Brussels, Bruges, Ghent & Antwerp (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BRUSSELS
BRUGES, GHENT & ANTWERP
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BRUSSELS
Contents
Introducing
Produced by Duncan Baird Publishers Brussels
London, England
Managing Editor Rebecca Miles
Managing Art Editor Vanessa Marsh
Editors Georgina Harris, Michelle De Larrabeiti
Designers Dawn Davies-Cook, Ian Midson
Design Assistants Rosie Laing, Kelvin Mullins
Visualizer Gary Cross
Picture Research Victoria Peel, Ellen Root
DTP Designer Sarah Williams
Project Editor Paul Hines
Art Editor Jane Ewart
Map Co-Ordinator David Pugh
Contributors
Zoë Hewetson, Philip Lee, Zoë Ross,
Sarah Wolff, Timothy Wright, Julia Zyrianova
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Paul Kenward
Belgian heroes Tintin, Professor Calculus
and Captain Haddock
Illustrators
Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Eugene Fleury,
Paul Guest, Claire Littlejohn, Robbie Polley,
Kevin Robinson, John Woodcock How to Use This Guide 6
Printed and bound in China
Great Days in Brussels 10
First published in UK in 2000
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Putting Brussels on
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
the Map 14
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017
A Portrait of Brussels 18
Copyright 2000, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in

Brussels Through
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, the Year 28
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. The History of Brussels 32
ISBN 978 0 24127 539 9
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European

usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Le Pigeon, Brussels, home of exiled French
Front cover main image: The Rozenhoedkaai and Belfort tower, Bruges novelist Victor Hugo
Flower carpet in Brussels
Shopping 160
Entertainment
164
Guildhouses on the canal, Ghent

Bruges’ Bottle Shop has
a range of beers
Brussels Area
by Area Survival Guide
The Lower Practical
Town 44 Information 170
The Upper Travel
Town 58 Information 174
Two Guided Brussels Street
Walks 80 Finder 180
Greater Brussels 84 Neo-Classical façade of the Museum voor General Index 189
Schone Kunsten
Acknowledgments 195
Travellers’ Needs
Phrase Book 197
Where to Stay 138
Bruges & Ghent Maps
Where to Eat Inside Back Cover
and Drink 144
Lace maker at work

in Brussels
Beyond Brussels
Beyond
Brussels 92
Exploring Beyond
Brussels 96
Bruges Walk 108
Antwerp Walk 126 Artist’s impression of

Rubenshuis, Antwerp
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your Brussels Area by Area and Beyond Brussels are
visit to Brussels and nearby Bruges, Ghent the main sightseeing sections, covering all
and Antwerp. It provides detailed practical the important sights, with maps, photo
information and expert recommendations. graphs and illustrations. Information on
Introducing Brussels sets the Belgian capital hotels, restaurants, shops, entertainment
in its geographical, historical and cultural and sports is found in Travellers’ Needs. The
context, describes events taking place Survival Guide details practical advice on
throughout the year and recommends transport services, medical facilities,
itineraries for city breaks of varying lengths. currency, communications and security.
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp

The centre of Brussels has colour-coded for ease of section covering sights outside
been divided into two reference, with an introduction of the city. Bruges, Ghent and
sightseeing areas: the Lower to the part of the city it covers Antwerp, as well as other
Town and the Upper Town. and an Area Map. The two Belgian towns, are explored in
Each has its own chapter, chapters are followed by a the Beyond Brussels section.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and
Monuments
2 Hôtel de Ville pp48–9
THE LOWER TOWN
Most visits to Brussels begin with a stroll
around the Lower Town, the ancient heart of
BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
Brouckère and the busy Boulevard Anspach

are the more recent additions to the city’s
 45
1 Area Map
For easy reference, the sights in
each area are numbered and
3 Manneken Pis the city and home to its most famous area, history. These appeared in the 19th century
located on an area map. To help

7 La Bourse
the Grand Place (see pp46–7). The original when the slums around the River Senne
Museums and Galleries settlement of the city was located here and were cleared to make way for ornate
1 Musée du Costume et de la most of the streets surrounding this market constructions such as the financial centre,
Dentelle
the visitor, the map also shows

8 Bruxella 1238
square date from the Middle Ages up to the La Bourse, and Europe’s first shopping
r Comics Art Museum pp54–5 18th century. The architecture is an eclectic arcade, Galeries St-Hubert. With its many
a Maison de la Bellone blend of Gothic, Baroque and Flemish restaurants and cafés, the Lower Town is
metro and tram stations.

Churches Renaissance. In and around the Place de also popular during the evening.
4 Notre-Dame de la Chapelle
9 Eglise St-Nicolas
0 metres 500
o Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste Yzer
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s Eglise Ste-Catherine D
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Each area of Brussels has

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colour-coded thumb tabs

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8•25•35
A locator map shows you

ANS NSP
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Historic Districts
VD
DES RUE TREUX

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CHA UIZ ER 3•13
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5 Quartier Marolles TR. KAR
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6 Halles St-Géry
where you are in relation to

LD M AA
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LA R
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Bourse
SEN
AR E DBER
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A R HE RU
Hotels N Beurs K A
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S L AA
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RU 26•39 See also Street Finder

ATTO
u Hôtel Métropole
T
AA
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surrounding areas.
STR
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IR
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RU A RD
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RU DERLE E
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Anneessens Restaurants pp150–53 25 La Kasbah
AN
LA
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1 Alexandre 26 ‘t Kelderke
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27 La Manufacture
BLVD.
NI
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PLACE 2 Arcadi
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DE DINANT
28 Mappa Mundo
M
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E LE
ROUPE
P OINC
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4 Bar Bik 29 La Marée
RIC
DU MIDI
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RSU 30 A la Mort Subite

5 Belga Queen
ARE
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31 De Noordzee - La Mer
GR NU
DES 6 La Belle Maraichere

LAAN
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IN AVE
du Nord
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Chapelle 7 Big Mama

AL
Kapelle
8 Bonsoir Clara 32 Nuëtnigenough
TE
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Recommended restaurants in the

HAU
Lemonnier 9 Brasserie Horta 33 O Bifanas

AT
RUE
10 Café Metropole 34 L’Ogenblik

RA
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11 La Cantina 35 Le Pain Quotidien

S
AE
area are listed and plotted on the map.

12 36 Le Paon Royal
BL
Le Cap
BLVD
37 Pin Pon
AV DE POORTLA
13 Chez Leon
HALL
RU
DU MIDI
PLACE DU
14 Chez Patrick 38 Plattesteen
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LA PO
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AT
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15 Le Cirio 39 La Rose Blanche
ZUID
ST
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16 Comme Chez Soi 40 La Roue d’Or

LAAN
HO
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17 Comocomo 41 Le Roy d’Espagne

L
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18 Delirium 42 Sea Grill

HA
19 Gecko 43 Strofilia
E
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20 Le Greenwich 44 Taverne du Passage

21 L’Idiot du Village 45 Den Teepot
22 In ‘t Spinnekopke 46 Vincent
The 15th century Hôtel de Ville, or town hall,
23 Jardin van Gogh 47 Vismet
illuminated on a Brussels evening
24 Kafka 48 Het Warm Water
For keys to symbols see back flap

48  BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA THE LOWER TOWN  49
1 Musée du which demonstrates the various The current statue of In 1698 the governor of
Costume et de schools of lacemaking across Manneken Pis by Jérôme the Netherlands, Maximilian The Legends of
Manneken Pis
la Dentelle France, Flanders and Italy. The Duquesnoy the Elder has Emmanuel, brought a gift to
museum displays temporary been in place since 1619. the city in the form of a blue The charm of this famous
Sights at a Glance lists the area’s

Rue de la Violette 12, 1000 BRU. exhibitions of contemporary However, there is evidence to woollen coat for the statue. statue comes from the many
Map 2 D3. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 71, 86, textiles and fashion. suggest that a stone This is a tradition that rumours and fables behind it.
95. v 3, 4, 32. Tel (02) 213 4450.
fountain depicting the continues today, with visiting One theory claims that in
q Gare Centrale. Open 10am–5pm
same figure stood there heads of state donating the 12th century the son
key sights by category. The Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, 1 May, 1 & 11

Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 8 on request,
call (02) 213 4450. ∑ museedu
3 Manneken Pis
Rues de l’Etuve & du Chêne, 1000 BRU.
before it, possibly as early
as 1451. In its long history,
the statuette has been the
miniature versions of their
national costume. The little
boy now has a collection of
of a duke was
caught urinating
against a tree in
costumeetdeladentelle.be
numbered bullets correspond

Map 1 C3. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 71, the midst of a battle
86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
victim of several thefts. A over 800 outfits, which are
housed in the Musée de la and was thus com-
Found within two 17th-century particularly violent theft
memorated in
gabled houses is the museum A wedding dress at the Musée du Costume An unlikely attraction, this tiny in 1965 left the statue Ville de Bruxelles in the
bronze as a
with those on the Area Map.

dedicated to one of Brussels’ et de la Dentelle statue of a young boy barely broken in two pieces, Maison du Roi on the Grand symbol of mil-
most successful exports, Belgian 61 cm (2 ft) high relieving leaving just the ankles Place (see p46), where itary courage.
lace (see pp26–7). The intricate collection explains and displays himself into a small pool is as and feet remaining. around 100 are on display The inspiration
skill employed by Belgian lace- the history of this delicate craft. much a part of Brussels as the The missing body of at any one time. Among for the statue has
makers has contributed a vital The second floor houses a Trevi Fountain is part of Rome the statue reappeared the collection are been revealed
economic role in the city since small collection of antique or Trafalgar Square’s proud lions a year later when it miniature Samurai, Santa as Cupid.
the 17th century, and the lace, carefully stored in drawers, are of London. was found in a canal. Claus and Elvis suits.
2 Hôtel de Ville The belfry was built

by architect Jan van
The gabled roof, like
much of the town hall,
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ruysbroeck. A sta- was fully restored in 1837,
The idea of having a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth tue of St Michael and cleaned in
Practical Information
as a major European trading centre had been under Grand Place, 1000 BRU
tops the 96 m the 1990s.
Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 279 2343
consideration since the end of the 13th century. It was not (315 ft) spire.
(general info); (02) 548 0447
A detail of the delicately carved façade with
until 1401 that the first foundation stone was laid and the stone statues Aldermen’s (for visits). Hôtel de Ville: Open
Practical information provides

building was finally completed in 1455, emerging as the room for guided tours. Closed pub
finest civic building in the country, a stature it still enjoys. hols, election days. & (tickets
at Hôtel de Ville or Grand Place
Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to design the tourist office). 8 in English: Wed
everything you need to know to left wing and belfry of the building, where he used ornate
columns, sculptures, turrets and arcades. The tower and
spire begun in 1449 by Jan van Ruysbroeck helped seal its
2pm, Sun 11am, 3pm & 4pm.
∑ visitbrussels.be
Transport
visit each sight. Map references reputation. In 1995, the 1455 statue of the city’s patron saint,
Michael, was restored and it now resides inside the tower;
a copy of the statue sits on top of the tower. Tours
@ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95.
v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
pinpoint the sight’s location on the are available of the interior, which contains
18th-century tapestries and works of art.
Street Finder maps (see pp180–81).

137 statues
adorn walls
and many
mullioned
windows.
. Conference Room
Council Chamber
The most splendid of all the
public rooms. Ancient tapestries
Major sights are dissected

and gilt mirrors line the walls
. Aldermen’s Room above an inlaid floor.
Still in use today for the meetings
to reveal their interiors;

of the aldermen and mayor of Wedding Room
Brussels, this council chamber A Neo-Gothic style dominates this
contains a series of 18th-century civil marriage office, with its many
tapestries depicting the history of ornate carved timbers, including
museums and galleries have 6th-century King Clovis. Banqueting room ancient ebony and mahogany.
colour-coded floorplans to
help you find key exhibits.
2 Detailed Information
All the important sights are listed in order, following the
numbering on the Area Map. Practical information, including
map references and opening hours, is also included.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
Brussels Area by Area

Brussels Area by Area
The coloured areas shown on this All the sights that appear on the central section of the map
are detailed in the Upper and Lower Town chapters of this
Greater Brussels
Wemmel
map (see inside front cover) are the

guide. Public transport is cheap and efficient in Brussels,
but the distances involved, together with the city’s Diegen
wealth of exceptional street architecture, make walking a Jette

pleasant option. Sights outside the centre are described in
two main sightseeing areas used the Greater Brussels chapter (see pp84–91) while Bruges,
Ghent and Antwerp are covered in Beyond Brussels (see pp92–135). Dilbeek
Koekelberg
Schaerbeek
Kraainem
in this guide. Each is covered in

Anderlecht
Woluwe-
St-Pierre Tervuren
St-Gilles
Ixelles
Auderghem
a full chapter in Brussels Area by BL

VD
DU
0 km
0 miles
3
3
Uccle
N
KR JA RD
LAA
UI DT IN
UI NLBO
Area (see pp42–79).

TA
AA NI The Upper Town
AIN
N QU
E
Pages 58–79
QMC
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T H E LO W E R
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TOWN
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GRAND PLACE
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The Lower Town
Pages 44–57 0 metres 500
0 yards 500
BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA  85
GREATER BRUSSELS
Past the heart-shaped ring-road of Brussels
city centre lie 19 suburbs (communes) which
form the Bruxelles-Capitale region. While
many are residential, a handful are definitely
worth the short ride to sample outlying
treasures of Brussels’ fascinating history. For
fans of early 20th-century architecture, the
suburb of St-Gilles offers numerous original
north, Heysel offers attractions whose
modernity contrasts with the historical city
centre. The 1958 Atomium, now restored,
stands next to the Bruparck theme park. To
the east, the Central Africa Museum reflects
Belgium’s colonial past in the Congo, and
the tram museum takes a journey through
Brussels’ urban past. Peace and tranquillity
3 Greater Brussels
This section covers those sights of interest that
lie just outside of Brussels and are easily
accessible from the city centre.
examples of striking Art Nouveau buildings, can be found close to the metropolis, in the
including the Horta Museum. In Koekelberg orderly landscape of Royal Laeken and
and visible from the Upper Town is the huge the lush green spaces of the Bois de la
Sacré-Coeur basilica, started in 1904. To the Cambre and the Fôret de Soignes.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals Key
Parks and Gardens
8 Basilique Nationale du Sacré- 5 Fôret de Soignes Central Brussels
Coeur q Domaine de Laeken see pp90–91 Motorway
e Bruparck
Historic Monuments, Buildings Major Road
and Districts Museums and Exhibition Areas Minor road
4
2 Avenue Louise 1 Horta Museum see p86
Railway
3 St-Gilles 9 Musée du Tram
4 Ixelles
6 Uccle
7 Anderlecht
0 Musée Royal de l’Afrique
Centrale
w The Atomium
BEYOND BRUSSELS  95 Beyond Brussels
BEYOND BRUSSELS Places worth visiting that
Wemmel
Antwerp
Brussels lies at the heart of Belgium, on the divide
between the Flemish north and the French-speaking are within a day’s travel of
N12
Brussels Walloon south. Its central position makes Brussels an BRUSSELS
Brussels – including Bruges,

Airport
Zellik R2 ideal base for visitors: within easy reach by road and rail are
1
Diegen the historic Flemish cities of Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. All of
Ghent these cities have fine late-medieval architecture, superb museums
Ghent and Antwerp – are

A201 Zaventem
A10
Jette
Evere and excellent restaurants – yet each is markedly different in character.
Ganshoren
Ste-Agatha- N2 Leuven
Bruges is a pocket-sized gem of a city. and museums, canals and shopping
described here. The general

Schaerbeek
R0
Berchem Flourishing on international trade, streets. The city also benefits from a
Koekelberg A2
R0
St-Josse
R20
Kraainem brought in on its canals, it was one of thriving university, which lends it a
Molenbeek
Dilbeek N8 Woluwe-Saint- the wealthiest cities of medieval Europe, youthful vigour.
introduction is followed by a
BRUSSELS Lambert and capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, Sitting on the bank of the broad
Ninove Anderlecht
Woluwe-
who were famed for their lavish lifestyles. River Scheldt, with direct access to the
Etterbeek
N6 Saint-Pierre Then it fell into decline until it was North Sea, Antwerp was and still is a
map that gives an illustrated

St-Gilles
Ixelles rediscovered in the 19th century and busy port-city. Outward-looking and
N3 Tervuren
restored in glorious Neo-Gothic style. ambitious, it has an edge that has placed
Forest Auderghem
Exquisitely beautiful, eminently walkable it at the forefront of fashion design and
Watermael- and packed with romantic places to stay, contemporary art though it remains the
overview of the region,
N5
N4
Uccle Boitsfort
it has become one of Europe’s most home of Rubens, and embraces the
A7
0 km 2 popular and rewarding destinations. legacy of his great Baroque age.
with major roads marked

Drogenbos 0 miles 2 Ghent developed along a similar path, All around lie other extraordinary
Ruisbroek Mons
and retained its medieval heart as it places – Mechelen, Ypres, Leuven and
The Atomium monument in the Heysel Park, Brussels For keys to symbols see back flap became an industrial centre in the more – with a similar tale to tell and
18th and 19th centuries. With one of
Europe’s most extensive pedestrianized
centres, it is a great place to wander
historic heritage to prove it. And just to
the south of Brussels lies the battlefield
of Waterloo, where the destiny of
and useful tips for getting
around, while exploring its many sights modern Europe, no less, was decided.
around by bus and train.
Fine Flemish architecture on the banks of Bruges’ network of canals

Tall spires of the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp
Stars indicate the sights

that no reader should miss.
5 Street-by-Street Map
This map gives a bird’s-eye view of
interesting and important parts of
98
1
 BEYOND BRUSSELS
Street-by-Street: Bruges
With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. An unspoilt medieval town, Bruges’
winding streets pass by picturesque canals lined with fine
. The Markt
Medieval gabled houses
line this 13th-century
market square at the
heart of Bruges. It still
holds a market each
BRUGES
* 119,000. n T’Zand, Markt 1,
and Stationsplein. (050) 44 4646.
 99
∑ brugge.be
Wednesday.
each sightseeing area.

buildings. The centre of Bruges is amazingly well preserved.
Transport
The town’s trade was badly affected when the River Zwin £ Stationsplein.
silted up at the end of the 15th century and was never heavily @ Stationsplein, Markt.
industrialized, retaining most of its medieval buildings as a
result. As a further bonus, Bruges also escaped major damage T Oude Griffie, or Old
RK
in both World Wars. A Recorder’s House
M
Today, the streets are well maintained: there are no
billboards or high rises, and traffic is heavily regulated. All the RG
major attractions are located within the circle of boulevards BU
that marks the line of the old medieval walls.

W
O
S
L
The Visitors’ Checklist

L
.
E
N
S
IK Alley of the Blind Donkey

T
R
L This narrow, arched alley

A
A
A leads from the Burg to the

A
provides the practical information

S
T
S 19th-century Vismarkt.
T T
A R
A .
R I
T LOPPEM A
you need to plan your visit.

S
S
A
N K
T
E ED
R
E
SI
G
A
T R O
The Rozenhoedkaai H
ST
S
A
U
MO
EN
T
A charming introduction to Bruges is B

E Z
EV
provided by the boat trips along the D O

N
U R
IN
city’s canal network. O

Heilig Bloed
PL
Basiliek
N
EIN
IE
A suggested route takes in

U
W
ST. SAL
ST
MA
R
R
VE
A
IJ
RIA
some of the most interesting

A
D
T
STR
VA
TO
streets in the area.

AA
S
R
KE F
RKHO
T
. Stadhuis
One of the oldest and finest town halls
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk Groeningemuseum in Belgium, this was built between
The Church of Our Lady employs many (see pp104–5) 1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
architectural styles. It took around 200 restored Gothic hall is noted for its
years to build, and its spire is Belgium’s 1385 vaulted ceiling.
tallest in brick. Arentshuis Museum
Gruuthusemuseum
Key
(see pp102–3)
Memling in Sint- Suggested route
Janshospitaal
Six of the artist’s works
are shown in the small The Belfort
chapel of the Built in the 13th century, the
12th-century Sint- Belfort or Belfry is a stunning
Janshospitaal, a city 0 metres 100 tower where the city’s
hospital that was still 0 yards 100 medieval charter of rights
operating until 1976. were held.
INTRODUCING
BRUSSELS
Great Days in Brussels, Bruges,

Ghent & Antwerp 10–13
Putting Brussels on the Map 14–17
A Portrait of Brussels 18–27
Brussels Through the Year 28–31
The History of Brussels 32–41
10  INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
GREAT DAYS IN BRUSSELS,

The charms of Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and churches. The following itineraries, listed first
Antwerp are always agreeably understated. by theme and then by duration of stay, are
The pleasures lie in wandering, happening aimed at helping you make the most of your
upon hospitable places to eat and drink, time here. Be warned that almost all Belgian
and visiting some of the rich and diverse museums are closed on Monday. Prices shown
collections of museums, galleries and include admission, but not travel or food.
in and around the Grand

Brussels in a Nutshell Place but choose carefully,
especially around Rue des
Two adults allow at least €80 Bouchers (see p52).
•
The Grand Place, the city’s
magnificent centrepiece Afternoon
The afternoon can be spent in
•
The Manneken Pis in all
Brussels’ best museums, which
his glory
are in the Upper Town. It is not
•
Belgian art: wonderful far to walk, but you could take
and weird a bus to the Place Royale
•
The historic sound (see p63). This is the location
of music of Belgium’s great national art
collection, the Musées Royaux
des Beaux-Art de Belgique Bird’s-eye view of Bruges from the top of
Morning (see pp66–71), which includes the Belfort
The Grand Place (see pp46–7) unmissable work by Rubens,
is one of Europe’s finest historic plus the wonderful alternative Bruges: Medieval
squares, and is a must-see art of the Belgian Symbolists Glory
sight. You could spend an hour and the world’s largest collection
just looking at the guildhouses, of works by René Magritte. Also Two adults allow at least €100
or by settling into one of the nearby is the excellent Musée •
A view of Bruges
bar-cafés on the square. After, des Instruments de Musique •
Supreme art from its
walk along the Rue de l’Étuve to (see p64), which has fine views Golden Age
see that famous icon of Brussels, over Brussels from its top-floor
the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9). brasserie. Alternatively, continue
•
A relaxing canal trip
Return to the Grand Place by tram or bus to the Horta •
An exploration of
and the Musée de la Ville de Museum (see p82), a shrine medieval life
Bruxelles (see p44) to see its dedicated to Art Nouveau,
surreal collection of costumes stopping perhaps on the way
for the Manneken Pis and back for some shopping in the Morning
interesting exhibits on the upmarket boutiques of Avenue Start the day with an energetic
history of the city. There are Louise and Avenue de la Toison climb up the 366 steps of the
many places to find lunch d’Or (see pp160–63). Belfort (see p101), the city’s
bell tower, for some exhila-
rating views across Bruges.
Afterwards, walk the short
distance to the Burg (see p100),
a delightful square lined with
historic buildings, including
the Stadhuis (see p100) and
the double church of the
Heilig Bloed Basiliek (see
p100). It is a short and pretty
walk from here, along the
canals, to the Groeninge-
museum (see pp104–5),
celebrated for its small but
fabulous collection of late
medieval paintings. There are
Gabled buildings of the Grand Place, Brussels plenty of places to eat nearby,
The Archduchess Isabella Shooting Down a Bird at the Grand Serment, Sablon 1615 (studio of Antoon Sallaert)
G R E AT D AY S I N B R U S S E L S , B R U G E S , G H E N T & A N T W E R P  11
especially around the Vismarkt Antwerp: Fashion,

back near the Burg; alter New and Old
natively head further west
to nearby Gruuthusestraat, Two adults allow at least €80
Mariastraat and Walplein. •
Rubens’ home, the
17th-century seat
Afternoon of fashion
Begin with a restful canal trip; •
High art from the age
tours last about 30 minutes and
of Rubens
most start from landing stages
near the Burg. Next, walk back
•
A dynamic museum
along the Dijver canal to Onze of modern fashion
Lieve Vrouwekerk (see p101), •
High-class boutiques
one of Bruges’ most attractive
churches. On the other side of
Mariastraat is the Sint-Jan Morning
Hospitaalmuseum (see p103), Start the morning with a
a medieval hospital that is now Het Modepaleis, the principal boutique glimpse of Antwerp’s 17th
a museum with an array of late of Dries van Noten in Antwerp century golden age at the
medieval paintings by Hans Rubenshuis (see pp124–5).
Memling. From here, take a p113), a superb museum Next, take a short walk, or
short walk to the Gruuthuse tracing the history of interiors, hop on a tram, to see
Museum (see pp102–3) for a furniture and furnishings. You Antwerp’s fineart collection,
taste of medieval life. could also take a 40minute currently at the
canal trip from the Korenlei, Museum Aan De
Ghent: Sacred and which gives an insight into Stroom (see p117).
Profane the importance of the Followers of fashion
waterways in the city’s will want to see Ann
Two adults allow at least €80 medieval life. For lunch, Demeulemeester’s
•
Jan van Eyck’s there is a good choice of store, which shares
outstanding masterpiece restaurants in the area Leopold de
(see p159). Waelplaats with
•
One of Europe’s best
the museum. From
design museums
Afternoon here, it is just a
•
Cutting-edge modern art Take a tram from the short walk along
Korenmarkt to Charles the river to the
de Kerchovelaan and walk Koninklijk Museum
Morning across the Citadelpark voor Schone
First, make a pilgrimage to Jan to the Stedelijk Detail from The Adoration Kunsten (see
and Hubert van Eyck’s exquisite Museum voor Actuele of theMystic Lamb, Ghent pp122–3), and
panel painting, The Adoration Kunst, or SMAK (see the excellent
of the Mystic Lamb in St Baafs- p115). This great collection of FotoMuseum (see p121).
kathedraal (see p112). Then walk contemporary art is bound to
to the Graslei and Korenlei (see leave an impression. Returning Afternoon
p113), stopping to admire the to the historic centre of the After lunch in one of the
views from the St Michielsbrug town, try an aperitif of jenever pleasant cafés located in
bridge over the canal. Continue gin in one of the bars by the Grote Markt (see pp156–7)
to Design Museum Ghent (see canal or in the Vrijdagmarkt. or the nearby streets, visit
Antwerp’s museum of fashion,
the ModeMuseum or MoMu
(see p120). Nearby is Het
Modepaleis (on Nationalestraat
16), the main outlet of designer
Dries van Noten, and there are
other good fashionhunting
grounds in the area. To
seek refuge from all this
highoctane fashion, head
for the more stately charms
of Antwerp’s great cathedral,
the Onze Lieve Vrouwe
Kathedraal (see p117) and
back to the old city square,
Korenlei on the bank of the River Leie in Ghent the Grote Markt (see p116).
across the road is also worth a

2 Days in Brussels photo. Afterwards, take a walk
around the majestic Parc du
Two adults allow at least €90 Cinquantenaire (see pp78–9).
•
Venture into the heart Autombile fans should not
of Brussels miss Autoworld, while the
Musée Royal de l’Armee
•
Browse the boutiques
warrants equal attention.
of Europe’s most historic
shopping arcade
•
See how royalty lived 3 Days in Brussels
in the Quartier Royal
Two adults allow at least €125
•
Get to to know the stylish
Day 1 world of the Sablon
Morning Any exploration of •
Climb the Atomium and
Brussels should start at the The Manneken Pis, dressed in one of his
see Europe in miniature
Grand Place (see pp46–7). Every many outfits
building on the square is a gem, •
Hunt for bargains on
especially the Hôtel de Ville around the Parc de Bruxelles is the Rue Neuve
(see pp48–9), the city’s finest the Palais Royal (see pp62–3);
building. It is worth taking the do not miss the Throne Room
guided tour to fully appreciate with its superb chandeliers or Day 1
its ornate interiors. Often the impressive Hall of Mirrors. Morning Kick things off with
overlooked, Palais de la Bourse Behind the palace are the a walk around Le Botanique
just behind the Grand Place is Musées Royaux des Beaux- (see p53) before exploring the
really quite spectacular: La Arts de Belgique (see pp66–71). Quartier Royal (see pp60–61).
Bourse (see p51) itself boasts Plan your time carefully to Choose a collection to see at
sculptures by Rodin on its see everything you want to the Musées Royaux des Beaux-
façade. From here, make the here; the Musée Magritte is Arts (see pp66–71) before lunch.
short walk across to Rues de particularly great.
l’Etuve and du Chêne to gaze at Afternoon Enjoy a casual lunch
the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9), Afternoon The finest church in at one of the cafés on or around
still by far the most famous the city is the Cathédrale Sts Place du Grand Sablon (see
sight in Brussels. Michel et Gudule (see pp74–5), p72), then head for the quirky
dating from the 13th century. boutiques and antique shops on
Afternoon After lunch in The window above the main the streets of the trendy Sablon
the Grand Place, head for the entrance, depicting the Last area. Gawp at the splendour of
Galeries St-Hubert (see p51), Judgement, is a 16th-century the Notre Dame du Sablon
Europe’s oldest and most treasure. From here, the metro (see p72) before making your way
elegant shopping arcade. Next, at Parc makes it a short trip to to the Palais de Justice (see p73),
take the short walk north to Schumann, in the heart of the one of the world’s most impre-
the Comics Art Museum (see Quartier Européen (see p76). ssive 19th-century buildings.
pp54–5), a unique museum The imposing Belaymont
dedicated to the comic strip, building, headquarters of Day 2
which has become one of the the European Commission, Morning Pack a picnic of
city’s must-sees. If you have the is immediately recognizable. baguettes and ham and take
energy and the time, top off The equally bold Justus Lipsius the metro out to Stuyvenbergh
your day with a stroll around the
glorious Le Botanique (see p53).
The botanical gardens are no
longer here, but the 19th-century
glasshouse remains and the
surrounding park is gorgeous in
spring and summer.
Day 2
Morning Start your day with a
look inside the Notre-dame du
Sablon (see p72) before heading
into the Quartier Royal (see
pp60–61), traditionally home to
Belgium’s kings and queens.
The finest of the places built Majestic interior of Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule, Brussels
G R E AT D AY S I N B R U S S E L S , B R U G E S , G H E N T & A N T W E R P  13
(see pp62–3) and the Cathédrale

Sts Michel et Gudule (see
pp74–5). Don’t linger too long
here, however, as the treasures
of the Musées Royaux des
Beaux-Arts (see pp66–71) await.
Day 3
Morning Rise early to explore
the fashionable Place du Grand
Sablon (see p72). The area’s
parish church, the Notre Dame
du Sablon, (see p72) is a must-
Triumphal Arch at the Parc du Cinquantenaire, Brussels see, as are the lavish gardens of
the Place du Petit Sablon (see
to escape the bustle of the city 5 Days in Brussels, pp72–3). From here, it is a short
centre. Here lies the Domaine Bruges and Ghent walk to the exceptional Palais
de Laeken (see pp90–91), the de Justice (see p73).
estate that surrounds the official Two adults allow at least €160
residence of the Belgian •
Explore the Comics Art Afternoon Head out on the
monarch. Highlights include Museum and the Musées metro to Heysel to see the
the Pavillon Chinois and the Royaux des Beaux-Art striking Atomium (see p91).
Serres Royales. The interior of Do not miss the Mini-Europe
•
Head to Bruges for a
the latter is open to the public exhibition in the Bruparck
change of scenery
in April. (see p91). Spend time exploring
•
Taste some of Belgium’s Domaine de Laeken (see
Afternoon After an alfresco best fries in Ghent pp90–91), home to the Belgian
lunch at the beautiful estate, royal family.
visitors can either walk or take
the metro two stops to Heysel, Day 1 Day 4
and the iconic Atomium (see Morning Begin your adventure Bruges is just an hour by train
p91). In the shadow of the at the Grand Place (see pp46–7), from Brussels. Explore the
Atomium is Bruparck (see p91), taking in the opulence of the picture-postcard city centre
where incredibly detailed scale Hôtel de Ville (see pp48–9) on foot – make sure you pay a
replicas of the European Union’s before making your way to the visit to the Stadhuis (see p100)
most famous buildings at Mini- equally impressive La Bourse and the Markt (see p101),
Europe are the main attractions. (see p51) and the city’s landmark, which still hosts a market
the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9). every Wednesday. After lunch,
Day 3 climb the Belfort (see p101) for
Morning Take in the splendour Afternoon Take the metro to views over the entire ancient
of the Grand Place (see pp46–7), Schuman to visit the Parc du city. Reserve ample time for
not least the Hôtel de Ville Cinquantenaire (see pp78–9), exploring Gruuthusemuseum
(see pp48–9) – take its exemplary home to many fine attractions, (see pp102–3), whose Gothic
guided tour. Don’t forget the of which the Cinquantenaire façade is alone worth the trip.
obligatory photo-op at the Museum and Autworld are not
Manneken Pis (see pp48–9) to be missed. Before heading Day 5
before being immersed in the back to the centre of town, Jump on an early train for the
fantastic Comics Art Museum have a good look around the half-hour ride to Ghent, once
(see pp54–5). Later, shop at Quartier Européen (see p76). the centre of the European
Rue Nueve (see p53), where the textile industry. Much of the
city’s best selection of stores Day 2 city’s rich history is documented
can be found on a lovely, fully Morning Start off with a stroll in the Design Museum (see
pedestrianized street. around Le Botanique (see p113), which is well worth a
p53) before heading to the visit. Fabulous town houses
Afternoon Having had lunch Comics Art Museum (see line the Graslei and Korenlei
at one of the eateries in and pp54–5). After shopping on the (see p113) on either side of the
around Rue Neuve, take the Rue Neuve (see p53), pop into River Leie, while around central
metro from de Brouckere to one of the many cafés in the Poelje-markt are the Stadhuis
Schuman and explore the area for lunch. (see p112), the 12th-century
Quartier Européen (see p76) and St Baafskathedral (see p112)
the Parc du Cinquantenaire Afternoon The regal Quartier and the Belfort (see p113).
(see pp78–9). Don’t miss the Royal (see pp60–61) is home to Don’t leave without a cone
collection of pre-Columbian art a wealth of palaces and parks, the of fries – you’ll find the best
in the Cinquantenaire Museum. finest being the Palais Royal in Ghent.
Putting Brussels on the Map

Brussels is the capital of Belgium and the centre of government
for the European Union. Although one of Europe’s smallest
countries, covering 30,500 sq km (11,580 sq miles), Belgium
has one of the highest population densities, with 11 million
inhabitants (360 people for every square kilometre). Belgium Harwich
is a trilingual country (Dutch, French and German). Although
Brussels falls geographically in the Flemish (Dutch-speaking)
half, it is largely French-speaking. It is Belgium’s largest city,
with more than one million inhabiting the region, and is also
the most visited, with around seven million visitors a year, North
although many of these come for business. Brussels’ excellent Sea
transport links make it an ideal place from which to explore
Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp.
Key
Motorway
Major road Hull
Railway Vlissingen
Regional border
Knokke-Heist
Zeebrugge
0 km 20
0 miles 20 Oostende
Zelzate
Dover, Bruges Maldegem
Ramsgate
Veurne
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he
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Menen
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ca
Boulogne Longuenesse Roubaix Es
FRANCE Ath
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Lille Tournai
Béthune
Western Europe NO RWAY
SWEDEN
Lens
Douai
Valenciennes
North Arras
DENMARK
Sea
REP. OF UNITED
IRELAND
KINGDOM
Cambrai
NETHERLANDS
Caudry
Brussels GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
REPUBLIC
FRANCE
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
Atlantic Péronne
Ocean I TALY Saint-Quentin
SPAIN

PUTTING BRUSSELS ON THE MAP  15
Brussels and Environs

Amsterdam Mechelen
Schiphol
Aalst see next

Leiden page Vilvoorde
Den Haag Asse Brussels
Leuven
Hoek van
Holland
Rotterdam Gouda Woluwe
Ninove BRUSSELS
Rotterdam Anderlecht
Overijse
Dordrecht
NETHERLANDS Halle
Waterloo Wavre
0 km 20
Breda 0 miles 10
Bergen op
Zoom Eindhoven Eindhoven
Turnhout
Venlo
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Antwerp
Mönchengladbach
St-Niklaas Antwerpen Herentals
S c h el d t
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FLAN DERS
Dendermonde Mechelen GERMANY
See inset map Demer
above Genk
Aalst Maastricht
Hasselt
Brussels
Leuven Maastricht
St-Truiden
BRUSSELS Aachen
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Waterloo Liège Eupen

Méhai Liège
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B E L G I U M
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Brussels South Me A
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Luxembourg
Luxembourg
Virton
Central Brussels
Central Brussels is divided into two main areas, each of which
has its own chapter in the guide. Historically the poorer area
where workers and immigrants lived, the Lower Town contains
the exceptional 17th-century heart of the city, the Grand
Place, as well as the cosmopolitan Place de Brouckère and
the historic workers’ district, the Marolles. The Upper Town,
traditional home of the aristocracy, is an elegant area that
encircles the city’s green oasis, the Parc de Bruxelles. Running
up through the area is Rue Royale, which ends in the
18th-century Place Royale, home to the city’s finest art Yser
Ijzer
museums, including the Musée Magritte.
B LVD D ’ Y P RE S
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Brussels’ historic town hall dates DE DINANT

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NS T
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from the early 15th century. Its INIE des Beaux Arts
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Gothic tracery façade features the

S TR
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LA
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famous needle-like crooked spire
I NCA
AT
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(see pp48–9). Chapelle

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Key
Just behind the
Major sight Grand Place, on busy
Boulevard Anspach
in the Lower Town,
stands Brussels’ Stock
Exchange. It was built
in 1873 in ornate
style (see p51).
PUTTING BRUSSELS ON THE MAP  17
Place du Petit Sablon

This square is a jewel of the
Upper Town. Originally a horse
market, the central area
became a flower garden in
1890, surrounded by wrought-
iron railings decorated with
stone statuettes. Each figure
represents a medieval trade or
craft that brought prosperity
to the capital (see pp72–3).
TR.
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Palais Royal
The official work place of the Belgian
monarch, this is one of the finest
18th-century buildings in the Upper
Town. A highlight of Neo-Classical
architecture, it overlooks Parc de
Bruxelles (see pp62–3).
Brussels’ Best: Architecture

Reflecting Brussels’ importance in the history of northern
Europe, the city’s architecture ranges from grand medieval
towers to the glittering post-modern structures of
European institutions. With a few examples of medieval
Brabant Gothic still on show, the capital of Europe has the
best Flemish Renaissance architecture in the world in the
Baroque splendour of the Grand Place, as well as elegant Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
Neo-Classical churches and houses. The quantity and Begun in 1905 and only
quality of Art Nouveau (see pp22–3), with its exquisite completed in 1970, this huge
interiors and handmade features, are highlights of 19th- Art Deco edifice is the world’s
fifth-largest church (see p89).
and 20th-century residential building. The cutting-edge
designs in the Parliament Quarter brings Brussels’ Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
2km (1 mile)
pantheon of architectural gems up to date.
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Almost entirely rebuilt by merchants after

French bombardment in 1695, this cobbled
square is one of the world’s best Baroque
ensembles (see pp46–7).
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This imposing 14th-century
tower is the only remaining
trace of the city’s solid, thick 0 metres 500
second perimeter wall. It owes
its survival to its use as an 0 yards 500
18th-century prison and
latterly as a museum (see p87).
A PORTRAIT OF BRUSSELS  19
Cathédrale Sts Michel

et Gudule
The white stone façade
from 1250 is an out
standing example of
Brabant Gothic style Palais de la Nation
(see pp74–5). The home of the Belgian Parliament since the country’s independence in
1830, this magnificent building was constructed in the late 18th century
by the French NeoClassical architect Guimard, who also designed the
expansive stone façade and many of the surrounding state buildings.
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Palais d’Egmont European Parliament

This ducal mansion bears the name of a Flemish Nicknamed “Caprice des Dieux” (“Whim of the
count executed for defending his countrymen’s Gods”), this postmodern building serves more
civil rights in 1568 (see p73). than 700 politicians.
Belgian Artists With his studies of bustling

15th-century Bruges, Hans
Belgian art rose to the fore when the region came under Memling (c.1430–94) is
Burgundian rule in the 15th century. Renaissance painters considered the last Flemish
produced strong works in oil, characterized by intricate Primitive. Moving towards the
16th century, landscape artist
detail and lifelike, unidealized portraiture. The quest for
Joachim Patinir (c.1480–1524)
realism and clarity of light was heavily influenced by the produced the first European
new Dutch schools of art. Yet, in contrast, Belgium’s second industrial scenes.
golden artistic age, in the 20th century, abandoned reality
for surrealism in the challenging work of artists such as The Brueghel Dynasty
René Magritte.
In the early years of the 16th
Belgium is justifiably proud of its long artistic tradition. century, Belgian art was
Rubenshuis in Antwerp (see pp124–5) and Brussels’ Musée strongly influenced by the
Wiertz (see p76), Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique Italians. Trained in Rome, Jan
and Musée Magritte (see pp66–71) are fine examples of the Gossaert (c.1478–1532)
respect Belgium shows to its artists’ homes and their works. brought mythological themes
to the art commissioned by
the ruling Dukes of Brabant.
in an animated manner. Van But it was the prolific
Eyck is also responsible, with Brueghel family who had the
his brother, for the striking most influence on Flemish art
polyptych altarpiece Adoration throughout the 16th and 17th
of the Mystic Lamb, displayed in centuries. Pieter Brueghel
Ghent Cathedral (see p112). the Elder (c.1525–69), one
The trademarks of the of the greatest Flemish artists,
Flemish Primitives are a lifelike settled in Brussels in 1563. His
vitality, enhanced by realism in earthy rustic landscapes of
portraiture, texture of clothes village life, peopled with comic
and furnishings and a clarity of peasants, are a social study
light. The greatest interpreter of medieval life and remain
of the style was Rogier de la his best-known work. Pieter
Pasture (c.1400–64), better Brueghel the Younger (1564–
known as Rogier van der 1636) produced religious
Portrait of Laurent Froimont by Rogier Weyden, the town painter of works such as The Census at
van der Weyden Brussels, who combined van Bethlehem (1610). In contrast,
Eyck’s light and realism with Jan Brueghel the Elder (1568–
work of religious intensity, 1625) painted intricate floral
The Flemish Primitives
as in Lamentation (see p70). still lifes with a draped velvet
Art in Brussels and Flanders first Many in Belgium and backdrop, becoming known
attracted European attention across Europe were schooled as “Velvet Brueghel”. His son,
at the end of the Middle Ages. and inspired by his work, Jan Brueghel the Younger
Jan van Eyck (c.1395–1441) is continuing and expanding the (1601–78) also became a court
considered to be responsible new techniques. Dirk Bouts painter in Brussels and a fine
for the major revolution in (1415–75) extended the style. landscape artist of note.
Flemish art. Widely credited as
the creator of oil painting, van
Eyck was the first artist to use
the oil medium to fix longer-
lasting glazes and to mix
colour pigments for wood and
canvas. As works could now
be rendered more permanent,
the innovation spread the
Renaissance fashion for panel
paintings. However, van Eyck
was more than just a practical
innovator, and can be seen as
the forefather of the Flemish
Primitive school with his lively
depictions of human existence The Fall of Icarus by Pieter Brueghel the Elder
dominated by the influence

Surrealism
of other European schools.
François-Joseph Navez The 20th century began with
(1787–1869) introduced the emergence of Fauvism
Neo-Classicism to Flemish led by Rik Wouters (1882–
art. Realism took off with 1916), whose bright sun-filled
Constantin Meunier (1831– landscapes show the influence
1905) and Impressionism with of Cézanne.
Guillaume Vogels (1836–96). Surrealism began in Brussels
The Brussels-based Antoine in the mid-1920s, dominated
Wiertz (1806–65) was con- from the start by René
sidered a Romantic, but his Magritte (1898–1967). The
distorted and occasionally movement had its roots back
Self-portrait by Rubens, one of many from disturbing works, such as in the 16th century, with the
his lifetime Inhumation précipitée (c.1854) phantasmagoria of Bosch and
seem to have early Surrealist Pieter Brueghel the Elder.
leanings. Fernand Khnopff Fuelled by the chaos of World
The Antwerp Artists
(1858–1921) was influenced War I, much of which took
In the 17th century, the main by the German Romantic place on Flemish battlefields,
centre of Belgian art moved Gustav Klimt. An early Magritte defined his
from the social capital, Brussels, exponent of Belgian disorientating Surrealism as
to Antwerp, in the heart of Symbolism, Khnopff’s “[restoring] the familiar to
Flanders. This move was largely work is notable for his the strange”. More
influenced by Pieter Paul portraits of menacing ostentatious and
Rubens (1577–1640), who and ambiguous emotional, Paul
lived in Antwerp. He was one women. Also on a Delvaux (1897–1994)
of the first Flemish artists to journey from Naturalism produced elegant,
become known throughout to Surrealism, James freakish interiors
Europe and Russia. A court Ensor (1860–1949) Sculpture by occupied by ghostly
painter, Rubens was also an often used eerie Rik Wouters figures. In 1948, the
accomplished landscape artist skeletons in his work, COBRA Movement
and interpreter of mythology, reminiscent of Bosch. Between promoted abstract art, which
but is best known for his 1884 and 1894, the artists’ gave way in the 1960s to con-
depiction of plump women, cooperative Les XX (Les Vingt) ceptual art, led by installationist
proud of their figures. Rubens reinvigorated the Brussels art Marcel Broodthaers (1924–76),
was so popular in his own time scene with exhibitions of who used daily objects, such as
that his bold and large-scale famous foreign and Avant a casserole dish full of mussels,
works were translated by Garde painters. for his own interpretation.
Flemish weavers into series
of tapestries.
Anthony van Dyck (1599– Underground Art
1641), a pupil of Rubens and Some 58 Brussels metro stations have been decorated with a
court portraitist, was the combination of murals, sculptures and architecture by 54 Belgian
second Antwerp artist to gain artists. Although none but the most devoted visitor to the city is
world renown. The Brueghel likely to see them all, there are several notable examples.
dynasty continued to produce Anneessens was decorated by the Belgian COBRA artists,
notable figures: Jan Brueghel Dotremont and Alechinsky. In the Bourse, surrealist Paul
the Elder eventually settled in Delvaux’s Nos Vieux Trams Bruxellois is still on show with Moving
Antwerp to produce art with Ceiling, a series of
Rubens, while his son-in-law, 75 tubes that move
David Teniers II (1610–90) in the breeze by
founded the Antwerp sculptor Pol Bury.
At Horta station, Art
Academy of Art in 1665.
Nouveau wrought
ironwork from
The European Influence Victor Horta’s now
destroyed People’s
The influence of Rubens was so Palace is displayed.
great that little innovation took Stockel is a tribute
place in the Flemish art scene to Hergé and his
in the 18th century. In the early Notre Temps (1976) by Expressionist Roger Somville boy hero, Tintin
years of the 19th century, at Hankar station (see pp24–5).
Belgian art was largely
Brussels’ Best: Art Nouveau

Among Europe’s most important architectural movements
at the start of the 20th century, Art Nouveau in Belgium
was led by Brussels architect Victor Horta (1861–1947)
and the Antwerp-born interior designer Henry van de
Velde (1863–1957). The style evolved from the Arts and Hôtel Métropole
Crafts Movement in England and the fashion for Japanese The high-vaulted lobby and bar of
this luxurious 1894 hotel recall the
simplicity, and is characterized by its sinuous decorative city’s fin-de-siècle heyday (see p53).
lines, stained glass, carved stone curves, floral frescoes,
and elaborately curled and twisted metalwork. As new
suburbs rose in the 1890s, over 2,000 houses were built in
the style. Although many were demolished, details can still JA
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turrets (see p64).

