Instruction Manual

Rules for safety

• Always sail with a friend!
• Always stay with your board! It floats, your rig does not!
• Always let someone know where you are intending to sail and what time you plan
to return.
• Wear appropriate attire for the conditions: wetsuit, drysuit, lifejacket, sunscreen,
lycras, helmet etc.
• Inspect your rig and board for worn lines, loose screws or nuts, stress marks in fins,
boards, masts and booms.
• Be aware of potential weather patterns, water conditions, tides, currents, and where
you might end up if something goes wrong.
• Use correct equipment for the conditions.
• Know your limits. When in doubt, don’t go out!
• Take appropriate action before rescue is all that is left.
• Remember:
• Stay calm.
• Use your head.
• Conserve your energy.

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Signalling for help
• International distress signal
• Wave your arms up and down at your sides, shoulders to waist.
• Do not touch hands above your head unless you are fine. That is the sign for
“Okay”.
• Blowing a whistle means you need help.
• Flare or strobe usually means extreme emergency

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Signalling that you are okay
• Calmly touch your hand, or both hands, on top of your head. This is the sign for
“Are you okay?” and the response “I'm okay.”

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Self-rescue without assistance
• Paddle:
• Light wind, flat water, any direction: Lay the rig on the tail of the board, keep the
sail out of the water; mast into the wind, lay flat on the board with feet on sail for
balance. Paddle to safety.
• Drift:
• Light to medium wind (when safety is downwind): Lay the rig on the nose of the
board out of the water. Sit on the board with feet on the sail; let the wind do all
the work.
• Drag:
• Light to medium wind with chop: stand on board, uphaul, point board to safety,
let clew of sail stay immersed and wind will push you forward, keep knees bent
and back straight.
• Heavy wind and chop: point board to safety – hold sail in water start position
(flying rig) keep body in water, steer board as if sailing or butt sailing.
• De-rig: (abandon rig only if necessary)
• Sit on the board and release downhaul tension, keep the sail low in the water, and
remove battens, place in mast sleeve, release outhaul and inhaul.
• Put boom around your waist or tie it to the footstrap, roll sail on mast and re-tie
boom with outhaul (use harness lines or excess outhaul to tie mast to board –
leave connected at the universal if possible).
• If forward progress is not being made – abandon rig to reduce drag and paddle
board to safety.
• Note: When you are in extreme offshore wind do not de-rig. Use the sail to
create drag–slowing progress out to sea–and signal for help.
• Don't panic
• Stay with your board
• Conserve your energy
• Relax

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Wind clock

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Normal sailing right-of-way rules
• Downed sailor has right-of-way over sailor underway.
• Starboard (right hand forward) sailor has right-of-way over port (left hand forward)
sailor.
• Leeward sailor has right-of-way over windward sailor.
• Note: Windward starboard sailor has right-of-way over leeward port sailor.
• If heading in the same direction, sailor being overtaken has right-of-way over
overtaking sailor.
• Courtesy rule: Give plenty of room to novice sailors!

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Bad habits of windsurfing

Bad habit #1:

Moving both arms together. Pulling in with both arms on the boom is common when
attempting to save your balance – but – it does not change the sail’s power.
Cure: Always move your arms independently.

Bad habit #2:

Bringing your hips in over
the board to balance yourself
when falling backwards
requires more power from
the sail.
Cure: Drop low and push
hips away from board. Keep
your head in over the
centerline.

Bad habit #3:

Releasing the backhand to
de-power the sail and
grabbing the uphaul or mast
for leverage against the weight of the rig (this brings the head down and butt out)
Cure: Try the tennis save: Release the backhand and swing it upwind. Drive hips inward,
twisting them towards the tail. Unwind to gain leverage.

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Beach etiquette

Carrying your equipment

Carry your board and rig separately, unless you are sure you can control both in the wind.
Take board to water first when launching: take sail to safe area out of wind first when
finished.

Rig separately:

Keep your body between the wind and the sail, with the sail's mast side (not clew side)
into and across the wind – one hand halfway down the boom, the other on the mast
toward the head of the sail. Keep the sail at waist height.

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Rig separately overhead:

Hold the mast above the boom. Place the sail on your head, with your head above the
boom, the mast into and across the wind, with the other hand holding the boom.

Board separately: Keep your body between the wind and the board, with the board's
windward rail closest to your body.

Board and rig together:

Keep your body between the wind and the sail. Hold the boom near the harness line,
keeping the sail behind you while holding the board by a foot strap in front of you.

Protect your fin: It only takes one ding to ruin a fin. Fin covers are strongly
recommended.

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Storing your equipment
• Make sure your rig is secured. Place board over base of rig. Clew downwind.
• Don’t leave rigged sails out in the sun for prolonged periods of time. Masts have
been known to snap in the heat, especially with dark luff sleeves.
• Open vent plugs when flying, driving through altitude changes, or storing the board
for a long period of time (especially if left exposed to any heat source, e.g., the sun).

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Rigging lecture

Where to rig
• Out of the path of foot traffic.

• Away from sharp objects.

• Ideally, in an area protected from the direct line of the wind.

Rigging steps
• Insert and tension foot batten and insert mast.

• Downhaul lightly.
• Outhaul so the sail is flat. Run outhaul line through grommet twice only making
sure that the lines don’t cross.
• Downhaul completely.
• Release outhaul for proper draft.

Mast and extension:

• Having the correct length mast is important to the performance of the sail

• Carbon content is important when considering which mast to purchase. Higher

carbon content equals less swing weight in sail and better control through gust and
lulls.
• When sliding mast down sleeve, try to slide through the inducers and have them
rotated up. Some sleeves don’t allow room for this. If not, cambers are most easily
placed on the mast after outhauling.
• Adjust for extension according to specification on sail; however, it may need to be
adjusted later.
• When threading downhaul line through bottom of sail and the extension’s rollers
make sure the lines do not cross or bind on each other. This minimizes friction and
wear.

