Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 172

Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine

Operation Manual
Product Code 885-V31/V32/V33
GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

EMBROIDERY

APPENDIX

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com


p
where you can get product support and answers to
frequently asked questions (FAQs).
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this embroidery and sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the
"Important Safety Instructions", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.

Important Safety Instructions


Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
This machine is intended for household use.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock

1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
• When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

4 Always keep your work area clear:


• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

1
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.


• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:


• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand
stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:


• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:


• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

8 For repair or adjustment:


• If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Save these instructions.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com

2
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying
the mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should
contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND


This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if
used by a person with a disability.

3
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Contents

Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 1
Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1
Machine Features ................................................................................................................ 7
Accessories .......................................................................................................................... 8
Included accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 8
Optional accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 9
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................10
Front view....................................................................................................................................................... 10
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 11
Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Operation buttons ........................................................................................................................................... 12
Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 13

GETTING READY 15
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 16
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation.............................................................................18
Viewing the LCD ............................................................................................................................................. 18
Changing the machine settings ........................................................................................................................ 19
Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin........................................................................................... 22
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 22
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 22
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 27
Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 31
About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................ 31
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 32
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 39
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 39
Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ...................................................................... 39
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 40
Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 41
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................43
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 43
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 43
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder .............................................................................................. 45
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces.................................................................................................. 46
Free-arm sewing .............................................................................................................................................. 46

SEWING BASICS 47
Sewing............................................................................................................................... 48
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 48
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 49
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 50
Starting to sew................................................................................................................................................. 51
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 53
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 55

4
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Setting the Stitch ...............................................................................................................57


Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 57
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 59
Adjusting the thread tension ............................................................................................................................ 59
Useful Functions................................................................................................................ 61
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 61
Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 62
Mirroring stitches ............................................................................................................................................ 63
Saving stitch settings ....................................................................................................................................... 64
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 65
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 65
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 65
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 65
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 65
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ....................................................................................................................... 66
Sewing thin fabrics.......................................................................................................................................... 66
Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 67
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 67

UTILITY STITCHES 69
Stitch Setting Chart ...........................................................................................................70
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 70
Overcasting Stitches.......................................................................................................... 74
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" .................................................................................... 74
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ............................................................................................. 75
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 76
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................78
Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 78
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 78
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................80
Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................83
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 84
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 88
Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................90
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 90
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 92
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .............................................................................95
Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 95
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 96
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................97
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 98
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 99
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 99
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................ 100
Free-motion quilting ...................................................................................................................................... 102
Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 103
Triple stretch stitching ................................................................................................................................... 103
Bar tack stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 103
Darning ......................................................................................................................................................... 106
Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................ 108
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................ 109
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 110
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 111
Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 112
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 113
Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 114

5
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 114

EMBROIDERY 117
Embroidering Neatly ....................................................................................................... 118
What to prepare ............................................................................................................................................ 118
Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................ 119
Attaching the Embroidery Foot ....................................................................................... 120
Attaching the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 120
Removing the embroidery foot ..................................................................................................................... 122
Attaching the Embroidery Unit ........................................................................................ 123
Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 123
Attaching the embroidery unit ....................................................................................................................... 123
Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 125
Preparing the Fabric ........................................................................................................ 126
Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric ................................................................................................... 126
Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame ..................................................................................................... 127
Attaching the Embroidery Frame ..................................................................................... 130
Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 130
Removing the embroidery frame ................................................................................................................... 131
Selecting Embroidery Patterns ......................................................................................... 132
Copyright information ................................................................................................................................... 132
Embroidery pattern types ............................................................................................................................... 132
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ........................................................................................................... 133
Selecting alphabet characters ........................................................................................................................ 136
Selecting an embroidery pattern .................................................................................................................... 137
Selecting a frame pattern............................................................................................................................... 137
Using an embroidery card ............................................................................................................................. 138
Embroidering................................................................................................................... 139
Embroidering a pattern .................................................................................................................................. 139
Appliquéing ................................................................................................................................................. 141
Editing and Saving Patterns ............................................................................................. 143
Adjusting the layout and the size................................................................................................................... 143
Adjusting the thread tension .......................................................................................................................... 145
Connecting character patterns ....................................................................................................................... 146
Resewing ...................................................................................................................................................... 147
Thread runs out partway through a design..................................................................................................... 148
Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................ 148
Saving patterns.............................................................................................................................................. 150

APPENDIX 151
Care and Maintenance .................................................................................................... 152
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 152
Cleaning the race .......................................................................................................................................... 152
Troubleshooting .............................................................................................................. 154
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 159
Adjusting the LCD ......................................................................................................................................... 163
Operation beep............................................................................................................................................. 163
Index ............................................................................................................................... 165

6
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Machine Features

a Automatic thread cutting


The thread can be cut automatically after sewing (page 55, 62).
b Fast bobbin winding system
With the fast and simple bobbin winder, you can wind bobbins with one press of a button (page 22).
c Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in utility stitches available (page 70).
d Seven-point feed dogs
Ensure smooth, even feeding of multiple fabric layers and a variety of fabric weights (page 11).
e Quick-set bobbin
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 27).
f Bright light
The convenient LED lamp makes it easy to work on dark fabrics.
g Lighting Start/Stop button
When the green light is on, the machine is ready to sew. A red or orange light indicates an error or that the machine is
warming up (page 12).
h Easy-to-use needle threader
You can thread the needle easily by one press of a lever (page 32).
i Embroidery
You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, characters, framed decorations, and designs from optional embroidery
cards (page 117).

7
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.

Included accessories

Note
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 885-V31/V32/V33.The product
code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.
z The securing screw on the side of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: 132730-122)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.*1

11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.*2

28.*2 29. 30. 31.*2 32. 33.

*1 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
*2 Not included depending on the model.

8
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Part Code Part Code


No. Part Name No. Part Name
U.S.A. / Canada Others U.S.A. / Canada Others
1 Buttonhole foot "A" XC2691-023 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
2 Overcasting foot "G" XC3098-051 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
3 Monogramming foot "N" XD0810-031 20 Spool net XA5523-020
XD0501-021(EU area)
4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-021 21 Foot controller
XC8816-021(other areas)
5 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) XC3021-031 22 Scissors XC1807-121
6 Blind stitch foot "R" XC4051-031 23 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
7 Button fitting foot "M" XE2137-001 24 Embroidery foot "Q" XD0474-151
Embroidery set (medium)
8 Seam ripper X54243-051 25 H 10 cm X W 10 cm SA432 EF62:
XA6628-102
(H 4 inches X W 4 inches)
SFB: Embroidery bobbin thread
Bobbin (4) SA156 XA5539-151 26 (white) XC6283-001
9
Bobbin clip (3) XE3060-001 27 Accessory bag XC4487-021
10 Needle set XE58358-021 28 Soft cover XC4842-022
11 Twin needle X59296-121 29 Operation manual XE3116-201
12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 30 Quick reference guide XE3118-001
XE3365-101(SE-350, LB-6770)
13 Eyelet punch 135793-001 31 CD XE7728-001(others)
14 Screwdriver XC4237-021 32 Language setting sheet XE3124-001
15 Touch pen XE3069-001 33 Felt with stabilizer 182986-024
16 Spool cap (large) 130012-024
17 Spool cap (medium) (on XE1372-001
machine)

Memo
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.

■ Bobbin clip
Use the bobbin clip to prevent the end of the thread wound onto the bobbin from loosening.
The bobbin clips can be connected each other.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories.


Part Code
Part Name
U.S.A. / Canada Others
Embroidery bobbin SAEBT EBT-CEN
thread (white) X81164-001
Embroidery bobbin EBT-CEBN
thread (black) SAEBT999 XC5520-001

Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, visit [http://www.brother.com/],
or [http://www.brothermall.com] (in USA).
z Visit your nearest authorized dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your
machine.

9
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions


The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

a Thread guide cover (page 24, 33) h Presser foot lever (page 50)
Pass the thread under this thread guide cover when Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine. the presser foot .
b Thread guide (page 24, 33) i Operation buttons (page 12)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding Use these buttons to operate the machine.
the bobbin thread and threading the machine. j Flat bed attachment (page 46)
c Spool pin (page 23, 32) Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
d Bobbin winder (page 22) k Thread cutter (page 56)
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin. Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
e LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel) (page 18) l Needle threader lever (page 35)
Setting for the selected stitch or pattern and error Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.
messages appear in the LCD. m Thread tension dial (page 59, 145)
f Operation panel (page 13) Adjust the upper thread tension with this dial.
Use the keys on this panel to select stitches or n Thread take-up lever (page 34)
embroidery patterns, or check how to use the sewing
machine, etc. o Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disc
(page 24)
g Embroidery unit connector slot (page 123) Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the
Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit. pretension disc when winding the bobbin thread.

10
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Needle and presser foot Right-side/rear view


section

a Buttonhole lever (page 86) a Handle


Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
and bar tacks. transporting the machine.
b Thread guide disk (page 34) b Handwheel (page 50)
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to
using the needle threader to thread the needle. raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
c Needle bar thread guide (page 34) c Embroidery card slot (page 138)
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread Insert the embroidery card.
guide. d Air vent
d Needle plate (page 67) The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
straight seams. machine is being used.
e Needle plate cover (page 152) e Main power switch (page 17)
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
and race. on and off.
f Bobbin cover/bobbin case (page 28) f Foot controller jack (page 52)
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the bobbin case. into the foot controller jack.
g Feed dogs (page 88) g Power supply jack (page 17)
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
h Presser foot (page 43, 50)
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the h Drop feed lever (page 88)
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate Use the drop feed lever to lower the feed dogs.
presser foot for the selected stitching.
i Presser foot holder (page 45)
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder. Memo
z Refer to pages 10 through 13 while you are
learning to use your machine.

11
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

a Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of CAUTION
sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
● Do not press the thread cutter button
refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51). after the threads have already been cut,
The button changes color according to the machine’s otherwise the needle may break, the
operation mode. threads may become tangled or damage
Green: The machine is ready to sew or is to the machine may occur.
sewing.
Red: The machine can not sew.
Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin Note
thread, or the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right side. z Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
Memo the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
z When the foot controller is plugged in, the machine may occur.
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to z When cutting nylon thread or other special
start or stop sewing. threads, use the thread cutter on the side of
the machine. For details, refer to "Using the
b Needle position button thread cutter" (page 56).
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Be sure to raise the needle before threading the e Sewing speed controller
needle. Use this button to change the sewing direction Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
or for detailed sewing in small areas. Pressing the speed.
button twice sews one stitch.
c Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 53).

d Thread cutter button


Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 55).

12
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Operation panel
The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.

a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel) f Utility stitch key


Setting for the selected stitch or pattern and error Press this key to select a utility stitch.
messages appear in the LCD.
Touch the keys displayed on the LCD with your finger g Embroidery key
or the touch pen to perform operations.
Press this key to sew embroidery.
For details, refer to "LCD (Liquid Crystal Display)
Operation" (page 18). h Settings key

b Back key Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound,
and more.
Press to return to the previous screen.
i Sewing machine help key
c Previous page key
Displays the previous page when there are items that Press to get help on using the sewing machine. Displays
are not displayed on the LCD. simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin
winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement /
d Next page key embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame
attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot
Displays the next page when there are items that are not
replacement.
displayed on the LCD.

e Memory key
Press to enter alphabet character embroidery or
embroidery patterns you have edited or adjusted, etc.
into the sewing machine memory.

13
———————————————————————————————————————————————————

14
1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation..................................................................18

Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22

Upper Threading .....................................................................................................31

Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................39

Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................43

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces........................................................................................46


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Turning the Machine On/Off


This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions


Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms

CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.

16
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Turning on the machine Turning off the machine


Prepare the included power cord. When you have finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing

a off (the main power switch is set to "


Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
"), and
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off. 1
a
then plug the power supply cord into the Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
power supply jack on the right side of the
b the right side of the machine to turn the
machine. Press the left side of the main power switch on

machine off (set it to " ").


b house hold electrical outlet.
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a

X The light, LCD and (Start/stop button) go


off when the machine is turned off.

c electrical outlet.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
1
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
a Power supply jack

d jack.
Unplug the power cord from the power supply

c on the right side of the machine to turn the


Press the right side of the main power switch

machine on (set it to "|"). Note


z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
X The light, LCD and (Start/stop button) (For U.S.A. only)
light up when the machine is turned on. z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
Memo to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
z When the machine is turned on, the needle the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
and the feed dogs will make sound when reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
they move; this is not a malfunction. a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 17


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation


Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front
of the sewing machine. Change the screen on the LCD using the keys on the right side of the LCD, and
make operations by directly touching the icons with your finger or a touch pen. For details, refer to
"Operation panel" (page 13).

Viewing the LCD


When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on. When you touch the LCD screen according to the message
displayed on the screen with your finger or a touch pen, the following utility stitch selection screen is displayed.

l
1 k
2 0
9
3
8
4 7
5 6

a Selected stitch i Horizontal mirror image


b Presser foot to be used j Automatic thread cutting
c Stitches k Automatic reverse/reinforcement
d Stitch settings and twin needle sewing l Single/twin needle sewing and needle stop
e Stitch width position
f Stitch length
g Number of the selected stitch
h Number of stitches contained

Memo
z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached. The details are explained in
"Selecting an embroidery pattern" (page 137).
z Refer to "Error messages" (page 159) for messages displayed on the LCD.

18
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Changing the machine settings


Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on operation, refer to the next
page. 1
Attribute Icon Details Settings

Specifies where the needle is positioned when Down Up


Needle position the sewing machine is stopped.

Stitch width Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the


control sewing speed controller (page 58).

Thread color/Time to
Changes the thread color display on the embroider/Needle count/
embroidery screen (page 133). Thread number (#123)
Thread color
display Embroidery/Country/Madeira
(When "Thread No.#123" is selected) poly/Madeira rayon/Sulky/
Robison Anton

Selects the measurement units that are


Display unit mm/INCH
displayed (only for embroidering) (page 134).

Buzzer Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with


each operation (page 163).

Selects whether "1 Straight stitch (left)" or


Initial needle
position "3 Straight stitch (middle)" that is
automatically selected when the machine is
turned on.

English/German/French/
Italian/Dutch/Spanish/
Allows the language used in the screens to be
Language Japanese/Danish/Norwegian/
changed. Finnish/Swedish/Portuguese/
Russian/Korean/Thai/others

LCD brightness Adjust the brightness of the LCD (page 163). Lighter Darker

The "NO." is the number for the embroidery and


Product number NO.: -
sewing machine.

Program version Version: Display the program version. -

Memo
z The item shown in reverse highlighting are the settings at the time of purchase.

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 19


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

a
Turn on the sewing machine.
The highlighted display is the initial setting.

X The LCD comes on.


Example: Changing the needle stop position
b panel.
Press (Settings key) on the display

d (Back key).
When settings are complete, press
X The setting screen appears.

c
Press the item to be set.
Switch the screen using (Previous page
key) and (Next page key).

• The following screens show their default


settings. X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Memo
z "NO" is the individual number for the
sewing machine.
z "VERSION" is the program version which is
installed in the sewing machine.
z Settings that are changed are saved even if
the power is turned off.

20
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d next page.
Press (Next page key) to switch to the
Checking machine operating
procedures If you press (Previous page key), you
return to the previous page.
Simple explanations can be referred on the LCD
display for the following items.
Press (Back key) to return to the item
selection screen.
1
Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread /
bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle Example: Upper threading
replacement / embroidery unit attachment /
embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot
attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.

a
Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

b the display panel.


Press (Sewing machine help key) on

X The sewing machine help screen appears.

c
Press the item to be displayed.
e key) two times.
After you finish viewing, press (Back
a b c d

h g f e
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
a Upper threading
b Bobbin winding
c Bobbin installation Memo
d Needle replacement z For details on each topic, refer to the
e Presser foot replacement corresponding page in this Operation
f Embroidery foot attachment Manual.
g Embroidery frame attachment
h Embroidery unit attachment

X The first screen describing the procedure for


the selected topic appears.

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 21


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Winding/Installing the Bobbin


This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION
● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).

Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)

This model Other model

Winding the bobbin


Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

b
a

a Bobbin-winding thread guide


b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin

22
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

a e the spool pin.


Turn on the sewing machine. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is


horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
1
b that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so

in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.

a
Memo
z For embroidering, use the embroidery
bobbin thread.
b
Note
z If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
a Notch become tangled around the spool pin.
b Bobbin winder shaft spring

f return the spool pin to its original position.


Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin and
c arrow until it snaps into place.
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right
as shown, with the rounded side on the left.

X (Start/stop button) lights up in orange.


CAUTION
d cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
Pick up the spool pin and remove the spool
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
a b
become tangled around the spool pin or
the machine may be damaged.
● Three spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If the
spool cap is too small for the spool being
used, the thread may catch on the slit in
a Spool cap
b Spool pin the spool or the machine may be
damaged.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

h and to the front.


Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
Note
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, While holding the thread near the spool with
use the small spool cap, and leave a small your right hand, pull the thread with your left
space between the cap and the spool. hand as shown below.

c b

a Spool cap (small)


b Spool (cross-wound thread) a
c Space
a Thread guide cover
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
i hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the then wind the thread counterclockwise under
spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it the pretension disc, pulling it in as far as
to fit the size of the spool. possible.
When the spool net is used, the upper thread
tension may become tighter. Before sewing,
refer to "Adjusting the thread tension" (page
59).

a b

a
c
a Bobbin-winding thread guide

d Make sure that the thread passes under the


a Spool net pretension disk.
b Spool
c Spool cap b
d Spool pin

g thread under the hook of thread guide.


