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Les Petits Macarons - Colorful French Confections To Make at Home (PDFDrive) PDF
Les Petits Macarons - Colorful French Confections To Make at Home (PDFDrive) PDF
L eS
COOKING / DESSERTS
L eS PETITS
“I thought I had to go to Paris to find these luscious confections,
8 8 PETITS
but now I have them in my own kitchen…. A must for serious bakers.”
SUSAN G. PURDY, author of Pie in the Sky
8 8
BAKERY-QUALITY MACARONS AT HOME! MACARONS
M acarons, the stuff of bakers’ candy-coated dreams,
have taken the world by storm and are demystified here for the home baker. With
dozens of flavor combinations, recipes are structured with three basic shell meth-
88
8888
8 8
Colorful French Confections to Make at Home
MACARONS
ods—French, Swiss, and Italian—plus one never-before-seen Easiest French Macaron Method.
Pick one that works for you, and go on to create French-inspired pastry magic with nothing Kathryn Gordon & Anne E. McBride
more than a mixer, an oven, and a piping bag.
Try shells flavored with pistachio, blackberry, coconut, and red velvet, filled with the likes of
sesame buttercream, strawberry-guava pâte de fruit, crunchy cacao nib ganache, and lemon
curd. Or go savory with shells like saffron, parsley, and ancho chile paired with fillings like
hummus, foie gras with black currant, and duck confit with port and fig. The options for cus-
tomization are endless, and the careful, detailed instruction is like a private baking class in your
very own kitchen! All recipes have been tested by students and teachers alike and are guaran-
teed to bring the flavors of France right to your door.
8888
Kathryn Gordon is a professional baking instructor and chef with sold-out classes at the Institute 88
GORDON
of Culinary Education in New York City. She lives in New Jersey.
&
Anne E. McBride is the co-author of three books and the director of the Experimental Cuisine
Collective at New York University. She lives in New Jersey.
8
McBRIDE
8
ISBN 978-0-7624-4258-4
Visit the authors at 51800
www.lespetitsmacarons.com
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www.runningpresscooks.com
9 780762 442584
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$21.00 in Canada Watch the video! PRESS
L eS
PETITS
MACARONS
Colorful French Confections
to Make at Home
Kathryn Gordon & Anne E. McBride
RU N N I N G P R E S S
PHILADELPHIA • LONDON
© 2011 by Kathryn Gordon and Anne E. McBride
Photographs © 2011 by Steve Legato
Published by Running Press,
A Member of the Perseus Books Group
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions
Printed in China
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ISBN 978-0-7624-4258-4
Library of Congress Control Number: 2010941544
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing
The publisher would like to thank: Crate & Barrel, King of Prussia, PA; Manor Home & Gifts,
Philadelphia, PA; Scarlett Alley, Philadelphia, PA; and Sur la Table, King of Prussia, PA;
for graciously loaning merchandise to be used in the photography.
FILLINGS 104
* C R E A M Y F I L L I N G S 128
* *
F R U I T - B A S E D F I L L I N G S 1 84 FAVORITE AMERICAN
*
C L A S S I C S 204 S A V O R Y F I L L I N G S 218
* F O R L E S S - T H A N - P E R F E C T M A C A R O N S 238
* *
T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G G U I D E 249
*
R E S O U R C E S 257
*
A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 261 I N D E X 264
all about macarons
7
all about macarons
Institute of Culinary Education in New York, where I had just begun working.
Macarons have become so popular that I now offer a series of those classes,
covering anything from savory to holiday macarons. I have also begun leading
a macaron walking tour, for which I take students to various New York pastry
shops. More recently, I have noticed more people asking about macarons
because they are gluten-free, providing those suffering from celiac disease or
gluten sensitivity with a treat they can consume without consequences.
The macaron should be one of the easiest cookies to make; after all, it only
includes four ingredients. It speaks to its complexity, then, and makes it even
more special, that top-ranked pastry chefs around the world can’t agree on
how to combine these ingredients to turn them into the footed, smooth-
shelled marvel we love. Different macaron production techniques have
evolved, primarily related to the meringue component. But my theory is sim-
ply that chefs learned to make a macaron where they first trained—as I did.
Under the “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it” theory, unless they encounter a per-
sistent issue, I think that most chefs have not thought much about what really
makes their favorite macaron method work, and simply believe their method
to be the best one. The one technique they will probably agree on is the pro-
longed folding required to incorporate all the ingredients, called macaronner
(more on this unusual technique in a moment).
About twelve years ago, I was privileged to become involved in the World Pas-
try Forum, an annual gathering of professional chefs. This unparalleled access
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les petits macarons
allowed me to interview every world-champion pastry chef I met about his or
her method, to figure out what truly works and what can be fixed at various
stages of the process. This book is a result of those discussions. It includes three
different base methods for meringues, along with all the tips, tricks, and trou-
bleshooting techniques I’ve ever come across. But one word of caution:
Although experienced bakers do occasionally switch their production method
(going from a French meringue to an Italian meringue base, for example), I
believe strongly that there is no single holy grail. When you find the meringue
procedure—and whatever additional tricks you might need—that works for you,
stay with that base method. You may have a “bad macaron day,” as even the best
pâtissiers confess to having. But the best approach is to practice that technique,
keep a diary of what you did, and evolve flavor variations off that base.
MACARON OR MACAROONS?
THE FRENCH-STYLE COOKIE (WHAT WE CALL THE PARISIAN MACARON,
but in France refers to all sorts of macarons) is spelled with only one “o,” and pro-
nounced mah-kah-rohn. The final syllable is a very nasal sound that doesn’t quite exist
in English, almost as if saying “round” but with lips tightly pursed, and the “nd” is silent.
No syllable is emphasized. The American macaroon, pronounced mah-kah-ROON,
refers most often to unleavened cookies made with sweetened coconut flakes or
with almond paste.
A Brief History
T
he lore of macarons often suggests that Catherine de’ Medici
brought them to France in 1533 when she married Henry II. Many
similar stories of imported foods and techniques revolve around
her and her Italian chefs, not all of them true, so accurate or not, we’ll accept
that this is part of the macaron’s myth.
The word macaron comes from the Italian maccherone or macaroni, which a
1650 volume, Les Origines de la Langue Françoise, defines as “a pasta dish with
cheese.” Macaron long referred not just to a cookie, but a savory preparation
as well, which seems to have consisted of lumps of flour-based “paste” cooked
with spices and grated cheese and served with a liquid. The Italian term itself
is of Greek origin, from the word for kneading or mixing, from which “cook”
and “baker” are then derived. Maccare, an Italian verb that signifies “to beat” or
“to pound,” is another related meaning. A 1673 French-English dictionary
defines macaron as “little Fritter-like Buns, or thick Losenges, compounded
of Sugar, Almonds, Rosewater, and Musk, pounded together, and baked with
gentle fire.”
Almond-based foodstuffs were popular in the Middle Ages already. Mac-
arons are often thought to have appeared in the eighth century in Venetian
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les petits macarons
monasteries (after almonds arrived in Italy with the Arabs), with some sources
also mentioning a French abbey in Cormery that supposedly began making
them in 791, even though some believe that this particular macaron emerged
only in the nineteenth century.
One way or another, a cookie made from almonds and sugar became popu-
lar in France, where various cities, such as Paris, Reims, Montmorillon,
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, and Amiens, went on to develop it into their own spe-
cialties. Nuns were often the driving force behind macarons, which they made
for both nutritional and commercial purposes (baked goods, honey, and
other such food products were a source of revenue for most monastic orders,
which had very limited ways of making money). Such is the case in Nancy,
another French city famous for its macarons, which are flatter than Parisian
macarons and don’t have a smooth surface. In the late eighteenth century, the
nuns of Les Dames du Saint Sacrement’s Convent, who were forbidden from
eating meat, started making macarons because they were nutritious. After the
closing of the convent at the French Revolution, two of the sisters began sell-
ing the macarons in order to make a living. They became legendary as “les
Soeurs Macarons,” (the Macaron Sisters) to the point that a street now bears
that name in Nancy.
By the middle of the seventeenth century, recipes for macarons had begun
appearing in French cookbooks. François Pierre de La Varenne’s Le Pâtissier
François, published in 1653, mentions macarons several times as elements of
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all about macarons
other recipes, seemingly to give them body (they continue to appear through
the nineteenth century at least). The 1692 Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les
Liqueurs, et les Fruits states that macarons are a combination of sweet almonds,
sugar, and egg white, and offers instructions that include flavoring the batter
with orange blossom water and icing them once baked, if desired. From that
point on, macarons appear regularly in cookbooks. And if nineteenth century
books about Paris are to be believed, by then the city was teeming with macaron
street vendors.
The macaron as we now best know it—two shells sandwiching a filling—is a
more recent invention. Ladurée, the famed Parisian tea salon and pastry shop
perhaps most associated with them today, was founded in 1862, but it was not
until the early twentieth century that Pierre Desfontaines, second cousin of
Louis Ernest Ladurée, had the idea of piping ganache on a shell and topping
it with another. It is now the ubiquitous way to sell and serve Parisian-style
macarons—called gerbet, a name that still appears today—around the globe, and
perhaps only the blue box of Tiffany’s rivals Ladurée’s elegant green box in the
gasp it might inspire.
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les petits macarons
WHAT SHOULD A PARISIAN
MACARON LOOK AND TASTE LIKE?
* the
A SLIGHTLY SHINY, THIN SHELL WITH A SLIGHT CRUNCH that resists
teeth for a second when you bite into it; it should not be so delicate that it melts
into the filling, or so thick that it is mostly crust;
* Aaron,
PROPORTIONAL, NARROW FOOT AROUND THE SHELL of the mac-
certainly not non-existent; and
* (excessive
AN INTERIOR THAT IS SOFT, MOIST, AND ONLY SLIGHTLY CHEWY
chewiness can be a sign of excessive baking time); the shell and filling,
eaten together, should not be excessively sweet.
13
all about macarons
14
les petits macarons
taught me to put them in a very low temperature oven immediately after piping, to
allow the skin to form in a dry environment. Then, when the skin has formed, I
increase the heat to a typical temperature and the macaron shells begin baking.
THE ANATOMY OF A MACARON
SKIN:
The hair’s width-thick crust of the macaron,
which forms as the piped shell dries in the oven.
FOOT:
A textured ring around the base of the shell, which forms
as moisture in the macaron turns to steam and rises.
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all about macarons
A
s we’ve established, macarons might have few ingredients, but
each one carries much importance in the complete baking process.
Here are some thoughts on each of the four main players, as well as on
the supporting cast that contributes to making perfect—or nearly perfect—
macarons.
Almond Flour
Almond flour, or almond meal, is simply almonds that are ground into an
extremely fine powder. The almonds are usually blanched (de-skinned)
before grinding, but not always. The whiter your almond flour, the whiter
your final macarons, but unblanched almond flour will result in macarons
that are just as tasty. Commercially milled flour is usually finer than home-
ground almonds, but never as fine as wheat flour. It should be very dry and
powdery when you rub some in your fingers. If one brand isn’t working for
you, or seems oily, try a different brand (see Resources, page 257, for mail-
order options if the ones you find locally are not yielding good results). It can
go rancid, so I divide it and store it in freezer-safe resealable plastic bags in the
freezer. Commercially ground pistachio and hazelnut flours are also available.
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les petits macarons
DRYING ALMOND FLOUR
SLIGHTLY WET OR OILY ALMOND FLOUR CAN CAUSE CRACKED MAC-
aron shells. If you store your flour in the refrigerator or freezer, drying it before
using—to remove any moisture from storage—will improve the structure and shape of
your macarons and reduce the risk of cracks.
Preheat the oven to 200ºF (95ºC).
Spread the almond flour on a baking sheet and bake it for 30 minutes. Remove the
flour from the oven and let it cool completely before proceeding with the recipe.
Confectioners’ Sugar
Confectioners’ sugar is one of the key elements of macarons. Its fine structure
means that it is completely incorporated into the ground nuts, creating what
is called tant-pour-tant in pastry: an equal percentage of almond flour and con-
fectioners’ sugar that is at the base of many cookies. It contributes to the mac-
aron’s smooth texture by dissolving quickly into egg whites.
American confectioners’ sugar contains cornstarch to keep it from clump-
ing. Certain French chefs import their own starch-free confectioners’ sugar
from France in order to make macarons here, but regular supermarket con-
fectioners’ sugar (used in all the recipes in this book) works just fine. Wrap any
leftover confectioners’ sugar tightly so that it does not clump up until your
next baking session, and store it at room temperature.
17
the four main ingredients
Granulated Sugar
Granulated sugar is the pure white form of sugar that is used to build the
meringue structure of the macaron in combination with egg whites. Some
chefs prefer to use superfine sugar instead, believing that the finer crystal size
helps form a stable meringue more quickly when combining with the water
and protein from the egg whites. The recipes here use regular granulated
sugar, but if you feel like experimenting, try using superfine sugar in French
or Swiss meringues (it won’t matter much for Italian meringue because the
sugar is cooked into a fully dissolved syrup).
Egg Whites
Egg whites provide the proteins necessary to the structure of macarons. Water
constitutes 90 percent of the egg white, and protein makes up the rest. When air
is beaten into it, it foams up. As Harold McGee explains it in On Food and Cooking,
the white’s proteins “unfold and bond to each other.” Aged egg whites, in which
some of the water has evaporated and proteins have thinned, foam more quickly
and generally produce smoother, more even macarons. See the Note on Egg
Whites (opposite) for details on aging your eggs before baking.
When whisking egg whites, a medium speed will result in more stability than
a meringue whipped quickly strictly on high speed. However, I always turn the
mixer speed up to high at the very end of the process for about three seconds,
to obtain the maximum volume before incorporating the dry ingredients.
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les petits macarons
NOTE ON EGG WHITES
until ready to bake. Remove them from the refrigerator two hours before baking, so
that they reach room temperature and can whip to a high volume. Measure the exact
amount of egg white needed before using, whisking them again if needed.
19
the four main ingredients
Supporting Ingredients
20
les petits macarons
of tartar in most situations, but if you have it, use it: the resulting meringue
will be firmer and more stable.
SALT: Salt acts as a flavor balancer and enhancer in nut-based recipes. I add
it in with the recipe’s other dry ingredients so it does not affect the foaming
power of the egg whites. I prefer fine sea salt for all baking, which easily dis-
solves in batters, and use salt from France because I have found it to be the
most flavorful. Baleine, a fine sea salt formed by natural evaporation, is
available in most grocery stores and sold in cylindrical blue canisters.
When flavor and texture both matter, such as with salted caramel fillings, you
need to use fleur de sel—“flower of the sea.” This salt is hand-raked off shal-
low clay beds near Brittany, a process that raises its price tag; it is a finishing
salt, meant to be added to a savory dish once it is cooked. When used in
caramels and ganaches, it is often stirred in, but can also be sprinkled on top
of a filling or a shell; its strong flavor and crunchy texture providing maximum
impact.
21
the four main ingredients
oring in the baking aisle of most supermarkets, but usually only in basic
colors. When we specify a type of color, such as mint green, we refer to the
colorings found in specialty baking stores, which carry a wide range of
types and shades of food colorings. You can use basic colorings instead;
the shells’ colors will just not be as subtle and your range of possible colors
might be more limited. I prefer gels to liquids, but either will work so use
what you like best or have on hand. Traditional light pastel colors can be
achieved with just a few drops of liquid or gel, but the deepest colors, par-
ticularly jewel-tone shades or dark solids, such as black, require powders.
It would take too much liquid coloring to achieve those results, which
would destabilize the structure of the meringue.
Add in the liquid, gel, or paste coloring towards the end of the macaronnage
stage (page 26), when the batter appears to be about two-thirds mixed. If you
add the food color too early, the air you are whisking into the batter will
lighten the color (for example, red may turn pink). It will also keep you from
overfolding the batter. Pulse powdered colors in the food processor together
with the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour at the beginning of the
process.
22
les petits macarons
with a ketchup-like consistency. They are sold in jars and exist in a wide
range of flavors, such as passion fruit, violet, and licorice. These com-
pounds are typically sold wholesale, but a number of retailers are now of-
fering quantities small enough for home bakers. See Resources, page 257,
for addresses. To use them, fold 3 tablespoons (60 grams) of the com-
pound into the macaron base (any method will do) just before it reaches
the macaronnage stage.
23
the four main ingredients
IN ALL THE RECIPES IN THIS BOOK, nut flours and confectioners’ sugar were
measured by firmly packing the ingredient into a measuring cup, as you would brown
sugar. The eggs used are large.
24
les petits macarons
PARCHMENT PAPER VS. SILICONE MATS: You can use parchment paper
and obtain great macarons. I prefer using silicone baking mats (available for
about $20 alongside baking equipment in most department and kitchenware
stores; Silpat is a popular brand), which disperse the heat of the oven more
evenly on the baking sheet and shield the bottom of the macarons better, since
they are thicker than parchment paper. These mats should not be cut or stored
folded, and are dishwasher safe. If possible, purchase at least two; this will
allow you to immediately pipe a new batch of macarons while the ones just out
of the oven cool on the mat.
Parchment paper will flap
around in a convection oven and
ruin the smooth shells of the
macarons. If you are baking in a
convection oven, pipe a dab of
batter under each of the four
corners of the parchment paper;
this will hold it in place. There is
no need to do that with silicone
baking mats, which are heavier.
25
before you bake
IN RECIPES THAT USE AN ELECTRIC MIXER—including the base recipes—
”medium” speed means medium on the high side, not low side, of mixer speeds. Speed
levels vary from machine to machine, but this will be between 4 and 6.
28
les petits macarons
4. Continue rotating the bowl and folding, so that in four folds you will have incorpo-
rated the ingredients in all four quadrants of the bowl.
PIPING TIPS: Piping macarons of different sizes onto the same baking sheet will
yield poor results, because little ones will be hard and dry before the large ones
are fully cooked. Even experienced production bakers often use a piping guide
under the parchment paper or silicone baking mat to ensure even piping.
We’vemade a downloadable guide available on our website, www.lespetits
macarons.com. You can also make your own: Draw one circle of the size desired,
and then use it as a stencil to draw circles on a sheet of paper the size of your bak-
ing sheet, drawing the circles about 1½ inches apart (to allow for spreading)
across and down. Photocopy your guide so that you always have one handy.
29
before you bake
A proper pastry bag will be the easiest tool
to use to pipe. You can buy disposable ones
in the baking aisle of most supermarkets, in
specialty baking stores, and in the cake dec-
orating aisle of craft stores. Resealable
plastic bags are harder to handle, but will
still work better than spoons. You can use
two teaspoons or a ½-inch scoop if you are
really averse to piping; the shells might not
be as smooth, however.
When making mini, ½-inch macarons,
cut a small,¼ -inch hole straight across the
tip of the pastry piping bag. For small
(1 inch or 3 centimeters) or large (2 inches
or 6 centimeters) macarons, you will get
the most consistent piping results with a
½-inch-wide piping tip. After a bit of
practice, you will also obtain great results
without the tip, by simply cutting a ½-inch
opening straight across the bag (a precise,
straight cut is key).
To refill the pastry bag with more batter
30
les petits macarons
cleanly and easily, open the bag up and put it in a measuring cup to hold it in
place. This will free up both your hands for refilling.