Rotating asymmetrical foil (RAF) sails

• These are considered the norm for non-cambered sails.

• Make sure the top batten in the sail is pulled tightly away from the mast so that the
top of the sail is flat. This is important when rigging old sails that don’t show the
following 2 conditions.
• Downhaul until the tip of the first batten above the boom is pulled directly
underneath the mast. With too little downhaul, the battens poke in front of the mast.

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 With too much downhaul the battens are pulled directly behind the mast and the
battens start to “S”.
• Once downhauled the leech becomes loose and floppy. The top full panel in the sail
should be loose from the leech to the midpoint in the panel (See Cambered Sail for
more description of this).

RAF sail–tuned perfectly

Camber-induced sails
• As with the RAF make sure the top batten in the sail is pulled tightly away from the
mast so that the top of the sail is flat. This is important when rigging older sails.
• Downhaul so the leech becomes loose and floppy.
• Test: Have someone stand on the base of the sail while you flew the top of the mast
down towards the ground. See how far you can push until wrinkles appear in the sail
around the boom area. The more downhaul you have the looser the leech will be and
the further the sail can flew (twist off the wind) before the area of the balance point
distorts.
• Check that the cambers are not knuckle shaped where they meet the batten. If there
is not enough downhaul then you will see a sharp angle in this area.

Problems with cambered sails

• Not enough downhaul–sail is too full.

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 • Too much downhaul–sail is too flat.
• Too much batten tension–sail will not rotate.

Camber induced sail–tuned perfectly

Draft
• Light air–use less downhaul to give the sail a deeper draft

• Powered up–use more downhaul to flatten out the sail

• Over-powered–lots of downhaul. Leech is “ugly”

Convertible sails
• Convertible sails can be used with or without cambers and tend to be equipment
specific. Some rig easily as a RAF and then install the camber, while others rig
better as a camber induced sail.
• General rule of thumb:
• If the cambers are external (ART) rig as a RAF.
• If the cambers are internal (e.g., Neil Pryde, North, Sailworks) rig as a cambered
sail.

Outhaul
• Neutral: Sail is outhauled until the material is tight but the battens and/or cambers
have not yet been pulled at all away from the mast.

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 • Negative: A little less outhaul than neutral. Sail material at the clew is a little loose.
• Positive: A little more outhaul than neutral. Sail material at the clew is pulled tight
and the battens and/or cambers are pulled slightly away from the mast.

Adjustable outhaul
• Tighten outhaul to point higher upwind or if overpowered.

• Loosen outhaul (bag-out sail) to point downwind or if underpowered.

Batten tension
• Tension battens so that the small, vertical wrinkles in the monofilm next to the
batten sleeves disappear.
• Be careful not to over tension as this will stretch the sail materials.

Helpful hints
• No gaps. Always rig the foot of the sail as close to the deck as possible and the clew
as close to the end of the boom as possible (this means taking pulleys off).
• Always tie off any remaining line in case of cleat failure.
• If rigged properly, the sail should never come into contact with the boom.
• Marking your extensions is a great way to decrease rigging time and identify your
equipment.
• When purchasing sails, have the shop where you buy them do a rigging demo for
you.

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Hanging lecture (longboard upwind)

Equipment positioning
• Mast must be vertical.

• Leeward rail must be down.

• Clean water release off tail (no rooster tail).
• Mast track most of the way forward.
• Daggerboard in the down position.

Hand positioning
• Find balance point on the boom.

• Keep your hands close together for increased wind sensitivity

• Balance point moves back as the wind increases.
• Never let your hands get further apart than shoulder width.

Foot positioning
• Feet are close together for less resistance on the board.

• Weight is always on your back foot driving the leeward rail down.

Body positioning relative to the wind

• Light wind: Light grip, hands touching; all weight on feet; leeward rail slightly
down (5 degrees); shoulders and hips twisted forward.
• Moderate wind: Hands close together; weight on our hands; driving back foot
down on leeward rail (15-30 degrees) hips twist forward out past shoulders; angle of
pull is down; roll your shoulders.
• Heavy wind: Hands as close together as possible; arms straight; shoulders out past
hips; weight on feet on windward side of board with legs straight. Push with toes to
angle board 15-30 degrees towards leeward; no body twist.
• Transitions between wind speeds: Always move your hands together; never move
feet unless wind changes drastically. In lulls, swing your weight down and under the
boom, bend knees and twist forward. In a gust, swing your weight out, changing the
angle of pull, no twist. The key to keeping board speed up is to never move your
hands or feet!

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Proper body position for upwind stances on a longboard
Light wind: Feet on the leeward side of board, legs straight.

Medium wind: Feet on the windward rail, hips are extended out past your shoulders.
You’re hanging off the boom.

Heavy wind: Straight body position from your shoulders to your ankles. Your feet are on
the windward rail.

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Daggerboard & mast track placement on a longboard

Daggerboard
• Upwind: The daggerboard will always be down for the upwind sailing. When
sailing overpowered, kick the daggerboard back 5 degrees at a time until
controllable.
• Off the wind: Keep the daggerboard down until full planing conditions.
• Run: Retract daggerboard to reduce drag.

Mast track
• Upwind: All the way forward or as far forward as possible, depending on board
volume, sailor’s weight, and wave size.
• Off the wind: When unable to plane, as far forward as possible depending on board
volume, sailor’s weight, and wave size. When planing, all the way back.
• Run: When unable to plane, as far forward as possible. When planing, you broad
reach instead of run.

