Fabric and Testing Manual EU Own Buy Apparel: Version 1, February 16

Fabric and Testing Manual
EU Own Buy Apparel
Version 1, February ‘16

Contents
Section Product
Section 1 Care Symbols
Section 2 Labelling
Section 3 Reduced Testing Procedure
Section 4 Testing Tables and Assessment Criteria
Section 5 Appendices
Version 2, November 2016

Section 1
Care Symbols
All garments must be tested to 40 degrees (no bar) machine washing as standard.
All 5 symbols must display on the care label and in the below order.
Wash Symbol Description Product
Do Not Wash To be used for dry clean or wipe clean only

products.
Hand Wash To be used for delicate product such as

embellishment.
40 Degree Machine Wash To be used as the standard for all garments.
40 Degree Delicate Wash To be used for underwear.
40 Degree Wool Wash To be used for true knitwear only.
Bleach Symbol Description Product
Use only non-chlorine To be used as the standard for all garments.

bleach when needed
Do Not Bleach When garments cannot be bleached

Drying Symbol Description Product
Cool Tumble Dry To be used when garments cann be tumble

dried.
Do Not Tumble Dry To be used as standard for all garments.
Iron Symbol Description Product
Do Not Iron To be used for garments with coatings or

dry clean only products.
Cool Iron (Max plate temp To be used for lightweight or pressure

110 degrees) sensitive cloths.
Medium Iron (Max plate To be used for cloths such as polyester,

temp 150 degrees) viscose, wool or silk.
Hot Iron (Max plate temp To be used for cloths such as linen or wool.
200 degrees)
Dry Clean Symbol Description Product
Do Not Dry Clean To be used as the standard for all garments.
Professional Dry Clean, To be used for all dry clean only products
Perchloroethylene Solvents, such as tailoring.
Normal Process
Professional Dry Clean, To be used for delicate, dry clean only

Perchloroethylene Solvents, products such as embellishment.
Mild Process

Section 2
Labelling
Care Labels:
 Vendors may print/order their own label using the artwork in appendix 1.
 Care label wording and translations are available on the Vendor Website.
 Garments with multiple parts (belts, removable hoods, liners) must be labelled ‘part of a set’.
 Garment with removable liners should have two care labels. One per item.
 True vintage does not require new care labels however reworked vintage (overdyed or hybrid) will
require additional labelling at the discretion of the technologist.
The following information must appear on the care label as standard:
 RN #66170
 CA #32054
 24 Market Place, 3rd Floor
London, UK W1W8AN
 PO Number
Fibres and Fibre Content:
 Fibre content must be listed on all products by generic fibre name, in predominance by weight of
fibre, to the nearest 3%.
Example: 90% Cotton 10% Polyester
 If a product is composed of two or more sections, with different fibre contents, the fibre content of
each section should be shown separately.
Example: Body: 100% Cotton, Sleeve: 50% Polyester, 50% Cotton
 Only approved names for textile fibres may be used. Please see appendix 2.
 Decorative trims do not need to be included in the fibre composition wording on the care label. This
only applies to embellishment not integral to the garment.

Leather:
 Applies to tanned products of animal origin.
 Genuine leather goods must include the species in Fabric Content description.
Example: Cow Leather
 The label must also state: ‘contains non-textile parts of animal origin’
Faux Fur:
 Faux fur products must be labeled with the words “Faux Fur”, in addition to any other applicable
labeling requirements.
Real Fur:
 Fur products must be labeled to comply with FTC regulations as well as any US State regulations.
 The animal name

 The name or RN of the manufacturer, importer or another seller, marketer, or distributor
 The country of origin for imported fur
 If the fur is pointed, dyed, bleached or artificially colored
 If none of these treatments applies, the fur should be labeled “natural”
 If the fur product is composed in whole or substantial part
 If the fur is used or damaged
 The textile or wool content of any part of the product
 The label must also state: ‘contains non-textile parts of animal origin’
 For further detail on fur can be found on: https://www.ftc.gov/node/119458
Polyurethane (PU) and Polyvinylchloride (PVC):
 Must be clearly labelled as ‘faux’ leather.
 Bonded cloths to be quoted: Face and Backing.
 A percentage must not be used when stating these materials and the chemical names must not be
abbreviated to PU or PVC.
o E.g. ARTIFICIAL LEATHER: Polyurethane. Backing: 100% polyester