If you have more batter than will fit in your oven to bake at one time or to leave in
your pastry bag, cover it so that it does not dry out and form a skin. Place a small
piece of plastic wrap or waxed paper directly on the batter until you can pipe it.
BAKING TIPS: Professional kitchens abound with baking sheets, but that’s not
always the case with home kitchens. We’ve obtained the most consistent results
when baking macaron shells on two baking sheets. If your oven bakes unevenly
and your macarons consistently slope to one side, for example, invest in a
third baking sheet, since it will resolve that problem by properly dispersing the
heat that causes it. Rotating the baking sheets front to back as you increase the
oven temperature after 15 minutes and rotate them again halfway through the
second baking period, and even from the top to the bottom rack and vice versa
in extreme cases, also helps.
If you have enough baking sheets to bake two batches of macarons at once,
you may need to rotate them from top to bottom as well as front to back, if the
top batch turns darker than the bottom one.
COOLING AND REMOVAL: Macaron shells are very delicate and subject to
overheating, so after removing the baking sheets from the oven, immediately
slide the silicone mat or parchment paper onto a cooling rack, your kitchen
31
before you bake
counter, or wherever you can! Careful
steaming can be helpful to loosen the shells.
Lift the edge of the silicone mat or parch-
ment carefully with a dry towel, and immedi-
ately pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of water under
the mat or paper. Shake the baking sheet
quickly, to create steam under the whole sur-
face; this will help detach the macarons.
Let the macarons cool completely before
attempting to remove them, because they
are inclined to crack when warm. If you are
lucky, they lift up without problems. If they stick slightly, you may need a metal
off-set spatula to help slide them off by placing the spatula under the macaron
and applying downward pressure, without pushing up into the shell. If the
macarons appear very dry or are hard to remove from the parchment paper,
place them in the freezer for two hours or leave them out at room temperature
for up to one day before filling them.
FILLING TIPS: If you like more filling in your macaron, or are piping fillings
that are a little looser in texture and need to be secured, carefully make an inden-
tation in the underside of the shell by pushing it in with your thumb. You can
then pipe or spoon the filling in this space, giving it more real estate in the shell.
Spread thicker, slightly chunky fillings on the shells with a spoon or a butter
32
les petits macarons
knife. Smooth fillings can be piped: Spoon it into a pastry bag, only filling it
halfway, and cut a ½-inch opening at the tip (or use a ½-inch-wide piping
tip). Pipe the filling on half of the shells, then top with another shell, and twist
the sandwiched macaron slightly to secure the filling.
Most of the fillings in this book make 1 pint. Those with smaller yields are
rich enough that a smaller amount suffices to fill the macarons; are paired
with another filling; or need to be piped or spooned in smaller amounts, oth-
erwise the sandwiched shells would slide apart.
REFRIGERATING TIPS: Keep macarons, filled or unfilled, in an airtight
container in the refrigerator for up to three days. You can also wrap them
tightly in plastic wrap. Bring them to room temperature before eating them,
leaving them wrapped or boxed as they warm up to release any moisture that
may have collected on the shells.
FREEZING TIP: Macarons filled with ganache, buttercream, or ice cream
freeze very well—and taste delicious that way. They might even become a dan-
gerous addiction, particularly since the freezer will keep them available at all
times. Wrap them with plastic wrap in groups of six and put them in a con-
tainer so that they don’t get crushed. Store them in the freezer for up to one
month. When removing them from the freezer, let them thaw out in the con-
tainer, still wrapped. Moisture that is released as they warm up will cling to the
plastic wrap rather than to the macarons, and they will remain crispy. Don’t
freeze macarons filled with pastry cream or fruit-based fillings, which will
become too soggy when thawing out.
33
before you bake
Base Macaron Recipes
34
les petits macarons
of the other two methods (but makes for a stiffer meringue that can be harder
to pipe). Other than Kathryn’s Easiest French Macaron Method (page 35),
French meringue is the simplest one, since it requires minimal equipment
and no manipulation of hot sugar.
The degree to which the egg whites are pre-cooked—or not—varies within these
methods. That’s not critical, because the macarons will all fully bake in the oven,
regardless of how they start out. For all meringue methods, however, the most
important point is to get the meringue “right.” It shouldn’t be overwhipped
(which could result in cracked shells), or break down, which will make it diffi-
cult to incorporate the dry ingredients, resulting in low yield and/or spreading
issues. It is important to obtain the glossy, smooth, good-bodied meringue with
a firm peak that forms the infrastructure of the macaron.
You will find the base recipes to be extremely detailed. It does not mean that
making macarons is beyond the reach of anyone but the most accomplished
pastry chef—on the contrary—but rather, we want to share with you all the tricks
learned through more than fifteen years of making macarons.
THE FIRST TIME YOU MAKE MACARONS AT HOME, pipe and bake just a
couple once your batter is ready. This will allow you to troubleshoot any oven or bat-
ter issues before baking the full batch. If they do not bake perfectly, consult the Trou-
bleshooting Guide, page 249.
35
base macaron recipes
Preparation
EQUIPMENT
2 baking sheets
Silicone mats or parchment paper
Food processor
Fine-mesh strainer
Waxed paper
Hand whisk
Electric mixer with whisk and paddle attachments
Candy thermometer
Heatproof spatula
Pastry bag with 1⁄2-inch round tip (or new disposable pastry bag)
Cooling rack
36
les petits macarons
P reheat the oven to 200ºF (95ºC). Stack 2 (18 x 13-inch) baking
sheets on top of one another. Line the top baking sheet with a silicone
mat or parchment paper. Cut additional sheets of parchment paper, if
using, at the dimensions of the baking sheet to pipe additional batches. Place
a piping guide (see page 29) under the silicone mat or parchment paper.
38
les petits macarons
SUMMARY OF BAKING TIMES BY SIZE
MINIS (1⁄2 inch or 1 centimeter): 200ºF (105ºC) for 15 minutes. Increase the heat to
350ºF (175ºC) and bake for another 6 minutes.
SMALL (1 inch or 3 centimeters): 200ºF (105ºC) for 15 minutes. Increase the heat to
350ºF (175ºC) and bake for another 9 minutes.
LARGE (2 inches or 6 centimeters): 200ºF (105ºC) for 15 minutes. Increase the heat
to 350ºF (175ºC) and bake for another 9 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300ºF (150ºC)
and bake for 7 to 8 more minutes.
39
base macaron recipes
BASE MACARON RECIPE:
THE BEFORE YOU BAKE SECTION, pages 24 to 33, includes detailed tech-
niques for all the steps of the mixing, piping, baking, cooling, filling, and storing
processes. Troubleshooting information is on pages 249 to 256.
40
les petits macarons
Makes 80 small (1-inch) shells,
enough for 40 sandwiched macarons
AFTER SETTING UP FOR BAKING (page 38), place the almond flour, confectioners’
sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 4 times for 3 seconds each to
combine them. Scrape the sides of the bowl in between pulses with a spatula. Sift with a
fine-mesh strainer onto a sheet of waxed paper. (If you simply sift the flour and sugar
together without processing them first, the macaron will not be as smooth-skinned.)
41
french meringue method
MAKING THE FRENCH MERINGUE
With a hand whisk, whisk together the powdered egg whites and granulated sugar in the
bowl of an electric mixer. Whisk in the egg whites and cream of tartar until the mixture is
homogenous.
Set the bowl and whisk attachment on the mixer and whisk on medium speed until the
meringue is glossy and forms stiff peaks, about 11 minutes.
Once the meringue reaches stiff peaks (the whisk will leave marks in the meringue as it
42
les petits macarons
goes around in the bowl) and resembles marshmallow fluff, stop the mixer. Turn the bowl
upside down to check that you have reached the right stage: the meringue should not slip
in the bowl (see photo below).
43
french meringue method
BASE MACARON RECIPE:
I
talian meringue is the strongest of the three methods presented here
because it creates the most stable and consistent structure for the macaron
shells. If you’ve made shells with a French meringue and they spread too
much, or you think that the Swiss meringue is too stiff to pipe, try this
method. As the sugar syrup cooks to the soft-ball stage, the water evaporates.
The syrup continues to cook, even off the heat, as it is slowly and steadily driz-
zled into the egg whites. It thus cooks the egg whites, resulting in a very strong
protein structure. Italian meringue-based shells don’t spread as much, for
that reason. Because the sugar is fully melted into the batter, they also have the
highest shine.
THE BEFORE YOU BAKE SECTION, pages 24 to 33, includes detailed tech-
niques for all the steps of the mixing, piping, baking, cooling, filling, and storing
processes. Troubleshooting information is on pages 249 to 256.
45
italian meringue method
Makes 80 small (1-inch) shells,
enough for 40 sandwiched macarons
AFTER SETTING UP FOR BAKING (page 38), place the almond flour, confectioners’
sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 4 times for 3 seconds each to
combine them. Scrape the sides of the bowl in between pulses with a spatula. Sift with a
fine-mesh strainer onto a sheet of waxed paper. (If you simply sift the flour and sugar
together without processing them first, the macaron will not be as smooth-skinned.)
46
les petits macarons
MAKING THE ITALIAN MERINGUE
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, begin to whisk the egg
whites and cream of tartar on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes.
Reduce the speed to low if the egg whites are at soft peaks before the syrup is ready.
While the egg whites are whipping, heat the granulated sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) of
water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. If sugar crys-
tals stick to the edges of the pan, use a small pastry brush dipped in water to remove them.
Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and cook until the sugar reaches 235ºF (113ºC),
closely monitoring it. If using food coloring, add it to the syrup at 230ºF (110ºC).
47
italian meringue method
THE MERINGUE DOESN’T HAVE TO COOL COMPLETELY before you begin
folding; in fact, the shells may form their skin better if you start with a slightly warm
meringue.
When the sugar syrup reaches 235ºF (113ºC), quickly and steadily pour the syrup down
the side of the mixer bowl, with the mixer running at medium speed. Rest the lip of the
saucepan on the side of the bowl so the sugar does not hit the whisk attachment and splat-
ter (it should run gradually down the side of the bowl). Continue whisking until stiff peaks
form and the meringue is lukewarm and glossy, about 4 minutes. Do not overwhip the
meringue or the feet of the macarons may not form correctly. Turn the bowl upside down
to check that you have reached the right stage: the meringue should not slip in the bowl
(see photo, page 000).
NOTE: Once it reaches the right temperature, the syrup will be bubbling (large and small
bubbles) throughout the entire surface of the pan. If you do not own a candy thermome-
ter, check the temperature by dropping a few drops of syrup into ice water. The syrup
should feel a bit sticky and form a soft ball in the water. This is also called the soft-ball test
or stage.
49
italian meringue method
BASE MACARON RECIPE:
THE BEFORE YOU BAKE SECTION, pages 24 to 33, includes detailed techniques
for all the steps of the mixing, piping, baking, cooling, filling, and storing processes.
Troubleshooting information is on pages 249 to 256.
51
swis s meringue method
Makes 80 small (1-inch) shells,
enough for 40 sandwiched macarons
AFTER SETTING UP FOR BAKING (page 38), place the almond flour, confectioners’
sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 4 times for 3 seconds each to
combine them. Scrape the sides of the bowl in between pulses with a spatula. Sift with a
fine-mesh strainer onto a sheet of waxed paper. (If you simply sift the flour and sugar
together without processing them first, the macaron will not be as smooth-skinned.)
52
les petits macarons
water. Clip a candy thermometer to the
bowl, then whisk vigorously until the mixture
reaches 130ºF (55ºC), 1 to 2 minutes.
54
les petits macarons
BASE MACARON RECIPE:
Kathryn’s Easiest
French Macaron Method
T
ry the Easiest French method when you are pressed for time or
when baking with kids. The results are very rewarding: These shells turn
out just as beautiful (if a little flatter) and tasty as those made with tradi-
tional methods. The only downside is that they need to bake a few minutes
longer or they will be too chewy. This method works best for one-inch shells
(don’t try it with larger ones, which won’t form good feet) baked on a silicone
mat rather than parchment paper.
COMPILING ALL THE TRICKS AND TIPS THAT I LEARNED OVER THE YEARS
for this book made me think a lot about the theory behind macarons. Some sources
say that they leaven with air, which never made sense to me because of the unusually
long amount of time the macaronnage stage takes, compared to cakes leavened by
air, such as angel food cake or genoise. Much of the air added during the process is
55
kathryn’s easiest french macaron method
removed when whipping the meringue to glossy peaks. Slamming the baking sheets
before baking macarons also removes air pockets. I concluded that steam (as the
water contained in the egg whites—about 90 percent of their structure—evaporates)
plays just as major, if not greater, role as a leavener.
Applying standard baking theory based on other products that rise with steam
(cream puffs, for example), I was able to develop this reliable method, which does not
require actually making any meringue.
THE BEFORE YOU BAKE SECTION, pages 24 to 33, includes detailed techniques
for all the steps of the mixing, piping, baking, cooling, filling, and storing processes.
Troubleshooting information is on pages 249 to 256.
Makes 80 small (1-inch) macarons,
enough for 40 sandwiched macarons
56
les petits macarons
After setting up for baking (page 38), place the almond flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt
in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 4 times for 3 seconds each to combine them.
Scrape the sides of the bowl in between pulses with a spatula. Add the granulated sugar
and powdered egg white, and repeat the pulsing 4 more times. Sift with a fine-mesh
strainer into a medium bowl. (If you simply sift the flour and sugar together without pro-
cessing them first, the macaron will not be as smooth-skinned.)
57
kathryn’s easiest french macaron method
Cover the batter with plastic wrap placed
directly over it (not on top of the bowl), to
prevent a skin from forming, and let the bat-
ter sit 1 hour at room temperature. It will be
thick, but loosen somewhat in the hour.
To pipe, bake, and fill the finished shells,
follow the instructions on page 49.
58
les petits macarons
Baking
PIPING AND BAKING MACARON SHELLS
Spoon the batter in a pastry bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch round tip (alternatively, cut a 1⁄2-inch
opening in the bag). Fill the bag halfway, leaving the rest of the meringue in the bowl while
piping; cover it with plastic wrap while a batch is in the oven. If you overfill the bag, you will
not be able to squeeze it hard enough in order to pipe even, tail-less shells. Twist the top
of the bag to close.
baking
59
Pipe the meringue on the silicone mat or
parchment-lined baking sheet into quarter-
size mounds, 11⁄2 inches apart from one
another. Holding the tip of the bag at a
90-degree angle 1⁄4-inch above the baking
sheet, firmly squeeze it until the batter fills
the circle on the piping guide and is about
1
⁄4-inch high. Do not move the bag while
squeezing out the batter. As soon as you
have reached the desired size, completely
release the pressure on the bag and twist
your wrist in a clockwise direction, without
lifting it up. Once the batter stops flowing,
stop squeezing the bag, lift, and move onto
the next circle on the piping guide. Pro-
longed pressure on the batter and/or quick
lifting results in “tails” (or peaks) on the shell,
which might not settle out.
Pipe a test shell or two to double-check
the viscosity of the batter. Firmly slam the
baking sheets down to remove excess air
and see if the three-dimensional tails settle
out, lifting the sheets about 6 inches above
the table, about 6 times (you may see some
air bubbles rise). Don’t be afraid to really
slam them. If the tails do not settle and the
60
les petits macarons
surface of the macaron is not smooth, squeeze the batter back into the bowl, then imme-
diately refill the pastry bag. Continue piping, then slam the baking sheets again. This elim-
inates excess air or stiffness from the batter without requiring additional folding (which
can cause cracking). Slide out the piping guide to use again.
Bake the French, Italian, and Swiss mer-
ingue shells at 200ºF (95ºC) for 15 minutes
to dry out the shells. Increase the oven tem-
perature to 350ºF (175ºC) and bake for an
additional 9 minutes, until the foot and edge
of the shells feel firm and they just come off
the parchment paper if you forcibly lift
them. For Kathryn’s Easiest French shells,
bake at 200ºF (95ºC) for 15 minutes.
Increase the temperature to 350ºF (175ºC)
and bake for an additional 11 minutes, rotat-
ing after 6 minutes. Check that the center of
the shells are risen; if they have any slight
indentation, appear to be darker in their
centers, or have a wrinkled skin after 11
minutes, reduce the heat to 300°F (150ºC) and continue baking for up to 5 more minutes.
Bake until the feet of the shell feel firm and the shells can just come off the parchment paper
if you lift them.
If the shells are darkening too quickly, put a wooden spoon in the door of the oven to
prop it slightly open and lessen the heat. If you do not use food coloring, the macarons
should remain very pale, and not turn golden. While that first batch of macarons bakes,
keep any remaining batter in the pastry bag to pipe additional batches.
baking
61
Your oven will not truly be 350ºF (175ºC)
when you raise the temperature—it takes
time to reach that from the initial 200ºF
(95ºC). The increase in heat that takes place
as the oven makes its way toward 350ºF
(175ºC) is, however, enough to bake the
shells.
Remove the shells from the oven and
lower the oven temperature to 200ºF
(95ºC). Slide the silicone mat or parchment
paper onto a cooling rack and let the shells
cool completely, about 1 hour. Pipe and
bake the next pan.
62
les petits macarons
FILLING
To fill the cooled shells, turn them over, so that their flat side faces you. Pipe the filling on
half the shells, in mounds about 1⁄2-inch high, leaving 1⁄4 inch to the edges. Place another
shell of matching size flat-side down onto the filling to make a sandwich. Twist lightly to
sandwich them together securely. Store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator
for up to three days, or freeze them for up to three weeks.
filling
63
Sweet Shells
WALNUT
* PECAN
* HAZELNUT
CASHEW
* MACADAMIA
* COCONUT
* PISTACHIO
* VANILLA
COCOA
* Variations: Cocoa with Cocoa Nibs;
Red Velvet
* ESPRESSO
* ORANGE
*
LIME
* LEMON-POPPYSEED
*
Variation: L emon
* LICORICE
* MINT
* BLACKBERRY
* STRAWBERRY
*
PASSION FRUIT
* CINNAMON
* CARDAMOM
* FIVE-SPICE
*
*
GINGER GREEN TEA
* MARIGOLD
* LAVENDER
* ROSE
* VIOLET
M acaron shells with no flavoring or color added are not plain: They
have a wonderful almond taste that make them delectable on their own,
especially early on as you make your first batches and get familiar with
the process. You will soon want to experiment and expand your assortment of
shells, however. The following recipes offer an array of flavors and colors with
which you can play. The proportions are enough to flavor one full batch of
your favorite base method, to make 80 small one-inch shells, or 40 sand-
wiched macarons.
66
les petits macarons
MAKE YOUR OWN NUT FLOUR
IF GROUND FOR TOO LONG, NUTS TURN INTO PASTE BECAUSE OF THEIR
high oil content. Home equipment, like a food processor, often lacks the power to rapidly
turn whole nuts into nut flour. But it is possible and you will achieve good results for these
recipes by starting with whole nuts and using a few tips.
* Ifture.
the nuts were stored in the refrigerator or freezer, bring them to room tempera-
Make sure that they are not wet or cold before proceeding.
* no
Scrape the sides of the bowl in between every 4 pulses with a rubber spatula so that
nuts stick to the sides and all the nuts grind evenly.
* Measure
When the nuts have turned into a fine flour, sift them onto a piece of waxed paper.
to ensure that you have enough nuts for the recipe. If not, repeat the above
steps.
