MS 503: Advanced Manufacturing Technology of Leather Products

Garments Technology

Md. Abdul Moktadir

Lecturer, ILET, DU.
M. Engg. in AEM (BUET)
B.Sc. in LPE (ILET, DU)
ILET, DU
Leather Garments

 A leather garment is a clothing item which is made by leather.

 There are many types of leather garments available in market like

 Jacket
 Waist coat
 Pant
 Trouser
 Skirt
 Blazzer
Garments Pattern

Patterns: Patterns are the 2-D (two dimensional) representation form of a

3-D (three dimensional) object. Patterns are the various parts of the
product which are made of following materials:
 Paper
 Paper board
 Plastic
 Wood
 Aluminum
 Zinc sheet etc.
 Garments Pattern-Classification

Under the heading, pattern can be classified into four groups

 Block Pattern: Armhole line

Front Neck
Curve
 It is a foundation pattern to fit the sample size figure.
 The block pattern has no style line but it fits the figure snugly

Function:
1. The block pattern is a guide to make the master pattern.
2. From the block pattern many styles can be obtained C.F.
Front

Side Seam
Block Pattern (Front) of a
Jacket
 Garments Pattern-Classification
Front Neck
Armhole line Curve
Master Pattern:
 It is a plan (sketch) where an idea of a designer has been
F. Yoke
demonstrated.
 Here style lines, pleats, pockets, etc. are placed.
F. Lower
Part C.F.

Side Seam
Master Pattern (Front) of a
Jacket
Function:
1. Master pattern is the most fundamental tool of pattern development
because it embodies all the characteristics considered necessary for
particular type of products
2. Working patterns are developed from this pattern.
Garments Pattern-Classification

Working pattern:

 This patterns are cut according to the correct size and shape of the
style lines with respect to master pattern
 That is all sections are separated from the master pattern.

Function:
F. Lower
1. Working patterns help to develop cutting patterns. Part

2. It helps to assembly the various parts of the product.

Garments Pattern-Classification

Cutting pattern:

 The patterns which are cut with allowance for joining, folding,
overlapping, etc. from the separated working patterns.

Function:

1. Working patterns help to cut the materials with considering

F. Lower
allowances. Part
In general 1 cm allowance is added
Body Measurement
Body Measurement

 Garment fitting is based on taking body measurements. So it is very

important for a dress maker to know how to take accurate measurements.

(a) Following points should be taken during body measurement

1. Try to know the customer’s requirements, regarding the fit, style and shape of the
garment (pockets, collar, buttons, seam, finish etc.) before taking measurements.
2. Observe the figure carefully and if any deviation in proportion is found, do not
simply remember but record it in the order book.
3. The person to be measured should stand erect, but in a natural pose, in front of a
mirror.
4. Measurements should be taken comfortably without pulling the tape too tight or
loose.
Body Measurement

Following points should consider during body measurement

5. The measurements should be taken in proper order and with a certain

sequence.

6. All girth measures should be taken tightly, as ease for movement is included
in the draft.

7. To avoid any mistake, take the measurements twice.

Body Measurement

b) Observing Human Body

Eight Head Theory: A grown up human body is divided into
eight equal parts, which are equal in height to that of the head.
So each part is known as the “head”. All these eight divisions
or heads are as follows :

1st head : From hair to chin.

2nd head : From chin to chest or bottom of scye.
3rd head : From bottom of armhole to waist.
4th head : From waist to hip.
5th head : From hip to mid thigh
6th head : From mid-thigh to below knee
7th head : From knee to calf muscle
8th head : From calf to tip of toe.
Body Measurement
Advantages of the eight head theories:

1. By the knowledge of eight head theory, the observation of the body structure
becomes easy.

2. It will facilitate drafting and fitting. If there happens to be any fault, then it shall
be detected and rectified.

3. Knowledge of body structure shall be helpful in taking correct measurement and

this will result in correct cutting and the garment shall be stitched properly.

