian sovereignty Language and Culture
1519 Charles V becomes Holy Roman Emperor In the north of Belgium, the Flemish
1555–1794 Spanish and Austrian rule have their roots in the Netherlands
1794 French Republican armies take over and Germany, while the Walloons of
1815 Belgium and Luxembourg pass to William I of the south are related to the French.
Orange, King of the Netherlands
French is one of the official languages
1830 Belgium gains independence
of Luxembourg, as is German, but the
1839 Luxembourg gains independence
indigenous language is Letzeburgesch,
1914 Both countries invaded by Germany
a dialect of German spoken by all.
1940 Nazi troops occupy both countries
Artistically, Belgium is best known for
1958 EEC (now the EU) headquarters set up in Brussels
1962 Act of Parliament divides Belgium into Dutch-
its 17th-century painters (including
and French-speaking regions Rubens, van Dyck, and Jordaens) and
1967 NATO headquarters move to Brussels more recently for its Art Nouveau style
2000 Grand Duke of Luxembourg abdicates in favor of architecture and Surrealist artists,
of his eldest son, Henri such as Magritte. Today, the country
2013 King Albert II of Belgium abdicates in favor of is one of the world’s most popular
his son Philippe
producers of chocolate and beer.
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG 215
Sights at a Glance
The medieval market square, seen from the
1 Brussels pp216–23 4 Ghent
Belfort tower, Bruges
2 Antwerp 5 Waterloo
3 Bruges pp226–8 6 Luxembourg
Amsterdam
NETHERL AN D S
Hull NORTH
SEA
A1
Zeebrugge
A21
Oostende Bruges Antwerp Albe
N49 rt Ka
Ramsgate (Brugge) (Antwerpen) naal
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A18
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9
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N4
A4
Reims
N7
Bastogne
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0 kilometers 40 Vianden
N9
5
0 miles 40 Echternach
N4
LUXEMBOURG
Reims
1
Arlon LUXEMBOURG
A1
3
Saarbrücken
Key
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border
1 Brussels
With more than one million inhabitants, the
Brussels-Capital Region is made up of nineteen
districts. The actual city of Brussels is much smaller
and divided into two main areas. Historically the
poorer area, where workers and immigrants
lived, the Lower Town is centered on the
splendid 17th-century Grand Place.
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Sights at a Glance
AS
S
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Palais de Justice RD
BL
Justitie Paleis VA A
HAL
1 Grand Place L E DE L
E
U
RU
TE
BONUE
U
2 Musée du Costume et de
A
E
H
AV
RUE
la Dentelle
3 Manneken Pis
4 Centre Belge de la Bande
Dessinée
5 Cathédrale Sts-Michel et Gudule
6 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Getting Around
7 Palais Royal
Brussels’ Lower Town is well served by trams. However,
8 Place du Grand Sablon
many streets are pedestrianized, and usually the
9 European Parliament Quarter quickest way of getting around is on foot. In the
0 Parc du Cinquantenaire Upper Town, the best option is to take one of the
buses that run through the district. Brussels’ metro
Greater Brussels (see inset map) stations are well placed for the main sights of interest,
q Musée Horta and the system offers a fast and efficient way of
w Bruparck reaching the suburbs.
BRUSSELS 217
Antwerp
Greater Brussels
A1
Strombeek- Bruxelles National
Bever Brussel Nationaal
A12
RO
N1
R2
1 Diegen 1
20 A
Zaventem
Jette Evere N2
Ghent Liège
Schaerbeek
N2
Kraainem
A3
27
N8
N2
Woluwe-
RO
BRUSSELS Saint-Lambert
N6
Woluwe-
Saint-Pierre Charleroi
Etterbeek
Revelers in costumes at a festival 0 kilometers 3
St-Gilles
KRUIDTUIN in the Grand Place Ixelles
0 miles 3
Botanique
Kruidtuin
BLV
D
Key
BISCH L A A N
PLACE DES
BARRICADES W EG Area of main map
E EN
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BARRICADEN
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OF FSH
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AVENUE LIVINGSTONE LAAN
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Palais de la Nation N E
N
SQUARE N STR
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SQUARE
Paleis der Naties MARIE-
LAA
MARGUERITE
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ARD
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AN E
BLIJJOY EU DE LA
B E D ST
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AA
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ETT
D’A M SE L A
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N ER Kunst en Geshiedenis OIS
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LUXEMBURG
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A S
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RUE
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N
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Europees Parlementt IE V. D LL
NE
EN CE
RSLA
A N A GA
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RUE F
LT S
HOORN STR A A T
K E. D E
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AV
PLACE
OO
PLACE
G
VAN MEYEL
Brussel-Luxemburg Naturelles Museum voor JOURDAN PLEIN
NS
PLEIN
Natuurwetenschappen RUE GENERAL LEMAN ST
RAAT
EG
TR
E ENW
AA
ST
CHA U S S E E D E W SE
AV R E W AV E R
T
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Bronze statues in the Place du Petit Sablon in the Upper Town
2 Musée du
Costume et de la
Dentelle
Rue de Violette 12. Tel 02-213 4450.
q Gare Centrale. @ 48, 95. Open
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
8 on request. 7 restricted.
The idea of erecting a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth as a Practical Information
major European trading center had been under consideration Grand Place. Tel 02-279 2343.
Open for guided tours (in English:
since the end of the 13th century, but it was not until 1401 that 2pm Wed, 11am, 3pm, & 4pm
the first foundation stone was laid. Completed in 1459, the Hôtel Sun; call 02-548 0447 for more
de Ville emerged as the finest civic building in the country, a details). Closed public hols &
stature it still enjoys. Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to election days. & 7
design the left wing, where he used ornate columns, sculptures, Transport
turrets, and arcades. Jan van Ruysbroeck’s elegant spire helped q Bourse, Gare Centrale.
@ many routes. v 3, 4, 31, 32.
seal the building’s reputation. Tours of the interior are available,
with its 15th-century tapestries and works of art.
. Maximilian Room
This lavish hall, used today by the
city council, takes its name from
the portrait of Maximilian I of
Austria over the fireplace. It
contains 18th-century tapestries
depicting the history of
6th-century King Clovis.
. Council Chamber
This room was where the
ruling council of Brabant
The tower, begun in used to meet. Ancient
1449, is 96 m (315 ft) tapestries and gilt mirrors
The gabled roof, like high. It is topped by a line the walls above an
much of the town hall, statue of St. Michael, inlaid floor.
was fully restored in patron saint of Brussels.
1837 and cleaned
in the 1990s.
Gothic Room
137 stone
statues adorn
the facades.
Wedding Room
A Neo-Gothic style dominates
this civil marriage office. Its
ornate carved timbers include
mahogany inlaid with ebony.
220 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
The triumphal central archway and surrounding colonnades of the Parc du Cinquantenaire
q Musée Horta
Rue Américaine 23–25. Tel 02-543 0490.
@ 54. v 81, 82, 91. q Albert, Louise.
Open 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed
public hols. ∑ hortamuseum.be
M
that they were the wonder of northern Europe. Today, the
streets are well maintained: there are no billboards or high-
rises, and traffic is heavily regulated.
T
A
A
R
T
S LOPPEMST G
N
R
The Dijver River E
A
U
R
A charming introduction to E B
A
T
E
T
S
SI
MO
N
PLE
N
IN
IE
U
W
ST
M A
RA
S A L
R I
AT
A S
VAT
T R
O
SK
R
A A
ER K HOF
T
Bus and
train stations
Memling in Sint-Jans-
hospitaal Museum
This 12th-century
hospital operated until
1976. It contains a
well-preserved 15th-
century dispensary.
For hotels and restaurants see p234 and p235
BRUGES 227
RG
BU
18th-century Vismarkt
L
E
(Fish Market).
S
I
T
G A
R
A
A
K
D
A
E
T
O
H
N
E
Z
O
R
Heilig Bloed
Basiliek
(see p228)
ER
V
IJ
D
Groeninge . Stadhuis
Museum One of the oldest and finest town halls
(see p228) in Belgium, this was built between
1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
restored Gothic hall is noted for its
The Arentshuis Museum 1385 vaulted ceiling.
has paintings by Frank
Brangwyn (1867–1956).
Key
Gruuthuse Museum Suggested route
(see p228)
The Belfort
0 meters 100 Built in the 13th century, the Belfort,
or Belfry, is a stunning octagonal
0 yards 100
tower where the city’s medieval
charter of rights is held.
228 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
6 Luxembourg Vianden
* 1,600. @ n 1a Rue du Vieux
One of Europe’s smallest sovereign states, the Grand Duchy of Marché (83 42 57). Château de
Luxembourg is often overlooked by travelers in Europe. The Vianden: Tel 83 41 08 1. Open Apr–
capital, Luxembourg City, is well known as a world center of Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct, Mar:
international finance, but behind the modern face of the city 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
lies a rich history stretching back more than 1,000 years. The
northern half of the country boasts some spectacular scenery, Surrounded by medieval
especially the Ardennes, a region of dense forests, deep ramparts, Vianden, in the
valleys, and hilltop castles. Historic towns such as Vianden and Luxembourg Ardennes, is a
Echternach are good bases for exploring the countryside and popular tourist destination. The
main attraction is the 11th-
offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities. century Château de Vianden.
Its rooms feature a range of
architectural styles, from the
Romanesque to the Renaissance.
A cable car takes visitors to
the top of a nearby hill, giving
superb views of the castle.
Echternach
* 4,000. @ n 9–10 Parvis de la
Basilique (72 02 30). Abbey Basilica:
Open daily. Abbey Museum: Open
Apr, May & Oct: 10am–noon, 2–5pm
daily; Jun & Sep: 10am–noon, 2–6pm
daily; Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ echternach-tourist.lu
Luxembourg City, with its aqueduct and hilltop historic center Located in Petite Suisse (Little
Switzerland), a picturesque
Luxembourg City Ducal has been the official royal region of wooded hills north-
* 92,000. k 6 km (4 miles) E. £ residence since 1890. The oldest east of the capital, Echternach
@ n 30 Place Guillaume II (22 28 parts of the building, which is dotted with fine medieval
09). ∑ lcto.lu used to be the town hall, date buildings, including the 15th-
from the latter half of the 16th century turreted town hall. The
Luxembourg City enjoys a century. Nearby, the Cathédrale star sight, however, is the
dramatic location, set atop Notre-Dame was begun in Benedictine abbey, founded by
hills and cliffs rising above the 1613. Inside is a fine Baroque St. Willibrord in the 7th century.
Alzette and Pétrusse valleys. The organ gallery by Daniel Muller. The crypt of the abbey basilica
town grew up around a castle Two museums worth visiting (c.900) contains some glorious
built on a rocky promontory, are the Musée National frescoes. There are good walks
known as the Rocher du Bock, d’Histoire et d’Art, which has and cycle routes in the
in AD 963. The castle was a good archaeological section surrounding countryside.
destroyed in the late 19th and a collection of ancient
century by the city’s inhabitants, and modern sculpture and
but some of the fortifications paintings, and the Musée de
have been preserved, most l’Histoire de la Ville de
famously the Bock and Pétrusse Luxembourg, which focuses
Casemates. These huge on the city’s historical past.
networks of underground
defensive galleries, which date + Casemates
back to the 17th century, not Bock Casemates: Montée de Clausen.
only provided shelter for Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm. &
thousands of soldiers, but also Pétrusse Casemates: Place de la
housed workshops, kitchens, Constitution. Open Easter, Whitsun, &
bakeries, and slaughterhouses. end May–mid-Sep: 11am–4pm. &
The Crypte Archéologique du E Musée National d’Histoire
Bock has displays and an et d’Art
audiovisual presentation on the Place Marché aux Poissons. Tel 47 93
history of the city’s fortifications. 301. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Medieval town hall in the Place du
Luxembourg City’s Palais Grand 87 Marché, Echternach
230 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies Luxembourg Rail Travel
Belgium UK (Belgium) Police Tel 113. Belgian National
Grand Place 1, 1000 Ave d’Auderghem 10, All other services Tel 112. Railways
Brussels. Tel 02-513 8940. B-1040 Brussels. Tel 02-528 2828.
∑ visitbelgium.com Tel 02-287 6211. Airlines ∑ belgianrail.be
Luxembourg UK (Luxembourg) Chemins de Fer
5 Blvd Joseph II, L-1840
Brussels Airlines
City Office, Luxembourgeois
Luxembourg City. Tel 090-251 600 (Belgium).
Place Guillaume II, Tel 24 89 24 89. ∑ cfl.lu
Luxembourg City. Tel 22 98 64. Tel 0905-609 5609 (UK).
Tel 42 82 82 10. US (Belgium) Tel 866-308 2230 (US). Eurostar
∑ visitluxembourg.com Blvd du Régent 27, Tel 070-79 79 79 (Belgium).
∑ brusselsairlines.com
B-1000 Brussels. Tel 08432-186 186 (UK).
UK
Tel 02-811 4000. Luxair ∑ eurostar.com
Belgian Tourist Office
Tel 020-7537 1132. US (Luxembourg) Tel 0352-2456 4242 Thalys
Tel 0800-954 5245. 22 Blvd Emmanuel (Luxembourg). ∑ luxair.lu Tel 70 66 77 88 (Belgium).
∑ belgiumtheplaceto. Servais, L-2535 ∑ thalys.com
be Luxembourg City. Ferry Companies
Luxembourg Tourist Office. Tel 46 01 23. Buses
∑ visitluxembourg.com DFDS Seaways
Emergency Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK).
De Lijn
US Numbers Tel 070-220 200.
Belgian Tourist Office ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk ∑ delijn.be
Tel 212-758 8130. Belgium
Police Tel 101. P&O Ferries TEC
Luxembourg Tourist
Office Ambulance and Fire Tel 0800 130 0030 (UK). Tel 01-023 5353.
∑ visitluxembourg.com Department Tel 100. ∑ poferries.com ∑ infotec.be
232 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
Jazz, Rock, and Blues blockbusters and major British consult the Rando-Vélo or
One of the best places to catch and French releases. Real movie Fietsroute cycling websites.
good jazz acts in Brussels is fans should not miss a visit to Tourist offices in Belgium and
Sounds, a large venue featuring the Musée du Cinéma in the Luxembourg also offer walking
some of Belgium’s top artists. Palais des Beaux-Arts complex. guides and maps. To arrange
The club also has Blues nights. The museum shows classic hiking tours in the Ardennes
On Saturday and Sunday films, from Chaplin to Tarantino, area, contact Belgium-based
afternoons, it is worth stopping with nightly programs of silent Europ’Aventure.
at L’Archiduc, a refurbished movies sometimes with a live- In Luxembourg, the lake at
Art Deco bar in the center of piano accompaniment. Echternach offers plenty of
town, where you can listen to opportunities for swimming,
jazz in a relaxed atmosphere. sailing, and windsurfing, while
Ancienne Belgique hosts Outdoor Activities the rivers of the Ardennes region
up-and-coming guitar bands, Belgium and Luxembourg have are fine territory for canoeing
folk, Latin, and techno acts. extensive networks of cycle and kayaking. For further infor-
tracks, and you can rent bicycles mation on the latter, contact the
easily from a number of outlets, Fédération Luxembourgeoise
Cinema including many train stations. For de Canoë-Kayak. For infor-
At Brussels’ Bruparck (see p223), route details, the best source of mation on the whole range of
the 27-screen Kinepolis cinema information is the local tourist sporting activities available,
complex shows Hollywood information office. Alternatively, contact the City Tourist Office.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Maison F. Rubbrecht Waterstones Jazz, Rock,
Arcades Grand Place 23, Brussels. Boulevard Adolphe Max and Blues
Tel 02-512 0218. 71, Brussels.
Galérie Bortier Tel 02-219 2708. Ancienne Belgique
Rue de la Madeleine 55, Pierre Marcolini Boulevard Anspach 110,
Brussels. Rue des Minimes 1, Opera, Classical Brussels.
Brussels. Music and Dance Tel 02-548 2484.
Galéries d’Ixelles ∑ abconcerts.be
Tel 02-514 1206.
Chaussée d’Ixelles, Conservatoire de
Brussels. Utopia L’Archiduc
Musique de la Ville de
Rue Antoine Dansaert 6,
Galéries Saint-Hubert
Rue du Midi 39, Brussels. Luxembourg
Brussels.
Tel 02-514 0826. 33 Rue Charles Martel,
Rue des Bouchers, Tel 02-512 0652.
Luxembourg City.
Brussels. Villeroy & Boch ∑ archiduc.net
Tel 47 96 55 55.
2 Rue du Fossé, Sounds
Specialty Items Luxembourg City. Grand Théâtre de
Rue de la Tulipe 28,
Tel 46 33 43. Luxembourg
Beer Mania Brussels.
1 Rond-Point Robert
Chaussée de Wavre 330 Rue Rollingergrund, Tel 02-512 9250.
Schuman, Luxembourg
174–176, Brussels. Luxembourg City. ∑ soundsjazzclub.be
City. Tel 47 96 39 00.
Tel 02-512 1788. Tel 46 82 12 78.
Halles de Schaerbeek Outdoor
Dandoy Wittamer Rue Royale Sainte-Marie Activities
Rue au Beurre 31, Place du Grand Sablon 6, 22a, Brussels.
Brussels. 12–13 Brussels. Tel 02-218 2107. Europ’Aventure
Tel 02-540 2702. Tel 02-512 3742. ∑ halles.be
Tel 061-688 611 (Belgium).
∑ europaventure.be
∑ wittamer.com
Diamondland Kaaitheater
Square Sainteclette 20, Fédération
Appelmansstraat 33A,
Bookstores Brussels.
Luxembourgeoise
Antwerp.
Tel 01-201 5959.
de Canöe-Kayak
Tel 03-369 0780. Chapter 1 3 Route d’Arlon,
∑ kaaitheater.be
Godiva 42 Rue Astrid, L-8009, Strassen.
Grand Place 22, Luxembourg City. La Monnaie Tel 75 35 61 57.
Brussels. Tel 44 07 09. Place de la Monnaie, ∑ flck.lu
Tel 02-511 2537. Brussels.
Librairie Louis d’Or Fietsroute
Tel 02-229 1211.
Kant Centrum Rue du Bailli 54, Brussels. ∑ fietsroute.org
∑ lamonnaie.be
Balstraat 16, Bruges. Tel 02-640 6432. Luxembourg City
Tel 050-33 00 72.
Palais des Beaux-Arts
Sterling Books Tourist Office
Rue Ravenstein 23,
Little Nemo Rue du Fossé aux Loups Tel 22 28 09. ∑ lcto.lu
Brussels.
Boulevard Lemmonier 25, 23, Brussels. Tel 02-507 8200. Rando-Vélo
Brussels. Tel 02-514 6804. Tel 02-223 6223. ∑ bozar.be ∑ randovelo.org
234 BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Rest of Belgium Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
ANTWERP: Hotel
Rubens – Grote Markt €€ € up to €100
Luxury €€ €100 to €260
€€€ over €260
Oude Beurs 29, 2000
Tel 03-222 4848
∑ hotelrubensantwerp.be
A well-presented four-star hotel, Luxembourg
with a note of individuality owing
to its medieval lookout tower. BERDORF: Le Bisdorff €€
Luxury
BOUILLON: Panorama Hôtel €€ an der Heesbech 39, 6551
Modern Tel 79 02 08
Rue au-dessus de la Ville 25, 6830 ∑ hotel-bisdorff.lu
Tel 061-46 61 38 Old-fashioned hotel-restaurant
∑ panoramahotel.be surrounded by a garden. Guests
Impeccably furnished family-run enjoy an indoor pool and sauna.
A suite extending over two floors at Le hotel-restaurant with lovely views
Place d’Armes Hotel, in Luxembourg City over Bouillon and the castle. LUXEMBOURG CITY:
Belappart Studio Hotel €
Budget
DK Choice
Brussels Rue du Fort Neipperg 69, 2230
BRUGES: Alegria €€ Tel 23 60 45 1
LOWER TOWN: Modern ∑ belappart.lu
Scandic Grand Place € Sint-Jakobsstraat 34, 8000 Small, modern apartment
Budget Map C2 Tel 050-33 09 37 accommodation, for both short
Rue d’Arenberg 18, 1000 ∑ alegria-hotel.com and long stays.
Tel 02-548 1811 Utterly charming family-run
∑ scandichotels.com guesthouse, close to the Markt,
Centrally located and surprisingly the main square in Bruges. Each DK Choice
well-appointed good-value hotel. of the well-equipped rooms LUXEMBOURG CITY:
has been thematically styled; Le Place d’Armes Hotel €€€
some overlook the garden Boutique
DK Choice to the rear. The owners offer Place d’Armes 18, 1136
LOWER TOWN: Amigo €€€ excellent advice about what to Tel 27 47 37
Luxury Map C3 do and where to eat. A good ∑ hotel-leplacedarmes.com
Rue de l’Amigo 23–27,1000 complimentary breakfast is Located on the central square,
Tel 02-547 4747 served in the garden room. this five-star hotel is beautifully
∑ roccofortehotels.com designed, blending the historic
This five-star hotel provides – original fireplaces and beamed
supreme comfort, attention GHENT: Sandton Grand ceilings – with the modern. The
to detail, and polished service, Hotel Reylof €€ Cristallerie Restaurant and Le
where every client is treated Luxury Café de Paris (a bristo with a
as a cherished guest. Located Hoogstraat 36, 9000 wine bar), could dissuade
close to the Grand Place, this Tel 09-235 4070 guests from ever venturing out.
is the hotel of choice for ∑ sandton.eu Pampering luxury alongside
movie stars and presidents. Affordable luxury at this centrally impeccable service.
located hotel with well-
appointed rooms, a spa, a good
UPPER TOWN: Rembrandt restaurant, and excellent service. REMICH: Hôtel des Vignes €€
Hotel € Modern
Budget LEUVEN: Martin’s Klooster €€ Route de Mondorf 29, 5552
Rue de la Concorde 42, 1050 Boutique Tel 23 69 91 49
Tel 02-512 7139 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwstraat 18, 3000 ∑ hotel-vignes.lu
∑ hotelrembrandt.be Tel 01-621 3141 A polished hotel-restaurant set
A small and friendly guesthouse ∑ martinshotels.com amid vineyards, with views out
with great charm and loads of Spacious suites and rooms with onto the Moselle river.
individual character. a stylish touch in a renovated
16th-century monastery. VIANDEN: Hotel Heintz €
UPPER TOWN: Boutique
Odette en Ville €€€ LIÈGE: Crowne Plaza €€€ Grande-Rue 55, 9401
Boutique Luxury Tel 83 41 55
25 Rue du Châtelain, 1050 Mont Saint-Martin 9–11, 4000 ∑ hotel-heintz.lu
Tel 02-640 2626 Tel 04-222 9494 Well-established hotel with the
∑ chez-odette.com ∑ ihg.com feel of an Alpine lodge. South-
Located in the trendy Châtelain This stylish modern hotel is facing rooms have balconies and
area of Ixelles, Odette oozes retro attached to the grand old palace views of the castle ramparts; others
style and has a fêted restaurant. of the Sélys Longchamps family. face the gardens or old town.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 235
THE NETHERLANDS
Situated at the mouth of the Rhine River, the Netherlands is a man-made
country that owes its life to the sea: much of the land once lay under water, and
a maritime trading tradition was the principal source of the nation’s wealth,
most notably in the 17th century. The Netherlands is also one of the world’s
most liberal countries, with a long history of cultural and racial tolerance.
The shape of the Netherlands (or Holland, are all in the west of the country and part
as it is also known) has changed dramatically of the urban conglomeration known as
over the last 2,000 years. Medieval maps the Randstad.
show nearly half of the country under
water, but since then, large areas have History
been reclaimed from the sea; the current Between the 4th and 8th centuries, after
shoreline is maintained by a drainage the collapse of the Roman Empire, the
system of windmills, dykes, and canals. area corresponding to present-day
With just under 17 million people in just Holland was conquered by the Franks.
41,547 sq km (16,041 sq miles) of land, it is As with all the Low Countries, it was later
the third most densely populated country ruled by the House of Burgundy, before
in Europe (after Monaco and Malta), but passing into the hands of the Habsburgs.
this is barely perceptible to the visitor. Only When the Habsburg Empire was divided
when arriving by plane do you see how in 1555, the region came under the
much of the area is still covered with water, control of the Spanish branch of the
and how little precious land remains. The family, which caused the Dutch Revolt
orderly Dutch cities and towns never seem of 1568, led by William I of Orange. The
overcrowded, but homes are often small, Dutch Republic was finally established
with steep, narrow staircases and modest in 1579, with the Treaty of Utrecht, but it
gardens. Given the fragility of their took until 1648 for the Spanish officially
environment, it is understandable that the to recognize its sovereignty.
Dutch are so good at preserving it. The battle for independence and the
The three biggest cities – Amsterdam, need for wealth to fight the Spanish
the capital, Rotterdam, the industrial hub, armies stimulated trading success
and the Hague, the seat of government – overseas. The Dutch colonized much of
Antwerp
Sights at a Glance Cologne
B E L G I U M
1 Amsterdam pp240–51
7 Leiden
2 Marken and Volendam 0 km 90
8 The Hague
3 Alkmaar
9 Delft 0 miles 90
4 Haarlem
0 Rotterdam
5 Paleis Het Loo
6 Utrecht
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02
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Haarlem AMSTERDAM
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4
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l
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For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261 For keys to symbols see back flap
240 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
1 Amsterdam
Amsterdam was founded in around 1200 as a small fishing
T TRAA
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Getting Around
The most useful tram routes for tourists are lines 1, 2, 4, 5,
9, and 16, which go south from Centraal Station and branch
out to all the main sights. Lines 13, 14, and 17 lead west to
Jordaan. Bus 22 serves Nemo and the Scheepvaartmuseum,
which you cannot reach by tram. A canalbus service runs
from the Singelgracht to Centraal Station, stopping at the Houseboats on Prinsengracht, in
major landmarks. Amsterdam’s western canal ring
6 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Tel 020-638 6909. v 1, 2, 4, 5
& many others. Open daily during
exhibitions; see website for details.
& 7 - = ∑ nieuwekerk.nl
Dominating the gallery is one for lodgings within the 0 Anne Frank House
of the museum’s most extra- complex, these worthy women
Prinsengracht 267. Tel 020-556 7105.
ordinary exhibits: a 17th- undertook to educate the poor v 13, 14, 17. 4 Prinsengracht.
century 5.30-m (17-ft) statue and look after the sick. Open daily (Jan 1 & Dec 25: pm only).
of Goliath (c.1650). Children Although none of the earliest Closed Yom Kippur. &
can experience life in a 17th- dwellings survives, the rows of ∑ annefrank.org
century orphanage in the beautiful houses that overlook
“Little Orphanage” the Begijnhof’s well-kept green For two years during World
exhibition. include Amsterdam’s oldest War II, the Frank and Van Pels
surviving house, Het Houten families, both Jewish, hid here
Huis, at No. 34. Dating from the until their betrayal to the Nazis.
second half of the 15th century, The 13-year-old Anne began
it is one of only two wooden- her famous diary in July 1942.
fronted houses in the city, since First published in 1947 as Het
timber buildings were banned Achterhuis (The Annex), and
in 1521 after a series of catastro- since translated into dozens
phic fires. On a wall directly of languages, the journal gives
behind No. 34 is a collection of a moving account of growing
fascinating stone plaques, up under persecution, and of
illustrating biblical themes. life in confinement. Anne
The southern side of the made her last entry in August
square is dominated by the 1944, three days before her
Engelse Kerk (English family was arrested.
Church), which dates Visitors climb to the
from the 15th second floor where
century and retains an introductory
its original video is shown. You
medieval tower. then enter the
The church was annex where the
confiscated after families hid via the
the Alteration and revolving bookcase
rented to a group of that concealed its
Statue of Goliath (c.1650) in the English and Scottish entrance. The rooms
Amsterdam Museum Presbyterians in are now empty,
1607. Directly Family photograph of except for the
9 Begijnhof opposite is the Anne Frank (1929–45) posters in Anne’s
Spui (entrance at Gedempte Begijnhof Chapel room and Otto
Begijnensloot). v 1, 2, 5, 9, (Nos. 29–30), a well-preserved Frank’s model of the annex as
14, 16, 24. Open daily. hidden church, where the it was during the occupation.