* them
º º
Preheat the oven to 200 F (95 C) and spread the ground nuts on a baking sheet. Dry
in the oven for 30 minutes, then let them cool completely.
* Proceed with the recipe as written. Grinding the resulting flour with the confection-
ers’ sugar will ensure that it is fine enough, even if it was still a bit coarse when com-
ing out of the oven.
67
sweet shells
IN A NUTSHELL:
WALNUT, PECAN, HAZELNUT, CASHEW,
MACADAMIA, and COCONUT MACARONS
1 heaping cup plus 1 tablespoon (165 grams) whole macadamias
21⁄4 cups (165 grams) dried unsweetened flaked coconut
For instructions on grinding your own nuts, see page 67.
68
les petits macarons
Pistachio flour is also available commer-
cially through wholesalers (see Resources, page 257). You can substitute
pistachio flour for the almond flour in your favorite base recipe (see page
34). These pale green shells pair well with Crunchy Cocoa Nib Ganache
(page 107).
Prepare your favorite base recipe (page 34), substituting pistachio flour for
the almond flour. Fold in the food coloring at the macaronnage stage.
If desired, top half of the shells with 1 pistachio nut immediately after
piping them.
71
sweet shells
These macarons are not only perfumed with
vanilla, they also become speckled, thanks to the seeds of the vanilla bean.
They are perhaps the most ubiquitous flavor of shells, other than the sim-
ple almond ones, and can be paired with nearly all the fillings in this book.
You can create a dramatic color contrast with the bright purple Cassis-
White Chocolate Ganache (page 124).
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use the back of a paring knife to
scrape out the seeds. Stir them into the granulated sugar used for the base
recipe, and rub the bean into the sugar to extract as many seeds as possible.
Proceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34).
72
les petits macarons
Cocoa macarons need to bake 2 minutes
longer than the base recipe directs. Try them with Basil Buttercream (page
136) or Rosemary Caramel (page 162).
NOTE: Since cocoa powder bakes differently than nut flours do, first try
these shells with the French meringue method. With practice, they can be
made with all three meringue methods.
75
sweet shells
Variation: Red Velvet
Use these to make Red Velvet Cake Macarons (page 208), but you can also
fill them with buttercreams or ice milks.
Reduce the amount of cocoa powder to 2 tablespoons plus 11⁄2 teaspoons
(17.5 grams) and add 5 drops of red liquid food coloring (4 drops if using gel)
at the macaronnage stage.
Add the espresso powder to the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar once
they are sifted. Proceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34).
Fold in the food coloring at the macaronnage stage.
76
les petits macarons
Some of my favorite pairings for this fla-
vored shell are Orange Cream (page 145), Earl Grey Ganache (page 123),
Apricot-Ginger-Chocolate Caramel (page 170), and Duck Confit with Port
and Figs (page 234). Using orange oil will give the macarons more of a zip
than zest will, but either option is fine.
77
sweet shells
Other than Key Lime with Marshmallow
(page 212), these shells are perfect for Chile-Pineapple-Kumquat Mar-
malade (page 196) or Buttermilk Ice Milk (page 178).
Variation: Lemon
Omit the poppyseeds for a plain lemon flavor.
78
les petits macarons
This shell has a beautiful, dramatic jet-black
color that will further deepen if you let the batter sit, covered, for 30 min-
utes before piping the shells. I like to pair it with a simple Vanilla Butter-
cream (page 131) or Pear Cream (page 148), for contrasting color effects.
For true licorice lovers, pair it with Anise Ice Milk (page 177).
Prepare your favorite base recipe (page 34), pulsing the powdered coloring
in the food processor with the other dry ingredients.
Fold in the licorice compound at the macaronnage stage.
79
sweet shells
This bright green shell pairs well with gan-
aches (pages 104 to 127, particularly with Chocolate-Mint), as well as
Fudgesicle Ice Milk (page 179).
FLAVOR COMPOUNDS
80
les petits macarons
Pair these shells with Pistachio Buttercream
(page 134), Blackberry Jelly (page 198), or Lemon Curd (page 149).
81
sweet shells
For the ultimate ice cream macaron, pair
these with Almond Ice Milk (page 176). Vanilla Buttercream (page 131) also
works well, as does Strawberry–Guava Pâte de Fruit (page 200).
82
les petits macarons
Try these shells with Apricot–Passion Pâte
de Fruit (page 199) and Passion Fruit Pastry Cream (page 155).
83
sweet shells
Cinnamon is one of the most beloved flavors
in American baked goods. I like to keep things traditional and use these
shells with fillings such as Cinnamon-Apple Butter with Calvados (page
187) or Oatmeal Cookie Buttercream (page 141).
Sift the cinnamon with the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar, then pro-
ceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34).
Sift the cardamom with the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar, then pro-
ceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34).
84
les petits macarons
Pear Cream (page 148), Crunchy Cacao Nib
Ganache (page 107), or Maple Buttercream (page 133) are among the fill-
ings I most like to pair with these shells.
85
sweet shells
Green tea powder is sold as matcha in tea
shops around the country and online (see Resources, page 257). It has a
pale green color and an herbal taste that mellows out when distributed
throughout the almond flour and sugar. Pair these shells with Green Tea
and White Chocolate Ganache (page 115), Sesame Buttercream (page
139), or Almond Ice Milk (page 176).
Sift the matcha powder with the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar, then
proceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34).
Fold in the food coloring at the macaronnage stage.
86
les petits macarons
If you grow marigolds and do not use pesti-
cides on them, they will be perfect for cooking. We have never seen them
available commercially, unlike rose petals and lavender flowers, so this
recipe is best suited to gardeners—or their friends. You can use other types
of organically grown flowers as long as you ensure that they are edible.
What’s Cooking America (www.whatscookingamerica.net) offers a com-
plete list of edible plants. Pair them with Vanilla Buttercream (page 131),
Orange–Buttermilk Ice Milk (page 178), or Orange Cream (page 145).
88
les petits macarons
These macarons look even prettier if only
one lavender blossom is placed on each shell. Use tweezers—and a bit of
patience—to arrange them individually at the center of the shell. Lavender
has a very strong, flowery taste, so it takes very little of it to perfume an
entire batch of macarons. You can buy organic edible lavender online (see
Resources, page 257) if your local garden store doesn’t carry it; only use
culinary-quality lavender, not the type sold in craft stores. Pair these shells
with Blackberry Jelly (page 198) or Earl Grey Ganache (page 123).
89
sweet shells
You can buy organic edible rose petals on-
line (see Resources, page 257) if your local garden store doesn’t carry them,
or you can use your own roses if you garden without pesticides. Do not use
petals sold in craft stores, which are not of culinary quality. Pluck the petals
and spread them on a towel to dry for about 10 days. While it has a pro-
nounced herbal flavor, this shell is more versatile than you might imagine.
It pairs well with most ganaches, frozen fillings, and fruit fillings.
91
sweet shells
These purple shells pair well with Vanilla
Buttercream (page 131). You can also accentuate the flowery effect with
Rose-Raspberry Ganache (page 110), and top half of the shells with can-
died violet petals before baking. You can find those in specialty baking
stores and most gourmet grocery stores.
92
les petits macarons
Savory Shells
PARSLEY
* SAFFRON
*
PINK PEPPERCORN
* V ariation: B lack P epper
* ANCHO CHILE
WASABI
* SESAME
*
Macarons are no longer sweet-only treats, and with
a little imagination, they can be paired with fillings that contain meat, vegeta-
bles, or cheese. But these savory shells work with sweet fillings, too, allowing
for some truly creative combinations. Dare to experiment: try a buttercream
filling in a saffron shell, an ice milk in an ancho chile shell, or a luxurious
ganache to temper the heat of a wasabi shell.
Follow a base recipe with the proper modifications (see below), and add your
favorite flavor from the ones listed here. The proportions are enough to fla-
vor one full batch of your favorite base method, to make 80 small one-inch
shells, or 40 sandwiched macarons.
SAVORY SHELL VARIATION
95
savory shells
The ideal ingredient to make these parsley
macarons is a parsley powder sold by Atlantic Spice (see Resources, page
257). Dried parsley will work as well if you first grind it to a powder in a
spice grinder. Use these shells with Foie Gras with Black Currant Gastrique
(page 231).
IMAGE ON LEFT: Parsley and Pink Peppercorn Shells with Chèvre Rosemary
97
savory shells
These shells are beautifully adorned with
bright yellow speckles, thanks to the saffron. Use them with Tomato Con-
fit (page 226) or Blood Orange Caramel (page 165).
Gently stir the saffron into the sifted almond flour and confectioners’ sugar,
then proceed with your favorite base recipe (page 34), decreasing the gran-
ulated sugar to 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (130 grams) and increasing the
fine sea salt to 1⁄4 teaspoon (1 gram).
98
les petits macarons
Try these paired with Chèvre-Rosemary
(page 222) for a savory twist, or White-Chocolate-Grapefruit Ganache
(page 116), for example.
101
savory shells
Use this shell with the Chicken Mole filling
(page 229) or Crunchy Cacao Nib Ganache (page 107).
Follow your favorite base recipe (page 34), decreasing the granulated sugar
to 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (130 grams) and increasing the fine sea salt
to1⁄4 teaspoon (1 gram).
After piping the macarons, evenly sprinkle a few sesame seeds of each
kind on top of each shell. Bake as directed.
102
les petits macarons
As you would expect from wasabi, these shells
have a slow-rising spiciness to them that make them particularly fitted for
chocolate fillings (pages 104 to 119), or very fresh ones, such as ice milks
(pages 174 to 183). Fabian Rimann, the pastry chef/owner of Max Choco-
latier in Lucerne, Switerzland, introduced this flavor combination to me one
year at the World Pastry Championship, and I have been unable to it com-
bination out of my head since. You will find wasabi powder in the Asian
product aisle of gourmet food stores or online (see Resources, page 257).
103
savory shells
Ganache Fillings
CRUNCHY CACAO NIB
* CINNAMON CAPPUCCINO WITH
CHOCOLATE-CINNAMON CRUNCH
* ROSE-RASPBERRY
*
CHOCOLATE-MINT
* V ariation: C hocolate- T arragon
*
GREEN TEA AND WHITE CHOCOLATE
* WHITE
CHOCOLATE–GRAPEFRUIT
* LEMON–STAR ANISE
* CHAI
* LAPSANG SOUCHONG WITH WHISKEY
*
Variation: Earl Grey
* CASSIS–WHITE CHOCOLATE
*
CRUNCHY HAZELNUT GIANDUJA
Ganache is the unctuous, smooth result of mixing
cream with dark, milk, or even white chocolate. It can be flavored with a wide
variety of ingredients, such as herbs, liqueurs, spices, and fruits. It often
includes softened butter, for additional richness, or a sugar syrup for a more
stable texture. There are many ways to make ganache. The recipes here make
use of a food processor, to create the complete emulsion of the ingredients
and the best possible texture for a macaron filling.
POURING GANACHES INTO A SHALLOW PAN allows them to cool faster. You
can use a casserole dish or a cake pan. When ready to pipe, it will have the texture of
peanut butter.
PIPING GANACHE
SPOON THE GANACHE INTO A PASTRY BAG AND CUT A 1⁄2-INCH OPEN-
ing at the tip (or use a 1⁄2-inch tip). Pipe a small amount of ganache, about 1⁄2-inch thick,
in a circular shape, on the flat sides of the shells. Don’t let the ganache go all the way to
the edges of the macaron. Top with another shell, twisting it slightly to secure the fill-
ing, and let set in the refrigerator, about 10 minutes.
Ganache will thicken as it cools, so pipe quickly.
105
ganache fillings
Cacao nibs are tiny pieces of a roasted cacao
bean. Their chocolate flavor is very pronounced—and unsweetened. Pair
this ganache with Wasabi (page 103), or Ancho Chile (page 102) shells.
107
ganache fillings
Rather than using cocoa powder, I like to
sprinkle cinnamon on top of my cappuccino. It gives it a hint of sweetness
that makes the drink feel more like a treat. Pair this ganache with Espresso
(page 76), Cinnamon (page 84), or Cocoa (page 75) shells.
Bring the corn syrup, cream, cinnamon sticks, and espresso powder to a boil
in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let
the cinnamon infuse for 1 hour.
Pulse the chocolate in a food processor to chop into small pieces.
Remove the cinnamon sticks from the cream, bring the mixture back to a
boil over medium-high heat, and immediately pour it over the chocolate in
the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the chocolate melt completely, then
pulse until the mixture is completely smooth, homogeneous, and shiny.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan and stir in the chocolate-cinnamon
108
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crunch if using. Let it cool at room temperature until it becomes pipeable, about 15 min-
utes, stirring occasionally. To check, periodically use a small spoon to scoop out some of
the ganache. If it holds a ball-like shape, it is ready. This ganache can be kept covered and
refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Chocolate-Cinnamon Crunch
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
3 ounces (90 grams) semisweet chocolate, chopped
½ teaspoon (1.5 gram) ground cinnamon
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ganache fillings
Rose and raspberry are a perfect summer com-
bination, when both might even abound in your garden. I don’t grow rasp-
berries, but some of my neighbors do and are always happy to share their
bounty, especially if they get to enjoy some of the macarons afterward.
Pair this filling with Rose (page 91) or Strawberry (page 82) shells. You can
purchase raspberry purée and rose compound—a thicker flavoring agent—
online (see Resources, page 257). You can also use frozen raspberries: let
them thaw, then puree them and strain them through a fine-mesh strainer
so that the purée is completely smooth. The strength of a compound can
vary from one manufacturer to the next, so taste your ganache and add
more compound (about 1⁄2 teaspoon [3.5 grams] at a time) if you want a
more pronounced flavor.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several
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times until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
Bring the corn syrup, cream, and raspberry purée to a boil in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Immediately pour it over the chocolate in the food processor. Wait 1
minute to let the chocolate melt completely, then pulse until the mixture is completely
smooth. With the food processor running, add the butter, then the rose compound, then
the framboise, and pulse until everything is completely incorporated and the ganache is
homogeneous and shiny.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan, and let it cool at room temperature until it
becomes pipeable, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. To check, periodically use a
small spoon to scoop out some of the ganache. If it holds a ball-like shape, it is ready. This
ganache can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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I prefer using mint leaves in a ganache rather
than extract; it gives it a more natural, fresh flavor. Pair it with Mint (page
80), Cocoa (page 75), or Lemon (page 78) shells. Around the holidays, I like
to then roll the filled macarons in peppermint that I crush with a rolling pin
(place in a bag first to avoid making a mess).
Bring the cream, corn syrup, and mint to a boil in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let the mint infuse for 1 hour.
Pour the mixture into a blender (or use an immersion blender directly in the
pan) and blend until it is smooth, 1 minute.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times
until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
(continued)
Variation: Chocolate-Tarragon
This ganache does not keep because its flavor changes over time; immediately use it to fill
macarons, and eat them within 1 day.
Replace the mint with 3 packed tablespoons (11 grams) tarragon leaves, increase the
light corn syrup to 3 tablespoons, and replace the milk chocolate with bittersweet choco-
late.
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Matcha is green tea powder, which you can
find in tea stores and online (see Resources, page 257). The deep green
color is particularly pretty with Cocoa (page 75) or Almond (page 40) shells,
and complementary to Green Tea Shells (page 86).
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This filling started out as a tart I created for
one of my classes at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. It
makes for a stunning macaron when paired with Pink Peppercorn Shells
(page 000). White chocolate can be overly sweet, so I like to combine it with
ingredients that will cut through that sweetness and make for a well-bal-
anced dessert. It also takes longer to set than darker chocolates.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times
until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
Bring the cream, grapefruit zest, and peppercorns to a boil in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let the mixture
infuse for 10 minutes. Strain out the zest and peppercorns, then bring the
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mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat. Immediately pour it over the chocolate in
the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the chocolate melt completely, then pulse until
the mixture is completely smooth. Add the butter and pulse until it is completely incor-
porated and the ganache is homogeneous and shiny, then, with the food processor run-
ning, add in the grapefruit juice and the vanilla extract.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan, and let it cool at room temperature until it
becomes pipeable, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. To check, periodically use a
small spoon to scoop out some of the ganache. If it holds a ball-like shape, it is ready. This
ganache can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
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Anne often adds a star anise and a slice of
lemon to a cup of black tea—the spicy and tart combination is heavenly.
You can further accentuate the licorice taste of star anise by pairing this
filling with Licorice Shells (page 79). Lemon Shells (page 78) are another
option.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times
until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
Bring the cream, corn syrup, lemon zest, and star anise to a boil in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let the mixture
infuse for 10 minutes. Strain out the lemon zest and star anise, then bring the
mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat. Immediately pour it over the
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chocolate in the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the chocolate melt
completely, then pulse until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the but-
ter and pulse until it is completely incorporated and the ganache is homoge-
neous and shiny, then, with the food processor running, add in the lemon
juice.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan, and let it cool at room temperature
until it becomes pipeable, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. To check,
periodically use a small spoon to scoop out some of the ganache. If it holds a
ball-like shape, it is ready. This ganache can be kept covered and refriger-
ated for up to 1 week.
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5½ ounces (160 grams) semisweet chocolate, chopped
5½ ounces (160 grams) milk chocolate, chopped
1 cup (240 grams) heavy cream
¼ cup (57 grams) milk
8 black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods
4 whole cloves
3 cinnamon sticks
2 tablespoons (8 grams) loose black tea, or 4 tea bags
2 tablespoons (36 grams) light corn syrup
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 pieces
Pulse the chocolate in a food processor several times until it is chopped into small pieces.
Bring the cream, milk, peppercorns, cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon to a slow boil in a
small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the tea, and let the mixture
infuse for 5 minutes.
Press the spices and tea to extract as much flavor as possible, then strain them out from the
cream mixture. Add in the corn syrup and bring the mixture back to a boil over medium-high
heat. Immediately pour it over the chocolate in the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the
chocolate melt completely, then pulse until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the but-
ter and pulse until it is completely incorporated and the ganache is homogeneous and shiny.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan, and let it cool at room temperature until it
becomes pipeable, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. To check, periodically use a
small spoon to scoop out some of the ganache. If it holds a ball-like shape, it is ready. This
ganache can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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ganache fillings
Lapsang Souchong is a smoked tea from
China, with a very deep and unique flavor that the addition of whiskey
nicely accentuates here. It evokes the wood-paneled walls of a library and
deep, worn leather chairs, and is a great mignardise to serve at the end of
a meal. Because the filling has such personality, I usually only pair it with
Almond Shells (page 40).
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times
until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
Bring the tea, cream, and corn syrup to a boil in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Let it steep for 5 minutes, then press the tea to extract
as much flavor as possible and strain it out from the cream mixture. Bring
the mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat. Immediately pour it over
the chocolate in the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the chocolate melt
completely, then pulse until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the
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butter and pulse until it is completely incorporated and the ganache is homogeneous and
shiny, then, with the food processor running, add in the whiskey.
Pour the ganache into a shallow pan, and let it cool at room temperature until it
becomes pipeable, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. To check, periodically use a
small spoon to scoop out some of the ganache. If it holds a ball-like shape, it is ready. This
ganache can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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The bright purple color of this filling is
stunning and allows for really dramatic macarons when you pair it with sim-
ilarly striking shells, such as Blackberry (page 81), Licorice (page 79), or the
pure white of Almond Shells (page 40). You can buy black currant purée
through specialty retailers and online (see Resource List, page 257). You
can also substitute raspberry or blackberry purée made by blending frozen
fruits that have been thawed, or use Blackberry Jelly (page 198). The jelly is
a little sweeter than a purée, so if you use it, don’t add corn syrup here. This
ganache is best made a day ahead since it needs more time to set.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times
until it is chopped into small pieces. Leave the chocolate in the processor.