Mohair (Angora Goat Hair):
 Vendors must label all mohair products as “Mohair: Angora Goat Hair”.
Devoré and Burnout
 The sample used for Devoré fibre composition testing must be big enough to represent the entire
pattern.
 Fibre composition should be tested before the burnout process on burn out fabrics.
Velvets, plush, pile and faux fur fabrics:
For all the above fabrics, where the fabric is comprised of a backing and raised surface, both the pile and
backing should be listed on the care label.
o E.g. Pile: 100% Polyester, Backing: 100% viscose
If the composition of both parts is the same, a total fibre composition is accepted.
Feather and Down:
All product supplied to Urban Outfitters must comply with EU legislation: EU/142/2011 and the relevant US
and Canadian requirements.
 Vendors must only use feathers that are a by-product of the commercial food industry.
 Feathers must not be from protected species.
 Further guidance can be found on: http://eur-lex.europa.eu
Products containing feathers must be labelled with:
 Genus. For example, ‘Turkey Feathers’.

 ‘Contains non-textile parts of animal origin’
Suppliers must also provide:
 Sanitation certificate including the oxygen index number for all product with over 5mg of feathers
 Country of origin of the feathers
 Confirmation of sterilisation method

Flammability:
 The KAFF warning appears on all EU care labels as standard.
KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE (red letters, 10 point, upper case)
 Nightwear must also comply with the following:

Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985
BS5722:1984, The British Standard for the flammability of nightwear.
 US Flammability of Wearing Apparel 16 CFR 1610
Required for all products with a plain surface fabrics weighing 88.2g/² m (2.6 oz/yd²)
or less made from non-exempt fibres –
Abaca, Acetate, Alginate, Chlorofibre, Cotton, Coir, Cupro, Elastane, Elastodiene,

Flax, Flurofibre, Glass Fibre, Jute, Hemp, Kapok, Linen, Lyocell, Metallized Fibre,
Modal, Paper, Polycarbamine, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polyurethane, Protein,
Silk, Triacetate, Trivinyl, Viscose.
OR raised fibre surface if made of non-exempt fibres
 US Flammability of Vinyl Film 16 CFR 1611

Required for all unsupported vinyl film materials but not coated fabrics. Generally transparent or
semi-transparent plastic materials.

Section 3
Reduced Testing Procedure
Additional testing may be required at the technologist(s) request.
Reduced Quantity: Testing requirements for 700 units or less:
 Fibre Composition
 Appearance After Washing or Dry Cleaning (DC for tailoring and coats only)
 Dimensional Stability to Washing
 Flammability (where applicable)
Minimum Quantity: Testing requirements for 701 to 1500 units:
 Fibre Composition
 Appearance After Washing or Dry Cleaning (DC for tailoring and coats only)
 Dimensional Stability to Washing
 Flammability (where applicable)
 Seam Slippage or Bursting Strength
 Residual Extension
 Pilling
 Colour Fastness to Wet and Dry Rubbing (denim only)
 Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water (swimwear only)
Full Testing: Required for orders of 1501 units and over

Section 4
Testing Tables
1. WOVENS, DENIM and OUTERWEAR (including beachwear & linings)
2. KNITWEAR
3. JERSEY
4. SWIMWEAR
5. LINGERIE (all fabric types within Bra, Corsetry & Stretch Lingerie)
6. FAKE FUR AND TRIMS
7. PVC & PU COATED FABRICS
8. LEATHER (including sheepskin, shearling, lamb)
9. HOSIERY AND SOCKS
10. ASSESSMENT TABLES