SA
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Hôtel Ciamberlani
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Architect Paul Hankar designed

this red-brick house in rue
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whom he worked. W
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AV
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of Art Nouveau’s best-known

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architect (see p86).

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EE
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framed windows has striking EG
stained-glass panes (see p87).
Maison Cauchie
Restored in 1989, architect
Paul Cauchie’s home in rue
des Francs has examples of
sgraffiti, a technique in
which designs are incised
onto wet plaster to reveal
another colour beneath.
Maison Saint Cyr

Horta’s disciple Gustave
Strauven was keen to
outdo his mentor with this
intricate façade, only 4 m
(14 ft) wide (see p76).
AT
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0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Hôtel Solvay
An early Horta creation of 1894,
this home was built for a wealthy
family. Horta designed every
element of the building, from
the ochre and yellow cast-iron
façade columns and glass front
door to the decorative but
functional doorknobs (see p87).
Belgian Comic Strip Art

Belgian comic strip art is as much a part of Belgian culture where he expressed a strong
as chocolates and beer. The seeds of this great passion were sense of justice in such stories
sown when the US comic strip Little Nemo was published as King Ottakar’s
Sceptre, where
in French in 1908 to huge popular acclaim in Belgium. The a fascist army
country’s reputation for producing some of the best comic attempts to seize
strip art in Europe was established after World War II. Before control of a
the war, Europe was awash with American comics, but the central European
Nazis called a halt to the supply. Local artists took over, state. Hergé took
and found that there was a large audience who preferred great care in
researching his Spirou cover
homegrown comic heroes. This explosion in comic strip art stories; for Le Lotus
was led by perhaps the most famous Belgian creation ever, Bleu in 1934, which was set in
Tintin, who, with his dog Snowy, is as recognizable across China, he wrote: “I started…
Europe as Mickey Mouse. showing a real interest in
the people and countries
I was sending Tintin off to,
Le petit Vingtième. Eager to concerned by a sense of
invent an original comic strip, honesty to my readers.”
Hergé came up with the
character of Tintin the reporter,
who first appeared in the story
Post-War Boom
Tintin au Pays des Soviets on 10 Belgium’s oldest comic strip
January 1929. Over the next journal Spirou was launched
10 years, the character deve- in April 1938 and, alongside
loped and grew in popularity. the weekly Journal de Tintin
Hergé at work in his studio Book-length stories began to begun in 1946, became a
appear from 1930. hothouse for the artistic
During the Nazi talent that was to flourish
Hergé and Tintin occupation in the 1940s, after the war. Artists such
Tintin’s creator, Hergé, was born Tintin continued to be as Morris, Jijé, Peyo and
Georges Remi in Brussels in published, with political Roba worked on the
1907. He began using his pen references carefully omit- journal. Morris (1923–
name (a phonetic spelling of ted, in an approved paper 2001) introduced the
his initials in reverse) in 1924. Le Soir. This led to Hergé cowboy parody Lucky
At the young age of 15, his being accused of collab- Luke in Spirou in 1947,
drawings were published oration at the end of the a character who went
in the Boy Scout Journal. He war. He was called in on to feature in live-
became the protégé of a priest, for questioning but Statue of Tintin action films and US
Abbot Norbert Wallez, who released later the same and Snowy television cartoons.
also managed the Catholic day without charge. Marc Sleen, another
journal Le XXe Siècle, and was Hergé’s innocence was amply celebrated Belgian cartoonist,
swiftly given the responsibility demonstrated by his work created the popular character
of the children’s supplement, before and during the war, Nibbs (or Nero in Flemish).
Comic Strip
Characters
Some of the world’s best-
loved comic strip characters
originated in Belgium. Tintin
is the most famous, but
Lucky Luke the cowboy,
the cheeky children Suske
en Wiske and The Smurfs
have also been published
worldwide. Modern artists
such as Schueten break
new ground. Tintin by Hergé Lucky Luke by Morris
During the 1960s, the idea of Wiske, has been translated into 22 million comic books each
the comic strip being the Ninth English and appears as Bob and year. Today, Belgian cartoons
Art (after the seventh and Bobette in the UK, and Willy are sold in more than 30
eighth, film and television) and Wanda in the US. The countries, including the US.
expanded to include adult main characters are a pair of
themes in the form of the “ordinary” kids aged between
comic-strip graphic novel. 10 and 14 years who have
extraordinary adventures all
over the world, as well as
Peyo and The Smurfs travelling back and forth in
Best known for The Smurfs, time. Today, Vandersteen’s
Peyo (1928–92) was also a books sell in their millions.
member of the team behind
the Spirou journal which
published his poetic medieval
Comic Strip Art Today
series Johan et Pirlouit, in 1952. Comic strips, known as bandes
The Smurfs first appeared as dessinées or beeldverhaal,
characters here – tiny blue continue to be published in
people whose humorous Belgium in all their forms.
foibles soon eclipsed In newspapers,
any interest in the children’s comics and
strip’s supposed main graphic novels, the
characters. Reacting Ninth Art remains
to their popularity, one of the country’s Larger-than-life cartoon by Frank Pé
Peyo created a strip biggest exports. The adorning a Brussels building
solely about them. Set high standards and
in the Smurf village, imaginative scope of
Street Art
the stories were a new generation
infused with satirical Modern cover of artists, such as There are currently 40 large
social comment. The by Marvano Schueten and comic strip images decorating
Smurfs were a popular Marvano, have fed the sides of buildings around
craze between 1983 and 1985, growing consumer demand for Brussels’ city centre. This
featuring in advertising and comic books. Both French and outdoor exhibition is known
merchandising of every type. Flemish publishers issue over as the Comic Strip Route and
They spawned a feature-length is organized by the Comics
film, TV cartoons and popular Art Museum (see pp54–5) and
music, and had several hit the city of Brussels. Begun in
records in the 1980s. 1991 as a tribute to Belgium’s
talent for comic strip art, this
street art project continues
Willy Vandersteen to grow. A free walking map
While Spirou and Tintin were of the route is available from
French-language journals, tourist information offices
Willy Vandersteen (1913–90) and on the visit.brussels
dominated the Flemish market. Contemporary comic-strip artists at work website, as well as from the
His popular creation, Suske en in their studio Comics Art Museum itself.
Suske en Wiske by Vandersteen The Smurfs by Peyo Contemporary cartoon strip by Schueten
Tapestry and Lace

For over six centuries, Belgian lace and tapestry have
been highly prized luxury crafts. Originating in Flanders in
the 12th century, tapestry has since been handmade
in the centres of Tournai, Brussels, Arras, Mechelen and
Oudenaarde, while the lace trade was practised from the
1500s onwards in all the Belgian provinces, with Bruges and
Brussels particularly renowned for their delicate work. The
makers often had aristocratic patrons; intricate lace and fine Tapestry weavers numbered
tapestries were status symbols of the nobility and staple over 50,000 in Flanders from
1450 to 1550. With the ruling
exports throughout Europe from the 15th to 18th centuries.
Dukes of Burgundy as patrons,
Today, Belgium remains home to the very best tapestry and weavers prospered, and hang
lace studios in the world. ings grew more elaborate.
Tapestry designs involve

weaver and artist working closely
together. Painters, including
Rubens, produced drawings for a
series of weavings of six or more
on grand themes (detail shown).
The texture of the weave was the

finest ever achieved; often 12 threads
to the inch (5 per cm).
Tapestry
By 1200, the Flemish towns of Arras (now in France)
and Tournai were known across Europe as centres
of weaving. Prized by the nobility, tapestries were
portable and could be moved with the court
as rulers travelled their estates. As trade grew,
techniques were refined; real gold and silver were
threaded into the fine wool, again increasing the
value. Blending Italian idealism with Flemish
realism, Bernard van Orley (1492–1542) revol
utionized tapestry designs, as seen above in The
Battle of Pavia 1525, the first of a series. Flemish
weavers were eventually lured across Europe,
where ironically their skill led to the success of the
Weavers working today still use medieval Gobelins factory in Paris that finally stole Flanders’
techniques to produce contemporary tapestry, crown in the late 1700s.
woven in Mechelen and Tournai to modern designs.
The lace trade rose to

the fore during the
early Renaissance.
Emperor Charles V
decreed that lace-
making should be a
compulsory skill for
girls in convents and
béguinages (see p57)
throughout Flanders.
Lace became fashion-
able on collars and
cuffs for both sexes.
Trade reached a peak
in the 18th century.
Battles and classical
myths were popular
themes for tapestry series.
Lace makers are

traditionally women.
Although their numbers
are dwindling, many crafts-
women still work in Bruges
and Brussels, centres
of bobbin lace, creating
intricate work by hand.
Victorian lace heralded a

revival of the craft after its
decline in the austere Neo-
Classical period. Although
men no longer wore it, the
growth of the status of lace
as a ladies’ accessory and its
use in soft furnishing led to
its renewed popularity.
Belgian lace is bought

today mainly as a souvenir.
Despite the rise in machine-
made lace from other
countries, the quality here
still remains as fine as it was
in the Renaissance.
BRUSSELS THROUGH THE YEAR

The temperate climate of Brussels is typical ancient abbeys lit by the setting sun to open-
of northern Europe. Mild damp winters and air cinemas take centre stage. Every other
gentle summers allow a range of activities August, high summer is marked by the
through the year to take place outside city’s colourful flower festival, with the
as well as in. Across the calendar, the city’s Grand Place literally carpeted in millions
strong artistic life is celebrated in historic of blooms. Throughout the year, festivals
buildings, grand public squares and modern in Brussels range from energetic, exuberant
stadiums alike. Theatre, dance and film start historic processions that have taken place
their season in January. As spring turns to yearly since medieval times, to innovative
summer, evening venues ranging from European experimental art.
Spring
Brussels’ lively cultural life
takes off as the crisp spring
days lengthen and visitors
begin to arrive in the city. Music
festivals take place in a wide
variety of open-air venues.
As the city’s parks burst into
bloom, the world-famous
tropical greenhouses at Laeken
are opened to the public.
Meanwhile, Brussels’ choco-
latiers produce delicious
creations for Easter.
March
Museum Night Fever (early
Mar). One night of exhibitions,
music, dance, performances and
DJs. Twenty museums take part. The Royal Glasshouse at Laeken, famed for its rare, exotic orchids
April The Royal Greenhouses at Kunsten FESTIVAL des Arts

BIFFF (Brussels International Laeken (late Apr to early (early to end May). This
Fantastic Film Festival) (early to May). The private greenhouses innovative theatre and dance
mid-Apr). Two weeks of thrills, of the Belgian Royal family festival provides a platform for
shivers and off-the-wall films. are opened to the public as new talent to perform.
Over 150 cinemas open their their exotic plants and cacti Les Nuits Botaniques (mid–
doors for special festival start to flower. Breathtaking May). Held in the former green-
screenings and a series of film- 19th-century glass and wrought houses of the botanical gardens,
based discussions are held ironwork shelters hundreds of now the French cultural centre,
throughout the festival. rare species (see pp90–91). this series of musical events is
Brussels Short Film Festival Flanders Festival (mid-Apr a delight.
(third weekend). Cinephiles will to Oct). A celebration of all Queen Elisabeth Music Contest
love this festival showing short things musical, this classical (all month). Classical fans flock
movies from around the globe. medley offers more than to the prestigious musical
Art Brussels (third week). A large 120 performances by inter- competition, now in its fifth
scale contemporary art fair that nationally renowned choirs
brings together artists and and orchestras.
dealers from across the globe at
the trendy Tours & Taxis site, to May
the north of the city centre. Europe Day Festivities
Sablon Baroque Spring (7–9 May). As the capital of
(third week). The Place du Grand Europe, Brussels celebrates its
Sablon hosts new classical role in the European Union –
ensembles in a gathering even Manneken Pis is dressed as
of young Belgian talent a Euro-supporter, in a suit of blue, Participants in the Brussels
performing 17th-century music. decorated with yellow stars. Twenty-Kilometre Race
BRUSSELS THROUGH THE YEAR  29
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Climate
Hours Belgium has a fairly
10
temperate northern
8 European climate.
Winters can be chilly,
6 so bring a thick coat.
Summers are warmer
4
and much brighter,
2 though you will still
need a jersey for the
0 evenings. Rainwear is
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec always a necessity.
decade. Young singers, violinists and recitals featuring

and pianists gather in front of world music take
well-known conductors and place in the halls and
soloists to determine the museums of the city.
champion among Europe’s
finest student players. July
Brussels Twenty-Kilometre Ommegang (first
Race (either of the last two Thu in Jul and the
Sundays). As many as 20,000 Tue before). This
keen professional and amateur festival has been
runners race round the city, celebrated in
taking in its major landmarks. Brussels since 1549,
Jazz Marathon (last weekend). African drummer performing at the Couleur Café Festival and now draws
Bistros and cafés are the venues crowds from
for myriad small jazz bands, with City of Brussels Summer around the world.
some well-known artists playing Festival (mid-Jun to end Aug). Translated as “a tour”, the
anonymously. Classical concerts take place in procession happens around
some of the city’s best-known the Grand Place and the
ancient buildings. surrounding streets. Over
Brussels European Film 2,000 participants dress up
Summer Festival (late Jun). Premières and become members of a
The season of pageantry arrives and film stars are adding weight Renaissance town – jesters,
with Ommegang in July, one of to this European film showcase. courtiers, nobles and soldiers
Europe’s oldest and best-known Couleur Café Festival (last parade before Belgian digni-
processions, which takes place weekend). Spread over three taries. Such is its popularity
in the Grand Place and the summer evenings in the Tour that tickets have to be booked
surrounding streets. A varied & Taxis renovated warehouse, months in advance.
programme of music runs the fashionable and funky Brosella Folk and Jazz
throughout the summer; programme includes salsa, Festival (second weekend).
classical, jazz and avant-garde African drummers, acid jazz Musicians from all over Europe
US and European performers and multicultural music. play informal gigs in the
play in venues ranging from Fête de la Musique (last Groentheater in the shadow
tiny beer cafés to the great weekend). Two days of concerts of the Atomium.
King Baudouin stadium in
Heysel. Independence is
celebrated on Belgian National
Day. Families enjoy the popular
Foire du Midi, a huge fairground
with over a hundred rides and
stalls set up over 2 km square
(1 sq mile).
June
Brussels Rollers (mid-Jun
to end Aug). Rollerskaters
dominate the streets of Brussels
every Friday evening as they
follow an exclusive skate route
around the city. The Ommegang pausing in front of dignitaries in the Grand Place
Average Monthly Rainfall

Rainfall chart
MM Inches
On the whole,
300 12
Belgium is rather a
240 rainy country, with
9 Brussels experiencing
180 constant low rainfall
6 throughout the year.
120 Spring is the driest
3 season, but summers
60
can be damp. In
0 0 winter, rain may turn
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec to snow and sleet.
Festival d’Eté de Bruxelles

(Jul–Aug). Classical concerts Autumn
take place through the high Cooler autumn evenings lure
summer in venues around music lovers to performances of
the Upper and Lower Town. innovative jazz in the city’s cafés
Foire du Midi (mid-Jul–mid–Aug). and the French cultural centre
Brussels’ main station, Gare du in Le Botanique. Architecture
Midi, is host to this month-long is celebrated in the heritage
funfair, which attracts people weekend where the public can
in their thousands. Especially tour many private houses and
popular with children, it is one personal art collections.
of the biggest fairs in Europe,
and includes an enormous September
Ferris wheel. Nuit Blanche (first weekend).
Belgian National Day (21 Jul). This mix of live music, DJs,
The 1831 declaration of multimedia projects and
independence is commem- installations turns the EU
orated annually with a military Costumed revellers at the Plantation Quarter into an open-air all-
parade followed by a firework of the Meiboom night party.
display in the Parc de Bruxelles. The Birthday of Manneken
Palais Royal Open Days The cobblestones of the Grand Pis (last weekend). Brussels’
(last week in Jul–second week Place are carpeted with millions celebrated mascot is clothed
of Sep). The opulent staterooms of fresh flowers in patterns echo- in a new suit by a chosen
of the Palais Royal, the official ing historical scenes. The flower dignitary from abroad.
residence of the Belgian Royal carpet measures 2,000 sq m International Comic
family (see pp62–3), are open to (21,000 sq ft) and is displayed Strip and Cartoon Festival
the public for six weeks during forr only four days. (early Sep). Artists and
the summer. Visitors can even
peek inside the throne room.
August
Plantation du Meiboom
(9 Aug). This traditional festival
dates from 1213. A large crowd,
all in costume and carrying
elaborate puppets, parades
around the Lower Town, finally
reaching the Grand Place,
where a May tree is planted
as a celebration of summer.
The event is accompanied
by much eating, drinking
and partying.
Tapis des Fleurs (mid-Aug,
biennially, for four days).
Taking place every other even
year, this colourful celebration
pays tribute to Brussels’ long-
established flower industry. The Grand Place, carpeted in millions of fresh flowers
BRUSSELS THROUGH THE YEAR  31
Average Monthly Temperature Temperature chart

This chart gives the
°C °F average maximum and
30 85 miminum temperatures
24 75 for Brussels. Generally
mild, Brussels’ climate
18 65
does produce chilly
12 55 weather and cold
winters from October
6 45
to March. Spring sees
-1 30 milder temperatures
and is followed by a
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec warm summer.
authors, both new and estab

lished, arrive for lectures and
screenings in this city, known
for its comic strip heritage.
Journées du Patrimoine/
Heritage Days (second or third
weekend). Private homes, listed
buildings and art collections
are opened for a rare public
viewing to celebrate the
city’s architecture.
October
Hello Jazz Festival (early Christmas market in the Grand Place
Oct–mid-Dec). All over Belgium,
informal jazz concerts bring evennumber years and is a January
autumnal cheer to country must for connoisseurs of the Fête des Rois (6 Jan).
towns and the capital. contemporary music world. Epiphany is celebrated with
Performers are mainly local, Nocturnes des Sablons almond cake, the galette des rois,
but some European stars fly (last weekend). Shops and and the search for the bean
in for performances in Brussels’ galleries stay open until 11pm inside that declares its finder
Palais des BeauxArts. Ray around the Place du Grand king for the night.
Charles and Herbie Hancock Sablon. Horsedrawn carriages Antiques Fair (last two weeks).
have appeared in past years. transport shoppers around Antiques dealers from across
the area, with mulled wine on the world gather at the fair.
offer in the festively decorated
main square. February
Winter Carnival (Thu–Shrove Tue).
Rain typifies Brussels’ winter December Many cities hold parades on
weather, and attractions move Fête de Saint Nicolas the weekend before Lent.
indoors. Art galleries launch (6 Dec). The original Santa Claus,
worldclass exhibitions and the the patron saint of Christmas,
Brussels Film Festival showcases is alleged to arrive in the city on Public Holidays
new and established talent. As this day. Children throughout New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
the festive season approaches, the country are given their Easter Sunday (variable)
the ancient Lower Town is presents, as well as sweetmeats Easter Monday (variable)
brightly lit and families gather and chocolate. Labour Day (1 May)
for Christmas and prepare Reveillon/Fête de Noel
Ascension Day (variable)
traditional Belgian cuisine. (24–25 Dec). In common with
Whit Sunday (variable)
the rest of mainland Europe,
November Christmas is celebrated over Whit Monday (variable)
Ars Musica (mid-Nov, biennally). a feast on the evening of 24 Belgian National Day
This celebration of modern December. Gifts are given by (21 July)
music is one of Europe’s finest adults on this day, with 25 Assumption Day
festivals, boasting famous December traditionally (15 Aug)
performers and beautiful reserved for visiting extended All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
venues, including the Musée family. The city’s Christmas Armistice Day (11 Nov)
d’Art Ancien (see pp66–7). The decorations are displayed Christmas Day (25 Dec)
festival is held biennially on until 6 January.
THE HISTORY OF BRUSSELS  33
THE HISTORY OF
BRUSSELS
As the cultural and civic heart of Belgium since the Middle Ages, Brussels has been
the focus of much political upheaval over the centuries. But, from the battles of the
17th century to the warfare of the 20th century, it has always managed to recreate
itself with vigour. Today, as the political centre of the European Union, Belgium’s
capital is prospering as never before.
When Julius Caesar set out to conquer Roman Emperor, ruling a vast area
the Gauls of northern Europe in 58 BC, he extending from Denmark to Italy. By the
encountered a fierce tribe known as the 10th century, the inheritance laws of
Belgae (the origins of the 19th-century the Franks meant that the empire was
name “Belgium”). Roman victory led to divided up among Charlemagne’s
the establishment of the region they grandsons, Louis, Charles the Bald and
called Gallia Belgica. The earliest mention Lothair. Lothair’s fortress, founded in 977,
of Brussels itself is as “Broucsella”, or marks the official founding of Brussels.
“settlement in the marshes”, and dates The period had brought a measure of sta-
from a 7th-century manuscript. bility to the area’s volatile feudal fiefdoms,
Following the collapse of the Roman leading to a trading boom in the new
Empire in the 5th century, a Germanic towns of the low countries.
race known as the Franks came to
rule the region and established the Industrial Beginnings
Merovingian dynasty of kings, based At the start of the 12th century, commerce
in their capital at Tournai. They were became the guiding force in western
followed by the Carolingian dynasty, Europe and the centres of trade quickly
which produced one of the most grew into powerful cities. Rivers and
important figures of the Middle Ages – canals were key to the growth of
Charlemagne (AD 768–814). His noted the area’s trading towns. Ghent, Ypres,
military expertise ensured that invaders Antwerp and Bruges became the focus
such as the Northern Saxons and of the cloth trade plied across the North
the Lombards of Italy were repelled. Sea between France, Germany, Italy
He was also credited with establishing and England. Brussels, with its skilled
Christianity as the major religion across craftsmen, became a trade centre, and
western Europe. The pope rewarded him buildings such as the Cathédrale Sts
by crowning him Emperor of the West in Michel et Gudule (see pp74–5), started
AD 800; effectively he was the first Holy in 1225, demonstrated its stature.
58–50 BC Gauls 768 Charlemagne 1106 Dukes of Louvain

defeated by Julius is born and goes become the Dukes
Caesar and Roman on to rule most of Charlemagne of Brabant
occupation begins Europe as the Holy
Roman Emperor
600AD 750 900 1050
843 Emperor Otto II

gives the region of
695 First mention of Lower Lotharingia to 1000 Lotharingia now 1005 Henry II, Count of
Brussels as “Broucsella” in the Charlemagne’s under the rule of the Louvain, builds town walls
Bishop of Cambrai’s papers grandson, Lothair Holy Roman Emperor around Brussels
Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy (c.1500) by Rogier van der Weyden
from England which were crucial to their

cloth-based economy. The subsequent
depression marked the beginning of
decades of conflict between the craftsmen
and merchant classes. In 1356, Jeanne,
Duchess of Louvain, gained control over
Brussels, and instituted the workers’ Charter
of Liberties. Craftsmen were finally given
some political powers in the city. Trade
resumed, attracting new people to Brussels.
Nineteenth-century painting of the Battle of the Golden Spurs As the population grew, new streets were
built outside the city walls to accommodate
The Craftsmen’s Rebellion them. Between 1357 and 1379, a second
Over the next two hundred years, Brussels town wall was constructed around these
became one of the foremost towns of the new districts.
Duchy of Brabant. Trade here specialized in
fine fabrics that were exported to lucrative The House of Burgundy
markets in France, Italy and England. A The new town walls were also built in reply
handful of merchants became rich and to the invasion of Brussels by the Count of
exercised political power over the towns. Flanders. However, in 1369, Philip, Duke
However, conflict grew between the of Burgundy, married the daughter of the
merchants, who wanted to maintain good Count of Flanders, and when the count
relations with England, and their autocratic died in 1384, the Low Countries and
French rulers who relied upon tax revenue eastern France came under the couple’s
from the towns. Burgundian rule.
The 14th century witnessed a series of In the 1430s, Brussels became the capital
rebellions by the craftsmen of Bruges and of Burgundy, a situation that was to change
Brussels against what they saw as the the city forever. Brussels was now an
tyranny of the French lords. In May 1302, administrative and cultural centre, famous
Flemish craftsmen, armed only with spears,
defeated the French at the Battle of the
Golden Spurs, named for the humiliating
theft of the cavalry’s spurs. Encouraged by
this success, the Brussels craftsmen revolted
against the aristocracy who controlled their
trading economy in 1356. They were also
angered by the Hundred Years’ War
between England and France, which began Richly detailed Brussels tapestries such as this Allegory of Hope
in 1337. The war threatened wool supplies (1525) were prized commodities
1225 Construction 1302 Battle of the 1356 Craftsmen’s leader

of Cathédrale Sts Medieval Golden Spurs – Everard ‘t Serclaes expels
Michel et Gudule helmet Flemish defeat of Flemish from Brussels
French cavalry
1200 1250 1300 1350
1229 Brussels granted its 1338 Flemish towns become

St-Micbel first charter, and relations allied to England for the
statue between England and Hundred Years’ War
Flanders break down
1356 Duchess Jeanne of Louvain grants
Charter of Liberties
capital of Burgundy from Brussels

to Mechelen, where she educated her
nephew, the future emperor Charles V.
Spanish Rule
In 1515, at the age of 15, Charles became
Sovereign of Burgundy. The following year
he inherited the Spanish throne and, in
1519, became the Holy Roman Emperor.
As he was born in Ghent, and considered
Flanders his real home, he restored Brussels
as the capital of Burgundy. Dutch officials
Painting of the family of the Hapsburg King of Austria, Maximillian I arrived to run the three government
and Mary of Burgundy councils that were now based here.
For the first time, the city had a court.
for its grand architecture, in the form of Both aristocratic families and immigrants,
mansions and churches, and its luxury eager to cash in on the city’s expansion,
crafts trade. were drawn to the heady mix of tolerance,
intellectual sophistication and business.
The Hapsburg Dynasty Brussels quickly emerged as the most
In 1477, Mary of Burgundy, the last heir powerful city in Flanders, overtaking its
to the duchy, married Maximillian of Austria. long-standing rivals Bruges and Antwerp.
Mary died in 1482, leaving Maximillian and However, the Reformation, begun in
the Hapsburg dynasty rulers of the city at Germany by Martin Luther, was to usher
a time when Brussels was experiencing in a period of religious conflict. When
serious economic depression. In 1488, Charles V abdicated in 1555, he fractured
Brussels and the rest of Flanders the empire’s unity by leaving the
rebelled against this new power Holy Roman Empire to his brother
which had reinstated relations Ferdinand and all other dominions
with France. The Austrians held to his devoutly Catholic son, Philip
on to power largely because of II of Spain. His persecution of the
the plague of 1490 which halved Protestant movement finally
Brussels’ population. Maximillian sparked the Revolt of the Nether-
passed his rule of the Low Portrait of Charles V, lands led by the House of Orange.
Countries to his son, Philip the Holy Roman Emperor Brussels’ Protestant rulers surren-
Handsome in 1494, the year after dered to Philip in 1585. His power
he became Holy Roman Emperor. When ended when the English defeated the
Maximillian died, his daughter, Regent Spanish Armada in 1588, by which time
Empress Margaret of Austria, moved the 8,000 Protestants had been put to death.
1419 Philip the Good 1506 Margaret of Austria 1515 Charles 1555 Catholic Philip II
succeeds as Count of moves the Burgundian Hapsburg becomes succeeds Charles V as
Burgundy capital from Brussels Sovereign of religious reformation
to Mechelen Burgundy comes to Brussels
1400 1450 1500 1550
1430 Under Burgundian 1490 Plague decimates

control, Brussels becomes the the city 1566 Conseil des
major administrative centre Troubles set up by
of the region 1488 Civil war – Brussels Duke d’Alba. Prominent
joins Flanders against Counts Egmont and
Maximillian of Austria Hornes executed Count Egmont
The armies of Louis XIV, the Sun King, bombard Brussels’ city walls
The Counter-Reformation By 1633, both Albert and Isabella were dead

From 1598, Archduchess Isabella and Arch- and Philip IV of Spain passed control of the
duke Albert were the Catholic rulers of the Spanish Netherlands to his weak brother, the
Spanish Netherlands, installing a Hapsburg Cardinal-Infant Ferdinand. Keen to pursue
governor in Brussels. They continued to per- his ambitions, Louis XIV besieged Maastricht
secute Protestants: all non-Catholics were in the 1670s and took Luxembourg. Having
barred from working. Many skilled workers failed to win the nearby enclave of Namur,
moved to the Netherlands. But new trades the piqued Sun King moved his army to
like lace-making, diamond-cutting and silk- Brussels, whose defences were weaker.
weaving flourished. Isabella and Albert On 13 August 1695, the French attacked
were great patrons of the arts, and support- Brussels from a hill outside the city walls,
ed Rubens in Antwerp (see pp124–5). destroying the Grand Place (see pp46–7)
and much of its environs. The French with-
drew, but their desire to rule the region was
to cause conflict over subsequent decades.
A Phoenix from the Ashes

Brussels recovered quickly from the destruc-
tion caused by the bombardment. The
guilds ensured that the Grand Place was
Protestant prisoners paraded in Brussels during the rebuilt in a matter of years, with new guild-
Counter-Reformation under Albert and Isabella houses as a testament to the on-going suc-
cess of the city’s economic life.
Invasion of the Sun King The building of the Willebroek canal during
The 17th century was a time of religious the 17th century allowed access to the Rupel
and political struggle all over Europe. The and Scheldt rivers, and thus to Antwerp and
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) divided western the North Sea. Large industries began to
Europe along Catholic and Protestant lines. replace local market trading. Factories and
After 1648, France’s Sun King, Louis XIV, was mills grew up around the city’s harbour, and
determined to add Flanders to his territory. Brussels became an export centre.
1599 Artist Antony van 1621 Archduke 1641 Van Dyck dies
Dyck born in Antwerp Albert dies amid new after glittering Louis XIV
1600 Antwerp becomes
bout of Protestant/ artistic career of France in
the centre of Flemish art Catholic fighting costume
1600 1625 1650 1675
1619 Manneken 1640 Rubens dies after a 1670 Louis XIV

1598 Isabella and Pis installed in 40-year career as painter beseiges Maastricht
Albert run strong Brussels of over 3,000 paintings and Luxembourg;
Catholic, anti- William of Orange
Protestant regime Manneken Pis 1633 Cardinal-Infant goes on defensive
Ferdinand is new ruler
Austrian Succession over whether his daughter Maria Theresa

Subsequent decades were dogged by war should be allowed to inherit the crown. It
as Austria and England sought to stave off was not until 1748, with the signing of the
French ambitions. When Philip of Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, that Maria
Anjou succeeded to the Spanish Theresa gained control. The endless
throne, it looked as if the fighting took its toll, and Brussels
combined threat of Spain and was impoverished. The majority
France would overwhelm of the population were still ruled
the rest of Europe. Emperor by feudal laws: they could not
Leopold I of Austria, together change jobs or move home
with England and many without permission; only three
German states, declared war per cent were literate.
on France. The resulting 14-year Governor of Brussels, Duke
War of the Spanish Succession Charles of Lorraine The Workers’ Revolt
ended with the Treaty of Utrecht In the 1750s, Empress Maria
in 1713, which ceded the Netherlands, Theresa of Austria installed her brother,
including Brussels, to Austria. Charles of Lorraine, in Brussels. Under
The treaty did not end the conflict. the influence of the Enlightenment, his
Emperor Charles VI of Austria ruled after court attracted European artists and
Leopold, but failed to produce a male heir. intellectuals, and Brussels became the
His death in 1731 sparked another 17 years most glamorous city in Europe. Industry
of war – The War of the Austrian Succession – also boomed with the construction of
new roads and waterways. Brussels
was transformed as the Place Royale
and Parc de Bruxelles were laid out.
But while the aristocracy and new
middle classes flourished, the workers
of Brussels were suffering. As the city’s
population grew, there were more
workers than jobs: wages plummeted
and factory conditions were harsh. When
Joseph II succeeded Maria Theresa in 1780,
he enforced a series of reforms including
freedom of religion; however, he also
cancelled the 500-year-old Charter of
Liberties. Influenced by the ideas of the
French Revolution of 1789, the Belgians
French prince Philip of Anjou became Philip V of Spain, sparking the now demanded reform. Their rebellion
War of the Spanish Succession was to result in an independent state.
Ceramic
1695 French 1713–14 Treaties of Delft plate 1760s Brussels 1788 Joseph II cancels
Bombardment Utrecht and Rastadt is cultural and Charter of Liberties
of Brussels mark beginning of artistic centre which results in liberal
Austrian period of Europe opposition
1700 1725 1750 1775
1748 Treaty of 1789 Belgian

1697 Willebroek 1731 Beginning Aix-la-Chapelle 1753 New roads and revolt for
Canal completed, of the 17-year- restores the canals constructed, independence
links Brussels to the long war against Netherlands to which boosts industry fired by French
sea via Antwerp Austrian rule Austrian rule in Brussels Revolution
The Fight for Independence

Belgium was again occupied by foreign powers between
1794 and 1830. First, by the French Republican armies, then,
after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815, by the Dutch.
French radical reforms included the abolition of the guild
system and fairer taxation laws. Although French rule was
unpopular, their liberal ideas were to influence the Belgian
drive for independence. William I of Orange was appointed
King of the Netherlands (which included Belgium) after 1815. King William I of Orange
His autocratic style, together with a series of anti-Catholic William’s rule as King of
measures, bred discontent, especially in Brussels and among the Netherlands after 1815
was unpopular.
the French-speaking Walloons in the south. The south
was also angered when William refused to
introduce tariffs to protect their trade – it was
the last straw. The uprising of 1830 began in
Brussels and Léopold I became king of the
newly independent nation.
A Cultural Revolution in Brussels

French ideas influenced not only the revolution,
but also Belgian culture. Under Napoleon, the city
walls were demolished and replaced by tree-
lined boulevards.
Liberals joined workers already

protesting in the square outside.
The Battle of Waterloo

Napoleon’s influence came to an end after the
battle of Waterloo on 18 June 1815. A Prussian Agricultural Workers
army came to Wellington’s aid, and by 5:30pm Harsh weather in the winter of 1829 caused hardship
Napoleon faced his final defeat. This led to Dutch for both farmers and agricultural labourers, who also
rule over Belgium. joined the protest.
Le Théâtre de la
Monnaie
A patriotic song,
L’Amour Sacré de la
Patrie, led the
audience on the night
of 25 August 1830 to
join demonstrators
outside (see pp52–3).
The Revolution in Industry

Unemployment, low wages and factory closures
during the early decades of the 19th century
sparked unrest in 1830.
Belgian Revolution
High unemployment, poor wages and a bad
winter in 1829 provoked protests about living and
working conditions. The revolution was ignited by
a patriotic and radical opera at the Brussels’ opera
house, and the largely liberal audience rushed
out into the street, raising the Brabant flag. Ten
thousand troops were sent by William to quash
the rebels, but the Belgian soldiers deserted and
the Dutch were finally driven out of Belgium.
The initial list of demands asked for

administrative independence from the
Dutch, and for freedom of press.
This symbolic illustration of the King of Belgium, Léopold I

revolution shows both liberals The crowning of German prince, Léopold of
and workers ready to die for Saxe-Coburg, in Brussels in 1831 finally
their country. established Belgium’s independence.
1790 Republic of 1799 Emperor 1815 Battle of Waterloo. 1830 Rebellion

United Belgian Napoleon Napoleon defeated by begins at the
States formed. rules France army led by the Duke Théâtre de
Temporary end Wellington of Wellington la Monnaie
of Austrian rule in Brussels
1790 1800 1810 1820 1830
1794 Brussels loses 1815 Belgium, allied with 1831 State of Belgium
its importance to Holland under the United formed on 21 July. Treaty of
The Hague Kingdom of the Netherlands, London grants independence
is ruled by William I of
1790 War between Orange. Brussels becomes 1835 Continental railway built
France and Austria second capital from Brussels to Mechelen
population of Brussels had almost doubled,

The Flemish and the Walloons:
resulting in poor-quality housing and
the Belgian Compromise
working conditions. Towards the end of
Linguistically and culturally,
Belgium is divided. In the north, the reign of Belgium’s second monarch,
the Flemish have their roots in Léopold II (r.1865–1909), industrial unrest
the Netherlands and Germany. led to new legislation which improved
In the south are the Walloons,
the French-speaking Belgians, conditions, and all men over 25 gained the
culturally connected to France. right to vote in 1893. But the king’s principal
The “Linguistic Divide” of 1962
officially sanctioned this concern was his colonialist policy in the
Bilingual road signs
situation, dividing Belgium into Congo in Central Africa.
Flemish- and French-speaking zones. The
exception is Brussels, an officially bilingual city The German Occupations
since the formation of Bruxelles-Capitale in 1963,
and a national region by 1989 when it came to Albert I succeeded Léopold II as Belgium’s
comprise 19 outlying districts. Conflicts still erupt
over the issue, but the majority of Belgians seem new king. He encouraged the nation’s artists
to be in favour of a united country. and architects, and was a keen supporter of
Art Nouveau (see pp22–3). All of this ended
as the country entered its bleakest period.
Consolidating the New State Despite its neutral status, Belgium
During its early days as an independent was invaded by the German army in
nation, Brussels was a haven for free-thinkers, the summer of 1914. All of the country,
including the libertarian poet Baudelaire, except for the northern De Panne region,
and a refuge for exiles, such as Karl Marx was occupied by the Germans. Some of
and Victor Hugo. Belgium’s industries also the bloodiest battles of World War I were
continued to expand throughout the 19th staged on Belgian soil. Flanders was the
century. By 1870, there were no less than scene of brutal trench warfare, including
four main railway stations in Brussels able to the introduction of poison gas at Ypres
export goods all over Europe. However, the (see p133). Today, Belgium contains several
vast graveyards, which include
the resting places of the tens of
thousands of soldiers who died
on the Western Front.
The Belgians conducted
resistance from their stronghold in
De Panne, cutting telephone wires
and destroying train tracks. The
Germans responded by confiscating
property, deporting Belgians to
German labour camps and
King Léopold III visits a goldmine in the Congo in Africa murdering random hostages.
1847 Opening of Europe’s 1871 Under Léopold II, the 1898 Flemish 1914–18 World
first shopping mall, the River Senne is reclaimed, and language given War I. Germany
Galéries St Hubert new districts built to cope equal status to occupies
with the growing city French in law Belgium
1840 1870 1900 1925
The Belgian 1884 Léopold 1910 World Fair in Brussels 1929–31 Great
Congo II is granted promotes Belgium’s industrial Depression and
sovereignty over boom. Art Nouveau flourishes reduction in
1839 Treaty of London grants the Congo foreign trade
neutrality to Belgium
International Status
With the end of its colonial rule over the
Congo in 1960, Belgium might have settled
as a small country dominated by far larger
neighbours. Instead, over the next 50 years
its stature was significantly boosted by its
position at the centre of growing a European
Union. Brussels, established in 1958 as the
headquarters for what was then the Euro-
pean Economic Community (EEC), became
synonymous for the political machinery
that holds 28 different countries and 500
million citizens together.
In 1967, NATO also moved to the Belgian
capital and over the years the city has
become home to dozens of multinational
corporations wanting to be close to the
German troops raising the flag of the Third Reich at the Royal Castle heart of decision-making in Europe.
at Laeken, near Brussels
The European Capital
Belgium remained under German Contemporary Brussels maintains a
occupation until the last day of the war, balancing act between being a relaxed,
11 November 1918. old-world Flemish town and a cosmo-
The 1919 Treaty of Versailles granted politan city at the forefront of Europe,
Belgium control of Eupen-Malmédy, the its population remarkably open to the
German-speaking area in the southeast. world, almost universally multilingual
But by 1940 the country was again invaded and resolutely multicultural. But being
by the Germans under Hitler. a major world city has brought dangers
In May of that year, King as well as benefits. In 2016,
Léopold III surrendered. terrorist attacks on Brussels
Despite national resistance Airport and Maalbeek metro
to the Occupation, the king station left 33 people dead
was interned at Laeken until and 300 injured. The resilient
1944, after which he was Bruxellois refused to be cowed
moved to Germany until the The European Parliament, Brussels and the city remains steadfastly
end of the war. Rumours that welcoming to visitors. And
Léopold had collaborated with the Nazis thanks to its role as the capital of Europe,
led to his abdication in 1951, in favour of its future as a place of global importance
his 20-year-old son, Baudouin. looks assured.
1939–45 2002 The euro becomes

World War II. 1993 King legal tender
1951 Abdication of 1960 The Belgian
Germany Baudouin I
Léopold III; Baudouin Congo is granted 2013 Albert II
again occupies dies; Albert II
I succeeds independence abdicates in favour
Belgium succeeds
European flag of his son, Philippe I
Baudouin I
1950 1975 2000 2025
1944 Benelux Unions 1967 1985 1989 Brussels is

with Holland and Brussels Heysel officially a 2001 Crown
Luxembourg formed is new Stadium bilingual city Prince Philippe and
NATO HQ disaster with 19 out- Princess Mathilde have a
1934 Albert I is killed in a lying districts daughter, Elisabeth
climbing accident
Aerial view of Brussels

BRUSSELS
AREA BY AREA
The Lower Town 44–57

The Upper Town 58–79
Two Guided Walks 80–83
Greater Brussels 84–91
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and
Monuments
2 Hôtel de Ville pp48–9
3 Manneken Pis
7 La Bourse
Museums and Galleries

1 Musée du Costume et de la
Dentelle
8 Bruxella 1238
r Comics Art Museum pp54–5
a Maison de la Bellone
Churches
4 Notre-Dame de la Chapelle
9 Eglise St-Nicolas
o Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste
s Eglise Ste-Catherine
Shopping
0 Galeries St-Hubert
y Rue Neuve
Streets and Squares

q Rue des Bouchers
i Place de Brouckère
Theatres
w Théâtre Marionnettes de Toone
e Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie
p Théâtre Royal Flamand
Cultural Centres
t Le Botanique
Historic Districts
5 Quartier Marolles
6 Halles St-Géry
Hotels
u Hôtel Métropole
The 15th century Hôtel de Ville, or town hall,

illuminated on a Brussels evening
THE LOWER TOWN

Most visits to Brussels begin with a stroll Brouckère and the busy Boulevard Anspach
around the Lower Town, the ancient heart of are the more recent additions to the city’s
the city and home to its most famous area, history. These appeared in the 19th century
the Grand Place (see pp46–7). The original when the slums around the River Senne
settlement of the city was located here and were cleared to make way for ornate
most of the streets surrounding this market constructions such as the financial centre,
square date from the Middle Ages up to the La Bourse, and Europe’s first shopping
18th century. The architecture is an eclectic arcade, Galeries St-Hubert. With its many
blend of Gothic, Baroque and Flemish restaurants and cafés, the Lower Town is
Renaissance. In and around the Place de also popular during the evening.
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22 In ‘t Spinnekopke 46 Vincent
23 Jardin van Gogh 47 Vismet
24 Kafka 48 Het Warm Water

46  BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
The Grand Place

The geographical, historical and commercial heart of the city,
the Grand Place is the first port of call for most visitors to
Brussels. The square remains the civic centre, centuries after
its creation, and offers the finest surviving example in one
area of Belgium’s ornate 17th-century architecture. Open-air
markets took place on or near this site as early as the
11th century. By the end of the 15th century Brussels’ town
hall, the Hôtel de Ville, was built, and city traders added
individual guildhouses in a medley of styles. In 1695,
The vibrant flower market in bloom in
however, three days of cannon fire by the French destroyed
the Grand Place
all but the façades of the town hall and some of the guild-
houses. Trade guilds were urged to rebuild their halls
to styles approved by the Town Council, producing the
harmonious unity of Flemish Baroque buildings here today.
The Maison du Roi was first built

in 1536 but redesigned in 1873.
Once used by the ruling Spanish
monarchs, it is
now home to
the Musée de la
Ville de Bruxelles,
which includes
16th-century
paintings and
tapestries, and
the many tiny
outfits of
2 Maison Du Roi
Manneken Pis. Northeast Corner
1
The Hôtel de Ville occupies the

entire southwest side of the The spire
square. Still a functioning civic was built
building, Brussels’ town hall is the by Jan van
architectural masterpiece of the Ruysbroeck
Grand Place (see pp48–9). in 1449 and
stands 96 m
(315 ft) high;
it is slightly
crooked.
Ornate stone
carvings
Everard ‘t Serclaes was murdered

defending Brussels in the 14th
century; touching the bronze arm
of his statue is said to bring luck.
5 Everard ‘T Serclaes 6 Hôtel de Ville

THE LOWER TOWN  47
Le Pigeon was home to Victor Hugo, the RU

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Locator Map
See Brussels Street Finder map 2
La Maison des Ducs de Brabant is a
group of six guildhouses. Designed by
the Controller of Public Works, Stone busts of the ducal line
Guillaume de Bruyn, the group looks along the façade gave this
like an Italian Baroque palazzo. group of houses their name.
3 Le Pigeon 4 La Maison Des Ducs De Brabant
La Maison des
Le Renard was built in Boulangers, also
1699 as the guildhouse of known as “Le Roi
the haberdashers. Façade d’Espagne”, was a
details show St Nicolas, showpiece built
patron saint of merchants, by the wealthy and
and cherubs playing with powerful guild of
haberdashery ribbons. bakers. The 1697
octagonal copper
dome is topped
by a golden figure
blowing a trumpet.
Le Cornet displays Italianate
Flemish style. This Boatmen’s
Guildhouse (1697) is most
notable for its gable, which is Le Roi d’Espagne
constructed in the form of a now houses the
17th-century frigate’s bow. Grand Place’s finest
bar with a view of the
bustling square and
its splendours above
ground level. The gilt
bust over the
entrance represents
Saint Aubert, patron
saint of bakers. There
is a vast bust of
Charles II of Spain on
the second floor.
7 Le Renard, Le Cornet and Le Roi D’Espagne