Bring the cream, corn syrup, and black currant purée to a boil in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat. Immediately pour it over the chocolate in
the food processor. Wait 1 minute to let the chocolate melt completely, then
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pulse until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the butter and pulse until it is com-
pletely incorporated and the ganache is homogeneous and shiny, then, with the food
processor running, add in the crème de cassis.
Pour the ganache into a bowl or container, and let it cool until the bowl is no longer hot
to the touch. Cover and refrigerate it for 12 to 24 hours before filling the macarons. It can
be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
MELTING CHOCOLATE
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ganache fillings
Think of this filling as a homemade Nutella,
the beloved Italian hazelnut and chocolate breakfast spread. Praline paste
is a purée of hazelnuts and caramelized sugar. You can buy it at gourmet
grocery stores, specialty pastry retailers, or online (see Resources, page
257). Pair it with Hazelnut Shells (page 68).
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Hazelnut Nougatine
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (120 grams) hazelnuts, blanched and toasted (see page 135)
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ganache fillings
Creamy Fillings
VANILLA BUTTERCREAM
* MAPLE BUTTERCREAM
*
PISTACHIO BUTTERCREAM
* BASIL BUTTERCREAM
* SESAME BUTTERCREAM
* OATMEAL COOKIE
BUTTERCREAM
* PUMPKIN-BOURBON BUTTERCREAM
*
Variation: Gingerbread Buttercream
*
ORANGE CREAM
* GINGER CREAM
*
PEAR CREAM
* LEMON CURD
* KEY LIME CURD
*
POPCORN PASTRY CREAM
* PASSION FRUIT
PASTRY CREAM
* CHERRY-ALMOND CREAM
*
* LEMON-ALMOND CREAM
These fillings represent many of the ways in which
you can obtain creaminess in pastry—most often, without actually using any
actual cream. It’s all about texture, and air beaten into other ingredients to
make them fluffy. Buttercream is a type of icing often used on cakes. It is either
meringue-based (as it is here, where an Italian-style meringue is formed with
heated sugar syrup) or confectioners’ sugar-based (an American style of but-
tercream). Meringue-based buttercreams can be flavored in infinite ways to
fill macarons, and freeze well. Most of the recipes here will keep for up to two
weeks in the refrigerator, and one month in the freezer.
A curd is a thick, creamy custard that is made by stirring the ingredients over
a heat source. Typically, a citrus juice is cooked with eggs and sugar. Pastry
cream is also a stirred custard, with a consistency similar to pudding. The milk
it contains can be flavored with a wide range of ingredients through an infu-
sion process.
In France, macarons are often simply filled with almond paste that is beaten
with butter and then flavored many different ways. Two options are offered
here, but feel free to experiment with others, especially if you have other
fillings leftover that could be folded into an almond cream.
Buttercream will freeze well for up to a month. Let it thaw in the refrigera-
tor and bring it to room temperature 2 hours before assembling the mac-
arons.
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creamy fillings
IF YOU DO NOT OWN A CANDY THERMOMETER, check the temperature of
the sugar syrup by dropping a few drops of syrup into ice water (use a heatproof spoon
or spatula to do so). The syrup should feel a bit sticky and form a soft ball in the water.
Visually, once it reaches 238ºF (115ºC), the syrup will be bubbling (large and small bub-
bles) throughout the entire surface of the pan, and will remain translucent.
PIPING BUTTERCREAM
SPOON THE BUTTERCREAM INTO A PASTRY BAG AND CUT A 1⁄2 -INCH
opening at the tip (or use a 1⁄2-inch tip). Pipe a small amount of buttercream, about 1⁄2-
inch thick, in a circular shape, on the flat sides of the shells. Don’t let the buttercream
go all the way to the edges of the macaron. Top with another shell, twisting it slightly to
secure the filling.
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Vanilla buttercream is one of the most basic
and versatile macaron fillings you can make, since it will go with nearly
every shell flavor. The seeds of the vanilla bean give a speckled appear-
ance, but because the taste can be mild, I like to add vanilla extract as well,
for a full vanilla effect.
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use the back of a paring knife to
scrape out the seeds. Stir them into the granulated sugar, and rub the bean
into the sugar to extract as many seeds as possible.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fit-
ted with the whisk attachment.
Bring the sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) water to a boil in a small sauce-
pan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Clip a candy
(continued)
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thermometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238°F (115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until they form soft
peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the syrup reaches 238°F (115ºC), quickly remove the vanilla
bean with kitchen tongs, then gradually and steadily pour the syrup down the side of the
bowl, resting the edge of the pan on the edge of the mixer so that the syrup does not hit
the whisk attachment and splatter. This process should take 15 seconds. Whisk the
meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools down, about 8 minutes.
Add the salt and butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emulsifies and
becomes completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. Add the vanilla extract. This but-
tercream can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
YOU MIGHT NEED TO LIFT THE BOWL SLIGHTLY with your hands while
whipping the egg whites at the beginning of the process, in case the amount is too small
for the whisk to reach them. Once they start gaining volume, you can leave it in its nor-
mal position.
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This buttercream uses maple syrup instead
of sugar to form the meringue. Pair it with Walnut, Pecan, or Hazelnut (page
68) shells to accentuate the fall-winter feel of the filling.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment.
Bring the maple syrup to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Clip
a thermometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238°F (115ºC).
While the maple syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed
until they form soft peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the maple syrup reaches
238°F (115ºC), gradually and steadily pour it down the side of the bowl, rest-
ing the edge of the pan on the mixer so that the syrup does not hit the whisk
attachment and splatter. This process should take 15 seconds. Whisk the
meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools down, about 8 minutes.
Add the salt and butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emul-
sifies and becomes completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. This but-
tercream can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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This versatile filling works wonders with a
range of shell flavors, including Pistachio (page 68), Cocoa (page 75), any
of the fruit-flavored shells, and Almond Shells (page 40). Many pastry shops
add green food coloring and almond extract to pistachio products to make
them taste more “pistachio-ey,” which often results in an artificial taste.
None of that here: toasting the nuts and grinding them with syrup give them
a more pronounced flavor naturally.
Preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Place the pistachios in the bowl of a food
processor.
Bring 1⁄2 cup (100 grams) sugar, the salt, and 1⁄8 cup (28.5 grams) water to
a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Clip a candy thermometer
to the pan, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the mixture reaches
230ºF (110ºC). Pour the syrup over the pistachios and process until the mix-
ture forms the smoothest purée possible. Set aside while you proceed.
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Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment.
Bring the remaining 3⁄4 cup (150 grams) sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) water to a boil in a
small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Clip a candy ther-
mometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238ºF (115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until they form soft
peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the syrup reaches 238°F (115ºC), gradually and steadily
pour the syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the edge of the pan on the edge of the
mixer so that the syrup does not hit the whisk attachment and splatter. This process
should take 15 seconds. Whisk the meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools
down, about 8 minutes.
Add the butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emulsifies and becomes
completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. Add in the pistachio purée while the mixer
is running and whisk until the buttercream returns to a smooth and fluffy state. It can be
kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
TOASTING NUTS
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creamy fillings
I have a large herb and flower garden, so am
always looking for ways to use its products in my baking. In the middle of
summer, after weeks of using basil in all its possible savory applications, I am
usually ready for more unusual ways to dispense of my plants’ abundant crop.
This buttercream tastes of basil, there is no question about that, but it is not
a savory filling per se; rather, it is a sweet buttercream with herbal notes. Pair
it with Pink Peppercorn (page 101), Strawberry (page 82), or, for a complete
garden experience, Marigold (page 88) shells.
Remove the basil leaves from their stalks and wash them. Bring them to a boil
with 3⁄4 cup (172 grams) water in a small saucepan on medium-high heat.
Remove from the heat, stir in the sugar, and let the leaves infuse for 20 minutes.
(continued)
IMAGE ON RIGHT: Cocoa Shells with Basil Buttercream
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When the mixture is cool, transfer it to a blender and blend for 2 minutes, pulsing rather
than letting it run constantly.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment. Bring the basil-sugar mixture to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-
high heat. Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238°F
(115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until they form soft
peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the syrup reaches 238°F (115ºC), gradually and steadily
pour the syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the edge of the pan on the edge of the
mixer so that the syrup does not hit the whisk attachment and splatter. This process
should take 15 seconds. Whisk the meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools
down, about 8 minutes.
Add the salt and butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emulsifies and
becomes completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. This buttercream can be kept
covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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les petits macarons
Sesame brittle is a snack often found in
Middle Eastern or health food stores. It is easy to make by hand, and will
add texture as well as flavor to this sesame buttercream. It’s a nice change
from peanut or almond brittle, and makes a great filling for Sesame (page
102) or Lime (page 78) shells.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment.
Bring the sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) water to a boil in a small saucepan
over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Clip a candy ther-
mometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238°F (115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until
they form soft peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the syrup reaches 238°F
(continued)
139
creamy fillings
(115ºC), gradually and steadily pour the syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the edge
of the pan on the edge of the mixer so that the syrup does not hit the whisk attachment
and splatter. This process should take 15 seconds. Whisk the meringue until stiff peaks
form and the bowl cools down, about 8 minutes.
Add the butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emulsifies and becomes
completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. Add the vanilla extract and sesame oil
while the mixer is running and whisk until the buttercream returns to a smooth and fluffy
state. Remove from the mixer and stir in the powdered brittle. This buttercream can be
kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Sesame Brittle
makes 1⁄ 2 cup
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (70 grams) white sesame seeds, toasted (see page 135)
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) fleur de sel
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This filling takes oatmeal from breakfast
to a special treat, just like the cookies that inspired it. Don’t use the amount
of water specified on the oatmeal container—the filling would be too liquid.
It needs to be thick enough to be pipeable. Also note the shorter storage
life. Pair it with Orange (page 77) or Walnut (page 68) shells.
Combine the instant oatmeal and the boiling water. Add the raisins and
cinnamon to the oatmeal, stir, and set aside. It will be thick.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer
fitted with the whisk attachment.
(continued)
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creamy fillings
Bring the sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) water to a boil in a small saucepan
over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Clip a candy ther-
mometer to the pan and cook until the mixture reaches 238°F (115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until
they form soft peaks. Once the syrup reaches 238°F (115ºC), gradually and
steadily pour the syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the edge of the
pan on the edge of the mixer so that the syrup does not hit the whisk attach-
ment and splatter. This process should take 15 seconds. Whisk the
meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools down, about 8 minutes.
Add the salt and butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emul-
sifies and becomes completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. Add the
vanilla extract and oatmeal-raising mixture while the mixer is running and
whisk until the buttercream returns to a smooth and fluffy state. It can be
kept covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
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Here is another seasonal filling, which I
like to serve throughout the fall, but most particularly at Thanksgiving. With
Pecan (page 68), Five-Spice (page 85), or Ginger (page 85) shells, these mac-
arons are a great alternative to pie at the end of a substantial meal. This fill-
ing also has a shorter storage time, because of the barely cooked pumpkin.
Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted
with the whisk attachment.
(continued)
143
creamy fillings
Bring the sugar and 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-
high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and cook
until the mixture reaches 238°F (115ºC).
While the syrup is cooking, whisk the egg whites at medium speed until they form soft
peaks, about 2 minutes. Once the syrup reaches 238°F (115ºC), gradually and steadily pour
the syrup down the side of the bowl, resting the edge of the pan on the edge of the mixer so
that the syrup does not hit the whisk attachment and splatter. This process should take
15 seconds. Whisk the meringue until stiff peaks form and the bowl cools down, about 8
minutes.
Add the salt and butter and whisk on high speed until the meringue emulsifies and
becomes completely smooth and fluffy, about 8 minutes. Add the bourbon, pumpkin
purée, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves while the mixer is running and whisk until the
buttercream returns to a smooth and fluffy state. It can be kept covered and refrigerated
for up to 3 days.
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les petits macarons
This cream and the two that follow were
inspired by famed French pastry chef Pierre Hermé’s lemon curd, in which
the butter does not melt, making for a light, mousse-like filling. Adding
lemon juice to the orange juice gives this cream a more intense flavor. It
pairs well with Marigold (page 88) and Orange (page 77) shells, as well as
with any of the nut ones. Because it is quite rich, you don’t need as much to
fill the macarons.
Bring the eggs, yolks, sugar, orange juice, lemon juice, orange zest, lemon
zest, and sea salt to a boil in a medium non-reactive stainless steel saucepan
(continued)
145
creamy fillings
over medium heat, whisking constantly, about 8 minutes. Once it boils, whisk
vigorously for 1 minute over the heat.
Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Let the
mixture cool until it is lukewarm.
Pour the mixture into a blender, add the butter, and process the mixture
until it is smooth and emulsified, about 1 minute. Pour it into a container and
let it cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate it overnight, until
it reaches a mousse-like consistency. This cream can be kept covered and
refrigerated for up to 4 days.
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1½ packed teaspoons (6 grams) finely grated
orange zest (from 1 orange)
1 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract
Pinch fine sea salt
1½ sticks (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened
Bring the eggs, yolks, sugar, grated ginger, orange zest, vanilla extract, and sea salt to a boil
in a medium non-reactive stainless steel saucepan over medium heat, whisking constantly,
about 8 minutes. Once it boils, whisk vigorously for 1 minute over the heat.
Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Let the mixture cool until
it is lukewarm.
Pour the mixture into a blender, add the butter, and process the mixture until it is
smooth and emulsified, about 1 minute. Pour it into a container and let it cool to room tem-
perature, then cover and refrigerate it overnight, until it reaches a mousse-like consis-
tency. This cream can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days.
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creamy fillings
This unusual filling is a perfect fall treat
when used to fill Hazelnut (page 000), Cocoa (page 000), Vanilla (page
000), or Almond (page 000) shells. You can substitute canned pears; just
make sure to drain them well. Poire Williams is a pear-based eau-de-vie.
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les petits macarons
Just like adding lemon juice to an orange-
based preparation boosts its flavor, so does a little bit of lime in a lemon
dessert. Here the lime zest also adds beautiful green speckles to the filling.
Pair it with Lemon-Poppy Seed (page 000), Marigold (page 000), Wasabi
(page 000), or Lime (page 000) shells.
Whisk together the lemon juice, lemon zest, lime zest, eggs, egg yolks, and
sugar in a medium non-reactive stainless steel saucepan until they reach a
homogenized mixture. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until
the mixture comes to a boil, about 8 minutes. Once it boils, whisk vigorously
for 1 minute over the heat.
(continued)
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Remove the curd from the heat and strain it into a medium-sized bowl. This
will remove any piece of cooked eggs and ensure that the curd is smooth.
Whisk in the butter until it is completely incorporated. Pour the curd into a
shallow pan so that it can cool faster, and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours, until
set. This curd can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days.
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1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon (.5 grams) fine sea salt
1 stick (114 grams) unsalted butter, softened
and cut into tablespoons
Whisk together the lime juice, lime zest, eggs, egg yolks, sugar, and sea salt in
a medium non-reactive stainless steel saucepan until they reach a homoge-
nized mixture. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mix-
ture comes to a boil, about 8 minutes. Once it boils, whisk vigorously for 1
minute over the heat.
Remove the curd from the heat and strain it into a medium-sized bowl.
This will remove any pieces of cooked eggs and ensure that the curd is
smooth. Whisk in the butter until it is completely incorporated. Pour the
curd into a shallow pan so that it can cool faster, and refrigerate it for at least
2 hours, until set. This curd can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 4
days.
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This pastry cream truly tastes like popcorn—
the good, buttery kind—and is one of my favorite fillings in this book. I could
eat it with a spoon, and will bake macarons simply to have an excuse to
make it. If you like buttered popcorn Jelly Beans, you will love it too. It pairs
well with Ancho Chile Shells (page 102) for a more savory flavor, or with
Blackberry (page 81), Licorice (page 79), or Pecan (page 68) shells.
Heat the popcorn kernels and the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large
stockpot covered with a lid. Once you hear the first kernels pop, after about
(continued)
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4 minutes, start shaking the pot periodically, to ensure that no kernel sticks to the bottom
of the pot and burns. Once all the kernels have popped, remove the popcorn from the
heat and sprinkle the salt over it. Discard any unopened kernels.
Bring the milk to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Pour it over the
popcorn and let the mixture infuse for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Transfer the mixture
to a blender and blend for 2 minutes, until smooth. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh
sieve to ensure that it is completely smooth.
In a medium bowl, whisk the cornstarch with the egg and egg yolks to dissolve it. Add a
splash of the popcorn milk if necessary.
Bring the popcorn milk and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat,
whisking frequently. Once the mixture is boiling, whisk in the cornstarch-egg mixture. Let
it return to a boil until it is very thick and smooth, whisking constantly with vigor. Continue
whisking for one minute.
Pour the mixture into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.
Add the butter and vanilla extract and whisk on medium-high speed until the mixture
cools, about 15 minutes. It can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. When
the shells are filled, consume within 1 day.
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You will find passion fruit purée in the
freezer section of some gourmet and Latin American grocery stores, as well
as online (see Resources, page 257). Pair this filling with Passion Fruit (page
83), Coconut (page 68), or Green Tea (page 86) shells.
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Maraschino is an Italian cherry liqueur
that is rather sweet, thick, and dark red. You can also substitute Kirsch, a
colorless, cherry-flavored eau-de-vie. With a red filling, I like to use Vanilla
(page 72), for color contrast. For Valentine’s Day, you could pair it with pink
shells such as Strawberry (page 82) or Rose (page 91) shells. This is a great
recipe if you have Sour Cherry Compote (page 189) leftover after filling
macaron shells.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the
almond paste on low speed to break it up. Slowly incorporate the butter
while the mixer is running. When the butter is completely incorporated and
the mixture is smooth, beat in the compote, maraschino, and salt. This cream
can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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This almond paste-based cream has a coarser
texture than lemon curd would have on its own. It is relatively easy to pre-
pare; I like to use it when I want to serve multiple fillings, and have already
made lemon curd. Pair it with Almond (page 40), Cardamom (page 84), Vi-
olet (page 92), or Vanilla (page 72) shells.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the
almond paste on low speed to break it up. Slowly pour in the lemon curd
while the mixer is running. When the curd is completely incorporated and
the mixture is smooth, add in the vanilla extract and salt. This cream can be
kept covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days.
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Caramel Fillings
FLEUR DE SEL CARAMEL
* ROSEMARY CARAMEL
*
BLOOD ORANGE CARAMEL
* COCONUT CARAMEL
* APRICOT-GINGER-CHOCOLATE CARAMEL
*
CREAMY DARK CHOCOLATE CARAMEL
*
Making caramel means cooking sugar syrup past the hard crack
stage, when the sugars begin to take on complex flavors other than sweetness.
Be careful when making caramel: You need to stop the cooking process either
by adding a liquid to dilute the caramel, or pouring it out of the pan, which
can result in splatters. The caramel at that point has a temperature of about
330ºF (165ºC), which will burn you severely if any reaches your bare arms or
hands. Also resist the temptation to dip your finger in hot, luscious caramel—
you will pay a high price for gourmandise.
