(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Sam Atkinson - Simon Hall - Andrew Szudek (Ed.) - Europe (2017, DK Publishing) PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
EUROPE
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
EUROPE
Project Editor Ferdie McDonald, Claire Marsden
Art Editor Paul Jackson
Editors Sam Atkinson, Simon Hall, Andrew Szudek
Designers Anthony Limerick, Sue Metcalfe-Megginson, Rebecca Milner
Picture Researchers Katherine Mesquita, Alex Pepper, Lily Sellar
Map Coordinator Casper Morris
DTP Designer Maite Lantaron The tholos beside the Sanctuary of Athena
Pronaia at Ancient Delhphi, Greece (see p485)
Maps Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes, James Macdonald (Colourmap Scanning Ltd)
Photographers Max Alexander, Demetrio Carrasco, Kim Sayer, Linda Whitwam
Printed and bound in China

Contents
First American Edition, 2001
How to Use this Guide 6
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,

Visiting Europe
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
Discovering Europe 10
Reprinted with revisions 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017
Copyright © 2001, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
Putting Europe
on the Map 18
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
Practical and Travel
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright
Information 20
owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Europe at

A Penguin Random House Company a Glance
A Catalog Record for this book is available
from the library of congress. The Landscapes of
ISSN 1542-1554
Europe 30
ISBN 978-1-4654-5710-3
Great Museums
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; and Galleries 32
ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
The History of Europe 34
Britain and
Ireland
Great Britain 44
Ireland 110
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source
of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Front cover main image: Scuol Castle (Schloss Tarasp) on the hill in Engadine, Switzerland Statue of woman praying beside tomb of
Carlos I in Sao Vicente de Fora, Portugal
Santa Maddalena in Val di Funes at the foot of the Odle range, Italy
France and the
Low Countries
France 144
Belgium and
Luxembourg 212
The Netherlands 236
The Iberian
Peninsula The historic center of Graz, overlooked by the thickly-wooded Schlossberg, Austria (see p600)
Spain 266 Germany, Austria, Finland 650

Portugal 336
and Switzerland
Side Trip to
Germany 494 St. Petersburg 658
Italy and Greece
Austria 552 Central and
Italy 368
Eastern Europe
Switzerland 576
Greece 444 Czech Republic 668
Scandinavia
Hungary 690
Sweden 600
Poland 706
Norway 618
General Index 724
Denmark 634
Acknowledgments 758
Rail Map of Europe

inside back cover
The Baroque church of Santa Maria della

Salute, Venice, Italy (see p440)
The spectacular Mont-St-Michel

in France (see pp174–5)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Dorling Kindersley travel guide helps countries. Each country is described by a
you to get the most from your visit to Europe. historical portrait and illustrated with a map.
Visiting Europe maps the continent, and gives The main sightseeing section then follows,
tips on practical considerations and travel. with maps of the major cities within the
Europe at a Glance gives an overview of some country. For each country, there is a section
of the main attractions and a brief history. of practical and travel information, followed
The book is divided into seven sections, each by listings of recommended hotels
covering a group of two, three, or four and restaurants.
Europe Map 366  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E AT A G L A N C E  367
Italy and Greece at a Glance

The colored areas shown on the The appeal of Italy and Greece is both cultural and
hedonistic. As the cradles of Europe’s two great Classical
map on the inside front cover

civilizations, both countries are famous for their ancient
temples and monuments, concentrated principally in
the cities of Rome and Athens. Located in the southern
half of Europe, Italy and Greece share a sunny
indicate the 19 country chapters Mediterranean climate and a correspondingly

laid-back way of life. Away from the
main cultural sights, the
Locator Map
peaceful countryside,
in this guide. beautiful beaches, and

warm seas guarantee
a relaxed vacation.
Milan
Trieste
Venice
The Peloponnese (see pp466–9), a large peninsula, connected
Turin
to the rest of the Greek mainland by the Corinth isthmus,
Parma abounds in ancient and medieval ruins. The heavily fortified
Genoa sea port of Monemvasía, in the southeastern corner, has many
Bologna well-preserved Byzantine and Venetian buildings.
1
Florence
At a Glance
Ancona
Siena
The map here highlights the most

ITALY Pescara
(see pp368–443)
Rome
interesting cities, towns, and Naples

Foggia
Bari
Serres
Athens (see pp450–57)
regions in the countries covered

Brindisi Thessaloníki is renowned for its
Venice (see pp414–23) is a Kozani unrivaled collection of
city quite unlike any other: a Sardinia Classical antiquities.
fabulous treasure house of The world-famous
Ioannina
in the section (in this example

Lárisa Acropolis is dominated
art and architecture, built Corfu
on a series of islands, where by the 2,500-year-old
there are no cars and the Cagliari GREECE Parthenon, built as an
streets are canals. (see pp444–89) expression of the glory
Italy and Greece). Reggio di of ancient Greece.

Calabria
Palermo Patra Athens
Florence (see pp394–407) Sicily
embodies the Renaisssance of
art and learning in the 15th
century. Familiar masterpieces Kalamata
of the period, such as this copy 0 km 100 Rhodes Town
of Michelangelo’s David, adorn 0 miles 100 Rhodes
the streets.
Irákleio
Crete
Rome (see pp374–

87) owes its grandest
monuments to the
era of papal rule.
The vast colonnaded
I T A L Y A N D G R E E C E  square
3 6 9 in front of Crete (see pp476–7), the largest and most
St. Peter’s and the southerly of the Greek islands, boasts clear
Vatican was created blue seas and fine sandy beaches. Inland,
by Bernini in the there are ancient Minoan palaces and
ITALY 17th century.

Aerial view of Florence from Fiesole hill on a foggy morning, Italy
dramatic mountainous landscapes.
Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for centuries. Few
countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture, musical,
and literary traditions, its scenery, or its food and wine. Since World War II, Italy
has climbed into the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of
the customs, traditions, and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.
Italy has no single cultural identity. Germany and France, while the south
Between the snowy peaks of the Alps has suffered a succession of invasions
and the rugged shores of Sicily lies a from foreign powers: Carthaginians and
whole series of regions, each with its
own distinctive dialect, architecture,
Greeks in ancient times, Saracens and
Normans in the Middle Ages, and until Each country chapter has color-
and cuisine. There is also a larger regional the middle of the last century, the
division. People speak of two Italies:
the rich industrial north and the poorer
Bourbons from Spain held sway. coded thumb tabs.
agricultural south, known as Il Mezzogiorno History
(Land of the Midday Sun). Italy is a young country; it did not exist as
The north is directly responsible for a unified nation state until 1861. The idea
2
Italy’s place among the world’s top of Italy as a geographic entity goes back to
Introduction to a Country
industrial nations, a success achieved the time of the Etruscans, but prior to the
by names such as Fiat, Pirelli, Olivetti, 19th century, the only time the peninsula
Zanussi, Alessi, and Armani. The south, was united was under the Romans, who
This section gives the reader

in contrast, has high unemployment, by the 2nd century BC had subdued the
many areas in the grip of organized other Italian tribes and the Greek colonies
crime, and regions that rank among around the coast. Rome became the
an insight into the country’s

the most depressed in Europe. capital of a huge empire, introducing
History and geography have both its language, laws, and calendar to most
contributed to the division. The north of Europe before falling to Germanic
is closer both in location and spirit to invaders in the 5th century AD.
geography, historical background,
politics, and the character of the
people. A chart lists the key dates and
events in the country’s history.
The softly undulating hills of Tuscany

The awe inspiring ruins of the Roman Forum, Rome 372  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E I TA LY  373
Innsbruck Salzburg
Exploring Italy
Zurich
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND Distance chart
Italy’s elongated shape means travel 1 Bolzano Cortina d'Ampezzo Rome Distance by road in kilometers
S4
2
Distance by road in miles

can take up a fair proportion of your
A2
S5
383
1
S42 Bologna
visit. Rome, Florence, and Venice Domodossola
Lake Como
A23
SLOVENIA 238
(Lago di Como) Belluno Udine
Trento Ljubljana 562 783
are naturally the main tourist Lake Maggiore S13 349 487
Brindisi
(Lago Maggiore) Lake Garda
destinations, but there are many A5 (Lago di Garda) Zagreb 278 106 832
Florence
Bergamo Treviso 173 66 517
other attractive historic towns and Aosta
Malpensa
Vicenza Trieste 510 291 1064 225
Brescia Verona Genoa
cities that merit a detour of a A4
3
A4 Linate 317 181 661 140
A4 Venice
MilanA Rijeka 575 990 299 145
couple of days or more. Visitors A5 210
Country Map
1 Mantua Padua (Venezia) 357 130 615 186 90 Milan
Po N482 (Padova)
with time to explore often choose
A7
Turin (Mantova) Adige 219 594 354 489 714 786

(Torino) Po Naples
S2
to tour a particular region, such as A21 Ferrara 136 369 220 304 444 488
A2 2
3
Parma
S309
673 332 1111 395 170 138 884

A2
Tuscany, the Veneto, or the island A1

S 45
Turin
o
5 S1
For easy reference, sights in each

6
ar
418 206 691 245 106 86 549

Ta n A1
6
of Sicily. Road and rail connections Genoa

S20
(Genova) Bologna 530 154 928 255 397 273 741 402
A6 Venice
A10 Ravenna 329 96 577 158 247 170 460 250
are generally better in the north, S21 Portofino
where Milan, Bologna, and Verona Peninsula
A1 Rimini
SAN
country are numbered and plotted

2
La Spezia
are the key transport hubs. A11 MARINO Pesaro
C R OAT I A
San Remo
Lucca
Florence
S71
Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze)

S3
Ancona
MONACO Urbino
FRANCE Sea Livorno San
on a map. The black bullet numbers

Gimignano S7 6
Split
Siena Gubbio
Marseille
BOSNIA AND
A1
4
Perugia
S1
A1
S77
HERZEGOVINA
Assisi
S 2 23
Piombino Ascoli
(e.g. 3) also indicate the order

Piceno Adriatic
S4
Todi
Bastia Elba Orvieto Sea Dubrovnikk
Pescara
4
N193
A2
Orbetello
L'Aquila
Viterbo
Corsica
in which the sights are covered in

A1
Isole
A25
Civitavécchia
4
Sulmona Tremiti
N198
Sights at a Glance Ajaccio Fiumicino

1 Rome pp374–87 u Verona ROME (Roma)
S1 I T A L Y S8
9
the chapter.
48
2 Assisi pp388–9 i Vicenza Anzio A1
Foggia
Greece,
Egypt
N85
3 Perugia o Padua S 213
S87
S7
4 Siena pp390–92 p Venice pp414–23 Benevento A14 Bari
Naples
5 San Gimignano a Ferrara (Napoli) A16
S1
Greece
6
Porto Olbia Pompeii

N9
6 Florence pp394–407 s Bologna

25
A14
Torres
Isola d'Ischia 16
S
Sassari
7 Pisa d Ravenna Brindisi
Amalfi
S 1 31
8 Lucca f Urbino Alghero 31d Isola di Capri Amalfi S407

S7
S1 Coast Taranto Lecce
Agr i
9 Portofino Peninsula g Naples
S16
S18
06
0 Genoa h Pompeii
S1
q Turin j Amalfi Coast

Sardinia Ty r r h e n i a n A3
w Milan k Palermo Sea

S125
S1
e Lake Maggiore l Taormina

31
S1
8
Ionian
r Lake Como z Mount Etna Sea
S130
x Syracuse Cosenza
t Lake Garda Cagliari
y Mantua c Agrigento
Catanzaro
Sights at a Glance lists

e Eolie o Lípari
Isol
3
06
A
S1
Palermo Reggio di
the numbered sights in MEDITER Isole Messina Calabria

RAN Egadi Trapani Key
EAN A29 A20
8
Highway
A1
A1 9
Mount Etna Taormina
SE Major road
alphabetical order. 0 km 80
Tunis
A
Agrigento S i c i ly
S11
A19 Catania
Railroad
International border
5 Syracuse Ferry route
0 miles 80 (Siracusa)
Tunis Isola di Ragusa
Pantelleria
Malta
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3 For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
374  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E ROME  375
4
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DI S TIA
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BA
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2 Vatican Museums pp378–80 r Colosseum Piramide
376  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E ROME  377
from northwest to southeast, Line
RME
RTA
3 Castel Sant’Angelo t Santa Maria Maggiore

I
Stazione
B from southwest to northeast. Roma- Key
4 Villa Farnesina y Trevi Fountain The two lines meet at Stazione Ostiense
5 Santa Maria in Trastevere u Spanish Steps Sight / Place of interest
6 Piazza Navona i Santa Maria del Popolo
Termini, the city’s central station,
which is also the starting point
1 St. Peter’s
Pedestrian street
. Statue of St. Peter
This 13th-century bronze is thought to
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
7 Pantheon o Museo e Galleria Borghese for many bus routes. A third Catholicism’s mostCity walls
sacred shrine, the . Dome be by Arnolfo di Cambio. The foot of the Practical Information
8 Galleria Doria Pamphilj p Villa Giulia metro line is due for completion The 137 m (448 ft) statue has worn thin from the kisses of
vast, marble-encrusted basilica draws Piazza San Pietro.
9 Gesù in 2018. Official taxis are white or 0 meters 750 dome, designed by millions of pilgrims over the centuries. Tel 06-69 88 37 31.
0 Capitoline Museums yellow. Walking is preferable to pilgrims and tourists from all over the Michelangelo, was not
0 yards 750 ∑ vatican.va
q Trajan’s Markets driving in the city’s narrow streets. world. A shrine was erected on the site completed until 1590, Basilica: Open 7am–7pm
of St. Peter’s tomb in the 2nd century long after his death. (Oct–Mar: to 6:30pm) daily. 7
and the first basilica was commissioned Treasury: Open 8am–7pm
by Constantine.For keys to symbols see back flap
Centuries later, in 1506, (Oct–Mar: to 6:15pm) daily. &
Grottoes: Open 8am–6pm
Pope Julius II laid the first stone of a (Oct–Mar: to 5:30pm) daily.
new church while the original basilica Dome: Open 8am–6pm
was still in use. The present basilica, (Oct–Mar: to 5pm) daily. &
Strict dress code inside church.
187 m (615 ft) long, took more than
Sights at a Glance lists the

a century to build and all the great Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro.
architects of the Roman Renaissance
@ 23, 40, 49, 64, 81, 492.
and Baroque had a hand in its design.
numbered sights within the city. The dominant tone of the interior is set
by Bernini, creator of the baldacchino
below Michelangelo’s
. Michelangelo’s Pietà
Protected by glass since an attack in 1972,
magnificent dome. the Pietà stands in the first side chapel on
the right. It was created in 1499 when
Michelangelo was only 25.
5 Major Sights Baldacchino

Commissioned by Urban VIII
in 1624, Bernini’s extravagant
Historic buildings are dissected

Baroque canopy stands
above the Papal Altar, a plain
slab of marble, at which only
the pope may say mass. The
to reveal their interiors, while

altar is sited directly above the Filarete Door
tomb of St. Peter in the This bronze door,
Grottoes below. decorated with reliefs
by Filarete (1439–45),
museums and galleries have

was one of the doors
of the old St. Peter’s.
KEY
1 The Treasury is reached via the Monument to Pope
color-coded floor plans to help you Sacristy. It houses ecclesiastical Alexander VII
treasures, including reliquaries, Bernini’s last work in St. Peter’s was
tombs, and vestments. finished in 1678 and shows the pope
surrounded by the allegorical figures
find the most important exhibits.

2 The apse is dominated by of Truth, Justice, Charity,
Bernini’s spectacular bronze and Prudence.
monument containing the
Throne of St. Peter in Glory. Entrance for stairs
3 Two minor cupolas by to dome
Vignola (1507–73).
4 The facade (1614) is by
Carlo Maderno, who lengthened
Stars indicate the features the basilica to create its Latin-

cross floorplan.
5 From this window, the pope
Main entrance
that no visitor should miss. blesses the faithful gathered in the

piazza below.
6 The nave floor has markings that
The Grottoes
A fragment of this
13th-century mosaic by Piazza San Pietro
show the lengths of other churches Giotto, salvaged from the old The piazza in front of St. Peter’s is enclosed
compared with St. Peter’s. basilica, is now in the Grottoes, by a vast pincer-shaped colonnade by
where many popes are buried. Bernini. It is topped by statues of saints.
For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3
412  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E I TA LY  413
6
Verona’s patron saint, San Zeno
Maggiore is the most ornate
Romanesque church in northern
Italy, famous for its unusual
medieval bronze door panels.
Detailed Information
The Duomo also dates from
the 12th century and displays
Titian’s Assumption. Other notable
Cities, towns, and other sights
are described individually. Their
medieval churches in Verona are
San Fermo Maggiore, with
many interior frescoes including
the Annunciation by Pisanello
entries appear in the same

(1377–1455), and Sant’Anastasia,
which houses 15th-century
frescoes and holy water stoups
The Arena, Verona’s Roman amphitheater – the setting for spectacular summer opera performances supported by figures of beggars
y Mantua
* 55,000. £ @ n Piazza Andrea
frescoes by Mantegna in the
Camera degli Sposi (1465–74),
are a highlight. They portray the
u Verona
* 261,000. k Villafranca 12 km (7
known locally as i gobbi.
T Arena
Piazza Brà. Tel 045-800 32 04.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio in Padua, with its Byzantine domes
statues. Beside it stands the o Padua

order as the numbering on the
country map at the beginning
Mantegna 6 (0376-43 24 32). ( Thu. miles) SW. £ @ n Via degli Alpini 9
Gonzaga family and court, and (045-806 86 80). ( daily. _ Estate Open daily (Mon: pm only). 12th-century Torre di Piazza. * 220,000. £ @ n Vicolo
A striking if stern-looking city of the room is completed by a Teatrale Veronese (Jun–Aug); Opera Closed Jan 1, Dec 25–26. & The Loggia del Capitaniato, Pedrocchi (049-201 00 80).
fine squares and aristocratic light-hearted trompe l’oeil ceiling. Festival (Jul–Sep). + Castelvecchio to the northwest, was built ( Mon–Sat at Piazza delle Erbe.
of the section.
architecture, Mantua (Mantova The nearby Duomo has an ∑ tourism.verona.it Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045-806 26 by Palladio in 1571. Its upper ∑ turismopadova.it
in Italian) is bordered on three 18th-century façade and fine 11. Open daily. & = 8 (audio). rooms contain the city’s
sides by lakes. It was the interior stuccoes by Giulio Verona, a large and prosperous council chamber. Padua is an old university town
birthplace of the poet Virgil and Romano (c.1492–1546). city of the Veneto region, boasts Europe’s oldest surviving with an illustrious academic
playground for three centuries Piazza dell’Erbe is dominated magnificent Roman ruins,
i Vicenza indoor theater, the Teatro history. The city (Padova in
of the Gonzaga dukes. Mantua by the Basilica di Sant’ Andrea second only to those of Rome * 116,000. £ @ n Piazza Olimpico was begun by Italian) has two major
was also the setting for Verdi’s (15th century), designed largely itself, as well as some important Matteotti 12 (0444-99 47 70). ( Tue & Palladio in 1579 and attractions – the Basilica di
opera Rigoletto, and is by the early Renaissance medieval monuments. Thu. _ Concert season (May–Jun). completed by his pupil, Sant’Antonio, one of the
mentioned in Shakespeare’s architect and theorist, Alberti. The Arena, Verona’s Roman ∑ vicenzae.org Vincenzo Scamozzi. It most popular sites of
Romeo and Juliet. These Across town is the early amphitheater completed in was Scamozzi who pilgrimage in Italy, and
theatrical connections are 16th-century Palazzo Tè, AD 30, is the third largest in the Vicenza is celebrated for its created the permanent the Cappella degli
celebrated in local street names designed as the Gonzaga world. Concerts, plays, and splendid, varied architecture. stage, built of wood Scrovegni, a beautifully
and monuments, and are
reinforced by the presence in
the town of the 18th-century
family’s summer retreat. This
extraordinary palace is
decorated with frescoes by
opera productions are staged
here. Other Roman sites include
the Roman Theater, and artifacts
Known as the city of Andrea
Palladio (1508–80), stonemason
turned architect, it offers a
and plaster and painted
to look like marble. It
represents Thebes, a
decorated chapel. The
exotic Basilica was built
from 1232 to house
Each entry begins with essential
practical information, including
Teatro Scientifico Bibiena, a Giulio Romano and has rooms from Roman times can be seen unique opportunity to study the Greek city, and uses the remains of the great
masterpiece of late Baroque lavishly painted with horses and in the Museo Archeologico. evolution of his distinctive style. perspective to create Franciscan preacher,
theater architecture. signs of the zodiac. The tragic story of Romeo Piazza dei Signori at the an illusion of depth. St. Anthony of Padua.
the address and telephone number

Mantua is focused on three and Juliet, first set here by Luigi heart of Vicenza is dominated Palladio was also The chapel (1303)
attractive main squares. Piazza P Palazzo Ducale da Porto in the 1520s and by the Palazzo della Ragione, responsible for the features a series of
Sordello is the site of the Palazzo Piazza Sordello 40. Tel 0376-35 21 00. immortalized by Shakespeare, known also as the Basilica. design of Palazzo frescoes depicting the
Ducale, the vast former home of Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1, has inspired local monuments Palladio’s first public Chiericati which houses Memorial to Andrea life of Christ, painted
the Gonzaga family which also
incorporates a 14th-century
fortress and a basilica. The
Dec 25. & 8 (audio). 7 Camera
degli Sposi: Tel 041-241 18 97.
Open by appointment only.
such as Romeo’s House and
the so-called Tomb of Juliet.
Verona’s focal point is Piazza
commission, this building has
a roof like an upturned boat,
and a balustrade bristling with
the Museo Civico, but
the epitome of his work
can be seen in the Villa
Palladio in Vicenza by Giotto. The Museo
Civico Eremitani on
the same site has a rich
of the local tourist information
Erbe, scene of colorful markets
for 2,000 years.
The ornate tombs of members
Rotonda, in the countryside
to the south of Vicenza.
coin collection and an art gallery.
Other attractions include
the Duomo and Baptistry,
office. Opening times are given for
major sights and museums.
of the Scaglieri family, who ruled P Piazza dei Signori which contains one of Italy’s
the city for 127 years from 1263, Basilica: Tel 0444-22 28 11. Open daily most complete medieval fresco
are situated beside the entrance during exhibitions. & cycles (painted by Giusto de’
to the church of Santa Maria Menabuoi in 1378), and the
P Teatro Olimpico
Antica. Another legacy of the Palazzo della Ragione, built in
Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444-22 28 00.
family is Castelvecchio, an 1218 to serve as Padua’s law
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
impressive castle built by &7
court and council chamber.
Cangrande II between 1355
and 1375. There is a fine art P Villa Rotonda R Cappella degli Scrovegni
gallery in the castle, which has a Via della Rotonda 45. Tel 0498-79 13 Piazza Eremitani. Tel 049-201 00 20.
collection of 15th-century late 80. Villa: Open Mar–Nov: Wed & Sat. Open daily (advance booking
Renaissance Madonnas. Built in The illusionistic stage set of the Teatro & Garden: Open Tue–Sun. & 7 necessary). Closed public hols.
The 13th-century facade of the Palazzo Ducale in Mantua 1125–35 to house the shrine of Olimpico in Vicenza 4 3 0∑ villalarotonda.it
I TA LY A N D G R E E C E &7 I TA LY  431
Practical Information Visa Requirements

Citizens of the European Union
anything stolen, you should go
to the nearest police station and
traditional social formalities.
Ciao should only be used as
and are usually open all day,
and also into the evening
Italy’s charm and allure help to mask an idiosyncratic (EU), US, Canada, Australia, and file a report (denuncia). a greeting for familiar friends, in resorts. However, they
infrastructure in which delays and long lines are common. Be New Zealand do not require a otherwise piacere (pleased to quite often tend to have less
7
prepared to wait in offices and banks, and to persevere when visa for stays of up to three meet you), buon giorno (good favorable exchange rates and
Emergency Services
Practical Information
months. Most European Union day), or buona sera (good charge a higher commission
seeking information. However, communications – other than
visitors need only a valid In case of emergencies while evening) are polite greetings. than banks. Post offices usually
the post office – are good, and banking and exchange facilities identity document to enter Italy. on vacation, the appropriate Say arrivederci on parting. have the lowest charges.
are widely available. Italy is generally safe for visitors and there Citizens from other countries numbers to call are listed in Kissing on the cheeks is
This section covers subjects

is a visible police presence should a crisis arise. Personal belong should contact their Italian the directory below. common among friends, but
consulate for visa information. shake hands with strangers. Communications
ings should nevertheless be watched at all times. Many shops
and offices close at lunch for the siesta, reopening in the late Tipping of taxi drivers and Post offices open from about
Health Issues waiting staff in restaurants is 8am to 2pm weekdays, and
afternoon. Pharmacies are a useful first stop for health advice. Personal Security
such as visas, security, travel,

No inoculations are needed for not common practice among from 8am to noon on Saturday.
Although petty crime in the Italy, but it is advisable to carry Italians. However, when a service Main post offices are usually
cities is frequent, violent crime mosquito repellent in the charge is added to a restaurant open from 8am to 6pm or 7pm
When to Visit deals exclusively with an in Italy is rare. However, it is summer months. If emergency bill, it is non-negotiable. Hotel non-stop. The red mailboxes
shopping, and entertainment. Italy’s towns and historic

sites are extremely popular
attractions and it is worth
considering this when planning
individual town. All can help
with hotel reservations and
local tour guides. They also
provide free maps and guide-
common for people to raise
their voices aggressively during
an argument. Usually, remaining
calm and being polite will help
medical treatment becomes
necessary, you should go to the
Pronto Soccorso (emergency
room) of the nearest hospital.
porters expect a reasonable tip
if they have been helpful.
(blue in the Vatican City) usually
have two slots labeled per la
città (for the city only) and
tutte le altre destinazioni (for
The larger countries are covered your trip. Rome, Florence, and
Venice are all crowded from
spring to October and it is
books in several languages.
Opening Hours
to defuse the situation.
Unofficial tour guides, taxi
drivers, or strangers who try to
Various medical products,
including homeopathic
medicines, are available in any
Facilities for the Disabled
Public awareness of the needs
of the disabled is improving
all other destinations). The
Italian postal service was once
renowned for its unreliability,
in greater detail.
advisable to reserve a hotel advise you on accommodations pharmacy (farmacia), but a quickly in Italy. CO.IN.Sociale but has improved in recent
well in advance. In August the Italian museums are gradually may expect money in return. prescription may be required. (Consorzio Cooperative years. The standard mail service
cities are generally slightly less conforming to new regulations, Women traveling alone in Thanks to a night rota (servizio Integrate) provides information is called prioritaria.
busy, and the seaside resorts particularly in the north, opening Italy are likely to meet with a lot notturno) – listed in the local on facilities for the disabled. The few public telephones
fill up. June and September daily from about 9am to 7pm, of attention, although this is pages of daily newspapers and remaining are generally card-
can be as hot as midsummer, but some still close on Mondays. often more of an irritation than on pharmacy doors – there is operated. A telephone card
but the beaches are less In summer, many museums stay a danger. Staff at hotels and always a pharmacy open in all Banking and Currency (scheda telefonica) can be
crowded. The skiing season open longer at weekends. In restaurants generally treat their cities and most towns. Italy has used the euro since purchased from bars, newspaper
runs from December to Easter. winter, opening times are more single female customers with 2002 (see p23). Banks open kiosks, post offices, and
limited. It is advisable to check extra care and attention. between about 8:30am and tobacconists (tabacchi). A corner
beforehand. Archaeological Language and Etiquette 1:30pm Monday to Friday. of the card must be broken off
Tourist Information sites usually open from 9am to People in Italy are very dress- Most also open from 2:15 to before use. Alternatively, many
Police
Directory boxes give contact
The national tourist board, ENIT, an hour before sunset, Tuesday conscious and unusual or risqué 3pm or 2:30 to 3:30pm. towns have telephone offices
has branches in capital cities to Sunday. Churches are open There are several different police clothes get noticed. Strict dress Electronic exchange (Telefoni) with low rates for
worldwide and offers general from about 7am to 12:30pm forces in Italy and each one codes are enforced in many machines, with multilingual long-distance calls. Here, you
information on Italy. Locally, and 4 to 7pm, but they often fulfills a particular role. Both the places of worship, where your instructions, are located at all are assigned a booth and pay
information for the services there are two types of tourist

office: an EPT (Ente Provinciale di
Turismo) has information on its
prefer not to admit tourists
during services.
Visits to some of the more
state police, the polizia and the
carabinieri, deal with crime in
general and they also conduct
torso, knees, and upper arms
should be covered. Forms of
address are still governed by
major airports, train stations,
and banks. Bureaux de change
can be found in main towns,
after calls are completed. Credit
cards can only be used to make
calls at major airports.
and venues mentioned in the text. town and surrounding province,

whereas an APT (Azienda di
Promozione Turistica) or a PIT
popular tourist sights, such as
Leonardo da Vinci’s painting of
The Last Supper in Milan, must
random security checks. The
vigili urbani, the municipal traffic
police, issue fines for traffic and
DIRECTORY
(Punto di Informazioni Turistiche) be organized in advance. parking offences. If you have Tourist Offices ENIT UK Canada Emergency
Tel 020-7408 1254. Via Zara 30, Rome. Numbers
APT Florence ∑ italiantouristboard. Tel 06-854 44 39 37. General Emergency
The Climate of Italy ROME VENICE Via Manzoni 16. co.uk
∑ canada.it Tel 113.
The Italian peninsula has a Tel 055-233 20. ENIT US
varied climate falling into UK Medical Emergency
°C/ºF °C/ºF APT Milan Tel 212-245 5618.
three distinct geographical 29/84 28/82 ∑ italiantourism.com Via XX Settembre 80, Tel 118.
regions. Cold Alpine winters 22/72 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
18/64 19/66 18/64 18/64 Rome. Tel 06-42 20 00 01. Police (Carabinieri)
and warm, increasingly wet 13/55 12/54
17/63 II. Tel 02-84 45 55 55. PIT Rome
∑ gov.uk/government/ Tel 112.
Climate charts (see p21) are summers characterize the 9/48 7/44 9/48
7/44 Via Nazionale.
4/40
northern regions. In the 0/32 APT Venice Tel 06-06 08. world/organisations/
Facilities for the
extensive Po Valley, arid 6 10 7 5 7 9 4 2 Castello 5050. british-embassy-rome
Embassies Disabled
summers contrast with
provided for each country.

hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
Tel 041-523 59 13.
freezing, damp winters. The US
51 21 95 87 112 108 134 90 Australia CO.IN.Sociale
rest of Italy has long, and mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm ENIT Rome Via A. Bosio 5, Rome.
Via Veneto 121, Rome. Via Enrico Giglioli 54A,
often very hot, summers month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan Via Marghera 2. Tel 06-467 41. Rome. Tel 06-712 9011.
Tel 06-85 27 21.
and mild, sunny winters.
Tel 06-497 11. ∑ enit.it ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au ∑ italy.usembassy.gov ∑ coinsociale.it
VISITING
EUROPE
Discovering Europe 10–17

Putting Europe on the Map 18–19
Practical Information 20–23
Travel Information 24–27
10  VISITING EUROPE
DISCOVERING EUROPE
The great cities of Europe are the key to a single trip, they are the hubs around which
discovering the countries in which they sit. national and international travel revolves,
In each, the visitor will get a real flavor of the with excellent rail, road, and air links. Each
history, culture, character, and, of course, of the following 14 itineraries offers a two-
cuisine of the nation – an ideal introduction day exploration of one of Europe’s most
for those on a short break. For visitors with beguiling cities, covering the must-visit
more time available, these cities provide a sights. From vibrant Barcelona to elegant
perfect base for exploring farther afield. For Stockholm, romantic Paris to revitalized
anyone keen to tour more of the continent in Berlin, there is something for everyone.
FINLAND
NORWAY
SWEDEN
Stockholm
North
Sea Baltic
IRELAND
DENMARK Sea
Dublin
G R E AT
B R I TA I N
Amsterdam Berlin
London NETHERLANDS
POLAND
Atlantic BELGIUM GERMANY
Ocean LUX.
Prague
Paris CZECH REP.
Munich Vienna
AUSTRIA HUNGARY
Bay of FRANCE SWITZERLAND
Biscay
Venice
PORTUGAL I T A LY
S PA I N
Barcelona Rome
Madrid
GREECE
Athens
Mediterranean Sea
0 kilometers 500
0 miles 500
The Great Cities of Europe
•
Enjoy delightful canalside •
In London, royal heritage and discovered, as well as many
walks in leafy Amsterdam. history mingle with lively architectural delights.
•
Reminders of seven millennia contemporary culture. •
Rome has ancient ruins, great
of history are all around Athens. •
Tapas, flamenco, and great art, and a lively café culture.
•
Barcelona boasts Modernista museums: Madrid has the lot. •
Stockholm is a culture-packed
buildings and medieval history. •
Explore Munich’s architecture city in a lovely lakeside setting.
•
Modern Berlin is steeped in and art, and enjoy a stein or two. •
Exquisite Venice is a city that
history, including relics of a •
View the streets of Paris from seems to rise out of the water.
tumultuous 20th century. on high, atop the Eiffel Tower. •
Get a bird’s-eye view of the
•
Dublin provides art and •
Prague is full of historic and grand boulevards of Vienna
culture, plus great Guinness. cultural treasures waiting to be from its iconic Ferris wheel.
Tourists enjoying the sights of St Mark’s Square in Venice, Italy

DISCOVERING EUROPE  11
Two Days in
Amsterdam
•
Discover Amsterdam’s
distinguished history at
the Koninklijk Paleis
•
Stroll along the canals
of the delightful
Grachtengordel
•
Be moved by the Anne
Frank House
Day 1
Morning Start the day at the
Dam, a busy square in the city
center that is famous for its
buildings and frequent events. Crowds of people in bustling Dam Square, Amsterdam
Dodging the trams, proceed
to the Nieuwe Kerk (p244), Afternoon After lunch, visit Afternoon Make your way,
one of Amsterdam’s most the city’s third major museum, via the Tower of the Winds
impressive Gothic buildings. the Stedelijk Museum (p251), (p453) in the Roman Agora,
Afterward, pop next door to a gallery devoted to modern down to bustling Plaka (p453)
explore the Koninklijk Paleis and contemporary art. for a late lunch of mezédes.
(p244). This royal palace was Alternatively, if museum fatigue Spend the afternoon browsing
built in the 17th century, when is setting in, venture out from Plaka’s quirky crafts and
the city was at its richest, as the the tourist zone to explore antiques shops, then head
town hall. Inside, the highlight the maze-like streets of the over to the Temple of
is a magnificent marble Jordaan (p246) or rest your Olympian Zeus (p457) for
chamber, the Citizens’ Hall. legs on a relaxing canal tour dramatic sunset views of the
by boat (p259). Acropolis through Hadrian’s
Afternoon Take a stroll along Arch (entry is included in the
the Singel, the first of the price of your Acropolis ticket).
four canals that make up the
Two Days in Athens
Grachtengordel (p246), or Day 2
“girdle of canals”. This is •
Explore the Parthenon Morning Devote part of the
Amsterdam at its most and other magnificent morning to the amazing flea
beguiling, its olive-green ruins of Ancient Greece market and stores of lively
canals spanned by hump- •
Get lost among the flea Monastiraki (p452). Pick up a
backed bridges. Don’t miss markets and antiques stalls selection of delicious freshly
the interesting exhibition at of Monastiraki and Plaka made savories and cakes
Het Grachtenhuis (p246) from one of the many bakeries
•
Admire exquisite works
or the Renaissance Westerkerk here, then pause for a picnic
of art and craftsmanship
(p246), with its mighty spire. lunch in the shaded oasis of
at the Museum of
Next, head for the Anne Frank the National Gardens on your
Cycladic Art and the
House (p245), where the way to the Byzantine and
renowned National
teenage Jewish diarist hid from Christian Museum (p457).
Archaeological Museum
the Nazis during World War II.
Afternoon Having marveled at
Day 2 Day 1 the rich gold Hoard of Mytilene
Morning Spend a couple of Morning Start early to beat and the rare icons and frescoes,
hours at the Rijksmuseum the worst of the crowdsand move on to the nearby
(pp248–50), Amsterdam’s wander through the ruins Museum of Cycladic Art
principal art museum, admiring of the Ancient Agora (p453). (p457), with its exquisite works
its fabulous collection of Visit the museum in the Stoa of ancient art, and the
Dutch paintings, especially of Attalos, which displays items fascinating Benáki Museum
the Rembrandts. Afterwards, unearthed during excavations, (p457), housed in a beautiful
visit the Van Gogh Museum then make your way up to the mansion. Alternatively, catch
(p251), which is devoted to Acropolis (pp454–6) and spend a bus across town to the vast
arguably the greatest of all the rest of the morning National Archaeological
Dutch painters and contains admiring the Parthenon (p456) Museum (p452), whose
a remarkable collection of and visiting the New Acropolis spectacular collections include
his work. Museum (p456). many rare and unique exhibits.
spend the whole morning promenade that reveals the

discovering the basilica’s many swagger of 19th-century Prussia
delights. This district has through monuments like the
countless excellent restaurants Neue Wache and the Baroque
and tapas bars to choose from Zeughaus (p502). There are
for both lunch and dinner. plenty of places here to pause
for lunch, from charming cafés
Afternoon Wander along to jovial beer gardens.
the Passeig de Gràcia (p301),
Barcelona’s most fashionable Afternoon The handsome
street and the heart of the Schlossbrücke bridge hints at
city’s Quadrat d’Or (“golden the cultural feast to be found
square”), perhaps doing a bit of on Museum Island (p500). With
shopping at one of the chic its remarkable collection of
Chimneys on the roof of the Gaudí- boutiques here. This street is antiquities, the Pergamon
designed La Pedrera, Barcelona home to two of Gaudí’s most museum (p504) certainly
spectacular domestic buildings: deserves a visit. Afterward, stop
La Pedrera and Casa Batlló in at the Berliner Dom (pp506–
Two Days in (p301). Both are open to visitors, 7), then take a quiet stroll into
Barcelona but if short of time, you can just picturesque Nikolaiviertel
admire their stunning facades. (p505) to get a sense of Berlin’s
•
Admire Antoni Gaudí’s medieval roots.
unfinished masterpiece,
the Sagrada Família Two Days in Berlin Day 2
•
Get lost in the medieval Morning After exploring
warren of the Barri Gòtic
•
Stroll down beautiful Berlin’s historic core, the focus
(Gothic Quarter) Unter den Linden, shifts to more recent history.
pausing for a spot of Checkpoint Charlie (p508), the
•
Tuck into authentic paella café culture on the way East–West border immortalized
by the beach •
Reflect on Berlin’s by many Cold War thrillers, is
tumultuous recent past an essential stop. The darkest
Day 1 at Checkpoint Charlie period in German history is
Morning Explore one of the and the KaiserWilhelm chillingly laid bare in the
largest and best-preserved Gedächtniskirche Jüdisches Museum (p508),
medieval neighborhoods while the wave-like Holocaust
•
Explore the Kulturforum
in Europe, the Barri Gòtic Denkmal (p503) represents the
or Museum Island for
(pp298–9). Admire the stunning scale of the Jewish tragedy in
breathtaking art and
Cathedral (p299), particularly stark sculptural form.
other treasures
the enchanting cloister, and
visit the remnants of the Afternoon After lunch in one
ancient Roman settlement Day 1 of the several cafés in the
in the Museu d’Història de Morning Start at the icons of Tiergarten (p503), enjoy a
Barcelona (p299). Have lunch a reunified Germany: climb up bucolic stroll there. Afterward,
in one of the area’s many inside the glass dome of the pore over the Old Masters in the
restaurants and cafés. Reichstag (p502), then circuit Gemäldegalerie or the crafts in
the mighty Brandenburg the Kunstgewerbemuseum,
Afternoon Stroll down La Gate (p502). Beyond it is Unter both part of the Kulturforum
Rambla (p300), then make den Linden (p502), the leafy (p503). For more astonishing
your way along the harbor
to fascinating Montjuïc
(p304) for spectacular city
views and for the vibrant
surrealist art on show at the
Fundació Joan Miró (p304).
Finish the day with paella on
the seafront.
Day 2
Morning Head to the Eixample
district, home to Antoni Gaudí’s
extraordinary Sagrada Família
(pp302–3), its towers visible
across the city, yet still awaiting
completion. You’ll want to The majestic cupola of the Berliner Dom, Berlin
craftsmanship, take the U-Bahn

west from Potsdamer Platz
(p503) to beautiful Schloss
Charlottenburg (p509). Alter-
natively, admire the mosaics in
the shattered Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedächtniskirche (p508), the
symbol of West Berlin, on the
city’s main shopping street,
Kurfürstendamm (p509).
Two Days in Dublin
•
Marvel at the beautiful
illuminated Book of Kells
•
Explore lively Temple Bar
•
Discover Dublin’s past
The Victorian Tower Bridge, spanning the River Thames in London
at Dublinia and the
Viking World
strip bustling with shoppers Afternoon Head to
and street performers. Visit the Chinatown (p58) for dim sum,
Day 1 National Gallery of Ireland then spend an hour or two
Morning Devote an hour to (p119) to see the small but admiring works by Van Eyck,
the magnificent National significant collection of Irish Van Gogh, and Constable at
Museum of Ireland – and international art. In the the National Gallery (p57). If
Archaeology (p119). Afterward, evening, enjoy the “craic” in one there’s time before the show,
visit Trinity College (p118) to of the south side’s lively pubs. head to Covent Garden’s Piazza
see the breathtaking Book of and Central Market (p59) to
Kells exhibition, and take a watch the street performers.
break in the college’s lovely Two Days in London
grounds. From here, it’s a short Day 2
walk to Temple Bar (p120), a •
Enjoy a spin on the Coca- Morning Begin the day at Sir
good place to stop off for lunch. Cola London Eye Christopher Wren’s glorious
•
Admire Wren’s masterpiece, masterpiece, St. Paul’s
Afternoon Venture a little way St. Paul’s Cathedral Cathedral (p66). Highlights
out of the center to visit the here include the Whispering
•
Take a Beefeater tour of
Guinness Storehouse (p123) Gallery, the spectacular dome,
the Tower of London
and find out all there is to and the crypt. Next, walk to the
know about the nation’s famous Tower of London (pp68–9),
brew. If the weather allows, Day 1 allowing two hours to join an
spend some time in Phoenix Morning Start off by examining entertaining Beefeater tour,
Park (p123), Europe’s largest the monuments to England’s and inspect the murderous-
enclosed city park, which kings and queens on a self- looking Tudor weaponry in
encompasses a zoo. In the guided tour of Westminster the White Tower. Afterward,
evening, see a play at the Abbey (pp54–5). Don’t miss cross the iconic Tower Bridge
wonderful Gate Theatre (p123). the intricate Lady Chapel and (p67) to Bankside and admire
peaceful cloisters. Next, wander the design and height of The
Day 2 through Parliament Square into Shard (p67), which dwarfs the
Morning Begin your day with idyllic St. James’s Park (p56), surrounding buildings.
a visit to the architecturally with its pelicans and black
eclectic Christ Church swans, reaching Buckingham Afternoon Select something
Cathedral (p121). Just across Palace (p56) in time for some delicious for lunch from one
the road is Dublinia and the pomp and circumstance at of the artisan food stalls or
Viking World (p121), where the the 11:30am Changing the cafés at Borough Market (p99),
history of Viking Dublin is on Guard ceremony. If it’s fall or then stroll to Shakespeare’s
display. Take the excellent tour winter, try Horse Guards Globe (p67) for an enthralling
of Dublin Castle (pp120–21) Parade (p53) instead. Walk auditorium tour. Next door is
and visit its Chester Beatty through stately Trafalgar Tate Modern (pp66–7), housing
Library to see a range of Square (p58) into the West End, paintings and art installations
beautiful historic manuscripts. and buy theatre tickets for the on a grand scale. End the day
evening at bargain prices from with a ride on the Coca-Cola
Afternoon Stroll down Grafton the official cut-price booth on London Eye (p53), timing it to
Street (p119), a pedestrianized Leicester Square (p58). coincide with sunset.
Afternoon Suitably fortified,

discover the head-spinning
array of architecture, artworks,
and treasures on display in
the Residenz (pp520–21).
This former palace of the
Bavarian kings is so large it
takes two tours just to see the
half that is open to the public.
Check if any seats are available
for a night at its magical
Cuvilliés-Theater.
Day 2
The Gran Vía, Madrid’s principal shopping street Morning The Bavarian kings
reveal their impeccable taste
Afternoon Head to the Centro again through their splendid
Two Days in Madrid de Arte Reina Sofía (p281) in art collection, hung in the
time for lunch at the chic café- Alte Pinakothek (p523). You
•
Surround yourself with restaurant, then spend the can easily lose the morning
masterpieces at the Prado rest of the day at this superb among its Old Masters, which
•
Enjoy the glamor and glitz contemporary art museum. provides a comprehensive
of the Gran Via Admire Picasso’s powerful lesson in German art history.
Guernica and works by Gaudí, If your tastes veer more
•
Feast on the mouth-
Miró, and Dalí, among others. towards modern art, visit the
watering morsels served
In the evening, take a tour of neighboring Neue Pinakothek
in countless tapas bars
the city’s lively tapas bars. (p523) and the Pinakothek
der Moderne (p524). Make time
Day 1 to walk to nearby Königsplatz,
Morning Start the day at
Two Days in Munich where the Neoclassical
Plaza Mayor (p274), the huge Glyptothek (p523) reveals why
arcaded square in Madrid’s •
Admire the regal splendor Munich was nicknamed
historic heart, then take a and priceless treasures of “Athens on the Isar”. The
relaxed stroll around the the Residenz nearby Staatliche Antiken
surrounding cobbled streets. •
Enjoy a foaming tankard sammlungen (p523) displays
Head into the pretty of beer and some hearty Ludwig I’s antiquities.
19th-century Mercado de Bavarian cuisine
San Miguel, just off the square, Afternoon The Deutsches
•
Leave the city center for
for a gourmet lunch at one of Museum (p524) is unbeatable
the pastoral delights of
its many chic tapas bars. for rainy days, with 20,000
Schloss Nymphenburg
arts and science exhibits
Afternoon Visit the magnificent spread over seven floors.
Museo Nacional del Prado Day 1 Alternatively, head to Schloss
(pp278–80), Spain’s biggest Morning There’s no finer
museum. Highlights here introduction to Munich than the
include the superlative Las Marienplatz (p522), with its two
Meninas by Velázquez, and a monuments of civic pride: the
host of the artist’s other works, Neues Rathaus, its facade a
created for the Spanish Habs- carnival of statues, and the
burg monarchs. The charming Altes Rathaus. The soaring
gardens at the sumptuous Ritz Frauenkirche (p522),
(p277) next door are ideal for a unmissable because of its
post-museum cocktail. domed spires, is the image on
almost every souvenir beer
Day 2 tankard; the other highlight of
Morning Stroll along the Munich’s sacred architecture
Gran Vía (p275), Madrid’s is the Asamkirche (pp522–3),
glittering answer to New an enchanting example of
York’s Broadway, admiring Bavarian Rococo. Stop for a
the turn-of-the-20th-century sauerbraten and a stein at any
theaters, as well as some of of Munich’s famous beer halls;
the city’s first skyscrapers. The for example, Hofbräuhaus, the
street is now a shopping mecca, site of Hitler’s infamous Beer The iconic onion domes of the Frauenkirche
packed with flagship stores. Hall Putsch. in Munich
to arty Montmartre (p166), Gothic wonder that is St. Vitus’s

where the Sacré-Coeur is Cathedral (p675), then visit the
splendidly illuminated at night. Old Royal Palace (p676).
Day 2 Afternoon After a picnic

Morning Wander the ancient lunch and a wander through
scholarly haunt of the Latin the stately Royal Garden
Quarter (pp156–7), where bohe- (p677), make your way down
mian Rue Mouffetard has a picturesque Nerudova Street
weekend market. There are also (p678) to cross Charles Bridge
many great food stores from (p679), lined with statues of
which to buy picnic supplies. Be saints. Head to Old Town
sure to catch a glimpse of the Square (p682) to watch the
bombastic Panthéon (p157) Town Hall Clock on the Old
and the city’s celebrated Town Hall (pp682–3) chime
university, the Sorbonne (p157). the hour. The pretty Kinský
Prague Castle seen from a boat cruising on Pause for a picnic by the Seine. Palace (p682), in the shadow
the Vltava River of the spire-topped Church of
Afternoon Make your way Our Lady Before Týn (p682),
Nymphenburg (p525), as along the river to enjoy the features ancient art. Take your
Electress Henriette-Adelaide did. dazzling Impressionist works in choice from the square’s many
Surprisingly, perhaps, her the Musée d’Orsay (p162), then restaurants for dinner.
portrait is not one of those stroll past Louis XIV’s imposing
in the Gallery of Beauties, Hôtel des Invalides (pp162–3) Day 2
one of the highlights of this to the legendary Eiffel Tower Morning Begin by exploring
Italianate garden palace. (p163). At sunset, the views the Jewish Quarter (p681). Visit
from the top are marvelous. the Old Jewish Cemetery (p681),
with its tilting tombstones; the
Two Days in Paris Pinkas Synagogue memorial
Two Days in Prague to Holocaust victims; and the
•
Explore Ile St-Louis and 13th-century Old-New
visit majestic Notre-Dame •
Take a tour of Prague Synagogue (pp680–81).
•
Admire Old Masters and Castle, a Gothic gem
antiquities in the Louvre •
Watch the Town Hall Afternoon Cross the Vltava
Clock strike the hour in River to Malá Strana (p678),
•
Ascend the Eiffel Tower
Old Town Square which is lined with characterful
at sunset for fabulous
stores as well as cafés and beer
views across the city •
Visit the poignant sights
gardens that are perfect for a
of the Jewish Quarter
late lunch. On Little Quarter
Day 1 Square, the Church of St.
Morning Explore tranquil Ile Day 1 Nicholas (p678) is the height
St-Louis (p152) before crossing Morning Start the day at the of High Baroque and worthy
Pont St-Louis to take in the magnificent Prague Castle of a peek inside. Afterwards, go
buttresses and gargoyles of (pp674–5). Take a tour of the for a leisurely stroll amid bronze
glorious Notre-Dame (pp154–5).
Head west across Ile de la Cité
(p152) to the Gothic jewel of
Sainte-Chapelle (p152). Alter-
natively, walk over to the Right
Bank and spend your morning
at the world-famous Musée du
Louvre (pp158–60), home to da
Vinci’s Mona Lisa and countless
other treasures.
Afternoon Stroll through the

charming Jardin des Tuileries
(p161) to the architectural set
piece of Place de la Concorde
(p161). Follow Avenue des
Champs-Elysées (p165) to the
Arc de Triomphe (p165), which
promises fabulous views from
the top, before heading north The majestic iron structure of the Eiffel Tower, rising above the Champ de Mars, Paris
16  INTRODUCING EUROPE
statues and peacocks in the

grounds at Wallenstein Palace
(pp678–9).
Two Days in Rome
•
Marvel at the treasures in
the Vatican Museums
•
See the sites of the ancient
city, including the
spectacular Colosseum
•
Watch the world go by
from the Spanish Steps
The gardens of the Vatican Museums, Rome
Day 1
Morning Devote a full day to Day 2 the Changing of the Guard
the Vatican and St. Peter’s. The Morning Wander through the at the Royal Palace (p606),
fast route through the Vatican evocative ruins of the Roman before heading indoors to
Museums (pp378–80) takes in Forum (p384) and onward to visit some of its 608 grand
the Sistine Chapel (p380). Don’t the monumental Colosseum rooms. Within the palace
miss Michelangelo’s Creation of (p385). Next, visit the Palatine there are also two museums.
Adam on the ceiling and his (p385), the leafy hill on which Next, head west to tiny
dynamic altarpiece, The Last Rome’s emperors once lived. Riddarholmen, home to
Judgment. The Raphael Rooms Riddarholmskyrkan (p606),
(p380) show another Renaissance Afternoon For city views, the final resting place of the
master at his peak. head up to the Capitoline Swedish sovereigns. Have
Museums (p383). The Palazzo lunch by the water here – it’s
Afternoon Do not miss Nuovo has a selection of Greek less busy and more pleasant
Michelangelo’s Pietà inside and Roman statues. For some than Gamla Stan.
the awe-inspiring St. Peter’s respite, visit the pretty 17th-
(pp376–7). Climb the dome for century gardens of the Museo e Afternoon Visit Stadshuset
views, then descend to the Galleria Borghese (p387). Climb (pp606–7), scene of the annual
papal tombs. Afterward, cross the Spanish Steps (p386), Nobel Prize festivities, built in
the Tiber to the centro storico. taking time for some people- National Romantic style. Take
Admire the Pantheon (p382), watching at a café on Piazza di a break by enjoying the many
the only ancient Roman temple Spagna, and cast a coin into the delights of Kungsträdgården
to survive intact, then spend the Baroque Trevi Fountain (p386). (p607), the former royal kitchen
evening among the Baroque gardens, before heading to the
fountains and cafés of Piazza magnificent Nationalmuseum
Navona (p382).
Two Days in (p607). Afterwards, enjoy the
Stockholm nightlife at Stureplan (p607).
•
Explore Gamla Stan’s Day 2
historic buildings and Morning Take a ferry to
medieval cobbled streets the peninsula of Djurgården
•
Enjoy a restful afternoon and spend a couple of hours at
walk in the Kungsträd Vasamuseet (p608). Housing
gården, the former royal the world’s only preserved
kitchen gardens 17th-century warship, this
is one of the city’s must-see
•
Hop on a ferry to enjoy
museums. Weather permitting,
the varied pleasures of the
take a picnic lunch and
Djurgården peninsula
eat alfresco in one of the
peninsula’s parks.
Day 1
Morning Spend the morning Afternoon Visit Skansen
wandering around the city’s (p608), the world’s first
historic hub, the Gamla Stan open-air museum, home to
district. Here, you can admire 150 historic buildings from
the Gothic and Baroque across Sweden. Here you can
The splendid Gothic interior of the interior of the Storkyrkan watch craftsmen and women
Storkyrkan, Stockholm (p605), then, at noon, catch demonstrate traditional
skills. Round off the day with Guggenheim Collection

family favorite Gröna Lund (p422), in the 18th-century
(p608), Sweden’s oldest Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.
amusement park.
Day 2
Morning Head for the Grand
Two Days in Venice Canal to watch the bustling
canal traffic from the Rialto
•
View Venice from the Bridge, and stock up for a
water – on a vaporetto or, picnic at the city’s busiest
better still, in a gondola market beside it. Also nearby
•
Be dazzled by the riches is the church of Santa Maria
of St. Mark’s Cathedral Gloriosa dei Frari (pp420–21)
and the Doge’s Palace with its exquisite altarpiece, a
Madonna and Child by Bellini.
•
Watch Grand Canal boats
go by from the famed
Afternoon Venture out into
Rialto Bridge
the lagoon, to the island of
Murano (p423) for its glass
Day 1 museum and to watch the A fountain in front of the Kunsthistorisches
Morning To start your glassblowers at work. While Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) in Vienna
exploration of Venice, travel by some of their work can be
vaporetto or gondola along the very costly, small items such of Old Vienna. Take a stroll along
Grand Canal (p421) to Piazza as bottle stoppers make Kärntnerstrasse, the city’s main
San Marco and St. Mark’s attractive souvenirs and gifts. shopping street, to the
Cathedral (pp416–17). The Back in Venice, be sure to Staatsoper opera house (p561),
mosaics inside and out are sample some local snacks for a tour and perhaps to buy
ravishing, but so too are the Pala and drink an aperitivo. tickets to the evening show.
d’Oro (golden altarpiece), the Enjoy a slice of Sachertorte at
jewels of the Treasury, and the Café Sacher, just behind.
four Horses of St. Mark on the
Two Days in Vienna
balcony. Take the lift to the top Afternoon Pick up the Ring
of the adjacent Campanile to be •
Take a stroll around the Tram for a bargain 30-minute
rewarded with a view stretching streets of Old Vienna ride around Ringstrasse (p556),
all the way to the Alps. •
Watch the elegant Vienna’s grandest boulevard.
horses of the Spanish Afterward, make your way to
Afternoon Join a pre-booked Riding School the Belvedere (p564) for some
tour to get the most out of the fine Austrian art and a stroll in
•
Enjoy the panorama from
Doge’s Palace (pp418–19). The its attractive gardens.
Vienna’s famous Ferris
highlight here is the vast Sala
wheel in the Prater
del Maggior Consiglio, with a Day 2
magnificent Tintoretto painting Morning Head to the Hofburg
that takes up an entire wall. Day 1 (pp558–60), the imperial palace
Then cross the Grand Canal to Morning Start at Vienna’s of the Habsburgs, where the
the Accademia (p423) for the cathedral, the Stephansdom main draws are the sumptuous
best of the Venetian painters. (p561), then wander the State Apartments and Treasuries.
For modern art, visit the Peggy pedestrianized medieval streets But first, see whether there are
any tickets available for a
morning training session at the
Spanish Riding School (p560),
held most weekdays at 10am.
Afternoon Walk a city block

from the Hofburg to the
MuseumsQuartier Wien (p562),
a superb cultural complex next
to the Kunsthistorisches
Museum (p562). Choose
carefully between the various
museums here; it’s easy to try to
see too much. Afterward, get
some fresh air in Prater park
(p564), and take a spin on the
The Grand Canal, with the cupola of the church of La Salute, Venice famous giant Ferris wheel.
Putting Europe on the Map

The continent of Europe stretches as far east as
Russia’s Ural Mountains, a total surface area of
10.4 million sq km (4 million sq miles). However, the
20 countries covered in this guide occupy a much
smaller area, being concentrated in the northwestern
and central parts of the continent and along the
Mediterranean coast in the south. These countries
are shown on this map in dark green. They include
18 of the nations that make up the European Union,
the political association of European states, based Faroe
Islands
in Brussels (see p222). The map also shows the
principal international airports and the major NO
road links. Europe’s rail network is shown on Shetland Bergen
Islands
the map on the inside back cover.
Orkney
Islands
Stavanger
A t la n t ic Inverness Kristiansand
Oc e a n Aberdeen
Glasgow Edinburgh
North
Belfast Newcastle S ea
Galway
Dublin
G R E AT
IRE L AND
BRITAI N
Cork Birmingham
Amsterdam
Harwich
Cardiff
London NETHERLANDS
Southampton Dover Düsseldorf
Brussels
Calais
Le Havre BELGIUM
LUX.
St-Malo Luxembourg
Paris Metz
Rennes
Stuttgart
0 km 250 Nantes Dijon
Tours
Zürich
0 miles 250 Bern
Bay of
Bisc ay Niort
FRANCE
SWITZ.
Lyon Geneva
Bordeaux Milan
A Coruña
Santander Turin
Oporto Genoa
Bilbao Toulouse
Marseille Nice
SPAIN Zaragoza Corsica

PORTUGAL Madrid Barcelona Ajaccio
Lisbon
Valencia
Palma Menorca Sardinia
Key
Mallorca
Highway Seville Ibiza Cagliari
Faro Alicante
Granada
Major road
Gibraltar
Me d i te rra n e a n S e a
Ferry route Málaga
International boundary Tangier
Algiers
Melilla
MOROCCO ALGERIA
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING EUROPE ON THE MAP  19
Tromsø Distance chart

Athens Distance by road in kilometers
Narvik Distance by road in miles
2564 Berlin
1593
3023 782 Brussels
1878 486
3227 1057 327 London
2005 657 203
3883 2342 1568 1732 Madrid
2413 1455 974 1076
2967 1076 302 415 1267
1844 669 188 258 787 Paris
1902 1520 1501 1802 2093 1460 Rome

Trondheim Vaasa
FINLAND 1182 945 933 1120 1301 907
3650 1035 1594 1820 3222 1861 2622 Stockholm
2268 643 991 1131 2002 1156 1629
Sundsvall
2188 589 1335 1838 2932 1623 1834 1601 Warsaw
R WAY 1360 366 830 1142 1822 1009 1140 995
Turku
Helsinki St Petersburg
Oslo SWEDEN Tallinn Yaroslavl
Örebro Nizhny
Novgorod
Stockholm ESTONIA
Moscow
Gothenburg
Hirtshals Gotland
LATVIA
Riga Samara
Aalborg
RUSSIAN
B a ltic
Copenhagen Sea
F E D E R AT I O N
LITHUANIA
Malmö RUS.
DENMARK Kaliningrad FED Minsk
Lübeck Gdansk BELARUS Voronezh
Hamburg
Bremen
POLAND
Berlin
Hanover Poznan Warsaw
Kharkiv
Volgograd
GERMANY Wroclaw
Kiev
Frankfurt Prague
Krakow
L'viv UKRAINE
CZECH Rostov-na-Don
REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA
Vienna Kishinev Krasnodar
Munich Linz
Budapest MOLDOVA
AUSTRIA
Innsbruck HUNGARY ROMANIA
SLOVENIA
Venice Zagreb
Trieste C R OAT IA Constanta
Bucharest Bla ck Se a
Bologna BOSNIA- Belgrade
HERZEGOVINA
Florence SERBIA
Ancona
Sarajevo BULGARIA
Livorno
Sofia
I TA LY MONTE- KOSOVO
NEGRO Skopje Istanbul
MACEDONIA
Rome Tirane
Bari Bursa
Thessaloniki Ankara
Naples ALBANIA
Brindisi
Lárisa TURKEY
Corfu
Konya
Izmir Adana
Palermo Kefalloniá Athens
Zákynthos Antalya
Sicily Catania GREECE SYRIA
Rhodes
Tunis
CYPRUS
Malta Crete LEBANON
TUNISIA
Mediterranean Sea
ISRAEL
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Millions of visitors travel to Europe for of Europe is more accessible. This section
reasons many Europeans take for granted – gives information on practical matters,
the rich diversity of history, architecture, such as passport formalities and how to
art, and landscape. In Western Europe, get around. Many countries are members
tourist facilities are generally of a high of the European Union, with certain laws
standard, while in the former Communist in common, but there are also notable
countries of Eastern Europe their scope differences. In each country chapter a
and quality have improved significantly Practical Information section gives
over the past decade. As a result, the whole specific details for visitors.
When to Go two hours ahead (+2). In Europe Information sections in each

The best time to visit Europe the clocks go forward by one chapter for full details.
depends on your itinerary, but hour in March (Daylight Saving),
most people prefer the summer and go back usually in October.
months, between May and Student Cards
September. Due to the diverse As well as various bus and rail
geography of Europe, the Passports and Visas tickets that offer discounts on
weather has wide variations. Most western European European travel (see p26), students
Summers in northwestern countries belong to the Euro with a recognized student card
Europe can be cool and rainy, pean Union. Based in Brussels, may be eligible for a wider range
while in the east they can be this European authority has the of discounts. The best card is the
unbearably hot. The Mediterr power to pass certain laws International Student Identity
anean, with its hot, dry summers affecting all member states. Card (ISIC), which gives dis
and mild winters, has the There are currently 28 member counts on all kinds of goods and
balmiest climate, but crowds are states, with five more on the transport, as well as reduced
a major drawback, particularly in road to EU membership. admission to many museums,
July and August, making May There are no passport controls galleries, and other sights. Most
and June better times to visit. between the following EU students can obtain this card
August is the busiest month members: Germany, France, from their educational establish
because this is when most Spain, Portugal, Luxembourg, ment at home, but it can also be
French, Italian, and Spanish Belgium, the Netherlands, Italy, obtained abroad from an ISIC
citizens take their vacations. and Austria. In theory, it is issuing office or from branches
The climate of parts of sufficient to carry an identity of STA Travel (see p25). For US
Scandinavia is extreme: in winter card when traveling between students, this card also includes
in the north the sun rises only these countries, but it is worth some medical cover.
for a few hours and the roads carrying your passport just in
can be blocked by snow, while case. The other EU countries have
summertime attracts many yet to sign up to this agreement, Customs and Duty-Free
visitors, drawn by the prospect and so passports are needed by Dutyfree goods are not
of enjoying the “midnight sun”. everyone entering or leaving. available for purchase when
The mountainous areas of If you are arriving in Europe traveling between EU countries;
Europe have unique climates. from a nonEU country, a pass these goods can only be bought
The Pyrenees, Alps, and port is required. However, on entry to, or exit from, the
Apennines all have short visitors from the United States, European Union as a whole.
summers and long winters with Canada, Japan, Australia, New The allowances are as follows:
heavy snowfall. Consequently, Zealand, Norway, and Switzer tobacco (200 cigarettes, 50 cigars,
these regions offer wonderful land, amongst others, no longer or 250g of loose tobacco); alcohol
opportunities for skiing. require visas for visits under (1 liter of strong spirits, 2 liters of
three months to countries in the alcohol under 22 percent proof,
EU. Check this with the embassy and 4 liters of wine); coffee
European Time Zones of the country you plan to visit. If (500g), and perfume (60ml).
The 20 countries covered in this you have a visa for one of the When entering a country, you
guide fall across three time zones. Schengen countries, you are will be asked to declare certain
Great Britain, Ireland, and Portugal permitted to visit all of the items from abroad and pay duty
are on GMT (Greenwich Mean countries in the agreement. on any amount that exceeds
Time), while the other European Some countries require a visa that country’s allowance; the
countries are one hour ahead regardless of length of stay; refer nature of these goods will vary
(+1), except for Greece, which is to the individual Practical from country to country. This
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  21
process applies on returning to insured before you leave home. seafood shacks, regional rest-
your home country with goods Keep valuables well concealed, aurants, and Michelin-starred
acquired in Europe. especially in crowds. fine dining. For the best of each
country, look out for entries
Insurance and Medical designated as DK Choices. Each
Value Added Tax Treatment of these has one or more
In the EU, all goods and services Travel insurance is essential to exceptional features, such as a
(except certain items, such as cover any loss or damage to your stunning location, a compelling
food and children’s clothes) are possessions and for unexpected history, or a special ambience.
subject to a Value Added Tax, medical treatment. Many credit
known as VAT in the UK, which is cards offer some insurance if you Conversion Chart
included in most prices. If you purchase your flights or vacation
are not a European Union citizen, package with them, so check this Officially, the metric system is
you may get a refund of this tax. before buying a separate policy. If used throughout Europe, but in
Britain imperial measures are
The easiest way to do this is to possible, buy one which pays for
also used. British pints and
shop where you see the “Euro medical treatment on the spot,
gallons are 20 percent larger
Free Tax” sign, although the rather than a policy which re- than US measures.
stores that offer this service may imburses you later. Most general
be expensive or sell only luxury policies do not cover potentially Imperial to Metric
goods. After showing your dangerous activities, such as 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters
passport to the shop assistant climbing, skiing, or scuba diving – 1 foot = 30 centimeters
and completing a form, the VAT these cost extra. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers
will be deducted from your bill. 1 ounce = 28 grams
In certain countries you need 1 pound = 454 grams
to keep your receipts and VAT Recommended Hotels 1 US pint = 0.47 liter
forms and present them at the and Restaurants 1 UK pint = 0.55 liter
Tax Refund desk with your The hotel and restaurant options 1 US gallon = 3.8 liters
unopened purchases when you in this guide have been selected 1 UK gallon = 4.6 liters
leave the country. These forms across a wide range of prices and
are processed and a refund will locations. Hotels have been Metric to Imperial
1 millimeter = 0.04 inch
be sent to your home address. chosen for their excellent
1 centimeter = 0.4 inch
facilities and good value, and vary
1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
from five-star luxury retreats to 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
Travel Safety Advice boutique hotels, humble B&Bs, 1 gram = 0.035 ounce
Visitors can get up-to-date safety and historic lodgings. The 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
information from the Foreign selected restaurants adhere to a 1 liter = 2.1 US pints
and Commonwealth Office in criterion of great food and atmo- 1 liter = 1.76 UK pints
the UK, the State Department in sphere. These include no-frills
the US and the Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade in The Climate of Europe
Australia.
As a continent that ranges south from the Arctic Circle to just north
Personal Security of the tropics, Europe experiences a diversity of climates, yet because
it is influenced by the warm Gulf Stream, its climate is, overall, much
Europe is one of the safest places
more temperate than other areas at the same latitudes. The Practical
to travel, but you should always
Information section for each country contains a panel, like the one
take safety measures. If you are below, giving details of average temperatures, rainfall, and sunshine
traveling alone, it is best to avoid for each season of the year.
deserted and poorly lit buildings
and back streets. If you should
be a victim of crime, report it ROME
immediately to the police. Pick- Average daily maximum temperature
pockets are common through-
°C/ºF
out Europe, but certain crimes 29/84
are worse in certain countries – 22/72
specific information is given in 18/64 19/68 Average daily minimum temperature
13/55 12/54
the Practical Information section 9/48
4/40
of each country chapter.
The safest way of carrying 6 10 7 5
Average daily hours of sunshine
money is in the form of traveler’s hrs hrs hrs hrs
checks (see p22), which allow 51 21 95 87
you to keep your cash to a mm mm mm mm
minimum. Never leave your month Apr Jul Oct Jan Average monthly rainfall
belongings unattended, and
make sure they are adequately
Communications and Money (smart phone, tablet, or laptop)

should not have any trouble
In the 21st century, communications are developing quickly accessing email accounts or
and evolving constantly. Cell phones and other mobile connecting to the web. Check
devices, social-media platforms, and the availability of Wi-Fi in advance if there is a charge
hotspots mean that communicating is now easier than ever, for using Wi-Fi. Although not
as popular as they once were,
as well as being relatively cheap. Many hotels and restaurants Internet cafés can still be found
readily accept most credit cards, so cash is normally only in many towns and resorts.
needed for smaller transactions or in remote spots. Having In Internet cafés, you normally
a common currency (the euro) in some countries has also pay a fee for a fixed amount of
made life much easier for travelers touring Europe. time, which varies according
to local use and rates.
VoIP (Voice over Internet
Telephones networks, email, or Skype. Protocol) is a way of
These days, when most people Alternatively, buy a SIM card communicating telephonically
have a cell or mobile phone, the in the country you are visiting via your computer. In order to
need for a public telephone is and use it in your own phone. use it, you will need a Skype
less urgent. Most US cell phones Most European countries are account (free to set up), a set of
work in Europe and vice versa – in the process of phasing out headphones and a microphone
but using them can be public telephones. (these are often, but not always,
expensive. US companies will provided by the café). Calls are
also rent cell phones for use free between Skype users, but
while in Europe. If your network Mail Services there is a charge to land lines
provider is either T-Mobile or Mail services are generally fast and cell phones.
AT&T, you will have a GSM and efficient, with letters and
phone that is compatible in cards typically taking five days
Europe. In order to use it, simply to reach North America, or a Changing Money
ensure that it is unlocked, dual week to get to Australasia. The Now that 19 countries take
band (so that it uses European mail service does vary across the euro, there is no need to
frequencies), and that it has the continent, however, and in change money so frequently.
been set up for roaming. If your some areas, such as Eastern Check within each area chapter
home operator does not offer Europe and in remote parts of of this guide to see which
coverage in another country, Greece, the service may be countries participate.
your phone will usually roam much slower. Currency exchanges (bureaux
into a host operator’s network de change) can be found in
automatically. Be aware that most towns – particularly
roaming can be costly. A Internet Access within banks or post offices.
cheaper solution to stay in Wi-Fi hotspots are widely Banks usually tend to offer
touch with family and friends available in every major city the best rates. Most airports,
back home is to turn off across Europe. Often hotels central train stations, large
roaming and instead use and restaurants offer wireless hotels, and border posts also
Wi-Fi, which is usually free, Internet access, too, so visitors have currency exchanges.
to communicate via social with their own mobile device Many visitors use traveler’s
checks when abroad because,
unlike cash, they can be
International Dialing Codes replaced by the bank if they are
The list below gives the international dialing codes for the countries lost or stolen. However, if you
covered in this guide. When calling from the US and Canada prefix all have a plastic card with a pin
numbers by “011;” from Australia by “0011;’’ from New Zealand by “00.’’ number for your bank account
When calling from within Europe, use the “00’’ prefix. If you are unsure, or credit card, and as long as
call international directory inquiries. you belong to a global network
such as Plus/Visa, or Cirrus/
• Austria 43 • Luxembourg 352 Mastercard, ATM machines can
• Belgium 32 • Netherlands 31 provide instant access to your
• Czech Republic 420 • Norway 47 funds. Be aware that credit
• Denmark 45 • Poland 48 cards charge interest if you take
• Finland 358 • Portugal 351 out cash. You can find ATM
• France 33 • Spain 34 machines in banks, shopping
• Germany 49 • Switzerland 41 malls, and stations. When
• Greece 30 • Sweden 46
paying by card, note that many
• Hungary 36 • United Kingdom 44
(Great Britain and
European countries use “chip
• Ireland (Republic) 353
• Italy 39 Northern Ireland) and pin” so swipe debit/credit
cards may be refused.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  23
The Euro Eurozone countries. The coins, out of joining this common
Entering circulation in 2002, the however, have one side identical currency, such as the UK. For
Euro (€) is the common currency (the value side), and one side currency information for
of the European Union (EU). with an image unique to each nations that are not part of the
Countries that use the Euro as country. Both notes and coins Eurozone nor EU members refer
sole official currency are known are exchangeable in each of the to the Practical Information
as the Eurozone. Euro notes participating Euro countries. sections found at near the end
are identical throughout the Several EU members have opted of each country’s chapter.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
color) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow), and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and
€2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents,
and 1 cent. The €1 and €2 coins are both silver and
gold in color. The 50-, 20-, and 10-cent coins are
gold. The 5-, 2-, and 1-cent coins are bronze.
Europe by Air cheaper. With these there is

a minimum stay requirement
With its network of international flights, Europe is one of the of 7 days, but they can still be
most accessible parts of the world to reach by air. Compared good value. It is cheaper still
with North America and Australasia, European flights are a to buy air tickets through a
relatively cheap, quick and convenient way to get to and travel agent. Be aware, however,
that the cheaper the ticket, the
around Europe. In an industry previously dominated by more inflexible it usually is. You
state-run carriers and major private airlines, the recent rise may not be able to alter,
of budget airlines offering “no-frills” flights has opened up transfer, or cancel your flight,
many new destinations and made air travel more affordable. or if you do there may be
stiff penalties, so check the
conditions beforehand.
Flying to Europe (the Netherlands), Lufthansa It is always cheaper to book a
If you are traveling from a major (Germany), Alitalia (Italy), and return (round-trip) ticket with
international airport, you will SAS (Scandinavia). fixed dates rather than an “open”
usually be able to find a direct return. You can also get an
flight to many European cities. “open jaw” return, which allows
Main destinations include Flight Times you to enter via one city and
London, Paris, Amsterdam, As a rough guide, flights from exit via another (not necessarily
Rome, Milan, and Frankfurt. New York to London take about in the same country). This is
Most of the major North 6 hours 30 minutes, to Paris and useful if you are doing a grand
American airlines, such as Delta, Frankfurt 7 hours 30 minutes, tour, but “open jaw” tickets are
Air Canada, American, and and to Rome 8 hours 30 often more expensive than
United Airlines, have frequent minutes. Flights from Sydney to regular returns. Companies
flights to all parts of Europe, as London take around 23 hours such as Trailfinders in the UK,
do Qantas and Emirates from via Bangkok, to Paris 23 hours and STA Travel offer their own
Australia. For more details on via Singapore, to Frankfurt 22 versions of these.
flights to specific destinations, hours via Singapore, and to Depending on how far you
see the Travel Information Rome 25 hours via Bangkok. have to travel, round-the-world
sections for individual countries. Flights from Auckland to (RTW) tickets can also work out
Although most major airports London take about 24 hours, cheaper than the standard long-
are based on the outskirts of and to Frankfurt 23 hours. haul returns. These enable you
European capitals and other to fly around the world on
big cities, all can be reached specified routes, as long as you
by efficient train, bus, taxi, and Keeping Costs Down don’t backtrack on yourself.
sometimes subway services. As a rule, European air fares are Look out for good deals from
Many of the smaller airlines use cheaper between November established travel agents and
less convenient airports, with a and March (with the exception package operators that are
longer transfer time, but this is of Christmas and Easter weeks), advertised in newspapers and
reflected in their cheaper fares. while the high season is from travel magazines. Airlines will
June to mid-September. A quote you the regular price
“shoulder season” of moderate for a ticket, but they can often
European National prices exists between these reduce this if they have unsold
Airlines months. Try, if you can, to seats. Consolidators, or “bucket
Most European countries have travel mid-week, because shops”, buy unsold tickets in
a national carrier which serves tickets are cheaper and bulk (often for off-season travel)
international destinations, and airports are less busy. and sell them at cheaper rates.
these usually offer frequent Whatever season you travel, Standby tickets are also
flights per day to their home there are ways of saving money economical, but you have to
countries at convenient times. on air fares. A good way to start be flexible about your date
Scheduled flights on national is to contact a travel agent that and time of departure; be
airlines usually provide more specializes in budget travel, aware that you sometimes
legroom (essential on long such as STA Travel. If you are have to wait (possibly for
flights) and a better quality of young (under 25), a student, or days) for a cancellation.
in-flight service than charter a senior citizen, you will usually
airlines, with complimentary find special reduced-fare air
items such as headphones tickets. Otherwise, you save Charter Flights
and drinks. Fares can be more money when you book in It is always worth investigating
expensive, but it is worth advance. If you can book 14 to charter-flight fares. There are
shopping around for the best 21 days ahead, APEX (Advanced quite a few companies that
deals. The largest national Purchase Excursion) or Super book whole planes or blocks of
carriers include British Airways, APEX tickets are available direct seats in advance, then resell the
Air France, Iberia (Spain), KLM from the airlines and are much tickets at more competitive
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  25
rates. The main drawback with Fly-Drive can be the least expensive way
these tickets is that they are Many airlines, as well as to go. Indeed, if you want to get
usually non-refundable. They numerous travel companies, to destinations such as Portugal
also tend to land at remote offer fly-drive packages, which or Greece quickly, flying is almost
airports and at wildly unsocial combine air fares and car rental. the only option. However,
hours. The level of in-flight These deals are often worth between major cities, such as
service and comfort is usually considering, as they give you Berlin and Paris, you could go by
lower, too. flexibility and offer a saving train, which is almost as quick
over arranging the two and cheap, and saves the trouble
parts separately. of getting to an airport (see p26).
Package Deals It is best to avoid flying
One of the easiest ways to between major cities on
arrange your visit to Europe is Internet Booking Friday evenings and early
to book a package vacation. The Internet is also a popular Monday mornings because
These are offered by all the way of booking tickets. Two these flights can be crowded
major airlines, as well as various of the best sites for this are with European commuters.
reputable independent Expedia and Opodo. Expedia As with transatlantic flights,
companies, such as Central has a system called a “Fare you can get cheaper tickets by
Holidays and American Tracker” whereby you fill in a booking early. The best cities
Express. They normally form online and they email for finding good deals from
include flights, transfers, you information when tickets “bucket shops” are London,
and accommodations, and become available. The US Athens, and Amsterdam.
sometimes side trips and food, company Europebyair also
and the cost can be far less provides excellent deals on
than if you were to buy these flights to Europe. It offers a Low-Cost Airlines
separately. While an excellent Flight Pass for non-European Recent years have seen the
way of reducing the strain of citizens, valid for 62 European emergence of so-called “no frills”
organizing your vacation, the cities and one-way flights airlines in Europe, such as
downside with a package between these destinations, Ryanair, easyJet, Air Berlin, and
tour is that it usually involves for a very reasonable price. Eurowings, which offer very
traveling in large numbers on competitive prices. A return
specific flights to a hotel which, flight from London to Berlin, for
because the price has been Flights Within Europe example, can cost as little as £50
pared to the bone, may not There is an extensive flight ($70). To keep prices down, there
offer a high standard of food network serving most major is usually less legroom, on-board
or facilities. On the other hand, cities, making it quick and easy catering, and checked luggage
there are specialist package- to fly within Europe. If you are costs extra. Outlying airports
tour operators that do offer traveling some distance, and may also be used. Unless you
top-quality hotels and use especially between Great Britain must have these benefits, the
scheduled flights. and other parts of Europe, flying price justifies the inconvenience.
DIRECTORY
European KLM Trailfinders Internet Booking
National Airlines Tel 1-866 434 0320 (US). 194 Kensington High St,
Europebyair
Tel 01300 392 192 (Aus). London W8, UK.
Air France ∑ europebyair.com
∑ klm.com
Tel 020-7938 3939
Tel 800-237 2747 (US). Expedia
Lufthansa (for long-haul travel).
Tel 1-300 39 01 90 (Aus). ∑ expedia.com
Tel 800-645 3880 (US). Tel 020-7937 1234
∑ airfrance.com Tel 1-300 655 727 (Aus). Opodo
(for European travel).
∑ lufthansa.com ∑ opodo.com
Alitalia ∑ trailfinders.com
SAS
Tel 212-903 3568 (US).
Tel 800-221 2350 (US).
Low-Cost Airlines
∑ alitalia.com Package Deals
Tel 300 727 707 (Aus). Air Berlin
British Airways ∑ flysas.com American Express ∑ airberlin.com
Tel 800-247-9297 (US). Tel 1800-297 2977 (US). easyJet
Travel Agents
Tel 1-300 767 177 (Aus). ∑ americanexpress. ∑ easyjet.com
∑ britishairways.com STA Travel com/travel Eurowings
2871 Broadway,
Iberia Central Holidays ∑ germanwings.com
New York, NY 10025, US.
Tel 800-772 4642 (US). Tel 212-865 2700. Tel 800-539 7098. Ryanair
∑ iberia.com ∑ statravel.com ∑ centralholidays.com ∑ ryanair.com
Europe by Train between four and 11. Children

under four travel for free. What
Trains are generally a popular, reliable, and comfortable you pay depends on the number
means of travel, and also give visitors the chance to of zones you want to travel in
enjoy the passing countryside. Avoiding air travel doesn’t and the length of your stay.
need to limit destination options – with the Channel Tunnel,
it is possible to travel all the way from Scotland to mainland Eurostar/Eurotunnel
Greece by rail alone, and the number of passes and discounts Connecting London’s St. Pancras
on offer ensure that costs need not be high. International Station to Lille and
the Gare du Nord in Paris, the
Eurostar foot-passenger train
Types of Train passes do not include the service provides the fastest link
All kinds of train serve the supplements payable on many between the two capitals. It also
railroad network in Europe, from of the faster trains: the EC operates to Brussels’ Gare du
the slow local lines of remote (EuroCity), IC (InterCity), and Midi. These journeys take less
regions to fast diesel-powered EN (EuroNight) trains. You must than two and a half hours. A
intercity expresses. For the latter, pay these before boarding – if year-round direct service calls at
such as the French TGV (Train you don’t and are caught by a Lyon, Avignon, and Marseille,
à Grande Vitesse), the Spanish conductor you will then have to while another connects with
AVE (Alta Velocidad Española), pay the supplement plus a fine. Geneva via Lille.
and the German ICE (InterCity The Eurailpass offers unlimited The Eurotunnel company
Express), you usually need to travel in 28 European countries, operates a service between
reserve a seat in advance, and including Austria, Belgium, Folkestone in Great Britain and
they are more expensive. Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Calais in France that has drive-in
There is no such thing as a Denmark, Finland, France, compartments for vehicles. For
pan-European railroad system; Germany, Greece, Hungary, a day trip, it costs a set price per
however, the French operate TGV Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, car with passengers. Daytime
trains to Zürich, Bern, Turin, and Norway, Portugal, Romania, journeys are more expensive.
Milan, where they link up with Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and
Italy’s Pendolino trains; Brussels is Switzerland. It is available as a DIRECTORY
connected to Paris, Amsterdam, consecutive-day pass if you want
Cologne, and Geneva by the to make frequent short hops by Rail Passes
high-speed Thalys network, train, or as a flexipass if you are on
Eurail
while Germany’s ICE system a trip with extended stop-overs. ∑ eurail.com
also runs to Bern, Switzerland. It is also valid for some ferries. Official US website.
Overnight trains are popular, Other variations on the ∑ railpass.com
offering couchettes, or bunks Eurailpass include the Saver Tel 877-RAILPASS (US).
(usually four or six per Flexipass, which gives at least Booking and information.
compartment), or the more a 15 percent reduction per
desirable sleepers (usually two person when two or more Voyages-SNCF
or three beds per compartment). people are traveling together. Travel Centre, 193 Piccadilly,
The price of a sleeper tends The Youth Flexipass is an option London W1J 9EU.
to be higher (three times the for those under 26 years of age. Tel 0844-848 5848
couchette price), but it is worth For further information on (US: 1-800-622 8600).
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,
it if comfort is important. national train services and
10am–5pm Sat.
passes in individual countries
∑ voyages-sncf.com
see the Travel Information
Rail Passes for section for each country.
For Eurailpasses.
Non-Europeans ∑ interrail.eu
For Inter-Rail passes.
The cheapest way of seeing
Europe by train is to buy one Passes for Europeans
Eurostar/Eurotunnel
of the many passes available. For Europeans, the best pass is
For non-Europeans, the most the Inter-Rail, which is available Eurostar
popular of these is the Eurailpass from Voyages-SNCF or from Tel 08432-186 186 (UK).
from Eurail, or if you are under main train operators in individual Tel 01233-617 575 (outside UK).
26, the Eurail Youthpass. It is countries. The pass divides 30 ∑ eurostar.com
best to buy these tickets in the countries in Europe into eight For foot passengers.
US or Australia before traveling zones and is for anyone who Eurotunnel
because they can be 10 percent has been resident in a European Tel 08443-353 535 (UK).
cheaper than if you wait and buy country for at least six months. Tel 0810-63 03 04 (France).
them in Europe. You can also buy There are discounts for people ∑ eurotunnel.com
these on the Internet through under 26, the over-60s, and for For cars & buses.
Eurail and Voyages-SNCF. These families with children aged
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  27
Europe by Road and Ferry example, Eurolines, offers

passes that allow you to visit
While many prefer the ease of traveling by train when they want more than 50 European cities
to get somewhere fast, traveling by car gives you the chance over a 15- or 30-day period.
to stop at will and explore many areas of Europe on the way.
Car ferries and the Channel Tunnel have extended Europe’s Traveling by Ferry
boundaries into the Scottish Hebrides and down to the Aegean. Once in Europe, you may need
to go by boat to get to the
more outlying areas. Many
Driving Permits are by far the cheapest, while of the islands of Greece and
Many non-European licenses France, Italy, the Netherlands, Scotland, for example, are only
can be used in Europe, but an and Great Britain are the most accessible by sea. Or, if you start
international driving permit is expensive, with Spain and your trip to Europe by flying
worth having, if only to make life Switzerland somewhere in into Great Britain, it is possible
easier when renting or leasing a between. The difference in price to continue by ferry, catamaran,
vehicle (you have to be at least can be up to 30 percent. or hydrofoil to Ireland, France,
21 years of age when renting). Unleaded gas is used almost Belgium, the Netherlands, and
Be aware that it is mandatory to exclusively in Scandinavia and Spain. Companies operating
have an international permit in Western Europe, but it is rarely regular ferries from Great Britain
parts of Eastern Europe. The available in the east. are P&O and DFDS Seaways.
permit lasts for one year. It can also be easier and
cheaper to travel by sea than by
Car Rental air from Spain to the Balearic
Driving In Europe Car rental is a competitive Islands, from Italy to Sardinia
In Great Britain, Northern Ireland, business in Europe, so prices are and Sicily, and to Greece from
the Republic of Ireland, Cyprus, generally quite affordable. The Italy. For further details, see the
Malta, and Gibraltar people drive biggest car rental companies in Travel Information section of the
on the left-hand side of the road. Europe are Europcar, Avis, Hertz, individual countries.
The rest of Europe drives on the Sixt, and Budget, all of which
right. Remember that in most of offer an excellent level of DIRECTORY
Europe, distances are measured service. Local contact details are
in kilometers (1 km equals given in the Travel Information Car Rental
0.6 miles). The exceptions are section for each country. There
Auto Europe
Great Britain and Ireland, which are also US companies that
work in both metric and Imperial specialize in European car Tel 888-223 5555 (US).
measurements. Most highways rentals. These include firms such ∑ autoeurope.com
have a speed limit of around as Europcar, Kemwel, Europe Europcar
100–135 km/h (60–80 mph). The by Car, and Auto Europe. Tel 877-940 6900 (US).
fastest roads are in Germany, ∑ europcar.com
where the speed limit is 210 km/h
(130 mph) on the Autobahnen. Traveling by Bus Europe by Car
Roads are very congested during Domestic bus services provide Tel 800-223 1516 (US).
August, the vacation month, an alternative to the rail network ∑ europebycarblog.com
especially during the first and throughout Europe, and while
last weekends and on routes these are cheaper, they are also Kemwel
to the coast. generally much slower and offer Tel 877-820 0668 (US).
The cost of driving in Europe less in terms of comfort and ∑ kemwel.com
varies from country to country. amenities. The exceptions are
Italian autostrade, French Portugal, Greece, and parts of Traveling by Bus
autoroutes, Spanish autopistas, Spain, where buses have
Eurolines
and Portuguese autoestrada are superseded trains, and Hungary,
Tel 08717-818 178 (UK).
regularly punctuated by toll which has a bus system that is
∑ eurolines.co.uk
booths, while a one-time fee as good as the rail network. In
must be paid on entering most European countries, buses
Switzerland and Austria. are best used as extensions of Ferry Services
However, the vast majority of the railway, affording access to DFDS Seaways
roads are free in the villages and remoter regions. Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK).
Netherlands, Great Britain, and Advance bookings for these
∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
Germany, although tolls are are rarely needed.
charged on certain bridges. International buses are P&O
Fuel prices vary enormously also a second-best to express Tel 08716-642 121 (UK).
across Europe. Gibraltar, trains, but the tour options ∑ poferries.com
Andorra, and Luxembourg are worth considering. One
EUROPE AT
A GLANCE
The Landscapes of Europe 30–31

Great Museums
and Galleries 32–33
The History of Europe 34–39
30  E U R O P E AT A G L A N C E
The Landscapes of Europe

A wide range of climatic and geological conditions has
forged an impressive variety of landscapes in Europe.
Although the appearance of much of the land has
changed dramatically since mankind began to cultivate
it around 7,000 years ago, there are still many remote
and wild regions, such as the spectacular peaks of the
Alps and the Pyrenees. As well as being simply beautiful
in their own right, Europe’s diverse landscapes offer
endless opportunities for outdoor activities. Norway
Indenting the country’s west coast,
the wild and rugged Norwegian
fjords are a truly spectacular sight,
offering some of the most
breathtaking scenery in Scandinavia.
NOR
Great Britain
Dartmoor in southwest England is a wilderness of great N orth
natural beauty. The windswept open moorland at the Sea
area’s bleak and isolated heart has inspired many IRELAND
romantic tales. G R E AT
B R I TA I N
NETHERLANDS
France
BELGIUM &
The wine-producing LUXEMBOURG
regions of France, such
as Champagne, boast
lush, fertile vegetation,
with row upon row of
neatly planted vines.
SWITZERLAND
B ay o f
B iscay FRANCE
PORTUGAL
SPAIN
Me d i t e r r a n e a n
Portugal
The interior of southern Portugal is
largely characterized by parched plains
dotted with cork oaks and olive trees, 0 km 250
and vast dusty wheat fields stretching
uninterrupted to the horizon. 0 miles 250
St Peter’s Square in the Vatican City, with Rome in the background, Italy
THE LANDSCAPES OF EUROPE  31
Hungary
North of the Hungarian
capital, the Danube
flows through a verdant
landscape of vineyards,
orchards, and thickly
wooded hills. Known as
the Danube Bend, this is
one of the river’s most
beautiful stretches.
FINLAND
W AY
SWEDEN
Baltic
DEN MA R K Sea
POLAND
GERMANY
Switzerland
CZECH Switzerland’s landscape is dominated by the Alps,
REPUBLIC Europe’s highest mountain range. Dramatic,
snow-covered peaks, stunning vistas, and a range
of first-class winter sports facilities draw millions of
AUSTRIA HUNGARY visitors to this part of Europe every year.
ITALY
Sea GREECE
Greece
The Greek mainland and islands have some
of Europe’s finest coastal scenery. There are
thousands of beaches, ranging from small
rocky coves backed by pine-clad cliffs to
broad swathes of golden sand.
Great Museums and Galleries

The museums and galleries of Europe include national
collections, the former collections of Europe’s royal and
noble families, and a whole host of smaller local institutions.
The museums highlighted here are those with the largest and
richest collections, which ought to be included in the itinerary
of every visitor to Europe. Between them, they contain many
of the world’s best-known and best-loved artistic
treasures. These range from archaeological finds Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
from the early civilizations of the Middle East, The Rijksmuseum (see pp248–50) is
through pieces from Egyptian, Greek, and Roman known for its Rembrandts and other
great Dutch paintings of the 17th
times, to masterpieces of the Renaissance and century. Frans Hals’ Wedding Portrait
other great periods of European art. is a joyful celebration of Dutch life.
British Museum, London

A vast collection of
antiquities and other
artifacts from all over the
world is housed inside
Britain’s national museum
(see pp60–61). There is a
fascinating display of
mummies and other exhibits
from Ancient Egypt.
Louvre, Paris
The celebrated home of
the Mona Lisa and the
Venus de Milo, the Louvre
also houses Jean
Watteau’s melancholy
study Gilles or Pierrot
(c.1717), one of many
French works on display
(see pp158–60).
Prado, Madrid
The former royal collection in Madrid
(see pp278–80) contains the finest
assembly of Spanish paintings in the
world. Of many highly individual works,
Goya’s Saturn Devouring His Son is one
of the most powerful.
G R E AT M U S E U M S A N D G A L L E R I E S  33
Pergamon Museum, Berlin

This fabulous collection of antiquities includes the
famous blue-tiled Ishtar Gate from Babylon, dating
from the 6th century BC (see p504).
The Hermitage,
St. Petersburg
The Hermitage (see
p658) houses an
impressive collection
of Impressionist
paintings, such as
Woman Combing
her Hair (c.1885)
by Edgar Degas.
Kunsthistorisches
Museum, Vienna
Based on the imperial collections
of the Habsburgs, the museum
(see p562) houses archaeology,
paintings, and sculpture, such as
this woodcarving of the
Madonna (c.1495) by Tilman
Riemenschneider.
Uffizi, Florence
The Uffizi (see pp404–6) was built originally as
the “offices” of the Medici rulers of Florence.
Transformed into a gallery in 1581, the building
now displays such masterpieces as The Annunciation
by Leonardo da Vinci.
0 km 250
0 miles 250
Vatican Museums, Rome

Classical and Early Christian statues excavated in Rome
over the centuries include this charming Good Shepherd
(4th century AD). The vast papal museum (see pp378–80)
also holds great paintings by Michelangelo and Raphael,
commissioned during the Renaissance.
The History of Europe 451–429 BC The great general

Perikles presides
as uncrowned king of
In this timeline of European history, important political and Athens. He establishes
social events appear on the upper half of the page, while the democracy in the city
lower half charts contemporary developments in art and and commissions great
buildings, such as the
architecture. In the art and architecture section, the emphasis Parthenon (see pp454–6).
is on structures and works of art that both illustrate major However, he also
involves Athens in
historical trends and can still be seen today. They are described Peloponnesian Wars
in more detail in the main sightseeing section of the book. (431–404), in which
Sparta and its allies
defeat Athens
From Prehistory to the Early
Middle Ages c.1500 BC Mycenaean culture
From prehistoric times, Europe saw dominates mainland Greece.
a succession of civilizations that This gold death mask from
Mycenae, known as the “Mask
flourished then collapsed. Much of of Agamemnon,” is on display
our knowledge of the period comes at the National Museum of
only from archaeological remains, Archaeology in Athens (see p452)
although the Mycenaeans did leave
written inscriptions. Later periods 750–600 BC Greek
are chronicled in Greek and Roman colonists spread to
histories. However, many of these Sicily, southern Italy,
Marseille, and Spain 509 BC
were written long after the events Romans
they describe and tend to be a blend expel
of legend and fact. c.800 BC Rise of Etruscan
Etruscans in Italy kings
2000–1100 BC and
c.2300 BC Start of Series of Minoan found
c.1000 BC Iron-
Bronze Age civilizations in republic
working reaches
in Europe Crete
central Europe from
the Near East
Prehistory Classical Greece

2500 BC 2000 BC 1500 BC 1000 BC 500 BC
Minoan and Mycenanean Greek and Etruscan
447 BC Work
c.1200 BC begins on the
Collapse of Parthenon, the
Mycenaean great temple
culture dedicated to
Athena on the
6th century BC Etruscan Acropolis in
sarcophagi topped with lifelike Athens (see
terra-cotta sculptures of the pp454–6)
deceased (see p387)
c.1450 BC Mycenaeans (see p467) 4th century BC

take over palace of Knossos. Magnificent Greek
Palaces in mainland Greece start theater built
to exhibit pillared, frescoed halls; at Epidaurus
ideas borrowed from the Minoans (see p467)
c.1700 BC First Minoan palace at Knossos on Crete 6th century BC Greek vases of the
destroyed. A new palace was immediately built to replace red-figure type start to appear. The
it. This colorful scene is one of many fine Minoan frescoes figures are left in the color of the clay,
in the Irákleio Archaeological Museum in Crete (see p476) silhouetted against a black glaze. They
often show scenes of myth and legend,
such as the Trojan War
Art and Architecture

Artistic styles in prehistoric Minoan and Mycenaean cultures were
strongly influenced by Egyptian and Middle Eastern models. However,
during the Hellenistic period the trend was reversed. Following Alexander
the Great’s conquests, Greek styles of sculpture, temple architecture, and
ceramics were exported to Egypt and as far east as Afghanistan. The
Romans were great admirers of the Greeks and the growth of the Roman
Empire helped spread the Greek aesthetic throughout western Europe.
THE HISTORY OF EUROPE  35
27 BC Augustus becomes c.AD 481–511 Franks under

first Roman emperor. This Clovis conquer much of
sculpture in the Vatican present-day France
Museums (see pp378–80)
shows him in a
traditional Greek AD 493–526 Kingdom of Italy
heroic pose ruled by Theodoric the Ostrogoth
from Ravenna
201 BC Rome
defeats
Carthaginians
and expands
rapidly to
dominate
Mediterranean
AD 476 Fall of
Western Roman
Empire 6th century AD Byzantine
338 BC Philip II
defeats Greeks, mosaics in church of
making Macedon Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in
great power Ravenna (see p425). Ravenna
AD 117 Roman Empire at remained an outpost of the
greatest extent on death Byzantine Empire until AD 752
of Emperor Trajan
323 BC Death of
Alexander the AD 395 Division of Roman
Great. His empire Empire into eastern and 6th century AD Byzantines
stretches from western halves reconquer much of Italy, but
Macedon to then lose most of their gains
northern India AD 313 Edict of Milan: to the Lombards
Christianity favored by
Roman emperor AD 711 Moorish
Constantine invasion of Spain
Roman Empire After the Fall of Rome

250 BC AD 1 AD 250 500 750
Hellenistic and Roman Byzantine
AD 118 Building of 8th–10th centuries AD

AD 30 Amphitheater magnificent domed Churches in distinctive pre-
built at Verona (see p412) temple, the Pantheon Romanesque style built in
in Rome (see p382) Asturias, part of northern
Spain never conquered by
AD 72 Work starts on 4th century AD Christian the Moors. Examples survive
the Colosseum in Rome motifs start to appear in in Oviedo (see p293)
(see p385) Roman art; building of St.
Peter’s and other Christian
basilicas in Rome 7th century AD Sutton Hoo ship
burial. Over much of Europe,
5th century AD relics from this era are rare. One
AD 81 Arch of Titus
Apse mosaics in exception is the treasure found
(see p384) erected
church of Santa buried with an Anglo-Saxon
in Rome to
Maria Maggiore, leader, who died c.625. The
commemorate
Rome (see p386) hoard can be seen at the British
crushing of Jewish
Museum (see pp60–61)
Revolt in AD 70.
It served as a
model for later
triumphal arches
c.330 BC Start of Hellenistic period. The Dying

Galatian was a famous Greek sculpture
dating from the 3rd century BC. It was
frequently copied in the Hellenistic
period. This Roman copy is in the
Capitoline Museums in
Rome (see p383) 5th century AD Visigoths take control of Iberian
Peninsula. The Roman aqueduct at Segovia (see
p284) survived both the Visigothic and the
subsequent Moorish invasion of Spain
From the Middle Ages to the 18th Century

During this period, many of the states of present-day Europe gradually
took shape, with powerful centralized kingdoms, notably Spain, Portugal,
France, and England, emerging from the medieval feudal system. The
Middle Ages were marked by wars between kings and nobles and even
between popes and emperors. The Catholic church owned extensive
lands and was a powerful political force. However, its influence over
much of northern Europe was lost in the Reformation of the 16th century,
with the emergence of Protestantism.
1096–9 First Crusade; knights

of northern Europe capture 12th and 13th centuries
Jerusalem Emperors and popes fight for
control of Germany and Italy.
Frederick I Barbarossa, Holy
1066 Norman Roman Emperor, quarreled
conquest of England frequently with the pope but
9th century Vikings terrorize Europe, set off on the Third Crusade,
gaining control of much of England, only to drown in 1190 before
Scotland, Ireland, and northern 896 Magyars reach eastern he reached the Holy Land
France. The Isle of Lewis chessmen Europe, laying foundation
(11th century) give a striking picture of present-day Hungary
12th and 13th centuries
of the members of a Viking court. Gradual reconquest
Carved of walrus ivory, they can 1054 East-West Schism: of Spain and Portugal
be seen in the British Museum Roman Church splits from the Moors
(see pp60–61) definitively with Eastern
Orthodox Church 12th century Venice
800 The
grows rich supplying
Frankish king, 955 Saxon king Otto the crusades and
Charlemagne, is defeats Magyars trading with the east
crowned Holy
Roman Emperor
Early Middle Ages Middle Ages

800 900 1000 1100 1200
Byzantine and Romanesque Gothic
c.800 Book of Kells, 1064 Work begins on Pisa’s

the greatest of the Duomo (see p393), a
Irish illuminated magnificent example c.1194 Chartres
copies of the Bible of Italian Romanesque Cathedral, France
created (see p127) (see pp180–81)
1071 Completion of rebuilt in new
St. Mark’s, Venice’s Gothic style.
great Byzantine Pointed arches
10th century basilica and ribbed
Beginnings of (see pp416–17) vaulting create
9th and Romanesque possibility of
10th architecture, soaring height in
centuries characterized by church design
Irish High rounded Roman
Crosses arches, delicate 11th century
(see p126) arcades, and tall Christianity reaches
bell towers Norway – building
of striking wooden
c.785 Start of building of the “stave” churches
Mezquita in Córdoba, capital (see p618)
of the Moorish Caliphate in
Spain (see pp316–17). The Late 11th century
mihrab (prayer niche) is framed by a beautiful horseshoe Building of Durham
arch. Spanish buildings retained Moorish features like this Cathedral (see p85),
even after the completion of the reconquest of Spain in 1492 England’s finest Norman
(Romanesque) church
Art and Architecture
The Middle Ages in Europe produced remarkable ecclesiastical
architecture: first in the Romanesque style, then the even more c.1267–1336 Life of Giotto, who
spectacular Gothic. The Renaissance turned its back on the Gothic introduces a new realism to Italian
painting. St. Francis appears to the
with the rediscovery of Classical principles, while Renaissance Monks at Arles is one of a series of
art was based on scientific understanding of perspective and frescoes he painted for the Basilica di
anatomy, and also on the idealism of Classical sculpture. San Francesco in Assisi (see pp388–9)
1618–48 Thirty Years’ War: religious

differences and territorial ambitions
embroil most of northern Europe
1386 Union of
crowns of Poland
and Lithuania,
1517 Martin Luther
which together
condemns church
form largest state
in his 95 Theses,
in Europe
sparking
Reformation.
Protestantism
sweeps across
much of northern 1715 Death of Louis XIV.
1347–51 Black Europe
Death kills The “Sun King” made
perhaps a France the most powerful
third of the 1683 Defeat
state in Europe and
1492 Spanish expel
population of Turks at presided over the great
Moors from Granada;
of Europe siege of age of French Classical
Columbus’s first voyage
Vienna allows culture. However, his
to America 1520s Charles V,
expansion of expansionist policies
Holy Roman were largely thwarted
Austrian
1458–90 Emperor, defeats by the British, Austrians,
Habsburg
Hungary at its François I of and Dutch
1337–1453 empire
height in reign France in war for
Hundred of Matthias control of Italy
Years’ War Corvinus
between
England and 1453 1740–86 Rise
France Collapse of of Prussia
Byzantine under Frederick
1609 Dutch gain
Empire II “the Great”
effective 1622 Battle
increases independence of Mohács;
Turkish from Spain Kingdom of
threat to Hungary
eastern falls to Turks
Europe
Late Middle Ages Reformation Age of Enlightenment

1300 1400 1500 1600 1700
Renaissance Baroque Rococo
1436 Completion of dome 1519 Château 1730s Light,

of Florence Cathedral de Chambord, decorative
(see pp398–9) François I’s Rococo style,
magnificent most popular in
1441 Death of great Flemish Renaissance France, southern
painter Van Eyck, who perfected château in the Germany, and
oil-painting technique Loire Valley Austria
(see p179)
1483–1520 Life of
Raphael, painter of the 1704 Start of building of
Raphael Rooms in the Blenheim Palace, grandest
Vatican (see p380) of the stately homes of
18th-century Britain
(see pp82–3)
1598–1680 Life of Gian
Lorenzo Bernini, leading
architect and sculptor
of the Roman Baroque
1606–69 Life of
Rembrandt, greatest
1452–1519 Life of Leonardo of the 17th-century
da Vinci, multi-talented Dutch masters
Renaissance genius. There are
two versions of his Virgin of
the Rocks: one in the Louvre, 1661 Enlargement of French
Paris (see pp158–60), and royal palace at Versailles
one in the British Museum, (see pp168–9) begins
London (see pp60–61)
1675–1710 Building of
1475–1564 Life of painter, sculptor, Christopher Wren’s St. Paul’s
and architect Michelangelo Cathedral in London (see p66)
From the French Revolution to the Present

The French Revolution established a supposedly democratic 1901 First award of Nobel prizes
republic, but the need for a central authority allowed the in Sweden and Norway
brilliant general Napoleon to take power and proclaim him-
self Emperor. The Old Regime died hard and after Napoleon’s
defeat, many of the old rulers of Europe were restored to their
thrones. In time, however, birthright and tradition had to give
way to technological progress, the growth of capitalism, the
rising power of the bourgeoisie, and the spread of workers’
movements. Greater democracy gave the vote to more and
more of the population, but wherever democracy broke
down, there was the danger it would be replaced by a
totalitarian regime, such as the Nazis in Germany and
the Communist regimes of the old Soviet Bloc. 1830–40 George Stephenson’s Rocket becomes the
prototype for steam locomotives. Following the
1805 Napoleon defeats success of the Liverpool–Manchester line, opened in
1804 Napoleon
Austrians at Austerlitz; by 1930, the spread of railroads speeds the Industrial
crowns himself 1807, he controls most of Revolution in Britain
Emperor of the western and central Europe
French
1838–1901 Reign of Queen Victoria:
1812 Defeats in apogee of British Empire
1789 French Peninsular War and
Revolution Russia weaken French 1848 Year of revolutions
leads to hold on Europe throughout Europe
execution by
guillotine of 1815 Napoleon 1852 Napoleon III becomes
Louis XVI and defeated at Waterloo; Emperor of France
Reign of Terror Congress of Vienna
1860 Unification of most of Italy
in 1793 more or less restores
status quo in Europe
1870 Franco-Prussian War;
German victory allows
1831 Creation Bismarck to achieve
of Kingdom unification of Germany
of Belgium
Age of Enlightenment Industrial Revolution Age of Imperialism

1775 1800 1825 1850 1875 1900
Neoclassical Empire Regency Realism Impressionism Art Nouve
1785 The Oath of the c.1814 Goya’s paintings 1874 Claude

Horatii by Jacques recording atrocities in the Monet uses the
Louis David, French Peninsular War, May 2, 1808 and word “Impression”
Neoclassical painter. May 3, 1808. They hang in the in title of a
This incident from Prado, Madrid (see pp278–80) painting, giving
early Roman history rise to the term
c.1800 Empire style in fashion and
extols the republican Impressionism
furnishings. Many aspects of design
spirit that would
in Europe influenced by Napoleon’s
inspire the French 1883 Gaudí begins
Egyptian expedition
Revolution work on la Sagrada
1841–1919 Life of Pierre Auguste Família cathedral in
Renoir, one of the greatest of the Barcelona (see
artists associated with the pp302–3)
Impressionist movement
1890 Suicide of Dutch painter
Van Gogh, unrecognized in his
1852–70 Second Empire
lifetime, now the most sought-
style; rebuilding of Paris by
after of Post-Impressionist
Haussmann (see p164)
painters (see p251)
1857–65 The Ringstrasse built

in Vienna, an example of grand
Art and Architecture 19th-century city planning
Revivalist styles dominated 19th-century
architecture, with imitations of Classical, 1890s Era of Art Nouveau.
Gothic, and Renaissance buildings. The posters of Czech-born
In contrast, painting evolved radically following Alfons Mucha typify the style,
the example of the French Impressionists. In the also known as Jugendstil or
Secession. Many artists break
20th century, new building materials – steel, away from the official
concrete, and glass – were the inspiration of academy of their country,
Modernism. Modern art, meanwhile, notably in Vienna and Berlin
experimented with every conceivable form of 1907 First exhibition of Cubist
expression, from Surrealism to Conceptual Art. works by Picasso and others
1989 Collapse of
Communism in
Eastern Europe.
Poland, Hungary,
Czechoslovakia, and
other countries oust
Communist rulers.
Reopening of Berlin Wall
1914 Outbreak of World War I. Millions leads to reunification
die as trench warfare along Western of Germany in 1990
Front reaches stalemate
1939 Outbreak of 1944 Normandy Landings. Allied
World War II. forces create second front, which
Germany overruns leads to eventual defeat of 1995 Membership of European
Poland, then, in Germany in 1945 Union reaches 15, with entry of
1940, France Sweden, Finland, and Austria
1949 Berlin Air Lift stops Russian
blockade of West Berlin
1918 Defeat of 2002 Introduction of common
Germany, following 1956 Hungarian uprising against
currency, the euro, in 12 countries
American entry into Communist rule crushed by of the European Union
war in 1917 Russian tanks
2004 Ten more countries join
1936–9 Spanish 1957 Treaty of Rome: European the European Union
Civil War Economic Community marks
beginning of European Union
1933 Hitler comes 2007 Bulgaria and Romania
to power in 1968 Student
join the European Union
Germany protests in France
and many other
parts of Europe
1919 Treaty of 2010 Five more
Versailles (1919) countries wait to
creates new states, 1973 join the EU
including Poland, Carnation
Revolution 2013 Croatia joins the
Czechoslovakia,
in Portugal European Union
Hungary, and
Finland
The European Union
1925 1950 1975 2000 2025
eau Art Deco and Modernism
2012 The Shard opens in

1970 Post-Modernist art London, becoming the tallest
challenges viewers to building in the European Union
question “what is art?”
1999 Sir Norman Foster’s striking
additions to the old Reichstag
building in Berlin (see p502)
1937 Guernica painted by Pablo

Picasso in reaction to bombing of
Basque civilians in the Spanish Civil 1997 Astonishing sculptural forms
War. The painting is currently on used by American architect Frank
show at the Centro de Arte Reina Gehry for new Guggenheim Museum
Sofía, Madrid (see p281) in Bilbao (see p294)
1992 Barcelona Olympics. The city’s

1920s and 1930s The term Art Deco
glorious 20th-century buildings by
is given to design and architecture
Gaudí and others are restored and the
using modern materials and clean,
old port is transformed (see pp296–305)
geometrical shapes
1977 Opening of the Centre Pompidou in Paris

1919 Foundation of Bauhaus in Weimar (see p153). The design by Renzo Piano, Richard
(see p515), which exerts worldwide Rogers, and Gianfranco Franchini places service
influence on architecture ducts and escalators on the outside of the building
BRITAIN AND
IRELAND
Britain and Ireland

at a Glance 42–43
Great Britain 44–109
Ireland 110–139
42  B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D
Britain and Ireland at a Glance

The islands of Great Britain and Ireland lie to the northwest
of continental Europe and have remained relatively isolated
throughout their history. Great Britain consists of three
countries – England, Scotland, and Wales – each with a
distinctive way of life and traditions. These three, together
with Northern Ireland, form the United Kingdom. In the south
of Ireland, the Republic of Ireland is a separate country.
London, one of Europe’s liveliest cities, offers the greatest
range of cultural attractions. The islands have a rich variety
of landscapes, from rolling green hills and windswept moors,
Inverness
to rocky coastlines and craggy mountains.
Fort William
Glasgow
The Highlands (see p95) is an area prized for its

beauty and diversity of wildlife. This region of Derry
mountains and glens is home to many animal
species that are rarely found living wild elsewhere
in the British Isles.
Belfast
IRELAND
(see pp110–39)
Galway
Dublin
Caernarfon
Limerick
Waterford
Dublin (see pp114–23), Killarney
Ireland’s capital, has a lively Cork
atmosphere. Many of its
finest public buildings, such Swansea
as the Custom House, date
from the 18th century.
Killarney (see p129) is a typical, friendly

Irish town in County Kerry. The Plymouth
surrounding area is renowned for
its spectacular scenery, with three
huge lakes, waterfalls, and some of
the country’s highest mountains.
Beautiful landscape of Loch Shiel in Glenfinnan, Scotland
AT A G L A N C E  43
Edinburgh (see
pp90–94) is the
administrative and
cultural capital of
Scotland. Its castle,
which dates back
to the 12th century,
gives spectacular
views of the
entire city.
Locator Map
York (see pp86–7) is a city of historical

treasures, with many relics from the
Aberdeen Roman and Viking ages. Its magnificent
minster has the largest collection of
medieval stained glass in Britain, and
the city walls are well preserved.
Edinburgh
Carlisle Newcastle-
upon-Tyne
York
Leeds
Manchester London (see pp50–71) was founded

by the Romans in the 1st century
Liverpool
AD. The oldest part of the capital is
the City, where Sir Christopher
GREAT BRITAIN Wren’s masterpiece, St. Paul’s
(see pp44–109) Cathedral, stands.
Norwich
Birmingham
Cambridge
Oxford
Cardiff
Bristol
London
Bath
Bath (see pp78–9) is
Southampton Brighton named after the Roman
baths that stand at the
Exeter heart of the old town,
next to the splendid
0 km 75 medieval abbey. The city
is full of elegant Georgian
0 miles 75
terraces, built in local
honey-colored limestone.
B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D  45
GREAT BRITAIN
Separated from the rest of Europe by the English Channel, Britain has been
assiduous in preserving its traditions. However, the island can offer the visitor
much more than stately castles and pretty villages. A diversity of landscape,
culture, literature, art, and architecture, as well as a unique heritage, results
in a nation balancing the needs of the present with those of the past.
Britain’s character has been shaped by The long, broad beaches of East
its geographical position as an island. Anglia contrast with the rocky inlets
Never successfully invaded again after along much of the west coast.
1066, the country has developed its Despite the spread of towns and
own distinctive traditions, and although cities over the last two centuries, rural
today a member of the European Union, Britain still flourishes. The countryside
Britain continues to delight in its is dotted with farms and charming
nonconformity. Britain’s heritage can villages with picturesque cottages and
be seen in its ancient castles, cathedrals, lovingly tended gardens. The most
and stately homes, with their gardens prosperous and densely populated
and parklands. It is also evident in the part of the nation is the southeast,
many age-old customs played out across close to London, where modern office
the nation throughout the year. buildings bear witness to the growth
For a small island, Great Britain of service and high-tech industries.
encompasses a surprising variety in its
regions, whose inhabitants maintain History
distinct identities. Scotland and Wales Britain began to assume a cohesive
are separate countries from England, character as early as the 7th century AD,
with their own legislative assemblies. as Anglo-Saxon tribes migrating from
They also have their own surviving the continent absorbed existing Celtic
Gaelic languages and unique traditions. and Roman influences and finally
The landscape is varied, too, from the achieved supremacy in England.
mountains of Wales, Scotland, and the However, they suffered repeated Viking
north, through the flat expanses of the incursions and were overcome by the
Midlands and eastern England, to the Normans at the Battle of Hastings in 1066,
soft, rolling hills of the south and west. when William the Conqueror founded the
Punting on the River Cherwell, Oxford

Fantastical gargoyles looking out from the Natural History Museum, London
royal lineage which still rules the country English sailors ranged far across the
today. The disparate cultures of the world. The total defeat of the Spanish
Normans and Anglo-Saxons combined Armada in 1588 confirmed Britain’s
to form the English nation, a process position as a major maritime power.
nurtured by Britain’s position as an island. The Stuart period saw the English and
Scotland’s four divided kingdoms had Scottish crowns unite, but internal
also unified under one monarch struggles eventually led to the
by this time, with the crowning Civil War in 1642. By the time of
of Duncan I in 1034. the Act of Union with Scotland
The next 400 years saw English in 1707, however, the whole
kings extend their domain at island was united and the
home as well as abroad. Wales foundations for representative
was conquered in 1282, and by government had been laid. The
1296 control was also gained over combination of internal security
Scotland. The Scots rose up and maritime strength allowed
Queen Elizabeth I (reigned
again, however, winning back 1558–1603)
Britain to seek wealth overseas.
their independence under By the end of the Napoleonic
Robert the Bruce in 1314. The Wars in 1815, Britain was the
Tudor monarchs consolidated England’s world’s leading trading nation. The
strength and laid the foundations for opportunities offered by industrialization
Britain’s future commercial success. Henry were seized, and by the reign of Queen
VIII recognized the importance of sea Victoria (1837–1901), a colossal empire
power and, under his daughter, Elizabeth I, had been established across the globe.
Challenged by Europe and the rise of
KEY DATES IN BRITISH HISTORY the US, and drained by its role in two
world wars, Britain’s influence waned
AD 43–410 Roman occupation of Britain
after 1945. By the 1970s, almost all
440–50 Start of Angle, Saxon, and Jute invasions
its former colonies had become
1034 Duncan I becomes first king of all Scotland
independent Commonwealth nations.
1066 William the Conqueror defeats King Harold and
becomes the first Norman king of England
1256 First Parliament to include ordinary citizens
Society and Politics
1533–4 Henry VIII forms Church of England British cities are melting-pots for people
1535 Act of Union with Wales not just from different parts of the country,
1558–1603 Reign of Elizabeth I but also from overseas. Irish immigration
1603 Union of English and Scottish crowns; James VI has long ensured a flow of labor into the
of Scotland becomes James I of England country, and since the 1950s, hundreds of
1642 Civil War breaks out thousands have come from countries in
1649 Charles I executed. Commonwealth declared Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean, many of
by Parliament
1707 Act of Union with Scotland
1721 Robert Walpole becomes Britain’s first
Prime Minister
1837–1901 Reign of Queen Victoria. Industrial
Revolution leads to growth of British Empire
1924 First Labour government
1948 National Health Service introduced
1973 Britain joins European Community
1999 Formation of Scottish Parliament and
Welsh Assembly
2005 Terrorist attacks on public transport in London
2014 Referendum for Scottish Independence held The colorful costumes of Notting Hill Carnival, an annual
multicultural celebration held in London
G R E AT B R I TA I N  47
The Eden Project, an entertaining educational center devoted to mankind’s relationship with plants, Cornwall
which were former colonies are now Culture and the Arts
members of the Commonwealth. Nearly Britain has a famous theatrical tradition
five percent of Britain’s 62 million inhabi stretching back to the 16th century and
tants are from nonwhite ethnic groups – William Shakespeare. His plays have been
and about half of these were born in performed on stage almost continuously
Britain. The result is a multicultural society since they were written, and the works of
that boasts a wide range of music, art, 17th and 18thcentury writers are also
food, and religions. frequently revived. Modern British
Britain’s class structure is based on a playwrights, such as Tom Stoppard,
subtle mixture of heredity and wealth. draw on this long tradition with their
Even though many of the great inherited vivid language and use of comedy
fortunes no longer exist, some old landed to illustrate serious themes.
families still live on their estates, and many In the visual arts, Britain has a strong
now open them to the public. The mon tradition in portraiture, landscape, and
archy’s position highlights the dilemma watercolor. In modern times, artists David
of a people seeking to preserve its most Hockney and Francis Bacon and sculptors
potent symbol of national Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth have
unity in an age when enjoyed worldwide recognition.
people are suspicious Britain has also become
of inherited privilege. famous for its innovative
Without real political fashion designers, such as
power, although still head Vivienne Westwood and the
of the Church of England, late Alexander McQueen.
the Queen and her family The national film industry
are subject to increasing regularly produces
public scrutiny. international hits, such as
Democracy has deep the Harry Potter saga and
foundations in Britain. With The King’s Speech. British
the exception of the 17th A cricketing pub sign showing the television is renowned for
century Civil War, power 18th-century version of the game the high quality of its news,
has passed gradually from current affairs, and nature
the Crown to the people’s elected repre programs, as well as for its drama.
sentatives. During the 20th and 21st The British are great sports fans. Soccer,
centuries, the Labour (left wing) and rugby, cricket, and lawn tennis are popular.
Conservative (right wing) parties have An instantly recognizable English image is
favored a mix of public and private owner that of the cricket match on a village green.
ship for industry and ample funding for the The British also make use of their national
state health and welfare systems. parks as enthusiastic walkers and hikers.
Orkney Isles
Exploring Great Britain Port of Ness

Durness Thurso
Britain’s main attraction is its capital, London, Isle of Lewis

Wick
but there are many other noteworthy towns e s Stornoway

d
ri A9
to explore throughout the country. Highlights eb
H
include the university cities of Cambridge Ullapool
r
te
Tarbert
and Oxford, the historic centers of York and A8
Ou
35
Lochmaddy
Bath, and Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. Uig 0
North
A89
A96
In the sparsely populated regions of Northern Uist Inverness A9 ey
Sp
England, Wales, and Scotland, the land itself South Isle of
2
A8
A8
Uist 7 Aviemore
becomes the center of attention – the Lake Skye
Cairngorms
District, Snowdonia, and the Isle of Skye are Barra es
A93
id
all areas of outstanding natural beauty. A8
6 A9
br
Fort William
He
S C O T L A N D
r
ne
In
A85
Dundee
Mull
Sights at a Glance Perth
1 London pp50–71 u Cambridge A91
M90
Stirling
2 Canterbury i Chester
A82
M
9
3 Brighton o Liverpool Jura
A83
M8
4 Windsor Castle pp74–5 p Manchester Glasgow Edinburgh
Islay
77
5 Winchester a York pp86–7
7
A7
M7
Arran
6 Salisbury s Lake District
4
A7
7 Stonehenge d Durham 6
A7
8 Devon and Cornwall f Edinburgh pp90–94
7
A7
9 Bath pp78–9 g Glasgow Dumfries
5
0 Bristol h Stirling A7 Carlisle
Stranraer
q Cardiff j St. Andrews Belfast, A59
5
Larne
w Snowdonia k Aberdeen
e Caernarfon l Cairngorms Lake District
r Oxford z Inverness
Isle of Man
t Blenheim Palace pp82–3 x Isle of Skye Douglas
y Stratford-upon-Avon Heysham
IRISH Blackpool
Belfast,
Dublin SEA
Liverpool
Anglesey
Dublin Holyhead
A55
Caernarfon
Snowdonia A5
83
A4
Cardigan
Bay
Aberystwyth
Brighton’s Palace Pier, viewed from the promenade Rosslare Fishguard A48
7 WALES
0
A4
A47
M4
0
Pembroke
Swansea Cardiff
Key
l
anne
Highway l Ch
sto
Bri
M5
Major road Taunton

A36
1
Railroad A35
0
Channel Tunnel A3 Exeter
Devon and Cornwall 38
A
Newquay Plymouth
Administrative border
9
Truro
A3
Penzance
Isles of Scilly
Santander Roscoff

Distance chart
London Distance by road in kilometers
179
Birmingham
111
241 164
Cardiff
150 102
Orkney Isles,
Shetland Isles 599 466 600
290 373
Edinburgh
372
A98
626 470 602 72
389 292 374 45
Glasgow
A9
851 721 853 254 269

6
529 448 530 158 167 Inverness

Aberdeen 296 130 278 343 344 597
Manchester
184 81 173 213 214 371
4
A9 341 332 261 784 785 1038 451 Plymouth
212 206 152 152 426 545 250
333 208 381 301 344 550 106 532 York
207 129 237 187 214 342 66 331
St. Andrews
ed
Tw e
A1
Amsterdam
A6
96
Tynemouth
A69 Newcastle-
Sunderland NORTH
upon-Tyne Durham
Tyn
SEA
e
Middlesbrough
A1(M
A66
M6
Kendal
A19
Swale
Scarborough
A6 A64
5
Leeds &
A1
Bradford
York
M6
Bradford 62
The haunting landscape of the Isle of Skye
Leeds M Kingston upon Hull
Preston M62
Huddersfield
Grimsby
Manchester
A16
Sheffield
A6 Groningen
Lincoln
M1
Chester
A1
Rotterdam,
Stoke-on-Trent Zeebrugge
Derby Nottingham
A49
M54
E MN G L A N D A47
Norwich
6 Leicester Peterborough Esbjerg N ETH ERLA N D S
Birmingham
A11
Seve
A1
Amsterdam
rn
2
A49
Warwick Northampton A14

A1
A4
Stratford- Cambridge The Hague A12 Utrecht

M5
upon-Avon
M
Ipswich
1
Blenheim
M11
Harwich Arnhem
Luton
M4
Palace Stansted Hoek van Rotterdam

0
Gloucester M2 Holland
Oxford 5 Eindhoven
Chelmsford
Swindon M4 Thames
Bristol Windsor LONDON
Castle M2 Ramsgate Zeebrugge
M3 Heathrow
A1
Bath Stonehenge M25 Canterbury Ostend

N9 Antwerp
4
Salisbury Dover A1
5
Gatwick
Winchester Dunkerque
Folkestone
A303 Southampton
A10 Brussels
A27
Portsmouth
Calais B E LGIUM
Newhaven Liège
Bournemouth Brighton Boulogne
Isle of Wight Lille
A2
Weymouth
A2
5
6
l
C hanne FRANCE
h
Englis N1 0 kilometers 75
Amiens 0 miles 75
Caen, Dieppe
St. Malo, Le Havre
Channel Is. Rouen Paris
Cherbourg
1 London
The largest city in Europe, London is home to more than seven
million people. Founded by the Romans in the first century AD
as an administrative center and trading port, the capital is the
principal residence of British monarchs, as well as the center of
government and business, and is rich in historic buildings. In
addition to its many museums and galleries, London is an
exciting city, with a vast array of entertainments. In 2012,
London hosted the Olympic Games. Developments completed
for the event, such as the Aquatics Centre, designed by the
late Zaha Hadid, have added to the city’s attractions. Millennium Foot Bridge, leading to Tate
Modern on Bankside
Euston
REGENT'S Square
RD
Great N
PARK ST O
GO
Portland
Baker EU
TO
W
Street
ER
Street
TT
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BONE
EN
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CL
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MA
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Street
R
ER
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STR
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ROA
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EET
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MO
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W IG
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WA
SQUARE
Oxford
RD
R D
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Circus
OXFO
OU
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Summer relaxation along the banks of the Bond

GE
R S
H
LE ARC
W
MARB Street SOHO
TR
Marble
NT
BO
Thames at Richmond
ST
Lancaster
EE
Arch EET
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STR
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Gate S
UI
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ST
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AF
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PA
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PICCADILLY
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Queensway B AY S W
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ST
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KENSINGTON
ST
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ST
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PA R K L
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S E R P E NTINE
TON
Kensington
PI
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Palace D Green L
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Ser pen tine
T
Hyde Park
PA
Park M
Corner
LAC
GARDENS HYDE GREEN ST

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ROTTEN ROW PARK

PARK E
GDN
DG E CORNER T H JAMES'S
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Knightsbridge
E XH I B I T I
GARDENS St James's
INGHA
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R
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BR
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Sights at a Glance 0 British Museum pp60–61 p Shakespeare’s Globe
1 Westminster Abbey pp54–5 q Madame Tussauds a The Shard
2 Houses of Parliament w Regent’s Park s Tower of London pp68–9
3 Coca-Cola London Eye e Hyde Park d Tower Bridge
4 Buckingham Palace r Science Museum
Greater London (see inset map)
5 Tate Britain t Natural History Museum
6 National Gallery y Victoria and Albert Museum f Greenwich
7 Trafalgar Square u St. Paul’s Cathedral g Notting Hill and Portobello Road
8 Piccadilly i Museum of London h Richmond and Kew
9 Covent Garden o Tate Modern j Hampton Court
LONDON  51
Cambridge
Greater London A1
Getting Around Watford
Walthamstow
London’s subway system – Highgate
A11
the “tube” or “underground” – Hampstead
Islington Hackney
runs from about 5:30am
06
A4
Camden
A5
until just after midnight A40
Willesden City
Airport
(some lines now operate a 24 Oxford A13
hour service on Fridays and Thames
Saturdays). Overground rail Heathrow Southwark

Airport
services are useful for trips Hammersmith
Chelsea A2
Windsor
farther afield. London’s buses M4 Camberwell
Chiswick
are now much quicker, since Kew Fulham
the introduction of the A3
16 Clapham
Congestion Charge (£11.50 Wandsworth A205
Richmond
a day) to enter central
A2
21
London with a car. The Wimbledon
2
Th Streatham
am
well-known black cabs are
es
a safe and convenient way 0 kilometers 5
A23
Kingston-upon-
A3
Thames
W
to travel from door to door. Mitcham

O
0 miles 3
BU
RN
Gatwick
Guildford Brighton Airport
PL
AC
E
Key
SO
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RU
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.
SQ Area of main map
EL
A
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ALDERSGATE
BL
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SB
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HOLBORN
W
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HOLB
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WG
St Paul's
MOO
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HO
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Q U E EN VIC T ORIA CAN

IA
FE N C H U
BU NON
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Temple Mansion
S
ST
House Cannon G REAT T O Fenchurch
ANKME
NT Tower Hill
STREET
R Street
WE
EMB Blackfriars
Leicester
A ND Street ST T O W E R HI L
L
Square R Waterloo
Blackfriars Thames Monument
EA
ST
ST Bridge
Bridge
London
SM
ITHF
IE L D
Charing Southwark
Cross Bridge Bridge
D
K BR. R
G H ST
National
Theatre RE E T
ST
HI
SOUTHWAR
SO
Hayward O R D U TH London
H
WA
UG
Gallery A M F
WH
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IA
RO
Hungerford ST S T REE T ST
BO
Royal
V IC TOR
Foot Bridge T H The Shard T O

ITEHALL
Festival OM OLE
AS Y
Hall
AD
ST
RO
ST
RE
RK
ET
YO
Westminster
Westminster
R OAD
ET
Bridge
RE
MILLBA
ST
E
C
Th am es
LA
PA
ST
GR EAT PE T E R
NK
E TH
MINSTER
L A MB
HORSEFERRY ROAD
Lambeth
Bridge
0 meters 750
K
AN
0 yards 750
LB
RO
IL
AD M
Vauxhall
Bridge
Key
Sight / Place of interest
Pedestrian street
Viewing Big Ben and Westminster Abbey from

the capsules of the London Eye

Street by Street: Whitehall

and Westminster
Westminster has been at the center of political and
religious power in England since the 11th century,
when King Canute built a palace here and Edward the Downing Street
Confessor founded Westminster Abbey. Whitehall is No. 10 has been the
synonymous with the ministries concentrated around prime minister’s official
residence since 1732,
it. On weekdays, the streets are crowded with civil when Sir Robert
servants going about their business, replaced at Walpole was given the
weekends by a steady house by George II.
flow of tourists.
DO
WN
The Cabinet War Rooms, IN
G
now open to the public,
were Winston Churchill’s
World War II headquarters.
KI
N
G
CH
A
St. Margaret’s Church RL
ES
is a favorite venue for ST
political and society RE
weddings. ET
GR
E
EA
AT
T
GE
G
EN
OR
. Westminster Abbey
S
GE
M
Y
The abbey (see pp54–5) is ST
IA
RE
RE
London’s oldest and most ET

RL
O
important church. The north PA

ST
facade is a Victorian addition.

BR
ID
GE
Central Hall was built in 1911 as a
Methodist meeting hall. In 1946, it
RE
hosted the first General Assembly BROAD SANCTUARY

UA
of the United Nations. A

P
RL
SQ
IA
MENT
ET
RE
ST
T
RE
GA
AR
. M
ST
G
R
STR ET
E
A
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T
C
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L
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ON
E
G
GD
E
Statue of Richard the S
T
IN
Dean’s Yard R
Lionheart (1860) E E
AB
This secluded grassy square is T

surrounded by picturesque
buildings from different periods, The Burghers of Calais is a
many used by Westminster School. cast of Auguste Rodin’s 1886
original sculpture in France.
LONDON  53
The entrance to Horse Guards 1 Westminster

Parade is guarded by two
mounted cavalry troopers. Abbey
See pp54–5.
Trafalgar
2 Houses of
Square
Parliament
SW1. Tel 020-7219 3000.
1 Westminster. @ 3, 11, 12, 24,
53, 88, 148, 159, 211, 453. 8 tickets
for guided tours (Sat only) are avail-
able online, by calling 020 219 4114,
or from the ticket office at the front of
L
Portcullis House on Victoria Embank-

L
A
ment. & ∑ parliament.uk

H
ST
E
RE Since the 16th century, this site

ET The Cenotaph
I T
(1920) is a war has been the seat of the two

Banqueting House Houses of Parliament: the House
H
memorial by Sir Inigo Jones designed this of Commons, made up of

W
RI Edwin Lutyens.
CH elegant Palladian building in elected Members of Parliament
M 1622. It is famous for this ceiling
ON (MPs), and the upper house,
D painted by Rubens for Charles I.
TE the House of Lords. The latter,
RR
AC formerly filled with hereditary
E peers, bishops, and life peers,
ET
The Norman Shaw Buidings was reformed in 2000.

RE
were the site of the original The present Neo-Gothic

ST
Scotland Yard, headquarters building replaced the original

EN
of the Metropolitan Police.

T
palace, which was destroyed

KM
by fire in 1834.
N
BA
To hear debates in either of

the houses from the visitors’
EM
galleries, join the queue outside

Westminster the Cromwell Green visitor
Pier is the main entrance. To attend Prime
A
starting point for

RI
Minister’s Question Time, apply

river trips.
O
for tickets to your local MP.

CT
Visitors are unlikely to gain

VI
entrance from the queue.

ST Westminster
RE station
ET
3 Coca-Cola
London Eye
South Bank SE1. Tel 0871-781 3000.
1 Waterloo, Westminster. @ 77,
. Houses of RV1, 381. Open daily. Closed Dec 25,
Parliament Jan 5–16. & (pick up tickets at
The seat of County Hall, next to the Eye, at least
government is 30 mins before boarding time).
dominated by the 8 7 ∑ londoneye.com
clock tower, holding
the 14-ton bell Big Ben, Reaching to a height of 135 m
hung in 1858. Its deep (443 ft) above the Thames River,
chimes are broadcast this is the world’s highest Ferris
daily on BBC radio. wheel, and was installed to mark
the Millennium. Its capsules offer
a gentle, 30-minute ride as the
wheel makes a full turn, with
Key breathtaking views over the city
0 meters 100 and for up to 42 km (26 miles)
Suggested route
0 yards 100 beyond. “Flights” are on the hour
or half-hour, and need to be
booked in advance.
1 Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey has been the burial place of Britain’s
monarchs since the 11th century and the setting for many
coronations and royal weddings, including the marriage of the
Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. It has an exceptionally
diverse array of architectural styles, ranging from the austere
French Gothic of the nave to the astonishing complexity of . Nave
Built under the direction
Henry VII’s chapel. Half national church, half national museum,
of master mason Henry
the abbey is crammed with an extraordinary collection of tombs Yevele, the nave reaches to
and monuments honoring some of Britain’s greatest public a height of 31 m (102 ft).
figures, from politicians to poets.
North/Main
Entrance
The Coronation Chair has

been used at every coronation
since its construction in 1308.
KEY
1 Statesmen’s Aisle contains

monuments to some of the
country’s greatest political leaders.
2 The Sanctuary, built by
Henry III, has been the scene of
38 coronations.
3 The Pyx Chamber is where
the coinage was thoroughly tested
in medieval times.
4 The museum, closed until 2018
for extensive renovation, contains
the abbey’s rich hoard of treasures.
5 The Cloisters, built mainly
in the 13th and 14th centuries,
link the abbey church with the
other buildings.
Coronation
The coronation ceremony is more
than 1,000 years old and since 1066,
with the crowning of William the
Conqueror on Christmas Day,
Westminster Abbey has been its
sumptuous setting. The coronation Flying Buttresses
of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 was the The massive flying buttresses help
first to be televised. transfer the great weight of the
31 m (102 ft) high nave.

LONDON  55
. Henry VII Chapel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Chapel, built in 1503–19,
has superb late Perpendicular Practical Information
vaultings and choir stalls Broad Sanctuary SW1. Tel 020-
dating from 1512. 7222 5152. Cloisters: Open
8am–6pm daily. Royal Chapels,
Poets’ Corner, Chapter House,
Choir, Statesmen’s Aisle & Nave:
Open 9:30am–3:30pm Mon–Fri
(until 6pm Wed), 9:30am–2pm
Sat. & free to cloisters, College
Garden and St. Margaret’s Church;
the rest has an admission charge.
8 7 limited. 5 Evensong:
5pm Mon–Fri, 3pm Sat & Sun. -
= ∑ westminster-abbey.org
Transport
1 St. James’s Park, Westminster.
@ 3, 11, 12, 24, 53, 88, 148, 159,
211, 453. 4 Westminster Pier.
. Chapter House
This beautiful octagonal room,
remarkable for its 13th-century
tiled floor, is lit by six huge
stained-glass windows
showing scenes from the
abbey’s history.
Historical Plan of the Abbey

The first abbey church was established as early as the 10th century,
but the present French-influenced Gothic structure was begun in
1245 at the behest of Henry III. Because of its unique role as the
coronation church, the abbey escaped Henry VIII’s
dissolution of Britain’s monastic buildings
(1536–9) during the Protestant
Reformation.
Key
Built before 1400
Built in 1503–19
Poets’ Corner
Among the great poets Completed by 1745
honored here are Completed after 1850
Shakespeare (above),
Chaucer, and T.S. Eliot.
Valuable works of 5 Tate Britain

art, such as The Music
Millbank SW1. Tel 020-7887 8888.
Lesson (c.1660) by 1 Pimlico. @ 77a, 88, 507, C10.
Dutch master Jan g between Tate Britain and Tate
Vermeer, are on Modern. Open 10am–6pm daily.
display in the Picture Closed Dec 24–26. & for major
Gallery. A selection exhibitions. 7 8 0 - =
of works from the ∑ tate.org.uk
monarch’s art
collection, one of Founded in 1897, the Tate Gallery,
the finest and most now called Tate Britain, focuses
valuable in the primarily on British art. Many of
world, is displayed in the modern works formerly kept
the Queen’s Gallery, here have been moved to the
a small building Tate Modern (see p67), further
located to one side down the Thames River.
of the palace. The Tate Britain shows the world’s
famous Changing of largest display of British art,
the Guard takes ranging from Tudor times to
place on the palace present day, in line with
forecourt. Crowds the original intention of the
gather to watch the gallery’s sponsor, sugar
colorful half-hour magnate Sir Henry Tate.
parade of guards, One of the most exquisite early
dressed in red works is a portrait of a bejeweled
The Victoria Monument, Buckingham Palace jackets and tall, furry Elizabeth I (c.1575), by Nicholas
hats called bearskins, Hilliard. The influence of the
4 Buckingham exchanging the palace keys. 17th-century Flemish artist Sir
Palace State coaches and other Anthony van Dyck on English
official vehicles may be viewed painters can be seen in William
SW1. Tel 020-7766 7300. 1 St. at the Royal Mews nearby. The Dobson’s Endymion Porter (1642–
James’s Park, Victoria, Green Park. star exhibit is the gold state 5) and the works of Thomas
@ C1, C10, 11, 16, 36, 38, 52, 73, 211.
coach built for George III in Gainsborough (1727–88).
State Rooms: Open end Jul–end Sep:
1761, with fine panels by Among the collection are
daily. & 8 7 phone first. Queen’s
Giovanni Cipriani. some fine examples of William
Gallery: & Changing of the Guard:
11:30am on alternate days (subject to Overlooking the forecourt, Hogarth’s sharply satirical
change). Tel 020-7321 2233. - the East Wing facade of the pictures. The famed horse
∑ royalcollection.org.uk palace was redesigned by paintings of George Stubbs
Aston Webb in 1913. He also include Mares and Foals in a
The Queen’s official London created the spacious, tree-lined Landscape (1760).
home is a very popular avenue known as the Mall, Tate Britain holds a large
attraction. Conversion of the which leads from the palace number of paintings by the
18th-century Buckingham to Trafalgar Square. Used for visionary poet and artist William
House was begun for George IV royal processions on special
in 1826, but the first monarch occasions, the Mall is closed
to occupy the palace was to traffic on Sundays. The
Queen Victoria, in 1837. When national flags of foreign heads
the monarch is in residence, of state fly from its flagpoles
the Royal Standard flag during official visits.
is flown. The avenue follows the edge
The palace tour takes visitors of St. James’s Park, a reserve
up the grand staircase and for wildfowl and popular
through the splendor of the picnic spot in the heart of the
state rooms. The royal family’s city. Originally a marsh, the
private apartments are not park was drained by Henry VIII
open to the public. and incorporated into his
In the Music Room, royal hunting grounds. Later,
babies are christened and Charles II redesigned it as a
state guests presented. The fashionable promenade, with
Queen carries out many an aviary along its southern
formal ceremonies in the edge (from which Birdcage
richly gilded Throne Room, and Walk takes its name). In
the Ballroom is used for state summer, concerts are held The portico of the Tate Britain building,
banquets and investitures. on the park bandstand. dating from 1897
LONDON  57
and Botticelli. Perhaps the most

famous of the Northern
European works is The Arnolfini
Marriage by Jan van Eyck (1434).
Most of the gallery’s other
exhibits are housed on the first
floor of the main building.
Among the 16th-century
paintings, The Adoration of the
Kings (1564) by Flemish artist
Pieter Brueghel the Elder is
notable. Christ Mocked (1490–
1500) by Hieronymus Bosch is
included in the Netherlandish
and German section. The superb
Dutch collection gives two
The Trafalgar Square facade of the National Gallery rooms to Rembrandt. Annibale
Carracci and Caravaggio are
Blake (1757–1827). His work collection was started in 1824 strongly represented among the
was imbued with a mystical when the House of Commons Italian painters. Spanish artist
intensity, a typical example agreed to purchase 38 major Diego Velázquez’s only surviving
being Satan Smiting Job with paintings. These became the female nude, The Rokeby Venus
Sore Boils (c.1826). England’s core of a national collection (1647–51), is one of the most
great 19th-century landscape of European art that now popular and well-known of
artists, Constable and Turner, ranges from Giotto in the 13th the 17th-century works of
are also well represented. century to the 19th-century art. The great age of 19th-
John Constable’s famous Impressionists. The gallery’s century landscape painting
Flatford Mill, painted in 1816–17, particular strengths are in is perhaps best represented
is one of his many depictions Dutch, Italian Renaissance, and by Constable’s The Hay Wain
of the Essex countryside. The 17th-century Spanish painting. (1821), a masterpiece of
Clore Galleries, open since The gallery’s paintings are changing light and shadow.
1987, house the works of hung in chronological order. In the Impressionist section,
J.M.W. Turner (1775–1851), In 1991, the modern Sainsbury Renoir’s Boating on the Seine
whose paintings were left to Wing was added to the main (1879–80) demonstrates the
the nation some years after his Neoclassical building (1834–8) free, flickering touch used by
death on condition that they to house the impressive Early the movement’s artists to
were kept together. His Renaissance collection (1260– capture the fleeting moment.
watercolor A City on a River at 1510). The Leonardo Cartoon Other 19th-century highlights
Sunset (1832) is a highlight. (c.1500), a chalk drawing by include Van Gogh’s Sunflowers,
The Tate also has on display Leonardo da Vinci of the Virgin Monet’s Waterlilies, Rousseau’s
many works by the 19th-century and Child, St. Anne, and John Tropical Storm with Tiger, and
Pre-Raphaelites, including J.E. the Baptist, has been moved Seurat’s Bathers at Asnières.
Millais’ Ophelia (1851–2), as well from here to a more prominent Lesser paintings of all periods
as the works of several modern position near the Trafalgar are displayed on the lower floor
and contemporary artists, such Square entrance. Other Italian of the main building. The better
as Henry Moore and David painters represented include of the gallery’s two restaurants
Hockney. The Tate’s exhibitions Masaccio, Piero della Francesca, is located in the Sainsbury Wing.
change frequently to explore as
much of the collection as possible.
6 National Gallery
Trafalgar Sq WC2. Tel 020-7747 2885.
1 Charing Cross, Leicester Sq,
Piccadilly Circus. @ 3, 6, 9, 11 & many
others. Open 10am–6pm daily (to
9pm Fri). Closed Jan 1, Dec 24–26.
7 via Sainsbury Wing entrance.
8 - ∑ nationalgallery.org.uk
London’s leading art museum,

the National Gallery has more
than 2,300 paintings, most
on permanent display. The Bathers at Asnières (1884), by Georges Seurat, in the National Gallery
The West End 8 Piccadilly

W1. 1 Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.
The West End is the city’s social and cultural center located @ 9, 14, 19, 22, 38.
right next to the London home of the royal family. Stretching
from the edge of Hyde Park to Covent Garden, the district The thoroughfare called Piccadilly
links Hyde Park Corner with
bustles all day and late into the night. Whether you are Piccadilly Circus, but the name
looking for art, history, or street- or café-life, it is the most also refers to the surrounding
rewarding area in which to begin an exploration of the city. area. Today, Piccadilly has two
Monuments, shops, cinemas, and restaurants radiate out from contrasting faces: a bustling
Trafalgar Square, and the entertainment scene is at its liveliest commercial district full of
in the busy streets around Chinatown, Soho, and Leicester shopping arcades, eateries, and
cinemas; and St. James’s, to the
Square. From the garish lights of boisterous Piccadilly Circus south, which still focuses on a
to genteel St. James’s Square, the West End embraces all wealthy, glamorous clientele.
aspects of London life, and caters to every budget. Piccadilly Circus, with its
dazzling neon lights, is a focal
point of the West End. It began
as an early 19th-century
crossroads between Piccadilly
and John Nash’s Regent Street.
Briefly an elegant space, edged
by curving stucco facades, by
1910 the first electric advert-
isements had been installed.
Crowds congregate beneath
the delicately poised figure of
Eros, the Greek god of love.
Erected in 1892 as a memorial
to the Earl of Shaftesbury, a
Victorian philanthropist, the
statue was originally intended
to represent an angel of mercy.
Trafalgar Square by night, with Nelson’s Column in the foreground Among the many notable
sights along Piccadilly, the
7 Trafalgar Square corner stands St. Martin-in-the- Royal Academy, founded
WC2. 1 Charing Cross. @ 3, 6, 9, 11,
Fields. This 18th-century church in 1768, houses a permanent
12, 13, 15, 23, 24, 29, 53, 88, 91, 139, by James Gibbs became a art collection, including a
159, 176, 453. model for the Colonial style of Michelangelo relief of the
church-building in the US. Madonna and Child (1505). Its
London’s main venue for Adjoining the National Gallery, annual summer exhibition is
rallies and outdoor public the National Portrait Gallery renowned for its clever
meetings, Trafalgar Square was depicts Britain’s history through juxtaposition of new and
conceived by John Nash and portraits, photographs, and established works.
mostly constructed during the sculptures. Subjects range from The tranquil St. James’s
1830s. The 50-m (165-ft) tall Elizabeth I to photographs of Church was designed by Sir
column commemorates politicians, actors, and rock stars.
Admiral Lord Nelson, Britain’s Further north, Leicester Square
most famous sea lord, and dates is at the heart of the West End’s
from 1842. Edwin Landseer’s entertainment district, with the
four lions were added 25 years city’s leading cinemas and lively
later. Today the square is very nightclubs, while London’s
popular with tourists. Chinatown attracts a steady
Admiralty Arch, designed in throng of diners and shoppers.
1911, separates courtly London Bordering it, Shaftesbury
from the hurly-burly of Trafalgar Avenue is the main artery of
Square. The central gate is London’s theaterland.
opened only for royal processions.
The restored buildings on the E National Portrait Gallery
square’s south side were built in 2 St. Martin’s Place WC2. Tel 020-7306
1880 as the Grand Hotel. The 0055. Open 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm
north side is taken up by the Thu & Fri). Closed Dec 24–26. & for
National Gallery and its Sainsbury special exhibitions. 7 - = 8 Alfred Gilbert’s 1892 statue of Eros in
Wing (see p57). In the northeast audio guide. ∑ npg.org.uk Piccadilly Circus
LONDON  59
new site and Covent Garden

was revamped. Today, only St.
Paul’s Church remains of Inigo
Jones’s buildings. Samuel Pepys
saw a Punch and Judy show
under the portico in 1662, and
street entertainment has been
a tradition here ever since.
The Royal Opera House
(see p103), designed in 1858 by
E.M. Barry, but totally renovated
A street performer in front of crowds in Covent Garden’s Piazza in 1997–9, is home to the Royal
Opera and Royal Ballet
Christopher Wren in 1684, and 9 Covent Garden Companies. Many of the
the 18th-century Spencer WC2. 1 Covent Garden. @ 1, 6, 9,
world’s greatest dance
House contains fine period 13, 15, 23, 59, 68, 87, 91, 168, 171, 176. performers have appeared
furniture and paintings. This ( daily. on its stage.
Palladian palace was built for Covent Garden has many
an ancestor of Princess Diana. The buzzing open-air cafés, theatrical associations. The
Shopping in and around street entertainers, stylish site of the Theatre Royal,
Piccadilly is very expensive, shops, and markets make completed in 1812, has been
especially in Bond Street, where Covent Garden a magnet for occupied by a theater since
many famous designer labels visitors. The name derives from 1663. St. Martin’s Theatre is
have stores, and in the a medieval convent garden home to the world’s longest-
Burlington Arcade, which is which supplied Westminster running play, The Mousetrap.
patroled by beadles. On Abbey with produce. Other attractions include the
Piccadilly itself, Fortnum and At its center is the Piazza, London Transport Museum
Mason, founded in 1707, is one designed by 17th-century and an area of “alternative”
of London’s most prestigious architect Inigo Jones as an shops around Neal Street and
food stores, while the grand Ritz elegant residential square, after Neal’s Yard. The Lamb and Flag
hotel is a popular afternoon-tea an example from the Tuscan (1623) in Rose Street is one of
venue for the suitably dressed. town of Livorno. For a time, London’s oldest pubs.
Jermyn Street is renowned for houses around the Piazza were
high-quality men’s clothing. highly sought-after, but decline E London Transport Museum
South of Piccadilly is St. James’s accelerated when a fruit and Covent Garden WC2. Tel 020-7379
Square, laid out in the 1670s vegetable market developed. 6344. Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26.
and dominated by a statue of In 1973, the market moved to a 8 & 7 - ∑ ltmuseum.co.uk
William III. It has long been the
most fashionable address in
London. Pall Mall, named after
the 17th-century game of palle-
maille (a cross between croquet
and golf ) once played here, is
lined with gentlemen’s clubs,
which admit only members
and their guests. It leads to the
16th-century St. James’s Palace,
built for Henry VIII. The palace is
still the official headquarters of
the Court of St. James. Opposite
is the Queen’s Chapel, the first
Classical church in England.
E Royal Academy
Burlington House, Piccadilly W1.
Tel 020-7300 8000. Open daily.
Closed Good Fri, Dec 24–26. & for
exhibitions. 8 reserve in advance.
7 ∑ royalacademy.org.uk
P Spencer House
27 St. James’s Pl SW1. Tel 020-7514
1958. Open Sun. Closed Jan & Aug.
& 8 compulsory. 7
∑ spencerhouse.co.uk Statue of a resting ballerina facing the Royal Opera House
0 British Museum Middle East

The oldest public museum in the world, the British Museum Numerous galleries at the
was established in 1753 to house the collections of the museum are devoted to the
physician Sir Hans Sloane (1660–1753). Sloane’s artifacts have Middle Eastern collections,
covering 7,000 years of history.
been added to by gifts and purchases from all over the world, The most famous items are the
and the museum now contains innumerable items stretching 7th-century BC Assyrian reliefs
from the present day to prehistory. Robert Smirke designed from King Ashurbanipal’s palace
the main part of the building (1823–50), but the architectural at Nineveh, but of equal interest
highlight is the modern Great Court, with its remarkable roof. are two large human-headed
The 94 galleries which run for more than 4 km (2 miles), cover bulls from 7th-century BC
Khorsabad, and an inscribed
civilizations from ancient Assyria to modern Japan. Black Obelisk of Assyrian King
Shalmaneser III. Rooms 51–59,
on the upper floor, contain
pieces from ancient Sumeria,
Prehistoric and part of the Oxus Treasure (which
Roman Britain lay buried for over 2,000 years),
Relics of prehistoric Britain are and the museum’s collection
on display in this collection. The of clay cuneiform tablets. The
most impressive items include earliest of these are inscribed
the Mold gold cape made from with the oldest known
a sheet of decorated gold; an pictographs (c.3300 BC).
antlered headdress worn by
hunter-gatherers some 9,000
years ago; and “Lindow Man,” a Ancient Egypt
1st-century AD sacrificial victim Egyptian sculptures can be
who lay preserved in a bog until found in Room 4 on the main
1984. Some superb Celtic floor. These include a fine red
metalwork is also on show, granite head of a king, thought
alongside the silver Mildenhall Reconstruction of the ceremonial helmet to be Amenophis III, and a
Treasure and other notable found at Sutton Hoo colossal statue of king Ramses II.
Roman pieces. The Hinton St. Also on show is the Rosetta
Mary mosaic (4th century AD) the famous 12th-century Lewis Stone, which was used by
features a roundel containing chessmen and a gold enameled Jean-Franćois Champollion
the earliest known British reliquary of the Holy Thorn (1790–1832) as a primer for
depiction of Christ. (Christ’s Crown of Thorns), deciphering Egyptian
dating from the 15th century hieroglyphs. An extraordinary
and said to have belonged to array of mummies, jewelry, and
Medieval, Renaissance, Jean, duc de Berry. Another Coptic art can also be found in
and Modern Objects highlight is a Byzantine icon rooms 61–66 upstairs, including
The spectacular Sutton Hoo painted on a wooden tablet. a famous bronze cat with a gold
ship treasure, the burial hoard The museum’s modern nose-ring. The various
of a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon collection includes Wedgwood instruments used by embalmers
king, is on display in Room 41. pottery, glassware, and a series to preserve bodies before
This superb find, unearthed in of Russian revolutionary plates. entombment are all displayed.
Woodbridge, near Suffolk, in
1939, revolutionized scholars’
understanding of Anglo-Saxon
life and ritual. The artifacts
uncovered include a helmet
and shield, Celtic hanging
bowls, the remains of a lyre,
and gold and garnet jewelry.
Adjacent galleries contain
a collection of clocks and
watches. Some exquisite
timepieces are on view here,
including an over 400-year-old
clock from Prague, designed as
a model galleon; in its day, it
pitched, played music, and even
fired a cannon. Also nearby are Ancient Egyptian tomb painting, The Festival of Sekhtet (1410 BC)
LONDON  61
Oriental Art
Fine porcelain and ancient Practical Information
Shang bronzes (c.1500–1050 BC) Great Russell St WC1.
are highlights of the museum’s Tel 020-7323 8299.
Chinese collection. Particularly Open 10am–5:30pm daily
impressive are the ceremonial (to 8:30pm Fri). Closed Jan 1,
ancient Chinese bronze vessels, Dec 24–26. 8 7 0 - =
∑ thebritishmuseum.org
with their enigmatic animal-
head shapes. The fine Chinese Transport
ceramics range from delicate tea @ 7, 8, 10, 14, 19, 24, 25, 29, 30,
bowls to a model pond which 38, 55, 68, 134, 188.
is almost a thousand years old. 1 Tottenham Court Road,
The Portland Vase, depicting the betrothal Adjacent to these is one of the Holborn, Russell Square.
of Peleus and Thetis finest collections of Asian
religious sculpture outside India.
These include an assortment of Buddhist temple at Amarati,
Greece and Rome sculpted reliefs which once and which recount stories
The Greek and Roman covered the walls of the from the life of the Buddha. A
collections include the Korean section contains some
museum’s most famous gigantic works of Buddhist art.
treasure, the Elgin Marbles. Islamic art, including a stunning
These 5th-century BC reliefs jade terrapin found in a water
from the Parthenon once tank, can be found in Room 34.
comprised a marble frieze Rooms 90–94 house temporary
which decorated Athena’s exhibitions for prints and
temple at the Acropolis in drawings from Asia.
Athens. Much of it was ruined in
battle in 1687, and half of what
survived was removed between Africa
1801 and 1804 by the British An interesting collection of
diplomat Lord Elgin, and sold African sculptures, textiles,
to the British nation. Other and graphic art can be found
highlights include the Nereid in Room 25, located in the
Monument, and sculptures and basement. Famous bronzes
friezes from the Mausoleum at from the Kingdom of Benin
Halicarnassus. The beautiful stand alongside modern
1st-century BC cameo-glass African prints, paintings,
Portland Vase is located in the The Young Prince with his Parents (c.1600), and drawings, plus an array
Roman Empire section. an Indian miniature of colorful fabrics.
The Great Court and the Reading Room

Surrounding the Reading Room of the former British Library, the £100-million Great Court opened to
coincide with the new millennium. Designed by Sir Norman Foster, the Court is covered by a wide-span,
lightweight roof, creating London’s first ever indoor public square. Originally completed in 1857, the
Reading Room soon became
a world-famous center of
learning. From the outside,
however, it is now scarcely
recognizable as the space that
was favored by the likes of Karl
Marx, Mahatma Gandhi, and
George Bernard Shaw. Following
the opening of the British Library
in 1997, the Reading Room was
used to stage temporary
exhibitions, but these are now
held inside the World
Conservation and Exhibition
Centre, a vast extension opened
in 2014. The future of the now
defunct Reading Room remains
the subject of intense debate. The Great Court and Reading Room of the British Museum
q Madame
Tussauds
Marylebone Rd NW1. Tel 0871-894
3000. 1 Baker St. Open from 9:30am
daily; closing times vary. Closed Dec
24 (afternoon) & Dec 25. & = -
7 ∑ madametussauds.co.uk
Madame Tussaud began her

wax-modeling career making
death masks of victims of the
French Revolution. In 1835,
after moving to England, she Wooden rowboats available to rent on Regent’s Park boating lake
set up an exhibition of her
work in Baker Street, near the garden suburb, dotted with 56 In 1730, the Westbourne
museum’s present site. villas in a variety of Classical styles. River was dammed by Queen
Traditional techniques are Eight villas were built inside the Caroline to create an artificial
still used to create the figures park (three survive round the lake – the Serpentine. Today,
of royalty, politicians, actors, edge of the Inner Circle). cafés, restaurants, and the
pop stars, and sporting heroes. The boating lake boasts Serpentine Gallery, which
In the renowned Chamber of many varieties of water has exhibitions of
Horrors, some of the original birds. In summer, Queen modern art, dot the
French Revolution death masks Mary’s Gardens are full of fringes of the lake, which
are displayed, and vivid scenes flowers and Shakespeare is a popular venue for
of murders are recreated: the productions are staged at the boating and swimming.
murderer Dr. Crippen, Vlad the Open Air Theatre nearby. At the southeast corner
impaler, and the chilly gloom Musical performances are of Hyde Park stands
of an east London Victorian also held at the Apsley House, the grand
street during Jack the Ripper’s bandstand on the former home of the
time in the late 19th century. weekend. Broad Walk Duke of Wellington.
In the final section – the Spirit provides a picturesque Now a museum of
of London – visitors travel in stroll north from Park memorabilia to the
stylized taxi-cabs and participate Square towards great politician and
in momentous events in the Primrose Hill. soldier, the lavish
city’s history, from the Great Fire London Zoo, interiors designed
of 1666 to the Swinging Sixties. with its vast animal Statue of Peter Pan in by Robert Adam are
enclosures, borders Kensington Gardens also worth seeing.
the park, and is also A law passed in
an important center of wildlife 1872 made it legal to
research and conservation work. assemble an audience and
address it on whatever topic
you chose. Since then,
e Hyde Park Speaker’s Corner, at the
W2. Tel 0300-061 2000. 1 Hyde Park northeast corner of the park,
Corner, Knightsbridge, Lancaster Gate, has been the established
Marble Arch. Open dawn–midnight venue for budding orators.
daily. 7 ∑ royalparks.org.uk Crowds gather on Sundays
to listen to lively speeches.
Making a model of singer Luciano Pavarotti The ancient manor of Hyde was Adjoining Hyde Park are
at Madame Tussauds part of the lands of Westminster Kensington Gardens, the
Abbey seized by Henry VIII at the former grounds of Kensington
Dissolution of the Monasteries in Palace, which were opened
w Regent’s Park 1536. James I opened the park to the public in 1841. A royal
NW1. Tel 0300-061 2300. 1 Regent’s to the public in the early 17th residence for centuries, the
Park, Great Portland St, Camden Town. century, and it was soon one palace was Princess Diana’s
Open dawn–7pm daily. 7 London of the city’s most fashionable home until her untimely death.
Zoo: Tel 0844-225 1826. Open from public spaces. Unfortunately, Attractions in the gardens
10am daily; closing times vary. Closed it also became popular with include the bronze statue of
Dec 25. & ∑ royalparks.org.uk duelists and highwaymen, J. M. Barrie’s fictional Peter Pan
prompting William III to have (1912), by George Frampton,
This area of land was enclosed 300 lights hung along Rotten and the Round Pond where
as a park in 1812. John Nash Row, the first street in England to model boats are sailed. The
designed the scheme and be lit at night. Today, Rotten Row dignified Orangery (1704) is
originally envisaged a kind of is used for horseback riding. now an upscale café.
LONDON  63
Street by Street: South Kensington