1 Musée du which demonstrates the various

Costume et de schools of lacemaking across
la Dentelle France, Flanders and Italy. The
museum displays temporary
Rue de la Violette 12, 1000 BRU. exhibitions of contemporary
Map 2 D3. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 71, 86, textiles and fashion.
95. v 3, 4, 32. Tel (02) 213 4450.
q Gare Centrale. Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, 1 May, 1 & 11
Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 8 on request, 3 Manneken Pis
call (02) 213 4450. ∑ museedu Rues de l’Etuve & du Chêne, 1000 BRU.
costumeetdeladentelle.be Map 1 C3. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 71,
86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
Found within two 17th-century
gabled houses is the museum A wedding dress at the Musée du Costume An unlikely attraction, this tiny
dedicated to one of Brussels’ et de la Dentelle statue of a young boy barely
most successful exports, Belgian 61 cm (2 ft) high relieving
lace (see pp26–7). The intricate collection explains and displays himself into a small pool is as
skill employed by Belgian lace- the history of this delicate craft. much a part of Brussels as the
makers has contributed a vital The second floor houses a Trevi Fountain is part of Rome
economic role in the city since small collection of antique or Trafalgar Square’s proud lions
the 17th century, and the lace, carefully stored in drawers, are of London.
2 Hôtel de Ville
The idea of having a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth
as a major European trading centre had been under
consideration since the end of the 13th century. It was not
A detail of the delicately carved façade with
until 1401 that the first foundation stone was laid and the stone statues
building was finally completed in 1455, emerging as the
finest civic building in the country, a stature it still enjoys.
Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to design the
left wing and belfry of the building, where he used ornate
columns, sculptures, turrets and arcades. The tower and
spire begun in 1449 by Jan van Ruysbroeck helped seal its
reputation. In 1995, the 1455 statue of the city’s patron saint,
Michael, was restored and it now resides inside the tower;
a copy of the statue sits on top of the tower. Tours
are available of the interior, which contains
18th-century tapestries and works of art.
137 statues
adorn walls
and many
mullioned
windows.
. Aldermen’s Room
Still in use today for the meetings
of the aldermen and mayor of
Brussels, this council chamber
contains a series of 18th-century
tapestries depicting the history of
6th-century King Clovis.
The current statue of In 1698 the governor of

Manneken Pis by Jérôme the Netherlands, Maximilian The Legends of
Duquesnoy the Elder has Emmanuel, brought a gift to Manneken Pis
been in place since 1619. the city in the form of a blue The charm of this famous
However, there is evidence to woollen coat for the statue. statue comes from the many
suggest that a stone This is a tradition that rumours and fables behind it.
fountain depicting the continues today, with visiting One theory claims that in
same figure stood there heads of state donating the 12th century the son
before it, possibly as early miniature versions of their of a duke was
as 1451. In its long history, national costume. The little caught urinating
the statuette has been the boy now has a collection of against a tree in
victim of several thefts. A over 800 outfits, which are the midst of a battle
and was thus com-
particularly violent theft housed in the Musée de la
memorated in
in 1965 left the statue Ville de Bruxelles in the
bronze as a
broken in two pieces, Maison du Roi on the Grand symbol of mil-
leaving just the ankles Place (see p46), where itary courage.
and feet remaining. around 100 are on display The inspiration
The missing body of at any one time. Among for the statue has
the statue reappeared the collection are been revealed
a year later when it miniature samurai, Santa as Cupid.
was found in a canal. Claus and Elvis suits.
The belfry was built The gabled roof, like

by architect Jan van much of the town hall,
Ruysbroeck. A sta- was fully restored in 1837,
tue of St Michael and cleaned in
Grand Place, 1000 BRU
tops the 96 m the 1990s.
Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 279 2343
(315 ft) spire.
(general info); (02) 548 0447
Aldermen’s (for visits). Hôtel de Ville: Open
room for guided tours. Closed pub
hols, election days. & (tickets
at Hôtel de Ville or Grand Place
tourist office). 8 in English: Wed
2pm, Sun 11am, 3pm & 4pm.
∑ visitbrussels.be
Transport
@ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95.
v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
. Conference Room
Council Chamber
The most splendid of all the
public rooms. Ancient tapestries
and gilt mirrors line the walls
above an inlaid floor.
Wedding Room
A Neo-Gothic style dominates this
civil marriage office, with its many
ornate carved timbers, including
Banqueting room ancient ebony and mahogany.
4 Notre-Dame de
la Chapelle
Place de la Chapelle 1, 1000 BRU.
Map 1 C4. Tel (02) 538 3087. @ 27,
48, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q Anneessens,
Centrale. Open 9am–7pm daily;
Mass 4pm Sat, 8am, 9:30am, 11am,
5:30pm Sun.
In 1134, King Godefroid I

decided to build a chapel
outside the city walls. It quickly
became a market church, serv
ing the many craftsmen living
nearby. In 1210, its popularity
was such that it was made a
parish church, but it wasn’t Items for sale at the daily flea market in the Quartier Marolles
until 1250, when a royal
donation of five pieces of the p20), who is buried here.The stone gateway of the now
True Cross turned the church memorial plaque was made by demolished outer city walls.
into a pilgrimage site, that it Pieter’s son, Jan. Looming over the Marolles is
attracted real fame. the imposing Palais de Justice
Originally built in Roman (see p73), which has hilltop
esque style, the majority of 5 Quartier Marolles views of the area west of the
the church was destroyed by Map 1 C5. @ 27, 48. v 3, 4, 51, 92,
city, including the 1958 Atom
fire in 1405. Rebuilding began 94, 97. q Louise, Porte de Hal. ium (see p91) and the Basilique
in 1421 in a Gothic style typical SacréCoeur (see p89).
of 15thcentury Brabant archi Known colloquially as “Les
tecture, including gables deco Marolles”, this quarter of Brussels
rated with finials and interior is traditionally working class.
capitals decorated with cab Situated between the two city
bage leaves at the base. The walls, the area was home to
Bishop of Cambrai consecrated weavers and craftsmen. Street
the new church in 1434. names of the district, such as
One of the most striking Rue des Brodeurs (Embroiderers’
features of the exterior are the St) and Rue des Charpentiers
monstrously lifelike gargoyles – (Carpenters’ St), reflect its
a representation of evil outside artisanal history.
the sacred interior. The Baroque Today, the area is best known
bell tower was added after the for its fine daily flea market,
1695 bombardment by the held in the Place du Jeu de
French (see p36). Another Balle. The flea market has been
moving feature is the carved held on this site since 1640.
stone memorial to the Between 7am and 2pm, with
16thcentury Belgian artist the biggest and best markets
Pieter Brueghel the Elder (see on Thursday and Sunday, almost
anything from junk to prewar Outdoor tables at restaurants and cafés
collector’s items can be found close to Halles St-Géry
among the stalls.
Shopping of a different kind 6 Halles St-Géry
is on offer on nearby Rue Haute, Place StGéry 23, 1000 BRU. Map 1 C2.
an ancient Roman road. A @ 47, 86, 88, 95. v 3, 4, 32, 51.
shopping district since the 19th q De Brouckère.
century, it is still popular with
arty types with its specialist In many ways, StGéry can be
stores, and interior and antique considered the birthplace of the
shops. The street has a long city. A chapel to Saint Géry was
artistic history, too – the elegant built in the 6th century, then in
redbrick house at No. 132 was AD 977 a fortress took over the
home to Pieter Brueghel the site. A 16thcentury church
Elder and the sculptor Auguste followed and occupied the
Rodin had a studio at No. 224. location until the 18th century.
The elegant interior of At the southern end of Rue In 1881, a covered meat market
Notre-Dame de la Chapelle Haute is Porte de Hal, the was erected in NeoRenaissance
style. The glass and intricate alongside the Place de la

ironwork was renovated in Bourse. Medieval history must
1985, and the hall now serves have been far from the minds
as a local cultural centre with of the city authorities but, in
a lively café. the course of working on
the foundations, important
relics were found, including
7 La Bourse 13th-century bones, pottery
Palais de la Bourse, 1000 BRU. Map 1
and the 1294 grave of Duke
C2. Tel (02) 509 1373. @ 29, 38, 46, John I of Brabant. Visitors can
47, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 88. v 3, 4, 32. see these and other pieces in a
q De Brouckère. Closed to the public. small museum built on the site.
Brussels’ Stock Exchange,

La Bourse, is one of the city’s 9 Eglise St-Nicolas
most impressive buildings, Rue au Beurre 1, 1000 BRU. Map 1 C2.
dominating the square of Tel (02) 513 8022. @ 29, 38, 46, The beautiful 19th-century domed glass
the same name. Designed in 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. roof of Galeries St-Hubert
Palladian style by architect q De Brouckère. Open 8am–6pm
Léon Suys, it was constructed Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat, 9am–7:30pm 0 Galeries St-Hubert
from 1867 to 1873. Among Sun & public hols. Rue des Bouchers, 1000 BRU. Map 2
the building’s most notable D2. v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale. 7
features are the façade’s ornate At the end of the 12th century,
carvings. The great French a market church was built on Sixteen years after ascending
sculptor, Auguste Rodin, is this site but, like much of the the throne as the first king of
thought to have crafted the Lower Town, it was damaged in Belgium, Léopold I inaug-
groups representing Africa and the 1695 French Bombardment. urated the opening of these
Asia, as well as four caryatids A cannon ball lodged itself grand arcades in 1847.
inside. Beneath the into an interior pillar and St-Hubert has the distinction
colonnade, two the bell tower finally of being the first shopping
beautifully detailed collapsed in 1714. arcade in Europe, and one of
winged figures Many restoration the most elegant. Designed in
representing projects were planned Neo-Renaissance style by Jean-
Good and Evil were but none came to Pierre Cluysenaer, the vaulted
carved by sculptor fruition until 1956, glass roof covers its three
Jacques de Haen. when the west side sections, Galerie du Roi, Galerie
Once the scene of the building was de la Reine and Galerie des
of frantic trading, Detail of a Rodin statue, given a new, Gothic- Princes, which house a range of
La Bourse now La Bourse style façade. Named luxury shops and cafés. The
houses the offices after St Nicolas, the ornate interior and expensive
of Euronext, owners of the patron saint of merchants, goods on sale soon turned the
Belgian Stock Exchange, and the church contains choir galleries into a fashionable
all trading is computerized. stalls dating from 1381 which meeting place for 19th-century
The building is no longer open display detailed medallions society, including resident
to the public. telling St Nicolas’ story. Another literati – Victor Hugo and
interesting feature is the chapel, Alexandre Dumas attended
constructed at an angle, lectures here. The arcades
8 Bruxella 1238 reputedly to avoid the flow remain a popular venue, with
Rue de la Bourse, 1000 BRU. Map 1 C3.
of an old stream. Inside the shops, a cinema, theatre, cafés
Tel (02) 279 4350. @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 48, church, works of art by and restaurants.
63, 66, 71, 86, 88. v 3, 4, 32. Bernard van Orley and
q De Brouckère. Open 1st Wed of Peter Paul Rubens are
month: 10:15am (English), 11:15am well worth seeing.
(French), 2pm (Dutch); by appt only at
other times. & 8 obligatory, starts
from Maison du Roi, Grand Place.
Once home to a church and

13th-century Franciscan con-
vent, in the early 19th century
this site became a Butter Market
until the building of the Bourse
started in 1867. In 1988,
municipal roadworks began Gothic-style façade of Eglise St-Nicolas
theatre and it has been run

by the Toone family ever since;
the owner is the eighth
generation Toone VIII. The
classics are enacted by these
wooden marionettes in the
local Bruxellois dialect, and
occasionally in French, English,
German or Dutch.
e Théâtre Royal de
la Monnaie
Outdoor seating at restaurants along Rue des Bouchers Place de la Monnaie, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 229 1211. @ 29,
q Rue des Bouchers Théâtre
w
38, 46, 47, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 88, 95.
Map 2 D2. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, Marionettes v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère.
86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère, de Toone Open performance times, Tue–Sun;
box office: noon–6pm Tue–Sat.
Gare Centrale.
Impasse Ste Pétronille, 66 Rue du Closed Sun, public hols. & 8 on
Like many streets in this area Marché aux Herbes, 1000 BRU. Map 2 written request. ∑ lamonnaie.be
of the city, Rue des Bouchers D2. Tel (02) 511 7137. @ 29, 38, 46,
retains its medieval name, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. This theatre was first built in
q Gare Centrale. Open bar: noon–
reminiscent of the time when 1817 on the site of a 15th-
midnight Tue–Sun; theatre:
this meandering, cobblestoned century mint but, following
performance times 4pm Sat, 8:30pm
street was home to the a fire in 1855, only the front
Thu–Sat. Closed Mon, Tue & pub hols.
butchers’ trade. Aware of its & 8 on request, for tour
and pediment of the original
historic importance and reservations Tel (02) 217 2753. Neo-Classical building remain.
heeding the concerns of the Museum: Open intervals. After the fire, the theatre was
public, the city council ∑ toone.be redesigned by the architect,
declared this area the Ilot Joseph Poelaert, also respon-
Sacré (sacred islet) in 1960, A popular pub by day, at sible for the imposing Palais de
forbidding any night the top floor of this Justice (see p73).
of the architectural tavern is home to a The original theatre made
façades to be altered puppet theatre. During its historical mark before its
or destroyed, and the time of the Spanish destruction, however, when
commanding those Netherlands (see p36), all on 25 August 1830, a perform-
surviving to be restored. theatres were closed ance of La Muette de Portici
Hence Rue des Bouchers because of the satirical (The Mute Girl) began a national
abounds with 17th-century performances by actors rebellion. As the tenor began
stepped gables and aimed at their Latin to sing the nationalist Amour
decorated doorways. Harlequin rulers. This began a Sacré de la Patrie (Sacred love
Today, this pedestrian- puppet fashion for puppet shows, of the homeland), his words
ized thoroughfare is the vicious dialogue incited an already discontented
best known as the “belly of more easily forgiveable from city, fired by the libertarianism
Brussels”, a reference to its inanimate dolls. In 1830, of the revolutions occurring
plethora of cafés and restau- Antoine Toone opened his own in France, into revolt. The
rants offering many types
of cuisine. But the most
impressive sights during
an evening stroll along the
street are the lavish pavement
displays of seafood – piled
high on ice in winter – all
romantically lit by an amber
glow from the streetlamps.
At the end of the street, at
the Impasse de la Fidélité, is an
acknowledgement of sexual
equality. Erected in 1987,
Jeanneke Pis is a coy, cheeky
female version of her “brother”,
the more famous Manneken
Pis (see p49). The original Neo-Classical façade of Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie
of commercial shopping.
It houses wellknown inter
national chainstores and
shopping malls, such as City 2,
which has shops, cafés and the
media store Fnac all under one
roof. Inno department store was
designed by Horta (see p86),
but after a fire in 1967 it was
entirely rebuilt.
To the east of Rue Neuve is
Place des Martyrs, a peaceful
square where a monument pays
tribute to the 450 citizens killed
during the 1830 uprising.
= City 2
Rue Neuve 123, 1000 BRU. Tel (02) 211
4060. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Thu
The 19th-century glasshouse of Le Botanique in summer & Sat, 10am–7:30pm Fri. Closed Sun,
public hols.
impassioned audience ran into by the French architect
the street in a rampage that Gineste. This iron glasshouse
developed into the September still stands, as does much of u Hôtel Métropole
Uprising (see pp38–9). The the 19thcentury statuary by Place de Brouckère 31, 1000 BRU.
theatre remains the centre Constantin Meunier (see p21), Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 217 2300.
of Belgian performing arts. including depictions of the @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 63, 66, 71, 86, 88.
Major renovations took place Four Seasons. The glasshouse v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère.
during the 1980s: the audi is now home to the French ∑ metropolehotel.com
torium was raised 4 m (13 ft) Community Cultural Centre
to accommodate the elaborate and offers concerts and The area lying between Place
stage designs, but the luxurious contemporary art exhibitions. Rogier and Place de Brouckère is
Louis XIVstyle decor was known as the hotel district of
carefully retained and blended Brussels, and one of the oldest
with the new additions. The y Rue Neuve and grandest hotels in the area
central dome is decorated with Map 2 D2. @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 48, 58, 61,
is the Métropole.
an allegory of Belgian arts. 63, 66, 71, 86, 88, 95. v 3, 4, 25, 32, 55. In 1891, the Wielemans
q De Brouckère, Rogier. Brewery bought the building
and commissioned the architect
r Comics Art Shoppers in Brussels have been Alban Chambon to redesign the
Museum flocking to the busy Rue Neuve interior, with money no object.
since the 19th century for its The result was a fine Art
See pp54–5. reasonably priced goods and Nouveau hotel which opened
welllocated stores. Similar to for business in 1895 and
London’s Oxford Street, but now has since accommodated
t Le Botanique pedestrianized, this is the heart numerous acclaimed visitors,
Rue Royale 236, 1210 BRU. Map 2 E1.
including actress Sarah
Tel (02) 218 3732. @ 61. v 92, 93. Bernhardt. In 1911, the hotel
q Botanique. Open 11am–6pm was the location of the first
Mon–Fri, noon–6pm Sat & Sun (till science conference Conseil
10pm on concert nights. 7 - Physique Solvay, attended by
∑ botanique.be the great scientists Marie Curie
and Albert Einstein.
In 1797, the city of Brussels The Hôtel Métropole con
created a botanical garden in tinues to welcome guests from
the grounds of the Palais de all walks of life, at surprisingly
Lorraine as a source of reference reasonable cost given its beauty,
for botany students. The garden history and location. It is
closed in 1826 and new gardens particularly popular for drinks
were relocated in Meise, 13 km in its Café Métropole and on its
(9 miles) from Brussels. heated pavement terrace, which
A grand glass and iron are both open to nonresidents
rotunda was designed at Rue Neuve, the longest pedestrian to enjoy cocktails and coffees in
the centre of the gardens shopping street in the city elegant surroundings.
r Comics Art Museum

A unique and much-loved institution, the Comics Art
Museum pays tribute to the Belgian passion for comic
strips or bandes dessinées and to many world-famous
comic strip artists from Belgium and abroad.
Arranged over three levels, the collection is housed in a
Horta-designed Art Nouveau building. One of the most
popular permanent exhibitions is a tour of the great comic
strip heroes, from Tintin to the Smurfs, both of whose creators Three Comic Figures
were Belgian. Other displays detail the stages of putting Tintin, Professor Calculus and Captain
together a comic strip, from examples of initial ideas Haddock greet visitors on the 1st floor.
and pencil sketches through to final publication. The
museum regularly holds major exhibitions featuring the
work of famous cartoonists and studios, and also houses
some 8,000 original plates, displayed in rotation, as well
as a valuable archive of photographs and artifacts.
The Smurfs
These tiny blue characters first
appeared in the Spirou journal in
1958. By the 1980s, they had their
own TV show and hit records.
A Suivre
Founded in 1978, A Suivre
expanded the comic strip
genre, and led to the new
form of graphic novels: adult
stories in cartoon form.
Lucky Luke
The laid-back cowboy Lucky Luke and
his talented horse Jolly Jumper, created
by Belgian artist Maurice de Bevere
(“Morris”), form one of Europe’s most
enduring comic-book double acts.
20 rue des Sables, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 E2. Tel (02) 219 1980.
Open daily (library closed Mon).
&78-=
∑ comicscenter.net
Transport
@ 29, 38, 46, 47, 61, 63,
66, 71, 86, 88. v 3, 4, 32, 92, 94.
q Botanique, De Brouckère,
Rogier.
. The Light Room

This airy space designed
by Victor Horta features
stained glass and
wrought-ironwork.
Comic Library
The museum library
doubles as a study centre
for both art students and
enthusiasts of all ages.
This unique collection
includes a catalogue of
hundreds of old comic
strips, artists’ equipment,
biographies, comic novels
and photographs.
A Horta-Designed Building
This beautiful building was constructed between
1903 and 1906 to the design of the Belgian
Art-Nouveau architect Victor Horta.
Originally built as a fabric warehouse, and
known as the Waucquez Building, it was one in
a series of department stores and warehouses in
the city designed by him. Saved from demolition
by the French Cultural Commission of Brussels,
in 1989 the building re-opened as a museum
dedicated to the comic strip, Belgium’s so-called
Ninth Art (see pp24–5). Carefully restored, the
building has many classic features of Art Nouveau
design, including the use of curves on structural
iron pillars. In the impressive entrance hall is a
display of Horta’s architectural drawings for
the building, and on the right, the Brasserie Cast-iron pillar
Horta serves traditional Belgian dishes in a
The Changing Face charming glass and marble Art Nouveau setting.
of Hergé’s Tintin
Perhaps the best-known Belgian comic
character, Tintin made his debut in a
children’s paper in 1929. He began life as
a simple black line drawing, featuring the
famous quiff, but no mouth. By 1930 Hergé
began to produce Tintin in book-form and
gave him both a mouth and a more
complex character suggested by a greater
range of facial expressions. By the 1940s
Tintin was appearing in colour, alongside
such new characters as Captain Haddock, Horta’s drawing of the museum building
the Thompsons and Professor Calculus.
Neo-Classical cinema was become a sanctuary for Afghan

erected with an impressive refugees awaiting regularization.
Art Deco interior. During the The architecture is notable for
1960s, two imposing glass its Flemish Baroque details from
buildings blended the con- the 17th century, especially the
temporary with the classical. onion-shaped turrets and
Today, the varied historic ornamental walls. The nave is
architecture of Place de also Baroque, decorated with
Brouckère enhances one ornate winged cherubs, angels
of the city’s busiest squares, and scrolls. The confessionals are
despite the addition of carved with allegorical figures
advertising hoardings. and saints. A more unusual
feature are the aisles, which have
been widened to allow more
o Eglise St-Jean- light in. In the apse is a statue of
Baptiste-au- St John the Baptist. The 1757
Béguinage pulpit is a fine example of
Baroque woodcarving, showing
Nineteenth-century building in Place Place du Béguinage, 1000 BRU. Map St Dominic and a heretic.
de Brouckère 1 C1. Tel (02) 217 8742. @ 47, 88. q
Ste-Catherine. Open 10am–5pm Tue–
i Place de Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. Closed Mon. 7 p Théâtre Royal
Brouckère This stone-clad church was Flamand
Map 2 D2. @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 63, 66, 71,
consecrated in 1676 around Quai au Pierre de Taille 9, 1000 BRU.
86, 88. v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère. the long-standing and largest Map 1 C1. Tel (02) 210 1112. @ 47,
béguine community in the 48, 58, 61, 88. v 3, 4, 25, 32, 51, 55.
In 1872, a design competition country, established in 1250. q Rogier, Yser. ∑ kvs.be
was held to encourage the Fields and orchards around the
construction of buildings of site contained cottages and The former quay area of
architectural interest in de houses for up to 1,200 béguine Brussels, on the banks
Brouckère. Twenty winning women, members of a lay of the old River Senne,
applicants were selected and religious order who took up still survives as a reminder
commissioned to give promi- charitable work and enclosed that the city was once a
nence to this Brussels junction. living after widowhood or thriving port. In 1882,
The Parisian contractor Jean- failed marriages. In architect Jean Baes
Baptiste Mosnier was respon- medieval times, the was commissioned to
sible for taking the original béguines ran a laundry, enlarge one of the
plans through to completion. hospital and windmill for former waterfront
The French influence of the people of the warehouses and
Mosnier and his workers is still city. Still a popular then turn it into a
evident on the square. Many place of worship, the theatre – but was
of the buildings were erected church has also in asked to retain
in stone, common in France recent years the original 1780
at the end of the 19th century,
whereas brickwork was more
usual in Brussels. Several
original façades survive today,
including the 1874 Hôtel Conti-
nental by Eugene Carpentier.
One of the great hotels of
Brussels, the Hôtel Métropole
(see p53) is situated on the
south side of the square. The
1900–10 interior is splendidly
gilded and can be seen either
through the doorway or by
pretending to be a guest. Café
Métropole next door is, how-
ever, open to the public; here,
the lavishly ornate surroundings
date from around 1890.
In the 20th century, archi-
tectural style was still at a pre-
mium in the district. In 1933, a The ornate façade of Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au-Béguinage
façade. Baes solved this

problem by placing the façade The Béguine Movement
directly behind the frontage The béguine lifestyle swept across
of the new building. Other western Europe from the 12th
interesting design features century, and Brussels once had a
are peculiar to the late 19th community of over 1,200 béguine
century. The four exterior metal women. The religious order is
terraces and a staircase leading believed to have begun among
to the ground were built for widows of the Crusaders, who
audience evacuation in the resorted to a pious life of sisterhood
event of fire. Major renovations on the death of their husbands. The
have restored the fabric of the women were lay nuns, who opted for
original building and added a a secluded existence devoted to
second building. charitable deeds, but not bound by
strict religious vows. Most béguine
convents disappeared during the
Protestant Reformation in much of Béguine lay nun at prayer in a
Europe during the 16th century, but Brussels béguinage
begijnhofs (béguinages) continued to
thrive in Flanders. The grounds generally consisted of a church, a
courtyard, communal rooms, homes for the women and extra
rooms for work. The movement dissolved as female emancipation
spread during the early 1800s, although 20 convents remain,
including those in Bruges (see p103) and Ghent.
s Eglise Ste- Place Ste-Catherine was only

Catherine laid in front of this large church
Place Ste-Catherine 50, 1000 BRU.
after the basin once here
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 513 3481. was filled in; it was paved
The 19th-century interior staircase of @ 47, 88. q Ste-Catherine. in 1870.
Théâtre Royal Flamand Open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat, The central square was once
9:30am–7pm Sun. 7 on request. the city’s main fish market and,
though the market is now gone,
a Maison de la While a church was first built there are plenty of restaurants
Bellone here in the 15th century, the in which to indulge in a dish or
Rue de Flandre 46, 1000 BRU.
oldest remaining part today is two of Brussels’ famous seafood.
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 513 3333. the Baroque tower dating from The best places to look flank
@ 47, 88. q Ste-Catherine. Open 1629. Inspired by the Eglise the square: Quai aux Briques
9am–5pm Mon & Tue, 9am–7pm St-Eustache in Paris, the present and Quai au Bois à Brûler (Brick
Wed, Thu & Fri, noon–7pm Sat. church was redesigned in 1854–9 Quay and Timber Quay, named
Closed Sun, Jul. ∑ bellone.be by Joseph Poelaert in a variety after their industrial past)
of styles. Notable features of the both contain lively parades
This 17th-century aristocratic interior include a 14th-century of fish restaurants. Be warned,
residence, now shielded under a statue of the Black Madonna however, that prices tend to
glass roof, was once and a portrait of be quite high.
the headquarters of St Catherine – for
the Ommegang whom the church
procession (see p29). was built.
The original façade A typically Flemish
is notable for its pulpit was installed
decoration. There is at some stage; it
a statue of Bellona may have come
(goddess of war), from the parish of
after whom the Mechelen. Two
house is named, Stonework on the Maison impressive tombs
above the central de la Bellone were carved by Gilles-
arch, and the window Lambert Godecharle.
ledges have medallions of To the east of the church is the
Roman emperors. Tour Noire (Black Tower), a
Today, the house, its exhi- surviving remnant of the
bition centre and once-private 12th-century stone city walls.
theatre are open for dance and Although this area has been
cinema shows, and temporary dedicated to the saint since the The spacious Victorian interior of the Eglise
exhibitions of art and furniture. 13th century, the square of Ste-Catherine
Neo-Classical style architecture at the Palais de Justice, Brussels
.
VD
Sights at a Glance
BL
Historic Streets and Buildings 0 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de

2 Palais Royal pp62–3 Belgique pp66–71
4 Place Royale a Musée Wiertz Gare
6 Hôtel Ravenstein d Institut Royal des Sciences Naturelles Central
UR
8 Palais de Charles de Lorraine

N ERE
Churches and Cathedrals

P
q Place du Grand Sablon

M
AA
L’E
3 Eglise St-Jacques- D SL
E
e Place du Petit Sablon D. R

BLV E I Z E
sur-Coudenberg K
r Palais d’Egmont
w Notre-Dame du Sablon
t Palais de Justice
u Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule
o Square Ambiorix
pp74–5
STR.
E
NC
Parks and Gardens

OOG
i Chapelle de la Madeleine
E
R. G
TE H
ST RE
.
f Parc Léopold
STR
Theatres and Concert Halls

HAU
EN
g Parc du Cinquantenaire pp78–9

NIM
PS
RU E
SC LA
5 Palais des Beaux-Arts

HA
MI
NT E
Museums and Galleries

GE D
ES
Modern Architecture
IM
RE E
JARDINS
RU
IN
1 BELvue Museum and the D’EGMONT

M
p Quartier Européen TUIN

S
Coudenberg
DE
OO
s Parliament Quarter RL
E
7 Musée des Instruments de TE

RU
WA
Musique Shopping 120m
Louise DE
Louiza
9 Musée Charlier y Galérie Bortier .
VD
BL
THE UPPER TOWN

Brussels’ Upper Town is separated from was home to French-speaking aristocrats
the lower part of the city by an escarpment and royalty. Today, the Upper Town is
that runs roughly north-south from the far known for its beautiful Gothic churches,
end of Rue Royale to the Palais de Justice. modern architecture and fine museums.
Modern developments are now scattered The late 18th-century elegance of the
across the whole city, and the difference Parc de Bruxelles and Place Royale is
between the two areas is less distinct than complemented by “King of the Belgians”
in the past; traditionally, the Lower Town was Leopold II’s sweeping 19th-century
mainly Flemish-speaking and a bustling boulevards that connect the Parc du
centre for trade, while the Upper Town Cinquantenaire to the centre.
Restaurants pp153–4 12 Les Larmes du Tigre

1 L’Atelier Europeen 13 Lola
2 Bier Circus 14 Orphyse Chaussette
3 Le Cap Sablon 15 Les Petits Oignons
4 Comics Café 16 Restobieres
5 L’Ecailler du Palais Royal 17 Senza Nome
6 L’Entree des Artistes 18 Tutto Bene
7 L’Esprit de Sel Brasserie 19 Au Vieux Saint-Marten
8 L’Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles 20 Wine Bar Sablon
9 Havana 21 WY
10 JB
11 Kwint
See also Street Finder

maps 2, 3 & 4
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Street-by-Street: Quartier Royal

The Quartier Royal has traditionally been home to Brussels’ Rue Royale runs for 2 km (1 mile)
nobility and rulers. Chosen because the air was purer on from the Quartier Royal to Jardin
Botanique. In contrast to the
the hill than it was in the Lower Town, the area once known 18th-century Neo-Classicism of its
as Coudenberg Hill was occupied by the 15th-century beginnings, along its route many
Coudenberg Palace, home to the Dukes of Brabant and fine examples of Victorian and Art
Renaissance rulers. In 1731, the palace was destroyed in Nouveau architecture stand out.
just six hours by a fire. Slowly rebuilt during the 18th and
19th centuries, four new palaces and much of the park
were designed in Neo-Classical style, chosen by Charles
de Lorraine (see p37). Today, the royal quarter presents
a peaceful elegance, with some of Europe’s finest
18th-century buildings framing the tree-lined
paths and fountains of Parc de Bruxelles.
3 Eglise St-Jacques-
sur-Coudenberg
One of Brussels’ prettiest
churches, St-Jacques’
18th-century façade was
modelled exactly on a
classical temple. The barrel-
vaulted nave and half-
domed apse are sprinkled
with floral plasterwork and
ALE
contain several fine Neo-
Classical paintings
OY
E R
RU
4 . Place Royale
In the centre of this
attractive, symmetrical
square is a statue of
Godefroi of Bouillon, a
Brabant soldier who
fought the first
Catholic Crusades
and died in Palestine
E
L
A
Y
O
R
Key E
C
A
Suggested route L
P
Place des Palais

divides Palais Royal
and the park. In
French, “Palais” refers
to any large stately
building, and does
not necessarily have
royal connotations.
THE UPPER TOWN  61
. Parc de Bruxelles
On the site of medieval
THE LOWER
hunting grounds once used TOWN
THE UPPER
by the Dukes of Brabant, TOWN
the park was redesigned in
the 1770s with fountains,
statues and tree-lined walks.
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2
RU
E D
E L
A L
OI
Palais de la Nation
Designed by French
architect Barnabé
Guimard, the Palais de la
Nation was built in 1783
and restored in 1883 after a
fire. Since 1831, it has been
the home of both chambers
of the Belgian Parliament.
ALE
UC
E D
RU
2 . Palais Royal
The largest of the palaces, the low-rise
Palais Royal is the official work place
of the Belgian monarch and family.
PLA A flag flies to indicate when the king
CE
DE is in the country
S P
AL
AIS
Palais des Académies

Built in 1823 as the residence of the Crown Prince, this
0 metres 100
has been the private premises of the Académie Royale
0 yards 100 de Belgique since 1876.
1 BELvue Museum 3 Eglise St-Jacques-

and the Coudenberg sur-Coudenberg
Place des Palais 7, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E4. Place Royale, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E4.
Tel (02) 500 4554. @ 27, 29, 34, 38, 54, Tel (02) 511 7836. @ 27, 29, 34, 38, 54,
63, 64, 65, 66, 71, 80, 95. v 92, 93. 63, 64, 65, 66, 71, 80, 95. v 92, 93.
q Trone, Parc, Porte de Namur. Open q Trone, Parc. Open noon–2pm Mon
9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Tue, noon–5:45pm Wed–Fri, 1–6pm
& Sun. Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 21 Jul, 25 Sat, 8:30am–6:45pm Sun.
Dec. & 7 0 = ∑ belvue.be
The prettiest building in the
The BELvue Museum houses a Place Royale, St-Jacques-sur-
wide collection of paintings, Coudenberg is the latest in a
documents and other royal The Neo-Classical façade of the series of churches to have
memorabilia charting the BELvue Museum occupied this site. There has
history of the Belgian been a chapel here since the
monarchy from independence unique historical documents, 12th century, when one was
in 1830 to the present day. photographs, film extracts built to serve the Dukes of
Since 1992, it has been housed and objects. Complementary Brabant. On construction of the
in the former Hôtel Bellevue, temporary exhibitions focus Coudenberg Palace in the 12th
an 18th-century Neo-Classical on a particular theme, era or century, it became the ducal
building lying adjacent to perspective. The Coudenberg chapel. The chapel suffered over
the Palais Royal. A permanent is a separate underground the years: it was ransacked in
exhibition across nine rooms archeological site and museum 1579 during conflict between
presents the history of Belgium that is within the grounds Catholics and Protestants, and
through a collection of 1,500 of the BELvue Museum. was so badly damaged in the
2 Palais Royal
The Pilasters Room
The Palais Royal is the most important of the contains an original Franz
palaces around the Parc de Bruxelles and an Winterhalter portrait of the
first Belgian king, Léopold I,
official residence of the Belgian monarchy.
dating from 1846.
Construction of the modern palace began in the
1820s on the site of the old Coudenberg Palace
and continued under Léopold II (r.1865–1909),
when much of the exterior was completed.
Throughout the 20th century, the palace
underwent interior improvements
and restoration of its older
sections. It is open only
from late July to early
September, but this is a
fine opportunity to tour
Belgium’s lavish state
reception rooms.
. Throne Room
One of Brussels’ original state-
rooms, the huge throne room
is decorated in grand style,
with huge pilastered columns,
11 large candelabras and
28 wall-mounted chandeliers.
cupola was completed in 1849. two squares. However, in 1995,

The interior is simple and excavation work uncovered
elegant, with two large ruins of the 15th-century Aula
paintings by Jean Portaels on Magna, the Great Hall of the
either side of the transept. former palace. This was part of
the extension of the palace
started under the Dukes of
4 Place Royale Brabant in the early 13th century
Map 2 E4. @ 27, 29, 34, 38, 54, 63, 64,
and then developed under the
65, 66, 71, 80, 95. v 92, 93. q Trone, rule of the Dukes of Burgundy, in
Parc, Porte de Namur. particular Philip the Good. It was
in this room that the Hapsburg
The 19th-century cupola of Eglise The influence of Charles de emperor Charles V abdicated in
St-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg Lorraine is still keenly felt in the favour of his son, Philip II. The
Place Royale. As Governor of ruins can now be seen as part
fire of 1731 that destroyed the Brussels from 1741 to 1780, he of the BELvue Museum.
Coudenberg Palace that it was redeveloped the site once Although criss-crossed by
demolished soon after. The occupied by the Coudenberg tramlines and traffic, the Place
present church was built in the Palace along Neo-Classical lines Royale maintains a feeling of
Neo-Classical style and was reminiscent of Vienna, a city he dignity with its tall, elegant,
consecrated in 1787, although it greatly admired. cream buildings symmetrically
served several years as a Temple When the area was being set around a cobbled square.
of Reason and Law during the worked on, the ruins of the burnt- Visitors can tour the area on
French Revolution, returning to down palace were demolished foot, admiring the exceptional
the Catholic Church in 1802. The and the entire site was rebuilt as Neo-Classical buildings.
The Long Gallery features exquisite VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

late 19th-century ceiling paintings
representing Dawn, Day and Dusk. Practical Information
Place des Palais, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 E4.
Tel (02) 551 2020.
∑ monarchie.be
Open late Jul–early Sep: Tue–Sun.
Transport
@ 27, 29, 34, 38, 54, 63, 64,
65, 66, 71, 80, 95. v 92, 93.
q Trone, Parc, Porte de Namur.
Hall of Mirrors This large room is

famous for its grandiose effect
similar to the mirrored chamber at
Versailles. The ceiling is decorated
in green beetle and wing designs
by sculptor Jan Fabre.
The Empire Room
. Small White Room

Rows of 19th-century royal portraits
dominate this gilt chamber with its
large candle-lit chandeliers and late
18th-century furnishings.
Sadly, it fell into disrepair and

renovation took place in 1934.
One half is now a Belgian
restaurant, the other the Royal
Society of Engineers’ private HQ.
However, the pretty, original
inner courtyard can still be seen.
7 Musée des
Instruments de
Musique
Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000
BRU. Map 2 E4. Tel (02) 545 0130.
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95
The Victor Horta-designed façade of the Palais des Beaux-Arts
v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
5 Palais des 6 Hôtel Ravenstein Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
Beaux-Arts Rue Ravenstein 3, 1000 BRU. 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 =
Rue Ravenstein 23, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E3. Map 2 E3. @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 0 7 ∑ mim.be
Tel (02) 507 8200. @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 95. v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
66, 71, 95. v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Open restaurant only. Once a department store, the
Parc. Open box office: 11am–7pm building known as Old England
Tue–Fri, 1–7pm Sat. Closed public Over the centuries, the Hôtel is a striking showpiece of Art
hols. 8 - 7 ∑ bozar.be Ravenstein has been the home Nouveau architecture located
of patrician families, soldiers by the Place Royale.
The Palais des BeauxArts owes and court officials, and, for the Architect Paul Saintenoy gave
its existence to Henri Le Boeuf, past 100 years, the Royal full rein to his imagination
a musicloving financier who Society of Engineers. The when he designed these shop
gave his name to the main building was designed at premises for the Old England
auditorium. In 1922 he com the end of the 15th company in 1899. The
missioned the architect Victor century for Adolphe façade is made entirely
Horta (see p86) to design a and Philip Cleves of glass and elaborate
cultural centre that would house Ravenstein; in wrought iron. There
concert halls and exhibition 1515 it was is a domed gazebo
areas, be open to all visitors, and the birthplace of on the roof, and a
embrace the artistic fields of Anne of Cleves. turret to one side.
music, art, theatre, cinema, archi Consisting of two Surprisingly, it was
tecture and literature. The centre parts, joined by only in the 1990s
was the first of its kind in Europe. gardens and The façade of Old England that a listed building
The complex has a fine stables, it is the last policy was adopted in
reputation and has played remaining example of a Brussels, which has secured
a key role in the cultural life Burgundianstyle manor house. treasures such as this. The
of Brussels for more than 80 The Hôtel Ravenstein was building is now home to the
years. It is the focus for the city’s acquired by the town in 1896 Musée des Instruments de
music, hosting 250 classical and used to store artworks. Musique, known as the mim,
music concerts each year, and which moved from the Sablon.
is home to the Belgian National The collection of the Musée
Orchestra. The programme also des Instruments de Musique
includes about 50 concerts of began in the 19th century
rock, pop, jazz and world music. when the state bought 80
The complex also houses ancient and exotic instruments.
the CINEMATEK, set up in It was doubled in 1876 when
1962, with its fine archive and King Léopold II donated a gift
exhibition of old cameras and of 97 Indian musical instru
lenses. It screens classic films. ments presented to him by a
maharajah. A museum display
E CINEMATEK ing all of these artifacts opened
Rue Baron Horta 9, 1000 BRU. Tel (02) in 1877, and by 1924 it boasted
551 1919. Open 5:30–10pm (or end 3,300 pieces and was recognized
of screening if later) Mon–Wed, 2:30– as a leader in its field.
10pm Thu, 5–10pm Fri & Sat, 2:30– Today, the collection contains
10pm Sun. & 7 (use Rue Ravenstein The secluded inner courtyard of the Hôtel more than 6,000 items and
entrance).∑ cinematek.be Ravenstein includes many fine examples of
wind, string and keyboard 9 Musée Charlier

instruments from medieval Avenue des Arts 16, 1210 BRU.
times to the present. Chief Map 2 F2. Tel (02) 220 2691. @ 22, 29,
attractions include prototype 63, 65, 66. v 92, 93, 94. q Madou,
instruments by Adolphe Sax, Arts-Loi. Open noon–5pm Mon–Thu,
the Belgian inventor of the 10am–1pm Fri. Closed public hols.
saxophone, mini violins & 8 French & Dutch only.
favoured by street musicians, ∑ charliermuseum.be
and a violin maker’s studio.
In 2000, the museum moved This quiet museum was once the
to its specially designed home of Henri van Cutsem, a
home in the renovated wealthy collector and patron of
Old England building, the arts. In 1890, he asked the
where there is much architect Victor Horta to redesign
more room – three floors his house as an exhibition space
– in which to display this for his extensive collections.
world-class collection. The state room with marble floor at the When Van Cutsem died in 1904,
A popular feature Palais de Charles de Lorraine his heir, the sculptor Charlier,
of the museum is a cared for the house and the
unique infrared of Brussels during the mid-18th collections. On Charlier’s death
headset system, century. Few original features in 1925, the house and contents
which cleverly remain, as the palace was ran- were left to the city as a museum.
plays the music sacked by marauding French The Musée Charlier opened
of each instru- troops in 1794. The bas-reliefs in 1928. It contains paintings
ment as visitors at the top of the stairway, by a number of different artists,
Antique violin get nearer. representing air, earth, fire including portraits by Antoine
and water, reflect Charles de Wiertz (see p76), landscapes
Lorraine’s interest in alchemy. by Hippolyte Boulenger
8 Palais de Charles Most spectacular of all the and Guillaume Vogels, and
de Lorraine original features is the 28-point impressionistic still lifes by
star set in the floor of the James Ensor and Anna Boch.
Place du Musée 1, 1000 BRU. circular drawing room. Each The collection also includes
Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 519 5311. of the points is made of a a large number of sculptures
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95.
different Belgian marble taken by Charlier and others by Rik
from Charles de Lorraine’s Wouters, as well as glassware,
Open 9am–5pm first Sat of the
personal mineral collection. porcelain, chinoiserie and
month. Closed public hols, Jul &
Aug, last week in Dec. & 8 for The governor was a keen silverware. Of special note are
details Tel (02) 519 5786. patron of the arts, and the the tapestries, some from the
young Mozart is believed to Paris studios of Aubusson, on
Hidden behind this Neo- have performed here. The the staircases and the first floor,
Classical façade are the few palace houses the Bibliothèque and the displays of Louis XV-
rooms that remain of the palace Royale (Royal Library) and the and Louis XVI-style furniture
of Charles de Lorraine, Governor Musée du 18ème siècle. on the first floor.
Musée Charlier, home to one of Belgium’s finest individual collections of art and furnishings
0Musées Royaux des Beaux-

Arts: Musée Old Masters
The Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique is an umbrella
title covering several different museums around Brussels. The
three main ones, all located on the same site in the city centre,
are Brussels’ premier art galleries: taken together, the Musée
Old Masters, Musée Fin-de-Siècle and Musée Magritte (see
pp68–9) map the history of Western art in general, and Belgian
art in particular, from the medieval period to the postmodern.
Housed in a Neo-Classical building, the Musée Old Masters is Façade of the Museum
the largest of the three and dates back to the Napoleonic era, Corinthian columns and busts
when it consisted of the few valuable works left behind by of Flemish painters adorn
the entrance.
the French Republican army. This small collection grew and
the present gallery opened in 1887. The Musée Old Masters is
best known for the finest collection of 15th- to 18th-century
Flemish art in the world, from Rogier van der Weyden to
Rubens and van Dyck.
Ground
level
The Census at Bethlehem (1610)

Pieter Brueghel the Younger (c.1564–
1638) produced a version of this subject
some 40 years after the original by his Main entrance
father. Shown together, the two works
illustrate the development of Flemish
painting in its peak period.
Gallery Guide
The gallery is divided up into two
different eras of art, as shown in Entrance to
the key. Two large auditoriums on the museum shop
the ground floor and lower levels
are used for occasional lectures as . The Annunciation (c.1406–7)
well as presentations. Visitors can The Master of Flémalle (c.1375–1444) sets the holy
enter the Musée Magritte and scene of the Archangel Gabriel announcing the
from there, the Musée Fin de Siècle, impending birth of the Messiah in a homely,
via the escalator behind the contemporary setting, with daily objects an
museum’s restaurant. apparent contrast to the momentous event.
Upper
level Practical Information
Rue de la Régence 3, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 508 3211.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols.
78=-0
∑ fine-arts-museum.be
Transport
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71.
. The Assumption of
the Virgin (c.1610)
Pieter Paul Rubens (1577–1640)
was the leading exponent of
Baroque art in Europe, combining
Flemish precision with Italian
flair. Here, Rubens suppresses
background colours to emphasize
the Virgin’s blue robes.
Madonna with
Saint Anne and a
Franciscan Donor (1470)
Hugo van der Goes
(c.1430–82) was
commissioned to paint
this symbolic work for
the monk shown on the
right for his personal
devotional use.
To Musée Magritte and Musée
Fin-de-Siècle
Key
15th–16th century
17th–18th century
Temporary exhibitions
Lower level
Non-exhibition space
Auditorium
Interior of the Main Hall

Founded by Napoleon in 1801
to relieve the packed Louvre in
Paris, these are the oldest
museums in Belgium. More
than 2,500 works are exhibited
in the museums’ buildings.
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts: Musée

Magritte and Musée Fin de Siècle Level 4
These two museums of modern art are housed

in a unique setting: eight levels of the building are
underground, but a lightwell allows many of the
works to be seen by natural daylight filtering in from
the Place du Musée. The Musée Fin de Siècle focuses
on the late 19th and early 20th century, an incredibly
rich and varied period for European art during which
Brussels became a powerhouse for the Art Nouveau
movement. The city’s key role in the 20th-century
Level 3
Surrealism movement is celebrated in the Musée
Magritte, with its superb collection – the largest in
the world – of works by the Belgian master.
Level 2
Level 1
Le Joueur Secret (1927)

