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Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 1561412512 PDF
Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 1561412512 PDF
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Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques by The BC Cook Articulation Committee is licensed under a Creative Commons
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Contents
Accessibility Statement vi
Preface 2
1. Coagulation 4
2. Gelatinization 6
3. Crystallization 11
4. Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 13
5. Low-temperature and sous-vide cooking in the pastry shop 25
6. Activities 28
8. Garnishes 34
9. Dessert Sauces 38
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Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques vii
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1
Preface
The world of pastry and plated desserts has changed immensely over the last few decades. Once the
realm of cake slices and French pastries, now the modern pastry kitchen finds itself immersed in modern
techniques, new flavour combinations, and a desire to introduce traditionally savoury elements into the
dessert plate. In this book we will look at the techniques that are becoming commonplace and explore
the principles behind designing and plating modern desserts.
Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques is one of a series of Culinary Arts books developed
to support the training of students and apprentices in British Columbia’s food service and hospitality
industry. Although created with the Professional Cook and Baker programs in mind, these have been
designed as a modular series, and therefore can be used to support a wide variety of programs that offer
training in food service skills.
The series has been developed collaboratively with participation from public and private post-secondary
institutions.
2
I
Learning Objectives
Today we understand more than we once did about how ingredients of food scientifically interact
with one another and how to change them to make them different using methods such as jellifying,
powdering, foaming—methods common to what is known as molecular gastronomy. As a result,
modern pastry chefs are making amendments to time-honoured recipes to suit the modern palate. They
are not cutting corners to make a less professional or delicious product. They are using new technology
and knowledge that was not available 100 years ago, and they want to explore the creative side of pastry.
This creativity sometimes comes with an expectation of total freedom in the kitchen; an expectation that
one will be able to create without following any rules or requiring traditional recipe formats. While it’s
good to foster a creative mindset, it’s also important to acknowledge that creativity in baking must also
adhere to certain scientific and professional guidelines in order to make well-executed, consistent, and
delicious products. Chefs and cooks who embrace these new techniques are putting out products that
may be unusual to the eye or palate and may even touch the other senses or be experimental in technique,
but they are still keeping to the basic scientific principles that make baking as enjoyable as it has always
been.
Many of these scientific principles are ones that cooks, bakers, and pastry chefs have been using
for centuries, but in some cases have not referred to them by name, or in other cases have recently
discovered different ways of achieving the same effect using new techniques, ingredients, or equipment.
3
1.
Coagulation
Coagulation is defined as the transformation of proteins from a liquid state to a solid form. Once
proteins are coagulated, they cannot be returned to their liquid state. Coagulation often begins around
38°C (100°F), and the process is complete between 71°C and 82°C (160°F and 180°F). Within the
baking process, the natural structures of the ingredients are altered irreversibly by a series of physical,
chemical, and biochemical interactions. The three main types of protein that cause coagulation in the
bakeshop are outlined below.
Egg proteins
Eggs contain many different proteins. The white, or albumen, contains approximately 40 different
proteins, the most predominant being ovalbumin (54%) and ovotransferrin (12%). The yolk contains
mostly lipids (fats), but also lipoproteins. These different proteins will all coagulate when heated, but do
so at different temperatures. The separated white of an egg coagulates between 60°C and 65°C (140°F
and 149°F) and the yolk between 62°C and 70°C (144°F and 158°F), which is why you can cook an egg
and have a fully set white and a still runny yolk. These temperatures are raised when eggs are mixed
into other liquids. For example, the coagulation and thickening of an egg, milk, and sugar mixture, as in
custard, will take place between 80°C and 85°C (176°F and 185°F) and will start to curdle at 88°C to
90°C (190°F and 194°F).
Casein, a semi-solid substance formed by the coagulation of milk, is obtained and used primarily in
cheese. Rennet, derived from the stomach linings of cattle, sheep, and goats, is used to coagulate, or
thicken, milk during the cheese-making process. Plant-based rennet is also available. Chymosin (also
called rennin) is the enzyme used to produce rennet, and is responsible for curdling the milk, which will
then separate into solids (curds) and liquid (whey).
Milk and milk products will also coagulate when treated with an acid, such as citric acid (lemon juice) or
vinegar, used in the preparation of fresh ricotta, and tartaric acid, used in the preparation of mascarpone,
or will naturally curdle when sour as lactic acid develops in the milk. In some cases, as in the production
of yogurt or crème fraîche, acid-causing bacteria are added to the milk product to cause the coagulation.
Similarly, tofu is made from soybean milk that has been coagulated with the use of either salt, acid, or
enzyme-based coagulants.
4
5 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Two main proteins are found in wheat flour: glutenin and gliadin (smaller quantities are also found in
other grains). During mixing and in contact with liquid, these two form into a stretchable substance
called gluten. The coagulation of gluten is what happens when bread bakes; that is, it is the firming or
hardening of these gluten proteins, usually caused by heat, which solidify to form a firm structure.
2.
Gelatinization
Hydrocolloids
A hydrocolloid is a substance that forms a gel in contact with water. There are two main categories:
• Thermo-reversible gel: A gel that melts upon reheating and sets upon cooling. Examples are
gelatin and agar agar.
• Thermo-irreversible gel: A gel that does not melt upon reheating. Examples are cornstarch
and pectin.
Excessive heating, however, may cause evaporation of the water and shrinkage of the gel. Hydrocolloids
do not hydrate (or dissolve) instantly, and that hydration is associated with swelling, which easily causes
lumping. It is therefore necessary to disperse hydrocolloids in water. Classically, this has always been
done with cornstarch, where a portion of the liquid from the recipe is mixed to form a “slurry” before
being added to the cooking liquid. This can also be done with an immersion blender or a conventional
blender, or by mixing the hydrocolloid with a helping agent such as sugar, oil, or alcohol prior to
dispersion in water.
Starches
Starch gelatinization is the process where starch and water are subjected to heat, causing the starch
granules to swell. As a result, the water is gradually absorbed in an irreversible manner. This gives the
system a viscous and transparent texture. The result of the reaction is a gel, which is used in sauces,
puddings, creams, and other food products, providing a pleasing texture. Starch-based gels are thermo-
irreversible, meaning that they do not melt upon heating (unlike gelatin, which we will discuss later).
Excessive heating, however, may cause evaporation of the water and shrinkage of the gel.
The most common examples of starch gelatinization are found in sauce and pasta preparations and baked
goods.
• In sauces, starches are added to liquids, usually while heating. The starch will absorb liquid
and swell, resulting in the liquid becoming thicker. The type of starch determines the final
product. Some starches will remain cloudy when cooked; others will remain clear.
• Pasta is made mostly of semolina wheat (durum wheat flour), which contains high amounts
of starch. When pasta is cooked in boiling water, the starch in the pasta swells as it absorbs
water, and as a result the texture of the pasta softens.
6
7 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Starch molecules make up the majority of most baked goods, so starch is an important part of the
structure. Although starches by themselves generally can’t support the shape of the baked items, they do
give bulk to the structure. Starches develop a softer structure when baked than proteins do. The softness
of the crumb of baked bread is due largely to the starch. The more protein structure there is, the chewier
the bread.
Starches can be fairly straightforward extracts of plants, such as cornstarch, tapioca, or arrowroot,
but there are also modified starches and pre-gelatinized starches available that have specific uses. See
Table 1 for a list of different thickening and binding agents and their characteristics.
Gelatinization 8
Powder or sheets (leaves) dissolved in cold Used in aspic, glazes, cold sauces,
15-30 g water and desserts
gelatin
Gelatin
sets 1 L Added to cold or simmering liquid Clear, firm texture
liquid
Activates with heat, sets when cold Dissolves when reheated, thickens
when cold
Gelling agents
Gelatin is a water-soluble protein extracted from animal tissue and used as a gelling agent, a thickener,
an emulsifier, a whipping agent, a stabilizer, and a substance that imparts a smooth mouth feel to foods.
It is thermo-reversible, meaning the setting properties or action can be reversed by heating. Gelatin is
available in two forms: powder and sheet (leaf).
Gelatin is often used to stabilize whipped cream and mousses; confectionery, such as gummy bears
and marshmallows; desserts including pannacotta; commercial products like Jell-O; “lite” or low-fat
versions of foods including some margarines; and dairy products such as yogurt and ice cream. Gelatin
is also used in hard and soft gel capsules for the pharmaceutical industry.
Gelatinization 10
Agar agar is an extract from red algae and is often used to stabilize emulsions or foams and to thicken
or gel liquids. It is thermo-reversible and heat resistant.
