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(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Carol Wiley - The Road Less Travelled - 1,000 Amazing Places Off The Tourist Trail. Foreword by Bill Bryson-DK Publishing (Dorling Kindersley) (2011) PDF
(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Carol Wiley - The Road Less Travelled - 1,000 Amazing Places Off The Tourist Trail. Foreword by Bill Bryson-DK Publishing (Dorling Kindersley) (2011) PDF
Travelled
The Road Less
Travelled
1,000 amazing places off the tourist trail
foreword by bill bryson
LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE, Contents
MUNICH AND DELHI
Christine Stroyan
LIST MANAGER Foreword 7
Sadie Smith
SENIOR EDITOR
PROJECT EDITOR Alexandra Whittleton
EDITORS Fay Franklin, Michael Fullalove,
Ancient and Historical Sights 8
Justine Montgomery, Ros Walford Pyramids of Meroe, Sudan
DESIGN MANAGER Sunita Gahir vs Pyramids of Giza, Egypt ............................................. 10
DESIGNERS Nicola Erdpresser, Paul Jackson
DTP DESIGNER Jason Little
Avebury, UK vs Stonehenge, UK................................. 14 Great Journeys 80
Ellen Root
PICTURE RESEARCHER Agrigento and Selinunte, Sicily, Italy The Apolobamba Trek, Bolivia
CARTOGRAPHERS Stuart James, Casper Morris vs The Acropolis, Athens, Greece ................................ 18 vs The Inca Trail, Peru ........................................................ 82
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Liz Cherry
Pula Arena, Croatia Coastal Route 15, Mexico
vs The Colosseum, Rome, Italy ..................................... 20 vs Route 66, USA ................................................................. 86
PUBLISHER Douglas Amrine
Herculaneum, Italy vs Pompeii, Italy ......................... 24 Annapurna, Nepal
QUADRUM SOLUTIONS PVT. LTD
vs Everest Base Camp, Nepal ........................................... 90
www.quadrumltd.com Lalibela, Ethiopia vs Petra, Jordan .............................. 28
The Palace on Wheels, Rajasthan, India
First Published in Great Britain in 2009 Isla del Sol, Bolivia vs Machu Picchu, Peru ............. 32 vs The Orient Express ......................................................... 92
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Borobudur, Java vs Angkor, Cambodia ..................... 36 Pilgrimage to Rome, Italy
vs Camino de Santiago, Spain ......................................... 96
This edition published in 2011 Tikal, Guatemala
vs Chichén Itzá, Mexico ................................................... 40 Cruising Lake Nasser, Egypt
COPYRIGHT © 2009 vs Cruising the Nile, Egypt ............................................. 100
DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED, LONDON Krak des Chevaliers, Syria
A PENGUIN COMPANY vs The Tower of London, UK ........................................ 42 Less-Travelled China .......................................................... 102
Foreword copyright © Bill Bryson 2009 44 More Amazing Ancient and Historical Sights .... 44 Less-Travelled India ............................................................ 106
FORGET THE
PYRAMIDS OF GIZA?
Pyramids of
THE BUILD-UP The Pyramids of Giza have a
good claim to be the world’s oldest tourist sight,
having had a constant stream of visitors ever since
Meroe
the Greek historian Herodotus wrote about
them in the 5th century BC. The awe-inspiring
pyramids remain among the largest man-made
structures in existence: the Great Pyramid of
Giza stands at 145 m (476 ft) high and has a
base area of 52,900 sq m (63,270 sq yards).
NEED TO KNOW Roman control, it continued to influence the GOING ANYWAY? The Egyptian authorities
cultural life of the Kushite Kingdom. The pyramids plan improved fencing around the pyramids to
LOCATION Meroe is 230 km
(143 miles) north of Khartoum
&(:15 of Meroe are all that remain of a once-magnificent reduce the hassle from touts. In the meantime,
DATE OF 1PSU4VEBO Kushite city, and bear witness to an empire once visiting as early in the morning as possible gets
CONSTRUCTION $)"% 1:3".*%4 3FE powerful enough to hold its own against Rome. you away from the big groups, as will riding in
0'.&30& 4FB
260 BC to AD 350
&3*53&" Not all of the pyramids at Meroe are intact. In by horse from the desert side of the site.
,IBSUPVN
PYRAMID HEIGHT
Up to 30 m (98 ft)
fact, many look as if they have been bitten off at
46%"/ the top, one after the other, like a row of quickly
DAYTIME
&5)*01*"
TEMPERATURES Jan:
$&/53"-
sampled Easter eggs. This vandalism was the work
32°C (90F°); Apr: 41°C (106°F); "'3*$"/
Great Pyramid
of Cholula
NEED TO KNOW
The Step Pyramid of Zoser in the evening sun, Saqqara, Egypt
LOCATION Cholula is
in Puebla state, Mexico
DATE OF
CONSTRUCTION
64"
Pyramids of
200 BC to AD 800
PYRAMID HEIGHT
.POUFSSFZ
.&9*$0
(VMGPG
.FYJDP Saqqara & of smaller mastaba (mudbrick) tombs that provided
an early model for the pyramids. Dominating the
66 m (217 ft)
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES
.FYJDP$JUZ
$)0-6-"
Dahshur site is the Step Pyramid of Zoser – the first
Egyptian pyramid and the tomb of Pharaoh
Jan: 19°C (66°F); Apr: 25°C (77°F); 1BDJmD
Jul: 23°C (73°F); Oct: 21°C (70°F) 0DFBO NEED TO KNOW Zoser. The royal sarcophagus was sunk into the
bedrock of the desert, then surrounded by a
LOCATION The pyramids .FEJUFSSBOFBO
are south of Cairo in Egypt 4FB granite platform that was gradually expanded into
Cholula’s pyramid is so enormous and overgrown DATE OF
"MFYBOESJB a four- and then six-step pyramid according to
$BJSP
that first-time visitors regularly mistake it for a hill. CONSTRUCTION 4"22"3" very precise calculations. The pharaoh’s engineer,
2667–2575 BC %")4)63 4"6%*
Although it is not as high as the Great Pyramid of "3"#*" Imhotep, oversaw the design and construction of
PYRAMID HEIGHT &(:15
Giza, it is actually larger, measuring a staggering Step: 62 m (203 ft); Red: 101 m 3FE
this pyramid so well that he was later raised into
-VYPS 4FB
160,000 sq m (191,360 sq yards) at the base. Built (331 ft); Bent: 105 m (344 ft) the pantheon of the gods – an honour only
"TXBO
over a period of 1,000 years, the monument is DAYTIME TEMPERATURES bestowed on a handful of people in ancient Egypt.
made up of several pyramids built one over the Jan: 18°C (64°F); Apr: 28°C (82°F); Although smaller pyramids surround Zoser’s
Jul: 36°C (97°F); Oct: 30°C (86°F) 46%"/
other like Russian dolls. The giant structure was resting place, the tomb of Imhotep – the world’s
once topped with a temple dedicated to the first-named architect – has never been found.
Aztec god Quetzalcoatl, but this was later replaced The pyramids at Giza didn’t arrive fully formed The pharaohs of the Sixth Dynasty chose
with a church built by the conquistadors. Visitors – it took the ancient Egyptians around 400 years Dahshur, to the south of Saqqara, as the site for their
can relive Indiana Jones fantasies by exploring to perfect their building art. Evidence of this cemetery. Leading the way was the ruler, Snefru,
some of the 8 km (5 miles) of tunnels that burrow architectural experimentation lies a short drive who ordered the building of Dahshur’s two most
into the heart of the massive structure. south of Giza at the older sites of Saqqara and iconic pyramids, the Red Pyramid and the Bent
Dahshur, where several pyramids, including one Pyramid, and kick-started the golden age of
Practical Information stepped, one bent and one red, form the Egyptian pyramids in the process. The Red Pyramid,
Getting There Cholula is on the outskirts of Puebla, the capital city of necropolis for the old royal city of Memphis. named after the colour of its limestone blocks, is
Puebla state, and is 3 hours southeast of Mexico City by road. The idea of using pyramids as mausoleums thought to be the first true pyramid, with sloping
When to Go Any time of year is pleasant, although July to September arose during the Third Dynasty of ancient Egypt, slides rather than steps and descending passages
is a particularly rainy period. and the funerary complex at Saqqara contains through the blockwork to a series of tomb
Website www.mexonline.com/cholula-pyramid.htm five of the original structures, along with a cluster chambers. The construction techniques obviously
13
Temple Pyramid of
NEED TO KNOW Cestius
LOCATION The temple is
in Thanjavur, in the Indian NEED TO KNOW
1",*45"/
state of Tamil Nadu %FMIJ /&1"-
FORGET
STONEHENGE?
THE BUILD-UP Stonehenge is famous, its stones
astonishingly huge and its setting dramatic. The
summer solstice ceremony held by druids and
New Agers confirms it as a cathedral to mystical
paganism. Even when seen from the road in a
Avebury
car, it is a magnificent sight.
DAYTIME .BODIFTUFS concrete blocks showing how the circle and its
*3&-"/%
TEMPERATURES 6/*5&% outer and inner rings once stood. It is possible that
,*/(%0.
Jan: 7°C (45°F); Apr: 14°C some stones are still underground, and some
(57°F); Jul: 21°C (70°F); -POEPO
"7?: beneath the village which, over the centuries, has
Oct: 12°C (54°F)
unfortunately quarried the henge for building
materials. In fact, the entire modern history of
Crowning the skyline on treeless Salisbury Plain, Avebury is mixed up with the stones, and can be
the spectacle of Stonehenge reduces the passing explored in the local museum set up by the ABOVE Visitors at Stonehenge standing behind fencing,
admiring the ruins from a distance
traffic to a perpetual crawl. A line of coaches marmalade millionaire and amateur archaeologist
disgorge load after load of snap-happy visitors. In Alexander Keiller.
fact, it is so popular that the site has to be fenced The great attraction of Avebury, however, is
off for fear of damage, putting the magnificent that, like the resident sheep, you can wander freely
stones out of bounds. To really get hands-on with among the stones, touching them and seeing if
mysterious ancient stones, and to see the world some of their mystery will rub off on you. Nobody
from a 5,000-year-old perspective, try Avebury, really knows the purpose of the stones but, like PRACTICAL INFORMATION
located 33 km (20 miles) to the north. This mystic most great constructions of early civilizations,
circle of stones, or henge, was erected around the they must have been involved in a culture that Getting There and Around Where to Stay
same time and occupies what appears to be a combined religion with the heavens and afterlife. From London, Avebury is easily The pub also has four cottage-
This ritual centre was connected to another stone accessible by public transport. style rooms available, but
It is a 1-hour train ride from tales of the rooms being
circle, the Sanctuary, just over 2 km (1 mile) away at Paddington to Swindon. From inhabited by ghosts may be a
the end of the West Kennet Avenue, a path flanked there, bus no. 49 leaves every deterrent. The Castle and Ball
with stones. As big as Stonehenge, the Sanctuary hour for Avebury. However, (www.castleandball.com),
has no standing stones. Less than a mile away are if you hire a car, you can also located in nearby Marlborough,
the West Kennet Long Barrow burial chambers, so take in Stonehenge by driving is a good alternative, and also
via the M4. has a great restaurant.
it is possible that the avenue and the second circle
Where to Eat When to Go
had to do with journeys into the afterlife. Between
You can stop for a meal at the Visit any time from Easter to the
the henges, less than a mile to the west is Silbury 400-year-old thatched Red Lion, end of October, for a chance of
Hill, a 40-m- (130-ft-) high conical mound made at which is Avebury’s village pub. better weather.
about the same time as the henges, the purpose of The food is served from an Budget per Day for Two
which has not been fully ascertained. To the north extensive menu and includes £280 including car hire.
snacks, sandwiches and wraps,
lies Windmill Hill, which shows signs of a Neolithic Website
and jacket potatoes (tel. +44
settlement and was probably where Avebury’s 1672 539 266). www.avebury-web.co.uk
ABOVE The stone circle standing within the boundaries of a ditch architects and builders lived.
15
Stones of Ales Stenar, on a picturesque grassy headland looking out Ancient megalithic standing stones in a sea of verdant greenery
to sea, near Kåseberga
Sonnen- at Carnac
Agrigento and
Selinunte, Sicily ABOVE Tourists on the steps of the Propylaea, the
magnificent gateway to the Acropolis, Athens, Greece
FORGET ROME’S
COLOSSEUM?
THE BUILD-UP American composer Cole
Porter said it all when he said, “You’re the top!
You’re the Colosseum.” Tourists have been
enthusing about the Colosseum since the
18th-century Grand Tour of Europe, which the
English elite had popularized. Even as a partial
ruin, it can still take your breath away.
Pula Arena,
interior is too precious to host concerts. Your
visit will be even more memorable if you fall
victim to a pickpocket.
Rome’s Colosseum, an ancient circus of death and glory, is a symbol of the city, but
across the Adriatic Sea is an equally imposing and magnificent arena in Pula
DAYTIME
)&3;&(07*/" coast to the ancient Roman city of Aquileia. Today,
TEMPERATURES 4QMJU it sits in an idyllic location overlooking the harbour.
Jan: 6°C (43°F); Apr: 12°C "ESJBUJD Arena is the Latin word for sand, which covered
(54°F); Jul: 26°C (79°F); 4FB
Oct: 14°C (58°F) %VCSPWOJL the central area – it was useful for soaking up the
blood. Built at the same time as the Colosseum in
the 1st century AD, Pula’s Arena is the sixth largest PRACTICAL INFORMATION
It is generally acknowledged that the Colosseum of the 200 or so amphitheatres that the Romans
Getting There and Around playground to the south of the
is one of the greatest engineering feats of the erected in their centres of power. A particular
Pula has an international airport city. A short walk from the Arena
Romans – it was certainly the largest amphitheatre feature of this amphitheatre is the gutter running 6 km (4 miles) from the city is the small family-owned
they ever built. Standing inside, seeing the tunnels around the top of its walls that collected rainwater centre. The city is not large and Scaletta Hotel (tel. +385 52
where wild animals would be prodded into deadly in tanks in four still-standing towers. Perfume was buses are efficient means of 541 599; www.hotel-scaletta.
games, and climbing the precipitous tiers of the added to the water, which was then sprayed over transport. Taxis are available and com) with a good restaurant.
arena, it is easy to imagine an enormous crowd what must have sometimes been a less-than- inexpensive. There is a regular The Hotel Riviera is also close by
boat from Venice in summer. (tel. +385 52 211 166).
– shielded by awnings from the heat of the day – fragrant audience. Of a similar elliptical design to
Where to Eat When to Go
roaring with excitement and disapproval. the Colosseum, but one tier shorter and lacking its
For cutting-edge dishes in a Being a tourist centre, Pula is
Visiting the Arena in Pula will evoke much the heavy grandeur, Pula Arena has a much freer, more crowded in summer. Warm
beautiful setting, it’s hard to beat
same feeling, except that here the space is more friendlier appeal. Its original banks of seats have the award-winning Valsabbion, weather makes it pleasant
intimate. Chances are that you may well be among long since been removed – some taken to Venice part of a hotel and spa during Mar–Oct. Check in
a more orderly crowd here, listening to music or to build palazzi – but a newer semi-circle of seats (tel. +385 52 218 033; advance for details about the
watching opera or dance because, unlike the rises to grassy banks. As you wander around, the www.valsabbion.hr; closed Jan). events held in the Arena.
Colosseum, Croatia’s best-preserved classical audio-tour clamped to your ears, the centuries slip Near the Arena, the Pizzeria Budget per Day for Two
Jupiter (tel. +385 52 214 333) is £125 including a visit
monument remains a place of entertainment. As away and you’re transported back in time, but you
known for its pasta and pizza. to the Arena, food and
host to the annual Pula Film Festival that hands out only become fully aware that this was once an accommodation.
Where to Stay
the Golden Arena Awards, this amphitheatre has extremely violent place when you reach the dark
Most accommodation is on the Website
been described as the most beautiful cinema in cells beneath, where martyrs and animals were Verudela Peninsula, Pula’s www.istra.hr
the world. When music echoes around the confined until their final performance.
21
Leptis Magna, Grand-scale colonnades at the great amphitheatre in El Djem Trier, Germany
Libya
El Djem, Tunisia NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Trier is located /PSUI
NEED TO KNOW in the west German state of 4FB
LOCATION The
amphitheatre is 3 km .FEJUFSSBOFBO
Rhineland-Palatinate, near )BNCVSH
56/*4*" 4 FB LOCATION The the Luxembourg border #FSMJO
(1.6 miles) east of Leptis amphitheatre at El Djem is 5VOJT 10-"/%
Aerial view of Mérida’s Roman amphitheatre, with the theatre beyond Arena di Monument to the bull-fighting tradition at the Arènes de Nîmes
Practical Information
Practical Information Getting There Verona is linked by shuttle bus to its own airport (10 km/ Practical Information
Getting There Mérida lies on the N-V motorway between Madrid and 6 miles from the city centre) and Brescia airport (52 km/30 miles away). It Getting There Nîmes lies on France’s A4 motorway. Its own airport is only
Lisbon, and is served by regular trains and buses from Badajoz (1 hour), lies on the A4 Milan–Venice motorway and has direct train services to the served by UK budget airlines, but larger airports exist in Marseille and
Seville (3 hours) and Madrid (5–6 hours). The nearest international airport main northern Italian cities, including Venice (1.5 hours), Milan (2 hours) Montpellier. By rail, there are high-speed TGV links to Paris (3–4 hours),
is Badajoz, 45 km (28 miles) west, near the border with Portugal. and Rome (5 hours). Verona’s historic centre is easily explored on foot. and frequent services to Marseille (1 hour) and other cities in the region.
When to Go Spring (Apr–Jun) and autumn (Sep–Oct) are most pleasant. When to Go Between Easter and November. The annual Opera Festival When to Go The mild climate here makes it pleasant most of the year. Try
The Mérida Festival runs July–August, with concerts in the Roman ruins. takes place between June and August. to catch the Feria de Pentecôte, a 5-day event centred on the Arena in May.
Websites www.merida.es; www.festivaldemerida.es Website www.arena.it Website www.arenes-nimes.com
24
ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS
LOCATION Akrotiri is on #6-("3*" LOCATION Kourion lies near the port LOCATION This ancient city is 41"*/
Santorini in the Cyclades ."$&%0/*" of Limassol in southern Cyprus found near the town of Batna, in
"MHJFST
island group, Greece 5IFTTBMPOJLJ DATE OF northeastern Algeria
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION -BQJUIPT DATE OF 5*.("%
56/*4*"
.030$$0
CONSTRUCTION 12th century BC to CONSTRUCTION
(3&&$& "F4HF BO 'BNBHVTUB
20th–17th centuries BC FB 4th century AD /JDPTJB 1st–6th centuries AD
563,&: $:1364
DAYTIME 1BUSBT "UIFOT DAYTIME -BSOBDB DAYTIME "-(&3*" -*#:"
1ÈGPT
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES
-JNBTTPM
Jan: 12°C (54°F); Apr: 16°C Jan: 12°C (54°F); Apr: ,063*0/ Jan: 5°C (41°F); Apr: 12°C
",305*3*
(61°F); Jul: 25°C (77°F); 17°C (63°F); Jul: 27°C (54°F); Jul: 25°C (77°F);
.FEJUFSSBOFBO .FEJUFSSBOFBO4FB
Oct: 19°C (66°F) 4 FB (81°F); Oct: 21°C (69°F) Oct: 14°C (57°F) ."-*
/*(&3
The Bronze Age settlement of Akrotiri, once the Ancient Kourion, which is perched on a cliff Timgad was established in AD 100 by the Roman
largest Minoan city outside Crete, suffered a overlooking the Mediterranean, emerged as a Emperor Trajan, and for six centuries was one of
Pompeii-like end when it was buried in ash major Mycenaean settlement in around 1200 BC. North Africa’s most prosperous Roman
following the explosion of the volcanic island of The city remained a flourishing centre until settlements. But in 430 it was sacked by the
Thera (modern-day Santorini) around 1500 BC. the Middle Ages, when a massive earthquake Vandals – the same group that went on to plunder
This eruption was one of the most devastating in destroyed many of its buildings and drove Rome in 455 – and the town was abandoned and
recorded history, and is thought to have inspired away its inhabitants. Despite this catastrophe, gradually swallowed up by the encroaching
Plato’s legend of Atlantis, which told of an island a remarkable array of Hellenistic, Roman and Sahara. Now dug out of the sand and restored,
that vanished without trace. The ash preserved early-Christian monuments still stand here. Timgad presents the haunting sight of a Roman
much of Akrotiri in a near-perfect condition, and There’s a stunning theatre, which is still in use, town miraculously preserved in the middle of
today you’ll find three-storey houses replete with beautiful floor mosaics, a basilica, public baths nowhere. Sights include a 12-m (39-ft) high
pottery and furniture as well as a remarkable and an enormous amphitheatre, which boasts Trajan’s Arch, a 3,500-seat theatre and a large
array of frescoes. Most of these artifacts are now fantastic views. Nearby is a shrine to the Hellenistic Christian basilica, as well as a fine on-site museum.
in Athens, though excellent replicas are displayed deity Apollo dating from the 7th century BC.
at the Thíra Foundation in the island’s capital, Firá. Practical Information
Practical Information Getting There Fly to Batna, 40 km (25 miles) from Timgad, and hire a taxi
Practical Information Getting There There are plenty of international flights into Larnaca or arrange a tour with a local guide to reach the site.
Getting There International flights go in and out of Athens regularly. You airport, and from there you can drive or catch a bus to Limassol. When to Go This is one of the coolest parts of Algeria, although it’s still best
can then take a local flight or a ferry to Santorini. When to Go The island’s beautiful Mediterranean climate makes a to avoid the climatic extremes of winter and summer and stick to the more
When to Go May, June and September are pleasantly warm but not too visit possible at any time of year, although you might want to avoid temperate seasons of autumn and spring.
hot. Avoid the summer crowds and meltémi (winds) of July and August. the peak summer months (Jun–Aug), when temperatures are high, Website http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/194
accommodation is pricey and the city is at its most touristy.
Website www.santorini.net/123
Website www.limassolmunicipal.com.cy/kourion Mosaic depicting the Goddess Diana bathing, Timgad, Algeria
Ceramic vases found at the ancient site of Akrotiri, Santorini, Greece
The ruined city of Kourion, Cyprus, with a well-preserved mosaic floor
in the foreground
27
Palmyra, also known by its Arabic name of Tadmor, An extraordinary collection of uncannily well- In a beautifully windswept location on the west
is one of the oldest cities in the Middle East. It is preserved remains, most of which date from the coast of Orkney lies Skara Brae, Europe’s most
thought to date back to Babylonian times, but city’s early Roman period and have turned pink complete Neolithic village. The site comprises a
most of the surviving buildings date from the 1st with age, lie scattered across the desert here. The group of ten dwellings that were occupied from
to 3rd centuries, when the city was incorporated original city’s comprehensive outlines can still 3100 to 2500 BC and remained undiscovered
into the Roman Empire. Palmyra served as an clearly be seen, from the main street to the agora until 1850, when a violent storm tore away the
important meeting point between the Persian (marketplace). Highlights include the enormous, mound of grass and soil that had grown over
Empire to the east and the Greco-Roman world striking Temple of Ba’al (or Bel), the smaller them. The houses, which were originally sunk
to the west. Its fabled oasis, a symbol of fertility in Temple of Nebo and a beautifully restored into the ground and covered with turf, remain
a barren landscape, is thought to have inspired theatre, with its nine rows of seating. Bisecting excellently preserved, and even retain some of
the nickname “the Bride of the Desert”, and made the ancient city is the magnificent Great their original “furniture” – beds, shelves, boxes
Palmyra a popular stop on the caravan route Colonnade – the remains of what was once the and seats made out of stone slabs. The village
between Persia and the Mediterranean on the city’s principal street – which is lined with dozens even had its own elaborate drainage system,
old trans-Asian Silk Road. The city’s heyday lasted of columns standing in incongruous, antique complete with primitive stone toilets in every
until 273, when Queen Zenobia, who claimed to splendour amid the endless barren desert. dwelling, which can still be seen today.
be a descendant of Cleopatra and was famed for
her beauty, learning and courage, led a rebellion
Practical Information Practical Information
against the Romans. The city’s fortunes gradually
Getting There Fly to Damascus, and then hire a car or jump on the bus Getting There Fly from the Scottish mainland to Kirkwall or catch a
declined following this rebellion until, by the 6th from the airport to Palmyra. ferry to Stromness. The site is only a short trip from either of these towns
century, it was nothing more than a fortified When to Go Spring and autumn are the best times to visit – this way you by car, taxi or bicycle.
outpost at the edge of the Roman Empire. avoid the scorching extremes of summer and the chilly winter nights. When to Go May or September. The weather is likely to be just as good
Website www.syriagate.com/Syria/about/cities/Homs/palmyra.htm as in the summer, but with far fewer visitors around.
Majestic Palmyra, Syria, in the early morning sun Website www.orkneyjar.com/history/skarabrae
FORGET PETRA?
THE BUILD-UP Rising out of rose-red
sandstone in a hidden valley is the city of Petra,
Jordan’s top attraction. The impressive site was
built in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataeans,
Arab traders who created an empire based on
the control of the highly lucrative trade in
frankincense. The city comprises tombs, temples,
Lalibela
storerooms and stables cut out of the rock.
Rock Dwellings Lycian tombs in the cliffs above the Dalyan river, Turkey Gila Cliff
of Mesa Verde
Lycian Rock-Cut Dwellings
Tombs, Kaunos
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The rock dwellings
(and park headquarters) lie 48 km $"/"%" LOCATION The Gila cliff
(30 miles) from Cortez in NEED TO KNOW dwellings lie 71 km (44 miles) $"/"%"
southwest Colorado, USA north of Silver City in south-
DATE OF .&4"7&3%& /FX:PSL LOCATION At the ancient western New Mexico, USA
CONSTRUCTION /"5*0/"-1"3, site of Kaunos, beside the
8BTIJOHUPO%$
DATE OF /FX:PSL
13th century Dalyan river, on Turkey’s #MBDL4 FB 64"
-PT"OHFMFT CONSTRUCTION
DAYTIME 64" southwestern littoral 13th and 14th centuries -PT"OHFMFT 8BTIJOHUPO%$
*TUBOCVM
TEMPERATURES DATE OF DAYTIME (*-"/"5*0/"-
"OLBSB
Jan: -4°C (25°F); Apr: 7°C (45°F); (VMGPG CONSTRUCTION .0/6.&/5
.&9*$0 *[NJS 563,&: TEMPERATURES
Jul: 22°C (71°F); Oct: 10°C (50°F) .FYJDP 4th century BC Jan: 6°C (42°F); Apr: 14°C (58°F); (VMGPG
DAYTIME ,"6/04 "EBOB Jul: 26°C (78°F); Oct: 16°C (61°F) .&9*$0 .FYJDP
TEMPERATURES *3"2
4:3*"
Jan: 9°C (48°F); Apr: 16°C (61°F);
The well-preserved cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde Jul: 28°C (82°F); Oct: 21°C (70°F) .FEJUFSSBOFBO
4 FB
National Park provide a precious and fascinating In the heart of the Gila wilderness of New Mexico
insight into the life and times of the “lost civilization” is Gila National Monument, established in 1907 to
of the Ancient Puebloans (formerly known as the Ancient Kaunos was founded in the 9th century BC preserve dozens of ancient cliff dwellings. The
“Anasazi”), ancestors of modern-day Native by the Carians, who inhabited the Caria region of homes, which were built into caves in a narrow
American peoples in the southwest. The park and Anatolia. The city later formed part of the Kingdom canyon, shed some light on the mysterious
its natural cliff alcoves were inhabited from as of Lycia, which stretched between the bays of Mogollon people, whose distinct and important
early as AD 500, but it is thought that the 600 cliff Antalya and Fethiye in modern-day Turkey. Native-American culture was endemic to
homes here were not built until the 13th century. Famous for their form of government, which was southwestern New Mexico, western Texas,
Though these remarkable stone villages must the first example of democratic federalism in the southeastern Arizona and northern Mexico. More
have been a mighty building project for the world, the Lycians are today also known for the than 103 historic buildings are located here,
community, they were inhabited for less than 100 dozen or so distinctive and beautiful tombs they including an enormous dwelling with around 200
years. The people and rock dwellings of Mesa carved into the cliffs at Kaunos as part of their rooms. Other monolithic buildings to explore at
Verde remain shrouded in mystery. ancient tradition of ancestral worship. the site include rock shelters and pit houses.
Construction first began on the Longmen caves Set above the Pajarito Plateau amid mesas, canyons
in AD 495, under the Northern Wei Dynasty, and and chasms, Bandelier National Monument boasts
spanned four Chinese dynasties and over 400 years. a spectacular setting. The park comprises rock Ellora’s famous “caves”, which are actually a series
The site consists of over 1,300 grottoes and 400 dwellings, kivas (circular ceremonial structures), of temples and monasteries carved into the side
pagodas, and spreads for a kilometre (half-a-mile) rock paintings and carvings, and provides a rare of the Charanadari Hills, represent the apogee
on both sides of the Yi river. Inside the caves are glimpse into the lives of the Ancient Puebloan of Indian rock-cut architecture. They are unique
nearly 100,000 Buddhist statues of all shapes, people of the southwest. Though the Puebloans for their large size, architectural mastery, and
styles and sizes. The smallest of these measures mysteriously abandoned the site – probably due above all, for representing, side by side, three of
less than an inch and the largest, carved for the to changing climatic conditions – the ruins are India’s major religions: Hinduism, Buddhism and
Empress Wu Zetian of the Tang Dynasty, is nearly very well preserved and many of them have been Jainism. Sited on an ancient trade route, the 34
18 m (60 ft) high. The caves are considered an icon fully excavated. A well-signed, 1.6-km (1-mile) monuments saw merchants, priests and pilgrims
of Buddhist art, and one of the greatest religious, circular trail leads visitors past cliff houses, cave refresh themselves both physically and spiritually
historical and cultural masterpieces of China. dwellings and communal stone structures. on their way to the ports of India’s western littoral.
NEED TO KNOW see why. Situated at nearly 3,200 m (10,500 ft) commemorates their birthplace. The mysterious
above sea level, the lake is so clear it is said that the Chinkana labyrinth, possibly a training ground for
LOCATION Isla del Sol is located
on Lake Titicaca, which lies on
original inhabitants believed that they could see Inca priests, is also nearby. Three sacred springs on
the border of Bolivia and the entrance to another world at the bottom. Small the south coast still issue the same fresh water the
1&36
Peru in South America #0-*7*" #3";*- wonder most travellers don’t make it to the island earliest Inca used in their ceremonies, and are now
VISITORS PER *4-"%&-40-
-BLF when the scenery around is this beautiful. regarded by the locals as youth-restoring founts.
YEAR Fewer than 8,000 5JUJDBDB
-B1B[
DAYTIME 4BOUB$SV[ The tiny island itself is littered with remnants Exactly 206 steps from this triad of waters, the
TEMPERATURES 4VDSF of the Inca. Nearly 200 ruins, most in pristine island’s largest town, Yumani, descends directly
Jan: 16°C (61°F); Apr: 12°C condition, attest to the presence of this mighty into the lake. In the distance sits Pilcocaina, a stone
(54°F); Jul: 11°C (52°F); 1"3"(6":
Stone steps leading into the heart of the jungle at Ciudad Perdida in
Colombia’s Sierra Nevada
Ciudad Perdida A cluster of visitors standing before the architectural ruins of a temple
at Tiwanaku, Bolivia
NEED TO KNOW
Borobudur
vs Angkor ABOVE Tourists climbing the stairs to the upper level
of Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Escape the crowded temples of Angkor and head to the equally spectacular, but far less
touristy, Borobudur – one of the true wonders of the ancient Buddhist world FORGET ANGKOR?
THE BUILD-UP Angkor boasts some of the
diminishing levels and along endless corridors most jaw-dropping Buddhist monuments in
NEED TO KNOW
Southeast Asia. The dozens of spectacular
embellished with wonderfully detailed scenes
LOCATION Borobudur is temples here are crowned by the peerless
from Buddhist legend and cosmology. This
near Yogyakarta, on the Angkor Wat – the site’s largest monument –
island of Java, Indonesia 1)*-*11*/&4 upward journey, which leads you through three in a memorably atmospheric setting among
DATE OF . " - ": 4 * " 1BDJmD areas of Buddhist cosmology, mirrors the Buddhist gnarled jungles and glass-like paddy fields.
CONSTRUCTION .FEBO 0DFBO
4BNBSJOEB
journey towards enlightenment. You’ll pass
9th century AD
DAYTIME */%0/&4*"
+BZBQVSB through Kamadhat, “the world of desire”, where THE LETDOWN Unfortunately, there’s no
+BLBSUB #030#6%63
TEMPERATURES vivid carvings depicting human greed and passion escaping the crowds here. The days when
&"455*.03
Jan: 26°C (79°F); Apr: 28°C line the walls. Next comes Rupadhatu, “the world of Angkor was a remote and challenging
(82°F); Jul: 27°C (81°F); *OEJBO
Oct: 27°C (81°F) 0DFBO
"6453"-*"
forms”, which is decorated with scenes from the destination are sadly long gone. The temples
Buddha’s life. And on the monument’s sparsely are now firmly on the international sightseeing
decorated circular terraces, you’ll find Arupadhatu, circuit, making it hard to appreciate their majestic
architecture and profound religious significance
In the second half of the 20th century, the majestic “the world of formlessness”. As you emerge on
in anything approaching peace and quiet.
Buddhist temples at Angkor in Cambodia formed Borobudur’s uppermost level, which boasts 72
one of Asia’s most legendary – and most inaccessible Buddha statues each encased in a miniature GOING ANYWAY? Sunrise and sunset are the
– attractions. No longer. Angkor has established stupa, an unforgettable view across the tranquil most magical hours at Angkor: not only do the
itself firmly in the mainstream of international rural heartlands of central Java and out towards monuments look their best at these times, but
tourism and draws hundreds of thousands of visitors a distant ring of hazy volcanoes will open up also the crowds are at their thinnest. Don’t try
every year. Those in search of unspoilt Buddhist before your eyes. This is every bit as unforgettable to rush your trip here – the temples cover a vast
monuments must now look elsewhere: to Burma, a setting as Angkor’s verdant jungles. area, so set aside three days or so for exploring
Sri Lanka or, for the greatest rewards, to the the site. Make sure you visit some of the
impressive stupa of Borobudur in central Java. less-touristed outlying temples too.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Borobudur was built in the form of a gigantic
mandala – an architectural representation of the Getting There and Around Where to Stay
There are a limited number of The romantic Dusun Jogja Village
cosmos – and is one of the most spectacular
direct international flights to Inn (www.jvidusun.co.id) bills
religious monuments in Asia. It was modelled on Yogyakarta airport, so it’s likely itself as Yogyakarta’s first
Mount Meru, a legendary mountain in Buddhist, you’ll have to fly into the city on boutique hotel. Despite its
Jain and Hindu mythology, which is thought to be a domestic service from the central location, the hotel has a
the centre of both the physical and spiritual Indonesian capital, Jakarta, or pleasantly rustic atmosphere
Denpasar on Bali. Borobudur is and boasts accommodation in
universes. The building’s statistics alone are Javanese-style cottages. It also
about 40 km (25 miles) from
staggering. An estimated 56,630 cubic metres Yogyakarta, from where you can has a large pool in palm-filled
(2 million cubic feet) of stone were used to build hire a car, join a tour or catch a grounds.
the ancient structure, which comprises nine levels local bus to the ancient site. When to Go
holding 504 Buddha statues and with 2,672 bas- Where to Eat Temperatures in Java are fairly
Yogyakarta is one of the best constant all year round, though
relief carvings. Unsurprisingly, Borobudur is often
places in the country to eat travel is generally more pleasant
claimed to be the world’s largest stupa and the during the dry season, which is
top-notch Indonesian cuisine.
biggest ancient monument in the southern Try the popular Omah Dhuwur from May to September.
hemisphere – only the great stupas of Sri Lanka, restaurant (tel +62 274 374 Budget per Day for Two
built at around the same time, come close. 952), which is a little way out £50 a day will give you a
For Buddhist pilgrims and non-Buddhist of town, but worth the trek for decent hotel and private car
its excellent array of local dishes hire with driver to the site.
tourists alike, a visit here remains a powerfully
and other international and Website
uplifting experience. As you climb to the top of the Asian-fusion offerings. www.borobudurpark.com
monument, you’ll pass through successively
37
Ayutthaya Anuradhapura
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The ancient city LOCATION Nara lies 35 km (22 miles) LOCATION Near the city of
of Hampi lies near Hospet in 1",*45"/
south of Kyoto and 30 km (19 miles) east Luang Prabang, Laos 7*&5/".
/&1"- 3644*"
the Indian state of Karnataka %FMIJ of Osaka, in Japan’s Kansai region DATE OF
4BQQPSP 1",06$"7&4
DATE OF */%*"
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION -VBOH
,PMLBUB
CONSTRUCTION CONSTRUCTION The caves have housed the 1SBCBOH
4 F B P G + B Q B O -"04
14th–16th centuries .VNCBJ
7th–8th centuries &BTU4 FB
statues for around 600 years
#BZPG 7JFOUJBOF
DAYTIME "SBCJBO #FOHBM DAYTIME 4065) +"1"/ DAYTIME
4FB
)".1*
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES ,03&" TEMPERATURES
5PLZP 5)" * - " / %
Jan: 21°C (70°F); Apr: 28°C #BOHBMPSF Jan: 3°C (38°F); Apr: 13°C )JSPTIJNB
Jan: 19°C (66°F); Apr: 27°C
/"3" 1BLYÏ
(82°F); Jul: 24°C (75°F); (56°F); Jul: 25°C (78°F); 1B D J m D
(81°F); Jul: 27°C (81°F);
Oct: 24°C (75°F) 43*-"/," Oct: 16°C (61°F) 0 DF B O Oct: 25°C (77°F)
$ " .#0%*"
The great ruined city of Vijayanagar, more The capital of Japan from AD 710 to 794, when Honeycombing the limestone cliffs above the
commonly known as Hampi, is all that survives of it was succeeded by Kyoto, the small city of Nara confluence of the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers,
the capital of what was once the most powerful is located at the very centre of the country and is the atmospheric caves of Pak Ou are one of
kingdom in central India, the Vijayanagara Empire. regarded as the birthplace of Japanese culture. Southeast Asia’s more unusual historic sights.
The city was largely destroyed in a siege in 1565, It was during Nara’s era of prosperity in the 7th The caves have been used for centuries as
and today its ruins lie scattered over more than and 8th centuries that Buddhism became firmly storehouses for damaged or outdated Buddha
20 km (12 miles) of countryside. The monuments established in Japan, prompting the construction statues that have outlasted their practical use and
range from the intricately carved Achyutharaya, of a number of superb temples that survive to can no longer be venerated in a working temple.
Vitthala and Virupaksha temples to the former this day. Pre-eminent among these shrines is Around 4,000 such statues now jostle for elbow
royal quarters, complete with its famous set of Tōdai-ji, with its spectacular, revered 15-m- (49-ft-) room in Pak Ou’s two main caves, combining
elephant stables – a lavish stone palace fit for a high bronze Buddha statue, and Hōryū-ji, which is spooky tourist appeal with an enduring religious
prince, let alone elephants. Surrounding the city the country’s oldest Buddhist temple. Hōryū-ji pull that continues to draw Buddhist pilgrims
is a surreal, beautiful landscape bisected by the also boasts a fascinating collection of religious from across Laos and further afield.
meandering Tungabhadra river and studded with statues and ancient artifacts, as well as the world’s
rocky hills and gigantic boulders said to have been oldest surviving wooden building. Practical Information
tossed down by the armies of the Hindu god Getting There The caves are 25 km (15 miles) north of Luang Prabang. The
Hanuman in a superhuman show of strength. Practical Information best way to get to the Pak Ou Caves is on an hour-long boat trip from
Getting There Fly into the international airport at either Kyoto or Osaka,
Luang Prabang, although they are also accessible by road.
Practical Information from which points you can take a train, car or bus to Nara. When to Go Aim to visit in the cool months, from November to March.
Getting There The nearest major airport is at Bangalore, which receives When to Go Visit during the pleasantly temperate spring and autumn Website www.laostravel.info/Cave/index.htm
both domestic and international flights. From here, there are regular trains months (Mar–May and Sep–Oct), in order to avoid the tropical heat of
to the city of Hospet, which is close to the ancient site. summer and the freezing temperatures of winter. Buddha statues assembled in the Pak Ou Caves, Laos
When to Go The best time to visit is in the dry season (Oct–Mar). Website www.pref.nara.jp/english
Website www.karnataka.com/tourism/hampi
Statue guarding the temple of Tōdai-ji, Nara, Japan
Stone chariot at Vitthala Temple, Hampi, India
40
ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS
Tikal
vs Chichén Itzá ABOVE Tourists crowding around El Castillo, the largest
pyramid at Chichén Itzá, Mexico
If you like your Mayan sites tame and manageable, Mexico’s Chichén Itzá fits the bill,
but if you prefer your ruins living, breathing and vertigo-inducing, it has to be Tikal FORGET
CHICHÉN ITZÁ?
gazing across the Plaza Mayor at the temple tops THE BUILD-UP Iconic Chichén Itzá was
NEED TO KNOW
crowned one of the New Seven Wonders of
rising above the rainforest canopy.
LOCATION Tikal National the World in 2007 (Tikal didn’t even make
Much of Tikal remains unexcavated, unlike
Park is northeast of Flores 5*,"- the final) and is undoubtedly one of the
in the Petén region of Chichén Itzá, which was fully cleared in the 1930s essential Mayan must-sees. The main temple of
'MPSFT #&-*;&
northern Guatemala and is all there, catalogued and on a plate. Tikal
.&9*$0 Kukulkán is particularly spectacular at the
VISITORS PER
leaves much more to the imagination – its ancient Equinox ceremonies of light and shadow.
YEAR Around 215,000
DAYTIME
( 6 "5 & . " - " ruins are always keeping something back, whether
TEMPERATURES (VBUFNBMB )0/%63"4 shrouded in dawn mist or covered in tropical foliage. THE LETDOWN Chichén Itzá is just too
Jan: 28°C (82°F); Apr: 31°C $JUZ
And when you’ve found yourself a spot in which to accessible from Cancún to maintain any sort
(88°F); Jul: 30°C (86°F);
Oct: 29°C (84°F)
&-4"-7"%03
sit and take it all in, Tikal allows you to believe that if of mystery. The site is on the receiving end of a
1BDJmD0DFBO
you closed your eyes and drifted into a daydream, long line of coaches morning and evening, so
you might open them again to find yourself in the don’t expect a “real deal” experience – even
climbing the pyramids is now forbidden.
If Tikal were a volcano, it would be on perpetual midst of a Mayan ceremony; an ancient ball game,
amber alert. You tell yourself that nothing’s going perhaps, or a shamanic ritual. It’s almost as though
GOING ANYWAY? Make sure you stay
to happen while you’re there, but then again, once the Maya had downed tools and left this, their overnight at one of the nearby hotels and arrive
in situ suddenly you aren’t so sure. Perhaps it’s the largest city, hours before your arrival. at the site at first light or in the late afternoon
incessant chattering, rustling wildlife or the feeling While Chichén Itzá provides the stage for Plácido to beat the coachloads of tourists. As well as
that the on-site archaeologists are on the verge of Domingo concerts, Tikal has played host since the being crowded, it will be seriously hot around
unearthing something spectacular, but this ancient 1990s to sacred rituals and traditional festivals. midday, so visiting at this time is best avoided.
site has the air of a place about to rumble into During modern Mayan ceremonies, such as the anti-
action at any moment. Whereas better-known Columbus Day gathering in October, huge fires are
Chichén Itzá can feel a little like a historical theme lit in Plaza Mayor, and the spirits are recalled to this
park, Tikal’s winding jungle pathways and remote once-powerful citadel, which to this day, although
location combine with its sheer scale to devastating ruined, is a very long way from being spoilt.
hairs-on-the-back-of-your-neck effect.
At one time the epicentre of the Mayan PRACTICAL INFORMATION
civilization, the city of Tikal dominated Mesoamerica
in the 6th century AD, during the region’s late Classic Getting There and Around from where it’s a 20-minute boat
period. The most impressive of Tikal’s structures are Visiting Tikal entails a 7-hour bus trip across Lake Petén Itzá to the
journey or a 45-minute flight from four-cabin Ni’tun Lodge (www.
its six huge step pyramids, known as Temples I–VI, nitun.com), a charming,
Guatemala City to Flores, which
some of which tower over 61 m (200 ft) above the is in the steamy Petén area of peaceful eco-retreat.
humble tourist. Yet the majesty of Tikal is apparent northern Guatemala. Tikal is an When to Go
wherever you are, whether you’re craning your hour’s road journey from Flores. Visit between December and
neck upwards, peering giddily downwards, or Where to Eat February, when mornings and
There is plenty of choice in Flores nights are cool. Avoid Easter
itself, where the cuisine tends to and Christmas, which can get
be international and more Tex- busy, and May to September, the
Mex than gourmet. Café Yaxha peak time for rain and
(www.cafeyaxha.com) has a mosquitoes.
decent menu as well as books Budget per Day for Two
and photos on Mayan culture. £150 including accommodation
Where to Stay at Ni’tun Lodge, food and travel
There are three hotels at Tikal to and from Flores. Prices for
itself, all of which are pricey and Tikal tours vary considerably and
often booked out by groups. are best booked locally.
Avoid these and head to the Website
picturesque island city of Flores, www.visitguatemala.com
ABOVE Temple I and the Plaza Mayor, Tikal
41
Krak des Chevaliers most iconic images, from its resident ravens and
famous “Beefeater” guards to the Crown Jewels.
Oct: 27°C (81°F) Mediterranean coast and the Syrian interior, as well
+03%"/
as the north-south passage between Damascus
and Aleppo – lending it a strategic importance
“It is the Camelot of your dreams – the castle of that remains as clear today as it did 900 years ago,
every fairy tale.” So said the 20th-century British unlike the Tower of London’s once-imposing
travel writer H V Morton of the mighty Krak des Thames-side location.
Chevaliers, which sits majestically high above the The name Krak des Chevaliers, a mixture of
rolling plains of western Syria. This monumental Arabic and French, means “Fortress of the Knights”.
castle, built by Crusaders in the 12th century, has In 1144, the local Crusader lord, Raymond II, Count ABOVE The Tower of London surrounded by the high-rise
office blocks of the city’s financial district, UK
often been likened to a ship, its prow nosing out of Tripoli, handed control of what was then a small,
high above a fertile expanse of vineyards, olive simple fortress to the Knights Hospitallers – a
groves, farms and villages. Think of a medieval religious order that took on military duties in the
castle in Europe and you might picture a showpiece Crusader realms (as did its contemporary, the
fortress, carefully preserved and protected, with Knights Templar). The knights expanded the castle
pristine stonework and neatly mowed lawns. And if and added a 3-m (9-ft) thick encircling outer wall
that fortress is at the heart of a city – as the once- studded with towers to create a virtually PRACTICAL INFORMATION
prominent Tower of London is – it is likely to be impregnable ring of defences, making it the Holy
dwarfed by glass-and-steel office blocks. The cities Land’s largest and most sophisticated stronghold. Getting There and Around attractive, Oriental-style guest
these strongholds once dominated have now Today, you cross the moat and climb a dark, The nearest international airport rooms have a touch of class,
to Krak des Chevaliers is at and many have balconies with
overpowered them. Yet in Syria, Krak des Chevaliers twisting passage through to the inner courtyard, Damascus, the Syrian capital, fabulous views of the castle
retains its rough-edged authenticity. Here, little which contains a beautiful Gothic cloister and grand from where buses and trains run silhouetted against the sky.
hall, complete with its original vaulting. Explore the north to the city of Homs. From
When to Go
Crusader kitchens and storerooms, the austere here, “microbuses” (vans) run
The best seasons to visit Syria are
12th-century chapel, the ramparts and the Grand frequently to the castle.
spring (Mar–May) and autumn
Master’s apartments in the highest tower, which Where to Eat (Sep–Nov), when you’ll find the
have elegant Gothic windows offering commanding The popular Al-Kalaa restaurant surrounding hills carpeted with
(tel. +963 31 740 493) stands wild flowers and lush vegetation.
views. You’re likely to have the castle all to yourself.
on the next hilltop along from Summer temperatures are
Krak des Chevaliers was eventually taken in Krak des Chevaliers. It’s a simple
1271 by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars. Around this scorching and winters can be
place serving standard Syrian
chilly, with rain and often snow.
time, Prince Edward of England was in the Holy cuisine, including salads and
grilled-meat kebabs, and has Budget per Day for Two
Land as part of the Ninth Crusade and visited the
spectacular views of the castle. You could get by on as little
castle. He returned home in 1272 and, as King
Where to Stay
as £40–50, though £100 is
Edward I, set about conquering Wales: the castles more realistic.
Within walking distance of the
he built at Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Harlech and
castle is the fine Al-Wadi Hotel Website
elsewhere – with their concentric rings of defences (www.alwadihotel.com). Its www.syriatourism.org
ABOVE Terrain around Krak des Chevaliers, Syria – were all modelled on the Syrian original.
43
4 MORE MEDIEVAL
FORTRESSES TO RIVAL
THE TOWER OF LONDON
BEAUMARIS CASTLE, ANGLESEY, WALES Acclaimed as the
finest concentric castle in Europe, this impressive fortress was
built by King Edward I in 1295 on the island of Anglesey, off the
Welsh coast, as part of his campaign to subdue the principality.
KARAK CASTLE, KARAK, JORDAN This splendid Crusader
castle stands at a strategic crossroads in southern Jordan and
occupies the highest point of a prominent hill. Extraordinarily,
the modern town of Karak, which has grown up alongside the
castle, is enclosed by the medieval walls that encircle the hilltop.
BEAUFORT CASTLE, NABATIEH, LEBANON Lebanon’s finest
Crusader castle dates from 1139. The stronghold has also played
a part in modern warfare, with control of the ruins in recent
decades passing between local militias and the Israeli army.
CHATEAU GAILLARD, EURE, FRANCE Built in 1197 under
the orders of King Richard I (the Lionheart) – who was also
duke of Normandy – this ruined hulk stands near Rouen, its
mighty round tower dominating a curve in the Seine.
44
ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS 44 MORE AMAZING ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS
ABOVE Monumental figures of Buddha at Gal Vihara, carved from the rock cliff at Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka
RIGHT Evocative walled town of Aït Benhaddou, Morocco, on the fringe of the Sahara
GAL VIHARA BUDDHAS, POLONNARUWA, SRI LANKA These four huge, exquisite AIT BENHADDOU, MOROCCO Looking like something out of a living bible, it is no
figures of Buddha near the beautiful ancient city of Polonnaruwa were cut from a surprise that Aït Benhaddou has featured as the backdrop in numerous historical films.
single granite cliff. They include a standing figure more than three times life-size This beautiful walled collection of ancient fortresses or kasbahs, which make up the ksar,
and, twice bigger still, a Buddha in the reclining “lion posture” (simhasana) in which he seems to rise out of the red earth from another era. The town dates from the 16th
attained his final nirvana. The two other Buddhas are seated. The figures, which remain century and it thrived on trade, being in a prime location on the caravan route between
unsurpassed in Sinhalese art, were commissioned by the rich and devout 12th-century the Sahara and Marrakech. Today, with its earthen houses and decorative crenellated
King Parakramabahu, but nobody knows who it was that carved them. towers gradually eroded by the rain, it is inhabited by fewer than ten families.
MAIDEN CASTLE, DORSET, UK Just TEMPLE OF SETI I, ABYDOS, EGYPT CITADELLE LAFERRIERE, HAITI This dramatic fortress is perched like some deity’s ship
south of Dorchester lie the remains of the Abydos was dedicated to the ruler of the on top of a high mountain, with a sheer drop on three sides. Built for Henri Christophe,
largest iron-age hill fort in Britain, a series of Underworld and this temple, built under leader of the slave rebellion, it is said to be the largest citadel in the western hemisphere,
towering earthworks some 6 m (20 ft) high. Seti I in the 13th century BC, was the burial its walls reaching 40 m (130 ft) high and 4 m (13 ft) thick. Some 20,000 workers are said
Among the finds made here are skeletons site for all the pharaohs of the first dynasty. to have died during its construction. It was designed to support the island community
of the men who fought in vain to defend Its List of Kings – 76 cartouches carved for up to a year, in case the country should ever come under siege by the French. The
it against Roman invasion in AD 43. into the walls – is especially fascinating. expected attack never came, however, and it remains a symbol of Haiti’s independence.
SERGIYEV POSAD, RUSSIA Sergiyev PERSEPOLIS, IRAN This, the glory of MOUNTAIN RESORT, CHENGDE, CHINA
Posad is home to the Troitse-Sergiyeva ancient Persia, is the city of kings Darius This walled estate is the final flourish of
Lavra monastery – spiritual centre of the and Xerxes, a metropolis which buzzed imperial China, built by the emperors of
Russian Orthodox Church and an artistic with traders from the 5th century BC. Set the Qing Dynasty between 1703 and
treasurehouse. This magical enclave of on an immense terrace, it was approached 1792 as an escape from the heat and
onion domes and churches was founded from the plains up shallow steps, leading intrigue of court life in Beijing. Inside, a
by St Sergius, Russia’s patron saint, in the to the monumental Gate of All Nations. replica of the Forbidden City stands
14th century. Among its cathedrals is one The portal, carved with bulls’ heads, has among new palaces, temples and other
added by Ivan the Terrible, and another inscriptions in three languages urging buildings, all beautifully landscaped to
decorated by icon painter Andrei Rublev. travellers to respect each other’s cultures. mirror different facets of the country.
CUEVAS DE POMIER, SAN CRISTÓBAL, ERUM, OMAN Though little is visible but PALENQUE, MEXICO Visitors who come
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC A collection of its foundations, to look on the remains of upon this majestic Mayan city, emerging
more than 50 interconnecting caves, the Erum is to look on a legend. The “City of from the jungle canopy and watched
Cuevas de Pomier contain several 1,000 Pillars”, which flourished between over by toucans and howler monkeys,
thousand spectacular drawings, carvings 3,000 BC and the 1st century AD, was feel as if they are the first to set eyes on
and pictographs portraying human discovered in the 1980s using satellite it. Though not the largest of its kind, the
figures, birds, reptiles and religious rites. technology to track its whereabouts in site has some impressive buildings. Of
They were created some 2,000 years ago the Rub’ al-Khali Desert. Until then, it was the few excavated, most notable are the
using charcoal and animal fat, and are thought to exist only in folk tales and Temple of Inscriptions, a palace with
principally the work of the Taíno people. ancient records, including the Qur’an. intriguing carvings, and an observatory.
45
POTALA PALACE, LHASA, TIBET A match for the dramatic mountains that surround it, LEPTIS MAGNA, LIBYA On the Mediterranean coast, east of Tripoli, stand the most
the great Red Palace sits on top of the great White Palace, which in turn sits on top of wonderful Roman remains in Africa. The city began life under the Phoenicians in the
Red Hill, 300 m (985 ft) above Lhasa. At 3,700 m (12,140 ft) above sea level, the whole rich, 10th century BC. It was incorporated into the Roman Empire in AD 43, and went on to
historic complex is also way above most of the rest of the world. Potala Palace was the flourish as a trading post, particularly after a native son, Septimius Severus, became emperor.
home of the Dalai Lamas from 1649 to 1959, and it is a place of immensities, with 200,000 Excavations have revealed large marbled baths, a beautiful theatre (see p22), a market
statues, 10,000 shrines and 1,000 rooms. The opening of the Qingzang railway from China place and a basilica as well as some of the finest figurative mosaic floors ever discovered.
in 2006 has brought many visitors, keen for an insight into this remote and spiritual place. There are also some strikingly modern details, such as dado rails and skirting boards.
JERASH, JORDAN All the power and GLENDALOUGH, IRELAND In the heart TRÔO, LOIR-ET-CHER, FRANCE Carved
brilliance of Rome can be seen in these of the Wicklow Mountains lies a glacial into the white cliff above the Loir river, the
stupendous ruins. With beautifully valley with two lakes, famous for its beauty pretty troglodyte village of Trôo (from trou
preserved city walls, temples, baths and and its “city of seven churches”. Founded – “hole”) has provided safe lodging for
theatres, and a main street flanked with as a monastery in the 6th century, the site centuries; its oldest dwellings date from
imposing pillars, some consider this to is noted for its distinctive tower, decorated the 12th century. They are still in demand
be the best Roman site outside Italy. crosses and 11th–12th-century churches. as second homes for stylish Parisians.
JANTAR MANTAR OBSERVATORY, JAIPUR, INDIA From the pyramids of Egypt to the METEORAS MONASTERIES, GREECE SACSAYHUAMAN, PERU Just outside the
standing stones of Stonehenge and the Bighorn Medicine Wheel, man has always Fittingly named after meteora, Greek for city of Cusco stands an Inca complex of
studied the heavens. This astronomical observatory in west central India, however, is a “suspended in air”, this collection of 16 huge walls and vast boulders, which fit as
real curiosity. Jantar Mantar is the largest and best preserved of five similar ensembles monasteries hovers atop astonishing if nature had fashioned them. It consists
built by Maharajah Jai Singh II between 1727 and 1734. It consists of a series of 16 stone pillars of rock. Ropes and pulleys were of three tiered walls zigzagging towards
and marble structures which act as instruments for measuring time and the movement used for supplies, and ladders could be a tower, interrupted by great doorways.
of celestial bodies. They were designed on a large scale for greater accuracy, and its pulled up in case of attack. Remote and Built in the 15th century over 70 years,
Great Sundial, the world’s largest, can tell the time to within 2 seconds. Some of the unbreachable, they helped to keep alive with a labour force of 20,000, it is a masterly
instruments are still used to forecast how hot the summer months will be, as well as the traditions of the Orthodox Church feat of Inca construction. Pizarro’s forces
the expected duration and intensity of the monsoon. during the 500 years of Ottoman rule. took the fort in 1536 after weeks of seige.
TRE CASTELLI, BELLINZONA, PAESTUM, CAMPAGNA, ITALY This is PANCHA RATHAS, MAMALLAPURAM,
SWITZERLAND Though small, Bellinzona the most important ancient Greek site INDIA The Pancha Rathas are five lovely
is of strategic importance as a gateway to south of Naples. Paestum has three 7th-century rock temples cut from single
Italy, guarding the St Gotthard Pass and massive Doric temples in an excellent pink granite outcrops. Being attached to
the Ticino valley. Fortified since the 1st state of repair: the Basilica, or Temple of the earth they could not be consecrated,
century BC, it was the focus of a power Hera (mid-6th century BC); the Temple so they were never used for worship.
struggle between its Italian occupants of Neptune (5th century BC); and the With beams, lintels and “thatched” roofs
and Swiss neighbours in the 13th–15th Temple of Ceres, thought to date between in imitation of earlier, wooden examples,
centuries, resulting in an ensemble of three its two neighbours. One of its finest they influenced the design of Hindu
castles, joined by lofty city walls. treasures is the Tomb of the Diver. temples over the following 1,000 years.
46
ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS
ABOVE Stunning mosaic decoration inside the Galla Placidia Mausoleum, Ravenna
RIGHT Stately Hatshepsut Temple rising out of the red Egyptian desert
GALLA PLACIDIA MAUSOLEUM, RAVENNA, ITALY Most visitors go to Ravenna to see HATSHEPSUT TEMPLE, EGYPT Called “the sublime of sublimes” by the ancient Egyptians,
the beautiful mosaics of the Basilica di San Vitale, unaware that just a few footsteps away, the mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut (1479–58 BC) was the grandest in the whole
within the grounds of the church, lies a splendid cruciform mausoleum. The Mausoleum of Thebes. Designed by Hatshepsut’s architect, Senenmut, during the 18th Dynasty, the
of Galla Placidia (AD 425–30) is decorated with some of the earliest and most fabulous partly rock-hewn building rises theatrically from the valley of Deir el-Bahri in a series of
mosaics in Western art. Heavenly blue covers the ceiling, and the Apostles are all represented, colonnaded terraces, beneath the golden limestone curtain of rocks that separates the
while over the door a Christ-figure sits in a country setting guarding his flock. The area from the Valley of the Kings. The temple contains exquisite decorative reliefs and
window panes are made of stone panels so thin that light seeps through them. murals, including scenes portraying the divine birth of the queen.
THE ARK, BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN YONGHEGONG, BEIJING This beautiful AXUM, ETHIOPIA Hidden in the remote mountains of northern Ethiopia lies Axum, a gem
The fortress that lies at the heart of Bukhara 17th-century Buddhist temple, also known of the ancient world that was founded in the 1st century BC as the capital of the Axumite
dates back 2,000 years. It was the home as the Lama Temple, comprises five main Empire. One of Ethiopia’s holiest sites and the supposed home of the Queen of Sheba,
of the emirs who ruled over this great city halls, elegant courtyards and stunning Axum houses many different Islamic and Christian archaeological treasures, including
on the Silk Road. Inside its mud-brick walls statuary. In the Pavilion of Ten Thousand giant 4th-century obelisks thought to be memorials of Abyssinian kings, and the alleged
lie beautiful mosques, former ceremonial Happinesses is a 25-m (80-ft) wooden remains of the mystical Ark of the Covenant, in the church of St Mary of Zion. Despite
rooms and the remains of the harem. Buddha carved from a single tree. intensive research, surprisingly little is known about this once-powerful commercial centre.
EPHESUS, TURKEY More than any other NURAGHI, SARDINIA, ITALY Thousands LABRANG MONASTERY, XIAHE, CHINA
classical site, the ruined city of Ephesus of circular forts dating from 1500 BC are This extensive monastery is in a beautiful
shows the harmonious way in which scattered around Sardinia, although this is mountain setting by the Daxia river, high
Greek architecture segued into Roman. probably a quarter of the number originally on the Tibetan plateau. Outside Tibet, it is
Paved marble streets lead to the Library built. These unusual, truncated cones were the most important centre of the Yellow
of Celsus (AD 114–17) and the Hellenistic renovated in Roman times, but little else Hat Sect (Gelugpa), of which the Dalai
25,000-seat amphitheatre, which was is known about them. The largest is Su Lama is leader. Inside are halls, learning
renovated by the Romans. Pause to Nuraxi in Barùmini, which rises to three institutes and sutras. Closed during the
imagine the ancient rattle of trade storeys. The structures have come to Cultural Revolution, it reopened in 1980,
echoing around this enormous port. represent the mystical spirit of the island. and is now home to around 2,000 monks.
LUGO’S ROMAN WALLS, SPAIN EL CARACOL, BELIZE The Sky Palace, NEMRUT DAGI, TURKEY This tumble of
Western Europe’s finest surviving Roman soaring 42 m (140 ft) above the jungle temples and statuary on a tawny peak in
walls completely surround the town of floor, is just one of thousands of buildings the Anti-Taurus mountain range is the
Lugo. Set beside the Minho river in Galicia, identified in this ancient Mayan city. At its burial ground of King Antiochus I Theos,
northwest Spain, Lugo was important to peak in the 7th century, El Caracol was who ruled the Commagene kingdom
the Romans because of its thermal waters twice the size of Belize City, which is today between 64 and 38 BC. Antiochus built
and the vast deposits of gold that were the capital. Its power was felt for miles two temples and what is assumed to be
found nearby. Walk around the top of the around, and it frequently fought against, his burial tumulus. To glorify his rule, he
walls, which are 10-m (32-ft) high, passing and defeated, its neighbouring city-states, had three terraces carved into the hillside
its many gateways and towers on the way. including Tikal in Guatamala (see pp40–41). and adorned with statues of himself.
47
CHURCH OF THE TRANSFIGURATION, KIZHI, RUSSIA Kizhi, an island in Lake Onega THIKSE MONASTERY, LEH, INDIA Spectacular both from a distance and at close quarters,
in northwest Russia, is known for its extraordinary collection of wooden buildings, several the 15th-century Thikse Monastery perches on top of a hillock high in the Himalayas. This
of which are 18th-century, multi-domed churches. The ensemble has come together is a gompa, a fortified monastery and education centre for followers of the Dalai Lama’s
over a 250-year period, with many new additions since the 1950s. The highlight is Yellow Hat Sect (Gelugpa). The complex is a dozen storeys high, comprises many temples
the Church of the Transfiguration, built in 1714 out of pine wood. It has a string of onion and is considered an architectural highlight of Ladakh – this region of India, which is
domes and four apses, each of which faces a cardinal point. Wood is definitely the word sometimes called “little Tibet” after its neighbour. Inside the monastery is a fine collection
here, and fishermen and museum staff live in the island’s log-cabin villages. of paintings and a huge golden Buddha. Monks and nuns still live here.
CHÂTEAU D’AZAY-LE-RIDEAU, LOIRE, VISBY, SWEDEN Once a Viking trading post and later a member of the Hanseatic League
FRANCE One of the earliest Renaissance of trading cities, Visby is a fascinating place to visit. Set against the rugged coastline and
châteaux, Azay, with its fairytale turrets picturesque countryside of the island of Gotland, this once-thriving port retains the feel
and spires, displays the transition from of a flourishing community. With the remains of several medieval churches, a harbour, a
the Gothic to the Renaissance style. It towered boundary wall and beautiful botanical gardens, this charming town – now a
was built by Philippa Lesbahy, wife of UNESCO World Heritage Site – certainly deserves the nickname “City of Roses and Ruins”. Its
Francois I’s corrupt advisor Gilles Berthelot. lively Medieval Week celebrations in summer draw costumed revellers from far and wide.
PERGAMUM, TURKEY The acropolis in SKELLIG MICHAEL, KERRY, IRELAND PLAIN OF JARS, XIENG KHOUANG, STARI MOST, MOSTAR, BOSNIA AND
the great Hellenistic city of Pergamum A brutal asceticism accompanied the LAOS Legend has it that a race of giants HERZEGOVINA This handsome bridge
sits atop a 300-m (985-ft) hill, and is one of lives of early monks, who clung to life in lived on the Xieng Khouang plain of the over the Neretva river is one of the most
the most dramatic sights in Turkey. Explore remote and inhospitable places. The Laos Highlands, which is no surprise given potent symbols of the 1990s Balkan War.
the 3rd-century-BC amphitheatre, the island of Skellig Michael, off the west the huge stone pots that lie scattered Stari Most (Old Bridge) was built in the
few pillars of the white-marble Trajan’s coast of Ireland, is one such place. Here, across the landscape here. Nobody knows 16th century to replace its Roman
Temple, and the remains of the library, near the island’s craggy summit, early exactly how they were made, but it’s predecessor, and is an important
which once housed 200,000 parchment Christians built beehive-shaped stone believed the Mon-Khmer people made example of Ottoman architecture. It was
scrolls. Much of the city’s treasure is now huts that were inhabited by up to a them in the 1st to 5th centuries AD, destroyed, along with much of the Old
in Berlin’s Pergamonmuseum. dozen monks for some 600 years. either for storage or as funerary urns. Town, in 1993, but was rebuilt in 2004.
PALAZZO DUCALE, URBINO, ITALY SALAMIS, CYPRUS Salamis was the main BASILICA CISTERN, ISTANBUL, TURKEY
Though a little out of the way, this palace is port and capital of Cyprus for 1,000 years, Built beneath the city’s main square
a highlight on the Italian Renaissance trail. and although most of the excavated during the reign of Justinian in the 6th
Built for the enlightened Duke Federico da ruins are Roman, it was shaped by many century AD, this sumptuous Byzantine
Montefeltro, it displays the full power and empires. In the Middle Ages, it was water cistern contains marble columns
splendour of 15th-century Italy. Its 250 largely covered by sand, which saved and two giant heads of Medusa, one
rooms include a vast library. Today the much of it from plunder and decay. The on its side and the other mysteriously,
building houses the Galleria Nazionale site includes a gymnasium, theatre and turned upside down. Visitors tread
delle Marche, which has one of Italy’s baths. Enjoy its spectacular shoreside walkways to the mixed sounds of
greatest collections of Renaissance art. location among mimosa and pines. classical music and dripping water.
festivals and parties
Dazzling street parade in Port of Spain during Trinidad Carnival (p53)
50
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES
Salvador Carnival
vs Rio Carnival
Officially the biggest street party on the planet, Salvador’s awesome carnival offers greater
participation and much more fun than its more famous counterpart in Rio
NEED TO KNOW massive sound systems and stages where live bands
perform. Three more routes accommodate scores
LOCATION The coastal city of
Salvador is the capital of Brazil’s
of vibrant blocos (parades). Campo Grande, the
#FMÏN
Bahia province and the gateway oldest of these, runs through the narrow streets of
to the beaches of the north #3";*- downtown Salvador, while the Ondina route keeps
WHEN Salvador Carnival mainly to the beach areas. Pelourinho, Salvador
1&36 4"-7"%03
takes place in the week
before Ash Wednesday #0-*7*" #SBTÓMJB Carnival’s newest circuit, attracts highly rhythmic
ORIGINS First held in 3JPEF
+BOFJSP
bands and performers dressed in lavish costumes.
the 16th century when the 4ÍP1BVMP
Countless parades and processions weave tirelessly
Portuguese came to Brazil "3(&/5*/" "UMBOUJD
0DFBO along these routes during carnival, turning the city
POPULATION Salvador: 6 million 636(6":
into a spectacular mosaic of colour and motion.
There are three ways to experience carnival ABOVE Revellers partying around a trio eléctrico, Ondina circuit, Salvador
Rio Carnival may have the edge when it comes to as the locals do. You can pay to join a bloco or for
glitzy befeathered costumes, but Salvador is where access to a camarote (balcony) overlooking the variety. A staggering 10,000 street parties blast their
the real party is. According to the Guinness Book of processions, where there is usually entertainment, individual sounds across the city at all hours of the
World Records, Salvador hosts the biggest street party food and a busy bar. If you choose either of these day and night, from beside amply stocked bars.
on the planet, with more than two million revellers options, you’ll be given a free abadá (branded T-shirt), And while most carnival celebrations around the
turning out each year for the festivities. During this which gives you access to other exclusive areas. world finish late on Shrove Tuesday, Salvador’s
anarchic week, almost 30 km (19 miles) of the city’s Alternatively, you can simply be out there on the knees-up continues well into Ash Wednesday, with
streets are claimed by wild party-goers, costumed streets with the partying masses, dancing, eating, the legendary arrastão (round-up), a parade that
dancers and live bands playing every kind of music. drinking and generally soaking up the atmosphere. winds its way from Farol da Barra to Ondina for one
There are two procession circuits in the city for Though Rio Carnival focuses on the admittedly final fling – a no-holds-barred party on the beach.
floats and trio eléctricos – trucks stacked high with splendid samba parade, Salvador offers much more
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Mazatlán
Carnival
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Mazatlán is in
the state of Sinaloa, Mexico,
and lies 1,190 km (740 miles) 64" A line of dancers wearing extraordinary tasselled costumes during
south of the Arizona border Ati-Atihan, the Philippines
WHEN Mazatlán Carnival
Ati-Atihan
.POUFSSFZ (VMGPG
is held in mid- to late .FYJDP
February every year .";"5-«/ islanders, the Ati people, who gave them some
.&9*$0
ORIGINS First held (VBEBMBKBSB land on which to live. Every year since then, the
.FYJDP$JUZ
in 1897 when the port settlers have celebrated this act of generosity
opened to big ships NEED TO KNOW
1BDJmD0DFBO with an enormous feast, and by painting their
POPULATION Mazatlán: 350,000 LOCATION The feast is held in 4PVUI
Kalibo town on Panay Island, the
$IJOB faces black to look like the Ati people. The very
4FB
Visayas island group, the Philippines .BOJMB name “Ati-Atihan” means “to be like an Ati”. Many
1B D J m D
Mazatlán’s exuberant carnival celebrations, which WHEN Ati-Atihan takes 1)*-*11*/&4 0 DF B O indigenous Ati people still live on the island and
run for five days before Ash Wednesday, draw place in mid-January join in the festivities every year.
,"-*#0
ORIGINS First held in $FCV
up to 400,000 participants every year. The the 13th century as an
Although Ati-Atihan takes place over two
4VMV
festivities take place on a 10-km (6-mile) stretch indigenous festival and later 4FB %BWBP
weeks in January, it isn’t until the last few days of
of the city’s long ocean-side street, the Malecón. influenced by the Spanish the second week that the real party gets going.
POPULATION $F M F C F T
Seafood and cold beer fuel the party, where ."-":4*"
4FB Before then, the focus is on religious processions,
Kalibo: 62,000
infectious rhythms from roving mariachi bands art fairs and theatre performances, although
and pachanga (a type of Latin American music) significant ritual and ceremony is also evident
ensembles mingle in the confetti-filled air. Ati-Atihan, with its vibrant costumes and parades, during the three final days of mayhem. On the
Mazatlán Carnival is less hectic than many other is like carnival elsewhere in the world, only it’s much first of these days, locals worship Santo Niño in
celebrations around the world, and is particularly wilder. Here, the frenzied masses take to the streets the cathedral in a formal and spiritual build-up to
popular with families. There are several idyllic in such an unruly free-for-all that the world’s best- the partying, which is accompanied by deafening
beaches nearby, which offer party-goers a known carnival celebrations seem quiet by tribal drumming. Parades of Catholic and
welcome break from the city’s bustling streets. comparison. The fortnight-long shindig has non- indigenous pagan iconography and dancers in
Christian roots, but these days it is held in honour stunning tribal costumes fill the streets, where
of the Christ Child, Santo Niño, who was introduced percussion from road-side bands forms an
Practical Information
Getting There and Around International flights go from Miami and Los
to the islanders by the Spanish in the 19th century. endless, mesmeric soundtrack to events. It’s
Angeles to Mazatlán, and there are regional flights from Mexico City. Ati-Atihan’s distinguishing feature is that the impossible not to want to join the dance.
Taxis are the best way to get around the city, which is spread out along revellers all paint their faces black. The story goes At dawn the next day, a rosary procession
24 km (15 miles) of coastline. that in the 13th century, a band of roaming Malay and Mass are held before the cavorting on the
Daytime Temperature 25°C (77°F) during carnival. tribesmen came to the island of Panay to escape streets gets under way again. And on the final
Website www.carnavalmazatlan.net/index-en.php from trouble in Borneo. Here they met the day, the party reaches fever pitch when different
53
Trinidad
Olinda and
Carnival
Recife Carnivals
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The best carnival events
LOCATION This double
take place in the island’s majestic
colonial capital, Port of Spain $BSJCCFBO
carnival extravaganza is based #FMÏN 4FB 5PCBHP
in Recife and nearby Olinda, on WHEN Carnival gets
the northeast coast of Brazil fully underway during 53*/*%"%
#3";*-
WHEN Both carnivals take
the weekend before "/%
1&36 3&$*'&"/% 10350'
place in mid- to late February, Ash Wednesday 41"*/ 50#"(0
#SBTJMJB 0-*/%"
#0-*7*"
but sometimes run into March ORIGINS First held in 5SJOJEBE "UMBOUJD
(VMGPG
ORIGINS First held by the
3JPEF the late 18th century 1BSJB 0DFBO
+BOFJSP
4ÍP1BVMP POPULATION 4BO'FSOBOEP
Portuguese in the 16th century
POPULATION Olinda:
"3(&/5*/" "UMBOUJD Port of Spain: 310,000
0DFBO
380,000; Recife 1.5 million 636(6":
FORGET IBIZA?
THE BUILD-UP Centuries ago, the Phoenician
inhabitants of Ibiza worshipped Bes, the god of
Mamaia
dance. In the 1980s, sun-starved Brits caught
on and flocked to the island, turning it into
ground zero for electronic culture. Loyal fans
claim Ibiza has the best clubs, the coolest DJs
and the most gorgeous beaches in the world.
vs Ibiza
development have blighted Ibiza’s rustic charm.
San An’s West End strip is a haven of tacky strip
clubs and British theme pubs. Strict licensing
laws have put an end to its famous after-party
With its prices up and new laws laid down, the erstwhile queen of clubs, Ibiza, is seeing scene and open-air events have largely died out
due to noise restrictions. The major clubs are
its fans move on to Mamaia, the new party paradise on the Black Sea coast eye-wateringly expensive.
THE BUILD-UP Pioneered by the musician Peter Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Gabriel and various others back in 1982, the UK’s Royal Air Maroc and various There are numerous good hotels in
annual WOMAD Festival has become a byword for low-cost budget airlines fly the medina, but it is essential to
into Marrakech. Transfer to book ahead for the festival. Try
quality live music from all corners of the planet. World
Essaouira by bus takes about the serene La Maison du Vent,
Music’s mainstream acceptance is largely due to this 3 hours; a taxi will take about 25 rue Mourabitine (tel. + 212 24
family-friendly festival, treasured by many as an institution 2 hours. Essaouira’s walled 47 38 19) or the atmospheric Dar
on the alternative festival scene and held in July at medina is compact enough to be Ness, 1 Rue Khalid ben Walid
Wiltshire’s Charlton Park. explored by foot. (tel. +212 24 47 68 04).
Where to Eat Population
THE LETDOWN WOMAD’s wide-ranging programme can Numerous restaurants serve great 70,000
mean the choice of who to see is overwhelming. The feeling Moroccan and international Daytime Temperature
that you might be missing the next big thing is palpable; the ABOVE Festival-goers milling around among cuisine, but the highlight of
fluttering silk flags at WOMAD 19°C (67°F) in June.
phrase “you should have been there” widespread. Essaouira’s food scene is to sample
grilled fish and seafood straight Budget per Day for Two
off the boats. Try one of the many £110 for accommodation,
GOING ANYWAY? Don’t just stand there watching, join in: WOMAD has an extensive programme of dance food and travel.
stalls in the harbour or Chez Sam,
and percussion workshops that get you closer to the cultures concerned. Then unwind: there are yoga sessions,
Au Fond du Port (tel. +212 Website
cookery classes and even a WOMAD spa. Can’t put up a tent? There are tipis, yurts and people to do it for you. 24 47 62 38 or 61 15 74 85). www.festival-gnaoua.net
58
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES
New Year,
money for admission at events that are
Locals and tourists alike flock to Marina Bay to see in
supposed to be free of charge. The party’s
the New Year, which is welcomed with eye-popping
famous parade has also been moved from its
Singapore
fireworks over the water, set spectacularly against traditional downtown Hong Kong route to
the city skyline. In Chinatown, a countdown party Tsim Sha Tsui in nearby Kowloon. While
kicks off an all-night street rave that throbs with there’s more breathing space for spectators
vs New Year,
music from international DJs and live bands. All here, many people complain that the spectacle
over the city, parties carry on until the wee hours. has lost its authentic flavour.
Hong Kong
A festival feel continues throughout the city well
into the New Year with the 15-day Singapore River GOING ANYWAY? Book early. Reserve your
Hongbao, held in Esplanade Park. At this event, flights, hotel rooms and even meals well in
Chinese New Year in exotic, cosmopolitan which is unique to Singapore, visitors are sprinkled advance, and be prepared for delays, queues
Singapore outstrips the Hong Kong party and surcharges everywhere you go.
with gold dust and confetti bearing lucky numbers,
towering displays depict mythological figures from
NEED TO KNOW Chinese lore, and nightly performances feature
acrobatics, traditional music and martial arts. Carnival
LOCATION Singapore is an
island city-state situated 96 km
rides run along the waterfront and nightly firework
(60 miles) north of the equator, . " - ": 4 * " displays illuminate the city skyline. At the same time,
at the tip of the Malaysian the iconic riverside complex known as Esplanade –
peninsula in Southeast Asia
$IBOHJ Theatres on the Bay hosts the Huayi Chinese Festival
WHEN Chinese New Year is in *OUFSOBUJPOBM
the first month of the Chinese 4*/("103&
"JSQPSU of the Arts, which stages visual arts performances
lunar calendar (Jan–Feb) that embody the spirit of Chinese culture.
VISITORS PER YEAR $)*/"508/ The climax of Singapore’s Chinese New Year, the ABOVE Partying masses on the street during Hong Kong’s
Around 1 million people – foreign Chinese New Year celebrations, China
and local – attend the event 4 U SBJ U PG Chingay Parade of DreamS is a night-time spectacle
4 J OHBQ PSF
of enormous floats, 4,000 performers in glittering
costumes and performances by guest troupes. The
The most important event of the Chinese calendar parade winds through historic downtown and is
is a breath of fresh air in Singapore, where revellers followed by an all-night dance party under the stars. PRACTICAL INFORMATION
can join in the celebrations without being swallowed
up by crowds, overwhelmed by long queues and Getting There and Around Hotel (www.raffleshotel.com)
Singapore’s Changi International for a taste of East meets West,
hindered by city-wide restaurant and shop closings
Airport is a 25-minute drive from Singapore-style.
typical of the holiday in Hong Kong.
the city centre. Taxis are the best Where to Stay
Leading up to the event, Singapore’s Chinatown way to travel to the city, and Request a room facing Marina
is a bustling hive of shoppers. The neighbourhood’s within the city they are a reliable Bay at the Ritz-Carlton, Millennia
picturesque narrow streets, lined with charming option. Buses and a train system Singapore (www.ritzcarlton.com).
pre-war shophouses, are draped with red lanterns, called the MRT are also easy to use. Daytime Temperature
twinkling lights and banners. Hawkers sell traditional Where to Eat 30°C (86°F) at the time of
Chinese goodies, such as Mandarin orange shrubs, Singapore’s dining scene is very Chinese New Year.
peach blossoms, potted bamboo stalks, bak kwa diverse. During the festival, some Budget per Day for Two
restaurants close and others get £320, including food, transport,
(barbecued pork), pineapple tarts and decorations
fully booked, but there will always accommodation and entrance fees.
for the home. Late into the evening, visitors can
be something tempting open. Website
watch lion dances and other music, dance and Try Doc Cheng’s at the Raffles www.yoursingapore.com
theatre performances in the streets. ABOVE Street dancers rehearsing for the Chingay Parade of DreamS
59
FORGET ST PATRICK’S
DAY IN NEW YORK?
THE BUILD-UP New York’s St Patrick’s Day is
one of the world’s most famous saint’s day
NEED TO KNOW companies. Unlike the sprawling, all-embracing cultural ambassadors: the accent is considered
Edinburgh Fringe, with its hit-and-miss aesthetic, more refined; the main thoroughfare, Collins Street,
LOCATION Melbourne is */%0/&4*"
on Australia’s southeast coast,
everything here – no matter how avant-garde or has a leafy “Paris End”; and a plethora of theatres
1,040 km (650 miles) from the * OE J BO %BSXJO experimental – is staged on the merit of its quality. and galleries ensures a healthy arts diet all year.
0 DF BO
national capital, Canberra $PSBM
4 FB The Melbourne Festival offers its visitors a The Melbourne Festival boosts this much-vaunted
WHEN The festival runs multicultural smorgasbord of dance, theatre, reputation with 17 days of ticketed and free events,
for 17 days every October "6453"-*"
VISITORS PER YEAR
opera, music, visual arts, multimedia and outdoor most of them programmed by a high-profile
Around 475,000 1FSUI 4ZEOFZ
events. Each year boasts around 60 to 80 events artistic director on a three- or four-year contract.
"EFMBJEF
DAYTIME $BOCFSSB
held in a host of inner-city venues, including the Previous programmes have included recitals
TEMPERATURE
19°C (67°F) in October
.&-#063/& flagship Arts Centre, home to the Playhouse and from the classical Schönberg Ensemble collective;
State Theatres, nestled next to the Yarra River and performances by the Merce Cunningham Dance
topped by Melbourne’s now-iconic spire; The Company; a photography exhibition and concert
The Melbourne International Arts Festival is Famous Spiegeltent, a European Mirror Tent billed by the “Godmother of Punk”, artist and musician
Australia’s foremost celebration of global performing as “the ultimate cabaret and music salon”, which is Patti Smith, as well as a collaborative event with
and visual arts. Established in 1986 as a sister festival pitched in the Arts Centre forecourt for the the composer Philip Glass; and a performance by
to the Festival dei Due Mondi in Spoleto, Italy (see duration; and the National Gallery of Victoria, with the all-star indigenous Australian collective, the
pp268–9), and the Spoleto Festival USA, in Charleston, its striking “water wall” and stained-glass ceiling. Black Arm Band. As a background to the live shows,
South Carolina (whose “two worlds” are those of Federation Square acts as the central point of an In Conversation discussion series offers insights
European and American culture), the festival was the festivities, and the opening and closing parties into the thoughts of many extraordinary artistes.
first known as the Spoleto Festival Melbourne but are held in this colourful open-plan space. Both There are also workshops in dance, theatre and
took on its current name in 2003. Today, it is events celebrate the artists, the audiences and the music, lectures and school and family events. With
renowned for premiering and promoting some of multicultural city of Melbourne itself. Melburnians entertainment for night owls at the Beck’s Bar,
the best national and international artistes and have long prided themselves on being Australia’s Artist Bar and The Famous Spiegeltent, the
Melbourne Festival is as inclusive as it is inspiring.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET “THE FRINGE”?
