Draping - An Overview and History

History

Draping is the process of transforming a clothing design into a three-dimensional form. The art of
draping dates back to 3500 BCE, beginning with the Mesopotamians and Ancient Egyptians. Greek
fashion followed with the invention of draped silhouettes like the chiton, peplos, chlamys and himation.
The Etruscans and Ancient Romans invented the toga, a length of fabric that wraps and drapes
around the body.

Throughout the ages, clothing was categorized as either “fitted” or “draped.” A “fitted” garment would
be sewn together and worn close to body, in contrast to a “draped” garment, such as a toga that
doesn’t require sewing. In today’s fashion world, both fitted and draped garments can be patterned
using the draping process.

Draping has been the hallmark of several famous designers beginning with Madame Grès, known as
the “Queen of the Drape”. Her expertly draped and executed collection of Grecian-inspired silk jersey
dresses consumed over 70 yards of silk jersey each. Madame Grès and French-born, American
designer Pauline Trigère, were both known for draping their designs directly on live models instead of
dress forms.

Madeleine Vionnet, in contrast, chose to initially test her designs on a miniature mannequin instead of
on a full size form. Vionnet’s claim to fame is her mastery of the “bias cut,” which resulted in the most
sensual designs that are still a source of inspiration to designers to this day.

Why use draping?

Designers love the art of draping because their designs come to life as they manipulate the fabric on
the dress form. Even though a designer may start out with a design sketch, during the draping process
a new and more interesting design usually takes shape. This is why draping is considered the more
creative method of pattern making.

Unlike the 2-dimensional pattern making process, draping allows the designer to get a “feel” for the
fabric as the fabric is draped on the form. Draping enables the designer to make better choices when
considering the suitability of a particular fabric to its design.

Fashion draping is an important part of fashion design. ​Draping ​for fashion design is the process of
positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design. A garment
can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer can play with the way fabric
falls to create new designs at the start of the apparel design process. After draping, the fabric is
removed from the dress form and used to create the sewing pattern for the garment.
Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

Fashion draping and fitting are usually done with ​muslin ​(an inexpensive, unbleached, loosely woven
cotton) to resolve any design and fitting issues of a garment before cutting the pattern in real fabric.
However, it is important to drape using a fabric that has similar drape characteristics (the way it falls
and folds) as the real fabric of the finished garment. Muslin comes in a variety of weights, and
inexpensive synthetic fabrics can also be used in fitting and draping for apparel design.

Fashion designers drape garments in sections i.e.: front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt etc.
and only the right side of the garment (when worn) is draped, unless the apparel design is
asymmetrical.
The general process for how to drape for fashion is as follows:

∙ ​Pieces of muslin are cut and prepared. This includes measuring, tearing, blocking, pressing, and
marking grain lines and other important reference lines.
Prepared muslin- Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​Now the actual “draping” begins. The fabric is pinned to the dress form and positioned to form
various darts, tucks, gathers, etc., which give shape and fit to the garment.

Garment draping- Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​Once the desired design is achieved, the muslin is marked while still on the dress form to
indicate where the seam lines, darts, etc. are located on the fabric.
Marking muslin – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​When marking is finished, the muslin is removed from the dress form and laid flat on a table for
 “truing”. ​Truing ​is the process of using rulers and design curves to connect, smooth out and
finalize the markings.

Truing muslin – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​Once truing is complete, seam lines are added and excess material is cut away. ​∙ ​The muslin is
then pinned together (with all darts pinned) and placed back onto the dress form to check for fit
accuracy and to drape any additional parts of the garment.

Muslin pinned to dress form – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​Once all pieces are the garment are draped, they are all pinned together and placed on the dress
form to check for fit accuracy.

Check for fit accuracy – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

∙ ​When the apparel designer is satisfied with the look and fit of the pinned garment, the muslin is
removed from the dress form, pressed flat, and all seam lines, grain lines, markings, notches,
etc. are transferred to paper, creating the sewing pattern for the garment.
Transfer to paper sewing pattern – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

Why Should Fashion Designers Learn How to Drape?

While the majority of companies in the fashion industry no longer use draping as part of the design
process, draping is a key skill which allows apparel designers to understand what creates a great fit
and how to achieve it. If a garment sample fits poorly, a designer who is familiar with how darts and
seams give shape to garments can spot what is creating the fit issue and advise the factory how to
correct the problem.