Pull the thread from the spool and pass the
c d

b Hook
c Pretension disk
d Pull it in as far as possible.

a Thread guide

24
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

j the bobbin five or six times. l


Wind the end of the thread clockwise around Slide the sewing speed controller to the right.

While using your left hand to hold the thread


that was passed through the bobbin-winding
thread guide, use your right hand to wind the
end of the thread. 1
Wind five or six times. a

a Speed controller

m When the foot controller is plugged in, press


Press (Start/stop button) once.

down on the foot controller.

CAUTION
● Be sure to pull the thread tightly and
wind it clockwise. If the thread is
wound counterclockwise, the thread
may wind around the bobbin winder
shaft.
a

k slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull


Pass the end of the thread through the guide a Start/stop button
X The bobbin start winding and "Winding
the thread to the right to cut it. bobbin thread..." is displayed on the LCD
screen.

Note
z Do not get away from the machine while
winding the bobbin. Make sure that the
bobbin thread is being winded correctly. If
the bobbin thread is winded incorrectly,
a
press (Start/stop button) or operate the
a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat foot controller immediately to stop the
(with built-in cutter)
bobbin winding.

CAUTION
n slow, press
When the bobbin winding stops or becomes
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If (Start/stop button) once to
the bobbin is wound without cutting the stop the machine.
thread using the cutter built into the slit When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may your foot from the foot controller.
become tangled in the bobbin or the X The bobbin winding will stop.
needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
CAUTION
● When the bobbin winding stops or
Memo becomes slow, stop the machine.
z Make sure that the thread is correctly set Otherwise, the sewing machine may be
before starting the bobbin winding.
damaged.
Otherwise the thread may become tangled
and fail to wind the thread.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ When the thread became tangled under the


o winder shaft to the left, and then remove the
Cut the thread with scissors, slide the bobbin
bobbin winder seat.
bobbin from the shaft. If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not
passed under the pretension disk of the bobbin-
winding thread guide correctly, the thread may
become tangled under the bobbin winder seat.
In such a case, wind off the thread according to the
following procedure.

b
a
a Thread
b Bobbin winder seat

CAUTION
● Do not remove the bobbin winder seat
Memo even if the thread become tangled under
z If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right the bobbin winder seat. It may result in
side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is injuries.
impossible.) ● Do not remove the screw of the bobbin
winder presser, otherwise the machine
may be damaged; you cannot wind off the
p original position.
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
thread by removing the screw.

a
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.

a Screw of the bobbin winder presser

If the thread become tangled under the bobbin


a winder seat, press (Start/stop button) once
to stop the bobbin winding.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
your foot from the foot controller.

a
a Start/stop button

26
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Cut the thread with scissors beside the bobbin-


b winding thread guide.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
a
CAUTION 1
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.

a Bobbin-winding thread guide

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and


c then remove the bobbin from the shaft.

● The included bobbin was designed


specifically for this sewing machine. If
bobbins from other models are used, the
machine will not operate correctly. Use
only the included bobbin or bobbins of
the same type (part code: SA156, SFB
(XA5539-151)).
Hold the thread end with your left hand, and
d wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin
Actual size

with your right hand as shown below. 11.5 mm


(7/16 inch)

This model Other model

Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks that surround the bobbin case.

Wind the bobbin again.


e

Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk of the bobbin-winding
thread guide correctly (page 24).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

a twice to raise the needle, and then raise the f your right hand.
Press (Needle position button) once or Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case with

presser foot lever.


a

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.


a Needle position button
b Presser foot lever CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the bobbin and depress it
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
to the bottom with your finger.
Otherwise, the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.
● Be sure to thread the machine as
indicated. Otherwise, the thread may
break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.

c
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

g hand, and then guide the thread as shown with


Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
a b
your left hand.

a Bobbin cover
b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.

d
Remove the bobbin cover.
h then pull the thread out toward the front.
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and

e the end of the thread with your left hand.


Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

a Cutter
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
X The cutter cuts the thread.

28
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ When pulling up the bobbin thread may be


Note necessary
z If the thread is not correctly inserted through When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 59).
a
Thread the upper thread. 1
• Refer to "Upper Threading" (page 31).

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.


b
• Refer to steps c through f of "Installing the
bobbin" (page 28).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.


c

a Tension-adjusting spring

Note
i Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
Reattach the bobbin cover. z Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
z Make the bobbin cover removed.
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
While lightly holding the upper thread with
a b d your left hand, press (Needle position
2
button) once or twice to raise the needle.

1
a Tab
b Lower-left corner
X The bobbin threading is finished. You can
begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin
thread.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in "Upper Threading" (page 31).
a Needle position button
Memo
z When making gathers or before free-motion X The bobbin thread is looped around the
quilting, pull up the bobbin thread by upper thread and can be pulled up.
following the procedure in "When pulling up
the bobbin thread may be necessary".

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 29


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull


e out the end of the bobbin thread.

Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the


f bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
the rear of the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.


g Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
a b 2

1
a Tab
b Lower-left corner

30
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Upper Threading
This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle.

1
a

a Mark on handwheel

About the spool of thread


CAUTION
Information about the spools of thread is described
● When threading the upper thread, below.
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled or the needle may CAUTION
bend or break.
● The needle threader can be used with a ● If the spool or the spool cap is not
75/11 through 100/16 home sewing positioned correctly, the thread may
machine needle. When using special become tangled around the spool pin or
thread such as transparent nylon thread the needle may break.
or metallic thread, the needle threader ● Three spool cap sizes are available,
cannot be used. allowing you to choose a spool cap that
● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or best fits the size of spool being used. If the
thicker cannot be used with the needle spool cap is too small for the spool being
threader. used, the thread may catch on the slit in
● The needle threader cannot be used with the spool or the needle may break.
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to "Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)" (page
36).
● Never use the thread of No. 20 or lower.
● Use the needle and the thread in the
correct combination. For details on the
correct combination of needles and
threads, refer to "Selecting the needle
depending on the thread and fabric types"
(page 39).

Upper Threading 31
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

c twice to raise the needle.


Press (Needle position button) once or
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then a
thread the machine.

CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled or the needle may a Needle position button
bend or break.

Note
a
Turn on the machine.
z The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top, as shown
below. Check the handwheel and, if this
mark is not at this position, press
(Needle position button) until it is.

b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a

a
a Mark on handwheel
a Presser foot lever

d cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.


Pick up the spool pin and remove the spool
X The presser foot is raised.

Memo b a
z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.

a Spool pin
b Spool cap

e Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is


Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.

horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front


at the bottom.

32
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f return the spool pin to its original position. h and to the front.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin and Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right While holding the thread near the spool with
as shown, with the rounded side on the left. your right hand, pull the thread with your left
hand as shown below.
1

CAUTION
a
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.

g thread under the hook of the thread guide.


Pull the thread from the spool and pass the
b d

a Thread guide cover


b Thread guide spring
c Thread
d When the presser foot lever is lowered

a
Note
z When passing the thread behind the thread
guide cover, be sure to use both hands. If
a Thread guide you do not hold the thread with your right
hand, the thread will be loose and you
cannot hang the thread on the thread guide
spring correctly. It may cause incorrect
thread tension.
z Make sure that the presser foot lever is raised
before passing the thread behind the thread
guide cover. If the presser foot lever is
lowered, the thread guide spring is shut and
you cannot hang the thread on the thread
guide spring correctly.

i shown below.
Pass the thread through the guides in the order

4 2

Upper Threading 33
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

j thread take-up lever as shown below. m passed through the needle bar thread guide, to
Make sure that the thread is passed into the Pull the end of the thread, which has been

a
the left, then pass the thread through the notch
of the thread guide (1), and then firmly pull
the thread from the front and insert it into the
slit of the thread guide disk marked "7" all the
way (2).
Make sure that the thread passes the notch of
the thread guide.

a Thread take-up lever

Memo
z If the needle is not raised, you cannot pass
the thread into the thread take-up lever. Be
sure to press the needle position button to
raise the needle before passing the thread
into the thread take-up lever.

k guide.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread

The thread can easily be passed behind the


needle bar thread guide by holding the thread b
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand, as shown. a
a Notch of the thread guide
b Thread guide disc

n of the machine.
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side

a Thread cutter

a Needle bar thread guide

l presser foot.
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the

a
a Presser foot lever

34
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

o side of the machine as much as possible to p


Lower the needle threader lever on the left Raise the needle threader lever slowly.
Ta
make the hook turn.
a

a Needle threader lever


a Needle threader lever

q the loop of the thread through the eye of the


Raise the presser foot lever, and carefully pull

Ta needle to pull out the end of the thread.

Tb

a Needle
b Hook

Note CAUTION
z If the needle threader lever is not lowered as
● Do not touch a button. If a button is
much as possible, the hook will not turn
accidentally pressed, the machine starts
fully as shown below and the thread will not
pass through the eye of the needle. sewing, and your finger may be pricked
In such a case, start from m again. with the needle or the needle may break.
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

r foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches)


Pass the end of the thread through the presser

of thread toward the rear of the machine.

z If the needle is not raised, the needle


threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press (Needle position button) to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
For details, refer to step c of "Threading the a
upper thread" (page 32).
z
a 5cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.

Upper Threading 35
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Threading the needle manually (without using


the needle threader) Using the twin needle
When using special thread, such as transparent nylon
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
thread or metallic thread and the wing needle or the
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
twin needle which cannot be used with the needle
upper threads should have the same thickness and
threader, thread the needle as described below.
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra
spool pin.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
a guide according to steps a through k on
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
"Threading the upper thread" (page 32).

Lower the presser foot lever.


b
a
b

a Twin needle
b Extra spool pin

CAUTION
a ● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-121). Use of any other needle
a Presser foot lever
may bend the needle or damage the
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle machine.
c from front to back. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

a
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
"Replacing the needle" (page 41).

b eye.
Thread the upper thread for the left needle

CAUTION For details, refer to steps a through k of


"Threading the upper thread" (page 32).
● Do not touch a button. If a button is
c thread.
accidentally pressed, the machine starts Manually thread the left needle with the upper
sewing, and your finger may be pricked
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
with the needle or the needle may break. from the front.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the


d thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm of thread toward the rear of
the machine.

CAUTION
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the twin needle. If the needle threader is
used with the twin needle, the sewing
machine may be damaged.

36
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d bobbin winder shaft, and install the thread f bar thread guide, manually thread the right
Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the Without passing the thread through the needle

spool on it. Then, thread the upper thread. needle.


Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
1

CAUTION
a Bobbin winder shaft ● The needle threader cannot be used with
b Extra spool pin
c Thread spool the twin needle. If the needle threader is
used with the twin needle, the sewing
machine may be damaged.
Memo
z When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
g For details on changing the presser foot, refer to
Attach zigzag foot "J".
spool.
"Replacing the Presser Foot" (page 43).

e the same way that the upper thread for the left
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
CAUTION
side was threaded.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot "J". If bunched stitches
occur, use presser foot "N" or attach
stabilizer material.

h stitch.
Turn on the sewing machine and select a

• For stitch selection see "Selecting stitching"


(page 49).

• For details, refer to steps g through j of • See "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70) for
"Threading the upper thread" (page 33). stitches that use a twin needle.

CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.

Upper Threading 37
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

i l
Press . Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
"Starting to sew" (page 51).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.

X The screen for setting the twin needle


appears.

j
Press .

Note
z When changing the sewing direction, press
(Needle position button) to raise the
X displays in reverse highlight. needle from the fabric, and then raise the
The twin needle can now be used. presser foot lever and turn the fabric.

Memo
z If is pressed again, it returns to . CAUTION
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
k
Press (Back key).
otherwise the needle may break or the
X The initial screen appears again, and machine may be damaged.
appears.

CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.

38
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Replacing the Needle


This section describes how to replace the needle.

Needle precautions 1
CAUTION
z Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
z Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types


The sewing machine needle should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following
table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Thread
Fabric Type/Application Size of Needle
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Medium weight 60–90
Taffeta Synthetic thread 75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
Thin fabrics Georgette Synthetic thread 65/9–75/11
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
30 100/16
Denim Cotton thread
50
Thick fabrics
Corduroy Synthetic thread 90/14–100/16
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey Ball point needle
Stretch fabrics Thread for knits 50–60 (gold colored)
Tricot 75/11–90/14
Cotton thread
50–90
Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread 65/9–90/14
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
For top-stitching 50 90/14–100/16
Silk thread

Note
z Never use the thread of No. 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

Replacing the Needle 39


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Memo Checking the needle


z The lower the thread number is, the thicker
the thread, and the higher the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
number, the thicker the needle. since the needle may break while the machine is
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the being operated.
sewing machine is purchased. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
■ Ball point needle (gold colored)
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles
with stretch fabrics.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the a
fabric or thread.
b
■ Embroidery needles
Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When
embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use a
90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.

a Flat side
CAUTION b Needle type marking

z The appropriate fabric, thread and needle


combinations are shown in the table CAUTION
(page 39). If the combination of the
z If the distance between the needle and
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
the flat surface is not even, the needle is
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
bent. Do not use a bent needle.
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.

a Flat surface

40
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d
Lower the presser foot lever.
Replacing the needle
Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been
determined to be straight according to the
instructions in "Checking the needle" (page 40). 1
a twice to raise the needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or

a a
a Presser foot lever

e use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp


Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

screw toward you (counterclockwise) to


remove the needle.

a
a Needle position button

b
Turn off the sewing machine.

a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
CAUTION otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
z Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine. Otherwise,
injuries may occur if a button is
accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.

c and cover the holes on the needle plate.


Place fabric or paper under the presser foot
f of the machine, insert the needle until it
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear

touches the needle stopper.


Note a
z Before replacing the needle, place fabric or
paper under the presser foot to prevent the
needle from falling into the holes in the
needle plate.

a Needle stopper

Replacing the Needle 41


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

g use the screwdriver to tighten the needle


While holding the needle with your left hand,

clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION
z Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may
break or damage may result.

42
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Replacing the Presser Foot


This section describes how to replace the presser foot.

Presser foot precautions 1


Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser foot.

CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot


CAUTION
Replace the presser foot as described below.
z Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
Memo to turn off the sewing machine.
z For details on attaching the embroidery foot Otherwise, injuries may occur if a button
"Q", refer to "Attaching the Embroidery Foot" is accidentally pressed and the machine
(page 120). starts sewing.
z Zigzag foot "J" is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.

a twice to raise the needle.


Press (Needle position button) once or

a Presser foot lever


X The presser foot is raised.

d presser foot holder.


Press the black button at the back of the

a Needle position button


a

b
Turn off the sewing machine.

a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.

Replacing the Presser Foot 43


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the


Place a different presser foot below the holder
Note
notch in the holder. z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating presser foot that should be used appears in
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is the screen. Check that the correct presser
positioned to be read. foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
a
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

b
c

a Presser foot holder


b Notch
c Pin
Buttonhole foot "A"

f presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the


Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
Overcasting foot "G"
presser foot holder.
Zigzag foot "J"

Button fitting foot "M"

Monogramming foot "N"


a
Blind stitch foot "R"

b Side cutter "S" (option)

z For details on the presser foot that should be


used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch
Setting Chart" (page 70).
c
d

a Presser foot lever


b Presser foot holder
c Notch
d Pin
X The presser foot is attached.

g presser foot is securely attached.


Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

44
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Attaching the presser foot holder


Removing and attaching the
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
presser foot holder
X The presser foot is raised.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
b left side of the presser bar.
1
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
embroidery foot, optional free-motion open toe
quilting foot "O" and optional walking foot. Use the
screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

a
CAUTION
z Before attaching/removing the presser
foot, be sure to turn off the sewing
machine. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
a button is accidentally pressed and the
b
machine starts sewing.

a
Remove the presser foot. a Presser bar
b Presser foot holder
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 43). Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
c right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the screwdriver in your left hand.
b holder screw.
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

a
b
a d a Screwdriver
b b Presser foot holder

a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
CAUTION
c Presser foot holder screw
d Presser bar z Do not hit the needle with your finger or
the presser foot when attaching/removing
X The presser foot is removed from the presser it. The needle may break or cause injury.
bar.
z Be sure to tighten the screw with the
included screwdriver. If the screw is
loose, the needle may hit the presser foot
and break or bend.

Replacing the Presser Foot 45


GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces

Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.

Free-arm sewing
Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm
sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces
such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.

a
Remove the flat bed attachment.

a
a Flat bed attachment
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.

b arm, and then sew from the top.


Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

a Arm

c install the flat bed attachment back in its


When you have finished free-arm sewing,

original position.

46
2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................48
Setting the Stitch .....................................................................................................57

Useful Functions......................................................................................................61

Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................65


SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION
z While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
z Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
z Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
z Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.

General sewing procedure


Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you
wish to sew. Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the
1 Attach the presser foot. presser foot.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 43).

Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
2 Turn on the machine. refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 17).

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
3 Select the stitch. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
4 Position the fabric. the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 50).

Start sewing.
5 Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. Automatic thread cutting is also
6 Cut the thread. possible. For details on cutting the thread, refer to "Cutting the thread"
(page 55).

48
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d
Select a stitch.
Selecting stitching (Previous page key) displays the previous
page, and (Next page key) displays the
Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are
next page.
67 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on,
the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.

a matching presser foot ready.


Determine the stitch to be used, and get the

• Refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).