The Musée Magritte owns this work, painted during Magritte’s
self-titled “Cavernous” period. Level -1
To Musée Old
. The Domain of Arnheim Masters
(1962)
The museum contains the most
extensive collection of work by
surrealist René Magritte (see p21).
Here, an eagle-mountain rears
over a small bird’s nest. The
inexplicable nature of the eerie
composition draws its elements
into question, but answers are
made deliberately difficult.
Level -2
To Musée Fin
de Siècle
Gallery Guide
Access to the museums is available through the main ticket hall of the
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique. The Musée Magritte is arranged
in chronological order over six floors. Level -2 is a multimedia area, showing
Magritte’s films. From here, stairs lead further underground to the Musée
Fin de Siècle. The area shaded in green is the permanent collection, which
displays work from the 19th and 20th centuries.
Place Royale 1, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 508 3211.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols.
7 8 = ∑ fine-arts-
museum.be. Musée Magritte
∑ musee-magritte-museum.be
Transport
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71.
. La Seine à la Grande-Jatte (1888)
It was in this painting that Georges Seurat first
applied his pointilism technique on a large scale;
colour dots are juxtaposed and optically fuse in
the viewer’s eye.
Level -4
La Nature (1899–1900)
Czech artist Alphonse
Mucha was best known for
Level -3 his Art Nouveau poster
designs, but he also
created jewellery, stained
glass and sculptures like
this bronze, La Nature.
Level -6
Le Christ Vert ou
Calvaire Breton (1889)
In one of the key works of
Symbolism in painting, Paul
Gauguin depicts a Breton
woman at the foot of a
calvary, or sculpture of
Christ’s crucifixion.
Level -5
Key
Level -8
Musée Fin de Siècle: 19th
and 20th century
Musée Magritte: 1898–1929
Level -7 Musée Magritte: multimedia area
Temporary exhibitions
Exploring the Musées Royaux des

Beaux-Arts de Belgique
Six centuries of art, both Belgian and international, are
displayed in the museums that make up the Musées Royaux
des Beaux-Arts. The combination of the museums contains
works from many artistic styles, from the religious paintings
of the 15th-century Flemish Primitives to the graphic art of
the 1960s and 1970s. Regular temporary exhibitions are
staged at the museums, which are very well set out, guiding
the visitor easily through the full collection or, if time is short,
directly to the art era of special interest. Each section is Flemish still life, Vase of Flowers (1704) by
highly accessible, with both main museums divided into Rachel Ruysch
different sections which relate to the art of each century, collection of paintings by
taking the visitor through galleries representing the varied Baroque artist, Pieter Paul
schools of art by period. Rubens (1557–1640), which
affords a fine overview of his art.
detail is exquisite and provides As well as key examples of his
Musée Old Masters a fascinating window on the religious works, there are some
The Musée Old Masters exhibits textiles, architecture and faces excellent portraits, such as
works dating from the 15th to of the 15th century. Also on Hélène Fourment (c.1614–73), of
the 18th centuries. In the first display are works such as his young wife. Of special
few rooms are works by the Lamentation (c.1441) by Rogier interest are the sketches made
renowned school of Flemish van der Weyden, the city painter in preparation for Rubens’s
Primitives (see p20). As is the to Brussels during the mid-15th larger works, including Four
case with most art from century, and The Martyrdom of Negro Heads, for his iconic
the Middle Ages, the paintings Saint Sebastian (c.1475) by Adoration of the Magi (1624).
are chiefly religious in nature Bruges artist, Hans Memling Other works of note in this
and depict biblical scenes and (c.1433–94). section are the paintings by Old
details from the lives of saints. Another unique aspect of Masters such as van Dyck’s
Many of the works show deeds the section is the extensive Portrait of a Genoese Lady with
of horrific torture, martyrdom collection of paintings by the her Daughter from the 1620s
and violence, attended by the Brueghels, father and son. Both and Three Children with Goatcart
perplexing nonchalance of were renowned for their scenes (c.1620) by Frans Hals.
the elegantly attired bystanders. of peasant life. On display are Representatives of the later
A typical example is the diptych The Fall of Icarus (1558) by Flemish schools include Jacob
The Justice of Emperor Otto III Brueghel the Elder and The Jordaens and his depiction of
(c.1460) by Dirk Bouts, which Struggle between Carnival and myths such as Pan and Syrinx
includes a gory beheading (a Lent (c.1559) by his son, Pieter. (c.1645) and Satyr and Peasant.
famous miscarriage of justice In the following rooms are Baroque and Flemish art are all
in the 12th century) and an works from the 17th and 18th well represented in the museum.
execution by burning at the centuries. A highlight of this Also on display are some small
stake. At the same time, the section is the world-famous sculptures that were studies of
larger works by Laurent Delvaux,
a leading sculptor of the 18th
century. Most notably, Hercules
and Erymanthian Boar is a study
for the sculpture by the staircase
in the Palais de Charles de
Lorraine (see p65). Works of the
Italian, Spanish and French
schools are also represented,
notably the Classical landscape
painter Claude Le Lorrain’s poetic
scene of Aeneas Hunting the Stag
on the Coast of Libya (1672).
Other works on show include
Vase of Flowers (1704) by Dutch
artist Rachel Ruysch, who
specialized in still-life paintings
Lamentation (c.1441) by Rogier van der Weyden of flowers and fruits.
Musée Fin de Siècle

The Musée Fin de Siècle
showcases European and
international art from the end
of the 19th century and the
beginning of the 20th century.
This part of the museum has
become a flagship cultural
institution in the world of art
thanks to the exhibits from
the 31 different European
art academies who, in 1868,
created the Société Libre
des Beaux-Arts. The Société
introduced modernism and
the avant-garde to Belgium. The Orange Market at Blidah (1898) by Henri Evenepoel
The rediscovery of the
Primitives, Impressionism, Girl Mending (1890). Belgian Magritte entered the Brussels
Symbolism and Art Nouveau are van de Velde (1863–1957) Academie des Beaux-Arts in
all represented by such artists went on to become one of the 1916. A former poster and
as Khnopff, Seurat, Spilliaert, main founders of Art Nouveau advertisement designer, he
Gauguin, van de Velde, Mucha, in Belgium. created visually striking work,
Horta, Ensor and de Vlaminick. A highlight of the museum is frequently displaying a juxta-
There is an excellent collection the extraordinarily rich Gillion position of familiar objects in
of Symbolist art, such as the Crowet Collection of Art unusual, sometimes unsettling,
poetic and disturbing classics Nouveau, which includes combinations and contexts.
Des Caresses by Fernand Khnopff Alphonse Mucha’s La Nature Many of the artist’s best-known
(1858–1921), which shows an (see p69) and Fernand Khnopff’s paintings are shown here in a
androgynous figure nuzzling a Acrasia The Faerie Queen (1892). striking collection of more than
human head on a cheetah’s 200 works, including L’Empire
body. Léon Spilliaert (1881– des Lumières (1954) and La
1946) is included via his 1909 Musée Magritte Voleuse (1927).
symbolist landscape, The Dike. The works of the Belgian Of particular note are the
Many of the artists, such as Surrealist movement have long paintings that date from
Nice-born Henri Evenepoel proved a popular highlight of Magritte’s self-titled “Cavernous”
(1872–99), who brought his the Musées Royaux des Beaux- period of 1927–30. At this
distinctive post-Impressionist Art’s collection. The art of time, while living in Paris,
style to The Orange Market in René Magritte (1898–1967) in Magritte painted roughly a
Blidah (1898), deserve a close particular has created an extra- canvas a day. He then moved
inspection. There are charac- ordinary public fascination since back to Brussels, where he
teristically bizarre paintings by the increase in his popularity lived for the rest of his life.
proto-Expressionist James Ensor in the 1960s. The museum’s Powerful, arresting paintings
(1860–1949), including his 1892 collection of Magritte’s work on display from this later
work Singular Masks. began in 1953. To reflect public period include the eerie
Pointillism is represented by demand, and to afford the best Domain of Arnheim (see p68)
La Seine à la Grand-Jatte (1888) possible display, his work is now and the melancholic Saveur
by Georges Seurat (1859–91), housed in this separate section des Larmes (1948). A cinema
who developed the technique of the museum. shows films dedicated to the
(see p69), followed by Henry van Born the son of a wealthy artist and others who inspired
de Velde’s Village Events VII. The manufacturer in Lessines, his work.
Des Caresses (1896) by the symbolist artist, Fernand Khnopff.

carvings depicting the young

girl in a boat, since the statue
was destroyed in 1565.
The interior of the church is
simple but beautifully propor-
tioned, with inter-connecting
side chapels and an impressive
pulpit dating from 1697. Of
particular interest are the 11
magnificent stained-glass
windows, 14 m (45 ft) high,
which dominate the inside
of the church. As the church is
lit from the inside, they shine
out at night like welcoming
Fountain, a gift to the city, at Place du Grand Sablon beacons. Also worth a visit is
the chapel of the Tour et Taxis
q Place du well-known chocolate shop; at family, whose mansion once
Grand Sablon No. 12 is Wittamer’s pâtisserie, stood near the Place du Petit
which also has its own tea room Sablon. In 1517, the family had
Map 2 D4. @ 27, 38, 48, 63, 65, 66, on the first floor. tapestries commissioned to
71, 95. v 92, 93, 94, 97. q Gare Every weekend the area near commemorate the legend that
Centrale, Louise, Parc.
the church plays host to a lively led to the chapel becoming a
Situated on the slope of the and thriving, if rather expensive, place of pilgrimage. Some now
escarpment that divides antiques market. hang in the Musées Royaux
Brussels in two, the Place du d’Art et d’Histoire in Parc du
Grand Sablon is like a stepping Cinquantenaire (see p79), but
stone between the upper w Notre Dame others were stolen by the
and lower halves of the city. du Sablon French Revolutionary army
The name “sablon” derives Place du Grand Sablon, 1000 BRU.
in the 1790s.
from the French “sable” Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 213 0065. @ 27,
(sand) and the square is 38, 48, 71, 95. v 92, 93, 94, 97.
so-called because this old q Gare Centrale, Louise, Parc. Open
route down to the city centre 8am–6pm daily. 7 8 on request.
once passed through an area
of sandy marshes. Along with the Cathédrale Sts
Today, the picture is very Michel et Gudule (see pp74–5),
different. The square, more of a this lovely church is one of the
triangle in shape, stretches from finest remaining examples of
a 1751 fountain by Jacques Brabant Gothic architecture
Berge at its base uphill to the in Belgium.
Gothic church of Notre-Dame A church was first erected
du Sablon. The fountain was a here when the guild of cross-
gift of the Englishman Lord bowmen was granted
Bruce, out of gratitude for permission to build a chapel to
the hospitality shown to him Our Lady on this sandy hill. The magnificent interior of the church of
in Brussels. The square is Legend has it that a young girl Notre-Dame du Sablon
surrounded by elegant town in Antwerp had a vision of
houses, some with Art the Virgin Mary who
Nouveau façades. This is instructed her to take her e Place du Petit
a chic, wealthy and statue to Brussels. The Sablon
busy part of Brussels, girl carried the statue of Map 2 D4. @ 27, 38, 48, 71, 95.
an area of up-market the Virgin to Brussels v 92, 93, 94, 97. q Gare Centrale,
antiques dealers, down the Senne river Louise, Parc.
fashionable restaurants by boat and gave it to
and trendy bars, which the crossbowmen’s These pretty, formal gardens
really come into their chapel, which rapidly were laid out in 1890 and are
own in warm weather became a place of a charming spot to stop for a
when people stay Notre-Dame du pilgrimage. Work to rest. On top of the railings
drinking outside until Sablon window enlarge the church that enclose the gardens are
the early hours of the began around 1400 numerous bronze statuettes by
morning: a good place in which but, due to lack of funds, was Art Nouveau artist Paul Hankar,
to soak up the atmosphere. not completed until 1550. All each one representing a differ-
Wittamer, at No. 6, is a justifiably that remains today are two ent medieval guild of the city.
One of the lavish fountains in the gardens of Petit Sablon
At the back of the gardens is palace has twice been rebuilt, in t Palais de Justice
a fountain built to commem 1750 and again in 1891, follow Place Poelaert 1, 1000 BRU. Map 1 C5.
orate Counts Egmont and ing a fire. Today, it belongs to Tel (02) 508 6578. v 92, 93, 94, 97.
Hornes, the martyrs who the Belgian Foreign Ministry. q Louise. Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.
led a Dutch uprising It was here that Great Closed Sat & Sun, public hols. 7
against the tyrannical Britain, Denmark and 8 on request.
rule of the Spanish under Ireland signed as members
Philip II, and were beheaded of the EEC in 1972. Though The Palais de Justice rules the
in the Grand Place in 1568 the palace itself is closed to Brussels skyline and can be seen
(see p33). On either side of the public, the gardens, from almost any vantage point
the fountain are 12 further whose entrances are on in the city. Of all the ambitious
statues of 15th and the Rue du Grand Cerf projects of King Leopold II, this
16thcentury figures, and the Boulevard de was perhaps the grandest. It
including Bernard van Waterloo, are open. occupies an area larger than
Orley, whose stained There is a statue of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and
glass windows grace Peter Pan, a copy was one of the world’s most
the city’s cathedral, of one found in impressive 19thcentury
and the Flemish Kensington Gard buildings. It was built between
mapmaker ens, in London. 1866 and 1883 by architect
Gerhard Mercator, Statue of Peter Pan in Many of the gar Joseph Poelaert who looked for
whose 16thcentury Palais d’Egmont gardens dens’ buildings are inspiration in classical temples,
projection of the now run down, but but died midconstruction in
world forms the basis of the ancient orangery has been 1879. The Palais de Justice is still
most modern maps. restored and has a restaurant. home to the city’s law courts.
r Palais d’Egmont
Rue aux Laines, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E4.
@ 27, 34, 38, 48, 63, 64, 65, 66, 71,
80, 95. v 92, 93, 94, 97. q Louise,
Parc. 7
The Palais d’Egmont (also

known as the Palais d’Arenberg)
was originally built in the mid
16th century for Françoise of
Luxembourg, mother of the
16thcentury leader of the city’s
rebels, Count Egmont. This Detail of a cornice at the Palais de Justice
y Galérie Bortier quite a considerable sum in the Parisian style. The Rue de la
Rue de la Madeleine 55, 1000 BRU.
1840s. The 65m (210ft) long Madeleine itself also offers
Map 2 D3. @ 29, 38, 63, 66, 71. Galérie Bortier was built in 1848 plenty of shops for bibliophiles
q Gare Centrale. 7 and was designed by Jean and art lovers to browse.
Pierre Cluysenaer, the architect
Galérie Bortier is the only of the Galéries StHubert
shopping arcade in the city nearby (see p51). The Galérie
dedicated solely to book and Bortier opened along with the
map shops, and it has become thenadjacent Marché de la
the haunt of students, enthus Madeleine, but the latter was
iasts and researchers looking for unfortunately destroyed by
secondhand French books and developers in 1958.
antiquarian finds. A complete restoration of
The land on which the gallery Galérie Bortier was ordered by
stands was originally owned by the Ville de Bruxelles in 1974.
a Monsieur Bortier, whose idea The new architects kept strictly
it was to have a covered arcade to Cluysenaer’s plans and
lined with shops on either side. installed a replacement glass
He put 160,000 francs of his and wroughtiron roof made Crammed interior of a bookshop at the
own money into the project, to the original 19thcentury Galérie Bortier
u Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule

The Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule is the national church of The twin towers rise above
Belgium, although it was only granted cathedral status in the city. Unusually, they were
1962. It is the finest surviving example of Brabant Gothic designed as a pair in the
architecture. There has been a church on the site of the 1400s; Brabant architecture
typically has only one.
cathedral since at least the 11th century. Work began on
the Gothic cathedral in 1225 under Henry I, Duke of Brabant,
and continued over a period of 300 years. It was finally
completed with the construction of two front towers
at the beginning of the 16th century under Charles V.
The cathedral is made of a sandy limestone, brought
from local quarries. It was fully restored and cleaned
in the 1990s, a task that revealed all its splendour. Of
particular interest inside the cathedral are the Grenzig
organ and the Baroque pulpit depicting Adam and
Eve’s expulsion from Paradise.
. Last Judgement Window

At the front of the cathedral,
facing the altar, is a magnificent
stainedglass window of 1528
depicting Christ awaiting
saved souls. Its vivid reds,
blues and yellows place it
in the 16thcentury style.
The Renaissance panes are
surrounded by later Baroque
garlands of flowers.
Romanesque remains of the first church

here, dating from 1047, were discovered
during renovation work. They can be
seen and toured in the crypt.
i Chapelle de la
Madeleine
Rue de la Madeleine, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 410 2957. @ 29,
38, 63, 66, 71. q Gare Centrale.
5 9am– 8pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–8pm
Sat, 9:30–11:30am & 2–8pm Sun. 7
This church once stood on the

site now occupied by the Gare
Centrale, but it was moved,
stone by stone, further down
the hill to make way for the
construction of the Art Deco-
style station in the early 1950s. A view of the Chapelle de la Madeleine with restored brickwork
The 17th-century façade
of the church has been decor, with simple stone pillars people as a quiet place for
restored. The original 15th- and modern stained-glass worship. The Baroque chapel
century interior has been windows. Off the regular tourist which was once attached has
replaced by a plain, modest track, the chapel is used by now gone.
The transept Sainte Gudule

windows repre- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This 7th-century saint is very
sent the rulers dear to the people of
of Belgium in Brussels. Her relics were
Parvis Ste-Gudule, 1000 BRU.
1537–8. Jan scattered to the winds by
Map 2 E2. Tel (02) 217 8345.
Haeck made ransacking Protestants in
Open 7am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–
the designs 1579, but this only served
3:30pm Sat, 2–6pm Sun. &
after Bernard to reinforce her cult.
to crypt. 8 5 7 on request.
van Orley’s
∑ cathedralisbruxellensis.be
sketches. The Lectern
Transport
@ 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71. v 92,
93. q Gare Centrale, Parc
The Statue of
St Michael is the
cathedral’s symbol of its
links with the city. While
the gilded plaster statue
is not itself historically
exceptional, its long
heritage is; the patron
saint of Brussels, the
Archangel St Michael
is shown killing the
dragon, symbolic of his
protection of the city.
Sainte Gudule
. Baroque Pulpit
The flamboyantly carved pulpit in the central
aisle is the work of an Antwerp-born sculptor,
Henri-François Verbruggen. Designed in
1699, it was finally installed in 1776.
once was, this wonderfully though EU officials have access

ornate house, with its curved to the pool.
wroughtiron balustrades and This whole area is naturally
balconies, is a fine architectural full of hustle and bustle during
feat considering that the man the day, but visitors will find it
who designed it, Gustave much quieter in the evenings
Strauven, was only 22 years old and it can feel almost deserted
when it was built at the turn of at weekends. What is pleasant
the 20th century. at any time, though, is the
proximity of a number of
the city’s wonderful green
p Quartier Européen spaces, which include Parc du
Map 3 B3. @ 12, 21, 22, 27, 36, 60, 64,
Cinquantenaire (see pp76–7),
79. q Maelbeek, Schuman. Parc Léopold and the verdant
Square Ambiorix.
The area at the top of the
Rue de la Loi and around the
Schuman roundabout is where
the main buildings of the Euro
pean Union’s administration
can be found.
The most recognizable of
all the EU seats is the cross
The Art Nouveau façade of No. 11 shaped Berlaymont building,
Square Ambiorix a gigantic modernist structure
which is sometimes, rather
o Square Ambiorix unflatteringly, referred to as
Map 3 B2. @ 12, 21, 22, 29, 36, 60, 63,
the “Berlaymonster”. This is the
64, 79. q Schuman. headquarters of the European
Commission, whose workers
Close to the EU district, but are, in effect, civil servants of the
totally different in style and EU. The Council of Ministers, Paintings and sculpture on show in the
spirit, lies the beautiful Square which comprises represent Musée Wiertz gallery
Ambiorix. Together with the atives of memberstates’
Avenue Palmerston and governments, now meets in a Musée Wiertz
the Square MarieLouise the sprawling pink granite Rue Vautier 62,1050 BRU. Map 3 A4.
below that, this marshland block across the road from Tel (02) 648 1718. @ 12, 21, 22, 27,
was transformed in the 1870s the Berlaymont. This building 34, 36, 38, 54, 59, 60, 64, 71, 80, 95.
into one of the loveliest is known as Justus Lipsius, after q Maelbeek, Schuman, Trone.
residential parts of Brussels, a Flemish philosopher. Open 10am–noon & 12:45–5pm Tue–
with a large central area of Further down the road from Fri. Closed Mon, weekends, public
gardens, ponds and fountains. the Justus Lipsius building is hols. ∑ fine-arts-museum.be
The elegant houses have the Résidence Palace, a luxury
made this one of the truly 1920s housing complex that Musée Wiertz houses some 160
soughtafter suburbs in the city. boasts a theatre, an Art Deco works, including oil paintings,
The most spectacular Art pool and a roof garden, as well drawings and sculptures, which
Nouveau example is at No. 11. as several floors of private flats. form the main body of Antoine
Known as the Maison Saint Cyr, It now houses the International Wiertz’s (1806–65) artistic
after the painter whose Press Centre. Only the output. The collection fills the
home it theatre is open to studio built for Wiertz by the
the public, Belgian state, where he lived
and worked from 1850 until his
death in 1865, when the studio
became a museum.
The huge main room contains
Wiertz’s largest paintings, many
depicting biblical and Homeric
scenes, some in the style of
Rubens. Also on display are
sculptures and his death mask.
The last of the six rooms
contains his more gruesome
efforts, one entitled Madness,
The Justus Lipsius, the pink granite EU Council building Hunger and Crime.
d Institut Royal des

Sciences Naturelles
Rue Vautier 29, 1000 BRU. Map 3 A4.
Tel (02) 627 4211. @ 12, 21, 22, 27, 34,
36, 38, 54, 59, 60, 64, 79, 80, 95.
q Maelbeek, Schuman, Trône.
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri
(10am–6pm during school hols),
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon,
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 8 7 -
= ∑ sciencesnaturelles.be
The Institut Royal des Sciences

Naturelles is best known for
its fine collection of iguanadon
skeletons dating back 250
The European parliament behind the trees of Parc Léopold in the Parliament Quarter million years. The museum
also contains interactive and
s Parliament Parliament, offers an interactive educational displays covering
Quarter and impressively high-tech
introduction to this often
all eras of natural history.
Map 3 A4. @ 12, 21, 22, 27, 36, 38, 54, misunderstood institution.
59, 60, 64, 80, 95. q Maelbeek,
Schuman.
There is a space-age 360-degree f Parc Léopold
digital surround screen, a
Rue Belliard. Map 3 B4. @ 12, 21, 22,
Tunnel of Voices in which the
27, 36, 59, 60, 64, 79, 80. q Maelbeek,
The vast, modern, steel-and- multitude of EU languages Schuman.
glass complex, situated just can be heard, and a touch-
behind Quartier Léopold train screen feature that allows Parc Léopold is a public park
station, is one of three homes of visitors to meet the MEPs that occupies part of the
the European Parliament, the who shape European laws. grounds of an old estate.At
elected body of the European The Luna Game scavenger the end of the 19th century,
Union. Its permanent seat is in hunt – with a prize at the scientist and industrialist
Strasbourg, France, where the end – is designed to keep Ernest Solvay put forward the
plenary sessions are held once a younger children entertained. idea of a science park devel-
month. The administrative As this is a major government opment. Solvay was given the
centre is in Luxembourg and building, it is a good idea to Parc Léopold, the site of a zoo
the committee meetings take photo ID when visiting since 1847, and set up five
are held in Brussels. so as to ensure access. Visitors university centres here. Leading
This gleaming state-of-the-art should also expect airport-style figures including Marie Curie
building has many admirers, not security checks on entry. and Albert Einstein met here
least the parliamentary workers to discuss new scientific issues.
and MEPs themselves. But it is Parlamentarium The park is still home to many
not without its critics: the huge Rue Wiertz 60, 1047 BRU. Tel (02) scientific institutes, as well as a
domed structure housing the 283 2222. Open 1–6pm Mon, haven of peace in the heart of
hemicycle that seats the 700- 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat this busy political area. A walk
plus MEPs has been dubbed the & Sun. 7 - = around the pond follows the
“caprice des dieux” (“whim of the ∑ europarl.europa.eu old path of the Malbeek River.
gods”), which refers both to the
shape of the building – similar
to a French cheese of the
same name – and to its lofty
aspirations. Many people also
regret that, to make room for
the new complex, a large part of
Quartier Léopold has been lost,
though there are still plenty of
lively bars and restaurants on
Place Luxembourg, in front of
the parliament. When the MEPs
are absent, the building is often
used for meetings of European
Union committees.
Parlamentarium, the visitor’s
centre of the European Whale skeleton inside the Institut Royal des Sciences Naturelles
g Parc du Cinquantenaire
The finest of Leopold II’s grand projects, the Parc and Palais du
Cinquantenaire were built for the Golden Jubilee celebrations
of Belgian independence in 1880. The park was laid out on
unused town marshes. The palace, at its entrance, was to
comprise a triumphal arch and two large exhibition areas, but
by the time of the 1880 Art and Industry Expo, only the two
side exhibition areas had been completed. Further funds were
eventually found, and work continued for 50 years. Before
being converted into museums, the large halls on either side . Musée de l’Armée
Opened in 1923, the museum
of the central archway were venues for trade fairs, the last covers all aspects of Belgium’s
of which was in 1935. They have also been used for horse military history, and exhibits
races and to store homing pigeons. During World War II, the over 200 years of militaria.
Historic aircraft are on display
grounds of the park were turned over to vegetable growing
in the hall next door.
to feed the people of Brussels.
The Archway at the Centre of the Park

Based on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, the arch was not
completed in time for the 50th anniversary celebrations but
was finished in 1905.
KEY
Tree-lined Avenue
In part formal garden, part 1 Pavillon Horta
forested walks, many of the 2 The Grand Mosque was built as
plantations of elms and plane the Oriental pavilion for the 1880
trees date from 1880. Exhibition. It became a mosque in 1978.
3 Underpass
4 The park is popular with Brussels’
Eurocrats and families at lunchtimes
0 metres 100
and weekends.
0 yards 100
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Cinquantenaire Museum

Parc du Cinquantenaire 10. Tel (02)
Practical Information 741 7211. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri
Ave de Tervuren, 1040 BRU. (from 10am Sat, Sun and public hols).
Map 3 C3. 7 = Autoworld: (02) Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25
736 4165. Open 10am–5pm (Sat, Dec. & 7
Sun & Apr–Sep: to 6pm). & 7 Part of the Musées Royaux d’Art
- Grand Mosque: (02) 735 2173.
et d’Histoire, the Cinquantenaire
Open 9am–4pm Mon–Thu.
The Central Archway Museum has occupied its
Please dress with respect.
Conceived as a gateway into the present site since the early 1900s.
city, the arch is crowned by the Transport It houses four main collections.
symbolic bronze sculpture @ 12, 21, 22, 27, 36, 60, 61, 79, 80. Highlights of the Antiquities
Brabant Raising the National Flag. v 81. q Schuman, Mérode. department include superb
Roman mosaics from Apamea
(in modern-day Syria), excavated
by Belgian archaeologists in the
1930s, and the Lady of Brussels,
the name given to an Egyptian
stone statue almost 5,000 years
old. The National Archaeology
section covers items discovered
in Belgium from the Gallo-Roman
period to the Merovingians,
while Non-European Civilizations
Autoworld has a truly global reach, covering
Housed in the Byzantium and Islam, China,
south wing of the
Southeast Asia, India and the
Cinquantenaire Palace,
Autoworld is one of
pre-Columbian Americas.
the best collections of The final collection, European
automobiles in the Decorative Arts, has a fine set
world. There are some of galleries devoted to arts
300 cars, including an from the Middle Ages to the
1886 motor, and a Baroque, with examples of
1924 Model-T Ford Brussels and Tournai tapestries,
that still runs. and beautifully carved Gothic
wooden panels from medieval
church altars. Not to be missed
is the collection of objets d’art
from the Art Nouveau period.
Look out for sculptures in
precious metals and ivory by
such luminaries of the movement
as Philippe Wolfers and Charles
van der Stappen, and cabinets
designed by the great Victor
Horta for Wolfers’ own showroom.
Musée Royal de l’Armée et

d’Histoire Militaire
Parc du Cinquantenaire 3. Tel (02) 737
7811. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov,
25 Dec. &7
Together with a section on
aviation, displays here cover the
Belgian Army and its history
from the late 1700s to today,
including weapons, uniforms,
. Cinquantenaire Museum decorations and paintings.
Belgian architect Bordiau’s plans for the two There is a section covering the
exhibition halls, later permanent showcases, were 1830 struggle for independence
partly modelled on London’s Victorian museums. (see pp38–9). Two other sections
The use of iron and glass in their construction was show both World Wars, including
inspired by the Crystal Palace. the activities of the Resistance.
A 90-Minute Walk Around the Heart of Brussels

It is impossible to tire of the Grand Place, and there is no better Place St-Géry 7, some of the
place to start a walk that traces the history of the city. The route river can still be seen. Leave the
leads first to the island site where Brussels originated, and square by the Rue Pont de la
Carpe (carp bridge) and turn left
follows the watery landscape of the old, walled city before the at Rue Dansaert. 8
river and canals disappeared. The walk then passes the opera
house where Belgian independence was born (see p52), leads Place Ste-Catherine
on to the cathedral, and then to the grand Galeries Royales de The Rue du Vieux Marché
Saint-Hubert. Finally, it meanders through the Îlot Sacré, the aux Grains (old grain market)
opens up into the Place Ste-
web of medieval streets around the Grand Place.
Catherine 9, with the Eglise
Ste-Catherine (see p57) 0 in its
midst. Walk to the right of the
church; at the far end, on the
e
Ste-Cathérine
St- Katelijne
AA T
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The Grand Place, Brussels’ theatrical centrepiece STE-CATHERINE RU
ED
0 q E BI
SS
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Grand Place and Place St Géry chocolate-making. 9 PS
ST E
R
R
U WO I
Start with a quick wander Leave the square on De Brouckère TR ES

NS LL
RO N
.
LE HA
EV GE
around the Grand Place, to the Rue au Beurre

AL ES
EV IER
H D
N
RU NS
savour its magnificent gilded (butter), an appropriate

D
AA
RU
E A V
A
E AE
architecture (see pp46–7). The fact address for the

A R
HL
N T
LI
RT L
RU
TO S
AC
A DE
that this was once the medieval Biscuiterie Dandoy 1 at ED

IN TR.
SP
U
Z WU E
E
trading centre is recorded in the No. 31, famous for its M

AN
KI AR
8
R
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names of the streets all around it: traditional, buttery biscuits. EN E
M AU
Rue des Harengs (herrings), Rue On the opposite side of the AR X
H
KT PO
AC
Chair et Pain (meat and bread) road is the atmospheric Église Bourse UL
SP
Beurs ET
S
AN
and so on. At Nos. 9–11 Rue de St-Nicolas (see p51) 2, while

ST I
ID ID
la Tête d’Or is Choco-Story ahead lies the Neo- 5

R
ZU U M
Brussels, dedicated to educating Classical façade of the 6 3 2

D
D
AR
visitors about the history and Stock Exchange, La

R
4
EV
practice of traditional Belgian Bourse 3. Go left; facing 7

UL
BO
the Bourse on Rue Henri 1

Maus is Falstaff 4, one of the
Tips for Walkers few genuine Art Nouveau cafés
Starting point: Grand Place in Brussels, dating from 1903.
Length: 3.25 km (2 miles) Ahead lies the Boulevard
Getting there: The nearest Anspach 5; this was once the
Metro stop is Gare Centrale; route of Brussels’ river, the Senne,
numerous buses also go to the which was canalized and
Bourse, and to De Brouckère/ covered over in around 1870.
Place de la Monnaie a short The Halles St-Géry (see p50) –
walk away. the old meat market on Place
Stopping off points: This area St-Géry 6 – is now the hub
is packed with places to eat and of a trendy area of the city; this
drink. The area around Place Ste-
square was an island until the
Catherine is famous for its fish
mid-19th century, and the site of
restaurants. Among the many
attractive yet average estab-
one of Brussels’ earliest chapels.
lishments in the Îlot Sacré, Aux The River Senne still runs
Armes de Bruxelles stands out. beneath here; in the courtyard of 1 Traditional Belgian butter biscuits at
renovated apartments at No. 23 Biscuiterie Dandoy
T WO GUIDED WALKS  81
right, you will see the Tour Noire is maintained by the

(Black Tower) q. This is a rare numerous fish restaurants
remnant of the first ring of city in these streets. The Rue du
walls built to protect Brussels Peuplier leads to the Eglise
in the 13th century. Loop round St-Jean-Baptiste-au-
the eastern end of the Eglise Béguinage (see p56) e;
Ste-Catherine to the broad, this beautiful Baroque
open space lined by the Quai church once stood at the
au Bois à Brûler (firewood quay) heart of a béguinage (see
and Quai aux Briques (brick p57) that occupied much
quay) w. The area between of northwest Brussels in
them – filled with pools and medieval times.
fountains – was once a canal;
it was covered over in 1870, Place des Martyrs
and the fish market was and La Monnaie
relocated here. This tradition Via the Rue de Laeken, Rue
des Hirondelles and r The entrance to the Hôtel Métropole, one of
Boulevard Émile Brussels’ oldest Art Nouveau hotels
Jacqumain, you
RA will reach the of the Galeries St-Hubert
LA HE
AN
UX
CH
Place de (see p51) a, a magnificent
AX LP
OU
ST RUE
M DO
MI ST X
CH MI
Brouckère (see p56). shopping arcade built in
.A
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STR EL i KO OL S T R.
VD
AA
T On the opposite 1847. Walk through the
BL
u side is the Hôtel arcade to the point, halfway

t P LAC E DE S
MART YR S
Métropole (see p53) along, where it is intersected
y MART E LAAR S
P LE IN
r, one of the city’s by the pedestrianized Rue
R.
ST
r grandest hotels. From des Bouchers s, the “butchers

W
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the Boulevard street”, lined with colourful
NI
RS
BROUCKERE
VE
PLEIN
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Adolphe Max, turn restaurants. You are now in

EU
RU
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EN
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right to walk the Îlot Sacré, a term that dates
EN
RU
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E
through the Passage back to 1960 when this area
’A
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OU
du Nord t, a was decreed a “sacred island”
RU
PS
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LV E
PLACE
NG
RA
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DE LA
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p
built in 1882. At ment. Take the second left,
RU
the end lies Rue the Petite Rue des Bouchers
ED
EL
’EC
Neuve (see p53) y, d; halfway down, on the left-
UY
ER
SC
one of Brussels’ main hand side, is an alley called
H IL
DK
NA
AP
shopping streets. At the Impasse Schuddeveld,
SST
R one end you will find at the end of which is the
RU
ARE D
the Centre Théâtre Marionettes de Toone
EN ’ A
BE ER
RGN f Marionettes de Anspach, at the (see p52) f, the famous and
R
D a Toone puppet other City 2 (see historic puppet theatre. By
BESTR
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B
R
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p161). From here, continuing along the Petite
NH
the Rue St-Michel leads to the Rue des Bouchers and the Rue
O
R
U
Place des Martyrs u. In the Chair et Pain, you will return

W
AU D M
ER
N E
G
ST
GR X A TA middle is a marble statue of to the Grand Place.

R
AS H E RC H O NA AT
- M RB E
AR ES E
M R
L AG S T “Belga”, under which is a
D R
GRAND KT RUE B E mausoleum for the 450 “martyrs”
PLACE
GROTE killed in the 1830 Revolution
MARKT that secured Belgium its
independence. The building on
the north of the square, decked
with Flemish flags, is the seat of
the Flemish government i.
Retrace your steps, then continue
to the Place de la Monnaie o,
0 metres 100 the site of the fine Neo-Classical
0 yards 100 opera house, the Théâtre Royal
de la Monnaie (see p52) p.
Key
The Îlot Sacré
Walk route By walking some 200 m (220 yd)
along the Rue de l’Écuyer, you s Restaurants with outdoor tables on the
come to the northern entrance traffic-free Rue de Bouchers
A 90-Minute Walk in the Sablons

and Coudenberg
Brussels was historically divided into an Upper and Lower Quartier Marolles (see p50). If
Town. The Upper Town, on the Coudenberg (“Cold Hill”), you walk along Rue Haute to
was the royal quarter, the site of a palace destroyed by fire the north you reach the Tour
in 1731. This walk climbs gently from the Grand Place in d’Angle (or Tour d’Anneessens)
8, another remnant of the
the Lower Town, past remnants of the old city walls and the
old city walls.
working-class Marolles district, before entering the chic area
of Sablon. On the Coudenberg, the route passes the elegant The Sablon
18th-century palace of Charles de Lorraine before descending Walk up the picturesque Rue de
to Brussels’ cathedral and returning to the Grand Place. Rollebeek 9. At the top, take a
look down Rue Joseph Stevens to
where the Maison du Peuple 0
once stood on the Place E.
Vandervelde. Built for the Société
Coopérative, it was one of Victor
Horta’s great Art Nouveau
R AUR
D
masterpieces, but it was M
U
A X H AR
G
S- E C
M RB H
A E E
RK S
T
GRAND PLACE
GROTE MARKT
T
AA
TR
2
DS
Cafés and restaurants in the Grand Place, or Grote Markt 1 RD
APS
UI
MAR
RU
I Z
H
ED
3 FR
SC
E OM
TR S
ID
SS IER
ED
Manneken Pis and the street, the Rue de la Violette,
M
E R NN
RU
R.
ST
LO
A KRO
U
Marolles contains the lace museum, the 4

F
ED
R ME P E
O
O
BA
ST
OO S
Leave the Grand Place via the Musée du Costume et de la
RU
RD
SP DE
5
E
TR
UV
R
A
’ET
Rue Charles Buls, named after Dentelle (see p48) 3. Continue AT

RU
EL
PLACE ST JEAN
RD
a Burgomaster of the 1890s along Rue de l’Étuve 4, the

D
E
ST JANSPLEIN
CH
N R
E
E
who did much to preserve the site of a public bathhouse in EL
K S T R A AT
GADE L
ST ’HO
HU P
historic face of Brussels. At the Middle Ages. At the ISS ITA
TR L
R U E DR A P S T
the first crossroad is the Hôtel corner with the Rue du .

RU
T
Amigo 1, on the site of a Chêne is the famous statue of CE E

6
E L’ R A A
LL DE
EB S
prison named the Amigo by the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9) RO AL
ES C T
ER EX
SS IEN .
the 16th-century rulers of the 5. Take the Rue du Chêne, VD
AL
TR S
.
BL
IER
Spanish Netherlands. Opposite, then the Rue de Villers to

on the wall of Rue des Brasseurs reach the Tour de Villers 6,
1, is a plaque 2 marking the the remains of a tower 8
hotel where, in 1873, the French and section of the 9
poet Paul Verlaine shot fellow 12th-century city walls. Musee du Costume et
poet Arthur Rimbaud at the Across Boulevard de de la Dentelle 3 7
PL DE LA
.
CHAPELLE RUE S TE VENS S T R
end of their affair. The next l’Empereur is the church Chapelle KAPELLE
Kapelle MARKT 0
of Notre-Dame de la Chapelle
(see p50) 7, with its black bell
Tips for Walkers tower. Rue Blaes and Rue Haute
Starting point: Grand Place lead off to the south into the
Length: 3.4 km (2.1 miles)
Getting there: The nearest Metro
stop is Bourse; numerous buses
also go to the Bourse, and to De
Brouckère/Place de la Monnaie a
short walk away.
Stopping off points: The Place
du Grand Sablon has many fine
restaurants, a branch of Le Pain
Quotidien (No.14 in this walk),
and the cafés of Wittamer (No.13).
Near the Place Royale, Du Mim,
within the Musée Instrumental,
is recommended.
e High-quality patisseries at renowned chocolatiers Wittamer
T WO GUIDED WALKS  83
site of royal palaces since

medieval times. The present
royal palace is just around the
corner (see pp62–3), and is
directly connected to the Eglise
St-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg (see
pp62–3) o. On the opposite
side of the square is the Musée
des Instruments de Musique
(see pp64–5) p, which offers
spectacular views from the
rooftop terrace. Leave the Place
Royale by the cobbled Rue
i The Musées Royaux de Beaux-Arts de Belgique du Musée, which leads to the
Palais de Charles de Lorraine
demolished in (see p65) a. The Protestant
AN
RU
1965. The sloping Chapelle Royale s, to the right,
LA
ON E
AR E D
M D
T
AI D.
EN
triangular space
PLACE SAINTE-GUDULE was where King Léopold I
RL BLV
’A BE
EN
SINTER-GUDULEPLEIN
R R
G BE
ST R
RU
BE E D R G nearby is the worshipped. At the top of Rue
j
BE
E N ES
H O B OU
UW NE Place du Grand Ravenstein is the 15th-century
AG
ER
CH S
T
ON Sablon (see p72) q. Hôtel Ravenstein (see p64) d.
E RT R .
S
M AT
LA A
The fountain of You can see the spire of the
R UO K
E TR
AN ICE
E D RGS
E SU
RU IES
DE M
BE O N A AT Minerva w, in the Hôtel de Ville (in the Grand

R
L
L OST R
R
C O NST
K E I Z E R M P E R AT
X UA A
k E S IE
middle of the square, Place) over the gardens on the
MT
INLA
D ON
R DU
KAR CAR
D. M D. E OL was erected in 1751 Mont des Arts to the northeast.
RU K
ER ME
CIE RC
with funds from Thomas The modern building to the
B D D E L’ I
RS IE
TR R
T E R IJ Bruce, an exiled friend of left of the gardens is the

R U E DD A L E N
PUT
MA G
IE
King James II of England. The Bibliothèque Royale Albert I
ER
E LA AS
T
ES
PU
T Gare Centrale Sablon still retains an upmarket f, the national library. Walk
RD Centraal Station
M A TEE
air, and it is home to Wittamer through the gardens to the

D E NW
e, one of Brussels’ most equestrian statue of Albert I

LE EG
INE
A AT
ST RU celebrated chocolate (r. 1909–34) g, the “Soldier King”

STR IN
U E
IV D
EIN S T E
RU E ST
g h
ER ES
SS SO makers (shop at revered for leading Belgian
ST JA NSJE AN TR L
ST EN
ST R. A S
AT No. 6; café and troops in World War I. The arch
N V
VE R A
R MONT DES ARTS pâtisserie at No. 12). at the lower end of the street
U
RE f
R A UE
KUNSTBERG
PE AN d
At Rue des Sablons 11 called Mont des Arts has a
R
EM A
L’ RSL a is a branch of Le Pain carillon clock h on the side
s
DE IZE Quotidien r, famed facing up the hill that includes
K E
p for its bread and figures from Belgian history that
R.
ST
pastries. At the move on the hour. From here, a

AU
upper end of walk of 400 m (437 yd) leads to

R U E LEBE
PLACE
ROYALE the Place du the Cathédrale Sts Michel et
KONINGS
PLEIN Grand Sablon Gudule (see pp74–5) j. On the
i o is the beautiful route back to the Grand Place,
e Notre-Dame du stop in the Place Agora to
Sablon (see p72) t. admire Burgomaster Charles
CE
q R BO
AT
EN
On the Rue de la Buls and his dog, portrayed in a

RA
DE
G
w NBR O
RE
ST
ECK Régence, look right for a view of charming bronze statue k.

PS
LA
ST R .
r
A
the Palais de Justice (see p73) y.