However, the art of draping isn’t completely lost; in high fashion, couture fashion houses, evening, and
lingerie companies most garments are created through draping. When draping a garment, the
designer can immediately see what her apparel design will look like on the body, and immediately
correct any fit or design problems before putting anything down on paper. In addition, some apparel
designs are just impossible to make via flat patternmaking and need to be draped first. And some
fabrics need to be experimented with on a dress form to see how they behave.

Fashion draping – Image from “EBook Photo Draping” by Valerie Corr

While draping for apparel design may seem like a daunting and tedious approach to creating patterns,
it’s actually one of the more creative parts of the fashion design process. Apparel designers can
experiment with fabric, and decide where to place darts, tucks, and other design elements. Playing
with the way fabric folds and hangs on the body is a fun way to create new fashion designs that you
wouldn’t have thought of sitting in front of a sketchbook.
The method of draping includes stitching the garment by the use of loosely hanging material to create
o flowing effect. Even it can create for a very impressive effect when finished appropriately. Draping
needs ability and practice to do exact fitting, fall and fullness.

Most of the designers choose to try out with the mode of fabric hangings but also there are purpose
able ways to determine drape. Draping technique is generally used in making garments but can also
be used to develop skirts, blouses and pants.

# Draping ​at first started with a designer, taking a normal basic dress and putting it on a dressmaker’s
model. Already the garment was sewn before starting draping. While stitching the garment, core
shape and fit should be maintained properly to dress-up the model perfect.

# The next technique is, the designer takes pieces of fabric, pins and required material before starting
draping. Pin them to the garment where the drape is preferred, which will provide the finished garment
shape.

Most of the time, the pinned fabrics were not the same as the fabric which was used on the final
garment but they will be using comparable priceless materials….. The reason is that the fabric which
was pinned on the garment will frequently be slashing or marked on while the design process is going.
It can be costly with well cloths.

After the designer has made the garment appearing the way that the model requests it, the model will
create final marks on the fabrics to explain where the slashes and sewn should be made on the
concluded garment and then the fabric pieces will be removed.
Designer will take the pieces and trace them on the paper to create a pattern for the final garment.
This will be used to guide for making the garment, so it is so important for the designer to make
detailed marks on the performed fabric.

Designers have to consider lot of aspects when they are draping the fabrics. The material and GSM of
a fabric can significantly modify the way it drapes on a garment.

The materials like ​chiffon, satin and silk ​are rather usually consider in draped clothing. Some other
materials can also be used as well. More inflexible fabrics are unsuitable for this draping effect.

However most of the designers would have a preference to experiment with fabrics to check how they
hang. There are some specific ways to check the fabric’s draping mode. This can be over either by
identifying the thickness and stiffness of a fabric sample or the method of using a tool called as drape
mater.

Drape meter was used to determine a drape coefficient. It contains a number from 0 to 100 in written
format. For example, sateen and muslin cloths have good draping property than twill hosieries.
Measurement

MethodsofMeasuringBodyandDressForm

Methods of Measuring Body and Dress Form

Measuring the human body or the dress form is the first step in development of garments to fit the
body well. To take measurements precisely and accurately is the first step in learning to make
patterns. Care should be taken to take accurate measurements in order to achieve a good fit. It is
extremely important to understand the dress form before starting to take dress form measurements.
One should carefully observe the shape of the body, where it is hollow, how shoulder slopes etc. It is
equally important for the pattern maker to understand various body functions and how and where each
limb moves while performing various body movements or daily tasks.
Method of Measuring a Dress Form

Identify Various Body Parts: Dress forms come in various sizes, shapes, figures, colours, lengths etc.
from a number of companies in standard body measurements in different materials. They are available
ready made according to standard measurements of a country and can be customized according to
the customer profile or target market of the company. A dress form with Size 8 marked on it and made
by a US based company is made as per size 8 of US standard size. However, a company dealing with
maternity wear will require a customized dress form.
The first step in order to learn to measure a dress form is to know the form. The figure given below
identifies the various body parts on the front and back of a standard dress form.

Measurements

1. Front Length: measure from high shoulder neck intersection to waistline over the bust, take care
to measure with a hand under the bust in order to measure the underside of the bust.