The numerous museums and colleges created in
the wake of the Great Exhibition of 1851 (see pp64–5)
continue to give this neighborhood its dignified
character. Visited as much by Londoners as tourists,
the museum area is liveliest on Sundays and on summer
evenings during the Royal Albert Hall’s famous season
of classical “Prom” concerts (see p102). The Royal Albert Hall
to Kensington Gardens Opened in 1871 and modeled
on a Roman amphitheater, this
The Memorial to magnificent concert hall hosts
the Great a range of events.
Exhibition is
surmounted by a
bronze statue of
its instigator, The Royal College of
Prince Albert. Music, founded in 1882,
exhibits historic musical
AL
instruments from around
the world.
B
ER
PR T COURT
IN
CE
Imperial College,
part of London
CO
. Natural History Museum NS
OR
University, is one of
This pterodactyl is part of a T R the country’s leading
OA
menagerie of sculptures D scientific institutions.
that adorn the facade of
the great museum
(see p64).
IM
PE
RI
AL
CO
LL
EG
E
RO
AD
0 meters 100
AD
0 yards 100
RO
ON
Key
TI
BI
CR Suggested route
O
HI
M
W
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South Kensington
station (two entrances
on Exhibition Road)
. Science Museum
Fascinating exhibits, such as . Victoria and Albert Museum
this 18th-century steam engine, The museum has a fine collection
celebrate the history of science of decorative arts from around the
and technology (see p64). world (see p65).
experiment with aeronautical meet its future energy needs

concepts. through games and hands-on
“The Exploration of Space” exhibits. Our understanding of
exhibits the scarred Apollo 10 human identity is the subject
spacecraft which carried three of “Who Am I?,” where visitors
astronauts to the moon and can learn about genetics and
back in May 1969. There is also current biomedical discoveries.
a video of the Apollo 11 moon The wing also contains an
landing a few weeks later. IMAX® cinema, a 4D motion-
The “Making the Modern effects theater, and a café.
World” gallery displays objects
that have shaped the world as
Children exploring the “Pattern Pod” at the we know it. Among them are t Natural History
Science Museum Stephenson’s Rocket, the most
advanced steam locomotive of Museum
r Science Museum its day, and Crick and Watson’s Cromwell Rd SW7. 1 South
DNA model. Kensington. @ 14, 49, 70, 74, 345,
Exhibition Rd SW7. 1 South
Other popular sections 360, 414, 430, C1. Tel 020-7942 5000.
Kensington. @ 14, 49, 70, 74, 345,
include “Optics,” which has Open 10am–5:50pm daily. Closed
360, 414, 430, C1. Tel 0870-870 4868.
holograms, lasers, and Dec 24–26. 8 7 ∑ nhm.ac.uk
Open 10am–6pm daily. Closed Dec
24–26. & for special exhibitions only. colormixing experiments, and
7 ∑ sciencemuseum.org.uk “Power and Land Transport,” This vast building, designed by
which displays working steam Alfred Waterhouse, is the most
Centuries of scientific and engines, vintage trains, cars, architecturally flamboyant of
technological development and motorbikes. the South Kensington
are illustrated and explained The Wellcome museums. Its richly
at the Science Museum – from Wing is devoted to sculpted stonework
Ancient Greek and Roman contemporary conceals an iron and
medicine to space exploration science and steel frame. This
and nuclear fission. technology. building
The massive and impressive “Antenna” is a technique was
collection, exhibited on five constantly revolutionary
floors, includes steam engines, updated when the museum
spacecraft, and early mechan- exhibition devoted to first opened in 1881.
ical computers. The museum the latest scientific The imaginative displays
aims to bring entertainment to breakthroughs. tackle fundamental
the process of learning, with “Pattern Pod” Triceratops skull, Natural issues, such as the
numerous interactive displays introduces younger History Museum ecology and
for children and staff on hand to children to the evolution of the
provide explanations. Of equal patterns of science in a fun and planet, the origin of species,
importance is the social context colorful way. “In Future” is a and the development of human
of science: how inventions have multi-user game in which beings – all explained through a
transformed day-to-day life, and participants decide how current dynamic combination of the
the process of discovery itself. scientific research could affect latest technology, interactive
One of the most popular the future. “Energy: Fuelling the displays, and traditional exhibits.
displays is “Flight,” which gives Future” challenges children to The museum is divided into
visitors the opportunity to think about how mankind will three sections: the Life and
Earth Galleries and the Darwin
Centre. In the Life Galleries, the
Ecology exhibition begins its
exploration of the complex
web of the natural world,
and man’s role in it, through
a convincing replica of a rain
forest. The most popular
exhibits are in the Dinosaur
section, which has real dinosaur
skeletons and life like
animatronics. “Creepy Crawlies,”
with specimens from the insect
and spider world, and the
Mammals exhibition, enable
visitors to see endangered
The colorful “Antenna” section in the Science Museum Wellcome Wing and dangerous creatures.
LONDON  65
The Earth Galleries explore the

history of Earth and its wealth of
natural resources, and offer the
opportunity to experience the
rumblings of an earthquake.
In the state-of-the-art Darwin
Centre visitors can take an
interactive journey inside a vast
concrete cocoon that houses
millions of specimens. Here, too,
is the Attenborough Studio,
which features live shows, films,
and talks, many of them free.
y Victoria and
Albert Museum
Cromwell Rd SW7. 1 South
Kensington. @ 14, 74, C1. Tel 020-
7942 2000. Open 10am–5:45pm daily
(to 10pm Fri). Closed Dec 24–26. &
for special exhibitions. 8 7
∑ vam.ac.uk
Originally founded in 1852 as

a Museum of Manufacturing –
to inspire and raise standards
among students of design – the
V&A, as it is popularly known,
has 11 km (7 miles) of galleries
on four floors. The museum was
renamed by Queen Victoria in Facade of the Victoria and Albert Museum
1899, in memory of her late
husband, and contains one of 1590. The Victorian designers Tiger (c.1790), which mauls a
the world’s richest collections who decorated the plush European soldier when activated.
of fine and applied arts. Morris, Gamble, and Poynter Eight galleries devoted to the
Since 1909, the museum has Rooms recreated historic styles arts of the Far East display rare
been housed in a building with newer industrial materials. jade and ceramics, a giant
designed by Sir Aston Webb. The fully furnished interiors Buddha’s head from AD 700–900,
The museum has undergone a offer a vivid picture of social and a Ming canopied bed.
dramatic restructuring of much life through their displays of Among exhibits in the China
of its collection and gallery furniture and other domestic Gallery is a watercolor on silk
spaces, alongside a grand objects. Among exhibits in the from the Qing Dynasty (1644–
development of the central 20th-Century Gallery is Daniel 1912). The Toshiba Gallery
John Madejski Garden. Weil’s painting Radio in a Bag focuses on Japanese art,
Donatello’s marble relief (1983). The V&A has a wide including Samurai armor and
of The Ascension is collection of metalwork, woodblock prints. The world-
included in the Sculpture including a 16th-century salt renowned Fashion Court is
collection, along with cellar, the Burghley Nef. displayed on level 1. Spanning
sculptures from India and The Silver Gallery also more than four centuries, from
the Middle and Far East. explores the history the mid-1500s to the present
Craftsmanship in and techniques day, it is the world’s most
porcelain, glass, and of silvermaking. comprehensive collection of
pottery is displayed Gallery III is clothing. Highlights include rare
on levels 4 and 6, devoted to 17th-century gowns, 1930s
with rare pieces the making eveningwear, and post-war
by Picasso and of sculpture, couture, plus several key items
Bernard Leach, 18th-century wooden doll, Victoria ranging from from contemporary designers.
intricate Near and Albert Museum medieval ivories to The museum also houses
Eastern tiles, and a modern bronzes. valuable illustrated documents
wide selection of Chinese pieces. Among the textiles, weapons, in the National Art Library
The most celebrated item in jewelry, metalwork, glass, and and the Photographs Gallery
the vast array of furniture is the paintings of the South Asia with images from 1856 to
Great Bed of Ware, made around Gallery is the automated Tippoo’s the present.
The City and Southwark Memorials to famous figures,

such as Lawrence of Arabia
Dominated by gleaming office blocks, befitting its status as and Lord Nelson, can be seen
London’s financial and business center, the City is also the in the crypt. The inscription on
oldest part of the capital. The Great Fire of 1666 obliterated Wren’s tomb is fitting: “Reader,
if you seek a monument, look
many of its buildings, and much of the reconstruction was all around you.”
undertaken by Sir Christopher Wren. St. Paul’s Cathedral
is the most magnificent of his surviving works. Humming
i Museum of
with activity in business hours, the City empties at night.
Southwark, on the south bank of the Thames, was a refuge London
for prostitutes and gamblers in the Middle Ages. Theaters, 150 London Wall EC2. Tel 0207-0019
including the Globe, where many of Shakespeare’s plays were 844. 1 Barbican, St. Paul’s. Open
10am–6pm daily. Closed Dec 24–26.
performed, and other places of entertainment were built 7 ∑ museumoflondon.org.uk
along the waterfront in the second half of the 16th century.
This fascinating museum
traces life in London from
prehistoric times to the 20th
century, through nine
permanent galleries.
Objects from Roman London
include a brightly colored
2nd-century fresco, while from
the Tudor city, an example of an
early English Delft plate, made
in 1602 at Aldgate, bears an
inscription praising Elizabeth I.
The 17th-century section
contains the shirt Charles I
wore on the scaffold, and an
Spacious interior of St. Paul’s Cathedral, in the City audio-visual display recreating
the Great Fire of 1666. A dress
u St. Paul’s Modifications to Wren’s original in Spitalfields silk, dating from
Cathedral plan include the towers of
the west front, the double
1753, is among the many fine
costumes on display.
Ludgate Hill EC4. Tel 020-7246 8350. colonnade of the west portico, One of the most popular
£ City Thames Link. 1 St. Paul’s, and the balustrade – added exhibits is the lavishly gilded
Mansion House. @ 4, 11, 15, 17, 23, against his wishes in 1718. Lord Mayor’s State Coach, built
25, 76 & 172. Open 8:30am–4pm
Pediment carvings on the in 1757 and still used for the
Mon–Sat; for services only Sun,
west portico show the Lord Mayor’s Show, held in
Dec 25 & Good Fri. Check website
Conversion of St. Paul. November each year.
for partial or full closures. & 8
∑ stpauls.co.uk Wren created a cool and The Victorian Walk takes
majestic interior. The nave, visitors back to the time of
Rebuilt on the site of a medieval transepts, and choir are Charles Dickens, vividly
cathedral after the Great Fire of arranged in the traditional recreating the atmosphere of
1666, this magnificent Baroque shape of a cross. Its climax is in 19th-century London with
building, designed by Sir the great open space of the authentic shop interiors.
Christopher Wren, was crossing, below the main dome,
completed in 1710. which is decorated with mono-
St. Paul’s has been the setting chrome frescoes by Sir James o Tate Modern
for great ceremonial events, Thornhill, a leading architectural
Bankside SE1. Tel 020-7887 8888.
including the funeral of Sir painter of the time. From the 1 Southwark, Blackfriars, Waterloo.
Winston Churchill in 1965 and south aisle, 259 steps ascend @ 45, 63, 100, 381, 344, RV1. 4 from
the wedding of Prince Charles to the circular Whispering Tate Britain. Open 10am–6pm Sun–
and Lady Diana in 1981. Gallery, so-called because Thu, 10am–10pm Fri & Sat. Closed
At 110 m (360 ft) high, the of the unusual acoustics. Dec 24–26. & special exhibitions.
dome is the second largest Much of the fine wrought 7 8 ∑ tate.org.uk/modern
in the world, after that of St. ironwork was created by Jean
Peter’s in Rome. Supported Tijou, a Huguenot refugee. One of the world’s main
by a brick cone, the lantern The intricate carvings of collections of 20th-century
weighs a massive 850 tonnes. cherubs, fruits, and garlands art is housed in this imposing
The dome’s gallery affords a on the choir stalls are the former power station, with its
splendid view over London. work of Grinling Gibbons. vast, cathedral-like spaces.
LONDON  67
home to offices, top restaurants,

the five-star Shangri-La hotel,
and apartments. The main
indoor viewing gallery is on
floor 69 while floor 72 (the
building's last habitable floor)
has a partially outdoor
observation deck, with 360
degree panoramas covering
64 km (40 miles).
s Tower of London
See pp68–9.
d Tower Bridge
SE1. Tel 020-7403 3761. 1 Tower
Sculpture from the inaugural exhibition in the vast Turbine Hall, Tate Modern Hill, London Bridge. The Tower Bridge
Exhibition: Open 10am–5:30pm daily.
Originally designed by Sir Giles A detailed reproduction of an Closed Dec 24–26. & 7 e
Gilbert Scott, the architect of Elizabethan theater has been ∑ towerbridge.org.uk
London’s red telephone kiosks, built on the riverside close to
the huge Bankside building was the site of the original Globe, This flamboyant piece of
acquired by the Tate Gallery in Shakespeare’s “wooden O,” Victorian engineering,
2000; it had been disused since where many of his plays were completed in 1894, soon
1981. Swiss architects were first performed. Open to the became a symbol of London.
responsible for the building’s elements, the theater operates Its two Gothic towers contain
redesign, which allows the only in the summer. Seeing a the mechanism for raising the
works of art to be displayed in play here can be a lively roadway to permit large ships
a dynamic style. experience, with “groundlings” to pass through. The towers are
Unusually, the permanent (those with cheap standing- made of a supporting steel
collection is exhibited in four room tickets) in front of the framework clad in stone. When
themed groups: poetry and stage encouraged to cheer or raised, the roadway creates a
dream, idea and object, states jeer. An informative tour of the space 40 m (135 ft) high and
of flux and material gestures. theater is offered by “resting” 60 m (200 ft) wide. In its heyday,
The paintings and sculptures Globe actors, and visitors can it was raised and lowered five
embrace Surrealism, Abstract enjoy being center stage times a day.
Expressionism, Pop Art, and among them. Beneath the The bridge now houses
Minimal and Conceptual Art. theater is the Underglobe, The Tower Bridge Exhibition,
Major works include Picasso’s where every aspect of with displays which bring its
The Three Dancers, Dalí’s The Shakespeare’s work is vividly history to life. There are fine
Metamorphosis of Narcissus, brought to life through the river views from the walkways
and Andy Warhol’s Marilyn use of modern technology between the towers, and the
Diptych. There are also and traditional crafts. steam-engine room, which was
temporary exhibitions of works in use until 1976, can be visited.
by lesser-known artists, and by
more controversial newcomers. a The Shard
At the top of the building are
London Bridge St, SE1. Tel 0844-499
two floors enclosed in glass.
7111 (bookings). 1 London Bridge.
One is a restaurant with superb Open 9am–10pm daily. Closed Dec
views. Natural light filters down 25. & 7 ∑ theviewfromthe
to the upper galleries. shard.com
Designed by the Italian architect

p Shakespeare’s Renzo Piano, The Shard is the
Globe tallest building in the European
214 New Globe Walk SE1. Tel 020- Union at 310 m (1,016 ft). Its
7401 9919. 1 London Bridge, iconic shape dominates the
Mansion House, Southwark. London skyline, its appearance
Open daily. Closed Dec 24, 25. changing with the weather
Performances: Apr–Oct. thanks to the crystalline facade
& 7 8 every 30 mins. that reflects the sunlight and
∑ shakespearesglobe.com sky. The building’s 87 floors are Tower Bridge, a symbol of London
s Tower of London
Soon after he became king in 1066, William the
Conqueror built a fortress here to guard the entrance
to London from the Thames Estuary. In 1097, the White
Tower, which today occupies the center of the complex,
was completed in stone; other fine buildings have been
added over the centuries. The Tower has served as a Beauchamp Tower
royal residence, armory, treasury, and most famously as Many high-ranking prisoners were held
a prison for enemies of the Crown. Some were tortured, here, often with their own servants.
and among those who met their death here were the The tower was built by Edward I
around 1281.
“Princes in the Tower,” the sons and heirs of Edward IV.
Today, the Tower is a popular attraction, housing the
Crown Jewels and other fine exhibits. Thirty seven
Yeoman Warders, known as “Beefeaters,” guard the
complex and live here. Its most celebrated residents
are seven ravens. Legend claims that the kingdom
will fall if they desert the Tower.
Queen’s House
This Tudor building
is the sovereign’s
official residence
at the Tower.
KEY
1 Tower Green was the execution

site for aristocratic prisoners, away
from crowds on Tower Hill, where
many had to submit to public
execution. Seven people died here,
including two of Henry VIII’s six wives,
Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard.
2 Two 13th-century curtain walls
protect the tower. Main entrance from Tower Hill
(Middle Tower)
The Crown Jewels

The world’s best-known collection of precious objects, now
displayed in a splendid exhibition room, includes the gorgeous
regalia of crowns, scepters, orbs, and swords used at coronations
and other state occasions. Most date from 1661, when Charles II The Sovereign’s
commissioned replacements for regalia destroyed by Parliament Ring (1831)
after the execution of Charles I. Only a few older pieces survived,
hidden by royalist clergymen until the Restoration. These
included Edward the Confessor’s sapphire ring, now The Sovereign’s Orb
incorporated into the Imperial State Crown. The crown was (1661), a hollow gold
made for Queen Victoria in 1837 and has been used at the sphere encrusted
coronation of every monarch since. with jewels

LONDON  69
. Jewel House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Among the
magnificent Crown Practical Information
Jewels is the Scepter Tower Hill EC3. Tel 0870-756
with the Cross 7070. Open 10am–5:30pm Sun
(1660), which & Mon; 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat;
contains the world’s closes 4:30pm in winter. Last
largest diamond. adm: 30 mins before closing.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 24–26. &
7 limited, except Jewel House.
. White Tower Ceremony of the Keys: 9:30pm
When the tower was finished daily. ∑ hrp.org.uk
in 1097, it was London’s tallest
Transport
building at 27 m (90 ft) high.
1 Tower Hill; Docklands Light
Railway to Tower Gateway;
London Bridge; Fenchurch St.
@ 15, 42, 78, 100.
4 from Westminster to
Tower Pier.
. Chapel of St. John

This austere yet beautiful
Romanesque chapel is a
es particularly fine example
am
Th of Norman architecture.
Traitors’ Gate
The infamous entrance
was used for prisoners
brought from trial in
Westminster Hall.
Bloody Tower
Explored in a display here,
Edward IV’s two sons were
put in the Bloody Tower
by their uncle, Richard of
Gloucester, in 1483. The
princes, depicted here by
John Millais (1829–96),
disappeared mysteriously
and their uncle became King
Richard III later that year. In
1674, the skeletons of two
children were found nearby.
London: Farther Afield of nautical objects, including a

number of figureheads.
Over the centuries, London has steadily expanded to embrace
the scores of villages that once surrounded it. Although now E Royal Observatory Greenwich
Blackheath Ave. Tel 020-8858 4422.
linked in an almost unbroken urban sprawl, many of these Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26. 7 =
areas have managed to retain a strong individual character. ∑ rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory
Portobello Road has hosted a market since 1837, while Notting E Queen’s House and National
Hill, once farmland, is now covered with townhouses. Greenwich Maritime Museum
and Richmond recall the days when the Thames was an Romney Rd SE10. Tel 020-8312 6608.
important artery for transport and commerce. The riverside Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26. 7
limited. & ∑ nmm.ac.uk
around Richmond and Kew, to the southwest of London, was
a favorite site for the great country retreats of the aristocracy.
Perhaps the grandest riverside residence of all is the royal
palace of Hampton Court, set in elaborate, luxuriant gardens.
The exquisite Queen’s House

has been restored to its late
17th-century glory. Highlights
are the unusually shaped main
hall and the intriguing spiral
“tulip staircase.”
The adjoining National
Maritime Museum has exhibits
ranging from primitive canoes
through Elizabethan galleons
to modern ships. Nearby,
the Old Royal Naval College
View of the 17th-century Queen’s House was designed in two halves A colorful antique shop on London’s
at Greenwich so the Queen’s House could Portobello Road
retain its river view. The
f Greenwich
g Notting Hill and
chapel and the Painted Hall
SE10. £ Greenwich, Maze Hill, & are open to the public.
Docklands Light Railway to Cutty Sark, The Cutty Sark is the last Portobello Road
Greenwich. 4 from Westminster. surviving 19th-century clipper W11. 1 Notting Hill Gate, Ladbroke
ship. It is possible to walk the Grove. ( Fri & Sat.
Best known as the place from decks and explore the hold,
which the world’s time is which houses several collections Notting Hill and Portobello
measured, Greenwich also Road have been a focus for the
marks the historic eastern Caribbean community since
approach to London by land the peak years of immigration
and water. The area is steeped in the 1950s and 1960s. Today,
in maritime and royal history. this is a trendy residential
The meridian line that divides district, whose vibrant
the earth’s eastern and western cosmopolitan spirit is captured
hemispheres passes through the in the 1999 film starring Julia
Royal Observatory Greenwich Roberts and Hugh Grant.
(now housing a museum). The West Indian flavor is best
Designed by Christopher Wren, experienced during Europe’s
the building is topped by a ball largest street carnival. First held
on a rod, dropped at 1pm every in 1966, it takes over the entire
day since 1833 so that ships’ area on the August bank holiday
chronometers could be set by it. weekend. On the Sunday and
The Observatory also boasts the Monday, costumed parades
Peter Harrison Planetarium, the flood the crowded streets.
only one of its kind in London. Portobello Road market has
Because of its links with time, a bustling atmosphere with
Greenwich was chosen as the hundreds of stands and shops
site for Britain’s year 2000 selling a variety of collectables.
exhibition. Formerly the The southern end consists
Millennium Dome, the O2 almost exclusively of stands
Arena is now used as an A rare 24-hour clock at the Old Royal selling antiques, jewelry, and
entertainment complex. Observatory, Greenwich souvenirs popular with tourists.
LONDON  71
h Richmond
and Kew
SW15. 1 Kew Gardens, Richmond.
4 to Kew Bridge, Richmond.
The attractive village of

Richmond took its name from a
palace built in 1500 by Henry VII
(formerly the Earl of Richmond),
the remains of which can be seen
off the green. The vast Richmond
Park was once Charles I’s royal
hunting ground. In summer,
boats sail from central London
to Richmond and Kew.
The nobility continued to
An aerial view of the impressive Hampton Court Palace
favor Richmond after royalty
had left, and some of their P Ham House to the king. The palace was
mansions have survived. The Ham St, Ham. Tel 020-940 1950. extended by Henry, and again
Palladian villa, Marble Hill Open Apr–Oct: Sat–Thu. Gardens, at the end of the 17th century
House, was completed in 1729 shop & café: Open daily. & 8 by William III and Mary II, with
for the mistress of George II. Y Kew Gardens the help of Christopher Wren.
On the opposite side of the Kew. Tel 020-8332 5655. 1 Kew From the outside, the palace
Thames, Ham House, built in Gardens. @ 65, 237, 267, 391, 419. is a harmonious blend of Tudor
1610 for Sir Thomas Vavasour Open 10am–6:30pm daily. Closed and English Baroque. A
(Knight Marshal to James I), Dec 24, 25. & 7 0 ∑ kew.org remarkable feature is the
had its heyday later that Astronomical Clock, created
century when the aristocratic for Henry VIII in 1540.
Lauderdale family moved in. Inside, Wren’s Classical royal
Ham was extended and rooms, such as the King’s
refurbished as a palatial villa, Apartments, contrast with Tudor
reflecting the Duke of architecture, such as the Great
Lauderdale’s status as one of Hall. The stained-glass window
Charles II’s most powerful here shows Henry VIII flanked
ministers. Much of this luxurious Deer grazing in Richmond Park, a former by the coats of arms of his six
interior decor remains. royal hunting ground wives. Superb woodwork in the
On the riverbank to the south, Chapel Royal, including the
Kew Gardens, the most massive reredos by Grinling
complete botanic gardens in the j Hampton Court Gibbons, dates from a major
world, is flawlessly maintained, East Molesey, Surrey. Tel 0844-482 refurbishment by Queen Anne
with examples of nearly every 7777. £ 4 Hampton Court. (c.1711). In the Queen’s Gallery,
plant that can be grown in @ 111, 216, 411, 451, 461, R68. where entertainments were
Britain. Highlights are the Palm Open 10am–6pm daily (to 4:30pm often staged, the marble
House, with thousands of exotic in winter). Closed Dec 24–26. & chimneypiece is by John Nost.
tropical blooms, and the delicate 8 7 0 = ∑ hrp.org.uk Many of the state apartments
plants of the Temperate House. are decorated with furniture,
The Gardens became a UNESCO Cardinal Wolsey, chief minister paintings, and tapestries from
World Heritage Site in 2003. Near to Henry VIII, began building the Royal Collection. The King’s
the river, the London Museum Hampton Court in 1514. A few Staircase has wall paintings by
of Water and Steam is housed in years later, in the hope of Antonio Verrio. Nine canvases
an old water-pumping station. retaining royal favor, he gave it depicting the Triumph of Julius
Caesar (1490) are housed in the
Mantegna Gallery.
The restored Baroque privy
garden, originally created for
William and Mary, features
radiating avenues of majestic
limes and formal flowerbeds.
The Fountain Garden still has
a few yews planted during
their reign. Other attractions
are the maze and the Great
The distinctive Palm House at London’s famous Kew Gardens Vine, planted in 1768.
2 Canterbury
Kent. * 50,000. £ @ n The
Beaney House of Art & Knowledge,
18 High Street (01227-378 100).
( Wed & Fri.
Canterbury was an important

Roman town even before St.
Augustine arrived in 597, sent
by the pope to convert the
Anglo-Saxons to Christianity.
The town rose in importance,
soon becoming the center of
Christianity in England.
Under the Normans, the city
maintained its position as the The domes and minarets of the Royal Pavilion, Brighton
country’s leading archbishopric.
A new cathedral was built on England. Beneath Canterbury’s more lavish, George needed a
the ruins of the Anglo-Saxon streets lies the Roman Museum, suitably extravagant setting. In
cathedral in 1070. It was enlarged highlights of which include the 1815, he employed architect
and rebuilt many times; as a foundations of a Roman house. John Nash to transform the
result, it embraces examples of all house into the fantastic Oriental
styles of medieval architecture. R Cathedral palace that we see today.
The most poignant moment Christ Church Gate. Tel 01227-762 862. Completed in 1822, the exterior
in the cathedral’s history came Open daily. Closed during services & remains largely unaltered.
in 1170 when Thomas Becket, concerts, Good Fri, Dec 25. & 7 8 Traditional seaside fun is
the Archbishop of Canterbury ∑ canterbury-cathedral.org focused on Brighton’s pebble
and enemy of King Henry II, beach. Brighton Pier, a late-
was murdered here. Trinity Victorian pleasure ground, is
Chapel was built to house 3 Brighton now filled with amusement
Becket’s remains. Sussex. * 249,000. £ @ n 5 arcades. Also worth visiting is the
Until the Dissolution, the Pavilion Bldgs (01273-290 337). ( maze of shops and winding alleys
cathedral was one of the chief Mon–Sat. _ Brighton Festival (May). from the original village of Bright-
places of pilgrimage in all helmstone, called The Lanes.
Christendom. The Canterbury Tales As the nearest south-coast
by Geoffrey Chaucer (c.1345– city to London, Brighton is P Royal Pavilion
1400), one of the greatest works perennially popular. Old Steine. Tel 03000-290 900. Open
of early English literature, tells of The spirit of the Prince Regent daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. & 8 -
a group of pilgrims who are (later George IV) lives on in the 7 limited. ∑ brightonmuseums.
traveling from London to magnificence of the Royal org.uk/royalpavilion
Becket’s shrine in 1387. Pavilion, where the prince
Adjacent to the ruins of St. resided with the Catholic widow
Augustine’s Abbey is St. Martin’s Mrs. Fitzherbert after their secret 4 Windsor Castle
Church, one of the oldest in marriage. As his parties became See pp74–5.
5 Winchester
Hampshire. * 36,000. £ @
n Guildhall, High Street (01962-840
500). ( Wed–Sat.
The capital of the ancient

kingdom of Wessex, the city
of Winchester was also the
headquarters of England’s
Anglo-Saxon kings.
William the Conqueror built
one of his first English castles
here. The only surviving part is
the Great Hall, erected in 1235
to replace the original. It is now
home to the legendary Round
Table of King Arthur, said to
Canterbury Cathedral, dominating the skyline have been built by the wizard
ENGLAND  73
Merlin, but actually made in the

13th century.
The Westgate Museum is one
of two surviving 12th-century
gatehouses in the city wall. The
room (once a prison) above the
gate has a glorious 16th-century
painted ceiling.
Winchester has been an
ecclesiastical center for centuries.
Its fine cathedral was begun in
1079. Originally a Benedictine The awe-inspiring megaliths of Stonehenge, Salisbury Plain
monastery, it has preserved
much of its Norman architecture makes a fine setting for Salisbury’s 7 Stonehenge
despite numerous alterations. cathedral. In the medieval King’s
Off A303, Wiltshire. Tel 0870-333 1181.
The writer Jane Austen is buried House, the Salisbury and @ 3 from Salisbury. Open daily.
here. Built around 1110, Wolvesey South Wiltshire Museum has Closed Dec 24 & 25. & 8 - 7
Castle, once home of the bishops displays on early man,
of Winchester, now lies in ruins. Stonehenge, and Old Sarum. Built in several stages from
Beyond the walls of the about 3000 BC onward,
P Great Hall Cathedral Close, Salisbury Stonehenge is Europe’s most
Castle Ave. Tel 01962-846 476. developed its chessboard famous prehistoric monument.
Open 10am–5pm daily. layout, with areas devoted to We can only guess at the rituals
Closed Dec 25, 26. 7 different trades, perpetuated that took place here, but the
in street names such as Fish alignment of the stones leaves
Row and Butcher Row. little doubt that the circle
The busy High Street leads to reflects the changing trajectory
the 13th-century Church of St. of the sun through the sky and
Thomas, which has a lovely the passing of the seasons.
carved timber roof (1450). Stonehenge’s monumental
Nearby, on Silver Street, scale is all the more impressive
Poultry Cross was built in the given that the only available
15th century as a covered tools were made of stone,
poultry market. In the bustling wood, and bone. To quarry,
Market Place, many of the brick transport, and erect the huge
and tile-hung Georgian facades stones, its builders must have
conceal medieval houses. had the command of immense
resources and pools of labor.
The 13th-century Round Table in the Great R Cathedral Stonehenge was completed
Hall, Winchester The Close. Tel 01722-555 120. in about 1250 BC; despite
Open daily. & donation. 8 7 popular belief, it was not built
6 Salisbury ∑ salisburycathedral.org.uk by the Druids, who flourished
Wiltshire. * 40,000. £ @ n Fish E Salisbury and South in Britain 1,000 years later.
Row (01722-342 860). ( Tue & Sat. Wiltshire Museum The spectacular visitor center,
_ Salisbury International Arts Festival The Close. Tel 01722-332 151. located 2.4 km (1.5 miles) from
(end May–mid-Jun). Open Mon–Sat (Jun–Sep: Sun pm). the stones, presents a history
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 7 of the site and there is a museum
Salisbury was founded in 1220, limited. ∑ salisburymuseum.org.uk packed with priceless artifacts.
when the Norman hilltop
settlement of Old Sarum was
abandoned in favor of a site
amid lush water meadows,
where the Nadder, Bourne,
Avon, Ebble, and Wylye meet.
A cathedral was built here in
the early 13th century. It is a fine
example of the Early English style
of Gothic architecture, typified
by tall, pointed lancet windows.
The magnificent landmark spire
is the tallest in England.
The spacious and tranquil
Close, with its schools, alms-
houses, and clergy housing, Sculpture by Elisabeth Frink (1930–93) in Cathedral Close, Salisbury
4 Windsor Castle
The oldest continuously inhabited royal residence in Britain,
the castle, originally made of wood, was founded by William
the Conqueror in the late 11th century to guard the western
approaches to London. He chose the site because it was on
high ground and just a day’s journey from the Tower of
London. Successive monarchs have made alterations that
render it a remarkable monument to royalty’s changing
tastes. King George V’s affection for it was shown when he
chose Windsor for his family surname in 1917. The castle is
an official residence of the present Queen, who often stays Albert Memorial Chapel
here at weekends. First built in the 1240s, it was
rebuilt in 1485 and finally
converted into a memorial
King Henry for Prince Albert in 1863.
VIII Gate
Castle Hill
and main
entrance
. St. George’s Chapel

The architectural highlight
of the castle, this chapel was
built between 1475 and
1528 and is an outstanding
Late Gothic work. Ten
monarchs are buried here.
Albert Memorial
Chapel (1485) The Round
Tower (1080)
Waterloo Chamber
(1820s)
St. George’s Hall
(1357–68)
Middle
Lower Ward Ward
St. George’s Chapel (1475–1528) Upper Ward
Key Windsor Castle’s History

11th–13th centuries
Most of the work on the castle –
founded in 1080 as a motte and
14th century
bailey – was carried out by Henry II
15th–18th centuries and Edward III, before it was
19th–20th centuries remodeled by George IV in 1823.

ENGLAND  75
Drawing Gallery
This chalk
etching of Christ
by Michelangelo
Castle Hill. Tel 020-7766 7300.
is part of the
Open 9:45am–5:15pm (Nov–Feb:
Resurrection Series.
4:15pm) daily (last adm: 75 mins
It belongs to the
before closing). Closed see web-
Royal Collection, a
site. & 7 5 St. George’s Chapel:
small selection of
5:15pm Mon–Sat; Sun (for worship-
which is shown here
pers). ∑ royalcollection.org.uk
at any one time.
Waterloo Chamber
Created as part of
Charles Long’s brief for
remodeling the castle
in 1823, the Waterloo
Chamber was previously
a mere space between
curtain walls.
The Fire of 1992

A devastating blaze began during
maintenance work on the State
Apartments. St. George’s Hall was
damaged but has been rebuilt.
KEY
1 The Round Tower was first built

in wood by William the Conqueror. In
1170, it was rebuilt in stone by Henry
II. It now houses the Royal Archives
and Photographic Collection.
2 Statue of Charles II
3 The Audience Chamber is
where the Queen greets her guests.
4 The Queen’s Ballroom
5 Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House
was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens
in 1924. Nearly every item was built
on a 1:12 ratio. The wine cellar
contains genuine vintage wine.
. State Apartments
These rooms hold many treasures, 6 Brunswick Tower
including this late 18th-century 7 The East Terrace Garden was
state bed in the King’s State created by Sir Jeffry Wyatville for
Bedchamber, used for the visit in King George IV in the 1820s.
1855 of Napoleon III.
in St. Austell was built in

1998–2000 in an old Cornish
china-clay pit. The aim of this
vast educational and research
center is to teach visitors about
the vital relationship between
plants, people, and resources
in an informative and fun way.
Two bulbous “greenhouses,”
huge segmented geodesic
domes known as biomes,
dominate the site, which holds
some 4,500 species of plants.
The administrative capital of
Cornwall is Truro, a city of A wild Dartmoor pony, a familiar sight in
West front of the Cathedral Church of gracious Georgian buildings Devon’s national park
St. Peter in Exeter, Devon and cobbled streets. Here, the
Royal Cornwall Museum has 0 Bristol
displays on mining, smuggling,
8 Devon and and Methodism.
Avon. * 450,000. k £ @
Cornwall Devon’s capital is Exeter,
n E Shed, 1 Canon’s Road (0906-711
2191). ( daily. _ Harbor Festival
£ @ Truro (Cornwall), Exeter a lively city with fine Roman (mid-Jul), International Balloon
(Devon). n Boscawen Street, Truro and medieval relics. The mainly Fiesta (Aug).
(01872-274 555); Quay House, 14th-century Cathedral Church
Quayside, Exeter (01392-271 611). of St. Peter is one of the most The city of Bristol, at the mouth
superbly ornamented of the Avon, was once the main
Miles of stunning coastline cathedrals in Britain. British port for transatlantic
dominate this magical corner Devon’s most popular trade, pioneering the era of the
of Britain. Busy seaside resorts recreation area is Dartmoor steam liner. The city grew rich
alternate with secluded coves National Park. At its heart on the transportation of wine,
and fishing villages rich in is a bleak and windswept tobacco, and, in the 17th
maritime history. Inland, lush landscape, dotted with tors – century, slaves.
pastures contrast with stark out-crops of granite rock – and There is a covered market in the
and treeless moorland. grazed by herds of wild ponies. city center, part of which occupies
Britain’s most westerly point, the Corn Exchange, built by
Land’s End, is noted for its O Eden Project John Wood the Elder in 1743.
remote and wild landscape. St. Austell. Tel 01726-811 911. £ St. St. John’s Gate has colorful statues
Nearby, the former Benedictine Austell, then local bus. Open daily. of Bristol’s mythical founders, King
monastery of St. Michael’s Closed Dec 24 & 25. & 7 Brennus and King Benilus.
Mount rises dramatically from ∑ edenproject.com Bristol’s cathedral took an
the waters of Mount Bay off O Dartmoor National Park unusually long time to build.
Cornwall’s southern coast. On Devon. £ @ to Exeter, Plymouth, The choir was begun in 1298,
the north coast, St. Ives, with Totnes then local bus. n Visitor the transepts and tower were
its crescent of golden sands, is Centre, Princetown (01822-890414). finished in 1515, but the nave
internationally renowned for its took another 350 years to build.
two art museums, the Barbara Designed by Isambard
Hepworth Museum and the Tate
9 Bath Kingdom Brunel, the SS Great
Gallery St. Ives. The Eden Project See pp78–9. Britain was the world’s first large
iron passenger ship. Launched in
1843, it traveled 32 times round
the world. The ship is now in the
dock where it was originally built,
undergoing restoration.
Housed inside the former
goods shed of Temple Meads
station, At-Bristol is an
innovative science and
technology center, complete
with a 3D planetarium.
The Arnolfini Gallery is a
showcase for contemporary art,
dance, drama, and film. It is on
the harborside, which is lined
Cornwall’s wild and rugged southern coastline with cafés, bars, and galleries.
ENGLAND AND WALES  77
Wales
Wales is a country of outstanding natural beauty, with varied
landscapes. Visitors come to climb dramatic mountain peaks,
walk in the forests, fish in the broad rivers, and enjoy the miles
of untainted coastline. The country’s many seaside towns have
long been popular with British vacationers. As well as outdoor
pursuits, there is the vibrancy of Welsh culture, with its strong
Celtic roots, to be experienced. The Welsh have their own
language, which has survived despite the
pervasive use of the English tongue.
marina and waterfront. Here,

the Pier Head Building,
constructed in 1896, is a
reminder of the city’s heyday. Snowdonia National Park, popular with
climbers and hikers
+ Cardiff Castle
Castle St. Tel 029-2087 8100. Open e Caernarfon
daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25–26. & 8 Gwynedd. * 10,000. @ n Castle St
- 7 limited. ∑ cardiffcastle.com
(01286-672 232). ( Sat.
One of the most famous castles

w Snowdonia in Wales looms over this busy
Gwynedd. £ Betws-y-Coed. town, created after Edward I’s
n Station Road, Barmouth defeat of the last native Welsh
(01341-280 787). prince, Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, in
1283. The town walls merge
Cardiff Castle’s clock tower, a 19th-century The scenery of Snowdonia with modern streets that spread
addition by architect William Burges National Park ranges from beyond the medieval center
rugged mountain country to and open into a market square.
q Cardiff moors and beaches. The area is Caernarfon Castle was built as
Glamorgan. * 310,000. k £ @ well known as a destination for a seat of government for North
n The Hayes (029-2087 3573). _ hikers, and villages such as Wales. A UNESCO World Heritage
Cardiff Festival (Jul/Aug). Betws-y-Coed and Llanberis site, it contains several interesting
are busy hill-walking centers. displays, including the Royal
Cardiff was first occupied by the The main focus of this vast Welsh Fusiliers Museum and an
Romans, who built a fort here in area is Snowdon, which at exhibition tracing the history of
AD 75. In the 1830s, the town 1,085 m (3,560 ft) is the highest the Princes of Wales.
began to develop as a port, and peak in Wales. Hikers wishing to On the hill above the town
by 1913 it was the world’s explore Snowdonia’s peaks are the ruins of Segontium, a
leading coal exporter. should be wary of sudden Roman fort built around AD 78.
Confirmed as the Welsh capital weather changes. In summer,
in 1955, it is now devoted to less intrepid visitors can take the + Caernarfon Castle
commerce and administration. Snowdon Mountain Railway from Y Maes. Tel 01286-677 617. Open daily.
Cardiff Castle began as a Llanberis to Snowdon’s summit. Closed Jan 1, Dec 24–26. & 8
Roman fort. It was renovated in
the 19th century by William
Burges, who created an ornate
mansion rich in medieval
images and romantic detail.
Cardiff’s civic center is set
around Alexandra Gardens. The
Neoclassical City Hall (1905) is
dominated by its huge dome
and clock tower. Up on the first
floor, the Marble Hall is flush
with fine statues of prominent
Welsh figures.
To the south of the center, the
docklands have been trans-
formed by the creation of a Caernarfon Castle, one of the forbidding fortresses built by Edward I
9 Street by Street: Bath

Bath owes its magnificent Georgian townscape The Circus
to the bubbling pool of water at the heart of the This is a daring departure
from the typical Georgian
Roman baths. The Romans transformed Bath square, by John Wood the
into England’s first spa resort and it regained Elder (1704–54).
fame as a spa town in the 18th century. At this
time, the two brilliant John Woods (Elder and
Younger) designed the city’s fine Palladian-style
buildings. Today, the traffic-free heart of this
lively town is full of street
musicians, museums,
and enticing shops.
E T
L CRESC RE
YA EN ST
T
E T
RO
E NN
T
B R O C K
S T R E E T
S
U
HE CIRC
T
No. 1 Royal Crescent

is a museum which
provides a glimpse of
GA
18th-century aristocratic life.

Y
GE
OR
ST
No. 17 is where GE
RE
the 18th-century
painter Thomas
E T
Gainsborough lived.
Assembly Rooms and

Fashion Museum
N
EE
QU
RE
Milsom Street and UA
BA
SQ
. Royal Crescent New Bond Street
RT
Hailed as the most majestic street in Britain, this contain some of Bath’s
ON
graceful arc of 30 houses (1769–75) is the most elegant shops.

masterpiece of John Wood the Younger. West
ST
of the Royal Crescent, Royal Victoria Park (1830) is SQ

RE
the city’s largest open space. RT

U FO
BEA
E T
Jane Austen
(1775–1817), the writer,
lived in various houses
during the five years she
spent in Bath. A center
Key 0 meters 100 devoted to the author
Suggested route 0 yards 100 is located on Gay Street.
Theatre Royal (1805)

ENGLAND  79
Avon. * 85,000. k Bristol
Airport, 32 km (20 miles) W. n
The Building of Bath Abbey Chambers, Abbey Church
Collection shows Yard (01225-322 442). ( daily.
how, in the 18th _ International Music Festival
century, the city was (May). Roman Baths Museum:
transformed from a Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26.
medieval wool town & 7 limited. 0 =
Pulteney Bridge
into one of Europe’s This charming bridge (1769–74), Transport
most elegant spas. designed by Robert Adam, is lined with £ Dorchester St. @ Manvers St.
shops and links the center with the
magnificent Great Pulteney Street.
L A
N S
D
O
W
G O N
N
R O
PA R A
A
D
. Roman Baths
Built in the 1st century, this
ET . Bath Abbey
RE bathing complex is one of
ST Britain’s greatest memorials The splendid abbey stands at the
E
heart of the old city in the Abbey
BR
to the Roman era.

Church Yard, a paved piazza
OA
enlivened by buskers. Its unique

D
facade features stone angels

MI
climbing Jacob’s Ladder to heaven.

ST
LS
RE
OM
E T
ST
Parade
Gardens
RE
Courting
E T
couples came
Great to this pretty
Pulteney riverside park
Street for secret
NE
E E T
W S T R liaisons in the
B O N D 18th century.
G
A
R
S
LL V
A
D
H I G
WA O
N
H PA N
UG R
RO
H S
O
UN
B
D
R
PE
E
I O
UP
T R E
Pump Room
N
These tearooms
E T
ST
ANG once formed

RE
E
OR
the social hub of

TR EET
E T
P S the 18th-century
E
A
CHE
V
GRO spa community.

EET They contain this
STR
AT E decorative
STG
WE drinking fountain.
E T
Train RE
ST Sally Lunn’s House (1482) is one
O RK
station Y of Bath’s oldest houses.
The colleges were designed Carfax Tower is all that remains

along the lines of monastic of the 14th-century Church of
buildings, but were surrounded St. Martin, demolished in 1896.
by gardens. Watch the clock strike the
Christ Church, the largest of quarter hours, and climb to
the Oxford colleges, dates from the top for a panoramic view
1525 when Cardinal Wolsey of the city.
founded it as an ecclesiastical The Martyrs’ Memorial
college. It has produced 13 commemorates the three
British prime ministers in the Protestants burned at the stake
last 200 years. Other colleges on Broad Street – Bishops
worth visiting are All Souls, Latimer and Ridley in 1555, and
Magdalen, Merton, Lincoln, Archbishop Cranmer in 1556 –
and Corpus Christi. during the reign of Catholic
The university’s library, Queen Mary.
the Bodleian, was founded St. Mary the Virgin Church
in 1320. One of its most is the official church of
famous rooms is the the university, and is
Divinity School said to be the most
The massive dining hall at Christ Church (1488), which has a visited parish
College, Oxford University beautiful Gothic church in England.
vaulted ceiling. The Two of Oxford’s
r Oxford Baroque rotunda most interesting
Oxfordshire. * 134,000. £ @ n named the Radc museums adjoin
15–16 Broad St (01865-686 430). liffe Camera (1748) each other. The
( Wed, Thu. _ St. Giles Fair (Sep). is a reading room. University
Oxford is more Museum of
Oxford has long been a strategic than just a uni- Natural History
point on the western routes into versity town and Radcliffe Camera, Bodleian contains fossils
London – its name describes there is a wealth of Library, Oxford of dinosaurs as
its position as a convenient spot interesting sights well as the
for crossing the river (a ford aside from the colleges. remains of a dodo. The Pitt
for oxen). One of the best British Rivers Museum has one of the
English students expelled museums outside London, world’s most extensive ethno-
from Paris founded the university the Ashmolean Museum was graphic collections – including
in 1167. The development of opened in 1683. The museum’s masks and tribal totems from
England’s first university created exceptional art collection Africa and the Far East – and
the spectacular skyline of tall includes works by Bellini, archaeological displays.
towers and “dreaming spires.” Raphael, Turner, Rembrandt, Completed in 1669, the
Many of the 38 colleges that Michelangelo, Picasso, and a Sheldonian Theatre was the
make up Oxford University large group of Pre-Raphaelites. first building designed by
were founded between the There is also the Alfred Jewel, Christopher Wren and was built
13th and 16th centuries and an Anglo-Saxon artifact that is as a place to hold university
cluster around the city center. more than 1,000 years old. degree ceremonies. The ceiling
depicts the triumph of religion,
art, and science over envy,
hatred, and malice.
E Ashmolean Museum
Beaumont St. Tel 01865-278 002.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & bank
holiday Mon. Closed Dec 24–26.
8 Tue, Fri, Sat. 7
E University Museum and

Pitt Rivers Museum
Parks Rd. Tel 01865-272 950/270 927.
Open University: 10am–5pm daily;
Pitt Rivers: 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sat,
noon–4:30pm Sun. Closed Easter, Dec
24–26. 7 limited.
t Blenheim Palace
The Great Quadrangle of All Souls College, Oxford University See pp82–3.

ENGLAND  81
y Stratford-upon- from Oxford University after

Avon academic and religious
disputes, they came here.
Warwickshire. * 22,000. £ @ n
Student life dominates the
Bridge Foot (01789-264 293). ( Fri.
_ Shakespeare’s Birthday (late Apr).
city, but it is also a thriving
market center serving a rich
Situated on the west bank agricultural region.
of the River Avon, Stratford- Cambridge University has
upon-Avon attracts hordes 31 colleges, the oldest being
of tourists eager to see Peterhouse (1284) and the
buildings connected with newest Robinson (1979). Many
William Shakespeare, born here of the older colleges have
in 1564. The town is also the peaceful gardens backing
provincial home of the Royal onto the River Cam, which are
Shakespeare Company, whose known as “Backs.” An enjoyable
performances are staged at the way to view these is to rent a The awe-inspiring choir of King’s College
Royal Shakespeare Theatre. punt (a long narrow boat Chapel, Cambridge
The High Street turns into propelled using a pole) from
Chapel Street, the site of New one of the boatyards along in term time, but today the
Place. Shakespeare died here in the river – with a “chauffeur,” choir also gives concerts all
1616, and it is now a herb if required. The layout of the over the world.
garden. The play- older colleges, as St. John’s College, whose
wright is buried at at Oxford, derives alumni include the Romantic
Holy Trinity Church. from their early poet William Wordsworth,
Bought for the nation connections with spans the Cam and boasts one
in 1847, Shakes- religious institutions, of the town’s most beautiful
peare’s Birthplace although few bridges. Known as the Bridge
was restored to its escaped heavy- of Sighs, it was named after its
Elizabethan style. It is handed alterations Venetian counterpart.
regarded by many as in the Victorian era. One of Britain’s oldest public
a shrine to the great Henry VI founded museums, the Fitzwilliam
man, who lived here King’s College in Museum has works of
for many years, and 1441. Work on the exceptional quality and rarity,
offers a fascinating Shakespeare monument at chapel – one of the especially antiquities, ceramics,
insight into his life. Holy Trinity Church, Stratford most important paintings, and manuscripts. These
Another Stratford examples of late- include paintings by Titian and
native, John Harvard, emigrated medieval English architecture – the 17th-century Dutch masters,
to America and in 1638 left his began five years later, and took an impressive collection of works
estate to a new college, later 90 years to complete. Henry by the French Impressionists, and
renamed Harvard University. himself decided that the building most of the important British
Harvard House displays should dominate the city and artists of the past 300 years.
family mementos. gave specific instructions about
No tour of Stratford would be its dimensions. He also stipulated E Fitzwilliam Museum
complete without a visit to Anne that a choir of six lay clerks and Trumpington St. Tel 01223-332 900.
Hathaway’s Cottage. Before her 16 boy choristers – educated at Open Tue–Sun & public hols.
marriage to Shakespeare, Anne the College school – should sing Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec 24–26, 31.
lived here, 1.5 km (1 mile) from daily at services. This still happens & donation. 7 limited.
the town. Despite fire damage,
the cottage is still impressive,
with some original 16th-
century furniture.
u Cambridge
Cambridgeshire. * 120,000. £ @
n Peas Hill (0871-226 8006). ( daily.
_ Folk Festival (July).
Cambridge has been an

important town since Roman
times, being located at the first
navigable point on the River
Cam. When, in 1209, a group of
religious scholars broke away Bridge of Sighs, St. John’s College, Cambridge University
t Blenheim Palace
After John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, defeated
the French at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704, Queen Anne
gave him the manor of Woodstock and had this palatial house
built for him in gratitude. Designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor
and Sir John Vanbrugh, it is one of the country’s most
outstanding examples of English Baroque. The magnificent
palace grounds, at the center of which is a huge lake, owe
their present appearance to the great 18th-century landscape
designer, Lancelot (Capability) Brown. Blenheim Palace was
the birthplace, in 1874, of the wartime British prime minister,
Winston Churchill. Today, the palace is the home of the 11th . Long Library
Duke and Duchess of Marlborough. This 55 m (183 ft) long room
was designed by Vanbrugh as
a picture gallery. The stucco
work on the ceiling is by Isaac
Mansfield (1725).
KEY
1 The Grand Bridge was built in 5 East Gate

1708. It has a 31 m (101 ft) main
6 Red Drawing Room
span and contains rooms within
its structure. 7 The Green Drawing Room has a
full-length portrait of the 4th Duke of
2 The Chapel holds a marble
. Water Terrace Gardens Marlborough by George Romney
monument to the 1st Duke of
These splendid gardens (1734–1802).
Marlborough, sculpted in 1733.
were laid out in the 1920s 8 The Italian Garden contains the
by French architect Achille 3 The lion sculptures (1709),
Mermaid Fountain, dating from the
Duchêne in 17th-century which overlook the Great Court,
late 19th century.
style, with detailed are by Grinling Gibbons.
patterned beds and 4 The Untold Story exhibition
fountains.
ENGLAND  83
Great Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The hall’s magnificent
ceiling, painted by Sir James Practical Information
Thornhill in 1716, shows Woodstock, Oxfordshire.
Marlborough presenting Tel 0800-849 6500.
his plan for the Battle of Palace & Gardens: Open mid-
Blenheim to Britannia. Feb–Dec 10:30am-5:30pm daily.
& 8 7 limited. Park: Open
9am–6pm (or dusk) daily.
∑ blenheimpalace.com
Transport
£ Oxford, then bus.
Other Notable
Stately Homes
Burghley House:
Lincolnshire. Tel 01780-752 451.
Open mid-Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm
daily. & 0 7 Built by Queen
Elizabeth I’s adviser, William Cecil,
1st Lord Burghley (1520–98).
Entrance Castle Howard:
Yorkshire. Tel 01653-648 333.
Open mid-Mar–Oct, end
Nov–mid-Dec: daily. & 0 8
7 Baroque mansion (1699–
1712) by John Vanbrugh and
Nicholas Hawksmoor.
Chatsworth House:
Derbyshire. Tel 01246-582 204.
Open 11am–5:30pm daily.
& = 0 7 limited.
Splendid Baroque palace built
in 1687–1707 by the 4th Earl
of Devonshire.
Hardwick Hall:
Derbyshire. Tel 01246-850 430.
. Saloon Open Apr–Oct: Wed–Sun. &
The murals and painted = 0 7 limited. Fine Tudor
ceiling of the state dining mansion begun in 1591 by
room are by French artist Bess of Hardwick, Countess
Louis Laguerre (1663–1721). of Shrewsbury.
The room is used once a
year on Christmas Day. Transport
Burghley House: £ Stamford
Castle Howard: £ York, then bus
Chatsworth House and Hardwick
Hall: £ Chesterfield.
Eighteenth-century Gardens
Styles of gardening in Britain expanded alongside architecture and other
fashions. The 18th century brought a taste for large-scale “natural” landscapes,
characterized by woods, lakes, and a seeming lack of boundaries. The pioneer
of this new style was the famous landscape designer Lancelot (Capability)
Brown (1715–83). His nickname came from his habit of telling clients that
their land had “great capabilities.” In 1764, he re-landscaped the grounds of
Blenheim Palace, creating the magnificent, huge lake. Today, his reputation
Capability Brown is controversial, because in creating his idyllic landscapes he swept away
(1715–83) many of the beautiful formal gardens previously in vogue.

o Liverpool early Italian and Flemish works

to 20th-century art.
Liverpool. * 450,000. k 11 km
(7 miles) SE. g £ @ n Albert
Liverpool’s Gothic-style
Dock (0151-233 2008). ( Sun. Anglican Cathedral, completed
∑ visitliverpool.com in 1978 by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott,
is the world’s largest. The Roman
During the 17th and 18th Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral
centuries, Liverpool’s westerly of Christ the King (1962–7)
seaboard gave it a leading role is a striking circular building
Detail of a carving on the facade of Bishop in the Caribbean slave trade. surmounted by a stylized crown
Lloyd’s House, Chester After the city’s first ocean of thorns 88 m (290 ft) high.
steamer set sail from here in
i Chester 1840, would-be emigrants to E Tate Liverpool
the New World poured into Albert Dock. Tel 0151-702 7400.
Cheshire. * 125,000. £ @
n Town Hall, Northgate St the city, including a large Open daily. Closed Good Friday,
number of Irish refugees Dec 24–26. 8 7
(0845-647 7868). ( Mon–Sat.
of the potato famine. E The Walker
First settled by the Romans in Liverpool’s waterfront is William Brown St. Tel 0151-478 4199.
AD 79, the main streets of overlooked by the well-known Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 24 (from
Chester are now lined with Royal Liver Building. The 19th- 2pm), Dec 25 & 26. 8 by appt. 7
timber buildings, many dating century warehouses around
from the 13th and 14th Albert Dock have been
centuries. These are the redeveloped as museums, p Manchester
Chester Rows, which, with galleries, restaurants, and Manchester. * 2.5 million. k 18 km
their two tiers of stores and shops. Among these, the (11 miles) S. £ @ n Piccadilly
continuous upper gallery, Maritime Museum and Plaza, Portland Street (0871-222 8223).
anticipate today’s multistory Tate Liverpool, which ( daily.
shops by several centuries. houses one of the
Their oriel windows and best collections of Manchester is famous as a
decorative timber-work contemporary art pioneer of the industrial age,
are mostly 19th century. in England outside with its cotton-spinning
The facade of the of London, are well machines and early railways.
16th-century Bishop worth visiting. Among the city’s many fine
Lloyd’s House on Liverpool is famous 19th-century buildings are the
Watergate Street is as the home town Neo-Gothic cathedral, the Royal
the most richly carved of the phenomenally Exchange, now a theater and
in Chester. The Rows successful Beatles. restaurant, and the Free Trade
are at their most The Beatles Story Hall, now the Radisson Edwardian
attractive where is a walk-through Hotel, with only the original
Eastgate Street Clock tower of the Royal Liver exhibition which facade remaining. The Manch
meets Bridge Street. Building, Liverpool charts their ester Ship Canal, opened in 1894,
A town crier calls meteoric rise is a magnificent engineering feat.
the hour and announces to fame in the 1960s. The Museum of Science and
news from the Cross – a One of the most prestigious Industry in Manchester captures
reconstruction of a 15th-century art galleries in the city is The the city’s spirit of industrial might
stone crucifix. South of here, the Walker. Paintings range from with a display of working steam
Grosvenor Museum explains
Chester’s history. To the north is
the cathedral. The choir stalls
have splendid misericords and
delicate spirelets on the
canopies. The cathedral is
surrounded on two sides by
high city walls, originally
Roman, but rebuilt at intervals.
Also worth seeing is the
Roman amphitheater just
outside town, built in AD 100.
E Grosvenor Museum
Grosvenor St. Tel 01244-972 197.
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec 24–26.
7 limited. 8 Modern city blocks on the banks of the Manchester Ship Canal
ENGLAND  85
(1774–1843) and Wordsworth.

To the east of the town lies the
ancient stone circle of Castlerigg.
North of Keswick is Skiddaw,
England’s fourthhighest peak
and a straightforward climb for
anyone reasonably fit.
d Durham
County Durham. £ @
n 0300026 26 26. ( Sat.
Lush, green fields below the Skiddaw fells in the Lake District
Durham was built on a rocky
engines and an exhibition on the 18thcentury Abbot Hall. peninsula in 995. The site was
the Liverpool and Manchester The nearest lake to Kendal is chosen as the last resting place
Railway. Another museum of Windermere, which is more for the remains of St. Cuthbert.
note is the Whitworth Art than 16 km (10 miles) The relics of the Venerable Bede
Gallery, with its splendid long. A yearround were brought here 27 years
collection of contem car ferry connects later, adding to the town’s
porary art, textiles, and the lake’s east and attraction to pilgrims.
prints. The Turner water west shores, and Durham’s cathedral, built
colors are a highlight. summer steamers between 1093 and 1274, is a
Housed in a 19th link the main towns striking Norman structure. The
century porticoed on the northsouth vast dimensions of the ancient
building, the City Art axis. Among these, columns, piers, and vaults, and
Galleries contain an one of the most popular the lozenge, chevron, and
excellent selection of is Bowness, where the dogtooth patterns carved into
British art, as well as Windermere Steam them, are its main innovative
early Italian, Flemish, The Lakeland poet boat Museum has a features. The exotic Galilee
and French paintings. William Wordsworth collection of superbly Chapel, begun in 1170, was
restored watercraft. inspired by the mosque at
E Whitworth Art Gallery Ambleside, another attractive Córdoba, Spain (see pp316–17).
University of Manchester, Oxford Rd. lakeside town, is a good base for The Norman castle, begun
Tel 0161275 7450. Open 10am–5pm walkers and climbers. Nearby is in 1072, served as an Episcopal
daily (to 9pm Thu). 7 - Hill Top, the 17thcentury Palace until 1832, when Bishop
∑ whitworth.manchester.ac.uk farmhouse where the author William van Mildert gave it away
Beatrix Potter wrote many of her to found Britain’s third university
famous children’s stories. here. In the castle grounds,
a York
The Lake District’s most Tunstal’s Chapel was built around
See pp86–7. famous son, the Romantic poet 1542 and has some particularly
William Wordsworth (1770– fine woodwork, including a
1850), lived for a while at unicorn misericord. The castle
s Lake District Grasmere, on the shores of the keep, sited on a mound, is now
Cumbria. £ Kendal; Windermere. lake of the same name, north of part of the university.
@ Kendal; Keswick; Windermere. Ambleside. His home, Dove
n Made in Cumbria, 48a Branthwaite Cottage, contains a museum + Durham Castle
Brow, Kendal (01539735 891); dedicated to his life. Tel 0191334 2932. Open for guided
Moot Hall, Market Sq, Keswick To the west of Windermere lie tours only. Term time: daily (pm);
(01768772 645). Coniston Water and picturesque university hols: most days (am & pm);
Duddon Valley, popular call ahead for special closures. 8
The Lake District boasts some of walking country.
the country’s most spectacular In the northern part
scenery, with high peaks, lonely of the Lake District,
fells, and beautiful lakes. The Keswick, with its lake,
area constitutes Britain’s largest Derwent Water, has
national park and offers a range been a busy vacation
of outdoor activities, from hill destination since
walking to boating. Victorian days. The
Kendal is the southern Keswick Museum
gateway to the Lake District. Of and Art Gallery holds
interest here is the Museum of original manuscripts of
Lakeland Life and Industry, Lakeland writers, such Moorish-style arches in the 12th-century Galilee
housed in the stable block of as Robert Southey Chapel, Durham Cathedral
a Street by Street: York York’s medieval city walls still

The city of York has retained so much of its medieval encircle the old city. It is possible
structure that walking into its center is like entering a to walk round them, although
there are large gaps. The gates
living museum. Many of the ancient timbered houses, are known as “bars.”
which overhang narrow, winding streets such as the
Shambles, are protected by a conservation order. At Monk Bar, the
Cars are banned from the center, so there are always gatehouse retains a
student bikes bouncing over cobbled streets. working portcullis.
The chief glory of York is its cathedral, the Minster.
The city also has 18 medieval churches, 5 km
(3 miles) of medieval city walls, and many
GO
elegant Jacobean and Georgian buildings.
OD
. York Minster
RAM
YA R D
The 15th-century
choir screen is lined
GA
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with statues of the kings ST
IN
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of England, from William I M
to Henry VI. E
D E A N G AT
Thirsk
HIGH PETE R G AT E L O W P E T E R
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St. Mary’s Abbey
RE
MUSEUM STREET
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The Yorkshire PA R
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Museum contains LIA

a fine collection of
STR
fossils, discovered LENDAL

at Whitby in the CO
NE
19th century. Y
ST
RE
ET
SPU
RR IERG
ATE
Lendal Bridge
Train station, bus
station, National OU
G
SE
BD
Railway Museum,
SE
and Leeds
OU
In Coffee Yard,
look out for the
Ye Old Starre carved figure of
Inne is one of a red devil, relic
the oldest pubs of a medieval
in York. print shop.
Guildhall
This two-headed
medieval roof boss is
on the 15th-century
St. Olave’s Church Guildhall, situated
The 11th-century church, next to the gatehouse beside the River Ouse
of St. Mary’s Abbey, was founded by the Earl of and restored after
Northumbria in memory of St. Olaf, King of bomb damage during
Norway. To the left is the Chapel of St. Mary World War II.
on the Walls.

ENGLAND  87
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Exploring York

To the Romans, the city of York
Practical Information was Eboracum, to the Saxons it
* 120,000. n 1 Museum St was Eoforwic, and to the Vikings
(01904-550 099). ( daily. Jorvik. Danish street names are a
_ Jorvik Festival (Feb); St. reminder that from 867, York was
Nicholas Fair (Nov). York Minster: a major Viking settlement.
Deangate. Tel 01904-557 216. Jorvik Viking Center, the Viking
Open daily. Jorvik Viking Center: museum, is built underground
Coppergate Walk. Tel 01904-543 on an archaeological site
400. Open daily. Closed Dec 25. excavated at Coppergate. The
∑ visityork.org latest technology brings the
Transport sights and smells of 10th-century
£ @ Station Rd. York dramatically to life.
Between 1100 and 1500, York
was England’s second city.
. Jorvik Viking Center Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate York Minster, the largest Gothic
The many artifacts on show is York’s tiniest street. The church in northern Europe,
here explore the time name means “neither one was begun in 1220. It has a
when York was a strategic thing nor the other street.”
Viking town. remarkable collection of medieval
stained glass. The vast Great East
Merchant Adventurers’ Hall
Window (1405–8) depicts the
Creation. In 1984, a disastrous fire
in the south transept destroyed
ATE
the roof and shattered its

URG
CO L L I E R G magnificent rose window.

VIO
AT O This has since been restored.

EB
SA
E
ON Much of York’s wealth in
ST
ST
TH
TH the late Middle Ages came
E
E
SH
AM FO from the cloth trade. The
BL SS
ES GA Merchant Adventurers’ Hall,
TE the headquarters of a powerful
MENT
guild of traders, is a beautifully

preserved timber-framed
PAV E
ME . York Castle Museum building that dates from

NT
ST PICC Converted from two 18th-century the mid-14th century.
ADI
L LY prisons, the museum features
In the 19th century, York’s
reconstructions of old York and the
AT E
TE
position on the route to

GA
cell of the notorious highwayman

Scotland made it a major rail
ERG
SE
Dick Turpin (1706–39).

center. Train enthusiasts should
OU
PP
head for the National Railway

GH
CO
Museum, the largest of its kind

HI
CAS
TLE in the world, where the rolling
G AT
E
stock on show includes Queen
CL
IF Victoria’s royal carriage.
FO
RD
ST E National Railway Museum
TOWE
RE Leeman Rd. Tel 08448-153 139.

ET
R St. Mary’s Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26. 7
ST
RE Church
ET
Clifford’s Tower
Hull (c.1250)
0 meters 100
Key
0 yards 100
The square central tower of York Minster,
Suggested route rising above the city
Scotland highlights here include dinosaur

skeletons, Egyptian artifacts
Scotland’s landscape is breathtaking, with sparkling lochs, and a real spitfire suspended
awesome mountains, and windswept isles. The ruggedness in the main hall.
of its climate and natural environment has helped to forge The Hunterian Art Gallery
houses Scotland’s largest print
a tough, self-reliant nation, whose history has been
collection and paintings by major
characterized by resistance to English domination. Castles, European artists from the 16th
many in ruins, are found all over the country – a legacy of century to the present. A display
its turbulent past. Culturally, Edinburgh has always been of works by Glasgow’s most cele-
the country’s chief attraction, but the rival city of Glasgow brated designer, Charles Rennie
has much to offer too, with many great free attractions. Mackintosh (1868–1928), is supp-
lemented by a reconstruction of
No. 6 Florentine Terrace, where
modern Glasgow, renowned for he lived from 1906 to 1914.
its free galleries and museums. South of the river, Pollok
The deprived East End stands Country Park is the site of the
side by side with the restored Burrell Collection, star of
18th-century Merchant City Glasgow’s renaissance.
and Victorian George Square. Highlights include examples
Glasgow’s cathedral was one of 15th-century stained glass
of the few to escape destruction and tapestries, a bronze bull’s
during the Scottish Reformation, head (7th century BC) from
and is a rare example of an Turkey, Matthijs Maris’ The Sisters
almost complete 13th-century (1875), and a self-portrait by
church. The crypt holds the tomb Rembrandt (1632). On the same
of St. Mungo. In the cathedral site, Pollok House is an attractive
precinct, the St. Mungo Museum Georgian building. It holds one
of Religious Life and Art is the of Britain’s best collections of
first of its kind in the world, 16th- to 19th-century Spanish
The imposing City Chambers in George illustrating religious paintings.
Square, Glasgow themes with a Other sights
superb range worth visiting are
f Edinburgh of artifacts. the Tenement
It is in the more House, a modest
See pp90–94.
affluent West End, apartment in a
where merchants tenement block
g Glasgow used to retreat from preserved from
industrial Clydeside, Stained glass by Charles Rennie Edwardian times,
* 593,000. k £ @ n 10
that Glasgow’s most Mackintosh and Provand’s
Sauchiehall St (0845-859 1006).
( Sat, Sun. _ Jazz Festival (Jun). important galleries Lordship (1471),
∑ peoplemakeglasgow.com and museums can be found. The the city’s oldest-surviving house.
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and The House for an Art Lover is a
Glasgow’s era of great prosperity Museum, housed in a striking showcase for the work of
was the industrial 19th century. red sandstone building dating Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
Coal seams in Lanarkshire fueled from 1901, is home to a splendid For a social history of the city
the city’s cotton mills and collection of art, with works by from the 12th to the 20th
ironworks, belying its Celtic Botticelli, Giorgione, Rembrandt, century, visit the People’s
name, Glas cu, meaning “dear Degas, Millet, and Monet, while Palace, a cultural museum
green place.” Relics of this the Scottish Gallery contains the located in the city’s East End.
manufacturing past contrast famous Massacre of Glencoe by
starkly with the glossy image of James Hamilton (1853–94). Other E Kelvingrove Art Gallery and
Museum
Argyle St, Kelvingrove. Tel 0141-276
9599. Open daily. Closed Jan 1–2,
Dec 25–26. 8 7
E Hunterian Art Gallery
82 Hillhead St. Tel 0141-330 4221.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Dec 24–Jan 5
& public hols. 7 restricted.
E Burrell Collection
Pollok Country Park. Tel 0141-287
2550. Open daily. Closed Jan 1–2,
The Burrell Collection in Pollok Country Park on Glasgow’s outskirts Dec 25–26 & 31. 8 7 - =

SCOTLAND  89
k Aberdeen
* 220,000. k 13 km (8 miles) NW.
£ @ n 23 Union St (01224-269
180). ( Thu, Fri, Sat.
Europe’s offshore oil capital,

Aberdeen is also one of Britain’s
most important fishing ports,
and hosts Scotland’s largest
fish market.
Among its fine buildings is the
The 15th-century Stirling Castle, atop its rocky crag 16th-century home of a former
provost (mayor) of the city. Period
h Stirling St. Andrew’s Castle was built rooms inside Provost Skene’s
for the bishops of the town House span 200 years of design
* 90,000. £ @ n Old Town Jail,
in 1200. and include the 17th-century
St. John St (01786-475 019).
∑ visitscotland.com The Royal and Ancient Golf Great Hall, a Regency Room,
Club, founded in 1754, has a and a Georgian Dining Room.
Located between the Ochil Hills magnificent links course and is The Painted Gallery holds one
and the Campsie Fells, Stirling the ruling arbiter of the game. of Scotland’s most important
grew up around its castle,, one The city has other golf courses, cycles of religious art, dating
of the finest examples of which are open to the public from the 17th century.
Renaissance architecture in the for a modest fee. These include Founded in 1495, King’s
country. Dating from the 15th the Old Course, which regularly College was the city’s first
century, it was last defended – hosts the British Open. St. university. The chapel has
against the Jacobites – in 1746, Andrews is also home to the stained-glass windows by
and stands within sight of no British Golf Museum. Douglas Strachan.
fewer than seven battlefields. St. Andrew’s Cathedral
One of these – Bannockburn – E British Golf Museum is the Mother Church of the
was where Robert the Bruce Bruce Embankment. Tel 01334-460 Episcopal Communion in the
defeated the English in 1314. 046. Open 9:30am–5pm daily (Nov– United States. Coats of arms
Stirling’s Old Town is still Mar: 10am–4pm daily). & 7 = on the ceiling depict the
protected by the original American states.
16th-century walls, built to keep Housed in a
out Henry VIII. Two buildings historic building
stand out among a number overlooking the
of historic monuments in the harbor, Aberdeen
town: the medieval Church of Maritime Museum
the Holy Rude and Mar’s Wark, traces the city’s long
with its ornate facade. seafaring tradition.
+ Stirling Castle P Provost Skene’s

Castle Wynd. Tel 01786-450 000. House
Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. Guestrow. Tel 01224-
& 8 7 limited. - = 641 086. Open Mon–
An old railroad poster illustrating the lure of Sat. Closed Jan 1–2, Dec
St. Andrews for golfing enthusiasts 25–31. ∑ aagm.co.uk
j St. Andrews
Fife. * 17,000. £ Leuchars. @ Golf
n 70 Market St (01224 472 021).
∑ visitstandrews.com Scotland’s national game was pioneered on the sandy links around St.
Andrews. The earliest record dates from 1457, when golf was banned
Scotland’s oldest university by James II on the grounds
town and one-time ecclesias- that it was interfering with his
tical capital, St. Andrews is now subjects’ archery practice.
a shrine for golfers from all over Mary, Queen of Scots
the world. Its main streets and enjoyed the game and was
cobbled alleys, lined with berated in 1568 for playing
straight after the murder
university buildings and
of her husband Darnley.
medieval churches, converge
Scotland has several other
on the ruined 12th-century world-class golf courses,
cathedral. Once the largest in including Royal Troon, Victorian engraving of Mary,
Scotland, it was later pillaged Gleneagles, and Carnoustie. Queen of Scots at St. Andrews
for stones to build the town.
f Edinburgh
It was not until the reign of James IV (1488–1513) that
Edinburgh gained its status as Scotland’s capital.
Overcrowding made the Old Town a difficult place to live,
and led to the construction of a Georgian New Town in
the late 1700s. Today, Edinburgh is second only to London
as a financial center in the British Isles, and houses the
new Scottish Parliament building, situated next to the old
Palace of Holyroodhouse. Edinburgh hosts a celebrated
annual International Festival every August. One of the
world’s premier arts jamborees, it features drama, dance,
opera, music, and ballet. The more eclectic “Fringe” View of Princes Street from the top
developed in parallel with the official event, but has of Calton Hill
now exceeded it in terms of size. It is estimated that the EET
STR St Paul
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population of the city doubles from 400,000 to 800,000 OMBY PLACE
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Getting Around
Central Edinburgh is compact, so walking or cycling is
an excellent way to explore the city. Other options
include tram system and a comprehensive bus service.
Avoid exploring the center by car, because the streets
tend to be congested with traffic, and parking may be
difficult. Car use is actively discouraged.
EDINBURGH  91
Sights at a Glance
1 Edinburgh Castle
2 New Town
3 Royal Mile
4 National Gallery of Scotland
5 Greyfriars Kirk
6 National Museum of Scotland
7 Scottish National Portrait Gallery
8 Calton Hill
9 Palace of Holyroodhouse
An audience of thousands at the Military Tattoo at Edinburgh Castle,

held during August each year
H I L L S I D E C RE S C E N T
ST
F OR
TH LO ND O N ROAD
LK
WA
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St H
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George M P L
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Playhouse
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Theatre
GR
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St. Mary's
Cathedral CALTON REGENT
D HIL
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HILL GARDENS A Y
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ABB
St. James AC
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Shopping R R
City National ER
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EN
Observatory Monument NT
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Nelson
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Burial Governor's Burns

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Entrance to the Fringe information office,

located on the Royal Mile

The battlements of Edinburgh Castle rising above Princes Street Gardens
1 Edinburgh Castle Other important buildings The most magnificent of the

Castle Hill. Tel 0131-225 9846.
include the 15th-century later developments is the Moray
Open summer: 9:30am–6pm daily; Great Hall, meeting place of Estate where a linked series of
winter: 9:30am–5pm daily. the Scottish parliament until large houses forms a crescent, an
Closed Dec 25 & 26. & 8 7 1639, and the Governor’s oval, and a twelve-sided circus.
∑ edinburghcastle.gov.uk House (1742). A 15th-century
Burgundian siege gun, known P Georgian House
Standing on the basalt core of as Mons Meg, is kept in the 7 Charlotte Sq. Tel 0844-493 2117.
an extinct volcano, the castle is vaults, where French graffiti Open Mar–Dec: daily. & 7 limited.
an assemblage of buildings recall the prisoners held here
dating from the 12th to the in the 18th- and 19th-century
20th centuries, reflecting its wars. The One o’ Clock Gun is 3 Royal Mile
changing role as fortress, palace, still fired at 1pm daily.
military garrison, and state Composed of four ancient
prison. The castle was a favorite streets which formed the main
royal residence until the Union 2 New Town thoroughfare of medieval
of 1603, after which monarchs Edinburgh, the Royal Mile linked
resided in England. The first phase of the “New the castle to the Palace of
The Scottish regalia are Town,” to the north of Princes Holyroodhouse. A walk starting
displayed in the 15th-century Street, was built in the 18th from the castle takes you past
palace where Mary, Queen of century to relieve the many of the city’s oldest
Scots gave birth to James VI. The congested and unsanitary buildings and a number of
castle also holds the Stone of conditions of the Old Town. interesting museums.
Destiny, a relic of ancient Scottish Charlotte Square, with its l The lower floors of the Tartan
kings seized by the English, and avish town houses, was the Weaving Mill & Exhibition date
returned in 1996. The castle’s climax of this phase. On the from the early 1600s and were
oldest existing building is the north side, the Georgian once the home of the Laird of
12th-century St. Margaret’s House, owned by the National Cockpen. The 19th-century
Chapel. A stained-glass window Trust of Scotland, has been Camera Obscura and World of
depicts the queen of Malcolm III, furnished to show the lifestyle Illusions is a popular attraction.
after whom it is named. of its 18th-century residents. A little further on, Gladstone’s
Land is a restored 17th-century
merchant’s house. Another fine
mansion, built in 1622, has been
converted into a Writers’
Museum, housing memorabilia
of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott,
and Robert Louis Stevenson.
St. Giles Cathedral, properly
known as the High Kirk of
Edinburgh, was the base from
which Protestant minister John
Knox led the Scottish
Reformation. His house, also
on the Royal Mile, is open to
the public. The cathedral’s
Charlotte Square in the New Town Thistle Chapel has impressive
EDINBURGH  93
rib-vaulting and 5 Greyfriars Kirk

carved heraldic
Greyfriars Place. Tel 0131-225 1900.
canopies. It honors Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat; Nov–Mar:
the knights of the Thu pm. 8 7
Most Ancient and
Most Noble Order of Greyfriars Kirk played a key
the Thistle. Just past role in Scotland’s history. In
St. Giles, the Italianate 1638, the National Covenant
Parliament House, was signed here, marking
built in the 1630s, has the Protestant stand against
housed the Scottish Charles I’s imposition of an
Courts since the 1707 Thistle Chapel, St. Giles Cathedral, Royal Mile episcopal church. Throughout
Act of Union with the wars of the 17th century,
England and Wales. behind a profusion of statues and the kirkyard was used as a
Farther east, opposite John period furniture. Some of the mass grave for executed
Knox’s House (1450), is the highlights among the Scottish Covenanters.
excellent Museum of Child works are the society portraits by The Martyrs’
hood, while The People’s Story Allan Ramsay and Henry Raeburn, Monument
(1591) tells the social history including the latter’s Reverend is a sobering
of Edinburgh. Robert Walker Skating on reminder of the
Duddingston Loch (c.1800), an many Scots who
P Gladstone’s Land image reproduced annually on lost their lives.
477B Lawnmarket. Tel 0844 493 2120. thousands of Christmas cards. Greyfriars is also
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (Jul– German works include Gerard known for its
Aug: 10am–6:30pm daily). & David’s almost comic-strip association with
treatment of the Three Legends of a faithful dog,
4 National Gallery St. Nicholas, dating from the early Bobby, who
16th century. Italian paintings lived beside
of Scotland include a fine Madonna by his master’s
The Mound. Tel 0131-624 6200. Raphael, as well as works by Titian grave from 1858
Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. 8 and Tintoretto. From Spain there to 1872. Greyfriars Greyfriars
by appt. 7 ∑ nationalgalleries.org is a delightful genre painting of Bobby’s statue Bobby
An Old Woman Cooking Eggs by stands outside
One of Scotland’s finest art Velázquez (c.1620). Greyfriars Kirk.
galleries, the National Gallery An entire room is devoted
of Scotland has an impressive to The Seven Sacraments by
6 National Museum
collection of British and European Nicholas Poussin, dating from
paintings. Designed by William around 1640. Dutch and Flemish of Scotland
Henry Playfair, it was opened in painters represented include Chambers St. Tel 0300-123 6789.
1859. Many of the works of art are Rembrandt, Van Dyck, and Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed Dec
still exhibited as they were in the Rubens, while among the British 25. 8 7 - = ∑ nms.ac.uk
19th century. Serried ranks of offerings are important works
paintings hang on deep red walls by Reynolds and Gainsborough. A great Victorian glass palace,
completed in 1888, houses
the National Museum of
Scotland. It started life as an
industrial museum, but over
time acquired an eclectic array
of more than 20,000 exhibits,
ranging from stuffed animals
to ethnographic artifacts.
In 1993, work began on a site
next door, to display Scotland’s
impressive array of antiquities.
The resulting collection, opened
in 1998, tells the story of the
country, starting with its geology
and natural history, through to
later industrial developments.
Among its many stunning
exhibits is St. Fillan’s Crozier,
said to have been carried at
the head of the Scottish army
An Old Woman Cooking Eggs by Velázquez, National Gallery of Scotland at Bannockburn in 1314.
The view from the top of Calton Hill, Edinburgh
7 Scottish National the structure was started in 1822,

but funds soon ran out and it
remodeled in the 1670s for
Charles II. The Royal Apartments
Portrait Gallery was never finished. Nearby, the (including the Throne Room and
1 Queen St. Tel 0131-624 6200. Open Nelson Monument commem- Royal Dining Room) are used for
10am–5pm daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. orates the British victory at investitures and for banquets. A
7 - = ∑ nationalgalleries.org Trafalgar. The Classical theme chamber in the so-called James
continues with Duncan’s V tower is believed to have
The Portrait Gallery is housed in Monument and the old City been the scene of David Rizzio’s
a red-sandstone, Gothic-revival Observatory, designed by murder in 1566. He was the
building, which was restored William Playfair in 1818 and Italian secretary of Mary, Queen
between 2009 and 2011. It based on the Tower of the Winds of Scots. She witnessed the
owns a wonderful collection of in Athens. The Astronomical grisly act, which was authorized
paintings that details the history Society of Edinburgh arranges by her jealous husband, Lord
of 12 generations of Stuarts, from tours and free lectures here. Darnley. Bonnie Prince Charlie,
the time of Robert the Bruce to last of the Stuart pretenders
Queen Anne. It also houses to the English throne, also
portraits of famous Scots, 9 Palace of held court at Holyrood Palace,
including one of the country’s
best-loved poet Robert Burns
Holyroodhouse in 1745. The Queen’s Gallery
has an interesting program
(1759–96) by Alexander Nasmyth. East end of the Royal Mile. Tel 0131- of art exhibitions.
Others portrayed include Flora 556 5100. Open daily. Closed Dec 25 The adjacent Holyrood Park,
MacDonald, who helped Bonnie & 26. & 7 limited. a former royal hunting ground,
∑ royalcollection.org.uk
Prince Charlie escape after his is home to three lochs, a large
defeat by the English in 1745, number of wildfowl, and the
and Ramsay MacDonald, who Queen Elizabeth II’s official Salisbury Crags. Its high point is
became Britain’s first Labour Scottish residence was built the hill known as Arthur’s Seat,
prime minister in 1924. by James IV in the grounds of an extinct volcano and well-
The building also holds the an abbey in 1498. It was later known Edinburgh landmark.
Scottish National Photography the home of James V and his The name is probably a
collection, which has over wife, Mary of Guise, and was corruption of Archer’s Seat.
30,000 images dating from the
1840s to the present day.
8 Calton Hill
City center east, via Waterloo Pl.
Calton Hill, at the east end of

Princes Street, is a large open
space dotted with Neoclassical
monuments. It has one of
Edinburgh’s more memorable
landmarks – a half-finished
“Parthenon”. Conceived as the
National Monument to the
dead of the Napoleonic Wars, The grand 17th-century facade of Holyrood Palace
SCOTLAND  95
The Highlands
The Scotland of your imagination – filled with clans and tartans,
whisky and porridge, bagpipes and heather – will come to life
in the Highlands. Gaelic-speaking Celts arrived from Ireland
before the 7th century, establishing small fishing and cattle-
raising communities. Nowadays the region has oil and tourist
industries. Inverness, the Highland capital, makes a good
starting point for exploring Loch Ness and the Cairngorms.
The Isle of Skye has some of Britain’s most dramatic scenery.
Inverness Castle, a Victorian Sea lochs on the Isle of Skye, dominated by

building of red sandstone. the Cuillin peaks
Below the castle, the Inverness
Museum and Art Gallery x Isle of Skye
provides a good introduction to * 11,500. g from Mallaig or
the region’s history. Its exhibits Glenelg. @ n Bayfield House,
include a fine collection of Portree (01478-612 137).
Inverness silver. The Scottish
Kiltmaker Visitor Centre offers Skye, the largest of the Inner
an insight into the history, Hebrides, can be reached by the
Snow-covered peaks of the Cairngorms, culture, and tradition of the kilt. bridge linking Kyle of Lochalsh
viewed from Aviemore In summer, Jacobite Cruises and Kyleakin. The coast is shaped
(call 01463-233 999 for by a series of dramatic sea lochs,
l Cairngorms information) runs regular boat while the landscape from the
£ @ Aviemore. n Grampian Rd, trips along the Caledonian Quiraing – a plateau of volcanic
Aviemore (01479-810 930). Canal and on famous Loch towers and spikes in the north –
Ness, southwest of Inverness. to the Cuillins – one of Britain’s
Rising to a height of 1,309 m The Loch is 39 km (24 miles) most spectacular mountain
(4,296 ft), the Cairngorm long and up to 305 m (1,000 ft) ranges – is majestic. Bonnie Prince
mountains form the highest deep. On the western shore, the Charlie (1720–88) escaped here
landmass in Britain. ruins of the 16th-century from the mainland disguised as a
Cairn Gorm itself is the site of Urquhart Castle can be seen. maidservant following the defeat
one of Britain’s first ski centers. The Official Loch Ness of his army at Culloden.
Transportation to the 28 ski runs Exhibition Centre, in nearby Skye’s main settlement is
is provided daily from Avie- Drumnadrochit, provides Portree, with its colorful harbor.
more. The chairlift that climbs information about the Loch Dunvegan Castle, on the
Cairn Gorm affords superb views and its mythical monster. island’s northwest coast, has
over the Spey Valley. Rothie- been the seat of the Clan
murchus Estate has a visitor E Museum and Art Gallery MacLeod chiefs for over seven
center offering guided walks. 1 Castle Wynd. Tel 01463-237 114. centuries. South of here, the
The Cairngorm Reindeer Open Tue–Sat. Closed Jan 1 & 2, Talisker distillery produces one
Centre organizes walks in the Dec 25 & 26. 7 of the best Highland malts.
hills among Britain’s only herd
of reindeer, and ospreys can be
observed at the Loch Garten
Nature Reserve.
Drivers can see bison, bears,
wolves, and boar in the Kincraig
Highland Wildlife Park.
z Inverness
* 60,000. £ @ n Castle Wynd
(01463-252 401).
∑ visitscotland.com
Inverness is the center of

communication, commerce,
and administration for the
Highlands. Dominating the high
ground above the town is The ruins of Urquhart Castle, on the western shore of Loch Ness

and Customs
Colorful pageantry, ancient history, and a varied countryside A valid passport is needed to
attract millions of tourists to Britain each year. Facilities for enter Britain. Visitors from the
visitors have improved considerably in recent years, with European Union (EU), the
major urban centers offering a good variety of restaurants United States, Canada, New
Zealand, and Australia do not
and hotels. The affluent southern region is more expensive require a visa to enter the
than the rest of Britain. Telephone and postal systems are country. Anyone who arrives in
efficient, and violent crime is uncommon. Britain from a member country
of the EU can pass through a
stations, and at some sites of special channel at customs, but
When To Visit historical interest. These random checks are still made to
Britain’s temperate maritime bureaux offer general tourist detect any prohibited goods.
climate does not produce advice and will also reserve When entering from outside
extremes of heat or cold, accommodations. the EU, go through the green
but weather patterns shift Both the regional and customs channel if you have
constantly, and the climate can national tourist boards have nothing to declare, and the red
differ widely in places only a comprehensive lists of local channel if you have goods
short distance apart. The attractions, events, and which exceed allowances.
southeast is generally drier than registered accommodations;
elsewhere. Be sure to pack a mix all these details can be found
of warm and light clothing, and on their excellent websites. Personal Security
an umbrella. Walkers can be More detailed maps and Britain is not a dangerous place
surprised by bad weather. guidebooks can be purchased for visitors, and it is most unlikely
Britain’s towns and cities are from good bookshops. that your stay will be blighted
all-year destinations, but some For route planning, road by crime. Due to past terrorist
attractions open only between atlases and local maps and attacks, there are occasional
Easter and October. Some guidebooks are available in security alerts, notably on the
hotels are crammed at most bookstores. underground, but these are
Christmas and New Year. The mainly false alarms, often due
main family holiday months, to people accidentally leaving
July and August, and public Opening Hours a bag or parcel lying around.
holidays, are always busy. Many businesses and shops are
Spring and fall offer a good closed on Sundays, though
compromise: fewer crowds trading is now legal. Museums Police
and relatively fine weather. and galleries are generally The sight of a traditional British
open from 10am to 5 or 6pm, “bobby” patroling the streets in
with many opening later in the a tall hat is now less common
Tourist Information day on Sundays. Those outside than the police patrol car with
The British Tourist Authority the capital are normally closed flashing lights and sirens.
(BTA) has offices in a number for one day or one afternoon a However, police on foot can
of major cities worldwide. In week. On public holidays, still be found, and are courteous
Britain, tourist information is known as bank holidays in and helpful. If you have
available in many towns and Britain, banks, offices, most anything stolen, you should
public places, including shops, and some restaurants report the theft at the nearest
airports, main train and bus will be closed. police station.
The Climate of
LONDON EDINBURGH
Great Britain
The moderate British climate °C/ºF °C/ºF
rarely sees winter nights colder
than -15 °C (5 °F), even in the far 22/72 18/62
16/60
north, or summer days warmer 13/55 14/58 11/52 11/52 13/56
10/50
than 30 °C (86 °F) in the south. 7/44 7/45
4/39
7/44 16/61
3/38
Despite the country’s reputation, 0/32
annual rainfall is quite low – less 5 6 3.5 1.5 2.5 5.5 3 1.5
than 100 cm (40 in) – and heavy hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
rain is rare. The Atlantic coast, 39 45 50 44 38 70 58 47
warmed by the Gulf Stream, mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
gives the west a warmer, wetter month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
climate than the east.
Emergency Services Facilities for the Disabled bureaux de change, which

In an emergency, dial 999 The facilities on offer for disabled are located in tourist areas
to reach police, fire, and visitors to Britain are improving: and operate longer hours
ambulance services, which are new buildings offer elevators than banks. Exchange rates
on call 24 hours a day. Calls are and ramps for wheelchair access, and commission charges
free. In coastal areas, this and adapted toilets. Many banks, can vary.
number also applies for calls to theaters, and museums provide Although credit cards are
the voluntary coastguard-rescue aids for the visually or hearing widely accepted in Britain,
service. You can also turn up at impaired. Given advance notice, smaller stores, guesthouses,
a hospital emergency room at rail, ferry, and bus personnel will and cafés may not have the
any time. Emergency medical help disabled passengers. The facilities for card transactions.
treatment in a British National Disabled Person’s Railcard Britain uses the “chip and PIN”
Health Service (NHS) emergency provides discounted rail fares. system instead of a signature
room is free, but any kind of Most car rental firms offer hand- on a credit slip. You will need
additional medical care could controled vehicles for rental at a four-digit PIN, so ask your
prove to be very expensive if no extra cost. For more bank for one before you leave.
you don’t have insurance or information, contact Disability
your country does not have Rights UK, DisabledGo,
a reciprocal agreement. Mobility International, Communications
or Tourism For All. Public telephone booths are
available throughout Britain and
Health Issues may be card- or coin-operated.
You can buy a wide range of Banking and Currency In major towns, some booths
medicines from pharmacies, Britain’s currency is the pound are able to accept credit cards
which in Britain are known as sterling (£), which is divided and offer Internet access. It is
chemists. Boots is the best- into 100 pence (p). Scottish cheaper to telephone in the
known chain store. If you are banknotes are also legal tender evenings and at weekends.
likely to need prescription drugs, in England and Wales, but not Post offices are usually open
either bring your own or get your all stores take them. from 9am to 5:30pm Monday
doctor to write out the generic Banking hours vary, but to Friday, and until 12:30pm on
name of the drug (as opposed most are open from 9am to Saturday. Sub-post offices are
to the brand name). Some phar- 5pm, Monday to Friday. Most located in local stores. Stamps
macies are open until midnight, banks cash traveler’s checks, can be purchased from any
while doctors’ offices (known as and have cash machines (ATMs) outlet which displays the sign
surgeries) are normally open that accept most cards. You can “Stamps sold here.” Mail boxes
during the day only. also change money at private are always painted red.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Embassies US Embassy DisabledGo
Information 24 Grosvenor Sq, London Unit 7, Arlington Court,
Australian High
VisitBritain Commission W1. Tel 020-7499 9000. Arlington Business Park,
Australia House, ∑ london.usembassy. Stevenage SG1 2FS.
∑ visitbritain.com
Strand, London WC2. gov
Tel 01438-842 710.
VisitEngland Tel 020-7379 4334.
∑ visitengland.com ∑ disabledgo.com
∑ uk.embassy.gov.au/ Emergencies
lhlh/home.html Numbers Mobility
Regional Tourist
Boards Canadian High Police, Ambulance, International
Commission Coastguard, and Fire North America
London MacDonald House,
services Tel 541-343 1284.
Opposite Platform 8, 1 Grosvenor Square,
Victoria Railway Station, Tel 999. ∑ miusa.org
London W1K.
London SW1 1JU.
Tel 020-7004 6000. Facilities for Tourism For All
∑ visitlondon.com
∑ canadainternational.
the Disabled 7a Pixel Mill,
Scotland gc.ca
44 Appleby Road,
Tel 0845-859 1006.
New Zealand High Disability Rights UK
∑ visitscotland.com Kendal, Cumbria
Commission 49–51 East Rd, London N1.
LA9 6ES.
Wales 80 Haymarket, London Tel 020-7250 8181.
∑ disabilityrightsuk. Tel 0845-124 9971.
Tel 0870-830 0306. SW1. Tel 020-7930 8422.
∑ visitwales.com ∑ nzembassy.com org ∑ tourismforall.org.uk
Travel Information and Victoria stations respectively

at regular intervals. The journey
Since it is an international gateway for air and sea traffic, time is 15 minutes to Heathrow,
Britain poses few problems for those arriving by air. Visitors and 30 minutes to Gatwick.
have a large choice of carriers serving Australasia, Europe, and When traveling by bus, you
must purchase a ticket before
North America. Bus travel is an inexpensive form of trans boarding, or use Oyster or
portation from Europe, while traveling by train is also easy, Contactless. The sightseeing
thanks to the Channel Tunnel. Traveling within Britain itself is buses that drive past London’s
fairly easy. There is an extensive road network reaching all parts historic sights are often run by
of the country. The national rail road network is excellent and private companies and will not
accept bus passes or Travelcards.
services to the smaller towns are good. Bus travel is the least
All-night bus services are
expensive option; buses serve most areas but can be slow. available in London from about
11pm until early morning. Night
buses carry the letter N before
Flying to Great Britain The British Airways shuttle the route number, and most
London’s Heathrow Airport is flights between London and pass through Trafalgar Square.
served by many of the world’s cities such as Glasgow, Taxis are available at major
leading airlines, with direct Edinburgh, and Manchester are train stations, as well as at
flights from most major cities. popular with business travelers. stands near hotels and all over
Other international airports At peak times, flights leave every central London. All licenced
include London Gatwick, hour, while at other times there is cabs must carry a “For Hire” sign,
London Stansted, Manchester, usually a flight every two hours. which is lit up whenever they
Birmingham, and Edinburgh. are free. The famous black cabs
British Airways has flights to are the safest taxis to use in
destinations across the world. Traveling in London London. Most cab drivers
Other British airlines include In London, daily, weekly, and expect a tip.
Virgin Atlantic, with routes to monthly tickets called Travel- Sometimes, the best way to see
the US and Far East, and cards are valid on all public trans- London is on foot, but however
Thomas Cook Airlines, which portation, as are pre-pay Oyster you choose to get around, try to
flies to the US, Africa, and cards, which you can credit avoid the rush hours from 8 to
throughout Europe. Several no- before your journey. You can 9:30am, and 4:30 to 6:30pm.
frills airlines, such as Ryanair and also use your contactless debit/
easyJet, offer low-cost flights to credit card. Buses no longer
destinations all over Europe. accept cash payment, so if you London Underground
American airlines offering are only using buses, buy a daily The underground in London,
services to Britain include Delta or weekly bus pass. Passes are known as the tube, is one of the
Air Lines, American Airlines, and available at most newsagents largest systems of its kind in the
United; from Canada, the main and train or underground world. London tube trains run
carrier is Air Canada. From stations. every day, except December 25,
Australasia, Qantas and Air New Most travel services in London from about 5:30am until after
Zealand vie for passengers with operate across six zones, with midnight. Fewer trains run on
Far Eastern rivals, such as Emirates. the tube, overground trains, and Sundays. The 11 tube lines are
National Rail also operating in color-coded and maps are
zones 7–9. There is a standard available at every station, while
Charters and charge for travel within each maps of the central section are
Package Deals zone and between zones, displayed on each train.
Charter flights are cheaper but regardless of the distance
have less-flexible departure traveled. The area covered by
times than standard scheduled each zone varies slightly Rail Travel
flights. Packages are also worth between buses and trains. Britain’s privatized railroad
considering, as airlines and tour If you are in London for less network covers the whole of
operators can offer flexible deals than a week, buy a two-zone the country. It consists of several
to suit your needs. These can weekly Travelcard. Alternatively, regional services, such as Great
include car rental or rail travel. choose a Visitor Oyster card, North Eastern Railways and
which can be topped up with Great Western Railways. Virgin
credit at tube stations, Oyster Trains operates the main West
Domestic Flights Ticket Stops, and Travel Coast and East Coast routes. The
Britain’s size means that internal Information Centres. system is generally reliable. The
air travel only makes sense over London also has express-train main stations in London all
long distances, such as from services to Britain’s two busiest serve different areas of the
London to Scotland, or to one airports, Heathrow and Gatwick, country; Euston serves the
of the offshore islands. which leave from Paddington Midlands and northwest, King’s
Cross serves the northeast and than rail travel. Journey times, Most companies will not rent to
Scotland, Liverpool Street serves however, are longer. Tickets can novice drivers, and set age limits
East Anglia, Waterloo and be purchased at major inter- (usually 21–70).
Paddington serve the West national airports, Victoria Coach
Country and Wales, and Victoria Station – the main terminal for
and Charing Cross serve the journeys into and out of London Ferry Services
South Coast. – and most large travel agents. About 20 car and passenger
First-class tickets for most The largest British coach services travel regularly across
journeys are available, and operator is National Express. the Channel and the North
roundtrip fares are less costly Another major operator is and Irish seas, the major ones
than two one-way tickets. There Scottish Citylink, with services including DFDS Seaways
are several types of fare for between London, the North, and P&O. Fares vary greatly
adults: Advance, purchased and Scotland. according to the season, time
ahead of travel and to be used of travel, and duration of stay.
on a specific train; Off-Peak, if Brittany Ferries run longer
you can travel at less busy times; Traveling by Road (often overnight) services
Anytime, which gives the most The most startling difference for between Plymouth, Poole, and
options, but is the most costly; many foreign motorists in Britain Portsmouth to the west coast
and Rovers and Rangers, which is that one drives on the left, of France, as well as one 20-hour
offers unlimited travel within a with corresponding adjustments service outside the winter
specified area, with a few at traffic circles and junctions. months between Plymouth
restrictions on when you travel. Distances are measured in miles. and Santander in Spain.
If you plan to do much Traffic density in towns and at
traveling by train around Britain, busy holiday times can cause
it is worth buying a rail pass. These long delays. Parking is a big Channel Tunnel
can be bought from BR agents issue in towns and cities, so it The Channel Tunnel offers a
abroad, such as CIE Tours Inter is worth taking advantage of nonstop rail link between Britain
national and VoyagesSNCF. park-and-ride schemes. and Europe. Eurostar services
Passes are available for families Renting a car in Britain can be (for foot passengers) run from
and young people. expensive. One of the most St. Pancras station in London to
competitive national companies Lille and Paris in France, and
is Autos Abroad, but small local Brussels in Belgium. Traveling
Longdistance Buses firms may undercut even these from London direct to Brussels
In Britain, long-distance express rates. International car rental or Paris takes 2–2½ hours.
buses and ones used for sight- companies such as Avis, Budget, The Eurotunnel service (also
seeing excursions are usually and Hertz also operate in Britain. known as the Shuttle) transports
referred to as coaches. Coach You need a valid driver’s license vehicles between Folkestone
services are generally cheaper and a passport when you rent. and Calais in about half an hour.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Thomas Cook Airlines Bus Companies Ferry Services
Tel 01733-224 330 (UK).
Air Canada National Express Brittany Ferries
Tel 0871-220 1111 (UK). Virgin Atlantic Tel 0871-781 8181. Tel 0330-159 7000.
Tel 1888-247 2262 (US Tel 0844-209 7777 (UK). ∑ nationalexpress.com ∑ brittanyferries.
and Canada). Tel 1800-862 8621 (US). Scottish Citylink co.uk
Air New Zealand Tel 0871-266 3333. DFDS Seaways
Tel 0800-028 4149 (UK). Rail Travel ∑ citylink.co.uk
Tel 0871-574 7235.
Tel 0800-737 000 (NZ). ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
CIE Tours Car Rental
American Airlines International P&O
Tel 0844-369 9899 (UK).
Autos Abroad
Tel 020-8638 0715 (UK). Tel 08716-642 121.
Tel 0808-284 0014.
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ poferries.com
National Rail ∑ autosabroad.com
British Airways Inquiries Avis
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Channel Tunnel
Tel 0845-748 49 50. Tel 0844-581 0147.
Tel 1800-452 1201 (US). ∑ avis.co.uk
Services
Virgin Trains
Delta Air Lines Budget Eurostar
Tel 020 7660 0767 (UK). Tel 0800-015 8123.
Tel 0808-284 4444. Tel 08432-186 186.
Tel 0800 241 4141 (US). Voyages–SNCF ∑ budget.co.uk ∑ eurostar.com
Qantas Tel 0844-848 5848. Hertz Eurotunnel
Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). ∑ uk.voyagessncf. Tel 0843-309 3099. Tel 0844-335 3535.
Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). com ∑ hertz.co.uk ∑ eurotunnel.com
Shopping Burberry trench coats – are

found in outlets such as
While the West End of London is undeniably Britain’s most Burberry and Gieves and
exciting place to shop, many regional centers offer nearly as Hawkes, while Laura Ashley
wide a range of goods. Moreover, regional shopping can be is renowned for its floral-print
dresses. For kilts and tartans,
less stressful, less expensive, and remarkably varied, with craft the best place is Hector Russell,
studios, farm stores, street markets, and factory showrooms found in both Edinburgh
adding to the enjoyment of bargain-hunting. Britain is famous and Glasgow.
for its country clothing: wool, tartan, waxed cotton, and tweed London is the place for
are all popular, along with classic prints, such as those found designer fashions, however,
at Liberty or Laura Ashley. Other particularly British goods as many designers have
specialized outlets here.
include antiques, porcelain, glass, and local crafts. Vivienne Westwood, doyenne
of the punkish avant-garde,
uses London as her British base.
Opening Hours of a household name, famed for
In general, you can assume its good-value clothing and
most stores in Britain will open prepared food. The sizes of all Markets
during the week from 9am or chain stores, and the range of Large towns and cities usually
10am until 5pm or 6pm. Hours stock they carry, will differ from have a central covered market
on Saturdays may be longer, region to region. that operates most weekdays,
and stores may have late-night The most famous of London’s selling everything from fresh
opening on Thursdays. Most many department stores is produce to pots and pans.
large stores in town centers now Harrods, with 300 departments, Many towns hold weekly
open on Sundays; longer 4,000 employees, and a spectacular markets in the main square.
opening hours are more Edwardian food hall. Nearby, The fashionable markets of
common as Christmas Harvey Nichols stocks designer London are Covent Garden,
approaches. In villages, the clothing and boasts the city’s Portobello Road, and Camden
stores may close at lunchtime most stylish food hall. Gourmets Lock, where you can find an
for an hour, or for one afternoon should make a pilgrimage to assortment of secondhand
each week. Market days vary Fortnum and Mason, which has clothes, handmade crafts, and
from town to town; some stocked high-quality food for antiques. Spitalfields is a
markets are held on Sundays. more than 300 years. Selfridges burgeoning East End market.
sells virtually everything, from Dating back to 1756, Borough
fine cashmeres to household Market sells quality fresh
Out-of-town gadgets. Liberty, the West End’s produce and gourmet foods.
Shopping Centers last privately owned
These large complexes, similar department store, still sells the
to American malls, are rapidly hand-blocked silks and Oriental Food and Drink
increasing around Britain. goods for which it was famous Supermarkets are a good place
The advantages of car access when it first opened in 1875. to shop for food. The range and
and easy, cheap parking are quality of items in stock is usually
undeniable, and most centers are excellent. Several large chains
accessible by public transportation. Clothing Stores compete for market share and
The centers usually feature Once again, London has the as a result, prices are generally
clusters of popular upscale widest range, from haute couture lower than smaller stores. How-
chain stores, with many facilities to cheap and cheerful ready- ever, the smaller town-center
and services offered, such as made items. Shopping for stores, such as local bakeries,
nurseries, cafés, restaurants, clothing in the regions, however, greengrocers, and markets, may
and cinemas. can often be less tiring. Many give you a more interesting
towns that are popular with choice of fresh regional produce,
tourists – Oxford, Bath, and York, and a more personal service.
Department Stores for instance – have Alcoholic beverages are
Certain big department stores independently owned clothing available in a huge variety of
are only found in London, but stores where you receive more stores around Britain, many
others have provincial branches. personal service. Or you could of them wine merchants, such
John Lewis, for example, has try one of the chain stores as the chain store Oddbins.
stores in 45 locations. It sells a found throughout the country For whisky, Scotland is the place
huge range of fabrics, clothing, for stylish, reasonably priced to go; Cadenheads and The
and household items, combining clothes, as well as younger and Whisky Shop both have a
quality service with good value. less-expensive fashions. wide variety of rare scotches.
Marks & Spencer, with branches Traditional British clothing – Luxury chocolates can be
throughout Britain, is even more waxed Barbour jackets and purchased at Hotel Chocolat,
Montezuma’s, and Charbonnel Gifts and Souvenirs Art and Antiques

et Walker. Most reputable large stores Britain’s long history means there
can arrange to ship expensive are many interesting artifacts to
items back home for you. If you be found. Many towns, such as
Books and Magazines want to buy things that you can Brighton, have dozens of antique
The capital is the hub of Britain’s carry in a suitcase, the choice shops. You might also like to visit
book trade, as many of the is wide. a jumble or flea market in the
country’s leading publishers are For slightly more unusual hope of picking up a bargain.
located within central London. presents, have a look in museum The country’s largest collec
Charing Cross Road is the focal shops and at the range of items tion of original photographs for
point for those searching for available in National Trust and sale is at the Photographers’
new, antiquarian, and English Heritage properties. Gallery in London. For paintings
secondhand volumes, and it is Some chain stores are very and ceramics, the Mayfair
the home of Foyle’s, with its convenient places to pick up Gallery excels in belle epoque
massive stock now in a flagship attractive gifts and souvenirs. masters. In Scotland, The
store. Large branches of such The Body Shop sells natural Scottish Gallery has everything
chains as Waterstones and cosmetics and toiletries in from jewelry to pieces by well
WH Smith (which also sells recyclable plastic packaging. known Scottish artists, while
magazines) are here, although For designer gifts, try the Conran the Glasgow Antiques &
they can also be found in most Shop in London, which sells Collectables Market is a
cities and major towns. stylish accessories for the home. treasure trove of antiques.
DIRECTORY
Department Stores Gieves & Hawkes Food and Drink WH Smith
1 Savile Row, London W1. 124 Holborn,
Fortnum and Mason Tel 0207432 6403. Cadenheads
London EC1.
181 Piccadilly, London One of several branches. 172 Canongate,
Tel 0207242 0535.
W1. Tel 0207734 8040. Edinburgh EH8.
Hector Russell One of many branches.
Tel 0131556 5864.
Harrods 110 Buchanan St,
87–135 Brompton Rd, Glasgow G1. Charbonnel et Walker Gifts and
London SW1. Tel 0141221 0217. The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Souvenirs
Tel 0207730 1234. Bond Street, London W1.
Laura Ashley The Body Shop
Tel 0207491 0939.
Harvey Nichols 7–9 Harriet St, 374 Oxford St,
109–125 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Hotel Chocolat London W1.
London SW1. Tel 0871223 1422. 34 Coney St, York YO1. Tel 0207629 0483.
Tel 0207235 5000. One of many branches. Tel 01904635 304. One of many branches.
One of many branches.
Vivienne Westwood Montezuma’s Conran Shop
John Lewis 44 Conduit St, London W1. 15 Duke St, Brighton BN1. Michelin House, 81
69 St. James Centre, Tel 0207439 1109. Tel 01273324 979. Fulham Rd, London SW3.
Edinburgh EH1. Tel 0207589 7401.
Markets Oddbins
Tel 0844693 1740.
7 Borough High St,
One of many branches.
Borough Market London SE1 9SU.
Art and Antiques
Liberty 8 Southwark St, Tel 0207407 5957. Glasgow Antiques &
210–220 Regent St, London SE1. One of many branches. Collectables Market
London W1. Open Mon–Sat. 233 London Rd,
The Whisky Shop
Tel 0131556 9121. Glasgow G40.
Camden Lock Unit L2/O2, Buchanan
Marks & Spencer Chalk Farm Rd, Galleries, 220 Buchanan Tel 0141552 6989.
173 & 458 Oxford St, London NW1. Street, Glasgow G1. Mayfair Gallery
London W1. Open 10am–6pm daily. Tel 0141331 0022. 39 South Audley St,
Tel 0207935 7954. Covent Garden London W1.
Two of many branches. The Piazza, London WC2.
Books and Tel 0207491 3435.
Open 9am–5pm daily.
Magazines
Selfridges Photographers’
400 Oxford St, London Portobello Road Foyle’s Gallery
W1. Tel 0800123 400. Portobello Rd, 107 Charing Cross Rd, 16–18 Ramilies St,
London W10. London WC2. London W1F.
Clothing Stores Open Mon–Sat; antiques Tel 0207437 5660. Tel 0207087 9300.
Burberry 8am–5:30pm Sat. Waterstones The Scottish Gallery
21–23 Bond Street, Spitalfields 128 Princes St, Edinburgh. 16 Dundas St,
London W1. Commercial St, London E1. Tel 0131226 2666. Edinburgh EH3.
Tel 0207980 8425. Open 9am–5pm daily. One of many branches. Tel 0131558 1200.
Entertainment the very latest house-music

beats. Major pop-concert
London is the entertainment capital of Britain, with an array venues in the capital include
of world-class cultural and sporting events. Around the Wembley Arena and the
country, theaters, opera houses, concert halls, and other Eventim Apollo. The Royal
Albert Hall hosts a range of
venues host a wide range of performing- and dramatic-arts
concerts, including the popular
programs. The summer months also see numerous open-air classical Proms. The Wigmore
arts festivals. Ticket prices are often less expensive outside the Hall, the Barbican Concert Hall,
capital. Britain offers hundreds of special-interest holidays for and the Royal Festival Hall are
those wanting to acquire a new skill or learn a new sport. also notable classical venues.
Walking, sailing, skiing, pony-trekking, and golfing holidays The Royal Opera House is a
world-class venue, and home
are popular. Soccer, rugby, and cricket are favorite sports. to the Royal Opera. English
National Opera performs at the
London Coliseum. Classical
Entertainment Listings along Shaftesbury Avenue and open-air concerts are also held
For information about what’s on the Haymarket, and around at Marble Hill House.
in London, check the Evening Covent Garden and Charing A wide range of musical
Standard or the listings Cross Road. events is staged in towns and
magazine Time Out (published Outside the capital, at cities across Great Britain.
every Wednesday). All the Stratford-upon-Avon, the Royal Liverpool and Manchester have
quality broadsheet newspapers Shakespeare Theatre presents excellent orchestras and are
have detailed arts reviews and a year-round program of the also centers for modern music,
listings of cultural events in great bard’s works. The Bristol while Glyndebourne hosts an
London and throughout the Old Vic is the oldest working annual opera festival. Wales has
country. Local newspapers, theater in Britain. Good a very strong choral tradition,
libraries, and tourist offices can productions are staged at the while northern England is
supply details of regional events. Manchester Royal Exchange, renowned for booming brass
and the Traverse in Edinburgh. bands. Scotland, of course, is
Open-air theater is a feature famous for its bagpipers.
Tickets of city life in the summer, with
Ticket availability varies from street entertainers in London’s
show to show. You may be able Covent Garden and other urban Dance
to buy a ticket at the door, centers. London’s Globe theater Classical ballet is performed
especially for a mid-week (see p66) stages performances of at the Royal Opera House,
matinee, but for the more Shakespeare’s plays, and open- home of the Royal Ballet, and
popular West End shows, seats air theaters at Regent’s Park the London Coliseum, where
may have to be reserved weeks and Holland Park also the English National Ballet
or even months in advance have a summer program. usually performs. The Place
through agencies – ubiquitous Perhaps the liveliest theatrical theatre, Sadler’s Wells, and
in central London – or by festival in Britain is the three- the Institute for Contemporary
telephone or in person at theater week Edinburgh Festival, held Art (ICA) are major venues for
box offices. Half-price tickets for in late summer. Many seaside contemporary dance.
some same-day shows can be resorts also have a summer Birmingham is home to
obtained from Leicester Square. theater season. the Birmingham Royal Ballet
Beware of counterfeit tickets and is the best place to see
offered by touts. performances outside London.
Music Traditional English Morris
A diverse musical repertoire dancing or the Scottish
Theater can be found in a variety of Highland fling and Celtic
Britain has an enduring venues across Great Britain. dancing (ceilidhs) can be
theatrical tradition dating back London, in particular, is one of enjoyed at local festivals.
to Shakespeare. London is the the world’s great centers for
place to enjoy theater at its music, and home to several
most varied and glamorous. world-class orchestras and Cinema
The West End alone has more chamber groups. As well as The latest movies can be seen
than 50 theaters. The Barbican classical concerts, there are in any large town. Premieres
and the National Theatre dozens of rock, reggae, soul, with international film stars
stage a mixture of classics and folk, country, jazz, and Latin are usually held at London’s
challenging new productions. concerts taking place on every Leicester Square cinemas.
The major commercial day of the week. There are also The capital now has a 3D
theaters, showing more popular numerous nightclubs that play movie theater, the BFI London
plays and musicals, are located everything from 70s disco to IMAX. Young children may see
films graded U (universal) or PG Outdoor Activities the West Country, Wales,

(parental guidance). Cinema Britain has an extensive network and Scotland. Soccer, rugby,
prices vary widely; some are less of long-distance footpaths and cricket, and horse-racing are
expensive at off-peak times, such shorter trail routes for walkers, all popular sports in Britain.
as Mondays or afternoons. For together with designated cycle Details of matches and
first nights of new releases it is routes and bridle paths. meetings can be found in
advisable to book in advance. There are 2,000 golf courses national newspapers. During
in Britain and many clubs the last week of June and
welcome visiting players (bring the first week of July, the
Special-Interest Vacations confirmation of your handicap). Wimbledon tournament
Hundreds of options are Green fees vary widely. Tennis attracts many visitors to the
available, from any kind of courts can be found in every All England Lawn Tennis and
sport, to arts and crafts, such town and many hotels. Croquet Club.
as painting, calligraphy, and Sailing is popular in the Lake Among adventure-sport
jewelry-making, and a wide District, and the south-coast options are rock-climbing and
range of educational courses resorts have plenty of pleasure mountaineering, aeronautical
to suit all levels. craft. Boating on the Thames sports and gliding. Skiing and
Reservations can be made and on Britain’s network of other winter sports are possible
with organizers or through canals is a common summer in Scotland. Ice-skating rinks are
a travel agent. The English pursuit. Surfers and windsurfers located in major cities and
and Scottish Tourist Boards head for the West Country and horse-riding centers are found
have pamphlets on some South Wales. The best game throughout the country, with
of these activities. fishing (trout and salmon) is in pony-trekking in tourist areas.
DIRECTORY
Theater Glyndebourne Sadler’s Wells Manchester M20 2BB.
Lewes, East Sussex BN8. Rosebery Ave, Tel 0161-445 6111.
Barbican Tel 01273-812 321. London EC1. ∑ thebmc.co.uk
Silk St, London EC2. Tel 020-7863 8000.
London Coliseum Canal & River Trust
Tel 020-7638 4141. The Place First Floor North, Station
St. Martin’s Lane,
Bristol Old Vic London WC2. 17 Duke’s Road, House, 500 Elder Gate,
King St Bristol BS1. London WC1. Milton Keynes MK9 1BB.
Tel 020-7845 9300.
Tel 020-7121 1100. Tel 0303-040 4040.
Tel 0117-987 7877.
Royal Albert Hall ∑ canalrivertrust.
Edinburgh Festival Kensington Gore, Cinema org.uk
The Hub, Castlehill, London SW7. English Golf Union
Tel 020-7589 8212
BFI London IMAX
Edinburgh EH1. National Golf Centre,
Waterloo Rd, London SE1.
Tel 0131-473 2000. or 0845-401 5034. The Broadway, Woodhall
Tel 0330-333 7878.
Royal Festival Hall Spa, Lincs LN10.
National Theatre
Southbank Centre, Outdoor Activities Tel 01526-354 500.
Southbank Centre, ∑ englandgolf.org
London SE1. London SE1.
All England Lawn
Tel 020-7452 3000. Tel 0844 875 0073. Outward Bound
Tennis and Croquet
Hackthorpe Hall,
Royal Opera House Club
Royal Exchange Hackthorpe,
Bow St, London WC2. Church Road, Wimbledon,
St. Anne’s Square, Cumbria CA10 2HX.
Tel 020-7304 4000. London SW19.
Manchester M2. Tel 01931-740 000.
Tel 020-8944 1066.
Tel 0161-833 9833. Wembley Arena ∑ outwardbound.
Empire Way, Wembley, Association of org.uk
Royal Shakespeare Pleasure Craft
Middlesex HA9. Ski Club of Great
Theatre Operators
Tel 0844-815 0815 or Britain
Stratford-upon-Avon Marine House, 57–63 Church Road,
0844-824 4824.
CV37. Tel 0844-800 1110. Thorpe Lea Rd, London SW19.
Wigmore Hall Egham, Surrey. Tel 020-7410 2000.
Traverse 36 Wigmore St, London Tel 01784-223 640. ∑ skiclub.co.uk
Cambridge St, Edinburgh W1. Tel 020-7935 2141.
EH1. Tel 0131-228 1404.
British Activity
Providers Association
Dance Tel 01746-769 982.
Music
ICA ∑ thebapa.org.uk
Eventim Apollo Nash House, Carlton British Mountain
Queen Caroline St, House Terrace, The Mall, eering Council
London W6. London SW1. The Old Church, 177–179
Tel 020-8563 3800. Tel 020-7930 3647. Burton Rd, West Didsbury,
104  G R E AT B R I TA I N
Where to Stay
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Price Guide
London The Goring £££ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Historic Map C4
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Beeston Place, SW1W 0JW
DK Choice Tel 020 7396 9000 £ under £100
££ £100 to £200
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: ∑ thegoring.com
£££ over £200
Andaz Liverpool Street ££ A great English institution, with
Boutique Map F3 liveried doormen, gardens, and
40 Liverpool Street, EC2M 7QN crackling fires on winter days.
Tel 020 7961 1234 DK Choice
∑ london.liverpoolstreet. WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: CHICHESTER:
andaz.com The Ritz £££ Ship Hotel ££
Several cool bars and Luxury Map C3 Boutique
restaurants, along with a hidden 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR North St, West Sussex,
Masonic temple await in this Tel 020 7493 8181 PO19 1NH
refurbished palatial old railroad ∑ theritzlondon.com Tel 01243 778 000
hotel. Bedrooms are minimalist A treat, with stunning Louis XVI- ∑ theshiphotel.net
but comfortable. The lobby has style bedrooms with all mod In a splendid listed building and
a room for guests to mingle cons and a gilded dining room. former home of Admiral Sir
over free refreshments. George Murray, who fought
alongside Nelson, individually
styled rooms burst with color,
REGENT’S PARK AND Southern England and there’s a cozy cottage.
BLOOMSBURY: The Arch ££
Boutique ARUNDEL: April Cottage £
50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD B&B HEVER: Hever Castle B&B ££
Tel 020 7724 4700 Crossbush Lane, West Sussex, B&B
∑ thearchlondon.com BN18 9PQ Hever Castle, Kent, TN8 7NG
Guests at these cleverly converted Tel 01903 885 401 Tel 01732 861 800
townhouses can also enjoy The ∑ april-cottage.co.uk ∑ hevercastle.co.uk
Arch’s bar and laid-back dining. This simple but charming Magnificent Edwardian rooms,
cottage located near the some with four-poster beds.
REGENT’S PARK AND wetlands serves good breakfasts. Includes free access to the castle.
BLOOMSBURY: Hart House ££
B&B Map C2 BRIGHTON: Hotel Una £££ LEWES: The Shelleys ££
51 Gloucester Place, W1U 8JF Boutique Historic
Tel 020 7935 2288 55–56 Regency Square, East Sussex, 135–136 High St., East Sussex, BN7 1XS
∑ harthouse.co.uk BN1 2FF Tel 01273 472 361
Spotless rooms and excellent Tel 01273 820 464 ∑ the-shelleys.co.uk
breakfast can be found at this ∑ hotel-una.co.uk Family-run 17th-century country-
award-winning townhouse B&B. Supremely elegant, wonderfully house hotel with luxurious rooms.
colorful rooms, plus cocktail bar.
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND PORTSMOUTH:
HYDE PARK: The Ampersand ££ CANTERBURY: Number 4 Hotel £
Boutique Map B4 Cathedral Lodge £ Boutique
10 Harrington Road, SW7 3ER Boutique 69 Festing Road, Southsea,
Tel 020 7589 5895 The Precincts, Kent, CT1 2EH Hampshire, PO4 0NQ
∑ ampersandhotel.com Tel 01227 865 350 Tel 02392 008 444
The whimsical interiors at this ∑ canterburycathedrallodge.org ∑ number4hotel.co.uk
hotel are inspired by music, Stylish rooms in the grounds Plush designer hotel close to
science, and nature. of Canterbury Cathedral. both the town and the seafront.
SALISBURY: St. Ann’s House £

B&B
33–34 St. Ann Street, Wiltshire, SP1 2DP
Tel 01722 335 657
∑ stannshouse.co.uk
This four-star Georgian B&B offers
great views of Salisbury Cathedral.
Wheelchair-accessible room.
SOUTHAMPTON:
Hotel Terravina ££
Modern
174 Woodlands Road, Woodlands,
Hampshire, SO40 7GL
Tel 02380 293 784
∑ hotelterravina.co.uk
On the edge of the New Forest.
The Goring, a luxurious family-run hotel in London’s Belgravia district Chic rooms feature rain showers.
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS  105
Elegant hotel run by the owner of

The West Country the renowned Oyster & Fish House.
and Wales PENZANCE:
The Artist Residence ££
ABERYSTWYTH: Gwesty Cymru £ B&B
Boutique 20 Chapel Street, Cornwall, TR18 4AW
19 Marine Terrace, Wales, SY23 2AZ Tel 01736 365 664
Tel 01970 612252 ∑ arthotelcornwall.co.uk
∑ gwestycymru.com Hip guesthouse in a mansion,
Modern twist on traditional Welsh with bright art on the walls.
seaside boarding house. Stylish
rooms with oak furniture, designer PORTMEIRION: Portmeirion £££
bathrooms, and sea views. Character
Gwynedd, Wales, LL48 6ER
Tel 01766 770000
DK Choice ∑ portmeirion-village.com
BATH: The Royal Crescent £££ A fantasy village built by Clough
Luxury Williams-Ellis. Elegantly decorated
16 Royal Crescent, Somerset, rooms, some with sea views.
BA1 2LS
Tel 01225 823 333
∑ royalcrescent.co.uk
Step into Georgian times while Central England The luxurious Duke of York Master Suite at
enjoying modern amenities. The Royal Crescent, Bath
This opulent hotel has high- CAMBRIDGE: Varsity Hotel
ceilinged rooms, a candlelit spa, & Spa £££ SOUTHWOLD:
and a gourmet restaurant. Boutique Sutherland House ££
Thompson’s Lane, Cambridgeshire, Historic
CB5 8AQ 56 High Street, Suffolk, IP18 6DN
BEAUMARIS: Ye Olde Bull’s Head Tel 01223 306 030 Tel 01502 724 544
Inn and Townhouse ££ ∑ thevarsityhotel.co.uk ∑ sutherlandhouse.co.uk
Character Set amid the world-famous Impressive house dating back
Castle St, Isle of Anglesey, Wales, colleges, this splendid hotel to 1455. Room features include a
LL58 8AP exudes class throughout. sleigh bed and a slipper bath.
Tel 01248 810329 There is also an excellent fish
∑ bullsheadinn.co.uk GREAT MILTON: Le Manoir restaurant on site.
A 15th-century inn with modern aux Quat’Saisons £££
facilities and a prized restaurant. Luxury STRATFORD-UPON-AVON:
Church Road, Oxfordshire, OX44 7PD Twelfth Night Guesthouse £
BRISTOL: Brooks Guesthouse £ Tel 01844 278 881 B&B
B&B ∑ belmond.com 13 Evesham Place, Warwickshire,
St. Nicholas Street, BS1 1UB Opulent rooms with a lush garden, CV37 6HT
Tel 01179 300 066 plus a two Michelin-starred Tel 01789 414 595
∑ brooksguesthousebristol.com restaurant and a cookery school. ∑ twelfthnight.co.uk
This bright B&B behind St. Nick’s Stay in a refurbished Victorian
market offers doubles and triples. LOWESTOFT: Britten House £ villa with bright and colorful
Room with a view rooms. Not far from the Royal
CARDIFF: St David’s Hotel 21 Kirkley Cliff Road, Suffolk, NR33 0DB Shakespeare Company theaters.
& Spa ££ Tel 01502 573 950
Designer ∑ brittenhouse.co.uk
Havannah St, Wales, CF10 5SD This Victorian townhouse with
Tel 02920 454045 original features and sea views Northern England
∑ thestdavidshotel.com was the family home of the
One of the most luxurious hotels composer Benjamin Britten. ARMATHWAITE:
in Wales. State-of-the-art rooms Drybeck Farm £
have private decks overlooking OXFORD: Old Bank Hotel ££ Boutique
the bay. Luxury Drybeck Farm, Carlisle, Cumbria,
92–94 High Street, Oxfordshire, OX1 4BJ CA4 9ST
CLOVELLY: The Red Lion ££ Tel 01865 799 599 Tel 07854 523 012
Room with a view ∑ oldbank-hotel.co.uk ∑ drybeckfarm.co.uk
The Quay, Devon, EX39 5TF Some rooms in this converted Stay in a Mongolian yurt or a
Tel 01237 431 237 bank have views of the Bodleian gypsy caravan on a working farm.
∑ clovelly.co.uk Library and Radcliffe Camera. Drybeck combines the comforts
There are fabulous views from this of home with outdoor pleasures.
hotel’s nautically themed rooms. ROSS ON WYE: Norton House £
B&B BLACKPOOL: The Kenley £
LYME REGIS: Old Monmouth Road, Whitchurch, B&B
Hix Townhouse ££ Herefordshire, HR9 6DJ 29 St. Chads Road, Lancashire, FY1 6BP
B&B Tel 01600 890 046 Tel 01253 346 447
1 Pound Street, Dorset, DT7 3HZ ∑ norton-house.com ∑ kenleyhotel.co.uk
Tel 01297 442 499 Charming 16th-century building The Kenley is a boutique B&B
∑ hixtownhouse.co.uk with oak beams and cozy fires. with contemporary kitsch styling.
HALIFAX: Holdsworth House ££ ISLE OF COLL: Coll Hotel ££

Boutique Scotland Room with a view
Holdsworth Road, Holmfield, Ariangour, PA78 6SZ
West Yorkshire, HX2 9TG APPLECROSS: Applecross Inn £ Tel 01879 230 334
Tel 01422 240 024 Room with a view ∑ collhotel.com
∑ holdsworthhouse.co.uk Wester Ross, IV54 8LR Wonderfully appointed lochside
A Jacobean manor with some Tel 01520 744 262 hotel with six comfortable
period rooms. Breakfast is made ∑ applecross.uk.com en-suite guest rooms and epic
with locally sourced produce. Lovely inn with views of the Isle views. Superb seafood restaurant.
of Skye. Famous locally for the
LIVERPOOL: 30 James Street ££ quality of seafood and the large ISLE OF MULL: Highland
Luxury portions served up in its eatery. Cottage Hotel & Restaurant ££
30 James St, Lancashire, L2 7PQ Luxury
Tel 0151 236 9659 ARISAIG: Old Library 24 Breadalbane Street, Tobermory,
∑ rmstitanichotel.co.uk Lodge & Restaurant £ PA75 6PD
Gorgeous rooms in this Titanic- Historic Tel 01688 302 030
themed hotel – it was the former Inverness-shire, PH39 4NH ∑ highlandcottage.co.uk
HQ of the shipping company Tel 01687 450 651 David Currie is the perfect host,
that built the ill-fated vessel. ∑ oldlibrary.co.uk while his wife Jo cooks delicious
Cozy rooms in over 200-year-old Scottish fare. Choose between
MANCHESTER: Didsbury House £ stables at a waterfront location. six individually styled and
Luxury luxuriously furnished rooms.
Didsbury Park, Didsbury Village, EDINBURGH:
M20 5LJ Dalhousie Castle Hotel £££ ORKNEY: The Foveran £
Tel 0161 448 2200 Historic B&B
∑ eclectichotels.co.uk Bonnyrigg, EH19 3JB St. Ola, KW15 1SF
Renovated Victorian villa in Tel 01875 820 153 Tel 01856 872 389
a leafy suburb. Rooms are ∑ dalhousiecastle.co.uk ∑ foveranhotel.co.uk
modern and individually styled. This retreat offers an excellent Family-run hotel with wonderful
spa and restaurant. It also has views over Scapa Flow. There are
grounds for falconry and archery. eight en-suite guest rooms, plus
DK Choice a lovely restaurant where locally
WINDERMERE: FORT AUGUSTUS: The Lovat £ sourced seafood is the highlight.
Gilpin Lodge £££ Modern
Luxury Inverness-shire, PH32 4DU SHETLAND: Skeoverick £
Crook Road, Cumbria, LA23 3NE Tel 01456 490 000 B&B
Tel 01539 488 818 ∑ thelovat.com Brunatwatt, Walls, ZE2 9PJ
∑ thegilpin.co.uk High-quality accommodation on Tel 01595 809 349
This supremely stylish hotel the southern tip of Loch Ness. ∑ visitscotland.com
combines a warm welcome Welcoming and spacious B&B in
with contemporary comforts a picturesque lochside location.
and haute cuisine. The garden DK Choice Immaculate en-suite rooms and
suites make the most of the GLASGOW: Hotel du Vin at a lounge. Serves a great cooked
sylvan environs, while other One Devonshire Gardens £££ breakfast, with hen or duck eggs.
rooms are located in the Boutique
venerable old lodge itself. 1 Devonshire Gardens, G12 0UX ST. ANDREWS:
Tel 0141 378 0385 Old Course Hotel £££
∑ hotelduvin.com Luxury
YORK: Middlethorpe Hall £££ Housed in a quintet of Victorian Kingdom of Fife, KY16 9SP
Luxury townhouses, the Hotel du Vin is Tel 01334 474 371
Bishopthorpe Road, Yorkshire, Glasgow’s most famous hotel. ∑ oldcoursehotel.co.uk
YO23 2GB The emphasis is on opulence – One of the world’s best golf-
Tel 01904 641 241 from its spacious and unique resort hotels. Book a room
∑ middlethorpe.com rooms, to the whiskey bar and with an Old Course view,
Superb mansion built in 1699 restaurant. Service is impeccable. and enjoy the treat of the
amid gardens and parkland. Kohler Waters Spa.
One of the delightful cottages at Middlethorpe Hall, York

Key to Price Guide see page 104
Where to Eat and Drink

REGENT’S PARK AND Price Guide
BLOOMSBURY: Gem £ Prices include a three-course meal for
Turkish Map 4 F1 one, half a bottle of house wine, and all
charges, such as cover, service, and VAT.
265 Upper St, N1 2UQ
Tel 020 7359 0405 £ under £35
Serving fragrant meze in a ££ £35 to £50
£££ over £50
charming room decorated with
Kurdish farm implements. Week-
end breakfasts and brunches. Amid glossy decor, this Notting
Hill restaurant serves delicious
tempura and sushi, plus a few
DK Choice specials, such as pad thai.
REGENT’S PARK AND
BLOOMSBURY: SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Golden Hind £ HYDE PARK:
British Map C2 Hunan ££
73 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PN Chinese
Tel 020 7486 3644 Closed Sun 51 Pimlico Road, SW1W 8NE
The Art Nouveau surroundings of A welcoming no-frills place, Tel 020 7730 5712 Closed Sun
Bibendum, in South Kensington, London Golden Hind was established in Enjoy mouthwatering, tapas-size
1914. The home-made fishcakes portions of Taiwanese-style
with mushy peas are an enticing Chinese food – served fiery or
London alternative to their famous fish ’n’ mild, as preferred.
chips. Bring your own bottle.
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Lahore Kebab House £ HYDE PARK:
Pakistani SOUTH KENSINGTON AND Kensington Place ££
2–10 Umberston Street, E1 1PY HYDE PARK: Fish ’n’ chips
Tel 020 7481 9737 Buona Sera Jam £ 201 Kensington Church Street, W8 7LX
Spiced curries and kebabs will Italian Tel 020 7727 3184
set your taste buds tingling in 289 King’s Road, SW3 5EW This famous goldfish-bowl
this warehouse-style space. Tel 020 7352 8827 brasserie serves fantastic
Bring your own bottle. This lively trattoria is great for beer-battered fish and triple-
families. Climb miniature ladders cooked chips.
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: to reach the top-tier tables and
Aqua Shard £££ enjoy terrific pizzas and pastas. SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
British HYDE PARK: Le Metro
32 London Bridge Street, SE1 9SG SOUTH KENSINGTON AND at the Levin Hotel ££
Tel 020 3011 1256 HYDE PARK: British Map B4
Enjoy creative British cuisine on Café Mona Lisa £ 28 Basil Street, SW3 1AS
the 31st floor of the Shard. French Tel 020 7589 6286
417 King’s Road, SW10 0LR Genteel basement brasserie
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: Tel 020 7376 5447 serving delectable fare and
Hawksmoor £££ Popular café with friendly service featuring a good wine list.
Steak House and warm interiors. Delicious Afternoon tea is also available.
157 Commercial Street, E1 6BJ French fare, with daily specials.
Tel 020 7426 4850 SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Succulent steaks (prepared from SOUTH KENSINGTON AND HYDE PARK: Rocca di Papa ££
Longhorn cattle and dry-aged) HYDE PARK: Jak’s £ Italian Map B4
are cooked on a charcoal grill. Mediterranean 73 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3JS
Hawksmoor is a carnivore’s delight. 77 Walton Street, SW3 2HT Tel 020 7225 3413
Tel 020 7584 3441 Formerly part of Christie’s
Savor a range of healthy, organic Auction House, this vibrant
DK Choice dishes and tempting desserts in establishment delivers upscale
THE CITY AND SOUTHWARK: a country-style back room. Italian fare such as tagliolini with
Oxo Tower Restaurant, white Cornish crab meat and
Bar and Brasserie £££ SOUTH KENSINGTON AND chili. Terrific wine list too.
European Map E3 HYDE PARK: The Abingdon ££
Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House International SOUTH KENSINGTON AND
Street, SE1 9GY 54 Abingdon Road, W8 6AP HYDE PARK: Bibendum £££
Tel 020 7803 3888 Tel 020 7937 3339 French Map B4
The delectable food and A converted pub with a refined Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road,
international wine list at Oxo are feel and great brasserie-style food. SW3 6RD
complemented by breathtaking Opt for the comfortable booths. Tel 020 7581 5817
eighth-floor views: colorful by Michelin House’s Art Nouveau
day, glittering by night. Choose SOUTH KENSINGTON AND stained glass makes for a
between the relaxed brasserie HYDE PARK: E&O ££ stunning backdrop to this airy
and sophisticated restaurant. Asian Fusion first-floor dining room. Come for
Terrace seating in the summer. 14 Blenheim Crescent, W11 1NN superb seasonal French cuisine
Tel 020 7229 5454 and excellent service.
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND main modern art gallery. Ditch

HYDE PARK: Dinner by Southern England the art, and concentrate on the
Heston Blumenthal £££ fabulous food. Free snacks at
British Map B4 BRIGHTON: 24 St. Georges ££ 5:30pm on most Fridays.
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, British
66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA 25 St. George’s Road, East Sussex, CARDIFF: Clink £
Tel 020 7201 3833 BN2 1ED British
London’s much hyped restaurant Tel 01273 626 060 Closed Sun & Mon HMP Cardiff, Knox Road, CF24 0UG
showcases this celebrity chef’s Local and seasonal produce is Tel 029 2092 3130
inspired take on British cuisine. used here to create a regularly Run as a charity, this restaurant is
changing menu of delicious food. staffed by prisoners and the food
SOUTH KENSINGTON AND is terrific. No alcohol served.
HYDE PARK: Restaurant CANTERBURY: Kathton House ££
Gordon Ramsay £££ European ST. IVES: Porthminster
French Map B4 6 High Street, Sturry, Kent, CT2 0BD Beach Café ££
68 Royal Hospital Road, Tel 01227 719 999 Closed Sun & Mon Café
SW3 4HP Upmarket modern restaurant. Porthminster Beach, Cornwall,
Tel 020 7352 4441 Closed Sat & Sun Try the crab ravioli and loin fillet TR26 2EB
Standards remain high at Gordon of Godmersham venison. Tel 01736 795 352
Ramsay’s three-Michelin-starred This award-winning beach café
shrine to haute cuisine. It is EMSWORTH: 36 on the Quay £££ serves local specialties with an
very expensive, but the menu British/European emphasis on seafood. Good
is truly exciting. 47 South Street, Hampshire, PO10 7EG kids’ and vegetarian menus.
Tel 01243 375 592 Closed Sun & Mon
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Overlooking the bay in a fishing
Hard Rock Café ££ village, 36 on the Quay serves DK Choice
American Map C4 excellent Michelin-starred cuisine. WRINGTON:
150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ The Ethicurean £££
Tel 020 7514 1700 LEWES: Limetree Kitchen ££ Modern British
Savor American staples at this European Barley Wood Walled Garden,
famous eatery with a fascinating 14 Station Street, East Sussex, BN7 2DA Somerset, BS40 5SA
collection of rock memorabilia. Tel 01273 478 636 Closed Mon & Tue Tel 01934 863 713 Closed Mon
Open for breakfast through to The Ethicurean is an
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: evening meals, the fare ranges outstanding café-restaurant
Sheekey ££ from eggs Benedict to sorbets. that serves dynamic and
Fish Map D3 experimental organic food.
28–32 St. Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL WINCHESTER: Kyoto Kitchen £ Overlooking the Mendip Hills,
Tel 020 7240 2565 Japanese it is worth the trek, especially
This legendary seafood restaurant 70 Parchment Street, Hampshire, in the fall. Delicious coffee
and oyster bar is the perfect pre- SO23 8AT and sticky-toffee apple cake.
or post-theater venue. Tel 01962 890 895
Specializing in sushi and sashimi,
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Kyoto Kitchen provides a good
Murano £££ introduction to Japanese cuisine.
European Map C4 Great presentation and service. Central England
20 Queen Street, W1J 5PP
Tel 020 7495 1127 Closed Sun BIRMINGHAM: Purnell’s £££
Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred British
restaurant offers spectacular The West Country 55 Cornwall St., West Midlands, B3 2DH
modern European cuisine, with a
bias towards Italian flavors.
and Wales Tel 01212 129 799 Closed Sun & Mon
Michelin-starred traditional British
AVEBURY: The Circle Café £ fare, such as roast suckling pig.
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Café
Nobu £££ Near Marlborough, Wiltshire
Japanese Map C4 Tel 01672 539 250
Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane, Stop here for tea and homemade
W1K 1LB cakes after a visit to Stonehenge.
Tel 020 7447 4747
Enjoy beautifully prepared BATH: Acorn ££
sashimi, tempura, and other Vegetarian
contemporary Japanese dishes 2 North Parade Passage, Somerset,
while spotting celebrities. BA1 1NX
Tel 01225 446 059
WEST END AND WESTMINSTER: Innovative and interesting small
Veeraswamy £££ veggie dishes here include carrot
Indian Map C3 and cashew paté, and smoked
Victory House, 99 Regent Street, field mushroom.
W1B 4RS
Tel 020 7734 1401 BRISTOL: Arnolfini £
This London institution, opened Café
in 1926, offers contemporary 16 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA
and classic Indian dishes in lush Tel 01179 172 300 Dinners enjoy freshly prepared Japanese
interiors that evoke a royal palace. Italian-inspired café in the city’s cuisine at Nobu in Mayfair, London
CAMBRIDGE: The Oak Bistro ££

European
6 Lensfield Road, CB2 1EG
Tel 01223 323 361 Closed Sun &
bank hols
This bistro has a beautiful walled
garden to dine in when the
weather allows. Try the filet of
sea bream or the roasted lamb.
SOUTHWOLD:
Sutherland House £££
Seafood
56 High Street, Suffolk, IP18 6DN
Tel 01502 724 544 Closed Oct–Mar:
Mon
Sutherland House’s superb
dining room is the ideal setting
to enjoy dishes such as seared
scallops and pan-fried wild sea
bass. The menu also features The entrance to The Peat Inn, in Cupar, Scotland
excellent game dishes.
Ingredients are sourced locally. LEEDS: Salvo’s ££ such as leek, tarragon, and
Italian butternut-squash risotto. Try
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON: 107/115 Otley Rd., Headingley, LS6 3PX the tartlet made with creamy
The Opposition Bistro £ Tel 01132 755 017 Scottish Dunsyre blue cheese
International This innovative Italian restaurant and slow-dried tomatoes.
13 Sheep Street, Warwickshire, serves a contemporary menu in
CV37 6EF an informal ambience. It also has FINDHORN: The Bakehouse £
Tel 01789 269 980 Closed Sun a well-stocked salumeria (deli). Café
except bank hols 91–92 Forres, IV36 3YG
The Opposition Bistro’s timber- MANCHESTER: Wahaca £ Tel 01309 691 826
framed interior creates a great Mexican The Bakehouse is renowned
atmosphere. Come here to enjoy The Corn Exchange, M4 3TR for its organic produce. Meat
traditional bistro standards, such Tel 0161 413 7493 options include tasty pork and
as fish cakes and steak. Cool restaurant and takeaway venison burgers. Mouthwatering
serving beautifully cooked home baking, too.
Mexican street food.
FORT WILLIAM:
Northern England The Lime Tree ££
Modern Scottish
AMBLESIDE: Fellini’s £ Scotland The Old Manse, Achintore Road,
Vegetarian PH33 6RQ
Church Street, Cumbria, LA22 0BT CUPAR: The Peat Inn £££ Tel 01397 701 806
Tel 01539 432 487 Pubs Highly praised hotel-restaurant
This stylish modern vegetarian Near St. Andrews, Fife, KY15 5LH famous for its warm service and
place is attached to a small but Tel 01334 840 206 Closed Sun excellent food. Specialties
glamorous arthouse cinema. & Mon include pan-seared Glenfinnan
The menu at this Michelin- venison, mackerel, West Coast
BOLTON ABBEY: Devonshire starred rural retreat expertly crab, and smoked haddock.
Arms Brasserie £ utilizes local produce, such as
British/French salmon, langoustine, and beef. GLASGOW: Café Gandolfi £
Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 6AJ Diners get to savor dishes from Café
Tel 01756 710 710 the multicourse tasting menu. 64 Albion Street, G1 1NY
Enjoy British and French cuisine Tel 01415 526 813
in a coaching inn dating back DUNDEE: Jute Café Bar £ Café Gandolfi is a Glasgow
to 1753. Informal atmosphere. Café institution and part of the
Dundee Contemporary Arts, Gandolfi mini-empire. Come
152 Nethergate, DD1 4DY here for great breakfasts, light
DK Choice Tel 01382 909 246 lunches, or substantial dinners.
CARTMEL: L’Enclume £££ This artistic café at the Dundee A relaxed dining experience.
British Contemporary Arts center serves
Cavendish Street, Cumbria, light lunches, as well as a three- TYNDRUM:
LA11 6PZ course evening meal. The menu The Real Food Café £
Tel 01539 536 362 includes dishes such as steak, as Café
An ancient building with rough well as chocolate torte. Perthshire, FK20 8RY
limewashed walls and low Tel 01838 400 235
beams is the rustic setting for EDINBURGH: David Bann £ The Real Food Café serves
some extraordinary food. Savor Vegetarian arguably the best fish ’n’ chips
local cuisine that is partly 56–58 St. Mary’s Street, EH1 1SX in the whole of Scotland. Diners
foraged and presented with Tel 01315 565 888 can enjoy a large or small fish
close attention to detail. A stylish fine-dining restaurant supper and sample excellent
with delicious vegetarian dishes, coffee as well as cakes.
B R I TA I N A N D I R E L A N D  111
IRELAND
It is easy to see Ireland as a lush, green island dotted with quaint, thatched
cottages and friendly pubs filled with music, wit, and poetry. Despite the
contrasting reality of rapid economic growth and fundamental political change,
the tourist industry helps sustain this image of rural bliss, and the genuine good
humor of the people invariably makes Ireland a most welcoming place to visit.
History and religion have created two 2010 was paid off within three years. The
communities in Ireland, with the Protestant economy is slowly recovering. Agriculture
majority in the North determined to remain remains a mainstay, with dairy cattle
part of the United Kingdom. In the latter feeding on rich meadowlands and sheep
half of the 20th century, violent attacks in grazing on the poorer upland pastures.
Northern Ireland tarnished the world’s view The traditional Irish talent for breeding
of the country, but in 1998 the Good Friday and training racehorses is undiminished.
Agreement brought new hopes for peace. Tourism also thrives, with more than 6.5
Despite the Troubles of the past, the Irish million visitors to the Republic each year.
retain a positive attitude. The Republic of Dublin is one of Europe’s hotspots for a
Ireland, formerly one of the poorer countries weekend break, as well as being a tech
of the European Union, became one of its hub, with many media companies having
success stories during the economic boom their headquarters there.
known as the “Celtic Tiger” years. Between
1990 and 2007, the economy saw growth History
of between 7 and 11 percent annually. But In the past, Ireland’s isolation cut it off
in 2008, it became evident that the inflated from many of the major events of
economy was built on an unsustainable European history. Roman legions never
property bubble. The worldwide recession invaded, and the country’s early history
did not spare Ireland, but an €85 billion is shrouded in myths of warring gods
bailout provided by the EU and IMF in and heroic High Kings.
Dingle, a picturesque fishing harbor in southwest Ireland

O’Brien’s Tower, on top of the majestic Cliffs of Moher, in County Clare, Ireland
Direct English control was usually limited

to the “Pale,” the well-defended area
around Dublin. Matters changed when, in
1532, Henry VIII broke with the Catholic
church. Ireland became a battleground
between Irish Catholics and English
armies dispatched to crush resistance.
Irish lands were confiscated and granted
to Protestants from England and Scotland.
England’s conquest was completed with
O’Connell Street in Dublin just after the Easter Rising of 1916
William of Orange’s victory over James II
The bellicose Celtic tribes were quick to in 1690. During the English Ascendancy,
embrace Christianity in the 5th century repressive Penal Laws denied Irish
AD. Until the Viking invasions of the 9th Catholics the most basic freedoms, but
century, Ireland enjoyed an era of relative opposition to English rule was never
peace. Huge monasteries were founded, totally quashed.
where scholarship and the arts flourished. The Famine of 1845–8 was the bleakest
The Vikings never succeeded in gaining period of Irish history. More than two
control of the island, but in 1169, the million either died or were forced to
English arrived with greater ambitions. emigrate. A campaign for Home Rule
Many Irish chiefs submitted to Henry II of gathered strength, but it took the war of
England, and his Anglo-Norman knights 1919–21 to force the issue. The Treaty of
carved out large fiefdoms for themselves. 1921 divided the island in two. The South
became the Irish Free State, gaining full
KEY DATES IN IRISH HISTORY independence in 1937. The Catholic
minority in Northern Ireland suffered
8th century BC Humans first inhabit Ireland
under Protestant rule, and in the late
600 BC Arrival of Celts from Europe and Britain
1960s began to stage civil-rights protests.
AD 432 St. Patrick brings Christianity to Ireland
795 First Viking invasion
The situation quickly got out of hand.
999 Viking king of Dublin defeated by Irish High King,
The British sent in troops and acts of
Brian Boru terrorism and sectarian violence took
1169 Anglo-Norman invasion; Henry II of England the place of reasoned dialogue.
proclaims himself overlord of Ireland
1541 Henry VIII declared King of Ireland Language and Culture
1690 William of Orange defeats James II at Battle of Ireland was a Gaelic-speaking nation until
the Boyne
the 16th century, when English rule sent
1695 Penal Laws restrict civil rights of Catholics
the language into decline. The Republic
1801 Act of Union with Britain
today is officially bilingual, and 35 percent
1828 Catholic Emancipation Act
of adults claim to know some Gaelic.
1845–8 Potato Famine leaves one million dead
Many speak it fluently, but perhaps only
1916 Easter Rising
3 percent use it regularly. Some degree of
1921 Anglo-Irish treaty divides Ireland into the Irish
Free State and Northern Ireland knowledge is needed for careers in the
1937 The Irish Free State becomes entirely public sector. Irish culture, on the other
independent of Britain and is renamed Eire hand, is in no danger of being eroded.
1969 British troops sent to Northern Ireland The people have a genuine love of
1998 Good Friday Agreement sets out framework for legends, literature, and songs, and festivals
self-government in Northern Ireland
play an important part in community life.
2005 Provisional IRA announces full ceasefire
Traditional and modern music flourishes,
2008 Crisis in the banking system ends boom
whether at well-attended concerts or
2013 An €85 bn bailout by the EU and IMF is paid off
impromptu sessions in the local pub.
IRELAND  113
Exploring Ireland
Dublin is Ireland’s chief attraction, a small, friendly
capital with most of its sights and lively nightlife
concentrated in the center. Elsewhere the pace
of life is less hectic and the country’s great appeal
is in its landscape: from the lush green pastures,
bogs, and lakes of the center of the island to
dramatic mountains and bleak, rocky
headlands in the southwest. Touring Jaunting car for hire in Killarney
by car is the most convenient way
to explore Ireland, which has a Old Bushmills
Distillery Giant’s
good-quality road network on Causeway
Londonderry
both sides of the border. Dunglow (Derry) Coleraine Troon,
Cairnryan
A2
Letterkenny
N13
A26
A29
N 56
A6
A5
Donegal Ulster- N ORT H E RN Larne
American Lough Neagh M2
Rossnowlagh Folk Park Omagh
A32 IR E L A N D Belfast
Liverpool,
Lower Lough Erne A4 M1
Belmullet Hillsborough Douglas
A1
Sligo Enniskillen
N59 N16 Armagh Portaferry
Newcastle
7
N26
N1
Lough Conn Newry

Carrick-
N3
N4
on-Shannon
N5
Cavan Dundalk
Knock
N2
Westport
Lough
RE P U BLIC Monasterboice
IRISH
Letterfrack Mask N5
5 Kells
SEA
M1
Lough Drogheda
Roscommon
N1
Ree
Clifden N59 Newgrange
7
N63
Connemara
Lough
Corrib Athlone OF Mullingar
N2
M4
M3
Liverpool,
Galway M6 Castletown M1 Holyhead
M6 Clonfert Clonmacnoise House DUBLIN
ATLANTIC IRE LA N D
7
Dún Laoghaire
M
7
OCEAN Aran N6
Ennistimon Lough Port
Kildare Bray
Islands
M9
Laoise
on
Derg
nn
18
M7 Glendalough Wicklow
Sha
Ennis
M
N68 Carlow
Kilkee Bunratty Castle Arklow
Shannon
M8
N7
7
Limerick
Adare N2 Kilkenny N1
1
4
Cashel
Tipperary New
9
Slaney
N6
1
N2 Ross
N20
Tralee Cahir N24

Dingle
M9
Wexford
Killarney Mallow Waterford Pembroke,
Killorglin N72
Fermoy Fishguard
N2
5 Rosslare
8
M
Caherciveen Kenmare N2 Youghal

2
Cork
Sneem Bantry Midleton
N71 Cherbourg,
Roscoff
Skull Kinsale
Skibbereen 0 km 35
Roscoff
0 miles 35
Sights at a Glance Key

1 Dublin pp114–23 q Dingle Highway
2 Castletown House w Bunratty Castle
Highway under construction
3 Newgrange e Galway
Major road
4 Glendalough r Connemara
Railroad
5 Kilkenny t Aran Islands
6 Waterford y Belfast International border
7 Cashel u Giant’s Causeway
8 Cork i Old Bushmills Distillery
9 Kinsale o Ulster-American Folk Park
0 Killarney

Dublin
PER ET
1
UP STRE
Dublin Writers
Museum
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Although it is a fairly small city, Ireland’s capital is Hugh Lane
DO
Municipal Gallery
famous for its many pubs, and its rich cultural heritage GR of Modern Art
AN
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attracts millions of visitors each year. The Liffey River RO
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runs through the middle of the city, and was the
PA
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original source of its prosperity. The first harbor in
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outside Scandinavia on the site of the present city. D
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centuries. In the 20th century, Dublin established N
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its own identity and today it is
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CHURCH TCE IN
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Sights at a Glance AT
EY
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STR
STR
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AND
1 Trinity College
SWIFT’S
STR
CHA
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S TR AND
CHA
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QUA
2 Merrion Square
E
L ITT L
ST
Courts OND
NCER
ORM Millenium
EA S
SQUARE
ST W
R Bridge
3 National Gallery of Ireland P P E
Y PL
Y U AY
T
Grattan QU
Heuston Q U A
I N N S Q O N D Bridge TON
4 National Museum Station Father Mathew
U A Y O R M
i f f e y WE
LLI
NG
TEMPLE
L
FOWNES STEET
O'Donovan
STRE ET
Bridge
TEMP LE LANE
of Ireland – Archaeology M E R C H Rossa Bridge ESSEX
Q U AY ST
PARL
A N T ’ S Q U AY ST EA
Q U AY ES S E X
SOUT H
WOOD
LOW ST
N G E S T LO W E
SYCAMORE ST
MEETING CURVED
5 Grafton Street EXCHA R
FIS
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IAMEN
CRAN
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ST
WINET ET
GE
ET
EUSTACE
HA
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ESSEX T
6 Temple Bar
EXCHAN
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WES
BRID
STRE
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7 Dublin Castle
Y
GE
ALLE DA M E
S T R E E T COPPER
RD ST
GEORGE ’ S S T
C O O K
BR St Audoen's EDWA
ST M
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LORD
City Hall
8 St. Patrick’s Cathedral ID
EW
HILL
’S DAME
UP GE Church JOH N T
LAN
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S
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9 Christ Church Cathedral R CO

SCHO
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0 Dublinia and the Viking EET CA
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WERBURGH ST
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B
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St Werburgh's
NICH
Church
q The Liffey LA
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L
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w O’Connell Street ILL ET ST LITT
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FAD
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IFT SQ
IP
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e Parnell Square
ROSS ROAD
AN
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SO
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AS D
THOMST STH
ET
B R I D ER O A D P
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Greater Dublin (see inset map)

T
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BRI DE
O N S T R E ET
EP
CE
AT
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STREE
NE
L
r Guinness Storehouse
AN
LA
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t Phoenix Park
N
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ITE
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Key
Pedestrian street
DUBLIN  115
Greater Dublin Swords

NO
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IL
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H
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2
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DIN
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James Joyce
ER
M3
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Dublin
GE
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N2
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Finglas
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PA
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CD N4
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O’CO
Rotunda HA Kilmainham
AL B
RUG Grand Canal Douglas,
ET
Hospital
CATH REET
ST Clondalkin
Ballsbridge D ubl i n Holyhead
Ba y
NNE
M O
Rathmines
M A
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N7
THO
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Street by Street: Southeast Dublin

The area around College Green, dominated by the facades
of the Bank of Ireland and Trinity College, is very much the
heart of Dublin. The alleys and malls cutting across busy
pedestrianized Grafton Street boast many of Dublin’s better C N
Dublin OL E
stores, hotels, and restaurants. Just off Kildare Street are the LEGE GRE
Castle
Irish Parliament, the National Library, and the National
Museum of Ireland – Archaeology. To escape the city bustle,
many head for sanctuary on St. Stephen’s Green.
REET
The Bank of Ireland
ST
is a grand Georgian
S
edifice, originally built
N
F
as the Irish Parliament.
TO
F
O
L
AF
K
S
GR
T
Statue of Molly
Malone (1988)
Grafton Street
This popular pedestrian street is home to many
of Dublin’s best stores, such as Brown Thomas
(see p119).
T
EE
DU
R
KE
ST
ST
RE
N
ET
O
FT
A
R
St. Ann’s Church

G
This striking facade

of the 18th-century
church was added AN
NE
in 1868. The ST
interior features ST
H
lovely stained-
glass windows.
The Mansion House

ET
has been the offical

RE
residence of Dublin’s
ST
Lord Mayor since 1715.

ON
Fusiliers’ Arch (1907)

WS
DA
S
T.
S
T
E
P
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E
N
’S
G
R
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E
St. Stephen’s Green N
N
This relaxing city park is surrounded by many O
R
fine buildings. In summer, lunchtime concerts T
H
attract tourists and workers alike.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139

DUBLIN  117
O’Connell Bridge . Trinity College

The focal point of Parliament
Square, the largest of Trinity’s
spacious quadrangles, is the
elegant Italianate bell tower
known as the “Campanile.”
Designed by Sir Charles
Lanyon, it was erected in
1853 (see p118).
National Library
Saintly cherubs appear on the
frieze around the library’s
magnificent old reading room,
once a hangout
of novelist James Joyce.
N Leinster House
A
SS was taken over as the seat of
A
U the Irish Parliament in 1922.
ST
RE
ET
. National Museum of
ET
Ireland – Archaeology
RE
The collection of Irish antiquities

includes this bronze object from
ST
the 2nd century AD, known as

CK
the Petrie Crown (see p119).