E
CH
R AV
t
Z
DE EL
TS
Directly opposite you is the Place

E
RU
S ST
EN
SA R
du Petit Sablon (see pp72–3) u, a

G
BL AA
RE
O T
pretty garden with statues of

NS
medieval guildsmen.
u
y
Place Royale and Cathedral
Heading north along the Rue
de la Régence, you reach the
0 metres 100 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts
0 yards 100 de Belgique (see pp66–71) i,
the city’s most important art
Key gallery, which houses the
Musée Magritte. Beyond lies the
Walk route
Place Royale (see p63) on the h The modern carillion clock on the arch
top of the Coudenberg, the in the Mont des Arts
GREATER BRUSSELS
Past the heart-shaped ring-road of Brussels north, Heysel offers attractions whose
city centre lie 19 suburbs (communes) which modernity contrasts with the historical city
form the Bruxelles-Capitale region. While centre. The 1958 Atomium, now restored,
many are residential, a handful are definitely stands next to the Bruparck theme park. To
worth the short ride to sample outlying the east, the Central Africa Museum reflects
treasures of Brussels’ fascinating history. For Belgium’s colonial past in the Congo, and
fans of early 20th-century architecture, the the tram museum takes a journey through
suburb of St-Gilles offers numerous original Brussels’ urban past. Peace and tranquillity
examples of striking Art Nouveau buildings, can be found close to the metropolis, in the
including the Horta Museum. In Koekelberg orderly landscape of Royal Laeken and
and visible from the Upper Town is the huge the lush green spaces of the Bois de la
Sacré-Coeur basilica, started in 1904. To the Cambre and the Fôret de Soignes.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals Key
Parks and Gardens
8 Basilique Nationale du Sacré- 5 Fôret de Soignes Central Brussels
Coeur q Domaine de Laeken see pp90–91 Motorway
e Bruparck
Historic Monuments, Buildings Major Road
and Districts Museums and Exhibition Areas Minor road
2 Avenue Louise 1 Horta Museum see p86
Railway
3 St-Gilles 9 Musée du Tram
4 Ixelles 0 Musée Royal de l’Afrique
6 Uccle Centrale
7 Anderlecht w The Atomium
Antwerp
Wemmel
N12
Brussels
Airport
Zellik R2
1
Diegen
Ghent
1
A20 Zaventem
A10 Evere
Ganshoren Jette
Ste-Agatha- N2 Leuven
Schaerbeek
R0
Berchem
Koekelberg A2
R0
St-Josse Kraainem
R20
Molenbeek
Dilbeek N8 Woluwe-Saint-
BRUSSELS Lambert
Ninove Anderlecht
Etterbeek Woluwe-
N6 Saint-Pierre
St-Gilles
Ixelles
N3 Tervuren
Forest Auderghem
Watermael-
N5
N4
Uccle Boitsfort
A7
0 km 2
Drogenbos 0 miles 2
Ruisbroek Mons
The Atomium monument in the Heysel Park, Brussels For keys to symbols see back flap
1 Horta Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Architect Victor Horta (1861–1947) is considered by many Practical Information

to be the father of Art Nouveau, and his impact on Brussels Rue Américaine 25, 1060 BRU.
Tel (02) 543 0490.
architecture is unrivalled by any other designer of his time. Open 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
A museum dedicated to his unique style is housed in his Closed Mon, public hols. & 8
restored family home, built to his design between 1898 and
Transport
1901. His skill lay not only in his grand, overall vision but in his @ 54. v 51, 81, 92, 93, 94, 97.
equal talent as an interior designer, blending themes and q Louise.
materials into each detail. The airy
interior displays trademarks of the
architect’s style – iron, glass and . Central Staircase
Decorated with curved wrought
curves – in every detail, while iron, the stairs are enhanced further
retaining a functional approach. by mirrors and glass, bringing
natural light into
The bedroom the house.
features Art
Nouveau furniture,
including a
wardrobe inlaid with
pale and dark wood.
Front entrance
Madame Horta’s
sitting-room features
blue-and-cream wool rugs
woven to Horta’s design,
and a marble fireplace.
. Dining Room
White enamel tiles line
the walls, rising to an Living Room
ornate ceiling, The detail of Horta’s work can
decorated with the be best seen here, from
scrolled metalwork used sculpted bannister ends to
in other rooms. finely wrought door handles.
G R E AT E R B R U S S E L S  87
4 Ixelles
@ 34, 54, 64, 71, 80. v 7, 25, 81, 93,
94. q Porte de Namur.
Although one of Brussels’

largest suburbs and a busy
transport junction, the heart of
Ixelles remains a peaceful oasis
of lakes and woodland.
The idyllic Abbaye de la
Cambre was founded in 1201,
achieving fame and a degree of
fortune in 1242, when Saint
Boniface chose the site for his
Exclusive boutique in the chic Avenue Louise retirement. The abbey then
endured a troubled history in
2 Avenue Louise survivors which make the the wars of religion during the
Map 2 D5. v 81, 92, 93, 94, 97.
suburb well worth a visit. Art 16th and 17th centuries. It
q Louise. Nouveau and sgraffiti gems finally closed as an operational
(see p23) can be found in abbey in 1796 and now houses
Most visitors to Brussels streets such as Avenue Jean a school of architecture. The
travelling by car will come Volders and Rue Vanderschrick. abbey’s pretty Gothic church
across this busy thoroughfare, The Hôtel Hannon (1902) can be toured and its grassy
its various underpasses built remains one of the city’s most grounds and courtyards offer
in the 1950s and 1960s to link spectacular Art Nouveau a peaceful walk.
up the city centre with its structures. Restored in 1985, South of the abbey, the Bois
suburbs. In fact, the avenue it has a stained-glass window de la Cambre remains one of the
was constructed in 1864 to and ornate statuary that city’s most popular public parks.
join the centre with the suburb take this architectural style Created in 1860, it achieved
of Ixelles. The north end of to its peak (see p22). Art popularity almost immediately
the avenue retains a chic Nouveau details can be seen when royalty promenaded its
atmosphere; by the Porte in the nearby streets, particu- main route. Lakes, bridges and
de Namur, fans of designer larly in Rue Felix Delhasse lush grass make it a favoured
labels can indulge themselves and in the nearby picnic site.
in Gucci and Versace, as well as Rue Africaine. The Musée
investigating the less expensive One of the most d’Ixelles, also
but no less chic boutiques. striking features nearby, has a fine
The avenue also has its archi- of St-Gilles is collection of
tectural treasures. The Hôtel the Porte de posters by 19th-
Solvay at No. 224 was built by Hal. Brussels’ and 20th-century
Victor Horta in 1894 for the second set Art Nouveau detail on façade in greats, such as
industrialist Solvay family. Its of town walls, Rue Africaine Toulouse Lautrec
ornate doorway, columns and built in the 14th and Magritte, as
balconies are a fine example of century, originally included well as sculptures by Rodin. The
Art Nouveau style (see pp22–3). seven gateways, of which former home of one of Belgium’s
The house is a private home, Porte de Hal is the only sur- finest sculptors is now Musée
but visits can be arranged vivor (see p18). Used as a Constantin Meunier, with 290
(www.hotel solvay.be). At No. prison from the 16th to 18th sculptures and paintings by the
346, Hôtel Max Hallet is one of centuries, it was restored in artist, plus his studio preserved
Horta’s masterpieces, built in 1870. Today, it houses a small in its turn-of-the-century style.
1903. Continuing south leads to museum dedicated to medie-
peaceful Ixelles. val and Renaissance Brussels, P Abbaye de la Cambre
and is part of the Musées Ave Emile Duray, BRU 1050.
Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire. Open 9am–noon & 3–6pm Mon–Fri.
3 St-Gilles Closed public hols.
P Hôtel Hannon
@ 27, 48. v 3, 4, 51, 81. q Porte de E Musée d’Ixelles
Ave de la Jonction 1, BRU 1060.
Hal, Parvis St-Gilles. q Albert. Rue J Van Volsem 71, BRU 1050.
Tel (02) 515 6421. Open 9:30am–5pm
Named after the patron saint E Porte de Hal Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
of this district’s main church, Blvd du Midi, BRU 1000. Tel (02)
St-Gilles is traditionally one of 534 1518. @ 27, 48, 134, 136, 137, E Musée Constantin Meunier
Brussels’ poorer areas. However, 365. v 3, 4, 51. q Porte de Hal. Rue de l’Abbaye 59, BRU 1050. Tel (02)
amid the low-quality func- Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 648 4449. Open 10am–noon & 12:45–
tional housing are architectural 10am–5pm Sat & Sun & 7 5pm Tue–Fri. Closed public hols.
Anderlecht is now best known

as an industrial area, and for
its meat market and successful
football club, named for
the area. Fans of street-art
should look out for the bright
cartoon-like murals on Rue
Porcelaine, inspired by
Modernist Joan Mirò.
Although only a few pockets
of the suburb are now residen-
tial, during the 15th century
this was a popular place to live
and some houses remain from
The Forêt de Soignes, once a royal hunting ground and now a park that era. Maison d’Erasme,
built in 1468, is now named
5 Forêt de Soignes taking a trip here to visit the after the great scholar and
@ 17, 41, 72. v 44, 94. q Hermann Musée David et Alice van religious reformer, Erasmus
Debroux. 8 guided walks 10am Thu Buuren. The 1920s (1466–1536), who
& Sun (not Eng); recommended residence of this lived here for five
walking routes also available with Dutch couple is now months in 1521.
English translation on website. a small museum, The house was
Tel (02) 215 1740. ∑ sonianforest.be displaying their restored in the
eclectic acquisitions. 1930s and is now
The large forested area southeast Amid the Dutch a museum dedicated
of Brussels city centre, popular Delftware and French to the most well-
with locals enjoying a stroll, has Lalique lamps are regarded thinker
a long history: thought to have great finds, such as Mirò-style drawings, of his generation. It
had prehistoric beginnings, it original sketches by Anderlecht displays a collection
was here that the Gallic citizens Van Gogh. Visitors of 16th-century
suffered their defeat by the will also enjoy the modern furniture and portraits of the
Romans (see p33). However, the landscaped gardens at the rear. great humanist by Holbein and
forest really gained renown in van der Weyden.
the 12th century when wild E Musée David et Alice van Nearby is the huge edifice of
boar roamed the landscape and Buuren Eglise Sts-Pierre-et-Guidon.
local dukes enjoyed hunting Ave Léo Errera 41, 1180 BRU. Tel (02) This 14th-century Gothic
trips in the woodland. 343 4851. Open 2–5:30pm Wed– church, completed with the
The density of the landscape Mon. Closed Tue, 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & addition of a tower in 1517,
has provided tranquillity over is notable for its sheer size
the ages. In the 14th and 15th and exterior gables, typical
centuries it became a favoured 7 Anderlecht of Brabant architecture. The
location for monasteries and @ 46, 49, 75. v 81. q Bizet, life of St Guidon, patron saint
abbeys. Few have survived, but Clemenceau, St-Guidon. of peasants, is depicted on
Abbaye de Rouge-Cloître is a interior wall murals.
rare example from this era. Considered to be Brussels’ Illustrating a more recent
In a former 18th-century first genuine suburb (archaeo- history, the Musée Gueuze is a
priory is the Groenendaal logical digs have uncovered family brewery that has opened
Arboretum, in which more than remnants of Roman housing), its doors to the public to
400 forest plants are housed,
many extinct elsewhere.
r Groenendaal Arboretum
Duboislaan 6, 1560 BRU. Tel (02) 657
2203. Open 1–5pm Wed–Sun.
∑ bosmuseum.be
6 Uccle
@ 38, 60. v 3, 7.
Uccle is a smart residential

district, dotted with tree-lined
avenues. Not immediately a
tourist destination, it is worth Maison d’Erasme in Anderlecht, with its courtyard and fountain
9 Musée du Tram
Ave de Tervuren 364b, BRU 1150.
Tel (02) 515 3110/3108. v 39, 44, 94.
Open Apr–Sep: 1–5pm Wed (no
rides),1–7pm Sat, Sun & pub hols.
Group tours possible. Sun and pub
hols: three-hour round tour to Heysel
(leaves 10am). Closed Oct–Mar. &
This museum traces the history

of public transport in Belgium,
with marvellous displays of
heritage machinery. Horse-
drawn trams are available to
transport visitors round the site,
which features fully-working
early versions of the electric
tram, buses and plenty of
interactive exhibits.
The Basilique Nationale du Sacré-Coeur 0 Musée Royal de

l’Afrique Centrale
witness the production of burgeoning population of early Leuvensesteenweg 13, Tervuren
classic Belgian beers. 20th-century Brussels. He 3080. Tel (02) 769 5211. v 44.
commissioned the church in Open Reopening 2017 following
E Maison d’Érasme 1904, but the building was not renovation; phone or check website
Rue du Chapitre 31, 1070 BRU. finished until 1970. Originally for updates/new opening hours. &
Tel (02) 521 1383. Open 10am– designed by Pierre Langerock, ∑ africamuseum.be
6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, 1 Jan, the final construction, which
25 Dec. & uses sandstone and terracotta, In the 19th century, the colony
R Eglise Sts-Pierre-et-Guidon was a less expensive adaptation of the Belgian Congo was
Place de la Vaillance, 1070 BRU. Open by Albert van Huffel. Very much Belgium’s only territorial
2–5pm Mon–Fri. Closed Sat & Sun. a 20th-century church, in contrast possession. It was handed
E Musée Gueuze
to the many medieval religious back to self-government in
Rue Gheude 56, 1070 BRU. Tel (02) 521 buildings in the city centre, it is 1960 and eventually renamed
4928. Open 9am–5pm Mon– Fri, dedicated to those who died Zaire (now the Democratic
10am–5pm Sat. Closed Sun, public for Belgium, in particular the Republic of Congo). This
hols. & including 1 free beer. thousands of Belgian soldiers museum, opened in 1899, is
who were never to return from a collection gleaned from the
the two World Wars, killed in period of colonial rule, including
8 Basilique battles fought on their own soil. ceremonial African dress and
Nationale du The most dominating feature masks, and displays on colonial
Sacré-Coeur of the church is the vast green life. Dugout canoes, pagan idols,
copper dome, rising 90 m (295 ft) weapons and stuffed wildlife
Parvis de la Basilique 1, Koekelberg, above ground. For those who feature heavily and there is a
1083 BRU. Tel (02) 421 1667. do not manage to visit the horrifying collection of con-
q Simonis. @ 13, 14, 15, 20, 87.
church itself, it is this central served giant African insects,
v 19. Open summer: 9am–5pm
dome that is visible from many much enjoyed by children. The
daily; winter: 10am–4pm daily. &
8 by appointment.
points in the city, including the museum is currently closed for
Palais de Justice. renovation work.
Although a small and popular
suburb among Brussels’
residents, there is little for the
visitor to see in Koekelberg other
than the striking Basilique
Nationale du Sacré-Coeur, but
this does make the journey
worthwhile for those interested
in Art Deco.
King Léopold II was keen to
build a church in the city which
could accommodate vast
congregations to reflect the The Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale façade in Tervuren
q Domaine de Laeken
In the 11th century Laeken became popular among pilgrims
after reported sightings of the Virgin Mary. Since the 19th
century, however, it has been firmly associated in the minds
of all Belgians with the nation’s monarchy. A walk around
the sedate and peaceful area reveals impressive buildings
constructed in honour of the royal location, not least the
sovereign’s official residence and its beautifully landscaped . Pavillon Chinois
parkland. More surprising is the sudden Oriental influence. Architect Alexandre Marcel
designed this elaborate building
The great builder, King Léopold II, wanted to create an archi (built 1901–9) as part of
tectural world tour; the Chinese and Japanese towers (currently Leopold II’s grand vision.
closed for restoration) are the only two buildings that came to
fruition, but show the scope of one monarch’s vision.
. Serres Royales
These late
19th-century
glasshouses are
home to exotic
trees, palms and
camellias. Open to
the public annually
in April, they are the
king’s private property.
KEY
1 Parc Royal
2 Monument Léopold stands as
the focus of the park complex and
layout. It honours Léopold I, first king
of the Belgians. Built in Neo-Gothic
style, it has a filigree cast-iron canopy
and tracery around the base.
3 Place de la Dynastie is part of
the attractive park that was once the
Royal Family’s private hunting
ground.
4 Villa Belvedere is home to
King Albert II and Queen Paola, who
stayed here instead of moving to
the Château Royal on accession
to the throne.
5 Tour Japonais
6 Domaine Royale de Laeken is
the royal estate, adjacent to the Parc
de Laeken in the city district of Laeken; Château Royal
the woodland features old magnolias The Belgian royal residence was built in the late 18th
and blooming hawthorns. century by architect-contractor Louis Montoyer following
plans by renowned French architect Charles de Wailly.
Laeken, 1020 BRU.
Château Royal: Ave du Parc Royal.
Closed to public.
Serres Royales: Ave de Prince
Royal. Tel (02) 551 2020.
Open mid-Apr–mid-May
(phone for details). & 8–10pm
Fri–Sun.
Pavillon Chinois: Ave J van Praet
44. Closed for structural repairs.
Tour Japonais: Avenue J van
Praet 44. Closed for structural
repairs. &
Eglise Notre Dame de Laeken:
Paris Notre Dame. Tel (02) 479 The Atomium rising 102 m (335 ft) over the Bruparck at dusk
2362. Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun.
Transport
w The Atomium you around the landscapes of
@ 47, 49, 53, 57, 84, 88, 89. Square de l’Atomium, 1020 BRU.
the European Union. Built at a
v 3, 7, 19, 51, 62, 93. Tel (02) 475 4775. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7, scale of 1:25, the collection
q Heysel, Bockstael. 19, 51, 93. q Heysel. Open 10am– displays buildings of social or
6pm daily. & 0 ∑ atomium.be cultural importance, such as
the Acropolis in Athens, the
Built for the 1958 World Fair (see Brandenburg Gate of Berlin and
p39), the Atomium is probably the Houses of Parliament from
the most identifiable symbol of London. Even at this scale, the
Brussels. As the world moved detail is such that it can be
into a new age of science and second only to visiting the
space travel at the end of the sights themselves.
1950s, so the design by André For film fans, Kinepolis cannot
Waterkeyn reflected this with a be beaten. Large auditoriums
structure of an iron crystal, show a range of popular films
magnified 165 billion times. from different countries on
Each of the nine spheres that 24 screens. The IMAX cinema
make up the “atom” are 18 m features surround sound and
(60 ft) in diameter, and linked a semi-circular 600 sq m
by escalators and stairs. They (6,456 sq ft) widescreen.
include exhibition rooms and a If warmth and relaxation
smart restaurant at the top of are what you are looking for,
the structure. Océade is a tropically heated
water park, complete with
giant slides, wave machines,
e Bruparck bars, cafés and even realistic
Boulevard du Centenaire, 1020 BRU. recreated sandy beaches.
Tel (02) 474 8383. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7,
19, 51, 93. q Heysel. Mini-Europe &
Océade: Tel (02) 478 0550 (Mini-
Europe); (02) 478 4320 (Océade).
Open Mar–Sep: 9:30am–6pm daily
(Jul–Aug: to 8pm); Oct–mid-Jan:
10am–6pm daily. Closed end Jan–Feb.
& Kinepolis: Tel (02) 474 2600.
Open perfomances. & for films. 0
∑ minieurope.be ∑ kinepolis.be
Although nowhere near as large

or as grand as many of the
0 metres 250
world’s theme parks, Bruparck’s
0 yards 250 sights and facilities are a popular
family destination.
The first and favourite port
of call for most visitors is Mini-
Europe, where more than 300 London’s Houses of Parliament in small
miniature reconstructions take scale at Mini-Europe
The lively and colourful Bruges market
BEYOND
BRUSSELS
Bruges 98–107
Bruges Walk 108–109
Ghent 110–115
Antwerp 116–125
Antwerp Walk 126–127
Lier · Mechelen · Dendermonde
Pajottenland · Halle 128–129
Leuven 130–131
Waterloo · Ath · Ypres 132–133
A Tour of World War I
Battlefields 134–135
BEYOND BRUSSELS  95
BEYOND BRUSSELS
Brussels lies at the heart of Belgium, on the divide
between the Flemish north and the French-speaking
Walloon south. Its central position makes Brussels an BRUSSELS
ideal base for visitors: within easy reach by road and rail are
the historic Flemish cities of Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. All of
these cities have fine late-medieval architecture, superb museums
and excellent restaurants – yet each is markedly different in character.
Bruges is a pocket-sized gem of a city. and museums, canals and shopping

Flourishing on international trade, streets. The city also benefits from a
brought in on its canals, it was one of thriving university, which lends it a
the wealthiest cities of medieval Europe, youthful vigour.
and capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, Sitting on the bank of the broad
who were famed for their lavish lifestyles. River Scheldt, with direct access to the
Then it fell into decline until it was North Sea, Antwerp was and still is a
rediscovered in the 19th century and busy port-city. Outward-looking and
restored in glorious Neo-Gothic style. ambitious, it has an edge that has placed
Exquisitely beautiful, eminently walkable it at the forefront of fashion design and
and packed with romantic places to stay, contemporary art though it remains the
it has become one of Europe’s most home of Rubens, and embraces the
popular and rewarding destinations. legacy of his great Baroque age.
Ghent developed along a similar path, All around lie other extraordinary
and retained its medieval heart as it places – Mechelen, Ypres, Leuven and
became an industrial centre in the more – with a similar tale to tell and
18th and 19th centuries. With one of historic heritage to prove it. And just to
Europe’s most extensive pedestrianized the south of Brussels lies the battlefield
centres, it is a great place to wander of Waterloo, where the destiny of
around, while exploring its many sights modern Europe, no less, was decided.
Fine Flemish architecture on the banks of Bruges’ network of canals

Tall spires of the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp
96  BEYOND BRUSSELS
Exploring Beyond Brussels

Belgium occupies one of the most densely populated
parts of Europe, with a concentration of towns and villages
across the flat landscapes of the Flemish plain. Along the
North Sea coast, there are fewer settlements, set among
fertile farmland. To the north and west of Brussels are the
three easy-to-reach towns of Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges
which, with their ancient buildings and vibrant cultural life,
are attractive destinations. East of Brussels is the charming
university town of Leuven, and to the south of the city is
Bronze statue of Silvius Brabo in Antwerp’s
the site of Napoleon’s defeat at the hands of the British
Grote Markt
army at Waterloo.
Zeebrugge Knokke-Heist
Blankenberge
Oostende
BRUGES Maldegem
Zelzate
Eeklo
Wachtebeke
Gistel
Nieuwpoort Beernem
De Panne Eernegem
Koksijde Koekelare Zomergem Evergem
Ijzer
Torhout Aalter
Calais Veurne
Diksmuide Ruiselede GHENT
WEST- Lichtervelde
De Pinte
VLAANDEREN Deinze
Merelbeke
A TOUR OF Roeselare
WORLD WAR I Izegem
GavereOOST-
BATTLEFIELDS Langemark
Waregem
VLAANDER
Herzele
ie
Poperinge
Harelbeke
Le
Oudenaarde
Kemmel
YPRES Kortrijk t
eld
Menen Sch Brakel
Avelgem
Ploegsteert Mouscron Ronse Geraardsbergen
Lille Dottignies
Celles
Frasnes-lez-
re
nd
Buissenal
Scheldt
De
Tournai ATH
Attre
Leuze
Rumes Antoing
Bléharies
HAINA
Jurbise
Péruwelz
Valenciennes
Frameries
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Province border
View over Bruges from the Belfort

Getting Around
In Belgium, distances are short, with a
wide choice of routes – even the tiniest
village is easily reached. Brussels sits at
the hub of several major highways such
as the A10 and the A1 (which link the
capital to the country’s principal towns).
The fully integrated public transport
system has frequent train services and
a comprehensive bus network.
The imposing walls of Ghent’s

Rotterdam Het Gravensteen
Rotterdam
Kalmthout Mar
k
Brecht Arendonk
Sch
Turnhout
dt Brasschaat Westmalle Eindhoven
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Merksem
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Nijlen Geel
Niklaas Wilrijk Alb Mol
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EN Asse Herent Herk-

de-Stad
LEUVEN Glabbeek-
Ninove Brussels Zuurbemde
Onze Lieve Wezembeek-
Vrouw Lombeek Oppem Tienen
NLAND
OTTE Hamme-
PAJ Gaasbeek Sint-Pieters-Leeuw Mille Landen
HALLE
WATERLOO Liège
Enghien Wavre Jodoigne
Braine-l'Alleud
Hannut
BRABANT-WALLON
Éghezèe
Nivelles
UT Soignies Gembloux
Namur
Sombreffe
0 kilometres 15
Mons La Louvière
0 miles 15
Binche Charleroi Auvelais
Châtelet
Anderlues
Thuin
re
b
Sa m Sights at a Glance
Erquelinnes
1 Bruges 8 Halle
Beaumont 2 Ghent 9 Leuven
3 Antwerp 0 Waterloo
4 Lier q Ath
5 Mechelen w Ypres
6 Dendermonde e A Tour of World War I
7 Pajottenland Battlefields pp134–5
1 Street-by-Street: Bruges
With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. An unspoilt medieval town, Bruges’
winding streets pass by picturesque canals lined with fine
buildings. The centre of Bruges is amazingly well preserved.
The town’s trade was badly affected when the River Zwin
silted up at the end of the 15th century and Bruges was never
heavily industrialized, retaining most of its medieval buildings
as a result. As a further bonus, it also escaped major damage T
RK
in both World Wars. A
M
Today, the streets are well maintained: there are no
billboards or high rises, and traffic is heavily regulated. All the
major attractions are located within the circle of boulevards
that marks the line of the old medieval walls.
S
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A charming introduction to Bruges is B
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provided by the boat trips along the D

N
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city’s canal network. O

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Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

The Church of Our Lady employs many
architectural styles. It took around 200
years to build, and its spire is Belgium’s
tallest in brick.
Memling in Sint-
Janshospitaal
Six of the artist’s works
are shown in the small
chapel of the
12th-century Sint-
Janshospitaal, a city 0 metres 100
hospital that was still 0 yards 100
operating until 1976.
BRUGES  99
. The Markt VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Medieval gabled houses
line this 13th-century
market square at the * 119,000. n T’Zand, Markt 1,
heart of Bruges. It still
and Stationsplein. (050) 44 4646.
holds a market each ∑ brugge.be
Wednesday.
Transport
£ Stationsplein.
@ Stationsplein, Markt.
Oude Griffie, or Old

Recorder’s House
RG
BU
W
O
L
L
E
S
Alley of the Blind Donkey

T
R
This narrow, arched alley

A
leads from the Burg to the

A
T
19th-century Vismarkt.
I
A
A
K
ED
O
H
EN
Z
O
R
Heilig Bloed
Basiliek
R
VE
IJ
D
. Stadhuis
One of the oldest and finest town halls
Groeningemuseum in Belgium, this was built between
(see pp104–5) 1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
restored Gothic hall is noted for its
1385 vaulted ceiling.
Arentshuis Museum
Gruuthusemuseum
Key
(see pp102–3)
Suggested route
The Belfort
Built in the 13th century, the
Belfort or Belfry is a stunning
tower where the city’s
medieval charter of rights
were held.
Exploring Central Bruges was built of grey stone in 1662

in the Baroque style and boasts
Bruges developed around a 9th-century fortress, built to an ornate entrance.
defend the coast against the Vikings. Despite the vagaries of
P Stadhuis
successive invasions by the French, between the 14th and
Burg 12. Map B3. Tel (050) 44
16th centuries, Bruges became one of northern Europe’s most 8711. Open 9:30am–5pm daily.
sophisticated cities. Today, it owes its pre-eminent position to Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
the beauty of its historic centre, whose narrow cobbled lanes The intricately carved façade of
and meandering canals are lined by an ensemble of medieval the Stadhuis was completed in
buildings. These are mostly the legacy of the town’s heyday as 1376, but the niche statues are
modern effigies of the counts
a centre of the international cloth trade, which flourished for
and countesses of Flanders.
200 years from the 13th century. During this golden age, These were added in the 1960s
Bruges’ merchants lavished their fortunes on fine mansions, to replace those destroyed by
churches and a set of civic buildings of such extravagance the French army over a century
that they were the wonder of northern Europe. before. The building is still used
as a town hall. It is also a
popular venue for weddings.
Inside, a staircase leads up
from the spacious foyer to the
beautiful Gothic Hall, which is
open to visitors year round.
This magnificent parliamentary
chamber was built around 1400.
The ceiling boasts some lavish
woodcarvings including 16
beautiful corbels (brackets)
bearing representations of the
seasons and the elements. A
series of paintings around the
hall was completed in 1895,
each portraying a key event in
the city’s history.
Next door to the Stadhuis
is the Brugse Vrije museum,
which houses a massive
wood, marble and alabaster
chimney designed by Lanceloot
Blondeel. The chimney is one
of the best sculptural works of
16thcentury Flanders.
Bruges’ medieval buildings reflected in the Dijver R Heilig Bloed Basiliek

Burg 15. Map B3. Tel (050) 33 6792, 33
Getting Around 19thcentury colonnades. Fish 3767. Open 9:30am–noon, 2–5pm daily.
The centre of Bruges is com is still sold here early each The Basilica of the Holy Blood
pact, and it is easiest to walk morning and business is brisk. holds one of the most sacred
around. However, the bus reliquaries in Europe. The
service is useful for getting from P The Burg basilica divides into two distinct
the railway station to the centre. Map B3. sections, the lower part being
Halfhour boat trips along the This pleasant cobbled square a the evocative St Basil’s chapel
canals leave from several jetties. few metres from the Markt was with its plain stonepillared
From March to November, boats once the political and religious entrance and arches. The upper
depart twice every hour. focus of Bruges. It is also the chapel was rebuilt in the 19th
site of the original fort around century after the French
The Vismarkt which the city grew. Some destroyed it in the 1790s. Here,
Braambergstraat. Map B3. of the most imposing civic brightly coloured decorations
Open 8am–1pm Tue–Sat. buildings are located here. The surround a silver tabernacle of
From the Burg, an attractive beautiful sandstone Stadhuis or 1611 which houses a sacred
arched path called the Alley town hall has a façade dating phial, supposed to contain a
of the Blind Donkey (Blinde from 1375 and is adorned with few drops of blood and water
Ezelstraat) leads to the openair turrets and statues. In contrast, washed from the body of Christ
fish market with its elegant the Proostdij or Provost’s House by Joseph of Arimathea. The
BRUGES  101
phial was brought here from P Concertgebouw

Jerusalem in 1150, and is still ‘t Zand. Map A4. Tel (070) 22 3302.
the object of great veneration. Built as part of the celebrations
The church also has a museum for Bruges’ European City of
of paintings, vestments and Culture, this terracotta concert
other artifacts. hall features a 28-m (92-ft)
tower that offers great views.
P The Markt
Map A3. E Groeningemuseum
A market has been held on See pp104–5.
Bruges’ main square since the
10th century. It is an impressive R Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
open space lined with 17th- Mariastraat. Map A4. Tel (050) 34
century houses and overlooked 5314. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
by the Belfort on one side. The 1:30–5pm Sun & holy days.
oldest façade on the square Bruges’ Belfort or bell tower overlooking Closed during services; areas
(dating from the 15th century) the Markt including the southern aisle may be
belongs to the Huis Bouchoute, closed for ongoing renovations. &
which was the home of the trade. Inside, a winding staircase The Church of Our Lady took
English king Charles II during leads up, past the chamber over 200 years to build, starting
part of his exile in 1656–7. In where the town’s rights and in 1220. The interior, with its
the middle is a statue of Pieter privileges were stored, to the white walls, stark columns and
de Coninck and Jan Breydel, roof, where the views across black-and-white tiled floor has a
two 14th-century guildsmen Bruges are delightful. medieval simplicity, while the
who led a rebellion against the side chapels and pulpit are
French in 1302. Known as E Gruuthusemuseum lavishly decorated.
the Bruges Matin, they led See pp102–3. One of the church’s artistic
Flemish soldiers to attack highlights is Michelangelo’s
the French at dawn on E Arentshuis Museum sculpture Madonna and Child
18 May 1302, killing Dijver 16. Map B4. Tel (050) 44 8763. (1504–5), at the end of the
almost all of them. Open 9:30am–5pm daily. Closed Mon southern aisle. This marble
This bloody uprising (except Easter and Whit Mon). & statue was imported by a
paved the way for a The Arentshuis Museum is Flemish merchant, and was the
form of independence housed in an 18th-century only one of the artist’s works to
for the Low Countries’ mansion overlooking the leave Italy during his lifetime. In
major towns. Rights Dijver Canal. It is divided the choir there are fine paintings
such as the freedom into two sections, with by Pieter Pourbus including a
to trade were the ground floor given Last Supper (1562), and the
subsequently over to temporary art carved mausoleums of the
enshrined in the exhibitions. These often Burgundian prince Charles the
towns’ charters until focus on a single Bold and his daughter Mary.
the 15th century. Statue of Breydel and Pieter theme or artist
de Coninck and draw on
Historium Brugge the archives of
Markt 1. Map A3. Tel (050) 27 0311. the Groeningemuseum,
Open 10am–6pm daily. & - 7 offering the chance to
This inventive encounter with see some of the
the city’s past uses music, film museum’s more rarely
and a range of special effects to seen works. Upstairs is
give visitors a vivid sense of the the work of Frank
sights, sounds and even smells Brangwyn (1867–1956),
of 15th-century Bruges. a painter and sculptor
born in Bruges to Welsh
P The Belfort parents. Most of his
Markt. Map B3. Open 9:30am–6pm life was spent in Britain,
(last entry 5pm) daily. & but he bequeathed
The Markt is dominated by this collection to
this octagonal belltower, rising Bruges, as well as his
83 m (272 ft) above the square. drawings, furniture and
Built between the 13th and carpets. The dark and
15th centuries, it was used to powerful canvases
store the town’s charter, and is depicting industrial
therefore a constant reminder scenes are perhaps
of the city’s past as a centre of the most diverting. The soaring spire of the Vrouwekerk
Gruuthusemuseum
The Gruuthusemuseum occupies a large medieval mansion close to
the Dijver Canal. In the 15th century it was inhabited by the merchant 2nd Floor
(or Lord of the Gruuthuse) who had the exclusive right to levy a tax on
the “Gruut”, an imported mixture of herbs added to barley during the
beer-brewing process. The mansion’s labyrinthine rooms, with their
ancient chimneypieces and wooden beams, have survived intact and
hold a priceless collection of fine and applied arts. There are tapestries,
wood carvings, furniture and even a medical section devoted to cures
of everyday ailments. The kitchen and original 1472 chapel
transport visitors back to medieval times. The museum will be
closed for restoration until 2018.
1st Floor
Façade of the Gruuthuse

The museum’s Gothic façade, with its elegant
tower, stepped gables and fine stone windows,
was built in the 15th century.
Ground
Floor
. Charles V bust
This incredibly life-like
terracotta and wood
bust of Hapsburg king Entrance
Charles V was carved in
1520 and is attributed to
German sculptor Konrad Meit.
The Seven Free Arts

Dating from around 1675,
this exquisite tapestry
depicts the “free arts”, which
includes music.
BRUGES  103
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST E Sint-Janshospitaal

Mariastraat 38, 8000 Bruges.
Practical Information Map A4. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–
Dijver 17, 8000 Bruges. Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Nov. &
Map B4. This site has been occupied
Tel (05) 044 8743. since the 12th century by the
Closed for restoration until 2018. Sint-Janshospitaal, which closed
Transport as a working hospital only in
@ Markt. 1976. During Bruges’s Burgundian
Golden Age in the 15th century, House on the Southern Bridge at
the great painter Hans Memling Minnewater
(c.1430–94) created a number of
Gallery Guide exquisite paintings, commissioned Y Minnewater
Laid out over three floors, the specially for the hospital chapel Map A5–B5.
collection is organized into types in about 1479. The remarkable Just south of the Begijnhof,
of object from glassware, museum here today therefore Minnewater is a peaceful
porcelain and ceramics to has two aspects. First, there are park with a canalized lake.
medical instruments, in a series the evocative medieval hospital There were already swans here
of 22 numbered rooms. wards with antique beds, medical in 1448 when Maximilian of
Visitors may view the rooms instruments, paintings and Austria ordered they be kept in
in sequence from 1 to 22 documentation, as well as an memory of his councillor, Pieter
and get a good sense of the old apotheek (pharmacy). Then, Lanchals, who was beheaded
original uses and layout of in the open-plan site of the old by the Bruges citizens.
the house in doing so. chapel, there is the small but Once this was a bustling
supreme collection of Memling’s harbour which connected to
paintings, including the St the canal network and the
Ursula Shrine, a reliquary sea. It is now a popular spot
painted with scenes from for walkers and picnickers
the legend of St Ursula. who may view the pretty
15th-century lock gate and
R St Salvators-Kathedraal house and the 1398 tower
Steenstraat 1, 8000 Bruges. Map A4. (Poedertoren). There is an
Tel (050) 33 61 88. Open daily. adjoining park which holds
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & music concerts in summer.
Built as a parish church from
the 12th and 15th centuries, P Begijnhof
this large, yellow-brick building Wijngaardplein 1, 8000 Bruges. Map
. Chapel became Bruges’ cathedral in A4–A5. Tel (050) 33 00 11. Open daily.
Built in 1472, this oak-panelled 1834 when the French army Beguines were members of a
chapel on the museum’s second destroyed the existing one. The lay sisterhood active between
floor overlooks the high altar interior is enormous and quite the 13th and 16th centuries.
of the church next door. plain except for a handsome set They lived and dressed as nuns
of Brussels’ tapestries hanging in but did not take vows and
Key to Floorplan the choir, and a 1682 organ were therefore able to return
Glassware, porcelain and ceramics
adorned with angels. to the secular world at will.
The begijnhof or beguinage
Kitchen
is the walled complex in a town
Chapel that housed the beguines. In
Musical instruments Bruges, this is an area of quiet
Coins tree-lined canals faced by white,
Tapestries
gabled houses, with a pleasant
green at its centre. Visitors and
Tools, weights and measures
locals enjoy strolling here and
Entrance hall may visit the small, simple
Textiles and lace church which was built in
Household implements 1602. The nuns who live in
the houses are no longer
Renaissance works
beguines, but Benedictine
Baroque works sisters who moved here in the
Reliquary and furniture 1930s. One of the houses is
Medical instruments open to visitors and displays
Great Hall simple rustic furniture and
Pale brick tower of St Salvators-Kathedraal artifacts that illustrate the
Weaponry
in Bruges women’s contemplative lives.
Groeningemuseum
Bruges’ premier fine arts museum, the Groeninge
holds a fabulous collection of early Flemish and Dutch
masters, featuring artists such as Jan van Eyck (d.1441)
and Hieronymous Bosch (1450–94), famous for the
strange freakish creatures of his moral allegories. Hugo
van der Goes is well represented too, as is Gerard David
(d.1523). These early works are displayed on the ground . Virgin and Child with Canon
floor of the museum, as well as a collection of later (1436)
Belgian painters, most notably Paul Delvaux (1897– Jan van Eyck’s richly detailed painting
1994) and René Magritte (1898–1967). Originally built is noted for its realism. It shows van
Eyck’s patron, the canon, being
between 1929 and 1930 on land belonging to the presented to St Donatian by
former Eekhout Abbey, the museum is small and St George.
displays its collection in rotation, along with various
temporary exhibitions.
. The Moreel Triptych

(1484)
This panel of the triptych,
by German-born artist
Hans Memling, was
designed to adorn the
altar in a Bruges church.
It depicts the prominent
Bruges family Moreel,
and is said to be the first
ever group portrait.
Last Judgement
Painted on three oak panels in the early
16th century, this detail from Hieronymous
Bosch’s famous triptych depicts scenes of
cruelty and torture. The strong moral tone of
the work suggests that man’s sinful nature has
created a hell on earth.
Portrait of Bruges Family

(1645)
Jacob van Oost the Elder’s
focus on the affluence of this
family surveying their
beloved city shows why he
was Bruges’ most popular
artist of the Baroque period.
BRUGES  105
Judgement of Cambyses
(1498)
Originally commissioned
by the city of Bruges for
Dijver 12, 8000 Bruges.
the town hall, this left
Map B4.
panel of a diptych by
Tel (050) 44 8743.
Gerard David depicts a
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
judge sentenced to be
(tickets till 4:30pm). Closed 1 Jan,
flayed alive.
25 Dec. & 7
∑ bezoekers.brugge.be
Transport
@ Markt.
Household Cares
(1913)
Rik Wouters used
his wife Nel as
the model for this
statue, cast in
bronze. The work’s
Fauvist style (see
p21) is reflected in
the bold planes that
First floor
enhance the figure’s
anxious stance.
Entrance
Serenity (1970)
This representative
work by Paul Delvaux
was commissioned by
the museum, and
retains elements
of the artist’s
surrealist style.
Gallery Guide
The Groeningemuseum is
divided between two buildings.
The main portion of the museum
Key is on one level with a series of
Museum Façade
rooms displaying the early Originally built in 1930, the gallery
15th and 16th centuries
Flemish masters as well as works was extended in 1994 to a design
17th to 19th centuries from the 17th to 20th centuries. by architect Joseph Viérin. The old
20th century Nearby, the Arentshuis (see p101), entrance is based on that of a
Cabinet displays displays temporary exhibitions Romanesque convent.
and houses a permanent
collection of work by the artist
Frank Brangwyn on its first floor.
Exploring Northeast Bruges

In the height of the summer and on holiday weekends,
tourists pour into Bruges, and parts of the city centre often
get too crowded for comfort. Fortunately, the narrow cobbled
streets and picturesque canals to the northeast of the Markt
never suffer from this, and this fascinating area remains one
of the most delightful parts of Bruges. Streets of charming
terraced houses are dotted with grand, yet elegant
18th-century mansions. The best approach is via Jan van
Eyckplein, in medieval times the city’s busiest harbour, from
where it is a short stroll along Spinolarei and Potterierei
streets to the many museums and churches that are found in
this historic district.
dead”, as its name roughly The historic buildings and lovely canals of
translates, is located just northeast Bruges
south of the Kruispoort and
commemorates a dozen men demons. Behind the altar is a
executed by German firing smaller vaulted chapel; leading
squad in 1916. Eleven of them from this is a narrow tunnel
were Belgian, shot for resisting guarded by an iron grate. Along
German rule. The twelfth was the tunnel, a lifelike model of
Captain Fryatt, a British mer- Christ in the Tomb can be seen
Lace-making skills on show at chant navy officer. His arrest at close quarters.
the Kantcentrum lace centre and execution here caused
almost as much outrage P The Kruispoort and
P Kantcentrum around Europe as the death the Windmills
Balstraat 16. Map C2. Tel (050) 33 0072. of Edith Cavell in Brussels a Map C2.
Open Mon–Sat (daily Apr–Sep). & year earlier. Medieval Bruges was heavily
The area from the white- fortified. It was encircled
washed cottages to the east R Jeruzalemkerk by a city wall which was itself
of Potterierei Street is one of Peperstraat. Map B3. Open Mon– protected by a moat and
several old neighbourhoods Sat. & strengthened by a series of
where the city’s lace workers The Jeruzalemkerk is Bruges’ massive gates. Most of the
plied their craft. Mostly, the most unusual church. The wall was knocked down in the
women worked at home, present building dates from 19th century, but the moat
receiving their raw materials the 15th century, and was built has survived and so has one
from a supplier who also on the site of a
bought the finished product. 13th-century chapel
Lace-making skills are kept commissioned by
alive at the Kantcentrum, the a family of wealthy
Lace Centre on Balstraat, where Italian merchants,
local women (and a few men) the Adornes family,
fashion lace in a variety of whose black marble
styles, both modern and tomb can be seen
traditional. It is a busy place, inside. Based on
and visitors can see the the design of the
lace-making demonstrations church of the
held on Monday to Saturday Holy Sepulchre in
afternoons in the summer. Jerusalem, the
Some of the finished pieces are structure possesses
sold in the Kantcentrum shop a striking tower with
at very reasonable prices. two tiers of wooden,
polygon-shaped
P Beluik der Gefusilleerden lanterns topped by a
Map C3. tin orb. Inside, the
Bruges was occupied by the lower level contains
German Army during both a macabre altarpiece,
World Wars. The bullet-marked carved with skulls
“Wall of those who were shot and assorted The Jeruzalemkerk, built in 1497
BRUGES  107
of the gates, the Kruispoort,

a monumental structure
dating from 1402 that guards
the eastern approach to the
city. The earthen bank stretch
ing north of the Kruispoort
marks the line of the old city
wall, which was once dotted
with some 20 windmills. Today,
only four remain overlooking
the canal. The first, the Bonne
Chieremolen, was brought
here from a Flanders village 17th-century almshouses comprising the Volkskundemuseum
in 1911, but the second –
St Janshuismolen – is original Flanders. It occupies an which represented the interests
to the city, a restored structure attractive terrace of low, brick of a particular group of skilled
erected in 1770. The northern almshouses located behind an workmen. The guilds guarded
most mill of the four is De old neighbourhood café called their privileges jealously
Nieuwe Papegai, an old the “Zwarte Kat” (Black Cat), and, among many rules and
oil mill that was relocated which serves as the entrance. customs, marriage between
here in 1970. Each of the almshouses is children whose fathers were
dedicated to a different aspect in different guilds was greatly
of traditional Flemish life, with frowned upon. The guild
workshops displaying old tools. claimed the name St Sebastian
Several different crafts are after an early Christian martyr,
represented here, such as a whom the Roman Emperor
cobbler’s and a blacksmith’s, Diocletian had executed by his
through to a series of typical archers. The bowmen followed
historical domestic interiors. orders – medieval painters
often show Sebastian looking
P Schuttersgilde St like a pincushion – but
Sebastiaan miraculously, Sebastian’s
The massive Kruispoort, one of the four Carmersstraat 174. Map C2. Tel (050) wounds healed before he was
remaining medieval gates 33 1626. Open May–Sep: 10am–noon finished off by clubwielding
Tue–Thu, 2–5pm Sat; Oct–Apr: 2–5pm assassins. The guildhouse is
R English Convent Tue–Thu & Sat. & notable for its collection of
Carmersstraat 85. Map C2. Tel (050) 33 The Archers’ guild (the paintings of the guild’s leading
2424. Open 2–3:30pm & 4:30–5:30pm Schuttersgilde) was one of lights, gold and silver trinkets
Mon–Thu & Sat; Mass 8:30am Sun. the most powerful of the militia and guild emblems.
8 obligatory. guilds, and their 16th and
The English Convent was where 17thcentury redbrick guild E Museum Onze-Lieve-
many English Catholics sought house now houses a museum. Vrouw-ter-Potterie
asylum following the execution The commercial life of Potterierei 79. Map B1. Tel (050) 44
of Charles I in 1649, and during medieval Bruges was domi 8711. Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 1:30–
Oliver Cromwell’s subsequent nated by the guilds, each of 5pm Tue–Sun, Easter & Whit Mon. &
rule as Lord Protector. The Located by the canal in one
conventual buildings are not of the quietest parts of Bruges,
open to the public, but the the Museum Onze Lieve Vrouw
nuns provide a wellinformed ter Potterie (Our Lady of Pottery)
tour of their beautiful church, occupies part of an old hospital
built in the Baroque style in that was founded in 1276 to
the 1620s. The interior has a care for elderly women. There
delightful sense of space, its is a 14th and 15thcentury
elegant proportions enhanced cloister, and several of the
by its cupola, but the highlight sick rooms house a modest
is the altar, a grand affair made collection of paintings, the
of around 20 types of marble. best of which are some 17th
and 18thcentury portraits
E Volkskundemuseum of leading aristocrats. The
Balstraat 43. Map B2–C2. Tel (050) 44 hospital church is in excellent
8764. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun, condition, too; it is a warm,
Easter & Whit Mon. & intimate place with fine stained
The Volkskundemuseum is one The St Sebastiaan guildhouse, glass windows and a set of
of the best folk museums in now a museum impressive Baroque altarpieces.
A 90-Minute Walk Around Bruges

Almost all the most famous sights of Bruges are in the centre Spiegelrei
and to the southwest of the centre. But the commercial and On the right-hand side of
residential heart in Bruges’ medieval golden age was to the the Academiestraat stands the
Poortersloge 8 (Burghers’
north of the Markt. This is where a cosmopolitan collection of Lodge), a clubhouse for leading
European merchants had their grand national “lodges”, which citizens in medieval Bruges.
oversaw the trade that passed into the city along a network of Almost all the city’s grand
canals. Only small traces of this former glory remain, hidden buildings of that era had a
among a collection of waterways, bridges, and residential tower; this is a rare example
where the tower (rebuilt in
streets of exceptional tranquillity and charm.
1775) has survived. On the
other side of the street is
Louis Delacenserie the Oud Tolhuis 9, the Old
(1838-1909), the Customs House. It overlooked
architect responsible for a weighbridge where customs
much of the restoration charges were assessed; that
of medieval Bruges. On area has been replaced by the
the other side of the square, Jan van Eyckplein,
Markt, on the corner of named after the city’s great
St-Amandsstraat, is artist who is represented by
the Huis Bouchoute 3; a statue 0. The canal
the compass on the that once led to
façade, attached to a the city centre RE
I
EN
weathervane, was used now stops T I JN
S
by merchants to check GU
AU
the winds for the ships
p
bringing goods to
Bruges. Opposite it is
the Craenenburg 4 GRA
UW
-
(now a café), where
W
R
Archduke Maximilian
E
KE
RS
ST
of Austria was R.
8
2 The Provinciaal Hof housing the local imprisoned by the a
7
government offices Bruges’ authorities
VLAM
f s 6
in 1488. A walk
KU
A L D E N ST R .
d 5
INGST
IPE
Markt and Vlamingstraat up Vlamingstraat

S T-
RSSTRA AT
JAK
Like most of the old trading leads past the

R A AT
cities of Flanders, Bruges clusters Stadsschouwburg 5

O
NA
BS
around its old market square, (Municipal Theatre),

ST
R
A
A
T
the Markt (see p101). The 19th- a handsome Neo-
century statue in the centre Classical building h EIER-
AT
MARKT
RA
celebrates Pieter de Coninck and from 1868. At No. 2

ST
MUNT
Jan Breydel 1, the guildsmen 33 is the former 1
ER
PLEIN
MO
T MARKT
A
who led a revolt against their Genuese Loge R
A 3
AT
French overlords in Bruges in 6, the lodge of SSTRA
T
g AND
TS
M 4
O
T - A
N
S
N
1302. It culminated in victory at the Genoese

U
TV
M
A
H
N
LD
the Battle of the Golden Spurs traders, dating EL

G
ER
M
GE
ST
S
ST R.
(see p34), a key date in Flemish from 1399, which RA
A
nationalism. Goods came into now houses the Friet T
the square on a canal, and Musuem. No. 35 was the

were unloaded under the Huis Ter Beurze 7. The word Key
roof of the Waterhalle. “bourse” comes from the
Walk Route
The canal was filled in family Van de Beurse who
during the 1780s and now ran an inn here in the 15th
the site of the Waterhalle century, which became a between Spiegelrei and
has been taken by the meeting place for traders, Spinolarei. On the corner of
Provinciaal Hof 2, much like Lloyds’ coffee Spiegelrei and Genthof is
which is used for house in London gave its Roode Steen q; this was the
exhibitions and name to the insurance home of Georges Rodenbach,
receptions. This Neo- brokers who met the author of the controversial
Medieval building 1 Statue of Pieter de there in the novel Bruges-la-Morte (Bruges
was designed by Coninck and Jan Breydel 17th century. the Dead, 1892). Koningstraat,
BRUGES  109
off Spinolarei, leads to the

St Walburgakerk w, Bruges’
finest Baroque church, built for
the Jesuits in 1612–42.
Jeruzalemkerk
Back on Spinolarei, cross the
canal on Strooibrug. Straight
ahead is Blekersstraat, with Café
Vlissinghe e on the right. This is
reputedly Bruges’ oldest tavern,
dating from 1515. Heading
south down St-Annarei, the first
left leads to the St Annakerk r,
a pretty parish church from y A room at Bruges’ folk museum, the Volkskundemuseum
quarter. Cross the canal

i on the Vlamingbrug p. At
ROPE
R.
RI JK EP IJNAT
E. ZORGHESTR.
u SS
T Naaldenstraat 19 is Hof Bladelin
EI
ER
ST RA
a, a mansion built in about

I
ERDS
RM
L A N GE R E
P O T T ER I E R
CA
1450 by Pieter Bladelin; after
DE
EG
TR.
O. GISTELHOF
LW
RO 1469, it was owned by the
RS
G OU D E N H A N D S T R A A
T MERS
STR. Medici Bank of Florence. Hotel
CAR
JE
Lucca s, at Naaldenstraat 30, is
B A L S T R A AT
RU
G O UDE N - H A N
DREI R. y on the site of the trading house
o RS
ST ZA
LE
BL
EK
E
M
ST
of the merchants of the Italian
O
F e RA
AT city of Lucca. The alley off
TH
EN
t
Naaldenstraat called Boterhuis
ST
G
EI
-A
d passes beneath the arch

VE
LR
NN
GE
RV
IE
SP of the old Butter House and
AR
ER
EI r
AR
EI
dairy market, and leads to

SD
q OL
IJK
IN
9 SP St Jakobskerk f. This fine
KO
ENGE
RS
NI
0
Gothic church – with Baroque
w
NG
EE
LSE
NM
remodelling – contains art,

ST
LE
R.
ornate chapels, and tombs.