2. Centre Front Length: measure from neck intersection at centre front to waist at centre front
intersection without any pulls.
3. Shoulder to Waistline: measure from the shoulder tip to side seam waistline intersection (over
the sides add 3/4th of an Inch as ease for the armhole).

4. Underarm Seam: mark a point X 1" below armhole plate. From the point Xmeasure
down to waistline intersection at the side seam.

5. Shoulder Length: measure from shoulder neck intersection to princess line and then from princess
line to the tip of the shoulder.

6. Width of Bust: measure from centre front over the bust to point X on side seam (to just over the
seam).

7. Front Waistline: measure from centre front waistline intersection to side seam waist line
intersection.

8. Front Hipline: Mark a point with the help of a pin at on centre front which is 7" below the
waistline. Using this point measure from floor up, mark this measurement horizontally on the dress
form starting from Center front and continue to centre back (keeping it uniform throughout). Put a
style tape for reference and label it as hip line. On this line, measure starting from the centre front
intersection to side seam intersection (to just over the seam).

9. Apex Measurement: measure from the centre front to the high bust point keeping the tape
parallel to the floor.
10. Centre Front to Princess Line: At waistline measure from centre front intersection to princess line
intersection.

11. Shoulder Blade: Mark a point Y on centre back so that, from centre back neck intersection to point
Y is 1/4thof centre back length. Shoulder blade is measured from point Y to armhole ridge keeping the
tape parallel to the floor.

12. Width of Back: measure from point X on side seam to centre back keeping the tape parallel to the
floor.

13. Back Waistline: measure from centre back waistline intersection to side seam waistline
intersection.
14. Back Hip line: measure from centre back intersection to side seam intersection on hip line marked
earlier.

15. Centre Back Length: measure from neck intersection at centre back to waist at centre front
intersection without any pulls as for center front.

16. Centre Back to Princess Line: At waistline measure from centre back intersection to princess
line intersection.

17. Centre Front Length for Lower Garment: measure from centre front waistline intersection at centre
front down to the desired length ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds.

18. Centre Back Length for Lower Garment: measure from centre back waistline intersection at centre
back down to the desired length ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds as for centre
front.

19. Side Seam Length: measure from waistline intersection at side seam over the hip to ankle
ensuring that the tape measure has no pulls or folds.

20. Crotch Depth

(a) On Dress Form: Place an L-square between legs of form and note the measurement at
waistline. This measurement includes 1¼" ease as the L-square is generally 1¼" wide.

(b) On Body: make the customer sit on a flat surface ensuring that back of the client is absolutely
straight. In this seated position, measure from the waistline intersection at side seam over the figure to
the seat of the chair. (Ease needs to be added here.)

21. Knee Circumference: take the round measurement over the fullest part of the knee over the bone.
On the body, it should be measured over a bent knee for a complete measurement. 22. Ankle
Circumference: take the round measurement over the ankle bone. On the body, it should be
measured over ankle and heel for a complete measurement.
23. Cap Height: Tie a tape around the biceps of arm close to the armpit. Cap height is to be
measured from shoulder intersection to the top of the tape.

24. Sleeve Length: measure from shoulder intersection over the bent elbow to the wrist.

25. Bicep Circumference: take the round measurement over the fullest part of the arm.

26. Elbow Circumference: take the round measurement over the elbow. On the body, it should be
measured over a bent elbow for a complete measurement.

27. Wrist Circumference: take the round measurement over the wrist bone.

Things to Keep in Mind While Taking Measurement on the Body.

Round measurement /girth measurement are to be taken by measuring over the widest point of the
body with two fingers between the body and measuring tape, this will ensure that the body is neither
pressed nor squeezed.

Note: Remember the measuring tape should not press into the body otherwise measurement may
not be accurate.

For lengthwise measurement, ensure that the customer is standing in a natural pose.
Length wise measurement: While taking length wise measurement a hand should be kept under the
bust for ensuring that bust is taken while measuring the length. Otherwise the length of the garment
will fall short.
Shoulder/cross back measurements are taken from one shoulder bone to the other.
Make the best choice – dress forms vs. Mannequins

People tend to be confused when it comes to choosing between ​dress forms ​and mannequins.
Especially for the beginners, or for those who are new in this niche, it is easy to make a confusion
between these two, as they seem like the same thing. However, there are some essential differences
between ​dress forms ​and mannequins. To help you make the best decision for your needs, we are
here to show you some of the differences between them. By the end of this article, you’ll be able to
easier decide which one you need – a ​dress form​, or a mannequin.