RI
ED
FR
M
O
L
S TE S W
RE O
ETRT
H
T
EE
R
ST
E
R
A
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IL
0 meters 50
K
0 yards 50
The Shelbourne Hotel

Key Built in 1867, the hotel dominates the north side
H of St. Stephen’s Green. It is popular with tourists
Suggested route
and locals for afternoon tea.
alumni of more recent times 2 Merrion Square

include the playwrights Oscar £ DART to Pearse. @ 4, 7, 25, 44, 66
Wilde (1854–1900) and Samuel & many others.
Beckett (1906–89).
The oldest surviving part of Merrion Square is one of Dublin’s
the college is the red-brick largest and grandest Georgian
building (the Rubrics) on the squares. Covering about 5 ha
east side of Library Square, (12 acres), the square was laid
built around 1700. The Old out by John Ensor around 1762.
Library itself dates from 1732. On the west side are the
Its spectacular Long Room impressive facades of the Natural
measures 64 m (210 ft) from History Museum, the National
end to end. It houses 200,000 Gallery of Ireland, and the
antiquarian texts, marble busts front garden of Leinster House,
View down the central aisle of Trinity of scholars and seat of the Dáil
College’s Old Library the oldest harp in and the Seanad
Ireland. Below the (the two houses
1 Trinity College Library is the of the Irish Parlia-
College Green. Tel 01-896 2320. £ Treasury, where the ment). The other
DART to Pearse. @ 4, 7, 10, 14, 15, 46, college’s most three sides of
48 & many others. Old Library and precious volumes the square are
Treasury: Open daily. Closed 10 days at – the beautifully lined with lovely
Christmas. & 7 ∑ tcd.ie illuminated Georgian town-
manuscripts houses. Many have
Trinity was founded in 1592 produced in Ireland brightly painted
by Elizabeth I on the site of an from the 7th to the doors and original
Augustinian monastery as a 9th century – are features, such
bastion of Protestantism. It kept. The most as wrought-iron
was not until the 1970s that famous, the Book Portrait of St. Matthew from balconies, ornate
Catholics started entering the of Kells (see p127), the Book of Kells doorknockers,
university. Its cobbled quads may have been and fanlights.
and lawns still have a monastic created by monks from Iona, The oldest and finest houses
feel, providing a pleasant haven who fled to Kells in 806 after are on the north side.
in the heart of the city. In front a Viking raid. The scribes Many of the houses – now
of the main entrance, on College embellished the text with predominantly used as office
Green, are statues of two of intricate patterns as well as space – have plaques
Trinity’s most famous 18th- human figures and animals. detailing famous former
century students, playwright Almost as fine is the Book occupants, such as Catholic
Oliver Goldsmith and political of Durrow, which dates from emancipation leader Daniel
writer Edmund Burke. Literary the late 7th century. O’Connell (No. 58), and poet
Facade of Trinity College, Dublin, the Republic’s most prestigious university

DUBLIN  119
coins, pottery, and swords

excavated in the 1970s from
the Viking settlement,
discovered beside the Liffey
at Wood Quay near Christ
Church Cathedral (see p121).
The Museum has another
branch at Benburb Street,
west of the city center. Housed
in the vast Collins Barracks,
established in 1700 by William
III, is the National Museum of
Georgian townhouses overlooking Merrion Square gardens Ireland – Decorative Arts &
History. The principal exhibits
W.B. Yeats (No. 82). Oscar Wilde entrance to the gallery is via are the museum’s collections
spent his childhood at No. 1. the Millennium Wing on Clare of furniture, silver, weaponry,
The attractive central park Street. and scientific instruments, as
has colorful flower and shrub well as an exhibition on the
beds. In the 1840s, it served a 4 National Museum 1916 Easter Rising and events
grim function as a soup kitchen,
feeding the hungry during the
of Ireland – that occurred in the decade
1913–1923.
Great Famine. Archaeology
Kildare St. Tel 01-677 7444. £ DART
to Pearse. v Luas green line to St.
3 National Gallery Stephen’s Green. @ 15, 25, 38, 140 &
of Ireland many others. Open Tue–Sat & 2–5pm
Merrion Square West & Clare St. Sun. Closed Good Fri & Dec 25. 8
^ - = 7 ground floor only.
Tel 01-661 5133. £ DART to Pearse.
∑ museum.ie
@ 4, 7, 25, 44 & many others.
Open 9:15am–5:30pm Mon–Sat (to
8:30pm Thu), 11am–5.30pm Sun. The National Museum of
Closed Good Fri & Dec 24–26. 8 ^ Ireland – Archaeology was
7 - = 0 ∑ nationalgallery.ie built in the 1880s to the
design of Sir Thomas Deane.
This purpose-built gallery was Its splendid domed rotunda
opened to the public in 1864. features marble pillars and
It houses more than 15,000 a zodiac mosaic floor. The
works of art from the 13th ground floor holds Ór –
century to the present day, with Ireland’s Gold, a collection of 7th-century plaque depicting the
a significant collection of works Bronze Age finds, including Crucifixion, National Museum
from the Italian, French, Flemish, many beautiful pieces of
and Dutch schools. The fine art jewelry. Objects from the later
collection is made up of celebra- Iron Age Celtic period are on
5 Grafton Street
ted masterpieces by the likes of display in the Treasury. There @ 14, 15, 46 & many others.
Rembrandt, Vermeer, Gains- are also many well-known
borough, Renoir, Picasso, and treasures from the era of Irish The spine of Dublin’s most
Van Gogh. The NGI also holds Christianity (see pp126–7). The stylish shopping district runs
the most important collection first floor houses Viking artifacts south from College Green to
of Irish painting, dating from and the Ancient Egypt gallery. the glass St. Stephen’s Green
the 17th century, plus a The Viking exhibition features Shopping Centre. This busy
section dedicated to pedestrianized strip, with
the works of Jack B. its energetic buskers and
Yeats (1871–1957). talented street-theater artists,
The gallery is boasts one of Dublin’s best
currently undergoing department stores, Brown
a major program of Thomas, and popular
refurbishment of its traditional pubs hidden
historic Dargan and along the side streets.
Milltown wings, which At the junction with Nassau
date from the mid- Street is a statue by Jean
19th century. The Rynhart of Molly Malone (1988),
work is scheduled for the celebrated “cockles and
completion in late mussels” street trader of the
2016. Until then, Vermeer’s Woman Writing a Letter, National Gallery of Ireland well-known Irish folk song.
the land in the early 1600s. The 8 St. Patrick’s

term “bar” meant a riverside
path. In the 1800s, it was home
Cathedral
to small businesses, but over St. Patrick’s Close. Tel 01-453 9472.
the years went into decline. @ 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 151. Open daily.
In the early 1960s, the land Closed Dec 25 (pm) & 26. & 7
∑ stpatrickscathedral.ie
was bought up with plans
for redevelopment. Artists
and retailers took short-term Ireland’s largest church was
leases, but stayed on when founded beside a sacred well
the plans were scrapped where St. Patrick is said to
and Temple Bar have baptized converts
prospered. Today, it is around AD 450. It was
an exciting place, with originally just a
restaurants, wooden chapel, but in
bars, clubs, shops, 1192, Archbishop John
Shoppers in Temple Bar and galleries. Comyn commissioned
Organizations based a magnificent new
6 Temple Bar here include the Irish stone structure.
@ 11, 16A, 46A & many others. Film Institute, which The cathedral is
n Project Arts Centre: 39 East has three screens, as Jonathan Swift, Dean of 91 m (300 ft) long; at
Essex Street. Tel 01-881 9613. well as a bookshop St. Patrick’s from 1713 the western end is a
Open 11am– 8pm Mon–Sat; and café, Project 43 m (141 ft) tower,
shows nightly. - 7 Arts Centre, a contemporary- restored by Archbishop Minot
arts center for theater, dance, in 1370 and now known as the
The area of cobbled streets film, music, and visual art, and Minot Tower. Much of the present
between Dame Street and the Gallery of Photography, building dates back to work
the Liffey are named after Sir the only Irish art gallery completed between 1254 and
William Temple, who acquired devoted solely to photographs. 1270. Thanks to the generosity
7 Dublin Castle Picture Gallery
For seven centuries, Dublin Castle was

a symbol of English rule, ever since the
Anglo-Normans built a fortress here in
the 13th century. Remnants of the early
structure include the Record Tower, the
Entrance to
butt of the Powder Tower, and parts of
State Apartments
the curtain wall. After a fire in 1684, the
Surveyor-General, Sir William Robinson,
laid down the plans for the Upper Castle
Yard in its present form. On the first floor
of the south side of the Upper Yard are the
luxurious State Apartments. The Chester
Beatty Library has artistic and religious
treasures from around the world.
Bermingham Tower
can be viewed at
Ship St Gate. It Octagonal
served as a prison Tower
and as a storage (c.1812) Record
place for adminis- Tower
tration records.
The Throne Room dates

St. Patrick’s Hall from the 18th century. The
This grand hall is hung with banners of the throne itself is said to have
Knights of St. Patrick. The 18th-century been built for King George
ceiling paintings are allegories of the IV in 1821.
relationship between Britain and Ireland.
DUBLIN  121
of Sir Benjamin Guinness, the 9 Christ Church

cathedral underwent extensive Cathedral
restoration during the 1860s.
The interior is dotted with Christchurch Place. Tel 01-677 8099.
@ 13, 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 123. Open
memorials. The most elaborate
is the one erected in 1632 by daily. Closed Dec 26 & 27. & 7
limited. ∑ christchurchdublin.ie
Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, in
memory of his second wife
Katherine. It is decorated with The cathedral was
painted carvings of members commissioned in 1172
of the Boyle family. Others by Richard de Clare, known
remembered in the church as Strongbow, the Anglo-
include the harpist Turlough Norman conqueror of Dublin,
O’Carolan (1670–1738) and and by Archbishop Laurence
Douglas Hyde (1860–1949), O’Toole. It replaced an earlier
Ireland’s first President. wooden church built by the
Many visitors come to see the Vikings. During the Reform-
memorials associated with ation, the cathedral passed
Jonathan Swift (1667–1745), to the Protestant Church of
Dean of St. Patrick’s and a Ireland. It was remodeled by Christ Church Cathedral viewed from the east,
scathing satirist best known as architect George Street in the with the Old Synod Hall behind
the author of Gulliver’s Travels. In 1870s. Even so, the north wall,
the south aisle is “Swift’s Corner,” the one closest to the river, still In the atmospheric crypt are
which has memorabilia, such as leans out alarmingly as a result fragments removed from the
an altar table and his death of subsidence. As part of the cathedral during its restoration.
mask. On the southwest side of remodeling, the Old Synod There are also the mummified
the nave, two brass plates mark Hall was built and linked to bodies of a cat and a rat found in
his grave and that of his the cathedral by an attractive an organ pipe in the 1860s. There
beloved “Stella,” Ester Johnson. covered bridge. is a permanent exhibition of the
cathedral’s treasures as well.
The nave has some fine early
Bedford VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Gothic arches. At the west end
Tower (1760) is a memorial known as the
Practical Information Strongbow Monument. The
Off Dame St. Tel 01-645 8813. large effigy in chain armor is
Open daily (Sun pm only). probably not Strongbow, but
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, the curious half-figure beside
Dec 24–28. & 8 obligatory. it may be part of his original
Chester Beatty Library: tomb. The Chapel of St. Laud
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.
houses a casket containing the
Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec
heart of St. Laurence O’Toole.
24–26, public hols.
∑ dublincastle.ie
0 Dublinia and the
Transport
@ 49, 77A, 123. Viking World
St. Michael’s Hill. Tel 01-679 4611.
@ 13, 49, 54A, 123. Open daily.
Closed Dec 24–26. & 7
∑ dublinia.ie
Entrance to
Housed in the Neo-Gothic
Upper Yard
Synod Hall, which is linked
by a bridge to Christ Church
Lower Yard
Cathedral, this heritage center
covers the period of Dublin’s
history from the arrival of the
Anglo-Normans in 1170 to
Government the closure of the monasteries
offices in the 1540s. An audio tour
Figure of Justice takes visitors through lifesize
Cynical Dubliners have joked that reconstructions of the medieval
this statue above the castle city. There is also a Viking
Chapel Royal entrance appears to be warship and an interactive
(1814) turning her back on the city. archaeology exhibition.
James Gandon’s Four Courts, overlooking the River Liffey
q The Liffey Gandon at the end of the 18th rights in the 19th century.
century. In 1921, supporters The street was laid out in the
@ 25, 25A, 51, 66, 66A, 67, 67A, 68, 69
of Sinn Féin celebrated their 18th century as an elegant
and many others.
election victory by setting residential parade, but the
Though modest in size light to the Custom House, construction of Carlisle (now
compared with the rivers of seen as a symbol of British O’Connell) Bridge in 1790
other capital cities, the Liffey imperialism. The building turned it into the city’s
features strongly in Dubliners’ was not fully restored until principal north-south route.
everyday lives and holds a 1991, when it reopened as As a result, little remains of
special place in their affections. government offices. A its intended grandeur.
The handiest pedestrian link series of 14 magnificent A few venerable
between Temple Bar (see p120) heads by Edward Smyth, buildings survive,
and the north of the city is personifying Ireland’s including the General
Ha’penny Bridge. This attractive, rivers and the Atlantic Post Office, which
cast-iron bridge, originally called Ocean, form the became a symbol of the
Wellington Bridge, was opened keystones of arches 1916 Easter Rising.
in 1816. Its official name now and entrances. Members of the Irish
is the Liffey Bridge. Its better- The Four Courts Volunteers and
known nickname comes from suffered a similar Irish Citizen
the toll of a halfpenny levied fate during the Army seized the
on it up until 1919. Irish Civil War of building on
The two most impressive 1921–2, when it The monument to Easter Monday,
buildings on the Liffey are the was bombarded Daniel O’Connell and Patrick
Custom House and the Four by government Pearse read out
Courts, both designed by James troops after being seized by the Proclamation of the Irish
anti-Treaty rebels. Here too, Republic from its steps. The
the buildings were restored to rebels remained inside for a
their original design. A copper- week, but shelling from the
covered lantern dome rises British eventually forced them
above a Corinthian portico out. During the following
crowned with the figures of weeks, 14 of the leaders were
Moses, Justice, and Mercy. caught and shot. Inside the
building is a sculpture of the
mythical Irish hero Cuchulainn,
w O’Connell Street dedicated to those who died,
and a small museum tells the
@ 2, 3, 11, 13, 16A, and many others.
history of the postal service.
Dublin’s main thoroughfare, A walk up the central mall is
formerly called Sackville Street, the best way to inspect the
was renamed in 1922 after series of sculptures lining the
Daniel O’Connell, who was route. At the south end stands
Carved head representing the River known as the “Liberator” for his a massive memorial to Daniel
Liffey, Custom House tireless campaigns for Catholic O’Connell, unveiled in 1882.
DUBLIN  123
In the middle is an elegant r Guinness

spire and at the north end is Storehouse
the monument to Charles
St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel 01-408
Stewart Parnell (1846–91).
4800. @ 51B, 78A, 123. Open daily.
Closed Good Fri, Dec 24–26, Jan 1.
&7-0=
e Parnell Square ∑ guinness-storehouse.com
@ 3, 11A, 13, 16A, 19A, 38 and many
Guinness is a black beer, known
others. Dublin Writers Museum: 18
Parnell Sq North. Tel 01-872 2077. as “stout,” renowned for its
Open daily. Closed Dec 25 & 26. distinctive malty flavor and
& ∑ writersmuseum.com smooth creamy head. The The Phoenix Column
Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane: Guinness brewery site at St.
Charlemont House. Tel 01-222 5550. James’s Gate is the largest brew- t Phoenix Park
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Dec 24–27 & ery in Europe, and exports beers Park Gate, Conyngham Rd, Dublin 8.
public hols. ∑ hughlane.ie to more than 120 countries. @ 25, 66, 67, 68, 69. Open daily.
The World of Guinness Visitor Center: Tel 01-677 0095.
The square at the top of exhibition is housed in a 19th- Open daily (Jan–Mar: Wed–Sun only).
O’Connell Street looks sadly century warehouse, used for 7 limited. Zoo: Tel 01-474 8900.
neglected. Even so, it contains a hop storage until the 1950s. It Open daily. & = - 0 7
number of noteworthy sights, chronicles 200 years of brewing ∑ dublinzoo.ie
including the Rotunda Hospital, at St. James’s Gate. The tour starts
Europe’s first purpose-built in a Victorian kieve (or mash Just to the west of the city
maternity hospital, opened in filter), and goes on to examine center, ringed by an 11-km
1757. Its chapel has some fine all other stages of the brewing (7-mile) wall, is Europe’s largest
Rococo stuccowork. The former process. Displays show how enclosed city park. The name
grand supper room of production methods “Phoenix” is said to be a
the hospital is now the have changed over corruption of the Gaelic Fionn
Gate Theatre, famous the years since Uisce, or “clear water.” The
for producing 1759, when Arthur Phoenix Column is crowned by a
new plays. Guinness took over statue of the mythical bird. The
On the north side the backstreet park originated in 1662, when
of the square, two brewery. Guinness the Duke of Ormonde turned
grand 18th-century started brewing ale, the land into a deer park. It was
townhouses have but was aware of a opened to the public in 1745.
been converted into Arthur Guinness black beer called Near Park Gate is the lakeside
museums: the Dublin “porter,” popular in People’s Garden. A little further
Writers Museum, devoted to London’s markets. He developed on are the Zoological Gardens,
Irish literature, and the Dublin a new recipe for porter (the which are renowned for the
City Gallery, The Hugh Lane. The word “stout” was not used until breeding of lions, including
latter houses the Impressionist the 1920s). So successful was the first mascot to feature in the
paintings bequeathed to Dublin the switch that he made his introduction to the MGM movies.
Corporation by Sir Hugh Lane, first export shipment in 1769. The park has two very
who died on the torpedoed liner The tour ends with a conspicuous monuments. The
Lusitania in 1915. The square also complimentary pint of Guinness Wellington Testimonial is a 63 m
has a Garden of Remembrance, in the Granty Bar, where visitors (204 ft) obelisk, begun in 1817
opened in 1966, on the 50th can also enjoy 360-degree and completed in 1861. Its
anniversary of the Easter Rising. views of the city. bronze bas-reliefs were made
from captured French cannons.
The 27 m (90 ft) steel Papal
Cross marks the spot where
the pope said Mass in front of
one million people in 1979.
Buildings within the park
include two 18th-century
houses: Áras an Uachtaráin,
the Irish President’s official
residence, for which 525 tickets
are issued every Saturday for a
free guided tour, and Deerfield,
home of the US ambassador.
Ashtown Castle is a restored
17th-century tower house, now
The Gallery of Writers at the Dublin Writers Museum, Parnell Square the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre.
Southeast Ireland opening above the entrance to

the tomb – a feature unique to
Enjoying the warmest climate in Ireland, the southeast has Newgrange. The light travels
always presented an attractive prospect for invaders and along the 19-m (62-ft) passage
settlers. Its highlights include the Neolithic tombs in the and hits the central recess in the
burial chamber. It is thus the
Valley of the Boyne, early Christian monastic sites, and towns world’s oldest solar observatory.
such as Waterford that grew from Viking settlements. It is also Between 1962 and 1975, the
the setting for many great 18th-century houses built by the grave and the mound, or cairn,
ruling English aristocracy. The wildest landscapes of the covering it were restored. The
region are to be found in the forested hills and desolate retaining wall at the front of
the cairn was rebuilt using
moorland of the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin.
white quartz and granite
stones found scattered around
A portrait of Lady Louisa is the site. It is estimated that
incorporated in the superb the original tomb, created by
Rococo stuccowork by the people who had neither the
Francini brothers in the staircase wheel nor metal tools, may
hall. Another personal reminder have taken up to 70 years to
of Lady Louisa is the print room, build. About 200,000 tons of
the last surviving, intact loose stones were transported
example of its kind. In the to build the cairn. Larger slabs
18th century, ladies pasted were used to make the circle
prints directly on to the wall around the cairn and the
and framed them with retaining kerb. Many of the
elaborate festoons. kerbstones and the slabs lining
the passage and chamber are
decorated with zigzags, spirals,
3 Newgrange and other geometric motifs.
8 km (5 miles) E of Slane, Co. Meath. Each of the three recesses in
£ to Drogheda. @ to visitor center the central chamber contained
via Drogheda. Brú na Bóinne a chiseled “basin stone” that
Interpretive Centre: Tel 041-988 held funerary offerings and
0300. Open daily. Closed Dec 24–27. the bones of the dead. The
Elegant stuccoed hall and staircase at & 8 obligatory. ^ in tomb. chamber’s corbeled ceiling
Castletown House - = ∑ newgrange.com has proved completely
waterproof for 5,000 years.
2 Castletown The origins of Newgrange, one Newgrange is very popular,
House of the most important passage especially in summer, so queues
graves in Europe, are steeped in are likely and you have to wait
Celbridge, Co. Kildare. Tel 01-628 8252.
@ 67, 67A from Dublin. Open mid- mystery. Built around 3200 BC, it your turn at the Brú na Bóinne
Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid- was rediscovered in 1699. When Interpretive Centre. This has
Mar: grounds only. & 8 obligatory. it was excavated in the 1960s, displays on the area’s Stone Age
^ - 7 limited. ∑ castletown.ie archaeologists realized that at heritage. The tour includes the
dawn on the winter solstice nearby tomb at Knowth. The last
Built in 1722–32 for William (December 21), a beam of one starts at 3:15pm in winter
Conolly, Speaker of the Irish sunlight shines through the and at 5:15pm in midsummer.
Parliament, Castletown was
Ireland’s first grand Palladian-
style country house. Most of the
interiors were commissioned by
Lady Louisa Lennox, wife of
Conolly’s great-nephew, Tom,
who lived here in the late 18th
century. It was she who added
the magnificent long gallery at
the top of the house, with its
Pompeiian-style friezes, cobalt-
blue walls, and niches framing
Classical statuary. From the long
gallery, visitors can admire the
curious obelisk-topped
memorial to Speaker Conolly,
erected by his widow in 1740. Aerial view of Newgrange, showing the cairn and circle of standing stones
IRELAND  125
5 Kilkenny + Kilkenny Castle

Co. Kilkenny. * 26,000. £ @ The Parade. Tel 056-770 4100.
n Shee Alms House, Rose Inn St Open daily. Closed Good Fri,
(056-775 1500). _ Kilkenny Arts Christmas (see website). & 8
Festival (Aug). ∑ kilkenny.ie obligatory. ^ 7 limited.
∑ kilkennycastle.ie
In a lovely setting beside the River
Nore, Kilkenny is Ireland’s most
attractive inland city. Many of its 6 Waterford
houses feature the local black Co. Waterford. * 49,000. £ @ 4
limestone, known as Kilkenny n 120 Parade Quay (051-875 823).
marble. The city is proud of its ( Sat. _ International Festival
heritage and hosts a major arts of Light Opera (Sep).
festival. It is also a brewery city, ∑ visitwaterford.com
filled with atmospheric old pubs.
Kilkenny Castle is a Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford
12th-century castle that was was founded by the Vikings
remodeled in Victorian times. It in 914, and later extended
Round tower at Glendalough is set in extensive parkland, and by the Anglo-Normans. Its
was the seat of the Butler family commanding position on the
4 Glendalough for almost 600 years from around Suir estuary made it southeast
Co. Wicklow. @ St. Kevin’s Bus from 1391 until 1967, when it was Ireland’s main port. The 18th
Dublin. Ruins: Open daily. 8 in presented to the people of century saw the establishment
summer. Visitor Center: Tel 0404- Kilkenny. Two wings of the castle of local industries, including the
45352. Open daily. Closed Dec 23–28. have been restored to their world-famous glassworks.
& 7 limited. ∑ glendalough.ie 19th-century splendor, and The remains of the city walls
include a library, a drawing define the area fortified by the
The steep, wooded slopes of room, and the magnificent Normans. The largest surviving
Glendalough, the “valley of the Long Gallery. The River Wing structure is Reginald’s Tower,
two lakes,” harbor one of houses the Butler Gallery of overlooking the river. Despite
Ireland’s most atmospheric Contemporary Art. the city’s medieval layout, most
ruined monasteries. Founded by The area known, in the days of its finest buildings are
St. Kevin in the 6th century, it of segregation, as English Georgian, including Christ
functioned as a monastic center Town boasts the city’s gran- church Cathedral, designed
until the Dissolution of the dest buildings, such as in the 1770s by local
Monasteries in 1539. Rothe House, a fine architect John Roberts.
Most of the buildings date Tudor merchant’s From June to August,
from the 10th to 12th centuries. house, built around there are pleasure
The reconstruction (see pp126–7) two courtyards. The Waterford Crystal decanter cruises on the river.
shows how the monastery may area of narrow alley- The Waterford
have looked in its heyday. The ways, or “slips,” is part of Kilkenny’s Crystal Factory lies 2.5 km (1.5
main ruins lie near the smaller medieval heritage. miles) south of the center. The
Lower Lake. You enter the The Irishtown district is original factory was founded in
monastery through the double dominated by St. Canice’s 1783, but closed in 1851. A new
stone arch of the gatehouse, Cathedral and a round tower factory opened in 1947.
from where a short walk leads that offers views of the city. The
to a graveyard with a restored Gothic cathedral dates from the E Waterford Crystal Factory
round tower in one corner. 13th century. It has a finely Kilbarry. Tel 051-317 000. Open Apr–
Other ruins include the roofless sculpted west door and an array Oct: 9am–4:15pm daily; Nov–Mar:
cathedral, the tiny Priest’s House of 16th-century tombs, with 9:30am–3:15pm Mon–Fri.
and St. Kevin’s Cross. Below, beautiful effigies of the Butler Closed Dec 21–Jan 4. & 8 7
∑ waterfordvisitorcentre.com
nestled in the lush valley, stands family, in the south transept.
a small oratory. It is popularly
known as St. Kevin’s Kitchen,
because its belfry resembles a
chimney.
A path along the south bank
of the river leads to the Upper
Lake and some of the other
buildings associated with
St. Kevin. Here, the scenery
is wilder and you are better
able to enjoy the tranquility
of Glendalough. Tomb of 2nd Marquess of Ormonde in St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny
Early-Celtic Christianity Conical roof
Lookout window
Ireland became Christian in the 5th century, following
the missions of St. Patrick and others. The situation was
soon reversed, with many Irish missionaries, such as St. Wooden floor
Columba and St. Columbanus, sailing to Great Britain, Movable ladder
France, and beyond. The Irish church developed more
Round towers, first
or less free from the control of Rome, but nevertheless built in the 10th
had strong links with the east. As in Egypt, the Christian century, were bell
faith inspired a proliferation of hermitages and remote houses, store houses,
monasteries. Decorative motifs in illuminated and landmarks for
approaching visitors.
manuscripts reflect Egyptian Christian imagery, and The entrance could
materials used in making the inks came from the Middle be 4 m (13 ft) above
East. The advent of the Vikings in the 9th century forced ground and was
the monasteries to take defensive measures, but they reached by a ladder.
continued to flourish despite frequent raids.
Refectory Abbot’s house
Celtic Monastery and kitchen
This reconstruction shows Glendalough (see p125) in
about 1100. Monasteries were probably the largest Craftsmen’s
centers of population in Ireland before the dwellings
Vikings started to found towns.
St. Mary’s
Church
The watermill The Magnus

Domus St. Kevin’s Church
Ireland’s High Crosses

High Crosses are found in parts of Britain as well as Ireland, yet in their
profusion and craftsmanship, Irish crosses are exceptional. The ringed
cross has become a symbol of Irish Christianity and is still imitated
today. The medieval High Crosses were carved between the 8th
and 12th centuries. Early ones, such as the 8th-century cross at
Ahenny, bore spirals and interlacing patterns, but in the 9th and
10th centuries, a new style emerged with sculpted scenes from
the Bible, “sermons in stone,” aimed at educating a largely
illiterate population.
Muiredach’s Cross at
Monasterboice is the finest
surviving example of a cross
carved with biblical scenes.
This panel shows the Fall of
Ornamental High Cross of the Scriptures,
Man: Eve offering Adam the
Cross at Ahenny Clonmacnoise
apple in the Garden of Eden
and Cain slaying Abel.

IRELAND  127
The Book of Kells Where to See Early

The most richly decorated of all Christian Sites in
the Irish illuminated manuscripts Ireland
dating from the 8th–10th Important early Christian
centuries, the Book of Kells sites besides Glendalough
contains the four gospels in include Clonmacnoise, the
Latin, copied onto leaves of Rock of Cashel (see p128),
high-quality vellum. It is Ahenny, Clonfert, Kells, and
remarkable both for the beauty Devenish Island. Though
of the script and for the inspired most of the monastic
fantasy of the illumination. There buildings are ruins, many
is no record of its existence have continued to be used
before the early 11th century, as cemeteries right up to
but it was probably created in modern times. Monasteries
about 800. It would have taken were built on the Aran
many years of work by the Page of the Genealogy of Christ from
Islands (see p131) and even
scriptorium of a monastery. It the Book of Kells
on the remote rocky Skellig
may have been brought to Kells Michael, off the Kerry Coast.
by monks from Iona who fled to Round towers and High
Ireland after a Viking raid in 806. The manuscript was moved to Crosses are preserved all over
Trinity College (see p118) in the 17th century for safe-keeping. Ireland, often standing
beside churches of much
more recent construction.
Gatehouse
Guesthouse Monks’
and stable dwellings
and barns
Clonmacnoise was
founded in the 6th century.
The monastery was noted
for its piety and scholarship.
Now it is an atmospheric
collection of ruins in a
remote spot on the
Shannon. This carved
Romanesque doorway is
The cathedral was the
The Crozier of the Abbots part of the Nun’s Church.
largest of the many
churches built in and of Clonmacnoise dates
around the monastery. from the 11th century. The
incised patterns on
the ornate silver
casing show the strong
influence of Viking designs.
The Voyage of St. Brendan is a Devenish Island has a fine

fantastic legend of early-medieval restored round tower and
Irish Christianity. The 6th-century enjoys a peaceful setting on
saint and his followers set sail into Lower Lough Erne. Lake
the Atlantic in a small boat, sighting islands were popular as
volcanic islands, ice floes, whales, monastic sites.
and even, some say, America.
Southwest Ireland combined with the Georgian

architecture of the old Quays,
Magnificent scenery has attracted visitors to this region since give Cork a continental feel. In
Victorian times. Killarney and its romantic lakes are a powerful the 18th century, many of
magnet for tourists, as is the attractive coastline of Cork and today’s streets were waterways
lined with warehouses and
Kerry, where rocky headlands jut out into the Atlantic and merchants’ residences.
colorful fishing villages nestle in the bays. Yet much of the Noted for its chic bars, ethnic
southwest remains unspoiled, with a friendly atmosphere restaurants, bookstores, and
and authentic culture still alive in Irish-speaking pockets. boutiques, Paul Street is the hub
of the liveliest district in town.
Church, and it flourished as a The nearby Crawford Art Gallery
religious center until a siege by has some fine Irish works of art.
a Cromwellian army in 1647 A prominent landmark is the
ended in the massacre of its steeple of St. Anne Shandon on
3,000 occupants. a hill in the north of the city. It is
A good proportion of the topped by a weather vane in
medieval complex still stands, the shape of a salmon. Visitors
though the main building, the can climb up and ring the bells.
Gothic cathedral, is roofless.
The earlier Cormac’s Chapel is E Crawford Art Gallery
an outstanding example of Emmet Place. Tel 0214-805 042.
Romanesque architecture. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm
The Rock of Cashel Other prominent features of Thu). Closed public hols, Jan 1,
the Rock are a restored round Dec 25 & 26. 0 - = 7
7 Cashel tower and the weatherbeaten ∑ crawfordartgallery.ie
Co. Tipperary. * 11,400. @ St. Patrick’s Cross. The carved

n Heritage Centre, Main St figure on the east face of the
(062- 62511). Rock: Tel 062-61437. cross is said to be St. Patrick.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26.
& 8 7 limited. ∑ cashel.ie
8 Cork
The town’s great attraction is Co. Cork. * 123,000. £ @
the magnificent medieval Rock n Tourist House, Grand Parade
of Cashel. Many people stay (0214-255 100). _ Jazz Festival (Oct);
overnight to enjoy eerie floodlit Film Festival (Nov).
views of the rocky stronghold
rising dramatically out of the Cork city derives its name from
Tipperary plain. The Rock was the marshy banks of the Lee
a symbol of royal and River – its Irish name, Corcaigh,
ecclesiastical power for more means marsh – where St. Finbarr The battlemented keep and other ruined
than a thousand years. From the founded a monastery around towers of Blarney Castle
5th century AD, it was the seat AD 650. The center of Cork today
of the Kings of Munster, rulers occupies an island between two Environs
of southwest Ireland. In 1101, arms of the river. Its waterways, Beautiful countryside surrounds
they handed Cashel over to the bridges, and narrow alleys, Cork, especially along the valley
of the Lee River. Outings include
a tour of the whiskey distilery
at the Jameson Experience,
Midleton, and a trip to Blarney
Castle, where a legendary stone
bestows magical eloquence on
all who kiss it. Walking and
fishing are also popular.
E Jameson Experience, Midleton

Midleton, Co. Cork. Tel 0214-613 594.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Good Fri,
Dec 24–27. & 8 = - 7
∑ jamesonwhiskey.com
+ Blarney Castle
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 0214-385252.
Open daily. Closed Dec 24 & 25. =
South channel of the Lee River flowing through the city of Cork 7 grounds only. ∑ blarneycastle.ie

IRELAND  129
jaunting cars (pony-and-trap

rides) here for generations. The
town does get very crowded in
the summer, thanks to the lure
of the Lakes of Killarney. The
three lakes and many of the
heather- covered hills
surrounding them lie within
Killarney National Park.
Although the landscape is
dotted with ruined castles and
abbeys, the lakes are the focus
Newman’s Mall in the quaint village of attention: the moody, watery
of Kinsale scenery is subject to subtle Gallarus Oratory, a tiny dry-stone Early
shifts of light and color. Well- Christian church
9 Kinsale known beauty spots include
Co. Cork. * 3,400. @ n Pier Road the Meeting of the Waters, the q Dingle
(0214-772 234). _ Regatta (Aug); Ladies’ View, so called because Co. Kerry. * 2,500. @ n Strand St
Kinsale Gourmet Festival (Oct). it delighted Queen Victoria’s (06691-51188). ( Fri.
∑ kinsale.ie ladies-in-waiting in 1861, and
the Gap of Dunloe, a dramatic This once remote Irish-speaking
One of the prettiest small towns mountain pass. The largest of town is today a thriving fishing
in Ireland, Kinsale has had a long the lakes, Lough Leane, is port and popular tourist center.
and checkered history. The dotted with uninhabited Brightly painted – often fairly
defeat of the Irish forces and islands. Boat trips across the hippy – craft shops and cafés
their Spanish allies at the Battle lake run from Ross Castle on abound. Along the quayside
of Kinsale in 1601 signalled the the shore nearest Killarney. are lively bars offering music
end of the old Gaelic order. Overlooking the lakes is and seafood. The harbor is
An important naval base in Muckross House, an imposing home to Dingle’s biggest star,
the 17th and 18th centuries, mansion built in 1843 in Fungi the dolphin, who has
Kinsale today is a popular Elizabethan style, set in been a permanent resident
yachting center. It is also famous beautiful gardens. It houses since 1983 and can be visited
for the quality of its cuisine and the Museum of Kerry Folklife. by boat or on swimming trips.
has a popular annual Gourmet Next door is the Walled Garden
Festival of food and drink. Centre, which incorporates Environs
Charles Fort, a fine example the garden, a restaurant, and a Dingle is a good base for
of a star-shaped bastion fort, craft center. exploring the scattered
was built by the English in the The town is also the starting archaeological remains of the
1670s to protect Kinsale against point for the popular Ring of Dingle Peninsula. The most
foreign naval forces. To reach it, Kerry tour around the Iveragh fascinating is the Gallarus
take the signposted coastal walk Peninsula. Allow a day’s drive to Oratory, northwest of Dingle.
from the quayside. enjoy its captivating scenery. This miniature dry-stone church,
shaped like an upturned boat,
+ Charles Fort P Muckross House was built from the 6th to the
3 km (2 miles) E of Kinsale. Tel 0214- 4 km (2.5 miles) S of Killarney. Tel 064- 9th centuries. West of Dingle,
772 263. Open mid-Mar–Oct: 6670144. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, along the coast road, are the
10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar: Dec 24–26. & 8 - = 7 Iron Age fort of Dunbeg and
10am–5pm daily. Last adm: 1 hr ∑ muckross-house.ie Early Christian beehive huts.
before closing. Closed Christmas
week. & 8 - 7 limited.
0 Killarney
Co. Kerry. * 13,500. £ @
n Beech Road (064-663 1633).
∑ killarney.ie
Killarney is often derided as “a

tourist town,” but this does not
detract from its cheerful
atmosphere. The infectious
Kerry humor is personified by
the wise-cracking “jarveys,”
whose families have run The Upper Lake, smallest and most remote of the Lakes of Killarney
w Bunratty Castle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This formidable 15th-century castle is one of Ireland’s major Practical Information

tourist attractions. Its most important residents were the Bunratty, Co. Clare. Tel 061-360
788. Open 9am–5:30pm daily
O’Briens, Earls of Thomond, who lived here from the early (Jun–Aug: 9am–6pm).
16th century until the 1640s. The interior has been restored Last entry to castle 4pm all year.
to look as it did under the so-called “Great Earl,” who died in Closed Good Fri, Dec 23–26.
1624. The adjacent Folk Park and the mock-medieval banquets & 0 7 to Folk Park.
∑ shannonheritage.com
held in the castle attract many visitors, but despite its commer-
cialization, Bunratty is well worth a visit. The Folk Park recreates Transport
@ from Limerick, Ennis &
rural and urban life at the end of the 19th century, with a Shannon Airport. Castle & Folk Park
village, complete with stores, a school, and dwellings ranging
from a laborer’s cottage to an elegant Georgian house.
South Solar
Great Hall The carved ceiling here is
The castle’s grandest room served as a partly a reconstruction in
banqueting hall and audience chamber. late Tudor style.
Among the furnishings bought by the
owner, Lord Gort, when he set about
restoring the castle in the 1950s, was this
Tudor standard.
The North Solar

was the Great
Earl’s private
apartment.
The Murder
Hole was
designed for
pouring
boiling water
or pitch onto
the heads of
attackers.
Entrance
The Earl’s Robing Room

also served as a private
audience chamber.
North Front
The entrance, raised Main Guard
well above ground This was where the
level to deter castle’s soldiers ate, slept,
invaders, is typical of and listened to music
castles of the period. from the Minstrels’ Gallery.
IRELAND  131
The imposing Kylemore Abbey, on the shores of Kylemore Lough, Connemara
e Galway Nearby is the Collegiate Church Nearby Kylemore Abbey is a

Co. Galway. * 60,000. £ @ of St. Nicholas, the city’s finest 19th-century romantic, battle-
n The Fairgreen, Foster St (091-537 medieval building. To the south mented fantasy. It became an
700). ( Sat & Sun. _ Arts Festival stands the 16th-century Spanish abbey when Benedictine nuns,
(Jul); Galway Races (late Jul); Oyster Arch, where ships from Spain fleeing from Belgium during
Festivals (Sep). unloaded their cargoes. Across World War I, sought refuge here.
the Corrib, facing the arch, is the A Victorian walled garden and
Galway is the center for the Irish- Claddagh. The only remnants of nature trails through the woods
speaking regions in the West of this once close-knit, Gaelic- and along the lake make the
Ireland and a lively university city. speaking community are its abbey a popular destination.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, friendly pubs and Claddagh
it was a prosperous trading port, rings – betrothal rings that are
controlled by 14 merchant traditionally handed down from t Aran Islands
families, or “tribes.” Its allegiance mother to daughter. Co. Galway. * 900. k from
to the English Crown cost the Connemara (091-593 034).
city dear when, in 1652, it was g from Rossaveal (091-568 903);
sacked by Cromwell’s forces. In r Connemara from Doolin (Easter–Sep: 065-707
the 18th century, Galway fell Co. Galway. @ to Clifden or Letterfrack. 4455). n Kilronan, Inishmore (099-
into decline, but in recent years, n Mar–Oct: Galway Road, Clifden 61263). Heritage Center: Open daily.
its fortunes have revived (095-21163). National Park Visitors’ =&7
through high-tech industries. Center: Tel 095-41 054. Open Mar–Oct:
The city stands on the banks daily. - 7 ∑ connemaranational Inishmore, Inishmaan, and
of the Corrib River. Many of the park.ie Kylemore Abbey: Tel 095-52 Inisheer, the three Aran Islands,
best stores, pubs, theaters, and 001. Open daily. & 8 compulsory. are formed from a limestone
historic sights are packed into ∑ kylemoreabbeytourism.ie ridge. The largest, Inishmore, is
the narrow lanes of the “Latin 13 km (8 miles) long and 3 km
Quarter” around Quay Street. This wild region, to the west of (2 miles) wide. The attractions of
Galway, encompasses bogs, the islands include the austere
mountains, and rugged Atlantic landscape crisscrossed with dry-
coastline. The small market town stone walls, stunning coastal
of Clifden is a convenient and views, and prehistoric stone forts.
popular base for exploring. The islands are a bastion of
Starting from Clifden, the Sky traditional Irish culture, with most
Road is an 11 km (7 mile) of the islanders engaged in fishing,
circular route with spectacular farming, or tourism. Ferries sail at
ocean views. South of Clifden, least once a day in winter and
the coast road to Roundstone several times daily in summer. Cars
skirts a massive bog, impromptu cannot be taken to the islands.
landing site of the first At Kilronan on Inishmore,
transatlantic flight made by jaunting cars (ponies and traps)
Alcock and Brown in 1919. and minibuses wait by the pier
Connemara National Park, to give tours; bicycles can also
near Letterfrack, includes some be hired. Nearby, the Aran
spectacular scenery, dominated Heritage Centre is dedicated to
by the mountains known as the the disappearing Aran way of
Twelve Bens. Here, visitors have life. The islands are famous for
Colorful storefronts lining Quay Street in a chance to spot red deer and their distinctive knitwear and
Galway’s “Latin Quarter” the famous Connemara ponies. traditional costumes.
Northern Ireland University, to the south of the

city, has two major attractions
The province of Northern Ireland was created after the in the Ulster Museum and the
partition of the island in 1921. Its six counties (plus Donegal, Botanic Gardens. The museum
Monaghan, and Cavan, which became part of the Republic) covers all aspects of Ulster, from
were part of Ulster, one of Ireland’s four traditional kingdoms. archaeology to technology. Its
treasures include jewelry from
Though densely populated and industrialized around Belfast, the Girona, a Spanish Armada
away from the capital the region is primarily agricultural. It ship that sank off the Giant’s
also has areas of outstanding natural beauty, notably the Causeway in 1588.
rugged Antrim coastline around the Giant’s Causeway.
E Titanic Belfast
Queen’s Rd. Tel 028-9076 6386.
stands close by. Sights in and Open daily. Closed Dec 24–26. &
around the square include the 8 7 - = ∑ titanicbelfast.com
Linen Hall Library, the late-
E Ulster Museum
Victorian Grand Opera House
Botanic Gardens. Tel 0845-608 000.
in Great Victoria Street, and
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. 8 -
Belfast’s most famous pub, the = 7 ∑ nmni.com
Crown Liquor Saloon, which
dates back to the 1880s.
Mosaic of St. Patrick’s journey to Ireland, The Neo-Romanesque
u Giant’s
Belfast Cathedral Belfast Cathedral, in
Donegall Street, is the Causeway
y Belfast Protestant cathedral, Co. Antrim. £ to Portrush.
Co. Antrim. * 500,000. k £ @ consecrated in 1904. @ from Portrush, Bushmills,
n 9 Donegal Square (028-9024 The interior is or Coleraine. Visitors’ Center:
6609). _ Belfast Film Festival (Apr); remarkable for the (028-2073 1855). Open daily.
Balmoral Show (May); Belfast vast mosaics added - 8 on request. 7
International Arts Festival (Oct). by the two Misses limited. ∑ nationaltrust.
∑ visit-belfast.com Martin in the 1920s. org.uk/giants-causeway
Lord Carson (1854–
Belfast was the only city in 1935), implacable The bizarre regularity
Ireland to experience the full opponent of Home of the Giant’s
force of the Industrial Revolution. Rule, is buried in Causeway’s basalt
Its shipbuilding, linen, rope- the south aisle. Detail of Titanic Memorial columns has made
making, and tobacco industries Across the water, outside Belfast City Hall it the subject of
caused the population to rise to Titanic Belfast tells numerous legends.
almost 400,000 by the end of the story of the famous ship. The most popular tells how the
World War I. The wealth it enjoyed Away from the center, Belfast giant, Finn MacCool, laid the
is still evident in its imposing has pleasant suburbs unaffected causeway to provide a path
public buildings. The Troubles by the civil strife of the Troubles. across the sea to Scotland so
and the decline of traditional The area around Queen’s that he could do battle with
industries have damaged its
economic life, but Belfast
remains a handsome city.
The cross-community desire
for peace is palpable, with
many new restaurants and
clubs and a thriving arts scene.
Most of Belfast’s main streets
(and bus routes) radiate out
from Donegall Square. In its
center stands the Portland stone
bulk of the 1906 City Hall, with
its huge central copper dome.
Statues around the building
include Queen Victoria at the
front and, on the east side, Sir
Edward Harland, founder of the
Harland and Wolff shipyard,
which built the Titanic. A
memorial to those who died
when the ship sank in 1912 The ornate Victorian interior of the Crown Liquor Saloon
IRELAND  133
The extraordinarily regular columns of the Giant’s Causeway, exposed at low tide
a rival Scottish giant. The main claim to fame is whiskey. centuries. It also shows
geological explanation is that 61 The Old Bushmills plant prides what became of them,
million years ago, in a series of itself on being the oldest following stories of both
volcanic eruptions, molten lava distilery in the world, its “Grant fortune and failure.
poured from narrow fissures in to Distil” dating from 1608. The park has more than
the ground, filling in the valleys. In 1974, Bushmills joined the 30 historic buildings, some of
The basalt lava cooled rapidly. In Irish Distillers Group, based at them original, some replicas.
the process, it shrank and the Midleton plant near There are settler homesteads,
cracked evenly into poly Cork (see p128), but its a mass house, a post office, a
gonal blocks. Towards brands have retained schoolhouse, and a forge, some
the end of the Ice their distinctive with craft displays, all with
Age, erosion by sea character. “Old costumed interpretative guides.
ice exposed the Bushmills” is There’s also an Ulster streetscape,
rocks and shaped the unusual in that a reconstructed emigrant ship,
Causeway. Most of the it is made from a and a Pennsylvania farmstead,
columns are hexagonal, blend of single malt complete with log barn, corn
but some have four, five, Whiskey barrel at and a single grain. The crib, and smokehouse. The six
eight, or even ten sides. Old Bushmills tour of the distilery, roomed farmhouse is based
They are generally about which features audio on one built by Thomas Mellon
30 cm (12 in) across. There are, in visual displays, ends with a and his father in the early years
fact, three causeways: the Grand, sampling session in the “1608 of their new life in America.
Middle, and Little. Distinctive Bar,” which is housed in the The Centre for Migration
features have been given poetic former malt kilns. Studies assists the descendants
names, such as the “Honeycomb” of emigrants in tracing their
and the “Wishing Chair.” family roots. Popular American
o Ulster-American
Tourists arrive by the busload festivals, such as Halloween
from the visitors’ center, but it is Folk Park and Independence Day, are
easy to escape the crowds by Co. Tyrone. Tel 0288224 3292. celebrated at the park.
taking one of the coastal paths. @ from Omagh. Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun (Oct–Feb: to 4pm). & =
0 7 ∑ nmni.com
i Old Bushmills
Distillery One of the best openair
Bushmills, Co. Antrim. Tel 0282073 museums of its kind, the Folk
3218. @ from Giant’s Causeway & Park grew up around the
Coleraine. Open daily (pm only Sun). restored boyhood home of
Closed Good Fri pm, Jul 12, 2 weeks Judge Thomas Mellon (founder
at Christmas. & = 8 obligatory. of the Pittsburgh banking
0 7 limited. ∑ bushmills.com dynasty). The park’s permanent
exhibition, called “Emigrants,”
Bushmills has an attractive examines why two million
square and an excellent river for people left Ulster for America Pennsylvania log farmhouse at the
salmon and trout fishing, but its during the 18th and 19th Ulster-American Folk Park
Practical & Travel Information Ireland uses British currency –

pounds sterling (£). These
Ireland’s capital cities compare favorably to any in Europe currencies are not inter-
for ease of transportation and communications, but in changeable. Alongside the
remoter areas, the pace of life is slower. In the most isolated Bank of England currency in
the North, four provincial
parts, public transportation can be infrequent. The division
banks issue their own notes,
of Ireland into the Republic and Northern Ireland, with for use only in the province.
separate currencies and communication systems, Banking hours are from
complicates matters further. 10am to 4pm, although some
banks close for lunch from
12:30 to 1:30pm.
Tourist Information few other large towns. Tourist
Before leaving for Ireland, you offices and hoteliers will gladly
can get information from the point out the areas to be Communications
Fáilte Ireland (Irish Tourist avoided. In Northern Ireland, the Main post offices in the Republic
Board) or Northern Ireland main security risk in the past and Northern Ireland are usually
Tourist Board (NITB) offices. was the threat of bombings, open from 9am to 5:30pm during
Regional tourist offices provide though even at the height of the week and from 9am to 1pm
more detailed information, the Troubles, this hardly ever on Saturdays. The postal service
including accommodations. affected tourists. Since the Good in Northern Ireland is much faster
In summer, all the sights are Friday Agreement, security than in the Republic, where it can
open, but crowds are naturally incidents are very rare. Visitors take at least five days for a letter
at their biggest. In winter, many may find, on the rare occasion, to reach the United States.
sights keep shorter hours or they are confronted by a police Most phones in the Republic
open only at the weekend and checkpoint. If you see a sign are operated by Eircom, and in
some close down completely. indicating a checkpoint ahead, Northern Ireland, by British
slow down and use low beams. Telecom. Both offer efficient,
Have your passport handy as up-to-date card- and coin-
Visa Requirements proof of identity. operated public phones.
Visitors from EU member states, Travel insurance for the UK Internet cafés are common,
the US, Canada, Australia, and will not cover you for the even in small towns, and most
New Zealand need a valid Republic, so make sure you hotels and cafés will offer their
passport, but not a visa, for purchase an adequate customers complimentary Wi-Fi.
entry into the Republic or insurance policy.
Northern Ireland. UK nationals The police are called the
do not need a passport to enter Gardaí in the Republic and the Flying to Ireland
the Republic, but may find one Police Service of Northern Flights from most of the large
useful as proof of identity. Ireland (PSNI) in the north. European cities arrive at Dublin
Airport. The major airlines
operating between Britain and
Safety and Emergencies Banking and Currency the Republic are Aer Lingus
Ireland is one of the safest The currency in the Republic is and budget rival Ryanair, which
places to travel in Europe. Petty the euro (see p23). All euro notes is based in Ireland. Aer Lingus
theft, such as pickpocketing, is and coins are exchangeable in flies direct from the US to
seldom a problem outside each of the participating Shannon Airport, 16 km
certain parts of Dublin and a Eurozone countries. Northern (10 miles) outside Limerick, as
well as to Dublin. Aeroflot flies
from Shannon to Moscow via
The Climate of Ireland Amsterdam or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Rain can be the scourge of There are flights for pilgrims
a holiday in Ireland, especially
°C/ºF
to Knock International Airport
on the west coast. However, from Dublin, London Stansted,
strong winds off the Atlantic Manchester Airport, and others.
19/67 13/56
mean that the weather often Cork airport is served by flights
12/53 11/51
changes with astonishing 7/45 7/45 from London (Gatwick,
speed. Though the rainfall is 3/38 2/35
Heathrow, and Stansted), as well
heavy, winters are mild and 5 5 3 2
as most British airports and
there is little snowfall except hrs hrs hrs hrs
many European destinations.
on the higher mountains. 46 52 67 69 From Belfast, United Airlines
Dublin and the sheltered mm mm mm mm
east coast have the warmest fly direct to the US, while both
month Apr Jul Oct Jan Flybe and easyJet fly to most
climate and least rainfall.
airports in Britain, as well as to
many European destinations.
IRELAND  135
Arriving by Sea Rail Travel express links between all major

Ferries from ports in Britain and Although the more rural areas in towns. A “Rambler” ticket allows
France are a popular way of the Republic are not served by a period of unlimited bus travel
getting to Ireland, especially rail, Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) in the Republic. In the North, a
with groups or families operates a service to most large “Freedom of Northern Ireland”
intending to tour the country towns. Dublin has two main train ticket offers the same benefits.
by car. There are large seasonal stations: Connolly serves the Taxis in Ireland range from
variations in fares, but discounts north and the line south along saloon cars to people carriers.
may be available when making the coast to Rosslare; Heuston The most likely places to find
online bookings. serves Cork and the southwest, taxis are at train and bus stations,
Irish Ferries and Stena Line and Galway and the west. hotels, and taxi stands.
operate regular crossings from Dublin’s local railroad service,
Holyhead, Pembroke, and the DART (Dublin Area Rapid
Fishguard in Wales to Dublin Transit), links towns between Car Rental
Port, Dun Laoghaire, and Malahide (County Dublin) and Car-rental firms do good
Rosslare. The fastest routes Greystones (County Wicklow) business, so in summer it is wise
take about 1 hour 40 minutes. with the center. The Luas to book ahead. Car rental –
There are also Irish Ferries tramline runs from Dublin city particularly in the Republic –
services from Holyhead to center to the inland suburbs. can be expensive and the best
Dublin and to Rosslare from There are two main routes rates are often obtained by
Cherbourg and Roscoff. out of Belfast: a line westward reserving in advance online.
From Scotland, both Stena to Londonderry, and Ireland’s Broker companies, such as
Line and P&O Ferries have only cross-border service, a Holiday Autos in the UK, will
crossings from Cairnryan high-speed service linking shop around to get the best
(Stranraer) to Larne (north of Belfast and Dublin. deal. If you intend to cross the
Belfast), taking around 2 hours border in either direction, you
15 minutes; P&O Ferries also must inform the rental
cross from Troon to Larne, Buses and Taxis company, as there may be an
taking about the same time. The Republic’s national bus additional insurance premium.
You can buy combined company, Bus Éireann, runs In both the Republic and
coach/ferry and train/ferry routes to all cities and most Northern Ireland, motorists
tickets from coach offices or towns. Ulsterbus runs a service drive on the left, as in Great
train stations all over Britain. in Northern Ireland, with Britain (see p101).
DIRECTORY
Tourist Boards Canada easyJet Stena Line
7–8 Wilton Terrace, Tel 0870-6000 000 (UK). Tel 01-907 5555.
Fáilte Ireland Dublin 2. ∑ easyjet.com
Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Tel 01-234 4000. ∑ stenaline.co.uk
Baggot St Bridge,
Flybe
Dublin 2. Tel 01-602 4000. UK Rail Travel
∑ flybe.com
US: 345 Park Avenue, 29 Merrion Rd,
Dublin 4. Ryanair Irish Rail (Iarnród
New York, NY 10154. Tel 01-205 3700. Tel 1520 444 004. Éireann)
Tel 1800-223 6470. Tel 01-836 6222.
US Tel 0871-246 000 (UK).
∑ irishrail.ie
∑ discoverireland.ie 42 Elgin Rd, ∑ ryanair.com
Northern Ireland
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. United Airlines
Northern Ireland Railways
Tel 01-668 8777. Tel 028-9066 6630.
Tourist Board Tel 1800-864 8331 (US).
∑ united.com ∑ translink.co.uk
St. Anne’s Court, 59 North Emergency
St, Belfast BT1 1NB. Services Bus Companies
Ferry Companies
Tel 028-9023 1221. Police, Ambulance, Bus Éireann
∑ discovernorthern and Fire services Irish Ferries Tel 01-836 6111.
Tel 999. Tel 0818-300 400. ∑ buseireann.ie
ireland.com
(Republic and NI). Tel 08717-300 400 (UK). Ulsterbus/Translink
∑ irishferries.com Tel 028-9066 6630.
Embassies Airlines
∑ translink.co.uk
P&O Ferries
Australia Aer Lingus
Tel 1890 800 600 Tel 01-686 9467 Car Rental
7th Floor, Fitzwilton (Republic).
Tel 0333 004 5000 (UK). Holiday Autos
House, Wilton Terrace, Tel 516 622 4222 (US). Tel 0808-130 0030 (UK). Tel 020-3740 9859 (UK).
Dublin 2. Tel 01-664 5300. ∑ aerlingus.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ holidayautos.ie
Shopping & Entertainment Entertainment Venues

In many Irish cities, the main
Ireland offers a wide range of quality handmade goods, theaters host a wide range of
including Aran sweaters, Waterford crystal, fine Irish linen, and concerts, events, and plays. In
Donegal tweed. As with its produce, the best entertainment central Belfast, the Grand Opera
House and Lyric Theatre put on
is local and highly individual. Ireland’s cities are well served an interesting program. Dublin’s
by theaters, movie theatres, and concert venues, but there two most famous theaters, the
are many other local events, including arts festivals with Abbey and Gate Theatre, are
traditional music and dance. Not to be overlooked is the renowned for their productions
entertainment provided by a night in an Irish pub. Finally, of Irish and international plays, as
the beautiful countryside offers the chance to unwind by is the Cork Opera House.
Keep an eye out for smaller
walking, riding, fishing, or playing a round of golf. theater groups around the
country. The Druid Theatre in
Galway puts on an original
Where to Shop to Celtic times, distinctive repertoire, and Waterford boasts
The choice of places to shop in jewelry is produced all over a resident drama company at
Ireland ranges from tiny Ireland. The Claddagh ring of the Garter Lane Arts Centre.
workshops to large factory Galway is the most famous. It is Other venues for classical
outlets, and from chic boutiques a symbol of friendship, love, and music include Dublin’s great
to high-street chain stores. loyalty, and features two hands auditorium, the National Concert
In Dublin, the Temple Bar area cradling a crowned heart. Hall, the Crawford Art Gallery in
contains a number of Aran sweaters are sold all Cork, and the Ulster Hall in Belfast.
fashionable craft stores. One of over Ireland, but particularly The Waterford Festival of
the largest shopping centers in in County Galway and on the Light Opera and the Wexford
the city is St. Stephen’s Green Aran Islands. A well-known Festival of Opera attract opera
Shopping Centre, full of clothes outlet for these and other lovers from around the world.
and craft shops. Near Grafton knitwear products is Blarney Wexford revives neglected operas
Street is the Powerscourt Woollen Mills. Donegal tweed while Waterford puts on more
Townhouse Shopping Centre. is a byword for quality, noted mainstream operas and musicals.
for its texture and subtle colors. Dublin’s main opera venue is the
It can be bought at Magee 19th-century Gaiety Theatre,
Crafts of Donegal. while the Bord Gáis Energy
Crafts are a flourishing way of Damask linen was brought to Theatre in the Docklands hosts
life in rural Ireland. The Crafts Northern Ireland in the late 17th mostly musicals.
Council of Ireland, which has century by Huguenot refugees. Rock concerts are held in the
branches in Kilkenny and The North is still the place for 3Arena or at the many outdoor
Dublin, can recommend linen, with sheets, table linen, sites during the summer.
good small-scale specialist stores. and other fabrics available from Die-hard rock and jazz fans
Outlets particularly worth Thomas Ferguson Irish Linen. should search out the musical
visiting include the Kilkenny Smoked salmon, farmhouse pubs for Irish bands.
Design Centre and Bricín, which cheeses, handmade preserves,
sell a wide selection of items. and, of course, Irish whiskey
Established in 19th-century make perfect last-minute gifts. Irish Music and Dance
Ulster, the Belleek Pottery The Irish pub has helped keep
produces creamy china with traditional music alive and
intricately worked decorative Entertainment Listings provided the setting for the
motifs, such as shamrocks and and Tickets musical revival that began in
flowers. Royal Tara China, in The tourist board for the the 1960s. Nights of Irish music
Galway, is Ireland’s leading fine- Republic, Fáilte Ireland, and the and song are scheduled in pubs,
bone-china manufacturer, with Northern Ireland Tourist Board such as Johnnie Fox’s in Dublin,
designs inspired by Celtic themes. (see p135) both publish a yearly and The Laurels in Killarney.
Waterford Crystal is Calendar of Events that lists major However, sessions of informal or
undoubtedly the most famous fixtures and events around the impromptu music are
name in Irish glass-making, but country. The regional tourist offices commonplace. Wherever you
there are many other names of also provide local information. are, the locals will advise you of
similar quality. Galway Irish Tickets are often available the nearest musical pubs.
Crystal is an excellent make, on the night, but it is safer Popular dance spectaculars
available as elegant ornaments to book in advance. Most have raised the profile, if not the
and gifts. Jerpoint Abbey in venues will accept credit understanding, of real Irish
County Kilkenny inspires stylish card bookings. Visit www. country dance. Visit Comhaltas
local designs by Jerpoint Glass. visitdublin.com for information Ceoltóirí Éireann, in Monkstown
With a tradition that dates back about the city’s nightlife. near Dublin, or any of its
IRELAND  137
branches around the country times. In the countryside, pubs green turf and racing is a
for genuine traditional music provide an important focus for national passion. A day at the
and dance nights all year. far-flung rural communities, and track during Galway Race Week
some even double as stores. in July is a great social event.
Pubs vary greatly throughout Those who want to do more
Irish Festivals the country, so be sure to try than just watch should try
The Irish are expert festival out a few wherever you visit. horseback riding through the
organizers, staging a week of Dublin is famed for its literary unspoiled countryside.
street entertainment, theater, pubs; the Dublin Literary Pub Another way to experience
music, and dance to celebrate Crawl is an entertaining way to the countryside is to take a river
almost everything under the get a feel for the city’s booze- or canal cruise. Emerald Star
sun (see Directory for listings). fueled literary heritage. Music has a fleet of cruisers for use on
sessions are common in the pubs the waterways. Alternatively,
of Kilkenny and County Clare. you may want to play golf at
Irish Pubs Some of the most picturesque one of Ireland’s beautiful golf
The Irish pub is known for its establishments are in Cork and courses, or try some fishing.
convivial atmosphere and the Kerry. Galway’s tourists and Maps and locations for fishing
“craic” – the Irish expression for student population guarantee are available from the Central
fun. Wit is washed down with a lively pub atmosphere. Fisheries Board. The Golfing
the national drinks of whiskey Union of Ireland can advise on
or Guinness. golf courses.
City pubs often have grand Outdoor Activities Detailed information on a wide
interiors, a testament to the No matter where you are in range of outdoor activities is
importance of the brewing and Ireland, the countryside is never available from Fáilte Ireland (see
distiling industries in Victorian far away. Horses thrive on the p135), and local tourist offices.
DIRECTORY
Crafts Entertainment Grand Opera House Kilkenny Arts Festival
Venues Great Victoria St, Belfast. (Aug). 11 Patrick’s Court,
Belleek Pottery Tel 028-9024 1919. Patrick St, Kilkenny.
Belleek, Co. Fermanagh. Abbey Theatre Tel 056-776 3663.
Tel 028-6865 8501. Abbey St Lower, Lyric Theatre
Tel 028-9038 1081. Waterford Festival
Blarney Woollen Mills Dublin 1.
Blarney, Co. Cork. Tel 01-878 7222.
∑ lyrictheatre.co.uk of Light Opera
(late Sep–Oct). Theatre
Tel 021-451 6111. National Concert Hall
Bord Gáis Energy Royal. Tel 051-874 402.
Bricín Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2.
Theatre
26 High Street, Killarney, Tel 01-417 0000. Wexford Festival
Grand Canal Square,
Co. Kerry. Tel 064-663 4902. 3Arena of Opera
Docklands, Dublin 2.
North Wall Quay, Dublin 1. (Oct–Nov). Wexford
Galway Irish Crystal Tel 01-677 7999.
Tel 01-819 8888. Opera House.
Merlin Park, Galway.
Cork Opera House Tel 053-912 2144.
Tel 091-757 311. Ulster Hall
Emmet Place, Cork.
Jerpoint Glass Tel 021-427 0022. Bedford St, Belfast. Irish Pubs
Stoneyford, Co. Kilkenny. Tel 028-9033 4455.
Tel 056-772 4350. Crawford Art Gallery Dublin Literary Pub
Kilkenny Design
Emmet Place, Cork. Music, Dance, Crawl
Centre Tel 0214-480 5042. and Festivals 9 Duke St.
Tel 01-670 5602.
Castle Yard, Kilkenny. Druid Theatre Comhaltas Ceoltóirí
Tel 056-772 2118. Flood St, Galway. Éireann Outdoor
Magee of Donegal Tel 091-568 660. 32 Belgrave Sq, Activities
The Diamond, Donegal. Monkstown, Co. Dublin.
Gaiety Theatre Central Fisheries
Tel 073-22660. Tel 01-280 0295.
South King St, Dublin 2. Board
Royal Tara China Tel 0818-719 388. Dublin Theatre Tel 01-884 2600.
Tara Hall, Mervue, Galway. Festival
Garter Lane Arts ∑ fishinginireland.info
Tel 091-705 602. Assorted drama (Sep/Oct).
Centre 44 East Essex St, Dublin 2. Emerald Star
Thomas Ferguson
22A O’Connell St, Tel 01-677 8439. The Marina, Carrick-on-
Irish Linen
54 Scarva Road, Banbridge. Waterford. Shannon, Co. Leitrim.
Tel 051-855 038. Galway Arts Festival
Tel 028-4062 3491. Tel 071-962 7633.
Theater, music, and dance
Waterford Crystal Gate Theatre (Jul). Black Box Theatre, Golfing Union of
28 The Mall, Waterford. Cavendish Row, Dublin 1. Dyke Rd, Galway. Ireland
Tel 051-317 000. Tel 01-874 4045. Tel 091-509 700. ∑ golfnet.ie
138  IRELAND
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Dublin Prices are based on one night’s stay in
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY:
Gresham Hotel €€€ € up to €80
Modern Map D2 €€ €80 to €180
€€€ over €180
23 O’Connell St Upper, Dublin 1
Tel 01-874 6881
∑ gresham-hotels.com DINGLE: Greenmount House €€
One of Dublin’s oldest and Modern
best-known hotels, the Gresham Upper John St, Dingle, Co. Kerry
offers cheerful, well-equipped Tel 066-915 1414
bedrooms with classic and ∑ greenmounthouse.ie
contemporary furnishings. Elegantly decorated rooms and
suites overlooking the harbor,
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: and an award-winning breakfast.
The Morrison €€€
Boutique Map C3 KILKENNY: Langton
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 House Hotel €€
Tel 01-887 2400 Boutique
∑ morrisonhotel.ie Georgian elegance and grandeur at The 69 John St
This luxurious hotel overlooking Merrion, southeast Dublin Tel 056-776 5133
the Liffey impresses with high ∑ langtons.ie
ceilings, dark woods, and A friendly hotel full of character.
handcrafted Irish carpets. DK Choice Excellent food and service.
FARTHER AFIELD:
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: Portmarnock Hotel and LIMERICK: 1 Pery Square €€
Buswells €€€ Golf Links €€ Boutique
Historic Map E4 Modern 1 Pery Square, Georgian Quarter
25 Molesworth St, Dublin 2 Portmarnock, Co. Dublin Tel 061-402 402
Tel 01-614 6500 Tel 01-846 0611 ∑ oneperysquare.com
∑ buswells.ie ∑ portmarnock.com A Georgian townhouse with
Open since 1882, Buswells is A beautifully decorated grand modern and period-style rooms,
one of Dublin’s oldest hotels. old Victorian beachside house, plus a luxurious spa.
It is slightly old-fashioned, with with well-furnished rooms, an
a sophisticated interior. elegant, comfortable bar, and
restaurants with epic views. DK Choice
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: There is also an 18-hole golf LOUGH ESKE:
The Merrion €€€ course and a luxury spa. Harvey’s Point €€€
Luxury Map E5 Luxury
Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2 Donegal Town, Co. Donegal
Tel 01-603 0600 Tel 074-972 2208
∑ merrionhotel.com ∑ harveyspoint.com
Georgian splendor in this luxurious, Rest of Ireland This Swiss-style hotel offers
expansive hotel. Guests enjoy palatial bedrooms overlooking
elegant interiors, roaring log fires, ARDMORE: Cliff House Hotel €€€ the lake, some with four-
and the indulgent Tethra spa. Luxury poster beds. Renowned for its
Middle Rd, Co. Waterford gourmet cuisine, the hotel’s
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: Tel 024-87800 restaurant offers an international
Avalon House € ∑ thecliffhousehotel.com fine-dining experience.
Modern Map C4 Most rooms here have a balcony
55 Aungier St, Dublin 2 or terrace overlooking the sea. Spa
Tel 01-475 0001 and Michelin-starred restaurant. NEWCASTLE: Slieve
∑ avalon-house.ie Donard Resort €€
Stay in well-priced and cheerful BELFAST: Europa Hotel €€ Modern
accommodations in a restored Modern Downs Rd, Co. Down, BT33 0AH
redbrick Victorian building. Great Victoria St, Co. Antrim, BT2 7AP Tel 028-4372 1066
Clean dorms have pine floors Tel 028-9027 1066 ∑ hastingshotels.com
and high ceilings. ∑ hastingshotels.com A majestic redbrick hotel with
Classic hotel with an elegant bar, spectacular views, all the
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: lounge, and two restaurants. comforts, and a golf course.
Brooks Hotel €€
Luxury Map D4 CASHEL: Cashel Palace Hotel €€ TRIM: Trim Castle Hotel €€€
59–62 Drury St, Dublin 2 Historic Modern
Tel 01-670 4000 Main St, Co. Tipperary Castle St, Co. Meath
∑ brookshotel.ie Tel 062-62707 Tel 046-948 3000
An immaculately maintained ∑ cashel-palace.ie ∑ trimcastlehotel.com
hotel with a great reputation. Set in a Queen Anne-style house Bright, spacious rooms, some
Contemporary flourishes and dating from 1730, with rooms overlooking the ruins of Trim
tasteful traditional decor. overlooking tranquil gardens. Castle. Friendly staff.

FARTHER AFIELD: Price Guide
Dublin Johnnie Fox’s €€ Prices are for a three-course meal for
one, including half a bottle of house
Irish
wine, and all extra charges.
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: Glencullen, Co. Dublin
The Winding Stair €€ Tel 01-295 5647 € under €25
Irish Map C3 One of the oldest pubs in Ireland, €€ €25 to €50
€€€ over €50
40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 Johnnie Fox’s is a friendly place
Tel 01-872 7320 with hearty Irish food and
Located above an iconic traditional music. DINGLE: Lord Baker’s
bookstore, in a bright, high- Restaurant and Bar €€
ceilinged room, this restaurant Traditional
offers imaginative Irish fare made Main St, Co. Kerry
with artisanal ingredients. Rest of Ireland Tel 066-915 1277 Closed Thu
This ancient pub with stone walls
NORTH OF THE LIFFEY: BELFAST: Mourne and open fires serves dishes such
Chapter One €€€ Seafood Bar €€ as grilled sirloin in pepper sauce,
European Map C1 Irish and poached salmon with a
18–19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 34–36 Bank St, Co. Antrim, BT1 1HL lemon butter sauce.
Tel 01-873 2266 Closed Sun & Mon; Tel 028-9024 8544 Closed Dec 24–26
first 2 wks Aug; Dec 24–Jan 8 A cozy bar-restaurant in the city GALWAY: Ard Bia at Nimmos €€
A Michelin-starred restaurant center. The food is terrific – fish International
in a cellar of the Dublin Writers from the morning’s catch and Spanish Arch, Co. Galway
Museum. Imaginative menu, shellfish from Mourne’s own Tel 091-561 114
and a popular pre-theater deal. beds in Carlingford Lough. A café by day and a restaurant
by night. This is the place for
hearty breakfasts and lunches.
DK Choice DK Choice
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: BLACKLION: MacNean KILKENNY: Campagne €€€
Avoca Restaurant €€ House & Bistro €€€ French
Irish Map E4 Irish 5 Gas House Ln.
11–13 Suffolk St, Dublin 2 Main St, Co. Cavan Tel 056-777 2858 Closed Mon except
Tel 01-672 6019 Tel 071-985 3022 Closed Mon & bank hols, Tue dinner after bank hols
This bright restaurant, atop an Tue Stylish restaurant serving French
iconic Irish craft store is always Weekends tend to be booked dishes made with locally sourced
busy. From imaginative salad out months in advance at this ingredients. Thoughtful wine list.
offerings and sandwiches culinary gem. Run by
to delicious hot dishes and renowned chef Neven Maguire
irresistible desserts, it is worth and his wife Amelda, MacNean DK Choice
the wait for a table. There is also House serves delicacies such as NEW QUAY: Linnane’s
a deli. Open for lunch only. wood pigeon with game Lobster Bar €€
terrine and ballotine of rabbit. It Traditional Seafood
also has a full vegetarian menu. The Pier, Co. Clare
SOUTHEAST DUBLIN: Tel 065-707 8120 Closed Winter:
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud €€€ Mon–Thu; Good Friday, Dec 25
French Map E5 CORK: Café Paradiso €€€ Set on the shoreline, Linnane’s
21 Upper Merrion St, Dublin 2 Vegetarian enjoys stunning seascapes. On
Tel 01-676 4192 Closed Sun & Mon; 16 Lancaster Quay the menu is simple Irish fare:
bank hols; Dec 24–Jan 1 Tel 021-427 7939 Closed Sun; poached salmon with chive
The jewel of Dublin dining, Dec 24–Jan 1 cream sauce, steak in pepper
boasting two Michelin stars. Ireland’s most famous vegetarian sauce. There is also a pub with
Lunch is incredible value. restaurant serves many inventive open fires in the winter and
dishes. Even dedicated carnivores outdoor seating for the summer.
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN: Neon € will appreciate the food here.
Asian Map C5
17 Camden St, Dublin 2
Tel 01-405 2222
Healthy and tasty Asian street
food is served in bright, lively,
and fun surroundings. Free ice-
cream cones for dessert.
SOUTHWEST DUBLIN:
Queen of Tarts €€
Café Map C3
4 Cork Hill, Dame St, Dublin 2
Tel 01-670 7499
This cozy French-style café
opposite Dublin Castle serves
soups, sandwiches, and an array
of sweet and savory tarts. The informal, relaxed interior of Café Paradiso, a vegetarian restaurant in Cork
FRANCE AND
THE LOW
COUNTRIES
France and the Low Countries

at a Glance 142–143
France 144–211
Belgium and Luxembourg 212–235
The Netherlands 236–261
142  FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES
France and the Low

Countries at a Glance
France dominates the northwest of continental Europe.
To the northeast of France lie Belgium and the
Netherlands, known as the Low Countries because
they occupy flat plains and land reclaimed from the
sea. South of Belgium is the tiny state of Luxembourg.
France has some of Europe’s greatest attractions,
notably the culture and nightlife of Paris. Visitors often
choose to tour just one or two of the country’s regions:
Paris (see pp150–71), France’s
the mountains of the Alps or the Pyrenees, one of the capital, is a city of distinctive
historic wine-growing areas, or the warm south. districts. Montmartre, the
Belgium and the Netherlands have many historic cities hilltop artists’ quarter, is
full of fine museums and art galleries. Visiting these dominated by the
Sacré-Coeur.
countries can be rewarding because all the major
sights lie within easy reach of each other. Amiens
Cherbourg
Rouen
Paris
St. Malo
Chartres
Rennes
Orléans
The Loire Valley (see pp176–9) Nantes

is one of France’s most popular
regions for touring. It is dotted
with magnificent châteaux, built
by kings and nobles during the
Poitiers
Renaissance. One of the finest
is Chenonceau. FRANCE
(see pp144–211)
Limoges
Bordeaux
Southwest France (see pp188–9) has a huge variety

of attractions, from the peaks of the Pyrenees to
Atlantic seaside resorts, such as Biarritz, and the Toulouse
Biarritz
world-famous vineyards of Bordeaux (see p186).
0 km 75
0 miles 75
Perpignan
Avenue des Champs-Elysees from Arc de Triomphe at sunset, Paris

Groningen
NETHERLANDS
(see pp236–61)
Amsterdam
Locator Map
Rotterdam
Amsterdam (see pp240–51)

is a unique city, criss-crossed
Brussels by canals, its relaxed
Liège atmosphere a refreshing
Lille change from Europe’s other
BELGIUM AND traffic-clogged capital cities.
LUXEMBOURG
(see pp212–35)
Brussels (see pp216–23),
the capital of Belgium,
Luxembourg thrives as the head-
quarters of the
Reims European Union. The
Metz Grand Place, with
its soaring Gothic
town hall, is one
Nancy of Europe’s most
Strasbourg spectacular squares.
Troyes
Dijon
Besançon
Clermont- Lyon Dijon (see pp184–5) flourished in the Middle Ages

Ferrand under the powerful dukes of Burgundy. The former
palace where the dukes held court now houses the
prestigious Musée des Beaux Arts, with its rich
Grenoble collection of art and sculpture.
The South of France

(see pp190–97) is one
of the traditional
Avignon playgrounds of
Europe’s rich and
famous, where grand
Montpellier hotels, luxury yachts, and
Nice pristine beaches contrast
Marseille with picturesque
old fishing ports.
FRANCE AND THE LOW COUNTRIES  145
FRANCE
The best advocates for visiting France are the French themselves, convinced as
they are that their way of life is best, and their country the most civilized on
earth. The food and wine are justly celebrated, while French literature, art,
cinema, and architecture can be both profound and provocative. France is a
country that stimulates the intellect and gratifies the senses.
France belongs to both northern and Champagne, and Cognac; today, these
southern Europe, encompassing regions have been overtaken by chemicals,
ranging from Brittany, with its Celtic industrial machinery, telecommunications
maritime heritage, and Germanic Alsace- equipment, and fighter aircraft. The French
Lorraine, to the Mediterranean sunbelt and remain firmly committed to their roots,
the peaks of the Alps and Pyrenees. The however, and often keep a place in the
capital, Paris, is the country’s linchpin, with country for vacations or their retirement.
its intellectual excitement, intense tempo
of life, and notoriously brusque citizens. History
Strangely, as life in France becomes more Though famous for the rootedness of its
city-based and industrialized, so the desire peasant population, France has also been
grows to safeguard the old, traditional a European melting pot, from the arrival of
ways and to value rural life. The idea of life the Celtic Gauls in the 1st millennium BC
in the country – douceur de vivre (the Good through to the Mediterranean immigrations
Life), long tables set in the sun for the wine of the 20th century. Roman conquest by
and anecdotes to flow – is as seductive as Julius Caesar had an enduring impact
ever for residents and visitors alike. but, from the 4th and 5th centuries AD,
Nevertheless, the rural way of life has been Germanic invaders destroyed much of the
changing. Whereas in 1945 one person in Roman legacy. The Franks provided political
three worked in farming, today it is only leadership in the following centuries, but
one in 20. France’s main exports used to when their line died out in the late 10th
be luxury goods, such as perfumes, century, France was politically fragmented.
Rouen, a city on the river Seine in Normandy

The iconic monastery of Mont St-Michel in Normandy, northwestern France
The Capetian dynasty gradually pieced undermined the authority of the Church
France together over the Middle Ages, and the state, nowhere more than in
a period of economic prosperity and France itself. The Revolution of 1789
cultural vitality. The Black Death and the ended the absolute monarchy and
Hundred Years’ War brought setbacks, introduced major social and institutional
and French power was seriously reforms, many of which were
threatened by the dukes of endorsed by Napoleon, whose
Burgundy and the English crown. empire dominated Europe at
In the Renaissance period, the start of the 19th century.
François I (reigned 1515–47) Yet the Revolution also
dreamt of making France a major inaugurated the instability
power, but was thwarted by the that has remained a hallmark
Habsburg Emperor Charles V. The of French politics: since 1789,
Reformation then plunged the France has seen three forms of
country into religious conflict. monarchy, two empires, and
However, the 17th century saw Napoleon, the brilliant five republics.
general who rose to be
France, under Louis XIV, rise Emperor of France
Throughout the political
to dominate Europe militarily turmoil of the 19th century,
and intellectually. France remained a leading
In the Age of Enlightenment, French source of literary and artistic movements.
culture and institutions were the envy of In painting, the French Impressionists
Europe. The ideas of Voltaire and Rousseau were the inspiration for the development of
modern art, and would-be painters began
KEY DATES IN FRENCH HISTORY to flock to Paris instead of Rome. France also
1200–700 BC Arrival of the Celts during the Bronze retained its position as the arbiter of taste
and Iron Ages in fashion, food, wine, and good manners.
51 BC Romans complete conquest of Gaul Rivalry with Germany dominated French
AD 481 Frankish leader Clovis becomes first politics for most of the late 19th and early
Merovingian king
20th centuries. The population losses in
800 Coronation of Charlemagne, greatest of the
Carolingians, as Holy Roman Emperor
World War I were traumatic for France,
1180–1223 Reign of Philip Augustus
while during 1940–44 the country was
1337–1453 Hundred Years’ War with England
occupied by Germany. Yet since 1955, the
1562–93 Wars of Religion
two countries have proved the backbone
1660–1715 Reign of Louis XIV
of the developing European Union.
1789 French Revolution
Modern Politics
1804 Napoleon crowned emperor
1815 Defeat of Napoleon: monarchy restored For much of the 20th century, domestic
1848 Revolution; short-lived Second Republic politics was marked by confrontations
1852–70 Second Empire under Napoleon III
1919 Treaty of Versailles after World War I
1940 Germans overrun France
1958 Fifth Republic with president Charles de Gaulle
1968 Student uprising and de Gaulle’s downfall
1994 Channel Tunnel opens
2002 Euro replaces Franc as legal tender
2010 Henry IV’s skull found; burial ceremony at
Basilica St. Denis in 2011
2012 New TGV line extends to Barcelona, Spain
The student uprising of May 1968, which challenged all the old
assumptions of the French ruling elite
FRANCE  147
Avant-garde art and literature and

modern architecture enjoy strong
patronage in France. Exciting architectural
projects range from new buildings in Paris
– the Louvre pyramid and La Grande
Arche at La Défense – to the post-modern
housing projects of Nîmes and Marseille in
the south.
Contemporary Society
Social change has resulted from the
decline in the influence of the Catholic
A French street café in the evening Church. Parental authoritarianism has
waned and there is a much freer
between Left and Right. In 1958, the ambiance in schools – two trends
problems of governing the country led to resulting from the May 1968 uprising.
the introduction of a new constitution – the French social life, except between close
Fifth Republic – with Charles de Gaulle as friends, has always been marked by
president. However, in 1968, protesting formality – handshaking, and the use of
students and striking workers combined titles and the formal vous rather than the
to paralyze the country and de Gaulle intimate tu. However, this is changing,
resigned the following year. especially among the young, who now
The old divide between Left and Right call you by your first name, and use tu
has given way to a more center-focused even in an office context. Standards of
consensus fostered by François dress have become more informal
Mitterrand, Socialist President too, though the French are still
from 1981 to 1995, and very keen to dress well.
forced on the Conservative France is a country where
Jacques Chirac, who tradition and progress are found
succeeded him, by the side by side. The Euro has
Tempting display of charcuterie and cheeses
election of Socialist on a Lyon market stall
taken over, yet some people
Lionel Jospin as Prime still calculate in “new” Francs,
Minister in 1997. In 2002, however, a land- introduced back in 1960. France’s agri-
slide victory for the center-right coalition business is one of the most modern in the
ousted Jospin; the election of Nicolas world, but the peasant farmer is deeply
Sarkozy as President in 2007 confirmed revered. France has Europe’s largest hyper-
the center-right politics. However, in markets, which have been ousting local
2012, Sarkozy lost the presidency to the grocers. Although American in inspiration,
Socialist candidate François Hollande. they are French in what they sell, with
wonderful displays of cheeses and a huge
Language and Culture range of fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs.
Culture is taken seriously in France:
writers, intellectuals, artists, and fashion
designers are held in high esteem. The
French remain justly proud of their films,
and are determined to defend it against
pressures from Hollywood. Other
activities – from the music industry to
the French language itself – are subject
to the same protectionist attitudes. The TGV, France’s impressive high-speed train
UNIT ED Harwich
Exploring France KINGDOM

NORTH
France is a large country and, although it has more LONDON
SEA
M2
Ramsgate
than 66 million inhabitants, is less densely populated Canterbury
than most of its western European neighbors. Paris Dover
A23
Folkestone
Portsmouth
belongs to northern Europe, while the south is Brighton
Dunkerque
Newhaven Calais
Mediterranean in climate and lifestyle. Distances
limit the amount of the country you can visit, Boulogne
though train services are good and there is n nel

Cha
A2
6
h
an extensive network of highways. Popular Englis Abbeville
Arras
tourist destinations include the châteaux
of the Loire, the mountains of the Alps and Dieppe
8
Amiens
A2
Cherbourg
Pyrenees, historic wine-growing regions
Le Havre
(see pp186–7), and the resorts of the
A16
17
N13
Rouen
D10
A1
Côte d’Azur. Plymouth Plymouth, Bayeux A13
Weymouth Caen
Cork 4 D163
A8 Charles de Gaulle
Roscoff
N154
A1
3
A28
N1
2 Mont-St-Michel PARIS
Brest St-Malo D9 2 Versailles
76 N1 Orly
N12 Chartres
N1
Quimper Cathedral Fontainebleau

2
Rennes
A81
N1
65
N24 N15 A11
7
Le Mans
N137
Lorient
Orléans
A77
0
Carnac A1
Château de
A2
Blois
Chambord
8
A11 Angers
St-Nazaire
Nantes Loire Tours Château de
7
A8
Abbaye de A85 Chenonceau

Gijón
Fontevraud
A83
Bourges
0
D91
D347
La Roche-
A1
sur-Yon
F R A N
7
Poitiers
N13
A8
3
A7
A20
Niort
La Rochelle
A10
D941
N141
Bay Limoges Clermont-
Angoulême Ferrand
of
A10
1
N2
Biscay
9
N10
A8
89 Périgueux e
D60 gn
do
Lascaux D or
N21
Bordeaux
22
N1
Arcachon 3
A6 D813
Admiring the work of local artists on the

0
D84
D82
0 8
quayside at St-Tropez N8
A20
ar Rodez
G
on
ne
A63
A6
Golfe de 2
5
A6
Gascogne
8 Albi
A6
Key Bayonne
Toulouse
Biarritz D6
Highway 11
A6
Pau 3
Carcassonne
4
Bilbao 4
Major road A6
Lourdes
Railroad A61
Foix
Channel Tunnel Pyrenees
A9
International border SPAIN Zaragoza Perpignan

ANDORRA
Barcelona

FRANCE  149
Distance chart
Paris Distance by road in kilometers
579
Bordeaux
360
221 799
Lille
Bruges 137 496
B EL GI UM
Ghent 462 538 682
334 424
Lyon
287
Lille Brussels 773 648 992 313
480 403 616 194
Marseille
Charleroi
Brussels 385 325 604 653 973
239 202 375 406 604 Nantes
D64
3
932 808 1152 472 187 1132
Frankfurt, Nice
579 502 716 293 116 703
St-Quentin Cologne
LUXEMBOURG 490 918 549 478 789 867 948 Strasbourg
A26 304 570 341 297 490 539 589
LUXEMBOURG
GERMANY 744 244 923 537 407 568 563 1013 Toulouse
462 152 574 334 254 353 349 629
Mannheim
Reims A4
D603
A4
Metz
Châlons-sur-Marne Karlsruhe
N4 A4 Stuttgart
in
N4 Nancy
e
6
Rh
A2
ne Strasbourg
S ei
Troyes
A31
A5
Sights at a Glance
A35
N59
A5
D60
1 Paris pp150–71 i Vézelay

6
2 Strasbourg o Dijon pp184–5

A6 Mulhouse
3 Reims p Beaune
A31
4 Rouen a Lyon
Basel
Vézelay 5 Bayeux s Annecy
51 Dijon A36 d Grenoble
N1 Besançon 6 Mont-St-Michel pp174–5
7 St-Malo f Bordeaux
Beaune g Lascaux
8 Carnac
C E
Bern, Zurich
9 Nantes h Toulouse
SWITZERLAND 0 Poitiers j Pyrenees
A6
Loir
Lausanne k Carcassonne
e
N79 q Abbaye Royale de

A40 Fontevraud l Nîmes
N7 Geneva w Tours z Avignon
e Château de Chenonceau x Arles pp192–3
Annecy pp178–9 c Camargue
Lyon Milan
r Blois v Aix-en-Provence
A89
A43
t Château de Chambord b Marseille
A43
St-Etienne
y Orléans n Cannes
1
A4
A4
A7
Grenoble u Chartres Cathedral m Nice

Turin
, Monaco
A49
pp180–81
A75
Valence
A51
I TA LY
e
Rhôn
A7
N106 0 km 75
Genoa 0 miles 75
Avignon
A9
N8
A75
Nîmes Ligurian
5
1
A7
A5 Nice Sea
Montpellier Arles Monaco
Aix-en- Cote d'Azur
Provence Provence
Camargue
Marseille A8 Cannes
A5
57
0 A St-Tropez
Golfe du Lion Toulon
Iles
d'Hyères
Bastia
MEDITERRANEAN SEA L’Ile Rousse
Ajaccio
Calvi Corsica
Ajaccio
1 Paris
Paris is a city of more than two million people, and has been
the economic, political, and artistic hub of France since Roman
times. During the medieval and Renaissance periods, Paris
dominated northern Europe as a religious and cultural center.
The city was rejuvenated in the mid-19th century, when its
slums were replaced with the elegant avenues and boulevards
that make modern Paris a delight to stroll around. Today, the
Notre-Dame, viewed from the tranquil
city strives to be at the heart of
setting of Square Jean XXIII
a unified Europe. Chic cafés, AV E M A
gourmet restaurants, and R

U
E GR DE
fashionable shopping are AM
AV
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WAENUE
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the major attractions G EN U HO
AV
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for many visitors. FRIED
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RUE
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Sight / Place of interest R
E
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V
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Sights at a Glance
1 Ile de la Cité w Jardin des Tuileries Greater Paris (see inset map)
2 Notre-Dame pp154–5 e Musée de l’Orangerie d Montmartre
3 Sainte-Chapelle r Place de la Concorde f Parc de la Villette
4 Centre Pompidou t Musée d’Orsay g Cimetière du Père Lachaise
5 Musée Picasso y Musée Rodin h La Défense
6 Place des Vosges u Les Invalides j Bois de Boulogne
7 Place de la Bastille i Eiffel Tower k Château de Versailles pp168–9
8 Panthéon o Musée du Quai Branly l Basilique St-Denis
9 Jardin du Luxembourg p Palais de Chaillot z Disneyland Paris
0 St-Germain-des-Prés a Arc de Triomphe x Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte
q Musée du Louvre pp158–60 s Champs-Elysées c Château de Fontainebleau
PA R I S  151
Lille
Greater Paris
Getting Around Charles de
Gaulle Airport
N1
Pontoise
The Parisian subway consists of
A1
16 metro lines, referred to by A1
5
Enghien
their number and terminus Le Bourget 04
St Denis Airport A1
names. In central Paris, these
N184
lines overlap the routes of the
A1
4
RER commuter trains, which A86 N3
Bobigny
reach outlying areas. Buses are Disneyland
ine
N13
(10 km)
Se
often the fastest way to travel Nanterre A3
short distances. The city’s night A13
St Germain Montreuil
buses are called Noctiliens.
Taxis are expensive, but handy Rouen Boulogne
Reims
after the metro shuts down. A
A86
N7
self-service bike system, Vélib,
N20
Versailles
operates in central Paris. A86 Sceaux Créteil
Havre
4
Caumartin Orly
N10
A10
0 km Airport
T
BOULE 10
HE
A6
RU VARD
NC
E HAUSS
N6
MANN 0 miles 10 Fontainebleau Vaux-le-Vicomte
RO
AU Opéra
BE (40 km) (20 km)
NES
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RU
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Area of main map

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Western end of the Ile de la Cité, where the island is crossed by the Pont Neuf
1 Ile de la Cité bridge in Paris, the Pont Neuf separated by pencil-like columns
q Châtelet, Cité. Conciergerie: 2 Blvd (new bridge), which dates back soaring 15 m (50 ft) to the star-
du Palais. Tel 01-53 40 60 80. Open to 1578. The colorful Marché aux studded roof. More than 1,100
daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & Fleurs et Oiseaux takes place biblical scenes from the Old and
8 (phone to check). ∑ conciergerie. daily in the Place Louis Lépine New Testaments are depicted,
monuments-nationaux.fr and is the city’s most famous as well as the story of how the
flower market. On Sundays, relics were brought to Sainte-
This boat-shaped island on the caged birds are also sold. Chapelle. The 86 panels of the
Seine is the nucleus of Paris. The circular Rose Window, which are
capital’s name derives from the best seen at sunset, tell the
Parisii, one of the Celtic tribes 2 Notre-Dame story of the Apocalypse.
who lived here in the 3rd century See pp154–5. Badly damaged during the
BC. The settlement was later Revolution, and converted into
expanded by the Romans, the a flour warehouse, the church
Franks, and the Capetian kings. 3 Sainte-Chapelle was renovated a century later
Remains of the earliest 4 Boulevard du Palais. Tel 01-53 40 60 by architect Viollet-le-Duc. The
buildings can be seen in the 80. q Cité. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, spire, erected in 1853, rises
Crypte Archéologique, below May 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 75 m (245 ft) into the air.
the square in front of Notre-
Dame cathedral, which stands Hailed as one of the great
at one end of the island. At the architectural masterpieces of
other end is another Gothic the Western world, this church
masterpiece: the Sainte-Chapelle was likened to “a gateway to
church, surrounded by the huge heaven” in the Middle Ages.
complex of buildings forming the Sainte-Chapelle was built in
Palais de Justice. One of these, 1248 to house sacred relics,
the sinister-looking Conciergerie, including Christ’s Crown of
was a prison from 1391 until Thorns, purchased from the
1914. During the French Revol- Byzantine emperor at great
ution, it filled to overflowing, and expense by the devout King
Marie-Antoinette was held in a Louis IX.
tiny cell here until her execution The church consists of two
in 1793. The Conciergerie has a chapels. The lower chapel was
superb Gothic Hall and a 14th- used by servants and minor
century clock tower. To the far officials, while the exquisite
east of the island, tiny Ile St Louis upper chapel, reached by
is a haven of riverside quays and means of a narrow, spiral
quiet streets. There are many fine staircase, was reserved for the
restaurants and chic shops here. royal family and courtiers. This
Crossing the western end of chapel has many glorious
the Ile de la Cité is the oldest stained-glass windows, The Gothic Sainte-Chapelle church
PA R I S  153
On his death, the French state houses accommodate antiques

inherited many of his works stores and fashionable cafés.
in lieu of death duties, opening The square has been the
a museum to display them in scene of many historical events
1986. Housed in a 17th-century over the centuries, including a
mansion originally built for a three-day tournament in
salt-tax collector, the collection celebration of the marriage of
comprises more than 200 Louis XIII to Anne of Austria in
paintings, 158 sculptures, 1615. Among the square’s
100 ceramic works, and some famous former residents are
3,000 sketches and engravings. the literary hostess, Madame de
The full extent of Picasso’s Sévigné, born here in 1626,
artistic development is Cardinal Richelieu, pillar of the
Pipes and ducts on the outside of the presented, from the somber monarchy, and Victor Hugo,
Centre Pompidou Blue period Self-Portrait (1901) who lived in one of the
to Cubist collages and houses for 16 years.
4 Centre Pompidou Neoclassical works, such as
Pl G. Pompidou. Tel 01-44 78 12 33. Pipes of Pan. Highlights include
q Rambuteau, Châtelet, Hôtel de The Two Brothers (1906), The 7 Place de la Bastille
Ville. W Châtelet-Les-Halles. @ 21, Kiss (1969), and Two Women
q Bastille.
29, 38, 47 & many others. Musée Running on the Beach (1922).
National d’Art Moderne: Open There is also a sculpture garden. Nothing remains of the
11am–10pm Wed–Mon. Closed May infamous prison stormed
1. & 8 7 ∑ centrepompidou.fr by the revolutionary mob on
6 Place des Vosges July 14, 1789, the event that
With its skeleton of struts, ducts, sparked the French Revolution.
q Bastille, St-Paul.
and elevators scaling the outside A row of paving stones from
of the building, and offering fine This perfectly symmetrical No. 5 to No. 49 Boulevard Henri
views of the city, this famous square, laid out in 1605 by IV traces the line of former
cultural center has room for a Henri IV, and known as Place fortifications.
vast exhibition area inside. Royale, was once the residence The 52 m (170 ft), hollow
Among the artists featured of the aristocracy. Considered bronze Colonne de Juillet
in the Musée National d’Art among the most beautiful in stands in the middle of the
Moderne are Matisse, Picasso, the world by Parisians and traffic-clogged square to
Miró, and Pollock, representing visitors alike, the square is honor the victims of the July
such schools as Fauvism, Cubism, surrounded by 36 houses, Revolution of 1830. On the
and Surrealism. Star attractions nine on each side. Built of south side of the square (at
are Sorrow of the King (1952) by brick and stone, with dormer 120 Rue de Lyon) is the 2,700-
Matisse, and Georges Braque’s The windows over arcades, they seat Opéra Bastille, completed
Duo (1937). A library is housed on have survived intact for almost in 1989, the bicentennial of
the first, second, and third floors, 400 years. Today, the historic the French Revolution.
while temporary exhibitions are
held on the first and sixth floors.
Outside, the piazza is usually
full of crowds watching the
street performers. On one side
of the square, the Atelier
Brancusi is a reconstruction of
the workshop of Romanian-
born artist Constantin Brancusi
(1876–1957), who left his entire
oeuvre to the nation.
5 Musée Picasso
Hôtel Salé, 5 Rue de Thorigny.
Tel 01-42 71 25 21. q St-Sébastien
Froissart, St-Paul. Open Tue–Sun.
&8-7
∑ museepicassoparis.fr
The Spanish-born artist Pablo

Picasso (1881–1973) spent
most of his life in France. Central fountain and fine Renaissance houses in the Place des Vosges
2 Notre-Dame
No other building embodies the history of . West Front
Paris more than Notre-Dame. It stands Three main portals with
superb statuary, a central
majestically on the Ile de la Cité, cradle of the
rose window, and an
city. Built on the site of a Roman temple, the openwork gallery are the
cathedral was commissioned by Bishop de outstanding features of
Sully in 1160. The first stone was laid in 1163, the cathedral’s facade.
marking the start of two centuries of toil by
armies of medieval architects and craftsmen.
It has been witness to great events of French
history ever since, including the coronation
of Napoleon Bonaparte (1804) and the state
funeral of Charles de Gaulle (1970).
During the Revolution, the building
was desecrated and rechristened
the Temple of Reason. Extensive
renovations (including the
addition of the spire and
gargoyles) were carried out in
the 19th century by architect
Viollet-le-Duc.
. Galerie des Chimières

The cathedral’s grotesque
gargoyles (chimières) perch
menacingly around ledges
high on the facade.
KEY
1 The west rose window depicts

the Virgin in a medallion of rich reds
and blues.
2 The kings’ gallery features 28
kings of Judah gazing down from
above the main door.
3 The south tower houses
Emmanuel, the cathedral’s most
sonorous bell.
4 The spire, designed by Viollet-
le-Duc, soars to a height of 90 m
(295 ft).
5 The transept was completed
during the reign of Louis IX, in the
13th century.
6 The treasury houses the
cathedral’s religious treasures, . Portal of the Virgin
including ancient manuscripts A statue of the Virgin surrounded
and reliquaries. by kings decorates this massive
13th-century portal.

PA R I S  155
6 Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame.
Tel 01-42 34 56 10. Open
8am–6:45pm daily, to 7:15pm Sat
& Sun (Treasury: 9:30am–6pm
Mon–Fri, to 6:30pm Sat; from
1:30pm Sun; towers: daily.)
5 8am, 9am, noon, 6:15pm
Mon–Fri; 8am, 9am, noon,
. Flying Buttresses 6:30pm Sat; 8:30am, 10am,
Jean Ravy’s spectacular flying buttresses at the east 11:30am, 12:45pm, 6:30pm Sun.
end of the cathedral have a span of 15 m (50 ft). & for Treasury and towers. 8
Transport
q Cité. @ 21, 38, 47, 85, 96 to
Ile de la Cité.
. South Rose Window

The south facade window, with its
central depiction of Christ, is an
impressive 13 m (43 ft) in diameter.
Statue of Virgin and Child

Against the southeast pillar of the
crossing stands the 14th-century
statue of the Virgin and Child. It The Cathedral from the Left Bank
was brought to the cathedral from Notre-Dame’s spectacular island setting is
the chapel of St. Aignan and is enhanced by the trees of Square Jean XXIII,
known as Notre-Dame de Paris a formal garden laid out at the eastern end
(Our Lady of Paris). of the Ile de la Cité.
Street by Street: Latin Quarter

Since the Middle Ages, this riverside quarter has St-Séverin
been dominated by the Sorbonne – it acquired its Begun in the 13th
name from early Latin-speaking students. The area century, this beautiful
church took three
is generally associated with artists, intellectuals, centuries to build and
and a bohemian way of life, and has a history of is a fine example of
political unrest. In 1871, the Place St-Michel the Flamboyant
became the center of the Paris Commune, and in Gothic style.
May 1968, it was one of the sites of the student
uprisings that briefly engulfed the city.
Q
U
St-Michel A
I
S
T
M
IC
H
E
L
H A R P E
PE
L A
NT
D E
. Boulevard St-Michel
PO
E L
The northern end of the E

U
T
H
Boul’Mich, as it is affectionately R
TI
I C
PE
known, is a lively mélange of
M
cafés, bookstores, and clothes
U
D
stores, with nightclubs and
S T
E
RU
experimental film houses
V D
nearby.
B L
B L
V
D
S T
ES
Cluny- La Sorbonne G
E R
U
M
Q
A
I N
C
JA
ST
Little Athens
D
takes its name

LV
from the many

B
Greek restaurants
D
B
LV
R
situated in its D
A
picturesque S
N
T
E
streets. G
H
E
R
T
R M
U
E
E
U
D
R
E
S
E
C
O
LE
S
. Musée National du
Moyen Age
The museum holds a fine
collection of medieval art,
with many beautiful tapestries.
This detail is from the late
15th-century series of tapestries
The Lady with the Unicorn. 0 meters 100
0 yards 100

PA R I S  157
9 Jardin du
La Sorbonne
Luxembourg
Seat of the University of Paris
q Odéon. W Luxembourg.
until 1969, the Sorbonne was
established in 1257 by Robert Open daily.
de Sorbon, confessor to Louis This graceful and historic area
IX, to enable poor scholars to offers a peaceful haven in the
study theology. It achieved heart of Paris. The gardens,
fame as a center of learning which cover 25 ha (60 acres),
in the late Middle Ages. The
were opened to the public in
first printing house in France
the 19th century by their then
was founded here in 1469.
Suppressed during the owner, the Comte de Provence.
Revolution for opposition They are centered on the
to liberal 18th-century Luxembourg Palace, which was
philosophical ideas, and built for Marie de Médicis, the
re-established by Napoleon widow of Henri IV, and is now
in 1806, the Sorbonne split View of the Panthéon from the Jardin the home of the French Senate.
N T
P OE T I
T
into 13 separate universities du Luxembourg Dominating the gardens is an

in 1971. Lectures are still held octagonal lake surrounded
on the original site. 8 Panthéon by formal terraces, where
Place du Panthéon. Tel 01-44 32 18 00 sunbathers gather on fine
q Place Monge, Cardinal-Lemoine. summer days.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Jul 14,
S
0 St-Germain-
E Dec 25. & 8
IN
E
Famous as the last resting place des-Prés
U
A
T LE
of some of France’s greatest 3 Place St-Germain-des-Prés.
N B citizens, this magnificent church Tel 01-55 42 81 33. q St-Germain-
Q
O U
P O
U
I
D was built between 1764 and des-Prés. Open daily. 8 (reserve
A
D 1790 to honor Sainte Geneviève, in advance).

patron saint of Paris. During the
E
Revolution, it was turned into a Originating in 558 as a basilica

M
O
pantheon to house the tombs to house holy relics, this is

N
of the illustrious. the oldest church in Paris.

T E
Based on Rome’s pantheon, St-Germain had become a

B
E
the temple portico has 22 powerful Benedictine abbey

L
L
Corinthian columns, while the by the Middle Ages, but was

O
tall dome was inspired by that largely destroyed by fire in 1794.

of St. Paul’s in London (see p66). Major restoration took place in
R U
Geneviève’s life is celebrated in the 19th century. A single tower

E
a series of 19th-century nave survives from the original three,

L A
murals. Many French notables housing one of the most ancient

St-Julien- rest in the crypt, including belfries in France. Famous tombs
G R
le-Pauvre, one Voltaire, Rousseau, and Victor include that of 17th-century

A N
of the oldest Hugo. The ashes of Pierre and philosopher, René Descartes.
churches in Marie Curie are also held here. After World War II, the area
G E
Paris, dates attracted writers

back to the
and artists,
12th century.
A including one
IN
of the leading
Maubert-Mutualité figures of the
Existentialist
movement, Jean-
Paul Sartre, and
writer Simone de
Beauvoir. Bars
and cafés, such
Key
as Les Deux
Suggested route Magots and the
Café de Flore,
which were their
daily haunts, are
now popular
De Médicis fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg with tourists.
q Musée du Louvre
The Musée du Louvre, containing one of the world’s most
important art collections, has a history dating back to
medieval times. First built as a fortress in 1190 by King
Philippe-Auguste, it lost its dungeon and keep in the reign
of François I, who commissioned a Renaissance-style building. The Louvre’s east facade, added
Thereafter, four centuries of kings and emperors improved in the 17th century
and enlarged the palace. It was first opened as a museum
in 1793 under the First Republic.
Building the Louvre

Over many centuries, the Louvre
was enlarged by a succession of
French rulers and, latterly, by the
state, shown below with their dates.
Major Alterations
Reign of François I (1515–47)
Catherine de’ Médici (about 1560)
Reign of Henri IV (1589–1610)
Reign of Louis XIII (1610–43)
Reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715)
Reign of Napoleon I (1804–15)
Reign of Napoleon III (1852–70)
François Mitterrand (1981–95)
KEY
1 The Jardin du Carrousel was 6 The Hall Napoléon, where

once the grand approach to the temporary exhibitions are held,
Tuileries Palace, which was set is situated under the pyramid.
ablaze in 1871 by insurgents of
7 The Cour Napoléon dates
the Paris Commune. mostly from the 19th century.
2 The Carrousel du Louvre
8 Sully Wing
underground visitors’ complex
(1993), with galleries, shops, 9 Cour Carrée
restrooms, parking, and an 0 Philippe-Auguste’s old
information desk, lies beneath the fortress, with its distinctive tower
Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. and keep, was transformed into a
3 The inverted glass pyramid
royal residence by Charles V in
brings light to the subterranean about 1365.
complex, echoing the new main q The Salle des Caryatides
entrance to the museum in the is named after the four
Cour Napoléon. monumental statues created by
4 Cour Marly is a glass-roofed
Jean Goujon in 1550 to support
courtyard that houses the famous the upper gallery. Built for Henri II,
Marly Horses, sculpted by Antoine it is the oldest room in the palace.
Coysevox (1706) and Guillaume w Cour Visconti–Islamic Art . Arc de Triomphe
Coustou (1745) for the royal du Carrousel
e Denon Wing
château at Marly. This triumphal arch was built
r Mona Lisa
5 Richelieu Wing to celebrate Napoleon’s
military victories in 1806.
PA R I S  159
The Glass Pyramid
Plans for the Practical Information
modernization and Entrance through Pyramid
expansion of the Louvre or directly from metro.
were first conceived in Tel 01 40 20 53 17.
1981. These included the W Châtelet-les-Halles.
transfer of the Ministry of h Carrousel du Louvre
Finance from the (entrance via Ave du Général
Richelieu Wing to offices Lemmonnier); Place du Louvre,
elsewhere and a new Rue St-Honoré.
main entrance. This took Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon
the form of a metal and (to 9:45pm Wed & Fri, except
glass pyramid designed by architect I.M. Pei. Opened in 1989, the public hols). Closed Jan 1,
pyramid enables the visitor to see the surrounding buildings, May 1, Aug 15, Dec 25.
while allowing light down into the underground visitors’ & 7 partial. 8 phone
reception area. 01 40 20 59 90. ∑ louvre.fr
Transport
q Palais-Royal, Louvre Rivoli,
Musée du Louvre. @ 21, 24, 27,
39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95.
Pyramid
entrance
. Perrault’s Colonnade
The east facade, with its majestic rows
of columns, was built by Claude
Perrault, who worked on the
Louvre with Louis Le Vau in
the mid-17th century.
. Medieval Moats
The base of the twin towers
and the drawbridge support of
Philippe-Auguste’s fortress can
be seen in the excavated area.
Exploring the Louvre’s Collection Greek, Etruscan, and

Owing to the vast size of the Louvre’s collection, it is useful Roman Antiquities
to set a few viewing priorities before starting. The collection The famous Greek marble
of European paintings (1400–1848) is comprehensive, with statues here, the Winged Victory
of Samothrace and the Venus de
more than half the works by French artists. The extensively
Milo, both date from the
renovated departments of Oriental, Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan, Hellenistic period (late 3rd to
and Roman antiquities are of world renown and feature 2nd century BC). A highlight
numerous new acquisitions and rare treasures. The hugely of the Roman section is a
varied display of objets d’art includes furniture, jewelry, 2nd-century AD bronze head of
scientific instruments, and armor. the Emperor Hadrian. Other fine
pieces include a bust of Agrippa
and a basalt head of Livia. The
star of the Etruscan collection
European Sculpture: is the terra-cotta sarcophagus
1100 to 1848 of a married couple. Among the
The French section opens with vast array of earlier fragments,
a 12th-century figure of Christ a geometric head from the
and a head of St. Peter. Several Cyclades (2700 BC) and a
works by French sculptor Pierre swan-necked bowl hammered
Puget (1620–94) are assembled out of a gold sheet (2500 BC)
in a glass-covered courtyard. are noteworthy.
Other masterpieces of French
sculpture, including Jean-
Antoine Houdon’s busts of Objets d’Art
Diderot and Voltaire, stand in More than 8,000 items feature
the Cour Marly. A notable in this collection, many of
Flemish sculpture is which came from the Abbey
Adrian de Vries’s long- of St-Denis, where the kings
The famously enigmatic Mona Lisa (c.1504), limbed Mercury and of France were crowned.
by Leonardo da Vinci Psyche (1593). Treasures include a
Michelangelo’s Slaves serpentine plate from the
and Benvenuto Cellini’s 1st century AD and a
European Painting: Fontainebleau Nymph golden scepter made for
1400 to 1848 are among the many King Charles V in about
Notable Flemish paintings splendid Italian works. 1380. The French crown
include Jan van Eyck’s Madonna jewels include the
of the Chancellor Rolin (c.1435). splendid coronation
The fine Dutch collection feat- Oriental and crowns of Louis XV and
ures Self-portrait and Bathsheba Egyptian Napoleon, scepters, and
(1654), both by Rembrandt. Antiquities swords. The Regent,
Among important German Important works of one of the purest
works are a Venus (1529) by Mesopotamian art diamonds in the
Lucas Cranach and a portrait include one of the world, worn by Louis
of Erasmus by Hans Holbein. world’s oldest docu- XV at his coronation
Italian paintings are arranged ments, a basalt block, in 1722, is also on
chronologically, and include Fra bearing a proclamation Venus de Milo show. An entire room
Angelico’s Coronation of the of laws by Babylonian is taken up with a series
Virgin (1435) and the celebrated King Hammurabi from about of tapestries, the Hunts of
Mona Lisa (1504) by Leonardo 1750 BC. Maximilian, executed for
da Vinci. The warlike Assyrians are Emperor Charles V in 1530.
Outstanding French works represented by delicate The large collection of French
are represented by Enguerrand carvings, and a fine example furniture ranges from the 16th
Quarton’s Villeneuve-lès-Avignon of Persian art is the enameled to the 19th centuries, and
Pietà (1455) and the delightfully brickwork depicting the king’s includes pieces by exceptional
frivolous The Bathers (1770) archers (5th century BC). furniture-maker André Charles
by Fragonard. Egyptian art on display, Boulle. He is particularly
Among English artists dating from between 2500 and noted for his technique
featured are Gainsborough, 1400 BC, and mostly produced of inlaying copper and
Reynolds, and Turner, while for the dead, includes lifelike tortoiseshell. Among more
the Spanish collection has funeral portraits, such as the unusual items is Marie-
portraits by Goya and works Squatting Scribe, and several Antoinette’s inlaid steel
by El Greco and Zurbarán. sculptures of married couples. and bronze writing desk.
PA R I S  161
with lime and chestnut trees and r Place de la

modern sculptures. Also in the
gardens, two royal tennis courts
Concorde
built in 1851 and known as the q Concorde.
Jeu de Paume – literally “game
of the palm” – now host One of Europe’s most
exhibitions of contemporary art. magnificent and historic
squares, covering more than
8 ha (20 acres), the Place de la
e Musée de
Concorde was a swamp until
l’Orangerie the mid18th century. It
Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la became Place Louis XV in
Concorde. Tel 0144 77 80 07. 1763, when royal architect
q Concorde. @ 24, 42, 52, 72, 73, JacquesAnge Gabriel was
84, 94. Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon. asked by the king to design
Closed May 1, Dec 25. & 8 = 7 a suitable setting for an
∑ musee-orangerie.fr equestrian statue of himself.
Neoclassical statues and urns in the He created an open octagon,
Jardin des Tuileries The museum first opened to with only the north side
the public in 1927 with an containing mansions.
w Jardin des Tuileries exhibition of Claude Monet’s The statue, which lasted
q Tuileries, Concorde. Open Apr,
crowning work, his celebrated here less than 20 years,
May, Jun, Aug, Sep: 7am–9pm daily; waterlily series – known as the was replaced by the
Jul: 7am–11pm; Oct–Mar: Nymphéas, and they still take guillotine (the Black
7:30am–7pm daily. pride of place here. Most of the Widow, as it came to
canvases were painted between be known), and the
These gardens once belonged 1899 and 1921 in the garden at square was renamed
to the Palais des Tuileries, a Giverny, Normandy, where Place de la Révolution.
palace which was razed to the Monet lived from 1883 until On January 21, 1793,
ground during the time of the his death at the age of 86. Louis XVI was beheaded
Paris Commune in 1871. This superb work is here, followed by more
The gardens were laid out in complemented by the Walter than 1,300 other
the 17th century by André Le Guillaume collection of artists of victims, including Marie
Nôtre, royal gardener to Louis the Ecole de Paris, from the late Antoinette, Madame du
XIV. He created a Neoclassical Impressionist era to the inter Barry, Charlotte Corday
garden with a broad central war period. Among a number of (Marat’s assassin), and
avenue, regularly spaced terraces, paintings by Cézanne are still revolutionary leaders
and topiary arranged in geo lifes, portraits such as Madame Danton and
metric designs. A project which Cézanne, and landscapes. The Robespierre. The
started in 1998 created a garden collection also features The Red bloodsoaked square
Rock. There are 24 was optimistically
canvases by Renoir, renamed Place de
one the most la Concorde after
notable of which is the Reign of Terror
Les Jeunes Filles au finally came to an
Piano. Picasso is end in 1794.
represented by early The grandeur
works, such as The of the square was Obelisk in Place de
Female Bathers. Henri enhanced a few la Concorde
Rousseau has nine decades later when
paintings, including the 3,200yearold Luxor obelisk
The Wedding and Le was presented to King Louis
Carriole du Père Junier. Philippe as a gift from the
Among outstanding viceroy of Egypt (who also
portraits is that of by donated Cleopatra’s Needle in
Modigliano. Works London). Two fountains and
by Sisley, Derain, eight statues personifying
and Utrillo are also French cities were also installed.
featured. All the Flanking the Rue Royale on
works are bathed the north side of the square are
in the natural light two of Gabriel’s Neoclassical
that filters through mansions, the Hôtel de la
Entrance to the great collection of Impressionist and other the windows of Marine and the exclusive
paintings at the Musée de l’Orangerie the museum. Hôtel Crillon.
u Les Invalides
q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne.
W Invalides. @ 28, 63, 69 & many
others. Hôtel des Invalides: Tel 08-10
11 33 99. Open daily. Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. St-Louis-des-
Invalides, Museums & Dôme Church:
Open daily (see website for times).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Jun 17, Nov 1,
Dec 25, first Mon of each month
(except Jul & Aug). & 8 7
restricted. ∑ musee–armee.fr
This vast ensemble of

monumental buildings is one of
the most impressive architectural
Interior of the Musée d’Orsay, retaining its original station architecture sights in Paris. The imposing
Hôtel des Invalides, from which
t Musée d’Orsay display of Art Nouveau, the area takes its name, was
Rue de la Légion d’Honneur. Tel 01-40
including Lalique glassware. commissioned by Louis XIV in
49 49 78. q Solférino. W Musée Impressionist works on the 1671 for his wounded and
d’Orsay. @ 24, 68, 69, 84 & many upper level include Renoir’s homeless veterans. Designed by
others. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Bal du Moulin de la Galette Libéral Bruand, it was completed
May 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 (1876). Matisse’s Luxe, Calme et in 1676 by Jules Hardouin-
∑ musee-orsay.fr Volupté is a highlight of the Mansart. Nearly 6,000 soldiers
post-1900 collection. once resided here; today, there
Originally built as a railroad are fewer than 100. Behind the
terminus in the heart of Paris, Hôtel’s harmonious Classical
Victor Laloux’s superb building, y Musée Rodin facade – a masterpiece of French
completed in 1900, narrowly 17th-century architecture – are
79 Rue de Varenne. Tel 01-44 18 61 10.
avoided demolition in the q Varenne. W Invalides. @ 69, 82, several museums.
1970s. In 1986, it reopened as 87, 92. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, The Musée de l’Armée is one
the Musée d’Orsay, with much May 1, Dec 25. & 7 restricted. of the most comprehensive
of the original architecture ∑ musee-rodin.fr museums of military history in
preserved. The majority of the the world, with exhibits covering
exhibits are paintings and Auguste Rodin (1840–1917), all periods from the Stone Age
sculptures dating from between widely regarded as one of to World War II. Among items on
1848 and 1914, but there are France’s greatest sculptors, lived display are François I’s ivory
also displays of furniture, the and worked here in the hunting horns and a
decorative arts, and cinema. Hôtel Biron, an elegant selection of arms from
The social, political, and 18th-century mansion, China, Japan, and India.
technological context in from 1908 until his The Musée de
which these diverse visual arts death. In return for a l’Ordre de la Libération
were created is explained. state-owned flat and (closed until mid-2015)
Paintings from before 1870 studio, Rodin left his was set up to honor
are on the ground floor, work to the nation, feats of heroism
presided over by Thomas and it is now during World War II,
Couture’s massive Romans in the exhibited here. while the Musée des
Age of Decadence (1847). Some of his most Plans-Reliefs has an
Neoclassical masterpieces, such celebrated extensive collection
as Ingres’ La Source, hang near sculptures are of detailed models
Romantic works like Delacroix’s on display in of French forts and
turbulent Tiger Hunt (1854), and the attractive fortified towns,
canvases by Degas and Manet, garden and considered top
Rodin’s The Kiss (1886) at
including the latter’s Le Déjeuner include The secret until as late
the Musée Rodin
sur l’Herbe and Olympia (1863). Burghers of as the 1950s.
The museum’s central aisle Calais, The Thinker, St-Louis-des-Invalides, the
overflows with sculpture, from The Gates of Hell, and Balzac. chapel of the Hôtel des Invalides,
Daumier’s satirical busts of The indoor exhibits are is also known as the “soldiers’
members of parliament to arranged in chronological church.” It was built between
Carpeaux’s exuberant The Dance order, spanning the whole 1679 and 1708 by Jules Hardouin-
(1868). Decorative arts and of Rodin’s career. Major works Mansart, to Bruand’s design. The
architecture are on the middle in the collection include stark, Classical interior is designed
level, where there is also a The Kiss and Eve. in the shape of a Greek cross and
PA R I S  163
has a fine 17th-century organ

by Alexandre Thierry.
The Dôme Church was begun
in 1676 to complement the
existing buildings of Les
Invalides, and to reflect the
splendor of Louis XIV’s reign.
Reserved for the exclusive use
of the Sun King himself, the
resulting masterpiece is one
of the greatest examples of
grand siècle architecture and a
monument to Bourbon glory.
The crypt houses the tomb of
Napoleon – six coffins with an
enormous red sarcophagus
on a pedestal of green granite.
Marshal Foch, the World War I
hero, is also buried here. The top of the gilded altar of the Dôme Church in the Hôtel des Invalides
i Eiffel Tower VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Built for the Universal Exhibition of 1889, Practical Information

and to commemorate the centennial of the Champ-de-Mars. Tel 08-92 70
12 39. Open daily. & 7 limited.
Revolution, the 324 m (1,063 ft) Eiffel Tower = 0∑ tour-eiffel.fr
(Tour Eiffel) was meant to be a temporary
Transport
addition to the Paris skyline. Designed by @ 42, 69, 82, 87.
Gustave Eiffel, it was fiercely decried by q Bir Hakeim. W Champ-
19th-century aesthetes. It was the world’s de-Mars, Trocadéro.
tallest building until 1931, when New York’s
Empire State Building was completed. The third level, 276 m (905 ft)
A number of crazy stunts have been above the ground, offers superb
views. On a clear day, it is
attempted here. In 1912, a local tailor possible to see for 72 km
launched himself from the tower using a (45 miles) – as far as Chartres
cape as wings. He plunged to his death. Cathedral (see pp180–81).
The second level, at 115 m (376 ft),

Double-decker elevators take
is reached either by elevator or by
visitors to the top level, which can
359 steps from the first level.
hold up to 400 people at a time.
The Jules Verne Restaurant

is one of the best in Paris,
offering excellent food and
panoramic views.
The Eiffel Tower

in Figures
• There are a total of 1,665
steps from bottom to top
• The tower is held together
by a total of 2.5 million rivets
• It never sways more than The Eiffel Tower at night
7 cm (2.5 in)
• The tower weighs 10,100
tons
The first level, at 57 m
• 50 tons of paint are
(187 ft), can be reached
used on the tower every
by elevator or by 345
seven years
steps. This level has
been entirely renovated.
Paris Exhibition by Azéma, Louis-

Hippolyte Boileau, and Jacques
Carlu. It is adorned with
sculptures and bas-reliefs, and
the pavilion walls are inscribed in
gold with words composed by
the poet Paul Valéry. The square
between the two pavilions is
highly decorated with bronze
sculptures, ornamental pools, and
shooting fountains. Steps lead
down from here to the Théâtre
National de Chaillot, famous for
its avant-garde productions.
The Cité de l’Architecture
et du Patrimoine is a vast
Trocadéro fountains in front of the Palais de Chaillot complex and information
center incorporating Viollet-
o Musée du Quai building, raised on stilts, is a
sight in itself: the ingenious use
le-Duc’s original Musée des
Monuments Français (1882).
Branly of glass allows the surrounding The Musée de l’Homme, in
37 Quai Branly. Tel 01-56 61 70 00. greenery to act as a natural the west wing (closed until mid-
q Alma-Marceau. W Pont de l’Alma. backdrop for the collection. 2015), traces human evolution
Open Tue–Sun. & 0 = 7 through a series of anthro-
∑ quaibranly.fr pological, archaeological, and
p Palais de Chaillot ethnological displays. Next
Built to give the arts of Africa, Place du Trocadéro 17. q Trocadéro. door is the Musée National
Asia, Oceania, and the Americas W Trocadéro. @ 27, 30, 32, 63, 72, 82. de la Marine, devoted to
a platform as shining as that Museums: Open Wed–Mon. & 8 French naval history.
reserved for Western art, this Aquarium: Tel 01-40 69 23 23. The centerpiece of the lovely
museum boasts a collection of Open daily. Closed Jul 14. & Jardins de Trocadéro is a long
more than 3,000 objects. It is ornamental pool, bordered by
particularly strong on Africa, With its curved colonnaded statues. The gardens themselves
with stone, wooden, and ivory wings, each culminating in a vast are perfect for a quiet evening
masks, as well as ceremonial pavilion, this palace was designed stroll. Also here is the Aquarium
tools. The Jean Nouvel-designed in Neoclassical style for the 1937 de Paris – Cinéaqua.
Baron Haussmann Arc de Triomphe

12 avenues
A lawyer by training and civil servant forming a star
AVE DES CH AMPS ELYSEES
by profession, Georges-Eugène (étoile)

U
Haussmann (1809–91) was

AV
E A
E
appointed Prefect of the Seine

R C
DE
in 1853 by Napoleon III. For A

A
N
FR
17 years Haussmann was e

M
A ´i
IE
V D
responsible for the urban E
DL
H E
V
O
AN
modernization of Paris. V
C
A
H A
D
With a team of the best E
architects and engineers,

he demolished the
chaotic, insanitary streets A V E D E W A G R A M A V E K L E B E R
I L E
of the medieval city and

P L
created a well-ventilated
O
C A
T
E
A
N E V
and ordered capital in a H
O D E L ´ E
geometrical grid. He also A V
m I C
AVE DE LA GRANDE ARMEE
— T
T
increased the number of A

C O
O
R
streetlights and sidewalks, M
N
H
A
E U
R
V G
V
giving rise to the cafés that

A
A O
E
C
enliven modern Parisian

F
E
street life. The plan involved

V
C
A
redesigning the area at one end

of the Champs-Elysées and creating
a star of 12 avenues centered around
the new Arc de Triomphe.

PA R I S  165
The formal gardens that line

the Champs-Elysées from
Place de la Concorde to the
Rond-Point have changed
little since they were laid out
by architect Jacques Hittorff
in 1838, and were used as
the setting for the 1855
World’s Fair. The Grand Palais
and the Petit Palais were also
built here for the Universal
Exhibition of 1900.
The exterior of the massive
Grand Palais combines an
imposing Neoclassical facade
with Art Nouveau ironwork. A
splendid glass roof is decorated
with colossal bronze statues of
flying horses and chariots at its
four corners. Inside is a science
exhibition (Le Palais de la
Découverte) and the Galeries
Nationales du Grand Palais,
which holds frequent
temporary exhibitions.
The east side of the Arc de Triomphe Facing the Grand Palais, the
Petit Palais houses the Musée
a Arc de Triomphe Triomphe is the customary des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de
Place Charles de Gaulle. Tel 01-55 37
rallying point for many victory Paris. Arranged around a
73 77. q W Charles de Gaulle– celebrations and parades. semicircular courtyard and
Etoile. @ 22, 30, 31, 73, 92. Open The viewing platform on top of garden, the palace is similar in
daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, May 8 (am), the Arc overlooks the length style to the Grand Palais, with
Jul 14 (am), Nov 11 (am), Dec 25. & of the Champs-Elysées. Inside Ionic columns, a grand porch,
8 7 limited. ∑ arc-de-triomphe. the Arc, a museum documents and a dome echoing that of
monuments-nationaux.fr its history and construction. the Invalides across the river.
The exhibits are divided into
After his greatest victory, the medieval and Renaissance
Battle of Austerlitz in 1805, s Champs-Elysées objets d’art, paintings, and
Napoleon promised his men drawings; 18th-century
q Franklin D. Roosevelt, George V,
they would “go home beneath furniture and objets d’art; and
Champs-Elysées Clemenceau. Grand
triumphal arches.” The first stone works by the French artists
Palais: Porte A, Ave Eisenhower.
of what was to become the Gustave Courbet, Jean Ingres,
Tel 01-44 13 17 17. Open Wed–Mon
world’s most famous triumphal (only for exhibitions). & Palais de la
and Eugène Delacroix.
arch was laid the following year. Découverte: Tel 01-56 43 20 21.
But disruptions to architect Jean Open Tue–Sun. & Petit Palais: Ave
Chalgrin’s plans – combined Winston Churchill. Tel 01-53 43 40 00.
with the demise of Napoleonic Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
power – delayed completion 7 8 for temporary exhibitions.
until 1836. Standing 50 m
(164 ft) high, the Arc is Paris’s most famous and popular
encrusted with flamboyant thoroughfare had its beginnings
reliefs, shields, and sculptures, in about 1667, when landscape
depicting military scenes such gardener André Le Nôtre exten-
as the Napoleonic battles of ded the royal view from the
Austerlitz and Aboukir. Tuileries by creating a tree-lined
On Armistice Day, 1921, the avenue. The Champs-Elysées
body of the Unknown Soldier (Elysian Fields) has also been
was placed beneath the arch to known as the “triumphal way”
commemorate the dead of since the homecoming of
World War I. The flame of Napoleon’s body from St. Helena
remembrance which burns in 1840. With the addition of cafés
above the tomb is rekindled by and restaurants in the late 19th
various veterans’ organizations century, it became the most Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris,
each evening. Today, the Arc de fashionable boulevard in Paris. in the Petit Palais
The deceptively rustic exterior of Au Lapin Agile, one of the best-known nightspots in Paris
d Montmartre literary haunt Au Lapin Agile, promised to finance its

q Abbesses, Anvers. @ 30, 54, 80,
or “Agile Rabbit,” is now a construction should France
85. Sacré-Coeur: 35 Rue du Chevalier
club. The celebrated Moulin be spared from the impending
de la Barre. Tel 01-53 41 89 00. Rouge nightclub is also in Prussian onslaught. Despite
Open daily. & for crypt and dome. the vicinity. the war and the Siege of Paris,
7 restricted. ∑ sacre-coeur- The name Montmartre, invasion was averted and work
montmartre.com thought to derive from martyrs began in 1876 to Paul Abadie’s
tortured and killed here in designs. The basilica, completed
The steep hill of Montmartre around AD 250, is also in 1914, is one of France’s most
has been associated with artists associated with the grandiose important Roman Catholic
for 200 years. Théodore Géricault Sacré-Coeur. Dedicated to the shrines. It contains many
and Camille Corot came here at Sacred Heart of Christ, the treasures, including a figure of
the start of the 19th century, basilica was built as a result of a the Virgin Mary and Child (1896)
and in the early 20th century, vow made at the outbreak of by Brunet.
Maurice Utrillo immortalized the the Franco-Prussian War in 1870. Below the forecourt, Square
streets in his works. Today, street Businessmen Alexandre Legentil Willette is laid out on the side
artists of varying talents exhibit and Hubert Rohault de Fleury of a hill in a series of descending
their work in the terraces. A funicular railway
Place du Tertre, and takes visitors up from the
thrive on the tourist bottom of the gardens to the
trade. Exhibitions at foot of the steps of the basilica.
the Musée de
Montmartre usually
feature works of f Parc de la Villette
artists associated
30 Ave Corentin-Cariou. q Porte de
with the area, while la Villette. @ 75, 139, 150, 152, 250A.
the Musée d’Art Naïf Cité des Sciences: Tel 01-40 05 80 00.
Max Fourny houses Open Tue–Sun. & 7
almost 600 examples
of naive art. The The old slaughterhouses and
Espace Montmartre livestock market of Paris have
Salvador Dalí displays been transformed into this
more than 300 works massive urban park, designed
by the Surrealist by Bernard Tschumi.
painter and sculptor. The major attraction of the
Much of the area still site is the Cité des Sciences et
preserves its rather de l’Industrie, a hugely popular
louche, prewar science and technology
atmosphere. Former Approach to the Romano-Byzantine Sacré-Coeur basilicia museum. Architect Adrien
PA R I S  167
Fainsilber has created an and foreign companies. La

imaginative interplay of light, Grande Arche is an enormous
vegetation, and water in the hollow cube, spacious enough
high-tech, five-floor building, to contain Notre-Dame
which soars to a height of 40 m cathedral. Designed by Danish
(133 ft). At the museum’s heart architect Otto von Spreckelsen,
is the Explora exhibit, a the arch houses an exhibition
fascinating guide to the worlds gallery and offers superb views
of science and technology. The over the city, though the
Géode, a giant entertainment rooftop is closed to the public.
sphere, houses a huge
hemispherical cinema screen.
In the auditorium of the j Bois de Boulogne
Planetarium, special-effects q Porte Maillot, Porte Dauphine,
projectors create exciting Porte d’Auteuil, Sablons. Open 24 hrs
images of the stars and planets. daily. & to specialist gardens and
Also in the park, the Grande facilities. 7
Halle was the old cattle hall, and
has been turned into a huge Located between the Seine River
exhibition space. The Cité de la Monument to Oscar Wilde in the Père and the western edges of Paris,
Musique is a quirky but elegant Lachaise Cemetery this 865-ha (2,137-acre) park
complex that holds a music offers a vast belt of greenery for
conservatory – home of the Duncan, among others. The strolling, cycling, riding, boating,
world-famous Paris conservatoire equally charismatic Sarah picnicking, or spending a day at
since 1990 – and a concert hall. Bernhardt, famous for her the races. The Bois de Boulogne
There is also a museum covering portrayal of Racine heroines, was once part of the immense
the history of music from the also reposes at Père Lachaise. Forêt du Rouvre. In the mid-19th
Renaissance to the present day. Striking funerary sculpture and century, Napoleon III had the
Built as a venue for pop concerts, famous graves make this a area redesigned and landscaped
the Zénith theater seats more pleasant place for a leisurely, by Baron Haussmann along the
than 6,000 spectators. nostalgic stroll. lines of Hyde Park in London (see
p62). A number of self-contained
parks include the Pré Catelan,
g Cimetière du h La Défense which has the widest beech
Père Lachaise W La Défense. La Grande Arche tree in Paris, and the Bagatelle
Tel 01-47 74 84 24. Open Mon–Sat. gardens, with architectural follies
16 Rue du Repos. q Père-Lachaise,
7 8 ∑ ladefense.fr and an 18th-century villa famous
A Dumas. Tel 01-55 25 82 10. Open
daily. ∑ pere-lachaise.com
for its rose garden. The villa was
This still-expanding skyscraper built in just 64 days as the result
Paris’s most prestigious business city on the western of a bet between the Comte
cemetery is set on a wooded hill edge of Paris is one of the largest d’Artois and Marie-Antoinette.
overlooking the city. The land office developments in Europe By day, the Bois is busy with
was once owned by Père de la and covers 80 ha (198 acres). It families, joggers, and walkers,
Chaise, Louis XIV’s confessor, was launched in 1957 to create but after dark it is notoriously
but it was bought by order of a new home for leading French seedy – and best avoided.
Napoleon in 1803 to create a
completely new cemetery. This
became so popular with the
Parisian bourgeoisie that its
boundaries were extended six
times during the 19th century.
Here are buried celebrities such
as the writer Honoré de Balzac,
the famous playwright Molière,
the composer Frédéric Chopin,
singer Edith Piaf, and actors
Simone Signoret and Yves
Montand. Famous foreigners
interred in the cemetery include
Oscar Wilde and the singer Jim
Morrison. The Columbarium,
built at the end of the 19th
century, houses the ashes of
American dancer Isadora Kiosque de l’Empereur, on an island in the Grand Lac, Bois de Boulogne
k Château de Versailles
Visitors passing through the dazzling state rooms of this
colossal palace, or strolling in its vast gardens, will soon
understand why it was the glory of the Sun King’s reign.
Started by Louis XIV in 1668, the palace grew from a modest
hunting lodge built for his father, Louis XIII, to become the
largest palace in Europe, housing some 20,000 people.
Architect Louis Le Vau built the first section, which expanded
into an enlarged courtyard. From 1678, Jules Hardouin-
Mansart added the north and south wings and the superb . Hall of Mirrors
Hall of Mirrors. He also designed the chapel, completed in This magnificent room, 70 m
1710. The interiors were largely the work of Charles Le Brun, (233 ft) long, was the setting for
great state occasions. It was here
and the great landscape gardener André Le Nôtre redesigned
that the Treaty of Versailles was
the gardens with their monumental fountains. ratified at the end of World War I.
Marble Courtyard
The courtyard is decorated with
marble paving, urns, and busts.
Above the gilded central balcony,
the figures of Hercules and Mars
flank the clock on the pediment.
KEY
1 The South Wing originally

housed the apartments of great
nobles. It is closed to the public.
2 Ministers’ Courtyard
3 Royal Courtyard
. Chapelle Royale The ornate main gate,
Mansart’s last great work, this designed by Mansart, is 4 The Opera House, in the North
Baroque chapel was Louis XIV’s crowned by the royal Wing, was completed for the 1770
final addition to Versailles. The coat of arms. marriage of the future Louis XVI and
beautiful interior is decorated Marie-Antoinette.
with Corinthian columns and 5 Parterres (flowerbeds)
superb Baroque murals.
PA R I S  169
Versailles, Yvelines. Tel 01-30 83
78 00. £ Versailles Chantiers,
Versailles Rive Droite.
W Versailles Rive Gauche.
Open 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun
(5:30pm in winter). Closed some
public hols. & Grand & Petit
Trianon: Open pm daily.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
7 _ Grands Eaux Nocturnes
(Jul–Aug: Sat eve)
∑ chateauversailles.fr
Transport
@ 171 from Paris.
The 17th-century Fountain of Neptune, by Le Nôtre and Mansart
Exploring the Palace mirrors reflecting the light from

The main rooms of the palace tall arched windows.
are on the first floor. Around Another major attraction is
the Marble Courtyard are the the beautiful Chapelle Royale.
private apartments of the king
and queen. Visitors can see the The Gardens of Versailles
King’s Bedroom, where Louis The gardens are a fitting
XIV died, aged 77, in 1715. The counterpart to the colossal
North Wing room next door, the Cabinet palace. Immediately in front
The chapel, Opera House, du Conseil, was where the of the palace is the Water
and picture galleries occupy monarch would receive Parterre, decorated with superb
this wing, which originally ministers and family members. bronze statues. Paths lead
housed royal apartments. On the garden side, the state through the formal gardens,
apartments are richly decorated with their regularly patterned
with colored marbles, carvings flowerbeds and hedges, to
in stone and wood, murals, groves, lakes, fountains, and
and gilded furniture. Each is architectural features, such as
dedicated to an Olympian the Colonnade (1685), a circle
deity. Louis XIV’s throne room, of marble arches designed by
the Salon d’Apollon, designed Mansart. The largest stretch
by Le Brun, is dedicated to of water is the Grand Canal,
the god Apollo. A copy where Louis XIV held
of the famous portrait of spectacular boating parties.
Louis by Hyacinthe The gardens contain two
Rigaud hangs above smaller palaces. The Grand
the fireplace. The war Trianon, built of stone and
theme of the Salon de pink marble, was designed by
la Guerre is reinforced by Mansart in 1687 as a discreet
a stucco relief of Louis XIV hideaway for Louis XIV and
riding to victory. The high his mistress, Madame de
point of the tour is the Hall Maintenon. The nearby Petit
of Mirrors, with its 17 great Trianon (1762) was built
for Madame de
Pompadour, Louis
XV’s mistress. It later
became a favorite
retreat of Marie-
Antoinette. Behind it
is the Hameau, a mini-
village where the
queen would dress
up as a shepherdess
and play with a flock
of groomed and
Marie-Antoinette’s beloved Petit Trianon perfumed lambs.
l Basilique St-Denis 1589), and Louis XVI and Marie- divided into five themed areas.
Antoinette (died 1793). Although these rely heavily on
1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur.
q St-Denis-Basilique. W St-Denis. Of the medieval effigies, the Hollywood nostalgia,
Tel 01-48 09 83 54. Open daily. most impressive are of Charles V Disneyland Paris has tried to
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & to (1364) and a 12th-century give the park a European touch.
the crypt. 8 7 restricted. likeness of Blanche de France “Frontierland,” inspired by
with her dog. Their mask-like the Wild West of 19th-century
Constructed between 1137 and serenity contrasts with the America, can be explored on
1281, the basilica is on the site of realistic Renaissance portrayal paddlewheel steamboats.
the tomb of St. Denis, the first of agony in the sculptures of A roller coaster trundles
bishop of Paris, who was behe- the mausoleum of Louis XII through mountain scenery.
aded in Montmartre in AD 250. and Anne de Bretagne. In “Adventureland,” visitors
According to legend, his decap- In 2011, the skull of Henry IV encounter characters and
itated figure, clutching his head, was buried here, having been tales from adventure fiction,
was seen here, and an abbey in the possession of a private including Caribbean pirates and
was erected to commemorate collector since the 1950s. the Swiss Family Robinson.
the martyred bishop. The basilica Small-town America at the
was the first church to be built in turn of the century is evoked in
the Gothic style of architecture. z Disneyland Paris “Main Street.” Authentic details
From as early as the 7th Marne-la-Vallée, Seine-et-Marne. include horse-drawn vehicles
century, St-Denis was a burial £ TGV from several major cities to and a traditional barber’s shop.
place for French rulers, and all Marne la Vallée/Chessy; also Eurostar Young children will enjoy
the queens of France were from London St. Pancras, Ebbsfleet & “Fantasyland,” devoted to Disney
crowned here. During the Ashford. W Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy. characters and tales, where they
Revolution, many tombs were @ from CDG & Orly airports. can fly with Peter Pan or search
desecrated and scattered, but Tel 08448 008 898. Open daily. the Alice in Wonderland maze
the best were stored, and now & 7 ∑ disneylandparis.com for the Queen of Hearts’ castle.
represent a fine collection of “Discoveryland” has futuristic
funerary art. Memorials include The theme park, which lies architecture and sophisticated
those of Henri II (died 1559) and 32 km (20 miles) east of Paris, technology. Here, visitors can
Catherine de’ Medici (died covers 60 ha (150 acres). It is choose to be miniaturized by a
hapless inventor or sent on a
thrilling space trip.
x Château de Vaux-
le-Vicomte
Maincy, Seine-et-Marne. £ W Melun,
then taxi or shuttle bus (Apr–mid-Nov:
Sat & Sun). Tel 01-64 14 41 90. Open
mid-Mar–mid-Nov: daily. & 7
∑ vaux-le-vicomte.com
Located 64 km (40 miles)

southeast of Paris, the château
enjoys a peaceful rural setting.
Nicolas Fouquet, a powerful
court financier to Louis XIV,
challenged architect Le Vau and
decorator Le Brun to create the
most sumptuous palace of the
day. The result was one of the
greatest 17th-century French
châteaux. However, it also led
to his downfall. Louis was so
enraged – because its luxury cast
the royal palaces into the shade
– that he had Fouquet arrested
and confiscated all his estates.
As befits Fouquet’s grand tastes,
the interior is a gilded banquet of
frescoes, stucco, caryatids, and
giant busts. The Salon des Muses
The tomb of Louis XII and Anne de Bretagne in the Basilique St-Denis boasts Le Brun’s magnificent
PA R I S  171
Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, designed by Le Nôtre, seen across the formal gardens
frescoed ceiling of dancing periods. During the Revolution, reflected in the parquet floor.
nymphs and poetic sphinxes. the apartments were looted by The apartments of Napoleon I
La Grande Chambre Carrée is a mob, and remained bare until house his grandiose throne, in
decorated in Louis XIII style, with the 1800s, when Napoleon the former Chambre du Roi. The
paneled walls and an impressive refurbished the whole interior. complex of buildings also contains
triumphal frieze, evoking Rome. The Cour du Cheval Blanc, the Musée Napoléon, in which
Much of Vaux-le-Vicomte’s once a simple enclosed eight rooms recreate different
fame is due to landscape courtyard, was transformed scenes from the Emperor’s life.
gardener André Le Nôtre (1613– by Napoleon into the main Nearby is the Chapelle de
1700). At Vaux he perfected approach to the château. At la Sainte Trinité, designed for
the concept of the jardin à la one end is the Escalier du Fer- Henri II in 1550. The chapel
française: avenues framed by à-Cheval (1634), an imposing acquired its vaulted and
statues and box hedges, water horseshoe-shaped staircase. frescoed ceiling under Henri IV,
gardens with ornate pools, The interior suites showcase and was completed during the
and geometrical parterres the château’s history as a royal reign of Louis XIII.
“embroidered” with floral motifs. residence. The Galerie François I The gardens are also worth
has a superb collection of exploring. The Jardin Anglais
Renaissance art. The Salle de is a romantic “English” garden
c Château de
Bal, a Renaissance ballroom planted with cypresses and
Fontainebleau designed by Primaticcio (1552), exotic species. The Jardin de
Seine-et-Marne. £ Tel 01-60 71 features emblems of Henri II on Diana features a bronze fountain
50 70. Open Wed–Mon. & 8 7 the walnut-coffered ceiling and of Diana the Huntress.
∑ musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr
Fontainebleau was a favorite

royal residence from the 12th to
the mid-19th century. Its charm
lies in its relative informality and
its spectacular setting in a forest
65 km (40 miles) south of Paris.
The present château dates back
to François I. Drawn to the area
by the local hunting, the
Renaissance king created a
decorative château modeled on
Florentine and Roman styles.
Subsequent rulers enlarged
and embellished the château,
creating a cluster of buildings
in various styles from different The Salle de Bal of Henri II, Château de Fontainebleau
Northern France barrel-vaulted ceiling and Arras

tapestries, is a star attraction.
Northern France’s main sights span thousands of years of Among other fine historic
history, from the awesome megaliths of Carnac, through the buildings are the 17th-century
18th-century grandeur of Nancy’s town architecture, to Ancien Collège des Jésuites,
which is now a school, and the
Strasbourg’s futuristic Palais de l’Europe, seat of the European
Basilique St-Remi, the oldest
Parliament. Its cities boast some of the country’s greatest church in Reims.
cathedrals, such as those of Reims and Rouen. The region’s most Relics of the town’s Roman
famous religious monument is Mont-St-Michel, whose evocative past include the Crypto-
silhouette has welcomed pilgrims since the 11th century. portique, part of the former
forum, and the Porte Mars,
a triumphal Augustan arch.
Moderne et Contemporain, Le The Musée de la Reddition
Vaisseau, a scientific discovery occupies the building that
center for children aged 3–15, served as Eisenhower’s French
and the Musée Alsacien, which headquarters during World War
overflows with exhibits on local II. It was here, in 1945, that the
traditions, arts, and crafts. general received the Germans’
surrender, which ended the war.
3 Reims R Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Marne. * 210,000. £ @ n 08-21 Place du Cardinal Luçon. Open daily.
61 01 60. ∑ reims-tourisme.com 87
Renowned throughout the Environs

world from countless A short drive south of Reims
champagne labels, Reims is Epernay. Here, you can visit
has a rich historical legacy. the cellars of a number of
Strasbourg’s fine Gothic cathedral, The city’s most famous distinguished champagne
surrounded by historic buildings monument is the magnificent “houses,” including those of
Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Moët et Chandon.
2 Strasbourg begun in 1211. For several
centuries, the cathedral was the
Bas Rhin. * 450,000. k 15 km
(8 miles) SW. £ @ n 17 Place de setting for the coronation of 4 Rouen
la Cathédrale (03-88 52 28 28). French kings. Highlights are the Seine Maritime. * 138,000. k 11 km
_ Christmas market (Dec). 13th-century Great Rose Window (7 miles) SE. £ @ n 25 Place de la
∑ otstrasbourg.fr and the west facade, decorated Cathédrale (02-32 08 32 40).
with over 2,300 statues. ∑ rouentourisme.com
Located halfway between Paris On the eve of a coronation,
and Prague, this cosmopolitan the future king spent the night Formerly a Celtic trading post,
city is often known as “the in the Palais du Tau (1690), the Roman garrison, and Viking
crossroads of Europe.” It is also archbishops’ palace, adjoining colony, Rouen became the
home to the European Parliament. the cathedral. capital of the Norman Duchy
A boat trip along the water- Its 15th-century banqueting in 911. Today, it is a rich and
ways that encircle Strasbourg’s hall, the Salle du Tau, with its cultured city that boasts a wealth
Old Town takes in the Ponts-
Couverts – bridges with
medieval watchtowers – and the
old tanners’ district, dotted with
attractive half-timbered houses.
Dating from the late 11th
century, the Cathédrale Notre-
Dame dominates the city. There
are wonderful views from the
viewing platform on the rooftop.
The grand Classical Palais
Rohan houses three museums:
the Musée des Beaux Arts, the
Musée Archéologique, and the
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which
has one of the finest displays of
ceramics in France. Also worth
visiting is the Musée d’Art Statuary on the west facade of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, in Reims
FRANCE  173
views of St-Malo and its offshore

islands. Within the city walls
is a web of narrow, cobbled
streets with tall 18th-century
buildings housing many
souvenir stores, seafood
restaurants, and creperies.
St-Malo’s castle, the Château
de St-Malo dates from the
14th and 15th centuries. The
Detail from the 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry great keep today houses an
interesting museum charting
of splendid historical monuments. from the Norman perspective. It the city’s history. In the three-
Rouen’s Gothic cathedral, the was probably commissioned by towered fortification known as
Cathédrale Notre-Dame, has an Bishop Odo of Bayeux, William’s the Tour Solidor, to the west of
impressive west facade, made half-brother. The 70-m (230-ft) St-Malo, is a museum devoted
famous by the great Impressionist long embroidered hanging is to the ships and sailors that
painter Claude Monet (1840– displayed in a renovated rounded Cape Horn.
1926), who made almost 30 seminary, the Centre Guillaume-
paintings of it. A number of le-Conquérant, which also gives
these can be seen in the city’s a detailed audiovisual account of
8 Carnac
excellent Musée des Beaux Arts. the events leading up to the Morbihan. * 4,600. @ n 74
From the cathedral, the Rue Norman conquest. Avenue des Druides (02-97 52 13 52).
du Gros Horloge leads west, As well as the tapestry, a ∑ ot-carnac.fr
passing under the city’s Great cluster of 15th–19th-century
Clock, to the Place du Vieux buildings and the Gothic This popular town is probably
Marché, where Joan of Arc was Cathédrale Notre-Dame are most famous as one of the
burnt at the stake in 1431. Bayeux’s principal attractions. world’s great prehistoric sites. As
The Flamboyant Gothic Eglise Bayeux was the first town in long ago as 4000 BC, thousands
St-Maclou and Eglise St-Ouen Nazi-occupied France to be of ancient granite rocks were
are two of Rouen’s finest liberated by the Allies following arranged in mysterious lines
churches. The Eglise St-Ouen is the D-Day landings in 1944. On and patterns in the countryside
noted for its restored 14th- the southwest side of the town’s around Carnac by Megalithic
century stained-glass windows. ring road, the Musée Mémorial tribes. Their original purpose
The Musée de la Céramique de la Bataille de Normandie is uncertain, though they are
displays around 1,000 pieces of traces the events of the Battle of thought to have religious
Rouen faïence – colorful glazed Normandy in World War II. significance or to be related to
earthenware – as well as other an early astronomical calendar.
pieces of French and foreign china. E Centre Guillaume-le- Celts, Romans, and Christians
The former family home of Conquérant have since adapted them to
Gustave Flaubert (1821–80) has Rue de Nesmond. Tel 02-31 51 25 50. their own beliefs.
been converted into a museum Open daily. Closed 3 wks Jan, Dec 25 You can see some of the
containing memorabilia from & 26. & 7 menhirs at the Kermario site,
this famous French novelist’s life. on the town outskirts, while
in the center, the Musée de
E Musée des Beaux Arts 6 Mont-St-Michel Préhistoire gives an insight
Square Verdrel. Tel 02-35 71 28 40. See pp174–5. into the area’s ancient history.
Open Wed–Mon. Closed public hols.
&7
7 St-Malo
Ille-et-Vilaine. * 53,000. g £ @
5 Bayeux n Esplanade St-Vincent (08-25 13 52
Calvados. * 15,000. £ @ 00). ( Tue, Fri (Old Town).
n Pont-St-Jean (02-31 51 28). ∑ saint-malo-tourisme.com
∑ bayeux-bessin-tourisme.com
Once a fortified island, St-Malo
The main reason to visit this stands in a commanding position
small town in Normandy is to at the mouth of the river Rance.
see the world-renowned Bayeux In the 16th–19th centuries, the
Tapestry. This incredible work port won prosperity and power
of art depicts William the through the exploits of its sea-
Conqueror’s invasion of England faring population. Intra-muros,
and the Battle of Hastings, which the old walled city, is encircled Menhirs (prehistoric standing stones) in a
took place in the 11th century, by ramparts that provide fine field near Carnac
6 Mont-St-Michel
Shrouded by mist, the silhouette of Mont-St-Michel is one
of the most enchanting sights in France. Now linked to the
mainland by a causeway, the island of Mont-Tombe (Tomb on
the Hill) stands at the mouth of the Couesnon River, crowned
by a fortified abbey that almost doubles its height. Lying
strategically on the frontier between Normandy and Brittany,
Mont-St-Michel grew from a humble 8th-century oratory
to become a Benedictine monastery that had its greatest
influence in the 12th and 13th centuries. Pilgrims known as
miquelots journeyed from afar to honor the cult of St. Michael,
and the monastery was a renowned center of medieval learning.
After the French Revolution, the abbey became a prison. It is . Abbey Church
Four bays of the Romanesque
now a national monument that draws some 850,000 visitors a
nave in the abbey church survive.
year. A footbridge links the island to the mainland year-round Three were pulled down in 1776,
apart from a few hours each year when the tide is too high. creating the West Terrace.
Gautier’s Leap
Situated at the top of the
Inner Staircase, this terrace is
named after a prisoner who
leaped to his death here.
Entrance
Visiting the Abbey La Merveille is Cloisters Refectory

The abbey is built on three levels, which the name given
reflect the monastic hierarchy. The monks to the buildings
lived on the highest level (shown here), in on the north side
an enclosed world of church, cloister, and of the church.
refectory. The abbot entertained his noble
guests on the middle level. Soldiers and Abbey
pilgrims further down on the social scale Church
were received at the lowest level. Guided
tours begin at the West Terrace at the
church (highest) level and end on the
lowest level in the almonry, where alms
were distributed to the poor. West Terrace Great Inner
Gautier’s Leap Staircase

FRANCE  175
n Boulevard de l’Avancée
(02-33 60 14 30).
∑ ot-montsaintmichel.com
Abbey: Tel 02-33 89 80 00.
Open May–Aug: 9am–7pm; Sep–
Apr: 9:30am– 6pm. Night visits
during summer. Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Dec 25. & 5 12:15pm
Tue–Sat; 11:30am Sun. 8 =
∑ monuments-nationaux.fr
Transport
. Cloisters £ to Pontorson, then bus.
With their elegant English Purbeck marble columns,
the cloisters are a beautiful example of early
13th-century Anglo-Norman style.
. La Merveille
The main three-story monastic
complex, added to the church’s
north side in the early 13th century,
is known as La Merveille (The
Marvel). The Knights’ Room, on the
middle floor, has magnificent Gothic
rib-vaulting and finely
decorated capitals.
KEY
1 The ramparts – a series of

fortified walls with imposing
towers – were built following
attacks by the English during
the Hundred Years’ War.
2 Gabriel Tower
3 St. Aubert’s Chapel, built
on an outcrop of rock, dates from
the 15th-century and is dedicated
to Aubert, the founder of
Mont-St-Michel.
4 Tour du Roy
. Grande Rue 5 The Arcade Tower provided
Now crowded with tourists and lodgings for the abbot’s soldiers.
souvenir shops, the pilgrims’ route,
followed since the 12th century, 6 Eglise St-Pierre
climbs up past the Eglise St-Pierre 7 Liberty Tower
to the abbey gates.
The Loire Valley 0 Poitiers

Vienne. * 85,000. k £ @ n 45
Renowned for its sumptuous châteaux, the relics of royal days Place Charles de Gaulle (05-49 41 21
gone by, the glorious valley of the Loire is rich in both history 24). ( Tue–Sun. ∑ ot-poitiers.fr
and architecture. As the Loire runs through the heart of
Three of the greatest battles in
France, so the region embodies the essence of the French
French history were fought
way of life. Its sophisticated cities, luxuriant landscape, and around Poitiers, the most
magnificent food and wine add up to a modern paradise. The famous in 732 when Charles
Loire has long been described as exemplifying la douceur de Martel halted the Arab invasion.
vivre: it combines a leisurely pace of life, a mild climate, and Today, the town is a dynamic
the gentle ways of its inhabitants. The overall impression is regional capital with a rich
architectural heritage.
one of an unostentatious taste for the good things in life. Behind the Renaissance
facade of the Palais de Justice
is the 12th-century great hall
of the palace of Henry II and
Richard the Lionheart. This is
thought to have been the scene
of Joan of Arc’s examination by
a council of theologians in 1429.
Notre-Dame-la-Grande,
whose west front is covered with
superb 12th-century Poitevin
sculpture, stands out among
the city’s churches, as does the
4th-century Baptistère St-Jean,
one of the oldest Christian
buildings in France. The latter
contains Romanesque frescoes.
The Musée Sainte-Croix has
archaeological exhibits, as well
as paintings and sculpture.
Environs
Just 7 km (4.5 miles) north
Tomb of François II in Cathédrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, Nantes of Poitiers, Futuroscope is
a theme park dedicated to
9 Nantes was the birthplace of Anne of state-of-the-art visual techno-
Brittany, who irrevocably joined logy, including the largest
Loire-Atlantique. * 270,000.
k £ @ n 9 Rue des Etats her fiercely independent duchy cinema screen in Europe.
(08-92 46 40 44). ( Tue–Sun. to France by her successive
∑ nantes-tourisme.com marriages to Charles VIII and E Futuroscope
Louis XII. A smaller royal lodging Jaunay-Clan. Tel 05-49 49 11 12. Open
The ancient port of Nantes was lies to the west of it. It was here, check website. Closed Jan–mid-Feb.
the ducal capital of Brittany for in Brittany’s Catholic bastion, that & 7 ∑ futuroscope.com
600 years, but is now considered Henri IV signed the 1598 Edict
a part of the Pays de la Loire. of Nantes, which granted all
Many of its fine 18th- and 19th- Protestants freedom of worship.
century buildings were built on The Musée des Beaux-Arts
profits from the slave trade. has a splendid array of paintings
Modern-day Nantes is a lively representing key movements
city, with good museums, chic from the 15th to the 20th century.
bars and stores, and open spaces. Packed with mementos, books,
The Cathédrale St-Pierre et and maps, the Musée Jules
St-Paul was begun in 1434, but Verne is dedicated to the life and
not completed until 1893. It is works of the writer (1828–1905).
notable for its sculpted Gothic
portals and Renaissance tomb E Musée des Beaux-Arts
of François II (1435–88), the last 10 Rue Georges Clemenceau. Tel 02-
duke of Brittany. 51 17 45 00. Open 10am–6pm Wed–
The Château des Ducs de Mon (to 8pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
Bretagne, now with a museum Easter Mon, May 1 & 8, Nov 1, Dec 25. The high-tech Kinémax cinema at
&7-=
documenting the town’s history, Futuroscope, near Poitiers
FRANCE  177
q Abbaye Royale the mid-16th

de Fontevraud century, and the
cathedral provides
Maine-et-Loire. @ Tel 02-41 51 73 52.
an illustration of
Open daily. Closed Jan, Nov–Feb:
Mon, Dec 25. & 8 7 restricted.
how the Gothic
∑ abbaye-fontevraud.com style developed over
time. The Musée des
Fontevraud Royal Abbey, Beaux Arts, housed
founded in 1101, was the largest in the nearby former
of its kind in France. It now archbishop’s palace,
hosts concerts and exhibitions. overlooks beautiful
The abbey’s nuns lived around gardens. The
the Renaissance Grand Moûtier impressive collection
cloisters, and the leper colony’s features works by the
nurses were housed in the likes of Rembrandt,
St-Lazare priory, now the Rubens, and Degas.
abbey’s hotel. Little remains of The Château Royal
the monastic quarters, but the de Tours, a royal
St-Benoît hospital survives. Most residence between
impressive is the octagonal the 13th and 15th
kitchen in the Tour Evraud, centuries, houses
a rare example of secular modern art François I’s staircase, Château de Blois
Romanesque architecture. exhibitions and
In the nave of the abbey exhibits, which explain François I, and Henri III,
church, the painted effigy of the history of Tours. Château de Blois has the most
Henry Plantagenet (1133–1189), sensational history of all the
Count of Anjou and King of e Château de Loire Châteaux. It was here,
England, lies by those of his in 1588, that the ambitious Duc
wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, who Chenonceau de Guise, leader of the Catholic
died here in 1204, and their son, See pp178–9. Holy League, was murdered on
Richard the Lionheart (1157–1199). the orders of Henri III. The
building itself juxtaposes four
r Blois distinct architectural styles,
w Tours Loir-et-Cher. * 60,000. £ @ reflecting its varied history.
Indre-et-Loire. * 140,000. k £ n Place du Château (02-54 90 41 41). Among Blois’ most impressive
@ n 78 Rue Bernard Palissy ( Sat. religious monuments are the
(02-47 70 37 37). ( Tue–Sun. beautiful three-spired Eglise
∑ tours-tourisme.fr A powerful feudal stronghold St-Nicolas, formerly part of a
in the 12th century, Blois rose 12th-century Benedictine abbey,
The pleasant cathedral city of to glory under Louis XII, who and the Cathédrale St-Louis,
Tours is built on the site of a established his court here in which dominates the eastern
Roman town, and became an 1498. The town remained at half of the city. The cathedral is a
important center of Christianity the center of French royal and 17th-century reconstruction of a
in the 4th century under St. political life for much of the Gothic church that was almost
Martin. In 1461, Louis XI made next century. Today, Blois is destroyed in 1678.
the city the French capital. the quintessential Loire town.
However, during Henri IV’s The partly pedestrianized old + Château de Blois
reign, the city lost favor with quarter is full of romantic Place du Château. Tel 02-54 90 33 33.
the monarchy and the capital courtyards and fine mansions. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
left Tours for Paris. Home to kings Louis XII, &8
The medieval old town, Le
Vieux Tours, is full of narrow
streets lined with beautiful half-
timbered houses. St. Martin’s
tomb lies in the crypt of the
New Basilica, built on the site of
the medieval Old Basilica. Two
towers, the Tour Charlemagne
and the Tour de l’Horloge,
survive from the earlier building.
The foundation stone of the
Cathédrale St-Gatien was laid
in the early 13th century.
Building work continued until The historic town of Blois, viewed from across the Loire
e Château de Chenonceau
Chenonceau, stretching romantically across the Cher
River, is considered by many to be the loveliest of the
Loire châteaux. Surrounded by elegant formal gardens
and wooded grounds, this pure Renaissance building
began life as a modest manor and water mill. Over
the centuries, it was transformed by the wives and
mistresses of its successive owners into a palace
designed solely for pleasure. On July and August
evenings, the Promenade Nocturne allows visitors to
stroll about the gardens accompanied by classical music.
Chambre de Catherine de’ Medici

Henri II’s wife, Catherine, made her own
mark on Chenonceau’s design with this
sumptuous bedchamber.
Formal Gardens
The current designs of the formal
gardens, created by Diane de
Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici,
date from the 19th century.
KEY
1 The Tour des Marques survives

from the 15th-century castle of the
Marques family.
2 The Cabinet Vert was originally
covered with green velvet.
3 Louise de Lorraine’s room was
painted black and decorated with
monograms, tears, and knots in
white after the assassination of her
Chapel Grande Galerie husband, Henri III.
The chapel has a vaulted The elegant gallery is Florentine in 4 The arched bridge over the Cher
ceiling and sculpted style. It was created by Catherine was designed by Philibert de l’Orme
pilasters. The stained glass, de’ Medici in 1570–76 as an in 1559 for Diane de Poitiers. It was
destroyed by a bomb in addition to the bridge built for built on the site of the old water mill.
1944, was replaced in 1953. Diane de Poitiers.
FRANCE  179
Indre-et-Loire. Tel 02-47 23 90 07.
Open daily; times vary – call for
details. & 8 (audio). 7
limited. 0 - =
∑ chenonceau.com
Transport
£ @ from Tours.
Château de Chambord, on the banks of the Closson
t Château de Hundred Years’ War. Later

Chambord captured by the enemy and
accused of witchcraft, she was
Loir-et-Cher. @ to Blois, then taxi or burned at the stake in Rouen
bus. Tel 02-54 50 40 00. Open daily. at the age of 19. Since her
Closed Jan 1, Feb 4, Dec 25. & 8 martyrdom, Joan has become a
pervasive presence in Orléans.
The brainchild of the extravagant A faded grandeur lingers in
François I, the château began as Vieil Orléans, the old quarter,
a hunting lodge in the Forêt de bounded by the imposing
Boulogne. In 1519, the original Cathédrale Sainte-Croix, the
building was razed and Loire, and the Place du Martroi.
Chambord begun, to a design The Maison de Jeanne d’Arc
probably initiated by Leonardo was rebuilt in 1961 on the site
da Vinci. By 1537, the keep, with where Joan lodged in 1429.
its towers and terraces, had been Inside, audiovisual exhibits and
completed by 1,800 men and a short film recreate her life.
three master masons. The A selection of European
following year, François I began art from the 16th to the early
building a private royal pavilion 20th century is on display at the
on the northeast corner, with a Musée des Beaux-Arts.
Diane de Poitiers connecting two-story gallery. His
Diane de Poitiers was Henry II’s
son, Henri II, continued the west E Maison de Jeanne d’Arc
wing with the chapel, and Louis 3 Place du Général de Gaulle. Tel
lifelong mistress, holding court
XIV completed the 440-roomed 02-38 68 32 63. Open Tue–Sun (Oct–
as queen of France in all but
edifice in 1685. Mar: pm only). Closed public hols. &
name. Her beauty inspired
many French artists, who The innovative double-helix
often depicted her in the Grand Staircase was supposedly
role of Diana, the Classical designed by Leonardo da Vinci.
goddess of the hunt. The two flights of stairs ensure
In 1547, Henry offered the that the person going up
Château de Chenonceau to and the person going down
Diane, who improved the cannot meet.
palace by creating stunning
formal gardens and an arched
bridge over the Cher River. y Orléans
After Henry’s accidental
death in 1559, Diane was Loiret. * 113,000. k £ @ n
forced to leave Chenonceau 2 Place de l’Etape (02-38 24 05 05). (
by his widow, Catherine de’ Tue–Sun. _ Fête Jeanne d’Arc (Apr
Medici, in exchange for the 29–May 9). ∑ tourisme-orleans.com
fortress-like Château de
Chaumont. Diane retired to Orléans was the capital of
Anet, and remained there medieval France, and it was
until her death in 1566. here that Joan of Arc battled The lofty interior of the Cathédrale
the English in 1429, during the Sainte-Croix, Orléans
u Chartres Cathedral
According to art historian Emile Male, “Chartres is the mind of
the Middle Ages manifest.” Begun in 1020, the Romanesque
cathedral was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1194. Only
the north and south towers, south steeple, west portal, and
crypt remained. Inside, the sacred Veil of the Virgin relic was
the sole treasure to survive. Peasant and lord
alike labored to rebuild the church in just 25
years. Few alterations were made after 1250 Elongated
Statues
and, fortunately, Chartres was left unscathed These statues
by the Wars of Religion and the French on the Royal
Revolution. The result is an authentic Gothic Portal
cathedral. A program of renovation is ongoing represent Old
Testament
and may result in partial closures. figures.
Gothic Nave
As wide as the Romanesque crypt below
it – the largest in France – the Gothic nave
reaches a lofty height of 37 m (121 ft).
KEY
1 The taller of the two spires

dates from the start of the 16th
century. Flamboyant and Gothic in
style, it contrasts sharply with the
solemnity and relative simplicity of
its Romanesque counterpart.
2 The stained-glass windows on
the west front, are 12th-century lancet
windows. They are celebrated for
their rare blue color, and are among
the oldest of their kind in the world.
3 The Royal Portal (1145–55) and
part of the west front survive from
the original Romanesque church. The
central tympanum has a carving of
Christ in Majesty.
4 The Labyrinth is inlaid in the
nave floor. Pilgrims used to follow the
tortuous route by crawling on their
knees, echoing the Way of the Cross.
5 The vaulted ceiling is supported
by a network of ribs.
6 The St. Piat Chapel was built
between 1324 and 1353.

FRANCE  181
Chartres’ Stained Glass
More than 150 stained-glass windows in the Practical Information
cathedral illustrate biblical stories and daily life Place de la Cathédrale, Chartres,
in the 13th century (bring binoculars if you Eure-et-Loir. Tel 02-37 21 75 02.
can). During both World Wars, the windows Open 8:30am– 7:30pm daily.
were dismantled piece by piece and removed 5 11:45am (in the crypt) & 6pm
for safety. Some windows were restored and Mon–Sat (9am Tue, Fri); 9:15
releaded in the 1970s, and in 2006 further (Latin) & 11am Sun. 7 8
restoration work commenced. Each window ∑ cathedrale-chartres.org
is divided into panels, which are usually read
Transport
from left to right, bottom to top (earth to £ @ from Paris.
heaven). The number of figures or abstract
shapes used is symbolic: three stands for
the Church; squares and the number four
symbolize the material world or the four
elements; circles represent eternal life.
Our Lady of the Pillar

Carved from dark pear
wood, this 16th-century
replica of a 13th-century
statue is a striking shrine
that is often surrounded
by candles.
South Rose Window

The cathedral has three massive
rose windows. The one on the
south front (c.1225) illustrates the
Apocalypse, with Christ in Majesty.
. South Porch
Sculpture on the massive South
Porch (1197–1209) reflects a
selection of New Testament teaching.
Burgundy and the French Alps P Hôtel-Dieu

Rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu. Tel 03-80 24 45
Burgundy is France’s richest province, historically, culturally, 00. Open daily. Closed Dec–Mar:
and gastronomically. The region’s fine wines have inspired 11:30am–2pm daily. & 8 7
awe for centuries, and every year the historic town of Beaune
hosts one of the most famous wine auctions in the world. a Lyon
Dijon is a splendid city, filled with the great palaces of the
Rhône. * 453,000. k 25 km
old Burgundian nobility. The majestic French Alps attract
(16 miles) E. £ @ n Place Belle-
visitors for winter sports, and, in summer, walking and a cour (04-72 77 69 69). ( daily.
host of watersports on the glittering mountain lakes. ∑ lyon-france.com
Dramatically situated on the

after the banks of the Rhône and Saône
Hundred Years’ rivers, Lyon has been a vital
War. Today, it is gateway between the north
considered a and south since ancient times.
medieval jewel, Vieux Lyon, the oldest part of
with its superb the city, is the site of the Roman
multicolored settlement of Lugdunum, the
Burgundian roof commercial and military capital
tiles. It houses of Gau, l founded by Julius
many treasures, Caesar in 44 BC. Vestiges of this
Tympanum sculpture showing Christ and the apostles at including the prosperous city can be seen in
Basilique Ste-Madeleine, Vézelay religious master- the superb Musée de la
piece the Last Civilisation Gallo-Romaine.
i Vézelay Judgement polyptych, by There are also two excavated
Yonne. * 400. @ Basilique Ste- Rogier van der Weyden. Roman amphitheaters: the
Madeleine: Tel 03-86 33 39 50. £ The Hôtel des Ducs de Grand Théâtre, built in 15 BC
Sermizelles, then bus. Open daily. 8 Bourgogne, built in the 14th– to seat 30,000 spectators, and
16th centuries, houses the the smaller Odéon.
Tourists come to Vézelay to visit Musée du Vin de Bourgogne, Other major sights are the
the picturesque Basilique Ste- with displays of traditional 19th-century mock-Byzantine
Madeleine. In the 12th century, winemaking equipment. Basilique Notre-Dame de
at the height of its glory, the Further to the north is the Fourvière, and the Cathédrale
abbey claimed to house the 12th-century Romanesque St-Jean, begun in the 12th
relics of Mary Magdalene, and church the Collégiale Notre- century. Vieux Lyon’s fine
it was a starting point for the Dame, which has a collection Renaissance mansions are the
pilgrimage to Santiago de of fine 15th- century former homes of bankers and
Compostela in Spain (see p292). tapestries. silk merchants.
The star attractions of the
Romanesque church are the
tympanum sculpture (1120–35) The Dukes of Burgundy
above the central doorway, the In the 14th and 15th centuries, the dukes of Burgundy built up one
exquisitely carved capitals in of the most powerful states in Europe, which included Flanders and
the nave and narthex, and the parts of Holland. From the time of Philip the Bold
immense Gothic choir. (1342–1404), the ducal court became a center of art,
chivalry, and immense wealth. The duchy’s demise
came with the death of Charles the Bold in 1477.
o Dijon
See pp184–5.
p Beaune
Côte D’Or. * 23,000. £ @ n
Boulevard Pepreuil (03-80 26 21 30).
_ Baroque Music (Jul).
The indisputable highlight of

the old center of Beaune is the
Hôtel-Dieu. The hospice was
founded in 1443 for the town’s
inhabitants, many of whom Tomb of Philip the Bold in Dijon’s Musée des Beaux Arts (see p184)
were left poverty-stricken
FRANCE  183
d Grenoble
Isère. * 165,000. k £ @ n 14
Rue de la République (04-76 42 41 41).
( Tue–Sun.
Ancient capital of Dauphiné,

Grenoble is a busy and
thriving city, attractively located
at the confluence of the Drac
and Isère rivers, in the shadow
of the mighty Vercors and
Chartreuse massifs.
A cable car from the Quai
Stéphane-Jay, on the north bank
of the Isère, takes you up to the
16th-century Fort de la Bastille,
where you are rewarded with
magnificent views of the city
and surrounding mountains.
From here, paths lead down
through pretty gardens to the
excellent Musée Dauphinois
at the foot of the hill. Housed
in a 17th-century convent, the
museum contains displays on
local history, arts, and crafts.
On the other side of the river,
Cathédrale St-Jean, at the foot of the slopes of Vieux Lyon the focus of life is the Place
Grenette, a lively square lined
The excellent Musée des Beaux attractions of a stay here. Look with sidewalk cafés. Nearby, the
Arts showcases the country’s out for the formidable Palais Place St-André is the heart of
largest and most important de l’Isle, a 12th-century prison the medieval city, overlooked
collection of fine arts after the in the middle of the Thiou canal. by Grenoble’s oldest buildings,
Louvre. The modern works, The turreted Château including the 13th-century
dating from after the mid-1900s, d’Annecy, perched high on Eglise St-André and the
have found a new home in the a hill, affords fine panoramic 15th-century Palais de Justice.
Musée d’Art Contemporain in views. The clear waters of the Also worth visiting is the
the north of the city. An lake are perfect for swimming Musée de Grenoble, the city’s
exquisite display of silks and and watersports. Boat trips leave principal art museum. With
tapestries, some dating back to from the Quai Thiou. works by Chagall, Picasso,
early Christian times, can be and Matisse, the modern
seen in the Musée des Tissus. Environs collection is especially good.
One way to enjoy the area’s
E Musée de la Civilisation spectacular scenery is to take a E Musée de Grenoble
Gallo-Romaine boat to Talloires, a tiny lakeside 5 Place de Lavalette. Tel 04-76 63 44
17 Rue Cléberg. Tel 04-72 38 49 30. village noted for its hotels 44. Open Wed–Mon. Closed Jan 1,
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. and restaurants. May 1, Dec 25. & 8 7
&7
s Annecy
Annecy. * 51,000. £ @ n 1 Rue
Jean Jaurès (04-50 45 00 33). ( Tue,
Fri–Sun. ∑ lac-annecy.com
Annecy is one of the most

beautiful towns in the Alps,
set at the northern tip of Lac
d’Annecy and surrounded by
snowcapped mountains.
A stroll around the town’s small
medieval quarter, with its canals,
flower-covered bridges, and
arcaded streets, is one of the main Annecy’s 12th-century Palais de I’Isle, on the Thiou canal
o Street by Street: Dijon

The center of Dijon is noted for its architectural
splendor – a legacy from the dukes of Burgundy
(see p182). Wealthy parliament members also had
elegant hôtels particuliers (private mansions) built
in the 17th and 18th centuries. The capital of
Burgundy, Dijon today has a rich cultural life
and a renowned university. The city’s great art
treasures are housed in the Palais des Ducs.
Dijon is also famous for its mustard and pain Hôtel de Voguë
d’épice (gingerbread), a reminder of the town’s This elegant 17th-century mansion is
position on the medieval spice route. A major decorated with Burgundian cabbages and
fruit garlands by Hugues Sambin.
railroad hub during the 19th century, it now has a
TGV link to Paris.
. Notre-Dame
This magnificent 13th-century
Gothic church is best known for
its many gargoyles, the
RE
Jacquemart clock,
ECTU
and, on the north
wall, the sculpted
EF
owl (chouette), said
A PR
to bring good luck
O D E B E R T
when touched.
RUE QUENTIN
DE L
RUE
R U E
Train and
bus RUE MUSETTE
stations
RUE DES FORGES
RUE D
E LA L
IBERTE
PL DE LA
RG
IER
OU
LIBERATION
U B
RC
Musée des Beaux Arts

The collection of Flemish masters
ME
E D
here includes this 14th-century

N
triptych by Jacques de Baerze

E J
RU
UB A
and Melchior Broederlam.