Helpful hints
• Too far back

• Large rooster tail of water–you stalled by pointing too high into the wind,
• And/or you’ve spun-out.
• Too far forward
• The nose of the board is submerged.
• The board feels as if it wants to go downwind.

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Upwind on a shortboard (non-planing)
• Rake sail back, turning board upwind.
• When nose of board reaches 1:00 or 11:00, lean sail forward balancing the triangle,
sheeting out.
• Weight front foot on windward rail, in front of or beside mast track.
• Place unweighted back foot on leeward rail to control board pitch (between 15-45
degrees)
• Arms must be straight or loosely bent, allowing body weight to be countered by rig
weight.
• Feather back arm for power.

Helpful hints
• If excessive power from the sail is used, the board will slide sideways, and arms will
explode causing medical bills.

Light air upwind stance–legs straight, weight on front foot.

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Uphauling on a shortboard
• With feet close together, straddling the mast, squat down with knees bend and grab
uphaul rope.
• Drive hips while keeping back straight pull sail ¾ clear of water.
• With hands on uphaul or mast, rake the sail back towards the back of the board.
• When board points to one hour before 12:00, pull sail clear of water towards the
nose of the board.
• Place backhand on boom first, and then front hand.
• Luff sail to unsink the nose of the board.
• Bear off bring sail forward in bow and arrow position while keeping weight back.

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Tacking on a longboard
• Sail upwind with the leeward rail down.
• Place the front hand on the mast and rake the sail back so the clew is almost
touching the water.
• As you approach 11:00, the front foot steps in front of the mast directly on the
centerline of the board. The knees are bent with weight on the back foot. The front
arm extends to push the mast back and to leeward while oversheeting the clew
across the tail of the board.
• Wait
• Once the board is an hour past 12:00, transfer your weight to front foot bringing the
sail with you, let go of back hand and lift back foot, step directly behind your front
foot (towards the front of the board) while simultaneously reaching to the new
boom.
• Step back on the centerline while continuing to bring the sail forward. Pop and
Drop.

Helpful hints
• If you stay on the centerline, the board won’t tip.

• When tacking a long board, the daggerboard will be all the way down and the mast
track will be forward.
• It is very important that you bring the sail with you when you transfer weight from
the back foot to the front foot or you will steer back to 12:00.

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Tacking on a shortboard (non-planing)
• Gently rake the sail back to begin turning the board upwind.
• Place the front hand on the mast at waist level and move feet forward to mast base.
• One hour before 12:00, the front foot goes forward of the mast directly on the
centerline of the board. Shift weight onto front foot. Then, step directly in back of
your front foot (towards the front of the board) while simultaneously reaching to the
new boom.
• Step back on the centerline and re-gain balance (luff). If you are backwinded, lean
sail to the back of the board to ensure it turns through 12.00.
• Pop and drop, bearing off and picking up speed.

Helpful hints
• The difference between a long board tack and a short board tack is two hours. The
transition on a long board goes to an hour past 12.00 and the short board to an hour
before 12.00.
• Rake mast past back hip instead of trying to step around mast. This will allow you
to stay centered on your board.
• Take your time. These movements should be smooth – Board momentum is more
important than board speed.
• It is very important that you bring the sail with you when you transfer weight from
the back foot to the front or you will steer back to 12.00

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Tacking sequence

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Common errors
• Moving your backhand in front of the harness lines: The clew becomes heavy
and will pull you off the board.
• Grabbing too high on the mast: It causes hands to collide when coming around to
the new side of the boom.
• Making the entry too quickly: This will kill the board speed and make the
transition rushed and choppy.
• Keeping your head down: This will cause you to be bent over. You will then be
pulled over by the weight of the clew.
• Stepping without reaching and reaching without stepping.
• Starting tack with your feet too far back on board: This forces you to make too
big a step forward. Again, your transition will be sloppy and rushed.
• Panic popping after getting to the new side: There is no power in the sail yet.
Instead, rake sail back with your front hand and allow the board to rotate, then pop
and drop.

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Tacking a large shortboard with a large sail
• Oversheet sail like a longboard tack.
• Transition at 12:00, unlike either long or short board tacks.
• Throw sail forward during transition, sheeting in and driving nose off the wind like
a longboard exit.

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Planing tack on a shortboard

Entry
• Get ready for the tack by planing in the harness and footstraps parallel to the chop.

• Look upwind and behind you to make sure it is a safe place to turn.
• Reach back on the boom to keep the sail sheeted in and to aid unhooking.
• Unhook using hops only so the rig remains sheeted in.
• Lower body weight down on the boom.
• Slide back foot out of strap and place toes on centerline between front and back
straps.
• Step front foot out of strap and place it behind mast base.
• Move backhand between harness lines and reach front hand down to mast, waist
height.
• Step back foot in front of front footstraps keeping toes on centerline and heel on
windward side of board; move front foot to front of mast base.
• Rock weight onto heels gently so board begins to carve upwind.
• Hint: Maintain constant mast foot pressure and keep sail sheeted in so board rises
smoothly and stays on a plane throughout entry.

Transition
• At one hour before 12:00 shift weight onto front foot.
• Step directly in back of front foot (toward front of board) while simultaneously
reaching to the new boom (same as short board tack)
• Step on the centerline and regain balance. Keep sail back so board continues to turn
through 12:00

Exit
• Pop and drop, bearing off and picking up speed in your new direction.