Presenting the differences

So here you can see a few details about some of the main differences between a ​dress form ​and a
mannequin. For the beginning, it is important to know the basic details of the ​dress forms ​and
mannequins. Hence, here you find the description for each of them, to understand from the beginning
what is the meaning of each of these two terms.

A mannequin is described as a dummy, or an amalgamated figure, which is generally used in

showrooms and boutiques to display garments. It is the perfect substitute for a live human model. The
mannequin is available for various age groups, and in standard measurements for each age group and
figure.

A ​dress form ​is an amalgamated figure that has standard measurements for a certain figure type. It is
a great substitute for human torso and it is generally used in manufacturing units, colleges and
institutes. A dress form is not a complete human figure. However, it gives required vital stats of a
human body. It is truly helpful for checking out measurements for a given figure type, to check fitting
and hem lines, as well as to understand the drape of a fabric.

Shape

One of the most obvious differences between the ​dress form ​and the mannequin lies in the shape. In
what regards this characteristic, in most of the cases, the ​dress form ​only features a torso shape,
without the head, arms and legs. On the other side, the mannequin is available in various shapes,
including full body, torso-only, and torso plus limbs. So if you see a torso-only shape, then it is
generally a dress form.

Material

Another characteristic that makes the difference between a ​dress form ​and a mannequin resides in
the material used. In what regards the torso of a dress form, this is usually made of a material that
offers a soft and plush feeling at the touch. Generally, ​dress forms ​are designed using a soft material
that is capable of holding pins and needles. This is one of the characteristics that makes the dress
forms particularly effective in the production of custom-made clothing. For example, if you design or
re-size a garment, such as a shirt, you can pin it to the dress form to make it stay in place. On the
other hand, a mannequin is usually made with a hard shell-like material.

Price

Another main difference resides in the price. ​Dress forms ​are simpler, they contain fewer parts, have a
simple design, and this makes them cost less than mannequins.
What to choose?

If you’re answering which one to choose, then you should know that it is only you who can give the
right answer to this question. Basically, it depends on what you actually need to achieve. However, to
help you a bit with the answer, you need to know that usually, dress forms are recommended for
professional tailors, fashion designers, seamstresses and others alike. On the other hand, mannequins
are more suitable for retail stores and window displays.
The Practical Dress Forms Buyer Guide

Dress Forms

It is a three dimensional model of the human body that is used for fitting clothing while it is being
created, designed or sewed. When tailors make a piece of clothing, they use a dress form to see how
the item fits, if not, to adjust or alter until it becomes what the tailor or customer had envisioned. It
replicates the figure of a woman or a man, from the neck down to the thighs. This form, in turn, is
attached to a stand or base.

Dress forms come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and suit a large range of clothing types.
Simple dress forms are used to make patterns while the adjustable versions allow for the item to be
tailored according to an individual's specific measurements.

Fun fact: The female dress form is named Judy and the male one James.

Before deciding on the kind of dress form you need and like, take a minute to think about its use. What
are the features that serve your purposes or help you with your business?

Dress Form Construction Materials

If you've been wondering how dress forms are made, check out the video below:

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frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

∙ ​Wood​- This type of dress form is impractical nowadays. It was used in the 18th century, when
the shape was crafted exclusively from wood, having an iron frame overlaid to support the
luxurious dresses and skirts of that time. You can still find wooden torsos but they serve purely
a display purpose, or are a scaled model used as a decoration. Some of the present dress
forms can have articulated wooden arms.
∙ ​Wire​- Dress forms crafted from metal wire have a vintage feel and are used mostly for decorative
and display purposes. You can display clothes, scarves, hats and purses, drape it with colorful
materials and showcase jewelry with it. It is lightweight and easy to assemble so it may just be
the perfect solution for expo's, exhibitions, fairs and trade shows. Wire dress forms can be
used for dress making but are not recommended for professional tailoring.
∙ ​PU(Polyurethane) / Foam​- The shape shifter of the bunch, foam dress forms can be altered to
create an exact replica of the body with the help of the cotton cover. It is fully pinnable and is
perfect for personal tailoring or even professional use.
∙ ​FRP / Fiberglass​- Fiberglass is a hard plastic used to create the center of the dress form, on top
of this, a layer of foam and / or of fabric can be added to make the form partially or fully
pinnable.
∙ ​Rattan​- Woven in the same manner as rattan baskets, this type of dress form has an earthy feel
to it, being used mostly for display purposes or even for sewing if covered with cloth, but it is
not a professional solution.
∙ ​Cardboard​- The video above explains it all.