RU
VA
Place de la Libération
R
was created by Mansart

in the 17th century.
. Palais des Ducs

The dukes of Burgundy held court here, but the
building seen today was mainly built in the 17th
century for the parliament. It now houses the
Musée des Beaux Arts.
FRANCE  185
Rue Verrerie
This cobbled street in the
old merchants’ quarter is
lined with medieval half-
Côte d’Or. * 153,000.
timbered houses. Some,
n 11 rue des Forges (08-92 70
such as Nos. 8, 10, and 12,
05 58). ( Tue, Fri, Sat. _ Festival
have fine wood carvings.
de Musique (Jun); Fêtes de la
Vigne (Sep in odd-numbered
years). Musée des Beaux Arts: Tel
03-80 74 52 09. Open Wed–Mon.
Closed main public hols. & 7
Musée Magnin: Tel 03-80 67 11
10. Open Tue–Sun. Closed some
public hols. & 7 limited.
Transport
k 5 km (3 miles) SSE. £
@ Cours de la Gare.
. St-Michel
Begun in the 15th century and
RUE PROUD H
completed in the 17th century,

St-Michel’s facade combines
RUE JJ
Flamboyant Gothic with Renaissance

I E
details. On the richly carved porch,

E R
angels and biblical motifs mingle

with mythological themes.
ON
R R
ROUSS EAU
V E
R CHAUDRO NNERIE
RIE
R U E
RUE VANNE
RUE JEANNIN
RUE LA
PL STE CHAPELLE
MONNO
YE
Musée Magnin
PL DU
R VAILLANT A collection of French and foreign
THEATRE 16th–19th-century paintings is
PL ST displayed among period furniture
RUE C
in this 17th-century mansion.

RUE DU VIEUX COLLEG
MICHEL
RUE BUFFON
HABOT CH
The Eglise St-Etienne dates

from the 11th century, but
has been rebuilt many times.
Its characteristic lantern was
D added in 1686.
LAN
GER
OUZ
AR
LEG
RUE
E
NY
0 meters 100
Key
0 yards 100
Suggested route
The Wines of France

Winemaking in France dates back to pre-Roman times,
although it was the Romans who disseminated the
culture of the vine and the practise of wine-making
throughout the country. The range, quality, and
reputation of the fine wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy,
and Champagne in particular have made them role
models the world over. France’s everyday wines can be Château Cos d’Estournel, in the
highly enjoyable too, with plenty of good-value IGP Bordeaux region, produces a rich
(Indication Géographique Protegée) and vins de France and fruity Cabernet Sauvignon. The Calais
now emerging from the southern regions. Many wine grandeur of its exotic design is •
A2
typical of château architecture.
6
producers offer tours and have their own tasting Boulogne
•
rooms, where visitors can try a selection of wines

without feeling pressurized to buy.
8
A2
•
•
Dieppe •
Cherbourg Le Havre Amiens

The Wine Regions of France •
A13 •
Caen ROUEN
Each of the 10 main wine-producing regions •
A1
has its own identity, based on grape varieties,
N1
N12 PARIS
8
4
58
A8
A2
climate, soil, and local culture. Around 40 • Brest
percent of all French wines are included in the RENNES A11
AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) •
Le Mans •
Loir
system, which guarantees their style and N1
65
Orléans • e
geographic origin, though not their quality. 10
•
Tours A
A85
• Loire Angers •
NANTES Bourges •
N1
A71
Bordeaux Wines 49
N1
37
A20
Bordeaux is the world’s largest La Rochelle
fine wine region, and, for its red •
wines, certainly the most familiar Ch Limoges

a
Gi nt
•
9
outside France. The great wine- A8
re A10
r e
Angoulême
on
producing areas lie close to the e

de
Pauillac gn
banks of the Gironde, Garonne, do
•
Margaux
r
•
Do
and Dordogne rivers. Along with St. Emilion

BORDEAUX •
•
these, the river port of Bordeaux •
itself have been crucial to the Pessac A6 Lot

2 Ga
region’s wine trade; some of the r onn
e
0
prettiest châteaux line the river

N1
banks, enabling easy trans- TOULOUSE

Château Château
Bayonne
•
A6
portation. Grape varieties used Pitray Thieuley
•
4
Tarbes A61
include Cabernet Sauvignon, •
Merlot, and Petit Verdot (red); Sémillon

and Sauvignon Blanc (white).
The property or producer Château-bottled,

How to Read a Wine Label rather than a wine
from a grower’s
Even the simplest label will provide a key to cooperative or a
the wine’s flavor and quality. It will bear the merchant
name of the wine and its producer, its vintage
(if there is one), and whether it comes from a
strictly defined area (Appellation d’Origine Capacity of
Protégée) or is a more general IGP or vin de the bottle
France. It may also have a regional grading, as
with the crus classés in Bordeaux. The shape
and color of the bottle is also a guide. Most The vintage, from
good-quality wine is bottled in green glass, the French word The wine’s Appellation
vendange, or harvest d’Origine Protégée
which helps to protect it from light.
FRANCE  187
Burgundy Wines Tours of Major

The tiny vineyards in each of Wineries
Burgundy’s wine-producing regions, Winemakers are usually
from Chablis in the north to happy to welcome tourists
Beaujolais in the south, can produce in summer, but try not to
wines that, at their best, are visit at harvest time (Sep–Oct),
unequalled anywhere else. This is and be sure to make an
unmissable territory for the “serious” appointment in advance.
wine-lover, with its time-honored
Bordeaux
traditions and dazzling grands crus. Château Figeac
Domaine Domaine Grape varieties used include Pinot Saint Emilion. Tel 05-57 24 72 26.
François Michel Noir, Gamay, and César (red); Pinot ∑ chateau-figeac.com
Raveneau Lafarge Blanc and Chardonnay (white).
LILLE Château Haut-Brion
•
2 Pessac. Tel 05-56 00 29 30.

A
∑ haut-brion.com
Château Margaux
Margaux. Tel 05-57 88 83 83.
∑ chateau-margaux.com
• Reims A4
•
• Epernay Metz Château Lafite Rothschild

Pauillac. Tel 05-56 73 18 18.
7
NANCY
N7
•
•
Seine STRASBOURG ∑ lafite.com
Burgundy
A6
• Chablis A31 Mulhouse • Domaine Brocard

Champagne is a region that is Préhy, near Chablis. Tel 03-86 41
Dijon A36
•
synonymous with the finest 49 00. ∑ brocard.fr
sparkling wines. The skill of
Beaune Hameau Duboeuf
Meursault
•
•
the blenders, using reserves
of older wines, creates Romanèche-Thorins.
Lyon
Mâcon consistency and excellence Tel 03-85 35 22 22.

A40 ∑ hameauduvin.com
•
year on year. Champagne
A6
LYON
bubbles are produced by Maison Louis Latour
• Clermont- • fermenting yeast inside the Beaune. Tel 03-80 24 81 00.
Ferrand A48
A43
bottle – traditional methods are ∑ louislatour.com
St. Etienne
•
•
still used all over the region.
GRENOBLE In a process called remuage, Champagne
bottles are gradually rotated in Moët & Chandon
order to loosen the sediment,
N85
Rhône
Epernay. Tel 03-26 51 20 00.

which is ultimately ∑ moet.com
removed from the wine.
Nîmes Piper Heidsieck
•
A9 Reims. Tel 03-26 84 43 00.

•
NICE
•
A8 ∑ piper-heidsieck.com
Montpellier •
MARSEILLE Tattinger
Perpignan Reims. Tel 03-26 85 84 33.
• ∑ tattinger.com
Key
Alsace and Lorraine
Bordeaux
Burgundy Chardonnay vines

Champagne in the grand cru
vineyard of Corton-
Jura and Savoie Charlemagne produce
Languedoc-Roussillon some of the greatest
white Burgundies of all.
The Loire Valley The Chardonnay grape
Provence is now cultivated not
only in Burgundy and
The Rhône Valley Champagne, but all
Southwest France over the world.
Southwest France the caves and their astounding

Palaeolithic paintings in 1940,
The southwest is farming France, a green and peaceful land and the importance of their
where crops from sunflowers to walnuts thrive. Other key discovery was swiftly recognized.
country products include forest timber, Bordeaux wines, Lascaux has been closed to
the public since 1963 because
and wild mushrooms. Major modern industries, including of deterioration due to carbon
aerospace, are focused on the two chief cities, Bordeaux and dioxide caused by breathing. An
Toulouse. Visitors are mainly drawn to the wine chateaux, the exact copy, Lascaux II, has been
ski slopes of the Pyrenees, and the prehistoric caves of the created a few minutes’ walk
Dordogne. The major sights of this favored region include down the hillside, using the
same materials. The replica is
some of France’s most celebrated Romanesque buildings.
beautiful and should not be
spurned: high-antlered elk,
(1793–5). Buildings of architectural bison, and plump horses cover
interest include the massive the walls, moving in herds or
Basilique St-Michel, begun in files, surrounded by arrows and
1350, which took 200 years to geometric symbols thought to
complete, and the 18th-century have had ritual significance.
Grand Théâtre, a magnificent
example of the French Neo-
classical style. The Musée des h Toulouse
Beaux Arts holds an excellent Haute-Garonne. * 390,000. k £
collection of paintings, ranging @ n Donjon du Capitole (08-92 18
from the Renaissance to our time. 01 80). ( Tue–Sun. _ Piano (Sep),
Contemporary dance (end Jan–early
E Musée des Beaux Arts Feb). ∑ toulouse-tourisme.com
20 Cours d’Albret. Tel 05-56 10 20 56.
Open Wed–Mon. Closed public hols. Toulouse, the most important
& town in southwest France, is
the country’s fourth-largest
Environs metropolis, and a major
The tourist office in Bordeaux industrial and university city.
organizes tours to various wine The area is also famous for its
châteaux (see pp186–7). aerospace industry; Concorde,
Monument aux Girondins, Place des Airbus, and the Ariane space
Quinconces, Bordeaux rocket all originated here. Airbus
g Lascaux tours can be booked at www.
f Bordeaux Montignac. Tel 05-53 51 95 03. Open
taxiway.fr. Cité de l’Espace has
Gironde. * 220,000. k £ @ mid-Feb–Mar & Nov–Dec: Tue–Sun;
a planetarium and interactive
n 12 Cours du 30 Juillet (05-56 00 Easter–Oct: daily. Closed Jan–mid- exhibits on space exploration.
66 00). ( daily. _ Fête du Vin Feb, Dec 25. & 8 ∑ semitour.com The church known as Les
(Jun, in even-numbered years). Jacobins was begun in 1229 and
∑ bordeaux-tourisme.com Lascaux is the most famous took more over two centuries to
of the prehistoric sites in the finish. The Gothic masterpiece
Built on a curve of the Garonne Dordogne region. Four young features a soaring, 22-branched
River, Bordeaux has been a boys and their dog came across palm tree vault in the apse. The
major port since pre-Roman
times and a focus and crossroads
of European trade for centuries.
The export of wine has always
been the basis of the city’s pros-
perity, and today the Bordeaux
region produces more than 70
million cases of wine per year.
Along the waterfront, a long
sweep of Classical facades is
broken by the Esplanade des
Quinconces, with its statues and
fountains. At one end, the Monu-
ment aux Girondins (1804–1902)
commemorates the Girondists
sent to the guillotine by
Robespierre during the Terror Palm vaulting in the apse of Les Jacobins, Toulouse
FRANCE  189
A picturesque village set among the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains
bell tower (1294) is much remote terrain and tenacious times. Biarritz, west of Bayonne,
imitated in southwest France. people have given heretics a has two casinos and three good
Toulouse became a center of hiding place and refugees an beaches, with the best surfing
Romanesque art in Europe due escape route. in Europe. A short distance south,
to its position on the route to The Parc National des St-Jean-de-Luz is a sleepy fish-
Santiago de Compostela (see Pyrénées extends 100 km ing village that explodes into life
p292). The largest Romanesque (62 miles) along the French– in summer. A main attraction is
basilica in Europe, the Basilique Spanish frontier. It boasts some the Eglise St-Jean Baptiste, where
de St-Sernin, was built in the of the most splendid alpine Louis XIV married the Infanta
11th–12th centuries to scenery in Europe, and is rich Maria Teresa of Spain in 1660.
accommodate pilgrims. The in flora and fauna. Within the A lively university town with
Musée des Augustins has park are 350 km (217 miles) elegant architecture, Pau is the
sculptures from the period, of footpaths. most interesting large town in
and incorporates cloisters from The region’s oldest the central Pyrenees. It has
a 14th-century Augustinian inhabitants, the Basque people, long been a favorite resort of
priory. Also featured are French, have maintained their own affluent foreigners.
Italian, and Flemish paintings. language and culture. Bayonne, Other places of interest
The 16th-century palace on the Atlantic coast, is the include the many mountain ski
known as the Hôtel d’Assézat capital of French Basque resorts, the shrine at Lourdes,
now houses the Fondation country, and has been an and the pretty hilltop town of
Bemberg, named after local art- important town since Roman St-Bertrand-de-Comminges.
lover Georges Bemberg, with
Renaissance art and 19th- and
20th-century French work.
The Miracle of Lourdes
In 1858, a 14-year-old girl named Bernadette Soubirous experienced
E Musée des Augustins 18 visions of the Virgin at the Grotte Massabielle near the town of
21 Rue de Metz. Tel 05-61 22 21 82. Lourdes. Despite being told to keep away from the cave by her
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, mother – and the local magistrate – she was guided to a spring with
Dec 25. & 8 7 ∑ augustins.org miraculous healing
powers. The church
endorsed the miracles
j Pyrenees in the 1860s, and since
then many people claim
~ Pau. £ @ Bayonne & Pau.
to have been cured
n Place des Basques, Bayonne
by the holy water. A
(08-20 42 64 64); Place Royale, huge city of shrines,
Pau (05-59 27 27 08). churches, and hospices
has since grown up
The mountains dominate life in around the spring, with
the French Pyrenees. A region in a dynamic tourist
many ways closer to Spain than Pilgrims at an open-air mass in Lourdes industry to match.
France, over the centuries its
The South of France at the end of the 1st century AD,

it is still in use today as a venue
The south is France’s most popular holiday region, drawing for concerts, sporting events,
millions of visitors each year to the resorts of the Riviera and and bullfights.
the Côte d’Azur, and to the vivid landscape and historic The Maison Carrée is an
elegant Roman temple, the
villages of Provence. Painters such as Cézanne, van Gogh, pride of Nîmes. Built by
and Picasso have been inspired by the luminous light and Augustus’ son-in-law Marcus
brilliant colors of the region. Agriculture is still a mainstay Agrippa, it is one of the best
of the economy, but the high-tech industries of Nice also preserved in the world, with
make a significant contribution to the region’s prosperity. finely fluted Corinthian columns
and a sculpted frieze.
Set in the Roman wall is the
Porte d’Auguste, a gateway built
for travelers on the Domitian
Way, which passed through the
center of Nîmes. Nearby is the
Castellum, a tower used for
storing water brought in by
aqueduct. The water was
distributed around the town by a
canal system. A display of Roman
statues and mosaics can be seen
at the Musée Archéologique.
Five floors of Nîmes’ contro-
versial arts complex, the Carré
d’Art, which stands opposite the
Château Comtal, in the restored citadel of Carcassonne Maison Carrée, lie underground.
The complex incorporates a
k Carcassonne portcullises, two iron doors, library, a roof-terrace restaurant
Aude. * 46,000. £ @ k n 28 a moat, and a drawbridge. around a huge glass atrium, and
Rue de Verdun (04-68 10 24 30). A fortress within a fortress, the Musée d’Art Contemporain.
( Tue, Thu & Sat. _ Festival de la the Château Comtal has a
Cité (mid-Jun–Jul), Medieval fête (Oct). surrounding moat and five E Musée Archéologique
∑ tourisme-carcassonne.fr defensive towers. 13 bis Boulevard Amiral Courbet.
Within the Romanesque and Tel 04-66 76 74 80. Open Tue–Sun.
The citadel of Carcassonne is a Gothic Basilique St-Nazaire is Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25.
perfectly restored medieval the famous Siege Stone,
town. It crowns a steep bank inscribed with scenes said to Environs
above the Aude River, a fairy-tale depict the siege of 1209. To the northeast of the city lies
vision of turrets and ramparts the Pont du Gard, a 2,000-year-
overlooking the Basse Ville below. old aqueduct. The Romans
The strategic position of the l Nîmes considered this to be the best
citadel between the Atlantic Gard. * 145,000. k £ @ testimony to the greatness
and the Mediterranean led n 6 Rue Auguste (04-66 58 38 00). of their empire, and at 49 m
to its original settlement, ( daily. ∑ ot-nimes.fr (160 ft) it was the highest
consolidated by the Romans bridge they ever built.
in the 2nd century BC. An important crossroads in the
At its zenith in the 12th ancient world, Nîmes is well
century, the town was ruled by known for its bullfights and
the Trencavels, who built the Roman antiquities. The city has
château and cathedral. The had a turbulent history, and
Cathars, a persecuted Christian suffered particularly in the
sect, were given sanctuary here 16th-century Wars of Religion,
in 1209 but, after a two-week when the Romanesque
siege, the town fell to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame et
Crusaders sent to eradicate St-Castor was badly damaged.
them. The attentions of In the 17th and 18th centuries,
architectural historian Viollet- the town prospered from textile
le-Duc led to Carcassonne’s manufacturing, one of the
restoration in the 19th century. most enduring products being
Flanked by sandstone towers, denim, or serge de Nîmes.
the defenses of the Porte All roads in the city lead to the The Pont du Gard, outside Nîmes, a major
Narbonnaise included two amphitheater, Les Arènes. Built feat of Roman engineering
FRANCE  191
z Avignon l’Horloge is the center of

Vaucluse. * 100,000. k £ @
Avignon’s social life. Under the
n 41 Cours Jean Jaurès town hall’s Gothic clock tower
(04-32 74 32 74). ( Tue–Sun. stands a merry-go-round from
_ Le Festival d’Avignon (Jul). 1900. Until the 19th century,
∑ avignon-tourisme.com brightly patterned calicoes
called indiennes were printed
Massive ramparts enclose nearby. These inspired today’s
this fascinating town. The Provençal patterns.
huge Palais des Papes is From early July for three
the dominant feature, but Open-air performance at the annual weeks, the Avignon Festival
Avignon contains other riches. Avignon Festival takes place at the Palais des
To the north of the Palais is the Papes. France’s largest festival,
13th-century Musée du Petit de Notre-Dame-des-Doms, it includes ballet, drama, and
Palais, once the Archbishop with its Romanesque cupola classical concerts. The “Off”
of Avignon’s residence. It has and papal tombs, and the festival has street theater and
received such notorious guests 14th-century Eglise St-Didier. music from folk to jazz.
as Cesare Borgia and Louis XIV. The Musée Lapidaire The Pont St-Bénézet, built
Now a museum, it displays contains statues, mosaics, and from 1171–1185, once had
Romanesque and Gothic carvings from pre-Roman 22 arches, but most were des-
sculpture and paintings of Provence. The Musée Calvet troyed by floods in 1668. One
the Avignon and Italian features a superb array of of the remaining arches bears
schools, with works by exhibits, including Roman finds. the tiny Chapelle St-Nicolas.
Botticelli and Carpaccio. It also gives an overview of
Avignon boasts some fine French art during the past 500 + Palais des Papes
churches, such as the years, with works by Rodin, Place du Palais-des-Papes. Tel 04-32
12th-century Cathédrale Manet, and Dufy. The Place de 74 32 74. Open daily. & 8
Palais des Papes

Pope Clement V moved the papal court to Avignon in
1309. Here it remained until 1377, during which time his
successors transformed the modest episcopal building
into the present magnificent palace.
The Consistory Hall
Bell tower contains frescoes
(1340) by Simone
Martini.
Grand Tinel
This vast banqueting hall was used for
celebrating religious festivals.
The Stag Room, Clement

VI’s study, is covered in
14th-century hunting
frescoes and ceramic tiles.
Pope’s
Chamber
Benedict XII’s cloister

incorporates the guest
and staff wings, and the
Benedictine chapel.
The Great Chapel was
The Great Audience Hall is once covered in green
divided into two naves by five tapestries ornamented
sculpted columns. with red roses.
x Street by Street: Arles The Musée Réattu houses

18th-century and modern art,
Few other towns in Provence combine the region’s many including Picasso sketches,
charms as well as Arles. Its position on the Rhône makes it a paintings by local artist
natural gateway to the Camargue (see p195). Its Roman Jacques Réattu (1760–1833),
sculptures by Russian-born
remains, such as Constantine’s baths and the amphitheater, Ossip Zadkine (1890–1967),
are complemented by the ocher walls and Roman-tiled roofs and photography.
of later buildings. Van Gogh spent time here in 1888–9, but
Arles is no longer the industrial town he painted. Visitors are
now its main business, and entertainment ranges from the
Arles Festival to bullfights. A bastion of Provençal tradition
and culture, its museums are among the best in the region.
For enthusiasts, an inclusive ticket is available giving access to RUE DU GRAND
all museums and monuments. All the tourist sites in Arles are
RUE TRUCHET
within walking distance of the central Place de la République.
R U E
RU E D U Q U A
D E
The Palais
Constantine was RUE DES
L
once a grand imperial RUE DU
, H O T E L
palace. Now only its D R FA N
TON
vast Roman baths
remain, dating from
the 4th century AD. PLACE DU
D E
RUE NICO
V I L L E
FORUM
Arles, seen from the opposite bank of the Rhône
AL
ISTR
FR M
The Museon Arlaten RUE BAIZE RU

was founded in 1904
RUE
by the Provençal poet

Frédéric Mistral with The Hôtel de Ville, RU
his Nobel Prize money. ED
the town hall, has E L
A REP
It is currently closed for an impressive UB
renovations, and due to LIQ PLAZ
vaulted ceiling. UE A
reopen in 2016. REPU DE LA
BLIQU
E
RUE JEAN JAU
NDE
R O TO
LA
RUE MOLIERE RUE DE
RES
U
CEA
EMEN
S CL
ARD GEORGE
BOULEV
. Eglise St-Trophime
This fine Romanesque church has an
ornate 12th-century portal carved with
saints and apostles.
Key Roman Obelisk

Suggested route This ancient obelisk, with
fountains at its base (one of which
is shown here), came from the
Roman circus across the Rhône.
FRANCE  193
. Les Arènes VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The amphitheater
is one of the best- Practical Information
preserved Roman Bouches-du-Rhône. * 52,000.
sites in Provence. The n Boulevard des Lices (04-90 18
top tier provides an 41 20). ( Wed, Sat. _ Fête des
excellent panoramic Gardians (May 1); Fêtes d’Arles
view of Arles. (early Jul); Féria des Prémices
du Riz (early Sep).
∑ arlestourisme.com
RUE DE
Transport
k 25 km (15 miles) NW. £ @
PRIEURE
GRILL
. Théâtre Antique
Once a Roman theater, its stones
E
E
BR R U E
BARBES were later used for other
PTEM buildings. These last
AT R E S E
RUE A
RUE A
remaining columns
are called the
RISTIDE BR
“two widows.”
TA R D I
SUISSES
OU
RO
EU
ND–
ECH
IAND RUE DE LA
POINT DES AREN

BAL
BASTI
RUE
LLE
OLA
PLAZA DE
EINE
RUE DIDEROT L A M AYO R Notre-Dame-de-la-

Major is dedicated
MADEL
ES
to St. George, patron

T
R U E G R A N D CO U V N
saint of the Camargue

E
UE DE LA CALADE gardians (cowboys).

E LA
RE
U
E D
LA
RU
ORTE–DE–
O I T R E
C L
E P
U
RU
D
R U E
Cloisters of
St-Trophime
MO This sculpted capital
N is a fine example of
TE
E the Romanesque
VA
UB beauty of the cloisters.
B O U L E VA A N
R D D E S L I C E S
Amphitheater
The most impressive of the
surviving Roman monuments,
the amphitheater was the largest
of the Roman buildings in Gaul.
Slightly oval, it measures 136 m
(446 ft) by 107 m (351 ft) and
could seat 21,000. The floors
of some of the internal rooms
were decorated with mosaics,
the better to wash down after
bloody affrays. Today, bullfights,
0 meters 100 bull races, and other events are
0 yards 100 held regularly in the arena. Les Arènes, a Roman aphitheater
c Camargue paintings to Aix. Work by

Provençal artists, including
Bouches-du-Rhône. £ @ n 5 Ave
Cézanne, is also shown.
Van Gogh, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
(04-90 97 82 55). _ Pèlerinage des
E Musée Granet
Gitans (end May & end Oct).
∑ saintesmaries.com
13 Rue Cardinale. Tel 04-42 52 88 32.
Open Tue–Sun. & 7
This flat, sparsely populated
land is one of Europe’s major
wetland regions and natural- b Marseille
history sites. Extensive areas of Bouches-du-Rhône. * 1,000,000.
salt marshes, lakes, pastures, k 25 km NW. g £ @ n 11 La
and sand dunes cover a vast Canebière (08-26 50 05 00). ( daily.
140,000 ha (346,000 acres). The ∑ marseille-tourisme.com
native white horses and black One of many fountains in Aix-en-Provence,
bulls are tended by the region’s the “city of a thousand fountains” France’s most important port and
cowboys, or gardians. Numerous oldest major city is centered on
seabirds and wildfowl also v Aix-en-Provence the surprisingly attractive Vieux
occupy the region. Bouches-du-Rhône. * 140,000. £ Port. On the north side are the
Bullfights are advertised in @ n 300 Ave Giuseppe Verdi, Les commercial docks and the old
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the Allées Provençales (04-42 16 11 61). ( town, rebuilt after World War II.
region’s main tourist center, daily. ∑ aixenprovencetourism.com The old town’s finest building
which has a sandy beach with is the Vieille Charité, a large
water sports and boat trips. A Provence’s former capital is an 17th-century hospice that
few kilometers inland, the international students’ town, houses the Musée d’Archéologie
information center at Pont- with a university that dates Méditerranéenne and the
de-Gau offers wonderful back to 1409. The city was Musée d’Arts Africains,
views over the flat transformed in the 17th century, Océaniens, Amérindiens.
lagoon. Photographs when ramparts, first raised by The Neo-Byzantine Notre-
and documents the Romans in their town of Dame-de-la-Garde dominates
chronicle the Aquae Sextiae, were pulled the city, but Marseille’s finest
history of the down, and the mansion-lined piece of religious architecture is
Camargue and its Cours Mirabeau was built. the Abbaye de St-Victor, founded
diverse flora and North of the Cours Mirabeau in the 5th century, with crypts
fauna. Most of the lies the town’s old quarter. containing catacombs, sarcophagi,
birds that live in, or Cathédrale St-Sauveur creaks and the martyr St. Victor’s cave.
migrate within, the with history. The jewel of the During postwar rebuilding, the
region, including church is the triptych of The Roman docks were uncovered.
thousands of Burning Bush (1476) by Nicolas The Musée des Docks Romains
flamingoes which Froment. The modest Atelier mainly displays large storage
come here to Paul Cézanne, a studio designed urns once used for wine, grain,
Camargue breed, can be seen by Cézanne himself, is much as and oil. In the Centre Bourse
gardian at the nearby Parc he left it when he died in 1906. shopping center is the Musée
Ornithologique The main museum is the d’Histoire de Marseille. Recon-
du Pont-de-Gau. Musée Granet. François Granet structions of the city at the height
In the north of the region, a (1775–1849) left his collection of the Greek period make this a
traditional Provençal mas, or of French, Italian, and Flemish good starting point for a tour.
farmhouse, Mas du Pont de
Rousty, has been converted to
accommodate the fascinating
Musée Camarguais. Displays
here provide an introduction to
the customs and traditions of
the Camargue.
O Parc Ornithologique
du Pont-de-Gau
Pont-de-Gau. Tel 04-90 97 82 62.
Open daily. Closed Dec 25. & 7
E Musée Camarguais
Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue,
Mas du Pont de Rousty. Tel 04-90 97
10 82. Open Wed–Mon.
Closed public hols. & 7 Old harbor of Marseille, looking towards the Quai de Rive Neuve
FRANCE  195
Flavors of the South of France

It’s a heady experience just to stand, look, and sniff in a Provençal market. Tables sag
under piles of braided pink garlic, colorful fresh peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini,
and asparagus. In the fall and winter, an earthy scent fills the air, with wild mushrooms,
Swiss chard, walnuts, and quinces crowding the stalls. The waters of coastal Provence
provide a bountiful sea harvest, including plump mussels, oysters, and tellines (tiny
clams). The area is especially famous for its fish dishes, notably bouillabaisse. Lamb is the
most common meat in Provence; the best comes from the Camargue, where lambs graze
on herbs and salt-marsh grass. The South supplies France with the first of the season’s
peaches, cherries, and apricots.
Fish liquor Bouillabaisse, a fish soup originating in Marseille, is a luxury

today. It consists of an assortment of local seafood, including
monkfish, mullet, snapper, scorpion fish, and conger eel,
flavored with tomatoes, saffron, and olive oil. Traditionally,
the fish liquor is served first with croutons
spread with rouille, a spicy mayonnaise.
The fish is eaten afterwards.
Red snapper
Croutons
Rouille (meaning “rust”),

a mayonnaise with chillies
and garlic
Olives and Olive Oil

Most of the olive crop is crushed
Monkfish for oil. Ripe olives are black and
the unripe ones are green; both
can be preserved in brine or oil.
Red mullet At the end of the olive harvest,
Conger eel
tapenade is popular – a paste
of black olives, capers,
anchovies, and olive oil
eaten with bread.
Fougasse is a flattish, lattice-like bread

variously studded with black olives,
anchovies, onions, and spices. The sweet
version is flavored with almonds. Black olives Tapenade Olive oil
Aïoli is a sauce made of egg Ratatouille is a stew of onions, Salade Niçoise comes in many
yolks, garlic, and olive oil. It is eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, versions, but always includes
served with salt cod, boiled and peppers, cooked in olive oil lettuce, green beans, tomatoes,
eggs, snails, or raw vegetables. and garlic. black olives, eggs, and anchovies.
The Côte d’Azur

The Côte d’Azur is, without doubt, the most celebrated seaside
in Europe. Almost everybody who has been anybody for the
past 100 years has succumbed to its glittering allure. Today, the
Côte d’Azur is busy all year round; expect heavy traffic around
Cannes and St-Tropez in summer. Between Cannes and Menton,
the coast forms the glamorous French Riviera, playground of
the rich and famous. The bustling city of Nice lies at the area’s
heart, richly deserving the title “capital of the Côte d’Azur.”
Beaches of the Côte d’Azur

Uma Thurman arriving at the Cannes
The sun-drenched coastline of the Côte d’Azur
is one of the busiest in Europe. To the east lie Menton Film Festival
the Riviera’s big, traditional resorts while Monaco
to the west are smaller towns in
Nice
Cap Ferrat
n Cannes
coves and bays. Beaches are Alpes-Maritimes. * 70,000. g £
sandy west of Antibes, and Cannes Antibes @ n Palais des Festivals, 1 La
more shingly to the east. Croisette (04-92 99 84 22). ( daily.
Juan-les-Pins
The first thing that most people
associate with Cannes is its
St-Raphaël
many festivals, especially the
International Film Festival. held
0 kilometers 20
each May. The first Cannes Film
St-Tropez 0 miles 20 Festival took place in 1946 and,
for a while, it remained a small
and exclusive affair. The mid-
Exploring the Côte d’Azur Greeks, Antibes is one of the 1950s marked the change from
The Côte d’Azur is the most oldest towns along this stretch artistic event to media circus,
popular destination in France for of coast, and home to a large but Cannes remains the
sun-worshipers, with its seaside museum of Picasso’s work, international marketplace for
vacation towns and long, golden donated by the artist himself. moviemakers and distributors.
beaches. St-Tropez is currently Clifftop walks replace seafront The annual festival is held in the
the trendiest resort; Tahini-Plage promenades around the huge Palais des Festivals.
is the coast’s showcase for fun, wooded peninsula of Cap There is, however, more to the
sun, fashion, and glamor. By Ferrat, where grand villas and city than this glittering event.
contrast, the family resort of private beaches can be The Old Town is centered in the
St-Raphaël is peaceful, with glimpsed between the trees. Le Suquet district, which is
excellent tourist facilities. At the eastern edge of the dominated by the church of
East of Cannes, at the western Riviera, past the glitz of the Notre-Dame de l’Espérance,
edge of the Riviera, Juan-les- casinos and hotels of Monaco, built in the 16th and 17th
Pins is a lively resort. Its all-night the beaches of Menton are the centuries in the Provençal
bars, nightclubs, and cafés make warmest along the coast; Gothic style. The famed
it popular with teenagers and sunbathers enjoy a beach Boulevard de la Croisette is
young adults. Founded by the climate all year round. lined with palm trees. Luxury
stores and hotels look out over
fine sandy beaches.
m Nice
Alpes-Maritimes. * 346,000. k g
£ @ n 5 Promenade des Anglais
(08-92 70 74 07). ( Tue–Sun. _
Carnival (Feb). ∑ nicetourisme.com
The largest resort on the

Mediterranean coast, Nice has
the second-busiest airport in
France. Its temperate winter
St-Tropez harborside, on the Côte d’Azur climate and verdant subtropical
FRANCE  197
vegetation have long attracted

visitors, and today it is also a
center for business conferences
and package travelers.
There are many art museums
in Nice, two of which devote
themselves to the works of
particular artists. The Musée
Matisse displays drawings,
paintings, bronzes, fabrics, and
artifacts. The Musée Chagall
holds the largest collection of
works by Marc Chagall, with
paintings, drawings, sculpture,
stained glass, and mosaics.
A strikingly original complex of
four marble-faced towers linked
by glass passageways houses the
Musée d’Art Contemporain. The
collection is particularly strong in
Neorealism and Pop Art. The
Musée des Beaux Arts displays
works by Dufy, Monet, Renoir,
and Sisley.
A 19th-century palace, the
Palais Masséna is filled with
paintings of the Nice school,
works by the Impressionists,
Provençal ceramics, folk art, Skyscrapers and apartment blocks of modern Monte Carlo in Monaco
and a gold cloak once worn by
Napoleon’s beloved Josephine. , Monaco by 1870, he was able to abolish
The onion domes of the taxation for his people.
Monaco. * 34,000. k (Nice). £
Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe n 2a Boulevard des Moulins (092-16 Designed in 1878 and set in
St-Nicolas, completed in 1912, 61 16). ( daily. _ International formal gardens, the casino gives
make this building Nice’s most Circus Festival (Jan–Feb). a splendid view over Monaco.
distinctive landmark. ∑ visitmonaco.com Even the most exclusive of the
gaming rooms can be visited.
E Musée Matisse Arriving among the towering Across the harbor lies Monaco-
164 Ave des Arènes de Cimiez. skyscrapers of Monaco today, Ville, the seat of government. The
Tel 04-93 81 08 08. Open Wed–Mon. it is hard to envisage the interior of the 13th-century
Closed some public hols. 7 turbulence of its history. At first Palais Princier, with its priceless
E Musée Chagall a Greek settlement, later taken furniture and magnificent
36 Ave du Docteur Ménard. Tel 04-93 by the Romans, it was bought frescoes, is open to the public
53 87 20. Open Wed–Mon. from the Genoese in 1297 by from April to September.
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & 7 the Grimaldis who, in spite of The aquarium of the Musée
bitter family feuds, still rule as Océanographique holds rare
the world’s oldest monarchy. species of marine plants and
Monaco covers 1.9 sq km animals. Marine explorer
(0.74 sq miles) and, although Jacques Cousteau established
its size has increased by one- his research center here.
third in the form of landfills, it
still occupies an area smaller
than New York’s Central Park.
The best-known section of
Monaco is Monte Carlo. People
flock to the annual car rally held
here in January, but the area
owes its renown mainly to its
Grand Casino. Source of
countless legends, it was
instituted by Charles III to save
himself from bankruptcy in
A quiet stretch along Nice’s 5 km (3 miles) 1856. So successful was this The lavish surroundings of the belle époque
of beachfront money-making venture that, Grand Casino, Monaco
Practical Information Opening Hours

Generally, opening hours
France is justifiably proud of its many attractions, for which for tourist sights are from
it has good tourist information facilities. Both in France and 10am–5:40pm, with one late
abroad, French Government Tourist Offices are an invaluable evening per week. Most close
on public holidays.
source of reference for practical aspects of your stay,
National museums and
especially for those with special needs. If you are unfortunate sights are normally closed on
enough to need medical or emergency assistance, France Tuesdays, with a few exceptions
has excellent hospitals, ambulance, fire, and police services. which close on Mondays.
The country also has a modern communications network, Municipal museums normally
making it easy to keep in touch by telephone, post, or email. close on Mondays. Churches are
open every day, but sometimes
shut at lunchtime.
Visa Requirements town headings in this guide) or
and Customs the appropriate CRT (Comité Facilities for the Disabled
Currently, there are no visa Régional de Tourisme) – ask the Facilities for the disabled vary in
requirements for EU nationals FGTO for the address. France. Details of services in
or visitors from the United most towns can be obtained
States, Canada, Australia, or from the GIHP (Groupement
New Zealand who plan to Personal Security pour l’Insertion des Personnes
stay in France for under three Violent crime is rare in France – Handicapées Physiques). The
months. Visitors from most even a major city such as Paris Association des Paralysés de
other countries require a tourist is surprisingly safe. However, France provides information
visa. Non-EU visitors can, with muggings and brawls do occur, on wheelchair access.
some exceptions, reclaim the so avoid isolated or poorly lit
French sales tax (TVA) on places, especially at night.
goods if they spend more than Women should take extra care, Medical Treatment
a certain amount in one shop especially when traveling alone. All EU nationals are entitled to
and get a détaxe receipt. Also beware of pickpockets, French social-security coverage.
who are active in large cities. However, treatment must be
paid for at the time, and
Tourist Information hospital rates vary widely.
All major cities and large towns Police Reimbursements may be
have offices de tourisme. Small There are two types of police obtained if you have the correct
towns and even villages have in France. The Police Nationale documents before you travel,
syndicats d’initiative. Both will look after large towns and but the process is long and
give you town plans, advice cities. If you need to contact complicated.
on accommodations, and them, find the Commissariat All travelers, particularly non-EU
information on regional de Police (police headquarters). nationals, should, therefore,
recreational and cultural activities. Small towns, villages, and consider purchasing travel
You can also get information country areas are policed by insurance before they arrive.
before you leave for France from the Gendarmerie Nationale. In the case of a medical
French Government Tourist If you need to report a crime emergenc,y call SAMU (Service
Offices, or by contacting local in these places, go to the d’Aide Médicale Urgence).
tourist offices (see individual nearest local gendarmerie. However, it is often faster to
The Climate of France

PARIS NICE
Set on Europe’s western edge,
France has a varied, temperate
°C/ºF °C/ºF
climate. An Atlantic influence
27/80
prevails in the northwest, with 24/75
19/67 21/70
westerly sea winds bringing 14/58 15/59 16/61 13/55 5/41
humidity and warm winters. 7/44 9/49
7/44
17/63
13/55
The east experiences 2/35
10/50
Continental temperature 6 8 4.5 2 7.5 11 6.5 5
extremes with frosty, clear hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
winters and often stormy 50 58 55 55 62 16 108 83
summers. The south enjoys a mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
Mediterranean climate, with hot,
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
dry summers and mild winters.
FRANCE  199
call Sapeurs Pompiers (the fire You will be asked to tap in your making long-distance calls
department), which offers a first- PIN code (code confidentiel) on a from hotels.
aid and ambulance service. This small keypad. La Poste (the Post Office)
is particularly true in rural areas. You can also use credit cards used to be called the P.T.T.
Casualty departments (service in most banks to withdraw cash; (postes, télégraphes, téléphones),
des urgences) in public hospitals either from an ATM (automatic and some road signs still give
can deal with most medical teller machine), which should directions to the P.T.T. The
problems. Your consulate have an English-language postal service in France is
should be able to provide you option, or from a cash desk. Most fast and reliable. However, it
with details of an English- banks will cash traveler’s checks. is not cheap, especially when
speaking doctor in the area. Opening hours are usually Mon– sending a parcel abroad.
Pharmacists can also suggest Fri, 9am–4:30 or 5:15pm, with At La Poste, postage stamps
treatments for many health some banks also open on (timbres) are sold singly or in
problems. Look for the green- Saturday morning. Many close carnets of seven or ten. They
cross sign outside pharmacies. for lunch, and many, especially in are also sold at tabacs, although
the south, are closed on Monday. you need to go to the post office
You can also exchange money for international stamps. At
Banking and Currency at bureaux de change offices, post offices, you can also use
The French unit of currency which operate longer hours telephone directories (annuaires),
is the euro (see p23). than banks. Exchange rates and buy phonecards, cash or buy
Most credit cards are widely commission charges can vary. money orders (mandats), and
accepted in France, but, make international calls.
because of the high com- Post offices usually open from
missions charged, American Communications 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, often with
Express is often not. The most Payphones in France are being a break for lunch, and 9am–
commonly used credit card is phased out, and they will likely noon on Saturdays. Mail boxes
Carte Bleue/Visa. Eurocard/ be removed completely within are yellow, and often have
MasterCard (Access in UK) is also the next few years. Those that separate slots for the town you
often accepted. Credit cards still remain take mainly plastic are in, the département, and
issued in France contain a telephone cards (télécartes)– other destinations (autres
microchip and are called “smart available from tobacconists destinations).
cards,” but some machines can (tabacs) and newsagents – Although the Internet is widely
also read cards with magnetic and credit cards. For local calls, used in France, Internet cafés
strips. If you find your a unit lasts up to six minutes. have not proved to be successful.
conventional card cannot be Some post offices have tele- However, there are usually a few
read in the smart-card slot, get phone booths (cabines) where in the major cities and resorts.
the cashier to swipe the card you can call first and pay after- In Paris, there are free Wi-Fi
through the magnetic reader. wards. This is cheaper than spots in many metro stations.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Tourist UK Emergency
Information Lincoln House, Numbers
Australia 300 High Holborn,
4 Rue Jean Rey, 75015 Paris Convention & London WC1V 7JH. Ambulance (SAMU)
Paris. Tel 01-40 59 33 00. Tel 020-7061 6600. Tel 15 or 18 (Sapeurs
Visitors Bureau
∑ france.embassy. US Pompiers).
gov.au Headquarters
825 Third Ave,
25–27 Rue des Pyramides, Fire (Sapeurs
Canada New York, NY 10022.
75001 Paris. Tel 212-838 7800. Pompiers)
35 Ave Montaigne, 75008
Tel 01495-24263. Tel 18 or 112.
Paris. Tel 01-44 43 29 00.
∑ canadainter ∑ en.parisinfo.com Facilities for the Police and
national.gc.ca/france Australia
Disabled Gendarmerie
UK French Tourist Bureau, Association des Tel 17.
Consulate: 18 bis Rue Level 22, 25 Bligh Street, Paralysés de France
d’Anjou, 75008 Paris. 17 Bld August Blanqui, Banking
Sydney, NSW 2000.
Tel 01-44 51 31 00. ∑ 75013 Paris.
amb-grandebretagne.fr
Tel 612-9321 5244.
Tel 01-45 89 40 57.
American Express
Canada ∑ apf.asso.fr 11 Rue Scribe,
US 75009 Paris.
1800 Ave McGill College,
2 Ave Gabriel, 75008 Paris. GIHP Tel 01-47 77 70 00.
Tel 01-43 12 22 22. Suite 1010, Montréal, 61 fbg Poissonnière,
∑ france.usembassy. Québec H3A 3J6. 75009 Paris. Travelex
gov Tel 288-2026. Tel 01-43 95 66 36. Tel 0800 908 330.
Travel Information passenger service, Eurostar, links

London and Paris (2.5 hrs).
France has highly advanced transportation systems, with Paris
at the hub of its air, railroad, and road networks. Paris’s two Getting Around Paris
main airports have direct flights to North America, Africa, Japan,
Central Paris is compact, and the
and the rest of Europe. The city’s six major railroad stations best way to get around is often
connect it to some 6,000 destinations in France, and provide to walk. Public transportation in
links to the whole of Europe. An extensive, well-developed the city is good, however, with an
road network makes it easy to reach all parts of the country efficient metro (subway) system,
by car or bus. France is also well connected by sea, with frequent buses, and a commu
frequent ferry crossings from the UK to ports on the Channel. ter train service (RER). These are
all operated by the Paris
transportation company, RATP.
There are many types of ticket
Flying to France Domestic Flights available, sold at metro and RER
France is served by nearly all There are a number of domestic stations, and most can be used
international airlines. Paris is the airlines that fly between the cities on any RATP service, including
major airline destination in of France, some of which only buses. Single bus tickets can
France, but there are a number of operate within one region; others also be bought from the driver
other international airports across also fly to Frenchspeaking coun when boarding. All tickets used
the country. Some airports near tries, with Air France offering the on buses must be stamped in
the border, such as Geneva, Basle, largest number of routes. Hop is a the machine on board.
and Luxembourg, can also be French airline offering lowcost Single RATP tickets are valid in
used for destinations in France. internal flights. However, unless metro/RER zones 1 or 2, or for
The main French airline is Air you are eligible for discounts, you any bus journey. Carnets (books
France, which has services to may find it cheaper and faster to of ten single tickets), are more
major cities across the world. The travel on highspeed trains, economical if you plan to make
main British airline with regular given the time it can take to a number of journeys. Various
flights to France is British reach the airports. passes are also available, which
Airways. Inexpensive flights entitle you to unlimited travel
from the UK to various French in certain zones for a set
destinations are available from Ferry Services number of days.
carriers such as easyJet, Flybe, There are several crossings Vélib is a selfservice bike
and Ryanair. Major airlines between the UK and French hire scheme in Paris. Users can
including American Airlines, ports. P&O Ferries operates hire a bike from one station and
Delta, and United operate between Dover and Calais, with return it to another.
flights from the United States. frequent crossings (75–90 mins).
Air Canada flies from several Brittany Ferries runs a 9hour
cities in Canada, and Qantas service from Portsmouth to Rail Travel
provides flights from Australia StMalo, a 6hour service from France has always been known
and New Zealand. Portsmouth to Caen, a 3hour for the punctuality of its trains.
service from Poole or The French state railroad, the
Portsmouth to Cherbourg, a Société Nationale des Chemins
Air Fares 6hour service from Plymouth to de Fer (SNCF), provides an
Airline fares are at their highest Roscoff, and a 4hour crossing excellent railroad network
during the peak summer season from Portsmouth to Le Havre. which covers nearly all of
in France, usually from July to LD Lines runs an 8hour France. The fastest services are
September. Fierce competition overnight service from Ports provided by the highspeed TGV
between airlines, however, means mouth to Le Havre. Transmanche (Trains à Grande Vitesse) trains,
there are often discounts on offer. Ferries’ route between which link most major cities.
APEX fares are booked in Newhaven and Dieppe takes Overnight services are popular
advance. They cannot be about 3 hours. Norfolkline has in France, and most longdistance
changed or canceled without a 2hour crossing from Dover trains have couchettes (bunks),
penalty and there are also to Dunkerque. which you must reserve for a fee.
minimum and maximum stay Reservations are also compulsory
requirements. Packages are also for all TGV services, trains on
worth considering, as airlines Channel Tunnel public holidays, and for a siège
and tour operators can put The Channel Tunnel (Tunnel sous inclinable (reclinable seat).
together a great range of La Manche) was inaugurated in Information on the various train
flexible deals to suit your needs. 1994. A carcarrying shuttle services and fares is available
These can include car rental and service, which is operated by from the Voyages-SNCF office
train travel, enabling you to Eurotunnel, runs between in London. In France, leaflets are
continue overland. Folkestone and Calais. The available at most stations. There
FRANCE  201
are a number of special tickets à péage), which can be quite All the main international
available, including ones for over expensive, especially over long car-rental companies operate
60s, families, and under 26s. distances. There are some short in France. It is worth ringing
There are also special tickets for sections which are free, around before you leave for
those doing a lot of train travel. however, usually close to major France as there are many special
Automatic ticket and centers. Tolls can be paid with offers for rentals booked and
reservation machines (billetterie either credit cards or cash. prepaid in the UK or US. Good
automatique) are found at main Where only small sums are deals are often available from
stations. They take credit cards involved, you throw coins into a Autos Abroad, brokers who use
or coins. You can also check large receptacle and the change cars owned by other car-rental
train times, fares, and make is given automatically. companies. Booking in this way
reservations by phoning SNCF. Speed limits in France are can be very cost effective.
Both reservations and tickets shown in km/h. The limit in all
must be validated in one of the towns, unless shown otherwise,
orange composteur machines is 50 km/h (30 mph). On major Buses
near the platforms before roads, higher limits are usually Long-distance buses generally
boarding the train. shown. On the autoroutes, the operate only where there is not
usual limit is 130 km/h (80 mph), a good train service in operation
but this is reduced to 110 km/h (for example, between Geneva
Traveling by Road (70 mph) when it is raining. and Nice). SNCF (the state railway)
France has one of the densest On-the-spot fines may be operates some bus routes and
road networks in Europe, with demanded for speeding issues regional TER (Transports
modern motorways which allow offences, and there are severe Express Régionaux) timetables
quick and easy access to all penalties for drink-driving. and tickets. Eurolines serves a
parts of the country. However, Sunday is usually a good time wider range of destinations
you can save money on tolls to travel in France, as there within France, as well as
and explore France in a more are very few trucks on the road. providing services to hundreds
leisurely way by using some of Try to avoid traveling at the of major cities across Europe.
the other high-quality roads, French holiday-rush periods, They also offer excursions and
such as RN (route nationale) and known as the grands départs. arrange accommodations.
D (départementale) routes. The worst times are weekends There are also many local
Most motorways in France in July, and at the beginning and buses, which run from the
have a toll system (autoroutes end of August. town’s Gare Routière.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Flybe Norfolkline Voyages-SNCF
Tel 0871-700 2000 (UK). Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK). 193 Piccadilly,
Air Canada London W1J 9EU.
∑ flybe.com ∑ norfolkline.com
Tel 08-26 88 08 81. Tel 0844-848 5848.
Tel 888-247 2262 (Can). Hop P&O Ferries
∑ aircanada.com Tel 08-25 30 22 22. Tel 08716-64 21 21 (UK). Car Rental
∑ hop.fr ∑ poferries.com
Air France Autos Abroad
Tel 3654. Qantas Transmanche Ferries Tel 0844-826 6536 (UK).
Tel 0871-663 3777 (UK). Tel 0845-774 7767 (UK). Tel 0825 304 304. ∑ autosabroad.com
Tel 800-237 2747 (US). Tel 13 13 13 (Aus). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
∑ airfrance.com ∑ qantas.com.au ∑ transmache.co.uk Avis
Tel 08-21 23 07 60.
American Airlines Ryanair Tel 0844-581 0147 (UK).
Tel 08-26 46 09 50. Tel 08-92-56-21-50. Channel Tunnel
∑ avis.fr
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ ryanair.com Eurostar
∑ aa.com
Europcar
United Airlines Tel 01-70 70 60 88.
Tel 08-25 35 83 58.
British Airways Tel 0845-8444 777 (UK). Tel 08432-186 186 (UK). Tel 0871-384 1087 (UK).
Tel 08-25 82 54 00. Tel 800-864 8331 (US). ∑ eurostar.com ∑ europcar.com
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). ∑ united.com
Eurotunnel Hertz
∑ britishairways.com Tel 810-630 304.
Ferry Services Tel 0825-86 18 61.
Delta Air Lines Tel 0870-535 3535 (UK). Tel 0843-309 3099 (UK).
Tel 08-92-70-26-09. Brittany Ferries ∑ eurotunnel.com ∑ hertz.com
Tel 800-221 12 12 (US). Tel 08-25 82 88 28.
∑ delta.com Tel 0871-244 0744 (UK). Rail Travel Buses
∑ brittanyferries.com
easyJet SNCF, Paris Eurolines
Tel 0843-116 0021 (UK). LD Lines Tel 3635. Tel 08-92 89 90 91.
∑ easyjet.com Tel 0844-576 8836 (UK). ∑ voyages-sncf.com ∑ eurolines.fr
Shopping items, and there are often foires

artisanales held at the same
Shopping in France is a delight. Whether you go to the time, which sell local produce,
hypermarkets and department stores, or seek out the many arts, and crafts.
small specialist stores and markets, you will be tempted by the
stylish presentation and high quality of the goods on offer. Regional Produce
France is especially renowned for its wine, with a vast selection French regional specialties can be
available, from cheap table wines to classic vintages. French bought outside their area of
food is also excellent, in particular the cheeses, cured meats, origin, although it is interesting
patés, cakes, and pastries. France also offers world-famous to buy them locally. Provence, in
fashion, pottery, porcelain, crystal, and fine-quality antiques. the south, prides itself on the
quality of its olive oil, while the
southwest is notable for its patés.
Central France is famous for
Opening Hours Specialist Shops snails, cured meats, and Epoisses
Food stores open at about 7am One of the pleasures of shopping cheese. Cheese is also an impor-
and close around noon for lunch. in France is that specialist stores tant product of the temperate
After lunch most are open until for food still flourish despite the north, the best-known varieties
7pm or later. Bakeries often stay new large supermarkets. The being Brie and Camembert.
open until 1pm or later. boulangerie, for bread, is Popular drinks are also
Shops that do not close at frequently combined with a associated with particular
lunchtime include some pâtisserie selling cakes and regions. Pastis, made from
supermarkets, department pastries. The traiteur sells aniseed, is popular in the south,
stores, and most hypermarkets. prepared foods. Cheese shops while Calvados, made from
General opening hours for (fromagerie) and other shops apples, is from the north.
non-food stores are around specializing in dairy products Location also determines
9am–7pm Mon–Sat, often with (laiterie) may also be combined, quality. Lyon’s culinary imp-
a break for lunch. Many are while the boucherie (butcher’s) ortance stems from the many
closed on Mondays. and charcuterie (pork butcher’s/ locally produced cheeses, the
Food stores (and newsagents) delicatessen) are often separate proximity of Bresse for chickens,
are open on Sunday mornings. stores. For general groceries, go Charolais for beef, and the
Virtually every shop in France is to an épicerie. An épicerie fine is Alsace region for sausages.
closed on Sunday afternoon, a delicatessen.
except for the last weeks before
Christmas, when hypermarkets Wine
remain open all day. Smaller Markets In wine-producing areas, follow
stores may be closed one day Markets are found in towns the dégustation (tasting) signs
of the week, usually Monday. and villages all over France. to vineyards (domaines), where
However, those in tourist To find out where the market you can taste the wine. You will
regions are often open every is, ask a passerby for le marché. be expected to buy at least one
day in the high season. Markets usually finish promptly bottle. Wine cooperatives sell the
at noon and do not reopen in wine of small producers. Here,
the afternoon. you can buy wine in five- and ten-
Larger Shops Look for local producers, liter containers (en vrac), as well
Hypermarkets (hypermarchés including those with only one as in bottles. The wine is often
or grandes surfaces) can be or two special items to sell, as rated AOP, appellation d’origine
found on the outskirts of every their goods are often cheaper protégée, selling at less than 2
sizeable town: look for signs and of better quality. euros a liter. As wine sold en vrac
indicating centre commercial. By law, price tags include the is “duty-free,” customers receive
Among the biggest are origin of all produce: pays means a laissez-passer (permit) indicating
Carrefour, Casino, Auchan, and local. Chickens from Bresse are their destination. Bottled wine
Continent. Discount petrol is marketed wearing a red, white, sold by co-ops is duty-paid.
often sold, and most, but not and blue badge, giving the
all, now have pumps which name of the producer as proof of
take credit cards. authenticity. If you are visiting Clothing
Department stores (grands markets over several weeks, France is famous for its fashion,
magasins), such as the cheap- look for items just coming into and elegant clothes can be
and-cheerful Monoprix, are season, such as fresh walnuts, found even in quite small towns.
often found in town centers. the first wild asparagus, truffles, Paris, however, is the home of
Others, like the more upscale early artichokes, or wild straw- haute couture. There are more
Printemps and Galeries berries. The special seasonal than 100 fashion houses and
Lafayette, can be found both in markets held throughout France designers listed with the
town and out-of-town centers. are the best places to find these Fédération Française de la
FRANCE  203
Couture, and most of these are and prices will be more within Saturday to Monday). To avoid
concentrated on the Right Bank most people’s budgets. paying duty, you will need a
around Rue du Faubourg-St- Printemps, for example, is huge, certificate of authenticity when
Honoré and Avenue Montaigne. with separate buildings for exporting objets d’art over 20
Famous names include Yves menswear, household goods, years old and any goods over a
Saint Laurent, Chanel, Guy and womens’ and children’s century old that are worth more
Laroche, Gucci, Nina Ricci, and clothes. The beauty department, than €150,000. Seek professional
Christian Dior. Other top with its vast perfume selection, is advice and declare them at
designers include Hermès and definitely worth a visit. Le Bon customs if in doubt.
Giorgio Armani. Marché, on the Left Bank, was
Men don’t have the luxury the first department store in
of haute couture dressing: their Paris, and is the most chic, with Tax-Free Shopping
choice is limited to ready-to- an excellent food hall. Galeries Visitors resident outside the
wear, but most of the big-name Lafayette has a wide range of European Union can reclaim the
womenswear designers also clothes at all price levels. There sales tax, TVA, on French goods
produce a range for men. A are also homewares, and the if they spend more than €305 in
good example is Gianni Versace, branch in Boulevard Haussmann one shop, get a détaxe receipt,
with his classic Italian clothes for has Paris’s biggest souvenir shop. and take the goods out of the
men. On the Right Bank, the country within six months. The
household-name designers form should be handed in at
include Giorgio Armani, the Art and Antiques customs when leaving the
stylish Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint You can buy fabulous art and country, and the reimbursement
Laurent, and Lanvin, who is antiques from stores, galleries, will be sent to you.
particularly popular for his and flea-markets all over France. Exceptions for détaxe rebates
beautifully made leather The best places to visit in Paris are food and drink, medicines,
accessories. If time is short and are Le Louvre des Antiquaires, tobacco, cars, and motorbikes.
you want to make all your a huge building containing More information is available
purchases under one roof, try the around 250 antique dealers, and from the Centre des Renseign-
grands magasins. These stores the famous Marché aux Puces ements des Douanes, but this is
offer a wide choice of fashions, de St-Ouen flea market (open usually in French.
DIRECTORY
Clothing Guy Laroche 32 Rue Faubourg Printemps
35 Rue François 1er, St. Honoré, 64 Bld Haussman,
Chanel 75009 Paris.
75008 Paris. 75008 Paris
42 Ave Montaigne, Tel 01-42 82 50 00.
Tel 01-40 69 68 00. (men’s fashion).
75008 Paris.
Tel 01-47 23 74 12. Hermès Tel 01-53 05 80 80. Art and Antiques
5 Bld de la Croisette, 24 Rue du Faubourg 65 Bld Croisette,
06400 Cannes. St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. 06400 Cannes.
Le Louvre des
Tel 04-93 38 55 05. Tel 01-40 17 47 17. Antiquaires
Tel 04-93 46 99 17.
2 Place du Palais-Royal,
Christian Dior Lanvin 75001 Paris.
30 Ave Montaigne, 22 Rue de Faubourg
Department Tel 01-42 97 27 27.
75008 Paris. St-Honoré, Stores
Tel 01-40 73 73 73. Marché aux Puces
75008 Paris.
38 Bld de la Croisette, Le Bon Marché de St-Ouen
Tel 01-44 71 33 33.
06400 Cannes. 24 Rue de Sèvres, Av Porte de Clignancourt,
Tel 04-92 98 98 00. Nina Ricci 75007 Paris. 75018 Paris.
39 Ave Montaigne, Tel 01-40 11 77 63.
Gianni Versace Tel 01-44 39 80 00.
75008 Paris.
45 Ave Montaigne, Tax-free
Tel 01-83 97 72 12. Galeries Lafayette
75008 Paris. Shopping
Tel 01-47 42 88 02. 40 Bld Haussmann,
Pierre Cardin
9 Rue Duras, 75009 Paris. Centre des
Giorgio Armani
75008 Paris. Tel 01-42 82 34 56. Renseignements
2 Ave Montaigne,
Tel 01-42 66 14 92. 11 Rue Ste Catherine, des Douanes
75008 Paris.
Direction Générale,
Tel 01-56 89 01 19. 33000 Bordeaux.
Yves Saint Laurent 11 Rue des Deux
6 Place St. Sulpice, Tel 05-56 90 92 71.
Gucci Communes,
60 Ave Montaigne, 75006 Paris 6 Rue Maréchal Foch, 93558 Montreuil.
75008 Paris. (women’s fashion). 06400 Cannes. Tel 08-11 20 44 44.
Tel 01-56 69 80 80. Tel 01-43 29 43 00. Tel 04-97 06 25 00. ∑ douane-gouv.fr
Entertainment go to Le Petit Journal St-Michel.

Jazz is also popular across
The entertainment center of France is Paris. Whether your France, and big international jazz
preference is for drama, ballet, opera, jazz, cinema, or dancing festivals are held right through
the night away, Paris has it all. Across the rest of the country the year, in Cannes (February; see
p196), Antibes and Juan-le-Pins
the arts are also well represented, and there are a number of (July), and Le Mans (April). Opera
internationally renowned arts festivals throughout the year. and classical music are also
With a varied physical, as well as cultural, landscape, there are widely performed, notably at the
also many possibilities for outdoor sports and activities, Aix festival during July (see p194).
including golf, tennis, walking, and skiing. Specialist holidays
cater to those interested in the language, food, and wine. Clubs and Cabaret
Music in Paris nightclubs tends
to follow the trends set in the
Entertainment Listings more than 100 years, the Palais US and Britain, although home-
Two of the best listings Royal has been the temple of grown groups, especially those
magazines in Paris are Pariscope risqué farce. playing garage, are popular and
and L’Officiel des Spectacles. Excellent theaters and influential both here and abroad.
Published every Wednesday, productions are also to be found Balajo, once frequented by
you can pick them up at any in major cities across France, and Edith Piaf, and the ultra-hip Le
newsstand. Local newspapers there are big theater festivals Social Club are particularly up-
and offices de tourisme are the held in Nancy (April) and to-the-minute with their music.
best places to find entertainment Avignon (July; see p191). For a more Latin touch, try La
listings for the regions. Java. The dance floor of this club,
where Edith Piaf once performed,
Music now sways to the sounds of
Booking Tickets The music scene in Paris has Cuban and Brazilian music.
Depending on the event, tickets never been so busy, especially When it comes to picking a
can often be bought at the with the emergence of many cabaret, the rule of thumb is
door, but for popular events internationally successful simple: the better-known places
it is wiser to purchase them in contemporary French groups. are best. The Folies-Bergère is
advance, at the box office or There are numerous first-class the oldest music hall in Paris and
at FNAC chains. Theater box venues in the city, with excellent probably the most famous in the
offices are usually open 11am– jazz, opera, contemporary, and world. It is closely rivaled by the
7pm daily. Most accept credit- classical-music concerts. Lido and the Moulin Rouge,
card bookings by telephone. Opened in 1989, the ultra- birthplace of the cancan.
You can also buy tickets online modern 2,700-seat Opéra de
(via www.ticketnet.fr), from Paris Bastille stages classic and
Kiosque Théâtre, and from modern operas. Productions Cinema
other commercial centers in from outside France are staged Paris is the world’s capital of film
large towns. at the Opéra Comique. appreciation. There are now more
The Salle Pleyel is Paris’s than 300 screens within the city
principal concert hall and home limits, distributed among 100
Theater of the Orchestre de Paris. Paris’s movie theaters. Most are
From the grandeur of the newest venue is the Cité de la concentrated in clusters, which
Comédie Française to slapstick Musique in the Parc de la Villette. enjoy the added appeal of
farce and avant-garde drama, Top international and pop nearby restaurants and shops.
theater is flourishing in Paris. acts are usually to be found The Champs-Elysées has the
Founded in 1680 by royal decree, at huge arenas, such as the densest cinema strip in town,
the Comédie Française is the Palais Omnisports de Paris- where you can see the latest
bastion of French theater, aiming Bercy or the Zénith. A more Hollywood smash or French
to keep classical drama in the intimate atmosphere is found auteur triumph, as well as some
public eye. In an underground at the legendary Olympia. classic re-issues.
auditorium in the Art Deco Paris is, perhaps, most The movie theaters on the
Palais de Chaillot, the Théâtre renowned for its jazz, and the Grands Boulevards include two
National de Chaillot stages lively best talent in the world can be notable architectural landmarks:
productions of mainstream heard here on any evening, the 2,800-seat Le Grand Rex,
European classics. The Théâtre especially throughout October with its Baroque decor, and the
National de la Colline specializes during the jazz festival. All the Max Linder Panorama, which
in contemporary drama. Among great jazz musicians have was refurbished in the 1980s.
the most important of the performed at New Morning, The largest screen in France is
independents is the Comédie which also hosts African, Brazilian, the La Géode flagship in the
des Champs-Elysées, while for and other sounds. For Dixieland, 19th arrondissement. On the Left
FRANCE  205
Bank, the area around Odéon- and shorter Petites Randonneés from a selection of brochures.
St-Germain-des-Prés has taken cover France. The routes are Vacations are based on subjects
over from the Latin Quarter as clearly way marked, and vary in such as the French language,
the city’s heartland for art and difficulty, including long pilgrim wine appreciation, and cooking,
repertory movie theaters. routes, alpine crossings, and as well as craft activities and
tracks through national parks. organized nature trips.
Some routes are open to
Outdoor Activities mountain bikes and horses.
A country as richly diverse in The mountains offer excellent Spectator Sport
culture and geography as skiing and mountaineering. The The main sporting action in
France offers an amazing variety Atlantic coast around Biarritz France revolves largely around
of sport and leisure activities. offers some of the best surfing football, rugby, tennis, and horse
Information on current activities and windsurfing in Europe. racing. There are various stadia
in a particular region is available Sailing and waterskiing are and circuits all over the country;
from the tourist offices listed popular across France, and the best are near major cities,
for each town in this guide. swimming facilities are particularly Paris. Here, the Stade
Golf is popular in France, generally good, although de France and the Palais Omni-
especially along the north and beaches in the south can be sports de Paris-Bercy host all
south coasts and in Aquitaine. crowded in August. the major events. Parc des
You will need to take your Princes is home to the top Paris
handicap certificate with you if soccer team, Paris St-Germain.
you want to play. Tennis is also a Specialist Vacations Cycling is also a very popular
favorite sport, and there are French government Tourist sport in France, and there is
courts to rent in almost every Offices (see p199) have extensive racing action across the country.
town. More than 30,000 km information on travel companies The most famous event is the
(19,000 miles) of Grandes offering special-interest annual Tour de France, held
Randonneés (long-distance tracks) vacations. Send off or download during July.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Théâtre National Le Petit Journal Le Social Club
de la Colline St-Michel 142 Rue Montmartre,
FNAC 15 Rue Malte-Brun, 75020 71 Bld St-Michel, 75005 75002 Paris.
Forum Les Halles, Paris. Tel 01-44 62 52 52. Paris. Tel 01-43 26 28 59. Tel 01-40 28 05 55.
1 Rue Pierre Lescot,
Salle Pleyel Cinema
75001 Paris. Music
252 Rue du Faubourg
Tel 08-25 02 00 20.
Cité de la Musique St-Honoré, 75008 Paris. La Géode
Kiosque Théâtre 221 Ave Jean-Jaurès, Tel 01-42 56 13 13. 26 Ave Corentin-Cariou,
Place de la Madeleine, 75019 Paris. 75019 Paris.
Zénith
75008 Paris. Tel 01-44 84 44 84. Tel 01-40 05 79 99.
211 Ave Jean-Jaurès,
∑ kiosquetheatre.com
New Morning 75019 Paris. Le Grand Rex
∑ zenith-paris.com 1 Bld Poissonnière,
Theater 7–9 Rue des Petites-
75002 Paris.
Ecuries, 75010 Paris.
Tel 01-45 23 51 41. Clubs and Cabaret Tel 01-45 08 93 89.
Comédie des
Champs-Elysées Balajo Max Linder
Olympia
9 Rue de Lappe, 75011 Panorama
15 Ave Montaigne, 28 Bld des Capucines,
Paris. Tel 01-47 00 07 87. 24 Bld Poissonnière,
75008 Paris. 75009 Paris.
75009 Paris.
Tel 01-53 23 99 19. Tel 08-92 68 33 68. Folies-Bergère Tel 01-48 24 00 47.
Comédie Française Opéra Comique 32 Rue Richer, 75009 Paris.
1 Pl Colette, (Salle Favart) 5 Rue Favart, Tel 08-92 68 16 50. Spectator Sport
75001 Paris. 75002 Paris. La Java Palais Omnisports
Tel 08-25 10 16 80. Tel 01-42 44 45 40. 105 Rue du Faubourg- de Paris-Bercy
Palais Royal Opéra de Paris du-Temple, 75010 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy, 75012
38 Rue Montpensier, Bastille Tel 01-42 02 20 52. Paris. Tel 01-40 02 60 60.
75001 Paris. 120 Rue de Lyon, Lido Parc des Princes
Tel 01-42 97 40 00. 75012 Paris. 116 bis Ave Champs- 24 Rue du Commandant-
Tel 01-40 01 17 89. Elysées, 75008 Paris. Guilbaud, 75016 Paris.
Théâtre National
Tel 01-40 76 56 10. Tel 01-47 43 71 71.
de Chaillot Palais Omnisports
Place du Trocadéro, de Paris-Bercy Moulin Rouge Stade de France
75016 Paris. 8 Bld de Bercy 75012. 82 Bld de Clichy, 75018 La Plaine St-Denis, 93210
Tel 01-53 65 30 00. Tel 08-92-39 04 90. Paris. Tel 01-53 09 82 82. Paris. Tel 08-92 70 09 00.
206  FRANCE
Where to Stay
Bright accommodations in a Price Guide
Paris centrally located hotel. Free Wi-Fi. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
Mayet €€ BEAUBOURG: Hôtel de la € under €100
Boutique Bretonnerie €€ €€ €100 to €250
€€€ over €250
3 Rue Mayet, 75006 Boutique Map E3
Tel 01-47 83 21 35 22 Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie,
∑ mayet.com 75004 LEFT BANK: Résidence
Painted tables and abstract murals Tel 01-48 87 77 63 Le Prince Regent €€€
jazz up the interior of this hotel. ∑ hotelbretonnerie.com Luxury
Exposed beams, stone vaulting, 28 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: and rich fabrics give this hotel Tel 01-56 24 19 21
Four Seasons George V €€€ a distinctly medieval flavor. ∑ leprinceregent.com
Luxury Map B2 Here you’ll find gracefully
31 Avenue George V, 75008 decorated rooms, spacious
Tel 01-49 52 71 00 DK Choice apartments, and a hammam.
∑ fourseasons.com ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
This iconic establishment offers BEAUBOURG: Le Pavillon TUILERIES & OPÉRA: Chopin €
its guests modern comforts in de la Reine €€€ Modern
an opulent setting. Luxury Map F4 46 Passage Jouffroy, 75009
28 Place des Vosges, 75003 Tel 01-47 70 58 10
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-40 29 19 19 ∑ hotelchopin.fr
BEAUBOURG: Britannique €€ ∑ pavillon-de-la-reine.com This simple hotel stands at the end
Boutique Map E3 Overlooking the city’s most of a 19th-century glass-roofed
20 Avenue Victoria, 75001 beautiful square, Le Pavillon arcade, close to city attractions.
Tel 01-42 33 74 59 has an unrivaled setting. The
∑ hotel-britannique.fr 17th-century mansion has been TUILERIES & OPERA:
Maritime details adorn this refurbished in elegant country- Brighton €€€
smart hotel with a British feel. house style, with romantic Boutique Map D3
bedrooms and a lovely spa. 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & Tel 01-47 03 61 61
BEAUBOURG: Caron de ∑ paris-hotel-brighton.com
Beaumarchais €€ Enjoy breathtaking views of
Boutique Map E3 DK Choice the Tuileries amid antique
12 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & furnishings and chandeliers.
Tel 01-42 72 34 12 BEAUBOURG:
∑ carondebeaumarchais.com Le Petit Moulin €€€
This is a tastefully decorated hotel Romantic
with 18th-century inspired decor 29–31 Rue du Poitou, 75003 Northern France
as seen in the color schemes and Tel 01-42 74 10 10
elegant upholstered furniture. ∑ hotelpetitmoulinparis.com MONT-ST-MICHEL:
The oldest boulangerie (bakery) Terrasses Poulard €€
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & in Paris now houses this wacky Boutique
BEAUBOURG: Hospitel €€ hotel. Rooms reflect the designer BP 18, 50170
Modern Map E4 Christian Lacroix’s love of Tel 02-33 89 02 02
1 Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 75004 opulence, and are romantic with ∑ terrasses-poulard.fr
Tel 01-44 32 01 00 audacious murals. There is free This old stone building offers
∑ hotel-hospitel.fr Wi-Fi, access for the disabled, stunning views of the bay and
and private parking. the abbey. Small, clean rooms.
REIMS: Château Les Crayères €€€

LEFT BANK: Luxury
Les Degrés de Notre Dame €€ 64 Boulevard Henry Vasnier, 51100
Boutique Map E4 Tel 03-26 24 90 00
10 Rue des Grands Degrés, 75005 ∑ lescrayeres.com
Tel 01-55 42 88 88 Aristocratic luxury château in
∑ lesdegreshotel.monsite-orange.fr an English-style wooded park.
A vintage charmer with Excellent on-site restaurant.
attractive beamed bedrooms.
ROUEN: Hôtel de
LEFT BANK: Hôtel des Bourgtheroulde €€€
Grands Hommes €€ Luxury
Romantic 15 Place de la Pucelle d’Orléans,
17 Place du Panthéon, 75005 76000
Tel 01-46 34 19 60 Tel 02-35 14 50 50
∑ hoteldesgrandshommes.com ∑ hotelsparouen.com
Enjoy breathtaking views of The ornate Renaissance facade
Modern French style at Le Pavillon de la the Panthéon from this elegant, belies all the modern comforts of
Reine on Place des Vosges, Paris glossy hotel. this boutique hotel. Great spa.
ST-MALO:
La Maison Armateurs €
Boutique
6 Grand Rue, 35400
Tel 02-99 40 87 70
∑ maisondesarmateurs.com
An old ship-owners’ house in the
old town is now a chic hotel with
bright and modern rooms.
STRASBOURG: Le Chut €€
Budget
4 Rue du Bain aux Plantes, 67000
Tel 03-88 32 05 06
∑ hote-strasbourg.fr
Offers a classy Zen atmosphere
and sleek rooms. Great restaurant.
Exposed beams in one of the vast suites at the Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Onzain
The Loire Valley
TOURS: Hôtel l’Adresse € LYON: Hôtel des Artistes €€
CHARTRES: Modern Modern
Le Grand Monarque € 12 Rue de la Rôtisserie, 37000 8 Rue Gaspard-André, 69002
Boutique Tel 02-47 20 85 76 Tel 04-78 42 04 88
22 Place des Epars, 28005 ∑ hotel-ladresse.com ∑ hotel-des-artistes.fr
Tel 02-37 18 15 15 This modern hotel is concealed This delightful hotel, with
∑ bw-grand-monarque.com behind the facade of an 18th- pleasant, bright, and airy rooms,
A converted 16th-century staging century townhouse. is a favorite haunt of actors.
post with spacious rooms, a bistro,
fine dining, and a luxury spa. LYON: Cour des Loges €€€
Luxury
CHENONCEAUX: Burgundy and the 6 Rue du Boeuf, 69005
Hôtel du Bon Laboureur
Luxury
€€ French Alps Tel 04-72 77 44 44
∑ courdesloges.com
6 Rue de Dr. Bretonneau, 37150 ANNECY: The elegant rooms here blend
Tel 02-47 23 90 02 Hôtel Palais de l’Isle €€ Renaissance-period features
∑ bonlaboureur.com Historic and contemporary decor.
Stay in neat rooms housed in 13 Rue Perrière, 74000
18th-century stone dwellings. Tel 04-50 45 86 87 POLIGNY: Hostellerie des
∑ palaisannecy.com Monts de Vaux €€
CHINON: Hôtel Diderot € Renovated 18th-century house Luxury
Budget on the Thouin Canal. Comfortable Monts Vaux, 39800
4 Rue Buffon, 37500 rooms and modern decor. Tel 03-84 37 12 50
Tel 02-47 93 18 87 ∑ hostellerie.com
∑ hoteldiderot.com CHAMBERY: A family-run hotel in a coaching
Elegant creeper-clad hotel on a Hôtel des Princes € inn, with rooms decorated in a
quiet street near the city center. Boutique classic bourgeois style.
4 Rue de Boigne, 73000
Tel 04-79 33 45 36
DK Choice ∑ hoteldesprinces.eu
ONZAIN: Domaine des This quiet and comfortable hotel Southwest France
Hauts de Loire €€€ near the Fontaine des Eléphants
Luxury offers friendly service. BIARRITZ:
79 Rue Gilbert Navard, 41150 Hôtel du Palais €€€
Tel 02-54 20 72 57 DIJON: Le Jacquemart € Luxury
∑ domainehautsloire.com Historic 1 Ave de l’Impératrice, 64200
This ivy-clad hunting lodge 32 Rue Verrerie, 21000 Tel 05-59 41 64 00
retains its grandeur with lavish Tel 03-80 60 09 60 ∑ hotel-du-palais.com
guest rooms. Those in the old ∑ hotel-lejacquemart.fr Famous palatial hotel in a superb
coach house are the most Rooms come in all shapes and beach location, with an opulent
opulent. The chef prepares sizes at this hotel in a centrally spa, pool, and other facilities.
cutting-edge food, served located 17th-century building.
with superb local wines. BORDEAUX:
GRENOBLE: La Maison du Lierre €€
Splendid Hôtel € Boutique
ORLEANS: Hôtel de l’Abeille €€ Value 57 Rue Huguerie, 33000
Boutique 22 Rue Thiers, 38000 Tel 05-56 51 92 71
64 Rue Alsace Lorraine, 45000 Tel 04-76 46 33 12 ∑ hotel-maisondulierre-
Tel 02-38 53 54 87 ∑ splendid-hotel.com bordeaux.com
∑ hoteldelabeille.com Smart hotel with a walled garden. Charming hotel in a historic house
Grand Neoclassical building with Good amenities and rooms that with a pretty garden. Breakfast is
old-style rooms. Rooftop terrace. range from classic to modern. served in the inner courtyard.
208  FRANCE
ARLES: MONACO: Columbus €€€

Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre € Boutique
Boutique 23 Avenue des Papalins, 98000
5–7 Rue Diderot, 13200 Tel 377-92 05 92 22
Tel 04-90 96 10 30 ∑ columbushotels.com
∑ hotelamphitheatre.fr Sleek designer rooms feature
Charming Provençal decor in the dark stone and polished metal.
several family rooms at this gem. Excellent restaurant and cigar bar.
MOUSTIERS-STE-MARIE:
DK Choice La Bastide de Moustiers €€€
ARLES: L’Hôtel Historic
Particulier à Arles €€€ Chemin de Quinson, 04360
Historic Tel 04-92 70 47 47
4 Rue de la Monnaie, 13200 ∑ bastide-moustiers.com
Tel 04-90 52 51 40 This 17th-century building has
∑ hotel-particulier.com gardens, mountain views, and a
Step into a world of rich superb Alain Ducasse restaurant.
elegance and opulent living
Abstract art and chocolate decor at the at this historic hotel. The walled NICE: Hôtel Windsor €€
Hôtel Bristol, Pau garden, swimming pool, and Boutique
an ultra-sophisticated spa 11 Rue Dalpozzo, 06000
PAU: Hôtel Bristol €€ and hammam all make for Tel 04-93 88 59 35
Room with a view a dreamy stay. Superb service. ∑ hotelwindsornice.com
3 Rue Gambetta, 64000 Stay in individually decorated
Tel 05-59 27 72 98 rooms. There is also a pool within
∑ hotelbristol-pau.com AVIGNON: Hôtel Bristol € an exotic garden.
Traditional, centrally located hotel Modern
with good facilities. Some rooms 44 Cours Jean Jaurès, 84000 NICE: Le Negresco €€€
have balconies with fine views. Tel 04-90 16 48 48 Luxury
∑ bristol-avignon.com 37 Promenade des Anglais 06000
PAUILLAC: A classy hotel with refined rooms, Tel 04-93 16 64 00
Château Cordeillan-Bages €€ including several for families. Pet- ∑ hotel-negresco-nice.com
Luxury friendly. Convenient location. This renowned vintage hotel was
Route des Châteaux, 33250 designed by Henri Negrescu. It
Tel 05-56 59 24 24 AVIGNON: La Mirande €€€ has superb works of art, flawless
∑ cordeillanbages.com Luxury service, and top-notch facilities.
Magnificent 17th-century château 4 Place de la Mirande, 84000
with splendid gardens, set in the Tel 04-90 14 20 20 NIMES: Imperator-Concorde €€
heart of the Médoc vineyards. ∑ la-mirande.fr Luxury
Closed November to mid-March. This cardinal’s mansion by the Quai de la Fontaine, 30000
Papal Palace has been sensitively Tel 04-66 21 90 30
POITIERS: Les Cours du Clain € renovated in 18th-century style. ∑ hotel-imperator.com
Historic Built in 1929, the Concorde is
117 Chemin de la Grotte à Calvin, CANNES: Carlton a favorite of celebrities, with a
86000 InterContinental €€€ lovely garden featuring cedar
Tel 06-10 16 09 55 Luxury and palm trees.
∑ lescoursduclain-poitiers.com 58 la Croisette, 06400
A beautiful B&B set in a historic Tel 04-93 06 40 06
house with a garden and pool. ∑ intercontinental-carlton- DK Choice
cannes.com ST-TROPEZ: Pastis Hôtel
TOULOUSE: Popular with celebrities, this Art St-Tropez €€€
Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra €€ Deco establishment has breath- Boutique
Historic taking suites and a private beach. 6 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 83990
1 Place du Capitole, 31000 Tel 04-98 12 56 50
Tel 05-61 21 40 00 CARCASSONNE: ∑ pastis-st-tropez.com
∑ grand-hotel-opera.com Hôtel de la Cité €€ This ideal intimate hideaway is
Housed in a former 17th-century Luxury filled with 20th-century art. The
convent, this elegant hotel is set Place August-Pierre Pont, 11000 heated garden pool is idyllic,
in the heart of the city. Tel 04-68 71 98 71 surrounded by centuries-old
∑ hoteldelacite.com palm trees – the perfect spot
Expect period rooms, a glorious for breakfast or a nightcap.
pool, and gardens, plus three
The South of France eateries with immaculate service.
VILLEFRANCHE SUR MER:
AIX-EN-PROVENCE: MARSEILLE: Hotel Hôtel Welcome €€
Hôtel Cézanne €€ Résidence du Vieux Port €€ Boutique
Boutique Boutique 1 Quai Amiral Courbet, 06230
40 Avenue Victor Hugo, 13100 18 Quai du Port, 13002 Tel 04-93 76 27 62
Tel 04-42 91 11 11 Tel 04-91 91 91 22 ∑ welcomehotel.com
∑ cezanne.hotelaix.com ∑ hotel-residence-marseille.com Artist Jean Cocteau’s favorite hotel,
Arty, vibrant decor by Charles Enjoy color-drenched 1950s- the Welcome is full of period
Montemarco at this chic hotel. style decor and fabulous views. charm. Also has a great wine bar.

Price Guide
DK Choice
Paris Prices are for a three-course meal for
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS &
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: BEAUBOURG: Spring €€€
L’Arpège €€€ Modern French Map D3 € under €30
Traditional French Map C4 6 Rue Bailleul, 75001 €€ €30 to €65
€€€ over €65
84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Tel 01-45 96 05 72 Closed Sun &
Tel 01-47 05 09 06 Closed Sat & Sun Mon
A mecca for vegetable-lovers, this Spring’s chef Daniel Rose, LEFT BANK:
eatery is all about homegrown a magician in the kitchen, La Tour d’Argent €€€
produce and sophisticated dining. produces a superlative Traditional French Map E4
fixed-price tasting menu that 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: is dependent on the freshest Tel 01-43 54 23 31 Closed Sun & Mon
La Fontaine de Mars €€€ produce available. He cooks World-famous institution with a
Regional Map B3 unique versions of French romantic dining room boasting
129 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 classics, which can be enjoyed panoramic views. The bar doubles
Tel 01-47 05 46 44 with great wines from a vast as a gastronomic museum.
Duck cassoulet is the flagship dish selection. The sommeliers will
at this archetypal bistro. Beautiful be able to advise on suitable TUILERIES & OPERA: Chartier €€
interiors and great service. pairings. Open for dinner only. Traditional French
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre,
CHAMPS-ELYSEES & INVALIDES: 75009
Le Jules Verne €€€ LEFT BANK: El Loubnane €€ Tel 01-47 70 86 29
Modern French Map B3 Lebanese Map E4 At this iconic brasserie,
5 Avenue Gustave Eiffel, 75007 29 Rue Gallande, 75005 traditionally dressed waiters serve
Tel 01-45 55 61 44 Tel 01-43 26 70 60 Closed Mon simple, good food in glorious
Alain Ducasse’s restaurant on Enjoy deliciously fragrant meze belle-époque surroundings.
the Eiffel Tower’s second platform at this family-run establishment.
offers stylish dining to complement Do not miss the pistachio-stuffed TUILERIES & OPERA:
the 360-degree views over Paris. crêpes and katayef. Chez Georges €€
Traditional French Map D2
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & LEFT BANK: Le Procope €€ 1 Rue du Mail, 75002
BEAUBOURG: L’Ambassade Traditional French Map D4 Tel 01-42 60 07 11 Closed Sat & Sun
d’Auvergne €€ 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, The bistro fare at this eatery is as
Auvergnat Map 9 B2 75006 old-fashioned as the decor, but it
22 Rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 75003 Tel 01-40 46 79 00 remains sublime. It was a favorite
Tel 01 42 72 31 22 The city’s oldest café, dating with famed cook Julia Child.
This rustic inn serves Auvergne from 1686, Le Procope still
dishes such as aligot (potatoes retains its original atmosphere. TUILERIES & OPERA:
with cheese and garlic). Great selection of desserts. Le Grand Véfour €€€
Modern French Map D3
ILE DE LA CITE, MARAIS & LEFT BANK: L’Agrume €€€ 17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001
BEAUBOURG: Frenchie €€€ Modern French Tel 01-42 96 56 27 Closed Sat & Sun
Modern French 15 Rue des Fossés St-Marcel, 75005 The highly acclaimed chef, Guy
5–6 Rue du Nil, 75002 Tel 01-43 31 86 48 Closed Mon Martin’s innovative fare is served
Tel 01-40 39 96 19 Closed Sat & Sun & Sun in an 18th-century room where
One of Paris’s hottest bistros, Foodies line up at L’Agrume to Napoleon dined with Josephine.
Frenchie serves exquisite dishes sample the renowned chef’s
on fixed-price menus. Book ahead. five-course tasting menu. FARTHER AFIELD: Au Boeuf
Couronné €€
Traditional French Map F4
8 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
Tel 01-42 39 44 44
The luxe burgundy leather and
gold furnishings set the stage for
over a dozen cuts of beef served
with frites or pommes soufflées.
Northern France
CARNAC: Le Calypso €€
Seafood
158 Rue du Pô, 56340
Tel 02-97 52 06 14 Closed Sun
dinner (except Jul & Aug); Mon
Le Calypso is a popular seafood
restaurant overlooking the oyster
Elegance and simplicity at L’Arpège, Paris beds of Anse du Pô.
210  FRANCE
DK Choice
LILLE: A l’Huitrière €€€
Seafood
3 Rue des Chats Bossus, 59800
Tel 03-20 55 43 41 Closed Sun
dinner
More than just a restaurant,
A l’Huitrière is also an oyster bar
and a seafood boutique where
you can buy the day’s catch. Try
the vinaigrette salad of smoked
eel with foie gras, pan-fried
lobster with tarragon, crayfish,
or the signature turbot.
The dining room at the Café du Palais in Reims, featuring a stunning stained-glass roof
DK Choice
REIMS: Café du Palais €€ CHARTRES: Le Grand TOURS: La Roche Le Roy €€€
Traditional French Monarque, Le Georges €€€ Fine Dining
14 Place Myron Herrick, 51100 Fine Dining 55 Rue de St-Avertin, 37000
Tel 03-26 47 52 54 Closed Sun & 22 Place des Epars, 28000 Tel 02-47 27 22 00 Closed Sun & Mon
Mon Tel 02-37 18 15 15 Closed Sun dinner; This Michelin-starred restaurant
A much-loved family-run Mon serves classic top-notch French
brasserie with excellent main Sample excellent classic French cuisine and fine wines.
dishes, great desserts, and a fine cuisine at this gourmet restaurant,
selection of champagnes. The accompanied by grand cru wines.
decor consists of an Aladdin’s
cave of theatrical memorabilia
DK Choice Burgundy and the
under a stained-glass roof. French Alps
NANTES: L’U.Ni €€€
Modern French ANNECY: Le Belvédère €€€
ROUEN: Le 37 €€ 36 Rue Fouré Modern French
Bistro Tel 02-40 75 53 05 Closed Mon 7 Chemin Belvédère, 74000
37 Rue St-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, & Tue Tel 04-50 45 04 90Closed Sun dinner;
76000 Savvy young chef Nicolas Guiet Tue & Wed; Oct–May
Tel 02-35 70 56 65 Closed Sun & Mon heads this restaurant, which Lovely lake views and appetizing
Attractive city-center bistro has created ripples in gourmet contemporary food. Try the
serving modern cuisine. Find the circles. L’U.Ni’s signature dishes vegetable and flower cheesecake
daily specials on the blackboard. include barely cooked brill with served with a watercress coulis.
baby turnips and spinach, and
ST-MALO: Le Chalut €€€ desserts such as carrot and BEAUNE:
Seafood orange cake accompanied by Le Bistro de L’Hôtel €€€
8 Rue de la Corne de Cerf, 35400 a carrot and honey mousse. Bistro
Tel 02-99 56 71 58 Closed Mon & Tue 3 Rue Samuel Legay, 21200
Fishing-themed decor provides Tel 03-80 25 94 10 Closed lunch; Sun
the perfect ambience at this ORLÉANS: La Dariole €€ This chic bistro uses high-quality
Michelin-starred seafood eatery. Traditional French ingredients sourced from local
25 Rue Etienne Dolet, 45000 suppliers. It also boasts an
STRASBOURG: Tel 02-38 77 26 67 Closed Sat & Sun; excellent selection of wines.
Winstub Zuem Strissel €€ Mon, Wed & Thu: dinner
Regional A 15th-century half-timbered CHABLIS: Terroir €€
5 Place de la Grande Boucherie, 67000 building houses this little Regional
Tel 03-88 32 14 73 restaurant and tearoom. 16 Rue Auxerroise, 89800
The oldest eatery in Alsace serves Tel 03-86 18 98 52 Closed Sun
baeckeoffe (a mutton, beef, pork SAUMUR: Auberge St-Pierre €€ dinner; Mon & Tue; mid-Nov–Jan
casserole) and bibelekäse (cream Regional Expect innovative takes on classic
cheese and sautéed potatoes). 6 Place St-Pierre, 49400 dishes such as Burgundy snails
Tel 02-41 51 26 25 and beef bourguignon. Friendly
On a square near the château, in and efficient staff.
a former 15th-century monastery,
The Loire Valley this convivial restaurant serves DIJON: William Frachot €€€
hearty Burgundy dishes. Modern French
BLOIS: 5 Rue Michelet, 21000
L’Orangerie du Château €€€ TOURS: Les Saveurs €€ Tel 03-80 50 88 88 Closed Sun
Fine Dining Bistro & Mon
1 Avenue Jean Laigret, 41000 1 Place Gaston Paillhou, 37000 One of Dijon’s top restaurants,
Tel 02-54 78 05 36 Closed Sun & Mon Tel 02-47 37 03 13 Closed Sun & Mon the restaurant in the Hostellerie
The fine setting, in a château’s A chic and modern bistro serving du Chapeau Rouge provides
winter garden, is matched by tasty dishes. The kitchen uses inventive modern fare. Expect
the food and wine. The menu seasonal produce sourced dishes such as pigeon served
features innovative regional fare. from the daily market. with a beetroot and lychee sauce.
GRENOBLE: A Ma Table €€ ST-JEAN-DE-LUZ: Chez Pablo € CANNES: Angolo Italiano €€

Traditional Regional Italian
92 Cours Jean-Jaurès, 38000 5 Rue Mlle Etcheto, 64500 6 Rue des Batéguiers, 06400
Tel 04-76 96 77 04 Closed dinner Tue, Tel 05-59 26 37 81 Closed Mon & Tel 04-93 68 42 36 Closed Mon
Wed & Fri; Sat–Mon Tue dinner (Nov–Easter); Wed Neapolitan-run eatery with Italian
This beautiful restaurant prepares Friendly eatery with bench seating charcuterie and cheeses, grilled
dishes such as rabbit with mint and Basque seafood classics. meats, and seafood.
served with zucchini tagliatelle.
ST-JEAN-DE-LUZ: Le Kaïku €€€ CANNES: La Palme d’Or €€€
LYON: Le Canut et Les Gones €€ Fine Dining Fine Dining
Regional 17 Rue de la République, 64500 73 la Croisette, 06400
29 Rue Belfort, 69004 Tel 05-59 26 13 20 Closed Mon; Tel 04-92 98 74 14 Closed Sun–Tue
Tel 04-78 29 17 23 Closed Mon; Sep–Jun This fashionable, two-Michelin-
Classic Lyonnais dishes such as Inventive Basque cuisine by chef starred restaurant is part of the
coq au vin, andouillette, and tête Nicolas Borombo is served in an famous Hotel Martinez.
de veau are reinterpreted with old stone house. Superb fish.
flair at this bistro named after the
silk workers of Lyon. TOULOUSE: Michel Sarran €€€ DK Choice
Fine Dining CARCASSONNE:
21 Boulevard Armand Duportal, 31000 La Marquière €€
Tel 05-61 12 32 32 Closed Sat & Sun; Regional
Southwest France Aug 13 Rue St-Jean, 11000
This chic establishment is headed Tel 04-68 71 52 00 Closed Wed &
BIARRITZ: Chez Albert €€ by one of France’s finest chefs. Thu; Jan 10–Feb 10
Brasserie A sublime gourmet experience. Located up in the Cité, La
51bis Allée Port des Pêcheurs, 64200 Marquière is a family-run local
Tel 05-59 24 43 84 Closed Wed favorite. The food is authentic
This bright, bustling seafood Southwestern – duck breasts
brasserie in the port of Biarritz The South of France and confits, foie gras, and
is blessed with great views. Try cassoulet. Oysters and other
the mixed seafood platter. AIX-EN-PROVENCE: seafood are also available.
Le Poivre d’Ane €€
BORDEAUX: Modern French
Le Bar-Cave de la Monnaie €€ 40 Place Forum des Cardeurs, 13100
Regional Tel 04-42 21 32 66 Closed Wed DK Choice
34 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, 33000 Locals flock to this spot on the MARSEILLE: Chez Fonfon €€
Tel 05-56 31 12 33 picturesque Forum des Cardeurs Seafood
The chalkboard menu is short, with in the old town to eat good value, 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes,
every item a Bordelaise specialty. seasonal tasting menus of French 13007
Accompany with local wines. cuisine with an exotic twist. Tel 04-91 52 14 38
Perched in a tiny fishing port
BORDEAUX: Miles €€ ARLES: La Grignotte € with unbeatable views of
Modern French Regional Map B3 Marseillaise fishermen in action,
33 Rue du Cancera, 33000 6 Rue Favorin, 13200 this elegant family-run seafood
Tel 05-56 81 18 24 Closed Mon Tel 04-90 93 10 43 Closed Sun restaurant has been serving the
Watch the chefs at this renegade Try the fish soup and beef stew local’s favorite bouillabaisse,
bistro while they prepare exquisite with Camargue rice at this cheery grilled fish, and raw oysters
but budget-friendly tasting menus. eatery. Good house wines. since it opened doors in 1952.
LA ROCHELLE: AVIGNON: La Fourchette €€

Le Boute en Train €€ Regional NICE: Voyageur Nissart €
Bistro 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Regional
7 Rue des Bonnes Femmes, 17000 Tel 04-90 85 20 93 Closed Sat & Sun 19 Rue Alsace Lorraine, 06000
Tel 05-46 41 73 74 Closed Sun & Mon A quirky restaurant, offering Tel 04-93 82 19 60 Closed Mon
Enjoy hearty classic fare made its own innovative take on Head here for exquisite regional
with market-fresh ingredients. Provençal classics, with lots of bistro dishes without the frills or
There is also a quality wine list. seafood and delicious cheeses. the tourist prices.
NICE: Passion’elle €€
Fine Dining
14 Rue Maccarani, 06000
Tel 04-93 82 24 12 Closed lunch
Classics, such as ratatouille and
lamb, are reinvented and served
in style. Good vegetarian choices.
NIMES: Aux Plaisirs des Halles €€€

Traditional French
4 Rue Littré, 30000
Tel 04-66 36 01 02 Closed Sun & Mon
Friendly eatery with tables indoors
and outdoors. Chalkboard menu
Rustic accents and cozy dining at La Marquière, Carcassonne features foie gras, steaks, and duck.
BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG
Famed for its magnificent Flemish art and Gothic architecture, Belgium, like
neighboring Luxembourg, is a melting pot of various influences, including
Dutch, French, and German. The histories of the two countries have long been
interlinked, but culturally and linguistically they are distinct. Luxembourg, a
major financial center, is one of the smallest states in Europe.
In recent times, both Belgium and History

Luxembourg have largely avoided the At the start of the 12th century, commerce
limelight, but it was here, in the Middle became the guiding force in Europe, and
Ages, that the first great towns of Northern the centers of trade quickly grew into
Europe were born, and where the first powerful cities. Rivers and canals were keys
experiments with oil paintings were to the growth of the area’s towns; Brussels,
made. Today, Brussels, as the center of Ghent, Ypres, Antwerp, and Bruges became
government for the European Union, is the focus of a cloth trade between Belgium,
theoretically the capital of Europe, but its France, Germany, Italy, and England.
reputation remains overshadowed by In 1369 Philip, Duke of Burgundy,
those of the larger European capitals. married the daughter of the Count of
Perhaps more than any other country in Flanders, and a few years later the Low
Europe, Belgium is most aptly defined by Countries and eastern France came under
contrasts. The division between the Flemish the couple’s Burgundian rule. A century
inhabitants of the north and the French- later, the death of Mary of Burgundy left
speaking Walloons in the south is mirrored her husband, the Habsburg Emperor
by a geographical divide; the estuarial Maximilian, ruler of Belgium. In 1488,
plains of Brabant and Flanders give way to Brussels and the rest of Flanders rebelled
the rolling hill-country of the Ardennes, against this new power, but the Austrians
which stretches south and east through prevailed, largely because of a plague
the castle-dotted woods of Luxembourg. which decimated the population in 1490.
European Parliament building rising above the trees of Parc Léopold, Brussels
One of the majestic gilt-edged buildings surrounding the Grand Place, Brussels
By 1555, the Low Countries had passed Napoleon’s defeat, by the Dutch. William I
into the hands of the Spanish Habsburgs, of Orange was appointed King of the
whose Catholic repression of the Netherlands at the Congress of Vienna in
Protestants sparked the 1815, and his autocratic
Dutch Revolt. In the course style, together with a
of the wars that led to series of anti-Catholic
Dutch independence measures, bred
(1568–1648), the considerable discontent,
predominantly Catholic especially among the
southern part of the Low French-speaking
Countries remained under Walloons. An 1830
Spanish rule. In 1700, the uprising ousted the
Spanish Habsburg dynasty Dutch and made
died out, and England, Leopold I king of a
Austria, and other powers newly independent
united to oppose French Belgium. Nine years later,
designs on the region in the Luxembourg, a Grand-
War of the Spanish King Leopold I, the first king of the Belgians, Duchy since 1815, also
Succession. When the war crowned in 1830 gained independence.
came to an end in 1713, the Both countries’
Treaty of Utrecht transferred Belgium and economies flourished throughout the
Luxembourg to the Austrian Habsburgs. 19th century, but all was eclipsed with
Belgium was again ruled by foreign the start of World War I. In 1940, the
powers between 1794 and 1830. First, by Germans invaded again, this time
the French Republicans, and then, after under Hitler’s command.
Belgium’s history in the latter half
KEY DATES IN THE HISTORY OF of the 20th century was dominated by
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG the ongoing language debate between
56 BC Julius Caesar conquers the Low Countries the Flemings and the Walloons. The
963 AD Count Siegfried establishes Luxembourg constitution was redrawn, creating a
1229 Brussels granted its first charter federal state with three separate regions:
1430 Under Burgundian rule, Brussels becomes the Flanders, Wallonia, and Brussels.
major administrative center of the region
1482 The region falls under Austrian sovereignty Language and Culture
1519 Charles V becomes Holy Roman Emperor In the north of Belgium, the Flemish
1555–1794 Spanish and Austrian rule have their roots in the Netherlands
1794 French Republican armies take over and Germany, while the Walloons of
1815 Belgium and Luxembourg pass to William I of the south are related to the French.
Orange, King of the Netherlands
French is one of the official languages
1830 Belgium gains independence
of Luxembourg, as is German, but the
1839 Luxembourg gains independence
indigenous language is Letzeburgesch,
1914 Both countries invaded by Germany
a dialect of German spoken by all.
1940 Nazi troops occupy both countries
Artistically, Belgium is best known for
1958 EEC (now the EU) headquarters set up in Brussels
1962 Act of Parliament divides Belgium into Dutch-
its 17th-century painters (including
and French-speaking regions Rubens, van Dyck, and Jordaens) and
1967 NATO headquarters move to Brussels more recently for its Art Nouveau style
2000 Grand Duke of Luxembourg abdicates in favor of architecture and Surrealist artists,
of his eldest son, Henri such as Magritte. Today, the country
2013 King Albert II of Belgium abdicates in favor of is one of the world’s most popular
his son Philippe
producers of chocolate and beer.
BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG  215
Exploring Belgium and Luxembourg

Brussels is not only the capital of Belgium, but also of
Europe, as the center of government for the European
Union. The city lies in the center of the country on the flat,
fertile Brabant plain. Today, its excellent communications
make it an ideal place from which to explore the historic
towns of Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges. Toll-free motorways
compare favorably with any in France, train travel is swift
and competitively priced, and there are good bus services
in the areas not covered by trains. Transport in
Luxembourg is equally good, with the hub of
communications in Luxembourg City itself.
Sights at a Glance
The medieval market square, seen from the
1 Brussels pp216–23 4 Ghent
Belfort tower, Bruges
2 Antwerp 5 Waterloo
3 Bruges pp226–8 6 Luxembourg
Amsterdam
NETHERL AN D S
Hull NORTH
SEA
A1
Zeebrugge
A21
Oostende Bruges Antwerp Albe
N49 rt Ka
Ramsgate (Brugge) (Antwerpen) naal
N74
A13
Ghent A14
A18
A12
A1
t
held Dusseldorf
A17
(Gent) Sc Mechelen A24

A2
er A1
Calais Ijz 0 Cologne
3
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N2
A1 (Bruxelles/Brussel) GERMANY
Dijle
A19
ut
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N62
A3 N3
Es Waterloo A3
9
A5
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N2
A8
4
Verviers
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use
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B E L G 15I U M Me
A2
6 A N90 7
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Mons
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Sam rth
6
Paris Dinant
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FRANCE N97
N4
A4
Reims
N7
Bastogne
N5
0 kilometers 40 Vianden
N9
5
0 miles 40 Echternach
N4
LUXEMBOURG
Reims
1
Arlon LUXEMBOURG
A1
3
Saarbrücken
Key
Highway
Major road
Railroad
Picturesque Château de Vianden, Luxembourg

1 Brussels
With more than one million inhabitants, the
Brussels-Capital Region is made up of nineteen
districts. The actual city of Brussels is much smaller
and divided into two main areas. Historically the
poorer area, where workers and immigrants
lived, the Lower Town is centered on the
splendid 17th-century Grand Place.
A N RT
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Sights at a Glance
AS
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Palais de Justice RD
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1 Grand Place L E DE L
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U
RU
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BONUE
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2 Musée du Costume et de
A
E
H
AV
RUE
la Dentelle
3 Manneken Pis
4 Centre Belge de la Bande
Dessinée
5 Cathédrale Sts-Michel et Gudule
6 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Getting Around
7 Palais Royal
Brussels’ Lower Town is well served by trams. However,
8 Place du Grand Sablon
many streets are pedestrianized, and usually the
9 European Parliament Quarter quickest way of getting around is on foot. In the
0 Parc du Cinquantenaire Upper Town, the best option is to take one of the
buses that run through the district. Brussels’ metro
Greater Brussels (see inset map) stations are well placed for the main sights of interest,
q Musée Horta and the system offers a fast and efficient way of
w Bruparck reaching the suburbs.
BRUSSELS  217
Antwerp
Greater Brussels
A1
Strombeek- Bruxelles National
Bever Brussel Nationaal
A12
RO
N1
R2
1 Diegen 1
20 A
Zaventem
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Ghent Liège
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N2
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A3
27
N8
N2
Woluwe-
RO
BRUSSELS Saint-Lambert
N6
Woluwe-
Saint-Pierre Charleroi
Etterbeek
Revelers in costumes at a festival 0 kilometers 3
St-Gilles
KRUIDTUIN in the Grand Place Ixelles
0 miles 3
Botanique
Kruidtuin
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BISCH L A A N
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0 meters 500
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Key
Pedestrian street
Bronze statues in the Place du Petit Sablon in the Upper Town

2 Musée du
Costume et de la
Dentelle
Rue de Violette 12. Tel 02-213 4450.
q Gare Centrale. @ 48, 95. Open
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
8 on request. 7 restricted.
Located within two 18th-

century gabled houses, this
museum is dedicated to one
of Brussels’ most successful
exports, Belgian lace, which
has been made here since the
12th century. The ground floor
Grand Place, Brussels’s historic main square has a display of costumes on
mannequins showing how lace
1 Grand Place resulting in the splendid has adorned fashions of every
q Bourse, Gare Centrale. @ 29,
Baroque ensemble that can era. Upstairs is a fine collection
38, 46, 47, 48, 66, 71. v 3, 4, 31, 32. be seen today. of antique lace from France,
Musée de la Ville: Maison du Roi. Tel Occupying the entire south- Flanders, and Italy.
02-279 4350. Open 10am–5pm Tue– west side of the square, the
Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 & 11, Gothic Hôtel de Ville (see
opposite) is the architectural 3 Manneken Pis
Dec 25. & 8 by prior arrangement.
masterpiece of the Grand Rues de l’Etuve & du Chêne.
The geographical, historical, Place. Opposite it stands La q Gare Centrale. @ 48, 95.
and commercial heart of the Maison du Roi (1536). Despite v 3, 4, 31, 32.
city, the Grand Place is the first its name, no king ever lived
port of call for most visitors to here; the building was used The tiny statue of a young boy
Brussels. A market was held on as a temporary jail and a tax relieving himself is Brussels’
this site as early as the 11th office. Redesigned in Gothic most unusual sight. The original
century. During the first half style in the late 19th bronze statue by Jérôme
of the 15th century, Brussels’ century, it is now home Duquesnoy the Elder was
town hall, the Hôtel de Ville, to the Musée de la first placed on the site in
was built, and city traders Ville, which contains 1619. After it was stolen
began to add individual 16th-century paintings and damaged by a former
guildhalls in a medley of and tapestries, and a convict in 1817, a replica
styles. In 1695, however, two collection of around was made and returned
days of cannon fire by the 900 costumes created to its revered site. The
French destroyed all but the for the Manneken Pis. inspiration for the statue
town hall and two facades. On the square’s eastern is unknown, but the
Trade guilds were urged to flank, the vast Neoclassical mystery only lends itself
rebuild their halls to designs edifice known as La Maison to rumor and fable and
approved by the town council, des Ducs de Brabant was increases the little boy’s
designed by Guillaume Manneken Pis charm. One theory
de Bruyn and consists of statue claims that in the 12th
six former guildhalls. century, the son of a
Facing it are Le Renard, built in duke was caught urinating
the 1690s for the guild of haber- against a tree in the midst
dashers, and Le Cornet (1697), of a battle, and was thus
the boatmen’s guild hall, whose commemorated in bronze as a
gable resembles a 17th-century symbol of the country’s military
frigate’s bow. Le Roi d’Espagne, courage. When, in 1698, a city
also known as La Maison des governor provided a set of
Boulangers, was built in the late clothes with which to dress the
17th century by the wealthy statue, he began a tradition that
bakers’ guild. The gilt bust over is still observed today. Visiting
the entrance represents St. heads of state donate miniature
Aubert, patron saint of bakers. versions of their national
Today, the building houses one costume for the boy, and now
of the Grand Place’s best-loved a collection of 900 outfits,
La Maison du Roi, built on the site of old bars, whose first floor offers fine including an Elvis suit, can be
bread, meat, and cloth halls views of the bustling square. seen in the Musée de la Ville.
BRUSSELS  219
Hôtel de Ville VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The idea of erecting a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth as a Practical Information
major European trading center had been under consideration Grand Place. Tel 02-279 2343.
Open for guided tours (in English:
since the end of the 13th century, but it was not until 1401 that 2pm Wed, 11am, 3pm, & 4pm
the first foundation stone was laid. Completed in 1459, the Hôtel Sun; call 02-548 0447 for more
de Ville emerged as the finest civic building in the country, a details). Closed public hols &
stature it still enjoys. Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to election days. & 7
design the left wing, where he used ornate columns, sculptures, Transport
turrets, and arcades. Jan van Ruysbroeck’s elegant spire helped q Bourse, Gare Centrale.
@ many routes. v 3, 4, 31, 32.
seal the building’s reputation. Tours of the interior are available,
with its 15th-century tapestries and works of art.
. Maximilian Room
This lavish hall, used today by the
city council, takes its name from
the portrait of Maximilian I of
Austria over the fireplace. It
contains 18th-century tapestries
depicting the history of
6th-century King Clovis.
. Council Chamber
This room was where the
ruling council of Brabant
The tower, begun in used to meet. Ancient
1449, is 96 m (315 ft) tapestries and gilt mirrors
The gabled roof, like high. It is topped by a line the walls above an
much of the town hall, statue of St. Michael, inlaid floor.
was fully restored in patron saint of Brussels.
1837 and cleaned
in the 1990s.
Gothic Room
137 stone
statues adorn
the facades.
Wedding Room
A Neo-Gothic style dominates
this civil marriage office. Its
ornate carved timbers include
mahogany inlaid with ebony.
began on the Gothic cathedral

in 1226 under Henry I, Duke of
Brabant, and continued over a
period of 300 years.
The cathedral interior is
relatively bare, due to Protestant
ransacking in 1579 and thefts
during the French Revolution.
Over the west door, however,
is a magnificent 16th-century
stained-glass window of the
Last Judgment. Another
splendid feature is the
Art Nouveau entrance hall of the Centre flamboyantly carved Baroque
Belge de la Bande Dessinée pulpit in the central aisle, by
an Antwerp sculptor, Hendrik
4 Centre Belge de Frans Verbruggen. In the crypt
la Bande Dessinée are the remains of the original
20 Rue des Sables. Tel 02-219 1980.
Romanesque church, which
@ 29, 38, 63, 66, 71. v 25, 55, 92, 93. dates back to 1047. The white limestone facade of the
q Botanique, Rogier, Centrale. Open Cathédrale Sts-Michel et Gudule
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Dec 25. & 8 0 = 7 6 Musées Royaux (1868–1914), the Musée Modern
This unique museum pays tribute

des Beaux-Arts (19th century–present day), and
the Musée Magritte.
to the Belgian passion for comic Rue de la Régence 3. Tel 02-508 3211. The Musée Oldmasters
strips, or bandes dessinées, and to @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95. holds one of the world’s finest
v 92, 93. q Parc, Centrale. Open
world-famous comic-strip artists collections of works by the
10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat &
from Belgium and abroad. Flemish Primitive School. A
Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 call in
One of the exhibitions shows work of particular note is The
advance. = - 0 7
the great comic-strip heroes, ∑ fine-arts-museum.be
Annunciation (c.1415–25) by
from Hergé’s Tintin – who made the Master of Flémalle. The
his debut in 1929 – to the Six centuries of art, both Belgian trademarks of the Flemish
Smurfs and the Flemish comic- and international, are displayed Primitives are a lifelike vitality
strip characters Suske and in the four museums that make and a clarity of light. The
Wiske. Other displays explain up the Musées Royaux des greatest exponent of the style
the stages of putting together Beaux-Arts: the Musée was Rogier van der Weyden
a comic strip. There is also a Oldmasters (15th–18th centuries), (c.1400–64), the official city
series of life-size cartoon sets, of the Musée Fin-de-Siècle painter to Brussels, who has
special appeal to children. The several splendid
museum holds 6,000 original works on display at
plates, and a valuable archive the museum.
of photographs and artifacts. Peter Bruegel
The collection is housed in a the Elder (c.1525–69),
beautiful building, built in one of the most
1903–6 to the design of the outstanding Flemish
Belgian Art Nouveau architect artists, settled in
Victor Horta (see p223). Brussels in 1563.
His earthy scenes
of peasant life remain
5 Cathédrale Sts- his best known works,
Michel et Gudule and are represented
Parvis Ste-Gudule. Tel 02-217 8345. here by paintings
@ 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71. v 92, 93. such as The Bird
q Centrale. Open daily. & to crypt Trap (1565).
and treasury. 7 call in advance. Another highlight
of the Musée
Belgium’s finest surviving Oldmasters is the
example of Brabant Gothic world-famous
architecture, the Cathédrale Sts- collection of works by
Michel et Gudule is the national Peter Paul Rubens
church of Belgium. There has (1577–1640). The
been a church on this site since The Assumption of the Virgin (c.1615) by Assumption of the
at least the 11th century. Work Rubens at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Virgin stands out
BRUSSELS  221
among his religious canvases.

Other notable paintings include
van Dyck’s Portrait of Porzia
Imperial with her daughter Maria
Francesca (1620s) and Three
Children with Goatcart by Frans
Hals (c.1582–1666).
The Musée Fin-de-Siècle
focuses on the years between
1868 and 1914, during which
Brussels was the artistic capital
of Europe, thanks to the efforts
of James Ensor, Constantin
Meunier, and Victor Horta,
among others. In addition to
visual arts, the museum
explores the literature, poetry
and music of the period. One of
the highlights of this collection
is a 3D reconstruction of six Art
Nouveau buildings. The magnificent 19th-century Palais Royal in Upper Town
Works in the Musée Modern
vary greatly in style and subject to the Hall of Mirrors at Today, this is an area of
matter, from Neoclassicism to Versailles (see pp168–9), is upscale antiques dealers,
Realism, Impressionism, and where ceremonial occasions fashionable restaurants, and
Symbolism. The dramatic Death are held, and guests presented trendy bars, where you can
of Marat (1793) by Jacques-Louis to the king and queen. stay drinking until the early
David (1748–1825) can be seen hours of the morning.
in the old part of the museum. At the far end of the square
The Musée Magritte is 8 Place du Grand stands the lovely church of
devoted to one of Belgium’s Sablon Notre-Dame du Sablon, built
most famous artists and a major @ 27, 48, 95. v 92, 93. q Louise,
in the Brabant Gothic style,
exponent of Surrealism, René Parc. and boasting
Magritte (1898–1967). Spread some glorious
over five floors, it is the world’s Located on the slope of the stained-glass
largest collection of his work escarpment that divides windows. On
and covers all periods of his Brussels in two, the Place du the opposite
life, from the dazzling early Grand Sablon is like a stepping side of the road
Cavernous period of the late stone between the upper and to the church is
1920s to the renowned Domain lower towns. The name “sablon” the Place du
of Arnheim (1962). derives from the French “sable” Petit Sablon.
(sand), and the square is so In contrast to
called because this old route the busy café
7 Palais Royal down to the city center once scene of the Notre-Dame du
Place des Palais. Tel 02-551 2020. @ passed through sandy marshes. larger square, Sablon window
27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95. v 92, 93. these pretty
q Trône, Parc. Open 10:30am–5pm formal gardens are a peaceful
Tue–Sun (last adm 4:30). Closed mid- spot to stop for a rest. Sit
Sep–mid-Jul. = 7 ∑ monarchie.be and admire the set of bronze
statues by Art Nouveau artist
The official home of the Belgian Paul Hankar, each representing
monarchy, this is one of the a different medieval guild of the
finest 19th-century buildings in city. At the back of the gardens
the Upper Town. Construction is a fountain, built to
began in the 1820s on the site commemorate Counts Egmont
of the old Coudenberg Palace. and Hoorn, the martyrs who led
Work continued under Léopold a Dutch uprising against the
II (reigned 1865–1909), when tyrannical rule of the Spanish
much of the exterior was under Philip II. On either side
completed. The most lavish of the fountain are 12 further
state reception rooms include statues of prominent 15th- and
the Throne Room, with 28 wall- 16th-century figures, including
mounted chandeliers, and the Terrace café on the upscale Place du Gerhard Mercator, the Flemish
Hall of Mirrors. The latter, similar Grand Sablon geographer and mapmaker.
The triumphal central archway and surrounding colonnades of the Parc du Cinquantenaire
Parliament (the other two are in 0 Parc du

9 European
Parliament Quarter
Strasbourg and Luxembourg). Cinquantenaire
This gleaming building has its
@ 12, 21, 22, 27, 34, 36, 54, 64, 79, 80. critics: the huge structure Avenue de Tervuren. @ 27, 28, 36, 80.
v 81, 82. q Schuman, Mérode.
q Maelbeek, Trône, Schuman. housing the hemicycle that
Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire:
seats the 750-plus MEPs has
Tel 02-741 7211. Open Tue–Sun.
The vast, modern steel-and- been dubbed “Les Caprices
Closed public hols. & =
glass complex located just des Dieux” (“Whims of the ∑ kmkg-mrah.be Musée Royal
behind the Quartier Léopold Gods”), which refers both to de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire:
train station is one of three the shape of the building, Tel 02-737 7811. Open Tue–Sun.
homes of the European similar to a French cheese Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7
of the same ∑ klm-mra.be Autoworld: Tel
name, and 02-736 4165. Open 10am–6pm daily
to its lofty (5pm in winter). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
aspirations.
The Parc The finest of Léopold II’s grand
Léopold, projects, the Parc and Palais du
next to the Cinquantenaire were built for
Parliament, has the Golden Jubilee celebrations
some notable of Belgian independence in
Art Nouveau 1880. The park was laid out on
buildings and unused marshland. The palace,
is a delightful at its entrance, was to comprise
Brussels’s European Parliament building known as spot for a walk a triumphal arch, based on the
“Les Caprices des Dieux” or a picnic. Arc de Triomphe in Paris (see
Brussels and the European Union

In 1958, following the signing of the Treaty of Rome in the previous year, the European Economic
Community (EEC), now the European Union (EU), was born, and Brussels became its headquarters.
Today, the city remains home to most of the EU’s
institutions. The European Commission, the EU
body that formulates policies, is based in the vast
Berlaymont building. The city is also one of the
seats of the European Parliament, which currently
has 751 members, known as MEPs (Members of
the European Parliament). The most powerful
institution is the Council of Ministers, composed
of representatives of each member state. Each
nation has a certain number of votes, according
to its size. The Council must approve all legislation
for the EU, often a difficult task to accomplish
given that most Europe-wide legislation will
not be to the liking of every state. The signing of the Treaty of Rome, 1957

BRUSSELS  223
p165), and two large exhibition w Bruparck

areas. By the time of the 1880
Art and Industry Exposition, Boulevard du Centenaire. Tel 02-474
8383. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7, 19, 51.
however, only the two side
q Heysel. Mini-Europe: Tel 02-474
exhibition areas had been
1313. Open daily. Closed Jan–mid-
completed. Further funds were Mar. & Océade: Tel 02-478 4944.
found, and work continued for Open weekends, public hols & school
50 years. The arch was hols. & 7 Kinepolis: Tel 02-474
completed in 1905. Until 1935, 2603. Open for performances only.
the large halls on either side of Atomium: Tel 02-475 4775. Open
the central archway were used daily. & 0 - = ∑ bruparck.
to hold trade fairs, before being com ∑ atomium.be
converted into museums.
Also known as the Musée du Located on the outskirts of the
Cinquantenaire, the excellent city, this theme park is popular
Musées Royaux d’Art et with families. The most visited
d’Histoire contain a vast array attraction is Mini-Europe, which
of exhibits. Sections on ancient has more than 300 miniature
civilizations cover Egypt, Greece, reconstructions (built at a scale
Persia, and the Near East. Other of 1:25) of Europe’s major sights,
displays feature Byzantium and Historic aircraft display at Musée Royal de from Athens’ Acropolis to
Islam, China and the Indian l’armée et d’Histoire Militaire London’s Houses of Parliament.
subcontinent, and the Pre- For movie fans, Kinepolis has
Columbian civilizations of the himself designed the house, 27 cinemas, including an
Americas. Decorative arts from between 1898 and 1901. The IMAX complex.
all ages include glassware, airy interior of the building If warmth and relaxation is
silverware, porcelain, lace, and displays trademarks of the required, Océade is a tropically
tapestries. There are also religious architect’s style – iron, glass, heated water park that features
sculptures and stained glass. and curves – in every detail, giant slides, wave machines, and
The Musée Royal de l’Armée while retaining a functional even artificial sandy beaches.
et d’Histoire Militaire deals approach. Most impressive are Towering over Bruparck is
with all aspects of Belgium’s the dining room, with its ornate Brussels’ most distinctive
military history. There are new ceiling featuring scrolled landmark, the Atomium.
sections on both World Wars, metalwork, and the central Designed by André Waterkeyn
as well as a separate hall staircase. Decorated with for the 1958 World’s Fair, and
containing historic aircraft. curved wrought iron, the stairs representing an iron crystal
Housed in the south wing are enhanced further by magnified 165 billion times, the
of the Cinquantenaire Palace, mirrors and glass, bringing structure has a viewing platform
Autoworld has one of the natural light into the house. and restaurant at the top.
best collections of classic
automobiles in the world.
Part formal gardens, part
tree-lined walks, the park
is popular with Brussels’s
Eurocrats and families at
lunchtimes and weekends.
q Musée Horta
Rue Américaine 23–25. Tel 02-543 0490.
@ 54. v 81, 82, 91. q Albert, Louise.
Open 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed
public hols. ∑ hortamuseum.be
Architect Victor Horta

(1861–1947) is considered
the father of Art Nouveau,
and his impact on Brussels’s
architecture is unrivaled by
any other designer of his time.
A museum dedicated to his
unique style is today housed
in his restored family home, in
the St. Gilles district. Horta The Atomium, rising 100 m (325 ft) over the Bruparck
cathedral are two triptychs by equipped with period furniture,

Antwerp’s most famous son, his studio, and the kunst-kamer,
Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640). or art gallery, where he exhibited
The narrow, winding streets of both his own and other artists’
the old town are lined with fine work and entertained friends
medieval guildhalls, such as the and wealthy patrons.
Vleeshuis, or Meat Hall, once
occupied by the Butchers’ Guild. E Koninklijk Museum voor
Dating from the early 16th Schone Kunsten
century, it is built in alternate Leopold de Waelplaats 1–9. Tel 03-224
stripes of stone and brick, giving it 9550. v 8. Closed for renovations
a streaky bacon-like appearance. until 2017.
When Rubens died in 1640, E Rubenshuis
he was buried in the family’s Wapper 9–11. Tel 03-201 1555.
chapel at the lovely sandstone @ 22, 25, 26. v 4, 7, 8, 10, 11.
Sint Jacobskerk (1491–1656), Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
also located in the old town. Closed public hols. & 7
One of the most prestigious
Bronze statue of Silvius Brabo in Antwerp’s of Antwerp’s many museums is
Grote Markt the Koninklijk Museum voor
3 Bruges
Schone Kunsten, which houses See pp226–8.
2 Antwerp an impressive collection of
* 500,000. k £ @ n 13 ancient and modern art. Works
Grote Markt (03-232 0103). from the 17th century include
∑ visitantwerpen.be masterpieces by the “Antwerp
Trio” of van Dyck (1599–1641),
In the Middle Ages, Antwerp Jordaens (1593–1678), and
was a thriving hub of the Rubens. More modern exhibits
European cloth trade, and the include works by the Surrealist
principal port of the Duchy of René Magritte (1898–1967)
Brabant. Today, it is the main city and Rik Wouters (1882–1916).
of Flemish-speaking Belgium, During renovations which will
and the center of the last until 2017, major works
international diamond trade. will be on display at various
At the heart of the city’s old locations across the city.
medieval district is the Grote Other museums of note are
Markt. The Brabo Fountain, at the Diamond Museum and the
its center, has a statue of the Museum Plantin-Moretus,
soldier Silvius Brabo, said to which is devoted to the early
be the nephew of Julius Caesar. years of printing and celebrates
The square is overlooked by the the achievements of Antwerp’s Stone gatehouse of Ghent’s medieval
ornately gabled Stadhuis (Town most successful printer, Het Gravensteen
Hall), built in 1564, and the Christopher Plantin.
Gothic Onze Lieve Vrouwe Rubenshuis was Rubens’ 4 Ghent
Kathedraal (Cathedral of Our home and studio for the last * 240,000. £ @ v n Sint-
Lady), which dates back to 1352. 30 years of his life. A tour takes Veerleplein 5 (09-266 5660).
Among the paintings inside the you around his living quarters, ∑ visitgent.be
The heart of Ghent’s historic

center was built in the 13th and
14th centuries, when the city
prospered as a result of the
cloth trade. The closure of vital
canal links in 1648, however,
led to a decline in the town’s
fortunes. In the 18th and 19th
centuries Ghent flourished again
as a major industrial center.
Dominating the old medieval
quarter is the imposing Het
Gravensteen, or Castle of the
Counts. Parts of the castle,
Jacob Jordaens’s joyous As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes (1638), in the Koninklijk once the seat of the Counts
Museum voor Schone Kunsten, Antwerp of Flanders, date back to the
night before the battle. Its

narrow rooms are packed with
curios alongside plans and
models of the battlefield.
The Musée de Cires (Wax-
work Museum) has models of
soldiers dressed in period
uniforms, while the Eglise
St-Joseph contains dozens of
memorial plaques to the British
soldiers who died at Waterloo.
For an excellent view over the
battlefield, head for the Butte
de Lion, a 45 m (148 ft) high
earthen mound, 3 km (2 miles)
The Pacification Hall in Ghent’s Stadhuis, with its impressive tiled floor south of the town. Next to it is a
gallery where Louis Demoulin’s
12th century, although most + Het Gravensteen fascinating circular painting
parts, including the gatehouse, Sint-Veerleplein. Tel 09-225 9306. Panorama de la Bataille is displayed.
were built later. Open 9am–5pm daily (Apr–Oct:
Many of Ghent’s finest historic 10am–6pm). & E Musée Wellington
buildings are found on Graslei, a E Museum voor Schone Kunsten Chaussée de Bruxelles 147. Tel 02-357
picturesque street that borders Citadelpark. Tel 09-240 0700. 2860. Open 10am–5pm daily. &
the Leie River. The street is lined Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
with well-preserved guildhalls &87
dating from the Middle Ages.
The magnificent St Baafs-
kathedraal has features
5 Waterloo
representing every phase of * 30,000. £ @ n Chaussée de
the Gothic style. In a small side Bruxelles 218 (02-352 0910).
chapel is one of Europe’s most ∑ waterloo-tourisme.com
remarkable paintings, Jan van
Eyck’s Adoration of the Mystic This small town is most famous
Lamb (1432). Opposite the for its association with the Battle
cathedral stands the huge of Waterloo, which saw Napoleon
14th-century Belfort (belfry). and his French army defeated by
From the top of the tower the Duke of Wellington’s troops
you can enjoy splendid views on June 18, 1815. The best place
of the city. From here, it is a to start a visit here is the Musée
short walk to the Stadhuis Wellington, which occupies the The Butte de Lion, viewed from the
(Town Hall), whose Pacification inn where Wellington stayed the battlefield of Waterloo
Hall was the site of the signing
of the Pacification of Ghent
(a declaration of the Low
The Battlefields of Belgium
Countries’ repudiation of Belgium’s strategic position between France and Germany has
Spanish rule) in 1576. long made it the battleground, or “cockpit,” of Europe. Napoleon’s
Ghent’s largest collection of defeat at Waterloo was just one of many major conflicts resolved
fine art, covering all periods on Belgian soil. In the early 18th century, French expansion under
up to the 20th century, is in Louis XIV was thwarted here, and more recently, Belgium witnessed
the Museum voor Schone some of the bloodiest trench warfare of World War I, including the
Kunsten, some 20 minutes’ introduction of poison gas at Ypres (Ieper). Today, there are several
walk southeast of the center. vast graveyards, where the tens of thousands of soldiers who died
on the Western Front lie buried.
There are works by Rubens
and his contemporaries Jacob
Jordaens and Anthony van
Dyck. Occupying an elegant
18th-century townhouse, the
Design Museum Gent is a
decorative-arts museum, with
lavishly furnished 17th-, 18th-,
and 19th-century period rooms.
An extension covers modern
design, from Art Nouveau to Aftermath of Passchendaele (Third Battle of Ypres), 1917
contemporary works.
3 Street by Street: Bruges

With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. The city owes its pre-eminent
position to the beauty of its historic center, where winding
lanes and picturesque canals are lined with splendid medieval
buildings. These are mostly the legacy of the town’s heyday as
a center of the international cloth trade, which flourished for
200 years from the 13th century. During this golden age,
Bruges’ merchants lavished their fortunes on fine mansions, RK
T
churches, and a set of civic buildings of such extravagance A
M
that they were the wonder of northern Europe. Today, the
streets are well maintained: there are no billboards or high-
rises, and traffic is heavily regulated.
T
A
A
R
T
S LOPPEMST G
N
R
The Dijver River E
A
U
R
A charming introduction to E B
A
T
E
T
S
SI
Bruges is provided by the boat D

U
STE
MO
trips along the city’s canals. O

VIN
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IN
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W
ST
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RA
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AT
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VAT
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A A
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Bus and
train stations
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

Dating from 1220, the Church of
Our Lady employs many styles of
architecture and contains a Madonna
and Child by Michelangelo.
Memling in Sint-Jans-
hospitaal Museum
This 12th-century
hospital operated until
1976. It contains a
well-preserved 15th-
century dispensary.
BRUGES  227
. The Markt VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Medieval gabled houses
line this 13th-century Practical Information
market square at the heart * 117,000.
of Bruges, which still holds ∑ bezoekers.brugge.be
a market each Saturday. n Markt 1 & t’ Zand 34, inside
Concertgebouw (050-44 46 46).
Oude Griffie, or Old
Recorder’s House Transport
£ Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein, Markt.
RG
BU
Blind Donkey Alley

This tiny alley leads
W
O
from the Burg to the

L
18th-century Vismarkt
L
E
(Fish Market).
S
I
T
G A
R
A
A
K
D
A
E
T
O
H
N
E
Z
O
R
Heilig Bloed
Basiliek
(see p228)
ER
V
IJ
D
Groeninge . Stadhuis
Museum One of the oldest and finest town halls
(see p228) in Belgium, this was built between
1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
restored Gothic hall is noted for its
The Arentshuis Museum 1385 vaulted ceiling.
has paintings by Frank
Brangwyn (1867–1956).
Key
Gruuthuse Museum Suggested route
(see p228)
The Belfort
0 meters 100 Built in the 13th century, the Belfort,
or Belfry, is a stunning octagonal
0 yards 100
tower where the city’s medieval
charter of rights is held.
E Groeninge Museum P Begijnhof

Dijver 12. Tel 050-44 8743. Open Wijngaardplein 1. Tel 050-33 0011.
9:30am–5pm (last adm: 4:30pm) Tue– Open daily. & (for Begijn House).
Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & Béguines were members of a lay
Bruges’ premier fine-art museum sisterhood founded in 1245,
holds a superb collection of early who did not take vows, but led
Flemish and Dutch masters. a devout life. The begijnhof, or
Artists featured include Rogier béguinage, is the walled
van der Weyden (c.1400–1464), complex in a town that housed
Jan van Eyck (d.1441), and Hans the Béguines. In Bruges, this is
Memling (c.1430–94). Van Eyck’s an area of quiet tree-lined
Virgin and Child with Canon canals edged by white, gabled
(1436), a richly detailed painting houses. Visitors can enjoy a stroll
noted for its realism, and here and visit the simple church,
Memling’s Moreel triptych (1484) built in 1602. One of the houses,
are among the museum’s most now occupied by Benedictine
outstanding exhibits. Painted in nuns, is open to the public.
the early 16th century, the Last
Judgment triptych is one of a E Houishbrouwerij de
number of works at the museum Halve Maan
by Hieronymous Bosch (c.1450– Walplein 26. Tel 050-44 4222. Open
1516). Peter Brueghel the 11am–4pm Sun–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat
Younger (1564–1638) is also well Panel of Hans Memling’s Moreel triptych in (Nov–Mar: to 3pm). 8 every hour,
represented. Later Belgian works the Groeninge Museum compulsory. & ∑ halvemaan.be
include paintings by Surrealists Before World War I, there were 31
Paul Delvaux (1897–1994) and porcelain, and ceramics to breweries in Bruges. This one has
René Magritte (1898–1967). medical instruments and been producing Straffe Hendrik
weaponry. The authentic since 1856. Here, you can follow
kitchen and beautiful oak- the beer-making process, from
paneled chapel (1472) transport the first hops to a taste of the
visitors back to medieval times. finished product in the small
bar. There are also good views
R Heilig Bloed Basiliek of Bruges from the oast room at
Burg 13. Tel 050-33 6792. Open daily. the top of the building.
Museum: Open daily. Closed Wed
(Nov–Mar). & (for museum). E Volkskundemuseum
The Basilica of the Holy Blood is Balstraat 43. Tel 050-44 8764.
Bruges’ holiest church, holding Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun.
one of the most sacred relics in This folk museum occupies an
Europe. In the upper chapel, attractive row of 17th-century
rebuilt after it was destroyed by brick almshouses in the northeast
Fifteenth-century oak-paneled chapel in the French in the 1790s, is a of the town. Each of the houses
the Gruuthuse Museum 17th-century tabernacle, which is dedicated to a different aspect
houses a phial said to contain a of traditional Flemish life. Several
E Gruuthuse Museum few drops of blood and water crafts are represented, and visitors
Dijver 17. Tel 050-44 8762. washed from the body of Christ are shown a series of typical
Closed for major renovation work by Joseph of Arimathea. historical domestic interiors.
until the end of 2017. &
This museum occupies a large
medieval mansion close to the
Dijver Canal. In the 15th century,
it was inhabited by a merchant
(the Lord of the Gruuthuse),
who had the right to levy a tax
on “gruit,” an imported mixture
of herbs added to barley during
the beer-brewing process. The
mansion’s labyrinthine rooms,
with their ancient chimney-
pieces and wooden beams,
have survived intact, and today
contain a collection of fine and
applied arts. The exhibits range
from wood carvings, tapestries, Pretty 17th-century almshouses, home to the Volkskundemuseum
6 Luxembourg Vianden
* 1,600. @ n 1a Rue du Vieux
One of Europe’s smallest sovereign states, the Grand Duchy of Marché (83 42 57). Château de
Luxembourg is often overlooked by travelers in Europe. The Vianden: Tel 83 41 08 1. Open Apr–
capital, Luxembourg City, is well known as a world center of Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct, Mar:
international finance, but behind the modern face of the city 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8
lies a rich history stretching back more than 1,000 years. The
northern half of the country boasts some spectacular scenery, Surrounded by medieval
especially the Ardennes, a region of dense forests, deep ramparts, Vianden, in the
valleys, and hilltop castles. Historic towns such as Vianden and Luxembourg Ardennes, is a
Echternach are good bases for exploring the countryside and popular tourist destination. The
main attraction is the 11th-
offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities. century Château de Vianden.
Its rooms feature a range of
architectural styles, from the
Romanesque to the Renaissance.
A cable car takes visitors to
the top of a nearby hill, giving
superb views of the castle.
Echternach
* 4,000. @ n 9–10 Parvis de la
Basilique (72 02 30). Abbey Basilica:
Open daily. Abbey Museum: Open
Apr, May & Oct: 10am–noon, 2–5pm
daily; Jun & Sep: 10am–noon, 2–6pm
daily; Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
∑ echternach-tourist.lu
Luxembourg City, with its aqueduct and hilltop historic center Located in Petite Suisse (Little
Switzerland), a picturesque
Luxembourg City Ducal has been the official royal region of wooded hills north-
* 92,000. k 6 km (4 miles) E. £ residence since 1890. The oldest east of the capital, Echternach
@ n 30 Place Guillaume II (22 28 parts of the building, which is dotted with fine medieval
09). ∑ lcto.lu used to be the town hall, date buildings, including the 15th-
from the latter half of the 16th century turreted town hall. The
Luxembourg City enjoys a century. Nearby, the Cathédrale star sight, however, is the
dramatic location, set atop Notre-Dame was begun in Benedictine abbey, founded by
hills and cliffs rising above the 1613. Inside is a fine Baroque St. Willibrord in the 7th century.
Alzette and Pétrusse valleys. The organ gallery by Daniel Muller. The crypt of the abbey basilica
town grew up around a castle Two museums worth visiting (c.900) contains some glorious
built on a rocky promontory, are the Musée National frescoes. There are good walks
known as the Rocher du Bock, d’Histoire et d’Art, which has and cycle routes in the
in AD 963. The castle was a good archaeological section surrounding countryside.
destroyed in the late 19th and a collection of ancient
century by the city’s inhabitants, and modern sculpture and
but some of the fortifications paintings, and the Musée de
have been preserved, most l’Histoire de la Ville de
famously the Bock and Pétrusse Luxembourg, which focuses
Casemates. These huge on the city’s historical past.
networks of underground
defensive galleries, which date + Casemates
back to the 17th century, not Bock Casemates: Montée de Clausen.
only provided shelter for Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm. &
thousands of soldiers, but also Pétrusse Casemates: Place de la
housed workshops, kitchens, Constitution. Open Easter, Whitsun, &
bakeries, and slaughterhouses. end May–mid-Sep: 11am–4pm. &
The Crypte Archéologique du E Musée National d’Histoire
Bock has displays and an et d’Art
audiovisual presentation on the Place Marché aux Poissons. Tel 47 93
history of the city’s fortifications. 301. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Medieval town hall in the Place du
Luxembourg City’s Palais Grand 87 Marché, Echternach
Practical & Travel Information it is inadvisable to wander alone

at night in the poorer areas to
Visitors to Belgium and Luxembourg can expect high levels the west and north of the city
of service and comfort in all aspects of their stay. Public center, or in the city’s parks,
transportation is clean and efficient, and there are abundant especially Botanique.
In case of emergencies, the
tourist-information facilities, in addition to all the other
numbers to call are listed in
modern conveniences one expects of a highly developed the Directory opposite.
country. Brussels and Luxembourg City are among the safest
capital cities in Europe, and can be easily explored on foot.
Language
The two principal languages
Tourist Information open from 10am until 5 or 6pm of Belgium are Dutch, spoken
In Belgium, the Visit Brussels Monday to Saturday, with some in Flanders, and French, the
Information Office publishes local shops closing for an hour language of the Wallonians.
maps and guides, and also offers at lunch. Some stores open at There is also a German-speaking
a Brussels Card. This “tourist noon on Mondays. In the major enclave in the far east of the
passport” includes one-, two-, or cities and towns, many stores country. In the capital, both
three-day passes to the Hop-on, are open on Sundays and until languages are used on all street
Hop-off buses in Brussels, later in the evening. signs and in place names.
combined with unlimited access In both countries, most Luxembourg has three
to 30 museums. This can be museums are closed on official languages: French,
bought online. A similar scheme Mondays. Outside the high German, and Letzeburgesch,
operates in Bruges, Antwerp, season (April to September), or Luxembourgeois. In both
and Ghent. be prepared to find many Belgium and Luxembourg,
Luxembourg’s National Tourist sights of interest closed. especially in the capital
Office offers the Luxembourg cities, many people speak
Card, which gives unlimited very good English.
travel on public transport nation- Visa Requirements
wide, as well as admission to Citizens of the EU, US, Australia,
more than 30 sites of interest, New Zealand, and Canada do Banking and Currency
and reductions on many others. not require a visa to enter either The currency in Belgium and
The card, valid for one, two, or Belgium or Luxembourg, but Luxembourg is the euro
three days, can be bought at must present a valid passport (see p23). All euro bills and coins
the City Tourist Office as well as and hold proof of onward are exchangeable in each of the
through the LNTO website and at passage (EU citizens need a participating Eurozone countries.
hotels, campsites, youth hostels, valid ID document). Bear in Banking hours are generally
and train and bus stations. mind that in Belgium it is a from 9am to 4pm Monday to
Local tourist information legal requirement to carry ID Friday in Belgium and 9am to
offices can be found in most on one’s person at all times. 4:30pm on weekdays in
towns and villages throughout Luxembourg. In both countries,
Belgium and Luxembourg. many of the banks close for an
Safety and Emergencies hour at lunchtime, and some
Belgium and Luxembourg are of the city branches open on
Opening Hours safe countries, with street crime Saturday mornings.
Most stores and businesses in against visitors a relatively rare
Belgium and Luxembourg are occurrence. However, in Brussels,
Communications
Belgian post offices are open
The Climate of Belgium from 9am to 5pm Monday to
BRUSSELS
and Luxembourg Friday. In Luxembourg, the
Belgium and Luxembourg hours are 9am to noon and
°C/ºF
have a temperate climate, 1:30pm to 5pm Monday to
characterized by constant 23/73 Friday. Some larger branches
low rainfall throughout the 14/57 15/60 open on Saturday mornings.
11/52
year. Winters are usually 5/41 6/43 4/39 Many public payphones
chilly and damp, and rain 0/32 in Belgium and Luxembourg
may turn to snow or sleet. 4.5 5.5 3.5 1.5 accept only phonecards,
Summers are warmer and hrs hrs hrs hrs available at newsagents and
much brighter, but the 57 94 82 67 post offices. In Brussels, you
evenings can still be cool. mm mm mm mm can use cash in the phone
Spring is the driest season. month Apr Jul Oct Jan booths at metro stations.
There are no local area
codes in Luxembourg.
Arriving by Air Rail Travel provides services in Wallonia.

Belgium’s principal airport is Belgium is at the heart of Europe’s Bus terminuses are usually
Brussels National Airport, high-speed train networks. close to train stations.
known locally as Zaventem. Eurostar services between Luxembourg benefits from an
Flights into Luxembourg Brussels’ Gare du Midi and extensive bus network, which
arrive at Findel Airport, which London’s St. Pancras station take compensates for the more
is 6 km (4 miles) east of around 2 hours. The Thalys limited railroad system. One-day
Luxembourg City. network links Brussels with passes are available, and can be
Airlines flying to Belgium Amsterdam, Paris, and Cologne. used on both long-distance and
and Luxembourg include Within Belgium, train services inner-city buses and trains from
Brussels Airlines (Belgium) are operated by Belgian the time of purchase until 8am
and Luxair (Luxembourg), National Railways (Société the next day. Benelux Tourrail
British Airways, bmi regional, Nationale de Chemins de Fer passes are valid on buses
KLM, and Lufthansa. Brussels Belges/Belgische Spoorwegen). operated by Chemins de Fer
is also served by Air Canada The network is modern and Luxembourgeois.
and Delta Air Lines. Most efficient, and usually the best
flights from Canada and the way to travel between major
US go via another European cities and towns. Luxembourg’s Traveling by Car
city. Ryanair has low-cost flights rail system is run by Chemins de Drivers from the UK can reach
between Brussels and various Fer Luxembourgeois (CFL). In mainland Europe by the car
European cities. both countries, a variety of train service offered by
train passes is available. The Eurotunnel. Within Belgium and
Benelux Tourrail pass allows Luxembourg, the freeways and
Arriving by Sea unlimited travel on any three main roads are well maintained
Belgium can be easily reached or five days within a month’s and fast. Variations between the
by ferry from Britain several period in Belgium, Luxembourg, French and Flemish spellings of
times daily. DFDS Seaways and the Netherlands. town names can be confusing;
has a number of crossings it is advisable to find out both
every day between Dover names of your destination
and Dunkirk. P&O Ferries Traveling by Bus before beginning your journey.
also operates regular ferry In Belgium, the two main long- All the major car-rental firms are
crossings from Dover to distance bus operators are De represented in Belgium and
Calais (France) and from Lijn, which covers routes in Luxembourg, but renting a
Hull to Zeebrugge. Flanders, and TEC, which vehicle is fairly expensive.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies Luxembourg Rail Travel
Belgium UK (Belgium) Police Tel 113. Belgian National
Grand Place 1, 1000 Ave d’Auderghem 10, All other services Tel 112. Railways
Brussels. Tel 02-513 8940. B-1040 Brussels. Tel 02-528 2828.
∑ visitbelgium.com Tel 02-287 6211. Airlines ∑ belgianrail.be
Luxembourg UK (Luxembourg) Chemins de Fer
5 Blvd Joseph II, L-1840
Brussels Airlines
City Office, Luxembourgeois
Luxembourg City. Tel 090-251 600 (Belgium).
Place Guillaume II, Tel 24 89 24 89. ∑ cfl.lu
Luxembourg City. Tel 22 98 64. Tel 0905-609 5609 (UK).
Tel 42 82 82 10. US (Belgium) Tel 866-308 2230 (US). Eurostar
∑ visitluxembourg.com Blvd du Régent 27, Tel 070-79 79 79 (Belgium).
∑ brusselsairlines.com
B-1000 Brussels. Tel 08432-186 186 (UK).
UK
Tel 02-811 4000. Luxair ∑ eurostar.com
Belgian Tourist Office
Tel 020-7537 1132. US (Luxembourg) Tel 0352-2456 4242 Thalys
Tel 0800-954 5245. 22 Blvd Emmanuel (Luxembourg). ∑ luxair.lu Tel 70 66 77 88 (Belgium).
∑ belgiumtheplaceto. Servais, L-2535 ∑ thalys.com
be Luxembourg City. Ferry Companies
Luxembourg Tourist Office. Tel 46 01 23. Buses
∑ visitluxembourg.com DFDS Seaways
Emergency Tel 0871-574 7235 (UK).
De Lijn
US Numbers Tel 070-220 200.
Belgian Tourist Office ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk ∑ delijn.be
Tel 212-758 8130. Belgium
Police Tel 101. P&O Ferries TEC
Luxembourg Tourist
Office Ambulance and Fire Tel 0800 130 0030 (UK). Tel 01-023 5353.
∑ visitluxembourg.com Department Tel 100. ∑ poferries.com ∑ infotec.be
Shopping & Entertainment Brussells’ famous Marché aux

Puces is held daily on the Place
Belgium is an ideal place to shop for luxury goods, from fine du Jeu de Balle, though the
chocolates and cutting-edge fashion to mounted diamonds. biggest assortment of items
As a virtually duty-free zone, Luxembourg attracts tourists in can be found on Sundays.
search of cheap cigarettes and alcohol. For relatively small
cities, Brussels and Luxembourg City offer a wide range of Bookstores
cultural events. Those who prefer outdoor activities will find In Brussels, Waterstones sells
plenty to entertain them. The flat Flanders region in Belgium English-language magazines
is ideal cycling country, while the hilly Ardennes and the and books. For international
Petite Suisse area of Luxembourg are popular with hikers. newspapers, go to the Librairie
Louis d’Or or Sterling Books.
English-language books and
newspapers can be bought in
Where to Shop a fall in the number of people Luxembourg City at Chapter 1.
For luxury items and gifts, one entering the trade in recent
of Brussels’ best shopping years has resulted in a shortage
arcades is the Galéries Saint- of authentic, handmade goods. Entertainment Listings
Hubert. It houses several Before purchasing an item, The principal sources of
jewelry stores, the Belgian make sure it has not been entertainment information
leather-bag maker Delvaux, manufactured in the Far East. in Belgium are The Bulletin,
fine chocolate stores, and Places to shop for authentic published weekly online, and
smart boutiques. The Galéries Belgian lace include Maison F. the Agenda listings magazine.
d’Ixelles is full of tiny ethnic Rubbrecht in Brussels and the Details of events in
shops and cafés, while the Kant Centrum in Bruges. The Luxembourg are available
quaint Galérie Bortier is the latter also has a museum of online via the www.visit
place to shop for antiquarian lace-making. luxembourg.com website.
books and maps. Specialty Belgian beers can be
Top fashion designers are bought at Brussels’ Beer Mania,
well represented in Brussels. while Little Nemo and Utopia Opera, Classical Music,
Their outlets can be found on specialize in comic-strip and Dance
Avenue Louise and Boulevard memorabilia. If you plan to Brussels’ Opera House, La
de Waterloo. For the original invest in diamonds, or simply Monnaie, is among Europe’s
creations of the Antwerp Six wish to gaze and admire, finest venues for opera. The
and of new-wave designers, Diamondland in Antwerp is a season runs from September
try Rue Antoine Dansaert. good place to start. through June, and most
Less expensive, mainstream Among the best buys in productions are sold out many
stores, including Belgium’s Luxembourg are fuel, tobacco, months in advance.
only department store, Inno, and alcohol, due to the low rate Designed by Victor Horta in
are located in the Rue Neuve. of duty imposed on such goods. 1928, the Palais des Beaux-Arts
Inno is not spectacular by One of the country’s most is home to the Belgian National
British or American standards. famous manufacturing names Orchestra and boasts the city’s
The principal shopping areas is Villeroy & Boch, makers of largest auditorium for classical
in Luxembourg City are the fine porcelain and tableware. music. The main concert season
Grand Rue and its side streets, Their flagship store is in the lasts from September to June.
and the Auchan shopping center, Rue du Fossé in the capital. Regular performances of
which is found on Kirchberg. There is also a factory outlet contemporary dance take place
northwest of the city center at the Art Deco Kaaitheater and
where you can buy seconds the Halles de Schaerbeek.
What to Buy at a 20 percent discount. Luxembourg’s Printemps
Belgian chocolate is considered Musical is a festival of classical
by many to be the finest in the music concerts and ballet
world. Among the internationally Markets that takes place in the capital
renowned “grandes maisons de From 9am on Saturdays and throughout April and May.
chocolat,” with stores in Brussels, Sundays, Brussels’ Place du Principal venues include the
are Godiva and Wittamer. The Grand Sablon is the site of a fine Conservatoire de Musique
sweet-toothed will also be antiques market. Also worth de la Ville de Luxembourg
tempted by the edible visiting is the huge, vibrant and the Grand Théâtre de
chocolate sculptures produced market around the Gare du Midi Luxembourg. The City Tourist
by Pierre Marcolini and by the (Sundays, 6am to 1pm), with its Information Office on the Place
wares of fine-biscuit specialist mix of North African and home- d’Armes is able to provide more
Dandoy. Another famous grown delicacies, including oils, information and assist with
Belgian export is lace, though spices, and exotic herbs. ticket reservations.
Jazz, Rock, and Blues blockbusters and major British consult the Rando-Vélo or
One of the best places to catch and French releases. Real movie Fietsroute cycling websites.
good jazz acts in Brussels is fans should not miss a visit to Tourist offices in Belgium and
Sounds, a large venue featuring the Musée du Cinéma in the Luxembourg also offer walking
some of Belgium’s top artists. Palais des Beaux-Arts complex. guides and maps. To arrange
The club also has Blues nights. The museum shows classic hiking tours in the Ardennes
On Saturday and Sunday films, from Chaplin to Tarantino, area, contact Belgium-based
afternoons, it is worth stopping with nightly programs of silent Europ’Aventure.
at L’Archiduc, a refurbished movies sometimes with a live- In Luxembourg, the lake at
Art Deco bar in the center of piano accompaniment. Echternach offers plenty of
town, where you can listen to opportunities for swimming,
jazz in a relaxed atmosphere. sailing, and windsurfing, while
Ancienne Belgique hosts Outdoor Activities the rivers of the Ardennes region
up-and-coming guitar bands, Belgium and Luxembourg have are fine territory for canoeing
folk, Latin, and techno acts. extensive networks of cycle and kayaking. For further infor-
tracks, and you can rent bicycles mation on the latter, contact the
easily from a number of outlets, Fédération Luxembourgeoise
Cinema including many train stations. For de Canoë-Kayak. For infor-
At Brussels’ Bruparck (see p223), route details, the best source of mation on the whole range of
the 27-screen Kinepolis cinema information is the local tourist sporting activities available,
complex shows Hollywood information office. Alternatively, contact the City Tourist Office.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Maison F. Rubbrecht Waterstones Jazz, Rock,
Arcades Grand Place 23, Brussels. Boulevard Adolphe Max and Blues
Tel 02-512 0218. 71, Brussels.
Galérie Bortier Tel 02-219 2708. Ancienne Belgique
Rue de la Madeleine 55, Pierre Marcolini Boulevard Anspach 110,
Brussels. Rue des Minimes 1, Opera, Classical Brussels.
Brussels. Music and Dance Tel 02-548 2484.
Galéries d’Ixelles ∑ abconcerts.be
Tel 02-514 1206.
Chaussée d’Ixelles, Conservatoire de
Brussels. Utopia L’Archiduc
Musique de la Ville de
Rue Antoine Dansaert 6,
Galéries Saint-Hubert
Rue du Midi 39, Brussels. Luxembourg
Brussels.
Tel 02-514 0826. 33 Rue Charles Martel,
Rue des Bouchers, Tel 02-512 0652.
Luxembourg City.
Brussels. Villeroy & Boch ∑ archiduc.net
Tel 47 96 55 55.
2 Rue du Fossé, Sounds
Specialty Items Luxembourg City. Grand Théâtre de
Rue de la Tulipe 28,
Tel 46 33 43. Luxembourg
Beer Mania Brussels.
1 Rond-Point Robert
Chaussée de Wavre 330 Rue Rollingergrund, Tel 02-512 9250.
Schuman, Luxembourg
174–176, Brussels. Luxembourg City. ∑ soundsjazzclub.be
City. Tel 47 96 39 00.
Tel 02-512 1788. Tel 46 82 12 78.
Halles de Schaerbeek Outdoor
Dandoy Wittamer Rue Royale Sainte-Marie Activities
Rue au Beurre 31, Place du Grand Sablon 6, 22a, Brussels.
Brussels. 12–13 Brussels. Tel 02-218 2107. Europ’Aventure
Tel 02-540 2702. Tel 02-512 3742. ∑ halles.be
Tel 061-688 611 (Belgium).
∑ europaventure.be
∑ wittamer.com
Diamondland Kaaitheater
Square Sainteclette 20, Fédération
Appelmansstraat 33A,
Bookstores Brussels.
Luxembourgeoise
Antwerp.
Tel 01-201 5959.
de Canöe-Kayak
Tel 03-369 0780. Chapter 1 3 Route d’Arlon,
∑ kaaitheater.be
Godiva 42 Rue Astrid, L-8009, Strassen.
Grand Place 22, Luxembourg City. La Monnaie Tel 75 35 61 57.
Brussels. Tel 44 07 09. Place de la Monnaie, ∑ flck.lu
Tel 02-511 2537. Brussels.
Librairie Louis d’Or Fietsroute
Tel 02-229 1211.
Kant Centrum Rue du Bailli 54, Brussels. ∑ fietsroute.org
∑ lamonnaie.be
Balstraat 16, Bruges. Tel 02-640 6432. Luxembourg City
Tel 050-33 00 72.
Palais des Beaux-Arts
Sterling Books Tourist Office
Rue Ravenstein 23,
Little Nemo Rue du Fossé aux Loups Tel 22 28 09. ∑ lcto.lu
Brussels.
Boulevard Lemmonier 25, 23, Brussels. Tel 02-507 8200. Rando-Vélo
Brussels. Tel 02-514 6804. Tel 02-223 6223. ∑ bozar.be ∑ randovelo.org
234  BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Rest of Belgium Prices are based on one night’s stay in
ANTWERP: Hotel
Rubens – Grote Markt €€ € up to €100
Luxury €€ €100 to €260
€€€ over €260
Oude Beurs 29, 2000
Tel 03-222 4848
∑ hotelrubensantwerp.be
A well-presented four-star hotel, Luxembourg
with a note of individuality owing
to its medieval lookout tower. BERDORF: Le Bisdorff €€
Luxury
BOUILLON: Panorama Hôtel €€ an der Heesbech 39, 6551
Modern Tel 79 02 08
Rue au-dessus de la Ville 25, 6830 ∑ hotel-bisdorff.lu
Tel 061-46 61 38 Old-fashioned hotel-restaurant
∑ panoramahotel.be surrounded by a garden. Guests
Impeccably furnished family-run enjoy an indoor pool and sauna.
A suite extending over two floors at Le hotel-restaurant with lovely views
Place d’Armes Hotel, in Luxembourg City over Bouillon and the castle. LUXEMBOURG CITY:
Belappart Studio Hotel €
Budget
DK Choice
Brussels Rue du Fort Neipperg 69, 2230
BRUGES: Alegria €€ Tel 23 60 45 1
LOWER TOWN: Modern ∑ belappart.lu
Scandic Grand Place € Sint-Jakobsstraat 34, 8000 Small, modern apartment
Budget Map C2 Tel 050-33 09 37 accommodation, for both short
Rue d’Arenberg 18, 1000 ∑ alegria-hotel.com and long stays.
Tel 02-548 1811 Utterly charming family-run
∑ scandichotels.com guesthouse, close to the Markt,
Centrally located and surprisingly the main square in Bruges. Each DK Choice
well-appointed good-value hotel. of the well-equipped rooms LUXEMBOURG CITY:
has been thematically styled; Le Place d’Armes Hotel €€€
some overlook the garden Boutique
DK Choice to the rear. The owners offer Place d’Armes 18, 1136
LOWER TOWN: Amigo €€€ excellent advice about what to Tel 27 47 37
Luxury Map C3 do and where to eat. A good ∑ hotel-leplacedarmes.com
Rue de l’Amigo 23–27,1000 complimentary breakfast is Located on the central square,
Tel 02-547 4747 served in the garden room. this five-star hotel is beautifully
∑ roccofortehotels.com designed, blending the historic
This five-star hotel provides – original fireplaces and beamed
supreme comfort, attention GHENT: Sandton Grand ceilings – with the modern. The
to detail, and polished service, Hotel Reylof €€ Cristallerie Restaurant and Le
where every client is treated Luxury Café de Paris (a bristo with a
as a cherished guest. Located Hoogstraat 36, 9000 wine bar), could dissuade
close to the Grand Place, this Tel 09-235 4070 guests from ever venturing out.
is the hotel of choice for ∑ sandton.eu Pampering luxury alongside
movie stars and presidents. Affordable luxury at this centrally impeccable service.
located hotel with well-
appointed rooms, a spa, a good
UPPER TOWN: Rembrandt restaurant, and excellent service. REMICH: Hôtel des Vignes €€
Hotel € Modern
Budget LEUVEN: Martin’s Klooster €€ Route de Mondorf 29, 5552
Rue de la Concorde 42, 1050 Boutique Tel 23 69 91 49
Tel 02-512 7139 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwstraat 18, 3000 ∑ hotel-vignes.lu
∑ hotelrembrandt.be Tel 01-621 3141 A polished hotel-restaurant set
A small and friendly guesthouse ∑ martinshotels.com amid vineyards, with views out
with great charm and loads of Spacious suites and rooms with onto the Moselle river.
individual character. a stylish touch in a renovated
16th-century monastery. VIANDEN: Hotel Heintz €
UPPER TOWN: Boutique
Odette en Ville €€€ LIÈGE: Crowne Plaza €€€ Grande-Rue 55, 9401
Boutique Luxury Tel 83 41 55
25 Rue du Châtelain, 1050 Mont Saint-Martin 9–11, 4000 ∑ hotel-heintz.lu
Tel 02-640 2626 Tel 04-222 9494 Well-established hotel with the
∑ chez-odette.com ∑ ihg.com feel of an Alpine lodge. South-
Located in the trendy Châtelain This stylish modern hotel is facing rooms have balconies and
area of Ixelles, Odette oozes retro attached to the grand old palace views of the castle ramparts; others
style and has a fêted restaurant. of the Sélys Longchamps family. face the gardens or old town.