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Beachstarting

Positioning your rig

• Sail should be to leeward of your board with mast into the wind. Place your
backhand on the tail of the board and your front hand on the mast. Draw the sail
onto the tail of the board.
• With your front hand, draw mast windward first, and then up.
• While sail is overhead, place backhand on boom in normal sailing position. Once
comfortable, place front hand on directly beside front harness line.
• Position board at 3:00/9:00 (higher if overpowered, lower if underpowered).

Proper sail position for a beachstart

Flying your rig

• Place back hand on boom first, followed by front hand.

• Rig forward = downwind

• Rig back = upwind
• Rig parallel = no power (both arms straight)
• Sheet in = power; sail lifts up (front arm extended, back arm bent)
• Sheet out = de-powered; sail drives down (front arm bent, back arm straight)
• Steering: sail forward and the board turns downwind, sail back and the board turns
upwind.

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 Back foot on centerline; pull board alongside of your front foot.

Sailing away
• Position the board at 3:00/9:00.

• Place your back foot on centerline of the board.

• Use your back leg to pull the board alongside of your front foot. The board should
be touching the leg that is standing on the bottom and the leg on the bottom should
be closer to the nose of the board than the back foot.
• Extend arms up and forward. Sheet in with your back arm while pushing up and
forward with front arm. Drive your head in and forward over the centerline (kiss the
sail) and roll up on to the board.
• Once the front foot is out of the water, stay low, place your front foot on the
centerline directly behind the universal pointed forward in an open stance, and sheet
out.

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Helpful hints
• Lower boom makes beach starting easier.

• Start “fin buster shallow” and slowly progress to deeper water.

• It is important to practice on both tacks.
• On long boards, the daggerboard is down a smidgen and the mast track is at the
proper position relative to wind speed.
• Push forward on the rig and side step toward the footstraps to bear off and get closer
to the board.
• Lighter winds – head board downwind.
• Heavier winds – head board upwind.

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Waterstarting

Positioning your rig

• Swim board upwind of sail. Rotate board or sail so that mast is beside tail of board
on the leeward side.
• Position board at 3:00/9:00 (higher if overpowered; lower if underpowered).
• Place your backhand on tail of board, front hand on mast and draw sail onto tail of
board. Pushing the tail under with backhand can help. Use your front hand to draw
the sail both windward and upward.
• Place backhand on boom; sheet in lightly (feathering the sail) and place front hand
on boom in normal sailing position.

Flying your rig

• Place backhand on boom followed by front hand.

• Rig forward = downwind

• Rig back = upwind
• Rig parallel = no power (both arms straight)
• Sheet in = power; sail lifts up (front arm extended, back arm bent)
• Sheet out = de-powered; sail drives down (back arm straight or pushing)
• Steering: sail forward and board turns downwind, sail back and board turns upwind.

Sailing away
• Place back foot perpendicular to and on the centerline of the board between front
and back straps with arch of foot facing forward and knee pointing back.
• Roll your back leg forward as you tuck your front leg out and behind your back leg.
While bending the back knee drive your body in and forward.
• Extend, pushing your front arm up and forward, swinging hips in front of the back
foot and sheeting IN and UP with back hand.
• While keeping your arms extended, drive your head in and forward towards the
mast to kiss the sail. Your front footsteps on/beside the centerline behind the mast.
Immediately sheet the sail out to prevent yourself from getting launched.
• Once the sail is upright enough to support your weight, step onto the board and sail
away.

Helpful hints
• Hands must be in normal sailing position.

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• Lower boom makes it much easier to waterstart.
• Wearing a life jacket conserves energy and helps you to practice waterstarts
• On long boards, the daggerboard is down a smidgen and the mast track is in its
normal sailing position relative to the conditions.
• In stronger winds point the board higher upwind. Having both feet on the board is
fine.
• In lighter winds point the board slightly downwind.

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Waterstarting sequence

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Butt sailing
• A drill to be done in windy conditions to help with sail control for waterstarting.
• Position your rig and fly the sail as you would for a beachstart but keep your body
lowered in the water (since it is windy you must keep the sail low to control it).
• Once comfortably controlling the sail above you with the board either slightly
upwind or on a beam reach, take your feet off the bottom and bring your knees into
your chest allowing your body to roll into a ball. Be sure to keep your arms straight
when you bend your knees.
• Place your feet gently against the side of the board (on the rails and NOT up on the
deck) with them spaced wider than shoulders width apart.
• Float along with the board for as long as you can. Steer downwind by leaning the
sail forward. Steer upwind by leaning the sail back.
• When you are out sailing and the wind picks up, you lose a fin, or you are simply
exhausted, use this butt sailing drill as a self-rescue technique to get you back to
shore.

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Harness lines
• Find the balance point/center of effort of your rig. This is where the sail is fully
sheeted in and has maximum power.
• Place lines an equal distance fore/aft of the balance point. The lighter the wind, the
closer together to increase sensitivity. The higher the wind, the further apart
(maximum width 10 inches).
• Adjust line length for conditions:
• Non-planing–the lines are longer and possibly further forward, because the rig is not
raked back.
• Planing–the lines are shorter because the sail rakes back and the boom becomes
lower. (for powered conditions, a harness line length measuring from your
wristwatch to your elbow is average).

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Using the harness
• Getting in:
• Keep shoulders out over water while maintaining a still rig.
• Slowly bring hips up and in to meet harness line.
• Drop hips down and out to windward, gradually weighting harness, thus
relieving arm strain.
• Remember: You can control the rig while being hooked in. Do not freeze.
Feather backhand for power.
• Getting out:
• Keep shoulders out over water, lift hips up and oiut, gently loading the pull of the
rig into your arms.
• Try to keep the rig still to maintain balance and speed.