Dress Form Features

There are a few features that make all the difference when it comes to professional tailoring or
showcasing clothing in retail.

Partially and Fully Pinnable

This feature refers to actual pins used by tailors when they want to piece together an item of clothing
or when they have to make and mark some adjustments. It implies the material used to craft the dress
form and the fabric used to cover it.

Partially pinnable ​dress forms are crafted with a thinner layer of foam that allow for these pins to be
inserted only from certain angles as to not deteriorate the surface of the body.

Fully pinnable ​dress forms are made using a much thicker type of foam that allow the pins to be
inserted anywhere, directly, without wearing out the material.

The cloth surface that is used to cover the dress forms is designed to hold pins as well.

Collapsible Shoulders / Hips

This feature allows for the dressmaker form to be dressed and undressed easier, due to the fact that
the shoulders and hips drop down. It is aimed towards professional tailors and designers.

Magnetic Limbs

Some dress forms can come with both arms and legs that can be attached and secured with the help
of magnets. Shoulders can also have magnets thus making them removable and facilitating the
process of getting the garment on and off of the torso. Retailers can use this feature more than tailors,
when displaying products, it helps create a much more realistic image that the customers can relate to,
just like in the case of mannequins.

Roller vs. Stable Base

A ​roller ​base is helpful if you have to move the form within your workspace or store. The wheels come
with breaks to ensure that once it is set in the desired place, it won't move, not even while handling it.

A ​stable ​base can be crafted from any kind of solid material such as wood, ivory, metal(various colors
or chrome), cobblestone, heavy duty plastic, and so on. It can be a tripod base or a round base that
stabilizes the body.

Adjustable Height

Adjustable height suggests that the rod between the actual form and the base or stand can be set to a
desired length. It helps when having to consider the height of the customer and / or if she or he is
wearing high heels. Another functionality is for the comfort of the tailor spending hours on end while
hunched over a dress form isn't healthy at all. Of course there is another advantage and that is when
considering display purposes, it helps bring the products to the level of the shopper's eyes.

Measurements

Measurements for dress forms differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, if you want to purchase a
from for personal tailoring then you have to match your own to the dress form of your choosing.
However, if you wish to sew professionally, you have to take into account the fact that not everyone
has the same shapes and sizes so an adjustable form will probably be the better choice.

Dress form sizes can range from a size 1 to 20 and are available in male, female and child

form. ​Types of Dress Forms

There are quite a few types of dress forms you can choose from but it all boils down to your specific
needs and how much you are willing to invest in one.
Standard vs. Professional

Standard ​dress forms are the ones designed to have a visual impact, for its appearance and ability to
display items of clothing perfectly.

Professional ​forms are crafted purely for their function, to help the tailor design and modify clothes
efficiently. Professional forms come with a cast iron base. These kind of forms are created with the
help of papier mache or cardboard, padded with a layers of cotton wadding and covered in linen.

These can have a classic dressmaker form with a skirt cage or a full body complete with legs which is
called a full body form.

Both of them can be used in the context of retail and both can be used for sewing. The difference is
that a standard dress form is cheaper and will serve the retailer better while a professional one is
much more expensive and will serve a tailor better.

Adjustable Dress Forms

Adjustable sewing mannequins are a must have for professionals, although it can also be used for
personal tailoring. They are fantastic simply because they can replicate a real human body, curves and
all.

This kind of sewing mannequin has adjustment dials or wheels for the bust, waist, neck, back and hips.
The dials are turned and the parts of the body are mechanically expanded or retracted to the desired
measurements of the body. They can also dispose of adjustment keys, but this depends on the
manufacturer's design.

They can cover a wide variety of sizes and body shapes, offering the customer of the tailor a perfect
fit. It allows for better cutting, fitting, fabric work and so on, simply because they can offer a
personalized shape, according to customers' specific measurements.