WOVENS, DENIM and OUTERWEAR (including beachwear & linings) URBN0005/07
BASE TESTS
TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. +/-3% Test must be carried out on all single fibres
tolerance from declared on care label and blends.
Fabric Weight BS 2471:2005 As claimed (+/-5%)
Dimensional Stability BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 3% +/- woven or 5% +/- for knitted & Washable garments only - Test to 40 degrees
to Washing fabrics with > 55% viscose no bars, 5A.
Dimensional Stability BS EN ISO 139: 2005 + + / -3% woven or 5% +/- for knitted & When garment is not machine washable
to Dry Clean A1:2011 fabrics with > 55% viscose
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936 -2: 2004 SO 6mm, 8kg Light Sewing, 12kg Heavy Use a 3mm opening on fabrics, with contrast
Sewing warp and weft threads. Seam testing may be
BS EN ISO 13935 -2: 2014 Seam Strength - 12kg Light Sewing, 18kg required on denim.
Heavy Sewing
Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 – 2: 2013 12kg Delicates, 15kg Light Sewing, 21kg
Heavy Sewing
Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1: 2000 700g Delicate Fabrics, 1000g Light Sewing, Cellulosic fabric only. Not required on stretch
1200g Heavy. denim
Residual Extension for 5% Max Required for fabrics containing elastic blends
Woven Fabric
Pilling Resistance Martindale BS EN 12945 – 3-4 (2000 revs) After cleansing Only for fabrics containing Wool, Acrylic or
2: 2000 spun Nylon
Abrasion Resistance Martindale BS EN ISO 4C at 5,000 revs, 10,000 on Delicate Required on Outerwear only
12947-2: 1999 (shade change on faux suede), 15,000 on
Light Sewing, 20,000 on Heavy
Sewing/Denim. (Denim 3-4C at 5000 revs)
Wearing Apparel 16CFR PART 1610 EN1021 Class 1 - Plain & Raised Surface fabrics DOES NOT APPLY TO: Plain surface fabrics
Flammability (US) weighing 88.2g/² (2.6oz/yd²) or greater.
Fabrics made entirely from or combinations
of: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin,
Polyester or Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance After See assessment table (BS See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40
Wash EN 20105 A02 grey scale) degrees no bars (5A) as standard.
Appearance after Dry See assessment table See assessment table When garment is not machine washable
Clean
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S N/A on white & cream fabrics
Rubbing Wet: 3-4 Wet rub for denim only
Colour Fastness to TS-001 soaking Test 4 Pass: Use Non Chlorinated Bleach symbol.
Non Chlorinated Fail: use Do Not Bleach symbol
Bleach
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - B02:2014 4S
Light
PH of Water – Extract AATC 81 Whites: 5.0-6.5
Nylon and Protein Fibres: 4-7
Sulphur Dyed: 6.5-7.5
Others: 5.0-8.0
Snagging Resistance BS 8479: 2008 Contrast fabrics: 4, Other Fabrics: 3 - 4 Only required on fabrics containing 100%
continuous filament yarns
Surface Flash BS 4569: 1983 Pass On fabrics with pile, hair, nap and surface
textures over 3mm. Cellulosic and
Cellulose blends, Ramie/ Cotton, Chenille.
Including trims
Spray Test BS EN 4920: 2012 4 (before cleansing), 3-4 (after cleansing) Shower resistant fabrics only
Water Resistance AATCC 35 Max 1 gram of water, at 2 mins, under Waterproof garments only
600mm pressure

