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Gilgit-Baltistan: Administrative Territory
Gilgit-Baltistan: Administrative Territory
Gilgit-Baltistan
ت
گلگت ب ل ست ان
Administrative Territory of Pakistan[1]
Clockwise from top: K2, Biafo Glacier, Attabad Lake Hunza, Skardu machulu baltistan , Deosai
National Park
Flag Seal
Nickname(s): GB
Gilgit-Baltistan is shown in red. Rest of Pakistan is shown in white. The Indian-administered state of Jammu and Kashmir
is shown by hatching.
Assembly seats 33[5]
Districts 10
Towns 9
Website gilgitbaltistan.gov.pk
Gilgit-Baltistan (Urdu)گلگت بلتستان, formerly known as the Northern Areas of Pakistan[6] is the
northern most administrative territory of Pakistan.[7] It borders Azad Kashmir to the south, the
province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa to the west, the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan to the north,
Xinjiang, China, to the east and northeast and Jammu and Kashmir to the southeast. The region,
together with Azad Kashmir, Askai Chin and Shakshagam Valley of China and Jammu and Kashmir, is
disputed between India, China and Pakistan.[7][8]
Gilgit-Baltistan is an autonomous[9] self-governing region that was established as a single
administrative unit in 1970, formed by the amalgamation of the Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan region and
the former princely states of Hunza and Nagar. It covers an area of 72,971 km² (28,174 sq mi) and is
highly mountainous.[10] It has an estimated population approaching 2,000,000.[10] Its capital city is
Gilgit (population 216,760 est).
Contents
• 1 History
• 1.1 Early History
• 1.2 Medieval History
• 2 Modern History
• 3 Government
• 4 Administrative divisions
• 5 Geography and climate
• 5.1 Rock art and petroglyphs
• 5.2 Climate
• 6 Economy and resources
• 6.1 Mountaineering
• 7 Sports
• 8 Transport
• 9 Demographics
• 9.1 Languages
• 9.2 Religion
• 9.3 Culture
• 10 See also
• 11 References
• 12 Further reading
• 13 External links
History
Main article: History of Gilgit-Baltistan
Early History
Rock carvings
"The ancient Stupa – rock carvings of
Manthal Buddah rock in Photograph of Kargah Buddha. Buddha, everywhere in the region is a
outskirts of Skardu city. pointer to the firm hold of the Buddhist
rules for such a long time."[11]
Between 399 and 414: The Chinese Buddhist Pilgrim Faxian (Fa-hsien) visited Gilgit Baltistan.[12]
while in the 6th century The King Somana ruled in Palola (greater Gilgit-Chilas). Between 627 and
645: The Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuanzang (Hsüan-tsang) travelled through this region. From 644 to
655, 671: Navasurendrādityanandi was King of Palola (Gilgit). In 706/707,
Jayamaṅgalavikramādityanandi became the King of Palola. It is said that in the year 717 A delegation
of a ruler of great Palola, named Su-fu-she-li-ji-li-ni according to the transcription of Chinese
characters, reached the Chinese Imperial court. 719: Su-fu-she-li-ji-li-ni, King of Palola, sent a second
delegation to the Chinese Imperial court.[13] At least in 719/720 Ladakh (Mard) was part of the
Tibetan Empire. About 720 Buddhism is practiced in Baltistan and Sanskrit was the written language.
Mentioning of a kunjāna (~_kuljāna) of King, who is Lord of the area of Saṃbhūtānnā and of a person
called Gaṇḍi, son of a King, in a Brahmi inscription of Shigar.[citation needed] Mentioning of the
monastery of Navasaṃghārāma and the monk Saṃgharakṣita in a Brahmi inscription from Kachura
(Skardu-Valley). It is unknown if Baltistan temporarily belonged at that time to Palola.720: Delegation
of Sou-lin-t'o i che (= Surendrāditya), King of Palola, to the Chinese imperial court. The Emperor gives
the ruler of Cashmere "Tchen-fo-lo-pi-li (Chandrāpīḍa)" the title of "King of Cashmere".At least
721/722: Baltistan is part of the Tibetan Empire.[14] 721/722: The conquest of Little Palola or Bru-zha
(Yasin) by the Tibetan army fails. Mo-ching-mang (Mo-kin-mang) is King of Little Palola. With 723
727/28: The Korean Buddhist pilgrim Hyecho (Huichao) reached Palola. In 737 / 738 Tibetan troops
under the leadership of Minister sKyes-bzang ldong-tsab conquer Little Palola. 740/41: The Tibetan
Princess Khri-ma-lod was sent as a bride of Su-shih-li-chi, the ruler (rje) of Little Palola. 747:
Reconquest of Little Palola by a Chinese army under the leadership of the ethnic-Korean commander
Gao Xianzhi (Kao Hsien-chih).[15] 753: Conquest of Great Palola by a Chinese army under the
military Governor Feng Changqing until 755 due to the An Lushan rebellion the Chinese lost its
supremacy in Central Asia and in the regions around Gilgit baltitan.[16] Approx. from the year 720 up
to the 15th century Buddhism was still common in Gilgit Baltistan, while the Tibetan script replaced
Sanskrit as the written language .