Getting There and Around For modern Australian food,
THE BUILD-UP The Edinburgh Fringe Festival is officially the
Most major international airlines Rockpool Bar & Grill is hard to
largest arts festival in the world. For three hectic weeks each fly to Melbourne’s Tullamarine beat (www.rockpool.com.au).
August, “The Fringe”, as it is known, encompasses over 30,000 Airport, 22 km (14 miles) from Where to Stay
performances by hundreds of groups, spanning theatre, stand-up, the city centre. Take a taxi or the The Grand Hyatt is on stylish
music, dance and children’s entertainment in around 250 venues. 24-hour Skybus into Melbourne. Collins St (www.melbourne.
The city centre is a neat grid on grand.hyatt.com); the central,
THE LETDOWN Huge crowds mill along Edinburgh’s Royal the Yarra River, compact enough
boutique-style Hotel Lindrum
Mile to watch street performers, buy tickets from the Fringe to be covered on foot, but with
has a club-like ambience (www.
Shop and amass flyers for shows. Well-reviewed shows sell out good public transport too.
hotellindrum.com.au); Crown
very early, leaving a choice of less-than-satisfactory alternatives: Where to Eat Promenade on lively Southbank
with no selection and approval process, quality varies widely. For exceptional tapas visit is smart and affordable (www.
MoVida (www.movida.com.au); crownpromenade.com.au).
GOING ANYWAY? Take time out to relax on a café terrace, stroll revisit the French classics at
Budget per Day for Two
along the Water of Leith Walkway or visit the city’s spectacular ABOVE Crowds thronging the streets of Edinburgh Bistro Guillaume (www.
city centre during The Fringe Festival bistroguillaume.com.au); or £180, including accommodation,
castle. On the second Sunday in August, head to the large green meals and public transport.
indulge in some spectacular
expanse of the Meadows for the carnivalesque Fringe Sunday,
haute cuisine at Vue de Monde Website
a free showcase of events. (www.vuedemonde.com.au). www.melbournefestival.com.au
64
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES 5 MORE ARTS FESTIVALS TO RIVAL THE EDINBURGH FRINGE
Avignon
White Nights
Festival Literary discussion taking place inside the Teatro Heredia, Cartagena
Festival
NEED TO KNOW Hay Festival
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Avignon is 90 km
(55 miles) northwest of Marseille
and 600 km (370 miles)
-JMMF
Cartagena LOCATION St Petersburg lies
1BSJT 4USBTCPVSH on the Gulf of Finland, 380 km
southeast of Paris (235 miles) from Helsinki in
NEED TO KNOW
WHEN The festival takes '3"/$& 48*5;&3-"/% Finland and 700 km (300 miles) 3644*"
place over three weeks in July LOCATION Cartagena is a large from the capital, Moscow '*/-"/%
#BZPG -ZPO $BSJCCFBO
VISITORS PER YEAR #JTDBZ *5"-: seaport on the northern coast of 4 FB WHEN The festival runs 451&5&34#63(
#PSEFBVY $"35"(&/"
Around 100,000 Colombia, 660 km (410 miles) from May to July )FMTJOLJ
NEED TO KNOW an intoxicating musical cocktail, a kaleidoscope of John Lee Hooker, Dave Brubeck, Dizzy Gillespie,
intermingling energies and styles set against a Muddy Waters and Ray Charles to an event he felt
LOCATION Montreal is in the
province of Quebec, in eastern vibrant urban backdrop. sure would wow the international stage. And from
Canada The Festival International de Jazz de Montréal – the very first festival in 1980, his magical laid-back
WHEN The festival takes "UMBOUJD to give the event its full name – lasts 11 days and formula has worked. The easy-going atmosphere
place at the end of June/ 0 DFBO
$"/"%"
beginning of July in a four- 11 nights. Around 750 concerts take place in that he creates encourages both musical discovery and
block site at the heart of
7BODPVWFS
time. Over half are outdoors and free. But there are revelry. It’s an environment in which global stars
downtown Montreal .0/53&"-
also countless impromptu gigs, so you can soak up are content to rub shoulders with up-and-coming
VISITORS PER YEAR 0UUBXB
More than 2.5 million people 64"
5PSPOUP the carnival atmosphere of Latin jazz, take in some local talent hoping for a springboard break.
descend on the city for the festival smouldering salsa, or follow the gentle strains of The festival brings Montreal’s traffic to a
acoustic folk in an underground bar. standstill as downtown becomes one huge
Arrive at the festival in time for the morning musical extravaganza. Midway through the festivities
Switzerland’s Montreux Jazz Festival claims to be sound-checks to claim your place for the comes the “Special Big Event” – now a Montreal
the biggest in the world – an assertion that doesn’t supporting acts at noon, then party on into the tradition. It’s a show of epic proportions – perhaps
quite stand up to scrutiny when you compare it wee small hours to an eclectic musical repertoire. a gig by Urban Sax, stellar guitarist Pat Metheny or
with the jazz festival in Montreal. Quebec’s full-on The summer celebrations and the city’s funky mix South African musician Johnny Clegg – and usually
musical jamboree sends pulsating rhythms of cafés, galleries, bistros and green spaces draw draws an audience of around 200,000.
coursing through downtown Montreal’s arterials. crowds of every age, every musical taste and from Away from the music, a popular art exhibition
Rapturous melodies permeate every bar, café, every corner of the globe, and unite them in a presents exclusive works by some of the artists who
basement joint and city square – from syncopated heady celebration of melody and rhythm. have performed here – Miles Davis, Diana Krall,
staccato trumpet solos and soul serenades to big- Founder Alain Simard demonstrates an Norah Jones and Tony Bennett, to name but a few.
band jazz, R&B classics and percussive bossa nova unshakable belief in Montreal’s musical pedigree. Surpassing the wildest dreams of even its
beats. This is the jazz festival that Guinness World He’s the man responsible for bringing such founder, the Montreal Jazz Festival is the world’s
Records logs as the largest on the planet. And it’s big-name acts as Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, ultimate jazz rendezvous.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET THE MONTREUX
JAZZ FESTIVAL? Getting There and Around is inexpensive – even at high-
Trudeau International Airport is end joints – compared to other
THE BUILD-UP Switzerland’s ground-breaking festival is an around 30 minutes by cab from global cities. Check out
downtown Montreal. Many of the Le Piment Rouge (www.
annual showcase of every imaginable style of music. It has placed
city’s streets become traffic-free lepimentrouge.com) for a
the quaint village of Montreux on the map since 1967, and is a for the festival. Getting from A flavour-packed gourmet thrill.
popular musical getaway for European festival-lovers. to B is a breeze – simply hop Where to Stay
aboard the Métro or make For excellent links to buses, the
THE LETDOWN It takes Swiss precision to organize one your journey by foot. Métro, bars, restaurants and
of the world’s largest music festivals and this super-slick Where to Eat venues, check in to Hotel Jazz
operation is oiled so perfectly it lacks the spontaneity that’s In terms of the number of (www.hoteljazzmontreal.com),
synonymous with raw jazz. A decade ago, the festival expanded restaurants per capita, Canada’s in the heart of the downtown
to become a three-week extravaganza including music from all gastronomic capital is second Latin Quarter (Quartier Latin).
ABOVE A turn-off for many hardcore jazz fans – the only to New York City in North Budget per Day for Two
continents, to the disapproval of some festival-goers who feel
Montreux festival’s recent focus on world music America. Gallic flourishes abound Around £100.
it has lost its focus. – a culinary legacy of the
country’s French colonial past. Daytime Temperature
GOING ANYWAY? For an up-close-and-personal Montreux experience, give the two main stages a miss Thousands of high-caliber cafés, A rather warm and sticky
in favour of the smaller Montreux Jazz Café and the cluster of tiny open-air venues. Even better, attend bistros and restaurants make 30°C (86°F) at festival time.
the intimate performances that take place on cruise-boats on the lake. good use of a huge variety of Website
fresh, top-quality produce. Food www.montrealjazzfest.com
70
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES
FORGET KO PHA
NGAN?
THE BUILD-UP In the early 1980s, travellers
started to arrive on the shores of Ko Pha Ngan
island, following a whispered rumour of all-
night raves on the silver sands. The rumour
turned into a scene, which went on to become a
phenomenon. Two decades later Ko Pha Ngan’s
full moon parties are up there with Ibiza on the
international party circuit.
Goa’s Full
GOING ANYWAY? Accommodation around Hat
of beach huts. The music starts up, dancers begin Rin fills up days before each full moon party, so
to swirl and the sound systems are set to throb till aim to arrive a few days early, or rent a moped and
Moon Parties
dawn. Fortunately, the beach is to hand for you to stay at one of the nicer, more secluded beaches
relax on the next day. on the north coast of the island. Hat Khuat and
The DJs at Goa’s full moon parties are masters Hat Khom are two of the old favourites.
vs Ko Pha Ngan of Goa trance, one of India’s greatest contributions
to the world of dance music. The genre can trace
its origins back to the early 1990s, when the trippy
For the ultimate old-school raves, dedicated
sounds of local DJs reached the ears of their big-
party-lovers make for India not Thailand name counterparts in Britain. But the trance
movement was simply building on the groundwork
NEED TO KNOW of the hippies who’d dropped in and blissed out in
Goa in the 1960s. Along the coast you’ll still see
LOCATION Goa is on the
Malabar Coast of India, south $)*/"
veterans from the original “Summer of Love” raving
of Mumbai 1",*45"/ with the crowds of young European, Israeli,
/&1"-
%FMIJ
WHEN Parties take place Russian, Japanese and Indian partygoers.
regularly on full moons from Finding a full moon party is largely a process of ABOVE Crammed on to the beach, hundreds of ravers at an
*/%*" ,PMLBUB
October to March, and at Christmas all-night full moon party on Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand
and New Year things go into overdrive .VNCBJ trial and error. The day is easy enough to predict,
VISITORS PER YEAR #BZPG of course, but you’ll have to talk to likely-looking
(0" #FOHBM
About 2 million, but most people "SBCJBO people on the beach to discover the actual
go to Goa for the beaches, not the 4FB #BOHBMPSF
beach parties location. Nine times out of ten, though, you’ll end
up immersed in a sea of pumping bass, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
somewhere around Anjuna or Chapora. The
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
You can’t announce a party on a billboard and secrecy is partly out of necessity – the local police Getting to Goa by air involves a Anjuna is the centre of the trance
expect it to be a real party. The best ones take periodically make raids on the parties in search of charter flight to Dabolim airport scene and the best place to get
place at secret locations. Invitations go out by drug-dealers and drug-takers. But for many of Goa’s or a 1-hour flight from Mumbai. information about upcoming
word of mouth, and everybody in the place has to partygoers, being underground is part of the By train the journey from Mumbai parties. Ravers also head for
be united in pursuit of the same bacchanalian goal. appeal. After all, how much fun is a beach party takes 6–12 hours or 14 hours by Vagator, Chapora and Arambol.
bus. Local buses and taxis run to One well-kept secret is Siolim
So it is with Goa’s famous full moon parties. You that has its own website? Anjuna and other resorts along House (www.siolimhouse.com),
won’t find listings for them in the entertainment the Malabar Coast. near Chapora, a glorious 300-
section of the Goan Herald. These are proper raves, Where to Eat year-old Portuguese mansion
in the old-school tradition. If your only experience Vendors selling chai (spiced tea), with a secluded pool. It’s well
of full moon parties is the touristy ones of omelettes, samosas and water worth the splurge.
Thailand’s Ko Pha Ngan, prepare for the real deal. set up camp on party nights. The Daytime Temperatures
resorts are packed with restaurants Oct: 31°C (88°F); Jan: 31°C
The venues for these hedonistic dance
serving global traveller food, as (88°F); Mar: 32°C (90°F)
extravaganzas are kept secret until the last second. well as Goa’s signature curry:
News of the next party filters along the Malabar Budget per Day for Two
vindaloo made with pork, wine
Coast, from Anjuna to Arambol, by phone, email vinegar and plenty of chilli. New Bank on £150, including
York-trained chef Saleem Agha accommodation at Siolim
and text message, moving from guest house to House, food and moped hire.
cooks up a treat at Sublime (tel.
Internet café to beach bar. Then, come nightfall, a
+91 982 248 4051), near the Website
convoy of mopeds and motorcycles sets out into flea market in Anjuna. www.goaindiatourism.org/
the steamy Indian night, to gather at a secluded ABOVE Hippies selling trinkets at the market in Anjuna, India
71
Asti Palio ABOVE A crush of spectators watching the race from behind
fences at the Siena palio
MAIN IMAGE The Space Needle and a Ferris wheel reflected in windows
at the EMP BELOW (left to right) Costumed performer at Bumbershoot;
Zimbabwean musician Oliver Mtukudzi playing at Bumbershoot
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET LOLLAPALOOZA? Getting There and Around Where to Stay
THE BUILD-UP Perry Farrell, lead singer of the rock band Travel from Seattle-Tacoma Many travellers consider an
International Airport requires a expensive room downtown in a
Jane’s Addiction, launched Lollapalooza in 1991 to celebrate
taxi ride into town, which takes major hotel with views of the
his band’s last tour and to carry the flag of alternative rock around 25 minutes. The only water and mountains. Conserve
music. The festival hailed a new rebellion against mainstream means of public transport in the resources and go boutique with
music and galvanized the burgeoning under-30 subculture. It city are buses and the historic the Ace Hotel (www.acehotel.
toured the USA until 1997, had a revival in 2003 and, since monorail that runs conveniently com/seattle) in Belltown,
2005, has taken place every year in Chicago’s Grant Park. between downtown’s main halfway between Pike Place
shopping district and the Space Market and the Seattle Center.
THE LETDOWN Now that Lollapalooza no longer tours, Needle, which is ground zero for Budget per Day for Two
ABOVE Crowds of festival-goers trying to get close to
fans have only one shot to attend, which means denser, more the main stage at Lollapalooza Bumbershoot. £200 including accommodation,
desperate crowds – the mosh pit will turn heads. Be prepared Where to Eat transport and food. Entry to the
for the often-scorching summer heat – temperatures during the festival have been known to soar to 40°C (104°F). You can find Seattle’s fresh seafood festival will cost an extra US$60
Remember that Chicago is an expensive city, so finding affordable accommodation will be tough. and Pan-Asian cuisine virtually per person for a three-day pass
anywhere. Or try Cyclops, a local purchased in advance, or US$25
bohemian favourite (www. per person for daily admission.
GOING ANYWAY? Get an early start and consult the festival map of Grant Park assiduously – not only for stage
cyclopsseattle.com), or the food Website
information, but also for details on public transport and suitable areas for down time and refreshments. Chicago vendors sprinkled liberally www.bumbershoot.org
is one of America’s gastronomic hotspots, so leave enough time to explore the city and its diverse food culture. throughout the festival space.
76
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES 44 MORE INTOXICATING FESTIVALS AND PARTIES
ABOVE Burning crosses setting the streets ablaze during the annual Bonfire Night parade in Lewes, UK
RIGHT Led by Hindu devotees, a train of camels on the way to the Camel Fair in Pushkar, India
BONFIRE NIGHT, LEWES, UK A walk down the steep, cobbled streets of Lewes on PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR, RAJASTHAN, INDIA Boasting over 400 temples, Pushkar is a
5 November is not for the fainthearted: the atmosphere of this costumed torchlit parade sacred place for Hindus, who believe that over the course of this five-day festival the
is raucous, and the air thick with smoke. The procession is accompanied by deafening gods pay a visit to the region and bless the devout. Each November, the still waters of
bangers, and burning barrels and crosses are tossed into the River Ouse. The festival the Pushkar Lake are disturbed by thousands of devotees who converge upon the spot,
commemorates the Gunpowder Plot of 1605, when Guy Fawkes failed in his attempt to submerging themselves and filling the air with the sound of their prayers. Their religious
blow up the Parliament in London. Elaborate effigies, known as “Guys”, are thrown onto a fervour is accompanied by a grand-scale camel fair, at which hundreds of animals are
vast bonfire, and the evening culminates in an impressive firework display. raced, bought and sold, and paraded in fine jewellery, bells and bangles.
LA FOLLE JOURNÉE DE NANTES, SPLASHY FEN, SOUTH AFRICA What CARNIVAL, BINCHE, BELGIUM Dressed in the Belgian national colours of red, yellow
FRANCE For five days in January, the began as a ramshackle folk festival is now and black, the character of Gille de Binche dominates this carnival. Wearing masks with
city of Nantes becomes classical music’s one of the country’s foremost musical spectacles and moustaches, and hats laden with ostrich feathers, festival-goers known
Woodstock. Drawing buffs and beginners events, attracting over 10,000 people as “Gilles” stomp away the winter gloom in wooden clogs at the town’s Grand Place, and
alike, each concert lasts 45 minutes, tickets over five days every Easter. It features a toss Seville oranges into an excitable crowd. This three-day festival, which takes place at
are reasonable, and different composers wide range of national bands as well as the end of February, dates back to the 16th century and attracts thousands of revellers,
and genres are featured each year. family-friendly sports and activities. who dance in the streets beneath a firework-filled sky to the sound of local brass bands.
CHRISTMAS MARKET, PRAGUE, RUSTLER’S VALLEY FESTIVAL, SOUTH IVREA ORANGE FESTIVAL, ITALY On
CZECH REPUBLIC A tall tree draped in AFRICA Set in the foothills of the Maluti Shrove Tuesday (Feb–Mar) Ivrea’s quiet
lights, against a Gothic backdrop, sets Mountains, amid verdant pasture, this streets fill with costumed revellers pelting
the scene for this most atmospheric of four-day Easter festival is a holistic, New each other with sweet-smelling oranges.
Christmas festivals. Each December the Age experience. Here you’ll find bands, This four-day carnival commemorates the
sound of carols fills the air, and the Old drumming and world music on the townsfolk’s 12th-century struggle against
Town Square and Wenceslas Square fill main stage, trance and dance tents, a a local tyrant. Those on foot represent the
with visitors, who stroll amid bright picturesque campsite and some delicious peasants; those on chariots the aristocracy.
wooden huts browsing traditional crafts, vegetarian food. The New Year’s Eve Traditional fagioli grassi (beans and pork)
trailing steam from cups of mulled wine. celebrations also draw crowds. is served to the participants.
CADIZ CARNIVAL, SPAIN At carnival ORURO CARNIVAL, BOLIVIA For three FÊTES DE MASQUES, PAYS DOGON,
time (end Feb–Mar), the narrow, twisting days in February, the thin, cold air of the MALI On a vast, arid escarpment in central
streets of this tranquil Moorish city are high-altitude mining town of Oruro Mali, six men in dramatic hand-painted
transformed for 10 days. Among the comes alive to the sound of hundreds masks dance vigourously before an
most popular musical performers are of marching bands, while dancers in enthusiastic crowd. These enactments are
chirigotas, whose lyrics offer a satirical elaborate costumes enact tales of their said to symbolize Dogon cosmology and
take on current events; comparsas, who Andean past. The festival culminates to help ward off evil spirits. Two big
show off more serious classical talent; outside the cathedral with a performance festivals, Sigui and Dama, take place every
and solo romanceros, who serenade of the diablada – a dance representing 60 and 12 years respectively, but dances
passers-by from stairwells. the struggle between Good and Evil. are performed throughout the year.
77
PARO TSECHU, BHUTAN Every March, monks in bright and often fearsome costumes BOI-BUMBA, PARINTINS, BRAZIL Even by Brazil’s ecstatic standards, the Boi-Bumbá of
perform a series of dances over five days to the sound of flutes, cymbals and trumpets, northeastern Brazil, held over three days in June, is a frenzied celebration. Retelling a
cheered on by Bhutanese families dressed in their finest traditional clothing. The festival local legend about the death and resurrection of an ox, the festival pits two rival samba
honours Guru Padmasambhava, a Buddhist teacher and guide, and the dances tell stories schools against one another in Parintins’ vast arena, the Bumbódromo, which holds nearly
from his life, depicting a host of gods and demons and the triumph of joy and religion 40,000 people. Every night the schools, divided into their rival colours of blue and red,
over evil. It all culminates on the final day with the unrolling, at dawn, of the elaborate try to outdance, outplay and outdress each other in a spectacular 3-hour display
silk Thangka, a vast religious scroll from which worshippers seek a blessing. complete with extravagant costumes, elaborate floats and a steamy, joyful atmosphere.
TOONIK TYME, IQALIT, CANADA As the ONAM, KERALA, INDIA Kerala is at its loveliest during the ten-day festival of Onam
Arctic winter recedes, this week-long festival (Aug–Sep), its trees brimming with fruit under warm sunshine. This is an inclusive,
in March celebrates the coming of spring. secular event that honours King Mahabali who, it is said, ruled over a period of happiness
The community gathers to fish, hunt and and prosperity in the region. It brings out all the spectacle of Keralan culture: courtyards
compete in snowmobile and dog-team are dressed with floral carpets, there are costumed dances and sports, and chanting
races, and evenings are spent eating and oarsmen steer a popular Snake Boat Race along the Pampa river. Onasadya, a nine-course
drinking to the sound of local music. feast served on banana leaves, showcases the region’s delicate and varied cuisine.
FIESTA DE SANTO TOMAS, WINTER FESTIVAL, QUEENSTOWN, ST. PAUL WINTER CARNIVAL, EASTER, KALYMNOS, GREECE Easter
CHICHICASTENANGO, GUATEMALA NEW ZEALAND Far from hibernating, MINNESOTA, USA St. Paul’s carnival was celebrations here are varied and elaborate,
Come December, the blazing colours of Queenstown greets its winter (Jun–Jul) born in January 1886, in defiance of an starting on Holy Friday with a candlelit
Chichicastenango market reach their with a ten-day jamboree attracting allegation made by a New York reporter procession that follows flower-decked
zenith. Villagers from the highlands pour 60,000 party-goers. It combines that the city in winter was “unfit for human “epitaphs”, symbolizing Christ’s tomb, to
into town, all in distinct traditional dress. eccentricities such as the Birdman and habitation”. An intricate ice castle is built, the cathedral for a celebratory Mass. On
Clouds of incense and deafening bangers Dog Derby with Mardi Gras parades, and each year a king and queen are Saturday a feast of lamb stuffed with rice
accompany a parade in honour of the fireworks, live music and comedy. The crowned and parade through the city. and liver is prepared and, at midnight,
patron saint, and plenty of drinking, party continues on the slopes with snow There are skiing and bobsledding contests, the church bells ring out and dynamite is
dancing and falling over is enjoyed by all. mountain-biking and night skiing. toboggan slides and snow sculptures. lit on the mountains behind the port.
CALLE OCHO LATINO FESTIVAL, DEAD RAT BALL, OSTEND, BELGIUM TET FESTIVAL, VIETNAM Tet celebrates
MIAMI, USA Every year in mid-March, Headdresses, 4-inch heels, feathers and Chinese New Year (late Jan), and is a time
Miami’s “Little Havana” district is given sequins: an unexpected find in a 1950s for Vietnamese families to get together
over to a huge street party celebrating red-brick casino in Ostend. This and feast. The streets glow pink with
Latino culture, music and dance. Stages burlesque festival was established by flowering peach trees – a symbol of new
on the streets showcase salsa, merengue, local artist James Ensor in the late 19th life and good fortune – and stalls sell
reggaeton and jazz, and tempting smells century after a visit to the Rat Mort sweets, kumquat bushes, fruit and flowers,
of tamales and arepas waft from sizzling Cabaret in Paris, France. Some 2,500 turning the city into a riot of colour. There
stalls. There are cook-offs, sporting events, visitors of all ages converge each March are fireworks and parades, and firecrackers
and a popular domino tournament. to dress up around an annual theme. are thrown to ward off evil forces.
78
FESTIVALS AND PARTIES
ABOVE Spectacular costumes add sparkle to Bridgetown’s streets at the annual Crop Over festival, Barbados
RIGHT Masked Pierrots, clad in satin, are a distinctive feature of the Carnival at Limoux, France
CROP OVER, BARBADOS Crop Over was originally a celebration of the successful LIMOUX CARNIVAL, FRANCE The dance of the Pierrot is graceful and slow. A masked
completion of the sugar harvest. Today, for almost two months each summer, the figure, dressed in baggy clothes and satin tights, he marches through the cold streets of
capital, Bridgetown, pulsates with the rhythm of calypso, folk music and dance. On the Limoux, bantering with spectators and scattering confetti, a band of musicians in his
spectacular East Coast Road, sweaty calypso practitioners compete with rival groups wake. This unusual festival, thought to date back to the Middle Ages, takes places over a
against a backdrop of crashing Atlantic surf, while spectators gather on the surrounding two-month period beginning in January, with the marching bands and costumed
hillsides with picnics, beer and rum. The festival culminates with the Grand Kadooment, characters taking over the town each weekend. On the final evening a straw dummy,
a joyful street carnival parade flaunting magnificent costumes and energetic dances. known as the “King of the Carnival”, is burned on a pyre in the main square.
FESTIVAL OF THE DHOW COUNTRIES, WIFE CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS, BUN BANG FAI, YASOTHON, THAILAND With an ear-splitting explosion, a rocket 4 m
STONE TOWN, ZANZIBAR In late June, FINLAND Every July, some 8,000 visitors (13 ft) long, packing several kilos of gunpowder, shoots from a bamboo launch into the
the evocative, spice-scented island of descend on Sonkajärvi, eastern Finland, clear blue sky. The sound is greeted by cheering and murmurs of approval from an
Zanzibar is the scene of a week-long to watch the town’s husbands navigate appreciative crowd. The “rocket festival”, held each May, has its origins in local mythology:
celebration of all things cultural, drawing an obstacle-course relay with their better the rural community believed that their far-flung offerings would be rewarded by the
film, music and theatre from countries half wrapped around them. Sensibly, the rain god, who would bless them with plenty of water for the upcoming rice harvest.
strung along dhow trading routes of old. men down plenty of beer throughout. The celebrations span three days and are accompanied by music, dancing and drinking.
CHEYENNE FRONTIER DAYS, LATITUDE, SOUTHWOLD, UK Once BURNING MAN, NEVADA, USA Black
WYOMING, USA Cheyenne’s ten-day described as “the festival for people who Rock Desert, with its cracked earth and
rodeo festival each July regards itself as don’t like festivals”, Latitude, held in July, searing heat, emphasizes the spirituality
“the daddy of ‘em all”. A celebration of the is environmentally conscious and attracts of the Burning Man experience. An air of
Old West, it sees Stetsons fly as young a rather well-heeled crowd. You’re as inclusion and self-reliance pervades it,
men battle to stay on bucking bulls for a likely to find yourself listening to a poetry and festival-goers are not so much
full 8 seconds, for prize money of over a reading as to a band. It features literature spectators as participants, encouraged to
million dollars. The town’s streets bustle and comedy as well as music, and the come together for a week (in Aug–Sep)
with visitors taking in the Grand Parade small, scenic site makes it pleasant simply to devise art installations, costumes and
and nightly musical performances. to wander and lap up the atmosphere. performances around a central theme.
GOLDEN SHEARS, MASTERTON, NEW MIMOSA FESTIVAL, HERCEG NOVI, PUNAKHA DOMCHOE, BHUTAN
ZEALAND The town of Masterton, host MONTENEGRO The gentle fragrance of Featuring war cries and fireworks, silk
to what it claims is the “world’s greatest mimosa wafts over Herceg Novi’s sunny skirts and resplendent swords, this three-
shearing competition”, greets visitors streets during this annual festival every day military festival takes place during
with a giant pair of golden shears. Each February. Floral floats fill the promenade the first month of Bhutan’s lunar year
February it draws hundreds of entrants and local horticulturists strive to outdo (Feb–Mar). A recreation of Bhutan’s
from North and South Island to take part one another with imaginative displays. 17th-century victory over Tibet, the final
in sheep-shearing and wool-handling There is local theatre, music and dance, battle is re-enacted with costumed
contests. Dating back to 1961, competition and the chance to go mimosa-picking pazaps (warriors), who perform in the
is fierce and winners become local heroes. along the lush banks of the riviera. courtyard of the majestic dzong (fortress).
79
CITRUS FESTIVAL, MENTON, FRANCE In late February each year this small town on GION MATSURI, KYOTO, JAPAN The highlight of the ancient, month-long Gion festival
the French Riviera celebrates all things citrus. Floats bearing immense constructions is Yamahoko-yoko, in which vast floats – some weighing more than 9 tonnes – are
made from oranges and lemons are paraded through the streets on Sundays, and paraded through the streets, adorned with 15th-century tapestries. Throughout July
elaborate fruity sculptures are assembled for all to see at the Biovès Gardens. During the the streets throng with festival-goers dressed in traditional summer kimonos and
evenings carnival bursts into action at the Moonlit Parade, with acrobats, costumed wooden shoes; delicious smells of yakitori (skewered chicken) and traditional battered
musicians and dancing filling the seafront promenade. The tradition dates back to the octopus waft from vendors’ stalls. The parade dates back to the year 869 when Kyoto
1920s, when the town was Europe’s leading supplier of lemons. fell victim to a terrible plague, and a procession was initiated to appease the gods.
EID, DAMASCUS, SYRIA To celebrate CARNIVAL, BASEL, SWITZERLAND It’s 4am on the Monday after Ash Wednesday
the end of Ramadan, the city’s maze-like (Feb–Mar), the city’s lights are switched off, and the party begins with a procession
medieval streets are strewn with ribbons, illuminated by huge, colourful lanterns. This is Fasnacht, an elaborate three-day festival dating
and locals dress in their finest clothes. back to the 14th century. Basel’s old town resonates with the sound of drums and piccolos,
Visits to family take up most of the day as musical troupes wend their way through the winding streets, their faces obscured by
but, gradually, the streets fill with stalls elaborate papier-mâché masks. It’s very much a local affair, with participants drawing on
and music, and fireworks light up the sky. topical stories to poke fun at local personalities and politicians with their satirical verse.
MUD FESTIVAL, BORYEONG, SOUTH CARNIVAL, GUALEGUAYCHÚ, OUD FESTIVAL, JERUSALEM, ISRAEL PUSHCART DERBY, DISCOVERY BAY,
KOREA Each July, Daecheon Beach and ARGENTINA Everybody’s heard of Rio, Named after the short-necked lute JAMAICA The humble pushcart, used
the figures partying along its sands are but few are familiar with the annual traditionally played across the Middle East, for transporting fruit and other wares, is
daubed black with mud. An atmosphere street party in Gualeguaychú, held over Oud, held in November, uses music to ubiquitous in Jamaica. It comes into its
of abandon pervades as tourists hurl ten successive Saturdays in January and reach beyond religious and political own each August, when pushcart owners
themselves gleefully down a mud slide February. An undiscovered joy, the town’s divisions to showcase the rich ethnic and compete in a frenetic derby, watched by
and take each other on in mud-wrestling festivities are authenticity incarnate, with social traditions that inspire music, poetry tens of thousands of spectators and
contests. The festival attracts over a million lithe footwork, skimpy costumes and and literature in Jerusalem today. Concerts accompanied by live music and marching
visitors, and has buoyed a local economy pulsating music aplenty, but no hordes feature modern and traditional music with bands. They are said to have inspired the
traditionally reliant on agriculture. of camera-wielding visitors. Bedouin, Flamenco and Sufi influences. creation of the national bobsleigh team.
VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL, PHUKET, TENERIFE CARNIVAL, SANTA CRUZ, PARRANDA, REMEDIOS, CUBA On
THAILAND Over this nine-day festival CANARY ISLANDS Tenerife’s February Christmas Eve, little colonial Remedios
(in Sept–Oct), you might spot entranced carnival is among the hardest to beat for explodes with pyrotechnics and a
men walking over hot coals, or a woman noise and sheer enthusiasm. The parade cacophony of cowbells, trumpets and
with her cheeks pierced by a long skewer. route is an exuberant river of shimmying drums, while dancing and floats crowd
Such acts, along with abstinence from costumes, bands and dancers; the its streets. The festival began when a local
meat and alcohol, are believed to offer Carnival Queen’s dress so heavy and priest, dismayed by poor attendance at
protection from evil. Stalls of vegetarian elaborate that it is affixed with wheels. Midnight Mass, sent children out with
food share the street with processions The event closes with fireworks and the whistles and tin cans to wake everyone
and fireworks in this colourful celebration. burning of a vast papier-mâché sardine. up and force them to church.
great journeys
Donkeys crossing a suspension bridge above the Kali Gandaki river, Annapurna region, Nepal (pp90–1)
82
GRE AT JOURNEYS
The Cordillera Apolobamba is a national protected stopover where trekkers can catch trout for their
NEED TO KNOW
area of Bolivia, established to conserve the natural supper barehanded in the Atumpampa river.
LOCATION The Cordillera resources and biodiversity of the region. Of the Although this 115-km (71-mile) trek can be
Apolobamba is in western
Bolivia, north of Lake Titicaca various trekking routes that traverse the range, the tackled in either direction, the south-to-north option
1&36
and near the Peruvian border $03%*--&3" most popular is a 5-day trek connecting the villages offers great views that improve daily and passes that
#3";*-
"10-0#".#"
VISITORS PER YEAR
-BLF
of Curva and Pelechuco, through Andean highlands increase in elevation, with the Sunchuli pass, the
Even the most popular trek in -B1B[
the area is undertaken by fewer
5JUJDBDB 4BOUB$SV[ where the Kallawayas, a group of traditional healers highest of the whole trek at 5,060 m (16,600 ft),
than 500 people every year 4VDSF who performed brain surgery 1,000 years ago and coming near the end of the journey. Soon after this
#0-*7*"
CLIMATE You’re in the tropics,
1"3"(6":
were the first in the world to use penicillin and you’ll come to the village of Pelechuco, which was
but at this elevation it’s chilly all year, quinine, still practise their healing craft and rituals. founded in 1560 by Jesuit missionaries and still relies
with sub-arctic conditions higher up $)*-& "3(&/5*/"
After leaving the picturesque hilltop village of on small-scale gold-mining as its economic base.
Curva, views of Akamani, the sacred mountain of While most guides treat Pelechuco as the end of
Once the largest nation on earth, the Inca Empire the Kallawayas, loom large. From here the elevation the trek, another hour on to Agua Blanca will take
stretched for 4,000 km (2,500 miles) along South of the trek stays almost entirely above 4,000 m you to the ruins of Huatara and a comfortable hostel
America’s Andean backbone. Its ancient highways, (13,125 ft) and the stunning mountain views are for the final night. Although the trek covers wild
many of which cross mountain passes over 5,000 m accompanied by beautiful waterfalls and glacial and remote terrain, the route is well marked and
(16,000 ft) high, were superbly successful in nurturing lakes. Domesticated alpacas and llamas graze the promoted in sufficient detail that it can be done
trade and communications throughout the far-flung high grasslands and sightings of wild vicuñas, independently. But for a small additional cost, you
empire. If you long to explore this ancient road viscachas and condors are expected. Elusive pumas can arrange to have a well-informed local guide
network without the crowds of the Inca Trail, then and spectacled bears still roam the most remote and an arriero (muleteer) to tend to the pack animals.
head to Bolivia’s Cordillera Apolobamba, which will regions of the Apolobamba range. The settlement Using these local guides, who operate under the
lead you across high terrain and into the remarkably at Jatunpampa, inhabited by three families and auspices of the park, also provides needed
unchanged world of today’s Inca descendants. their sheep, alpacas and horses, is a convenient employment and economic benefit to the isolated
communities of the Cordillera Apolobamba.
GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE The snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera Apolobamba
BELOW (left to right) The village of Curva shrouded in mist; indigenous
Kallawaya woman; vicuñas on a mountain slope, Cordillera Apolobamba
84
GRE AT JOURNEYS 4 MORE SOUTH AMERICAN TREKS TO RIVAL THE INCA TRAIL
Inca ruin at Samaipata, at the start of the Che Guevara Trail, Bolivia
Che Guevara
Trail
NEED TO KNOW
A challenging trekking route with a political twist, VISITORS PER YEAR be dazzled for much of the journey. This bright
-B1B[
10,000; this is Bolivia’s fastest-
the Che Guevara Trail cuts through subtropical growing tourism destination 0SVSP 4BOUB$SV[ and pristine landscape is interrupted only by one
4VDSF
valleys and rocky hills while retracing the footsteps CLIMATE Temperatures range or two rocky “islands” full of cacti, the occasional
from 20°C (68°F) on a dry day in 3!,!2 $% 595.)
of the revolutionary leader Che Guevara during blood-red flamingo or long-tailed chinchilla, a
summer to a bitterly cold low of 1"3"(6":
his final days. The route is generally considered to -25°C (-13°F) on winter nights $)*-&
haunting antique train graveyard, and weird and
"3(&/5*/"
start in the beautiful highland village of Samaipata, wonderful mirages that come and go in the
the site of an important Inca ruin, and ends in the distance. You might also see the odd miner
equally picturesque town of Vallegrande. The long Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni defies adequate description, panning the flats for salt, a centuries-old tradition
trail measures 150 km (93 miles), and most visitors although calling it a blinding, surreal expanse of that is still going strong today. The atmosphere
opt for a 4WD to cover the more difficult stretches. endless pure-white flatness that must be seen to here is considered by many scientists to be the
To make the most of your trip, you should allow be believed comes very close. This eerily silent purest on the planet, and the air is so dry and free
at least a week to complete the route and book and awe-inspiring salar (salt flat) is one of the from variation that the Salar de Uyuni is used as a
into one of the rustic campsites along the way. most otherworldly environments on earth, and calibration point for satellites far above the earth.
all that remains of an enormous inland sea that Although the traditional end-to-end trekking
evaporated thousands of years ago. Covering an route can be covered in one day by 4WD, the
Practical Information
area of about 11,000 sq km (4,250 sq miles), these majority of visitors prefer to span it out over three
Getting There The trailhead at Samaipata is reached by road from the city
of Santa Cruz, in Bolivia’s Santa Cruz province. All but a few experienced sun-baked plains hold enormous quantities of or four days to make the most of the region’s
trekkers require a 4WD to cover parts of this long trail. salt – 9 billion tonnes, in fact – and are home to wonders on their own two feet and at their own
When to Go The best time to visit the normally humid and hot central some of the most fantastic wildlife in South pace. Most drive to one of the several trail heads,
valleys is between April and September, when the temperatures are cooler America. And for those intrepid travellers who walk as much of the distance as they wish, and
and the rains are still a month or two away. want the full experience, there’s even a hotel here arrange for a pick-up a few miles from the other
Website www.boliviabella.com/ruta-del-che.html built entirely from blocks of salt. end. Watching the sun rise and set, tinting the
85
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Hikers in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, with a snowcapped mountain peak in
the background
The bright blue Nordenskjöld Lake in Torres del Paine National Park,
Patagonia, Chile
Cordillera
Torres del Paine
Blanca
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Torres del Paine 4BOUJBHP
Coastal Route 15
vs Route 66 ABOVE Traffic on Chicago’s Michigan Avenue, part of the
erstwhile Route 66
Think the fabled US Route 66 is the ultimate road trip? Think again: sun, sand and
endless stretches of coastal beauty make Mexico’s Coastal Route 15 a better choice FORGET ROUTE 66?
THE BUILD-UP Up until a few decades ago, the
famous Route 66, or “Main Street America” as
NEED TO KNOW passing through the city of Hermosillo before it was then known, cut across the mid-western
reaching the brilliant blue coast in Guaymas. and southwestern United States in a wide arc,
LOCATION Stretching
from the border town of
Making it this far is an adventure in itself, as you starting in Chicago and ending in Santa
/PHBMFT 64"
Nogales to Tepic, Route 15 cross paths with venomous Gila monsters, Monica, California. An entire popular culture
runs halfway down Mexico’s $0"45"- roadrunners and the occasional vulture circling grew up around this legendary route, and to
Pacific coast 3065& (VMGPG
overhead. This is the Wild West of legend, brought this day, it continues to be the best-known road
VISITORS PER YEAR Tens .FYJDP
.&9*$0 to life in front of your eyes, before it gives way to in the country.
of thousands, but few drive the
entire 1,000-km (600-mile) distance 5FQJD .FYJDP$JUZ the cooling sight of the Pacific Ocean glinting ahead.
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES THE LETDOWN There’s just one problem,
1BDJöD "DVQVMDP From here onwards, it’s mostly a coastal road,
Hot (26°C/79°F) and humid, but 0DFBO
and it’s a big one – Route 66 no longer exists.
moderated on the coast by the ocean the likes of which you will never forget. A hundred
It hasn’t for more than two decades. Parts of
or more kilometres brings you to the city of it are still around as state roads (not interstate
Mazatlán, the “Pearl of the Pacific”, with more than highways), but the iconic cross-country route
There are few places in the world where you can 20 km (12 miles) of uninterrupted beaches, one of has been renamed and chopped up into
drive for hours on end with the open expanse of the longest stretches of sand in the world. Quaint unrecognizable bits. In theory, yes, you can
the ocean on one side and everything from desert little fishing villages and plenty of classic Mexican follow the original trail, but it would not be
landscapes to tropical forests on the other. Of the scenery lie ahead before Route 15 veers inward the same thing.
handful of such routes that still remain, the little- again to the east and heads toward Tepic. But you
known coastal portion of Mexico’s Route 15 is one can continue south along the coast on Route 200 GOING ANYWAY? At least the memory of this
of the best anywhere. It’s a journey you can make and reach the resorts collectively known as the Big old route survives, and it’s online to boot.
Check out the wonderful “The Mother Road:
in as little as five days, or take six months to savour. Five. Live it up at Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Ixtapa,
Historic Route 66” website (www.historic66.
Along the way, you’ll see what’s left of old Mexico – Acapulco and Puerto Escondido – before finally
com), which even has step-by-step directions for
sadly, soon to be lost forever – and some memorable driving onto the border with Guatemala. retracing the former asphalt glory.
landscapes. The views are punctuated by tiny
seaside pueblos (houses) and colonial villages, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
endless fields of blue agave, prehistoric landscapes,
Toltec ruins and, further south, several of the Getting There and Around Where to Stay
You can either start this road trip in There are many places to stay
world’s most famous ocean resorts. Nogales and head south, or you along the route, but the best pick is
Heading south, the approach favoured by most, can pick up Route 200 from the Villa Bella (www.villabella-lacruz.
Route 15 begins in the interior border town of border with Guatemala and head com) in La Cruz de Huancaxtle. It
Nogales and plunges towards the Sea of Cortez, north along the Pacific Coast, isn’t the cheapest stop, but it has
taking in the wild Sonora Desert scenery and joining Route 15 at Tepic. Parts of everything a seaside villa should
the route run parallel to rail lines, have and nothing it shouldn’t.
but you definitely need your own
When to Go
set of wheels for this epic journey.
The Pacific stretch of Mexico
Where to Eat tends to be hot and humid
There are thousands of spots through the year, but many
along Route 15 where you can travellers prefer to make the
stop for a bite, from the tiniest pilgrimage in the high season,
taco stands to enormous five- from late November to early May.
star restaurants. By the time you
Budget per Day for Two
reach Guaymas, you deserve
something special. Stop at Los Allow at least £50, with
Barcos (corner of the Malecón occasional splurges of up to
Malpica and Calle 22; tel. +52 £110, especially if you opt to
622 222 7650) and treat yourself continue south from Tepic.
to what may be the first of many Website
seafood meals to come. www.visitmexico.com
ABOVE A view of the capital city of Sonora, Hermosillo
87
GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE Rocky outcrop jutting out into the ocean, Mazatlán
BELOW (left to right) Moonrise at sunset, near San Carlos Sonora Desert;
magnificent sweeping beach at Guaymas; cliff diver in Acapulco
88
GRE AT JOURNEYS 6 MORE DRIVES TO RIVAL ROUTE 66
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Pan-American Highway meandering through quilted wheat fields,
near Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
Annapurna
THE BUILD-UP This is the world’s highest peak
– Mount Everest, Sagarmatha, the roof of the
world – where mountaineering legends are
born. The base camp is the closest you can get
to the summit without full mountaineering
gear and there are dramatic views of the
GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE A stupa, or Buddhist shrine, in the Annapurna Sanctuary
BELOW (left to right) Terraced rice fields; children at Ghandruk village;
a hiker on a bamboo bridge crossing the Marsygandi river
GRE AT JOURNEYS
The Palace on Wheels
vs the Orient Express
The fabled Orient Express is now oriental in name only – book a berth on the Palace on Wheels instead,
and travel across the Indian desert state of Rajasthan on one of the world’s most inspirational train journeys
NEED TO KNOW taste of the style and opulence of the Raj era, and
of the sumptuous lifestyles enjoyed by Indian
ROUTE This railway tour from Delhi
travels through Rajasthan via Jaipur,
maharajas and British colonial bigwigs alike. The
$IBOEJHBSI
Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur, 1",*45"/ Palace on Wheels first entered service in 1982,
Bharatpur and Agra %FMIJ using the lavishly decorated coaches once owned
LENGTH AND TIME 1"-"$&0/
+BJTBMNFS 8)&&-4 #IBSBUQVS by Indian and colonial notables, including the
2,880 km (1,790 miles);
7 days +BJQVS "HSB former rulers of the princely states of Gujarat and
+PEIQVS
DAYTIME 4BXBJ.BEIPQVS Rajputana, the Nizam of Hyderabad and the British
TEMPERATURES $IJUUPSHBSI
6EBJQVS Viceroy of India. The old train was subsequently
Jan: 15°C (59°F); Apr & Jul: */%*"
30°C (87°F); Oct: 27°C (80°F) "INFEBCBE
replaced with new, fully modernized and air-
conditioned carriages in 1991, but much of the
ambience of the original remains, with luxurious
Railways are an integral part of the fabric of private cabins, a well-stocked bar, two dining cars
Indian life – from chuntering third-class local and devoted personal service from a group of ABOVE One of the most iconic buildings in the world, the Taj Mahal in
Agra, set on the banks of the Yamuna river
services with daredevil commuters hanging off highly trained retainers.
every available space, to the fast and efficient Starting from Delhi, the Palace on Wheels
modern expresses which connect the major cities. makes a seven-day tour of one of India’s most majestic Meherangarh Fort, one of the mightiest
There’s no better way to enjoy the slowly magical regions, travelling through the state of in India. The train then proceeds to Sawai
unwinding landscapes of the subcontinent than Rajasthan, with its iconic desert landscapes dotted Madhopur and the Ranthambhore National Park –
from a window seat aboard one of the country’s with magnificent forts, palaces and cities. The tour one of the best places on the planet to spot tigers
thousands of trains. begins with visits to three of the state’s finest cities: in the wild – and then to Chittorgarh, the site of
None of the trains, however, can surpass the Jaipur, the famous Pink City; the fabulous desert another iconic Indian fort. Then it’s on to the
legendary Palace on Wheels. It offers a memorable citadel of Jaisalmer; and Jodhpur, home to the romantic lakeside city of Udaipur, before heading
back north to the village of Bharatpur, site of the
Keoladeo Ghana National Park, one of the world’s
FORGET THE ORIENT finest bird sanctuaries. The best, however, is saved
EXPRESS? for the end of the tour, with the last stop being the
famous city of Agra, home of the unforgettable
THE BUILD-UP The most famous train in Europe, if not the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and nearby Fatehpur Sikri, all
world, the Orient Express has become synonymous with luxury, UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
romance and intrigue, immortalized in books and on film.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE LETDOWN The original Paris–Istanbul route was steadily
cut back over the years, and much-changed Orient Express made Getting There and Around When to Go
its final journey from Strasbourg to Vienna on 12 December From New Delhi airport, it’s a short Oct–Mar is the best time, as it is
2009. To recreate the original route, you’ll either have to put taxi ride to Safdarjung railway outside the monsoon period and
together a route combining four trains, or shell out a staggering station, from where the train before the weather gets too hot.
£6,560 per person to travel on the privately run Venice-Simplon departs. Budget for Two
Orient Express (which doesn’t, strictly speaking, have anything Where to Eat The 7-day tour starts at around
to do with the original at all). ABOVE Tourists boarding the original Orient Express The Palace on Wheels has two £3,700 based on two sharing and
in Salzburg, Austria dining cars which serve includes accommodation and food
GOING ANYWAY? Plan a journey on one of the Venice-Simplon international and Indian food. on the train as well as entrance
Orient Express trains. It still offers one of the most comfortable ways of travelling around Europe and Where to Stay fees specified in the itinerary.
provides services to eight major European destinations between March and November. There are 14 fully equipped Website
deluxe rooms in the train. www.palaceonwheels.net
94
GRE AT JOURNEYS 6 MORE TRAIN JOURNEYS TO RIVAL THE ORIENT EXPRESS
The Glacier Special Express travelling through the frozen winter Rovos Rail
landscape of Blitzingen village, Switzerland
The Canadian
NEED TO KNOW
The Glacier NEED TO KNOW
ROUTE Routes run across
Southern Africa
Express ROUTE This journey takes you
from Toronto to Vancouver LENGTH AND TIME
The train does not have a
#0548"/"
/".*#*"
LENGTH AND TIME 1SFUPSJB
4,400 km (2,740 miles); fixed route; 1–14 days
NEED TO KNOW along various routes
3 days $"/"%"
ROUTE This train journey takes you DAYTIME DAYTIME TEMPERATURES #MPFNGPOUFJO
-&405)0
(&3."/: &ENPOUPO 5)& Jan: 26°C (79°F);
TEMPERATURES %VSCBO
from Zermatt to St Moritz, '3"/$& $"/"%*"/ .POUSFBM
Switzerland Jan: 3°C (37°F); 7BODPVWFS
Apr: 23°C (73°F); 4065)"'3*$"
;àSJDI Apr: 9°C (48°F); 8JOOJQFH
0UUBXB
Jul: 17°C (63°F); $BQF5PXO
LENGTH AND 5PSPOUP Oct: 21°C (70°F)
48*5;&3- "/% "6453*" Jul: 17°C (63°F); 64"
TIME 290 km (180 $IVS
#FSO Oct: 10°C (50°F)
miles); 7 hours, 30 minutes %BWPT
"OEFSNBUU
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES
4U.PSJU[
Jan: 1°C (31°F); (FOFWB (-"$*&3 Billed as the world’s most luxurious railway, Rovos
Apr: 8°C (46°F); &913&44
;FSNBUU The longest railway journey in North America, Rail offers unforgettable trips through southern
Jul: 18°C (64°F); * 5"-:
Oct: 9°C (48°F) the Canadian journeys three times a week Africa from its base near Pretoria. The company
between Toronto and Vancouver via Sudbury operates two beautifully rebuilt classic trains,
Junction, Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Edmonton, Jasper featuring wood-panelled coaches and Edwardian
The most jaw-dropping train ride in Europe, the and Kamloops. The railway traverses the period decor. Facilities include sumptuous dining
Glacier Express travels across some of the windswept lake lands of northern Ontario as well cars and observation carriages, while the spacious
continent’s wildest and most beautiful mountain as the rolling western plains of the prairies before suites come with a private bathroom and lounge,
terrain. Billed as “the world’s slowest express”, the the most magnificent section of the route – the and 24-hour room service. Most itineraries feature
journey is an extraordinary feat of engineering – climb up into the craggy heights of the Canadian journeys around South Africa from Pretoria to
with 91 tunnels, 291 bridges and the highest Rockies – wrapping up its journey on British Durban or Cape Town, with stops at tourist
point being 2,033 m (6,668 ft) above sea level at Columbia’s Pacific Coast. Between Sudbury attractions and safari parks. The train’s route
the crest of the Oberalp Pass. You are afforded a Junction and Winnipeg, travellers wishing to get passes through magnificent landscapes, including
memorable spectacle as the tracks switchback totally off the beaten track can request a special the starkly beautiful Great Karoo. There are also
between mountain passes and Alpine valleys, stop at any point along the line which offers longer excursions to Namibia, taking in some
before ascending to Zermatt, beneath the outline unrivalled access to some of the most stunning amazing sights such as the Fish River Canyon,
of the majestic Matterhorn. Canadian wilderness. Botswana, Zimbabwe and Tanzania.
Practical Information
Train Schedule Departs four times daily in summer, once daily in winter. Practical Information Practical Information
When to Go The best time to visit is during the pleasantly temperate Train Schedule Three departures every week in each direction. Train Schedule No fixed schedule for departures.
months between May and October, although tourist attractions become When to Go The pleasantly warm summer months from June to When to Go October to May; it gets very busy during the peak holiday
very busy during the peak summer season in July and August. September are a good time to travel. months of December and January.
Website www.glacierexpress.ch Website www.viarail.ca Website www.rovos.com
95
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Passengers enjoying the dizzying panorama from the roof of El Nariz
del Diablo
One of the world’s longest train journeys, the Indian Pacific Railway,
crossing the scenic Blue Mountains
The Sunset Limited Amtrak train passing through wild and barren
The Devil’s Nose
Indian Pacific American terrain
(El Nariz del
Railway Sunset Limited Diablo)
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
One of the world’s longest train journeys, the Sunset Limited is the nearest thing to a The dramatic railway line between Riobamba and
Indian Pacific straddles Australia, running from transcontinental railway in the USA, currently Sibame is all that survives of the route which
Sydney on the east coast to Perth on the west via running from New Orleans to Los Angeles. Until formerly connected Quito, in the Ecuadorian
Broken Hill, Adelaide, Kalgoorlie and the remote 2005, the train ran from Orlando to Los Angeles, highlands, with Guayaquil on the coast. Dubbed
desert settlement of Cook. Starting from Sydney, and may do so again in the future. The journey “the world’s most difficult railway”, construction
the journey begins by crossing the eucalyptus- offers a fascinating snapshot of the continent’s of the line across the high Andean massif
clad heights of the Blue Mountains (see p178) contrasting landscapes, from the swampy presented almost insuperable challenges,
before descending into the great open spaces landscape of Lousiana to the vast expanses of particularly the near-vertical section of rock
of the Australian Outback. The journey is best Texan plains and the towering mountains of known as The Devil’s Nose (El Nariz del Diablo).
known for its fabled crossing of the treeless California. Students of engineering will enjoy the Engineers conquered the problem by using an
plains of the Nullabor Desert, between Kalgoorlie crossing, just outside New Orleans, of the fittingly ingenious system of zig-zagging lines, with trains
and Perth, which includes the world’s longest named Huey P. Long Bridge – the longest railroad alternately travelling backwards and forwards in
stretch of absolutely straight railway track: a bridge in the USA, 8 km (5 miles) in length – order to negotiate the switchback tracks. The line
staggering 478 km (297 miles) without a single which carries the train 41 m (135 ft) above the is now a popular attraction and visitors sit on the
bend or twist in the rails. great Mississippi River. roof to enjoy the stupendous Andean vistas.
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Pilgrimage to Rome
vs Camino de Santiago
The annual scramble across Europe to the shrine of Santiago in Spain has become so hectic that it’s surely time
to turn your boots toward the older charms of the Via Francigena, the ancient road to Rome
NEED TO KNOW Pilgrims have been heading to Rome since the leads you straight along the main streets of turreted
early days of the Christian church, following the San Gimignano (see pp124–5) and honey-hued
LOCATION Many pilgrims (&3."/:
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Devout pilgrims entering the Great Temple of Badrinath
vs Cruising the Nile people wanting to sell you goods or take you
sightseeing for a fee – what is known as
baksheesh. The water is dangerous and
Starkly beautiful Lake Nasser is a far more tranquil place than the Nile to see swimming should be avoided.
some of Egypt’s astonishing ancient monuments from the water GOING ANYWAY? The most memorable way to
experience the Nile is on cruise ships which
travel from Luxor to Aswan and back. Some of
NEED TO KNOW and move them in their entirety up to higher these also offer five-star luxury – select the best
ground, to save them from being covered by the according to your budget. You could take a
.FEJUFSSBOFBO
LOCATION Situated to the felucca, but it’s not as tranquil as on Lake Nasser.
south of Aswan, the lake stretches
4 FB rising waters of Lake Nasser.
over 500 km (300 miles) southwest 4VF[
While cruising flotilla-like with many other
to Abu Simbel and beyond $BJSP
4"6%*
boats on the Nile, you will glimpse temples among
VISITORS PER YEAR "3"#*"
the houses, shops and hotels of Luxor, and
There are fewer tourists in -VYPS
-*#:" &(:15 disembark to travel by coach to see Luxor’s other
this part of Egypt
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "TXBO sights. But nothing beats a quiet cruise on the
Jan: 17°C (63°F); Apr: 27°C (81°F); -",&/"44&3 open waters of Lake Nasser past temples looking
Jul: 32°C (90°F);
Oct: 27°C (81°F) 46%"/
much the same as they did when they were built.
The water of Lake Nasser has an attractive blue
hue that the Nile fails to achieve. While the Nile is
When you are gliding over the waters of Lake iconic, it is also home to some dangerous parasites
Nasser, sitting on the deck of a luxurious cruise and has become heavily silted over the years. Lake
ship or sailing on a traditional wooden felucca Nasser, however, reaches depths of around 183 m ABOVE A clutch of crowded boats moored close to each
other along the Nile
with its tall white sail catching the breeze, you feel (600 ft) in some places and is clear. Monuments
as though you’re in the middle of the ocean. One from ancient civilizations that could not be moved
of the world’s largest artificial lakes, Lake Nasser when the lake was created still lie beneath. It is a
was created when the Aswan Dam was built to pleasure to gaze over the lake and imagine what
regulate the waters of the Nile, and is in one of the treasures are submerged in its depths.
most remote regions of Egypt – only a handful of
fishermen and the occasional small tourist cruise PRACTICAL INFORMATION
ship or felucca can be seen on its waters.
Getting There and Around Hotel, a favourite of novelist
As you drift towards the shore, you can see the You can fly into Aswan with local Agatha Christie (www.sofitel.
honey-coloured sand dunes that stretch for miles carrier EgyptAir, or board an com; tel. +20 97 231 6000).
into the wilderness, to the Western Desert in one express train from Cairo or Luxor. Where to Stay
direction and Sudan to the south, inaccessible to Then, hire a felucca or take a Overlooking Lake Nasser, the
all but the most adventurous. Nearer the river, you cruise boat from the waterside. Nefertari Hotel is among the best
The other option is to fly from of the few hotels in Abu Simbel
may catch sight of local Bedouins tending the land Cairo or Aswan to Abu Simbel’s and within walking distance of
or their animals. You will see clusters of date palms small airfield, from where you the temples (tel. +20 97
with lush growth beneath them, and mud-brick can rent a boat. 340 0509).
houses where rural Egyptians still live. And you’ll Where to Eat When to Go
see a sight that nothing can prepare you for – the The cuisine of southern Egypt Visit Nov–May, but avoid
magnificent golden temples of Abu Simbel. depends heavily on fruit and mid-Feb–mid-Apr, when the
vegetables from the land and Khamsin, a strong desert
The Great Temple of Abu Simbel was built to fish from the lake. With Middle
honour the pharaoh Ramses II, while the smaller wind, can make your trip
Eastern and Mediterranean uncomfortable.
of the two was for his wife, Nefertari. Dating back influences, the food is delicious,
wholesome and healthy. There Budget per Day for Two
to the 13th century BC, these astonishing temples
are many restaurants in Aswan, Around £200 should be enough
were once carved into the cliffs along the Nile. to cover all expenses.
but if you want to get a feel of
They were of such significance that when the stepping back in time, head to Website
Aswan Dam was to be constructed, UNESCO the restaurant of the Old Cataract www.egypt.travel
stepped in to cut the temples from the cliffside
101
GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE Abu Simbel Temple on the shore of Lake Nasser
BELOW (left to right) The elegant Kertassi kiosk in the Kalabsha
Temple; Nubian jewellery vendors; feluccas on Lake Nasser
Less-Travelled
China
After a period of isolation, China’s vast lands and myriad ethnicities are opening up for
exploration, revealing attractions beyond its big-name imperial monuments
ABOVE Tourists stream along the Great Wall of China
NEED TO KNOW journey times and improving levels of comfort and FORGET CHINA’S
service. Japanese-style “bullet” trains already serve TOURIST TRAIL?
LOCATION The world’s 3644*"
fouth-largest country, China stretches
certain shorter inter-city routes, and are due to be
rolled out on longer trips over the next few years. THE BUILD-UP China claims several
from the Siberian border to tropical
Hainan Island, and from the East
.0/(0-*"
millennia of civilization and, while its rapidly
The standard China tourist route traditionally
China Sea to Central Asia. The #FJKJOH expanding cities hold some attractions, it’s the
capital city is Beijing 5JBOKJO encompasses the imperial palaces of Beijing and
$)*/" historic landmarks that draw visitors. Built to
POPULATION 4IBOHIBJ Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s terracotta warriors in the prevent Mongol raids on Beijing, the Great
Around 1.3 billion $IPOHRJOH
)BOH[IPV former capital, Xi’an. From there, it’s customary to Wall of China tops the “must see” list. The
LANGUAGES Mandarin, (VJZBOH (VBOH[IPV
head south for a boat journey along the Yangtze capital’s clutch of stellar sights includes the
Cantonese in the provinces of the )POH,POH
south, and numerous dialects river, or to visit the town of Lijiang, a UNESCO World Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Summer
Heritage Site in the alpine terrain of Yunnan province. Palace and Tiananmen Square. Beyond
A popular “last stop” is China’s capital of hedonism: Beijing, the famed Terracotta Warriors of
Over a period of 30 years, China has undergone a Shanghai, where the legacy of early 20th-century Xi’an, the Three Gorges section of the Yangtze
remarkable transformation: from isolated Communist foreign domination clashes spectacularly with the river, and the buzzy brashness of Shanghai
state at the death of Chairman Mao in 1976, to country’s self-confident sense of futurism. all provide an insight into the country’s
fascinating culture, history and landscape.
Olympic host nation and impending global In recent years, getting off the established tourist
superpower today. Its appeal as a tourist destination trail in China has become much easier. Two of its
THE LETDOWN Tours in China are usually
is growing, as is the list of sites accessible to visitors. largest and most historically significant cities, led in large groups led by a guide wearing a
Regions little known to anyone but the locals are Guangzhou and Chongqing, are investing heavily microphone. As a result, the major stops on
following the lead of Beijing and Shanghai, and to attract more visitors. The ancient gardens and the tourist trail are frequently crowded and
beginning to let foreign travellers into their secrets. canals of Suzhou are being restored and improved to unnecessarily noisy. The Chinese state also has
Known locally as Zhongguo, or Middle Kingdom, entice day-trippers from Shanghai. And a visit to the very defined views about how China is
China is so vast and geographically diverse that it remote province of Guizhou, in southwest China, is portrayed to foreigners, and “information
appears more like a continent than a country. First- particularly rewarding, affording a fascinating control” is most evident at major attractions.
time visitors face a standard conundrum: “Where do insight into the culture and traditions of the ethnic
I begin?” Most travellers arrive through one of three Miao people, whose picturesque villages dot the DOING IT ANYWAY? While the guides are
expert at reeling off official dates and figures,
gateways: Hong Kong in the south; Shanghai in the lower reaches of the fertile alpine countryside.
they rarely volunteer much in the way of
east; or the capital, Beijing, in the north. Each city is
context. Don’t be afraid to ask polite
multi-layered, with its own distinctive culture, cuisine questions. Doing some research yourself can
and nightlife as well as plentiful sights through which PRACTICAL INFORMATION
also help to ensure you’re in a position to form
the China of the past, present and future comes alive. Entry Requirements high-speed inter-city “bullet” an objective opinion.
Nevertheless, these cities represent only a part of this Visitors to China must obtain a trains. See www.travelchina
vast country’s multifaceted appeal. visa in their home country in guide.com/china-trains
Planning a more extensive trip will involve advance of their trip. It is not Road Travel
travelling large distances. Fortunately, China’s possible to get a visa on arrival.
China has an extensive network
transport system is improving almost daily. Massive When to Go of inter-city coaches, but the
Spring and autumn usually offer distances are vast, journeys long
investment in air and rail travel is speeding up
the most pleasant temperatures. and levels of comfort low. Visitors
Air Travel who wish to drive themselves
China’s gateway cities (Beijing, must obtain a Chinese licence –
Hong Kong and Shanghai) are but be warned, the rules of the
served by international airlines. road applied in many countries
The country also has a good are largely absent in China.
network of domestic flights, with
Climate
frequent daily flights to and from
all the major cities. The website Temperatures vary considerably,
www.ctrip.com is a useful from tropical areas in the south
resource for bookings. to desert in the west, and long
frozen winters in the north. Most
Train Travel
Chinese train travel is being areas experience hot, rainy
revolutionized by ongoing summers and cold, dry winters.
investment in new tracks and Website
the gradual introduction of www.travelchinaguide.com
ABOVE Sculptures carved from the hillside at Dazu, west of Chongqing
103
GRE AT JOURNEYS
ABOVE The Gothic-style Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart, Guangzhou
LEFT Traditional boats on the narrow, ancient waterways in Suzhou
Guangzhou
Formerly known as Canton, the capital of China’s
southern manufacturing heartland attracts plenty
of business travellers, but is largely overlooked by
tourists. While less dramatic than Beijing and
Shanghai in an aesthetic sense, Guangzhou is
nonetheless an intriguing city. Conscious of its
forthcoming star turn as host of the Asian Games
in 2010, it is undergoing a massive urban facelift.
New structures include China’s tallest building, the
610-m (2,000-ft) Guangzhou New Television Tower;
a futuristic opera house designed by Zaha Hadid;
and a Beijing Olympics-style “Water Cube” aquatics
arena. Located on China’s strategic southern coast
and spliced by the Pearl River, Guangzhou was for
a long time China’s sole maritime connection with
the outside world. In the late 19th century, it
became a foreign treaty port. Shamian Island, in
the city’s Liwan district, boasts a rich architectural
legacy from that period. Neo-Classical banks,
mansions, consulates and churches were
constructed amid the tropical greenery, and
fine granite buildings line the old waterfront
Bund, which is reminiscent of its namesake in
Shanghai. The impressive Gothic-style Catholic
Church of the Sacred Heart, completed in 1888
under the Emperor Guangxu, was modelled on
the cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. Guangzhou’s
other significant draw-card is its sublime
Cantonese cuisine, China’s most cherished
culinary genre. According to proud locals, this
is the place to feast on the Middle Kingdom’s
finest dim sum and seafood.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around Domestic and some international airlines serve
Guangzhou airport (www.guangzhouairportonline.com), which is 28 km
(17 miles) from the city centre. Public transport within the city is good, with
a subway, buses, trams and water buses.
Where to Eat Experience authentic Cantonese cuisine at Panxi Restaurant
(151 Longjin Xi Lu, Tianhe District; tel. +86 20 8181 5718), which serves fine
seafood in a classical garden setting.
Where to Stay The Grand Palace Hotel Guangzhou (www.grandpalace-hotel.
com), in the heart of the financial district, has smartly furnished rooms, and
more character than many of the city’s business-focused hotels.
When to Go April–May and October are the most pleasant periods to visit,
being less hot and sticky than the summer months.
Budget per Day for Two £80–100
104
GRE AT JOURNEYS
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Elaborate traditional dress worn by Miao villagers, Guizhou province
Guizhou
Guizhou is one of China’s poorest regions and
remains relatively unvisited by foreign travellers. It
is, however, stunningly beautiful. Nicknamed the
“Switzerland of China”, its jagged alpine peaks –
clothed in pine forests, fruit trees, tea plantations
and intricate agricultural terracing – are lusciously
green in summer and decorously snow-capped in
winter. Travelling here isn’t easy: infrastructure is
basic and a good phrase book is essential; but the
highland landscapes, colourful Miao costumes
worn by villagers, and delicious local cuisine give a
real sense of unexplored China. Heading east from
the provincial capital of Guiyang is particularly
rewarding. In a deep valley below Thunder God
Mountain lies Xijiang, an ethnic Miao village known
as the Village of One Thousand Homes, where
visitors can stay with local families in traditional
TOP The imposing Catholic cathedral of Xi Kai, Tianjin ABOVE Eclectic wares for sale on Tianjin’s market street, Shenyang Lu two-floored wooden lodges built into the hillside.
From here, numerous hiking trails lead over the
weekends, an antiques street market on Shenyang hills and into picturesque adjacent valleys where
Tianjin Lu parades an eclectic assortment of paintings, agricultural communities adhere to time-honoured
clocks, Chinese musical instruments and Mao-era principles and crop-pickers carry large baskets of
Known affectionately as the “Shanghai of the North”, memorabilia. Tianjin is also revered for its steamed fresh herbs and vegetables on thick bamboo poles.
Tianjin has much in common with its more famous dumplings, and no trip here would be complete The hills are also a rich source of precious metals
east coast cousin: similar historic architecture, a without a visit to the Goubuli Dumpling Restaurant. and minerals, and the local female headdresses
trading and shipping history, and an urban layout and jewellery are made from high-grade silver.
curved around a broad river. One of China’s largest
ports, the city is bisected by the Hai river, and tour PRACTICAL INFORMATION
boats glide along its waters offering fine views of Getting There and Around The CRH bullet train travels to/from Beijing South PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the skyline. Tianjin’s main attraction, however, is the Station in 27 minutes, making Tianjin an easy day trip from the capital. Getting There Guiyang, capital of Guizhou Province, has an airport with
Tianjin Binhai Airport (13 km/8 miles from the city centre) is well served by flights to/from all major Chinese cities. From the airport, catch a bus to the
varied architectural legacy of its 19th-century domestic airlines. The city has an excellent public transport system, including town of Kaili (3 hrs), and then to another Xijiang (3–4 hrs), or bargain hard
construction boom. Its Italian concession is graced a subway, light railway and city buses. for a taxi to take you all the way to Xijiang (5–6 hrs).
by Tuscan-style villas, while Jiefang Bei Lu, the Where to Eat The Goubuli Dumpling Restaurant (www.tjgoubuli.com) has Where to Eat Xijiang’s cafes serve hot Guizhounese mutton noodles and
avenue which linked the French and British been serving Tianjin’s popular steamed buns since 1848. spicy stews made from fresh vegetables, and powerful warmed rice wine.
concessions, is lined with an impressive array of Where to Stay Built in 1863, the colonial New World Astor Hotel (33 Taier Where to Stay Xijiang Li Family Inn (tel. +86 855 334 8084 – Chinese only)
grand former banking headquarters and municipal Zhuang Road, tel. +86 22 2331 1688) is one of the city’s oldest hotels. has no formal address, but ask for the “Li Jia Jiudian” in the village and you
buildings. There are also some fine churches, When to Go Spring (Apr–May) and autumn (Sep–Oct) have the most will be pointed in the right direction.
notably Xi Kai Cathedral, based on the church of pleasant temperatures. When to Go Spring (Apr–May) and autumn (Sep–Oct) offer the best weather.
Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille, France. At Budget per Day for Two £80–90 Budget per Day for Two £30–40
106
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Less-Travelled
India
The magic ofIndia, this most fascinating and colourful of countries, only begins with icons such as the Taj Mahal;
a less conventional tour will reveal wonders of nature, artistry and humanity in every corner of every state
NEED TO KNOW the world-famous shrines at Khajuraho or the themselves, even the country’s “lesser” attractions
ghats of Varanasi. All spectacular and unmissable, are often every bit as fine as more-vaunted tourist
LOCATION India is the largest
country in South Asia, and has
$)*/" but also strangely one-dimensional. destinations. You could start in the former colonial
(BOHPUSJ The trouble with the great tourist attractions capital, Kolkata, then venture northeast to the wild,
borders with Pakistan, China, 1",*45"/
%FMIJ ,B[JSBOHB
Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and /&1"-
of India is that they’re just that. Visiting the Taj or peaceful national park at Kaziranga – every bit as
4IFLIBXBUJ
Burma. Its capital city is Delhi 0SDIIB
the Varanasi ghats, you’ll be surrounded by fellow rewarding as the famous Ranthambore. From there,
POPULATION 1.1 billion */%*" ,PMLBUB
GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu
BELOW (left to right) Intricate frescoes in a palace at Shekhawati;
lively flower market, Kolkata; preparing offerings at a shrine
108
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Gangotri
Rickshaw driver waiting for fares outside the Roxy cinema, Kolkata
Kaziranga
High in the Himalayas in the state of Uttarakhand,
Kolkata National Park the small town of Gangotri sits at the heart of the
sacred region of Garhwal. One of the most
(Calcutta) Sprawling along the south bank of the majestic physically beautiful and spiritually important
Brahmaputra river, in the remote northeastern areas in northern India, Garhwal is revered as the
Few cities suffer from as bad – and unjustified – state of Assam, lies the Kaziranga National Park. source of both the Ganges and Yamuna, India’s
an image problem as Kolkata. Its reputation has Although foreign visitors remain few and far two mightiest rivers. Gangotri is traditionally
plagued it ever since 1756, when its unfortunate between, the park is one of India’s most regarded as the spiritual source of the Ganges,
European residents were imprisoned in the spectacular wildlife destinations. Its combination and its small but vibrant temple attracts a steady
notorious “Black Hole” by the Nawab of Bengal’s of swamps and grasslands makes it the ideal stream of pilgrims and colourfully attired sadhus
troops. Despite such setbacks, Kolkata can habitat for elephants, deer, wild buffalos and (holy men), who mingle with the few western
plausibly claim, in its own rather grubby way, to boar, and a host of smaller creatures, as well as a tourists and trekkers who make it this far into the
be the most charismatic city in India. It is without considerable number of somewhat elusive tigers. mountains. Much of the town’s appeal is drawn
doubt among its most cultured, boasting a It also attracts a wonderful range of birdlife, from its magnificent setting. The surrounding
vibrant literary, arts and cinema scene which has particularly during the winter migration months. countryside offers beautiful walks through deodar
produced such world-famous luminaries as the Above all, though, the park is famous as the cedar forests, with dramatic views of snow-
Nobel Laureate writer Tagore and the filmmaker homeland of the great Indian one-horned rhino. capped peaks. Two of the most rewarding trails
Satyajit Ray. As the former capital of British India, Numbering around 1,800, the rhinos here make are those that lead to the spectacular (though
it is also a fascinating monument to the pretensions up two-thirds of the world’s surviving population, steadily retreating) Gangotri Glacier and the high-
of the Raj, with a fine array of colonial-era relics and sightings are virtually guaranteed. You can altitude oasis of Chirbasa. There are also longer
ranging from the superbly bombastic Victoria explore the park by jeep, but the favoured hiking routes leading deeper into the mountains,
Memorial to the vast Howrah Bridge. For many, method for rhino-spotting is to ride by elephant, including an overnight trek to the ice-cave of
the city’s greatest pride may be the vast Eden allowing you to approach much closer than you Gaumukh (“Cow’s Mouth”), the official source of
Gardens cricket stadium, the national shrine to would be able to in a vehicle – a unique and the Ganges, which is best visited at sunrise.
India’s number-one sporting obsession. memorable twist on the traditional Indian safari.
Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information Getting There and Around Gangotri is beautifully remote and the journey
Getting There and Around Kolkata airport is served by many international Getting There and Around The park is around 220 km (135 miles) east of requires several changes. Travel by air to Delhi, then by bus 225 km
airlines. There are also direct flights from most major cities in India. the city of Guwahati, in the state of Assam, which can be reached by plane (140 miles) to Rishikesh, in Uttarakhand. You can take a further bus, or
Where to Eat Head to 6 Ballygunge Place (tel. +91 33 2460 3922) for from many parts of India, or by train from Kolkata (Calcutta). hire a jeep, to travel the last 250 km (155 miles) to Gangotri.
traditional Bengali food at its finest. Where to Stay and Eat Bon Habi Jungle Resort (www.bonhabiresort.com) Where to Stay and Eat Accommodation in Gangotri is very limited, but the
Where to Stay The Victorian Oberoi Grand (www.oberoihotels.com) is one offers comfortable rooms and friendly service in a forest setting close to GMVN Tourist Bungalow (www.gmvnl.com) is a comfortable place both to
of Kolkata’s landmark hotels, offering a full range of five-star facilities. the park. Its restaurant serves an excellent range of international dishes. stay and to eat.
When to Go Between October and March. When to Go The park is open between November and early April. When to Go Between May and October.
Budget per Day for Two £250 Budget per Day for Two £100 including park entrance fees. Budget per Day for Two £25
109
GRE AT JOURNEYS
Royal cenotaphs on the banks of the Betwa river, Orchha
Painted ceilings and carved pillars in Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple
Orchha
Historic murals in one of Shekhawati’s extravagant mansions
Madurai
Hidden away in peaceful wooded countryside in
Shekhawati the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, the Located in the far southern state of Tamil Nadu,
abandoned city of Orchha is one of the country’s Madurai is one of India’s oldest and most
Just a few hours’ drive from Jaipur and other most atmospheric attractions. Capital of the local characterful cities, offering a heady taste of the
Rajasthani tourist hotspots, the magical region of Bundela rulers for over 200 years, the city was subcontinent at its idiosyncratic and unspoilt
Shekhawati offers all the attractions of its more founded by Raja Rudra Pratap, but his untimely best. The city is dominated by the enormous
famous neighbours, with a fraction of the visitors. death in 1531 (while allegedly trying to rescue a Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple, one of the most
In the latter days of the Raj this was one of the cow from the claws of a tiger) prevented him from spectacular in the country. Its massive towers,
richest regions in India, thanks to enterprising completing his grand designs. His successors took alive with a riot of colourful statuary, have a
local traders who made vast fortunes in places up the challenge, adding embellishments until powerful presence, their thousands of many-
like Bombay and Calcutta, and sent the profits Mughal and Maratha attacks forced them to headed gods and goddesses, splay-toothed
back to Shekhawati’s dusty little towns. Their abandon the city in the 18th century. Most of its demons, lions, bulls and guardian figures keeping
riches funded the construction of hundreds of magnificent buildings have lain empty ever since. permanent watch over the city streets. The
extravagant havelis (mansions), each flaunting Many survive in remarkably good condition – a interior reveals a virtual city-within-a-city: a
elaborate façades and flamboyant painted fascinating tangle of temples, palaces, havelis and fascinating labyrinth of shrines, bathing tanks,
exteriors. Though some have been restored, most cenotaphs. Among the highlights are a pair of courtyards and columned halls, thronged day
are now falling into slow decay, an atmospheric sumptous palaces: the Raj Mahal, adorned by rich and night with pilgrims who come here to pay
memorial to the wealth and fashions of a past murals, and the Jahangir Mahal, built as a present homage to Shiva and his wife, the triple-breasted
era. Many of the havelis are also notable for their to welcome the great Mughal emperor Jahangir, goddess Minakshi. Outside, the narrow, colourful
remarkable murals, their walls covered in a quirky its fanciful roofline topped with dozens of domes streets of old Madurai offer an unforgettable taste
array of eclectic paintings depicting traditional and cupolas. Nearby soar the towers of the great of southern Indian life, dense with crowds, cows,
religious subjects alongside the latest European Chaturbhuj temple, while a stately line of 14 royal and weaving rickshaws, all ploughing their way
fashions and inventions – anything from cenotaphs, constructed for successive rulers of through the city amidst a cacophony of traffic
representations of Krishna to images of new- the city, stand imposingly alongside the banks of horns and temple bells.
fangled railways and hot-air balloons. the tranquil Betwa river.
Practical Information
Practical Information Practical Information Getting There and Around The main gateway is Chennai, in Madras,
Getting There and Around Travel by air or rail to Jaipur, from where there is Getting There and Around Travel by train from Delhi to the town of Jhansi. 445 km (275 miles) away. From here there are daily flights to Madurai
a good bus service to Shekhawati, 150 km (95 miles) away. There are also From here local buses make the 25-km (16-mile) journey to Orchha. as well as direct train services.
direct train services to Shekhawati from Delhi, 250 km (155 miles) away. Where to Eat The restaurant in the Sheesh Mahal hotel (tel. +91 7680 Where to Eat The excellent, inexpensive banana-leaf thalis at Anna
Where to Stay and Eat Among the nicest options is Apani Dhani (www. 252624), set in Orchha’s old fort, is particularly atmospheric. Meenakshi (West Perumal Maistry Street) are not to be missed.
apanidhani.com), a gorgeous, eco-friendly rural retreat in the town of Where to Stay Try Amar Mahal (www.amarmahal.com), an elegant, Where to Stay A good choice is the Gateway Hotel (www.tajhotels.com),
Nawalgarh, offering well-equipped rooms and delicious vegetarian cuisine. Mughal-style resort set amid spacious gardens. offering slick five-star service in a beautifully converted colonial mansion.
When to Go Between October and March. When to Go Between November and February. When to Go Between January and March.
Budget per Day for Two £60 Budget per Day for Two £50 Budget per Day for Two £125
110
GRE AT JOURNEYS
vs the Amalfi Coast resorts such as Positano and arty Ravello are
aimed at the millionaire set. The few public
beaches are cramped and pebbly, so consider
shelling out for a private deckchair.
Typically Mediterranean, Corsica’s northwest coast, with its unique savage beauty, is more
relaxing than Italy’s traffic-ridden Amalfi Coast where coach parties dominate GOING ANYWAY? Try to avoid late spring to
mid-summer. In winter, many hotels slash
prices. Plan to arrive by train at either Salerno or
Sorrento, and continue your journey by public
NEED TO KNOW truckloads of tourists are common and long-term bus or use the private ferries that link villages.
habitation has translated into urbanization. Choosing accommodation and eateries off the
LOCATION The journey
1JOP Along the way, a host of highlights offer seafront will help keep budgets manageable.
runs down the northwest .FEJUFSSBOFBO
coast of Corsica, France 4 FB ample excuse for a rest from driving. You begin
#BTUJB
LENGTH OF ROUTE $BMWJ the journey at the small but bustling port of Calvi,
50 km (31 miles) occupying a picturesque promontory with a
DAYTIME $BSHÒTF
$PSTJDB
TEMPERATURES
trademark citadel. Then, once out on the D81, if
Jan: 13°C (55°F); "KBDDJP you turn inland from Galéria village, you’ll see the
5Z S S IF OJ BO
Apr: 17°C (63°F); 4 FB crystal-clear waters of the Fango river and its
Jul: 20°C (68°F);
Oct: 26°C (79°F) #POJGBDJP bright-red porphyry rock gorge, spanned by the
elegant Genoese bridge (Ponte Vecchiu).
The Bocca a Croce Pass demands a halt for the
So much stunning natural beauty is concentrated sweeping views it affords over the rugged shores ABOVE Coaches squeezing past each other on the narrow
roads around the Amalfi Coast
in this part of northwestern Corsica that the long of the Scandola headland reserve. Close by, a path
stretches of dizzy cliff scenery will elicit “oohs” and drops through Mediterranean bush to the fishing
“aahs” with every blind corner you turn on the hair- hamlet of Girolata and a sheltered beach, where a
raising road through the rugged mountainsides. seafood lunch or swim can be enjoyed.