KNITWEAR
BASE TESTS
Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 0% for single fibre content. +/-3% for Test must be carried out on all single fibres
blends and blends
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 +3%/-5% less than 7gg. '+3%/-7% more Washable garments only - Test to 40
Stability to Washing than 7gg degrees 2 bar, 7A
Dimensional BN EN ISO 139: 2005 + +3%/-5% less than 7gg. '+3%/-7% more When garment is not machine washable
Stability to Dry A1:2011 than 7gg
Clean
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 30mm aperture, 230kPa Required only at Technologist request
1999
Pilling Resistance Martindale BS EN 12945 –2: Grade 4 at 500 revs Required on all fabrics except those
2000 containing 100% continuous filament yarns
Polyester or Wool
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table (BS See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40
Wash EN 20105 A02 grey scale) degrees two bar (7A) as standard
Appearance after See assessment table See assessment table When garment is not machine washable
Dry Clean
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S N/A on white & cream fabrics
Rubbing Wet: 3-4
Colour Fastness to TS-001 soaking Test 4 Pass: Use Non-Chlorinated Bleach symbol.
Non-Chlorinated Fail: use Do Not Bleach symbol
Bleach
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E01: 2013 4S N/A on white & cream fabrics or fabrics
Water with Wool, Nylon or Silk

Light
continuous filament yarns. MACE method
may be requested, req. 3-4 @300revs
Residual Extension BS EN 14704 -1: 2005 Un-recovered elongation after 1 min, 8% Required on fabrics containing more than
Method A max - Load 3kg Woven. After 30 mins - 3% elastomeric fibres
5% max
Surface Flash BS 4569: 1983 Grade 4 On Cellulosic and Cellulose blends, Ramie/
Cotton, Chenille. Including trims

JERSEY (including nightwear & underwear)
BASE TESTS
Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 0% for generic fibre content. +/-3% Test must be carried out on all single fibres
manufacturing tolerance from declared and blends.
on care label
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 '+3%/-7% (100% viscose, other Washable garments only - Test to 40
Stability to Washing regenerated cellulosic fabrics & blends) degrees no bar, 5A.
Dimensional BN EN ISO 139: 2005 + '+3%/-7% (100% viscose, other When garment is not machine washable
Stability to Dry A1:2011 regenerated cellulosic fabrics & blends)
Clean
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 30mm aperture, 175Pa (lace), 250kPa Not required when fabric contains more that
1999 (tops/vests), 350Pa (shorts, crops, 11% elastane
leggings)
Pilling Resistance Martindale BS EN 12945 –2: 4 @ 500 revs Only on fabrics containing Wool, Acrylic,
2000 Viscose or spun Nylon or Polyester, Cotton
blends with elastane & synthetic blends
Polyester or Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table (BS EN See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40 degrees
Wash 20105 A02 grey scale) no bars as standard.
Dry Clean
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S N/A on white & cream fabrics. Required on
Rubbing Wet: 3-4 nightwear, underwear, pigment dyed fabrics
& pigment prints
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E01: 2013 4S N/A on white & cream fabrics or fabrics with
Water Wool, Nylon or Silk
Light
Colour Fastness to TS-001 soaking Test 4 Pass: Use Non-Chlorinated Bleach symbol.
Non-Chlorinated Fail: use Do Not Bleach symbol
Bleach
Snagging Resistance BS 8479: 2008. Contrast fabrics: 4, Other Fabrics: 3 - 4 Only required on fabrics containing 100%
continuous filament yarns. MACE method
may be requested, req. 3-4 @300revs
Residual Extension BS EN 14704 -1: 2005 Un-recovered elongation after 1 min, 10% Only required on fabrics containing elastane
Method A max - Load 3kg Woven. After 30 mins - 5%
max
Surface Flash BS 4569: 1983 Grade 4 On fabrics with pile, hair, nap and surface
textures over 3mm. Cellulosic and Cellulose
blends, Ramie/ Cotton, Chenille. Including
trims

SWIMWEAR
BASE TESTS
on care label
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 +3%/-5%, +3%/-7% (100% viscose, other Washable garments only - Test to 40
Stability to Washing regenerated cellulosic fabrics & blends) degrees no bar, 5A.
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 30mm aperture, 175Pa (lace), 250kPa For jersey fabrics only. Not required when
1999 (tops and bottoms) fabric contains more than 11% elastane
Polyester or Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table (BS EN See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40 degrees
Wash 20105 A02 grey scale) no bars (5A) as standard.
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S N/A on white & cream fabrics.
Rubbing Wet: 3-4
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - B02:2014 5
Light
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E03: 2010 50mg/l, 4C
Chlorinated Water
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E02: 2013 4 C, 4 S, Cross Stain: 4-5 (when garment
Sea Water has contrast trim)
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E04: 2013 4 C, 4 S, Cross Stain: 4-5 (when garment
Perspiration has contrast trim)
continuous filament yarns.
Residual Extension BS EN 14704 -1: 2005 10% max Only required on fabrics containing elastane
Method A