2
b The machine comes with zigzag foot "J"
Attach the presser foot.
Memo
attached. z When touching the screen with your finger
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser is difficult, use the included touch pen.
foot" (page 43).
Example: 11 is selected:

CAUTION
z Use the presser foot appropriate for the
stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used,
the needle may hit the presser foot and
bend or break.
X The number of selected stitch, the stitch

c
Turn on the sewing machine. width and the stitch length are displayed.

e reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the


If necessary, specify the settings, for automatic

stitch length, etc.


• For details on sewing with each of the utility
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is stitches, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page
shown selected on the screen. 70).

Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears on
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Memo
z For details on setting the automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching etc., refer to "Useful
Functions" (page 61).
z For details on adjusting the stitch width,
stitch length and thread tension, refer to
"Setting the Stitch" (page 57).

Sewing 49
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel


While holding the end of the thread and the
Positioning the fabric
toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct hand to lower the needle to the starting point
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric of the stitching.
are aligned correctly.

a
Turn on the machine.

b twice to raise the needle.


Press (Needle position button) once or

a Needle position button

c
Place the fabric under the presser foot.

e
Lower the presser foot lever.

Memo
z If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

a
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

50
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. Sewing can be started and stopped
using the operation button (Start/stop button) or
the foot controller. For details on the foot controller,
refer to next page.
Memo
z The machine will sew at a slow speed at the
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
beginning of sewing.
z If you press and hold the (Start/stop
2
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to start or button) while sewing, the machine will sew
stop sewing. at a slow speed. If you use this function at
the point just before the position where you
■ Using the operation button want to stop the machine, you can stop the
Sewing can be started and stopped using the machine exactly.
operation button (Start/stop button).

When the end of the stitching is reached, press


c
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a right to select the desired sewing speed. (Start/stop button) once.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to X The machine stops sewing with the needle
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed lowered (in the fabric).
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
Cut the threads.
d
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
55).

Note
z This machine will automatically stop when
the bobbin becomes almost empty. When
a the machine stops, replace the bobbin
thread, and then press (Start/stop button)
a Sewing speed controller
to begin sewing again.
Press (Start/stop button) once.
b

a
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.

Sewing 51
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Using the foot controller Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
d right to select the desired sewing speed.
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

Turn off the sewing machine.


a

a Sewing speed controller


X The speed set using the sewing speed
Note
controller is the foot controller's maximum
z When connecting the foot controller, be sure
sewing speed.
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
started. e press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
b the right side of the sewing machine. foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

Slower

Faster

• Slowly press down on the foot controller.


Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
a Foot controller jack
When the end of the stitching is reached,
f completely release the foot controller.
Turn on the machine.
c X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).

Cut the threads.


g
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
55).

52
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Memo Securing the stitching


z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to start or When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
stop sewing. the end of an opening or where seams do not
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be stitching to secure the end of the thread.
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
a beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the
machine settings" (page 19). presser foot lever. 2
CAUTION
z Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
z Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
z If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
b the foot controller.
Press (Start/stop button), or press down on
occur.
At this time, if (Start/stop button) is held
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
51).

a
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.

Sewing 53
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

c (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). f


After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
held down until you reach the beginning of the held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
stitching. sewn.
• The machine sews at a slow speed when X While (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is button) is held down, reverse stitches are
held down. sewn.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button


X While (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
g release
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
button) is held down, reverse stitches are (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
sewn. button).
X The machine stops sewing.
d stitching, release
After sewing back to the beginning of the
(Reverse/reinforcement
h the foot controller.
stitch button). Press (Start/stop button), or press down on

X The machine stops sewing. At this time, if (Start/stop button) is held


down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
e the foot controller.
Press (Start/stop button), or press down on
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
i sewing machine stops.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

Release (Start/stop button) or foot


controller.

3 Press 1 Press
2 Press

5 Press
4 Press
b 6 Press

a Beginning of stitching
b End of stitching

54
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Sewing stitches
When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is Cutting the thread
pressed with stitches other than 1 , 3 and
When you have finished sewing, cut the thread.
7 stitches, reinforcement stitches are used.
Reinforcement stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on ■ Using the thread cutter button
top of each other in one place. When you wish to finish the stitching, press
a (Thread cutter button) once.

2
a b
a Reverse stitching a
b Reinforcement stitching
a Thread cutter button

Memo X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.


z The sewing machine can be set to
automatically sew reverse or reinforcement Note
stitches at the beginning and end of the z The thread cutter button cannot be used
stitching. For details, refer to "Automatically when the presser foot lever is raised.
sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page
61).
Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the
b fabric.

a Presser foot lever

CAUTION
z Do not press (Thread cutter button)
after threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
z Do not press (Thread cutter button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot
or while the machine is sewing, otherwise
damage to the machine may occur.

Memo
z The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut automatically when sewing is
finished. For details, refer to "Automatically
cutting the thread" (page 62).

Sewing 55
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Using the thread cutter


When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or
other special threads, use the thread cutter on the
side of the machine to cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the


a sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle
position button) once to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

Raise the presser foot lever.


b

a Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,


c and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

56
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Setting the Stitch


This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. However,
you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then follow the procedure described in this
section.

Note
z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed. For details, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
z Stitch settings return to their defaults if they are changed, when the machine is turned off or a different
stitch is selected before the stitch setting is saved. If you want to save settings, refer to "Saving stitch
settings" (page 64).

Adjusting the stitch width Memo


z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to z If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple
make the stitch wider or narrower. stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch
width changes the needle position. Increasing
the width moves the needle to the right;
reducing the width moves the needle to the
left. For details, refer to "Changing the needle
position" (page 79).
z Press to return the setting to its default.
z If the foot controller is connected, the
sewing speed controller can be used to
adjust the zigzag width. For details, refer to
Each press of makes the zigzag stitch narrower.
"Adjusting stitch width using the sewing
speed controller" (page 58).

CAUTION
z After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
Each press of makes the zigzag stitch wider. needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.

Setting the Stitch 57


SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Adjusting stitch width using the sewing speed Press (Back key).
controller e

A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the


stitch width. If the sewing machine is set so that the
stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed
controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be
adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted
with the foot controller.
Connect the foot controller. X The initial screen appears again.
a
• For details, refer to "Using the foot controller" Select a stitch.
(page 52). f

Attach zigzag foot "J".


b

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). 49).
Turn on the sewing machine, and then press
c While sewing, slide the sewing speed
(Settings key) on the operation panel. g controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width
narrower. Slide the controller to the right to
make the width wider.

Narrower Wider
X The setting screen appears.
Press "ON" for stitch width control setting.
d

X The machine is now set so that the stitch


width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller.
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot
Memo controller.
z If the stitch width control setting is set to
When you have finished sewing, set the stitch
"ON", for stitch width will change to h width control setting back to "OFF".
sewing speed controller icon .
Memo
z Although the stitching result differs
depending on the type of fabric being sewn
and the thickness of the thread being used,
for best results, adjust the stitch length to
between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32
inch).

58
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Adjusting the stitch length Adjusting the thread tension


The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch You may need to change the thread tension,
coarser or finer. depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
2
a
Each press of makes the stitch finer (shorter).

c
d
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread

Each press of makes the stitch coarser (longer). ■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

Note
z If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to "Installing the bobbin"
(page 27) and rethread the bobbin thread.

a
Memo
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
z Press to return the setting to its b
default.

c e
CAUTION d
z If the stitches are bunched together, a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
increase the stitch length. Continuing to c Upper thread
sew with the stitches bunched together d Bobbin thread
may result in the needle bending or e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
breaking.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.

Setting the Stitch 59


SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Memo Memo
z When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
cover and then make sure that the thread is or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
shown as below. If the thread is not shown may not be possible to set the correct thread
as below, the thread is not inserted through tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. insert the bobbin correctly.
For details, refer to page 29. z The level "4" on the tension dial is a guide
for working normal fabrics (medium weight).
However, the actual stitch tension you’ll
want to use will vary according to the fabric
and thread you are using, so you should
always sew a stitch sample and adjust stitch
tension before beginning on the actual piece
to be worked.
z The machine may stop sewing if tension is
set extremely low. This is not a sign that
there is anything wrong with your machine.
Simply adjust to the correct stitch tension
and begin again.

■ Upper thread is too loose


If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

Note
z If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this
case, refer to "Threading the upper thread"
(page 32) and rethread the upper thread.

c
d
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten


the upper thread.

60
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

d then press
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
Automatically sewing reverse/ (Start/stop button) once.
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching. Depending on the selected stitch,
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are
2
automatically set. For details on reverse/
reinforcement stitching, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart"
(page 70).
a
a
Turn on the machine.
a Start/stop button
X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or
reinforcement stitching.

e
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
X The LCD comes on. (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once.
If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar
b
Select a stitch.
tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to has been selected, this operation is
"Selecting stitching" (page 49). unnecessary.

c
Press on the LCD.

X It turns to , and the sewing machine is a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button


set for automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.

Memo
z To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press .
z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
z When the stitch such as those for sewing
buttonholes and bar tacks is selected,
reinforcement stitches are automatically
sewn.

Useful Functions 61
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

b
Press the stitch selection.
Memo
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
z Press (Start/stop button) when you want
"Selecting stitching" (page 49).
to stop the sewing machine in the middle of
sewing without reverse stitching or
c
Press on the screen.
reinforcement stitching (for example, when
you want to change the sewing direction).
The sewing machine stops without reverse
stitching or reinforcement stitching.
Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) at the end of the stitching.

1 X You get , and the sewing machine is


set for programmed thread-cutting and
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
2a

4 3b

a Stop the machine and change the sewing


direction.
b Start the machine again.

Memo
z To turn programmed thread cutting off,
press .
Automatically cutting
the thread
d then press
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
(Start/stop button) once.
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
"programmed thread-cutting".
If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.

a
Turn on the machine.

a
a Start/stop button
X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or
X The LCD comes on. reinforcement stitching.

62
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

e
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) Mirroring stitches
once.
If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally
tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching (left and right).
has been selected, this operation is

a
unnecessary. Turn on the machine.

X After the reverse stitching or reinforcement


stitching has been done, the sewing machine
stops, and the thread is cut.
2
X The LCD comes on.

b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 49).

c
Press on the screen.
The thread is cut here.

Memo
z Press (Start/stop button) when you want
to stop the sewing machine in the middle of
sewing without programmed thread-cutting X It turns to , and the pattern displayed at
(for example, when you want to change the the top of the screen is mirrored.
sewing direction). The sewing machine stops
without programmed thread cutting.
Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) at the end of the stitching.

2 a Memo
z To cancel the mirroring setting, press .
z Mirroring is not possible for buttonholes and
4c 3b other stitches where shows.
a Stop the machine and change the sewing
z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
direction. mirroring setting is cancelled.
b Start the machine again.
c The thread is cut here.
z If the power is turned off, programmed
thread-cutting will be turned off.

Useful Functions 63
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Saving stitch settings Note


z All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag
This machine is preset with the default settings for the width), stitch length, programmed thread-
stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, cutting, and automatic reverse/
programmed thread-cutting, and automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching, etc.) are saved, not
reinforcement stitching for each stitch. However, if just the setting that was changed. When the
you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that same stitch pattern is selected, the last
they can be used later, press after changing the settings saved are displayed even if the
settings to save the new settings with the selected machine was turned off. If the settings are
changed again and is pressed, or if
stitch. This feature can be used only with utility
is pressed to reset the setting to its
stitches. The settings you saved will not be cleared if
default, the new settings are not saved unless
the machine is turned off. is pressed another time.
■ To use a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the straight Even if is pressed, the settings for
stitch programmed thread-cutting and automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching are saved in
Select a straight stitch.
a
the machine.

Press .
b

Memo
z The default stitch length is 2.5 mm.

Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.


c

Press .
d
• To reset the selected stitch patterns to its
default settings, press , and then
press .

X The confirmation message is displayed.


Press .
e

X The next time that the same straight stitch is


selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.

64
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Useful Sewing Tips


Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.

Trial sewing Sewing curves


After you have set up the machine with the thread Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewn, the machine automatically sets the stitch sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to 2
length and width for the stitch that is selected. "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 67).
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
that will be used with your project. stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing direction

a sewing machine.
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the


needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (Needle position button) to
lower the needle.

b fabric.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
Sewing thick fabrics
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
Raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring
the presser foot to its highest position.

c sewing.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue

Useful Sewing Tips 65


SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does


not feed at the beginning of stitching Sewing hook-and-loop
Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that fastener
keeps the presser foot level.

CAUTION
z Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
a fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
race, it may cause malfunction.
z If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with
a Sewing direction the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle
may bend or break.
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
Press the black button (presser foot holding
b pin) on the left side of zigzag foot "J". Keep the Note
button held in and lower the presser foot. z Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-


and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
a lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-
and-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-
loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
a Presser foot holding pin
thick fabrics (page 39).
X Release the button. The foot will lock in
place level with the seam, allowing the
fabric to feed. a

a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener

Sewing thin fabrics


X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position. When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly.
If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
CAUTION under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
z If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) paper.
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.

a Stabilizer material or paper

66
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking


Sewing stretch fabrics The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
without stretching the fabric. while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a
marking in the needle plate. The distance between
the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm)
and the distance between the markings in the grid
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

a 5

1
2
4
a Basting

Using the stretch stitches or the thread for knits gives 2 3


an attractive finishes.
4 5 9 10 34
6

Sewing an even seam


allowance a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam d Inches
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the e Needle plate
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge f 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot aligned with a fixed distance from the edge of
the fabric.

a Seam
b Presser foot

Memo
z If the straight stitch (left needle position,
triple stretch stitch, basting stitch etc.) is
selected, you can change the distance
between the seam and the right edge of the
presser foot by changing the stitch width. For
details, refer to "Changing the needle
position" (page 79).

Useful Sewing Tips 67


SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

68
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Stitch Setting Chart .................................................................................................70

Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................74

Basic Stitching .........................................................................................................78

Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................80

Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................83

Zipper Insertion.......................................................................................................90

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ..................................................................95

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................97

Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................................103

Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................108

Decorative Stitching..............................................................................................109
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Stitch Setting Chart


Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility
stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/


Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual
1
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes
J Reverse No
pintucks, etc. (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
Left

2
Straight Basic stitching and sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes
J Reinforcement Yes
stitch gathers or pintucks (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

3 Attaching zippers, basic


Center

3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes


J/I stitching, sewing gathers or Reverse No
(1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
pintucks, etc.
4 Attaching sleeves, sewing
0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes
Triple stretch stitch J inseams, sewing stretch fabrics Reinforcement No
(0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
and decorative stitching
5
Sewing stretch fabrics and 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
Stretch stitch J Reinforcement No
decorative stitching (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

6
0.0 0.0–7.0
Basting stitch J Temporarily securing – – No Reinforcement No
(0) (0–1/4)

7
Center

Overcasting and attaching 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Yes


J Reverse No
appliqués (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) (J)
Zigzag
stitch 8
Beginning sewing from the right 3.5 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 Yes
Right

J Reinforcement Yes
needle position (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

9 Overcasting on mediumweight
2-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement Yes
zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
elastic, darning, etc.
10 Overcasting on mediumweight
3-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement No
zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
elastic, darning, etc.
11
Overcasting on thin or 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0
G No Reinforcement No
mediumweight fabrics (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

12
5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
G Overcasting on thick fabrics No Reinforcement No
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

13
Overcasting on thick fabrics and 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
G No Reinforcement No
decorative stitching (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting stitch
14
5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes
J Overcasting on stretch fabrics Reinforcement No
(3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)

15
Overcasting on thick or stretch 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J)

16
Overcasting on stretch fabrics 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
and decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

70
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/
Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual
17
Blind hem stitching on 2.0 1.0–3.5
R 00 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No
mediumweight fabrics (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem stitch
18
Blind hem stitching on stretch 2.0 1.0–3.5
R 00 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No
fabrics (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

19
3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Yes
Appliqué stitch J Appliqué stitching Reinforcement No
(1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

20
4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 Yes
Shell tuck stitch J Shell tuck stitching Reinforcement No
(3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Piecing straight stitching (with a


21 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 5.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0
J No Reinforcement No
inch) from the right edge of the (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing straight stitch
presser foot)
Piecing straight stitching (with a
3
22
seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 1.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0
J No Reinforcement Yes
inch) from the left edge of the (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
presser foot)
Straight stitch that 23
Straight stitch quilting that looks 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
looks hand-sewn J No Reinforcement No
hand-sewn (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
(for quilting)
24
Zigzag stitch Appliqué quilting, free-motion 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
J No Reinforcement Yes
(for quilting) quilting, satin stitching (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)

25
Appliqué stitch 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0
J Attaching appliqués and binding No Reinforcement No
(for quilting) (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

26
Quilting stitch Quilting background stitching 7.0 1.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
J No Reinforcement No
(for stippling) (stippling) (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

27
5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 Yes
Satin scallop stitch N Scallop stitching Reinforcement No
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) (J)

28 Patchwork stitching and 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes


J Reinforcement No
decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Patchwork stitching, decorative


29
stitching and sewing overcasting 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
Joining stitch J Reinforcement No
on both pieces of fabric, such as (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
with tricot
30
Patchwork stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

31
Smocking stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes
Smocking stitch J Reinforcement No
decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

32
Fagoting and decorative 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
Fagoting stitch
33
Fagoting and decorative 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

34
Elastic-attaching Attaching elastic to stretch 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
J Reinforcement No
stitch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Stitch Setting Chart 71


