Alaska Sporting Journal-December 2020 PDF
Alaska Sporting Journal-December 2020 PDF
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Volume 12 • Issue 7
www.aksportingjournal.com
PUBLISHER
James R. Baker
GENERAL MANAGER
John Rusnak
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Andy Walgamott
EDITOR
Chris Cocoles
WRITERS
Paul D. Atkins, Bjorn Dihle, Scott Haugen,
Tiffany Haugen, Brian Watkins
SALES MANAGER
Paul Yarnold
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith
DESIGNERS
Lesley-Anne Slisko Cooper
WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND
MARKETING
Jon Hines
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT
Kelly Baker
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT
Katie Aumann
INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER
Lois Sanborn
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES
[email protected]
ON THE COVER
The rugged mountainous terrain of
Southeast Alaska offers hearty hunters a
spectacular and grueling opportunity to
chase mountain goats, as hunters Trevor
Embry (pictured) and Brian Watkins, and
their buddy Dave Moore discovered.
(BRIAN WATKINS)
CORRESPONDENCE
Twitter @AKSportJourn
Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal
Email [email protected]
FEATURES
42 MY ALASKAN ADVENTURES
Our longtime contributor Paul Atkins
has shared many of his epic hunting and
fishing trips in the Last Frontier, which
became his obsession while living in
America’s Heartland. The Oklahoman
left his family – not to mention his
beloved Oklahoma State University
Cowboys football team – to chase the
dream in Alaska almost a quarter of a
century ago. Check out excerpts from
Paul’s new book, Atkins’ Alaska, which
chronicles an outdoor life in the Arctic.
60 MONSTERS, INC. –
LAST FRONTIER STYLE
Dreamers and conspiracy theorists love
a good mythical monster story, whether
that means the Loch Ness Monster,
Bigfoot or the Yeti. Bristol Bay’s “Iliamna
Lake Monster” has some people
believing that an unknown creature
lurks just below the Southwest Alaska
lake’s surface. Bjorn Dihle chatted with
some of those hunting for the creature
for his latest Pride of Bristol Bay feature.
35
your big game harvest, the Haugens can
help cross off the angler or hunter on
your list. Also in their From Field to Fire
column, check out Tiffany’s tasty holiday
brunch recipe!
(BRIAN WATKINS)
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become
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may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written
permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A.
L
et’s face reality: 2020 has been full aboard his vessel, Cornelia Marie, he plays worked him toward the boat – only to
of “2020 sucks” moments. No need pops to his crew in the unforgiving waters have him rush back out again … I grabbed
to rehash all the deadly, shocking, of the Bering Sea. the net and leaned over the edge in trying
appalling, pathetic and weird stuff that “Oh, their dad; their coach; their to get close enough for an easy scoop.
has defined roughly the last nine months. psychologist,” he told me. “You have to be Finally, after a game of tug ’o war, he made
But as we put a capper on this most all that stuff. Keep everyone sane, because a mistake and I was successful in getting
unusual time, I look back at our magazines if they’re not thinking about their job, the motley-colored fish on the deck.”
and can find some inspiring, exciting and they’re going to tire and maybe kill the guy
fun memories rising above all the despair. next to them.” 2020 HAS ALSO CREATED multiple Pebble
Our June Father’s Day story was Mine stories and those in Bristol Bay
IN APRIL, SCOTT HAUGEN, one-half of our written by Brian Watkins, who joined his and elsewhere fighting against the mine
From Field to Fire team, talked about his dad Tom, close friend Mark and his pop have given me some hope in not giving
love of fishing Bristol Bay’s Egegik River Mo for a Kodiak Island mountain goat in. Watching our pal Mark Titus’s new
year after year. One special place there for hunt. I remembered how my father was so documentary, The Wild, was a game-
him is Brooks Falls for its bear viewing. motivated and full of energy even well into changer. I wrote about the film in July and
“I was rewarded with the best brown his 70s on our own adventures together. Titus talked about the inspiration he had
bear shots of my life,” Haugen wrote. Now I was seeing some of that in Watkins from those he worked with on the project.
“At the height of activity, 11 brown bears discussing his father-son dynamic. “It was just me on a lot of interviews;
occupied the falls. More bears could be “My dad – again, he was 60 years old you have to give yourself over to the
seen downstream that were also fishing. at this point – was the leader of the pack,” moment and be absolutely (all in) with
The forest, surrounded by tall and lush he wrote. “He kept us going and pushed us these folks, to ask the right question or be
green grass, flourished, with endless bear along. Dad’s determination was a driving in the right spirit,” he said. “You take a lot
trails that were carved throughout the factor in our abilities to move quickly.” of that drama and that feeling of love and
landscape.” And then there was that Paul Atkins that feeling of what’s at stake, internally.