Hook placement
• Chest harness: high hook makes for easy hooking in/out especially in panic launch
mode – most commonly used by wave sailors.
• Waist harness: lower hook and better lower back support, vertical pull is poor.
• Seat harness: lowest hook makes it more difficult to hook in and out – puts most
sailing power in your legs, not your back and provides good lateral and vertical pull
– most favored by racers.
• Body harness: adjustable hook height, great back support. Poor tanning factor!

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Helpful hints
• When putting the harness on, the fit should be snug. Once hooked in, the hook
should not pull far enough away from your body that you can put a hand between
the inside of the hook and yourself.
• The balance point will move depending on sail size, type and quality. As the sail get
bigger, the balance point moves back. Camber induced sails are typically more
stable than RAF’s. As the wind increases, the balance point will move back.
• When moving lines forward or back, move both straps keeping the same distance
apart (no Harleys).
• Rolling shoulders will add 3-4” to your arm extension.
• Using your thumbs to guide the harness line towards your hook will make it easier
to hook in.

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Speed on the reach

Equipment positioning
• Harness lines should be set on the balance point and the length should allow you to
keep the mast upright (not pulled to windward) and your body as vertical as
possible. Think of making a straight line from your heels to your ears (no chairs).
• The board should be flat or slightly railed to leeward.

Getting into the footstraps

• In the learning stages, hook in before backing up on the board and getting into the
front footstrap.
• In choppy water and when pumping onto a plane, get into your front footstrap and
then hook in.
• Keeping your arms straight and with your back foot between the footstraps, slide
your front foot against the front footstrap without stepping on it.
• Push hips over back foot, lift your front foot and slide gently into the footstrap.
• Push with your toes to keep the board flat – do not put weight on your heels.
• Slide your back foot against the back footstrap, again not stepping on it.
• Keeping the sail raked back, push hips forward lifting front heel off the board. With
the weight off the back foot, kick it into the back strap.
• Don't look down at your feet!

Body positioning
• Extend your arms and legs, rolling your shoulders to get your weight as far from the
board as possible. This will create a straight line from your heels to your ears, and
stay as rigid as possible.
• Weight is on the back foot, pushing with the toes to ensure the board is flat. Do not
put weight on your heels or you will round upwind and stall.
• Across the wind (broad reach) – both legs straight, body is basically out, and weight
is predominately on the back foot. This will allow you to sheet in your sail more,
giving you more power. The more weight you put on your back foot, the more you
will load your fin and reduce your waterline on the board.
• Upwind – back leg straight, back leg bent with body out and back, weight is still on
the back foot.

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• Downwind – front leg straight, back leg bent with body out and back, weight is still
on the back foot.

• Lulls – similar to upwind, swing shoulders forward and in, bending both arms and
legs, placing weight in harness on booms. (Do not disturb board or sail).

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 • Wind speed permitting, you always want your sail raked back enough so you can
place the foot of your sail on the deck of the board. Be sure to keep your sail
perpendicular to windward and leeward (i.e., don’t pull the sail over on yourself).

Spin out recoveries

• Pump fin – rapid in and out

• Pull fin under you – similar to pumping

• Stomp on windward rail
• Jump
• Tack
• Buy a new fin

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Tips for overpowered and underpowered conditions
• When overpowered, sail more upwind. Lock body out and drive rig back. Allow
body to come forward in order to point higher.
• When underpowered, soften ankles and stand up. Bear off to maintain a plane.
• If overpowered when sailing downwind bear off further. Reach back on boom and
oversheet to de-power sail. Do not sheet out!
• If underpowered when sailing downwind soften stance (ankles). If that doesn’t work
then turn upwind and re-accelerate, stiffening stance.

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Downwind drill for a longboard

Part 1
• While sailing start turning the board downwind by turning the front foot and hips
forward, placing the front foot on the windward rail.
• Rake the sail forward and to windward moving both hands down the boom.
• Next, “bow and arrow” and step back to tail of board.

Part 2
• While sailing at 6:00 with your feet on the tail of the board, bend knees and pull sail
overhead sinking tail.
• Push mast to vertical, driving your head under the boom and putting your weight on
the rig, flattening the board.
• Repeat.

Part 3
• With feet in the same position, steer the board by sliding your hands down the boom
to move the rig to the right (board goes to the left).
• Always keep the sail perpendicular to the wind and when moving hands up and
down the boom – move them both.

Part 4
• With feet in the same position, keeping the sail centered, steer the board by stepping
on the opposite rails (weight right – board goes left and weight left – board goes
right).
• Keep knees bent and weight on balls of feet, no straight legs or weight on heels.
• Repeat.

Part 5
• Combine steps II, III and IV

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Non-planing pivot jibe on a longboard
• Use the downwind drill to step 4
• When the nose of the board passes 6:00 by one hour, step forward with the new
front foot. “clew foot”
• Relax and catch your balance.
• Slide front hand forward on boom right next to the mast, release the backhand,
keeping the mast in front of you, and reach under with underhand grip to the new
boom.
• “Pop and drop”. Pop the sail and head under the boom for balance.

Helpful hints
• A “duck footed” stance with toes and knees pointed forward and out is most stable.

• The higher the nose is out of the water, the tighter the turn will be; the lower the
nose, the longer the turn will be.
• The stronger the wind, the further back on the tail you can go.
• The further your hands go back on the boom the fast the board turns.
• The lighter the wind, the more the rig goes forward. The heavier the wind, the more
the rig goes to windward.
• Keep hips tucked in during sail flip.
• Turn head or look out of sail flip.