∑ begijnhofamsterdam.nl Begijntjes worshipped in secret The house also has exhibitions
until religious tolerance was on World War II and anti-
The Begijnhof was built in 1346 restored in 1795. Tour groups Semitism. Try to arrive early
as a sanctuary for the Begijntjes, are not permitted in the or late in the day as the
a lay Catholic sisterhood who Begijnhof and the occupants museum gets very crowded.
lived like nuns, although they request that noise should be Buy tickets via the Internet
took no monastic vows. In return kept to a minimum. to avoid the queues.
Attractive gabled houses and central green of Amsterdam’s Begijnhof, which is still occupied by single women
246 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
r Het Scheep-
vaartmuseum
Kattenburgerplein 1. Tel 020-523
2222. @ 22. 4 Oosterdok,
Kattenburgergracht. Open daily.
Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25. & 7
∑ hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
u Rijksmuseum
The Rijksmuseum is a familiar Amsterdam landmark. It Third floor
possesses an unrivaled collection of about 1 million artworks,
8,000 of which are on display, arranged chronologically in
80 galleries. The museum opened in 1885 to criticism from
Amsterdam’s Protestant community for its Catholic Neo-
Renaissance style. The main building, designed by P.J.H.
Cuypers, underwent
extensive renovation
for ten years and
reopened in 2013.
The Neo-Renaissance
facade of Cuypers’
building is red brick
with elaborate
decoration, including
colored tiles.
Gallery Guide
The entrance to the main building is
through the Atrium. The collection
explores 800 years of Dutch history
through paintings, sculpture, applied
arts, and historical objects. Artworks
are shown side by side, underlining
contrasts and connections. A
pavilion between the main building
and the Philips Wing houses the
Asiatic collection. The Philips Wing
has a café and restaurant on the
ground level, and a floor devoted
to temporary exhibitions.
Key to Floorplan
1100–1600
1600–1700
1700–1800
1800–1900 . St. Elizabeth’s Day Flood (1500)
1900–2000 An unknown artist painted this altar
piece, which shows a disastrous flood in
Asian Pavillion
1421. The dykes protecting Dordrecht
Special Collections were breached, and 22 villages were
Nonexhibition space swept away by the flood water.
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261
AMSTERDAM 249
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Museumstraat 1.
Tel 020-674 7000.
∑ rijksmuseum.nl
Open 9am–5pm daily.
&870-=
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12.
. The Night Watch (1642) 4 Stadhouderskade.
The showpiece of Dutch
17th-century art, this vast canvas by
Rembrandt was commissioned
as a group portrait of an
Amsterdam militia company.
Asian
Pavilion
Genre Painting
For the contemporaries of Jan Steen
(1625–79), this cosy everyday scene
was full of symbols that are obscure to
the modern viewer. The dog on the
pillow may represent fidelity, and the
red stockings the woman’s sexuality;
she is probably a prostitute. Such
genre paintings were often raunchy,
but nearly always had a moral twist –
domestic scenes by artists such as ter
Borch and Honthorst were symbolic of
brothels, while other works illustrated
proverbs. Symbols like candles or skulls
indicated mortality.
Auditorium
250 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
3 Alkmaar
* 94,000. £ n Waaggebouw,
Waagplein 2–3 (072-5114 284).
( cheese market: Apr–1st Fri in Sep:
10am–12:30pm Fri.
∑ vvvhartvannoordholland.nl
7 Leiden
* 119,000. £ @ n Stationsweg
41 (071-516 600). ( Wed, Sat.
∑ leiden.nl
Environs
Only a 15-minute tram ride
from the center of Den Haag,
Scheveningen has clean, sandy
beaches and good seafood
restaurants. The resort also has
a Sea Life Center and Muzee, a
small museum of marine-biology
The Binnenhof, home of the Dutch parliament, The Hague and local-history exhibits.
For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261
THE NETHERLANDS 255
R Nieuwe Kerk
Markt. Tel 015-2123 025.
Open Mon–Sat. & ∑ onkd.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St. Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602 358.
Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & =
∑ prinsenhof-delft.nl
and 1am, after which they run onward connection to London. Buses in the Netherlands are
hourly. The journey takes 20 Stena Line offers a train and reliable and efficient, and they
minutes. Schiphol Airport ferry combination ticket from accept the OV Chipkaart, a card
station is also connected to London to Amsterdam. which can be loaded with credit
other cities in the Netherlands. The Dutch railroad system, at machines (found at bus and
operated by NS (Nederlandse train stations, post offices, and
Spoorwegen), is one of the supermarkets) and used on all
Arriving by Sea most modern and efficient in means of public transport. The
Ferry companies offering car and Europe, with an extensive route card is held against a card-
passenger services from the UK network. The NS website offers reader upon entering and
to the Netherlands include P&O up-to-date information on train exiting the bus, train, or tram,
North Sea Ferries, with daily trips for tourists, plus details of and it is debited depending on
sailings from Hull to Rotterdam, special fares. It does not, however, the distance traveled. You can
and Stena Line, which sails from issue tickets, which you buy at a buy a Chipkaart at train and bus
Harwich to Hook of Holland. ticket office; alternatively, use stations, tobacconists, post
P&O also operates regular the OV Chipkaart (see below). offices, and supermarkets.
crossings from Hull to Zeebrugge The info line 9292 provides
in Belgium. DFDS Seaways runs details on all public transporta-
an overnight service from tion in the Netherlands. If you Traveling by Car
Newcastle to Ijmuiden. need to arrange train travel The highway system makes it
abroad, visit the offices of NS easy to travel to the Netherlands
International, located in from anywhere in Europe. Major
Rail Travel Amsterdam’s Centraal Station or roads (marked N) and highways
International railroad routes book through the website. (labeled A or E) are generally
provide a fast and efficient link well maintained. When driving
between Amsterdam and many in towns, especially in
other European cities. From Traveling by Bus Amsterdam, be careful of cyclists,
Centraal Station, high-speed Long-distance bus travel is an trams, taxis, and pedestrians.
Thalys trains run to Brussels in inexpensive, if tiring, way to Most of the principal
2 hours 30 minutes, and to Paris reach the Netherlands. Eurolines international car-rental firms
in about 4 hours. In both Paris has at least two daily services have offices in Amsterdam and
and Brussels, passengers can from the UK to Amsterdam, at Schiphol Airport, but local
change to the Eurostar for an via the Channel Tunnel. companies are cheaper.
DIRECTORY
Netherland Board Ireland easyJet Stena Line
of Tourism and Scheveningseweg 12, Den Tel 0330-365 5000 (UK). Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Conventions Haag. Tel 070-363 0993. ∑ easyjet.com ∑ stenaline.co.uk
UK UK KLM
Lange Voorhout 10, Tel 020-474 7747
Rail Travel
∑ holland.com/uk
2514 ED Den Haag. Tel 020-7660 0293 (UK). 9292
US Tel 070-427 0427. ∑ klm.com Tel 0900-9292.
∑ holland.com/us US ∑ 9292.nl
Ryanair
Museumplein 19, Tel 0871-246 0000 (UK). ∑ ov-chipkaart.nl
Tourist Offices in 1071 DJ Amsterdam.
∑ ryanair.com
the Netherlands Tel 020-575 5330. Eurostar
Transavia ∑ eurostar.com
VVV I amsterdam Emergencies Tel 352-2700 2728 (UK).
Visitor Centre NS
Tel 0900-0737.
Centraal Station Ambulance/Fire/Police ∑ ns.nl
∑ transavia.com
Stationsplein, Amsterdam. Tel 112.
United Airlines NS International
Tel 020-702 6000.
∑ iamsterdam.com Airlines Tel 800-UNITED-1 (US). Tel 0900-9296.
∑ united.com ∑ nsinternational.nl
American Airlines
Embassies Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Thalys
∑ aa.com
Ferry Companies Tel 0900-9296.
Australia
Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH DFDS Seaways ∑ thalys.com
British Airways
Den Haag. Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
Tel 070-310 8200. ∑ britishairways.com ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk Buses
Canada Delta Air Lines P&O European Eurolines UK Ltd
Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP Den Tel 800-241 4141 (US). Tel 08716-646 464 (UK). Tel 08717-818 178.
Haag. Tel 070-311 1600. ∑ delta.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ eurolines.co.uk
258 FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
DIRECTORY
Department Entertainment ∑ heineken-music- Brown Cafés and
Stores Tickets hall.nl Coffee Shops
De Bijenkorf Last Minute Koninklijk Theater The Bulldog
Ticketshop Carré Leidseplein 15,
Dam 1, Amsterdam.
Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Amstel 115–125, Amsterdam.
Tel 0900-0919. Amsterdam. Tel 0900-252 Tel 020-627 1908.
∑ lastminuteticket
Wagenstraat 32, Den Haag. 5255. ∑ carre.nl
shop.nl ‘t Doktertje
Tel 0900-0919.
De Meervaart Rozenboomsteeg 4,
Coolsingel 105, VVV I amsterdam
Meer en Vaart 300, Amsterdam.
Rotterdam. Tel 0900-0919. ∑ iamsterdam.com
Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 4427.
Magna Plaza Entertainment Tel 020-410 7700. Siberië
Venues ∑ meervaart.nl Brouwersgracht 11,
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
182, Amsterdam. De Melkweg Amsterdam.
Alto Jazz Café Tel 020-623 5909.
∑ magnaplaza.nl Lijnbaansgracht 234a,
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
Amsterdam. Tel 020-531
Specialist Items
115, Amsterdam.
8181. ∑ melkweg.nl Canal Tours
Tel 020-626 3249.
Muziekgebouw Lovers
Albert Heijn Bimhuis aan ‘t IJ Opposite Prins
Jodenbreestraat 21, Piet Heinkade 3, Piet Heinkade 1, Hendrikkade 26,
Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-788 Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-530
Tel 020-624 1249. 2188.∑ bimhuis.nl Tel 020-788 2000. 1090. ∑ lovers.nl
De Brakke Grond ∑ muziekgebouw.nl
De Bierkoning P. Kooij
Vlaams Cultureel Centrum, Nationale Opera & Opposite Rokin 125,
Paleisstraat 125,
Nes 45, Amsterdam. Ballet Amsterdam. Tel 020-623
Amsterdam. Tel 020-622 9014. Amstel 3, Amsterdam. 3810. ∑ rederijkooij.nl
Tel 020-625 2336. ∑ brakkegrond.nl Tel 020-625 5455.
Galleria d’Arte ∑ operaballet.nl Cycling
Concertgebouw
Rinascimento Concertgebouwplein 2–6, Paradiso Cycletours Holland
Prinsengracht 170, Amsterdam. Weteringschans 6–8, Buiksloterweg 7a,
Amsterdam. Tel 020-671 8345. Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 Amsterdam. Tel 020-521
Tel 020-622 7509. ∑ concertgebouw.nl 4521. ∑ paradiso.nl 8400. ∑ cycletours.nl
Felix Meritis Stadsschouwburg Euro-Bike and
Gassan Diamonds
Keizersgracht 324, Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Walking Tours
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat Tel 1-800-575 1540.
Amsterdam. Tel 020-624 2311.
173, Amsterdam. ∑ eurobike.com
Tel 020-627 9477. ∑ ssba.nl
Tel 020-622 5333. ∑ felixmeritis.nl
Theater Bellevue Yellow Bike
Jorrit Heinen Heineken Music Hall Leidsekade 90, Amsterdam. Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
Muntplein 12, Amsterdam. Blvd 590, Amsterdam Zuid Tel 020-530 5301. Amsterdam. Tel 020-620
Tel 020-623 2271. Oost. Tel 0900-6874 242. ∑ theaterbellevue.nl 6940. ∑ yellowbike.nl
260 THE NETHERLANDS
Where to Stay
PLANTAGE: Price Guide
Amsterdam Amsterdam House €€ Prices are based on one night's stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Family Map D3
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
CENTRAL CANAL RING: ‘s-Gravelandse Veer 3–4, 1011 KM
The Golden Bear €€ Tel 020-626 2577 € under €100
Historic Map C3 ∑ amsterdamhouse.com €€ €100 to €180
€€€ over €180
Kerkstraat 37, 1017 GB A houseboat with a well-equipped
Tel 020-624 4785 kitchen and bathrooms. Ideal for
∑ quentingoldenbear.com groups up of to eight people. This rustic B&B in a converted
Popular gay/lesbian hotel, with farmhouse is located close to
two buildings dating back to 1731. PLANTAGE: Hermitage €€ town. Two nights minimum stay.
Breakfast is served until noon. Canalside Map D3
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16, 1018 DR HAARLEM: Stempels €€
Tel 020-623 8259 Historic
DK Choice ∑ hotelhermitageamsterdam.com Klokhuisplein 9, 2011 HK
EASTERN CANAL RING: A 1733 canal house with a garden. Tel 023-512 3910
Banks Mansion €€€ Good for groups or families. ∑ stempelsinhaarlem.nl
Canalside Map C3 This boutique hotel is located
Herengracht 519–525, 1017 BV WESTERN CANAL RING: where the former royal stamps
Tel 020-420 0055 Hotel Brouwer €€ and banknotes printing company
∑ carlton.nl Canalside Map C2 was housed.
This former bank-cum-mansion Singel 83, 1012 VE
has been the winner of a Tel 020-624 6358 THE HAGUE: Mozaic €€
Travelers’ Choice award. Rooms ∑ hotelbrouwer.nl Boutique
have a Frank Lloyd Wright- Unique rooms, named after Dutch Laan Copes van Cattenburgh 38–40,
inspired decor and a choice of artists, with views. No credit cards. 2585 GB
pillows. Everything is included Tel 070-352 2335
in the price – movies, breakfast, WESTERN CANAL RING: ∑ mozaic.nl
mini-bar, iPad loans, and more. Sunhead of 1617 €€ This design hotel in an elegant
Canalside Map C2 neighborhood has trendy, well-
Herengracht 152, 1016 BN appointed accommodations.
MUSEUM QUARTER: Conscious Tel 020-626 1809
Hotel Museum Square €€ ∑ sunhead.com ROTTERDAM: Stayokay €
Boutique Map B5 A romantic hotel with superb Hostel
de Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR breakfasts and great views. Overblaak 85–87, 3011 MH
Tel 020-671 9596 Tel 010-436 5763
∑ conscioushotels.com ∑ stayokay.com
An eco-friendly hotel with huge Located in the Cube Houses
plants and sustainable materials. Rest of the built by Piet Blom in the 1980s.
Guests enjoy organic breakfasts. Netherlands Comfortable and distinctly quirky.
A Coruña Santander
Oviedo
Lugo
Santiago de
Compostela
León
Braganca
Valladolid
Coimbra
Toledo
PORTUGAL
(see pp336–63)
Lisbon Merida
Ciudad Real
Evora
Málaga
Bilbao
(Bilbo)
Pamplona
(Iruña)
Burgos
Zaragoza Lleida
Barcelona (see pp296–305)
Barcelona is famous for its Modernist
buildings, which include
Gaudí’s unfinished master-
piece, the Sagrada Família.
Madrid Teruel
Menorca
SPAIN
(see pp266–335) Mallorca
Valencia
Ibiza
Albacete
Alicante
(Alacant)
Granada
SPAIN
The familiar images of Spain – flamenco dancing, bullfighting, tapas bars, and
solemn Easter processions – do no more than hint at the diversity of this
country. Spain has five official languages, two major cities, of almost equal
importance, and a greater range of landscapes than any other European
country. These contrasts make Spain an endlessly fascinating place to visit.
Separated from the rest of Europe by the The 1960s saw the beginning of
Pyrenees, Spain reaches south to the coast spectacular economic growth, partly
of North Africa, and has both Atlantic and due to a burgeoning tourist industry.
Mediterranean coastlines. The country’s Since then, Spain has become a major
climate and scenery vary dramatically, player in European and world affairs.
from the snowcapped peaks of the
Pyrenees, through the green meadows of History
Galicia and the orange groves of Valencia, From the 11th century BC, the coastal
to the dry, barren regions in the south. regions of the Iberian Peninsula were
Madrid, Spain’s capital, lies geographically colonized by sophisticated eastern
in the center of the country. The madrileños Mediterranean civilizations, starting with
– as the city’s inhabitants are known – the Phoenicians, then the Greeks and the
have an individualistic spirit and a sardonic Carthaginians. Celts mixed with native
sense of humor that set them apart from Iberian tribes, forming the Celtiberians.
other Spaniards. Madrid may be the The Romans arrived in 218 BC to take
nominal capital, but it is rivaled in possession of the peninsula’s huge mineral
commerce, sport, and the arts by wealth. The fall of the Roman Empire in the
Barcelona, the main city of Catalonia. 5th century AD left Spain in the hands of
In the last 50 years, Spain has undergone the Visigoths, invaders from the north. Their
more social change than anywhere else poor political organization, however, meant
in western Europe. In the first half of the they were easily conquered by the Moors,
20th century, it was largely a poor, rural who arrived from North Africa in around 711.
country. Gradually people flooded into the Within a few years, the Moors controlled
cities, leaving the rural areas depopulated. almost the entire peninsula. Europe’s only
Exploring Spain
Although many visitors to Spain come for the
beaches alone, increasingly tourists are drawn by the
country’s rich cultural heritage. The most popular
destinations are Madrid and Barcelona, which boast
world-class museums and a wealth of medieval and
modern architecture. For those with time to travel
further afield, Seville, Granada, and Córdoba in the
far south are the best places to see relics of Spain’s
Moorish past. Spain is Europe’s third-largest country, Ciutadella harbor, on the island of Menorca,
so getting around can be time-consuming. However, at twilight
Portsmouth
Plymouth
there is a reliable network of trains, as well as
good highways and bus services. Ba y of Bis ca y
A8 Gijon
A Coruña Santander
34
N6
Oviedo A8 A8
Sights at a Glance A6
A66
Lugo
1 Madrid pp272–82 Santiago de Picos de Europa
Compostela
2 El Escorial
N623
AP
Rías
AP9
53
3 Toledo pp286–8 N120
Baixas Pontevedra 71 León AP
1
4 Segovia AP A231
Vigo Ourense Burgos
5 Avila A52
A6
A67
N2
6 Salamanca Miño
A52
A6
2 34
3 Palencia
7 Burgos pp289–91 N1
N6
8 León 01
A1
N10
3
IP4 Valladolid Duero
9 Santiago de Compostela
Zamora A11
0 Rías Baixas
q Oviedo
Oporto
S P A
A6
Salamanca
w Picos de Europa
A5
e Santander A6 2 0 Segovia
r Bilbao Ávila El Escorial
t San Sebastián
MADRID
y Pamplona
6
Coimbra
A6
A23
10
N1
u Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes A5
Tajo
i Barcelona pp296–305 PORTUGAL
o Monestir de Montserrat Tajo
Toledo
pp306–7
A4
N502
A5 8
Cáceres
p Poblet
N40
A1
A8
a Tarragona
1
A5
N430 Ciudad 3
s Zaragoza A4
Badajoz Real
a
d Valencia LISBON Gu a d i a n
A5
f Costa Blanca A6
g Mallorca and
IP 2
N502
N4
the Balearic Islands 32
A4
N420
N433
k Costa del Sol Córdoba
l Ronda ivir 4 3 Jaén
A4
lqu
N
2
ada
20
A2
Gu
N1
Faro de Doñana 2
v Jerez de la Frontera A38
A45
b Cádiz Ronda A7
Jerez de la Frontera
Málaga Motril
A3
P7
81
Cádiz
A
Distance chart
Madrid Distance by road in kilometers
Distance by road in miles
621
Barcelona
388
397 620
Bilbao
248 388
400 908 795
568 497
Córdoba
250
544 997 939 187
340 623 587 117
Malaga
0 km 80
623 1129 707 977 1153
0 miles 80 389 706 442 611 721 Pontevedra
Bilbao F R A N C E
(Bilbo) San Sebastián Toulouse Marseille
(Donostia)
A1
Pamplona
AP68
A1 (Iruña)
2 N240
A1 ANDORRA
AP15
Logroño
N230
AP7
AP
Parc Nacional
68 Huesca N2
40
d'Aigüestortes
Eb Girona
C17
N II I
ro Monestir de
3
A2
Soria Montserrat
N2
Genoa, Livorno,
22 34 Lleida A2 Civitavecchia
N1 AP2
Zaragoza Poblet
Barcelona
I N A16
A23
N2
32
Tarragona
A2
Guadalajara
Teruel Menorca
N3
7
20
AP
A2 Ciutadella
Cuenca 3
Maó
Alcudia
A40 Castellon de
la Plana Mallorca
A3
Palma de Mallorca and the
AP
Mallorca
Valencia Balearic Islands
36
A3
A 43
Júcar Ibiza
Albacete A31
Eivissa (Ibiza)
7
AP
A3
Formentera
1
A30
Costa
22 Alicante
N3 Blanca
(Alacant)
C3314
ura
MEDITERRANEAN
Seg Murcia
SEA
A7
Cartagena
A92 AP7
A92
Key
A7 Almería
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border The Giralda in Seville, a legacy of Spain’s
Melilla, Nador
Oran,Ghazaouet Moorish rulers
1 Madrid
Spain’s capital, a city of more than three million people, is
situated close to the geographical center of the country,
at the hub of both road and railroad networks. The origins
of the city date back to AD 852, when the Moors built a
fortress near the Manzanares River and a small community
grew up around it. It was not until 1561, however, that the
city became the capital of a newly formed nation-state. In
the following centuries, under the Habsburgs and then
the Bourbons, the city acquired some of its most notable
landmarks, including the splendid Plaza Mayor and the 19th-century taberna (taverna), one of the
Palacio Real. At the same time, the blossoming city few left in Madrid today
attracted some of Spain’s most outstanding artists, such
as court painters Velázquez and Goya, whose works can
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Pedestrian street DE TOLEDO
0 meters 400
0 yards 400
MADRID 273
Burgos
PASEO DE LA CA
Greater Madrid Chamartin
Getting Around Guadalajara
Zaragoza
CALLE DE BRAVO MU
A2
The metro is the most efficient A6
Barajas
Airport
way of getting around. Lines 1,
STE
C.
C. DEL PRINCIPE DE VERGARA
Chamberi
M30
2, 3, 5, and 10 serve the main
DE
LL A
JO
NA
AQ
sights; lines 1 and 2 are good
CA
UIN
LLE
for getting to the museums
CO
DE
RILL
STA
Segovia
around the Paseo del Prado.
L AP
O
El Escorial
N I D A D E L A PAZ
RIN
Line 8 links Nuevos Ministerios Salamanca
CE
S
A
A
and the airport. Useful buses C AL
GRAN V AL
DE
E
Centro
AV
DEL
9, 14, 15, 27, 74, and 146 to the CA
LLE RETIRO
Retiro
DE
Plaza de Cibeles. Buses to ATO
CH
A
Barajas airport depart the Valencia
terminal below Plaza de Colón.
C.
NIII (E901)
DE
M30
M
0 km 1
EN
M a nzana
DE
res
ZA
Areanzuela
0 miles 1
LV
Toledo
AR
O
Key
C. SAGA C ALLE DE F E RNAN
SE STA DO E L SA NT O
R RA
NO
PLAZA DE
ALONSO MARTÍNEZ
C A L LE DE AYA L A Area of main map
AN Alonso CA
LANA
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ITA Martínez LL
ED
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Museo A
S
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SE R R A
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AN VILLA DE
DE
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Sights at a Glance
E
JARDINES DEL
A
CALL
C.
VI
P. D
S EN
EZ
DESCUBRIMIENTO
DI O
N
YO
LE
1 Puerta del Sol
CA
C A L L E DE
SE
Supremo Museo DE
DE CL AU
LA
LL
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RB A J OR
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de Cera
JUSTICIA
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RA Bibloteca GE J U AN
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2 Plaza Mayor
HO
DE
TO
BRA Nacional
C A L LE D E L B ARQUI LO
MA
DE
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CA L L
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LL
CA LLE
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Chueca
3 Monasterio de las
E
CA
CAL
C. D
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DE
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LA
UST C A L L E D E L A L M I RA N T E V IL LA N U E VA
Descalzas Reales
EC
O
Estación
C A LL E
FIGUE
R OA
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ER
Recoletos
B IE R
C A LL E D E PRIM
4 Gran Vía
L I B E RTAD
C. DE
R
RETIRO
SA N
OD
E BA
M A RC O
5 Palacio Real
S C AL L E DE C OLU ME L
A
C. D
6 El Rastro
LAS PLAZA Linares Alcalá
CALA
INF DEL REY
PA
AN
TA S
AL 7 Museo Nacional del Prado
DE
CALLE
Banco de PLAZA DE
V IA España AV
pp278–80
A LF O N S O XI
CIBELES EN
ID A
CA LLE D E
Edificio Palacio de DE
ME
8 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Metrópolis J IC
A LA Banco de Comunicaciones O
O
ALC
D
España
9 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
C A L LE
PRA
DE M O N TAL B AN
C AL L E D E LO S M
AD R A Z Museo Nacional de
0 Parque del Retiro
O
Artes Decorativas
Sevilla CORTES
DEL
C . D E J U AN D E MEN A
C AL L E R UI Z D E A L A R C Ó N
C A L L E D E Z O R RI L L A
PASE O D E L A A RG EN
TINA q Museo Arqueológico
O
PLAZA MAURA
AN TON I O
PASE
DE LA C . D E
Congreso de los LEALTAD
Salon de
Reinos
Nacional
Diputados Hotel Casón del
DO Ritz Buen Retiro
PRA
CAL
LE DEL
PLAZA DE
NEPTUNO CALLE D E FEL IPE I V Greater Madrid
CALLE DE ALFONSO XII
Palace
w Museo de América
PA
C A L L E DE L
CALLE D
MO RE TO
CA LL E LO P E D E V E G A
SEO
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MOYANO
EMPERADOR
CARLOS V Atocha
Convento de Atocha
ARGU Santa Isabel RENFE
MOS
A
Estación de
Atocha
2 Plaza Mayor
q Sol.
Bear and strawberry tree, the symbol of For hundreds of years, this
Madrid, Puerta del Sol beautiful 17th-century square
was a center of activity, with
1 Puerta del Sol bullfights, executions, pageants,
q Sol. and trials by the Inquisition
taking place here.
With its many shops and cafés, The first great public event Decorated chapel, Monasterio de las
the Puerta del Sol (“Gateway was the beatification of the Descalzas Reales
of the Sun”) is one of Madrid’s city’s patron, St. Isidore, in 1621.
liveliest areas, attracting huge Perhaps the greatest occasion,
crowds. The square marks the however, was the arrival from 3 Monasterio de las
site of the original eastern Italy of Carlos III (Carlos VII of Descalzas Reales
entrance to the city, once Naples) in 1760. He became
Plaza de las Descalzas 3. Tel 91-454
occupied by a gatehouse king of Spain after his half- 88 00. q Opera. Open 10am–2pm,
and a castle. brother, Fernando VI, died 4–6:30pm Tue–Sat; 10am–3pm Sun
A statue of Carlos III (reigned without an heir. Designed by & public hols. Closed Jan 1 & 6, 3
1759–88) stands at the center architect Juan Gómez de Mora, days after Easter, May 1, Dec 24, 25
of the square. On its southern the square was started in 1617 & 31. & (except Wed & Thu pm
edge is the austere Casa de for EU residents). 8
Correos, dating from the 1760s. ∑ patrimonionacional.es
Originally the city’s post office, it
later became the headquarters This religious building is a
of the Ministry of the Interior. rare surviving example of
During the Franco regime, the 16th-century architecture in
police cells below the building Madrid. Around 1560, Felipe II’s
were the site of human-rights sister, Doña Juana, decided to
abuses. Outside the building, a convert a medieval palace on
symbol on the ground marks this site into a convent.
Kilometer Zero, considered the Doña Juana’s rank accounts
center of Spain’s road network. for the massive store of art
On the opposite side of the amassed by the Descalzas
square is a bronze statue of the Reales (Royal Barefoot Sisters),
symbol of Madrid – a bear which includes a fresco of Felipe
reaching for the fruit of a IV’s family and, above the main
madroño (strawberry tree). staircase, a ceiling by Claudio
The Puerta del Sol has Facade of the Casa de la Panadería, on the Coello. The Sala de Tapices
witnessed many important Plaza Mayor contains stunning tapestries,
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
MADRID 275
BAR
QUI
L A
LLO
C A
A L
E D E
L L
C A
CALLE
DEL M
Banco de
ARQUE
P R A D O
D E L
ZOR
RIL
LA
PA S E O
Tourist
information
. Museo Thyssen-
Bornemisza Diputados, home of
ZA
D
Petrus Christus’s Our Lady the Spanish parliament, E
NEPTUNO
of the Dry Tree (c.1450) is witnessed the country’s
one of many early Flemish transition from dictatorship
works in this excellent art to democracy. Museo del
collection (see p281). Prado
The Plaza de Neptuno is Hotel Palace
0 meters 100 dominated by a sculpted
0 yards 100 fountain of the god Neptune
in his chariot.