Price Guide
DK Choice
Brussels Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, including a half-bottle of
KNOKKE-HEIST: Sel Gris €€€
house wine, tax and service.
LOWER TOWN: Belga Queen €€ Belgian
Belgian Map C3 Zeedijk 314, 8301 € under €40
€€ €40 to €70
Rue Fossé aux Loups 32, 1000 Tel 050-51 4937 Closed Wed &
€€€ over €70
Tel 02-217 2187 Thu
A splendidly theatrical restaurant This superb seafront restaurant,
in an imaginatively transformed a key player in the Belgian
19th-century bank. The refined culinary landscape, is run by Luxembourg
cuisine has a Belgian slant. There Frederik Deceuninck, who was
is also an oyster bar. awarded his first Michelin star BOURGLINSTER: La Distillerie €€
in 2008. Plaice, mackerel, skate, French
UPPER TOWN: La scallops, sole, lobster, and other Rue du Château 8, 6162
Canne en Ville €€ North Sea treasures all feature Tel 78 78 78 1 Closed Mon & Tue;
French in the exquisite dishes, which Wed lunch; Sun dinner
Rue de la Réforme 22, 1050 are presented like edible This renowned gourmet
Tel 02-347 2926 Closed Sat works of art. restaurant benefits from its
lunch; Sun magical setting in a medieval
Delightful eatery in a converted castle. There is also a more down-
butcher’s shop, with attractive KRUISHOUTEM: Hof van to-earth, but equally high-quality,
terrace seating in summer. A Cleve €€€ brasserie called Côté Cour.
good option before or after Belgian
visiting the nearby Musée Horta. Riemegemstraat 1, 9770
Tel 09-383 5848 Closed Sun & DK Choice
Mon; Tue lunch LUXEMBOURG CITY:
Peter Goossens’s celebrated Clairefontaine €€€
Rest of Belgium three-star Michelin restaurant is French
housed in a pretty collection of Place de Clairefontaine 9, 1341
ANTWERP: Het Pomphuis €€ farm buildings, surrounded by Tel 46 22 11 Closed Sat & Sun
Belgian/French a tranquil countryside. One of the top addresses in
Droogdok, Siberiastraat 7, 2030 the heart of Luxembourg City,
Tel 03-770 8625 LEUVEN: Domus € Clairefontaine is a culinary
Housed in a 20th-century pump Brasserie experience that is not to be
house, this exhilarating eatery Tiensestraat 8, 3000 missed. Arnaud and Edwige
retains much of the original Tel 016-20 1449 Closed Mon Magnier offer exquisite French
machinery. It serves French- A traditional tavern supplied cuisine for gourmands in classic
Belgian fare with an Asian twist. by its own brewery next door. and sophisticated environs.
Enjoy snacks and pub food, such The five-course gourmet menu
ANTWERP: Zuiderterras €€ as pasta, salads, steaks, and is an unforgettable treat for a
Belgian/French pancakes. Breakfast available, too. special occasion.
Ernest van Dijckkaai 37, 2000
Tel 03-234 1275 TOURNAI: Giverny €€€
A pier leads out to this restaurant, Belgian/French WORMELDANGE: Mathes €€
which boasts unparalleled views Quai du Marché au Poisson 6, 7500 Belgian/French
of the Schelde river’s estuary. Tel 069-22 4464 Closed Mon, Tue; Route du Vin 37, 5401
On the menu is a wide range Sat lunch; Sun dinner Tel 76 01 06 Closed Mon & Tue
of French and Belgian classics. High-quality French and Belgian Housed in a mansion by the
Also open for breakfast. cuisine, with touches of fusion, is river Moselle in picturesque Ahn,
beautifully presented in a 19th- Mathes offers a menu that
BRUGES: Restaurant de Bühne € century baroque setting. Expect combines local specialties and
Belgian/French to see sashimi and curry spices good-quality French cuisine,
Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat 6, 8000 alongside waterzooi of lobster. including seafood from Brittany.
Tel 05-034 6649 Closed Mon & Tue
A charming restaurant serving
very good fish, fresh quiches and
pastries, and vegetarian options,
such as pumpkin soup. Try the
homemade fruit tarts for dessert.
GHENT: Brasserie Pakhuis €€

International
Schuurkenstraat 4, 9000
Tel 09-223 5555 Closed Sun
This converted warehouse full of
pizzazz is the place for French-
style brasserie fare, with twists
such as pigeon with Hokkaido
pumpkin, and Japanese fusion
dishes, plus a few Belgian classics. The magnificent interior of Belga Queen, housed in a former bank in Brussels
THE NETHERLANDS
Situated at the mouth of the Rhine River, the Netherlands is a man-made
country that owes its life to the sea: much of the land once lay under water, and
a maritime trading tradition was the principal source of the nation’s wealth,
most notably in the 17th century. The Netherlands is also one of the world’s
most liberal countries, with a long history of cultural and racial tolerance.
The shape of the Netherlands (or Holland, are all in the west of the country and part
as it is also known) has changed dramatically of the urban conglomeration known as
over the last 2,000 years. Medieval maps the Randstad.
show nearly half of the country under
water, but since then, large areas have History
been reclaimed from the sea; the current Between the 4th and 8th centuries, after
shoreline is maintained by a drainage the collapse of the Roman Empire, the
system of windmills, dykes, and canals. area corresponding to present-day
With just under 17 million people in just Holland was conquered by the Franks.
41,547 sq km (16,041 sq miles) of land, it is As with all the Low Countries, it was later
the third most densely populated country ruled by the House of Burgundy, before
in Europe (after Monaco and Malta), but passing into the hands of the Habsburgs.
this is barely perceptible to the visitor. Only When the Habsburg Empire was divided
when arriving by plane do you see how in 1555, the region came under the
much of the area is still covered with water, control of the Spanish branch of the
and how little precious land remains. The family, which caused the Dutch Revolt
orderly Dutch cities and towns never seem of 1568, led by William I of Orange. The
overcrowded, but homes are often small, Dutch Republic was finally established
with steep, narrow staircases and modest in 1579, with the Treaty of Utrecht, but it
gardens. Given the fragility of their took until 1648 for the Spanish officially
environment, it is understandable that the to recognize its sovereignty.
Dutch are so good at preserving it. The battle for independence and the
The three biggest cities – Amsterdam, need for wealth to fight the Spanish
the capital, Rotterdam, the industrial hub, armies stimulated trading success
and the Hague, the seat of government – overseas. The Dutch colonized much of
Skating on a frozen Dutch river, flanked by drainage windmills

A familiar Amsterdam sight of bicycles parked on the bridges that span the canal
Indonesia and established a profitable occupation in 1914, the Nazi invasion of

empire based on spice. The Dutch East 1940 left lasting scars on the nation. In
India Company thrived, and in the New the 1960s, the country became a haven
World, Holland briefly ruled for the hippy counter-
over large parts of Brazil. culture, an influence
Tulip bulbs were imported which is still visible today.
from Turkey and cultivated
behind the dunes, thus Language and Culture
beginning a lucrative flower Dutch, or Netherlandic,
industry that still flourishes is a Germanic language
today. However, war with which derives from the
England radically trimmed speech of the Western
Dutch sea-power by the end Franks. A number of dialects
of the 17th century, and are spoken, and in Friesland
from then on, the country’s the dialect (Fries) has Celtic
fortunes waned. In 1795, influences. Nevertheless, as
French troops ousted in so many European
William I of Orange (1533–84), leader of the
William V of Orange, and in Dutch Revolt countries, the dialects are
1813, with the retreat of disappearing due to the
Napoleon, the Netherlands united popularity of national television stations
with Belgium, its neighbor, an on which a standardized version of Dutch
arrangement which lasted for 17 years. is usually spoken.
The Netherlands remained neutral in Culturally, Holland has a huge amount to
both World Wars, and although it escaped offer. Its rich history is reflected in countless
old buildings and its large number of fine
KEY DATES IN DUTCH HISTORY museum collections. The compact size of
the city centers makes it easy to stroll
300–700 Region ruled by the Franks
along a canal admiring gabled houses, and
1419 Philip the Good of Burgundy begins to unify the
Low Countries step into a museum for an hour or two,
1482 The Netherlands pass by marriage to the before ending the day at a nearby café or
Austrian Habsburgs pub. The Dutch also have much to boast in
1555 Philip II of Spain inherits the Netherlands the realm of the performing arts, so visitors
1568 The Dutch Revolt ends Spanish rule should find time to enjoy one of the world-
1579 The northern districts unite, forming the famous orchestras or modern-dance
Republic of the United Netherlands
companies, or attend an organ concert in
1602 The Dutch East India Company founded
an old church, or simply spend an evening
1606–69 Life of Rembrandt
in one of Amsterdam’s jazz clubs or rock-
1648 Spain recognizes Dutch independence
and-pop venues.
1794–1813 The Napoleonic era brings the
Netherlands under French control A fiercely independent people, the Dutch
1914–18 Holland is neutral during World War I have long been champions of freedom,
1940–45 The country is occupied by Germany and have a traditional tolerance of
1949 The Dutch East Indies gain independence, minorities. Jews have been welcome for
becoming Indonesia centuries, and although Catholicism was
1957 The Netherlands joins the European Community banned after independence, the
1980 Princess Beatrix becomes Queen authorities turned a blind eye to its
2000 Parliament legalizes controlled euthanasia practise. Today, that tolerance is extended
2002 The euro replaces the Dutch guilder to asylum seekers, gays and lesbians, and
2010 Rise of right-wing politician Geert Wilders people of different backgrounds. A respect
2013 Queen Beatrice abdicates; Willem-Alexander is for the right to live one’s own life underlies
crowned king
the liberal laws on prostitution and drugs.
THE NETHERLANDS  239
Exploring the Netherlands The Netherlands

Although the Netherlands’ seat of government is at See main map
The Hague, Amsterdam is the nominal capital, and it is Groningen
here that the main cultural attractions can be found.
The folkloric villages of Marken and Volendam are only a NETHERLANDS
short drive away, as are the towns of Alkmaar, famous for
its traditional cheese market, Haarlem, with its nearby AMSTERDAM
Enschede
bulbfields, and Utrecht, with its medieval churches. The
Hague
The port of Rotterdam, the pottery center of Delft, and Rotterdam
GERMANY
the university town of Leiden lie to the south and west. Eindhoven
Antwerp
Sights at a Glance Cologne
B E L G I U M
1 Amsterdam pp240–51
7 Leiden
2 Marken and Volendam 0 km 90
8 The Hague
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1 Amsterdam
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AMSTERDAM  241
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Getting Around
The most useful tram routes for tourists are lines 1, 2, 4, 5,
9, and 16, which go south from Centraal Station and branch
out to all the main sights. Lines 13, 14, and 17 lead west to
Jordaan. Bus 22 serves Nemo and the Scheepvaartmuseum,
which you cannot reach by tram. A canalbus service runs
from the Singelgracht to Centraal Station, stopping at the Houseboats on Prinsengracht, in
major landmarks. Amsterdam’s western canal ring

paintings and statues

were destroyed follow-
ing the Alteration in 1578,
the delicate15th-
century vault paintings
on the gilded ceiling
escaped damage. In
1755, the paintings
were hidden with layers
of blue paint and were
not revealed until 200
years later, in 1955. The
Oude Kerk’s stained-
glass windows were also
undamaged in the
ransackings of the late
16th century. The Lady
Chapel, which dates The parlor in Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder
from 1552, contains
some of the best stained Solder (Our Lord in the Attic).
glass. The magnificent After the Alteration, when
oak-encased Great Amsterdam officially became
The Oude Kerk, a calm and peaceful haven at the heart Organ, the work of Protestant, many such hidden
of the Red Light District Christian Vater, was churches sprang up around the
added to the church in city. Built in 1663, the one here
1 Oude Kerk 1724. Restoration work on the served the Catholic community
Oudekerksplein 23. Tel 020-625 8284.
organ continues until late 2017. until 1887, when the nearby St.
v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily (Sun: pm Nicolaaskerk was completed.
Above the mock-marble altar is
only). Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25. 2 Museum Ons’
5 11am Sun. & - 7 Jacob de Wit’s glorious painting
∑ oudekerk.nl Lieve Heer op The Baptism of Christ (1716). The
Solder tiny box bedroom where the
The origins of the Oude Kerk (Old resident priest slept is hidden
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38. Tel 020-
Church) go back to the early off a bend in the stairs.
624 6604. v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily
13th century, when a wooden (Sun and public hols: pm only). Closed The building became a
church was built on a burial Apr 27. & 8 - ∑ opsolder.nl museum in 1888, and today
ground on a sand bank. The contains elegantly refurbished
present Gothic structure is 14th Tucked away on the edge of the rooms, as well as a fine collec-
century, and has grown from a Red Light District is a restored tion of church silver, religious
single-aisled church into a 17th-century canal house, with artifacts, and paintings. Restored
basilica. As it expanded, the two smaller houses to the rear. to its former opulence, the parlor,
building became a gathering The combined upper floors with its magnificent fireplace, is
place for traders and a refuge for conceal a Catholic church, a splendid example of a living
the poor. Though many of its known as Ons’ Lieve Heer op room in the Dutch Classical
style of the 17th century. Entry
to the museum is through the
house next door, where a
cloakroom, café, and temporary
exhibitions are found.
3 Red Light District

v 4, 9, 14, 16, 24.
Prostitution in Amsterdam dates

back to the city’s emergence as
a port in the 13th century. By
1478, it had become so wide-
spread that attempts were
made to contain it. Prostitutes
straying outside their designated
area were marched back to the
The Death of the Virgin Mary by Dirk Crabeth, one of three restored stained-glass windows sound of pipe and drum. A
in the Oude Kerk’s Lady Chapel century later, the Calvinists tried
AMSTERDAM  243
to outlaw the practise, but their

attempts were half-hearted, and
by the mid-17th century, pro-
stitution was openly tolerated.
In 1850, Amsterdam had a
population of 200,000 and a total
of 200 brothels, most of which
catered for rich clients.
Today, the Red Light District,
known locally as de Walletjes
(the little walls), is centered
around the Oude Kerk. The area
is crisscrossed by a network of
tiny lanes lined with garish sex
shops and seedy clubs. At night,
the little alleys assume a sinister
aspect, and it is not wise to
wander around alone, but by
day, hordes of visitors generate Interior of the Grote Synagoge, part of the Joods Historisch Museum
a festive atmosphere, and there
are interesting restaurants, bars, 5 Joods Historisch At first restricted to working in
and cafés, and beautiful canal-
side houses. The council is cam-
Museum certain trades, the Ashkenazi
Jews were granted full civil
paigning to make the area safer Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1. Tel 020-531 equality in 1796. Their
and culturally more attractive. 0310. q Waterlooplein. v 9, 14. synagogues were
4 Nationale Opera & Ballet. Open
central to Jewish life
daily. Closed Apr 27, Yom Kippur,
in Amsterdam until
4 Museum Het Jewish New Year. & 8 on request.
the devastation
Rembrandthuis 7 - ∑ jhm.nl
caused by the Nazi
Jodenbreestraat 4. Tel 020-520 0400. This complex of four occupation of World
q Nieuwmarkt. v 9, 14. Open daily. synagogues was built in War II, which left
Closed Apr 27, Dec 25. & 8 = the 17th and 18th centuries them empty. The
∑ rembrandthuis.nl by the Ashkenazi Jews, who buildings were
arrived in Amsterdam from restored in the
Born in Leiden, Rembrandt eastern Europe in the 1630s. 1980s and
(1606–69) worked and taught in connected by
this house from 1639 until 1656. internal walkways.
He lived in the ground-floor In 1987, they
rooms with his wife, Saskia, opened as a
who died here in 1658, museum
leaving the artist with a dedicated to
baby son, Titus. Many of Jewish culture and
the artist’s most famous the history of Judaism
paintings were created in the Netherlands.
in the first-floor studio, The impressive
which, along with the Grote Synagoge, 18th-century
other rooms in the with its bright and Torah scroll finial
house, has been airy interior, was
restored and refurbished designed by Elias
to show exactly how it Bouman and first opened in
looked in the 17th 1671. Next door is the Nieuwe
century. On display is an Synagoge (New Synagogue),
excellent selection of built in 1752. It is dominated by
Rembrandt’s etchings the wooden Holy Ark (1791),
and drawings, including which came from a synagogue
various self-portraits in Enkhuizen.
showing the artist in Religious art and artifacts on
different moods and display include Hanukah lamps,
guises. There are also Torah mantles, and scroll finials.
landscapes, nude The buildings were renovated in
studies, and religious 2006; a print room was created
pieces, as well as in the basement and a children’s
temporary exhibitions The house where Rembrandt lived and worked in the museum on the upper floor in
of other artists’ works. mid-17th century the former Obbene Shul.
6 Nieuwe Kerk
Dam. Tel 020-638 6909. v 1, 2, 4, 5
& many others. Open daily during
exhibitions; see website for details.
& 7 - = ∑ nieuwekerk.nl
Dating from the late 14th

century, Amsterdam’s second
parish church was built as the
population outgrew the Oude
Kerk (see p242). During its
turbulent history, the Nieuwe
Kerk (New Church) has been
destroyed by fire, rebuilt, and
then stripped of its treasures
after the Alteration of 1578,
when the Calvinists took civil
power. It eventually reached its The splendid Classical facade of the 17th-century Koninklijk Paleis
present size in the 1650s.
Albert Vinckenbrinck’s The Classical design by Jacob historical museum. Today,
flamboyant carved pulpit (1664) van Campen (1595–1657) some of the museum’s
is the focal point of the church reflects the city’s mood of exhibitions also focus on
interior, reflecting the Protestant confidence after the Dutch contemporary Amsterdam.
belief that the sermon is central victory. Civic pride is also shown At the core of the collection
to worship. Other notable in the allegorical sculptures by is a 45-minute historical tour
features include Jacob van Artus Quellien (1609–68), which of the city called “Amsterdam
Campen’s ornate Great Organ decorate the pediments, and DNA.” This explores Amsterdam’s
(1645) and, in the apse, the tomb in François Hemony’s statues four main characteristics: spirit of
of the famous 17th-century and carillon. enterprise, freedom of thought,
commander-in-chief of the Inside, the full magnificence civic virtue, and creativity. Key
Dutch Navy, Admiral de Ruyter of the architecture is best moments from the city’s history
(1607–76), by Rombout Verhulst. appreciated in the huge are explored chronologically,
Burgerzaal (Citizens’ Hall). Based and there are displays featuring
on the assembly halls touch-sensitive multimedia
of ancient Rome, screens showing animations
this 29 m (95 ft) and film footage.
high room runs the Also contributing to the
length of the building, museum’s detailed account of
and boasts a superb Amsterdam’s history are such
marble floor, as well fascinating items as a globe
as epic sculptures belonging to the famous
Rombout Verhulst’s memorial to Michiel de Ruyter in the by Quellien. Most of cartographer Willem Blaeu and
apse of the Nieuwe Kerk the furniture on a 1648 model of the Koninklijk
display dates from Paleis, designed by Jacob van
7 Koninklijk Paleis 1808, when Louis Bonaparte Campen (1595–1657).
took over the building as his Amsterdam’s wealth from
Dam. Tel 020-620 4060. v 1, 2, 4, 5
& many others. Open usually Tue–Sun royal palace. trade attracted many artists,
(daily Jul–Sep) but check website for who chronicled the era in great
detail. There are paintings of the
latest information. Closed public 8 Amsterdam
hols and when King in residence. city and the port, as well as
& 8 check website. 7 Museum portraits of both prominent and
∑ paleisamsterdam.nl Kalverstraat 92, St. Luciensteeg 27. ordinary citizens. The paintings
Tel 020-523 1822. v 1, 2, 4, 5, 9 & of anatomy lessons include one
The Koninklijk Paleis, still used many others. Open daily. Closed Apr by Rembrandt, The Anatomy
occasionally by the Dutch royal 27, Dec 25. & 8 7 - = Lesson of Dr. Jan Deijman (1656).
family for official functions, was ∑ amsterdammuseum.nl This shows the dissection of
built as the Stadhuis (Town “Black Jan,” a convicted criminal
Hall). Work began on this vast The convent of St. Lucien who had been hanged.
sandstone edifice in 1648, after was turned into a civic In the Civic Guards’ Gallery,
the end of the 80 Years’ War orphanage in the latter half contemporary group portraits
with Spain. It dominated its of the 16th century. The hang between their 17th-
surroundings, and more than original red-brick convent was century counterparts,
13,600 piles were driven into enlarged over the years, and emphasizing Amsterdam’s
the ground for the foundations. in 1975 it opened as the city’s cultural diversity.
AMSTERDAM  245
Dominating the gallery is one for lodgings within the 0 Anne Frank House
of the museum’s most extra- complex, these worthy women
Prinsengracht 267. Tel 020-556 7105.
ordinary exhibits: a 17th- undertook to educate the poor v 13, 14, 17. 4 Prinsengracht.
century 5.30-m (17-ft) statue and look after the sick. Open daily (Jan 1 & Dec 25: pm only).
of Goliath (c.1650). Children Although none of the earliest Closed Yom Kippur. &
can experience life in a 17th- dwellings survives, the rows of ∑ annefrank.org
century orphanage in the beautiful houses that overlook
“Little Orphanage” the Begijnhof’s well-kept green For two years during World
exhibition. include Amsterdam’s oldest War II, the Frank and Van Pels
surviving house, Het Houten families, both Jewish, hid here
Huis, at No. 34. Dating from the until their betrayal to the Nazis.
second half of the 15th century, The 13-year-old Anne began
it is one of only two wooden- her famous diary in July 1942.
fronted houses in the city, since First published in 1947 as Het
timber buildings were banned Achterhuis (The Annex), and
in 1521 after a series of catastro- since translated into dozens
phic fires. On a wall directly of languages, the journal gives
behind No. 34 is a collection of a moving account of growing
fascinating stone plaques, up under persecution, and of
illustrating biblical themes. life in confinement. Anne
The southern side of the made her last entry in August
square is dominated by the 1944, three days before her
Engelse Kerk (English family was arrested.
Church), which dates Visitors climb to the
from the 15th second floor where
century and retains an introductory
its original video is shown. You
medieval tower. then enter the
The church was annex where the
confiscated after families hid via the
the Alteration and revolving bookcase
rented to a group of that concealed its
Statue of Goliath (c.1650) in the English and Scottish entrance. The rooms
Amsterdam Museum Presbyterians in are now empty,
1607. Directly Family photograph of except for the
9 Begijnhof opposite is the Anne Frank (1929–45) posters in Anne’s
Spui (entrance at Gedempte Begijnhof Chapel room and Otto
Begijnensloot). v 1, 2, 5, 9, (Nos. 29–30), a well-preserved Frank’s model of the annex as
14, 16, 24. Open daily. hidden church, where the it was during the occupation.
∑ begijnhofamsterdam.nl Begijntjes worshipped in secret The house also has exhibitions
until religious tolerance was on World War II and anti-
The Begijnhof was built in 1346 restored in 1795. Tour groups Semitism. Try to arrive early
as a sanctuary for the Begijntjes, are not permitted in the or late in the day as the
a lay Catholic sisterhood who Begijnhof and the occupants museum gets very crowded.
lived like nuns, although they request that noise should be Buy tickets via the Internet
took no monastic vows. In return kept to a minimum. to avoid the queues.
Attractive gabled houses and central green of Amsterdam’s Begijnhof, which is still occupied by single women
leads to its courtyard merchants, and politicians who

is decorated with began building houses here in
splendid blue and the 1660s. Most of the opulent
white tiles. mansions have been turned
The 85-m (272-ft) into offices or banks, but their
high tower of the elegance gives an insight into the
Westerkerk soars lifestyle of the earliest residents.
above Jordaan’s Two of the finest and best-
streets, and gives preserved buildings are No. 412,
panoramic views of designed by Philips Vingboons in
the city. Begun in 1664, and No. 475, with its two
1620, the church sculpted female figures over the
has the largest front door. Built in 1730, the
nave of any Dutch latter is an example of the
Protestant church. Louis XIV style, which became
Historically a poor popular in the 18th century. The
area, the Jordaan Kattenkabinet (Cat Museum), at
now has a trendy and No. 497, is one of the few houses
bohemian air, with on the Golden Bend accessible
quirky stores selling to the public. It is worth a visit
anything from for its unusual collection of
designer clothes to feline artifacts. Also on view here
old sinks, art galleries, are some splendid paintings by
and lively brown Jacob de Wit (1695–1754) and
cafés and bars spilling an attractive formal garden.
The Westerkerk, designed by Hendrick de Keyser, onto the sidewalks A multimedia exhibition at
overlooking the Prinsengracht in Jordaan during the summer. Het Grachtenhuis, a mansion
on Herengracht, illustrates
q Jordaan
w Golden Bend Hendrick Staets’ plans for the
v 13, 14, 17. Grachtengordel (see below).
v 1, 2, 5, 16, 24. Kattenkabinet:
The Jordaan grew up at the Tel 020-626 9040. Open 10am–5pm
Mon–Fri; pm Sat & Sun. Closed public
same time that Amsterdam’s
hols. Het Grachtenhuis:
Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) was ∑ hetgrachtenhuis.nl
being developed in the first half
of the 17th century. The marshy The most impressive canalside
area to the west of the more architecture in the city can be
fashionable canals was set aside seen along the section of the
as an area for workers whose Herengracht between Leidestraat
industries were banned from and Vijzelstraat. This stretch of
the town center. Its network of canal is known as the Golden
narrow streets and waterways Bend because of the great Ornate capital from the facade of
followed the course of old wealth of the shipbuilders, a building on the Golden Bend
paths and drainage ditches.
Immigrants fleeing religious
persecution also settled here. It is The Grachtengordel
thought that Huguenot refugees Faced with a rapidly growing population at the beginning of
called the district jardin (garden), the 17th century, Amsterdam’s town planner, Hendrick Staets,
later corrupted to “Jordaan.” formed an ambitious project
Flowing through the heart of to quadruple the size of the
the district are the tranquil tree- city. In 1614, work began on
lined canals known as the cutting three new residential
Egelantiersgracht and the canals, collectively known as
Bloemgracht. The canalside the Grachtengordel (Canal
residences of the Egelantiers- Ring), to encircle the existing
city. Built for the wealthiest
gracht were originally settled by
citizens, the grand houses
artisans, while the Bloemgracht
along the Keizersgracht
was a center for dye and paint (Emperor’s Canal), Herengracht
manufacture. One of the most (Gentleman’s Canal), and
charming spots along the Prinsengracht (Prince’s Canal)
Egelantiersgracht is St. represent Amsterdam’s finest
Andrieshofje, at Nos. 107–114. architecture, and are a testimony
This hofje (almshouse) was built to the city’s Golden Age.
in 1617 and the passage that
AMSTERDAM  247
r Het Scheep-
vaartmuseum
Kattenburgerplein 1. Tel 020-523
2222. @ 22. 4 Oosterdok,
Kattenburgergracht. Open daily.
Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25. & 7
∑ hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
Once the arsenal of the Dutch

Navy, this vast Classical
sandstone edifice was built in
1656. It is supported by 2,300
piles driven into the bed of the
Oosterdok. The Navy stayed
here until 1973, when the
building was converted into the
National Maritime Museum, Seals basking in a pool at the Artis zoo
Seeing the world through a soap bubble holding the largest collection complex in Plantage
at Nemo of boats in the world.
One of the museum’s finest of green parkland beyond the
e Nemo exhibits is a 17-m (54-ft) long city wall, where 17th-century
gilded barge, made in 1818 for Amsterdammers spent their
Oosterdok 2. Tel 020-531 3233.
@ 22. Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
King William I. Another major leisure time. Though much of
(daily May–Aug). Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
attraction is a full-size model the greenery has gone, there is
Dec 25. & 7 ∑ e-nemo.nl of a Dutch East Indiaman, the still a lot to see and do here.
Amsterdam. During the 16th The area is dominated by
In June 1997, Holland’s national century, the Dutch East India Artis, a zoo complex
science center moved to this Company used such vessels to founded in 1838, which has
curved building that protrudes sail to China, Japan, and Indon- more than 5,000 animal
30 m (99 ft) over the water. esia. The museum has a court species, a planetarium, and
Divided into five themed zones with a magnificent glass ceiling. an excellent aquarium.
(Interactivity, Technology, Nearby, the Hortus
Energy, Science, and Humanity), Botanicus Amsterdam has
which are updated every three t Plantage humble roots as it began as
years, the center presents a small apothecaries’ herb
v 9, 14. Artis: Plantage Kerklaan
technological innovations in garden in 1682 and now
38–40. Tel 0900-278 4796. Open daily.
a way that allows visitors’ & 8 7 Hortus Botanicus contains one of the world’s
creativity full expression. You Amsterdam: Plantage Middenlaan 2. largest botanical collections.
can interact with virtual reality, Tel 020-625 9021. Open daily. Plantage has a strong Jewish
operate the latest industrial Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 tradition, and many monuments
equipment under expert Hollandsche Schouwburg: Plantage commemorate Jewish history in
supervision, harness science Middenlaan 24. Tel 020-531 0310. Amsterdam. The Hollandsche
to produce a work of art, Open daily. Closed Rosh Hashanah Schouwburg is a somber
participate in countless games, (Jewish New Year), Yom Kippur. 7 memorial to the 104,000 Dutch
experiments, demonstrations, Jewish victims of World War II.
and workshops, and take in a The name Plantage dates from
variety of lectures and films. the time when it was an area
y Hermitage
Amsterdam
Amstel 51. Tel 020-530 8755. v 4, 9,
14. Open daily. Closed Apr 27, Dec 25.
& 8 7 0 - ∑ hermitage.nl
This branch of the State

Hermitage Museum in St.
Petersburg is housed in the
vast Amstelhof, a former old-
people’s home. Opened in
2004, this satellite museum
displays temporary exhibitions
drawn from the rich St.
Petersburg collections.
The venue is now one of
The Dutch East Indiaman Amsterdam, moored in front of the Scheepvaartmuseum Amsterdam’s major museums.
u Rijksmuseum
The Rijksmuseum is a familiar Amsterdam landmark. It Third floor
possesses an unrivaled collection of about 1 million artworks,
8,000 of which are on display, arranged chronologically in
80 galleries. The museum opened in 1885 to criticism from
Amsterdam’s Protestant community for its Catholic Neo-
Renaissance style. The main building, designed by P.J.H.
Cuypers, underwent
extensive renovation
for ten years and
reopened in 2013.
Winter Landscape with

Skaters (1618)
Mute painter Hendrick
Avercamp specialized in
intricate icy winter scenes.
. The Kitchen Maid

(1658)
The light falling through
the window and the Second floor
stillness of this domestic
scene are typical of Jan
Vermeer’s style. First floor
The Neo-Renaissance
facade of Cuypers’
building is red brick
with elaborate
decoration, including
colored tiles.
Gallery Guide
The entrance to the main building is
through the Atrium. The collection
explores 800 years of Dutch history
through paintings, sculpture, applied
arts, and historical objects. Artworks
are shown side by side, underlining
contrasts and connections. A
pavilion between the main building
and the Philips Wing houses the
Asiatic collection. The Philips Wing
has a café and restaurant on the
ground level, and a floor devoted
to temporary exhibitions.
Key to Floorplan
1100–1600
1600–1700
1700–1800
1800–1900 . St. Elizabeth’s Day Flood (1500)
1900–2000 An unknown artist painted this altar
piece, which shows a disastrous flood in
Asian Pavillion
1421. The dykes protecting Dordrecht
Special Collections were breached, and 22 villages were
Nonexhibition space swept away by the flood water.
AMSTERDAM  249
Museumstraat 1.
Tel 020-674 7000.
∑ rijksmuseum.nl
Open 9am–5pm daily.
&870-=
Transport
v 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12.
. The Night Watch (1642) 4 Stadhouderskade.
The showpiece of Dutch
17th-century art, this vast canvas by
Rembrandt was commissioned
as a group portrait of an
Amsterdam militia company.
St. Catherine (c.1465)

This sculpture by the Master of
Koudewater shows the saint
Gallery of
stamping on Emperor
Honour Maxentius, who allegedly
killed her with his sword.
Asian
Pavilion
Cuypers Jan Steen’s symbolic Woman at her Toilet, painted

Library around 1660
Genre Painting
For the contemporaries of Jan Steen
(1625–79), this cosy everyday scene
was full of symbols that are obscure to
the modern viewer. The dog on the
pillow may represent fidelity, and the
red stockings the woman’s sexuality;
she is probably a prostitute. Such
genre paintings were often raunchy,
but nearly always had a moral twist –
domestic scenes by artists such as ter
Borch and Honthorst were symbolic of
brothels, while other works illustrated
proverbs. Symbols like candles or skulls
indicated mortality.
Auditorium
Exploring the Rijksmuseum 1800–1900

The Rijksmuseum is too vast to be seen in a single visit. If time The 19th-century collection
is limited, start with the incomparable 17th-century Dutch features works by the Hague
paintings, taking in Rembrandt, Frans Hals, Vermeer, and many School, a group of Dutch
artists who came together in
other Old Masters. The collection of Asiatic artifacts is equally
around 1870 in Den Haag.
wonderful, and a tour of the special-collections section also Their landscape work captures
provides a rewarding experience. The gardens, redesigned the atmospheric quality of
according to Cuypers’ original plans, are also well worth a look. subdued Dutch sunlight.
Look out for Anton Mauve’s
and The Woman Reading Morning Ride on the Beach
a Letter (1662). Of several (1876) and the beautiful
portraits by Frans Hals Polder landscape, View near
(1580–1666), the best- the Geestbrug, by Hendrik
known are The Wedding Weissenbruch (1824–1903).
Portrait and The Merry
Drinker (1630). The
Windmill at Wijk by 1900–2000
Jacob van Ruisdael Below the rafters is a series of
(1628–82) is a great rooms devoted to 20th-century
landscape by an artist art and design. Highlights in
at the height of his this section include a white
career. Other artists version of Gerrit Rietveld’s
whose works contribute iconic red-and-blue armchair
to this unforgettable (1923), Karel Appel’s imposing
The heavily ornamented Neo-Gothic collection include oil painting The Square Man
building, Rijksmuseum Pieter Saenredam (1951), and an F.K.23 Bantam
(1597–1665), Jan van biplane from 1918.
de Capelle (c.1624–79), and
1100–1600 Jan Steen (see p249).
Displayed alongside Flemish Asiatic Art
and Italian art are religious Rewards of the Dutch imperial
works by Netherlandish 1700–1800 trading past are on show in this
painters, such as The Seven Portraiture and still lifes continued section. Some of the earliest
Works of Charity (1504) by to dominate 18th-century Dutch artifacts are the most unusual:
the Master of Alkmaar, Jan painting. The evocative Still Life tiny bronze Tang-dynasty
van Scorel’s Mary Magdalene with Flowers and Fruit by Jan van figurines from 7th-century
(1528), and Lucas van Leyden’s Huysum (1682–1749) stands out China, and granite rock carvings
triptych, Adoration of the among works on display here. from Java (c.8th century). Later
Golden Calf (1530). Other 18th-century artists exhibits include Chinese
represented are Adriaan van parchment paintings, inlaid
der Werff (1659–1722) and Korean boxes, and decorative
1650–1700 Cornelis Troost (1696–1750). Vietnamese dishes.
The 17th century was a golden
age for Dutch art. By this time,
religious themes in art had
been replaced by secular
subjects, such as realistic
portraiture, landscapes, still
lifes, seascapes, domestic
interiors, and animal portraits.
The most famous artist of
this era is Rembrandt, whose
works here include Portrait of
Titus in a Monk’s Habit (1660),
Self-Portrait as the Apostle Paul
(1661), and The Jewish Bride
(1663), as well as the brilliant
The Night Watch (see p249).
Also not to be missed are Jan
Vermeer’s (1632–75) serenely
light-filled interiors, such as
The Kitchen Maid (see p248) The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt (1606–69)
AMSTERDAM  251
the national museum of

modern art, showing works
by well-known names such as
Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, and
Monet. Constantly changing
exhibitions reflect the latest
developments not only in
painting and sculpture, but
also in printing, drawing,
photography, video, and
industrial design.
Among the museum’s best
collections are works by the
Dutch painter Mondriaan
(1872–1944). One of the
founding members of De Stijl
(The Style) – an artistic
The Bedroom, painted during Van Gogh’s stay in Arles, France movement which espoused
clarity and simplicity –
i Van Gogh museum’s collection. Famous Mondriaan went on to produce
Museum works include The Potato Eaters many abstract geometrical
(1885), from the artist’s Dutch compositions, such as
Museumplein 6. Tel 020-570 5200.
v 2, 3, 5, 12. Open daily. period, The Bedroom (1888), Composition in Red, Black,
Closed Jan 1. & 7 9 - = painted to celebrate his achieve- Blue, Yellow, and Grey.
∑ vangoghmuseum.com ment of domestic stability in Other artists represented
the Yellow House in Arles, and in the exhibitions include the
Vincent Van Gogh (1853–90), Vase with Sunflowers (1889). One American photographer Man
born in Zundert, began of Van Gogh’s last paintings is Ray (1890–1977), the Russian
painting in 1880. He worked in the dramatic Wheatfield and Kazimir Malevich (1878–1935),
the Netherlands for five years, Crows (1890). The menacing founder of the abstract
before moving to Paris, crows and violence of movement Suprematism,
and then settling at the sky show the and the Swiss sculptor Jean
Arles (see pp192–3) in depth of the artist’s Tinguely (1925–91), who
the south of France mental anguish in created humorous sculptures
in February 1888. the last few weeks from junk and recycled metal.
There he painted before his death. Reopened in 2012 after a
more than 200 In addition to Van renovation program, the
canvases in 15 Gogh’s works, the museum now features a
months. During his museum displays spectacular annexe (known as
time in France, paintings by artists ”the bathtub”) for temporary
however, Van Gogh who influenced, or exhibitions. The terrace offers
suffered recurrent were influenced by, great views of Museumplein.
nervous crises, Vincent Van Gogh him, as well as works
hallucinations, and in 1871 by his friends and
depression. After a colleagues, such as
fierce argument with the French Gauguin and Toulouse-Lautrec.
artist Gauguin, he cut off part of
his own ear and his mental
o Stedelijk
instability forced him into an
asylum. Van Gogh’s final years Museum
were characterized by Museumplein 10. Tel 020-573 2911.
tremendous bursts of activity. v 2, 3, 5, 12. Open 10am–6pm daily
During the last 70 days of his (to 10pm Thu). & 7 0 - =
life he painted 70 canvases. In ∑ stedelijk.nl
July 1890 he shot himself and
died two days later. He was on The Stedelijk Museum was
the verge of being acclaimed. designed to hold a personal
Van Gogh’s younger brother collection bequeathed to the
Theo, an art dealer, amassed a city in 1890 by art connoisseur
collection of 200 of his Sophia de Bruyn. It is housed in
paintings and 500 drawings. a late 19th-century Neoclassical
These, together with around building, adorned with statues
850 letters written by the artist of famous artists and architects. Statue of 16th-century artist Pieter Aertsen
to Theo, form the core of the In 1938, the museum became on the Stedelijk’s facade
a visit. The walls of the hotel’s

café are covered with works by
late 19th-century artists who,
came here to paint the town.
3 Alkmaar
* 94,000. £ n Waaggebouw,
Waagplein 2–3 (072-5114 284).
( cheese market: Apr–1st Fri in Sep:
10am–12:30pm Fri.
∑ vvvhartvannoordholland.nl
Alkmaar is one of the few Dutch

A typical 17th-century gabled timber house towns to maintain its traditional
in Marken cheese market, which has
been held here since medieval
2 Marken and
times. Every Friday morning in
Volendam summer, local producers lay out The soaring pipes of the famous organ in
Marken: * 2,000. @ 4 Volendam: Gouda and Edam cheeses in Haarlem’s Grote Kerk
* 21,000. @ n Zeestraat 37 (0299- the Waagplein, and from
363747). ( Sat. ∑ vvv-volendam.nl here, porters sporting colorful 4 Haarlem
straw hats take them off on * 147,000. £ n Grote Markt 2
Located on the shores of the sledges for weighing at the (023) 531 7325). ( Mon, Fri & Sat.
Marker Meer, and less than an Waaggebouw (Weigh House). _ Haarlem Jazz Festival (mid-Aug).
hour’s drive from Amsterdam, This imposing building, altered
Marken and Volendam are in 1582 from a 14th-century Haarlem is the center of the
extremely popular with tourists, chapel, also houses the Het Dutch printing, pharma-
who are drawn to their old-world Hollands Kaasmuseum, where ceutical, and bulb-growing
character. In spite of the crowds, local cheese-making techniques industries. Most of the city’s
it is worth spending a few hours are explained. main attractions are within
exploring their narrow streets Alkmaar’s vast Gothic church, easy walking distance of the
and canals, lined, as they are, the Grote Kerk, was completed Grote Markt, a lively square
with attractive 17th-century in 1520 and contains the tomb overlooked by the Gothic
gabled timber houses. You may of Floris V, Count of Holland. The Grote Kerk. Also known as Sint
even spot the local inhabitants nave is dominated by the 17th- Bavo’s, this huge church was
wearing traditional dress. century organ, designed by built between 1400 and 1550.
Places to look out for include Jacob van Campen and painted Its highly decorative organ
the Marker Museum in Marken, by Cesar van Everdingen. (1735) has been played by
which consists of six historical both Handel and Mozart.
houses. One of the houses is E Het Hollands Kaasmuseum Also on the Grote Markt, the
furnished as a traditional Waaggebouw, Waagplein 2. Tel 072- Stadhuis (Town Hall) dates
fisherman’s dwelling. 5155 516. Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat; from 1250 and displays a
Volendam’s Spaander Hotel, Nov–Mar: Sat. & 7 mixture of architectural
at No. 15 Haven, is also worth ∑ kaasmuseum.nl styles. The oldest part of the
building is the beamed
medieval banqueting hall of
the counts of Holland.
The Amsterdamse Poort, the
medieval gateway that once
formed part of the city’s
defenses, was built in 1355.
Haarlem is well known for
its hofjes (almshouses), which
began to appear in the 16th
century. Established in 1610, St.
Elisabeth’s Gasthuis now houses
a historical museum. The Frans
Hals Museum occupies the
almshouse where the famous
artist (1582–1666) supposedly
lived out his last years. In
addition to a superb collection of
Porters carrying cheeses at Alkmaar’s traditional market paintings by Hals himself, there is
a selection of Dutch paintings

and applied art dating from the
Bulbfields of the Netherlands
16th and 17th centuries. Bulb species cultivated in the Netherlands include lilies, gladioli,
daffodils, hyacinths, irises, crocuses, and dahlias. The most famous
E Frans Hals Museum bulb of all, however, is the tulip.
Groot Heiligland 62. Tel 023-5115 775. Originally from Turkey, it was first
Open Tue–Sat, pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, grown in Dutch soil by Carolus
Dec 25. & 8 7 = Clusius in 1593. Occupying a
30 km (19 mile) strip between
Haarlem and Leiden, the
5 Paleis Het Loo Bloembollenstreek is the most
important bulb-growing area in
Koninklijk Park 1, Apeldoorn. Tel 055- the country. From late January,
577 2400. £ to Apeldoorn, then bus the polders bloom with brightly
10, 16, or 202. Open Tue–Sun. colored bulbs, building to a
Closed Jan 1. & 8 7 0 climax in mid-April when the
∑ paleishetloo.nl tulips flower. For a breathtaking
showcase of flowering bulbs,
Stadholder William III built Het visit the Keukenhof gardens, on
Loo in 1686 as a royal hunting the outskirts of Lisse and easily
lodge. Generations of the House reached by bus from Leiden
of Orange used the lodge as a station or Schiphol Airport
summer palace, which came to A blanket of color, formed by tulips in (Stationsweg Lisse; Tel: 0252-
be regarded as the “Versailles of the Bloembollenstreek 465 555; www.keukenhof.nl).
the Netherlands.” The building’s
Classical facade belies the
opulence of the interior. Among first places in the Netherlands to art, with works by Van Gogh,
the most lavish apartments are embrace Christianity, and in the Courbet, and Damien Hirst, as
the Royal Bedroom of William III Middle Ages, it grew into an well as sculpture, costume, and
(1713), with its wall coverings and important religious center. The furniture collections.
draperies of rich orange damask city retains many of its medieval
and blue silk, and the Old Dining churches and monasteries. E Museum Catharijneconvent
Room (1686). In the latter half of The Domkerk, Utrecht’s Lange Nieuwstraat 38. Tel 030-2313
the 20th century, Het Loo’s cathedral, was begun in 1254. 835. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Apr 27.
beautiful formal gardens were Today, only the north and south & - 7 = ∑ catharijne
recreated from old plans. transepts, two chapels, and the convent.nl
choir remain, along with the E Centraal Museum
15th-century cloisters and a Agnietenstraat 1. Tel 030-2362 362.
chapterhouse. The Domtoren, Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
which stands apart from the Dec 25. & 9 =
cathedral, is one of the tallest ∑ centraalmuseum.nl
towers in the Netherlands, at
112 m (367 ft). Completed in
1382, on the site of the small
8th-century church of St.
Willibrord, it affords magnificent
views of the city.
Among Utrecht’s many
museums are the Museum
Catharijneconvent, which deals
with the troubled history of
religion in the Netherlands
The sumptuously decorated Royal Bedroom and owns an award-winning
of Stadholder William III collection of medieval art, and
the Nederlands Spoorweg-
museum, a superb railroad
6 Utrecht museum, housed in the restored
* 234,000. £ @ n Domplein 9 19th-century Maliebaan station.
(0900-236 000). ( Wed & Sat. At the heart of the collection at
∑ visit-utrecht.com the Centraal Museum is a series
of portraits by artist Jan van
Utrecht was founded by the Scorel (1495–1562), known as
Romans in AD 47 to protect a the “Utrecht Caravaggisti.” There
strategic river crossing on the is also an impressive collection Utrecht’s massive Gothic Domtoren, which
Rhine. The town was one of the of modern and contemporary dominates the city
7 Leiden
* 119,000. £ @ n Stationsweg
41 (071-516 600). ( Wed, Sat.
∑ leiden.nl
Leiden is a prosperous town

that dates back to Roman times.
Its famous university is the
oldest in the Netherlands,
founded in 1575 by William of
Orange. Created in 1587, the
university’s botanical garden,
the Hortus Botanicus der
Rijksuniversiteit Leiden, is
still open to the public. Hortus Botanicus, the tranquil botanical gardens of Leiden University
One of Leiden’s main attrac-
tions is the Rijksmuseum van E Rijksmuseum van Oudheden dining hall of Count Floris V, is
Oudheden (National Museum Rapenburg 28. Tel 071-5163 163. Open open to the public when
of Antiquities). Established in Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Oct 3, parliament is not in session.
1818, the museum houses an Dec 25. & 7 - = ∑ rmo.nl An outstanding collection
outstanding collection of E Museum Volkenkunde of works by Dutch Masters
Egyptian artifacts, including the Steenstraat 1. Tel 071-5168 800. Open Rembrandt, Jan Vermeer,
1st-century AD Temple of Taffeh. Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, May 5, and Jan Steen is assembled
There are also displays of textiles, Oct 3, Dec 25. & = 7 ∑ mv.nl in the Royal Picture Gallery
musical instruments, Etruscan at the Mauritshuis. More Dutch
bronze-work, and fragments of Golden Age paintings are on
Roman mosaics and frescoes. 8 The Hague view at the Museum Bredius
The magnificent Gothic * 497,000. £ @ n Spui 68 (070- and the Galerij Prins Willem V.
Pieterskerk was built in the 361 8860). ( Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat. The Haags Gemeente
15th century. Its interior is ∑ denhaag.com museum has an applied-arts
rather austere, but there is section that includes the
a splendid organ (1642), The political capital of the world’s largest collection of
enclosed in gilded woodwork. Netherlands, The Hague (Den paintings by De Stijl (see p251)
Dating back to 1640, the old Haag or ’s-Gravenhage) is home artist Piet Mondrian.
Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) now houses to prestigious institutions, such Formerly called Het Oude
the Stedelijk Museum De as the Dutch parliament and the Hof (the Old Court), the Paleis
Lakenhal, with exhibitions of International Court of Justice. Noordeinde is a splendid
art and furniture from the 16th When The Hague became 17th-century palace built in
century onward. The pride of the the seat of government in the Classical style. It is the office
collection is Lucas van Leyden’s 1586, it was a small town built of King Willem-Alexander.
Renaissance triptych, The Last around the castle of the counts
Judgment (1526–7). Leiden also of Holland. That same castle, P Ridderzaal
has an excellent ethnological much rebuilt, stands at the Binnenhof 8a. Tel 070-757 0200.
museum, the Museum Volken heart of the city, and forms Open guided tours only; book via
kunde, which has exhibits from part of the Binnenhof, where website. Closed public hols. & 8
many countries and hosts today’s parliament sits. The fairy- ∑ prodemos.nl
events on traditions, rituals, and tale, Gothic Ridderzaal (Hall of E Mauritshuis
practises of other cultures. the Knights), the 13th-century Korte Vijverberg 8. Tel 070-302 3456.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
8 - = 7 ∑ mauritshuis.nl
E Galerij Prins Willem V

Buitenhof 33. Tel 070-302 3456.
Open Tue–Sun. &
∑ galerijprinswillemv.nl
Environs
Only a 15-minute tram ride
from the center of Den Haag,
Scheveningen has clean, sandy
beaches and good seafood
restaurants. The resort also has
a Sea Life Center and Muzee, a
small museum of marine-biology
The Binnenhof, home of the Dutch parliament, The Hague and local-history exhibits.
9 Delft three connected tower blocks

* 95,000. £ @ n Hippolytus- whose tops are slightly off-kilter.
buurt 4 (0900-5151 555). ( Thu, Sat. The excellent Museum
Boijmans-van Beuningen holds
The charming town of Delft is Netherlandish and Dutch art.
most famous for its blue-and- Among its most famous exhibits
white pottery, known as Delft- are a number of paintings by
ware, which was introduced to Peter Brueghel and Rembrandt.
the Netherlands by immigrant Other museums of note
Italian potters in the 16th are the Wereldmuseum
century. De Porceleyne Fles is Rotterdam, with its superb
one of two Delftware potteries ethnological collection, the
still in operation, and is open Kunsthal, hosting exhibitions of
for guided tours. both high art and popular
Delft is also the resting place culture, and the Maritiem
of William of Orange (1533–84), Delft’s Nieuwe Kerk, with its soaring Museum Rotterdam, devoted
who commanded the Dutch 100 m (328 ft) high tower to the history of shipping,
Revolt against Spanish rule from whose highlight is an iron-clad
his headquarters in the town. His 0 Rotterdam warship, De Buffel, built in 1868.
richly decorated tomb lies in * 585,000. k 6 km (4 miles) NW. For a spectacular view of the
the Nieuwe Kerk, built between £ @ n Coolsingel 195 (010-790 city, take the elevator up the
1383 and 1510, but later restored 0185). ( Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun. 185 m (60 ft) high Euromast.
following damage caused by Built in 1960, it is the tallest
fire and explosion. The former Rotterdam occupies a strategic construction in the country,
convent that position where the Rhine meets and has a restaurant and an
William used as the North Sea. Barges from the exhibition area.
his military head- city transport goods deep into
quarters, and where the continent, and ocean-going E Museum Boijmans-van
he was assassinated ships carry European exports Beuningen
by order of Philip II around the world. Museumpark 18–20. Tel 010-441 9400.
of Spain, is now Following damage during Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
home to the World War II, Rotterdam’s old Dec 25. & - = 7
Stedelijk Museum harbor area and river front have ∑ boijmans.nl
Het Prinsenhof. been rebuilt in daring and E Wereldmuseum Rotterdam
Hand-painted The museum avant-garde styles. Piet Blom’s Willemskade 25. Tel 010-270 7172.
17th-century contains a rare Kubuswoningen (Cube Houses) Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
Delft tiles collection of of 1982 are extraordinary Dec 25. & - = 7
antique Delftware, apartments set on concrete ∑ wereldmuseum.nl
as well as tapestries, silverware, stilts. More recent eyecatching E Kunsthal
medieval sculpture, and portraits examples are Renzo Piano’s KPN Westzeedijk 341. Tel 010-440 0300.
of the Dutch royal family. Telecom head office and De Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Apr 27,
Other sites of interest are Rotterdam by Rem Koolhaas – Dec 25. & - = ∑ kunsthal.nl
the Vermeer Centrum Delft,
which charts the life and works
of Delft’s most famous son, Jan
Vermeer (1632–75), and the
Oude Kerk, which dates from
the 13th century. Vermeer is
buried here, his grave marked
by a simple stone tablet.
R Nieuwe Kerk
Markt. Tel 015-2123 025.
Open Mon–Sat. & ∑ onkd.nl
E Stedelijk Museum
Het Prinsenhof
St. Agathaplein 1. Tel 015-2602 358.
Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & =
∑ prinsenhof-delft.nl
E Vermeer Centrum Delft

Voldersgracht 21. Tel 015-213 8588.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Peter Brueghel the Elder’s The Tower of Babel (c.1553), in the Museum Boijmans-van
& 7 - = ∑ vermeerdelft.nl Beuningen, Rotterdam
Practical & Travel Information opening hours for the weekend.

Some museums adopt Sunday
The Netherlands is a straightforward country to travel hours for national holidays.
in, and visitors should find its citizens, who are often
multilingual, helpful and friendly. One of the joys of a visit Banking and Currency
to Amsterdam is the relatively car-free environment. Trams,
The Dutch unit of currency is
bicycles, and pedestrians are given a higher priority in the the euro (see p23). Banks open
center than motor vehicles. Outside the capital, the Dutch from 9 or 10am to 4 or 5pm
public-transportation network is one of the most highly Monday to Friday. Some city
developed in Europe. branches close at 7pm on
Thursdays and open on
Saturday mornings. Banks are
Tourist Information Safety and Emergencies usually the best place to change
The NBTC (Netherlands Board Amsterdam is much safer than money, but official bureaux de
of Tourism and Conventions) many North American and change, the GWK (grenswissel-
has offices in many cities world- European cities. Drugs-related kantoor-bureaus), also have
wide. Within the Netherlands, crime is still a problem, but reasonable exchange rates.
the state-run tourist-information tourists should not be affected by Most ATMs handle cards from
organization is the Vereniging this, as long as they act sensibly the main international banks,
Voor Vreemdelingenverkeer, and avoid certain areas after dark, and many credit cards. The latter
known as the VVV. They have in particular the Zeedijk district. are widely accepted in shops
around 450 offices throughout In case of emergencies, the and restaurants.
the country. The Amsterdam appropriate number to call is
branch is called VVV I listed in the directory opposite.
amsterdam Visitor Centre. } Communications
They provide information on Most public telephones have
sights, transportation, and Health Issues been removed due to the use
events, and will also change Minor health problems can be of cell phones, but you can still
money and reserve hotel rooms. dealt with by a chemist (drogist), find some in stations and tourist
The Museum Card (Museum- who stocks non-prescription areas. The majority of phone
kaart), available from branches drugs. If you need prescription booths only accept cards, which
of the VVV, is valid for a year, medicines, go to a pharmacy can be bought at post offices,
and allows admission to more (apotheek), open from 8:30am tobacconists, and train stations,
than 400 museums and galleries. to 5:30pm Monday to Friday. but it might be easier and
Attracted by the canals, cheaper to buy a local SIM
mosquitoes can be an irritant card for your phone.
Visa Requirements in Amsterdam, so bring plenty Main post offices are open
and Customs of repellent sprays and anti- 9am–5pm Monday to Friday.
Citizens of the EU, Australia, New histamine creams with you. Most small local post offices
Zealand, the US, and Canada have been replaced by post-
need only a valid passport to office agencies in supermarkets
enter the Netherlands. Those Museum Opening Times and bookstores. Stamps can be
visitors coming from non-EU Most of the larger museums bought at post offices,
states can reclaim VAT on certain open daily, usually from 10am tobacconists, or souvenir shops.
goods. Call the freephone line to 5pm. Some museums close
(0800-0143) for further details. on Monday, and have different
Flying to the Netherlands
Carriers operating non-stop
The Climate of the AMSTERDAM flights from the US to the
Netherlands Netherlands include American
The Netherlands has a °C/ºF
Airlines, Delta Air Lines, United
temperate climate. Winters are Airlines, and KLM. Seven airlines
frequently freezing, and spring 22/72 fly direct from the UK to the
and autumn can be chilly. July 13/55 12/54 14/58 Netherlands, among them
and August are the warmest 4/39
7/45 5/51 British Airways and low-cost
months, but North Sea winds 1/34
airlines including Ryanair,
often make it seem cooler. You 5 6.5 3 1.5
easyJet, and Transavia. The
should expect rainfall all year hrs hrs hrs hrs
least-expensive way to get from
round, but spring is generally 35 57 70 56 Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport to
the driest season. The heaviest mm mm mm mm
the city center is by the airport
rainfall occurs in the autumn, month Apr Jul Oct Jan train service. Trains leave for
especially in November. Centraal Station seven times
each hour between 5:40am
and 1am, after which they run onward connection to London. Buses in the Netherlands are
hourly. The journey takes 20 Stena Line offers a train and reliable and efficient, and they
minutes. Schiphol Airport ferry combination ticket from accept the OV Chipkaart, a card
station is also connected to London to Amsterdam. which can be loaded with credit
other cities in the Netherlands. The Dutch railroad system, at machines (found at bus and
operated by NS (Nederlandse train stations, post offices, and
Spoorwegen), is one of the supermarkets) and used on all
Arriving by Sea most modern and efficient in means of public transport. The
Ferry companies offering car and Europe, with an extensive route card is held against a card-
passenger services from the UK network. The NS website offers reader upon entering and
to the Netherlands include P&O up-to-date information on train exiting the bus, train, or tram,
North Sea Ferries, with daily trips for tourists, plus details of and it is debited depending on
sailings from Hull to Rotterdam, special fares. It does not, however, the distance traveled. You can
and Stena Line, which sails from issue tickets, which you buy at a buy a Chipkaart at train and bus
Harwich to Hook of Holland. ticket office; alternatively, use stations, tobacconists, post
P&O also operates regular the OV Chipkaart (see below). offices, and supermarkets.
crossings from Hull to Zeebrugge The info line 9292 provides
in Belgium. DFDS Seaways runs details on all public transporta-
an overnight service from tion in the Netherlands. If you Traveling by Car
Newcastle to Ijmuiden. need to arrange train travel The highway system makes it
abroad, visit the offices of NS easy to travel to the Netherlands
International, located in from anywhere in Europe. Major
Rail Travel Amsterdam’s Centraal Station or roads (marked N) and highways
International railroad routes book through the website. (labeled A or E) are generally
provide a fast and efficient link well maintained. When driving
between Amsterdam and many in towns, especially in
other European cities. From Traveling by Bus Amsterdam, be careful of cyclists,
Centraal Station, high-speed Long-distance bus travel is an trams, taxis, and pedestrians.
Thalys trains run to Brussels in inexpensive, if tiring, way to Most of the principal
2 hours 30 minutes, and to Paris reach the Netherlands. Eurolines international car-rental firms
in about 4 hours. In both Paris has at least two daily services have offices in Amsterdam and
and Brussels, passengers can from the UK to Amsterdam, at Schiphol Airport, but local
change to the Eurostar for an via the Channel Tunnel. companies are cheaper.
DIRECTORY
Netherland Board Ireland easyJet Stena Line
of Tourism and Scheveningseweg 12, Den Tel 0330-365 5000 (UK). Tel 0844-770 7070 (UK).
Conventions Haag. Tel 070-363 0993. ∑ easyjet.com ∑ stenaline.co.uk
UK UK KLM
Lange Voorhout 10, Tel 020-474 7747
Rail Travel
∑ holland.com/uk
2514 ED Den Haag. Tel 020-7660 0293 (UK). 9292
US Tel 070-427 0427. ∑ klm.com Tel 0900-9292.
∑ holland.com/us US ∑ 9292.nl
Ryanair
Museumplein 19, Tel 0871-246 0000 (UK). ∑ ov-chipkaart.nl
Tourist Offices in 1071 DJ Amsterdam.
∑ ryanair.com
the Netherlands Tel 020-575 5330. Eurostar
Transavia ∑ eurostar.com
VVV I amsterdam Emergencies Tel 352-2700 2728 (UK).
Visitor Centre NS
Tel 0900-0737.
Centraal Station Ambulance/Fire/Police ∑ ns.nl
∑ transavia.com
Stationsplein, Amsterdam. Tel 112.
United Airlines NS International
Tel 020-702 6000.
∑ iamsterdam.com Airlines Tel 800-UNITED-1 (US). Tel 0900-9296.
∑ united.com ∑ nsinternational.nl
American Airlines
Embassies Tel 800-433 7300 (US). Thalys
∑ aa.com
Ferry Companies Tel 0900-9296.
Australia
Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH DFDS Seaways ∑ thalys.com
British Airways
Den Haag. Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Tel 0871-522 9955 (UK).
Tel 070-310 8200. ∑ britishairways.com ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk Buses
Canada Delta Air Lines P&O European Eurolines UK Ltd
Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP Den Tel 800-241 4141 (US). Tel 08716-646 464 (UK). Tel 08717-818 178.
Haag. Tel 070-311 1600. ∑ delta.com ∑ poferries.com ∑ eurolines.co.uk
Shopping & Entertainment available from most newsagents

in the city center.
The Netherlands is justly famous for its cheeses, beers, and The main reservations office
flowers, available at specialist stores and supermarkets across for entertainment and cultural
the country. Amsterdam is a cosmopolitan city, so it is also easy activities in Amsterdam is the
VVV I amsterdam Visitor
to find a selection of foreign and ethnic goods, from Indonesian Centre at Stationsplein, across
beads to French designer wear. The famous brown cafés and from Centraal Station. Reduced-
coffee shops are an important part of Dutch social life, and price tickets can be bought at
visitors to the Netherlands should not miss the chance to try one. the Last Minute Ticketshop.
Opening Hours Witte, a white beer. Specialist Entertainment Venues

Stores in the Netherlands are store De Bierkoning offers the Among Amsterdam’s many
usually open from 9 or 10am to widest choice and best advice. theater venues are the Theater
6pm Tuesday to Saturday, and You can usually buy a good Bellevue, the Stadsschouwburg,
from 1 to 6pm on Monday. In selection of Dutch cheeses at and the Felix Meritis (closed for
the larger cities, many shops supermarkets, including any renovations until fall 2017). For
stay open until 9pm on branch of Albert Heijn, street experimental theater, head for De
Thursdays and Sundays. markets, or specialist food stores. Brakke Grond and other venues
Instead of buying the ubiquitous located along the street known
Edam, try one of the many as the Nes. The Koninklijk
Where to Shop varieties of Gouda. Mature Theater Carré hosts long-
Most of Amsterdam’s large Gouda has a rich, salty taste and running international musicals.
department and clothing stores crumbly texture, while young Dance is an important aspect
are located in the Nieuwe Zijde, Gouda is fresh and curdy. of cultural life in the Netherlands.
along Kalverstraat. The city’s Other items for which the The Dutch National Ballet is
best-known department stores Netherlands is famous are flowers housed in Amsterdam’s large-
are De Bijenkorf, often described – which you can buy at street capacity Nationale Opera &
as the Dutch Harrods, and stalls, markets, and stores – and Ballet, while experimental dance
Magna Plaza, which is more a diamonds. For the latter, visit can be enjoyed at De Meervaart
mall than a store. Less expensive Gassan Diamonds. and the Stadsschouwburg.
options include Vroom & The Nationale Opera & Ballet is
Dreesman and Hema. For luxury also home to the Dutch
fashion, PC Hooftstraat and Van Markets National Opera.
Baerlestraat are lined with chic The Dutch love street trading and The focus for Amsterdam’s
designer boutiques, such as almost every town has at least classical-music scene is
Chanel, and Louis Vuitton. one open-air market. In Amsterdam, the Concertgebouw, home
The streets crossing the best-known are the Albert to the celebrated Royal
Amsterdam’s Canal Ring, such as Cuypmarkt in Albert Cuypstraat, Concertgebouw Orchestra.
Herenstraat and Hartenstraat, with a mix of Dutch and ethnic The Netherlands has a huge
contain many specialist stores, food, cheap clothes, and flowers number of jazz venues. In
selling everything from ethnic and the Waterlooplein flea market, Amsterdam, the internationally
fabrics to handmade dolls. in Oude Zijde. The Looier Kunst en renowned Bimhuis, the
Antiekcentrum, at No. 109 Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, and
Elandsgracht, is a covered market the Alto Jazz Café are worth
What to Buy boasting the largest collection of visiting. The North Sea Jazz
One famous Dutch export is art and antiques in the Festival, held in Rotterdam
Delftware, the blue-and-white Netherlands. For flowers, visit the in July, attracts some of the
pottery from Delft (see p255). Only market along the Singel, between biggest names in jazz.
two factories still make it, though Konigsplein and Vizelstraat. Amsterdammers equate rock
imitation pieces are found in and pop with two venues, De
tourist stores all over the country. Melkweg and Paradiso, which
A certification stamp indicates Entertainment Listings offer a varied program. Big-name
that an article is genuine. In and Tickets bands also play at Rotterdam’s
Amsterdam, the Galleria d’Arte For up-to-date listings of events Ahoy and Amsterdam’s
Rinascimento and Jorrit Heinen and concerts, the capital’s Heineken Music Hall.
both stock authentic Delftware. official tourist website, www.
The Dutch are keen beer drinkers. iamsterdam.com, in English, is
As well as brand names like a good starting point. Time Brown Cafés and
Heineken, Grolsch, and Amstel, Out Amsterdam, a monthly Coffee Shops
there are many local specialties, magazine in English, carries The traditional Dutch “local pub,”
such as Zatte, a rare, bottle- extensive listings and restaurant the brown café, is characterized
fermented beer, and Wieckse reviews. The magazine is by dark wooden furnishings, low
ceilings, and dim lights. It is a Canal Tours tracks make cycling an

friendly place, and often a social There are many operators in extremely popular activity,
focus for the neighborhood. Amsterdam offering canal even within cities. Yellow Bike
There are hundreds in tours. In addition to the organizes excursions in and
Amsterdam, but one of the best daytime sightseeing trips, there around Amsterdam between
is the tiny ‘t Doktertje. are night cruises, which often April and October, while the
For many visitors, a stay in feature cheese-and-wine US-based Euro-Bike and
the Netherlands is incomplete refreshments, a stop at a pub, Walking Tours arranges week-
without a trip to a smoking or a romantic candlelit dinner. long tours around the whole
coffee shop, where cannabis Lovers cruises are the most country. Cycletours Holland
is openly sold and, since the reasonably priced, while has a number of “bike-and-
smoking ban was introduced, P. Kooij are more upscale. boat” itineraries covering the
smoked in designated areas. main regions of interest. For
Though technically illegal, the those who wish to do things
sale of soft drugs is tolerated by Cycling independently, bicycles can
the authorities if it remains It is claimed that there are more be rented easily from many
discreet. Siberië is one of the bicycles in the Netherlands than outlets across the country,
smaller, more relaxed places in inhabitants. The endlessly flat and at more than 100 train
Amsterdam, while The Bulldog landscape and thousands of stations. The VVV are able to
is more tourist-filled. miles of well-maintained cycle supply detailed route maps.
DIRECTORY
Department Entertainment ∑ heineken-music- Brown Cafés and
Stores Tickets hall.nl Coffee Shops
De Bijenkorf Last Minute Koninklijk Theater The Bulldog
Ticketshop Carré Leidseplein 15,
Dam 1, Amsterdam.
Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Amstel 115–125, Amsterdam.
Tel 0900-0919. Amsterdam. Tel 0900-252 Tel 020-627 1908.
∑ lastminuteticket
Wagenstraat 32, Den Haag. 5255. ∑ carre.nl
shop.nl ‘t Doktertje
Tel 0900-0919.
De Meervaart Rozenboomsteeg 4,
Coolsingel 105, VVV I amsterdam
Meer en Vaart 300, Amsterdam.
Rotterdam. Tel 0900-0919. ∑ iamsterdam.com
Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 4427.
Magna Plaza Entertainment Tel 020-410 7700. Siberië
Venues ∑ meervaart.nl Brouwersgracht 11,
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
182, Amsterdam. De Melkweg Amsterdam.
Alto Jazz Café Tel 020-623 5909.
∑ magnaplaza.nl Lijnbaansgracht 234a,
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
Amsterdam. Tel 020-531
Specialist Items
115, Amsterdam.
8181. ∑ melkweg.nl Canal Tours
Tel 020-626 3249.
Muziekgebouw Lovers
Albert Heijn Bimhuis aan ‘t IJ Opposite Prins
Jodenbreestraat 21, Piet Heinkade 3, Piet Heinkade 1, Hendrikkade 26,
Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-788 Amsterdam. Amsterdam. Tel 020-530
Tel 020-624 1249. 2188.∑ bimhuis.nl Tel 020-788 2000. 1090. ∑ lovers.nl
De Brakke Grond ∑ muziekgebouw.nl
De Bierkoning P. Kooij
Vlaams Cultureel Centrum, Nationale Opera & Opposite Rokin 125,
Paleisstraat 125,
Nes 45, Amsterdam. Ballet Amsterdam. Tel 020-623
Amsterdam. Tel 020-622 9014. Amstel 3, Amsterdam. 3810. ∑ rederijkooij.nl
Tel 020-625 2336. ∑ brakkegrond.nl Tel 020-625 5455.
Galleria d’Arte ∑ operaballet.nl Cycling
Concertgebouw
Rinascimento Concertgebouwplein 2–6, Paradiso Cycletours Holland
Prinsengracht 170, Amsterdam. Weteringschans 6–8, Buiksloterweg 7a,
Amsterdam. Tel 020-671 8345. Amsterdam. Tel 020-626 Amsterdam. Tel 020-521
Tel 020-622 7509. ∑ concertgebouw.nl 4521. ∑ paradiso.nl 8400. ∑ cycletours.nl
Felix Meritis Stadsschouwburg Euro-Bike and
Gassan Diamonds
Keizersgracht 324, Leidseplein 26, Amsterdam. Walking Tours
Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat Tel 1-800-575 1540.
Amsterdam. Tel 020-624 2311.
173, Amsterdam. ∑ eurobike.com
Tel 020-627 9477. ∑ ssba.nl
Tel 020-622 5333. ∑ felixmeritis.nl
Theater Bellevue Yellow Bike
Jorrit Heinen Heineken Music Hall Leidsekade 90, Amsterdam. Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
Muntplein 12, Amsterdam. Blvd 590, Amsterdam Zuid Tel 020-530 5301. Amsterdam. Tel 020-620
Tel 020-623 2271. Oost. Tel 0900-6874 242. ∑ theaterbellevue.nl 6940. ∑ yellowbike.nl
260  THE NETHERLANDS
Where to Stay
PLANTAGE: Price Guide
Amsterdam Amsterdam House €€ Prices are based on one night's stay in
Family Map D3
CENTRAL CANAL RING: ‘s-Gravelandse Veer 3–4, 1011 KM
The Golden Bear €€ Tel 020-626 2577 € under €100
Historic Map C3 ∑ amsterdamhouse.com €€ €100 to €180
€€€ over €180
Kerkstraat 37, 1017 GB A houseboat with a well-equipped
Tel 020-624 4785 kitchen and bathrooms. Ideal for
∑ quentingoldenbear.com groups up of to eight people. This rustic B&B in a converted
Popular gay/lesbian hotel, with farmhouse is located close to
two buildings dating back to 1731. PLANTAGE: Hermitage €€ town. Two nights minimum stay.
Breakfast is served until noon. Canalside Map D3
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16, 1018 DR HAARLEM: Stempels €€
Tel 020-623 8259 Historic
DK Choice ∑ hotelhermitageamsterdam.com Klokhuisplein 9, 2011 HK
EASTERN CANAL RING: A 1733 canal house with a garden. Tel 023-512 3910
Banks Mansion €€€ Good for groups or families. ∑ stempelsinhaarlem.nl
Canalside Map C3 This boutique hotel is located
Herengracht 519–525, 1017 BV WESTERN CANAL RING: where the former royal stamps
Tel 020-420 0055 Hotel Brouwer €€ and banknotes printing company
∑ carlton.nl Canalside Map C2 was housed.
This former bank-cum-mansion Singel 83, 1012 VE
has been the winner of a Tel 020-624 6358 THE HAGUE: Mozaic €€
Travelers’ Choice award. Rooms ∑ hotelbrouwer.nl Boutique
have a Frank Lloyd Wright- Unique rooms, named after Dutch Laan Copes van Cattenburgh 38–40,
inspired decor and a choice of artists, with views. No credit cards. 2585 GB
pillows. Everything is included Tel 070-352 2335
in the price – movies, breakfast, WESTERN CANAL RING: ∑ mozaic.nl
mini-bar, iPad loans, and more. Sunhead of 1617 €€ This design hotel in an elegant
Canalside Map C2 neighborhood has trendy, well-
Herengracht 152, 1016 BN appointed accommodations.
MUSEUM QUARTER: Conscious Tel 020-626 1809
Hotel Museum Square €€ ∑ sunhead.com ROTTERDAM: Stayokay €
Boutique Map B5 A romantic hotel with superb Hostel
de Lairessestraat 7, 1071 NR breakfasts and great views. Overblaak 85–87, 3011 MH
Tel 020-671 9596 Tel 010-436 5763
∑ conscioushotels.com ∑ stayokay.com
An eco-friendly hotel with huge Located in the Cube Houses
plants and sustainable materials. Rest of the built by Piet Blom in the 1980s.
Guests enjoy organic breakfasts. Netherlands Comfortable and distinctly quirky.
MUSEUM QUARTER: Stayokay DELFT: De Bieslandse UTRECHT: Grand Hotel Karel V €€

City Hostel Vondelpark €€ Heerlijkheid € Luxury
Family Map B4 Value Geertebolwerk 1, 3511 XA
Zandpad 5, 1054 GA Klein Delfgauw 61, 2616 LC Tel 030-233 7555
Tel 020-589 8996 Tel 015-310 7126 ∑ karelv.nl
∑ stayokay.com ∑ bieslandseheerlijkheid.nl In the former monastery of
Hostel with double rooms and the German Knightly Order, this
dorms. Facilities include a TV hotel boasts five-star luxury,
room and a bar/restaurant. stylish rooms, and cutting-edge
cuisine in its fine restaurant.
MUSEUM QUARTER:
Conservatorium €€€
Luxury Map B4 DK Choice
Van Baerlestraat 27, 1071 AN UTRECHT: Dom €€€
Tel 020-570 0000 Boutique
∑ conservatoriumhotel.com Domstraat 4, 3512 JB
Housed within a former music Tel 030-232 4242
conservatory, this hotel has state- ∑ hoteldom.nl
of-the-art amenities and a spa. In the shadow of Utrecht’s
landmark Dom tower, this
OUDE ZIJDE: Droog €€€ exclusive hotel is certainly
Luxury Map C3 the hippest in town, with a
Staalstraat 7B, 1011 JJ coveted restaurant, a cocktail
Tel 020-217 0100 bar out of a Bond movie, and
∑ hoteldroog.com rooms with Auping beds,
Hotel with a single apartment, Nespresso machines, and
an art gallery, a beauty salon, a yoga mats. Two suites come
boutique, and a courtyard Sumptuous furnishings at the Grand Hotel with private terraces.
garden, as well as a tearoom. Karel V, Utrecht

PLANTAGE: Tempura €€ Price Guide
Amsterdam Japanese Map E3 Prices are for a three-course meal for
Plantage Kerklaan 26, 1018 TC
CENTRAL CANAL RING: Tel 020-428 7132 Closed lunch, Mon
Pancakes! € Brasserie-style Japanese eatery € under €35
Dutch/Pancakes offering sushi, yakitori (skewered €€ €35 to €50
€€€ over €50
38 Berenstraat, 1016 GH chicken), and tempura dishes. The
Tel 020-528 9797 St. Jacques sashimi are wonderful.
Come here for delicious Dutch THE HAGUE: HanTing Cuisine €€€
and international pancakes. The WESTERN CANAL RING: Fusion
flour is sourced from the Dutch Greenwoods € Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA
grain mill De Eersteling. Tearoom Map C2 Tel 070-362 0828 Closed Mon
Singel 103, 1012 VG Chinese chef Han expertly fuses
CENTRAL CANAL RING: Tel 020-623 7071 Closed dinner French cooking with Oriental
Restaurant Vinkeles €€€ Come to this tearoom for a full flavors, creating dishes that
French English breakfast, afternoon tea please the eye and the palate.
Keizersgracht 384, 1016 GB with clotted cream, or organic
Tel 020-530 2010 Closed lunch, Sun lamb burgers. A sister restaurant LEIDEN: Buddhas €€
Dine among 18th-century bakery at Keizersgracht 465 does Thai
ovens or on a salon boat, and heartier fare, such as fish ’n’ chips. Botermarkt 20, 2311 EN
enjoy incredible Michelin-starred Tel 071-514 0047 Closed lunch
dishes. Huge Buddha statues line the
walls of this smart restaurant.
EASTERN CANAL RING: Rest of the It may be pricey, but the
Bazar
North African
€ Netherlands extensive menu, generous
portions, and authentic food
Map C4
Albert Cuypstraat 182, 1073 BL DELFT: La Tasca €€ make up for that.
Tel 020-675 0544 Mediterranean
Lively, colorful restaurant serving Voldersgracht 13B, 2611 ET ROTTERDAM: FG Restaurant €€€
delectable Moroccan and Middle- Tel 015-213 8535 Closed lunch, Sun International
Eastern dishes. Don’t look for the menu – there Lloydstraat 204, 3024 EA
isn’t one. Guests are invited to Tel 010-425 0520 Closed Sun
MUSEUM QUARTER: tell the chef what they don’t like, & Mon
Het Blauwe Theehuis € and he cooks up a three- to five- After cooking molecular
International Map B4 course surprise meal for them. cuisine at Heston Blumenthal’s
Vondelpark 5, 1071 AA restaurant, François Geurds has
Tel 020-662 0254 Closed Mon–Wed become a Michelin-starred chef
dinner DK Choice in his own right. Vegetarians get
Dine in a 1937 concrete, steel, and HAARLEM: De Jopenkerk €€ their own multi-course tasting
glass structure nestled in a park. Dutch menu, while the chef’s table
The menu combines European Gedempte Voldersgracht 2, 2011 is a coveted spot. Affordable
and Mediterranean influences. WB lunch menu.
Tel 023-533 4114
NIEUWE ZIJDE: Getto This century-old church has UTRECHT: Badhu €
Food & Drink € been transformed into a grand Arabian
Café/Bar Map D2 café, restaurant, and brewery. Willem van Noortplein 19, 3514 GK
Warmoesstraat 51, 1012 HW Most of the meat and fish dishes Tel 030-272 0444
Tel 020-421 5151 Closed lunch, Mon are cooked with beer, and every As befits a restaurant in a
This gay-friendly bar-restaurant course comes with a beer 1920s bathhouse, Badhu’s
offers home-style cooking. Its recommendation. A favorite interior is inspired by a
burgers are named after famous among the locals, this restaurant hammam. It serves an
Amsterdam drag queens, like the can get noisy, especially on Arabian breakfast, meze for
“Jennifer Hopeless.” weekend nights. lunch and dinner, afternoon
chai, and evening cocktails.
DK Choice
OUDE ZIJDE: Greetje €€€
Dutch Map D3
Peperstraat 23, 1011 TJ
Tel 020-779 7450 Closed lunch
Hailed by the New York Times as
the place where the Dutch go
to eat Dutch – it does not get
more authentic than Greetje.
Locals love the bloedworst
(blood sausage) with apple
compote, and the trekdrop
(liquorice) ice cream. The menu
changes every two months.
The brewing equipment behind the bar at De Jopenkerk, Haarlem
THE IBERIAN
PENINSULA
The Iberian Peninsula

Spain 266–335
Portugal 336–363
264  THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
The Iberian Peninsula at a Glance

A wonderful, warm climate and superb beaches have made
the Iberian Peninsula a popular package-tour destination,
drawing millions of visitors to well-known areas, such as the
Algarve in Portugal and the Costa del Sol in Spain. But there
are also tranquil fishing villages, first-class museums and
galleries, and a wealth of splendid architecture, from the grand 0 km 100
monuments left by the region’s Moorish rulers to ultramodern, 0 miles 100
21st-century designs. The Catholic faith has deep roots in
Portugal and Spain. As well as spectacular cathedrals, there
are many colorful religious festivals that take place all year
round, making a visit all the more enjoyable.
A Coruña Santander
Oviedo
Lugo
Santiago de
Compostela
León
Braganca
Valladolid
Toledo (see pp286–8) has one of the

largest cathedrals in Christendom, a Oporto
massive Gothic structure that soars
above the rooftops of the perfectly Salamanca
preserved medieval town.
Coimbra
Toledo
PORTUGAL
(see pp336–63)
Lisbon Merida
Ciudad Real
Evora
Lisbon (see pp340–49) rises

Córdoba
above the estuary of the Tagus
on a series of hills. Trams and
Seville
lifts carry passengers to the
heights of the Alfama and
Bairro Alto districts. Faro
Málaga
Seville (see pp318–21) is regarded

as the soul of Andalusia. The city’s
famous bullring is arguably the finest
in the whole of Spain, and a perfect
venue for a first experience of the
corrida, or bullfight.
The Alhambra complex in Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Madrid (see pp272–82)

is home to some of
Europe’s greatest art
galleries. The Museo
del Prado has out-
standing collections of
paintings by Velázquez
and Goya, whose
statue stands outside
the main entrance.
Locator Map
Bilbao
(Bilbo)
Pamplona
(Iruña)
Burgos
Zaragoza Lleida
Barcelona (see pp296–305)
Barcelona is famous for its Modernist
buildings, which include
Gaudí’s unfinished master-
piece, the Sagrada Família.
Madrid Teruel
Menorca
SPAIN
(see pp266–335) Mallorca
Valencia
Ibiza
Albacete
Alicante
(Alacant)
Granada
The Balearic Islands (see p309)

are often associated with mass
tourism, but away from the busy
resorts, there are hundreds of
unspoiled coastal villages and
Granada (see pp310 and 312–13), in the foothills beautiful coves to be discovered.
of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada, is unmissable
for its Moorish heritage. Its greatest monument
is the stunning Alhambra palace.
THE IBERIAN PENINSULA  267
SPAIN
The familiar images of Spain – flamenco dancing, bullfighting, tapas bars, and
solemn Easter processions – do no more than hint at the diversity of this
country. Spain has five official languages, two major cities, of almost equal
importance, and a greater range of landscapes than any other European
country. These contrasts make Spain an endlessly fascinating place to visit.
Separated from the rest of Europe by the The 1960s saw the beginning of
Pyrenees, Spain reaches south to the coast spectacular economic growth, partly
of North Africa, and has both Atlantic and due to a burgeoning tourist industry.
Mediterranean coastlines. The country’s Since then, Spain has become a major
climate and scenery vary dramatically, player in European and world affairs.
from the snowcapped peaks of the
Pyrenees, through the green meadows of History
Galicia and the orange groves of Valencia, From the 11th century BC, the coastal
to the dry, barren regions in the south. regions of the Iberian Peninsula were
Madrid, Spain’s capital, lies geographically colonized by sophisticated eastern
in the center of the country. The madrileños Mediterranean civilizations, starting with
– as the city’s inhabitants are known – the Phoenicians, then the Greeks and the
have an individualistic spirit and a sardonic Carthaginians. Celts mixed with native
sense of humor that set them apart from Iberian tribes, forming the Celtiberians.
other Spaniards. Madrid may be the The Romans arrived in 218 BC to take
nominal capital, but it is rivaled in possession of the peninsula’s huge mineral
commerce, sport, and the arts by wealth. The fall of the Roman Empire in the
Barcelona, the main city of Catalonia. 5th century AD left Spain in the hands of
In the last 50 years, Spain has undergone the Visigoths, invaders from the north. Their
more social change than anywhere else poor political organization, however, meant
in western Europe. In the first half of the they were easily conquered by the Moors,
20th century, it was largely a poor, rural who arrived from North Africa in around 711.
country. Gradually people flooded into the Within a few years, the Moors controlled
cities, leaving the rural areas depopulated. almost the entire peninsula. Europe’s only
The art of bullfighting, still a strong tradition all over Spain
Toledo, dominated by the fortress of the Alcázar

Moorish stronghold, in 1492.

In the same year, Columbus
reached the Americas, and the
conquistadors began
plundering the civilizations
of the New World.
The 17th century was a golden
age for Spain – a time of
outstanding artistic and literary
output. This brilliance occurred,
The Moor Boabdil surrendering Granada to the Catholic Monarchs however, against a backdrop of
economic deterioration and
major Muslim territory, the civilization ruinous wars with France and the Low
of Al Andalus excelled in mathematics, Countries. Spain’s misfortunes continued
geography, astronomy, and poetry, and in the 19th century, with an invasion by
by the 9th century, Córdoba was Europe’s Napoleon’s troops, leading to the War of
leading city. Independence (Peninsular War). In
In the 11th century, northern Christian the course of this century,
kingdoms initiated a military reconquest Spain also lost all her
of Al Andalus. The marriage, in 1469, of South and Central
Fernando of Aragón and Isabel of Castile – American colonies.
the so-called Catholic Monarchs – led to The late 19th century
Spanish unity. They took Granada, the last was a time of national
decline, with anarchism
KEY DATES IN SPANISH HISTORY developing as a
1100 BC Arrival of Phoenicians, first in a wave of response to rampant
settlers from across the Mediterranean political corruption.
218–202 BC Romans oust Carthaginians from Political instability led
southeastern Spain
to dictatorship in the General Franco, Nationalist leader
5th century AD Visigoths take control of Spain in the Spanish Civil War
1920s and, a decade
711 Moors invade Spain and defeat Visigoths
later, the Spanish Civil
756 Independent emirate established at Córdoba;
Moorish civilization flourishes
War. The victor, the Nationalist General
11th century Christian kingdoms begin reconquest
Franco, ruled by repression until his death
of Moorish territories in 1975. Since then, Spain has been a
1492 Catholic Monarchs capture Granada, last democratic state.
Moorish stronghold. Columbus reaches America
1561 Madrid becomes capital of Spain Development and Diplomacy
17th century Spain’s Golden Age After the death of the dictator General
1808–14 Spanish War of Independence Franco in 1975, Spain became a
1898 Spain loses its last American colony, Cuba constitutional monarchy under King Juan
1936–9 Spanish Civil War; Nationalist General Franco
Carlos I. The post-Franco era, up until the
emerges victor
mid-1990s, was dominated by the
1975 Death of Franco; restoration of Bourbon
monarchy as Juan Carlos I is proclaimed king Socialist Prime Minister Felipe González,
1986 Spain joins the EC (now EU) whose party, PSOE, was responsible for
1992 Barcelona hosts the Olympic Games major improvements in roads, education,
2000 Spain celebrates 25 years of democracy and health services. Spain’s entry to the
2004 Nearly 200 people die in terrorist bomb attacks European Community in 1986 triggered
on trains in Madrid a spectacular increase in the country’s
2014 King Juan Carlos abdicates and his son ascends prosperity. Its international reputation
to the throne as King Felipe VI of Spain
was given a further boost in 1992, when
S PA I N  269
Barcelona hosted the Olympic Games

and Seville was the site of Expo ’92.
With the establishment of democracy,
the 17 autonomous regions of Spain
have acquired considerable power.
A significant number of Basques favor
independence for the Basque Country.
The Basque terrorist group ETA declared
a ceasefire in 2011. There is a significant
independence movement in Catalonia,
led by Catalan President Artur Mas.
Religion, Language, and Culture

Following the Christian Reconquest in the
Middle Ages, a succession of rulers tried to
impose a common culture, but today
Spain remains a culturally diverse nation. Religious procession in a Seville street during Semana Santa
Several regions have maintained a strong (Holy Week)
sense of their own identities. Catalonia,
the Basque Country, Valencia, the Balearic The Spanish Way of Life
Islands, and Galicia have their own The Spanish are known for their natural
languages, which are in everyday use, and, sociability and zest for living. They
in some cases, have supplanted Castilian commonly put as much energy into
as the first language of the region. enjoying life as they do into their work.
During the Middle Ages, Spain gained The stereotypical “mañana” (“leave it until
a reputation for religious intolerance. tomorrow”) is a myth, but many people fit
The Inquisition, established by the their work around the demands of their
Catholic Monarchs, saw thousands of social life, rather than be ruled by the
non-Catholics tortured, executed, or clock. The day is long in Spain, and the
expelled from the country. Today, Spain Spanish have a word, madrugada, for the
enjoys complete religious freedom. time between midnight and dawn, when
Catholicism is becoming a less powerful city streets are often still full of revelers
influence in society, but saints’ days and enjoying themselves. Eating out is an
other important events in the Christian important social activity, with friends and
calendar are still marked by many family often meeting up in a pavement
traditional ceremonies, enthusiastically café or restaurant for a chat and a meal.
maintained in towns and villages Underpinning Spanish society is the
throughout modern Spain. extended family. In the past, a lack of
efficient public services has
forced the Spanish to rely on
close relatives, rather than
institutions, to find work or seek
assistance in a crisis. It is not
uncommon for three generations
to live under one roof, and even
lifelong city dwellers refer fondly
to their pueblo – the town or
village where their family comes
from, and which they return to
Spaniards socializing over drinks and a meal at a sidewalk café as often as they can.
Exploring Spain
Although many visitors to Spain come for the
beaches alone, increasingly tourists are drawn by the
country’s rich cultural heritage. The most popular
destinations are Madrid and Barcelona, which boast
world-class museums and a wealth of medieval and
modern architecture. For those with time to travel
further afield, Seville, Granada, and Córdoba in the
far south are the best places to see relics of Spain’s
Moorish past. Spain is Europe’s third-largest country, Ciutadella harbor, on the island of Menorca,
so getting around can be time-consuming. However, at twilight
Portsmouth
Plymouth
there is a reliable network of trains, as well as
good highways and bus services. Ba y of Bis ca y
A8 Gijon
A Coruña Santander
34
N6
Oviedo A8 A8
Sights at a Glance A6
A66
Lugo
1 Madrid pp272–82 Santiago de Picos de Europa
Compostela
2 El Escorial
N623
AP
Rías
AP9
53
3 Toledo pp286–8 N120
Baixas Pontevedra 71 León AP
1
4 Segovia AP A231
Vigo Ourense Burgos
5 Avila A52
A6
A67
N2
6 Salamanca Miño
A52
A6
2 34
3 Palencia
7 Burgos pp289–91 N1
N6
8 León 01
A1
N10
3
IP4 Valladolid Duero
9 Santiago de Compostela
Zamora A11
0 Rías Baixas
q Oviedo
Oporto
S P A
A6
Salamanca
w Picos de Europa
A5
e Santander A6 2 0 Segovia
r Bilbao Ávila El Escorial
t San Sebastián
MADRID
y Pamplona
6
Coimbra
A6
A23
10
N1
u Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes A5
Tajo
i Barcelona pp296–305 PORTUGAL
o Monestir de Montserrat Tajo
Toledo
pp306–7
A4
N502
A5 8
Cáceres
p Poblet
N40
A1
A8
a Tarragona
1
A5
N430 Ciudad 3
s Zaragoza A4
Badajoz Real
a
d Valencia LISBON Gu a d i a n
A5
f Costa Blanca A6
g Mallorca and
IP 2
N502
N4
the Balearic Islands 32
A4
N420
h Granada pp310, 312–13

j Málaga Úbeda
A66
N433
k Costa del Sol Córdoba
l Ronda ivir 4 3 Jaén
A4
lqu
N
2
ada
20
A2
Gu
N1
z Córdoba pp314, 316–17 A4

A22 Huelva
Seville Granada
x Seville pp318–21 A49
A92
c Parque Nacional de Doñana
Parque Nacional
AP4
Faro de Doñana 2
v Jerez de la Frontera A38
A45
b Cádiz Ronda A7
Jerez de la Frontera
Málaga Motril
A3
P7
81
Cádiz
A
Costa del Sol

Santa Cruz Algeciras
de Tenerife N3 GIBRALTAR
40
Las Palmas de
Gran Canaria Ceuta Melilla
Tangier
MOROCCO
S PA I N  271
Distance chart
Madrid Distance by road in kilometers
621
Barcelona
388
397 620
Bilbao
248 388
400 908 795
568 497
Córdoba
250
544 997 939 187
340 623 587 117
Malaga
0 km 80
623 1129 707 977 1153
0 miles 80 389 706 442 611 721 Pontevedra
538 1046 933 138 219 922

Seville
336 654 583 86 137 576
Portsmouth
352 349 633 545 648 975 697 Valencia
Bordeaux 220 218 396 341 405 609 436
325 296 324 725 869 833 863 326 Zaragoza
203 185 203 453 543 521 539 204
Bilbao F R A N C E
(Bilbo) San Sebastián Toulouse Marseille
(Donostia)
A1
Pamplona
AP68
A1 (Iruña)
2 N240
A1 ANDORRA
AP15
Logroño
N230
AP7
AP
Parc Nacional
68 Huesca N2
40
d'Aigüestortes
Eb Girona
C17
N II I
ro Monestir de
3
A2
Soria Montserrat
N2
Genoa, Livorno,
22 34 Lleida A2 Civitavecchia
N1 AP2
Zaragoza Poblet
Barcelona
I N A16
A23
N2
32
Tarragona
A2
Guadalajara
Teruel Menorca
N3
7
20
AP
A2 Ciutadella
Cuenca 3
Maó
Alcudia
A40 Castellon de
la Plana Mallorca
A3
Palma de Mallorca and the
AP
Mallorca
Valencia Balearic Islands
36
A3
A 43
Júcar Ibiza
Albacete A31
Eivissa (Ibiza)
7
AP
A3
Formentera
1
A30
Costa
22 Alicante
N3 Blanca
(Alacant)
C3314
ura
MEDITERRANEAN
Seg Murcia
SEA
A7
Cartagena
A92 AP7
A92
Key
A7 Almería
Highway
Major road
Railroad
International border The Giralda in Seville, a legacy of Spain’s
Melilla, Nador
Oran,Ghazaouet Moorish rulers

1 Madrid
Spain’s capital, a city of more than three million people, is
situated close to the geographical center of the country,
at the hub of both road and railroad networks. The origins
of the city date back to AD 852, when the Moors built a
fortress near the Manzanares River and a small community
grew up around it. It was not until 1561, however, that the
city became the capital of a newly formed nation-state. In
the following centuries, under the Habsburgs and then
the Bourbons, the city acquired some of its most notable
landmarks, including the splendid Plaza Mayor and the 19th-century taberna (taverna), one of the
Palacio Real. At the same time, the blossoming city few left in Madrid today
attracted some of Spain’s most outstanding artists, such
as court painters Velázquez and Goya, whose works can
CALL
E
be admired in the world-famous Museo del Prado. DE C
ARRA
N ZA
ON
Bilbao
CALL
E
ONTEL
E
DO
O
AN D R ES
CAL
DE
UERD
UE
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MADRID  273
Burgos
PASEO DE LA CA
Greater Madrid Chamartin
Getting Around Guadalajara
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CALLE DE BRAVO MU
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Barajas
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INF DEL REY
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AL 7 Museo Nacional del Prado
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Banco de PLAZA DE
V IA España AV
pp278–80
A LF O N S O XI
CIBELES EN
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CA LLE D E
Edificio Palacio de DE
ME
8 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Metrópolis J IC
A LA Banco de Comunicaciones O
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9 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
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Estación de
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The beautiful 17th-century Plaza Mayor, at the

heart of Old Madrid

Old Madrid and built in just two years.

At its center is an equestrian
When Felipe II chose Madrid as his capital in 1561, it was a statue of Felipe III, who ordered
small Castilian town of little importance. In the following the square’s construction.
years, it was to grow into the nerve center of a mighty empire. The elegant arcades that line
the Plaza Mayor are today filled
During the reign of the Habsburg dynasty, many royal with cafés and craft stores.
monasteries, churches, and private palaces were built. In the One of the more interesting
17th century, the Plaza Mayor was added, and the Puerta buildings is the Casa de la
del Sol became the spiritual and geographical Panadería, whose facade is
heart not only of Madrid, but of all Spain. decorated with splendid
allegorical paintings.
Old Madrid’s splendid Bourbon palace, the
On Sundays, the square is the
Palacio Real, was built under Felipe V in venue for a collectors’ market,
the first half of the 18th century. with stalls selling coins, stamps,
books, and other items.
historical events. On May 2,
1808, the uprising against the
occupying French forces began
in the square, and in 1912, the
liberal prime minister José
Canalejas was assassinated here.
2 Plaza Mayor
q Sol.
Bear and strawberry tree, the symbol of For hundreds of years, this
Madrid, Puerta del Sol beautiful 17th-century square
was a center of activity, with
1 Puerta del Sol bullfights, executions, pageants,
q Sol. and trials by the Inquisition
taking place here.
With its many shops and cafés, The first great public event Decorated chapel, Monasterio de las
the Puerta del Sol (“Gateway was the beatification of the Descalzas Reales
of the Sun”) is one of Madrid’s city’s patron, St. Isidore, in 1621.
liveliest areas, attracting huge Perhaps the greatest occasion,
crowds. The square marks the however, was the arrival from 3 Monasterio de las
site of the original eastern Italy of Carlos III (Carlos VII of Descalzas Reales
entrance to the city, once Naples) in 1760. He became
Plaza de las Descalzas 3. Tel 91-454
occupied by a gatehouse king of Spain after his half- 88 00. q Opera. Open 10am–2pm,
and a castle. brother, Fernando VI, died 4–6:30pm Tue–Sat; 10am–3pm Sun
A statue of Carlos III (reigned without an heir. Designed by & public hols. Closed Jan 1 & 6, 3
1759–88) stands at the center architect Juan Gómez de Mora, days after Easter, May 1, Dec 24, 25
of the square. On its southern the square was started in 1617 & 31. & (except Wed & Thu pm
edge is the austere Casa de for EU residents). 8
Correos, dating from the 1760s. ∑ patrimonionacional.es
Originally the city’s post office, it
later became the headquarters This religious building is a
of the Ministry of the Interior. rare surviving example of
During the Franco regime, the 16th-century architecture in
police cells below the building Madrid. Around 1560, Felipe II’s
were the site of human-rights sister, Doña Juana, decided to
abuses. Outside the building, a convert a medieval palace on
symbol on the ground marks this site into a convent.
Kilometer Zero, considered the Doña Juana’s rank accounts
center of Spain’s road network. for the massive store of art
On the opposite side of the amassed by the Descalzas
square is a bronze statue of the Reales (Royal Barefoot Sisters),
symbol of Madrid – a bear which includes a fresco of Felipe
reaching for the fruit of a IV’s family and, above the main
madroño (strawberry tree). staircase, a ceiling by Claudio
The Puerta del Sol has Facade of the Casa de la Panadería, on the Coello. The Sala de Tapices
witnessed many important Plaza Mayor contains stunning tapestries,
MADRID  275
The vast Palacio Real, Madrid’s 18th-century Bourbon palace
while paintings on display some interesting carved-stone adjacent antechamber hangs

include works by Brueghel the decoration, such as the striking a portrait of Carlos IV by Goya.
Elder, Titian, Zurbarán, Murillo, gargoyle-like caryatids at No. 12. Other star attractions are the
and Ribera. Further along the Gran Vía, Dining Room, with its fine
around the Plaza del Callao, are ceiling paintings and superb
a number of Art Deco buildings, Flemish tapestries, and the
4 Gran Vía including the well-known 18th-century Throne Room.
Capitol cinema and bingo hall,
q Plaza de España, Santo Domingo,
built in the 1930s.
Callao, Gran Vía.
A main traffic artery of the

modern city, the Gran Vía 5 Palacio Real
was inaugurated in 1910.
Calle de Bailén. Tel 91-454 88 00.
Lined with movie theaters, q Ópera, Plaza de España. @ 3,
tourist stores, hotels, and 25, 39, 148. Open 10am–8pm daily
restaurants, this grand avenue (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). Closed Jan 1 & 6,
also has many buildings of May 1 & 15, Sep 9, Dec 24, 25 & 31.
architectural interest. At the & (except Mon–Thu from two hours
Alcalá end of the street, the before closing for EU residents).
French-inspired Edificio 8d7=
Metrópolis and the Edificio la ∑ patrimonionacional.es
Estrella (No. 10) are both worth
seeing. The latter is a good Madrid’s vast and lavish Palacio
example of the eclectic mix Real (Royal Palace) was Colorful ceramics for sale at El Rastro
of Neoclassical design and commissioned by Felipe V flea market
ornamental detail that was after the royal fortress that
fashionable when the street had occupied the site for 6 El Rastro
was first developed. Look out for centuries was ravaged by fire
Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores.
in 1734. The palace was the q La Latina, Embajadores.
home of Spanish royalty until Open 10am–2pm Sun & public hols.
the abdication of Alfonso XIII
in 1931. Today it is used by Madrid’s famous flea market
the present king for state was established in the Middle
occasions only. Ages. Its heyday came in the
The exuberant decor of the 19th century, but today there
interior reflects the tastes of are still plenty of locals, as well
the Bourbon kings, Carlos III as tourists, who come to the
and Carlos IV. The walls and Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores
ceiling of the Porcelain Room, to browse around the many
commissioned by the former, stalls selling a huge range of
are covered in green and white wares – from new furniture
royal porcelain, which is to second-hand clothes. The
embossed with cherubs and market’s other main street is
wreaths. Named after its the Calle de Embajadores,
Neapolitan designer, the which runs down past the
One of the many 1930s Art Deco buildings Gasparini Room is equally dusty Baroque facade of the
lining the Gran Vía lavishly decorated. In the Iglesia de San Cayetano.
Street by Street: Paseo del Prado

In the late 18th century, before the museums and lavish
hotels of Bourbon Madrid took shape, the Paseo del
Prado was laid out and soon became a fashionable spot
for strolling. Today, the Paseo’s main attraction lies in its
museums and art galleries. Most notable are the Museo
del Prado (just south of the Plaza Cánovas del Castillo)
and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, both displaying
world-famous collections of paintings. Among the
monuments built under Carlos III are the Puerta de Paseo del Prado
Alcalá, the Fuente de Neptuno, and the Fuente de Based on the Piazza Navona in Rome, the
Paseo was built by Carlos III as a center for
Cibeles, which stand in the middle of busy roundabouts.
the arts and sciences in Madrid.
BAR
QUI
L A
LLO
C A
A L
E D E
L L
C A
CALLE
DEL M
Banco de
ARQUE
Banco de España España

Spain’s central reserve bank
S
is housed in this massive CALLE DE LOS MADRAZ

O
building with three facades
DE CUB
at the Plaza de Cibeles.

AS
P R A D O
D E L
ZOR
RIL
LA
PA S E O
Tourist
information
The Congreso de los

PLA
. Museo Thyssen-
Bornemisza Diputados, home of
ZA
D
Petrus Christus’s Our Lady the Spanish parliament, E
NEPTUNO
of the Dry Tree (c.1450) is witnessed the country’s
one of many early Flemish transition from dictatorship
works in this excellent art to democracy. Museo del
collection (see p281). Prado
The Plaza de Neptuno is Hotel Palace
0 meters 100 dominated by a sculpted
0 yards 100 fountain of the god Neptune
in his chariot.

MADRID  277
Palacio de Linares
This grandly decorated
late 19th-century palace
now houses the Casa de
América, an organization
that promotes Latin
American culture.
Palacio de Comunicaciones . Puerta de Alcalá

D E
A Sculpted from granite, this
Z
L
former gateway into the
A
A
city is especially beautiful
L
P
when floodlit at night.
A L A
A L C
PL D E IN
L E
A C A L D
A
CI E P I
E N D E N C
Z
A
CALLE DE ALFONSO XI
B
E
DE
L
ES
X I I
CALL
E DE
M O N TA L B A N
A L F O N S O
D E
CALLE JUAN DE MENA . Plaza de Cibeles

A fountain with a statue of
C A L L E
the Roman goddess Cybele

stands in this square.
PLAZA
DE
L
The Museo Nacional
AL
I O M AU R A
C A L L E A N TO N de Artes Decorativas
EALT
Parque del was founded in 1912

AD
Retiro as a showcase for

Spanish ceramics
and interior design.
RUIZ DE ALARCON
CALLE FELIPE IV
The Monumento del Dos de
Mayo commemorates the War of
Independence against the French.
The Hotel Ritz, with
its belle-époque
interior, is one of the Salón de Reinos
most elegant hotels Key This part of the old Retiro Palace has
in the whole of Spain. some halls decorated by Velázquez.
Suggested route It is now part of the Prado Museum.
7 Museo Nacional del Prado

The Prado Museum houses the world’s greatest assembly of Spanish paintings from
the 12th to the 19th century, including major works by Velázquez and Goya. It also
houses impressive foreign collections, particularly of Italian and Flemish works. The
Neoclassical building was designed in 1785 by Juan de Villanueva on the orders of
Carlos III. In 2006, a fully refurbished Casón del Buen Retiro and a new building in
the cloisters on San Jerónimo’s church opened to the public. In 2009, the former
army museum (Salón de Reinos) also became part of the Prado.
. Velázquez Collection
The Triumph of Bacchus
(1629), Velázquez’s
first portrayal of
a mythological
subject, shows
the god of wine
(Bacchus) with
a group of
drunkards.
The Martyrdom
of St. Philip
(c.1639)
The Valencian José
de Ribera moved
to Naples as a
young man. He
was influenced by
Caravaggio’s use of
light and shadow,
known as chiaroscuro,
as seen in this work.
The Garden of Delights

(c.1505)
Hieronymus Bosch, known Main entrance
as El Bosco in Spanish, was
one of Felipe II’s favorite
artists, and is especially well
represented in the Prado.
This enigmatic painting is
part of a triptych depicting
paradise and hell.
The museum’s facade,

Gallery Guide dating from the 18th
The best way to enter the Prado is through the century, illustrates the
modern reception center situated between the Neoclassical move
main building and the church behind. The works toward dignity, away
are arranged in schools, with the oldest works from the excesses of
displayed on the lowest floors. The magnificent Baroque architecture.
Velázquez collection is located on the first floor,
along with other 17th-century Spanish works. Ticket office
MADRID  279
The second floor, Practical Information

the Villanveva building, Paseo del Prado.
contains collections of Tel 902-107 077.
works by Goya Open 10am–8pm daily (to 7pm
and 18th-century Sun). Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
Spanish paintings. & free from 6pm (5pm Sun). 7
=-0d8
∑ museodelprado.es
Transport
q Atocha, Banco de España.
First floor @ 9, 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37, 45.
Stairs to lower floor

-m§
. Goya Collection
In The Clothed Maja and The Naked
Maja (both c.1800), Goya tackled the
taboo subject of nudity, for which he
was later accused of obscenity.
The Three Graces

(c.1635)
This was one of the
last paintings by the Flemish
master Rubens, and was part of
his personal collection. The three
Ground floor women dancing in a ring – the
Graces – are the daughters of
Zeus, and represent Love, Joy,
and Revelry.
Casón del Jerónimos

Buen Retiro Building Changes at the Prado
Underground link
The Jerónimos Building
TO Villanueva Building
Key to Floorplan O
RE houses temporary exhibitions
M
Spanish painting D
E and Renaissance sculptures, as
E
A
LL well as a shop, restaurant, café,
Flemish and Dutch painting C
auditorium, and cloakroom.
Italian painting In the future the Salón de
O
AD
French painting Reinos may also become part

PR
Jerónimos
L
of the Prado.
DE
German and British painting entrance

CA
O
LL
SE
E
Sculpture
PA
D
Museum buildings
E
FE
Drawing
LI
PE
IV
Non-exhibition space
Exploring the Prado’s Collection Italian Painting

The importance of the Prado is founded on its royal collections. The most remarkable Italian
The wealth of foreign art, including many of Europe’s finest paintings are Botticelli’s
works, reflects the historical power of the Spanish crown. The dramatic wooden panels that
depict The Story of Nastagio
Low Countries and parts of Italy were under Spanish rule for degli Onesti, Raphael’s Christ
hundreds of years. The 18th century was an era of French Falls on the Way to Calvary
influence, following the Bourbon accession to the Spanish (1516), and Christ Washing the
throne. The Prado is worthy of repeated visits, but if you go Disciples’ Feet (c.1547), by
only once, see the Spanish works of the 17th century. Tintoretto. Venetian masters
Titian – Charles V’s court
painter – and Veronese are
extreme in his painting The equally well represented. Also
Spanish Painting Adoration of the Shepherds on display are works by
Right up to the 19th century, (1612–14). Giordano, Fra Angelico,
Spanish painting focused on The Golden Age of the 17th Caravaggio, and Tiepolo,
religious and royal themes. century produced such great master of Italian Rococo.
There are a few examples of artists as José de Ribera and
Spain’s early-medieval art in the Francisco de Zurbarán. Works
Prado, such as the anonymous by both are on display in the
mural paintings from the Holy Prado. This period, however, is
Cross hermitage in Maderuelo. best represented by the work
Spanish Gothic art can be seen of Diego Velázquez, Spain’s
in the works of Bartolomé leading court painter. Examples
Bermejo and Fernando Gallego. of his royal portraits and
Renaissance features began religious and mythological
to emerge in the paintings of paintings are displayed,
Pedro de Berruguete and including his masterpiece, Las
Fernando Yáñez de la Alme- Meninas (1656), a portrait of the
dina, whose work shows the Infanta Margarita surrounded
influence of Leonardo da Vinci. by her courtiers.
Among examples of 16th-century Another great Spanish painter, From the Early Renaissance, Fra Angelico’s
Mannerism are paintings by Francisco de Goya, revived The Annunciation (c.1430)
Pedro Machuca and Luis de Spanish art in the 18th century.
Morales “the Divine.” One of His later work embraces the
the great masters of this period horrors of war, as seen in The 3rd French and German
was the Cretan-born artist El of May (1814), and culminated Painting
Greco, who made his home in in a somber series known as Marriages between French and
Toledo. The distortion of the The Black Paintings. Spanish royalty in the 17th
human figure, typical of the century brought French art to
Mannerist style, is carried to an Spain. This section contains a
Flemish and Dutch selection of works by Poussin,
Painting Jean Ranc, Claude Lorrain, and
Exceptional Flemish works Antoine Watteau.
of art include Rogier van der German art is represented
Weyden’s masterpiece, The by Albrecht Dürer’s lively Self-
Deposition (c.1430), and some Portrait (1498), as well as by the
of Hieronymus Bosch’s major works of Lucas Cranach and the
paintings, such as the late 18th-century court painter
Temptation of St. Anthony Anton Raphael Mengs.
(c.1500) and The Haywain
(c.1485–90). Among the
16th-century paintings is the Casón del Buen Retiro
superb Triumph of Death (1562) The Casón is a study center,
by Brueghel the Elder. There are housing restoration studios, a
nearly 100 canvases by the specialist school, and an art
17th-century Flemish painter library. On weekends, there
Peter Paul Rubens, of which the are guided visits of the
greatest is The Adoration of the dome painted by Luca
Magi. The two most notable Giordano. You will need to
Dutch paintings on display are ask for permission to use the
The Adoration of the Shepherds (1612–14), both by Rembrandt: Artemisia art library, as it is otherwise
by El Greco (c.1500) and a fine self-portrait. closed to the public.
MADRID  281
century. It houses major works

by such influential artists as
Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Joan
Miró, and Eduardo Chillida.
There is also space dedicated to
post-World War II movements,
such as Abstract, Pop, and
Minimal Art.
The highlight of the
collection is Picasso’s Guernica
(1937). This Civil War protest
painting was inspired by the
mass air attack in 1937 on the
Basque village of Gernika by
Gallery at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza German pilots flying for the
Nationalist air force.
8 Museo Thyssen- Christus’s Our Lady of the Dry Tree
Bornemisza (c.1450), and The Toilet of Venus
Paseo del Prado 8. Tel 902 760 511.
(c.1629), by Peter Paul Rubens. 0 Parque del Retiro
q Banco de España, Sevilla. @ 1, 2,
On the ground floor are two
q Retiro, Ibiza, Atocha. Open daily.
5, 9, 14, 15, 20. Open noon–4pm Mon,
temporary exhibition galleries
7 ∑ parquedelretiro.es
10am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm on Sat with free access.
for temporary exhibitions). Closed Jan An extension has joined the
1, May 1, Dec 25. & (free Mon). 8 7 museum to two buildings in The Retiro Park formed part of
= - 0 d ∑ museothyssen.org order to display its collection of Felipe IV’s royal-palace complex.
Impressionist works, mainly All that remains of the palace is
This magnificent museum from the 19th century. the Casón del Buen Retiro (now
houses a collection of art part of the Prado museum) and
assembled by Baron Heinrich 9 Centro de Arte the Salón de Reinos (the former
Thyssen-Bornemisza and his army museum).
son, Hans Heinrich. From its Reina Sofía First fully opened to the
beginnings in the 1920s, the Calle Santa Isabel 52. Tel 91-774 10 00. public in 1869, the Retiro
collection was intended to q Atocha. @ 6, 8, 10, 14, 19, 27, 45, remains a popular place for
illustrate the history of Western 55, 60, 78. Open 10am–9pm Mon, relaxing in Madrid. The park has
art, from the 14th to the 20th Wed–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun (to a pleasure lake, where rowing
century. In 2004, 200 paintings 7:30pm for temporary exhibitions). boats can be hired. On one side
from the Carmen Thyssen- Closed Tue, main public hols. & of the lake, in front of a half-
Bornemisza Collection were (free from 7pm Mon, Wed–Sat, from moon colonnade, stands an
added. Among the museum’s 3:30pm Sun). 8 7 = - 0 equestrian statue of Alfonso XII.
∑ museoreinasofia.es
exhibits are masterpieces by To the south of the lake are
Titian, Goya, and Van Gogh. two attractive palaces. The
The series of Dutch and Housed in an 18th-century Neoclassical Palacio de
Flemish works is a strong point former general hospital, with Velázquez and the Palacio
of the collection. Highlights three additional modern glass de Cristal (Crystal Palace) were
include Jan van Eyck’s The buildings, this superb museum built by Velázquez Bosco in
Annunciation (c.1435–41), Petrus traces art through the 20th 1887 as exhibition venues.
Colonnade and statue of Alfonso XII (1901) overlooking the Parque del Retiro’s boating lake
example, society, religion, and

communication. One of the
highlights of the museum is
the rare Mayan Códice Tro-
cortesiano (AD 1250–1500)
from Mexico – a hieroglyphic
parchment illustrated with
scenes of everyday life. Also
worth seeing are the Treasure
of the Quimbayas, pre-
Columbian gold and silver
items dating from AD 500–
1000, and the display of
contemporary folk art from
some of Spain’s former
American colonies.
Roman floor mosaic in the Museo Arqueológico Nacional
e Plaza de Toros
q Museo Steps outside the museum’s
Arqueológico entrance lead underground to de las Ventas
an exact replica of the Altamira Calle Alcalá 237. Tel 91-356 22 00.
Nacional caves in Cantabria – complete q Ventas. Open for bullfights &
Calle Serrano 13. Tel 91-577 79 12. with their Paleolithic paintings. guided visits only. Museo Taurino:
q Serrano, Retiro. @ 1, 9, 19, 51, 74. The earliest engravings and Tel 91-725 18 57. Open 9:30am–
Open 9:30am–8pm (6:30pm Jul & Aug) drawings date back to around 2:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sun.
Tue–Sat, 9:30am–3pm Sun. Closed 18000 BC. The boldly colored 8 daily (687-739 032). 7
main public hols. & (free from 2pm bison paintings date from ∑ las-ventas.com
Sat & Sun). 8 7 ∑ man.mcu.es around 13000 BC.
Las Ventas is undoubtedly one
Founded by Isabel II in 1867, of the most beautiful bullrings
Madrid’s National Archaeo- w Museo de América in Spain. Built in 1929 in Neo-
logical Museum has hundreds Avde los Reyes Católicos 6. Tel 91-549 Mudéjar style, it replaced the
of fascinating exhibits, ranging 26 41. q Moncloa. Open 10am– city’s original bullring, which
from the prehistoric era to the 8:30pm Tue–Sat (Nov–Apr: to 6:30pm), stood near the Puerta de
19th century. 10am–3pm Sun. Closed some public Alcalá. Outside the bullring are
One of the highlights of hols. & (free on Sun). 7 monuments to two famous
the prehistoric section is the ∑ mecd.gob.es/museodeamerica bullfighters: Antonio
exhibition on the ancient Bienvenida and José Cubero.
civilization of El Argar (1800– This fine museum houses a Adjoining the building, the
1100 BC) – an advanced collection of artifacts relating Museo Taurino provides a
agrarian society that flourished to Spain’s colonization of the history of the rituals and contains
in southeast Spain. There is also Americas. Many of the exhibits, bullfighting memorabilia, such
a display of jewelry uncovered which date back to prehistoric as portraits and sculptures of
at the Roman settlement of times, were brought to Europe famous matadors. There is also a
Numantia, near Soria, and a by the early explorers of the display of the tools of the
5th-century BC bust, La Dama New World. The collection is bullfighter’s trade, including
de Elche. arranged thematically, with capes and banderillas – sharp
The museum’s ground floor individual rooms on, for darts used to wound the bull.
is largely devoted to the period
between Roman and Mudéjar
Spain, and contains some
impressive Roman mosaics.
Outstanding pieces from
the Visigothic period include
a collection of 7th-century
gold votive crowns from Toledo
province, known as the Treasure
of Guarrazar.
Also on show are examples
of Andalusian pottery from
the Islamic era and various
Romanesque exhibits, among
them an ivory crucifix carved
in 1063 for King Fernando I. Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid’s magnificent bullring
MADRID  283
The Art of Bullfighting

Bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual in which men (and a few women) pit themselves against
an animal bred for the ring. In this “authentic religious drama,” as the poet Federico
García Lorca described it, the spectator experiences the same intensity of fear and
exaltation as the matador. There are three stages, or tercios, in the corrida (bullfight). The
first two, which involve a team of men both on horseback and on foot, are aimed at
progressively weakening the bull. In the third, the matador moves in for the kill. Despite
opposition on the grounds of cruelty, bullfighting is still very popular. For many Spaniards,
the toreo, the art of bullfighting, is a noble part of their heritage. However, fights today
are often debased by practices designed to disadvantage the bull, in particular shaving
its horns to make them blunt. Bullfighting has been illegal in Catalonia since 2012.
Manolete is
regarded by most
followers of
bullfighting as one
of Spain’s greatest
matadors. He was
finally gored to
death by the bull
The toro bravo (fighting bull), bred for Islero at Linares,
courage and aggression, enjoys a full life Jaén, in 1947.
prior to its time in the ring. Bulls must be at
least four years old before they can fight.
The matador wears

a traje de luces (suit of
lights), a colorful silk
outfit embroidered Joselito was a
with gold sequins.
leading matador,
famous for his
purist style.
He displayed
superb skill
with the
capote (red cape)
and the muleta
(matador’s stick).
Following a short
Banderillas, barbed darts, are retirement, he has
thrust into the bull’s back returned to the ruedos
muscles to weaken them. (bullring).
The Bullring
The audience at a bullfight is seated Key
in the tendidos (stalls) or in the Tendidos
palcos (balcony), where the
Palcos
presidencia (president’s box) is
situated. Opposite are the puerta Presidencia
de cuadrillas, through which the Puerta de cuadrillas
matador and team arrive, and the Arrastre de toros
arrastre de toros (exit for bulls).
Before entering the ring, the Callejón
matadors wait in a callejón Barreras
(corridor) behind barreras and Burladeros
burladeros (barriers). Horses are
Patio de caballos
kept in the patio de caballos
and the bulls in the corrales. Corrales
Plan of a typical bullring
Central Spain cathedral, aqueduct, and castle

dominating the skyline, the
Much of Spain’s vast central plateau, the meseta, is covered view of the town from the valley
with wheat fields or dry, dusty plains, but there are many below at sunset is magical.
attractive places to explore. Spain’s largest region, Castilla y Perched on a rocky outcrop
León, has a rich history. It boasts some of the country’s most at the city’s western end is the
Alcázar, a fairytale castle with
splendid architecture, from Segovia’s famous Roman gabled roofs, turrets, and
aqueduct, to the Gothic cathedrals of Burgos and Léon, and crenellations. Begun in the 12th
the Renaissance grandeur of Salamanca’s monuments. Avila’s century, the castle assumed its
medieval city walls are a legacy of the long struggles between present form between 1410
the Christians and the Moors. Dotted with windmills and and 1455, though it had to be
largely rebuilt following a fire
medieval castles, Castilla-La Mancha is home to the historic
in 1862. The castle contains a
town of Toledo, another popular destination. museum of weaponry and
several sumptuous apartments.
funerary urns of Spanish Dating from 1525, Segovia’s
monarchs. Some of the most cathedral was the last great
important works of the royal Gothic church to be built in
Habsburg collections, including Spain. It replaced the old
Flemish, Italian, and Spanish cathedral, destroyed in 1520
paintings, are housed in the when the Castilian towns
Museum of Art, located on the revolted against King Carlos I.
first floor. Other fine works of art Other churches in the old
can be found in the chapter town include the Romanesque
houses, with their fresco-adorned San Juan de los Caballeros,
ceilings, and in the basilica. which has an outstanding
In contrast to the artistic sculpted portico, San Esteban,
wealth of other parts of the and San Martín.
palace, the royal apartments Segovia’s Roman aqueduct
are remarkably humble. was built in the 1st century AD
and remained in use until the
late 19th century.
The Library at El Escorial, with its
3 Toledo
16th-century frescoed ceiling See pp286–8. + Alcázar
Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia.
2 El Escorial 4 Segovia
Tel 921-46 07 59. Open daily.
Closed Jan 5, Dec 25 & 31. & 8
El Escorial. Tel 91-890 59 02. £ from (by appt and for fee). 7
Atocha or Chamartín, Madrid. @ 661, Segovia. * 56,000. £ @
n Plaza de Azoguejo 1 (921-46 67 20).
664 from Moncloa, Madrid. Open
10am–8pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm Oct– ∑ turismodesegovia.com Environs
Mar); ticket office closes 1 hour earlier. The palace of Riofrío, 11 km
Closed public hols. & (except Wed & Segovia is one of Spain’s most (7 miles) southwest of the city,
Thu pm for EU residents). 8 spectacularly sited cities. The was built as a hunting lodge for
old town is set high on a rocky Felipe V’s widow, Isabel Farnese,
Felipe II’s imposing palace of San spur, surrounded by the Eresma in 1752. Today, it houses a
Lorenzo de El Escorial was built in and Clamores rivers. With its hunting museum.
1563–84 in honor of St. Lawrence.
The austere, unornamented
building set a new architectural
style – known as “Herreriano,”
after the palace’s architect, Juan
de Herrera. Its interior was
conceived as a mausoleum and
contemplative retreat rather
than a splendid residence.
Among the most impressive
parts is the Library, with a
collection of more than 40,000
books and manuscripts. Its
ceiling is decorated with 16th-
century frescoes by Tibaldi. The
Royal Pantheon, a mausoleum
made in marble, contains the Segovia’s distinctive Alcázar, perched high above the city
S PA I N  285
magnificent Plaza Mayor was

built by Felipe V in the 18th
century to thank the city for its
support during the War of the
Spanish Succession. Among the
arcaded buildings lining the
square are the Baroque town
hall and the Royal Pavilion, from
where the royal family used to
watch events in the square.
Other fine monuments located
in the heart of the city include the
16th-century Iglesia-Convento
de San Esteban, with its lovely
ornamented facade, and the
Section of Avila’s 12th-century city walls Convento de las Dueñas,
which preserves Moorish
5 Avila Alfonso IX of León in 1218. and Renaissance features.
Avila. * 59,200. £ @ n Avenida The 16th-century facade of the The Museo Art Nouveau y
de Madrid 39 (920-35 40 00). main building on the Patio de Art Déco holds an important
las Escuelas is a splendid collection of 19th- and
The perfectly preserved medieval example of the Plateresque 20th-century paintings, jewelry,
walls that encircle this historic style. This form of early Spanish ceramics, and stained glass.
city were built in the 12th Renaissance architecture is so On the city outskirts, the
century by Christian forces as a called because of its fine detail, 1st-century AD Roman bridge,
defense against the Moors. Of which resembles ornate the Puente Romano, offers a
the nine gateways in the walls, silverwork – platero in Spanish good view over the entire city.
the most impressive is the Puerta means silversmith.
de San Vicente. Avila’s cathedral, The 16th-century, mainly P Universidad
whose unusual exterior is carved Gothic new cathedral and Calle Libreros. Tel 923-29 44 00.
with beasts and scaly wild men, the 12th- to 13th-century Open daily. Closed Dec 25.
also forms part of the city walls. Romanesque old cathedral & (except Mon am).
Avila is the birthplace of St. stand side by side. A highlight E Museo Art Nouveau y Art Déco
Teresa (1515–82), one of the of the old cathedral is the richly Calle Gibraltar 14. Tel 923-12 14 25.
Catholic Church’s greatest mystics colored altarpiece (1445) by Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1 & 6,
and reformers. The Convento de Nicolás Florentino. The Dec 25. & (free Thu am). 7 =
Santa Teresa occupies the site
of the home of this saint, who
also lived for many years in the
Monasterio de la Encarnación.
Among the city’s finest
churches are the 12th-century
Iglesia de San Vicente and
the Romanesque-Gothic
Iglesia de San Pedro.
Beyond the town center,
the beautiful Real Monasterio
de Santo Tomás contains the
tomb of Tomás de Torquemada
(1420–98), the notorious head
of the Spanish Inquisition.
6 Salamanca
Salamanca. * 155,000. k 15 km
(9 miles) E. £ @ n Plaza Mayor 32
(923-21 83 42). ∑ salamanca.es
Home to one of the oldest

universities in Europe, Salamanca
is also Spain’s best showcase of
Renaissance and Plateresque
architecture. The city’s famous
university was founded by View of Salamanca’s twin cathedrals, from the Puente Romano
3 Street by Street: Toledo

Picturesquely sited on a hill above the Tagus
River is the historic center of Toledo. Behind the Puerta de
old walls lies much evidence of the city’s rich Valmardón
history. The Romans built a fortress on the site of
the present-day Alcázar. In the 6th century AD,
the Visigoths made Toledo their capital, and left
behind many churches. After it was captured
from the Moors by Alfonso VI in 1085, the city
became the capital of the Christian kingdom of Iglesia de San Román
Castile. During the Middle Ages, Toledo was a This church contains
melting pot of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish a museum relating
the city’s past under
cultures, and it was during this period that the the Visigoths.
city’s most outstanding monument – its
cathedral – was built. In the 16th century, the
painter El Greco came to live in Toledo, and DE
LLE
today the city is home to many of his works. CA
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Sinagoga del Tránsito and

Casa-Museo de El Greco
Archbishop’s
Palace
Taller del Moro 0 meters 100

This Mudéjar palace houses a museum 100
0 yards
of Mudéjar ceramics and tiles. It is,
however, closed for renovation with
no confirmation of an end date.
S PA I N  287
The Puerta Ermita del Cristo de la Luz

This small mosque, the city’s
del Sol has
a double only remaining Muslim
Moorish arch building, dates from around
Toledo. * 83,300.
and two AD 1000.
n Plaza del Consistorio 1
towers.
(925-25 40 30). ( Tue.
_ Corpus Christi (May/Jun),
Virgen del Sagrario (Aug 15).
Iglesia de San Román:
Tourist information, Open Tue–Sun. Taller del Moro:
bus and train stations Closed for renovation. &
Transport
£ Paseo de la Rosa (902-320
320). @ Avenida de Castilla-
La Mancha (925-21 58 50).
The Plaza de Zocodover is

named after the market
OS
LO S A L F I L E R I T which was held here in
PLAZA DE Moorish times. It is still the
ZOCODOVER city’s main square, with
many cafés and shops.
C U E S TA D E C A R LO S V
IO
C
R
E
M
O
C
L
E
D
E
L
L
A
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. Museo de
Santa Cruz
The city’s main fine-arts
collection includes
several tapestries from
O
Flanders. Among them is

S I X TO R A M O N P A R R
this 15th-century zodiac

tapestry, with well-
preserved rich colors.
S
ERO
DEL C ISN
ARDENAL C
Key
Suggested route
. Cathedral
Built on the site of a Visigothic
cathedral and a mosque, this Alcázar
impressive structure is one of the In the central patio of the
largest cathedrals in Christendom fortress is a replica of the
(see p288). The beautiful Gothic statue Carlos V y el Furor. The
high altar reredos (1504) is the original is housed in Madrid’s
work of several artists. Museo del Prado.
Exploring Toledo one of the best examples of

Mudéjar architecture in Toledo.
Easily reached from Madrid by train, bus, or car, Toledo is
best explored on foot. To visit all the main sights you need + Alcázar
at least two days, but it is possible to walk around the Cuesta de Carlos V. Tel 925-23 88
00. Open 11am–5pm Thu–Tue.
medieval and Jewish quarters in a long morning. To avoid & (free Sun).
the heavy crowds, go midweek and stay for a night, when Charles V’s fortified palace
the city is at its most atmospheric. stands on the site of former
Roman, Visigothic, and Muslim
fortresses. In 1936, it was
almost completely destroyed
during a 70-day siege by the
Republicans. The restored
building houses the Museo
del Ejército (National Army
Museum) and a private library,
which holds a valuable
collection of books and
manuscripts dating back
Toledo cathedral, rising above the rooftops of the medieval quarter to the 11th century.
R Cathedral and Renaissance tapestries, E Museo Sefardi

Calle Cardenal Cisneros 1. Tel 925-22 paintings, and sculptures. Calle Samuel Leví. Tel 925-22 36
22 41. Choir, Treasury, Chapterhouse, There are also works by the 65. Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat pm
and Sacristy Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm. Cretan artist El Greco, as well as & Sun).
&87 examples of two typical Toledan The Sinagoga del Tránsito, a
The splendor of Toledo’s cathedral crafts: armor and damascened 14th-century former synagogue,
reflects its history as the spiritual swords, the latter made by is the setting for this museum
heart of the Spanish church and inlaying blackened steel with dedicated to the Sephardic
the seat of the Primate of all gold wire. The museum is (Spanish Jewish) culture. The
Spain. The present cathedral housed in a fine renovated synagogue preserves a
stands on the site of a 7th- Renaissance building and wonderfully elaborate Mudéjar
century church. Work began in has an elegant courtyard. interior hidden behind a
1226, but the last vaults were not humble façade.
completed until 1493. This long R Iglesia de Santo Tomé
period of construction explains Calle Santo Tomé s/n. Tel 925-25 60 E Casa-Museo de El Greco
the cathedral’s mixture of styles: 98. Open daily. & Paseo del Tránsito. Tel 925-99 09 80.
the exterior is pure French Gothic, Visitors come to this church Open Tue–Sun. & (free from 2pm
while inside, Spanish decorative mainly to admire El Greco’s Sat & all day Sun).
styles, such as Mudéjar – a masterpiece, The Burial of the It is uncertain whether El
hybrid Christian-Islamic style – Count of Orgaz. The church is Greco actually lived in or
and Plateresque, are used. thought to date back to the simply near to this house,
Among the cathedral’s most 12th century, and its tower is now a museum containing
outstanding features are the a collection of his works.
polychrome reredos of the high Canvases include the superb
altar (1504) and the choir. In series Christ and the Apostles.
the treasury is a 16th-century On the ground floor is a chapel
Gothic silver monstrance, over with a fine Mudéjar ceiling and
3 m (10 ft) high. The monstrance works of art by painters of the
is carried through the streets of Toledan School, such as Luis
Toledo during the Corpus Tristán, a student of El Greco.
Christi celebrations. Standing
out from the mainly Gothic P Puerta Antigua
interior, the Transparente is a de Bisagra
stunning Baroque altarpiece When Alfonso VI of Castile
of marble, jasper, and bronze, conquered Toledo in 1085,
sculpted by Narciso Tomé. he entered it through this
gateway – the only one in
E Museo de Santa Cruz the city to have kept its
Calle Cervantes 3. Tel 925-22 10 36. original 10th-century military
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. architecture. The towers are
This museum of fine arts has The Assumption (1613) by El Greco, topped by a 12th-century
a superb collection of medieval in the Museo de Santa Cruz Arab gatehouse.
S PA I N  289
return, in 1497, from the central role in the early

second of his voyages years of the Reconquest.
to the Americas. The city’s Gothic cathedral,
Burgos’s cathedral on Plaza de la Regla, dates
(see pp290–91) is a from the mid-13th century.
UNESCO World Heritage As well as some glorious
site and the city’s most stained glass, it has a
prominent landmark. splendid west front,
Nearby, the Iglesia de decorated with a
San Nicolás boasts a series of 13th-
fine 16th-century century carvings.
The Arco de Santa María in Burgos, adorned altarpiece, while the The Colegiata de
with statues and turrets Iglesia de San Lorenzo San Isidoro is built into the
has a splendid Baroque Roman walls encircling the
7 Burgos ceiling. The Museo de city. The Romanesque
Burgos. * 179,900. £ @ n Plaza Burgos contains Panteón Real (Royal
de Alonso Martínez 7 (947-20 31 25). archaeological and Pantheon) is
fine-art collections. decorated with
Founded in 884, Burgos was the West of the city carved capitals
capital of the united kingdoms of is the 12th-century Statue of El Cid, Burgos’s most and 12th-century
Castile and León from 1073 until Real Monasterio de famous son frescoes. León’s old
1492. A few hundred years later, Huelgas, a former quarter is a maze of
Franco chose Burgos as his convent that houses narrow alleyways,
headquarters during the Civil War. a textile museum. lined with bars, cafés, churches,
Approaching the city via the and old mansions. The Hostal de
bridge called the Puente de E Museo de Burgos San Marcos was founded in the
Santa María, you enter the old Calle Miranda 13. Tel 947-26 58 75. 12th century as a monastery for
town through the grand Arco Open Tue–Sun. & (except Sat & pilgrims on route to Santiago
de Santa María. The other main Sun). 7 (see p292). A gem of Spanish
route into Burgos is the Puente E Real Monasterio de Huelgas Renaissance architecture, the
de San Pablo, where a statue Calle de los Compases. Tel 947-20 16 present building was begun in
commemorates local hero El 30. Open 10am–2pm, 3:45–6:30pm 1513 for the Knights of Santiago.
Cid (1043–99). Born Rodrigo Tue–Sat; 10:30am–3pm Sun & public Today, it houses a luxurious hotel
Díaz de Vivar, this great warrior hols. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Good Fri, and the Museo de León.
fought for both the Moors May 1, May 30, Dec 24, 25, & 31. 8
and the Christians in the 7 & (except Wed & Thu pm for E Museo de León
Reconquest, and for his heroism EU residents). Plaza Santo Domingo 8. Tel 987-23 64
was named El Cid, from the 05. Open Tue–Sun. Closed main
Arabic Sidi (Lord). He is 8 León public hols. & (free Sat & Sun).
immortalized in the anonymous León. * 134,000. £ @ n Plaza
poem, El Cantar del Mío Cid (1180). de la Regla 4 (987-23 70 82). Environs
Not far from the statue of El To the east of León, the
Cid stands the Casa del Cordón, Founded as a camp for the 10th-century Iglesia de San
a 15th-century former palace Romans’ Seventh Legion, Miguel de Escalada is one of the
(now a bank). It was here León became the capital of finest surviving churches built
that the Catholic Monarchs the kingdom of León in the by the Mozarabs – Christians
welcomed Columbus on his Middle Ages and played a influenced by the Moors.
Detail from a 13th-century carving decorating the west front of León’s cathedral
Burgos Cathedral
Spain’s third-largest cathedral was founded in 1221 under
Fernando III and was named a UNESCO World Heritage
site in 1984. The groundplan – a Latin cross – measures
84 m (276 ft) by 59 m (194 ft). Its construction was carried
out in several stages over three centuries, involving artists
and architects from across Europe. The style is almost
entirely Gothic, with influences from Germany, France,
and the Low Countries. In the Middle Ages, the cathedral
was a main stopping point for pilgrims on the road to
Santiago (see p292). Burgos’s most celebrated son, the
medieval hero of the Reconquest, El Cid, is buried in
the cathedral, as is his wife. West Front
The lacy, steel-grey spires
soar above a sculpted
balustrade depicting
Castile’s early kings.
. Golden Staircase
Diego de Siloé’s elegant Renaissance
staircase (1519–22) links the nave with
the Gothic Coroneria Gate (kept locked)
at street level.
KEY
1 The Capilla de la Presentación

(1519–24) is a funerary chapel with a
star-shaped, traceried vault.
2 Capilla de Santa Tecla
3 Tomb of El Cid
4 Capilla de Santa Ana is a
chapel with a beautiful altarpiece
(1490) by the sculptor Gil de Siloé.
The central panel shows the Virgin
with St. Joachim.
5 The Lantern is a 59 m (194 ft)
octagonal tower positioned over the
nave and crowned with eight spires.
Puerta de Santa María
6 Capilla de San Juan (main entrance)
Bautista and museum
7 Capilla de la Visitación
8 Capilla del Santísimo Cristo

S PA I N  291
Ambulatory
Several of the reliefs around
the chancel were carved by
Philippe de Bigarny. This
Plaza de Santa María.
expressive scene, which was
Tel 947-20 47 12.
completed in 1499, depicts
Open mid-Mar–Oct:
the road to Calvary.
9:30am–7:30pm daily; Nov–mid-
Mar: 10am–7pm. 5 9am, 10am,
11am, 7:30pm daily; Sun also:
noon (sung), 1pm, 2pm.
&87
. Constable’s Chapel
The tomb of the High Constable of
Castile and his wife lies beneath the
openwork vault of this chapel of 1496.
Sacristy (1765)
The sacristy was rebuilt in
Baroque style, with an
exuberant plasterwork
vault and Rococo altars.
Puerta de la Coronería
The tympanum of this portal
of 1240 shows Christ flanked
by the Evangelists. Statues
of the apostles sit below.
. Crossing
The star-ribbed central
dome, begun in 1539, is
supported by four huge
pillars. It is decorated with
effigies of prophets and
saints. Beneath it is the
tomb of El Cid and his wife.
Northern Spain There is also the Centro Gallego

de Arte Contemporáneo, with
Northern Spain encompasses a variety of landscapes and works by leading Galician artists.
cultures. In the far northwest of the peninsula, the Galicians
E Centro Gallego de Arte
are fiercely proud of their customs and language. Spain’s
Contemporáneo
greenest region, Galicia boasts some of the most attractive Calle Valle Inclán s/n. Tel 981-54 66 19.
stretches of Atlantic coast, as well as the beautiful city of Open Tue–Sun. 8 by prior
Santiago de Compostela. Popular with hikers and naturalists, appointment (call 981-54 66 23). 7
the spectacular Picos de Europa massif sits astride the border
between Asturias and Cantabria. The Basque Country is a
unique part of Spain, whose main attractions include superb 0 Rías Baixas
cuisine, fashionable seaside resorts, and the cultural center Pontevedra. £ @ Pontevedra. n
Praza da Verdura s/n, Pontevedra (986-
of Bilbao, with its famous Guggenheim Museum.
09 08 90).
The southern part of Galicia’s west

coast consists of four large rías, or
inlets, between pine-covered hills.
Known as the Rías Baixas (Rías
Bajas), they offer fine beaches,
safe bathing, and lovely scenery.
The main town on the coast is
lively Pontevedra, which has
many historic monuments,
such as the Gothic Convento
de Santo Domingo, and an
excellent provincial museum.
Many areas along the coast
have become popular holiday
resorts, such as Sanxenxo, west
of Pontevedra. To the south,
Baiona and Panxón both have
Santiago de Compostela’s grand cathedral, towering over the city good beaches, as well as sailing
and a variety of water sports. In
9 Santiago de place for sick pilgrims. It is now spite of tourism, much of the
a parador hotel. Nearby are the coastline, particularly the
Compostela 9th-century Convento de San quieter northernmost part,
A Coruña. * 95,000. k 10 km (6 Paio de Antealtares, one of the remains unspoiled. Here you
miles) N. £ @ n Calle Rúa do Villar city’s oldest monasteries, and can visit many small fishing
63 (981-55 51 29). _ Fiesta (Jul 25). the Convento de San Martiño ports and watch the locals
∑ santiagoturismo.com Pinario, whose Baroque church harvesting mussels and clams.
has a wonderfully ornate While in Rías Baixas, look out
In the Middle Ages, this fine city Plateresque facade. for hórreos – traditional stone-
was Christendom’s third most The Convento de Santo built granaries raised on stilts.
important place of pilgrimage Domingo de Bonaval, east of The waterfront of picturesque
after Jerusalem and Rome. In the center, is also worth visiting. Combarro is lined with these
813, the body of Christ’s apostle Part of the monastery now buildings, typical of the whole
James was supposedly houses a Galician folk museum. of Galicia.
discovered here, and in the
following centuries, pilgrims
from all over Europe flocked
to the city.
On the Praza do Obradoiro
stands the city’s cathedral,
built in honor of St. James. The
present structure dates from the
11th–13th centuries, but the
Baroque west facade was added
in the 18th century. The square’s
northern edge is flanked by the
grand Hostal de los Reyes
Católicos, built by the Catholic
Monarchs (see p268) as a resting The tranquil fishing village of Combarro in the Rías Baixas
S PA I N  293
w Picos de Europa
Asturias, Cantabria, and Castilla y León.
@ Oviedo to Cangas de Onís. n
Cangas de Onís (985-84 86 14). Fuente
Dé cable car: Tel 942-73 66 10. Open
daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6; Dec 24, 25 & 31.
This beautiful mountain range –

christened “Peaks of Europe” by
returning sailors, as this was
often the first sight of their
homeland – offers superb
upland hiking and supports
a diversity of wildlife.
The two main gateways to The early 20th-century Palacio de la
Santa María del Naranco, a Pre-Romanesque the Picos are Cangas de Onís, Magdalena in Santander
church in Oviedo northwest of the park, and
Potes, on the eastern side. About style, following a fire in 1941
q Oviedo 8 km (5 miles) southeast of the that destroyed the entire town.
former, Covadonga is where, in The 12th-century crypt has
Asturias. * 225,000. £ @
n Marqués de Santa Cruz 1 (985-22
722, the Visigoth Pelayo is said to been preserved. Nearby, the
75 86). ∑ turismoviedo.es have defeated a Moorish army, Museo de Bellas Artes has
inspiring Christians to reconquer works by Goya and Zurbarán,
Oviedo, the cultural and the peninsula. The road south while the Museo de Prehistoria
commercial capital of Asturias, from Cangas de Onís follows the y Arqueología displays local
is best known for its Pre- spectacular gorge known as the finds, including Neolithic axe
Romanesque buildings. This Desfiladero de los Beyes. heads, Roman coins, pottery,
style flourished in the 8th–10th The Fuente Dé cable car, in and figurines.
centuries and was confined to the heart of the park, climbs On the Península de la
a small area of the kingdom 900 m (2,950 ft) to a rocky Magdalena stands the Palacio de
of Asturias, one of the few plateau, offering magnificent la Magdalena, built for Alfonso
areas of Spain that escaped panoramic views. XIII in 1912. The upscale seaside
invasion by the Moors. resort of El Sardinero, to the
With its huge barrel-vaulted north, has a long beach, chic
hall and arcaded galleries, the e Santander cafés, and a majestic white casino.
church of Santa María del Cantabria. * 175,700. k g £ @
Naranco, in the north of the n Jardines de Pereda (942-203 000). E Museo de Bellas Artes
city, was built as a summer _ International Festival (Jul–Aug). Calle Rubio 6. Tel 942-20 31 20.
palace for Ramiro I in the 9th Open Tue–Sun. 8
century. Equally impressive Cantabria’s capital, Santander,
are the church of San Miguel is a busy port that enjoys a E Museo de Prehistoria
de Lillo and the 9th-century splendid site on a deep bay on y Arqueología
church of San Julián de los Spain’s north Atlantic coast. The Calle Hernán Cortés 4. Tel 942-20 99
Prados, with its frescoes. cathedral was rebuilt in Gothic 22. Open Wed–Sun. & 7 8
In the center of Oviedo, the
Flamboyant Gothic cathedral
and the 9th-century Iglesia
de San Tirso are both worth
taking some time to see.
The city has two museums
of note: the Museo
Arqueológico, which contains
local prehistoric, Roman, and
Romanesque treasures, and
the Museo de Bellas Artes
(Museum of Fine Arts).
E Museo Arqueológico
Calle San Vicente 5. Tel 985-20 89 77.
Open Wed–Sun. 7
E Museo de Bellas Artes

Calle Santa Ana 1. Tel 985-21 30 61.
Open Tue–Sun. 7 19th-century Neo-Romanesque basilica in Covadonga, Picos de Europa
are the handsome Plaza de la

Constitución and the church of
Santa María del Coro, with its
Baroque portal. Behind the old
town, Monte Urgull is worth
climbing for the superb views
from its summit. At the foot of
the hill, the Museo de San Telmo
holds exhibits including works
by El Greco.
The Playa de la Concha is one
of the most famous beaches in
Spain. As it curves around the
Bay of La Concha, it becomes Bulls scattering the runners during
the Playa de Ondarreta, at the Sanfermines in Pamplona
end of which is Eduardo
Frank Gehry’s ultramodern Museo Chillida’s beautiful sculpture, the y Pamplona
Guggenheim building in Bilbao Comb of the Winds. The Palacio Navarra. * 196,000. k £ @
Miramar (1889), built for Queen n C/San Saturnino 2 (948-42 07 00).
r Bilbao María Cristina, is a venue for the _ Sanfermines (Jul 6–14).
Vizcaya. * 354,000. k g £ @ world-famous film festival.
n Plaza Circular 1 (944-79 57 60). Supposedly founded by the
_ Fiesta (third week Aug). E Museo de San Telmo Roman general, Pompey,
Plaza Zuloaga. Tel 943-48 15 80. Pamplona is most famous for
Bilbao (Bilbo) is the center of Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. the fiesta of Los Sanfermines,
Basque industry and Spain’s & (free Tue). 7 8 with its daredevil bull running.
leading commercial port, yet it West of the city’s mainly
has many cultural attractions Gothic cathedral lies the old
worth visiting. In the city’s Jewish quarter, with the Neo-
medieval quarter – the Casco classic Palacio del Gobierno
Viejo – the Museo Arqueológico, de Navarra and the medieval
Etnográfico e Histórico Vasco Iglesia de San Saturnino.
displays Basque art and folk The Museo de Navarra is a
artifacts, while in the newer town, museum of regional history,
the Museo de Bellas Artes is one archaeology, and art.
of Spain’s best art museums. Southeast of the center is
The jewel in Bilbao’s cultural Felipe II’s massive citadel,
crown, however, is the Museo erected in the 16th century.
Guggenheim Bilbao, which has
a superb collection of Modern E Museo de Navarra
and contemporary art. It is just Calle Santo Domingo. Tel 848-42 64
one of the city’s many pieces Mural by Josep Maria Sert in the Museo de 93. Open Tue–Sun. & free Sat pm,
of modern architecture, which San Telmo, San Sebastián Sun. 7 8 by appointment.
also include the striking Palacio
de la Música y Congresos
Euskalduna. Basque Culture
The Basques are one of the oldest people in Europe. Long isolated in
E Museo Guggenheim
their mountain villages, they have preserved their unique language
Av Abandoibarra. Tel 944-35 90 00.
(Euskera), myths, and art – almost untouched by outside influences –
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Jul & Aug:
for millennia. Many families still live in the stone caseríos, or
daily). Closed public hols. & 0 8
farmhouses, built by their
d 7 ∑ guggenheim-bilbao.es
forebears. Among the most
popular exponents of Basque
cultural life are the bertsolaris, oral
t San Sebastián poets, originally from rural areas,
Guipúzcoa. * 185,000. £ @ who improvise verses and who
n Boulevard 8 (943-48 11 66). are still very popular among the
_ International Film Festival (late Sep). younger generations. Though
the Basque region has had its
Popular with the aristocracy, own parliament since 1975 (as all
San Sebastián (Donostia) other Spanish regions), there has
always been a strong separatist
became a fashionable seaside
movement seeking to sever links The Ikurriña, the flag of the
resort in the late 19th century. Basque region
with the government in Madrid.
At the heart of the old town
S PA I N  295
Catalonia Royal Tombs, where many

A nation-within-a-nation, Catalonia has its own semi- Spanish monarchs are buried.
Begun in 1359, they were
autonomous regional government, and its own language. reconstructed by Marès in 1950.
Spoken by more than eight million people, Catalan has
supplanted Castilian Spanish as the first language of the
region, and is used on road signs and in place names
a Tarragona
everywhere. Barcelona is the region’s capital, rivaling Tarragona. * 140,000. k £ @
n Carrer Major 39 (977-25 07 95).
Madrid in economic and cultural importance. Catalonia
offers a variety of attractions. The flower-filled valleys of Now a major industrial port,
the Pyrenees offer a paradise for naturalists and walkers, Tarragona preserves many
while inland are medieval towns, Roman ruins, and remnants of its Roman past,
spectacular monasteries, such as Montserrat. when it was the capital of the
Roman province, Tarraconensis.
Among the extensive ruins
u Parc Nacional
are the Anfiteatro Romano
d’Aigüestortes (Roman Amphitheater) and the
Lleida. £ La Pobla de Segur. @ El Praetorium, a Roman tower that
Pont de Suert, La Pobla de Segur. was later converted into a
n Boí (973-69 61 89). medieval palace. Also known as
the Castell de Pilat (after Pontius
The pristine mountain scenery Pilate), the tower houses the
of Catalonia’s only national Museu de la Romanitat, which
park is among the most contains Roman and medieval
spectacular in the Pyrenees. finds and gives access to the
The main village in the area is cavernous passageways of the
the mountain settlement of 1st-century AD Roman circus.
Espot, on the park’s eastern In the adjacent building is the
edge. Dotted around the park Museu Nacional Arqueològic,
are waterfalls and more than The superb altarpiece at Santa Maria which holds the most important
a hundred lakes and tarns. de Poblet collection of Roman artifacts in
The most beautiful scenery is Catalonia, including some
around Sant Maurici lake, from Carlist upheavals, the abbey beautiful frescoes. An
where several walks lead north sustained serious damage. archaeological walk follows
to the towering peaks of Agulles Restoration began in 1930, and part of the Roman city wall.
d’Amitges. The park is home to monks returned a decade later. Tarragona’s 12th-century
an impressive variety of wildlife: Poblet is enclosed by fortified cathedral was built on the
chamois, beavers, otters, and walls that have hardly changed site of a Roman temple and
golden eagles have all found a since the Middle Ages. Its an Arab mosque, and exhibits
habitat here. evocative, vaulted cloisters a harmonious blend of styles.
were built in the 12th and
13th centuries. Beautiful, E Museu Nacional Arqueològic
i Barcelona carved scrollwork decorates de Tarragona
See pp296–305. the capitals. Behind the stone Plaça del Rei 5. Tel 977-23 62 09.
altar, an impressive alabaster Open Jun–Sep: 9:30am–8:30pm Tue–
o Monestir de reredos, carved by Damià Sat; Oct–May: 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat,
Forment in 1527, fills the apse. 10am–2pm Sun all year. & (Oct–Jun:
Montserrat Other highlights include the free Tue). 7
See pp306–7.
p Poblet
Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
Montblanc. Tel 977-87 00 89. £ to
L’Espluga de Francolí, then taxi. @
Open 10am–12:45pm, 3–5:30pm
daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. &
Santa Maria de Poblet was the

first and most important of
three medieval monasteries,
known as the “Cistercian
triangle.” In 1835, during the View across the Roman amphitheater at Tarragona
i Barcelona Greater Barcelona

Vallvidrera Terrassa
Barcelona, one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports, is

more than the capital of Catalonia. In culture, commerce, Tibidabo
B20
and sport, it rivals not only Madrid, but also many of Horta
Europe’s greatest cities. The success of the 1992 Olympic Sant
C 16 (
Gervasi
Games, staged in the Parc de Montjuïc, confirmed this to
E9 )
Sabadell
the world. Although there are many historical monuments Les Corts A2 Gràcia
in the Old Town, the city is best known for the scores of
Sants 7
superb buildings left behind by the artistic explosion of A1
Modernisme in the decades around 1900. Today, Barcelona

C3I
still sizzles with creativity; its bars and public parks speak El Prat
Airport
Mataró
more of bold contemporary design than of tradition.

NII
0 km 2
Sights at a Glance
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1 Barcelona Cathedral
2 Museu d’Història de Barcelona Key
3 La Rambla
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BARCELONA  297
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d ite Getting Around
Me
The Old Town is well served by metro lines 1, 3, and 4. Jaume I
metro station is in the heart of the Barri Gòtic, and many buses
pass through the Plaça de Catalunya on the edge of the district.
Metro line 5 takes you to the Sagrada Família, a long walk from
other sights. Set atop a steep hill, most of Montjuïc’s attractions
can be reached by buses 13, 50, and 150 from the Plaça
d’Espanya, or by funicular and cable car from Metro Paral.lel.

Street by Street: Barri Gòtic

The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is the true heart of Barcelona. The Casa de l’Ardiaca
This site was chosen by the Romans in the reign of Augustus (Archdeacon’s House), a
Gothic-Renaissance building
(27 BC–AD 14) to found a new colonia (town), and has been
on the Roman city wall,
the location of the city’s administrative buildings ever since. now houses Barcelona’s
The Roman forum was on the Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the historical archives.
medieval Palau de la Generalitat, Catalonia’s parliament, and
the Casa de la Ciutat, the town hall, now stand. Nearby are the
Gothic cathedral and royal palace, where Columbus was
received by the Catholic Monarchs on his return from
the New World in 1492. Roman city
wall
Plaça de
Catalunya
B I S B E
CARRER DELS COMTES DE BARCELONA

D E L
C A R R E R
SANT SE VER
SANT HONOR AT
. Cathedral
The facade and spire are 19th-
century additions to the original
building. The cathedral’s treasures
include medieval Catalan paintings.
Palau de la
Generalitat
The superb Gothic PL AçA DE
features of the SANT JAUME
Catalan Parliament CARRER DE FARRAN C ARRER DE JAUM
include the chapel
and a stone
staircase rising to
IUTAT
an arcaded gallery.
DAGUERIA
DE L A C
La Rambla
C ARRER
RER
CAR
Casa de la Ciutat The Centre Excursionista

Barcelona’s town hall was built in the de Catalunya, housed in a
14th and 15th centuries. The facade is a medieval mansion, displays
Neoclassical addition. In the entrance Roman columns from the
hall stands Three Gypsy Boys by Joan Temple of Augustus, whose
Rebull (1899–1981), a 1976 copy of a site is marked by a millstone
sculpture he originally created in 1946. in the street outside.
BARCELONA  299
Museu Frederic Marès 1 Barcelona

This medieval doorway is from an
extensive display of Spanish
Cathedral
sculpture – the mainstay of this Plaça de la Seu. Tel 93-342 82 62. q
museum’s extraordinarily eclectic Jaume I. @ 17, V17, 45. Open 8am–
and high-quality collections. 7:30pm daily. & (lunchtime). 8 7
Begun in 1298 under Jaime II
on the foundations of a site
dating back to Visigothic times,
this compact Gothic cathedral
was not finished until the late
19th century. The interior has
beautiful Gothic cloisters and
carved 15th-century choir stalls
with painted coats of arms.
Beneath the main altar, the
crypt houses the sarcophagus
of St. Eulalia, martyred in the
4th century AD. The nave has
28 side chapels, and a vaulted
TA
ceiling that rises to 26 m (85 ft).