Father-son relationships also were a September piece when he fished for pike They made me more aware, awake and
theme in our magazines, and they had a in Arctic Alaska with his son, Eli. Atkins empathetic toward what’s at stake for the
dramatic impact on me after having lost wrote about Eli’s first northern. Catching a people who do live there year-round and
my dad in September 2019. fish with my dad with me on a boat or the make this their livelihood.”
In a May interview with Deadliest Catch shoreline was always a great childhood That’s just a small sample of feel-good
crabbing skipper Josh Harris, he talked to memory. moments this year. Still, it’s time for you to
me a lot about his late father Phil and how “With a tight line and a bent rod, Eli go away, 2020. -Chris Cocoles
For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg
.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main.
Note: Check with local contacts on events that could be postponed/
cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
FEDS BLOCK
PEBBLE MINE PERMIT
BY CHRIS COCOLES
T
he roller coaster ride that is the
Pebble Mine saga took an exhila-
rating turn for one side of the fight,
and a painful loop-the-loop for another.
On Nov. 25, the U.S. Army Corps of En-
gineers announced it would reject a pro-
posed Bristol Bay gold and copper mine
that critics argued could devastate the
region’s massive salmon runs.
The Corps reversed course after an Au-
gust release of its Environmental Impact
Statement that would have green-lighted
a scaled-down mine – provided the Pebble
Limited Partnership and parent company
Northern Dynasty Minerals came up with
a mitigation plan to help prevent damage
to Bristol Bay’s vast wetlands.
In his agency’s record of decision, Col.
Damon Delarosa, Corps of Engineers
Alaska district commander, concluded The bedrock underneath Bristol Bay’s vast network of salmon-filled waters is rich in gold
that the mine’s overall scope was not up and copper deposits, but at least for now a mining permit has been rejected by the Presi-
to federal Clean Water Act standards and dent Trump-led U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. (ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY)
the potential threat to the ecosystem.
“I have concluded that the benefits of WELCOME NEWS FOR MINE OPPONENTS Bristol Bay-area lodge owners Nanci
the proposed elimination and alteration From lodge owners to the fishing industry, Morris Lyon and Brian Kraft depend on
of wetlands, streams and other waters from Alaskans to out-of-staters, the fight salmon, trout and other aquatic delights
within the (Army Corps) jurisdiction do to stop Pebble Mine seemingly is an end- that attract anglers from around the world.
not outweigh the detriments that would less loop of protests. So while the release Morris Lyon, whose family operates
be caused by such eliminations and al- of a somewhat unfavorable EIS in August Bear Trail Lodge, said she was “relieved
terations, based upon the information was distressing, the permit getting the and thankful” for the news, while Kraft’s
contained in the FEIS, the extensive pub- heave-ho offered a reason to be grateful, reaction reflected the long battle he and
lic comments received, and the analysis and fittingly it came the day before the others have fought to block the mine.
of the public interest review factors,” Thanksgiving holiday. “Thousands of us have looked forward
Delarosa wrote at the end of the 29- “Good riddance. The opposition to to this day for well over a decade,” said the
page document. this project from all corners of the polit- Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge owner. “Ku-
(Find it at pebbleprojecteis.com.) ical spectrum runs strong and deep. The dos to this administration for seeing this
“As those eliminations and alterations process has played out, and the science project for what it was – a half-baked and
would be necessary to realize any benefits is clear. There is no way this ill-conceived risky proposal that does not belong in the
from the proposed project, I have found project can coexist with Bristol Bay salm- heart of Bristol Bay. This is a good day. We
that the proposed project is contrary to on,” said a blunt Nelli Williams, Alaska di- should all celebrate and be thankful today,
the public interest.” rector of Trout Unlimited. and get ready to achieve long-term pro-
tections next.” larly when the EIS seemed mostly favor- plummeted by over 50 percent after the
That said, for some the mood right able when it was released in August of an news of the permit rejection broke, will take
now seems to be one of cautious opti- election year. But Trump’s son Donald Jr., after this potentially devastating setback to
mism given the back-and-forth battles an outdoorsman who fished Bristol Bay its project’s viability.
among the principles and the uncertainty as a guest of Bear Trail Lodge’s Morris But it’s the complete opposite mojo for
of future plans. Lyon, publicly opposed the mine, as did those who have worked tirelessly to help
“Sometimes a project is so bad, so in- other conservative voices in Washington, protect the waters of what is considered
defensible, that the politics fall to the way- not to mention increasing pushback from the “world’s last great sockeye salmon fish-
side and we get the right decision. But de- Alaska’s U.S. senators, Lisa Murkowski ery,” including Alaska Sporting Journal since
nial of a permit does not mean Bristol Bay and Dan Sullivan. we began publication 10 years ago. One of
is safe from the threat of the Pebble Mine,” The Corps’ record of decision was a the most vocal opposition against the mine
warned SalmonState executive director crushing blow for the mine’s chances of has been the United Tribes of Bristol Bay,
Tim Bristol. “The critical next step is to re- being dug anytime soon, particularly with whose Native people have fished these
establish the Clean Water Act protections the November victory of President-elect pristine waters over multiple generations.
for America’s greatest salmon fishery – Joe Biden. Indeed, Northern Dynasty’s UTBB board president Robert Heyano
protections that should have never been reaction to getting spurned included the summed up the joy that, at least for now,
done away with in the first place. This argument that it was “politically motivat- these waters and the fish that return there
can and should be an early priority for the ed.” The irony there is that Collier boast- will remain protected.