Palacio de Linares
This grandly decorated
late 19th-century palace
now houses the Casa de
América, an organization
that promotes Latin
American culture.
L
former gateway into the
A
A
city is especially beautiful
L
P
when floodlit at night.
A L A
A L C
PL D E IN
L E
A C A L D
A
CI E P I
E N D E N C
Z
A
CALLE DE ALFONSO XI
B
E
DE
L
ES
X I I
CALL
E DE
M O N TA L B A N
A L F O N S O
D E
I O M AU R A
C A L L E A N TO N de Artes Decorativas
EALT
CALLE FELIPE IV
The Monumento del Dos de
Mayo commemorates the War of
Independence against the French.
The Hotel Ritz, with
its belle-époque
interior, is one of the Salón de Reinos
most elegant hotels Key This part of the old Retiro Palace has
in the whole of Spain. some halls decorated by Velázquez.
Suggested route It is now part of the Prado Museum.
For keys to symbols see back flap
278 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
. Velázquez Collection
The Triumph of Bacchus
(1629), Velázquez’s
first portrayal of
a mythological
subject, shows
the god of wine
(Bacchus) with
a group of
drunkards.
The Martyrdom
of St. Philip
(c.1639)
The Valencian José
de Ribera moved
to Naples as a
young man. He
was influenced by
Caravaggio’s use of
light and shadow,
known as chiaroscuro,
as seen in this work.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Transport
q Atocha, Banco de España.
First floor @ 9, 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37, 45.
. Goya Collection
In The Clothed Maja and The Naked
Maja (both c.1800), Goya tackled the
taboo subject of nudity, for which he
was later accused of obscenity.
Jerónimos
L
of the Prado.
DE
O
LL
SE
E
Sculpture
PA
D
Museum buildings
E
FE
Drawing
LI
PE
IV
Non-exhibition space
280 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Colonnade and statue of Alfonso XII (1901) overlooking the Parque del Retiro’s boating lake
282 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Manolete is
regarded by most
followers of
bullfighting as one
of Spain’s greatest
matadors. He was
finally gored to
death by the bull
The toro bravo (fighting bull), bred for Islero at Linares,
courage and aggression, enjoys a full life Jaén, in 1947.
prior to its time in the ring. Bulls must be at
least four years old before they can fight.
The Bullring
The audience at a bullfight is seated Key
in the tendidos (stalls) or in the Tendidos
palcos (balcony), where the
Palcos
presidencia (president’s box) is
situated. Opposite are the puerta Presidencia
de cuadrillas, through which the Puerta de cuadrillas
matador and team arrive, and the Arrastre de toros
arrastre de toros (exit for bulls).
Before entering the ring, the Callejón
matadors wait in a callejón Barreras
(corridor) behind barreras and Burladeros
burladeros (barriers). Horses are
Patio de caballos
kept in the patio de caballos
and the bulls in the corrales. Corrales
Plan of a typical bullring
284 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
6 Salamanca
Salamanca. * 155,000. k 15 km
(9 miles) E. £ @ n Plaza Mayor 32
(923-21 83 42). ∑ salamanca.es
NA
ZA
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CARDENAL
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This church, with a beautiful LF
Mudéjar tower, houses El D E A AD
LE
CAL
ID
CALLE D
Archbishop’s
Palace
IO
C
R
E
M
O
C
L
E
D
E
L
L
A
C
. Museo de
Santa Cruz
The city’s main fine-arts
collection includes
several tapestries from
O
S
ERO
DEL C ISN
ARDENAL C
Key
Suggested route
. Cathedral
Built on the site of a Visigothic
cathedral and a mosque, this Alcázar
impressive structure is one of the In the central patio of the
largest cathedrals in Christendom fortress is a replica of the
(see p288). The beautiful Gothic statue Carlos V y el Furor. The
high altar reredos (1504) is the original is housed in Madrid’s
work of several artists. Museo del Prado.
For keys to symbols see back flap
288 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Detail from a 13th-century carving decorating the west front of León’s cathedral
290 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Burgos Cathedral
Spain’s third-largest cathedral was founded in 1221 under
Fernando III and was named a UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1984. The groundplan – a Latin cross – measures
84 m (276 ft) by 59 m (194 ft). Its construction was carried
out in several stages over three centuries, involving artists
and architects from across Europe. The style is almost
entirely Gothic, with influences from Germany, France,
and the Low Countries. In the Middle Ages, the cathedral
was a main stopping point for pilgrims on the road to
Santiago (see p292). Burgos’s most celebrated son, the
medieval hero of the Reconquest, El Cid, is buried in
the cathedral, as is his wife. West Front
The lacy, steel-grey spires
soar above a sculpted
balustrade depicting
Castile’s early kings.
. Golden Staircase
Diego de Siloé’s elegant Renaissance
staircase (1519–22) links the nave with
the Gothic Coroneria Gate (kept locked)
at street level.
KEY
Ambulatory
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Several of the reliefs around
the chancel were carved by
Practical Information
Philippe de Bigarny. This
Plaza de Santa María.
expressive scene, which was
Tel 947-20 47 12.
completed in 1499, depicts
Open mid-Mar–Oct:
the road to Calvary.
9:30am–7:30pm daily; Nov–mid-
Mar: 10am–7pm. 5 9am, 10am,
11am, 7:30pm daily; Sun also:
noon (sung), 1pm, 2pm.
&87
. Constable’s Chapel
The tomb of the High Constable of
Castile and his wife lies beneath the
openwork vault of this chapel of 1496.
Sacristy (1765)
The sacristy was rebuilt in
Baroque style, with an
exuberant plasterwork
vault and Rococo altars.
Puerta de la Coronería
The tympanum of this portal
of 1240 shows Christ flanked
by the Evangelists. Statues
of the apostles sit below.
. Crossing
The star-ribbed central
dome, begun in 1539, is
supported by four huge
pillars. It is decorated with
effigies of prophets and
saints. Beneath it is the
tomb of El Cid and his wife.
292 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
w Picos de Europa
Asturias, Cantabria, and Castilla y León.
@ Oviedo to Cangas de Onís. n
Cangas de Onís (985-84 86 14). Fuente
Dé cable car: Tel 942-73 66 10. Open
daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6; Dec 24, 25 & 31.
E Museo Arqueológico
Calle San Vicente 5. Tel 985-20 89 77.
Open Wed–Sun. 7
p Poblet
Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
Montblanc. Tel 977-87 00 89. £ to
L’Espluga de Francolí, then taxi. @
Open 10am–12:45pm, 3–5:30pm
daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. &
and sport, it rivals not only Madrid, but also many of Horta
C 16 (
Gervasi
Games, staged in the Parc de Montjuïc, confirmed this to
E9 )
Sabadell
the world. Although there are many historical monuments Les Corts A2 Gràcia
in the Old Town, the city is best known for the scores of
Sants 7
superb buildings left behind by the artistic explosion of A1
0 km 2
Sights at a Glance
0 miles 2
1 Barcelona Cathedral
2 Museu d’Història de Barcelona Key
3 La Rambla
Area of main map
4 Basílica de Santa Espanya
TINA
5 Museu Picasso NT
IN
SA
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AVD
6 Vila Olímpica
PLAÇA DE
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7 Sagrada Família A
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pp302–3 PLAÇA DEL ULE
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NICA
PASS MARQUES
DE
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DE LA FORONDA
8 Casa Batlló
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Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Cable car line
Motorway
Funicular railway Pedestrian swing bridge in Port Vell, at the end of La Rambla
BARCELONA 297
CARRER
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PLAÇA TRA VES SER A
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d ite Getting Around
Me
The Old Town is well served by metro lines 1, 3, and 4. Jaume I
metro station is in the heart of the Barri Gòtic, and many buses
pass through the Plaça de Catalunya on the edge of the district.
Metro line 5 takes you to the Sagrada Família, a long walk from
other sights. Set atop a steep hill, most of Montjuïc’s attractions
can be reached by buses 13, 50, and 150 from the Plaça
d’Espanya, or by funicular and cable car from Metro Paral.lel.
B I S B E
SANT SE VER
SANT HONOR AT
. Cathedral
The facade and spire are 19th-
century additions to the original
building. The cathedral’s treasures
include medieval Catalan paintings.
Palau de la
Generalitat
The superb Gothic PL AçA DE
features of the SANT JAUME
Catalan Parliament CARRER DE FARRAN C ARRER DE JAUM
include the chapel
and a stone
staircase rising to
IUTAT
an arcaded gallery.
DAGUERIA
DE L A C
La Rambla
C ARRER
RER
CAR
. Conjunt Monumental de
A
3 La Rambla
q Drassanes, Liceu, Catalunya.
4 Basílica de Santa
Maria del Mar
Plaza Sta. Maria 1. Tel 93-310 23 90.
q Jaume I. Open 9am–1:30pm,
4:30–8pm daily (from 10am Sun).
5 Museu Picasso
Carrer Montcada 15–23. Tel 93-256 30
00. q Jaume I. Open 9am–7pm Tue–
Sun (to 9:30pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Jun 24, Dec 25 & 26. & (free
Sun pm & first Sun of month). 8 7
∑ museupicasso.bcn.es
7 Sagrada Família
Europe’s most unconventional church, the Temple Expiatori
de la Sagrada Família is an emblem of a city that likes to think
of itself as individualistic. Full of symbolism inspired by nature
and striving for originality, it is the greatest work of Catalan
architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926). In 1883, a year after
work began on a Neo-Gothic church on the site, he was
given the task of completing it. Gaudí changed everything,
extemporizing as he went along. It became his life’s work
and he lived like a recluse on the site for the last few years
of his life. He is buried in the crypt. By the time of his death,
only one tower on the Nativity facade had been completed,
but several more have since been finished to his original Bell Towers
Eight of the 12 spires, one
plans. After the Civil War, work resumed and continues for each apostle, have been
today, financed by public subscription. built. Each is topped by
Venetian mosaics.
The Finished Church
Gaudí’s initial ambitions have been scaled
down over the years, but the design for
the building’s completion remains
impressive. Still to come is the
central tower, which is to
be encircled by four large
towers representing the
Evangelists. Four towers on
the Glory (south) facade
will match the existing four
on the Passion (west) and
four on the Nativity (east)
facades. An ambulatory –
like an inside-out cloister
– will run round the
outside of the building.
Entrance to Crypt
. Passion Facade
This bleak facade was completed
from 1986 to 2000 by artist Josep
Maria Subirachs. A controversial Main entrance
work, its sculpted figures are
angular and often sinister.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
BARCELONA 303
Transport
q Sagrada Família. @ 19, 33, 34,
50, 51, B20, B24.
. Nativity Facade
The most complete part of Gaudí’s
church has doorways representing
Faith, Hope, and Charity. Scenes of the
Nativity and Christ’s childhood contain
imagery, such as doves, which
symbolize the congregation.
. Crypt
The crypt, where Gaudí is buried and
services are currently held, was begun
by the original architect, Francesc de
Paula Villar i Lozano, in 1882. A small
museum traces the careers of both
architects and the church’s
complicated history.
Nave
In the nave, a forest of fluted pillars
support five galleries above the side aisles,
while stained glass windows let in light.
KEY
w Park Güell
Carrer d’Olot. Tel 902-200 302.
q Lesseps. Open daily. & 8 7
Casa-Museu Gaudí: Tel 93-219 38 11.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Dec 25
& 26 (am). &
o Monestir de Montserrat
Its highest peak rising to 1,236 m (4,055 ft), the “Serrated
Mountain” (mont serrat) is a magnificent setting for
Catalonia’s holiest place, the Monastery of Montserrat,
which is surrounded by chapels and hermits’ caves.
The earliest record of a chapel on this site is from the
9th century. The monastery was founded in the 11th
century. In 1811, when the French attacked Catalonia in
the War of Independence, the monastery was destroyed
and the monks killed. Rebuilt and repopulated in 1844,
it was a beacon of Catalan culture in the Franco years.
Today, Benedictine monks live here. Visitors can hear the
famous male choir singing the Salve Regina and the
Virolai (the Montserrat hymn) at 1pm Monday to Friday,
noon and 6:45pm Sunday (except in July and August),
and from December 26 to January 8.
Montserrat
The complex includes
cafés and a hotel. A
second funicular railway
takes visitors to nature
trails above the monastery.
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
S PA I N 307
Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a richly
enameled altar and paintings
by Catalan artists.
KEY
Aragón to the beaches of the Costa Blanca. The region has Valencia, Spain’s third-largest
many historical sights, including the striking Mudéjar city, is famous for its ceramics,
churches of Zaragoza and the great cathedral of Valencia. and for the spectacular fiesta
The coastal resorts of Eastern Spain are a popular destination, of Las Fallas, marked by the
erection and burning of
as are the Balearic Islands. Mallorca is the most culturally rich elaborate papier-mâché
of the islands, while Menorca is dotted with prehistoric sites. monuments (fallas).
Ibiza is chiefly known for its exuberant nightlife, but Among the city’s finest
Formentera remains largely unspoiled. Mallorquí, a dialect buildings are La Lonja, an
of the Catalan language brought by 13th-century settlers, exquisite Late Gothic hall built
is still widely spoken on the islands. between 1482 and 1498, and
the cathedral (1262) on Plaza
de la Reina. Other monuments
worth visiting include the
Gothic Palau de la Generalitat,
with its splendidly decorated
first-floor chambers, and the
17th-century Basílica de la
Virgen de los Desamparados.
Beyond the city center is the
Torres de Serranos gateway,
erected in 1391.
Valencia has a number of fine
museums. The Museo de Bellas
Artes holds 2,000 paintings and
statues dating from antiquity to
the 19th century, including six
paintings by Goya, while the
Institut Valencià de Art Modern
Cupolas of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Zaragoza (IVAM) displays modern art in a
striking contemporary building.
s Zaragoza styles. Part of the exterior is Valencia’s metro system takes
Zaragoza. * 701,000. k £ @ faced with typical Mudéjar brick tourists to the extensive
n Plaza del Pilar (902-14 20 08). and ceramic decoration, while beaches of El Cabañal and La
( Wed, Sun. inside are a fine Gothic reredos Malvarrosa, east of the city.
and splendid Flemish tapestries.
The Roman settlement of Nearby is the flamboyant P La Lonja
Caesaraugusta gave Zaragoza Mudéjar bell tower of the Plaza del Mercado s/n. Tel 96-352 54
its name. Located on the fertile Iglesia de la Magdalena, and 78 (ext. 4153). Open daily. 8
banks of the Río Ebro, it grew to remains of the Roman forum.
become Spain’s fifth-largest city, Parts of the Roman walls can
and the capital of Aragón. be seen on the opposite side
Badly damaged during the of the Plaza del Pilar near the
early 19th-century War of Mercado de Lanuza, a market
Independence, the old center with sinuous iron-work in Art
nevertheless retains several fine Nouveau style. The Museo
monuments. Overlooking the Camón Aznar houses the
vast Plaza del Pilar is the Basílica eclectic collection of an art
de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. historian, whose special interest
With its 11 brightly tiled was the locally born artist Goya.
cupolas, it is one of the city’s The Alfajería, a beautiful
most impressive sights. 11th-century Moorish palace
Also on the square are the with gardens and a mosque, lies
Gothic-Plateresque Lonja on the main road to Bilbao.
(commodities exchange),
the Palacio Episcopal, and E Museo Camón Aznar
Zaragoza’s cathedral, La Seo, Calle Espoz y Mina 23. Tel 976-39 73 Effigy burning in Valencia during the
which displays a great mix of 87. Open Tue–Sun. 7 annual fiesta of Las Fallas
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
S PA I N 309
Entrance
KEY
To the Generalife
Plan of the Alhambra
Main gate
Key
Palacios Nazaríes
(shown above)
Palace of Charles V
The Alhambra complex includes Alcazaba
the Casas Reales, the 13th-century
Gardens
Alcazaba, the 16th-century Palace of
Charles V, and the Generalife (see p310), Iglesia de Santa Maria
which is located just off the map. Other buildings
314 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
b Cádiz
Cádiz. * 123,200. £ @ n Paseo
de Canalejas (956-24 10 01) or Avda
Ramón de Carranza (956-28 56 01).
KEY
Expansion of
the Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the
original mosque. Extensions
were added by Abd al
Rahman II, al Hakam II,
and al Mansur.
Key to Additions
Original mosque (785–787)
Added by Abd al Rahman II (833)
Added by al Hakam II (c.961)
Added by al Mansur (c.987–90)
Patio de los Naranjos
Cathedral
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Part of the mosque
was destroyed to
Practical Information
accommodate the
C/Cardenal Herrero 1. Tel 957 47
cathedral, begun in
05 12. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
1523. Featuring an
8:30–11:30am, 3–7pm Sun (winter:
Italianate dome, it
8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–
was designed chiefly
11:30am & 3–6pm Sun). & (free
by members of the
8:30–9:30am Mon–Sat). 5 9:30am
Hernán Ruiz family.
Mon–Sat, noon & 1:30pm Sun. 7
. Mihrab
This prayer niche,
richly ornamented, . Capilla de Villaviciosa
held a gilded copy The first Christian chapel was
of the Koran. The worn built in the mosque in 1371
flagstones indicate where by Mudéjar craftsmen (see
pilgrims circled it seven p311). Its multi-lobed arches
times on their knees. are stunning.
318 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
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0 meters 50
P Real Alcázar
Patio de Banderas. Tel 95-450 23 24.
Open 9:30am–7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to
5pm); Jul & Aug: also open at night for
concerts. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Good Fri,
Sep 25. & ∑ alcazarsevilla.org
In 1364, Pedro I of Castile
ordered the construction of
a royal residence within the Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables
For hotels and restaurants see pp330–32 and pp333–5
SEVILLE 321
Flamenco
More than just a dance,
flamenco is an artistic
expression of the joys and
sorrows of life. A uniquely
Andalusian art, its origins are
hard to trace. Gypsies may
have been the main creators
of the art, mixing their own
Indian-influenced culture
with existing Moorish and
Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Andalusian folklore, and with
Jewish and Christian music.
added until 1760. The gold in the for this park. Its most extravagant Gypsies were already living in
tower’s name may refer to the feature is the semicircular Plaza Andalusia by the early Middle
gilded azulejos (ceramic tiles) that de España, designed by Aníbal Ages, but only in the 18th
once clad its walls, or to treasures González. At the center of the century did flamenco begin
from the Americas unloaded park, the Pabellón Mudéjar to develop into its present
here. It now houses the Museo houses the Museo de Artes y form. There are many styles
Marítimo, which exhibits Costumbres Populares, with of cante (song) from different
maritime maps and antiques. displays of traditional parts of Andalusia,
Andalusian folk arts. but no strict
P Plaza de Toros de la choreography –
Maestranza P Setas de Sevilla dancers
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12. (Metropol Parasol) (bailaores)
Tel 95-421 03 15. Open daily. Plaza de la Encarnación. Tel 606-63 improvise from
Closed for bullfights, Dec 25. & 8 52 14. Open daily. basic movements,
∑ setasdesevilla.com following the
Built between 1761 and 1881, rhythm of the guitar
Seville’s famous bullring seats These huge mushroom- and their feelings.
up to 14,000 spectators. Visitors shaped parasols, designed by
can take a guided tour and German architect Jürgen
explore the small museum. Mayer, are topped with a Flamenco dancer
Between Easter and October, mirador (viewing platform) (bailaora)
bullfights are held on Sunday and panoramic restaurant,
evening. Tickets can be bought while underneath there
at the bullring or online at www. are Roman and medieval
plazadetoroslamaestranza.com. ruins (visible in the Antiquarium
museum), shops, and a market.
E Museo de Bellas Artes
Plaza del Museo 9. Tel 955-54 29 42. R Monasterio de Santa buried in the crypt of its church
Open 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, María de las Cuevas between 1507 and 1542. The
10am–5pm Sun. & 7 Calle Americo Vespucio 2, Isla de monastery stands at the heart
The magnificent Convento de la Cartuja. Tel 95-503 70 70. Open of the Isla de Cartuja, the site of
la Merced Calzada houses one 11am–9pm Tue–Sat, Sun am. & (free Expo ’92, and also houses the
of Spain’s best art museums. Sat). 8 by prior appt only. 7 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo,
Delightful tree-filled patios, This 15th-century Carthusian with its collection of Spanish and
colorful azulejos, and a church monastery was inhabited by international art. The Isla Mágica
with a beautiful Baroque painted monks until 1836. Columbus lay theme park is also nearby.
ceiling make this a wonderful
setting for the fine works of art.
The museum’s collection of
Spanish art and sculpture –
which covers all periods from
the medieval to the modern –
focuses on the work of the
Seville School artists. Among
the star attractions are
masterpieces by Murillo, Juan
de Valdés Leal, and Zurbarán.
individual emergency services. providing a booking service for Visa and Mastercard
For emergency medical treat accessible hotels. are accepted in most places.
ment, call 112 for an ambulance,
or go to the nearest hospital
emergency room (urgencias). Language and Etiquette Communications
The Spanish commonly greet Several serviceproviders in
and say goodbye to strangers at Spain, including Movistar,
Health Issues bus stops and in stores and Vodafone, Orange, and Yoigo,
Spanish pharmacists have wide other public places. People offer mobile and internet
responsibilities. They can advise shake hands or kiss each other services. You can buy SIMs or
and, in certain cases, prescribe on the cheek when introduced purchase payasyougo
without consulting a doctor and whenever they meet. In mobiles at El Corte Inglés stores,
(antibiotics not included). In a Catalonia and the Basque branches of the Phone House,
nonemergency, a farmaceútico country, regional languages at their own shops, or online.
is a good person to see first. are as much in use as the Airports, most hotels, and
It is usually easy to find one national tongue, which is several cafés and bars offer free
who speaks English. Castilian Spanish. or inexpensive WiFi for those
The pharmacy (farmacia) sign traveling with their own devices.
is a green or red illuminated There are very few phone boxes,
cross. Those open at night are Banking and Currency but you can make inexpensive
listed in the windows of all the The Spanish unit of currency international phone calls from
local pharmacies. is the euro (see p23). Generally, public telephone offices, which
banks are open from 8am to are called locutorios and usually
2pm Monday to Friday. Some found near train stations.
Facilities for the Disabled branches are also open on The Spanish postal service,
The Spanish National Tourist Thursday afternoon. Some Correos, provides an efficient
Office has a number of useful have a foreign exchange desk service, and there are also
publications in English for with the sign Cambio or courier firms for urgent
disabled travelers, many of Extranjero. Take some form communications. The main
which are downloadable from of ID when changing money. Correos offices open from
their website. Most city tourist Bureaux de change charge 8:30am to 8:30pm Monday to
websites also offer a range of higher rates of commission, Friday and from 9am to 2pm
useful materials for disabled but are open longer hours. Saturday. Conveniently, you will
travelers. Viajes Ilunion offers The best rate is to be found find that stamps for letters and
accessible vacations in by withdrawing cash from postcards can also be bought
Spain and abroad, as well as an ATM or paying by credit card. from an estanco.
DIRECTORY
Spanish National Tourist Offices Floor, 28046 Madrid. Police
Tourist Offices in Spain Tel 91353 66 00. Tel 112.
Abroad
Canada
Barcelona Ambulance
Canada Torre Espacio, Paseo
Plaça de Catalunya 17–S, Tel 112.
de la Castellana 259D,
2 Bloor West, 08002 Barcelona. 28046 Madrid.
Suite 3402, Toronto, Tel 93285 38 34. Fire Brigade
Tel 91382 84 00.
ON, M4W 3E2. (Bomberos)
Madrid UK
Tel 416961 31 31. Tel 112.
Plaza Mayor 27, 28012 Torre Espacio, Paseo
Madrid. Tel 91454 44 10. de la Castellana 259D,
UK Facilities for the
∑ esmadrid.com 28046 Madrid.
64 North Row, Disabled
Tel 91714 63 00.
London W1K 7DE. Seville
Avenida de la US Spanish National
Tel 0207317 2011.
Calle Serrano 75,
∑ spain.info
Constitución 21b, Tourist Office
28006 Madrid.
41004 Seville. ∑ spain.info/en/
Tel 91587 22 00.
US Tel 95478 75 78.
informacion-practica/
60 East 42nd St, Emergency
Embassies turismo-accesible
Suite 5300 (53rd floor), Numbers
New York, NY 101650039. Australia Viajes Ilunion
Emergency:
Tel 212265 8822. Torre Espacio, Paseo de All Services Tel 90220 00 11.
∑ spain.info la Castellana 259D, 24th Tel 112 (most large cities). ∑ viajes.ilunion.com
324 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Basque country has the ET throughout Spain. Other drivers to carry at all times
(Eusko Trenbideale). Iberrail companies operate in valid insurance and registration
holidays offer rail-plus-hotel particular regions. Tickets and documents, a driver’s license,
deals for traveling between information for long-distance and ID such as a passport.
Spanish cities. RENFE operates travel are available at main bus
two luxury train services similar stations and from travel agents.
to the Orient Express: El Ferry Services
Transcántabrico, which operates Two car ferry routes link the
in northern Spain, and El Traveling by Road Spanish mainland with the
Andalus, which offers itineraries Spain’s fastest roads are its UK. Brittany Ferries sails from
in Andalucia, Extremadura, and autopistas. They are normally Plymouth and Portsmouth
northern Spain. They also offer dual carriageways subject to in the UK to Santander in
other tourist trains, such as El peajes (tolls). Autovías are similar, Cantabria, and from Portsmouth
Expreso de la Robla and the but have no tolls. Smaller roads to Bilbao. The crossings take
Tren de Cervantes, themed are less well kept but are a more more than 24 hours. Advance
around landmarks significant to relaxed way to see rural Spain. reservations are essential in
the writer in Alcala de Henares. All the major international the summer.
car rental companies are Trasmediterránea runs
represented in Spain. The best car ferry services from
Long-distance Buses deals are accessed through the Barcelona and Valencia on
Spain has no national long- companies’ websites. There are the Spanish mainland to the
distance bus company. The also fly-drive package deals, Balearic Islands. The crossing
largest private company, which include car rental. takes about eight hours. The
Alsa, offers a variety of bus Gasolina (gas) is priced by the same company also operates
tours and sightseeing trips liter. Spanish law requires frequent inter-island services.
DIRECTORY
Iberia and Monarch Bus Companies Car Rental
Affiliates ∑ monarch.co.uk
Alsa Avis
International and Ryanair Tel 902-18 08 54.
Tel 902-42 22 42.
domestic flights ∑ ryanair.com Tel 0808-284 0014 (UK).
∑ alsa.es
Tel 901-100 500. United Airlines ∑ avis.com
Tel 02-036 843 774 (UK). ∑ united.com Eurolines Budget
Tel 800-772 4642 (US). Tel 902-40 50 40. Tel 902-11 25 85.
Vueling
∑ iberia.com Tel 807-001 717. Tel 0871-781 81 77 (UK). ∑ budget.es
∑ vueling.com ∑ eurolines.es Europcar
Other Airlines
∑ eurolines.com Tel 902-10 50 30.
Madrid Tours
Air Europa Tel 0871-384 10 87 (UK).
Tel 902-401 501. Madrid City Tour Bus Stations ∑ europcar.com
∑ aireuropa.com ∑ madridcitytour.es
Hertz
Madrid
American Airlines Rail Travel Tel 902-40 24 05.
Estación Sur (for whole Tel 0870-844 8844 (UK).
Tel 902-054 654.
ET of Spain). ∑ hertz.es
Tel 800-433 7300 (US).
Tel 902-54 32 10. Tel 91-468 42 00. ∑ hertz.co.uk
∑ aa.com
∑ euskotren.es
British Airways Intercambiador des Ferry Services
FGC
Tel 912-754 779. Autobuses
Tel 93-205 15 15. Brittany Ferries
Tel 08444-930 787 (UK). ∑ fgc.cat (for northern Spain).
Tel 902-10 81 47.
Tel 800-247 92 97 (US). Tel 902-42 22 42.