4. Work shall be easily and speedily executed.

 Body Measurement

Shoulder
c) Calculating other measurements using chest circumference:

Neck
Measurements Men Women

Waist Chest - (4 to 5”) Chest - (5” to 7”)

Hip Chest + (1 to 2”) Chest + (2 to 4”)

Shoulder (Half) ¼ Chest - ½” 1/6 Chest + (1 to 2”)

Armscye depth 1/8 Chest + 1” 1/8 Chest + (2” to 2.5”)

Neck 1/3 Chest + (2 to 3”) 1/3 Chest + (2 to 2½”)

You may get measurement chart from the below link:

https://www.asos.com/infopages/SizeGuide/pgesizechartMan.aspx?r=2
Taking Body Measurement
Bodice Measurement:
1. Bust Girth: Place the tape around the fullest part of the bust.
The tape must be horizontal at the back. This measurement must not be
taken tightly.

2. Waist Girth: Tie a cord around the waist and let it settle at the narrowest
part. Take this measurement firmly.

3. High Hip Girth: The high hip girth is located approximately 10 cm below
the waist. It is critical measurement for tight skirts.

4. Hip Girth: Place the tape around the fullest part of the hip. Use the hip
bone as a guide. This measurement should be taken firmly.

5. Half Across Back: Approximately 10.5 cm down from the nape.

Use the armhole seams as a guide. Measure generously.
Taking Body Measurement
Bodice Measurement:
6. Armhole Girth: This measurement must be taken loosely from the front
shoulder point down to the armhole line, and up again to the back shoulder
Point. Use the size chart .

7. Neck base Girth: Measure around the base of the neck and apply the tape
measure fairly loosely.

8. Shoulder length: Measure around the base of the neck to the shoulder
bone.

9. Upper Arm Girth: Measure around the fullest part of the bicep, fairly
generously.

10. Elbow Girth: Measure very generously around the elbow, using the bone
As a guide.

11. Wrist Girth: Measure fairly generously around the wrist, using the bone
as a guide
Taking Body Measurement
Bodice Measurement:
12. Height: From the top of head to the ground.

13. Dress length to knee: Measure from the nape of the neck to the knee.

14. Armhole depth: Critical measurement as there is no real landmark.

Measure 1 inch down from the armpit, then transfer this mark around to the
Center back. Next measure the distance from the nape to the mark.

15. Nape to waist: Measure down from the nape to the waist.

16. Underarm length: Position the tape measure to the highest point of
the underarm and measure down the underarm to the wrist bone. To allow
For movement reduce this measurement by 3cm.

17. Waist to hip: Measure down from the waist to the hip bone.

18. Nape to bust point: Measure from the nape at center back around the back
neck through the front shoulder neck point down to the bust point.
Taking Body Measurement
Bodice Measurement:

19 Body rise/crotch depth: Seat the model on a stool; measure the depth from
Waist to the top of the stool.

20. Crotch length: Measure from front waist around the crotch to back waist.

What is crotch:
The area on a pair of pants where the two leg panels are sewn together.
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Mans Bodice Block-Classic Jacket
A jacket is a garment item for the upper body. A jacket typically has sleeves, and fastens in the front or slightly
on the side. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and less insulating than a coat, which is outerwear. Some
jackets are fashionable, while others serve as protective clothing.

Jackets without sleeves are called waist coat.

Why it is called classic jacket?

Some styles never become completely obsolete,

but instead remain more or less accepted for
an extended period.