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/
Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual
35
4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0
J Decorative stitching No Reinforcement No
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)

36
4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No
(3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)

37
5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No
(7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)

38
Decorative stitching and 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
N Reinforcement No
elastic-attaching (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

39 Lace sewing, decorative


3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0
N hemming, heirloom stitching, No Reinforcement No
(1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
etc.
40
Decorative hemming, heirloom 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0
N No Reinforcement No
stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)

41 Decorative hemming on thin,


5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0
Decorative stitch N mediumweight and plain weave No Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
42 Decorative hemming on thin,
5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0 Yes
N mediumweight and plain weave Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
43 Decorative hemming on thin,
5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes
N mediumweight and plain weave Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
44 Decorative hemming on thin,
5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0 Yes
N mediumweight and plain weave Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J)
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
45 Decorative hemming, ribbon
5.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 Yes
N threading, heirloom stitching, Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) (J)
etc.
46
Decorative stitching, smocking 6.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
N No Reinforcement No
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

47
Decorative stitching, smocking 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
N No Reinforcement No
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

72
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Walking Foot
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/
Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual
48
Horizontal buttonholes on thin 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A No No
and mediumweight fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

49
Horizontal buttonholes on areas 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A No No
that are subject to strain (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

50
Horizontal buttonholes on thick 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A No No
fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

51
Secured buttonholes for fabrics 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A No No
that have backings (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

52
Buttonholes for stretch or knit 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0 Automatic
A No No
fabrics (15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) reinforcement
Buttonhole stitch
53
A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5
(15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
3
54
5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0 Automatic
A Bound buttonholes No No
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) reinforcement

55
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A No No
furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

56
Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A No No
mediumweight and thick fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

57
Horizontal buttonholes for thick 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A No No
or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

58
7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic
A Darning mediumweight fabrics No No
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) reinforcement
Darning stitch
59
7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic
A Darning thick fabrics No No
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) reinforcement

60 Reinforcing openings and areas


2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0 Automatic
Bar tack stitch A where the seam easily comes No No
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement
loose
61 3.5 2.5–4.5 Automatic
Button-sewing stitch M Button sewing – – No No
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) reinforcement

62 7.0, 6.0, 5.0 7.0, 6.0, 5.0


Sewing eyelets, for example, on 7.0 7.0 Automatic
Eyelet stitch N (1/4, 15/64, (1/4, 15/64, No No
belts (1/4) (1/4) reinforcement
3/16) 3/16)
63
Sewing straight stitches while 0.0 0.0–2.5 2.5 0.2–5.0
S No Reinforcement No
cutting the fabric (0) (0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)

64
Sewing zigzag stitches while cut- 3.5 3.5–5.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
S No Reinforcement No
ting the fabric (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16)

65 Overcasting on thin and


3.5 3.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0
Side cutter*1 S mediumweight fabrics while cut-
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
ting the fabric
66
Overcasting on thick fabrics 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
S No Reinforcement No
while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

67 Overcasting on mediumweight
5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
S and thick fabrics while cutting No Reinforcement No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
the fabric

*1: Side cutter is optional.

Stitch Setting Chart 73


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. 15 stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"


Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
11 Preventing fraying in medium 3.5 2.0
weight and thin fabrics (1/8) (1/16)
2.5-5.0
(3/32-3/16)
Overcasting 12 1.0-4.0
stitch G
Preventing fraying in thick (1/16-3/16)
fabrics and fabrics that fray 5.0 2.5
easily (3/16) (3/32)
13 3.5-5.0
(1/8-3/16)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a c against the guide of the presser foot, and then


Attach overcasting foot "G". Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

lower the presser foot lever.


G

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser


foot" (page 43).
a

b
Select a stitch.
a Guide
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
d presser foot guide.
(page 49). Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

a Needle drop point

74
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J"


Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J".

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
(center 7 Preventing fraying (center 0.0-7.0 0.0-4.0
needle baseline/reverse stitching) (0-1/4) (0-3/16)
position) 3.5 1.4
(1/8) (1/16)
Zigzag stitch 8
Preventing fraying (right 2.5-5.0 0.3-4.0
(right needle baseline/reinforcement stitching) (3/32-3/16) (1/64-3/16)
position)
9
2-point
zigzag stitch
Preventing fraying in thick 1.5-7.0 1.0 0.2-4.0
3
10
fabrics and stretch fabrics (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16) J
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
(3/16)
14 Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
2.5 0.5-4.0
15 (3/32) (1/32-3/16)
Overcasting Preventing fraying in thick 0.0-7.0
stitch fabrics and stretch fabrics (0-1/4)

16 Preventing fraying in stretch 4.0 4.0 1.0-4.0


fabrics (3/16) (3/16) (1/16-3/16)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a c needle dropping off the edge at the right.


Attach zigzag foot "J". Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

J a

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" a
(page 49).

a Needle drop point

Overcasting Stitches 75
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter


Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five
stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
63 Sewing straight stitches while 0.0 0.0-2.5 2.5 0.2-5.0
cutting the fabric (0) (0-3/32) (3/32) (1/64-3/16)
64 Sewing zigzag stitches while 1.4 0.0-4.0
cutting the fabric (1/16) (0-3/16)
3.5
65 Preventing fraying in thin and (1/8)
2.0
Side cutter mediumweight fabrics while S
(1/16)
cutting the fabric 3.5-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
66 Preventing fraying in thick 1.0-4.0
fabrics while cutting the fabric (1/16-3/16)
5.0 2.5
67 (3/16) (3/32)
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

c is aligned with the notch in the presser foot


Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin

holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot


lever.

Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the b
side cutter, or only attach the side cutter a
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.

a
Remove the presser foot.
a Notch in presser foot holder
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer b Pin
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
X The side cutter is attached.
b onto the needle clamp screw.
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter

a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw

76
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d side cutter is securely attached. h The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the Position the fabric in the side cutter.

the guide plate of the side cutter.

e and then pull it out toward the rear of the


Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

sewing machine.

a
a Guide plate

Memo
z If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.

f
Select a stitch. 3
i sewing.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching


is sewn.

Memo
z If the stitching is sewn in a straight line
63
, the seam allowance will be about 5
mm (3/16 inch).
g the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in

1
1

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

a 2 cm (3/4 inch) z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.

Overcasting Stitches 77
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
6
Basting stitch Temporarily securing - -

1 Basic stitching and sewing


gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ 0.0
Straight stitch reverse stitching) (0)
(left needle
position) 2 Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ 0.0-7.0 0.2-5.0
reinforcement stitching) (1/64-3/16) J
(0-1/4)
2.5
Straight stitch (3/32)
3 Basic stitching and sewing
(center 3.5
gathers or pintucks (center
needle (1/8)
baseline/reverse stitching)
position)
Triple stretch 4 Reinforcing seams and sewing 0.0 1.5-4.0
stitch stretch fabrics (0) (1/16-3/16)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Basting Basic stitching

a
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
b
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). Attach zigzag foot "J".

J
J

Select stitch 6
b
.
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
(page 49).

c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

c • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).


Start sewing.

78
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Changing the needle position


d beginning of the stitching.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle position)
e
Start sewing. and the straight stitch (center needle position).
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page a b
51).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page
53).

f
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
a Straight stitch (left needle position)
55). b Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left


needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0
mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2
3
inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0
and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

a Stitch width setting


b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch


width" (page 57).

Basic Stitching 79
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Blind Hem Stitching


Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
17 Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
Blind hem 2.0 1.0-3.5
00 3← – →3 R
stitch 18 (1/16) (1/16-1/8)
Blind hem stitching on stretch
fabrics

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Memo
z When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the
fabric will not feed and desired results may not achieved.

a c (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and


Reverse the skirt or pants. Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm
a
then baste it .

a Right side of fabric


b Bottom side

b hem, and press.


Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

S< Seen from the side>

a Wrong side of fabric


1 2
2 b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Basting stitching
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
1 2
S< Seen from the side>

a Wrong side of fabric


b Right side of fabric

80
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d h free-arm sewing possible.


Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. Remove the flat bed attachment and make

4
2 • For details on free-arm sewing, refer to "Free-
arm sewing" (page 46).
3

i arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,


Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
1
and then start sewing.
a
1

S< Seen from the side>


a Wrong side of fabric
b Edge of fabric
c Basting
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

e fabric with the wrong side facing up.


Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
a Arm
3
j hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

3 then lower the presser foot lever.

1 1
R

2
1
1
S< Seen from the side> c
a Wrong side of fabric 1
b
b Basting
c Edge of fabric a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
f
Attach blind hem foot "R".

k catches the fold of the hem.


Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
R

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). 1

g
Select a stitch. a Needle drop point

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page When you change the needle drop point, raise
49). the needle, and then change the stitch width.
a

a Stitch width

Blind Hem Stitching 81


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem


fold
The needle is too far to the left.
Press to decrease the stitch width so that
the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric


b Right side of fabric
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right.
Press to increase the stitch width so that the
needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric


b Right side of fabric

Memo
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 57).

l presser foot guide.


Sew with the fold of the hem against the

m fabric.
Remove the basting stitching and reverse the

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric


b Right side of fabric

82
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Buttonhole Stitching
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes,
one for sewing on buttons.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
48 Horizontal buttonholes on thin
and mediumweight fabrics
49 Horizontal buttonholes on areas
that are subject to strain
5.0 3.0-5.0 0.5 0.2-1.0
50 (3/16) (1/8-3/16) (1/32) (1/64-1/16)
Horizontal buttonholes on thick

51
fabrics
3
Buttonholes with bar tacks on
both ends for stabilized fabrics
52 Buttonholes for stretch or knit 1.0 0.5-2.0
fabrics (1/16) (1/32-1/16)
Buttonhole 6.0 3.0-6.0
stitch A
53 (15/64) (1/8-15/64)
1.5 1.0-3.0
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics (1/16) (1/16-1/8)
54 5.0 0.0-6.0 2.0 0.2-4.0
Bound buttonholes (3/16) (0-15/64) (1/16) (1/64-3/16)
55 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
plush fabrics
56 Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 3.0-7.0 0.5 0.3-1.0
mediumweight and thick fabrics (1/4) (1/8-1/4) (1/32) (1/64-1/16)
57 Horizontal buttonhole for thick
or plush fabrics

Button- 61 3.5 2.5-4.5


Button sewing - - M
sewing stitch (1/8) (3/32-3/16)

Buttonhole Stitching 83
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a and length of the buttonhole.


The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

1 2

6
3

4
a Marks on fabric
A b Buttonhole sewing

a Button guide plate


b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
f Bracket

84
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

b foot "A", and then insert the button that will be d


Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
put through the buttonhole.
49).

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide


plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the
button, and then set the button guide plate to the
calculated length. (The distance between the
markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16
inch).)
3

e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on


Position the fabric with the front end of the

b the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then


c lower the presser foot lever.
a

a Presser foot scale


b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: A
b
For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16
inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the a Mark on fabric (front)
button guide plate should be set to b Red marks on buttonhole foot
25 mm (1inch) on the scale.
• Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
1

2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.

c
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Buttonhole Stitching 85
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

h and then cut the threads.


Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,
Note
z Do not lower the needle into fabric when

i position.
aligning the marks. Desired results may not Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
be achieved.
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push

j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent


in the front of the presser foot. Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

the stitching from being cut.

a
a Do not reduce the gap. a Pin

f possible.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
k open the buttonhole.
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and

a
a
a Buttonhole lever
a Seam ripper
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot. For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
a
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.

b
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
a

g your left hand, and then start sewing.


Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

a Eyelet punch

Note
z When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.

86
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics


CAUTION When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
● When opening the buttonhole with the
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
seam ripper, do not place your hands in a buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration.
the cutting path, otherwise injuries may
result if the seam ripper slips.
● Do not use the seam ripper in any other
way than how it is intended.

■ Changing the density of the stitching


Adjust the stitch length.

It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.


b
3
Memo
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
length" (page 59).
z If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it
is too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width


Attach buttonhole foot "A".
Adjust the stitch width. c
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 52 or 53 .
d

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the


e gimp thread.

Memo
Lower the presser foot lever and the
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch f buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
width" (page 57).
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
length and width by sewing a trial g thread to remove any slack.
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp


h thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.

Buttonhole Stitching 87
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

e the distance between the holes in the button.


Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
Button sewing

f be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.


Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Place the button in the position where it will
Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.

a button to be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the

a
a Button
b drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
X The button is held in place.
machine on the base, to (to the left as seen
from the rear of the machine).
Memo
z When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing
a machine, and then sew them in the same
way.
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.

c
Attach button-fitting foot "M".

g (counterclockwise) to check that the needle


Turn the handwheel toward you

correctly goes into the two holes of the button.


• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). the button holes.

Select stitch 61
d
.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).

Note CAUTION
z Since the end of the thread will be tied off ● When sewing, be sure that the needle
later, do not set the sewing machine for
does not touch the button, otherwise the
programmed-thread cutting.
needle may bend or break.

88
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

h Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so


Start sewing.

that the speed will be slow).

X The sewing machine automatically stops


after sewing reinforcement stitches.

Note
z Do not press (Thread cutter button). 3
i stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
Pull the upper thread at the end of the

then tie it with the bobbin thread.


Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
When you are finished attaching the button, slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine).

j slide the drop feed lever to


When you have finished attaching the button,
(to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn
the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

Memo
z The drop feed lever is normally set to the
right side.

Buttonhole Stitching 89
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
(center 3 Attaching zippers 3.5 0.0-7.0 2.5 0.2-5.0
Sewing concealed seams and I
needle (1/8) (0-1/4) (3/32) (1/64-3/16)
pintucks
position)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.

c edge of the fabric.


Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
1
against each other.

3
2

2 4
1
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
3 d End of zipper opening

a Right side of fabric


d wrong side of the fabric.
Press open the seam allowance from the
b Stitching
c End of zipper opening

a
Attach zigzag foot "J".
1
J

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). a Wrong side of fabric

b With the right sides of the fabric facing each


Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the


zipper opening.
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).

90
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Select stitch 3
e and then baste the zipper in place. h
Align the seam with the center of the zipper, .
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

a Wrong side of fabric CAUTION


b Basting stitching
c Zipper ● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
f the basting on the outside.
Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser 3
2 4 foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
3 1
may bend or break.

i
Topstitch around the zipper.

a Wrong side of fabric


b Zipper basting 1
c Outside basting 3
d 5 mm (2 inches)
2

g of zipper foot "I".


Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

4
a

a Pin on the right side


b Needle drop point a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer c Basting stitching
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). d End of zipper opening

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

j
Remove the basting stitching.

Zipper Insertion 91
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

d wrong side of the fabric.


Press open the seam allowance from the
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper application for side openings and 1
back openings.

1
a Wrong side of fabric
2
e (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
Press the seam allowance so that the right side

3 mm (1/8 inch).

3
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c End of zipper opening 1
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
2
a
Attach zigzag foot "J". a Wrong side of fabric
b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

f the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),


J Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of

and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
2

b With the right sides of the fabric facing each


Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. 1

other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the


zipper opening. a Zipper teeth
b Basting stitching
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).
g of zipper foot "I".
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

c edge of the fabric.


Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
1
a

3
2 I

4 b

a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches a Pin on the right side
c Wrong side of fabric b Needle drop point
d End of zipper opening • For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

92
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Select stitch 3
h j end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
. When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
(page 49).
then raise the presser foot lever.

k
Open the zipper and continue sewing.

CAUTION
● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
l baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
toward you (counterclockwise) to check Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
that the needle does not touch the presser 3
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.

i extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base


Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
1
of the zipper.

a Basting stitching

m of zipper foot "I".


Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin

If the presser foot holder was attached to the


right pin in step g, change it to the left pin.

CAUTION
I
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the b
needle may bend or break.

a Pin on the left side


b Needle drop point

Zipper Insertion 93
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

n Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper


Topstitch around the zipper.

opening and align the zipper teeth with the side


of the presser foot.

3
4
2

1 5

a Right side of fabric


b End of zipper opening
c Reverse stitches
d Beginning of stitching
e Basting stitching

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

o end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine


When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and


then raise the presser foot lever.

p and then continue sewing.


Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,

94
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape


Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Triple stretch 4 0.0 0.0-7.0 2.5 1.5-4.0
Stretch fabrics
stitch (0) (0-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
5 1.0 1.0-3.0 2.5 1.0-4.0
Stretch stitch Stretch fabrics (1/16) (1/16-1/8) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)

2-point zigzag 9
stitch J
5.0 1.5-7.0
3-point zigzag 10
Attaching elastic (3/16) (1/16-1/4)
1.0 0.2-4.0
3
stitch (1/16) (1/64-3/16)
Elastic- 34
Attaching elastic to stretch 4.0 0.0-7.0
attaching fabrics (3/16) (0-1/4)
stitch

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Stretch stitching

a
Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 4 or 5
b
.

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page


49).

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 95


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

d stretching the tape so that it is the same length


Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
Elastic attaching
as the fabric.
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary nearest the front of the presser foot with your
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used. right hand.

a fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points


to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.

a Elastic tape
b Pin

b
Attach zigzag foot "J".