FGV Tel 01752-648 000 (UK).
∑ britishairways.com
Tel 961-92 40 00. ∑ brittany-ferries.com
Barcelona
Delta Air Lines ∑ fgv.es
Trasmediterránea
Estació del Nord.
Tel 902-81 08 72. Iberrail Tel 902-45 46 45.
Tel 902-26 06 06.
Tel 800-241 41 41 (US). ∑ iberrail.es Tel 0844-576 8845 (UK).
∑ delta.com Seville ∑ trasmediterranea.es
RENFE
easyJet Tel 902-32 03 20. Estación Plaza de Armas.
∑ easyjet.com ∑ renfe.es Tel 902-45 05 50.
326 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
cheeses. Among the preserves good selection of hand-painted traditional hat makers in Spain
and sweets of Spain, Seville fans. Guitarras de Luthier sells is the Sombrerería Herederos
marmalade is famous. The handmade guitars. Some de J. Russi in Córdoba.
delicious almond-based traditional crafts originated with
nougat, called turrón, is eaten the Moors, such as Toledo’s
at Christmas, but can be filigree metalwork and the Household and
bought all year from food azulejos (ceramic tiles) of Kitchen Goods
stores around the country. Andalusia. Cántaro, near the Department stores have a good
Wine can be bought by the Plaza de España in Madrid, La selection of household goods,
liter at a bodega (local wine Caixa de Fang in Barcelona, but the ferreterías (small
store). It can also be purchased and Ceramica Triana in Seville hardware shops) often have
directly from vineyards (also all sell ceramics. the more authentic selection.
called bodegas), but you may Catalan-style espadrilles are Traditional pottery, such as red
need an appointment. another popular buy. La Manual clay cazuelas (dishes) that can
Spain’s most famous vine- Alpargatera in Barcelona makes be used in the oven and on
growing regions are La Rioja them by hand on the premises the hob are inexpensive. Paella
and Navarra, Penedés, home and sells them in a wide range pans have always been made
of cava (sparkling wine), of colors. of iron or enamel, but now
Valdepeñas, Ribera del Duero, Lace from the villages of the come in stainless steel or with
and Jerez, the sherry region. Sierra de Gata in Extremadura non-stick finishes. Table linen
and Galicia’s Costa da Morte is is often a bargain on market
prized. Spanish linen and silk stands. Spanish lighting design
Traditional Crafts shawls can be purchased from is widely admired and sold
Authentic items, such as guitars, Borca, off the Puerta del Sol in in lampisterías. Traditional
fans, castanets, and flamenco Madrid. In Barcelona, L’Arca de wrought-iron goods, such
shoes, are sold in major cities. l’Avia sells antique silk and lace. as candlesticks and door
Madrid’s Casa de Diego has a One of the most celebrated hardware, are always popular.
DIRECTORY
Department Victorio & Lucchino Traditional Crafts La Manual
Stores Calle de las Sierpes 87, Alpargatera
Seville.
L’Arca de l’Avia
El Corte Inglés Carrer dels Banys Nous 20, Calle d’Avinyó 7,
Calle de Preciados 1–3, Tel 95-422 79 51.
Barcelona. Barcelona.
Madrid. Tel 93-302 15 98. Tel 93-301 01 72.
Tel 90-112 21 22. Leather Goods
∑ elcorteingles.es Borca Sombrerería
Loewe
Plaça Catalunya 14, Calle del Marqués Viudo Herederos de J. Russi
Calle de Serrano 26,
Barcelona. de Pontejos 2, Madrid.
Madrid. Cde Cardenas 1, Córdoba.
Tel 93-306 38 00. Tel 91-532 61 53.
Tel 91-577 60 56. Tel 957-47 79 53.
Plaza Duque de la Victoria La Caixa de Fang
Plaza Nueva 12, Seville.
10, Seville.
Tel 95-422 52 53. Calle Freneria 1,
Tel 95-459 70 00.
Barcelona.
Lupo Tel 93-315 17 04.
Clothing Stores Passeig de Gràcia 124,
Adolfo Domínguez Barcelona. Cántaro
Calle de Serrano 5, Tel 935-19 40 00. Calle de la Flor
Madrid. Baja 8, Madrid.
Paco Martínez Tel 91-547 95 14.
Tel 91-577 47 44.
Passeig de Gràcia 32, Calle Mayor 6, Madrid.
Tel 915-23 81 82. Casa de Diego
Barcelona.
Calle Mesonero Romanos
Tel 93-487 41 70.
Markets 4, Madrid.
Agatha Ruiz de la Tel 91-531 02 23.
Prada La Boqueria
La Rambla 100, Barcelona. Ceramica Triana
Calle de Serrano 27, Calle Antillano Campos
Madrid. Encants Vells 14, Seville.
Tel 91-319 05 01. Plaça de les Glòries Tel 954-33 21 79.
Santa Eulàlia Catalanes, Barcelona.
Passeig de Gràcia 93, Guitarras de Luthier
Barcelona. El Rastro Calle Doctor Mata 1,
Tel 932-15 06 74. Calle de la Ribera de Madrid.
∑ santaeulalia.com Curtidores, Madrid. Tel 91-468 19 54.
328 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
stirring songs in the bars of Outdoor Activities and canoeing, a wide variety
another of the city’s districts, For information on horseback of watersports is possible in
Triana. One of the best-known riding and pony trekking in Spain. Jet skis and windsurfing
flamenco venues in Granada most regions, contact the Real equipment are available to
is in the gypsy caves of Federación Hípica Española or rent in many coastal resorts.
Sacromonte (see p310). local Spanish tourist offices. Information about sailing can
Picturesque minor roads be obtained from the Real
in many parts of Spain are Federación Española de Vela.
Special Interest Vacations excellent for cycle-touring. Spain has an abundance of
All tourist offices in Spain can Walking tours are also popular. top-quality golf courses. The
provide details of special The Federación Española de Real Federación Española de
interest vacations. Cookery, Montaña y Escalada can Golf will give locations and
wine, and painting courses, as provide information about more detailed information. In
well as history and archaeology climbing and many other most tourist areas, there are
tours, are popular. Nature lovers mountain sports. tennis courts for rental by the
and hikers head for Spain’s Spain’s most popular resorts hour. Travel agents arrange
many national parks. for downhill skiing are the Vall tennis holidays for enthusiasts.
Information about Spanish d’Aran in Catalonia and the More information is available
language courses is provided by Sierra Nevada, near Granada. from the Real Federación
the Instituto Cervantes. As well as white-water rafting Española de Tenis.
DIRECTORY
Tickets Teatro de la Zarzuela Bullfighting Real Federación
Calle de Jovellanos 4, Española de Golf
Entradas.com Madrid. Tel 91-524 54 00. Plaza de Toros
Tel 902-48 84 88 (Madrid). de la Maestranza Calle Arroyo del Monte 5,
Theater Paseo de Cristóbal Cólon 28035 Madrid.
El Corte Inglés 12, Seville. Tel 915-55 26 82.
Tel 902-22 44 11 (Madrid). Teatre Nacional Tel 954-22 45 77.
∑ elcorteingles.es ∑ rfegolf.es
de Catalunya
Plaza de Toros
Plaça de les Arts 1, de las Ventas Real Federación
TEYCI
Barcelona. Calle de Alcalá 237,
Madrid. Española de Tenis
Tel 93-306 57 00. Madrid. Tel 917-24 02 51.
∑ ticketstoros.com Passeig Olimpic 17,
Teatro de la Comedia 08038 Barcelona.
Ticketea
Calle del Príncipe 14,
Flamenco
Tel 902 044 226 Tel 93-200 53 55.
Madrid. Tel 91-521 49 31. Café de Chinitas
∑ ticketea.com ∑ rfet.es
Teatro María Calle de Torija 7, Madrid.
Tiquet Rambles Tel 91-547 15 02. Real Federación
Guerrero
La Rambla 99, Barcelona. Casa Patas
Calle de Tamayo y Baus 4, Española de Vela
∑ tiquetrambles. Calle de Cañizares 10,
Madrid. Tel 91-310 94 31. Calle Luis Salazar 9,
bcn.cat Madrid. Tel 91-369 04 96.
Teatro Muñoz Seca 28002 Madrid.
Opera and Plaza del Carmen 1, Special Interest Tel 91-519 50 08.
Zarzuela Madrid. Tel 91-523 21 28. Vacations ∑ rfev.es
Where to Stay
OLD MADRID: Las Meninas € Price Guide
Madrid Boutique Map B4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
C/Campomanes 7, 28013
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-41 28 05
Hotel Liabeny €€ ∑ hotelmeninas.es € up to €130
Boutique Map C4 This small but delightful hotel on €€ €130 to €240
€€€ over €240
C/de la Salud 3, 28013 a tranquil street boasts rooms
Tel 915-31 90 00 with polished wooden floors and
∑ liabeny.es charming contemporary decor. OLD TOWN: Bonic Barcelona €
Classically decorated rooms and B&B Map D4
a surprisingly long list of facilities OLD MADRID: Hotel Petit Josep Anselm Clavé 9, 08002
– including a sauna, restaurant, Palace Ducal €€ Tel 626-05 34 34
and gym – for the price. Historic Map D3 ∑ bonic-barcelona.com
C/Hortaleza 3, 28004 A little charmer of a B&B in the
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-21 10 43 Gothic Quarter, with individually
Iberostar Las Letras €€ ∑ hotelpetitpalaceducalchueca.com designed rooms, delightful staff,
Boutique Map D3 Set in a handsomely converted and lots of thoughtful extras.
Gran Vía 11, 28013 19th-century mansion, this is a
Tel 915-23 79 80 smart, modern hotel in the heart
∑ hoteldelasletras.com of the fashionable Chueca district. DK Choice
An elegant hotel with rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Espanya €€
dedicated to famous writers, and Historic Map D3
a stunning rooftop bar and terrace Sant Pau 9–11, 08001
that offers tremendous views. Barcelona Tel 935-50 00 00
∑ hotelespanya.com.
EIXAMPLE: Hotel Actual €€ This beautifully restored
DK Choice Boutique Map D3 Modernista gem dates back
BOURBON MADRID: Ritz €€€ Rosselló 238, 08008 to 1859, and combines
Luxury Map E4 Tel 935-52 05 50 contemporary furnishings with
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 ∑ hotelactual.com beautiful details, including
Tel 917-01 67 67 This chic hotel in the center has superb frescoes by Montaner.
∑ ritzmadrid.com minimalist rooms decorated in There is a fabulous restaurant,
A belle époque-style gem monochromatic tones. Free Wi-Fi. a bar with a fireplace, and a
located right next to the Prado, gorgeous roof terrace.
the Ritz boasts an opulent
interior and the air of another DK Choice
century; it even imposes a dress EIXAMPLE: Alma €€€ OLD TOWN: Hotel Mercer €€€
code after 11am. The superb Boutique Map F2 Luxury Map D3
bar is where luminaries such as Mallorca 271, 08008 Lledó 7, 08002
Dalí and Lorca once held court. Tel 932-16 44 90 Tel 933-10 74 80
Excellent service. ∑ almabarcelona.com ∑ mercerbarcelona.com
Housed in a fashionable Chic and intimate, this ravishing
townhouse, this hotel oozes hotel occupies a restored historic
OLD MADRID: Abracadabra € elegance and is famed for its mansion. Roof terrace with a
B&B service. Some of the original plunge pool, and a shaded patio.
C/Bailen 39, 28005 19th-century details have
Tel 656-85 97 84 been preserved, but the rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Neri €€€
∑ abracadabrabandb.com are chic and minimalist. The Boutique Map D3
Friendly B&B near the Royal Palace. glorious secret courtyard Sant Sever 5, 08002
Rooms are furnished with esoteric and stylish roof terrace are Tel 933-04 06 55
objects from around the world. ideal spots for relaxing. ∑ hotelneri.com
Delicious, generous breakfasts. Enchanting hideaway, with a
superb restaurant, in an 18th-
century palace located in the
Gothic Quarter.
Northern Spain
BILBAO: Miró Hotel €€
Boutique
Alameda Mazarredo, 77, 48009
Tel 946-61 18 80
∑ mirohotelbilbao.com
Designed by Antonio Miró, this
minimalist luxury hotel is just steps
from the famous Guggenheim
Museum. There is a wellness
The regal interiors at the Ritz, Madrid center and a library on site.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 331
CORTES DE LA FRONTERA :
Casa Rural €
Inn
Bda El Colmenar, 29490
Tel 952-15 30 46
∑ ahoraya.es
Chic, rural hideaway nestled
in a valley. Health facilities
include Turkish massages,
a spa, and clay treatments. An antique-filled room at Casa Rural, in Cortes de la Frontera
Key to Price Guide see page 330
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 333
DK Choice
Colorful artworks in the dining room at Delic, Madrid OLD TOWN: Kaiku €
Mediterranean Map D4
dishes, fresh seafood, and Plaça del Mar 1, 08003
Madrid Catalan specialties, such as Tel 932-21 90 82 Closed Sun
calçots (leek-like vegetables). dinner; Mon; dinner mid-Sep–
BOURBON MADRID: mid-May; Aug
Bar Tomate €€ OLD MADRID: This deceptively simple-looking
Mediterranean Map D2 Bodegas La Ardosa € restaurant serves fantastic
C/Fernando el Santo 26, 28046 Tapas Map C3 dishes prepared with smoked
Tel 917-02 38 70 C/Colón 13, 28004 rice and homegrown
A fashionable spot for market- Tel 915-21 49 79 vegetables. Excellent desserts.
fresh dishes like tuna tartare An old-fashioned tapas bar to
with guacamole or hake with enjoy salmorejo cordobés – a
olives and tomatoes. The airy, chilled tomato and almond soup OLD TOWN: Lo de Flor €
loft-style interior has big wooden – and other traditional staples. Mediterranean
tables, perfect for groups. Carretes 18, 08001
Tel 934-42 38 53 Closed Tue; 2 wks
BOURBON MADRID: DK Choice Aug
Café Gijón €€ OLD MADRID: Delic € A romantic, rustic restaurant with
Café Map D3 Café Map B4 minimalist decor and a short but
C/Paseo de Recoletos 21, 28004 Plaza de la Paja s/n, 28005 well-chosen wine list. Dinner only.
Tel 915-21 54 25 Tel 913-64 54 50 Closed Mon &
One of Madrid’s famous literary Tue (for events) OLD TOWN: Senyor Parellada €
cafés, established in 1887. Gijón A hip favorite on a charming Mediterranean Map E3
serves classic dishes in a dining square, Delic is perfect for a lazy Argenteria 37, 08003
room or on the large terrace. breakfast or a tasty light lunch – Tel 933-10 50 94
try the leek tart or the Japanese Enjoy modern Mediterranean
BOURBON MADRID: dumplings. With wonderful fare in this elegant restaurant
La Casa del Abuelo €€ tarts, muffins, and brownies, it in a 19th-century townhouse.
Tapas Map C4 is also a great stop for tea and
C/Victoria 12, 28012 cake in the afternoon. Later in OLD TOWN: Pla €€
Tel 910-00 01 33 the evening, come for cocktails Fusion Map D3
La Casa del Abuelo (grandfather’s and occasional live music. Bellafila 5, 08002
house) specializes in delicious Tel 934-12 65 52 Closed lunch
prawns served with a local sweet This reliably good dinner spot
wine, plus a range of tasty tapas. OLD MADRID: Naïa €€ offers deftly prepared fusion
Modern Spanish Map B4 food in stylish surroundings.
BOURBON MADRID: Plaza de la Paja 3, 28005
Estado Puro €€ Tel 913-66 27 83 Closed Mon OLD TOWN: Dos Palillos €€€
Gourmet tapas Map C4 This chic bistro is popular with Fusion Map D3
Hotel NH Palacio de Tepa, Plaza del actors and artists. Dishes on offer Elisabets 9, 08001
Angel 9, 28012 might include a spicy monkfish Tel 933-04 05 13 Closed Tue & Wed
Tel 914-29 98 17 and scallop stew, or cod with lunch; Sun & Mon; late Dec–early
Super-stylish spot with gourmet oranges and black olives. Jan, 3 wks Aug
tapas by celebrated chef Paco Ultra-chic yet relaxed, this eatery
Roncero, who brilliantly reinvents with a Michelin star serves up
classic recipes, such as buñuelos spectacular Asian fusion tapas.
de bacalao (cod puffs). Barcelona
OLD TOWN: Koy Shunka €€€
BOURBON MADRID: OLD TOWN: Can Culleretes € Japanese Map D3
Paradis de Madrid €€ Traditional Regional Map D3 C/Copons 7, 08002
Mediterranean Map D4 Quintana 5, 08002 Tel 934-12 79 39 Closed Sun dinner;
C/Marqués de Cubas 14, 28014 Tel 933-17 30 22 Closed Sun dinner; Mon; Aug
Tel 914-29 73 03 Mon; mid-Jul–mid-Aug Arguably the best Japanese
At Paradis de Madrid, guests dine Barcelona’s oldest restaurant, Can restaurant in the city, Koy Shunka
on delicious Mediterranean rice Culleretes is great for classics boasts an adventurous menu.
334 S PA I N
SEGOVIA: Restaurante
Northern Spain José María €€
Regional
LAREDO: La Marina Company € C/Cronista Lecea 11, 40001
Seafood Tel 921-46 11 11
Calle Zamanillo, 39770 Come here to savor chef José
Tel 942-60 63 35 María’s unique take on Segovian
The place for well-executed, staples. Try the roast suckling pig.
simple traditional fare. Excellent-
value set-menu options.
DK Choice
NOJA: Restaurante Sambal €€ ZAFRA: El Acebuche €
Fine Dining Regional
Calle el Arenal, 39180 Santa Marina, 3, 06300
Tel 942-63 15 31 Closed Oct–May: Tel 924-55 33 20
dinner Sun–Thu Housed in a historic building
Gourmet dining accompanied by with modern decor, this
fine views. Terrace seating in good restaurant offers traditional
weather and an excellent wine list. A much-coveted table at the Michelin- food with contemporary
starred Celler de Can Roca, Girona influences. The adjoining tapas
PAMPLONA: Café Bar Gaucho € bar serves lighter fare.
Regional VALENCIA: L’Estimat €€
Calle de Espoz y Mina 7, 31002 Seafood
Tel 948-22 50 73 Avda de Neptuno 16, 46011
This small, buzzing place is one Tel 963-71 10 18 Closed Mon & Sun
of Pamplona’s best pintxo (small dinner; Tue Southern Spain
snack) bars, with a huge variety One of the best seafood spots on
of flavorsome dishes. Cash only. the entire Valencia beachfront, ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €
L’Estimat has a wide selection Traditional
SAN SEBASTIAN: Arzak €€€ of set menus, plus excellent à la Avda Agua Marina 5, 11203
Modern Regional carte choices. Tel 956-66 73 79 Closed Mon
Alcalde José Elosegui 273, 20015 Traditional restaurant with indoor
Tel 943-28 55 93 Closed Sun & Mon; ZARAGOZA: Palomeque € and terrace dining. Offerings
Jun 15–Jul 2 & Nov 2–26 Spanish include Galician-style octopus
The iconic eatery of living legend C/ Agustín Palomeque 11, 50004 and charcoal-grilled sirloin steaks.
Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Tel 976-21 40 82 Closed Sun
Elena, who was voted the World’s Come here for tapas in the CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato €€€
Best Female Chef in 2012. morning and more substantial Seafood
meals for lunch and dinner – all Via Augusta Julia, 11011
presented with sheer artistry. Tel 956-25 00 25 Closed Sun dinner
(except Aug)
Catalonia & This 18th-century seaside inn
Eastern Spain specializes in fish. Try the sea
Central Spain bream baked in a salt crust.
Murals and delicious banquettes add to the cozy feel at La Paloma, Ibiza
THE IBERIAN PENINSULA 337
PORTUGAL
Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, pretty fishing villages, and
manicured golf courses of the Algarve. But beyond the south-coast resorts lies
the least-explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
ancient cities with proud traditions, and quiet rural backwaters.
Portugal appears to have no obvious most famous product – port wine, grown
geographical claim to nationhood, yet on steeply terraced vineyards hewn out of
the country has existed within borders mountainsides in the wild upper reaches
virtually unchanged for nearly 800 years, of the Douro valley.
making it one of the oldest nation states
in Europe. Its ten million people are History
proudly independent from, and distrustful The Romans, who arrived in 216 BC, called
of, neighboring Spain. the whole peninsula Hispania, but the
For a small country, the regions of region between the Douro and Tagus
Portugal are immensely varied. The rivers was named Lusitania after the
rural Minho and Trás-os-Montes in the Celtiberian tribe that lived there. After
north are the most traditional. Over the the collapse of the Roman Empire in the
last few decades, many inhabitants of 5th century, Hispania was overrun first
these neglected regions have been by Germanic tribes, then by Moors from
forced to emigrate in search of work. North Africa in 711.
At the same time, the Algarve, with Reconquest by the Christian kingdoms
its beautiful sandy beaches and warm of the north began in earnest in the 11th
Mediterranean climate, has become century. In the process, Portucale, a small
a vacation playground for Northern county of the kingdom of León and
Europeans, as well as the Portuguese Castile, was declared an independent
themselves. Lisbon, the capital, at the kingdom by its ruler, Afonso Henriques, in
mouth of the Tagus, is a cosmopolitan 1139. With the aid of English crusaders, he
metropolis with a rich cultural life. Oporto succeeded in recapturing Lisbon in 1147.
is a serious rival, especially in terms of The kingdom expanded south to the
commerce and industry, and is the center Algarve, and Portuguese sailors began to
for the production and export of Portugal’s explore the African coast and the Atlantic.
Portugal’s golden age reached its zenith in Absolutists and Constitutionalists struggled
the reign of Manuel I, with Vasco da Gama’s for power, until, in 1910, a republican
voyage to India in 1498 and the discovery revolution overthrew the monarchy.
of Brazil in 1500. The era also produced The weakness of the economy led to a
the one uniquely Portuguese style of military coup in 1926 and a long period of
architecture: the Manueline. dictatorship. António
Trade with the East brought Salazar, who held power
great wealth, but military from 1932 to 1968, rid the
defeat in Morocco meant country of its debts, but
that the prosperity was poverty was widespread
short-lived. Spain invaded in and all opposition
1580 and ruled Portugal for banned. The country was
the next 60 years. a virtual recluse in the
After Portugal regained world community, the
independence, its fortunes prime concern of foreign
were restored by gold from policy being the defense
Brazil. In the late 18th century, of its African and Asian
the chief minister, the Manuel I (reigned 1495–1521), who made vast colonies. The bloodless
Marquês de Pombal, famous profits from Portugal’s spice trade Carnation Revolution
for rebuilding Lisbon after ended the dictatorship
the 1755 earthquake, began to modernize in 1974, and full democracy was restored
the country. However, Napoleon’s invasion in 1976. Since its entry into the European
in 1807 and the loss of Brazil in 1825 left Community in 1986, Portugal has enjoyed
Portugal impoverished and divided. rapid economic growth and assumed the
self-confident attitude of a modern
KEY DATES IN PORTUGUESE HISTORY
Western European state.
139 BC Romans subdue the Lusitani
415 AD Visigoths invade Iberian Peninsula Language and Culture
711 Muslim army conquers Visigothic kingdom The family is the hub of Portuguese daily
1139 Afonso Henriques declares himself king life and Catholicism remains a powerful
1147 Afonso Henriques takes Lisbon force in rural communities. But the
1249 Conquest of Algarve complete country has come a long way since the
1385 João I defeats Castilians at Aljubarrota repression and self-censorship of the
1418 Prince Henry the Navigator made governor Salazar era. Urban Portugal, in particular,
of Algarve; sponsors expeditions to Africa
presents a fairly emancipated and eagerly
1578 King Sebastião killed on ill-fated expedition
to Morocco consumerist face to the world.
1580 Philip II of Spain becomes king of Portugal The national psyche encapsulates this
1640 Restoration; Duke of Bragança crowned João IV; dualism in its struggle between a forward-
start of war of independence looking, realistic approach to life and the
1668 Spain recognizes Portugal’s independence dreamy, inward-looking side that finds
1807 French invade; royal family flees to Brazil expression in the Portuguese notion of
1910 Revolution; Manuel II abdicates and flees to saudade, a melancholy yearning for
England; republic proclaimed
something lost or unattainable.
1932 António Salazar becomes prime minister
The Portuguese language is a source of
1974 Carnation Revolution
national pride, and visitors should not
2000 Portugal joins European single currency
assume that it is interchangeable with
2011 The economic crisis forces Portugal in to a €78
billion bailout agreement with the EU and IMF
Spanish. Portuguese people are also often
2013 Government approves further austerity
eager to speak English. Pride, too, is taken
measures to avoid a second international bailout in fado, the native musical tradition that
expresses saudade.
PORTUGAL 339
Exploring Portugal
Portugal is a small country and there are fast road and train
links between the country’s four great cities: Lisbon, Coimbra,
Oporto, and Faro. Many of the most famous sights, such as
the royal palaces at Sintra and the monastery of Alcobaça,
make a good day’s outing from Lisbon. In the south, the great
attractions are the sandy beaches of the Algarve. Arriving
from the north is quite easy on the Lisbon-Algarve motorway,
but most visitors fly direct to Faro airport and once there,
traveling between the various resorts is no problem.
A28 Bragança
Zamora KEY
4
A2
Chaves
A27 03
Viana do N1 Highway
N2
Major road
Guimarães
Railroad
A3
Vila Real
Oporto A4
International border
(Porto) D our
o
A1
A24
2
N10
A29
A25
Salamanca
Aveiro Viseu
A25
Sights at a w Portimão
IP 3
AT L A N T I C Guarda
Glance
A17
7 e Lagos
3
1
OCEAN
9
Buçaco N
A2
N10
4 Tomar
Figueira Coimbra The Lisbon Coast
da Foz 5 Alcobaça
Condeixa-a-Nova (see inset map)
6 Batalha
A1
PORTUGAL
N1 0
2 Cascais
Zêzere
Branco 8 Oporto
(IC A8
1)
IP6 Te
Portalegre
Santarém
A8
A1 3
A1
Badajoz
N1 A6
N4
8
0
Mérida
N1
LISBON
N4 The Lisbon Coast
A1
(Lisboa) A6 Évora
A8 (IC1)
N256 de Xira
See inset map
IC1
Sa
IP2
do
jo
N 260
Sines
Te
Guadiana
Seville 6
A1
LISBON
91
A5
S PA I N
N3
A1
(Lisboa)
2
Cascais Estoril
0
IC1
N12
Barreiro IC
N2
21
IC27
A2
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363 For keys to symbols see back flap
340 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
1 Lisbon
The capital of Portugal occupies a hilly site on
the estuary of the Tagus. Over the centuries, the
city expanded along the coast to Belém, the starting
point for the voyages of discovery in the 15th century, and
to the other side of the river, known as the Margem Sul.
It has now spread far inland, making the population
of Greater Lisbon nearly two million. The historic center
(the Baixa) is a small, low-lying area, pinned between the Portugal’s coat of arms in the treasury
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Getting Around
Lisbon’s expanding metro system links
the north of the city with sights in the
center around Rossio square. Buses
cover the whole city and are the most
common form of public transportation.
Take the Santa Justa lift to reach the
Bairro Alto district and the 28 tram to
climb the steep hill up to the Alfama.
Belém is served by tram, train, and
bus. Taxis are inexpensive, but a taxi
ride can be alarming, as can any
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, overlooking Praça do Império experience of driving in Lisbon.
LISBON 341
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I D AAV E N I D A D E
Pedestrian street A V E N
Funicular railway
0 meters 250
0 yards 250
T e j o
1 Oceanário de
Lisboa
Esplanada Dom Carlos I, Parque
das Nações. Tel 218-917 000.
q Oriente. @ 705, 728, 744, 750.
£ Gare do Oriente. Open daily.
& 7 ∑ oceanario.pt
View of the Castelo de São Jorge across the Baixa, Lisbon’s lower town
344 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
7 Praça do Comércio triumphal arch on the north Comércio was linked with the
@ 711, 714, 732, 759, 794 & many side, decorated with statues of busy central square of Rossio.
others. v 15, 18. q Terreiro do Paço. historical figures, leads into Rua The streets were flanked by
Augusta and the Baixa. Take the splendid Neoclassical buildings.