Biden administration.” ed about having Republican support “The people of Bristol Bay have long
when the “Pebble Tapes” were secretly known that our home is no place for a mine
DECISION ‘POLITICALLY MOTIVATED’ recorded and released. like Pebble. Today, we celebrate the appro-
When the news broke about the mine’s “For the United States to turn its back priate action taken by the USACE in finally
permit being rejected, it capped a tumul- on an opportunity to develop these min- acknowledging this underlying truth: Peb-
tuous fall for the Pebble Limited Partner- erals here at home in a manner that U.S. ble’s proposal is too toxic for our region and
ship and its lead company, Northern Dy- regulators have agreed is environmen- cannot be built without devastating the en-
nasty Minerals. Pebble Partnership CEO tally safe and responsible, and to do so vironment that sustains our cultures and
Tom Collier resigned after incriminating for purely political reasons, is not just communities,” Heyano said. “But our work
videotaped conversations surfaced. short-sighted,” said Northern Dynasty is not done. We will continue to advocate
It was believed that the heavy Republi- president and CEO Ron Thiessen. “It’s for permanent protections for Bristol Bay
can influence both in Alaska and under the self-destructive.” until we are sure that our pristine lands and
administration of President Donald Trump It’s unknown the extent of appeals waters will remain intact for our children’s
would benefit the Pebble group, particu- Northern Dynasty, whose stock prices children and all future generations.” ASJ
BY CHRIS COCOLES
I
f you wanted to boil Jake Norton’s life impressive. home country. That was pretty amazing
down to a single sentence, it might be While he had a passionate connection and powerful,” he says.
this one: He really likes to get on top of to Mount Everest – he’s made multiple “I think the summit of Everest is always
things. Literally. trips there to either reach the world’s irrationally built up in one sense that you’re
A world-class mountain climber and highest summit or help solve an almost going to get up there and there is going to
guide, there are few daunting summits century-old mystery that could change be cerebral trumpets and epiphanies. And
on the globe the 46-year-old Colorado the history books forever – his successful I find there’s not. It really is just a patch
resident hasn’t scaled, including North scaling of Denali had its own special of snow along the way. And Denali is not
America’s tallest peak, Alaska’s famed symbolism. For Norton, who’s scaled built up in that same apocryphal beautiful
Denali (Mount McKinley). From South peaks around the world, a successful way. You get there and you can just enjoy
America’s massive Mount Aconcagua Alaska summit was a home game of sorts. (it). You’re not expecting some biblical
to Africa’s iconic Kilimanjaro and literally “It was my first really big mountain insight to come to you.”
the top of the world, Mount Everest, that I had summited and my first Yet mighty Mount Everest still
Norton’s list of successful climbs is continental high point, and it was in my impacted Norton, who has elevated to
its sacred ground as the highest spot on series known as Undiscovered. that found the remains of Mallory, a far
Earth. But the mountain also holds the Norton led an expedition to Everest more experienced climber than Irvine.
kind of secrets that have turned him into a in 2019 to find further evidence of what But two major questions remained
bit of a mountaineering Sherlock Holmes. happened to Mallory and Irvine. What as Norton and a team returned to
we knew already: They both died on the mountain last year: Where is
IN 1953, NEW ZEALANDER Edmund Hillary the mountain, which over the years has Irvine’s body, and did the pair or either
– he’d soon be known as Sir Edmund become a tragic toll of trying to conquer one actually make it to the summit?
Hillary for the rest of his life – and Earth’s highest spot (there have been Observers at the time confirmed that
Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay roughly 300 deaths of Everest climbers, they did get within striking distance of
successfully reached the summit of the with almost annual fatalities). the 29,029-foot summit. But with several
world’s highest peak, Nepal/China’s Norton has found himself literally short but treacherous spots known as the
Mount Everest, and lived to tell their tale climbing over the bodies of the dead First, Second and Third Steps ahead of
after also making the dangerous descent climbers who either failed to reach the them, it’s possible that the men died just
from the top of the world. top or perished making the even more shy of the top.