PI
NE
RI
. Conjunt Monumental de
A
Capella Reial de la Plaça del Rei

Santa Àgata The 14th-century Capella Reial
de Santa Àgata, with its 1466
Plaça del Rei altarpiece, is one of the best-
preserved sections of the palace.
Palau del Lloctinent
VIA L AIE TANA
The wide Catalan Gothic nave of

Barcelona Cathedral
ME I Jaume I 2 Museu d’Història

de Barcelona
Museu d’Història de Barcelona
Plaça del Rei. Tel 93-256 21 00.
Housed in a 14th-century mansion are the most q Jaume I. Open 10am–7pm Tue–
extensive subterranean Roman ruins in the world.
Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Visitors can see the streets of Roman Barcelona
S OT S – T I N E N T N AVA R R O
May 1, Jun 24, Dec 25. & (free first

and an exhibition on the city’s 13th- and
Sun of month & from 3pm every Sun).
14th-century growth. 8 by appt. ∑ museuhistoria.
bcn.cat
The Royal Palace, founded in the

Key 13th century, was the residence
of the count-kings of Barcelona.
Suggested route
A museum was formally created
here in 1940 to include the
Gothic Saló del Tinell and the
Capella de Santa Àgata, with a
painted-wood ceiling by Jaume
Huguet. Entire streets of old
0 meters 100
Barcino are accessible via walk-
0 yards 100 ways suspended over the ruins,
and an innovative expansion
project is underway.
3 La Rambla
q Drassanes, Liceu, Catalunya.
Busy around the clock, this is

one of the most famous streets
in Spain. A stroll down its tree-
shaded, central walkway to the
seafront, taking in the mansions,
shops, and cafés, makes a
perfect introduction to
Barcelona life.
The name comes from the
Arabic ramla, meaning the
dried-up bed of a seasonal river.
Barcelona’s 13th-century city
wall followed the left bank of
one such river. During the 16th
century, convents, monasteries, The Gothic interior of the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
and a university were built on
the opposite bank. Later 1889, this fascinating work of art Barcelona’s liveliest square and
demolished, they have left their is located on a narrow street just dates from the 1850s. Also
legacy in the names of the five off La Rambla. Nearby, the Gran worth visiting, the Museu de
sections of the street. Today, Teatre del Liceu, the city’s fine Cera (waxwork museum) is
La Rambla is thronged by street opera house, has been restored housed in an atmospheric
vendors, tarot readers, twice after fires in 1861 and 19th-century building, and
musicians, and mime artists. 1994. Further along is the huge holds around 300 exhibits.
Among its many famous Mercat de Sant Josep, a
buildings is the Palau Güell, a colorful food market popularly P Palau Güell
Neo-Gothic mansion that known as “La Boqueria.” Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3–5.
established the international On the opposite side of La Tel 93-472 57 75. q Drassanes, Liceu.
reputation of Catalan architect Rambla, midway between the Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Mar:
Antoni Gaudí for outstanding, Drassanes and Liceu metro to 5:30pm). & (free from 5pm Sun;
original architecture. Built in stations, the Plaça Reial is Nov–Mar: 1st Sun of month). 8 7
4 Basílica de Santa
Maria del Mar
Plaza Sta. Maria 1. Tel 93-310 23 90.
q Jaume I. Open 9am–1:30pm,
4:30–8pm daily (from 10am Sun).
This beautiful building, the

city’s favorite church, has
superb acoustics for concerts.
It is also the only surviving
example of an entirely Catalan
Gothic-style church.
The church took just 55
years to build. The speed of
its construction – unrivaled
in the Middle Ages – gave it
a unity of style both inside
and out. The west front has a
15th-century rose window of
the Coronation of the Virgin.
More stained glass, dating
from the 15th to the 18th
centuries, lights the wide
nave and high aisles.
The choir and furnishings
were destroyed during the
Spanish Civil War (1936–9),
which only serves to enhance
Monument to Columbus at the southern end of the tree-lined Rambla the sense of space and simplicity.
BARCELONA  301
5 Museu Picasso
Carrer Montcada 15–23. Tel 93-256 30
00. q Jaume I. Open 9am–7pm Tue–
Sun (to 9:30pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Jun 24, Dec 25 & 26. & (free
Sun pm & first Sun of month). 8 7
∑ museupicasso.bcn.es
One of Barcelona’s most popular

attractions, the Picasso Museum
is housed in five adjoining
palaces on the Carrer Montcada.
It was founded in 1963,
displaying works donated by
Jaime Sabartes, a great friend of
Picasso. Later, Picasso himself
donated paintings, including
some graphic works left in his
will. Several ceramic pieces
were given to the museum
by his widow, Jacqueline.
The strength of the 3,000-
piece collection is Picasso’s early The rippled facade of Gaudí’s Casa Milà “La Pedrera” in the Quadrat d’Or
drawings and paintings, such as
The First Communion (1896), parks called Nova Icària. The roof is covered in iridescent tiles
produced when he was still an area is still popularly known which recall the dragon’s scaly
adolescent. The most famous as the Vila Olímpica because back. It is the centrepiece of a
work on show is the series Las the buildings once housed trio of neighbouring mansions,
Meninas, based on Velázquez’s Olympic athletes. each designed by a leading
1656 masterpiece (see p280). On the seafront there are Modernista architect: the Casa
twin 44-floor towers – Spain’s Amatller was designed by Puig i
tallest skyscrapers. They stand Cadafalch and the Casa Lleo i
beside the Port Olímpic, also Morera was created by
built for the Olympics. Two Domènech i Montaner. Both are
levels of restaurants, stores, open for guided visits. Across
and nightclubs around the the Passeig de Gràcia is another
marina attract business people of Gaudí’s remarkable creations,
at lunchtimes and pleasure the Casa Milà, or La Pedrera,
seekers at weekends. which has a creamy, rippling
façade and is topped with a
terrace offering superb views.
7 Sagrada Família
P Casa Milà/La Pedrera
See pp302–3.
Passeig de Gràcia, 92. Tel 902 202 138
Open 9am–8:30pm (to 6:30pm mid-
Nov to mid-Feb). Closed 25 Dec &
8 Casa Batlló 11–17 Jan.
q Passeig de Gracia. Tel 93 216 0306

Open daily 9am–9pm (last adm
Yachts in the marina at the Port Olímpic, 8pm). 7
overlooked by skyscrapers
The Passeig de Gràcia is
6 Vila Olímpica Barcelona’s most elegant avenue,
and home to top fashion
q Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica.
boutiques and emblematic
The most dramatic rebuilding Modernista buildings. The most
for the 1992 Olympics was the original of these is the Casa
demolition of the old industrial Batlló, a fantastical mansion
waterfront and the laying out designed by Gaudí and
of 4 km (2 miles) of promenade completed in1906. Covered in
and pristine sandy beaches. shimmering mosaics, its design
Suddenly Barcelona seemed is said to have been inspired by
like a seaside resort, with a new the legend of St George (Sant
estate of 2,000 apartments and Jordi in Catalan), and the curving The opulent interior of the Casa Batllo
7 Sagrada Família
Europe’s most unconventional church, the Temple Expiatori
de la Sagrada Família is an emblem of a city that likes to think
of itself as individualistic. Full of symbolism inspired by nature
and striving for originality, it is the greatest work of Catalan
architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926). In 1883, a year after
work began on a Neo-Gothic church on the site, he was
given the task of completing it. Gaudí changed everything,
extemporizing as he went along. It became his life’s work
and he lived like a recluse on the site for the last few years
of his life. He is buried in the crypt. By the time of his death,
only one tower on the Nativity facade had been completed,
but several more have since been finished to his original Bell Towers
Eight of the 12 spires, one
plans. After the Civil War, work resumed and continues for each apostle, have been
today, financed by public subscription. built. Each is topped by
Venetian mosaics.
The Finished Church
Gaudí’s initial ambitions have been scaled
down over the years, but the design for
the building’s completion remains
impressive. Still to come is the
central tower, which is to
be encircled by four large
towers representing the
Evangelists. Four towers on
the Glory (south) facade
will match the existing four
on the Passion (west) and
four on the Nativity (east)
facades. An ambulatory –
like an inside-out cloister
– will run round the
outside of the building.
Entrance to Crypt
. Passion Facade
This bleak facade was completed
from 1986 to 2000 by artist Josep
Maria Subirachs. A controversial Main entrance
work, its sculpted figures are
angular and often sinister.
BARCELONA  303
Spiral Staircases VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Some of the towers
can be accessed by Practical Information
elevator, with the Calle Mallorca 401.
option to come down Tel 93-208 04 14.
by elevator or via the Open 9am–8pm (Oct–Mar: to
stone steps. There are 7pm; Nov–Feb: to 6pm). Closed
majestic views from Jan 1 & 6, Dec 25 & 26 (from 2pm).
the towers and 5 9am, 8:15pm Mon–Sat, 9am,
upper galleries. 10:30am, 11:45am, 1pm, 8:15pm
Sun. & 8 7 ground floor.
∑ sagradafamilia.org
Transport
q Sagrada Família. @ 19, 33, 34,
50, 51, B20, B24.
. Nativity Facade
The most complete part of Gaudí’s
church has doorways representing
Faith, Hope, and Charity. Scenes of the
Nativity and Christ’s childhood contain
imagery, such as doves, which
symbolize the congregation.
. Crypt
The crypt, where Gaudí is buried and
services are currently held, was begun
by the original architect, Francesc de
Paula Villar i Lozano, in 1882. A small
museum traces the careers of both
architects and the church’s
complicated history.
Nave
In the nave, a forest of fluted pillars
support five galleries above the side aisles,
while stained glass windows let in light.
KEY
1 The apse was the first part of the

church Gaudí completed. Stairs lead
down from here to the crypt below.
2 The altar canopy and altar were
installed for the Pope’s visit in 2010.
3 4 Tower with elevator
Exhibition, and later for the 1992 Miró (1893–1983) is lit by

Olympics. On the western edge natural light.
is the Poble Espanyol – a An admirer of primitive
“village” of streets and squares, Catalan art and Gaudí’s
created in 1929 to showcase Modernism, Miró developed a
Spanish architectural styles. The Surrealistic style, with vivid
Museu Arqueològic holds finds colors and fantastical forms that
from prehistoric cultures in suggested dreamlike situations.
Catalonia and the Balearic Miró himself donated the works
Islands. The Museu Etnològic displayed here. Some of the
houses artifacts from Oceania, best pieces at the museum
Africa, Asia, and Latin America. include his Barcelona Series
The summit of Montjuïc is (1939–44), a set of 50 black-and-
occupied by the huge 18th- white lithographs. Temporary
century Castell de Montjuïc, exhibitions of other artists’ work
built for the Bourbon family. The are also held here.
castle has been converted into
an International Peace Center,
with exhibitions on the history of
Pretty whitewashed houses in Poble the castle and the Montjuïc
Espanyol, Montjuïc Mountain. In summer, outdoor
film screenings take place.
9 Montjuïc
+ Castell de Montjuïc
q Espanya, Poble Sec, Paral·lel.
@ 13, 50, 150 from Plaça Espanya. Parc de Montjuïc. Tel 93-256 44 40.
q Paral·lel, then funicular & cable car.
The hill of Montjuic, rising to Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
213 m (699 ft) above the &87
commercial port on the south E Museu Arqueològic
side of the city, is Barcelona’s Passeig Santa Madrona 39. Tel 93-423
biggest recreation area. Its 21 49. q Espanya, Poble Sec. Open
museums, art galleries, Tue–Sat, Sun am & public hols. Closed
amusement park, and Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 7 ∑ mac.es
nightclubs make it popular
night and day. The hill is also a
0 Fundació Joan The Palau Nacional, home of the Museu
spectacular vantage point from
which to view the city. Miró Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
There was probably a Celt-
q Museu Nacional
Parc de Montjuïc. Tel 93-443 94 70.
Iberian settlement here before q Espanya or Paral·lel, then bus 55 or
the Romans built a temple to 150. Open Tue–Sat, Sun am & public d’Art de Catalunya
Jupiter on their Mons Jovis, hols. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25 & 26. & Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc.
which may have given Montjuïc 7 ∑ fmirobcn.org Tel 93-622 03 60. q Espanya.
its name. Another theory Open Tue–Sat, Sun am & public hols.
suggests that a Jewish cemetery Housed in a boldly modern Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & 8
on the hill inspired the name building designed in 1975 by call 93-622 03 75 in advance. 7
Mount of the Jews. Many Josep Lluís Sert, this collection
buildings were erected in of paintings, sculptures, and Originally built for the 1929
1929, for an International tapestries by Catalan artist Joan International Exhibition,
since 1934, the austere Palau
Nacional (National Palace) has
been used to house the city’s
most important art collection.
The museum contains one
of the greatest displays of
Romanesque art in the world,
its centerpiece being a series
of magnificent 12th-century
frescoes. These have been
peeled from Catalan Pyrenean
churches (to save them from
the ravages of pollution and
time) and pasted on to replicas
of the original vaulted ceilings
A section of the 18th-century castle on the summit of Montjuïc and apses they adorned.
BARCELONA  305
The most remarkable are the

wall paintings from the churches
of Santa Maria de Taüll and Sant
Climent de Taüll in Vall de Boí.
The museum’s superb Gothic
collection covers the whole of
Spain, but is particularly good
on Catalonia. Several out-
standing works by El Greco,
Velázquez, and Zurbarán are on
display in the Renaissance and
Baroque section.
w Park Güell
Carrer d’Olot. Tel 902-200 302.
q Lesseps. Open daily. & 8 7
Casa-Museu Gaudí: Tel 93-219 38 11.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Dec 25
& 26 (am). &
Designated a World Heritage

site by UNESCO, the Park Güell is
Gaudí’s most colorful creation.
He was commissioned in the
1890s by Count Eusebi Güell
to design a garden city on 20
hectares (50 acres) of family
estate. Little of Gaudí’s grand
plan for decorative buildings
among landscaped gardens
became reality. What we see
today was completed between
1910 and 1914. Mosaic-encrusted chimney by Gaudí at the entrance of Park Güell
Most atmospheric is the
Room of a Hundred Columns, an open space with a snaking and a funicular railway. The
a cavernous covered hall of balcony of colored mosaics, name, inspired by Tibidabo’s
84 crooked pillars, which is said to have the longest bench views of the city, comes from
brightened by glass and in the world. It was executed the Latin tibi dabo (I shall give
ceramic mosaics. Above it, by Josep Jujol, one of Gaudí’s you) – a reference to the
reached by a flight of steps chief collaborators. Temptation of Christ, who was
flanked by ceramic animals, The two mosaic-decorated taken up a mountain by Satan
is the Gran Plaça Circular – pavilions at the entrance are by and offered the world.
Gaudí, but the Casa-Museu The popular amusement park
Gaudí, a small pink villa where at Parc d’Atraccions first opened
he lived from 1906–26, was built in 1908. The rides were
by Francesc Berenguer. The completely renovated in the
drawings and furniture inside 1980s. While the old ones retain
are all by Gaudí. their charm, the newer ones
provide the latest in vertiginous
experiences. Their hilltop
e Tibidabo location at 517 m (1,696 ft) adds
to the thrill. Also in the park is
Plaça del Tibidabo 3–4. Tel 93-211 79
the Museu dels Autòmats,
42. q Av Tibidabo, then Tramvia Blau
& funicular, or TibiBus from Plaça which displays automated toys,
Catalunya. Amusement Park: Open jukeboxes, and gaming machines.
call to check. Closed Oct–Apr: Tibidabo is crowned by the
Mon–Fri. 7 Temple del Sagrat Cor: Temple Expiatori del Sagrat
Tel 93-417 56 86. Open daily. Cor (Church of the Sacred
∑ tibidabo.cat Heart), built with religious zeal
but little taste by Enric Sagnier
The heights of Tibidabo are between 1902 and 1911. Inside,
An ornate merry-go-round at the Parc reached by Barcelona’s last an elevator takes you up to an
d’Atraccions, Tibidabo surviving tram, the Tramvia Blau, enormous statue of Christ.
o Monestir de Montserrat
Its highest peak rising to 1,236 m (4,055 ft), the “Serrated
Mountain” (mont serrat) is a magnificent setting for
Catalonia’s holiest place, the Monastery of Montserrat,
which is surrounded by chapels and hermits’ caves.
The earliest record of a chapel on this site is from the
9th century. The monastery was founded in the 11th
century. In 1811, when the French attacked Catalonia in
the War of Independence, the monastery was destroyed
and the monks killed. Rebuilt and repopulated in 1844,
it was a beacon of Catalan culture in the Franco years.
Today, Benedictine monks live here. Visitors can hear the
famous male choir singing the Salve Regina and the
Virolai (the Montserrat hymn) at 1pm Monday to Friday,
noon and 6:45pm Sunday (except in July and August),
and from December 26 to January 8.
Plaça de Santa Maria

The focal points of the square
are two wings of the Gothic
cloister built in 1476. The
modern monastery facade
is by Françesc Folguera.
The Way of the Cross

This path passes 11
statues representing the
Stations of the Cross.
It begins near the
Plaça de l’Abat Oliba.
Montserrat
The complex includes
cafés and a hotel. A
second funicular railway
takes visitors to nature
trails above the monastery.
S PA I N  307
. Basilica Facade VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Agapit Vallmitjana
sculpted Christ and Practical Information
the apostles on the Montserrat (Barcelona province).
basilica’s Neo- Tel 93-877 77 77.
Renaissance facade. ∑ montserratvisita.com
It was built in 1900 Basilica: Open 7am–8pm Mon–
to replace the Thu; 7am–6:45pm Sat, Sun & Aug.
Renaissance facade of 5 from 9am Mon–Sat, from
the original church, 9:30am Sun & religious hols. &
consecrated in 1592. Museum: Open 10am–5:45pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–6:45pm Sat &
Sun. & 8 7
. Black Virgin Transport
La Moreneta looks down from £ to Montserrat-Aeri, then cable
behind the altar, protected behind car; or to Montserrat-Cremallera,
glass. Her wooden orb protrudes then funicular. @ from Barcelona.
for pilgrims to touch.
Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a richly
enameled altar and paintings
by Catalan artists.
KEY
1 Funicular to the holy site

of Santa Cova
2 Information Office
3 The museum holds 19th- and
20th-century Catalan paintings,
works by Picasso and Dalí, and many
The Virgin of Montserrat archaeological exhibits from West Asia.
The small wooden statue of La Moreneta 4 Gothic cloister

(“the dark one”) is the soul of Montserrat. It 5 The inner courtyard has a
is said to have been made by St. Luke and baptistry (1958), with sculptures
brought here by St. Peter in AD 50. Centuries by Charles Collet. Pilgrims may
later, the statue is believed to have been approach the Virgin through a
hidden from the Moors in the nearby Santa door to the right.
Cova (Holy Cave). Carbon dating suggests,
6 The rack railroad follows the
however, that the statue was carved around course of a historic railroad line
the 12th century. In 1881, Montserrat’s Black built in 1880.
Virgin became patroness of Catalonia.
7 Terminal for cable car from Aeri
The Black Virgin of Montserrat de Montserrat train station
Eastern Spain and the d Valencia

Balearic Islands Valencia. * 810,000. k 8 km (5
miles) SW. £ g @ n Plaza de la
Eastern Spain covers an extraordinary range of climates and Reina 19 (963-15 39 31). _ Las Fallas
landscapes, from the snowbound peaks of the Pyrenees in (Mar 15–19). ∑ turisvalencia.es
Aragón to the beaches of the Costa Blanca. The region has Valencia, Spain’s third-largest
many historical sights, including the striking Mudéjar city, is famous for its ceramics,
churches of Zaragoza and the great cathedral of Valencia. and for the spectacular fiesta
The coastal resorts of Eastern Spain are a popular destination, of Las Fallas, marked by the
erection and burning of
as are the Balearic Islands. Mallorca is the most culturally rich elaborate papier-mâché
of the islands, while Menorca is dotted with prehistoric sites. monuments (fallas).
Ibiza is chiefly known for its exuberant nightlife, but Among the city’s finest
Formentera remains largely unspoiled. Mallorquí, a dialect buildings are La Lonja, an
of the Catalan language brought by 13th-century settlers, exquisite Late Gothic hall built
is still widely spoken on the islands. between 1482 and 1498, and
the cathedral (1262) on Plaza
de la Reina. Other monuments
worth visiting include the
Gothic Palau de la Generalitat,
with its splendidly decorated
first-floor chambers, and the
17th-century Basílica de la
Virgen de los Desamparados.
Beyond the city center is the
Torres de Serranos gateway,
erected in 1391.
Valencia has a number of fine
museums. The Museo de Bellas
Artes holds 2,000 paintings and
statues dating from antiquity to
the 19th century, including six
paintings by Goya, while the
Institut Valencià de Art Modern
Cupolas of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Zaragoza (IVAM) displays modern art in a
striking contemporary building.
s Zaragoza styles. Part of the exterior is Valencia’s metro system takes
Zaragoza. * 701,000. k £ @ faced with typical Mudéjar brick tourists to the extensive
n Plaza del Pilar (902-14 20 08). and ceramic decoration, while beaches of El Cabañal and La
( Wed, Sun. inside are a fine Gothic reredos Malvarrosa, east of the city.
and splendid Flemish tapestries.
The Roman settlement of Nearby is the flamboyant P La Lonja
Caesaraugusta gave Zaragoza Mudéjar bell tower of the Plaza del Mercado s/n. Tel 96-352 54
its name. Located on the fertile Iglesia de la Magdalena, and 78 (ext. 4153). Open daily. 8
banks of the Río Ebro, it grew to remains of the Roman forum.
become Spain’s fifth-largest city, Parts of the Roman walls can
and the capital of Aragón. be seen on the opposite side
Badly damaged during the of the Plaza del Pilar near the
early 19th-century War of Mercado de Lanuza, a market
Independence, the old center with sinuous iron-work in Art
nevertheless retains several fine Nouveau style. The Museo
monuments. Overlooking the Camón Aznar houses the
vast Plaza del Pilar is the Basílica eclectic collection of an art
de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. historian, whose special interest
With its 11 brightly tiled was the locally born artist Goya.
cupolas, it is one of the city’s The Alfajería, a beautiful
most impressive sights. 11th-century Moorish palace
Also on the square are the with gardens and a mosque, lies
Gothic-Plateresque Lonja on the main road to Bilbao.
(commodities exchange),
the Palacio Episcopal, and E Museo Camón Aznar
Zaragoza’s cathedral, La Seo, Calle Espoz y Mina 23. Tel 976-39 73 Effigy burning in Valencia during the
which displays a great mix of 87. Open Tue–Sun. 7 annual fiesta of Las Fallas
S PA I N  309
g Mallorca and the La Granja, and Alfàbia, which

exudes a Moorish atmosphere,
Balearic Islands are aristocratic estates open to
k g @ Palma, Mallorca; Maó, the public. The Sanctuari de
Menorca. n Plaça de la Reina 2, Lluc, in the remote mountain
Mallorca (971-17 39 90). village of the same name,
incorporates a guesthouse,
The largest of the Balearic a museum, and a church.
islands, Mallorca has a varied
landscape and a rich cultural Menorca
heritage. A massive Gothic Menorca’s capital, Maó, has
cathedral is poised high on one of the finest harbors
the sea wall of Palma, its in the Mediterranean, an
capital. Completed in 1587 18th-century Carmelite church,
The mountain village of Castell de and known locally as Sa Seu, and a museum – the Collecció
Guadalest, Costa Blanca the cathedral is one of Spain’s Hernández Mora – housing
most breathtaking buildings. Menorcan art and antiques. The
P Palau de la Generalitat The interior was remodeled town of Ciutadella boasts an
Calle Caballeros 2. Tel 96-386 34 61. by Antoni Gaudí and a high- impressive main square and a
Open by prior appointment only. light is the Baldachino, his delightful Art Nouveau market.
E Museo de Bellas Artes bizarre wrought-iron canopy Menorca’s many Bronze Age
Calle San Pio V 9. Tel 96-387 03 00. above the altar. villages – to which there is
Open 11am–5pm Mon, 10am–7pm Also worth visiting in Palma usually free access – are mostly
Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Good Friday, are the Basílica de Sant Francesc, the work of the “talaiotic” people,
Dec 25. 8 7 the Moorish Palau de l’Almudaina, who lived from 2000–1000 BC.
and the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró
– a stunning modern building Ibiza and Formentera
f Costa Blanca housing Miró’s studio and a A popular package-tour
k g £ @ Alicante. n Rambla collection of the artist’s work. destination, Ibiza has some
Méndez Núñez 41, Alicante (96-520 Around the island, Andratx of the wildest nightclubs in
00 00). ∑ costablanca.org is a chic and affluent town Europe. An hour’s boat ride
with yachts moored along its from Ibiza harbor are the
The Costa Blanca occupies a harbor, while Pollença is a tranquil shores of Formentera.
prime stretch of Mediterranean popular tourist resort which has The capital, Sant Francesc, has
coastline. The main city, Alicante remained relatively unspoiled. a pretty 18th-century church
(Alacant), has an 18th-century The 18th-century family home and a folk museum.
Baroque town hall and a
16th-century castle, the Castillo
de Santa Bárbara. The nearest
beach to the city center is the
popular Postiguet; slightly farther
afield are the vast beaches of La
Albufereta and Sant Joan.
The massive, rocky outcrop of
the Penyal d’Ifach towers over
Calp harbor, and is one of the
Costa Blanca’s most dramatic
sights. Its summit offers
spectacular views. A short drive
inland, Castell de Guadalest is
a pretty mountain village with
castle ruins and a distinctive
belfry perched precariously
on top of a rock.
Also worth visiting are the
whitewashed hilltop town of
Altea, Denia, which has good
snorkeling, and the cliffs and
coves around Xabia. South of
Alicante, Guardamar del Segura
has a quiet beach bordered by
pine woods, while Torrevieja is
a highly developed resort with
sweeping, sandy shores. Looking across the marina to the spectacular cathedral, Palma, Mallorca
Southern Spain of these, the Iglesia de Santa

Ana, has an elegant Plateresque
One large region – Andalusia – extends across the south of portal. The Real Chancillería, or
Spain. It was here that the Moors lingered longest and left Royal Chancery (1530), boasts a
their greatest monuments in the cities of Granada, Córdoba, beautiful Renaissance facade.
Málaga, and Seville. The eight southern provinces span a wide Also worth visiting in the
Albaicín district is the Museo
range of landscapes, with deserts in the east, sandy beaches Arqueológico, with Iberian,
along the Costa del Sol, and sherry-producing vineyards Phoenician, and Roman finds.
around Jerez. From flamingoes in the wetland Doñana From one end of the district,
National Park to flamenco – the uniquely Andalusian art a road leads up to Sacromonte.
form – the region has something to interest every visitor. Granada’s gypsies once lived in
the caves lining this hillside.
Their legacy lives on in the
flamenco shows performed
here in the evenings.
From the northern side of the
Alhambra, a footpath leads to
the Generalife (see pp312–13),
the country estate of the Nasrid
kings. The gardens, begun in
the 13th century, originally
contained orchards and pastures.
Today, their lush greenery, pools,
and graceful water fountains
provide a magical setting for
the many events staged each
year between mid-June and
early July on the occasion of
the city’s international music
Antonio Palamino’s cupola in the Monasterio de la Cartuja, Granada and dance festival.
h Granada houses Carrara marble figures of E Museo Casa de los Tiros

the Catholic Monarchs, whose Calle Pavaneras 19. Tel 958-57 54 66.
Granada. * 239,000. k 12 km Open Tue–Sun. Closed main public
bodies lie in the crypt. Equally
(7 miles) SW. £ @ n Plaza del hols. & 7
Carmen 9 (902-40 50 45). impressive are the Museo Casa
_ Corpus Christi (May–Jun). de los Tiros, a fortress-like palace P Palacio de la Madraza
∑ granadatur.com built in Mudéjar style, and the Calle Oficios 14. Tel 958-24 34 84.
Monasterio de la Cartuja, both Open 10:30am–1pm & 3:30–6:30pm
The ancient city of Granada, dating from the 16th century. Mon–Sat, 11am–1pm Sun.
founded by the Iberians, was Founded by a Christian warrior, E Museo Arqueológico
for 250 years the capital of a the latter has a dazzling cupola Carrera del Darro 43. Tel 958-57
Moorish kingdom. The Nasrid by Antonio Palomino. 54 08. Closed for renovations.
dynasty, who ruled from 1238 Relics of the Moorish era in
until 1492, when Granada fell the old town include the Corral
to the Catholic Monarchs, left del Carbón, a former storehouse
some outstanding examples of and inn for merchants, and the
Moorish architecture here. The Palacio de la Madraza. Originally
greatest legacy of their rule is an Arab university, the palace
the spectacular palace complex has a splendid Moorish hall with
of the Alhambra (see pp312–13). a finely decorated mihrab
Under the Nasrids, the city (prayer niche). The palace holds
enjoyed a golden age, temporary art exhibitions.
acquiring an international Granada’s Moorish ancestry
reputation as a major cultural is most evident in the hillside
center. Later, under Christian Albaicín district, which faces the
rule, the city became a focus Alhambra. Along its cobbled
for the Renaissance. alleys stand cármenes – villas
Granada’s 16th-century with Moorish decor and
Gothic cathedral has a gardens – and El Bañuelo, the
Renaissance facade and a 11th-century brick-vaulted Arab
Baroque west front. Nearby, the baths. The churches here were
Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), mostly built on the sites of Entrance to the Moorish mihrab in the
built between 1505 and 1507, mosques. The most beautiful Palacio de la Madraza, Granada
S PA I N  311
by Diego de Siloé. The k Costa del Sol

half-built second tower, k g £ @ Málaga. n Avda
abandoned in 1765, Cervantes 1, Málaga (95-220 96 03).
gave the cathedral its ∑ visitcostadelsol.com
nickname: La Manquita
(“the one-armed one”). With its year-round sunshine and
The Casa Natal varied coastline, the Costa del
de Picasso, where the Sol attracts crowds of vacationers
painter spent his early every year and also has half a
years, is now the million foreign residents.
headquarters of the Its most stylish resort is
international Picasso Marbella, frequented by royalty
Foundation, while the and film stars, who spend their
Museo Picasso Málaga summers here in the smart villas
is home to about 300 of or luxury hotels overlooking the
his works. area’s 28 beaches. Puerto Banús
The city’s vast is its ostentatious marina. In
fortress – the Alcazaba winter, the major attraction is
– was built between the golf: 30 of Europe’s finest golf
8th and 11th centuries. courses lie just inland.
The main facade of Málaga’s unusual cathedral, Its major attractions are Among the highlights of
consecrated in 1588 Phoenician, Roman, and Marbella’s old town is the Museo
Moorish artifacts, as well de Grabado Contemporáneo,
j Málaga as a Roman theater. The ruined which displays some of Picasso’s
Castillo de Gibralfaro, a least-known work, the peaceful
Málaga. * 570,000. k g £ @
n Avda. Cervantes 1 (95-220 96 03).
14th-century Moorish castle, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la
lies behind the Alcazaba. Encarnación, and the town hall,
Málaga, the second-largest city with its exquisite, panelled
in Andalusia, was a thriving port E Museo Picasso Málaga Mudéjar ceiling.
under Phoenician, Roman, and C/San Agustín 8. Tel 95-212 76 00. Sotogrande, to the west of
Moorish rule. It also flourished Open daily. Closed Dec 25, Jan 1 & 6. Marbella, is an exclusive resort.
during the 19th century, when & 8 7 ∑ museopicasso The marina is fronted by good
sweet Málaga wine was one of malaga.org seafood restaurants. In spite of
Europe’s most popular drinks. + Alcazaba tourism, Estepona preserves its
At the heart of the old town is Calle Alcazabilla. Tel 95-222 72 30. Spanish character, with pretty
the cathedral, begun in 1528 Open 9am–8pm daily. tree-filled squares and tapas bars.
To the east are the package-
holiday resorts of Fuengirola
Moorish Spain
and Torremolinos. Once the
In the 8th century, the brash haunt of young northern
Iberian Peninsula came European tourists, they are now
almost entirely under more family-oriented.
Moorish rule. The Muslim
settlers called Spain “Al
Andalus.” A powerful
caliphate was established in
Córdoba, which became the
center of one of the most
brilliant civilizations of early-
medieval Europe. The Moors
Typical Moorish alcazaba, dating from the erected alcazabas (castles
10th century built into city ramparts) and
palaces surrounded by
patios, pools, and gardens, making lavish use of arches, stucco work,
glazed wall tiles (azulejos), and ornamental calligraphy. They also
introduced new crops to Spain, such as oranges and rice. By the 11th
century, the caliphate had collapsed into 30 taifas (splinter states) and
the northern Christian kingdoms were reconquering parts of Moorish
Spain. In 1492, the Catholic Monarchs took Granada, its last stronghold.
Though many Muslims were expelled from Spain following the
Reconquest, some were employed to build new churches and palaces
for the Christian rulers. Known as Mudéjares (the name literally means
“those permitted to stay”), these craftsmen developed a hybrid
Christian-Islamic style that survived into the 18th century.
Player on a green at one of Marbella’s
high-profile golf courses
Granada: the Alhambra

A magical use of space, light, water, and
decoration characterizes this most sensual
piece of architecture. It was built under Ismail I,
Yusuf I, and Muhammad V, caliphs when the
Nasrid dynasty (1238– 1492) ruled Granada.
Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they created their idea of paradise on earth.
Modest materials were used (plaster, timber,
and tiles), but they were superbly worked.
Although the Alhambra suffered decay and . Salón de Embajadores
pillage, including an attempt by Napoleon’s The ceiling of this sumptuous
throne room, built
troops to blow it up, it has been restored and between 1334 and
its delicate craftsmanship still dazzles the eye. 1354, represents the
seven heavens of the
Muslim cosmos.
. Patio de
Arrayanes
This pool, set amid
myrtle hedges and
graceful arcades,
reflects light into the
surrounding halls.
Entrance
KEY
1 Patio de Machuca 5 Jardín de Lindaraja sumptuous feasts. Beautiful

2 Patio del Mexuar council ceiling paintings on leather, from
6 Baños Reales
chamber, was completed in the 14th century, depict tales of
7 Sala de las Dos Hermanas, hunting and chivalry.
1365, and is where the reigning
with its spectacular honeycomb
sultan listened to the petitions 9 Puerta de la Rawda
dome, is regarded as the
of his subjects and met with
ultimate example of Spanish 0 The Palace of Charles V
his ministers.
Islamic architecture. (1526) houses a collection
3 Sala de la Barca of Spanish Islamic art,
8 Sala de los Reyes is a great
4 Washington Irving’s banqueting hall was used to whose highlight is the
apartments hold extravagant parties and Alhambra vase.

S PA I N  313
Palacio del Partal

A pavilion with an
arched portico and
a tower is all that
For the Alhambra and Generalife.
remains of this
Tel 958-02 79 71. Open 8:30am–
palace, the oldest
8pm daily (mid-Oct–mid-Mar: to
building in the
6pm). Night visits: mid-Mar–mid-
Alhambra.
Oct: 9–10:30pm Tue–Thu, Fri &
Sat; 10–11:30pm Wed & Sat; mid-
Oct–mid-Mar: 8–9:30pm Fri & Sat.
& (reservations are essential).
8 ∑ alhambra-patronato.es
or alhambra-tickets.es
Transport
@ C3, C4.
. Sala de los Abencerrajes

This hall takes its name from a
noble family – rivals of the last
Nasrid ruler, Boabdil. Legend claims
he had the family massacred while
they attended a banquet here. The
geometrical ceiling was inspired by
Pythagoras’ theorem.
. Patio de los Leones

Built by Muhammad V, this
patio is lined with arcades
supported by 124 slender
marble columns. At its
center, a fountain rests on
12 stocky marble lions.
To the Generalife
Plan of the Alhambra
Main gate
Key
Palacios Nazaríes
(shown above)
Palace of Charles V
The Alhambra complex includes Alcazaba
the Casas Reales, the 13th-century
Gardens
Alcazaba, the 16th-century Palace of
Charles V, and the Generalife (see p310), Iglesia de Santa Maria
which is located just off the map. Other buildings
The small Mudéjar-style

synagogue (c.1315) has
decorative plasterwork with
Hebrew script. Nearby, the
Museo Taurino, a bullfighting
museum, contains a replica
of the tomb of Manolete, a
famous matador, and the hide
of the bull that killed him.
A Roman bridge spanning
the Río Guadalquivir links the
old town to the 14th-century
Torre de la Calahorra. This
defensive tower houses a
small museum depicting
life in 10th-century Córdoba.
In the newer part of the city,
the Museo Arqueológico
displays Roman and Moorish
artifacts. The Museo de Bellas
Artes contains sculptures by
local artist Mateo Inurria (1867–
1924) and paintings by Murillo
and Zurbarán. Other notable
buildings are the beautiful
17th-century Palacio de
Viana, filled with works of art,
and the handsome arcades of
The Puente Nuevo, spanning the deep Tajo gorge at Ronda the Plaza de la Corredera.
l Ronda de Toros and its bullfighting + Alcázar de los Reyes
Málaga. * 37,000. £ @ n Plaza museum, the Museo Taurino, Cristianos
de España 9 (95-287 12 72). attract aficionados from all Calle Caballerizas Reales s/n.
over the country. Tel 957-20 17 16. Open 8:30am–
Ronda sits on a massive 8:45pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–4:30pm
rocky outcrop, straddling a P Plaza de Toros & Sat, 8:30am–2:30pm Sun.
Museo Taurino Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & (free
precipitous limestone cleft.
Calle Virgen de la Paz. Tel 952-87 41 8:30–9:30am Tue–Fri).
Because of its impregnable ∑ alcazardelosreyescristianos.
position, it was one of the last 32. Open daily. & 7
cordoba.es
Moorish bastions, finally falling
to the Christians in 1485.
On the south side perches a z Córdoba x Seville
classic pueblo blanco – a white Córdoba. * 328,000. £ @
town – so-called because the See pp318–21.
n Plaza del Triunfo (902-20 17 74).
houses are whitewashed in
the Moorish tradition. With its glorious mosque and
Among Ronda’s historic pretty Moorish patios, Córdoba
buildings is the Palacio is northern Andalusia’s star
Mondragón, adorned with attraction. In the 10th century,
original Moorish mosaics. The the city enjoyed a golden age
facade of the 18th-century as the western capital of the
Palacio del Marqués de Islamic empire.
Salvatierra is decorated with Córdoba’s most impressive
images of South American Moorish monument is the
Indians. From the Casa del mighty Mezquita (see pp316–17).
Rey Moro, built on the site To the west of its towering
of a Moorish palace, 365 walls, the Alcázar de los Reyes
steps lead down to the river. Cristianos, in the old Jewish
Across the Puente Nuevo, quarter, is a stunning
or “New Bridge,” which spans 14th-century palace-fortress
the deep Tajo gorge, is the built by Alfonso XI. The Catholic
modern town, and the site of Monarchs stayed here during
one of Spain’s oldest bullrings. their campaign to wrest Water gardens at the Alcázar de los Reyes
Inaugurated in 1785, the Plaza Granada from Moorish rule. Cristianos, Córdoba
S PA I N  315
b Cádiz
Cádiz. * 123,200. £ @ n Paseo
de Canalejas (956-24 10 01) or Avda
Ramón de Carranza (956-28 56 01).
Surrounded almost entirely

by water, Cádiz lays claim to
being Europe’s oldest city. After
the Catholic reconquest, the
city prospered on wealth
brought from the New World.
Modern Cádiz is a busy port,
with a pleasant waterfront, while
the old town has narrow alleys
and lively markets. The Baroque
and Neoclassical cathedral, with
Marshes and sand dunes of the Parque Nacional de Doñana its dome of golden-yellow tiles,
is one of Spain’s largest.
c Parque Nacional are held on Thursdays. The Museo de Cádiz
de Doñana On the Plaza de San has one of the largest
Juan, the 18th-century art collections in
Huelva & Sevilla. n 959-43 96 27.
Palacio de Penmartín Andalusia, and arch-
Park interior: Open summer: Mon–Sat;
winter: Tue–Sun. Tel 959-43 04 32 for
houses the Centro aeological exhibits chart
reservations. & 7 Andaluz de Flamenco, with the history of the city.
exhibitions on this music The 18th-century
Doñana National Park is ranked and dance tradition. The Oratorio de San Felipe
among Europe’s greatest 11th-century Alcázar Neri has been a shrine to
wetlands, comprising more encompasses a well- liberalism since 1812,
than 100,000 hectares (247,105 preserved mosque, now a when a provisional
acres) of marshes and sand church. Just to the government
dunes. The area, officially north is the assembled in the
protected since 1969, was once cathedral. Its church to try to
a ducal hunting ground (coto). most famous establish Spain’s
A road runs through part treasure is, The Golden chalice from the treasury first constitutional
of the park, with information Sleeping Girl of Cádiz cathedral monarchy. The
points located along it. There by Zurbarán. Torre Tavira, an
are also several self-guided 18th-century watchtower with
walks on the park outskirts, but  Sherry Bodegas a camera obscura, offers
the interior can be visited on González Byass: Calle Manuel María spectacular views of the city.
official guided day tours only. González 12, Jerez. Tel 956-35 70 00.
Doñana is home to wild cattle, & 7 Pedro Domecq: Calle San E Museo de Cádiz
fallow and red deer, and the lynx Ildefonso 3, Jerez. Tel 956-15 15 00. Plaza de Mina. Tel 956-20 33 68.
– one of Europe’s rarest mammals. Open Mon–Sat. & Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. 7
The greater flamingo and the
rare imperial eagle can also be
Tapas
seen. It is also a stopping place
for thousands of migratory birds. The light snacks known as tapas – and sometimes as pinchos –
originated in Andalusia in the 19th century as an
accompaniment to sherry. The name derives from
v Jerez de la a bartender’s practice of covering a glass with a
Frontera saucer, or tapa (cover), to keep out flies. The
custom progressed to a chunk of cheese
Cádiz. * 209,000. k £ @
or a few olives placed on a platter
n Alameda Cristina 7 (956-33 88 74).
to serve with a drink. Today
∑ turismojerez.com
Olives tapas range from cold snacks
to elaborately prepared hot
Jerez is the capital of sherry dishes, generally eaten
production and many bodegas standing at the bar rather
(cellars) can be visited here than sitting at a table. Almost
including González Byass and every village in Spain has a
Pedro Domecq. Jamón serrano tapas bar. In the larger towns,
The city is also famous for its (salt-cured ham) it is customary to move from
Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte bar to bar, sampling the
Patatas bravas (potatoes
Ecuestre, a school of equestrian specialties of each.
in spicy tomato sauce)
skills. Public-dressage displays
Córdoba: the Mezquita

Córdoba’s great mosque, dating back 12
centuries, embodied the power of Islam on
the Iberian Peninsula. Abd al Rahman I
built the original mosque between 785
and 787. The building evolved over the
centuries, blending many architectural
forms. In the 10th century, al Hakam II
made some of the most lavish
additions, including the elaborate Patio de los Naranjos
mihrab (prayer niche) and the Orange trees grow in the courtyard where
the faithful washed before prayer.
maqsura (caliph’s enclosure). During
the 16th century, a cathedral was
built in the heart of the mosque,
part of which was destroyed.
KEY
1 The Puerta de San Esteban

is set in a section of wall from an
earlier Visigothic church.
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
3 Torre del Alminar is a bell tower,
93 m (305 ft) high, built on the
site of the original minaret. Steep
steps lead to the top for a fine
view of the city.
4 Capilla Mayor
5 The cathedral choir has
Churrigueresque – excessive
Baroque-style – stalls carved by
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758.
6 Capilla Real
Expansion of
the Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the
original mosque. Extensions
were added by Abd al
Rahman II, al Hakam II,
and al Mansur.
Key to Additions
Original mosque (785–787)
Added by Abd al Rahman II (833)
Added by al Hakam II (c.961)
Added by al Mansur (c.987–90)
Patio de los Naranjos

S PA I N  317
Cathedral
Part of the mosque
was destroyed to
accommodate the
C/Cardenal Herrero 1. Tel 957 47
cathedral, begun in
05 12. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
1523. Featuring an
8:30–11:30am, 3–7pm Sun (winter:
Italianate dome, it
8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–
was designed chiefly
11:30am & 3–6pm Sun). & (free
by members of the
8:30–9:30am Mon–Sat). 5 9:30am
Hernán Ruiz family.
Mon–Sat, noon & 1:30pm Sun. 7
. Arches and Pillars

More than 850 columns of granite, jasper,
and marble support the roof, creating a
dazzling visual effect. Many were taken
from Roman and Visigothic buildings.
. Mihrab
This prayer niche,
richly ornamented, . Capilla de Villaviciosa
held a gilded copy The first Christian chapel was
of the Koran. The worn built in the mosque in 1371
flagstones indicate where by Mudéjar craftsmen (see
pilgrims circled it seven p311). Its multi-lobed arches
times on their knees. are stunning.
x Street by Street: Seville

The maze of narrow streets that makes up the Barrio de
Santa Cruz represents Seville at its most romantic and
compact. This is a good place to begin an exploration of
the city, since many of the best-known sights are located
here. As well as the expected souvenir shops, tapas bars,
and strolling guitarists, there are plenty of picturesque
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
alleys, hidden plazas, and flower-decked patios to reward
This delightful square, which is often
the casual wanderer. Once a Jewish ghetto, this area boasts lined with horse-drawn carriages,
many restored buildings, with characteristic window grilles has an early 20th-century fountain
that are now a harmonious mix of upscale residences and by José Lafita.
tourist accommodations. Good restaurants and bars
make the area well worth an evening visit.
Palacio Arzobispal,
the 18th-century
Archbishop’s Palace,
AZA VIRG O
is still used by GAG
PL EN EOS
Seville’s clergy. M AT
ES
D E L Y
Bus station OS RE
AV
EN
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ID
UB
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A
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ER
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. Cathedral and
CI
La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral
ON
and its Moorish bell tower S

are Seville’s most popular A
Convento de la M
sights (see p320). Encarnación T
O
A
O
R
(1591) T
A
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N
A
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Archivo de Indias Plaza del Triunfo

Built in the 16th The square was built
century as a merchants’ to celebrate the city’s
exchange, the Archive survival of the great
of the Indies now earthquake of 1755.
houses documents and In the center is a
maps relating to the modern statue of
Spanish colonization the Virgin Mary.
of the Americas.
SEVILLE  319
Calle Mateos Gago VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This street is filled with
souvenir stores and tapas Practical Information
bars. Bar Giralda at No.2, Sevilla. * 704,000.
whose vaults are the remains n Avda de la Constitución 21
of a Moorish bath, is popular (95-478 75 78), Plaza del Triunfo
for its wide variety of tapas. (95-421 00 05). Archivo de Indias
Tel 95-450 05 28.
Transport
Train k 4 km (2.5 miles) NE. £ Santa
station Justa, Avda de Kansas City. @
Plaza de Armas, Calle de Arjona.
The Plaza Santa

MESON Cruz is adorned by
DEL MO
O
RO an ornate iron
IS
SA
cross from 1692.
NC
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EN ES
M A
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Hospital de los Venerables

C
DA
The 17th-century home

for elderly priests has a
splendidly restored
Baroque church (see p320).
Callejón del Agua

This whitewashed alley-
way offers glimpses of
enchanting plant-filled
patios, such as the one
pictured here.
0 meters 50
. Real Alcázar 0 yards 50

Seville’s Royal Palace is a
rewarding combination
of exquisite Mudéjar (see Key
p311) craftsmanship, regal
grandeur, and landscaped Suggested route
gardens (see p320).
palaces that had been built in gardens of the Real Alcázar

the 12th century by the Moors. provide a delightful refuge
Craftsmen from Granada and from the bustle of Seville.
Toledo created a stunning
complex of Mudéjar patios and P Hospital de los
halls, the Palacio Pedro I, now Venerables
at the heart of Seville’s Real Plaza de los Venerables 8. Tel 95-456
Alcázar. Successive monarchs 26 96. Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm daily.
added their own distinguishing Closed Jan 1, Good Friday, Dec 25.
marks: Isabel I dispatched & (free Sun pm). 8 7
navigators to explore the This late 17th-century home
New World from her Casa de for elderly priests has been
Contratación, while Carlos I restored as a cultural center,
(the Holy Roman Emperor its upper floors, cellar, and
Charles V) had grandiose, richly infirmary serving as exhibition
decorated apartments built. galleries. The Hospital church
A star feature of the palace is a showcase of Baroque
is the Salón de Embajadores splendors, with frescoes by both
(Ambassadors’ Hall), with its Juan de Valdés Leal and his son
The mighty Giralda bell tower, rising above dazzling dome of carved and Lucas Valdés. There are also fine
the Gothic cathedral gilded, interlaced wood. The sculptures by Pedro Roldán.
hall overlooks the Patio de
R Cathedral and La Giralda las Doncellas (Patio of the P Torre del Oro
Avda de la Constitución. Tel 954-21 49 Maidens), which boasts some Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. Tel 95-422
71. Open 11am–5pm Mon–Sat exquisite plasterwork and has 24 19. Open 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri,
(Jul & Aug: 9:30am–4pm), 2:30–6pm been restored to its function 10:30am–7pm Sat & Sun. Closed Aug.
Sun. & 7 except Giralda tower. as a “floating garden,” as it & except Mon.
Seville’s cathedral occupies the was during Pedro I’s reign. The Moors built the Torre del Oro
site of a great mosque, built by Laid out with terraces, (Tower of Gold) as a defensive
the Almohads in the late 12th fountains, and pavilions, the lookout in 1220. Its turret was not
century. La Giralda, its huge bell
tower, and the beautiful Patio
de los Naranjos, which is filled
with orange trees, are a legacy
of this Moorish structure. Work
on the Christian cathedral
began in 1401. The bronze
spheres on the original Moorish
minaret were replaced by
Christian symbols, though the
Giralda did not assume its
present appearance until 1568.
Today, it is crowned by a bronze
sculpture portraying Faith. This
weathervane (giraldillo) has
given the tower its name.
Visitors can climb La Giralda
for superb views of the city.
The cathedral houses many
fine works of art, including the
stunning high-altar reredos,
with its 44 gilded reliefs, carved
by Spanish and Flemish
sculptors in 1482–1564.
P Real Alcázar
Patio de Banderas. Tel 95-450 23 24.
Open 9:30am–7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to
5pm); Jul & Aug: also open at night for
concerts. Closed Jan 1 & 6, Good Fri,
Sep 25. & ∑ alcazarsevilla.org
In 1364, Pedro I of Castile
ordered the construction of
a royal residence within the Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables
SEVILLE  321
Flamenco
More than just a dance,
flamenco is an artistic
expression of the joys and
sorrows of life. A uniquely
Andalusian art, its origins are
hard to trace. Gypsies may
have been the main creators
of the art, mixing their own
Indian-influenced culture
with existing Moorish and
Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Andalusian folklore, and with
Jewish and Christian music.
added until 1760. The gold in the for this park. Its most extravagant Gypsies were already living in
tower’s name may refer to the feature is the semicircular Plaza Andalusia by the early Middle
gilded azulejos (ceramic tiles) that de España, designed by Aníbal Ages, but only in the 18th
once clad its walls, or to treasures González. At the center of the century did flamenco begin
from the Americas unloaded park, the Pabellón Mudéjar to develop into its present
here. It now houses the Museo houses the Museo de Artes y form. There are many styles
Marítimo, which exhibits Costumbres Populares, with of cante (song) from different
maritime maps and antiques. displays of traditional parts of Andalusia,
Andalusian folk arts. but no strict
P Plaza de Toros de la choreography –
Maestranza P Setas de Sevilla dancers
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12. (Metropol Parasol) (bailaores)
Tel 95-421 03 15. Open daily. Plaza de la Encarnación. Tel 606-63 improvise from
Closed for bullfights, Dec 25. & 8 52 14. Open daily. basic movements,
∑ setasdesevilla.com following the
Built between 1761 and 1881, rhythm of the guitar
Seville’s famous bullring seats These huge mushroom- and their feelings.
up to 14,000 spectators. Visitors shaped parasols, designed by
can take a guided tour and German architect Jürgen
explore the small museum. Mayer, are topped with a Flamenco dancer
Between Easter and October, mirador (viewing platform) (bailaora)
bullfights are held on Sunday and panoramic restaurant,
evening. Tickets can be bought while underneath there
at the bullring or online at www. are Roman and medieval
plazadetoroslamaestranza.com. ruins (visible in the Antiquarium
museum), shops, and a market.
E Museo de Bellas Artes
Plaza del Museo 9. Tel 955-54 29 42. R Monasterio de Santa buried in the crypt of its church
Open 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, María de las Cuevas between 1507 and 1542. The
10am–5pm Sun. & 7 Calle Americo Vespucio 2, Isla de monastery stands at the heart
The magnificent Convento de la Cartuja. Tel 95-503 70 70. Open of the Isla de Cartuja, the site of
la Merced Calzada houses one 11am–9pm Tue–Sat, Sun am. & (free Expo ’92, and also houses the
of Spain’s best art museums. Sat). 8 by prior appt only. 7 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo,
Delightful tree-filled patios, This 15th-century Carthusian with its collection of Spanish and
colorful azulejos, and a church monastery was inhabited by international art. The Isla Mágica
with a beautiful Baroque painted monks until 1836. Columbus lay theme park is also nearby.
ceiling make this a wonderful
setting for the fine works of art.
The museum’s collection of
Spanish art and sculpture –
which covers all periods from
the medieval to the modern –
focuses on the work of the
Seville School artists. Among
the star attractions are
masterpieces by Murillo, Juan
de Valdés Leal, and Zurbarán.
Y Parque María Luisa

In 1893, Princess María Luisa
donated part of the grounds of
the Palacio San Telmo to the city Seville’s dazzling Plaza de España in the Parque María Luisa
Practical Information price and ask the sales assistant

for a formulario (tax-exemption
Spain’s tourist-information service is efficient and extensive, form). On leaving Spain, you
with offices in most towns providing advice on lodgings, must ask customs to stamp your
restaurants, and local events. In August, many businesses formulario (this must be within
six months of the purchase).
close and roads are busy. It is worth finding out whether
You receive the refund by mail
local fiestas will coincide with your visit, as while these are or on your credit card account.
enjoyable, they may also cause closures. Free Wi-Fi is available
in many hotels and cafés, and some major cities offer free
Personal Security
Wi-Fi hotspots. When changing money, credit cards often
offer the best exchange rate and can be used in cash Violent crime is rare in Spain.
Petty theft is the main problem
dispensers. The Spanish lunch hour lasts from 2pm to 5pm.
in the cities, especially Madrid,
Barcelona, and Seville, where
When to Visit to 2pm, and, usually, reopen visitors should be extra vigilant.
August is Spain’s busiest vacation from 5pm to 8pm. The main
month. Spanish locals on holiday museums stay open through
and millions of foreign tourists lunch. Most charge for entry. Police
flock to the coast. Easter is a Some churches may only be There are essentially three types
good time to visit: temperatures opened for services. of police force in Spain. The
are more bearable, especially in In smaller towns, churches, Guardia Civil (National Guard)
the south, the countryside is in castles, and other sights are mainly police rural areas and
bloom, and some of the often kept locked. The key, impose fines for traffic offenses.
country’s most important fiestas available on request, will be The Policía Nacional operate
take place. In the mountains the lodged in a neighboring house, in larger towns. They are
ski season is from mid- in the town hall, or perhaps with replaced by a regional force,
December until early March. the local bar owners. the Ertzaintza, in the Basque
country, and by the Mossos
d’Esquadra in Catalonia. The
Tourist Information Visa Requirements Policía Local, also called Policía
All major cities and towns have a and Customs Municipal or Guardia Urbana,
tourist information office (oficina Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, operate independently in
de turismo), which will provide Iceland, and Norway do not each town and have a branch
town plans, lists of hotels and require a visa for entry to Spain. for city traffic control.
restaurants, and details of local A list of entry requirements – All three services will direct
activities. There is a Spanish available from Spanish you to the relevant authority
National Tourist Office in embassies – specifies other in the event of an incident
several large cities worldwide; countries, including the US, requiring police help.
the website is a useful resource. Canada, Australia, and New
Zealand, whose nationals
do not need a visa for visits Emergency Services
Opening Hours of less than 90 days. There is one pan-European
Most monuments and Non-EU residents can reclaim emergency telephone number
museums in Spain close on IVA (sales tax) on some single for police, fire, and ambulance:
Mondays. On other days, they items at stores participating in call 112. There are also
are generally open from 10am the scheme. You pay the full telephone numbers for
The Climate of Spain

MADRID SEVILLE
Spain’s large landmass, with
its mountain ranges and the 35/95
°C/ºF °C/ºF
influences of the Atlantic 32/90
and Mediterranean, accounts 21/70
25/77
20/68 18/64
for a varied climate. The 17/63 16/61 16/61
13/55
eastern and southern coasts 8/46 10/50 10/50
5/41 5/41
and islands have mild winters; 0/32
however, winter temperatures 8 12 6.5 5 6 8 4.5 2
in the interior often fall below hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
freezing. Summers everywhere 50 58 55 55
48 11 53 39
are hot, except in upland areas. mm mm mm mm
mm mm mm mm
Northern Spain is the wettest
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
area all year round.
S PA I N  323
individual emergency services. providing a booking service for Visa and Mastercard
For emergency medical treat accessible hotels. are accepted in most places.
ment, call 112 for an ambulance,
or go to the nearest hospital
emergency room (urgencias). Language and Etiquette Communications
The Spanish commonly greet Several serviceproviders in
and say goodbye to strangers at Spain, including Movistar,
Health Issues bus stops and in stores and Vodafone, Orange, and Yoigo,
Spanish pharmacists have wide other public places. People offer mobile and internet
responsibilities. They can advise shake hands or kiss each other services. You can buy SIMs or
and, in certain cases, prescribe on the cheek when introduced purchase payasyougo
without consulting a doctor and whenever they meet. In mobiles at El Corte Inglés stores,
(antibiotics not included). In a Catalonia and the Basque branches of the Phone House,
nonemergency, a farmaceútico country, regional languages at their own shops, or online.
is a good person to see first. are as much in use as the Airports, most hotels, and
It is usually easy to find one national tongue, which is several cafés and bars offer free
who speaks English. Castilian Spanish. or inexpensive WiFi for those
The pharmacy (farmacia) sign traveling with their own devices.
is a green or red illuminated There are very few phone boxes,
cross. Those open at night are Banking and Currency but you can make inexpensive
listed in the windows of all the The Spanish unit of currency international phone calls from
local pharmacies. is the euro (see p23). Generally, public telephone offices, which
banks are open from 8am to are called locutorios and usually
2pm Monday to Friday. Some found near train stations.
Facilities for the Disabled branches are also open on The Spanish postal service,
The Spanish National Tourist Thursday afternoon. Some Correos, provides an efficient
Office has a number of useful have a foreign exchange desk service, and there are also
publications in English for with the sign Cambio or courier firms for urgent
disabled travelers, many of Extranjero. Take some form communications. The main
which are downloadable from of ID when changing money. Correos offices open from
their website. Most city tourist Bureaux de change charge 8:30am to 8:30pm Monday to
websites also offer a range of higher rates of commission, Friday and from 9am to 2pm
useful materials for disabled but are open longer hours. Saturday. Conveniently, you will
travelers. Viajes Ilunion offers The best rate is to be found find that stamps for letters and
accessible vacations in by withdrawing cash from postcards can also be bought
Spain and abroad, as well as an ATM or paying by credit card. from an estanco.
DIRECTORY
Spanish National Tourist Offices Floor, 28046 Madrid. Police
Tourist Offices in Spain Tel 91353 66 00. Tel 112.
Abroad
Canada
Barcelona Ambulance
Canada Torre Espacio, Paseo
Plaça de Catalunya 17–S, Tel 112.
de la Castellana 259D,
2 Bloor West, 08002 Barcelona. 28046 Madrid.
Suite 3402, Toronto, Tel 93285 38 34. Fire Brigade
Tel 91382 84 00.
ON, M4W 3E2. (Bomberos)
Madrid UK
Tel 416961 31 31. Tel 112.
Plaza Mayor 27, 28012 Torre Espacio, Paseo
Madrid. Tel 91454 44 10. de la Castellana 259D,
UK Facilities for the
∑ esmadrid.com 28046 Madrid.
64 North Row, Disabled
Tel 91714 63 00.
London W1K 7DE. Seville
Avenida de la US Spanish National
Tel 0207317 2011.
Calle Serrano 75,
∑ spain.info
Constitución 21b, Tourist Office
28006 Madrid.
41004 Seville. ∑ spain.info/en/
Tel 91587 22 00.
US Tel 95478 75 78.
informacion-practica/
60 East 42nd St, Emergency
Embassies turismo-accesible
Suite 5300 (53rd floor), Numbers
New York, NY 101650039. Australia Viajes Ilunion
Emergency:
Tel 212265 8822. Torre Espacio, Paseo de All Services Tel 90220 00 11.
∑ spain.info la Castellana 259D, 24th Tel 112 (most large cities). ∑ viajes.ilunion.com
Travel Information bus tours are run by Madrid

City Tour.
Spain has an increasingly efficient transportation system. All the Barcelona’s metro system
major cities and islands have airports, and flights from around generally runs from 5am to
the globe arrive at those of Madrid and Barcelona. Both the road midnight; on Fridays it stays
open until 2am, and all night on
and rail networks were greatly improved during the 1980s and
Saturdays. There are various
in the run-up to the Barcelona Olympics in 1992. Intercity rail types of travelcard available,
services are reliable, but buses are a faster and more frequent valid for bus, metro, and the
option between smaller towns. In much of rural Spain, however, FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat
public transportation is limited and a car is the most practical de Catalunya) suburban train
solution for getting around. Ferries connect mainland Spain network. The city buses in
Barcelona are usually colored
with the Balearic Islands, Morocco, and ports in the UK. white and red. The Nitbus (night
bus) runs from around 10pm to
5am; and the Aerobús provides
Flying to Spain Domestic Flights an excellent service between
Of the several US airlines serving Most of Spain’s domestic flights the Plaça de Catalunya and the
Spain, American Airlines and have traditionally been two terminals of the airport.
Delta Air Lines operate direct operated by Iberia, however, Sightseeing tours in
flights to both Madrid and this monopoly has been Barcelona are operated by
Barcelona, while United Airlines broken to encourage Bus Turístic on three routes
flies to Barcelona. Air Europa and competition. The two main from Plaça de Catalunya.
Iberia, the Spanish national air alternative Spanish carriers are
line, both fly to New York. Air Europa and Vueling.
Iberia also offers scheduled The most frequent shuttle Rail Travel
flights daily to Madrid and service is the Puente Aéreo, run Spain offers many options
Barcelona from all Western between Barcelona and Madrid for users of the state railroad
European capitals, including by Iberia. Flights run at least 12 RENFE. The highspeed
Dublin, which is served by the times a day. A ticket machine services are the intercity TALGO
affiliated Air Nostrum. Its partner allows passengers to buy trains and the AVE service
British Airways has scheduled tickets up to 15 minutes before between Madrid, Seville, and
flights to Madrid and Barcelona departure. The journey usually Málaga via Córdoba; from
and several other cities daily from takes 50 minutes. Madrid to Barcelona via
London Heathrow or Gatwick. Air Europa services between Zaragoza and Lleida; and from
Monarch and Air Europa both Madrid and the regional Barcelona to Seville or Málaga.
run services between several capitals are not as frequent as Tickets for these are the most
airports in the UK and Spain. the Puente Aéreo. Air services expensive and may be bought
From Australasia, the best within the Canary Islands are at train stations from the
connections to Spain are via run by Binter, which is affiliated taquilla (ticket office), obtained
Dubai, Doha, Bangkok, Frankfurt, to Iberia. The lowcost from travel agents, or ordered
and London. company Ryanair also serves via the RENFE website or
many destinations in Spain. telephone booking line.
The largo recorrido (long
Charters and Low-cost distance trains) and regionales
Airlines Getting Around Madrid y cercanías (regional and
Charter flights from the UK serve and Barcelona local) services are frequent,
airports such as Málaga, Alicante, The metro is the quickest and inexpensive, but slower.
and Girona. These can be least expensive way to travel Tickets for local travel may
inexpensive, but are less reliable around Madrid. It is open from be purchased from machines
and have limited schedules. Make 6am to 1:30am and consists of at the station.
sure your agent is ABTA bonded 11 colorcoded lines, plus the In Madrid the major stations
before booking. Special deals are ÓperaPríncipe Pío link and a for longdistance trains are
often offered in the winter and service to the airport. Day Atocha and Chamartín.
may include accommodations. buses run from 6am until Barcelona’s principal train
Lowcost airline easyJet serves midnight; night buses continue station is Sants; Sagrera Station,
Madrid, Barcelona, Mallorca, operating until 6am and leave which opens in 2016, is the
Málaga, Alicante, and Ibiza from from the Plaza de Cibeles. main hub for highspeed trains.
London Luton, Stansted, and A Metrobús ticket, valid for ten Regional rail companies
Gatwick airports, Liverpool, and trips on the buses and metro, operate in three areas of Spain.
Bristol, while Ryanair flies from can be bought at any metro Catalonia and Valencia each
London Stansted and other UK station, as well as from has its own Ferrocarrils de la
regional airports to mainland newsstands and estancos Generalitat, known respectively
and island Spain. (tobacconists). Sightseeing as the FGC and the FGV. The
S PA I N  325
Basque country has the ET throughout Spain. Other drivers to carry at all times
(Eusko Trenbideale). Iberrail companies operate in valid insurance and registration
holidays offer rail-plus-hotel particular regions. Tickets and documents, a driver’s license,
deals for traveling between information for long-distance and ID such as a passport.
Spanish cities. RENFE operates travel are available at main bus
two luxury train services similar stations and from travel agents.
to the Orient Express: El Ferry Services
Transcántabrico, which operates Two car ferry routes link the
in northern Spain, and El Traveling by Road Spanish mainland with the
Andalus, which offers itineraries Spain’s fastest roads are its UK. Brittany Ferries sails from
in Andalucia, Extremadura, and autopistas. They are normally Plymouth and Portsmouth
northern Spain. They also offer dual carriageways subject to in the UK to Santander in
other tourist trains, such as El peajes (tolls). Autovías are similar, Cantabria, and from Portsmouth
Expreso de la Robla and the but have no tolls. Smaller roads to Bilbao. The crossings take
Tren de Cervantes, themed are less well kept but are a more more than 24 hours. Advance
around landmarks significant to relaxed way to see rural Spain. reservations are essential in
the writer in Alcala de Henares. All the major international the summer.
car rental companies are Trasmediterránea runs
represented in Spain. The best car ferry services from
Long-distance Buses deals are accessed through the Barcelona and Valencia on
Spain has no national long- companies’ websites. There are the Spanish mainland to the
distance bus company. The also fly-drive package deals, Balearic Islands. The crossing
largest private company, which include car rental. takes about eight hours. The
Alsa, offers a variety of bus Gasolina (gas) is priced by the same company also operates
tours and sightseeing trips liter. Spanish law requires frequent inter-island services.
DIRECTORY
Iberia and Monarch Bus Companies Car Rental
Affiliates ∑ monarch.co.uk
Alsa Avis
International and Ryanair Tel 902-18 08 54.
Tel 902-42 22 42.
domestic flights ∑ ryanair.com Tel 0808-284 0014 (UK).
∑ alsa.es
Tel 901-100 500. United Airlines ∑ avis.com
Tel 02-036 843 774 (UK). ∑ united.com Eurolines Budget
Tel 800-772 4642 (US). Tel 902-40 50 40. Tel 902-11 25 85.
Vueling
∑ iberia.com Tel 807-001 717. Tel 0871-781 81 77 (UK). ∑ budget.es
∑ vueling.com ∑ eurolines.es Europcar
Other Airlines
∑ eurolines.com Tel 902-10 50 30.
Madrid Tours
Air Europa Tel 0871-384 10 87 (UK).
Tel 902-401 501. Madrid City Tour Bus Stations ∑ europcar.com
∑ aireuropa.com ∑ madridcitytour.es
Hertz
Madrid
American Airlines Rail Travel Tel 902-40 24 05.
Estación Sur (for whole Tel 0870-844 8844 (UK).
Tel 902-054 654.
ET of Spain). ∑ hertz.es
Tel 800-433 7300 (US).
Tel 902-54 32 10. Tel 91-468 42 00. ∑ hertz.co.uk
∑ aa.com
∑ euskotren.es
British Airways Intercambiador des Ferry Services
FGC
Tel 912-754 779. Autobuses
Tel 93-205 15 15. Brittany Ferries
Tel 08444-930 787 (UK). ∑ fgc.cat (for northern Spain).
Tel 902-10 81 47.
Tel 800-247 92 97 (US). Tel 902-42 22 42.
FGV Tel 01752-648 000 (UK).
∑ britishairways.com
Tel 961-92 40 00. ∑ brittany-ferries.com
Barcelona
Delta Air Lines ∑ fgv.es
Trasmediterránea
Estació del Nord.
Tel 902-81 08 72. Iberrail Tel 902-45 46 45.
Tel 902-26 06 06.
Tel 800-241 41 41 (US). ∑ iberrail.es Tel 0844-576 8845 (UK).
∑ delta.com Seville ∑ trasmediterranea.es
RENFE
easyJet Tel 902-32 03 20. Estación Plaza de Armas.
∑ easyjet.com ∑ renfe.es Tel 902-45 05 50.
Shopping although the best fish is

often to be found on the
Shopping in Spain is a pleasurable activity, particularly if you local market stands.
approach it in a leisurely way, punctuating it with frequent For fruit and vegetables, a
breaks for coffee. In small, family-run shops especially, people frutería or verdulería will have
will go out of their way to fulfill your smallest request. Markets better produce, because they
stock only what is in season.
sell the freshest of produce and quality wines can be found at Hardware stores are called
almost any grocer. Leatherwork is still highly regarded among ferreterías. Librerías are in fact
Spain’s many traditional crafts. Spanish design has come to bookshops, not libraries, and
the forefront in both fashion and decor. papelerías are stationers.
Anything you buy as a regalo
(gift) will be gift-wrapped on
Opening Hours designers can be found in and request. When you buy flowers
Stores usually open at 10am, around the Passeig de Gràcia, from a floristería, the assistant
close at 2pm, and reopen from including Santa Eulàlia, which will expect to arrange them.
5pm to 8pm. Bakeries generally offers all the top international
open early, at around 8am. brands along with its own
Supermarkets and department luxury fashion line. Markets
stores stay open over lunchtime. Victorio & Lucchino in Seville Every large town has a daily
Rural markets are held in the sells clothes with a distinctly market (mercado), open from
morning only. In some regions, Andalusian style. 9am to 2pm, and from 5pm to
Sunday trading is just limited to 8pm. Small towns have one or
the bakeries, pastelerías (pastry more market days a week.
stores), and newspaper kiosks, Leather Goods Markets usually have the best
but in many tourist resorts Leather accessories and shoes fresh produce, but they sell all
stores open on Sunday. are a popular purchase and there types of food, including frutos
is a wide range in terms of quality secos (dried fruits) and seasonal
and price. It is the practise in mid- produce, such as mushrooms,
Larger Stores range stores for customers to soft fruit, and game. There are
The hipermercados (superstores) choose from the selection in the also usually other types of
are sited outside towns and can window and give the sales assis- goods on sale, such as flowers,
often be found by following tant the code number indicated hardware, and clothes.
signs to the centro comercial. and the talla (size) required. If Flea markets (rastros) are held
The best known are Carrefour, you want an all-leather shoe, everywhere in Spain, but the
Alcampo, and Hipercor. look for cuero, the hide label largest – known as El Rastro –
Spain’s leading department mark. Lupo is a long-established is in Madrid, and is held on
store is El Corte Inglés. It has Barcelona firm famous for its Sundays and public holidays.
branches in all cities and in luxurious leather bags. Prices on the clothes, records,
the larger regional towns. Leather clothes and bags of antiques, and other items sold
Major seasonal sales are all kinds are usually of good here can be bargained down.
advertised by the word Rebajas, quality and well designed. Madrid also has a coin, stamp,
displayed in store windows. The prestigious Loewe hand- and postcard market held on
bags are sold in retail outlets Sundays in the Plaza Mayor.
in Madrid and other major The Encants Vells, the flea
Clothing Stores Spanish cities. Madrid’s Paco market in Barcelona, is held
The larger cities naturally offer Martínez also offers stylish bags on Mondays, Wednesdays,
the widest selection of clothing at affordable prices. Fridays, and Saturdays. The
stores, but Spanish designer food market, La Boqueria, is
labels can be found even in open daily on La Rambla.
the smaller towns. Specialty Stores
The Calle de Serrano and Calle Specialty stores are often run
de José Ortega y Gasset are the by generations of the same Food and Drink
main streets for fashionwear in family. Panaderías (also called Spanish regional specialties
Madrid, while the work of young hornos) are bakeries selling are often better value when
designers is mostly located in bread and bollos (sweet buns). bought where they are made.
the Chueca district. Adolfo Cakes and pastries are sold Each region produces its own
Domínguez is the doyen of in pastelerías. type of sausage. In Burgos,
Madrid’s minimalist look. The Fresh meat can be bought in for example, morcilla (blood
adventurous will appreciate the a carnicería, but a charcutería sausage) is made, while a fiery
designs of Agatha Ruiz de la will have the best selection of red chorizo comes from
Prada. In Barcelona, inter- cold, cooked meats, and also Guijuelo, Extremadura.
national fashion labels and sells a wide selection of cheeses. Andalusia is renowned for olives
clothes by international Pescaderías sell fish and shellfish, and olive oil, and Galicia for its
S PA I N  327
cheeses. Among the preserves good selection of hand-painted traditional hat makers in Spain
and sweets of Spain, Seville fans. Guitarras de Luthier sells is the Sombrerería Herederos
marmalade is famous. The handmade guitars. Some de J. Russi in Córdoba.
delicious almond-based traditional crafts originated with
nougat, called turrón, is eaten the Moors, such as Toledo’s
at Christmas, but can be filigree metalwork and the Household and
bought all year from food azulejos (ceramic tiles) of Kitchen Goods
stores around the country. Andalusia. Cántaro, near the Department stores have a good
Wine can be bought by the Plaza de España in Madrid, La selection of household goods,
liter at a bodega (local wine Caixa de Fang in Barcelona, but the ferreterías (small
store). It can also be purchased and Ceramica Triana in Seville hardware shops) often have
directly from vineyards (also all sell ceramics. the more authentic selection.
called bodegas), but you may Catalan-style espadrilles are Traditional pottery, such as red
need an appointment. another popular buy. La Manual clay cazuelas (dishes) that can
Spain’s most famous vine- Alpargatera in Barcelona makes be used in the oven and on
growing regions are La Rioja them by hand on the premises the hob are inexpensive. Paella
and Navarra, Penedés, home and sells them in a wide range pans have always been made
of cava (sparkling wine), of colors. of iron or enamel, but now
Valdepeñas, Ribera del Duero, Lace from the villages of the come in stainless steel or with
and Jerez, the sherry region. Sierra de Gata in Extremadura non-stick finishes. Table linen
and Galicia’s Costa da Morte is is often a bargain on market
prized. Spanish linen and silk stands. Spanish lighting design
Traditional Crafts shawls can be purchased from is widely admired and sold
Authentic items, such as guitars, Borca, off the Puerta del Sol in in lampisterías. Traditional
fans, castanets, and flamenco Madrid. In Barcelona, L’Arca de wrought-iron goods, such
shoes, are sold in major cities. l’Avia sells antique silk and lace. as candlesticks and door
Madrid’s Casa de Diego has a One of the most celebrated hardware, are always popular.
DIRECTORY
Department Victorio & Lucchino Traditional Crafts La Manual
Stores Calle de las Sierpes 87, Alpargatera
Seville.
L’Arca de l’Avia
El Corte Inglés Carrer dels Banys Nous 20, Calle d’Avinyó 7,
Calle de Preciados 1–3, Tel 95-422 79 51.
Barcelona. Barcelona.
Madrid. Tel 93-302 15 98. Tel 93-301 01 72.
Tel 90-112 21 22. Leather Goods
∑ elcorteingles.es Borca Sombrerería
Loewe
Plaça Catalunya 14, Calle del Marqués Viudo Herederos de J. Russi
Calle de Serrano 26,
Barcelona. de Pontejos 2, Madrid.
Madrid. Cde Cardenas 1, Córdoba.
Tel 93-306 38 00. Tel 91-532 61 53.
Tel 91-577 60 56. Tel 957-47 79 53.
Plaza Duque de la Victoria La Caixa de Fang
Plaza Nueva 12, Seville.
10, Seville.
Tel 95-422 52 53. Calle Freneria 1,
Tel 95-459 70 00.
Barcelona.
Lupo Tel 93-315 17 04.
Clothing Stores Passeig de Gràcia 124,
Adolfo Domínguez Barcelona. Cántaro
Calle de Serrano 5, Tel 935-19 40 00. Calle de la Flor
Madrid. Baja 8, Madrid.
Paco Martínez Tel 91-547 95 14.
Tel 91-577 47 44.
Passeig de Gràcia 32, Calle Mayor 6, Madrid.
Tel 915-23 81 82. Casa de Diego
Barcelona.
Calle Mesonero Romanos
Tel 93-487 41 70.
Markets 4, Madrid.
Agatha Ruiz de la Tel 91-531 02 23.
Prada La Boqueria
La Rambla 100, Barcelona. Ceramica Triana
Calle de Serrano 27, Calle Antillano Campos
Madrid. Encants Vells 14, Seville.
Tel 91-319 05 01. Plaça de les Glòries Tel 954-33 21 79.
Santa Eulàlia Catalanes, Barcelona.
Passeig de Gràcia 93, Guitarras de Luthier
Barcelona. El Rastro Calle Doctor Mata 1,
Tel 932-15 06 74. Calle de la Ribera de Madrid.
∑ santaeulalia.com Curtidores, Madrid. Tel 91-468 19 54.
Entertainment Classical Music

In Madrid, the two concert halls
The Spanish take particular pride in their cultural heritage. of the Auditorio Nacional de
As well as the traditional art form of flamenco dance and the Música host international
three-act drama of the bullfight (corrida), the theaters and classical music performances,
and the Orquesta Nacional
opera houses of Spanish cities provide one of the best ways de España plays here regularly.
of sharing the experience of Spain. Many activities begin well The Teatro Real de Madrid
after midnight, and taking full advantage of the afternoon also hosts important classical
siesta is a good way to prepare for the evening ahead. Spain’s music concerts.
mountain ranges, woodlands, and extensive coast offer great Barcelona’s Modernista
Palau de la Música Catalana,
potential for scenic tours and sports vacations as alternatives
designed by architect Lluís
to lounging on the beach. Domènech i Montaner, is one
of the world’s most beautiful
reservations office (taquilla) of concert halls.
Entertainment Listings the bullring. The TEYCI agency
For Spanish speakers, the most sells tickets for bullfights, but
complete guide to what’s going charges up to 20 percent Bullfighting
on in Madrid and Barcelona commission. Bullfighting continues to be a
can be found in the weekly Time popular spectacle throughout
Out magazine (published Opera and Zarzuela the country, but it is not for the
Wednesday and available A visit to the Spanish capital squeamish. The Plaza de Toros
digitally) or the Guía del Ocio would not be complete without de Las Ventas in Madrid is the
(published on Fridays and also spending a night at the most famous bullring in the
available free with El País on zarzuela, Madrid’s own variety world. It holds corridas every
Friday). Daily newspapers such of comic opera. The best Sunday during the bullfighting
as El Mundo and ABC have productions are those staged at season. During the May Fiestas
weekly entertainment the Teatro de la Zarzuela. Other de San Isidro, fights are held
supplements. The free monthly venues include Los Teatros del every day. Some of Spain’s most
English-language publication, Canal and the Teatro Victoria. important fights are held at the
In Madrid, can be found in Several other theaters offer Maestranza bullring in Seville
bookstores and Irish bars. zarzuela productions during the Feria de Abril (a
throughout the summer. spring fair held during the
The best place to see national fortnight after Easter). Since
Seasons and Tickets and international opera, 2012, bullfights have been
The main concert and theater including Madrid’s own opera banned in Catalonia. Most
season in Spain runs from company, is the Teatro Real de towns in Andalusia have their
September to June. Madrid. The Teatro Calderón own bullrings: Ronda, Córdoba,
In Madrid and Barcelona, the also hosts excellent classical and and Granada are among the
easiest ways to acquire tickets modern opera productions. best-known venues.
for the theater, concerts, and Barcelona’s opera house is the
opera are by telephone or Gran Teatre del Liceu.
online. Online ticketing Flamenco
agencies include Entradas.com A spontaneous musical art form,
Ticketea, and Ticketmaster. Theater flamenco has its roots in the
Other agencies are El Corte Madrid’s most prestigious gypsy culture of Andalusia.
Inglés and FNAC. theaters are the Teatro de la However, many of the best
In Barcelona, theater tickets Comedia and the Teatro María exponents are now based
can also be bought from ATMs Guerrero. The former stages in the capital.
at branches of the Catalunya classic works by Spanish In Madrid, Casa Patas is still
Caixa and from Tiquet Rambles playwrights, while the latter the best place to catch the raw
at the Palau de la Virreina, which hosts foreign productions and power of genuine flamenco
also has last-minute reduced modern Spanish drama. The guitar and cante singing. Both
price tickets and a good website. Teatro Muñoz Seca and Teatro music and dance can be
Tickets for special events can be Reina Victoria put on comedy enjoyed at Café de Chinitas.
bought from tourist offices. productions. Madrid’s festival Flamenco is performed late
In other parts of Spain, your of classical and modern drama at night with most venues
hotel or local tourist office will (Festival de Otoño a Primavera) offering dinner and a show. In
provide details of events and takes place between October Andalusia, visitors can enjoy
where to purchase tickets. and June. top-quality performances in
Tickets for bullfights, generally In Barcelona, the Teatre the tablaos (flamenco bars)
held between mid-March and Nacional de Catalunya is a fine of the Barrio de Santa Cruz
mid-October, are sold at the showcase for Catalan drama. in Seville, and listen to soul-
S PA I N  329
stirring songs in the bars of Outdoor Activities and canoeing, a wide variety
another of the city’s districts, For information on horseback of watersports is possible in
Triana. One of the best-known riding and pony trekking in Spain. Jet skis and windsurfing
flamenco venues in Granada most regions, contact the Real equipment are available to
is in the gypsy caves of Federación Hípica Española or rent in many coastal resorts.
Sacromonte (see p310). local Spanish tourist offices. Information about sailing can
Picturesque minor roads be obtained from the Real
in many parts of Spain are Federación Española de Vela.
Special Interest Vacations excellent for cycle-touring. Spain has an abundance of
All tourist offices in Spain can Walking tours are also popular. top-quality golf courses. The
provide details of special The Federación Española de Real Federación Española de
interest vacations. Cookery, Montaña y Escalada can Golf will give locations and
wine, and painting courses, as provide information about more detailed information. In
well as history and archaeology climbing and many other most tourist areas, there are
tours, are popular. Nature lovers mountain sports. tennis courts for rental by the
and hikers head for Spain’s Spain’s most popular resorts hour. Travel agents arrange
many national parks. for downhill skiing are the Vall tennis holidays for enthusiasts.
Information about Spanish d’Aran in Catalonia and the More information is available
language courses is provided by Sierra Nevada, near Granada. from the Real Federación
the Instituto Cervantes. As well as white-water rafting Española de Tenis.
DIRECTORY
Tickets Teatro de la Zarzuela Bullfighting Real Federación
Calle de Jovellanos 4, Española de Golf
Entradas.com Madrid. Tel 91-524 54 00. Plaza de Toros
Tel 902-48 84 88 (Madrid). de la Maestranza Calle Arroyo del Monte 5,
Theater Paseo de Cristóbal Cólon 28035 Madrid.
El Corte Inglés 12, Seville. Tel 915-55 26 82.
Tel 902-22 44 11 (Madrid). Teatre Nacional Tel 954-22 45 77.
∑ elcorteingles.es ∑ rfegolf.es
de Catalunya
Plaza de Toros
Plaça de les Arts 1, de las Ventas Real Federación
TEYCI
Barcelona. Calle de Alcalá 237,
Madrid. Española de Tenis
Tel 93-306 57 00. Madrid. Tel 917-24 02 51.
∑ ticketstoros.com Passeig Olimpic 17,
Teatro de la Comedia 08038 Barcelona.
Ticketea
Calle del Príncipe 14,
Flamenco
Tel 902 044 226 Tel 93-200 53 55.
Madrid. Tel 91-521 49 31. Café de Chinitas
∑ ticketea.com ∑ rfet.es
Teatro María Calle de Torija 7, Madrid.
Tiquet Rambles Tel 91-547 15 02. Real Federación
Guerrero
La Rambla 99, Barcelona. Casa Patas
Calle de Tamayo y Baus 4, Española de Vela
∑ tiquetrambles. Calle de Cañizares 10,
Madrid. Tel 91-310 94 31. Calle Luis Salazar 9,
bcn.cat Madrid. Tel 91-369 04 96.
Teatro Muñoz Seca 28002 Madrid.
Opera and Plaza del Carmen 1, Special Interest Tel 91-519 50 08.
Zarzuela Madrid. Tel 91-523 21 28. Vacations ∑ rfev.es
Gran Teatre Teatro Reina Victoria Instituto Cervantes Real Federación

Carrera de San Jerónimo Calle de Alcalá 49,
del Liceu Hípica Española
24, Madrid. 28014 Madrid.
La Rambla 51, Barcelona.
Tel 91-369 22 88. Tel 91-436 76 00. Calle Monte Esquinza 28,
Tel 93-485 99 00.
UK: 102 Eaton Square, 28010 Madrid.
Los Teatros Classical Music London SW1W 9AN. Tel 91-436 42 00.
del Canal Tel 020-7235 0353.
Auditorio Nacional
Calle Cea Bermúdez 1,
de Música Outdoor
Madrid. Tel 913-08 99 99.
Calle del Príncipe de Activities
Teatro Real Vergara 146, Madrid.
de Madrid Tel 91-337 01 40. Federación Española
Plaza de Oriente, Madrid. de Montaña y
Palau de la Música Escalada
Tel 90-224 48 48.
Catalana Calle Floridablanca 84,
Teatro Victoria Carrer de Palau de la 08015 Barcelona.
Calle de las Tres Cruces 8, Musica 4–6, Barcelona. Tel 93-426 42 67.
Madrid. Tel 91-521 83 81. Tel 932-95 72 00. ∑ fedme.es
330  S PA I N
Where to Stay
OLD MADRID: Las Meninas € Price Guide
Madrid Boutique Map B4 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
C/Campomanes 7, 28013
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-41 28 05
Hotel Liabeny €€ ∑ hotelmeninas.es € up to €130
Boutique Map C4 This small but delightful hotel on €€ €130 to €240
€€€ over €240
C/de la Salud 3, 28013 a tranquil street boasts rooms
Tel 915-31 90 00 with polished wooden floors and
∑ liabeny.es charming contemporary decor. OLD TOWN: Bonic Barcelona €
Classically decorated rooms and B&B Map D4
a surprisingly long list of facilities OLD MADRID: Hotel Petit Josep Anselm Clavé 9, 08002
– including a sauna, restaurant, Palace Ducal €€ Tel 626-05 34 34
and gym – for the price. Historic Map D3 ∑ bonic-barcelona.com
C/Hortaleza 3, 28004 A little charmer of a B&B in the
BOURBON MADRID: Tel 915-21 10 43 Gothic Quarter, with individually
Iberostar Las Letras €€ ∑ hotelpetitpalaceducalchueca.com designed rooms, delightful staff,
Boutique Map D3 Set in a handsomely converted and lots of thoughtful extras.
Gran Vía 11, 28013 19th-century mansion, this is a
Tel 915-23 79 80 smart, modern hotel in the heart
∑ hoteldelasletras.com of the fashionable Chueca district. DK Choice
An elegant hotel with rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Espanya €€
dedicated to famous writers, and Historic Map D3
a stunning rooftop bar and terrace Sant Pau 9–11, 08001
that offers tremendous views. Barcelona Tel 935-50 00 00
∑ hotelespanya.com.
EIXAMPLE: Hotel Actual €€ This beautifully restored
DK Choice Boutique Map D3 Modernista gem dates back
BOURBON MADRID: Ritz €€€ Rosselló 238, 08008 to 1859, and combines
Luxury Map E4 Tel 935-52 05 50 contemporary furnishings with
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 ∑ hotelactual.com beautiful details, including
Tel 917-01 67 67 This chic hotel in the center has superb frescoes by Montaner.
∑ ritzmadrid.com minimalist rooms decorated in There is a fabulous restaurant,
A belle époque-style gem monochromatic tones. Free Wi-Fi. a bar with a fireplace, and a
located right next to the Prado, gorgeous roof terrace.
the Ritz boasts an opulent
interior and the air of another DK Choice
century; it even imposes a dress EIXAMPLE: Alma €€€ OLD TOWN: Hotel Mercer €€€
code after 11am. The superb Boutique Map F2 Luxury Map D3
bar is where luminaries such as Mallorca 271, 08008 Lledó 7, 08002
Dalí and Lorca once held court. Tel 932-16 44 90 Tel 933-10 74 80
Excellent service. ∑ almabarcelona.com ∑ mercerbarcelona.com
Housed in a fashionable Chic and intimate, this ravishing
townhouse, this hotel oozes hotel occupies a restored historic
OLD MADRID: Abracadabra € elegance and is famed for its mansion. Roof terrace with a
B&B service. Some of the original plunge pool, and a shaded patio.
C/Bailen 39, 28005 19th-century details have
Tel 656-85 97 84 been preserved, but the rooms OLD TOWN: Hotel Neri €€€
∑ abracadabrabandb.com are chic and minimalist. The Boutique Map D3
Friendly B&B near the Royal Palace. glorious secret courtyard Sant Sever 5, 08002
Rooms are furnished with esoteric and stylish roof terrace are Tel 933-04 06 55
objects from around the world. ideal spots for relaxing. ∑ hotelneri.com
Delicious, generous breakfasts. Enchanting hideaway, with a
superb restaurant, in an 18th-
century palace located in the
Gothic Quarter.
Northern Spain
BILBAO: Miró Hotel €€
Boutique
Alameda Mazarredo, 77, 48009
Tel 946-61 18 80
∑ mirohotelbilbao.com
Designed by Antonio Miró, this
minimalist luxury hotel is just steps
from the famous Guggenheim
Museum. There is a wellness
The regal interiors at the Ritz, Madrid center and a library on site.
CANGAS DE ONIS: Parador CARTAGENA: La Manga

de Cangas de Onis €€ Club Principe Felipe €€
Historic Luxury
Villanueva de Cangas, 33550 La Manga Club, 30385 (Murcia)
(Asturias) Tel 968-33 12 34
Tel 985-84 94 02 ∑ lamangaclub.com
∑ parador.es Enjoy world-class facilities at this
A spectacular 8th-century exclusive Spanish village-style
monastery on the banks of the hotel, popular with celebrities.
Sella with a backdrop of the Picos.
DELTEBRE: Delta Hotel €
B&B
DK Choice Avda del Canal, Camí de la Illeta s/n,
ELCIEGO: Hotel Marqués 43580
de Riscal €€€ Tel 977-48 00 46
Boutique ∑ deltahotel.net
Calle Torrea, 1 Elciego 01340 The charming, family-run Delta
Tel 945-18 08 80 Hotel makes a great base for
∑ hotel-marquesderiscal.com exploring the Ebro delta. Elegant neutral tones set the scene at the
Designed by Frank Gehry, this Hotel Rector, Salamanca
hotel combines avant-garde
design with an unbeatable DK Choice BURGOS: La Puebla Hotel €
location in the heart of the FORTUNA: Balneario Leana € Historic
Basque wine country. Indulge Historic Calle de la Puebla 20, 09004
in grape-based spa treatments, Calle Balneario, 30630 (Murcia) Tel 947-20 00 11
a rooftop lounge and wine bar, Tel 902-44 44 10 ∑ hotellapuebla.com
and organized wine tours ∑ leana.es This stylish yet affordable option
through the adjacent vineyards. Renowned as Murcia’s oldest occupies a 19th-century
hotel – it was founded in 1860 townhouse in the historic center.
– this atmospheric health spa
FUENTE DÉ: Parador conjures up a unique aura of
de Fuente Dé € the past. Modernist details DK Choice
Modern include the original woodwork. SALAMANCA: Hotel Rector €€
Ctra de Espinama s/n, 39588 Boutique
Tel 942-73 66 51 Paseo Rector Esperabé 10, 37008
∑ parador.es MURCIA: Arco de San Juan € Tel 923-21 84 82
A modern parador, surrounded Historic ∑ hotelrector.com
by majestic mountains, with Plaza de Ceballos 10, 30003 Formerly the mansion of one of
high standards and amenities. Tel 968-21 04 55 Salamanca’s most distinguished
∑ arcosanjuan.com. families, this refined hotel
LAGUARDIA: Hospedería A converted palace, with a blend oozes elegance, but it also has
Los Parajes €€ of old and new furnishings. a personal touch. Considered
Spa to be one of Spain’s most
Mayor 46-48, 01300 VILAFAMÉS: El Jardin Vertical € celebrated boutique hotels.
Tel 945-62 11 30 Historic
∑ hospederiadelosparajes.com Calle Nou 15, 12192 (Castellón)
This stylish 15th-century hotel Tel 964-32 99 38 SEGOVIA: Hotel Don Felipe €
features a spa with a hammam ∑ eljardinvertical.com. Historic
and wine therapy. A refurbished 17th-century Calle de Daoiz 7, 40001
red-stone house set amid olive Tel 921-46 60 95
and almond groves. ∑ hoteldonfelipe.es
A converted mansion with
Catalonia & XÁTIVA: Hostería Mont Sant € modern facilities and a garden in
Eastern Spain Historic
Subida al Castillo, 46800
the heart of Segovia.
ALICANTE: Eurostars Tel 962-27 50 81 SIGÜENZA: Molino de

Mediterranea Plaza €€ ∑ mont-sant.com Alcuneza €€
Luxury Beautiful mansion with citrus- Spa
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 6, 03002 filled gardens, spa, and restaurant. Carretera Alboreca, km 0.5, 19264
Tel 965-21 01 88 Tel 949-39 15 01
∑ eurostarsmediterraneaplaza.com ∑ molinodealcuneza.com
Close to a beach, this magnificently This idyllic hotel is well placed for
refurbished hotel offers great Central Spain exploring the medieval city. The
views from the roof terrace. modern spa includes a hammam.
ALMAGRO: Casa
BORREDÀ: Masia Jaume Coll € Grande Almagro € TOLEDO: Hotel Sercotel
Historic Historic San Juan de Los Reyes €€
Carretera C-26, km 169, 08619 C/Federico Relimpio 10, 13270 Luxury
Tel 938-23 90 95 Tel 671-49 62 88 C/Reyes Católicos 5, 45002
∑ masiajaumecoll.com ∑ casagrandealmagro.com Tel 925-28 35 35
There are just a handful of rooms A 16th-century property, close ∑ hotelsanjuandelosreyes.com
at this stone masia (farmhouse), to Plaza Mayor and the famous A four-star hotel in a converted
set in the stunning countryside. medieval theater. mill. Located in the historic center.
332  S PA I N
GRANADA: Posada del Toro €

Inn The Balearic Islands
C/Elviria 25, 18010
Tel 958-22 73 33 FORMENTERA:
∑ posadadeltoro.com Hotel Entre Pinos €€
Renovated 19th-century inn B&B
blending old charm and modern Ctra La Mola, km 12.3, Es Calo, 07820
comforts. Wi-Fi in all rooms. Tel 971-32 70 19
∑ hostalentrepinos.com
GRANADA: Casa 1800 €€ A family-run hotel enclosed in
Boutique pine woods and close to the
C/Benalua 11, 18010 beaches of Es Caló and Arenal.
Tel 958-21 07 00 There is also a terrace bar, garden,
∑ hotelcasa1800granada.com and pool – where BBQs are held.
Romantic hotel in a 17th-century
mansion. Suites have king- or IBIZA: Mirador de Dalt Vila €€€
queen-sized beds and great Historic
vistas. Wi-Fi available. Plaza España 4, Ibiza City, 07800
The stylish Portixol, perched at the water’s Tel 971-30 30 45
edge, Mallorca MÁLAGA: Salles Hotel € ∑ hotelmiradoribiza.com
Luxury In Ibiza town’s upper village, this
TRUJILLO: NH Palacio de C/Marmoles 6, 29007 sumptuous 19th-century palace
Santa Marta €€ Tel 952-07 02 16 offers elegant rooms and suites,
Historic ∑ salleshotels.com plus top-notch services.
Ballesteros, 6, 10200 Well-appointed hotel with
Tel 927-65 91 90 modern and classically decorated
∑ nh-hotels.com rooms. The rooftop pool and DK Choice
This 16th-century palace terrace offer superb views. MALLORCA: Portixol €€€
blends traditional features with Boutique
modern-day comforts. SEVILLE: Cervantes €€ C/Sirena, Portixol, 07006
Boutique Tel 971-27 18 00
C/Cervantes 10, 41003 ∑ portixol.com
Tel 954-90 02 80 Located on a small fishing port
Southern Spain ∑ hotel-cervantes.com within walking distance of the
Set in a lovely 16th-century centre of Palma, Portixol has
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: property, with colored-glass been made over into one of
Casa Grande € ceilings and a tiled patio. Rooms the island’s most stylish and
Historic are individually decorated. best-loved hotels. A smooth
C/Maldonaldo 10, 11630 Scandinavian vibe reigns
Tel 956-70 39 30 throughout, with impeccable
∑ lacasagrande.net DK Choice service and a variety of rooms –
A gleaming 18th-century mansion SEVILLE: Casa from spacious suites to cool
with splendid views of the Numero Siete €€€ little overnighters.
countryside. Good breakfasts. Boutique
C/Virgenes 7, 41004
CÁDIZ: Hotel Playa Victoria €€ Tel 954-22 15 81 MENORCA:
Boutique ∑ casanumero7.com. Agroturisme Biniatram €
Glorieta Ingeniero La Cierva 4, 11010 Discover luxury in a historic Boutique
Tel 956-20 51 00 19th-century mansion right in Ctra Cala Morell s/n, Cala Morell,
∑ palafoxhoteles.com the heart of Seville’s evocative 07760
This eco-friendly seafront hotel old quarter. The decor at this Tel 971-38 31 13
features avant-garde interior guesthouse includes antiques ∑ biniatram.com
furnishings and decor. and family heirlooms. Relax in This rustic finca has eight suites,
the elegant lounge, and enjoy all with self-catering facilities.
CÓRDOBA: Hotel Maestre € the discreet but friendly service. Rooms are airy, and there is a
Inn large pool in the grounds.
Calle Romero Barros 4–6, 14003
Tel 957-47 24 10
∑ hotelmaestre.com
A classic hotel with a flower-filled
patio. Simple rooms and self-
catering apartments available.
CORTES DE LA FRONTERA :
Casa Rural €
Inn
Bda El Colmenar, 29490
Tel 952-15 30 46
∑ ahoraya.es
Chic, rural hideaway nestled
in a valley. Health facilities
include Turkish massages,
a spa, and clay treatments. An antique-filled room at Casa Rural, in Cortes de la Frontera

Price Guide
Prices are for a three-course meal
for one, including half-bottle of
house wine, tax, and service.
€ under €40
€€ €40 to €55
€€€ over €55
such as botifarra amb seques

(country sausage with beans)
and seafood stews.
DK Choice
Colorful artworks in the dining room at Delic, Madrid OLD TOWN: Kaiku €
Mediterranean Map D4
dishes, fresh seafood, and Plaça del Mar 1, 08003
Madrid Catalan specialties, such as Tel 932-21 90 82 Closed Sun
calçots (leek-like vegetables). dinner; Mon; dinner mid-Sep–
BOURBON MADRID: mid-May; Aug
Bar Tomate €€ OLD MADRID: This deceptively simple-looking
Mediterranean Map D2 Bodegas La Ardosa € restaurant serves fantastic
C/Fernando el Santo 26, 28046 Tapas Map C3 dishes prepared with smoked
Tel 917-02 38 70 C/Colón 13, 28004 rice and homegrown
A fashionable spot for market- Tel 915-21 49 79 vegetables. Excellent desserts.
fresh dishes like tuna tartare An old-fashioned tapas bar to
with guacamole or hake with enjoy salmorejo cordobés – a
olives and tomatoes. The airy, chilled tomato and almond soup OLD TOWN: Lo de Flor €
loft-style interior has big wooden – and other traditional staples. Mediterranean
tables, perfect for groups. Carretes 18, 08001
Tel 934-42 38 53 Closed Tue; 2 wks
BOURBON MADRID: DK Choice Aug
Café Gijón €€ OLD MADRID: Delic € A romantic, rustic restaurant with
Café Map D3 Café Map B4 minimalist decor and a short but
C/Paseo de Recoletos 21, 28004 Plaza de la Paja s/n, 28005 well-chosen wine list. Dinner only.
Tel 915-21 54 25 Tel 913-64 54 50 Closed Mon &
One of Madrid’s famous literary Tue (for events) OLD TOWN: Senyor Parellada €
cafés, established in 1887. Gijón A hip favorite on a charming Mediterranean Map E3
serves classic dishes in a dining square, Delic is perfect for a lazy Argenteria 37, 08003
room or on the large terrace. breakfast or a tasty light lunch – Tel 933-10 50 94
try the leek tart or the Japanese Enjoy modern Mediterranean
BOURBON MADRID: dumplings. With wonderful fare in this elegant restaurant
La Casa del Abuelo €€ tarts, muffins, and brownies, it in a 19th-century townhouse.
Tapas Map C4 is also a great stop for tea and
C/Victoria 12, 28012 cake in the afternoon. Later in OLD TOWN: Pla €€
Tel 910-00 01 33 the evening, come for cocktails Fusion Map D3
La Casa del Abuelo (grandfather’s and occasional live music. Bellafila 5, 08002
house) specializes in delicious Tel 934-12 65 52 Closed lunch
prawns served with a local sweet This reliably good dinner spot
wine, plus a range of tasty tapas. OLD MADRID: Naïa €€ offers deftly prepared fusion
Modern Spanish Map B4 food in stylish surroundings.
BOURBON MADRID: Plaza de la Paja 3, 28005
Estado Puro €€ Tel 913-66 27 83 Closed Mon OLD TOWN: Dos Palillos €€€
Gourmet tapas Map C4 This chic bistro is popular with Fusion Map D3
Hotel NH Palacio de Tepa, Plaza del actors and artists. Dishes on offer Elisabets 9, 08001
Angel 9, 28012 might include a spicy monkfish Tel 933-04 05 13 Closed Tue & Wed
Tel 914-29 98 17 and scallop stew, or cod with lunch; Sun & Mon; late Dec–early
Super-stylish spot with gourmet oranges and black olives. Jan, 3 wks Aug
tapas by celebrated chef Paco Ultra-chic yet relaxed, this eatery
Roncero, who brilliantly reinvents with a Michelin star serves up
classic recipes, such as buñuelos spectacular Asian fusion tapas.
de bacalao (cod puffs). Barcelona
OLD TOWN: Koy Shunka €€€
BOURBON MADRID: OLD TOWN: Can Culleretes € Japanese Map D3
Paradis de Madrid €€ Traditional Regional Map D3 C/Copons 7, 08002
Mediterranean Map D4 Quintana 5, 08002 Tel 934-12 79 39 Closed Sun dinner;
C/Marqués de Cubas 14, 28014 Tel 933-17 30 22 Closed Sun dinner; Mon; Aug
Tel 914-29 73 03 Mon; mid-Jul–mid-Aug Arguably the best Japanese
At Paradis de Madrid, guests dine Barcelona’s oldest restaurant, Can restaurant in the city, Koy Shunka
on delicious Mediterranean rice Culleretes is great for classics boasts an adventurous menu.
334  S PA I N
SEGOVIA: Restaurante
Northern Spain José María €€
Regional
LAREDO: La Marina Company € C/Cronista Lecea 11, 40001
Seafood Tel 921-46 11 11
Calle Zamanillo, 39770 Come here to savor chef José
Tel 942-60 63 35 María’s unique take on Segovian
The place for well-executed, staples. Try the roast suckling pig.
simple traditional fare. Excellent-
value set-menu options.
DK Choice
NOJA: Restaurante Sambal €€ ZAFRA: El Acebuche €
Fine Dining Regional
Calle el Arenal, 39180 Santa Marina, 3, 06300
Tel 942-63 15 31 Closed Oct–May: Tel 924-55 33 20
dinner Sun–Thu Housed in a historic building
Gourmet dining accompanied by with modern decor, this
fine views. Terrace seating in good restaurant offers traditional
weather and an excellent wine list. A much-coveted table at the Michelin- food with contemporary
starred Celler de Can Roca, Girona influences. The adjoining tapas
PAMPLONA: Café Bar Gaucho € bar serves lighter fare.
Regional VALENCIA: L’Estimat €€
Calle de Espoz y Mina 7, 31002 Seafood
Tel 948-22 50 73 Avda de Neptuno 16, 46011
This small, buzzing place is one Tel 963-71 10 18 Closed Mon & Sun
of Pamplona’s best pintxo (small dinner; Tue Southern Spain
snack) bars, with a huge variety One of the best seafood spots on
of flavorsome dishes. Cash only. the entire Valencia beachfront, ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €
L’Estimat has a wide selection Traditional
SAN SEBASTIAN: Arzak €€€ of set menus, plus excellent à la Avda Agua Marina 5, 11203
Modern Regional carte choices. Tel 956-66 73 79 Closed Mon
Alcalde José Elosegui 273, 20015 Traditional restaurant with indoor
Tel 943-28 55 93 Closed Sun & Mon; ZARAGOZA: Palomeque € and terrace dining. Offerings
Jun 15–Jul 2 & Nov 2–26 Spanish include Galician-style octopus
The iconic eatery of living legend C/ Agustín Palomeque 11, 50004 and charcoal-grilled sirloin steaks.
Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Tel 976-21 40 82 Closed Sun
Elena, who was voted the World’s Come here for tapas in the CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato €€€
Best Female Chef in 2012. morning and more substantial Seafood
meals for lunch and dinner – all Via Augusta Julia, 11011
presented with sheer artistry. Tel 956-25 00 25 Closed Sun dinner
(except Aug)
Catalonia & This 18th-century seaside inn
Eastern Spain specializes in fish. Try the sea
Central Spain bream baked in a salt crust.
CHINCHON: Mesón CÓRDOBA: Casa El Pisto €€

DK Choice Cuevas del Vino € Traditional
GIRONA: El Traditional Plaza San Miguel 1, 14002
Celler de Can Roca €€€ C/Benito Hortelano 13, 28370 Tel 957-47 01 66 Closed Sun
Modern Catalan Tel 918-94 02 06 Closed Sun dinner The regional specialties served
C/de Can Sunyer 48, 17007 This rustically decorated here include Iberian cured meats,
Tel 972-22 21 57 Closed Sun & restaurant in a 17th-century pisto (ratatouille), and manitas de
Mon; Apr 13–21, Aug, Dec 22–Jan 8 mill is a good bet for classic cerdo (pig’s trotters).
This temple to molecular dishes, such as lamb chops.
gastronomy boasts three
Michelin stars and was voted NAVACERRADA: El Rumba € DK Choice
the world's best restaurant Modern Spanish GRANADA: Mirador de
in 2015. It is run by the Roca Plaza del Doctor Gereda, 28491 Morayma €€
brothers. Expect unique Tel 918-56 04 05 Closed Mon Traditional
dishes, such as caramelized & Tue in winter C/Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010
olives served on a bonsai Wonderful charcoal-grilled meats, Tel 958-22 82 90 Closed Sun
tree, and oysters with and a sprinkling of modern dishes dinner
champagne. Reserve at least like scallops with citrus and sal- Located beside the patio of a
a year in advance. morejo (tomato and bread purée). private house, Mirador enjoys
marvelous city views. Few
SAN LORENZO DE EL restaurants offer such a winning
TARRAGONA: Sol-Ric €€ ESCORIAL: Casa Zaca €€ combination of idyllic setting
Mediterranean Traditional and quality cuisine. Try the
Avda Via Augusta 227, 43007 C/Embajadores 6, San Ildefonso, 40100 fresh remojón (salad with salt
Tel 977-23 20 32 Tel 921-47 00 87 cod, olives, and orange) and
Divine seafood and regional fare The town’s most elegant restaurant salmorejo (a thicker version
in an elegant setting, with a great features classic fare, such as cocido of gazpacho).
terrace for alfresco dining. (chickpea-based stew).
LA LINEA: La Marina €€ SEVILLE: Don Raimundo €€ MALLORCA: La Taberna

Seafood Traditional de la Bóveda €
Paseo Maritimo, La Atunara s/n, C/Argote del Molino 26, 41004 Tapas
11300 Tel 954-22 33 55 Paseo Sagrera 3, Palma, 07012
Tel 956-17 15 31 Closed Sun dinner; A sumptuously converted 17th- Tel 971-72 00 26 Closed Sun
Mon (Oct–Mar) century convent adorned with A perennially popular tapas bar
A large seaside eating spot with stone walls, vivid tiles, ceiling that also serves more substantial
nautical decor and great views. beams, and huge chandeliers. dishes hailing from Galicia and
Delicious clams and revuelto de It serves splendid langostinos Castilla. Pretty tiled interior.
gambas y ortiguillas (scrambled (giant prawns) and jabalí al horno
eggs with prawns and nettles). (oven-cooked wild boar).
DK Choice
PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA: MALLORCA: Santi Taura €€
Casa Flores €€€ Regional
Traditional The Balearic Islands C/Joan Carles I 48, Lloseta, 07360
Ribera del Rio 9, 11500 Tel 971-51 46 22 Closed Mon
Tel 956-54 35 12 FORMENTERA: lunch, Sun dinner; Tue
This stalwart has traditional tiles Pequeña Isla €€ Local chef Santi Taura is a
and a bullfight motif decor to go Regional sort of food anthropologist –
with its menu of staple dishes, Avda El Pilar, 101 El Pilar de la Mola unearthing old recipes of the
such as langostinos (king prawns) Tel 971-32 70 68 islands, which he reinterprets
and percebes (goose barnacles). This unpretentious, reliable in this restaurant. Three weekly
Good lamb and pork dishes, too. restaurant in the hilltop village tasting menus are presented,
of La Mola serves all the local and with each course, the waiter,
RONDA: Tragabuches €€€ dishes, such as fish stew and or Santi himself, will explain the
Traditional dorado baked in salt. history and culture of the food.
C/Jose Aparicio 1, 29400
Tel 952-19 02 91 Closed Mon &
Sun dinner; Jan DK Choice MENORCA: Es Tast de na Silvia €€
Try the chef’s supreme ajo blanco IBIZA: La Paloma € Market Cuisine
(cold summer almond and garlic Mediterranean Avda Portixol 21–22, Cala ’N Bosch,
soup) at this Michelin-starred C/Can Pou 4, San Lorenzo, 07812 07760
restaurant. Scintillating menu de Tel 971-32 55 43 Closed dinner; Tel 971-38 78 95 Closed Wed;
degustación. Impeccable service. Mon (Mar, Apr & Oct); Nov–Feb Nov–Mar
A labor of love undertaken The best option among the
SEVILLE: Bodeguita by two families, La Paloma crowd of touristy restaurants. It
Casablanca € is a postcard-pretty garden serves top-notch cuisine based
Traditional restaurant in a renovated finca, on local and organic produce.
C/Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12, 41002 surrounded by fruit orchards.
Tel 954-22 47 14 Closed Sat dinner; On the menu are Italian-
Sun; Aug inspired homemade dishes DK Choice
Very popular with locals, this created with organic, local MENORCA: Sa Pedrera
is a traditional tapas bar with a ingredients. Pleasant service. d'es Pujol €€€
decor of bullfighting posters and Regional
barrel tables. First-rate mini menu. Camí des Pujol 14, Toret, 07711
IBIZA: Las Dos Lunas €€€ Sant Lluis
SEVILLE: Casa Robles €€ Italian/Mediterranean Tel 971-15 07 17 Closed mid-Sep–
Seafood Ctra Ibiza–San Antonio, mid-May: Mon–Thu
C/Alvarez Quintero 58, 41001 km 5, 07840 Enjoy panoramic views from
Tel 954-21 31 50 Tel 971-19 81 02 Closed Nov–Apr the terrace at this welcoming
A prize-winning spot with One of Ibiza’s most exclusive restaurant serving local dishes
elegant decor and great fish and restaurants, Las Dos Lunas is with a modern touch. The rice
shellfish dishes. Cathedral views often frequented by celebrities. dishes are particularly good, as
from the terrace, plus one of the Dishes are made with produce are the fine local wines.
best wine lists in Seville. from its own vegetable garden.
Murals and delicious banquettes add to the cozy feel at La Paloma, Ibiza
THE IBERIAN PENINSULA  337
PORTUGAL
Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, pretty fishing villages, and
manicured golf courses of the Algarve. But beyond the south-coast resorts lies
the least-explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
ancient cities with proud traditions, and quiet rural backwaters.
Portugal appears to have no obvious most famous product – port wine, grown
geographical claim to nationhood, yet on steeply terraced vineyards hewn out of
the country has existed within borders mountainsides in the wild upper reaches
virtually unchanged for nearly 800 years, of the Douro valley.
making it one of the oldest nation states
in Europe. Its ten million people are History
proudly independent from, and distrustful The Romans, who arrived in 216 BC, called
of, neighboring Spain. the whole peninsula Hispania, but the
For a small country, the regions of region between the Douro and Tagus
Portugal are immensely varied. The rivers was named Lusitania after the
rural Minho and Trás-os-Montes in the Celtiberian tribe that lived there. After
north are the most traditional. Over the the collapse of the Roman Empire in the
last few decades, many inhabitants of 5th century, Hispania was overrun first
these neglected regions have been by Germanic tribes, then by Moors from
forced to emigrate in search of work. North Africa in 711.
At the same time, the Algarve, with Reconquest by the Christian kingdoms
its beautiful sandy beaches and warm of the north began in earnest in the 11th
Mediterranean climate, has become century. In the process, Portucale, a small
a vacation playground for Northern county of the kingdom of León and
Europeans, as well as the Portuguese Castile, was declared an independent
themselves. Lisbon, the capital, at the kingdom by its ruler, Afonso Henriques, in
mouth of the Tagus, is a cosmopolitan 1139. With the aid of English crusaders, he
metropolis with a rich cultural life. Oporto succeeded in recapturing Lisbon in 1147.
is a serious rival, especially in terms of The kingdom expanded south to the
commerce and industry, and is the center Algarve, and Portuguese sailors began to
for the production and export of Portugal’s explore the African coast and the Atlantic.
Fishing boats on the beach at the popular Algarve resort of Albufeira

The picturesque white village of Azenhas do Mar, clinging to a clifftop overlooking the Atlanic Ocean
Portugal’s golden age reached its zenith in Absolutists and Constitutionalists struggled
the reign of Manuel I, with Vasco da Gama’s for power, until, in 1910, a republican
voyage to India in 1498 and the discovery revolution overthrew the monarchy.
of Brazil in 1500. The era also produced The weakness of the economy led to a
the one uniquely Portuguese style of military coup in 1926 and a long period of
architecture: the Manueline. dictatorship. António
Trade with the East brought Salazar, who held power
great wealth, but military from 1932 to 1968, rid the
defeat in Morocco meant country of its debts, but
that the prosperity was poverty was widespread
short-lived. Spain invaded in and all opposition
1580 and ruled Portugal for banned. The country was
the next 60 years. a virtual recluse in the
After Portugal regained world community, the
independence, its fortunes prime concern of foreign
were restored by gold from policy being the defense
Brazil. In the late 18th century, of its African and Asian
the chief minister, the Manuel I (reigned 1495–1521), who made vast colonies. The bloodless
Marquês de Pombal, famous profits from Portugal’s spice trade Carnation Revolution
for rebuilding Lisbon after ended the dictatorship
the 1755 earthquake, began to modernize in 1974, and full democracy was restored
the country. However, Napoleon’s invasion in 1976. Since its entry into the European
in 1807 and the loss of Brazil in 1825 left Community in 1986, Portugal has enjoyed
Portugal impoverished and divided. rapid economic growth and assumed the
self-confident attitude of a modern
KEY DATES IN PORTUGUESE HISTORY
Western European state.
139 BC Romans subdue the Lusitani
415 AD Visigoths invade Iberian Peninsula Language and Culture
711 Muslim army conquers Visigothic kingdom The family is the hub of Portuguese daily
1139 Afonso Henriques declares himself king life and Catholicism remains a powerful
1147 Afonso Henriques takes Lisbon force in rural communities. But the
1249 Conquest of Algarve complete country has come a long way since the
1385 João I defeats Castilians at Aljubarrota repression and self-censorship of the
1418 Prince Henry the Navigator made governor Salazar era. Urban Portugal, in particular,
of Algarve; sponsors expeditions to Africa
presents a fairly emancipated and eagerly
1578 King Sebastião killed on ill-fated expedition
to Morocco consumerist face to the world.
1580 Philip II of Spain becomes king of Portugal The national psyche encapsulates this
1640 Restoration; Duke of Bragança crowned João IV; dualism in its struggle between a forward-
start of war of independence looking, realistic approach to life and the
1668 Spain recognizes Portugal’s independence dreamy, inward-looking side that finds
1807 French invade; royal family flees to Brazil expression in the Portuguese notion of
1910 Revolution; Manuel II abdicates and flees to saudade, a melancholy yearning for
England; republic proclaimed
something lost or unattainable.
1932 António Salazar becomes prime minister
The Portuguese language is a source of
1974 Carnation Revolution
national pride, and visitors should not
2000 Portugal joins European single currency
assume that it is interchangeable with
2011 The economic crisis forces Portugal in to a €78
billion bailout agreement with the EU and IMF
Spanish. Portuguese people are also often
2013 Government approves further austerity
eager to speak English. Pride, too, is taken
measures to avoid a second international bailout in fado, the native musical tradition that
expresses saudade.
PORTUGAL  339
Exploring Portugal
Portugal is a small country and there are fast road and train
links between the country’s four great cities: Lisbon, Coimbra,
Oporto, and Faro. Many of the most famous sights, such as
the royal palaces at Sintra and the monastery of Alcobaça,
make a good day’s outing from Lisbon. In the south, the great
attractions are the sandy beaches of the Algarve. Arriving
from the north is quite easy on the Lisbon-Algarve motorway,
but most visitors fly direct to Faro airport and once there,
traveling between the various resorts is no problem.
Sintra, dominated by the conical chimneys

A Coruña
of the old royal palace
0
Vigo N12
A5
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Zamora KEY
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da Foz 5 Alcobaça
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PORTUGAL
N1 0
7 Coimbra 1 Lisbon pp340–49

Batalha Castelo
A1
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(IC A8
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0 miles 15
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For hotels and restaurants see p362 and p363 For keys to symbols see back flap
1 Lisbon
The capital of Portugal occupies a hilly site on
the estuary of the Tagus. Over the centuries, the
city expanded along the coast to Belém, the starting
point for the voyages of discovery in the 15th century, and
to the other side of the river, known as the Margem Sul.
It has now spread far inland, making the population
of Greater Lisbon nearly two million. The historic center
(the Baixa) is a small, low-lying area, pinned between the Portugal’s coat of arms in the treasury
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pp348–9 A
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Getting Around
Lisbon’s expanding metro system links
the north of the city with sights in the
center around Rossio square. Buses
cover the whole city and are the most
common form of public transportation.
Take the Santa Justa lift to reach the
Bairro Alto district and the 28 tram to
climb the steep hill up to the Alfama.
Belém is served by tram, train, and
bus. Taxis are inexpensive, but a taxi
ride can be alarming, as can any
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, overlooking Praça do Império experience of driving in Lisbon.
LISBON  341
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1 Oceanário de
Lisboa
Esplanada Dom Carlos I, Parque
das Nações. Tel 218-917 000.
q Oriente. @ 705, 728, 744, 750.
£ Gare do Oriente. Open daily.
& 7 ∑ oceanario.pt
This huge oceanarium, on the

banks of the Tagus, is the
second largest in the world.
It was designed for Expo ’98
by the American architect
Peter Chermayeff to illustrate
the environmental theme of
“The Oceans: A Heritage for
the Future.”
The central feature is a gigantic Statue of woman praying beside tomb of Carlos I in São Vicente de Fora
aquarium, the “Open Tank,” with
enough water to fill four Olympic Panels from churches, to a church and monastery on
swimming pools. Representing monasteries, and other sites this site. The present church
the open ocean, this contains around Portugal have been was completed in 1627. The
fauna of the high seas, from sea reassembled here. Highlights Italianate facade has statues of
bream to sharks. Around the include a blue-and-white, Saints Vincent, Augustine, and
main tank four smaller aquariums 18th-century panorama Sebastian over the entrance.
reconstruct the ecosystems of showing Lisbon before the The church has reopened after
the Atlantic, Antarctic, Pacific, earthquake, and colorful extensive renovation.
and Indian oceans. 17th-century carpet tiles Behind the church is the old
(so-called because they imitated refectory, transformed into the
2 Museu Nacional the patterns of Moorish rugs). Bragança Pantheon in 1885. The
tombs of almost every Bragança
do Azulejo king and queen are here, from
Rua da Madre de Deus 4. Tel 218-100 João IV, who died in 1656, to
340. @ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794. Manuel II, last king of Portugal.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Only Maria I and Pedro IV are
Sun, May 1, Dec 25. - 0 & not buried here. A stone
∑ museudoazulejo.pt mourner kneels at the tomb
of Carlos I and his son Luís
The idea of decorative tiles was Felipe, assassinated in Praça do
a legacy of the Moors. From the Comércio (see p344) in 1908.
16th century onward, Portugal
started producing its own
painted ceramic tiles (azulejos). 4 Alfama
The blue-and-white tiles of the @ 737. v 12, 28.
Baroque era are considered by
many to be the finest. A fascinating quarter at any
The National Tile Museum is time of day, the Alfama comes
housed in the Convento da to life in the late afternoon and
Madre de Deus, founded by early evening, when the small
Dona Leonor (widow of João II) restaurants and bars start to fill
in 1509. The interior of the Detail from 16th-century altarpiece in the and music, often fado, can be
church has striking Baroque Museu Nacional do Azulejo heard in the alleyways. It is hard
decoration, added by João V. to believe that this, the oldest
An important surviving feature part of Lisbon, was once the
of the original convent is the 3 São Vicente most desirable quarter of the
Manueline cloister. Along with city. In the Middle Ages, wealthy
the larger Renaissance cloister, it
de Fora residents started to move away,
provides a stunning setting for Largo de São Vicente. Tel 218-824 400. fearing earthquakes, leaving
the museum. Decorative panels, v 28. @ 712, 734. Open Tue–Sun. the quarter to fishermen and
individual tiles, and photographs Closed public hols. & to cloisters. paupers. Ironically, the Alfama
trace tile-making from its was spared by the earthquake
introduction, through Spanish St. Vincent was proclaimed of 1755. Today, the area is a
influence and the development Lisbon’s patron saint in 1173, warren of narrow streets and
of Portugal’s own styles, to today. when his relics were brought small, picturesque houses
LISBON  343
clinging to the hillside below rebuilt. It was

the Castelo de São Jorge. restored again,
The least strenuous way to along with parts
see this area is to start at the of the Santa Cruz
castle at the top and work your district, in 2006.
way down. Attractions on the The castle
way include the Museu de gardens and
Artes Decorativas (Museum narrow streets of
of Decorative Arts), which has the old Santa Cruz
its own workshops, and the district, which lies
sweeping views from the within the walls,
terrace of the Miradouro de are a pleasant
Santa Luzia. You could also place for a stroll,
visit, on a Tuesday or Saturday, and the views are
the colorful Feira da Ladra the finest in
(Thieves’ Market) in Campo de Lisbon. Visitors can
Santa Clara, to the east of the climb the towers,
castle, or the early morning fish one of which has a
market in Rua de São Pedro. camera obscura,
walk along the
reconstructed
5 Castelo de
ramparts, or stand
São Jorge on the shaded The Sé, Lisbon’s austere 12th-century cathedral
Porta de S. Jorge, Rua do Chão da Feira. observation
Tel 218-800 620. @ 737. v 28. Open terrace. Within the castle’s outer of nine Gothic chapels in the
daily. & ∑ castelodesaojorge.pt walls there is also a museum ambulatory behind the altar,
and an archaeological site. contains two fine 14th-century
Following the recapture of tombs and in the Franciscan
Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, chapel by the entrance stands
King Afonso Henriques trans- 6 Sé the font where St. Antony of
formed their citadel – which Largo da Sé. Tel 218-866 752. @ 737. Padua was baptized in 1195. In
crowned Lisbon’s eastern hill – v 12, 28. Open daily. Cloister & the Gothic cloister behind the
into the residence of the treasury: Open daily. & Sé, excavations have unearthed
Portuguese kings. In 1511, Roman and other remains.
Manuel I built a more lavish In 1150, Afonso Henriques built The treasury, located in one
palace beside the river (see p344). a cathedral for the first bishop of of the towers, has a splendid
In the centuries that followed, Lisbon (Gilbert of Hastings) on collection of exhibits, including
the Castelo de São Jorge was the site of the Moorish mosque. the relics of St. Vincent. Legend
used variously as a theater, a Sé denotes the seat of a bishop. has it that his remains were
prison, and an arms depot. After Though much renovated over watched over by two ravens
the 1755 earthquake, the the centuries, the Sé has kept its on their journey to Lisbon in
ramparts lay in ruins until 1938, solid Romanesque facade. The 1173, hence the raven on the
when the castle was completely Capela de Santo Ildefonso, one city’s coat of arms.
View of the Castelo de São Jorge across the Baixa, Lisbon’s lower town
Panorama of the charming Bairro Alto district, located high on a hill
7 Praça do Comércio triumphal arch on the north Comércio was linked with the
@ 711, 714, 732, 759, 794 & many side, decorated with statues of busy central square of Rossio.
others. v 15, 18. q Terreiro do Paço. historical figures, leads into Rua The streets were flanked by
Augusta and the Baixa. Take the splendid Neoclassical buildings.
More commonly known as elevator to the top of the arch The Baixa (lower town) is still
Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square), for sweeping views of the city. the commercial hub of the city,
this was the site of the royal On February 1, 1908, King housing banks, offices, and
palace for 400 years. Manuel I Carlos and his son, Luís Felipe, stores. The streets are crowded
transferred the royal residence were assassinated in the square. by day, especially the central Rua
here, from the Castelo de São In 1974, it witnessed the first Augusta, but less so after dark.
Jorge, in 1511. The first palace, uprising of the Armed Forces By the Restauradores metro
along with its library and 70,000 Movement, which overthrew the station is the Palácio Foz, an
books, was destroyed in the 1755 Caetano regime in a bloodless 18th-century palace. Tourists are
earthquake. Its replacement was coup that became known as naturally drawn to Rossio, an
built around three sides of the the Carnation Revolution. elegant square and social focal
square. After the 1910 revolution, point with cafés and pastelarias.
it became government The National Theater stands on
administrative offices. 8 Baixa the north side. Just to the east
The south side looks across @ 711, 714, 732, 736, 759, 794 & of Rossio is the less attractive
the Tagus and was once the many others. v 15, 18. q Rossio, Praça da Figueira, the city’s
finest gateway to Lisbon – used Restauradores, Terreiro do Paço. main marketplace in Pombal’s
by royalty and ambassadors – time. Rua das Portas de Santo
with marble steps up from the Following the 1755 earthquake, Antão, north of the two
river. In the center of the square the Marquês de Pombal created squares, is a lively pedestrian
is an equestrian statue of José I an entirely new city center, one street full of restaurants.
(1775) by Machado de Castro, of Europe’s first examples of
leading Portuguese sculptor of town planning. Using a grid
the 18th century. The impressive layout of streets, the Praça do 9 Bairro Alto
@ 732, 758. v 28 (also Elevador
da Glória & Elevador da Santa Justa).
q Baixa-Chiado.
The hilltop Bairro Alto quarter,

dating from the 16th century, is
one of Lisbon’s most picturesque
districts. Its narrow, cobbled
streets house a traditional,
close-knit community, with
small workshops and family-run
tascas (cheap restaurants). This
predominantly residential area
has become fashionable at night
for its bars, nightclubs, and fado
houses (see p361). Very different
in character is the neighboring,
elegant, commercial district,
Rossio Square and the Neoclassical National Theater in the Baixa known as the Chiado, where
LISBON  345
artists exhibited include

The Earthquake of 1755 Ghirlandaio, Rubens, Guardi,
The first tremor of the devastating earthquake Gainsborough, Turner, Manet,
was felt at 9:30am on November 1. It was and Renoir. The collection also
followed by a second, far more violent, includes sculpture, jewelry,
shock a few minutes later, which reduced textiles, manuscripts, porcelain,
over half the city to rubble. A third shock and a variety of decorative arts.
was followed by fires, which quickly
spread. An hour later, huge waves came
rolling in from the Tagus, flooding the q Museu Nacional
lower part of the city. Most of Portugal de Arte Antiga
suffered damage, but Lisbon was the
worst affected: an estimated 15,000 Rua das Janelas Verdes. Tel 213-912
people died in the city. Sebastião José 800. @ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
de Carvalho e Melo, chief minister to King Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter
José I, later Marquês de Pombal, restored Marquês de Pombal Sun, May 1, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 -
order and began a progressive town- 0 ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
planning scheme. His cool efficiency
gained him almost total political control. The national art collection,
housed in a 17th-century
palace, was inaugurated in
0 Museu Calouste 1770. In 1940 a modern annex
Gulbenkian (including the main facade)
was added. This was built on
Avda de Berna 45. Tel 217-823 000.
q Praça de Espanha, São Sebastião. the site of a monastery, largely
@ 716, 756, 726, 746. Open Tue–Sun. destroyed in the 1755
Closed Mon, Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, earthquake. Its only surviving
Dec 25. & (free Sun). 0 - 7 feature, the chapel, has been
∑ museu.gulbenkian.pt integrated into the museum.
The first floor houses
Thanks to wealthy Armenian oil 14th–19th-century European
magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, paintings, decorative arts, and
Portugal owns one of the finest furniture. Artists exhibited
personal art collections include Piero della Francesca,
assembled during the 20th Hans Holbein the Elder, Raphael,
century. Gulbenkian moved to Lucas Cranach the Elder,
Portugal in World War II, because Hieronymus Bosch, and Albrecht
of the country’s neutral status. Dürer. Oriental and African art,
This museum was inaugurated Chinese ceramics, and the gold,
in 1969, as part of the charitable silver, and jewelry collection are
institution bequeathed to the on the second floor. The top
nation. The building was floor houses Portuguese works.
The Elevador de Santa Justa, which links the devised to create the best The pride of the Portuguese
Baixa to the Chiado district layout for the founder’s varied collection is the Panels of St.
collection: the exhibits span Vincent (c.1467–70), attributed
affluent Lisboetas shop. On the 4,000 years, from ancient to Nuno Gonçalves. It is an
main street, Rua Garrett, the Café Egypt and China, through altarpiece painted on six
Brasileira – once frequented an extensive collection panels, featuring portraits
by writers and intellectuals – of Islamic ceramics of a wide range of
remains popular. The Chiado and carpets, to Art contemporary figures,
was devastated by fire in 1988, but Nouveau. Gulbenkian from beggars and
has been painstakingly renovated. was a friend of René sailors to bishops and
The best way to reach the Lalique, the great princes, including Henry
Bairro Alto from the Baixa is glassware and jewelry the Navigator and the
via the Chiado district and the maker, and one future João II, all paying
Elevador de Santa Justa, a room is filled homage to the saint.
Neo-Gothic elevator dating with his work. Another fascinating
from 1901–2. Tourist attractions Highlights of aspect of the Age
include the richly decorated the European art of Exploration is
São Roque church, the ruined collection include recorded in the
Igreja do Carmo, once the Van der Weyden’s 16th-century
largest church in Lisbon, and St. Catherine and Japanese screens,
the Museu Nacional de Arte Rembrandt’s which show
Contemporânea (MNAC), which Portrait of an Old Statue of the founder at the Portuguese traders
houses art from 1850–1950. Man. Other major Gulbenkian Museum arriving in Japan.
Belém There is also a 19th-century

Lisbon cab, painted black
At the mouth of the Tagus, where the Portuguese mariners set and green, the colors of taxis
sail on their voyages of discovery, Manuel I commissioned two right up to the 1990s and in use
grand monuments in the exuberant Manueline style of again today. The 18th-century
Eyeglass Chaise has a black
architecture: the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Torre de
leather hood pierced with
Belém. Today, Belém is a spacious, relatively green suburb with sinister eyelike windows. It dates
museums and gardens, including the vast Praça do Império, a from the era of Pombal (see p345),
formal square with a central fountain in front of the monastery. when lavish decoration
The area enjoys an attractive riverside setting, with cafés and a was discouraged.
promenade; on sunny days, it has a distinct seaside feel.
In Rua de Belém is the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém,
a 19th-century café that sells the local specialty:
pastéis de Belém, rich flaky-pastry custard tarts.
w Museu Nacional The coaches on

dos Coches display span
three centuries
Avenida da Índia 136. Tel 210-732 319. and range from
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
the practical
£ Belém. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Baroque coach in the Museu Nacional dos Coches
to the prepos-
Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Dec 25. &
terous. Among
the exhibits are coaches created e Monument to the
(free 1st Sun in month). 7
∑ museudoscoches.pt
for Portuguese royalty. The oldest Discoveries
The National Coach Museum is the comparatively plain 16th-
Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Avda de
was established in 1905 by century red leather and wood
Brasília. Tel 213-031 950. @ 727, 728,
King Carlos’s wife, Dona Amélia, coach of Philip II of Spain. The 729, 751. v 15. Open Apr–Sep:
whose pink riding cloak can coaches become increasingly 10am–7pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–
be seen on display. Part of the sumptuous, interiors lined with 6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
collection occupies the former red velvet and gold, exteriors Dec 25. & ∑ padraodos
riding school of the Palace of carved with allegorical figures. descobrimentos.pt
Belém, while most of it is housed The most extravagant of all are
in a purpose-built museum on three Baroque coaches made Standing prominently on the
the east side of the square. The in Rome for the Portuguese Belém waterfront, the Padrão
rest of the elegant pink palace is ambassador to the Vatican in dos Descobrimentos was built
now the residence the early 18th century. in 1960 to mark the 500th
of the president The neighboring gallery anniversary of the death of
of Portugal. includes pony-drawn chaises. Henry the Navigator (see p338).
The 52 m (170 ft) high
monument resembles a caravel
– the small, lateen-rigged ship
Eastern Face of the Monument

to the Discoveries
Afonso V
(1432–81)
Pedro Álvares Cabral
Henry the Navigator (1467–1520), discoverer
(1394–1460), patron of Brazil
of the first explorers
Vasco da Gama Fernão de Magalhães (Magellan), Padrão erected by Diogo
(1460–1524) who crossed the Pacific in 1520–21 Cão in the Congo in 1482

LISBON  347
used by Portuguese sailors to

explore the coast of Africa.
Henry the Navigator stands at
the prow with a caravel in hand.
In two sloping lines either side
of the monument are heroes
linked with the Discoveries.
In front of the monument is
a huge mariner’s compass cut
into the paving. The central
map, dotted with galleons and
mermaids, shows the routes of
the discoverers in the 15th and
16th centuries. Inside the
monument, an elevator whisks
you to the sixth floor, where
steps lead to the top for a
splendid panorama.
The Torre de Belém, a landmark for sailors returning to Lisbon

r Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos y Torre de Belém statue of Our Lady of Safe
See pp348–9. Homecoming, watching over
Avenida da India. Tel 213-620 034.
@ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. £
the lives of Portugal’s sailors.
The beauty of the tower lies
t Museu de Belém. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1,
Easter Sun, May 1, Dec 25. & (free 1st in the exterior decoration:
Marinha Sun of month). 7 ground floor only. Manueline ropework carved
Praça do Império. Tel 210-977 388. ∑ torrebelem.pt in stone, openwork balconies,
@ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. Open and Moorish-style watchtowers.
Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, Commissioned by Manuel I, The distinctive battlements are
May 1, Dec 25. & (free 1st Sun in the tower was built as a in the shape of shields,
month). 7∑ museu.marinha.pt fortress in the middle of decorated with the
the Tagus in 1515–21. squared cross of the
The Maritime Museum was Before nearby land was Order of Christ, the
inaugurated in 1962 in the west reclaimed in the 19th emblem that also
wing of the Jerónimos monastery. century, the tower stood adorned the sails of
A hall devoted to the Discoveries much further from the Portuguese ships.
illustrates the rapid progress in shore than it does today. The space below
ship design from the mid-15th As the starting point for the terrace, which
century. Small replicas show the the navigators who set Royal coat of arms served as a storeroom
transition from the bark to the out to discover the on the Torre de and a prison, is very
lateen-rigged caravel, through trade routes to the east, Belém austere, but the private
the faster square-rigged caravel, this Manueline gem quarters in the tower are
to the Portuguese nau, or great became a symbol of Portugal’s worth visiting for the elegant
ship. There is also a display of great era of expansion. On the arcaded Renaissance loggia
navigational instruments and terrace, facing the sea, stands a and the wonderful panorama.
replicas of 16th-century maps.
The pillars carved with the Cross
of the Order of Christ are Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)
replicas of various kinds of In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around
padrão, a stone marker set up to the Cape of Good Hope and opened
denote sovereignty over the the sea route to India. Although the
new lands discovered. Hindu ruler of Calicut, who received
Beyond the Hall of Discoveries him wearing diamond and ruby rings,
are models of modern was not impressed by his humble
Portuguese ships and the Royal offerings of cloth and wash basins,
Quarters, housing the exquisitely da Gama returned to Portugal with
furnished wood-paneled cabin a valuable cargo of spices. In 1502
he sailed again to India, establishing
of King Carlos and Queen Amélia
Portuguese trade routes in the Indian
from the royal yacht Amélia,
Ocean. João III nominated him Viceroy
built in Scotland in 1900. of India in 1524, but he died of a fever
The modern pavilion opposite soon after. Portrait of Vasco da Gama,
houses original royal barges painted in India
and a display of seaplanes.
r Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

A monument to the wealth of Portugal’s Age of
Discovery, the monastery is the culmination of the
Manueline style of architecture. Commissioned by
Manuel I in around 1501, soon after Vasco da Gama’s
return from his historic voyage, it was funded largely
by “pepper money”, taxes on spices, precious stones, Tomb of Vasco da Gama
and gold. Various masterbuilders worked on the The 19th-century tomb of the
explorer (see p347) is carved with
building, the most notable being Diogo Boitac, ropes, armillary spheres, and other
replaced by João de Castilho in 1517. The monastery seafaring symbols.
was entrusted to the Order of St. Jerome (Hieronymites)
until 1834, when all religious orders were disbanded.
The Monastery
The facade of the monastery church
is dominated by the
magnificent South
Portal. This makes
dramatic use of
the Manueline
style of
architecture,
essentially a
Portuguese
variant of
Late Gothic.
Entrance to church
and cloister
KEY
1 Gallery Museum of Archaeology and 6 The chapter house holds the

2 The West Portal was part of the Maritime Museum tomb of Alexandre Herculano
designed by the French (see p347). (1810–77), historian and first
sculptor Nicolau Chanterène. mayor of Belém.
4 Refectory walls are tiled with
One of the niches holds a 18th-century azulejos. The panel 7 The chancel was
sculpture of the kneeling figure at the northern end depicts the commissioned in1572 by Dona
of King Manuel I. Feeding of the Five Thousand. Catarina, wife of João III.
3 The modern wing, built 5 The fountain is in the shape 8 The tombs of Manuel I, his wife
in 1850 in Neo-Manueline of a lion, the heraldic animal of Dona Maria, João III, and Catarina
style, houses the National St. Jerome. are supported by elephants.

LISBON  349
. Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

João de Castilho’s pure
Manueline creation Practical Information
was completed in Praça do Império. Tel 213-620 034.
1544. Delicate tracery Open 10am–6pm (6:30pm
and richly carved May–Sep) Tue–Sun (last adm:
images decorate the 30 mins before closing).
arches and balustrades. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1,
Jun 13, Dec 25. & (1st Sun of
month). 7 cloister.
∑ mosteirojeronimos.pt
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held
aloft by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.
. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
João de Castilho unites Tomb of King Sebastião
religious themes, such as The tomb of the “longed for” Dom
this image of St. Jerome, Sebastião stands empty. The young
with the secular, exalting king never returned from battle in
the kings of Portugal. 1578 (see p338).
3 Sintra + Castelo dos Mouros

Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 miles) S. Tel
* 25,000. £ @ n Praça da 219-237 300. @ 434 or taxi from Sintra.
Républica 23 (219-231 157). ( 2nd Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
and 4th Sun of month in São Pedro.
_ Sintra Festival (Jun–Jul). P Palácio da Pena
Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 miles) S.
Sintra’s setting among wooded Tel 219-237 300. @ 434 or taxi
ravines and fresh-water springs from Sintra. Open daily.
made it a favorite summer Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
retreat for the kings of Portugal, ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
who built the fabulous
Beach at Estoril, east of Cascais Palácio Nacional de Sintra
(see pp352–3) here. 4 Tomar
2 Cascais Designated a UNESCO World * 43,000. £ @ n Avda Dr.
* 33,000. £ @ n Largo da Heritage site in 1995, the town Cândido Madureira (249-329 823).
Cidade de Vitória (214-668 167). draws thousands of visitors, yet ( Fri. _ Festa dos Tabuleiros (Jul,
( first and third Sundays in month. there are many tranquil walks every 4 years, next one will be 2019).
in the surrounding hills.
A harbor since prehistoric times, Present-day Sintra is a maze Founded in 1157 by Gualdim
Cascais became a fashionable of winding roads, and exploring Pais, the first Grand Master
resort in the 1870s, when the town on foot involves much of the Order of the Templars in
Luís I’s summer palace was walking and climbing; for a Portugal, Tomar is dominated
sited here. Today, it is a bustling more leisurely tour, by the castle containing
cosmopolitan resort, with take a horse-and the Convento
many upscale stores in the carriage ride. The de Cristo. It was
pedestrian streets of the old Miradouro da Vigia begun in 1162, built
town and a new marina in São Pedro offers on land given to the
complex. Fishing is still an impressive views, as Templars for services
important activity, and the does the cozy Casa in battle, and
day’s catch is auctioned near de Sapa café, where preserves many
the harbor in the afternoon. you can sample traces of its founders
queijadas, cheese and the inheritors of
Environs tarts spiced their mantle, the
Along the coast, 3 km (2 miles) with cinnamon. Order of Christ. The
to the east, the resort of Estoril High above the nucleus of the castle
has been home to exiled town is the Castelo is the 12th-century
European royalty. It has retained dos Mouros, an Charola, the Templars’
its sense of place with grand 8th-century Moorish Manueline window at octagonal oratory. In
villas and hotels lining the coast. castle. On a nearby Tomar’s monastery 1356, Tomar became
Guincho, 10 km (6 miles) west hilltop stands the the headquarters of
of Cascais, has a magnificent Palácio da Pena, built in the the Order of Christ.
sandy beach. Its Atlantic 19th century for Ferdinand, King Cloisters were built in the
breakers make it popular with Consort of Maria II, in a bizarre time of Henry the Navigator,
surfers. Further north is Cabo medley of architectural styles. but it was in the reigns of
da Roca, the most westerly A magnificent park surrounds Manuel I (1495–1521) and his
point of mainland Europe. the fairy-tale castle. successor, João III (1521–57),
that the greatest changes were
made, with the addition of the
Manueline church and
Renaissance cloisters. The
church window (c.1510),
commissioned by Manuel I,
is probably the best-known
single example of the
Manueline style of architecture.
Other fascinating features
include the Terrace of Wax,
where honeycombs were left
to dry, and the “bread” cloister,
where loaves were handed
out to the poor.
The town of Tomar is the
site of the curious Festa dos
Palácio da Pena in Sintra, the hilltop retreat of the last kings of Portugal Tabuleiros, in which young girls
PORTUGAL  351
carry towering structures made the Moorish stronghold of

of 30 loaves of bread on their Santarém. To commemorate the
heads. They parade through the victory, he gave land and
main square, Praça da República. money to build a church to the
The square’s focal point is the Cistercians. Completed in 1223,
15th-century Gothic church of the church is a beautiful
São João Baptista. Tomar is also building of austere simplicity.
home to one of Portugal’s oldest Portugal’s rulers continued to
synagogues, now the Museu endow the monastery, notably
Luso-Hebraico de Abraham King Dinis (1279–1325), who
Zacuto, a Jewish museum. added the main cloister, known
as the Cloister of Silence. In the
R Convento de Cristo Sala dos Reis, 18th-century tiles
Tel 249-313 481. Open daily. Closed depict the founding of the
Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Dec 25. & abbey, and statues of Portuguese
kings adorn the walls.
Among those buried here are
the tragic lovers King Pedro
(1357–67) and his murdered
mistress, Inês de Castro (d.1355),
whose tombs face each other Manueline portal leading to the Unfinished
across the transept of the abbey Chapels at Batalha
church. Inês’ death was ordered
by Pedro’s father, Afonso IV UNESCO World Heritage site. The
(1325–57). After Afonso’s death, pale limestone monastery was
Pedro had two of Inês’ murderers built to celebrate João I’s historic
killed brutally. He then had her victory at Aljubarrota in 1385.
body exhumed and reburied. Today, the abbey still has military
One of Alcobaça’s most popular significance: two unknown
The Convento de Cristo, Tomar features is the vast kitchen. Here soldiers from World War I lie
whole oxen could be roasted in the chapter house. João I,
on a spit inside the fireplace his English wife, Philippa of
5 Alcobaça and a specially diverted stream Lancaster, and their son, Henry
Praça 25 de Abril, Alcobaça. Tel 262- provided a constant water supply. the Navigator, are also buried
505 120. @ from Lisbon or Coimbra. here, in the Founder’s Chapel.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter, The abbey was begun in 1388
May 1, Aug 20, Dec 25. & 6 Batalha and work continued for the next
∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória, two centuries. King Duarte,
Batalha. Tel 244-765 497. @ from João’s son, began an octagonal
The Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de Mós & Fátima. mausoleum for the royal house
Alcobaça is Portugal’s largest Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, of Avis. The project was taken
church and a UNESCO World May 1, Dec 25. & (1st Sun in month). up again, but then abandoned
Heritage site. Founded in 1153, by Manuel I. It is now known as
the abbey is closely linked to the The Dominican Abbey of Santa the Unfinished Chapels. Much
arrival of the Cistercian order in Maria da Vitória at Batalha is a of the decoration of the abbey
Portugal in 1138, as well as to the masterpiece of Portuguese is in the Manueline style.
birth of the nation. In March 1147, Gothic architecture and a
Afonso Henriques conquered
The magnificent Gothic tomb of Pedro I in the transept of the monastery church at Alcobaça
Palácio Nacional
de Sintra
At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila),
a pair of unusual conical chimneys rises high
above the Royal Palace. The main part of the
palace, including the central block with its plain
Gothic facade and the large kitchens beneath the . Sala dos Brasões
chimneys, was built by João I in the late 14th The domed ceiling of this majestic room is
decorated with stags holding the coats of
century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish
arms (brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became families. The lower walls are
the favorite summer retreat for the court and lined with 18th-century
continued as a residence for Portuguese royalty Delft-like tiled
panels.
until 1910. Additions to the building by the
wealthy Manuel I in the early 16th century,
echo the Moorish style. Gradual rebuilding
of the palace has resulted in a fascinating
amalgamation of various different styles.
. Sala das Pegas

The 15th-century painted ceiling
features 136 magpies (pegas) holding
ribbons with King João I’s motto,
“Por bem” (In honour), and roses
to represent Queen Filipa’s House
of Lancaster.
Azulejos – Painted Ceramic Tiles

The Palácio Nacional de Sintra contains azulejos from the 16th–18th
centuries, many painted with Moorish-influenced designs. In the
early 16th century, tiles were produced by compartmental
techniques, using raised and depressed areas to prevent the tin-glaze
colors from running. The maiolica technique appeared in the mid-
16th century. This allowed artists to paint directly onto prepared flat
tiles using several colors, as these did not run in the firing process.
By the 18th century, no other European country was producing as
many decorative tiles as Portugal, and there are many examples
Spanish-made, Moorish-style tiles from the of 18th-century blue-and-white azulejos in the palace at Sintra,
palace chapel (1510) notably in the Sala dos Brasões.

PORTUGAL  353
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219-106 840. Open Apr 1–
Oct 25: 9:30am–7pm daily;
Oct 26–Mar 31: 9:30am–6pm
daily (last adm: 30 mins before
closing). Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
8&
. Sala dos Cisnes

The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting
hall, painted in the 16th century, is divided into
octagonal panels decorated with swans (cisnes).
Chapel
Symmetrical Moorish patterns decorate
the original 15th-century chestnut
and oak ceiling and the mosaic floor
of the private chapel.
Entrance
KEY
1 Dom Sebastião’s bedroom 5 The Sala dos Árabes is

decorated with fine azulejos.
2 Jardim da Preta, a beautiful
6 The kitchens, beneath the huge
walled garden
conical chimneys, have spits and
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons) utensils once used for preparing
features a ceiling painted with ships royal banquets.
and galleons in honour of Portugal’s 7 Manuel I added the ajimene
maritime heritage. windows, a distinctive Moorish
Sala das Sereias design with a slender column
Intricate Arabesque designs 4 The Torre dos Brasões has dividing two arches.
on 16th-century tiles frame dovecotes below the cornice 8 Sala dos Archeiros, the
the door of the Room of decorated with nautical rope. entrance hall
the Sirens.
300,000 books. Nearby King Dinis (1279–1325), and

is the similarly ornate Inês de Castro, stabbed to death
Capela de São Miguel. here in 1355 (see p351). Nearby
Each May, at the end of is the Portugal dos Pequenitos
the academic year, the theme park.
Queima das Fitas takes
place, at which students P University
hold a ceremonial Largo da Porta Férrea. Tel 239-242
burning of their faculty 744. Open daily. Closed Dec 24 & 25.
ribbons, a tradition that & 7 Library only. ∑ visit.uc.pt
dates back 700 years. E Museu Nacional Machado
Another fascinating de Castro
site is the Museu Largo Dr. José Rodrigues. Tel 239-
Nacional Machado de 853 070. Open Tue pm–Sun. &
Castro, which holds
Portugal dos Pequenitos
some of Portugal’s finest Rossio de Santa Clara. Tel 239-801
15th- to 20th-century 170. Open daily. Closed Dec 25.
paintings and sculpture &7
set among the elegant
16th-century loggias and Environs
courtyards of the former Buçaco National Forest, 16 km
bishops’ palace. (10 miles) north of Coimbra, was
18th-century library of Coimbra University After visiting this area once the retreat of Carmelite
(the “upper town”), head monks. Part woodland and part
7 Coimbra to the “lower town.” Largo arboretum, it is dotted with
* 144,000. £ @ n Edifício da da Portagem is a useful chapels and fountains. It
Biblioteca Geral da Universidade de starting point, and river trips also houses the Bussaco
Coimbra (239-242 745); Largo da depart from nearby. In the Palace Hotel, built in
Portagem (239-488 120). ( Mon–Sat. Praça do Comércio, Neo-Manueline style as a
_ Queima das Fitas (early May). alongside coffee royal hunting lodge in
shops and bars, is 1907. Buçaco was also
Afonso Henriques chose the restored the site of a crucial battle
Coimbra as his capital in 1139, 12th-century church of (1810) in the Peninsular
an honor it retained until 1256. São Tiago. North of War. The Roman town
Today, the city on the Mondego this is Santa Cruz, of Conímbriga lay
is famous as the home of founded in 1131, south of modern
Portugal’s oldest university. where Portugal’s first Coimbra. Portugal’s
Most sights are within walking two kings are buried. largest Roman site, it
distance of each other, so In the southeast of Student, May has villas with fine
Coimbra is best explored on the city is the Jardim celebrations floor mosaics, and an
foot, despite the steep hill on Botânico. The gardens, excellent museum.
which it is built. which are Portugal’s largest,
Coimbra’s two cathedrals, the were created in 1772 and T Conímbriga
Sé Velha (“old”) and Sé Nova house 1,200 plant species. 2 km (1 mile) S of Condeixa-a-Nova.
(“new”), lie in the shadow of the On the opposite bank of the @ from Coimbra. Site: Open daily.
hilltop University. The Sé Velha, Mondego are the two convents Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Jul
begun in 1064, is seen as the of Santa Clara; these have ties 24, Dec 25. Museum: Tel 239-941 177.
finest Romanesque building in with Santa Isabel, the widow of Open daily. & 7 museum.
Portugal. The Sé Nova was
founded in 1598 by the Jesuits.
The University, a short walk
away, was founded in 1290
by King Dinis. Originally its
location alternated between
Lisbon and Coimbra, but it was
finally installed in Coimbra’s
royal palace in 1537. Its oldest
buildings are grouped around
the Pátio das Escolas. The
belltower (1733) can be seen
from all over the city. The
Library was a gift from João V
(1706–50). Its rooms, of gilt and
exotic wood, are lined with The Bussaco Palace Hotel, in its enchanting woodland setting
PORTUGAL  355
The Douro River and old city of Oporto, with the Ponte de Dom Luís I and modern metro line in the foreground
8 Oporto in 1842. Its highlight is the The oldest of the five bridges
Arabian Room decorated in spanning the Douro are the
* 245,000. k 10 km (6 miles) N.
£ @ n Rua Clube dos Fenianos 25
the style of the Alhambra. Dona Maria Pia railroad bridge
(223-393 472); Terreiro de Sé (223-325 Close by is the 14th-century (1877), designed by Gustave
174). _ São João do Porto (Jun São Francisco church. Its Eiffel, and the two-tiered Ponte
23–24). ∑ portoturismo.pt interior is richly covered in de Dom Luís I (1886), by one
carved and gilded wood. of Eiffel’s assistants.
Ever since the Romans built a fort In the Cordoaria district, west Across the river is the town
here, at the mouth of the Douro, of the Sé, stands the 18th- of Vila Nova de Gaia, the
Oporto (Porto in Portuguese) century Igreja dos Clérigos. center of port production,
has prospered from commerce. The church tower, at 75 m housing the lodges (armazéns)
Today it is Portugal’s second city (246 ft), offers superb views. of over 50 companies. Many
and a thriving industrial center. Situated in the lovely offer guided tours.
The commercial center of Serralves park, the Fundação
the city and the Baixa (“lower”) de Serralves is dedicated to E Fundação de Serralves
district attract fashionable contemporary art. It presents Rua Dom João de Castro 210. Tel 226-
shoppers. Also in the Baixa is temporary exhibitions in the 156 500. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri (to
the colorful Bolhão market. Art Deco Casa de Serralves, and 7pm in summer), 10am–7pm Sat, Sun,
Most of the tourist sights, its art collection, from the 1960s & public hols (to 8pm in summer).
however, are to be found in to the present, in the Modernist Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & (free 10am–
1pm Sun). 7 - = ∑ serralves.pt
the older riverside quarters. Museu de Arte Contemporânea,
High above the river, on designed by Alvaro Siza Vieira.
Penaventosa Hill, stands
Oporto’s cathedral, or Sé,
originally a fortress church. The Story of Port
A noteworthy 13th-century
feature is the rose window, Port comes only from a demarcated
region of the upper Douro valley. Its
while the upper level of the
“discovery” dates from the 17th century,
beautiful 14th-century cloister when British merchants added brandy
affords splendid views. to Douro wine to stop it turning sour
Nearby are the Renaissance in transit. Over the years, methods of
church of Santa Clara, and São maturing and blending were refined
Bento Station, completed in and continue today in the port lodges
1916, decorated with of Vila Nova de Gaia. Much of the trade
spectacular azulejo panels. is still in British control.
Below the Sé is the hillside A classic after-dinner drink, port
Barredo quarter, seemingly is rich and usually full-bodied. The
unchanged since medieval tawnies are lighter in color than ruby
days. This leads down to the or vintage, but can be more complex.
riverside quarter, the Ribeira, All ports are blended from several
its houses decorated with tiled wines, selected from scores of samples. Tiled panel of a barco rabelo on
or pastel-painted facades. White port, unlike the other styles, is the Douro
The district has been restored drunk chilled as an aperitif.
Traditionally, the wine was shipped
and is now a thriving tourist
down the Douro from the wine-growing estates (quintas) to the port
center with restaurants and clubs. lodges on narrow sailing barges called barcos rabelos. Some of these
Sights close to the river can still be seen moored along the quay at Vila Nova de Gaia.
include the Palácio da Bolsa,
the city’s stock exchange, built
Southern Portugal
Southern Portugal encompasses the Alentejo and the
Algarve, which are separated by ranges of hills. The Alentejo,
nearly one-third of Portugal, stretches south from the Tagus.
It is typified by vast rolling plains of olive trees, cork oaks, or
wheat, as well as whitewashed villages, castles, and a sense of
space and tranquility. The Algarve is very different from the
rest of Portugal in climate, culture, and scenery.
Its stunning coastline and year-round
mild weather make it a popular Renaissance fountain in Évora’s main
square, Praça do Giraldo
vacation resort.
0 Faro
Roman walls stands the * 55,000. k £ @ n Rua da
University, founded by the Misericórdia 8 (289-803 604). ( daily.
Jesuits in 1559. It was closed in _ Dia da Cidade (Sep 7).
1759 by the Marquês de Pombal
(see p345). The building, with its Faro has been the capital of
graceful cloister and notable the Algarve since 1756. It was
azulejos, forms part of the damaged by the 1755 earth-
present-day university. quake and, although some parts
Évora has more than 20 of the ancient city walls remain,
Carved figures of the Apostles on the portal churches and monasteries, most of the buildings date from
of the Sé, Évora including the 15th-century the 18th or 19th centuries.
São Francisco. The church’s The old city is easy to
9 Évora gruesome 17th-century Capela explore on foot. At its heart
* 55,000. £ @ n Praça do dos Ossos was created from the is the Largo da Sé, lined with
Giraldo (266-777 071). ( Sat & bones of 5,000 monks. orange trees and flanked by
2nd Tue of month. _ Festa de Northwest of the city stands the 18th-century bishops’
São João (Jun). the remaining 9 km (5 miles) of palace, the Paço Episcopal,
Évora’s aqueduct, the Aqueduto which is still in use today.
Rising dramatically out of the da Água de Prata, (1531–37), The Sé itself is a mixture of
Alentejo plain, the enchanting which was damaged in the Baroque and Renaissance styles
city of Évora is set in Roman, 17th century, during the War. and has a fine 18th-century
medieval, and 17th-century organ. Next to the Sé is the
walls. In 1986, UNESCO declared E Museu de Évora Museu Municipal, which
it a World Heritage site. Largo do Conde de Vila Flor. contains Roman, medieval, and
The fortresslike cathedral, the Tel 266-730 480. Open Tue–Sun. Manueline archaeological
Sé, on the Largo do Marquês de Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Jun finds from all over the region.
Marialva, was begun in 1186. 29, Dec 25. & On the other side of the
The portal is flanked by a pair P University old city wall is the impressive
of unmatched towers. Inside, Largo dos Colegiais. Tel 266-740 875. 18th-century church of
a glittering treasury houses Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. São Francisco.
sacred art. Beside it stands a
16th-century palace that houses
the newly renovated Museu de
Évora, which has exhibits on the
history of the city from Roman
columns to modern sculpture.
Opposite the museum is a
Roman temple – erected in
the 2nd or 3rd century AD –
once believed to have been
dedicated to Diana.
Walk from the Sé past the
craft stores of Rua 5 de Outubro
to reach Praça do Giraldo, the
main square, with its Moorish
arcades and central fountain
(1571). In 1573, the square was
the site of an Inquisitional
burning. Just outside the city’s Orange trees in front of the Bishops’ Palace in the old city of Faro
PORTUGAL  357
The lively center of modern

Faro, along the Rua de
Santo António, is stylish and
pedestrianized, full of stores,
bars, and restaurants. A little to
the north is Faro’s parish church,
the Baroque and Italianate São
Pedro. In the nearby Largo do
Carmo is the impressive Igreja
do Carmo. Its magnificent
facade and richly decorated
interior are in sharp contrast to
its somber Capela dos Ossos
(Chapel of Bones), built in 1816.
At the far northeast corner of
the town is the Cemitério dos
Judeus. The Jewish cemetery
served from 1838 until 1932; Ocher sandstone rocks sheltering the Praia de Dona Ana beach, Lagos
there is no Jewish community
in Faro today. eroded ocher rocks. East of e Lagos
Albufeira, Vilamoura is set * 16,000. £ @ n Praça Gil
E Museu Municipal to become one of Europe’s Eanes (282-763 031). ( first Sat
Largo Dom Afonso III. Tel 289-870 827. largest leisure complexes. It has of month.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & a large marina with lively cafés,
stores, and restaurants. Lagos is set on one of the
Algarve’s largest bays; it
was the region’s capital from
w Portimão 1576–1756. The town suffered
* 40,000. £ @ n Avda Tomás badly in the 1755 earthquake,
Cabreira, Praia da Rocha (282-419 132). so as a result, most of the
( first Mon of month. buildings date from the late
18th and 19th centuries.
The Romans were attracted to In the 15th century, Lagos
Portimão by its natural harbor. became an important naval
It is still a flourishing fishing center, unfortunately also
port and one of the largest becoming the site of the first
towns in the Algarve. slave market in Europe.
The town center, around Lagos’s parish church is
the pedestrianized Rua Vasco the 16th-century Santa Maria.
da Gama, dates mainly from The 18th-century Santo
Yachts and powerboats at the Vilamoura the 18th century, since it António is worth a visit for its
marina, east of Albufeira was rebuilt after the 1755 Baroque azulejos and carving.
earthquake. The 14th-century The statue of St. Anthony, kept
q Albufeira origins of the church of Nossa in the church, accompanied
* 31,000. £ @ n Rua 5 de Senhora da Conceição are the local regiment during the
Outubro (289-585 279). ( 1st & 3rd revealed in its portico. The Peninsular War (1807–11).
Tue of month. interior contains 17th- and
18th-century azulejo panels. Environs
This charming fishing port has The promontory, Ponta da
become the tourist capital of Environs Piedade, shelters the bay of
the Algarve. The Romans built a Just 3 km (2 miles) south of Lagos and should not be
castle here and under the Arabs Portimão is Praia da Rocha, missed. Praia de Dona Ana
the town prospered from trade a series of fabulous sandy beach is 25 minutes’ walk from
with North Africa. The oldest coves. At its east end is the the town center, but Praia do
part of the town, around Rua 16th-century castle, Fortaleza Camilo may be less crowded.
da Igreja Velha, retains some de Santa Catarina, with a Meia Praia, east of Lagos,
original Moorish arches. superb view of the beach stretches for 4 km (2 miles).
and cliffs – and a swathe of Lying 10 km (6 miles) north
Environs high-rise hotels. Inland from is the peaceful Barragem de
From Praia de São Rafael, Portimão is the town of Silves, Bravura reservoir. Another
1 mile (2 km) west of Albufeira, once the Moorish capital, Xelb. popular excursion is south-
to Praia da Oura due east, the It has an impressive castle west to Sagres and the
area is punctuated by small and picturesque groves of rocky headland of Cabo
sandy coves set between orange and lemon trees. de São Vicente.
Practical & Travel Information Health Issues

For non-emergency medical
The Portuguese are a hospitable people, and in Lisbon, treatment, details of how to
Oporto, and the Algarve the choice of hotels, restaurants and contact an English-speaking
entertainment is vast, and English is widely spoken. Elsewhere, doctor can be found in English-
visitors will usually find help easily available, with locals keen language newspapers, such
as Algarve Resident.
to show off their region. Pharmacies (farmâcias) can
Travel and communication networks in Portugal have dispense a range of drugs that
improved greatly in recent years. For national travel there are would require a prescription in
efficient rail and bus services. Cities have buses and trams, many other countries. They
and both Lisbon and Porto have a metro as well. open from 9am to 1pm and
3pm to 7pm (not Sat), and carry
a sign with a green illuminated
Tourist Information the nearest Portuguese embassy cross. No vaccinations are
The country is divided into or consulate as this may change. needed for Portugal, although a
tourist regions, separate from its Citizens of the EU need only a typhoid shot and polio booster
administrative districts. All cities valid passport to enter Portugal. are recommended.
and large towns have a posto de
turismo (tourist office), where you
can obtain information about the Personal Security Facilities for the Disabled
region, lists of hotels, and details Violent crime is rare, but visitors These are limited, although
of regional events. Visitors can should take sensible precautions the situation is improving.
also consult Portuguese tourist after dark, especially in Lisbon, Wheelchairs and adapted
offices abroad. Oporto, and the Algarve. To restrooms are available at
Most state museums open report a crime, contact the airports and major stations,
from 10am to 5pm and are nearest police station. Ask for an and ramps, reserved parking,
usually closed on Mondays. Many interpreter if necessary. Theft of and elevators are becoming
museums and sights also close documents, such as a passport, more common. Lisbon has a
for lunch for one or two hours. should also be reported to your special taxi service, but you
In Lisbon, the convenient consulate or embassy. Many have to book well in advance.
Lisboa Card entitles visitors travel insurance companies insist
to free public transportation, on policy holders reporting thefts
and free or reduced entry to within 24 hours to substantiate Language and Etiquette
museums. It can be bought at any subsequent claim. Written Portuguese looks similar
the airport, the city’s tourist to Spanish, but its pronunciation
offices, and some hotels, travel is very different. The Portuguese
agents, and major sights. It is Emergency Services do not take kindly to being
valid for up to three days. The number to call in an spoken to in Spanish, so it is
emergency is 112. Ask for either useful to learn a few basic
polícia (the police), ambulância phrases before you go. It is polite
Visa Requirements (an ambulance), or bombeiros to address strangers as senhor or
There are currently no visa (the fire brigade). For emergency senhora and, when introduced to
requirements for American, medical treatment, you should someone, to shake their hand.
Canadian, Australian, and New go to the emergency room Although dress is generally
Zealand nationals for stays up to (serviço de urgência) of the relaxed, especially in the more
90 days. It is worth checking with nearest main hospital. tourist-oriented areas, when
visiting religious buildings,
arms and knees should be
The Climate of Portugal kept covered.
LISBON
In the south of the country,
especially along the sheltered °C/ºF Banking and Currency
coast of the Algarve, winters 28/82
are very mild, but July and 23/73 The currency in Portugal is the
19/67 17/63
August can be extremely hot. 14/57 14/57 euro (see p23). Money can be
12/53
Between April and October, 8/46 changed at most banks, hotels,
the north is pleasantly warm, and bureaux de change (câmbio).
though rain is not unusual. 9 12.5 7.5 5 Banks tend to offer a good rate
Winters in the north can be hrs hrs hrs hrs of exchange. Traveler’s checks
very cold, especially in the 47.5 0 65 95 can often be expensive to cash,
mountainous inland regions. mm mm mm mm although they are a safe way of
The best times to visit are month Apr Jul Oct Jan carrying money. Most major
spring and fall.
credit cards can be used to
make withdrawals from ATMs.
PORTUGAL  359
Communications Rail Travel Traveling by Car

The Portuguese postal Direct trains to Portugal go Portugal’s highway network
service is known as Correios. from Paris and Madrid. Once in is expanding, but many older
First-class mail (correio azul) Portugal, you can reach many roads are in need of repair
and overseas letters are posted places by rail, but services vary and minor roads can be
in blue mailboxes; second-class enormously. The high-speed Alfa treacherous. Driving can be
mail (normal) is posted in service from Lisbon to Oporto a hair-raising experience –
red mailboxes. via Coimbra and to the Algarve the country has one of the
Public payphones take is good, but local trains can be highest accident rates in
either coins or cards (including slow and infrequent. Fares are Europe and traffic jams are a
credit cards), although there cheap compared to other parts problem in and near cities.
are fewer payphones now due of Europe and tourist tickets are Beware of reckless drivers and
to widespread use of cell available, including the InterRail/ do not drive in the rush hour
phones. It is also possible to Eurail One Country Pass, valid if you can possibly avoid it.
make calls from post offices. for three, four, six, or eight days. If renting a car, check its
It is best to book in advance. condition and insurance very
Lisbon can be confusing for carefully. Always carry your
Flying to Portugal visitors as there are five main passport, car insurance, license,
Direct flights from New York stations. Santa Apolónia and and rental contract with you
(Newark) to Lisbon are operated Oriente (on the same line) serve (or you may incur a fine).
by United Airlines and TAP Air international routes and the Traffic drives on the right
Portugal. Once in Lisbon, north; for the Alentejo, you hand side and Continental
passengers can change for must take a ferry to Barreiro on European regulations apply.
Faro or Oporto. Internal flights the south bank of the Tagus. Seat belts must be worn. Speed
to Madeira and the Azores are Trains to the Algarve depart limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in
operated by SATA and easyJet. from Oriente. Trains from towns, 90 kph (55 mph) on
Many US airlines operate Rossio go to Sintra on the coast; other roads, and 120 kph
flights from the United States trains from Cais do Sodré serve (74 mph) on highways. Tolls are
to several European hubs, Estoril and Cascais. payable on highways and some
such as London, Paris, or bridges. Do not use the Via
Madrid, where passengers Verde (green lane) at tolls; this is
can change for Lisbon. Long-distance Buses for drivers who have paid
There are no direct flights Some long-distance bus automatically. If you are
to Portugal from Australia or services – Lisbon to Évora for involved in a car accident on a
New Zealand; visitors from example – are quicker and highway or a main road,
these countries should fly more comfortable than going use one of the orange SOS
via London or Madrid. Regular by train. Lisbon’s coach station telephones to call for help.
flights go from many European is located at Sete Rios. Tourist Gas stations can be scarce in
cities direct to Lisbon, Faro, offices and travel agencies remote areas, so always fill up
and Oporto in Portugal. offer information. your car before leaving a town.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Embassies US United Airlines
Avenida das Forças ∑ united.com
Lisbon Australia
Armadas, 1600-081
Lisboa Welcome Center, Av. da Liberdade 198–200,
Lisbon. Tel 217-273 300. Train Information
Praça do Comércio. 2nd floor, 1250-147
Tel 707-210 220.
Tel 210-312 810. Lisbon.
Tel 213-101 500.
Emergencies ∑ cp.pt
Oporto
Canada Ambulance, Police, Car Rental
Rua Clube dos Fenianos
Av. da Liberdade 198–200, and Fire services
25. Tel 223-393 472. Auto Jardim, Faro
3rd floor, 1269-121 Tel 112.
∑ visitporto.travel Tel 289-818 491.
Lisbon.
UK Tel 213-164 600. Airlines ∑ auto-jardim.com
11 Belgrave Square,
Ireland Budget, Oporto
easyJet
London SW1X 8PP. Av. da Liberdade 200, 4th Tel 808-25 26 27.
∑ easyjet.com
Tel 020-7201 6666. Floor, 1250-147 Lisbon. ∑ budget.com.pt
US Tel 213-308 200. SATA Europcar, Faro

Tel 707-227 282. Tel 289-818 726.
866 Second Ave, 8th floor, UK
New York, NY 10017. Rua de São Bernardo 33, TAP Air Portugal Hertz, Lisbon
Tel 646-723 0200. 1249-082 Lisbon. Tel 707-205 700. Tel 219-426 300.
∑ visitportugal.com Tel 213-924 000. ∑ flytap.com ∑ hertz.pt
Shopping & Entertainment but you will also see sites devoted
to antiques, pottery, lace, rugs,
Traditional arts and crafts flourish in Portugal. A wide range of clothes, and local crafts. Most
interesting pottery can be found in all parts of the country, markets are held in the morning
while in the north embroidery, lace, and gold-filigree jewelry only, but in tourist areas they
from the Minho region make unusual presents. Many visitors may go on until late afternoon.
come to Portugal for the sporting facilities, principally the golf
courses of the Algarve. Watersports, both in the Algarve and Food and Drink
on the wilder west coast, are another great attraction. Tourists Some visitors may want to buy
are usually encouraged to sample fado, Lisbon’s native folk regional produce, such as Serra
music, and there are also classical cultural events to be cheese from the Serra da Estrela
mountains. However, more are
enjoyed in the big cities and at annual festivals.
likely to bring back a bottle as a
souvenir – most probably of
port. It is not especially cheap,
Where to Shop examples come from towns in but you will never have the
Although it is not difficult to find the Minho such as Viana do opportunity to sample so many
stores that seem a little behind Castelo, also famous for its styles and vintages as you will
the times when compared with brightly printed shawls. on a tour of the port lodges of
other European countries, Embroidered bedspreads are Vila Nova de Gaia (see p355).
modern shopping malls are now made in Castelo Branco in the When it comes to table wines
a common feature of most cities. Beira Baixa, and colorful carpets you might enjoy the young,
In Lisbon, Amoreiras shopping are sold in the Alentejo. slightly sparkling vinho verde
center led the way, with 247 Filigree jewelry (filigrana) from from Minho in the north, an
shops, underground parking, the Minho is typically worn at aged red Dão, or one of the
movie theaters, and restaurants. local festivals. Gold and silver southern wines from Alentejo.
Colombo followed, and is threads are worked into intricate
Portugal’s largest mall. brooches, earrings, and pendants.
Cascaishopping, between Sintra Woven baskets, produced Entertainment Listings
and Estoril, is similar in style. throughout the country, make and Tickets
Opening times for shopping delightful souvenirs. Cork Tickets for almost all events in
centers are usually from 10am from the Alentejo is used to Lisbon can be bought in FNAC
until 11pm daily (including make articles such as mats stores, or be reserved by visiting
Sunday). Ordinary stores open at and ice buckets. or phoning the Agência de
9am or 10am and close at 7pm, Bilhetes para Espectáculos
though smaller stores and those (ABEP). Pay in cash when you
in quieter areas usually close for Ceramics collect them from the kiosk.
lunch between 1pm and 3pm. In most cities, you can buy as Some movie theaters and
well as commission ceramic tiles theaters take phone or
and panels. Portugal has a long- credit-card reservations.
Reclaiming Tax standing tradition of ceramics, Previews of forthcoming events
Value Added Tax (IVA) can be both for decorative purposes and listings of bars and clubs
reclaimed by non-EU residents and for home use. Styles range appear in several magazines
who stay for less than 180 days. from elegant Vista Alegre Atlantis in Lisbon. English-language
Ask for an Isenção de IVA form or porcelain to simple glazed publications include the monthly
invoice in triplicate, describing brown earthenware, plain or Follow Me Lisboa, which is
the goods, quantity, value, and painted with simple patterns. available free from tourist offices.
buyer’s identity (best done where Antique azulejos are highly
you see the “Global Blue” signs). sought after and very expensive,
Present the forms at customs but you can buy reproductions Classical Music, Opera,
on departure. of well-known historic designs and Dance
at places such as Lisbon’s Museu Lisbon’s top cultural centers
Nacional do Azulejo (see p342). are the Fundação Calouste
What to Buy Gulbenkian and the vast Centro
Portugal is not expensive when Cultural de Belém. These host
compared with the rest of Markets national and international events,
Europe, and prices are very A social and commercial including ballet, opera, and
reasonable for traditional crafts, occasion, the street market is concerts. The Portuguese
especially away from the big integral to Portuguese life. It is national opera house is the
cities and tourist centers. The usually held in the town’s main Teatro Nacional de São Carlos.
Portuguese are well known for square. Most markets sell a wide One of the best Classical music
their delicate embroidery and range of goods, from food to festivals is the summer festival in
fine lace. Some of the finest household items and clothes, Sintra (see p350).
PORTUGAL  361
Theater and Cinema Outdoor Activities top professionals. Some of the

In Lisbon, theater-lovers can Although a small country, best courses insist that players
enjoy performances of Portugal offers a great variety show a reasonable degree of
Portuguese and foreign- of terrain, with sports and proficiency, while others
language plays at the Teatro activities to match. Water- welcome golfers of any ability
Nacional Dona Maria II. sports are extremely popular and provide excellent coaching.
Cult movies and international along its 500 miles (800 km) of Serious golfers might consider
arthouse films can be seen at coast. The best beach for booking a specialist golf
the Cinemateca Portuguesa, surfing is the world-famous vacation. For information on
which has a comprehensive Guincho, near Cascais (see golfing activities and vacations,
monthly film calendar. p350). However, the ocean contact the Federação
In Portugal, movies are almost breakers there are only suitable Portuguesa de Golfe.
always shown in the original for experienced surfers. In fact, Tennis courts are found
language version with all along the Atlantic coast virtually all over Portugal,
Portuguese subtitles. conditions can be dangerous especially alongside tourist
for swimming and watersports, facilities. Some of the larger
hence the appeal of the Algarve resorts offer tennis-
Fado sheltered bays of the Algarve. coaching vacations. Based in
Fado is an expression of longing These are well-equipped for all London, Jonathan Markson
and sorrow. Literally meaning kinds of activities. Windsurfing Tennis organizes special
“fate,” the term may be applied boards and small sailboats can vacation packages at resorts in
to an individual song as well as be rented at most resorts and Portugal for tennis enthusiasts.
the genre itself. The dominant lessons are easily arranged. The
emotion is saudade – a longing marinas at Lagos and the giant
for what has been lost or has vacation complex of Vilamoura Bullfighting
never been attained. It is sung are the most important Portuguese bullfighting differs
as often by women as men, yachting centers. from the Spanish version in
accompanied by the guitarra (a Many parts of Portugal’s rugged many ways. The bull is not
flat-backed instrument shaped interior are excellent for hiking, killed in the ring and the star
like a mandolin, with paired cycling, and horseback riding. of the show is the horseman
strings) and the viola (acoustic (cavaleiro). An added attraction
Spanish guitar). is the pega, in which a team
The traditional way to enjoy Golf and Tennis of men, the forcados, attempts
fado is with a meal at a fado Most of Portugal’s best golf to topple the bull and
house. It can be an expensive courses are concentrated in the immobilize it with their
night out, so make sure you like Algarve, which has gained a bare hands.
fado before you go. The best reputation as one of Europe’s The traditional center for
establishments are run by the prime destinations for golfing bullfighting is the Ribatejo,
fadistas themselves, for example vacations. The mild climate but Lisbon has a splendid
the Parreirinha de Alfama, which ensures that a game can be Neo-Moorish arena at Campo
was founded by the legendary enjoyed all year round, and many Pequeno, which now has a
performer, Argentina Santos. courses have been designed by modern retractable ceiling.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Classical Music, Theater and Golf and Tennis
Opera, and Dance Cinema
Amoreiras Federação
Avenida Eng. Duarte Centro Cultural Cinemateca Portuguesa de Golfe
Pacheco. Tel 213-810 240. de Belém Portuguesa Tel 214-123 780.
Praça do Império, Rua Barata Salgueiro 39,
Cascaishopping Jonathan Markson
Belém, Lisbon. Lisbon.
Estrada Nacional 9, Tennis
Tel 213-596 200.
Alcabideche - Estoril. Tel 213-612 400. Riverbank House,
Tel 210-121 628. Teatro Nacional 1 Putney Bridge
Fundação Calouste Dona Maria II Approach, London
Colombo Gulbenkian Praça Dom Pedro IV, SW6 3BQ, UK.
Avenida Lusíada, Lisbon. Avenida de Berna 45, Lisbon. Tel 020-7603 2422.
Tel 217-113 600. Lisbon. Tel 213-250 800.
Tel 217-823 000.
Entertainment Fado
Teatro Nacional de
Tickets
São Carlos Parreirinha de
ABEP Rua Serpa Pinto 9, Alfama
Praça dos Restauradores, Lisbon. Beco do Espírito Santo 1,
Lisbon. Tel 213-470 768. Tel 213-253 000. Lisbon. Tel 218-868 209.
362  PORTUGAL
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
€ under €60
€€ €60 to €150
€€€ over €150
COIMBRA: Vintage Lofts €

Historic
Rua Simão de Évora, 11, 3000-386
Tel 964-326 556
∑ coimbravintagelofts.com
Modern decor and 18th-century architecture feature at Solar do Castelo, Alfama Studios and apartments in a
tastefully renovated 18th-century
building. Daily housekeeping.
DK Choice
Lisbon
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: COIMBRA:
ALFAMA: Solar do Castelo €€€ Internacional Quinta das Lágrimas €€€
Historic Map E3 Design Hotel €€€ Historic
Rua das Cozinhas 2, 1100-181 Boutique Map E3 Rua António Augusto Gonçalves,
Tel 218-806 050 Rua da Betesga 3, 1100-090 3041-901
∑ solardocastelo.com Tel 213-240 990 Tel 239-802 380
Housed in a splendid 18th- ∑ idesignhotel.com ∑ quintadaslagrimas.pt
century mansion, Solar do Each floor of this hotel is based A luxurious palace with a spa and
Castelo has both modern and around a different theme: gorgeous botanical gardens.
classic decor. urban chic, Zen philosophy,
tribal, and pop culture. The OPORTO:
BAIRRO ALTO: Lisbon delicious breakfasts, choice of Grande Hotel de Paris €€
Dreams Guesthouse €€ pillows, and butler service Historic
Modern Map C3 make for a great stay. Rua da Fábrica, 27/29, 4050-247
Rua Rodrigo Da Fonseca 29, 1250-189 Tel 222-073 140
Tel 213-872 393 ∑ hotelparis.pt
∑ lisbondreamsguesthouse.com BELÉM: Pestana Palace Hotel €€€ Rooms have antique furnishings
Rooms at this bright and cheerful Historic and balconies at this Art Deco
hotel have shared bathrooms. Rua Jau 54, 1300-314 hotel with a lovely garden.
There is also an apartment for Tel 213-615 600
longer stays. ∑ pestana.com
A 19th-century palace featuring DK Choice
BAIRRO ALTO: lavish rooms and suites. OPORTO: The Yeatman €€€
Bairro Alto Hotel €€€ Modern
Boutique Map D3 Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
Praça Luis De Camões, Nº 2, Tel 220-133 100
1200-243 Rest of Portugal ∑ the-yeatman-hotel.com
Tel 213-408 288 An award-winning hotel, The
∑ bairroaltohotel.com ALBUFEIRA: Grande Real Santa Yeatman has a stylish decor.
Stay in this luxurious boutique Eulália Resort & Hotel Spa €€€ Famous for its attentive service
hotel featuring a gourmet Modern and exquisite gourmet food, it
restaurant and a massage room. Praia Santa Eulália, 8200-916 also offers a pool, spa, and an
Tel 289-598 000 indoor hot tub with great views.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: ∑ realhotelsgroup.com
Shiado Hostel € Modern, well-equipped five-star
Boutique Map D3 beach resort with a Thalasso spa SINTRA: Sintra Bliss Hotel €€
Rua Anchieta, 5, 3rd floor, 1200-023 and diverse range of restaurants. Boutique
Tel 213-429 227 Rua Dr. Alfredo Costa, Nº.15–17,
∑ shiadohostel.com 2710-524
A designer “superhostel” offering DK Choice Tel 219-244 541
private rooms. Colorful and CASCAIS: ∑ sintra-b-hotels.com
bright, with a shared kitchen and Pérgola Guest House €€ Stay in rooms with contemporary
bathrooms. Buffet breakfast. Historic interiors and private balconies.
Avenida Valbom 13, 2750-508 Two-room apartment available.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: Tel 214-840 040
Métropole €€ ∑ pergolahouse.pt SINTRA:
Historic Map D3 A beautiful 19th-century Tivoli Palácio de Seteais €€€
Praça Dom Pedro IV 30, 1100-200 mansion with marble floors, Historic
Tel 213-219 030 stucco ceilings, and ornate Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, 2710-517
∑ themahotels.pt furnishings. The friendly owners Tel 219-233 200
This hotel retains an elegant serve guests a complimentary ∑ tivolihotels.com
retro vibe, with authentic Art glass of port. This romantic hotel is housed in
Deco furnishings. an 18th-century mansion.