Most of them come with a specialized pin holder and adjustment key holder on the top of the neck, as
well as hem markers to help tailors in their quest to create the perfect item of clothing.
A visual merchandiser, a fashion merchandiser or a retailer who wants to design a window and ensure
that the outfits are displayed perfectly, will choose an adjustable dress form, with the possibility of
pinning some excess fabric in the back to adjust the fit.

Sewing Mannequins / Tailor's dummy / Dressmaker Mannequin

Designed for professional use, these dress forms are crafted with a hard inner shell and are covered
with foam and fabric to provide a pinnable surface. These are in general torso-only dress forms that
can come with a single or a dual connectors, this referring to the pole that is found underneath it.
These connectors allow for the pole to be moved from the middle of the form to its side, to facilitate the
display of pants.

Tailor's dummies are the simplified version, that do not allow for the shape to be altered with the help
of dials. They come in one size, being perfect for personal dress making but appropriate for
professional use as well.

3D Printed Dress Form

Yes, you read correctly, the development of technology offers the option of creating a doppelganger.
By using a 3D scan of the body, an exact replica can be created with the help of a 3D printer. These
forms come as a section of the body that include everything from the mid thigh to the neck(without the
arms). This makes them perfect for every type of clothing, including pants. The fully adjustable stand is
a feature that helps you replicate your height.
This type of form is also able to reproduce fine details of the body, such as bellybuttons, collarbones,
muscle shapes and outlines, spine curves, and more subtleties of the human form. It is also not limited
by gender, height or weight.

This is rather expensive because of the processes involved and of the materials used, you can check
out the DittoForm to gain a better understanding. It is needless to say though that this kind of dress
form is perfect for personal tailoring.

Half-Scale Forms

These are perfect for beginners in sewing and tailoring and are a somewhat cheaper alternative
although it can't be used for full scale outfits. They can be used to create design prototypes, fabric
assortment and others. Some of these forms can have a pinnable cloth surface completely
manufactured with seams so students or hobbyists can practice their craft.

They can also be used as a decorative dress form in the house or in stores.

Decorative Dress Forms

Decorative dress forms serve a display purpose only. This includes wire dress forms, rattan dress
forms, those with printed covers and others that can be used for photo shoots by photographers, as
movie props, in exhibitions and trade shows, in window displays, by artists (sculptors, fashion
designers) and as home décor.

DIY: Duct Tape, Plaster Casting and Papier Mache Dress Forms

As expensive as some dress forms can be, there are also DIY options to help you make one for
personal tailoring. As fun as this might be to make it is not recommended for professional use and is
rather inappropriate for stores, unless you have a specific décor or window design in mind.
If you are interested in creating a ​duct tape dress form​, you can check out this tutorial from
Handimania which is rather easy to follow and make. Basically, you just have to get a few
supplies(duct tape, a stand, pillow filling or something else to stuff the form, cardboard, scissors and
so on) and a friend to help you out.

Plaster cast dress forms ​are more difficult to make than the duct tape forms and require more work
for a fine finish, but as an advantage over them, we have the fact that it is much more durable. What
you need for this kind of DIY form is: quite a few rolls of plaster bandages, expanding foam or foam
pads, polyurethane varnish or other sealants, cloth, scissors, gloves and so on. If you want to create
such a dress form, check out Jezebel's tutorial.

The last type of DIY dress forms is the one made from ​papier mache​. You might as well apply the
principles you learned in school while making papier mache projects. For this particular type of dress
form you will require paper tape, scissors, garbage bags, masking tape, cardboard and so on. It is not
as resistant as the previous ones, especially to water, so you have to pay attention. As a stand you can
use PVC pipes, cardboard tubes, old lamp stands and so on.
Fitting of Garments

When you create garments, one of the most important aspects that you should take care of is the fit. It
is known that the success of a garment depends a lot on its fit. But what is a well-fitted garment? Well,
it is that garment with the optimum amount of ease, so it is neither too tight nor too loose. Besides, the
seam lines need to follow the general silhouette of the body. When one takes on the garment, it hangs
or sets in a well-balanced manner, and it doesn’t have any sagging, wrinkles or poking out.

So let’s see how to make sure your garment is well-fitted. Just read below and you’ll find out some of
the basic things that you need to pay attention to when creating garments.

Standards to follow for a good fit

There are some factors that determine whether a garment has a good fit or not. These factors are:

∙ ​Ease
∙ ​Line
∙ ​Grain
∙ ​Set
∙ ​Balance

They are also known as standards for a good fit. One of the things that you should acknowledge is that
these factors are interrelated. Now let’s find out more information about these standards.