On the wild coast, the route is 50 km (31 miles) Porto, a tiny clutch of hotels in an inlet, is
from Calvi to Cargèse as the crow flies, but you’ll another recommended stopover. Inland, the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
clock up at least 112 km (70 miles) by driving along photogenic hamlet of Ota has a cluster of traditional
the winding road. All around are slopes smothered stone houses above the cool Spelunca Gorge. Getting There and Around Where to Stay
The closest airport is Calvi’s Porto’s Hotel Monterosso is on
with aromatic maquis shrubs whose scents waft on Next comes this coast’s absolute highlight, Sainte Catherine, 8 km (5 miles) the waterfront, with rooms and
the sea breeze. There is no evidence of crowds, in Les Calanche, a weird wonderland of eroded pink from town with scheduled flights terraces overlooking the
glaring contrast to the Amalfi Coast, where granite, called “a haunting nightmarish menagerie” via France. There are also charter wonderful gulf (www.hotel-
by French novelist Guy de Maupassant. Immersed flights to and from the UK monterosso.com).
in sweet-smelling pine forest and a UNESCO World between Apr–Oct. From Calvi, When to Go
arrange a rental car to explore Spring is divine with the
Heritage Site, Les Calanche can be visited on foot the coastal road. Buses run to
thanks to many marked paths leading off the road. aromatic scent of Mediterranean
Porto May–Sep. If you wish to
plants, but the sea is still a trifle
Nearby, the beautifully placed village of Piana take your own vehicle, then a car
cool. The onset of summer heat
makes an excellent base. Sandy beaches beckon, ferry from the mainland port of
– and perfect bathing conditions
Nice or Marseille is feasible, but
as does the divine Capo Rosso headland, its old – is offset by cool breezes on the
book ahead for the high season.
watchtower a lookout for marauding pirates, west coast, though the number
Where to Eat of visitors is highest then.
long-gone raiders of the Mediterranean coast. Just outside Porto on the Calvi
This journey can also be a memorable Budget per Day for Two
road, Restaurant Le Porto is
adventure for hikers, who can enjoy the vistas on reasonably priced, and you can £130 including accommodation
enjoy your meal on a lovely and food.
the long-distance walking path, Mare e Monti. The
terrace (www.hotel-leporto. Website
route begins at Calenzana outside Calvi, and ends
com; tel. +33 4 95 26 11 20). www.corsica.net
in Cargèse in 10 days. There are stopovers at gîtes
ABOVE Genoese arched bridge in the Spelunca Gorge near Ota, Corsica d’étape, or walkers’ hostels.
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GRE AT JOURNEYS
MAIN IMAGE A car driving along the winding route through
towering Les Calanche BELOW (left to right) The port of Calvi
on a fortified promontory; boats moored in the harbour at Porto
ABOVE A group of trekkers crossing the partly snow-covered lava fields of Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula, with
the smoking Mutnovsky volcano in the distance
KAMCHATKA PENINSULA TREK, RUSSIA The landscape of Kamchatka is bleak and WAINWRIGHT’S COAST-TO-COAST FRANKINCENSE TRAIL, OMAN This trail
powerful, with towering volcanoes throwing up plumes of ash and smoke, and surreal WALK, UK Alfred Wainwright described was carved out by camel caravans leaving
terrain that has been twisted over time by fierce lava flows. A trek through this region of this route as “the grandest territory in the Salalah over 7,000 years ago in search of
contrasts will take you over rolling pasture land, alpine tundra, glittering glaciers, huge north of England”. The 305-km (190-mile) the Boswellia sacra – a gnarled tree whose
lava fields, crater lakes, waterfalls and snowy, conical peaks. Lumbering bears, marmots trail runs from western Cumbria, through resin was once more valuable than gold.
and foxes are not uncommon sights alongside the salmon-filled Asacha river. Looking the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales, to The UNESCO-protected route takes in
down the steep rock walls into the caldera of the Mutnovsky volcano is a highlight. Robin Hood’s Bay on the east coast. mountains, beaches and a “lost city”.
BEIJING/SHANGHAI–LHASA TRAIN, MILFORD TRACK, NEW ZEALAND HA LONG BAY BY JUNK, VIETNAM You may have a picture in your mind of Ha Long
CHINA AND TIBET The world’s highest Running from Glade Wharf to Milford Bay, with its jutting limestone mountains that rise so dramatically from the Golf of Tonkin,
railway averages 4,000 m (13,120 ft) in Sound, this trail ascends from beech forest but one thing’s for sure – nothing can prepare you for its awesome beauty. Around 3,000
elevation, but you’ll have plenty of time to sub-alpine scrub, crossing swinging of these islands pierce the sky, their reflections shimmering in the emerald water of the
to acclimatize on the 48-hour trip. Enjoy bridges over roaring creeks along the bay. Rock arches, pristine lagoons, sheer cliffs, coves and stretches of white-sand beach
fabulous bird’s-eye views of the Loess way. Take in views of the twinkling fjords, adorn the dramatic islets, while junks pass between them, tending to fishing hatcheries.
Plain and Tangula Mountains on the way. plunging valleys and snowy peaks below. Cruises can last from one to ten days aboard a refitted wooden Chinese-style junk.
ANTARCTIC ICEBREAKER VOYAGE CANAL DU MIDI, FRANCE This 240-km THE BLUE TRAIN, CAPE TOWN TO
During the brief Antarctic summer, boats (150-mile) canal, running from Toulouse PRETORIA, SOUTH AFRICA This 27-hour
with strong hulls and powerful engines, to the port town of Sète, was built in the journey covers 1,610 km (1,000 miles)
known as icebreakers, plough through the 17th century as a shortcut from the and passes through some extraordinary
ice to keep channels open for navigation Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Hire a scenery; from lush valleys, vineyards and
in these inhospitable waters. Trips ashore narrow boat and navigate your own way, farms, to towering mountain backdrops
allow a glimpse of this remote and extreme or charter a more luxurious barge and put and bleak, high-altitude plains. The train
land, where the weather can change in an your feet up. Along the way, you’ll pass is luxurious: its opulent suites are fitted
instant. Keep your eyes peeled for seals, ancient villages, magnificent châteaux with thick carpets and marble tiles, and
grey whales and emperor penguins. and vineyards, and through 91 locks. the food and service are impeccable.
CURZON TRAIL, UTTARAKHAND, INDIA GIBB RIVER ROAD DRIVE, WESTERN ICEFIELDS PARKWAY DRIVE, CANADA
Skirting the western edge of the Nanda AUSTRALIA The Gibb Road is a dusty This 230-km (145-mile) route from Lake
Devi Reserve, this challenging hike follows route that passes through some of the Louise to Jasper takes in the spectacular
the route taken by Lord Curzon, Viceroy Kimberley’s wildest terrain. Constructed Canadian Rockies, home of the vast ice
of India, in 1905. One of the best views of in the 1960s as a cattle path, this 660-km fields of Columbia and Athabasca, as well
the Himalayas is visible from the Kuari Pass. (410-mile) dirt track can only be tackled in as extensive flora and fauna. It’s hard to
You’ll travel through local communities and a 4WD. Creeks, gorges and waterfalls make believe that this scenic highway, now the
past a number of ruined temples. The high good stop-off points along the way, and main north-south route through this
meadow of Bedni Bugyal must be one of bush hikes bring you to deep pools that are inhospitable range, was built in 1930 as
the world’s most spectacular picnic spots. perfect for getting the dust out of your hair. part of an unemployment relief project.
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GRE AT JOURNEYS
ABOVE Trekking with llamas on a mountain slope in the Cordillera Real, Bolivia
RIGHT Colourful floating market, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
LLAMA TREK, BOLIVIA The magnificent Cordillera Real stretches for 160 km (100 miles) MEKONG RIVER, VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA At Cai Be floating market in Vietnam, small
and encompasses sheer granite cliffs, snow-capped peaks, shimmering lagoons and wooden boats bursting with fruits and flowers jostle for position, and the incessant calls of
glaciers. Starting with a 3-hour drive from La Paz, this high-altitude trek takes you to traders attempting to sell their wares fills the air. Life along the Mekong is all about the
heights of up to 4,500 m (14,765 ft), where you need to take things slowly in the rarefied river: villages on stilts rise out of it, splendid temples and pagodas emerge from its banks
air. The path follows pre-Inca trails and your equipment is carried by mules and llamas, and miles of rice paddies are flooded by its water every summer. The Mekong begins in the
which are led by an arriero (muleteer). You are likely to come across the indigenous mountains of Tibet and descends through China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and
Aymara people in their stone houses or herding alpacas on the mountain slopes. Vietnam; but it’s this last bustling stretch of the river that makes for the best trip.
SAHARA CAMEL CARAVAN, MOROCCO E&O EXPRESS, BANGKOK TO SINGAPORE Watching the changing Asian scenery from the
The red-gold of this desert is best seen Observation Car conjures up an image of a more romantic era of travel, as this half-kilometre
from atop a camel; their stately pace (quarter-mile) string of immaculate cream carriages sweeps from Thailand into Malaysia,
allows you to take in the changing colours crossing wooden viaducts and scenic bridges as it goes. You’ll pause at the Kwai river for
in the searing heat. This is the way that a short cruise, and again at George Town for a rickshaw ride around the city. Cultural and
Bedouins have travelled for thousands of geographical diversity are features of this epic ride, which begins with the bustle of Bangkok
years, working their way to Marrakech. and terminates in Singapore, a melting pot of Chinese, Indian and Malay cultures.
KAYAKING IN THE SEA OF CORTEZ, BAJA CALIFORNIA, MEXICO The combination DARJEELING HIMALAYAN RAILWAY, CHE GUEVARA’S MOTORCYLE ROUTE,
of calm, turquoise waters, unremitting sunshine and abundant wildlife makes a kayaking INDIA Every day for the past 130 years a SOUTH AMERICA Icons don’t come
trip in the Sea of Cortez truly unforgettable. Watch out for manta rays, which surface steam engine has wound its way through more swashbuckling than Ernesto “Che”
gracefully beside you as you paddle. Nights are spent under the stars on white-sand the hill stations of northern India, under Guevara, and South America’s dramatic
beaches, with the craggy, cacti-studded landscape of Espíritu Santo Island as a backdrop. the gaze of Kanchanjenga, the world’s scenery is hard to beat too. The U-shaped
From here, it is a short trip to the sheltered lagoons of Magdalena Bay where, every year, third-highest mountain. The UNESCO loop from Buenos Aires to Santiago is
grey whales arrive from more than 8,050 km (5,000 miles) away in the Arctic, to calve and World Heritage-protected “toy train”, breathtaking. The towns have changed
nurse their young in the shallow waters. For safety’s sake, jump off your kayak and onto a which once transported rice and tea, since the 50s, but the ever-present Andean
skiff to get a close view of these powerful creatures, which often breach so close to the now takes passengers to Darjeeling. spine hasn’t; cross it in the Lake District as
boat that you could reach out and touch them. There are fabulous views along the way. Che did, and swap Argentina for Chile.
LYCIAN COAST BY GULET, TURKEY NEW YORK STATE CANALS, USA STEVENSON TRAIL, CÉVENNES,
Olive groves, sheer limestone cliffs, deep The 19th-century Erie Canal, a feat of FRANCE In Travels with a Donkey, Robert
inlets, pristine beaches and ancient Greek engineering that established New York as Louis Stevenson recounts his epic 210-km
and Roman ruins characterize Turkey’s America’s commercial capital, connected (130-mile) walk along the spine of the
“coast of light”. Explore it in a gulet – a the city with the Northwest Territories in Cévennes in south-central France, with
two-masted wooden boat once used Canada, which were rich in minerals. Erie, only his donkey for company. This gentle
for trade and later styled into a luxury and New York State’s three other canals – route can be taken as one or in shorter
vessel. Bask in the sun and take in the Oswego, Cayuga-Seneca and Champlain segments, and runs through meadows,
mesmerizing, ever-changing littoral – can be explored by boat, and all have medieval villages and lush woodland.
from the gulet’s comfortable deck. museums dedicated to their history. Hire a donkey to help with your luggage.
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GRE AT JOURNEYS
HORSEBACK CATTLE DRIVE, PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA Galloping across wild rolling THE GHAN, AUSTRALIA From Adelaide in the south of the country through the scorching
prairie, with the snowy peaks of the Andes rising up ahead, is one of the most exhilarating desert of the centre and on to tropical Top End (the northerly peninsula of land on which
experiences South America has to offer. Accompanied by native gaucho horsemen, you’ll Darwin sits) runs one of the longest train journeys in the world. The Ghan covers 2,980 km
assist in herding cattle from their winter estancia to their highland summer grazing land, (1,850 miles) in 54 hours and takes in the stunning diversity of the outback. The agricultural
traversing icy rivers, rocky gorges, flower-filled grasslands and dense forest, and scattering south gives way to vast stretches of desert and an interminable sun around Alice Springs.
deer and guanacos along the way. You’ll sleep under the twinkling stars of the southern The journey ends in lush, swampy terrain as it nears Darwin. The train, while not luxurious,
hemisphere and feast alfresco on mouth-watering beef and freshly caught trout. has comfortable berths, and kangaroo and barramundi are often on the menu.
SOUTH DOWNS WAY, UK Stretching for DOURO VALLEY WINE CRUISE, CASCADE LOOP DRIVE, WASHINGTON, USA This 645-km (400-mile) journey along the
160 km (100 miles) along the hills between PORTUGAL This 8-day cruise in the world’s North Cascades Scenic Highway takes in some of the state’s most spectacular scenery,
Winchester in Hampshire and Eastbourne oldest wine-making region begins among including the sheer, craggy walls of the Tumwater Canyon, the churning rapids of the
in Sussex, this path takes in two Areas of the gabled houses of Porto and turns Wenatchee River and the deep, narrow expanse of water at Lake Chelan. The landscape is
Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is open to around in Salamanca, Spain’s fantastically dotted with vineyards, lakes and mountains, and is magnificent in autumn, when copper
hikers, horse-riders and cyclists, and links preserved medieval city. Lush hills and and gold maple leaves litter the valley floors. The forested islands of Whidbey and Fidalgo
pretty villages with wide coastal vistas. pretty terraced vineyards flank the river. merit a few days’ exploration, as do the horse enclosures in the Methow River Valley.
VANUATU ARCHIPELAGO CRUISE, TUNDRA BUGGYING FOR POLAR KHYBER PASS STEAM SAFARI,
SOUTH PACIFIC Tall ships, sloops and BEARS, CANADA When the Hudson Bay PAKISTAN This 19th-century railway line
motorboats cruise between these 83 lush freezes in October and November, polar begins in Peshawar and works its way
volcanic islands, taking in the thick jungle bears come out onto the ice to hunt for between the Sulaiman Hills, passing
of Ambae Island, Maewo’s fresh springs seals. Explore the icy landscape in a tundra through 34 tunnels and over 92 bridges,
and waterfalls, the black sand of Ambrym, buggy – a large, heated vehicle that allows and climbing 1,200 m (3,940 ft) along the
and the pristine white Champagne Beach close-up views of these powerful creatures way. The coaches, which are pulled by two
on Espíritu Santo. There will be ample from grated observation platforms. Dainty oil-fired engines, wheeze and shudder as
opportunity for diving, snorkelling and arctic foxes and arctic hares also pick their they cross this rugged landscape. The
kayaking in the crystal-clear water. way across the snow and ice here. scenery from the train is starkly beautiful.
NATCHEZ TRACE PARKWAY DRIVE, REINDEER MIGRATION, SWEDEN DRÂA VALLEY DRIVE, MOROCCO
MISSISSIPPI AND TENNESSEE, USA The frozen landscape of Laponia is white Through craggy cliffs and steep canyons,
The National Scenic Byway snakes its way and still, but each spring it comes to life the Drâa river has carved out a shady
from the Tennessee Valley to Natchez, and when thousands of reindeer are herded path between Agdz and Zagora in
showcases the antebellum charm of the 200 km (125 miles) across it. Join the Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains. The
South. Tall colonnades front grand historic local Sámi herdsmen, who will lead you valley is full of date-palm plantations,
homes in Natchez; Raymond is rich in Civil as you travel on skis or snowmobiles oases and ksour, old fortified towns. Hire
War history; and Leipers Fork resonates through dense forest and alongside ice- a 4WD for this 95-km (60-mile) journey,
with the sounds of country fiddle and covered lakes. Nights are spent in a kata which takes in some of the country’s
banjo from its open-air theatre. (tent), with a central stove for warmth. most spectacular scenery.
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GRE AT JOURNEYS
ABOVE Bright red boat hut at L’Anse aux Meadows, at the end of the Viking Trail, in Newfoundland, Canada
LEFT The vivid gold and bronze of Colorado’s autumn foliage, with the Rocky Mountains in the distance
SAN JUAN SKYWAY DRIVE, COLORADO, USA A drive through Colorado’s southwestern THE VIKING TRAIL, CANADA If the idea of exploring wild tundra landscapes with few
San Juan Range is spectacular at any time of year. Follow this 380-km (235-mile) route and people and herds of roaming caribous appeals to you, then make for Newfoundland’s
you’ll pass gushing streams and waterfalls in spring, blankets of wildflowers in summer and Viking Trail. This stunning route, which runs along a narrow sliver of highway that has
precipitous slopes thick with snow in winter. But the landscape is at its most spectacular been carved out of a spectacular landscape, is perfect for nature enthusiasts. It takes you
in autumn, when the cottonwood and aspen trees take on a palette of fiery hues. The towns from the dramatic coastal mountains and fjords of Gros Morne National Park north, along
along the road were established after the discovery of precious metals in the area, and an unforgettably wild coastline, to the remote northern tip of Newfoundland. This is
remnants of the precarious railway that ran to and from the mines are still visible. where Leif Erikson and a handful of other Viking settlers landed 1,000 years ago.
MONGOLIA ON HORSEBACK There is no WALKING MONT BLANC’S HAUTE ROUTE, FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND With a
better way to explore Mongolia than on backdrop comprising 10 of the 12 highest mountains in the Alps, including mighty Mont
horseback. This is a country of diverse Blanc and the Matterhorn, the Haute Route is breathtaking. The trail leaves Chamonix
landscapes, from the rolling dunes and vast and crosses forested valleys, ascends passes and traverses glittering ice-slopes to arrive in
steppes of the Gobi Desert in the south, to Switzerland at the picturesque village of Zermatt. Nights are spent in mountain huts.
the forests of the Siberian north and fast- There is also a more challenging Haute Route, which takes in glaciers and requires more
flowing rivers of the centre. technical experience. Never attempt this second option without an experienced guide.
THE GOLDEN ROAD TO SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN The great trade route from YANGTZE RIVER CRUISE, CHINA Also ZAMBEZI CANOE SAFARI, AFRICA
China to the West, known as the Silk Road, was opened in order to satisfy ancient Rome’s known as Chang Jiang (Long River), the Elephants douse themselves on the
demand for silk in the 1st century BC. It saw a constant stream of merchants, laden with Yangtze flows 6,300 km (3,910 miles) from riverbank as your canoe cuts silently
silk, spices, perfumes and gems. The Golden Road, Uzbekistan’s stretch of the route, the Tibetan Plateau to the East China Sea, through the water. This kind of close
made a remarkable impact on the cities through which it passed. Their architecture is a passing ancient temples, remote villages encounter is common on a river safari,
heady amalgam of cultures and ideas, from the jumbled streets and high-walled citadel and the controversial Three Gorges with hippos and buffalos gathering
of Samarkand to the clay city walls of ancient Khiva and the delicate mosque of Bukhara. Dam, soon to be the world’s largest around the region’s lifeblood, and
The intervening landscape is stark, inhospitable and spectacular, with jutting mountains, hydroelectric power plant. At Qutang crocodiles occasionally slinking by. The
fertile valleys and bleak, high plains. The highlights can be seen in an 8- or 10-day trip by Gorge, the shortest of the Three Gorges, largest concentration of game is found
bus or 4WD, and there is a slow but reliable train. low mist hangs eerily over triangular peaks. on the Lower Zambezi.
PACIFIC CREST TRAIL, USA AND SKELETON COAST DRIVE, NAMIBIA This MARLBOROUGH WINE TOUR BY BIKE, CAMINO REAL TREK, PANAMA Hike the
CANADA This 4,265-km (2,650-mile) trail remote stretch of coast, often shrouded in NEW ZEALAND The lower Wairau Valley, ancient Royal Road 65 km (40 miles) from
from Mexico to Canada passes through the a thick sea mist caused by currents from on New Zealand’s South Island, is blessed Panama’s Pacific coast to the Caribbean,
diverse scenery of the western USA. The the Antarctic, is riddled with shipwrecks. with gentle sunshine, which makes the and you’ll be on the most genuine of
chaparral-covered slopes of Southern The region has a hostile beauty, with area ideal for growing Sauvignon Blanc and treasure trails, following in the footsteps
California give way to the steep valleys windswept sand dunes, black lava ridges Chardonnay grapes, and also for biking. of the bounty-laden conquistadors who
and high passes of the Sierra Nevada. In and fiery granite massifs. Desert elephants, Take in the vineyards as you go, weighing carved the route as a shortcut for their
Oregon, the landscape is forested and black rhinos and springboks live here, but down your basket with bottles. The route homeward-bound Inca spoils. You’ll trek
dotted with crater lakes, while Washington the only human inhabitants are the Himba, is flat and quiet, with views over neat rows through virgin rainforest, rich in flora and
offers dramatic canyons and snowfields. who eke out a living in the interior. of vines sloping up into misty foothills. fauna, and camp on riverbanks.
architectural marvels
Spectacular cupola inside the Reichstag, Berlin, Germany (p142)
118
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE The magnificent interior of Haghia Sophia, Istanbul
BELOW (left to right) Haghia Sophia illuminated at night; mosaic of
the Virgin Mary and Christ Child with two Byzantine rulers, Haghia Sophia
3 MORE RELIGIOUS
MONUMENTS TO RIVAL
BASILICA SAN MARCO
ST CATHERINE’S MONASTERY, MOUNT SINAI, EGYPT
Dating from the 6th century, St Catherine’s is one of the oldest
functioning monasteries in the world. It is set spectacularly at
the foot of Mount Sinai, where Moses is said to have received
the Ten Commandments, and contains a priceless collection of
religious art, icons and manuscripts.
MOUNT ATHOS, MACEDONIA, NORTHERN GREECE
The semi-autonomous monastic state of Mount Athos has altered
very little since Byzantine days. Its 2,000 monks continue their
1,000-year-old tradition of study and prayer, and no female –
human or animal – is permitted entry. The only access is by boat.
RAVENNA’S BYZANTINE CHURCHES, ITALY Ravenna, once
the western capital of the Byzantine Empire, is home to a number
of beautiful churches dating from the 5th to the 7th centuries.
These churches are famous for their stunning mosaics, which
are considered among the finest in Western art.
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ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE Fine mosaicwork within the dome at the Imam Mosque
BELOW (left to right) Portal to Imam Mosque; a minaret towers above
the city of Isfahan; striking tilework on the dome of the Imam Mosque
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ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
Imam Mosque
vs St Peter’s Basilica
Isfahan’s Imam Mosque is an architectural masterpiece of almost overwhelming loveliness,
and a far cry from the hustle and bustle of St Peter’s in Rome
NEED TO KNOW the dazzling blue tiles with which, for many, Islamic west side, the Ali Qapu palace; to the north, the
architecture is synonymous. It is almost as if the entrance to the great Bazar-e Bozorg; the exquisite
LOCATION Isfahan is a
city 340 km (210 miles)
building had been turned inside-out (or outside- Sheikh Lotfullah mosque to the east and to the
5BCSJ[ $BTQJBO
south of Tehran, Iran 4FB in). Viewed from the outside, against a medley of south, the enticing doorway to the Imam Mosque.
.BTIIBE
DATE OF 5FISBO sun-baked ochre rooftops and low, jagged hills The mosque is entered by way of a magnificent
CONSTRUCTION
*3"2 *4'")"/ rising beyond the city’s edge, only the mosque’s portal, some 27 m (88 ft) high and encased entirely
1611–30, with final
touches in 1638 *3"/ lovely dome and its towering entrance give any in superb mosaic tilework. Framed by twin minarets
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES 4IJSB[ inkling of the mesmerizing beauty of the interior. even taller than the portal, and festooned with
Jan: 7°C (45°F); Apr: 15°C The Imam Mosque is the crown jewel of the stalactite-like mouldings, the scale of this entrance
(60°F); Jul: 27°C (81°F); 4"6%* 1FSTJBO
(VMG
Oct: 16°C (61°F)
"3"#*"
Meydan-e Imam – a huge square also known by utterly dwarfs the visitor.
the more poetic name of Naqsh-e Jahan or Although the gateway faces squarely onto the
“Ornament of the World”. Now a designated Meydan, the interior of the mosque is offset from
Few buildings in the world can match the refined UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned this so that the main prayer hall faces towards
proportions and exquisite decoration of Isfahan’s by Shah Abbas I as part of a massive building Mecca. The dome has a double-shelled construction,
Imam Mosque. In contrast to the vast, marble-clad programme intended to transform his capital, its exterior rising to a height of 52 m (170 ft). In
interior of St Peter’s Basilica, the entrance of the Isfahan, into one of the most splendid cities in the spite of its size, the dome almost gives the illusion
Imam Mosque leads the visitor to a sun-filled open world. The square itself was originally planned as a of floating, a yellow arabesque pattern meandering
courtyard, surrounded on three sides by enormous, space for military parades and polo matches and, lazily across the pale blue surface. Its twin shells
vaulted chambers, the largest of these framed by at over 500 m (1,640 ft) on its longest side, is produce a remarkable acoustic effect, replicating
slender minarets and backed by a monumental among the largest public squares in the world. individual sounds in a series of clear echoes.
dome. Almost every visible surface is covered with Each side is set with an architectural gem: on the
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET ST PETER’S BASILICA? Getting There and Around caravanserai with a stunning
Isfahan’s airport is about 25 km courtyard garden (www.
THE BUILD-UP St Peter’s Basilica is justifiably famous, (15 miles) from the city. There is abbasihotel.com). Another good,
its spectacular design and decoration incorporating the successive no shuttle service, but there are convenient option is the Hasht
talents of Bramante, Michelangelo, Maderno and Bernini, among local buses as well as taxis. There Behesht Apartment Hotel
are regular flights to Isfahan (tel. +98 311 221 4868), not far
others. Its scale is staggering by any standards, and its dome,
from Tehran, and frequent bus from the Meydan-e Imam.
at 136 m (446 ft), is the highest in the world. services from cities across Iran.
When to Go
Where to Eat Spring and autumn are the best
THE LETDOWN The problem is that St Peter’s, like Rome as a
Shahrzad (tel. +98 311 220 times to visit Isfahan – summer
whole, attracts an enormous number of visitors, tourists and 4490) serves one of the best
pilgrims. The grand architectural design cannot help but lose can be very hot. Schedule your
selections of Persian cuisine in visit to the mosque to avoid
something of its impact when seen amid a sea of bodies and voices. Isfahan. Restoran-e Sa’di (tel. prayer times, especially on
Expect long queues and security checks before you get in, and +98 311 222 0237), opposite
Fridays. The best time of day to
crowds once you’re inside. Michelangelo’s exquisite sculpture, the Amir Kabir Hostel, is an
photograph the building is in the
the Pietà, is now surrounded with bullet-proof glass, after a visitor excellent, cheap alternative. For a
morning or early evening.
attacked it with a geologist’s hammer in the 1970s. real Isfahan experience, watch
the world go by at the Qeysarieh Budget per Day for Two
ABOVE Summer crowds throng the hot, unshaded
square outside St Peter’s Basilica in Rome Tea Shop on Imam Square. £40–50 for entry fees,
GOING ANYWAY? If you do plan to visit St Peter’s, try to arrive
Where to Stay accommodation and meals.
early in the day, to miss the worst of the queues. There is no shade in the square, so it’s a good idea
to carry a hat and some water. It is best to visit outside of July and August, and to avoid Easter. Isfahan’s landmark resting place Website
is the Abbasi Hotel, a historic www.isfahan.ir
122
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS 6 MORE DOMES TO RIVAL ST PETER’S BASILICA
Süleymaniye The splendid dome of the mosque at Tilla Kari Madrasah, Uzbekistan British Museum
Mosque
Tilla Kari NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
The elaborately tiled entrance to the Dome of the Rock, Israel
Florence’s Duomo, rising majestically over the city, Italy
Dome of Worshipper at one of the gateways to the Great Stupa of Sanchi, India
Duomo, florence
the Rock Great Stupa
of Sanchi
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Duomo is
in central Florence, in the Tuscany .JMBO LOCATION The Dome of the Rock is
region of Italy )BJGB NEED TO KNOW
on the eastern edge of Jerusalem, at the
'-03&/$&
DATE OF foot of the Mount of Olives
CONSTRUCTION * 5" - : "ESJBUJD 5FM"WJW LOCATION Sanchi is around 700
4FB DATE OF .FEJUFSSBOFBO
1296–1436 km (435 miles) south of Delhi, in the
3PNF CONSTRUCTION 4 FB +&364"-&. $)*/"
(dome 1420–36) #BSJ Indian state of Madhya Pradesh 1",*45"/
Completed 691 /&1"-
DAYTIME *43"&- DATE OF %FMIJ
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES 5ZSSIFOJBO CONSTRUCTION 4"/$)*
4 FB TEMPERATURES +03%"/
Jan: 5°C (40°F); Apr: 14°C (57°F); *POJBO 3rd–1st centuries BC, and ,PMLBUB
Jan: 9°C (48°F); Apr: 17°C &(:15
Jul: 26°C (79°F); Oct: 17°C (63°F) 1BMFSNP 4 FB 5th century AD J OEJ B
(63°F); Jul: 24°C (75°F); .VNCBJ
Oct: 21°C (70°F) DAYTIME #BZPG
&JMBU TEMPERATURES Jan: 19°C #FOHBM
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
San Gimignano
vs the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Famed for its tourist-pleasing tilt, the Leaning Tower of Pisa attracts busloads of camera-toting tourists. However, the equally ancient
but totally vertical towers of San Gimignano invite the truly curious to explore a preserved medieval community
NEED TO KNOW
on their journey to the Holy City. But increasing The period of domination by Florence, and later by
prosperity and a growing desire for autonomy Siena, saw many of the mighty towers tumble from
LOCATION San Gimignano demanded fortification, and the first defensive neglect, and San Gimignano drifted further into
7FOJDF
is in Tuscany, Italy, 75 km
(47 miles) southeast of Pisa
.JMBO towers were built. By the beginning of the obscurity. But it was this fall from grace that saved
4"/
DATE OF 1JTB (*.*(/"/0 13th century San Gimignano was a powerful the town from losing its medieval Tuscan charm.
CONSTRUCTION * 5" - : and independent community, and its wealthy The Torre Grossa, nearly as tall as the tower in Pisa,
12th–14th centuries "ESJBUJD
3PNF 4FB (and feuding) families vied with one another in the but without the slant, dominates the town and is
HEIGHT /BQMFT
The Torre Grossa construction of ever taller tower-houses, to protect the only one of the 14 remaining towers that can
5ZSSIFOJBO
is 54 m (177 ft) high 4 FB them from threats from without and within the city. be ascended. A climb up its stairs transports you
*POJBO
PURPOSE Defence
1BMFSNP 4 FB For medieval pilgrims headed to Rome, San back in time, as the view from the top reveals an
and status symbols
Gimignano was an architectural anomaly in the ancient patchwork of carefully tended vineyards
rich farmland of Tuscany. Its 72 towers created an and farmlands spread across the Elsa valley.
Unlike the bustling conurbation of Pisa, San almost metropolitan skyline on the hill overlooking The palaces, churches and squares within San
Gimignano closes its gates to the modern world. the Elsa valley, a sight which must have been both Gimignano give a sense of what city life must have
Both car and 21st-century attitudes must be left awe-inspiring and fear-inducing for weary travellers. been like in its heyday. The Piazza della Cisterna, for
outside as you enter this charming hilltop town Sadly, the autonomy of San Gimignano was example, with a public well in the centre, has been
with its deep medieval roots. Named after the destroyed in the mid-14th century, in part due to a gathering place for over 1,200 years. A visit to the
Bishop of Modena credited with saving the town its strategic location. Waves of the Black Plague town’s museums offers insights into its cultural
from marauding Huns in the 10th century, this pandemic ravaged the once-populous town, heritage and, in June, the Feria delle Messi festival
turreted Tuscan gem elevates rather than entertains. wiping out over two-thirds of the residents and brings knights, acrobats and medieval musicians
Situated on the Via Francigena route to Rome leaving behind a destabilized society. In its weakened to its streets. But your first glimpse of its tower-
(see pp96–7), San Gimignano emerged and state it soon fell under the control of nearby crowned hilltop is a thrill that you will never forget.
flourished for centuries as a waypoint for pilgrims Florence, and its power and status faded fast.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
Tower NEED TO KNOW Campanile
LOCATION Delhi,
NEED TO KNOW in the Punjab region 1",*45"/
NEED TO KNOW
/&1"-
northern India
LOCATION Florence, %&-)* LOCATION Venice,
DATE OF .JMBO
in the Tuscany region of .JMBO ,PMLBUB on the Adriatic Sea in 7&/*$&
CONSTRUCTION
northern Italy */%*" northeastern Italy
'-03&/$& 1193–1236 'MPSFODF
DATE OF .VNCBJ #BZPG DATE OF
HEIGHT 72 m (238 ft) "SBCJBO #FOHBM * 5" - : "ESJBUJD
CONSTRUCTION * 5" - : "ESJBUJD
4FB CONSTRUCTION 4FB
4FB
1334–59 PURPOSE Uncertain, 9th–12th centuries. 3PNF
3PNF #BOHBMPSF #BSJ
#BSJ but possibly for the call to Collapsed completely
HEIGHT 85 m (278 ft)
prayer, as a watchtower or in 1902; reconstruction
PURPOSE Bell tower 5ZSSIFOJBO a triumphal monument completed in 1912 5ZSSIFOJBO
4FB
(campanile) for the 4 FB
*POJBO
adjoining Basilica of *POJBO HEIGHT 98 m (320 ft) 1BMFSNP 4FB
1BMFSNP 4 FB
Santa Maria del Fiore PURPOSE Bell tower
The world’s tallest brick minaret, the Qutb Minar
is set in peaceful gardens along with funerary
This exquisite masterpiece of the Florentine buildings and other masterworks of Indo-Muslim The elegant bell tower of St Mark’s Basilica is as
Renaissance is the perfect accompaniment to architecture dating from the 12th to the 14th recognizable and treasured a Venetian icon as the
Brunelleschi’s basilica dome on the Piazza del centuries. It is a tapering cylindrical tower, with gondolas of the Grand Canal. The red brick shaft,
Duomo in Florence. An accomplished painter as alternating angular and circular flutings, covered with its arched belfry and pyramidal spire, is
well as an architect, Giotto di Bondone created a with fine engravings and Koranic quotations. topped by a 3-m (10-ft) golden weathervane
tower designed to look as if it were painted, Construction was begun under Qutub-ud-Din depicting the angel Gabriel with outstretched
incorporating his chiaroscuro (“light and shade”) Aibak, the first ruler of the medieval Delhi wings. Venetians believe that when the angel is
style and perspective. The tower is decorated in Sultanate, and founder of the Slave Dynasty, facing the Basilica, high tides are on the way.
geometric designs of multicoloured marble and using sandstone from demolished Jain temples. It Fires, floods and earthquakes all took their toll on
adorned with sculptures. Giotto was 67 when was extended by his son-in-law and has been the campanile. Even after repeated restoration,
construction began and at the time of his death repaired several times since, but it has withstood ominous cracks reappeared and on 14 July 1902
three years later, only the first level was complete, the pull of gravity, leaning only 60 cm (24 inches). at 9:45am the original tower collapsed into
but his design was carried forward by Pisano, rubble. Miraculously, the only fatality was the
Talenti, Donatello and other master craftsmen caretaker’s cat. A wisely reinforced reconstruction
Practical Information
and artists to glorious completion 22 years later. Getting There and Around The Qutb Minar is the centrepiece of the Qutb
was inaugurated on St Mark’s Day, 25 April 1912.
Complex in Mehrauli, 15 km (9 miles) south of central Delhi.
Practical Information When to Go The complex is open year-round (though the Minar cannot be Practical Information
Getting There and Around Florence has a regional aiport but most visitors climbed), but the heat and pollution of Mar–Jun, and the monsoons of Getting There and Around Busy public water buses take 45 mins from
arrive from Pisa’s international airport (1hr by train). Jul–Sep make late autumn to early spring (Oct– Feb) the best time to visit. Marco Polo Airport to St Mark’s Square, site of the campanile.
When to Go April and May are delightful in Florence, while July and Website www.asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_qutbminar.asp When to Go Summer is hot and crowded. Winter can see flooding but the
August bring the biggest crowds. The campanile can be climbed all year. Carnival (Feb) is a magical time. The campanile may be climbed all year.
Website www.firenzeturismo.it Elaborately carved, tapering Qutb Minar, viewed from the Quwwat-ul- Website www.basilicasanmarco.it
Islam Mosque in the complex, India
Giotto’s magnificent bell tower, flanked by the Basilica di Santa Maria The Campanile, dominating St Mark’s Square, seen from the perfect
del Fiore on Piazza del Duomo, Italy vantage point of the Grand Canal, Italy
128
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
9 de Julio
vs Champs-Elysées
Buenos Aires takes on Paris as home to
the world’s greatest thoroughfare
NEED TO KNOW
ABOVE Packed pavement cafés along the Champs-Elysées
LOCATION Avenida 9 de Julio runs
north–south through the centre of
the Argentinian capital, Buenos Aires $ØSEPCB
FORGET THE
VISITORS PER YEAR
.FOEP[B
#6&/04 CHAMPSELYSÉES?
2,342,000 "*3&4
WEATHER Summer (Dec–Feb) $)*-&
"3(&/5*/" THE BUILD-UP The Champs-Elysées, Paris’s
can be very hot and humid. Autumn most prestigious avenue, is celebrated for its
and spring are warm and sunny "UMBOUJD
0 DF BO tree-lined beauty and elegant fountains and
DIMENSIONS 1BDJ m D
2.6 km (1.6 miles) long and 0 DF BO statues. Called “la plus belle avenue du monde”
ABOVE Dazzling interior of the Teatro Colón
140 m (460 ft) wide BELOW Avenida 9 de Julio ablaze with light after the sun has set
by Parisians, it is marked at its eastern extreme
by the stately Place de la Concorde and at its
western limit by the glorious Arc de Triomphe.
Step out onto the Avenida 9 de Julio and you can’t echoes the grandeur of the great Roman baths;
fail to appreciate that you are on one of the world’s and to the Palacio Ortiz Basualdo, whose exquisite THE LETDOWN Once synonymous with high
greatest, most thrilling thoroughfares. Twenty lanes Beaux-Arts architecture recalls the palaces of Paris style and grand living, the Champs-Elysées has
of roaring traffic stand between you and the other and which houses the French Embassy. sacrificed its reputation in recent times. In a
side of an asphalt canyon claimed by Argentinians No visit to the Avenida should overlook its single trend decried as “banalization”by the Paris
as the widest avenue in the world. Gouged through greatest highlight, the magnificent Teatro Colón authorities, global chain stores and themed
restaurants now throng an avenue increasingly
the centre of Buenos Aires in the 1930s to link the opera house. Built in 1908, this world-class venue’s
seen as a commercialized tourist trap.
city’s northern and southern limits, this extraordinary beautiful main entrance, fashioned in the French
feat of urban planning renders even the Champs- Renaissance style, conceals a still more ornate GOING ANYWAY? Focus your visit on the less
Elysées a mere side street in comparison. Not only interior. Fascinating tours reveal marbled halls, a money-driven section of the avenue, east of
does it extend for over half-a-kilometre further majestically domed auditorium and labyrinthine Rond-Point, where the majestic Grand Palais
than Europe’s most celebrated boulevard, but it is subterranean workshops. Underground, amidst the and Palais de l’Elysée overlook lovely gardens.
also, incredibly, twice as wide. relics of performances past, not a whisper is heard To eat well and cheaply in true French style, try
It is not simply the dimensions of the 9 de Julio of the urban highway that roars just metres away. the side streets for little bistros and crêperies.
that amaze. Visitors walking its length soon realize Whether you stroll down the Avenida or zip
they are on one of the world’s greatest patriotic along it at breakneck speed in a taxi, the influence
thoroughfares, named in honour of Argentina’s of Europe is ever-present on an avenue built in the
Independence Day (9 July 1816) and studded with image of Paris’s great boulevards. But linger awhile, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
monumental architecture. Most iconic of all is the sip a leisurely cup of coffee at a pavement café,
soaring Obelisco, a 65-m (213-ft) needle that and still more vibrant images emerge – children Getting There and Around Where to Stay
reaches skywards at the Avenida’s midpoint. It was splashing in ornate fountains; huge neon billboards International flights to Buenos There are numerous top-quality
Aires land at Ezeiza Airport, hotels on the Avenida 9 de Julio.
built in 1936, to mark the 400th anniversary of the glowing atop crumbling belle époque façades – 22 km (35 miles) from the city Easily the most luxurious is the
city’s founding. From its base, broad sidewalks of all accompanied by the sound of tango music centre (45 mins by shuttle bus or Four Seasons Hotel, an elegant
fancy statuary and ornate fountains strike out for drifting from open doors and windows. It is this taxi). All subway lines stop at the main tower and an adjacent
the southern and northern extremities of the heady mix of South American vitality and European 9 de Julio and numerous buses Belle-Epoque mansion, set in
Avenida; to the British-built Estación Constitución grandeur that makes the 9 de Julio, like Buenos run its length. The best way to classical gardens with a Roman
get around is on foot, but take a pool (www.fourseasons.com).
(railway station), the vast, vaulted interior of which Aires itself, a uniquely intoxicating place to be. taxi ride down the avenue at
When to Go
night to see the neon billboards
Springtime (Sep–Nov) is
and an illuminated Obelisco.
beautiful in Buenos Aires.
Where to Eat The weather is warm at 17°C
Buenos Aires is world-famous (64°F) and the trees lining the
for its steakhouses. Try a sizzling 9 de Julio gorgeously green.
lomo (tenderloin) with a bottle
Budget per Day for Two
of Malbec, Argentina’s best red
wine. El Mirasol de la Recova £160 including four-star
(tel. + 54 11 4326-7323), accommodation and food.
just off the Avenida, serves Website
king-sized cuts. www.bue.gov.ar
130
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE The towering wooden statue of Guanyin, with her magnificent
jewels and many arms BELOW (left to right) Monks in prayer; one of the
temple builldings from the outside, with the Mahayana Hall on the right
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE Walt Disney Concert Hall BELOW (left to right) The
pipe organ and ceiling of the hall’s auditorium; an abstract sculpture
outside; a performance of Tristan und Isolde by the Wagner Opera
134
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS 6 MORE MODERN BUILDINGS TO RIVAL THE SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE
Royal Ontario
Guggenheim
Museum, Canada One of the three extraordinary buildings of the Neue Zollhof
(New Customs House) in Düsseldorf, Germany
Bilbao, Spain
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Royal Ontario
Museum is on the northern side Neue Zollhof, LOCATION The "UMBOUJD0DFBO
of Queen’s Park, Toronto Guggenheim is in downtown
CONSTRUCTION
1912–14
Germany Bilbao, northern Spain
CONSTRUCTION
#*-#"0
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
The top of 30 St Mary Axe, or the “Gherkin”, the sixth tallest building in
London, England
The mismatched angles and concrete façade of the Casa da Música,
Porto, Portugal
The spectacular Turning Torso in Malmö, Sweden supposedly
Casa da Música,
(The Gherkin), Turning Torso,
Portugal
UK Sweden
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Casa da Música
LOCATION The Gherkin is LOCATION The Turning Torso
is located alongside Rotunda
10350
in London’s financial district is located on the waterfront in da Boavista, one of Porto’s "UMBOUJD
/PSUI 0DFBO
(the City), England "UMBOUJD the city of Malmö, Sweden 4FB major roundabouts, Portugal
-VMFB $PJNCSB
0DFBO
CONSTRUCTION
CONSTRUCTION (MBTHPX
&EJOCVSHI CONSTRUCTION 41"*/
2001–4 2001–5 1999–2005
/PSUI '*/-"/% 10356("-
4FB /038": ACCESS Open to
ACCESS Ground floor ACCESS -JTCPO
.BODIFTUFS visitors with tickets
and outdoor plaza only Closed to the public 48&%&/
*3&-"/%
6/*5&% 4UPDLIPMN DAYTIME TEMPERATURES
DAYTIME ,*/(%0. DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES (ÚUFCPSH Jan: 9°C (48°F); Apr: 14°C (57°F);
-0/%0/ Jul: 20°C (68°F); Oct: 16°C (61°F) 'BSP
Jan: 4°C (39°F); Apr: 10°C (50°F); Jan: 2°C (36°F); Apr: 17°C (63°F); ."-.½
Jul: 18°C (64°F); Oct: 11°C (52°F) Jul: 18°C (64°F); Oct: 9°C (48°F)
FORGET PONT
DU GARD?
THE BUILD-UP Pont du Gard is without doubt
one of the Wonders of the Ancient World.
Whether it’s the first or fiftieth time you’ve seen
it, the 2,000-year-old aqueduct never ceases to
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE Visitors on Ponte delle Torri, contemplating the drop
BELOW (left to right) A performance at the Roman theatre; the
Rocca fortress; Fra Filippo Lippi’s Coronation of the Virgin, Spoleto
138
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS 6 MORE AQUEDUCTS TO RIVAL PONT DU GARD
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
Aqueduct, los Milagros, St-Clément,
portugal Spain France
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
"UMBOUJD0DFBO 6/*5&%
LOCATION The “Aqueduct of the Free LOCATION The remains of LOCATION This aqueduct is ,*/(%0.
-JMMF
Waters” lies in Lisbon’s suburbs, close 1PSUP
the aqueduct lie outside Mérida, #JMCBP on the western side of the city of
to Parque Florestal de Monsanto "UMBOUJD which is southwest of Madrid Montpellier in the south of France 1BSJT
0DFBO 4USBTCPVSH
DIMENSIONS Length: 940 m $PJNCSB DIMENSIONS #BSDFMPOB DIMENSIONS Length: 800 m
(3,083 ft); height 69 m (226 ft) Length: 825 m (2,706 ft); 4 1" * / (2,624 ft); height: 25 m (82 ft)
4 1" * / '3"/$& 48*5;&3-"/%
10356("- .BESJE
CONSTRUCTED 10356("-
height: 25 m (82 ft) CONSTRUCTED
#BZPG -ZPO
1731–48 CONSTRUCTED "$6&%6$50%& 1754–76 #JTDBZ *5"-:
«(6"4-*73&4 -04.*-"(304 #PSEFBVY
DAYTIME 1st century AD DAYTIME
"26&%6$5 "26&%6$
TEMPERATURES DAYTIME TEMPERATURES 4FWJMMF .FEJUFSSBOFBO TEMPERATURES .BSTFJMMF
4FB 45$-².&/5
Jan: 11°C (52°F); Apr: 16°C (61°F); Jan: 9°C (48°F); Apr: 14°C (57°F); Jan: 9°C (48°F); Apr: 15°C (59°F);
'BSP .FEJUFSSBOFBO
Jul: 22 °C (72°F); Oct: 18°C (64°F) Jul: 27°C (81°F); Oct: 18°C (64°F) Jul: 25°C (77°F); Oct: 17°C (63°F) 41"*/ 4FB
With the highest pointed arch in the world, As you descend into the bowl of the city of The view of the St-Clément Aqueduct from the
the 69-m (226-ft) Águas Livres Aqueduct is an Mérida, you’ll pass through a particularly Château d’Eau is one of the most spectacular in
18th-century engineering marvel. It survived the featureless set of suburbs. Then, suddenly, France. Stretching far into the distance against
1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon, you come upon the towering remains of the the dramatic backdrop of the mountains of the
and was still bringing water to the city in the Acueducto de los Milagros (Aqueduct of the Massif Central, this aqueduct was modelled on
1960s. After walking the length of the aqueduct Miracles), stranded heroically amid the tangle Pont du Gard by engineer Henri Pitot de Launay.
over the Alcântara Valley with the Sintra Express of peripheral roads. The effect of its alternating It no longer brings water to the city, but the
hurtling beneath, visit the nearby Water Museum. granite and brick structure is striking, especially aqueduct is still in use, with a chic neighbourhood,
It encompasses an 18th-century cistern – the in spring when the storks nest where the water Les Arceaux, beneath its arches. As well as a food
Mãe D’Água Amoreiras – and the newer Boiler once flowed. The aqueduct stands proudly market, several boutiques have sprung up
Room, housing exhibits of Lisbon’s water system. aloof in its own parkland, acting as a superb alongside, and table-tennis tables and pétanque
appetizer for the rest of Roman Mérida. No courts now take advantage of the shade.
Practical Information other place in Spain boasts such a wealth of
Getting There and Around Lisbon’s airport is very close to the city centre.
classical remains.
Practical Information
There are also buses and overnight trains from Madrid, Spain. To see the Getting There and Around Montpellier has an international airport and is
aqueduct’s finest section, take a bus (2) or a taxi from the city centre. easily reached by TGV. To get to the aqueduct, head west to the flower-
Practical Information
When to Go The best months to walk the aqueduct are Mar–Jul and Sep. Getting There and Around The aqueduct is a short walk from Mérida’s old
lined Promenade de Peyrou, which ends abruptly at the Château d’Eau.
There are tours on Wed and Fri. centre. There is an airport at nearby Badajoz, but your best bet is Seville or When to Go Early spring is a great time to visit, as is October, when most of
Website www.visitlisboa.com Madrid. There are five trains a day from Madrid and one from Seville. the tourists have left.
When to Go Mérida is at its best mid-Mar–mid-Jun (though avoid Website www.ot-montpellier.fr
The elegant arch of the Águas Livres Aqueduct looming travelling in Spain at Easter) and mid-Sep–early Nov.
over Lisbon’s traffic
Website www.spain.info/TourSpain A length of the Aqueduc St-Clément with the 11th-century Château
d’Eau at one end
Notre-Dame
d’Amiens ABOVE The façade of Notre-Dame de Paris
FORGET NOTREDAME
DE PARIS?
vs Notre-Dame de Paris THE BUILD-UP England’s Henry IV was
crowned, Napoléon declared himself Emperor,
The queen of Gothic religious architecture is not the Parisian cathedral that Hugo’s and Joan of Arc was canonized in Notre-Dame
de Paris. It has an impeccable architectural as
hunchback called home, but another grande dame in unassuming little Picardy well as historical pedigree, wonderfully creepy
gargoyles, a near-perfect setting on an island in
the Seine, and an iconic supporting role in
NEED TO KNOW marble road to God, is laid into the floor of the movie and literary history.
cathedral. The idea of it is that, as in life, believers
LOCATION Amiens is in 6/*5&% -JMMF
THE LETDOWN The expectation, gleaned from
the Picardy region, 130 km
,*/(%0. negotiate their way, straying from and returning to
".*&/4 photos, films, books and your imagination, set
(80 miles) north of Paris the true path, until they reach the righteous centre.
1BSJT
VISITORS PER YEAR
4USBTCPVSH
While the interior of Amiens is strikingly simple, against the hordes of camera-wielding tourists,
800,000 '3"/$& the exterior is embellishment gone into overdrive, buskers and street vendors, can be hard to
48*5;&3-"/%
WEATHER Summer is reconcile. And – there’s no Quasimodo!
usually warm, and spring #BZPG with three portals celebrating biblical figures –
#JTDBZ -ZPO *5"-:
and autumn mild with chilly saints, apostles, magi and angels. Christ (le Beau
#PSEFBVY GOING ANYWAY? Notre-Dame de Paris is
nights. Winters are cold and .BSTFJMMF Dieu) reigns in the centre, while St Firmin, the first
damp, but rainfall may occur open every day of the year, and it’s free. Get
any time of year .FEJUFSSBOFBO bishop of Amiens, occupies the left portal, and the there early to avoid the crowds. For spectacular
41"*/ 4FB
Virgin Mary (la Vierge Dorée) is in residence in the Paris views and an up-close gargoyle encounter,
right. Above them are 22 stony, life-size kings, you can ascend one of the towers. Entrance is
The iconic cathedral of Notre-Dame in central Paris stretching across the entire façade beneath the outside the cathedral on the left. There are visits
has welcomed pilgrims and visitors through its 16th-century rose window. Every element of the from 10am daily, for which there’s an entry fee.
ornate portals for hundreds of years, drawn here by carving is of the highest craftsmanship.
its dazzling rose windows, elegant flying buttresses A laser cleaning of the façade in the 1990s
and menacing gargoyles, as well as by its deep revealed traces of the polychromatic paint that had
religious sigificance. But, not far to the north of the once enlivened its 13th-century statues, helping
capital, towering over a city at the heart of the them act as a visual bible to illiterate pilgrims.
Somme in Picardy, lies another strong contender Today, in the summer and at Christmas, laser
for the title of most outstanding Gothic church: the illuminations replicate the breathtaking effect on
cathedral of Notre-Dame d’Amiens. France’s Gothic cathedral par excellence.
France’s largest and tallest cathedral, Notre-
Dame d’Amiens dominates the skyline of the city, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and has been hailed as a Gothic masterpiece by
UNESCO, who awarded it World Heritage status Getting There and Around Where to Stay
in 1981. It was built between 1220 and 1270, to The cathedral is in the heart of The Mercure Amiens Cathédrale
Amiens, which is just over an (www.mercure.com) has stylish
house the alleged skull of St John the Baptist, hour by car from Paris via the modern rooms, reserved parking,
brought back from Constantinople after the A16, A29 and A1. Regular trains and is very close to the cathedral
Fourth Crusade by Wallon de Sarton, Canon of run from Paris (1 hr 30 mins), and the Quartier St-Leu.
nearby Picquigny. or the TGV Haute-Picardie station When to Go
Boasting a 42-m- (138-ft-) high ceiling, an is 45 mins by bus from Amiens.
The illuminations are after dark,
Use buses or the self-service bike
enormous nave, four aisles and many radiating mid-Jun–Sep and in Dec, when
network, Vélam, to get around.
chapels, the cathedral is intensely luminous inside, there is also a superb Christmas
Where to Eat market. Gregorian chanting takes
making its counterpart in Paris look rather sombre. Le Quai (www.restaurant-le- place each Sun at 10:15am.
As a result, the array of statuary contained within quai.com) on the waterside in
Budget per Day for Two
its walls, such as the Stone Encyclopedia of the Bible the historic Quartier St-Leu,
serves seafood fresh from the Around £100 including meals
and the much-loved Angel of Sorrow, as well as the and accommodation.
Picardy coast and vegetables
16th-century carved choir stalls and Flamboyant
grown in the Hortillonnages, the Website
Gothic screen, are bathed in light. A sacred labyrinth nearby “floating” market gardens. www.visit-amiens.com
of 1288, in effect, an intricate black-and-white
141
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
MAIN IMAGE Central portal of Notre-Dame d’Amiens during the laser
illuminations BELOW (left to right) Lofty central nave of the cathedral;
Angel of Sorrow sculpture; the magnificent western façade
ABOVE Imposing bulk of the Great Mosque of Djenné, Mali, the largest adobe building in the world
RIGHT Shiny aluminium cladding lends a futuristic air to the Esplanade arts complex, Marina Bay, Singapore
GREAT MOSQUE OF DJENNÉ, MALI In the 13th century Djenné was an important ESPLANADE - THEATRES ON THE BAY, MARINA BAY, SINGAPORE Work began on
centre of Islamic study, and there has been a mosque on this site ever since. Although it this 4-ha (10-acre) entertainment complex in 1992, on reclaimed land at the mouth of the
looks ancient, the present mosque was only completed in 1907, replacing the original Singapore River. The design is said to express harmony with nature, reflecting the balance
which fell into disrepair during the 19th century. With a capacity of 3,000, it is the largest of Yin and Yang. However the spiky cladding on the aluminium sunshades that cover the
adobe building in the world, making use of local building techniques to combat heat glass casing of the theatre and the concert hall have led the centre to be nicknamed
and humidity, its thick walls helping to keep the interior prayer hall cool. Its qibla (prayer “The Durian”, owing to its resemblance to the skin of a local fruit. Fortunately, it doesn’t
wall), dominated by three minarets, overlooks the marketplace, facing east towards Mecca. have the fruit’s pungent smell, which led to a ban on eating durian on public transport.
PANAMA CANAL, PANAMA This colossal PUENTE DE LA MUJER, BUENOS AIRES, THE GOMATESHWARA STATUE, SHRAVANABELAGOLA, INDIA Once every 12 years,
feat of engineering, completed in 1914, ARGENTINA The “Women’s Bridge” was pilgrims from all over the world flock to Shravanabelagola for the Mastakabhisheka
provides a way through the 80-km- built in 1998 by Spanish architect Santiago festival, when the monolithic statue of Lord Gomateshwara, a revered Jain saint, is
(50-mile-) wide Central American isthmus. Calatrava in a bid to rejuvenate the city’s covered in ghee, coconut milk, turmeric, saffron, gold and flowers. The statue, more than
It enables access from the Atlantic to the docks. Angular yet graceful, it resembles 17 m (56 ft) tall and carved from a single block of white granite, was commissioned in
Pacific within hours, and accounts for a couple dancing the tango, bestowing the the 10th century by Chavundaraya, a commander in the Ganga dynasty. Beautiful
5 per cent of the world’s trade. area with a unique cultural symbol. engravings representing the commander and his daring exploits are carved on the base.
HEDDAL STAVKIRKE, HEDDAL, DAILY NEWS BUILDING, NEW YORK, PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CANBERRA,
NORWAY Built in the mid-13th century USA This 37-storey, flat-topped skyscraper AUSTRALIA A spirit of optimism is
with know-how handed down by Viking was the inspiration for the fictional Daily captured in Parliament House, set amid
boat-builders, Heddal’s “wooden cathedral” Planet, where Superman worked as sweeping lawns on the city’s Capital Hill.
is the largest stave church in Norway. journalist Clark Kent. Built in 1930, it is Designed by Italian architect Romaldo
Named after the wooden corner-posts characterized by vertical window strips Giurgola in 1988, it is recognizable from
on which it is based, its walls and beams separated by patterned brickwork. The afar by its boomerang-shaped roofs and
are fastened with wooden nails, and the bronze doors of the stunning Art Deco the colossal national flag raised on four
outer walls covered with tar. Inside are entrance are set beneath a bas-relief of towering legs above it, but much of the
some 14th-century wall paintings. hurrying office workers under a sunburst. 4,700-roomed building is underground.
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ABOVE Gleaming steel spheres of the Atomium, Brussels, the striking showpiece of the city’s 1958 World’s Fair
LEFT Sinuous design of the Fred and Ginger building, Prague, recalling the movement of a pair of dancers
FRED AND GINGER BUILDING, PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC Also called The Dancing ATOMIUM, BRUSSELS, BELGIUM The Atomium in Brussels’ Heysel Park was built for
House, Frank Gehry’s building beside the Vlatva river, finished in 1996, really does the 1958 World’s Fair. Resembling a giant executive toy, it represents an iron crystal
resemble a man and woman dancing together. In the sinuous shapes of the façade molecule, with each of the nine steel spheres symbolizing individual atoms. The spheres,
known as “the glass dress”, Ginger, leaning against her more upright partner, is more each 18 m (59 ft) in diameter, are connected by tubes containing escalators, and the
evident than Fred. The irregularly spaced windows appear to be doing a dance of their topmost one, at a height of 102 m (335 ft), offers visitors a panoramic view over the city
own and, as the sun reflects off the glass, the whole building seems to be moving, which and surrounding area. The structure underwent renovation in 2006, financed in part by
may explain its local nickname: The Drunk House. selling as souvenirs pieces of the metal sheeting that originally covered the spheres.
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL, BERLIN, SHIBAM, YEMEN Anyone stumbling unexpectedly on Shibam, glimmering in the sun,
GERMANY Unveiled in May 2005, 60 years might think they were seeing a mirage. Set in the Valley of Hadhramaut this city of
after the end of World War II, Peter Eisenman’s skyscrapers, known as the Manhattan of the Desert, has stood here for around 2,000
monument comprises 2,711 concrete slabs, years, although most of the buildings date from the 16th century. The narrow streets are
bearing no names or dates. Some are tiny, lined by six-storey, mud-built houses embellished with finely engraved wooden doors
some towering, and the effect, seen from and latticed windows. Although it is UNESCO-protected, this is not a museum but a
above, is that of a gently swelling sea. living city, home to around 7,000 people, whose families have lived here for generations.
ENNIS HOUSE, CALIFORNIA, USA Used MADRASAH MIR-I-ARAB, BUKHARA, CASA BATLLÓ, BARCELONA, SPAIN SHUKHOV TOWER, MOSCOW, RUSSIA
as a backdrop for several films, including UZBEKISTAN Built around 1535 in the With its sinuous curves and swirling shapes, Erected in the 1920s, this broadcasting
Blade Runner, Frank Lloyd Wright’s pre-cast historic centre of Bukhara, the madrasah Casa Batlló looks like a fairytale castle. tower should have been 350 m (1,150 ft)
concrete house sits in the Santa Monica is named after the Yemeni sheikh who While the balconies and pillars are said to tall, but never made it past 150 m (490 ft)
mountains overlooking Los Angeles. Built financed it, and whose tomb lies under resemble skulls and bones, the overall due to a shortage of steel during the Civil
in 1924, its design is heavily influenced by its northern dome. In the Shaybanid style effect of the façade is far from gloomy. War. Its designer, Vladimir Shukhov, was
ancient Mayan temples, with great halls, (the dynasty descended from Genghis Built in the 19th century, it was remodelled the first engineer to use the lattice-style
monumental columns and recurring Khan), its façade is dominated by two in 1905–7 by Antoni Gaudí, one of the technique to make the steel shell subject
geometrical decoration. It has recently luminous blue-tiled domes. It remained a fathers of Catalan Art Nouveau, and some to minimum wind load, the main design
been restored after earthquake damage. working Islamic school until 1920. consider it his masterpiece. challenge for high-rise structures.
CHURCH OF ST FRANCIS, BELO CN TOWER, TORONTO, CANADA Built AACHEN CATHEDRAL, GERMANY
HORIZONTE, BRAZIL Oscar Niemeyer’s in 1976 as a communications tower, the Dating from AD 805, Aachen is the oldest
glistening white church, with four CN Tower is a structure of superlatives. At cathedral in Northern Europe, and a
parabolic arches, commands a striking 555 m (1,815 ft) it is the tallest freestanding worthy celebration of Charlemagne’s
position on Pampulha Lake. It was finished structure in the Americas, has the world’s coronation as Roman Emperor – his
in 1943 but consecrated only in 1959, due longest metal staircase, and its second throne is just one of its medieval treasures.
to opposition from the archbishop, who highest public observation deck. It also The capella vitrea (glass chapel), built in
described it as “the devil’s bomb-shelter”. holds the dubious distinction of having the early 15th century to accommodate
A tiled mural on the north façade depicts been struck by lightning more times than vast numbers of pilgrims, is flooded with
scenes from the life of St Francis of Assisi. any other building in Toronto. light from its coloured glass windows.
144
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ABOVE The quirky church of Notre Dame du Haut, strikingly situated on a hilltop in Ronchamp, France
RIGHT Sir Norman Foster’s towering, elegant Millau Bridge spanning the Tarn Valley, southwest France
NOTRE DAME DU HAUT, RONCHAMP, FRANCE Le Corbusier’s snowy-white Notre THE MILLAU BRIDGE, TARN VALLEY, FRANCE Sir Norman Foster, architect of the
Dame du Haut church was built on the crest of a hill in 1955 on the site of a pilgrimage Millau Bridge, said that it was designed to have “the delicacy of a butterfly”. And so it has,
chapel destroyed during World War II. “Here we will build a monument dedicated to particularly when emerging from the morning mist, a perfect combination of strength
nature and we will make it our lives’ purpose”, said the architect. Constructed mainly of and subtlety. Seven slender piers support the road bridge, soaring up to align with seven
reinforced concrete, with thick walls punctuated by irregular stained-glass windows, the graceful steel pylons. Rising to 345 m (1,125 ft) at its highest point, this is the world’s
curvaceous building is topped by an upturned roof resembling a billowing sail. Among tallest road bridge. It was built with practicality in mind, to ease traffic and shorten the
its quirky details is an outdoor pulpit, used during open-air services. journey to the Mediterranean, but it could stand simply as a beautiful piece of engineering.
HIROSHIMA PEACE CENTER, JAPAN This is an awesome sight, a reminder of the horror TAIPEI 101, TAIPEI, CHINA Hailed as WORLD’S FAIR SITE, NEW YORK, USA
of nuclear devastation and hope for a peaceful future. Its centrepiece is the Genbaku one of the Seven New Wonders of the If anything symbolized the flamboyant,
Dome, which was the closest structure to withstand the atomic explosion on 6 August World, this 101-floor tower rises 510 m optimistic attitude of the 1964 World’s Fair,
1945. It has been preserved just as it was immediately after the bomb hit, the cladding of (1,670 ft) above the city. Made from it was the Unisphere. Celebrating the dawn
the dome melted away to reveal its raw steel skeleton. It is complemented by architect pliant steel, its slender pagoda-like of the Space Age, the huge model of Earth
Kenzo Tange’s Peace Center, a rectangular building raised on pillars, and the Peace structure combines ultra-modernity with stands in a pool surrounded by fountains,
Monument, a parabolic arch beneath which fresh flowers are constantly replenished. references to traditional Chinese culture. at the end of an avenue of national flags.
THE OMAYYAD MOSQUE, DAMASCUS, CRYSTAL CATHEDRAL, GARDEN KREMLIN, KAZAN, RUSSIA The word
SYRIA This is one of the oldest mosques GROVE, CALIFORNIA, USA “kremlin” actually means citadel, and
in Islam and one of the most beautiful. This huge evangelical church, which Kazan’s is a splendid example. Enclosed
Built in the 8th century, during Omayyad opened in 1980, is constructed of by white stone walls, it was begun under
rule, it was originally a place of worship mirrored glass and built on a steel frame Ivan the Terrible in the mid-16th century.
for both Muslims and Christians: Muslims in the shape of an elongated four-pointed Its oldest building is the five-aisled
prayed at the eastern side, Christians at star. The interior can accommodate 3,000 Annunciation Cathedral, but its newest
the west. Besides its fine courtyard, the worshippers. A section of the walls opens may be the finest: the Kul Sharif mosque,
most stunning features are the glorious to allow people to see and hear the dating from 2005, with its gleaming blue-
decorative mosaics that cover the walls. services from their cars. green cupola and delicate minarets.
RYUGYONG HOTEL, PYONGYANG, WIELICZKA SALT MINE, POLAND UNAM LIBRARY, MEXICO CITY,
NORTH KOREA Resembling a huge space Dating from the 13th century, this unusual MEXICO The library of Mexico’s National
rocket, the Ryugyong has been nicknamed UNESCO-listed site remained a working University, built in the early 1950s, houses
the “Hotel of Doom”. It was begun in mine until 1996. Its 300 km (185 miles) its books in a solid, windowless tower
1987, when it was intended to be the of galleries are home to a depiction of illuminated by artificial light. Wishing to
world’s tallest hotel at 330 m (1,085 ft), Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper, a statue imbue the building with truly Mexican
but has never been finished. Construction of Pope John Paul II, and a “crystal” character, designer Juan O’Gorman had
started again in 2008 but, due to chandelier, all carved in rock salt. The the external walls covered with intricate
structural defects and the enormous cost Chapel of St Kinga, patron saint of Poland, figurative mosaic murals in bold colours,
of completion, it’s unlikely to open soon. is one of several underground chapels. depicting Latin American themes.
145
ARCHITECTUR AL MARVELS
ABOVE The intricate filigree design of Beijing’s Bird’s Nest Stadium, icon of the 2008 Olympic Games,
shown off to dramatic effect when seen at night, illuminated from within
BIRD’S NEST STADIUM, BEIJING, CHINA With its filigree shell and twig-like structural REGISTAN, SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN The centrepiece of historic Samarkand
elements, the Beijing National Stadium, which became so familiar to so many during the (see p122) is the Registan, a beautifully proportioned group of madrasahs (schools)
2008 Olympic Games, really does resemble a giant bird’s nest. One of the many unusual adorned with majolica and mosaics. In the archway above the door of the 17th-century
features of the design involved filling the spaces between the “twigs” with inflatable Sher Dor Madrasah are mosaics of lions attacking deer – rare in Islamic art, which does
cushions to regulate the effects of wind and weather. The building has won not usually portray animals or human figures. Opposite stands the the sublime Ulughbek
environmental plaudits for incorporating a rainwater collection system and a translucent Madrasah, with its soaring columns and astronomical motifs. A third madrasah is named
roof that permits sunlight to penetrate so that the grass beneath can flourish. Tilla-Kari – “coated with gold” – for the gilding covering its dome and walls.
KUWAIT TOWERS These three towers KREMLIN, VELIKY NOVGOROD, RUSSIA Enclosed by red-brick walls, the Kremlin, also
are the lavish result of the 1970s oil known as the Detinets, sits at the heart of this ancient city on the banks of the Volkhov
boom. The highest, at 187 m (615 ft), is river. Built mainly in the early 16th century, it was one of the most impregnable citadels
adorned with two huge spheres, the upper in Russia. It now encloses a selection of buildings from various eras, ranging from the
one with a revolving viewing deck. The Gothic Granovitaya Palata (Chamber of Facets), dating from 1433, to the 19th-century,
second tower holds a water tank, and the bell-shaped Millennium of Russia Monument, which is crowned by a cross and the figure
shortest illuminates its taller neighbours. of a woman representing Russia.
MUSEU OSCAR NIEMEYER, CURITIBA, MELNIKOV HOUSE, MOSCOW, SALINE ROYALE, ARC-ET-SENANS, SEA RANCH CHAPEL, GUALALA,
BRAZIL Oscar Niemeyer, Brazil’s best- RUSSIA Russia’s great Constructivist FRANCE The Saline Royale (Royal CALIFORNIA, USA Resembling a huge
known architect, has had a long career; architect Konstantin Melnikov built this Saltworks) is a valuable example of early seashell, the non-denominational Sea
this museum opened in 2002 when he house for his family in the late 1920s, before industrial architecture. Construction of Ranch Chapel, dating from 1984, is a
was 95 years old. The annexe resembles a ceasing work in protest at having to the huge semicircular complex began in quirky place. Appealing but slightly kitsch,
great almond-shaped eye balanced atop conform to Stalinist style. One of his last 1775 under Louis XVI, financed by a salt it has a swooping cedar roof crowned
a broad yellow plinth, reflected in the pool projects, it comprises two intersecting tax so unpopular it is said to have been with a wavy spire resembling a peacock’s
in which it stands. Behind this stands the cylindrical towers: one admits light via a one cause of the French Revolution. It was plumage, lots of native redwood, and
long, low exhibition space, its smooth, flat glazed wall; the other is illuminated intended as the first step in creating an delicate stained-glass inserts in the roof,
clean lines typical of Niemeyer’s work. by a pattern of hexagonal windows. ideal city, but the plan was never realized. doors and windows to filter the light.
TWA FLIGHT CENTER, NEW YORK, USA VILLA MAJORELLE, NANCY, FRANCE SAADIAN TOMBS, MARRAKECH,
The graceful, free-flowing curves of Eero A combined effort of outstanding Art MOROCCO The tombs were built by
Saarinen’s futuristic Terminal 5 at JFK Nouveau craftmanship, the villa was Ahmad al-Mansur in the late 16th century,
Airport (now occupied by JetBlue commissioned by furniture-maker Louis but when Moulay Ismail came to power a
airlines) are a potent symbol of flight. Majorelle; Lucien Weissenburger and century later he had the entrances sealed,
Every aspect of it, from the wide windows Henri Sauvage designed the house, and and they remained so until 1917. Now
overlooking the tarmac to the cool Jacques Gruber the beautiful stained visitors can see what was hidden for so
outlines of the sweeping staircases glass. Majorelle himself produced the long: two stunning mausoleums housing
leading to elegant passenger lounges, furniture and the grand staircase, and more than 60 royal tombs, with intricate
recalls the days when flying was romantic. there are delightful details throughout. carvings and beautiful mosaic tiles.
natural wonders
Victoria water lilies in the Pantanal, Brazil (p182)
148
NATUR AL WONDER S
NATUR AL WONDER S
Devils Tower
vs Uluru
In the world of really big rocks, Devils Tower might not be the biggest (and neither is Uluru), but its
extraordinary, upreaching tree-stump profile consistently attracts and amazes admirers
NEED TO KNOW wore away this material to reveal the geological field, where you’ll find mice, chipmunks and snakes
marvel we see today – a flat-topped monolith made in abundance and fantastic views in every direction.
LOCATION Devils Tower lies in
Devils Tower National Monument $"/"%"
up of hexagonal columns that look like a cluster of Those who have no plans to dangle on a rope
4FBUUMF
in Wyoming, 100 km (60 miles) giant pencils standing on end. The rock is sacred to from Devils Tower will find their own brand of fun
northeast of Gillette %&7*-4
508&3 /FX:PSL
the area’s indigenous people, who believe its many just watching the rock in all its majestic, solitary
HEIGHT 264 m (867 ft) 4BO'SBODJTDP
8BTIJOHUPO
%$ rifts and channels to be the ancient claw marks of a glory, as it catches and reflects sunlight from
BASE CIRCUMFERENCE -PT"OHFMFT
1.6 km (1 mile)
64" giant bear. Devils Tower might not be as large as infinite angles throughout the day. A walk along
DAYTIME Uluru, but it certainly vies with Australia’s fabled red the trail that circles the base of the tower offers
TEMPERATURES .&9*$0 rock when it comes to spirit-stirring allure. hikers the opportunity to spot the deer, pronghorn
Jan: -6°C (21°F); Apr: 5°C (41°F); Devils Tower is made up of hard volcanic rock antelopes, coyotes and porcupines that inhabit the
Jul: 20°C (68°F); Oct: 8°C (46°F)
called phonolite porphyry – a substance so dense surrounding ponderosa pine forests and plains.
that it rings when even a small piece is struck. This At the base of the tower lies the rubble of the
Devils Tower, an imposing stack of rock that stands solidity, along with its countless cracks, makes stone columns that have fallen over time. Although
guard over Wyoming’s Black Hills, is one of nature’s the sheer rock face ideal for climbing. It was first geologists estimate that the last collapse occurred
finest sculptures. The soaring monument, formed scaled in 1893 by a rancher who used ladders hung around 10,000 years ago, the tower is still slowly
some 50–60 million years ago from magma that from pegs that were driven into the cracks. Today, being eroded and the sedimentary base carried
was forced up from beneath the earth’s surface, 4–5,000 people attempt the ascent every year, but bit by bit into the Belle Fourche River – a subtle
was originally concealed by a layer of sedimentary only about half make it to the summit – a deceptively reminder to visitors that even something as
sandstone and silt. Erosion over millions of years small plateau that is actually the size of a football timeless as Devils Tower is forever changing.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET ULURU?
Getting There and Around Lodge (www.devilstowerlodge.
THE BUILD-UP Uluru (also known as Ayers Rock) is From Gillette, where there is a com), which has four rooms
Australia’s most recognizable natural feature. As regional airport with connecting and a hot tub. At just 700 m
impressive as its 348-m (1,140-ft) height and 10-km services to major airports, the (766 yards) away from the tower,
(6-mile) circumference are, it’s even more astounding best way to get to Devils Tower this is a great place to watch the
to think that most of its bulk lies underground. National Monument is to hire a moon rise over the rock or see it
Uluru’s sandstone surface changes shade throughout car and take Highway I-90 east bathed in light at sunrise.
the day, glowing a dazzling, fiery red at sunset. to Moorcroft. Devils Tower is only
When to Go
48 km (30 miles) north of here.
Devils Tower National Monument
THE LETDOWN Although the great red rock is Where to Eat is open all year, but the visitor
still a popular tourist attraction, visited by around One of the best restaurants in centre is only open from mid-April
ABOVE A tour group at Uluru, Australia
350,000 people every year, climbing Uluru is now Hulett, which is 15 km (9 miles) to November. Visitors are asked
officially discouraged. The local Anangu people have a spiritual connection to Uluru and ask visitors to respect to the north of Devils Tower, is
not to climb the tower in June,
their beliefs and culture. While in 1990 about 74 per cent of visitors followed the chain handhold to make the Ponderosa Cafe and Bar (www.
when tribal ceremonies take place.
theponderosacafe.com), known
hour-long climb to the summit, today only about 38 per cent of people attempt the climb. Budget per Day for Two
for its tasty steaks and prime rib.
Where to Stay
£130 including entrance to the
GOING ANYWAY? If you still want to visit Uluru, then do so with a purpose other than climbing it. Photograph park, accommodation and food.
There are several places to stay in
the rock from a distance, visit the Cultural Centre to discover the richness of Anangu history, culture, language
Hulett, but for a more atmospheric Website
and religion, walk around the rock’s enormous base or participate in a ranger-guided walk. experience, head to Devils Tower www.nps.gov/deto
150
NATUR AL WONDER S 6 MORE ROCK FORMATIONS TO RIVAL ULURU
NATUR AL WONDER S
Towering Peña de Bernal, Mexico Stone Mountain with its enormous carving, Georgia, USA
The Orinoco
vs the Amazon
ABOVE A row of Amazon tour boats waiting to cast off
The Orinoco symbolizes all that is mysterious, wild and wonderful in South America,
and makes for a spectacular alternative to the over-visited Amazon FORGET THE
AMAZON?
and Venezuela. Even now there remains some THE BUILD-UP There’s no doubt that the
NEED TO KNOW
Amazon, a long-time favourite with explorers,
doubt about the river’s true source, and several
LOCATION Originating in
$BSJCCFBO4FB remains a big draw for travellers. It is, after all,
of its tributaries have yet to be explored.
southern Venezuela, the river a superlative among rivers: it is the longest river
runs north along the border $BSBDBT What makes the Orinoco so impressive is the in South America (some say the world), has
with Colombia and then east 4BO 7&/&;6&-" incredible diversity of microclimates, fauna, flora and
across Venezuela to the sea $SJTUØCBM
the largest drainage basin on earth, and, by
$JVEBE
(VBZBOB terrain, which fall within its enormous basin – an dint of its sheer size, is home to a staggering
LENGTH 03*/0$0
2,735 km (1,699 miles) 3*7&3 area of more than 880,000 sq km (340,000 sq miles). array of flora and fauna.
$0-0.#*"
CLIMATE Temperatures range Though the Amazon boasts remarkable biological
from 27°C (81°F) to 31°C (88°F); richness, much of the river is either inaccessible or THE LETDOWN But what will you really have
the Orinoco is much less humid #3";*-
a chance to see here? The few towns teem with
than most tropical rivers prohibitively expensive to reach, while the Orinoco
– which is navigable for most of its length, unlike tour operators and travel agencies, all of which
the Amazon – is easily seen and explored. Keep your charge top-end prices, but few of which deliver.
Hardly any of these tour operators are located
The Orinoco will not fail to delight even the most eyes peeled and you’re likely to spot alligators, pink
on the river. And then there’s the Amazon itself
jaded traveller. The Amazon may be bigger and dolphins, boa constrictors, herons, howler monkeys
– unlike the Orinoco, parts of it are literally
better known, but it doesn’t provide direct access and pumas. The Orinoco protects one of the last impassable, and the foliage is often so dense that
to the continent’s most astonishing wildlife and pristine ecosystems on the planet, and boasts the you may not be able to see much of anything.
scenery the way the Orinoco does. This mighty highest biodiversity rate of any river system. Nearly
river system is home to some of the world’s most a dozen new species are discovered along its banks GOING ANYWAY? For those who feel they
biodiverse ecosystems, and runs a breathtaking every month. And the river’s mouth, the Orinoco must see the Amazon at all costs, one option is
topographical gamut, from tall mountains and Delta, is thought to be the continent’s richest area to fly to Manaus in Brazil, and start the journey
tropical forests to humid llanos (plains) and marshy in aquatic biodiversity. At last count, this still largely there. The city’s central location and innumerable
deltas, before finally emptying into the Atlantic. uncharted river was home to more than 10,000 tour operators will make your planning easier.
For centuries this mysterious river has intrigued plant species, 1,400 bird species, 1,200 fish species,
explorers and adventurers. The mouth of the and at least 340 different types of mammal. You
Orinoco was sighted by Columbus in 1498, but won’t find those numbers anywhere else on earth.
it was not until the 1950s that explorers finally
stumbled upon its headwaters at Cerro Delgado- PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Chalbaud, one of the most remote spots in the
western hemisphere, located high up in the Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Parima Mountains on the border between Brazil Many travellers choose to start Although you’ll probably spend
their trip at the mouth of the most nights on the boat, the town
river, which is northeast of Ciudad of Caicara de Orinoco, 600 km
Guyana in Venezuela, and stock (373 miles) southwest of Ciudad
up on provisions in the city. There Guyana, is a perfect stopover point.
are many reputable tour operators The Hotel Miami (tel. +58 35 67
here, who will take you around 587) here is comfortable and
some remarkable sights, including inexpensive, and is also only a
picturesque waterfalls and pools, stone’s throw from the town’s
before you get to the river. best restaurant, Caicara de Orinoco.
Where to Eat When to Go
On a river excursion like this you The best time to visit is in
will probably have your own food September, when humidity is at
on board. However, it’s likely that its lowest and you have a good
you will stop off at several towns chance of seeing wildlife.
along the river, where you’ll have
the chance to sample local food Budget per Day for Two
ranging from traditional chicken- Roughly £100, depending on
and rice-based dishes to more your tour operator.
exotic flavours, including ostrich Website
and even piranha. www.miamisci.org/orinoco
ABOVE The Orinoco meandering through lush forest, Venezuela
153
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Dramatic Llovizna Falls, on an Orinoco tributary
BELOW (left to right) Orinoco turtle with a butterfly on its head;
paddling on the river; vividly coloured scarlet ibis
MAIN IMAGE The town of Puerto Varas with Osorno volcano in the background
BELOW (left to right) Patio at Hotel Antumalal in Pucón; the smouldering
summit of Villarrica volcano; Geométricas Hot Springs, Villarrica National Park
155
NATUR AL WONDER S
The Chilean Lakes
vs the Italian Lakes
Italy’s magnificent lakes are synonymous with moneyed elegance, yet when it comes to
natural splendour, they are no match for Chile’s spectacular volcanic wonders
NEED TO KNOW beautiful land of fire and sapphire water has been
a source of legend for millennia.
LOCATION The Chilean 4BOUJBHP
lakes are in the south of the
Journey through Chile’s Lake District, anchored
"3(&/5*/"
country, 677 km (421 miles) $)*-&
in its north by Temuco and in its south by Puerto
from the capital, Santiago Montt, and you’ll encounter rare primordial beauty.
-",&
NUMBER OF %*453*$5 The region takes its name from the magical lakes
LAKES 20
DAYTIME 1BDJmD "UMBOUJD
0DFBO
that spread across its entirety, their expansive,
0DFBO
TEMPERATURES deep-blue waters lying serenely at the feet of
Jan: 17°C (63°F); Apr: 13°C soaring volcanoes. Picturesque towns, dotted with
(55°F); Jul: 8°C (46°F); 1VOUB"SFOBT
Oct: 12°C (54°F) 6TIVBJB plazas and the spires of churches built by the German ABOVE Monkey-puzzle trees on a hillside in the Chilean Lake District
communities that settled here in the 19th century,
overlook the lakeshores and make for romantic where you can laze in hot springs that bubble up
Beautiful though the lakes of northern Italy stopovers. Trails run from these towns to lakeside from beneath the earth’s crust. Horse-rides on these
are, ringed by tall mountains and overlooked by beaches of black volcanic and fine white sand, slopes reveal virgin forest with hidden waterfalls,
luxurious villas and medieval castles, their allure skirting around lush forest along the way. A barefoot gushing streams and ancient woods of monkey-
pales when compared to the dramatic lakes of walk across the sand, beneath green forest and puzzle trees. Hiking trails lead to the summits of
southern Chile. Travel to the world’s end and dramatic smoking peaks, inspires a childlike delight; the great Villarrica and Osorno volcanoes, sacred to
you’ll discover a fairy-tale region of shimmering a sensation of closeness to nature that intensifies the Mapuche, the proud native people of the Lake
blue water, emerald forest, Andean peaks and on sinking into the warm, mineral-rich lake water. District. Peering into their bubbling craters at
steaming hot springs that bubble beneath This sense of being in an untamed, elemental spitting gases and glowing magma, the sensation
smouldering volcanoes. Italy’s lakes may have place is accentuated on the volcanic slopes that is one of gazing into the very heart of the earth.
inspired the Romantic poets, but Chile’s overlook the lakes. Roads lead to mountain spas,
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around La Maga (tel. +56 45 444 277)
FORGET THE ITALIAN LAKES? International flights land at Chile’s serves some of the region’s best
capital city, Santiago, from where cuisine.
