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Brassicas, From Perennial Vegetables
Brassicas, From Perennial Vegetables
Brassica oleracea • Perennial Brassicas and ‘9 Star Perennial’ broccoli. None did well in
my Massachusetts winters, and I was forced to
conclude that the currently available varieties are
Synonyms just not well suited to my climate. Most of the
See below
•
varieties listed here are only hardy to Zone 8 or 9,
Aspects and prefer mild climates. They are also unlikely
• Clumping herbs
to thrive in intense heat (except for tropical tree
or shrubs kale and gai lon).
• Edible leaves
Fortunately for those of us outside of the cool
• Edible flowerbuds
temperate Northwest, there are heat- and cold-
• Full sun
tolerant brassicas that can serve as parents of
• Moist, well-drained soil
breeding efforts to develop more widely adapted
perennial varieties. There are heat-loving greens
like collard greens and Ethiopian kale (B. cari-
General Overview, History, and Ecology: Almost every- nata). And many kales are extremely cold-hardy,
one who has ever grown a vegetable has grown overwintering here in Massachusetts and even
brassicas, and with good reason: This outstand- colder climes.
ing group of plants contains many of our most But we do not just have to breed brassicas
beloved vegetables, such easy-care, cold-toler- for heat or cold resistance. The wild perennial
ant plants as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, Brassica oleracea is the ancestor of a remarkable
and collards. Medical research is discovering range of crops, all of which can be crossed with
anti-cancer properties and other health benefits one another. These include common garden vege-
of including brassicas as a regular part of one’s tables like kale, collards, cauliflower, cabbage,
diet. As surprising as it is to discover, there are a brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi. Many of these
number of perennial brassica varieties. They are have been crossed to form strange biennial vege-
among the best perennial vegetables, and their tables like big-stem broccoli (broccoli crossed
familiar appearance and flavors make them much
more easily accepted than some more unfamil-
iar crops. Imagine growing a grove of 9-foot-tall
purple ‘Tree Collards’ or harvesting leaves year-
round from a 6-foot-tall bush kale. Strange as
it sounds, these vegetables exist and should no
longer be neglected! Anyone living in the Pacific
Northwest should make it a high priority to
acquire some of these plants right away.
Unfortunately for the rest of us, perennial
brassicas seem to be somewhat picky about where
they like to grow. When I first read Robert Hart’s
Forest Gardening I was very excited to discover
that he grew perennial kales and broccolis in
his garden. Over the years I struggled to get my
hands on seeds or plant material for this holy
grail of perennial vegetables. I grew several variet-
ies, including ‘Dorbenton Perennial’ kale, an infe-
‘Tree Collards’ is productive and delicious. Photo
rior type of tree collards, ‘Western Front’ kale, by Brock Dolman.
with kohlrabi) and Dalmeny sprouts (cabbage delicious. ‘Western Front’ strongly resembles ‘Red
crossed with brussels sprouts), which features a Russian’ kale, one of my favorites. The flavor is
cabbage head on top of a tall stalk of brussels mild, creamy, and nutty. Peters also offers other
sprouts! By crossing perennial brassicas with interesting perennial brassicas, perennial grains,
their many cousins, a virtually limitless menag- and many other fascinating and useful new vege-
erie of perennial vegetables could be developed. table varieties (see Sources of Plants and Seeds
That’s not to mention crosses with closely related in Part III).
Brassica species like mustard greens and bok choi. B. o. acephala (‘Tree Collards’, ‘Walking Stick Kale’).
Brassica breeding can be intimidating, but much This vegetable is an heirloom variety or cluster of
benefit could be gained simply from planting a similar varieties that seems to have been devel-
number of perennial or perennial and annual oped in the mild climates of the British Jersey
forms together, letting them cross, and saving the islands. In old drawings they resemble palm trees,
seed. Who knows what you might turn up with? with a long straight stalk and a flush of collard-
(Note: Most brassicas flower early in their second like leaves on top. In that mild climate they could
year, including some perennial types I have grown. grow up to 20 feet tall and live for many years.