LINGERIE (all fabric types within BRA, CORSETRY & STRETCH LINGERIE)
BASE TESTS
on care label
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 ' +1%/-5% Flat Dry on length & width Washable garments only - Test to 40 degrees
Stability to Washing one bar, 6A.
- stretch
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 +1%/- 3% length & width Washable garments only - Test to 40 degrees
Stability to Washing one bar, 6A.
– non-stretch
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 175Pa Not required when fabric contains more than
1999 11% elastane
Seam Slippage - BS EN ISO 13936 -2: 2004 Seam Opening 6mm @ 8kg Min Not required for stretch fabrics
Woven
Seam Slippage - BS EN ISO 13935 -2: 2014 Stretch Fabrics only
Stretch Woven
Seam Strength - 12kg Min Non-stretch fabrics only
Woven
Seam Strength - 14kg Min Stretch Fabrics only (Single & bi-stretch)
Stretch Woven
Pilling Resistance Martindale BS EN 12945 –2: Grade 4 at 500 revs Only on fabrics containing Wool, Acrylic or
2000 spun Nylon or Polyester
Tensile Strength - BS EN 20139:1992 12kg Delicates, 15kg Light Sewing, 18kg Not required for stretch fabrics
Woven Bras, 27kg Corsetry
Tear Strength - BS EN ISO 13937-1:2000 1200g Min Not required on 100% filament Nylon or
Woven Polyester (except microfiber &
brushed/emerised fabrics)
Fabrics made entirely from or combinations of:
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester or
Wool.
BULK TESTS

Appearance after See assessment table See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40 degrees
Wash no bars as standard.
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S N/A on white & cream fabrics. Required on
Rubbing Wet: 3-4 nightwear, underwear, pigment dyed fabrics &
pigment prints
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E01: 2013 4S N/A on white & cream fabrics
Water
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - B02:2014 4 Min
Light
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E04: 2013 4 C, 4 S Acid or Alkali. Cross Stain: 4-5 N/A on white & cream fabrics or fabrics.
Perspiration (when garment has contrast trim) Required on fabrics with Wool, Nylon or Silk
Residual Extension - BS EN 14704 -1: 2005 10% max Only required on Jersey fabrics containing
stretch Method A elastane
Residual Extension - BS EN 14704 -1: 2005 5% max Woven Stretch Fabric only (Elastane blends or
Woven Method A mechanical stretch)

FAKE FUR
BASE TESTS
tolerance from declared on care label and blends.
Quoted as Pile and Backing
Dimensional Stability BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 3% +/- woven or 5% +/- for knitted Washable garments only - Test to 40 degrees
to Washing no bars 5A.
Dimensional Stability BN EN ISO 139: 2005 + + / -3% When garment is not machine washable
to Dry Clean A1:2011
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936 -2: 2004 SO 6mm, 8kg Light Sewing Woven Fabrics only, not required for trims
Seam Strength 12kg
Tensile Strength 15kg
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 350kPa 30mm diaphragm. Jersey Fabrics only
1999
Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1: 2000 1000g Woven Fabrics only, not required for trims or
stretch fabrics. Not required on 100% filament
Nylon, Polyester
Apparel Wearing 16CFR PART 1610 EN1021 Class 1 - Plain & Raised Surface fabrics DOES NOT APPLY TO: Plain surface fabrics
Fabrics made entirely from or combinations of:
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester or
Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40 degrees
Wash no bars as standard.
Appearance after Dry See assessment table See assessment table When garment is not machine washable
Clean