THE BUILD-UP Loved by everyone from Roman emperors and flights depart daily for Temuco. Where to Stay
the Romantic poets to Hollywood actor George Clooney, who Maquehue Airport is a 7-km (4- Overlooking Lake Villarrica in
owns a villa on Lake Como, Italy’s lakes have seduced visitors for mile) taxi ride from Temuco’s city Pucón, Hotel Antumalal (www.
centuries. Classical villas and turreted castles dot the perimeters centre. Buses are a good way of antumalal.com), built in the
of the lakes here and picture-perfect towns spill down to their travelling around the region, but Bauhaus style, boasts a luxury
shorelines. Close to Milan and Verona, they are easily accessed. a car is essential if you want to spa and suites with stunning
explore more freely. Bikes are great lake views.
for exploring towns and lakeshores
THE LETDOWN The region’s easy access means that it swarms When to Go
and horse-riding through forests
with tourists come high season, when restaurant prices soar can be breathtaking. Visit between December
higher than the surrounding peaks, driving tours of the lakes and February, the southern
Where to Eat hemisphere’s summer, when
turn into gruelling ordeals and cafés have standing room only. Delicious regional specialities
Wordsworth described Italy’s lakes as “a treasure the earth keeps days are long and warm and
include freshwater trout and the lakes look magnificent.
to itself ”. Unfortunately, this is no longer the case. salmon, game and, in coastal
ABOVE The sandy shore of Lake Garda heaving with cities, seafood. Have a quality Budget per Day for Two
GOING ANYWAY? The best time to visit the lakes is outside the sun-worshippers, Italy Chilean wine or a local bock £230 per day, to cover luxury
beer with your meal, followed hotel and spa accommodation,
high season, which runs from early June to September. If you’re booking a stay at one of the bigger lakes, choose
by a German dessert and a food, car hire and excursion costs.
a small town with authentic Italian appeal rather than a resort – Maclesine on Lake Garda or Varenna on Lake
Como are recommended. Consider too a smaller lake destination, such as picturesque Lake Iseo. glass of Pisco Sour, Chile’s Website
national drink. In Pucón, www.sernatur.cl
156
NATUR AL WONDER S 5 MORE LAKE REGIONS TO RIVAL ITALY’S LAKES
LOCATION Lakes Bled and Bohinj LOCATION Plitvice Lakes LOCATION Lake Balaton is
lie in northwest Slovenia, 45 km "6453*" National Park is 110 km 4-07&/*" 95 km (59 miles) southwest of
;BHSFC
(28 miles) from Austria and Italy (68 miles) southwest of Hungary’s capital, Budapest 4-07",*"
$ 3 0 "5 * "
and 55 km (34 miles) from the (-"$*"- .BSJCPS Croatia’s capital city, Zagreb NUMBER OF LAKES
capital, Ljubljana -",&4
NUMBER OF 1-*57*$&-",&4 One main lake and #VEBQFTU
%FCSFDFO
NUMBER OF LAKES Two -KVCMKBOB LAKES 16 countless crater lakes
)6/("3:
big lakes and many smaller pools 4-07&/*" DAYTIME #04/*" DAYTIME
)&3;&(07*/" -",&#"-"50/
DAYTIME 1PTUPKOB TEMPERATURES 4QMJU TEMPERATURES
TEMPERATURES DSPBUJB Jan: -1°C (30°F); Apr: 11°C "ESJBUJD
Jan: -2°C (28°F); Apr: 15°C 1ÏDT 30."/*"
Jan: -1°C (30°F); Apr: 11°C (52°F); (52°F); Jul: 22°C (72°F); 4FB (59°F); Jul: 28°C (82°F); $30"5*"
Jul: 19°C (66°F); Oct: 7°C (45°F) Oct: 13°C (55°F) %VCSPWOJL Oct: 10°C (50°F)
If you think the Italian lakes are romantic, you’ll Nature’s own champagne pyramid, Croatia’s Plitvice Affectionately known as “the Hungarian Sea”,
love the picture-book prettiness of Slovenia’s Lakes are arranged on stepped limestone terraces beautiful Lake Balaton is the largest of all central
glacial lakes. With the majestic Julian Alps as its that are linked to one another by a series of rapids Europe’s lakes, and also one of the most diverse.
backdrop, Lake Bled, a vivid turquoise tongue of and waterfalls. The views across these overflowing A 170-km (105-mile) shoreline fringes this expanse
water ringed by thick forest and stunning snow- pools and sparkling white cascades to Eden-like of green water, offering something for everyone.
streaked mountains, is the must-see here. There emerald forest are mesmerizing. The lakes change The southern shore boasts sandy beaches,
are superb views across the lakeshore to a fairy- hue constantly, from deep blue to azure, green shallow water, family-friendly resorts and lively
tale castle of medieval turrets and ramparts. At and grey, according to sunlight and changing beachside nightclubs. But it’s the northern shore
the centre of the lake, a 17th-century “floating” mineral content. These tumbling pools lie in that utterly beguiles, its volcanic hills studded
church stands on a tiny island reached by gondola. Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World with geyser cones, crater lakes and wine caves.
It’s a romantic place, and should be coupled with Heritage Site, which is also home to threatened Nearby, pretty medieval towns and the centuries-
a trip to nearby Lake Bohinj, a body of crystal-clear fauna, including bears, wolves and lynx. old spas of the Tihany Peninsula beckon.
water overlooked by woodland and jagged peaks.
Practical Information Practical Information
Practical Information Getting There and Around International flights arrive at Zagreb, from Getting There and Around FlyBalaton International Airport lies on the shore of
Getting There and Around International flights arrive at Ljubljana. Trains where buses and coaches run to the national park. The best way to get the lake. Shuttle buses run from here to the lakeside towns. Regular ferries and
and buses run from the airport to Triglav National Park, where the lakes are around the lakes is by hiking, but there are also boat and bus services. buses serve the lake, though car hire is wise if you want to explore more freely.
found. The motorway journey from the airport takes an hour. An hourly bus When to Go Aim to travel here in late September, when temperatures are When to Go Visit between June and August for summer sun and warm water.
service runs between the two lakes, which are 25 km (16 miles) apart. pleasant and the autumn colours truly amazing. Website www.gotohungary.co.uk
When to Go Visit in June and July for long days and blissfully few tourists. Website www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr
Website www.bled.si Rowing boats moored on the shores of Lake Balaton, Hungary
The tumbling aquamarine waters of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
Church of the Assumption of Mary on Lake Bled, Slovenia
157
NATUR AL WONDER S
Band-e Amir Lakes, Kerala’s Lakes
Afghanistan and Backwaters
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION The Band-e Amir LOCATION Alleppey, in the
Lakes are in Afghanistan’s heart of Kerala’s backwaters, 1",*45"/
Hindu Kush mountain range, 563,.&/*45"/ is about 65 km (40 miles) %FMIJ
/&1"-
vs the Grand Canyon ranks among the most famous sights on earth. It
was formed over millions of years and measures
a huge 446 km (277 miles) long, up to 29 km
Utah’s dazzling Bryce Canyon is a unique, extraordinary wonderland, on a much (18 miles) wide and 2 km (1 mile) deep.
more human scale than Arizona’s huge and intimidating Grand Canyon THE LETDOWN Five million visitors flock to the
Grand Canyon every year, but sadly almost all
head to the same crowded, commercialized spot
NEED TO KNOW A level walkway along the edge of the largest on its South Rim, known as Grand Canyon
amphitheatre at Bryce makes it easy for people to Village. Crammed into the hectic look-out points
LOCATION Bryce Canyon and dwarfed by the colossal, silent chasm, they
stands 2,440 m (8,000 ft) above $"/"%"
admire the awesome rock formations en masse.
Specific look-out points identified along this path experience the canyon as a remote spectacle. Those
sea level in southwest Utah
few who hike into it face a very challenging task
VISITORS PER boast particularly good views at sunset and
YEAR 1.75 million #3:$& /FX:PSL – getting down to the Colorado River and back
$"/:0/
sunrise, when the landscape seems to glow like a
AREA 8BTIJOHUPO%$
requires a two-day backpacking expedition.
145 sq km (56 sq miles) -PT"OHFMFT
vast furnace. Unlike the Grand Canyon, an hour-
64"
DAYTIME long hike here can lead you into the very heart of GOING ANYWAY? If you’re determined to go,
TEMPERATURES the monolithic labyrinth. Several straightforward consider visiting the quieter North Rim, where
Jan: 4°C (39°F); Apr: 13°C (56°F); (VMGPG
Jul: 28°C (83°F); Oct: 17°C (63°F)
.&9*$0 .FYJDP trails thread their way down to and among the a lovely lodge stands at the canyon’s edge.
most dramatic hoodoos. Walking in the perpetual Alternatively, take a 193-km (120-mile) trip
shade of the canyon’s floor, along narrow footpaths down dirt roads to remote Toroweap Point,
Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of squeezed between looming orange rocks and where you can stare straight down a sheer
Bryce Canyon. It’s as though the top layer of the implausibly slender pinnacles, is a truly mind- 914-m (3,000-ft) cliff to the river.
earth has been ripped back to reveal a landscape boggling experience. In many places, the trails cut
full of incandescent orange, yellow and red right into the rock, through dramatic tunnels and
columns jostling for position beneath the surface. underneath archways, leading you to new and
It is such a splendid sight that even the colossal astonishing vistas at every turn.
Grand Canyon pales in comparison. The local Paiute
people called Bryce Canyon Unkatimpe-wa-Wince- PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Pockich – “red rocks standing like men in a bowl-
shaped recess” – but its modern name comes from Getting There and Around 1920s furnishings, has luxury
a 19th-century Mormon rancher, Ebenezer Bryce, The nearest major airports to suites, individual log cabins and
Bryce Canyon are at Las Vegas, motel rooms. It is set back 100 m
who laconically observed that his new home was 435 km (270 miles) to the (328 ft) from the rim, and is open
“a helluva place to lose a cow”. southwest, and Salt Lake City, the in summer only (Apr–Oct).
Despite its name, Bryce is not actually a canyon same distance to the north.The When to Go
at all, but a succession of spectacular natural only way to get here is to drive,
Unlike much of Utah and the
though free shuttle buses tour
amphitheatres chiselled out of a high, pine-forested Grand Canyon, Bryce remains
the park itself. The park’s entrance
plateau by eternities of ice, water and wind erosion. is at its northern end. cool enough in summer for
hiking to be a pleasure. While in-
Most visitors get their first glimpse of Bryce from the Where to Eat park facilities close in winter, the
rim on its western edge, and, because there is no Typical American diners are found park itself remains open, and
corresponding rim opposite, the views from this near the park entrance, but the looks more surreally beautiful
best place to eat is in the rustic than ever when veiled in snow.
point are breathtaking. Below you lies the canyon,
dining room at the Bryce Canyon
decorated in a palette of lurid hues. Many of its Lodge (see Where to Stay), which Budget per Day for Two
sandstone forms are hoodoos – extraordinary pillars serves three meals daily. Steaks Anything from £75 to £135 for
created over thousands of years as soft rock has and chops are the speciality here. food, accommodation and park
entry (which is £17 per car). Car
crumbled away from hard rock, leaving sturdy Where to Stay
rental is a further £20 per day.
boulders balanced precariously atop pencil-thin The comfortable Bryce Canyon
Lodge (www.brycecanyonlodge. Website
shafts of petrified sand. Beyond the canyon, a com), still kitted out in its original www.nps.gov/brca
desolate plain stretches as far as the eye can see.
159
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Bryce Canyon in all its fiery glory
BELOW (left to right) Snow atop a natural archway;
hikers on the Mossy Cave Trail
FORGET THE
NORWEGIAN FJORDS?
THE BUILD-UP Designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, Norway’s fjords are some of the
world’s longest and deepest, including
Sognefjord, Hardangerfjord and Geirangerfjord.
The beautiful, rugged landscape is also a big
draw to this region.
ABOVE A boat sailing past a mountain of ice, part of the Darwin
Mountains, Tierra del Fuego, Chile THE LETDOWN Having fallen victim to their
own beauty, these fjords play host to thousands
of tourists each year. Sightseers throng them,
The through a labyrinthine network of channels, islets
and inlets. As you sail, the extreme beauty of the
kayakers paddle them, base-jumpers chuck
themselves into them and the plain lazy drive
fjords reveals itself. Mountains rise precipitously out through them. Search for silent majesty and you
Patagonian of the sea, glacier after gorgeous glacier cascades
down rock faces and waterfalls plunge into deep
find cruise ships. The landscape is marred by a
new power line – the world’s second longest –
channels. Boat excursions magnify this thrilling straddling Sognefjord.
Fjords drama that unfolds at water level – approaching
the great Glaciar Pía, visitors can watch in wonder GOING ANYWAY? Head for Norway’s less-
vs the Norwegian Fjords as one giant block of turquoise ice after another visited Naeroyfjord and Lysefjord. The latter is
calves from the glacier’s face into the Pía Fjord in a overlooked by the stunning 600-m- (1,970-ft-)
high Pulpit Rock.
A magical world of water and ice, Patagonia’s concerto of thunderous cracks and booms.
fjords eclipse Norway’s famous waterways Small boat excursions also bring you incredibly
close to some spectacular marine wildlife. In the
escort of playful dolphins, you skirt the shorelines
NEED TO KNOW of coves and islets where enormous elephant seals
slumber and smaller sea lions bask. Onshore, hikes
LOCATION The fjords form
part of the archipelago at the
4BOUJBHP reveal lush forest and cross-sheltered beaches
southernmost tip of the American "3(&/5*/" where thousands of cute Magellanic penguins and
continent, Tierra del Fuego, shared cormorants form their nesting colonies.
between Chile and Argentina $)*-&
After four days of navigating sheltered waters,
VISITORS PER YEAR "UMBOUJD
12,000 1BDJmD
0DFBO you reach the desolately beautiful Cape Horn.
DAYTIME 0DFBO Here, looking out across the Cape to where the ABOVE Queues of vehicles lined up for loading into car
TEMPERATURES ferries at Hella, Sognefjord
Atlantic and Pacific oceans collide, one is struck by
Jan: 11°C (52°F); Apr: 7°C (45°F);
Jul: 2°C (36°F); Oct: 7°C (45°F) 1VOUB"SFOBT 1"5"(0/*"/ the utter remoteness of the place. Ice-floes pepper
'+03%4
the powerful sea and the howling winds that once
thwarted so many expeditions here lash against
At the bottom of the Earth lies a dazzling world of steep, ragged cliffs. It’s not difficult to believe that
hanging glaciers, floating icebergs, gushing Antarctica and the ends of the Earth are just PRACTICAL INFORMATION
waterfalls and towering peaks that rise sheer from 830 km (500 miles) away.
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
blue-green seas. The Patagonian Fjords may sound There are daily flights from In Punta Arenas, stay at Hotel
fantastical but their existence is real, and the drama Santiago to Punta Arenas in Nogueira (www.hotelnogueira.
of their unspoiled beauty eclipses even that of southern Chile, the departure com). Mare Australis boats have
Norway’s well-visited waterways. Accessible by point for cruises to the three cabin categories. Book
luxury sailboat only, these haunting wonders Patagonian fjords. Four-night ahead for cheaper options.
cruises sail to Cape Horn before
receive just 12,000 visitors each year – a fraction of When to Go
disembarking at Ushuaia in
the number that descends on their Norwegian January or February, when days
Argentina. Seven-night cruises
are long and wildlife abundant.
rivals. For the few that sail their waters southwards return to Punta Arenas.
Budget for Two
to mythical Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos) and the Where to Eat
La Leyenda del Remezón (tel. £4,200 for a 7-night cruise
world’s end, the sensation is one of awe. including boat excursions and
The Patagonian Fjords experience begins in the +56 61 241 029) in Punta
Arenas offers fresh seafood. onboard activities.
city of Punta Arenas in Chile, from where cruise Meals on board are four-course Website
ships cross the legendary Magellan Strait (Estrecho affairs served with Chilean wines. www.australis.com
de Magallanes) and float south to the Cape ABOVE A sea lion perched on a rock, Beagle Channel
161
NATUR AL WONDER S
FORGET THE
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS?
THE BUILD-UP These volcanic isles in the
Pacific Ocean 1,000 km (600 miles) west of
Ecuador, are renowned for their remarkable
island ecosystems. Nowhere in the world would
one have quite the same up-close-and-personal
Fernando ABOVE A shoal of black margates swimming amid the coral reefs in the
depths around Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
encounters with wildlife, with the intimacy of
travelling between islands by boat.
NATUR AL WONDER S
Western Uganda Reserves
vs Kruger National Park
The wide waterways, tangled jungles and open plains of Western Uganda make up Africa’s most
biodiverse safari destination, an unspoilt alternative to the more famous Kruger
NEED TO KNOW waterways dense with hippos and elephants, and nature-lovers face to face with hippos, buffalos,
exploring the open plains where lions eye herds elephants, pelicans and waterfowl, while the
LOCATION The reserves are
in the Western Rift Valley near
of grazing antelopes. fringing woodland is one of the most reliable
DEM. REP. Gulu
the Congolese border, west of CONGO In the south of the region is the dense mountain places on earth to spot giant forest hogs. The
the capital, Kampala Lake
Albert UGANDA rainforest of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, remote Ishasha Plains are justly renowned for
AREA Bwindi: 330 sq km which protects about half the world’s remaining their tree-climbing lions, while elsewhere patches
(125 sq miles); Kibale: 765 sq km Kampala
(295 sq miles); Queen Elizabeth: WESTERN mountain gorillas. Staring into the deep brown eyes of dense forest enclose saline crater lakes tinged
1,980 sq km (765 sq miles); Murchison UGANDA of one of these gentle giants is a uniquely fulfilling pink by thousands of flamingos.
Falls: 3,840 sq km (1,485 sq miles) RESERVES
Lake
Victoria
experience. Consider heading further north to the To the far north lies Murchison Falls National
KEY WILDLIFE Mountain gorillas, Kabale
chimpanzees, elephants, giant forest hogs lowland forest of Kibale Forest National Park, one of Park, which is Uganda’s largest national park.
Africa’s top chimp-tracking destinations. Its dense Daily boat trips follow the Nile, its banks lined
canopy is also home to the continent’s highest with grunting hippos and gaping crocodiles, to
Western Uganda receives far fewer tourists than concentration of monkeys, including the acrobatic the base of Murchison Falls, where the world’s
Kruger, but it surpasses all other safari destinations red colobus and black-and-white colobus. longest river erupts through a cleft in the Rift
for sheer biodiversity. Here, where the East African On the Rift Valley floor between Bwindi and Valley escarpment in a deafening white plume.
savanna meets the West African rainforest – or less Kibale lies Queen Elizabeth National Park, where Lions, giraffes, elephants, buffalos and various
prosaically, where Hemingway’s safari country savannah, forest and aquatic habitats converge to types of antelope inhabit the palm-studded
meets Tarzan’s jungle – a quartet of superb national create a riot of biodiversity attested to by a bird grassland north of the delta where the Nile flows
parks promises visitors close-up encounters with checklist of 600-plus species, the most recorded in into Lake Albert, which is also a famous haunt of
some of Africa’s most iconic wildlife. Imagine any African national park. Boat trips on the Kazinga the distinctive-looking shoebill, one of the most
hiking to within metres of mighty mountain Channel, with the snow-capped Rwenzori eagerly sought birds in Africa.
gorillas and chimpanzees, navigating tropical Mountains looming high on the horizon, bring
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET KRUGER? Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Entebbe International Airport, The park’s lodges and camps
THE BUILD-UP The size of a small European country, 30 km (19 miles) south of the tend to be small and intimate in
Kruger is South Africa’s largest national park, and capital Kampala, is the main character. Popular options are
one of the most famous wildlife sanctuaries in the port of entry to Uganda. From Mweya Lodge (see Where to
world. The mammal checklist of 150 species exceeds here, most visitors explore the Eat), Kibale Primate Lodge
that of any other African park, and its scrubby plains western parks by road over one (www.ugandalodges.com),
or two weeks – private safaris Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge (www.
are home to more than 13,000 elephants and can be arranged through several volcanoessafaris.com), and
25,000 buffalos, alongside high concentrations of operators in Kampala. Bwindi, Paraa Lodge in Murchison Falls
lions, leopards, rhinos and other safari favourites. Kibale Forest and Queen (www.paraalodge.com).
Elizabeth can also all be reached
When to Go
THE LETDOWN Organised safaris to this immense via public transport.
ABOVE Safari vehicles clogging the road, Kruger National Park, Any time, though the wettest
park almost invariably focus on the southern quarter, South Africa Where to Eat months (Apr, May, Oct, Nov) make
which is the closest sector to Johannesburg and The camps and lodges in the gorilla- and chimp-tracking hard.
intensely developed for tourism. As a result, the roads carry too much traffic and big-cat sightings attract dozens national parks all serve food.
Budget per Day for Two
of vehicles jostling for the best place, transforming what should be a wilderness into something more like a car park. The best à la carte restaurant in
any of the parks, with a cuisine £200–300 for an all-inclusive
reflecting its Indian ownership, organized safari. Gorilla-tracking
GOING ANYWAY? The crowds can be avoided in Kruger if you hire your own car and use dirt side roads in permits cost US$500.
is at Mweya Lodge (www.
favour of surfaced trunk roads. You can also focus your attention on the under-explored central and northern mweyalodge.com) in Queen Website
regions, and stay in low-key camps such as Letaba, Shingwedzi and Punda Maria. Elizabeth National Park. www.uwa.or.ug
164
NATUR AL WONDER S 6 MORE SAFARI PARKS TO RIVAL KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
Samburu
Hluhluwe- A bare-branched baobab tree drenched in evening sunlight, Ruaha
National Park, Tanzania
National Reserve
Imfolozi Game
Ruaha National
Reserve
NEED TO KNOW
Park
&5)*01*"
LOCATION Samburu National
-BLF
Reserve flanks the Ewaso 5VSLBOB
NEED TO KNOW Nyiro river in north-central
Kenya, about 1 hour by
NEED TO KNOW 6("/%" 4".#636
LOCATION Hluhluwe-Imfolozi #0548"/"
(appallingly rutted) /"5*0/"-
Game Reserve is in the north ,AKE road from Isiolo ,JTVNV 3&4&37&
/".*#*" LOCATION Ruaha National Park 6ICTORIA ,&/:" ,&/:"
of South Africa’s KwaZulu- 1SFUPSJB is in central Tanzania, bounded AREA -BLF
7JDUPSJB
Natal province, about by the Great Ruaha River, 390 sq km (150 sq miles) /BJSPCJ
50 km (30 miles) inland )-6)-68&*.'0-0;*
(".&3&4&37& about 100 km (60 miles) KEY WILDLIFE
of St Lucia Village east of Iringa ,JHPNB Gerenuks, Grevy’s zebras,
5"/;"/*"
5"/;"/*" .PNCBTB *OEJBO
#MPFNGPOUFJO 0DFBO
AREA 1,000 sq km %VSCBO reticulated giraffes, Beisa oryxes
AREA 10,300 sq km %PEPNB
(385 sq miles) 4065)"'3*$" (3,975 sq miles) %BSFT
4BMBBN
KEY WILDLIFE $BQF5PXO KEY WILDLIFE 25!(!
Black rhinos, white rhinos, Lions, leopards, elephants, .!4)/.!, 0!2+
nyalas, elephants Samburu lies in the parched badlands that divide
and greater kudu, roan ;".#*" -JOEJ
and sable antelopes ,AKE Kenya’s central highlands from the Ethiopian
.YASA
border, and protects the most unusual fauna of
The largest and most alluring of several under- any African savanna reserve. Here lives the
rated game reserves in the Zululand region of Tanzania’s second-largest national park has a gerenuk, an extraordinary gazelle-like creature
South Africa, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is a key strong- rugged, remote and austere character. Baobab distinguished by its long neck, freakishly small
hold for Africa’s endangered rhino. More than trees litter the landscape, their bare branches head, and habit of standing on its hind legs to
1,000 white rhinos and 500 black rhinos roam reaching skyward from the semi-arid plains. This feed on leaves. Other oddities include the
these rolling green slopes, alongside elephants, is the sort of place where you can drive for hours densely striped Grevy’s zebra, the geometrically
buffalos, nyala antelopes and a varied cast of without seeing another vehicle. Game viewing can marked reticulated giraffe and the regal Beisa
predators, including lions, leopards and endan- be exceptional and cat-lovers are in for a treat, with oryx. All of these make the reserve attractive to
gered African wild dogs. The legendary four-day a good chance of spotting cheetahs, leopards and regular safari-goers, but first-timers have plenty
wilderness trails that run during winter are once- large lion prides. More than 12,000 elephants and to enjoy too – elephants and lions abound, and
in-a-lifetime experiences, but for those with less a diverse selection of antelopes, including the the forest fringing the Ewaso Nyiro river is one of
time, the guided game walks are a great option. majestically horned greater kudu, also roam here. the best places in East Africa for spotting leopards.
NATUR AL WONDER S
A distinctive-looking ring-tailed lemur in the lush rainforest
of Madagascar
Leopard lazing in a tree at night, South Luangwa National
Park, Zambia
A mandrill with its characteristic nasal colourings, Lopé National
Park, Gabon
Madagascar
Luangwa Valley
Lopé National NEED TO KNOW
Park
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Madagascar is
LOCATION The Luangwa Valley
-BLF.XFSV the fourth-largest island in
is in eastern Zambia, close to %&.3&1 the world, and lies in the .BIBKBOHB
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the border with Malawi.
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$IJOHPMB "OUBOBOBSJWP
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LOCATION Lopé National $".&300/ AREA 587,040 sq km
(310 miles) northeast of (226,655 sq miles) ."%"("4$"3
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forest elephants and buffalos,
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0 DF B O
of the Great Rift Valley, named after the Luangwa the Indian subcontinent, the landmass became
river, is rendered inaccessible by flooding for an island some 60 million years ago, and since
several months each year. Its spectacular One of the oldest, largest and most ecologically then its wildlife has evolved in virtual isolation.
concentrations of buffalos, hippos, zebras and significant reserves in West Africa, Lopé National Almost 1,000 vertebrate species are unique to
elephants, and some 14 antelope species, are Park – inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site Madagascar, the most famous of which are its
protected in two national parks, South and in 2007 – is also one of the most accessible to 68 species of lemur – small, gentle, wide-eyed
North Luangwa. The larger and more developed moderately intrepid travellers. Primates are the primates that include the indri (whose distinctive
southerly park is notable for night drives, which main point of interest. The rainforest in the park call sounds like a banshee), the dancing Verreaux’s
repeatedly strike gold when it comes to leopards, is the world’s most important refuge for the sifaka, and the demonic-looking aye-aye. Other
genets, civets and other nocturnal creatures. mandrill, a large baboon-like primate with a bizarre species unique to the island are the
North Luangwa, though not accessible on a striking red-and-white nasal pattern and fangs tomato frog, nymphomaniac vasa parrot, giant
budget, is one of Africa’s greatest wilderness that would make a vampire recoil. Lopé also hissing cockroach, 0.6-m- (2-ft-) long Oustalet’s
areas, studded with a few small camps that supports around 4,000 western gorillas, high chameleon, fossa, giraffe-necked weevil and the
specialize in walking safaris. densities of chimpanzees and 400 bird species. astonishingly camouflaged leaf-tailed gecko.
FORGET NEW
ENGLAND’S FALL?
THE BUILD-UP New England has worldwide
renown as a place of autumnal beauty. Fiery
hues form the backdrop to a quaint, small-town
atmosphere brought about by the fact that most
places in New England are quaint, small towns.
Friendly locals, fantastic scenery and enjoyable
drives make leaf-peeping hugely popular.
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Cherry blossoms by Takada Castle in Takada Park,
Jōetsu city BELOW (left to right) Sweets at a shrine served during
hanami; colourful lanterns adorning the streets in spring
FORGET
YELLOWSTONE?
THE BUILD-UP As the world’s first national
park, Yellowstone ranks high on most travellers’
must-see lists, and with good reason. This
magnificent wilderness, sitting atop one of the
world’s few mega-volcanoes, features numerous
lakes and waterfalls, vast forests, a menagerie of
North American wildlife, and an impressive
collection of colourful hot springs, bubbling
mud pots, steaming rivers and dramatic geysers.
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Stream running between the rhyolite hills of remote
Landmannalaugar BELOW (left to right) Lava following an eruption
at Surtsey; Strokkur erupting in the Geysir area
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Monastery and secluded beach at Bol on Brac island
BELOW (left to right) Couple inside the Blue Grotto Cave near Vis
island; diners on the main square of Hvar
NATUR AL WONDER S
Iguaçu Falls
vs Niagara Falls
With an amazing 275 cascades in an unspoilt tropical rainforest setting, Iguaçu Falls is a
breathtaking alternative to its famous North American rival, Niagara
FORGET NIAGARA?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE BUILD-UP Ask someone to name a famous
waterfall and nine times out of ten the answer will be Getting There and Around excellent cheap meat dishes
Niagara. As one of America’s most celebrated natural The main town in the area is the under the direction of its
wonders, Niagara has lodged firmly in the popular Brazilian city of Foz do Iguaçu, charismatic gaucho owner.
which has regular air connections Where to Stay
imagination. People have dived into the falls, ridden
with Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. There are many hotels on both
over them in barrels and walked tightropes across Puerto Iguazú, on the Argentinian
them, and they have appeared in countless television sides of the border. The most
side, has air connections with appealing option is the old-
programmes and Hollywood films. Each year the ABOVE Hordes of tourists packed onto a viewing deck at the Buenos Aires. Both towns are also fashioned Hotel das Cataratas
falls attract astonishing numbers of tourists. Horseshoe Falls, Niagara served by bus from Rio de Janeiro (www.hoteldascataratas.com), in
and Buenos Aires. Local buses Brazil’s Parque Nacional do Iguaçu.
THE LETDOWN Niagara might be spectacular, but it is far from being the world’s largest – or most memorable make the 20-km (12-mile) trip
from the two towns to the falls, When to Go
– waterfall. Although the falls are impressively wide, there are at least a dozen broader and more powerful
and there are plenty of local Visit from March to November,
cataracts elsewhere in America and Africa. What’s more, for those looking to commune with nature, Niagara is when temperatures are cooler
not the place to be. The recent rash of development has created such huge changes to the flow of air that many tours available.
and skies clearer.
of the viewing areas are now obscured by mist. Where to Eat
The best restaurants are found Budget per Day for Two
on the Brazilian side. Try the £150 including accommodation,
GOING ANYWAY? Although you can’t escape the crowds at Niagara, you are at least guaranteed spectacular food and travel.
Recanto Gaúcho (www.
views by taking the famous “Maid of the Mist” boat trip to the base of the falls, which brings you as close to the
recantogaucho.com), near the Website
cataracts as it’s possible to get, short of actually diving over them. Just don’t forget to bring your waterproof. park entrance, which serves up www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br
174
NATUR AL WONDER S 6 MORE WATERFALLS TO RIVAL NIAGARA
Angel Falls The four cascades that make up Jog Falls, Karnataka State, India
canyon side, Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, Iceland
NATUR AL WONDER S
The thundering cascades of Kaieteur Falls shrouded in spray,
Kaieteur National Park, Guyana
Dramatic Yosemite Falls plunging down the cliffs in Yosemite National
Park, California, USA
Slender Tugela Falls gracefully bisecting the mountainside, Royal
Yosemite Falls
NEED TO KNOW Tugela Falls
NEED TO KNOW "UMBOUJD
LOCATION Kaieteur Falls 0DFBO
lies in Kaieteur National Park, 4QSJOH NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Yosemite Falls 7&/&;6&-" (BSEFO
is found in Yosemite National $"/"%" and is 230 km (145 miles) (FPSHFUPXO
southwest of the Guyanan LOCATION Tugela Falls is #0548"/"
Park in California, USA found in Royal Natal National
capital, Georgetown -JOEFO /".*#*"
MAXIMUM 4BO ,"*&5&63 Park, in the KwaZulu-Natal +PIBOOFTCVSH
'SBODJTDP /FX:PSL MAXIMUM HEIGHT
HEIGHT :04&.*5& '"--4 Province of South Africa
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DAYTIME -PT"OHFMFT 64" DAYTIME
(6:"/" HEIGHT 947 m (3,107 ft) #MPFNGPOUFJO
TEMPERATURES TEMPERATURES
DAYTIME %VSCBO
Jan: 3°C (37°F); Apr: 10°C Jan: 26°C (79°F); Apr: 27°C 4065)"'3*$"
(VMGPG (81°F); Jul: 27°C (81°F); Oct: 28°C (82°F) #3";*- TEMPERATURES
(50°F); Jul: 24°C (75°F); .&9*$0 .FYJDP Jan: 23°C (73°F); Apr: 16°C $BQF5PXO
Oct: 13°C (55°F) (61°F); Jul: 9°C (48°F);
Oct: 18°C (64°F)
Kaieteur Falls is buried deep in the dense tropical
The tallest waterfall in North America – and the jungles of central Guyana and, like Iguaçu, is
seventh highest in the world – Yosemite Falls is memorable for its stupendous scale. The falls The highest falls in Africa and the second highest
one of the star attractions of the world-famous are five times higher than those at Niagara, and in the world (outdone only by Venezuela’s Angel
Yosemite Valley in the Sierra Nevada mountains spew out water at a prodigious average rate of Falls), Tugela plunges in a single fine cascade
of California. The falls plunge in three separate 663 cubic m (23,414 cubic ft) per second, making from the topmost escarpment of the awesome
stages over a series of grey limestone cliffs. Kaieteur, statistically, one of the world’s most Drakensberg Mountains. Surrounded by a great
There’s the spectacular 425-m (1,394-ft) Upper powerful cascades and, visually, one of its most bowl of rocky red cliff faces known as the
Falls, then the so-called “cascades” (a series of dramatic. The setting is unforgettable too – the Amphitheatre, the falls boast one of the most
smaller drops), and finally the 97-m (318-ft) Lower waterfall lies in one of the continent’s largest memorable locations on the planet. Tugela can
Falls. Although it’s not exactly undiscovered, of tracts of undisturbed rainforest. And despite be seen from the road, but there are also two
course (Yosemite is one of the world’s most being Guyana’s leading tourist attraction, it still trails that lead right to the cascades. The first of
famous – and most popular – national parks), only attracts around 40,000 visitors a year – far these is the spectacular Mont-aux-Sources path,
heading up the steep path to the Upper Falls is fewer than Iguaçu, let alone Niagara. which climbs to the very top of the falls and the
a great way of escaping the worst of the crowds, Drakensberg escarpment, while the second, less-
and there are superb views en route. strenuous trail heads to the base of the falls.
Practical Information
Getting There There is no road access to the falls. They are best visited
Practical Information either by plane on a day trip from Georgetown, which is an hour’s flight Practical Information
Getting There Fly into San Francisco and then either hire a car or take a bus to away, or on foot via a spectacular wilderness trek that takes between Getting There The best way to access Tugela Falls is to fly to Johannesburg
the park. The top of the Upper Falls can be reached by a 6-km (3.5-mile) trail. three and five days to complete. and then drive to Royal Natal National Park.
When to Go Visit in April and May, when the falls are at their finest, the When to Go Visit in January, June or July, during either of the country’s two When to Go Visit in the cool, dry months (Jun–Sep). Water volumes aren’t
weather not too cold, and the crowds not too oppressive. rainy seasons, when the falls are at their most powerful. part of the appeal of these falls, so it makes sense to avoid the wet season.
Website www.nps.gov/yose Website www.kaieteurpark.gov.gy Website www.drakensberg-tourism.com/tugela-falls.html
176
NATUR AL WONDER S
Oct: 27°C (80°F) -PKB Nambillo is a rejuvenating place is a huge ABOVE Small shops and vendors lining First Beach at Manuel
Antonio National Park, Costa Rica
understatement. For years a well-kept secret, or a
largely ignored paradise, depending on who you
Tucked away in the sloping hills northwest of ask, Mindo-Nambillo has come into its own only
Quito, and no more than a 90-minute drive from since 1982 and now falls under the protection of
the capital, lies the extraordinary Mindo-Nambillo the Ecuadorean government. Unlike rainforests in
Cloud Forest or, to use its official title, the Bosque Costa Rica and elsewhere, there are stringent PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Protector Mindo-Nambillo. It’s one of those places regulations regarding who gets in and the
that will leave you doubly astonished – by its purpose for the visit. You won’t find tour guides Getting There and Around prettiest setting – has excellent
beauty and by the fact that it isn’t more widely hawking their services, nor five-star luxury hotels Getting to Mindo-Nambillo cabins and plenty of bird-watching
couldn’t be easier. It’s less than opportunities of its own.
known, although that’s changing fast. Covering that undermine the forest’s ecology. What you will a 2-hour drive over paved roads When to Go
nearly 20,000 hectares (49,000 acres), the reserve find are increasingly rare flora and more than from Quito. There’s a lot June through September is the
500 species of birds in a pristine, natural to do in the area, so hiring a car most pleasant period to visit.
environment. For those interested in outdoor is recommended. Avoid the rainy season from
activities, there are trails for walking and bird- Where to Eat October to May. It is better to
watching, and if you’re scrupulously careful, you On the way to the cloud forest, visit on weekdays as there are
take the road to Calacalí and stop fewer tourists; weekends can be
may even be able to go rafting or rappel the
off at Pululahua to try El Cráter very busy with families.
beautiful La Isla Waterfalls.
(www.elcrater.com), on the Budget per Day for Two
The government wisely established a buffer outskirts of town. It has excellent Roughly £65 should do nicely,
zone within the park, the first of its kind in South food and outstanding views of especially considering the lack of
America, where visitors can lodge or camp and a volcanic crater and the vendors and touts. Bring a bit
stock up on supplies. Guides are allowed to set up surrounding landscape. more money if you plan to stay
shop only if they pass extensive tests. Where to Stay the night in Mindo.
Mindo-Nambillo also takes its commitment In Mindo itself, the comfortable Website
Mindo Garden (www. www.getquitoecuador.com/
to family education seriously, so if you have the
mindogardens.com) – situated quito-natural-attractions/
kids along, there’s plenty for all to do and see, as in what may be the region’s mindo_cloudforest.html
ABOVE A visitor on a log bridge in the Mindo-Nambillo forest reserve much of the reserve is accessible to children.
177
NATUR AL WONDER S
MAIN IMAGE Guarumos Waterfall, Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest
BELOW (left to right) Butterfly species, Heliconius erato;
birders in a forest hide; an Andean Emerald hummingbird
178
NATUR AL WONDER S 4 MORE RAINFORESTS TO RIVAL THE COSTA RICAN FORESTS
Blue Mountains The thick canopy of lush green trees in a rainforest in the Cayo District
of Belize
NEED TO KNOW
NATUR AL WONDER S
A golden lion tamarin on a tree in the Poco das Antas Reserve, Mata
Atlântica, Brazil
Mata Atlântica Longboats and tourists visit Clearwater Cave, Mulu National Park, in
the state of Sarawak, Malaysia
NEED TO KNOW
ABOVE Aerial view of the dazzling sapphire lakes at Jiuzhai Gou, China
JIUZHAI GOU LAKES, SICHUAN PROVINCE, CHINA The lush mountainous area of AGGTELEK CAVES, HUNGARY These ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, UTAH, USA
Jiuzhai Gou is an earthly paradise known for its 90-plus crystal-clear lakes that sparkle vast underground caves protect record- One of nature’s seemingly random acts was
with greens and blues ranging from sapphire to jade, and for its generously gushing sized stalactites and stalagmites, as well to erode the rich sandstone of the high
waterfalls. Divided into three main valleys, the reserve is home to diverse vegetation, as snails, beetles, worms and crabs. Just desert in Utah into arches – around 2,000
including bamboo forests that sustain the endangered giant panda population. Autumn three of the hundreds of caves are open of them. You may want a guide in this
is a good time to visit, when the leaves burn fiery shades of yellow, gold and red. The to the public, and the longest runs for dramatic landscape, where temperatures
area is not easy to reach – it is 10 hours by road from Chengdu, the nearest big town. 21 km (13 miles) into nearby Slovenia. can fluctuate alarmingly in 24 hours.
BAKO NATIONAL PARK, SARAWAK, BEARA PENINSULA, IRELAND In the BLUE LAGOON, ICELAND This must be the ultimate bathing experience – and it could
MALAYSIA Bearded pigs, mouse deer, far southwest of Ireland, this toe of land do you good, too. A steaming blue pool at a cosy 40°C (105°F), this surreal open-air bath,
flying lemurs, long-nosed monkeys and dipping into the Atlantic is as wild and located 39 km (24 miles) from Reykjavík, is warm enough to swim in at any time of year.
hairy-nosed otters are just some of the wonderful as the country gets. The great As clean as it is clear, the salt water is run-off from the neighbouring power station, which
fabulous animals you’re likely to spot rocky peninsula, between Kenmare and pumps it up from 1.5 km (1 mile) below the ground, where it is piping hot, harnesses its
on the jungle trails of Bako, the jewel of Bantry bays, offers some spectacular heat and then releases it into the lagoon, where it gradually cools. The water is said to
Borneo’s national parks. scenery and wonderful walking country. be good for your skin, and health and beauty treatments are on hand.
BUCKSKIN GULCH, UTAH, USA VALLE DE LA LUNA, CHILE Upon arrival COLCA CANYON, PERU Standing on the
Slot canyons are characterized by their in the Atacama Desert’s Valle de la Luna, edge of this mighty canyon, which is twice
narrow openings and great depth, and you would be forgiven for thinking you had as deep as the Grand Canyon, you’ll see
nowhere in the world are they as deep landed on the moon. Cavernous valleys magnificent condors catching thermals
– or as long – as at Buckskin Gulch. The and steep ridges sculpted entirely by that rise from the valley floor. Ancient
sunless depths of this 25-km (15-mile) nature cover a spectrum of changing hues. terraces on the canyon’s sloping sides
canyon can be walked, although some For somewhere so uninhabitable, there’s maintain communities that farmed here
people like to go canyoning too. The a surprising amount to do, from trekking before the Incas arrived. A good way to
gulch is a tributary of the Paria River, to sand-boarding, and a visit at sunset explore this magical place is on a white-
which flows into the Colorado River. rewards you with breathtaking views. water rafting trip of the Río Colca.
CURONIAN SPIT, LITHUANIA Europe’s KAA-IYA DEL GRAN CHACO NATIONAL FISH RIVER CANYON, NAMIBIA This
largest beach stretches for nearly 100 km PARK, BOLIVIA This tropical forest gets magnificent canyon, one of the largest in
(62 miles) along the Baltic Sea, and has so little rain that many of its animals have the world, was created by the wear and
the highest dunes in the northern adapted so that they can go for days tear of the river and the collapse of the
hemisphere. If you visit on a sunny day, without water: deer and tapirs get their valley bottom through a shift in the earth’s
you may well think you have arrived in liquid from cacti, while big cats rely on crust. The best way to get to know it is on
the middle of an Arabian desert. The fluids from their prey. The forest is also a five-day hiking trail, but you must come
sand bar encloses an enormous lagoon thought to be home to around 1,000 prepared, as there are no facilities. Try to
and has a fragile ecosystem, so obey the jaguars – the largest number in any visit in winter (May–Sep), when the river is
local rules to avoid causing erosion. protected area in the world. less torrential than in the summer months.
181
NATUR AL WONDER S
ABOVE Glacier National Park combines rugged mountain beauty with verdant rolling meadows
RIGHT One of the four coral islands in the unspoilt Aldabra Atoll, Seychelles
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA, USA The beautiful mountainous landscape of ALDABRA ATOLL, SEYCHELLES Four idyllic coral islands encircling an enormous
Glacier National Park, which runs right up to the Canadian border, was formed thousands shallow lagoon make up this atoll, where humans have, by and large, kept away. Out of
of years ago by dramatic glacial action. Its diverse terrain – which includes alpine forests, the way of shipping lanes and with no fresh water, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is
meadows, tundras and lakes – is still roamed by grizzly bears and wolves. You have to have one of the most remote and harsh environments on the planet. Despite this, the Indian
a good idea of what you want to do before visiting, because there is so much on offer, from Ocean’s last flightless bird, the Aldabra rail, unlike the doomed dodo, has managed to
boating and fishing to horse-riding and cross-country skiing, not to mention the hundreds survive here. Just as content are tens of thousands of turtles, while sharks, barracudas
of miles of hiking trails. After a day in the clean mountain air you will sleep like a log. and countless manta rays bask in the beautifully clear turquoise waters.
LAKE BAIKAL, SIBERIA, RUSSIA Despite GLOW-WORM DISPLAYS, WAITOMO CAVES, NEW ZEALAND On the North Island of
repeated attempts, nobody has ever got New Zealand, 3 hours’ drive from Auckland, you’ll find the labyrinthine limestone caves of
to the bottom of the world’s deepest – and Waitomo, which drip with the silken, sticky threads of the larvae of fungus gnats, otherwise
largest – freshwater lake. A spectacle all known as glow-worms. Each worm hangs up to 70 glowing threads, 30–40 cm (12–16 in)
year round, the lake is frozen in winter and long, from its ceiling nest to attract and trap midges, flies and moths. It’s a magical display
satin-smooth in summer, while autumn that resembles the Milky Way in microcosm. Tours include rides on rubber rafts through
brings waves of oceanic proportions. the underground waterways, black-water rafting trips and cave abseiling.
SAN JUAN ISLANDS, WASHINGTON STATE, USA Visitors boarding a ferry at Anacortes GORGES DU VERDON, PROVENCE, FINGAL’S CAVE, ISLE OF STAFFA, UK
on the Washington mainland and gliding into the glorious San Juan archipelago for the FRANCE One of the most picturesque On the ferry from Mull in Scotland to the
first time might well feel that they are entering an enchanted land. Here, in a maze of spots in Europe, this canyon is not too Isle of Staffa, the chances are you will be
inlets and channels, more than 450 islands – 172 of them named – emerge from the daunting to explore. It is a wonderful serenaded by Mendelssohn’s Fingal’s Cave
bright blue waters of the northern Puget Sound. Hills carpeted in old-growth Douglas fir spot for walking, and kayaking and Overture over the boat’s loudspeaker
rise from the shores, while the soaring snow-capped peaks of the spectacular Olympic white-water rafting are popular in the system. And when you reach the giant
Peninsula tower in the distance. It’s an awesome scene. If so much natural beauty is too dazzling turquoise waters that seem to opening in the basalt rock that rises out
hard to take in at once, indulge in some whale-watching – either from a kayak or the give the whole landscape its luminous, of the sea like a huge stick of broccoli,
Lime Kiln Point State Park on San Juan Island, where you might well catch a glimpse of optimistic air. The limestone canyon walls you will see why the German composer
the resident population of orca whales as they feed. also make this a centre for climbing. was inspired to write his stirring piece.
KODACHROME BASIN STATE PARK, GOCTA FALLS, PERU These fabulous ERG CHEBBI, SAHARA, MOROCCO
UTAH, USA It’s no wonder this state falls in Peru’s Northern Highlands drop This is the desert at its most beautiful,
park was named after America’s most an astounding 770 m (2,530 ft) in two but the footprints you leave here won’t
famous colour film – Kodak’s Kodachrome tiers. They were only “discovered” a few last long. An erg is a strange phenomenon
– known for capturing “hot” colours well. years ago, and until planned access roads – it’s a mountain range of sand that drifts
The bright hues of the rocks are truly are completed, you’ll need to complete at the will of the wind. Watch the blazing
outstanding, especially on the “sand pipes” a 5-hour trek through dense jungle to sun cast weird and wonderful shapes
– chimneys of rock thought to be the reach them. But that trip itself, radiant and shadows over the pristine surfaces of
sediment of extinct geysers that remained with colourful birds and chattering the dunes, with their fluid, sensual curves
after the surrounding land eroded. monkeys, is worth the effort. and ripples created by the wind.
182
NATUR AL WONDER S
ABOVE Lighthouse in the azure, reef-speckled water off the southern coast of Grande Terre, New Caledonia
RIGHT Wattled jaçana walking across a Victoria water lily in a pond near Porto Jofre, northern Pantanal
NEW CALEDONIA BARRIER REEF, MELANESIA Second in length only to Australia’s PANTANAL, BRAZIL The largest wetlands in the world don’t sound particularly appealing.
Great Barrier Reef, this coral formation in the southwest Pacific runs for nearly 1,600 km But this vast and incredibly fertile region of central-west Brazil has some of the most
(1,000 miles) through the islands of New Caledonia, encircling a vast lagoon. Species exciting – and easily seen – creatures in the world. The wet season runs from November
found here are so diverse that many are still being discovered, though 1,000 kinds of fish to April, when it rains for several hours every afternoon and the aquatic flora rejoices; in
are known. Turtles love the reef, as do dugongs – clumsy-looking marine mammals that the dry season, which runs from May to October, a huge variety of birds congregate
can grow to the size of a cow. Dive in and see coral, sponges, molluscs and tropical fish; here. Capybaras, giant otters and marsh deer are among the animals to be seen all year
stay above water and glimpse many exotic birds, including the red-footed booby. round. Stay on a local cattle farm and explore the region by boat or on horseback.
MONUMENT VALLEY, UTAH, USA Heading down dead-straight Highway 161 towards MANDAI ORCHID GARDEN, SINGAPORE Of all
the backdrop of Monument Valley’s broken crags, you might well get the feeling that the world’s cultivated flowers, none is so exotic as
you have been this way before. And in films, you have – this classic Western scene of the orchid. And one of the best places to see it in all
unremitting desert scattered with the great, lonely fists of red rock known as “Mittens” its exquisite glory is at Mandai’s Vintage Garden in
has seen many a cowboy and stagecoach ride by. You can hire a horse or take a tour to Singapore. This hillside plot has some 200 varieties of
reach those places that are off-limits to those on foot. For an authentic touch, consider the flower in many fabulous shapes and colours, as
staying in a hogan – a traditional home of the Native American Navajo people. well as a water garden and herb and spice enclosure.
RIO GRANDE GORGE, NEW MEXICO, SAMARIA GORGE, CRETE, GREECE WADI EL-HITAN (VALLEY OF THE PLAYA OSTIONAL, COSTA RICA One of
USA Take in the view of this void from the A walk through this deep fissure of WHALES), EGYPT There was a time when nature’s miraculous events is the arrival of
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge on Highway 64, rock, running for 17 km (11 miles) from whales wandered the earth. Well, an early thousands of turtles on this beach every
a piece of engineering to match the drama Omalos to Aghia Roumeli on the south type of whale – a four-legged creature few weeks from July to November. These
of the canyon itself. Way below is a river coast of Crete, is not for the unfit. Once in called an archaeoceti. It’s a scary, unlikely amphibians lumber out of the surf to
that promises white-water rafting par the gorge, there’s no turning back. It’s a thought, but here the evidence is brought lay their eggs in such numbers that the
excellence. Underground volcanic activity Dantean landscape of sheer rock rising to light: the skeletons of land-whales on beach can look like a rocky shore. A
still shows up in hot springs along the towards the sun, which in high summer the point of losing their hind legs. This is conservation deal with the locals allows
valley, and petroglyphs reveal human shines without mercy. Towards the end, the greatest concentration of prehistoric them to collect eggs from the first batches,
activity from centuries past. the rock walls are 500 m (1,640 ft) high. animal bones ever found. as long as they protect the later ones.
NORTHERN LIGHTS, GREENLAND LUNAR RAINBOWS, VICTORIA FALLS, SEMENGGOH NATURE RESERVE,
Much mystery still surrounds the aurora ZAMBIA/ZIMBABWE Victoria Falls is a SARAWAK, MALAYSIA This is your
borealis; scientists do not know, for spectacular sight at any time, not least chance to come face to face with the
example, why the geomagnetic storms because its spray, like rain, creates a king of the swingers, the orang-utan.
behind the phenomenon are strongest rainbow when the sun is out. At night, Many survive in the jungle here because
during the equinoxes. But you don’t have this rainbow usually vanishes, except of the successful work of the reserve’s
to understand the science to appreciate when there is a full moon and a clear sky, rehabilitation centre, where you can see
the most spectacular show on earth. Head and when the Zambezi river is at its most these funny, intelligent primates. They
to Greenland instead of the more touristy thunderous (Jan–Jul). The combination of spend most of their time foraging, but
viewing spots in Alaska and Norway. moon and rainbow is a very romantic one. appear twice a day at feeding time.
183
NATUR AL WONDER S
ABOVE Two ring-tailed lemurs crossing a large rock in the late afternoon, Madagascar
LEFT Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed eagles on ice in the Nemuro Channel, Shiretoko Peninsula, Japan
SHIRETOKO PENINSULA, JAPAN In the far northeast of Hokkaido, Japan’s most northerly TSINGY DE BEMARAHA NATURE RESERVE, MADAGASCAR The otherworldly
island, lies a rugged finger of land jutting 65 km (40 miles) into the Sea of Okhotsk. landscape of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed reserve is a lush mix of mangrove
Surprisingly, this peninsula, which is on about the same latitude as US state of Oregon or swamps and emerald-green forests studded with fingers of limestone rock and riven
the French Riviera, freezes over in winter, and the snow remains in its shaded valleys until by deep gorges. Make a special effort to see the dramatic Manambolo river canyon on
summer. A string of volcanoes – one of which, Iouyama, remains active – runs across this the south side of the park. When it comes to wildlife, lemurs are the stars, particularly
wild landscape, where bears live in ancient woodlands, eagles scour clear skies and sea the endemic sifaka and ring-tailed varieties. Like these, many of the other creatures in
lions bark on lonely shores. Shiretoko (“the end of the earth”) is Japan’s last wilderness. the reserve have learned to adapt to the region’s fiercely dry climate.
PHOSPHORESCENT BAY, PUERTO RICO Anybody who has had a midnight swim in PAINTED CANYON, NORTH DAKOTA, USA Painted Canyon is one of the most awe-
the sea on a moonlit night will know the excitement of seeing small phosphorescent inspiring parts of the North Dakota Bad Lands. This phantasmagoric region lies on the
bubbles spinning through their fingers. But that is nothing compared to snorkelling in southern edge of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, named after the former president,
Phosphorescent Bay, where microscopic organisms called dinoflagellates sparkle at the who owned a ranch here. It is a shockingly harsh landscape of rocks and buttes, where
slightest disturbance. Even if you don’t fancy diving in, you can easily see the effects. Just temperatures are extreme and bison and horses still roam freely. Roosevelt, who came
watch the wake of a boat or paddle your hand in the water, and you’ll see twinkling. The here after the loss of his wife and mother on the same day, saw himself as a frontiersman,
best time to go is when there is a full moon or, most prettily, during a light rain. and in this remote and beautiful place, you are bound to feel like one, too.
TEIDE NATIONAL PARK, TENERIFE Spain’s SOSSUSVLEI, NAMIBIA Sunrise and KYUSHU AZALEAS, JAPAN In spring,
tallest mountain, which rises spectacularly from sunset are the best times to see the the shade of pink that creeps across the
the island of Tenerife, is surrounded by the lava magnificent sand dunes of Sossusvlei on slopes of Japan’s most southerly island,
fields of the collapsed cone of an earlier volcano. the Namibian coast. But the only way to Kyushu, is simply shocking. Kyushu azaleas
It is a strangely exhilarating place, popular for do so is to camp in the Namib Naukluft are just one of 300 varieties native to Japan,
fashion shoots and films about prehistoric Park, which is otherwise closed at these and they spread like wildfire. It is a joy to
monsters, including Planet of the Apes (1968). times of day. These high dunes, which are see this shrub, so familiar as a tamed
Snowcapped for much of the year, the peak is blown as sheer as silk with razor-sharp garden plant, completely untamed. Locals
not all desolate: Teide broom and other brilliant edges, surround a vlei – a red-clay water believe that the sight of them restores the
flowers bloom with the first rains of spring. hole that fills up every now and then. human spirit, and they are surely right.
WOLONG NATURE RESERVE, SICHUAN, SKAGEN, DENMARK Walk along this ANTARCTIC PENINSULA A setting of FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE, USA
CHINA With their big black eyes and sandy beach to Grenan, the most northerly incomparable beauty, Antarctica is an The 11 long, narrow, glacier-carved Finger
deep-pile coats, giant pandas are the most tip of Denmark, and you will see the Baltic unforgettable destination and one of the Lakes are natural marvels ranging from
appealing of bears. It’s no wonder they Sea on one side and the North Sea on few untouched places in the world. Your 5 to 65 km (3 to 40 miles) in length, and
were chosen as the emblem of the World the other, their waves hurtling towards days here will be spent cruising deep-blue surrounded by gorges brimming over
Wildlife Fund. At the Wolong Giant Panda each other and often colliding in such a waters known for their breaching whales with more than 1,000 waterfalls. Watkins
Breeding Centre in the highlands, you tumult of spray that you expect white and icebergs the size of ships. The region Glen is a jewel, with its stunning gorge
can watch these gentle creatures safe in horses to jump out of the water. Remote has some fascinating wildlife. Penguins and a series of 19 waterfalls. Walking trails
the knowledge that the programme here and romantic, this shifting sandy headland are found in their thousands, along with wind through it, including one that leads
is for their conservation and rehabilitation. has long been popular with artists. whales, seals and a large number of birds. behind the roaring Central Cascade.
Aerial view of coral-ringed Kuata Island, Yasawa archipelago, Fiji (p207)
beaches
186
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Grace Bay
vs Magens Bay ABOVE Sun-worshippers crowd the beach at Magens Bay on
the island of St Thomas, US Virgin Islands
Sweeping in a spectacular arc as far as the eye can see and shelving into calm FORGET MAGENS BAY?
turquoise water, breathtaking Grace Bay surpasses Magens Bay by leagues THE BUILD-UP This picture-postcard bay is
lined by a white-sand beach stretching for more
than 1 km (half-a-mile). It has virtually no tides
NEED TO KNOW water sport, jump on a horse or simply relax on the or waves, and the gentle slope into the azure
sand, where a near-constant breeze takes the edge water, as well as the presence of lifeguards,
LOCATION Grace Bay is on /PSUI off the blazing sun, this blissful spot has it all. makes it perfect for children. Trees offer respite
the north shore of the island $BJDPT
of Providenciales in the While Magens Bay has no hotels, cosmopolitan from the sun, and a concession rents chairs and
1307*%&/$*"-&4
Turks and Caicos Islands, &BTU Grace Bay is blessed with a variety of plush lockers, has shower facilities and sells food.
925 km (575 miles) $BJDPT
southeast of Miami 4PVUI$BJDPT
accommodation options that boast pampering
(SBOE
5VSL luxury, first-rate facilities and to-die-for settings. THE LETDOWN Magens Bay can get very, very
POPULATION 17,000 563,4
$"*$04*4-"/%4 busy, especially when the cruise ships have
VISITORS PER YEAR 300,000 These hotels are so swanky they even offer their
docked and the tour buses spill out their hordes.
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "UMBOUJD0DFBO guests king-size canopied beds on the beach and
Jan: 23°C (73°F); Apr: 25°C (77°F);
There’s no coral reef here, and the big rock pools
pretty thatched umbrellas to stand in for palm trees. boast only average snorkelling conditions. Alas,
Jul: 29°C (84°F); Oct: 28°C (82°F)
Atmospheric restaurants and casual but classy bars the beach charges for the privilege of a visit:
on the beach give visitors the opportunity to sip there’s a US$3 entrance fee plus US$1 for parking.
For sugary, pristine sand that gently disappears chilled beers or killer rum cocktails with the soft sand The road to the beach is also unnervingly steep.
under clear, electric-blue water, Grace Bay is hard between their toes. The bay’s eco-friendly, ultra-
to beat. This glorious beach dwarfs world-famous modern Leeward Marina, which opened in 2008, GOING ANYWAY? If you like exercise, you can
Magens Bay in the US Virgin Islands in scale, beauty beckons the super-rich in their floating party palaces. hike to the beach via the Magens Bay Discovery
and five-star appeal. And while its better-known Unlike Magens Bay, where you’re trapped in a Trail. Try to time your arrival for when the cruise
rival gets very busy with cruise-ship passengers bowl surrounded by steep forested hills and cannot ships aren’t in port, or for late afternoon when
passengers have departed. No nude sunbathing
who surge down the hill to the beach like lemmings, easily explore inland, Grace Bay is also the perfect
is allowed, but you can get an all-over tan at
the frost-white curve of sand at Grace Bay unfurls base for trips around Providenciales. It’s no effort to
Little Magens Beach, a short swim away.
for a staggering 16 km (10 miles), making it well- hop in a taxi to Conch Farm, which is home to about
nigh impossible for the beach to get crowded. 2 million of the endangered molluscs, or the island’s
Grace Bay is the jewel in the crown of the Turks National Environmental Center, where there are
and Caicos archipelago’s main island, Providenciales fascinating exhibits on local marine life. You can even
(known by locals as “Provo”), and is consistently get in the swing at the championship Provo Golf
rated among the world’s top ten beaches. The Club, with its grass-fringed bunkers echoing the
pristine ocean in the bay is part of Princess Alexandra silt-fine sands of Grace Bay. And Provo boasts plenty
Marine National Park and is as still as a millpond of other beaches: at dusk, head west to lonesome
thanks to a protective coral reef that lies 500 m Malcolm Beach to savour the spectacular sunsets.
(1,650 ft) off the coast. Not surprisingly, scuba-
diving, snorkelling and swimming conditions in
the bay are second to none. Horse-riding is PRACTICAL INFORMATION
another popular activity at Grace Bay, where noisy
Getting There and Around fresh seafood. For sophistication,
beach buggies, quad bikes and jet skis are banned.
Provo International Airport is try Anacaona at the Grace Bay
Whether you want to try out every conceivable served by daily flights from the Club (www.gracebayclub.com).
USA, Canada, the UK and other Where to Stay
Caribbean islands. From here, Try the luxurious all-suite
take a taxi to Grace Bay, which is Seven Stars resort (www.
just a 30-minute drive away. sevenstarsgracebay.com), the
Some hotels provide their own largest hotel on the beach.
airport shuttles. Taxi drivers are
usually happy to act as local When to Go
guides, but fares are expensive. The weather is best from
You can also rent cars and November to May.
scooters on the island. Budget per Day for Two
Where to Eat Around £200.
Grace Bay has some sensational Website
restaurants, with the focus on www.turksandcaicostourism.com
ABOVE Thatched umbrellas on the beach at the Grace Bay Club
187
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MAIN IMAGE Local children racing towards the water at Grace Bay
BELOW (left to right) Windsurfers in the clear aquamarine water
of the bay; colourful wooden huts on the beach
FORGET MIAMI?
THE BUILD-UP Miami Beach, with its vast
stretch of white sand, dotted with colourful
lifeguard towers and scattered with bronzed
bodies, is deemed one of the wealthiest beach
resorts in America. The streets that border the
beach include the famous and fabulous Art
Deco Historic District, its chic boutiques,
Beach, Perth
vs Miami Beach, Florida
expensive. Hotel prices have skyrocketed in
recent years, as have the high-rises that loom
over the beach. If you want to venture far
from your base you will need to hire a car.
And, because it’s such a popular beach, there
are crowds wherever you go; there’s no point
They are both popular and beautiful, but Australia’s Cottesloe Beach has a winning searching for a secluded spot of sand here.
combination of loveliness and charm without the backdrop of a bustling high-rise city GOING ANYWAY? Start at “SoBe” (South
Beach) for a swim and, while in that area,
take a look inside Art Deco hotels such as
NEED TO KNOW Families crowd the beach as the kids, in Cottesloe’s The Delano – the lobbies are simply stunning.
surf-lifesaving colours of black, yellow and white, Head to Lincoln Road for dinner and people-
LOCATION Cottesloe Beach
*/%0/&4*" train in watersports and surf-lifesaving techniques. watching in the evening.
is a suburb of Perth in the state
of Western Australia *OEJBO %BSXJO
Cottesloe’s surf is one of its key attractions for
CITY POPULATION 0 DFBO
many. A never-ending succession of waves roll across
Around 1.6 million the Indian Ocean to rush up onto the long sweep of
DAYTIME "6453"-*"
TEMPERATURES fine golden sand and entice surfers, who vie for the
Jan: 31°C (88°F); 1&35) 4ZEOFZ
best position on each break. Quieter waters around
Apr: 25°C (77°F); "EFMBJEF
the stone-built groyne are great for snorkelling.
Jul: 17°C (63°F); 4 PVUIFSO
$BOCFSSB
Oct: 22°C (72°F) 0 DFBO By mid-afternoon the beach and its trendy bars
are being colonized by the party crowd, a mixture
of locals and tourists, enjoying a cold beer and
Both Miami and Cottesloe beaches experienced a light snacks at the end of another hot, sunny day.
renaissance in the 1980s after years of fading from Later, the gourmet restaurants that fringe the beach
fashion. Miami’s popularity grew from being the begin to fill with appreciative diners savouring the ABOVE Miami Beach, lined with high-rises and barely visible
for the crowds of holiday-makers on its sands
setting of the hit TV show Miami Vice; Cottesloe’s fresh local produce and the spectacular views as
from Australia playing host to the America’s Cup the setting sun makes the world glow orange.
international yacht race. However, their respective Once again, numbers on west-facing Cottesloe
redevelopments took quite different paths and Beach begin to swell, as everyone gathers to watch
while Miami Beach is overshadowed by a high-rise the sunset silhouette the surfers, the late swimmers
city, Cottesloe has never lost its low-rise charm. and lovely Rottnest Island in the distance – a visual
In the 1920s Miami Beach became a magnet treat that the beachgoers of eastward-facing
for millions of Americans escaping to the coast for Miami can only dream about.
winter. The building boom that resulted has left a
legacy in the now-restored Art Deco District. Then, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
as now, the beautiful and fashionable set flocked
to its pastel palaces. With its British Raj-style Indiana Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Perth International Airport is Rooms at the Ocean Beach Hotel
Tea House, pine-fringed Cottesloe also has its share 12 km (7 miles) northeast of the (www.obh.com.au) range from
of celebrity fans (it was Heath Ledger’s favourite city and linked by bus or taxi. ocean-view suites to budget dorms.
beach and, sadly, the scene of his wake), but it Cottesloe Beach is 12 km (7 miles) When to Go
retains a low-key, family feel. And while its popularity southwest of Perth, 20 mins by In March, the beach becomes an
is clear from the crowds that flock here to soak up train from Perth Station.
outdoor gallery for the international
the sun, it is also quietly relaxed and exudes that Where to Eat art show Sculpture by the Sea.
With so many open-air cafés,
laid-back atmosphere for which Australia is known. bars with spectacular views and
Budget per Day for Two
Professional lifeguards patrol both beaches but restaurant-lined Marine Parade, £185 to include accommodation
Cottesloe has the iconic and much-photographed it is easy to see why so many in a 4-star hotel, lunch at the
people head to ‘“Cott” to dine. beach and a gourmet dinner.
volunteer Surf Life Savers, founded in 1919, to keep
an eye on things, too. Their newest members can Try the Blue Duck Café (www. Websites
blueduck.com.au) for stunning www.cottesloe.wa.gov.au
be found on the beach on Sunday mornings, when views and great seafood. www.sculpturebythesea.com
local children participate in the “Nippers’ program”.
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MAIN IMAGE Cottesloe Beach, with its historic Indiana Tea House
BELOW (left to right) Sculpture by the Sea exhibit; , uncrowded,
dune-fringed beach; fishermen on the Cottesloe groyne at sunset
190
BE ACHES 6 MORE CITY BEACHES TO RIVAL MIAMI BEACH
Al-Mamzar View across the dunes at Amager Beach Park, with wind turbines in
the distance, Copenhagen, Denmark
Deserted, pristine sands of Non Nuoc Beach, washed by South China
Amager Beach
NEED TO KNOW Non Nuoc
JSBO Park, Copenhagen
LOCATION Al-Mamzar beach
is on the Khor al-Mamzar inlet
in northern Dubai, United
Beach, Danang
NEED TO KNOW
1FSTJBO(VMG
Arab Emirates
NEED TO KNOW
CITY POPULATION 2"5"3 %6#"* LOCATION Amager Beach is
/PS UI4 FB
Around 1.2 million 5 km (3 miles) from central LOCATION Non Nuoc Beach
"CV%IBCJ
DAYTIME
Copenhagen, Denmark is just outside the major port city
"BMCPSH )BOPJ
(IVXBZGBU ,BUUFHBU
TEMPERATURES 6"& CITY of Danang, on the central coast of -"04
PNBO POPULATION 48&%&/
Jan: 24°C (75°F); Apr: 33°C Vietnam, 600 km (375 miles) south
Around 500,000 )FSOJOH
(91°F); Jul: 41°C (106°F); %&/."3, of the capital city Hanoi
%"/"/( 4 PV U I
Oct: 35°C (95°F) TBVEJBSBCJB DAYTIME CITY POPULATION 5)"*-"/% $ IJ OB 4 F B
TEMPERATURES &TCKFSH $01&/)"(&/ Around 800,000 7*&5/".
Jan: 2°C (36°F); Apr: 10°C
4WFOECPSH DAYTIME $".#0%*"
(50°F); Jul: 22°C (72°F); /IB5SBOH
Al-Mamzar Beach is more than just a succession TEMPERATURES
Oct: 12°C (54°F) ( V M G PG
(&3."/: Jan: 24°C (75°F); Apr: 30°C (86°F); 5IBJ M BOE )P$IJ.JOI$JUZ
of beautiful, curving, white sandy beaches, it is Jul: 34°C (93°F); Oct: 28°C (82°F)
also a park and recreational area that covers over
100 ha (247 acres) on a small headland to the Amager Beach Park is made up of a series of
north of central Dubai. Opened in 1994, the beaches and a 2-km- (1-mile-) long artificial Just south of Danang, at the foot of the Marble
parklands include beaches, swimming pools, a island, opened in 2005 and linked to the original Mountains, Non Nuoc (also known as China Beach)
stunning amphitheatre, picnic areas, barbecue Amager Beach by three bridges. The mainland stretches for 5 km (3 miles) in a white, sandy arc
facilities and children’s playgrounds, set amongst beach is divided by a headland. The northern that slopes gently into the clear blue waters of
acres of lush green lawn, palms, coconuts and area has a natural, untamed feel and its broad, the South China Sea. The beach is lined in part
other trees. The five beaches together make up sandy shoreline is backed by low-lying, grassy with an ancient forest of casuarina trees, and
the longest beach area along the coast of Dubai dunes. The beach to the south, known as the there are restaurants serving local seafood
and there is always a lifeguard on duty on at least “city beach”, has more facilities, including coffee specialities. A day at the beach can be combined
one. Al-Mamzar Beach and Park is open daily but shops, a pier and a marina. The addition of the with a visit to the nearby village of Non Nuoc
Wednesdays are for women and children only. island has created a natural lagoon which is (where skilled craftspeople have been carving
popular for water sports, and the shallow white, rose and grey marble since the 15th
waters are calm and safe – perfect for children. century), or a trip to the spectacular mountains.
Practical Information
Getting There and Around Dubai is the international flight hub of the UAE,
and its airport is just 4 km (2.5 miles) from both the city centre and the Al- Practical Information Practical Information
Mamzar Beach and Park. The easiest way of getting around Dubai is by Getting There and Around Copenhagen’s international airport is 8 km Getting There and Around There are flights from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City,
taxi, with non-metered ones offering negotiable, often cheaper, rates. (5 miles) south of the city. The beach is 8–10 mins by Metro from Bangkok and Singapore. Take a motorbike-taxi or cycle-rickshaw to the
When to Go Since summer maximum temperatures can reach unbearable Nørreport or Kongens Nytorv stations. beach. Bargain hard and have the waiting time and return fare included.
extremes, the period from late autumn to early spring (Oct–Apr) is the When to Go Jun–Aug is ideal for a Danish beach visit (water temperatures When to Go The dry season (Feb–Aug) is the ideal time; temperatures are
best time to visit. reach a comfortable 19°C/66°F), but it is also high season. more comfortable and, from May to Jul the sea is at its calmest.
Website www.dubai.com Website www.visitcopenhagen.com Website www.danang.gov.vn
191
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Hang-glider’s-eye-view of the idyllic setting and tranquil waters of
Cheltenham Beach, Auckland, New Zealand
Lifeguard’s station on the stretch of sands at Gordon–Frishman
Beaches, Tel Aviv, Israel
Cheltenham Quirky beach huts adding a splash of colour to Cape Town’s lovely
Muizenberg Beach, South Africa
Gordon-Frishman
Beach, Auckland
Muizenberg Beaches, Tel Aviv
Beach, Cape Town
NEED TO KNOW
NEED TO KNOW
LOCATION Cheltenham Beach
is situated to the east of Devonport, LOCATION The Gordon- )BJGB
a suburb of Auckland on the north "6$,-"/% NEED TO KNOW Frishman Beaches are in the
island of New Zealand heart of Tel Aviv, the second-
5BTNBO4 FB 5&-"7*7
CITY POPULATION /BQJFS LOCATION Muizenberg a largest city in Israel .FEJUFSSBOFBO
4FB +FSVTBMFN
Around 1.3 million 8FMMJOHUPO beach-side suburb on False #0548"/"
CITY POPULATION
DAYTIME Bay, 25 km (15 miles) south
/&8;&"-"/% Around 1.1 million *43"&-
TEMPERATURES: of Cape Town /".*#*"
1SFUPSJB
$ISJTUDIVSDI DAYTIME
Jan: 23°C (73°F); Apr: 19°C 1BDJmD0 DFBO CITY POPULATION +03%"/
TEMPERATURES:
(66ºF); Jul: 13°C (55°F); Around 3.5 million 4065)"'3*$" &(:15
Jan: 18°C (64°F); Apr: 23°C
Oct: 17°C (63°F) DAYTIME #MPFNGPOUFJO (73°F); Jul: 29°C (84°F);
TEMPERATURES %VSCBO Oct: 28°C (82°F) &JMBU
Jan: 26°C (79°F); Apr: 22°C
(72°F); Jul: 17°C (63°F); $"1&508/
A series of beaches extends north on the eastern Oct: 21°C (70°F) 1PSU&MJ[BCFUI
side of Devonport, each with its own merits, but The whole of Tel Aviv’s west side is one long
Cheltenham Beach is the closest. Popular with beach, facing west over the Mediterranean Sea.
families on a day out from Auckland, it is a safe, This once-popular and prestigious destination for At its northern end is the Tel Aviv Marina and
tidal beach with picnic grounds. It is worth a Capetonians is experiencing a renaissance. The what was, at one stage, the Gordon Swimming
walk to North Head, a headland that actually beach lies on the Indian Ocean side of the Cape Pool, which was famous as a meeting place for
lies at the southern end of the beach. From here, Peninsula, so the waters are much warmer here Tel Aviv celebrities and other notable figures.
the spectacular panoramic views extend through than at the beaches on the Atlantic Ocean side. At the southern end is Frishman Beach, where
360 degrees across the sweeping length of The wide sweep of white sand and gentle surf is you can rent lounging chairs and umbrellas. At
Cheltenham Beach, the harbour, Rangitoto Island ideal for families as well as surfers. Look out for weekends the beach is a gathering place for the
and back across to Auckland. As lovely as the the dolphins that sometimes come in quite close city’s young, hip crowd. Slim, suntanned bodies
beach is, be sure you leave enough time to enjoy to the shore, and the whales that pass during pack the bars, sands and volleyball courts, and
the trendy town of Devonport, with its beautiful their migration season. At lunchtime, stroll up to can overwhelm tourists, older locals and families.
architecture and great cafés. the popular picnic area at the northern end of During the week things are much more peaceful.
the beach, in the Zandvlei Nature Reserve. After a day of sun and sand, take a stroll along the
boardwalk, choosing a café or restaurant from
Practical Information which to enjoy a spectacular sunset view.
Getting There and Around Auckland’s international airport is 45 mins by Practical Information
road from the city. Ferry is the easiest way to get to Devonport from central Getting There and Around The international airport is 22 km (14 miles)
Auckland, then the beach is a short walk. Boats leave approximately every southeast of central Cape Town. Metro trains run from the Main Station Practical Information
30 mins from early morning until late each day, from Ferry Building to to Muizenberg. Getting There and Around Ben Gurion International Airport is 15 km
Devonport Wharf. When to Go Summer (Nov–Mar) has the lowest rainfall and the warmest (9 miles) from Tel Aviv. The beaches are steps away from most hotels.
When to Go Summer and early autumn (Dec–Mar) are the best times for a weather. But the best time for whale-watching is from mid-August to When to Go Tel Aviv is at its best during summer (May–Sep), when the
visit to New Zealand. mid-October. days are usually dry and hot, but not unbearable.
Website www.tourismnorthshore.org.nz Website www.tourismcapetown.co.za Website http://telavivguide.net/
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FORGET WAIKĪKĪ?
THE BUILD-UP Arguably the world’s most
famous beach, Waikīkī stretches for 3 km
(2 miles) along the shoreline of southern O’ahu.
Its natural setting is magnificent, with the
Ko‘olau Mountains soaring to the rear, the
extinct volcano of Diamond Head silhouetted
to the southeast, and the sun descending each
night into the Pacific Ocean straight ahead.
BE ACHES
MAIN IMAGE Aerial view showing the curving Hulopo’e Beach
BELOW (left to right) Waves washing the golden sands of
Hulopo’e; spinner dolphins leaping out of the water
MAIN IMAGE Fishing boat anchored in the clear blue water of Turtle Bay
BELOW (left to right) Green turtle, from which the bay gets its name;
archaeological site of Gedi; a mushroom-like coral formation, Turtle Bay
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Turtle Bay
vs Mombasa’s Beaches
Clear turquoise water, fantastic coral gardens, lush jungles stretching inland and a minimum
of hassle make Turtle Bay East Africa’s most complete beach experience
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Seating area made from an old dhow at the beachside Saadani Safari
Lodge, Saadani National Park, Tanzania
Balcony at the Peponi Hotel, Shela Beach, Lamu Island, Kenya
FORGET TULUM?
THE BUILD-UP It’s not difficult to see why
the crowds first flocked to Tulum with its
picturesque stretch of coastline and evocative
Mayan ruins overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
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FORGET
MONTEZUMA?
THE BUILD-UP A favourite of budget travellers,
this laid-back village is an idyll for those who
love paradise on a budget. The once sleepy
fishing hamlet fronts a rocky cove and has a
gorgeous wave-washed beach to the east.
Visitors can choose from a variety of activities,
from ATV rides to waterfall rappels. Cabo
Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve is nearby.
vs Ko Phi Phi
Bay on Ko Phi Phi, while tour boats buzz back and forth
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MAIN IMAGE Thatched jetty of the Angsana Resort on Ihuru
BELOW (left to right) Colourful coral reef, ideal for diving and snorkelling;
relaxing in a hammock at the beach; small boat on the shore
FORGET COAST
GUARD BEACH?
THE BUILD-UP Coast Guard Beach near
Eastham is Cape Cod’s finest stretch of beach
and is regularly ranked as one of USA’s best.
This broad, windswept beach, bounded by large
dunes and marshes and overlooked by a historic
Coast Guard Station, is a favourite seaside
retreat with Bostonians.
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MAIN IMAGE Waves breaking on a beach on the coast of the Isle of
Harris in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland BELOW (left to right) A pair
of puffins native to the region; stately Amhuinnsuidhe Castle
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Punta del Este
vs Copacabana
Thanks to myriad things to do in addition to the ever-present party scene, Uruguay’s elite Punta del Este
has the lead over fabled Copacabana when it comes to attracting the fun-loving set
NEED TO KNOW do. Activities range from sailing and surfing to Argentinians, North Americans and Europeans
horse-riding, archery and volleyball. There’s a looking for the good life now head to Punta del
LOCATION Punta del Este
occupies a peninsula in southern
"3(&/5*/" casino, a lighthouse and the iconic Casa Pueblo, Este instead of their own resorts, which aren’t
Uruguay, which is 139 km an extraordinary house and “living sculpture” built exactly second-class spots themselves.
3JWFSB
(86 miles) east of the capital, #3";*-
over a 36-year period by the Uruguayan painter Punta del Este has year-round appeal. In the
Montevideo
5BDVBSFNCØ and sculptor Carlos Páez Vilaró. Close by there’s high season, which runs from December to March,
POPULATION
70,000 also an aquarium, a zoo, several quaint seaside the resort’s classy clubs and popular beaches host
DAYTIME 636(6": towns and picturesque hills that boast fantastic endless parties, which rarely begin before midnight,
TEMPERATURES trekking routes. In fact, it’s likely that there are and the atmosphere is electric. There’s no shortage
Jan: 25°C (77°F); Apr: 20°C (68°F); 16/5"
Jul: 14°C (57°F); Oct: 17°C (63°F) .POUFWJEFP %&-&45& more things to do in and around Punta del Este of glitterati types here, drawn by the alluring beach
than any other resort in Latin America. and party lifestyle. The crowd is a mix of the young
But don’t let these sights and activities distract and beautiful, who frequent the beaches and bars,
For decades, Punta del Este has been a haven for you for too long from the resort’s stunning beaches. a wealthy, older generation in their yachts, and
the rich and famous. This glamorous resort – a It is here, perhaps more than anywhere else, that energetic types, who spend their time on the water
collection of fabulous beaches, elegant hotels and Punta del Este really shines. There are more than and in the hills. In the off-season, the resort might
stylish restaurants, clubs and bars – has long been a dozen beaches on this fashionable peninsula, be quieter, but it remains enticing. Those who long
synonymous with champagne, celebrities and all of which have a very different character. Take for the wild nights of summer should not despair –
fashion chic, but at the same time has remained your pick from white- and golden-sand beaches, there’s still plenty of partying to do at this time just
firmly grounded, attracting visitors from all walks sheltered coves and wave-battered shores, water- up the coast in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.
of life. Unlike Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana beach, sports hubs and sunbathing areas, secluded bays Whether you’re in search of high times and endless
which these days has few cards to play, Punta del and party beaches. Even the rowdiest beaches are nights, solitude and surf, or anything in between,
Este manages to combine serious partying and a clean and safe, day and night, and all boast excellent you can’t do better than Punta del Este.
carefree attitude with plentiful things to see and facilities. It’s no surprise that savvy Brazilians,
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
It’s everything you could imagine
FORGET COPACABANA? Getting There and Around
It couldn’t be easier to reach and more, right on the coast
Punta del Este. Rent a car in and yet tucked away from the
THE BUILD-UP Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana, known for its
Montevideo, which has an crowds. Book at least three
golden arc of sand and glitzy beach lifestyle, is probably the international airport, and head months in advance.
most famous beach on the planet. Other beaches boasting east on the motorway. You’ll
fun, sun and sand have to compete with its legendary When to Go
be there in 2 hours or less.
reputation, and more often than not come up short. Punta del Este’s high season is
Where to Eat between December and March,
Punta del Este has restaurants when it is most crowded. A
THE LETDOWN In recent years, Copacabana’s reputation for every budget and taste. For better option is to visit in either
has suffered greatly. It has rampant crime (generally theft), the best international cuisine October and November or
polluted water, beach vendors who are difficult to fend off, and people-watching in an April and May, when it is less
overcrowding and – for women – a likelihood of receiving elegant, hip setting, try the
expensive and less crowded.
male attention, whether desired or not. award-winning Novecento
(www.bistronovecento.com), Budget per Day for Two
GOING ANYWAY? If you do go, choose the right stretch of but reserve well ahead. You should allocate at least £200
per day to travel here in style;
beach for you. Some spots are ideal for surfing but nothing Where to Stay
The epitome of luxury in Punta Punta del Este may not be cheap,
else, others are family-oriented and others are good just for
del Este these days is the but it’s worth every penny spent.
sunbathing, but none are chic and all are crowded. Leave your ABOVE Aerial view of the crowds on Copacabana,
jewellery, watches, mobile phones and cameras in your hotel. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil sophisticated Mantra Resort Website
(www.mantraresort.com). www.vivapunta.com/en/index
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BE ACHES 44 MORE STUNNING BEACHES
AITUTAKI, COOK ISLANDS At one corner of a triangular lagoon in the South Pacific sits ANSE SOURCE D’ARGENT, LA DIGUE, SEYCHELLES Probably the most photographed
Aitutaki, the most idyllic of the Cook Islands. The lagoon is peppered with 14 motu – small beach in the world, Anse Source d’Argent is the stuff of tropical-island fantasy. A series of
volcanic and coral islets – which offer some great snorkelling and diving opportunities. small, crescent-shaped, pink-sand beaches are separated by huge, smooth granite boulders
There’s plenty to do away from the beaches, too. Attempt the spectacular climb up Munga worn into weird and wonderful shapes by the waves and the wind. The water is turquoise
Poo, Aitutaki’s highest point, enjoying the renowned local hula dancing and local grilled and shallow and protected by an offshore reef, so it is safe for children and non-swimmers.
fish at villages along the way. There is plenty of affordable accommodation next to the A ferry takes you from the main island, Mahé, to a nearby jetty, and from here a 10-minute
pristine beaches on the island, and a boat tour around the lagoon is a must. bike or ox-cart ride will bring you to the start of a short footpath leading to the beach.