It is typically hydrated in boiling liquids and is stable across a wide range of acidity levels. It begins to
gel once it cools to around 40ºC (100ºF) and will not melt until it reaches 85ºC (185ºF).
Pectin
Pectin is taken from citrus and other tree fruits (apples, pears, etc.). Pectin is found in many different
foods such as jam, milk-based beverages, jellies, sweets, and fruit juices. Pectin is also used in molecular
gastronomy mainly as a gelling agent, thickener, and stabilizer.
There are a variety of types of pectin that react differently according to the ingredients used. Low-
methoxyl pectin (which is activated with the use of calcium for gelling) and high-methoxyl pectin that
requires sugar for thickening are the two most common types used in cooking. High-methoxyl pectin is
what is traditionally used to make jams and jellies. Low-methoxyl pectin is often used in modern cuisine
due to the thermo-irreversible gel that it forms and its good reaction to calcium. Its natural capability to
emulsify and gel creates stable preparations.
Increasingly, cooks, bakers, and pastry chefs are turning to many different gels, chemicals, and other
substances used in commercial food processing as new ingredients to modify liquids or other foods.
These will be outlined in detail in the section on molecular gastronomy.
3.
Crystallization
Many factors can influence crystallization in food. Controlling the crystallization process can affect
whether a particular product is spreadable, or whether it will feel gritty or smooth in the mouth. In some
cases, crystals are something you try to develop; in others, they are something you try to avoid.
It is important to know the characteristics and quality of the crystals in different food. Butter, margarine,
ice cream, sugar, and chocolate all contain different types of crystals, although they all contain fat
crystals. For example, ice cream has fat crystals, ice crystals, and sometimes lactose crystals.
The fact that sugar solidifies into crystals is extremely important in candy making. There are basically
two categories of candies: crystalline (candies that contain crystals in their finished form, such as fudge
and fondant); and non-crystalline (candies that do not contain crystals, such as lollipops, taffy, and
caramels). Recipe ingredients and procedures for non-crystalline candies are specifically designed to
prevent the formation of sugar crystals because they give the resulting candy a grainy texture. One
way to prevent the crystallization of sucrose in candy is to make sure that there are other types of
sugar—usually fructose and glucose—to get in the way and slow down or inhibit the process. Acids can
also be added to “invert” the sugar, and to prevent or slow down crystallization. Fats added to certain
confectionary items will have a similar effect.
When boiling sugar for any application, the formation of crystals is generally not desired. These are
some of the things that can promote crystal growth:
Crystallization may be prevented by adding an interferent, such as acid (lemon, vinegar, tartaric, etc.) or
glucose or corn syrup, during the boiling procedure.
As mentioned above, ice cream can have ice and fat crystals that co-exist along with other structural
elements (emulsion, air cells, and hydrocolloid stabilizers such as locust bean gum) that make up the
“body” of the ice cream. Some of these components crystallize either partially or completely. The bottom
line is that the nature of the crystalline phase in the food will determine the quality, appearance, texture,
feel in the mouth, and stability of the product. The texture of ice cream is derived, in part, from the
large number of small ice crystals. These small ice crystals provide a smooth texture with excellent
melt-down and cooling properties. When these ice crystals grow larger during storage (recrystallization),
11
Crystallization 12
the product becomes coarse and less enjoyable. Similar concerns apply to sugar crystals in fondant and
frostings, and to fat crystals in chocolate, butter, and margarine.
Control of crystallization in fats is important in many food products, including chocolate, margarine,
butter, and shortening. In these products, the aim is to produce the appropriate number, size, and
distribution of crystals in the correct shape because the crystalline phase plays such a large role in
appearance, texture, spreadability, and flavour release. Thus, understanding the processes that control
crystallization is critical to controlling quality in these products.
Crystallization is important in working with chocolate. The tempering process, sometimes called pre-
crystallization, is an important step that is used for decorative and moulding purposes, and is a major
contributor to the mouth feel and enjoyment of chocolate. Tempering is a process that encourages the
cocoa butter in the chocolate to harden into a specific crystalline pattern, which maintains the sheen and
texture for a long time.
When chocolate isn’t tempered properly it can have a number of problems. For example, it may not ever
set up hard at room temperature; it may become hard, but look dull and blotchy; the internal texture may
be spongy rather than crisp; and it can be susceptible to fat bloom, meaning the fats will migrate to the
surface and make whitish streaks and blotches.
4.
Non-traditional thickeners
In addition to traditional starches, there are new ways to thicken sauces and to change the texture of
liquids. Some of these thickening agents work without heating and are simply blended with the cold
liquid, such as modified starch or xanthan gum. These allow the creation of sauces and other liquids with
a fresh, uncooked taste.
Liquids can be stabilized with gelatin, lecithin, and other ingredients, and then used to create foams by
whipping or using a special dispenser charged with nitrogen gas. A well-made foam adds an additional
flavour dimension to the dish without adding bulk, and an interesting texture as the foam dissolves in
the mouth (Figure 1).
13
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 14
Figure 1.
Espuma
Espuma is the Spanish term for froth or foam, and it is created with the use of a siphon (ISO) bottle. This
is a specific term, since culinary foams may be attained through other means.
Espuma from a siphon creates foam without the use of an emulsifying agent such as egg. As a result,
it offers an unadulterated flavour of the ingredients used. It also introduces much more air into a
preparation compared to other culinary aerating processes.
Espuma is created mainly with liquid that has air incorporated in it to create froth. But solid ingredients
can be used too; these can be liquefied by cooking, puréeing, and extracting natural juices. It should
be noted, though, that the best flavours to work with are those that are naturally diluted. Otherwise, the
espuma tends to lose its flavour as air is introduced into it.
Stabilizers may be used alongside the liquids to help retain their shape longer; however, this is not
always necessary. Prepared liquids can also be stored in a siphon bottle and kept for use. The pressure
from the bottle will push out the aerated liquid, producing the espuma.
15 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Foam
Foam is created by trapping air within a solid or liquid substance. Although culinary foams are most
recently associated with molecular gastronomy, they are part of many culinary preparations that date
back to even earlier times. Mousse, soufflé, whipped cream, and froth in cappuccino are just some
examples of common foams. Common examples of “set” foams are bread, pancakes, and muffins.
Foam does not rely on pressure to encase air bubbles into a substance. Like espuma, foam may also
be created with the help of a surfactant and gelling or thickening agents to help it hold shape. The
production of a culinary foam starts with a liquid or a solid that has been puréed. The thickening or
gelling agent is then diluted into this to form a solution. Once dissolved, the solution is whipped to
introduce air into it.
The process of whipping is done until the foam has reached the desired stiffness. Note that certain
ingredients may break down if they are whipped for too long, especially without the presence of a
stabilizing agent.
Gels
Turning a liquid, such as a vegetable juice or raspberry purée, into a solid not only gives it a different
texture but also allows the food to be cut into many shapes, enabling different visual presentations
(Figure 2). Regular gelatin can be used as well as other gelling agents, such as agar agar, which is derived
from red algae.
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 16
Figure 2.
Brittle gels
Gelling agents are often associated with jelly-like textures, which may range from soft to firm. However,
certain gels produced by specific agents may not fit this description.
Rather than forming an elastic or pliable substance, brittle gels may also be formed. These are gels that
are firm in nature yet fragile at the same time. This characteristic is caused by the formation of a gel
network that is weak and susceptible to breaking. This property allows brittle gels to crumble in the
mouth and create a melt-in-the-mouth feeling. As a result, new sensations and textures are experienced
while dining. At the same time, tastes within a dish are also enhanced due to the flavour release caused
by the gel breakdown.
Brittle gels are made by diluting the gelling agent into a liquid substance such as water, milk, or a stock.
This mixture is left to set to attain a gelled end product. It should be noted that the concentration of
gelling agents used, as well as the amount of liquid, both affect gelation.
Agar agar is a common agent used to create brittle gels. However, when combined with sugar it tends
to create a more elastic substance. Low-acyl gellan gum, locust bean gum, and carrageenan also create
brittle gels.
17 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Fluid gels
A fluid gel is a cross between a sauce, gel, and purée. It is a controlled liquid that has properties of
all three preparations. A fluid gel displays viscosity and fluidity at the same time, being thick yet still
spreadable.
Fluid gels behave as solids when undisturbed, and flow when exposed to sufficient agitation. They are
used in many culinary dishes where fluids need to be controlled, and they provide a rich, creamy texture.
A fluid gel is created using a base liquid that can come from many different sources. The base liquid
is commonly extracted from fruits and vegetables, taken from stocks, or even puréed from certain
ingredients. The longer the substance is exposed to stress, and the more intense the outside stress, the
more fluidity is gained. More fluidity causes a finer consistency in the gel.