Other perennials flower rarely or never.) The varieties I know of currently are shorter
It is apparently possible to perennialize ordi- (more like 6–12 feet) and tend to branch. Tree
narily biennial brassicas. According to Patrick collards were originally developed as a fodder
Whitefield, author of How to Make a Forest Garden, crop for livestock, and temporarily became a cash
certain brassicas including kales, cabbages, and crop for the production of walking sticks, made
sprouting broccoli can be cut back and harvested, by treating the tall, straight stalks. I obtained
leaving a stalk to resprout. Whitefield observes seed a few years ago and was unimpressed by the
that this seems to work best in shady areas. rubbery texture and strong cabbage flavor of the
B. oleracea (Wild Cabbage). This mother of them leaves. The plants did not survive my winters.
all, wild cabbage is itself a short-lived perennial However, I recently obtained a plant of a superior
(of three to five years). Many parts can be eaten, variety from Sascha DuBrul of the Bay Area Seed
primarily the leaves and small broccoli-like flow- Interchange Library (BASIL), an urban “seed
erbuds. The leaves have a flavor somewhat stron- library” in Berkeley, California. Sascha tells me
ger and more bitter than cultivated brassicas. that this variety, which has purple leaves in cool
Wild cabbage grows on the seacoasts of Europe. weather, is grown by urban gardeners in Oakland.
It is more resistant to pests and diseases than its It is perennial there and propagated exclusively by
progeny. Strangely, such an important source of cuttings. It tastes fantastic. Ken Fern of Plants
breeding material is virtually impossible to come for a Future considers tree collards the best of
by in North America. In fact the USDA germ- the perennial brassicas. His system for managing
plasm collection, which is supposed to main- the plants is to cut back the tops to encourage
tain wild relatives of crop plants for breeding branching, and every few years to cut the whole
purposes, does not have it! Importing seeds plant back to about 1 foot tall. They usually
should be a high priority. recover and resprout vigorously. Tree collards
B. o. acephala (‘Western Front’ Perennial Kale). can be grown from seed or cuttings. Most plants
This is a variety recently bred by the remarkable will flower if permitted to. It is possible that
Tim Peters of Peters Seed and Research. In his tree collards might be able to be grown in hot-
Pacific Northwest conditions, about 50 percent summer areas.
of seedlings become perennial and live for up to B. o. acephala (Tropical Tree Kale). This is closely
five years. Once you identify a perennial plant related to and may be identical to tree collards.
you can propagate it by cuttings. The plants are Although rare, several sources including Jay Ram,
very resilient survivors for him; in my garden very author of the Tropical Perennial Vegetable series,
few plants have overwintered, though it self-sows recommend it as an excellent perennial leaf crop
nicely. This variety is extremely productive and for the tropics. Plants grow up to about 4 feet
tall and then sometimes fall over. When they land While many generalist pests and diseases (like aphids and
powdery mildew) afflict brassicas, some species specialize in
their stems root and send up new shoots. In this
consuming members of this important crop family. Here are
manner they can “walk” around the garden like a few brassica specialists you might have to deal with in your
walking onions (though this is not necessarily garden.
the most efficient way to grow them). The leaves Cabbage maggots are the larvae of a fly species that dig
are of good but not excellent flavor (perhaps the brown, slimy tunnels in brassica stems and eat the roots.
delicious purple tree collard should be tried in Cabbage maggots are vectors for several plant diseases.
the tropics?). Plants produce larger, more tender Watch for small white eggs on plant bases in spring—row
leaves in partial shade. They are propagated by covers can prevent egg-laying. Diatomaceous earth, a neutral
cuttings or by removing sprouts from the base pH, and beneficial nematodes can help control this pest.
or from fallen and rooted plants. They do not Rotate your perennial brassicas through the garden over
set seed. Plants are resistant to nematodes but time. Also avoid cold, wet microclimates.