STR.
O
M
JAN
SSTRA
AT The route along Moerstraat
S T-
1497. The Jeruzalemkerk and Ontvangersstraat marks
ST JAN
PLEIN (see p106) t on Peperstraat is the bounds of the Prinsenhof,
very different, built in the the former palace of the Dukes
15th century and themed on of Burgundy, which is now the
pilgrimage sites in the Holy first and only five star hotel in
.
STOC
KSTR Land. On Balstraat is the Bruges g. Geldmuntstraat is
PHILIP 0 metres 100
Kantcentrum, the Lace Centre named after the old mint that
0 yards 100
2 (see p106). A row of almshouses, stood on the little square
also in Balstraat, is now the called Muntplein; it leads back
Museum voor Volkskunde to the Eiermarkt (Egg Market)
(see p107) y, a folk museum h and the Markt.
that paints a vivid picture of
life in old Bruges. The only
Tips for Walkers
domed church in Bruges
is in the English Convent Starting point: The Markt
(Engelsklooster) (see p107) u, on Length: 3.7 km (2.3 miles)
Carmersstraat. Head back west Getting there: The Markt is within
along Carmersstraat, cross the walking distance of almost all
canal on the Carmersbrug, and hotels in Bruges; bus routes from
turn right to reach St Gilliskerk all directions also go to this hub.
Stopping off points: There
i, an attractive church dating
are a multitude of cafés and
from the 13th–15th century. A
restaurants around the Markt, but
series of cobbled streets leads very few beyond Vlamingstraat.
to a picturesque section of canal A famous exception is the
at the Augustijnenbrug. The venerable old tavern called
street on the opposite side Cafe Vlissinghe in Blekersstraat
The Spinolarei canal, one of Bruges’ called Spaanse Loskaai o recalls (No. 13 on this walk).
principal waterways that this was once the Spanish
2 Street-by-Street: Ghent
As a tourist destination, the Flemish city of Ghent has long
been overshadowed by its neighbour, Bruges. In part this
reflects their divergent histories. The success of the cloth
trade during the Middle Ages was followed by a period of
stagnation for Bruges, while Ghent became a major indus
trial centre in the 18th and 19th centuries. The resulting
pollution coated the city’s antique buildings in layers of
grime from its many factories. In the 1980s, Ghent initiated
a restoration programme. The city’s medieval buildings
were cleaned, industrial sites were tidied up and the canals
. Het Gravensteen
were cleared. Today, it is the intricately carved stonework Ghent’s centre is dominated
of its churches and antique buildings, as well as the city’s by the thick stone walls and
excellent museums and stern, forbidding castle, that give imposing gatehouse of its ancient
the centre its character. Castle of the Counts.
. Design Museum
Ghent
This elegant I
19th-century dining LE
N
room is just one of many AA
KR
charming period rooms
in the decorative arts ST LE
ER N
museum. The collection T V E LEI
AA P
is housed in an TR
R GS
18th-century mansion BU G
and covers art and R
O
design from the 1600s E
N
to the present.
T
E
M
A
R
K
Graslei
T
One of Ghent’s
most picturesque
streets, the Graslei
overlooks the River Leie
on the site of the city’s GR ASBURG
medieval harbour. It is
lined with perfectly
preserved guildhouses;
some date from the
12th century.
KOR TE MUNT
To Ghent St-Pieters
and Stadsmuseum
Korenmarkt
Key
This busy square was once the
corn market; the commercial Suggested route
centre of the city since the
Middle Ages. Today, it is lined
with popular cafés.
GHENT  111
Huis van Alijn

A row of humble whitewashed
cottages house this excellent
folk museum. Exhibits here
* 250,000.
include everyday objects from
n Oude Vismijn, (09) 266 5660.
the late 19th century.
∑ visit.gent.be
Transport
£ St-Pieters. @ St-Pieters.
v Korenmarkt.
Stadhuis
Visitors can view this throne
room in the town hall, which
displays the 1780 coronation
throne of Joseph II.
G
A
D
IJ
R
T
V
K
R
T
A
N
M
U
M
E
G
N
K
LA
A
M
O E
N R
D S
ER T
R
ST A
RA A
T
AT
HO
OG
PO
OR
T
AT
A
TR
S
RT
FO
. St Baafskathedraal
BEL
Dating from the 1200s,

this magnificent
POEL JEMARK T
Gothic cathedral
was built
over several
hundred years.
KA
PI
T
TE
LS
TR
A AT
St Niklaaskerk
The Belfort is one of the

city’s great landmarks and,
together with the adjacent 0 metres 50
Lakenhalle (Cloth Hall), was 0 yards 50
a centre of medieval trade.
Exploring Ghent R St Baafskathedraal

Sint Baafsplein. Map F2. Tel (09) 269
Ghent was founded in the 9th century when Baldwin Iron-Arm, 2045. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan. &
first Count of Flanders, built a castle to protect two abbeys from Built in several stages,
Viking raids. Its historic centre developed during the 13th and St Baafskathedraal (St Bavo’s
Cathedral) has features
14th centuries, when the city prospered as a result of the cloth representing every phase
trade. Despite religious and dynastic conflicts, Ghent continued of Gothic style, from the
to flourish throughout the 16th and early 17th centuries. early chancel through to the
After 1648, the Dutch sealed the Scheldt estuary near Antwerp, later cavernous nave, which
closing vital canal links, which led to a decline in the fortunes is supported by slender
columns and is the cathedral’s
of both cities. The 19th-century boom in cotton spinning
architectural highlight. In a
reinvigorated Ghent and led to the building of wide boulevards small side chapel is one of
in the south of the city. Today, textiles still feature in Ghent’s Europe’s most remarkable
industry, while its university lends youthful vibrancy to city life. paintings, Jan van Eyck’s
Visitors staying for more than a day will find the CityCard Gent polyptych Adoration of the
an economical way of seeing the city’s excellent museums. Mystic Lamb (1432). St Bavo
(or Bavon) was Ghent’s
own 7th-century saint,
who abandoned the life of a
wealthy degenerate to become
a missionary in France and
Flanders and then a hermit. He
was buried in about AD 653.
P Stadhuis
Botermarkt 1. Map F2. Tel (09) 266
7170. & 8 May–Oct: 3pm Mon–
Thu. Tours depart 2:30pm from the
Tourist Office.
Tiled flooring forms a maze in the Pacification Hall in Ghent’s Stadhuis The Stadhuis façade displays
two different architectural styles.
Getting Around trams travel to the centre Overlooking Hoogstraat, the
Ghent is a large city with an every few minutes. However, older half dates from the early
excellent bus and tram system. many of Ghent’s main sights 16th century, its tracery in the
The main rail station, Ghent are within walking distance elaborate Flamboyant Gothic
St-Pieters, adjoins the bus of each other. Canal boat trips style. The plainer, newer part,
station from where several are also available. which flanks the Botermarkt, is
The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb great early Flemish artists, Jan van
Eyck, and his lesser-known
brother, Hubrecht.
Completed in 1432, it is not
only exquisitely painted; it is also
an expression of the deepest
beliefs of Christianity – that human
salvation lies in the sacrifice of
Christ, the Lamb of God. What
you see today is almost entirely
original; only the lower left panel
is a modern copy, following its
theft in 1934. This is a remarkable
achievement, given the painting’s
history. It was rescued from
Protestant church-wreckers in
1566 and from fire in 1822; parts of
it were removed by French soldiers
The 12 panels of the painting, with the main image at the centre in 1794, and other parts were sold
in 1816. Audioguides to the
In a side-chapel of Sint Baafskathedraal, in the centre of Ghent, is one of painting (included in the price
the greatest cultural treasures of northern Europe. The Adoration of the of the entry ticket) explain the
Mystic Lamb is a monumental, multi-panelled painting by the first of the significance of the 12 panels.
GHENT  113
a characteristic example of its pure architectural forms, with

post-Reformation architecture. soaring columns brightly lit by
The statues in the niches on the high windows. The space is
façade were added in the 1890s. punctuated by a massive and
Among this group of figures it extravagantly Baroque altar
is possible to spot the original screen, a clarion call to the
architect, Rombout Keldermans, Counter-Reformation; unusually
who is shown studying his plans. for such latter-day alterations, it
The building is still the city’s harmonizes with the rest of the
administrative centre. Guided church to exhilarating effect.
tours pass through a series of
rooms, the most fascinating of P Graslei and Korenlei
which is the Pacification Hall. This Map E2.
was once the Court of Justice These are two embankments
and the site of the signing of that face each other across the
the Pacification of Ghent (a Tusschen Brugghen, once
treaty between Catholics and Ghent’s main medieval harbour. Graslei and 16th-century guildhouses along
Protestants against Hapsburg The Graslei, on the eastern the River Leie
rule) in 1576. side, possesses a fine set of
guildhouses. Among them, at E Design Museum Ghent
P Belfort No. 14, the sandstone façade of Jan Breydelstraat 5. Map E1. Tel (09)
Sint Baafsplein. Map F2. Tel (09) 233 the Guildhouse of the Free 267 9999. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
3954. Open 10am–6pm daily. Closed Boatmen is decorated with finely Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. &
1 Jan, 25, 26 & 31 Dec. & 8 in Dutch detailed nautical scenes, while ∑ designmuseumgent.be
and English at 3:30pm. the Corn Measurers’ guildhouse This decorative arts museum
Ghent’s belfry, a prominent next door is adorned has a large collection
landmark rising 91 m (299 ft) to by bunches of fruit contained within
the gilded-copper dragon on and cartouches. an elegant
the tip of its spire, is situated The earliest 18th-century
between the cathedral and the building here is town house.
town hall. A lift to its parapet at the 12th-century The displays are
65 m (213 ft) offers magnificent Spijker (Staple arranged in two
views over the city. Originally House) at No. 10. sections, begin-
built in 1313, the Belfort was This simple Sofa at Design Museum ning at the front
restored in the 19th and 20th Romanesque structure with a series of lavishly
centuries. Its bells today include a stored the city’s grain supply for furnished period rooms that
54-bell carillon, which plays tunes hundreds of years until a fire feature textiles, furniture and
to accompany the clock chimes destroyed its interior. The artifacts from the 17th to the
every 15 minutes, and for gabled buildings of the Korenlei, 19th centuries. At the back, a
keyboard concerts every Sunday facing the Graslei across the modern extension to the
around noon and evenings on water, date from later centuries, building focuses on modern
the first Friday of the month. but gracefully complement the design from Art Nouveau to
Below the Belfort is the Graslei. The views from the St contemporary works, and
Lakenhalle (Cloth Hall), a fine Michielsbrug, the bridge at the includes furniture by Victor
Flemish-Gothic building from southern end, are among the Horta (see p84), Marcel Breuer
1425, where the city’s cloth-trade most beautiful in Ghent. and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.
was carried out (guided tours
only, on request). The building
also incorporates a small prison.
R St Niklaaskerk
Cataloniëstraat. Map E2. Open daily.
This merchants’ church, built in
the 13th–15th centuries, was
dedicated to their patron saint,
St Nicholas, Bishop of Myra (and
Santa Claus). The church is a fine
example of the distinctive and
austere style called Scheldt
Gothic. The interior was once
packed full of guild shrines and
chapels, until Protestant church-
wreckers destroyed them in
1566; today it is remarkable for The view over Ghent from the Belfort belltower
P Groot Vleeshuis walls of Het Gravensteen (or

Groentenmarkt 7. Map E1. the Castle of the Counts)
Tel (09) 223 23 24. Open 10am–6pm eloquently recall the unsettled
Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. = 0 and violent context of Ghent’s
∑ grootvleeshuis.be early medieval past. Parts of
The “Great Meat Hall” was built the castle date back to the
in 1407–19, and its long, low late 1100s, but most are later
interior space still reflects its additions. Up to the 14th
basic, original purpose as a century, the castle was Ghent’s
covered butchers’ market, main military stronghold, and
complete with ancient beams from then until the late 1700s, it
and wonky flooring. Into this was used as the city’s jail. Later,
space a large, modern glass box it became a cotton mill.
has been ingeniously inserted From the gatehouse, a long
to serve as a centre to promote and heavily fortified tunnel
East Flemish food: on the one leads up to the courtyard,
side, a small restaurant serves which is overseen by two large
good-value Flemish dishes; on buildings, the count’s medieval
the other is a delicatessen. residence and the earlier keep. Het Gravensteen, a classic medieval castle
Arrows guide visitors round the complete with turrets and torture instruments
interior of both buildings. In the
upper rooms there is a spine- pretty group of whitewashed
chilling collection of medieval almshouses, “The House of
torture instruments. Alijn”, surrounding a grassy
courtyard. Although mainly
E Huis van Alijn 16th-century, the almshouses
Kraanlei 65. Map E1. Tel (09) 235 3800. were originally founded in 1363
Open 11am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am– as a children’s hospital – not out
5:30pm Sun. Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 25 of philanthropy, but as an act of
Dec. & = ∑huisvanalijn.be penance by the Rijm family for
The original covered butchers’ market This is one of Belgium’s best the murder of two members of
of the Groot Vleeshuis folk museums, graphically the rival Alijn family.
evoking daily life in the past
P Dulle Griet through a huge collection of P The Patershol
Groot Kanonplein (off Vrijdagmarkt). fascinating artifacts – dolls Map E1.
Map F1. and other toys, games, clothes, North of the Kraanlei are the
This giant cannon, furniture, kitchenware, funerary quaint little lanes and low
sitting on the mementoes, as well brick houses of the Patershol,
embankment of as complete shops a district that developed in
the River Leie, is and craftsmen’s the 17th century to house
famous in the folk- workshops. There the city’s weavers. This once
lore of Ghent. Cast in is also a puppet down-at-heel area underwent
about 1450, 5 m (16 ft The Dulle Griet cannon theatre, which extensive refurbishment in
5 in) long and weighing 16 presents the 1980s and is now one of
tonnes, it could fire stone cannon- plays (in Dutch) throughout the trendiest parts of town,
balls the size of a beachball. It was the year. The museum is set out with upmarket restaurants,
brought to Ghent in 1578, during in a sequence of rooms in a cafés and shops.
a period of conflict with Spain.
Dulle Griet means “Mad Meg”, a
legendary medieval character
who embodied mad, violent
frenzy and disorder. It is painted
in its original red, reflecting its
other nickname “Groten Rooden
Duyvele” (Great Red Devil).
+ Het Gravensteen
Sint-Veerleplein. Map E1. Tel (09) 225
9306. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. &
∑gravensteen.stad.gent
Once the seat of the counts
of Flanders, the imposing stone The Patershol’s 17th-century buildings which now house shops and cafés
GHENT  115
P Vlaamse Opera
Schouwburgstraat 3. Map E3. Tel (09)
268 1011. Open for performances;
guided tours third Saturday of the
month. & ∑ operaballet.be
This classic opera house was
built in 1837–40; it has been
restored to reclaim its reputation
as one of the most spectacular
theatres in Europe, with an
auditorium and adjoining
salons encrusted with gilding,
chandeliers and sculptural
decorations. The resident
company is the much-respected
Vlaamse Opera (Flemish Opera), The grand, Neo-Classical façade of the Museum voor Schone Kunsten
which formed when the opera
companies of Ghent and enclose a small park and E Stedelijk Museum voor
Antwerp merged. Baroque church, creating a Actuele Kunst (SMAK)
tranquil refuge. This Begijnhof Jan Hoetplein 1. Map E5. Tel (09) 240
was founded as a community 7601. Open 10am–6pm, Tue–Sun.
of single women in about 1235. Closed Mon. & = 0 ∑ smak.be
It has been occupied ever SMAK is one of Europe’s most
since, but the residents today dynamic modern art galleries, a
are no longer béguines. force in the art world that has
helped to bring the spotlight to
E STAM the Belgian art scene. Its exten-
Bijlokesite, Godshuizenlaan 2. sive and challenging permanent
Map E4. Tel (09) 267 1400. Open collection includes work by
9am–5pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri; artists such as Bacon, Beuys,
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Wed, Broodthaers, Long, Muñoz,
1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. 7 & Nauman, Panamarenko, Tuymans
0∑stamgent.be
and Warhol, while temporary
The stunning interior of the Vlaamse Located on a site that brings exhibitions feature international
Opera building together a 14th-century artists at the cutting edge of con-
Gothic abbey, a 17th-century temporary art. The airy and attrac-
P Klein Begijnhof monastery and the latest in tive building dates from 1949 but
Lange Violettestraat 205. 21st-century architecture, was remodelled in the 1990s.
Open 6:30am–10pm daily. STAM is Ghent’s excellent
The Klein Begijnhof (Small city museum. It provides an E Museum voor
Béguinage) is the prettiest of introduction to the city’s history Schone Kunsten
Ghent’s three béguinages and cultural heritage, tracing its Fernand Scribedreef, Citadelpark. Map
(see p57). Rows of step-gabled, evolution to the present day. F5. Tel (09) 240 0700. Open 10am–6pm
whitewashed houses – most Don’t miss the towers of Ghent Tue–Sun. & ∑ mskgent.be
dating from the 17th century – built with LEGO. Ghent’s largest collection of
fine art is displayed in this
Neo-Classical building. Inside,
a rotunda divides the works,
with the older exhibits in a
series of rooms on the right
and 19th- and 20th-century art
to the left. Medieval paintings
include the Bearing of the Cross
by Hieronymus Bosch (1450–
1516). There are also works by
Rubens (see p21), Anthony van
Dyck (1599–1641) and Jacob
Jordaens (1593–1678).
Visitors planning to also visit
the Royal Museum of Fine Arts
in Antwerp and the Groeninge
Museum in Bruges should
invest in the Flemish Art
A small garden surrounded by step-gabled houses in the Klein Begijnhof Collection combiticket.
3 Antwerp
Antwerp is Belgium’s second city and the largest city in
Flanders, and it has one of Europe’s busiest ports (its docks
situated well to the north of the centre). Beginning as a
settlement on the banks of the River Scheldt in the 2nd
century, Antwerp became part of the Duchy of Brabant in
1106, and its main port. Within 200 years it was a thriving
hub of the European cloth industry. But its golden age
came during the era of Spanish rule (see p35), when it was
illuminated by the artistic genius of its most famous son,
Pieter Paul Rubens (1577–1640). Today, mirroring this Carvings above the cathedral door
vigorous mercantile and cultural past, Antwerp has undergone depicting the Last Judgement
a spirited regeneration, seen in its widespread programme
Red Star MAS
of rebuilding and renovation, and in its reputation as a key Line Museum FA L C O N R
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on Centraal Station, where most . voor Schone
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visitors arrive. Fast and frequent SE
IT
BR
trams and buses travel from here
to the centre. Most of the city’s
main sights are within walking
distance of the Grote Markt.
P Grote Markt
Grote Markt. Tel (03) 232 0103
(tourist office). 7
Antwerp’s central square, or
Grote Markt, is flanked by the
ornately gabled Stadhuis (town
hall), which was completed in
1564 by the architect and
sculptor Cornelis Floris. The
square’s north side has a series
of guildhouses, each of which is
decorated with gilded figures.
The tallest of these is the House Fresco paintings of the Dukes of Brabant in the Stadhuis, Grote Markt
ANTWERP  117
R Onze Lieve Vrouwe E Antwerp Canals VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Kathedraal Ruihuis, Suikerrui 21. Tel (03) 344 0755.
Groenplaats 21 or Handschoenmarkt. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Practical Information
Tel (03) 213 9951. Open 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon. & 8 11am, * 500,000. n Centraal Station
Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat, 1–4pm Sun. 1pm, 3pm. ∑ deruien.be & Grote Markt 13, (03) 232 0103.
& 7 ∑ dekathedraal.be The Antwerp canals, or ruien, Transport
The building of Antwerp’s Onze form the subterranean belly of ~ 6 km (3 miles) E of the city.
Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal (Cathedral the city and reveal a part of its £ Centraal, Pelikaanstraat.
of Our Lady) took almost two cen- history. It’s possible to take a @ Franklin Rooseveltplaats.
turies, from 1352 to 1521. This mag- 15-minute boat ride through 4 Steenplein.
nificent structure has a graceful the tunnels or, for the more
tiered spire that rises 123 m (404 ft) adventurous, a 90-minute walk
above the winding streets of the with an interactive tablet. You Maritime and Folklore Museums
medieval city centre. Inside, the can also join a 2-hour guided along with some of the
impression of light and space owes walk, during which you can ask Vleeshuis’s collection. A broad
much to its seven-aisled nave and the guide questions. There is also range of objects on display cover
vaulted ceiling. The collection of an exhibition on the history of everything from paintings and
paintings and sculpture the ruien. Protective suits and silverware to wood carvings,
includes three works by boots are provided (women are archaeological finds, folk art,
Rubens, of which two are advised not to wear skirts). maritime artifacts and model
triptychs – the Raising of ships. These pieces span the
VE
KE
the Cross (1610) and P Vleeshuis prehistoric era through to the

ST
.
RA
P R I NSST R. P
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the Descent from present day. The museum also
AT
NH
OB
OK
Vleeshouwersstraat 38–40. Tel (03)
R. EN
STR
. the Cross (1612). 292 6100. Open 10am–5pm Thu–Sun, features a cultural events space,
rk Sint Easter Mon. Closed Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, 1
Jacobskerk and it will display highlights from
ST JA
CO BS M
AR
May, Ascension, 1 & 2 Nov, 25 & 26 Dec. the Koninklijk Museum voor
KT
NIEUW
E S T R A AT
FRANKLIN
ROOSEVELT
& Schone Kunsten while it is closed
GEM
R.
PLAATS ENT Astrid

There has been a EST
for refurbishment until 2017.
EIK EN ST
De Vlaamse R.
Bus Station CA
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MEIR
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Vleeshuis (Meat Hall)
S TA
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on this site since
Rubenshuis L
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1250, but the
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was completed in
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by architect
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towers with five hexagonal

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turrets and rising gables, all built

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EI
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VA N
EYC Antwerp Airport brick – giving the building a Imposing exterior of Antwerp’s
KLE 6 km (3.5 miles)
I streaky bacon-like appearance. Sint Pauluskerk
The fine Gothic interior has
Sights at a Glance been renovated to create a R Sint-Pauluskerk
1 Grote Markt museum called “Sounds of the St-Paulusstraat 22 or Veemarkt 14.
2 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal City”, presenting 600 years of Tel (03) 232 3267. Open Apr–Oct:
3 Antwerp Canals Antwerp’s musical life. 2–5pm daily. 8 3pm Sun & pub hols.
4 Vleeshuis Completed in the early 17th
E Museum Aan De Stroom century, this splendid church is
5 Museum Aan De Stroom
6 Sint-Pauluskerk
(MAS) distinguished by its combination
Hanzestedenplaats. Tel (03) 338 4400. of both Gothic and Baroque
7 ModeMuseum (MoMu)
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am– features. The exterior dates from
8 Museum Plantin-Moretus
6pm Sat & Sun (10am–5pm in winter). about 1571, and has an added
9 Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension, 1 elaborate Baroque gateway. The
0 Rockoxhuis Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 8 ∑ mas.be interior is noted for its intricately
q Sint Jacobskerk
Located in the old docks area carved wooden choir stalls. St
w Rubenshuis just north of the historical Paulus also possesses a series of
e Museum Mayer van den Bergh centre is Antwerp’s most inno- paintings illustrating the Fifteen
r Koninklijk Museum voor vative project, the Museum Aan Mysteries of the Rosary, one of
Schone Kunsten De Stroom (MAS), meaning which, The Scourging of the Pillar,
t MHKA Museum on the River. This is an exquisite canvas by Rubens.
y FotoMuseum museum combines the best of There are also paintings by van
u Red Star Line Museum the collections from the former Dyck and Jordaens.
Street-by-Street: Around Grote Markt

IN
E
Fanning out from the east bank of the River Scheldt, Antwerp was P
L
and is one of the leading trading cities of northern Europe. Today, N
E
E
the city’s industries lie away from its medieval core, whose narrow S
T
streets and fine buildings cluster around the cathedral and
the Grote Markt. Packed with evidence of Antwerp’s rich
history, this is a delightful area to wander in. Most sites
of interest are within easy walking distance of the
I
A
Grote Markt, whose surrounding streets house
A
K
museums, shops, and exuberant cafés and bars.
S
N
E
A
D
R
O
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U
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To Koninklijk Museum voor

Schone kunsten S
U
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The Vleeshuis R
R
U
Occupied by the Butcher’s I
Guild for three centuries, this
beautiful 1504 building has
striking layers of brick and
stone that look like alternating
strips of fat and lean meat.
OU
DE
KO
OR
NMAR
K T
Stadhuis
Flanking Antwerp’s spectacular central square is the
elegant 16th-century Stadhuis (town hall), designed
by Cornelis Floris (1514–75).
The Brabo Fountain

This statue, in the centre of
Key the Grote Markt, depicts the
fearless soldier, Silvius Brabo.
Suggested route
Said to be the nephew of
Julius Caesar, Brabo is shown
0 metres 50
throwing the hand of the
mythical giant, Antigonius,
0 yards 50 into the River Scheldt.
ANTWERP  119
Sint-Pauluskerk
This imposing church was built in
1571, but has a magnificent
Baroque gate and spire
dating from the late
17th century. Inside,
there is a noted
collection of
paintings,
including one
especially fine
work by Rubens.
To Centraal Station
Z
IR
K . Grote Markt
S
T
R
Antwerp’s golden
A age of trade in the
A
T 16th century is
reflected in the
square’s cosmopolitan
V
E
1564 town hall, built

R
S
by architects from all

M
ID
over Europe.
S
T
R
A
A
T
. Onze-Lieve-Vrouwe Kathedraal
The largest Gothic cathedral in Belgium,
this building occupies a 1-ha (2.5-acre)-
site in Antwerp’s centre. Work began on
this elegant church in 1352 and took
almost two centuries to complete.
To Rubenshuis
Groenplaats
The Groenplaats or Green Square
is a pleasant open space with
trees. Lined with cafés, bars and
restaurants, the square is a popular
spot with both locals and visitors
for a peaceful stroll or meal.
Exploring Antwerp
Antwerp stretches out from its centre into its sprawling suburbs
to a distance of some 7 km (4.3 miles). Badly damaged in
both World Wars, the city has a broad mixture of architecture,
ranging from the medieval to the ultra-modern. The old
city centre is concentrated around the cathedral, Onze Lieve
Vrouwe Kathedraal, and the Grote Markt (see pp98–9).
The area around the Centraal Station is the centre of the
international diamond trade. The docks of the Zuid (South)
district have been drained, transforming into one of the most
vibrant parts of town, and the old dockland architecture of
the Waalse Kaai and Vlaamse Kaai has become home to clubs, Printing press in the Museum
bars and museums. Rapid development is also taking place Plantin-Moretus/Prentenkabinet
around the old, water-filled docks to the north of the city
centre. To the east of the cathedral – beyond Antwerp’s moved here in 1576. The
house’s ancient rooms and
pioneering 1930s skyscraper, the Boerentoren –
narrow corridors resemble the
lies the Meir, Antwerp’s premier shopping street. types of interiors painted by
Flemish and Dutch masters.
Six in the 1980s, the city has The museum is devoted to
entered the stratosphere of the early years of printing,
international haute-couture, when Plantin and others began
and maintains a glowing to produce books that bore
reputation for nurturing new no resemblance to earlier,
talent. This fashion museum illuminated manuscripts.
provides the historical context Antwerp was a centre for
to Antwerp’s rise. Fashion items printing in the 15th and 16th
and accessories are shown in centuries, and Plantin was its
innovative ways in changing most successful printer. Today,
exhibitions, to serve as both his workshop displays several
an instructive resource and a historic printing presses, as
fount of inspiration. well as woodcuts and copper
plates. Plantin’s library is also
E Museum Plantin-Moretus/ on show. One of the gems
One of the changing exhibits at the Pretenkabinet here is an edition of the
ModeMuseum Vrijdagmarkt 22–23. Tel (03) 221 1450. Gutenberg Bible – the first
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun, Easter Mon. book to be printed using
E ModeMuseum (MoMu) Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension, 1 Nov, moveable type, a new tech-
Nationalestraat 28. Tel (03) 470 27 70. 25 Dec. & free last Wed of month. nique invented by Johannes
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; ∑ museumplantinmoretus.be Gutenberg in 1455.
10am–9pm first Sun of every month. This fascinating museum on
Closed Mon. & ∑momu.be the UNESCO World Heritage List R Sint-Carolus
Following the rise to celebrity occupies a large 16th-century Borromeuskerk
of the influential fashion house that belonged to the Hendrik Conscienceplein. Tel (03) 231
designers called the Antwerp printer Christopher Plantin, who 3751. Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–5pm
Mon–Sat.
This Jesuit church is celebrated
for its elegant Baroque façade,
which forms one flank of
a charming 17th-century
square. Rubens played a part
in the design of both the
exterior and interior when the
church was built in 1615–21,
and supplied 39 ceiling
paintings, but sadly these
were lost in a fire in 1718. The
surviving parts of the interior
indicate how lavish it once was
– a triumphant showpiece of
The Baroque interior of Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk the Counter-Reformation.
ANTWERP  121
P Rockoxhuis P Rubenshuis
Keizerstraat 12. Tel (03) 201 9250. See pp124–5.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed
Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, Ascension, 1 & 2 Nov, E Museum Mayer van
25 & 26 Dec. & ∑ rockoxhuis.be den Bergh
Nicolaas Rockox (1560–1640) Lange Gasthuisstraat 19. Tel (03) 338
was mayor of Antwerp, a 8188. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun,
humanist, philanthropist, and Easter Mon. Closed Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, 1
a friend and patron of Rubens. May, Ascension, 1 Nov, 24 & 25 Dec.
These attributes are reflected in & ∑ museummayervan
his beautifully renovated home denbergh.be
– a series of rooms set around a Fritz Mayer van den Bergh
formal courtyard garden. They (1858–1901) was the scion of A room at the Museum Mayer van den Bergh
contain a fine collection of a wealthy trading family, but
contemporary furniture and instead of following in his huge, sculptural building that
miscellaneous artifacts, all father’s footsteps, he chose was once a 1920s dockside
interesting and well to devote himself to grain silo and warehouse has
chosen. The paintings collecting art and curios. been transformed into a series
and drawings After his death aged just of unusual spaces to display
include work by 43, his mother created this art from the front line of
Rubens, Jordaens museum to display his international contemporary art
and Van Dyck, as well collections. Among (1970–present). This includes
as work by Frans the many treasures work by many of the artists who
Snyders (1579–1657), are tapestries, have helped to place Belgium at
who lived next door, furniture, ivories, the forefront of the art scene,
was much admired stained glass, medie such as Panamarenko, Luc
by Rubens, and Detail from Fishmarket val and Renaissance Tuymans, Jan Fabre and
painted flowers and Antwerp, by Frans sculpture and a Wim Delvoye.
fruit in Rubens’ work. Snyders, at the Rockoxhuis number of excellent
paintings, including E FotoMuseum
R Sint Jacobskerk Dulle Griet (Mad Meg), a power Waalsekaai 47. Tel (03) 242 9300.
Lange Nieuwstraat 73–75, Eikenstraat. ful image of a chaotic world by Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Tel (03) 225 0414. Open Apr–Oct: Pieter Brueghel the Elder. Closed Mon, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan.
2–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–noon, & =∑fotomuseum.be
Mon–Sat. & E Koninklijk Museum voor Antwerp’s excellent museum
Noted as Rubens’ burial place – Schone Kunsten of photography, displaying a
his tomb is in his family’s chapel See pp122–3. wide range of historical artifacts
behind the high altar – this sand and images, has undergone a
stone church was built from E Museum van complete makeover, and has
1491 to 1656. Sint Jacobskerk’s Hedendaagse Kunst embraced the moving image
rich interior contains the Antwerpen (M HKA) as well by incorporating the
tombs of several other notable Leuvenstraat 32. Tel (03) 260 9999. Antwerp Film Museum (which
Antwerp families, as well as Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm offers scheduled film viewings).
a collection of 17thcentury Thu). Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, In addition to its extensive,
art, including sculptures by Ascension & 25 Dec. 0 = thematically organized
Hendrik Verbruggen, and ∑ muhka.be permanent collection, the
paintings by van Dyck, Otto This museum is what you might museum mounts regular
Venius (Rubens’ first master) expect from a city famed for its exhibitions of photography.
and Jacob Jordaens. sense of style and design. A
E Red Star Line Museum
Montevideostraat 3. Tel (03) 298
2770. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension
Day, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. 7 &
∑ redstarline.be
Located in the old Red Star
Line terminal in the port area
of the city, this fascinating
museum tells the story of
Antwerp’s historic shipping
company, and the over two
million people it took to a new
life in North America from the
A stained-glass window in Sint Jacobskerk late 19th century up to 1934.
Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten

Antwerp’s largest and most impressive fine art collection is
exhibited in the Museum voor Schone Kunsten, which occupies First Floor
a massive late 19th-century Neo-Classical building. The
permanent collection contains both ancient and modern
works. The earlier collection contains medieval Flemish painting
and continues through the 19th century, with the “Antwerp
Trio” of Rubens, van Dyck and Jordaens well represented.
Modern exhibits include the work of Belgian artists Magritte,
Ensor and Delvaux, as well as a major collection of work by Rik
Wouters. Tissot and van Gogh are among the foreign artists
on show. The museum is currently closed for renovations
scheduled to extend into 2019, however, collection
highlights can be found at the Cathedral of Our Lady and
the Museum Aan De Stroom, MAS (see p117).
Façade of Gallery
Building began on this
imposing structure in
Main entrance
1884. The Neo-Classical
façade with its vast
pillars has carved
women charioteers
atop each side. It was
opened in 1890.
. Woman Ironing (1912)

This peaceful domestic scene by Rik Wouters
employs the muted colours of Impressionism.
This was a productive period for Wouters who
painted 60 canvases in 1912.
Madame Récamier (1967) Pink Bows (1936)

René Magritte’s macabre version of the Paul Delvaux’s dream-like style clearly shows the
original painting by David is a classic influence of Sigmund Freud’s psychoanalytic
Surrealist work. theories on Surrealist painting.
ANTWERP  123
. Saint Barbara (1437) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Jan van Eyck’s painting of Saint Barbara
in several tones of grey shows the saint
sitting in front of a huge Gothic
Leopold de Waelplaats 1–9.
cathedral tower still under
Tel (03) 238 7809.
construction, while a prayer book
Closed for renovation until 2019;
lies open on her lap.
see website for updates. & 7
= - 9 ∑ kmska.be/en
Transport
@ 1, 23, 290. v 4, 8, 12, 24.
Gallery Guide
The gallery is divided into two
floors. Flemish Old Masters and
19th-century painters are
housed on the first floor, while
the ground floor focuses on
James Ensor and the 20th
century. Each room is lettered
and visitors may view exhibits
chronologically, starting in the
entrance hall.
. Adoration of the Magi

(1624)
One of Rubens’ masterpieces,
this painting displays a
remarkable freedom
of composition.
Ground floor
As the Old Sang, the Young
Play Pipes (1638)
Jacob Jordaens’ (1593–1678)
Key joyous celebration of life in this
15th-century paintings 19th-century salon painting of a family enjoying a
musical evening contrasts with
16th-century paintings 20th-century paintings
his religious paintings.
16th–18th-century sketches Temporary exhibitions
17th-century paintings Museum history
19th-century sculpture Non-exhibition space
19th-century paintings
Rubenshuis
Rubenshuis, on Wapper Square, was Pieter Paul Rubens’
home and studio for the last 29 years of his life, from 1611
to 1640. The city bought the premises just before World
War II, but by then the house was little more than a ruin,
and what can be seen today is the result of careful
restoration. It is divided into two sections. To the left of
the entrance are the narrow rooms of the artist’s living
quarters, equipped with period furniture. Behind this
part of the house is the kunstkamer, or art gallery, where Façade of Rubenshuis
Rubens exhibited both his own and other artists’ work, The older Flemish part of the house
sits next to the later house, whose
and entertained his friends and wealthy patrons, such as elegant early Baroque façade was
the Archduke Albert and the Infanta Isabella. To the right designed by Rubens.
of the entrance lies the main studio, a spacious salon
where Rubens worked on and displayed his paintings.
A signposted route guides visitors through the house.
Formal Gardens
The small garden is laid out formally and
its charming pavilion dates from Rubens’
time. He was influenced by architects of
the Italian Renaissance when he built
the Italian Baroque addition to his house
in the 1620s.
KEY
1 The Familiakamer, or family

sitting room, is cosy and has a pretty
. Rubens’ Studio tiled floor. It overlooks Wapper
It is estimated that Rubens produced some 2,500 paintings Square.
in this large, high-ceilinged room. In the Renaissance
manner, Rubens designed the work which was usually 2 Chequered mosaic tiled floor.
completed by a team of other artists employed in his studio.
ANTWERP  125
Bedroom
The Rubens family lived in the
Flemish section of the house,
with its small rooms and narrow
Wapper 9–11.
passages. The portrait by the bed
Map L2. Tel (03) 201 1555.
is said to be of Rubens’ second
Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun,
wife, Helena Fourment.
Easter Mon, Whit Mon.
Closed 1 & 2 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov,
25 & 26 Dec, Ascension Day.
& (free last Wed of month).
Transport
@ 22, 25, 26. v 7, 8, 9, 11, 12.
Dining Room
Intricately fashioned leather
panels line the walls of this room,
which also displays a noted work
by Frans Snyders.
. Kunstkamer
This art gallery contains a series
of painted sketches by Rubens.
At the far end is a semi-circular
dome, modelled on Rome’s
Pantheon, displaying a number
of marble busts.
Baroque Portico
One of the few remaining original
features, this portico was designed
by Rubens, and links the older
house with the Baroque section. It
is adorned with a frieze showing
scenes from Greek mythology.
A 90-Minute Walk Across Antwerp

Antwerp handles 80 per cent of the world’s entire trade
in rough diamonds. This walk starts at an architectural
jewel in the otherwise rather unglamorous diamond district,
the impressive Centraal railway station, and heads west to
the Meir, Antwerp’s main shopping thoroughfare, before
visiting the haunts of Rubens and his contemporaries at
the Rubenshuis, Sint Jacobskerk and the Rockoxhuis. It then
passes through medieval Antwerp to reach the broad
sweep of the River Scheldt.
Diamond District and Rubenshuis and Rockoxhuis

the Meir Turn left off the Meir into the 2 The bar area in the impressive Radisson
Centraal Station 1 is a palatial broad street called the Wapper Blu Astrid Hotel
Neo-Classical building com- 7. On the left-hand
pleted in 1905 that is worth side of the street is
L . K O E P O O RT S T R .
AI
visiting in its own right. It looks the Rubenshuis
KA
out over Koningin Astridplein, (see pp124–

NS
K EI ZE
R ST R
AE
A AT
named after the hugely popular 5) 8,
RD
w
Queen Astrid (wife of Leopold III o
JO
GROTE
and grandmother of the present HAA
R ST MARKT u r
t e
AI
RA
AT
King Philippe I) who died
KA
i
t
ld
CK
tragically in a car accident, aged VLAS y

he
MA
DIJ
S T KATE LI J N E VEST
RK LANG
E NIE
OU MA
29, in 1935. Behind the station,

Sc
T Groenplaats UWE
ZAND
AN
DE RKT
Antwerp Zoo 2 is one of the E IER

E.V
KOORN-
d STO p GROEN- M
A
oldest in the world, and its OFS
TR.
a
PLAATS
RK
impressive entrance dates from
1843, the year the zoo opened. T
STE
s 0
Meir
MEIR
On the far side of the square is EN
HO
VRIJDAG
MARKT
R.
HUIDEVETTERSS TR.
ER
ST
UW
K.G
EV
ER SV
the Radisson Blu
G
E S T LO M
IE
O
BAR
W
D EN
AST
AU VES
Astrid Hotel 3, a T
KAM
GU
ST
HU
IJN
bold example of EN
ME
ST JODENSTRAAT
ISS
RA
NST
AT
post-modern
TRA
RA
architecture. For a the impressive

AT
KOMEDIE
AT
PLEIN
flavour of Antwerp’s mansion that
connection with Rubens bought to the Meir, look left – the tallest
diamonds, go to the as his home and building is the KBC Tower 0.
diamond district. 3 Zebras at the studio in 1610. Complete with Art Deco
You can get a feel for Antwerp Zoo At the end of the detailing, it was Europe’s highest
this distinctively Wapper, at Hopland skyscraper when topped out in
Jewish neighbourhood 2, is the Grand Café Horta 9, 1931. By walking up Lange
by walking down Pelikaanstraat a dynamic café-restaurant Klarenstraat, you can reach the
4 and Vestingstraat 5. By built in 2000 around structural Sint Jacobskerk (see p121) q on
continuing along De Keyserlei remnants salvaged from Victor Lange Nieuwstraat. This richly
and Leysstraat, you enter the Meir Horta’s classic Art Nouveau decorated church is famous
6, a broad, pedestrianized high building, the Maison du Peuple, as the burial place of Rubens.
street packed with large shops. in Brussels (see p82). Returning St-Jacobsstraat and Keizerstraat
lead to the Rockoxhuis (see
p121) w, which offers an insight
into how the homes of the rich
looked in the time of Rubens.
Wijngaardstraat will bring
you to the little square called
Hendrik Conscienceplein e,
named after the Flemish author
who wrote the novel The Lion
of Flanders (1838), a stirring tale
about the Battle of the Golden
Spurs of 1302; the book was a
landmark in the resurgence of
w One of the rooms inside the Rockoxhuis Flemish national pride.
ANTWERP  127
Overlooking the square is the

fine Baroque façade of the
Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk
(see p120) r.
The Cathedral and

the Scheldt
Continue along Wijngaardstraat
to reach Lijnwaadmarkt (Linen
Market) t. The street names
here recall the specialist
markets that once clustered
around the cathedral. Note
how buildings have been
constructed right up against o The Grote Markt and its elegant 16th-century Stadhuis (town hall)
the cathedral walls, such as
the restaurant Het Vermoeide at Torfbrug 10, is packed with Antwerp’s spectacular main
Model (“The Artist’s Sleepy religious statuary and the walls square, where you will see the
Model”) y. The bar on the adorned with paintings of saints more famous version of Brabo,
corner on the – the name means “The Eleventh by the noted Antwerp sculptor
other side Commandment”. Continue to Jef Lambeaux, and the town
of the street the Handschoenmarkt (Glove hall. Head down the Oude
called Het Market) from where there is a Koornmarkt (Old Cornmarket)
KIPD
ORP
Elfde Gebod u, magnificent view of Onze Lieve and Pelgrimsstraat. On the
S T JA Vrouwe Kathedraal (see p117) i. corner with Reyndersstraat is
M A RC O B S
KT
the pub called De Vagant p,
STR.
q which specializes in jenever
AA
T L A N G E N I E U W S T R A AT gin. De Groote Witte Arend
R F RA N KL I N G E ME
ST
(The Great White Eagle) a,
RA AT
EN A
T RO O S EVE LT ENT
EST
.2
A
P L A ATS R
KLAR
R
SS
T
at Reyndersstraat 18, is an old
EIK EN ST
.
SSTR
Z U Astrid
E
JE
and celebrated tavern with a
LANG
LEYSST
SEN
MEIR 6 R A AT
Opera courtyard. On Vrijdagmarkt
EES
S TA KONINGIN
T IE S ASTRIDPLEIN
TRA
ANN
7 AT (Friday Market) you will find

I
DE K
3 the Museum Plantin-Moretus
KLE
WAPP ER
8 EYS
ERLE
I
(see p120) s, a museum of
RIJ
AT
VE
ST
TRA
IN
early printing, set in the 16th-
NK
A P P EL MA NS S T R A AT
G
1
IN S
HOPLAND Diamant
5 century house of the printer
ST
FRA
ELL
RA
9
AT
QU
Centraal who gave us the typeface