Light
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E01: 2013 4S N/A on white & cream fabrics
Water
Fibre Shedding/Long BA EN 20139:1992 Grade 4 Required on cut pile where pile is longer than
Pile Fabrics 3mm
Surface Flash BS 4569: 1983 Pass On fabrics with pile, hair, nap and surface
textures over 3mm. Cellulosic and Cellulose
blends, Ramie/ Cotton, Chenille. Including
trims

PVC & PU COATED FABRICS
BASE TESTS
Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 0% Generic Fibre Tolerance. +/-3% Test must be carried out on fabrics with a light
tolerance from declared on care coating.
label. Also, verify the coating Quoted as Coating & Backing
content
Dimensional BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 3% +/- woven or 5% +/- for knitted Washable garments only - Test to 40 degrees no
Stability to Washing bar, 5A.
Dimensional BN EN ISO 139: 2005 + + / -3% When garment is not machine washable
Stability to Dry Clean A1:2011
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 350kPa Fabrics with Knitted or non-woven base
1999
Abrasion Resistance Martindale BS EN ISO 12947- Wear rating 4, Shade Change 4 Coated Fabrics only
2: 1999
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936 -2: 2004 SO 6mm 12kg Fabrics with woven base.
Seam Strength 18kg
Tensile Strength 18kg
Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1: 2000 18kg Fabrics with woven base. Not required on 100%
filament Nylon, Polyester
Flex Crumple > 9000 cycles Coated Fabrics only
Wearing Apparel 16CFR PART 1610 EN1021 Class 1 - Plain & Raised Surface DOES NOT APPLY TO: Plain surface fabrics
Flammability (US) fabrics weighing 88.2g/² (2.6oz/yd²) or greater. Fabrics
made entirely from or combinations of: Acrylic,
Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester or Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40 degrees no
Wash bars as standard.
Dry Clean
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S

Rubbing

Light

LEATHER (including sheepskin, shearling, lamb)
BASE TESTS

Composition (Skin Material type: EU Regulation Genus Applicable for all leather & suede. Only
Authentication/ 1007/2011. BS EN 15987: tanned (animal skin) can be labelled as
Specification) 2015. US Reg 16 CFR 301 leather.
Chromium VI BS EN ISO 17075: 2007 3mg/kg In line with REACH 1907: 2006
Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 13520: 2001 Moderate wear only after 20,000 dry rub
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 30mm aperture, 230kPa Required only at Technologist request
1999
Flex Crumple BS EN ISO 5402-1:2011 No cracking or damage after 50,000

flexes (dry)
Surface Flash BS 4569: 1983 Pass On leathers with pile, hair, nap and surface
textures over 3mm.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after Dry See assessment table See assessment table Printed/embellished garments to have x3
Clean DC cycles. All other x1 DC cycle.
Dimensional Stability BN EN ISO 139: 2005 + + / -3% Test whole garment

to Specialist Dry Clean A1:2011
Colour Fastness to BS 1006: 2012 Aniline, Semi-Aniline, Pigmented Leather

Rubbing - Min 50 Cycles Dry: 4, Min 20 cycles
Wet: 3. Suede & Nubuck - Dry: 3-4S,
Wet:3S
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - 11642: 2012 Leather, Suede & Nubuck: 3. Semi-
Water Aniline, Pigmented Leather: 4
Seam Strength BS EN 5131 - 5.13: 1980 Min 10N/mm On garments made in factory only - should
represent bulk production.
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - B02:2014 Aniline, Suede & Nubuck: 3, Semi-Aniline
Light & Pigmented: 4