Fluid gels can be served either hot or cold, as many of the gelling agents used for such preparations are
stable at high temperatures.
Drying a food intensifies its flavour and, of course, changes its texture. Eating a piece of apple that
has been cooked and then dehydrated until crisp is very different from eating a fresh fruit slice. If the
dehydrated food is powdered, it becomes yet another flavour and texture experience.
When maltodextrin (or tapioca maltodextrin) is mixed with fat, it changes to a powder. Because
maltodextrin dissolves in water, peanut butter (or olive oil) that has been changed to a powder changes
back to an oil in the mouth.
Freezing
In molecular gastronomy, liquid nitrogen is often used to freeze products or to create a frozen item
without the use of a freezer.
Liquid nitrogen is the element nitrogen in a liquefied state. It is a clear, colourless liquid with a
temperature of -196°C (-321°F). It is classified as a cryogenic fluid, which causes rapid freezing when it
comes into contact with living tissues.
The extremely cold temperatures provided by this liquefied gas are most often used in modern cuisine to
produce frozen foams and ice cream. After freezing food, nitrogen boils away, creating a thick nitrogen
fog that may also add to the aesthetic features of a dish.
Given the extreme temperature of liquid nitrogen, it must be handled with care. Mishandling may cause
serious burns to the skin. Nitrogen must be stored in special flasks and handled only by trained people.
Aprons, gloves, and other specially designed safety gear should be used when handling liquid nitrogen.
Used mainly in the form of a coolant for molecular gastronomy, liquid nitrogen is not ingested. It is
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 18
poured directly onto the food that needs to be cooled, causing it to freeze. Any remaining nitrogen
evaporates, although sufficient time must be provided to allow the liquefied gas to be eliminated and for
the dish to warm up to the point that it will not cause damage during consumption.
Spherification
Spherification is a modern cuisine technique that involves creating semi-solid spheres with thin
membranes out of liquids. Spheres can be made in various sizes and of various firmnesses, such as the
“caviar” shown in Figure 3. The result is a burst-in-the-mouth effect, achieved with the liquid. Both
flavour and texture are enhanced with this culinary technique.
There are two versions of the spherification process: direct and reverse.
In direct spherification, a flavoured liquid (containing either sodium alginate, gellan gum, or
carrageenan) is dripped into a water bath that is mixed with calcium (either calcium chloride or calcium
lactate). The outer layer is induced by calcium to form a thin gel layer, leaving a liquid centre. In this
version, the spheres are easily breakable and should be consumed immediately.
Calcium chloride and sodium alginate are the two basic components used for this technique. Calcium
chloride is a type of salt used in cheese making, and sodium alginate is taken from seaweed. The sodium
alginate is used to gel the chosen liquid by dissolving it directly into the fluid. This causes the liquid to
become sticky, and proper dissolving must be done by mixing. The liquid is then left to set to eliminate
any bubbles.
Once ready, a bath is prepared with calcium chloride and water. The liquid is then dripped into the bath
using a spoon or syringe depending on the desired sphere size. The gel forms a membrane encasing the
liquid when it comes into contact with the calcium chloride. Once set, the spheres are then removed and
rinsed with water to remove any excess calcium chloride.
In reverse spherification, a calcium-containing liquid (or ingredients mixed with a soluble calcium salt)
is dripped into a setting bath containing sodium alginate. Surface tension causes the drop to become
spherical. A skin of calcium alginate immediately forms around the top. Unlike in the direct version, the
gelling stops and does not continue into the liquid orb. This results in thicker shells so the products do
not have to be consumed immediately.
19 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Figure 3.
Videos on spherification:
Reverse: Molecular Gastronomy: Reverse Spherification to Make Spheres with Liquid Inside
There are a number of different ingredients used in molecular gastronomy as gelling, thickening, or
emulsifying agents. Many of these are available in specialty food stores or can be ordered online.
Algin
Another name for sodium alginate, algin is a natural gelling agent taken from the cell walls of certain
brown seaweed species.
Calcium chloride
Calcium chloride, also known as CaCl2, is a compound of chlorine and calcium that is a by-product of
sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) manufacturing. At room temperature it is a solid salt, which is easily
dissolved in water.
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 20
This is very salty and is often used for preservation, pickling, cheese production, and adding taste
without increasing the amount of sodium. It is also used in molecular gastronomy in the spherification
technique (see above) for the production of ravioli, spheres, pearls, and caviar (Figure 3).
Calcium lactate
Calcium lactate is a calcium salt resulting from the fermentation of lactic acid and calcium. It is a white
crystalline power when solid and is highly soluble in cold liquids. It is commonly used as a calcium
fortifier in various food products including beverages and supplements.
Calcium lactate is also used to regulate acidity levels in cheese and baking powder, as a food thickener,
and as a preservative for fresh fruits. In molecular gastronomy, it is most commonly used for basic
spherification and reverse spherification due to the lack of bitterness in the finished products.
Like calcium chloride, calcium lactate is used alongside sodium alginate. In regular spherification, it is
used in the bath. It is also used as a thickener in reverse spherification.
Carob bean gum is another name for locust bean gum. It is often used to stabilize, texturize, thicken,
and gel liquids in the area of modern cuisine, although it has been a popular thickener and stabilizer for
many years.
Carrageenan
Carrageenan refers to any linear sulfated polysaccharide taken from the extracts of red algae. This
seaweed derivative is classified mainly as iota, kappa, and lambda. It is a common ingredient in many
foods.
There are a number of purposes that it serves, including binding, thickening, stabilizing, gelling, and
emulsifying. Carrageenan can be found in ice cream, salad dressings, cheese, puddings, and many
more foods. It is often used with dairy products because of its good interaction with milk proteins.
Carrageenan also works well with other common kitchen ingredients and offers a smooth texture and
taste that blends well and does not affect flavour.
More often than not, carrageenan is found in powder form, which is hydrated in liquid before being used.
For best results, carrageenan powder should be sprinkled in cold liquid and blended well to dissolve,
although it may also be melted directly in hot liquids.
Citric acid
Classified as a weak organic acid, citric acid is a naturally occurring preservative that can be found in
citrus fruits. Produced as a result of the fermentation of sugar, it has a tart to bitter taste and is usually
in powder form when sold commercially. It is used mainly as a preservative and acidulent, and it is a
common food additive in a wide range of foods such as candies and soda. Other than extending shelf life
21 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
by adjusting the acidity or pH of food, it can also help enhance flavours. It works especially well with
other fruits, providing a fresh taste.
In modern cooking, citric acid is often used as an emulsifier to keep fats and liquids from separating. It
is also a common component in spherification, where it may be used as an acid buffer.
Gellan gum
Gellan gum is used as a stabilizer, emulsifier, thickener, and gelling agent in cooking. Aspics and terrines
are only some of the dishes that use gellan. It comes in both high-acyl and low-acyl forms. High-acyl
gellan gum produces a flexible elastic gel, while low-acyl gellan gum will give way to a more brittle gel.
Like many other hydrocolloids, gellan gum is used with liquids. The powder is normally dispersed in
the chosen liquid to dissolve it. Once dissolved, the solution is then heated to facilitate liquid absorption
and gelling by the hydrocolloid. A temperature between 85°C and 95°C (185°F and 203°F) will start the
dissolution process. Gelling will begin upon cooling around 10°C and 80°C (50°F and 176°F).
Gellan gum creates a thermo-irreversible gel and can withstand high heat without reversing in form. This
makes it ideal for the creation of warm gels.
Guar gum
Guar gum, or guaran, is a carbohydrate. This galactomannan is taken from the seeds of the guar plant
by dehusking, milling, and screening. The end product is a pale, off-white, loose powder. It is most
commonly used as a thickening agent and stabilizer for sauces and dressings in the food industry. Baked
goods such as bread may also use guar gum to increase the amount of soluble fibre. At the same time, it
also aids with moisture retention in bread and other baked items.
Being a derivative of a legume, guar gum is considered to be vegan and a good alternative to starches.
In modern cuisine, guar gum is used for the creation of foams from acidic liquids, for fluid gels, and for
stabilizing foams.
Guar gum must first be dissolved in cold liquid. The higher the percentage of guar gum used, the more
viscous the liquid will become. Dosage may also vary according to the ingredients used as well as
desired results and temperature.
Iota carrageenan
Iota carrageenan is a hydrocolloid taken from red seaweed (Eucheuma denticulatum). It is one of three
varieties of carrageenan and is used mainly as a thickening or gelling agent.