CAUTION
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer ● When sewing, be sure that the needle
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

96
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching


The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7 Attaching appliqués
(center baseline/reverse
stitching) 0.0-7.0 1.4 0.0-4.0
Zigzag stitch (0-1/4) (1/16) (0-3/16)
24 Appliqué quilting, free-motion 3.5
quilting, satin stitching (1/8)

19
2.5-7.0 2.5 1.6-4.0
Attaching appliqués (3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
25 1.5 0.5-3.5 1.8 1.0-4.0
3
Attaching appliqués and binding (1/16) (1/32-1/8) (1/16) (1/16-3/16)
Piecing straight stitching (with a
21 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 5.5
inch) from the right edge of the (3/16)
Piecing presser foot) 2.0 0.2-5.0
straight stitch Piecing straight stitching (with a (1/16) (1/64-3/16)
0.0-7.0 J
22 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 1.5 (0-1/4)
inch) from the left edge of the (1/16)
presser foot)
28 4.0 1.2 0.2-4.0
(3/16) (1/16) (1/64-3/16)
29 2.5-7.0 2.5 1.0-4.0
Joining stitch Patchwork stitching (3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
5.0
30 (3/16)
1.2 0.2-4.0
(1/16) (1/64-3/16)
0.0-7.0
23 (0-1/4)
Mock hand Straight stitch quilting that looks 0.0 2.5
quilting stitch hand quilting (0) (3/32)
1.0-4.0
26 (1/16-3/16)
Quilting 7.0 1.0-7.0 1.6
Stippling
stippling (1/4) (1/16-1/4) (1/16)

Memo
z Patterns showing a "Q" on the LCD are for quilting and those showing a "P" are for piecing.

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

e
Select a stitch.
Appliqué stitching • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam

16 inch).

a Seam allowance

b stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then


Place a pattern made of thick paper or

f (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing


Turn the handwheel toward you
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.

c onto the fabric that it will be attached to.


Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it

When sewing around corners, stop the


machine with the needle in the fabric just
1 outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
a Basting stitching

d
Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

98
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Select stitch 21 or 22
c
.
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

a place it over the lower piece.


Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

b pattern spans over both pieces.


Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

Memo
z The piecing straight stitch shows a "P" on the
LCD.

d with the edge of the fabric.


Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
3
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 21 .

Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
"piecing". The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5
mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. ■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from Align the left side of the presser foot with the
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot. edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 22 .

1
a fabric that you wish to piece together.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

b
Attach zigzag foot "J".

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
z To change the width of the seam allowance
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
(needle position), refer to "Changing the
needle position" (page 79).

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

d foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw


Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
Quilting
with the screwdriver.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
quilting guide.
a

a Presser foot holder screw


X The walking foot is attached.
Walking foot Quilting guide

CAUTION
Note
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle
speed between slow and medium.
z When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing may touch the presser foot, causing it to
machine needle. bend or break.
z The walking foot can only be used with ● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse handwheel toward you
stitches cannot be sewn with the walking (counterclockwise) and check that the
foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch needle does not touch the presser foot. If
patterns with reinforcement stitches. For the needle hits the presser foot, the
details, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart"(page needle may bend or break.
70).

e
Select a stitch.

a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).
b holder.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

f foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while


Place one hand on each side of the presser
• For details, refer to "Removing and attaching
the presser foot holder" (page 45). sewing.

c onto the needle clamp screw.


Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw

100
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Using the optional quilting guide


Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.

Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the


a hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
† Walking foot

† Presser foot holder

Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that


b the guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 101


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder


Hold the quilting foot "O" in place with your right
Free-motion quilting
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
When free-motion quilting, use the following
instructions with the optional free-motion open toe
quilting foot "O" (SA187, F061 (XE1097-001)).
a Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
the screwdriver. otherwise the needle
may touch the presser foot, causing it to
CAUTION bend or break.

● Be sure to use the optional free-motion


d the machine on the base, to
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of
open toe quilting foot "O" when making (to the left as
free-motion quilting. If the quilting foot seen from the rear of the machine).
(SA129, F005N (XC1948-002)) is used,
the needle threader may be damaged.

a holder.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
a

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the


• Refer to "Removing and attaching the presser machine)
foot holder" (page 45). X The feed dogs are lowered.

e stitch 3
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
b positioning the pin of the quilting foot above
Attach free-motion quilting foot "O" by
or 24 .
the needle clamp screw and aligning the
lower-left of the quilting foot and the presser • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).

f then move the fabric at a consistent pace in


bar. Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and

1 order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0-


3 2.5mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
2 beginning and end of sewing.

a Pin
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser bar

Note a Stitch
z Make sure that the quilting foot is not
g lever to
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
slanted.
(to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) and turn the handwheel to
raise the feed dogs.

Memo
z The drop feed lever is normally set to the
right side.

102
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Triple stretch 4 Reinforcing the seams of sleeves 0.0 0.0-7.0 2.5 1.5-4.0 J
stitch and inseams (0) (0-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)

60 Reinforcing the ends of 2.0 1.0-3.0 0.4 0.3-1.0


Bar tack stitch openings, such as the corners of (1/16) (1/16-1/8) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
pockets
58
Darning mediumweight fabrics A
7.0 2.5-7.0 2.0 0.4-2.5
Darning stitch
59
Darning thick fabrics
(1/4) (3/32-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/32) 3

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Triple stretch stitching Bar tack stitching


Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
and inseams. strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
a
Attach zigzag foot "J".
pocket corners is described below.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 4
b
.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).

c
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).

Reinforcement Stitching 103


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot


Determine the desired length of the bar tack. • Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
"A" to the desired length. (The distance between
the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm
(3/16 inch).)

2
3
Note
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
a Presser foot scale
size.
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo
z A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.

b
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
a
Select stitch 60
c
.
a Do not reduce the gap.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).

e possible.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the


Position the fabric so that the opening of the

presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 a


mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening. a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the


bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a 2mm (1/16 inch)


b
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

104
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f your left hand, and then start sewing.


Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

X Once sewing is completed, the sewing


machine automatically sews reinforcement
stitches, then stops.

g and then cut the threads.


Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,

3
h position.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the
stitch length" (page 59).

Reinforcement Stitching 105


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Darning
Fabric that has been torn can be darned.
Darning is sewn as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

Select stitch 58 or 59
a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot c
Determine the desired length of the darning. .
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
"A" to the desired length. (The distance between
(page 49).
the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm
(3/16 inch).)

d (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned,


Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm
2
3 and then lower the presser foot lever.

4 1

a Presser foot scale


b Length of darning
c 5 mm (3/16 inch) 2
d 7 mm (1/4 inch)

a Tear
Memo b 2 mm (1/16 inch)
z A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn. • Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.

b
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

106
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f your left hand, and then start sewing.


Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
Memo
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
darning will not be sewn with the correct
size.

X Once sewing is completed, the sewing


machine automatically sews reinforcement
stitches, then stops.

g and then cut the threads.


Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,

a
a Do not reduce the gap.
h position.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original 3
e possible.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the
stitch length" (page 59).

a
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

Reinforcement Stitching 107


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/
64 and 3/16 inch).

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7.0, 6.0 or 7.0, 6.0 or
62 Sewing eyelets, for example, on 7.0 5.0 7.0 5.0
Eyelet stitch N
belts (1/4) (1/4, 15/64 (1/4) (1/4, 15/64
or 3/16) or 3/16)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a d beginning of the stitching, and then lower the


Attach monogramming foot "N". Lower the needle into the fabric at the

presser foot lever.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 62
b
.
e
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49). X Once sewing is completed, the sewing
machine automatically sews reinforcement
stitches, then stops.

f center of the eyelet.


Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the

When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper


or some other protective sheet under the fabric
before punching the hole in the fabric.

c length to select the desired eyelet size.


Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch


width" (page 57) and "Adjusting the stitch
length" (page 59).

7mm 6mm 5mm


Memo
z If thin thread is used, the stitching may be
too open. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice
before removing the fabric, one on top of the
other.

108
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Decorative Stitching
The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches.

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
32
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
Fagoting Sewing two pieces of fabric 5.0 2.5 1.0-4.0
stitch 33
together across an open seam (3/16) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/25-1/4)
28 4.0 0.0-7.0 1.2 0.2-4.0
(3/16) (0-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16)

Joining stitch
29
Decorative bridging stitches
2.5-7.0 2.5 1.0-4.0 3
(3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
5.0
30 (3/16)
1.2 J
(1/16)
0.2-4.0
20 (1/64-3/16)
Shell tuck Shell tuck stitching on collars 4.0 2.5
stitch and curves (3/16) (3/32)
0.0-7.0
31 (0-1/4)
1.6
(1/16)

Smocking 32 Smocking fabrics to add texture 1.0-4.0


stitch and elasticity (1/16-3/16)
5.0 2.5
33 (3/16) (3/32)

2.5-7.0
27 (3/25-1/4)
Satin scallop 0.5 0.1-1.0
Scallop stitching
stitch (1/32) (1/64-3/16)
39 3.5 2.5 1.6-4.0
Lace sewing, decorative (1/8) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
hemming, heirloom stitching,
40 etc. 6.0 3.0
(15/64) (1/8)
41
3.5
(1/8)
N
42
Decorative 1.5-7.0 4.0
stitch Decorative hemming and (1/16-1/4) (3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin, 1.5-4.0
43 mediumweight and plain weave (1/16-3/16)
fabrics 5.0 2.5
(3/16) (3/32)
44 2.0
(1/16)

45 Decorative hemming, ribbon 3.0


threading, heirloom stitching, (1/8)
etc.

Decorative Stitching 109


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Stitch Width Stitch Length


[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
46 6.0
(15/64)
1.5-7.0 1.6 1.0-4.0
Heirloom stitching, etc. N
47 (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/16-3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
35 3.0 2.0-4.0
Decorative (1/8) (1/16-3/16)
4.0
stitch 36 (3/16)
0.0-7.0 2.5 J
(0-1/4) (3/32)
Decorative stitching 1.0-4.0
37 (1/16-3/16)
5.5 1.6
(7/32) (1/16)
38 5.0 1.5-7.0 1.0 0.2-4.0 N
(3/16) (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16)

CAUTION
● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may
occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

c
Attach zigzag foot "J".
Fagoting
J
Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


a along their seams.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 32 or 33
d
.
b about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer. (page 49).
• If you draw a line down the middle of the
thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing
is easier.
3

e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
2
width" (page 57).
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

110
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f along the center of the two pieces of fabric.


Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of
blouses and to decorate the edges of projects.

a
Attach monogramming foot "N".

g
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

b
Select stitch 27 . 3
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

c not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.


Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure

Memo
z For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.

d
Trim along the stitches.

Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Decorative Stitching 111


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Select stitch 31 , 32 , or 33
e
.
Smocking • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The
smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.

a
Attach zigzag foot "J".

f
Stitch between the straight stitches.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen


Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the

the thread tension.


• Pull up the bobbin thread. For details, refer to
"When pulling up the bobbin thread may be
necessary" (page 29).

g
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
length" (page 59) and "Adjusting the thread
tension" (page 59).

c inch).
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8

a 1cm (3/8 inch)


At the end of the stitching, the thread is pulled
out about 5 cm (2 inches).

Note
z Do not use reverse/reinforcement stitching
or thread cutting.

d Smooth the gathers by ironing them.


Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

112
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

e down to one side.


Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called "shell
tucks". They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

a
Fold the fabric along the bias.

3
b
Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser


foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 20
c thread tension.
, and then increase the

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page


49) and "Adjusting the thread tension" (page
59).

d slightly off the edge of the fabric.


Sew while making sure that the needle drops

a Needle drop point

Decorative Stitching 113


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Joining Heirloom stitching


Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
making a crazy quilt. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave

a
Attach zigzag foot "J". fabrics.

a
J Install the wing needle.

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser


foot" (page 43). • For details on installing a needle, refer to
"Replacing the needle" (page 41).
b of fabric, and then open up the seam
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
Memo
allowances. z Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
2 wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
1
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to "Threading
1 the needle manually (without using the
needle threader)" (page 36).

3
b
Attach monogramming foot "N".
a Wrong side of fabric
b 7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch

Select stitch 28 29
, or 30
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49). • For details on replacing the presser foot, refer
to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

d up, and then sew over the seam with the


Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces

center of the presser foot aligned with the


seam.

a Right side of fabric

114
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

c The stitches that can be used are 39


Select a stitch. Partially removing threads is called "drawnwork".
, 40 , This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
41 loose weave.
, 42 , 43 , 44 , 45 , 46 or 47 . Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).

Pull out several threads from the fabric.


a
3

Note
z When sewing with the wing needle, select a
stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less. Attach monogramming foot "N".
b

d
Start sewing.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 39 .
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching"
(page 49).
CAUTION
● When sewing with the wing needle, select
a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or
less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
(counterclockwise) and check that the d along the right edge of the frayed section.
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
N

Decorative Stitching 115


UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Press on the LCD. ■ Drawnwork (Example 2)


e

X The pattern displayed at the top of the screen


is mirrored.
Pull out several threads from two sections of
a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).

Sew along the other edge of the frayed section


f so that it looks like the previous stitching.

N a 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Attach monogramming foot "N" .


b

Press , and set the horizontal mirror


g image key back to OFF.

• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer


to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).

Select stitch 42 .
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).

Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.


d

116
4 EMBROIDERY
The steps for embroidering are described in this chapter.

Embroidering Neatly .............................................................................................118

Attaching the Embroidery Foot..............................................................................120

Attaching the Embroidery Unit..............................................................................123

Preparing the Fabric ..............................................................................................126

Attaching the Embroidery Frame...........................................................................130

Selecting Embroidery Patterns...............................................................................132

Embroidering.........................................................................................................139

Editing and Saving Patterns ...................................................................................143


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Embroidering Neatly
This section describes the preparations and basic procedures for embroidering.
■ Embroidery thread (option)
What to prepare For the upper thread, use the embroidery thread or
country thread.
The following is necessary for embroidering.
■ Fabric
Prepare the fabric for embroidery. Prepare a piece
of fabric a little larger than the embroidery frame
that matches the size of the pattern you want to
sew.

Note For the bobbin thread, use the embroidery bobbin


z Always use stabilizer when sewing thread. For details, refer to "Optional accessories"
embroidery projects, especially when (page 9).
embroidering on lightweight or stretch
fabrics. Memo
z When embroidering on large pieces of z For good quality embroidery designs be sure
fabric, arrange the fabric so that it does not to use embroidery thread designed for
hang off the table where the sewing machine embroidery machines.
is placed. If embroidery is done with the z Before starting to sew, be sure there is
fabric hanging off, the embroidery unit enough bobbin thread. If you continue
movement may be impaired, this could embroidering when the bobbin thread is
cause the pattern to sew incorrectly. low, the thread may become tangled.

■ Needle
CAUTION Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When
● Do not embroider fabrics that are too embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use a
thick. To check the fabric thickness, 90/14 home sewing machine needle.
attach the embroidery frame to the
Memo
embroidery unit, and use (Needle
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
position button) to raise the needle. If
sewing machine is purchased.
there is space between the presser foot z When replacing the needle, refer to
and the fabric, the fabric can be "Replacing the needle" (page 41).
embroidered. If there is not space, do not
embroider the fabric. Otherwise, the
needle may break, resulting in injury. CAUTION
● Be careful when sewing overlapping ● Since ball point needles (gold colored) are
patterns. The needle may not easily pierce needles for fabrics where stitches are
the fabric, causing the needle to break. easily skipped, such as pattern stitching
and stretch fabrics, be absolutely sure not
■ Stabilizer material (option) to use them for embroidery. The needle
Attach a stabilizer material for embroidery to the may break or bend.
fabric to prevent poor quality embroidery designs.

■ Other
Embroidery frames "small" and "large" are
optional. For details, refer to "Setting the fabric in
the embroidery frame" (page 127).
Use a water soluble sheet on thin materials like
organdy and fabrics with a nap like towels.
For details, refer to "Attaching a stabilizer material
to the fabric" (page 126).

118
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Embroidery step by step


The basic steps for embroidery are as follows.
Attach the embroidery foot "Q".
1 Presser foot attachment For details on attaching the embroidery foot, refer to "Attaching the
embroidery foot" (page 120).

Use a needle matched to the fabric.
2 Checking the needle For details on replacing the needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page
41).

Attach the embroidery unit.
3 Embroidery unit attachment For details on attaching the embroidery unit, refer to "Attaching the
embroidery unit" (page 123).

For the bobbin thread, wind embroidery bobbin thread and set it in
place.
4 Bobbin thread setup For details on setting up the bobbin thread, refer to "Winding/Installing
the Bobbin" (page 22).

Attach a stabilizer material to the fabric, and hoop it in an embroidery
4
frame.
5 Fabric preparation For details on preparing the fabric, refer to "Preparing the Fabric" (page
126).

Embroidery frame Attach the embroidery frame to the embroidery unit.


6 For details on attaching the embroidery frame, refer to "Attaching the
attachment Embroidery Frame" (page 130).

Turn the power on, and select an embroidery pattern.
7 Pattern selection For details on selecting embroidery patterns, refer to "Selecting
Embroidery Patterns" (page 132).

Check and adjust the size and position of the embroidery.
8 Checking the layout For details on adjusting the layout and the size, refer to "Adjusting the
layout and the size" (page 143).

Set up embroidery thread according to the pattern.
9 Embroidery thread setup For details on setting up the thread, refer to "Upper Threading" (page 31).

Embroidering Neatly 119


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Attaching the Embroidery Foot


This section describes how to attach the embroidery foot "Q".

b
Turn off the sewing machine.
Attaching the embroidery foot
Attach the embroidery foot "Q" when embroidering.
Have the included embroidery foot "Q" and a
screwdriver ready.