Map of Tibetan Empire citing the areas of Gilgit Baltistan as part of its kingdom in 780-790 Ce.
Medieval History
Gilgit-Baltistan was ruled by many local rulers amongst them Maopons of skardu and Rajas of Hunza
were famous. The Persian geographical description of the "Regions of the world" (Ḥudūd al-'Ālam)
edited by V. Minorksy the countries Bolor (Bulūr, p. 121) and "Bolorian Tibet" (B. lūrī, p. 93) are
mentioned. According to this description "Bolorian Tibet" borders Bolor. The inhabitants are described
as dealers, living in tents and huts of fur. The country should extend to its length and width each 15 day
trips. Whether Baltistan can be identified with "Bolorian Tibet" is not researched.[citation needed] The
Maqpons of skardu unfied Gilgit baltistan with chitral, ladakh specially in the era of Ali Sher Khan
Anchan[17] who had a friendly relation with Mughal court.[18] Anchan reign brought prosperity in art,
sport,and variety in architecture He introduce polo in gilgit region and in chitral he sent group of
musician in Delhi to learn Indian music and due relation with Mughals The Mughal architecture
influenced Architecture of the region as well.[19]
After Anchan in his successors Abdal Khan had great influence though In the popular literature of
Baltistan he is still alive as dark figure by the nickname "Mizos" "man-eater".The last raja of Maqpons
was Ahmed Shah who ruled 1811-1840 in entire baltistan.The areas of Gilgit, Chitral, and Hunza get
independence of Maqpons many year before.[citation needed]
Modern History
In November 1839: Beginning of the campaign of Zorawar Singh against Baltistan.[20] 1839/1840:
Conquest of Skardu and capture of Ahmad Shah. Ahmad Shah was forced to accompany Zorawar
Singh on his raid into Western Tibet. Appointment of Baghwan Singh as administrator (Thanadar) in
Skardu. 1841: Successful uprising against the Dogras in Baltistan led by Ali Khan of Rondu, Haidar
Khan of Shigar, and Daulat Ali Khan from Khaplu. Capture of the Dogra commander Baghwan Singh
in Skardu.[21] 1842: The second conquest of Baltistan by the Dogra Commander Wasir Lakhpat with
the active support of Ali Sher Khan (III) from lKartaksho. Bloody capture of the fortress of
Kharphocho. Haidar Khan from Shigar, one of the leaders of the uprising against the Dogra,[22] was
imprisoned and died in captivity. Gosaun was appointed as administrator (Thanadar) for Baltistan and
til 1860, the entire region of Gilgit-Baltistan was conquered by the Sikhs and the Dogras. It was the
Dogras who incorporated Gilgit-Baltistan into Kashmir even though the people of the region are more
closely related to those of Ladakh and Chitral.[23][24] After the defeat of the Sikhs in the First Anglo-
Sikh War, it became a part of the princely state with the name Jammu and Kashmir in 1846 under the
rule of the Dogras who ruled the more than a century. It remained so till a rebellion, organized by a
mutineered Major Brown of the Gilgit Scouts overthrew Ghansara Singh, the Governor administering
the region on behalf of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir on 1 November 1947, and temporarily
installed an unrecognized state of their own. Raja Shah Rais Khan became the President while Mirza
Hassan Khan the Commander-in-Chief of the Gilgit scouts. The region had run its own government for
16 days but later on the approval of local residents, unconditionally offered Pakistan to take over the
administration.[25][26] Also After Pakistan's independence, Jammu and Kashmir initially remained an
independent state. Later On 22 October 1947, Tribal militias backed by Pakistan crossed the border in
Jammu and Kashmir with the claim that they needed to suppress a rebellion on the southeast of the
kingdom.[27][28] Local tribal militias and the Pakistani armed forces moved to take Srinagar but on
reaching Uri they encountered defensive forces. Hari Singh made a plea to India for assistance and
signed the Instrument of Accession. The British government also took part in stopping the Pakistani
forces from advancing.[29] On 20 January 1948, the UN passed a resolution which called for the
withdrawal of both countries forces from Jammu and Kashmir,[30] however a part of it (Known as
Azad Kashmir) has remained under the illegal control of Pakistan since then.[31] In 1970 the two part
territory was merged into a single administrative unit, and given the name "Northern Areas".[7] This
was actually first used by the United Nations to refer to the northern areas of Kashmir.[citation needed]
The Shaksgam tract was ceded by Pakistan to China following the signing of the Sino-Pakistani
Frontier Agreement in 1963.[32][33]
The last Maqpon Raja Ahmed Shah (died in prison in Srinagar by Dogra rulers. around 1845)
Before the demise of Shribadat, a group of Shin people migrated from Gilgit Dardistan and settled in
the Dras and Kharmang areas. The descendants of those Dardic people can be still found today, and is
believed that they have maintained their Dardic culture and Shina language up to the present time.