Caterpillars, including cabbage looper, diamondback moth,
otherwise have typical brassica pest and disease
and imported cabbageworm, can be problematic. Look for
problems. ragged holes in leaves. Prevent egg-laying with row covers
B. o. alboglabra (Gai Lon, Chinese Broccoli). This or Surround (a kaolin clay sprayed on leaves), handpick, or
Asian brassica is believed to be a descendant of control with Bt, rotenone, pyrethrum, or neem sprays.
seed brought to Asia long ago by Portuguese Clubroot is a dreaded brassica root disease. Prevention
traders. The upper 9 inches of the thick, succu- starts with bringing the soil pH up to 6.8 or higher. Rotate
lent stem, leaves, and flowerbuds are harvested crops when possible, and avoid cold, wet microclimates.
when the first flowers begin to open. The flavor Flea beetles can make thousands of tiny pinholes in brassica
is like a nutty mix of asparagus and broccoli— leaves—especially watercress and sylvetta arugula among the
this is really a remarkably good vegetable. Each perennials. They are most active in spring, when row covers
plant gives multiple harvests. Gai lon is a popu- are very effective. Surround is effective, and pyrethrin sprays
can control severe infestations.
lar vegetable in Southeast Asia, where it is grown
In general, the use of floating row covers (with all edges
in the cooler seasons of the year. It is frequently sealed to prevent insect access) is a good idea, along with
referred to as a perennial grown as an annual, but rotating at least at the end of the life cycle of your perennial
no one seems to know what happens if you grow brassicas. Avoiding cold, wet spots and bringing the pH up
it as a perennial. It seems likely that a perennial to 7 or higher also seem like good practices. In areas where
production system could be worked out. cabbage maggot is a problem, use of beneficial nematodes is
B. o. botrytis (Perennial Broccoli). The only vari- an excellent idea as annual rotation to avoid this pest won’t
ety of perennial broccoli I know of is ‘9 Star’, be possible.
although there are or have been others. Perennial
broccoli is botanically a cauliflower, although you
would not guess it from looking it. It grows like B. o. ramosa (Branching Bush Kales). This is the
a sprouting-type broccoli, with multiple small true queen of perennial brassicas. Bush kale is
heads. The flavor is good, but their small size is probably one of the earliest domesticated forms
a bit of a hassle. The real problem with peren- of B. oleracea. Pliny described what is thought to
nial broccoli is that all of the heads have to be be this plant as ‘Tritian Kale’ in ad 70, and at
harvested, or at least prevented from going to that point it had lost its ability to flower, which
seed, because the entire plant will die once it sets indicates that it had already had a long history of
seed. Apparently plants have lived up to five years, cultivation. Bush kales grow as evergreen shrub-
with three being more typical. I found the leaves like herbs in mild climates, with some varieties
are also quite good for cooking, but apparently growing up to 9 feet tall in the mild temper-
this can rob the plant of the energy it needs to ate climate of the Netherlands. Most varieties
remain perennial. Certainly the perennial broc- never flower, and others do so only rarely. They
coli is an interesting, though high-maintenance, do not die after flowering. Plants are multi-
vegetable. Breeding work could surely improve stemmed and bushy, with stems traveling hori-
the size of the broccoli heads. zontally on the ground before ascending. They
often root where they touch the ground. I have Tolerances and Preferences: These plants are just like
grown the variety ‘Dorbenton’, which has a deli- the brassicas you already know and love—they
cious nutty taste even raw (apparently distinct are heavy feeders and love rich soil with plenty of
from the variety named ‘Daubenton’ which is organic matter.
said to have poor flavor). Apparently in mild Naturalization Status: Wouldn’t it be great if they
climates like the south of Britain the leaves can did? None of these varieties is known to natural-
be eaten year-round. Plants are somewhat pest- ize, but various Brassica oleracea types have natural-
resistant and can grow in light shade. Some vari- ized in areas throughout the country.