More commonly known as elevator to the top of the arch The Baixa (lower town) is still
Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square), for sweeping views of the city. the commercial hub of the city,
this was the site of the royal On February 1, 1908, King housing banks, offices, and
palace for 400 years. Manuel I Carlos and his son, Luís Felipe, stores. The streets are crowded
transferred the royal residence were assassinated in the square. by day, especially the central Rua
here, from the Castelo de São In 1974, it witnessed the first Augusta, but less so after dark.
Jorge, in 1511. The first palace, uprising of the Armed Forces By the Restauradores metro
along with its library and 70,000 Movement, which overthrew the station is the Palácio Foz, an
books, was destroyed in the 1755 Caetano regime in a bloodless 18th-century palace. Tourists are
earthquake. Its replacement was coup that became known as naturally drawn to Rossio, an
built around three sides of the the Carnation Revolution. elegant square and social focal
square. After the 1910 revolution, point with cafés and pastelarias.
it became government The National Theater stands on
administrative offices. 8 Baixa the north side. Just to the east
The south side looks across @ 711, 714, 732, 736, 759, 794 & of Rossio is the less attractive
the Tagus and was once the many others. v 15, 18. q Rossio, Praça da Figueira, the city’s
finest gateway to Lisbon – used Restauradores, Terreiro do Paço. main marketplace in Pombal’s
by royalty and ambassadors – time. Rua das Portas de Santo
with marble steps up from the Following the 1755 earthquake, Antão, north of the two
river. In the center of the square the Marquês de Pombal created squares, is a lively pedestrian
is an equestrian statue of José I an entirely new city center, one street full of restaurants.
(1775) by Machado de Castro, of Europe’s first examples of
leading Portuguese sculptor of town planning. Using a grid
the 18th century. The impressive layout of streets, the Praça do 9 Bairro Alto
@ 732, 758. v 28 (also Elevador
da Glória & Elevador da Santa Justa).
q Baixa-Chiado.
Afonso V
(1432–81)
Pedro Álvares Cabral
Henry the Navigator (1467–1520), discoverer
(1394–1460), patron of Brazil
of the first explorers
Vasco da Gama Fernão de Magalhães (Magellan), Padrão erected by Diogo
(1460–1524) who crossed the Pacific in 1520–21 Cão in the Congo in 1482
The Monastery
The facade of the monastery church
is dominated by the
magnificent South
Portal. This makes
dramatic use of
the Manueline
style of
architecture,
essentially a
Portuguese
variant of
Late Gothic.
Entrance to church
and cloister
KEY
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held
aloft by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.
. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
João de Castilho unites Tomb of King Sebastião
religious themes, such as The tomb of the “longed for” Dom
this image of St. Jerome, Sebastião stands empty. The young
with the secular, exalting king never returned from battle in
the kings of Portugal. 1578 (see p338).
350 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
The magnificent Gothic tomb of Pedro I in the transept of the monastery church at Alcobaça
352 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Palácio Nacional
de Sintra
At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila),
a pair of unusual conical chimneys rises high
above the Royal Palace. The main part of the
palace, including the central block with its plain
Gothic facade and the large kitchens beneath the . Sala dos Brasões
chimneys, was built by João I in the late 14th The domed ceiling of this majestic room is
decorated with stags holding the coats of
century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish
arms (brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became families. The lower walls are
the favorite summer retreat for the court and lined with 18th-century
continued as a residence for Portuguese royalty Delft-like tiled
panels.
until 1910. Additions to the building by the
wealthy Manuel I in the early 16th century,
echo the Moorish style. Gradual rebuilding
of the palace has resulted in a fascinating
amalgamation of various different styles.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219-106 840. Open Apr 1–
Oct 25: 9:30am–7pm daily;
Oct 26–Mar 31: 9:30am–6pm
daily (last adm: 30 mins before
closing). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
8&
Chapel
Symmetrical Moorish patterns decorate
the original 15th-century chestnut
and oak ceiling and the mosaic floor
of the private chapel.
Entrance
KEY
The Douro River and old city of Oporto, with the Ponte de Dom Luís I and modern metro line in the foreground
8 Oporto in 1842. Its highlight is the The oldest of the five bridges
Arabian Room decorated in spanning the Douro are the
* 245,000. k 10 km (6 miles) N.
£ @ n Rua Clube dos Fenianos 25
the style of the Alhambra. Dona Maria Pia railroad bridge
(223-393 472); Terreiro de Sé (223-325 Close by is the 14th-century (1877), designed by Gustave
174). _ São João do Porto (Jun São Francisco church. Its Eiffel, and the two-tiered Ponte
23–24). ∑ portoturismo.pt interior is richly covered in de Dom Luís I (1886), by one
carved and gilded wood. of Eiffel’s assistants.
Ever since the Romans built a fort In the Cordoaria district, west Across the river is the town
here, at the mouth of the Douro, of the Sé, stands the 18th- of Vila Nova de Gaia, the
Oporto (Porto in Portuguese) century Igreja dos Clérigos. center of port production,
has prospered from commerce. The church tower, at 75 m housing the lodges (armazéns)
Today it is Portugal’s second city (246 ft), offers superb views. of over 50 companies. Many
and a thriving industrial center. Situated in the lovely offer guided tours.
The commercial center of Serralves park, the Fundação
the city and the Baixa (“lower”) de Serralves is dedicated to E Fundação de Serralves
district attract fashionable contemporary art. It presents Rua Dom João de Castro 210. Tel 226-
shoppers. Also in the Baixa is temporary exhibitions in the 156 500. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri (to
the colorful Bolhão market. Art Deco Casa de Serralves, and 7pm in summer), 10am–7pm Sat, Sun,
Most of the tourist sights, its art collection, from the 1960s & public hols (to 8pm in summer).
however, are to be found in to the present, in the Modernist Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & (free 10am–
1pm Sun). 7 - = ∑ serralves.pt
the older riverside quarters. Museu de Arte Contemporânea,
High above the river, on designed by Alvaro Siza Vieira.
Penaventosa Hill, stands
Oporto’s cathedral, or Sé,
originally a fortress church. The Story of Port
A noteworthy 13th-century
feature is the rose window, Port comes only from a demarcated
region of the upper Douro valley. Its
while the upper level of the
“discovery” dates from the 17th century,
beautiful 14th-century cloister when British merchants added brandy
affords splendid views. to Douro wine to stop it turning sour
Nearby are the Renaissance in transit. Over the years, methods of
church of Santa Clara, and São maturing and blending were refined
Bento Station, completed in and continue today in the port lodges
1916, decorated with of Vila Nova de Gaia. Much of the trade
spectacular azulejo panels. is still in British control.
Below the Sé is the hillside A classic after-dinner drink, port
Barredo quarter, seemingly is rich and usually full-bodied. The
unchanged since medieval tawnies are lighter in color than ruby
days. This leads down to the or vintage, but can be more complex.
riverside quarter, the Ribeira, All ports are blended from several
its houses decorated with tiled wines, selected from scores of samples. Tiled panel of a barco rabelo on
or pastel-painted facades. White port, unlike the other styles, is the Douro
The district has been restored drunk chilled as an aperitif.
Traditionally, the wine was shipped
and is now a thriving tourist
down the Douro from the wine-growing estates (quintas) to the port
center with restaurants and clubs. lodges on narrow sailing barges called barcos rabelos. Some of these
Sights close to the river can still be seen moored along the quay at Vila Nova de Gaia.
include the Palácio da Bolsa,
the city’s stock exchange, built
356 THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Southern Portugal
Southern Portugal encompasses the Alentejo and the
Algarve, which are separated by ranges of hills. The Alentejo,
nearly one-third of Portugal, stretches south from the Tagus.
It is typified by vast rolling plains of olive trees, cork oaks, or
wheat, as well as whitewashed villages, castles, and a sense of
space and tranquility. The Algarve is very different from the
rest of Portugal in climate, culture, and scenery.
Its stunning coastline and year-round
mild weather make it a popular Renaissance fountain in Évora’s main
square, Praça do Giraldo
vacation resort.
0 Faro
Roman walls stands the * 55,000. k £ @ n Rua da
University, founded by the Misericórdia 8 (289-803 604). ( daily.
Jesuits in 1559. It was closed in _ Dia da Cidade (Sep 7).
1759 by the Marquês de Pombal
(see p345). The building, with its Faro has been the capital of
graceful cloister and notable the Algarve since 1756. It was
azulejos, forms part of the damaged by the 1755 earth-
present-day university. quake and, although some parts
Évora has more than 20 of the ancient city walls remain,
Carved figures of the Apostles on the portal churches and monasteries, most of the buildings date from
of the Sé, Évora including the 15th-century the 18th or 19th centuries.
São Francisco. The church’s The old city is easy to
9 Évora gruesome 17th-century Capela explore on foot. At its heart
* 55,000. £ @ n Praça do dos Ossos was created from the is the Largo da Sé, lined with
Giraldo (266-777 071). ( Sat & bones of 5,000 monks. orange trees and flanked by
2nd Tue of month. _ Festa de Northwest of the city stands the 18th-century bishops’
São João (Jun). the remaining 9 km (5 miles) of palace, the Paço Episcopal,
Évora’s aqueduct, the Aqueduto which is still in use today.
Rising dramatically out of the da Água de Prata, (1531–37), The Sé itself is a mixture of
Alentejo plain, the enchanting which was damaged in the Baroque and Renaissance styles
city of Évora is set in Roman, 17th century, during the War. and has a fine 18th-century
medieval, and 17th-century organ. Next to the Sé is the
walls. In 1986, UNESCO declared E Museu de Évora Museu Municipal, which
it a World Heritage site. Largo do Conde de Vila Flor. contains Roman, medieval, and
The fortresslike cathedral, the Tel 266-730 480. Open Tue–Sun. Manueline archaeological
Sé, on the Largo do Marquês de Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Jun finds from all over the region.
Marialva, was begun in 1186. 29, Dec 25. & On the other side of the
The portal is flanked by a pair P University old city wall is the impressive
of unmatched towers. Inside, Largo dos Colegiais. Tel 266-740 875. 18th-century church of
a glittering treasury houses Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. São Francisco.
sacred art. Beside it stands a
16th-century palace that houses
the newly renovated Museu de
Évora, which has exhibits on the
history of the city from Roman
columns to modern sculpture.
Opposite the museum is a
Roman temple – erected in
the 2nd or 3rd century AD –
once believed to have been
dedicated to Diana.
Walk from the Sé past the
craft stores of Rua 5 de Outubro
to reach Praça do Giraldo, the
main square, with its Moorish
arcades and central fountain
(1571). In 1573, the square was
the site of an Inquisitional
burning. Just outside the city’s Orange trees in front of the Bishops’ Palace in the old city of Faro
For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363
PORTUGAL 357
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies US United Airlines
Avenida das Forças ∑ united.com
Lisbon Australia
Armadas, 1600-081
Lisboa Welcome Center, Av. da Liberdade 198–200,
Lisbon. Tel 217-273 300. Train Information
Praça do Comércio. 2nd floor, 1250-147
Tel 707-210 220.
Tel 210-312 810. Lisbon.
Tel 213-101 500.
Emergencies ∑ cp.pt
Oporto
Canada Ambulance, Police, Car Rental
Rua Clube dos Fenianos
Av. da Liberdade 198–200, and Fire services
25. Tel 223-393 472. Auto Jardim, Faro
3rd floor, 1269-121 Tel 112.
∑ visitporto.travel Tel 289-818 491.
Lisbon.
UK Tel 213-164 600. Airlines ∑ auto-jardim.com
11 Belgrave Square,
Ireland Budget, Oporto
easyJet
London SW1X 8PP. Av. da Liberdade 200, 4th Tel 808-25 26 27.
∑ easyjet.com
Tel 020-7201 6666. Floor, 1250-147 Lisbon. ∑ budget.com.pt
Shopping & Entertainment but you will also see sites devoted
to antiques, pottery, lace, rugs,
Traditional arts and crafts flourish in Portugal. A wide range of clothes, and local crafts. Most
interesting pottery can be found in all parts of the country, markets are held in the morning
while in the north embroidery, lace, and gold-filigree jewelry only, but in tourist areas they
from the Minho region make unusual presents. Many visitors may go on until late afternoon.
come to Portugal for the sporting facilities, principally the golf
courses of the Algarve. Watersports, both in the Algarve and Food and Drink
on the wilder west coast, are another great attraction. Tourists Some visitors may want to buy
are usually encouraged to sample fado, Lisbon’s native folk regional produce, such as Serra
music, and there are also classical cultural events to be cheese from the Serra da Estrela
mountains. However, more are
enjoyed in the big cities and at annual festivals.
likely to bring back a bottle as a
souvenir – most probably of
port. It is not especially cheap,
Where to Shop examples come from towns in but you will never have the
Although it is not difficult to find the Minho such as Viana do opportunity to sample so many
stores that seem a little behind Castelo, also famous for its styles and vintages as you will
the times when compared with brightly printed shawls. on a tour of the port lodges of
other European countries, Embroidered bedspreads are Vila Nova de Gaia (see p355).
modern shopping malls are now made in Castelo Branco in the When it comes to table wines
a common feature of most cities. Beira Baixa, and colorful carpets you might enjoy the young,
In Lisbon, Amoreiras shopping are sold in the Alentejo. slightly sparkling vinho verde
center led the way, with 247 Filigree jewelry (filigrana) from from Minho in the north, an
shops, underground parking, the Minho is typically worn at aged red Dão, or one of the
movie theaters, and restaurants. local festivals. Gold and silver southern wines from Alentejo.
Colombo followed, and is threads are worked into intricate
Portugal’s largest mall. brooches, earrings, and pendants.
Cascaishopping, between Sintra Woven baskets, produced Entertainment Listings
and Estoril, is similar in style. throughout the country, make and Tickets
Opening times for shopping delightful souvenirs. Cork Tickets for almost all events in
centers are usually from 10am from the Alentejo is used to Lisbon can be bought in FNAC
until 11pm daily (including make articles such as mats stores, or be reserved by visiting
Sunday). Ordinary stores open at and ice buckets. or phoning the Agência de
9am or 10am and close at 7pm, Bilhetes para Espectáculos
though smaller stores and those (ABEP). Pay in cash when you
in quieter areas usually close for Ceramics collect them from the kiosk.
lunch between 1pm and 3pm. In most cities, you can buy as Some movie theaters and
well as commission ceramic tiles theaters take phone or
and panels. Portugal has a long- credit-card reservations.
Reclaiming Tax standing tradition of ceramics, Previews of forthcoming events
Value Added Tax (IVA) can be both for decorative purposes and listings of bars and clubs
reclaimed by non-EU residents and for home use. Styles range appear in several magazines
who stay for less than 180 days. from elegant Vista Alegre Atlantis in Lisbon. English-language
Ask for an Isenção de IVA form or porcelain to simple glazed publications include the monthly
invoice in triplicate, describing brown earthenware, plain or Follow Me Lisboa, which is
the goods, quantity, value, and painted with simple patterns. available free from tourist offices.
buyer’s identity (best done where Antique azulejos are highly
you see the “Global Blue” signs). sought after and very expensive,
Present the forms at customs but you can buy reproductions Classical Music, Opera,
on departure. of well-known historic designs and Dance
at places such as Lisbon’s Museu Lisbon’s top cultural centers
Nacional do Azulejo (see p342). are the Fundação Calouste
What to Buy Gulbenkian and the vast Centro
Portugal is not expensive when Cultural de Belém. These host
compared with the rest of Markets national and international events,
Europe, and prices are very A social and commercial including ballet, opera, and
reasonable for traditional crafts, occasion, the street market is concerts. The Portuguese
especially away from the big integral to Portuguese life. It is national opera house is the
cities and tourist centers. The usually held in the town’s main Teatro Nacional de São Carlos.
Portuguese are well known for square. Most markets sell a wide One of the best Classical music
their delicate embroidery and range of goods, from food to festivals is the summer festival in
fine lace. Some of the finest household items and clothes, Sintra (see p350).
PORTUGAL 361
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Classical Music, Theater and Golf and Tennis
Opera, and Dance Cinema
Amoreiras Federação
Avenida Eng. Duarte Centro Cultural Cinemateca Portuguesa de Golfe
Pacheco. Tel 213-810 240. de Belém Portuguesa Tel 214-123 780.
Praça do Império, Rua Barata Salgueiro 39,
Cascaishopping Jonathan Markson
Belém, Lisbon. Lisbon.
Estrada Nacional 9, Tennis
Tel 213-596 200.
Alcabideche - Estoril. Tel 213-612 400. Riverbank House,
Tel 210-121 628. Teatro Nacional 1 Putney Bridge
Fundação Calouste Dona Maria II Approach, London
Colombo Gulbenkian Praça Dom Pedro IV, SW6 3BQ, UK.
Avenida Lusíada, Lisbon. Avenida de Berna 45, Lisbon. Tel 020-7603 2422.
Tel 217-113 600. Lisbon. Tel 213-250 800.
Tel 217-823 000.
Entertainment Fado
Teatro Nacional de
Tickets
São Carlos Parreirinha de
ABEP Rua Serpa Pinto 9, Alfama
Praça dos Restauradores, Lisbon. Beco do Espírito Santo 1,
Lisbon. Tel 213-470 768. Tel 213-253 000. Lisbon. Tel 218-868 209.
362 PORTUGAL
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
€ under €60
€€ €60 to €150
€€€ over €150
Florence
Ancona
Siena
ITALY Pescara
(see pp368–443)
Rome
Foggia
Naples
Locator Map
Serres
Bari
Athens (see pp450–57)
Brindisi Thessaloníki is renowned for its
Kozani unrivaled collection of
Classical antiquities.
The world-famous
Ioannina Lárisa Acropolis is dominated
Corfu by the 2,500-year-old
GREECE Parthenon, built as an
(see pp444–89) expression of the glory
of ancient Greece.
Patra Athens
Kalamata
0 km 100 Rhodes Town
0 miles 100 Rhodes
Irákleio
Crete
ITALY
Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for centuries. Few
countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture, musical,
and literary traditions, its scenery, or its food and wine. Since World War II, Italy
has climbed into the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of
the customs, traditions, and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.
Italy has no single cultural identity. Germany and France, while the south
Between the snowy peaks of the Alps has suffered a succession of invasions
and the rugged shores of Sicily lies a from foreign powers: Carthaginians and
whole series of regions, each with its Greeks in ancient times, Saracens and
own distinctive dialect, architecture, Normans in the Middle Ages, and until
and cuisine. There is also a larger regional the middle of the last century, the
division. People speak of two Italies: Bourbons from Spain held sway.
the rich industrial north and the poorer
agricultural south, known as Il Mezzogiorno History
(Land of the Midday Sun). Italy is a young country; it did not exist as
The north is directly responsible for a unified nation state until 1861. The idea
Italy’s place among the world’s top of Italy as a geographic entity goes back to
industrial nations, a success achieved the time of the Etruscans, but prior to the
by names such as Fiat, Pirelli, Olivetti, 19th century, the only time the peninsula
Zanussi, Alessi, and Armani. The south, was united was under the Romans, who
in contrast, has high unemployment, by the 2nd century BC had subdued the
many areas in the grip of organized other Italian tribes and the Greek colonies
crime, and regions that rank among around the coast. Rome became the
the most depressed in Europe. capital of a huge empire, introducing
History and geography have both its language, laws, and calendar to most
contributed to the division. The north of Europe before falling to Germanic
is closer both in location and spirit to invaders in the 5th century AD.
Exploring Italy
Zurich
S W IT Z ERLA N D
Italy’s elongated shape means travel 1 Bolzano
S4
can take up a fair proportion of your S42
visit. Rome, Florence, and Venice Lake Como
Domodossola (Lago di Como) Trento
are naturally the main tourist Lake Maggiore
(Lago Maggiore) Lake Garda
destinations, but there are many A5 (Lago di Garda)
Bergamo
other attractive historic towns and Aosta
Malpensa
Brescia Verona
cities that merit a detour of a A4 Linate
A4
A5 MilanA
couple of days or more. Visitors 1 Mantua
Po N482
with time to explore often choose
A7
Turin (Mantova)
(Torino) Po
S2
to tour a particular region, such as A21
A2 2
3
Parma
A2
Tuscany, the Veneto, or the island A1
S 45
o
5
6
ar
Ta n A1
of Sicily. Road and rail connections
S20
Genoa
A6 (Genova) Bologna
are generally better in the north, S21 A10 Portofino
where Milan, Bologna, and Verona Peninsula
A1
2
La Spezia
are the key transport hubs. A11
San Remo
Lucca
Florence
Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze)
MONACO
F R AN C E Sea Livorno San
Gimignano
Marseille Siena
S1
S 2 23
Piombino
Bastia Elba
N193
Orbetello
Cor s i c a
N198
Porto Olbia
6 Florence pp394–407 s Bologna
25
Torres
Sassari
7 Pisa d Ravenna
S 1 31
31
e Lake Maggiore l Taormina
r Lake Como z Mount Etna
S130
t Lake Garda x Syracuse Cagliari
y Mantua c Agrigento
MEDITER
RAN
EAN
0 km 80
0 miles 80
Tunis
A US TR I A
Distance chart
Rome Distance by road in kilometers
Cortina d'Ampezzo
2
S5
383
1
A23 Bologna
SLOVENIA 238
Belluno Udine
Ljubljana 562 783
S13 Brindisi
349 487
Zagreb 278 106 832
66 517
Florence
Treviso 173
Vicenza Trieste 510 291 1064 225
A4 317 181 661 140
Genoa
Venice Rijeka 575 210 990 299 145
Padua (Venezia) 357 130 615 186 90 Milan
(Padova)
Adige 219 594 354 489 714 786
Naples
Ferrara 136 369 220 304 444 488
S309
Rimini
SAN
MARINO Pesaro
CROATIA
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S3
Urbino Ancona
S7 6
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BOSNIA AND
A1
4
Perugia
A1
S77
HERZEGOVINA
Assisi Ascoli
Piceno Adriatic
S4
Todi
Orvieto Sea Dubrovnikk
Pescara
4
A2
L'Aquila
Viterbo
A1
Isole
A25
Civitavécchia
4
Sulmona Tremiti
Fiumicino
ROME (Roma)
S1
48
I T A L Y S8
9
Greece,
A1
Anzio Foggia Egypt
N85
S 213
S87
S7
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Naples
(Napoli) A16 Greece
6
Pompeii
N9
A14
Isola d'Ischia 16
S
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Isola di Capri Amalfi S407
S7
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S16
S18
06
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8
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8
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SE Major road
A A19 Catania
Railroad
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S11
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(Siracusa)
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FLA
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IA
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Stazione
Roma- Key
Ostiense
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
City walls
0 meters 750
0 yards 750
1 St. Peter’s
Catholicism’s most sacred shrine, the . Dome
vast, marble-encrusted basilica draws The 137 m (448 ft)
dome, designed by
pilgrims and tourists from all over the Michelangelo, was not
world. A shrine was erected on the site completed until 1590,
of St. Peter’s tomb in the 2nd century long after his death.
and the first basilica was commissioned
by Constantine. Centuries later, in 1506,
Pope Julius II laid the first stone of a
new church while the original basilica
was still in use. The present basilica,
187 m (615 ft) long, took more than
a century to build and all the great
architects of the Roman Renaissance
and Baroque had a hand in its design.
The dominant tone of the interior is set
by Bernini, creator of the baldacchino
below Michelangelo’s
magnificent dome.
Baldacchino
Commissioned by Urban VIII
in 1624, Bernini’s extravagant
Baroque canopy stands
above the Papal Altar, a plain
slab of marble, at which only
the pope may say mass. The
altar is sited directly above the
tomb of St. Peter in the
Grottoes below.
KEY
. Michelangelo’s Pietà
Protected by glass since an attack in 1972,
the Pietà stands in the first side chapel on
the right. It was created in 1499 when
Michelangelo was only 25.
Filarete Door
This bronze door,
decorated with reliefs
by Filarete (1439–45),
was one of the doors
of the old St. Peter’s.
Main entrance
2 Vatican Museums
Four centuries of papal patronage and Gallery of the
connoisseurship have resulted in one of the Candelabra
Once an open
world’s great collections of Classical and loggia, this gallery
Renaissance art. The Vatican houses many of Greek and
of the great archaeological finds of central Roman sculpture
Italy, including the Laocoön group and the has a fine view
of the Vatican
Apollo del Belvedere. The museums are Gardens.
housed in palaces originally built for wealthy
Renaissance popes such as Innocent VIII,
Sixtus IV, and Julius II. Parts of these were Room of the Biga
decorated with wonderful frescoes by the (a two-horse
chariot)
finest painters of the age – most notably
the Borgia Apartment, the Raphael Rooms
and the Sistine Chapel (see p380).
Gallery of
Tapestries
Gallery of Maps
The gallery is an
important record
of 16th-century
cartography and
history. This painting Etruscan
shows the Turkish siege Museum
of Malta in 1565.
Sistine
Chapel
The Cortile
del Belvedere
was designed by
Bramante in 1506.
Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro, Cipro
Pinacoteca
Musei Vaticani. @ 49 to entrance,
23, 81, 492, 990.
Chiaramonti Museum
Vatican
Library Lower floor
Visitors have to follow a one-way system. It is best to Egyptian and Assyrian art
concentrate on a single collection or to choose one Greek and Roman art
of the suggested itineraries. These are color-coded so Etruscan and Italic art
that you can follow them throughout the museums. Early Christian and medieval art
They vary in length from 90 minutes to five hours. If
15th- to 19th-century art
you are planning a long visit, make sure you allow
plenty of time for resting. Conserve your stamina for Modern religious art
the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms; they are Non-exhibition space
20–30 minutes’ walk from the entrance, without Open by special permit only
allowing for any viewing time along the way.
380 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
View across the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo, crowned by the figure of the angel that gave it its name
6 Piazza Navona
@ 40, 46, 62, 64, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.
t Santa Maria
Maggiore
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Tel 06-69 88 68 00. q Termini,
Cavour. @ 16, 70, 71, 714. v 14.
Open daily. 8
. Frescoes by Lorenzetti
The bold composition of
Pietro Lorenzetti’s fresco,
entitled The Deposition
(1323), is based around
the truncated Cross,
focusing attention on the
twisted figure of Christ.
. Frescoes by Giotto
The Ecstasy of St. Francis
is one of 28 panels that
make up Giotto’s cycle on
the Life of St. Francis (c.1290–95).
KEY
1 A Renaissance portico shelters 5 St. Francis, Cimabue’s simple 8 The Upper Church
the original Gothic portal of the painting (c.1280), captures the has soaring Gothic vaulting
Lower Church. humility of the revered saint, painted with a starry sky,
who stood for poverty, chastity, symbolizing the heavenly
2 The crypt contains the tomb and obedience. glory of St. Francis. Its style
of St. Francis.
6 The choir (1501) features a influenced that of many
3 Steps to the Treasury 13th-century stone papal throne. later Franciscan churches.
4 The vaulting of the Lower 7 Faded paintings by Roman 9 The facade and its rose
Church is covered almost entirely artists line the walls above Giotto’s window are early examples
in frescoes. Life of St. Francis. of Italian Gothic.
3 Perugia
* 160,000. £ @ n Piazza
Matteotti 19, Loggia dei Lanari
(075-572 64 58). ( Tue, Thu, Sat.
∑ turismo.comune.perugia.it
Bus station
Train station
IN
AL
PI PEN
St. Catherine, Siena’s LU
DI
AZ DE
patron saint (see p392). Z ZA
ZA NZ
The Baptistry has
A
fine frescoes and
O
VI
ET
A
a font with reliefs DI CC
FO
by Donatello, NT
DIA
Jacopo della EB
RA
Quercia, and ND
DI
Ghiberti. A
VIA
. Duomo
Striped black and white
marble pillars, surmounted
by a carved frieze of the
VIA DEI PELLEGRINI
popes, support the Duomo’s SA
NCIO PIAZZA SAN
vaulted ceiling, painted blue FRA G I O VA N N I
with gold stars to resemble VIA
the night sky (see p392).
I
AR
O
A D
OGGI
C I T TA
VI
DUOMO
A
VI
I A
V
V
IA
D
E
L
C
A
P
IT
A
N
O
Key
Suggested route
Museo dell’Opera
del Duomo
The museum (see p392) houses weathered sculptures 0 meters 300
from the cathedral, including this battered she-wolf 0 yards 300
suckling Romulus and Remus.
VIA
DI P
AN
by Lorenzetti finished in 1338.