ANSE LA ROCHE, GRENADA, ARAMBOL BEACH, GOA, INDIA BAAN MAI, KOH LONE, THAILAND Traditional long-tail boats cross the water south from
CARIBBEAN An unspoiled curve of sand The atmosphere at Arambol is distinctly Phuket to Koh Lone Island (the trip takes 15–20 minutes), where a small boutique hotel is
with wooded hills rising up behind it, Anse laid back: wake up in a bamboo hut just nestled within dense tropical foliage. There are also wooden bungalows a stone’s throw
la Roche is an idyllic place. Here, your only footsteps from the shore and share the from the shore, with verandas from which you can watch spellbinding sunsets. The
company will be the pelicans that sit on a sunrise with a few scuttling crabs. Don’t atmosphere at Baan Mai is quiet and relaxing. Should you want to rouse yourself into
rocky outcrop offshore, diving elegantly miss the beach’s freshwater lake and mud some activity, there are kayaks for hire and snorkelling trips to a nearby coral island. There
every now and then in search of fish. baths with purported healing properties. is also a boat service to an adjacent beach, which is very good for swimming.
BARLEYCOVE BEACH, CORK, IRELAND BANGARAM BEACH, LAKSHADWEEP QUEEN’S BEACH, MONTENEGRO
Between two craggy headlands on the ISLANDS, INDIA This teardrop of lush Queen Milena of Montenegro so loved
Mizen Peninsula, Barleycove is a remote green coconut palms fringed by creamy this beach that it was named after her.
horseshoe of golden sand. A bracing walk sand in the warm waters of the Indian Sheltered by pine-clad cliffs and lapped
in the fresh Atlantic air takes you to nearby Ocean is uninhabited, with the exception by the clear waters of the Adriatic Sea,
Mizen Head, Ireland’s most southwesterly of one low-key resort. Bangaram Island is the beach affords the ultimate rose-
point. The region has some of the country’s surrounded by a lagoon, and its main tinted view every evening as the sun sets
best weather, but the beach is rarely busy, beach boasts wonderful snorkelling, with on its pink-sand shores. Unspoilt and
though the sea is sometimes flecked abundant puffer, parrot, angel and clown relatively inaccessible, this is one of the
with surfers enjoying the large waves. fish, as well as manta rays and moray eels. Mediterranean’s more appealing refuges.
CATHEDRAL COVE, NEW ZEALAND WHITE BEACH, BORACAY, THE BIG BUDDHA BEACH, KO SAMUI,
North Island’s Coromandel Peninsula is PHILIPPINES This 5-km (3-mile) stretch THAILAND This 3-km (2-mile) stretch of
an ecological paradise renowned for its of pristine sand lined with swaying palms beach gets its name from the 4-m- (12-ft-)
marine wildlife and beaches, the most is frequently voted one of the world’s best tall statue that watches over it from the
beautiful of which is Cathedral Cove. beaches. Boracay, which is 6 km (4 miles) east. The temple here is a pilgrimage site,
Whether taking the coastal path from long and 1 km (half-a-mile) at its narrowest but most visitors come for the sand, sea
Hahei or arriving by boat or kayak, time point, has many other bays scattered along and nightlife. Big Buddha Beach slips down
a visit here with low tide for the essential its shores. There are fantastic views of the into clear, protected waters and is backed
photo opportunity under the spectacular beaches and the deep ocean beyond from by low palms and hotels, restaurants and
limestone archway that divides the beach. Mount Luho, the island’s highest point. bars, which come alive at night.
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ABOVE Sixteenth-century Lindisfarne Castle, romantically perched atop a rocky bluff known as Beblowe
Crag at Holy Island, Northumberland, UK
HOLY ISLAND, NORTHUMBERLAND, UK Holy Island, also known as Lindisfarne, lies off LLANDUDNO BEACH, CAPE TOWN, MAJAHUITAS, MEXICO Majahuitas is just
the coast of northeast England and is accessible only via a paved causeway at low tide. It’s SOUTH AFRICA Shy neighbour of glitzy a short boat ride off Mexico’s coast, but it
a wild, remote place, fringed by miles of golden beaches with fascinating rock pools and Clifton and Camps Bay beaches, Llandudno feels like another world. This palm-fringed
rolling dunes. The main beach is lined with upturned fishing vessels, which were once is the local in-the-know choice for post- beach is backed by wooded hills and
part of a 19th-century herring fleet and now serve as work sheds. Also on the island are work sundowners. The picturesque sandy accessible only by boat. Here, manta rays
the ruins of a 7th-century Benedictine priory and a 16th-century castle, built in defence sweep is heaven for surfers and the perfect and dolphins swim gracefully, pelicans dive
of England against the Scots. Only 160 people live here, and the pace of life is slow. spot for a cold beer as the sun sets. for food and parakeets sit in mango trees.
LOPES MENDEZ, ILHA GRANDE, BRAZIL MONKEY BAY, TIOMAN ISLAND, MALAYSIA Tioman, the largest of the volcanic islands
Lopes Mendez, a stunning 3-km (2-mile) off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia, comprises 115 sq km (44 sq miles) of dense
stretch of white sand that is so bright you jungle and three towering peaks. A hike through the rainforest from the main tourist hub
have to squint as you make your way across at Salang will lead you to Monkey Bay; you’re likely to see the eponymous monkeys, who
it, is the highlight of this lush island. The can get a little territorial, along the way. This secluded yellow-sand beach is a great place
beach is buffeted by the Atlantic, but the to spend the day snorkelling or picnicking. Many visitors choose to arrive by ferry from
water is shallow and safe for bathing. Mersing on the mainland, a 1–2 hour journey, depending on the boat.
INGONISH BEACH, CANADA Ingonish Beach on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia is JOST VAN DYKE ISLAND, BRITISH NOIRMOUTIER, FRANCE The west coast
not your average beach, but a temporary bank of sand that is swept away every winter VIRGIN ISLANDS The south of this island of this island is dominated by great curves
by waves and redeposited in the spring, creating a barrier between the sea and a lake. is home to coconut-fringed White Beach of golden sand, while its northern Atlantic
Time your trip right (Mar–Apr), and expect both salt- and fresh-water swimming, and and the Soggy Dollar Bar – the perfect shores are home to craggy cliffs, secluded
access to a wealth of marine life, including lobsters, salmon and trout – rich pickings for place to sip a rum cocktail at sunset. The bays and creeks. This small island lies 5 km
anyone keen on fishing. The unusual beach is part of Cape Breton Highlands National north is craggy and deep and great (3 miles) from the mainland and can be
Park, a wilderness area that provides opportunities for many outdoor pursuits, such as snorkelling territory. Just 200 people live reached by the Passage du Gois, which
hiking, canoeing and whale-watching. And it goes without saying that this majestic on the island, principally in Great becomes submerged at high tide. Don’t
place is a camper’s dream – Cape Breton Island sits on the dramatic eastern seaboard Harbour, where smells of freshly baked miss the island’s 12th-century castle and
and offers visitors a surprising amount to do for somewhere so far off the beaten track. banana bread waft down the streets. church, once a Benedictine priory.
KUATA ISLAND, FIJI Southernmost in BOSLUISBAII, NAMIBIA It’s sand upon PLAYA DE CABO DE GATA, ALMEÍRA
the Yasawa archipelago, tiny Kuata Island sand as beach meets desert in the north In contrast to much of Spain’s overcrowded
is technically the easiest one to reach corner of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, so- coastline, the southeast coast of Almería
from Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. However, called because of its treacherous currents remains relatively neglected by tourists.
most maps of the Yasawas don’t even and resultant shipwrecks (see also p115). The region has volcanic terrain, and many
feature Kuata and it certainly isn’t what As you’d imagine, swimming is impossible undiscovered beaches lie tucked beneath
you’d call overcrowded. The best beach is here, and because special permission is its craggy cliffs. Most impressive is Playa
at Likunivisawa Point, but the whole required to access Bosluisbaii, your party de Cabo de Gata, a 5-km (3-mile) beach
island is enchanting, with its fine-white will be the only one there. This is a beach that is buffeted by open sea. You’re unlikely
sand, dramatic volcanic ridges and caves. for fans of rugged, raw beauty. to see many other people here.
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ABOVE Picturesque Nungwi in Zanzibar, with its clear, bright-blue water and elegant dhows
RIGHT Lone bather in the calm, shallow sea at Palawan, the Philippines
NUNGWI, ZANZIBAR The twinkling sapphire water of the Indian Ocean tempts you PALAWAN, PHILIPPINES Palawan, an island province comprising one main island and
on the long, hot drive to Nungwi, which lies on the northernmost tip of Zanzibar. But thousands of smaller islets and outcrops, is located between Mindoro in the Philippines
it’ll be worth the uncomfortable journey; the sand is so fine it squeaks between your and Borneo in Malaysia. It is an area of extraordinary natural beauty, its sloping white-
toes as you walk and the calm water off the beach stretches out to a wide coral reef. sand beaches slipping down into still turquoise waters, and towering forested cliffs
Most visitors are happy just to kick back on the beach, watching from beneath a shady jutting dramatically into the ocean. The main island is long and narrow, and surrounded
palm as fishermen cast their nets from wooden dhows. But if you want a change of by coral and limestone offshore reefs. With over 1,600 km (1,000 miles) of coastline here,
scene, visit nearby Stone Town, with its winding streets and eclectic architecture. you are bound to find your own little piece of paradise.
DAYMER BAY, CORNWALL, UK Pretty CORONADO BEACH, SAN DIEGO, CAPE MAY, NEW JERSEY, USA Visitors always fall in love with Cape May, a resort with a
Daymer Bay lies in a sheltered position at CALIFORNIA, USA Swimming, volleyball lovely, blustery beach met by the cool waters of the Atlantic, and rows of Victorian town
the mouth of the Camel Estuary, and is a and kite-surfing are the popular activities houses that recall a bygone era of holidaying on the coast. The town was settled by
great place for swimming and windsurfing. on this wide stretch of sand. Crowds fishermen and whalers in the mid-19th century, and it became a popular resort for city-
Walk along the nearby coast path from gather here to watch fiery-red sunsets dwellers on summer weekends. This is still the case today, though the area has remained
Polzeath to St Enodoc, passing the church and, from January to March, the grey- remarkably unspoilt. Beach-goers come here to relax on the sand, try their hand at
where poet John Betjeman was laid to rest. whale migration south to Baja California. sailing and watch dolphins playing in the gentle surf.
MATIRA BEACH, BORA BORA The lush DON DAENG ISLAND, LAOS Sit sipping EMERALD BAY, PANGKOR LAUT,
island of Bora Bora, which juts impressively coconut milk on the sandy, quiet beaches MALAYSIA Just off the west coast of
into the South Pacific, is fringed on the of this river island, beneath steeply rising Malaysia, in the Straits of Malacca, lies the
south and east with white sandy beaches. mountains. Don Daeng, on the Mekong, picture-postcard island of Pangkor Laut.
Matira, with its shallow turquoise water is an enclave of traditional culture, where On its western shores lies Emerald Bay, a
protected by an offshore lagoon, is locals go about their work fishing, farming flawless white-sand beach, with bowing
undoubtedly the most scenic of these. and weaving. Staying as part of the palms and tepid green waters. Trace
Stop at one of the beach bars to try the community is a highlight; local families turtle footprints in the sand and watch
delicate local poisson cru – raw fish put guests up in their simple homes and crabs scuttle across the beach from one
marinated in lime and coconut milk. serve up steaming portions of fresh fish. of the comfortable sun loungers here.
ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO The laid-back GRAYTON BEACH, FLORIDA, USA MORNE ROUGE, ST GEORGE’S,
charms of this small coastal town attracted The Florida Panhandle Gulf Coast stretches GRENADA Pretty Morne Rouge is one of
a hippie crowd during the 1970s, and for 320 km (200 miles) and boasts beautiful the most secluded beaches in Grenada.
today pulls in backpackers and windsurfers. white-sand beaches, freshwater lakes and There is plenty of natural shade beneath
Essaouira is known for its 10-km (6-mile) undulating dunes. Grayton Beach, a broad palms here, and the water is warm, calm
beach, popular with locals for barefoot sweep of quartz-white sand lapped by and shallow. Boss Reef, 3 km (2 miles)
football and evening strolls. The town calm, warm Gulf waters, regularly features offshore, is popular with snorkellers, but
also has a lively fishing port. Spend a day high in rankings of the nation’s top otherwise there are few activities on offer;
in the medina here, or walking along the beaches. Grayton Beach State Park offers it’s a place to relax. The nearest town of
ramparts overlooking the bay. nature trails, hiking, biking and camping. L’Anse aux Epines is only a short walk away.
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ABOVE Beautifully sculpted natural archway in the shallow water at Spiaggia del Principe, Sardinia
LEFT The dazzling, bright-white moonscape and vivid azure sea at Sarakíniko Beach, Mílos, Greece
SARAKÍNIKO BEACH, MÍLOS, GREECE The volcanic island of Mílos might be best SPIAGGIA DEL PRINCIPE, SARDINIA, ITALY Sardinia’s Emerald Coast, or Costa Smeralda,
known for the ancient statue of Venus de Milo that was found here in 1820 (now housed is known for being home to some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean. A drive along
in the Louvre in Paris), but it also has a dramatic landscape and over 70 glorious beaches. the winding coastal road, stopping occasionally to take in the wind-sculpted rocks that
The spectacular island forms a horseshoe around a clear central gulf in the Aegean Sea. emerge from the glittery turquoise sea, is a great way to see the coast. Linger at Spiaggia
The bay at Sarakíniko, on the north coast, is formed of great white pumice rocks, which del Principe, a white-sand bay sandwiched between pink granite rocks and divided into
have been smoothed by wind and rain over millions of years. There is a small sandy two sheltered beaches by a rock wall. The beach may have become an exclusive holiday
beach here, and it’s a popular spot for swimming and snorkelling. spot, but it remains relatively hidden, accessible only by a 10-minute walk down a dirt track.
PORTO DE GALINHAS, BRAZIL This HANALEI BAY, KAUA‘I, HAWAI‘I Hawai‘i is JOATINGA BEACH, BRAZIL As the coast
low-key resort in sunny Pernambuco is not short of great beaches, but Hanalei Bay, stretches south of Rio de Janeiro, the
known for its natural tide pools that form on Kaua‘i, is one of the most beautiful. This beaches become more beautiful and
in the reefs just a short distance offshore. 3-km (2-mile) crescent stretches from the secluded. Dense Atlantic forest dips into
These heat up in the sun and are ideal for base of a sheer cliff at one end to a craggy the ocean at Joatinga, which is sheltered
swimming and snorkelling. To the south bluff at the other, and is backed by lush on both sides by towering rocky outcrops.
is Maracaipu, a great beach for surfing. mountains that collect the morning mist. Surfers come here for the big swell.
TAYRONA, COLOMBIA Take a taxi to the Tyrona National Park visitor centre, and from MURI LAGOON, RARATONGA, COOK LUKA KORCULANSKA, CROATIA The
there, travel on horseback along a dense jungle path, teeming with swinging titi monkeys. ISLANDS Surrounded by a lagoon that sandy beach at Luka Korculanska protrudes
You’ll soon emerge on Arrecife Beach, a crescent of cream sand, where the wild ocean stretches to an offshore reef, and with into the clear waters of the Adriatic on a
crashes against huge boulders. This is a magnificent beach, but a dangerous place to forest-clad mountainous ridges, Raratonga wooded peninsula. It bustles with local
swim. Follow a series of precipitous paths through the forest, over rickety bridges, and is the most dramatic of the Cook Islands. families, the air filled with smells from
you’ll come to some calmer bays where you can submerge yourself in the Caribbean. Muri Lagoon, to the southeast of the island, open-air grills and food stalls. The beach
Despite a recent tourism boom, the infrastructure in Tayrona remains undeveloped, and boasts a beautiful stretch of pristine sand. is a leisurely 15-minute walk or a short boat
you are unlikely to see many other visitors. The nearest town is Santa Marta, a half-hour From here, you can paddle into the shallow ride from Korcula. This picturesque town,
drive away, and flights from Bogotá take just over an hour. There are some budget water to the uninhabited islets beyond, with its winding flower-filled alleys, is
cabañas on the beach, and a more upmarket eco-resort in the mountains. which are excellent for snorkelling. encircled by 14th-century fortress walls.
LAS ISLAS CIES, GALICIA, SPAIN These OFU BEACH, AMERICAN SAMOA The OXWICH BAY, GOWER, UK The Gower Peninsula in Wales, which juts into the Bristol
three granite islands are a far cry from the jagged, forested peaks of Piumfa and Channel, has a coastline pitted with secluded bays, rocky bluffs and sweeps of golden
Costa del Sol. They are isolated, wildly Sunuitao mountains loom over the 3-km sand. Oxwich is a 4-km (2½-mile) sandy stretch, backed by dunes and a salt marsh,
beautiful and buffeted by the Atlantic at (2-mile) stretch of coral sand on Ofu and is popular year-round for windsurfing, sailing and water-skiing. The quietest part of
the mouth of the Vigo river. The steep Island’s south coast. The offshore reef is the bay is on the eastern side, at Nicholaston Burrows. If you have time, walk on the coast
cliffs on their western shores feel the full home to 150 species of coral and 300 path to Oxwich Point, from which point there are great views back over the bay.
force of the ocean, while the eastern coast species of fish, but you’ll need to bring
is gentler, with rolling sand dunes and your own snorkelling equipment if you
calm waters. Glorious Praia das Roadas is want to see them – there is little in the
found here, its dunes sheltering a lagoon. way of tourist infrastructure here.
sports and activities
Sea kayaking in the calm, glacier-studded waters of Prince William Sound, Alaska (p238)
212
SP ORTS AND ACTIVITIES
Kicking Horse
vs Whistler
If you want your skiing steep, deep and powdery, forget the oft-visited, rain-drenched ski runs of Whistler and
head east into the frosty splendour of Kicking Horse, Canada’s coolest ski resort
NEED TO KNOW even has the finest mountain restaurant in Canada, Mounties and grizzly bears. The resort’s satellite
when you need a break from the action. You can town of Golden may not live up to its name, but it
LOCATION Kicking Horse is set
amid high mountains and forests
sit in said Eagle’s Eye Restaurant at a height of is a utilitarian blue-collar logging town that is far
above the Columbia River Valley 2,350 m (7,700 ft), gaze out across the snow-draped removed from the glamour that defines much of
and the town of Golden in Selkirk, Purcell, Kootenay and Rocky Mountain Whistler (so much the better, some might say).
southeastern British Columbia
$"/"%"
ranges and wonder about all the fuss over the The real gold however, lies 11 km (7 miles)
SKIABLE AREA 11 sq km
(4 sq miles) ,*$,*/()034& big guy to the west. uphill from Golden, where Kicking Horse’s small
SEASON Dec–Apr 7BODPVWFS $BMHBSZ Whistler may have vast amounts of terrain and selection of recently built hotels, bars and
0UUBXB
ACCESSIBILITY Roads are 5PSPOUP the famous big vertical, but who wants to ski if restaurants greets you, and the powder-white
well maintained, although access 64" it’s raining on the lower slopes and draped in bulks of the 2,450-m (8,035-ft) Blue Heaven and
may be difficult in snowy conditions
clouds on the upper slopes? Kicking Horse is the 2,410-m (7,900-ft) Terminator Peak loom above.
skier’s ski resort – the focus is on those wanting From these radiate a series of ridges from which
For years, Whistler has been the big boy of the to push themselves on challenging terrain, where deep chutes descend, attracting keen skiers from
Canadian ski scene, and with its hosting of the the skiing comes first and everything else, from all over the world. Almost every run off the two
2010 Winter Olympics, that situation is unlikely to nightlife to ease of access, is secondary. And, main ridges, CPR and Redemption, is a double
change soon. Yet, on the opposite side of British because of its ideal location, you often get the black diamond and the exciting descents that they
Columbia (BC), there is a far smaller resort which light, dry snowfall referred to as “champagne offer take you into snowy bowls, where a good,
proves that big isn’t necessarily best. powder”, which is great for skiing. hard turn will see the powder arcing over your
Kicking Horse, in the Canadian Rockies, has Just getting here is a mini adventure in itself – shoulder into a long, dry plume that hangs in the
skiing that will challenge the very best, is surrounded the spectacular drive from Calgary takes you air for several seconds after you’ve passed by.
by classic mountain wilderness and, to top it all, through the kind of scenery that was made for Who wouldn’t travel to the other side of British
Columbia for all that?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET WHISTLER?
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
THE BUILD-UP Huge vertical, a massive off-piste area, great lift The nearest international airport The award-winning Copper
system and buzzing nightlife make Whistler one of the world’s is at Calgary, about a 3-hour Lodge (www.kickinghorseresort.
most popular ski resorts – you’ll literally encounter skiers and drive to Golden. Shuttle services com) is boutique hotel
boarders from every corner of the globe on the resort’s slopes. from the airport to the resort are accommodation at its best, and
also available. The road is well it’s just a short walk from the
THE LETDOWN Being so popular means it’s often busy on the maintained but the drive may be Golden Eagle Express Gondola.
lifts, on the slopes and in the bars and restaurants. So if you like difficult in heavy snow.
When to Go
peace and quiet, this may not be for you. Whistler is located Where to Eat The season runs Dec–Apr. Skiing
relatively close to the Pacific Coast, which means the frequent The dining is just adequate, is possible before and after the
snowfalls here can be heavy in every sense of the word. While except at Eagle’s Eye Restaurant “official” season, but there will
bluebird days and powder are not uncommon, you may also (www.kickinghorseresort.com). be no lift access.
spend day after day under leaden skies and maybe even rain. Located at the mountaintop and
Budget per Day for Two
only accessible via the Golden
ABOVE Skiing enthusiasts parking their skis outside a Eagle Express Gondola, this is an £200 including food, lift pass, ski
GOING ANYWAY? Travel outside peak holiday periods to avoid busy mountain restaurant at Whistler hire and lessons.
absolute must for its sensational
the crowds; plan for alternative activities, should the weather locally produced food and Website
turn bad. Fortunately, Whistler has heaps of options. magnificent views. www.kickinghorseresort.com
213
Voss
NEED TO KNOW
A snowboarder performing a stunt spinning over mountain peaks at Skiers on the magnificent snow-covered slopes of Åre, Sweden’s
Sainte Foy, France
Kamchatka number-one ski resort
ACCESSIBILITY .BSTFJMMF
SEASON Early Nov–early May (ÚUFCPSH
#BMUJD
Excellent road and rail access ACCESSIBILITY Good road, 4FB
.FEJUFSSBOFBO
via Bourg St Maurice 41"*/ 4FB rail and air links
Skiing in Kamchatka is an almost surreal
experience. Many of the peaks your battered Mi-8
Don’t be fooled by the fact that Sainte Foy has a helicopter will drop you on have steam issuing Above Åre’s attractive pastel houses and shining
mere 25 km (15 miles) of pistes, for the off-piste in from cracks in their flanks; active volcanoes dot lake lies the best lift-accessed skiing in
this recently developed Alpine resort is extensive, the landscape and at the end of your run, you Scandinavia, with something for everyone. Those
challenging and relatively crowd-free, especially might find yourself on a black-sand beach that skiers wanting to head off-piste, in particular, will
compared to popular neighbours such as Les is being pounded by Pacific breakers. You may love the options here, including a great snowcat-
Arcs and Tignes. And it’s great for snowboarders. spot grizzly bears and sea eagles while skiing, and accessed run from the 1,420-m (4,660-ft) summit
It pays to get in with the locals in order to can easily clock up over 11,000 m (36,000 ft) of of Åreskutan. There’s also a fine array of novice
discover the best riding. Many of them will hike vertical per day. And it’s not unusual to wind it all and intermediate runs, allowing skiers and
from the top of the lifts to lay down fresh tracks up at the end of the day sipping Russian snowboarders of all abilities to enjoy a trip to
far away from skiers who are not in the know. But “champagne” in a natural hot spring, easily Scandinavia, the home of skiing.
even without local knowledge, you’ll enjoy some making Kamchatka the ski trip of a lifetime. Late-season skiing can be sublime as the sun
of the finest and most open terrain in the Alps rarely sinks beneath the horizon. And if you like to
here, especially late in the season. party hard, Åre provides plenty of entertainment.
Practical Information
Getting There and Around The only practical means of accessing
Practical Information Kamchatka is from the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky international airport, Practical Information
Getting There and Around There are excellent road links to the nearest which is 9 hours from Moscow. Accommodation is in the regional capital Getting There and Around Östersund airport is 1¹/ hours away and there
airports, Chambéry and Lyon, although the journey may take longer in bad of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Hotels are basic by western standards. are good road and rail links with all Sweden’s major cities. However, snow
weather. Eurostar service to Bourg St Maurice operates through the winter. You will have to bring all your own ski gear and spares as nothing is may make road access difficult.
When to Go Dec–Apr. Late season has almost empty pistes, longer days available in the town. When to Go February onwards – midwinter has short days and is very
and warmer weather. When to Go Apr–May, as midwinter weather is too unpredictable. cold. Late season is often best due to longer days and uncrowded slopes.
Website www.saintefoy.net Website www.eaheliskiing.com Website www.skistar.com
216
SP ORTS AND ACTIVITIES
FORGET THE
LONDON
MARATHON?
THE BUILD-UP London is undoubtedly one
of the world’s top marathons, in terms of its
number of competitors, and for the top-ranking
runners it attracts. Begun in 1981, it has since
built up a huge following, with the streets lined
4 MORE MARATHONS TO
RIVAL LONDON
EVEREST MARATHON, NEPAL The highest marathon in the
world at 5,180 m (17,000 ft). Runners even have to walk up to
the start at Gorak Shep, which helps acclimatize to the oxygen-
depleted air. Held in November (www.everestmarathon.org.uk).
ATHENS, GREECE The original first run, from Marathon to the
Greek capital held in 490 BC. Unlike the heroic Phidippides,
today’s runners don’t do this marathon in full military gear. Hot
and hilly, every November (www.athensmarathon.com).
ICE MARATHON, ANTARCTICA Try running 42 km (26 miles)
in -20°C (-4°F), buffeted by katabatic winds, at a 3,050-m
(10,000-ft) altitude and a few hundred miles from the South
Pole. Madness, every December (www.icemarathon.com).
TWO OCEANS, SOUTH AFRICA This 56-km (35-mile) ultra-
marathon, the “world’s most beautiful marathon”, links both
the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Held on the Saturday of Easter
weekend (www.twooceansmarathon.org.za).
218
SP ORTS AND ACTIVITIES
FORGET TANGO IN
BUENOS AIRES?
THE BUILD-UP The capital of Argentina has
plenty of European sophistication and style,
Mount Stanley
vs Mount Kilimanjaro ABOVE Trekkers heading towards the summit of Africa’s
legendary Mount Kilimanjaro
Those who climb Mount Stanley are promised a breathtaking variety of flora, fauna
and terrain that puts Africa’s more famous giant, Mount Kilimanjaro, to shame FORGET MOUNT
KILIMANJARO?
THE BUILD-UP Mount Kilimanjaro, which
is the highest peak in Africa, is the tallest
Rwenzori Mountains, including colobus and blue mountain in the world that is accessible to
NEED TO KNOW
monkeys, which chatter in the forest canopies, hikers, and requires no technical mountaineering
LOCATION Mount Stanley lies bushbucks and antelopes, which graze near lakes expertise. Rising above the Serengeti, the broad,
in Rwenzori National Park, on
the border between Uganda and meadows, and mountain elephants, golden snowcapped summit is an alluring fixture on
and the Democratic %&.3&1 cats and leopards. And nearly 200 species of the horizon throughout much of Kenya and
$0/(0 -BLF
Republic of Congo "MCFSU 6("/%" endemic and migratory birds, from colourful Tanzania. And the opportunity to visit some of
HIGHEST POINT .06/5 )PJNB
turacos to bee-eaters, reside in the lowland jungles. Africa’s finest game parks before climbing the
5,109 m (16,763 ft) 45"/-&: ,BNQBMB fabled mountain has undeniable appeal.
FIRST CLIMBED In 1906, #VUFNCP
-BLF
The terrain on Mount Stanley, Africa’s third
by the Italian mountaineer &EXBSE -BLF
7JDUPSJB
highest peak, is tougher than that found on either
and prince Luigi Amedeo THE LETDOWN The major ascent routes are
38"/%"
Mount Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya. The Rwenzori consistently crowded, and on the most popular
CLIMBERS PER YEAR Fewer than 1,000
Mountains – also known as “The Mountains of the of these, dubbed the “Coca-Cola Route”, you’ll
Moon” because of their rocky white peaks – are find camps selling drinks and snacks. Wildlife
Explorers returning from Africa to Europe in the sliced with deep-cut gorges, rivers and ravines. sightings, even at lower levels, are rare and the
mid-19th century were met with scepticism when Once you get near the summit, you’ll need to rope terrain at higher levels is often less than
they claimed to have seen ice and snow atop up and use an ice axe and crampons to traverse picturesque. There are many inexperienced
Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, both of the Elena Glacier, before making the final push climbers here who shortcut acclimatization, are
which stand just miles from the equator. But by the towards the summit. In addition to the challenging unfit for the challenge and never see the summit.
time the British explorer Henry Morton Stanley landscape, be prepared for more rain and lower
GOING ANYWAY? If seeing Mount Kilimanjaro’s
returned home in 1889 with tales of a dazzling set visibility than you might find on other African peaks,
steadily shrinking glacier before it disappears is
of six glaciated summits in central Africa’s Rwenzori along with some dicey river crossings and knee-deep
still on your must-do list, make sure you go with
Mountains – the tallest of which was named mud. But the rewards are spectacular. The a reputable operator that is committed to your
Mount Stanley in his honour – the extraordinary mountain’s tricky terrain and near-constant wet safety and the fair treatment of porters. These
reality began to sink in. Today, thousands of people weather explain why this UNESCO World Heritage operators are likely to recommend less-congested
travel to Africa’s equatorial peaks for their challenging Site is so unspoilt, lush and full of life. routes offering gradual acclimatization and,
climbs, picturesque scenery and to experience the therefore, a better chance of summit success.
strange existence of near-Arctic conditions in the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
tropics. But while some 20,000 people flock to
fabled Mount Kilimanjaro every year, fewer than Getting There and Around package, and is usually in simple
1,000 people visit Mount Stanley, which boasts The Rwenzori Mountains are wooden huts along the circuit.
best accessed from Kasese in
all the majesty, much more wildlife and none of When to Go
southwest Uganda, which is Due to its equatorial setting,
the crowds of its more famous rival. about 300 km (185 miles) –
One of the most spectacular features of tropical Mount Stanley can be climbed
or a 5- to 6-hour journey on
at any time of year, but July to
mountains is the wealth of different ecosystems and paved roads – from Kampala’s
mid-September and December
extraordinary biodiversity found on their slopes. Entebbe International Airport.
From Kasese, you can arrange to February do offer slightly
Mount Stanley is no exception. You’ll climb from drier conditions.
your trek into Rwenzori National
rainforest and moorland up to mossy forests and Park, which will include an Budget per Day for Two
bogs, and finally onto glaciated alpine terrain. The ascent of Mount Stanley. An eight-day guided trek in the
mountain’s abundant rainfall gives rise to weird and Where to Eat Rwenzori Mountains, including a
wonderful plants, including heather that grows up Meals included in climb of Mount Stanley, meals,
trekking packages to the accommodation and porters is
to 6 m (20 ft) high and giant groundsels and
Rwenzori Mountains. about £500 for two people.
lobelia, which look more like miniature trees than
Where to Stay Website
ground cover. Wildlife-spotting on Mount Stanley is
Accommodation also comes part www.rwenzorimountaineering
also superb, and far superior to that of Mount and parcel with your trekking services.com
Kilimanjaro. Over 70 mammal species inhabit the
221
The jagged granite summit of Mount Wilhelm, Rising over 9,000 m (30,000 ft) from the ocean Less than 10 degrees south of the equator lies the
the highest peak in Papua New Guinea, is quite a floor, Hawai‘i’s Mauna Loa is both the largest world’s highest tropical mountain range, Peru’s
departure from the highland route that leads you volcano and mountain in the world. Yet from a Cordillera Blanca (see also p85). These mountains,
there, which ascends through dense rainforest, distance, its gently sloping sides and apparently which cradle hundreds of glaciers and form part
temperate mountain forest and open grassland flat summit belie this magnitude. The volcano’s of South America’s continental divide, contain
before breaking out into rugged alpine terrain. 63-km (39-mile) circular trekking route cuts no less than 27 rugged summits that are higher
The trek to the top of the mountain takes three across a spectacular landscape of different types than Mount Kilimanjaro and are cut sharply by
to four days and although it isn’t technical, it of exposed lava, and although it’s virtually lifeless plunging glacial valleys. It’s a mountaineer’s
involves some steep scrambling near the top. The here – there are no plants, animals or birds in dream. The most accessible of these towering
snowfields that used to carpet the mountain no sight – the surreal rock formations provide a peaks is Copa, which can be climbed up and
longer exist, but the air in the higher elevations fascinating backdrop to the trail. As you approach either climbed or skied down. Burros carry your
is still cool and crisp. From the summit on a clear the summit caldera, cinder cones, gas emissions equipment to a base camp, from which point
day there are spectacular views north to the and ground swelling serve as a constant you will follow the tongue of a glacier that leads
Pacific Ocean and small coastal islands. reminder that this is an active volcano, with to a route up the mountain’s western ridge.
plenty of punch still remaining.
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There and Around Fly into Goroka, which is in the centre of Papua Practical Information Getting There and Around From the Peruvian capital, Lima, it’s an
New Guinea. Here you can join an organized trekking group and travel by Getting There and Around Fly into Hilo and either rent a car or catch a 8-hour bus ride to Huaraz, where you can acclimatize before taking
shuttle bus to a base camp on Mount Wilhelm. shuttle bus from there to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, which is a a 2-hour ride by local bus or private shuttle to the trail head.
When to Go The best climbing conditions are from May to November. 45-minute drive away. When to Go The best time to climb Copa is in the dry season, which
Website www.pngtrekkingadventures.com When to Go Mauna Loa can be climbed at any time of year, though the is from May to September.
weather is best between June and August. Website For general information on the Cordillera Blanca visit
The barren rocky summit of Mount Wilhelm, Papua New Guinea, set Website www.nps.gov/havo www.peaksandplaces.com
against a brilliant blue sky
Lone hiker on top of the expansive, gently sloping summit of The dramatic snowcapped summit of Copa, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Mauna Loa, Hawai’i, USA
223
FIRST CLIMBED
meadow. Like the rainforest below it, the mountain In 1872 by German geologist
& $ 6"% 03
In 1858 by British 1PUJBOBL #PSOFP 4BNBSJOEB boasts a wealth of unusual fauna, including giant Wilhelm Reiss and Colombian (VBZBRVJM
1B DJmD
naturalist Sir Hugh Low red leeches that prey on giant earthworms, Ángel Escobar 0 DF B O
*/%0/&4*" 1&36
CLIMBERS PER YEAR extraordinary rhinoceros hornbills – birds that CLIMBERS PER YEAR -PKB
Around 50,000 Around 5,000
look as if they have a shoe attached to their heads
– and the threatened orang-utan, one of the four
On anyone’s list of bizarre flora, a carnivorous great apes. Pygmy squirrels, fruit bats and brightly Cotopaxi, which is known locally as “the neck of
plant that can eat small mammals would certainly coloured tropical birds share the forest canopy on the moon” because of its near-perfect symmetrical
be near the top. On the same list you would also the steep mountain slopes. Hand-carved stone cone that seems to stretch forever upwards, is one
expect to find the parasitic Rafflesia plant, which steps, moss-covered wooden stairs and fixed of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Its
has the largest flower in the world and is also ropes assist trekkers on the trail’s steeper sections. last eruption, in 1877, sent pyroclastic rivers of fire
known as the “corpse flower” because it smells The final leg of the climb emerges onto a slippery streaming down all sides of the mountain, melting
and looks like rotting flesh. These are just two of surface of exposed granite that leads to the glaciers along the way and carving deep valleys
the extraordinary plants found in the jungles of summit and boasts fantastic panoramas. with scorching mudflows that ran as far as the
Borneo, where the ascent of mighty Mount Pacific Ocean, 100 km (60 miles) to the west.
Kinabalu begins in a shuttle bus carrying trekkers Practical Information Today, trekkers either camp or stay in huts on the
to the trail head. The jungle also boasts more than Getting There and Around A 3-hour bus journey takes you from Kota
mountain, where the most popular route to the
800 orchid species and 600 fern species – to put Kinabalu Airport to Kinabalu National Park, where you join your tour group. summit can be climbed in a long day from a hut
this in context, there are only 500 fern species in When to Go Mount Kinabalu can be climbed at any time of year, but is at 4,800 m (15,800 ft). Though not a terribly difficult
most enjoyable in the dry season, which is from February to April. climb, it should only be attempted by experienced
Climbers roping up for the challenging ascent of Mount Kinabalu’s Website www.sabahparks.org.my mountaineers with appropriate climbing kit.
rocky summit, Borneo
Practical Information
Getting There and Around From Quito, local and shuttle buses run to
Cotopaxi National Park, which is an hour to the south.
When to Go Cotopaxi can be climbed at any time of year, although January,
June, July and December offer particularly clear, dry days.
Website www.moggely.com
FORGET ST ANDREWS?
THE BUILD-UP As the self-proclaimed “home
of golf ”, St Andrews has welcomed golfers for
more than six centuries. Though commonly
referred to as a single course, St Andrews is
NEED TO KNOW effortlessly, rotates slightly to ponder on the moray eel, which frequently pokes its nose up from
ungainly nature of the intruder suspended before deep inside hard coral formations to view divers as
LOCATION Christmas Island */%0/&4*"
is in the Indian Ocean, 360 km
+ BWB it, and then slides on by. A pod of spinner dolphins they pass by its lair.
(225 miles) south of Java $)3*45."4 %BSXJO
follows in its wake, mother and babies playfully Rising up from the depths of the Indian Ocean,
*4-"/%
SCUBA DIVING enclosing you, running rings around you and hoping this rainforest-clad island is actually the tip of an
Christmas Island boasts for a new playmate. And in all this time there is no ancient volcano. Its tortuous limestone base has
steep walls, shallow reefs "6453"-*"
and safe cave dives one else in sight other than your diving buddy and been shaped over millions of years by the waves
DAYTIME 1FSUI 4ZEOFZ
a divemaster. It’s a far cry from the more famous, that lap the island and by rainwater that sinks into
"EFMBJEF
TEMPERATURES but eternally crowded, Great Barrier Reef. the porous rock, creating a honeycomb effect
Jan: 25°C (77°F); Apr: 26°C (79°F); $BOCFSSB
4 PVUIFSO
Jul: 24°C (75°F); Oct: 25°C (77°F) 0 DFBO Christmas Island is actually best known not for beneath the surface. This rugged, potholed
its scuba diving, but for its extraordinary red-crab landscape continues into the ocean, where
migration – a spectacle that takes place every year countless underwater caves coax you back into
Your first descent into the crystal-clear blue water when millions of the scarlet creatures emerge from your diving gear and beneath the surface. You
surrounding Christmas Island will be nothing short the rainforest and walk en masse down to the sea enter the splendid Thundercliff Cave, on the shore
of breathtaking. Beneath the surface lies the most to spawn. At this time, the shallow water turns side of the immaculate fringing coral reef, at a
luxurious of hard coral reefs – a colourful, lush pink with eggs, but beyond that the sea remains depth of 16 m (53 ft) and through a series of pitch-
display that is almost ostentatious in its beauty. The aquamarine, completely pristine and utterly black grottoes that are decorated with stalactites
view goes on forever, way down to the depths of deserted except for its wealth of marine residents. and stalagmites. A little further on, you ascend to
the Indian Ocean. Brilliant rays of sunlight cast The island has more indigenous species than an extraordinary subterranean beach where you
stripes of turquoise through the sea and highlight anywhere else on the planet except the Galapagos can take off your dive gear and continue exploring
the flapping motion of a distant wing. Pause mid- Islands, and some of the marine creatures are on foot. It won’t be long before you see that you’re
water and wait for the manta ray as it approaches unique too, including the exotic-looking dragon inside an enormous cavern that is as beautiful and
grand as any Gothic cathedral.
LOCATION Tufi is 1B D J m D 0 D F B O
LOCATION The Gulf of LOCATION Lighthouse Reef .&9*$0
.FEJUFSSBOFBO
on Papua New Guinea’s Aqaba borders Jordan, Egypt, 4 FB is 80 km (50 miles) southeast of
4:3*"
southeastern coastline 8FXBL
Israel and Saudi Arabia the capital, Belize City
SCUBA DIVING Tufi has 3BCBVM SCUBA DIVING "M3BNUÈ SCUBA DIVING #&-*;& #FMJ[F$JUZ
incredible offshore reefs and The shallows boast patches of *43"&- "NNBO Gently shelving lagoons are
-BF #FMNPQBO -*()5)064&
superlative “muck diving” reef while the deeper waters divided from the ocean here
have coral-coated slopes by small, raised reefs 3&&'
DAYTIME 1" 16" / &8 (6* / &"
+03 % " /
TEMPERATURES 1PSU DAYTIME DAYTIME $BSJCCFBO
.PSFTCZ
56'* 1FUSB 4"6%*
Jan: 27°C (80°F); Apr: 31°C TEMPERATURES "3"#*" TEMPERATURES Jan: 27°C 4FB
4BO"OUPOJP
(88°F); Jul: 28°C (82°F); $PSBM4FB
Jan: 12°C (55°F); Apr: 32°C (91°F); (81°F); Apr: 30°C (85°F); Jul: 30°C
Oct: 29°C (84°F) "6453"-*" Jul: 36°C (98°F); Oct: 26°C (78°F) "2"#" (86°F); Oct: 29°C (84°F) (6"5&."-"
Papua New Guinea is one of tourism’s last frontiers. The city of Aqaba sits at the top of Jordan’s small Lighthouse Reef’s famous Blue Hole, explored
Many areas of the country, it is said, have never share of the Red Sea coast, but drive a short way by Frenchman Jacques Cousteau on his Calypso
been visited by Westerners. The village of Tufi sits towards the Saudi border and you’ll find pretty expedition of 1972, is the jewel in Belize’s diving
on a rugged, fjord-like coastline, its dive centre and uncrowded coral reefs that run right up to crown. This barren circular tunnel, which drops to
nestled in the crook of an inlet that was used for the shore. “Bommies” (coral outcrops) decorate a depth of 450 m (1,475 ft), has stalactites hanging
decades as a rubbish dump. It doesn’t sound the sand here like flowerbeds. Anthias, damselfish from a shelf at 40 m (130 ft), indicating that it was
alluring, but this mucky environment attracts and lionfish are common sights, while prehistoric once dry land. The only fish you’ll see are reef
unusual creatures that use the discarded objects slipper lobsters are more unusual. The wreck of the sharks and groupers, but venture into other areas
as camouflage. Blennies retreat inside old cola cargo vessel Cedar Pride, which sank in 1982, adds and you’ll find livelier spots, where bottom-feeding
bottles, harlequin shrimps hide beneath rusting a fascinating dimension to diving in the area. And rays dwell in sandy lagoons, pastel-toned sea
40-gallon drums and hairy robust ghost pipefish for those who like a dash of ancient history to plumes cover the raised barrier reef and pelagic
mimic red algae as it grows on ageing driftwood. balance their days at sea, nowhere is quite like species, including turtles, patrol the steep walls.
At a depth of 45 m (148 ft) you’ll also see an intact Jordan. Emerge from the reefs at the top of the Gulf
torpedo and a shell gun – reminders that this was of Aqaba and head inland to the rose-red city of Practical Information
an American forces station during World War II. Petra – the perfect foil for the underwater realm. Getting There and Around Flights to Belize City are available from most
major American cities. On arrival, your dive operator will arrange transport
to the sites, but Lighthouse Reef is best seen from a liveaboard boat.
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There Fly to Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, and Getting There and Around Flights land at Aqaba airport but few are When to Go This is an all-year destination, but from August to October
then hop on a small aircraft for the 40-minute transfer to Tufi. You’ll land direct – most go via the capital city, Amman. Aqaba is small enough there is more rain and a higher chance of hurricanes.
on the village football field. The resort is a short walk from here. to explore on foot. Dive centres provide transport to the sites. Website www.belizetourism.org
When to Go Visit at any time – the weather is great all year round. When to Go Diving is available all year round, but July and August can be
Website www.pngtourism.com unbearably hot, with temperatures reaching up to 50°C (122°F) at times. Aerial view of the awe-inspiring Blue Hole at Lighthouse Reef
Website www.aqaba.jo
A harlequin shrimp in the bay at Tufi
Orange lyretail anthias swimming on the reef, Gulf of Aqaba
229
Cappadocia ABOVE Mountain bikers on the famous Slickrock Trail, Utah, USA
4 MORE MOUNTAINBIKING
ROUTES TO RIVAL SLICKROCK
TRAIL 401, COLORADO, USA Colorado’s best mountain-biking
trail is 23 km (14 miles) long and boasts breathtaking views of
the two-peaked mountain known as the Maroon Bells, as well
as stands of flickering aspens and meadows full of wild flowers.
APOLOBAMBA ROAD, LA PAZ DEPARTMENT, BOLIVIA
Check your brake pads before you begin this hair-raising descent
on what has been called “the world’s most dangerous road”.
Here, sheer drop-offs, towering mountains and misty waterfalls
make for an exhilarating and intense 5-hour downhill run.
FREEDOM TRAIL, SOUTH AFRICA Set your sights on this
2,300-km (1,450-mile) route from Durban to Cape Town and
expect weeks on end of dirt roads and bike trails that traverse
wilderness areas, national parks and nature reserves.
SKYLINE TRAIL, SWANSEA, UK With over 2,000 m (6,600 ft)
of roller-coaster ascents and drops, this 46-km (29-mile) loop
delivers stunning views. Not for the unfit or faint of heart.
232
SP ORTS AND ACTIVITIES
FORGET TREKKING
IN CHIANG MAI?
THE BUILD-UP Located 700 km (435 miles)
north of Bangkok, Chiang Mai is the
undisputed trekking hub for Thailand’s
The fascinating Kingdom of Bhutan receives only 20,000 visitors a year – about as THE LETDOWN Over the past 30 years, Chiang
many as plod through Chiang Mai in four days Mai has become increasingly modern and more
congested, with a crowded city centre. It hosts
about 2 million tourists annually. Even though
it has a more relaxed atmosphere than Bangkok,
NEED TO KNOW interests, including mountain scenery, birding, Chiang Mai has lost much of its appeal to
agriculture and architecture. But regardless of trekkers in search of a remote forest trail.
LOCATION Bhutan is a
Himalayan kingdom bordered $)*/" the itinerary or the duration of the trek, being
by Tibet to the north and immersed in the rich cultural heritage of Bhutan is GOING ANYWAY? Chiang Mai can still be an
India to the south always a highlight. Even extended treks into high appealing getaway, provided you make a quick
VISITORS PER YEAR 5IJNQIV mountain regions will see you spend much of the exit for the hill country. Look for a reputable
About 20,000 1BSP #)65"/ local operator – as well as in Chiang Mai, many
DAYTIME 5BTI time in the lower-elevation villages, walking
can be found in nearby communities like Pai.
TEMPERATURES 1IVOUTIPMJOH through rice terraces, fields of millet and apple
Jan: 5°C (41°F); Apr: 14°C Opt for a trek that includes different hill-tribe
orchards before ascending to higher elevations villages so that you become familiar with varied
(56°F); Jul: 16°C (61°F); */%*"
Oct: 16°C (61°F) where semi-nomadic yak herders roam the hills. – and sometimes colourful – ethnic groups.
Dotting the landscape are medieval fortresses
known as dzongs and elegant monasteries – the
Considered to be a modern-day Shangri-La, Tiger’s Nest Monastery (Taktshang Goenmba) is
Bhutan is tucked below the southern slope of the the best known – all composed in a unique, almost
eastern Himalayas, with Tibet to the north and mystical architectural style. Wearing colourful
India to the south, and is one of the most remote traditional dress with knee-length gowns and
and protected lands on the planet. The country is draping cuffs is common among the locals, as is
slightly larger than Switzerland with a population practising traditional sports, such as archery, tug-
of about 2 million people, almost all of whom are of-war and digor, a kind of shot put.
connected to the land through agriculture. From After the trek, if time permits, spend a few days
the tops of the 7,000-m (22,960-ft) Himalayan in Thimphu, perhaps the only capital city in the
peaks, the land descends into high alpine slopes world with no traffic lights. What Bhutan lacks in ABOVE Crowds visiting Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, a highly
revered Buddhist temple near Chiang Mai
grazed by yaks and goats, into forests of spruce modern conveniences and tourist amenities, it
and oak which cover about 70 per cent of the more than makes up for with its gracious people,
country, and further down into fertile valleys and fascinating culture and diverse scenic appeal.
a low, subtropical southern strip. Although only 10
per cent of the land is arable, the soil is so rich and PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the climate so favourable it can grow almost any
crop. It’s no wonder that the country is completely Getting There and Around Where to Stay
There are only two ways to enter With rooms heated by iron
self-sufficient in its food production.
Bhutan. You can either enter from stoves and hot-water bags
Bhutan remains preserved as one of the India along a single road that placed in your bed, the
least deforested countries in the world, and crosses the border, or you can fly Dewachen Hotel (tel. +975 244
hunting is prohibited by law and religion. In this into Bhutan’s only airport in Paro, 2550; www.dewachenhotel.
predominantly Buddhist kingdom, traditional on the country’s flagship airline, com) in Gangtey is a
culture is rigorously preserved in a society where Druk Air. Be sure you have made wonderfully traditional
prepaid travel arrangements and experience. Set in a pine forest, it
myth and legend are inseparable from the land offers convenient trekking
have secured a visa in advance.
and people. Since tourism is limited and unguided Independent travel is not options in the area.
travel is not permitted, you won’t find armies of permitted in Bhutan. When to Go
budget backpackers, banana pancakes in every Where to Eat Mar–May and Sep–Nov are
teahouse, cluttered campgrounds and legions of Be forewarned – Bhutanese food ideal for trekking.
bars as in Chiang Mai and other places where is spicy hot, but the Bhutan Budget per Day for Two
trekking is the lifeblood of the economy. Kitchen (tel. +975 233 1919) in Around £200 including the
Thimphu offers a pleasing setting services of a guide, meals
Trekking in Bhutan is decidedly not adventure
with a well-prepared local and accommodation.
on a shoestring, but it is an exquisite journey into a
cuisine that can be tempered to Website
diverse natural environment and a captivating the Western palate. www.tourism.gov.bt
culture. Bhutan can cater to a wide range of
233
Tandragee 100
THE LETDOWN The Isle of Man is a costly
event to travel to. Accommodation can also be
a problem unless you book almost a year in
advance. Each lap lasts around 17 minutes, so
there is a limited number of opportunities to see
vs TT Races
your favourite riders in action. Racing takes
place every second day, so to make it worth-
while, you need to stay at least for a few days.
For elbow-to-elbow, death-defying motorcycle racing on narrow, bumpy roads the GOING ANYWAY? Book as far in advance as
possible, as it fills up as soon as the previous TT
Tandragee 100 is the full-flavour taste sensation compared to the half-fat TT ends. You may be able to find a room with the
residents of the Isle of Man, who, as part of a
“Home Stay” project, rent out spare rooms to
NEED TO KNOW budgets, the Department of Tourism and local visitors. Hire a vehicle to get to the vantage
business. Tandragee has none of that – riders race points on the 63-km (38-mile) circuit.
LOCATION Tandragee is
on the edge of the Glebe Hills
and families visit for the love of the sport.
"UMBOUJD
along the River Cusher in Co 0DFBO The race takes place on a 9-km (5-mile) open-
Armagh, Northern Ireland (MBTHPX &EJOCVSHI road circuit which, put simply, you would be mad
WHEN First Sat in May; free entry /PSUI to race on at 80 kmph (50 mph), never mind the
#FMGBTU 4FB
NUMBER OF VISITORS
13–15,000
5"/%3"(&& .BODIFTUFS 240 kmph (150 mph) the racers reach and exceed.
%VCMJO
DAYTIME *3&-"/%
6/*5&% Scars of tractor tyre imprints mix with dripped
,*/(%0.
TEMPERATURES May: 17°C
-POEPO
remains from slurry tankers to create a slippery
(62°F) and below freezing at night; slime. The narrow roads boast spectacular
rain is always a possibility
motocross-style jumps, projecting man and
machine into the air at over 160 kmph (100 mph). ABOVE Bikers preparing for the Isle of Man TT races in the
purpose-built paddocks
Motorcycle racing is not all about the biggest If there is an edge, then the riders are right on it.
being best. Tandragee is a small unassuming One mistake and it is likely to be their last.
town in Northern Ireland that is probably not on The TT Races boast a purpose-built, ticket-
anyone’s holiday destination wish-list. Scratch controlled complex of paddock buildings where
below the surface, though, and you will find a bikes and competitors prepare. At Tandragee, the
town of friendly people who know how to squeeze paddock is a more charming open-access field,
the very pips out of life. They love to party hard where, in the past, buckets of water have been PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and know their motorcycle racing like the backs supplied to scrub mud from slick tyres.
Getting There and Around prepared from local beef cattle,
of their hands. It is a way of life for the town’s Half-a-dozen races entertain the appreciative The airport closest to Tandragee and the salmon, which is served
residents, as much as the Sunday visit to church. crowds, with everything from the buzzing is in Belfast (Belfast City Airport), fresh from the coast.
The TT Races held on the Isle of Man are the 192-kmph (120-mph) 125 cc “smoke burners” which is about 50 km (30 miles)
Where to Stay
biggest tourist attraction of the year, backed by big to the 320-kmph (200-mph) Superbikes. Visitors from the town. From there, it is
best to hire a car, as Tandragee is Self-catering accommodation is
burrow into hedgerows and climb trees that line available in the form of a quaint
a little off the beaten track.
the circuit. When the bikes go by at speed, the true However, if you plan on travelling gate lodge (tel. +44 28 3752
fan is only a few inches away in the undergrowth, by motorbike, you can take the 4256) located on Tandragee
camera in hand and heart beating fast in case the ferry from Stranraer, situated in Road, which is a short drive from
rider is off-line and on a collision course. western Scotland, to Belfast. both Tandragee and another
The riders all set off at once, not in a time trial Alternatively, you can board the town called Markethill.
ferry from Holyhead to Dublin,
one-at-a-time format as in the TT. Perhaps part of Budget per Day for Two
located 133 km (80 miles)
the appeal of watching the massed start of the £100, including car hire,
from Tandragee.
race is the close association with danger and death food and accommodation for
Where to Eat 3 nights at the gate lodge
– it is as tangible as the smell of two-stroke oil. Moneypenny’s Restaurant located in Tandragee.
The TT offers a certain amount of danger in the Montagu Arms
(www.montagu-arms.com) Websites
and excitement in a sanitized-health-and-safety
offers a cosmopolitan menu www.realroadracing.com
controlled sort of way; Tandragee is back to basics,
along with traditional “Ulster www.discovernorthern
raw by comparison and all about passion. Which fayre”. You should try the steak, ireland.com
ABOVE A duelling pair of racers rounding a bend at Tandragee would you prefer?
235
RAFTING THE KARNALI, NEPAL Nepal is home to the highest mountains on earth, and DOG SLEDDING, FINLAND Forget Father Christmas – Lapland’s real draw is its
the rivers that run down them are fast, deep and brimming with whitewater as a result. awesome scenery and tangible sense of remoteness. Winters are long and dark,
The Karnali is Nepal’s longest river, and a multi-day trip along it marries tricky, adrenalin- summers short and magnificent, and the sky seems impossibly vast. The husky dogs
charged early sections with calmer moments towards its end. The route also takes in here are fascinating, charismatic creatures, blending the enthusiasm typical of domestic
some of Nepal’s most dramatic scenery, including jagged mountains, lush jungle and dogs with otherworldly looks and phenomenal strength and stamina. Enter a tug-of-
rare pockets of savanna. The river runs through remote Bardia National Park, offering the war with one and you’ll be yanked off your feet, but taking the reins is a wonderful
chance to see rhinos, wild elephants and crocodiles. sensation, and speeding through the snow on a sled an achingly beautiful experience.
SPHEREING, ROTORUA, NEW ZEALAND People had tried rolling around in giant balls SEA KAYAKING, PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND, ALASKA You may have paddled down
before of course – and hamsters have been doing it for years – but the sulphurous, rivers or lakes, but kayaking on the sea really is something else. The ocean seems to
activity-mad town of Rotorua is where sphereing (or “zorbing”, as the locals call it) really breathe beneath you, its vast expanse making you feel at once utterly insignificant and
took off. Participants clamber into giant cushioned balls, wobble their way through a connected to something very big indeed. And if it’s scale you want, this southern dent in
starting gate and then careen down a 200-m (656-ft) hill or zig-zag course, spinning Alaska’s great bulk is the place to be. Its calm waters mean even beginners can paddle
head over heels in a breathless and completely undignified rush. A “wet” ride adds soapy past icebergs, watch glaciers calve and spot whales and sea otters; experts can range far
water to the equation, for the full spin-cycle experience. and wide, packing gear into canoe bags and camping on remote stretches of the coast.
PLANICA SKI JUMP, SLOVENIA FISHING, DENMARK Denmark’s KLOOFING, SOUTH AFRICA While
Skiing is Slovenia’s national sport, and complex coastline is dotted with islands, most of the world calls it canyoning,
more records have been set at these fjords and beaches. Nowhere in the South Africans have their own word for
jumps than anywhere else in the world. country is more than 53 km (33 miles) the practice of throwing oneself off cliffs
It’s unlikely you’ll fancy braving any of from the sea, and sea-fishing trips to into pools, sliding down rivers and
them yourself (the drops look utterly catch cod, mackerel, sea trout and eel are scrambling up wet rocks. There are
intimidating) but the annual World Cup justifiably popular. Permits are easy to bigger drops elsewhere, but Cape Town’s
event, held in late March, attracts hordes obtain and well-stocked rivers and lakes Table Mountain National Park offers the
of spectators – there for the party and inland ensure that there’s plenty to keep finest collection of kloofs (ravines) so
the sight of the daring athletes. anglers happy too. close to a major city.
WRESTLING, MEXICO CITY Faster, BUSHWALKING THE OVERLAND SKI-JORING, SWITZERLAND If simply
more dexterous and more reliant on TRACK, AUSTRALIA There are some going with the slope’s flow in one of
aerial stunts than their American cousins, stellar alternatives, but the king of Switzerland’s many ski resorts is getting
Mexico’s wrestlers would create a Australia’s bushwalking destinations is in a little boring, you may want to consider
spectacle even without the culture that laid-back Tasmania. The Overland Track ski-joring, in which horses drag skiers
has grown up around them. In lucha libre takes five to six days, and you’ll have to along the flat in a shower of snow.
(free fighting) most competitors don carry enough food to see you through. Regular spectator races will give you
masks and adopt fake identities: some Tramping past shimmering tarns and an idea of what’s involved – in St Moritz
are técnicos (the skilful good guys), others grand peaks you may see wombats, you can even watch experts whizzing
rudos (the bullyboys and cheats). Tasmanian devils and even platypuses. along behind galloping reindeer.
239
SAILING THE ADRIATIC The sparkling blue sleeve of the Adriatic skirts Italy’s eastern CYCLING THE LOIRE, FRANCE Take HOT AIR BALLOONING, TURKEY
shore on one side, and those of Croatia, Montenegro and Albania on the other. Croatia’s advantage of the “Loire-à-Vélo” scheme The ancient volcanic landscape of
dusty coast and charming islands are increasingly popular stops for sailors – whether to explore the glorious châteaux and Cappadocia (see pp230–31) is at its most
they’re trying the activity for the first time or taking their own boats on epic routes vineyards of the Loire Valley. You can fantastical seen from above, as dawn
around the Med. Picturesque Hvar and lively Split make fine stops, but if you want to wend your way along the river on over creeps up over its weird and wonderful
venture further off the beaten track, Albania is becoming increasingly hip, its classical 300 km (190 miles) of designated cycle rock formations. Balloons take flight from
sites and mountainous interior as appealing as its developing beach scene. routes between Orléans and the Atlantic. the town of Göreme.
CAVING, PUERTO RICO In the wild heart MOUNTAINBOARDING, ITALIAN DOLOMITES Mountainboards are not the most
of Puerto Rico is a compelling subterranean graceful pieces of sports kit, their flexible bodies set off by four oversized rubber tyres.
world of vast caves, submerged rivers and Riding them, twisting your body into turns and crouching down over bumps, can feel
huge stalagmites. Sightseeing tours around even more ungainly. The gear isn’t cheap and the sport is still in its early stages, but
Río Camuy give you a taste, while organized week-long instruction courses are a fine way to hone your skills. The resort town of
expeditions in the hills nearby include Cortina offers rolling slopes on which to bust those fly moves – and some rather flash
abseiling, canyoning and stunning hikes. shopping opportunities if you feel the need to regain some elegance after class.
HORSE SAFARIS IN THE MASAI MARA, KENYA The mind-boggling Great Migration, in WATCHING JAI ALAI, THE SCRAMBLE UP TRYFAN, WALES
which zebras, wildebeests and gazelles sweep across the savanna, looks sensational on PHILIPPINES Often claimed to be the Two legends are attached to this mountain.
TV and thrilling from the safety of a vehicle. However, to really get an eye on the action, fastest game on earth – the handmade The first is that it’s the only mountain in
try making your own way across the Serengeti on horseback. Riders can join tour groups rubber balls can fly at over 240 kph Wales you can’t climb without using your
in Kenya on trips lasting a week or longer, cantering alongside and amongst the herds, (150 mph) – jai alai was imported to the hands – the scramble up its jutting crags
while spotting lions, hippos and elephants along the way. You do need previous Philippines from Spain’s Basque country. requires considerable concentration and
experience in the saddle (most companies will only take skilled riders), but the area’s It’s a furious spectacle, vaguely related to a head for heights. The second is that by
altitude means that neither the temperature nor the mosquitos are too troubling and, handball, in which players sling the ball making the leap between two pillar-like
while the days can be exhausting, expeditions generally come with luxuries such as from basketed hands against a massive rocks at its summit (915 m/3,000 ft) you
chefs, beer and ice cubes. wall, cheered on by fanatical crowds. earn the “Freedom of Tryfan”.
WATCHING THAI BOXING, THAILAND WINDSURFING, PENGHU ISLANDS, KITESURFING, PREÁ, BRAZIL First
Strongly ritualistic, shockingly violent and TAIWAN Lying around 50 km (30 miles) things first: kitesurfing is not easy, and
followed with real passion throughout west of the mainland, the Penghu all too often you end up wrestling with
Thailand, Muay Thai is one hell of a Archipelago is a popular retreat for the wind and cursing. Yet while it has
spectacle. Catch a fight in Bangkok, Taiwanese holiday-makers. The winds a tricky learning curve (lessons for
where clamorous, hard-gambling crowds that eroded its distinctive stacks and cliffs beginners are almost essential),
and hammering percussion serve as the also make it a world-famous windsurfing kitesurfing is not a world away from
backdrop for nightly fights. You can even destination – home both to international windsurfing, and Preá beach, with its
undertake training yourself – with no competitions and numerous rental warm waters and almost constant
obligation to actually step into the ring. outfits offering lessons to beginners. breeze, is a superb place to learn.
240
SP ORTS AND ACTIVITIES
TOUR SKATING, SWEDEN Skating rinks, whether you zoom round them with poised CAPOEIRA, BRAZIL Like many martial arts, capoeira came into existence because of the
efficiency or wobble your way along the barriers, are fine for a few sessions. But if you don’t limitations placed on the poorer members of society – in Brazil’s case, slaves who were
want to be restricted to such a small area, there are alternatives. Tour skaters use longer, forbidden from carrying weapons or practising formal fighting techniques. Couched in the
thinner blades, often attached to skiing boots, which are far more stable than figure skates, movements of dance, the kicks, spins, cartwheels and blocks of modern capoeira are
meaning that even beginners can cover around 10 km (6 miles) on a lake, river or canal. generally backed by the beat of the single-stringed berimbau. The relaxed coastal city of
Sweden presents a wealth of clubs that can point you in the right direction; for the more Salvador is regarded as the activity’s heartland, and as well as the displays on the city’s
experienced, forays onto frozen stretches of the Baltic Sea are possible. streets, visitors are welcome at the various schools around town, either to watch or learn.
LUMBERJACK WORLD HORSE-RIDING, KYRGYZSTAN WALKING THE CHORO TRAIL, BOLIVIA Peru’s Inca Trail is, of course, magnificent – but
CHAMPIONSHIPS, USA Wisconsin’s Follow part of the Silk Road, Central Asia’s it’s also busy, and hikers are restricted to joining organized groups. Landlocked Bolivia
vast pine forests make it an obvious ancient trade route, on horseback through arguably has better trekking and mountaineering opportunities, many close to its
base for this three-day festival of sawing, Kyrgyzstan. Canter across the wide, open sprawling high-altitude capital, La Paz. The Choro Trail follows Inca paths past ancient
chopping and climbing, which features steppes dotted with traditional yurts (felt remains, over mountain passes and into thick cloud forest, and should take three or four
several hundred competitors, 12,000 tents) and over the high passes of the days. It’s a fine way to experience Bolivia’s unique environment, with impossibly blue,
spectators and a whole lot of wood. awesome Tien Shan mountains. broad skies, rare birdlife and glimpses of the Altiplano’s ancient civilizations.
CRICKET IN THE TROBRIAND ISLANDS, PLAYING CARAMBOLE POOL, THE SKIING IN YONGPYEONG, KOREA
PAPUA NEW GUINEA The inhabitants NETHERLANDS Of all the takes on It’s not the most obvious haven for snow
of the remote Trobriand Islands play their everyday billiards, carambole pool is one hounds, but South Korea’s substantial
own unique form of cricket. The Trobriands of the more unusual. It dispenses with mountains and freezing winters have
come to life during the Milamala Festival, pockets entirely; instead, you carom your put the country in the running for several
usually in July or August, when cricket cue ball into other balls, and rebound off Winter Olympics. Yongpyeong (or Dragon
combines with raucous festivities – the table edges. In Amsterdam’s numerous Valley) is the country’s largest resort, and
presumably not what the missionaries bars, experts put impossible amounts of the 31 runs here offer a variety of terrains,
who introduced the sport had in mind. spin on their shots – and most will be lined with trees and often blessed with
delighted to give you a lesson. sharp blue skies.
KAYAKING IN GWAII HAANAS SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX September KAYAKING THE ARDÈCHE, FRANCE
NATIONAL PARK, CANADA The 2008 saw Singapore host its first Grand Prix The limestone of the Ardèche valley in
archipelago that makes up Gwaii Haanas – and Formula One hold its first night-time France’s grand Massif Central provides
National Park, miles off the coast of British event. The race exceeded all expectations the raw material for some wonderful
Columbia, is untouched by roads and and is to become a regular event. The features, including the photogenic rock
joint-run by the government and the tight, bumpy track, illuminated by over arch of Pont d’Arc. It’s the start of a series
Haida people. A kayaking expedition is the 3,000 lights, threads through the city of dramatic gorges, pockmarked with
ideal way to experience its thermal pools, streets past colonial buildings and a crowd stalactite-riddled caves and surrounded
fjords, and traditional villages characterized delighted to see motor racing’s biggest by epic cliffs and thick forest that are best
by longhouses and totem poles. series taking place on their doorstep. seen from a kayak.
241
ELEPHANT POLO, NEPAL It started as an expat joke, but elephant polo makes for a ACROBAT DISPLAYS, BEIJING, CHINA DEEP SEA FISHING, CAPE TOWN,
serious spectacle. Meghauli, in the flat, agricultural western Terai, hosts the tournament Acrobatics in China go back to 500 BC, SOUTH AFRICA The waters off the coast
on its airstrip every December, with teams coming from Britain, India, Australia, Hong and Beijing has some of the best venues. of Cape Town, where the Atlantic and the
Kong and beyond. The pitch is slightly smaller than standard, due to the elephants’ Today, you can see high-wire acts, cycling, Indian Oceans meet, offer some of the best
slower pace, while two people ride each mount, a mahout directing the elephant and a juggling, conjuring, gymnastics and big-game fishing in the world. Hook
stick-wielding player hitting the ball. The action is surprisingly fast-paced and passionate, animal dances based on folk traditions – yellow-fin tuna, swordfish or, if you’re lucky,
with group stages preceding a knock-out contest. all in the same evening’s entertainment. a whopping 450-kg (1,000-lb) blue marlin.
CAMEL-TREKKING, MOROCCO Graceless DIVING AT NINGALOO, AUSTRALIA The hot, dry North West Cape might not seem
and hard to ride, camels are not natural Australia’s most alluring destination, but poke your head under the water and there’s all
mounts but they are the best way to travel in manner of life to see. Hundreds of species of coral and fish support a vast ecosystem,
the desert. On an organized trek, your camel topped by turtles, manta rays, sharks and whales, but while there are growing tourist
will follow ancient trade routes through facilities, Ningaloo Marine Park is far more low key than the Great Barrier Reef. Its
shifting sands to reach massive dunes and stunning, deserted beaches offer perfect chill-out opportunities, while Coral Bay is a
the vast empty spaces of the Sahara. dazzling playground for both casual snorkellers and experienced divers.
HIKING IN WYOMING, USA Yellowstone LAWN BOWLS, UK Despite its reputation ISLAND-TO-ISLAND SWIMMING, VOLCANO CLIMBING, GUATEMALA
and the Teton Range may be Wyoming’s for attracting Britain’s grey-haired elders, GREECE The Cyclades can be swamped With its fertile flood plains, rainforest,
main trekking areas, but if you want to get lawn bowls is a lot of fun for all ages. The with tourists in summer, but a swim tour buzzing cities and Pacific and Caribbean
away from the crowds, head for the state’s aim of this skilful game is to roll a black ball, will let you really immerse yourself in the coastlines, Guatemala is not short of
highest, longest and often most stunning or “bowl”, across a smooth grass lawn to hit Aegean – far away from the crowds. The attractions, but its epic chain of volcanoes
range. In the Wind River Mountains, hikers a small white ball, or “jack”. Sounds easy? tours take in uninhabited islands and takes top billing for most adventurous
can follow the scenic Glacier Trail or the Not so. The bowls are biased (weighted) on open water, and even involve treks up visitors. At 2,250 m (7,380 ft) Pacaya is the
lovely route from Lander to Valentine and one side and in the case of crown-green hills. Boats accompany groups on most classic climb, while Tajumulco, at 4,220 m
Washakie lakes. There are fishing and bowls, the lawn has a slightly convex trips, although you need to be a decent (13,845 ft), is the highest point in Central
geyser trips for the footsore. surface. Runaway balls are not uncommon. swimmer to sign up. America and has views to Mexico.
MARATHON DES SABLES, MOROCCO A DAY AT THE RACES, IRELAND With GOLF IN EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
The toughest foot race in the world is over its dressing up and reputation as a boozy Scotland may be the home of golf,
254 km (158 miles) long – more than five day out, it can be easy to forget that horse- but most visitors are totally unaware
times the length of a regular marathon. racing is a sport. In Ireland, Kildare is that they can play on a historic course
Competitors carry all their kit and run over home to the Curragh Racecourse, named a few minutes’ walk from Edinburgh’s
energy-sapping dunes; temperatures can after the grassy plain on which it sits. The centre. The Bruntsfield Links may have
edge over 50°C (122°F); and most runners track hosts many of Ireland’s greatest flat been used for the sport as early as the
take six days of pain to reach the finish line. races, including the Irish Derby in late 15th century, and are a lovely, relaxed
Incredibly, some athletes complete the June or early July, with its boisterous setting for a pitch and putt, overlooked
route in less than 24 hours. atmosphere and serious competition. by the craggy Arthur’s Seat.
art and culture
Pre-historic rock paintings depicting women, ostriches and cattle at Jebel Acacus, Libya (p254)
244
ART AND CULTURE
NEED TO KNOW studded crown of Empress Eugénie. But, let’s face The exquisite good taste of an art-adoring
it, 35,000 works of art can be downright daunting. 19th-century couple, Edouard André and Nélie
LOCATION Paris is 6/*5&%
“To My Only Desire” tapestry from the Lady and the Unicorn series
Wall of solar shutters on the Institut du Monde Arabe
Musée National
Institut du Elegant Winter Garden of the Musée Jacquemart-André
du Moyen Age
Monde Arabe Musée Jacquemart-
Amusingly, the most famous inhabitant of the
flamboyant ex-home of the Abbots of Cluny is Traditional Arab style meets high-tech here, in André
female – the captivating Lady and the Unicorn. the hundreds of solar-activated shutters which
Six 15th-century Flemish tapestry panels, full of cover the Institut’s southern façade. These lovely Banker Edouard André and his society painter wife,
charm and hidden symbolism, are housed in an geometric apertures, that open and close according Nélie Jacquemart, travelled the world amassing
impressive circular room here. Five of the elegant to the intensity of the light, were designed by their treasures. Their splendid 19th-century town-
images are believed to portray the senses – taste, celebrated French architect Jean Nouvel to echo house – which, when glimpsed from the sweeping
hearing, sight, smell, touch – while the meaning the intricate wooden balconies of Moorish palaces. Boulevard Haussmann, looks quite unremarkable
of the sixth, bearing the inscription “To my only Opened in 1987 with the aim of fostering exchange – positively drips with art and atmosphere. The
desire”, remains a mystery. Elsewhere, there are between Western and Arab cultures, the Institut library is hung with Dutch paintings, including
glorious 7th-century crowns; stained glass; armour; houses a library, cultural centre, exhibition spaces portraits by Rembrandt and Van Dyck, while the
Limoges enamels; a medieval waffle iron; travel and the “Museum of Arab Museums”. This displays superb upstairs “Italian Museum” boasts Uccello’s
chests; shoes; and textiles from Iran, the Byzantine several hundred items, many on long-term loan St George and the Dragon, Botticelli’s Virgin and
Empire, Italy and England. Stone heads of the Kings from Syria and Tunisia, that trace the history and Child, Mantegna’s Ecce Homo, and sculptures by
of Judah, ripped from the façade of Notre-Dame art of Arabic-Islamic civilization. There are terracotta Donatello and Della Robbia. The penetratingly pink
during the Revolution by angry crowds, are the urns; slabs from ancient Carthage; frescoes from the Venetian Room is crowned with a grand coffered
treasures of the sculpture section. These were Kairouan Mosque and stuccoes from the palace of ceiling by Murano-born Mocetto. Other rooms
discovered in 1977, along with a host of other Sabra al-Mansouriya, both in Tunisia; a mesmerizing house works by French artists Boucher, David,
damaged statues and fragments, in the basement array of gold astrolabes; costumes and jewellery; Chardin and Nattier, and the double spiral staircase
of a Parisian bank. Outdoors there’s a flourishing ancient manuscripts donated by Yemen; and a is presided over by Tiepolo frescoes depicting the
medieval physic garden, with a “unicorn forest” magical collection of carpets. Temporary exhibitions arrival of Henri III in Venice. The Smoking Room
and “carpet of 1,000 flowers”, as well as the ruins showcase Arab life and culture, and have included displays Nélie’s eclectic collection of curios picked
of the Thermes de Cluny (thermal baths), from the paintings of Algeria by 19th-century French up on her passages through India, Persia and the
2nd to 3rd centuries. The frigidarium (cold bath) artists; Napoleon Bonaparte’s travels in Egypt; British Isles, and the private apartments include
retains traces of remarkable mosaics, including Venice and its relationship with the Arab world; Edouard’s anteroom, housing his portrait painted
the delightfully named “Love Riding a Dolphin”. and Arabian horses and their riders. by his wife ten years before they were married.
MAIN IMAGE A vineyard in the Tupungato Valley with the Andes in the
distance, Mendoza BELOW (left to right) Vintage bottles in a winery
cellar, Mendoza; harvesting Malbec grapes
NEED TO KNOW their way up to 1,700 m (5,577 ft) above sea level.
They cross deep fertile valleys and high plains and
LOCATION Mendoza lies in the
foothills of the Andes in western
skirt around enormous vineyards that sweep for
Argentina, 710 km (440 miles) $ØSEPCB
miles across the picturesque foothills, boasting
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WINERIES 700
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daytime average of 28°C (82°F) intimate tastings with wine experts who speak
passionately about their produce. There is little
show here, only great wine. Stop at a high-end ABOVE Bunches of bluish grapes on the vine, Mendoza
Whatever happened to the romance and charm estate for an evening rooftop tasting. Watching
of Napa Valley? It’s an all-too-familiar lament, and the sun set behind the towering Andes as aromatic abundant varietals, but its most outstanding wine is
one with a simple answer: they’ve been put in premium varietals roll across your tongue is an a deep, rich red, made from the Malbec grape, which
the shade by Mendoza, Argentina’s premier wine- exquisite experience. Stay overnight at a luxury flourishes in the dry air and high altitude. Malbec
growing region. Likened to the pre-boom Napa wine spa before visiting a small bodega that has enthusiasts can attend gourmet lunches hosted by
Valley of the early 1980s, Mendoza is an emerging remained unchanged for a century, with cobbled winery owners who pair the wine with local cuisine,
destination of empty roads and fabulous, exotic courtyards that open directly onto the vineyard. or travel on horseback to vineyards where the grape
wines. And the vineyards here, set against a Here, sweating mules still plough between the thrives. The riding routes skirt herds of guanacos
splendid backdrop of the soaring, white-tipped vines, grapes are pressed by hand and ice-cold beneath the gaze of Andean condors gliding high in
Andes, are some of the most scenic in the world. run-off from the Andes irrigates the fertile land. the sky. Ahead, among a whirl of soaring rock faces,
Mendoza’s roads, many of which are prettily Mendoza’s wines have at last won the global is Aconcagua, the highest peak in the world outside
lined with poplars and sycamores, gently wind recognition they deserve. The region produces Asia. It’s a dizzyingly beautiful scene.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET NAPA VALLEY? Getting There and Around (kid goat), a local speciality, and
There are regular flights from accompany with a rich Malbec.
THE BUILD-UP Napa Valley, which is just an hour north of
Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires, Where to Stay
San Francisco by car, is renowned for its world-class wines. to Mendoza City. Shuttle buses Nestled at the foot of the Andes
Each year, hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts visit its 300 run from Mendoza’s airport to in its own vineyards, Cavas Wine
or so wineries by bicycle, luxury 4WD, hot-air balloon or the city centre. The region’s three Lodge (www.cavaswinelodge.
aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train. Rolling green hills main wine-growing areas – com) boasts luxury suites and
provide a picturesque backdrop to wine crawls in the area. Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco and a spa with wine-therapy
Maipú – are only a short drive treatments.
away. Tour agencies run tours of
THE LETDOWN Napa has sadly shed much of its original When to Go
varying lengths and provide
charm. Tours emphasize entertainment over wine and tastings itineraries should you wish to Visit during the harvest season
have a happy-hour feel, led by volunteers that are more like explore alone. from February to March, when
bartenders than wine experts. Highway 29, the region’s main visitors help with grape-picking
ABOVE A busy picnic spot at the V Sattui Winery, Where to Eat and take part in Vendimia, the
road, is bumper to bumper with cars during the high season. St Helena, Napa Valley, California Housed within the Escorihuela area’s lively wine-harvest festival.
Winery – one of Mendoza’s oldest
wineries – is the sumptuous Budget per Day for Two
GOING ANYWAY? Try to visit outside the peak season. Spring is a great time to go, when the weather is
Francis Mallman 1884 restaurant £270 including accommodation,
warm, there are fewer tourists and the winery owners are less busy. If you plan on travelling in the high
(www.escorihuela.com), which wine tours and dining out.
season, aim for a midweek stay and book early-morning tastings to avoid the crowds. Try the wineries on
serves classic Argentinian cuisine. Website
the Silverado Trail, a more scenic, less-travelled alternative to Highway 29.
Order a succulent steak or chivita www.welcomeargentina.com
250
ART AND CULTURE
FORGET
MT RUSHMORE?
THE BUILD-UP Mount Rushmore, which was
completed in 1941, is one of the most iconic
images in America. Whether or not its patent
nationalism appeals, the sheer scale of the
monument is impressive. So too is the story of
how 400 workers blasted and carved it out of a
granite ridge at a height of 1,745 m (5,725 ft).
You can’t help marvelling at such details as
George Washington’s nose or Theodore
Roosevelt’s moustache, as well as at the
beautiful scenery of the Black Hills.
Horse
words: “My lands are where my dead lie buried”.
Work on the sculpture started in 1948 when early to beat the crowds and catch the clear
morning light. Observe how the faces appear
Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear asked Korczak
to change with the movement of the sun.
vs Mt Rushmore
Ziolkowski, a Polish-American sculptor who had
worked on Mount Rushmore, to design a monument
honouring Native American people. Crazy Horse
The world’s largest sculpture in the making never allowed himself to be photographed, so
stands head and shoulders above Mt Rushmore rather than being an exact likeness, this sculpture
represents the spirit of Native America. The face,
NEED TO KNOW measuring 27 m (87 ft) high, was completed in
1998. Workers are now blocking out the horse’s
LOCATION The Crazy Horse
Memorial is in the Black Hills
head, and depending on what is happening on
$"/"%"
of South Dakota near Custer, 4FBUUMF the day you visit, you may be able to see and hear
about 65 km (40 miles) the explosive blasts used to shape the rock before
southwest of Rapid City $3";:)034&
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VISITORS PER 8BTIJOHUPO%$ rock at Mount Rushmore, USA
YEAR 1 million -PT"OHFMFT
of Crazy Horse will be 172 m (563 ft) high and
64"
DAYTIME 195 m (641 ft) long, dwarfing Mount Rushmore.
TEMPERATURES The enormous sculpture was unfinished
Jan: -6°C (22°F); Apr: 7°C (45°F);
Jul: 22°C (72°F); Oct: 9°C (48°F) .&9*$0 when Ziolkowski died in 1982, and his wife and
sons have continued his work. Ziolkowski refused
to accept government funds, believing it would PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Carved into a granite outcrop in South Dakota’s compromise the project’s cultural and educational
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Black Hills, Mount Rushmore is one of America’s mission, so this work-in-progress is entirely funded Flights go from major US cities The Victorian gabled Custer
most patriotic landmarks. Here, the 18-m (60-ft) by donations and admission fees. to Rapid City Regional Airport, Mansion Bed and Breakfast
faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, which is 65 km (40 miles) away (www.custermansionbb.com) has
Abraham Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt gaze from Crazy Horse. You will need charming rooms with four-poster
out across the Great Plains. Journey 25 km (17 miles) a car to drive to the monument. beds and serves hearty breakfasts.
Several car-rental companies When to Go
to the southwest, however, and you’ll see a newer, are located at the airport.
larger and equally impressive sculpture slowly Spring and autumn have the
Where to Eat most pleasant temperatures and
being carved out of another mountain. Diners, cafés and steakhouses in fewer crowds than the summer.
The monument depicts Native-American hero the area serve regional fare, such
Budget per Day for Two
Crazy Horse, the Lakota warrior who defeated as burgers, steaks and buffalo.
£135 including accommodation
General Custer at the 1876 Battle of the Little The Steak ‘n Ribs Place (www.
food, transport and admission.
steaknribsrestaurant.com) in
Bighorn, and is chiselled out of Thunderhead nearby Custer is set in a handsome Website
Mountain, a site considered sacred by some tribes. bank building dating from 1881. www.crazyhorsememorial.org
The figure sits astride a galloping horse and has an ABOVE Model showing what the finished monument will look like
251
ABOVE Detail of the sky in Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night, THE LETDOWN The temptation to view so
Kröller-Müller Museum many great works of art all together can be
irresistible. But how much can the brain absorb
at one viewing, especially when you’re vying for
viewing space with so many visitors? Nearly
Kröller- that a museum be built to house them. Her wish was
granted, and in 1938 the Kröller-Müller Museum
opened on the family estate at Hoge Veluwe.