But while historians likely won’t dangerous descent, when draining “There are always things left undone
ever diminish Hillary’s and Norgay’s oxygen levels and exhaustion can be and more to do,” Norton says. “I think
accomplishments, it’s possible two fatal. what I always come back to – with the
climbers preceded the 1953 Everest “On the one hand it is gruesome, story of Mallory and Irvine, which is
conquest by almost 30 years. For but I find there’s a beauty within the something I’ve been fascinated with since
Norton, getting to the bottom of the tragedy of those lives lost … I find some I began climbing in the mid-1980s – it’s
mystery of the 1924 fate of George solace in the human remains can tell a really who these guys were, regardless of
Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine story and leave these less than subtle whether or not they summited (Everest)
consumed him for the better part of 20 reminders of our own mortality,” he … They were such a different breed of
years. In October, a Discovery Channel says. “And keep our egos in check and explorer and climber.”
documentary, Everest’s Greatest Mystery, make us safe, hopefully.” As the film depicts, the 2019 explorers
premiered as part of the network’s new Norton was part of a 1999 expedition were equipped with top-of-the-line
equipment, tents and clothing to handle for the fact that they even got to base as a guide at 18 and has since climbed,
the hazardous weather conditions, camp (17,000-plus feet), which until besides Denali, five of the world’s
including crampons attached to their 1921 no one had been within 40 miles Seven Summits (highest peaks on each
boots that help gain traction on the slick of. It’s just phenomenal that they were continent), was enthralled by Mallory’s
ice and snow. But when he was part of the anywhere on the mountain, let alone passion to reach the top.
team that found Mallory’s remains in 1999, within 1,000 feet of the summit.” Norton says he felt something
Norton was astonished by what Mallory Mallory in particular is something of a spiritual connection with the
and fellow Englishman Irvine had to do to of a role model for mountaineers. They mountaineers he’s searched for now on
make the dangerous ascent in the 1920s. appreciate some of his philosophical multiple trips to Everest. In watching
“It was almost comical looking at thoughts about why he was such a the Discovery Channel film, there was a
what (Mallory) was wearing compared climbing savant in his day, which made sense that these explorers who were less
to what we were, when we had these Norton so emotional when he and the interested in getting back to the summit
$1,000 boots and modern-fabric, space- 1999 team that was led by Eric Simpson than finding the truth about Mallory and
age technology,” Norton admits, also found Mallory – Conrad Anker was the Irvine, almost owed it to those pioneers
marveling at the men’s remarkable first who reached the remains – at the to find more signs of what really
acclimation to Everest’s high altitude. 26,760-foot level on Everest’s north face happened almost 100 years ago.
“They didn’t know how the human (the Tibet side now controlled by China). “I feel that way; not in a Ouija board-
body would respond to the rigors of “I just remember at first the gasps type sense, but I think those of us who
altitude. Some scientists thought it was and disbelief; we were just stunned have been to the mountain a lot, you
humanly impossible to go that high. The into silence,” he says of the Mallory can’t help but really begin to revere and
down gear that we take for granted today discovery. “Nobody could really talk and feel some degree of connection to those
had really just been invented. It wasn’t get out a coherent thought for a while. who paved the way and those who came
very good; it was heavy and thick. And There we were with a hero of all of ours.” first,” Norton says.
they were using solid fuel burners without Norton, who as a tween first scaled “I find myself up on the mountain
water. They didn’t know the importance of Washington state’s 14,000-plus- always thinking about Mallory and
hydration. Just challenge after challenge foot Mount Rainier, started working Irvine, or (fellow 1924 expedition
members Noel Odell and Howard IT DOESN’T TAKE AN experienced incredible mountain.”
Somervell), all these different climbers, mountaineer to know that climbing Norton knows his Alaska history and
going over there in such a different era. Mount Everest is one of the most even compared his obsession studying
Their experiences do kind of speak to physically and mentally demanding and searching for Mallory and Irvine to
us, and hopefully we’re wise enough to tasks for a human being to achieve. But some Last Frontier legends of yesteryear.
listen to those voices.” even at 10,000 feet lower in elevation, “It was really reminiscent of the
Unfortunately, despite several Alaska’s Denali proved to be arguably a Sourdoughs, especially their first ascent
possible leads and even finding other tougher task for Norton and those who of Denali,” says Norton, referring to the
bodies buried in the deep snow banks he guided on two expeditions there. miners who, with similar gear to Irvine
who weren’t Irvine, no evidence of It took the second trip for him and his and Mallory’s, somehow managed to
his remains were found. Discovery party to reach the top, in July 1995. reach the top of the mountain – it would
Channel’s film was likely the end of “The 30-second answer is, when you be officially known as Mount McKinley –
the line for Norton’s 20-year odyssey take altitude out of the equation, Denali in the early 20th century.
to find definitive proof whether the is hands-down a more difficult ascent to “Nobody thought they could make it,
English mountaineers predated Hillary’s climb,” Norton says. “Granted, I haven’t and then when the next ascent party got
successful climb. been there since 1995, but I know the up, they found a huge pole stuck in the
“I think there’s always a degree of mountain hasn’t changed height and I wrong summit of Denali, but almost at
unfulfillment. There’s always more to don’t think it’s gotten to be noticeably the top. They just did it with their mining
know and more to learn. But I think over warmer.” gear.”
two decades of being a part of this, I’ve “There’s a physical nature of Denali Norton would have his own special
kind of come to having terms of the fact (that you) don’t have pack animals memory on top of Alaska and the entire
that it’s OK not to know it all,” he says. and don’t have Sherpa support. You’re continent.