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Non-planing pivot jibe on a shortboard
• While sailing across the wind, reach back with backhand on boom, step back with
back foot on centerline. Simultaneously, rake sail forward and to windward in “Bow
and arrow” position (i.e. front arm extended, back arm bent).
• As the board turns downwind and the power increases in the sail, lean body toward
tail of board with hips in and head up.
• Once the board is a half hour before 6:00, slide front foot back (heel across
centerline) in front of or behind back foot and shift weight onto that foot.
• Once the board has pivoted 1 to 2 hours past 6:00, step forward with the new front
foot, follow with the back foot if necessary.
• Relax and catch your balance while sailing clew first.
• Slide front hand forward on boom right next to the mast release the backhand,
keeping the mast in front of you, and reach under with underhand grip to the new
boom.
• “Pop and drop”. Pop the sail and get head under boom for balance.

Helpful hints
• Keep knees bent.

• The higher the nose is out of the water, the tighter the turn will be; the lower the
nose, the longer the turn will be.
• The stronger the wind, the more the mast should rake windward. Place feet as far
back on the tail as you can go. Arch body leaning the head and shoulders as far to
the back of the board as necessary.
• The lighter the wind, the more the rig goes forward and don’t step as far back on the
board.
• Keep hips tucked in during sail flip.
• Turn head or look out of the sail flip.
• Do not jump when switching feet. Switch them slowly.

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Planing step jibe

Set up
• While sailing fast in both footstraps (or at least the front strap and hooked in):

• Bear off or sail parallel to chop.

• Look downwind, behind, and upwind (for the puff) to be safe.
• Reach back on the boom at least 12 inches. This is to aid in unhooking and
oversheeting.
• Unhook using hops only, not your elbows. We don’t want to sheet out.
• Wait for the board to settle. Legs straight, arms straight, re-accelerate. Keep your
body low for leverage.
• Pull back foot out of footstrap. Slide (not step) to leeward rail, in front of back
strap, facing forward 45 degrees or parallel to front strap.

Initiation
• Roll weight in over feet (toes to head); knees bent.

• Keep weight forward and head up.

• Allow the sail to pull you to inside of turn then oversheet and stall sail (front arm
straight, back arm bent), balanced on board; knees bent, head up, hips in, on balls of
feet.

Carve

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Transition
• Just before 6:00:

• Open sail.
• Switch feet. Pivot the front foot (still in strap) across the centerline and place
weight on the heel so board continues to carve. Step forward with new front foot
(in an open stance). Feet should be about shoulders width apart.
• Keep the boom square to shoulders, making you come past 6:00 clew first.

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Exit
• Either sail away clew first and accelerate or if still planing slide new front arm
forward on boom to mast.
• Release backhand. Bending front arm to keep mast vertical and in front of you,
reach under the new front arm to grab the new boom, place back hand behind
harness lines. Keep hips in on flip (to counteract mast weight).
• Pop and drop. Pop your sail and drive your head under the boom for more balance.

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Helpful hints
• The slower and more smoothly you move your body the faster the board moves.

• The faster you go into a jibe, the faster you come out.
• The faster you reach back to oversheet the easier it is (it lightens the sail).
• Keep knees bent, weight forward and oversheet.
• Make transition with speed.
• Don’t rush the sail flip, clew first looks cool! Smile.
• Turn head or look out of the sail flip.

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Common mistakes
• Not reaching far enough back on the boom. This is to ensure sheeting in and prevent
sheeting out.
• Stepping instead of sliding to the leeward rail with your back foot.
• Head down and butt out causing you to be pulled over.
• Sail flipping mistakes: not sliding front hand up close enough to mast and/or not
bending front arm towards body to control clew weight.

Entry drill
• Oversheeting on a broad reach to feel the sensation of oversheeting.

• Think; look; reach back on boom; slide rear foot to center of board.
• Oversheet and stall sail; then coast.
• Sail will power up and pull you over.

Jibe outlines
• Button Hook: Occurs when the sail is flipped when the board has too little speed.

• Sail Away Clew First: Carve through the setup and initiation but because the board
has lost most of its speed sail away clew first to re-accelerate and then flip the sail.

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• Full Planing: Scary fast. Transition much earlier allowing you to exit out of turn
very broad with lots of speed.

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Carving pivot jibe

Set up
• Same as planing step jibe (head to toe setup)

Initiation
• Same as planing step jibe (toe to head initiation).

Transition
• As board is running out of speed we must change into pivot jibe mode.

• Open sail back up in the bow and arrow position.

• Keep hips parallel to the boom as you turn front foot out of strap and step back with
it.
• Step up with new front foot in an open stance.
• Sail away clew first (re-accelerate sailing clew first before sail flip).

Exit
• Same as pivot jibe.

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Chop hopping
• Sailing fast on a beam reach, look in front and to windward for a wave that is
continually capping.
• Just before the wave reach back on the boom, stand up over the board, then unhook,
and drive the rig down, then tail down sheeting out for a second.
• Time it so that when you hit the wave’s face, you explode up with your
arms/shoulders, front foot and then back foot. Sheeting in fully. Raise windward rail
15-30 degree. Pull body up to rig.

Steering
• The front foot is the altitude foot and determines how high or far you will fly.

• The back foot controls the direction of the nose. If you extend the back leg, you
steer upwind; if you pull the back leg in, you steer downwind.
• Tilting the board to leeward (pushing on toes) will bring the nose of the board off
the wind and keep you in the air longer.

Landing
• Sheeting out puts all your weight on your back foot, causing you to land tail first
and spin out.
• Staying sheeted in causes you to land flat.
• Staying sheeted in and tilting rig forward creates nose first landing. Once nose hits
sheet out lightly.
• Absorb all landings by bending your legs. Extending your legs during the landing
typically washes out the fin and we end up on our backs.

Helpful hints
• Always keep your mouth shut (especially when landing).

• This can be practiced in absolutely flat water.