2 million people visit the museum every year.
Tucked away in Libya’s remote southwestern England is not particularly known for its rock art, The Gobustan (or Qobustan) State Reserve has an
corner, the Jebel Acacus region (also known as so there was considerable excitement in 2003 estimated 6,000 petroglyphs, scattered amidst the
Tadrart Akakus, tadrart being the Berber word for when prehistoric paintings showing bison, birds rocky outcrops and caves that dot the desert
“mountain”) is home to one of the world’s greatest and an ibex were discovered at Creswell Crags, landscape southwest of Baku. Carvings include
collections of prehistoric art. There are thousands the only example of Ice Age rock art so far depictions of hunters, animals, battles and dancers,
of rock and cave paintings here in a wide range discovered in the country. Paintings apart, the as well as a famous image of a reed boat which
of styles, dating from 12000 BC to AD 100 and Crags offer a rich insight into life during the last led Norwegian ethnologist Thor Heyerdahl to
showing changing ways of life in the Sahara, Ice Age, between 50,000 and 10,000 years ago. suggest that Scandinavians might originally have
along with depictions of local flora and fauna. The caves here, carved by centuries of erosion come from this region. Gobustan is also known
The area’s fantastical desert scenery is another out of the flanks of a beautiful limestone gorge, for its belching cold mud volcanoes, and for
major attraction, with sweeping sand dunes, rock were used by hunters as a temporary camp during curious musical stones, which produce strange
arches, the stumps of eroded mountains and a their seasonal pursuit of herds of migrating sounds when struck with a smaller stone, often
labyrinth of twisting wadis (dry river valleys). mammoths, bison and reindeer. Creswell is one compared to the noise of a tambourine.
of the most northerly points they ever reached.
4 MORE GASTRONOMIC
HOTSPOTS TO RIVAL PARIS
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA Where there’s good wine,
there’s bound to be good food and, with 200 vineyards within
striking distance of the city, Cape Town has plenty of both.
ALEPPO, SYRIA The oldest continually inhabited city in the
world, Aleppo is also a gourmet capital, famed for its
barbecued meatballs with black cherries, and pastries
flavoured with orange blossom.
MONTREAL, CANADA A little slice of France in North
America, Montreal is devoted to good eating and has a
fabulous selection of eateries, from high-end restaurants to
homely bistros. The city’s markets are pretty vibrant, too.
MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA With its fresh food markets,
upscale restaurants, trendy cafés and cool bars, Melbourne is
hailed by many as the country’s culinary hub.
257
NEED TO KNOW As befits a modern European capital, Rome has An underground passageway then takes you to
its share of idiosyncratic museums, from one the Galleria Lapidaria, with its collection of
LOCATION The Capitoline
Museums sit atop the most .JMBO 7FOJDF dedicated to mental illness to another exploring epigraphs, and the Tabularium (the former records
sacred of ancient Rome’s seven the history of crime. But in truth these are only office), where the remains of the Temple of Veiovis
hills – the Capitoline Hill sideshows to the city’s unimaginably vast hoard of can be seen. Stairs lead back to the light, and at
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exhibited in a hundred or more public and greatest surprise – not an exhibit, but the best
TEMPERATURES 5ZSSIFOJBO semi-public palaces. The Vatican Museums attract view of the Roman Forum. From this height, much
4 FB
Jan: 10°C (50°F); Apr: the lion’s share of tourists to the city – more than of its confused archaeology falls neatly into place.
14°C (57°F); Jul: 26°C (79°F); *POJBO
4 FB
Oct: 19°C (66˚F)
1BMFSNP 4 million go there each year – leaving Rome’s other Returning to Michelangelo’s piazza, you pass
galleries in relative peace. The Capitoline Museums into the courtyard of the Palazzo dei Conservatori,
may not be quite so off the beaten track as the where you’re greeted by a jumble of fragments
A magnificent flight of steps (the Cordonata) leads Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica (see p260), but the from a colossal statue of Emperor Constantine. The
you up the gently rising Capitoline Hill. At the top number of visitors is never overwhelming. tour then heads upstairs to one of the museum’s
lies Michelangelo’s Piazza del Campidoglio, flanked The main entrance to the museums is in the most helpful exhibits – the story of Rome told in a
on one side by Palazzo Nuovo and on the other cool, white marble façade of the Palazzo Nuovo, on sequence of 16th- and 17th-century frescoes in
by Palazzo dei Conservatori. Together, the two the left of the Piazza del Campidoglio. Busts of the Hall of the Horatii and Curiatii. The picture
buildings form the main body of the Capitoline philosophers and statues of river gods lead you gallery is next and, after the acres of marble you’ve
Museums, home to exceptional collections of down the Hall of the Philosophers to an octagonal just seen, your eyes feast on the vivid reds of Titian’s
classical sculpture and paintings. The architecture of room, where Venus awaits you, modestly covering Baptism and Garofalo’s Annunciation. Also on show
the square is bold, geometric and harmonious. And her marbled nakedness. In the Hall of the Galatian, are Caravaggio’s St John the Baptist, Veronese’s Rape
with no traffic, it’s relatively quiet here. The Vatican the dying Gaul, proud yet bowed by the pain of of Europa and some fabulous portraits by Van Dyck.
Museums across the river seem aloof and inhuman defeat, evokes genuine pathos. In the Hall of The visit finishes on a high, with the famous
in scale by comparison. Doves, mosaics from Hadrian’s Villa are on show. equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
FORGET THE VATICAN
MUSEUMS? Getting There and Around Where to Stay
The nearest metro stop is The Inn At The Roman Forum
THE BUILD-UP The Vatican Museums not only have the two Colosseo, a 10-minute walk (www.theinnattheromanforum.
most beautiful rooms in the world (the Sistine Chapel and the away. Dozens of buses from com) has a quiet courtyard, a roof
Room of the Segnatura), their vast corridors also contain all the Rome’s main station, Termini, terrace and its own Roman crypt.
vanity, devotion and sheer financial clout of the greatest stop nearby. Get off at either the And, as the name suggests, it’s
collectors the world has ever known. The picture gallery houses Via dei Fori Imperiali or the Via right next to the forum.
del Plebiscito.
one of the best art collections in Rome. When to Go
Where to Eat Rome has a mild Mediterranean
THE LETDOWN The Vatican Museums can feel like purgatory. Swanky restaurants abound, but climate. May is the nicest month.
the real food of Rome is la cucina The period from December to
They are positively overwhelmed with visitors, and the usual
povera – the tripe, salt cod, beans February is the nearest the city
start to a visit here is an hour queuing in the hot Roman sun. and artichokes of the traditional has to a low season.
ABOVE Jostling for a better view, some of the 4.3 trattorias. The Asinocotto (www.
GOING ANYWAY? Book a group tour (www.myvaticantour. million visitors to the Vatican Museums each year Budget per Day for Two
asinocotto.com), just over the
com) and you’ll sail past the long lines. With a good guide, you’ll river in Trastevere, is a great Resist the shops and you could
also get a better handle on the collection in 3 hours than you example. Stuffed courgette get away with £200.
might in days of dazed wandering on your own. flowers and veal tongue are just Website
two of the dishes on offer. www.museicapitolini.org
260
ART AND CULTURE 6 MORE GREAT MUSEUMS IN ROME
Galleria Pamphilj
Galleria
Borghese Alongside the Windsors and the Gettys, the Doria
Pamphilj family has the best private art collection Nazionale
Cardinal Scipione Borghese had money, taste and, in the world, boasting works by most of the great
most importantly, a pope for an uncle. He started names of the Renaissance. This Roman dynasty d’Arte Antica
collecting paintings and sculptures for his villa in has been marrying, inheriting and buying its way
the (then) outskirts of Rome in 1605, and over the towards the collection since the 16th century. Split between two exquisite palazzi, the Galleria
course of a lifetime amassed a truly awe-inspiring On entering the museum, you’re immediately Nazionale d’Arte Antica has hundreds of enthralling
collection. His smartest move was hiring the transported far from the traffic on the Via del Corso. paintings and a few genuine masterpieces, yet it
young artist Bernini to work for him. His second The Poussin Room, filled with sensual landscapes, barely sees a soul from one day to the next. You
smartest was to kick off his collection by drops you into an entirely new world. And it gets might easily have a room full of Sienese Masters
confiscating a hundred wonderful canvases from better, with a ballroom the producer of a costume or a couple of Filippo Lippis to yourself. On the
Caravaggio’s teacher, the painter Cavalier d’Arpino. drama could only fantasize about, a chapel with a flip side, you might equally get Caravaggio’s
The Galleria Borghese has only 20 rooms, but family mummy and then, at the very heart of the spine-tinglingly ruthless decapitation of
there isn’t a single one that won’t make you gasp palace, the four gilded galleries that run round Holofernes – not a painting to see on your own.
in delighted recognition. You have to book a the light-filled courtyard. Velázquez’s portrait of Perhaps even more rewarding than the
2-hour slot in advance, but this makes the whole Pope Innocent X (a member of the family) is the paintings are the buildings themselves. Palazzo
experience much more civilized. On the ground star, the light splashing on his crimson sash against Barberini had Bernini, Borromini and Maderno as
floor there’s sculpture, including some of Bernini’s the lightless depths of the damask drapery its designers. Its epic centrepiece is the swirling,
finest statues. When you see the fingers of the god behind. Then there’s Titian’s Salomé, a girl far too angel-filled fresco by Pietro da Cortona in the main
Pluto pressed into the impossibly soft marble flesh virtuously beautiful to be carrying the head of St salon. It’s as masterfully outrageous as anything the
of Proserpina, you’ll understand what a sharp eye John the Baptist on a plate. Other treasures of the notoriously over-the-top Baroque era could muster.
for talent the cardinal had. On the first floor the collection include works by Raphael, Filippo Lippi, On the other side of the Tiber, Palazzo Corsini must
collection of paintings is so rich, so full of chocolate Caravaggio, Titian and a bewitching landscape be the most shamefully ignored beauty in Rome.
and cream, that an aesthetic tummy ache may with dancing figures by Claude Lorrain. The palace, standing next to the old Botanical
force you to leave before your 2 hours are up: Titian, If you can, visit the Galleria Doria Pamphilj Gardens, has works by Rubens, Van Dyck and
Raphael and six (count them, six!) Caravaggios. at dusk, just as the lights come on, and marvel Giordano, all waiting patiently while the ghosts of
as the light dances between the ornate glass the Corsini family drift through the quiet corridors.
chandeliers and the gilded mirrors.
Practical Information
Address Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5; tel. +39 06 32810; Practical Information
www.galleriaborghese.it Practical Information Address Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13. Palazzo Corsini,
Getting There The Galleria Borghese is on the eastern side of the Parco Villa Address Via Corso 305; tel. +39 06 679 7323; Via della Lungara 10; tel. +39 06 4201 0066; www.galleriaborghese.it
Borghese. The Spagna metro stop, on Line A, is at the other end of the www.doriapamphilj.it/ukhome.asp Getting There Palazzo Barberini is a few steps from the Barberini metro
park, 1.5 km (1 mile) away. Getting There The nearest metro stop is Colosseo, on Line B. The Via Corso stop, on Line B, while Palazzo Corsini is in northern Trastevere, a good walk
Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. Visits must be booked in is used by dozens of bus routes. from the San Pietro metro stop. It’s easier to take the 23, 28 or 65 bus there.
advance. You will be given a 2-hour slot. Opening Times 10am–5pm daily. Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun.
261
Museo Nazionale
Etruscan Museum, The Decumanus Maximus road at Ostia Antica
Romano
Villa Giulia Ostia Antica
If your experience of classical art is rows of
In the middle of Rome, there’s a park with a lake, anonymous and noseless marble busts, headless Although Ostia Antica is outside Rome, you can
a zoo, several Roman ruins, countless fountains torsos and incomprehensible labels, the Museo ride the metro to the ruined city and be sitting in
and two of the world’s finest museums – the Nazionale Romano will make a refreshing change the theatre in the time it takes to queue for the
Galleria Borghese and, in the Villa Giulia, the and reveal the vitality of so much Classical sculpture. Vatican Museums. Ostia Antica was Rome’s port
Etruscan Museum. There’s the proud Seleucid prince, more confident for 600 years and, after Herculaneum and Pompeii,
When the Romans were still scrabbling around in his bronze nakedness than the rest of us could it’s the best-preserved Roman town in Italy. You
in the mud up on their seven hills, their neighbours ever feel fully clothed, and a disconcerting bust of walk in on the Decumanus Maximus, passing the
to the north, the Etruscans, were already building Julius Caesar with his toga pulled over his head. Best warehouses, the baths (posh and not so posh)
aqueducts, paving roads and decorating their of all is the famous Olympian, every sinew tensely and the pub on the way to the theatre. All these
exquisite temples with Asian-style Medusas. Though balanced as he prepares to unleash his discus. sites can be readily recognized without a degree
their art was archaic and occasionally inscrutable, Upstairs, you’ll get a tingle of excitement in archaeology. Most impressive of all is the Forum
the laughing eyes of the Apollo of Veii or the easy when the guide unlocks a double door and takes of the Corporations, where 61 maritime offices
affection between the Bride and Groom in the you to the gallery on the top floor. Entire rooms are ranged around a great temple, each identified
2,500-year-old funerary sculpture evoke more from the Villa of Livia on the Palatine Hill have by its own descriptive mosaic. Further into the city
genuine warmth than a thousand Roman statues. been faithfully reconstructed. The mosaics and are more signs of how rich and poor rubbed
There are also distinctly unsettling works, like the frescos have been so vividly realized, it’s as if the along together. There’s the meat market, the
frieze depicting Tydeus gorging himself on the artist has only just finished work. latrines and a whole host of temples, including
brains of his rather shocked archenemy Melanippus. The collection in the Palazzo Massimo is the the 2nd-century remains of the city’s synagogue.
The very best works in this former papal villa best part of Rome’s Museo Nazionale Romano, If you can afford the time, take a cruise out to
are also the tiniest. The Etruscans were fabulous but your ticket will also get you into the nearby Ostia from the Marconi Bridge in Rome. If not, at
goldsmiths, and some of the jewellery from the Baths of Diocletian, which includes the Aula least try to hang on until dusk, when the sun
Castellani collection is amazing. There’s nothing Ottagona with its two bronze sculptures of great glances off the sea and bathes the umbrella pines
in the shops on the swish Via dei Condotti that beauty. Both museums are near Rome’s Termini and ancient buildings in a glorious warm glow.
can match this stuff. station, and would definitely top any list of good
ways to kill time before your train.
Practical Information
Practical Information Address Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica; tel. +39 06 5635 8099;
Address Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9; tel. +39 06 320 1951; Practical Information www.ostia-antica.org/visiting.htm
www.romaturismo.com Address Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa Peretti 1; tel. +39 06 328101; Getting There Take metro Line B to Piramide or EUR Magliana, then get
Getting There The Villa Giulia is at the northern end of the Parco Villa www.romaturismo.com the Ostia Lido train to Ostia Antica. You could also take a Battelli di Roma
Borghese, a pleasant 15-minute walk from the Flaminio metro stop, on Getting There The museum is 5 minutes’ walk from Rome’s principal train boat (www.battellidiroma.it) from the Marconi Bridge.
Line A. Alternatively, take the 19 or 3 tram. station, Termini. It’s also very close to the Repubblica metro stop, on Line A. Opening Times 8:30am–6pm Tue–Sat; 8:30am–noon Sun (8:30am–5pm
Opening Times 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. Opening Times 9am–7:45pm Tue–Sun. Mar and Oct; 8:30am–4pm Nov–Feb).
262
ART AND CULTURE
FORGET CANNES?
THE BUILD-UP There’s no denying that
Cannes is the world’s most important film
festival. Founded in 1946 as a small event on
France’s beautiful Côte d’Azur, it has grown to
become a glamorous 10-day celebration of
film, with everybody who’s anybody in the
vs Cannes Film Festival Cannes sometimes gets all too much to bear.
Brash and cynical, the marketing and fashionista
side of the festival can torpedo its claims to
Cannes is a duty for cineastes but, at San Sebastián, Spain’s premier film festival offers art. And the pressure of numbers is such that
getting into screenings – or even just securing
the movies, the stars and the high life – without the hype a table in a restaurant – is a major feat.
MAIN IMAGE Piazza della Signoria Gubbio during Festa dei Ceri
BELOW (left to right) Main square, Perugia; a fresco at Orvieto
Cathedral; a musical performance at Spoleto (see pp268–9)
265
NEED TO KNOW Flanked by Lazio, Tuscany and the Marche, this as Perugini, Spoletani and Assisiati. However, this
beautiful region has some of the finest landscapes parochialism hasn’t fostered a sense of inwardness
LOCATION Umbria is a
land-locked region in central
.JMBO in Italy. But, beyond its natural charms, Umbria also as it might elsewhere in Italy, but a fervent desire
7FOJDF
Italy, flanked by Lazio, has a hundred towns and villages blessed with to outdo one’s neighbours. This is manifested in
Tuscany and the Marche (FOPB
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outstanding works of art. Places like Trevi, Narni ragús (meat-based sauces) that change flavour
AREA 8,490 sq km and Montefalco, which anywhere else in Europe from one valley to the next and towns outbidding
(3,265 square miles) 5V TDB OZ "ESJBUJD
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would be mobbed like rock stars, are left largely each other to put on world-class music festivals.
TEMPERATURES 6.#3*" 4QPMFUP alone on their lofty hilltop perches. More dramatically, the evidence of this proud,
Jan: 8°C (46°F); Apr: 14°C Then there are the region’s heavy hitters, republican spirit lies before you in some of the
(52°F); Jul: 25°C (77°F); 3PNF
5ZSSIFOJBO
Oct: 16°C (60°F) 4 FB -B [J P prominent on the tourist itinerary. The frescoes in finest secular buildings in the world. The town halls
the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi paint vivid of Perugia, Gubbio, Todi and Città di Castello are
stories. The cathedral at Orvieto crowns a tufa crag, all signs in pink and grey stone of a spirit of
Umbria is well used to tourists. However, unlike its reflecting shafts of golden light across the valley. independence nurtured since the Dark Ages.
next-door neighbour Tuscany, it has not yet grown Pinturicchio and Perugino seduce with the silver- Mention Umbria to an Italian and they’ll say
weary of them. While Tuscany’s San Gimignano blue haze of their landscapes, framing Madonnas approvingly “You’ll eat well there”, a grudging mark
orders urgent measures to stop the hordes as beautiful as any in Florence, while Roman and of respect from this most parochial of nations. And
clogging its precious medieval streets, Umbria’s Etruscan remains watch proudly over the plains. you can be assured of a feast – from Castellucio’s
Gubbio enacts its centuries-old rhythms barely But what really distinguishes this region from tiny sweet lentils and hams from Norcia that melt
conscious of the tourists strolling wide-eyed in others in Italy is its spirit of “campanilismo”, the on your tongue, to wild boar hung for days, and
wonder through its equally ancient thoroughfares. idea of bearing allegiance to the church bells of simmered to tenderness in a rich Sagrantino wine.
If Italy really was a booted leg, then Umbria your mother town. The people of this region
would be somewhere around the calf muscle. scarcely regard themselves as Umbrians at all, but
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Getting There and Around must be one of the most
FORGET TUSCANY? Umbria has a small international captivating places to stay in Italy.
airport at Perugia, but you are When to Go
THE BUILD-UP Without Tuscany, there would have been no more likely to fly into Rome. The best times to visit are spring
Renaissance, fewer Merchant-Ivory movie adaptations and fewer There are fast trains from Rome and autumn. Although spring
places for your maiden aunt to go on holiday. Some of man’s to most of the major tourist
can be wet, the flowers in the
greatest artistic achievements are here, from Brunelleschi’s destinations. Italy’s principal
hills are truly spectacular.
Dome to Michelangelo’s David and it has magical landscapes motorway, the A1, runs along
Autumn is warm and dry, and
Umbria’s western border.
and stunning towns that look down from their rounded hilltops. the dinner table groans beneath
Where to Eat the newly arrived game, truffles
THE LETDOWN Unfortunately, someone forgot to keep quiet The more informal the better. and mushrooms. Assisi is
The Locanda del Cantiniere in particularly magical in
about Tuscany. Camera-wielding crowds ruthlessly tick off
Gubbio (tel. +39 075 927 5999) December during Christmas.
lists of endangered statues, leaning towers, famous frescoes is typical of a thousand excellent
and historic squares. Then there are the costs, which have Umbrian trattorie. Budget per Day for Two
sky-rocketed in the last 20 years. For £160, you can sleep
Where to Stay
comfortably, drink well and eat
ABOVE Snap-happy visitors surrounding the majestic With monks’ cells, a secluded
GOING ANYWAY? Thankfully, parts of Tuscany still remain sculpture of David in Santa valley and your very own like a king in Umbria, which is
unknown, from the mysterious lands of the Etruscans in the 12th-century frescoes, the around 40 per cent cheaper for a
southwest to the majestic marbled mountains above Lucca. But if it is San Gimignano or Pisa you want former monastery of San Pietro tourist than Tuscany.
to visit, then go in winter, when you can enjoy them without hordes of tourists spoiling your view. in Valle, near Terni (www. Website
sanpietroinvalle.com) www.english.regioneumbria.eu
266
ART AND CULTURE 6 MORE REGIONS WITH CULTURE TO RIVAL TUSCANY
Manicured cypress trees lining the banks of the lake in the charming
Festival di
event. No other music festival can compete with
the sheer scale of performances put on over the
eight weeks. World-class orchestras and soloists,
newly commissioned works, and pieces too
Spoleto
expensive to stage elsewhere are all performed in
one of the world’s most striking concert venues.
vs the Proms
the temperatures close to unbearable. The domed
hall’s acoustics flatter only the largest-scale works.
Then there are the Promenaders: rarely young and
rarely stylish, their greatest distinction may be their
At the Festival di Spoleto, the last note of each performance hangs in the air; status as the most civilized queuers in the world.
stepping out from the Proms, it fades fast back into the tuneless roar of London’s traffic GOING ANYWAY? Don’t even think about
driving. There are two underground stations
within 10 minutes’ walk, and several buses stop
NEED TO KNOW composers to share ideas in order to re-invigorate just outside. Seats for the most popular concerts
old classics and to find ways to perform innovative may sell out, but you can queue on the day for
LOCATION Spoleto is a large
medieval town in Umbria,
new works. Menotti scoured Italy for a suitable venue. standing tickets. If you plan to watch a lot of
7FOJDF
central Italy, 130 km (80 miles)
JMBO
He came upon Spoleto, a slumbering storehouse performances, think about a £190 season ticket.
north of Rome of Roman remains and medieval buildings which
* 5" - :
WHEN Late June/early July was already blessed with several theatres and a
NUMBER OF VISITORS 410-&50
20,000 spectators attend 3PNF
"ESJBUJD
4FB supportive mayor.
95 different performances /BQMFT The festival, dedicated to theatre, music and
5ZSSIFOJBO
DAYTIME 4 FB dance, grew to be one of Europe’s finest. In its
TEMPERATURE *POJBO early years, unknown artists including Rudolph
28°C (82°F) in July 1BMFSNP 4 FB
Nureyev and Margot Fonteyn danced here, and
Jacqueline du Pré and Jessye Norman gave
For 16 glorious days each summer, Spoleto debut performances.
transforms itself for a performing arts extravanganza: Each summer, Spoleto’s cafés fill with the
the town’s Roman theatre shakes off any dust and sounds of rehearsals and the cathedral square is
fills with the echoes of its orchestra; the medieval transformed into a stage You may rub shoulders
duomo (cathedral) becomes a backdrop for the again with your neighbour from last night’s Row B ABOVE A high-spirited audience waving flags at the Royal
Albert Hall on the Last Night of the Proms
finest operas; and the Teatro Nuovo polishes its during the evening passeggiata or see a young
exquisite 19th-century boxes. ballerina bounding up Via Apollinare for her rehearsal
In contrast, at London’s Royal Albert Hall, BBC at the Roman theatre. It sure beats queuing on
technicians fiddle and fuss in front of the audience, Kensington Gore for tickets to the Proms.
intent on relaying the music to far-flung television
viewers. At the end of each performance, the
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
flushed crowds file out into a city that barely
pauses to take note of the extraordinary music Getting There and Around town. In Spoleto itself, the Hotel
pouring from its heart. Spoleto’s nearest airport is in Residenza d’Epoca Palazzo
In creating the Festival di Spoleto in 1957, the Perugia, 48 km (30 miles) to the Dragoni (www.palazzodragoni.
Italian composer Gian Carlo Menotti wanted to northwest, but most international it) is right in the middle of town.
airlines fly into Rome – a 1½- Its dining room has breathtaking
bring together the best young performers of the day, hour train ride away. There is an views over the medieval city.
and to encourage directors, choreographers and excellent network of buses in the
When to Go
Valle di Spoleto, and small shuttle
The Festival di Spoleto is a
buses operate between the train
station and the historic centre. 16-day event, starting on the
last weekend of June (or first
Where to Eat
week of July) and finishing in
There is a big emphasis on simple, mid-July. It’s well worth keeping
local ingredients in Umbrian
an eye on the official website for
cuisine and even the most basic
dates and venues.
dishes can vary from village to
village. One of Spoleto’s best Budget per Day for Two
restaurants is the Tempio del Gusto With inflated hotel prices and
(www.iltempiodelgusto.com). watching two shows a day, you
Where to Stay will need at least £300.
You will need to book very early, Website
ABOVE Cecilia Bartoli during her recital with pianist Jean Yves Thibaudet or consider staying outside of www.festivaldispoleto.com
at Teatro Caio Melisso, Festival di Spoleto
269
New York’s
Independent Galleries
vs MoMA
New York’s Museum of Modern Art is as famous as it’s massive, but for more eclectic offerings, browse
the city’s unique cutting-edge galleries, where progressive art is on show and often on sale
NEED TO KNOW collection features a great number of superstar Anything’s game – particularly in Brooklyn – from
paintings, from Picasso’s Les Demoiselles d’Avignon taxidermy in motel settings to marshmallow
LOCATION New York City
is in New York State on the $"/"%"
to Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night. It’s undoubtedly sculptures. That said, this being New York, plenty
east coast of the USA 4FBUUMF impressive. But if you’re looking for a more eclectic of the art could also well turn out to be a sound
POPULATION /&8:03, art experience, make for the city’s progressive art investment. As the saying goes: “If you can make
Around 8.3 million 4BO'SBODJTDP
galleries, both in Manhattan and further afield in it in New York, you can make it anywhere.” It’s
8BTIJOHUPO
%$
VISITORS PER YEAR
Around 40 million -PT"OHFMFT
64"
the city’s boroughs. not just artists who get their start here – artistic
DAYTIME
Before – long before – an artist has a shot movements do, too.
TEMPERATURES at showing at the Museum of Modern Art, it’s The home of contemporary art in New York
Jan: 0°C (32°F); Apr: 12°C (54°F); .&9*$0
likely they’ll exhibit in one of New York’s many has long been Chelsea, on Manhattan’s West Side,
Jul: 25°C (77°F); Oct: 14°C (57°F)
independent galleries or art spaces. And a tour though SoHo to the south features a number of
of these will give you the chance to check out big-name galleries wedged between its plush
MoMA – the name alone has become a synonym up-and-coming artists before they make a name shops. But the contemporary art scene is by
worldwide for modern art. In 2004, after an for themselves – to discover them as they’re nature migratory, and Brooklyn, with its high
ambitious building project, the Museum of discovering themselves, as it were. ceilings and low rents, has become the new artistic
Modern Art returned to its Manhattan home, For budding buyers on a budget, these frontier. A visit to the DUMBO Arts Center, for
reopening in a gleaming new space designed by galleries can be a boon, with potentially high-value instance, under the Manhattan Bridge, reveals a
Japanese architect Yoshio Taniguchi. The eye- pieces selling for low prices. But above all, they wealth of artist-friendly industrial structures and
catching building reveals spacious, sky-lit galleries make for a memorable visit. The art can be strange, warehouses, while nearby Williamsburg is
and an elegant sculpture garden. The museum’s sure. Bewildering? Probably. But boring? Rarely. crammed with galleries. For a unique take on
contemporary art in Manhattan, don’t miss the
glowing New Museum on the Bowery.
FORGET MoMA?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE BUILD-UP MoMA offers a double draw:
the world’s largest collection of modern art and Getting There and Around formidable literary and artistic
sculpture, along with a unique building that is a work New York City is served by three history, stay at the comfortable,
of contemporary art in itself. The collection major airports: JFK, LaGuardia Edwardian-style Algonquin Hotel
showcases most of the modern greats, from Matisse and Newark. You’ll find plenty of (www.algonquinhotel.com).
and Braque to Picasso and Klimt. Surrealist fans, take transport options within the city.
When to Go
note – Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory hangs here. Where to Eat Spring and early autumn usher
Food in New York is very varied, in the finest weather – sunny
THE LETDOWN Sadly, art loses some of its appeal
from high-end Italian and French yet breezy. For fewer crowds,
to fiery Latino, with plenty of all- aim for October and November.
when you have to elbow others out of the way to view
American burgers and hot dogs
it properly. And the relatively steep entrance fee can in between. Union Square Cafe Budget per Day for Two
be tough to justify for those on a budget. (www.unionsquarecafe.com), a The sky’s the limit, but if you stay
ABOVE Queuing to see one of the world’s most comprehensive favourite with New Yorkers, in a mid-range hotel, eat out
GOING ANYWAY? Avoid the crowds by visiting the collections of modern art at MoMA features Italian-influenced fare. once a day and take public
museum midweek or early in the day. You can get Where to Stay
transport and the occasional cab,
around the pricey entrance fee by going between 4 and 8pm on Fridays, when admission is free, though bear New York City features a wide £175–250 should be enough.
in mind that everyone else in the city will have exactly the same idea, so the place gets packed. array of accommodation. For a Website
Midtown hotel with a www.nycvisit.com
271
The New Museum on the Bowery, with its precariously stacked levels
Deitch Projects Dance performance at the Galapagos Art Space
ABOVE Works from the Ancient Art Collection at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Brussels, Belgium
RIGHT Vivid 14th-century frescoes by the Florentine artist Giotto in the Capella degli Scrovegni, Padua, Italy
MUSÉES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTS DE BELGIQUE, BRUSSELS, BELGIUM The poem GIOTTO FRESCOES, CAPELLA DEGLI SCROVEGNI, PADUA, ITALY Here in this chapel,
Musée des Beaux Arts, written by W H Auden after a visit to this gallery, is a hymn of praise Giotto, the shepherd-boy painter from Florence, produced his most complete series of
to old masters such as Hieronymus Bosch and Pieter Brueghel, famous for capturing daily frescoes. Painted between 1303 and 1305, its depictions of the life of Christ and the Virgin
life with wonderful realism. That was in 1938, when the museum occupied a former royal Mary are full of human warmth and a sense of calm; honesty is imbued in the simple
palace in the Belgian capital. Today the palace holds the Ancient Art Collection, while a figures, and the vivid colours have endured. The barrel-vaulted chapel holds the tomb of
new building houses work from the 18th century on, including a room devoted to local its patron, Enrico Scrovegni. He commissioned the work to atone for his userer father, whom
Surrealist René Magritte. The whole collection is one of the finest of its kind. the Renaissance poet, Dante Alighieri, had just confined to hell in The Divine Comedy.
GARMA FESTIVAL, NORTHERN TERRITORIES, AUSTRALIA Every August thousands VILLA MAJORELLE, MARRAKECH, MOROCCO Villa Majorelle demonstrates the
of Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal Australians are joined by foreign visitors in Garma in dramatic emotive effects of colour and design. With the sun radiating off piercing blue
Arnhem Land, home of the Yolngu tribe, for this five-day event in celebration of the walls, it is impossible to walk through the villa’s garden without feeling happy. The shade
country’s indigenous culture. Apart from the sale of art, and much revelling in music, of blue is even named bleu majorelle after Jacques Majorelle, the painter who designed
song and dance, the festival provides a forum for discussion and debate on Aboriginal and built the property in French colonial days. More recently it belonged to the French
issues. Staged on the remote Gove Peninsula overlooking the Gulf of Carpentaria, it’s a couturier Yves St Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bourgé, whose collection of North
memorable spot in which to contemplate Australia’s cultural heritage. African textiles is in the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech, housed in the main building.
THE BOATHOUSE, LAUGHARNE, UK BAUHAUS, DESSAU, GERMANY Walter DOMAINE DES COLLETTES, CANNES, ALBA INTERNATIONAL TRUFFLE FAIR,
Tucked into a cliff, looking out across a Gropius’s 1920s straight-lined Bauhaus FRANCE In the hills behind Cannes lies a PIEDMONT, ITALY In a region renowned
Welsh river estuary, the Boathouse is an Building, a powerhouse of art, design small farm where the Impressionist artist for its food, this is the gourmet highlight.
inspirational spot. Described as “sea and architecture, is an icon of classical Pierre-Auguste Renoir spent the last 11 Every October, food experts from all over
shaken on a breakneck of rocks” by Dylan modernism. While still actively involved years of his life. Setting up his easel in its the world descend on the hilltop town of
Thomas, who spent the last years of his in experimental design, research and lovely ancient olive grove, he painted Alba to indulge in local delicacies such as
life here, it is hard to imagine a better teaching, it also hosts exhibitions and right to the end, his brushes strapped to chocolate, nougat, cheese and wine. The
place for a writer in search of solitude. Up events. Nearby Bauhaus gems include his arthritic fingers. The original furniture prized white truffles are sold in a special
the road lies Laugharne, the town he the Masters’ Houses, the Törten Estate is preserved in the house together with tent, at astronomical prices – a single
fictionalized in his play Under Milk Wood. and the cool Kornhaus restaurant. sculptures, paintings and memorabilia. truffle once sold for 95,000 euros.
EPIDAVROS THEATRE, GREECE Take CÉSAR MANRIQUE FOUNDATION, THE PHOTOGRAPHERS’ GALLERY,
centre stage in this 15,000-seat theatre LANZAROTE In Lanzarote, it can be hard LONDON, UK At its launch in 1971, this
and clear your throat – and you will be to tell where nature ends and buildings was the first independent photographic
heard 50 rows back. The acoustics here begin. One man is responsible for this gallery in London. By 2008 it was drawing
are impeccable, and the setting, in the unusually sympathetic architecture, half a million visitors a year, and has moved
Peloponnese countryside, makes this the inspired by the island’s folds of flowing into a new, purpose-built six-storey
perfect Greek theatre. Watching a play lava and green, palm-filled valleys: César building due to be completed in 2011. It
here can still induce catharsis – the mental Manrique. His own home, built around mounts popular exhibitions, encourages
and emotional healing believed by Greeks five volcanic bubbles, is the best place to new talent and awards an International
to be achieved by watching a drama. appreciate his philosophy and his art. Photography Prize every year.
275
AMAZON THEATRE, MANAUS, BRAZIL One might well ask how this preposterously NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MALI, BAMAKO This is one of Africa’s finest archaeological
pink belle époque opera house came to be built in a port city in the middle of the South and ethnographic museums. Among several thousand cultural and art objects, perhaps
American rainforest. Step inside and you could be in any opera house in Europe: its the most interesting are the vast collections of photographs and musical instruments.
decorations and furniture hail from France, its marble from Italy, its porcelain and glass Mali is renowned worldwide for its music, and here you can find out all about its roots:
from Venice, and its cast-iron columns and banisters from Britain. The international effort field research has produced hour upon hour of recordings. The museum puts on regular
seems to have been worthwhile – more than a hundred years on, the venue is thriving, musical events as well as films and fashion shows, and plays host to the biennial African
with a varied repetoire of opera, dance, music and film. Photography Encounters exhibition of contemporary photographic work.
MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART, DOHA, AMBER ROOM, CATHERINE PALACE, BERLIN FILMMUSEUM, GERMANY This fantastic celebration of German cinema comprises
QATAR This elegant, understated ST PETERSBURG, RUSSIA A glitzy show four floors of cutting-edge design and effects in the Sony Centre on Potsdamer Platz. It
building, a late work by the American of wealth and craftsmanship, the Amber shows what towering figures and films emerged out of the industry, from silent movies
architect I M Pei, is set on an island in the Room comprises six tons of amber. Today’s such as Fritz Lang’s Metropolis and Marlene Dietrich’s Blue Angel, to Werner Herzog and
bay of Qatar. With a wonderful domed room is a reconstruction. The original, a other stars of the German New Wave. Many black-and-white greats were made in Berlin’s
atrium, it holds treasures from across the gift from Friedrich I of Prussia to Russia’s huge Filmpark Babelsber, the world’s oldest large-scale film studios. Once employed to
Islamic world, from Spain to India. Peter the Great, was looted in World War II. make Nazi propaganda films, they are now revitalized, back in use and open to visitors.
DALÍ THEATRE-MUSEUM, FIGUERES, GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, VENICE, CARPET MUSEUM, TEHRAN, IRAN
SPAIN Decorated with bread rolls, this ITALY For 30 years the wealthy American Persia is synonymous with carpets, and a
museum is no doubt the best place to art collector Peggy Guggenheim lived in visit to this museum helps to understand
see what the eccentric Spanish Surrealist the fabulous Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on their history, beauty and craftsmanship,
artist would himself have described as his Venice’s Grand Canal. A visit to the gallery and their place at the centre of Middle-
fantastic genius. Among trompe-l’oeil established here after her death is worth Eastern cultural life. The tradition goes
paintings and other visual jokes are a it as much for the opportunity to step back to 2,500 BC and continues to this
Cadillac with a raining interior and a sofa inside this intimate palace as to admire day. The building, designed in 1978 by
shaped like Mae West’s lips. Dalí himself, the 20th-century art she collected. The the then queen, Farah Diba Pahlavi,
ever the showman, is buried in the crypt. sculpture garden is especially delightful. resembles a carpet loom.
MUSEUM OF BAD ART, BOSTON, USA THREE CHOIRS FESTIVAL, UK Held TOULOUSE-LAUTREC MUSEUM, ALBI,
“It’s clear that many of these artists every summer for nearly 300 years, this is FRANCE The episcopal palace in Albi
suffered for their art,” says MOBA; “now it’s one of the world’s oldest classical choral offers an unlikely window onto the demi-
your turn.” With galleries in Somerville festivals. It rotates between three of monde of belle époque Paris. With a fine
and Dedham Square, this is a collection Britain’s great cathedrals, at Worcester, garden overlooking the Tarn river, this
of previously ignored or abandoned Hereford and Gloucester, with the host ancient palace-fortress houses the largest
artworks garnered from piles of garbage organist acting as musical director. The collection of works by Henri Toulouse-
and thrift stores. It pokes fun at the most week-long event is a choral extravaganza Lautrec, who grew up in the town. It has
pompous aspects of the art world, of chamber music, opera, organ recitals, his famous Moulin Rouge posters as well
leaving you wondering: what is art for? theatre, talks and exhibitions. as works by his contemporaries.
276
ART AND CULTURE
ABOVE Floral tributes decorating the statue of a saint in one of the shrines at Las Pozas, Xilitla, Mexico
RIGHT Keats-Shelley House, remembering England’s great Romantic poets, Rome, Italy
LAS POZAS, XILITLA, MEXICO Rich, English, eccentric and friend of the Surrealists, KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE, ROME, ITALY There are few figures in English poetry more
Edward James sold his great collection of art to put his own taste to the test in his very romantic than John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley, and no more romantic a spot in which
own Garden of Eden. It was no small task. The garden is situated deep in the jungle, up to contemplate their lives than this house by the Spanish Steps. For years the haunt of
in the mountains 7 hours north of Mexico City. Here, in the company of a menagerie of England’s Romantic poets, it is filled with paintings and memorabilia in homage to them.
pets and wild animals, he spent more than 20 years nurturing exotic plants and creating Keats came here suffering from tuberculosis and this is where he died, aged 25, in 1821.
houses, trails, bridges and dozens of ambitious concrete follies. Many display a Surrealist A year later his friend Shelley, 29, drowned while sailing off the Italian coast. The
twist, such as the House on Three Floors Which Will in Fact Have Five or Four or Six. awareness of their deaths, so close together in time and place, only adds to the romance.
WINE FESTIVAL, BURGUNDY, FRANCE STRATFORD SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL, MIHO MUSEUM, SHIGARAKI, JAPAN PERGAMONMUSEUM, BERLIN,
The monks of Burgundy were masters of ONTARIO, CANADA Between April and Visiting this museum, designed by I M Pei GERMANY One of the finest collections
viniculture, and the feast of St Vincent (22 November each year around 12 plays are for textile heiress Mihoko Koyama, is like of ancient archaeological artifacts in the
Jan) celebrates its grape-fuelled heritage. staged in repertory in the city’s four a trip to Alice’s Wonderland. A peach- world, this imposing museum houses a
Each year, a different village defies the theatres. Shakespeare takes centre stage, tree-lined path dives into a steel tunnel wealth of Roman and Greek finds as well
winter with processions and tastings but the programme also covers a variety and over a bridge to a part-subterranean as treasures of the Near East such as the
amid paper-flower-decked streets. of classical and contemporary drama. space full of Western and Asian antiquities. Pergamon Altar, to which it owes its name.
ANDERSON VALLEY VINEYARDS, BIBLIOTHECA ALEXANDRINA, ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT The new Alexandria Library,
CALIFORNIA, USA North of San inaugurated in 2003, has set itself a challenging task: it aims to live up to the example set
Francisco, this bucolic, rolling valley is a by its predecessor, the Ancient Library of Alexandria, widely recognized as the greatest
tranquil enclave attracting artists and library of classical times. Built on the harbour near what is thought to have been the site
craftsmen, where grapes have nothing to of the old library, the building itself is quite breathtaking. A giant glass disc, tilted towards
do all day but ripen in the sun. Encircled the sea, it is a stunning complex in three parts: a conference centre, a planetarium and
by protective mountains, it’s an idyllic the new library itself, connected by a plaza. Outside, carved into its shield-like, curved
spot to spend a few days acquainting granite walls, are letters in more than a hundred different scripts, intended to invite
yourself with the region’s two dozen understanding between all cultures and nationalities. Inside, arranged over 11 cascading
wineries, and dining out in civilized style. levels, there are reading rooms and enough shelf space to stack eight million tomes.
CARL HAMMER GALLERY, CHICAGO, LA CHASCONA, SANTIAGO, CHILE DENNIS SEVERS’ HOUSE, LONDON, UK
USA To catch who’s new and what’s hot, La Chascona (“the uncombed”) is the This cluttered, candlelit house, which
visit this gallery on North Wells Street. epitome of a poet’s home, full of art and belonged to the fictional Jervis family of
Carl Hammer specializes in “Outsider Art”, optimism. It was built by Pablo Neruda Huguenot silk weavers, is a model of
aiming to give a break to untrained – and on a hill by a stream, after he discovered what it was like to live in the East End of
unknown – artists. Much of the work he the spot with his lover, Matilde Urrutia. The London in the early 18th century. With a
promotes is “social art”, the art of the place grew organically, and its fascinating fire in the grate, and a half-eaten meal on
underdog, but he also puts on regular complex of whimsical rooms is filled the table, it is a theatrical time capsule of
shows of known artists. Exhibitions with art and found objects, including ten panelled rooms, brilliantly re-created
change every month. a portrait of Urrutia by Diego Rivera. by the late American artist Dennis Severs.
277
SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM, LONDON, UK One of joys of the Sir John Soane’s FONDATION MARGUERITE ET AIMÉ MAEGHT, ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE, FRANCE This
Museum (see p283) is watching visitors’ faces as they enter each room. Their eyes widen, privately run gallery is the best place to get a feel for post-war art in the south of France.
their jaws drop, and they invariably smile at the discovery of such a cornucopia of treasures. Set in the countryside above the Riviera, the real star is the building. Designed by Catalan
On the outside, this straight-laced Georgian terraced building gives no hint of what is in architect Josep Lluís Sert, the single-storey gallery is set around a courtyard peopled by
store. Sir John Soane was one of the founders of the British Museum, and his London Alberto Giacometti sculptures, and crowned with rooftop arrangements like nuns’ cowls,
home is like Dr Who’s Tardis – it seems to contain more art and antiquities than such a which help to suffuse the rooms with light. Artworks are skilfully integrated into the
house could possibly hold, much of it in specially made cabinets and display cases. building and gardens, including a labyrinth by Joan Miró and mosaics by Marc Chagall.
CENTRE BELGE DE LA BANDE DESSINÉE, GIARDINO DEI TAROCCHI, STUDIO MUSEUM, HARLEM, NEW
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM Inspired by Belgium’s GARAVICCHIO, ITALY The cartoon-like YORK, USA Dating from 1968, this was
favourite character, Tintin, this museum holds figures populating this garden are a joyful the country’s first museum to chart black
tens of thousands of comic books. From the flight of fancy, each based on tarot cards. America’s contribution to the arts. Today
first feature-film cartoons to the latest Made of ceramics, mosaic and glass, they it showcases contemporary African-
digital masterpieces, it shows how strips were assembled by French artist Niki de American artists, and its artist-in-residence
are made, and the people who made them. Saint Phalle over the last 20 years of her life. programme has launched many careers.
THE STATE MUSEUM OF V V MAYAKOVSKY, MOSCOW, RUSSIA A visit to this CHARLES HOSMER MORSE MUSEUM FADO MUSEUM, LISBON, PORTUGAL
museum helps to recall that the Russian Revolution was not just an overthrow of the OF AMERICAN ART, FLORIDA, USA Best heard live in the tiny bars of Lisbon’s
political order, but a revolution in the arts, too. Here in this building lived the Russian Founded by the granddaughter of Chicago Alfama district, the haunting music of
Futurist poet and artist Vladimir Mayakovsky; one room has been furnished to look as it industrialist Charles Hosmer Morse, this Portugal, Fado, evokes all the joy and
would have done when he moved in. His poetry, plays, film scripts and poster art gave a has the largest collection of work by tragedy of human experience. Alfama is
strident voice to the Revolution. Today the space is an inspired blend of crazy angles and Louis Comfort Tiffany, and represents the also home to this intriguing museum,
colours, of photographs, manuscripts, art and memorabilia – the whole thing has been high point of America’s Arts and Crafts where you can follow the development
described as being like the inside of his brain. As for many, however, the Revolution movement. Exhibits range from familiar of the style, see the Portuguese guitar
under Stalin turned sour, and Mayakovsky became increasingly disillusioned, which may lamps and stained glass to paintings, and other instruments, and listen to
have contributed to his suicide here in 1930. pottery, jewellery and a glittering chapel. recordings of Fado’s great performers.
PRECITA EYES MURAL ARTS CENTER, CAVE OF THE SWIMMERS, WADI SORA, ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM MALAYSIA
SAN FRANCISCO, USA The streets of EGYPT To the members of an expedition (IAMM), KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA
the Bay Area are striking for their murals. that stumbled on this cave in the 1930s, This modern museum in Kuala Lumpur’s
Many of these originated from the Mission the black silhouetted figures painted on leafy Lake Gardens is one of the best
District’s Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center, a the rock walls appeared to be floating, places to explore aspects of Muslim
community organization that runs art suggesting swimmers. Nearby caves show culture shared between India, China and
classes and plans projects to beautify the white cattle and tethered calves, giraffes, Southeast Asia. Two extensive floors hold
neighbourhood. In a strange twist for archers and women in skirts, hinting at a permanent exhibition of jewellery, coins,
street art, murals can only be reproduced other aspects of the lives of their early armour, metalwork, ceramics, textiles and
with permission from the artist. inhabitants, dating from around 8000 BC. manuscripts, as well as a large library.
The magnificent skyline of Sana’a, Yemen, bathed in afternoon sunlight (p299)
cities
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CITIES
FORGET AMSTERDAM?
THE BUILD-UP Dubbed the “Venice of the
North”, Amsterdam is world-renowned for its
CITIES
MAIN IMAGE A canal with the towers of Delft’s Oostpoort (East Gate) in the
background BELOW (left to right) Classic blue-and-white Delftware; the spire of
Nieuwe Kerk; Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) by Delft-born artist Johannes Vermeer
3 MORE LOWCOUNTRY
CITIES TO RIVAL AMSTERDAM
GHENT, BELGIUM The quaint cobbled streets, winding canals
and grand buildings hark back to an affluent medieval era
when, as a thriving textile centre, Ghent was Europe’s largest
city outside Paris. Today, it offers visitors a pleasing mix of past
and present, with waterways lit by fairy-lights, gilded guild-
houses and street stalls of trinkets and hippy kitsch.
ANTWERP, BELGIUM Like Delft, Antwerp has a pottery tradition,
but it fuses its enthusiasm for tin-glazed tiles with an abundance
of urban grit. This down-to-earth city, which has a rich mercantile
and cultural past, is undergoing a spirited regeneration, seen in
its trend-setting architecture and lively restaurant and pub scene.
THE HAGUE (DEN HAAG), THE NETHERLANDS The third-
largest city in Holland boasts a buzzing energy like never before.
Characterized by medieval cobbled streets, The Hague boasts
handsome 18th-century mansions, paved courtyards, opulent
palaces and an eye-popping collection of clock towers and spires.
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Less-Explored
CITIES
London
Much more than just Big Ben and Buckingham Palace, London is Western Europe’s largest
and most vibrant city, a multi-ethnic melée, cultural hothouse and bastion of the new ABOVE Big Ben and a red sightseeing bus
CITIES
ABOVE The handsome cream façade of the Sir John Soane’s Museum
LEFT “The Gherkin” – Norman Foster’s 2003 architectural showpiece
Small Museums
London has enough museums – over 300 and
counting – to exhaust even the most ardent
culture-vulture. The city is home to some of the
world’s greatest collections, including the British
Museum, the V&A and the Natural History
Museum, to name just three. If the sheer scale of
the major museums (and the density of the crowds
thronging them) seems daunting, however, then
there are plenty of more intimate establishments
to explore, covering smaller slices of local or
cultural history, such as the absorbing Geffrye
Museum, which showcases changing fashions and
lifestyles through a series of period interiors dating
from 1600 to the present day.
Other museums have been dedicated to – or
created by – famous individuals, lending them a
sense of personality, and sometimes a decided
quirkiness, which is generally missing from the
larger public collections. Notable examples include
the Freud Museum, occupying the rambling
Hampstead house where the great Viennese
psychoanalyst spent his final years and which has
been preserved largely as Freud left it, complete
with his book-lined study and original consulting
couch. Or the equally enjoyable, if slightly less
reverent, Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221b Baker
Street, which lovingly recreates the home of the
celebrated fictional detective, and features Holmes’s
violin, magnifying glass and chemical apparatus.
Then there’s the unique Sir John Soane’s Museum
in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, an elegant old Georgian
townhouse once owned by Sir John Soane, one of
the foremost architects of his era, who filled it with
an extraordinary array of artworks and antiquities
collected from around the world, piled up around
the atmospheric old house in a picturesque jumble.
Practical Information
Freud Museum 20 Maresfield Gardens, Hampstead; tel. +44 20 7435 2002;
www.freud.org.uk
Geffrye Museum Kingsland Road, Shoreditch; tel. +44 20 7739 9893; www.
geffrye-museum.org.uk
Sherlock Holmes Museum 221b Baker Street, Marylebone; tel. +44 20 7935
8866; www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk
Sir John Soane’s Museum 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, Holborn;
tel. +44 20 7405 2107; www.soane.org
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CITIES
CITIES
Ornate gateway on Gerrard Street, Chinatown
World Food
As befits the former capital of the world’s
largest empire, London’s food scene has an
overwhelmingly cosmopolitan slant, the legacy of
the waves of immigrants who have settled in the
city over the past century. Right in the middle of
the West End lies Chinatown, one of London’s most
popular dining destinations. Although the area has
a reputation for lame Anglo-Cantonese food and
notoriously rude service, this notion has now been
partly dispelled by a new generation of restaurants,
such as the Baozi Inn, which specializes in Beijing-
TOP Culinary delights in Borough Market ABOVE Browsing a stall at Camden Market BELOW Fresh flowers at Columbia Market and Sichuan-style street food, and fragrantly spiced
handmade noodles – all at bargain prices.
The most famous ethnic area is the Bengali
Markets enclave of Brick Lane, just east of the City of London,
the capital’s financial hub. The district is home to
Markets are an enduring element of London street innumerable curry houses, though you’ll find better
life, and the sound of local stallholders hawking Indian food in Southall, in the far west of London.
their wares in piercing Cockney accents is a Madhu’s, famous for its unusual Kenyan-influenced
distinctive feature of the city’s soundtrack. Old- cooking, is a good bet. For all things Turkish and
fashioned markets abound, such as the archetypal Greek, head northeast to Stoke Newington and
Walthamstow Market, the longest outdoor market Haringey. They boast almost as much ethnic colour
in Europe, and the colourful Columbia Road Flower as Brick Lane, but with none of the tourists, along
Market, where endless lines of potted plants add a with an outstanding selection of places to eat, such
horticultural flourish to inner-city Shoreditch. as the popular 19 Numara Bos Cirrik, which has built
Some of the the city’s old fish, fruit, vegetable up a cult following for its superb mezes and grills.
and meat markets have been transformed into must- Most of the city’s Arab community lives in the
do shopping experiences. While Greenwich Market area to the west of the city centre, particularly in
has become a major source of upmarket collectibles and around Queensway and Edgware Road where
including fine art, antiques and arts and crafts, the you’ll find an abundance of Lebanese eateries. The
most spectacular transformation is that of Borough classy Al Waha claims, with some justification, to
Market, where an elegantly restored Victorian dish up the juiciest shwarma in town.
wrought-iron market building hosts myriad stalls
serving up a fabulous array of gastronomic delights. Practical Information
Finally, Camden Market’s sprawling cornucopia Practical Information 19 Numara Bos Cirrik 34 Stoke Newington Road, Dalston;
of the weird, wonderful and downright tacky Borough Market Borough; www.boroughmarket.org.uk tel. + 44 20 7249 9111
ensures that it remains the market haunt of choice Camden Market Camden Town; www.camdenmarkets.org Al Waha Notting Hill; tel. + 44 20 7229 0806; www.alwaharestaurant.com
for the capital’s mohican-sporting punks, black- Columbia Road Flower Market Shoreditch; www.columbiaroad.info Baozi Inn 25 Newport Court, Chinatown; tel. + 44 20 7287 6877
frocked Goths, and other alternative fashionistas. Greenwich Market Greenwich; www.greenwichmarket.net Madhu’s Southall; tel. + 44 20 8574 1897; www.madhusonline.com
286
CITIES
FORGET CAIRO?
THE BUILD-UP Modern Cairo was founded
on the east bank of the River Nile in AD 969,
but the area boasts a history stretching back
to Pharaonic times, as evidenced by the iconic
Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, which watch
over its western outskirts. Often dubbed “the
city that never sleeps”, Cairo is Africa’s largest
metropolitan area. Attractions include the
mind-boggling riches of the Egyptian Museum,
the historic Coptic and Arabic quarters, the
Cairo Opera House and the football stadium.
CITIES
FORGET CUSCO?
THE BUILD-UP Cusco, the former capital
of the Inca, boasts a plethora of pre-colonial
and colonial-era sights, and is a jumping-off
point for trips to Machu Picchu and Lake
Titicaca. It’s small wonder this is the most-
visited city in Peru, and its enormous selection
of tours means that there’s something for
every type of visitor.
Potosí richest city in the New World for nearly two centuries,
thanks to its fabled Cerro Rico – the world’s largest
local culture. Here you’ll see more at your own
pace, without the crowds and the pressure to
buy yet another guided tour.
vs Cusco silver mine. Today, the mine’s once-prodigious output
is everywhere to be seen. It adorns ceilings and
walls in every other building, gleaming unexpectedly
With its colonial grandeur and air of mystery, from dimly lit corners. The brilliant metal covers the
Potosí has the edge on better-known Cusco altar in the Baroque Church of San Lorenzo,
dominates the collection at the Casa de Moneda
NEED TO KNOW (Royal Mint) and can be seen in no less than nine
museums and as many convents around the city.
LOCATION Potosí lies
on Bolivia’s chilly, windswept
More than 2,000 colonial buildings have been
southwest Altiplano 1&36
identified or preserved in Potosí, which is more
(Andean plateau) #3";*- than in any other Latin American city – it’s little
POPULATION -B1B[ #0-*7*" wonder this remarkable place became Bolivia’s first ABOVE Groups of holidaymakers taking a break on the
Around 150,000 4BOUB$SV[ historic Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru
VISITORS PER YEAR
0SVSP UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
4VDSF
About 7,500, most of whom
come for Carnival 10504¶
1"3"(6":
MAIN CITY SIGHTS
HEIGHT ABOVE SEA
$)*-& "3(&/5*/" Casa de Moneda Potosí’s first mint is now one of
LEVEL 4,070 m (13,350 ft)
Latin America’s finest museums. It boasts an art
gallery full of priceless viceregal paintings, a large PRACTICAL INFORMATION
There’s no shortage of people who have journeyed exhibition space with displays on everything from
to Cusco in Peru and other cities along South colonial coins to current smelting techniques, and Getting There and Around Where to Stay
Getting to Potosí is no hardship. Try the comfortable, centrally
America’s “gringo trail”, but very few have marvelled a larger-than-life mask of Bacchus in the courtyard The city is served by a high- located Hostal Colonial
at Potosí – a city that takes your breath away, and that must be seen to be believed. altitude airport, which boasts (tel. +591 622 4809). The
not only because of its high altitude. This majestic Convento y Museo de Santa Teresa This 1691 fantastic views. Many travellers friendly staff here have a
place is today home to the descendants of those wonder, which is the centre of all things Baroque in arrive via bus or 4WD from La well-deserved reputation for
who laboured for the Spanish centuries ago, and the city, does double duty as a museum and a Paz or Oruro, and enjoy equally assisting travellers of all stripes.
impressive views on the way. The When to Go
has a colonial legacy to rival that of any other convent – the nuns live next door. Here you’ll find city is easy to walk around and
Latin American city. Cusco, Lima and Mexico City some of the continent’s most impressive colonial Potosí can be chilly all year round,
taxis are plentiful and cheap.
but is most pleasant during the
might all have their charms, but they also have and religious artworks, and exhibits on convent life. Where to Eat summer months, from June to
plenty of drawbacks, not least their over-abundance Cerro Rico Words fail to describe this colossal The cuisine in Potosí is similar August, when it is dry and sunny.
of tourists. Much of Potosí is a peaceful treasure monument to avarice, the silver mine, which has to that found throughout the
Budget per Day for Two
trove of colonial architecture, art and antiques, been a graveyard to more than a million miners Andes, only it has more spice to
No more than £50. Much of the
it. There are myriad chicken- and
where the past lingers on in grand old buildings over the centuries. A tour is an absolute must. potato-based dishes on offer, city can be seen on foot, which
and on charming cobbled streets. Churches of San Francisco, San Lorenzo, San and warm soups are a traditional brings travel costs down. Prices
The city’s proud motto – “I am rich Potosí, Martín and the Jesuits These superb churches lie favourite. El Mesón, located on here are among the lowest of
the main square (tel. +591 622 anywhere on the continent.
treasure of the world, king of the mountains, envy near each other in the heart of the city, and are
3087), is an excellent restaurant Website
of kings” – coined by Charles I of Spain more than widely considered to rank among the world’s finest
and a great place to sample local www.boliviaweb.com/cities/
400 years ago, only hints at Potosí’s former glory. examples of colonial architecture. They also house dishes at affordable prices. potosi.htm
This was the world’s first boom town and the some outstanding pieces of religious art.
288
Less-Explored
CITIES
New York
Scratch the surface of the world’s most iconic city and you’ll find another side to this diverse,
culture-crammed metropolis – and understand why the slogan is “I ♥ New York” ABOVE Sightseers admiring the Statue of Liberty, New York
Around 40 million
downtown’s quirky shopping district, where you can each other. The Empire State Building and
)PVTUPO
DAYTIME find everything from hand-sewn, sequined skinny Statue of Liberty lead the pack, followed by the
TEMPERATURES .&9*$0 jeans to custom cuff links and (because you know splendid span of the Brooklyn Bridge. Then
Jan: 0°C (32°F); Apr: 12°C (54°F); you want one) Yankees caps along Canal Street at a there’s the unmissable Museum Mile, which
Jul: 25°C (77°F); Oct: 14°C (57°F)
fraction of the uptown cost. As for avant-garde art, runs along Central Park, where you can peruse
with such New York names as Warhol and Basquiat superb art collections and then take a breezy
Even for first-time visitors, New York will seem as for inspiration, emerging artists from around the stroll through the world’s best-known city park.
familiar as an old friend. It is, after all, one of the most world introduce their collections at the city’s
THE LETDOWN Two words: sweaty queues.
filmed, photographed and written-about cities in the galleries. And far from the chorus-line high kicks and
Visiting the city’s big-name sights – particularly
world, and its icons have achieved something of a feather headdresses of Broadway are the alternative
in the heat-blasted summer months – is a
superstar status. Wander the city, and celluloid theatres (or “off-off-Broadway”, as they’re called), with practice in patience. The queues at the Empire
images will flicker across your consciousness: Cary quirky shows from poetry slams to body-painting. State Building are notorious – you could spend
Grant waiting in vain for his love atop the Empire The television show Sex and the City trained a the better part of your afternoon on the hot
State Building in the 1957 classic An Affair to spotlight on the city’s flirty nightlife – where you can pavement. Another downer about the iconic
Remember; Audrey Hepburn strolling Fifth Avenue gaze at a sparkling view of Manhattan while sipping sights is that they’re, well, iconic: the hype, the
and gazing into Manhattan’s most famous jewellery a drink of the same name. But explore the city’s crowds and the fact that you’ve probably seen
store in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961); and Spiderman crooked backstreets and you’ll come across rumpled, them in photos and films ad nauseam can make
swooping towards the Brooklyn Bridge to save his centuries-old bars with uneven floors, scarred the real thing somewhat anti-climactic.
dangling leading lady in the 2002 Hollywood wooden furniture and ruddy-cheeked regulars
DOING IT ANYWAY? To avoid the wait at the
blockbuster of the same name. And Central Park? who’ll fill you in on other local haunts.
Empire State Building, buy your tickets online
This lush swath of green could practically apply for its
(www.esbnyc.com), or arrive when it opens at
own Actors’ Union card, having been the verdant 8 am, or in the early evening. In general, a prompt
backdrop for lovers smooching, strolling and ice- PRACTICAL INFORMATION
morning arrival helps greatly in bypassing the
skating, as well as plenty of chase scenes, in films crowds, particularly at popular museums such
Getting There and Around distance of Times Square and
from Annie Hall (1977) to Ghostbusters (1984). Even a New York is served by three major Grand Central Station. The Mayfair as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, MoMA
subway grating has received top billing – remember airports: JFK and LaGuardia (both (www.mayfairnewyork.com) and the Museum of Natural History.
Marilyn Monroe with her skirt flying up? in Queens), and Newark (in New boasts boutique comfort in the
Without doubt, New York lives up to its name, Jersey). To get from the airports thick of the Theater District. Head
but it’s when you go from the legendary to the to the city take the subway, a bus to SoHo for the 60 Thompson
(www.mta.org), a shuttle bus (www.60thompson.com), an
lesser known that the city really stirs to life. Roam (www.supershuttle.com) or a taxi. elegant, soothing antidote to
the vibrant ethnic neighbourhoods, from the the city’s accelerated pace.
Where to Eat
sizzling taquerías (taco stalls) of Spanish Harlem New York’s cuisine is marvellously When to Go
varied, from haute French to spicy Spring and early autumn usher in
Mexican. The Balthazar (www. the finest New York weather. But
balthazarny.com) serves up superb for fewer crowds, aim for October
French fare, with an infectious vibe. and November, after the summer,
For juicy burgers head to Corner
but before the December rush.
Bistro (tel. +1 212 242 9502)
and for Italian with a twist, fill up Budget per Day for Two
at Babbo (www.mariobatali.com), The sky’s the limit for what you
a popular restaurant with super- can spend in New York, but budget
chef Mario Batali at the helm. £175–250 for a mid-range hotel, a
Where to Stay meal out and the occasional taxi.
The Pod (www.thepodhotel.com) Website
has simple rooms within strolling www.nycvisit.com
ABOVE Central Park on a summer’s day with skyscrapers in the distance
289
CITIES
ABOVE Accessories on display at the funky Kirna Zabete
LEFT Stylishly dressed mannequin in the Betsey Johnson window
Unique
Boutiques
For fashion with a twist, stroll the streets of SoHo,
NoHo and NoLita, where you’ll find such whimsical
clothing shops as Kirna Zabete, which features the
work of home-grown designers and one-of-a-kind
threads and accessories, from graffiti silk twill
dresses to Flapper-style fringe scarves. Or pop in
to sleek boutique Roni, where you can pick up
unique yet affordable pieces including chic little
black dresses, colourful, silky cocktail dresses and
browse a great range of accessories. New York’s
popular gal-pal television show Sex and the City
could just as easily have been called Shoes and the
City, since the streets of New York are packed with
sassy shoe shops, many of which sell styles that
you won’t find anywhere else. Check out the
1960s-inspired sandals and stilettos by local
designers Sigerson and Morrison in their
eponymous SoHo shop. And don’t miss the sleek
boutiques of New York couturiers who have since
hit the big time, where you can often find one-off
pieces from their collections. The spiky-haired,
tattooed fashionista Betsey Johnson debuted her
playful dresses and heels in her SoHo shop, and
that’s still the best spot to check out her latest
offerings. Brooklyn-born Kenneth Cole, one of the
leading designers to bring AIDS “awearness” to the
fashion community, also has eye-catching
downtown digs. His collection reveals an urban
sensibility that pays homage to New York,
including thick-soled shoes that can withstand the
city’s rugged streets, and weird and wonderful
accessories inspired by skyscrapers.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Betsey Johnson 138 Wooster Street, SoHo; tel. +1 212 995 5048;
www.betseyjohnson.com
Roni 119 Saint Marks Place, East Village; tel. +1 212 388 0038;
www.roninyc.com
Kenneth Cole 597 Broadway, SoHo; tel. +1 212 965 0283;
www.kennethcole.com
Kirna Zabete 96 Greene Street, SoHo; tel. +1 212 941 9656;
www.kirnazabete.com
Sigerson Morrison 28 Prince Street, SoHo; tel. +1 212 625 1641;
http://sigersonmorrison.com
290
CITIES
Music Venues
New York’s indie music legacy has included punk
rock icons the Ramones, the New York Dolls,
Talking Heads, Blondie and Sonic Youth. Many
innovative jazz and blues musicians, such as
freewheeling artist Ornette Coleman and
Thelonious Monk, also made their start here. New
York’s alternative music scene continues to flourish,
TOP New Yorker walking beneath cherry blossoms in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden ABOVE Late afternoon stroll in Cloves Lake Park, Staten Island Greenbelt and you can groove to creative tunes throughout
the city, from East Village haunts with cheap booze
novel. The ferry to Staten Island is one of the city’s and tiny corner stages to low-lit Harlem jazz joints.
Hidden Parks great deals, offering top-notch views of the Statue Check out local bands seven nights a week at the
of Liberty and the city skyline – for free. Upon lively Cakeshop in the Lower East Side. In the West
and Greenery arrival, make for the centre of the island, where Village, the cheery Cornelia Street Café showcases
you’ll find the Greenbelt, a lush nature reserve of local music of all stripes, from improvisational
New York reveals a surprising number of green verdant forest, streams and lakes. Staten Island also quartets to “po’jazz”, a blend of poetry and jazz.
spaces where you can wiggle your toes in the grass features a superlative: Todt Hill, the highest natural Tap your toes to jam sessions and Afro-Cuban
and forget that you’re in the concrete jungle. point in the five boroughs of New York (and also and Latin jazz at the intimate lounge Smoke in
Central Park is, of course, de rigueur on every New where the 1972 epic The Godfather was filmed). Trek Morningside Heights. The Brooklyn Academy of
York itinerary, but venture further afield and you’ll to the top and gaze out at the rolling greenery that Music (BAM) has long been at the forefront of
find quiet pockets of greenery that you might gives way to the sparkling Upper Bay. Standing contemporary music, dance and theatre. Tune in
share only with the chirping birds. here, you might just forget you’re in New York. to free live shows, from world music to modern
For a reminder that Manhattan is, in fact, an vocalists, at the BAMcafé at weekends. Indie music
island, head to its southern tip. Tucked behind the Practical Information fans might want to time a visit to New York for the
sun-speckled promenade lies the petite, peaceful Brooklyn Botanic Garden 1000 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn; subway: lines CMJ Music Marathon in October, one of New York’s
Robert F. Wagner, Jr. Park, with its gentle grassy 2 or 3 to Eastern Parkway/Brooklyn Museum, lines B or Q to Prospect Park or largest musical events.
slopes, pretty linden trees and sweeping views line 4 to Franklin Avenue; www.bbg.org
of the East River and the Statue of Liberty. For a Robert F. Wagner, Jr. Park Near Rector Place and the Esplanade in Battery Practical Information
romantic escape, roam the lush Brooklyn Botanic Park, on the southern tip of Manhattan; subway: lines 1, R or W to Rector BAM 30 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn; tel. +1 718 636 4100; www.bam.org
Garden, with their acres of fragrant foliage, from Street; www.bpcparks.com
Cakeshop 152 Ludlow Street, Lower East Side; tel. +1 212 253 0036;
orchids to honeysuckle. New York’s coastal areas Staten Island Greenbelt and Todt Hill Staten Island; public transport: take
www.cake-shop.com
the ferry or the 11X, 12X or 13X express buses to get from Manhattan to
have some splendid patches of greenery, including Cornelia Street Cafe 29 Cornelia Street, Greenwich Village; tel. +1 212 989
Staten Island; www.nycgovparks.org
Fire Island’s Sunken Forest, one of the few 9319; www.corneliastreetcafe.com
Sunken Forest On Fire Island, just to the south of Long Island; public
remaining maritime forests on the eastern transport: take the LIRR (Long Island Railroad) from Pennsylvania Station in CMJ Music Marathon www.cmj.com/marathon/
seaboard. Its mist-soaked gnarled trees look like Manhattan to Bay Shore, from where it’s a 15-minute walk or a short taxi Smoke 2751 Broadway, Morningside Heights; tel. +1 212 864 6662;
they’ve been plucked straight out of a Tolkien ride to the ferry (30 minutes to Fire Island); www.fireisland.com www.smokejazz.com
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CITIES
Chinatown chef hard at work
World Food
If America is a melting pot, then New York’s diversity
of cuisine is one of its finest manifestations. In the
foodie capital of the USA, it’s not so much a question
of finding a cuisine, as trying to choose between
them. The numbers say it all: over 180 nationalities
– and counting – live in New York. You could find
your way through the neighbourhoods by scent
alone, from the smoky tang of caramel-skinned
duck in Chinatown (Peking Duck House is one of
its best restaurants) to the chunky tomato sauces
that hark back to grandma’s kitchen in Naples, ladled
out at many of Little Italy’s trattorias. And of course,
TOP Exterior of the Bowery Poetry Club ABOVE Rapper Nas performing at the Bowery Poetry Club New York-style pizza is a city obsession and the
ultimate urban fuel, often wolfed down while on the
run – try the thin-crust slices at Lombardi’s. The city’s
Off-Broadway the progenitor of spoken word in New York, serves Jewish heritage introduced such favourites as bagels
up a nightly mix of memorable acts. The Bowery with cream cheese, which have become synonymous
Theatre and Poetry Club also presents an eclectic range of with New York cuisine. You’ll find old-world delis
performances, from poetry recitals to performance across town, particularly on the Lower East Side,
Performances art. For a sassy night out, come by for a “Badass where one of the best is Katz’s Delicatessen. And if
Burlesque” night. The club also puts on lively you’re in the mood for spicy food, try some fiery
From leotard-clad dancers writhing on stage to wine- events for the neighbourhood, including puppet salsa at the Mexican and Latin American taquerías
fuelled audience-participation nights to political performances and bingo nights hosted by a (taco stalls) of Spanish Harlem, or head to Koreatown
poetry slams, New York abounds with avant-garde popular local drag queen. Finally, for avant-garde – or K-town – for kimchi (a spicy vegetable dish) and
theatre and performances. Downtown is home to improvizational comedy, check out the Upright karaoke on and around West 32nd Street. Further
many of the off-off-Broadway theatres, including Citizens Brigade (UCB). Keep your eyes peeled: amid afield, munch on grape leaves and tangy feta at the
the Public Theater, which showcases emerging all the emerging comics, big names will occasionally lively Greek restaurant Agnanti in Astoria, Queens,
playwrights, and also hosts the splendid Shakespeare stop by, including Robin Williams and Tina Fey. and for a vodka-fuelled Russian feast, make your way
in Central Park event every summer. The student- to the restaurants of Brooklyn’s Brighton Beach,
thronged Astor Place is a breeding ground for where nothing’s done in moderation, from the velvet
Practical Information
independent theatres, including Under St. Marks, a paintings to the bubbling vats of beef stroganoff.
Bowery Poetry Club 308 Bowery, East Village; tel. +1 212 614 0505;
black-box-and-folding-chairs performance space. www.bowerypoetry.com
As its name suggests, the theatre space is under Practical Information
Nuyorican Poets Cafe 236 East Third Street, East Village; tel. +1 212 505
St Marks Place, a street that has long been known 8183; www.nuyorican.org Agnanti 19–06 Ditmars Boulevard, Astoria, Queens; tel. +1 718 545 4554;
for its incense and zany performance art. Public Theater 425 Lafayette Street, East Village; tel. +1 212 539 8500; www.agnantimeze.com
Poetry Slams (sometimes called spoken word) www.publictheater.org Katz’s Delicatessen 205 East Houston Street, Lower East Side; tel. +1 212
are recitals of free-form poems, rap and storytelling Under St. Marks 94 St Marks Place, East Village; tel. +1 212 868 4444; 254 2246; www.katzdeli.com
that are usually entertaining, unpredictable and http://horsetrade.info/ Lombardi’s 32 Spring Street, SoHo; tel. +1 212 941 7994; www.firstpizza.com
raucous, but never boring. The Nuyorican Poets Cafe, Upright Citizens Brigade 307 West 26th Street, Chelsea; tel. +1 212 366 Peking Duck House 28 Mott Street, Lower East Side; tel. +1 212 227 1810;
located in Alphabet City and generally heralded as 9176; www.ucbtheatre.com www.pekingduckhousenyc.com
292
CITIES
CITIES
FORGET KYOTO?
THE BUILD-UP Having served as the imperial
capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years,
Kyoto boasts a suitably impressive collection
of palaces, temples, shrines and gardens.
Geishas still trip through streets lined with
traditional inns and townhouses.
This period has left its mark in other ways, too. Sillan GOING ANYWAY? Its Zen gardens are among
Kyoto’s most appealing features. However, visitors
Gyeongju artisans were the envy of East Asia, and a glut of
golden treasure has been hauled from the earth
and displayed at the Gyeongju National Museum –
are often required to carry their footwear around
in a plastic bag, which somewhat spoils the
atmosphere. It may be worth booking a tour
vs Kyoto a sight not to be missed. Also scattered around the
city are some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful around one of the more illustrious imperial villas
instead, as these receive far fewer guests.
temples in the land – most notable are sumptuously
Japan’s ancient capital has been spoilt, but
painted Bulguksa, the martial arts centre of Golgulsa
the pride of Korea is still full of treasures and isolated Girimsa. Most visitors also take time to
check out Namsan, a mountain just south of the
NEED TO KNOW town that still yields archaeological discoveries on
a regular basis. It is best reached by bicycle and, on
LOCATION Gyeongju is 340 km
(210 miles) southeast of the
the way, you’ll be amazed at how quickly the city
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Korean capital, Seoul ,03&" gives way to farmland and bucolic landscapes –
VISITORS PER YEAR 4FBPG
+BQBO
unthinkable in Kyoto.
Over 4 million 4FPVM
&BTU4FB
Less-Explored
CITIES
Hong Kong
Hong Kong is a vibrant East-meets-West destination of world-class dining, shopping
and nightlife, but its appeal reaches far beyond the showpiece Victoria Harbour
ABOVE Parade at Disneyland Hong Kong
NEED TO KNOW Special Administrative Region of China” (historically FORGET THE HONG
LOCATION Hong Kong is made
known as “The Fragrant Harbour’” in Chinese) KONG TOURIST TRAIL?
up of a southern peninsula of $)*/" bounced back and, since 2004, has seen booming
China, plus a cluster of 236 islands visitor numbers, largely from mainland China. THE BUILD-UP Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour
POPULATION Hong Kong’s signature attractions span its is a stunning inlet of the South China Sea, and is
Over 7 million / F X 5F S S J U P S J F T
irregular topography. At sea level, riding the ageing awash with sights familiar even to those who
NUMBER OF VISITORS )0/(,0/( have never visited the city. On opposite banks
Over 28 million
green-and-white Star Ferry that chugs heroically
,PXMPPO
between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong are the high-rise districts of Kowloon and Hong
DAYTIME - B O UB V
)P O H ,P O H Kong Island. From Central (Hong Kong Island),
TEMPERATURES Jan: *TMBOE
*TMBOE Island remains a timeless pleasure. Crossing from
19°C (66°F); Apr: 25°C (77°F); the Peak Tram chugs up to Victoria Peak for
Kowloon, gaze up into the hills behind Cesar Pelli’s
Jul: 31°C (88°F); Oct: 28°C (82°F) 4 P V UI $I J O B 4 FB stunning panoramas across the harbour, city and
soaring Two IFC Tower, I M Pei’s angular Bank of hills beyond, while the Star Ferry has been a
China headquarters and Lord Foster’s meccano-like Hong Kong icon since the 1890s.
Hong Kong is a city that raises expectations. HSBC building. The futuristic Peak Tower atop
Travellers’ anecdotes frequently drop phrases Victoria Peak affords the city’s best vantage point. THE LETDOWN This is a high-octane city, and
like “cultural kaleidoscope”, “gateway to China”, Day and night, visitors throng the harbourside the urban pace is relentless. The huge influx of
“world-class hotels”, and “amazing dining culture”, malls, restaurants and bars. A nightly laser and light mainland Chinese tourists can result in long
while Hong Kong raised its own bar by rebranding show adds an extra dimension of colour and drama. weekend and high-season queues, especially at
itself as “Asia’s world city”. Even Chek Lap Kok Hong Kong is a renowned destination for diners Disneyland Hong Kong. Touts hawking tailored
airport, built on reclaimed land on Lantau Island, and, while locals choose the dim sum snacks and men’s suits are persistent on Nathan Road and
near the Star Ferry terminal. Hong Kong is also
is regularly rated the world’s best. double-boiled soups of Cantonese cuisine, the
a major corporate events and conference centre,
It is in the evening, sitting in a chic cocktail city’s food scene offers something for everyone,
and hotels can get booked up far in advance.
lounge overlooking Victoria Harbour, that Hong from a sumptuous array of mainland Chinese
Kong really delivers. The harbour view – flanked by dishes to pan-Asian and global fare. DOING IT ANYWAY? Travelling between
skyscrapers sculpted by leading global architects But there is much more to Hong Kong than its Kowloon and Central by taxi can be time-
and set against a backdrop of undulating hills – is well-trodden tourist routes and, by leaving behind consuming. A multi-purpose Octopus card
magnificent. The density of these vertical steel the delights of the harbour, you’ll discover the city’s (www.octopuscards.com), valid on the subway,
pinnacles explains why movie director Christopher culture, history and heritage, secluded spots and trams, trains, buses and even the ferry, is a speedy,
Nolan chose Hong Kong to represent Gotham City green spaces, and experience the real Hong Kong. more affordable way to get around Hong Kong.
in his Batman blockbuster The Dark Knight. When
night falls, Hong Kong is a mesmerizing vision, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
whether viewed in the flesh or on the silver screen.
In addition to its glamorous appeal, classy tourism Getting There and Around (www.bishopleihtl.com.hk) offers
marketing and openness to globalization, Hong Kong Hong Kong’s Chek Lap Kok mid-range rooms in Central’s
airport (www.hongkongairport. Mid-Levels district. Hong Kong’s
is remarkably resilient. When the territory was com) is located on Lantau Island. most quirky design-led hotel is
returned by the British to Chinese rule in 1997, Frequent Airport Express trains the Luxe Manor in Kowloon
concerns were raised about its future as a tourist run to Kowloon and Central (www.theluxemanor.com).
destination. Then the late 1990s Asian financial crisis Hong Kong Island in 24 mins. When to Go
and the 2003 SARS outbreak decimated its economy. Where to Eat Mar–Apr and Oct–Nov offer the
Yung Kee (www.yungkee.com. best climate. The long summer
On both occasions, the officially titled “Hong Kong
hk) serves unfussy Cantonese in between is very humid. Hotel
dim sum and a splendid roast accommodation is very hard to
goose. Bo Innovation (www. find during the week-long
boinnovation.com) offers more Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb) and
contemporary, deconstructed National Day (1 Oct) holidays.
Chinese cuisine, while two-
Michelin-starred French fare is Budget per Day for Two
the hallmark of L’Atelier de Joël Hong Kong is not a cheap
Robuchon (www.robuchon.hk). destination. Allow £175–250 for
Where to Stay
a mid-range hotel, meals and
The pride of Hong Kong is transport. Hotel rates rise
The Peninsula (www.peninsula. significantly at peak times.
com) on the waterfront of Website
Kowloon. Bishop Lei House www.discoverhongkong.com
ABOVE Peak Tower building at twilight
295
CITIES
ABOVE Dim sum dumplings on a Hong Kong street-food stall
LEFT Aerial view of the market stalls and crowds of shoppers in the
Temple Street night markets of Kowloon.
Tastes of Asia
It is said that Hong Kongers’ two passions are
shopping and food. The range of retailers may be
impressive, but the dining is even better. “Asia’s
World City” boasts a truly globalized food scene.
Cantonese dim sum is highly praised, but Hong
Kong also serves up sublime cooking from across
Asia. Exquisite hotel restaurants historically set the
standard, but fine independent restaurants can
now be found right across the city. At the other
end of the scale, so can market stalls offering some
of the most delicious – and cheap – street food.
The Mid-Levels district boasts an eclectic range
of dining choices, while the boho-chic culinary
styles of Star and Gough streets attract Central’s
smart set. In Kowloon, scores of reputable Cantonese
restaurants line the streets around Nathan Road.
For traditional Chinese food, the venerable Tai
Ping Koon, one of Hong Kong’s oldest restaurants,
dating from 1860, serves a much-appreciated
roasted pigeon. Upscale and expensive Japanese
restaurants abound, but for excellent-value sushi,
maki rolls and tempura, Sushi Mata is a popular
choice with in-the-know locals.
Across the water on Hong Kong Island, light
and fragrant Vietnamese dishes are served with
charming élan at Rice Paper in Causeway Bay. Non-
meat-eaters need not feel left out: Life Café in Mid-
Levels serves vegetarian, vegan and raw-food
breakfasts, lunches, and a dinner menu including
vegetable stir-fries and Indonesian gado-gado.
Practical Information
Life Café Shelley Street, Mid-Levels, Central; tel. +853 2810 9777;
www.lifecafe.com
Rice Paper 413–8, 4F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road,
Causeway Bay; tel. +853 2890 3975.
Sushi Mata 61–5 Chatham Street, Tsim Sha Tsui; tel. +853 2191 4787.
Tai Ping Koon Several branches; www.taipingkoon.com
296
CITIES
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Hong Kong tram making its way through Central after dark
Alternative
Evenings
Evenings in Hong Kong tend to revolve around
eating, drinking and conviviality – with some snaps
of the dazzling night-time skyline thrown in for
good measure. Yet after-dark Hong Kong affords
just as much diversity as during the day.
Floodlit horse-racing at the Happy Valley
Racecourse is a time-honoured night out for locals,
who take their racing and their betting extremely
seriously, and great fun for visitors. Located in an
TOP Star Ferry crossing Victoria Harbour ABOVE Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island BELOW Fish drying by the harbour on Cheung Chau Island urban bowl and surrounded by high-rise buildings,
the racecourse itself is a spectacular sight. Be sure
Boat Trips to study the form carefully before betting.