CAUTION
a
z Before attaching the embroidery foot, be
sure to turn off the sewing machine.
b Otherwise, injuries may occur if a button
a Embroidery foot bar is accidentally pressed and the machine
b Caught by the presser foot holder screw starts sewing.

CAUTION
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
● Always use the embroidery foot "Q" when
embroidering. If the wrong presser foot is
used, the needle may hit the presser foot
and bend or break.

a
a twice to raise the needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or

a Presser foot lever


a
X The presser foot is raised.

d the presser foot holder to detach the presser


Press and hold the black button on the back of

foot.

a Needle position button

Note
b
z The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top. Check the
handwheel mark is at the top position.

a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.

120
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

e remove the presser foot holder. h foot holder screw.


Loosen the presser foot holder screw and Secure the embroidery foot with the presser

Turn the screwdriver toward the back. Set the embroidery foot perpendicular.

a c

b
a Presser foot holder screw
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
i Turn the screwdriver toward the front.
Tighten the presser foot holder screw.
c Presser bar
d Presser foot holder screw

f hand, as shown.
Hold the embroidery foot "Q" with your right

Hold the embroidery foot with your index a


finger wrapped around the lever at the back of
the foot.
4
a a Screwdriver

CAUTION
● Do not hit the needle with your finger or
the embroidery foot "Q" when attaching
it. The needle may break or cause injury.
● Be sure to tighten the screw with the
a Lever included screwdriver. If the screw is
loose, the needle may hit the presser foot
and break or bend.
g the embroidery foot bar over the needle clamp
While pressing in the lever with your finger, fit
● Before sewing, always turn the
screw to attach the embroidery foot to the handwheel toward you
presser foot bar. (counterclockwise) slowly to make sure
that the needle does not hit the presser
c foot. The needle may break or bend.

b
a

a Presser bar
b Needle clamp screw
c Embroidery foot bar

Attaching the Embroidery Foot 121


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

d embroidery foot with your finger, loosen the


While pressing in the lever at the back of the
Removing the embroidery foot
presser foot holder screw, and then remove
embroidery foot "Q".
a twice to raise the needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or
Turn the screwdriver toward the back.
a

a Needle position button


a Screwdriver

b
Turn off the sewing machine.
e
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to "Removing and attaching
the presser foot holder" (page 45).

CAUTION
z Before removing the embroidery foot, be
sure to turn off the sewing machine.
Otherwise, injuries may occur if a button
is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.

c
Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever


X The presser foot is raised.

122
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Attaching the Embroidery Unit


This section describes how to attach the embroidery unit.

Embroidery unit precautions Attaching the embroidery unit


Get the included embroidery unit ready.
CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine with
the embroidery unit in place. The
embroidery unit may be dropped and
cause injury.
● Keep your hands and other objects away
from the embroidery carriage and frame.
Otherwise injury may result.

a
Turn off the sewing machine.
Note
z Do not touch the connector in the 4
embroidery unit connector slot. The
connector could be damaged, and it may
cause malfunctions.
z Do not lift up on the embroidery carriage, Note
and do not forcefully move it. It may cause z Always turn off the sewing machine before
malfunctions. attaching the embroidery unit. It may cause
malfunctions.

a
b
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a Carriage

a Flat bed attachment

Attaching the Embroidery Unit 123


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

c machine arm.
Slide the embroidery unit onto the sewing

Push it in until it clicks and stops.


a

a Carriage

CAUTION
● Do not put your hands or other objects
X The embroidery unit is attached.
near the carriage. It may cause injury.

Note
z Make sure that there is no gap between the Note
embroidery unit and the sewing machine, z If the machine is initialized with hands or
otherwise the embroidery pattern may not objects near the carriage, the screen may
be sewn correctly. return to the initial display. After removing
Be sure to fully insert the connector into the whatever is near the carriage, turn the power
connection port. on again.
z Do not push on the carriage when attaching
the embroidery unit to the machine,
X The screen for selecting the embroidery
otherwise damage to the embroidery unit
pattern type is displayed.
may result.

d
Turn on the sewing machine.

X The confirmation message is displayed. Memo


z Utility stitches cannot be selected when the

e embroidery unit and press


Be sure that no objects or hands are near the embroidery unit is attached.
. z For details on the embroidery patterns, refer
to "Selecting Embroidery Patterns" (page
132).

X The carriage moves to its initial position.

124
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d the embroidery unit, and slowly pull the


Hold the release button on the bottom left of
Removing the embroidery unit
embroidery unit to the left.
Make sure that the sewing machine is completely
stopped and follow the instructions below.

a
Remove the embroidery frame.
• For details on removing the embroidery
frame, refer to "Removing the embroidery
frame" (page 131).

b
Press , and then press . a

a Release button
X The embroidery carriage moves into a
position where it can be saved. X The embroidery unit separates from the
sewing machine.
4
c
Turn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION
● Do not carry the embroidery unit by
holding the carriage. It may cause
malfunctions.
CAUTION
● Always turn off the sewing machine
before removing the embroidery unit. It
may cause malfunctions if removed when
the machine is turned on.

Attaching the Embroidery Unit 125


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Preparing the Fabric


After attaching a stabilizer material to the embroidery fabric, it is stretched on an embroidery frame.

a the embroidery frame being used.


Prepare stabilizer material that is larger than
Attaching a stabilizer
material to the fabric
Attach a stabilizer material for embroidery to the
fabric to prevent poor quality embroidery designs.

a c
b

Memo a Fabric
z We recommend the optional stabilizer b Size of embroidery frame
material for embroidery. Use a water soluble c Stabilizer material
sheet on thin materials like organdy and
b the adhesive surface of the stabilizer material
fabrics with a nap like towels. If you are using stabilizers with adhesive, place
To obtain optional accessories or parts, visit
[http://www.brother.com/], or [http:// against the wrong side of the fabric, and iron it
www.brothermall.com] (in USA). with a steam iron.

CAUTION
● Always use stabilizer material when 1
sewing embroidery projects. The needle
may break or bend if you embroider 2
without using a stabilizer material for thin
3
fabrics or stretch fabrics. Furthermore,
the pattern may be sewn incorrectly. a Stabilizer material
b Fabric (wrong side)
c Attached surface
† When it cannot be ironed or placed in the
hoop
For fabrics, such as towels, which cannot be
ironed or for embroidering in places where
ironing is difficult, place the stabilizer
material under the fabric, and stretch the
fabric in the embroidery frame without
attaching the stabilizer.

126
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

a screw and remove the inner and outer frames,


Loosen the embroidery frame adjustment
Setting the fabric in the
embroidery frame placing the outer frame on a flat surface.
Separate the inner and outer frame by removing
inner frame upward.
The fabric is stretched in the embroidery frame. If the
fabric is loose, the quality of the embroidery pattern
may be poor. Put the fabric in the frame without slack
following the steps below. Have a fabric with a a
stabilizer material attached and the embroidery frame
(medium, small or large) ready. b
c
■ Embroidery frame (medium)
Patterns with a height of up to 10 cm (4 inches) a Inner frame
and a width of up to 10 cm (4 inches) can be b Outer frame
c Adjustment screw
sewn.

b top of the outer frame.


Place the fabric with the stabilizer material on

Have the right side of the cloth up.

■ Embroidery frame (small) [option]


Patterns with a height of up to 2 cm (1 inch) and a 1
width of up to 6 cm (2-1/2 inches) can be sewn. 4
This is used for letters and other small embroidery.

a Right side

c fabric.
Press the inner frame in from the top of the

Line up on the inner frame and on


Memo outer frame.
z There are patterns for which embroidery
frame (small) cannot be used.

■ Embroidery frame (large) [option]


Embroidery can be done in an area with a height
of up to 17 cm (6-7/10 inch) and a width of up to
10 cm (4 inch) . This is used to embroider multiple
patterns without changing the fabric position in
the frame.

d enough to secure the fabric.


Tighten the adjustment screw by hand just

CAUTION
● Use the embroidery frame that matches
the size of the pattern being embroidered.
Otherwise, the embroidery frame may be
hit by the presser foot and cause injury or
needle breakage.

Preparing the Fabric 127


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

e without loosening the adjustment screw. g any slack in the fabric by hand. The goal is to
Gently remove the fabric from the frame Tighten the adjustment screw while removing

have a drum-like sound when the stretched


fabric is struck lightly.

Memo
z This precautionary step will help reduce
pattern distortion while embroidering.
■ Using embroidery sheets
If the embroidery sheet attached to the embroidery
f fabric again, lining up
Press the inner frame in from the top of the frame is used, the embroidery can be sewn in
on the inner frame exactly the right position on the fabric.
and on outer frame.

Embroidery sheet Embroidery sheet (small)


(medium) [option]

3 Embroidery sheet (large)


[option]
1 2
Make a mark with a chalk pen at the center of
5 4 a the position for the pattern to be embroidered.

a Outer frame
b Inner frame
c Fabric (right side) a
d Stabilizer material
e Ledge of outer frame
• Press down firmly until the inner frame is
securely pressed against the ledge of the b
outer frame.
a Embroidery pattern
b Mark

128
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Place the embroidery sheet on the inner frame. ■ Embroidery on fabrics that cannot be stretched
b on an embroidery frame
a
When small pieces of fabric that cannot be
stretched on an embroidery frame or thin pieces
like ribbon are being embroidered, use stabilizer
material as a base to stretch on the frame. We
recommend stabilizer material for all embroidery.
b

a
a Embroidery sheet
b Inner frame b
c
Line the mark on the fabric up with the base
c line on the embroidery sheet.

a
a
c

b
b
4
a Base line
b Mark

Place the inner frame with the fabric on the


d outer frame and stretch the fabric.
a

c
• For details, refer to page 127.

Remove the embroidery sheet.


e
a Stabilizer material
b Tack or spray glue
c Fabric
After completing the embroidery, remove the
stabilizer material carefully.

Preparing the Fabric 129


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Attaching the Embroidery Frame


This section describes how to attach the embroidery frame.

e the embroidery carriage frame holder from the


Firmly insert the embroidery frame guide into
Attaching the embroidery frame
top.
Line up the embroidery frame guide tabs and
a bobbin and set it into the bobbin case.
Wind the embroidery bobbin thread onto the
the embroidery carriage frame holder slots and
push in until it clicks and stops.
• For details, refer to "Winding/Installing the
a
Bobbin" (page 22).

b
Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever b

a Embroidery frame guide tabs


c twice to raise the needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or b Embroidery carriage frame holder slots

X The embroidery unit is attached.


a

Note
z Be sure to insert both pins. If only the
forward or the back pin is inserted, the
pattern may not turn out correctly.

a Needle position button CAUTION


● Correctly set the embroidery frame into
d foot while raising the presser foot lever even
Pass the embroidery frame under the presser
the embroidery frame holder. Otherwise,
further. the presser foot may hit the embroidery
frame, resulting in injury.

CAUTION
● Do not touch a button. If a button is
accidentally pressed, the machine starts
sewing, and your finger may be pricked
with the needle or the needle may break.

130
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d foot while raising the presser foot lever even


Pass the embroidery frame under the presser
Removing the embroidery
frame further.

Make sure that the sewing machine is completely


stopped and follow the instructions below.

a
Raise the presser foot lever.

a
e
Remove the embroidery frame.

a Presser foot lever CAUTION


● Do not touch a button. If a button is
b twice to raise the needle.
Press (Needle position button) once or
accidentally pressed, the machine starts
a sewing, and your finger may be pricked
with the needle or the needle may break.
4

a Needle position button

c in the figure to the left side, and raise the


Press the part of the embroidery frame holder

embroidery frame.

a Press here to remove.


X The embroidery frame will separate from the
embroidery frame holder.

Attaching the Embroidery Frame 131


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting Embroidery Patterns


This section provides details on the various types of embroidery patterns available and the procedure for
selecting a pattern.

Copyright information Embroidery pattern types


The patterns saved in the sewing machine and An embroidery pattern can be selected from the
embroidery cards are intended for private use only. following types available.
Any public or commercial use of copyrighted b c
patterns is an infringement of copyright law and is
strictly prohibited.
a

a Embroidery patterns
There are total 70 patterns. The patterns are
completed by changing the upper thread
according to the instructions displayed on the
screen.
For details, refer to "Selecting an embroidery
pattern" (page 137).
b Character pattern
There are 5 types of characters: upper case/lower
case/numbers/symbols/European characters.
For details, refer to "Selecting alphabet characters"
(page 136).
c Frame patterns
10 shapes, such as squares and circles, can be
combined with 12 stitch types.
For details, refer to "Selecting a frame pattern"
(page 137).
d Embroidery card
Press when selecting patterns from an embroidery
card.
For details, refer to "Using an embroidery card"
(page 138).
e Patterns saved in the machine's memory
Press when retrieving patterns from the machine's
memory.
For details, refer to "Saving patterns" (page 150).

132
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

† Setting the display while embroidering


LCD (liquid crystal display) Press (Settings key) and then (Next
operation page key). Then, select the item by pressing
.
The LCD (liquid crystal display) is operated using the
operation keys on the display panel. NAME OF COLOR: Typical color name
The use of the keys for embroidery will be explained
below.
■ Operation keys

a When there are patterns that are not


displayed on the screen (when
or is displayed), the previous
4
patterns/subsequent patterns are
displayed. TIME: Time required for embroidering
b Returns to the previous screen.

c Returns to the type selection screen.


The selected pattern is cancelled.
d Press this key to adjust language or
change the thread color display or
other settings.

e Press to get help on embroidery unit


attachment, embroidery frame
attachment, etc.
f Press this key to save embroidery
patterns and the alphabet characters
in the machine’s memory.

Selecting Embroidery Patterns 133


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

NEEDLE COUNT: Needle progress number DISPLAY UNIT


The measurement units that are displayed can
be selected. [mm/inch]

#123: Thread color number


■ LCD button
Example: Selecting alphabet characters

When a specific pattern is selected,


press this key and then, press
to switch the display. The
sewing settings such as the specified
alphabet character string and color
Select from the following thread color number are confirmed.
sets (The display above is an example when
EMBROIDERY (POLYESTER) THREAD# is
selected.)
•EMBROIDERY (POLYESTER) THREAD#
•COUNTRY (COTTON) THREAD#
•MADEIRA POLY THREAD#
•MADEIRA RAYON THREAD#
•SULKY THREAD#
•ROBISON-ANTON POLY THREAD#

134
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Press this key to change the thread


settings.

Back one color

Forward one color

Press this key to select or cancel Back one stitch


programmed thread cutting.
Forward one stitch
Press or to change the thread
density (characters and frame • For details, refer to "Resewing" (page 147).
patterns only).
The position of the pattern within the
embroidery frame can be checked,
Press this key to adjust the pattern. and the size and angle can be
changed.
For details, refer to "Adjusting the
layout and the size" (page 143).

Press this key when you want to


change the color, character by Memo
character in character embroidery.
Since the sewing machine stops at z Keys that appear surrounded with a dotted
the end of each character, the upper line (ex. ) cannot be used.
thread is changed as you sew.
Press this key again to cancel multi- Example: Selecting an embroidery pattern
color.

Press this key to check the order of


multi color. Press to
The needle progresses one color or switch the display.
one stitch (if pressed continuously, 9
stitches to 30 stitches) at a time and
changes the position for starting the
embroidery. This is used when a
specific color is not sewn or when
restarting the sewing machine after
power has been turned off in the
middle of the operation.

Selecting Embroidery Patterns 135


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting alphabet characters


Specify the characters for embroidery.

Memo
z When "The pattern is too large for the
embroidery frame" is displayed, no more
characters can be input.
z Characters from different fonts (sans serif and
serif, etc.) cannot be combined.

a
Select the alphabet characters.

b
Select the font.

c
Enter the characters.

Memo
z If a character is pressed by mistake,
press .
z To enter a space, press "_".

† Example: Come on
Switch between uppercase/
lowercase
Switch among large/medium/small
sizes

Memo
z The characters you entered can be saved for
later use. For details, refer to "Saving
patterns" (page 150).

136
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting an embroidery
pattern
There are 70 embroidery patterns, such as flowers
and animals, saved in the machine's memory.

70 Embroidery patterns Selecting a frame pattern


10 shapes, such as squares and circles, can be
combined with 12 stitch types.
Memo
z Refer to "Embroidery Pattern Color Change Memo
Table" in the Quick reference guide for z Refer to "Frame patterns" in the Quick
samples of completed patterns and the reference guide for frame pattern shapes and
thread used. stitches.

a
Press .
a
Press .

X The pattern selection screen is displayed. X The frame shape selection screen is
displayed.
b Switch the screen using
Select the pattern.
(Previous page
b Switch the screen using
Select the frame shape.
key) and (Next page key). (Previous page
key) and (Next page key), and select
from the 10 types.

When / is pressed, the display of


patterns moves backward/forward 10 patterns.

X The stitch selection screen is displayed.

X When a pattern is selected, it can be


embroidered.

Selecting Embroidery Patterns 137


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

c Switch the screen using b card slot on the right side of the sewing
Select the stitch. Insert the embroidery card in the embroidery
(Previous page
key) and (Next page key), and select machine.
from the 12 stitches. Face the arrow on the embroidery card toward
you, and insert it in the direction of the arrow.

X When a stitch is selected, it can be


embroidered.

c
Turn on the sewing machine.
Using an embroidery card
If an embroidery card is used, you can embroider
patterns other than the patterns saved in the sewing
machine. There are various cards with different
themes.

d
Press on the screen.