Government
Main article: Government of Gilgit-Baltistan
The territory of present-day Gilgit-Baltistan became a separate administrative unit in 1970 under the
name "Northern Areas". It was formed by the amalgamation of the former Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan
District of the Ladakh Wazarat, and the hill states of Hunza and Nagar. It presently consists of nine
districts, has a population approaching one million, an area of approximately 28,000 square miles
(73,000 km2), and shares borders with Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, and India. In 1993, an attempt was
made by the High Court of Azad Jammu and Kashmir to annex Gilgit-Baltistan but was quashed by the
Supreme Court of Pakistan after protests by the locals of Gilgit-Baltistan, who feared domination by
the Kashmiris.[34]
Government of Pakistan abolished State Subject Rule in Gilgit-Baltistan in 1974, which resulted in
demographic changes in the territory.[35][36] While administratively controlled by Pakistan since the
First Kashmir War, Gilgit-Baltistan has never been formally integrated into the Pakistani state and does
not participate in Pakistan's constitutional political affairs.[37][38] On 29 August 2009, the Gilgit-
Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009, was passed by the Pakistani cabinet and
later signed by the then President of Pakistan Asif Ali Zardari.[39] The order granted self-rule to the
people of Gilgit-Baltistan, by creating, among other things, an elected Gilgit-Baltistan Legislative
Assembly and Gilgit-Baltistan Council. Gilgit-Baltistan thus gained a de facto province-like status
without constitutionally becoming part of Pakistan.[9][37] Officially, Pakistan has rejected Gilgit-
Baltistani calls for integration with Pakistan on the grounds that it would prejudice its international
obligations with regard to the Kashmir conflict.[34] Some Kashmiri nationalist groups, such as the
Jammu and Kashmir Liberation Front, claim Gilgit-Baltistan as part of a future independent state to
match what existed in 1947.[34] India, on the other hand, maintains that Gilgit-Baltistan is a part of the
Indian controlled state of Jammu and Kashmir.[40]
Map of Gilgit-Baltistan, showing the boundaries of six of the nine present districts and their tehsils.
The boundary between the recently created Hunza-Nagar District and the now smaller Gilgit District is
the same line as the northern boundary of the former Gilgit Tehsil. That tehsil appears as the
southernmost division of the area shown above in light blue. Aliabad, the administrative center of the
new Hunza-Nagar District, is not yet shown on this map. Note: An up-to-date map showing the
boundaries of all nine of the present districts is sorely needed.
Administrative divisions
Gilgit-Baltistan is administratively divided into two divisions which, in turn, are divided into ten
districts, consisting of the four Baltistan districts of Skardu, Shigar, Kharmang, and Ghanche, and the
six Gilgit districts of Gilgit, Ghizer, Diamer, Astore, Hunza and Nagar .[41] The principal
administrative centers are the towns of Gilgit and Skardu.
Division District Area (km²) Capital Population (1998) Divisional Capital
Baltistan Ghanche 4,052 Khaplu 90,000 Skardu
Shigar 8,500 Shigar 109,000
Kharmang 5,500 Kharmang 188,000
Skardu 8,000 Skardu 219,000*
Gilgit Gilgit 16,300 Gilgit 148,000 Gilgit
Diamer 10,936 Chilas 135,000
Ghizer 9,635 Gahkuch 121,000
Astore 5,092 Eidghah 72,000
Hunza 7,900 Aliabad -
Nagar 5,000 Nagar -
Total 72,496 Gilgit 884,000
(*) Combined population of Skardu, Shigar and Kharmang Districts. Shigar and Kharmang Districts
were carved out of Skardu District after 1998, after which no official census data are available. The
overall annual population growth rate in Gilgit-Baltistan is 2.61%, and the projected population is
about 1.3 million (2013).[42]
Climate
The climate of Gilgit-Baltistan varies from region to region, surrounding mountain ranges creates sharp
variations in weather. The eastern part has the moist zone of the western Himalayas, but going toward
Karakoram and Hindu Kush, the climate dries considerably.[48]
There are towns like Gilgit and Chilas that are very hot during the day in summer yet cold at night and
valleys like Astore, Khaplu, Yasin, Hunza, and Nagar, where the temperatures are cold even in summer.