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Mans Bodice Block-Classic Jacket
Measurement (Medium Size)

.
Items Measurement
Chest 100 cm
Shoulder 16 cm
Scye depth 24.6 cm
Natural waist length 44.6 cm
Half Across Back 20 cm
Length (Varies with style) 70 cm
Neck 40 cm
Mans Bodice Block-Classic Jacket
Steps of Jacket block preparation:
Square both ways from “0”
0-1: scye depth+3cm; Square across.
0-2: Natural waist length+1cm; Square across.
0-3: Jacket length; Square across.
0-4: ½ scye depth+1cm; square out.
0-5: ½ measurement 0-4; Square out.
0-6: ¼ neck size minus 1.5 cm; Square up.
6-7: 2cm; draw in neck curve.
1-8: half across back+2cm; Square up to 9 & 10.
10-11: 2cm; Square across/out
7-12: shoulder length
9-13: 1.5 cm
8-14: ½ measurement 8-9 minus 1.5 cm
14-15: 0.5 cm
1-16: ½ chest+7.5 cm; Square up to 17,
down to 18 on waist line, 19 on hemline.
1-20: 1/3 chest+0.5 cm
20-21: ½ measurement 20-8 minus 1cm; Square down to 22
Mans Bodice Block-Classic Jacket
Steps of Jacket block preparation:

20-23: square up to 2.5cm from 20, mark front pitch point (FP)
17-24: ¼ neck size -2cm; join 24 to 10
17-25: 1/5 neck size+1cm; draw in a neck curve.
24-26: The measurement 7-12 minus 0.5 cm; joint 26-23
26-27: 1.75 cm join 24 to 27
27-28: 2/3 measurement of 27-23

Draw a armhole shape through points 12,13, 15, 21, 23, 27.
Curve inwards 2 cm at 28.

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Mans Bodice Block-Trouser
Trouser/Pant:

Trousers (British English-UK) or pants (American

English-US) are an item of clothing that might have
originated in East Asia, worn from the waist to the
ankles, covering both legs separately.

Homework: see the basic block of one piece trouser

block
Garment Specification Sheet/Spec Sheet:

 Garments specification sheet is an important document for manufacturing any

garments. The main objects of providing garments spec sheet to the
manufacturer is to facilitate the whole processes of garments manufacturing.

 Garments specification sheet is a document of a product which contains the

sketch of garment design, fabric construction etc.

 It is provided by the buyer to the garment merchandisers at the beginning of

a garment export order. Garment merchandisers normally receive garments
specification sheet in soft copy (PDF file) from the buyer.

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Garment Specification Sheet/Spec Sheet:

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Key Points of a Garments Spec Sheet:
 Normally garments specification sheet contains the following key points:

1. Sketch or design of the product: Sketch or design means the basic outlook of the
required item. It is confirmed by the buyer. He can make it by using computer.

2. Measurement chart: Measurement chart or measurement sheet contains various

size measurement of the required item. By following this sheet, pattern has to
develop.

3. Printing instruction: Printing instruction contains various information about the

required print for the item. Printing instruction means print size, print location etc.
Key Points of a Garments Spec Sheet:

4. Embroidery instruction: Embroidery instruction contains different types of

information about the required embroidery for the definite item. Embroidery
instruction means embroidery size, embroidery location etc.

5. Stitch instruction: Stitch instruction contains various info about the stitch
required for the item. Stitch instruction means stitch type, stitch thread types etc.

6. Garments washing instruction: Sometimes garment has needed various wash

effects which is instructed here. Garments washing instruction means types of
wash, softness, hardness etc.

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Key Points of a Garments Spec Sheet:

7. Accessories instruction: Accessories instruction contains different information

about the required types of accessories needed for the garment.

8. Different label instruction: Label instruction contains various types of label such
as main label, care label, size label etc.

9. Necessary comments related to the product: If buyers seemed to deliver some

comments related to the required garments manufacturing methods then he can
use this option.

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Concept of Grading:

Pattern Grading: is a technique used to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It is

stepwise increase or stepwise decrease of pattern.

 In order to produce garment that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern
pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete rage
of sizes.

 This process can be performed manually or automatically by a computerized

system.

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 Concept of Grading:

 Patterns are graded according to

size charts which present the sizes
.
and the average measurements of
the population group for which the
garments are intended.

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 Objectives of Grading:
 To obtain different sizes from a basic pattern.