Always use a heat-resistant utensil when working with caramel, so that it does
not melt in the pan. Silicone spatulas and wooden or metal spoons all work.
PIPING CARAMEL
SPOON THE CARAMEL INTO A PASTRY BAG AND CUT A 1⁄4-INCH OPEN-
ing at the tip. Pipe a small amount of caramel, about 1⁄4-inch thick, on the flat sides of
the shells. Don’t let the caramel go all the way to the edges of the macaron. Top with
another shell, twist it slightly to secure the filling, and let set in the refrigerator, about
10 minutes.
These caramels are very rich; they also cause shells to slide if you fill them too much.
For this reason, the yield of these recipes is slightly smaller. Evenly divide them among
40 shells.
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caramel fillings
Salty caramel has become ubiquitous in
pastry shops and restaurants around the country. It makes a great filling for
Espresso (page 76) or Vanilla (page 72) shells, and, in a more special combi-
nation, Pink Peppercorn (page 101). For a more pronounced fleur de sel ef-
fect, sprinkle the salt over the filling before topping it with the second shell.
Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is scalding
(almost to a boil), about 3 minutes.
Heat the sugar and lemon juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
Stir with a wooden spoon or a heat-resistant spatula to “rub” the juice into
the sugar until the sugar resembles wet sand. Cook until the sugar syrup
turns a clear amber color, the edges begin to foam, and you can smell the
caramel, about 10 minutes. Stir only if the sugar does not melt evenly.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the cream to stop the
cooking process. Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters. Whisk in
(continued)
IMAGE ON RIGHT: Espresso Shells with Fleur de Sel Caramel
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the fleur de sel, pour the caramel into a container, and let it cool at room tem-
perature for 2 hours. Cover, then refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. It can be
kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1 month.
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Heat the cream, rosemary, and vanilla bean in a small saucepan over medium heat until it
is scalding (almost to a boil), about 3 minutes.
Bring the sugar and 1⁄4 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. If
sugar sticks to the sides of the pot, use a pastry brush dipped in water to clean it off. Once
the mixture has boiled, add the corn syrup. Continue cooking until the sugar syrup turns a
clear amber color, the edges begin to foam, and you can smell the caramel, about 10 min-
utes. Do not stir, or the sugar might crystallize.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the cream to stop the cooking process.
Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters. Whisk in the black pepper, pour the
caramel into a container, and let it cool at room temperature for 2 hours. Remove the
vanilla bean and rosemary, cover, then refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. It can be kept cov-
ered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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caramel fillings
I became inspired by the combination of
blood orange and caramel when I baked a wedding cake for my brother-
in-law in Florida one spring and wanted to use the fruits as a nod to the lo-
cation of the wedding. The acidity of the orange balances the sweetness
of the caramel, which makes this filling perfect with Orange (page 77) or
Cardamom (page 84) shells.
Heat the cream, orange juice, and orange zest in a small saucepan over
medium heat until it is scalding (almost to a boil), about 3 minutes.
Heat the sugar and lemon juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
Stir with a wooden spoon or a heat-resistant spatula to “rub” the juice into
the sugar until the sugar resembles wet sand. Cook until the sugar syrup
(continued)
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turns a clear amber color, the edges begin to foam, and you can smell the
caramel, about 10 minutes. Stir only if the sugar does not melt evenly.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the cream to stop the
cooking process. Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters. Pour the
caramel into a container, and let it cool at room temperature for 2 hours.
Cover, then refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. It can be kept covered and refrig-
erated for up to 2 weeks.
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Heat the coconut milk, vanilla bean, star anise, and ginger in a small saucepan over
medium heat until the mixture is scalding (almost to a boil), about 3 minutes.
Heat the sugar and lemon juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir with a
wooden spoon or a heat-resistant spatula to “rub” the juice into the sugar until the sugar
resembles wet sand. Cook until the sugar syrup turns a clear amber color, the edges
begin to foam, and you can smell the caramel, about 10 minutes. Stir only if the sugar
does not melt evenly.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the coconut milk and spices to stop
the cooking process. Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters and whisk well.
Pour the caramel into a container, and let it cool at room temperature for 2 hours.
Remove the vanilla, star anise, and ginger, cover, then refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. It
can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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caramel fillings
This filling starts with raspberry jam to which
white chocolate and raspberry eau-de-vie are added; that jam is then com-
bined with caramel. It can be used after two hours, without overnight re-
frigeration. The tartness of the raspberries keeps it from being too sweet—a
risk anytime white chocolate is involved. I like to use it in Pistachio Shells
(page 71) in the spring and summer; the jam is also terrific on its own, with-
out the caramel.
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Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is scalding
(almost to a boil), about 3 minutes.
Heat the remaining 2⁄3 cup sugar and lime juice in a medium saucepan over
medium heat. Stir with a wooden spoon or a heat-resistant spatula to “rub”
the juice into the sugar until the sugar resembles wet sand. Cook until the
sugar syrup turns a clear amber color, the edges begin to foam, and you can
smell the caramel, about 5 minutes. Stir only if the sugar does not melt
evenly.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the cream to stop the
cooking process. Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters. Stir in the
raspberry-chocolate jam and pour the caramel into a shallow pan so that it
can cool faster. Let it cool until it is thick and spreadable, about 2 hours. It
can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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caramel fillings
I live by the ocean, and spend most of my
free summer nights strolling the boardwalk to enjoy the waves and the
warmth as much as possible. Ice cream stores abound, many of which offer
add-ins to mix into the flavors you select. I asked for apricots, ginger, and
chocolate chips to accompany a scoop of caramel ice cream. The combi-
nation was so good that I had to develop it into a macaron filling. Pair it
with Ginger (page 83), Cocoa (page 75), or simply with Almond (page 40)
shells, since a lot of flavors are already involved. This caramel can be used
two hours after making it.
Heat the cream and the apricots in a small saucepan over medium heat until
the cream is scalding (almost to a boil), about 3 minutes. Let it stand for 15
minutes, to rehydrate the fruits, then transfer it to the bowl of a food proces-
sor or a blender, add the ginger, and purée until smooth. Set aside while you
make the caramel.
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Heat the sugar and lime juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
Stir with a wooden spoon or a heat-resistant spatula to “rub” the juice into
the sugar until the sugar resembles wet sand. Cook until the sugar syrup
turns a clear amber color, the edges begin to foam, and you can smell the
caramel, about 5 minutes. Stir only if the sugar does not melt evenly.
Remove from the heat and immediately pour in the cream mixture to stop
the cooking process. Keep the pan away from you to avoid splatters. Stir in
the apricot purée and chocolate, whisk until the chocolate is melted, then
pour the caramel into a shallow pan so that it can cool faster. Let cool until it
is thick and spreadable, about 2 hours. It can be kept covered and refriger-
ated for up to 2 weeks.
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caramel fillings
One of my favorite store-bought treats is the
chocolate caramels of La Maison du Chocolat. I developed the flavors into
a perfect filling for macarons, which I like to pair with Cocoa (page 75) or
Black Pepper (page 101) shells.
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caramel fillings
FROZEN FILLINGS
ALMOND ICE MILK
* ANISE ICE MILK
YOGURT
* PERSIMMON ICE MILK
THESE FROZEN FILLINGS WILL HAVE a better, creamier texture if you let
them sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours before processing them in the ice cream
maker. The sitting time allows for the hydration of the solids. But if pressed for time,
you can process them as soon as the mixture is cooled to about 40°F(5°C).
When I worked at The Rainbow Room in New York, we were
constantly catching a couple of waiters standing in the walk-in freezer, eating
our frozen macarons. A frozen filling transforms a macaron into one tasty ice
cream sandwich, whether you use store-bought products or make your own
using one of the recipes in this chapter. These ice milks are designed for sim-
plicity and speed—assuming you have an ice cream maker. An ice milk is easier
to make than traditional custard-based ice cream, because there are no eggs to
cook, and it is lighter for the same reason.
You can fill the shells in advance and freeze the macarons until ready to
serve. They keep well that way, and can be served straight from the freezer.
Each recipe should make enough to fill a batch of macaron shells—the exact
yield will depend on your ice cream maker. You’ll use more of a frozen filling
than you’d use of another type, to make a thick ice cream macaron sandwich.
Use a small, 1-inch (2.5 cm) ice cream scoop.
FILLING ICE CREAM SANDWICH MACARONS
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frozen fillings
This is a recipe that pastry chef Kurt Walrath
made when I worked at The Rainbow Room. It is light and refreshing, and
makes for a simple, flavorful macaron when paired with Almond shells
(page 40). Almond syrup is often called orgeat (if French made), or orzata
(if Italian). You can find it in gourmet grocery stores, in coffee supply stores,
and online (see Resources, page 257).
Blend together the almond syrup, milk, vanilla extract, and salt in a blender
until completely smooth, about 1 minute. You can also place all the ingredients
in a bowl and blend with an immersion blender. Pour the mixture into an ice
cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer the almond ice milk to a freezer-safe container, cover, and freeze
for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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This ice milk uses both anise seeds and star
anise, to make sure that the flavor fully comes out. I like to serve it as part of
an assortment of macarons, which is a great way to get people to try more un-
usual flavors. Pair with Licorice (page 79) or Vanilla (page 72) shells.
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use the back of a paring knife to
scrape out the seeds. Stir them into the granulated sugar, and rub the bean
into the sugar to extract as many seeds as possible.
Bring the vanilla bean, sugar, half-and-half, anise seeds, star anise, and
corn syrup to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to
dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and infuse for 1 hour.
Strain the mixture. If it is not completely cool, refrigerate it for about 20
minutes. Pour it into an ice cream maker and process according to the man-
ufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the anise ice milk to a freezer-safe con-
tainer, cover, and freeze for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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The buttermilk makes this ice milk slightly
tangy, and gives it a more interesting flavor than if you were to simply make
orange ice milk. Pair this filling with Orange (page 77) or Almond (page 40)
shells.
Blend together the buttermilk, cream, lemon juice, orange juice, sugar, and
Grand Marnier in a blender until completely smooth, about 1 minute. You
can also place all the ingredients in a bowl and blend with an immersion
blender. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer the orange–buttermilk ice milk to a freezer-safe container, cover,
and freeze for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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Coffee leftover from breakfast will work well
here, even if it might stretch the definition of “freshly brewed” by a couple
of hours. This filling tastes just like fudgesicles, especially when paired with
Cocoa Shells (page 75).
Bring the sugar, corn syrup, cocoa powder, coffee, salt, and milk to a boil in a
medium saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking to dissolve the cocoa
powder. When it reaches a boil, remove from the heat and add the chocolate
and rum. Whisk thoroughly until smooth. Let cool to room temperature.
Transfer the chocolate mixture to a blender and blend until it’s com-
pletely smooth, about 2 minutes. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker
and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer the fudgesicle ice milk to a freezer-safe container, cover, and
freeze for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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frozen fillings
I like to use a honey that will reinforce the
flavor of the macaron shells—for example, a lavender honey for Lavender
Shells (page 89). Buckwheat honey is delicious with Lime (page 78) or Black
Pepper (page 101) shells, and any honey will be a great match for Walnut
Shells (page 68).
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use the back of a paring knife to
scrape out the seeds.
Blend together the vanilla seeds, yogurt, honey, and 3⁄4 cup (172 grams)
water in a blender until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. You can also
place all the ingredients in a bowl and blend with an immersion blender. Pour
the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufac-
turer’s instructions.
Transfer the yogurt mixture to a freezer-safe container, cover, and freeze
for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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In North America, persimmons are typically
available from November to January. My grandfather had a tree in his
backyard in rural Maryland, which I loved to visit when it was time to har-
vest the fruits. You will find two varieties: hachiya, which is astringent, and
fuyu, which is not and looks almost like an orange tomato. Either will work
for this recipe; just make sure that they are very ripe. So that the sweet,
almost apricot-like flavor of the fruit can really shine, I usually pair it with
Almond Shells (page 40).
Cut the persimmons in half, scoop out their flesh, and place it in a blender.
Add the sugar, half-and-half, corn syrup, vanilla extract, and salt and blend
until completely smooth, about 2 minutes. You can also place all the ingredi-
ents in a bowl and blend with an immersion blender. Pour the mixture into an
ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer the persimmon ice milk to a freezer-safe container, cover, and
freeze for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
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frozen fillings
A student introduced me to this filling in
class one day; it’s a delicate herbal flavor that is delicious with Marigold
(page 88), Licorice (page 79), or Wasabi (page 103) shells.
Prepare an ice water bath by combining ice cubes and cold water in a bowl or
pot. Bring the sugar, corn syrup, half-and-half, and tea to a boil in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from
the heat, let it infuse for 5 minutes, then strain out the tea, pressing to extract
as much flavor from it as possible. Stir in the vanilla and salt and immediately
place the pan over the ice water bath to chill completely, about 30 minutes.
Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Transfer the chamomile ice milk to a freezer-safe container, cover, and
freeze for at least 2 hours, up to 1 month.
Fruit-Based Fillings
* GINGER–HONEY–PLUM COMPOTE
*
APRICOT-VANILLA JAM
* WHITE PEACH JAM
* CHILE–PINEAPPLE–KUMQUAT MARMALADE
* BLACKBERRY JELLY
* APRICOT–PASSION PÂTE DE FRUIT
Fruits are a great way to introduce seasonality in your
macarons, since you can showcase the best flavors available at any given
moment. I like a lot of variety in fillings, so these showcase a wide range of tex-
tures. Fruit butters do not contain dairy products; rather, they are a tradi-
tional, creamy-smooth American way to preserve fruit. Compotes are thicker
and slightly chunky, and contain less sugar than jams or pâtes de fruits. Mac-
arons with fruit-based fillings will not freeze well and should be consumed
immediately.
Jams are fruits cooked with sugar, and pectin when needed, until they start
gelling. The fruits are not strained out, so they are thicker than jellies, which
are made with fruit juices. Marmalades are just as thick as jams, but typically
refer to citrus-based products.
Pâtes de fruit (fruit paste) are a close relative of jams and jellies. They are
cooked up to a higher temperature, which results in more water evaporating,
and a tighter filling. They are often sold in confectionery shops cut into
squares and rolled in granulated sugar to prevent sticking.
POURING FILLINGS INTO A SHALLOW PAN allows them to cool faster. You
can use a casserole dish or a cake pan, for example.
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fruit-based fillings
F ILLING WITH FRUIT
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Calvados is a French apple brandy. You can
substitute applejack (an American apple brandy) or plain brandy if you pre-
fer. If you cannot find cider, use water or apple juice instead. Pair this fill-
ing with Almond (page 40) or Cinnamon (page 84) shells.
Simmer the apples and 1⁄4 cup (60 grams) apple cider in a medium saucepan
with a thick bottom on low heat until the apples are soft, about 20 minutes.
Press the cooked apples through a sieve to purée them and remove their skins.
Simmer the apple purée, remaining 1⁄4 cup (60 grams) apple cider, cinnamon
stick, orange peel, and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stir-
ring constantly, until the mixture is thick and dark, about 20 minutes. It should be
boiling gently, with big, wide steam bubbles, and coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the heat, remove and discard the cinnamon stick, and stir in
the Calvados. Let it cool completely. The butter can be kept covered and
refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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fruit-based fillings
I love to include a lot of spices in my pump-
kin pies, because the combination of cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and car-
damom gives them heat and complexity. I follow the same principles in this
pumpkin butter, with even more flavor added by apple cider. It pairs well
with Ginger (page 85), Orange (page 77), or Walnut (page 68) shells. You
can use canned or freshly made pumpkin purée, and substitute water or
apple juice for the cider if it is not available.
Simmer the pumpkin purée, cider, sugar, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, and
cloves in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until
the mixture is very thick and dark, about 20 minutes. It should be boiling gen-
tly, with big, wide steam bubbles, and coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the heat, stir in the salt, and let cool completely.The butter
can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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Cherry and almonds are a classic pairing
that makes this filling particularly delicious on Almond (page 40), Orange
(page 77) or Cocoa (page 75) shells.
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fruit-based fillings
Nick Malgieri, a colleague at the Institute
of Culinary Education, makes a roasted plum and ginger filling for galettes
that inspired this filling. I added honey (a fairly mild flavor, such as wild-
flower or clover, is best, so as to not overpower the other ingredients), black
pepper, and Grand Marnier. The compote’s beautiful purple color looks and
tastes fantastic with Lemon (page 78), Black Pepper (page 101), or Vanilla
(page 72) shells. It also makes a great yogurt topping for breakfast.
Bring the plums, honey, ginger, salt, and black pepper to a boil in a medium
saucepan on medium heat, stirring to combine. Reduce the heat to low and
cook for another 15 minutes, stirring constantly, until the juices thicken and
the plums feel soft when probed with a knife. Stir in the Grand Marnier, then
pour the mixture in a shallow pan and let it cool completely. The compote
can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
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This French-style jam is delicious on its
own, but resist the urge to eat it all with a spoon and spread it in between
Vanilla (page 72) or Blackberry (page 81) shells. You can also make it with
fresh apricots in season: use about ten ripe apricots, peeled and quartered,
and purée them until smooth.
Split the vanilla bean and scrape its seeds out by running the back of a knife
over its length. Stir the seeds and the orange zest with the sugar.
Bring the apricots and 11⁄2 cups (344 grams) water to a boil in a medium
saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let sit for 30
minutes.
Clip a candy thermometer to the pan, stir in the orange sugar, and cook
over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixtures reaches 220ºF
(105ºC) or is spreadable, about 10 minutes.
Once ready, remove from the heat, stir in the Grand Marnier, pour the jam
into a shallow pan and let it cool completely. It can be kept covered and refrig-
erated for up to 1 month.
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fruit-based fillings
Use gloves to handle the bird’s eye chile, or
you will be sorry if you happen to rub your eyes later. It’s a tiny but potent chile,
commonly used in Thailand; you can substitute other types of red chiles. This
marmalade takes longer to reach the right temperature because of the pineap-
ple, which adds liquid. Pair it with Coconut (page 68), Lime (page 78), or Pas-
sion Fruit (page 83) shells.
Split the vanilla bean and scrape its seeds out by running the back of a knife
over its length. Stir the seeds with the sugar, “rubbing” them all together so
that they flavor the sugar.
Stir together the pineapple, kumquat, and sugar into a medium non-reac-
tive stainless steel saucepan, and let macerate for 1 hour, until the fruits’
juices are drawn out.
Clip a candy thermometer to the pan, add the chile, then cook the mixture,
stirring constantly, over medium heat until it reaches 220ºF (105ºC) or is
spreadable, about 20 minutes. The marmalade will thicken considerably as
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les petits macarons
it cools, so be careful to not overcook it.
Once ready, remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and salt, pour
the jam into a shallow pan, and let it cool completely. It can be kept covered
and refrigerated for up to 1 month.
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fruit-based fillings
Campari is an herb-based, slightly bitter
liqueur that is highly recognizable thanks to its bright red color. Italians
often serve it with an orange slice as garnish. In this filling, it complements
the lemon flavor deliciously and gives the marmalade a pink hue that
resembles pink lemonade. Pair with Lemon-Poppyseed (page 78), Pink Pep-
percorn (page 101), or Almond (page 40) shells. The preparation time is
about two and a half hours, but for most of it you don’t need to do anything,
so you could make the macaron shells while waiting.