Mountaineering
View of Laila Peak, which is located near Hushe Valley (a town in Khaplu)
The Trango Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world,
and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the
challenging granite.[53]
Gilgit-Baltistan is home to more than 20 peaks of over 20,000 feet (6,100 m), including K2, the second
highest mountain on Earth.[54] Other well known peaks include Masherbrum (also known as K1),
Broad Peak, Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum IV, and Chogolisa, situated in Khaplu Valley.
The following peaks have so far been scaled by various expeditions:
Name of Peak Photos Height Date of Conquest Location
Sports
This section requires expansion. (January 2010)
Polo is the favourite game of the people of Gilgit, Skardu, Ghanche, Chilas, Astore, Hunza, Nagar, and
the surrounding areas.[citation needed] Every year, many tourists visit to enjoy polo in Gilgit-Baltistan.
"Polo" is a Persian word which means "ball".
Other games such as cricket, tuksori of Nagar, gulli danda, kabbadi, and volleyball are also played.[55]
Demographics
At the last census (1998), the population of Gilgit-Baltistan was 870,347.[42] Approximately 14% of
the population was urban.[57] The estimated population Gilgit-Baltistan in 2013 is over 2 million. The
population of Gilgit-Baltistan consists of many diverse linguistic, ethnic, and religious sects, due in part
to the many isolated valleys separated by some of the world's highest mountains. The ethnic groups
include Shins, Yashkuns, Kashmiris, Kashgaris,Pamiris, Pathans, and Kohistanis.[58] A significant
number of people from Gilgit-Baltistan are resident in other parts of Pakistan mainly in Punjab and
Karachi. The literacy rate of Gilgit-Baltistan is approximately 72%.
Languages
Gilgit Baltistan is a multi lingual region where Urdu being national / official language serves as lingua
franca for inter ethnic communications. English is co official and also used in education, while Arabic
is used for religious purposes. Table below shows break up of Gilgit Baltistan first language speakers.
1998 census,
Rank Language [59][60][61] Detail
[62]
It is spoken by majority in six Tehsils (Gilgit, Diamir/Chilas,
1 Shina 38% Darel/Tangir, Astore, Puniyal/Gahkuch and Rondu). It is very
close to Kashmiri and Punjabi languages.
It is spoken by majority in five Tehsils (Skardu/Shigar,Kharmang,
2 Balti 28% Gultari, Khaplu and Mashabrum). It is from the Tibetan language
family and has Urdu borrowings.
It is spoken by majority in four Tehsils (Nagar
3 Burushaski 12% 1,Hunza/Aliabad,Nagar II, and Yasin). It is a language isolate that
has borrowed considerable Urdu vocablary.
It is spoken by majority in two Tehsils (Gupis and Ishkomen but
4 Khowar 12% also spoken in Yasin and Puniyal/Gahkuch Tehsils). Like Shina, it
is a Dardic language with Kalasha influences.
It is spoken by majority in one Tehsil (Gojal but also spoken in
5 Wakhi 6% Ishkomen and Yasin Tehsils). It is classified as eastern Iranian/
Pamiri language.
Punjabi, Pashto, Kashmiri, Domaaki (spoken by musician clans in
Others 7% the region) and Gojri languages are also spoken by a significant
population of the region.
Religion
The population of Gilgit-Baltistan is Muslim. Some sources put overall demographics as sunni 35% ,
Shia Twelvers 35%, Ismaili 20%, and Noorbakhshis 10%. [63] [64][65]
Culture
Provincial symbols of Gilgit-Baltistan (unofficial)
Provincial animal Yak
Gilgit-Baltistan is home to a number of diversified cultures, ethnic groups, languages and various
backgrounds. It is home to people belonging to all regions of Gilgit-Baltistan as well as from other
cities of Pakistan and aboard.[66] Cultural events include:[66]
• Navroz
• Jashn-e-Baharan
• Shandoor Polo Festival
• Babusar Polo Festival
• Harvest Time Festival.
These festivals are opportunities for local people and tourists to get together and share their skills.
Moreover, Gilgit-Baltistan is also famous for its dance. Following are the kinds of dances famous in
tourists and local people of Gilgit-Baltistan:[66]
• Old Man Dance: In this dance more than one person wears old-style dresses.
• Cow Boy Dance (Payaloo): In this dance a person wears old style dress, long leather shoes and
a stick in hand.
• Sword Dance: In this unique dance the participants show taking one sword in right and shield in
left. One to six participants as pair can dance.