Note
z Always turn off the sewing machine to insert
and remove embroidery cards. X This selection screen for the patterns saved
z Insert the embroidery card into the in the card is displayed.
embroidery card slot, facing it in the right
e The operation is the same as in "Selecting an
direction. Select a pattern.
z Do not put anything other than an
embroidery card in the embroidery card slot. embroidery pattern" (page 137).
z When embroidery cards are not in use, keep
them in their storage cases.
z Use only embroidery cards manufactured for
this machine. Using unauthorized cards may
cause your machine to operate incorrectly.
z Embroidery cards purchased in foreign
countries may not work with your machine.

a
Turn off the sewing machine.

138
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Embroidering
After the preparations are done, you can try embroidering. This section describes the steps for embroidering and
appliquéing.
„ Example: Embroidery thread number selected
Embroidering a pattern
Embroidery patterns are embroidered with a change
of thread after each color.

a on the screen.
Prepare embroidery thread of the color shown

b needle.
Set the embroidery thread, and thread the
d
e
a Embroidery frames that can be used for
4
• Refer to "Threading the upper thread" (page
embroidering
b Current color step/Number of colors in design 32).
c Current name of color
d Current color part Note
e Next color part z Before using the needle threader, be sure to
• The thread color number set displayed for the lower the presser foot.
thread colors can be changed. Press
(Setting key), and then change the setting in
c hole, and hold it lightly in your left hand.
Pass the thread through the embroidery foot
the setting screen. For details, refer to "LCD
(liquid crystal display) operation" (page 133). Give the thread a little slack.

CAUTION
● If the thread is pulled too tight, the needle
may break or bend.
● Do not let hands or objects hit the
carriage while sewing. The pattern may
misalign.

Embroidering 139
EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

d h
Lower the presser foot lever. Press (Start/stop button) again.
X The embroidery begins again.
X Stitching stops automatically with reinforce-
ment after one color has been completed.
When automatic thread cutting is set, the
thread is cut.

i and repeat steps


Set up embroidery thread for the next color,
b through h.
a
a Presser foot lever
X When the last color is sewn, "Finished
sewing." will appear on the display. Press
e
Press (Start/stop button).
, and the display will return to the
initial screen.

j
Cut the excess thread.

Memo
a z For the automatic cutting setting, refer to
a Start/stop button "LCD (liquid crystal display) operation"
(page 135).
CAUTION
● Use the embroidery frame that matches
the size of the pattern being embroidered.
Otherwise, the embroidery frame may be
hit by the presser foot and cause injury or
needle breakage.

f (Start/stop button) to stop the machine.


After progressing 5-6 stitches, press

g of the stitching.
Use scissors to cut the thread at the beginning

Cut the thread at the edge of the stitching.

Note
z If the thread is left at the beginning of the
stitching, it may be sewn over as you
continue embroidering the pattern, making it
very difficult to deal with the thread after the
pattern is finished. Trim the thread at the
beginning.

140
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d and cut it out along the cut-out line.


Remove the fabric from the embroidery frame,
Appliquéing
Cut carefully along the stitching and remove
Prepare the base fabric and the appliqué fabric the thread.
(appliqué piece). Press (Settings key), and set
the thread color display to NAME OF COLOR, so
"APPLIQUE MATERIAL", "APPLIQUE POSITION" and
"APPLIQUE" are displayed on the screen.

a
Select an appliqué pattern.

• If it is not cut right on the stitching, it will not


be finished neatly.

e frame.
Stretch the base fabric on the embroidery

f
X "APPLIQUE MATERIAL" is displayed on the Set up the thread for appliquéing.
screen.

g
Lower the presser foot lever, and press
b appliqué piece fabric, and stretch it on the
Apply iron-on stabilizer to the back of the
(Start/stop button).
embroidery frame.
4

X The position for the appliqué is stitched, and


the sewing machine stops. "APPLIQUE" will
c (Start/stop button).
Lower the presser foot lever, and press be displayed on the screen.

X The cut-out for the appliqué piece is sewn,


and the sewing machine stops.

a
b
a Appliqué position
b Base fabric
b
a Cut-out line
b Appliqué piece fabric
X "APPLIQUE POSITION" will be displayed on
the screen.

Embroidering 141
EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

h adhesive to the back of the appliqué piece, and


Apply a thin layer of fabric glue or spray

attach it in the appliqué position.

i
Lower the presser foot lever, and press
(Start/stop button).

X The position for the appliqué is stitched, and


the sewing machine stops.

Memo
z When "APPLIQUE MATERIAL", "APPLIQUE
POSITION" and "APPLIQUE" are displayed,
a specific color thread does not appear. Use
a proper color thread to match the appliqué
piece.

j change thread colors as you sew.


Follow the instructions on the screen, and

142
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Editing and Saving Patterns


This section describes ways to edit, adjust, reposition and memorize patterns.

c
Check and adjust the layout.
Adjusting the layout
and the size

The pattern is normally positioned in the center of the


embroidery frame. You can check the layout before
starting embroidery and change the position and the
size.

Memo
z Keys that appear surrounded with a dotted
a Layout within the frame
line (ex. ) cannot be used. b Display unit (cm/INCH)
c Available embroidery frames
d Change position keys

a
After selecting the embroidery pattern, press e Size key/Layout key
. f
g
Rotation key
Horizontal mirror image key 4
h Trial key
X The sewing screen is displayed.
i Starting point key
j Distance from the center
k Embroidery size

Embroidery frame size


The size of embroidery frame that
can be used is displayed. When
the smaller mark is grayed out in
the display, embroidery frame
(small) cannot be used. These
icons flash if the pattern was
b
Press .
resized, the layout was adjusted,
or the recommended embroidery
frame size was changed.

CAUTION
● Use the embroidery frame that matches
the size of the pattern being embroidered.
X The layout LCD is displayed.
Otherwise, the embroidery frame may be
hit by the presser foot and cause injury or
needle breakage.

Editing and Saving Patterns 143


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Size key Rotates the pattern 90 degrees to the


Increases/decreases the size of left
the pattern. Press to return Rotates the pattern 90 degrees to the
to the previous screen. right

Rotates the pattern 10 degrees to the


left

Rotates the pattern 10 degrees to the


right

Rotates the pattern 1 degree to the left

Decreases size
Rotates the pattern 1degree to the
Returns to original size. When right
the pattern was moved with the
change position keys, it returns to Returns the pattern to its original
its original position. position
Increases size

Change position keys Memo


Moves the embroidery position up, down, zWhen the pattern is larger than 10cm (4
left and right. inches) x 10cm (4 inches), there may be a
case that the pattern cannot be rotated.

Memo Horizontal mirror image key


z If you change the size of the pattern or Mirrors the pattern left and right.
reverse it, the embroidery which have been
moved will return to its initial position. Use
the Change position keys after you have Memo
changed the size of the pattern or reversed it. z Mirroring patterns is possible only for a
z You can save patterns you have changed the embroidery pattern or a frame pattern.
size and position in the machine’s memory.
Starting point stitching key
Refer to "Saving patterns" (page 150).
Switches the stitching starting
point between center and lower
Layout key left of the design.
Press this key to move to rotation
screen.
•Press to return to the previous
screen.

Trial key
Moves the frame to check the
pattern position.

Rotation key
Rotates the pattern 1 degree, 10
degrees or 90 degrees at a time.
Press (Back key) to return
to the previous screen.

144
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

CAUTION Memo
z If the stitches appear loose, turn the tension
● Never lower the needle when the up one notch and resew.
embroidery frame is moving. The needle
may break or bend. ■ Correct thread tension
● When you have revised the pattern, check The thread tension is correct when upper thread is
the display of available embroidery just visible on back of the fabric.
frames and use an appropriate frame. If
you use an embroidery frame not
displayed as available for use, the presser
a b
foot may strike the frame and possibly a Right side of fabric
cause injury. b Wrong side of fabric
■ Upper thread is too tight

d previous screen.
Press (Back key) to return to the The lower thread will be visible on the front of the
fabric. In this instance, decrease the upper thread
tension.

a b
a Right side of fabric

Memo
b Wrong side of fabric 4
■ Upper thread is too loose
z When the power is turned off, the layout
The upper thread has slack. In this instance,
returns to the original setting. increase the upper thread tension.
z You can also check the pattern size and
distance from the center by pressing
after beginning embroidering.
z The embroidery patterns you have edited or a b
adjusted can be saved in the sewing a Right side of fabric
machine’s memory. For details, refer to b Wrong side of fabric
"Saving patterns" (page 150).
Note
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
Adjusting the thread tension may not be possible to set the correct thread
tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
If embroidery fails, it is difficult to undo the thread be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
and the fabric may be damaged. insert the bobbin correctly.
Before embroidering, use a scrap of the same fabric z If the tension dial is set extremely low, the
to check the adjustment of the thread tension, etc. machine may stop stitching during sewing.
This is not a sign that anything's broken.
The upper thread tension is changed using the thread Simply increase the tension slightly to
tension dial. continue sewing.
When doing machine embroidery, the tension dial
should be set somewhere between 2 to 6.

a b

c
a Loose (Decrease thread tension)
b Tight (Increase thread tension)
c Upper thread tension dial

Editing and Saving Patterns 145


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

f
Press to turn it to .
Connecting character patterns
If the character pattern is too long to fit in the
embroidery frame, follow the steps below.

Example: Connecting "ABC" with "DEF"

a
Enter "ABC" and press . X The stitching starting point is set to lower left
of the design.

g
Lower the presser foot, and then press
(Start/stop switch) to begin sewing.

h leaving the end of the thread longer than


When embroidering is finished, trim the thread

usual. Then reset the fabric in the embroidery


b
Press to turn off the automatic thread frame, in a position where you can sew "DEF".
cutting ( ).

a b
a Embroidery start position
b Embroidery end position

c
Press (Back key).

i
Enter "DEF" and press .

d
Press .
j
Press .

e
Press .
k
Press to turn it to .

X The stitching starting point is set to lower left


of the design.

146
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Resewing
l the needle to the embroidery end position of
Use (change position keys) to move
When the wrong upper thread color has been sewn,
"ABC".
it can be resewn with the correct color.

a sewing machine.
Press (Start/stop button) to stop the

b
Press .

a
a Embroidery end position

m
Lower the presser foot, and then press
(Start/Stop button) to embroider "DEF".

c
Press .

4
n thread.
When you have finished embroidering, cut the

d beginning of the mistaken color. Press


Press (Back one color) to return to the

one more time to go to previous color.

e
Set up the correct color for the upper thread.

f design.
Press (Start/stop button) to continue the

Editing and Saving Patterns 147


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Thread runs out partway Stopping while embroidering


through a design
If the embroidery is stopped before it is complete,
When the upper thread or the bobbin thread runs out check the current needle count and layout before
while sewing, the sewing machine stops. Move the turning off the sewing machine.
needle back about 10 stitches and resume sewing.
Memo
Memo z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
z When the bobbin thread runs out, cut the embroidery size and layout return to the
threads and remove the embroidery frame original setting. If you have changed the
before replacing the bobbin thread. layout, you need to adjust it again.

a
Set up the upper or bobbin thread.

a sewing machine.
Press (Start/stop button) to stop the

b
Press .

b and make a note of it.


Check the current needle count on the screen

Memo
z If the needle count is not displayed, display
the needle count on the screen. For details,
If the needle count is not displayed, press
refer to "Stopping while embroidering" (page
148). (Settings key), and then use to
display the following screen.
c
Press .
Press to return to the previous screen.

d needle back about 10 stitches.


Press (Back one stitch) to move the

(Forward one stitch) increases the stitch


number.

c
Press (Embroidery key).

e
Restart the embroidery.

X The confirmation message is displayed.

148
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d h
Press . Press .

X The selected pattern is turned off, and it


i the beginning of the color you want to
Press (Forward one color) to move to
returns to the initial embroidery screen.
embroider.
e
Turn off the sewing machine.

Note
j the needle count.
Press (Forward one stitch) to increase
z Always detach the embroidery unit when
you move the sewing machine. If is pressed continuously, it moves
forward 1 —> 9 —>30 stitches.
4
f the pattern.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select

Memo
z If you have changed the embroidery size
and/or layout before turning off the machine,
make the same setting changes again before
restarting embroidering. For details, refer to Move forward to about 10 stitches before the
"Adjusting the layout and the size" (page total number of stitches confirmed in b.
143).

g
Press .

k
Restart the embroidery.

Editing and Saving Patterns 149


EMBROIDERY —————————————————————————————————————————————

Select the pattern you wish to retrieve.


Saving patterns b Switch screens using (Previous page key)
and (Next page key).
The embroidery patterns and the alphabet characters
you have customized can be saved in the sewing a
machine's memory.
Since the saved patterns will not be erased when the
power is turned off, you can always retrieve them for
embroidery. This is convenient for saving names and
the like. You can save up to 12 patterns or 512KB of
data.
b
■ Saving a pattern
a Total amount of memory used/Total amount of
After selecting the pattern to be saved, press
a (Memory key).
memory space
b Number of the currently displayed page from the
total number of pages
X The selected pattern is shown in reverse
highlighting.

Press .
c To delete the saved pattern, press .

X "Saving..." appears while the pattern is being


saved. After the pattern is saved, the initial
screen appears again.

Note
z Do not turn off the sewing machine while
the pattern is being saved, otherwise the X The saved pattern is retrieved.
pattern data may be lost.
X The sewing screen appears, and you can
embroider the retrieved pattern.
■ Retrieving a pattern

Press (Retrieve key).


a

X The saved patterns are displayed.

150
5 APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.

Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................152

Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................154

Index .....................................................................................................................165
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Care and Maintenance


Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

d remove the presser foot holder(page 45), and


Loosen the presser foot holder screw and
Cleaning the machine surface
then loosen the needle clamp screw and
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a remove the needle (page 41).
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and c
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a damp cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth. a

CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine. Otherwise, injuries b
or an electric shock may occur.
a Presser foot holder
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw

Cleaning the race


e then slide it toward you.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case. Therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.

a
Turn off the sewing machine.

a Needle plate cover


X The needle plate cover is removed.

b supply jack on the right side of the sewing


Unplug the power supply cord from the power
f Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
Remove the bobbin case.
machine.

CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine. Otherwise, injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
a

a Bobbin case
c embroidery unit if either is attached.
Remove the flat bed attachment or the

152
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

g remove any lint and dust from the race and i the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into

bobbin thread sensor and their surrounding on.


area.

a
c b a

a Needle plate cover


a Cleaning brush
b Race
c Bobbin thread sensor
CAUTION
Note
z Do not apply oil to the bobbin case. ● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched.
z If lint or dust collects on the bobbin thread Otherwise, the upper thread may become
sensor, the sensor may not operate correctly. tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
h on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
Insert the bobbin case so that the projection bobbin case (part code: XC3152-221
(green marking)), contact your nearest
authorized service center.
● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.

a
5
b

a Bobbin case
b Projection
c Spring

Memo
z Move the bobbin case right and left to make
sure that the right side of the projection
touches the spring and there is a space on
the left side of the projection.

Care and Maintenance 153


APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers
the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com].
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference


The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17

The start/stop button was not Press the start/stop button. page 51
pressed.

The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. page 50
The sewing
machine does not Do not use the start/stop button when
The start/stop button was pressed,
operate. the foot controller is connected. To
even though the foot controller is page 51
use the start/stop button, disconnect
connected. the foot controller.

The bobbin winder shaft is on the Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the
right side after winding the left. page 26
bobbin.

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten


The needle clamp screw is loose. page 41
the screw.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.

Select a thread and needle that are


The combination of fabric, thread appropriate for the type of fabric page 39
and needle is not correct. being sewn.

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch appropriate for the type of stitch that page 70
that you wish to sew. you wish to sew.

The upper thread tension is too Loosen the upper thread tension. page 59
tight.

The needle breaks. The fabric is pulled too much. Lightly guide the fabric. -

The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 31

The area around the hole in the Replace the needle plate. Contact
needle plate is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest authorized -
burr on it. service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot. Contact
presser foot is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest authorized -
burr on it. service center.

Replace the bobbin case. Contact


The bobbin case is scratched, or your dealer or the nearest authorized -
has a burr on it. service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work


A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

154
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference


The upper thread was not Correct the upper threading.
The needle breaks. page 32
threaded correctly.

The upper thread was not


threaded correctly (for example,
the spool is not installed correctly, Correct the upper threading.
the spool cap is too big for the Use the spool cap that best fits the page 31
spool being used, or the thread size of the spool being used.
has come out of the needle bar
thread guide.)

There are knots or tangles in the Remove any knots or tangles. -


thread.

The selected needle is not Select a needle that is appropriate for


appropriate for the thread being page 39
the type of thread being used.
used.

The upper thread tension is too Loosen the upper thread tension. page 59
tight.

The upper thread Remove the tangled thread. If the


The thread is tangled, for example,
breaks. thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 152
in the bobbin case. clean the race.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.


page 41
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot.
presser foot is scratched, or has a Contact your dealer or the nearest -
burr on it. authorized service center.
5
Replace the bobbin case.
The bobbin case is scratched, or Contact your dealer or the nearest -
has a burr on it. authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work


A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The thread is not passed through Correctly pass the thread through the
the bobbin-winding thread guide page 24
bobbin-winding thread guide.
correctly.
Bobbin thread Move the sewing speed controller to
does not wind Bobbin spins slowly. the right (so that the speed will be page 25
neatly on the fast).
bobbin.
The thread that was pulled out Wind the thread that was pulled off
was not wound onto the bobbin around the bobbin five or six times page 25
correctly. clockwise.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 27
installed.