ALD
Exploring Siena
Once a capital to rival Florence, Siena is still unspoiled and
endowed with the grandeur of the age in which it was at its
peak (1260–1348). The magnificent Duomo is one of Italy’s
greatest cathedrals. The best place to begin an exploration
of the historic city center is Piazza del Campo and the
surrounding maze of medieval streets. Siena’s hilly position
means that walks through the city are rewarded with
countless sudden views of the surrounding countryside.
E Museo Nazionale
di San Matteo
Piazza San Matteo 1. Tel 050-54 18 65.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. &
The skyline of San Gimignano, bristling with medieval towers
6 Florence
See pp394–407.
7 Pisa
* 90,000. k Galileo Galilei, 5 km
(3 miles) S. £ @ n Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele 16 (050-42 291). ( Wed &
Sat. ∑ pisaunicaterra.it
6 Florence
Florence is a monument to the Renaissance, the artistic
and cultural reawakening of the 15th century. The
buildings of Brunelleschi and the paintings and sculptures
of artists such as Botticelli and Michelangelo turned the
city into one of the world’s greatest artistic capitals.
During this time Florence was at the cultural and VI
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intellectual heart of Europe, its cosmopolitan atmosphere
and wealthy patrons, such as the Medici, providing the
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Getting Around
Buses in Florence are bright orange; most can be picked
up at Santa Maria Novella station. Lines run until at least
9:30pm, the most popular until midnight or 1am.
Information about routes can be found on www.ataf.net.
Official taxis are white, and are generally costly. What
0 meters 300
with one-way systems, erratic drivers, and limited traffic
zones – where only authorized vehicles are permitted to
0 yards 300
go – driving is not recommended. Walking is easily the
most enjoyable way to get around and explore the city.
1 Duomo
See pp398–9.
2 San Lorenzo
Piazza di San Lorenzo. @ many routes.
Basilica: Tel 055-21 40 42. Open daily.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), religious hols.
& Biblioteca: Tel 055-293 79 11.
Open daily during special exhibitions.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), public hols.
Cappelle Medicee: Piazza di Madonna
degli Aldobrandini 6. Tel 055-29 48 83.
Open daily (to 4:50pm). Closed 2nd
& 4th Sun of month, 1st, 3rd, & 5th
Mon of month, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.
&7
San Lorenzo was the parish Facade of Santa Maria Novella, redesigned by Alberti in 1456–70
church of the Medici family, who
lavished their wealth on its with the design of the New Chapel, Lippi’s dramatic frescoes
adornment. Rebuilt in Renais- Sacristy by Michelangelo. The show St. John raising Drusiana
sance Classical style in 1419, the latter’s funerary figures (1520– from the dead and St. Philip
outer facade was never finished. 34) around its walls are among slaying a dragon. Boccaccio set
The inner facade of the his greatest works. The Chapel of the start of The Decameron in
Basilica was designed by the Princes (1604) is opulently this chapel. The Strozzi Tomb
Michelangelo. Cosimo il Vecchio, decorated with inlaid semi- (1493) is by Florentine sculptor
founder of the Medici dynasty, is precious stones and bright Benedetto da Maiano.
buried under a stone slab before frescoes. Six Grand Dukes of the The 14th-century frescoes
the High Altar. The bronze pulpits Medici family are buried here. in the Strozzi Chapel are by
in the nave are Donatello’s last two brothers (Nardo di Cione
works. Opposite is Bronzino’s and Andrea Orcagna) and
3 Santa Maria
vast fresco of the human form were inspired by Dante’s
in various poses (1659). Novella Divine Comedy.
The Biblioteca Mediceo- Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. @ many Beside the church is a walled
Laurenzia, which housed the routes. 7 Church: Tel 055-21 92 57. cemetery with grave niches. The
family’s manuscripts, has an Open daily (pm only Fri–Sun & religious cloisters on the other side of the
elaborate sandstone staircase, hols). & Museum: Tel 055-28 21 87. church form a museum. The
desks, and ceilings designed Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Thu, Green Cloister’s name derives
by Michelangelo in 1524. 11am–5:30pm Fri, 9am–5pm Sat, from the green tinge to Uccello’s
The Cappelle Medicee noon–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Noah and the Flood frescoes,
incorporate three sacristies which Sun, May 1. & 7 damaged by the 1966 floods.
epitomize different periods The adjoining Spanish Chapel
of art. Donatello’s The Gothic church of Santa contains frescoes on the theme
decoration of the Maria Novella, built by the of salvation and damnation.
Old Sacristy Dominicans between 1279 and
contrasts 1357, contains some of the
4 Galleria
most important works of
art in Florence. The dell’Accademia
interior displays a number Via Ricasoli 60. @ many routes.
of superb frescoes, Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open
including Masaccio’s Tue–Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
Trinity (c.1428), which is & 7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
renowned as a master-
piece of perspective and The Academy of Fine Arts in
portraiture. The close Florence, founded in 1563,
spacing of the nave was the first school in Europe
piers at the east end set up to teach drawing,
accentuates the illusion painting, and sculpture.
of length. The Tornabuoni Since 1873, many of Michel-
Chapel contains Ghirlan- angelo’s most important works
daio’s fresco cycle, The Life have been in the Accademia.
of John the Baptist (1485). Perhaps the most famous of
Detail from Donatello pulpit, San Lorenzo In the Filippo Strozzi all dominates the collection:
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
FLORENCE 397
1 Duomo
Set in the heart of Florence, Santa Maria del . Campanile
At 85 m (276 ft), the
Fiore – the Duomo, or cathedral, of Florence Campanile is 6 m (20 ft)
– dominates the city with its enormous shorter than the dome.
dome. Its sheer size was typical of Florentine It is clad in white, green
and pink Tuscan marble.
determination to lead in all things, and to
The first-floor reliefs are
this day, no other building stands taller in by Andrea Pisano.
the city. The Baptistry, with its celebrated
doors, is one of Florence’s oldest buildings,
dating perhaps from the 4th century. In his
capacity as city architect, Giotto designed
the Campanile in 1334; it was completed in
1359, 22 years after his death.
. Baptistry
Colorful 13th-century mosaics illustrating The
Last Judgment decorate the ceiling above the
large octagonal font where many famous
Florentines, including Dante, were baptized.
Main
entrance
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Piazza del Duomo.
Tel 055-230 28 85.
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed religious hols.
. Dome 7 Crypt: Open Mon–Sat. &
Brunelleschi’s revolutionary
Dome: Open daily. &
achievement was to build the
Campanile: Open daily. &
largest dome of its time
Baptistry: Open pm Mon–Sat;
without scaffolding. As you
Sun am. All buildings Closed Jan
climb the 463 steps to
1 & religious hols. &
the top, you can see
∑ ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it
how an inner shell
provides a platform Transport
for the timbers @ 1, 6, 14, 17, 23.
that support the
outer shell.
Entrance to steps
to the dome
Marble Pavement
As you climb up to the dome, you can see that
the 16th-century marble pavement, designed
in part by Baccio d’Agnelo, is laid out as a maze.
KEY
1 The east doors, known as 3 The Neo-Gothic marble facade 7 Bricks of varying size were
the “Gate of Paradise” (1424–52), echoes the style of Giotto’s camp- set in a self- supporting herring-
were made by Ghiberti. While anile, but was added in 1871–87. bone pattern – a technique
replicas adorn the Baptistry, Brunelleschi copied from the
4 Gothic windows
the originals can be found in Pantheon in Rome.
the Duomo museum. 5 The top of the dome offers
8 The octagonal marble
spectacular views over the city. sanctuary around the High
2 The Baptistry doors
demonstrate the artistic ideas that 6 Last Judgment frescoes Altar was skilfully decorated by
led to the Renaissance. by Vasari Baccio Bandinelli.
400 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
Classical models for inspiration, while the art world, with a Papal States
Pope Leo X
There were two Medici popes: Giovanni, who
reigned as Leo X (1513–21), and Giulio, who
took his place as Clement VII (1521–34).
Corruption in the church under Leo inspired
Luther and the growth of Protestantism.
1425 1450
Humanism
Carpaccio’s painting
St. Augustine in his
The Medici Study (1502) is
emblem of
thought to show
seven balls
appears on the Cardinal Bessarion
trappings of (c.1395–1472), one
Lorenzo’s horse. of the scholars who
revived interest in
Classical philosophy,
especially Plato.
2 7
42
Gallery Guide
The Uffizi art collection is
housed on the top floor.
Ancient Greek and Roman
sculptures are displayed in the
41
corridor running round the
inner side of the building. The
paintings are hung in a series 6
-3
37
of rooms off the main corridor,
in chronological order, to reveal 38
the development of Florentine 35
art from Gothic to High
Renaissance and beyond. Most 34
of the best-known paintings
are grouped in rooms 7–18. To Buontalenti
avoid the long queues, book staircase
The Ognissanti Madonna
your visiting time in advance. 33
Giotto’s grasp of spatial depth
in this altarpiece (1310) was a 32
31
milestone in the mastery of 27
perspective. 29 28
30
Key to Floorplan
East Corridor Entrance to the
West Corridor Vasari Corridor
Arno Corridor
Gallery Rooms 1–45
Non-exhibition space
. The Venus of Urbino (1538)
Titian’s sensuous nude was condemned
for portraying the goddess in such an
immodest pose.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
FLORENCE 405
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Piazzale degli Uffizi 6.
Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings).
Open 8:15am–6:50pm Tue–Sun
(last adm: 45 mins before closing).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
& 7 (partial). = 9
∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
Transport
@ B, 23.
4
-1
10
The Tribune,
16 decorated in
red and gold,
15 contains the
works that
the Medici
17 valued most.
18
19
20 . The Birth of Venus (1485)
21
Botticelli’s captivating image shows the Roman
goddess of love, born in a storm in the Aegean sea.
22 She is blown ashore by the winds and greeted by
nymphs, ready to wrap her in a cloak.
23
24
Adoration of the
Magi (c.1481)
Although Leonardo
da Vinci did not finish
25 this painting of the
26 wise men worshipping
the baby Jesus, it is
considered to be one
of his most important
early works.
Vasari’s
Classical
Arno facade
remarkable stained-glass
windows, bas-reliefs, and a
medieval treasury. More religious
artifacts can be seen in the
Museo del Duomo located in
the Palazzo Reale.
An ornate shopping arcade
completed in 1878, the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II links the
Piazza del Duomo with the
Piazza della Scala. It boasts a
superb metal and glass roof
crowned with a central dome,
has mosaic floors, and houses
stylish shops and restaurants.
The Neo-Classical Teatro alla
Scala opened in 1778 and is
among the most prestigious
opera houses in the world. Its
stage is one of the largest in
Europe. The adjoining Museo
Teatrale displays past sets and
costumes and offers a glimpse
of the auditorium.
The Castello Sforzesco, a
symbol of Milan, was initially
the palace of the Visconti family.
Francesco Sforza, who became
lord of Milan in 1450, embellished
The giant Gothic Duomo in central Milan, crowned with spires it, turning it into a magnificent
Renaissance residence. The
w Milan These dynasties became great building has a forbidding exterior,
patrons of the arts, with the a delightful interior, and contains
* 1,350,000. k Malpensa 55 km
result that Milan has acquired an impressive collection of
(34 miles) NW; Linate 8 km (5 miles) E.
£ @ n Piazza Duomo 19A (02-77 a host of artistic treasures. furniture, antiquities, and
40 43 43). ( daily, major market Sat. Today this chic, bustling, and paintings. Michelangelo’s
_ Sant’Ambrogio (Dec 7). prosperous metropolis also unfinished sculpture, known
∑ turismo.milano.it offers opportunities for as the Rondanini Pietà, can
designer shopping and also be seen here.
Center of fashion and gastronomic pleasures. Milan’s finest art collection
business, Milan (Milano in Situated at the very heart of is held in the imposing
Italian) also has a wealth of Milan, the giant Duomo is one 17th-century Palazzo di
impressive sights reflecting its of the largest Gothic churches Brera. Major works of Italian
long and checkered history. in the world. The roof is Renaissance and Baroque
An important trading center extraordinary with 135 spires painters including The Marriage
since it was founded by the and innumerable statues and of the Virgin by Raphael, and
Romans in 222 BC, Milan’s gargoyles. Inside, there are Mantegna’s Dead Christ, hang in
central position made it a
favored location for the empire’s
rulers. It was here that Emperor
Constantine declared that
Christianity was officially
recognized, following his own
conversion (known as the
Edict of Milan, AD 313).
By the Middle Ages Milan was
one of many cities in Lombardy
which opposed the power of
the Holy Roman Emperor. A
period of local dynastic rule
followed the fall of the region
to the Visconti family in 1277.
They were succeeded by the
Sforzas during the Renaissance. The glass dome of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
I TA LY 411
e Lake Maggiore
£ to Stresa and Laveno. @ 4
Navigazione Lago Maggiore (800 55
18 01). n Piazza Marconi 16, Stresa
(0323-301 50).
The Arena, Verona’s Roman amphitheater – the setting for spectacular summer opera performances
p Venice
Sant
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Getting Around
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1 St. Mark’s
The basilica blends architectural and decorative styles . Pentecost Mosaic
from East and West to create one of Europe’s greatest The interior of the dome
above the nave is
buildings. Built on a Greek-cross plan and crowned with
decorated with a
five huge domes, it is the third church to stand on this 12th-century mosaic
site. The first, built to enshrine the body of St. Mark in of the Holy Spirit
the 9th century, was destroyed by fire. The second was descending on
the Apostles in
pulled down in the 11th century to make way for a
tongues of fire.
truly spectacular edifice, reflecting the growing
power of the Republic and its links with Byzantium.
The dark interior is clad in wonderful mosaics,
gleaming with gold. Many treasures – statues,
icons, and the famous horses – were brought
to St. Mark’s after the 4th Crusade had
plundered Constantinople in 1204.
. Horses of
St. Mark
The four horses
are replicas of the
gilded bronze Main
originals, kept entrance
in the Museo
Marciano, reached
from the atrium.
. Facade Mosaics
These are either heavily restored
or replacements of the originals.
This 17th-century work shows
the body of St. Mark being
smuggled out of Alexandria.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
VENICE 417
. Treasury
This contains many treasures
looted from Constantinople
by the Venetians in 1204. This
11th-century silver-gilt reliquary is
in the shape of a domed basilica.
KEY
2 Doge’s Palace
The official residence of the Venetian ruler
(Doge) was founded in the 9th century. The
present palace owes its external appearance
to the building work of the 14th and early
15th centuries. To create their airy Gothic
masterpiece, the Venetians broke with
tradition by perching the bulk of the palace
(built of pink Veronese marble) on top of an . Giants’ Staircase
apparent fretwork of loggias and arcades Statues by Sansovino of Neptune and Mars
(built of white Istrian stone). A tour of the at the top of this late 15th-century staircase
palace leads through a succession of richly symbolize Venice’s power at sea and on
land. Doges were crowned with the
decorated chambers and halls, ending with glittering zogia or
the Bridge of Sighs and the prisons. ducal cap on
the landing.
. Porta della Carta
This 15th-century Gothic
gate was the principal
entrance to the palace.
From it, a vaulted
passageway leads to the
Arco Foscari and the
internal courtyard.
Exit
KEY
Transport
4 San Marco.
Bridge of Sighs
The bridge was built in 1600 to link
the palace with the state prisons. It
reputedly acquired its name from
the sighs of prisoners being led
across it to face trial.
Drunkenness of Noah
This early 15th-century
sculpture, symbolic of the
frailty of man, is set on the
corner of the palace.
Main
entrance
4 Scuola Grande di
San Rocco
Campo San Rocco. Tel 041-523 48 64.
4 San Tomà. Open daily. Closed Jan
1, Easter, Dec 25. & 7 = 8 (audio).
8 Scuola di San
Giorgio degli
Schiavoni
Calle Furlani. Tel 041-522 88 28. 4 San
Zaccaria. Open daily. Closed Mon am,
Sun pm. &
q Accademia
Campo della Carità. Tel 041-520 03 45
(bookings). 4 Accademia. Open
daily (Mon: am only). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Dec 25. & 8 (audio). =
∑ gallerieaccademia.org
Veronese’s painting of Christ’s Last Supper, retitled The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), in the Accademia
424 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
d Ravenna f Urbino
* 140,000. £ @ n Via Salara * 16,000. @ n Piazza
8–12 (0544-357 55). ( Wed & Sat. Rinascimento 1 (0722-26 13). ( Sat.
∑ turismo.ravenna.it
Urbino traces its origins to
Ravenna rose to power in the the Umbrians, centuries before
1st century BC when Emperor Christ, and became a Roman
Augustus built a port and naval municipality in the 3rd century
base nearby, but gained further BC. The city’s zenith, however,
prominence after becoming the came in the 15th century under
administrative capital of the the rule of the philosopher-
Byzantine Empire in AD 402. warrior Federico da Montefeltro,
Most people visit the city for its who commissioned the building
superb early Christian mosaics. of the Palazzo Ducale in 1444.
Spanning the years of Roman This beautiful Renaissance
and Byzantine rule, they can be palace has an extensive library,
seen in many of Ravenna’s 5th- Apse of San Vitale, Ravenna, showing hanging gardens, and numerous
and 6th-century buildings. In 6th-century mosaics fine paintings. Two great
the church of San Vitale, apse 15th-century works, The
mosaics (526–547) show the 20 years after the death of her Flagellation by Piero della
saint being handed a martyr’s husband, the Visigothic King Francesca, and Ideal City
crown. Another mosaic depicts Altauf. The 6th-century church attributed to Luciano Laurana,
Emperor Justinian, who ruled of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is are notable for their use
from 527 to 565. Next door, the dominated by two rows of of perspective.
tiny Mausoleo di Galla Placidia mosaics which depict pro- Of special interest in the
is adorned with a mosaic of The cessions of martyrs and virgins Neo-Classical Duomo, built
Good Shepherd. Galla Placidia bearing gifts. in 1789, is the painting of
ran the Western Empire for Travelers in Ravenna can also the Last Supper by Federico
visit Dante’s Tomb – the great Barocci (c.1535–1612). The
writer died here in 1321 – and Museo Diocesano contains a
Byzantine Italy the Museo Nazionale, which collection of ceramics, glass,
By the 5th century AD, the houses icons, paintings, and and religious artifacts.
Roman Empire was split into archaeological displays. The best The Casa Natale di Raffaello,
two. Rome and the Western place to relax and take a break home of Urbino’s famous son,
Empire could not stem the tide from sightseeing is among the the painter Raphael (1483–
of Germanic invaders as lovely ensemble of medieval 1520), is also open to visitors.
they migrated buildings in the Piazza del Popolo.
southwards and P Palazzo Ducale
Italy fell to the R San Vitale & Mausoleo di Piazza Duca Federico 13. Tel 0722-32
Goths. In the years Galla Placidia 26 25. Open 8:30am–7:15pm Tue–
after 535 AD, Via Fiandrini. Tel 0544-54 16 88. Open Sun, 8:30am–2pm Mon. Closed Jan 1,
however, the daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 Dec 25. & = 7
Eastern
R Sant’Apollinare Nuovo P Casa Natale di Raffaello
Empire
Via di Roma. Tel 0544-54 16 88. Via di Raffaello 57. Tel 0722-32 01 05.
reconquered
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Open daily (Nov–Feb: am only).
most of Italy.
&7 Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
Its stronghold,
Ravenna,
became the
richest, most
powerful Italian
city. Most of the
peninsula was
subsequently
lost to the
Lombards who
invaded in 564,
but Ravenna,
Byzantine protected by
Emperor marshes and
Justinian lagoons, was
able to hold out
until 752 when the Lombard
King Aistulf finally recaptured
the city.
The Palazzo Ducale, rising above the rooftops of Urbino
426 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
R Monreale
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. @ 8
Cloister: Tel 091-640 44 13. Open daily
(am only Sun & hols). & for treasury
& terrace.
z Mount Etna Admiral Nelson once stayed. and Normans. The historic
At Ortigia’s farthest point is medieval core of the city
Catania. £ to Linguaglossa or
Randazzo; Circumetnea (095-541 250).
the Castello Maniace, built focuses on the Via Atenea. The
@ to Nicolosi. n Via G Garibaldi 63, by Frederick II around 1239, 13th-century abbey complex of
Nicolosi (095-91 44 88). and the Galleria Regionale Santo Spirito houses stuccoes
di Palazzo Bellomo, where by Giacomo Serpotta (1695).
One of the world’s largest active Caravaggio’s Burial of St. Lucy
volcanoes, Mount Etna was (1608) may be seen. Environs
thought by the Romans to have One of the most important South of Agrigento, the Valley
been the forge of Vulcan, the examples of ancient theater of Temples is the principal
god of fire. To view it in comfort, architecture, the 5th-century BC sacred site of ancient Akragas.
take the Circumetnea railway, Greek Theater has a 67-tier The mainly 5th- and 6th-century
which runs around the base auditorium or cavea. The great ruins rank among the most
from Catania to Riposto. Greek playwrights staged their impressive complexes of ancient
Now a protected area, about works here. Greek buildings outside Greece.
58 sq km (22 sq miles) in At Tyche, north of Syracuse, Museo Regionale Archeologico
size, Etna offers numerous the Museo Archeologico houses outstanding artifacts
opportunities for excursions. Regionale Paolo Orsi houses an from the temples and the city.
One of the most popular is important collection of artifacts
from Zafferana to the Valle excavated from local digs, E Museo Regionale
del Bove. Guided hikes can which date from the Paleolithic Archeologico
also be taken up to the large to the Byzantine era. Contrada San Nicola, Viale Panoramica.
craters at the summit. Tel 0922-40 15 65. Open daily. &
E Galleria Regionale di
Palazzo Bellomo
x Syracuse Palazzo Bellomo, Via Capodieci 16.
Tel 0931-695 11. Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
* 118,000. g £ @ n Via Maes-
tranza 33 (0931-464 255). ( Wed. E Museo Archeologico
Regionale Paolo Orsi
The most important and Viale Teocrito 66. Tel 0931-46 40 22.
powerful Greek city from 400 Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
to 211 BC when it fell to the
Romans, Syracuse (Siracusa in
Italian) was also regarded as c Agrigento
the most beautiful. * 57,000. g £ @ n Via
The peninsula of Ortigia Empedocle 73 (0922-203 91). ( Fri.
is the hub of the old city. A
highlight is the 18th-century Modern Agrigento occupies the
Duomo. Its Baroque facade site of Akragas, an important
masks the Temple of Athena city of the ancient Greeks.
(5th century BC), which has Following the Roman conquest
been absorbed into it. Nearby of 210 BC, Agrigento was
is the Palazzo Beneventano renamed and successively The Temple of Concord (c.430 BC) in the
del Bosco (1778–88) where occupied by Byzantines, Arabs, Valley of Temples, Agrigento
430 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
anything stolen, you should go traditional social formalities. and are usually open all day,
to the nearest police station and Ciao should only be used as and also into the evening
file a report (denuncia). a greeting for familiar friends, in resorts. However, they
otherwise piacere (pleased to quite often tend to have less
meet you), buon giorno (good favorable exchange rates and
Emergency Services day), or buona sera (good charge a higher commission
In case of emergencies while evening) are polite greetings. than banks. Post offices usually
on vacation, the appropriate Say arrivederci on parting. have the lowest charges.
numbers to call are listed in Kissing on the cheeks is
the directory below. common among friends, but
shake hands with strangers. Communications
Tipping of taxi drivers and Post offices open from about
Health Issues waiting staff in restaurants is 8am to 2pm weekdays, and
No inoculations are needed for not common practice among from 8am to noon on Saturday.
Italy, but it is advisable to carry Italians. However, when a service Main post offices are usually
mosquito repellent in the charge is added to a restaurant open from 8am to 6pm or 7pm
summer months. If emergency bill, it is non-negotiable. Hotel non-stop. The red mailboxes
medical treatment becomes porters expect a reasonable tip (blue in the Vatican City) usually
necessary, you should go to the if they have been helpful. have two slots labeled per la
Pronto Soccorso (emergency città (for the city only) and
room) of the nearest hospital. tutte le altre destinazioni (for
Various medical products, Facilities for the Disabled all other destinations). The
including homeopathic Public awareness of the needs Italian postal service was once
medicines, are available in any of the disabled is improving renowned for its unreliability,
pharmacy (farmacia), but a quickly in Italy. CO.IN.Sociale but has improved in recent
prescription may be required. (Consorzio Cooperative years. The standard mail service
Thanks to a night rota (servizio Integrate) provides information is called prioritaria.
notturno) – listed in the local on facilities for the disabled. The few public telephones
pages of daily newspapers and remaining are generally card-
on pharmacy doors – there is operated. A telephone card
always a pharmacy open in all Banking and Currency (scheda telefonica) can be
cities and most towns. Italy has used the euro since purchased from bars, newspaper
2002 (see p23). Banks open kiosks, post offices, and
between about 8:30am and tobacconists (tabacchi). A corner
Language and Etiquette 1:30pm Monday to Friday. of the card must be broken off
People in Italy are very dress- Most also open from 2:15 to before use. Alternatively, many
conscious and unusual or risqué 3pm or 2:30 to 3:30pm. towns have telephone offices
clothes get noticed. Strict dress Electronic exchange (Telefoni) with low rates for
codes are enforced in many machines, with multilingual long-distance calls. Here, you
places of worship, where your instructions, are located at all are assigned a booth and pay
torso, knees, and upper arms major airports, train stations, after calls are completed. Credit
should be covered. Forms of and banks. Bureaux de change cards can only be used to make
address are still governed by can be found in main towns, calls at major airports.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices ENIT UK Canada Emergency
Tel 020-7408 1254. Via Zara 30, Rome. Numbers
APT Florence ∑ italiantouristboard. Tel 06-854 44 39 37. General Emergency
Via Manzoni 16. co.uk
∑ canada.it Tel 113.
Tel 055-233 20. ENIT US
UK Medical Emergency
APT Milan Tel 212-245 5618.
∑ italiantourism.com Via XX Settembre 80, Tel 118.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Rome. Tel 06-42 20 00 01. Police (Carabinieri)
II. Tel 02-84 45 55 55. PIT Rome
Via Nazionale. ∑ gov.uk/government/ Tel 112.
APT Venice Tel 06-06 08. world/organisations/
Facilities for the
Castello 5050. british-embassy-rome
Embassies Disabled
Tel 041-523 59 13.
US
Australia CO.IN.Sociale
ENIT Rome Via A. Bosio 5, Rome.
Via Veneto 121, Rome. Via Enrico Giglioli 54A,
Via Marghera 2. Tel 06-85 27 21. Tel 06-467 41. Rome. Tel 06-712 9011.
Tel 06-497 11. ∑ enit.it ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au ∑ italy.usembassy.gov ∑ coinsociale.it
432 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
DIRECTORY
Airlines Delta Tel 041-24 24. Sita
Tel 02-38 59 10 87. ∑ actv.it Tel 800-37 37 60.
Air Canada Tel 800-221 1212 (US).
Tel 1-888 247 2262 ∑ delta.com Consorzio Motoscafi ∑ fsbusitalia.it
(Canada). Rialto (Water Taxis)
easyJet Tel 041-522 23 03. Car Rental
∑ aircanada.com ∑ easyjet.com
Air One Meridiana Rail Travel Avis
Tel 89-24 44. Tel 89 29 28. Tel 199-10 01 33.
Alta Velocità
Tel +39 (091) 255 10 47 ∑ meridiana.it
See Ferrovie dello Stato. ∑ avisautonoleggio.it
(from abroad). Qantas
∑ flyairone.it Tel 02-91 29 48 01. Eurostar Europcar
Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). ∑ raileurope.com (US). Tel 199-30 70 30.
Alitalia
∑ qantas.com ∑ eurostar.com (UK).
Tel 06-22 22. ∑ europcar.it
Tel 800-223 5730 (US). Ryanair Ferrovie dello Stato
∑ ryanair.com Hertz
Tel 08714 241 424 (UK). Tel 89-20 21.
∑ alitalia.com ∑ trenitalia.com Tel 199-11 22 11.
United Airlines
Tel 02-69 63 37 07. ∑ hertz.it
American Airlines Italo
Tel 1-800-864 83 31 (US).
Tel 199-257 300. Tel 06-0708. Maggiore
∑ united.com
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ italotreno.it Tel 199-15 11 20 (Rome).