 To obtain structure –big, small, and obese.

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 To make garments according to specification.

 It is done with less costly than making an individual pattern for each size garment.

 It is done without deforming the shape, fit, and style of the garments.

 Multiple productions are done with less time.

 Grading saves time and money.

 Measuring for Grading:

 The method used of findings a point by measuring 3

horizontally and then vertically is shown in the
.
side figure. From base point 1 measure 2
horizontally required measurement. Mark point 2; 1
square across. Measure vertically required
measurement to point 3. Draw a line through the
point 1 and 3 for a grade line. Points for further
grading can be made along this line.

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 General rules for Grading:
 The sample pattern must be perfectly adjusted and studied to avoid amplifying mistakes
made during the grading
.
 State the size on all pieces of the graded pattern.

 Mark straight grain, vertical and horizontal line on all pattern block.

 Know the measurements of the sizes needed in order to establish the grown chart.

 The grading axes will be usually parallel and perpendicular to the straight grain.

 Be very precise with the measurement and the drawing through to avoid off-standard
sizes.
 Always keep front and back parallel to keep the values balanced.
 Methods of Pattern Grading:

 There are four basic methods of pattern grading:

1. . Cut and spread
2. Pattern shifting
3. Construction method
4. Computer aided grading

 No one method is technically superior and all are equally capable of producing a
correct grade.

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 Important Grading Methods:

1. Cut and spread method: The easiest

. method which is to cut the pattern and
spread the pieces by a specific amount
to grade up or overlap them to grade
down. No specific training or tools are
required-just scissors, a pencil, tape
and a ruler.

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 Important Grading Methods:

1. Cut and spread method: Imagine that you have found

the. perfect vintage pattern for that little ’50s dress you’ve
been dreaming of, but it only comes in bust size 30 — and
you’re a 34. Come on, you’re not going to let this occasion
be ruined by 2 sizes of difference!

 First, make horizontal and vertical lines on your pattern

piece, placed where you want the pattern to increase or
decrease (more or less the same placement as on the
drawing). Cut along those lines and spread the pieces to
create the new pattern piece.
 Important Grading Methods:

2. Shifting method: pattern shifting is the process

of .increasing or decreasing the overall dimensions
of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up
and down and left and right, (using a specially
designed ruler) and redrawing the outline. Here
the pattern is moved vertically or horizontally
according to the amount of enlargement or
reduction. It is used for simple and large forms
with few style details.

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 Important Grading Methods:

2. Shifting method: Now, if you want to increase or decrease a multi-

size pattern instead of just one size, the shifting method is quite
handy.
. If you are working with a traditional pattern that comes in
multiple sizes, but your size is just outside the measurements chart,
you can shift the pattern piece in or out quite easily.

 On this example, the three sizes offered in the pattern are outlined
in black. Let’s say these are sizes 6, 8 and 10. Draw straight lines at
each corner, connecting the three pattern sizes, and beyond them.
Draw the new pattern piece, shifting the pattern to meet the red
line at the corners toward the inside for size 4 (in blue here) or
toward the exterior for size 12 (in green).

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 Important Grading Methods:

3. Construction method: From a given point on a

basic
.
form, one makes the values of growth in size,
usually along the axes that are parallel or
perpendicular to the straight grain. It is used for
sophisticated shapes and very stylized lines where
every details has its importance.

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 Important Grading Methods:

4. CAD method: This is the fastest method, but

tends to be an investment only larger
.
manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated
home computer software is becoming
affordable. Today most manufacturers grade
pattern on CAD systems.

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Important Grading Methods:
4. CAD method: The pattern maker guides a cursor around the edges of the sample
pattern on a digitized table.
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 At each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to record a grade point. Each
point is cross referenced by a grade-rule table stored in the computer, which
enlarges or reduces the pattern automatically according to the predetermined
direction.

 If the pattern was originally made by computer, data are already in the computer
and can be enlarged or reduced automatically.

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Thanks to All