Visitors who prefer to play a sport rather than
watch one can fine-tune their golf swing into the
Hong Kong’s history is tied to the sea. Made up of night at the City Golf Club. Located close to Tsim
236 islands, it is surrounded and defined by water. Sha Tsui, the upper level of the two-storey driving
The urban centres of Kowloon and Central radiate range affords fine views over the harbour.
back from Victoria Harbour, and the tradition of Fast ferries, operating around the clock between
feng shui (literally, “wind and water”) decrees that Central and Macau, mean that a high-rolling
harmonious residences should face the sea. evening in Macau’s bars and glitzy super-casinos
So, naturally, the best way to discover Hong is relatively straightforward – provided you don’t
Kong’s hidden treasures is by boat. The most visible stake your return fare on the baccarat tables.
option is the Star Ferry, which runs between Kowloon For a romantic and nostalgic trip, the venerable
and Hong Kong Island, and also offers harbour tours Hong Kong Tram plies a meandering route between
and charter vessels for evening parties. For a more Causeway Bay and Western via the Central Business
upscale experience, the Agua Luna, an 80-year-old District and Downtown. Jump on and off en route
junk, has been restored in style, with scarlet sails, (there’s a stop roughly every 250 m/275 yards), or
for cocktails-and-canapés harbour parties. just sit and snuggle up as your wooden carriage
Lamma Island’s rising contours, lush vegetation trundles through the heart of Hong Kong.
and excellent seafood restaurants make for an Practical Information
alluring day-trip by boat. A scenic hike across Aqua Luna Several sailings daily between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui
Practical Information
from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan takes about (reservations essential); www.aqua.com.hk Causeway Bay–Western Tram www.hktramways.com
2 hours. From Sok Kwu Wan catch a 35-minute Cheung Chau Central Ferry Terminal, Pier 5, Central; www.nwff.com.hk City Golf Club 8 Wui Cheung Road, Kowloon; tel. + 852 2992 3333
ferry back to Central. Another getaway option is Lamma Island Ferry Central Ferry Terminal, Pier 4, Central; Happy Valley Racecourse Happy Valley, Hong Kong Island;
Cheung Chau, a picturesque island with beaches, www.nwff.com.hk www.happyvalleyracecourse.com
markets and great seafood. A ferry from the Central Star Ferry Star Ferry Pier, Kowloon Point, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Shun Tak Ferry Terminal, Lai Chi Kok, Kowloon;
Ferry Terminal takes 45–55 minutes. www.starferry.com.hk www.turbocat.com
298
CITIES
FORGET MARRAKECH?
THE BUILD-UP Ever since the budget airlines
started flying to Marrakech, the city has
CITIES
MAIN IMAGE Women shopping in a covered market, Fez, Morocco
BELOW (left to right) Vats of coloured dye at a tannery, Fez; mosaic-tiled
stairway in the Bou Inania Medersa
Less-Explored
CITIES
Venice
No one can fail to be impressed by magical Venice, but it is the backwaters of the city,
far from the tourist trails, where the real soul of the city lies undisturbed by crowds
CITIES
ABOVE A vaporetto on the Grand Canal, Santa Maria della Salute in the
background LEFT Colourful houses lined along the quiet canals of Burano
Boat Trips
Armed with a 24-hour ticket or a Venice Card boat
pass, you can take the weight off your feet and
explore the city and its surrounds on a vaporetto or
public ferry. Line 1 is the popular, all-stops service
for the Grand Canal, passing under brand-new
Constitution Bridge and the historic Rialto Bridge.
By nightfall, it becomes a divinely romantic cruise,
sliding past elegant palaces, their lights reflecting
on the surface of the canal. Of a different nature,
and much quieter, is Route 51/52, whose slimmer
motoscafo craft circle the entire city, taking in the
fascinating Arsenale and Castello districts.
A delightful day can be spent out on the
northern lagoon on a sturdier motonave ferry if you
take the LN line. After calling in at the islands of
Murano and Burano, the ferry runs on to Punta
Sabbioni. As it steams past the passages where the
lagoon connects with the Adriatic Sea, passengers
can witness the construction work under way for
the Mose Floodgate Project, intended to protect
Venice from the sea. Past monumental Forte di
Sant’Andrea, its cannons mounted at water level to
cripple enemy ships, the next stop is the city’s
beach resort, the Lido. Private lagoon trips with
specialist guides, including marine scientists, can
also be arranged through Context Travel.
It’s worth making the effort to travel on the car
ferry that shuttles between San Nicolò on the Lido
and the Tronchetto car park. Known to the
Venetians as the “ferry boat”, it transits via the broad
Giudecca Canal, the tall decks providing lovely
views, and the on-board bar great drinks.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
For ferry information www.actv.it
For the Venice Card www.hellovenezia.com
For boat trips on the northern lagoon www.contexttravel.com
302
CITIES
Smaller
Museums
A host of little-visited but interesting museums
and galleries are hidden around town, each with
curious exhibits that shed light on the story of this
magnificent city. On entering the Palazzo Querini
Stampalia Museum, you are transported back to
the 1700s for a glimpse of life in a Venetian palace
of that period. Beautifully furnished rooms are
decorated with rich fabrics, fine porcelain, famous
Murano glass and period paintings by illustrious
artists such as Longhi and Bellini.
The Naval History Museum (Museo Storico
Navale) near the Arsenale has displays of ancient
watercraft, which provide an excellent overview of
life and work in Venice prior to the arrival of motor-
powered boats. One highlight here is the replica of
the Bucintoro ceremonial barge that had pride of
place in the Sposalizio del Mare rituals symbolizing
Venice “marrying” the sea – the original was put to
the flames by Napoleon. Not to be missed is the
Pavilion of Boats (Padiglione delle Navi), with a
royal vessel complete with decorated oars and
TOP Piazza San Marco as seen from the Grand Canal ABOVE Basilica di San Marco and San Marco district seen from the Campanile naval craft employed during World War II.
On Murano, the dusty old bishops’ residence,
CITIES
Canal-side residences and vendors selling their wares on the
promenade, Riva degli Schiavoni, in Castello
MAIN IMAGE Elegant, colourful Rīga from above BELOW (left to right)
Latvians in costume at the Open-Air Ethnographic Museum; street café in
the heart of Rīga’s Old Town; House of Blackheads, Old Town
305
CITIES
FORGET PRAGUE?
THE BUILD-UP Prague needs no introduction.
Widely considered to be one of the most
beautiful cities in Europe, the Czech capital
Rīga
offers a fascinating blend of Bohemian,
Germanic and Jewish cultural influences and
serves as an enduring symbol of the rich and
cosmopolitan history of Central Europe. Its
captivating 18th-century streetscapes and
majestic medieval churches, synagogues and
A popular day trip from Prague, Český Krumlov Italians call the city “Bologna la rossa” (Bologna It seems natural to compare Bratislava with Prague:
is nestled scenically between two loops of the the red) and it is not hard to see why – many of from the end of World War I until the “Velvet
Vltava river and also boasts a very attractive its buildings are painted in reddish hues, from Divorce” of the Czech Republic and Slovakia in
medieval centre. The city’s main draw is a vivid red to terracotta, although the epithet is 1993, the two cities were yoked together as part
castle complex on a rocky outcrop above the also said to refer to the city’s left-leaning politics. of Czechoslovakia. But historically speaking,
river, which offers visitors guided tours to its The Old Town, which sits on the site of a Bratislava, which was once part of the Austro-
18th-century Baroque theatre. But there is more settlement dating from the 5th century BC, was Hungarian Empire, has more in common with
to the city than its castle, and even with the damaged during World War II, but still impresses Vienna or Budapest. Though the modern parts of
trappings of modern tourism, it’s a pleasure to with its medieval, Renaissance and Baroque the city will earn few devotees, the medieval Old
explore streets lined with medieval, Renaissance buildings. It is also home to one of the world’s Town is a treat. At its heart are two beautiful
and Baroque town houses. In the summer, oldest universities. Today, the city is best known pedestrianized squares, Františkánska námestie
tourists and locals alike take to the Vltava river to Italians for its food, which is quite something in and Hlavné námestie, with the distinctive Old
on kayaks, rafts and even inner tubes. a country famed for its gastronomy. Town Hall on the latter. The City Gallery of Bratislava,
which is housed in three of the city’s impressive
palaces and also in the rebuilt castle overlooking
Practical Information Practical Information
Getting There The easiest way to get to Český Krumlov is to take a bus Getting There Bologna’s airport is connected to many cities in Europe and
the city, holds more than 35,000 artworks.
from Prague. You can also take a train from Prague, but you’ll need to its train station has direct connections to other cities in Italy.
change at České Budějovice. If you’re coming from the south, it may be When to Go Spring is generally the best time to visit Bologna. Summers
best to take a train to Linz in Austria and from there, a shuttle bus. Practical Information
can be oppressively hot and many businesses close in August, while
Getting There The airport is 12 km (7 miles) from the city and is mainly
When to Go Visiting in summer means sharing the town with thousands of winters are usually very cold.
other visitors, but it also brings the best weather for rafting on the Vltava used by low-cost airlines. It is also easy to fly to Vienna’s Schwechat Airport
Website iat.comune.bologna.it and then make the 50-km (30-mile) transfer by bus. Regular ferries run
river. Winter is cold, but the city can look very attractive at this time.
along the Danube river between Bratislava and Vienna.
Website www.ckrumlov.info
Fruit and vegetable market on a cobbled backstreet lined with When to Go Summer is the most pleasant time to visit the city, although it
distinctive russet-coloured buildings, Bologna, Italy
can look very attractive when it’s covered in snow.
The charming city of Český Krumlov beside the Vltava river, with idyllic Website www.visit.bratislava.sk/en
wooded hills and fields in the background, Czech Republic
CITIES
Carcassonne Gdańsk Bruges
NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW
It may be a highly regarded attraction today, but Although the historic centre of this port city was It is hard to describe the capital of the West
Carcassonne’s walled city, known as “La Cité”, was devastated during World War II, meticulous Flanders province of Belgium without using the
very nearly lost to history: in 1849, the French restoration has recaptured much of the former phrase “fairy tale”, although it was not always
government announced that it was in such glory of its cobbled streets and Flemish architecture. that way. After its heyday from the 12th to 15th
disrepair that it would have to be demolished. Attractions include the vast St Mary’s Church, said centuries, the port fell into decline when its river
Following a public outcry, the architect Eugène to be the largest brick church in the world, the channel silted up, stifling trade. It was only in the
Viollet-le-Duc, who was also responsible for work Gdańsk Crane, the largest medieval port crane in early 20th century that the creation of the nearby
on Notre-Dame de Paris, was commissioned to Europe, and the elegant façades along Ulica port of Zeebrugge reinvigorated Bruges. The
restore the fortifications as a monument of historical Długa. This historic city saw the first shots of medieval walled city is circled by a canal and
importance. Today, it is possible to take tours of World War II fired in Gdańsk Bay in 1939, and was filled with charming step-gabled houses and
the castle and its ramparts, and the Romanesque also the home of the 1980 Solidarity trade union, attractive churches. Although the main squares
and Gothic St Nazaire Basilica is a very popular the formation of which is considered a key – Markt and Burg – are usually bustling with
sight. The Ville Basse (Lower Town), outside the walls, moment in the decline of the Soviet Union. tourists, it is still possible to find peace and quiet
boasts two handsome 13th-century churches. in the streets nearby. The canals are particularly
Practical Information appealing first thing in the morning, before the
Getting There Lech Wałęsa Airport is 14 km (9 miles) from the city. Avoid day-trippers arrive.
Practical Information
Getting There Carcassonne is linked by air to several cities in the UK and taxi touts in favour of transfer buses into the centre. You can also get to the
Ireland, including London and Dublin. The town is also easily reached by city by rail. Trains arrive at Gdańsk Główny train station on the edge of the Practical Information
train from other cities in France. Old Town – the station is a historic attraction in its own right.
Getting There The nearest airports to Bruges are at Brussels and Charleroi
When to Go The temperate climate means that Carcassonne can be visited When to Go Summer is the most popular time to visit Gdańsk, both for the in Belgium and Lille in France. Trains shuttle visitors from the airports to
throughout the year, but it is at its busiest in the summer months. Some warmer weather and for the city’s extensive festival calendar – the Bruges centre. Eurostar services go directly from London to Brussels, from
attractions are closed in winter. Dominican Fair in July is a highlight. which point you can take another train on to Bruges.
Website www.carcassonne.org Website www.en.gdansk.gda.pl When to Go The Old Town is packed with tourists in summer, so visit out of
season to avoid the crowds. Be prepared for cold weather in the winter.
Aerial view of the walled city of Carcassonne, France Close-up of the magnificent clock face on the red-brick St Mary’s
Website www.brugge.be
Church, Gdańsk, Poland
Less-Explored
San Francisco
For every well-trodden tourist trail, San Francisco offers an equally fascinating
alternative, off the beaten track, for an authentic experience
ABOVE Tourists crowded along San Francisco’s popular
Fisherman’s Wharf
NEED TO KNOW For every famous tourist-laden attraction, there’s an FORGET THE SAN
equally good spot for an authentic experience FRANCISCO TOURIST
LOCATION San
Francisco is located along $"/"%"
nearby. Tired of the crowds and commercialism at TRAIL?
California’s Pacific Coast 4FBUUMF Fisherman’s Wharf? Stroll along to see the historic
POPULATION ships at Hyde Street Pier. Frustrated by queues at THE BUILD-UP Most visitors come to the city
64" /FX:PSL$JUZ
792,000 4"/ armed with film-fuelled images of the Golden
'3"/$*4$0 Coit Tower or Twin Peaks? A city with 43 named
VISITORS PER 8BTIJOHUPO
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hills isn’t short of impressive views. Try the ocean Gate Bridge rising out of the fog and boats
YEAR 16.1 million -PT"OHFMFT
vistas from the windswept hills of the Presidio or bobbing alongside Fisherman’s Wharf. And
DAYTIME
who can resist a ride on the romantic cable cars?
TEMPERATURES Jan: the quiet footpaths around the northwest coast.
14°C (57°F); Apr: 17°C (63°F); .&9*$0 At Alamo Square you can admire the classic
Jul: 19°C (66°F); Oct: 21°C (69°F) THE LETDOWN Fisherman’s Wharf is a tourist
row of “Painted Ladies” (wooden houses), with the trap, with overpriced food and shops. Trips to
skyscrapers of the Financial District gleaming in the Alcatraz are often sold out. Parking is difficult
San Francisco is everybody’s favourite American background. Then explore the surrounding streets, at popular places and the streets to famous
city. It would be hard to find another with a more where you’ll find more of these ornate Victorian viewpoints can be clogged with traffic. There are
appealing combination of striking architecture, homes. Brave the descent down crooked Lombard only three cable car lines, so they are not a main
world-class cuisine, cultural attractions, vibrant Street on Russian Hill, and seek out hidden cobbled mode of transportation in the city.
communities and the laid-back, anything-goes lanes like Macondray Lane and Havens Place.
lifestyle, gilded with a mild climate and a stunning You can also visit outstanding art museums, DOING IT ANYWAY? Book tickets in advance
setting on the northern California coast. This is a such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, for Alcatraz. Go to Fisherman’s Wharf early in
the morning to spot a real fisherman. Use public
romantic city, and if you did nothing more than the Legion of Honor, the Asian Art Museum and
transport whenever possible. Wear comfortable
ride its antique cable cars, stroll along the the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park. But
shoes and ride the cable cars at least once.
waterfront, and watch the fog rolling in around the don’t miss the smaller museums dedicated to
Golden Gate Bridge, you would come away happy. cable cars, cartoon art, Jewish heritage, African
There is, however, much more to this diaspora, Chinese history and life in pioneer days.
fascinating place. Since its meteoric rise during the And after you’ve admired the incomparable
1849 Gold Rush, San Francisco has always been a Golden Gate Bridge from every angle, drive across
free-thinking town. The rainbow slices of San it and look back across the bay for an unforgettable
Francisco’s city life are apparent in its more than 40 view of this splendid city.
neighbourhoods. Visit the Italian café-bars of North
Beach, which were a hub for the Beat Generation PRACTICAL INFORMATION
writers of the 1950s, a legacy that still lingers. Get a
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
nostalgic blast of flower power in the old hippie San Francisco International A budget option is Grant Plaza
haven of Haight-Ashbury. Castro is the centre of Airport is 25 km (15 miles) Hotel (www.grantplaza.com).
the city’s gay and lesbian community, and its lively south of the city. Oakland You can opt for the mid-range
bars and clubs welcome straight revellers too. International Airport across the Hotel Boheme (www.hotel
bay is about 33 km (20 miles) boheme.com) or spend on
from downtown. The city has luxury at Palace Hotel
good public transport links, so (www.sfpalace.com).
you don’t need to hire a car.
When to Go
Where to Eat Autumn has the warmest
Combine the city’s diverse ethnic temperatures. Summers can be
cuisines and top chefs with the chilly. Winter brings heavy
Bay Area’s array of fresh produce, showers, but the climate is mild
seafood and fine wines, and you year round. As the city is a
get a rich dining scene. Try Ella’s popular convention destination,
(www.ellassanfrancisco.com) hotels can be busy year round.
for an all-American breakfast;
R&G Lounge (www.rnglounge. Budget per Day for Two
com) for traditional Cantonese £210 for accommodation and
cuisine; or Farallon (www. food at the recommended spots.
farallonrestaurant.com) for a Website
blow-the-budget seafood meal. www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com
ABOVE Cars navigating the sinuous curves of Lombard Street
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ABOVE Victorian ornamentation in Haight-Ashbury
LEFT Rows of “Painted Ladies” on Alamo Square
Neighbourhood
Hang-outs
The real heart of San Francisco lies in its
neighbourhoods, and one of the best ways to
enjoy the city is to skip the tourist areas and hang
out where the locals do. No neighbourhood is
more famous than Haight-Ashbury, the
psychedelic hub of the counterculture of the 1960s
on the edge of Golden Gate Park. These days, the
die-hard hippies and head shops are joined by
boutiques and restaurants and equally fashionable
customers. Survey the scene from The Grind Café,
a local favourite.
The Mission District is another edgy
neighbourhood, where working-class Hispanic
families, artists and cool youth create a vibrant
atmosphere. Stroll along 24th Street to see some of
the area’s fantastic street murals – pick up a map at
Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitor Center – then
have lunch or dinner in one of the many Latino
restaurants or hip eateries.
The adjoining neighbourhoods of Castro and
Noe Valley are great for walking, thanks to the
“golden fire hydrant” opposite Dolores Park that
saved the beautiful homes here from the fires of
the 1906 earthquake. Castro is home to San
Francisco’s large gay and lesbian community. The
flamboyant Castro Theatre is a suitable landmark
and a great place to catch a movie.
Richmond is a bustling residential district
between the Presidio and Golden Gate Park, home
to Russian descendants and Chinese immigrants
who have formed a second Chinatown here. Next
to the Civic Center, Hayes Valley has gentrified into
a trendy neighbourhood of great bars, restaurants,
galleries and boutiques. Try the popular Absinthe
Brasserie and Bar to enjoy cuisine of top quality.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Absinthe Brasserie and Bar 398 Hayes St at Gough, Hayes Valley;
www.absinthe.com
The Castro Theatre Market St, 429 Castro St, Castro; www.thecastro
theatre.com
The Grind Café 783 Haight St, Haight-Ashbury; www.thegrindcafe.com
Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitor Center 2981 24th St, Mission District;
www.precitaeyes.org
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The pews and the altar in dimly lit Saints Peter and Paul
Catholic Church
Heavenly Highs
In a hedonistic city like San Francisco, cathedrals,
churches and other places of worship may not top
your sightseeing list. But these establishments
reveal the city’s rich history and ethnic diversity.
Mission Dolores is the city’s oldest building,
founded by Spanish missionaries in 1776. Its adobe
walls, cemetery and small chapel – which still has
its original timber beams and colonial statues and
altarpiece – are a tribute to the city’s origins. It
lends its name to the Mission District, home to a
largely Hispanic population to this day.
By contrast, Nob Hill’s Grace Cathedral was only
completed in 1964. Beneath its soaring spire, a
wealth of artworks create a spiritual retreat from
the urban buzz, including artist Charles Connick’s
TOP A Chinese Pavilion standing amid lush greenery at the Golden Gate Park ABOVE The beautiful greens and fairways of Lincoln Park Golf Course awash in stained-glass windows and an altarpiece by Keith
the first rays of the sun
Haring. Two medieval labyrinths from the floor of
Chartres Cathedral are replicated, while the gilded
Rock. When the wind is right you can even hear bronze doors are modelled after Ghiberti’s Gates of
Green Spaces the barking of the sea lions who inhabit these Paradise on the baptistery in Florence.
offshore outcrops. In Chinatown, burn some incense and make an
Covering more than 405 hectares (1,000 acres), The last thing you might expect to see in the offering at the Kong Chow Temple, founded by
Golden Gate Park is the city’s most famous downtown Financial District is a grove of giant immigrants in 1851. The god is said to bring good
green space. You could spend days exploring its redwood trees, but that’s exactly what you’ll find at fortune in business, and you’ll see his image in
many attractions, from the Japanese Tea Garden the TransAmerica Redwood Park. The half-acre park restaurants and shops throughout the district.
and Botanical Gardens to the Conservatory of on the eastern side of the TransAmerica Pyramid is The ornate white-stone towers of Saints
Flowers. But there are plenty more alternatives a shady retreat, with playful fountains and statues. Peter and Paul Catholic Church are a North Beach
for getting away from it all. The redwoods are fitting green partners for the landmark. Built for Italian immigrants in 1924, it
Large areas of the northern and western pyramid, which is San Francisco’s tallest building. now says Mass in Italian, English and Chinese.
shoreline are protected in the Golden Gate Another hidden green space is Ina Coolbrith Finally, for an uplifting experience in the
National Recreation Area. The Presidio encompasses Park in Russian Hill, which has terraces carved into downtrodden Tenderloin district, you can sing and
woodlands, beaches, dunes, marshlands and a steep hillside and benches to enjoy the flowers, sway with the gospel choir at Glide Memorial
grasslands that shelter a wealth of birds and wildlife. trees and spectacular views. United Methodist Church.
There are plenty of walking and biking trails and
historic buildings to explore. PRACTICAL INFORMATION PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Lincoln Park, another part of the National Cliff House 1090 Point Lobos, Richmond; www.cliffhouse.com Glide Memorial United Methodist Church 330 Ellis St, Tenderloin;
Recreation Area, may have a golf course and major Ina Coolbrith Park Taylor and Vallejo streets, Russian Hill www.glide.org
art museum, the Legion of Honor, but it also has Lincoln Park Entrances off Clement Street at 34th and 48th avenues, Grace Cathedral 1100 California St, Nob Hill; www.gracecathedral.org
wild, windswept cliffs and dramatic views, which Richmond Kong Chow Temple 855 Stockton St, Chinatown
you can see along the Coastal Trail. It adjoins Sutro The Presidio Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Building 201, Fort Mission Dolores 3321 Sixteenth St, Mission District; www.missiondolores.org
Heights Park, where there are more stunning views Mason, Marina District; www.nps.gov/prsf Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church 666 Filbert St, North Beach;
from Cliff House, a restaurant overlooking Seal TransAmerica Redwood Park 600 Montgomery Street, Financial District www.stspeterpaul.san-francisco.ca.us/church
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Fresh fruit and local produce stalls at the Farmers Market set up on the
Ferry Plaza
Residential Telegraph Hill topped by the Art Deco 64-m (210-ft)
Coit Tower
San Francisco Brewing Company155 Columbus Ave, North Beach; San Francisco Helicopters PO Box 280776; tel. 800 400 2404 (toll free); Tank Hill Belgrave Avenue, Clarendon
www.sfbrewing.com www.sfhelicopters.com Telegraph Hill Filbert Steps
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FORGET BUDAPEST?
THE BUILD-UP The capital of Hungary, which
boasts grand Baroque architecture and pretty
tree-lined boulevards, is one of Europe’s most
beautiful cities. The majestic Danube river,
which separates historic Buda from modern
Pest, is spectacular at night when each bank is
illuminated by a string of lights. There are
many historic spas around the city.
Bath
GOING ANYWAY? Visit a spa for a unique
pools, steam “pods” and treatment rooms. Take its
cultural experience. It is where locals gather to
rooftop facility: on a cool evening, thick clouds of
discuss the issues of the day and men play chess
steam rise and part to reveal a clear pool dotted on the side of the pool. Head for Buda for its
vs Budapest
with swimmers immersed in its warm, mineral-rich historic streets and a fantastic view of the city
waters. There’s no better way to unwind than from the Fishermen’s Bastion. In winter, don’t
lingering in the gentle Jacuzzis here while surveying miss the Christmas market on Vörösmarty Tér.
Budapest, with its healing waters, has just met the rooftops of creamy Georgian buildings glowing
its match in the rejuvenated spa city of Bath in the sunset, as pigeons fly past at eye level.
It’s not just thermal waters that make Bath one of
NEED TO KNOW Europe’s great cities. This is a thriving place with fine
theatres, cinemas, live music and great restaurants,
LOCATION Bath is about 100 shops, museums and art galleries. While the Danube
miles (160 km) west of London *OWFSOFTT
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ABOVE Mexico City’s enormous Zócalo and the imposing
Catedral Metropolitana
Less-Explored
CITIES
Paris
Lauded for its dizzying array of monuments, museums, sweeping boulevards and alluring
cafés, the world’s most romantic city still has a few surprises up its perfumed sleeve ABOVE Tourists queuing for a trip up the Eiffel Tower, Paris
CITIES
ABOVE Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in full bloom, Belleville
LEFT Elegant interior of the Passage du Grand Cerf
Belleville
Belleville has long been at odds with the polished,
prosperous Paris of elegant façades and boulevards
forged by Baron Haussmann in the 1800s. Tapering
streets, old factories and tatty shopfronts proudly
confirm the area’s blue-collar history. Workers flocked
to Belleville in the 1860s, attracted by its factory jobs
and new housing projects, and the area became a
hotbed of opposition to Emperor Napoléon III. This
was the last part of the city to fall to government
troops during the 1871 rule of the Paris Commune.
Stroll along Passage Plantin to glimpse its neat row
of old factory-worker cottages.
By the 1900s, music halls and cabarets had
sprung up in the area, luring the mobs. The urchin-
like singer Édith Piaf was born here in a hospital in
1915, not under a gaslight at 72 Rue de Belleville,
as romantics would like us to believe. But she did
sing for her supper on these streets. Waves of
immigration from Africa, Eastern Europe, Asia and
North Africa have spiced up the mix – North African,
Chinese and Vietnamese shops and restaurants now
line Rue de Belleville. Stop at Lao Siam for a Thai-style
duck curry, or for coffee at La Vielleuse, where you
can eavesdrop on the natterings of Armenians,
Laotians or plain old Parisians. The area has a strong
art vibe too, with contemporary exhibitions at the
Atelier d’Artistes de Belleville. Ironically, Belleville
does owe a debt to Haussmann: he commissioned
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, an old quarry-turned-
verdant-haven with gushing waterfalls, Italian-style
villas, a Greek temple and lodges at each entrance.
Practical Information
Atelier d’Artistes de Belleville 32 Rue de la Mare; tel. +33 1 46 36 44 09;
www.ateliers-artistes-belleville.org
Lao Siam 49 Rue de Belleville; tel. +33 1 40 40 09 68
La Vielleuse 2 Rue de Belleville; tel. +33 1 43 58 06 38
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont Entrances on Rue Manin and Rue Botzaris
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Street Markets
The city’s richly coloured street markets offer an
unrivalled taste of France. Melons picked in Provence,
geese fattened in the Périgord, ruby-red cherries,
milky cheeses, flour-dappled breads and earthy
wild mushrooms are hauled to the city, snapped
up and polished off while still at their peak. Roving
TOP Colourful shopfront with the St-Gervais–St-Protais Church in the background ABOVE Plush interior of the Hôtel Carnavalet marchés volants (street markets) set up twice a week
at cockcrow and disappear by lunchtime, leaving in
CITIES
A restaurant inside Galérie Véro-Dodat
Les Passages
In 19th-century Paris, the city’s shopping arcades, or
passages couverts, were as much a fashionable
place to show off as they were to shop. The
emerging bourgeoisie was enamoured by these
glitzy glass-roofed galleries, not least because of
their bright lighting, heating and shelter from the
rain and careening carriages of the busy streets
outside. They also had cafés and restaurants where
ladies of leisure could linger and people-watch.
One such arcade is Galérie Vivienne, which has
been deftly restored with vaulted arches and
columns, and brims with smart bistros and high-
A couple on a bridge over the Canal St-Martin at dusk end fashion boutiques, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier.
One of the city’s oldest wine stores, the enchanting
ethnic vibe. Africa meets Paris on Rue du Château Legrand Filles et Fils, is also found here. Another of
Canal St-Martin d’Eau, a strip of beauty shops and barbers touting the city’s passages was fitted out in 1826 by two
braids, wigs, dyes, creams and all manner of Afro- butchers, Véro and Dodat, with gaslights, mirrors
and the 10th Carib body magic, while at Passage Brady and Rue and black-and-white marble floors, and crowned
Cail, Indian and Pakistani restaurants and spice with a glass roof interlaced with painted panels.
If you step away from the grinding traffic of the shops rule. Cool off at the Musée de l’Eventail, Today it’s home to antiques shops, art galleries and
main boulevards and flurry of commuters at Gare which showcases 800 fans, some centuries old, personalized couture make-up. The Passage du
du Nord and Gare de l’Est, the 10th arrondissement made by the Houguet family, France’s only Grand Cerf, with its three storeys and aerial bridges,
is a charmer. Its meandering Canal St-Martin, a remaining fan manufacturer. is the highest Parisian arcade and the place to pick
19th-century waterway bordered by swaying up funky 1950s furniture and pretty pearl necklaces.
chestnut and plane trees and overhung by iron Practical Information One of the oldest remaining arcades, Passage des
footbridges, has become a magnet for picnickers, Antoine & Lili 95 Quai de Valmy; tel. +33 1 48 34 40 93; www.antoineetlili.com Panoramas, was built in 1800 and is the home of the
café-goers, retro-shoppers and sun-seekers. You Chez Prune 71 Quai de Valmy; tel. +33 1 42 41 30 47 stamp-collecting trade. Peruse old postcards and
might even see a fisherman dangling a line. Hôpital St-Louis 1 Ave Claude Vellefaux; tel. +33 1 42 49 49 49 stamps here, and visit the bijou Théâtre des Variétés.
Mariners can take to the water on one of the cruise Musée de l’Eventail 2 Boulevard de Strasbourg; tel. +33 1 42 08 90 20
Last stop is Passage Jouffroy, known for its waxworks
boats that chart the locks and tunnels up to the museum (Musée Grévin) and historical monument-
Bassin de la Villette, while film buffs can scout cum-budget lodging at the Hôtel Chopin.
the spot where Amélie Poulain skipped stones
in the quirky 2001 French film, Amélie.
Practical Information
Drift along Quai de Valmy for sustenance – a
Galérie Véro-Dodat From 19 Rue Jean Rousseau to 2 Rue du Bouloi,
glass of wine with olive tapenade and taramasalata Beaubourg and Les Halles; Métro: Louvre or Palais Royal
at supremely laid-back Chez Prune, or snap up a
Galérie Vivienne From 4 Rue des Petits-Champs to 6 Rue Vivienne, Opéra;
piece of colourful kitsch from Antoine & Lili. Follow Métro: Bourse; www.galerie-vivienne.com
Quai Jemmapes to Rue de la Grange aux Belles and Passage des Panoramas From 10 Rue St Marc to 11 Bd Montmartre, Opéra;
on to the Hôpital St-Louis, which ranks with the Métro: Richelieu-Drouot
buildings on Place des Vosges as one of the city’s Passage du Grand Cerf From 145 Rue St-Denis to 10 Rue Dussoubs, Beaubourg
best examples of brick and stone architecture. and Les Halles; Métro: Étienne Marcel; www.passagedugrandcerf.com
Nearby Place Ste-Marthe boasts atmospheric Passage Jouffroy From 12 Bd Montmartre to 9 Grange Batelière, Opéra;
streets lined with time-worn façades and a chirpy ABOVE The picturesque Canal St-Martin Métro: Richelieu-Drouot
318
Less-Explored
CITIES
Sydney
Images of Sydney’s iconic cityscape and harbour may be imprinted on the mind,
but there are lesser-known – yet no less exciting – sides to this amazing city
ABOVE Sydney Opera House viewed from a harbour cruise
NEED TO KNOW yellows and oranges in the morning light. On the FORGET THE SYDNEY
other three sides, national parks rich in astonishing TOURIST TRAIL?
LOCATION Sydney is 290 km */%0/&4*"
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ABOVE “Koalas crossing” road sign
LEFT World-famous Bondi Beach seen from a less-familiar viewpoint
Weekend
Retreats
To the south of Sydney, the sleepy coastal village of
Sussex Inlet offers a unique glimpse of Australian
life. During the day, take a fishing boat out on the
tranquil waters, enjoy a round of golf (making sure
you don’t hit a kangaroo) or walk along the inlet to
the entrance and then back across the wild, rugged
beach to complete the loop. In the evening, join
the locals for dinner at the Bamboo River Chinese
restaurant in the RSL Club.
Situated on a scenic back road that leads to the
Hunter Valley wine region, the small, historic town
of Wollombi is the perfect destination for a romantic
getaway. You can stay in charming guesthouses
and visit local vineyards; awaken to the cry of bell
birds, and stroll through misty valleys on your
perfect weekend. Make sure to leave time for a
counter lunch at the Settlers Arms Inn at St Albans
on the way there or back.
At the end of a long and winding road is the
historic Caves House, a beautiful Victorian-built,
Tudor-style building with accommodation to suit
every budget. Located within a World Heritage
area, right on its doorstep are the Jenolan Caves,
a labyrinth of limestone caves that, at 340 million
years old, are by far the oldest yet discovered.
To really escape the city and soak up the peace
of the Australian bush, hire a houseboat and enjoy
Kur-ring-gai Chase National Park from the water.
Clipper Cruises at Akuna Bay are only 40 minutes
north of the city. Moor next to a deserted beach,
cast a fishing line and try your luck, or head to
Cottage Point Inn for a long, leisurely lunch.
Practical Information
Clipper Cruises at Akuna Bay www.clippercruisers.com.au
Cottage Point Inn www.cottagepointinn.com.au
Jenolan Caves Three hours’ drive on the Great Western Highway via the Blue
Mountains; www.jenolancaves.org.au; www.jenolancaveshouse.com.au
Kur-ring-Gai Chase National Park www.atn.com.au/pittwater/park.htm
Sussex Inlet Three hours’ drive south of Sydney, 10 km (6 miles) off
the Princes Highway; www.sussexinlet.info; www.sussexrsl.com.au
Wollombi Two hours’ drive northwest of Sydney via the Great
Northern Road and Wisemans Car Ferry; www.wollombivalley.com;
www.settlersarms.com.au
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CITIES
Spectacular city skyline view from the Sydney Flying Squadron’s deck
ABOVE Pavement cafés along Luzern’s Reuss river, with the Baroque Jesuitenkirche in the background
RIGHT Aerial View of Helsinki, with the prominent Great Church and Senate Square in the foreground
LUZERN, SWITZERLAND A town and a lake, Luzern (Lucerne in French) is quintessential HELSINKI, FINLAND Helsinki seems too quiet, too tranquil to be a capital city. Spread
Switzerland: clean, quaint and prosperous, with clear fresh air. Half-timbered houses and across bays, peninsulas and islands, it has one of the lowest population densities of any
ancient bridges on the Reuss river are among the sights you’ll see as you stroll around major European city. Summer is lovely here, with a full 18 hours of daylight and
the town. Visit the Picasso Museum, where most of the works on show date from the temperatures that are moderated by the sea. The city is best known for its Art Nouveau,
latter part of the artist’s life. Plenty of entertainment is laid on, too, with regular music but it’s also strong on contemporary architecture – expect clean lines. Classical
events (the town has its own orchestra) and a thriving nightlife. On Tuesdays and composer Jean Sibelius (1865–1957) is the city’s musical hero and his name is
Saturdays, market stalls line the arcaded streets of the Old Town. everywhere, but expect to hear a lot of jazz, too.
CORK, IRELAND For the independent- LIJIANG, CHINA Up near the Tibetan and TOLEDO, SPAIN There are few cities where getting lost is such a pleasure. The narrow
minded Corkonians, their hometown is a Burmese borders, Lijiang isn’t the easiest twisting streets of medieval Toledo hold delights and surprises around every corner. You
rival to Dublin, rather than standing in place to get to, but China’s best-preserved are never lost for long, however, because the rocky escarpment at the city’s edge drops
second place. A city of more than 20 ancient town repays the effort. Beneath sheer away to a meander in the Tagus river, which acts as a natural moat. Just south of
bridges, Cork has at its centre a vibrant its rippling roofs, life goes on as it has for Madrid, Toledo was Spain’s first capital. Romans, Moors, Christians and Jews have all left
and compact island full of lively pubs, hundreds of years. And the climate here their mark on the city, which is as famous for forging the swords of Latin America’s
excellent restaurants and artistic venues. is pleasant 365 days a year. conquistadors as it is for the paintings of El Greco.
QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND SPLIT, CROATIA Whether you’re having GRONINGEN, THE NETHERLANDS
Queenstown likes to see itself as the a drink in the Peristyle café or visiting a There’s always something going on in
adventure capital of the world and, with market stall in Diocletian’s Palace, on Groningen, which is maybe why it was
some truly astounding scenery, it’s easy to every side you are surrounded by Roman voted the country’s best city centre.
see why: the city lies on deep-blue Lake history. The emperor’s buildings are still Night-times are as good as the days –
Wakatipu, and has mountains all around. the focus of Croatia’s second city. They lie there are many romantic spots in the old
It’s popular for skiing in winter and has a beside the palm-tree-lined Riva, a town, with its cosy restaurants and cafés
real buzz in summer, when people flock pedestrianized promenade lapped by and medieval streets and squares. The
here for skidiving and white-water rafting. the Adriatic. On summer evenings, people museums here house everything from
Enjoy the local wines between adventures. gather here to stroll, to sit and to chat. comics to cutting-edge art.
TARTU, ESTONIA The centre of Estonia’s SIDI IFNI, MOROCCO This former SANTIAGO, CUBA Compact and noisy,
second city is cobblestoned, pastel- Spanish colonial outpost brought Art Santiago sizzles with heat and music. It
coloured and peppered with museums Deco to Africa, and the characteristic was here that Castro’s revolution began
and galleries. Tartu has been the country’s tiles and ironwork are on display in in 1953, with a failed attack on the
intellectual and cultural centre since a many places around the city. Sidi Ifni is Moncada army barracks. Set on a
university was founded here in the early unexpectedly charming, with a big sandy beautiful bay, with a deep natural
16th century. It’s a friendly student town beach where the Atlantic pounds (expert harbour, it’s a city of narrow streets,
of inexpensive bars and restaurants, and surfers head here when the waves crumbling colonial architecture and
makes a convenient base for exploring really start to roll). The Sunday souk is friendly people. It’s also the place to hear
the rest of the country. authentically African and full of music. the most vibrant music in Cuba.
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CITIES
ABOVE The richly decorated gateway to Hien Lam Cac temple within the Imperial City of Hue Citadel
RIGHT Chinese fishing nets looming over the water in Cochin like vast spiders perched upon their webs
HUE, VIETNAM Looking at the grand illuminated Ngo Mon Gate at night, it’s hard to COCHIN, INDIA Cochin (also known as Kochi) is a melting pot of the many colonial
imagine the battering Hue Citadel received during the Vietnam War. Home of emperors cultures that have flourished in Kerala. There’s a fascinating Jewish quarter and an English
from the mid-18th century until the end of World War I, its jumble of knocked-about village green, as well as Portuguese and Dutch mansions and palaces. Keralan culture is
monuments is still an impressive sight. Utterly tranquil now beside the Song Huong vibrant and there are plenty of chances to see colourful Kathakali theatre and dance.
(Perfume River), the fortified citadel of the old imperial capital has quiet streets that are Ferries ply the lovely harbour, allowing you to discover the many facets of the city’s
easy to find your way around. Better-preserved are the tombs of the emperors, which lie peninsulas and islands. Go for a tour of the tranquil backwaters in an elegant wicker
in temples, palaces and lakes to the south of the city. A sampan will take you there. rice boat and see traditional life continuing along the banks (see p157).
SOZOPOL, BULGARIA Stuck out in the LUANG PRABANG, LAOS Set on the Mekong river, the former royal capital of Laos is
Black Sea like a crab’s claw, Sozopol is more like a village than a city, its traffic largely two-wheeled and often unmotorized.
Bulgaria’s main fishing port. Life carries on Buddhism is the dominant religion, and more than two dozen temples are home to around
much as always in the cobbled streets and a thousand monks. Rise at dawn to watch them pass by, taking food offered by the
wooden houses, though the arrival of community, their only meal of the day. The city is pleasantly warm all year round, and much
tourists (and Hollywood stars fleeing the of life is lived outdoors. The night market is a daily highlight. Take a trip on a long-tailed
limelight) is bound to lead to changes. boat up the river to find further Buddhist sites, including the Pak Ou Caves (see p39).
LECCE, ITALY If you stumble on Lecce by DARWIN, AUSTRALIA Most visitors to ALEPPO, SYRIA This is one of the oldest
chance, you’re in for a shock. In the poor, Darwin are en route to the nearby cities in the world – and it feels like it.
dry lands of Italy’s “heel”, this Baroque city Kakadu and Lichfield national parks, but Among its crumbling, sun-baked
erupts like a volcano out of the sea. Many this energetic and cosmopolitan city has buildings is a wonderful souk surrounding
façades are enriched with the lace-like attractions of its own that are well worth the Great Mosque and ancient warehouses,
patterns of the decorative Lecce Baroque seeking out. Take in the ocean views at which were used by merchants on this
style and look especially enchanting at Cullen and Fannie bays. Shop for classy important stop on the Silk Road. At its
night. Enclosed in a city wall, with a lively Aboriginal crafts. And if you fancy a beer, centre is the citadel, where the beautiful
street life, this former Roman town is the you’re in the right place – the city’s Ayyubid Palace and Mameluke Throne
most exuberant in southern Italy. alcohol consumption is notorious. Room hint at the wealth of the past.
SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO, USA There THESSALONIKI, GREECE With snowy SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA Most visitors SHIRAZ, IRAN This beautiful city lies on
is a sizeable artistic community in the Mount Olympus gazing down across the to Siem Reap are here to see the great high ground, which keeps its temperatures
picturesque old Spanish town of Santa bay, Thessaloniki could not be better sited. Khmer enclave of Angkor Wat and the moderate. It’s a university town and has
Fe, which lies in a green valley within Greece’s ancient second city is a well- scores of surrounding temples. But the wide avenues shaded by trees. Many of
sight of the ski slopes of the Sangre de turned-out town, with buzzing cafés, bars town is worthy of appreciation, too. It the mosques, monuments and splendid
Cristo range. Clear blue skies give the air and restaurants. Wonderful Byzantine started to boom when the temples were gardens were either built or restored in
a brilliant clarity, and it’s warm all year churches have survived wars, earthquakes, discovered in the early 20th century. The the 18th century, when it was the Iranian
round. Creative Native Americans were occupations and a devastating fire, and colonial architecture and Chinese-style capital, and take a good few days to
here first, and buyers come from all over the golden treasures of the tomb of buildings make it an attractive place. Take explore. Within striking distance are the
the world for the Indian Market in August. Philip of Macedon are not far away. home local silks from the market. magnificent ruins of Persepolis (see p44).
324
CITIES
ABOVE Shimla, once a Raj hill station and now the fast-growing capital of Himachal Pradesh
RIGHT Sintra’s Palácio Nacional de Pena, a fascinating mixture of different architectural styles
SHIMLA, INDIA The best way to travel to the mountain retreat of Shimla is the way SINTRA, PORTUGAL This is a charming town with fairy-tale appeal, where the kings of
British officers and their wives did during the Raj: aboard the panoramic narrow-gauge Portugal used to come to escape Lisbon’s summer heat. Hidden among wooded hills
steam railway. Clinging to spurs way up in the northwest Himalayas, Shimla (then Simla) above the Atlantic Ocean are a scattering of palatial retreats, their fanciful turrets peeking
was the summer headquarters of the British government in India, a place to escape out. At their centre is the Palácio Nacional de Sintra. Begun by the Moors, it was a popular
the intense heat of the plains. The Viceregal Lodge and Gaiety Theatre are reminders summer residence for some of Portugal’s royal family for hundreds of years. Exploring
of those days, as are The Ridge and Scandal Point on the Mall – a road and a crossroads, Sintra by foot involves lots of walking, but take heart – you can always hop aboard one
respectively. The latter is still the town’s main strolling and meeting area. of the horse and carriage rides if you tire of climbing the town’s steep hills.
ADDIS ABABA, ETHIOPIA The name of SIENA, ITALY Nobody who walks into SAVANNAH, GEORGIA, USA This is the American South at its most gracious. Come
this city, which means “new flower”, is a Siena’s Piazza del Campo can fail to be to sip sweet tea and enjoy the locals’ renowned hospitality. Take a guided tour of the
fitting way to describe the rising star of overwhelmed by the audacity of its space. historic district – it’s one of the largest and most elegant in the USA – to find out
Africa. Old meets new in Addis Ababa, This hilltop Tuscan town is much smaller who lived where and how they made their money. River Street is among the main
where you’ll find a museum housing 3.2- and less busy than major tourist centres entertainment areas, lined with warehouse conversions housing seafood restaurants,
million-year-old human remains, historic such as Florence, but is jammed full of souvenir shops and taverns. Walking is the best way to explore the city, but do go for a
monuments, hip bars and luxury hotels. rewarding corners and artistic highlights. riverboat or harbour cruise – preferably in a paddle steamer.
HEIDELBERG, GERMANY One of ODESSA, UKRAINE Returning to the TOURS, FRANCE As a hopping-off place
Germany’s most romantic towns, world stage after decades in the Soviet for the châteaux of the Loire, Tours is too
Heidelberg owes a lot to its setting, high Union, this cosmopolitan port has often overlooked. Lying between the Loire
on a bank beside the Neckar river, with a rediscovered itself as the hotspot of the and Cher rivers, the city has a half-timbered
a ruined Gothic castle looking down on Black Sea. Summers here have a medieval centre with a first-rate art
it. Mark Twain wrote of the duels that Mediterranean feel, the beaches are gallery, cathedral and sophisticated
took place here (you can still visit the playgrounds and people stay up late. boutiques. Social activity centres around
duelling club for coffee or tea), but it’s Palaces, a ballet theatre and an opera Place Plumereau, particularly at weekends,
hard to imagine blood being spilled in house are proof that the city’s grandeur when commuters who take the TGV train
such a genteel, well-preserved town. never entirely went away. to Paris find time to relax.
SUCRE, BOLIVIA Although Sucre was SEDONA, ARIZONA, USA Set between GRAZ, AUSTRIA The Habsburgs seem
once the country’s capital, its core is desert and mountain snows, Sedona is to live on in this sunny city in southeast
sufficiently contained to walk around. hauntingly beautiful. The city is known for Austria, with its old regime of grand
Bolivians are the most colourfully attired its massive red sandstone rocks and rich palaces, spires and cobbled courtyards.
of all Latin Americans, and they create a cultural life, which includes the Sedona Unblemished by war, its architectural mix
continual vibrancy beneath the white International Film Festival and various – from Italian Renaissance to Baroque –
walls, balconies and red roofs of this old music events. Shops offer crystals, amulets gives the city a solid, confident air. But not
Spanish city. The exhibitions at the textile and other healing devices that appeal to all is old – there’s a brand-new art gallery
and modern-art museums are testament New Age visitors who are convinced the and an imaginative glass amphitheatre
to the continuing taste for bright colours. Native Americans are on to something. that sits in the middle of the Mur river.
325
CITIES
ABOVE Hindus making offerings to the gods in a puja ritual on the banks of Lake Pichola in Udaipur
LEFT Canada, Quebec City, Saint Lawrence River in winter, Château Frontenac in the background
QUEBEC CITY, CANADA History runs deep in Quebec City. The French-speaking town UDAIPUR, INDIA Resplendent with a score of maharajas’ palaces, the “City of Lakes”
on the St Lawrence River has North America’s only fortified old town outside Mexico, and in Rajasthan is one of the most beautiful, tranquil places on the whole subcontinent.
you can walk its walls. Dominating the old town is the French-style Château Frontenac, Anybody who stays in one of the former palaces that are now hotels is liable to feel like
with its turrets, towers and steep green copper roof. The hotel’s sumptuous public salons a maharaja, too. City Palace is the largest in Rajasthan and dominates the town. Part
are an excellent place to enjoy an old-fashioned tea. Quebec City has a Parisian feel, and museum, part hotel, it’s full of artworks and antiques. Lake Palace, made entirely of
every tiny street is worth a visit. Conveniently, most of the sights are packed into one white marble, has a magical setting on Lake Pichola. The impressive building has been
corner, above and below the Cap Diamant cliffs. a setting for film shoots, including the James Bond film Octopussy.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE, FRANCE As you MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY “The highest quality of life in South America” is a statement
wander Aix’s fountain-filled streets, you can’t that’s often made about Montevideo, and it’s easy to see why. This is a prosperous,
help but be seduced by the joie de vivre. The sophisticated and relaxed city, with wide avenues, handsome European-style buildings
town’s ongoing love affair with art can be and all the trappings of modern life. The beaches are pretty wonderful, too. The best
seen in the cathedral, with treasures such as place for a stroll is the Rambla, the avenue that runs along the city’s waterfront beside
the 15th-century Burning Bush triptych by the Río de la Plata and Montevideo Bay. It’s here that people gather to play, exercise and
French artist Nicolas Froment. meet up for a maté, the local tea.
ISFAHAN, IRAN It’s hard to think of KANAZAWA, JAPAN Nowhere in Japan SALVADOR, BRAZIL More Caribbean in NANCY, FRANCE Stand in the middle
a city centre as beautiful as Isfahan’s can you feel so close to the days of its outlook than most of Brazil, Salvador is a of Nancy’s Place Stanislas and at once
Imam Square (see pp120–21). Nor can feudal lords. Little remains of Kanazawa laid-back town that likes to party. Music you feel an exhilarating sense of style
there be bazaars more exciting nor Castle except a rebuilt gate and walls, follows you wherever you go – on the and space. Around you, the magnificent
mosques more exquisite than the but within its grounds lies the exquisite beautiful palm-backed beaches or around Hôtel de Ville, the theatre and the Musée
brilliantly tiled examples here. A day’s samurai Seisonkaku Villa. Nearby there the old district of Pelourinho, which has des Beaux Arts are as fresh and dazzling
sightseeing is best ended on the are samurai mansions and two geisha some of the finest colonial architecture in as the day they were completed more
two-storey Khaju Bridge, where young districts of traditional wooden buildings, South America. This is the third-largest than 250 years ago. This is a lovely place
people meet to enjoy themselves on including a teahouse where you will be city in Brazil, and its carnival is the biggest to sit in a café, and the medieval quarter
warm desert evenings. expertly waited on. street party in the world (see pp50–51). has many delightful shops.
TAOS, NEW MEXICO, USA Surrounded VIENTIANE, LAOS As capital cities go, BRISTOL, UK Set on the River Avon in England’s West Country, Bristol has a real buzz: its
by ski mountains and broad plateaus, Vientiane feels little more than a country docks are tourist honeypots, its galleries and theatre are thriving, and the area of Clifton,
Taos is a picturesque town that was a town. A broad, open community beside beside Brunel’s great suspension bridge, is as elegant as ever. Visit Brunel’s SS Great Britain
favourite with artists at the beginning of the Mekong river, it’s largely on the flat for an insight into how passengers used to have to make transatlantic journeys.
the 20th century. They were drawn here and ideal for walking around (though
by the walled adobe Taos Pueblo, which a tuk tuk will help you through the
dates back nearly a thousand years and is traffic). The temples and stupas are the
still inhabited by villagers today. Head for highlights, particularly Wat Si Saket and
the Harwood Museum of Art to see the Pha That Luang. The place to chill is by
work of present-day artists. the river in one of the café kiosks’ gardens.
326
Geographical Index
GEOGR APHICAL INDE X
The geographical index below locates the main sights covered in this book on a map of the
world. Every entry in the list has a grid reference, and the destinations in bold are also labelled G R EEN L A N D
on the map. The numbers in brackets refer to the pages on which the sights appear.
Custer, South Dakota Forest, Ecuador.... H6 (176–7) Lourdes, France ........ D13 (98)
ŤKicking Horse
................................................................... D4 (250) Kaieteur National Park, Lower Franconia, Germany
Havana, Cuba .......... F6 (218–9) Guyana...................................... H8 (175) ................................................................... C13 (266)
ŤSeattle Montreal
Kalibo, Philippines Orinoco River, Venezuela Lyon, France ............... D13 (256–7) ŤCuster Ť
................................................................... G23 (52) ................................................................... G8 (152–3) Malmö, Sweden ...... B14 (135)
ŤWyoming Chicago
Kicking Horse, Canada Olinda and Recife, Brazil Mamaia, Romania Ť New York City Ť
................................................................... C3 (212–3) ................................................................... J10 (53) ................................................................... D15 (54–5)
ŤReno
Lāna‘i, Hawai‘i ......... F1 (192–3) Patagonian Fjords, Chile/ Mérida, Spain ................ D12 (23, 139) San Francisco Ť
ŤBryce Canyon U SA
Los Angeles, USA Argentina.......................... M6 (160) Montpelier, France D13 (139)
................................................................... E3 (132–3) Pisac, Peru............................ J7 (35) Mnajdra, Malta ........... E14 (17) ŤLos Angeles
Manzanillo, Costa Rica Point Reyes, USA .... D3 (88) Nottingham, UK ...... C12 (254) ŤNogales
AT L A N T I C
................................................................... G6 (199)
ŤBarbados
New York City Tiwanaku, Bolivia ... K7 (34) Pula, Croatia..................... D14 (20–1) OCEAN E L SALVAD O R N IC AR AG UA
Seattle, USA................. C3 (74–75) Avignon, France ...... D13 (64) Ireland ...................................... C12 (234–5) ŤIguaçu Falls
CH I L E
Silver City, USA ........... E4 (30) Bath, UK................................ C12 (312) Ticino, Switzerland
Tikal, Guatemala.. G5 (40–1) Bilbao, Spain ................... D12 (134) ................................................................... D13 (266)
ŤMendoza
Toronto, Canada Bologna, Italy ................ D14 (306) Trier, Germany............. C13 (22) U R U G UAY
................................................................... D6 (134) Bratislava, Slovakia.. C14 (306) Trondheim, Norway Buenos Aires Ť ŤPunta del Este
Wyoming, USA ..... D6 (148–9) Bruges, Belgium ...... C13 (307) ................................................................... A14 (98) ARGENTI NA
Yarmouthport, Canada Burgundy, France ... D13 (267) Umbria, Italy .............. D14 (264–5) Patagonian Fjords
................................................................... D7 (88) Cadiz, Spain...................... E12 (266) Venice, Italy Torres del Paine ŤLake District
Yosemite, USA............. E3 (150, 175) Canterbury, UK .......... C13 (98) .................................D14 (127, 300–1, 302–3)
Bolivia ....................................... K7 (82–3) ................................................................... C13 (134) El Djem, Tunisia......... E13 (22)
Cordillera Blanca, Peru Florence, Italy Essaouira, Morocco
................................................................... J6 (85) .............................................................. D14 (123, 127) ................................................................... E12 (56–7)
A N TA R C TI C A
Cusco, Peru ................... J7 (71) Font-de-Gaume, France Fez, Morocco............. E12 (298–9)
Copa, Peru .......................... J6 (222) ................................................................... D13 (255) iSimangaliso Wetland Park,
Cotopaxi, Ecuador Froncysyllte, UK ........ C12 (138) South Africa ..................... L15 (196)
................................................................... H6 (223) Gdańsk, Poland......... C14 (307) Janjangbureh, Gambia
Vitória, Brazil.................... K9 (151) Geysir, Iceland........ A11 (168–9) ................................................................... G11 (17)
Fernando de Noronha, Goseck, Germany . C14 (16) Jebel Acacus, Libya King penguins huddled for warmth with their chicks after
Brazil ............................................ J10 (161) Haro, Spain.................... D13 (59) ................................................................... F14 (254) a snowstorm, Antartica (see page 112)
327
ICE L A N D
N O RWAY
Geysir
ŤŤ SWEDEN
Reykjavík F I N L AN D
R U SS I A N F E D E R AT I ON
Isle of Harris ESTON I A
Ť EUROPE L AT V I A
D EN M A R K
Rīga Ť
Tandragee LI TH UAN I A
Ť KUI NNGITDEODM POL AN D
IRELAND B EL AR US
Hoge Veluwe NP
London Delft Ť
Bath ŤŤ Ť Ť G ER M AN Y
INDIA
MYA N MA R
V I ET NA M Ť
OCEAN
MA U R ITA N IA M AL I Meroe O MA N L AO S
N IG E R
Ť
ER I TR EA YEM EN THAILAND
SE N EG A L
C HAD S U DAN Goa
GA M B I A
BURKINA Ť P H I L I P P I N ES
FASO DJ I BOU TI CAMBODIA
GU I N E A -
B ISSA U G U I N EA ŤLalibela M IC R O N ES IA
GHANA
N IG E R I A
CÔT E
SIERRA
L EO N E
D ’ IVO I R E CEN TR AL
AF R I CAN R EP.
ETH IOP IA ŤKandy BRUNEI
M AR S H AL L
IS L AN D S
B EN I N Ihuru SRI LANKA
LIBERIA
TOGO C A M ER OON
Ť MA L AYS I A
U GAN DA SO M ALIA S I NG A P O R E
MA L D I V ES
EQUATOR IAL
GU I N EA Western Rift Valley KEN YA
Ť B O R N EO
Mount Stanley Ť R WAN DA
G ABON
Borobudur Ť
GUINEA SO LO M O N
TAN Z AN I A IS L AN D S
E AST
T I MO R
ANGO L A
MAL AWI Christmas Island Ť
Z AM B IA
VAN UAT U
INDIAN
MADAGASCAR
ZI M BABWE
NAM I B IA FIJI
MOZ AM B IQU E
OCEAN
BOTSWANA
SWA ZI L AN D
A U ST R A LI A
Drakensberg
SOUTH
Ť LESOTHO
AT L A N T I C AF R ICA
ŤPerth ŤSydney
OCEAN
ŤMelbourne
NEW
ZEALAND
Karoo National Park, South Mount Stanley, Uganda Bandrinath, India ... E19 (99) Ellora, India ........................ G19 (31) Istanbul, Turkey Samarkand, Uzbekistan Christmas Island
Africa ............................................. L15 (88) ................................................................... H15 (220–1) Alleppey, India............ G19 (157) Damascus, Syria E16 (42–3) ....................................................D15 (118–9, 122) ................................................................... D18 (122) ................................................................... K21 (226–7)
KwaZulu–Natal, South Africa Pemba, Tanzania..... J16 (229) Annapurna, Nepal Danang, Vietnam.. F21 (190) Isfahan, Iran ................. E17 (120–1) Singapore ............................ H21 (58) Melbourne, Australia
................................................................... L15 (164,175) Ruaha National Park, Tanzania ................................................................... F20 (90–1) Delhi, India .................... F19 (127) Jerusalem, Israel Suzhou, China ................................................................... M24 (62–3)
Lake Nasser, Egypt ................................................................... J16 (164) Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka Dubai, UAE ......................... F17 (190) ................................................................... E15 (123) .................................................... E22 (104, 126) Mount Augustus, Australia
................................................................... F15 (100–1) Saadani National Park, ................................................................... H19 (38) Goa, India ......................... G19 (70) Jog Falls, India.............. G19 (174) Tel Aviv, Israel ................................................................... L22 (150)
Lalibela, Ethiopia Tanzania .................................. J16 (197) Aqaba, Jordan ............. E16 (228) Gobustan, Azerbaijan Kamchatka, Russia .................................................... E16 (138, 191) Mount Wilhelm, Papua New
................................................................... G16 (28–9) Sabratha, Libya.... E14 (198) Ayutthaya, Thailand ................................................................... D17 254 ................................................................... C26 (215) Teluk Intan, Malaysia Guinea ........................................ J24 (222)
Lamu Island, Kenya Samburu National Reserve, ................................................................... G21 (38) Guangzhou, China Kandy, Sri Lanka ................................................................... H21 (126) Murujuga, Australia
................................................................... J16 (197) Kenya............................................ H16 (164) Banda Islands, Indonesia ................................................................... F22 (102–3) ................................................................... H19 (60–1) Tianjin, China................. D22 (105) ................................................................... K22 (255)
Leptis Magna, Libya Timgad, Algeria ........ E13 (26) ................................................................... J23 (229) Guizhou, China.......... E21 (105) Kaunos, Turkey........... E15 (30) Thanjavur, India Perth, Australia
................................................................... E14 (22) Watamu, Kenya... J16 (194–5) Borneo ....................................... H22 (179) Gyeongju, South Korea Kolkata, India ................. F20 (108) ................................................................... G19 (13) ............................................................. M22 (188–189)
Lopé National Park, Gabon Western Rift Valley, Bhutan..................................... F20 (232–3) ................................................................... E23 (293) Palau............................................... H23 (229) Tufi, Papua New Guinea
................................................................... H14 (165) Uganda .................................. H15 (162–3) Borobudur, Java Hampi, India ................... G19 (39) Palmyra, Syria................ E16 (27) AUSTRALASIA & ................................................................... J25 (228)
Luangwa Valley, Zambia Zanzibar, Tanzania .. J16 (197) ................................................................... J22 (36–7) Hangzhou, China Luoyang, China......... F22 (31) Sydney, Australia
ANTARCTICA
................................................................... K15 (165) Cappadocia, Turkey ................................................................... E22 (104) Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia ............................ M25 (66–7, 318–9, 320–1)
Madagascar ..................... K16 (165) ASIA ................................................................... E15 (230–1) Hong Kong, China ................................................................... H22 (223) Auckland, New Zealand Victoria, Australia ... M25 (89)
Marrakech, Morocco Chengde, China .. D22 (130–1) ................................................ F22 (294–5, 296–7) Nara, Japan........................ E24 (39) ................................................................... M26 (191)
................................................................... E12 (126) Band–e Amir Lakes, Chongqing, China Ihuru, Maldives Pak Ou, Laos.................... F21 (39) Blue Mountains, Australia
Meroe, Sudan .......... G15 (10–1) Afghanistan...................... E18 (157) ................................................................... E21 (104) ................................................................... H19 (200–1) Sanchi, India.................... F19 (123) ................................................................... M25 (178)
328
INDE X
Index Argentina Bauhaus (Dessau) 274 Boryeong (South Korea), Mud Festival 79 Cambodia
Buenos Aires 129, 142, 218 Bavaria (Germany), Lower Franconia 266 Bosluisbaii (Namibia) 207 Angkor 36
A Carnival (Gualeguaychu) 79 beaches 186–209, 236–7, 320 Bosnia and Herzegovina, Stari Most Mekong river 113, 153
Aachen (Germany), Cathedral 143 Che Guevara’s Motorcycle Route 113 Beara Peninsula (Ireland) 180 (Mostar) 47 Siem Reap 323
Abu Simbel (Egypt) 100–1 Horseback cattle drive (Patagonia) 114 Beaufort Castle (Nabatieh) 43 Boston (USA), Museum of Bad Art 275 Camel-trekking (Morocco) 241
Abydos (Egypt), Temple of Seti I 44 Iguaçu Falls 172–3 Beaumaris Castle (Anglesey) 43 Botany Bay (Australia) 320 Camino di Assisi (Italy) 99
Acapulco (Mexico) 86 Wine-tasting (Mendoza) 248–9 Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Musées Royaux des Bou Inania Medersa (Fez) 298 Camino Real Trek (Panama) 115
acrobat displays (Beijing) 241 Arizona (USA) (Brussels) 274 Brac (Croatia) 170–1 Camino de Santiago (France/Spain) 97, 98
Acropolis (Athens) 18 Canyon de Chelly 159 Beijing (China) 102, 112 Bratislava (Slovakia) 306 Campanile San Marco (Venice) 127, 302
Acropolis (Rhodes) 19 Grand Canyon 158 acrobat displays 241 Brazil Canada
activities 212–41 Sedona 324 Bird’s Nest Stadium 145 The Amazon 152 The Canadian 94
Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) 324 The Ark (Bukhara) 46 Lama Temple 131 Belém 61 Cape Breton Island 207
Adelaide (Australia) 95 art 244–7, 250–5, 258–61, 270–3, 274–7 Temple of Heaven 130 Belo Horizonte 143 Gwaii Haanas National Park 240
Adriatic Sea, Sailing 239 Art Nouveau District (Riga) 305 Yonghegong 46 Capoeira 240 Icefields Parkway Drive 112
Afghanistan, Band-e Amir Lakes 157 arts festivals 62–5, 78–9, 268–9, 274 Belém (Brazil), Cirio de Nazare 61 Curitiba 145 Iqalit 77
Aggtelek Caves (Hungary) 180 Assisi (Italy), Basilica di San Francesco 99, HMS Belfast (London) 284 Fernando de Noronha 161 Kicking Horse 212–13
Agra (India), Taj Mahal 93, 106 265 Belgium Iguaçu Falls 172–3 Montreal 68–9, 256
Agrigento (Sicily) 18–19 Assos (Turkey) 19 Antwerp 281 Ilha Grande 207 Niagara Falls 173
Águas Livres Aqueduct (Portugal) 139 Asti (Italy), Palio 72–3 Binche 76 Joatinga Beach 209 Nova Scotia 88
Ait Benhaddou (Morocco) 44 Aswan Dam (Egypt) 100 Bruges 307 Manaus 275 Pacific Crest Trail 115
Aitutaki (Cook Islands) 206 Athena, Tempio de (Assos) 19 Brussels 143, 274, 277 Mata Atlântica 178 Pan-American Highway 89
Aix-en-Provence (France) 325 Athens (Greece) 18 Ghent 281 Olinda & Recife 53 Quebec City 325
Aix-en-Provence Festival 269 marathon 217 Ostend 77 Pantanal 182 Red Mountain 214
Akrotiri (Santorini) 26 Ati-Atihan (Philippines) 52–3 Belize Parintins 77 Toronto 134, 143
Aksum Kingdom 28 Atlas Mountains (Morocco) 233 El Caracol 46 Pedra Azul 151 tundra buggying for polar bears 114
Al-Mamzar Beach (Dubai) 190 The Atomium (Brussels) 143 Lamanai 41 Porto de Galinhas 209 Viking Trail 115
Alaknanda, river (India) 99 Auckland (New Zealand), Cheltenham Lighthouse Reef 228 Preá 239 Whistler 212
Alaska (USA), Sea Kayaking, Prince William Beach 191 rainforests 178–9 Rio de Janeiro 50, 205 The Canadian 94
Sound 238 Australia Belleville (Paris) 315 Río Paraguay 153 Canaima National Park (Venezuela) 174
Alba (Italy), International Truffle Fair Blue Mountains 95, 178 Bellinzona (Switzerland), Tre Castelli 45 Salvador 50–1, 219, 325 Canal Cruising (Amsterdam) 101
274 Canberra 142 Belly-dancing (Istanbul and the Levant) 219 São Paulo 67 Canal du Midi (France) 112
Albi (France), Toulouse-Lautrec Museum Darwin 323 Belo Horizonte (Brazil), Church of St Francis Bregenz (Austria), Bregenzer Festival 269 Canal St-Martin (Paris) 317
275 The Ghan 114 143 Brihadishwara Temple (Thanjavur, India) 13 Canary Islands (Spain)
Aldabra Atoll (Seychelles) 181 Great Barrier Reef 227 Benicassim (Spain) 55 Bristol (England) 325 Lanzarote 274
Aleppo (Syria) 299, 323 Great Ocean Road 89, 113 Bent Pyramid (Dahshur) 12–13 British Columbia (Canada) 212–13, 214, 240 Tenerife 79, 183
cuisine 256 Indian Pacific Railway 95 Beppu (Japan) 169 British Museum (London) 122 Canberra (Australia), Parliament House 142
Ales Stenar (Sweden) 16 Melbourne 63, 256 Berlin (Germany) British Virgin Islands, Jost Van Dyke Island Cannes (France)
Alexandria (Egypt) 286 Mount Augustus 150 Berlin Filmmuseum 275 209 Domaine des Collettes 274
Bibliotheca Alexandrina 276, 286 Murujuga 255 Film Festival 263 Brooklyn Botanic Gardens (New York) 290 Film Festival 262
Algeria New South Wales 95, 178 Holocaust Memorial 143 Bruges (Belgium) 307 Canterbury (England), The Pilgrim’s Way 98
Coastal North Africa 89 Northern Territories 149, 241, 274 Pergamonmuseum 276 Brunei, Borneo Jungle 179 canyoning 238
Timgad 26 Perth 188–9 Reichstag 142 Brunelleschi, Filippo 123 canyons 158–9, 180, 181, 182, 183
Allagash river (Maine) 153 Queensland 73, 277 Bernadette, St 98 Brussels (Belgium) Cape Cod (USA), Coast Guard Beach 202
Alleppey (Kerala) 157 Sydney 66–7, 101, 132, 236, 318–21 Bestival (Isle of Wight) 74 The Atomium 143 Cape Horn (Chile) 160
Almería (Spain), Playa de Cabo de Gata 207 Tasmania 111, 203, 238 Bhutan Centre Belge de la Bande Desinée 277 Cape May (New Jersey) 208
The Alps 91, 94, 97, 115 Uluru 149 Chomolhari Trek 91 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Cape Town (South Africa)
Amager Beach Park (Copenhagen) 190 Victoria 89, 113 Paro Tsechu 77 Belgique 274 Blue Train 112
Amalfi Coast (Italy) 110 Western Australia 112, 150, 255 Punakha Domchoe 78 Bill Bryson 7 cuisine 256
Amazon, River 152 Austria Trekking 232–3 Bryce Canyon (Utah) 158–9 deep sea fishing 241
Amazon Theatre (Manaus) 275 Bregenz 269 Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alexandria) 276, Buckskin Gulch (Utah) 180 International Jazz Festival 68
Amber Room, Catherine Palace Graz 324 286 Budapest (Hungary) 312 Llandudno Beach 207
(St Petersburg) 275 Landshaag 235 Big Buddha Beach (Ko Samui) 206 Buena Vista Park (San Francisco) 311 Muizenberg Beach 191
Amiens (France), Notre-Dame d’Amiens Vienna 141 Bilbao (Spain), Guggenheim 134 Buenos Aires (Argentina) Rovos Rail 94
140–1 Avenida 9 de Julio (Buenos Aires) 129 Binche (Belgium), Carnival 76 Avenida 9 de Julio 129 Cape Winelands (South Africa) 248
amphitheatres 20–3 Avignon (France) 136 Bird’s Nest Stadium (Beijing) 145 Puente de la Mujer 142 Capitoline Museums (Rome) 258–9
Amsterdam (Netherlands) 280 Avignon Festival 64 Birdsville Races (Australia) 73 tango 218 Capo Rosso (Corsica) 110
canal cruising 101 Axum (Ethiopia) 46 Bled, Lake (Slovenia) 156 Bukhara (Uzbekistan) Capoeira (Brazil) 240
Gay Pride 67 Ayres Rock see Uluru Blue Corner (Palau) 229 The Ark 46 Cappadocia (Turkey) 230–1, 239
Van Gogh Museum 251 Ayutthaya (Thailand) 38 Blue Lagoon (Iceland) 180 Madrassah Mir-i-Arab 143 carambole pool (Netherlands) 240
Anapji (Gyeongju) 293 Azaleas, Kyushu (Japan) 183 Blue Mountains (Australia) 95, 178 Bulgaria, Sozopol 323 Carcassonne (France) 307
Andalucía (Spain) 266 Azay-le-Rideau, Château d’ (France) 47 Blue Train (South Africa) 112 Bulguksa (Gyeongju) 293 Cargèse (Corsica) 110
Andaman Islands (India), Radhanagar Beach Azerbaijan, Gobustan 254 boat trips 100–1, 112–15, 297, 301 Bumbershoot (Seattle) 74–5 Carl Hammer Gallery (Chicago) 276
(Havelock Island) 201 The Boathouse (Laugharne) 274 Bun Bang Fai (Vientiane) 78 Carnac (France) 16
Anderson Valley Vineyards (California) 276 B Bohinj, Lake (Slovenia) 156 Bungan Beach (Sydney) 320 carnivals 50–3, 76, 78–9
The Andes 82–3, 95, 249 Baan Mai (Koh Lone) 206 Boi-Bumba (Parintins) 77 Burgos (Spain), Catedral de Santa Maria 141 Carpenter’s Caves (Ellora, India) 31
Angel Falls (Venezuela) 174 Bad Art, Museum of (Boston) 275 Bolivia Burgundy (France) 267 Carpet Museum (Tehran) 275
Angkor (Cambodia) 36 Badrinath (India) 99 Apolobamba Road 231 Wine Festival 276 Cartagena (Colombia), Hay Festival 64
Anguilla, Shoal Bay 187 The Bahamas, Pink Sands Apolobamba Trek 82–3 Burning Man (Nevada) 78 Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 143
Annapurna (Nepal) 90–1 (Eleuthera) 187 Che Guevara Trail 84 Bushwalking (Australia) 238 Casa de Moneda (Potosí) 287
Annunciation Cathedral (Kazan) 144 Baikal, Lake (Siberia) 181 Choro Trail 240 Busua (Ghana) 196 Casa da Musica (Porto) 135
Anse La Roche (Grenada) 206 Baja California (Mexico) 113 Isla del Sol 32–3 Bwindi Impenetrable National Park Cascade Loop Drive (Washington State) 114
Anse Source d’Argent (La Digue) 206 Bako National Park (Sarawak) 180 Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco (Uganda) 163 Castello Walk (Venice) 303
Antalya PGA Sultan Golf Course (Turkey) Balaton, Lake (Hungary) 156 National Park 180 Byzantine churches (Ravenna) 119 castles and fortifications 37, 42–3, 44, 45,
225 Bamako (Mali), National Museum of Mali Llama Trek 113 Byzantine Empire 118–19 46, 136, 137, 139, 144, 145, 286, 320
Antarctica 183 275 Oruro Carnival 76 Castro and Noe Valley (San Francisco) 309
Antarctic icebreaker voyage 112 Band-e Amir Lakes (Afghanistan) 157 Potosí 287 C Cathedral Cove (New Zealand) 206
Ice Marathon 217 Banda Islands (Indonesia) 229 Salar de Uyuni 84–5 Cadiz (Spain), Carnival 76 cathedrals 97, 98, 105, 123, 136, 140–1, 143,
Antwerp (Belgium) 281 Bandelier National Monument Sol de Mañana 169 Caesarea Maritima (Israel) 138 144, 305, 310, 313
Anuradhapura (Sri Lanka) 38 (New Mexico) 31 Sucre 324 Cairo (Egypt) 10, 286 Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart
Apennines (Italy) 97 Bangaram Beach (Lakshadweep Islands) Tiwanaku 34–5 Calatrava, Santiago 128, 135, 142 (Guangzhou) 103
Apolobamba Road (Bolivia) 231 206 Bologna (Italy) 306 California (USA) Causeway Bay–Western Tram (Hong Kong)
Apolobamba Trek (Bolivia) 82–3 Bangkok (Thailand), E&O Express 113 Bonampak (Chiapas, Mexico) 41 Anderson Valley Vineyards 276 297
Aqaba, Gulf of (Jordan) 228 Barbados Bondi Beach (Sydney) 236 Ennis House 143 caves 31, 39, 44–5, 180–1, 252, 254–5, 277,
Aquarius, Club (Zagreb) 55 Crop Over 78 Bonfire Night (Lewes) 76 Half Dome 150 319
aqueducts 136–9 Soup Bowl 236–7 Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival Napa Valley 249 caving 239
Arabuko-Sokoke National Park (Kenya) 195 Barcelona (Spain), Casa Batlló 143 (Tennessee) 74 Point Reyes National Seashore 88 Cavo Paradiso (Mykonos) 55
Arambol Beach (Goa) 206 Barleycove Beach (Cork) 206 Bora Bora, Matira Beach 208 San Diego 208 Centre Belge de la Bande Desinée (Brussels)
Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 129 Basel (Switzerland), Carnival 79 Boracay (Philippines), White Beach 206 Sea Ranch Chapel (Gualala) 145 277
Arc-et-Senansw (France), Saline Royale 145 Basilica Cistern (Istanbul) 47 Borneo West Coast Swing 219 Cerro de la Bufa (Zacatecas) 313
Arches National Park (Utah) 180 Basilica of St Francis (Assisi) 99 Jungle 179 Yosemite Falls 175 Cerro Rico (Potosí) 287
Ardèche, River (France) 240 Basilica of St Peter (Rome) 96, 97, 121 Mount Kinabalu (Sabah) 223 see also Los Angeles; San Diego; César Manrique Foundation (Lanzarote) 274
Åre (Sweden) 215 Basilica San Marco (Venice) 118, 127 Rainforest World Music Festival San Francisco Český Krumlov (Czech Republic) 306
Arena di Verona (Italy) 23 Bath (England) 312 (Sarawak) 56 Calle Occho Latino Festival (Miami) 77 Cestius, Pyramid of (Rome) 13
Arènes de Nîmes (Nîmes) 23 Batha Museum (Fez) 298 Borobudur (Java) 36–7 Calvi (Corsica) 110 Cévennes (France), Stevenson Trail 113
329
INDE X
Champs-Elysées (Paris) 129 Colorado (USA) (cont.) Delhi (India) 93, 106 England (cont.) France (cont.)