“I’ve been fortunate enough to help tell carrying massive packs and dragging a
these stories. We may never know all the sled. You’re dealing with temperatures WHEN NORTON FIRST WAS what he
answers, but we know a lot more and we that go from 90 degrees on a calm day referred to as a “grunt guide” – “I had the
can still celebrate the fact that they were in the sun down on the (lower portions) pleasure of carrying a heavier pack,” he
there and did incredible things.” to 40 below zero in a storm up near the proudly says – on a Denali expedition,
All because Everest was there. summit. It’s a punishing but beautiful, the May mid-1990s trip didn’t go well.
For an American mountaineer, getting to the top of the highest point on this continent was
special. “It felt more (like being) on top of the world than the summit of Everest does,” says
Norton (left), who recalls the feat as “pretty amazing and powerful.” (JAKE NORTON)
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BY BRIAN WATKINS
E
veryone has been affected in some
way or another by COVID-19. It’s
a troublesome year, but as with
everything in life, you need to find the
silver linings.
My buddy Trevor and I had planned a
goat hunt in Southeast Alaska in August.
The plan was to go for two mature
billies – bow in tow. Planning the early-
So you want to be a goat hunter? Get ready for one season hunt was our way of escaping
of the most physically challenging hunts you can
imagine, as three friends discovered on a Southeast the COVID world a little early. As it turns
Alaska mountain goat adventure. (BRIAN WATKINS) out, my best friend from college, Dave,
who is not a hunter, was laid off due to typical goat hunt path: thick brush and
a decrease in workload. His silver lining elevation gain. We spent the first day
was leaving California and coming with climbing the mountain and getting to
us to experience what hunting in Alaska the area that we had gone over.
is all about: adventure. Opening morning was one we will
never forget. We headed out onto
OUR GOOD FRIEND JON Geary took us out the tops of the mountains amidst the
onto the saltwater via boat, the best slopes and cliffs. We spotted several
route of travel in Southeast, and dropped inaccessible goats and ventured into
us off on a beach that we had decided on uncharted territory.
by going over maps. Our plan was to slowly walk the
We headed up the mountain on a ridgelines and glass each grass chute as
I made my way above the billy, which can use signals almost as well as voice
was now accompanied by a smaller goat. commands. I got positioned directly
As I moved into the area, I lost track above the goats.
of where the animals were. I used my I knew the goats would feed up
binoculars to look back at Trevor and towards me as the day progressed. The
Dave, who watched as I got into position. first to come up was the small 2-year-
Trevor gave predetermined hand signals old billy. He saw me lying above, but the
to let me know where the goats were, wind was in my favor, leaving him unable
as I was blind to their position. We have to determine if I was a danger or not.
hunted together enough now that we As I waited for the bigger goat to
“Two goats down, within 30 minutes appear, this billy found me interesting.
of each other,” writes author Brian He walked to within 5 feet of me. I
Watkins (left, with Dave Moore and
Embry). “It was a morning we will thought he was going to lick my bow! He
never forget.” (BRIAN WATKINS) finally spooked off and ran back down
the hill to about 30 yards out.
As he looked back at me, the bigger
billy finally came up. I ranged him at 35
yards and sent an arrow flying. The shot
drove through both lungs and the goat
headed straight down the mountain. I’m
not sure how they stay completely sure-
footed in that terrain, but he made it all
the way down to the base of the cliff. Even
being mortally wounded the goat still
cruised through the mountain with ease.
W
years, and with much effort and many
hen I first came to the Alaskan Arctic in the mid-1990s, I sealed envelopes full of CDs and cover
had no idea that I would end up spending almost 25 years letters later I got published. Many of
those mailings were rejected, and for
of my life here. The first time I came up here is what did it, good reason, but eventually it did happen.
and looking back I believe it really was that trip that truly hooked me. Most of those that did get greenlit
for publication were in magazines that
But if you told me back then that I would spend half my life here accepted manuscripts for consideration.