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fruit-based fillings
cooked. Cut them in half and discard their seeds. Finely chop the lemons
then return them to the water, stir in the sugar, and cook on very low heat for
1 hour.
Clip a candy thermometer to the pan, turn the heat up to medium, and
cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until it reaches 220ºF (105ºC) or is
spreadable, about 10 minutes. The marmalade will thicken considerably as
it cools, so be careful to not overcook it.
Once ready, remove from the heat, stir in the Campari and salt, pour the
marmalade into a shallow pan, and let it cool completely. It can be kept cov-
ered and refrigerated for up to 1 month.
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White peaches have a short season, but I find
them to be the most flavorful variety of the fruit. They also have an ever-
slightly pink hue where the skin meets the flesh, which gives this jam a very
delicate color. You can use yellow peaches instead, of course, and even
frozen ones. Pair it with Lime (page 78) or Almond (page 40) shells.
Whisk the pectin into the sugar in a large non-reactive stainless steel saucepan
so that it disperses evenly when cooking. Stir in the peaches and lime zest and
let macerate for 1 hour, until the fruits’ juices are drawn out.
Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and cook the mixture, stirring con-
stantly, over medium heat until it reaches 220ºF (105ºC) or is spreadable,
about 10 minutes.
Once ready, remove from the heat, stir in the lime juice, pour the jam into
a shallow pan, and let it cool completely. It can be kept covered and refrig-
erated for up to 1 month.
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fruit-based fillings
As a child, I would go on long blackberry-
picking walks, pulling the ripe berries from thorny bushes and gently de-
positing them in my basket. My mom would then make pies or jams with our
bounty. Pair this with Blackberry (page 81), or Coconut (page 68) shells.
Use frozen berries when fresh ones are not in season.
Whisk the pectin into the sugar in a medium non-reactive stainless steel
saucepan so that it disperses evenly when cooking. Stir in the blackberries
and let macerate for 1 hour, until the fruits’ juices are drawn out.
Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and let it boil for 5 min-
utes, stirring constantly. Clip a candy thermometer to the pan, reduce the
heat to medium, then cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until it reaches
220ºF (105ºC) or is spreadable, about 10 minutes. The jelly will thicken con-
siderably as it cools, so be careful to not overcook it.
Once ready, remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and salt, strain
the jelly through a fine-mesh strainer (to get rid of the seeds), and let it cool
completely. It can be kept covered and refrigerated for 1 month.
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You will find apricot and passion fruit purée
in specialty food stores (we’ve also seen passion fruit purée in the frozen aisles
of Latin grocery stores), but most easily online (see Resources, page 257).
They are often sold frozen, so let them thaw out before use. You can make
your own purée with fresh fruit: peel, pit, and purée them, then strain them
through a fine-mesh sieve. Play up the passion fruit flavor by filling the match-
ing shells (page 83), or use Coconut (page 68) or Almond (page 40) shells.
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fruit-based fillings
Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and pour the mixture in a
shallow pan to cool completely until it is thick and set, about 2 hours. It will
keep for 2 weeks, stored in an airtight container at room temperature or in
the refrigerator. This filling will be too thick to pipe, so spoon small amounts
of it onto the shells.
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¼ cup (72 grams) light corn syrup
1 teaspoon (4 grams) freshly squeezed and strained
lemon juice (from ½ lemon)
Whisk the pectin into the sugar in a medium non-reactive stainless steel saucepan so that
it disperses evenly when cooking. Add the strawberry purée, guava paste, and corn syrup
to a boil, stirring constantly. Clip a candy thermometer to the pan and continue cooking
the mixture until it reaches 225ºF (107ºC) or clings to the whisk, about 15 minutes. The
fruits will darken while cooking, which is normal. The pâte de fruit will thicken consider-
ably as it cools, so be careful to not overcook it.
Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and pour the mixture in a shallow pan to
cool completely until it is thick and set, about 2 hours. It will keep for 2 weeks, stored in an
airtight container at room temperature. This filling will be too thick to pipe, so spoon small
amounts of it onto the shells, evenly dividing it among them.
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YELLOW PECTIN
and works particularly well with fruits that have a higher water content, such as straw-
berries. You can order it online (see Resources, page 257). If you substitute regular
pectin, the pâtes de fruit might set too loosely, which is not ideal for a macaron filling.
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fruit-based fillings
Favorite
American
Classics
GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE
*
RED VELVET CAKE
* CARROT CAKE
*
DULCE DE LECHE
* KEY LIME
WITH MARSHMALLOW FLUFF
*
*
TROPICAL PIÑA COLADA
* S’MORES
*
This chapter features beloved American desserts in
macaron form, which also gives them the advantage of being gluten-free.
Making those macarons for friends who can’t enjoy the real thing will earn you
a healthy supply of friendship points. Because some involve several compo-
nents, they require a little more time than “regular” macarons but you will
find them to be well worth any additional effort.
Take this idea of using two fillings and don’t be afraid to experiment with
other flavors and to mix and match as you please. It’s a great way to use up left-
over filling, for example.
205
favorite american clas sics
Serving German chocolate cake as a bite-size
treat makes for a surprising dessert.Use this filling with Pecan (page 68) or
Cocoa (page 75) shells.
Bring the condensed milk, sugar, and butter to a boil in a small saucepan over
medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the yolks, coconut
flakes, pecans, salt, and vanilla extra. Continue cooking, stirring continu-
ously, until the mixture thickens and begins to boil. It will darken because of
the caramelization of the sugar, which is perfectly normal.
Pour the mixture into a shallow pan and let it cool to lukewarm, about 15
minutes. If it cools completely it will be harder to handle. Spoon it into the
shells immediately.
IMAGE ON LEFT: Cocoa and Pecan Shells with German Chocolate Cake
Filling
207
favorite american clas sics
Red velvet is the quintessential Southern
cake. Its red color initially came only from a reaction between baking soda
and cocoa powder, but nowadays red food coloring is added to most ver-
sions, for a brighter color. Many red velvet cakes are filled and frosted with
a cream cheese buttercream (only some recipes call for this, others use a milk-
based, cooked cream. Here, the macarons are filled with a cream cheese fluff.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
together the cream cheese and butter on low speed until the mixture is
fluffy, about 4 minutes.
Add the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla extract, and salt. Beat until smooth,
about 5 minutes, scraping regularly with a spatula to ensure that everything
is well combined. The fluff can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1
week. Spoon it into a piping bag when ready to fill.
Pipe a small amount of the cream cheese filling in a circular shape about
1
⁄2-inch thick, not going all the way to the edge, on the flat sides of 40 of the
shells. Top with another shell, twisting slightly to secure the fillings.
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Dulce de leche is traditionally cooked down
from milk, and the sugars caramelize with slow cooking. This is an easy ver-
sion that starts with canned milk. This recipe is very rich; you won’t need
much to fill each macaron, thus the smaller yield. It pairs well with Lime
(page 78), Cinnamon (page 84), or Cashew (page 68) shells.
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favorite american clas sics
Halwa is a dense, sweet confection found
primarily in the Middle East and in Asia. Pastry chef Anil Rohira offered
carrot halwa as part of his featured dessert when Dessert Professional
named him one of its Top Ten Pastry Chefs of the year, which inspired me
to turn it into a carrot cake-like filling for a macaron. The texture of this fill-
ing resembles shredded carrots, and its flavor is that of carrot cake.
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Pinch fleur de sel
1 recipe Cinnamon Shells (page 84)
For the carrot halwa: put 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of condensed milk into a small bowl.
Stir in the powdered milk until the mixture is smooth, and set aside.
Cook the carrots and remaining condensed milk in a medium saucepan over medium
heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. The carrots will start rendering their juices
after about 10 minutes. Once the liquid is half reduced, about 5 minutes later, stir in the
raisins, pineapple, cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. Continue cooking, stirring gently
until the liquid is mostly evaporated, about 5 more minutes.
While the carrots are cooking, prepare an ice water bath for the saucepan.
Stir the powdered milk mixture and fleur de sel into the carrots, then remove from the
heat and immediately place over the ice water bath to cool. The halwa can be kept cov-
ered and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Do not freeze it.
For the cream cheese fluff: in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attach-
ment, beat together the cream cheese and butter until the mixture is fluffy, about 4 min-
utes.
Add the orange zest, Grand Marnier, and salt. Beat until smooth, about 5 minutes,
scraping regularly with a spatula to ensure that everything is well combined. The fluff can
be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Spoon it into a piping bag before using.
Spoon a small amount of the halwa in a circular shape about 1⁄4-inch thick, not going all
the way to the edge, on the flat sides of 40 of the shells. Pipe 1⁄4-inch-thick dab of fluff on
top of the halwa and top with another shell, twisting slightly to secure the fillings.
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favorite american clas sics
These macarons combine lime curd and
marshmallow, just like a real Key lime pie. The small torch sold as part of
a crème brûlée kit works perfectly to torch the marshmallow filling. You
can also buy one separately at a kitchenware or hardware store. But fret
not: you can skip the torching and still have a great flavor.
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les petits macarons
Put the egg whites, sugar, key lime juice, key lime zest, and vanilla extract
in the bowl of an electric mixer (without setting it on the mixer just yet). With
a hand whisk, whisk together to combine, then place the bowl over the pot of
water and clip a candy thermometer to the bowl. Whisk until the mixture
reaches 145ºF (63ºC).
Take the bowl off the heat and place it on the mixer. Fit the whisk attach-
ment, and whisk at medium speed until glossy stiff peaks form and the mix-
ture is very thick, about 7 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean, and spoon the
marshmallow filling into a piping bag to pipe it immediately.
Spoon or pipe a small amount of the key lime curd in a circular shape about
1
⁄4-inch thick, not going all the way to the edge, on the flat sides of 40 of the
lime shells. Pipe a 1⁄4-inch-thick dab of marshmallow over the curd, and with
a small torch, lightly torch the top of each marshmallow mound (if it catches
on fire, blow on it!). Top with another shell, twist it slightly to secure the fill-
ings, and serve immediately.
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les petits macarons
Coconut shells will give you the flavor of
a creamy cocktail and Caribbean night.
215
favorite american clas sics
S’more macarons are a great way to use left-
over ganache. If you don’t have any, make a half batch of your favorite recipe
(pages 104 to 127). For a very quick version, you can always use Nutella.
Fill a pot over which the bowl of your electric mixer can fit without touching the
bottom with about 2 inches of water. Bring the water to a boil over medium heat.
Put the egg whites, sugar, and vanilla extract in the bowl of an electric mixer
(without setting it on the mixer just yet). With a hand whisk, whisk together to com-
bine, then place the bowl over the pot of water and clip a candy thermometer to
the bowl. Whisk until the mixture reaches 145ºF (63ºC).
Take the bowl off the heat and place it on the mixer. Fit the whisk attachment,
and whisk at medium speed until glossy stiff peaks form and the mixture is very
thick, about 7 minutes. Spoon the filling into a piping bag immediately.
Spoon or pipe a small amount of ganache in a circular shape about 1⁄4-inch
thick, not going all the way to the edge, on the flat sides of 40 shells. Pipe a 1⁄4-
inch-thick dab of marshmallow over the ganache, and with a small torch, lightly
torch the top of each marshmallow mound. Top with another shell, twist it
slightly to secure the fillings, and serve immediately.
Savory Fillings
HUMMUS
* CHÈVRE-ROSEMARY
*
MUSHROOMS AND WHITE WINE
*
MAPLE-BACON-BOURBON
* THAI CHILE-PEANUT
*
TOMATO CONFIT
* CHICKEN MOLE
*
FOIE GRAS WITH BLACK CURRANT GASTRIQUE
*
* DUCK CONFIT WITH PORT AND FIG
*
My sweet macaron classes at the Institute of Culinary
Education are so popular that I had to think of ways to expand the offerings. A
savory macaron class made a lot of sense, since they are perfect hors d’oeuvres
to serve at a party, or even as an amuse-bouche (an appetizer before a meal) for
a sit-down dinner. These recipes will give you a new way to experience not only
macarons, but a wide range of flavor combinations.
BECAUSE THEY ARE THICK AND TEXTURED, most of these savory fillings
should be spooned onto macaron shells rather than piped. Spoon a small amount of
filling (evenly dividing it to have enough for all the shells) not going all the way to the
edge, on the flat sides of 40 shells. Top with another shell, twisting it slightly to secure
the filling. None of these fillings should be frozen, so it’s best to prepare and assemble
these macarons just before serving. You can make the shells ahead of time, freeze
them, and bring them to room temperature before filling them.
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savory fillings
These macarons offer a unique alternative
to the hummus bowl that has become ubiquitous at most parties as the veg-
etarian offering. Hummus pairs well with Sesame Shells (page 102), and
with Pink or Black Peppercorn (page 101) shells. Look for tahini in the Mid-
dle Eastern aisle of your supermarket. I like my hummus quite lemony, and
always squeeze extra lemon juice in case I want to add more later. You can
do the same here, but just make sure that the finished hummus is not too
runny, since it has to hold its shape in a macaron.
Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC). Cut a piece of foil large enough to cover
both heads of garlic.
Cut both heads of garlic in half horizontally, without peeling them, to
expose the tips of the cloves. Drizzle 2 tablespoons (26 grams) of the olive
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les petits macarons
oil on the foil, and place the heads of garlic on top of the oil (cut-side down so that they can
absorb it as much as possible). Wrap the foil around them completely, then place on a bak-
ing sheet and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the heads feel very soft when probed
with a knife. Remove them from the oven and let them cool completely.
Drain the chickpeas, reserving the liquid. Combine the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice,
cumin, and 1 teaspoon of salt in the bowl of a food processor or blender and process until
the mixture is smooth.
Squeeze the cooled garlic cloves out of their skins and add them to the chickpea mix-
ture, along with the remaining 1 tablespoon (13 grams) of olive oil. Process until well incor-
porated. Taste, and if necessary, adjust the texture with some of the reserved chickpea
liquid. Season with more salt and black pepper to taste. This hummus can be kept covered
and refrigerated for up to 4 days.
YOU CAN PIPE SMOOTHER FILLINGS like Hummus (page 220) or Chèvre-Rose-
mary (page 222), if you prefer: spoon the filling into a pastry or resealable plastic bag,
and cut a 1⁄2-inch opening at the tip.
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savory fillings
The Mediterranean flavors of this creamy,
rich cheese mixture pair well with Walnut (page 68), Hazelnut (page 68), or
Parsley (page 77) shells. Chèvre is fresh goat cheese, which you will find in
the cheese case of your supermarket or at any cheese store.
Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC). Cut a piece of foil large enough to cover
the head of garlic.
Cut the head of garlic in half horizontally, without peeling it, to expose the
tips of the cloves. Drizzle the olive oil on the foil, and place the head of garlic
on top of the oil (cut-side down so that it can absorb it as much as possible).
Wrap the foil around it completely, then place on a baking sheet and bake
for about 45 minutes, or until the head feels very soft when probed with a
knife. Remove it from the oven and let it cool completely. Once cool,
squeeze the cloves out of the skin with your hands.
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les petits macarons
Remove the leaves from the rosemary sprig and chop them very finely.
You should have about 1 teaspoon.
Place the chèvre, rosemary, and roasted garlic in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix at medium speed until the mixture
is homogenous. Turn the mixer to low, add the crème fraîche, and mix until
incorporated. Taste and season with the salt and pepper, adding more if you
prefer. This filling can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days.
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savory fillings
⁄8 teaspoon (.5 gram) ground cumin
1
Rinse and trim the mushrooms, removing their stems. Slice the mushroom caps into 1⁄8-
inch pieces.
Heat the olive oil and butter in a wide sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shal-
lots and cumin, and cook, stirring, until the shallots are a light golden color, about 5 min-
utes. Add the mushrooms, wine, salt, and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and
cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid rendered by the mush-
rooms evaporates. Stir in the parsley, taste, and add salt and pepper if desired.
Spoon a small amount of the filling on 40 macaron shells and top with another shell.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
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les petits macarons
This filling is deliciously spicy, but the heat
is tempered by the peanut butter. I use Huy Fong Foods Chili Garlic Sauce,
which I find at my local supermarket. They also make sriracha, which you
can use instead if you prefer, but it doesn’t contain any garlic so the flavor
will be slightly different. Chiles and peanuts are a classic Thai flavor com-
bination that is furthered emphasized by using this filling with Ginger (page
85) or Lime (page 78) shells. It is rich, so use sparingly.
Heat the ginger, garlic, lime juice, peanut butter, soy sauce, chili paste, vine-
gar, and honey in a small saucepan over medium-low for 5 minutes. Stir a few
(continued)
225
savory fillings
times while the ingredients are heating up to make sure everything is combined.
Taste the mixture and add more of any of the ingredients if desired.
Remove from the heat, stir in the scallions, and immediately spoon the filling
onto 40 macaron shells, evenly dividing it. Top with another shell, and serve
warm or at room temperature.
BECAUSE OF THE SOY SAUCE, this is the only recipe in this book that
is not completely gluten-free. Substitute a gluten-free variety if desired.
226
les petits macarons
227
chapter title
8 (about 2½ pounds or 1150 grams) ripe plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons (26 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
1 sprig lemon thyme, leaves only
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) coarse sea salt
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) coarsely ground black pepper
Prepare an ice water bath by combining ice cubes and cold water in a bowl or pot, then
bring 2 quarts (1.8 liters) of water to a boil over high heat.
Cut out the stem end and score an “X” in the skin of each tomato. Plunge them in the
boiling water for 30 seconds each, then immediately remove them and plunge them into
the ice water bath. This will allow the skin to slip off easily. Let the tomatoes cool slightly,
then cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.
Preheat the oven to 250ºF (120ºC).
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat, and sprinkle the olive
oil on top of it. Place the tomatoes cut-side down on the olive oil and sprinkle them with
the thyme leaves, salt, and pepper. Bake for 11⁄2 hours, until caramelized and soft if
probed with a knife.
Transfer the tomatoes, oil, and seasonings to the bowl of a food processor and pulse 3
times to make a smooth purée. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula once
during the process, to make sure that nothing sticks to the sides. Pipe the filling warm or
let it cool to room temperature. It can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
228
les petits macarons
Mole is a Mexican sauce that includes a
variety of chiles, spices, and chocolate. A slew of regional variations exist,
not to mention the twists each cook might give a family recipe. Because it
contains so many aromatics, it has a very complex flavor—at times spicy,
at times sweet; you don’t need too much filling in each macaron for it to
come through. Don’t be intimated by the long ingredient list; each quantity
is small, which makes for a rather short preparation time. To accentuate
the taste of chocolate in the recipe, pair this filling with Cacao Nibs Shells
(page 75) to play up the chocolate, or on Ancho Shells (page 102) to bring
up its spiciness. Use a Microplane zester to grate the chocolate.
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savory fillings
2 tablespoons (24 grams) freshly squeezed and strained
orange juice (from ½ orange)
½ cup (120 grams) chicken stock
½ cup (140 grams) crushed plum tomatoes
1 teaspoon (5 grams) canned chipotle peppers, finely chopped
¼ packed teaspoon (1 gram) finely grated orange zest
½ ounce (14 grams) unsweetened chocolate, finely grated
2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Mix the cumin, ancho chile, cinnamon, and salt in a small bowl to create a dry rub. Place the
chicken slices in the bowl and coat them with the rub.