∑ aa.com Getting Around Bus Companies ∑ maggiore.it
British Airways Venice
Tel 02-69 63 36 02. Cotral Sixt
ACTV Information
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Office Tel 800-17 44 71 (Rome). Tel 06-65 21 11 (Rome).
∑ ba.com Piazzale Roma, Venice. ∑ cotralspa.it ∑ sixt.it
434 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
rum from Naples is also the fruttivendolo. You can buy at about 1:30pm. Bargaining
delicious. To make the most of cakes at the pasticceria, milk at is not usual when buying
Italian food, try to buy what is in the latteria, and pasta, ham, and food, but it is worth asking
season. Mushrooms and grapes cheese at the well-stocked for a discount (sconto) for
are best in the fall, whereas alimentari and delicatessens. clothes and other items.
spring is the season for asparagus, To buy wine, head for the Larger markets have stands
strawberries, and artichokes. In enoteca, vineria, or vinaio, where piled high with secondhand
winter, cauliflower and broccoli you can sometimes taste the clothes, and many markets sell
are at their best, as are lemons products first. Italy is a major fake Ray-Ban sunglasses, Lacoste
from Amalfi and Sicilian blood wine producer and stores stock T-shirts, and Levi’s jeans. Popular
oranges. Summer is the time a wide range of labels, from the gifts from Italy include the
for plums, pears, and cherries, prized Barolo and Barbaresco ceramics and wooden kitchen
as well as zucchini, eggplant, vintages to the inexpensive but items sold in most markets.
tomatoes, and melon. palatable local vino da tavola. Specialty markets can be
found in many cities. Milan’s
antique market, the Mercatone
Food Stores Markets dell’Antiquariato, is held on
Specialty stores are the most All Italian towns have at least the last Sunday of the month,
interesting way to shop for food one market a week. Large and the Via Sannio and Porta
in Italy. A fornaio has the best towns have small, daily markets Portese markets of Rome are
bread and a macellaio has the in addition to a weekly flea a mecca for secondhand
finest meat (go to a norcineria for market, usually held on a clothes. The fish market by
pork products). Vegetables are Sunday. Traders set up early the Rialto Bridge in Venice is
freshest from market stands or and usually start to clear away an interesting place to visit.
DIRECTORY
Department Valentino Missiaglia Ottica Nuova di
Stores Via Montenapoleone 20, Procuratie Vecchie, Piazza Malizia Michela
Milan. Tel 02-276 006 182. San Marco 125, Venice. Via P. Rossi 38, Milan.
La Rinascente Tel 041-522 44 64.
Via dei Tosinghi 52r, Tel 02-648 03 10.
Galleria Alberto Sordi,
Florence. Nardi La Valigeria
Piazza Colonna, Rome.
Tel 055-29 31 42. Procuratie Nuove, Piazza
Tel 06-678 42 09. Via Cesare Baronio 18,
San Marco 69, Venice.
Piazza Fiume, Rome. Jewelry Rome. Tel 06-788 67 54.
Tel 041-522 57 33.
Tel 06-884 12 31.
Buccellati Accessories Regional Crafts
Piazza della Repubblica 1,
Mercerie dell’Orologio
Florence. Barovier e Toso
Borsalino
214, Venice.
Tel 055-21 91 13. Piazza del Popolo 20, Fondamenta Vetrai 28,
Tel 041-522 65 49.
Piazza Duomo, Milan. Rome. Tel 06-32 65 08 38. Murano. Tel 041-73 90 49.
Lungarno Acciaiuoli 3/5,
Tel 02-885 21. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Florence. Il Cantuccio della
II 92, Milan.
Designer Fashion Tel 055-21 55 02. Ceramica
Tel 02-890 15 436.
Via Montenapoleone 23, Via Benedetto Croce 38,
Armani Ferragamo
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 21 54. Naples. Tel 081-552 58 57.
Via Condotti 79, Rome. Via Condotti 65, Rome.
Tel 06-699 14 61. Bulgari Tel 06-678 11 30. Spazio Artigiano
Via Condotti 10, Rome. Via de’ Tornabuoni 16r, Vicolo dei Serpenti 13,
Via de Tornabuoni 48r,
Tel 06-69 62 61. Florence. Rome. Tel 06-47 82 48 60.
Florence.
Tel 055-29 21 23.
Tel 055-21 90 41. Via Monte Napoleone, Tragicomica
Via Montenapoleone 3,
Via Monte Napoleone 2, Milan. Tel 02-77 70 01. Calle dei Nomboli,
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 00 54.
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 32 34. Cusi San Polo 2800, Venice.
Mandarina Duck
Galleria Cavour, 7/ABCDE, Corso Monforte 23, Milan. Tel 041-72 11 02.
Via dei due Macelli 59,
Naples. Tel 051-238 19. Tel 02-76 28 12 93. Rome. Tel 06-67 86 414. Venini
Giò Moretti Gioie Marinella Piazzetta dei Leoncini,
Via della Spiga 4, Milan. Via di Grotta Rossa 126A, Riviera di Chiaia 287A, San Marco 314, Venice.
Tel 02-76 00 31 86. Rome. Tel 06-33 26 03 51. Naples. Tel 081-245 11 82. Tel 041-522 40 45.
436 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
worn in the processions and Tasting Places, for example, trips are run by the Italian
pre-race pageants. Other festas organizes wine tours and week- Birds Protection League
celebrate the harvesting of local long courses in Italian cuisine. (LIPU). Cyclists will find miles
produce: the wine festivals held The course locations include of flat and scenic cycling
in September and October the Veneto, Sicily, Tuscany, routes in the Po Delta.
in Chianti, Tuscany, and the and Umbria.
Castelli Romani south of Rome, The Società Dante Alighieri
are popular with visitors. provides courses in the Italian Water Sports
Many events have an language, literature, history Most lakeside towns and
international flavor, such as of art, and culture. There are many seaside resorts in Italy
the film festivals held in Venice both full- and part-time rent out sailboats, canoes,
(Aug–Sep), Taormina, (Jul–Aug), courses available, for every and windsurfing equipment
and Rome (Oct). From May to level of ability. and lessons are often available.
June, Florence hosts an arts The Gruppo Archeologico Longer courses in a variety
festival and Syracuse celebrates Romano runs digs in various of water sports are organized
Greek drama. Ravello, near regions. There are summer and by clubs, which usually
Naples, hosts an international winter trips for both adults require membership.
festival of music each May. and children. The Federazione Italiana
Masked Venetians spill onto For those with an interest Attività Subacquee runs
the streets during Carnival in in more energetic activities, underwater diving courses.
February, and on summer the Federazione Arrampicata Most travel agents have a
evenings throughout Italy, Sportiva Italiana has a list of selection of sailing vacations.
tourists can join in street mountain-climbing schools that Swimming pools are
dancing at local festas. organize climbs for people of all expensive in Italy, but it is
abilities. Ski holidays are best cheaper if you pay for a certain
arranged with agents offering number of sessions or for a
Special Interest Vacations package deals. Trekking short membership. Water
Culinary holidays run by excursions can be organized parks are popular and provide
English-speaking experts in with Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). pools, slides, wave machines,
Italian cooking are very popular. Nature walks and bird-watching and games.
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Teatro dell’Opera Hollywood Italian Birds
Venues Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, Corso Como 15, Milan. Protection League
Rome. Tel 06-48 16 01. Tel 02-659 89 96. Via Udine 3A,
Ca’Rezzonico
∑ operaroma.it Pala AJ 43100 Parma.
Fondamenta Rezzonico
Tel 0521-27 30 43.
3136, Venice. Teatro La Fenice Piazza Carlo Stuparich 1,
∑ lipu.it
Tel 041-241 01 00. San Marco Campo, San Milan.
Fantin 1965, Venice. Società Dante
La Pietà Special Interest Alighieri
Tel 041-78 65 11.
Calle della Pietà, Venice. Vacations Piazza Firenze 27, 00186
Tel 041-522 21 71. Teatro San Carlo Rome.
Via San Carlo 98/f, Naples. Club Alpino Italiano Tel 06-687 36 94.
Ostia Antica
Tel 081-797 21 11. Via Galvani 10,
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, ∑ ladante.it
00153 Rome.
Rome. Tel 06-565 00 71. Verona Arena Tasting Places
Tel 06-57 28 71 43.
Pala AJ Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6/b, ∑ cairoma.it PO Box 38174,
Piazza Stuparich 1, Milan. Verona. Tel 045-800 51 51. London W10 5ZP,
Federazione
England.
Parco della Musica Clubs and Discos Arrampicata Sportiva
Tel 0208-964 5333.
Viale de Coubertin, Rome. Italiana
∑ tastingplaces.com
Tel 06-80 24 11. Casinò di Venezia Via del Terrapieno 27,
Calle Vendramin, Bologna.
San Siro Tel 051-601 48 90.
Water Sports
Cannaregio 2040.
Piazzale Angelo Moratti, ∑ federclimb.it
Tel 041-529 71 11. Federazione Italiana
Milan. Tel 02-48 79 82 01. Attività Subacquee
Gilda Gruppo Archeologico
Via A. Dona 8,
Opera Via Mario de’ Fiori 97, Romano
20124 Milan.
Rome. Tel 06-67 84 838. Via Contessa di Bertinoro 6,
Teatro alla Scala Rome. Tel 02-670 50 05.
Via Filodrammatici 2, Goa Tel 06-638 52 56. ∑ fias.it
Milan. Tel 02-887 91. Via Libetta 13, Rome. ∑ gruppo
∑ teatroallascala.org Tel 06-574 82 77. archeologico.it
438 I TA LY
Where to Stay
The Vatican and Price Guide
Rome Trastevere Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Hotel Trastevere €
Around Piazza Navona Budget Map C3 € under €120
Sole al Biscione €€ Via Luciano Manara 24, 00153 €€ €120 to €300
€€€ over €300
Historic Tel 06-581 47 13
Via del Biscione 76, 00186 ∑ hoteltrastevere.net
Tel 06-688 068 73 Simple, clean, and large rooms are
∑ solealbiscione.it available at this hotel, which also Florence
This basic but charming hotel offers a good breakfast spread.
claims to be the oldest in Rome. Antica Dimora Firenze €€
It also allows pets. Free Wi-Fi. Arco del Lauro €€ B&B
B&B Via San Gallo 72/r, 50129
Teatro di Pompeo €€ Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei 27, 00153 Tel 055-462 72 96
Historic Map C3 Tel 06-978 403 50 ∑ johanna.it
Largo del Pallaro 8, 00186 ∑ arcodellauro.it Canopy beds, antique furniture,
Tel 06-683 001 70 This tiny hotel in a picturesque and terracotta floors set this B&B
∑ hotelteatrodipompeo.it medieval location offers simple apart. Laptops and free Wi-Fi.
Built on the ruins of Pompeii’s but lovely rooms.
ancient theater, this hotel has Brunelleschi €€
simple rooms and friendly staff. Villa Riari €€ Historic
Budget Piazza Sant’Elisabetta 3, 50122
Grand Hotel de La Minerve €€€ Via dei Riari 44, 00153 Tel 055-273 70
Luxury Map C3 Tel 06-688 061 22 ∑ hotelbrunelleschi.it
Piazza della Minerva 69, 00186 ∑ villariari.it Housed in a Byzantine tower, the
Tel 06-695 201 This religious center with a Brunelleschi has opulent rooms.
∑ grandhoteldelaminerve.com pleasant garden offers simple
Excellent views from nearly every but clean and quiet rooms. Grand Hotel Minerva €€
room. The decor is luxurious, and Historic
the service is excellent. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 16,
Aventine and Lateran 50123
Domus Aventina €€ Tel 055-272 30
Northeast Rome Modern Map D4 ∑ grandhotelminerva.com
Via di Santa Prisca 11b, 00153 A panoramic terrace with a pool
Tel 06-574 61 35 gives a modern touch to one of
DK Choice ∑ hoteldomusaventina.com the city’s oldest hotels.
Hassler €€€ A well-located hotel, with many
Luxury Map D2 attractions within walking Relais Il Campanile €€
Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, 00187 distance. Quiet and simple rooms B&B
Tel 06-699 340 open onto a lush courtyard. Via Ricasoli 10, 50125
∑ hotelhasslerroma.com Tel 055-211 688
The discreet service, plush San Anselmo €€ ∑ relaiscampanile.it
furnishings, and stunning Boutique Map D4 Quaint rooms with wrought-iron
rooms make the Hassler a Piazza San Anselmo 2, 00153 features in a 17th-century palazzo.
favorite with celebrities. Guests Tel 06-570 057
can dine at the Michelin-starred ∑ aventinohotels.com
Imàgora restaurant or enjoy a Four-poster beds and clawfoot DK Choice
cocktail in the Hassler Bar. tubs are available at this tasteful Relais Uffizi €€
hotel that is close to many sights. Historic
Chiasso del Buco 16, 50122
Tel 055-267 62 46
∑ relaisuffizi.it
Situated behind the Piazza
della Signoria, the Relais Uffizi
is housed in a restored 16th-
century palace. The rooms are
large, bright, and charmingly
decorated. A buffet breakfast is
served in a room overlooking
the piazza. Pets are welcome.
Residenza Johanna €€
Pensione
Via Bonifacio Lupo 14, 50129
Tel 055-481 896
∑ johanna.it
This tiny and charming hotel is
Plush furnishings in the Grand Hotel de La Minerve, Rome fantastic value. Free parking.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 439
DK Choice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
Leonardo €
Boutique
Corso Magenta 78, 20123
Tel 02-48 01 41 97
∑ anticalocandaleonardo.com
Peacefully located in an elegant
19th-century palazzo, this
family-run hotel has well-
decorated rooms overlooking
a charming inner garden. The
staff are helpful and friendly.
Antiques and gilt mirrors adorn the rooms at Palazzo Abadessa, Venice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
SAN MARCO: Gritti Palace €€€ Solferino €€
Venice Boutique Map D4 Boutique
Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, 30124 Via Castelfidardo 2, 20121
CANNAREGIO: Tel 041-79 46 11 Tel 02-657 01 29
Palazzo Abadessa €€ ∑ thegrittipalace.com ∑ anticalocandasolferino.it
Historic Map C2 Stay in an iconic palazzo dating A welcoming guesthouse
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 back to 1475 but featuring most with eclectic old-world charm.
Tel 041-241 37 84 modern comforts. Small pets are allowed.
∑ abadessa.com
A charming 16th-century palace PADUA: Augustus Terme €€
with antiques in its large rooms. DK Choice Luxury
SANTA CROCE: Al Sole € Viale Stazione 150, 35036
CASTELLO: Pensione Wildner €€ Historic Map C4 Tel 049-79 32 00
Pensione Map F4 Santa Croce 136, 30124 ∑ hotelaugustus.com
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 Tel 041-244 03 28 Comfortable hotel with opulent
Tel 041-522 74 63 ∑ alsolehotels.com rooms, thermal swimming pools,
∑ hotelwildner.com Housed in Palazzo Marcello, and a reputable restaurant.
Family-run establishment with a 15th-century palace with a
wonderful views from the terrace. beautiful façade and marble- PORTOFINO: Belmond Hotel
floored reception area, Al Sole Splendido €€€
CASTELLO: Londra Palace €€ offers well-appointed rooms. Luxury
Boutique Map F4 Enjoy the rich breakfast spread Salita Baratta 16, 16034
Riva degli Schiavoni 4171, 30122 served in a patio garden. Tel 0185-26 78 01
Tel 041-520 05 33 ∑ hotelsplendido.com
∑ londrapalace.com Housed in a former monastery,
Spacious and luxurious rooms, this hotel has elegantly furnished
plus splendid views of the city rooms, many with private terraces.
and the lagoon. Excellent service. Northern Italy
TURIN: Hotel Conte
DORSODURO: GENOA: Hotel Villa Pagoda €€ Biancamano €€
Agli Alboretti €€ Room with a view Pensione
Pensione Map C5 Via Capolungo 15, 16167 Corso Vittorio Emanuele 73, 10128
Rio Terrà Foscarini 884, 30123 Tel 010-372 61 61 Tel 011-562 32 81
Tel 041-523 00 58 ∑ villapagoda.it ∑ hotelcontebiancamano.it
∑ aglialboretti.com A luxurious 19th-century villa An intimate hotel with elegant
Simple, comfortable rooms are with antique furniture. Located decor, located on the third floor
equipped with a free minibar. just steps away from the coast. of a 19th-century palazzo.
NAPLES: Decumani €€
Central Italy Naples and Historic
Via del Grande Archivio 8, 80100
ASSISI: Subasio €€ the South Tel 081-420 13 79
Modern ∑ palazzodecumani.com
Via Elia Frate 2c, 06081 AMALFI: Hotel Desirée € A 20th-century Baroque palace
Tel 075-81 22 06 Room with a view with tasteful, contemporary
∑ hotelsubasio.com Via Capo 31, 80067 furnishings. Free Wi-Fi.
Atmospheric and spacious rooms, Tel 081-878 15 63
some with terraces. Located ∑ desireehotelsorrento.com NAPLES: Grand Hotel
beside the famous basilica. This simple cliffside hotel offers Vesuvio €€
excellent value. There is also an Room with a view
elevator to a small private beach. Via Partenope 45, 80121
DK Choice Tel 081-764 00 44
BOLOGNA: Grand Hotel AMALFI: ∑ vesuvio.it
Majestic €€€ Antica Repubblica €€ Sumptuous lodgings with views
Luxury Boutique of the iconic Gulf of Naples. The
Via Indipendenza 8, 40121 Vico dei Pastai 2, 84011 two on-site restaurants also offer
Tel 051-225 445 Tel 089-873 63 10 panoramic views.
∑ grandhotelmajestic. ∑ anticarepubblica.it
hotelsbologna.it A charming hotel with a terrace
This legendary hotel expertly and elegantly furnished rooms
combines opulent old- featuring modern comforts. Sicily
world elegance with modern
comfort and hospitality. AMALFI: Bellevue Syrene €€€ AGRIGENTO: Camere del Sud €
Each room is individually Luxury B&B
decorated with lush fabrics Piazza della Vittoria 5, 80067 Via Ficani, 92100
and antique furniture. Breakfast Tel 081-878 10 24 Tel 349-638 44 24
is served on the romantic ∑ bellevue.it ∑ camereasud.it
rooftop terrace with sweeping Housed in a dreamy 18th- Stay in a warm, simple room
views of the city. The dining century villa with a flowering at this sunny B&B with friendly
room boasts beautiful frescoes. terrace and private beach access. and helpful owners.
DK Choice
MILAN:
Nobile Bistrò de Milan €€
Regional Italian
Corso Venezia 45, 20121
Tel 02-49 52 65 92 Closed 2 wks
Aug
Well-known Milanese chef
Claudio Sadler prepares
traditional meat and fish dishes
The outdoor eating area at Osteria da Rioba, Venice with a modern twist at this
reasonably priced restaurant.
SAN POLO: Da Fiore €€€ Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea,
Venice Fine Dining Map C3 aperitivo (aperitif ), and dinner
Calle delle Botteghe, 30125 are all served in an informal
Tel 041-523 53 10 Closed Tue; Jan atmosphere. Sit indoors or
DK Choice 8–22; 3 wks Aug in the private courtyard.
BURANO-MAZZORBO: Seasonal produce is the rule at
Venissa €€€ this restaurant said to be the best
Modern Italian in the city. Leave room for dessert. PADUA: Trattoria San Pietro €€
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3, Regional Italian
30170 Via San Pietro 95, 35139
Tel 041-527 22 81 Closed Tue; Tel 049-876 03 30 Closed Sun; Jul
Oct–May Northern Italy The perfect place for regional
Venissa guarantees a special dishes cooked with fresh local
gastronomic experience. The GENOA: Cantine Squarciafico €€ ingredients. Informal ambience.
menu features seafood, meat, Regional Italian
and vegetarian options made Piazza Invrea 3r, 16123 PORTOFINO: Da U Batti €€
using home-grown produce. Tel 010-247 08 23 Closed Mon Seafood
lunch; 1 wk Jan, 2 wks Aug Vico Nuovo 17, 16034
This wine bar serves up a range Tel 0185-26 93 79 Closed Mon;
CANNAREGIO: of Ligurian specialties, including Nov–mid-Jan
Osteria da Rioba €€ great stracci (a type of lasagne). A chic, intimate restaurant in one
Seafood Map C2 of Liguria’s most elegant towns.
Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553, Exceptional fish cuisine.
30121 DK Choice
Tel 041-524 43 79 Closed Mon LAKE COMO: VERONA: Il Desco €€€
A charming canal-side restaurant L’Angolo del Silenzio €€ Fine Dining
decorated with a seafood mosaic. Regional Italian Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5-7, 37121
Reserve in advance. Viale Lecco 25, 22100 Tel 045-595 358 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel 031-377 21 57 Closed Mon & (except Mon dinner Jul, Aug & Dec);
CASTELLO: Ristorante Wildner €€ Tue lunch; 2 wks Aug 2 wks Jun & Dec
Regional Italian Map F4 This osteria (wine bar) offers Housed in an old patrician house,
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 pasta, meat, game, and fish this elegant Michelin-starred
Tel 041-522 74 63 Closed Tue; dishes in a friendly atmosphere. restaurant offers a creative take
3 wks Jan Try the wild boar with red- on traditional Italian cuisine.
Diners can feast on fresh fish and currant sauce and Roquefort.
locally grown organic vegetables An inexpensive one-dish lunch
at this restaurant. There is also an is available on weekdays, and
interesting wine list. gluten-free dishes are prepared Central Italy
upon request. Book ahead.
SAN MARCO: Acqua Pazza €€ ASSISI: La Fortezza €
Seafood Map D4 Regional Italian
Campo Sant’Angelo 3808, 30124 MILAN: Pasta Madre € Vicolo della Fortezza 2b, 06081
Tel 041-277 06 88 Closed Mon; Modern Italian Tel 075-81 29 93 Closed Thu; Jul
Jan–Feb Via Bernardino Corio 8, 20135 Mostly traditional cuisine, with
This is where the Amalfi Coast Tel 02-55 19 00 20 Closed Sun; Aug some creative touches. Friendly
meets Venice. A different take Contemporary decor and a but professional service and a
on fish, with wines to match. relaxed ambience. Pasta Madre good price–quality ratio.
serves creative Italian fare, as
SAN MARCO: well as gluten-free desserts. BOLOGNA:
Trattoria Do Forni €€€ Antica Trattoria della Gigina €€
Fine Dining Map D4 MILAN: U Barba € Regional Italian
Calle dei Specchieri 468, 30124 Regional Italian Via Stendhal 1, 40128
Tel 041-523 21 48 Via Decembrio 33, 20137 Tel 051-32 23 00
Two dining areas with Tel 02-45 48 70 32 Closed Mon; Tue– This eatery delivers a modern
different decor serve careful Fri: lunch take on regional cuisine without
interpretations of classic A friendly Genoese osteria with compromising on the flavors.
Venetian cuisine. a bocce ball court. On the menu Extensive wine list.
Key to prices see page 441
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS 443
Naples and
the South
AMALFI: La Caravella €€€
Fine Dining
Via Matteo Camera 12, 84011
Tel 089-87 10 29 Closed Tue; Jan
& Nov
The award-winning chef at La
Caravella uses local flavors to
exalt the regional cuisine. Dine amid a lemon orchard at Da Paolino, on the island of Capri
I TA LY A N D G R E E C E 445
GREECE
Greece is one of the most visited countries in Europe, yet remains one of
the least known. Although most visitors will be familiar with the images of
Ancient Greece, the modern Greek state dates only from 1830. Situated at a
geographical crossroads, Greece combines cultural elements of the Balkans,
the Middle East, and the Mediterranean.
The idyllic Myrtos Bay as seen from the clifftops of Kefalonia, one of the Ionian islands
Dusk falls over picturesque Oia village, on the island of Santorini, in the Cyclades
446 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
Exploring Greece
From beaches to ancient archaeological
Skopje
sites, Greece boasts a wide range of
REPUBLIC OF
attractions. The nation’s greatest ancient MACEDONIA
monuments are located in the capital, Tirana
Athens, but relics of the Mycenaean, Kilkís
Minoan, Classical, and Byzantine
s
Gallikó
Ancient
civilizations can be found all over. The Flórina 2 Edessa
1
Préspa 2 Pélla
Greek islands attract thousands of
2
tourists, many of whom come simply to 4 Thessaloníki 2
15
Ptolemaïda
enjoy the sun and sand and the relaxed Kastoriá Véroia 16
as
pace of life. Ferries link the different
on
3
25
m
island groups to the mainland, and Kateríni
iák
20 Kozáni
Al
“island-hopping” is a popular ALBANIA
13
1
Sarandë 2 Mount
26
Olympos
15
is ´
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the Ionian Corfu Th
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27
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International boundary 9
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33
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7
Ancient Gorge
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Sights at a Glance
39
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2 Soúnio t Náfplio
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3 Monastery of Dafní y Monemvasía
9
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8 Thessaloníki a Corfu and the Ionian Islands Neápoli
Geroliménas
9 Ancient Pélla
Islands South of the Mainland Máni Elafónisos
0 Mount Athos Peninsula
(see inset map)
q Mount Olympos ´
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w Ancient Corinth s Cyclades
e Mycenae d Rhodes and the Dodecanese
r Epidaurus f Crete
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TURKEY
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Syros Islands South of the Mainland
Chios TURKEY
ATHENS
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DE LIG
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Sights at a Glance
I
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1 National Archaeological
TRIKO
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Museum
ADO
NOM
TOSI
TSAM
TSA
2 Monastiráki
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3 Ancient Agora
S
DONO
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4 Acropolis pp454–6
SPYRI
5 Plaka
PLATEIA
EXARCHEION
6 Temple of Olympian Zeus
7 Benáki Museum
8 Museum of Cycladic Art
AN
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OL PLATEIA
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2 Monastiráki
q Monastiráki. Market: Open daily.
View across the Agora, with the Theseion temple on the left
3 Ancient Agora ruins on the site are the Odeion tourists and Athenians, who
of Agrippa, a covered theater, come to eat in old-fashioned
Main entrance at Adrianoú,
and the Hephaisteion, a temple tavernas or browse in the
Monastiráki. Tel 210-321 0185.
q Thiseío, Monastiráki. Museum
to Hephaistos, also known as antique and icon shops, Pláka
and site: Open 8am–7pm daily the Theseion. still retains the atmosphere of a
(winter: to 3pm). Closed main public traditional neighborhood. The
Lysikrates Monument in Plateía
hols. & 7 limited.
4 Acropolis Lysikrátous is one of a number
The American School of See pp454–6. of monuments that were built
Archaeology commenced to commemorate the victors at
excavations of the Ancient the annual choral and dramatic
Agora in the 1930s, and since 5 Plaka festival at the Theater of
then a complex array of public q Monastiráki, Acropolis. v 1, 2, 4, Dionysos. Taking its name from
buildings and temples has been 5, and many others. a 4th-century BC sponsor of the
revealed. From about 3000 BC, winning team, it is the only such
the Agora was the political and The area of Plaka is the historic monument still intact in Athens.
religious heart of ancient heart of Athens. Even though Many churches are worth a
Athens. Also the center of only a few buildings date back visit: the 11th-century Agios
commercial and daily life, it to before the Ottoman period, it Nikólaos Ragavás has ancient
abounded with schools and remains the oldest continually columns built into the walls.
elegant stoas, or roofed inhabited area in the city. One The Tower of the Winds, in
arcades, filled with shops. The probable explanation of its the far west of Pláka, lies in the
state prison was here, as was name comes from the word grounds of the Roman Agora. It
the city’s mint. Even the used by Albanian soldiers in the was built by a Syrian astronomer
remains of an olive oil mill have service of the Ottomans who in the 2nd century BC as a
been found. settled here in the 16th century weather vane and water clock.
The main building standing – pliaka (old) was how they The name comes from external
today is the impressive two- used to describe the area. friezes depicting the eight
story Stoa of Attalos. This was Despite the constant swarm of mythological winds.
rebuilt in the 1950s on the
original foundations and using
ancient building materials.