HOSIERY & SOCKS
BASE TESTS
tolerance from declared on care label. Also and blends.
verify the coating content
Dimensional Stability BS EN ISO 6330: 2012 Assess fit on appropriate size volumetric Required for Stockings & Tights. Not
to Washing leg required for Nylon fine gauge hosiery- Test
to 40 degrees one bar, 6A.
Dimensional Stability AATCC 158: 2005 1% / -8% - fit sock to relevant board before Required for Socks only (Assess foot & leg
of Socks & after wash length only)
Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938 – 1 or 2: 175kPa Tights & Stockings, 350kPa Not required on Socks
1999 Heavyweight tights
Flammability 16CFR PART 1610 EN1021 Class 1 - Plain & Raised Surface fabrics DOES NOT APPLY TO: Plain surface fabrics
weighing 88.2g/² (2.6oz/yd²) or greater.
Fabrics made entirely from or
combinations of: Acrylic, Modacrylic,
Nylon, Olefin, Polyester or Wool.
BULK TESTS
Appearance after See assessment table See assessment table Washable garments only - Test at 40
Wash degree no bars (5A) as standard.
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - X12: 2002 Dry: 4 S

Rubbing
Colour Fastness to BS EN ISO 105 - E01: 2013 4S N/A on white & cream fabrics or fabrics
Water with Wool, Nylon or Silk

Below are the Assessment tables to be followed when conducting Garment Appearance Tests.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA FOR APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING
ASSESSMENT PASS FAIL

A Colour change/ loss using grey scale 3 - 4 or better (assess item Less than 3 - 4
assessment (BS EN ISO 105 A02) and m-f strip)
B Cross staining i.e. colour transfer onto 4-5 or better Less than 4-5
component parts (BS EN ISO 105 A03)
C Fraying of fabric and trims. Not frayed Frayed
D Detachment of fastenings and trims Not detached Detached

Buttons: pull test
Zipper 3x open and close
Snaps/ hooks: 3x
E Spirality/ twisting of seams. Less than 5% 5% >

Calculate spirality.
F Grinning / opening of seams. Measure 4mm or less More than 4mm
seam opening.
G Pilling or fuzzing of surface fibres. Assess Woven – 4 or better Woven less than 4
degree of pilling / fuzzing using BS EN ISO
12945-1 grades. Knitted – 3 or better Knitted less than 3
H Pile loss or flattening of pile. Assess using 4 or better Less than 4

grey scales.
I Corrosion / damage to trims including No corrosion or Corrosion or damage

chipping and scratching of coatings. damage
J Delamination of fused No delamination Delamination

components.
K Free running and operation of zip fastener. Slide free and operable end Poor function
stops/ closures.
L Differential shrinkage, distortion, No changes Changes observed

wrinkling and twisting of components
and seams.
M Unravelling / breaks in stitching. No changes Loose or damaged

threads
N Wadding moved within casing or fibre No changes Changes observed
migration
O Other observed changes None observed Changes observed

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA FOR PRINTS

A Examine whilst damp and note any No significant Significant changes
significant changes in appearance. changes
Place specimens on drying racks and allow to dry. Assess any appearance change when dry and record any changes of
the print / motif as stated below:
B Colour change / loss using grey scale 4 or better (assess item Less than 4
assessment and m-f strip if
(BS EN ISO 105 A02) applicable)
C Raised surface fibre showing through No raised surface fibre Raised surface fibre
the print on all colours. showing through print showing through print
D Cracking of print on all colours. No cracking Cracking
E Loss of adhesion (peeling off) of the print No loss of adhesion Loss of adhesion
on all colours.
F Cross staining of the print on all colours. 4-5 or better Less than 4-5
G Loss of print – report as slight, moderate No loss of print Loss of print

or severe.
H Other observed changes None observed Changes observed
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA FOR EMBELLISHMENT

A Examine after laundering and note any No significant Significant changes
significant changes in appearance. changes
B Corrosion / damage to trims No corrosion or Corrosion or damage

including chipping and scratching of damage
coatings.
C Puckering of fabric around the No puckering Puckering
embellishment.
D Beads or diamante: Are claws intact? Claws intact Claws not intact
E Unravelling / breaks / snags in stitching No changes Changes observed
F Cross staining i.e. colour transfer onto other No cross staining Cross staining
embellishments or fabrics.
G Loss of colour / finish of embellishment – No loss of colour/ Loss of colour/ finish

report as slight, moderate or severe. finish
H Other observed changes None observed Changes observed