P E L I K A A N S T R A AT
4
Station called Plantin. From here, walk
Key down Steenhouwersvest to the
Walk route ZOO square called St-Jansvliet, with
the River Scheldt beyond. For
the most part, Antwerp turns
its back on its wide and
windy river, but not the café-
Tips for Walkers restaurant Zuiderterras d –
0 metres 200
Starting point: Centraal Station an award-winning modern
Length: 3.2 km (2 miles) 0 yards 200 building with fine views across
Getting there: Centraal Station is the water.
served by bus and tram routes There is a well in the square
from all over the city. decorated with metalwork
Stopping-off points: There are foliage and a figure; this is
plenty of welcoming refreshment said to have been forged by
stops along the way. For a touch
the painter Quentin Metsys
of class, try the Grand Café Horta
in around 1495. The figure
(No. 9 on this walk). The walk
also passes other noted watering
depicts the Roman soldier
holes, such as Het Vermoeide Silvius Brabo, throwing
Model (No. 16), Het Elfde Gebod the hand of the evil giant
(No. 17), De Vagant (No. 20), Antigonius into the River
and De Groote Witte Arend Scheldt – the folkloric origin
(No. 21). Or save yourself for the of the name Antwerp
spectacular Zuiderterras (No. 23) (handwerpen means “hand-
overlooking the River Scheldt. throw”). Now go to the Boats moored on the busy dockside of the
Grote Markt (see p116) o, River Scheldt
The stainedglass windows are the cathedral was allowed to

among the finest in Belgium sell special indulgences (which
and were a gift from Emperor absolved the purchaser of their
Maximillian I in 1516. sins) to raise funds, on condition
One of Lier’s highlights is the that the pope received a
Zimmertoren, a 14thcentury percentage. Completed in
watchtower that now houses 1546, the cathedral’s tower
the clocks of Lodewijk Zimmer has Belgium’s finest carillion,
(1888–1970). This Lier merchant a set of 49 bells, whose peals
wanted to share his knowledge ring out at weekends and on
of timepieces. public holidays. The church
also contains The Crucifixion by
E Stedelijk Museum Wuyts Antony van Dyck (1599–1641).
Florent van Cauwenberg Straat 14. Less wellknown in Mechelen
Tel (03) 800 0396. Open 10am– are three 16thcentury houses
The Centenary Clock on Lier’s Zimmertoren midday 1–5pm Tue–Sun. by the River Dilje. They are not
or watchtower Closed Mon, public hols. & open to visitors, but their
P Zimmertoren exteriors are delightful. The
4 Lier Zimmerplein 18. Tel (03) 800 0395. “House of the Little Devils” is
Open 10am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & adorned with carved demons.
* 34,000. £ @ n Grote Markt 58,
Mechelen is famous for its local
(03) 800 0555. ∑ visitlier.be
beers, and visitors should try the
Lier is an attractive small town, 5 Mechelen Gouden Carolus, a dark brew
just 20 km (12 miles) southeast said to have been the favourite
* 77,000. £ @ n Hallestraat 2,
of Antwerp. The Grote Markt tipple of the Emperor Charles V.
Grote Markt, (070) 22 00 08.
is a spacious cobbled square ∑ toerisme.mechelen.be
framed by handsome historic E St Romboutskathedraal
buildings. The Stadhuis (town The seat of the Catholic Arch St Romboutskerkhof. Tel (015) 29
hall) was built in 1740, and its bishop of Belgium, Mechelen 4030. 8 obligatory for tower.
elegant dimensions contrast was the administrative capital Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. Tower:
strongly with the square, of the country under the 1–6pm Sun–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat (last
turreted 14thcentury Belfort Burgundian prince, Charles admission 4:40pm).
(belfry) adjoining. Nearby is the the Bold, in 1473. Today, it is
Stedelijk Museum Wuyts, with an appealing town whose
its collection of paintings by expansive main square is 6 Dendermonde
Flemish masters including Jan flanked by pleasant cafés and
* 40,000. £ @ n Stadhuis, Grote
Steen, Brueghel and Rubens. bars. To the west of the square
Markt, (052) 21 3956.
East of here, the church of St is the main attraction, St ∑ toerismedendermonde.be
Gummaruskerk, with its soaring Romboutskathedraal, a huge
stone pillars and vaulted roof, cathedral that took some 300 A quiet, industrial town,
evokes medieval times, and the years to complete. The building Dendermonde is about
carved altarpiece is notable might never have been finished 20 km (12 miles) southeast of
for its intricate biblical scenes. but for a deal with the Vatican: Ghent. Its strategic position, at
Mechelen’s main square, the Grote Markt, on market day

beers, especially lambic and

gueuze. Lambic is one of the
most popular types of beer in
Belgium (see pp148–9).
+ Gaasbeek
Kasteelstraat 40. Tel (02) 531 0130.
Open Easter–Nov 2: 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed Nov 3–Easter. (Park open
all year.)
8 Halle
* 36,800. £ @ n Stadhuis, Grote
Markt, (02) 356 4259. ∑ toerisme-
halle.be
Wood panelled walls and paintings in the hall at Gaasbeek Castle
Located on the outskirts
the confluence of the Scheldt attraction, the castle and of Brussels, in the province of
and Dender rivers, has attracted grounds of Gaasbeek. The castle Brabant, Halle is a peaceful little
the attention of a string of was remodelled in the 19th town. It has been a major religi-
invaders over the centuries, century, but actually dates from ous centre since the 13th century
including the Germans, who the 13th century, and boasts a because of the cult of the Black
shelled Dendermonde in 1914. moat and a thick curtain wall, Virgin, an effigy in the Onze Lieve
But the town is perhaps best- strengthened by huge semi- Vrouwebasiliek, the town’s main
known as the site of the Steed circular towers. The castle’s interior church. The holy statue’s
Bayard, a carnival held every ten holds an excellent collection of blackness is due to its stained
years at the end of August. fine and applied arts. Among colour, which is said to have
Today, the town’s spacious the treasures are rich tapestries, occurred through contact with
main square is framed by the 15th-century alabaster reliefs gunpowder during the religious
quaint turrets and towers of from England, silverware and a wars of the 17th century.
the Vleeshuis or Meat Hall. delightful ivory and copper The virgin has long been one
The Town Hall is an elegant hunting horn which belonged of Belgium’s most venerated
14th-century building which to the Protestant martyr Count icons and each year, on Whit
was extensively restored in Egmont in the 16th century. The Sunday, the statue is paraded
1920. Dendermonde also Pajottenland is also known for its through the town.
possesses two exquisite early
religious paintings by Anthony
van Dyck which are on display
in the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady).
7 Pajottenland
* 113,000. n Grote Markt 1, Halle,
(02) 356 4259. ∑ toerisme-
pajottenland.be
The Pajottenland forms part of

the Brabant province to the
southwest of Brussels, and is
bordered in the west by the
Dender River. The gentle rolling The Steed Bayard
hills of the landscape contain Dendermonde’s famous carnival of the Steed Bayard occurs every ten
many farms, some of which date years at the end of August – the next one is in 2020. The focus of the
back to the 17th century. The festival is a horse, the Steed Bayard itself, represented in the carnival
village of Onze Lieve Vrouw by a giant model. It takes 34 bearers to carry the horse which weighs
Lombeek, just 12 km (7 miles) 700 kg (1,540 lb) and is 5.8 m (19 ft) high. A procession of locals
west of Brussels, is named after dressed in medieval costume re-enact the Steed Bayard legend – a
its church, an outstanding complex tale of chivalry and treachery, family loyalty and betrayal. The
example of 14th-century Gothic four Aymon brothers (who were said to be the nephews of Emperor
architecture. Charlemagne) ride the horse, and it is their behaviour towards the
Just a short distance south of animal which serves to demonstrate their moral worth.
the village lies the area’s main
9 Leuven
Within easy striking distance of Brussels, the historic Flemish
town of Leuven traces its origins to a fortified camp con
structed here by Julius Caesar. In medieval times, the town
became an important centre of the cloth trade, but it was as
a seat of learning that it achieved international prominence.
In 1425, Pope Martin V and Count John of Brabant founded
Leuven’s university, and by the mid1500s it was one of
Europe’s most prestigious academic institutions, the home
of such famous scholars as Erasmus and Mercator. Even today,
the university exercises a dominant influence over the town,
and its students give Leuven a vibrant atmosphere. The bars
and cafés flanking the Oude Markt, a large square in the
centre of town, are especially popular. Adjoining the square
is the medieval Grote Markt, and near the centre is the Stella Huge buttresses supporting the tower
of St Pieterskerk
Artois Brewery, part of the world’s largest brewery group.
R St Pieterskerk and Museum
façade. A line of narrow win- Schatkamer van St Pieter
dows rise up over three floors Grote Markt. Tel (016) 29 5133.
beneath a steeply pitched roof Open 10am–4:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu–
adorned with dormer windows Sat; 11am–4:30pm Sun. Closed Wed,
and pencil-thin turrets. It is, 15 Aug, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan. & to
however, in the fine quality of museum.
its stonework that the building Across the square from the
excels, with delicately carved Stadhuis rises St Pieterskerk,
tracery and detailed medieval a massive church built over a
figures beneath 300 niche period of 200 years from the
bases. There are grotesques of 1420s. Inside the church, the
every description as well as sweeping lines of the nave are
representations of folktales and intercepted by an impressive
biblical stories, all carved in 1499 rood screen and a Baroque
exuberant late-Gothic style. wooden pulpit. The church also
Within the niche alcoves is a houses the Museum Schatkamer
Lively café society in the Oude Markt series of 19th-century statues van St Pieter (Treasury), which
depicting local dignitaries and has three paintings by Dirk
P Oude Markt politicians. Guided tours of Bouts (1415–75). Born in the
This handsome, cobble-stoned the interior are available, and Netherlands, Bouts spent most
square is flanked by a tasteful include three lavishly decorated of his working life in Leuven,
ensemble of high-gabled brick reception rooms. becoming its official artist.
buildings. Some of these date
from the 18th century; others E Stella Artois Brewery
are comparatively new. At Vuurkruisenlaan. Open Sat & Sun. &
ground level, these buildings 8 obligatory. A 90-minute tour with
house the largest concentration beer tasting in Dutch at 1pm and in
of bars and cafés in town, and as English at 3pm on Sat & Sun, with an
such attract the town’s univer- additional tour in English at 11am in
sity students in their droves. Jul & Aug.
With brewing being an important
P Stadhuis part of Leuven’s history since the
Grote Markt. Tel (016) 20 3020. 16th century, a visit to Belgium’s
Open daily. & 8 obligatory, beer capital would not be
3pm daily. complete without a brewery tour.
Built between 1439 and 1463 The Stella Artois Brewery offers
from the profits of the cloth a variety of tours on weekends
trade, Leuven’s town hall, the from May to October. All tours
Stadhuis, was designed to take place in the brewing hall,
demonstrate the wealth of the covering local beer-making
city’s merchants. This distinctive, history and the secrets of the
tall building is renowned for its Stone carvings of medieval figures decorate brewing process, with the option
lavishly carved and decorated the Stadhuis façade to finish with a beer in the bar.
LEUVEN  131
P Fochplein Much of the art on permanent VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Adjacent to the Grote Markt is display is by the early Flemish
the Fochplein, a narrow trian Masters, including the work of Practical Information
gular square containing some of Quentin Metsys (1465–1530), * 97,300. n Naamsestraat 1,
Leuven’s most popular shops, who was born in Leuven and 3000 Leuven, (016) 20 3020.
selling everything from fashion introduced Italian style to Transport
to food. In the middle is the northern European art. £ Bondgenotenlaan. @ Grote
Fons Sapienza, a modern Markt 9.
fountain that shows a student R St Michielskerk
pouring water through his Naamsestraat. Open Apr–Oct:
empty head – a pithy view of 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sun. charming redbrick cottages
the town’s student population. One of Leuven’s most impressive (dating mostly from the 17th
churches, St Michielskerk was century) is set around the grassy
E M-Museum Leuven built for the Jesuits in the middle squares and cobbled streets near
Leopold Vanderkelenstraat 28. of the 17th century. The church the River Dilje. Leuven university
Tel (016) 27 2929. Open 11am–6pm was badly damaged during World bought the complex in 1961
Fri–Tue (to 10pm Thu). & War II, but has since been carefully and converted the cottages into
∑ mleuven.be restored. Its graceful façade with student accommodation.
The former Museum Vander its flowing lines is an excellent
KelenMertens has been illustration of the Baroque style.
revamped as “M” and provides a The interior is regularly open
dynamic space for high profile to visitors for three afternoons
art exhibitions. It also gives during the summer months.
credance to Leuven’s claim as a The stunning 1660 carved
major city of the arts. The original woodwork around the altar and
collection still remains in the choir are well worth seeing.
17th–18th century mansion,
which was owned by the Vander R Groot Begijnhof
KelenMertens family until it was Schapenstraat. Open daily, for street
donated to the city in 1918. The access only.
rooms were refurbished in a Founded around 1230, the Groot
variety of styles, ranging from a Begijnhof, now a World Heritage
Renaissance salon to a Rococo Site, was once one of the largest
dining room, each with the béguinages in Belgium, home
appropriate antique furniture, to several hundred béguines The red-brick houses of Leuven’s Groot
silverware and ceramics. (see p57). The complex of 72 Begijnhof
Stella Artois
AL K Brewery Train Station
BE ON
BRUSS RT IN 700m (650 yards)
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0 Waterloo of the battle of Waterloo. The

admission price includes entry
The Battle of Waterloo was fought on 18 June 1815. It pitted to the Butte du Lion and
Napoleon and his French army against the Duke of Wellington, Panorama de la Bataille (below),
who was in command of troops mostly drawn from Britain, which are on the same site, and
also to nearby Hougoumont
Germany and the Netherlands. The two armies met outside Farm, where some of the most
the hamlet of Waterloo, to the south of Brussels. The result ferocious fighting took place,
was decisive. The battle began at 11:30am and just nine hours re-imagined here in another
later the French were in full retreat. Napoleon abdicated and dramatic multimedia exhibit.
was subsequently exiled to the island of St Helena, where he
died in mysterious circumstances six years later. Today, the
battlefield is one of the biggest European historical and
cultural sites, and one of the best preserved. The best place
to start a visit is at the Musée Wellington, some 5 km (3 miles)
from the battlefield, in the centre of Waterloo.
E Musée Wellington E Mémorial 1815

Chaussée de Bruxelles 147. Tel (02) Route du Lion, Braine l’Alleud, N5, 5km
357 2860. Open Apr–Sep: (3 miles) S of Waterloo. Tel (02) 385
9:30am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 1912. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm
10am–5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily. & 0
Dec. & 9 This interactive display with its
∑ museewellington.be
blood-curdling soundtrack The Butte du Lion viewed from the
The Waterloo Inn, where the immerses visitors in the events Waterloo battlefield
Duke of Wellington spent the
night before the battle, has been Brussels
turned into a museum, its rooms Waterloo
N5
packed with curios alongside Town Centre

plans and models of the actual
1 Musée Wellington
battle. One of the more quirky
2 Eglise St-Joseph Waterloo
exhibits is the artificial leg of
3 Mémorial 1815 Waterloo
Lord Uxbridge, one of
CHAU
4 Butte du Lion
RO
Wellington’s commanders. His

SSEE
leg was blown off during the 5 Panorama de la
battle and buried in Waterloo. Bataille

DE
After his death, the leg was sent 6 Napoleon’s Last

BRUXELL
to join the rest of him in England Headquarters

and, as recompense, his relatives
ES
sent his artificial one back Mont-

to Waterloo. St-Jean
7
N2
R Eglise St-Joseph RO
Braine UT
Chaussée de Bruxelles. l'Alleud ED
UL
ES
IO N
Tel (02) 352 0910.
E LL
Braine
NI V
CHAUSSE
Across the road from the Musée l'Alleud

DE
Wellington is the church of

E
SSÉ
St-Joseph, which was originally

E DE CHARLEROI
AU
RO
CH
built as a royal chapel at the end

Hougoumont
of the 17th century. Its dainty, Farm
elegant cupola pre-dates the
battle, after which it was
extended, with the newer
Plancenoit
portions containing dozens
N5
of memorial plaques and Key

flagstones dedicated to those Motorway
British soldiers who died at
CH RUX
Major road
AU EL
B
Waterloo. Several of these

SS LES
Minor road
EE
plaques were paid for by

DE
0 kilometres 1
voluntary contributions from Railway
0 miles 1
ordinary soldiers in honour of Charleroi
their officers.
P Butte du Lion
315 Route du Lion, Ring Ouest exit 25,
5 km (3 miles) S of Waterloo. Tel (02)
385 1912. Open daily. &
Dating from 1826, the Butte
du Lion is a 45-m- (148-ft-)
high earthen mound built on
the spot where the future King
of the Netherlands, the Prince
of Orange, was wounded
during the battle. Steps lead
to the top, which is guarded
by a huge cast-iron lion, and
from here, there is a great
view over the battlefield. A
plan of the battle is displayed The summer drawing room in the 18th-century Château d’Attre, near Ath
at the top and for a small
charge, added to the ticket for q Ath w Ypres
the Mémorial 1815, you can * 28,500. £ @ n Rue de * 35,000. £ @ n 34 Market
rent a virtual reality headset Pintamont 18, (068) 26 5170. Square, (057) 23 9220.
that allows you to “see” how the
troops were deployed across This quiet town is known for its During World War I, Ypres, or
the landscape. festival – the Ducasse – which Ieper in Flemish (and familiar
occurs every year on the fourth to British soldiers as “Wipers”),
P Panorama de la Bataille weekend in August. It features was used as a supply depot for
252–254 Route du Lion, Braine- the “Parade of the Giants”, a the British army. The Germans
L’Alleud. N5, 5 km (3 miles) S of procession of gaily decorated shelled Ypres to pieces, but
Waterloo. Tel (02) 385 1912. giant figures representing after the war, the town was
Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm; characters from local folklore rebuilt to its earlier design,
Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm. & and the Bible. complete with a replica of its
This is perhaps the most A few kilometres northeast 13th-century Lakenhalle
fascinating of the several is one of the most popular (cloth hall). Part of its interior
attractions beneath the Butte attractions in the region, the has been turned into the “In
du Lion. This circular painting Château d’Attre. This handsome Flanders Fields” Museum, a
of the battle by artist Louis 18th-century palace was built thoughtfully laid-out series
Demoulin was erected in 1912. in 1752 by the Count of of displays that attempts to
It is 110 m (360 ft) long and Gomegnies, chamberlain to the conjure the full horrors of
stretches right round a circular, Hapsburg Emperor Joseph II. World War I.
purpose-built gallery. This is There is also the Menin Gate
one of the few late 19th-century + Château d’Attre memorial, inscribed with the
panoramic, circular paintings Attre. Tel (068) 45 4460. £ to Attre. names of over 50,000 British and
that remain intact. Open Jul–Aug: 1–5pm Sat & Sun; Commonwealth troops who
Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: 2–5pm Sun. died in the area but have no
E Napoleon’s Last Closed Nov–Mar. known resting place.
Headquarters
66 Chaussée de Bruxelles, Vieux-
Genappe, N5, 7 km (4.5 miles) S of A Legacy of Conflict
Waterloo. Tel (02) 384 2424. Ypres and the area around it was the scene of some of the bloodiest
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & battles of World War I, including Passchendaele, in which more than
Napoleon spent the eve of 500,000 men died. There are numerous guided tours of the battlefields
the battle in a farmhouse, Le on offer, but many visitors choose to go on a self-driven tour (see overleaf).
Caillou. That farmhouse has Ypres makes a good overnight base for those planning to devote two
been transformed into a days to the sites, monuments and vast cemeteries on the route.
museum, often referred to as
the Caillou Museum. Among
the items on display are a
number of artifacts from
Napoleon’s army, a bronze
death mask of the Emperor and
his army-issue bed.
In the garden is an ossuary,
which contains bones of some
of the soldiers who died during The battlefield at Passchendaele Ridge in 1917
the battle.
e A Tour of World War I Battlefields Diksmuide

In 1914, the invading German army forced the Belgians to retreat
to the far northeast, behind the River IJzer. To impede further
German advance, the Belgians opened the sluicegates of the
river and flooded the landscape, which formed an effective
obstacle as far south as Diksmuide. South of here, the Germans
Woumen
confronted the Allies along a ridge to the east of Ypres called
the Ypres Salient. Between 1915 and 1917, this was the front
er
Ijz
line, where the gruelling stalemate of trench warfare cost more
Blankaart
than 500,000 lives. Today, the area around the Salient is a
beguilingly pretty landscape dotted with monuments, Natuurreservaat
de Blankaart
museums and numerous cemeteries.
Merkem
1 Diksmuide and
Dodengang
The Belgians dug in
along the canal of
Diksmuide. Some of
their trenches have
been preserved at Bikschote
Dodengang.
2 John McCrae Site

Bunkers, dressing WEG
RKS
stations and the Essex EMA
LANG
Farm Cemetery recall Boezing
where Canadian medic
Elverdinge
Ijzer
John McCrae served,

and wrote his poem
“In Flanders Fields”. The
poem established the
poppy as the symbol
of the war dead.
3 Langemark This 4 Guynemer Monument Ypres

haunting German military A sculpture of a stork
cemetery has the flat at Poelkapelle celebrates the
tombstones of some pioneer of military aviation
44,000 soldiers laid out Georges Guynemer, who was lost,
beneath a cloak of trees. presumed dead, near here in 1917.
Dikkebus
Dikkebusse
Vijver Voormezele
5 Canadian Forces
Memorial At St-Juliaan,
the large bust of The HEUVELLAND
Brooding Soldier
commemorates the
2,000 soldiers who died
Kemmel
after the first ever gas
attack in 1915.
6 Tyne Cot Cemetery The largest
Commonwealth cemetery in the world
contains nearly 12,000 graves. The walls Wulvergem
bear the names of 35,000 missing soldiers. Mesen
7 Memorial Museum
Passchendale Tips for Drivers
This 19th-century Starting point: Diksmuide.
mansion, located in
Length: 60 km (37 miles).
Zonnebeke, contains
Duration of drive: A thorough
numerous World War I
tour will require two days. It can
artifacts, and includes
be done in one day, but visitors
impressively recon-
may need to be selective.
structed dugouts
Driving conditions: The roads
and trenches.
are good and usually fairly quiet.
Signposting can be random.
Where to stay and eat: The main
8 Menin Gate centre is Ypres, but there are
Each evening in Ypres, restaurants and accommodation
the Last Post, played by all along the route, especially in
buglers at the Menin Gate, the smaller centres such as
echoes beneath the huge Diksmuide, Zonnebeke, Zillebeke,
arch which lists the Kemmel and Mesen.
names of 55,000 missing
Commonwealth soldiers.
9 Hill 62, Sanctuary Wood
Museum A private collection of
0 kilometres 2 military jumble leads to a wood
0 miles 2 where original trenches have
been preserved.
Langemark
0 Hill 60, Zillebeke

A battered, scarred hilltop, the
R
ST
Poelkapelle
much disputed Hill 60 faced
E
NG
E ZI
BO devastating attacks from
underground mines.
ZO
NN
EB
EK
ST
RA
AT
Zonnebeke
q Pool of Peace
Underground mining and a huge explosion
beneath German lines in 1917 resulted in the
water-filled Lone Tree Crater, which has now
Zillebeekse been designated the Pool of Peace.
Vijver
Zillebeke
A AT
S TR
RT
AA
e Irish Peace Tower
V
This Irish monastic round tower w French Memorial

in early medieval style was built in and Ossuary
1998 at Mesen to commemorate The land rises
the Irish dead, and as a symbol dramatically in
of reconciliation. Heuvelland (Hill
Country) and around
Kemmel. The French
Key fatalities in a battle of
Tour route 1918 are remembered
Motorway
in a monument on
Kemmel Hill, and
Other road 5,000 lie nearby in
Battlefront 1915–17 the French Ossuary.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 138–143

Where to Eat and Drink 144–159
Shopping 160–163
Entertainment 164–167
138  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
For most of the year, Brussels is primarily represented in the city, with equally keen
a business or political destination, and prices. Bruges is famous for its fabulously
accommodation is often priced accordingly. romantic accommodation, in top-of-the-
The wide range of top hotels has one range luxury hotels as well as its B&Bs,
fine advantage for the visitor – weekend but there are also plenty of competitive,
and summer deals make it possible to stay standard hotels for the more cost-conscious.
in some of Europe’s most luxurious Antwerp and Ghent are also both rewarding
establishments on even a modest budget. places to stay overnight, and have a good
The mid-range of hotels is also well range of hotels to choose from.
Where to Look Most hotels serve a good, person per night, but can be as
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and continental-style buffet breakfast much as €9.50 per night in a
Antwerp are all good for (with patisserie, cereals, sliced five-star hotel. There may be an
walking in – so if you are visiting charcuterie and cheeses) and additional charge for parking,
these cities to see the sights, some offer English-breakfast- up to about €25 a night. While
find somewhere near the style cooked food. Breakfast can some hotels are happy to allow
centre. If arriving by train, the cost anything between €10 and pets (do check in advance),
stations deposit you fairly near €35 per person, so if you intend they are likely to add a small
the centre of all the cities, with to have breakfast in the hotel, nightly charge to the bill.
the exception of Ghent. In check in advance if it is included
Brussels there is something of in the room price.
a geographical divide between It is usual to be charged extra Hotel Gradings
the historic city centre around if you place additional guests in and Facilities
the Grand Place and the a double room, sometimes even Hotels are graded on a star
European Quarter, which has its if they are children, so be sure to system (1–5 stars) overseen by
own cluster of hotels, but there ask when you book. Youth the regional governments of
are many hotels in between, hostels cater very well to the Belgium. Stars are awarded
and the distances are never budget or student traveller and according to the features,
very great. some also have family rooms. facilities and services provided
by the hotel, but they are not
necessarily an indicator of the
Room Rates Taxes and Charges quality of the experience of
In Brussels, hotels at the top Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and staying there. Four-star hotels
end of the market offer Bruges post City Taxes on rooms may tick all the boxes (the
exceptional standards of at varying local rates, based on rooms will all have a desk,
comfort and convenience to rather complex calculations. The minibar, safe etc), but the three-
their largely corporate clients, City Tax element in the price star hotel next door may be far
and their prices tend to reflect should be given to you in more agreeable.
this. In general, room rates are advance, and is not usually Almost all hotels and B&Bs in
higher than in the rest of included in the room price. It these cities now offer free Wi-Fi
Belgium, but on a par with comes to about €2.50 per access; many of them (especially
other European capitals. For a
night in a luxury hotel, expect
to pay between €250 and €400
for a double room.
The average price for a
room in the city is around
€130 per night, tracking the
accommodation allowance
for EU officials, but prices
may rocket upwards during
special events, such as during
the Seafood Expo Global
in late April. In Brussels, look
out for bargain weekend and
off-season rates. Bruges is
generally more expensive at
weekends, but many of the
high-quality B&Bs hold the
same price year-round. Unique frescoes decorate each room at Bloom (see p141)
Restaurants along the Rue des Bouchers, near the Grand Place, Brussels
W H E R E TO S TAY  139
one- or two-bedroom apart-

ment to €1,000 or more for
more luxurious lodgings. Visit
the Tourist Offices for detailed
suggestions or try the Internet
service Airbnb.
Bed-and-Breakfasts
Bed-and-breakfasts, also called
chambres d’hôte in Brussels,
can provide a very pleasant
alternative to staying in a
Warm interiors of Le Plaza, Brussels (see p141) hotel, and rooms can often be
found even in the centre of
those catering for business remembering, however, that town. In Bruges, some luxurious
clients) have fitness facilities, many hotel buildings in these and utterly charming B&Bs in
some including saunas, and a cities are historic and cannot historic buildings are more akin
few have swimming pools. be adapted, but all hotels and to mini-boutique hotels.
Plenty of hotels have their own their staff will go out of their
bars, but relatively few have way to accommodate guests
their own restaurants: there is a with special requirements, if Recommended Hotels
wide choice of restaurants in all they can. The many hotels featured in
the cities, usually within walking this guide have been selected
distance of the hotels. across as wide a price range
As a business centre and one Youth Accommodation as possible for their excellent
of Europe’s major centres for the There are good youth hostels facilities, good location and
convention trade, many of the that are affiliated to Hostelling usually great value. From
larger hotels in Brussels have International in all the cities. historic, often centuries-old,
fully-equipped meeting and Note that there are also a buildings in the city centres
function rooms. The same also number of youth-hostel-style to those slightly outside the
applies to Antwerp, and to hotels offering rooms at very major tourist areas in lovely
Bruges and Ghent, albeit on a competitive prices. They include garden settings, these hotels
smaller scale. Sleep Well and the Train encompass all that is available.
Hostel in Brussels, and Charlie For our pick of the very best,
Rockets in Bruges. A bed in a look out for hotels labelled
How to Book four-person room should cost DK Choice. These establish-
The best way to see the range around €25, rising to around ments have been highlighted
of hotels on offer is to go to €45 for a single room. in recognition of an exceptional
the Internet booking websites feature – a stunning location,
(such as booking.com and notable history, inviting
hotels.com) and insert the Travelling with Children atmosphere or outstanding
dates that you require. These Children are welcome at almost value. Many of these are very
websites offer instant online all hotels in these cities, with popular, so reserve as early
bookings, often at rates far many making concerted efforts as possible.
below those quoted by the to cater for the needs of those
hotels themselves. This is not travelling with children. If family
always the case, however: rooms are not available, many
increasingly, hotels have been hotels will add single beds and
encouraging guests to book cots to double rooms. Always
through their websites by check with the hotel in advance
offering better prices or deals, to see what is offered, and if
such as including breakfast in extra charges might be incurred.
their price if you book direct.
Self-Catering Apartments
Travellers with There is no shortage of self-
Disabilities catering accommodation and
Hotels in Brussels and the rest “Apart Hotels” in all the cities,
of Belgium take the needs of many of them available for a
travellers with disabilities short stay as well as by the
seriously. Many have one or week or month. Prices start at
more fully adapted rooms for around €600 per week for a The opulent lobby at the Hilton Brussels
wheelchair users. It is worth fairly basic but furnished Grand Place (see p141)
Where to Stay
Druum € Price Guide
Brussels Historic Map 1 B2 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Rue du Houblon 63, 1000 high season for a standard double room,
Lower Town Tel (02) 503 63 00 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
9Hotel Central € ∑ druum.be € up to €150
Historic Map 2 E3 Steps from the fashion heartland €€ €150 to €250
€€€ over €250
Rue des Colonies 10, 1000 of Rue Antoine Dansaert, this
Tel (02) 504 9910 top-end B&B has six bright and
∑ le9hotel.com spacious designer rooms. Marivaux €
Historic, well-priced four-star Modern Map 2 D1
hotel near the Royal Palace. Floris Arlequin Grand’Place € Blvd Adolphe Max 98, 1000
Helpful, efficient service. Modern Map 2 D2 Tel (02) 227 0300
Rue de la Fourche 17–19, ∑ hotelmarivaux.be
Aris Grand Place € Greepstraat, 1000 The rooms of this comfortable,
Historic Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 514 1615 modern hotel are large and
Marché aux Herbes 78–80, 1000 ∑ florishotelarlequin.be pleasantly decorated. Stylish
Tel (02) 514 4300 A modern, three-star hotel in bar and brasserie.
∑ arishotel.be the heart of the historical centre.
Housed in a late 19th-century Good breakfasts. Novotel Brussels Centre
building, this hotel is superb Midi Station €
value given its location in the Grande Cloche € Modern Map 1 B5
heart of the town. Modern double- Historic Map 1 C4 Av Fonsny 5–7, 1060
glazing keeps noise levels low. Place Rouppe 10, 1000 Tel (02) 533 1090
Tel (02) 512 6140 ∑ novotel.com
Astrid Centre Hotel € ∑ hotelgrandecloche.com Modern hotel that offers a range
Modern Map 1 C1 Occupies a renovated 19th- of comfortable rooms. Guests
Place du Samedi 11, 1000 century town house. Ideal for can enjoy a buffet breakfast while
Tel (02) 219 3119 budget travellers. looking out onto the rear garden.
∑ astridcentrehotel.com
A comfortable and efficient Hotel La Madeleine € Queen Anne €
hotel. Rooms are large with Historic Map 2 D3 Value Map 2 D1
modern furnishings and Rue de la Montagne 20–22, 1000 Blvd Emile Jacqmain 110, 1000
facilities. Superb breakfast. Tel (02) 513 2973 Tel (02) 217 1600
∑ hotel-la-madeleine.be ∑ queen-anne.be
Bedford € Charming, pet-friendly, with room Welcoming Queen Anne is small
Family Map 1 C3 options to meet all budgets. and friendly, with nice rooms,
Rue du Midi 135–137, 1000 Some have shared bathrooms. 11 apartments and a generous
Tel (02) 507 0000 buffet breakfast.
∑ hotelbedford.be Hotel Van Belle €
This four-star hotel has spacious Modern Map 1 A3 Le Quinze €
and comfortable standard rooms, Chaussée de Mons 39, 1070 Value Map 2 D3
but also offers sumptuously Tel (02) 521 3516 Grand Place 15, 1000
decorated executive rooms and ∑ hotelvanbelle.be Tel (02) 511 0956
suites suitable for families. Offers rooms that are comfortable ∑ hotel-le-quinze-grand-place.be
and well furnished. The communal Rooms are basic but, some have
Congrès € lounge area has a large open fire. fantastic views of the Grand
Historic Map 2 F2 Place. Friendly and helpful staff,
Rue du Congres 42, 1000 Manhattan € free Wi-Fi, and breakfast can be
Tel (02) 217 1890 Modern Map 2 D1 served in the rooms.
∑ hotelducongrès.be Blvd Adolphe Max 132–140, 1000
This peaceful three-star hotel Tel (02) 219 1619 La Vieille Lanterne €
occupies four elegantly ∑ hotelmanhattan.be Value Map 1 C3
renovated 19th-century town Very well priced but pretty basic. Rue des Grands Carmes 29, 1000
houses. The staff are courteous The neat, comfortable rooms have Tel (02) 512 7494
and friendly. an old-fashioned feel to them. ∑ lavieillelanterne.be
Good-value hostel with six
rooms. All are brightly decorated,
and benefit from great views
onto Manneken Pis.
Atlas €€
Modern Map 1 C2
Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains
30, 1000
Tel (02) 502 6006
∑ atlas-hotel.be
Three-star hotel just to the north
of Grand Place. Offers basic but
pleasant rooms and usually has
Simple, contemporary room at Bloom, Lower Town some good weekend deals.
Bloom €€ NH Grand Place Arenberg €€

Design Map 2 E2 Modern Map 2 D2
Rue Royal 250, 1210 Rue d’Assaut 15, 1000
Tel (02) 220 6905 Tel (02) 501 1616
∑ hotelbloom.com ∑ nh-hotels.com
Boutique hotel with comfortable, A modern hotel within sight of
contemporary rooms, each Brussels’ cathedral. The rooms have
decorated with a unique fresco been wonderfully refurbished to
by a different local artist. their current spotless state.
Brussels Marriott Hotel Noga €€

Grand Place €€ Modern Map 1 C1
Modern Map 1 C2 Rue du Béguinage 38, 1000
Rue Auguste Orts 3–7, 1000 Tel (02) 218 6763
Tel (02) 516 9090 ∑ nogahotel.com
∑ marriott.com A friendly hotel near the church
This five-star hotel in the heart of of St-Jean-Baptiste, Noga is like a
Brussels offers all one has come home away from home. Eclectic
to expect from a Marriott: from Luxurious interiors at the Métropole, furnishings. Good weekend deals.
large rooms to plenty of little Lower Town
extras. Great breakfast. Novotel Tour Noire €€
Hilton Brussels Grand Place €€ Family Map 1 C2
Café Pacific €€ Luxury Map 2 D3 Rue de la Vierge Noire 32, 1000
Design Map 1 B2 Carrefour de l’Europe 3, 1000 Tel (02) 620 0428
Rue Antoine Dansaert 57, 1000 Tel (02) 548 4211 ∑ novotel.com
Tel (02) 833 3040 ∑ hilton.com Well-priced base in the heart of
∑ hotelcafepacific.com One of Belgium’s finest hotels, the city, with plenty of family-
Modern, boutique hotel in offering smart, spacious, modern friendly facilities – including a
one of the trendiest areas of rooms and excellent amenities. gym and a jetstream pool.
Brussels. Ideal for couples and
families alike. La Legende €€ Opera €€
Value Map 1 C3 Modern Map 2 D2
Citadines St. Catherine €€ Rue du Lombard 35, 1000 Rue Grétry 53, 1000
Family Map 1 C1 Tel (02) 512 8290 Tel (02) 219 4343
Quai au Bois à Brûler 51, 1000 ∑ hotellalegende.com ∑ hotel-opera.be
Tel (02) 221 1411 Modern two-star hotel, reasonably Quiet and friendly spot,
∑ citadines.com priced and welcoming. Also offers with simply decorated rooms.
Studio apartments with a quiet four-bed family rooms. Well-priced for the location.
communal garden, on self-catering Complimentary buffet breakfast.
or half-board basis. A good choice Matignon €€
for a stay of a week or more. Value Map 1 C2 Le Plaza €€
Rue de la Bourse 8–12, 1000 Historic Map 2 D1
Crowne Plaza €€ Tel (02) 511 0888 Blvd Adolphe Max 118–126, 1000
Historic Map 2 E1 ∑ hotelmatignon.be Tel (02) 278 0100
Rue Gineste 3, 1210 Small yet rather gorgeous place ∑ leplaza-brussels.be
Tel (02) 203 6200 offering simple but thoughtfully An opulent five-star hotel,
∑ ihg.com decorated rooms. Great breakfast. Le Plaza even has its own theatre.
An Art Nouveau hotel dating The building dates back to 1930
back to 1908, combining turn-of- when it was built to model Paris’
the-century style with modern DK Choice famous George V hotel.
facilities. Book in advance during Métropole €€
the busy summer season. Historic Map 1 D2 Scandic Grand Place €€
Place de Brouckère 31, 1000 Luxury Map 2 D2
The Dominican €€ Tel (02) 217 2300 Rue d’Arenberg 18, 1000
Design Map 1 D2 ∑ metropolehotel.com Tel (02) 548 1811
Rue Léopold 9, 1000 Built in 1895, this legendary ∑ scandichotels.com
Tel (02) 203 08 08 plush hotel boasts striking Luxury hotel with sumptuous
∑ carlton.nl architecture and gorgeous rooms situated behind the
On the site of a 15th-century period furnishings, traditional façades of two listed town
monastery, with fresh, plush concierge service, an on-site houses. Has a popular bar
rooms and a lounge with high hairdresser and laundry, and an and restaurant, a sauna and
arched ceilings and glass walls up-to date fitness centre. a fitness room.
overlooking the courtyard.
Welcome €€
Hilton Brussels City €€ NH Brussels Carrefour Modern Map 1 C1
Modern Map 2 E2 de l’Europe €€ Quai au Bois à Brûler 23, 1000
Place Rogier 20, 1210 Business Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 219 9546
Tel (02) 203 3125 Rue du Marché aux Herbes 110, 1000 ∑ hotelwelcome.com
∑ hilton.com Tel (02) 504 9400 This charming hotel lives up to
Sophisticated city hotel offering ∑ nh-hotels.com its name. It offers a range of
large, comfortable rooms and Elegant four-star hotel targeted good rooms and serves a terrific
multiple facilities for tourists and at the business traveller, well- complimentary buffet in its
business travellers alike. located with light, spacious rooms. Art Deco breakfast room.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 138–9
Amigo €€€ New Hotel Charlemagne €€

Luxury Map 1 C3 Business Map 3 B2
Rue de l’Amigo 1–3, 1000 Blvd Charlemagne 25–27, 1000
Tel (02) 547 4747 Tel (02) 230 2135
∑ roccofortehotels.com ∑ new-hotel.com
Five-star hotel providing an Located in the heart of the
elegant setting in a great European district, the rooms
location. Rooms have king-size at this hotel are modern and
beds and marble bathrooms. comfortably furnished.
Award-winning restaurant.
The Hotel Brussels €€€
Le Châtelain €€€ Luxury Map 2 E5
Luxury Map 2 D5 Blvd de Waterloo 38, 1000
Rue de Châtelain 17, 1000 Tel (02) 504 1111
Tel (02) 646 0055 ∑ thehotel-brussels.be
∑ le-chatelain.com Four-star hotel offering luxury
This five-star hotel prides itself facilities and service in a central
on its traditional hospitality location. There are unparalleled
and attention to detail. The luxurious Amigo, a stone’s throw views of the city from the
Soundproof rooms and from the Hôtel de Ville refurbished rooms.
luxurious bathrooms.
Chambord € Stanhope €€€
Radisson Blu Royal €€€ Modern Map 2 E4 Luxury Map 2 F4
Design Map 2 D2 Rue De Namur 82, 1000 Rue du Commerce 9, 1000
Rue du Fosse-aux-Loups 47, 1000 Tel (02) 548 9910 Tel (02) 506 9111
Tel (02) 219 2828 ∑ hotel-chambord.be ∑ stanhope.be
∑ radissonblu.com The Penthouse Suite of the Deluxe Belgian hospitality in
Fabulous five-star hotel behind Chamboard has a stunning three converted town houses.
a glorious Art Deco façade, view from its terrace. Some of Elegant rooms, beautiful interior
designed by famed Belgian the standard rooms have their garden and gourmet restaurant.
designer, Michel Jaspers. own balconies as well. Look out for weekend deals.
Chambres en Ville €
DK Choice Value Map 2 F2 Greater Brussels
Warwick Brussels €€€ Rue de Londres 19, 1050 Alliance Hotel Brussels Expo €
Luxury Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 512 9290 Business
Rue Duquesnoy 5, 1000 ∑ chambresenville.be Av Imperatrice Charlotte 6, 1020
Tel (02) 505 5555 Wonderfully chic guesthouse Tel (02) 478 7080
∑ warwickhotels.com designed by the artist-owner ∑ alliance-brussels-expo.h-rez.com
This exquisitely luxurious Philippe Guilmin. Studio Near the Brussels Exhibition
establishment by the Grand apartments for longer stays. Centre, with a metro station
Place is one of the best hotels close by. Rooms are basic but
in the city. Marble bathrooms Sabina € comfortable.
and French antiques adorn the Value Map 2 F2
rooms, some of which are very Rue du Nord 78, 1000 Best Western County House €
spacious. The Grand Place Tel (02) 218 2637 Business
Suite is one of the finest ∑ hotelsabina.eu Square des Heros 2–4, 1180
hotel rooms in Europe. No-frills hotel tucked away in a Tel (02) 375 4420
quiet corner in the city centre. ∑ bestwestern.be
Althought some rooms are Spacious rooms in a peaceful
small, the hotel is, nevertheless, park-side location. Enjoy
Upper Town excellent value for money. complimentary buffet breakfast.
Best Western Hotel Meeting and conference centre.
Royal Centre € 9Hotel Sablon €€
Modern Map 2 F1 Design Map 2 D4 Capital €
Rue Royale 160, 1000 Rue de la Paille 2, 1000 Modern
Tel (02) 219 0065 Tel (02) 880 0701 Chaussée de Vleurgat 191, 1050 Ixelles
∑ royalcentre.be ∑ le9hotel.com Tel (02) 646 6420
A well-priced four-star hotel Friendly boutique hotel with a ∑ hotelcapital.be
within walking distance of the Finnish sauna, whirlpool tub and Well-fitted rooms, with more
Royal Palace. Rates inclusive of relaxation centre. Boasts large luxurious suites also available.
Continental breakfast. rooms with split-level suites. In summer, enjoy breakfast
on the terrace.
Les Bluets € La Dixseptieme €€
Value Historic Map 2 D3 Rembrandt €
Rue Berckmans 124, 1060 Rue de la Madeleine 25, 1000 Value
Tel (02) 534 3983 Tel (02) 517 1717 Rue de la Concorde 42, 1050 Ixelles
∑bluets.be ∑ ledixseptieme.be Tel (02) 512 7139
Charming family-run, non- The former home of a 17th- ∑ hotelrembrandt.be
smoking hotel in a 19th-century century Spanish ambassador. A cosy, family-run hotel that’s full
bourgeois town house. Eight All rooms are named after of character, and superb value
rooms decorated with a mix of famous Belgian artists and the given its excellent location near
antique furnishings. lounge has its own art library. Avenue Louise.
Key to Price Guide see page 140
Kasteel Gravenhof €€ Prinsenhof €€ this hotel offers grandeur at

Historic Historic Map N3 good prices. The high-ceilinged
Alsembergsesteenweg 676, 1653 Ontvangersstraat 9, 8000 rooms have large windows and
Dworp Tel (050) 34 26 90 are elegantly appointed.
Tel (02) 380 4499 ∑ prinsenhof.com
∑ gravenhof.be Set amid lovely grounds, this Postiljon €
A stately castle hotel built in 1649 15th-century building offers a Value Map K1
in the middle of a magnificent range of rather contemporary Blauwmoezelstraat 6, 2000
stretch of parkland. The rooms rooms. Excellent breakfasts. Tel (03) 231 7575
have all the period fittings and ∑ hotelpostiljon.be
luxurious furnishings. Pand €€€ Antwerp’s best bargain hotel. The
Design Map P3 rooms are smart and comfortable;
Monty €€ Pandreitje 16, 8000 ask for one with a view of the
Design Map 4 F3 Tel (050) 34 06 66 cathedral. No breakfast.
Blvd Brand Whitlock 101, 1200 ∑pandhotel.com
Tel (02) 734 5636 An 18th-century mansion in the Firean €€
∑ monty-hotel.be heart of Bruges, offering historic Luxury
A design hotel boasting charm with lots of modern, Karel Oomsstraat 6, 2018
luxurious rooms, a colourful designer touches. Tel (03) 237 0260
lounge, a bar and large private ∑ hotelfirean.com
gardens. Breakfast is included. A welcoming four-star hotel in
an early-20th century Art Deco
Sofitel Le Louise €€€ Ghent mansion. With crystal chandeliers
Luxury Map 2 D5 in the lounge, antique furnishings
Av de la Toison d’Or 40, 1050 Ixelles De Waterzooi €€ and a secluded garden. Breakfast
Tel (02) 514 2200 Value Map S1 not included.
∑ sofitel.com Sint-Veerleplein, 9000
Rooms at the Sofitel Le Louise Tel (0475) 436 111 Hilton Antwerp Old Town €€
are modern and comfortable. ∑ dewaterzooi.be Historic Map K2
Good dining options and fitness There are only three rooms at this Groenplaats, 2000
centre. Well-placed for exploring B&B, so book well in advance. Tel (03) 204 1212
antique shops and museums. Both are gorgeous, especially the ∑ hilton.com
spilt-level Phara suite. An architectural landmark,
located behind a listed Baroque
Sandton Grand Hotel façade. Rooms are large and
Bruges Reylof €€€ great value.
Luxury Map R1
Goezeput € Hoogstraat 36, 9000 t’ Sandt €€
Historic Map N4 Tel (09) 235 40 70 Historic Map K2
Goezeputstraat 29, 8000 ∑ sandton.eu Zand 13–19, 2000
Tel (050) 34 26 94 Grand in every way. One of the Tel (03) 232 9390
∑ hotelgoezeput.be few hotels in the city to boast a ∑ hotel-sandt.be
A converted monastery offering swimming pool. Elegant rooms, Occupies a protected Neo-
amazing-value rooms, some many with balconies offering Rococo building from the mid-
featuring original wooden floors fine views. 17th century. The rooms and
and roof beams. apartments feature unique decor.
de Orangerie €€€
DK Choice
Luxury Map P3 Antwerp
Kartuizerinnenstraat 10, 8000 Julien €€€
Tel (050) 34 16 49 Boulevard Leopold € Design Map K1
∑ hotelorangerie.be Value Korte Nieuwstraat 24, 2000
This waterfront hotel is set in Belgielei 135, 2018 Tel (03) 229 06 00
a 16th-century former convent. Tel (03) 225 5218 ∑ hotel-julien.com
The rooms are superb, and ∑ boulevard-leopold.be Occupying two 16th-century
the common areas boast Housed in a beautiful mansion in houses, this hotel is the
antiques galore. the atmospheric Jewish Quarter, epitome of Antwerp style. The
interior décor is elegant, the
rooms are luxurious and the
location perfectly placed in the
heart of the old town.
De Witte Lelie €€€