Heat the olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken slices and
cook for about 2 minutes, until they are seared. Turn them over and sear the other side for
about 2 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the onions to the pan and stir until they become translucent, about 1 minute. Add
the garlic, then pour the orange juice and chicken stock into the pan to deglaze it. Reduce
the heat to medium, add the tomatoes and chipotle peppers, and cook until the sauce
thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes.
While the sauce thickens, cut the chicken into 1⁄8-inch cubes. Once the sauce is ready,
stir in the orange zest and chocolate until the chocolate is melted and reduce the heat to
low. Add the chicken cubes and honey, and stir until the chicken is warmed through, about
4 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as desired. Spoon the mole filling onto
40 macarons shells, evenly dividing it, then top with another shell, twist it slightly to secure
the filling, and serve warm.
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les petits macarons
I ate foie gras with black currant gastrique
at Le Favre d’Anne, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Angers, France, when
I was there on a trip with students. The taste was so memorable that I had
to turn it into a filling for Black Pepper Shells (page 101). Foie gras is often
served with a fruit-based condiment, but those can be too sweet and make
the dish cloying. A gastrique—a sweet and sour vinegar reduction—adds
tartness to balance the sweetness, and cuts through the richness of foie
gras. You can buy foie gras lobes in gourmet grocery stores and online, and
black currant purée online (see Resources, page 257).
Heat the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat until it turns a golden
(continued)
231
savory fillings
caramel color, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully stir in the
vinegar to stop the caramelizing process. Set aside while you cook the foie gras.
Heat a wide sauté pan over high heat. Add the olive oil and the shallots, and stir for 30
seconds. Add the foie gras slices and sear on one side for 45 seconds. Use a spatula to flip
them over and sear the other side for another 45 seconds.
Remove the foie gras from the pan to a plate. Pour any excess fat into a bowl and
reserve, then pour the red wine and black currant purée into the pan to deglaze it. Stir in
the caramel, turn the heat to low, and let the liquid reduce until it coats the back of a
wooden spoon, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon (13 grams) of
the reserved foie gras cooking fat. Taste and season as desired with salt and pepper.
Immediately place a small piece of the seared foie gras onto 40 macaron shells. Drizzle
a bit of gastrique over each, then top with another macaron shell and serve warm or at
room temperature.
IMAGE ON LEFT: Black Pepper Shells with Foie Gras with Black Currant Gastrique
233
savory fillings
Duck confit is duck that has been preserved
in its own fat. I like using D’Artagnan’s, which you will find in most gourmet
grocery stores, but any type of duck confit, especially homemade, will do
(see Resources, page 257, if you want to order it online). Duck goes well
with sweet accompaniments, such as prunes and figs. The spices prevent
the filling from being too sweet here. Pair it with Orange (page 77) or Hazel-
nut (page 68) shells. You can use the port-fig filling on its own with sweet
shells, without duck, or with Orange Buttermilk Ice Milk (page 178).
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les petits macarons
Wrap the bay leaf, peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and orange peel in cheesecloth
(you’ll need 6 to 8 inches), bringing the four corners of the cloth together and tying them
into a knot so that the spices do not spill. It should look like a small pouch. You can also
place all the ingredients in a large tea ball.
Stir together the sugar and the port in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, and add
the figs and spice pouch. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and let the mixture
simmer for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 300º F.
Drain the figs, reserving the liquid and discarding the spice pouch. Put the figs in the
bowl of a food processor and pulse about 4 times for 3 seconds each, until you have a
smooth fig compote. Scrape the sides between pulses. Taste, and add some of the spiced
port liquid if needed. The compote should be soft enough to pipe, but not so liquid that it
will run.
Place the duck confit pieces on a baking sheet, cover them with foil, and heat until warm,
6 to 8 minutes.
Spoon a dollop of fig compote on 40 macaron shells. Top with a piece of duck confit,
then another macaron shell, and serve at room temperature or while the duck is still
slightly warm.
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savory fillings
The sweet and smoky flavors of bacon, bour-
bon,and maple syrup make this filling one of the most addictive of the book.
It pairs well with a bourbon-based drink, as you can imagine, and other dark
cocktails. Use it to fill Walnut (page 68), Orange (page 77), or Cocoa (page
75) shells. Use small dabs for a less slippery macaron.
For Less-Than-
Perfect Macarons
* SARAH BERNHARDTS
* CHOCOLATE BEEHIVES
* TRIFLE
Macarons don’t always come out perfectly. Even in one
batch where most of them are perfect, some might be less so. Don’t be dis-
couraged—they are, first and foremost, delicious on their own as regular cook-
ies. But there are also a number of desserts that you can make, some simple
and some slightly more involved, with less-than-perfect macarons.
These recipes call for 40 shells—half a batch—because presumably not all of
your finished macarons will be misshaped. They can be further divided to
make smaller quantities based on the number of shells you may want to “dis-
guise,” and the amount of filling you have on hand.
239
for les s-than-perfect macarons
History has it that a Danish pastry chef in-
vented these cookies to celebrate famed nineteenth-century French ac-
tress Sarah Bernhardt. The crispy texture of the macaron, the soft
ganache, and the rich chocolate shell of this petit four undoubtedly evoke
beauty and luxury. This recipe is perfect for shells that are cracked or that
don’t have feet as well formed as others. Tempering the chocolate before
dipping the petits fours in it gives it a snap once it cools, as well as a shiny
color. If you choose to not temper the chocolate, your Sarah Bernhardts
will still taste delicious but will look slightly less polished.
Makes 40
Sarah 1 recipe of your favorite ganache (pages 104 to 119),
firm enough to pipe
Bernhardts 40 Rose (page 91) or Almond (page 40) shells
1 recipe Tempered Chocolate (recipe follows)
240
les petits macarons
Tempered Chocolate
Tempering consists of gradually lowering the temperature of couverture chocolate—a
type of chocolate that contains a higher percentage of cocoa butter—through stirring,
then slightly raising it again, to form a crystal structure in the chocolate that allows it to
be shiny and solid at room temperature and “snap” crisply when you bite into it or break
it into pieces. It’s hard to temper small quantities of chocolate, so you will have a lot of
it leftover. Let it solidify, and retemper when needed.
Fill a pot over which the bowl of your electric mixer can fit without touching the bottom
with about 2 inches of water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat
to maintain a simmer.
Put the chocolate in the bowl of an electric mixer. Place the bowl over the pan, clip a
candy thermometer to the side of the bowl, and let melt until the chocolate reaches 115ºF
(46ºC).
Take the bowl off the heat and set it on the mixer. Fit the paddle attachment, and beat at
low speed until the chocolate reaches 84ºF (29ºC) on the candy thermometer.
Dip a piece of parchment paper in the chocolate, then let it set in the freezer for 5 min-
utes to see if the chocolate snaps (breaks cleanly). If it does, reheat the chocolate slightly
over the simmering water for 8 to 10 seconds, until it reaches 88ºF (31ºC) on the candy
thermometer. If the chocolate doesn’t snap, continue to cool it in the mixer until a retest
on parchment paper does snap.
Immediately use the chocolate to make the Sarah Bernhardts. If it starts to set, heat it
briefly again over the simmering water for 10 seconds, and stir it again before using.
Repeat the parchment test if you think it might have become too warm.
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These tarts are a great way to try your hand
at making larger macarons. It takes about half the amount of any base mac-
aron recipe to make eight 3-inch macarons. Prepare the recipe as you would
for smaller macarons, but use the large size baking instructions (page 39).
Ginger (page 85) or Green Tea (page 86) shells work well with the fruits
used here, but feel free to substitute your favorite seasonal fruits and shell
flavors, as well as store-bought ice cream.
Makes 40
1 recipe of your favorite ganache, or leftover ganache
(pages 104 to 127), firm enough to pipe Chocolate
40 macaron shells
¼ cup (25 grams) Dutch-processed cocoa powder
Beehives
40 whole almonds, toasted (see page 135)
½ teaspoon (3 grams) vegetable oil
1 ounce (30 grams) semisweet chocolate pieces,
melted (see page 125)
80 sliced blanched almonds
Fill a pastry bag with the ganache, and cut a 1⁄4-inch opening at the tip. Work-
ing quickly so it will not set, pipe the ganache in a spiral on the base of a mac-
aron shell, starting in the center. Continue building the spiral vertically, going
back toward the center, in a beehive shape. Sprinkle the cocoa powder over
the beehives, and refrigerate them briefly while working on the almond bees.
Arrange the toasted almonds on a cookie rack. Stir the oil in the melted
chocolate. With a fork, quickly drizzle the chocolate over the almonds, to
(continued)
245
for les s-than-perfect macarons
create the stripes of a bee. Refrigerate for 10 minutes, until set.
Position the bee bodies anywhere you want on the beehives, pressing
each down slightly into the ganache so it stays in place. Press an almond slice
on each side of each bee body to form the bee’s wings. The beehives can be
kept, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.
Serves 8
Trifle 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (25 grams) granulated sugar
40 macaron shells, whole, misshapen, or broken
1 recipe of your favorite pastry cream (page 128)
(continued)
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1 recipe of your favorite fruit filling (page 184)
1 pint (340 grams) raspberries or your favorite fruits
2 tablespoons (26 grams) of your favorite brandy, rum,
or other spirit (optional)
Put the cream and the sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attach-
ment and whip on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 8 minutes. Set aside.
Arrange one layer of macaron shells at the bottom of a clear glass bowl (I use a 73⁄4- by
41⁄2-inch or 20-by 12-cm trifle bowl) or distributed among 8 small glasses. Spoon one-third
of the pastry cream over the macarons, then one-third of the fruit filling and one third of
the raspberries. Sprinkle some brandy if using. Repeat until you have used up all the ingre-
dients. Spoon or spread the whipped cream over the top. Let the trifle sit for a day if you
can resist, covered and refrigerated, before serving to allow the flavors of all the layers to
combine.
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Troubleshooting Guide
Macarons have a reputation for being troublesome.
Because so many variables can affect the finished product, it can take a few
tries to make perfectly smooth shells. Even the most established chefs admit
that they have bad macaron days, and pastry shops try to have the same (expe-
rienced) baker make them every day.
When you make macarons for the first time, pipe and bake just a couple once
your batter is ready. This will allow you to troubleshoot any oven or batter
issues before baking the full batch.
Most problems can be traced to your oven and how it bakes. To a lesser
extent, measuring issues play a role in inconsistent results. And last, weather
matters, too—humid days, for example, make it more difficult to obtain per-
fect macarons. This section allows you to troubleshoot a particular issue you
may encounter.
A lot of what happens between a successful and unsuccessful batch is very
subtle. It helps if you bake macarons often. Modify one variable at a time so
that you know what technique is working for you and what factors are not.
The results listed below are possible results, not necessarily inter-related.
In other words, one situation can have multiple effects.
249
troubleshooting guide
Ingredient Measuring-Related Issues
S C E N A R I O A : Too much almond flour
RESULT 1: Excessive browning
RESULT 2: Sliding of shell off feet
RESULT 3: Batter too stiff
REMEDY: Measure more accurately, using a scale.
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Problems Related to Mixing or Piping
S C E N A R I O A : Whipping time too long
(egg white peaks don’t form in 10 minutes or so)
RESULT 1: Feet too large
RESULT 2: Cracking
REMEDY: Whip the meringue for fewer minutes, either using a higher
speed on an electric stand mixer, or a wider bowl if whipping by hand.
When there is a lot of humidity in the air, the meringue can take
longer to form; increase the mixer speed slightly. If the air is very dry,
overwhipping might take place more easily; stop the mixer more fre-
quently to check.
251
troubleshooting guide
SCENARIO D: Baking sheets not slammed enough after piping,
before baking, to remove all the extra air from the batter
RESULT: Air pocket inside shell
REMEDY: Slam the sheets vigorously.
OVER-MACARONNER
If you fold the batter for too long, the macarons may spread and have poorly shaped shells
and feet. Your batter might also look really wet. If the batter is completely loose and too
liquid, you will have trouble piping the right shapes and the macarons will be too flat. The
next time, fold less.
UNDER-MACARONNER
Not incorporating the dry ingredients enough might result in a meringue that is too strong
to allow the formation of the feet and popped-up crust that characterize macarons. The
tops of the shells could also be lumpy. If the shells hold their shapes after piping and do
not settle into a smooth surface, you will have “tails” (or peaks) in the center of the mac-
arons after baking them. You need to fold a few more times, or what you will bake will be
more of a meringue cookie than a macaron. If you’ve been doing so (folding more than 10
more times) and the batter still hasn’t loosened, spoon the batter into the piping bag, then
squeeze it out and immediately refill the bag.
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Troubleshooting the Baking Process
SCENARIO A: Shell too strong, too dry
RESULT: Batter doesn’t know where to go, spreads outward
REMEDY: Bake quicker (follow the alternate baking instructions,
page 256), at higher initial heat to reduce the drying time.
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troubleshooting guide
REMEDY: Whip the meringue fewer minutes (when the meringue is
whipping properly, it will be shiny and glossy); bake immediately at the
higher temperature, without drying the shells at 200ºF (95ºC); try the
Italian meringue method; freeze the finished shells, unwrapped, for 1
hour.
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S C E N A R I O F : Shells are difficult to remove, and have a dark
or sunken center in the shell
REMEDY 1: Bake on fewer baking sheets, and use alternate baking
instructions to get more heat into the shells (page 256).
REMEDY 2: Freeze baked shells on the silicone baking mat or parch-
ment paper for 2 hours before removal, or let them sit on the pan 24
hours at room temperature, then carefully slide a metal offset spatula
under each shell to remove it, applying downward pressure to not
crack it.
REMEDY 3: Switch to a silicone baking mat.
255
troubleshooting guide
Oven Temperature Issues
and Alternate Baking Instructions
257
resources
ATLANTIC SPICE COMPANY Another industry supplier that sells to the
www.atlanticspice.com public, this company supplies almond
2 Shore Road, Truro, MA flour and specialty baking ingredients
(508) 487-6100 such as powdered egg whites, choco-
Great source for parsley powder and lates, cacao nibs, fruit purées, vanilla
edible flower petals such as rose and beans, and praline paste.
lavender.
D’ARTAGNAN
AUI (ALBERT USTER IMPORTS) www.dartagnan.com
www.auiswiss.com (800) 327-8246
(800) 231-8154 The products of this specialty meats com-
This long-time supplier to chefs around pany, including duck confit and foie gras,
the country sells almond flour, powdered are available in gourmet food shops
fruits and licorice powder, specialty bak- nationwide and online.
ing ingredients such as chocolates, cacao
nibs, flavor compounds, fruit purées, L’EPICERIE
vanilla beans, and praline paste. www.lepicerie.com
(866) 350-7575
CHEF RUBBER L’Epicerie sells smaller quantities of
www.shopchefrubber.com ingredients previously sold only whole-
(702) 614-9310 sale. It offers powdered fruits and licorice
A good resource for unusual food color- powder, nut flours, praline paste, fruit
ings, including powders, as well as equip- purées, flavor compounds, pure natural
ment such as digital scales. flavors, essential and citrus oils, and other
specialty baking ingredients.
THE CHEFS’ WAREHOUSE
www.chefswarehouse.com
(718) 842-8700
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JB PRINCE (212) 675-2253
www.jbprince.com and NY Cake West
36 E. 31st Street, New York, NY 10665 W. Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles,
(800) 473-0577 CA 90064
This equipment retailer sells baking (310) 481-0875
sheets, piping bags and tips, and silicone This New York institution now also has a
baking mats. location in Los Angeles, and ships all over
the world. It sells food colorings, choco-
KEREKES lates, pearl sugar, specialty baking ingre-
www.bakedeco.com dients, and equipment such as baking
6103 15th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY sheets, silicone baking mats, parchment
(718) 232-7044 paper, and piping bags and tips.
You will find there a large assortment of
unusual food colorings, including pow- PARIS GOURMET
ders, and other equipment such as parch- www.pastrygourmet.com
ment paper and piping bags. (800) PASTRY-1
Another good source for almond flour,
KING ARTHUR FLOUR chocolates, fruit purées, vanilla beans,
www.kingarthurflour.com and other specialty ingredients.
135 US Rt. 5 South, Norwich, VT
(800) 827-6836 PFEIL & HOLING
This miller of fine flours is a great source www.cakedeco.com
for almond flour, pearl sugar, almond 58-15 Northern Boulevard, Woodside, NY
paste, and other baking ingredients. (800) 247-7955
This cake decorating company supplies
NY CAKE & BAKING DISTRIBUTORS food colorings, including powders, and
www.nycake.com equipment such as piping bags and tips.
56 W. 22nd Street, New York, NY
259
resources
SUGARPASTE/CRYSTAL COLORS ingredients at your local branch of this
www.sugarpaste.com national retailer.
574-233-6524
This company offers a beautiful assort- WHOLE FOODS, LOCAL BRANCHES
ment of unusual food colorings. www.wholefoodsmarket.com
You will find almond flour and other com-
TRADER JOES mon baking and cooking ingredients at
www.traderjoes.com your local branch of this national retailer.
You will find almond flour, chocolates,
and other common baking and cooking
260
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Acknowledgments
FROM KATHRYN AND ANNE:
We first need to thank the millions of people around the world who love
macarons and have made them popular enough that we could write a book
about them, and the pastry chefs who tirelessly make them, innovating with
flavors, fillings, and decoration techniques and provide us with such inspi-
ration.
We are grateful to our agent, Jennifer Griffin, for having found the per-
fect home for this project. She was a supporter and an advocate every step
of the way.
Our editor, Kristen Green Wiewora, and art director, Amanda Richmond,
are as passionate about macarons as we are, which made them the perfect
companions for this journey. All authors should be so lucky to find such
champions for their project. Kristen’s thoughtful and attentive editing
resulted in improvements every step of the way. Thank you also to copy
editor Alice Sullivan.
Please visit us online: Kathryn’s website is www.moulinbregeon-
cuisinecourses.com, and Anne’s website is www.potsandplumes.com.
261
acknowledgments
FROM KATHRYN:
Many friends were instrumental in the development of this book:
Kurt Walrath, the pastry chef who taught me how to make macarons (using
Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pascal Brunstein’s macaron method).
Hervé Poussot, another former boss at Le Bernardin and Windows on the
World, who really understands macarons as the chef-owner of Almondine.
New York pastry chefs Eric Bedoucha (chef-owner of Financier) and
Richard Capezzi (formerly at Bouchon Bakery) for allowing me into their
production facilities and providing assistance with macaron walking tours
and high-volume production techniques.
Pastry chefs Stephan Iten and Stéphane Glacier, MOF for their help over
the years troubleshooting macarons during the annual World Pastry Forum.
My professional colleagues and friends, pastry chefs Jeff Yoskowitz and
Tina Körting, for help brainstorming and pushing me to expand my knowl-
edge of macaron baking procedures.
Anne, whom I got to know better in the course of this project, for her dili-
gent research and seemingly tireless efforts during the writing process.
Rick Smilow, the president of the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE),
who generously let me test recipes there.
The myriad of ICE alumni and students, and macaron lovers encountered
along the way, particularly Ed DeLandri, Trevor Hardwick, Shelly Lee Gold-
berg, and Michele Friedman, who helped me teach hands-on macaron
classes, test shell recipes in their home ovens, and deepen my knowledge of
this subject.