Gels produced from iota carrageenan are soft and flexible, especially when used with calcium salts. It
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 22
produces a clear gel that exhibits little syneresis. Iota is a fast-setting gel that is thermo-reversible and
remains stable through freezing and thawing. In modern cuisine it is used to create hot foams as well as
custards and jellies with a creamy texture.
Like most other hydrocolloids, iota carrageenan must first be dispersed and hydrated in liquid before
use. Unlike lambda carrageenan, it is best dispersed in cold liquid. Once hydrated, the solution must be
heated to about 70°C (158°F) with shear to facilitate dissolution. Gelling will happen between 40°C and
70°C (104°F and 158°F) depending on the number of calcium ions present.
Kappa carrageenan
Kappa carrageenan is another type of red seaweed extract taken specifically from Kappaphycus
alvarezii. Like other types of carrageenan, it is used as a gelling, thickening, and stabilizing agent. When
mixed with water, kappa carrageenan creates a strong and firm solid gel that may be brittle in texture.
This particular variety of carrageenan blends well with milk and other dairy products. Since it is taken
from seaweed, it is considered to be vegan and is an alternative to traditional gelling agents such as
gelatin.
Kappa carrageenan is used in various cooking preparations including hot and cold gels, jelly toppings,
cakes, breads, and pastries. When used in molecular gastronomy preparations and other dishes, kappa
carrageenan should be dissolved in cold liquid.
Once dispersed, the solution must be heated between 40°C and 70°C (104°F and 158°F). Gelling will
begin between 30°C and 60°C (86°F and 140°F). Kappa carrageenan is a thermo-reversible gel and will
stay stable up to 70°C (158°F). Temperatures beyond this will cause the gel to melt and become liquid
once again.
Locust bean gum, also known as LBG and carob bean gum, is a vegetable gum derived from
Mediterranean-region carob tree seeds. This hydrocolloid is used to stabilize, texturize, thicken, and gel
liquids in modern cuisine, although it has been a popular thickener and stabilizer for many years.
It has a neutral taste that does not affect the flavour of food that it is combined with. It also provides a
creamy mouth feel and has reduced syneresis when used alongside pectin or carrageenan for dairy and
fruit applications. The neutral behaviour of this hydrocolloid makes it ideal for use with a wide range of
ingredients.
To use locust bean gum, it must be dissolved in liquid. It is soluble with both hot and cold liquids.
Maltodextrin
Maltodextrin is a sweet polysaccharide that is produced from starch, corn, wheat, tapioca, or potato
through partial hydrolysis and spray drying. This modified food starch is a white powder that has the
23 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
capacity to absorb and hold water as well as oil. It is an ideal additive since it has fewer calories than
sugar and is easily absorbed and digested by the body in the form of glucose.
Coming from a natural source, it ranges from nearly flavourless to fairly sweet without any odour.
Maltodextrin is a common ingredient in processed foods such as soda and candies. In molecular
gastronomy, it can be used both as a thickener and a stabilizer for sauces and dressings, for
encapsulation, and as a sweetener. In many cases, it is also used as an aroma carrier due to its capacity
to absorb oil. It is also often used to make powders or pastes out of fat.
Sodium alginate
Sodium alginate, which is also called algin, is a natural gelling agent taken from the cell walls of certain
brown seaweed species. This salt is obtained by drying the seaweed, followed by cleaning, boiling,
gelling, and pulverizing it. A light yellow powder is produced from the process. When dissolved in
liquids, sodium alginate acts as a thickener, creating a viscous fluid. Conversely, when it is used with
calcium it forms a gel through a cold process.
In molecular gastronomy, sodium alginate is most commonly used as a texturizing agent. Foams and
sauces may be created with it. It is also used in spherification for the creation of pearls, raviolis, mock
caviar, marbles, and spheres. Sodium alginate can be used directly by dissolving it into the liquid that
needs to be gelled, as in the case of basic spherification. It may also be used inversely by adding it
directly to a bath, as in the case of reverse spherification.
This versatile product is soluble in both hot and cold liquids, and gels made with it will set at any
temperature.
Soy lecithin
Soy lecithin, also called just lecithin, is a natural emulsifier that comes from fatty substances found
in plant tissues. It is derived from soybeans either mechanically or chemically, and is a by-product of
soybean oil creation. The end product is a light brown powder that has low water solubility.
As an emulsifier, it works to blend immiscible ingredients together, such as oil and water, giving way to
stable preparations. It can be whisked directly into the liquid of choice.
Soy lecithin is also used in creating foams, airs, mousses, and other aerated dishes that are long lasting
and full of flavour. It is used in pastries, confections, and chocolate to enhance dough and increase
moisture tolerance.
As with most ingredients, dosage and concentration for soy lecithin will depend on the ingredients used,
specific properties desired in the resulting preparation, as well as other conditions.
Tapioca maltodextrin
Tapioca maltodextrin is a form of maltodextrin made from tapioca starch. It is a common ingredient in
molecular gastronomy because it can be used both as a thickener and stabilizer for sauces and dressings,
Molecular Gastronomy Techniques That May Be Used in the Pastry Shop 24
for encapsulation, and as a sweetener. In many cases it is also used as an aroma carrier due to its capacity
to absorb oil. It is often used to make powders or pastes out of fat.
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum is a food additive used as a thickening agent. It is produced through the fermentation of
glucose. As a gluten-free additive it can be used as a substitute in cooking and baking.
As a thickener, when used in low dosages, xanthan gum produces a weak gel with high viscosity that
is shear reversible with a high pourability. It also displays excellent stabilizing abilities that allow for
particle suspension.
Moreover, xanthan gum mixes well with other flavours without masking them and provides an improved
mouth feel to preparations. The presence of bubbles within the thickened liquids often makes way for
light and creamy textures. It is used in the production of emulsions, suspensions, raviolis, and foams.
Being a hydrocolloid, xanthan gum must be hydrated before use. High versatility allows it to be
dissolved over a wide range of temperatures, acid, and alcohol levels. Once set, xanthan gum may lose
some of its effectiveness when exposed to heat.
Media Attributions
Sous-vide cooking is about immersing a food item in a precisely controlled water bath, where the
temperature of the water is the same as the target temperature of the food being cooked. Food is placed
in a food-grade plastic bag and vacuum-sealed before going into the water bath. Temperatures will vary
depending on desired end result. This allows the water in the bath to transfer heat into the food while
preventing the water from coming into direct contact with it. This means the water does not chemically
interact with the food: the flavours of the food remain stronger, because the water is unable to dissolve
or carry away any compounds in the food (Figure 4).
Figure 4.
Cooking vegetable and fruits sous-vide is a great way to tenderize them without losing as many of the
vitamins and minerals that are normally lost through blanching or steaming. Fruits can also be infused
25
Low-temperature and sous-vide cooking in the pastry shop 26
with liquid when cooked at lower temperatures by adding liquid to the bag. Sous-vide helps preserve the
nutrients present in fruits and vegetables by not cooking them above the temperatures that cause the cell
walls to fully break down. This allows them to tenderize without losing all their structure. The bag also
helps to catch any nutrients that do come out of the vegetable.
While time and temperature do not factor into safety for fruits and vegetables, they do have a unique
effect on their structure. There are two components in fruits and vegetables that make them crisp: pectin
and starch. Pectin, which is a gelling agent commonly used in jams and jellies for structure, breaks down
at 83ºC (183ºF) at a slower rate than the starch cells do. In many cases this allows for more tender fruits
and vegetables that have a unique texture to them.
Custards
The term custard spans so many possible ingredients and techniques that it is most useful to think of a
custard as simply a particular texture and mouth feel. Custards have been made for centuries by lightly
cooking a blend of eggs, milk, and heavy cream, but modernist chefs have invented myriad ways to
make custards.
Using the sous-vide method to prepare crème anglaise, curds, ice cream bases, custard bases, sabayons,
and dulce de leche is possible. The technique offers greater consistency and more control over the
texture, which can range from airy, typical of a sabayon, to dense, as in a posset. For custards, eggs
will be properly cooked at 82°C (180ºF), so if the water bath is set to this temperature, no overcooking
can happen. The one constant among custards is the use of plenty of fat, which not only provides that
distinctive mouth feel but also makes custard an excellent carrier of fat-soluble flavours and aromas.
Lighter varieties of custard, prepared sous-vide style and cooled, can be aerated in a whipping siphon
into smooth, creamy foams.