– a whole quarter of a century – I would have told you that you were In return I received nothing moneywise
– only an opportunity. And even though
crazy. But I did and with that came a life of incredible blessings. most of those publications were very
reader-specific, I was grateful for
One of the things I promised myself the exposure. Everyone has to start
back then was that I would write a book somewhere, right?
about my time here and chronicle my For some, having an Alaskan story
adventures in the Arctic, so to speak. I published once would be enough, but it
remember sitting on my parents’ couch wasn’t for me. The biggest reason was
in Oklahoma having a discussion with the extensive amount of storylines I had
my father before I moved north. He or could gather. Every day up here was a
asked me why I was going (as if he didn’t new adventure, allowing me to write as
know) and how long I might be gone. much as I wanted. It was truly endless.
It was the hunting, of course, and I So, as the journals filled – I have boxes
really didn’t know how long I would be of old steno notebooks filled with ink – I
away. “Long enough to write a book kept writing. Eventually over time I got
about hunting in the Arctic,” I told better at the craft and it was no longer
him. My writing skills were new back “if” I could get it published, but where
then, and even though I had only been
published a couple of times I had the Oklahoman Paul Atkins dreamed of
bug and wanted to continue doing so, chasing outdoor adventure in Alaska, and
the reality of the experiences he’s enjoyed
if I could. Anyway, my dad agreed and was more than he could have asked for.
supported me on my quest. He’s sharing some of his memories in a
I kept journals in those early Arctic new book, Atkins’ Alaska. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
DANGEROUS GAME
Sometimes, tales of past experiences
get put aside like an old pair of boots,
but they’re hardly forgotten. I think
about them often and to tell the truth,
they define who I am and what I’ve done
here. Events where mistakes were made,
and if not for a lucky decision here and
there, things could have turned out quite
differently. I’ve been a part of or at least
participated in many of these here in
the Arctic, and to be honest there have
been times when I didn’t think I’d make
it home alive.
I definitely learned from them and
there are few that are hard to write about.
The struggles of each were real and the
sheer closeness to receiving bodily harm
was a little too close for comfort.
Many people shake their head
and wonder why I put myself in these
situations. Looking back, I wonder myself
sometimes. Was it the challenge, the
adventure or maybe the sheer want of
an animal that propelled me? All I know
is that most people can’t comprehend
what it’s like to come face to face with a
sow grizzly or the sinking feeling that if
something isn’t done soon, you’ll freeze
to death. Crazy, to say the least.
This is one of those stories. A flash
from the past where we became the prey
and not the predator. Sometimes it’s
better to just shake your head, back out
and say, nope.
It was pitch dark and the big grizzly
was rushing full speed towards our tent.
With a flashlight in one hand and a .44
in the other, all I could say was, “Here he
comes again, and this time I don’t think he
is going to stop!” The only comfort was
being inside the tent, or so I thought. This
was like a bad dream …
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and the 2-mile stalk would be easy on Rivers are icing up along the edges and And even though I’d like to be, I
my knees. the small tributaries are layered in white wouldn’t trade places with them. I love
September is long gone now. Moose crystal. Boats are being stored while Alaska and what it will bring, but now all I
season is over and most of the caribou snowmachines lay in wait, filling yards can do is sit, reflect and wait for snow. ASJ
have moved south to their winter range. and garages across the Arctic. It’s a time
The trips across the big lake are finished of bored anticipation. Editor’s note: Atkins’ Alaska is available at
and the old duck blind lies vacant until As a hunter, it’s also a tough time for Barnes and Noble, Amazon and everywhere
next season. me personally. In the 20 years I’ve lived good books are sold. It can also be ordered
The big snowshoe hare are here I still cannot get used to this time of through author Paul Atkins’ website,
camouflaging themselves in white, while year. Most of my friends who live down paulatkinsoutdoors.com, and if you want
the half-white, half-brown ptarmigan south are just beginning their hunting an autographed copy, email him at paul@
dance in the willows, waiting on the seasons, with many still in waiting. paulatkinsoutdoors.com.
snow to fall. It truly is a time of change. I watch online at their exploits with Atkins is an outdoor writer and author
Late October and early November jealous congratulations, praying for their from Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s had hundreds
are difficult times here in the Arctic, success and seeing their failures. Each of articles published on big game hunting
especially for the outdoorsman. Much day they’re either sitting in a tree stand in Alaska and throughout North America
like being in purgatory, the “hurry up or pulling on waders to go chase birds or and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic.
and wait” mentality will drive you crazy. maybe even cutting meat, which finds Paul is a regular contributor to Alaska
The ocean is cold but not frozen yet. me wishing I was there with them. Sporting Journal.
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GMU PrOFILE
EXPERIENCE
ALASKA’S BULL
HUNTING BONANZA
Editor’s note: From the Alaska Panhandle to the “top of the world” in Barrow/Utqiagvik, more prevalent in Unit 18 than other
Alaska contains 26 game management units that feature land for hunting and other units further to the north. But unlike
outdoor activities. Our Arctic adventurer Paul Atkins is breaking down some of the units those northern units, you can only take
he’s hunted in the past in this ongoing feature. This issue: GMU 18. one brown bear per year versus two
where I live around Kotzebue.