1. ​Ease

Ease represents the difference between the actual body measurement and the garment measurement
at a specific point. This amount is influenced by other factors, so it varies. Some of the factors that
influence this amount are the fashion, type of garment, and also the personal taste. If you create your
garment with the optimum amount of ease, then it will be of the right size.

Some of the evidence of insufficient ease are pulling or drawing across the shoulder blades, bust, and
hipline. In the case of excess ease, there will be folds across the loose area, and these folds give a
baggy appearance to the garment.

2. ​Line

There are certain lines that you should look for when you want to take care of the fitting. They are
silhouette seams, circumference seams, and design lines.

∙ ​The shoulder seam needs to be straight across the top of shoulder.

∙ ​The side seam needs to be straight and it must be half way between back and front. ​∙ ​The
circumference lines include neckline, waistline, hemline, and armhole. These lines need to create
smooth curves that follow the natural curves of the body. The neckline needs to fit well, which
means it shouldn’t present any pulling or gaping. Waistline and hemline need to be parallel to the
floor. The armhole needs to be oval and it shouldn’t curve too far into the bodice, nor extend too
far away from the natural joint.
∙ ​Make sure design lines are smooth and graceful. They include darts, pleats, gores, and yokes.

3. ​Grain

When you wear a garment, the fabric grain lines must fall correctly in the appropriate places on your
body.

∙ ​The lengthwise grain needs to be perpendicular to the floor at the center front and back of the
garment.
∙ ​In the sleeve, the lengthwise yarns need to hang vertically from the shoulder line to center of the
sleeve hem.
∙ ​The crosswise yarns need to be parallel to the floor across bust, waist, and upper arm of the
sleeve.

4. ​Set

If a garment has no undesirable wrinkles, it is considered to have a smooth set. Wrinkles are sloping
triangles that appear when the garment is being strained over some curve or bulge of the body.
 5. ​Balance

In order to obtain a good fit, the garment needs to look balanced from front to back, and from left to
right.
Fitting techniques

Now let’s see some fitting techniques that will help you create well-fitted garments.

For example, if you need to do the fittings for a blouse, and the fittings are done wearing the blouse
right side out, then you need to mark all the changes on the right side. For the markings, you will use
chalk, pencil or pins. You will only transfer the markings to the wrong side after taking off the blouse,
so you can make the necessary adjustments or alterations.

Usually, fitting is done on the right-hand part of the garment. You will then transfer all the changes
marked to the left-hand side, so you will do identical alterations on both sides. However, if any
imperfections appear, you will only take care of them during the second fitting.

If you need to shorten or lengthen a seam or dart, mark the termination point, using a pin.

If you need to adjust a seam at one end in order to create a tightening effect, take the extra amount
and pin on the right side. In case you need to loosen a seam at one end, rip the seam at that part and
then pin as a lapped seam or a plain seam, using pins applied on the right side.

Parts of a Dress Form

The best part about a professional dress form is all the useful markings that aid in designing. This
dress form has most of the essential marks plus a few awesome features.

1. Neckline ​This line helps you design your neckline. This is where the body meets the neck, so I
always lower the neckline it at least a little bit from this line. It’s so nice to have it marked for you so
you can get an even neckline.

2. Center Front Line ​Also center back line on the back.

3. Armplate ​The armplate is a metal plate that creates the armscye. This is useful when designing
around the arm, for both sleeved and sleeveless garments. The metal makes it easy to feel if there is
fabric on top, so you can be precise without pulling your hair out.

4. Bust Level ​The little dot at the breastbone indicates the level of the bust.

5. Princess Seam Lines​Allows you to design using princess seam panels. These markings are on the
back also.

6. Waistline ​The waistline is the smallest part of the torso.

7. Size ​Professional dress forms typically come in straight sizes.

8. Cage ​The cage is a must for designing skirts and dresses with skirts, especially for form-fitting
styles.

9. Foot Pedal ​Allows you to raise the form for different heights.
10. Side Seams ​These are raised on the form so you can feel it through your garment. This is
probably my favorite marking because making sure your garment drapes correctly is essential.

11. Hip ​Not all dress forms have a hip, this one does, but it’s not too big. The hip is technically 9
inches down from the waistline.