BELÉM: Vela Latina €€ Price Guide
Lisbon Modern Portuguese Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, with half a bottle of
Doca do Bom Sucesso, 1400-038
house wine, and all extra charges.
ALFAMA: Tentações de Goa €€ Tel 213-017 118 Closed Sun
Goan Map E3 Peaceful, stylish restaurant set in € under €20
Rua São Pedro Mártir 23, 1100-555 lush gardens with views of the €€ €20 to €40
€€€ over €40
Tel 218-875 824 Closed Mon lunch; river and the marina. Popular
Sun; public holidays dishes include lobster-filled
Brightly painted walls and a crêpes and hake fillet with rice. CASCAIS: Casa Velha €€
friendly welcome make this a Seafood
cheerful dining option. The chef CHIADO: Avenida Valbom 1, 2750-508
cooks outstanding Goan cuisine Café Buenos Aires €€ Tel 214-832 586 Closed Wed in
and will adapt the level of spice Steak House Map D3 winter
to individual tastes. Cash only. Calçada do Duque 31, 1200-155 Casa Velha features a rustic
Tel 213-420 739 ambience with stone walls. Menu
Enjoy succulent and cooked-to- favorites include caldeirada de
DK Choice perfection Argentinian steaks in a peixe (fish stew) and paella.
BAIRRO ALTO: cozy, unpretentious setting. Also
Taberna Ideal €€ try the flower salad. Book ahead.
Modern Portuguese Map C4 DK Choice
Rua Esperança 112, 1120-114 LAPA: Restaurante Lapa €€€ COIMBRA: A Taberna €€
Tel 213-962 744 Closed lunch Portuguese/Italian Map B4 Traditional Portuguese Map C3
(except Sun); Mon & Tue Olissippo Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau Rua dos Combatentes da Grande
This warm taverna serves da Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Guerra 86, 3030-181
traditional Portuguese cuisine Tel 213-949 494 Tel 239-716 265 Closed Sun
with a modern twist. Expect Housed in a 19th-century palace, dinner; Mon lunch
great explanations and advice this refined restaurant serves This lovely eatery with a warm
on the inventive menu, which is gourmet dishes, such as leitão de interior offers local delicacies
designed to be shared. Perfect porco preto (suckling black pig). prepared in an open kitchen.
for all – solo travelers, couples, Exemplary wine list. The veal is tender and delicious,
and groups. Reservations highly as is the octopus. The home-
recommended. Cash only. made bread with requeijão
(ricotta cheese) is divine.
Rest of Portugal
BAIXA AND AVENIDA:
Os Tibetanos € OPORTO: Cometa €€
Vegetarian Map D3 International
Rua do Salitre 117, 1250-198 DK Choice Rua Tomás Gonzaga 87, 4050-607
Tel 213-142 038 Closed Sun AMARANTE: Tel 916-582 608 Closed lunch;
This informal restaurant with a Largo do Paço €€€ Sun
garden terrace serves a healthy International The menu at Cometa features
selection of Tibetan dishes, Casa da Calçada, Largo do Paço dishes from countries as far apart
plus international options like 6, 4600-017 as Vietnam and Poland. Cash
tofu with pesto. Cash only. Tel 255-410 830 only; reservations recommended.
The elegant Largo do Paço
BAIXA AND AVENIDA: boasts a Michelin star and OPORTO: The Yeatman €€€
Fábulas €€ offers a culinary experience International
Modern Portuguese Map D3 that would satisfy the most Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 14, refined and demanding taste Tel 220-133 100
1200-300 buds. Chef André Silva changes This luxurious Michelin-starred
Tel 216-018 472 Closed Sun the various degustation menus restaurant is bound to impress.
Exposed brickwork offset by an seasonally to incorporate the Fantastic views accompany an
eclectic collection of furniture sets freshest ingredients. inspired gourmet menu and a
the tone at this café. A number of well-chosen wine list.
seating areas accommodate both
mood and the weather. The
menu offers snacks and meals,
and the wine list is great.
BAIXA AND AVENIDA:

Bistro 100 Maneiras €€€
International Map D3
Largo Trindade 9, 1200-466
Tel 210-990 475 Closed lunch; Sun
Bistro 100 Maneiras is a
glamorous place favored by
a fashionable clientele. The
upstairs dining area is quite
charming, and the creative
menu features world cuisine. Alfresco dining under large parasols at Fábulas, Lisbon
ITALY AND
GREECE
Italy and Greece

Italy 368–443
Greece 444–489
366  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E
Italy and Greece at a Glance

The appeal of Italy and Greece is both cultural and
hedonistic. As the cradles of Europe’s two great Classical
civilizations, both countries are famous for their ancient
temples and monuments, concentrated principally in
the cities of Rome and Athens. Located in the southern
half of Europe, Italy and Greece share a sunny
Mediterranean climate and a correspondingly
laid-back way of life. Away from the
main cultural sights, the
peaceful countryside,
beautiful beaches, and Trieste
warm seas guarantee Milan
Venice
a relaxed vacation.
Turin
Parma
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Ancona
Siena
ITALY Pescara
(see pp368–443)
Rome
Foggia
Naples
Venice (see pp414–23) is a

city quite unlike any other: a Sardinia
fabulous treasure house of
art and architecture, built
on a series of islands, where
there are no cars and the Cagliari
streets are canals.
Reggio di
Calabria
Palermo
Florence (see pp394–407) Sicily

embodies the Renaisssance of
art and learning in the 15th
century. Familiar masterpieces
of the period, such as this copy
of Michelangelo’s David, adorn
the streets.
Rome (see pp374–

87) owes its grandest
monuments to the
era of papal rule.
The vast colonnaded
square in front of
St. Peter’s and the
Vatican was created
by Bernini in the
17th century.
Aerial view of Florence from Fiesole hill on a foggy morning, Italy
Locator Map
The Peloponnese (see pp466–9), a large peninsula, connected

to the rest of the Greek mainland by the Corinth isthmus,
abounds in ancient and medieval ruins. The heavily fortified
sea port of Monemvasía, in the southeastern corner, has many
well-preserved Byzantine and Venetian buildings.
Serres
Bari
Athens (see pp450–57)
Brindisi Thessaloníki is renowned for its
Kozani unrivaled collection of
Classical antiquities.
The world-famous
Ioannina Lárisa Acropolis is dominated
Corfu by the 2,500-year-old
GREECE Parthenon, built as an
(see pp444–89) expression of the glory
of ancient Greece.
Patra Athens
Kalamata
0 km 100 Rhodes Town
0 miles 100 Rhodes
Irákleio
Crete
Crete (see pp476–7), the largest and most

southerly of the Greek islands, boasts clear
blue seas and fine sandy beaches. Inland,
there are ancient Minoan palaces and
dramatic mountainous landscapes.
I TA LY A N D G R E E C E  369
ITALY
Italy has drawn people in search of culture and romance for centuries. Few
countries can compete with its Classical origins, its art, architecture, musical,
and literary traditions, its scenery, or its food and wine. Since World War II, Italy
has climbed into the top ten world economies, yet at its heart it retains many of
the customs, traditions, and regional allegiances of its agricultural heritage.
Italy has no single cultural identity. Germany and France, while the south
Between the snowy peaks of the Alps has suffered a succession of invasions
and the rugged shores of Sicily lies a from foreign powers: Carthaginians and
whole series of regions, each with its Greeks in ancient times, Saracens and
own distinctive dialect, architecture, Normans in the Middle Ages, and until
and cuisine. There is also a larger regional the middle of the last century, the
division. People speak of two Italies: Bourbons from Spain held sway.
the rich industrial north and the poorer
agricultural south, known as Il Mezzogiorno History
(Land of the Midday Sun). Italy is a young country; it did not exist as
The north is directly responsible for a unified nation state until 1861. The idea
Italy’s place among the world’s top of Italy as a geographic entity goes back to
industrial nations, a success achieved the time of the Etruscans, but prior to the
by names such as Fiat, Pirelli, Olivetti, 19th century, the only time the peninsula
Zanussi, Alessi, and Armani. The south, was united was under the Romans, who
in contrast, has high unemployment, by the 2nd century BC had subdued the
many areas in the grip of organized other Italian tribes and the Greek colonies
crime, and regions that rank among around the coast. Rome became the
the most depressed in Europe. capital of a huge empire, introducing
History and geography have both its language, laws, and calendar to most
contributed to the division. The north of Europe before falling to Germanic
is closer both in location and spirit to invaders in the 5th century AD.
The softly undulating hills of Tuscany

The awe inspiring ruins of the Roman Forum, Rome
fought to decide which of them

should be in charge of their
nebulous empire.
Meanwhile, a succession of foreign
invaders – Normans, Angevins, and
Aragonese – conquered Sicily and
the south. The north, in contrast,
saw a growth of independent city
The ostentatious Victor Emmanuel Monument in Rome, built to commemorate
the completion of the unification of Italy in 1870
states, the most powerful being
Venice, fabulously wealthy from
Another important legacy of the Roman trade with the East. Northern Italy became
Empire was Christianity, with the pope as the most prosperous and cultured region
head of the Catholic church throughout in western Europe, and it was the artists
western Europe. The medieval papacy and scholars of 15th-century Florence
summoned the Franks to drive out the who inspired the Renaissance. Small,
Lombards from Italy and, in AD 800, fragmented states, however, could not
crowned the Frankish king Charlemagne compete with great powers. In the 16th
Holy Roman Emperor. Unfortunately, for century, Italy’s petty kingdoms fell prey to
five centuries, popes and emperors a foreign invader, this time to Spain. The
north subsequently came under the
KEY DATES IN ITALIAN HISTORY control of Austria, while the papacy ruled
c.800 BC First Greek colonists reach Italy a small region in the center.
c.700 BC Rise of the Etruscans One small kingdom that remained
509 BC Foundation of Roman Republic independent was Piedmont, and in the
202 BC Victory over Carthaginians makes Rome 19th century it became the focus for a
dominant power in the Mediterranean movement towards a united Italy, a goal
27 BC Augustus establishes Roman Empire that was achieved in 1870, thanks largely
AD 476 Collapse of Western Roman Empire to the heroic military exploits of Garibaldi.
564 Lombards invade northern Italy In the 1920s, the Fascists seized power
878 Saracens gain control of Sicily and, in 1946, the monarchy was
1061 Start of Norman conquest of Sicily abandoned for today’s republic.
1321 Dante writes The Divine Comedy Governments in the postwar era have
15th century Medici rule Florence; Renaissance consistently been short-lived coalitions,
1527 Sack of Rome by Emperor’s troops puts end to dominated by the Christian Democrats.
political ambitions of the papacy
Investigations in Milan in 1992 revealed
1713 Much of the north passes to Austria
an organized network of corruption
1735 Bourbon dynasty become rulers of Naples and
Sicily (Kingdom of the Two Sicilies) which exposed a huge number of
1860 Garibaldi and the Thousand capture Kingdom politicians and businessmen. Between
of the Two Sicilies 1994 and 2011, the political scene was
1861 Unification of most of Italy under House of dominated by Silvio Berlusconi. His fall
Savoy, rulers of Piedmont and Sardinia
was followed by a period of instability
1870 Rome becomes capital of modern Italy
until 2013, when young Left Democrat
1922 Fascists come to power under Mussolini
Matteo Renzi became Prime Minister.
1946 Foundation of modern Italian republic
2002 Italy joins European single currency Tradition and Progress
2006 Italy wins World Cup in Germany
Variations between Italy’s regions have
2013 Former president Silvio Berlusconi expelled
from parliament due to tax fraud conviction much to do with the mountainous
2013 Pope Francis is elected after Benedict XVI’s landscape and inaccessible valleys.
unprecedented resignation Throughout the country, ancient
techniques of husbandry endure and
I TA LY  371
many livelihoods are linked to the land and

the seasons. Main crops include wheat,
olives, and grapes. Although some of the
north’s postwar economic prosperity can
be attributed to industry (especially car
production in Turin), much of it has grown
from the expansion of family-owned
artisan businesses exporting handmade
goods abroad. The clothes chain, Benetton,
is a typical example of Italian design flair Children on their way to take First Communion in the Basilica di
capturing a large slice of the global market. Monte Berico, Vicenza
Language and Culture Modern Life

A tradition of literary Italian was established The number of practising Catholics in Italy
back in the 14th century by the poets is in decline. In spite of this, Italian society
Dante and Petrarch, who wrote in a is still highly traditional, and Italians can be
cultured Florentine dialect. Yet, even today, very formal. Italian chic decrees that your
with national television and radio stations, clothes should give the impression of
Italy’s regional dialects are resilient and wealth. If people wear similar outfits, it is
northerners have great difficulty because Italians are conformists in fashion
understanding a Neapolitan or Sicilian. as in many other aspects of daily life.
The arts in Italy have enjoyed a long and The emphasis on conformity and a
glorious history and Italians are very proud commitment to the family remain key
of this. Given the fact that Italy has some factors in Italian society despite the
100,000 monuments of major historical country’s low, and falling, birth rate.
significance, it is not surprising that there is Grandparents, children and grandchildren
a shortage of funds to keep them in good still live in family units, although this is
repair. However, with tourism accounting becoming less common. All children are
for 3 percent of Italy’s GDP, efforts are being pampered but the most cherished ones
made to put as many great buildings and are, usually, male. Attitudes to women in
art collections on show as possible. the workplace have changed, particularly
The performing arts are also underfunded, in the cities. However, the idea that men
yet there are spectacular cultural festivals. should help with housework is still a fairly
In the land of Verdi and Rossini, opera is foreign notion to the older generation.
well supported, with an opera house in Food and football are the great
almost every town. Cinema is another art constants; Italians live for both. Much time
form that flourishes, with great directors of is spent on preparing food and eating.
the second half of the 20th century, such The Italian diet, particularly in the south,
as Federico Fellini, and Vittorio de Sica. is among the healthiest in the world.
Football is a national passion and inspires
massive public interest.
Despite the political upheaval and
corruption scandals of the 1990s, Italy
appears little changed to foreign visitors,
maintaining its regional identities and
traditional values. The cost of living has
soared, however, since the introduction
of the euro in 2002, leading to increased
poverty for some. The global economic
The Italian soccer team lined up before a match crisis has also had a serious impact on Italy.
Innsbruck
Exploring Italy
Zurich
S W IT Z ERLA N D
Italy’s elongated shape means travel 1 Bolzano
S4
can take up a fair proportion of your S42
visit. Rome, Florence, and Venice Lake Como
Domodossola (Lago di Como) Trento
are naturally the main tourist Lake Maggiore
(Lago Maggiore) Lake Garda
destinations, but there are many A5 (Lago di Garda)
Bergamo
other attractive historic towns and Aosta
Malpensa
Brescia Verona
cities that merit a detour of a A4 Linate
A4
A5 MilanA
couple of days or more. Visitors 1 Mantua
Po N482
with time to explore often choose
A7
Turin (Mantova)
(Torino) Po
S2
to tour a particular region, such as A21
A2 2
3
Parma
A2
Tuscany, the Veneto, or the island A1
S 45
o
5
6
ar
Ta n A1
of Sicily. Road and rail connections
S20
Genoa
A6 (Genova) Bologna
are generally better in the north, S21 A10 Portofino
where Milan, Bologna, and Verona Peninsula
A1
2
La Spezia
are the key transport hubs. A11
San Remo
Lucca
Florence
Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze)
MONACO
F R AN C E Sea Livorno San
Gimignano
Marseille Siena
S1
S 2 23
Piombino
Bastia Elba
N193
Orbetello
Cor s i c a
N198
Sights at a Glance Ajaccio

1 Rome pp374–87 u Verona
2 Assisi pp388–9 i Vicenza
3 Perugia o Padua
4 Siena pp390–92 p Venice pp414–23
5 San Gimignano a Ferrara
S1
Porto Olbia
6 Florence pp394–407 s Bologna
25
Torres
Sassari
7 Pisa d Ravenna
S 1 31
8 Lucca f Urbino Alghero 31d

S1
9 Portofino Peninsula g Naples
0 Genoa h Pompeii
q Turin j Amalfi Coast
Sardinia
w Milan k Palermo
S125
S1
31
e Lake Maggiore l Taormina
r Lake Como z Mount Etna
S130
t Lake Garda x Syracuse Cagliari
y Mantua c Agrigento
MEDITER
RAN
EAN
0 km 80
0 miles 80
Tunis

I TA LY  373
Salzburg
A US TR I A
Distance chart
Rome Distance by road in kilometers
Cortina d'Ampezzo
2

A2
S5
383
1
A23 Bologna
SLOVENIA 238
Belluno Udine
Ljubljana 562 783
S13 Brindisi
349 487
Zagreb 278 106 832
66 517
Florence
Treviso 173
Vicenza Trieste 510 291 1064 225
A4 317 181 661 140
Genoa
Venice Rijeka 575 210 990 299 145
Padua (Venezia) 357 130 615 186 90 Milan
(Padova)
Adige 219 594 354 489 714 786
Naples
Ferrara 136 369 220 304 444 488
S309
673 332 1111 395 170 138 884 Turin

S1
418 206 691 245 106 86 549
6
530 154 928 255 397 273 741 402 Venice

Ravenna 329 96 577 158 247 170 460 250
Rimini
SAN
MARINO Pesaro
CROATIA
S71
S3
Urbino Ancona
S7 6
Split
Gubbio
BOSNIA AND
A1
4
Perugia
A1
S77
HERZEGOVINA
Assisi Ascoli
Piceno Adriatic
S4
Todi
Orvieto Sea Dubrovnikk
Pescara
4
A2
L'Aquila
Viterbo
A1
Isole
A25
Civitavécchia
4
Sulmona Tremiti
Fiumicino
ROME (Roma)
S1
48
I T A L Y S8
9
Greece,
A1
Anzio Foggia Egypt
N85
S 213
S87
S7
Benevento A14 Bari
Naples
(Napoli) A16 Greece
6
Pompeii
N9
A14
Isola d'Ischia 16
S
Amalfi Brindisi
Isola di Capri Amalfi S407
S7
Coast Taranto Lecce
Agr i
S16
S18
06
S1
Ty r r h e n i a n A3
Sea
S1
8
Ionian
Sea
Cosenza
Catanzaro
e Eolie o Lípari
Isol
3
06
A
S1
Palermo Reggio di
Isole Messina Calabria
Egadi Trapani Key
A29 A20
8
Highway
A1
A1 9
Mount Etna Taormina
SE Major road
A A19 Catania
Railroad
Tunis Agrigento S i c i ly
S11
5 Syracuse Ferry route
(Siracusa)
Isola di Ragusa
Pantelleria
Malta

1 Rome VIALE
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From its early days as a settlement of shepherds on the Palatine LE
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VIA
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FLA
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MIN
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IA
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Flaminio
at the heart of Rome. In 1870, Rome became the capital of a
newly unified Italy, and now has over 2.8 million inhabitants. PIAZZA DEL
POPOLO
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Getting Around
A
Sights at a Glance Rome’s subway system is known

w Roman Forum
as la metropolitana (metro for
1 St. Peter’s pp376–7 e Palatine
short). Line A crosses the city
2 Vatican Museums pp378–80 r Colosseum
from northwest to southeast, Line
3 Castel Sant’Angelo t Santa Maria Maggiore B from southwest to northeast.
4 Villa Farnesina y Trevi Fountain The two lines meet at Stazione
5 Santa Maria in Trastevere u Spanish Steps Termini, the city’s central station,
6 Piazza Navona i Santa Maria del Popolo which is also the starting point
7 Pantheon o Museo e Galleria Borghese for many bus routes. A third
8 Galleria Doria Pamphilj p Villa Giulia metro line is due for completion
9 Gesù in 2018. Official taxis are white or
0 Capitoline Museums yellow. Walking is preferable to
q Trajan’s Markets driving in the city’s narrow streets.
ROME  375
Greater Rome
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1 St. Peter’s
Catholicism’s most sacred shrine, the . Dome
vast, marble-encrusted basilica draws The 137 m (448 ft)
dome, designed by
pilgrims and tourists from all over the Michelangelo, was not
world. A shrine was erected on the site completed until 1590,
of St. Peter’s tomb in the 2nd century long after his death.
and the first basilica was commissioned
by Constantine. Centuries later, in 1506,
Pope Julius II laid the first stone of a
new church while the original basilica
was still in use. The present basilica,
187 m (615 ft) long, took more than
a century to build and all the great
architects of the Roman Renaissance
and Baroque had a hand in its design.
The dominant tone of the interior is set
by Bernini, creator of the baldacchino
below Michelangelo’s
magnificent dome.
Baldacchino
Commissioned by Urban VIII
in 1624, Bernini’s extravagant
Baroque canopy stands
above the Papal Altar, a plain
slab of marble, at which only
the pope may say mass. The
altar is sited directly above the
tomb of St. Peter in the
Grottoes below.
KEY
1 The Treasury is reached via the Monument to Pope

Sacristy. It houses ecclesiastical Alexander VII
treasures, including reliquaries, Bernini’s last work in St. Peter’s was
tombs, and vestments. finished in 1678 and shows the pope
surrounded by the allegorical figures
2 The apse is dominated by of Truth, Justice, Charity,
Bernini’s spectacular bronze and Prudence.
monument containing the
Throne of St. Peter in Glory.
3 Two minor cupolas by
Vignola (1507–73).
4 The facade (1614) is by
Carlo Maderno, who lengthened
the basilica to create its Latin-
cross floorplan.
5 From this window, the pope
blesses the faithful gathered in the The Grottoes
piazza below. A fragment of this
6 The nave floor has markings that 13th-century mosaic by
show the lengths of other churches Giotto, salvaged from the old
compared with St. Peter’s. basilica, is now in the Grottoes,
where many popes are buried.
ROME  377
. Statue of St. Peter VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This 13th-century bronze is thought to
be by Arnolfo di Cambio. The foot of the Practical Information
statue has worn thin from the kisses of Piazza San Pietro.
millions of pilgrims over the centuries. Tel 06-69 88 37 31.
∑ vatican.va
Basilica: Open 7am–7pm
(Oct–Mar: to 6:30pm) daily. 7
Treasury: Open 8am–7pm
(Oct–Mar: to 6:15pm) daily. &
Grottoes: Open 8am–6pm
(Oct–Mar: to 5:30pm) daily.
Dome: Open 8am–6pm
(Oct–Mar: to 5pm) daily. &
Strict dress code inside church.
Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro.
@ 23, 40, 49, 64, 81, 492.
. Michelangelo’s Pietà
Protected by glass since an attack in 1972,
the Pietà stands in the first side chapel on
the right. It was created in 1499 when
Michelangelo was only 25.
Filarete Door
This bronze door,
decorated with reliefs
by Filarete (1439–45),
was one of the doors
of the old St. Peter’s.
Entrance for stairs

to dome
Main entrance
Piazza San Pietro

The piazza in front of St. Peter’s is enclosed
by a vast pincer-shaped colonnade by
Bernini. It is topped by statues of saints.
2 Vatican Museums
Four centuries of papal patronage and Gallery of the
connoisseurship have resulted in one of the Candelabra
Once an open
world’s great collections of Classical and loggia, this gallery
Renaissance art. The Vatican houses many of Greek and
of the great archaeological finds of central Roman sculpture
Italy, including the Laocoön group and the has a fine view
of the Vatican
Apollo del Belvedere. The museums are Gardens.
housed in palaces originally built for wealthy
Renaissance popes such as Innocent VIII,
Sixtus IV, and Julius II. Parts of these were Room of the Biga
decorated with wonderful frescoes by the (a two-horse
chariot)
finest painters of the age – most notably
the Borgia Apartment, the Raphael Rooms
and the Sistine Chapel (see p380).
Gallery of
Tapestries
Gallery of Maps
The gallery is an
important record
of 16th-century
cartography and
history. This painting Etruscan
shows the Turkish siege Museum
of Malta in 1565.
The Raphael Loggia

contains Raphael
frescoes, but special
permission is needed Upper floor
to visit it.
Sistine
Chapel
The Cortile
del Belvedere
was designed by
Bramante in 1506.
Raphael Rooms The Borgia Apartment,

This detail from the Expulsion of frescoed by Pinturicchio in
Heliodorus from the Temple contains a a highly decorative style
portrait of Julius II. It is one of a series in the 1490s, also houses
of frescoes painted by Raphael for the a collection of modern
pope’s private apartments (see p380). religious art.
ROME  379
Pio-Christian Room of the

Museum Animals
Gregorian Roman mosaics,
Profane Museum like these ducks,
Città del Vaticano (entrance
decorate the walls
in Viale Vaticano).
and floor of this
Tel 06-69 88 31 12.
room of animal
Open 9am–6pm (last adm: 4pm)
sculptures.
Mon–Sat, 8:30am–2pm (last adm:
12:30pm) last Sun of month –
check website. Closed religious
and public hols. Special permit
Entrance
required for Vatican Library,
Round Lapidary Gallery, & Vatican
Room Archives. & free last Sun of
month. 7 special routes.
∑ vatican.va
Transport
q Ottaviano S. Pietro, Cipro
Pinacoteca
Musei Vaticani. @ 49 to entrance,
23, 81, 492, 990.
Greek Cross Room Gallery of the

Statues
Simonetti
Staircase
Egyptian
Museum
Braccio
Nuovo
The Room of the Busts
contains portraits of
emperors and other
notable Romans.
Chiaramonti Museum
Vatican
Library Lower floor
Cortile della Pigna Apollo del Belvedere

This huge bronze pine This Roman copy of a
cone, part of an ancient Greek statue of the sun
Roman fountain, once god Apollo perfectly
Lapidary stood in the courtyard embodies the ideals
Gallery of old St. Peter’s. Its of Classical beauty.
niche was designed
by Pirro Ligorio.
Gallery Guide Key to Floorplan
Visitors have to follow a one-way system. It is best to Egyptian and Assyrian art
concentrate on a single collection or to choose one Greek and Roman art
of the suggested itineraries. These are color-coded so Etruscan and Italic art
that you can follow them throughout the museums. Early Christian and medieval art
They vary in length from 90 minutes to five hours. If
15th- to 19th-century art
you are planning a long visit, make sure you allow
plenty of time for resting. Conserve your stamina for Modern religious art
the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms; they are Non-exhibition space
20–30 minutes’ walk from the entrance, without Open by special permit only
allowing for any viewing time along the way.
Exploring the side walls, painted between

1481 and 1483. Their subjects
Vatican’s Collections are parallel episodes in the lives
of Moses and Christ.
The Vatican’s greatest treasures are its Greek and Roman In 1508–12, at the request
antiquities, which have been on display since the 18th of Pope Julius II, Michelangelo
century. The 19th century saw the addition of exciting created what has become his
most famous work, the chapel
discoveries from Etruscan tombs and excavations in Egypt.
ceiling. The main panels chart
Then there are works by many of Italy’s greatest Renaissance the Creation of the World
artists housed in the Pinacoteca (art gallery) and decorating and Fall of Man. They are
the walls of chapels and papal apartments. surrounded by subjects from
the Old and New Testaments.
In 1534–41 Michelangelo
completed the chapel walls,
Christian Art painting The Last Judgment on
The Pio-Christian Museum the altar wall. It depicts the
has Early Christian art, such souls of the dead rising up to
as inscriptions and sculpture face the wrath of God and the
from catacombs and basilicas. damned being hurled down to
The first two rooms of the hell. The artist’s own tormented
Pinacoteca house medieval art, attitude to his faith is seen
including Giotto’s Stefaneschi in his self-portrait, painted on
Triptych (c.1300), which the skin held by the martyr,
decorated the main altar St. Bartholomew.
of the old St. Peter’s. Other
rooms in the Pinacoteca
The Laocoön, a Roman copy of a Greek contain Renaissance works. Raphael Rooms
original, excavated in Rome in 1506 15th-century highlights are a Pope Julius II chose Raphael
Pietà by Giovanni Bellini and (1483–1520) to redecorate four
Leonardo da Vinci’s unfinished rooms (stanze) of his apartments.
Ancient Art St. Jerome. Exceptional The frescoes in the Room of the
The Egyptian collection 16th-century pieces include an Segnatura (1508–11) include the
contains finds from 19th- and altarpiece by Titian, a Deposition famous School of Athens, which
20th-century excavations, as by Caravaggio, St. Helen by centers on a debate between
well as items brought to Rome Paolo Veronese, and a whole Plato and Aristotle. Raphael
in Imperial times. There are also room devoted to Raphael. depicted Leonardo da Vinci and
Roman imitations of Egyptian Michelangelo as philosophers.
art. Genuine Egyptian works The decoration of the Room of
include the tomb of Iri, guardian The Sistine Chapel Heliodorus (1512–4) incorporates
of the Pyramid of Cheops (22nd The Sistine Chapel takes its a famous portrait of Julius II,
century BC). name from Pope Sixtus IV; it was whereas the Room of the Fire in
Prize Greek and Roman art in built in 1473 at his request. The the Borgo (1514–7) was painted
the Pio-Clementine Museum walls were frescoed by some during the reign of Pope Leo X,
includes Roman copies of the of the finest artists of the age, Julius II’s successor. All the
4th-century BC Greek statues including Signorelli, Botticelli, frescoes here exalt the new
Apoxyomenos and the Apollo del Roselli, Ghirlandaio, and pope or his earlier namesakes.
Belvedere, and a splendid Laocoön Perugino (who is credited with The Hall of Constantine
from the 1st century AD. having overseen the project). (1517–25) was largely the
The Chiaramonti Museum There are 12 frescoes on the work of Raphael’s pupils.
is lined with ancient busts,
and its extension, the Braccio
Nuovo, has a 1st-century BC
statue of Emperor Augustus.
The Etruscan Museum houses
a superb collection, including
the bronze throne, bed, and
funeral cart, found in the
650 BC Regolini-Galassi
tomb in Cerveteri.
In the Vatican Library is
the Aldobrandini Wedding,
a beautiful Roman fresco
from the 1st century AD. Original Sin, from Michelangelo’s fresco on the Sistine Chapel ceiling
ROME  381
View across the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo, crowned by the figure of the angel that gave it its name
3 Castel also used it for sojourns with the 5 Santa Maria in

Sant’Angelo courtesan Imperia, who allegedly Trastevere
inspired one of the Three Graces Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Lungotevere Castello 50. Tel 06-681 91
painted by Raphael in the Tel 06-581 48 02. @ H, 23, 280,
11. @ 23, 34, 40, 280. Open Tue–Sun.
Loggia of Cupid and Psyche. 630, 780. Open daily. 7
Closed public hols. & 7 ∑ castel
santangelo.beniculturali.it The simple, harmonious
design of the Farnesina, with Trastevere, the area “across the
This massive cylindrical fortress a central block and projecting Tiber,” is one of the city’s most
takes its name from the vision wings, made it one of the first attractive quarters: a maze of
of the Archangel Michael, true villas of the Renaissance. narrow, cobbled alleys. Once
experienced by Pope Gregory Peruzzi decorated some of the home to the city’s poor, it has
the Great in the 6th century, as interiors himself, such as the witnessed a proliferation of
he led a procession across the Sala della Prospettiva upstairs, fashionable clubs, restaurants,
bridge, fervently praying for in which illusionistic frescoes and boutiques.
the end of the plague. create the impression of looking At the heart of Trastevere,
The castle began life in out over Rome through a overlooking an attractive
AD 139 as the Emperor marble colonnade. traffic-free square stands
Hadrian’s mausoleum. Since The painted vault of the main the Basilica of Santa Maria –
then it has been a bridgehead hall, the Sala di Galatea, shows probably the first official place
in the Emperor Aurelian’s city the position of the stars at the of Christian worship in Rome.
wall, a medieval citadel and time of Chigi’s birth. After his It was founded by Pope
prison, and a place of safety for death the banking business Callixtus I in the 3rd century,
popes during times of war or collapsed, and in 1577 the villa when Christianity was still a
political unrest. was sold to the Farnese family. minority cult. According to
Visitors are given a glimpse legend, it was built on the
into all aspects of the castle’s site where a fountain of oil
history – from its dank prison had sprung up miraculously
cells to the lavish apartments on the day that Christ was born.
of Renaissance popes. The basilica became the
focus of devotion to the
Madonna. Mary and Christ are
4 Villa Farnesina among the figures depicted
Via della Lungara 230. Tel 06-68 02 72 in the facade mosaics (c.12th
68. @ H, 280, 780. Open Mon–Sat & century). In the apse is a
2nd Sun in month. Closed public hols. stylized 12th-century mosaic
& ∑ villafarnesina.it Coronation of the Virgin, and
below it, a series of realistic
The fabulously wealthy Sienese mosaic scenes from the life
banker, Agostino Chigi, commis- of Mary by the 13th-century
sioned this villa in 1508 from his artist Pietro Cavallini. The
fellow Sienese, Baldassare oldest image of the Virgin is a
Peruzzi. Chigi’s main home was 7th-century icon, which depicts
across the Tiber – the villa was Trompe l’oeil view in the Sala della her as a Byzantine empress
for extravagant banquets. Chigi Prospettiva, Villa Farnesina flanked by a guard of angels.
6 Piazza Navona
@ 40, 46, 62, 64, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628.
Rome’s most spectactular

Baroque piazza follows the
shape of a 1st-century AD
stadium, built by Domitian
and used for athletic contests
(agones), chariot races, and
other sports. The foundations
of the surrounding buildings
come from the ruined stadium,
traces of which are visible below
the church of Sant’ Agnese in
Agone. The church, created by
the architects Girolamo and
Carlo Rainaldi and Francesco
Borromini, is dedicated to the The Pantheon, a place of worship since the 2nd century AD
virgin martyr, St. Agnes. When
she was stripped naked to force personifying the world’s fronted by a massive
her to renounce her faith, her greatest known rivers at the pedimented portico, screening
hair grew miraculously long, time – the Nile, the Plate, the what appears to be a cylinder
concealing her body. Ganges, and the Danube – fused to a shallow dome. Only
The piazza began to take on sitting on rocks below an from the inside can the true
its present appearance in the obelisk. Bernini also sculpted scale and beauty of the temple
17th century, when Pope the muscle-bound Moor in the be appreciated; a vast
Innocent X commissioned Fontana del Moro, though the hemispherical dome equal
a new church, palace, and present statue is a copy. in radius to the height of
fountain. The fountain, the the cylinder gives perfectly
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, harmonious proportions to the
is Bernini’s most magnificent, 7 Pantheon building. A circular opening in
with statues of four gods Piazza della Rotonda. Tel 06-68 30 02 30. the center of the coffered dome,
@ 116 & many others. Open daily. the oculus, lets in the only light.
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. 7 In the 7th century, Christians
claimed that they were being
The Pantheon, the Roman plagued by demons as they
“temple of all the gods,” is the passed by, and permission was
most extraordinary and best given to turn the Pantheon
preserved ancient building in into a church. Today it is lined
Rome. The first temple on the with tombs, ranging from the
site is thought to have restrained monument to
been a conventional Raphael to the huge marble
rectangular affair and porphyry sarcophagi
erected by Agrippa holding the bodies of Italian
between 27 and 25 BC. monarchs.
The present
structure was built,
8 Galleria Doria
and possibly designed,
by Emperor Hadrian in Pamphilj
AD 118. The temple is Via del Corso 305. Tel 06-678 09 39.
@ 64, 70, 81, 85, 117, 119, 492.
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun,
May 1, Aug 15, Dec 25. & 7
∑ doriapamphilj.it
Galleria Doria Pamphilj is a

vast stone edifice, whose
oldest parts date from 1435.
It was owned by the della
Rovere family and then by the
Aldobrandini family, before the
Pamphilj family took possession
of it in 1647. The Pamphilj
Personification of the Ganges, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, Piazza Navona added a new wing, a splendid
ROME  383
chapel, and a theater. The family added by Il Baciccia during the

art collection has over 400 17th century. The painting in
paintings dating from the 15th the nave depicts the Triumph
to the 18th century, including of the Name of Jesus and its
a portrait of Pope Innocent X message is clear: faithful,
by Velázquez and works by Catholic worshippers will be
Caravaggio, Titian, Guercino, joyfully uplifted to heaven
and Claude Lorrain. The opulent while Protestants and heretics
rooms of the private apartments are flung into the fires of hell.
retain many of their original The message is reiterated in
furnishings, including Brussels the Cappella di Sant’Ignazio,
and Gobelins tapestries, Murano a rich display of lapis lazuli,
chandeliers, and a gilded crib. serpentine, silver, and gold.
In the first half of the 18th The Baroque marble by Pierre
century, Gabriele Valvassori Legros, Triumph of Faith over
created the gallery above the Idolatry, shows a female Statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center of
courtyard and a new facade “Religion” trampling on the Piazza del Campidoglio
along the Corso, using the head of the serpent “Idolatry.”
highly decorative style of The Palazzo dei Conservatori
the period, known as the had been the seat of the city’s
barocchetto, which now
0Capitoline magistrates during the late
dominates the building. Museums Middle Ages. Its frescoed halls
Musei Capitolini, Piazza del are still used occasionally for
Campidoglio. Tel 06-06 08. @ 63, 64, political meetings and the
70, 75 & many others. Open Tue–Sun. ground floor houses the
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & 8 municipal registry office. The
7 ∑ museicapitolini.org current building was begun in
1536, built by Giacomo della
When Emperor Charles V Porta, who also carried out
announced he was to visit Michelangelo’s other designs
Rome in 1536, Pope Paul III for Piazza del Campidoglio.
asked Michelangelo to give A collection of Classical
the Capitol, formerly the citadel statues has been kept on the
of Ancient Rome, a facelift. Capitoline Hill since the
He redesigned the piazza, Renaissance. When the Palazzo
renovated the facades of Nuovo was completed, some
its palaces and built a new of the statues were transferred
staircase, the Cordonata. This there. In 1734, Pope Clement XII
Triumph of Faith over Heresy by Pierre gently rising ramp is now decreed that the building be
Legros in the Gesù crowned with the massive turned into the world’s first
Classical statues of Castor public museum.
9 Gesù and Pollux. The museum is still
Piazza del Gesù. Tel 06-69 70 01. The Capitoline Museums, devoted chiefly to
@ many routes. Open daily. the Palazzo Nuovo, and the sculpture. Most of its
Palazzo dei Conservatori finest works, such as
The Gesù, built between 1568 stand on opposite sides The Dying Galatian, are
and 1584, was Rome’s first Jesuit of the impressive Piazza Roman copies of Greek
church. The Jesuit order was del Campidoglio. masterpieces. There are
founded in Rome in 1537 by a Since 2000, they also two collections of
Basque soldier, Ignatius Loyola, have been connected busts, assembled in the
who became a Christian after via a subterranean 18th century, of the
he was wounded in battle. The passage. In the philosophers and poets
order was intellectual, austere, center of the piazza of ancient Greece and the
and heavily engaged in teaching is an equestrian rulers of ancient Rome.
and missionary activities. statue of Marcus Although much
The much-imitated design Aurelius (it is a of the museum
of the Gesù typifies Counter copy; the original is given over to
Reformation architecture: a bronze is in the Esquiline Venus, sculpture, it also
large nave with side pulpits Palazzo Nuovo). Capitoline Museums houses a collection
for preaching to crowds, and The facade of the Palazzo of porcelain, and its art
a main altar as the centerpiece Nuovo was designed by galleries contain various
for the mass. The illusionistic Michelangelo, but the work was works by Veronese, Titian,
decoration that covers the nave finished in 1655 by the brothers Caravaggio, Rubens, van
ceiling and the dome was Carlo and Girolamo Rainaldi. Dyck, and Tintoretto.
Ancient Rome Hill, before walking around.

From there you can make out
Traces of ancient Rome are visible all over the city, occasionally the Via Sacra, the route of
a whole building, often just a column from a temple or an arch religious and triumphal
of an aqueduct recycled in a later construction. The major processions.
archaeological sites are to be found along Via dei Fori The best preserved
monuments are two triumphal
Imperiali, which runs from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum. arches. The Arch of Titus
On the north side lie Trajan’s Markets and the forums of commemorates the crushing
various emperors; on the south side are the Roman Forum of the Jewish Revolt by Titus
and the Palatine Hill. Many museums hold extensive in AD 70. The later Arch of
collections of antiquities excavated in the city. Septimius Severus (AD 203)
records the emperor’s victories
libraries. Dominating the ruins over the Parthians.
today is Trajan’s Column. Most of the other ruins are
Spiralling up its 30 m (98 ft) temples or basilicas. The latter
high stem are minutely detailed were huge public buildings,
scenes showing episodes from which served as law courts
Trajan’s successful campaigns in and places of business. At the
Dacia (present-day Romania). western end of the forum are the
scant remains of the Basilica
Julia, named after Julius Caesar,
w Roman Forum and the earlier Basilica Aemilia.
Entrances: Via di San Gregonio and Via Close to the latter stands the
della Salara Vecchia 56. Tel 06-39 96 reconstructed Curia, where the
77 00. q Colosseo. @ 60, 75, 85, 87, Roman Senate once met.
117, 175, 186, 810, 850. Open daily. The eastern end of the Forum
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & is dominated by the shell of the
Romans fortifying a town in a detail from (includes entry to the Colosseum Basilica of Constantine and
Trajan’s Column and Palatine). ∑ coopculture.it Maxentius (4th century AD). The
adjacent Temple of Romulus is
q Trajan’s Markets The Forum was the center of now part of a church. Cross the
Via IV Novembre 94. Tel 06-06 08. political, commercial, and judicial Via Sacra from here to see the
@ 40, 60, 171. Open Tue–Sun. life in ancient Rome. As Rome’s partly reconstructed Temple of
Closed public hols. & population grew, however, this Vesta and the House of the
∑ mercatiditraiano.it ancient Forum became too Vestal Virgins.
small, so Julius Caesar built a Further east past the Arch of
Originally considered among new one (46 BC). This move Titus are the extensive ruins of
the wonders of the Classical was emulated by successive the Temple of Venus and Rome,
world, Trajan’s Markets now emperors. The newer forums are built in AD 121 by Hadrian.
show only a hint of their known as the “Imperial Fora.” Attached to the ruined temple is
former splendor. The ruins of the Roman Forum the church of Santa Francesca
Emperor Trajan and his date from many eras and the Romana – patron saint of
architect, Apollodorus of layout is confusing. It is a good motorists. On March 9, drivers
Damascus, built this visionary idea to view them from the bring their cars here to have
complex of 150 shops and vantage point of the Capitoline them blessed.
offices in the early 2nd century
AD. The Markets sold everything
from Middle Eastern silks and
spices to fresh fish, fruit, and
flowers. It was also the place
where the corn dole was
administered; a free ration
for Roman men.
Shops opened early and
closed about noon. Almost
all the shopping was done by
men and the traders were
almost exclusively male.
The Forum of Trajan (AD
107–13) was built in front of the
market complex. It was a vast
colonnaded open space with a
huge basilica, and included two Central garden of the House of the Vestal Virgins, Roman Forum
ROME  385
r Colosseum Ancient Roman Sites

Piazza del Colosseo. Tel 06-3996 77 00. and Museums
q Colosseo. @ 75, 81, 85, 87, 117,
175, 673, 810. v 3. Open daily. Closed Practical Information
Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & (includes Baths of Caracalla:
entry to the Palatine and Forum). Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52.
8 7 limited. ∑ coopculture.it Tel 06-39 96 77 00. Open Tue–
Sun & Mon am. & 8
Rome’s great amphitheater, Extensive ruins of bath complex
commissioned by the Emperor built in AD 217.
Vespasian in AD 72, was built Theatre of Marcellus:
on the marshy site of a lake in Via del Teatro di Marcello.
the grounds of Nero’s palace. Open daily. An Imperial theater,
which later housed a number
It is likely that the arena took
of medieval shops.
its name, not from its own size,
Museo Nazionale Romano:
but from that of an enormous Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa
statue, the Colossus of Nero, Peretti 1. Tel 06-39 36 77 00.
Ruins of oval fountain in the Domus Flavia that stood nearby. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
on the Palatine The Colosseum was the site of Sculpture, mosaics, wall-paintings,
deadly gladiatorial combats and and a Roman mummy. Another
e Palatine wild animal fights, staged free branch of the museum is at the
Entrances: Via di San Gregorio and
of charge by the emperor and Baths of Diocletian across the road.
near the Arch of Titus on Via Sacra. wealthy citizens. It was built to Palazzo Altemps:
Tel 06-39 96 77 00. q Colosseo. @ a very practical design, its 80 Piazza Sant’Apollinare 44.
60, 75, 81, 160, 175 & many others. v entrances allowing easy access Tel 06-39 36 77 00.
3. Open daily. Closed public hols. & for 55,000 spectators. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
(includes entry to the Colosseum and Excavations in the 19th century Fine collection of Classical
Forum). 8 ∑ coopculture.it exposed a network of rooms statuary set in a beautiful
under the arena, from which Renaissance palazzo.
Temples of the Forum Boarium:
The Palatine, the hill where the animals could be released.
Piazza della Bocca della Verità.
Roman aristocracy lived and The four tiers of the outside
Two miraculously preserved
emperors built their palaces, is walls were built in differing Republican-era temples.
the most pleasant and relaxing styles. The lower three are
of the city’s ancient sites. arched; the bottom with Doric Transport
Shaded by pines and carpeted columns, the next with Ionic, Baths of Caracalla: q Circo
with wild flowers in the spring, and the third with Corinthian. Massimo. @ 160, 628. v 3.
it is dominated by the imposing The top level supported a huge Theatre of Marcellus @ 30, 44,
63, 81, 95, 130, 160, 170, 271, 628,
ruins of the Domus Augustana awning, used to shade
630, 715, 716, 780, 781.
and the Domus Flavia, two spectators from the sun.
Museo Nazionale Romano:
parts of Domitian’s huge Beside the Colosseum stands q Repubblica, Termini.
palace (1st century AD). the Arch of Constantine, @ 36, 38, 64, 86, 110, 170, 175,
Other remains here include commemorating Constantine’s H, and many others to Piazza
the House of Augustus and victory in AD 312 over his dei Cinquecento.
the House of Livia, where the co-emperor Maxentius. Most Palazzo Altemps: @ 70, 81, 115,
Emperor Augustus lived with his of the medallions, reliefs, and 116, 280, 492, 628.
wife Livia; and the Cryptoporticus, statues were scavenged from Temples of the Forum Boarium:
a long underground gallery earlier monuments. Inside the @ 44, 81, 95, 160, 170, 280, 628,
built by Nero. arch are reliefs showing one 715, 716.
The Huts of Romulus, not far of Trajan’s victories.
from the House of Augustus, are
Iron Age huts (10th century BC),
which provide archaeological
support for the area’s legendary
links with the founding of Rome.
According to legend, Romulus
and Remus grew up on this
hill in the 8th century BC.
After admiring the ancient
sights, visit the Farnese
Gardens, created in the mid-
16th century by Cardinal
Alessandro Farnese, with tree-
lined avenues, rose gardens,
and glorious views. The Colosseum, a majestic sight despite centuries of damage and neglect
t Santa Maria
Maggiore
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Tel 06-69 88 68 00. q Termini,
Cavour. @ 16, 70, 71, 714. v 14.
Open daily. 8
Of all the great Roman basilicas,

Santa Maria has the most
successful blend of different
architectural styles. Its colonnaded
triple nave is part of the original
5th-century building; the marble
floor and Romanesque bell tower,
with its blue ceramic roundels, are
medieval; the Renaissance saw a
new coffered ceiling; and the
Baroque gave the church twin
domes and its imposing front
and rear facades.
Santa Maria is most famous for
its mosaics. Those in the nave
and on the triumphal arch date
from the 5th century. Medieval
mosaics include a 13th-century
enthroned Christ in the loggia
and Jacopo Torriti’s Coronation
of the Virgin (1295) in the apse.
The gilded ceiling was a gift The Spanish Steps, with the church of Trinità dei Monti above
of Alexander VI, the Borgia
pope. The gold used is said largest and most famous u Spanish Steps
to be the first brought back fountain was completed only Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti, Piazza
from America by Columbus. in 1762. The central figure is di Spagna. q Spagna. @ 116, 117,
Neptune, flanked by two Tritons. 119, 590.
One Triton struggles to master a
y Trevi Fountain very unruly “sea-horse,” the other The steps, which link the church
Piazza di Trevi. @ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 71, leads a far more docile animal. of Trinità dei Monti with Piazza di
80, 95, 116, 119 & many others. These symbolize the two Spagna below, were completed
contrasting moods of the sea. in 1726. They combine straight
Most visitors gathering around The site was originally the sections, curves, and terraces
the coin-filled fountain assume terminal of the Aqua Virgo to create one of the city’s
that it has always been there, aqueduct (19 BC). A relief shows most dramatic and distinctive
but by the standards of the the legendary virgin, after landmarks. To the right as you
Eternal City, the Trevi is a fairly whom the aqueduct was look at the steps from the square
recent creation. Nicola Salvi’s named, pointing to the spring is the Keats-Shelley Memorial
theatrical design for Rome’s from which the water flows. House, a small museum in the
house where the poet John Keats
died of consumption in 1821.
In the 19th century the
steps were a meeting place
for artists’ models; today they
are filled with people sitting,
writing postcards, taking
photos, flirting, busking, or
just watching the passers-by.
Eating here is not allowed.
The steps overlook Via
Condotti and the surrounding
streets. In the 18th century this
area was full of hotels for
foreigners doing the Grand Tour.
It now contains the smartest
Trevi Fountain, the most famous of Rome’s Baroque landmarks shops in Rome.
ROME  387
i Santa Maria del notorious work is a sculpture by

Popolo Canova of Pauline Borghese as
Piazza del Popolo 12. Tel 06-361 08 36. Venus Victrix (1805), in which the
q Flaminio. @ 95, 117, 119, 120, semi-naked Pauline reclines on
150, 491. Open daily. a chaise longue.
The Galleria Borghese, on the
Santa Maria del Popolo was upper floor, houses some fine
commissioned by Sixtus IV in Renaissance and Baroque
1472. After his death in 1484, the paintings. These include
pope’s family chapel, the Della Raphael’s Deposition, along with
Rovere Chapel (first on the right), works by Pinturicchio, Correggio,
was frescoed by Pinturicchio. Caravaggio, Rubens, and Titian.
In 1503, Sixtus IV’s nephew Within the Villa Borghese park
Giuliano became Pope Julius II are other museums and
and had Bramante build a new galleries, foreign academies, a
apse. Pinturicchio was called in zoo, schools of archaeology, an
again to paint its vaults with artificial lake, and an array of
Sibyls and Apostles framed by Detail from Bernini’s Rape of Proserpine in fountains and follies.
freakish beasts. the Museo Borghese
In 1513, Raphael created the
Chigi Chapel (second on the nephew of Pope Paul V. The park p Villa Giulia
left) – a Renaissance fusion of was the first of its kind in Rome. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9. Tel 06-322 65
the sacred and profane – for It was laid out with 400 pine 71. @ 52, 88, 95, 490, 495 926,. v 3,
the banker Agostino Chigi. trees, sculpture by Bernini, 19. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May
Bernini later added the statues and dramatic water features. 1, Dec 25. & 8 audio. 7
of Daniel and Habakkuk. In The villa was used for
the Cerasi Chapel, left of the entertaining and displaying Villa Giulia was built as a
altar, are two Caravaggios: the cardinal’s impressive country retreat for Pope Julius
The Crucifixion of St Peter and collection of paintings and III. Today, it houses a world-
The Conversion of St Paul. sculpture. Unfortunately, famous collection of Etruscan
between 1801 and 1809, Prince and other pre-Roman remains.
Camillo Borghese, husband to There are fascinating pieces
Napoleon’s sister Pauline, sold of jewelry, bronzes, mirrors,
many of these to his brother- and a marvelous terracotta
in-law, and swapped 200 of sarcophagus of a husband
Scipione’s Classical statues for and wife from Cerveteri.
an estate in Piedmont. The The delightful villa was the
statues are still in the Louvre. work of architects Vasari and
However, some Classical treasures Vignola, and the sculptor
remain, including fragments Ammannati. Michelangelo
of a 3rd-century AD mosaic of also contributed. At the center
gladiators fighting wild animals. of the garden is a nympheum –
The highlights of the a sunken courtyard decorated
remaining collection are the with mosaics, statues, and
sculptures by the young Bernini. fountains, built in imitation
Apollo and Daphne (1624), of ancient Roman models.
shows the nymph Daphne
being transformed into a laurel
The Chigi Chapel in Santa Maria del Popolo, tree to escape being abducted
designed by Raphael by Apollo. Other striking works
are The Rape of Proserpine and a
o Museo e Galleria David, whose face is said to be a
self-portrait of Bernini. The most
Borghese
Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5. Tel
06-328 10 (reservations). @ 52, 53,
910. v 3, 19. Open Tue–Sun
(reservations obligatory). Closed Jan
1, May 1, Dec 25. & ∑ galleria
borghese.beniculturali.it
The Villa Borghese and its park

were designed in 1605 for The cheerful figures of an Etruscan married couple on their
Cardinal Scipione Borghese, sarcophagus, Villa Giulia
Assisi: Basilica di San Francesco

The burial place of St. Francis, this basilica was begun in 1228,
two years after the saint’s death. Over the next century, its
Upper and Lower Churches were decorated by the foremost
artists of their day, among them Cimabue, Simone Martini,
Pietro Lorenzetti, and Giotto, whose frescoes of the Life of St.
Francis are some of the most renowned in Italy. Many of the
basilica’s frescoes were badly damaged in the
earthquake that hit Assisi in 1997, but all have
been restored. The basilica, which dominates
Assisi, is one of the great Christian shrines . Cappella di San Martino
and receives vast numbers of pilgrims The frescoes in this chapel
throughout the year. on the life of St. Martin (1315)
are by the Sienese painter
Simone Martini. This panel
shows the death of the Saint.
Martini was also responsible
for the fine stained glass
in the chapel.
. Frescoes by Lorenzetti
The bold composition of
Pietro Lorenzetti’s fresco,
entitled The Deposition
(1323), is based around
the truncated Cross,
focusing attention on the
twisted figure of Christ.
. Frescoes by Giotto
The Ecstasy of St. Francis
is one of 28 panels that
make up Giotto’s cycle on
the Life of St. Francis (c.1290–95).
KEY
1 A Renaissance portico shelters 5 St. Francis, Cimabue’s simple 8 The Upper Church
the original Gothic portal of the painting (c.1280), captures the has soaring Gothic vaulting
Lower Church. humility of the revered saint, painted with a starry sky,
who stood for poverty, chastity, symbolizing the heavenly
2 The crypt contains the tomb and obedience. glory of St. Francis. Its style
of St. Francis.
6 The choir (1501) features a influenced that of many
3 Steps to the Treasury 13th-century stone papal throne. later Franciscan churches.
4 The vaulting of the Lower 7 Faded paintings by Roman 9 The facade and its rose
Church is covered almost entirely artists line the walls above Giotto’s window are early examples
in frescoes. Life of St. Francis. of Italian Gothic.

I TA LY  389
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Vannucci (Perugino). It is

dominated by Umbria’s finest
Practical Information building, the monumental
Piazza San Francesco, Assisi. Palazzo dei Priori. Among its
Tel 075-819 001. richly decorated rooms is the
∑ sanfrancescoassisi.org Sala dei Notari or Lawyers’ Hall
Open daily. 8 7 (c.1295), vividly frescoed with
Transport scenes from the Old Testament.
£@ Superlative frescoes (1498–1500)
by Perugino cover the walls of
the Collegio del Cambio,
Perugia’s medieval money
exchange. The Galleria
Nazionale dell’Umbria on
Entrance to the third floor displays a fine
Upper Church The ancient Tempio di Minerva in the Piazza collection of paintings.
del Comune, Assisi The Cappella del Santo Anello
in Perugia’s 15th- century
2 Assisi Duomo houses the Virgin’s
* 25,000. £ @ n Piazza del
agate “wedding ring,” said to
Comune 22 (075-813 86 80). ( Sat.
change color according to the
∑ visit-assisi.it character of its wearer. The
Renaissance Madonna delle
This beautiful medieval town, Grazie by Gian Nicola di Paolo
with its geranium-hung streets, hangs in the nave.
lovely views, and fountain- On Piazza San Francesco, the
splashed piazzas, is heir to the Oratorio di San Bernardino
legacy of St. Francis (c.1181– (1457–61), has a colorful façade
1226), who is buried in the by Agostino di Duccio. Beyond
Basilica di San Francesco. the old city walls, the 10th-
Piazza del Comune, Assisi’s century San Pietro is Perugia’s
main square, is dominated by most extravagantly decorated
the columns of the Tempio di church. San Domenico (1305–
Minerva, a Roman temple-front 1632), on Piazza Giordano
from the Augustan age. The Bruno, is Umbria’s largest
Palazzo Comunale, opposite, church. It houses the tomb
houses an art gallery, the of Pope Benedict XI (c.1304)
Pinacoteca Comunale. and the Museo Archeologico
The town has many other Nazionale dell’Umbria, a
interesting churches. On Corso collection of prehistoric,
Mazzini is the Basilica di Santa Etruscan, and Roman artifacts.
Chiara. Here, St. Clare – Francis’s
companion and the founder of E Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria
the Poor Clares (an order of Corso Vannucci 19. Tel 075-572 10 09.
nuns) – is buried. The Duomo Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
has a superb Romanesque Dec 25. & 7
facade. San Pietro is a simple,
well-restored Romanesque
church, while the nearby
Oratorio dei Pellegrini, a
15th-century pilgrims’ hospice,
contains well-preserved
frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo.
3 Perugia
* 160,000. £ @ n Piazza
Matteotti 19, Loggia dei Lanari
(075-572 64 58). ( Tue, Thu, Sat.
∑ turismo.comune.perugia.it
The rose window is framed Perugia’s old center hinges

by the carved symbols of the around Corso Vannucci, named Palazzo dei Priori, Perugia’s imposing
four Evangelists. after the local painter Pietro medieval town hall
4 Street by Street: Siena

Siena’s principal sights cluster in the maze of narrow
streets and alleys around the fan-shaped Piazza del
Campo. One of Europe’s greatest medieval squares, the
piazza sits at the heart of the city’s 17 contrade, the
historic districts whose ancient rivalries are still acted
out in the twice-yearly Palio (see p392). Loyalty to the
contrada of one’s birth is fierce, and as you wander
the streets you will see the parishes’ animal symbols
repeated on flags, plaques, and carvings.
The Duomo dominating Siena’s skyline
Bus station
Train station
Via della Galluzza VI

AD
leads to the house of .G
IN
AL
PI PEN
St. Catherine, Siena’s LU
DI
AZ DE
patron saint (see p392). Z ZA
ZA NZ
The Baptistry has
A
fine frescoes and
O
VI
ET
A
a font with reliefs DI CC
FO
by Donatello, NT
DIA
Jacopo della EB
RA
Quercia, and ND
DI
Ghiberti. A
VIA
. Duomo
Striped black and white
marble pillars, surmounted
by a carved frieze of the
VIA DEI PELLEGRINI
popes, support the Duomo’s SA
NCIO PIAZZA SAN
vaulted ceiling, painted blue FRA G I O VA N N I
with gold stars to resemble VIA
the night sky (see p392).
I
AR
Each tier of the Duomo’s bell

US
tower has one more window

L F
than the floor below.

E
O
A D
OGGI
C I T TA
VI
Cafés and shops fill

L P
the streets around

DE
Piazza del Duomo. PIAZZA DEL

D I
DUOMO
A
VI
I A
V
V
IA
D
E
L
C
A
P
IT
A
N
O
Key
Suggested route
Museo dell’Opera
del Duomo
The museum (see p392) houses weathered sculptures 0 meters 300
from the cathedral, including this battered she-wolf 0 yards 300
suckling Romulus and Remus.

I TA LY  391
Loggia della Mercanzia P Palazzo Pubblico

This graceful arcade (1417)
Piazza del Campo 1. Tel 0577-29 21 11.
was used by Siena’s
Museo Civico & Torre del Mangia
medieval merchants
Tel 0577-22 62 30. Open daily.
and money dealers.
Closed Dec 25. &
Although the Palazzo Pubblico
(1297–1342) continues in its
ancient role as Siena’s town hall,
the Museo Civico is also housed
here. Many of the rooms, some
decorated with paintings of the
Sienese School, are open to the
Palazzo Piccolomini, public. They include the main
built in 1460, now holds council chamber, or Sala del
VIA BANCHI DI SOPRA
the Sienese state Mappamondo, named after a

archives. Many of the map of the world painted here
Tourist
original painted wooden by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the
information
bindings are on display. early 14th century. One wall is
covered by Simone Martini’s
fresco Maestà (1315), which
depicts the Virgin in Majesty.
The Sala della Pace houses the
NCHI D
VIA BA I SO famous Allegory of Good and Bad
T TO Government, a pair of frescoes
INA
VIA
DI P
AN
by Lorenzetti finished in 1338.
ALD
TA N In the palace courtyard is the

E TO
magnificent Torre del Mangia
RIN
bell tower, which offers superb

VIA
views of the city.

VIA D
EL PO P Piazza del Campo
RRIO
PIAZZA NE Italy’s loveliest piazza occupies
DEL the site of the old Roman forum,
and for much of Siena’s early
CAMPO history was the city’s principal
marketplace. The Council of
Nine, Siena’s ruling body, gave
the order for work to start on
VI
A
DI
the piazza in 1293. The red-brick
SA paving was finished in 1349. It is
LI
CO divided into nine sections,
DEL TT
MERCATO O Fonte Gaia representing not only the
VIA
The reliefs on the fountain authority of the council, but

DU
are 19th-century copies of also the protective folds of the

PR
the 15th-century originals Madonna’s cloak. The piazza has

E
by Jacopo della Quercia. been the focus of city life ever

since, a setting for executions,
bullfights, and the drama of the
Palio. Cafés, restaurants, and fine
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST medieval palazzi now line the
square, which is dominated by
Practical Information the Palazzo Pubblico and the
* 60,000. Torre del Mangia.
n Piazza del Campo 56
(0577-28 05 51). ( Wed.
_ Palio (Jul 2, Aug 16); Estate
Musicale Chigiana – classical
music concerts (Jul–Sep).
∑ terresiena.it
. Palazzo Pubblico
The graceful Gothic town hall was Transport
completed in 1342. At 102 m (330 £ Piazzale Rosselli. @ Piazza
ft), the bell tower, the Torre del San Domenico.
Mangia, is the second highest Piazza del Campo, viewed from the top of
medieval tower ever built in Italy. the Torre del Mangia
Exploring Siena
Once a capital to rival Florence, Siena is still unspoiled and
endowed with the grandeur of the age in which it was at its
peak (1260–1348). The magnificent Duomo is one of Italy’s
greatest cathedrals. The best place to begin an exploration
of the historic city center is Piazza del Campo and the
surrounding maze of medieval streets. Siena’s hilly position
means that walks through the city are rewarded with
countless sudden views of the surrounding countryside.
exterior of the Duomo, Massacre of the Innocents, a detail from the

including a tondo Duomo’s marble floor
(circular relief ) of a
Madonna and Child, of a chapel dedicated to her
probably by Donatello. in this huge, barn-like Gothic
The highlight is Duccio’s church. Built in 1460, the chapel
huge altarpiece, Maestà is dominated by Sodoma’s
(1308–11), which depicts frescoes (1526), which show
the Madonna and Child Catherine in states of religious
on one side, and Scenes fervor. The church has the
from the Life of Christ on only portrait of St. Catherine
the other. considered authentic, painted
by her friend Andrea Vanni.
E Pinacoteca St. Catherine’s house, the
Nazionale Casa di Santa Caterina, is also
Via San Pietro 29. Tel 0577-28 a popular shrine for visitors
61 43. Open daily. Closed to Siena.
Sun & Mon pm, Jan 1, May 1,
Richly decorated facade of Siena’s Duomo Dec 25. & 7 + Fortezza Medicea
Housed in the Palazzo Viale Maccari. Fortezza: Open Mon–
R Duomo Buonsignori, this gallery Sat. Enoteca Italiana: Piazza Libertà 1.
Piazza del Duomo. Tel 0577-28 30 48. contains an unsurpassed Tel 0577-22 88 11. Open noon–1am
Open daily. Closed Sun am. Museo collection of paintings by Mon–Sat. &
dell’Opera del Duomo: Tel 0577-28 30 artists of the Sienese School. This huge red-brick fortress
48. Open Mar–May: 9:30am–7pm Highlights include Duccio’s was built by Cosimo I in 1560,
daily; Jun–Aug: 9:30am–8pm daily; Madonna dei Francescani (1285) following Siena’s defeat by
Sep & Oct: 9:30am–7pm daily; Nov– and Simone Martini’s The Blessed Florence in the 1554–5 war.
Feb: 10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
Agostino Novello and Four of his After an 18-month siege, during
Dec 25. &
Miracles (c.1330). which more than 8,000 Sienese
Siena’s cathedral (1136–1382) is died, the town’s banking and
a spectacular example of Pisan- R San Domenico wool industries were suppressed
influenced Romanesque- Piazza San Domenico. Open daily. by the Florentines.
Gothic architecture. Had the The preserved head of the city’s The fortress now houses
14th-century plan to create a patroness, St. Catherine of Siena the Enoteca Italiana, where
new nave come to fruition, it (1347–80), can be seen in a you can taste and buy
would have become the largest gilded tabernacle on the altar Italian wines.
church in Christendom, but the
idea was abandoned when the
Black Death of 1348 virtually The Palio
halved the city’s population. The Palio is Tuscany’s most celebrated festival
Among the Duomo’s treasures and it occurs in the Campo each year on July 2
are sculptural masterpieces by and August 16. This bareback horse race was first
Nicola Pisano, Donatello, and recorded in 1283, but it may have had its origins
Michelangelo, a fine inlaid in Roman military training. The jockeys represent
marble floor, and a magnificent Siena’s 17 contrade (districts) and the horses are
fresco cycle by Pinturicchio. chosen by the drawing of lots. Preceded by
In the side aisle of the days of colorful pageantry and heavy
unfinished nave, which has betting, the races themselves last
been roofed over, is the Museo only 90 seconds each, the
winner being rewarded with Drummer taking part
dell’Opera del Duomo. The in the Palio’s noisy
a silk palio (banner).
museum is devoted mainly to pre-race pageant
sculpture removed from the
I TA LY  393
Florentine art from the 12th

to the 17th centuries. Major
15th-century works include
Masaccio’s St. Paul, Gentile da
Fabriano’s radiant Madonna of
Humility, and Donatello’s
reliquary bust of San Rossore.
E Museo Nazionale
di San Matteo
Piazza San Matteo 1. Tel 050-54 18 65.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. &
The skyline of San Gimignano, bristling with medieval towers
architecture, its four-tiered facade 8 Lucca

5 San Gimignano an intricate medley of creamy * 85,000. £ @ n Piazzale Verdi
Siena. * 7,000. @ n Piazza del colonnades and blind arcades. (0583-58 31 50). ( Wed, Sat, 3rd Sun
Duomo 1 (0577-94 00 08). ( Thu. Inside, highlights include a of month (antiques). ∑ luccaitinera.it
_ San Gimignano (Jan 31).
pulpit (1302–11) by Giovanni
∑ sangimignano.com
Pisano and a mosaic of Christ in The city of Lucca is still enclosed
Majesty by Cimabue (1302). within its 17th-century walls,
The thirteen towers that Begun in 1173 on sandy silt and visitors can stroll along the
dominate San Gimignano’s subsoil, the famous Leaning ramparts, which were converted
skyline were built by rival noble Tower (Torre Pendente) was into a public park in the early
families in the 12th and 13th completed in 1350. The tower 19th century. Within the walls,
centuries, when the town’s has attracted many visitors over narrow lanes wind among dark
position on the main pilgrim the centuries, including Galileo, medieval buildings, opening
route to Rome brought it great who came here to conduct suddenly to reveal stunning
prosperity. The plague of 1348, experiments on falling objects. churches and piazzas, including
and later the diversion of the Recent engineering work has the vast Piazza del Anfiteatro,
pilgrim route, led to its reduced the tower’s tilt to which traces the outline of the
economic decline and its approximately 4.12 m (13.5 ft). old Roman amphitheater. The
miraculous preservation. The graceful Baptistry was finest of the churches are all
Full of good restaurants and begun in 1152 and finished a Romanesque: San Martino,
shops, the town is also home century later by Nicola and the 11th-century cathedral,
to many fine works of art. The Giovanni Pisano. San Michele in Foro, built on
Museo Civico holds works by The Museo Nazionale di the sight of the old Roman
Pinturicchio, Benozzo Gozzoli, San Matteo holds Pisan and forum, and San Frediano.
and Filippino Lippi, while the
church of Sant’Agostino has a
Baroque interior by Vanvitelli
(c.1740) and a fresco cycle by
Benozzo Gozzoli (1465).
6 Florence
See pp394–407.
7 Pisa
* 90,000. k Galileo Galilei, 5 km
(3 miles) S. £ @ n Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele 16 (050-42 291). ( Wed &
Sat. ∑ pisaunicaterra.it
In the Middle Ages, Pisa’s navy

dominated the western
Mediterranean. Trade with Spain
and North Africa brought vast
wealth, reflected in the city’s
splendid buildings. The Duomo,
begun in 1064, is a magnificent
example of Pisan-Romanesque The Baptistry in front of Pisa’s Duomo, with the Leaning Tower behind
6 Florence
Florence is a monument to the Renaissance, the artistic
and cultural reawakening of the 15th century. The
buildings of Brunelleschi and the paintings and sculptures
of artists such as Botticelli and Michelangelo turned the
city into one of the world’s greatest artistic capitals.
During this time Florence was at the cultural and VI
A
intellectual heart of Europe, its cosmopolitan atmosphere
and wealthy patrons, such as the Medici, providing the
VIA
impetus for a period of unparalleled artistic growth. The Stazione
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legacy of the Renaissance draws many visitors to the city Centrale di
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and monuments the major attractions. Florence’s best VI
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FLORENCE  395
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Getting Around
Buses in Florence are bright orange; most can be picked
up at Santa Maria Novella station. Lines run until at least
9:30pm, the most popular until midnight or 1am.
Information about routes can be found on www.ataf.net.
Official taxis are white, and are generally costly. What
0 meters 300
with one-way systems, erratic drivers, and limited traffic
zones – where only authorized vehicles are permitted to
0 yards 300
go – driving is not recommended. Walking is easily the
most enjoyable way to get around and explore the city.
For key to symbols see back flap

1 Duomo
See pp398–9.
2 San Lorenzo
Piazza di San Lorenzo. @ many routes.
Basilica: Tel 055-21 40 42. Open daily.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), religious hols.
& Biblioteca: Tel 055-293 79 11.
Open daily during special exhibitions.
Closed Sun (Nov–Feb), public hols.
Cappelle Medicee: Piazza di Madonna
degli Aldobrandini 6. Tel 055-29 48 83.
Open daily (to 4:50pm). Closed 2nd
& 4th Sun of month, 1st, 3rd, & 5th
Mon of month, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.
&7
San Lorenzo was the parish Facade of Santa Maria Novella, redesigned by Alberti in 1456–70
church of the Medici family, who
lavished their wealth on its with the design of the New Chapel, Lippi’s dramatic frescoes
adornment. Rebuilt in Renais- Sacristy by Michelangelo. The show St. John raising Drusiana
sance Classical style in 1419, the latter’s funerary figures (1520– from the dead and St. Philip
outer facade was never finished. 34) around its walls are among slaying a dragon. Boccaccio set
The inner facade of the his greatest works. The Chapel of the start of The Decameron in
Basilica was designed by the Princes (1604) is opulently this chapel. The Strozzi Tomb
Michelangelo. Cosimo il Vecchio, decorated with inlaid semi- (1493) is by Florentine sculptor
founder of the Medici dynasty, is precious stones and bright Benedetto da Maiano.
buried under a stone slab before frescoes. Six Grand Dukes of the The 14th-century frescoes
the High Altar. The bronze pulpits Medici family are buried here. in the Strozzi Chapel are by
in the nave are Donatello’s last two brothers (Nardo di Cione
works. Opposite is Bronzino’s and Andrea Orcagna) and
3 Santa Maria
vast fresco of the human form were inspired by Dante’s
in various poses (1659). Novella Divine Comedy.
The Biblioteca Mediceo- Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. @ many Beside the church is a walled
Laurenzia, which housed the routes. 7 Church: Tel 055-21 92 57. cemetery with grave niches. The
family’s manuscripts, has an Open daily (pm only Fri–Sun & religious cloisters on the other side of the
elaborate sandstone staircase, hols). & Museum: Tel 055-28 21 87. church form a museum. The
desks, and ceilings designed Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Thu, Green Cloister’s name derives
by Michelangelo in 1524. 11am–5:30pm Fri, 9am–5pm Sat, from the green tinge to Uccello’s
The Cappelle Medicee noon–5pm Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter Noah and the Flood frescoes,
incorporate three sacristies which Sun, May 1. & 7 damaged by the 1966 floods.
epitomize different periods The adjoining Spanish Chapel
of art. Donatello’s The Gothic church of Santa contains frescoes on the theme
decoration of the Maria Novella, built by the of salvation and damnation.
Old Sacristy Dominicans between 1279 and
contrasts 1357, contains some of the
4 Galleria
most important works of
art in Florence. The dell’Accademia
interior displays a number Via Ricasoli 60. @ many routes.
of superb frescoes, Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open
including Masaccio’s Tue–Sun. Closed Mon & public hols.
Trinity (c.1428), which is & 7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
renowned as a master-
piece of perspective and The Academy of Fine Arts in
portraiture. The close Florence, founded in 1563,
spacing of the nave was the first school in Europe
piers at the east end set up to teach drawing,
accentuates the illusion painting, and sculpture.
of length. The Tornabuoni Since 1873, many of Michel-
Chapel contains Ghirlan- angelo’s most important works
daio’s fresco cycle, The Life have been in the Accademia.
of John the Baptist (1485). Perhaps the most famous of
Detail from Donatello pulpit, San Lorenzo In the Filippo Strozzi all dominates the collection:
FLORENCE  397
Michelangelo’s David (1504).

This colossal nude depicts the
biblical hero who killed the
giant Goliath; it established
Michelangelo, then aged 29,
as the foremost sculptor of
his time. The statue was
moved here from the Palazzo
Vecchio in 1873 to protect it
from the elements.
Michelangelo’s other
masterpieces include a statue
of St. Matthew finished in 1508,
and the Quattro Prigioni (four
prisons), sculpted between 1521
and 1523. The muscular figures
struggling to free themselves Fra Angelico’s Annunciation, in the monastery of San Marco
from the stone are among the
most dramatic of his works. 5 San Marco the monastery is now a museum.
The gallery contains an It contains a remarkable series
important collection of paintings Piazza di San Marco. @ many routes. of devotional frescoes by Fra
7 partial. Church: Open daily.
by 15th- and 16th-century Angelico. The former Pilgrims’
Museum: Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings).
Florentine artists, and many Hospice houses The Deposition
Open Mon–Fri: am only, Sat: am & pm.
major works including the (1435–40), a poignant scene of
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25, 2nd &
Madonna del Mare attributed 4th Mon and 1st, 3rd, & 5th Sun each the dead Christ; his Crucifixion
to Botticelli (1445–1510), month. & 7 (1441–2) can be seen in the
Pacino di Bonaguida’s Tree of Chapter House.
Life (1310), and Venus and Cupid The church of San Marco, and the There are over 40 cells
by Jacopo Pontormo (1494– monastery built around it, date adorned with frescoes by Fra
1556). Also on display is an from the 13th century. Following Angelico. The Annunciation
elaborately painted wooden the transfer of the site to the (c.1445) demonstrates his
chest, the Cassone Adimari Dominicans of Fiesole by Pope mastery of perspective. Relics
(c.1440) by Lo Scheggia. It was Eugene IV in 1436, Cosimo il of the fiery orator Savonarola
originally used as part of a bride’s Vecchio paid a considerable sum (1452–98), dragged from here
trousseau, and is covered with for its reconstruction, overseen by and executed in Piazza della
details of Florentine daily life, his favorite architect, Michelozzo. Signoria, are also on display.
clothing, and architecture. The single-naved church holds The monastery houses
The Salone della Toscana valuable works of art, and the Europe’s first public library,
(Tuscany Room) exhibits more funerary chapel of St. Anthony is designed by Michelozzo in
modest 19th-century sculpture considered Giambologna’s main a light and airy colonnaded
and paintings by members of work of architecture. To the right hall. Valuable manuscripts
the Accademia. of the church, the oldest part of and bibles are held here.
A scene from Lo Scheggia’s Cassone Adimari in the Galleria dell’Accademia

1 Duomo
Set in the heart of Florence, Santa Maria del . Campanile
At 85 m (276 ft), the
Fiore – the Duomo, or cathedral, of Florence Campanile is 6 m (20 ft)
– dominates the city with its enormous shorter than the dome.
dome. Its sheer size was typical of Florentine It is clad in white, green
and pink Tuscan marble.
determination to lead in all things, and to
The first-floor reliefs are
this day, no other building stands taller in by Andrea Pisano.
the city. The Baptistry, with its celebrated
doors, is one of Florence’s oldest buildings,
dating perhaps from the 4th century. In his
capacity as city architect, Giotto designed
the Campanile in 1334; it was completed in
1359, 22 years after his death.
. Baptistry
Colorful 13th-century mosaics illustrating The
Last Judgment decorate the ceiling above the
large octagonal font where many famous
Florentines, including Dante, were baptized.
Main
entrance
South Door Panels

This scene from the
south doors of the Steps to Santa Reparata
Baptistry, completed The crypt contains the remains of the church
by the sculptor Andrea of Santa Reparata, built in the 4th century,
Pisano in 1336, depicts and demolished in 1296 to make way for a
The Baptism of St. John cathedral which would more fittingly represent
the Baptist. Florence and rival those of Siena and Pisa.
FLORENCE  399
Piazza del Duomo.
Tel 055-230 28 85.
Open Mon–Sat, Sun pm.
Closed religious hols.
. Dome 7 Crypt: Open Mon–Sat. &
Brunelleschi’s revolutionary
Dome: Open daily. &
achievement was to build the
Campanile: Open daily. &
largest dome of its time
Baptistry: Open pm Mon–Sat;
without scaffolding. As you
Sun am. All buildings Closed Jan
climb the 463 steps to
1 & religious hols. &
the top, you can see
∑ ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it
how an inner shell
provides a platform Transport
for the timbers @ 1, 6, 14, 17, 23.
that support the
outer shell.
Chapels at the East End

The three apses each house
five chapels and are crowned
by a miniature copy of the
dome. The 15th-century
stained glass is by Lorenzo
Ghiberti and other artists.
Entrance to steps
to the dome
Marble Pavement
As you climb up to the dome, you can see that
the 16th-century marble pavement, designed
in part by Baccio d’Agnelo, is laid out as a maze.
KEY
1 The east doors, known as 3 The Neo-Gothic marble facade 7 Bricks of varying size were
the “Gate of Paradise” (1424–52), echoes the style of Giotto’s camp- set in a self- supporting herring-
were made by Ghiberti. While anile, but was added in 1871–87. bone pattern – a technique
replicas adorn the Baptistry, Brunelleschi copied from the
4 Gothic windows
the originals can be found in Pantheon in Rome.
the Duomo museum. 5 The top of the dome offers
8 The octagonal marble
spectacular views over the city. sanctuary around the High
2 The Baptistry doors
demonstrate the artistic ideas that 6 Last Judgment frescoes Altar was skilfully decorated by
led to the Renaissance. by Vasari Baccio Bandinelli.
6 Bargello Of the church’s many chapels,

the most famous is the Bardi
Via del Proconsolo 4. Tel 055-238 86
Chapel, decorated by Giotto
06. @ A, 14. Open daily. Closed 1st,
3rd & 5th Mon and 2nd & 4th Sun of
with frescoes of the life of St.
each month, Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. & Francis (1315–23). The Peruzzi
7 ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it Chapel houses further Giotto
frescoes. Gaddi’s 1338 fresco
Florence’s second-ranking in the Baroncelli Chapel of an
museum after the Uffizi, the angel appearing to sleeping
Bargello houses Italy’s finest shepherds is notable as the first
collection of Renaissance true night scene in Western art.
sculpture and some superb In the cloister alongside the
Mannerist bronzes. Begun in church is Brunelleschi’s Cappella
1255, the fortress-like building de’ Pazzi (Pazzi Chapel), a
was initially the town hall but masterpiece of Renaissance
later home to the chief of police architecture. The delicate gray
(the Bargello). The renovated stonework of the domed
building opened as one of Italy’s chapel is set off by white plaster,
first national museums in 1865. Gaddi’s night scene fresco in the Baroncelli which is inset with terra-cotta
The key exhibits range over Chapel, Santa Croce roundels of the Evangelists by
three floors, beginning with the Luca della Robbia.
Michelangelo Room. Here ceramics, silverware, and other
visitors can admire Bacchus objets d’art. The Salone del
8 Piazza della
(1497), the sculptor’s first large Camino on the second floor
free-standing work, a delicate holds the finest collection Signoria
circular relief depicting of small bronzes in Italy. @ A, B.
the Madonna and Benvenuto Cellini (1500–71)
Child (1503–5), and is among the artists featured. Piazza della Signoria has been at
Brutus (1539–40), the heart of Florence’s political
his only known and social life for centuries.
portrait bust. 7 Santa Croce Citizens were once summoned
Among other Piazza di Santa Croce. Tel 055-246 61 to public meetings here, and
sculptors’ 05. @ C, 14, 23. Open daily (Sun: pm the square’s statues celebrate
works in the only). & 7 ∑ santacroceopera.it events in the city’s history. That
same room is of Grand Duke Cosimo I (1595)
Mercury (1564), The Gothic church of Santa by Giambologna commemorates
Giambologna’s Croce (1294) contains the
famous bronze. tombs and monuments of
Across the many famous Florentines,
courtyard, two among them Galileo, Michel-
more rooms angelo, and Machiavelli, as well
contain exterior as radiant early 14th- century
sculptures frescoes by Giotto and his
Donatello’s statue of removed from gifted pupil, Taddeo Gaddi.
David in the sites around In 1842 the Neo-Gothic
Bargello the city and campanile of Santa Croce was
an external added, and the facade in 1863.
staircase leads In the Basilica, Rossellino’s
to a first-floor collection of effigy (1447) of Leonardo
bronze birds by Giambologna. Bruni, the great Humanist
To the right, the Salone del depicted in serene old age, is a
Consiglio Generale contains triumph of realistic portraiture.
the cream of the museum’s Close by it is the 15th-century
Early Renaissance sculpture, Annunciation by Donatello.
including Donatello’s heroic The remainder of the monastic
St George (1416) and his buildings scattered around
androgynous David (c.1430). the cloister form a museum
Restored in 2008, it is famous as of religious painting and
the first free-standing nude by sculpture. The museum
a Western artist since antiquity. houses Cimabue’s Crucifixion,
Beyond the Salone, the a 13th-century masterpiece
Bargello’s emphasis shifts to damaged in the flood of 1966,
the applied arts, with room and Gaddi’s magnificent
after room devoted to rugs, Last Supper (c.1355–60). Statue of Cosimo I in Piazza della Signoria
FLORENCE  401
the man who subjugated all

Tuscany, while Ammannati’s
Neptune Fountain honors Tuscan
naval victories. Michelangelo’s
original David stood here until
1873, when it was replaced by a
copy. Donatello’s original statue
of the heraldic lion of Florence,
known as the Marzocco, is now
in the Bargello.
Other notable statues include
Cellini’s bronze Perseus, and The
Rape of the Sabine Women by
Giambologna, carved from a
single block of marble.
Painting of Penelope in Eleonora’s rooms in the Palazzo Vecchio
scenes of virtuous women. (Academy for Experimentation),

Highlights of the palace include founded in memory of Galileo
the paintings by Il Bronzino in by Grand Duke Ferdinand II
the Cappella di Eleonora and in 1657.
the loggia, which has wonderful Some of the finest exhibits
views over the city. The Sala dei include early maps, antique
Gigli (Room of Lilies), contains microscopes, astrolabes, and
frescoes of Roman heroes and barometers. Of equal interest
Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes. are the huge 16th- and 17th-
There is also a Children’s century globes illustrating the
Museum, with story-telling motion of the planets and stars.
sessions and tours in various Be sure to see Lopo Homem’s
languages. One tour takes in 16th-century map of the world,
formerly secret stairways, showing the newly charted
The Putto fountain in Vasari’s courtyard, at hidden passages, and attics. coasts of the Americas, and the
the Palazzo Vecchio nautical instruments invented
by Sir Robert Dudley, an
9 Palazzo Vecchio 0 Museo di Storia
Elizabethan marine engineer
Piazza della Signoria. Tel 055-276 83 della Scienza employed by the Medicis.
25. @ A, B. Open daily (Thu: am only). Piazza de’ Giudici 1. Tel 055-26 53 11. The second-floor rooms
&7 Open 9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat (to 1pm display fine old clocks,
Tue). Closed public hols. 8 calculators, a horrifying
Palazzo Vecchio, completed in ∑ museogalileo.it collection of 19th-century
1322, has retained its external surgical instruments, weights
medieval appearance, and its This lively museum devotes and measures, and graphic
imposing bell tower dominates numerous rooms on two floors anatomical models.
the square. The “Old Palace” still to different scientific themes,
fulfils its original role as illustrating each with fine
Florence’s town hall. Much of displays and beautifully
the interior was remodeled for made early scientific
Duke Cosimo I in the mid-16th instruments. It is also
century by Vasari, whose work something of a shrine
includes several frescoes that to the Pisa-born
laud the Duke’s achievements. scientist, Galileo
The palazzo is entered via a Galilei (1564–1642),
courtyard, in which stands and features two
Verrochio’s Putto fountain. A of his telescopes as
staircase leads to the Salone dei well as large-scale
Cinquecento, which is graced reconstructions of
by Michelangelo’s Victory statue his experiments into
(1525), and to the tiny Studiolo motion, weight, velocity,
decorated by 30 of Florence’s and acceleration. These are
leading Mannerist painters. sometimes demonstrated
Eleonora of Toledo, wife of by the attendants. Other
Cosimo I, had a suite of rooms exhibits come from the Armillary sphere, Museo di Storia
in the palace, decorated with Accademia del Cimento della Scienza
The Florentine Renaissance

Fifteenth-century Italy saw a flowering of the arts and
scholarship unmatched in Europe since Ancient Greek and
Roman times. It was in wealthy Florence that this artistic and
intellectual activity, later dubbed the Renaissance, was at its
most intense. The patronage of the rich banking dynasty, the
Medici, rulers of Florence from 1434, was lavished on the city,
especially under Lorenzo the Magnificent (1469–92), and the Italy in 1492
city aspired to become the new Rome. Architects turned to Republic of Florence
Classical models for inspiration, while the art world, with a Papal States
new understanding of perspective and anatomy, produced a Aragonese possessions

series of painters and sculptors that included such giants as
Donatello, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo.
Giuliano was the Piero de’ Medici, Lorenzo’s

younger son of father, was given the nickname
Piero de’ Medici. “the Gouty.”
The Procession of the Magi

Benozzo Gozzoli’s fresco (1459) in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi, Florence, depicts members of
the Medici family and other contemporary
notables. It contains references to the church
council held in Florence in 1439, which, it was
hoped, would effect a reconciliation between
the Church of Rome and the Eastern Church.
Pope Leo X
There were two Medici popes: Giovanni, who
reigned as Leo X (1513–21), and Giulio, who
took his place as Clement VII (1521–34).
Corruption in the church under Leo inspired
Luther and the growth of Protestantism.
1436 Brunelleschi completes 1452

1434 Cosimo de’ Medici comes dome of Florence cathedral Birth of 1464 Death
to power in Florence Leonardo of Cosimo
da Vinci il Vecchio
1425 1450
1420 Martin V 1453 Fall of

re-establishes Constantinople 1469 Lorenzo
papacy in Rome 1435 Publication of On Painting by the Magnificent
Cosimo de’ Alberti, which contains the first system becomes ruler
Medici for the use of linear perspective of Florence
FLORENCE  403
Michelangelo’s Sculpture Renaissance Architecture

The Quattro Prigioni (see
In place of the spectacular Gothic style,
p397), unfinished works
Renaissance architects favored the rational,
intended for the tomb of
orderly, human scale of Greek and Roman
Pope Julius II, illustrate
buildings. The various stories of a palazzo
Michelangelo’s ideal of
were designed according to Classical
liberating “the figure
proportions and there was a widespread
imprisoned in the marble.”
revival in the use of Roman arches and
the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders
of columns.
Palazzo Strozzi
(1489–1536) is a
Filippo Brunelleschi typical Florentine
In order to realize his building of the
design for the dome of period. Rusticated
Florence’s cathedral, stonework gives an
Brunelleschi devised impression of great
engineering techniques strength. Decorative
decades ahead of their time. detail is largely on
the upper stories
Lorenzo de’ above the fortress-
Medici (the like ground floor.
Magnificent) is
depicted as one
of the three
kings traveling
to Bethlehem.
The Spedale degli Innocenti, an

orphanage, was one of Brunelleschi’s first
buildings in Florence. Slender Corinthian
columns support a delicate arcade.
Humanism
Carpaccio’s painting
St. Augustine in his
The Medici Study (1502) is
emblem of
thought to show
seven balls
appears on the Cardinal Bessarion
trappings of (c.1395–1472), one
Lorenzo’s horse. of the scholars who
revived interest in
Classical philosophy,
especially Plato.
1498 Savonarola 1532 Machiavelli’s book The Prince is

1513 Giovanni de’ published, five years after his death
executed; Machiavelli
Medici crowned
secretary to ruling 1530 Medici restored as
Pope Leo X
Council in Florence rulers of Florence
1475 1500 1525

1494 Italy invaded by Charles
1475 Birth of VIII of France. Florence 1512 Michelangelo
Michelangelo declared republic under completes Sistine
leadership of the religious Chapel ceiling
1483 Birth
of Raphael fanatic Savonarola Niccolò
Machiavelli
q Uffizi The Vasari

Corridor leads to
The Uffizi was built in 1560–80 as a suite of the Palazzo
Vecchio.
offices (uffici) for Duke Cosimo I’s new Tuscan
administration. The architect, Vasari, used iron Main staircase
reinforcement to create an almost continuous
wall of glass on the upper story. From 1581 Entrance
Cosimo’s heirs, beginning with Francesco I, Hall 1
used this well-lit space to display

Entrance
the Medici family art treasures,
thus creating what is 4
now the oldest art
3 6
gallery in the world. 5-
2 7
The café terrace merits

a visit for its unusual
views of Piazza della 45 8
Bar
Signoria (see pp400–401).
43
44
Corridor ceilings are frescoed in
the “grotesque” style of the 1580s,
inspired by Roman grottoes.
42
Gallery Guide
The Uffizi art collection is
housed on the top floor.
Ancient Greek and Roman
sculptures are displayed in the
41
corridor running round the
inner side of the building. The
paintings are hung in a series 6
-3
37
of rooms off the main corridor,
in chronological order, to reveal 38
the development of Florentine 35
art from Gothic to High
Renaissance and beyond. Most 34
of the best-known paintings
are grouped in rooms 7–18. To Buontalenti
avoid the long queues, book staircase
The Ognissanti Madonna
your visiting time in advance. 33
Giotto’s grasp of spatial depth
in this altarpiece (1310) was a 32
31
milestone in the mastery of 27
perspective. 29 28
30
Key to Floorplan
East Corridor Entrance to the
West Corridor Vasari Corridor
Arno Corridor
Gallery Rooms 1–45
Non-exhibition space
. The Venus of Urbino (1538)
Titian’s sensuous nude was condemned
for portraying the goddess in such an
immodest pose.
FLORENCE  405
Piazzale degli Uffizi 6.
Tel 055-29 48 83 (bookings).
Open 8:15am–6:50pm Tue–Sun
(last adm: 45 mins before closing).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25.
& 7 (partial). = 9
∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
Transport
@ B, 23.
. The Duke and Duchess of Urbino (1460)

Piero della Francesca’s panels are among the first true
Renaissance portraits. He even recorded the Duke’s
hooked nose – broken by a sword blow.
4
-1
10
The Tribune,
16 decorated in
red and gold,
15 contains the
works that
the Medici
17 valued most.
18
19
20 . The Birth of Venus (1485)
21
Botticelli’s captivating image shows the Roman
goddess of love, born in a storm in the Aegean sea.
22 She is blown ashore by the winds and greeted by
nymphs, ready to wrap her in a cloak.
23
24
Adoration of the
Magi (c.1481)
Although Leonardo
da Vinci did not finish
25 this painting of the
26 wise men worshipping
the baby Jesus, it is
considered to be one
of his most important
early works.
Vasari’s
Classical
Arno facade
. The Holy Family (1507)

Michelangelo’s painting, the first to break with the
convention of showing Christ on the Virgin’s lap,
inspired subsequent Mannerist artists through its
expressive handling of color and posture.
Exploring the Uffizi’s Collection

The Uffizi houses some of the greatest art of the Renaissance.
Accumulated over the centuries by the Medici, the collection
was first housed in the Uffizi in 1581, and eventually
bequeathed to the people of Florence by Anna Maria Lodovica,
the last of the Medici (1667–1743). Roman statues collected
by the Medici are on display in the Arno Corridor, but the
pride of the gallery is its matchless collection of paintings.
perspective than Paolo Uccello

(1397–1475), whose Battle of
Gothic Art San Romano is displayed in
Following the collection of room 7. Portraits include two
statues and antiquities in room panels by Piero della Francesca
1, the gallery’s next six rooms (1410–92), depicting the Duke
are devoted to Tuscan art from and Duchess of Urbino, while
the 12th to the 14th centuries, Fra Filippo Lippi’s Madonna
notably works by Cimabue, and Child with Angels (1455–66) Madonna of the Long Neck by
Duccio, and Giotto, the three is a work of great warmth Parmigianino (c.1534)
greatest artists of this period. and humanity.
Giotto (1266–1337) introduced For most visitors, however, the European painters such as
a degree of naturalism new to famous Botticellis in rooms Dürer (1471–1528) are well
Tuscan art. This is apparent in 10–14 are the highlight of the represented.
the range of emotions gallery. In The Birth of Venus, Michelangelo’s Holy Family
expressed by the angels and Botticelli replaces the Virgin (1507), in Room 25, is striking
saints in his Ognissanti Madonna with the Classical goddess of for its vibrant colors and the
(1310). There are also fine works love, while in Primavera (1480), curious twisted pose of the
by Ambrogio and Pietro he breaks with Christian Virgin. This painting had great
Lorenzetti, and Simone Martini religious painting to depict influence on the next
of the Sienese School. the pagan rite of spring. generation of Tuscan painters,
notably Bronzino (1503–72),
Pontormo (1494–1556), and
Parmigianino (1503–40), whose
Early Renaissance High Renaissance Madonna of the Long Neck with
A better understanding of and Mannerism its contorted anatomy and
geometry and perspective Room 15 contains works unusual colors is a classic
allowed Renaissance artists to attributed to the young example of what came to be
create an illusion of space and Leonardo da Vinci. The evolution known as Mannerism.
depth in their works. No artist of his masterly style can be Sublime examples of High
was more obsessed with traced in The Annunciation Renaissance art located nearby
(1472–5) and his unfinished include Raphael’s Madonna of
Adoration of the Magi (1481). the Goldfinch and Titian’s
The octagonal Tribune notorious Venus of Urbino
(room 18) displays some of (1538), considered by many
the best-loved pieces of the to be the most beautiful
Medici collection, including nude ever painted.
the 1st century BC Medici
Venus, considered the most
erotic of ancient statues.
There are also paintings of Later Paintings
family members, including Rooms 41–45 of the Uffizi hold
Bronzino’s fine portrait of paintings acquired by the Medici
Eleonora of Toledo, Cosimo in the 17th and 18th centuries.
I’s wife (1545). These include works by Rubens
Rooms 19 to 23 (1577–1640). Three paintings by
illustrate the spread of Caravaggio – Bacchus (c.1589),
Renaissance ideas and The Sacrifice of Isaac (c.1590),
techniques beyond and Medusa (1596–8) – are in the
Florence to other parts Sala del Caravaggio. Room 44 is
of Italy and beyond. The dedicated to northern European
Umbrian artist Perugino painting, and features Portrait of
Madonna of the Goldfinch (1506) by Raphael (1446–1523) and northern an Old Man (1665) by Rembrandt.
FLORENCE  407
w Ponte Vecchio opulently decorated with gold

and white stuccoed ceilings. The
@ many routes.
rooms are hung with portraits of
The Ponte Vecchio, the oldest the Medici family and decorated
surviving bridge in the city, with beautiful frescoes and
was designed by Taddeo Gaddi, Gobelins tapestries.
and built in 1345. The three- Other collections at the
arched bridge rests on two Palazzo include the Galleria
stout piers with boat-shaped d’Arte Moderna, with mainly
cutwaters. Its picturesque 19th-century works of art, the
shops were originally occupied Galleria del Costume, opened in
by blacksmiths, butchers, and 1983, which reflects changing
tanners (who used the river taste in courtly fashions, and the
as a convenient garbage Museo degli Argenti which
dump). They were evicted in displays the family’s lavish tastes
1593 by Duke Ferdinando I The massive Renaissance Palazzo Pitti, in silverware and furniture.
and replaced by jewelers and home to several museums
goldsmiths who were able to
pay higher rents. A bust of the e Palazzo Pitti
most famous of Florence’s Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
goldsmiths, Benvenuto Cellini 055-29 48 83. Open 8:15am–6:50pm
(1500–71), is located in the Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
middle of the bridge. ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
The elevated Vasari Corridor
runs along the eastern side of Palazzo Pitti was originally built
the bridge, above the shops. It for the banker Luca Pitti, but his
was designed in 1565 to allow attempt to outrival the Medici
the Medici to move from the backfired when costs of the
Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti building, begun in 1457, bank-
via the Uffizi, without having rupted his heirs. The Medici
to mix with the public. The moved in and subsequent
Mannelli family refused to rulers of the city lived here.
demolish their tower to make Today, the richly decorated
way for the corridor, and it rooms exhibit many treasures
stands there defiantly to this from the Medici collections.
day. The corridor passes around The Palatine Gallery contains
it, supported on brackets. numerous works of art and L’Isolotto with Giambologna’s Oceanus
The “Old Bridge,” at its most ceiling frescoes glorifying the Fountain, Boboli Gardens
attractive when viewed at Medici. Raphael’s Madonna della
sunset, was the only one to Seggiola (c.1515) and Titian’s r Boboli Gardens
escape destruction during Portrait of a Gentleman (1540) Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
World War II. Visitors today come are among the exhibits. 055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open daily.
to admire the views and to On the first floor of the south Closed 1st & last Mon of month, Jan 1,
browse among the antiques wing, the royal apartments – May 1, Dec 25. & 7
and specialized jewelry shops. Appartamenti Reali – are
Laid out behind Palazzo Pitti,
the Boboli Gardens are a great
example of stylized Renaissance
gardening. Formal box hedges
lead to peaceful groves of holly
and cypress trees, interspersed
with Classical statues.
Highlights include the stone
amphitheater where early opera
performances were staged and
L’Isolotto (Little Island), with its
statues of dancing peasants
around a moated garden. The
Grotta Grande is a Mannerist
folly, which houses several
statues including Venus Bathing
(1565) by Giambologna and
Vincenzo de’ Rossi’s Paris with
View of the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno at sunset Helen of Troy (1560).
9 Portofino and 17th-century

Peninsula frescoes by local artists.
Once the seat of the
g @ n PIazza Molfino 10, doges of Genoa and
Rapallo (0185-64 761). now an arts and cultural
∑ terrediportofino.eu
center, the Palazzo
Ducale is located
Portofino is the most exclusive between San Lorenzo
harbor and resort town in Italy, cathedral with its
crammed with the yachts of the attached museum, and
wealthy. Cars are not allowed Il Gesù, a Baroque
in the village but boats run church. All that remains
regularly between here and the of the Gothic church of
resort of Santa Margherita Sant’ Agostino,
Ligure. Boats also run to the bombed in World War II,
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, an is the bell tower, which
11th-century abbey situated on is decorated with
the other side of the peninsula. colored tiles. Two
Further west along the coast surviving cloisters of its
is Punta Chiappa, a rocky Gothic facade of San Lorenzo, Genoa surrounding monastery
promontory famous for the have been turned into
changing colors of the sea. around the city, which are among the Museo di
Other attractive resorts along the finest in northwestern Italy. Sant’Agostino, which contains
the Ligurian coast include the The austere-looking Palazzo the city’s collection of sculptural
fishing village of Camogli, Reale, one-time residence of and architectural fragments.
Rapallo and its patrician villas, the Kings of Savoy, has a highly
and romantic Portovenere. ornate Rococo interior, a P Palazzo Reale
collection of paintings including Via Balbi 10. Tel 010-271 02 36.
works by Parodi and van Dyck, Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm only.
0 Genoa and an attractive garden. Closed Jan 1, Apr 25, May 1, Dec 25.
Opposite the palace is the old & 7 ∑ palazzodigenova.
* 660,000. k Cristoforo Colombo
University (1634), built on four beniculturali.it
6 km (4 miles) W. g £ @ n Via
Garibaldi (010-557 29 03). ( Mon, levels and designed by the P Palazzo Bianco
Wed, & Thu. _ International Ballet architect Bartolomeo Bianco. Via Garibaldi 11. Tel 010-557 21 93.
Festival (Jul); Fiera Nautica (Oct). Palazzo Bianco, on the Via Open Tue–Sun. & Palazzo Rosso:
∑ visitgenoa.it Garibaldi, contains the city’s Tel 010-557 49 72. Open Tue–Sun. &
prime collection of paintings,
The most important commercial including works by Lippi, van E Museo di Sant’Agostino
port in Italy, Genoa (Genova in Dyck, and Rubens. Across the Piazza Sarzano 35R. Tel 010-251 12 63.
Italian) also possesses palaces, street, Palazzo Rosso houses Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
paintings, and sculptures dotted works by Dürer and Caravaggio, & 7 ∑ museodigenova.it
Portofino’s famous harbor, lined with colorful terraces

I TA LY  409
by Bernardo Drovetti, and antique treasures. Turin’s

Napoleon’s Consul symbol, the 167-m (547-ft) Mole
General in Egypt. Antonelliana, hosts the excellent
Wall and tomb Museo Nazionale del Cinema.
paintings, papyri,
sculptures, and a E Museo Egizio
reconstruction of Via Accademia delle Scienze 6.
the 15th-century Tel 011-561 77 76. Open Tue–Sun.
BC Rock Temple Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 =
of Ellessya are ∑ museoegizio.it
among its marvels. P Palazzo Reale
The Galleria Piazzetta Reale 1. Tel 011-436 14 55.
Sabauda, in the Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1,
same building, was Dec 25. & 8 7 - =
The Dome of San Lorenzo in Turin the House of Savoy’s ∑ ilpalazzorealeditorino.it
main painting E Museo Nazionale del Cinema
q Turin collection, and houses a stunning Via Montebello 20. Tel 011-813 85 60.
* 940,000. k Caselle 15 km (9 miles) array of works by Italian, French, Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
N. £ @ n Piazza Castello (011-53 51 Flemish, and Dutch masters. & - = ∑ museocinema.it
81). ( Sat. _ Festa di San Giovanni Other notable buildings
(Jun 24). ∑ turismotorino.org include San Lorenzo, the
former Royal Chapel designed
Home of the Fiat car company, by Guarino Guarini (1624–83),
the famous Shroud, and the which boasts an extraordinary
Juventus football team, Turin geometric dome. The Palazzo
(Torino to the Italians) is also a Reale, seat of the Savoys, holds
town of grace and charm, with a vast arms collection.
superb Baroque architecture. The Duomo (1497–8), Turin’s
Many of Turin’s monuments cathedral dedicated to St. John
were erected by the House of the Baptist, is the only example
Savoy (rulers of Piedmont and of Renaissance architecture in
Sardinia) from their capital here, the city. Inside, the Cappella
before Italian unification in 1861 della Sacra Sindone, also
made the head of the House of designed by Guarini, houses
Savoy King of Italy. the famous Turin Shroud. The imposing portico of the Baroque
The Museo Egizio – one of Inside the Palazzo Madama, Basilica di Superga
the world’s great collections of the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica
Egyptian artifacts – was amassed contains a variety of Classical Environs
In the countryside near Turin,
two superb monuments to
The Turin Shroud the House of Savoy are worth
The most famous – and most dubious – holy relic of them all is visiting. About 9 km (5 miles)
kept in Turin’s Duomo. The shroud, said to be the sheet in which southwest of Turin, Stupinigi
the body of Christ was wrapped after the Crucifixion, bears the is a magnificent hunting lodge,
imprint of a man with a side wound, and bruises, possibly from sumptuously decorated with
a crown of thorns. frescoes and paintings. It has
The shroud’s early history a vast collection of 17th- and
is unclear, but the House of 18th-century furniture.
Savoy was in possession of it The Baroque Basilica di
around 1450, and displayed it in Superga, on a hill to the east
Guarini’s chapel in the Duomo of Turin, offers good views of
from 1694. The shroud sits in a the city. Its mausoleum
silver casket inside an iron box
commemorates kings of
within a marble coffer. This has
Sardinia and other royals.
been placed inside an urn on
the chapel altar. A replica shroud
P Stupinigi
is on view. Tests done in 1988
Piazza Principe Amedeo 7.
claiming the shroud to be only
Tel 011-013 30 73. @ 41.
a 12th-century relic were
Open Tue–Sun. & 7
discredited by a US scientist
in 2005. The shroud may be R Basilica di Superga
1,300–3,000 years old, pending Strada Basilica di Superga 75.
further tests. The supposed face of Christ imprinted Tel 011-899 74 56. £ Historic
on the Turin Shroud tram from Sassi. Open daily. Tombs:
& ∑ basilicadisuperga.com
remarkable stained-glass
windows, bas-reliefs, and a
medieval treasury. More religious
artifacts can be seen in the
Museo del Duomo located in
the Palazzo Reale.
An ornate shopping arcade
completed in 1878, the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II links the
Piazza del Duomo with the
Piazza della Scala. It boasts a
superb metal and glass roof
crowned with a central dome,
has mosaic floors, and houses
stylish shops and restaurants.
The Neo-Classical Teatro alla
Scala opened in 1778 and is
among the most prestigious
opera houses in the world. Its
stage is one of the largest in
Europe. The adjoining Museo
Teatrale displays past sets and
costumes and offers a glimpse
of the auditorium.
The Castello Sforzesco, a
symbol of Milan, was initially
the palace of the Visconti family.
Francesco Sforza, who became
lord of Milan in 1450, embellished
The giant Gothic Duomo in central Milan, crowned with spires it, turning it into a magnificent
Renaissance residence. The
w Milan These dynasties became great building has a forbidding exterior,
patrons of the arts, with the a delightful interior, and contains
* 1,350,000. k Malpensa 55 km
result that Milan has acquired an impressive collection of
(34 miles) NW; Linate 8 km (5 miles) E.
£ @ n Piazza Duomo 19A (02-77 a host of artistic treasures. furniture, antiquities, and
40 43 43). ( daily, major market Sat. Today this chic, bustling, and paintings. Michelangelo’s
_ Sant’Ambrogio (Dec 7). prosperous metropolis also unfinished sculpture, known
∑ turismo.milano.it offers opportunities for as the Rondanini Pietà, can
designer shopping and also be seen here.
Center of fashion and gastronomic pleasures. Milan’s finest art collection
business, Milan (Milano in Situated at the very heart of is held in the imposing
Italian) also has a wealth of Milan, the giant Duomo is one 17th-century Palazzo di
impressive sights reflecting its of the largest Gothic churches Brera. Major works of Italian
long and checkered history. in the world. The roof is Renaissance and Baroque
An important trading center extraordinary with 135 spires painters including The Marriage
since it was founded by the and innumerable statues and of the Virgin by Raphael, and
Romans in 222 BC, Milan’s gargoyles. Inside, there are Mantegna’s Dead Christ, hang in
central position made it a
favored location for the empire’s
rulers. It was here that Emperor
Constantine declared that
Christianity was officially
recognized, following his own
conversion (known as the
Edict of Milan, AD 313).
By the Middle Ages Milan was
one of many cities in Lombardy
which opposed the power of
the Holy Roman Emperor. A
period of local dynastic rule
followed the fall of the region
to the Visconti family in 1277.
They were succeeded by the
Sforzas during the Renaissance. The glass dome of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan
I TA LY  411
the 38 rooms of the Pinacoteca an upside-down Y, and offers

di Brera. Works by some of fine views of the Alps.
Italy’s 20th-century artists are In the heart of the town
also on display. of Como lies the elegant
The beautiful 15th-century Piazza Cavour. The beautiful
Renaissance convent of Santa 14th-century Duomo nearby has
Maria delle Grazie, in the 15th- and 16th-century reliefs
southwest of the city, is a must- and paintings, and fine tombs.
see because it contains one of Bellagio, at the junction of
the key images of western the “Y,” has spectacular views,
civilization: the Last Supper (or and is one of the most popular
Cenacolo) of Leonardo da Vinci. spots on Lake Como.
The large wall painting has In the lakeside town of
deteriorated badly but remains Tremezzo, the 18th-century
an iconic work of great subtlety. Villa Carlotta is adorned with
Sant’Ambrogio is a mainly sculptures and celebrated for
10th-century Romanesque its terraced gardens.
basilica dedicated to the patron Statue of Carlo Borromeo, patron saint of
saint of Milan whose tomb lies Lake Maggiore, in Arona
in the crypt. The 4th-century t Lake Garda
church of San Lorenzo holds an From here Monte Mottarone, £ to Desenzano and Orta San
important collection of Roman a snow-capped peak offering Giulio. @ 4 Navigazione Lago
and early Christian remains. spectacular panoramic views, di Garda (800-55 18 01). n Piazza
can be reached by cable car. Virgilio 52, Colombare di Sirmione
R Duomo (030-990 91 84).
Piazza del Duomo. & roof, baptistry
and treasury. 7 Museo del Duomo: r Lake Como Garda, the largest of the
Tel 02-72 02 33 75. Open daily. £ to Como and Lecco. @ 4 northern lakes, borders the
+ Castello Sforzesco Navigazione Lago di Como (800 55 three regions of Trentino,
Piazza Castello. Tel 02-88 46 37 00. 18 01). n Piazza Cavour 17, Como Lombardy, and Veneto.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. (031-26 97 12). ∑ turismo.como.it Hydrofoils and catamarans
7 limited. ply the lake, offering stops at
E Pinacoteca di Brera
Set in an idyllic landscape, Sirmione, site of a medieval
Via Brera 28. Tel 02-72 26 31.
Como has long attracted castle, Gardone with the
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Dec visitors who come to walk curiosity-filled Villa il Vittoriale,
25. & 8 7 = in the hills or to go boating. and Salò where Mussolini
The long, narrow lake, also established a short-lived
R Santa Maria delle Grazie known as Lario, is shaped like Republic in 1943.
Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2.
Cenacolo: Tel 02-46 76 11 25.
Open daily (booking compulsory).
Closed public hols. & 7
e Lake Maggiore
£ to Stresa and Laveno. @ 4
Navigazione Lago Maggiore (800 55
18 01). n Piazza Marconi 16, Stresa
(0323-301 50).
Lake Maggiore is a long

expanse of water that nestles
right against the mountains
and stretches away into Alpine
Switzerland. In the center lie
the exquisite Borromean
islands named after the chief
patron of the lake, St. Carlo
Borromeo, of whom there
is a giant statue in Arona.
Further up the western coast
of the lake is Stresa, the chief
resort and main jumping-off
point for visits to the islands. The attractive town of Menaggio on the western shore of Lake Como
The Arena, Verona’s Roman amphitheater – the setting for spectacular summer opera performances
y Mantua frescoes by Mantegna in the u Verona

* 55,000. £ @ n Piazza Andrea Camera degli Sposi (1465–74), * 261,000. k Villafranca 12 km (7
Mantegna 6 (0376-43 24 32). ( Thu. are a highlight. They portray the miles) SW. £ @ n Via degli Alpini 9
Gonzaga family and court, and (045-806 86 80). ( daily. _ Estate
A striking if stern-looking city of the room is completed by a Teatrale Veronese (Jun–Aug); Opera
fine squares and aristocratic light-hearted trompe l’oeil ceiling. Festival (Jul–Sep).
architecture, Mantua (Mantova The nearby Duomo has an ∑ tourism.verona.it
in Italian) is bordered on three 18th-century façade and fine
sides by lakes. It was the interior stuccoes by Giulio Verona, a large and prosperous
birthplace of the poet Virgil and Romano (c.1492–1546). city of the Veneto region, boasts
playground for three centuries Piazza dell’Erbe is dominated magnificent Roman ruins,
of the Gonzaga dukes. Mantua by the Basilica di Sant’ Andrea second only to those of Rome
was also the setting for Verdi’s (15th century), designed largely itself, as well as some important
opera Rigoletto, and is by the early Renaissance medieval monuments.
mentioned in Shakespeare’s architect and theorist, Alberti. The Arena, Verona’s Roman
Romeo and Juliet. These Across town is the early amphitheater completed in
theatrical connections are 16th-century Palazzo Tè, AD 30, is the third largest in the
celebrated in local street names designed as the Gonzaga world. Concerts, plays, and
and monuments, and are family’s summer retreat. This opera productions are staged
reinforced by the presence in extraordinary palace is here. Other Roman sites include
the town of the 18th-century decorated with frescoes by the Roman Theater, and artifacts
Teatro Scientifico Bibiena, a Giulio Romano and has rooms from Roman times can be seen
masterpiece of late Baroque lavishly painted with horses and in the Museo Archeologico.
theater architecture. signs of the zodiac. The tragic story of Romeo
Mantua is focused on three and Juliet, first set here by Luigi
attractive main squares. Piazza P Palazzo Ducale da Porto in the 1520s and
Sordello is the site of the Palazzo Piazza Sordello 40. Tel 0376-35 21 00. immortalized by Shakespeare,
Ducale, the vast former home of Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May 1, has inspired local monuments
the Gonzaga family which also Dec 25. & 8 (audio). 7 Camera such as Romeo’s House and
incorporates a 14th-century degli Sposi: Tel 041-241 18 97. the so-called Tomb of Juliet.
fortress and a basilica. The Open by appointment only. Verona’s focal point is Piazza
Erbe, scene of colorful markets
for 2,000 years.
The ornate tombs of members
of the Scaglieri family, who ruled
the city for 127 years from 1263,
are situated beside the entrance
to the church of Santa Maria
Antica. Another legacy of the
family is Castelvecchio, an
impressive castle built by
Cangrande II between 1355
and 1375. There is a fine art
gallery in the castle, which has a
collection of 15th-century late
Renaissance Madonnas. Built in
The 13th-century facade of the Palazzo Ducale in Mantua 1125–35 to house the shrine of
I TA LY  413
Verona’s patron saint, San Zeno

Maggiore is the most ornate
Romanesque church in northern
Italy, famous for its unusual
medieval bronze door panels.
The Duomo also dates from
the 12th century and displays
Titian’s Assumption. Other notable
medieval churches in Verona are
San Fermo Maggiore, with
many interior frescoes including
the Annunciation by Pisanello
(1377–1455), and Sant’Anastasia,
which houses 15th-century
frescoes and holy water stoups
supported by figures of beggars
known locally as i gobbi.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio in Padua, with its Byzantine domes
T Arena
Piazza Brà. Tel 045-800 32 04. statues. Beside it stands the o Padua
Open daily (Mon: pm only). 12th-century Torre di Piazza. * 220,000. £ @ n Vicolo
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25–26. & The Loggia del Capitaniato, Pedrocchi (049-201 00 80).
+ Castelvecchio to the northwest, was built ( Mon–Sat at Piazza delle Erbe.
Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045-806 26 by Palladio in 1571. Its upper ∑ turismopadova.it
11. Open daily. & = 8 (audio). rooms contain the city’s
council chamber. Padua is an old university town
Europe’s oldest surviving with an illustrious academic
i Vicenza indoor theater, the Teatro history. The city (Padova in
* 116,000. £ @ n Piazza Olimpico was begun by Italian) has two major
Matteotti 12 (0444-99 47 70). ( Tue & Palladio in 1579 and attractions – the Basilica di
Thu. _ Concert season (May–Jun). completed by his pupil, Sant’Antonio, one of the
∑ vicenzae.org Vincenzo Scamozzi. It most popular sites of
was Scamozzi who pilgrimage in Italy, and
Vicenza is celebrated for its created the permanent the Cappella degli
splendid, varied architecture. stage, built of wood Scrovegni, a beautifully
Known as the city of Andrea and plaster and painted decorated chapel. The
Palladio (1508–80), stonemason to look like marble. It exotic Basilica was built
turned architect, it offers a represents Thebes, a from 1232 to house
unique opportunity to study the Greek city, and uses the remains of the great
evolution of his distinctive style. perspective to create Franciscan preacher,
Piazza dei Signori at the an illusion of depth. St. Anthony of Padua.
heart of Vicenza is dominated Palladio was also The chapel (1303)
by the Palazzo della Ragione, responsible for the features a series of
known also as the Basilica. design of Palazzo frescoes depicting the
Palladio’s first public Chiericati which houses Memorial to Andrea life of Christ, painted
commission, this building has the Museo Civico, but Palladio in Vicenza by Giotto. The Museo
a roof like an upturned boat, the epitome of his work Civico Eremitani on
and a balustrade bristling with can be seen in the Villa the same site has a rich
Rotonda, in the countryside coin collection and an art gallery.
to the south of Vicenza. Other attractions include
the Duomo and Baptistry,
P Piazza dei Signori which contains one of Italy’s
Basilica: Tel 0444-22 28 11. Open daily most complete medieval fresco
during exhibitions. & cycles (painted by Giusto de’
Menabuoi in 1378), and the
P Teatro Olimpico
Palazzo della Ragione, built in
Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444-22 28 00.
1218 to serve as Padua’s law
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
&7
court and council chamber.
P Villa Rotonda R Cappella degli Scrovegni

Via della Rotonda 45. Tel 0498-79 13 Piazza Eremitani. Tel 049-201 00 20.
80. Villa: Open Mar–Nov: Wed & Sat. Open daily (advance booking
The illusionistic stage set of the Teatro & Garden: Open Tue–Sun. & 7 necessary). Closed public hols.
Olimpico in Vicenza ∑ villalarotonda.it &7
p Venice
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VENICE  415
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Getting Around
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On land, the only way to get around Venice is by

Rio
foot, and strolling through the city’s narrow streets

is one its greatest pleasures. By water, the vaporetto
(see p432) water bus plies the canals of the city and
links it to the various lagoon islands. More exotic
craft include gondolas, which are very expensive,
and the more reasonable traghetti (gondola ferries).
The speediest means of travel is water taxi.

1 St. Mark’s
The basilica blends architectural and decorative styles . Pentecost Mosaic
from East and West to create one of Europe’s greatest The interior of the dome
above the nave is
buildings. Built on a Greek-cross plan and crowned with
decorated with a
five huge domes, it is the third church to stand on this 12th-century mosaic
site. The first, built to enshrine the body of St. Mark in of the Holy Spirit
the 9th century, was destroyed by fire. The second was descending on
the Apostles in
pulled down in the 11th century to make way for a
tongues of fire.
truly spectacular edifice, reflecting the growing
power of the Republic and its links with Byzantium.
The dark interior is clad in wonderful mosaics,
gleaming with gold. Many treasures – statues,
icons, and the famous horses – were brought
to St. Mark’s after the 4th Crusade had
plundered Constantinople in 1204.
St. Mark flanked

by Angels
The statues crowning the
central arch were added
in the early 15th century.
. Horses of
St. Mark
The four horses
are replicas of the
gilded bronze Main
originals, kept entrance
in the Museo
Marciano, reached
from the atrium.
. Facade Mosaics
These are either heavily restored
or replacements of the originals.
This 17th-century work shows
the body of St. Mark being
smuggled out of Alexandria.
VENICE  417
. Pala d’Oro VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The greatest treasure of
St. Mark’s is kept behind Practical Information
the high altar. The Piazza San Marco.
magnificent altarpiece, Tel 041-241 38 17.
created originally in the Open Apr–Nov: 9:45am–5pm
10th century, is made Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun; Dec–Mar:
up of 250 gold panels, 9:45am–5pm Mon–Sat, 2–4pm
adorned with enamels Sun. Sightseeing limited during
and precious stones. services. 8 & 7 A strict dress
code applies in the church.
Transport
4 San Marco.
. Treasury
This contains many treasures
looted from Constantinople
by the Venetians in 1204. This
11th-century silver-gilt reliquary is
in the shape of a domed basilica.
KEY
1 The central arch features

13th-century carvings of the Labours
of the Months.
2 The atrium, or narthex, contains
many fine mosaics, notably those
of the Genesis Cupola showing
the Creation.
3 The Ascension Dome features
a magnificent 13th-century mosaic
of Christ surrounded by angels, the
12 Apostles, and the Virgin Mary.
4 The altar canopy, or baldacchino,
has alabaster columns carved with
New Testament scenes.
5 St. Mark’s body, thought to
have been lost in the fire of 976,
The Tetrarchs reappeared when the new church
This porphyry sculptural group was consecrated in 1094. The
(4th-century Egyptian) may remains are housed below the altar.
represent Diocletian, Maximian,
Constantius, and Valerian – 6 Allegorical mosaics decorate
the four joint rulers of the the floor of the south transept.
Roman Empire c.AD 300, 7 Baptistry
known as the tetrarchs.
2 Doge’s Palace
The official residence of the Venetian ruler
(Doge) was founded in the 9th century. The
present palace owes its external appearance
to the building work of the 14th and early
15th centuries. To create their airy Gothic
masterpiece, the Venetians broke with
tradition by perching the bulk of the palace
(built of pink Veronese marble) on top of an . Giants’ Staircase
apparent fretwork of loggias and arcades Statues by Sansovino of Neptune and Mars
(built of white Istrian stone). A tour of the at the top of this late 15th-century staircase
palace leads through a succession of richly symbolize Venice’s power at sea and on
land. Doges were crowned with the
decorated chambers and halls, ending with glittering zogia or
the Bridge of Sighs and the prisons. ducal cap on
the landing.
. Porta della Carta
This 15th-century Gothic
gate was the principal
entrance to the palace.
From it, a vaulted
passageway leads to the
Arco Foscari and the
internal courtyard.
Exit
KEY
1 The balcony on the west 4 The Sala del Senato was

facade was added in 1536 to the home of the senate, which
mirror the early 15th-century had some 200 members.
balcony looking onto the quay. 5 Anticollegio
2 Arco Foscari 6 The Sala del Consiglio dei
Dieci was once the meeting place
3 In the Sala del Collegio
of the powerful Council of Ten.
the doge would receive
ambassadors. The ceiling is 7 Sala della Bussola
decorated with 11 paintings (Compass Room)
by Veronese. 8 Ponte della Paglia

VENICE  419
Torture Chamber VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Suspects under interrogation were
hung on the walls of this room by Practical Information
cords tied around their wrists. Piazza San Marco 1.
Tel 041-271 59 11.
Open 8:30am–7pm daily.
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & = -
8 (audio). 7 limited.
Transport
4 San Marco.
Bridge of Sighs
The bridge was built in 1600 to link
the palace with the state prisons. It
reputedly acquired its name from
the sighs of prisoners being led
across it to face trial.
Drunkenness of Noah
This early 15th-century
sculpture, symbolic of the
frailty of man, is set on the
corner of the palace.
Main
entrance
. Sala del Maggior Consiglio

This vast chamber was the
meeting hall of Venice’s Great
Council. By the 16th century this
had over 2,000 members. The
entire end wall is taken up by
Tintoretto’s Paradise (1588–92).
confraternity. Construction The Adoration of the Shepherds.

began in 1515. The work was The carvings below the paintings
financed by donations from were added in the 17th century
Venetians keen to invoke San by sculptor Francesco Pianta.
Rocco’s protection, and the They include (near the altar)
Scuola quickly became one a caricature of Tintoretto with
of the wealthiest in Venice. his palette and brushes.
In 1564, its members decided The Sala dell’Albergo contains
to commission Tintoretto to perhaps the most breathtaking
decorate its walls and ceilings. of all Tintoretto’s masterpieces –
His earliest paintings, the first the Crucifixion (1565). Henry
of over 50 works he eventually James once remarked of this
created for the Scuola, fill the painting: “no single picture
small Sala dell’Albergo off the contains more of human
Upper Hall. His later paintings life; there is everything in
are in the Ground Floor Hall, it, including the most
just inside the entrance. exquisite beauty.”
Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Hat The ground floor cycle was
(anonymous), Museo Correr executed in 1583–7, when
5 Santa Maria
Tintoretto was in his sixties,
3 Museo Correr and consists of eight episodes Gloriosa dei Frari
Piazza San Marco (entrance in Ala from the life of Mary. They are Campo dei Frari. Tel 041-272 86 11.
Napoleonica). Tel 041-240 52 11. remarkable for the tranquil 4 San Tomà. Open Mon–Sat & Sun
4 San Marco. Open daily. serenity of paintings such pm. Closed Jan 1, Jan 6, Easter,
Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & = - 7 as The Flight into Egypt and Dec 25. & unless attending mass. ^
∑ correr.visitmuve.it St. Mary of Egypt.
Scarpagnino’s great staircase More commonly known as
Teodoro Correr bequeathed his (1544–6), leads to the Upper the Frari (a corruption of Frati,
extensive collection of works Hall, which was decorated by meaning brothers), this vast
of art to Venice in 1830, thus Tintoretto in 1575–81. The ceiling Gothic church dwarfs the
forming the core of the city’s is painted with scenes from the eastern area of San Polo. Its
fine civic museum. Old Testament. The three large 83-m (272-ft) campanile is the
Its first rooms form a suitably square paintings in the center tallest in the city after that of
Neo-Classical backdrop for early show episodes from the Book San Marco. The first church
statues by Antonio Canova of Exodus, all alluding to the on the site was built by the
(1757–1822). The rest of the charitable aims of the Scuola in Franciscans in 1250–1338,
floor covers the history of the alleviating thirst, sickness, and but was replaced by a larger
Venetian Republic, with maps, hunger. The vast wall paintings building completed in the mid-
coins, armor, and a host of feature episodes from the New 15th century. The airy interior
doge-related exhibits. Testament, linking with the is striking for its sheer size and
The second floor contains the ceiling paintings. Two of the for the quality of its works of
picture gallery. Works are hung most striking are The Temptation art, including masterpieces
chronologically, enabling one to of Christ, which shows a by Titian and Giovanni Bellini,
trace the evolution of Venetian handsome young Satan offering a statue by Donatello, and
painting. The most famous Christ two loaves of bread, and several grandiose tombs.
include the Portrait of a Young
Man in a Red Hat (c.1490),
once attributed to Carpaccio,
now thought to be by an artist
from the Ferrara/Bologna area,
and Carpaccio’s Two Venetian
Ladies (c.1507).
4 Scuola Grande di
San Rocco
Campo San Rocco. Tel 041-523 48 64.
4 San Tomà. Open daily. Closed Jan
1, Easter, Dec 25. & 7 = 8 (audio).
Founded in honor of San Rocco

(St. Roch), a saint who dedicated
his life to helping the sick, the
Scuola started out as a charitable Detail from Tintoretto’s Flight into Egypt, Scuola Grande di San Rocco
VENICE  421
The sacristy alterpiece, The

Madonna and Child (1488) by
Bellini, with its sublime use of
color, is one of Venice’s most
beautiful Renaissance paintings.
The main altarpiece is The
Assumption of the Virgin, a
spectacular, glowing work by
Titian (1518), which draws the
eye through the Renaissance
rood screen to the altar. Between
the altar and the screen is the
Monks’ Choir (1468), its three-
tiered stalls lavishly carved with
saints and Venetian city scenes. View across the Grand Canal to the Pescheria (fish market)
The Tomb of Canova, a marble,
pyramid-shaped tomb, was built Accademia. After passing the 14th century, it is striking for
after Canova’s death in 1822 by Rialto, the canal doubles back its vast scale and architectural
his pupils. It is similar to a design on itself along a stretch known austerity. Known as the
Canova himself had planned for as La Volta (the bend). It then Pantheon of Venice, it houses
a memorial for Titian. The Titian widens out and the views monuments to no fewer than
monument in the shape of a become more spectacular 25 doges. Among these are
triumphal arch that stands approaching San Marco. several fine works of art,
opposite was built by two of Facades may have faded and executed by the Lombardi
Canova’s pupils in 1853. foundations rotted, yet the family and other leading
canal remains, in the words sculptors. Pietro Lombardo
of the French ambassador created the magnificent
in 1495, “the most beautiful tombs of the doges Nicolò
street in the world.” Marcello (died 1474) and
Pietro Mocenigo (died 1476).
His masterpiece, the Tomb
7 Santi Giovanni
of Andrea Vendramin (died
e Paolo 1478), takes the form of a
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (also Roman triumphal arch.
signposted San Zanipolo). Tel 041- The main doorway, which is
523 59 13. 4 Fondamenta Nuove decorated with Byzantine reliefs
or Ospedale Civile. Open daily. and carvings, is one of Venice’s
Closed Sun am for mass. 7 = earliest Renaissance architectural
works. On the right as you
Known colloquially as San enter the church is a polyptych
High altar of the Frari church with Titian’s Zanipolo, Santi Giovanni e by Giovanni Bellini (c.1465)
Assumption of the Virgin Paolo vies with the Frari as the showing St. Vincent Ferrer,
city’s greatest Gothic church. a Spanish cleric, flanked by
Built by the Dominicans in the St. Sebastian and St. Christopher.
6 Grand Canal
4 1 from Ferrovia and many others.
The Gondolas of Venice
The best way to view the Grand The gondola has been a part of Venice since the 11th century. With
Canal as it winds through the its slim hull and flat underside, the craft is perfectly adapted to
heart of the city is from a negotiating narrow, shallow canals. There is a slight leftward curve
vaporetto, or water bus. Several to the prow, which counteracts the force of the oar, preventing
lines travel the length of the the gondola from going
canal. The palaces lining the around in circles.
waterway were built over a In 1562, it was decreed
span of five centuries and that all gondolas should
present a panoramic survey be black to stop people
of the city’s history, almost all making an ostentatious
bearing the name of some show of their wealth. For
once-great Venetian family. special occasions they
Nearly 4 km (2.5 miles) long, were decorated with
flowers. Today, gondola
the canal varies in width from
rides are expensive and
30 to 70 m (100 to 230 ft) and usually taken by tourists.
is spanned by three bridges, Gondolas moored in a Venice canal
the Scalzi, the Rialto, and the
8 Scuola di San
Giorgio degli
Schiavoni
Calle Furlani. Tel 041-522 88 28. 4 San
Zaccaria. Open daily. Closed Mon am,
Sun pm. &
Within this small Scuola,

established in 1451 and rebuilt The single-story palazzo housing the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
in 1551, are some of the finest
paintings of Vittore Carpaccio Construction of the church, 0 Peggy
(c.1460–1525). Commissioned begun in 1630 by Baldassare
by the Schiavoni, or Dalmatian Longhena, was not completed
Guggenheim
Slav trading community in until 1687, five years after Collection
Venice, Carpaccio’s exquisite his death. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Tel 041-240
frieze (1502–08) shows scenes The comparatively sober 54 11. 4 Accademia. Open Wed–
from the lives of three saints: interior of Santa Maria della Mon. Closed Dec 25. & 8 (audio).
St. George, St. Tryphon, and Salute consists of a large = - ∑ guggenheim-venice.it
St. Jerome. Each episode of the octagonal space below the
narrative cycle is remarkable for cupola and six chapels Intended as a four-story palace,
its vivid coloring and minutely radiating from the ambulatory. the 18th-century, Palazzo Venier
observed detail of Venetian life. The sculptural group around dei Leoni in fact never rose
St. George Slaying the Dragon the grandiose high altar is beyond the ground floor –
and The Vision of St. Jerome are by Giusto Le Corte and hence its nickname “The
both outstanding. represents the Virgin and Unfinished Palace.” In 1949, the
Child protecting the city of building was bought by Peggy
Venice from the plague. Guggenheim (1898–1979), an
9 Santa Maria della
In the sacristy to the left of American collector, dealer, and
Salute the altar, Titian’s early altarpiece patron of the arts. One of the
Campo della Salute. Tel 041-241 00 18. St. Mark Enthroned with St. Cosmas, most visited sights of Venice,
4 Salute. Open daily. & to sacristy. St. Damian, St. Roch and St. the palace is the best place in
Sebastian (1511–12) and his the city to see modern art. The
The great Baroque church of dramatic ceiling paintings light-filled rooms and modern
Santa Maria della Salute, of David and Goliath, Cain and canvases are in striking contrast
standing at the entrance of the Abel, and The Sacrifice of Isaac to the majority of the art on
Grand Canal, is an imposing (1540–9) are considered the display in Venice.
architectural landmark of Venice. finest paintings in the church. Her collection consists of 200
The Wedding at fine paintings and sculptures,
Cana (1551) on representing the 20th century’s
the wall opposite most influential modern art
the entrance, is movements. The dining room
a major work by has notable Cubist works of art,
Jacopo Tintoretto. including The Poet by Pablo
The church Picasso, and an entire room is
was named Salute, devoted to Jackson Pollock,
which means who was “discovered” by
both “health” and Guggenheim. There are also
“salvation,” in works by Braque, Chagall, Dalí,
thanksgiving for the Klee, Mondrian, and Magritte,
deliverance of the whose Surreal Empire of Light
city from the plague (1953–4) shows a night scene
epidemic of 1630. of a darkened house with bright
Each November, in a daylight above.
moving ceremony The sculpture collection,
of remembrance, which includes Constantin
worshipers light Brancusi’s elegant Bird in Space
candles and (c.1923), is laid out in the house
approach the and the garden.
church across a Perhaps the most provocative
bridge of boats piece, on the canal terrace, is
which spans the Marino Marini’s Angelo della Città
The Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute, viewed from mouth of the (1948). It shows a man sitting on
the other side of the Grand Canal Grand Canal. a horse, erect in all respects.
VENICE  423
q Accademia
Campo della Carità. Tel 041-520 03 45
(bookings). 4 Accademia. Open
daily (Mon: am only). Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Dec 25. & 8 (audio). =
∑ gallerieaccademia.org
Spanning five centuries,

the matchless collection of
paintings in the Accademia
provides a complete spectrum
of the Venetian school, from
the Byzantine period through
the Renaissance to the Baroque The colonnaded apse of Murano’s Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato
and later.
Housed in three former the atmospheric Tempest Murano was the principal glass-
religious buildings, the basis (c.1507). Among Renaissance producing center in Europe,
of the collection was the works on display are Feast in the and today most tourists visit
Accademia di Belle Arti, founded House of Levi (1573) by Veronese, to tour the furnaces and buy
in 1750 by the painter Giovanni and The Miracle of the Slave traditionally designed glass from
Battista Piazzetta. In 1807, (1548), which made the the manufacturers’ showrooms.
Napoleon moved the academy reputation of Jacopo Tintoretto. The Museo del Vetro in the
to its present premises, greatly The long gallery of Baroque, Palazzo Giustinian houses a fine
enlarging the collection with genre, and landscape paintings collection of antique pieces. The
artworks from churches and alongside Palladio’s inner prize exhibit is the dark blue
monasteries he suppressed. courtyard (1561) features works wedding cup (1470–80) with
The gallery is currently being by Giambattista Tiepolo, the enamel work by Angelo Barovier.
enlarged and some rooms may greatest Venetian painter of The architectural highlight of
be closed. the 18th century, and a view the island is the 12th-century
A highlight of the Byzantine of Venice (1763) by Canaletto. Basilica dei Santi Maria e
and Gothic section is Paolo Rooms 20 and 21 contain two Donato with its lovely
Veneziano’s Coronation of the cycles of paintings portraying colonnaded apse. Of particular
Virgin (1325), which contrasts Venetian settings: The Stories note are the Gothic ship’s-keel
with the delicate naturalism of the Cross, and Scenes from roof, the mosaic Madonna in
of Giambono’s painting of the the Legend of St. Ursula, painted the apse, and the beautiful
same name (1448). by Carpaccio (1490s). medieval mosaic floor, which
The Bellini family played a dates from 1140.
dominant role in the early
Venetian Renaissance, and w Murano E Museo del Vetro
outstanding examples of their 4 LN, 41 and 42 from Fondamenta Fondamenta Giustinian 8. Tel 041-73
work include Giovanni Bellini’s Nuove; DM from Ferrovia and 95 86. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May
Madonna and Child between Piazzale Roma. 1, Dec 25. & = ∑ museovetro.
St. John the Baptist and a Saint visitmuve.it
(c.1504), and other paintings Like the city of Venice, Murano R Basilica dei Santi Maria
of his Madonna collection consists of a cluster of small e Donato
in room 13. One of Bellini’s islands, connected by bridges. Campo San Donato. Tel 041-73 90 56.
students, Giorgione, painted In the 15th and 16th centuries, Open daily (Sun: pm only).
Veronese’s painting of Christ’s Last Supper, retitled The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), in the Accademia
a Ferrara chapels open off the

* 140,000. £ @ n Castello
nave of the Gothic
Estense, Piazza Castello (0532-20 93 70). interior, many with
( Mon & Fri. ∑ ferrarainfo.com fine works of art.
San Domenico is
The d’Este dynasty has left an the most important
indelible mark on Ferrara, one of Italy’s many
of the Emilia-Romagna region’s Dominican churches,
greatest walled towns. The housing, as it does,
noble family took control of the the tomb of
town under Nicolò II in the late St. Dominic himself.
13th century, holding power A magnificent
until 1598. Castello Estense, the composite work, the
family’s dynastic seat, with its tomb features statues
moats, towers, and battlements, and reliefs by Nicola
looms over the town center. Pisano, while the
Bronze statues of Nicolò III figures of angels and
and Borso d’Este, one of Nicolò’s saints are early works
reputed 27 children, adorn the by Michelangelo. The
medieval Palazzo del Comune. Torri degli Asinelli e
The d’Este summer retreat was Flagged medieval street with shady, arcaded buildings, Garisenda are
the Palazzo Schifanoia. Begun typical of central Bologna among the few
in 1385, it is famous for its Salone surviving towers of
dei Mesi, whose walls are s Bologna the 200 that once formed the
covered with murals by Cosmè * 385,000. k Marconi 9 km skyline of Bologna. Both were
Tura and other Ferrarese painters. (5 miles) NW. £ @ n Piazza begun in the 12th century.
Access is limited due to damage Maggiore 1/e (051-23 96 60). ( Fri & The Garisenda tower (closed
from the 2012 earthquake. Sat. _ Bologna Estate (Jun–Sep). to the public) leans some 3 m
Ferrara’s cathedral has an (10 ft), while the Asinelli tower
excellent museum, which Capital of Emilia-Romagna and has a 500-step ascent and offers
contains marble reliefs of the one of Italy’s most prosperous fine views.
Labours of the Months (late 12th cities, Bologna has a rich The Romanesque-Gothic
century), two painted organ cultural heritage, ranging from church of San Giacomo
shutters (1469) of St. George and medieval palaces and churches Maggiore, begun in 1267 but
the Annunciation by Tura, and to leaning towers. altered substantially since, is
the Madonna of the Pomegranate Celebrated in the Middle Ages visited mainly for the superb
(1408) by Sienese sculptor Jacopo for its university – believed to be Bentivoglio family chapel,
della Quercia (c.1374–1438). the oldest in Europe – Bologna decorated with frescoes by
came under papal rule in 1506 Lorenzo Costa (1460–1535).
+ Castello Estense and a large part of the city was The Bentivoglio tomb is among
Piazza Castello. Tel 0532-29 92 33. given over to monasteries and the last works of Jacopo
Open Tue–Sun (Mar–Jun & Sep: daily). convents. After the arrival of della Quercia.
Closed Dec 25. & 7 Napoleon’s occupying force in Bologna’s main art gallery, the
P Palazzo Schifanoia 1797, the university was moved Pinacoteca Nazionale, stands
Via Scandiana 23. Tel 0532-24 49 49. from its Catholic cradle in the on the edge of the university
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & Archiginnasio to a science district. Its two highlights are
building where Marconi later Perugino’s Madonna in Glory
studied. After unification the (c.1491) and Raphael’s famous
old city walls were demolished Ecstasy of St. Cecilia, painted
and an era of prosperity was around 1515.
ushered in. The cuisine of Bologna is
The two central squares of the among the finest in Italy. To
city, Piazza Maggiore and Piazza try the famous Bolognese
del Nettuno, are bordered to meat sauce you should order
the south by the churches of tagliatelle al ragù.
San Petronio and San Domenico.
The former ranks among the P Torri degli Asinelli e Garisenda
greatest of Italy’s brick-built Piazza di Porta Ravegnana.
medieval buildings. Founded Open daily. &
in 1390, its construction was E Pinacoteca Nazionale
halted halfway due to financial Via delle Belle Arti 56. Tel 051-420 94
constraints, and the planned 11. Open Tue–Sun. Closed May 1,
The medieval Castello Estense and central row of columns became Aug 16. & 7 ∑ pinacoteca
surrounding moat in Ferrara the eastern flank. Twenty-two bologna.beniculturali.it

I TA LY  425
d Ravenna f Urbino
* 140,000. £ @ n Via Salara * 16,000. @ n Piazza
8–12 (0544-357 55). ( Wed & Sat. Rinascimento 1 (0722-26 13). ( Sat.
∑ turismo.ravenna.it
Urbino traces its origins to
Ravenna rose to power in the the Umbrians, centuries before
1st century BC when Emperor Christ, and became a Roman
Augustus built a port and naval municipality in the 3rd century
base nearby, but gained further BC. The city’s zenith, however,
prominence after becoming the came in the 15th century under
administrative capital of the the rule of the philosopher-
Byzantine Empire in AD 402. warrior Federico da Montefeltro,
Most people visit the city for its who commissioned the building
superb early Christian mosaics. of the Palazzo Ducale in 1444.
Spanning the years of Roman This beautiful Renaissance
and Byzantine rule, they can be palace has an extensive library,
seen in many of Ravenna’s 5th- Apse of San Vitale, Ravenna, showing hanging gardens, and numerous
and 6th-century buildings. In 6th-century mosaics fine paintings. Two great
the church of San Vitale, apse 15th-century works, The
mosaics (526–547) show the 20 years after the death of her Flagellation by Piero della
saint being handed a martyr’s husband, the Visigothic King Francesca, and Ideal City
crown. Another mosaic depicts Altauf. The 6th-century church attributed to Luciano Laurana,
Emperor Justinian, who ruled of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is are notable for their use
from 527 to 565. Next door, the dominated by two rows of of perspective.
tiny Mausoleo di Galla Placidia mosaics which depict pro- Of special interest in the
is adorned with a mosaic of The cessions of martyrs and virgins Neo-Classical Duomo, built
Good Shepherd. Galla Placidia bearing gifts. in 1789, is the painting of
ran the Western Empire for Travelers in Ravenna can also the Last Supper by Federico
visit Dante’s Tomb – the great Barocci (c.1535–1612). The
writer died here in 1321 – and Museo Diocesano contains a
Byzantine Italy the Museo Nazionale, which collection of ceramics, glass,
By the 5th century AD, the houses icons, paintings, and and religious artifacts.
Roman Empire was split into archaeological displays. The best The Casa Natale di Raffaello,
two. Rome and the Western place to relax and take a break home of Urbino’s famous son,
Empire could not stem the tide from sightseeing is among the the painter Raphael (1483–
of Germanic invaders as lovely ensemble of medieval 1520), is also open to visitors.
they migrated buildings in the Piazza del Popolo.
southwards and P Palazzo Ducale
Italy fell to the R San Vitale & Mausoleo di Piazza Duca Federico 13. Tel 0722-32
Goths. In the years Galla Placidia 26 25. Open 8:30am–7:15pm Tue–
after 535 AD, Via Fiandrini. Tel 0544-54 16 88. Open Sun, 8:30am–2pm Mon. Closed Jan 1,
however, the daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. & 7 Dec 25. & = 7
Eastern
R Sant’Apollinare Nuovo P Casa Natale di Raffaello
Empire
Via di Roma. Tel 0544-54 16 88. Via di Raffaello 57. Tel 0722-32 01 05.
reconquered
Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Open daily (Nov–Feb: am only).
most of Italy.
&7 Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. &
Its stronghold,
Ravenna,
became the
richest, most
powerful Italian
city. Most of the
peninsula was
subsequently
lost to the
Lombards who
invaded in 564,
but Ravenna,
Byzantine protected by
Emperor marshes and
Justinian lagoons, was
able to hold out
until 752 when the Lombard
King Aistulf finally recaptured
the city.
The Palazzo Ducale, rising above the rooftops of Urbino
palace of Castel Nuovo, built

for Charles of Anjou in 1279–82.
Another star sight, the Palazzo
Reale was designed for the
viceroy Ruiz de Castro, and has
a superb library, richly adorned
royal apartments, and a court
theater. Begun in 1600, the
palace was not completed
until 1843.
The Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte, once a hunting
lodge, now houses the Museo
di Capodimonte, with its
magnificent collection of Italian
paintings, including works by
Titian, Botticelli, and Raphael.
View across the Bay of Naples to the slopes of Mount Vesuvius This part of Naples is also
known for its “Spanish Quarter,”
g Naples have left Naples with a rich store or Quartieri Spagnoli, a
* 1,100,000. k Capodichino of ancient ruins, churches, and neighborhood of narrow,
4 km (2.5 miles) NW. g £ @ palaces, many of which can be cobbled alleys often used to
n Piazza del Gesù (081-551 27 01). seen in the compact center of represent the archetypal
( daily. _ Maggio dei Monumenti the old city. The Museo Neapolitan street scene.
(May), San Gennaro (Sep 19). Archeologico Nazionale
holds treasures from Environs
The chaotic yet spectacular Pompeii and A trip by funicular
city of Naples (Napoli) Herculaneum, railway up Vomero
sprawls around the edge of including a bust hill brings you to
a beautiful bay in the shadow of Seneca, fine the Certosa di San
of Mount Vesuvius. glassware, frescoes, Martino. This
Originally a Greek city named mosaics, and the 14th-century
Neapolis, founded in 600 BC, fabulous Farnese charterhouse has
Naples became an “allied city” of Classical sculptures. been lavishly
Rome two centuries later. It has Nearby, the church redecorated over
since had many foreign rulers. of San Giovanni a the centuries. The
The French House of Anjou Carbonara houses some Church and the
controled Naples between 1266 glorious medieval works Prior’s Residence
and 1421, when power passed of art, such as the tomb are particularly
to Alfonso V of Aragón. A colony of King Ladislas of impressive. Just
of Spain by 1503, in 1707 Naples Naples (1386–1414). behind the
was ceded to Austria, and in The French Gothic Certosa lies
1734 Charles III of Bourbon took Duomo holds the Farnese Hercules, Museo the Castel Sant
over. In 1860, Naples became relics of San Gennaro, Archeologico Nazionale Elmo, which
part of the new kingdom of Italy. martyred in 305 AD. offers fine views.
The centuries of occupation Next to it is one of Italy’s finest Boat excursions can be taken
Renaissance gateways, the Porta along the Posillipo coast, and to
Capuana, completed in 1490. the islands of Capri, Ischia, and
Also worth visiting, the Procida. Inland, Caserta has its
Monte della Misericordia, own Palazzo Reale, which
a 17th-century octagonal boasts over 1,000 sumptuously
church, houses Caravaggio’s decorated rooms. The town of
huge Seven Acts of Mercy (1607). Santa Maria Capua Vetere has
Central Naples is particularly a Roman amphitheater and
rich in 14th- and 15th-century a Mithraeum.
churches. San Domenico
Maggiore contains some fine E Museo Archeologico
Renaissance sculpture while Nazionale
Santa Chiara houses the tombs Piazza Museo Nazionale 19. Tel 081-44
of the Angevin monarchs and a 22 149. q Museo. Open Thu–Wed.
museum whose exhibits include Closed May 1, Dec 25. &
the ruins of a Roman bathhouse. E Museo di Capodimonte
Tomb of King Ladislas of Naples in San Southeast Naples is home to Parco di Capodimonte. Tel 081-749 91
Giovanni a Carbonara the city’s castles and the royal 11. Open Thu–Tue. & 7

I TA LY  427
A breathtaking view of the steep village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast
h Pompeii not prudish – graphic frescoes are dining on locally caught

Porta Marina. Tel 081-857 53 47. £ reveal the services offered by grilled fish and sipping icy
@ Open daily. Closed Jan 1, May 1, male and female prostitutes in Lacrima Christi from Vesuvian
Dec 25. & 7 8 the lupanares, or brothels. vineyards, interspersed with
Many works of art, domestic beach-hopping.
Ancient Pompeii, destroyed items, and other artifacts were From Sorrento, a well-
in AD 79 by an eruption of preserved by the mud and ash developed holiday resort, the
Vesuvius, lay buried under rock are on permanent display in road winds down to Positano,
and ash until the 18th century. the Museo Archeologico a village clambering down a
When excavations began in Nazionale in Naples. vertiginous slope to the sea.
1748, a city frozen in time was Further on, Praiano is another
revealed. Many buildings fashionable resort.
survived, some complete with j Amalfi Coast Amalfi – the coast’s largest
paintings and sculptures. The g @ Amalfi. n Via delle town – was a maritime power
villa of the wealthy patrician Repubbliche Marinare 19–21, before it was subdued in 1131
Casii is known as House of the Amalfi (089-87 11 07). by King Roger of Naples. Its
Faun after its bronze statuette. most illustrious citizens were
The House of the Vettii, named The most enchanting and most buried in the 13th-century
after its owners, contains rich visited route in Campania skirts Chiostro del Paradiso, flanking
wall decorations. the southern flank of Sorrento’s the 9th-century Duomo.
The original layout of the peninsula: the Amalfi Coast Above Amalfi, Ravello offers
city can be clearly seen. The (Costiera Amalfitana). Among peace and quiet and superb
Forum was the center of public the popular pleasures here views of the coast.
life, with administrative and
religious institutions grouped
around it. Theaters, the
marketplace, temples, stores,
and even brothels can be
visited. Around 2,000 people
died at Pompeii and casts of
numerous recumbent figures
have been made.
Much of our knowledge of
the daily lives of the ancient
Romans has been derived from
the excavations at Pompeii and
nearby Herculaneum. The baths
were divided into separate
sections for men and women,
but the citizens of Pompeii were Sacrarium of the Lares, shrine of Pompeii’s guardian deities
Sicily E Galleria Regionale di Sicilia

Via Alloro 4. Tel 091-623 00 11.
Open am daily, pm Tue–Thu. &
Located at a crossroads in the Mediterranean, Sicily was a
magnet for colonists and invaders from half the ancient P Palazzo Reale &
civilized world. As Greek, Arab, and Norman conquerors came Cappella Palatina
Piazza Indipendenza. Tel 091-626 28
and went, they left behind a rich and varied cultural heritage.
33. Open daily. &
This has evolved into a colorful mixture of language, customs,
and cuisine, and is reflected in the diverse art and architecture E Museo Regionale Salinas
of the island. Sicily has magnificent beaches, remote hilltowns, Piazza Olivella 24. Tel 091-611 68 06.
flower-covered mountain ranges, and an active volcano Open Tue–Sun (am only Sat, Sun &
whose lava flows over the centuries have created a fertile hols). &
land of walnut trees, citrus groves, and vineyards.
Environs
A few miles inland from
Palermo, the cathedral at
Monreale, founded in 1172,
is one of the great sights of
Norman Sicily. The glittering
mosaics and Saracenic-style
cloisters, represent Norman
artistry at its peak.
R Monreale
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. @ 8
Cloister: Tel 091-640 44 13. Open daily
(am only Sun & hols). & for treasury
& terrace.
Front facade of the Norman Duomo in Palermo l Taormina

Messina. * 10,000. £ @ n Palazzo
k Palermo di Sicilia, which has a fine Corvaja, Piazza Santa Caterina (0942
collection of sculptures, 232 43). ( Wed.
* 700,000. k Punta Raisi 32 km
medieval crucifixes, frescoes,
(20 miles) W. g £ @ n Via
Maqueda 81 (091-662 82 91). and paintings. Sicily’s most popular tourist
( Mon–Sat. _ U Festinu for On the Piazza della Vittoria resort has sandy beaches
Santa Rosalia (Jul 10–15). in South Palermo, the Palazzo and numerous restaurants.
Reale – a focus of power The most illustrious relic of
Capital of Sicily and situated since Byzantine rule – is now the past is the 3rd-century BC
along the bay at the foot of home to Sicily’s regional Theater, begun by the Greeks,
Monte Pellegrino, Palermo government. Its splendid and rebuilt by the Romans.
was originally called Panormos, Cappella Palatina is adorned Among other Classical ruins are
or “port” by the Phoenicians. with mosaics. The Duomo, the Odeon (a musical theater)
A prosperous Roman town, founded in 1184, has a Catalan and the Naumachia (a man-
Palermo’s golden age came Gothic portico (1430) and a made lake for mock battles).
later, while under Arab cupola in Baroque style. The 14th-century Palazzo
domination. The Baroque period The Museo Regionale Salinas Corvaia and the 13th-century
(17th–18th centuries) has also is considered one of Italy’s most Duomo, renovated in 1636,
left a lasting mark on the city’s important archaeology museums. are also worth visiting.
civic and religious buildings.
Palermo suffered heavy
bombardment by the Allies
in World War II, but, despite
chaotic rebuilding, the city
remains an exotic mix of the
oriental and the European.
The old Arab quarter can
be found in North Palermo,
typified by Vucciria, one of the
city’s lively markets. On Piazza
Marina, the focal point of North
Palermo, the Palazzo Abatellis
houses the Galleria Regionale Taormina’s Classical theater with Mount Etna in the background
I TA LY  429
Fishing boats moored in the picturesque harbor of Syracuse
z Mount Etna Admiral Nelson once stayed. and Normans. The historic
At Ortigia’s farthest point is medieval core of the city
Catania. £ to Linguaglossa or
Randazzo; Circumetnea (095-541 250).
the Castello Maniace, built focuses on the Via Atenea. The
@ to Nicolosi. n Via G Garibaldi 63, by Frederick II around 1239, 13th-century abbey complex of
Nicolosi (095-91 44 88). and the Galleria Regionale Santo Spirito houses stuccoes
di Palazzo Bellomo, where by Giacomo Serpotta (1695).
One of the world’s largest active Caravaggio’s Burial of St. Lucy
volcanoes, Mount Etna was (1608) may be seen. Environs
thought by the Romans to have One of the most important South of Agrigento, the Valley
been the forge of Vulcan, the examples of ancient theater of Temples is the principal
god of fire. To view it in comfort, architecture, the 5th-century BC sacred site of ancient Akragas.
take the Circumetnea railway, Greek Theater has a 67-tier The mainly 5th- and 6th-century
which runs around the base auditorium or cavea. The great ruins rank among the most
from Catania to Riposto. Greek playwrights staged their impressive complexes of ancient
Now a protected area, about works here. Greek buildings outside Greece.
58 sq km (22 sq miles) in At Tyche, north of Syracuse, Museo Regionale Archeologico
size, Etna offers numerous the Museo Archeologico houses outstanding artifacts
opportunities for excursions. Regionale Paolo Orsi houses an from the temples and the city.
One of the most popular is important collection of artifacts
from Zafferana to the Valle excavated from local digs, E Museo Regionale
del Bove. Guided hikes can which date from the Paleolithic Archeologico
also be taken up to the large to the Byzantine era. Contrada San Nicola, Viale Panoramica.
craters at the summit. Tel 0922-40 15 65. Open daily. &
E Galleria Regionale di
Palazzo Bellomo
x Syracuse Palazzo Bellomo, Via Capodieci 16.
Tel 0931-695 11. Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
* 118,000. g £ @ n Via Maes-
tranza 33 (0931-464 255). ( Wed. E Museo Archeologico
Regionale Paolo Orsi
The most important and Viale Teocrito 66. Tel 0931-46 40 22.
powerful Greek city from 400 Open Tue–Sat, Sun am.
to 211 BC when it fell to the
Romans, Syracuse (Siracusa in
Italian) was also regarded as c Agrigento
the most beautiful. * 57,000. g £ @ n Via
The peninsula of Ortigia Empedocle 73 (0922-203 91). ( Fri.
is the hub of the old city. A
highlight is the 18th-century Modern Agrigento occupies the
Duomo. Its Baroque facade site of Akragas, an important
masks the Temple of Athena city of the ancient Greeks.
(5th century BC), which has Following the Roman conquest
been absorbed into it. Nearby of 210 BC, Agrigento was
is the Palazzo Beneventano renamed and successively The Temple of Concord (c.430 BC) in the
del Bosco (1778–88) where occupied by Byzantines, Arabs, Valley of Temples, Agrigento

Citizens of the European Union
Italy’s charm and allure help to mask an idiosyncratic (EU), US, Canada, Australia, and
infrastructure in which delays and long lines are common. Be New Zealand do not require a
prepared to wait in offices and banks, and to persevere when visa for stays of up to three
months. Most European Union
seeking information. However, communications – other than
visitors need only a valid
the post office – are good, and banking and exchange facilities identity document to enter Italy.
are widely available. Italy is generally safe for visitors and there Citizens from other countries
is a visible police presence should a crisis arise. Personal belong should contact their Italian
ings should nevertheless be watched at all times. Many shops consulate for visa information.
and offices close at lunch for the siesta, reopening in the late
afternoon. Pharmacies are a useful first stop for health advice. Personal Security
Although petty crime in the
cities is frequent, violent crime
When to Visit deals exclusively with an in Italy is rare. However, it is
Italy’s towns and historic individual town. All can help common for people to raise
sites are extremely popular with hotel reservations and their voices aggressively during
attractions and it is worth local tour guides. They also an argument. Usually, remaining
considering this when planning provide free maps and guide- calm and being polite will help
your trip. Rome, Florence, and books in several languages. to defuse the situation.
Venice are all crowded from Unofficial tour guides, taxi
spring to October and it is drivers, or strangers who try to
advisable to reserve a hotel Opening Hours advise you on accommodations
well in advance. In August the Italian museums are gradually may expect money in return.
cities are generally slightly less conforming to new regulations, Women traveling alone in
busy, and the seaside resorts particularly in the north, opening Italy are likely to meet with a lot
fill up. June and September daily from about 9am to 7pm, of attention, although this is
can be as hot as midsummer, but some still close on Mondays. often more of an irritation than
but the beaches are less In summer, many museums stay a danger. Staff at hotels and
crowded. The skiing season open longer at weekends. In restaurants generally treat their
runs from December to Easter. winter, opening times are more single female customers with
limited. It is advisable to check extra care and attention.
beforehand. Archaeological
Tourist Information sites usually open from 9am to
The national tourist board, ENIT, an hour before sunset, Tuesday Police
has branches in capital cities to Sunday. Churches are open There are several different police
worldwide and offers general from about 7am to 12:30pm forces in Italy and each one
information on Italy. Locally, and 4 to 7pm, but they often fulfills a particular role. Both the
there are two types of tourist prefer not to admit tourists state police, the polizia and the
office: an EPT (Ente Provinciale di during services. carabinieri, deal with crime in
Turismo) has information on its Visits to some of the more general and they also conduct
town and surrounding province, popular tourist sights, such as random security checks. The
whereas an APT (Azienda di Leonardo da Vinci’s painting of vigili urbani, the municipal traffic
Promozione Turistica) or a PIT The Last Supper in Milan, must police, issue fines for traffic and
(Punto di Informazioni Turistiche) be organized in advance. parking offences. If you have
The Climate of Italy ROME VENICE

The Italian peninsula has a
varied climate falling into °C/ºF °C/ºF
three distinct geographical 29/84 28/82
regions. Cold Alpine winters 22/72
18/64 19/66 17/63
18/64 18/64
and warm, increasingly wet 13/55 12/54
9/48 9/48
summers characterize the 4/40
7/44 7/44
northern regions. In the 0/32
extensive Po Valley, arid 6 10 7 5 7 9 4 2
summers contrast with hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
freezing, damp winters. The 51 21 95 87 112 108 134 90
rest of Italy has long, and mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
often very hot, summers month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
and mild, sunny winters.
I TA LY  431
anything stolen, you should go traditional social formalities. and are usually open all day,
to the nearest police station and Ciao should only be used as and also into the evening
file a report (denuncia). a greeting for familiar friends, in resorts. However, they
otherwise piacere (pleased to quite often tend to have less
meet you), buon giorno (good favorable exchange rates and
Emergency Services day), or buona sera (good charge a higher commission
In case of emergencies while evening) are polite greetings. than banks. Post offices usually
on vacation, the appropriate Say arrivederci on parting. have the lowest charges.
numbers to call are listed in Kissing on the cheeks is
the directory below. common among friends, but
shake hands with strangers. Communications
Tipping of taxi drivers and Post offices open from about
Health Issues waiting staff in restaurants is 8am to 2pm weekdays, and
No inoculations are needed for not common practice among from 8am to noon on Saturday.
Italy, but it is advisable to carry Italians. However, when a service Main post offices are usually
mosquito repellent in the charge is added to a restaurant open from 8am to 6pm or 7pm
summer months. If emergency bill, it is non-negotiable. Hotel non-stop. The red mailboxes
medical treatment becomes porters expect a reasonable tip (blue in the Vatican City) usually
necessary, you should go to the if they have been helpful. have two slots labeled per la
Pronto Soccorso (emergency città (for the city only) and
room) of the nearest hospital. tutte le altre destinazioni (for
Various medical products, Facilities for the Disabled all other destinations). The
including homeopathic Public awareness of the needs Italian postal service was once
medicines, are available in any of the disabled is improving renowned for its unreliability,
pharmacy (farmacia), but a quickly in Italy. CO.IN.Sociale but has improved in recent
prescription may be required. (Consorzio Cooperative years. The standard mail service
Thanks to a night rota (servizio Integrate) provides information is called prioritaria.
notturno) – listed in the local on facilities for the disabled. The few public telephones
pages of daily newspapers and remaining are generally card-
on pharmacy doors – there is operated. A telephone card
always a pharmacy open in all Banking and Currency (scheda telefonica) can be
cities and most towns. Italy has used the euro since purchased from bars, newspaper
2002 (see p23). Banks open kiosks, post offices, and
between about 8:30am and tobacconists (tabacchi). A corner
Language and Etiquette 1:30pm Monday to Friday. of the card must be broken off
People in Italy are very dress- Most also open from 2:15 to before use. Alternatively, many
conscious and unusual or risqué 3pm or 2:30 to 3:30pm. towns have telephone offices
clothes get noticed. Strict dress Electronic exchange (Telefoni) with low rates for
codes are enforced in many machines, with multilingual long-distance calls. Here, you
places of worship, where your instructions, are located at all are assigned a booth and pay
torso, knees, and upper arms major airports, train stations, after calls are completed. Credit
should be covered. Forms of and banks. Bureaux de change cards can only be used to make
address are still governed by can be found in main towns, calls at major airports.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices ENIT UK Canada Emergency
Tel 020-7408 1254. Via Zara 30, Rome. Numbers
APT Florence ∑ italiantouristboard. Tel 06-854 44 39 37. General Emergency
Via Manzoni 16. co.uk
∑ canada.it Tel 113.
Tel 055-233 20. ENIT US
UK Medical Emergency
APT Milan Tel 212-245 5618.
∑ italiantourism.com Via XX Settembre 80, Tel 118.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Rome. Tel 06-42 20 00 01. Police (Carabinieri)
II. Tel 02-84 45 55 55. PIT Rome
Via Nazionale. ∑ gov.uk/government/ Tel 112.
APT Venice Tel 06-06 08. world/organisations/
Facilities for the
Castello 5050. british-embassy-rome
Embassies Disabled
Tel 041-523 59 13.
US
Australia CO.IN.Sociale
ENIT Rome Via A. Bosio 5, Rome.
Via Veneto 121, Rome. Via Enrico Giglioli 54A,
Via Marghera 2. Tel 06-85 27 21. Tel 06-467 41. Rome. Tel 06-712 9011.
Tel 06-497 11. ∑ enit.it ∑ italy.embassy.gov.au ∑ italy.usembassy.gov ∑ coinsociale.it
Travel Information enjoyable way to negotiate the

narrow streets of historic town
Italy has transportation systems of varying efficiency, from centers. Trams still run in some
the modern road, bus, and rail networks of the north to the cities such as Milan and Rome.
slower and more antiquated systems of the south. Numerous Taxis must be met at official
airlines operate flights to the country’s major airports. taxi stands or reserved by
telephone; in theory, you
Highways are good, but busy at weekends and peak periods, cannot hail a taxi in the street.
and delays are common at Alpine passes. Train travel is Most Italian cities and towns
inexpensive and services generally frequent, although they have a bus system which is
can be overcrowded during local holidays. The major Italian inexpensive, comprehensive,
cities have a number of transportation options and that most and as efficient as traffic will
allow. Bus stops are known as
suited to the tourist varies from place to place: the bus is
fermate, and buses (autobus)
more practical in Rome and the metro in Milan. usually run from about 6am to
midnight. Train stations are
Sicily, and the Amalfi Coast. invariably linked to the city
Flying to Italy Several firms organize fly-drive centers by shuttle buses. Tickets
Flight destinations and routes packages. In winter, ski (biglietti) must usually be bought
change frequently, but United packages to many Alpine before boarding the bus, and
Airlines, Delta, and American resorts are available. Specialty are available from kiosks, bars,
Airlines all operate regular walking, gastronomy, and art and tabacchi (tobacconists).
flights to Italy from the United tours are increasingly common. Buses are boarded via the front
States. Air Canada flies from and rear doors and exited via
several Canadian airports, and the central doors. Tickets are
Qantas has flights from various Domestic Flights validated by being punched
Australian airports to Rome. Alitalia, Air One, and Ryanair run in machines on board.
Alitalia offers regular services regular services between many
to the United States and Europe. Italian cities. Long-haul
It may be more convenient and passengers can transfer Getting Around Venice
less expensive for long-haul to domestic flights in Rome The water buses (vaporetti) are
passengers to take a budget and Milan. an entertaining form of public
flight to London, Frankfurt, Paris, As internal flights can be transportation in Venice,
or Amsterdam before continuing expensive, and busy at peak although most journeys within
their journey to Italy from there. periods, trains are a good the city can easily be covered
Meridiana also has direct flights alternative. Flights to airports on foot. The main route for the
to Italy from New York. in the north can be disrupted water buses is the Grand Canal.
Low-cost airlines easyJet by fog in the winter. They also link the city to the
and Ryanair offer flights from islands in the lagoon. Tickets
various UK airports to numerous can be purchased from kiosks
Italian destinations according Traveling in Cities at each stop, and the main
to the season. Milan and Rome both have routes run every 10 to 20
Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci a metro system known as la minutes until early evening.
(Fiumicino) and Milan’s metropolitana (metro for short). For general inquiries, contact
Malpensa are the key airports Rome’s network amounts to just the ACTV Information Office.
for long-haul flights into Italy. two lines – A and B – which Gondolas are a luxury form
Milan’s Linate airport handles converge at Stazione Termini, the of transportation. Sharing can
European flights. city’s central train station. Several make it cheaper. Before
stations are useful for key sights, boarding, agree on a price
but the system is designed for with the gondolier. Traghetti
Charters and commuters and carriages are (gondola ferries), on the other
Package Deals usually stiflingly hot in summer. hand, are an inexpensive,
Package holidays to Italy are A third metro line is under convenient way of crossing
usually less costly than traveling construction, with the first the Grand Canal.
independently, unless you are stretch open in 2014. For those with sufficient
on a tight budget and are Milan has three principal lines funds, the most practical means
prepared to make use of youth – MM1 (the red line), MM2 of traveling around Venice is
hostels and campsites. Rome, (green), and MM3 (yellow) – by water taxi. These motor-
Florence, and Venice are often that give easy access to the boats run from 16 water taxi
offered as separate or linked city’s main sights. ranks and can reach the airport
package deals, and many Cars are a liability in all city in 20 minutes. Extra charges are
operators have packages to centers and many have a large made for luggage, waiting,
Tuscany and Umbria, the limited-traffic zone. Walking is night service, and calling out
Lakes, the Riviera, Naples, usually the easiest and most a taxi.
I TA LY  433
Rail Travel Traveling by Bus pre-booked with firms that

The bulk of Italy’s rail network is Long-distance buses (pullman have branches in Italy. Local
an integrated partially privatized or corriere) operate between firms may be less expensive
system operated by the Ferrovie towns and can be less than the international firms.
dello Stato (FS). In addition, the expensive and more frequent Most airports have rental offices
railway company Italo operates than the trains. Tickets can be on site (see Directory below).
fast trains on the Milan–Rome– purchased on board, and Visitors from outside the EU
Naples line. Train journeys into services usually depart from need an international license,
Italy from other parts of Europe a town’s train station or main but in practice not all rental
wind through the Alps and are square. Buses in some areas may firms insist on this.
an exciting way to travel. Alta be run by several companies
Velocità (high-speed trains) and (see Directory below).
Eurostar require pre-booking of Ferry Services
seats. These and intercity (IC) Italy’s large number of off-shore
trains only stop at main stations Traveling by Road islands means that it has a well-
and require the payment of a A car is invaluable for touring developed network of ferries.
supplement (supplemento). the Italian countryside. Drivers Boats of various kinds also
Regionale trains make more stops should take into account operate on the Italian Lakes.
and require no supplement. high gas (benzina) prices, the Ferries depart for Sicily
The most useful pass for difficulty of parking in towns, from Naples and Reggio di
visitors is the Interrail One and the Italians’ often erratic Calabria. They also run from
Country, which gives unlimited approach to driving. Italy has the mainland and from Sicily
travel for 3–8 consecutive or a good network of highways, to surrounding islands and
non-consecutive days over a but most have tollbooths, archipelagoes, for example
one-month period, with special often leading to congestion. from Naples to Capri and
rates for those under 26. This Care should be taken at night Ischia. Boats for Sardinia leave
pass can be purchased at most when many traffic lights switch from Civitavecchia near
mainline stations and various to flashing amber. Car theft Rome, Livorno, and Genoa.
agencies outside Italy. It is is rife in Italy and valuables There are car ferry services from
available only to non-residents. should not be left unattended. Brindisi to Corfu and Patras in
Before traveling, all tickets Car rental (autonoleggio) is Greece. In summer, these
need to be validated in one expensive in Italy, and should ferries can get very crowded,
of the yellow machines found be organized beforehand so make sure you reserve well
on the platform. through fly-drive deals or in advance.
DIRECTORY
Airlines Delta Tel 041-24 24. Sita
Tel 02-38 59 10 87. ∑ actv.it Tel 800-37 37 60.
Air Canada Tel 800-221 1212 (US).
Tel 1-888 247 2262 ∑ delta.com Consorzio Motoscafi ∑ fsbusitalia.it
(Canada). Rialto (Water Taxis)
easyJet Tel 041-522 23 03. Car Rental
∑ aircanada.com ∑ easyjet.com
Air One Meridiana Rail Travel Avis
Tel 89-24 44. Tel 89 29 28. Tel 199-10 01 33.
Alta Velocità
Tel +39 (091) 255 10 47 ∑ meridiana.it
See Ferrovie dello Stato. ∑ avisautonoleggio.it
(from abroad). Qantas
∑ flyairone.it Tel 02-91 29 48 01. Eurostar Europcar
Tel 13 13 13 (Australia). ∑ raileurope.com (US). Tel 199-30 70 30.
Alitalia
∑ qantas.com ∑ eurostar.com (UK).
Tel 06-22 22. ∑ europcar.it
Tel 800-223 5730 (US). Ryanair Ferrovie dello Stato
∑ ryanair.com Hertz
Tel 08714 241 424 (UK). Tel 89-20 21.
∑ alitalia.com ∑ trenitalia.com Tel 199-11 22 11.
United Airlines
Tel 02-69 63 37 07. ∑ hertz.it
American Airlines Italo
Tel 1-800-864 83 31 (US).
Tel 199-257 300. Tel 06-0708. Maggiore
∑ united.com
Tel 800-433 7300 (US). ∑ italotreno.it Tel 199-15 11 20 (Rome).
∑ aa.com Getting Around Bus Companies ∑ maggiore.it
British Airways Venice
Tel 02-69 63 36 02. Cotral Sixt
ACTV Information
Tel 0844-493 0787 (UK). Office Tel 800-17 44 71 (Rome). Tel 06-65 21 11 (Rome).
∑ ba.com Piazzale Roma, Venice. ∑ cotralspa.it ∑ sixt.it
Shopping for which Italy is famous.