• Always make sure that if you must abort in the air, that your gear will not kill
somebody sailing to leeward.
• As you get more comfortable in the air, try jumping while hooked in. This keeps the
sail sheeted in and allows you to wave at the camera.
• Practice on both tacks.
• Board flat landing is easiest, but hardest on you and your equipment. Tail first is
best first landing. Nose first is best for you and equipment but is the scariest.

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Freestyle

Why learn freestyle?

Freestyle is fun in no wind or light wind conditions and freestyle improves your
shortboard skills, and board handling in general.

Sail tricks
The key to any sail trick is to go from having your rig balanced to having it unstable to
having it balanced again. Before trying a sail trick, practice placing your hands fore and
aft of the balance point of your sail and see what happens.

Leeward-side sailing
• There are two main ways to get into the position of sailing on the leeward side of
the sail:
• Begin as you would a short board tack. Transition your hands and feet to the
other side of the board well before 12:00 (putting you on the leeward side).
• Turn the board upwind as in a longboard tack. Oversheet the sail so the board
steers through 12:00. Once past 12:00 bring the sail forward to bear off a little
and you are now on the leeward side.
• Once on the leeward side of the sail keep relaxed with your weight on the back foot.
• Support the sail with a straight front arm while backhand remains off the boom
entirely or just feathers for power (do not push against sail continually with back
hand).

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Helicopter tack
• Sail with a standard tack.

• Once the board is past the eye of the wind, rake the sail forward while placing both
feet near the universal.
• Push the boom with the back of the hand aft of the balance point of the sail, and let
the mast fall slightly to leeward.
• Once the sail is clew first, grab the mast with your new backhand, flip the sail, and
sheet in.

Board tricks

Rail ride
• Sail on a close reach.

• Place back foot close to leeward rail, support your weight on your back foot and
your boom, place front foot on the daggerboard.
• Once the rail comes up, keep sheeted in and place most of your weight on the
daggerboard.
• Then put your back foot on the rail and follow with your front foot.
• The more you sink the nose, the more you will head up, sinking the tail will make
you head off.
• Tip: Make sure that your U-joint will not come out of the board. A wetsuit or shin
guards are a good idea to protect shins for beginners.

Trick beachstarts and waterstarts

Clew-first
• Position board for normal beachstart/waterstart facing the opposite direction of
intended clew first beachstart/waterstart.
• Place hands in rear staggered position on boom.
• Turn board downwind; once nose passes 6:00 move around tail and place back foot
(or both feet if windy) on board.
• Push clew up and feather mast hand; allow sail to roll body up over board like
normal waterstart (the stronger the wind the further downwind the board should
point).
• Sail clew first until comfortable and then flip sail.

Butt jibe
• Set-up for a normal two footed waterstart but with hands in a rear staggered grip.

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 • Pull tail of board under your butt with back foot making the nose turn downwind.
• Cross over back leg with front leg kicking the tail through 12:00
• Once nose has jibed, place new front foot back on board and waterstart clew first.

Fin first
• Practice in water below mid-thigh depth for best results.

• Set-up by either steering the board 180 degrees in to the fin first position while
flying the sail (practice turning the board 360 degrees while keeping the sail in one
position to dial in this skill) or pulling the boom up onto the nose of the board to
clear the sail.
• Place back foot on nose in a position so that once weight is on board the fin will
partially clear from the water. If too close to mast base you will always round
upwind. If too close to nose it will be hard to stay balanced.
• Beachstart and allow hips to come directly over back foot with leg bent to keep
weight on it. Make sure front foot and hips face forward (towards fin). Bow and
arrow rig forward (towards fin) and to windward so board doesn’t immediately
round upwind.
• Longboard tip: Make sure centerboard is up. When being pulled up place feet in
duck footed stance on nose to keep fin clear.

Board upside down in relation to boom

• With board pointed at 12:00 lean sail forward, pull knees into chest and feather
backhand.
• Aim feet for both sides of mast base.
• As sail pulls you up extend legs to flip board.
• Sheet out and get your balance.

Ultimate light wind waterstart

• Start with board upside down pointed at 12:00

• Place front hand on mast below boom and back hand of foot of sail.
• Feather for power and tilt sail forward slightly.
• Place feet on both sides of mast and keep body rolled into a ball.
• Board, sail and body will roll over together and placing you in a squatted position
on the board.
• Sheet out; balance triangle of sail; release hands and stand up; catch boom.

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Freestyle trick list

Light wind tricks

Sitting on board Lying on board Nose dip (kneeling) Fin first
Sailing on leeward Side Clew first tack Pirouettes (E.F.M.) Tail sink
Pirouette jibe Duck jibe Inside boom Sail/body 360
Back to sail Spin tack Backwind jibe Duck tack
Windward sailing jibe to leeward sailing Hoss tack

More light wind tricks

Front flip into sail Back to boom pirouette Sail 360 inside boom step out
Back to boom clew first Clew first/inside boom Clew first fin first
Back to sail (inside boom) Duck spin tack Spin duck tack

Rail tricks
Railride – with one foot on dagger
Railride (variations) Back to skeg railride Pirouette on rail
Pirouette Everoll Tacking on rail Back flip thru boom on rail
Back to sail railride sail 180 to clew first

Planing tricks
Duck jibe Monkey jibe Flip jibe Carving 360
Reverse monkey jibe Donkey jibe Duck tack Hoss tack
Doss tack Ducking 360 Backwind jibe Upwind 360
Switch foot jibe Body drag Switch foot duck jibe
Double versions of above tricks (e.g., Double hoss tack)

Aerials
Jump jibe Table top Jump duck jibe Willy skipper
Forward loop Back loop Vulcan Spock
Spock 540 Diablo Air tack Wymaroo
Lollipop Switch foot air tricks Spock 540 Grubby
Free willy Flaka

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Fun and games

King of the board...the official rules

• Use the biggest board possible and if a longboard, remove the daggerboard.