eties have purple leaves. Pest, Disease, and Weed Problems: Perennial brassicas
One has to ask, why is this remarkable plant are susceptible to all the usual pests and diseases
not more widely grown and available? In fact it of brassicas (see Pest and Diseases of the Brassica
seems to be a vanishing heirloom. One reason is Family on page 107). The cabbage moth is partic-
that in the European Union it is actually illegal ularly bothersome. The other challenge of growing
to sell seeds of varieties not on an approved list. perennial brassicas is that you cannot rotate your
All the plants on the list are of course devel- crops, at least not as frequently. Try to provide
oped for commercial production, and this vari- your plants with well-drained soils that have not
ety certainly does not fit into annual production been used to grow brassicas for many years.
schemes. With luck this magnificent vegetable of Propagation and Planting: Those types that set seed
ancient and noble lineage will someday be widely can be easily grown just like ordinary biennial
grown again. Meanwhile it is up to enthusias- brassicas. All can also be grown from cuttings,
tic gardeners to keep the plants going. I have which take quite easily. Cuttings should be from
no confirmation that bush kales are hardy past 1
⁄4 inch to 1 inch wide and 4–6 inches long. Bury
Zone 9; in fact, my own hard-won plant was about 1⁄2 of the cutting in soil. They will root in
sadly lost in a winter where deep snow kept the four to six weeks or sooner. Plant out perennial
ground from freezing all winter, which should brassicas on a wider spacing than ordinary types,
have been an ideal situation. Next time I will as they tend to spread out a bit more. Perhaps 2–
take some cuttings and bring them inside! 4 feet between plants is appropriate, depending
The fact that so few of the varieties described on the variety.
above are available though nurseries and seed Harvest and Storage: Harvest individual leaves or
companies is simply astounding. buds rather than whole plants. Otherwise harvest
Crop Description: Perennial brassicas resemble their is just the same as with ordinary brassicas.
biennial brethren. They are herbaceous peren- Uses: These crops are used exactly like their bien-
nials, although some forms become somewhat nial relatives. Enjoy!
woody and can grow unbelievably tall. Related Species and Breeding Potential: As mentioned
Climate: As mentioned above, most of these variet- above, these plants will cross with one another
ies prefer cool temperate climates with the gentle and any other B. oleracea. Other interesting
winters of Zone 8 or 9. However, that does not crosses could include the heat-loving Ethiopian
mean they shouldn’t be tried where you live! With kale (B. carinata), mustard greens (B. juncea), and
protection from winds and intense heat or cold, the incredible diversity of vegetables in B. rapa,
you may be able to expand their range quite a bit. It including Chinese cabbage, broccoli raab, tatsoi,
seems likely that some could be grown as dieback and mizuna. Seed saving and breeding in brassica
perennials in colder areas as well. Some are much species is somewhat complicated; refer to Seed to
more adaptable than others, such as ‘Western Seed and Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties for recom-
Front’, which is a bit hardier than most, and trop- mendations. Fortunately, perennials are unlikely
ical tree kale and gai lon, which love heat. Tree to cross with wild brassicas like mustards, which
collards are worth trialing in hot-summer areas. are all in different species.
Synonyms
Warty cabbage
•
Aspects
• Clumping herb
• Edible leaves
• Sun to part shade
Related Species and Breeding Potential: Breeding for Sylvetta is a wild shrub in the Mediterranean
larger broccoli-like flower heads seems to be the area, and thrives in areas with hot summers
most interesting direction. Crosses could also be and cool winters. They are also adapted to cool
tried with the similarly used Crambe cordifolia, C. maritime areas and possibly other climates.
orientalis, and C. tatarica. Certainly they should be adapted to most of the
West Coast, and are worth trialing elsewhere.
Diplotaxis muralis and D. tenuifolia • Sylvetta is hardy in coastal British Columbia and
Sylvetta Arugula Seattle, and is rated at Zone 7. Soils must be well
drained, but otherwise the plants can thrive in
quite poor soils. They will grow in full sun to
part shade. Plants self-seed freely and can become
Aspects weedy. The primary difference between these two
• Shrub species is that D. muralis has a lower, more mat-
• Edible leaves like growth and milder flavor than D. tenuifolia.
• Sun to part shade
Note: The related D. ericoides, also sold as sylvetta
• Moist to dry soil
arugula, is an annual.