Founded by King Attalos of
Pergamon (ruled 159–138 BC),
it dominated the eastern
quarter of the Agora until it
was destroyed in AD 267. It
is used today as a museum,
exhibiting the finds from the
Agora. These include a klepsydra
(a water clock that was used
for timing plaintiffs’ speeches),
bronze ballots, and items from
everyday life such as some
terra-cotta toys and leather
sandals. The best-preserved The Byzantine church of Agios Nikólaos Ragavás in Plaka
454 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
ACROPOLIS
In the mid-5th century BC, Perikles persuaded the AREIOS
PAGOS
Athenians to begin a grand program of new building PNYX
work. The resulting transformation has come to Plateía
Syntágmatos
embody the political and cultural achievements of HILL OF
THE
ancient Greece. Three contrasting temples were built NYMPHS
FILOPAPPOS
on the Acropolis, together with a monumental HILL
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Parthenon
Although few Practical Information
sculptures are left on Dionysíou Areopagítou (main
this famous temple to entrance), Pláka. Tel 210-321
Athena, some can still 0219. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
be admired, such as daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4:30pm
this one from the east daily. Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter
pediment (see p456). Sun, May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
New Acropolis Museum:
Tel 210-321 4172. Open 8am–
8pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm).
Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter Sun,
May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
∑ acropolisofathens.gr
Transport
q Acropolis. @ 230, 231.
Theater of
Dionysos
This figure of
Silenus, Dionysos’
tutor, can be seen
here. The theater
visible today
was built by
Lykourgos in
342–326 BC.
Temple Architecture
Temples were the most important public buildings in
ancient Greece, largely because religion was a central
part of everyday life. Often placed in prominent
positions, temples were also statements about
political and divine power. The earliest temples, in
the 8th century BC, were built of wood and sun-dried
The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens
bricks. Many of their features were copied in marble
buildings from the 6th century BC onward.
The cult statue was of the
The cella, or inner sanctum, god or goddess to whom the
Temple housed the cult statue. temple was dedicated.
Construction The pediment,
This drawing is of an triangular in shape,
idealized Doric temple, often held sculpture.
showing how it was
both built and used.
Fluting on the
columns was carved
in situ, guided by that on
A ramp led up to the the top and bottom drums.
temple entrance.
The column drums were
The stepped platform was initially carved with bosses
built on a stone foundation. for lifting them into place.
Entasis (a bulge in
the middle) makes each
4
9 column look straight.
4
Each column leans
9 slightly inward.
GREECE 459
Metopes
could Doric
contain capital
sculpture.
The
Ionic
frieze
Stone blocks were took the
smoothly fitted together place of
and held by metal Doric
clamps and dowels: no triglyphs
mortar was used in the and
temple’s construction. metopes.
7 Metéora
The extraordinary sandstone towers of Metéora (or “suspended
rocks”) were formed by the action of the sea that covered the
plain of Thessaly around 30 million years ago. The huge columns
of rock were first used as a religious retreat in AD 985, when a
hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave here. In the mid-14th
century, Neílos, the Prior of Stagai convent, built a small church.
A few years later, in 1382, the monk Athanásios, from Mount
Athos, founded the huge monastery of Megálo Metéoro on one
of the many pinnacles. A further 23 monasteries were built,
though most had fallen into ruin by the 19th century. In the
1920s, stairs were cut in the rock faces to make the remaining
six monasteries more accessible, and today a religious revival
has seen an increase in the number of monks and nuns.
MEGALO
METEORO
VARLAAM
AGIOS
NIKOLAOS ROUSANOU
Kalampáka
AGIA TRIADA
AGIOS STEFANOS
Kalampáka
Rousánou
Moní Rousánou,
perched precariously
on the very tip of a
narrow spire of rock,
is the most spectacularly
located of all the
monasteries. Its church
of the Metamórfosis
(1545) is renowned for
its harrowing frescoes of
grisly martyrdoms,
painted in 1560 by
iconographers of the
Cretan school.
KEY
1 Outer walls
2 Monastic cells
3 The refectory contains a small
icon museum.
4 Net descending from tower
Megálo Metéoro
Also known as the Great Meteoron, this was
the first and, at 623 m (2,045 ft), highest
monastery to be founded. By the entrance
is a cave in which Athanásios first lived.
His body is buried in the main church.
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9
GREECE 463
Ascent Tower
Goods and
people were
brought to the
top of the rock
in a net that
was pulled up
by a winch
mechanism,
made in 1536.
Varlaam
Founded in 1518, the monastery of
Varlaám is named after the first hermit to
Entrance live on this rock in 1350. The katholikón
(main church) was built in 1542 and
contains frescoes by the Theban
iconographer Frágkos Katelános.
The Building of
the Monasteries
Though it is unknown how the first
hermits at Metéora reached the tops
of these often vertical rock faces, it is
likely that they hammered pegs into
tiny gaps in the rock and hauled
building materials to the summits.
Another theory is that kites were
flown over the tops, carrying strings
attached to thicker ropes, which
were made into the first rope ladders.
How the ladders were anchored to
the rock is uncertain.
464 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
q Mount Olympos
17 km (10 miles) W of Litóchoro.
@ Litóchoro. n EOS: Evángelou
Karavákou 20, Litóchoro (23520-
The Russian Orthodox monastery Agíou Panteleímonos, on Mount Athos 83000). ∑ olympusfd.gr
413 to 399 BC. It is here that provide a fascinating insight The name Mount Olympos
Alexander the Great was born in into Orthodox monastic life. refers to a whole range of
356 BC, and was later tutored by For the monks who live here, mountains, 20 km (12 miles)
the philosopher Aristotle. Some the day begins at 3 or 4am with across. The highest peak in the
sense of the existence of a city morning services and prayers. range is Mytikas, at 2,917 m
can be gained from a plan of They eat two meals a day. There (9,570 ft). The entire area
the site, which shows where the are 159 fasting days in the year. constitutes the Olympos
main street and stores were Between meals, the monks National Park, an area of out-
located. The palace, believed to spend their time working, standing natural beauty that
have been north of the main resting, and praying. attracts naturalists and walkers
site, is still being excavated. Ouranoúpoli is the main town alike. The park’s rich flora and
At the site, and in the of secular Athos and where boat fauna include 1,700 plant
museum, are some of the best- trips for the peninsula’s west coast species, in addition to chamois,
preserved pebble mosaics in start. Among the monasteries boars, and roe deer. From
Greece. Dating from about that can be viewed are the Litóchoro, which has several
300 BC, the mosaics depict vivid 10th-century Docheiaríou, Agíou hotels and tavernas, walkers
hunting scenes. One of the most Panteleímonos, an 11th-century can follow a series of trails.
famous is of Dionysos riding a Russian Orthodox monastery, and A short distance from
panther; it is housed in the now- Agíou Pávlou. On the east Litóchoro is Ancient Dion,
covered, 4th-century BC House coast, Megístis Lávras was the considered a holy city by the
of the Lion Hunt. Originally first monastery to be founded ancient Macedonians. The flat
comprising 12 rooms around on Athos, while 10th-century plains were used as a military
three open courtyards, this Vatopedíou, farther north, is camp by King Philip II of
building was constructed at one of the largest and best- Macedon in the 4th century BC.
the end of the 4th century BC. preserved buildings. Adult The ruins visible today – which
males wishing to visit any of the include mosaics, baths, and a
monasteries must obtain a theater – date mainly from the
0 Mount Athos written entrance permit from Roman era. A museum shows
Athos Peninsula. g Dáfni (boat the Holy Executive of the Mount finds from the site.
trips from Ouranoúpoli & Sithonía
peninsula for the west coast, or from
Ierissós for the east coast). @ to
Karyés. & donation.
Agora
Odeion
South stoa
Theater
Basilica
Temple of
Lechaion Way Apollo
a holiday destination during the Roman era, and today their Zákynthos
beaches remain one of their most popular attractions.
Locator Map
The Palace of St. Michael
and St. George was built
by the British between Also worth seeing are the
1819 and 1824 to serve Town Hall – a grand Venetian
as the residence of a high building located in the Plateía
commissioner. Used for a Dimarcheíou – the Byzantine
short time by the Greek Museum, and the fascinating
royal family after the British Archaeological Museum. The
left the island, the palace is latter’s centerpiece is a stunning
now home to the eclectic Gorgon frieze.
Museum of Asiatic Art. On the town’s eastern side
The palace overlooks the stands the 16th-century
Esplanade, or Spianáda, a Venetian-built Old Fortress,
mixture of park and town which affords magnificent views
square, and the site of the over the town and along the
cricket ground. Once a island’s east coast. The New
The elegant parade of cafés known as the Venetian firing range, the Fortress was built shortly after
Liston in Corfu town cricket pitch was developed the old one to strengthen the
by the British, though it is no town’s defenses.
Corfu longer in use. Nearby, the Enosis
* 104,000. k 3 km (1.5 miles) S of Monument commemorates the P Palace of St. Michael
Corfu town. g Xenofóntos Stratigoú, 1864 union of the Ionian Islands and St. George
Corfu town. @ n Plateía Saróko. with the rest of Greece. The Palaia Anaktora. Tel 26610-30443.
Liston, a parade of cafés that Open 8am–8pm (to 3pm in winter)
Corfu offers the diverse was built in 1807 as a copy of the Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
attractions of secluded coves, Rue de Rivoli in Paris, lines one
bustling resorts, and traditional side of the square. Northern Corfu
hill villages. Between 229 BC Another of the town’s most Northern Corfu, in particular
and AD 337 it was part of the famous sights, the distinctive the northeast coast, is a busy
Roman empire. It remained red-domed belfry of Agios vacation destination, which
under Byzantine rule until the Spyrídon is the tallest belfry on boasts a whole host of popular
14th century, when the Corfu. The church was built in resorts and beaches. Set around
Venetians took control. French 1589 and dedicated to the a fishing harbor, Kassiópi has
and British occupation followed, island’s patron saint. retained its character in spite
before unification with Greece
in 1864. Though the island is
most popular for its beaches,
inland there are many places
where you can still observe
the traditional lifestyle of the
Corfiot people.
Corfu Town
The checkered history of the
island is reflected in Corfu
town’s varied architecture.
With its grand French-style
colonnades, elegant Italianate
buildings, and famous cricket
pitch, the town is a delightful
blend of European influences. The multiple picturesque bays of Palaiokastrítsa in northern Corfu
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9
THE GREEK ISLANDS 471
Zákynthos
Vacation apartments at Fiskárdo on the island of Kefalloniá * 40,000. k 4 km (2.5 miles) S of
Zákynthos town. g Zákynthos town,
of the influx of tourists. Nearby of Austria (1837–98). After a tour Agios Nikólaos. @ Zákynthos town.
are the ruins of a 13th-century of the palace and its gardens, n Lomvárdou St, Zákynthos town
castle, and the church of visit the Vasilákis Tastery (26950-25428).
Kassiopítra, which occupies the opposite, and sample this local
site of a former temple of Zeus. distiller’s kumquat liqueur. Zákynthos is an attractive
The bustling vacation center and green island, with good
of Sidári is famous for its sandy P Achílleion Palace beaches and beautiful scenery
beaches and unusual rock 10 km (7 miles) SW of Corfu town. @ to be enjoyed.
formations, while picturesque Tel 26610-56210. Open daily. Zákynthos town is the point
Palaiokastrítsa has safe of arrival on the island. Here, the
swimming and water sports, impressive church of Agios
as well as boat trips to nearby Kefalloniá Dionysios, and the Byzantine
grottoes. Vacationers wanting * 35,000. k 9 km (6 miles) S of Museum, which houses a
a diversion from the busy Argostóli. g Argostóli, Fiskárdo. breathtaking array of frescoes,
resort atmosphere can visit @ Ioánnou Metaxá, Argostóli. n both deserve a visit.
the 17th-century monastery, Waterfront, Argostóli (26710-22248). The growth of tourism on
Moní Theotókou. Zákynthos has been heavily
Mount Pantokrátor, a short The largest island in the Ionians, concentrated in Laganás and
drive north of Corfu town, is Kefalloniá has a range of its 9 km (6 mile) sweep of
the highest point on Corfu, it attractions, from busy beach soft sand. The resort’s hectic
offers fine views over the resorts to areas of outstanding nightlife continues until dawn.
whole island, and across to natural beauty. Alternatively, visitors can head
the Epirot mainland. The capital, Argostóli, is a to the island’s north coast for
busy town located by a bay. the beach resorts of Tsiliví and
Southern Corfu Of interest are the Historical Alykés, the latter being especially
More varied than the north, and Folk Museum and the good for windsurfing. At the
southern Corfu offers other Archaeological Museum. northernmost tip of the island
attractions apart from beaches. Around the island, the liveliest are the unusual and spectacular
Tranquil hillside villages, such as places are Lássi and the south- Blue Caves. The caves can be
Vátos and Pélekas, contrast coast resorts, but elsewhere visited by boat from below the
with busy resorts like Benítses, there are quiet villages and lighthouse at Cape Skinári.
offering a more traditional
image of Greece.
Among the more peaceful
spots in the south is the Korisíon
Lagoon, a 5 km (3 mile) stretch
of water, separated from the sea
by some of the most beautiful
dunes and beaches on Corfu.
The area provides a habitat
for many species of birds and
wild flowers.
A popular day trip from any
of Corfu’s resorts is to the
Achílleion Palace, built between
1890 and 1891 as a personal
retreat for the Empress Elizabeth The Blue Caves of Zákynthos at the northern tip of the island
472 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
s Cyclades
The most visited island group, the Cyclades are everyone’s
Greek island ideal, with their whitewashed, cliff-top villages,
ATHENS
blue-domed churches, and stunning beaches. The islands
vary greatly, from the quiet and traditional to the more
nightlife-oriented. The cradle of the Cycladic civilization Mýkonos
Mýkonos Town
The supreme example of a
Cycladic town, Mýkonos town
(or Chóra) is a tangle of dazzling
white alleys and cube-shaped
houses. It has a bustling port,
from where taxi boats for the
island of Delos leave. To the Lions carved from Naxian marble along the Lion Terrace on Delos
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9
THE GREEK ISLANDS 473
Náxos Town
Overlooking Náxos town’s
bustling harbor is the huge,
marble, 6thcentury BC Portára
gateway, built as the entrance to
the unfinished Temple of Apollo.
To the south, Agios Geórgios is
the main tourist center. The old
town divides into the Kástro –
the 13thcentury Venetian
fortifications – and the medieval
Boúrgos lower down. The fine
18thcentury Orthodox
Terraces of whitewashed buildings in Firá, Santoríni cathedral, the Mitrópoli
Zoödóchou Pigís, stands in
Santoríni Around the Island Boúrgos, which also has a busy
* 15,500. k 5 km (3 miles) SE of Within easy reach of Firá, on the market area. In the Kástro, the
Firá. g Athiniós, 7.5 km (5 miles) headland of Mésa Vounó, the Archaeological Museum, in a
south of Firá. @ 50 m (160 ft) ruins of the Dorian town of former French Jesuit school, has
S of main square, Firá. Ancient Thíra are not to be one of the best collections of
missed. Most of the ruins date Cycladic marble figurines in the
Colonized by the Minoans in from the Ptolemies, who built Greek islands.
3000 BC, this volcanic island temples to the Egyptian gods
erupted in about 1630 BC, in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. E Archaeological Museum
forming Santoríni’s distinct There are also Hellenistic and French Jesuit School. Tel 2285022725.
crescent shape. A popular Roman remains. Below the Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
tourist destination, it is a site are the popular beaches Closed main public hols. &
stunning island, as of Períssa and Kamári.
famous for its Another of the Cyclades’ Around the Island
ancient archaeological most inspiring archaeo South of Náxos town are
sites as for its logical sites, the Minoan many fine beaches, including
whitewashed villages, settlement of Akrotíri Agía Anna and Kastráki –
volcanic cliffs, and black was unearthed in 1967, the latter good for water sports
sand beaches. still preserved after some – and tranquil Pláka.
3,500 years of burial under Inland, the Tragaiá Valley is a
Firá volcanic ash. Some of the walkers’ paradise. It is dotted
Founded in the late frescoes discovered here with picturesque villages, such
18th century, Firá was are displayed in the as Chalkí, with its Venetian
destroyed by an A donkey ride in National Archaeological architecture. Nearby Ano Sagkrí,
earthquake in 1956 and Firá, Santoríni Museum in Athens (see a reconstructed Demeter
rebuilt with reinforced p452); others are in Firá’s temple, is the most interesting
concrete on top of the volcanic Museum of Prehistoric Thera. ancient monument on Náxos.
cliffs. Packed with hotels, bars,
and restaurants, its streets enjoy T Ancient Thira
magnificent views out to sea. 11 km (7 miles) SW of Firá. Tel 22860
The tiny cruiseship port of 23217. @ to Kamári. Open 8am–3pm
Skála Firón, 270 m (890 ft) Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
below, is connected to the
town by cable car or by mule
up 580 steps. Náxos
Among Firá’s most interesting * 12,500. k 2 km (1 mile) S of
sights are the Museum of Náxos town. g @ Harborfront,
Prehistoric Thera, housing Náxos town.
compelling finds from the
Ancient Akrotiri site, including The largest of the Cyclades,
vivid Minoan frescoes and a Náxos was a major center of
golden ibex figurine, and the the Cycladic civilization. The
Lignos Folklore Museum in Venetians, who arrived in the
Kondohóri suburb. 13th century, built many
fortifications that still stand on
E Museum of Prehistoric Thera the island today. The combin
Mitropóleos St. Tel 2286023217. ation of its history and superb
Open 8am–3pm daily (Nov–Mar: beaches make Náxos an ideal The Portára gateway that overlooks Náxos
Tue–Sun). Closed main public hols. & vacation destination. town’s harbor
474 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
Western Rhodes
A short distance southwest of
similar distance southwest of
Lindos, Asklipieió village offers
Kárpathos
Rhodes town, set on the the church of Kímisi tis * 6,000. k 17 km (11 miles) S of
beautiful green and wooded Theotókou, with vivid frescoes. Kárpathos town. @ corner of 28
hillsides of Filérimos, is Moní Oktovríou & Dimokratías, Kárpathos
T Acropolis at Líndos town. g Kárpathos town, Diáfani.
Filerímou. A place of worship for
n Kárpathos town, summer only
2,400 years, this monastery has 1 km (0.5 miles) E of Líndos village.
Tel 22440-31258. Open Apr–Oct: (22450-23835).
layers of history and tradition,
from Phoenician to Byzantine, 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm Despite an increase in tourism
Orthodox, and Catholic. Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols. & from the late 1990s onwards,
A few kilometers farther rugged Kárpathos remains
southwest, Ancient Kámeiros largely unspoiled. Its capital,
is one of the best-preserved Kos Kárpathos town, is a busy
Classical Greek cities. Its * 33,000. k 24 km (15 miles) SW of center, with hotels, cafés, and
remains include a 3rd-century Kos town. g @ Aktí Koudouriótou, restaurants around its bay.
BC Doric temple. Kos town. n Artemisías, Kos town. Nearby is the main resort of
Also worth visiting are the Amoopí, though good beaches
wine-making village of Emponas, Mainly flat and fertile, Kos is are rather distant. In addition to
and Petaloúdes, or Butterfly known as the “Floating Garden.” some magnificent beaches
Valley. Popular with walkers, this It has a wealth of archaeological northwest of the capital,
valley teems with Jersey tiger sites, Hellenistic and Roman ruins, including Lefkós and Ápella,
moths from June to September. and Byzantine and Venetian the island has places of
castles, many of which can be archaeological and historical
T Ancient Kámeiros found in Kos town. Here, the interest. Vroukoúnda has
36 km (22 miles) SW of Rhodes town. 16th-century Castle of the ancient walls and rock-cut
Open daily. Closed main public hols. Knights, the Ancient Agora, and tombs, mostly Hellenistic and
& 7 to lower sections only. the Roman remains should not Roman, while in Olympos
be missed. Most visitors come village traditional Greek life and
Eastern Rhodes for the sandy beaches. The best customs can still be observed.
Halfway along Rhodes’
sheltered east coast, Líndos
is one of the island’s most
popular resorts. A magnet for
tourists seeking sun, sea, and
sand, it is also famous for its
cliff-top acropolis overlooking
the bay. This temple site,
crowned by the 4th-century BC
Temple of Lindian Athena, was
one of the most sacred spots
in the ancient world.
A short drive from Lindos,
south of Láerma village, the
church of Moní Thárri shelters
the finest frescoes on Rhodes,
dating from 1300 to 1450. A Windmills in the traditional village of Olympos on Kárpathos
476 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
f Crete ATHENS
Locator Map
T Palace of Knossos
5 km (3 miles) S of Irákleio.
Tel 2810-231 940. @ Open daily.
Closed main public hols. & 8
The capital of Minoan Crete,
Knossos was the largest and
most sophisticated of the
Minoan palaces on the island.
Built around 1900 BC, the
first palace of Knossos was
destroyed by an earthquake in
about 1700 BC and was soon
Irákleio’s harbor, dominated by the vast Venetian fortress completely rebuilt. The ruins
visible today are almost entirely
Irákleio E Irákleio Archaeological from this second palace. They
* 174,000. k 5 km (3 miles) E. g Museum were restored by Sir Arthur
@ n Xanthoudídou 1 (2810- Corner of Xanthoudídou & Mpofór, Evans in the early 20th century;
246298). Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 2810-279086/ although the subject of
279000. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm academic controversy, his
A busy, sprawling town of daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Mon, reconstructions give one of
concrete buildings, Irákleio 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. & the best impressions of life in
nevertheless has much of interest This impressive museum Minoan Crete to be found
to the visitor. Four centuries of displays Minoan artifacts from anywhere on the island.
Venetian rule have left a rich all over Crete. Its most Highlights of a tour of the
architectural legacy, evident magnificent exhibits include a site – the focal point of which is
in the imposing 16th-century rock-crystal rhyton (drinking the vast Central Court – include
fortress overlooking the harbor, horn), and the Phaistos Disk, the replica of the Priest-King
and the elegantly-restored which was discovered at the Fresco, the Giant Pithos, one of
17th-century Loggia, a former site of the palace of Phaistos in over 100 pithoi (storage jars)
meeting place for the island’s 1903. Inscribed with pictorial unearthed at Knossos, the
nobility. Among Irákleio’s many symbols, the disk’s meaning Throne Room, believed to
churches, 13th-century Agios and origin remain a mystery. have served as a shrine, and the
Márkos, now the city’s main Among the museum’s many Royal Apartments. The original
picture gallery, and 16th- other treasures are the Snake frescoes from the palace are
century Agios Títos deserve a Goddesses, two figurines now housed in Irákleio’s
visit. Also not to be missed are dating from around 1600 BC. Archaeological Museum.
the Archaeological Museum
(see below) and the Historical
Museum, which traces the
history of Crete from early
Christian times. The heart
of the town is Plateía Eleftheríou
Venizélou, a bustling pedestrian-
ized zone of cafés and shops.
Those interested in the
beaches should head to the
package-tour resorts of Mália
and Chersónisos, just a short
drive east of the town. The South Propylon (entrance) of the Palace of Knossos
For hotels and restaurants see pp484–6 and pp487–9
THE GREEK ISLANDS 477
Chaniá
* 54,000. k 16 km (10 miles) E.
g @ n Kriári 40 (28210-92943).
with the locals. Jellyfish, restaurants, the service charge smallest resorts and remotest
sea urchins, and weaver fish is always included in the check, islands, and are the usual way
are potential hazards on but tips are still appreciated – of getting cash.
beach holidays. the custom is to leave between
10 and 15 percent. Taxi drivers,
hotel porters, and chamber Communications
Pharmacies maids do not expect a tip, but Public telephone booths are
Greek pharmacies, farmakeía, are not averse to them either. found at street junctions, though
are open from 8:30am to 2pm many fail to work and they are
Monday to Friday, but are becoming steadily rarer with
usually closed in the afternoon Photography the advent of the mobile phone.
and all day on Saturdays. In Taking photographs inside Before you leave home, make
larger towns, there is often a churches and monasteries is sure your phone has inter
rota system to maintain a usually forbidden in Greece. national roaming; price caps
service on weekends and Inside museums, photography introduced in 2015 make this
from 5:30 to 10pm on is usually permitted, although affordable within the EU. Another
weekdays. Details are posted in flashes and tripods are often option is to buy a local payas
pharmacy windows, in both not. Wherever you go, it is best yougo SIM card; of several
Greek and English. to gain permission before using providers, Cosmote has the best
a camera, as rules vary. coverage in remote areas.
Greek post offices
Facilities for the Disabled (tachydromeía) are generally
There are few facilities in Banking and Currency open from 7:30am to 2:30pm
Greece for assisting the The Greek unit of currency was Monday to Friday; some main
disabled, so careful, advance the drachma, but since January branches close as late as 8pm
planning is essential. 2002 it has been replaced by and occasionally open for a few
the euro (see p23). hours at weekends. All post
Greek banks open from 8am offices are closed on public
Etiquette to 2:30pm Monday to Thursday, holidays. They no longer offer
Though formal attire is rarely and 8am to 2pm on Friday. exchange services, but some
needed, modest clothing Exchange facilities are also serve as sending and receiving
(trousers for men and skirts and available at travel agents and points for Western Union money
covered shoulders for women) hotels, albeit at poor rates. transfers. Smaller Greek villages
should be worn when visiting Travelers’ checks are difficult to may not have an official post
churches and monasteries. exchange and not recom office; its function may be
Better hotels enforce a “smart mended. Cash point machines performed by a local store with
casual” dress code for dinner. In (ATMs) are found even in the more flexible hours.
DIRECTORY
Tourist USA & Canada Ireland Emergency
Information 305 East 47th Street, Vasiléos Konstantínou 7, Numbers
New York, NY 10017.
10674 Athens. (Nationwide)
Greek National Tel 210723 2771.
Tel 2124215777. ∑ dfa.ie/irish- Police
Tourist Board
embassy/greece Tel 100.
∑ visitgreece.gr
Embassies Ambulance
EOT in Greece: South Africa
Kifisías 60, 15125 Tel 166.
Dionysíou Areopagítou Australia
Thon Building, Kifisías & Maroússi. Fire
18–20, 105 58 Athens.
Tel 210617 8020. Tel 199.
Tel 210331 0392. Alexándras, Ampdlókipi,
11521 Athens. UK Coastguard Patrol
Australia Ploutárchou 1, Tel 108.
Tel 210870 4000.
37–49 Pitt St, 10675 Athens.
∑ greece.embassy.gov. Emergency
Sydney, NSW 2000. Tel 210727 2600.
Tel 29241 1663.
au/athn/home.html ∑ ukingreece.fco. Numbers (Athens)
gov.uk
UK Canada Tourist Police
Ethnikís Andistáseos 48, US Tel 171.
5th Floor East,
Vasilíssis Sofías 91,
Great Portland House, 152 31 Halándri. Doctors
10160 Athens.
4 Great Portland Street, Tel 210727 3400. Tel 1016.
Tel 210721 2951.
London W1W 8QJ. ∑ canadainternational. ∑ athens.usembassy. 24-hour Pharmacies
Tel 0207495 9300. gc.ca gov Tel 14944.
480 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines Rail Travel Car Rental Ferry and
Agencies Catamaran
Aegean Airlines OSE (Information
Tel 801-112 0000 or & Reservations) Avis Companies
210-626 1000. Sína 6, Athens. Leofóros Amalías 48,
Tel 14511. 10558 Athens. ANEK Lines
∑ aegeanair.com
∑ trainose.gr Tel 210-322 4951. Aktí Kondýli 24, Piraeus.
Astra Airlines ∑ avis.com
Train Station Tel 210-419 7170.
Tel 231-048 9390.
in Athens Hertz ∑ anek.gr
∑ astra-airlines.gr
Laríssis station (for Syngroú 12, 11742
Olympic Air northern Greece). Ticket Athens. Tel 210-922 0102. Blue Star
Tel 801-801 0101 or windows open 5am– ∑ hertz.gr ∑ bluestarferries.gr
210-355 0500. midnight.
∑ olympicair.com
Piraeus Port Hellenic Seaways
Buses Tel 14541 (ferry Tel 210-419 9000.
Ryanair departure/arrival times; ∑ hellenicseaways.gr
∑ ryanair.com Bus Terminals beware of expensive
in Athens connection charge). Minoan Lines
Sky Express Terminal A: Kifisoú 100.
Tel 801-112 8288 or 25is Avgoustou 17, Iraklio.
Tel 210-512 4910. Lávrio Port
281-022 3800. Terminal B: Liosíon 260. Tel 281-022 9602.
∑ skyexpress.gr Tel 210-832 9585. Tel 229-202 6859. ∑ minoan.gr
482 I TA LY A N D G R E E C E