Fruit compression
Vacuum-compressing fruits and vegetables is a popular modern technique that can give many plant foods
an attractive, translucent appearance (as shown in the watermelon in Figure 5) and a pleasant, surprising
texture. This technique exploits the ability of a vacuum chamber to reduce surrounding pressure, which
causes air and moisture within the plant tissue to rapidly expand and rupture the structures within the
food. When the surrounding pressure is restored to a normal level, the labyrinth of air-filled spaces
collapses. As a result, light tends to pass through the food rather than being scattered and diffused, which
is why vacuum-compressed plant foods appear translucent. Causing the porous structure of a plant food
to collapse also imparts a somewhat dense, toothsome texture that can give a familiar ingredient, such as
watermelon, an entirely new appeal.
27 Scientific Principles and Techniques Used in Modern Pastry
Figure 5.
Infusions
When adding liquids, the vacuum-seal process creates a rapid infusion—especially with more porous
foods (such as adding spices to cream or herbs to melon). This can add flavour and texture in a shorter
time than traditional infusions.
Media Attributions
Activities
Activities
• Use the spherification method (both direct and reverse) to create a component for a dessert plate.
• Use the sous-vide process to cook a custard.
• Use the vacuum-seal process to compress fruit.
28
II
Plated Desserts
Learning Objectives
What makes a worthy plated dessert? Many will argue presentation, complexity, or the type of plate it is
served on are important factors. Texture is also critical in making a dish successful. Mushy apples would
ruin an otherwise perfect apple pie, and how helpful is the granulated sugar garnish on the crust? But
most will still agree that the most important factor in creating an exceptional plated dessert is flavour.
Whether it is a simple slice of pie served in a casual restaurant, or an intricate, multicomponent dessert
crafted for a fine dining establishment, flavour is what makes a dessert memorable.
Dessert plating styles are constantly changing and evolving thanks to today’s creative pastry chefs and
cooks. Past trends included towering architectural assemblies that were impressive and beautiful to look
at but were difficult to eat, or making complex designs on the rims of plates with squirts of sauce or
dustings of cocoa or icing sugar (which often ended up on the diners’ sleeves). Gradually the trend has
shifted back to focus on flavour, and we have discovered that great-looking and great-tasting desserts
are obtainable without unnecessary complexity.
An important factor in the development of a plated dessert is to consider how it will work in relationship
to the restaurant’s theme and menu. Desserts and dessert menus should be considered a continuation
of the dining experience. It is essential to recognize that the dessert choices should not just be tacked
on at the end of a meal without first thinking through the style of menu, the type of business (pastry
shop, hotel, or restaurant; casual or high-end), and the clientele. You can make the most beautiful and
flavourful food possible, but if it doesn’t sell, you are doing a disservice to the business owners and
missing out on customer satisfaction. Desserts prepared with these concepts in mind are seen as products
that will not only increase the average cheque but will also draw public attention to the establishment
and to the creativity of the kitchen, thus bringing in more customers.
Because it is difficult to agree on how best to present a dessert, it is impossible to set down a list of hard-
and-fast rules to follow. Therefore, in this section we discuss a number of ideas that influence chefs and
cooks in their decisions and some of the factors to consider when planning a plated dessert.
29
7.
Customers love desserts, but not all customers will order them. In most restaurants, perhaps 50% of the
customers, at most, will have dessert. A majority of diners are simply too full to order a traditional full,
large dessert, but they would welcome something a little sweet or something to share. Most customers
who don’t order dessert might be interested if something light, refreshing, and intriguing were offered.
Therefore, when planning for variety, don’t forget to include simpler, lighter options that will appeal to
diners with smaller appetites. Having a cheese platter or perhaps a savoury dessert are popular options
too.
There are two stages to the art of the baker or pastry chef: first, making and baking all the doughs,
batters, fillings, creams, and sauces (with the correct techniques); and second, assembling these
components into finished desserts and pastries. The same principle is applied to plating dessert
presentations. A plated dessert is an arrangement of one or more components. For most desserts, all the
components are prepared well in advance. A plated dessert itself, however, is assembled à la minute (at
the last minute). All the components needed—including mousses, meringues, ice creams and sorbets,
cookies, dough, cake layers, pastry cream, and dessert sauces—are used to make a presentation that is
more than the sum of its parts.
When planning for a plated dessert, there are five characteristics that should be considered. Three apply
to mouth feel and flavour, and are the most important:
• Flavour
• Texture
• Temperature
• Colour
• Shape
Flavours should enhance or complement each other, such as a caramel sauce served with roasted fruit,
or offer a pleasing contrast, as a tart flavour (lemon) paired with a sauce that is sweetened. To achieve
this, taste the components separately and then together to evaluate and make sure they work together.
Plan for pleasing combinations of texture and temperature. If the main item is soft, such as a mousse or
ice cream, add a crisp or crunchy component such as small cookies or caramelized nuts for a texture
contrast. Temperature contrasts are also pleasing, such as a scoop of ice cream with a warm fruit tart.
Visually, a variety of colours and shapes can be attractive, but be careful not to include too much or the
30
31 Plated Desserts
result will come across as a jumble. The plate needs to be visually appealing. Through the balanced use
of colour and shape, you can present a dessert simply and elegantly. Let the food speak for itself. Brown
is a good colour, and a well-prepared dessert with a few shades of brown can look very appealing. A
traditional tarte tatin, for example, needs little or no garnish to make it look appealing if the apples have
been caramelized properly.
All of these elements together create a palette from which an infinite number of combinations affect you
differently whenever you put food on your table. Chefs and, now more than ever, pastry chefs are always
trying to push the senses to the limits in never-before-thought-of ways, but the underlying principles that
make food taste good are unchanged. Here is a short summary:
• Variety and diversity in textures and the elements of taste make for interesting food; avoid
monotony.
• Contrast is as important as harmony, but avoid extremes and imbalance.
• Food that comes from the same place (time/season or location) usually works together.
• Fresh and ripe rules every time.
Let’s now walk through the process of deciding on and preparing a finished dish.
Step 1: Visualize
When deciding what to make, you need to draw on what you have to work with. Consider the following:
Once you have the basic idea or main ingredients in mind, think of the flavour profile.
There are a number of elements making up all of the things you taste, depending on your cultural
background, but essentially there are only a handful of elements that compose all of the taste profiles.
Western definitions traditionally break taste into four major elements:
• Salty
• Sweet
• Sour
Plan Dessert Plating 32
• Bitter
The other senses contribute to the overall experience in a variety of ways. Imagine if food didn’t have the
following attributes, which in many cases provide our first impressions, lasting memories, and overall
like or dislike of a certain dish or dining experience:
• Temperature: both real and perceived (such as mint as a cooling sensation or spice as heat)
• Colour: use a wide palette
• Shape: create visual interest
• Texture: some of each creates contrast
• Mouth feel: dry, fat, rich
• Smells: avoid overpowering or distracting
• Sound: noisy, difficult foods may spoil a mood or setting
Learning Objectives
Many, if not most, dessert presentations can be improved with one or more items added to enhance them.
But before you add anything, take a moment to consider whether serving the dessert alone would be
effective. A simple, ungarnished plating is usually all that’s needed for a home-style dessert, and at the
opposite extreme, an elegant pastry or gateaux that is beautiful on its own may not need any additional
elements.
33
8.
Garnishes
A garnish, simply put, can be just an add-on whose main purpose is decoration. However, carefully
selected garnishes have other functions too. This “decorative” item can add important flavour, texture,
and functional elements to the plating of the dessert, and can enhance the enjoyment of the dish.
Garnishes can solve the problem of serving a frozen component (ice cream or sorbet, for example) as
part of a plated dessert. If a scoop of ice cream is placed directly onto the plate, it will start melting
immediately, marring the presentation. If that scoop is placed onto an item, such as a cookie base, it
will slow down the rate of melting, making it easier to serve, and allowing the customer to enjoy and
appreciate the effort spent on the presentation.
Other garnishes that can be used to help present a frozen component are:
• Tuiles, which will also add visual, flavour, and texture (crunchy) elements
• Sliced fruit
• Meringue disk
• Small cookie
• Chocolate garnish
• Crumbs (cake, crushed nuts, or brittle)
Some of the more popular items that can be used as garnishes are described below.
Tuiles
These thin cookies can be shaped in numerous ways: with a stencil, spread onto a silicone baking sheet;
combed; piped; or spread onto a textured flexible baking mat and then shaped while still warm. For a
recipe and variations, see the Appendix.
Meringues (hard)
When making meringues, keep the ratio of sugar to egg whites 1.5-2 to 1. Meringues can be made with
the common or Swiss technique, and must be dried in a low-temp oven for 12 to 36 hours. Meringue can
be piped into sticks, disks, or baskets such as those made to produce the classic French dessert vacherin.