Section 5
Appendices
Appendix 1: Care labels
Apparel: UO UK CC B
Apparel: UO UK CC W

Jeans: In addition to UO UK CC B/ W you are required to apply the below print to the internal pocket bag. LHSAW.
Intimates: AIUCL C PF11-923

Socks: Care instructions are printed on the reverse of the packaging
Tights: Care instructions are printed on the reverse of the packaging

Appendix 2: Approved Fibre Composition Terminology
Acetate Lyocell
Acrylic Metallised yarns/fibres
Alpaca Modacrylic
Angora Modal
Cashgora Mohair
Cashmere Nylon
Chlorofibre Other fibres
Coir Polyester
Cotton Polyamide
Cupro Polypropylene
Elastane Ramie
Elastodiene Silk
Elastomultiester Sisal
Flax Triacetate
Hemp Vicuna
Jute Viscose
Kapok Wool
Linen

Fabric and Testing Manual EU Own Buy Apparel: Version 1, February 16

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Fabric and Testing Manual EU Own Buy Apparel: Version 1, February 16

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Fabric and Testing Manual

EU Own Buy Apparel

Version 1, February ‘16

Section 1 Care Symbols

Section 3 Reduced Testing Procedure

Section 4 Testing Tables and Assessment Criteria

Version 2, November 2016

Wash Symbol Description Product

Do Not Wash To be used for dry clean or wipe clean only

Hand Wash To be used for delicate product such as

40 Degree Machine Wash To be used as the standard for all garments.

40 Degree Delicate Wash To be used for underwear.

40 Degree Wool Wash To be used for true knitwear only.

Bleach Symbol Description Product

Use only non-chlorine To be used as the standard for all garments.

Do Not Bleach When garments cannot be bleached

Version 2, November 2016

Cool Tumble Dry To be used when garments cann be tumble

Do Not Tumble Dry To be used as standard for all garments.

Iron Symbol Description Product

Do Not Iron To be used for garments with coatings or

Cool Iron (Max plate temp To be used for lightweight or pressure

Medium Iron (Max plate To be used for cloths such as polyester,

Dry Clean Symbol Description Product

Do Not Dry Clean To be used as the standard for all garments.

Professional Dry Clean, To be used for delicate, dry clean only

Version 2, November 2016

The following information must appear on the care label as standard:

Fibres and Fibre Content:

Example: 90% Cotton 10% Polyester

Example: Body: 100% Cotton, Sleeve: 50% Polyester, 50% Cotton

Version 2, November 2016

 Applies to tanned products of animal origin.

Example: Cow Leather

 The animal name

Polyurethane (PU) and Polyvinylchloride (PVC):

 Must be clearly labelled as ‘faux’ leather.

 Bonded cloths to be quoted: Face and Backing.

o E.g. ARTIFICIAL LEATHER: Polyurethane. Backing: 100% polyester

Version 2, November 2016

Devoré and Burnout

Velvets, plush, pile and faux fur fabrics:

o E.g. Pile: 100% Polyester, Backing: 100% viscose

Feather and Down:

Products containing feathers must be labelled with:

 Genus. For example, ‘Turkey Feathers’.

Suppliers must also provide:

Version 2, November 2016

 The KAFF warning appears on all EU care labels as standard.

KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE (red letters, 10 point, upper case)

 Nightwear must also comply with the following:

 US Flammability of Wearing Apparel 16 CFR 1610

Abaca, Acetate, Alginate, Chlorofibre, Cotton, Coir, Cupro, Elastane, Elastodiene,

OR raised fibre surface if made of non-exempt fibres

 US Flammability of Vinyl Film 16 CFR 1611

Version 2, November 2016

Additional testing may be required at the technologist(s) request.

Reduced Quantity: Testing requirements for 700 units or less:

Minimum Quantity: Testing requirements for 701 to 1500 units:

Full Testing: Required for orders of 1501 units and over

Version 2, November 2016

1. WOVENS, DENIM and OUTERWEAR (including beachwear & linings)