Charlemagne 143 trail 401 231 Qutb Minar 127 South Downs Way 114 Haute Route (Alps) 91, 115
Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of Columbia Gorge (Oregon) 248 Denmark Southwold (Suffolk) 78 Lascaux 252
American Art (Florida) 277 Como, Lake (Italy) 155 Copenhagen 68, 190 Three Choirs Festival 275 Limoux 78
châteaux see castles and fortifications Concordia (Pakistan) 91 fishing 238 Wainwright’s Coast-to-Coast Walk 112 Loire Valley 45, 47, 239
Che Guevara Trail (Bolivia) 84 Convento y Museo de Santa Teresa (Potosí) Roskilde 74 WOMAD (Wiltshire) 57 Lourdes 98
Che Guevara’s Motorcycle Route 287 Skagen 183 Ennis House (California) 143 Lyon 256–7
(South America) 113 Cook Islands Dennis Severs’ House (London) 276 Ephesus (Turkey) 46 Menton 79
Chelly, Canyon de (Arizona) 159 Aitutaki 206 Desert, Festival in the (Mali) 56 Epidavros Theatre (Greece) 274 Millau Bridge (Tarn Valley) 144
Chelsea’s Galleries (New York) 273 Raratonga 207 Dessau (Germany), Bauhaus 274 Erg Chebbi (Morocco) 181 Montpellier 139
Cheltenham Beach (Auckland) 191 The Coorg (Karnataka) 233 Dettifoss Falls (Iceland) 174 Erum (Oman) 44 Nancy 145, 325
Chengde (China) Copa (Peru) 222 The Devil’s Nose (El Nariz del Diablo) Esala Perahera (Sri Lanka) 60–1 Nantes 76
mountain resort 44 Copacabana (Rio de Janeiro) 205 (Equador) 95 Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay Nîmes 23, 136
Puning Temple 130 Copán (Honduras) 41 Devils Tower (Wyoming) 148–9 (Singapore) 58, 142 Noirmoutier 207
Cherry Blossoms (Japan) 166–7 Copenhagen (Denmark) Dhow Countries Festival (Stone Town) 78 Essaouira (Morocco) 208 Paris 129, 140, 216–17, 244–7, 257, 314–
Cheyenne Frontier Days (Wyoming) 78 Amager Beach Park 190 Discovery Bay (Jamaica), Pushcart Derby 79 Gnawa and World Music Festival 56–7 17
Chiang Mai (Thailand), Trekking 232 Jazz Festival 68 diving and snorkelling 226–9, 241 Estación Constitución (Buenos Aires) 129 Pont du Gard 136
Chicago (USA) Copper Canyon (Mexico) 159 Djenné (Mali), Great Mosque 142 Estonia, Tartu 322 River Ardèche 240
architecture 128 coral reefs 181, 182, 195, 196, 200, 206, 208, Docklands, Museum in (London) 284 Ethiopia River Seine 101
Carl Hammer Gallery 276 226–9, 241 dog sledding (Finland) 238 Addis Ababa 324 Ronchamp 144
Lollapalooza 75 Cordillera Blanca (Peru) 85 Dog’s Bay (County Galway) 203 Axum 46 Sainte Foy 215
Chicama, La Libertad 237 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru) 91 Doha (Qatar), Museum of Islamic Art 275 Lalibela 28–9 St-Paul-de-Vence 277
Chichén Itzá (Mexico) 40 Cork (Ireland) 322 Dolomites (Italy) 239 Etruscan Museum, Villa Giulia (Rome) 261 Tours 324
Chichicastenango (Guatemala), Barleycove Beach 206 Domaine des Collettes (Cannes) 274 Eugéne Delacroix, Musée National (Paris) Francis of Assisi, St 99
Fiesta de Santo Tomas 77 Coronado Beach (San Diego) 208 Dome Cathedral (Rīga) 305 244, 247 Frankincense Trail (Oman) 112
Chile Corsica (France), Northwest Coast 110–11 Dome of the Rock (Jerusalem) 123 Evangeline Trail (Nova Scotia) 88 Fred and Ginger Building (Prague) 143
Che Guevara’s Motorcycle Route 113 Cortez, Bay of (Mexico) 113 domes 120–3 Eventail, Musée del’ (Paris) 317 Freedom Trail (South Africa) 231
Chilean Lakes 154–5 Costa Rica Dominican Republic Everest Base Camp (Nepal) 90 Freud Museum (London) 283
Santiago 276 Manzanillo Beach 199 Cueva de la Maravillas 255 Everest Marathon (Nepal) 217
Torres del Paine 85, 150 Montezuma Beach 199 Cuevas de Pomier 44 G
Valle de la Luna 180 Playa Ostional 182 merengue 219 F G-Land, Bay of Grajagan (East Java) 237
China rainforests 176 Don Daeng Island (Laos) 208 Fado Museum (Lisbon) 277 Gabon, Lopé National Park 165
Beijing 46, 130, 131, 145, 241 Costa Smeralda (Sardinia) 111 Douro Valley (Portugal) 267 Fallingwater (Pennsylvania) 142 Gaillard, Château (France) 43
Beijing/Shanghai–Lhasa Train 112 Cotopaxi (Ecuador) 223 wine cruise 114 Fantasy Fest (Key West, USA) 67 Gal Vihara Buddhas (Polonnaruwa) 44
Chengde 44, 130 Cottesloe Beach (Perth) 188–9 Drâa Valley Drive (Morocco) 114 Fatehpur Sikri (India) 93 Galapagos Islands (Ecuador) 161
Chongqing 104 Cozumel (Mexico) 204 Drakensberg Mountains (South Africa) 167, Fawkes, Guy 76 Galérie Véro-Dodat (Paris) 317
Guangzhou 103 Crazy Horse Memorial (South Dakota) 250 175, 252–3 Fernando de Noronha (Brazil) 161 Galérie Vivienne (Paris) 317
Guizhou 105 Cresswell Crags (Nottinghamshire) 254 Dubai, Al-Mamzar Beach 190 festivals 48–79, 262–3, 268–9, 274, 321 Galicia (Spain), Las Islas Cies 209
Hangzhou 104 Crete (Greece) Duomo (Florence) 123 see also individual festival by name Galla Placida Mausoleum (Ravenna) 46
Hennan Province 31 Samaria Gorge 182 Durban (South Africa) 94 Fetes de Masques (Pays Dogon) 76 Galleria Borghese (Rome) 260
Hong Kong 294–7 spring flowers 167 Düsseldorf (Germany), Neue Zollhof 134 Fez (Morocco) 298–9 Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 260
Huang Ho 153 Cricket (Trobriand Islands) 240 World Sacred Music Festival 56, 298 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica (Rome) 260
Lijiang 322 Croatia E Fiesta de Santo Tomas (Chichicastenango) Gambia, Wassu Stone Circles 17
Shanghai 102, 112 islands 170–1 E&O Express (Bangkog to Singapore) 113 77 Ganges, river (India) 99, 106, 108
Sichuan 180, 183 Luka Korculanska 209 Easter (Kalymnos) 77 Figueres (Spain), Dalí Theatre-Museum 275 Gangotri (India) 108
Suzhou 104, 126 Motovun Film Festival 263 Eau, Château d’ (Montpellier) 139 Fiji, Kuata Island 207 Garavicchio (Italy), Giardino dei Tarocchi
Taipei 144 Plitvice Lakes 156 Ecuador film festivals 262–3 277
Tianjin 105 Pula 20–1 Cotopaxi 223 Fingal’s Cave (Scotland) 181 Garda, Lake (Italy) 155
Xiahe 46 Split 322 Galapagos Islands 161 Finger Lakes (New York State) 183 Garganta del Diablo (Argentina) 173
Yangtze River Cruise 115 Zagreb 55 Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest 176–7 Finland Garma Festival (Australia) 274
Zhengding 131 Crop Over (Barbados) 78 Salinas (Santa Elena Province) 204 dog sledding 238 gastronomy 256–7, 274, 285, 291, 295, 303,
Zoucheng 131 cruising 100–1, 112–15 Edinburgh (Scotland) Helsinki 322 311
Chinese New Year 58, 77, 321 the Crusades 42–3 Fringe Festival 63 Kerimaeki 141 Gaudí, Antoni 143
Chittorgarh (India) 93 Crystal Cathedral, Los Angeles 144 golf 241 Sonkajärvi 78 Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras (Sydney) 66–7,
Cholula (Mexico) 12 Cuba International Festival 269 Fish River Canyon (Namibia) 94, 180 321
Chomolhari Trek (Bhutan) 91 Havana 218–19 Edmonton (Canada) 94 fishing 238, 241 Gay Pride, Amsterdam, São Paulo 67
Chongqing (China) 104 Remedios 79 Edzná (Mexico) 41 fjörds 160 Gdańsk (Poland) 307
Choro Trail (Bolivia) 240 Santiago 322 Egypt Fleischmann Planetarium and Science Sopot Beach 203
Christmas Island (Indian Ocean) 226–7 cuevas see caves Abydos 44 Center (Reno) 292 Gedi (Kenya) 195
Christmas Market (Prague) 76 cuisine 256–7 Alexandria 276, 286 floral landscapes 166–7, 182 Geffrye Museum (London) 283
churches 28–9, 47, 99, 103, 119, 141, 143, Curitiba (Brazil), Museu Oscar Niemeyer 145 Cairo 286 Florence (Italy) Gehry, Frank 132, 134, 143
144, 145, 280, 287, 310, 312 Curonian Spit (Lithuania) 180 Coastal North Africa 89 Duomo 123 Georgia (USA)
Cinque Terre (Italy) 111 Curragh Racecourse (Ireland) 241 Hatshepsut Temple 46 Giotto’s Bell Tower 127 Savannah 324
Cirio de Nazare (Belém) 61 Curzon Trail (Uttaranchal) 112 Lake Nasser 100–1 Florida (USA) Stone Mountain 151
Citadelle Laferriere (Haiti) 44 Cusco (Peru) 71, 287 Mount Sinai 119 Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of geothermal sites 168–9, 180, 181
Citrus Festival (Menton) 79 Cutty Sark (London) 284 Nile cruise 100 American Art 277 Germany
Città di Castello (Italy) 99, 265 The Cyclades (Greece) 241 Pyramids 10, 12–13 Grayton Beach 208 Aachen 143
City Golf Club (Hong Kong) 297 cycling 239 see also mountain-biking Sinai Desert 233 Miami Beach 188 Bavaria 266
Ciudad Perdida (Colombia) 34 Cyprus Wadi el-Hitan 182 South Beach, Miami 204 Berlin 142, 143, 263, 275, 276
classical music 63, 64–5, 76, 132–3, 135, Kourion 26 Wadi Sora 277 folk music 56, 74, 76 Dessau 274
268–9 Salamis 47 Eid (Damascus) 79 Folklife Festival (Seattle) 74 Düsseldorf 134
cliff dwellings 30–1 see also North Cyprus Eisenman, Peter 143 La Folle Journée de Nantes (Nantes) 76 Goseck 16
Cliff House (San Francisco) 310 Cyrene (Libya) 19 The Eisteddfod (Wales) 65 Fondation Marguerite et Aimé Maeght Heidelberg 324
climbing 239 Czech Republic El Caracol (Belize) 46 (St-Paul-de-Vence) 277 Love Parade 66
see also trekking Český Krumlov 306 El Djem (Tunisia) 22 Font-de-Gaume (France) 255 Trier 22
club scene 54–5 Prague 76, 143, 305 elephant polo (Nepal) 241 Formula One 240 geysers 168–9
CN Tower (Toronto) 143 Eleuthera (The Bahamas), Pink Sands 187 fortresses see castles and fortifications The Ghan (Australia) 114
Coast Guard Beach (Cape Cod) 202 D Emerald Bay (Pangkor Laut) 208 Foster, Sir Norman 135, 142, 144 Ghana, Busua 196
Coastal Defence Museum (Hong Kong) 296 Dafo Temple (Zhengding) 131 Empire State Building (New York) 128 France Ghent (Belgium) 281
Coastal North Africa 89 Daily News Building (New York) 142 Empúries (Spain) 19 Aix-en-Provence 269, 325 The Gherkin (30 St Mary Axe) (London) 135
Cochin, (India) 323 Dalí Theatre-Museum (Figueres) 275 England Albi 275 Giardino dei Tarocchi (Garavicchio) 277
Cockatoo Island (Sydney) 320 Damascus (Syria) Bath 312 Amiens 140–1 Gibb River Road Drive (Western Australia)
Cognacq-Jay, Musée (Paris) 244, 247 Eid 79 Bristol 325 Arc-et-Senans 145 112
Col du Grand St-Bernard (Switzerland/Italy) Omayyad Mosque 144 Cresswell Crags (Nottinghamshire) 254 Avignon 64 Gila National Park (New Mexico) 30
97 Danang (Vietnam), Non Nuoc Beach 190 Daymer Bay (Cornwall) 208 Burgundy 267, 276 Gion Matsuri (Kyoto) 79
Colca Canyon (Peru) 180 dance 218–19 Holy Island (Northumberland) 207 Canal du Midi 112 Giotto Frescoes, Capella degli Scrovegni
Colosseum (Rome) 20 Dank Street Festival (Sydney) 321 Isle of Wight 74 Cannes 262, 274 (Padua) 274
Colombia Darwin (Australia) 323 Lewes (Sussex) 76 Carcassonne 307 Giotto’s Bell Tower (Florence) 127
Cartagena 64 Dahshur, Pyramids of (Egypt) 12–13 London 42, 122, 135, 216, 268, 274, 276, Carnac 16 Giurgola, Romaldo 142
Ciudad Perdida 34 Daymer Bay (England) 208 277, 282–5 Cévennes 113 Giza, Pyramids of (Egypt) 10
Tayrona 209 Dead Rat Ball (Ostend) 77 Maiden Castle (Dorset) 44 Corsica 110–11 Glacier Express (Switzerland) 94
Colorado (USA) Dee Why Beach (Sydney) 320 Norfolk Broads 101 Eure 43 Glacier National Park (Montana) 181
Mesa Verde National Park 30 Deitch Projects (New York) 272 The Pilgrim’s Way 98 Font-de-Gaume 255 Glacier Trail (Wyoming) 241
San Juan Skyway Drive 115 Delft (Netherlands) 280–1 Scarborough (North Yorkshire) 235 Gorges du Verdon (Provence) 181 Glendalough (Ireland) 45
330
INDE X
Glide Memorial United Methodist Church Haro Wine Battle (Spain) 59 India (cont.) Ivrea Orange Festival Key West (USA), Fantasy Fest 67
(San Francisco) 310 Harris, Isle of (Scotland) 202–3 Leh 47 (Italy) 76 Khajuraho (India) 106
glow-worm displays, Waitomo Caves Hatshepsut Temple (Egypt) 46 Madurai 109 Ixtapa (Mexico) 86 Khartoum (Sudan) 10
(New Zealand) 181 Haute Route (France/Switzerland) 91, 115 Mamallapuram 45 Khyber Pass Steam Safari (Pakistan) 114
Gnawa and World Music Festival (Essaouira) Havana (Cuba), Salsa 218–19 Orchha 109 J Kibale Forest National Park (Uganda) 163
56–7 Hawai‘i (USA) Palace on Wheels 92–3 Jacquemart-André, Musée (Paris) 244, 246 Kicking Horse (Canada) 212–13
Goa (India) 70, 206 Hanalei Bay (Kaua‘i) 209 Puri 61 Jai Alai (Philippes) 239 Kilimanjaro, Mount (Kenya/Tanzania) 220
Gobustan (Azerbaijan) 254 Hapuna Beach (Big Island) 193 Rajasthan 56, 76, 92–3 Jaipur (India) kitesurfing 239
Gocta Falls (Peru) 181 Hulopo‘e Beach (Lāna‘i) 192–3 Sanchi 123 Jantar Mantar Observatory 45 Kizhi (Russia), Church of the Transfiguration
Golden Beach (North Cyprus) 201 Kailua Beach (O‘ahu) 193 Shekhawati 109 Palace on Wheels 92, 93 47
Golden Gate Park (San Francisco) 310 Kē‘ē Beach (Kaua‘i) 193 Shimla 324 Jaisalmer (India) 93 kloofing (South Africa) 238
Golden Hinde (London) 284 Mauna Loa (Big Island) 222 Shravanabelagola 142 Jamaica, Pushcart Derby (Discovery Bay) 79 Ko Pha Ngan (Thailand) 70
Golden Road to Samarkand (Uzbekistan) Napili Bay (Maui) 193 Thanjavur 13 Jantar Mantar Observatory (Jaipur) 45 Ko Phi Phi (Thailand) 200
115 Waikīkī (Big Island) 192 Udaipur 325 Japan Ko Samui (Thailand), Big Buddha Beach 206
Golden Shears (Masterton) 78 Waimea Canyon (Kaua’i) 159 Uttaranchal 112 Beppu 169 Ko Tarutao (Thailand) 201
Golf 224-5, 241 Hay Festival (Cartagena) 64 Indian Ocean 227 cherry blossoms 166–7 Kodachrome Basin State Park (Utah) 181
Gomateshwara Statue (Shravanabelagola) Heaven, Temple of (Beijing) 130 Indian Pacific Railway Gyeongju 293 Koh Lone (Thailand), Baan Mai 206
142 Heddal Stavkirke (Norway) 142 (Australia) 95 Hiroshima Peace Center 144 Kolkata (Calcutta) (India) 108
Gordon-Frishman beaches (Tel Aviv) 191 Heidelberg (Germany) 324 Indonesia Kanazawa 325 Kom es-Shoqafa Catacombs (Alexandria)
Göreme National Park (Turkey) 230 Helsinki (Finland) 322 Banda Islands 229 Kyoto 79, 293 286
Gorges du Verdon (France) 181 henges 16–17 Borneo Jungle 179 Kyushu azaleas 183 Kong Chow Temple (San Francisco) 310
Gower Peninsula (Wales) 209 Herceg Novi (Montenegro), Mimosa Festival Borobudur (Java) 36–7 Nara 39 Koolhaus, Rem 135
Grace Bay (Providenciales) 186–7 78 Ingonish Beach (Canada) 207 Shigaraki 276 Kourion (Cyprus) 26
Grace Cathedral (San Francisco) 310 Herculaneum (Italy) 24–5 International Festival of Arts & Ideas Shiretoko Peninsula 183 Koutoubia Minaret (Marrakesh) 126
Grand Canyon (Arizona) 158 Herod the Great 138 (New Haven) 65 Jasper (Canada) 94 Krak des Chevaliers (Syria) 42–3
Grand Cayman, Seven Mile Beach 187 Highgate Cemetery (London) 284 Iqalit (Canada), Toonik Tyme 77 Java Kremlin (Kazan) 144
Grand Palais (Paris) 129 hiking see trekking Iran Borubudur 36–7 Kremlin (Veliky Novgorod) 145
Grand Prix Himalayas 90–1, 108, 112, 167, 217, 232–3 Isfahan 120–1, 325 G-Land, Bay of Grajagan 237 Kristal Sea (Mamaia) 54
Macau 235 Hindu Kush (Afghanistan) 157 Persepolis 44 jazz 68–9 Kröller-Müller Museum (Netherlands) 251
Singapore 240 Hiroshima Peace Center (Japan) 144 Shiraz 323 Jebel Acacus (Libya) 254 Kruger National Park (South Africa) 163
Grand Union Canal (London) 284 Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve Tehran 275 Jeffreys Bay (South Africa) 237 Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), Islamic Art
Grand View Hill (San Francisco) 311 (South Africa) 164 Ireland Jenney, William le Baron 128 Museum Malaysia (IAMM) 277
Grayton Beach (Florida) 208 Holocaust Memorial (Berlin) 143 Beara Peninsula 180 Jenolan Caves (Australia) 319 Kuata Island (Fiji) 207
Graz (Austria) 324 Holy Island (England) 207 Cork 206, 322 Jerash (Jordan) 45 Kul Sharif Mosque (Kazan) 144
Great Barrier Reef (Australia) 227 Honduras, Copán 41 Curragh Races 241 Jerusalem (Israel) Kur-ring-gai Chase National Park (Australia)
Great Karoo (South Africa) 94 Hong Kong (China) 294–7 Dog’s Bay (County Galway) 203 Dome of the Rock 123 319
Great Mosque of Djenné (Mali) 142 Chinese New Year 58 Glendalough 45 Oud Festival 79 Kuwait Towers 145
Great Ocean Road (Australia) 89, 113 Hong Kong Museum of Art 296 Skellig Michael (Kerry) 47 Jiuzhai Gou Lakes (Sichuan) 180 Kyoto (Japan) 293
Great Pyramid of Cholula (Mexico) 12 Hong Kong Planning & Infrastructure Skerries 235 Joatinga Beach (Brazil) 209 Gion Matsuri 79
Great Rift Valley 163, 165 Exhibition Gallery 296 Isfahan (Iran) 325 Jodphur (India) Kyrgyzstan, horse-riding 240
Great Stupa of Sanchi (India) 123 Hong Kong–Macau Ferry 297 Imam Mosque 120–1 Palace on Wheels 93 Kyushu (Japan), azaleas 183
Great Wall of China 102 horse races 72–3, 241 iSimangaliso Wetland Park Rajasthan International Folk Music
Greece horse-riding 114, 115, 239, 240 (South Africa) 196 Festival 56 L
Athens 18, 217 Horseback Cattle Drive (Patagonia) 114 Isla del Sol (Bolivia) 32–3 Jôetsu (Japan) 166–7 La Chascona (Santiago) 276
Crete 167, 182 hot air ballooning 239 Islamic Art Museum (Doha) 275 Jog Falls (India) 174 La Digue (Seychelles), Anse Source d’Argent
Cyclades 241 Hôtel Carnavalet (Paris) 316 Islamic Art Museum Malaysia (IAMM) John the Baptist 140 206
Epidavros theater 274 Hôtel Guénégaud (Paris) 316 (Kuala Lumpur) 277 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 131 La Libertad (Chicama) 237
Greek Islands 170 Hôtel de Retz (Paris) 316 Las Islas Cies (Galicia) 209 Jordan La Mania (Mamaia) 54–5
Kalymnos 77 Hôtel de Soubise (Paris) 316 Isle of Man (UK), TT Races 234 Gulf of Aqaba 228 Labrang Monastery (Xiahe) 46
Meteoras monasteries 45 Hôtel de Sully (Paris) 316 Isle of Wight (England), Jerash 45 lakes 100–1, 154–7, 180, 183
Mílos 209 Huang Ho (China) 153 Bestival 74 Karak Castle 43 see also lakes by name
Mount Athos 119 Huayna Picchu (Peru) 35 Israel Petra 28 Lakshadweep Islands (India), Bangaram
Mykonos 55 Hue (Vietnam) 323 Caesarea Maritima 138 Jost Van Dyke Island (British Virgin Islands) Beach 206
Rhodes 19 Hulopo‘e Beach (Hawai‘i) 192–3 Jerusalem 79, 123 207 Lalibela (Ethiopia) 28–9
Santorini 26 Hungary Tel Aviv 191 Lama Temple (Beijing) 131
Thessaloniki 323 Aggtelek Caves 180 Istanbul (Turkey) K Lamanai (Belize) 41
Greeks, Ancient 18–19, 26, 45, 46, 47 Budapest 312 Basilica Cistern 47 Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco National Park Lamu Island (Kenya), Shela Beach 197
Greenland, Northern Lights 182 Lake Balaton 156 belly-dancing 219 (Bolivia) 180 Lāna‘i (Hawai‘i) 192–3
Grenada Tokaj Wine Region 248 Haghia Sophia 118–19 Kaieteur Falls (Guyana) 175 Landmannalaugar (Iceland) 168–9
Anse La Roche 206 Huqiu Tower (Suzhou) 126 Süleymaniye Mosque 122 Kailua Beach (Hawai‘i) 193 Landshaag (Austria) 235
Morne Rouge (St. George’s) 208 Hvar (Croatia) 170, 171 Italian Festival (Sydney) 321 Kalgoorie (Australia) 95 Lanzarote (Canary Islands), César Manrique
Groningen (Netherlands) 322 Italy Kalibo (Philippines) 52–3 Foundation 274
Gualala (California), Sea Ranch Chapel 145 I Alba (Piedmont) 274 Kalymnos (Greece), Easter 77 Laos
Gualeguaychu (Argentina), Carnival 79 Ibiza (Spain) 54 Amalfi Coast 110 Kamchatka (Russia) 169, 215 Don Daeng Island 208
Guangzhou (China) 103 Ice Marathon (Antarctica) 217 Asti 72–3 Kamchatka Peninsula Trek 112 Luang Prabang 323
Guatemala Icefields Parkway Drive (Canada) 112 Bologna 306 Kamloops (Canada) 94 Mekong River 153
Chichicastenango 77 Iceland 168–9 Cinque Terre (Liguria) 111 Kanazawa (Japan) 325 Pak Ou Caves 39
Pan-American Highway 89 Blue Lagoon 180 Dolomites 239 Kandy (Sri Lanka) 60 Vientiane 325
Tikal 40–1 Dettifoss Falls 174 Florence 123, 127 Karak Castle (Jordan) 43 Xieng Khouang 47
Volcano Climbing 241 Golfing in, 224-5 Garavicchio 277 Karakoram Range (Pakistan) 91 Las Pozas (Xilitla) 276
Guaymas (Mexico) 86 Iguaçu Falls (Argentina/Brazil) 172–3 Herculaneum 24–5 Karnali River (Nepal) 238 Las Vegas (Nevada) 292
Gubbio (Italy) 264–5 Ihuru (Maldives) 200–1 Italian Lakes 155 Karnataka (India), The Coorg 233 Lascaux (France) 252
Guevara, Ernesto Che 84, 113 Ilha Grande (Brazil), Lopes Mendez 207 Ivrea 76 Karoo National Park (South Africa) 88 Latitude (Southwold) 78
Guggenheim (Bilbao) 134 Imam Mosque (Isfahan) 120–1 Lecce 323 Kaua‘i (Hawai‘i) 159, 193, 209 Latvia, Rīga 304–5
Guggenheim Foundation (Venice) 275 Ina Coolbrith Park (San Francisco) 310 Naples 24 Kaunos (Turkey) 30 Laugharne (Wales), The Boathouse 274
Guizhou (China) 105 Inca civilization 32–3, 34–5, 45, 82–3, 287 Ostia Antica 261 kayaking 113, 238, 240 Lawn Bowls (UK) 241
Gullfoss waterfall (Iceland) 168 Inca Trail (Peru) 82 Padua 274 Kazan (Russia), Kremlin 144 Leaning Tower of Pisa (Italy) 125
Guyana, Kaieteur Falls 175 India Paestum (Campania) 45 Kazantip Festival (Popovka) 55 Leaning Tower of Teluk Intan (Malaysia) 126
Gwaii Haanas National Park (Canada) 240 Andaman Islands 201 Pisa 125 Kaziranga National Park (India) 108 Lebanon, Beaufort Castle (Nabatieh) 43
Gyeongju (Japan) 293 Cochin 323 Pompeii 24 Keats-Shelley House (Rome) 276 Lecce (Italy) 323
Darjeeling Himalaya Railway 113 Puglia 267 Kē‘ē Beach (Hawai‘i) 193 Lee-Chin, Michael 134
H Delhi 127 Ravenna 46, 119 Kenya Leh (India), Thiske Monastery 47
Haghia Sophia (Istanbul) 118–19 Ellora 31 Rome 13, 20, 121, 258–61, 276 Lamu Island 197 Leptis Magna (Libya) 22, 45, 89
The Hague (Den Haag) (Netherlands) 281 Gangotri 108 San Gimignano 124–5 Masai Mara 239 Les Calanches (Corsica) 110
Haight-Ashbury (San Francisco) 309 Goa 70, 206 Sardinia 46, 73, 111, 209 Mombassa 195 The Levant, belly-dancing 219
Haiti, Citadelle Laferriere 44 Hampi 39 Sicily 18–19 Mount Kilimanjaro 220 Lewes (England), Bonfire Night 76
Half Dome (California) 150 Jaipur 45 Siena 72, 324 Samburu National Reserve 164 Lhasa (Tibet)
Halloween Parade (New York) 67 Jodphur 56 Spoleto 136, 268–9 Turtle Bay 194–5 Beijing/Shanghai–Lhasa Train 112
Ha Long Bay (Vietnam) 112 Jog Falls 174 Tuscany 265 Keoladeo Ghana National Park (India) 93 Jokhang Temple 131
Hampi (India) 39 Karnataka 233 Umbria 264–5 Kerala (India) Potala Palace 45
Hanalei Bay (Hawai‘i) 209 Kaziranga National Park 108 Urbino 47 lakes and backwaters 157 Libeskind, Daniel 134
Hangzhou (China) 104 Kerala 77, 157 Venice 118, 127, 263, 300–3 Onam 77 Libya
Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong Kong) 297 Kolkata (Calcutta) 108 Verona 23 Kerimaeki (Finland) 141 Coastal North Africa 89
Hapuna Beach (Hawai‘i) 193 Lakshadweep Islands 206 Via Francigena 96–7 Kerimaen Kirkko (Kerimaeki) 141 Cyrene 19
331
INDE X
Libya (cont.) Marrakech (Morocco) 298 Mont Blanc’s Haute Route (France/ Naples (Italy) 24 Notre-Dame d’Amiens 140–1
Jebel Acacus 254 Koutoubia Minaret 126 Switzerland) 91, 115 Naqa (Sudan) 10–11 Notre-Dame du Haut (Ronchamp) 144
Leptis Magna 22, 45, 89 Saadian Tombs 145 Montana (USA), Glacier National Park 181 Nara (Japan) 39 Notre-Dame de Paris 140
Sabratha 198 Villa Majorelle 274 Montenegro Nasser, Lake (Egypt) 100–1 Nova Scotia (Canada) 88
Lighthouse Reef (Belize) 228 Masai Mara (Kenya), horse Safaris 239 Mimosa Festival (Herceg Novi) 78 Natchez Trace Parkway Drive (Mississippi/ Nullabor Desert (Australia) 95
Lijiang (China) 322 Massachusetts (USA), Tanglewood Music Queen’s Beach 206 Tennessee) 114 Nungwi (Zanzibar) 208
Limoux (France), Carnival 78 Festival 269 Montevideo (Uruguay) 325 National Automobile Museum (Reno) 292 Nuraghi (Sardinia) 46
Lincoln Park (San Francisco) 310 Masterton (New Zealand), Golden Shears 78 Montezuma Beach (Costa Rica) 199 National Maritime Museum (London) 284 Nusantara Museum (Delft) 280
Lincoln’s Inn Fields (London) 284 Mata Atlântica (Brazil) 178 Montpellier (France), Aqueduc St-Clement National Museum of Mali (Bamako) 275
Lisbon (Portugal) Matira Beach (Bora Bora) 208 139 Nemrut Dagi (Turkey) 46 O
Águes Livres Aqueduct 139 Maui (Hawai‘i) 193 Montreal (Canada) Neolithic period 16–17, 27 O‘ahu (Hawai‘i) 193
Fado Museum 277 Mauna Loa (Hawai‘i) 222 cuisine 256 Nepal Obelisco (Buenos Aires) 129
Lithuania, Curonian Spit 180 Mayan civilization 40–1, 46, 198 Jazz Festival 68–9 Annapurna 90–1 Ocracoke Island (North Carolina) 203
Ljunghusen Golf Club (Sweden) 225 Mazatlán (Mexico) Montreux (Switzerland) elephant polo 241 Odessa (Ukraine) 324
Llama Trek (Bolivia) 113 Carnival 52 Jazz Festival 69 Everest Base Camp 90 Ofu Beach (American Samoa) 209
Llandudno Beach (Cape Town) 207 Route 15 86 Monument Valley (Utah) 182 Everest Marathon 217 Olinda (Brazil) 53
Lloyd Wright, Frank 142, 143 Mekong river (Cambodia/Vietnam) 113, Moon Festival (Sydney) 321 Karnali River 238 Oman
Locarno (Switzerland), Film Festival 263 153 Morne Rouge (Grenada) 208 Netherlands, the Erum 44
Loire Valley (France) 45, 47, 239 Melanesia, New Caledonia Barrier Reef 182 Morocco Amsterdam 67, 101, 251, 280 Frankincense Trail 112
Lollapalooza (Chicago) 75 Melbourne (Australia) Ait Benhaddou 44 carambole pool 240 Omayyad Mosque (Damascus) 144
London (England) 282–5 cuisine 256 camel-trekking 241 Delft 280–1 Onam (Kerala) 77
British Museum 122 International Arts Festival 63 Coastal North Africa 89 Groningen 322 Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Riga) 305
Dennis Severs’ House 276 Melnikov House (Moscow) 145 Drâa Valley Drive 114 The Hague (Den Haag) 281 Orchha (India) 109
The Gherkin (30 St Mary Axe) 135 Mencius Temple (Zoucheng) 131 Erg Chebbi 181 Kröller-Müller Museum 251 orchids 167, 182
marathon 216 Mendoza (Argentina), wine-tasting 248–9 Essaouira 56–7, 208 Neue Zollhof (Düsseldorf ) 134 Oregon (USA), Columbia Gorge 248
Photographers’ Gallery 274 Menton (France), Citrus Festival 79 Fez 56, 298–9 Nevada Museum of Art (Reno) 292 Orient Express 93
The Proms 268 Mérida (Spain) High Atlas Mountains 233 Nevada (USA) Orinoco river 152–3
Sir John Soane’s Museum 277, 283 Anfiteatro 139 Marathon des Sables 241 Burning Man 78 Orkney Islands (Scotland)
Tower of London 42 Aqueducto de los Milagros 139 Marrakech 126, 145, 274, 297 Las Vegas 292 Ring o’Brodgar 17
Long Reef Beach (Sydney) 320 Meringue, Dominican Republic 219 Sahara camel Caravans 113 Reno 292 Sanday 201
Longmen Caves (China) 31 Merletto, Museo del (Venice) 302 Sidi Ifni 322 New Caledonia Barrier Reef (Melanesia) 182 Skara Brae 27
Lopé National Park (Gabon) 165 Meroe, Pyramids of (Sudan) 10–11 Moscow (Russia) New England’s Fall (USA) 166 Oruro (Bolivia), Carnival 76
Lopes Mendez (Ilha Grande) 207 Mesa Verde National Park (Colorado) 30 Melnikov House 145 New Haven (USA), International Festival of Oscar Niemeyer, Museu (Curitiba) 145
Los Angeles (USA) Meteoras monasteries (Greece) 45 Shukhov Tower 143 Arts and Ideas 65 Osorno (Chile) 155
Garden Grove Church 144 Mexico State Museum of V V Mayakovsky 277 New Jersey (USA), Cape May 208 Ostend (Belgium), Dead Rat Ball 77
Sunset Limited 95 Bay of Cortez 113 mosques 118–19, 120–1, 122, 123, 126, 142, New Mexico (USA) Ostia Antica (Rome) 261
Walt Disney Concert Hall 132 Bonampak 41 144 Bandalier National Monument 31 Oud Festival (Jerusalem) 79
Lourdes (France) 98 Chichén Itzá 40 Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Stari Rio Grande Gorges 182 Overland Track (Australia) 238
Louvre, Musée de (Paris) 244 Copper Canyon 159 Most 47 Santa Fe 323 Oxwich Bay (Wales) 209
Lower Franconia (Bavaria) 266 Cozumel 204 motor racing 240 Taos 325
Luang Prabang (Laos) 323 Edzná 41 motorcycle racing 234–5 New Museum (New York) 272 P
Luangwa Valley (Zambia) 165 Great Pyramid of Cholula 12 Motovun (Croatia), Film Festival 263 New Orleans (USA) 95 Pacific Crest Trail (USA/Canada) 115
Lugo (Spain), Roman Walls 46 Las Pozas 276 Mount Athos (Greece) 119 New York State (USA) Padua (Italy), Giotto Frescoes, Capella degli
Luka Korculanska (Croatia) 209 Majahuitas 207 Mount Augustus (Western Australia) 150 canals 113 Scrovegni 274
Lumberjack World Championships Mazatlan 52 Mount Carmel (Israel) 138 Finger Lakes 183 Paestum (Italy) 45
(Wisconsin) 240 Mexico City 144, 238, 313 Mount Davidson (San Francisco) 311 New York (USA) 288–91 Painted Canyon (North Dakota) 183
lunar rainbows (Victoria Falls) 182 Palenque 44 Mount Kilimanjaro (Kenya/Tanzania) 220 art galleries 270–3 Pak Ou Caves (Laos) 39
Luzern (Switzerland) 322 Pan-American Highway 89 Mount Kinabalu (Malaysia) 223 Daily News Building 142 Pakistan
Lycian coast (Turkey) 113 Peña de Bernal 151 Mount Rushmore (South Dakota) 250 Halloween Parade 67 Concordia (Karakoram Range) 91
Lyon (France), Cuisine 256–7 Puerto Esconido 86, 204 Mount Sinai (Egypt) 119 Manhattan 128 Khyber Pass Steam Safari 114
Route 15 86–7 Mount Stanley (Uganda/Democratic St Patrick’s Day 60 Palace on Wheels (India) 92–3
M Tulum 198 Republic of Congo) 220–1 Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum 142 Palacio Ortiz Basualdo (Buenos Aires) 129
Macau Grand Prix 235 Yucatán Peninsula 41, 204 Mount Vesuvius (Italy) 24 Studio Museum (Harlem) 277 Palais de l’Elysée (Paris) 129
Machu Picchu (Peru) 32, 82 Zacatecas 313 Mount Wilhelm (Papua New Guinea) 222 TWA Building 145 Palais des Papes (Avignon) 64
Madagascar 165 Mexico City (Mexico) 313 mountain-biking 230–1 World’s Fair 144 Palau, Blue Corner 229
Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve 183 Unam Library 144 mountainboarding 239 New Zealand Palawan (Philippines) 208
Madeira (Portugal) 111 wrestling 238 Moyen Age, Musée National du (Paris) 244, Auckland 191 Palazzo Ducale (Urbino) 47
Madhopur (India) 93 Miami (USA) 246 Cathedral Cove 206 Palazzo Querini Stampalia (Venice) 302
Madrassah Mir-i-Arab (Bukhara) 143 Calle Occho Latino Festival 77 Moyobamba (Peru), Orchids 167 Marlborough wine region 115, 248 Palenque (Mexico) 44
Madurai (India) 109 Miami Beach 188 Mud Festival (Boryeong) 79 Masterton 78 Palio (Asti/Sienna) 72–3
Magellan Strait (Chile) 160 South Beach 204 Muizenberg Beach (Cape Town) 191 Milford Track 112 Palm Beach (Australia) 320
Magens Bay (US Virgin Islands) 186 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 128 Murchison Falls National Park (Uganda) 163 Queenstown 77, 322 Palmyra (Syria) 27
Maiden Castle (England) 44 Miho Museum (Shigaraki) 276 Muri Lagoon (Raratonga) 209 Rotorua 238 Pan-American Highway 89
Majahuitas (Mexico) 207 Milagros, Aqueducto de los (Mérida) 139 Murujuga (Australia) 255 Tongariro National Park 169 Panama
Malaysia Milford Track (New Zealand) 112 Musawwarat (Sudan) 10 Waitomo Caves 181 Camino Real trek 115
Borneo Jungle 179 Milk Beach (Sydney) 320 museums and galleries 274–7 Niagara Falls (Canada/USA) 173 Pan-American Highway 89
Kuala Lumpur 277 Millau Bridge (France) 144 architectural marvels 134–5, 142, 145 Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim) 98 Panama Canal 142
Mount Kinabalu (Borneo) 223 Mílos (Greece), Sarakíniko Beach 209 Hong Kong 296 Nielson Park Beach (Sydney) 320 Panay Island (Philippines) 52–3
Pangkor Laut 208 Mimosa Festival (Herceg Novi) 78 London 122, 283 Niemeyer, Oscar 143, 145 Pancha Rathas (Mamallapuram) 45
Sarawak 56, 180, 182 Mina El Eden (Zacatecas) 313 New York 142, 270, 272, 273 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft) 280 Pangkor Laut (Malaysia), Emerald Bay 208
Teluk Intan 126 Minakshi Sundareshvara Temple (Madurai) Paris 244, 246, 247 Niger river 153 Pantanal (Brazil) 182
Tioman Island 207 107, 109 Rome 258–9, 260, 261 Nile, River 10 Papua New Guinea
Maldives, Ihuru 200–1 Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest (Ecuador) Venice 302 Nile cruise 100 Mount Wilhelm 222
Mali 176–7 see also museums and galleries by name Nîmes (France) trekking 233
Bamako 275 Minnesota (USA), St. Paul Winter Carnival music 54–5, 56–7, 63, 64–5, 68–9, 74–5, 76, Arènes de Nîmes 23 Trobriand Islands 240
Djenné 142 77 78–9, 132–3, 135, 268–9, 275 Pont du Gard 136 Tufi 228
Festival in the Desert 56 Minoan civilization 26 music venues (New York) 290 Ningaloo (Australia) 241 Parada do Orgulho, São Paolo 66
Pays Dogon 76 Mission District (San Francisco) 309 Mycenaean civilization 26 Nissim de Camondo, Musée (Paris) 244, 247 Paraguay, Río Paraguay 153
Malmö (Sweden), Turning Torso 135 Mission Dolores (San Francisco) 310 Mykonos (Greece) 55 Noirmoutier (France) 207 Parintins (Brazil), Boi-Bumba 77
Malta, Megalithic Temples 17 Mississippi (USA), Natchez Trace Parkway Non Nuoc Beach (Danang) 190 Paris (France) 314–17
Mamaia (Romania) 54–5 Drive 114 N Norfolk Broads (England) 101 art galleries 244–7
Mamallapuram (India), Pancha Rathas 45 Mljet (Croatia) 170 Naadam (Mongolia) 73 North Carolina (USA), Ocracoke Island 203 Champs-Elysées 129
Manaus (Brazil), Amazon Theatre 275 Mnajdra Megalithic Temples (Malta) 17 Namibia North Cyprus, Golden Beach 201 cuisine 257
Mandai Orchid Garden (Singapore) 182 Modern Art, Museum of (MoMA) (New York) Bosluisbaii 207 North Dakota (USA), Painted Canyon 183 marathon 216–17
Manhattan (New York) 128 270 Fish River Canyon 94, 180 North Fort (Sydney) 320 Notre-Dame de Paris 140
Manzanillo (Mexico) 86 Mombassa (Kenya) 195 Skeleton Coast drive 115 North Korea, Ryugyong Hotel (Pyongyang) River Seine 101
Manzanillo Beach (Costa Rica) 199 Momenta Art in Williamsburg (New York) Sossusvlei (Namib Desert) 183 144 Parkland Walk (London) 284
Marais district (Paris) 316 273 Namsan (Gyeongju) 293 Northern Ireland, Tandragee 100 234–5 parks and gardens
marathons 216–17, 241 monasteries 44, 45, 46, 47, 119, 170, Nancy (France) 325 Northern Lights (Greenland) 182 Hong Kong 296
Maravillas, Cuevas de la (Dom. Rep.) 255 232–3 Villa Majorelle 145 Norway London 284
Mardi Gras, Gay & Lesbian (Sydney) Mongolia Nantes (France), La Folle Journée de fjörds 160 New York 290
66–7 on horseback 115 Nantes 76 Heddal Stavkirke 142 San Francisco 310
Marlborough (New Zealand) 248 Naadam 73 Napa Valley (California) 249 Trondheim 98 Parliament House (Canberra) 142
wine tour by bike 115 Monkey Bay (Tioman Island) 207 Napili Bay (Hawai‘i) 193 Voss 214 Paro Tsechu (Bhutan) 77
332
INDE X
Parranda (Remedios) 79 The Proms (London) 268 Romans 20–3, 24–5, 26–7, 45, 46, 47, 198 San Juan Skyway Drive (Colorado) 115 Sintra (Portugal) 324
Les Passages (Paris) 317 Providenciales (Turks and Caicos Islands), Rome (Italy) San Lazzaro degli Armeni, Isola di (Venice) Sir John Soane’s Museum (London) 277, 283
Patagonia (Argentina/Chile) Grace Bay 186–7 Colosseum 20 303 Skagen (Denmark) 183
horseback cattle drive 114 Puente de la Mujer (Buenos Aires) 142 Keats-Shelley House 276 San Sebastián de Bernal (Mexico) 151 Skara Brae (Orkney Islands) 27
Pan-American Highway 89 Puerto Esconido (Mexico) 86, 204 museums 258–61 San Sebastián (Spain), Film Festival 262–3 Skeleton Coast Drive (Namibia) 115
Patagonian Fjords 160 Puerto Montt (Chile) 155 Ostia Antica 261 San Sepolcro (Italy) 99 Skellig Michael (Ireland) 47
Torres del Paine 85, 150 Puerto Rico Pyramid of Cestius 13 San Servolo, Isola di (Venice) 303 Skerrie (Ireland) 235
Paul, St 97 Caving 239 St Peter’s Basilica 121 Sana’a (Yemen) 299 skiing 212–15, 238, 240
Pedra Azul (Brazil) 151 Phosphorescent Bay 183 Via Francigena 96–7 Sanchi (India) 123 Skyline Trail (Swansea) 231
Pemba (Tanzania) 229 Vieques 187 Romeria del Rocio (Andalusia) 61 Sanday (Orkney) 201 skyscrapers 128, 142–5
Peña de Bernal (Mexico) 151 Puerto Vallarta (Mexico) 86 Ronchamp (France), Notre Dame du Haut Santa Fe (New Mexico) 323 Slickrock Trail (Utah) 230
Penghu Islands (Taiwan), Windsurfing Puget Sound (Washington State) 181 144 Santa Maria dell’Assunta (Spoleto) 136 Slovakia, Bratislava 306
239 Puglia (Italy) 267 Roskilde (Denmark) 74 Santiago (Chile), La Chascona 276 Slovenia
Pennsylvania (USA), Fallingwater 142 Pula Arena (Croatia) 20–1 Rotorua (New Zealand) 238 Santiago (Cuba) 322 Glacial Lakes 156
Pergamon (Turkey) 47 Pulteney Bridge (Bath) 312 Route 15 (Mexico) 86–7 Santiago de Compostela (Spain) 97 Planica Ski Jump 238
Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 276 Punakha Domchoe (Bhutan) 78 Route 66 (USA) 86 Santorini (Greece) 26 Smirke, Sydney 122
Persepolis (Iran) 44 Puning Temple (Chengde) 130–1 Rovos Rail (South Africa) 94 São Paulo (Brazil) 67 Sol de Mañana (Bolivia) 169
Perth (Australia) 95 Punta Arenas (Chile) 160 Royal County Down (Northern Ireland) 225 Saqqara, Pyramids of (Egypt) 12–13 Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
Cottesloe Beach 188–9 Punta del Este (Uruguay) 204–5 Royal Crescent (Bath) 312 Sarakíniko Beach (Mílos) 209 (New York) 142
Peru Puri (India), Rath Yatra (Chariot Festival) 61 Royal Delft (Delft) 280 Sarawak (Malaysia) Solta (Croatia) 170
Chicama 237 Pushcart Derby (Discovery Bay) 79 Royal National Park (Australia) 320 Bako National Park 180 Sonkajärvi (Finland), Wife Carrying
Colca Canyon 180 Pushkar Camel Fair (India) 76 Royal Ontario Museum (Toronto) 134 Rainforest World Music Festival 56 Championships 78
Copa 222 Pyongyang (North Korea), Ryugyong Hotel Ruaha National Park (Tanzania) 164 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 182 Sonnenobservatorium (Goseck) 16
Cordillera Blanca 85 144 Russia Sardinia (Italy) Sonora Desert (Mexico) 86
Cordillera Huayhuash 91 pyramids 10–11, 12–13, 40, 41 Kamchatka 215 Costa Smeralda 111 Sopot Beach (Gdansk) 203
Cusco 71, 287 Kamchatka Peninsula 112, 169, 215 Nuraghi 46 Sossusvlei (Namib Desert) 183
Gocta Falls 181 Q Kazan 144 Sa Sartiglia 73 Soup Bowl (Barbados) 236–7
Huayna Picchu 35 Qaitbey, Fort (Alexandria) 286 Kizhi 47 Spiaggia del Principe 209 South Africa
Inca Trail 82 Qatar, Museum of Islamic Art (Doha) 275 Lake Baikal 181 Saskatoon (Canada) 94 Blue Train Cape Town to Pretoria 112
Machu Picchu 32 Quarantine Station (Sydney) 320 Moscow 143, 145, 277 Savannah (Georgia) 324 Cape Town 68, 191, 207, 241, 256
Moyobamba 167 Quebec City (Canada) 325 St Petersburg 64, 275 Scarborough (England) 235 Cape Winelands 248
Pisac 35 Queen Elizabeth National Park (Uganda) Sergiyev Posad 44 Scotland Drakensberg Mountains 167, 252–3
Sacsayhuaman 45 163 Siberia 112, 169, 181, 215 Edinburgh 63, 241, 269 Freedom Trail 231
Perugia (Italy) 265 Queen’s Beach (Montenegro) 206 Veliky Novgorod 145 Fingal’s Cave (Staffa) 181 Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve 164
Peter, St 97 Queenstown (New Zealand) 322 Rustler’s Valley Festival (South Africa) 76 Isle of Harris 202–3 iSimangaliso Wetland Park 196
Petra (Jordan) 28 Winter Festival 77 Rwenzori National Park (Uganda) 220 Orkney Islands 17, 27, 201 Jeffrey’s Bay (Eastern Cape) 237
Philippines, the Qutb Minar (Delhi) 127 Ryugyong Hotel (Pyongyang) 144 Thurso East (Caithness) 237 Karoo National Park 88
Boracay 206 Sea kayaking, Prince William Sound kloofing 238
Jai Alai 239 R S (Alaska) 238 Kruger National Park 163
Kalibo (Panay Island) 52–3 Radhanagar Beach (Andaman Islands) 201 Sa Sartiglia (Sardinia) 73 Sea Ranch Chapel (Gualala) 145 Rovos Rail 94
Palawan 208 Rafael Coronel Museum (Zacatecas) 313 Saadani National Park (Tanzania) 197 Sears Tower (Chicago) see Willis Tower Rustler’s Valley Festival 76
Phosphorescent Bay (Puerto Rico) 183 rafting, The Karnali (Nepal) 238 Saadian Tombs (Marrakech) 145 Seattle (USA) Splashy Fen 76
Photographers’ Gallery (London) 274 rail travel see train journeys Sabratha (Libya) 198 Bumbershoot 74–5 Tugela Falls 175
Phuket (Thailand), Vegetarian Festival 79 Rainforest World Music Festival (Sarawak) sacred music 56 Folklife Festival 74 Two Oceans Marathon 217
pilgrimages 96–9 56 Sacsayhuaman (Peru) 45 Sedona (Arizona) 324 South Beach, Miami (Florida) 204
Pilgrim’s Way (England) 98 rainforests 176–9 safari parks 162–5 Segovia (Spain), Roman aqueduct 138 South Dakota (USA)
Pingvellir National Park (Iceland) 168 Rajasthan (India) Sahara Desert 153, 181, 241 Seilebost (Harris) 202 Crazy Horse Memorial 250
Pink Sands (Eleuthera) 187 International Folk Music Festival camel caravans (Morocco) 113 Seine, River (France) 101 Mount Rushmore 250
Pisa (Italy), Leaning Tower 125 (Jodphur) 56 sailing 239 Selinunte (Sicily) 18–19 South Downs Way (England) 114
Pisac (Peru) 35 Palace on Wheels 92–3 St Catherine’s Monastery (Mount Sinai) 119 Semana Santa South Korea
Pittwater Harbour (Australia) 320 Pushkar Camel Fair 76 St Francis Basilica (Assisi) 99, 265 Cusco (Peru) 71 Mud Festival (Boryeong) 79
Place de la Concorde (Paris) 129 Shekhawati 109 St Francis Church (Belo Horizonte) 143 Seville (Spain) 71 skiing in Yongpyeong 240
Plain of Jars (Xieng Khouang) 47 Ranthambhore National Park (India) 93, 106 St Lucia Jazz 68 Semenggoh Nature Reserve (Sarawak) 182 Southwold (England), Latitude 78
Planica Ski Jump (Slovenia) 238 Raratonga (Cook Islands), Muri Lagoon 207 St Mark’s Basilica (Venice) 118, 127 Sergiyev Posad (Russia) 44 Sozopol (Bulgaria) 323
Playa de Cabo de Gata (Almería) 207 Rath Yatra (Chariot Festival) (Puri) 61 St Moritz (Switzerland) 73, 94 Seti I, Temple of (Abydos) 44 Spain
Playa Flamingo (Vieques) 187 Ravenna (Italy) St Olav’s Way (Trondheim) 98 Seven Mile Beach (Grand Cayman) 187 Almería 207
Playa Ostional (Costa Rica) 182 Byzantine churches 119 St Patrick’s Day (New York) 60 Seville (Spain) 71 Andalucia 61, 266
Plitvice Lakes (Croatia) 156 Galla Placida Mausoleum 46 St. Paul (Minnesota), Winter Carnival 77 Seychelles Barcelona 143
Point Reyes National Seashore (California) Recife (Brazil) 53 St Peter’s Basilica (Rome) 96, 97, 121 Aldabra Atoll 181 Benicassim 55
88 Red Mountain (Canada) 214 St Petersburg (Russia) Anse Source d’Argent (La Digue) 206 Bilbao 134
Pokhara (Nepal) 90 Red Pyramid (Dashur) 12 Amber Room, Catherine Palace 275 Shanghai (China) 102, 112 Burgos 141
Poland Regent’s Canal (London) 284 White Nights Festival 64 Shekhawati (India) 109 Canary Islands 79, 183, 274
Gdańsk 203, 307 Registan (Samarkand) 145 St Thomas (US Virgin Islands), Magens Bay Shela Beach (Lamu Island) 197 Carnival 76
Wieliczka Salt Mine 144 Reichstag (Berlin) 142 186 Sherlock Holmes Museum (London) 283 Empúries 19
Polonnaruwa (Sri Lanka), Gal Vihara reindeer migration (Sweden) 114 Sainte Foy (France) 215 Shibam (Yemen) 143 Figueres 275
Buddhas 44 Remedios (Cuba), Parranda 79 Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church (San Shigaraki (Japan), Miho Museum 276 Haro 59
Pomier, Cuevas de (San Cristóbal) 44 Reno (Nevada) 292 Francisco) 310 Shimla (India) 324 Ibiza 54
Pompeii (Italy) 24 Reykjavík (Iceland) 224-5 Salamis (Cyprus) 47 Shiraz (Iran) 323 Las Islas Cies (Galicia) 209
Pont du Gard (France) 136 Rhodes (Greece), Acropolis 19 Salar de Uyuni (Bolivia) 84–5 Shiretoko Peninsula (Japan) 183 Lugo 46
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (Wales) 138 rhododendrons (in the Himalayas) 167 Salinas (Ecuador) 204 Shoal Bay (Anguilla) 187 Mérida 23, 139
Ponte delle Torri (Spoleto) 136 Richmond (San Francisco) 309 Saline Royale (Arc-et-Senans) 145 shopping San Sebastián 262–3
Popovka (Ukraine) 55 Rīga (Latvia) 304–5 salsa, in Havana (Cuba) 218–19 Hong Kong (China) 296 Santiago de Compostela 97
Port of Spain (Trinidad) 53 Ring o’Brodgar (Orkney Islands) 17 Salvador (Brazil) 325 London (England) 285 Segovia 138
Porto (Corsica) 110 Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) Carnival 50–1 New York (USA) 289 Seville 71
Porto (Portugal), Casa da Musica 135 Carnival 50 Samba 219 Paris 316–17 Toledo 322
Porto de Galinhas (Brazil) 209 Copacabana 205 Samaria Gorge (Crete) 182 Shravanabelagola (India), Gomateshwara Valencia 59
Portugal Rio Grande Gorges (New Mexico) 182 Samarkand (Uzbekistan) Statue 142 Sphereing (Rotorua) 238
Douro Valley 114, 267 Río Paraguay (Brazil/Paraguay) 153 Golden Road 115 Shukhov Tower (Moscow) 143 Spiaggia del Principe (Sardinia) 209
Lisbon 139, 277 Riobamba (Equador) 95 Registan 145 Sibame (Equador) 95 Splashy Fen (South Africa) 76
Porto 135 road journeys 86–9, 110–11, 112–15 Tilla Kari Madrasa 122 Siberia (Russia) 112, 169, 181, 215 Split (Croatia) 322
Sintra 324 road racing 234–5 Samba, in Salvador (Brazil) 219 Sichuan (China) 180, 183 Spoleto (Italy) 136, 264, 265
Potala Palace (Lhasa) 45 Robert F. Wagner, Jr Park (New York) 290 Samburu National Reserve (Kenya) 164 Sicily, Agrigento and Selinunte 18–19 Festival di Spoleto 268–9
Potosí (Bolivia) 287 Rocca fortress (Spoleto) 136 Samoa, American, Ofu Beach 209 Sidi Ifni (Morocco) 322 sports 212–41
Prague (Czech Republic) 305 rock art 252–5, 277 San Cristóbal (Dominican Republic), Cuevas Siem Reap (Cambodia) 323 Sri Lanka
Christmas Market 76 rock formations 148–51, 180, 181, 182, 183, de Pomier 44 Siena (Italy) 97, 324 Anuradhapura 38
Fred and Ginger Building 143 230–1 San Diego (USA), Coronado Beach 208 Palio 71 Esala Perahera 60–1
Preá (Brazil), kitesurfing 239 rock music 74–5 San Francesco del Deserto, Isola di (Venice) Sinai Desert (Egypt) 233 Gal Vihara Buddhas (Polonnaruwa) 44
Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center (San rock-carved sites 28–31, 44, 45, 250 303 Sinan 122 St-Clément, Aqueduc (Montpellier) 139
Francisco) 277, 309 The Rockies 94, 112, 212 San Francisco (USA) 308–11 Singapore St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) 98
The Presidio (San Francisco) 310 Roman Amphitheatre (Alexandria) 286 Precita Eyes Mural Arts Center 277, 309 E&O Express 113 St-Paul-de-Vence (France), Fondation
Pretoria (South Africa) Roman Aqueduct (Segovia) 138 San Gimignano (Italy) 97, 124–5, 265 Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay 142 Marguerite et Aimé Maeght 277
Blue Train 112 Roman Baths and Pump Room (Bath) 312 San Giorgio Maggiore (Venice) 302 Grand Prix 240 Staffa, Isle of (Scotland), Fingal’s Cave
Rovos Rail 94 Romania, Mamaia 54–5 San Juan Islands (Washington State) Mandai Orchid Garden 182 181
Prince William Sound (Alaska) 238 Romano, Museo Nazionale (Rome) 261 181 New Year 58 standing stones 16–17
333
INDE X
Stari Most (Mostar) 47 Tel Aviv (Israel), Gordon-Frishman Beaches Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve USA (cont.) Wales (cont.)
State Museum of V V Mayakovsky (Moscow) 191 (Madagascar) 183 Utah 158–9, 180, 181, 182, 230 Oxwich Bay (Gower) 209
277 Telegraph Hill (San Francisco) 311 TT Races (Isle of Man) 234 Washington State 114, 181 Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 138
Staten Island Greenbelt and Todt Hill (New Telford, Thomas 138 Tufi (Papua New Guinea) 228 Wisconsin 240 Swansea 231
York) 290 Teluk Intan (Malaysia), Leaning Tower 126 Tugela Falls (South Africa) 175 Wyoming 78, 148–9, 168, 241 Tryfan 239
Step Pyramid of Zoser (Saqqara) 12–13 temples Tulum (Mexico) 198 University Museum & Art Gallery (Hong Walt Disney Concert Hall (Los Angeles) 132
Stephansdom (Vienna) 141 ancient 10–11, 17, 18–19, 32–3, 34–5, Tumuli Park (Gyeongju) 293 Kong) 296 Washington State (USA)
Stevenson Trail (France) 113 40–1, 44–5, 46, 100–1 Tundra buggying for polar bears (Canada) Urbino (Italy), Palazzo Ducale 47 Cascade Loop Drive 114
stone circles 16–17 Buddhist 31, 36–9, 46, 60, 123, 130–1, 114 Uruguay San Juan Islands 181
Stone Mountain (Georgia) 151 206, 293 Tunis (Tunisia) 299 Montevideo 325 Wassu Stone Circles (Gambia) 17
Stone Town (Zanzibar), Festival of the Dhow Confucian 130, 131 Tunisia Punta del Este 204–5 Watamu (Kenya) 195
Countries 78 Daoist 310 Coastal North Africa 89 US Virgin Islands, Magens Bay (St Thomas) waterfalls 168, 172–5, 181, 182, 183
Storico Navale, Museo (Venice) 302 Hindu 13, 31, 39, 45, 76, 99, 107, 109 El Djem 22 186 West Coast Swing (California) 219
Strokkur Geysir (Iceland) 168–9 Jain 31 Tunis 299 Utah (USA) Whistler (Canada) 212
Studio Museum (New York) 277 Temuco (Chile) 155 Turkey Arches National Park 180 White Beach (Boracay) 206
Sucre (Bolivia) 324 Tenerife (Canary Islands) Assos 19 Bryce Canyon 158–9 White Nights Festival (St Petersburg) 64
Sudan, Pyramids of Meroe 10–11 Carnival (Santa Cruz) 79 Cappadocia 230–1, 239 Buckskin Gulch 180 White Turf (St Moritz) 73
Sudbury Junction (Canada) 94 Teide National Park 183 Ephesus 46 Kodachrome Basin State Park 181 whitewater rafting 238
Sufism 56, 57 Tennessee (USA) Istanbul 47, 118–19, 122, 219 Monument Valley 182 Wieliczka Salt Mine (Poland) 144
Süleyman I, the Magnificent 122, 123 Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival 74 Kaunos 30 Slickrock Trail 230 Wife Carrying Championships (Sonkajärvi)
Süleymaniye Mosque (Istanbul) 122 Natchez Trace Parkway Drive 114 Lycian Coast 113 Zion Canyon 159 78
Sullivan, Louis H 128 Tenth arrondissement (Paris) 317 Nemrut Dagi 46 Uttaranchal (India), Curzon Trail 112 wildlife 108, 114, 161, 163–5, 180–3, 196–7,
Sunken Forest (New York) 290 Tet Festival (Vietnam) 77 Pergamon 47 Uzbekistan 199
Sunset Limited (USA) 95 Thai boxing 239 Turks and Caicos Islands, Grace Bay The Ark (Bukhara) 46 Wind River Mountains (Wyoming) 241
Sunwaves Festival (Mamaia) 54–5 Thailand (Providenciales) 186–7 Golden Road to Samarkand 115 windsurfing 239
surfing 236–7 E&O Express, Bangkok to Singapore Turning Torso (Malmö) 135 Madrassah Mir-i-Arab (Bukhara) 143 wine regions 248–9, 276
Surtsey (Iceland) 168–9 113 Turtle Bay (Kenya) 194–5 Registan (Samarkand) 145 Wineglass Bay (Tasmania) 203
Sussex Inlet (Australia) 319 Ko Pha Ngan 70 Tuscany (Italy) 265 Tilla Kari Madrasah (Samarkand) 122 Winnipeg (Canada) 94
Suzhou (China) 104 Ko Phi Phi 200 TWA Building (New York) 145 Winter Festival (Queenstown) 77
Huqiu Tower 126 Ko Samui 206 Two Oceans Marathon (South Africa) 217 V Wisconsin (USA), Lumberjack World
Sveta Marija monastery (Mljet) 170 Ko Tarutao 201 Valencia (Spain) 59 Championships 240
Swansea (Wales), Skyline Trail 231 Koh Lone 206 U Valle de la Luna (Chile) 180 Wollombi (Australia) 319
Sweden Mekong river 153 Udaipur (India) 93, 325 Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 251 Wolong Nature Reserve (Sichuan) 183
Ales Stenar 16 Phuket 79 Uganda Vancouver (Canada) 94 WOMAD (England) 57
Åre 215 Thai boxing 239 Mount Stanley 220–1 Vanuatu Archipelago Cruise (South Pacific) World music 56–7
Ljunghusen Golf Course 225 trekking in Chiang Mai 232 Western Reserves 162–3 114 World Sacred Music Festival (Fez) 56, 298
Malmö 135 Vientiane 78 Ukraine Varanasi (India) 106 World’s Fair (New York) 144
reindeer migration 114 Thanjavur (India) 13 Kazantip Festival (Popovka) 55 Vatican Museums (Rome) 259 Wrestling (Mexico City) 238
tour skating 240 theatre Odessa 324 Vegetarian Festival (Phuket) 79 Wyoming (USA)
Visby 47 Off-Broadway theatre and performances Uluru (Australia) 149 Veliky Novgorod (Russia), Kremlin 145 Cheyenne Frontier Days 78
Swimmers, Cave of the (Wadi Sora) 277 (New York) 291 Umbria (Italy) 264–5 Venezuela Devils Tower 148–9
Swimming, island-to-island (Cyclades) 241 pub theatres (London) 284 Unam Library (Mexico City) 144 Angel Falls 174 hiking 241
Switzerland Thessaloniki (Greece) 323 United Kingdom see England; Northern The Orinoco 152–3 Yellowstone National Park 168, 241
Basel 79 Thiske Monastery (Leh) 47 Ireland; Scotland; Wales Venice (Italy) 300–3
Bellinzona 45 Three Choirs Festival (England) 275 United States Basilica San Marco 118, 127 X
Glacier Express 94 Three Gorges (Yangtze River) 102, 104, 115 Alaska 238 Campanile San Marco 127, 302 Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 105
Haute Route (Alps) 91, 115 Thurso East (Scotland) 237 Arizona 158, 159, 324 Film Festival 263 Xiahe (China), Labrang Monastery 46
Locarno 263 Tianjin (China) 105 Boston 275 Guggenheim Foundation 275 Xi’an (China) 102
Luzern 322 Tibet California 88, 132, 143, 144, 145, 150, Vermeer Cube Walk (Delft) 280 Xieng Khouang (Laos), Plain of Jars 47
Montreux 69 Beijing/Shanghai–Lhasa Train 112 175, 208, 219, 249, 276, 277, 308–11 Verona (Italy), Arena 23 Xijiang (China) 105
St Moritz 73 Lhasa 45, 131 Cape Cod 202 Vestmannaeyjar Islands (Iceland) 168 Xilitla (Mexico), Las Pozas 276
ski-joring 238 Ticino (Switzerland) 266 Cape May 208 Vesuvius, Mount (Italy) 24
Ticino 266 Tiger’s Nest monastery (Bhutan) 232–3 Chicago 75, 128, 276 Vetro, Museo del (Venice) 302 Y
Sydney (Australia) 95, 318–21 Tikal (Guatemala) 40–1 Colorado 30, 115, 231 Via Francigena (Italy) 96–7, 98, 125 Yabun (Sydney) 321
Bondi Beach 236 Tilla Kari Madrasah (Samarkand) 122 Florida 67, 77, 188, 204, 208, 277 Victoria Falls (Zambia/Zimbabwe) 182 Yangtze River (China) 102, 104
Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras 66–7, 321 Timgad (Algeria) 26 Georgia 151, 324 Vienna (Austria), Stephansdom 141 cruise 115
harbour cruise 101 Tiomin Island (Malaysia), Monkey Bay 207 Hawai‘i 159, 192–3, 209, 222 Vientiane (Laos) 325 Yellowstone National Park (Wyoming) 168,
Opera House 132, 318 Titicaca, Lake (Peru/Bolivia) 32–3, 82 Key West 67 Vientiane (Thailand), Bun Bang Fai 78 241
Syria Tiwanaku (Bolivia) 34–5 Las Vegas 292 Vieques (Puerto Rico), Playa Flamingo 187 Yemen
Aleppo 256, 299, 323 Todi (Italy) 265 Los Angeles 132, 144 Vietnam Sana’a 299
Damascus 79, 144 Tokaj Wine Region (Hungary) 248 Massachusetts 269 Danang 190 Shibam 143
Krak des Chevaliers 42–3 Tokyo (Japan), Ueno Park 166 Miami 77, 188, 204 Halong Bay 112 Yonghegong (Beijing) 46
Palmyra 27 Toledo (Spain) 322 Minnesota 77 Hue 323 Yongpyeong (South Korea) 240
La Tomatina (Valencia) 59 Mississippi 114 Mekong River 113, 153 Yosemite Falls (California) 175
T tombs, rock-cut 28, 30 Montana 181 Tet Festival 77 Yosemite National Park (California) 150, 175
Taipei (China), Taipei 101 144 Tongariro National Park (New Zealand) 169 Nevada 78, 292 views Yucatán Peninsula (Mexico) 41, 204
Taiwan, Windsurfing (Penghu Islands) Toonik Tyme (Iqalit) 77 New England’s Fall 166 San Francisco 311
239 Tooth, Temple of the (Kandy) 60 New Haven 65 Sydney 321 Z
Taj Mahal (Agra) 93, 106 Toronto (Canada) 94 New Mexico 30, 31, 182, 323, 325 Venice 302 Zacatecas (Mexico) 313
Takada Park (Jôetsu) 166–7 CN Tower 143 New York 60, 67, 128, 142, 144, 145, 270– Vijayanagar (India) 39 Zagreb (Croatia) 55
Talaa Kebira (Fez) 298 Royal Ontario Museum 134 3, 277, 288–91 Viking Trail (Canada) 115 Zambezi Canoe Safari (Southern Africa) 115
Tandragee 100 (Northern Ireland) 234–5 Torres del Paine (Chile) 85, 150 New York State 113, 183 Vikings 47, 115 Zambia
Tang Dynasty 31 Toulouse-Lautrec Museum (Albi) 275 Niagara Falls 173 Villa Majorelle (Marrakech) 274 Luangwa Valley 165
Tanglewood Music Festival (Massachusetts) Tour Skating (Sweden) 240 North Carolina 203 Villa Majorelle (Nancy) 145 Victoria Falls 182
269 Tours (France) 324 North Dakota 183 Villarrica (Chile) 154, 155 Zanzibar
tango, Buenos Aires (Brazil) 218 Tower of London (England) 42 Oregon 248 Vis (Croatia) 170, 171 East Coast 197
Tank Hill (San Francisco) 311 towers 124–7 Pacific Crest Trail 115 Visby (Sweden) 47 Nungwi 208
Tanneries (Fez) 298 Town Hall Square (Riga) 305 Pan-American Highway 89 volcano climbing (Guatemala) 241 Stone Town 78
Tanzania Trail 401 (Colorado) 231 Pennsylvania 142 Voss (Norway) 214 Zermatt (Switzerland) 94
Mount Kilimanjaro 220 train journeys 92–5, 112–15 Prince William Sound 238 Zhengding (China), Dafo Temple 131
Pemba 229 TransAmerica Redwood Park Reno 292 W Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls 182
Ruaha National Park 164 (San Francisco) 310 Route 66 86 Wadi el-Hitan (Valley of the Whales) (Egypt) Zion Canyon (Utah) 159
Saadani National Park 197 Transfiguration, Church of the (Kizhi) 47 Saint Paul 77 182 Zoucheng (China), Mencius Temple 131
Zanzibar 78, 197, 208 Tre Castelli (Bellinzona) 45 San Diego 208 Wadi Sora (Egypt), Cave of the Swimmers
Taos (New Mexico) 325 trekking 82–5, 90–1, 112–15, 220–3, 232–3, San Francisco 277, 308–11 277
Tarn Valley (France), Millau Bridge 144 238, 240, 241 see also pilgrimages San Juan Islands 181 Waikīkī (Hawai‘i) 192
Tartu (Estonia) 322 Trier (Germany) 22 Santa Fe 323 Waimea Canyon (Hawai‘i) 159
Tasmania (Australia) Trinidad, Carnival 53 Savannah 324 Wainwright’s Coast-to-Coast Walk (England)
Tasman Peninsula 111 Trobriand Islands (Papua New Guinea) 240 Seattle 74–5 112
Wineglass Bay 203 Troitse-Sergiyeva Lavra (Sergiyev Posad) 44 South Dakota 250 Waitomo Caves (New Zealand) 181
Tayrona (Colombia) 209 Trondheim (Norway) 98 Sunset Limited 95 Wales
Teatro Colón (Buenos Aires) 129 Trôo (Loir-et-Cher) 45 Taos 325 Anglesey 43
Tehran (Iran), Carpet Museum 275 Truckee River Arts District (Reno) 292 Tennessee 74, 114 The Eisteddfod 65
Teide National Park (Tenerife) 183 Tryfan (Wales) 239 US Virgin Islands 186 Laugharne 274
334
Rudolf is an award-winning writer and An award-winning travel writer and An experienced food and travel writer, Eric is
photographer, whose books include Walking photographer, Donna writes for magazines, committed to his goal of celebrating New
in Croatia and The Mountains of Montenegro, as newspapers and websites worldwide. She is Year’s Eve in a different city every year. “I can’t
well as guides to the mountains of eastern the author of numerous travel guides and wait to go back to West Texas. From the smallest
Turkey and Patagonian Chile. He also writes inspirational travel books, such as the recent of towns (artsy Marfais only 1.6 square miles) to
on Islamic art and architecture. “Where would I Travelers’ Atlas North America. “For my next big big cities like El Paso (which has the same
really like to go next? The island of South Georgia road trip I’m planning to drive the Alaska population as Boston), the entire area is
would be nice – although there are some remote Highway. My grandfather helped to build it shrouded in mystery.” Author of pages 132–5.
corners of Patagonia calling me back for another during the Great Depression, and I’m keen to
visit.” Author of pages 120–23. experience that great road through the ANTHONY HAM
wilderness.” Author of pages 128, 250, 308–11.
ERIC AMRINE Maryanne has a taste for travel, from the cafés The empty spaces on maps are what really get
of Paris to the peaks of Peru, via Colombian JENNIFER EVELAND Anthony excited. He likes nothing better than
A Seattle-based writer, photographer and cow farms and Argentine tango bars. Prior to sharing a campfire with a Tuareg nomad or
musician, Eric made the jump from moving to Peru in 2005, the Australian-born Jennifer will tell you that the best travel looking to the horizon and not seeing another
technology to travel in 1999, and worked writer lived in Paris for nine years and is partial experiences can’t be planned – often they’re living soul. “I recently went to sand-buried
for the luxury travel consortium Virtuoso. He to a coconut macaroon or six. “I’d like to hike the spontaneous moments when things go Araouane (north of Timbuktu), and I’m already
has written Top 10 Seattle, part of Eyewitness Peru’s Ausangate mountain trail, spending my completely off-course. For the bits that do planning an expedition deep into the Algerian
Travel Guide Alaska and has reviewed dozens days ambling through grassy valleys and ice need planning, she’s co-authored DK’s Top 10 Sahara.” Author of page 198.
of cruise-ship vacations for Expedia, but he fields to see one of the few herding communities Singapore. “I’m currently intrigued by the many
really prefers kayaking in deserted seas and left in the world, and spending my nights snug in private islands around Singapore. Some owners DAMIAN HARPER
wild river rapids. “While I have climbed the eco-friendly lodges at altitudes around 4,500 m.” have built gorgeous holiday villas that they hire
slopes of Mt Rainier, my dreams include Author of pages 66–7, 71, 140–41, 244–7, out when they’re not in residence. There’s nothing With a degree in Chinese and an instinct for
summiting Mt Kilimanjaro before its glaciers 256–7, 314–17. like having an entire tropical island to yourself.” travel, Damian has been writing guidebooks
melt.” Author of pages 74–5. Author of page 58. about China for over a decade. “My next trip is
GARY BOWERMAN to return to the Hakka roundhouses of Fujian
ALF ALDERSON CAROLE FRENCH province. The landscape is gorgeous and the
As a Shanghai-based journalist, Gary’s architecture astonishing, while the ambience of
A keen surfer, skier and mountaineer, Alf searches for offbeat stories have taken him Based in Cyprus, professional travel journalist village life is what trips to China are all about.”
worked as an oil field geologist, ski lift from a gangland prison in San Salvador to Carole is often asked to cover her favourite Author of pages 130–31.
operator, cycle courier and journalist before the Harbin Ice Festival, and from a Bandung places in Greece, Egypt, Jordan and the
finding his perfect job – travel writing. sculptor’s homestead to the Qinghai-Tibet Middle East. She loves to travel further too. HUW HENNESSY
“The place I’d most like to visit I’ve already been railway. ”Libya’s ruins and the vineyards of “For a long time Jamaica was at the top of my
to once – Kamchatka, Russia. I visited in winter Georgia top my ‘to do’ list, but living in China next travel adventure list, but as I’m just back Huw caught his travel bug 25 years ago as a
to ski down the region’s active volcanoes. Next also presents great new opportunities, even in from that dazzling island my next trip has to be tour leader in South America. “My earliest
time I’d like to go in summer and see the grizzly tried-and-trusted cities like Beijing or Xi’an.” to see Belize’s amazing Barrier Reef.” memories there are of vultures and the smell
bears – it has the largest population of them in Author of pages 102–5, 294–7. Author of pages 100–1. of sugar-cane fuel in Brazil.” Recently Huw has
the world.” Author of pages 212–15. spent much time in Devon training for
PHILIP BRIGGS JENNY GEAL marathons. “I’d love to go back to the Amazon, to
CHRISTOPHER BAKER flop in a hammock with a book and just gaze at
A specialist in Africa, Philip wrote what were the expanse of water.” Author of pages 216–7.
then – and in some cases still are – the only
dedicated guidebooks to Tanzania, Uganda, NICK INMAN
Malawi, Ethiopia, Ghana, Mozambique and
Rwanda. The author of DK’s Top 10 Cape Town Nick has contributed to 50 travel guides on
and co-author of Eyewitness Travel Guide Kenya, Spain and France. He is always sent to cover
he recently spent time exploring the the same few places – the obvious
rainforests of Madagascar and deserts of destinations and world-famous sights. Despite
Egypt. “I am currently looking for a pretext to receiving so much attention, these countries
track mandrills and gorillas in Gabon and are packed with little known curiosities.
Cameroon.” Author of pages 162–5, 194–7, Jenny spent 6 months of her languages “Rather than go to spectacular new places, I
An adventurer by heart, Christopher P. Baker, 252–3, 286. degree working hard at seeing as much of prefer to look at familiar places afresh to see
the Lowell Thomas 2008 Travel Journalist of Mexico as possible, and has regularly returned what surprises I can find.” Author of page 59.
the Year, has been a professional travel writer PAUL CLAMMER to Latin America. She has eaten her way
and photographer for three decades and has around South East Asia and loved every DILWYN JENKINS
written for many of the world’s leading Paul started life as a molecular biologist, but minute of a recent safari in the Selous,
publications. “Although Antarctica, South Africa in a gap between jobs picked up his rucksack Tanzania. “I hope to head for the pristine Adriatic A veteran globetrotter with 33 years of travel
and Chile are on my ‘must visit soon’ list, my real and never quite managed to return to the lab. beaches of Montenegro before the UK market and several books under his well-worn belt,
dream is to return to Cuba, where I’m never Having worked as a tour guide in Morocco, discovers this tiny country’s appeal. I work for Dilwyn specializes in South America, with
happier than when relaxing in a rocking chair Turkey and Pakistan, he is now a full-time a specialist tour operator and take every particular emphasis on Peru, the Amazon,
with a mojito and a fine cigar.” Author of pages guidebook author. “When I’m not at my opportunity to write; I’ve always thought that the remote wildlife regions and sustainable
161, 186–7, 199, 218–19, 292. Wiltshire home, I’m usually heading for the life of a travel journalist seems like a pretty good development within tribal communities.
dustier climes of Africa and the greater one!” Author of pages 40–1. “My idea of relaxing is another visit to an area of
JOSEPH BINDLOSS Middle East.” Author of pages 10–13, 298-9. lush protected rainforest, probably in the jungles
GEOFF GROESBECK of central Peru.” Author of pages 50–53.
Joe caught the travel bug in the early 1990s JANE CORNWELL
on a grand tour of Asia, and he’s been Geoff writes and lectures extensively on JORDAN LANCASTER
jumping onto trains, boats and planes ever Jane is an Australian-born, London-based Bolivia’s remote and beautiful Chiquitania.
since. When he’s not roaming around India, writer, journalist and broadcaster specializing Author and specialist contributor, his works Jordan first boarded a plane when she was
Nepal and Southeast Asia for various in arts and music. She is a World Music critic have been translated into 12 languages. A three weeks old and has been on the go ever
guidebooks and magazines, he writes dining for London's Evening Standard newspaper leading researcher on the Jesuit missions of since. After growing up in Canada, she lived
and travel guides in London. “If I could be and an arts correspondent for The Australian Chiquitos, his writing has appeared in some of and studied in Italy for 11 years. She is the
anywhere in the world this very second, it would newspaper. “My next travel adventure will the world’s best-known publications. His author of In the Shadow of Vesuvius: A Cultural
have to be India – either drifting along the be sashaying around the salsa clubs of Cali recent works include guides to Bolivia and History of Italy, and today works in London as a
Brahmaputra River in Assam, or sipping butter in Colombia, a city of painted bridges, Mexico. “My next destination? A trip to the secret translator and interpreter. “I’ve covered a lot of
tea high up in the Himalayas.” Author of pages cobblestone plazas and the occasional archives of the Vatican.” Author of pages 32–5, ground. Next stop: carnival in Salvador de
70, 200–1. skyscaper.” Author of pages 56–7, 62–5. 84–5, 86–9, 152-3, 176–9, 204-5, 287. Bahia!” Author of pages 72–3.
335
AB OU T OUR AU THOR S
FRANCES LINZEE GORDON PAUL SHAWCROSS BETH TIERNEY JOBY WILLIAMS
Paul has been a freelance travel journalist and After a long spell trekking in the tropics, Joby has spent extended periods of time in
photographer for nearly 20 years. Although Beth became hooked on the beauty of the Latin America, first as a teacher and later as
his most recent work is a Paris guidebook underwater world. Since then, she and her a tour leader. Back in the UK, as well as
revision, he much prefers to write about more husband Shaun have written several dive contributing to numerous travel publications,
remote locations. “One of my next projects will travel guide books. ”I experienced the ultimate she is now working on a PhD. “Trekking to
be the almost tourist free, wide-open spaces of adrenaline rush on a recent visit to the Colombia’s Lost City to explore pre-Columbian
the fabulous Mercantour National Park in the Revillagigedos Islands in Mexico, where ruins off the tourist radar is going to be my
hills above Nice.” Author of page 251. I saw giant Pacific manta rays, five different next big adventure.“ Author of pages 76–9,
endangered shark species and swam with pods 112–15, 206–9.
JAMES SMART of bottlenose dolphins.” Author of pages 226–9.
Bitten by the travel bug since visiting Venice ROGER WILLIAMS
on a scholarship at the age of 17, Frances has In his career as an award-winning writer and ALEX WADE
made travel writing her trade. Her work has editor, James has contributed to many In 2007 Roger used a travel prize to find out
included TV features, articles and first-edition publications. Upcoming activities include the Alex is the author of books on surfing and more about Russia, Turkey, Egypt and Greece.
guidebooks on Africa and also the Middle Edinburgh marathon, an attempt to pull his boxing and writes a column on coastal life “I’d like to win it every year,” says the author of
East, a region which particularly fascinates her. first snowboarding 360˚ and a hiking trip to for The Times newspaper. He has surfed Lunch with Elizabeth David, High Times at the
“I plan to spend a year in Syria, from where I hope France’s underappreciated Massif Central. in places as diverse as Barbados, Costa Rica, Hotel Bristol and Burning Barcelona. “Next time
to get to Iran; arguably two of the most alluring “Extinct volcanoes, plateaus and enormous slabs California, Bali, France and Portugal. “The next I’ll do the Black Sea – Odessa, Crimea, Yalta,
but least understood destinations in the world.” of cheese – I’m not sure if it gets any better.” destination on my surfing wishlist has to be Sochi, Trebzon. All places with magic names.”
Author of pages 28–9, 118–19. Author of pages 238–41. Chile.” Author of pages 236-7 Author of pages 14–17, 18–19, 20–23, 44–7,
142–5, 180–83, 274–7, 322–25.
LEE MARSHALL ANNELISE SORENSEN ALISON WALFORD
GREG WITT
Aware from an early age that he had been Writer and reporter AnneLise Sorensen has
born in the wrong country, in 1984 Lee penned (and wine-tasted) her way across four An adventure guide with encyclopedic
headed off to Italy from Bristol at the age of continents, from Barcelona to Belize and knowledge, Greg leads treks worldwide,
23, and has lived there ever since. A film critic Copenhagen to Calcutta, contributing to including his home turf of Utah’s majestic
and travel writer, he is keen to go back to the magazines, guidebooks, radio and TV. Between mountains. “I love venturing off into the
hidden Vallée des Roses in southern Morocco. trips, she samples the weird and wonderful unknown. My next stop is Borneo, where I’m
“It’s the most enchanting valley full of little secrets of New York, a city that continually determined to snap a photo of a flying snake or
villages and rosebeds, and the people are satisfies her wanderlust. “On my travel list are pygmy rhino before delving into the limestone
amazingly hospitable.” Author of pages 262–3. the Borneo longhouses and Istanbul’s wine bars.” chambers of Mulu Caves.” Author of pages
Author of pages 270–73, 288–91. 82–3, 90–91, 124–7, 148–51, 220–23, 230–33.
JASON McCLEAN Alison has travelled widely to far-flung places
DEANNA SWANEY in Africa, Asia and the Pacific, but some of her ADRIAN WOODFORD
With two young children, Gaelen (3) and favourite destinations are much closer to
Ariane (9 months), the furthest Jason travels Deanna has travelled the world as a freelance home, including the wilder corners of In between taking tourists up mountains and
these days is to kids’ warehouses around the journalist and has an almost spiritual affinity Scotland and Cornwall. However, her next writing, Adrian attempts to entertain his two
UK. “While the children play I daydream of new with lonely places, especially Nevada, adventure will either be “a trek in the Ladakh children. “This year I’m going to follow in the
destinations to visit, and I also long to visit the Namibia, Bolivia, the Arctic and the tiniest region of the Indian Himalayas or a trip to Addis errant footsteps of Don Quixote, mapping his
land of nod for some quality sleep… as well as a islands of the South Pacific. “My next trip is likely Ababa, one of Africa’s coolest city destinations.” every misadventure with giants, windmills
trip to the moon if at all possible in my lifetime.” to include the inspiringly isolated northern Author of pages 202–3, 312. and dodgy innkeepers across the very real
Author of pages 234–5. reaches of Laos.” Author of pages 168–9. (but seldom seen) plains of La Mancha.”
GREG WARD Author of pages 96–9, 136–9, 258–61, 264–9.
DECLAN McGARVEY MATTHEW TELLER
Greg has been travelling and writing since the SARAH WOODS
A travel writer and editor who specializes in Matthew is an award-winning author and 1980s. Besides a dozen different guides to
South America, Declan has lived in Buenos travel journalist who specializes in the Middle Hawaii, he has written books on the USA, the Triple award-winning travel writer Sarah has
Aires since 1999. “My next big trip will have to be East. “I have return visits lined up to Jordan, Southwest USA, the Grand Canyon, the Blues, been travelling the globe since the 1980s and
to the north-eastern tip of South America; to the Abu Dhabi and Oman, but I’d love to go back to American history, and many other topics. “I’d has written extensively about South and
tropical wetlands, vibrant towns and wonderful Saudi Arabia. It’s a beautiful country and I found love to see the Inca cities, high in the Peruvian Central America’s indigenous tribes.
white-sand beaches of Surinam, Guyana and the people fascinating, cultured and extremely Andes. The second I get over my fear of heights, “I’m currently trekking in the Darien jungle and
French Guiana. I am utterly fascinated by these hospitable.” Author of pages 42–3. I’m going!” Author of pages 158–9, 192–3. planning an Amazon expedition, but I’m also
three small non-Hispanic states.” Author of no stranger to luxury, having recently enjoyed
pages 129, 154–7, 160, 248–9. GAVIN THOMAS CILA WARNCKE Venice to London aboard the Orient Express.”
Author of pages 68–9, 224–5, 280–81.
JOHN OATES A Londoner by upbringing and an incurable Music and travel writer Cila considers herself
vagabond by inclination, Gavin has so far more of a colonizer than a traveller – since MARTIN ZATKO
Using the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the visited over 50 countries across the globe. leaving her native United States she’s pitched
Year award as an excuse to disappear from He now works as a freelance travel journalist camp in London, Ibiza and Merida, in Mexico’s
the UK in 2002, John spent an adventurous specializing in Arabia, India and Sri Lanka. Yucatan Peninsula. “My next travel plan is to
year travelling solo from Turkmenistan to “I’d love to visit Iran, one of the world’s most take my laptop and my pointed political
Nepal. He has contributed to numerous fascinating, neglected and misunderstood opinions to the vestiges of the Red Menace: Cuba
newspapers, magazines and guidebooks, countries.” Author of pages 24–7, 30-31, 36–9, and China.” Author of pages 54–5.
including DK’s Eyewitness Travel Guide Estonia, 60–61, 92–5, 106–9, 172–5, 254–5, 282–5.
Latvia and Lithuania. “I am currently developing CAROL WILEY
a mild obsession with the former nation of Tuva.” HUGH THOMPSON
Author of pages 304–7. After completing a BA in Photography and an
After 10 years as a food and travel editor, MA in Journalism, Carol set off to photograph
GILLIAN PRICE Hugh now enjoys time travel – favourite the world for a while, living and working the
destination Ancient Egypt. “The temples and winter seasons in both Austria and Australia. Martin has been travelling almost non-stop
Gillian admits to a weakness for anything tombs of Egypt are so well preserved, you’re Today, her work appears in over 40 books as for over seven years, and has written or
Mediterranean – especially if it involves the instantly transported back 2,000 years. And well as magazines, newspapers and other contributed to the Rough Guides to Korea,
outdoors. “In the future I plan on exploring more my next trip also involves time travel of a media. “My favourite destination is Laos, where China, Vietnam and Europe. “I’m saving up to
of Italy’s little-visited regions such as the sort. I’m going on a family surfing holiday to I seek out old men who are reviving ancient get back to North Korea, the least visited country
Maritime Alps, a superb blend of sea and Cornwall, just as I used to do over 20 years ago.” ceremonies and record their stories.” Author of on earth and, at least in my tiny mind, the most
mountains.” Author of pages 110–11, 300–3. Author of pages 170–71. pages 188–91, 318–21. fascinating.” Author of page 166-7, 293.
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ACK NOWLEDGMENTS
Picture Credits
The publisher would like to thank the following
for their kind permission to reproduce their
photographs:
Key: a–above; b–below/bottom; c–centre; l–left;
r–right; t–top; d–detail; f–far