BY PAUL D. ATKINS
MORE BULLS TO HARVEST
G
ame Management Unit 18, which SPRAWLING UNIT Caribou are not as common as they
lies in the southwestern part of Unit 18 is big; it encompasses the Yukon are further north, either. Only one per
the state, is truly one of Alaska’s Delta National Wildlife Refuge and customer can be taken, but from what
best-kept secrets. also the lower drainages of the Yukon I’ve seen, some of those bulls are the
This is currently one of the last few and Kuskokwim Rivers, creating all the biggest in the state.
places where the moose population is ingredients for some of the best hunting Muskox hunting, especially on
thriving. Its vast willow-choked tundra is in the state. Like many units along Nunivak Island, is the real ticket in
pristine, which creates some of the best Alaska’s western coast, the hunting is Unit 18. Open to both residents and
habitat for growing big mature bulls. superb for not only the aforementioned nonresidents, these hunts are highly
Moose can be hunted in five general moose, but for bears as well. coveted and one of the few places
areas, and, for some residents, two For instance, hunters are allowed on Earth where you can actually do it
moose may be taken annually. to harvest three black bears, which are without waiting years to draw a tag or
GMU 18 includes some rugged wilderness in the right direction and even help when wolverines per year – that is, if you can
like the Yukon Delta National Wildlife it comes to getting it back to where you find them. ASJ
Refuge and also the muskox hunting mecca
of Nunivak Island in the Bering Sea. (ALASKA came from.
DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME) Like most of the state’s units, GMU 18 Editor’s note: For a detailed map and more
does harbor its share of wolves, allowing season dates on GMU 18, go to adfg.alaska
pay through the nose. 10 taken per year during a long season .gov and look under the Hunting tab to a link
Nunivak Island is located right off the running from August through April. And to maps by game management unit. Follow
coast in the Bering Sea, about 135 miles unlike most units, you are allowed two Paul Atkins on Twitter @AKTrophyHunter.
from the town of Bethel. This remote
island is home to approximately 500
to 600 muskox and very few people.
Introduced in 1929, muskox have thrived
and developed into an incredible hunting
opportunity for those wanting a hunt like
no other.
Bulls can be hunted by permit only,
but permits are also available for cows on
a first-come, first-served basis. Muskox
hunting occurs twice a year, with one
season starting in August and the other
in January.
MACHINES REQUIRED
Much like around my country, muskox
hunting is done by snowmachine. There
are many operators on the island who
will gladly rent you a machine, point you
O
n a calm September day, a rest of the flock was dragged under. The what people have dubbed “The Iliamna
group of moose hunters sat in hunters watched in horror and fascination, Lake Monster.”
their skiff on Iliamna Lake on the as what they thought had been sunken
Alaska Peninsula. The men noticed what logs fed on the birds. One was the length WRIGHT IS “NOT A big fan of cryptobiology,”
looked like two big sunken logs beneath and the width of their 18-foot skiff and had but as a scientist who has studied
their boat, but didn’t think much of it. eyes the circumference of soccer balls. The everything from bears to sharks, he finds
They focused on scanning for moose creatures looked like giant northern pike. the stories of the monsters fascinating.
and watching a family of swans floating Bruce Wright, a marine ecologist and The lake interests Wright as much as any
nearby. Suddenly, one swan vanished apex predator specialist, recorded this mysterious beasts it may hold.
underwater. In a matter of seconds the account. It’s just one of many stories of “What’s so intriguing to me is the lake
sockeye salmon. are hunting. Many Natives believe he’s wondering if they might be a tiny
There’s also some debate as to the the creatures to be dangerous and population of gargantuan northern pike.
exact meaning of “Iliamna.” According attracted to the color red. In 1980, Others have theorized they’re giant
to a newsletter published by the Yup’ik the Anchorage Daily News offered a sturgeon. However, reports of the
village of Igiugig, which lies at the western $100,000 reward during a five-month creatures’ predatory behavior – herding
edge of the lake, Iliamna is “the name of period to anyone who presented clear seals into shallows to hunt them and
a mythical great blackfish supposed to evidence of the monsters. No definitive preying upon schools of sockeye salmon
inhabit this lake, which bites holes in the proof has been made public, though – don’t sound like a sturgeon. Wright
bidarkas (kayaks) of bad natives.” there have been sightings reported came to the conclusion that the only way
Many people, from local Natives to most years since. Despite the lack of to solve the mystery was to catch one of
visiting scientists, believe there’s nothing a carcass or verifiable photo, Wright the monsters.