34
35 Dessert Garnishes and Sauces
Sugar
Sugar can be used to make garnishes using several different methods. Pulled sugar is prepared by
cooking a sugar syrup to between 155°C and 160°C (310°F and 320°F) and then cooling, colouring,
folding, and stretching it into various shapes such as ribbons or bows. The same mixture can also be used
to make blown sugar garnishes, which are created by using a pump to create a balloon out of the slightly
cooled sugar syrup. Blown sugar is used to make things such as fruits, with many other possibilities.
Bubble sugar is made by pouring liquid sugar (150°C or 310°F) onto a special type of paper and then
lifting the paper and allowing it to run down, creating a bubbly effect.
Caramelized sugar: A sugar syrup is cooked to between 165°C and 185°C (330°F and 365°F), depending
on how dark you want the caramel to be. Once cooled to the proper consistency, it can be used to make
spun sugar, can be piped into shapes or sticks or drizzled over the back of a bowl to make a “caramel
cup,” or nuts can be dipped into the caramel and pulled to create spikes.
Isomalt sugar: Isomalt is a special type of sugar which can be cooked to the same temperature as caramel
without colouring. It also is less susceptible to moisture, so garnishes made with isomalt will hold up
better in conditions with high humidity. It can be used much like regular sugar to create pulled and blown
sugar, or sprinkled between two silicone baking sheets and baked at 175°C (350°F) for 12 to 15 minutes.
For additional effect, it can be dusted with powdered food colours before baking.
Chocolate
Chocolate has many different applications. Too thick a chocolate garnish can overpower the dessert, so
it must be delicate. In all cases, chocolate must be correctly tempered, which will ensure a crisp texture
and proper sheen. Some garnishes that can be prepared are chocolate curls, fans, and cigarettes, formed
by spreading a thin layer of tempered chocolate onto a marble slab and then shaping once partially set.
Chocolate can also be piped into shapes, mixed with nuts and poured to form bark, or mixed with cream
and used for spherification to create chocolate caviar.
Marzipan/rolled fondant
Marzipan and fondant can be rolled and cut out into shapes and figurines, or used for bases.
Filo pastry: Filo can be buttered and layered, with flavours, such as nuts, seeds, cocoa powder, herbs,
and spices, added between layers. It can also be cut into shapes and made into cups, etc., and baked.
Kataifi dough: Similar to a filo pastry but in thin strands, kataifi dough is commonly brushed with butter
before being baked. Can be tied into knots or baskets and baked off. Found in Middle Eastern cuisines.
Garnishes 36
Bric dough: Bric comes in sheets and is brushed with water, baked with cinnamon sugar, and cut to make
interesting shapes. Found in Middle Eastern cuisines.
Puff pastry: Puff pastry can be rolled into sheets and used as a base, cut and twisted to form straws and
allumettes, etc. Puff pastry also adds a textural component to desserts.
Choux paste: Choux paste can be piped or combed into long strands and dusted with seeds or nuts before
baking.
Cheese
Sprinkle grated hard cheese carefully onto a baking sheet and bake until crisp, approximately 5 to 10
minutes at 175°C (350°F). The pieces can be broken into shards when cool.
Berries and other fruits can be used fresh or dried to make fruit leather or powders.
Dried fruit: Firm fruits can be sliced thinly and soaked in sugar syrup with lemon juice briefly before
drying in a low-temperature (95°C or 200°F) oven on a silicone baking sheet for several hours. Fruit
treated the same way can also be dried in a dehydrator.
Candied zest: Citrus peels can be poached in sugar syrup and then cooled and coated in finely granulated
sugar.
Heat sugar syrup to the hard crack stage (148°C to 155°C or 310°F to 330°F) and add toasted nuts.
Remove, drain excess syrup, and cool. Nuts can also be chopped and cooked in a syrup to form a nut
brittle, which can be broken into pieces or ground to make a powder. A recipe is found in the Appendix.
Rice noodles
Rice or other noodles can be deep-fried briefly and tossed in cinnamon sugar.
Cookies
A wide range of cookies, such as sugar cookies, shortbreads, etc., can be used as garnishes. Cookies can
also be made from sweet dough (pate sucré), tart dough, etc.
37 Dessert Garnishes and Sauces
Sponges
Different types of cakes and sponges, such as genoise, angel food, japonaise, joconde, and baumkuchen,
can be sliced thinly and cut into different shapes.
“Caviar” and other interesting garnishes can be made with the reverse spherification method.
9.
Dessert Sauces
Sauces enhance desserts by both their flavour and their appearance, just as savoury sauces enhance
meats, fish, and vegetables. Crème anglaise, chocolate sauce, caramel sauce, and the many fruit sauces
and coulis are the most versatile. One or another of these sauces will complement nearly every dessert.
Caramel sauce: A proper caramel flavour is a delicate balance between sweetness and bitterness. As
sugar cooks and begins to change colour, a flavour change will occur. The darker the sugar, the more
bitter it will become. Depending on the application for the finished caramel, it can be made mild or
strong. At this point, a liquid is added. This liquid will serve several roles: it will stop the cooking
process, it can add richness and flavour, and it will soften the sauce. The fluidity of the finished sauce
will depend on the amount of liquid added to it, and the temperature it is served at. Dairy products, such
as cream, milk, or butter, will add richness; use water for a clear sauce; use fruit purées to add different
flavour elements.
Chocolate sauce: Sometimes called fudge sauce, chocolate sauce is generally made from cream (or
milk), butter, and chocolate, and can be served hot or cold. The proportion of each of the ingredients will
affect the thickness of the final product.
Compote: French for “mixture,” a compote is cooked fruit served in its own cooking liquid, usually a
sugar syrup. Compotes can be made with fresh, frozen, or dried fruits, and served hot or cold.
Coulis: French for “strained liquid,” a coulis is most often an uncooked, strained purée. Flavours remain
pure, and the colours bright. One of the drawbacks of using a coulis is that it may separate quickly when
used as a plating sauce. It’s best to use à la minute.
Crème anglaise: French for “English custard,” crème anglaise is a rich, pourable custard sauce that can
be served hot or cold over cake, fruits, or other desserts. Made with eggs, sugar, and milk or cream, it
is stirred over heat until it thickens into a light sauce. However, it’s a delicate operation: too much heat
turns it into scrambled eggs! It should not get above 85°C (185°F) during the cooking process. Vanilla
is the classic flavouring, but coffee, spices, chocolate, or liqueurs can be added. With additional yolks
and heavy cream, it becomes the “custard” used for French ice cream. With additional yolks, gelatin,
whipped cream, and flavouring, it becomes Bavarian cream.
Curd: A curd is creamy and fruit based, with citrus and berry flavours being the most popular. Made
from fruit juices, eggs, butter, and sugar cooked in a process similar to crème anglaise, curds can be
thick, pourable sauces or spreads.
38
39 Dessert Garnishes and Sauces
Fruit butter: Fruit butter is a spread made from whole fruits, cooked, reduced, and puréed (if you don’t
want any chunks in it) until very thick. It does not contain any butter; the term refers to the consistency.
Fruit sauce: A fruit sauce is a fruit purée, cooked and thickened with a starch. It is normally served cold.
Hard sauce: This traditional sauce for Christmas pudding, or any steamed pudding, is made by
combining butter, sugar, and flavourings, often liqueurs. It is normally piped into shapes and chilled,
then placed on the warm dessert just before serving.
Sabayon: Sabayon is a mixture of egg yolks, flavouring, and sugar beaten over simmering water until
thick, then beaten until cool. It is traditionally flavoured with sweet white wine or liquor, then served
over fresh fruit and grilled (when it is called a gratin). The Italian version of this is called a zabaglione
and is flavoured with Madeira wine.
Whipped cream: This very popular dessert topping can be served plain, sweetened, or flavoured. Crème
chantilly, a classic version of this, is a combination of whipped cream, sugar, and vanilla.
Except in the case of some home-style or frozen desserts, sauces are usually not ladled over the dessert
because doing so would mar the appearance. Instead, the sauce is applied in a decorative fashion to the
plate rather than the dessert. Many different styles of plate saucing are available.
Pouring a pool of sauce onto the plate is known as flooding. Although plate flooding often looks old-
fashioned today, it can still be a useful technique for many desserts. Flooded plates can be made more
attractive by applying a contrasting sauce and then blending or feathering the two sauces decoratively
with a pick or the end of a knife. For this technique to work, the two sauces should be at about the same
fluidity or consistency.
Rather than flooding the entire plate, it may be more appropriate for some desserts to apply a smaller
pool of sauce to the plate, as this avoids overwhelming the dessert with too much sauce.
A variation of the flooding technique is outlining, where a design is piped onto the plate with chocolate
and allowed to set. The spaces can then be flooded with colourful sauces.