Stainless steel and copper
Italy is known for its quality designer goods, ranging from kitchenware is a favorite
chic clothing and sleek cars to stylish household items. There buy with visitors.
is a strong tradition of craftsmanship, often from family-run
businesses, and there are numerous markets selling regional Regional Crafts
specialties. Apart from the town markets, it is not a country Traditional crafts are still
for bargains, but the joys of window-shopping will offer practised in Italy and range from
plenty of compensation. delicate lacework and glassware
in Venice to leatherwork,
jewelry, and marbled paper in
Opening Hours Jewelry Florence. Elaborate Tuscan
Opening times for shops are Glitzy gold jewelry is very popular pottery, hand-painted dishes
usually 9:30am–1pm, and 3:30 in Italy and every gioielleria from around Amalfi, and De
or 5–8pm. In many places, (jewelry shop) will offer a wide Simone’s stylized designer
stores are traditionally closed selection of items. Elegant, classic plates from Sicily are among
on Monday mornings, but jewelry can be purchased at Cusi many ceramic styles available.
shopkeepers are increasingly in Milan, while Venice’s smartest Among the best craft work-
working more flexible hours. jewelers are Missiaglia and Nardi shops in Rome is Spazio
in Piazza San Marco. Bulgari, Artigiano, which specializes in
known for its beautiful jewelry original, handmade wood, glass,
Department Stores and watches, has a number of and terra-cotta items. Naples’
Department stores are often retail outlets, as does Buccellati, Il Cantuccio della Ceramica is
open without a lunchbreak famous for its delicately engraved the place to go for ceramics.
(orario continuato) from 9am designs inspired by the Italian In Venice, the best place to
until 8pm Monday to Saturday. Renaissance. For reasonably buy local blue- and claret-
La Rinascente stores are good priced jewelry try Gioie in Rome. colored glass is the island
for ready-to-wear clothes, Naples has several jewelers’, and of Murano. Here, Barovier e
haberdashery, and perfumes. goldsmiths’ shops where Toso produces original designs.
traditional engraving and cameo Some of the most expensive
work can still be seen. Unusual glass in Venice can be bought
Designer Fashion and original items can often be from Venini. Carnival masks,
Italy is famous worldwide for found in artisan shops (oreficeria). available from Tragicomica,
its fashion industry. Milan, its and traditional Burano lace
designer capital, is stormed each are also popular buys.
year by Italians and foreigners Accessories The Etruscan art of working
alike in search of the latest cat- Stylish Italian leather shoes and alabaster is best seen in Volterra.
walk novelty. Giò Moretti, in Via handbags have an international Handmade perfumes and
della Spiga, features articles by market, and are a popular toiletries, and hand-painted
the top names, as well as pieces purchase of visitors to all parts majolica are favorite purchases
by up-and-coming designers. of the country. Ferragamo, the in Tuscany. Sicily is well known
Retail outlets of famous well-known Italian designer, has for its ceramics, and for
designers can be found in most stores in most Italian cities, traditional puppets. The latter,
Italian city centers. In Venice, offering elegant, classic shoes. now rare, can still be found in
Armani and others have stylish Leather bags and luggage are antique shops.
shops just off the Piazza San available at La Valigeria, and
Marco. Rome’s most famous Mandarina Duck bags are sold
designer is Valentino. His and in boutiques throughout Italy. Gourmet Foods
other top fashion names Ottica Nuova di Malizia Many of Italy’s regional food
dominate Rome’s Via Condotti, Michela sells trendy sunglasses, specialties are world-famous:
Via de’ Tornabuoni in Florence, and Borsalino is the place for Parma ham, Chianti wine, olive
and the Chiaia district of Naples. top-quality classic hats. oil, and grappa. Regional sweets,
One-off pieces by local including Sienese panforte and
designers can also be found. Sicilian marzipan, are also well-
Clothing Stores In Naples, Marinella has a known, as are cheeses such as
Less expensive clothes are store selling her famous ties Gorgonzola from Lombardy and
available in high-street stores, worn by many celebrities. Parmesan from Emilia-Romagna.
where styles tend to be more Other delicacies include truffles
conventional or classical. Sales from Piedmont and Umbria. The
(saldi), are held during summer Household Items Lombardy region produces the
and winter. The rare second- Household stores in cities and famous panettone cake, and
hand shops may seem pricey, towns throughout the country amaretto biscuits are made in the
but the quality of clothes is good. sell the well-designed utensils Veneto. Vesuvio chocolate with
I TA LY  435
rum from Naples is also the fruttivendolo. You can buy at about 1:30pm. Bargaining
delicious. To make the most of cakes at the pasticceria, milk at is not usual when buying
Italian food, try to buy what is in the latteria, and pasta, ham, and food, but it is worth asking
season. Mushrooms and grapes cheese at the well-stocked for a discount (sconto) for
are best in the fall, whereas alimentari and delicatessens. clothes and other items.
spring is the season for asparagus, To buy wine, head for the Larger markets have stands
strawberries, and artichokes. In enoteca, vineria, or vinaio, where piled high with secondhand
winter, cauliflower and broccoli you can sometimes taste the clothes, and many markets sell
are at their best, as are lemons products first. Italy is a major fake Ray-Ban sunglasses, Lacoste
from Amalfi and Sicilian blood wine producer and stores stock T-shirts, and Levi’s jeans. Popular
oranges. Summer is the time a wide range of labels, from the gifts from Italy include the
for plums, pears, and cherries, prized Barolo and Barbaresco ceramics and wooden kitchen
as well as zucchini, eggplant, vintages to the inexpensive but items sold in most markets.
tomatoes, and melon. palatable local vino da tavola. Specialty markets can be
found in many cities. Milan’s
antique market, the Mercatone
Food Stores Markets dell’Antiquariato, is held on
Specialty stores are the most All Italian towns have at least the last Sunday of the month,
interesting way to shop for food one market a week. Large and the Via Sannio and Porta
in Italy. A fornaio has the best towns have small, daily markets Portese markets of Rome are
bread and a macellaio has the in addition to a weekly flea a mecca for secondhand
finest meat (go to a norcineria for market, usually held on a clothes. The fish market by
pork products). Vegetables are Sunday. Traders set up early the Rialto Bridge in Venice is
freshest from market stands or and usually start to clear away an interesting place to visit.
DIRECTORY
Department Valentino Missiaglia Ottica Nuova di
Stores Via Montenapoleone 20, Procuratie Vecchie, Piazza Malizia Michela
Milan. Tel 02-276 006 182. San Marco 125, Venice. Via P. Rossi 38, Milan.
La Rinascente Tel 041-522 44 64.
Via dei Tosinghi 52r, Tel 02-648 03 10.
Galleria Alberto Sordi,
Florence. Nardi La Valigeria
Piazza Colonna, Rome.
Tel 055-29 31 42. Procuratie Nuove, Piazza
Tel 06-678 42 09. Via Cesare Baronio 18,
San Marco 69, Venice.
Piazza Fiume, Rome. Jewelry Rome. Tel 06-788 67 54.
Tel 041-522 57 33.
Tel 06-884 12 31.
Buccellati Accessories Regional Crafts
Piazza della Repubblica 1,
Mercerie dell’Orologio
Florence. Barovier e Toso
Borsalino
214, Venice.
Tel 055-21 91 13. Piazza del Popolo 20, Fondamenta Vetrai 28,
Tel 041-522 65 49.
Piazza Duomo, Milan. Rome. Tel 06-32 65 08 38. Murano. Tel 041-73 90 49.
Lungarno Acciaiuoli 3/5,
Tel 02-885 21. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
Florence. Il Cantuccio della
II 92, Milan.
Designer Fashion Tel 055-21 55 02. Ceramica
Tel 02-890 15 436.
Via Montenapoleone 23, Via Benedetto Croce 38,
Armani Ferragamo
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 21 54. Naples. Tel 081-552 58 57.
Via Condotti 79, Rome. Via Condotti 65, Rome.
Tel 06-699 14 61. Bulgari Tel 06-678 11 30. Spazio Artigiano
Via Condotti 10, Rome. Via de’ Tornabuoni 16r, Vicolo dei Serpenti 13,
Via de Tornabuoni 48r,
Tel 06-69 62 61. Florence. Rome. Tel 06-47 82 48 60.
Florence.
Tel 055-29 21 23.
Tel 055-21 90 41. Via Monte Napoleone, Tragicomica
Via Montenapoleone 3,
Via Monte Napoleone 2, Milan. Tel 02-77 70 01. Calle dei Nomboli,
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 00 54.
Milan. Tel 02-76 00 32 34. Cusi San Polo 2800, Venice.
Mandarina Duck
Galleria Cavour, 7/ABCDE, Corso Monforte 23, Milan. Tel 041-72 11 02.
Via dei due Macelli 59,
Naples. Tel 051-238 19. Tel 02-76 28 12 93. Rome. Tel 06-67 86 414. Venini
Giò Moretti Gioie Marinella Piazzetta dei Leoncini,
Via della Spiga 4, Milan. Via di Grotta Rossa 126A, Riviera di Chiaia 287A, San Marco 314, Venice.
Tel 02-76 00 31 86. Rome. Tel 06-33 26 03 51. Naples. Tel 081-245 11 82. Tel 041-522 40 45.
Entertainment outdoor concert venues. The

1st-century Teatro Romano
With world-class sporting and a host of cultural events, Italy (see pp412–13) in Verona also
has something to offer everyone. The cities boast a varied stages open-air concerts.
and lively nightlife, while its Riviera resorts, hill villages, and
classical sites are ideal for the avid sightseer or walker. Skiing Opera
in the Alps, water sports of all kinds on the coast, and pony Opera is one of the great cultural
trekking in the countryside, are tourist favorites. The open-air delights of Italy, whether experi-
theater and music performances in summer are world- enced in the magnificent opera
famous. Or simply join the Italians in their traditional houses of La Scala in Milan or
evening stroll, the passeggiata, followed by a drink at Venice’s Teatro La Fenice, or in a
spectacular open-air venue like
a bar or café in a picturesque piazza.
Verona’s superb Arena. The opera
house of Naples, San Carlo, also
boasts world-class performers.
Entertainment Listings Tickets for popular music Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera has a
Information about what’s on in concerts are normally sold late winter season and an open-
Rome can be found in Trovaroma, through record and music air summer festival in the Terme
the weekly Thursday supplement shops, whose names are di Caracalla archaeological park.
to the La Repubblica newspaper. displayed on the publicity The opera season at the
Where Rome magazine, available material distributed. Verona Arena runs from the first
for free in hotels, has up-to-date Whereas tickets for classical week in July until the beginning
entertainment listings. concerts are sold on the spot of September, and every year
In Florence, the monthly for same-day performances, features a lavish production of
magazine Firenze Spettacolo has opera tickets are purchased Verdi’s Aida.
restaurant and café guides, as months in advance. Prices vary
well as details of concerts, significantly according to the
exhibitions, and sporting events. artists scheduled to perform Clubs and Discos
Milano Mese is a free brochure and the type of venue. Cities and resorts in Italy are
listing concerts and other packed with trendy discos, and
cultural events held in and upscale night-clubs. Gilda, with
around the city. Entertainment Venues its two elegant restaurants and
Un Ospite di Venezia (A Guest Rome’s city churches and the large dancefloor, is a favorite
in Venice), produced by the Parco della Musica are favorite with Rome’s jet set. A younger
Hotels’ Association, comes venues for classical music lovers. crowd frequents Goa. In the
out fortnightly in summer Venice also makes good use of summer months, the nightlife
and monthly in winter and its most magnificent churches shifts to the Roman seaside
is free. as concert halls. La Pietà was resort of Fregene.
If you can read Italian, Vivaldi’s own church and is Currently attracting the
regional newspapers are also still used for classical music fashion crowd of Milan is the
a good source of information performances. In Milan, by Hollywood club. Venice’s
about current events. Local contrast, the San Siro football historic casino Casinò di
tourist offices display posters stadium is often used as a Venezia draws well-dressed
advertising forthcoming events. concert venue along with gamblers from far and wide.
the 5,400-capacity Pala AJ. There are a number of discos
at Mestre on the mainland.
Tickets
Making advance reservations Open-Air Venues
for concerts is not the custom During the summer, Italy’s Italian Festivals
in Italy, where decisions are historic buildings and classical The distinctive regionalism
often made on the spur of ruins become dramatic settings which has survived in modern
the moment. To guarantee a for open-air events. Concerts Italy is marked by the diverse
seat you may have to visit the are held in the grounds of local festivals celebrated each
box office in person, although Rome’s Villa Celimontana and year. For example, on April 25,
online agencies such as Villa Ada, while Greek and Venetians commemorate St.
Ticketone (www.ticketone.it) Roman plays are staged in Mark with a gondola race, and
and Listicket (www.listicket.it) the restored theater of Ostia on June 24, Florence relives its
sell tickets for many events. Antica, southwest of Rome. past with a procession of people
You may have to pay an In Venice the gardens of the in 16th-century costumes. The
advance booking supplement, Baroque palace, Ca’Rezzonico, Sienese celebrate the Palio – a
or prevendita, which is and the ornate, enclosed bareback horse race dating from
generally about 10 percent courtyard of the Doge’s Palace 1283 – on July 2 and August 16
of the ticket price. (see pp418–19) are used as each year. Traditional dress is
I TA LY  437
worn in the processions and Tasting Places, for example, trips are run by the Italian
pre-race pageants. Other festas organizes wine tours and week- Birds Protection League
celebrate the harvesting of local long courses in Italian cuisine. (LIPU). Cyclists will find miles
produce: the wine festivals held The course locations include of flat and scenic cycling
in September and October the Veneto, Sicily, Tuscany, routes in the Po Delta.
in Chianti, Tuscany, and the and Umbria.
Castelli Romani south of Rome, The Società Dante Alighieri
are popular with visitors. provides courses in the Italian Water Sports
Many events have an language, literature, history Most lakeside towns and
international flavor, such as of art, and culture. There are many seaside resorts in Italy
the film festivals held in Venice both full- and part-time rent out sailboats, canoes,
(Aug–Sep), Taormina, (Jul–Aug), courses available, for every and windsurfing equipment
and Rome (Oct). From May to level of ability. and lessons are often available.
June, Florence hosts an arts The Gruppo Archeologico Longer courses in a variety
festival and Syracuse celebrates Romano runs digs in various of water sports are organized
Greek drama. Ravello, near regions. There are summer and by clubs, which usually
Naples, hosts an international winter trips for both adults require membership.
festival of music each May. and children. The Federazione Italiana
Masked Venetians spill onto For those with an interest Attività Subacquee runs
the streets during Carnival in in more energetic activities, underwater diving courses.
February, and on summer the Federazione Arrampicata Most travel agents have a
evenings throughout Italy, Sportiva Italiana has a list of selection of sailing vacations.
tourists can join in street mountain-climbing schools that Swimming pools are
dancing at local festas. organize climbs for people of all expensive in Italy, but it is
abilities. Ski holidays are best cheaper if you pay for a certain
arranged with agents offering number of sessions or for a
Special Interest Vacations package deals. Trekking short membership. Water
Culinary holidays run by excursions can be organized parks are popular and provide
English-speaking experts in with Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). pools, slides, wave machines,
Italian cooking are very popular. Nature walks and bird-watching and games.
DIRECTORY
Entertainment Teatro dell’Opera Hollywood Italian Birds
Venues Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, Corso Como 15, Milan. Protection League
Rome. Tel 06-48 16 01. Tel 02-659 89 96. Via Udine 3A,
Ca’Rezzonico
∑ operaroma.it Pala AJ 43100 Parma.
Fondamenta Rezzonico
Tel 0521-27 30 43.
3136, Venice. Teatro La Fenice Piazza Carlo Stuparich 1,
∑ lipu.it
Tel 041-241 01 00. San Marco Campo, San Milan.
Fantin 1965, Venice. Società Dante
La Pietà Special Interest Alighieri
Tel 041-78 65 11.
Calle della Pietà, Venice. Vacations Piazza Firenze 27, 00186
Tel 041-522 21 71. Teatro San Carlo Rome.
Via San Carlo 98/f, Naples. Club Alpino Italiano Tel 06-687 36 94.
Ostia Antica
Tel 081-797 21 11. Via Galvani 10,
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, ∑ ladante.it
00153 Rome.
Rome. Tel 06-565 00 71. Verona Arena Tasting Places
Tel 06-57 28 71 43.
Pala AJ Via Dietro Anfiteatro 6/b, ∑ cairoma.it PO Box 38174,
Piazza Stuparich 1, Milan. Verona. Tel 045-800 51 51. London W10 5ZP,
Federazione
England.
Parco della Musica Clubs and Discos Arrampicata Sportiva
Tel 0208-964 5333.
Viale de Coubertin, Rome. Italiana
∑ tastingplaces.com
Tel 06-80 24 11. Casinò di Venezia Via del Terrapieno 27,
Calle Vendramin, Bologna.
San Siro Tel 051-601 48 90.
Water Sports
Cannaregio 2040.
Piazzale Angelo Moratti, ∑ federclimb.it
Tel 041-529 71 11. Federazione Italiana
Milan. Tel 02-48 79 82 01. Attività Subacquee
Gilda Gruppo Archeologico
Via A. Dona 8,
Opera Via Mario de’ Fiori 97, Romano
20124 Milan.
Rome. Tel 06-67 84 838. Via Contessa di Bertinoro 6,
Teatro alla Scala Rome. Tel 02-670 50 05.
Via Filodrammatici 2, Goa Tel 06-638 52 56. ∑ fias.it
Milan. Tel 02-887 91. Via Libetta 13, Rome. ∑ gruppo
∑ teatroallascala.org Tel 06-574 82 77. archeologico.it
438  I TA LY
Where to Stay
The Vatican and Price Guide
Rome Trastevere Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Hotel Trastevere €
Around Piazza Navona Budget Map C3 € under €120
Sole al Biscione €€ Via Luciano Manara 24, 00153 €€ €120 to €300
€€€ over €300
Historic Tel 06-581 47 13
Via del Biscione 76, 00186 ∑ hoteltrastevere.net
Tel 06-688 068 73 Simple, clean, and large rooms are
∑ solealbiscione.it available at this hotel, which also Florence
This basic but charming hotel offers a good breakfast spread.
claims to be the oldest in Rome. Antica Dimora Firenze €€
It also allows pets. Free Wi-Fi. Arco del Lauro €€ B&B
B&B Via San Gallo 72/r, 50129
Teatro di Pompeo €€ Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei 27, 00153 Tel 055-462 72 96
Historic Map C3 Tel 06-978 403 50 ∑ johanna.it
Largo del Pallaro 8, 00186 ∑ arcodellauro.it Canopy beds, antique furniture,
Tel 06-683 001 70 This tiny hotel in a picturesque and terracotta floors set this B&B
∑ hotelteatrodipompeo.it medieval location offers simple apart. Laptops and free Wi-Fi.
Built on the ruins of Pompeii’s but lovely rooms.
ancient theater, this hotel has Brunelleschi €€
simple rooms and friendly staff. Villa Riari €€ Historic
Budget Piazza Sant’Elisabetta 3, 50122
Grand Hotel de La Minerve €€€ Via dei Riari 44, 00153 Tel 055-273 70
Luxury Map C3 Tel 06-688 061 22 ∑ hotelbrunelleschi.it
Piazza della Minerva 69, 00186 ∑ villariari.it Housed in a Byzantine tower, the
Tel 06-695 201 This religious center with a Brunelleschi has opulent rooms.
∑ grandhoteldelaminerve.com pleasant garden offers simple
Excellent views from nearly every but clean and quiet rooms. Grand Hotel Minerva €€
room. The decor is luxurious, and Historic
the service is excellent. Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 16,
Aventine and Lateran 50123
Domus Aventina €€ Tel 055-272 30
Northeast Rome Modern Map D4 ∑ grandhotelminerva.com
Via di Santa Prisca 11b, 00153 A panoramic terrace with a pool
Tel 06-574 61 35 gives a modern touch to one of
DK Choice ∑ hoteldomusaventina.com the city’s oldest hotels.
Hassler €€€ A well-located hotel, with many
Luxury Map D2 attractions within walking Relais Il Campanile €€
Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, 00187 distance. Quiet and simple rooms B&B
Tel 06-699 340 open onto a lush courtyard. Via Ricasoli 10, 50125
∑ hotelhasslerroma.com Tel 055-211 688
The discreet service, plush San Anselmo €€ ∑ relaiscampanile.it
furnishings, and stunning Boutique Map D4 Quaint rooms with wrought-iron
rooms make the Hassler a Piazza San Anselmo 2, 00153 features in a 17th-century palazzo.
favorite with celebrities. Guests Tel 06-570 057
can dine at the Michelin-starred ∑ aventinohotels.com
Imàgora restaurant or enjoy a Four-poster beds and clawfoot DK Choice
cocktail in the Hassler Bar. tubs are available at this tasteful Relais Uffizi €€
hotel that is close to many sights. Historic
Chiasso del Buco 16, 50122
Tel 055-267 62 46
∑ relaisuffizi.it
Situated behind the Piazza
della Signoria, the Relais Uffizi
is housed in a restored 16th-
century palace. The rooms are
large, bright, and charmingly
decorated. A buffet breakfast is
served in a room overlooking
the piazza. Pets are welcome.
Residenza Johanna €€
Pensione
Via Bonifacio Lupo 14, 50129
Tel 055-481 896
∑ johanna.it
This tiny and charming hotel is
Plush furnishings in the Grand Hotel de La Minerve, Rome fantastic value. Free parking.
DK Choice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
Leonardo €
Boutique
Corso Magenta 78, 20123
Tel 02-48 01 41 97
∑ anticalocandaleonardo.com
Peacefully located in an elegant
19th-century palazzo, this
family-run hotel has well-
decorated rooms overlooking
a charming inner garden. The
staff are helpful and friendly.
Antiques and gilt mirrors adorn the rooms at Palazzo Abadessa, Venice
MILAN: Antica Locanda
SAN MARCO: Gritti Palace €€€ Solferino €€
Venice Boutique Map D4 Boutique
Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, 30124 Via Castelfidardo 2, 20121
CANNAREGIO: Tel 041-79 46 11 Tel 02-657 01 29
Palazzo Abadessa €€ ∑ thegrittipalace.com ∑ anticalocandasolferino.it
Historic Map C2 Stay in an iconic palazzo dating A welcoming guesthouse
Calle Priuli 4011, 30131 back to 1475 but featuring most with eclectic old-world charm.
Tel 041-241 37 84 modern comforts. Small pets are allowed.
∑ abadessa.com
A charming 16th-century palace PADUA: Augustus Terme €€
with antiques in its large rooms. DK Choice Luxury
SANTA CROCE: Al Sole € Viale Stazione 150, 35036
CASTELLO: Pensione Wildner €€ Historic Map C4 Tel 049-79 32 00
Pensione Map F4 Santa Croce 136, 30124 ∑ hotelaugustus.com
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 Tel 041-244 03 28 Comfortable hotel with opulent
Tel 041-522 74 63 ∑ alsolehotels.com rooms, thermal swimming pools,
∑ hotelwildner.com Housed in Palazzo Marcello, and a reputable restaurant.
Family-run establishment with a 15th-century palace with a
wonderful views from the terrace. beautiful façade and marble- PORTOFINO: Belmond Hotel
floored reception area, Al Sole Splendido €€€
CASTELLO: Londra Palace €€ offers well-appointed rooms. Luxury
Boutique Map F4 Enjoy the rich breakfast spread Salita Baratta 16, 16034
Riva degli Schiavoni 4171, 30122 served in a patio garden. Tel 0185-26 78 01
Tel 041-520 05 33 ∑ hotelsplendido.com
∑ londrapalace.com Housed in a former monastery,
Spacious and luxurious rooms, this hotel has elegantly furnished
plus splendid views of the city rooms, many with private terraces.
and the lagoon. Excellent service. Northern Italy
TURIN: Hotel Conte
DORSODURO: GENOA: Hotel Villa Pagoda €€ Biancamano €€
Agli Alboretti €€ Room with a view Pensione
Pensione Map C5 Via Capolungo 15, 16167 Corso Vittorio Emanuele 73, 10128
Rio Terrà Foscarini 884, 30123 Tel 010-372 61 61 Tel 011-562 32 81
Tel 041-523 00 58 ∑ villapagoda.it ∑ hotelcontebiancamano.it
∑ aglialboretti.com A luxurious 19th-century villa An intimate hotel with elegant
Simple, comfortable rooms are with antique furniture. Located decor, located on the third floor
equipped with a free minibar. just steps away from the coast. of a 19th-century palazzo.
LIDO DI VENEZIA: LAKE GARDA: Locanda VERONA: Il Torcolo €€

Villa Mabapa €€ San Vigilio €€€ Modern
Room with a view Room with a view Vicolo Listone 3, 37121
Riviera San Nicolò 16, 30126 Località San Vigilio 17, 37016 Tel 045-800 75 12
Tel 041-526 05 90 Tel 045-725 66 88 ∑ hoteltorcolo.it
∑ villamabapa.com ∑ locanda-sanvigilio.it Small, family-run property with
Stay in attractive period villas that Exuding old-world charm, this simple rooms and a pleasant
look onto the lagoon. is one of the loveliest, most terrace where breakfast is served.
exclusive hotels on Lake Garda.
SAN MARCO: Saturnia VICENZA: Glam
and International €€ MANTUA: Casa Poli €€ Boutique Hotel €€
Luxury Map D4 Boutique Boutique
Via XXII Marzo 2398, 30124 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 32, 46100 Via A. Giuriolo 10, 36100
Tel 041-520 83 77 Tel 0376-28 81 70 Tel 0444-32 64 58
∑ hotelsaturnia.it ∑ hotelcasapoli.it ∑ gboutiquehotel.com
Opulence in a warm setting. This Located near the harbor, Casa Stylish space with a perfect blend
hotel features antique furnishings Poli offers cozy rooms and of traditional and modern decor.
and a pretty courtyard. minimalist decor. Room service and free Wi-Fi.
440  I TA LY
NAPLES: Decumani €€
Central Italy Naples and Historic
Via del Grande Archivio 8, 80100
ASSISI: Subasio €€ the South Tel 081-420 13 79
Modern ∑ palazzodecumani.com
Via Elia Frate 2c, 06081 AMALFI: Hotel Desirée € A 20th-century Baroque palace
Tel 075-81 22 06 Room with a view with tasteful, contemporary
∑ hotelsubasio.com Via Capo 31, 80067 furnishings. Free Wi-Fi.
Atmospheric and spacious rooms, Tel 081-878 15 63
some with terraces. Located ∑ desireehotelsorrento.com NAPLES: Grand Hotel
beside the famous basilica. This simple cliffside hotel offers Vesuvio €€
excellent value. There is also an Room with a view
elevator to a small private beach. Via Partenope 45, 80121
DK Choice Tel 081-764 00 44
BOLOGNA: Grand Hotel AMALFI: ∑ vesuvio.it
Majestic €€€ Antica Repubblica €€ Sumptuous lodgings with views
Luxury Boutique of the iconic Gulf of Naples. The
Via Indipendenza 8, 40121 Vico dei Pastai 2, 84011 two on-site restaurants also offer
Tel 051-225 445 Tel 089-873 63 10 panoramic views.
∑ grandhotelmajestic. ∑ anticarepubblica.it
hotelsbologna.it A charming hotel with a terrace
This legendary hotel expertly and elegantly furnished rooms
combines opulent old- featuring modern comforts. Sicily
world elegance with modern
comfort and hospitality. AMALFI: Bellevue Syrene €€€ AGRIGENTO: Camere del Sud €
Each room is individually Luxury B&B
decorated with lush fabrics Piazza della Vittoria 5, 80067 Via Ficani, 92100
and antique furniture. Breakfast Tel 081-878 10 24 Tel 349-638 44 24
is served on the romantic ∑ bellevue.it ∑ camereasud.it
rooftop terrace with sweeping Housed in a dreamy 18th- Stay in a warm, simple room
views of the city. The dining century villa with a flowering at this sunny B&B with friendly
room boasts beautiful frescoes. terrace and private beach access. and helpful owners.
CAPRI: Bellavista €€€ ERICE: Elimo €€

FERRARA: Hotel Nazionale € Boutique Room with a view
Boutique Via Giuseppe Orlandi 10, 80071 Via Vittorio Emanuele 73, 91016
Corso Porta Reno 32, 44121 Tel 081-837 14 63 Tel 0923-86 93 77
Tel 0532 24 3 596 ∑ bellavistacapri.com ∑ hotelelimo.it
∑ hotelnazionaleferrara.it At this 1960s-style hotel, all Small but lovely rooms – some
Despite its central location, the rooms have private balconies with balconies that afford views
rooms here are very quiet, and with sea or garden views. of the countryside.
are furnished with modern
design furniture. Pets are welcome. CAPRI: Grand Hotel PALERMO: Principe di
Quisisana €€€ Villafranca €
PISA: Guerrazzi € Luxury Luxury
B&B Via Camerelle 2, 80073 Via Giuseppina Turrisi Colonna 4,
Via Francesco da Buti 4, 56125 Tel 081-837 07 88 Closed Nov–Feb 90141
Tel 338-932 81 69 ∑ quisisana.com Tel 091-611 85 23
∑ bbguerrazzi.hostel.com The Quisisana features deluxe ∑ principedivillafranca.it
Simple but quaint, with accommodations oozing Elegant hotel full of intricate and
comfortable and clean rooms. Mediterranean elegance. Spa colorful design details, including
Conveniently located close to treatments and a Turkish bath. antique art and furnishings.
the airport and train station.
PISA: Royal Victoria Hotel €

Historic
Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti 12, 56126
Tel 050-94 01 11
∑ royalvictoria.it
Set in a 10th-century tower, the
Royal Victoria has stately decor
and spacious rooms.
SIENA: Antica Residenza

Cicogna €
Pensione
Via Termini 67, 53100
Tel 0577-28 56 13
∑ anticaresidenzacicogna.it
Housed in a medieval building,
this is a charming, refurbished
hotel with modern amenities.
Richly decorated suite at Grand Hotel Vesuvio, Naples
Key to prices see page 438

Price Guide
Rome Prices are based on a three-course meal
per person, with a half-bottle of house
Around Piazza Navona € up to €40
Acchiappafantasmi € €€ €40 to €75
€€€ over €75
Pizzeria Map C3
Via dei Cappellari 66, 00186
Tel 06-687 34 62 Closed Mon
With a bright and inviting interior, Florence
Acchiappafantasmi, or “Ghost-
busters,” serves ghost-shaped Da Kou €
pizzas – amusing and delicious. Japanese
Via del Melarancio 19/r, 50123
Camponeschi €€ Tel 055-28 29 22 Closed Mon
Fine Dining Map C3 Fresh and authentic sushi is
Piazza Farnese, 50/50a, 00186 prepared with skill and served
Tel 06-687 49 27 in generous portions here. The
World-class dining in the heart of decor is modern and informal.
town. Try the tagliolini pasta with The enticing window of Roscioli, a deli and
lobster and black truffles. Wild wine bar in the heart of Rome Il Vegetariano €
game is the house specialty. Vegetarian
La Campana €€ Via delle Ruote 30, 50129
Roscioli €€ Regional Italian Map C2 Tel 055-47 50 30 Closed Sat & Sun
Enoteca Map 9 C4 Vicolo della Campana 18, 00186 lunch; Mon; 3 wks Aug, Christmas
Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Tel 06-687 52 73 Closed Mon; Aug Enjoy excellent-value fare at this
Tel 06-687 52 87 Closed Sun The oldest restaurant in Rome, long-established restaurant
Part wine bar, part salumeria dating back to 1518, La Campana where the menu changes daily.
(deli), with drool-worthy meats serves traditional favorites and
and cheeses, and a dizzying plenty of fish dishes. Ruth’s €
selection of wine labels. Kosher/Vegetarian
Via Luigi Carlo Farini 2, 50121
Hostaria dell’Orso €€€ The Vatican and Tel 055-248 08 88 Closed Fri dinner
Fine Dining Map C3 Trastevere & Sat lunch; Jewish festivities
Via dei Soldati 25c, 00186 Located beside the synagogue,
Tel 06-683 011 92 Closed Aug Osteria dell’Angelo € this kosher restaurant serves
This legendary restaurant and Regional Italian Jewish-inspired recipes, plus a
nightclub, located in a beautiful Via G. Bettolo 24, 00195 wide range of vegetarian and
house, has been welcoming Tel 06-372 94 70 seafood options.
guests since the 16th century. Head here for outstanding
Roman cuisine at affordable Alle Murate €€
prices. For an all-Roman Regional Italian
Northeast Rome experience, try the rigatoni with Via del Proconsolo 16/r, 50122
San Marco € pajata (offal sauce). Tel 055-24 06 18 Closed Mon
Pizzeria Map D2 This unique restaurant offers an
Via Sardegna 38, 00187 Antico Arco €€ opportunity to combine art and
Tel 06-420 126 20 Closed 1 wk Aug; Fine Dining Map C3 food. Housed in a 14th-century
Dec 24 Piazzale Aurelio 7, 00152 palace, it boasts original frescoes
A wine bar and grill noted for its Tel 06-581 52 74 Closed Jan 1 on the walls and vaulted ceilings.
delicious pizzas and gracious Truffles, wild strawberries, gluten-
service. The blackboard-covered free bread and pastas, and other Dei Frescobaldi €€
walls list the day’s specials. such delights are on offer here. Enoteca
The vast wine list is tantalizing Via dei Magazzini 2–4/r, 50122
Trimani il Wine Bar € and the desserts are divine. Tel 055-28 47 24 Closed Mon
Enoteca Map E2 lunch; 1 wk Jan, 3 wks Aug
Via Cernaia 37b, 00185 Sample fine wines and
Tel 06-446 96 30 Closed Sun; Jan 1; DK Choice meticulously matched dishes
2 wks Aug; Dec 25 & 26 Isole di Sicilia €€ in a setting of frescoed walls
Modern wine bar with labels that Regional Italian and exposed stonework.
pair perfectly with cold and hot Via Garibaldi 68, 00153
dishes, as well as Italian cheeses. Tel 06-583 342 12 Closed Wed Bistrò Del Mare €€€
The elaborate dishes at this Fine Dining
Hamasei €€ cheerful restaurant are inspired Lungarno Corsini 4/r, 50123
Japanese Map D2 by the cuisine of the islands Tel 055-239 92 24 Closed Mon;
Via della Mercede 35/36, 00187 around Sicily. A vast antipasto 1 wk Aug
Tel 06-679 21 34 Closed Mon; Aug spread of cold meats and Steps away from Ponte Vecchio,
Inventive sushi and sashimi vegetables kicks off a lovely this refined restaurant
dishes are served in a minimalist meal. In good weather, you can specializing in seafood serves
setting, with low tables for dine on the tree-lined street. dishes inspired by old Tuscan
authentic Oriental-style dining. recipes but with a modern twist.
442  I TA LY
are great fish and game dishes.

Try the freshly made gnocchi.
DK Choice
MILAN:
Nobile Bistrò de Milan €€
Regional Italian
Corso Venezia 45, 20121
Tel 02-49 52 65 92 Closed 2 wks
Aug
Well-known Milanese chef
Claudio Sadler prepares
traditional meat and fish dishes
The outdoor eating area at Osteria da Rioba, Venice with a modern twist at this
reasonably priced restaurant.
SAN POLO: Da Fiore €€€ Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea,
Venice Fine Dining Map C3 aperitivo (aperitif ), and dinner
Calle delle Botteghe, 30125 are all served in an informal
Tel 041-523 53 10 Closed Tue; Jan atmosphere. Sit indoors or
DK Choice 8–22; 3 wks Aug in the private courtyard.
BURANO-MAZZORBO: Seasonal produce is the rule at
Venissa €€€ this restaurant said to be the best
Modern Italian in the city. Leave room for dessert. PADUA: Trattoria San Pietro €€
Fondamenta Santa Caterina 3, Regional Italian
30170 Via San Pietro 95, 35139
Tel 041-527 22 81 Closed Tue; Tel 049-876 03 30 Closed Sun; Jul
Oct–May Northern Italy The perfect place for regional
Venissa guarantees a special dishes cooked with fresh local
gastronomic experience. The GENOA: Cantine Squarciafico €€ ingredients. Informal ambience.
menu features seafood, meat, Regional Italian
and vegetarian options made Piazza Invrea 3r, 16123 PORTOFINO: Da U Batti €€
using home-grown produce. Tel 010-247 08 23 Closed Mon Seafood
lunch; 1 wk Jan, 2 wks Aug Vico Nuovo 17, 16034
This wine bar serves up a range Tel 0185-26 93 79 Closed Mon;
CANNAREGIO: of Ligurian specialties, including Nov–mid-Jan
Osteria da Rioba €€ great stracci (a type of lasagne). A chic, intimate restaurant in one
Seafood Map C2 of Liguria’s most elegant towns.
Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553, Exceptional fish cuisine.
30121 DK Choice
Tel 041-524 43 79 Closed Mon LAKE COMO: VERONA: Il Desco €€€
A charming canal-side restaurant L’Angolo del Silenzio €€ Fine Dining
decorated with a seafood mosaic. Regional Italian Via Dietro San Sebastiano 5-7, 37121
Reserve in advance. Viale Lecco 25, 22100 Tel 045-595 358 Closed Sun & Mon
Tel 031-377 21 57 Closed Mon & (except Mon dinner Jul, Aug & Dec);
CASTELLO: Ristorante Wildner €€ Tue lunch; 2 wks Aug 2 wks Jun & Dec
Regional Italian Map F4 This osteria (wine bar) offers Housed in an old patrician house,
Riva degli Schiavoni 4161, 30122 pasta, meat, game, and fish this elegant Michelin-starred
Tel 041-522 74 63 Closed Tue; dishes in a friendly atmosphere. restaurant offers a creative take
3 wks Jan Try the wild boar with red- on traditional Italian cuisine.
Diners can feast on fresh fish and currant sauce and Roquefort.
locally grown organic vegetables An inexpensive one-dish lunch
at this restaurant. There is also an is available on weekdays, and
interesting wine list. gluten-free dishes are prepared Central Italy
upon request. Book ahead.
SAN MARCO: Acqua Pazza €€ ASSISI: La Fortezza €
Seafood Map D4 Regional Italian
Campo Sant’Angelo 3808, 30124 MILAN: Pasta Madre € Vicolo della Fortezza 2b, 06081
Tel 041-277 06 88 Closed Mon; Modern Italian Tel 075-81 29 93 Closed Thu; Jul
Jan–Feb Via Bernardino Corio 8, 20135 Mostly traditional cuisine, with
This is where the Amalfi Coast Tel 02-55 19 00 20 Closed Sun; Aug some creative touches. Friendly
meets Venice. A different take Contemporary decor and a but professional service and a
on fish, with wines to match. relaxed ambience. Pasta Madre good price–quality ratio.
serves creative Italian fare, as
SAN MARCO: well as gluten-free desserts. BOLOGNA:
Trattoria Do Forni €€€ Antica Trattoria della Gigina €€
Fine Dining Map D4 MILAN: U Barba € Regional Italian
Calle dei Specchieri 468, 30124 Regional Italian Via Stendhal 1, 40128
Tel 041-523 21 48 Via Decembrio 33, 20137 Tel 051-32 23 00
Two dining areas with Tel 02-45 48 70 32 Closed Mon; Tue– This eatery delivers a modern
different decor serve careful Fri: lunch take on regional cuisine without
interpretations of classic A friendly Genoese osteria with compromising on the flavors.
Venetian cuisine. a bocce ball court. On the menu Extensive wine list.
Key to prices see page 441
BOLOGNA: Pappagallo €€ CAPRI: Da Paolino €

Fine Dining Regional Italian Sicily
Piazza della Mercanzia 3, 40125 Via Palazzo a Mare 11, 80073
Tel 051-232 807 Closed 2 wks Aug Tel 081-837 61 02 Closed Oct–Apr AGRIGENTO: Kokalos €€
Excellent traditional cuisine A rustic country restaurant with Regional Italian
is served under dramatically rich regional cuisine. Guests Via Cavaleri Magazzeni 3
high ceilings. The desserts are dine amid lemon trees. Tel 0922-60 64 27
delicious, and the wine cellar Sample traditional Sicilian fare
is well stocked. CAPRI: L’Olivo €€ prepared using local ingredients,
Fine Dining including oranges, almonds, and
PISA: La Taverna di Emma € Via Capodimonte 14, 80071 sun-dried tomatoes.
Modern Italian Tel 081-978 05 60 Closed mid-Oct–
Via Carlo Salomone Cammeo 50, mid-Apr PALERMO:
56122 The chefs here use ingredients Antico Caffè Spinnato €
Tel 050-555 003 Closed Sun; 1 wk such as saffron, bergamot, fava Enoteca
Feb; last 2 wks Aug beans, and asparagus to create Via Principe di Belmonte 111, 90139
A talented chef whips up creative gorgeous flavor combinations. Tel 091-58 32 31 Closed Christmas
yet traditional recipes at this Come for the wines, liqueurs,
simple eatery. Delicious desserts. and espresso coffee, but stay
DK Choice for traditional desserts such as
PISA: V. Beni €€ NAPLES: Da Michele € cannoli and gelato.
Seafood Pizzeria
Piazza Chiara Gambacorti 22, 56125 Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 PALERMO: Bye Bye Blues €€
Tel 050-250 67 Closed Sun; Tel 081-553 92 04 Closed Sun; Fine Dining
2 wks Aug 2 wks Aug Via del Garofalo 23, 90149
Located slightly off the tourist A trip to Naples would not be Tel 091-684 14 15 Closed Mon;
track, this local favorite is housed complete without tasting a pizza 2 wks Jan
in a rustic 15th-century building. here, probably the most famous At this Michelin-starred
pizzeria in the world. Only two restaurant, diners can watch
types of pizza are available: their dishes being prepared.
DK Choice margherita and marinara. Fantastic value.
SIENA: La Taverna di San
Giuseppe €€ SIRACUSA: Oinos €
Regional Italian NAPLES: La Cantinella €€ Modern Italian
Via Giovanni Dupre 132, 53100 Fine Dining Via della Giudecca 69/75, 96100
Tel 0577-422 86 Closed Sun Via Cuma 42, 80132 Tel 0931-464 900
Nestled in the tangle of Sienese Tel 081-764 86 84 Closed Sun Dine in an intimate setting and
alleys, this characteristic This award-winning restaurant enjoy a variety of dishes based
restaurant offers delicious with a bamboo-forest decor on recipes from all over Italy.
meats, some of which are boasts an imaginative chef.
served with truffles, a variety of
rustic antipasti, and popular first NAPLES: Il Comandante €€€ DK Choice
courses including a delicious Fine Dining TAORMINA: Al Duomo €€
lasagna. Great view over the Via Cristoforo Colombo, 80133 Seafood
cellar and attentive service. Tel 081-017 50 01 Closed Tue Vico Ebrei (Piazza Duomo), 98039
Reservations recommended. The chef here creates exquisite Tel 0942-625 656 Closed winter:
dishes from a handful of basic Mon
ingredients. Sunny patio seating. This restaurant is set on a terrace
URBINO: in Taormina’s most beautiful
Antica Osteria da la Stella €€ POSITANO: Remmese piazza, with the backdrop of a
Regional Italian Beach Club €€ 12th-century cathedral. Classic
Via Santa Margherita 1, 61029 Seafood and modern fish dishes are
Tel 0722-320 228 Closed Mon; Via Marconi 127, 84018 whipped up with enthusiasm
2 wks Jul Tel 089-875 733 by the chefs. The kitchen
Famous painters such as Raphael Sweeping sea views and delicious is open well past midnight.
and Piero della Francesca have fish cuisine define this restaurant.
dined at this historic restaurant.
Elegant interiors with a fireplace.
Naples and
the South
AMALFI: La Caravella €€€
Fine Dining
Via Matteo Camera 12, 84011
Tel 089-87 10 29 Closed Tue; Jan
& Nov
The award-winning chef at La
Caravella uses local flavors to
exalt the regional cuisine. Dine amid a lemon orchard at Da Paolino, on the island of Capri
I TA LY A N D G R E E C E  445
GREECE
Greece is one of the most visited countries in Europe, yet remains one of
the least known. Although most visitors will be familiar with the images of
Ancient Greece, the modern Greek state dates only from 1830. Situated at a
geographical crossroads, Greece combines cultural elements of the Balkans,
the Middle East, and the Mediterranean.
For a small country, Greece possesses amenities. A number of improvements,

marked regional differences. Nearly three- including the growth of tourism, helped
quarters of the land is mountainous, Greece develop into a relatively wealthy,
uninhabited, or uncultivated. On the modern state. However, the financial crisis
mainland, fertile agricultural land supports of 2010 to the present has led to a rise in
tobacco farming in the northeast, with unemployment, a series of unpopular
orchard fruits and vegetables grown farther austerity bills, and political instability.
south. A third of the population lives in the
capital, Athens, the cultural, financial, and History
political center, where ancient and modern Early Greek history is marked by a series of
stand side by side. Of the myriad islands, internal struggles, from the Mycenaean
only about eighty are today inhabited. and Minoan cultures of the Bronze Age
For centuries, a large number of Greeks to the competing city-states of the 1st
have lived abroad. Currently, there are over millennium BC. In spite of warfare, the
half as many Greeks outside the country 4th and 5th centuries BC were the high
as in, although recent years have seen point of ancient Greek civilization, a
reverse immigration, with expatriates golden age of exceptional creativity
returning home, especially to the islands. in philosophy and the arts.
Rural and urban life in contemporary In 338 BC, the Greeks were conquered
Greece has been transformed since the by Philip II of Macedonia at Chaironeia,
start of the 20th century, despite foreign and Greece soon became absorbed into
occupation and civil war. Until the 1960s, Alexander the Great’s vast empire. With
the country remained underdeveloped, the defeat of the Macedonians by the
with many rural areas lacking basic Romans in 168 BC, Greece was made a
The idyllic Myrtos Bay as seen from the clifftops of Kefalonia, one of the Ionian islands
Dusk falls over picturesque Oia village, on the island of Santorini, in the Cyclades
province of Rome. As part of the Eastern

Roman Empire, it was ruled from
Constantinople and became a powerful
element within the Orthodox Christian,
Byzantine world.
Following the Ottomans’ momentous
capture of Constantinople in 1453, the
Greek mainland was ruled by the Turks
for the next 375 years. Crete and the
Ionian islands were seized for long periods
by the Venetians. Eventually, the Greeks
rebelled and, in 1821, the Greek War
of Independence began. In 1832, the
Great Powers that dominated Europe
established a protectorate over Greece,
marking the end of Ottoman rule. During 19th-century lithograph celebrating the Greek War
the 19th century, the Greeks expanded of Independence
their national territory, reasserting Greek
sovereignty over many of the islands. to a close thousands of years of Greek
Almost a century of significant territorial presence in Asia Minor. The ensuing years
gains came to a disastrous end in 1922, were a time of hardship and instability. The
when 1.4 million Greeks were expelled Metaxás dictatorship was followed by
from Smyrna in Turkish Anatolia, bringing Italian, German, and Bulgarian occupation
during World War II, and then a bitter civil
KEY DATES IN GREEK HISTORY
war. The present boundaries of the Greek
state date from 1948, when the
3000–1200 BC Bronze Age; Cycladic, Minoan, and Dodecanese were finally returned by
Mycenaean cultures flourish
the Italians. Today, Greece is a stable
800 Emergence of city-states
democracy and has been a member
5th century Classical period; high point of Athenian
culture under Perikles of the European Union since 1981.
431–404 Peloponnesian Wars; defeat of the
Athenians by the city-state of Sparta Religion, Language and Culture
338 Greek army conquered by Philip II of Macedonia During Venetian and Ottoman domination,
333 Alexander the Great declares himself king of Asia; the Greek Orthodox church succeeded in
Greece absorbed into his vast empire
preserving the Greek language and identity.
168 Greece becomes province of Rome
Today, the Orthodox church is still a power-
AD 49–54 St. Paul preaches Christianity in Greece
ful force. Great importance is placed on
395 Greece becomes part of the new Eastern Roman
Empire, ruled from Constantinople baptisms and church weddings, although
1453 Constantinople falls to the Ottoman Turks civil marriages are valid in law. Sunday
1821 Start of the Greek War of Independence mass is very popular with women, for whom
1832 Great Powers establish protectorate over Greece church is a meeting place for socializing,
1922 Greeks fail to capture Smyrna from Turks just as the kafeneía (cafés) are for men.
1941–9 World War II and subsequent civil war leaves The Greek language was for a long time
thousands dead or displaced a field of conflict between katharévousa,
1981 Admission to the European Union an artificial form devised around the time
2002 Euro becomes legal currency of independence, and the slowly evolved
2004 Greece hosts Olympic Games and wins the everyday speech, or dimotikí. Today’s
football European Cup
prevalence of dimotikí was perhaps a
2010–15 Greece narrowly avoids bankruptcy after
taking €400 billion in loans from the EU and IMF foregone conclusion in an oral culture.
The art of storytelling is as prized now as
GREECE  447
it was in Homer’s time, with conversation

pursued for its own sake in kafeneía and
at dinner tables. Singers, writers, and
poet-lyricists have all kept dimotikí alive.
Development and Diplomacy

Greece remains one of the poorer
members of the European Union. It still
bears the hallmarks of a developing
economy, with agriculture and the service Typical scene at a Greek taverna, a popular place for friends and
family to socialize
sector accounting for two-thirds of the
GNP. Tourism has compensated for the 2010, it was revealed that Greece was
decline in other industries, such as world nearly bankrupt and a €110 billion loan
shipping, but unemployment remains high. from the EU and IMF was agreed. PASOK
The fact that the Greek state is less than prime minister George Papandreou
200 years old, combined with recent resigned in late 2011, and 2012 elections
periods of political instability, means produced a coalition government
that there is little faith in headed by ND’s Antonis Samaras.
government institutions. Life Successive 2015 elections yielded
operates on networks of a leftist government under SYRIZA
personal friendships and prime minister Alexis Tsipras.
official contacts. In the
political sphere, the years Home Life
following World War II were The family is still the basic Greek
largely shaped by the influence social unit. Traditionally, one
of two men: Andréas family would farm its own land
Papandréou of the Panhellenic independently, and today, family-
Socialist Movement (PASOK) The late Andréas run businesses are common in
and Conservative Konstantínos Papandréou, twice Greek urban settings. Family life and
prime minister
Karamanlís, who between them social life overlap considerably,
held office for much of the period between and tend to revolve around eating out.
1955 and 1995. Arranged marriages and dowries, though
The conservative New Democracy officially banned, persist. Most single
Party led by Kostas Karamanlís (nephew young adults live with their parents and
of Konstantínos) replaced PASOK after a outside the largest cities, few unmarried
convincing election win in 2004. PASOK couples cohabit. Greece has one of the
were back in power by autumn 2009. In lowest birth rates in Europe. Recently, the
status of urban Greek women
has greatly improved. They are
well represented in medicine
and law, and many women
run their own firms. However,
in the country, macho
attitudes still exist, women
often sacrificing a career to
look after the house and
children. That said, the ongoing
economic crisis and more
worldly outlooks have severely
Fishermen mending their nets on one of the Greek islands eroded traditional mores.
Exploring Greece
From beaches to ancient archaeological
Skopje
sites, Greece boasts a wide range of
REPUBLIC OF
attractions. The nation’s greatest ancient MACEDONIA
monuments are located in the capital, Tirana
Athens, but relics of the Mycenaean, Kilkís
Minoan, Classical, and Byzantine
s
Gallikó
Ancient
civilizations can be found all over. The Flórina 2 Edessa
1
Préspa 2 Pélla
Greek islands attract thousands of
2
tourists, many of whom come simply to 4 Thessaloníki 2
15
Ptolemaïda
enjoy the sun and sand and the relaxed Kastoriá Véroia 16
as
pace of life. Ferries link the different
on
3
25
m
island groups to the mainland, and Kateríni
iák
20 Kozáni
Al
“island-hopping” is a popular ALBANIA
13
way to explore the 3

Kónitsa Grevená
many archipelagos.
1
Sarandë 2 Mount
26
Olympos
15
is ´
Tyrnavos
Corfu and m 6 Metéora
y´ a
the Ionian Corfu Th
Town 6 Lárisa
Islands Ioánnina 6
Tríkala 6
6
eiós
Arachthos
Igoumenítsa Pin 1
Corfu
Kardítsa
3
Vólos
5
Italy
Ac
34
helóos
Párga 30
Fársala
Paxos Arta
18
1
0 km
G R E E C E
50
P
5
0 miles 50 Préveza Glyfa

Karpenisi
Lamía
38 Loutrá
42
Lefkáda ió s Aidipsoú
rche
Town S pe
5
38 3
Lefkáda 1
Agrínio Ancient
27
Meganísi Astakós
Delphi
Key
5
48 Galaxídi 48
Kefalloniá Ithaca Mesolóngi
Highway Gulf 3
Sámi of C Monastery
Major road Pátra orin
Argostóli th of Osios M
Railroad Loukás
8A
International boundary 9
Kyllíni Kalávryta
Ancient
33
Amaliáda 7 Corinth
Zákynthos
Mycenae
4
Town ´
Pyrgos Dimitsána A
Zákynthos 74 Epidaurus
Loúsios
7
Ancient Gorge
Olympía
Náfplio
9
Trípoli
Ionian Megalópoli
Kranídi
Sights at a Glance
39
Néda
1 Athens pp450–57 Sea Spétses

Evr
7
2 Soúnio t Náfplio
óti
s
Kalamáta Mystrás
3 Monastery of Dafní y Monemvasía
9
4 Monastery of Osios Loukás u Máni Peninsula 82

39
Pylos
´
5 Ancient Delphi i Mystrás
6 Pílio o Loúsios Gorge Gytheio
´
Schíza
7 Metéora pp462–3 p Ancient Olympia
Monemvasía
8 Thessaloníki a Corfu and the Ionian Islands Neápoli
Geroliménas
9 Ancient Pélla
Islands South of the Mainland Máni Elafónisos
0 Mount Athos Peninsula
(see inset map)
q Mount Olympos ´
Kythira
w Ancient Corinth s Cyclades
e Mycenae d Rhodes and the Dodecanese
r Epidaurus f Crete

GREECE  449
Sofia Kastaniés
BULGARIA Orestiáda
Nést Istanbul
51
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Thásos Thraci an Sea
16
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Néa Moudaniá Mount

Athos Imvros
Límnos
Ténedos
Agios
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Pílio Gioúra
Skiáthos
TURKEY
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Peristerá
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Skópelos
77
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77
´
Kymi
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44
1
Monastery
of Dafní Marathónas
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ATHENS Marmari
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Póros Tínos
´
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Syros Islands South of the Mainland
Chios TURKEY
ATHENS
Andros
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Sérifos Páros Pátmos
´
Kythnos Syros ´
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Sífnos Sífnos Kálymnos
Mílos Kímolos The Cyclades Amorgós

Kos
´
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Astypálaia Town
Santorini
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the Dodecanese
Lindos
MEDITERRANEAN Rhodes
SEA
Kárpathos
Chaniá
Kásos 0 km 50
Irákleio
Crete 0 miles 50
Agios
Nikólaos

AFTOKR
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1 Athens
Athens has been inhabited for 7,000 years. The city’s
SION
greatest glory was during the Classical period (4th and EXARCHEIA
PAT I
5th centuries BC) of ancient Greece, from which so many
buildings and artifacts survive. The city is dominated by STOU
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the world-famous Acropolis and its theaters and temples, SOLO
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including the Parthenon, erected by Perikles as part of his
MPO
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grand building plan in the mid-5th century BC. Within the
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Byzantine Empire and under Ottoman rule, Athens played
GEOR
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only a minor role. It returned to prominence in 1834, when NZER K
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King Otto made it capital of Greece. When the king’s GRA
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Theater of Hadrian's
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220 yards (200m) Akropoli
Marble figurine from the

Museum of Cycladic Art A
DI
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AT H E N S  451
DE LIG
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Sights at a Glance
I
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1 National Archaeological
TRIKO
OU
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Museum
ADO
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TSAM
TSA
2 Monastiráki
OIKO
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3 Ancient Agora
S
DONO
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4 Acropolis pp454–6
SPYRI
5 Plaka
PLATEIA
EXARCHEION
6 Temple of Olympian Zeus
7 Benáki Museum
8 Museum of Cycladic Art
AN
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9 Byzantine and Christian

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The 1st-century BC Tower of the Winds

T
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G K
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in Monastiráki, central Athens

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Getting Around
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The sights of Athens’ city center are closely
OK
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packed, and often the best way of getting
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PEFKAKIA around is on foot, especially with the appalling

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NO
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traffic. There are about 20 bus and trolley bus
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Theatrical AT
National ST
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Museum S A
Library SI
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routes that crisscross the city. The metro system
ER
A I PLATEIA
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is most useful for crossing the city, getting to
ID
NO
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A
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the port of Piraeus and to the airport.

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SIS Pedestrian street
OL PLATEIA
GA STADIOU
City walls
S
Zappio
0 meters 300
0 yards 300
U
TO
DIT
AR

2 Monastiráki
q Monastiráki. Market: Open daily.
This lively and atmospheric

area, which is named after
the little monastery in Plateía
Monastirakíou, is synonymous
with Athens’ famous flea
market. Located next to the
ancient Agora, it is bounded
by Sarrí in the west and Aiólou
in the east. The streets of
Pandrósou, Ifaístou, and Areos
leading off Plateía Monastirakíou
Neoclassical entrance to the National Archaeological Museum are full of shops, selling a range
of goods from expensive
1 National worth seeing. These include antiques, leather, and silver
Archaeological the stunning Eléni Stathátou
jewelry collection and the
to tourist trinkets.
The heart of the flea market
Museum Egyptian rooms. is in Plateía Avyssinías, west of
Patissíon 44. Tel 213-214 4800. High points of the museum Plateía Monastirakíou, where on
q Omónoia. Open Apr–Oct: include the unique finds from weekend mornings junk dealers
8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 1–8pm the grave circle at Mycenae (see arrive with pieces of furniture
Mon, 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 p467), in particular the gold and various odds and ends.
∑ namuseum.gr Mask of Agamemnon. Also not During the week, the shops and
to be missed are the Archaic stalls are filled with antiques,
When it was opened in 1891, kouroi statues and the unrivaled second-hand books, rugs,
this museum brought together collection of Classical and leatherware, taverna chairs,
antiquities that had previously Hellenistic statues. Two of the army surplus gear, and tools.
been stored in different places most important and finest of On Sunday mornings, when
all over the city. New wings the bronzes are the Horse with some shops are closed, the
were added in 1939, but the Little Jockey and Poseidon. market itself still flourishes
during World War II, the One of the world’s largest along Adrianoú and in Plateía
museum’s priceless exhibits collections of ancient ceramics Agíou Filíppou. There are
were dispersed and buried can also be found here, always numerous bargains
underground to protect them comprising a vast array of to be had. Items particularly
from possible damage. The elegant red- and black-figure worth investing in include
museum reopened in 1946, vases from the 6th and 5th used CDs and vinyl,
but it has taken another 60 or centuries BC and some backgammon sets, copper
so years of renovation and Geometric funerary vases that items, and an abundance of
reorganization to finally do date back as far as 1000 BC. good silver jewelry.
justice to its formidable
collection. With the
combination of such unique
exhibits as the Mycenaean
gold, and an unrivaled
assembly of sculpture, pottery,
and jewelry, it can definitely be
claimed as one of the finest
museums in the world. It is a
good idea to plan ahead and
be selective when visiting the
museum and not attempt to
cover everything in one visit.
The museum’s exhibits can
be divided into seven main
collections: Neolithic and
Cycladic, Mycenaean, Geometric
and Archaic sculpture, Classical
sculpture, Roman and
Hellenistic sculpture, the pottery
collections, and the Thíra
frescoes. There are also other
smaller collections that are well Shoppers browsing in Athens’s lively Monastiráki market
AT H E N S  453
View across the Agora, with the Theseion temple on the left
3 Ancient Agora ruins on the site are the Odeion tourists and Athenians, who
of Agrippa, a covered theater, come to eat in old-fashioned
Main entrance at Adrianoú,
and the Hephaisteion, a temple tavernas or browse in the
Monastiráki. Tel 210-321 0185.
q Thiseío, Monastiráki. Museum
to Hephaistos, also known as antique and icon shops, Pláka
and site: Open 8am–7pm daily the Theseion. still retains the atmosphere of a
(winter: to 3pm). Closed main public traditional neighborhood. The
Lysikrates Monument in Plateía
hols. & 7 limited.
4 Acropolis Lysikrátous is one of a number
The American School of See pp454–6. of monuments that were built
Archaeology commenced to commemorate the victors at
excavations of the Ancient the annual choral and dramatic
Agora in the 1930s, and since 5 Plaka festival at the Theater of
then a complex array of public q Monastiráki, Acropolis. v 1, 2, 4, Dionysos. Taking its name from
buildings and temples has been 5, and many others. a 4th-century BC sponsor of the
revealed. From about 3000 BC, winning team, it is the only such
the Agora was the political and The area of Plaka is the historic monument still intact in Athens.
religious heart of ancient heart of Athens. Even though Many churches are worth a
Athens. Also the center of only a few buildings date back visit: the 11th-century Agios
commercial and daily life, it to before the Ottoman period, it Nikólaos Ragavás has ancient
abounded with schools and remains the oldest continually columns built into the walls.
elegant stoas, or roofed inhabited area in the city. One The Tower of the Winds, in
arcades, filled with shops. The probable explanation of its the far west of Pláka, lies in the
state prison was here, as was name comes from the word grounds of the Roman Agora. It
the city’s mint. Even the used by Albanian soldiers in the was built by a Syrian astronomer
remains of an olive oil mill have service of the Ottomans who in the 2nd century BC as a
been found. settled here in the 16th century weather vane and water clock.
The main building standing – pliaka (old) was how they The name comes from external
today is the impressive two- used to describe the area. friezes depicting the eight
story Stoa of Attalos. This was Despite the constant swarm of mythological winds.
rebuilt in the 1950s on the
original foundations and using
ancient building materials.
Founded by King Attalos of
Pergamon (ruled 159–138 BC),
it dominated the eastern
quarter of the Agora until it
was destroyed in AD 267. It
is used today as a museum,
exhibiting the finds from the
Agora. These include a klepsydra
(a water clock that was used
for timing plaintiffs’ speeches),
bronze ballots, and items from
everyday life such as some
terra-cotta toys and leather
sandals. The best-preserved The Byzantine church of Agios Nikólaos Ragavás in Plaka
4 Acropolis Plateía Omonoías
ACROPOLIS
In the mid-5th century BC, Perikles persuaded the AREIOS
PAGOS
Athenians to begin a grand program of new building PNYX
work. The resulting transformation has come to Plateía
Syntágmatos
embody the political and cultural achievements of HILL OF
THE
ancient Greece. Three contrasting temples were built NYMPHS
FILOPAPPOS
on the Acropolis, together with a monumental HILL
gateway. The Theater of Dionysos and the Theater

of Herodes Atticus were added later, in the 4th
century BC and the 2nd century AD respectively. Locator Map
. Porch of the Caryatids

These statues of women
were used in place of
columns on the south
porch of the Erechtheion.
The originals, four of
which can be seen in the
Acropolis Museum, have
been replaced by casts.
. Temple of Athena Nike

This temple to Athena of Victory is
on the west side of the Propylaia.
It was built in 426–421 BC.
KEY
1 Theater of Herodes Atticus, 6 Two Corinthian columns are

was originally built in AD 161. the remains of choregic monuments
Restored in 1955, it is now used erected by sponsors of successful
for outdoor concerts. dramatic performances.
2 Pathway to Acropolis from 7 Panagía Spiliótissa is a
ticket office chapel set up in a cave in the
3 The Beulé Gate was the first
Acropolis rock.
entrance to the Acropolis. 8 Shrine of Asklepios
4 The Propylaia was built in 9 Stoa of Eumenes
437–432 BC to form a new entrance
0 The Acropolis rock was an
to the Acropolis. easily defended site. It has been
5 An olive tree now grows where in use for nearly 5,000 years.
Athena first planted her tree in a
competition against Poseidon.

AT H E N S  455
. Parthenon
Although few Practical Information
sculptures are left on Dionysíou Areopagítou (main
this famous temple to entrance), Pláka. Tel 210-321
Athena, some can still 0219. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
be admired, such as daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4:30pm
this one from the east daily. Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter
pediment (see p456). Sun, May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
New Acropolis Museum:
Tel 210-321 4172. Open 8am–
8pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm).
Closed Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter Sun,
May 1, Dec 25 & 26. & 8
∑ acropolisofathens.gr
Transport
q Acropolis. @ 230, 231.
Theater of
Dionysos
This figure of
Silenus, Dionysos’
tutor, can be seen
here. The theater
visible today
was built by
Lykourgos in
342–326 BC.
The Elgin Marbles

These famous sculptures, also called the Parthenon
Marbles, are held in the British Museum in London.
They were acquired from the Ottoman authorities
by Lord Elgin in 1801–3. He sold them to the
British nation for £35,000 in 1816. There is great
controversy surrounding the Marbles. While some
argue that they are more carefully preserved in the
British Museum, the Greek government does not
The newly arrived Elgin Marbles at the British Museum, in a accept the legality of the sale and believes they
painting by A. Archer belong in the Acropolis Museum in Athens.
Exploring the Acropolis figurines, and female protomes

(busts) symbolizing fertility.
Once you are through the Propylaia, the grand entrance to The Archaic Gallery show-
the site, the Parthenon exerts an overwhelming fascination. cases statues of young men,
The other fine temples on “the Rock” include the Erechtheion women, and horses, while the
and the Temple of Athena Nike. Since 1975, access to all the entire top floor is devoted to
a reconstruction of a marble
temple precincts has been banned. However, it is a miracle frieze that once ran around
that anything remains at all. The ravages of war, the removal the top of the Parthenon. The
of treasures, and pollution have all taken their irrevocable original bas-reliefs are combined
toll on the Acropolis. with crude white plaster copies
of the so-called Elgin Marbles,
removed by Lord Elgin in 1801
and now displayed in the British
Museum in London (see p455).
Around the Acropolis

The area around the Acropolis
was the center of public life in
Athens. In addition to the Agora
in the north (see p453), there were
two theaters on the southern
slope, the Theater of Herodes
Atticus and the Theater of
Dionysos. Political life was largely
centered on the Areopagos and
the Pynx Hill to the west of the
Acropolis; the Ekklesia (citizens’
The Parthenon from the southwest assembly) met on the latter,
while the former was the seat
T The Parthenon who worked on the frieze, which of the Supreme Judicial Court.
One of the world’s most famous depicted the people and horses Filopáppos Hill has always played
monuments, the Parthenon was in the Panathenaic procession. an important defensive role in
commissioned by Perikles as Despite much damage and the city’s history – a fort was built
part of his rebuilding plan. Work alterations made to adapt it to here overlooking the strategic
began in 447 BC, when the various uses, which have included Piraeus road in 294 BC. On the
sculptor Pheidias was entrusted a church, a mosque, and even Hill of the Nymphs, the
with supervising the building of an arsenal, the Parthenon 19th-century Danish-designed
a new Doric temple to Athena, remains a majestic sight today. Asteroskopeíon (Observatory)
the patron goddess of the city. occupies the site of a sanctuary
Built on the site of earlier E New Acropolis Museum dedicated to nymphs associated
temples, it was designed Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, with childbirth.
primarily to house the Parthenos, Makrygianni. Tel 210-900 0900. Open
Pheidias’s cult statue of Athena. Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm Tue–Sun (to
Taking just nine years to 10pm Fri); Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm daily
complete, the temple was (to 10pm Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun).
dedicated to the goddess in the Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1, Dec
25 & 26. ∑ theacropolismuseum.gr
course of the Great Panathenaia
festival of 438 BC. Designed and
constructed in Pentelic marble Located a short walk from the
by the architects Kallikrates and Acropolis, this ultra-modern glass,
Iktinos, the Parthenon replaces steel, and concrete building,
straight lines with slight curves. designed by the Swiss architect
It is thought that this complex Bernard Tschumi, exhibits finds
architectural style was used to from the Acropolis site.
create an illusion of perfection The ground floor is made
(see pp458–9). of partially reinforced glass,
For the pediments and the which exposes 4th century BC
friezes that ran all the way archaeological excavations
around the temple, an army below the building. Cases set
of sculptors and painters was in the walls display finds from
employed. Agorakritos and early sanctuaries on the
Alkamenes, both pupils of Acropolis, including votive The Asteroskopeíon (Observatory) on the
Pheidias, are two of the sculptors offerings such as jewelry, Hill of the Nymphs
AT H E N S  457
6 Temple of The displays start

Olympian Zeus on the first floor,
Corner of Amalías & Vasilíssis Olgas, with the Cycladic
Pláka. Tel 210-922 6330. v 2, 4, 11. collection. Dating
Open summer: 8am–7pm daily; back to the 3rd
winter: 8am–3pm daily. Closed main millennium BC, the
public hols. & 7 limited. Cycladic figurines
were found mostly
This vast temple is the largest in graves, although
in Greece, exceeding even the their exact usage
Parthenon in size. The tyrant remains a mystery.
Peisistratos allegedly initiated Ancient Greek art
the building of the temple in is exhibited on
the 6th century BC to gain the second floor
public favor. It was not and the Charles
completed until 650 years later. Polítis collection
In AD 132, the Roman of Classical and
Emperor Hadrian dedicated the Prehistoric art
temple to Zeus Olympios and on the fourth
set up a statue of the god floor. The
inside, a copy of the original by The remains of the Temple of Olympian Zeus third floor
Pheidias at Olympia (see p469). displays some
Next to it he placed a huge Neoclassical mansion, was excellent ancient Cypriot art.
statue of himself. Both statues adapted as a museum and Another wing in the adjoining
have since been lost. opened to the public in 1931. Stathátos Mansion is used for
Only 15 of the original 104 A major part of the Benáki worthwhile temporary exhibits,
columns remain, but enough collection consists of gold many unrelated to Cycladic art.
to give a sense of the once jewelry dating from as far
enormous size of this temple – back as 3000 BC. Also on
approximately 96 m (315 ft) display are icons, liturgical 9 Byzantine and
long and 40 m (130 ft) wide. silverware, Egyptian artifacts, Christian Museum
Roman-style Corinthian capitals and Greek embroideries. Vasilíssis Sofías 22. Tel 213-213 9500.
were added to the original q Evaggelismos. Open 8am–8pm
Doric columns in 174 BC.
The temple lies next to 8 Museum of daily in summer, may close earlier
in winter. & 7
Hadrian’s Arch, built in AD 131 Cycladic Art ∑ byzantinemuseum.gr
and marking the boundary Neofýtou Doúka 4 (new wing at
between the ancient city and Irodótou 1), Kolonáki. Tel 210-722 Following a 2004 revamp, this
the Roman Athens of Hadrian. 8321. v 3, 7, 8, 13. Open 10am–5pm is now one of Athens’ must-see
Wed–Mon (to 8pm Thu, from 11am museums. It features religious
Sun). Closed main public hols. artifacts from the Early Christian,
7 Benáki Museum & 7 ∑ cycladic.gr Byzantine, Medieval, post-
Corner of Koumpári & Vasilíssis Sofías, Byzantine, and later periods.
Kolonáki. Tel 210-367 1000. v 3, 7, 8, A magnificent selection of Treasures on display include a
13. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun (to ancient Greek art, including reconstructed frescoed church
midnight Thu & Sat, to 3pm Sun). the world’s most important from inland Attikí and the gold
Closed public hols. & except Thu. collection of Cycladic Hoard of Mytilene, which was
7 limited. ∑ benaki.gr figurines, is on view at abandoned during 7th-century
this modern museum. Saracen raids.
This museum contains a superb
collection of Greek art and crafts,
jewelry, regional costumes, and
political memorabilia from the
Neolithic era to the 20th century.
It was founded by Antónios
Benákis (1873–1954), who was
interested in Greek, Persian,
Egyptian, and Ottoman art from
an early age and started collect-
ing while living in Alexandria.
On moving to Athens in 1926,
he donated his collection to
the Greek state. The family
home, an elegant 19th-century Byzantine icon of St. Elijah at the Byzantine & Christian Museum
Temple Architecture
Temples were the most important public buildings in
ancient Greece, largely because religion was a central
part of everyday life. Often placed in prominent
positions, temples were also statements about
political and divine power. The earliest temples, in
the 8th century BC, were built of wood and sun-dried
The Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens
bricks. Many of their features were copied in marble
buildings from the 6th century BC onward.
The cult statue was of the
The cella, or inner sanctum, god or goddess to whom the
Temple housed the cult statue. temple was dedicated.
Construction The pediment,
This drawing is of an triangular in shape,
idealized Doric temple, often held sculpture.
showing how it was
both built and used.
Fluting on the
columns was carved
in situ, guided by that on
A ramp led up to the the top and bottom drums.
temple entrance.
The column drums were
The stepped platform was initially carved with bosses
built on a stone foundation. for lifting them into place.
The Illusion of Perfection

Every aspect of the Parthenon was built on a 9:4 ratio to The base of the
temple is higher in
make the temple completely symmetrical. The sculptors
the middle than at
also used visual trickery to counteract the laws of the edges.
perspective. The illustration (right) is exaggerated
to show the techniques they employed.
Entasis (a bulge in
the middle) makes each
4
9 column look straight.
4
Each column leans
9 slightly inward.
GREECE  459
The gable ends of the The Development of Temple Architecture

roof were surmounted by Greek temple architecture is divided into three styles, which evolved
statues, known as akroteria, chronologically, and are most easily distinguished by the column capitals.
in this case of a Nike or
“Winged Victory”. Almost
no upper portions of Doric temples were surrounded by sturdy
Greek temples survive. columns with plain capitals and no bases.
As the earliest style of stone buildings, they
The roof was recall wooden prototypes.
supported on Guttae imitated the
wooden beams Triangular pediment filled pegs for fastening the
and covered in with sculpture wooden roof beams.
rows of terra-cotta
tiles, each ending Triglyphs
in an upright resembled
antefix. the ends
of cross
beams.
Metopes
could Doric
contain capital
sculpture.
Ionic temples differed from Doric in their Akroteria, at the roof

tendency to have more columns, of a corners, could look
different form. The capital has a pair of Persian in style.
volutes, like rams’ horns, front and back.
The Ionic architrave

The frieze was a was subdivided into
continuous band projecting bands.
of decoration.
The
Ionic
frieze
Stone blocks were took the
smoothly fitted together place of
and held by metal Doric
clamps and dowels: no triglyphs
mortar was used in the and
temple’s construction. metopes.
The ground plan was Ionic

derived from the megaron capital
of the Mycenaean house:
a rectangular hall with a
front porch that was Corinthian temples in Greece were built under The pediment
supported by columns. was decorated
the Romans in Athens, Corinth, and Kos. They
feature columns with slender shafts and elaborate with a variety
of moldings.
Caryatids, capitals decorated with acanthus leaves.
or figures Akroterion in the shape of a griffin
of women,
The entablature was
were used The cella
everything above
instead of entrance was at
the capitals.
columns the east end.
in the
Erechtheion
at Athens’
Acropolis.
In Athens’
Agora (see
p453), tritons
(fish-tailed
sons of Acanthus
Poseidon) leaf capital
were used.
Central Greece with the remains of an ancient

sanctuary of Apollo, which had
Beyond the endless urban sprawl of Athens, the vast expanse occupied the site until it was
of central Greece has a little of everything for the visitor, from destroyed in AD 395. In the early
sandy beaches and fishing ports, to one of the country’s most 13th century, Otto de la Roche,
important archaeological sites, Ancient Delphi. Not to be the first Frankish Duke of Athens,
missed is the Byzantine splendor of the monasteries of Dafní bequeathed it to Cistercian
monks in Burgundy. Greek
and Osios Loúkas, while the extraordinary mountain-top
Orthodox monks took the site in
monasteries of Metéora are another of the region’s principal the 16th century, erecting the
attractions. The beautiful wooded mountain slopes of the elegant cloisters just south of
Pílio offer some of the best scenery on the mainland. the church. The monastery is
currently being restored, due to
an earthquake which hit in 2000.
Among the monastery’s
principal attractions are the
beautiful gold-leaf Byzantine
mosaics in the katholikón (main
church). Byzantine church
architecture was concerned
almost exclusively with
decoration. Mosaics and
frescoes portraying the whole
body of the Church, from Christ
downward, had a dual purpose:
they gave inspiration to
worshipers and represented
windows to the spiritual world.
The most impressive mosaics
The Temple of Poseidon on the cape at Soúnio at Dafní are the Esonarthex
Mosaics, which include the
2 Soúnio Byron, carved his name on one Last Supper, the Washing of the
of the columns, setting an Feet, and the Betrayal of Judas.
9 km (5.5 miles) S of Lávrio, Attica.
unfortunate precedent of Equally magnificent, the Christ
Tel 22920-39363. @ to Lávrio.
Open summer: 8am–sunset daily;
vandalism at the temple. Pantokrátor is a mosaic of Christ
winter: 9:30am–sunset daily. & the Judge that fills the church’s
3 Monastery of huge dome.
The temple of Poseidon,
Dafní
situated at the top of sheer 4 Monastery of
cliffs tumbling into the Aegean 10 km (6 miles) NW of Athens, Attica.
Sea at Soúnio (Cape Sounion), Tel 210-581 1558. @ Open Osios Loúkas
was ideally located as a place 9am–2pm Tue & Fri. 7 limited. 8 km (5 miles) E of Dístomo, Stereá
to worship the powerful god Elláda. Tel 22670-22228. @
of the sea. Its brilliant white Taking its present form during Open 8am–6pm daily. &
marble columns have been a the 11th century AD, the
landmark for ancient and Monastery of Dafní is named Dedicated to a local hermit and
modern mariners alike. after the laurels (dáfnes) that healer, Osios Loúkas (“Holy
The present temple, built in once grew here. It was built Luke”), who died in 953 AD, this
444 BC, stands on the site of splendid monastery was one of
older ruins. An Ionic frieze, made medieval Greece’s most
from 13 slabs of Parian marble, is important buildings architect-
located on the east side of the urally. It was built around AD
temple’s main approach path. 1011 during the reign of
It is very eroded, but is known Emperor Basil II, extending an
to have depicted scenes from earlier church dating from 944.
mythological battles, as well The octagonal style of the main
as the adventures of the hero church, the katholikón, became
Theseus, said in some legends a hallmark of late Byzantine
to be the son of Poseidon. church design, while the
Marble from the quarries at mosaics inside lifted Byzantine
Agriléza was used for the temple’s art into its final great period.
34 slender Doric columns, of Among the most impressive
which 15 survive today. In 1810 The 5th-century Byzantine Monastery of features of the monastery are
the British Romantic poet, Lord Dafní, near Athens the 10th-century crypt, which is
GREECE  461
the remains visible today date

from the 4th century BC.
Leading from the sanctuary
entrance to the Temple of
Apollo is the Sacred Way, once
lined with some 3,000 statues
and treasuries. Also worth
seeing is the well-preserved
Stadium. The present structure
dates from Roman times, and
most of the seating is still intact.
The Marmaria (“marble
quarry”) Precinct is where the
Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia
Detail from an 11th-century mosaic in the is found. Here, the most
Monastery of Osios Loúkas remarkable monument is the
tholos, which dates from the
from the original church and 4th century BC. The purpose Traditional-style guesthouses in the Pílio
contains the sarcophagus of of this circular structure, village of Vyzítsa
Holy Luke, and a mosaic originally surrounded by 20
entitled Washing of the Apostles’ columns, remains a mystery. Crusaders and the Ottomans.
Feet. This 11th-century work, The museum at Ancient After centuries of protecting its
based on a style dating back to Delphi houses an impressive culture, the Pílio is known for its
the 6th century, is the finest of collection of sculptures and strong local cuisine.
a number of mosaics found in architectural remains. The gateway town to the
the narthex, the western peninsula is Vólos, which has
entrance hall. On the squinches an excellent Archaeological
supporting the main dome,
6 Pílio Museum. From here you can
other fine mosaics of the same Thessaly. @ Vólos. £ n Plateía Riga make a tour of the many
period include The Nativity Feraíou, Vólos (24210-23500). traditional hillside villages and
and The Baptism. fishing ports. Worth visiting are
The Pilio Peninsula is one of the Miliés, with its Folk Museum
most beautiful areas of the and fresco-adorned church,
5 Ancient Delphi mainland. The mountain air is and picturesque Vyzítsa.
Mount Parnassus, Stereá Elláda. sweet with the scent of herbs, Argalastí is the largest
Tel 22650-82313. @ Open 8am–7pm which in ancient times were settlement in the south of the
daily (winter: to 3pm). Closed main renowned for their healing peninsula. For fine sandy
public hols. & 7 properties. The area became beaches and excellent seafood,
populated in the 13th century visit the popular coastal resorts
In ancient times, Delphi was by Greeks retreating from Latin of Plataniás or Agios Ioánnis.
believed to be the center of the
earth. The site was renowned as
a dwelling place of Apollo, and
from the late 8th century BC
people came here to worship
and seek advice from the god.
With the political rise of Delphi
in the 6th century BC, and the
establishment of the Pythian
Games – a cultural, religious,
and athletic festival – the site
entered a golden age that
lasted until the arrival of the
Romans in 191 BC. The Delphic
Oracle was abolished in AD 393
after Christianity was introduced
as the state religion.
The Sanctuary of Apollo, also
known as the Sacred Precinct,
forms the heart of the complex,
and one of its most impressive
sights is the Temple of Apollo.
A temple has stood on this spot
since the 6th century BC, but The tholos beside the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia at Ancient Delphi
7 Metéora
The extraordinary sandstone towers of Metéora (or “suspended
rocks”) were formed by the action of the sea that covered the
plain of Thessaly around 30 million years ago. The huge columns
of rock were first used as a religious retreat in AD 985, when a
hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave here. In the mid-14th
century, Neílos, the Prior of Stagai convent, built a small church.
A few years later, in 1382, the monk Athanásios, from Mount
Athos, founded the huge monastery of Megálo Metéoro on one
of the many pinnacles. A further 23 monasteries were built,
though most had fallen into ruin by the 19th century. In the
1920s, stairs were cut in the rock faces to make the remaining
six monasteries more accessible, and today a religious revival
has seen an increase in the number of monks and nuns.
MEGALO
METEORO
VARLAAM
AGIOS
NIKOLAOS ROUSANOU
Kalampáka
AGIA TRIADA
AGIOS STEFANOS
Kalampáka
Location of Monasteries of Metéora
Rousánou
Moní Rousánou,
perched precariously
on the very tip of a
narrow spire of rock,
is the most spectacularly
located of all the
monasteries. Its church
of the Metamórfosis
(1545) is renowned for
its harrowing frescoes of
grisly martyrdoms,
painted in 1560 by
iconographers of the
Cretan school.
KEY
1 Outer walls
2 Monastic cells
3 The refectory contains a small
icon museum.
4 Net descending from tower
Megálo Metéoro
Also known as the Great Meteoron, this was
the first and, at 623 m (2,045 ft), highest
monastery to be founded. By the entrance
is a cave in which Athanásios first lived.
His body is buried in the main church.
GREECE  463
Katholikón VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Dedicated to
Agioi Pántes Practical Information
(All Saints), the Kalampáka. n Pindou &
church is adorned Ioannínon streets (24320-78000).
with frescoes, Megálo Metéoro: Tel 24320-
including one of 75398. Open summer: Wed–Mon;
Theofánis (right) winter: Thu–Mon. Varlaám:
and Nektários, Tel 24320-22277. Open summer:
its founders. Sat–Thu; winter: Sat–Wed. Agíou
Nikoláou: Open Sat–Thu.
Rousánou: Tel 24320-22649.
Open Thu–Tue. Agías Triádas:
Tel 24320-22220. Open summer:
Fri–Wed; winter: Fri–Tue. Agíou
Stefánou: Tel 24320-22279.
Open Tue–Sun. All monasteries:
Closed 1–3pm. & 5 Agías
Triádas & Agíou Stefánou.
Transport
@
Ascent Tower
Goods and
people were
brought to the
top of the rock
in a net that
was pulled up
by a winch
mechanism,
made in 1536.
Varlaam
Founded in 1518, the monastery of
Varlaám is named after the first hermit to
Entrance live on this rock in 1350. The katholikón
(main church) was built in 1542 and
contains frescoes by the Theban
iconographer Frágkos Katelános.
The Building of
the Monasteries
Though it is unknown how the first
hermits at Metéora reached the tops
of these often vertical rock faces, it is
likely that they hammered pegs into
tiny gaps in the rock and hauled
building materials to the summits.
Another theory is that kites were
flown over the tops, carrying strings
attached to thicker ropes, which
were made into the first rope ladders.
How the ladders were anchored to
the rock is uncertain.
Northern Greece should also make time to see

the museum’s stunning
Northern Greece offers an appealing combination of collection of Macedonian gold.
comparatively unexplored natural beauty and a rich cultural Visitors should not miss the
heritage. The stunning scenery of places like Mount Olympos city’s rich array of UNESCO-listed
holds special appeal to walking enthusiasts, while of historical Byzantine churches, which
include the 5th-century Agios
interest in the region are several ancient archaeological Dimítrios – the largest church
sites, including Pélla, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. in Greece. Dating from the mid-
Many of northern Greece’s finest examples of Byzantine 8th century, Agía Sofía is an
architecture and art are to be found on the Athos Peninsula important building, both for
and in the bustling city of Thessaloníki. its mosaics and for its role in
influencing future architectural
AD 303 by the Emperor development, while the
Galerius to celebrate 14th-century Agios Nikólaos
victory over the Persians, Orfanós contains the best-
and is the principal preserved collection of late
architectural legacy of Byzantine frescoes in the city.
Roman rule. Standing
north of the arch is the E Archaeological Museum
Rotónda, believed to have Manóli Androníkou & Leof Stratoú.
been constructed as a Tel 2310-830538. @ 3. Open
mausoleum for Galerius. summer: 8am–8pm daily; winter:
Open daily, it has been 10am–5pm Mon, 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
used in the past as both Closed main public hols. & 7
∑ amth.gr
a church and a mosque.
Thessaloníki has a
number of museums,
including the Museum of
9 Ancient Pélla
Byzantine Culture and 38 km (24 miles) NW of Thessaloníki.
the Folk and Ethnological Tel 23820-32963. @ Open daily.
Museum, housed in an Closed main public hols. & 7
ornate, 1906-built mansion.
The 15th-century White Tower on the The star attractions at the This small site was once the
waterfront in Thessaloníki city’s Archaeological flourishing capital of
Museum are the Roman Macedonia. The court was
8 Thessaloníki floor mosaics, and the splendid moved here from Aigai (near
* 690,670. k 25 km (15 miles)
Dervéni Krater, a 4th-century BC modern Vergína) in 410 BC by
SE. g £ @ n 136 Tsimiski bronze wine-mixing bowl. You King Archelaos, who ruled from
(2310-221100).
Thessaloníki, also known as The Macedonian Royal Family

Salonika, is Greece’s second The gold burial casket found at Vergína is emblazoned with the
city, and was founded by King Macedonian Sun, the symbol of the king. Philip II was from a
Kassandros in 315 BC. The capital long line of Macedonian kings that began in about 660 BC with
of the Roman province of Perdiccas I. Philip was the first ruler to unite the whole of Greece as
Macedonia Prima from 146 BC, it existed at that time. Much of Greece’s pride in the symbol lies in
it later became part of the the fact that Alexander the Great used it throughout his empire. He
Byzantine Empire. In 1430 it was was just 20 when his father was assassinated in 336 BC. He inherited
captured by the Turks, who held his father’s already large empire and also his ambition to conquer
it until 1912. Today Thessaloníki the Persians. In 334 BC,
is a bustling cosmopolitan city Alexander crossed the
Dardanelles with 40,000
and a major cultural center.
men and defeated the
On the paralía, the city’s
Persians in three different
attractive waterfront, stands battles, advancing as
one of Thessaloníki’s most far as the Indus Valley
famous sights, the White before he died at
Tower. Built in 1430, this is the age of 33. With his
one of three towers that death, the Macedonian
were added to the city walls empire divided.
by the Turks. Today it houses
a permanent exhibition Gold burial casket from the
tracing the city’s history. The Royal Tombs at Vergína
Arch of Galerius was built in
GREECE  465
Athos Pilgrims’ Bureau in

Thessaloníki (Egnatías 109,
www.agioritikiestia.gr) up to six
months in advance; the final
permit is collected in person in
Ouranópoli, and grants a stay of
up to four nights. Accom-
modations are free, though
donations are expected.
q Mount Olympos
17 km (10 miles) W of Litóchoro.
@ Litóchoro. n EOS: Evángelou
Karavákou 20, Litóchoro (23520-
The Russian Orthodox monastery Agíou Panteleímonos, on Mount Athos 83000). ∑ olympusfd.gr
413 to 399 BC. It is here that provide a fascinating insight The name Mount Olympos
Alexander the Great was born in into Orthodox monastic life. refers to a whole range of
356 BC, and was later tutored by For the monks who live here, mountains, 20 km (12 miles)
the philosopher Aristotle. Some the day begins at 3 or 4am with across. The highest peak in the
sense of the existence of a city morning services and prayers. range is Mytikas, at 2,917 m
can be gained from a plan of They eat two meals a day. There (9,570 ft). The entire area
the site, which shows where the are 159 fasting days in the year. constitutes the Olympos
main street and stores were Between meals, the monks National Park, an area of out-
located. The palace, believed to spend their time working, standing natural beauty that
have been north of the main resting, and praying. attracts naturalists and walkers
site, is still being excavated. Ouranoúpoli is the main town alike. The park’s rich flora and
At the site, and in the of secular Athos and where boat fauna include 1,700 plant
museum, are some of the best- trips for the peninsula’s west coast species, in addition to chamois,
preserved pebble mosaics in start. Among the monasteries boars, and roe deer. From
Greece. Dating from about that can be viewed are the Litóchoro, which has several
300 BC, the mosaics depict vivid 10th-century Docheiaríou, Agíou hotels and tavernas, walkers
hunting scenes. One of the most Panteleímonos, an 11th-century can follow a series of trails.
famous is of Dionysos riding a Russian Orthodox monastery, and A short distance from
panther; it is housed in the now- Agíou Pávlou. On the east Litóchoro is Ancient Dion,
covered, 4th-century BC House coast, Megístis Lávras was the considered a holy city by the
of the Lion Hunt. Originally first monastery to be founded ancient Macedonians. The flat
comprising 12 rooms around on Athos, while 10th-century plains were used as a military
three open courtyards, this Vatopedíou, farther north, is camp by King Philip II of
building was constructed at one of the largest and best- Macedon in the 4th century BC.
the end of the 4th century BC. preserved buildings. Adult The ruins visible today – which
males wishing to visit any of the include mosaics, baths, and a
monasteries must obtain a theater – date mainly from the
0 Mount Athos written entrance permit from Roman era. A museum shows
Athos Peninsula. g Dáfni (boat the Holy Executive of the Mount finds from the site.
trips from Ouranoúpoli & Sithonía
peninsula for the west coast, or from
Ierissós for the east coast). @ to
Karyés. & donation.
Also known as the Holy

Mountain, Mount Athos is the
highest point on the Athos
Peninsula – an autonomous
republic, ruled by the 1,700
monks who live in its 20
monasteries. Only adult males
may visit the peninsula, but
it is possible to see many
of the monasteries from a boat
trip along the coast. They
include some fine examples
of Byzantine architecture and The peaks of the Mount Olympos range rising above Litóchoro
The Peloponnese buildings preserved by the

Romans when they rebuilt the
One of the primary strongholds and battlefields of the city in 44 BC. Of the Temple of
1821–31 Revolution, the Peloponnese is the kernel from which Octavia, once dedicated to the
the modern Greek state grew. The region boasts a wealth of sister of Emperor Augustus,
ancient and medieval ruins, from Bronze Age Mycenae to three ornate Corinthian
columns, overarched by a
the Byzantine town of Mystrás. As popular as its vast array restored architrave, are all that
of historical sites is the Peloponnese’s spectacularly varied remain. The Odeion is one of
landscape. The breathtaking scenery of places like the Loúsios several buildings endowed to
Gorge attracts walkers and naturalists in their thousands. the city by Herodes Atticus, the
wealthy Athenian and friend of
of the Roman the Emperor Hadrian.
emperors, the Close to the Odeion, the
town gained a Museum houses a collection of
reputation for exhibits representing all periods
licentious living, of the town’s history. The Roman
which St. Paul gallery is particularly rich,
attacked when containing some spectacular
he came here 2nd-century AD mosaics lifted
in AD 52. from the floors of nearby villas.
Excavations have Just 4 km (2 miles) south of
revealed the vast Ancient Corinth is the bastion
The ruins of Acrocorinth, south of Ancient Corinth extent of the of Acrocorinth, to which there
ancient city, is access between 8:30am and
w Ancient Corinth which was destroyed by 3pm each day. Held and
7 km (4 miles) SW of modern Corinth. earthquakes in Byzantine times. refortified by every occupying
Tel 27410-31207. @ Open 8am–8pm The ruins constitute the largest power in Greece from Roman
daily (winter: to 3pm). Closed main Roman township in Greece. times onward, it was one of
public hols. & 7 limited. Among the most impressive the country’s most important
remains are the Lechaion Way, fortresses in medieval times.
A settlement since Neolithic the marble-paved road that The ruins show evidence of
times, Ancient Corinth was linked the nearby port of Byzantine, Turkish, Frankish,
razed in 146 BC by the Romans, Lechaion with the city, and the and Venetian occupation. The
who rebuilt it a century later. Temple of Apollo, with its summit of Acrocorinth affords
Attaining a population of striking Doric columns. The one of the most sweeping
750,000 under the patronage temple was one of the few views in the whole of Greece.
Reconstruction of Ancient Northwest stoa

Corinth (c.AD 100) Temple of Octavia
Agora
Odeion
South stoa
Theater
Basilica
Temple of
Lechaion Way Apollo

GREECE  467
of interest at the site are the t Náfplio

remains of the Royal Palace, * 14,200. £ @ n Inside Town
the Secret Stairway, which Hall, Vasiléos Konstantínou (27520-
leads down to a cistern deep 24444).
beneath the citadel, and the
13th-century BC Lion Gate, the One of the most elegant towns
grand entrance to Mycenae. in mainland Greece, Náfplio
emerged in the 13th century
and later endured many sieges
r Epidaurus during the struggles between
30 km (19 miles) E of Náfplio. the Turks and the Venetians for
Tel 27530-22009. @ Open 8am–8pm the ports of the Peloponnese.
daily (to 5pm Nov–Mar). Closed main From 1829 to 1834, it was the
public hols. & 7 limited. 8 first capital of liberated Greece.
A number of fortifications
Active from the 6th century BC testify to the town’s checkered
until at least the 2nd century history. The island fortress of
AD, the Sanctuary of Epidaurus Boúrtzi is a legacy of the
was an extensive therapeutic second Venetian occupation
and religious center, dedicated (1686–1715). Akronafplía, also
Interior of the tomb known as the Treasury to the healing god Asklepios. known as Its Kale (“Inner Castle”
of Atreus, at Mycenae The site is most renowned for in Turkish), was the site of the
its magnificent Theater, whose Byzantine and early medieval
e Mycenae cavea (cavity) is 114 m (374 ft) town, while the Venetian citadel
across and surrounds a 20 m of Palamídi was built between
2 km (1 mile) N of Mykínes. Tel 27510-
76585. @ to Mykínes. Open daily.
(66 ft) diameter orchestra (stage). 1711 and 1714.
Closed main public hols. & 7 Designed in the late 4th century The Plateía Syntágmatos, the
Treasury of Atreus and museum only. BC, the theater is well known for hub of public life, looks much
near-perfect acoustics, and has as it did three centuries ago,
Discovered in 1874, the fortified the only circular orchestra to when two mosques were built
palace complex of Mycenae is an have survived from antiquity. by the victorious Ottomans.
early example of sophisticated Today, it is the venue for an These are now the cathedral,
citadel architecture. The annual summer festival of Agios Geórgios, and the
Mycenaeans were a Bronze Age ancient drama. Catholic church.
culture that existed between Most of the Asklepieion, The town has two museums
1700 and 1100 BC. Only the or Sanctuary of Asklepios, is of note: the award-winning
ruling class inhabited the currently being re-excavated. Folk Art Museum, and the
palace, with artisans and Accessible remains include Archaeological Museum,
merchants living outside the the propylaia, or monumental which houses mainly local
city walls. The citadel was gateway, a late Classical pre-Mycenaean artifacts.
abandoned in 1100 BC after stadium, and the tholos – a Located 4 km (2 miles) outside
much disruption in the region. circular building, thought to Náfplio, the 12th-century convent
The tombs at Mycenae are have been used either as a of Agía Moní is worth visiting.
one of the most famous pit for sacred serpents, or as
attractions of the site. The city’s the setting for religious rites. E Archaeological Museum
nobles were entombed in shaft Of Asklepios’s temple, to the Plateía Syntágmatos. Tel 27520-27502.
graves, such as those at Grave east of the tholos, only the Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Circle A, or, later, in tholos foundations have survived. Closed main public hols.
(“beehive”) tombs, so-called
because of their shape. The
tholos tombs, found outside
the palace walls, were buried
under an earth mound, the
only entrance being via a
dromos, or open-air corridor. The
14th-century BC Treasury of
Atreus is the most outstanding
of the tholos tombs. Here a
Mycenaean king was buried
with his weapons and enough
food and drink for his journey to
the underworld. The so-called
Tomb of Klytemnestra is
equally well preserved. Also The fortified isle of Boúrtzi, north of Náfplio harbor
u Máni Peninsula Kelefá Castle. Visitors to Inner

Máni should also see the Pýrgos
g Gýtheio. @ Kalamáta (Outer Máni),
Diroú cave system, and the
Areópoli (Inner Máni). n Vasiléos
many Byzantine churches
Georgiou 20, Gýtheio (27330-24484).
scattered along the west coast.
The harsh and remote Máni Built between the 10th and
Peninsula is divided into two 14th centuries, the finest
areas, Outer Máni and Inner churches include Taxiarchón, at
Máni, separated by a ravine at Charoúda, Agios Theódoros, at
Oítylo. The area is most famous Vámvaka, and, near Ano Mpoul-
for its history of internal feuding, árioi village, Agios Panteleímon,
which led to the building of containing 10th-century
many fine tower houses. From frescoes. Overlooking the sea
the 15th century, rival clansmen, and Cape Taínaro, Vátheia is
fighting over the inadequate one of the most dramatically
land, used the towers to shoot located of the villages in the
The cliff-top church of Agía Sofía, at their opponents. After years Máni. It is worth visiting just
Monemvasía upper town of bloodshed, the clans finally to see its collection of
united, instigating the Greek tower houses.
Independence uprising in 1821.
y Monemvasía The main places of interest in
* 1420. g @ n 27320-61210. more fertile Outer Máni are
Oítylo, with its elegant 19th-
This fortified town is built on century mansions, and Karda-
two levels on a rock rising 350 m mýli, the lair of the Troupákis
(1,150 ft) above the sea. A town family, one of the most
of 50,000 in its 15th-century important Maniot clans. In the
halcyon days, Monemvasía was environs of Kardamýli are the
for centuries a semi-autonomous stunning Vyrós Gorge, and
city-state, which prospered Stoúpa, popular for its two
thanks to its strategic position sandy bays. Mount Taÿgetos is
astride the sea lanes from Italy one of the area’s beauty spots,
to the Black Sea. After a and can offer several days of
protracted siege, the town was wilderness trekking for the
finally surrendered by the experienced and well-equipped.
Ottomans in 1821 during the In Inner Máni, bustling
War of Independence. Gýtheio is one of the most
In the restored lower town, attractive coastal towns in the
enclosed by the formidable southern Peloponnese. Its Ruins of the Despots’ Palace in the
16th-century walls, are a number 18th-century fortress houses the Byzantine town of Mystrás
of mosques and churches. They Museum of the Máni. Areópoli,
include the 18th-century “the city of Ares” (god of war), i Mystrás
Panagía Myrtidióssa and the was where the Maniot uprising 5 km (3 miles) W of Spárti. Tel 27310-
13th-century cathedral, Christós against the Turks was declared 83377. @ to Néos Mystrás. Open daily.
Elkómenos, with its Venetian by Pétros Mavromichális. Nearby Closed main public hols. &
belfry. Also found in the lower is the 17th-century Ottoman
town is Giánnis Rítsos’s House, Majestic Mystrás occupies a
where this prominent 20th- panoramic site on a spur of
century Greek poet and com- the severe Taÿgetos range.
munist was born, and his grave. Founded by the Franks in 1249,
The upper town, which the town soon passed to the
lies largely in ruins, has been Byzantines, under whom it
uninhabited since 1911. It attained a population of 20,000
was first fortified in the 6th and, after 1348, became the
century, and is the oldest part seat of the Despots of Morea.
of Monemvasía. Here, the most The despotate acted semi-
impressive sight is the still- independently and, by the
intact, cliff-top church of Agía 15th century, Mystrás had
Sofía, founded by Emperor become the last major
Andronikos II (1282–1328) and Byzantine cultural center,
modeled on the Monastery attracting scholars and artists
of Dafní (see p460). Visitors from Italy, Constantinople, and
can also see the remains of Fishing boats moored in Gýtheio harbor in Serbia. One result was the
a 13th-century fortress. Inner Máni uniquely cosmopolitan
GREECE  469
decoration of Mystrás’s churches,

whose pastel-colored frescoes,
crowded with detail, reflect
Italian Renaissance influence.
Now in ruins, Mystrás consists
of an upper and lower town,
with a wealth of churches,
monasteries, palaces, and houses
lining its narrow streets. Among
the churches and monasteries
worth visiting are Mitrópoli – the
oldest church in Mystrás, dating
from 1291– Moní Perivléptou,
from 1310, and Moní
Pantánassas, from 1428. The
Vrontóchion, a 13th-century
monastic complex, was the
cultural heart of medieval
Mystrás. Visitors can also explore
the ruins of the Despots’ Palace,
and the Kástro, an impressive Remains of the Palaestra, or training center, at Ancient Olympia
fortification that crowns the
summit of the upper town, and which include several churches the coming of the Dorians, at
affords views of the entire site. and monasteries clinging to the the beginning of the first
steep cliffs of the gorge. Of millennium BC. They brought
these, the most impressive are the worship of Zeus, after whose
o Loúsios Gorge Moní Aimyalón, founded in abode on Mount Olympos the
@ Dimitsána. All monasteries 1605 and containing some site was named. Olympia
Open dawn to dusk daily. Moní magnificent frescoes, the 17th- reached its zenith in the 5th
Aimyalón Closed 2–5pm. century Néa Moní Filosófou, century BC, but by the end of
and the 10th-century Moní the reign of Roman Emperor
Although merely a tributary of Agíou Ioánnou Prodrómou, Hadrian (AD 117–38), it had
the Alfeiós River, the Loúsios wedged into the canyon’s east begun to have less religious and
stream boasts one of the most flank. Occupying a sunken political significance. The first
impressive canyons in Greece. excavation on the stream’s Olympian Games, the forerunner
Scarcely 5 km (3 miles) long, the west bank is the Asklepieion, of the Olympic Games, took
Loúsios Gorge is nearly 300 m or therapeutic center, of place here in 776 BC, but were
(985 ft) deep at its narrowest Ancient Gortys. On this site lie banned in AD 393 by Emperor
section. A number of hiking trails the foundations of a 4th- Theodosius I, who took a dim
connect the area’s highlights, century BC temple to Asklepios, view of the pagan festival.
the god of healing. Accessible The most important ruins
from here, or by road from include the 5th-century BC Doric
Karýtaina, the cliffside Temple of Zeus, of which only
monastery of Palaioú Kalamioú column bases and tumbled
has excellent frescoes. sections remain, and the partly
Overlooking the gorge, reconstructed Palaestra, which
the beautiful hillside towns was a training center for athletes.
of Dimitsána, Karýtaina, and In Pheidias’s Workshop, a huge
Stemnítsa make good bases statue of Zeus was sculpted in
from which to explore the area. the 5th century BC.
Also not to be missed is the
Archaeological Museum, one of
p Ancient Olympia the richest museums in Greece,
Tel 26240-22517. £ @ Open May– with exhibits from prehistory,
Oct: 8am–sunset Mon–Fri; weekends through to the Classical period
& Nov–Apr: earlier closure. Closed and the Roman era. The central
main public hols. & hall houses the pediment and
metope sculpture from the
The sanctuary of Olympia Temple of Zeus. The Hermes of
enjoyed over 1,000 years of Praxiteles has a niche to itself.
renown as a religious and
athletics center. Though it E Archaeological Museum
Moní Agíou Ioánnou Prodrómou in the flourished in Mycenaean times, Tel 26240-22742. Open daily. Closed
Loúsios Gorge its historic importance dates to main public hols. & 8 7
a Corfu and the Ionian Islands

The Ionian Islands are the greenest and most fertile of all the Corfu
• Corfu town
island groups. Lying off the west coast of mainland Greece,
they have been greatly influenced by Western Europe. Periods
of rule by the Venetians, French, and British have left their
mark on many of the islands, especially in the mixed Kefalloniá
architecture of places like Corfu town. The Ionians first became Athens
a holiday destination during the Roman era, and today their Zákynthos
beaches remain one of their most popular attractions.
Locator Map
The Palace of St. Michael
and St. George was built
by the British between Also worth seeing are the
1819 and 1824 to serve Town Hall – a grand Venetian
as the residence of a high building located in the Plateía
commissioner. Used for a Dimarcheíou – the Byzantine
short time by the Greek Museum, and the fascinating
royal family after the British Archaeological Museum. The
left the island, the palace is latter’s centerpiece is a stunning
now home to the eclectic Gorgon frieze.
Museum of Asiatic Art. On the town’s eastern side
The palace overlooks the stands the 16th-century
Esplanade, or Spianáda, a Venetian-built Old Fortress,
mixture of park and town which affords magnificent views
square, and the site of the over the town and along the
cricket ground. Once a island’s east coast. The New
The elegant parade of cafés known as the Venetian firing range, the Fortress was built shortly after
Liston in Corfu town cricket pitch was developed the old one to strengthen the
by the British, though it is no town’s defenses.
Corfu longer in use. Nearby, the Enosis
* 104,000. k 3 km (1.5 miles) S of Monument commemorates the P Palace of St. Michael
Corfu town. g Xenofóntos Stratigoú, 1864 union of the Ionian Islands and St. George
Corfu town. @ n Plateía Saróko. with the rest of Greece. The Palaia Anaktora. Tel 26610-30443.
Liston, a parade of cafés that Open 8am–8pm (to 3pm in winter)
Corfu offers the diverse was built in 1807 as a copy of the Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
attractions of secluded coves, Rue de Rivoli in Paris, lines one
bustling resorts, and traditional side of the square. Northern Corfu
hill villages. Between 229 BC Another of the town’s most Northern Corfu, in particular
and AD 337 it was part of the famous sights, the distinctive the northeast coast, is a busy
Roman empire. It remained red-domed belfry of Agios vacation destination, which
under Byzantine rule until the Spyrídon is the tallest belfry on boasts a whole host of popular
14th century, when the Corfu. The church was built in resorts and beaches. Set around
Venetians took control. French 1589 and dedicated to the a fishing harbor, Kassiópi has
and British occupation followed, island’s patron saint. retained its character in spite
before unification with Greece
in 1864. Though the island is
most popular for its beaches,
inland there are many places
where you can still observe
the traditional lifestyle of the
Corfiot people.
Corfu Town
The checkered history of the
island is reflected in Corfu
town’s varied architecture.
With its grand French-style
colonnades, elegant Italianate
buildings, and famous cricket
pitch, the town is a delightful
blend of European influences. The multiple picturesque bays of Palaiokastrítsa in northern Corfu
THE GREEK ISLANDS  471
stunning scenery. Mount

Aínos and the Mount Aínos
National Park, in the south,
and the haunting, subterranean
Melissaní Cave-Lake are sights
not to be missed. Fiskárdo,
with its 18th-century Venetian
houses clustered by the harbor,
is Kefalloniá’s prettiest village.
From here ferries go to
Lefkáda; services to Ithaca
depart from Sámi or Póros.
Zákynthos
Vacation apartments at Fiskárdo on the island of Kefalloniá * 40,000. k 4 km (2.5 miles) S of
Zákynthos town. g Zákynthos town,
of the influx of tourists. Nearby of Austria (1837–98). After a tour Agios Nikólaos. @ Zákynthos town.
are the ruins of a 13th-century of the palace and its gardens, n Lomvárdou St, Zákynthos town
castle, and the church of visit the Vasilákis Tastery (26950-25428).
Kassiopítra, which occupies the opposite, and sample this local
site of a former temple of Zeus. distiller’s kumquat liqueur. Zákynthos is an attractive
The bustling vacation center and green island, with good
of Sidári is famous for its sandy P Achílleion Palace beaches and beautiful scenery
beaches and unusual rock 10 km (7 miles) SW of Corfu town. @ to be enjoyed.
formations, while picturesque Tel 26610-56210. Open daily. Zákynthos town is the point
Palaiokastrítsa has safe of arrival on the island. Here, the
swimming and water sports, impressive church of Agios
as well as boat trips to nearby Kefalloniá Dionysios, and the Byzantine
grottoes. Vacationers wanting * 35,000. k 9 km (6 miles) S of Museum, which houses a
a diversion from the busy Argostóli. g Argostóli, Fiskárdo. breathtaking array of frescoes,
resort atmosphere can visit @ Ioánnou Metaxá, Argostóli. n both deserve a visit.
the 17th-century monastery, Waterfront, Argostóli (26710-22248). The growth of tourism on
Moní Theotókou. Zákynthos has been heavily
Mount Pantokrátor, a short The largest island in the Ionians, concentrated in Laganás and
drive north of Corfu town, is Kefalloniá has a range of its 9 km (6 mile) sweep of
the highest point on Corfu, it attractions, from busy beach soft sand. The resort’s hectic
offers fine views over the resorts to areas of outstanding nightlife continues until dawn.
whole island, and across to natural beauty. Alternatively, visitors can head
the Epirot mainland. The capital, Argostóli, is a to the island’s north coast for
busy town located by a bay. the beach resorts of Tsiliví and
Southern Corfu Of interest are the Historical Alykés, the latter being especially
More varied than the north, and Folk Museum and the good for windsurfing. At the
southern Corfu offers other Archaeological Museum. northernmost tip of the island
attractions apart from beaches. Around the island, the liveliest are the unusual and spectacular
Tranquil hillside villages, such as places are Lássi and the south- Blue Caves. The caves can be
Vátos and Pélekas, contrast coast resorts, but elsewhere visited by boat from below the
with busy resorts like Benítses, there are quiet villages and lighthouse at Cape Skinári.
offering a more traditional
image of Greece.
Among the more peaceful
spots in the south is the Korisíon
Lagoon, a 5 km (3 mile) stretch
of water, separated from the sea
by some of the most beautiful
dunes and beaches on Corfu.
The area provides a habitat
for many species of birds and
wild flowers.
A popular day trip from any
of Corfu’s resorts is to the
Achílleion Palace, built between
1890 and 1891 as a personal
retreat for the Empress Elizabeth The Blue Caves of Zákynthos at the northern tip of the island
s Cyclades
The most visited island group, the Cyclades are everyone’s
Greek island ideal, with their whitewashed, cliff-top villages,
ATHENS
blue-domed churches, and stunning beaches. The islands
vary greatly, from the quiet and traditional to the more
nightlife-oriented. The cradle of the Cycladic civilization Mýkonos
(3300–2000 BC), they also offer a rich ancient history. Náxos
Important archaeological sites, such as those on Delos and

Santoríni, provide a fascinating insight into the past. Santoríni
south, the Archaeological Locator Map

Museum has a fine
collection of ancient are also a couple of gay and/or
pottery, including finds nudist beaches, including Super
from the excavations of Paradise, Liá, and Eliá.
the ruins on Delos. Inland, the traditional village
In the Kástro, the oldest of Ano Merá remains largely
part of town, is the unspoiled by tourism. The
excellent, though rarely main attraction here is the
open, Folk Museum. 16th-century monastery
The 16th-century Vonís Panagía Tourlianí.
Windmill, still in working
order, is part of the T Delos
museum. Nearby, the 6 nautical miles SW of Mýkonos town.
most famous church on Tel 22890-22259. g 10–11am daily
the island is Panagía from Mýkonos town returning 2–3pm.
Paraportianí, which Open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue–
dates back to 1425. From Sun. Closed main public hols. & 8
Working 16th-century windmill, part of the Folk Kástro, the lanes run The tiny, uninhabited island
Museum in Mýkonos town down into picturesque of Delos is one of the most
Mikrí Venetía (Little important archaeological sites
Mýkonos Venice), the artists’ quarter. Also in Greece. The legendary
worth visiting are the Maritime birthplace of Artemis and
* 10,000. k 3 km (1.5 miles) SE of
Museum of the Aegean and Apollo, from 1000 BC it was
Mýkonos town. g Mýkonos town,
new or old ports. @ Polykandrióti the Municipal Art Gallery. home to the annual Delian
and also base of old-port jetty, Festival, held in honor of the
Mýkonos town (for north and east of E Archaeological Museum god Apollo. By 700 BC, it had
island); Fábrika, Mýkonos town (for Harborfront. Tel 22890-22325. become a major religious center
south of island). Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. and place of pilgrimage. In
Closed main public hols. & addition to some impressive
Sandy beaches and dynamic 2nd-century BC mosaics and
nightlife combine to make Around the Island temple ruins, the most
Mýkonos one of the most Mýkonos is popular primarily for important remains on Delos are
popular islands in the Cyclades. its beaches including long the magnificent 7th-century BC
Visited by intellectuals in the Kalafátis in the east and stylish Lion Terrace, the Theater, built
early days of tourism, today it Platýs Gialós, 3.5 km (2 miles) in 300 BC to hold 5,500 people,
thrives on its reputation as one south of Mýkonos town. There and the Theater Quarter.
of the glitziest island in Greece.
In addition to offering sun, sea,
and sand, the island is a good
base from which to visit the
ancient archaeological site
on Delos.
Mýkonos Town
The supreme example of a
Cycladic town, Mýkonos town
(or Chóra) is a tangle of dazzling
white alleys and cube-shaped
houses. It has a bustling port,
from where taxi boats for the
island of Delos leave. To the Lions carved from Naxian marble along the Lion Terrace on Delos
Náxos Town
Overlooking Náxos town’s
bustling harbor is the huge,
marble, 6thcentury BC Portára
gateway, built as the entrance to
the unfinished Temple of Apollo.
To the south, Agios Geórgios is
the main tourist center. The old
town divides into the Kástro –
the 13thcentury Venetian
fortifications – and the medieval
Boúrgos lower down. The fine
18thcentury Orthodox
Terraces of whitewashed buildings in Firá, Santoríni cathedral, the Mitrópoli
Zoödóchou Pigís, stands in
Santoríni Around the Island Boúrgos, which also has a busy
* 15,500. k 5 km (3 miles) SE of Within easy reach of Firá, on the market area. In the Kástro, the
Firá. g Athiniós, 7.5 km (5 miles) headland of Mésa Vounó, the Archaeological Museum, in a
south of Firá. @ 50 m (160 ft) ruins of the Dorian town of former French Jesuit school, has
S of main square, Firá. Ancient Thíra are not to be one of the best collections of
missed. Most of the ruins date Cycladic marble figurines in the
Colonized by the Minoans in from the Ptolemies, who built Greek islands.
3000 BC, this volcanic island temples to the Egyptian gods
erupted in about 1630 BC, in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. E Archaeological Museum
forming Santoríni’s distinct There are also Hellenistic and French Jesuit School. Tel 2285022725.
crescent shape. A popular Roman remains. Below the Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
tourist destination, it is a site are the popular beaches Closed main public hols. &
stunning island, as of Períssa and Kamári.
famous for its Another of the Cyclades’ Around the Island
ancient archaeological most inspiring archaeo South of Náxos town are
sites as for its logical sites, the Minoan many fine beaches, including
whitewashed villages, settlement of Akrotíri Agía Anna and Kastráki –
volcanic cliffs, and black was unearthed in 1967, the latter good for water sports
sand beaches. still preserved after some – and tranquil Pláka.
3,500 years of burial under Inland, the Tragaiá Valley is a
Firá volcanic ash. Some of the walkers’ paradise. It is dotted
Founded in the late frescoes discovered here with picturesque villages, such
18th century, Firá was are displayed in the as Chalkí, with its Venetian
destroyed by an A donkey ride in National Archaeological architecture. Nearby Ano Sagkrí,
earthquake in 1956 and Firá, Santoríni Museum in Athens (see a reconstructed Demeter
rebuilt with reinforced p452); others are in Firá’s temple, is the most interesting
concrete on top of the volcanic Museum of Prehistoric Thera. ancient monument on Náxos.
cliffs. Packed with hotels, bars,
and restaurants, its streets enjoy T Ancient Thira
magnificent views out to sea. 11 km (7 miles) SW of Firá. Tel 22860
The tiny cruiseship port of 23217. @ to Kamári. Open 8am–3pm
Skála Firón, 270 m (890 ft) Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
below, is connected to the
town by cable car or by mule
up 580 steps. Náxos
Among Firá’s most interesting * 12,500. k 2 km (1 mile) S of
sights are the Museum of Náxos town. g @ Harborfront,
Prehistoric Thera, housing Náxos town.
compelling finds from the
Ancient Akrotiri site, including The largest of the Cyclades,
vivid Minoan frescoes and a Náxos was a major center of
golden ibex figurine, and the the Cycladic civilization. The
Lignos Folklore Museum in Venetians, who arrived in the
Kondohóri suburb. 13th century, built many
fortifications that still stand on
E Museum of Prehistoric Thera the island today. The combin
Mitropóleos St. Tel 2286023217. ation of its history and superb
Open 8am–3pm daily (Nov–Mar: beaches make Náxos an ideal The Portára gateway that overlooks Náxos
Tue–Sun). Closed main public hols. & vacation destination. town’s harbor
d Rhodes and the Dodecanese ATHENS
The Dodecanese offer a wide range of landscapes and

Patmos
activities. Their hot climate and fine beaches attract many
visitors, but the islands also boast lush, fertile valleys and Kos Rhodes
town
wooded mountains. The Dodecanese have been subject to •
Rhodes •
several invasions, with periods of occupation by the medieval Líndos
Kárpathos
Knights of St. John, the Ottomans, and the Italians. This
checkered history is still apparent in the islands’ impressively
varied architecture and wealth of historical sites.
Locator Map
divided – were used as meeting

places for the Knights. Begun in
the 14th century in Gothic style,
they were restored by the
Italians in the early 20th century.
The Archaeological
Museum, located in the
Collachium, contain many fine
exhibits from different periods
in Rhodes’ history. Don’t miss
the knightly Villaragut
Mansion in the back garden.
In the Bourgos area, the
Mosque of Suleiman was built
to commemorate the Sultan’s
victory over the Knights in 1522.
The Palace of the Grand Masters in Rhodes town The Library of Hafız Ahmet,
which houses the chronicle of
Rhodes of St. John arrived in 1309, they the Turks’ siege of Rhodes, and
built their citadel over these the now disused public baths,
* 115,500. k 15 km (9 miles)
ancient remains. Surrounded provide further reminders of the
SW of Rhodes town. g Commercial &
Kolóna harbors, Rhodes town. @ by moats and 3 km (2 miles) of town’s Turkish past.
Mandráki, Rhodes town. n walls, the Knights’ medieval
Archiepiskopou Makariou 1, Rhodes citadel forms the center of the P Palace of the Grand Masters
town (22410-44330). Old Town, which is divided into Ippotón. Tel 22413-25500. Open Apr–
the Collachium and the Oct: 8am–8pm daily: Nov–Mar: 8am–
An important center from the Bourgos. The Collachium was 3pm Tue. Closed main public hols.
6th to 3rd centuries BC, Rhodes the Knights’ quarter, while the & 7 limited.
was later part of both the Bourgos was home to the
Roman and Byzantine empires rest of the population. Rhodes New Town
before being conquered by the Dominating the Old Town is Beyond the original citadel
Knights of St. John, the order the 14th-century Palace of walls, the new town
founded in the 11th century the Grand Masters, the of Rhodes is made up of
to tend Christian pilgrims in seat of 19 Grand Masters of a number of areas. These
Jerusalem. They occupied the the Knights during two include Néa Agora (new
island from 1309 to 1522, and centuries of occupation. market), with its whimsical
their medieval walled city still The palace houses several fishmongers’ gazebo, and
dominates Rhodes town. priceless mosaics from Mandráki harbor in the
Ottoman and Italian rulers sites in Kos, as well as two eastern half of town. Close
followed, leaving their own permanent exhibitions to the harbor are the
traces of occupation. Rhodes’ about ancient and mock Crusader Gothic
rich and varied history, sandy medieval Rhodes. Government House –
beaches, and lively nightlife The medieval Street a legacy of the Italian
attract hundreds of thousands of the Knights is lined 1920s building program
of tourists each year. by the Inns of the – and the Mosque of
Tongues of the Order Murad Reis, with its
Rhodes Old Town of St. John. The Inns – graceful minaret. The
The town of Rhodes has been there was one for each north west side of town
inhabited for over 2,400 years. of the seven Tongues, The minaret of is a busy tourist center,
A city was first built here in or nationalities, into the Mosque of with lively streets and
408 BC, and when the Knights which the Order was Murad Reis popular Elli beach.
of these are easily reached from

Kamári on the island’s
southwest coast. Kardámaina is
Kos’s biggest and brashest
resort, while the north-coast
beaches, such as Tigkáki, are
ideal for water sports. In spite of
tourist development, inland you
can still see remnants of Kos’s
traditional lifestyle.
Kos is a good base from
which to explore the more
northerly islands of the
Dodecanese, including Pátmos,
home to the 11th-century
Monastery of St. John.
The acropolis overlooking Líndos town on Rhodes
Western Rhodes
A short distance southwest of
similar distance southwest of
Lindos, Asklipieió village offers
Kárpathos
Rhodes town, set on the the church of Kímisi tis * 6,000. k 17 km (11 miles) S of
beautiful green and wooded Theotókou, with vivid frescoes. Kárpathos town. @ corner of 28
hillsides of Filérimos, is Moní Oktovríou & Dimokratías, Kárpathos
T Acropolis at Líndos town. g Kárpathos town, Diáfani.
Filerímou. A place of worship for
n Kárpathos town, summer only
2,400 years, this monastery has 1 km (0.5 miles) E of Líndos village.
Tel 22440-31258. Open Apr–Oct: (22450-23835).
layers of history and tradition,
from Phoenician to Byzantine, 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm Despite an increase in tourism
Orthodox, and Catholic. Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols. & from the late 1990s onwards,
A few kilometers farther rugged Kárpathos remains
southwest, Ancient Kámeiros largely unspoiled. Its capital,
is one of the best-preserved Kos Kárpathos town, is a busy
Classical Greek cities. Its * 33,000. k 24 km (15 miles) SW of center, with hotels, cafés, and
remains include a 3rd-century Kos town. g @ Aktí Koudouriótou, restaurants around its bay.
BC Doric temple. Kos town. n Artemisías, Kos town. Nearby is the main resort of
Also worth visiting are the Amoopí, though good beaches
wine-making village of Emponas, Mainly flat and fertile, Kos is are rather distant. In addition to
and Petaloúdes, or Butterfly known as the “Floating Garden.” some magnificent beaches
Valley. Popular with walkers, this It has a wealth of archaeological northwest of the capital,
valley teems with Jersey tiger sites, Hellenistic and Roman ruins, including Lefkós and Ápella,
moths from June to September. and Byzantine and Venetian the island has places of
castles, many of which can be archaeological and historical
T Ancient Kámeiros found in Kos town. Here, the interest. Vroukoúnda has
36 km (22 miles) SW of Rhodes town. 16th-century Castle of the ancient walls and rock-cut
Open daily. Closed main public hols. Knights, the Ancient Agora, and tombs, mostly Hellenistic and
& 7 to lower sections only. the Roman remains should not Roman, while in Olympos
be missed. Most visitors come village traditional Greek life and
Eastern Rhodes for the sandy beaches. The best customs can still be observed.
Halfway along Rhodes’
sheltered east coast, Líndos
is one of the island’s most
popular resorts. A magnet for
tourists seeking sun, sea, and
sand, it is also famous for its
cliff-top acropolis overlooking
the bay. This temple site,
crowned by the 4th-century BC
Temple of Lindian Athena, was
one of the most sacred spots
in the ancient world.
A short drive from Lindos,
south of Láerma village, the
church of Moní Thárri shelters
the finest frescoes on Rhodes,
dating from 1300 to 1450. A Windmills in the traditional village of Olympos on Kárpathos
f Crete ATHENS
Rugged mountains, sparkling seas, and ancient history combine

with the Cretans’ relaxed nature to make this island an idyllic
vacation destination. The center of the Minoan civilization
over 3,000 years ago, Crete has also been occupied by
Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Turks. Historic towns such
as Irákleio, Chaniá, and Réthymno, and the famous Minoan
Chaniá
palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, give a fascinating insight •
Irákleio
• •
into some of the most important periods in Cretan history. Réthymno
Crete
•
Phaistos
Locator Map
T Palace of Knossos
5 km (3 miles) S of Irákleio.
Tel 2810-231 940. @ Open daily.
Closed main public hols. & 8
The capital of Minoan Crete,
Knossos was the largest and
most sophisticated of the
Minoan palaces on the island.
Built around 1900 BC, the
first palace of Knossos was
destroyed by an earthquake in
about 1700 BC and was soon
Irákleio’s harbor, dominated by the vast Venetian fortress completely rebuilt. The ruins
visible today are almost entirely
Irákleio E Irákleio Archaeological from this second palace. They
* 174,000. k 5 km (3 miles) E. g Museum were restored by Sir Arthur
@ n Xanthoudídou 1 (2810- Corner of Xanthoudídou & Mpofór, Evans in the early 20th century;
246298). Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 2810-279086/ although the subject of
279000. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm academic controversy, his
A busy, sprawling town of daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Mon, reconstructions give one of
concrete buildings, Irákleio 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. & the best impressions of life in
nevertheless has much of interest This impressive museum Minoan Crete to be found
to the visitor. Four centuries of displays Minoan artifacts from anywhere on the island.
Venetian rule have left a rich all over Crete. Its most Highlights of a tour of the
architectural legacy, evident magnificent exhibits include a site – the focal point of which is
in the imposing 16th-century rock-crystal rhyton (drinking the vast Central Court – include
fortress overlooking the harbor, horn), and the Phaistos Disk, the replica of the Priest-King
and the elegantly-restored which was discovered at the Fresco, the Giant Pithos, one of
17th-century Loggia, a former site of the palace of Phaistos in over 100 pithoi (storage jars)
meeting place for the island’s 1903. Inscribed with pictorial unearthed at Knossos, the
nobility. Among Irákleio’s many symbols, the disk’s meaning Throne Room, believed to
churches, 13th-century Agios and origin remain a mystery. have served as a shrine, and the
Márkos, now the city’s main Among the museum’s many Royal Apartments. The original
picture gallery, and 16th- other treasures are the Snake frescoes from the palace are
century Agios Títos deserve a Goddesses, two figurines now housed in Irákleio’s
visit. Also not to be missed are dating from around 1600 BC. Archaeological Museum.
the Archaeological Museum
(see below) and the Historical
Museum, which traces the
history of Crete from early
Christian times. The heart
of the town is Plateía Eleftheríou
Venizélou, a bustling pedestrian-
ized zone of cafés and shops.
Those interested in the
beaches should head to the
package-tour resorts of Mália
and Chersónisos, just a short
drive east of the town. The South Propylon (entrance) of the Palace of Knossos
Phaistos The Mosque of the Janissaries,

65 km (40 miles) SW of Irákleio. on one side of the harbor, dates
Tel 28920-42315. @ Open 8am– back to the arrival of the Turks in
8pm daily (winter: 8am–6pm). 1645, and is the oldest Ottoman
Closed main public hols. & building on Crete. The lively
covered market is an area worth
Phaistos was one of the most exploring. Nearby the
important Minoan palaces Archaeological Museum is
on Crete. In 1900 Italian-led housed in the Venetian church
excavations unearthed two of San Francesco.
palaces. Remains of the first Some 4 km (2 miles) west of
palace, constructed around Chaniá, the relatively undisturbed
1900 BC and destroyed by an beach of Agioi Apóstoloi
earthquake in 1700 BC, are still comprises two attractive coves.
visible. Most of the present
ruins, however, are of the
second palace. Phaistos was Samariá Gorge The narrow defile known as the Iron Gates
finally destroyed in the 2nd 44 km (27 miles) S of Chaniá. @ to in the Samariá Gorge
century BC by the ancient Xylóskalo. g Agía Rouméli to Sfakía
city-state of Górtys. or Palaiochóra (via Soúgia); check time
Réthymno
The most impressive remains of last boat back at the outset. Open * 32,000. @ n Sofokli Venizélou
are the Grand Staircase, which May–mid-Oct: 6am–4pm daily; Apr (28310-29148).
was the main entrance to the 10–30 & Oct 16–31: if weather permits.
palace, and the Central Court. Despite tourism and modern
A few kilometers northeast Crete’s most spectacular development, Réthymno has
of Phaistos, the archaeological scenery lies along the Samariá retained much of its charm.
remains of ancient Górtys date Gorge, the longest ravine in The old quarter is rich in well-
from about 1000 BC to the late Europe. When it became a preserved Venetian and
7th century AD. national park, the inhabitants of Ottoman architecture, including
the village of Samariá moved the elegant 16th-century
elsewhere, leaving behind the Venetian Lótzia (Loggia) and
Agios Nikólaos ruined buildings and chapels the Nerantzés Mosque, a
* 11,400. g @ n Koundoúrou 21 seen here today. Starting from converted Franciscan church
(28410-22357). ( Wed. the Xylóskalo (Wooden Stairs), that is now a concert hall. The
an 18-km- (11-mile-) trail leads huge Fortétsa was built by the
The main transport hub for the to the seaside village of Agía Venetians in the 16th century
east of the island, delightful Rouméli. A truly impressive to defend the port against both
Agios Nikólaos is a thriving sight along the route is the pirates and the Turks. Below it is
vacation center with an Sideróportes, or Iron Gates, a pretty harbor, lined with cafés
attractive port and fine beaches where the path squeezes and restaurants. Also worth
some distance east, as well as between two towering walls visiting are the Archaeological
an interesting Folk Museum and of rock, only 3 m (9 ft) apart. Museum and the Historical and
an Archaeological Museum. Upon reaching Agía Rouméli, Folk Art Museum.
A few kilometers north is walkers can take a boat to East of Réthymno, there are
the well-established resort of Sfakía, Soúgia, or Palaiochóra several resorts, while to the
Eloúnda, boasting a good range to join the road and buses west lies a 20 km (12 mile)
of accommodations plus boat back to Chaniá. stretch of uncrowded beach.
trips to Spinalónga islet.
Chaniá
* 54,000. k 16 km (10 miles) E.
g @ n Kriári 40 (28210-92943).
One of Crete’s most appealing

cities, Chaniá was ruled by the
Venetians from 1204 to 1645,
and is dotted with elegant
houses, churches, and
fortifications dating from this
period. Many of these can be
found in the Venetian quarter
around the harbor, and in the
picturesque Splántzia district. Tavernas and bars along Réthymno’s waterfront
Practical Information can stay indefinitely. The

unauthorized export of
Tourism is one of Greece’s most important industries, and as antiquities and archaeological
a consequence, visitors to the country are well catered for: artifacts from Greece is treated
transportation networks are relatively efficient, there are as a serious offence, incurring
hefty fines or a prison sentence.
banks and exchange facilities in all the major resorts, and
Prescription drugs brought
telecommunications have improved dramatically in recent into the country should be
years. The country’s hot climate, together with the easy-going kept in the original container
outlook of its people, are conducive to a relaxed vacation, and with the prescription
it is usually best to adopt the philosophy sigá, sigá (slowly, information visible.
slowly). In summer, almost everything closes for a few hours
after lunch, reopening later in the day when the air cools and Personal Security
Greece comes to life again. The crime rate in Greece is low
compared with other European
countries, but it is worth taking a
When to Visit Opening Hours few sensible precautions, such as
Tourist season in Greece – late Opening hours tend to be vague keeping all personal possessions
June to early September – is in Greece, varying from day to secure. Parts of Athens, such as
the hottest and most expensive day, season to season, and place Omonia, Keramikós, and
time to visit, as well as being to place. To avoid disappoint- Metaxourgeîo can be dangerous
very crowded. December to ment, visitors are advised to after midnight. If you have
March are the coldest and wettest confirm the opening times of anything stolen, contact either
months, with reduced seagoing sites covered in this chapter the police or the tourist police.
and air transportation facilities, once they arrive in the country. Foreign women traveling
and many hotels and restaurants All post offices and banks, and alone in Greece are usually
closed for the winter. Spring is a most stores, offices, state-run treated with respect, especially
good time to visit; there are fewer museums, and archaeological if they are dressed modestly.
tourists, and the weather and sites close on public holidays. However, hitch-hiking alone is
the countryside are at their best. Some facilities may also be not advisable.
closed on local festival days.
The main public holidays in
Tourist Information Greece are January 1, March 25, Police
Tourist information is available Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Greece’s police are split into
in many towns and villages Monday, May 1, Whit Monday, three forces: the regular police,
throughout Greece, from December 25 and 26. the port police, and the tourist
government-run EOT offices police. The tourist police provide
(Ellinikós Organismós advice to vacationers in addition
Tourismoú), municipally Visa Requirements to carrying out normal police
run tourist offices, the local and Customs duties. Should you suffer a
tourist police, or privately Visitors from the US, Canada, theft, lose your passport, or have
owned travel agencies. Australia, and New Zealand need cause to complain about shops,
However, visitors should only a valid passport for entry to restaurants, tour guides, or taxi
be aware that not all of the Greece (no visa is required), and drivers, you should contact
information published by the can stay for up to 90 days in a them first. Every tourist police
EOT is reliable or up-to-date. 180-day period. EU nationals office claims to have at least
one English speaker.
The Climate of Greece

ATHENS Emergency Services
On the mainland, summers
are very hot, while spring In the event of an emergency
°C/ºF
and autumn generally bring 31/88 while on vacation, the
milder but wetter weather. In 22/72 22/72 appropriate numbers to call are
winter, rainfall is at its greatest 18/64 listed in the Directory opposite.
15/59
11/52 12/54
everywhere. Mountainous 6/43
regions usually get heavy
snow, but around Athens, 8 12 7 4
Health Issues
temperatures rarely drop hrs hrs hrs hrs No inoculations are required
below freezing. Throughout 23 6 51 62 for visitors to Greece. Tap water
the islands, the tendency is mm mm mm mm in Greece is generally safe to
for long, dry summers and
month Apr Jul Oct Jan drink, but in remote
mild but rainy winters.
communities it is a good
precaution to check
GREECE  479
with the locals. Jellyfish, restaurants, the service charge smallest resorts and remotest
sea urchins, and weaver fish is always included in the check, islands, and are the usual way
are potential hazards on but tips are still appreciated – of getting cash.
beach holidays. the custom is to leave between
10 and 15 percent. Taxi drivers,
hotel porters, and chamber Communications
Pharmacies maids do not expect a tip, but Public telephone booths are
Greek pharmacies, farmakeía, are not averse to them either. found at street junctions, though
are open from 8:30am to 2pm many fail to work and they are
Monday to Friday, but are becoming steadily rarer with
usually closed in the afternoon Photography the advent of the mobile phone.
and all day on Saturdays. In Taking photographs inside Before you leave home, make
larger towns, there is often a churches and monasteries is sure your phone has inter
rota system to maintain a usually forbidden in Greece. national roaming; price caps
service on weekends and Inside museums, photography introduced in 2015 make this
from 5:30 to 10pm on is usually permitted, although affordable within the EU. Another
weekdays. Details are posted in flashes and tripods are often option is to buy a local payas
pharmacy windows, in both not. Wherever you go, it is best yougo SIM card; of several
Greek and English. to gain permission before using providers, Cosmote has the best
a camera, as rules vary. coverage in remote areas.
Greek post offices
Facilities for the Disabled (tachydromeía) are generally
There are few facilities in Banking and Currency open from 7:30am to 2:30pm
Greece for assisting the The Greek unit of currency was Monday to Friday; some main
disabled, so careful, advance the drachma, but since January branches close as late as 8pm
planning is essential. 2002 it has been replaced by and occasionally open for a few
the euro (see p23). hours at weekends. All post
Greek banks open from 8am offices are closed on public
Etiquette to 2:30pm Monday to Thursday, holidays. They no longer offer
Though formal attire is rarely and 8am to 2pm on Friday. exchange services, but some
needed, modest clothing Exchange facilities are also serve as sending and receiving
(trousers for men and skirts and available at travel agents and points for Western Union money
covered shoulders for women) hotels, albeit at poor rates. transfers. Smaller Greek villages
should be worn when visiting Travelers’ checks are difficult to may not have an official post
churches and monasteries. exchange and not recom office; its function may be
Better hotels enforce a “smart mended. Cash point machines performed by a local store with
casual” dress code for dinner. In (ATMs) are found even in the more flexible hours.
DIRECTORY
Tourist USA & Canada Ireland Emergency
Information 305 East 47th Street, Vasiléos Konstantínou 7, Numbers
New York, NY 10017.
10674 Athens. (Nationwide)
Greek National Tel 210723 2771.
Tel 2124215777. ∑ dfa.ie/irish- Police
Tourist Board
embassy/greece Tel 100.
∑ visitgreece.gr
Embassies Ambulance
EOT in Greece: South Africa
Kifisías 60, 15125 Tel 166.
Dionysíou Areopagítou Australia
Thon Building, Kifisías & Maroússi. Fire
18–20, 105 58 Athens.
Tel 210617 8020. Tel 199.
Tel 210331 0392. Alexándras, Ampdlókipi,
11521 Athens. UK Coastguard Patrol
Australia Ploutárchou 1, Tel 108.
Tel 210870 4000.
37–49 Pitt St, 10675 Athens.
∑ greece.embassy.gov. Emergency
Sydney, NSW 2000. Tel 210727 2600.
Tel 29241 1663.
au/athn/home.html ∑ ukingreece.fco. Numbers (Athens)
gov.uk
UK Canada Tourist Police
Ethnikís Andistáseos 48, US Tel 171.
5th Floor East,
Vasilíssis Sofías 91,
Great Portland House, 152 31 Halándri. Doctors
10160 Athens.
4 Great Portland Street, Tel 210727 3400. Tel 1016.
Tel 210721 2951.
London W1W 8QJ. ∑ canadainternational. ∑ athens.usembassy. 24-hour Pharmacies
Tel 0207495 9300. gc.ca gov Tel 14944.
Travel Information Rail Travel

Greece’s rail network is
During the tourist season (late June–early September), operated by the stateowned
there are countless international flights bringing millions OSE (Organismós Sidirodrómon
of vacationers to the shores of Greece, especially from Elládos). Limited to the mainland,
the colder parts of northern Europe and North America. it is fairly skeletal by European
standards, even more so
Traveling within Greece is easy enough. While many of following the elimination of
the larger islands can be reached from the mainland by many services. Remaining
plane, there are ferry routes to even the remotest routes include Athens–
destinations. Greece’s extensive bus network serves Thessaloníki and Athens–
virtually everywhere, from the largest city to the tiniest Kalampáka (Metéora). First and
secondclass tickets are less
community. Renting a car or motorcycle is another
expensive than the equivalent
popular way of exploring the country. bus journey, but services tend
to be slower. Though more
costly, tickets for intercity
Flying to Greece and mostly operate between express trains are worth it for
There are around 20 interna May and October. Tickets the time they save. OSE is
tional airports in Greece that can are sold by travel agencies scheduled for privatization
be reached directly from Europe. either as part of an allinclusive under the terms of Greece’s
Crete, Rhodes, Kos, Santoríni, package tour or as a flight financial program, and its
Mýkonos, and Corfu among the only deal. continued existence is in doubt.
islands, and Athens and
Thessaloníki on the mainland,
handle both charter and Domestic Flights Traveling by Bus
scheduled flights. The other Internal flights in Greece, International buses connect
international airports can only be including to or between the Greece with eastern Europe;
reached directly by charter flights. islands, are run by Aegean there are no longer any services
Direct scheduled flights Airlines, its subsidiary Olympic to northwestern Europe.
from London to Athens and Air, Cretebased Sky Express, Within Greece, the long
Thessaloníki are operated Thessaloníkibased Astra distance bus network is
by Aegean Airlines, British Airlines, and Ryanair. Fares extensive, with buses stopping
Airways, Ryanair, and easyJet. for domestic flights, if booked at least once a day at even the
From outside Europe, all long enough in advance, can remotest destinations, and
scheduled flights to Greece cost hardly more than a ferry frequent express services on
arrive in Athens, and only a few trip to the island in question, all the major routes.
airlines offer direct flights. US or a bus journey through From Athens there are regular
Airways and Delta Air Lines the mainland. departures to all the larger
operate direct flights daily mainland towns, apart from
from the US. those in Macedonia and Thrace,
Flights from Australia are Getting Around Athens which are served by buses from
indirect, generally with one of Athens has a network of buses, Thessaloníki. Athens’ Terminal A
the gulfstate airlines, or via trolley buses, and trams, in serves Epirus, Macedonia, the
Bangkok or Singapore. addition to a metro system. Peloponnese, and the Ionian
Athens’ international airport, Buses are inexpensive, but can islands of Corfu, Kefalloniá,
Eléfthérios Venizélos, is located be very slow, as well as Lefkáda, and Zákynthos.
27 km (17 miles) northeast of the crowded. Tickets for buses and Terminal B serves most
center. There are four 24hour trams must be purchased in destinations in central Greece,
bus services from the city advance; few períptera (street including Delphi.
to the airport: the X93 from kiosks) stock them any longer,
Kifisos intercity bus station so they are most reliably
(65 mins); the X95 from Plateía obtained in metro stations. Traveling by Car
Syntágmatos (80 mins); the X96 Tickets are valid for all means On the mainland there are
from Piraeus (90 mins); and the of urban transport (buses, express highways between
X97 from Elliniko metro station metro, and tram) and are valid Athens, Thessaloníki, Vólos,
(45 mins). Metro line 3 runs from for 70 minutes from and Pátra. These roads are
Syntagma to the airport. cancellation, allowing at least very fast, but expensive tolls are
one transfer. charged for their use. There has
Since most of the major been much upgrading of the
Charters and sights in the city center are roads on the islands, but they
Package Deals within walking distance of one are still often poorly surfaced,
Charter flights to Greece are another, you can avoid using particularly in more
nearly all from within Europe, public transportation. remote areas.
GREECE  481
Car rental agencies are found in

every tourist resort and major
town. Local chains can be less
expensive than international
names like Avis or Hertz; for a
long rental period it is wise to
consult consolidator sites like
comparecarrentals.co.uk or auto-
europe.co.uk/com. The car rental
agency should have an
agreement with an emergency
recovery company, such as
Express Hellas or InterAmerican,
in the event of a vehicle
breakdown. Small scooters and
motorcycles are also available
for rent in many tourist resorts. A Blue Star passenger ferry docked at the port of Piraeus
Greece has a high accident
rate by European standards; take Transport, so a journey should office near every harbor, are also
extra care when driving around. cost you the same, regardless a good source of reliable, up-to-
of which shipping company date information.
you choose. In addition to the large ferries,
Ferry Services Ferry tickets can be smaller vessels make inter-island
There are regular, year-round purchased from any dockside crossings in summer.
ferry crossings from Italy and ferry agent – most handle all
Turkey to the Greek mainland lines – or online in advance,
and islands. though the ticket must be Catamarans
Piraeus, the port of Athens, claimed (often with a service Besides conventional ferries,
is Greece’s busiest port, with charge) at a port agency. catamarans of various sizes ply
ferry routes to most islands. Advance reservations are the Argo-Saronic islands, the
Recent bankruptcies mean that advisable around major holidays Cyclades, and the Dodecanese.
there are now fewer shipping or elections, especially if you They tend to be twice as fast,
companies in operation; want a cabin. In off-season, but correspondingly expensive.
between them, Hellenic services may be reduced or They are a vast improvement
Seaways, and Blue Star cover suspended altogether. Check on their predecessors, Soviet-
most of the Aegean, with ANEK local sources or websites (www. bloc hydrofoils known locally as
and Minoan Lines serving gtp.gr is reliable) for the latest “flying dolphins”, which only
Crete. All fares except first class information before you travel. serve the Argo-Saronic islands
are set by the Ministry of The port police, who have an and the Corfu–Paxí line.
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines Rail Travel Car Rental Ferry and
Agencies Catamaran
Aegean Airlines OSE (Information
Tel 801-112 0000 or & Reservations) Avis Companies
210-626 1000. Sína 6, Athens. Leofóros Amalías 48,
Tel 14511. 10558 Athens. ANEK Lines
∑ aegeanair.com
∑ trainose.gr Tel 210-322 4951. Aktí Kondýli 24, Piraeus.
Astra Airlines ∑ avis.com
Train Station Tel 210-419 7170.
Tel 231-048 9390.
in Athens Hertz ∑ anek.gr
∑ astra-airlines.gr
Laríssis station (for Syngroú 12, 11742
Olympic Air northern Greece). Ticket Athens. Tel 210-922 0102. Blue Star
Tel 801-801 0101 or windows open 5am– ∑ hertz.gr ∑ bluestarferries.gr
210-355 0500. midnight.
∑ olympicair.com
Piraeus Port Hellenic Seaways
Buses Tel 14541 (ferry Tel 210-419 9000.
Ryanair departure/arrival times; ∑ hellenicseaways.gr
∑ ryanair.com Bus Terminals beware of expensive
in Athens connection charge). Minoan Lines
Sky Express Terminal A: Kifisoú 100.
Tel 801-112 8288 or 25is Avgoustou 17, Iraklio.
Tel 210-512 4910. Lávrio Port
281-022 3800. Terminal B: Liosíon 260. Tel 281-022 9602.
∑ skyexpress.gr Tel 210-832 9585. Tel 229-202 6859. ∑ minoan.gr
Shopping & Entertainment Most theaters and music clubs

in the capital sell tickets
The choice of places to shop in Greece ranges from colorful, at the door on the day of the
bustling street markets, found in almost every large town, performance. A useful booking
through traditional arts and crafts shops, to the designer website is ticketservices.gr with
fashion boutiques of Athens. Entertainment is as varied; a convenient ticket pick-up
office in the stoa of Panepistimiou
visitors can try an open-air concert in the atmospheric setting 39. Tickets for the summer
of an ancient theater, watch a film at an open-air cinema, or Hellenic Festival and for
enjoy some late-night dining in a local taverna before concerts at the Mégaron
heading for a bar. With its dry, sunny climate and clear, warm Mousikís – Athens Concert Hall
seas, Greece offers countless opportunities for outdoor should be bought in advance.
Elsewhere, your nearest
activities, from snorkeling to windsurfing, sailing, and hiking.
tourist office should be able
to provide information on
what is happening locally.
What to Buy For jewelry, Athens is the best
Traditional handicrafts, though place to shop. Exclusive names
often expensive, are the most include Antónis Vourákis and Entertainment Venues
genuinely Greek souvenirs. In Anagnostópoulos, on The main entertainment venues
Athens, Monastiráki and Pláka Voukourestíou. The Ilías in Athens host a wide variety
are the best places to purchase Lalaoúnis Jewelry Museum of events. As well as excellent
such items. There are also some has over 3,000 designs, productions of 19th-century
unusual antiquarian shops, inspired by Classical and other Greek and European plays, the
particularly near Plateía archaeological sources. National Theater puts on opera,
Avyssinías on Normánou, which ballet, and contemporary dance.
has dealers in old engravings The Mégaron Mousikís or
and nostalgic commercial logos. Markets Athens Concert Hall is a first-
Fans of Greek music should try Most large towns in Greece class classical and jazz concert
Zacharias, which has a large have a weekly street market venue, while the Olympia
stock of second-hand CDs and (laïkí agorá), where fresh Theater is home to the Lyrikí
vinyl, or for new stock the CD produce is sold alongside shoes, Skiní (National Opera). At the
shop at the Museum of Greek fabrics, and sundry household Dóra Strátou Dance Theater,
Popular Musical Instruments, items. In Athens, the ones on there is traditional regional
while at the fascinating Center Xenokrátous in centrally located Greek dancing nightly between
of Hellenic Tradition you can Kolonáki and on Tsámi Karatása May and September.
buy paintings, embroidery, folk in Makrygiánni take place every
art, and finely crafted ceramics. Friday. The busy Central Market
Some of the country’s best is excellent for food, while the Open-Air Cinemas
ceramics can be found in the famous weekend-morning flea and Theaters
markets and shops of Athens’ market in Monastiráki should Found in towns and cities all
northern suburb Maroúsi, and not be missed. over Greece, the outdoor
on the island of Crete. cinema is extremely popular
Brightly colored koureloúdes with Greeks and an experience
(rag rugs) and wall-hangings are Food and Drink not to be missed by anyone
produced in many Greek villages. Culinary delights to look for in visiting the country in summer.
Colorful flokáti rugs, which are Greece include honey, olives, Most movies are in English with
handwoven from sheep or goat’s olive oil, pistachios, and cheeses, Greek subtitles.
wool, are made mainly in the such as the salty feta. Also Open-air performances of
Píndos mountains, but can also worth trying are ouzo (an anise- Classical and modern drama,
be found in other parts of the flavored liquor), retsina (wine held at famous ancient
mainland and on the islands. flavored wi

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Art Editor Paul Jackson

Editors Sam Atkinson, Simon Hall, Andrew Szudek

Designers Anthony Limerick, Sue Metcalfe-Megginson, Rebecca Milner

Picture Researchers Katherine Mesquita, Alex Pepper, Lily Sellar

Map Coordinator Casper Morris

Photographers Max Alexander, Demetrio Carrasco, Kim Sayer, Linda Whitwam

Printed and bound in China

Published in the United States by DK Publishing,

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Europe at

The History of Europe 34

The Netherlands 236

Spain 266 Germany, Austria, Finland 650

Rail Map of Europe

The Baroque church of Santa Maria della

The spectacular Mont-St-Michel

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Europe Map 366  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E AT A G L A N C E  367

Italy and Greece at a Glance

map on the inside front cover

indicate the 19 country chapters Mediterranean climate and a correspondingly

in this guide. beautiful beaches, and

The map here highlights the most

interesting cities, towns, and Naples

Athens (see pp450–57)

regions in the countries covered

in the section (in this example

Italy and Greece). Reggio di of ancient Greece.

Rome (see pp374–

ITALY 17th century.

This section gives the reader

an insight into the country’s

The softly undulating hills of Tuscany

Distance by road in miles

Turin (Mantova) Adige 219 594 354 489 714 786

673 332 1111 395 170 138 884

Tuscany, the Veneto, or the island A1

For easy reference, sights in each

418 206 691 245 106 86 549

of Sicily. Road and rail connections Genoa

country are numbered and plotted

Nice Ligurian Pisa (Firenze)

on a map. The black bullet numbers

(e.g. 3) also indicate the order

in which the sights are covered in

Sights at a Glance Ajaccio Fiumicino

Porto Olbia Pompeii

6 Florence pp394–407 s Bologna

8 Lucca f Urbino Alghero 31d Isola di Capri Amalfi S407

q Turin j Amalfi Coast

w Milan k Palermo Sea

e Lake Maggiore l Taormina

Sights at a Glance lists

the numbered sights in MEDITER Isole Messina Calabria

374  I TA LY A N D G R E E C E ROME  375

This plots individual sights within

sights within a city, such as Rome,

are indicated with clear-bullet

numbers (e.g. 3), in contrast to

the black bullets used on the

PIAZZA D. PIAZZA DEL N

Visitors’ Checklist gives all the

practical information needed to