mythical about the monsters. Since well believes there’s validity to the stories. Around this time Wright befriended
before Alaska became a state, there “I was skeptical. I’m not skeptical Mark Stigar, a retired colonel and former
have been numerous reported sightings anymore,” he said. “Every time I talk chief aviation officer for the Alaska
of giant fish-like creatures in the lake. to someone who has spent time out Army National Guard, who owns a
There’s some variation in descriptions, there, they’ve seen it or know someone cabin on Iliamna Lake. Stigar had heard
but most witnesses say the creatures are who has.” the stories for years – and having both
dark colored, shark-like in appearance a baccalaureate and master’s degree in
and between 10 and 20 feet long. FOR YEARS, WRIGHT THEORIZED that the wildlife biology, he was intrigued, though
Often there’s more than one monsters might be Pacific sleeper sharks he took the stories with a grain of salt.
together and frequently, the creatures that adapted to living in freshwater. Now, Wright gave Stigar some commercial
“monster” is a giant pike; Stigar believes Editor’s note: Pride of Bristol Bay is a free
it’s most likely to be a sleeper shark column written by Bjorn Dihle and provided
or something similar. It’s evening by its namesake, a fisherman-direct sea-
entertainment, Stigar said, even if food marketer that specializes in delivering
nothing ever comes of it. the highest quality of sustainably caught
“There’s something out there,” he wild salmon from Bristol Bay to your door-
added. “I’m not so arrogant to think we step. Go to prideofbristolbay.com for more
know everything that’s out there.”ASJ information.
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GIFTS
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ON GIVING
PICK THESE GREAT PRESENTS FOR THE SPORTSMEN ON YOUR HOLIDAY LIST
BY SCOTT HAUGEN
L
ooking for a special Christmas gift and fall I fished the tiny 2.0 version and it catch fish.
for the hunter or angler in your life? worked great on trout, Dolly Varden and
Consider these items, which I’ve coho salmon. SOFT BEADS FOR COHO
used in the field and recommend. Trolled from a boat in a lake or Last fall I fished multiple coho streams
backtrolled in a river, this size Mag Lip in Alaska and had phenomenal success
MAG LIP 2.0 is a fish-catcher when focusing on trout with BnR Tackle’s Soft Beads (bnrtackle
One of the most versatile plugs I’ve used, and Dollies. When bobber-dogged in a .com). I’d done great before with the
the Mag Lip continued to impress me all river, it also produced a number of hard- 16mm and 20mm soft beads, but last
year. Created by Yakima Bait Company fighting silvers. season was eager to put the 25mm and
(yakimabait.com), it’s known as one of As with its larger cousins, the 2.0 32mm versions to the test.
the best models of plugs ever created, comes in a range of finishes, allowing In my first seven casts with a 32mm
as its skip-beat action entices a range of you to match what fish are feeding on. cerise-colored soft bead, I landed five
species to attack. Last spring, summer These little plugs are active, tough and coho. It got my attention. A buddy stood
A
year ago we were living in Hyder, frustrated when they all fell apart. They into the hot skillet, leaving at least
Alaska, and we had plenty of were, however, a lovely golden brown ¼-inch between “cakes.” Once golden
coho to get us through the winter. and once all flipped, they started to brown, flip cakes – and without worrying
In an effort to make all that fish resemble scrambled eggs. if they fall apart but trying to keep them
appealing to my family, I was always Taking a taste from the pan, I knew bite-sized. Cook the other side until
experimenting. I’ve had more than my my family would love this, especially golden brown and serve immediately
share of recipe failures over the decades, when topped with the avocado mint with avocado mint cream.
so it’s a great day when an apparent cream I had already blended up. What
failure turns into a tasty recipe worth resulted was this fish scramble. AVOCADO MINT CREAM
repeating, like this one. This recipe works great with any Two ripe avocados
Looking to make a low-carb fish patty, I smaller bits of salmon, trout, Dollies, ¼ cup fresh mint
knew my batter was lacking in consistency. sheefish, pike, halibut or cod. The meat 2 tablespoons lime juice
Thinking the patties would come can be either fresh or frozen. 2 tablespoons olive oil
together during the pan fry, I was ¼ to ½ cup cold water
1 cup raw fish Salt and black pepper to taste
One egg
¼ cup almond meal/flour Blend all ingredients
2 tablespoons mayonnaise in a food processor or
2 tablespoons minced dill pickle blender. Add water
1 tablespoon stone ground mustard to reach desired
1 tablespoon olive or coconut oil consistency and
immediately serve.
Remove any skin and bones from fish and
chop into small chunks. In a medium bowl, Editor’s note: For
mix egg, almond meal/flour, mayonnaise, signed copies of
pickle and mustard. Gently fold in fish and Tiffany’s popular
stir until thoroughly combined. book, Cooking
In a large skillet, heat oil on medium- Seafood and other
high heat. Drop spoonfuls of fish mixture best-selling titles, visit tiffanyhaugen.com.
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