A squeeze bottle is useful for making dots, lines, curves, and streaks of sauce in many patterns. Or just
a spoon is needed to drizzle random patterns of sauce onto a plate. Another technique for saucing is
applying a small amount of sauce and streaking it with a brush, an offset spatula, or the back of a spoon.
Sauces are a great way to highlight flavours. Choose ones that will create balance on the plate, not
just for colour, but with all the components. A tart berry sauce will complement a rich cheesecake or
chocolate dessert because sourness (acid) will cut through fat, making it taste lighter than it is. A sweet
sauce served with a sweet dessert will have the overall effect of hiding flavours in both. Hold back on
sweetness in order to intensify other flavours.
Many modern presentations may have a minimal amount of sauce. Sometimes this is done just for
Dessert Sauces 40
aesthetic reasons and not for how it will complement the dessert. Think of the dish and the balance of
the components. This is the most important factor: flavour first, presentation second.
IV
Dessert Presentation
Learning Objectives
After flavour, the second-most-important element in the design of a great plated dessert is presentation.
Simple, clean designs work very well. Simple desserts are more challenging because every detail counts
and flaws become more apparent. In order to appear appetizing, the dessert presentation must look
effortless and harmonious, with each component fitting together and contributing to the look and taste.
The presentation of food can be broken down into a checklist of design principles. In every medium,
artists learn through study and practice how to make something attractive to the eye. Our minds are
always trying to find a pattern, as we tend to look for symmetry and repetition of design. This will
assist in making a beautiful presentation. When served a plate, customers will look at a dish and think
immediately “this looks beautiful,” or they may have the opposite reaction. They may not be able to tell
you why it is attractive, just that it is nice to look at. The principles presented in this section will give
you the tools to apply presentation techniques to any plated dish.
41
10.
A checklist:
In the western world, we read from left to right. When a new image is presented to us, we tend to scan
it from the left side to the right side. You can use this knowledge to influence the placement of food on
the plate. If you have a bit of colour on the left side of the plate (sauce, fresh fruit, etc.), the eye will be
attracted to that. If you plan to have height on the right side of the plate (garnish, ramekin, etc.), it will
draw the eye across the plate (Figure 6).
Figure 6.
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43 Dessert Presentation
Your eye should be able to flow across the components. There should be movement on the plate. An
upward curve of a tuile or chocolate garnish, a connection between two components with a caramel stick,
or the flow of coulis can help direct movement and create a focal point. All these items combined will
make a plate more appealing visually and attract the eye of the diner before the dessert is eaten.
The main component of the dessert does not always need to be centred, but can be placed slightly offset.
Generally, sauce, ice cream or sorbet, and the main garnishes should radiate from the main component
without a lot of separation. This allows the plate to have a balance of white space and not look too busy
or confusing. Keeping components away from the outside edge of the plate will also help balance the
presentation.
Figure 7a.
Design Principles for Plating Food 44
Figure 7b.
On the plate in Figure 7a, the two main components are pushed to the outside of the plate, causing the eye
to focus on the emptiness (or negative space) in the middle. On the plate in Figure 7b, the components
have been brought together, making a connection between all three items. This creates visual harmony.
45 Dessert Presentation
Figure 8a.
Figure 8b.
Figure 8a shows the correct design principles (colour on the left, and a garnish that is high on the right
side), which do cause the eye to move left to right, but the cake is pushed back almost to the very edge of
Design Principles for Plating Food 46
the plate. The sauce is all on the left side. The combination of the two uses only about half of the surface
area. This highlights the negative space on the plate.
In Figure 8b, the sauce is piped across the entire surface of the plate, and the cake is brought almost to
the centre, creating more balance.
Flow
Figure 9a.
Figure 9b.
47 Dessert Presentation
Figure 9a shows a dessert with a lot of sauce, done in similar shapes. The highest item is placed
incorrectly, in the bottom left corner.
In Figure 9b, the presentation is simplified. Movement is controlled, drawing the eye to the tallest
component. To help balance the plate, perhaps another component could have been added in the middle.
Think about what might make an appropriate addition.
Media Attributions
Finding inspiration and developing a great plated dessert is a chore in itself. But having to plan an entire
dessert menu, to strike a balance of items to be offered, to choose items that will be attractive to your
customers and promote good sales takes planning.
Establishments that have the most success with their dessert menu (and sales) tend to stick to the most
popular flavours. Innovation just for innovation’s sake is generally not a good idea. Non-traditional
ingredient pairings may work, for example, and chocolate always sells well—but if it is combined with
something like beets, it will turn most people off. There is a time and place for uncommon dessert
ingredients: special events, tasting menus, catering events. Desserts are a comfort food to most people,
and to have an approachable menu with popular flavours will lead to the highest customer satisfaction.
• Chocolate
• Citrus
• Coffee
• Custard or cheesecake
• Caramel
Chocolate
The chocolate dessert is probably the most popular one at any restaurant. Always have one dark
chocolate dessert. If you need a second chocolate dessert, go with one made with white chocolate, milk
chocolate, or some variation. Using a good-quality chocolate can turn a simple dessert into one with a
“wow factor.” Many consumers have an understanding of the differences in chocolates, so by using a
high-percentage, single-origin chocolate, the unique flavours can tell a “story” on the dessert menu.
Citrus
Many people who aren’t chocolate lovers tend to be fans of citrus. Citrus is very refreshing and can be
used in many different applications.
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49 Dessert Presentation
Coffee
Tiramisu is a modern classic made with coffee. An affogato is a super-easy dessert that combines two
popular items: coffee and dessert. This can be a great starting point for designing a dessert: take a popular
and enjoyable flavour combination, and add other elements to it.
Having a rich, creamy, custard-based dessert is always popular. Whether it is a classic cheesecake, a
crème brûlée, a flan, or a bread pudding, this style of dessert will always be popular.
Caramel
There are so many delicious treats you can make with this flavour—toffee pudding, caramel parfait,
caramel candies, caramel apples, caramel sundae, caramel ice cream served with crunchy toffee bits, and
a heaping spoonful of crème fraîche caramel sauce.
• Keep it small. There is nothing that better promotes customer satisfaction than to have them
wishing for a “little bit more” of a dessert. You don’t want to serve a dessert that is so big it
can’t be finished. This will have an effect on the customer (“I’ve had too much”), and is
wasteful. Food costs can be lowered if reasonable portion sizes are used. By serving smaller
amounts, greater yield can come from the recipes.
Designing a dessert
Where do you start in planning a new dessert? Once you have the main ingredient or flavour profile
figured out, there are many options:
Favourites
Take classic, popular desserts (hot soufflés, crème brûlée, lemon tarts, etc.) and prepare and present
them in a clean, straightforward manner. Remember that classics are classics for a reason. They are
great dishes, have wonderful contrasts, and are comforting. They can remind customers of times past
and conjure the great memories that accompany them. A dessert that is simple, but executed perfectly, is
very satisfying on many levels.
Ingredient driven
Say you have fresh, ripe, juicy peaches. By using the principles listed above about contrast between
flavour, texture, and temperature, you can design a peach dessert. For example, you might offer a slice
of sponge cake soaked with a vanilla syrup and topped with sliced peaches. Or you might present a
white wine sabayon pooled on top of the peaches and then flashed under a broiler, or use a hand torch to
caramelize the top, finished off with a drizzle of wildflower honey. Use the different textures from the
fruit and sponge cake, and the creamy sabayon, which is on the tart side, to balance the sweetness of the
fruit and honey. Warmth from the broiler will contrast the lower temperature of the other components.
Figure 10 shows an example of a dessert that features peaches and walnuts.
Seasonal
Use a fruit (or vegetable) and make it a “star” in the season it is harvested. For example, prepare apple
desserts to serve in the fall and winter, and local strawberries and ice cream in the summer.
51 Dessert Presentation
Figure 10.
Deconstruct a recipe
Take the main flavour profiles of a classic dessert or combination, and reinterpret them in an intriguing
fashion. For example, turn a black forest cake (Figure 11) into a plated dessert. The eponymous black
forest cake of chocolate layers, whipped cream, cherry centre, and cherry topping has been very popular
for over half a century, and it is a combination of flavours that everyone knows.
Prepare and Plan Dessert Menus 52
Figure 11.
First, take the key components of the black forest cake (chocolate, cherries, and whipped cream) and
come up with different ways to reimagine them in a modern context (Table 2).