My partner Jessie Riley, who turned out to be the ultimate recipe tester and
food stylist.
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FROM ANNE:
I am grateful to have had the opportunity to collaborate with Kathryn on this
project. She is one of the most hard-working and thorough people I have
ever met, and made writing this book with her an absolute pleasure and con-
stant source of learning and inspiration.
My husband, Ron McBride, patiently ate all the macarons I fed him, no
matter what time of day or his appetite. I am forever thankful for both his
loving support and his balanced meals.
My family in Switzerland and France gave me the love of good food, and
that includes good pastry. I can’t think of a better homage to that than a book
on macarons.
Cesar Vega, food scientist extraordinaire, was a ready consultant for all
matters of technical questions. Every conversation taught me much and
resulted in engaging exchanges.
Jackie Rohel was a willing recipe tester as well as an encouraging and wel-
coming ear throughout the process, as were Meryl Rosofsky, Tae Ellin, and
Courtney Knapp, and all the friends who humored lengthy macaron-related
discussions.
Fabio Parasecoli provided quick and able etymological assistance, includ-
ing translation, with his usual generosity.
263
acknowledgments
Index
Note: Page references in italics indicate photographs. Apricot-Passion Pâte de Fruit, 199–200
Apricot-Vanilla Jam, 191
A
Almond flour B
about, 16 Bacon-Maple-Bourbon Filling, 236, 237
buying and storing, 16 Base recipes (Almond shells)
Cocoa Shells, 74, 75 French Meringue Method, 40–44
Cocoa Shells with Cacao Nibs, 75 Italian Meringue Method, 45–50
drying, 17 Kathryn’s Easiest French Macaron Method, 55–58
French Meringue Method, 40–44 Swiss Meringue Method, 51–54
Italian Meringue Method, 45–50 Basil Buttercream, 136–138, 137
Kathryn’s Easiest French Macaron Method, 55–58 Beehives, Chocolate, 244, 245–246
making your own, 67 Blackberry Jelly, 198
Red Velvet Shells, 76 Blackberry Shells, 81, 152
Swiss Meringue Method, 51–54 Black Currant Gastrique with Foie Gras Filling,
Almond(s). See also Almond flour 231–233, 232
-Cherry Cream, 156 Black Pepper Shells, 100, 101
Chocolate Beehives, 244, 245–246 Blood Orange Caramel, 164, 165–166
Ice Milk, 176 Bourbon
-Lemon Cream, 157 -Maple-Bacon Filling, 236, 237
Shells, 40 -Pumpkin Buttercream, 143–144
American classics Brittle, Sesame, 140
about, 205 Buttercreams
Carrot Cake Filling, 209–210 Basil, 136–138, 137
Dulce de Leche Filling, 209 freezing, 129
German Chocolate Cake Filling, 206, 207 Gingerbread, 144
Key Lime with Marshmallow Fluff Filling, Maple, 133
212–214, 213 meringue-based, about, 129
Red Velvet Cake Filling, 208 Oatmeal Cookie, 141–142
S’mores Filling, 216, 217 piping onto shells, 130
spooning or piping onto shells, 205 Pistachio, 134–135
Tropical Piña Colada Filling, 214–215 Pumpkin-Bourbon, 143–144
Ancho Chile Shells, 102 Sesame, 139–140
Anise Ice Milk, 177 Vanilla, 87, 131–132
Apple–Cinnamon Butter with Calvados, 187 Buttermilk-Orange Ice Milk, 178
Apricot-Ginger-Chocolate Caramel, 170–171
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Chicken Mole Filling, 229–230
C Cinnamon Cappuccino Ganache with Chocolate-
Cacao Nib Ganache, Crunchy, 106, 107 Cinnamon Crunch, 108–109
Cacao Nibs, Cocoa Shells with, 75 -Cinnamon Crunch, 109
Calvados, Cinnamon–Apple Butter with, 187 Cocoa Shells, 74, 75
Campari, Lemon Marmalade with, 194, 195–196 Cocoa Shells with Cacao Nibs, 75
Caramel fillings Crunchy Cacao Nib Ganache, 106, 107
Apricot-Ginger-Chocolate, 170–171 Crunchy Hazelnut Gianduja Ganache, 126
Blood Orange, 164, 165–166 Dark, Caramel, Creamy, 172, 173
Coconut, 166–167 Earl Grey Ganache, 123
Creamy Dark Chocolate, 172, 173 Fudgesicle, 179–180
Fleur de Sel, 160–162, 161 Lapsang Souchong with Whiskey, 122–123
making ahead, note about, 162 Lemon–Star Anise Ganache, 100, 118–119
making caramel for, 159 melting, 125
piping onto shells, 159 -Mint Ganache, 112, 113–114
Raspberry–White Chocolate, 168–169 Peanut Gianduja Ganache, 127
Rosemary, 162–163 Red Velvet Shells, 76
Cardamom Shells, 84 Sarah Bernhardts, 240, 241
Carrot Cake Filling, 209–210 S’mores Filling, 216, 217
Cashew Shells, 68 -Tarragon Ganache, 114
Cassis tempering, 242
Foie Gras with Black Currant Gastrique, Cinnamon
231–233, 232 -Apple Butter with Calvados, 187
–White Chocolate Ganache, 93, 124–125 Cappuccino Ganache with Chocolate-Cinnamon
Chai Ganache, 119–121, 120 Crunch, 108–109
Chamomile Ice Milk, 182, 183 -Chocolate Crunch, 109
Cheese. See Chèvre; Cream cheese Shells, 84, 106
Cherry, Sour, Compote, 189 Citrus, juicing and zesting, 77
Cherry-Almond Cream, 156 Cocoa
Chèvre-Rosemary Filling, 96, 222–223 Red Velvet Shells, 76
Chicken Mole Filling, 229–230 Shells, 74, 75
Chickpeas Shells with Cacao Nibs, 75
Hummus Filling, 220–221 Coconut
Chile(s) Caramel, 166–167
Ancho, Shells, 102 German Chocolate Cake Filling, 206, 207
Chicken Mole Filling, 229–230 Shells, 68, 172
-Pineapple-Kumquat Marmalade, 192–193 Coffee. See Espresso
Chocolate. See also White Chocolate Compotes
-Apricot-Ginger Caramel, 170–171 about, 185
Beehives, 244, 245–246 Ginger-Honey-Plum, 190, 194
Chai Ganache, 119–121, 120 Sour Cherry, 189
index
265
Confectioners’ sugar, 17
Cream cheese F
Carrot Cake Filling, 209–210 Fig and Port, Duck Confit with, 234–235
Red Velvet Cake Filling, 208 Fillings. See also American classics; Caramel fillings;
Cream of tartar, 20–21 Creamy fillings; Frozen fillings; Fruit-based fillings;
Creamy fillings. See also Buttercreams Ganache; Savory fillings
Cherry-Almond Cream, 156 piping onto shells, 32–33, 63
curds, about, 129 Five Spice Shells, 85
Ginger Cream, 69, 146–147 Flavor compounds, about, 22–23, 80
Key Lime Curd, 150–151 Fleur de Sel Caramel, 160–162, 161
Lemon-Almond Cream, 157 Flour, nut-based. See also Almond flour
Lemon Curd, 149–150 making your own, 67
Orange Cream, 73, 145–146 Foie Gras with Black Currant Gastrique Filling, 231–
Passion Fruit Pastry Cream, 155 233, 232
pastry creams, about, 129 Food coloring, working with, 21–22, 66
Pear Cream, 148 French Macaron Method, Kathryn’s Easiest, 55–58
Popcorn Pastry Cream, 152, 153–154 French meringue, about, 34, 35
refrigerating, before using, 150 French Meringue Method, 40–44
Crunch, Chocolate-Cinnamon, 109 Frozen fillings
Curds Almond Ice Milk, 176
about, 129 Anise Ice Milk, 177
Key Lime, 150–151 Chamomile Ice Milk, 182, 183
Lemon, 149–150 Fudgesicle, 179–180
refrigerating, before using, 150 Honey Frozen Yogurt, 180
notes about, 174, 175
D Orange-Buttermilk Ice Milk, 178
Duck Confit with Port and Fig Filling, 234–235 Persimmon Ice Milk, 181
Dulce de Leche Filling, 209 scooping onto shells, 175
Fruit. See also Fruit-based fillings; specific fruits
E citrus, juicing and zesting, 77
Earl Grey Ganache, 123 Fresh, Macaron Tarts, Open-Face, 243
Egg whites Fruit-based fillings
“aged,” note about, 19 about, 185
powdered, about, 20 Apricot-Passion Pâte de Fruit, 199–200
whipping, 26 Apricot-Vanilla Jam, 191
whisking, 18 Blackberry Jelly, 198
Espresso checking temperature of, 186
Cinnamon Cappuccino Ganache with Chocolate- Chile-Pineapple-Kumquat Marmalade, 192–193
Cinnamon Crunch, 108–109 Cinnamon-Apple Butter with Calvados, 187
Shells, 76, 161 Ginger-Honey-Plum Compote, 190, 194
Extracts, note about, 80 Lemon Marmalade with Campari, 194, 195–196
266
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index
Pear Pâte de Fruit, 202 Green Tea Shells, 86, 87
Pumpkin-Spice Butter, 188 Guava-Strawberry Pâte de Fruit, 200–202, 201
Sour Cherry Compote, 189
spooning onto shells, 186 H
storing, 186 Hazelnut
Strawberry-Guava Pâte de Fruit, 200–202, 201 Gianduja, Crunchy, Ganache, 126
White Peach Jam, 197 Nougatine, 127
Fruit butters Shells, 68
about, 185 Honey-Ginger-Plum Compote, 190, 194
Cinnamon-Apple Butter with Calvados, 187 Honey Frozen Yogurt, 180
Pumpkin-Spice Butter, 188 Hummus Filling, 220–221
Fudgesicle, 179–180
I
G Ice milk. See under Frozen fillings
Ganache Italian meringue, about, 34
Cassis–White Chocolate, 93, 124–125 Italian Meringue Method, 45–50
Chai, 119–121, 120
Chocolate-Mint, 112, 113–114 J
Chocolate-Tarragon, 114 Jams
Cinnamon Cappuccino with Chocolate-Cinnamon about, 185
Crunch, 108–109 Apricot-Vanilla, 191
cooling, tip for, 105 White Peach, 197
Crunchy Cacao Nib, 106, 107 Jelly, Blackberry, 198
Crunchy Hazelnut Gianduja, 126
Earl Grey, 123 K
Green Tea and White Chocolate, 115 Kathryn’s Easiest French Macaron Method, 55–58
Lapsang Souchong with Whiskey, 122–123 Key Lime Curd, 150–151
Lemon–Star Anise, 100, 118–119 Key Lime with Marshmallow Fluff Filling, 212–214, 213
Peanut Gianduja, 127 Kumquat-Chile-Pineapple Marmalade, 192–193
piping onto shells, 105
Rose-Raspberry, 90, 110–111 L
White Chocolate–Grapefruit, 116–117 Lapsang Souchong with Whiskey, 122–123
German Chocolate Cake Filling, 206, 207 Lavender Shells, 89
Ginger Lemon(s)
-Apricot-Chocolate Caramel, 170–171 -Almond Cream, 157
Cream, 69, 146–147 Curd, 149–150
Gingerbread Buttercream, 144 juicing and zesting, 77
-Honey-Plum Compote, 190, 194 Marmalade with Campari, 194, 195–196
Shells, 85 -Poppyseed Shells, 78
Grapefruit–White Chocolate Ganache, 116–117 Shells, 78
Green Tea and White Chocolate Ganache, 115 –Star Anise Ganache, 100, 118–119
267
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petits macarons
title
Licorice Shells, 79, 183 Macaron shells (recipes)
Lime(s) Almond (French Meringue Method), 40–44
juicing and zesting, 77 Almond (Italian Meringue Method), 45–50
Key, Curd, 150–151 Almond (Kathryn’s Easiest French Macaron
Key, with Marshmallow Fluff Filling, 212–214, 213 Method), 55–58
Shells, 78, 213 Almond (Swiss Meringue Method), 51–54
Ancho Chile, 102
M Blackberry, 81, 152
Macadamia Shells, 68, 69 Black Pepper, 100, 101
Macaronnage process, 26–27 Cardamom, 84
Macarons Cashew, 68
alternate baking instructions, 256 Cinnamon, 84, 106
anatomy of, 14–15 Cocoa, 74, 75
appearance and flavor, 13 Cocoa, with Cacao Nibs, 75
French-style versus American-style, 9 Coconut, 68, 172
history of, 10–12 Espresso, 76, 161
oven temperature issues, 256 Five Spice, 85
preparing, techniques for, 24–33 Ginger, 85
primary ingredients, 16–18 Green Tea, 86, 87
secondary ingredients, 20–23 Hazelnut, 68
“skin and feet,” 14–15 Lavender, 89
troubleshooting guide, 249–255 Lemon, 78
Macarons, less-than-perfect Lemon-Poppyseed, 78
Chocolate Beehives, 244, 245–246 Licorice, 79, 183
Open-Face Fresh Fruit Macaron Tarts, 243 Lime, 78, 213
Sarah Bernhardts, 240, 241 Macadamia, 68, 69
Trifle, 246–248, 247 Marigold, 88, 183
Macaron shells. See also Macaron shells (recipes) Mint, 80, 112
baked, cooling and removing, 31–32 Orange, 77, 164
baked, filling, 32–33, 63 Parsley, 96, 97
baked, storing, 33 Passion Fruit, 83, 120
baking, 31, 59–61 Pecan, 68, 206
baking times by size, 39 Pink Peppercorn, 96, 101
base macaron methods, 34–39 Pistachio, 70, 71
equipment for, 36 Red Velvet, 76
folding ingredients together, 26–29 Rose, 90, 91
macaronnage process, 26–27 Saffron, 98, 99
measuring ingredients for, 24 Sesame, 102, 227
piping onto baking sheet, 29–31, 59–61 Strawberry, 82, 201
preparing baking sheets for, 25, 38 Vanilla, 72, 73
savory, ingredient substitutions for, 95 Violet, 92, 93
whipping egg whites for, 26 Walnut, 68, 236
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Wasabi, 103, 183 Shells, 83, 120
Macaroons, American, description of, 9 Pastry Creams
Maple-Bacon-Bourbon Filling, 236, 237 about, 129
Maple Buttercream, 133 Passion Fruit, 155
Marigold Shells, 88, 183 Popcorn, 152, 153–154
Marmalades Pâte de Fruits
about, 185 about, 185
Chile-Pineapple-Kumquat, 192–193 Apricot-Passion, 199–200
Lemon, with Campari, 194, 195–196 Pear, 202
Marshmallow Fluff with Key Lime Filling, 212–214, 213 Strawberry-Guava, 200–202, 201
Meringue Peach, White, Jam, 197
French, about, 34, 35 Peanut butter
French Method, 40–44 Peanut Gianduja Ganache, 127
Italian, about, 34 Thai Chile–Peanut Filling, 225–226
Italian, Method, 45–50 Pear Cream, 148
Swiss, about, 34 Pear Pâte de Fruit, 202
Swiss, Method, 51–54 Pecan(s)
Mint-Chocolate Ganache, 112, 113–114 German Chocolate Cake Filling, 206, 207
Mint Shells, 80, 112 Shells, 68, 206
Mushrooms and White Wine Filling, 223–224 Pectin, yellow, about, 203
Persimmon Ice Milk, 181
N Piña Colada Filling, Tropical, 214–215
Nougatine, Hazelnut, 127 Pineapple
Nut(s). See also specific types of nuts -Chile-Kumquat Marmalade, 192–193
flour, making your own, 67 Tropical Piña Colada Filling, 214–215
toasting, 135 Pink Peppercorn Shells, 96, 101
Pistachio(s)
O Buttercream, 134–135
Oatmeal Cookie Buttercream, 141–142 Shells, 70, 71
Orange(s) toasting, 135
Blood, Caramel, 164, 165–166 Plum-Ginger-Honey Compote, 190, 194
-Buttermilk Ice Milk, 178 Popcorn Pastry Cream, 152, 153–154
Cream, 73, 145–146 Poppyseed-Lemon Shells, 78
juicing and zesting, 77 Port and Fig, Duck Confit with, 234–235
Shells, 77, 164 Powdered egg whites, about, 20
Praline paste
P Crunchy Hazelnut Gianduja Ganache, 126
Parchment paper, 25 Pumpkin
Parsley Shells, 96, 97 Gingerbread Buttercream, 144
Passion Fruit -Spice Butter, 188
Apricot-Passion Pâte de Fruit, 199–200
Pastry Cream, 155
index
269
Strawberry Guava Pâte de Fruit, 200–202, 201
R Strawberry Shells, 82, 201
Raisins Sugar, confectioners’, 17
Carrot Cake Filling, 209–210 Sugar, granulated, 18
Oatmeal Cookie Buttercream, 141–142 Sugar syrup, testing temperature of, 130
Raspberry-Rose Ganache, 90, 110–111 Swiss meringue, about, 34
Raspberry–White Chocolate Caramel, 168–169 Swiss Meringue Method, 51–54
Red Velvet
Cake Filling, 208
Shells, 76
T
Tarragon-Chocolate Ganache, 114
Resources, 257–260 Tarts, Open-Face Fresh Fruit Macaron, 243
Rosemary Caramel, 162–163 Tea
Rosemary-Chèvre Filling, 96, 222–223 Earl Grey Ganache, 123
Rose-Raspberry Ganache, 90, 110–111 Green Tea and White Chocolate Ganache, 116-117
Rose Shells, 90, 91 Green Tea Shells, 86, 87
Lapsang Souchong with Whiskey, 122–123
S Thai Chile–Peanut Filling, 225–226
Saffron Shells, 98, 99 Tomato Confit Filling, 226–228, 227
Salt, 21 Trifle, 246–248, 247
Sarah Bernhardts, 240, 241 Tropical Piña Colada Filling, 214–215
Savory fillings
about, 219
Chèvre-Rosemary, 96, 222–223
V
Vanilla Buttercream, 87, 131–132
Chicken Mole, 229–230 Vanilla Shells, 72, 73
Duck Confit with Port and Fig, 234–235 Violet Shells, 92, 93
Foie Gras with Black Currant Gastrique, 231–233,
232
Hummus, 220–221
W
Walnut Shells, 68, 236
Maple-Bacon-Bourbon, 236, 237 Wasabi Shells, 103, 183
Mushrooms and White Wine, 223–224 Whiskey, Lapsang Souchong with, 122–123
spooning onto shells, 219 White Chocolate
Thai Chile–Peanut, 225–226 –Cassis Ganache, 93, 124–125
Tomato Confit, 226–228, 227 –Grapefruit Ganache, 116–117
Sesame seeds and Green Tea Ganache, 115
Sesame Brittle, 140 –Raspberry Caramel, 168–169
Sesame Buttercream, 139–140 Rose-Raspberry Ganache, 90, 110–111
Sesame Shells, 102, 227 White Peach Jam, 197
Silicone mats, 25
S’mores Filling, 216, 217
Sour Cherry Compote, 189
Y
Yellow pectin, about, 203
Star Anise–Lemon Ganache, 100, 118–119 Yogurt, Honey Frozen, 180
270
270
les petits macarons
index