• Go to deep enough water to avoid danger of hitting bottom when falling off.
• Two people climb on top with one at each end facing each other.
• Goal is to be the last person standing on the board using the following rules:
• No contact
• No crossing the centerline
• First person to touch the water loses (no hooking feet on the board)
• Double elimination

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Sail design and theory

Parts of the sail

• Head

• Foot
• Clew
• Leech
• Luff sock
• Luff curve
• Load strip
• Roach (+, -, foot)
• Draft

Bernoulli (Low pressure lift)

Lift
• Boundary layer
• Laminar flow
• Turbulent flow

Drag
• Form

• Frictional
• Induced
• Twist

Materials
• Dacron

• Mylar
• Monofilm
• Scrim
• X-ply

What's appropriate for you?

• Where do you primarily sail?

• Surf

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 • Lake
• Ocean
• River
• What is the average wind strength you sail in?
• What kind of board do you sail on?

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Fins

Bernoulli (Low pressure lift)

Lift
• Boundary layer
• Laminar flow
• Turbulent flow

Drag
• Form

• Friction
• Induced

Spin Out
• Induced (pressure differences, vortex)

• Washout (redirection)
• Fore fins
• Splits/slots

Materials
• Plastic

• Glass
• Carbon
• G-10
• G-11
• Carbon/Glass/Hybrid

Bases
• Chinook

• Production
• TuttlePowerbox
• Trim box

Placement
• Footstrap

• Chord length

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 • Fist

Repairs

Recommendations/Types
• Course

• Course Slalom
• Slalom
• Wave
• Beachstarts
• Free Ride
• Freestyle

Size

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Glossary
Across the wind Perpendicular to the direction of the wind.
Batten A long, slender, usually flat fiberglass stick used in the sail to help
control its shape.
Beam reach Sailing at 90 degrees to the wind. On the wind clock, toward three
or nine o’clock.
Boom The two bowed, usually aluminum, poles that are connected at the
ends, and which a boardsailor grasps while sailing.
Bow The forward end of the board.
Broad reach Sailing between 90 and 180 degrees off the wind. On the wind
clock, roughly toward four or eight o’clock.
Camber inducer A sail device that connects the batten to the mast and helps to hold
the sail’s shape.
Centerboard The pivoting, foil shaped, keel-like plank that passes through the
sailboard hull and either projects directly down or swings back
mostly or entirely into the hull.
Centerline A line that can pass through the skeg, the centerboard and the mast
step; it is the board’s longitudinal axis.
Clew The corner of the sail farthest from the mast.
Daggerboard The non-pivoting, foil shaped, keel-like, wood, plastic or fiberglass
plank that passes through the sailboard hull and projects directly
down. The centerboard is often mistakenly referred t by this name.
Downhaul The line, or line and pulley (s), used to tension the leading edge of
a sail by pulling down on, or hauling down, the sail’s lower, front
corner; it usually attaches to the mast base.
Downwind The direction in which the wind is blowing.
Inhaul The line that attaches the boom to the mast; it hauls the mast into
the forward angle of the boom. Many modern rigs do not use an
inhaul line, but rather a quick-release clamp.
Jibe A downwind turn in which the nose of the board goes through the
downwind eye of the wind and the sailor switches from one side of
the sail to the other.
Leech The imaginary line from the head of the sail the clew.
Leeward The side away from the wind.

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Luffing The flapping of the sail that occurs when the mast is into the wind,
and the clew is pointing downwind. At this point, the sail has no
power in it.
Mast The long, hollow, slender, fiberglass, aluminum or carbon pole
used as the sail’s primary support.
Mast base The part that fits into the bottom end of the mast and attaches to
the topside of the universal joint.
Mast foot The part that attaches to the bottom side of the universal joint and
fits into the mast step.
Mast sleeve The sleeve of the sail into which the mast is inserted.
Offshore When the wind is blowing away from the shore.
Onshore When the wind is blowing toward the shore.
Outhaul The line, or line and pulley(s), that is used to pull on the sail’s clew
and spread the sail out (haul out) to the wind; it attaches to the
back end of the boom.
Plane “To plane” means to skim the surface of the water like a water-ski,
rather than plow through it like a freighter. “On a plane” or
“planing” means to be skimming.
Pointing Sailing into the wind as high as possible.
Port The tack in which your left hand is forward on the boom.
Rig To “rig” is to assemble mast, boom, sail, battens, mast base, etc. A
“rig” is the assembled mast, boom, sail, battens, mast base, etc.
Running This term refers to sailing directly downwind.
Sheeting in Pulling the sail in with your backhand in order to prevent the sail
from luffing.
Sheeting out To let your back hand farther out and allow the sail to move
toward luffing.
Sideshore When the wind is blowing across the beach.
Skeg (fin) The foil-shaped, plastic, or fiberglass, fin-like appendage attached
to the bottom of the back end of a board. The skeg helps keep the
board on a straight and steady course.
Starboard The tack in which your right hand is forward on the boom.
Tacking A turn is which the nose of the board goes through the eye of the
wind and the sailor switches from one side of the sail to the other.
Tight reaching Sailing close to the wind.

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Universal joint The device that attaches the mast foot to the mast base. It is usually
made of a flexible plastic, and bends readily when the rig falls into
the water.
Uphaul The thick line attached to the front end of the booms that is used by
the sailor to pull (haul up) the sail out of the water.
Upwind The direction from which the wind is blowing.
Windward The side toward the wind.

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