Component Reimagined
Rich chocolate brownie, broken into pieces; chocolate “sand” made with tapioca
Chocolate cake
maltodextrin
Cherries soaked in
Candied cherries and cherry–kirsch sorbet
kirsch
Next, think about assembly. One option is to assemble the dessert with the brownie pieces placed on the
plate first, then the crème fraiche in the centre of that, garnished with candied cherries and finished with
a scoop of the cherry sorbet resting on the chocolate “sand.” The plate could be finished with some sauce
and garnishes (Figure 12). This “deconstruction” has all the flavours of a classic black forest cake, but is
presented in a novel format and designed with contrasts of flavour, textures, and temperatures in mind.
53 Dessert Presentation
Figure 12.
Now that you have an inspiration for a dessert, next comes the planning stage. This is where the design
principles mentioned above apply. An easy way to plan is to draw the dessert. Putting the idea on paper
can assist with placement of the components, the shapes, the scale of each component to the others, and
potential garnishes. To ensure the execution of all the components balances, be prepared to make the
dish over and over, tweaking the items each time. That will be the only way to ensure that you have
created a memorable dessert!
Media Attributions
Activities
Activities
◦ Fruit coulis
◦ Caramel sauce
◦ Crème anglaise
• Prepare a “deconstructed” version of a classic dessert.
54
Appendix: Standard recipes for dessert garnishes
Basic Tuiles
Ingredients
240 g sugar
180 g flour
2 g salt
90 g butter, melted
Method
Combine sugar, flour, and salt in mixer until well combined. Add egg whites and mix ingredients until
smooth. Spread thinly into desired shape or stencil, and bake in a moderate oven (170°C or 350°F) until
golden brown (10 to 15 minutes). Bend or shape while still warm.
Chocolate Tuiles
Ingredients
240 g sugar
120 g flour
60 g cocoa powder
2 g salt
90 g butter, melted
Method
55
Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 56
Ingredients
240 g sugar
120 g flour
60 g ground almonds
5 g cinnamon
2 g salt
90 g butter, melted
Method
Meringues
Ingredients
270 to 360 g sugar (Depending on how firm you want the meringue to be. More sugar creates harder
meringues)
Method
French or traditional meringues: Beat egg whites and cream of tartar until foamy. Gradually add sugar
while beating, then whip to stiff peaks. Pipe into desired shapes and bake in a very low oven (80°C to
95°C or 175°F to 200°F) for 12 to 24 hours, until dry and firm.
Swiss meringue: Add all ingredients to a stainless bowl and beat over a bain marie until thick, glossy and
in stiff peaks. Pipe into desired shapes and bake in a very low oven (80°C to 95°C or 175°F to 200°F)
for 12 to 24 hours, until dry and firm.
Nut brittle
Ingredients
400 g glucose
500 g sugar
100 g butter
Method
Combine sugar and glucose with enough water to dissolve. When the mixture is a light caramel colour,
stir in almonds and butter. Roll immediately between two sheets of parchment paper to desired thickness.
Can be rewarmed in oven briefly in order to roll thinner.
Key Terms
agar agar
A natural vegetable gelatin counterpart derived from red algae.
à la minute
Items prepared to order.
albumen
The white portion of the egg. It consists primarily of proteins and water.
arrowroot
A starch derived from the root of tropical plants; used to produce clear, thickened sauces that will
not go cloudy.
bloom
A whitish coating that can appear on the surface of chocolate. There are two types of bloom: fat
bloom, arising from changes in the fat in the chocolate; and sugar bloom, formed by the action of
moisture on the sugar ingredients.
blown sugar
Garnish made by taking caramelized sugar and pumping air into it to form round shapes or balls
like glass.
caramelization
Process that occurs when sugar reaches a certain temperature and starts to brown, at
approximately 170°C (340°F).
coagulation
Process where a protein changes from a fluid into a thickened mass.
compote
Cooked fruit served in its own cooking liquid.
cornstarch
Starch derived from corn; used as a thickening agent in liquid-based foods. It is mixed in with a
cold liquid to form a paste or a slurry and then added to simmering liquids to thicken.
coulis
A fruit purée, used as a sauce.
crystallization
The process of formation of solid crystals precipitating from a solution.
crème anglaise
Thin vanilla custard used as a sauce or base for frozen desserts.
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59 The BC Cook Articulation Committee
crème chantilly
Whipped cream with sugar and vanilla.
curd
Thickened custard made from egg yolks, sugar, and a liquid, usually lemon juice.
focal point
Visual accents on a plate, buffet, or platter.
fruit butter
Sauce made from cooked fruit that has been puréed and cooked until thick.
garnish
Decorative element on a food item or platter.
gelatin
A gelling agent derived from collagen obtained from various animal by-products.
gelatinization
A process that breaks down the bonds of starch molecules in the presence of water and heat,
allowing the starch to thicken the mixture
gluten
A protein composite present in cereal grains, especially wheat, but also found in barley, oats, and
rye. Composed mainly of two proteins, gliadin and glutenin. Gluten contributes to elasticity and
texture in bread doughs and other products containing wheat.
hydrocolloid
A substance that forms a gel in contact with water.
lecithin
Naturally occurring substance in animal and plant tissues (most notably egg yolks and soybeans)
that is an excellent emulsifier.
modified starch
A starch that has been physically, enzymatically, or chemically treated for use in food products as
a thickening agent, stabilizer, or emulsifier.
modified starches
also called starch derivatives, are prepared by physically, enzymatically, or chemically treating
native starch to change its properties.
molecular gastronomy
The study or use of scientific principles in food preparation.
negative space
The empty space between items on a plate or buffet that is used to make the presentation more
appealing.
Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 60
plated dessert
A dessert that is assembled from several components.
pre-gelatinized starches
Starches that have been cooked and then dried, making them soluble in cold water.
pulled sugar
Garnish made by shaping caramelized sugar by hand by pulling it into long ribbons or other
shapes.
Rennet
derived from the stomach linings of cattle, sheep, and goats, is used to coagulate, or thicken, milk
during the cheese-making process
sabayon
A thick, frothy sauce, either sweet or savoury, made by whisking egg yolks and liquid over low
heat.
sous-vide
Process of cooking food in vacuum-sealed packaging at consistent, low temperatures.
spherification
Process of creating spheres of liquid with a firm surface that will hold.
spun sugar
Garnish made by drizzling caramelized sugar from a fork or whisk into long, very fine threads.
tapioca
A starch extracted from cassava roots.
tempering
A) To add a hot liquid to egg yolks slowly so the yolks are not cooked too quickly.
B) To allow an item to soften slightly by coming to room temperature slowly.
C) A process used to heat and cool chocolate to create a crystal structure that will result in shiny
and crisp finished chocolate.
zabaglione
Italian for “sabayon.”
References
Boyle, T. (2012). Plating for Gold. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley and Sons.
Chef Steps (n.d.). Vacuum Compression of Plant Foods. Retrieved from http://www.chefsteps.com/
activities/vacuum-compression-of-plant-foods
eatocracy (2011). 5@5 – The five C’s of dessert. Retrieved from http://eatocracy.cnn.com/2011/07/07/
55-the-five-c%E2%80%99s-of-dessert/
French Pastry School (2014). Spherification. In The Modern Kitchen Professional. Retrieved from
http://www.frenchpastryschool.com/blog/modern-kitchen-professional
Gentile, D. (2014). The 11 untold secrets of menu design. Retrieved from http://www.thrillist.com/eat/
nation/restaurant-menu-secrets-menu-design
Gisslen, W. (2011). Professional Cooking for Canadian Chefs (7 ed.). Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley and
Sons.
Gisslen, W. (2012). Professional Baking (6th ed). Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley and Sons.
Mathis, T. (2014). Scraped Surface Heat Exchanger Technology in Crystallization. In Food Quality
and Safety. Retrieved from http://www.foodquality.com/details/article/6032941/
Getting_the_Most_From_a_Crystallization_Process.html?tzcheck=1&tzcheck=1
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Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 62
Migoya, F., The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) (2012). Elements of Dessert. Hoboken, NJ: John
Wiley and Sons.
Modernist Cooking Made Easy (n.d). Molecular Gastronomy Glossary. Retrieved from
http://www.modernistcookingmadeeasy.com/info/molecular-gastronomy-glossary
Modernist Cooking Made Easy (n.d.). Sous Vide Fruit. Retrieved from
http://www.modernistcookingmadeeasy.com/tags/fruit-recipes
National Science Foundation (n.d.). The Chemistry of Chocolate. Retrieved from http://science360.gov/
obj/video/27d931d9-c33c-45c6-adac-aa0a42f04ad6/chemistry-chocolate
This series of Open Textbooks has been developed collaboratively on behalf of the BC Provincial Cook
Articulation Committee and go2HR. The committee would like to thank the following individuals for
their contributions to developing, editing, and reviewing these texts:
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Modern Pastry and Plated Dessert Techniques 64
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66