The lower thread is The bobbin is scratched or does


not rotate smoothly, or has a burr Replace the bobbin. -
tangled or breaks. on it.

Remove the tangled thread and clean


The thread is tangled. page 152
the race.

Troubleshooting 155
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference


Incorrect bobbins will not work
The lower thread is A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 22
tangled or breaks. this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The thread is
tangled on the The upper thread was not Correct the upper threading. page 32
wrong side of the threaded correctly.
fabric.

Correct the upper threading.


Make sure that the thread is hanged page 32,
The upper thread was not on the thread guide spring which is
threaded correctly. page 33
on the left side of the thread guide
cover.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 27
installed.

Select a thread and needle that are


The combination of fabric, thread appropriate for the type of fabric page 39
The thread tension and needle is not correct. being sewn.
is incorrect.
The presser foot holder is Correctly install the presser foot page 45
incorrectly installed. holder.

Adjust the tension of the upper


The thread tension is incorrect. page 59
thread.

Incorrect bobbins will not work


A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The upper thread is The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 27
too tight. installed.

The upper thread was not page 22,


Correctly thread the upper thread and
threaded correctly, or the bobbin correctly install the bobbin thread. page 31
is incorrectly installed.

The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 31

Select a thread and needle that are


The combination of fabric, thread appropriate for the type of fabric page 39
The fabric is and needle is not correct. being sewn.
wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 41

If thin fabrics are being sewn, the Shorten the stitch length or sew with page 59,
stitch is too coarse. stabilizer material under the fabric. page 66

Adjust the tension of the upper


The thread tension is incorrect. page 59
thread.

The upper thread was not Correct the upper threading. page 32
threaded correctly.

Stitches are Select a thread and needle that are


The combination of fabric, thread
skipped. appropriate for the type of fabric page 39
and needle is not correct. being sewn.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 41

156
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference


The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 41
Stitches are
skipped. Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover and page 152
needle plate or in the bobbin case. clean the race.

Dust has accumulated in the feed Clean the race. page 152
dogs or in the bobbin case.

The upper thread was not Correct the upper threading. page 32
threaded correctly.
A high-pitched
noise is made Replace the bobbin case.
The bobbin case is scratched, or
while sewing. Contact your dealer or the nearest -
has a burr on it. authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work


A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The thread does The needle has not been raised to Press the needle position button. page 32
not pass through the correct position.
the eye of the
needle. The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 41

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch appropriate for the type of stitch that page 70
that you wish to sew. you wish to sew.

The stitch is not Adjust the tension of the upper


The thread tension is incorrect. page 59
sewn correctly. thread.

The thread is tangled, for example, Remove the tangle thread. If the 5
thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 152
in the bobbin case. clean the race.

The feed dogs are lowered. Slide the drop feed lever to the right. page 102

The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 59

The fabric does not The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
feed. appropriate for the type of stitch appropriate for the type of stitch that page 70
that you wish to sew. you wish to sew.

Remove the tangled thread. If the


The thread is tangled, for example, thread is tangled in the bobbin case, page 152
in the bobbin case. clean the race.

The fabric feeds in Contact your dealer or the nearest


the opposite The feed mechanism is damaged. -
authorized service center.
direction.

The needle
threader lever does The needle has not been raised to Press the needle position button. page 32
not lower to the the correct position.
correct position.

Contact your dealer or the nearest


The sewing lamp is damaged. -
The sewing lamp authorized service center.
does not come on.
The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17

Nothing appears in The brightness of the LCD is either Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 163
the LCD. too light or too dark.

Troubleshooting 157
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference


Machine does not
operate when The embroidery unit is not Attach the embroidery unit. page 123
embroidery key is attached.
pressed.

No pattern selected. Select a pattern. page 132


Embroidery unit
does not move. The embroidery unit is not set up Set the embroidery unit up correctly. page 123
correctly.

The fabric is not fully stretched on Stretch the fabric properly on the
the embroidery frame. The fabric page 127
embroidery frame.
is loose.

Always use stabilizer material for


No stabilizer material is attached. page 126
embroidery.

Remove the tangled thread. When


The thread is tangled and the the bobbin case is plugged up, clean page 152
bobbin case, etc., is plugged up. the race.

Adjust the tension of the upper


The thread tension is incorrect. page 145
thread.

Correct the upper threading.


Make sure that the thread is hanged
The upper thread was not page 32,
on the thread guide spring which is
threaded correctly. page 33
on the left side of the thread guide
cover.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin thread.


page 27
installed.

If the embroidery unit carriage or


Embroidery not embroidery frame bumps into
neatly done. Objects are placed near the objects, the pattern will be
page 124
carriage or embroidery frame. misaligned. Do not place objects
within the range of embroidery frame
motion.

Stretch the fabric on the frame once


Material coming out of the again so that the material coming out
embroidery frame is causing of the embroidery frame does not -
problems. cause problems, rotate the pattern
and embroider.

If embroidery is done with the fabric


A heavy fabric is being hanging off the table, the embroidery
embroidered, and the fabric is unit movement will be impaired. -
hanging off the table. Support the fabric while
embroidering.

The fabric is catching. It is Stop the sewing machine and set the -
pinched. fabric up correctly.

If the carriage is moved during the


The carriage was moved while the
process, the pattern may be
embroidery frame was being
misaligned. Be careful when -
removed or attached during
removing or attaching the
embroidery.
embroidery frame.

158
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Error messages
When erroneous operations are performed messages and advice on operation will be displayed on the
LCD. Follow what is displayed. If you press or do the operation correctly while the error
message is displayed, the message disappears.

No Error Message Probable Cause

1 There is a possibility that the data for the selected pattern is corrupted.

Either the start/stop button or the reverse/reinforcement stitch button


2 was pushed at a LCD screen other than the sewing LCD screen.

The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the foot controller
when the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the sewing speed
3 controller is set to "ON" .
You have selected a pattern for which the stitch width control cannot
be used. (page 58)

4
The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn
with the twin needle is selected. 5

Upper thread broken.


Upper thread not set up correctly.
Upper thread has run out.
5 CAUTION
Be sure to rethread the machine. If you press (Start/stop button)
without rethreading the machine, the thread tension may be wrong or
the needle may break and cause injury.

The machine is deleting a previously saved pattern while in embroidery


6
edit mode.

The start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was
7 connected.
You tried to use the foot controller for embroidery.

Troubleshooting 159
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

No Error Message Probable Cause

8 on the LCD was pressed when no card was inserted.

A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was
9 selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole
lever is lowered.

The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/
10 stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.

The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button or thread


11 cutter button was pressed while the presser foot was raised.

12 The memory is full and the pattern cannot be saved.

You pressed the back key or the embroidery key when a pattern was
13 selected or the utility stitch key when a stitch is selected.

You changed the stitch pattern settings, and then tried to save them by
14 pressing the manual memory key.

You tried to select an embroidery pattern or change the layout when


the needle was down.
15 The machine is turned on while the needle is lowered and the
embroidery unit is attached.

You tried to initialize the embroidery unit with the embroidery foot
16 lowered.

160
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

No Error Message Probable Cause

The start/stop button was pressed after selecting a pattern which is


17
saved in the machine’s memory without pressing (Retrieve key).

The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position button or


18 thread cutter button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right.

19 A pattern is being saved.

The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed


20 when no pattern is selected.

Bobbin thread has run out.


21 Little bobbin thread remains.

5
22 When the embroidery unit is attached.

23 You tried to set a number of characters that will not fit within the frame.

The upper thread has become tangled around the bobbin case, and the
24 needle is bent and hitting the needle plate, etc., so the sewing machine
stops (refer to page 154).

You tried to use a function that cannot be used when the embroidery
25 unit is attached.

Troubleshooting 161
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

No Error Message Probable Cause


An Embroidery Memory Card that may not compatible with your
machine has been inserted.
• Certain licensed designs cannot be read by this machine.
26 • Designs in an unacceptable card format cannot be read by this
machine.
• Design data saved in a hoop size not compatible with your machine
has been selected.

27 You try to retrieve a pattern downloaded as one for a different machine.

The start/stop button, the embroidery key, or the memory key is pressed
in embroidery mode, but the embroidery unit is not attached.
28
The embroidery key was pressed when the embroidery unit is not
attached.

29 The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.

162
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Adjusting the LCD Operation beep


If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If
machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is an incorrect operation is performed you will hear two
either too light or too dark. In such a case, perform or four beeps.
the following operation.
■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps sound.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and
the machine automatically stops.
b operation panel keys except
Turn the power on while pressing any of the Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
(Setting correct it before continuing to sew.
key).
■ Canceling the operation beep
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set
to beep each time an operation panel key is
pressed. This setting can be changed so that the
machine does not beep.

Turn on the sewing machine.


a

5
c
Press or .

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Setting key) in the operation


b panel.

d again.
Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on

X The setting screen appears.

Press (Next page key) twice.


c

Troubleshooting 163
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Press OFF for the buzzer.


d

X The screen for changing the beep setting


appears.

Press (Back key).


e

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

164
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Index

A D
accessories ................................................................. 8, 9 darning .......................................................................106
adjusting layout ..........................................................143 darning stitch ..............................................................103
adjusting stitch length ...................................................59 drop feed lever ..............................................................11
adjusting stitch width ....................................................57
adjusting thread tension ....................................... 59, 145 E
air vent .........................................................................11
appliqué .......................................................................97 elastic tape ....................................................................95
appliqué pattern selection ...........................................141 embroidering ..................................................... 118, 139
appliqué stitch ..............................................................97 embroidering pattern ..................................................139
attaching presser foot holder .........................................45 embroidering steps ......................................................119
attaching stabilizer material ........................................126 embroidery bobbin thread ..............................................9
attributes .......................................................................19 embroidery card .........................................................138
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitches .......................61 embroidery card slot .............................................11, 138
automatic thread cutting ...............................................62 embroidery character selection ...................................136
embroidery foot installation ........................................120
B embroidery foot removal .............................................122
embroidery frame .......................................................127
back key .......................................................................13 embroidery frame installation .....................................130
bar tack stitch .............................................................103 embroidery frame removal ..........................................131
basic sewing .................................................................48 embroidery key .............................................................13
basting stitch .................................................................78 embroidery pattern selection .......................................132
beep ...........................................................................163 embroidery pattern types ............................................132
blind hem stitch ............................................................80 embroidery sets ...............................................................9
bobbin ..........................................................................22 embroidery sheet ........................................................128
bobbin case removal ...................................................152 embroidery threads .....................................................118
bobbin clip .....................................................................9
bobbin cover ................................................................11
embroidery unit connector slot .....................................10
embroidery unit installation ........................................123 5
bobbin installation ........................................................27 embroidery unit removal .............................................125
bobbin thread, pulling up .............................................29 error messages ............................................................159
bobbin winder ..............................................................10 even seam allowance ....................................................67
Bobbin winder seat .......................................................26 extra spool pin ..........................................................9, 36
bobbin winding ............................................................22 eyelet punch .....................................................9, 86, 108
bobbin-winding thread guide ................................. 10, 24 eyelet stitching ............................................................108
button sewing ...............................................................88
buttonhole lever ............................................................11 F
buttonhole sewing ........................................................84
buttonhole stitching ......................................................83 fabric positioning ..........................................................50
buzzer ........................................................................163 fagoting .......................................................................110
fagoting stitch .............................................................109
C feed dogs ......................................................................11
flat bed attachment .......................................................10
care ............................................................................152 foot controller .......................................................... 9, 52
changing sewing direction ............................................65 foot controller jack ........................................................11
checking needle ............................................................40 frame pattern selection ................................................137
cleaning bobbin case ..................................................152 fraying, preventing ........................................................74
cleaning brush ................................................................9 free-arm sewing ............................................................46
cleaning machine surface ...........................................152 free-motion quilting ....................................................102
concealed seams ...........................................................90 front view .....................................................................10
connecting character patterns .....................................146
country thread ......................................................19, 134 G
crazy quilt stitching .......................................................99
cuffs ..............................................................................46 general sewing procedures ............................................48
curve sewing .................................................................65
cutting thread ................................................................55 H
cutting thread automatically ..........................................62
cylindrical pieces ..........................................................46 handle ..........................................................................11

Index 165
APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

handwheel ....................................................................11 pattern embroidery .....................................................139


heirloom stitching .......................................................114 pattern retrieving .........................................................150
help key ........................................................................13 piecing ..........................................................................99
hook-and-loop fastener .................................................66 piecing straight stitch ....................................................97
plug ..............................................................................17
I positioning fabric ..........................................................50
power supply cord ........................................................17
installing bobbin ...........................................................27 power supply jack ...................................................11, 17
power switch ..........................................................11, 17
J preparations for embroidering .....................................118
presser foot ...................................................................11
joining ........................................................................114 presser foot holder ..................................................11, 45
joining stitch ........................................................ 97, 109 presser foot holder installation ......................................45
presser foot holder removal ...........................................45
L presser foot lever ...........................................................10
presser foot replacement ...............................................43
layout adjustment .......................................................143 previous page key .........................................................13
LCD ..................................................................... 18, 133 pulling up bobbin thread ..............................................29
LCD button .................................................................134
LCD messages .............................................................159 Q
LCD operation ..............................................................18
quick reference guide .....................................................9
M quilting .......................................................................100
quilting guide ..............................................................101
machine surface cleaning ...........................................152 quilting stippling ...........................................................97
main power switch .......................................................11 quilting stitch ................................................................97
maintenance ...............................................................152
manual needle threading ..............................................36 R
memory key ..................................................................13
mirroring stitches ..........................................................63 race ............................................................................152
reinforcement stitching ........................................ 53, 103
N release button .............................................................125
removing presser foot holder .........................................45
needle bar thread guide ................................................11 replacing needle ...........................................................41
needle condition ...........................................................40 replacing presser foot ....................................................43
needle plate ..................................................................11 resewing .....................................................................147
needle plate cover ........................................................11 retrieving pattern .........................................................150
needle plate marking ....................................................67 reverse stitching ............................................................53
needle position button ..................................................12 reverse/reinforcement stitch button ........................ 12, 54
needle position, changing .............................................79 reverse/reinforcement stitches, automatic ......................61
needle replacement ......................................................41
needle set .......................................................................9 S
needle threader lever ....................................................10
needle threading ...........................................................31 safety instructions ...........................................................1
needles .........................................................................39 saving patterns ............................................................150
next page key ................................................................13 scallop stitch ...............................................................109
scallop stitching ..........................................................111
O screwdriver .....................................................................9
seam allowance, even ...................................................67
operation beep ............................................................163 seam ripper .....................................................................9
operation buttons ................................................... 10, 12 securing stitching ..........................................................53
operation keys ..............................................................13 selecting alphabet characters ......................................136
operation panel ...................................................... 10, 13 selecting embroidery patterns .....................................132
operation problems .....................................................154 selecting stitches ...........................................................49
operations .....................................................................21 selecting the needle ......................................................39
optional accessories ........................................................9 settings key ...................................................................13
overcasting stitches .......................................................74 sewing basics ................................................................48
sewing direction change ...............................................65
P sewing machine help key ..............................................13
sewing speed controller ................................................12
pant legs .......................................................................46 shell tuck stitch ...........................................................113
parallel stitches .............................................................36 side cutter .....................................................................76
patchwork .....................................................................99 smocking ....................................................................112

166
————————————————————————————————————————————————————

smocking stitch ...........................................................109 zipper sewing ...............................................................90


solving operation problems .........................................154
spool cap ............................................................9, 23, 32
spool net ...................................................................9, 24
spool of thread ..............................................................31
stabilizer material .......................................................126
start/stop button ............................................................12
stippling ........................................................................97
stitch length adjustment ................................................59
stitch selection ..............................................................49
stitch settings ................................................................70
stitch width adjustment .................................................57
stopping embroidering ................................................148
straight stitch ................................................... 70, 78, 90
stretch fabrics ................................................................95
stretch stitch ..................................................................95

T
thick fabrics ..................................................................65
thin fabrics ....................................................................66
thread cutter .................................................................10
thread cutter button ............................................... 12, 55
thread cutting ................................................................55
thread cutting, automatic ..............................................62
thread guide .....................................................10, 24, 33
thread guide cover ........................................... 10, 24, 33
thread guide disk ................................................... 11, 34
thread spools ................................................................31
thread take-up lever ................................................10, 34
thread tension adjustment ................................... 59, 145
threading ......................................................................31
threading bobbin ..........................................................22
threading needle ...........................................................31
5
threading needle manually ............................................36
tips ................................................................................65
touch panel ...................................................................13
trial sewing ...................................................................65
triple stretch stitch ......................................... 78, 95, 103
troubleshooting ...........................................................154
turning machine on/off ..................................................16
twin needle .....................................................................9
twin needle sewing .......................................................36

U
upper thread .................................................................31
upper thread spool ........................................................31
upper thread tension ............................................ 59, 145
Upper Threading ...........................................................31
utility stitch key .............................................................13
utility stitch selection screen .........................................18
utility stitches ................................................................70

W
winding bobbin ............................................................22
wing needle ................................................................114

Z
zigzag stitches ................................................. 75, 95, 97
zigzag width adjustment ...............................................57

Index 167
English
XE3116-201c
Printed in China

You might also like