Luxury Map L1
Keizerstraat 16–18, 2000
Tel (03) 226 1966
∑ dewittelelie.be
Five-star B&B made up of three
converted 17th-century canal
houses. Rooms have great city
views and a mix of antique
Softly lit room at De Waterzooi, Ghent furnishings and modern facilities.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 138–9
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

It is almost impossible to eat badly in are carefully prepared and often innovative.
Belgium, if you steer clear of the obvious Venues range from Michelin-starred
tourist pitfalls. Flanders in particular has been restaurants to unpretentious local taverns
undergoing something of a gastronomic where diners can find generous servings
revolution in recent years, catapulting the of local specialities such as moules-frites
careers of a new generation of young chefs. (mussels and French fries) and waterzooï
Even meals in the lower- to mid-price bracket (a light fish or chicken stew).
snack in a tavern should cost Most cafés and taverns offer

no more than €20. The mark-up petite restauration (light meals) on
on wine can be very high, top or instead of a regular menu.
however; a bottle will typically These simple, traditional snacks
cost €20 or more. Note that water include croque monsieur, shrimp
is generally bottled, and you croquettes, chicory baked
have to pay for it. with ham and cheese, salads,
spaghetti bolognaise and
américain préparé (raw minced
Dining on a Budget beef with seasoning).
Many restaurants offer bargain,
fixed-price or rapid lunchtime
menus for under €15, plus a Opening Times
selection of reasonably priced Most restaurants serve lunch
Opulent belle époque dining room of the dishes of the day. Even when from noon until 2 or 3pm.
Belga Queen (see p151) dining at the city’s most Dinner is generally served from
upmarket eateries you can find 7pm onwards and last orders
Where to Eat similar lunchtime deals, meaning are taken as late as 10pm. Late-
The Belgian love affair with dining that you may be able to sample night restaurants, serving until
out makes for an astonishing haute cuisine for less than €40. midnight, can be found in the
concentration of restaurants and Brussels has most of the usual sidestreets of downtown
eateries: a 10-minute stroll from fast-food outlets, and sandwiches Brussels and a handful provide
almost anywhere in Brussels, are sold at most butchers or meals after 1am. Breakfast bars
Bruges, Ghent or Antwerp traiteurs (delicatessens), usually usually open around 7am.
should bring visitors to a decent with tuna, cheese or cold meat
restaurant, tavern or brasserie. fillings. Alternatively, visitors can
If you want guidance, ask your take advantage of Belgium’s Making a Reservation
hotel reception staff: most take national dish, frites/frieten (French When visiting one of the more
pride in advising guests on fries, hand-cut and double-fried celebrated restaurants, it is
where best to eat. They will also to ensure an even crispiness), advisable to book in advance.
usually advise you to avoid sold from vans and cabins (called The listings indicate where
tourist restaurants, with their friteries/frituurs); served in a paper booking is advisable. For
plasticized menus in four cone, with mayonnaise and those planning to go to the
languages; in Brussels, these dozens of other sauces, they legendary Comme Chez Soi
cluster around the Rue des can be eaten on their own, or (see p152), reserve weeks ahead
Bouchers, near the Grand Place; accompanied by a range of rather than hoping for a last-
in Bruges they are in the Markt. traditional meat and fish snacks. minute cancellation.
How Much to Pay

Most restaurants, taverns and
cafés display a menu in the
window and the majority take
credit cards. Prices usually include
VAT (21 per cent) and service
(16 per cent), although it is worth
checking the latter before tipping.
A meal at the most luxurious
restaurants can cost up to €150
per head, but diners can eat
superbly for around €50 per head
(including wine), and a hearty The contemporary interior of Lola, a fashionable Brussels brasserie (see p153)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  145
their customers with heated

outdoor terraces where
smoking is permitted.
Travellers with
Disabilities
While facilities for the disabled
in Brussels are in general not as
good as those in most other EU
capitals, almost every restaurant
in the city will go out of its
way to make disabled diners
feel comfortable. There are a
Outdoor tables at Chez Léon on Rue des Bouchers (see p151) limited number of restaurants
with ramps and ground-
Ordering Food vegetarian couscous courses. floor bathrooms, so check
On the whole, Belgians like to Ghent, by contrast, has actively accessibility before making a
eat beef fairly rare. If you ask for encouraged a move away from reservation; the same applies to
a medium-rare steak, it is likely meat-eating by declaring Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp.
to be cooked more rare than Thursday to be “Veggie Day”
medium. The quality of the beef (a promotional campaign,
usually justifies light cooking, rather than a strict edict). Recommended
but if you want your meat well Restaurants
done, insist on it, and ignore any The restaurants featured in this
raised eyebrows. Lamb is also Etiquette guide have been selected for
served rare; again, ask for it to Brussels, and Belgium generally, is their good food, value, location,
be well done if you prefer. Use less relaxed than, say, Amsterdam atmosphere or a combination of
the phrasebook at the back of and, although casual or smart- all of these. As wide a range of
this guide to help when ordering. casual dress is acceptable in all places as possible has been
restaurants, you will probably feel included, from cafés, pubs and
more comfortable dressing up bistros to a selection of the city’s
Breakfast and Snacks for upmarket places. Michelin-starred restaurants.
Breakfasting in a café or Look out for those tagged as a
brasserie, such as the Belgian DK Choice: these restaurants
chain Le Pain Quotidien (Het Children have been highlighted in
Dagelijks Brood in Dutch), is In general, Belgium is child- recognition of an exceptional
recommended if breakfast friendly. Many establishments feature – exquisite food, an
is not included in your hotel have children’s menus, although inviting atmosphere, an unusual
accommodation. For snackers they are not always the setting or simply great value.
with a sweet tooth, seek out cheapest option. Highchairs The majority of these are
the stands, vans or cafés should be available on request, exceptionally popular among
producing hot waffles, which and some restaurants have local residents as well as visitors,
can be topped with jam, cream indoor play areas. On the so be sure to enquire regarding
or chocolate. Sweet crêpes/ outskirts of Brussels or near one reservations or you may be faced
pannekoeken (pancakes), with of the parks, eateries may offer with a lengthy wait for a table.
lemon and sugar or chocolate, extensive outside playgrounds.
are just as popular – and filling. Children are usually allowed
in cafés and bars, although
they are forbidden to drink
Vegetarians alcohol. Note that while some
Despite a marked upturn in restaurants may be too formal
recent years, Brussels is far from for children to feel comfortable,
being a vegetarian-friendly city. not even the most celebrated
Pescetarians will find that Michelin-starred places will
mainstream restaurants cater turn them away.
generously to their needs;
Brussels is very strong on fish
and seafood. There are only a Smoking
handful of specialist vegetarian Brussels is still very much a
restaurants, but the traditional smokers’ city, although smoking
dish stoemp is a classic vege- is prohibited inside restaurants,
tarian dish. North African bars and cafés. Many bars and The elegant dining room of La Rose Blanche
restaurants usually offer restaurant premises provide in the Upper Town (see p152)
The Flavours of Brussels

Most Belgians are passionate about food and standards are
generally very high. The many first-class grocers, greengrocers,
butchers, fishmongers, bakers and pâtissiers, including Belgium’s
noted chocolatiers, are held in high public esteem, alongside
the nation’s top chefs and restaurateurs. In Brussels, the culinary
heart of the country, there are a wide range of fine eateries to
suit all budgets, serving both sophisticated Walloon (Belgian-
French) dishes alongside more basic, hearty Flemish fare.
A history of invasion has also added a dash of other European Belgian chocolates
culinary traditions, particularly those of Spain and Austria.
grilled or fried in butter, or Pasture and Woodland

swathed in a well-judged The flat, reclaimed land of
sauce, are always on the menu, northern Belgium and the hills
along with huge platters of of the south are home to herds
fruits de mer (mixed seafood). of cattle. Quality beef is the
A uniquely Belgian fish stock-in-trade of any Belgian
dish that is well worth seeking butcher, and steak-frites (steak
out is anguilles au vert (paling and chips) is a classic dish on
in’t groen), which consists of bistro menus. Belgians are so
large chunks of eel, cooked confident in their beef that
with a mass of finely chopped, they are happy to eat it raw:
fresh herbs. minced in steak à l’américaine
Bunches of white asparagus, some of Oysters
Belgium’s finest produce Lobster
Cockles Langoustine
Whelks
The North Sea
Brussels, being only 100 km
(62 miles) from the North Sea,
has a good supply of really
fresh fish and seafood. In Place
Sainte-Catherine, just to the
west of the Grand Place, there
used to be a bustling fish
market and the area remains a
centre for fish restaurants. The
best sole, cod, turbot, skate,
hake and monkfish, simply Selection of fine quality seafood
Local Dishes and Specialities

Although Belgian chefs produce some of the world’s
most complex and sophisticated cooking, many of
Belgium’s great classic dishes are relatively
simple, striking a healthy balance between
nourishment and pleasure. Fine examples
include steaming platefuls of moules-frites
and warming stews such as carbonnade
flamandes and waterzooï (which is made
with either fish or chicken), all dishes that
might well be labelled as “comfort” food.
Endives However, the quality of the ingredients and the
skill put into the making of such dishes in
Belgium invariably turns such homely fare into a Moules-frites Mussels, steamed
feast. Desserts include a host of sweet tarts and the ever-popular in their own juices with onion
waffles. Endive, almost the national vegetable, gets in here too, as a and white wine, are served with
flavouring for ice cream. chips and mayonnaise.
served with a dollop of

mayonnaise, are a favourite
street-food.
The Pâtissier
No Belgian community is
without a pâtisserie, selling
superlative tarts, cakes and
biscuits, and many pâtissiers
double-up as chocolatiers.
Gaufres (waffles) are another
great sweet treat, sold at
specialist shops and street
stalls. Enjoyed freshly made,
Fish restaurant in the elegant Galéries St-Hubert shopping arcade topped with knobs of butter
and a sprinkling of sugar, they
(or steak tartare) and on toast on in commercial market- may be raised to perfection
as the snack, toast cannibale. gardens. In the 1840s, Belgian with spoonfuls of jam or fruit
Dairy cattle are the source of gardeners created chicon and fresh cream.
fine cheeses, such as Herve, (witloof ) by forcing the roots of
Chimay and Maredsous. the chicorée lettuce. It is now ON THE MENU
Pork products include a one of Belgium’s most widely
range of sausages, patés and used vegetables, although the White asparagus An early
the noted Ardennes ham. In most popular must be the summer speciality, it is usually
potato, in the form of chips served with melted butter or
autumn and winter, look out
hard-boiled egg and parsley.
for game, such as wild boar, (French fries). Frites (frietjes),
pheasant and venison, often Jets d’houblon Spring menus
served in a rich fruity sauce. feature this dish of young hop
Quail, guinea fowl, pigeon and shoots in a creamy sauce.
rabbit are also popular. Crevettes grises Tiny but
big on flavour, these “grey”
shrimps are a popular snack.
The Vegetable Patch
Stoemp Mashed potato, with
Not long ago, most Belgian flecks of vegetables or meat,
householders toiled to fill their make up this pub favourite.
gardens with tightly-packed Garnaalkroketten Deep-fried
rows of top-class vegetables – croquettes, filled with shrimp.
beans, leeks, lettuces, carrots,
Speculoos These buttery, spicy
potatoes and onions. This
biscuits are available in festive
tradition may be waning, but Freshly made waffles on a street stall, a
shapes for Christmas.
the same quest for quality lives familiar sight in the city
Carbonnade flamande Beef is Waterzooî This classic stew Flamiche aux Poireaux Leeks,
cooked in Belgian beer, with a from Ghent consists of fish or fried in butter and whisked with
touch of sugar, to make this chicken and vegetables, cream and eggs, are baked in a
hearty casserole. poached in a creamy broth. crisp pastry shell.
Belgian Beer
Belgium makes more beers, in a greater mix of styles and
flavours, than any other country in the world. The Belgian
citizen drinks on average 100 litres (200 pints) a year, and
even small bars will stock at least 20 varieties. The nation’s
breweries produce over 400 different beers.
The cheerful peasants in Brueghel the Elder’s 16th-century
medieval village scenes would have been drinking beer from
their local brewery, many of which had been active since the
11th century, as every small town and community produced
its own beer. By 1900, there remained 3,000 private breweries
throughout Belgium. Today, more than 100 still operate, with
experts agreeing that even large industrial concerns produce
a fine quality beer.
Detail from The Wedding Dance by Pieter
Brueghel the Elder
Trappist Beers
The most revered of refreshments, Belgium’s Trappist beers have been
highly rated since the Middle Ages when monks began brewing them.
The drink originated in Roman times when Belgium was a province of
Chimay label with authentic Gaul, Gallia Belgica. Beer was a private domestic product
Trappist mark until the monasteries took over and introduced hops to
the process. Today’s production is still controlled solely by
the five Trappist monasteries, although the brewers are
mostly laymen. Trappist beers are characterized by their
rich, yeasty flavour. They are very strong, ranging from
6.2 to 11 per cent in alcohol content by volume. The most
celebrated of the 20 brands is Chimay, brewed at Belgium’s
largest monastic brewery in Hainaut. This delicate but
potent bottled beer has three different strengths, and is
Label for Westmalle best kept for many years before drinking. The strongest Chimay served in its
Trappist beer Trappist beer is Westvleteren, from Ypres. correct glass
Lambic Beers
Made for centuries in the Senne Valley around Brussels,
the unique family of lambic beers are made using yeasts
naturally present in the air to ferment the beer, rather
than being added separately to the water and grain
mix. Containers of unfermented wort (water, wheat and
barley) are left under a half-open roof in the brewery
and wild airborne yeasts, only present in
the atmosphere of this region of Belgium,
descend to ferment it. Unlike the sterility of
many breweries and officially exempt from
EU hygiene regulations, lambic cellars are
deliberately left dusty and uncleaned in
order for the necessary fungal activity to
thrive. Matured in untreated wooden casks
for up to five years, the lambic is deliciously
sour to drink, with a moderate strength of
5 per cent alcohol.
Young and old lambic beers are blended
together to produce the variant of gueuze.
A tiny bead, distinctive champagne mousse
and a toasty, slightly acid flavour, are its
main characteristics. Bars and restaurants
Lambic lay down their gueuze for up to two years Brewer sampling beer from the vat at a brewery
cherry beer before it is drunk. outside Brussels
Speciality Belgian Beers
Duvel Chimay Brugse Tripel De Verboden Vrucht Kwak
Speciality beers are common in Belgium, where the

huge variety of brands includes unusual tastes and
flavours. Fruit beers are a Brussels speciality but are
available throughout the country. The most popular,
kriek, is traditionally made with bitter cherries grown
in the Brussels suburb of Schaerbeek; picked
annually, these are added to the lambic and allowed
to macerate, or steep. The distinctive almond tang
comes from the cherry stone. Raspberries are also
used to make a framboise beer, or frambozen.
For a characterful amber ale, Kwak is good choice.
Strong beers are also popular; apart from the Trappist
beers, of which Chimay is a popular
variety, the pilseners De
Verboden Vrucht (meaning
“forbidden fruit”) and Duvel
(“devil”) are almost as strong
as red wine. Brugse Tripel, from
Bruges, is also popular. Even
Belgium’s best-sellers, Jupiler
Fruit beer mat of and Stella Artois, are good
Chapeau brewery quality beers. The façade of a beer emporium in Brussels
How to Drink Belgian Beer

Blanche Beers There are no snobbish distinctions made in Belgium
Belgium’s refreshing wheat between bottled and casked beer. Some of the most
beers are known as “blanche”, prestigious brews are served in bottles and, as with casks,
or white beers, because of the bottles are often laid down to mature. The choice of
cloudy sediment that forms drinking glass, however, is a vital part of the beer-drinking
when they ferment. Sour, ritual. Many beers
crisp and light, they are must be drunk in a
relatively low in alcohol at particular glass, which
5 per cent. Blanche is the barman will
produced in the western supply, ranging from
region of Hoegaarden, goblets to long thin
after which the best- drinking tubes. Beers
known blanche is named. are often served with
Many people now serve a complimentary
them with a slice of lemon snack; cream cheese
to add to the refreshing on rye bread and
taste, especially on warm radishes are a popular The traditional drinkers’ snack of fromage
Hoegaarden summer evenings. accompaniment. blanc on rye bread
Where to Eat and Drink

Le Cirio € Price Guide
Brussels Café Map 1 C2 Prices are based on a three-course meal
Rue de la Bourse 18–20, 1000 for one, including half a bottle of house
Lower Town Tel (02) 512 1395 wine, tax and service.
Arcadi € In the shadow of La Bourse, the € up to €50
Café Map 2 D2 interior of Le Cirio is a marvel of €€ €50 to 75
€€€ over €75
Rue d’Arenberg 1B, 1000 Art Nouveau ostentatiousness.
Tel (02) 511 3343 Simple dishes on offer include
Producing arguably the best pasta and waterzooî. Kafka €
quiches in a city that has some Café Map 1 C2
outstanding quiche-making Comocomo € Rue des Poissonniers 21
outlets, Arcadi is perhaps best Tapas Map 1 C2 Tel (02) 513 6631
known for the salmon and brocc- Rue Antoine Dansaert 19, 1000 Mellow, unpretentious spot, with
oli variety. Has great cakes too. Tel (02) 503 0330 an amazing range of vodkas,
Comocomo combines a Basque genevers (Dutch gin) and other
Bar Bik € tapas restaurant with a sushi spirits alongside coffee, beer and
Franco-Belgian Map 1 C1 bar-style conveyor belt. Pick out substantial portions of finger-food.
Quai aux Pierre de Taille 3, 1000 generously portioned pintxos as
Tel (02) 219 75 00 they slowly pass by. ‘t Kelderke €
Good-value food in an area that Belgian Map 2 D3
has become a trendy hot spot. Delirium € Grand Place 15, 1000
The menu has lots of seafood Bar Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 513 7344
and also offers a good range Impasse de La Fidélité 4A, 1000 In a vaulted 17th-century cellar
of vegetarian dishes. Tel (02) 514 4434 on the Grand Place, moules frites
Beautifully decorated, subterran- are served in their traditional,
Brasserie Horta € ean tourist magnet with over huge black pails at a fast and
Belgian Map 2 E2 2,000 types of beers to enjoy with furious pace.
Rue des Sables 20, 1000 a selection of meats or cheeses.
Tel (02) 217 7271 Closed dinner A la Mort Subite €
This brasserie doubles as the Gecko € Café Map 2 D2
caféteria in the lobby of the Café Map 1 C2 Rue Montagne aux Herbes
Comics Art Museum, and has the Place St Gery 16, 1000 Potagères 7, 1000
same opening hours, so is closed Tel (02) 502 2999 Tel (02) 513 1318
in the evenings. Its excellent Gecko combines a relaxed The cavernous former haunt of
Belgian cuisine at an affordable atmosphere with charming Brussels’ favourite son, Jacques
price is a great way to round off a service. Its reasonably priced Brel, and the origin of the Mort
museum visit, in a building that is menu offers hot sandwiches, Subite brand, A La Mort Subite is
a spectacular example of Art quiche, lasagne and waterzooi. an Art Deco wonder. Good salads,
Nouveau architecture. sandwiches and omelettes.
Le Greenwich €
Café Métropole € Café Map 1 C2 De Noordzee - La Mer du Nord €
Bar-Restaurant Map 2 D2 Rue des Chartreux 7, 1000 Seafood Map 1 C2
Place de Brouckère 31, 1000 Tel (02) 540 8878 Rue St Catherine 45
Tel (02) 214 2627 An Art Nouveau gem, Le Tel (02) 513 1192
Located at the Hotel Métropole, Greenwich was once a favourite Hugely popular fishbar selling
this slightly pricey café has a of René Magritte, and has delicious seafood, which you can
beautiful belle-époque interior retained its charm. A haunt of eat with a glass of white wine
and an enormous terrace. Open local chess-players, it’s a good at one of the stand-up tables on
daily until 1am. choice for a quiet beer. the square.
DK Choice
Nüetnigenough €
Belgian Map 1 C3
Rue du Lombard 25, 1000
Tel (02) 513 7884
A nuëtnigenough, in local
dialect, means a person who
can never have enough. This
brasserie is successful in
offering more than enough in
terms of food choice, quality,
prices and service. The focus is
on Belgian classics, modernized
and made using the freshest
seasonal produce. Daily specials
are written on the chalkboard,
and there is a list of 40
exemplary beers.
Well-stocked bar at the opulently decorated Café Métropole
Le Pain Quotidien €
Café Map 1 C2
Rue Antoine Dansaert 16A, 1000
Tel (02) 502 2361
Famed for its large communal
tables and the best croissants
and pain au chocolat in Brussels.
A great choice for its delicious
and inventive lunchtime salads.
Pin Pon €
Belgian Map 1 C5
Place du Jeu de Balle 62, 1000
Tel (02) 540 8999 Closed Mon–Tue
Located in a former fire station
overlooking the lively Jeu de
Balle, this smart but easy-going
restaurant offers modernized- Neatly arranged tables in Belga Queen
classic Belgian cuisine.
La Belle Maraîchère €€ Chez Léon €€
Plattesteen € Belgian Map 1 C2 Belgian Map 2 D2
Café Map 1 C3 Place Ste-Catherine 11, 1000 Rue des Bouchers 18, 1000
Rue du Marché au Charbon 41, 1000 Tel (02) 512 97 59 Closed Wed & Thu Tel (02) 511 1415
Tel (02) 512 8203 A fine restaurant which proves Founded in 1893, this place is
A chilled-out microcosm of the that good food does not have to a stalwart of traditional Belgian
trendiest area of the city centre, break the bank. Two set menus culinary standards. There are
with a decent menu offering offer terrific choice and value. several versions of the classic
Belgian classics, a good range of Warm, bistro-like atmosphere. moules et frites to choose from.
beers and a great atmosphere The children’s menu is excellent
during the day and at night. Big Mama €€ and free for children under 12.
International Map 1 C2
Le Roy d’Espagne € Place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés 41, Chez Patrick €€
Café Map 2 D3 1000 Belgian Map 2 D3
Grand Place 1, 1000 Tel (02) 513 3659 Rue des Chapeliers 6, 1000
Tel (02) 513 0807 Warm and cosy eatery, where Tel (02) 511 9815 Closed Sun & Mon
A drink on the Grand Place is an children are well catered for with Warm and inviting, Chéz Patrick is
essential part of any visit to their own menu. The four-course a great place for sampling
Brussels. Le Roy d’Espagne is one set menu, including an aperitif, traditional Belgian cuisine in a
of the best priced places with a changes often and is great value. relaxed setting. The hearty
huge two-tiered bar housed in lunchtime plats du jour are always
the bakers’ guild house. On the Bonsoir Clara €€ excellent value.
food menu are several appetizers, Modern European Map 1 C2
salads and Belgian dishes. Rue Antoine Dansaert 22, 1000 In ‘t Spinnekopke €€
Tel (02) 502 0990 Closed Sat & Sun: Belgian Map 1 B2
Den Teepot € lunch Place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1, 1000
Vegetarian Map 1 B2 One of the prettiest restaurants Tel (02) 511 8695 Closed Sun
Rue des Chartreux 66, 1000 in town, Clara is high on style Intimate, former 18th-century
Tel (02) 511 9402 Closed Sun and often bustling with the city’s coaching inn, “In the Spider’s
One of the best vegetarian fashionable crowd. Find a range Head” has a strong range of
options in the city located above of European favourites, including unusual local brews and
its sister health-food shop. Many many Mediterranean specials. food items that are cooked
of the dishes on its lunch-only in these brews.
menu feature beans and pulses. La Cantina €€
South American Map 1 C3 Jardin van Gogh €€
Het Warm Water € Rue du Jardin des Olives 13–15, 1000 Modern Belgian Map 1 C2
Café Map 1 C5 Tel (02) 513 4276 Closed Sun Place Ste-Catherine 5–7, 1000
Rue des Renards 25, 1000 Customers to La Cantina come Tel (02) 512 1831
Tel (02) 513 9159. Closed Mon–Wed for the feijoada, the rather heavy Located in an 18th-century house
A pleasant little Flemish café on Brazilian national dish of rice, once inhabited by Vincent van
the narrow Rue des Renards. red beans, pork, smoked bacon Gogh. The menu has good
A great spot to relax with some and spicy sausages. brasserie standards or, if you want
cake and a glass of gueuze. to push the boat out, some
Le Cap €€ sumptuous seafood platters..
Belga Queen €€ Belgian Map 1 C3
Belgian Map 2 D2 Place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés 28, La Kasbah €€
Rue Fossé aux Loups 32, 1000 1000 Moroccan Map 1 C2
Tel (02) 217 2187 Tel (02) 512 9342 Closed Sat, Sun Rue Antoine Dansaert 20, 1000
The chic Belga Queen is located lunch Tel (02) 502 4026
in the former Hôtel de la Poste, A popular local meeting place; Sample North African food in a
a cavernous belle-époque bank look out for the daily specials dark interior with ethnic decor.
with a magnificent glassed alongside a good selection of The attentive service and decent
ceiling. Try the special beer and Old and New World wines, all Moroccan wines ensure that it is
tasting menu. at decent prices. always busy, but still intimate.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 145
marine-themed tiled murals.

There are prime cuts of meat in
addition to the fishy specialities.
Alexandre €€€
French Map 1 C4
Rue du Midi 164, 1000
Tel (02) 502 40 55 Closed Sat lunch,
Sun & Mon
Savour superbly inventive
seasonal French cuisine in a
refined atmosphere. Though
expensive, the three-course set
menu is excellent value. There are
only a few tables, so reserve well
in advance.
Aux Armes de Bruxelles €€€

Contemporary interiors of Strofilia Seafood Map 2 D2
Rue des Bouchers 13, 1000
La Manufacture €€ La Rose Blanche €€ Tel (02) 511 5550
French Map 1 B2 Belgian Map 2 D3 Aux Armes de Bruxelles was a
Rue Notre-Dame du Sommeil 12, 1000 Grand Place 11, 1000 favourite haunt of Brussels’ most
Tel (02) 502 2525 Closed Sat lunch, Tel (02) 513 6479 famous chanteur, Jacques Brel.
Sun Founded in 1905, this authentic The fish and seafood dishes are
Formerly a printer’s workshop brasserie on the Grand Place exeptional, and there are some
and leather factory, this is now serves delicious traditional good-value set menus too.
a very 21st-century dining Belgian dishes, with many of the
establishment complete with specialities cooked in beer –
polished wood and iron pillars. try the duck cooked in kriek. DK Choice
Comme Chez Soi €€€
Mappa Mundo €€ La Roue d’Or €€ Fine Dining Map 1 C4
Café Map 1 C2 Belgian Map 2 D3 Place Rouppe 23, 1000
Rue du Pont de la Carpe 2–6, 1000 Rue des Chapeliers 26, 1000 Tel (02) 512 2921 Closed Sun &
Tel (02) 514 3555 Tel (02) 514 2554 Mon; Tue & Wed lunch
This Latin-flavoured hang-out is This traditional brasserie is where Possibly the city’s best
arguably the best café, with the Brussels’ top chefs go when they restaurant, Comme Chez Soi is
best terrace, in St Géry. It has its want to eat the best local cuisine. run by Chef Lionel Rigolet and
bars spread over three floors and The interior mixes belle époque boasts two Michelin stars. It
the seating booths are actually style with Magritte-inspired features a mahogany bar, a
old wooden train seats. murals to achieve a warm, bookcase and over-stuffed
cosy atmosphere. leather couches in the lounge
La Marée €€ area. Absolutely delicious food,
Seafood Map 1 B1 Strofilia €€ but the menu changes often,
Rue de Flandre 99, 1000 Greek Map 1 C1 though seafood usually features.
Tel (02) 511 0040 Closed Mon Rue du Marché aux Porcs 11–13, 1000 The dessert trilogy is unmissable.
Nautical-themed décor provides Tel (02) 512 3293 Closed Sun Book well in advance.
the perfect backdrop to one of The Mediterranean classics here
Brussels’ hidden gems: a top- are given a gastronomic twist.
notch fish restaurant run by the Choose to sit in the colourful, L’Idiot du Village €€€
same Portuguese-born owners modern restaurant, the timbered Modern European Map 1 C4
for more than 30 years. dining hall or the atmospheric, Rue Notre-Seigneur 19, 1000
brick-vaulted cellar bar. Tel (02) 502 5582 Closed Sat
O Bifanas €€ & Sun
Portuguese Map 2 D2 Taverne du Passage €€ “The Village Idiot”- a favoured
Rue des Dominicains 30, 1000 Belgian Map 2 D3 establishment of the Belgian
Tel (02) 502 2548 Closed Sun Galerie de la Reine 30, 1000 royalty – has fabulously quirky
The good-value O Bifanas serves Tel (02) 512 3731 Closed Mon decor and inventive, idiosyncratic
the cheerful cuisine of the city’s The Taverne du Passage is a dishes too - try the escalope of
large Portuguese community. Brussels institution. Sit back hot foie gras, pepper and vanilla.
Fish is the order of the day; above within its Art Deco splendour
all, the bacalhau (salt cod). and enjoy tasty Belgian
specialities such as croquettes
Le Paon Royal €€ aux crevettes and tête de veau
Belgian Map 1 C2 en tortue.
Rue du Vieux Marché-aux-grains 6,
1000 Vincent €€
Tel (02) 513 0868 Seafood Map 2 D2
Enjoy scrumptious traditional Rue des Dominicains 8–10, 1000
Belgian cuisine in a 17th-century Tel (02) 511 2607 Closed Tue, Jan
house. Loyal customers roll in 1–15 & Aug 1–15
especially for the veal and the Wonderfully traditional interior, Bouillabaisse (fish stew) served in a bowl
superb beer list. with dark wood and huge at an eatery in Brussels
Les Larmes du Tigre € L’Esprit de Sel Brasserie €€

DK Choice Thai Map 1 C5 Belgian Map 3 B4
L’Ogenblik €€€ Rue de Wynants 21, 1000 Place Jourdan 52–54, 1000
French Map 2 D2 Tel (02) 512 1877 Closed Mon Tel (02) 230 6040
Galeries des Princes 1, 1000 & Sat The beef on offer here, stewed
Tel (02) 511 6151 Closed Sun One of the city’s best Asian in Belgian beer, is perfectly
Just off the Grand Place, with a restaurants. The peaceful, elegant complemented by the soft wood
few outdoor but undercover ambience is in marked contrast and velvet decor. Pair the meal
tables in the elegant Galerie des to the intensity and variety of with one of the many beers or
Princes arcade, this bustling flavours found in the dishes. wines on the menu.
Parisian-style bistro with a
relaxed ambience is a gastro- Restobieres € Havana €€
nomic wonder. Dishes such as Belgian Map 1 C5 Cuban Map 1 C5
salmon and crayfish cake, or Rue des Renards 9 Rue de l’Epée 4, 1000
carpaccio of scallops stand out. Tel (02) 511 5583 Tel (02) 502 1224 Closed Sun–Wed
Good set menus, lovely desserts. When even the vinaigrette for For dinner and dancing with a
the Abbey cheese salad is made Latin flavour, take the outside lift
from beer, you know you’re in for a that descends from Avenue
Sea Grill €€€ true Belgian culinary experience. Louise to Marolles and head to
Seafood Map 2 D2 Well worth a visit for its warm Havana, one of the city’s more
Rue Fosse aux Loups 47, 1000 atmosphere and remarkable colourful establishments.
Tel (02) 212 0800 Closed Sat lunch, range of dishes cooked in
Sun Belgium’s favourite tipple. JB €€
Located at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Franco-Belgian Map 2 D5
a superb two Michelin-starred Tutto Bene € Rue du Grand Cerf 24, 1000
fish restaurant with good-value Italian Map 2 D4 Tel (02) 512 04 84 Closed Sat lunch,
set menus, particularly at Rue Joseph Stevens 28, 1000 Sun, Mon lunch, Aug
lunchtime. Great wine list too. Tel (02) 512 4095 Closed Tue Given the food, the value for
& Wed money is outsanding. Small,
Vismet €€€ In a rustic interior, accompanied intimate space, with an open
Seafood Map 1 C2 with contemporary music and kitchen provides a nice touch.
Place Sainte-Catherine 23, 1000 jazz, a friendly Italian family
Tel (02) 218 8545 Closed Sun & serves a regularly changing Lola €€
Mon, Aug menu of simple Italian staples. Fusion Map 2 D4
Vismet boasts a big open kitchen Place du Grand Sablon 33, 1000
in which fine seafood, and much L’Atelier Europeen €€ Tel (02) 514 2460
more, is prepared. Popular with Franco-Belgian Map 3 C2 A contemporary setting where
both locals and travellers, so Rue Franklin 28, 1000 diners can expect to find only
reserve well in advance. Tel (02) 734 9140 Closed Sat & Sun the best seasonal ingredients
This legendary eatery boasts on a changing menu of healthy,
large dining rooms and serves light fusion dishes.
Upper Town Belgian-inflected French cuisine.
Bier Circus € Closed at weekends except by Orphyse Chaussette €€
Belgian Map 2 D3 prior group reservation. Belgian Map 2 D4
Rue de l’Enseignement 57, 1000 Rue Charles Hanssens, 5, 1000
Tel (02) 218 0034 Closed Sun & Mon Le Cap Sablon €€ Tel (02) 502 7581 Closed Sun
While it serves wholesome Belgian Map 3 D4 & Mon
Belgian dishes, the real draw is Rue Lebeau 75, 1000 The chef at Orphyse Chaussette
the beer menu, one of the most Tel (02) 512 0170 uses only seasonal, regional
extensive in the country. A cosy bistro just off the Grand produce, although the menu
Sablon, serving imaginative always carries the Chaussette’s
Comics Café € Franco-Belgian cuisine at a most popular dish – the red tuna
Belgian Map 2 D4 reasonable price. tartare. Good wine list.
Place du Grand Sablon 8, 1000
Tel (02) 513 1323 Closed Mon & Tue Les Petits Oignons €€
A bande dessinée-themed Franco-Belgian Map 2 D4
restaurant on the Sablon serving Rue de la Régence 25, 1000
Belgo-American cuisine, where Tel (02) 511 7615
burgers and bagels rub shoulders The family-friendly Les Petits
on the menu with carbonnade Oignons offers up French and
and chicon au gratin (braised Belgian brasserie-style cuisine.
Witloof chicory). The fried goose liver with
caramelized onions is a must-try.
L’Entree des Artistes €
Franco-Belgian Map 2 D4 Au Vieux Saint-Martin €€
Place du Grand Sablon 42, 1000 Modern European Map 2 D4
Tel (02) 502 3161 Place du Grand Sablon 38, 1000
Good selection of classic dishes, Tel (02) 512 6476
including a fine house steak tar- A great modernist eatery on the
tare and chicons au gratin. A great Sablon serving delicious Euro
option for late night snacks, as fare. Also serves as a gallery for
they stay open till midnight. Classy decor at L’Entree des Artistes, contemporary painters, a number
a Franco-Belgian eatery of whose works hang on the walls.
Mille-et-une Nuits €
North African
Rue de Moscou 7, 1060 Saint-Gilles
Tel (02) 537 4127 Closed Mon &
Lunchtimes
This gem – decorated to give the
impression of the inside of a
Bedouin tent – lies hidden away
in bohemian St Gilles. Delicious
North African food at reasonable
prices. The service is cordial.
Musical Instruments
Museum Restaurant €
Belgian Map 2 E4
Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000
Diners at L’Ultime Atome in Greater Brussels Tel 02) 502 9508 Closed Mon, dinner
Located on the top floor of the
Wine Bar Sablon €€ WY €€€ museum, this restaurant affords
French Map 1 C5 Modern European superb views of the city. The
Rue Haute 198, 1000 Bodenbroekstraat 22–24, 1000 daytime-only menu offers Belgian
Tel 0496 820105 Closed Mon–Wed Tel (02) 400 42 63 cuisine and a Sunday brunch that
Great food in a more relaxed, Contemporary, inventive Michelin- is famed throughout the city.
less formal atmosphere than starred food in a chic, spacious
many places in Brussels. Offers setting. On offer are superb Le Rubis €
a bistro menu which changes steaks and seafood, as well as a Cambodian Map 4 E4
regularly. wide range of champagnes and Av de Tervueren 22, 1040 Etterbeek
wines from its excellent bar. Tel (02) 733 05 49 Closed Sat & Sun
L’Ecailler du Palais Royal €€€ Quite simply, a real find. An eye-
Seafood Map 2 D4 catching collection of Khmer art,
Rue Bodenbroek 18, 1000 Greater Brussels sets the scene for lightly spiced,
Tel (02) 512 8751 Closed Aug La Buvette € aromatic Cambodian dishes.
L’Ecailler du Palais Royal is housed Wine Bar
in a 17th-century mansion. Chaussée d’Alsemberg 108, 1060 La Terrasse €
The menu is dominated by fish Saint-Gilles Belgian/International Map 4 E4
and seafood dishes. It is Tel (02) 534 1303 Closed Sun & Mon Av des Celtes 1, 1040
particularly strong on the range Opposite Café des Spores (below) Tel (02) 732 2851
and quality of its oysters. lies its twin wine bar, La Buvette. A lovely old brasserie, where
The focus here is on the quality European Union journalists, MEPs
L’Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles €€€ wine list, but the rustic dishes on and Commission fonctionnaires
Belgian Map 2 D4 offer are more than generous. sit cheek by jowl while munching
Rue de Rollebeek 7, 1000 on huge plates of steak americain
Tel (02) 512 5857 Closed Tue Café Belga € and sipping delicious beers.
The old establishment of Café
L’Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles has Place Flagey 18, 1050 Ixelles Tout Près Tout Prêt €
something of a venerable Tel (02) 640 3508 Sandwiches
literary pedigree: La Tribune Located in an Art Deco building Chaussée de Boondael 413, 1050
Poétique once held their comple, with a bohemian feel. Tel (02) 640 8080 Closed Sun
meetings here. The eatery Serves a decent range of light Between the twin universities
specializes in traditional, beer- meals alongside great coffee. Université Libre de Bruxelles and
soaked Belgian cuisine. Vrije Universiteit Brussel, this
Café des Spores € cheap, no-frills sandwich bar
Kwint €€€ Belgian offers quick, inventive snacks
Belgian Map 2 D3 Chaussée d’Alsemberg 103, 1060 to a largely student crowd.
Mont des Arts 1, 1000 Saint-Gilles
Tel (02) 505 9595 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 534 13 03 Closed Sun L’Ultime Atome €
lunch With the entire cuisine based Belgian
Designed by leading Belgian around different kinds of Rue St Boniface 14, 1050 Ixelles
conceptual artist Arne Quinze, mushrooms, including unique Tel (02) 513 48 84
the dazzling Kwint serves food desserts, Café des Spores is an This cavernous, bustling and
with delicious flavours added excellent and quirky dining option. noisy brasserie has a good range
to traditional Belgian cuisine. Also has an exciting wine list. of vegetarian options, and serves
fantastic crêpes for breakfast.
Senza Nome €€€ La Fin de Siècle €
Italian Belgian Brasserie Georges €€
Place du Petit Sablon 1, 1000 Rue des Chartreux 9, 1000 French
Tel (02) 223 1617 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 512 5123 Closed Sun Av Churchill 259, 1180
Michelin-starred traditional Italian Located in a side street near Tel (02) 347 2100
food with a contemporary twist the Bourse, this cosy Belgian Gorgeous Parisian-style seafood
and good wines. The aglio e olio restaurant in a 19th-century brasserie with numerous waiters
with squid ink pasta is a marvel building offers generous portions in floor-length aprons and a
of simplicity and the dégustation of traditional dishes. Friendly conspicuous shellfish stall at
menus a wonderful treat. service and lovely atmosphere. the front doors.
Brasserie La Paix €€ starred place packs a powerful star at his last restaurant, Bistrot
Belgian gastronomic punch. Try the du Mail. Here, minimalist decor
Rue Ropsy Chaudron 49, 1070 house pigeon – delicious and and his outstanding French
Tel (02) 523 09 58 Closed Sat & Sun remarkably good value as well. gastronomic cuisine make for an
A family-run eatery that has been exquisite dining experience.
serving up Belgian classics for Relais St-Job €€
more than three decades. Terrific Belgian Bruneau €€
food with something for all Place Saint-Job 1, 1180 Modern European
tastes and budgets – despite the Tel (02) 375 5724 Av Broustin 73, 1083
Michelin star. Far from the bustle of the city, sit Tel (02) 421 70 70 Closed Tue & Wed
on the roof of the Relais in good With a choice of set menus (three
Café Maris €€ weather, and enjoy chilled rosé or five courses), there is some-
Seafood and dishes such as knuckle of thing for everyone – at a price, of
Chaussée de Waterloo 1260, 1180 ham and creamy mustard sauce. course – at this creative, Michelin-
Tel (02) 374 8834 Closed Mon starred restaurant.
(excepting pub hols) Touareg €€
This splendid Parisian-style Moroccan Le Chalet de la Forêt €€€
brasserie, complete with an Art Av Jean et Pierre Carsoel 13, 1180 Fine Dining
Deco interior and a warm Uccle Drève de Lorraine 43, 1180
atmosphere, has a strong Tel (02) 534 5400 Closed Sun lunch Tel (02) 374 5416 Closed Sat
following. Fish and seafood A traditional Moroccan mix of & Sun
dishes are the order of the day. Berber, Arab and Andalusian With two Michelin stars, Le
cuisines is made using only the Chalet de la Forêt serves first-
La Canne en Ville €€ most authentic ingredients and class food with the best seasonal
French following traditional recipes. and local ingredients. The
Rue de la Réforme 22, 1050 Ixelles superb fish is a hallmark,
Tel (02) 347 2926 Closed Sat lunch, Le Variétés €€ alongside the brilliant wine list.
Sun Belgian
In a former butcher’s shop on a Place Ste-Croix 4, 1050 Ixelles En Face de Parachute €€€
quiet corner of Ixelles, this laid- Tel (02) 647 0436 French
back restaurant effortlessly serves Located in a magnificent Art Chaussée de Waterloo 578, 1050 Ixelles
up excellent French classics. It’s Deco building, Le Variétés has Tel (02) 346 4741 Closed Sun & Mon
worth booking ahead, as it’s splendidly re-created a 1930s This Corsican-Marseillaise fusion
very popular with a food-savvy brasserie. The beef tartare is establishment has a chalkboard
local clientele. particularly good. menu that changes daily
and includes vegetarian
Le Fils de Jules €€ Bon-Bon €€€ options. Cosy ambience
Basque Fine Dining and relaxed service.
Rue du Page 35, 1050 Ixelles Av de Tervueren 453, 1150
Tel (02) 534 0057 Closed lunch, Tel (02) 346 66 15 Closed Sat & Sun Kamo €€€
Sun With two Michelin stars, Bon-Bon Japanese
Art-Deco Basque bistro popular serves visually stunning, complex Chaussée de Waterloo 550a, 1050
for its tartare of tuna, spicy dishes in a series of multi-course, Ixelles
squid and the rest of the menu’s gastronomic tasting menus. Tel (02) 648 7848 Closed Sat
resolutely Basque repertoire. Fabulous wine pairings too. & Sun
Probably Belgium’s best
Les Fils à Papa €€ Bouchéry €€€ Japanese restaurant, with
French Modern European a Michelin star. Sit at the
Chaussée de Waterloo 1484, 1180 Chaussée d’Alsemberg 812a, 1180 bar and watch the chefs in
Uccle Tel (02) 332 3774 Closed lunch, Sun action in the open kitchen.
Tel (02) 374 4144 Closed Sat & Sun: Chef Damian Bouchéry has A small space, so reservations
lunch already been awarded a Michelin are highly recommended.
It is worth the 15-minute drive
from the city centre to Uccle to
dine at this charming old house
with a delightful terrace serving
top French food..
Le Loup Voyant €€
International
Av de la Couronne 562, 1050 Ixelles
Tel (02) 640 02 08
This restaurant in the student area
offers a wide variety of Belgian
favourites as well as a good
selection of Italian pasta dishes.
Le Pigeon Noir €€
French
Rue Geleytsbeek 2, 1180 Uccle
Tel (02) 375 2374 Closed Sat & Sun
It might have the ambience of a
country bistro, but this Michelin- Outdoor tables on the charming terrace of Bouchéry
cooked in beer - and a beer

menu of more than 400 fine
Belgian ales.
Den Huzaar €
International
Vlamingstraat 36, 8000
Tel (050) 33 3797 Closed Wed & Thu
Hearty old-school Flemish
cooking, but with a touch
of class and a dash of
inventiveness, making this
centrally located bistro a
favourite among both locals
and visitors..
Lotus €
Wood-beamed interior of Café Vlissinghe, Bruges Vegetarian Map B3
Wapenmakersstraat 5, 8000
Le Monde est Petit €€€ La Truffe Noire €€€ Tel (050) 33 1078 Closed dinner; Sat
Fine Dining Fine Dining & Sun
Rue des Bataves 65, 1040 Etterbeek Blvd de la Cambre 12, 1050 Ixelles There are usually just two options
Tel (02) 732 4434 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 640 4422 Closed Sat lunch on the menu at this vegetarian
Classically-minded cooking with & Sun café. These are served in three
an emphasis on the freshest Extravagant, with one Michelin sizes but lunch – the only meal
seasonal ingredients has earned star and prices to match. The served – is hearty no matter
this unpretentious Etterbeek menu might include such items what size chosen.
restaurant a Michelin star. as a Périgord truffle cooked in a
Porto jus, or warm duck foie gras De Refter €
Le Passage €€€ with honey-roasted carrots. Belgian Map B3
Belgian Molenmeers 2, 8000
Avenue Jean en Pierre Carsoel 17, Tel (050) 44 4900 Closed Sun & Mon
1180 Uccle Stepping down from the heady
Tel (02) 374 6694 Closed Sat lunch & Bruges heights of running 3-Michelin
Sun star De Karmeliet, Bruges super-
Serves simple yet exquisite Bhavani € chef Geert Van Hecke has gone
Michelin-starred food in a bright Indian Map A4 back to basics. At this bistro,
setting. Great set menus, both Simon Stevinplein 5, 8000 traditional Flemish cooking is the
extravagant (in the evening) Tel (050) 33 9025 Closed Wed order of the day - though
and accessible (at lunchtime). Excellent, welcoming eatery that inevitably it’s served up with
serves a wide range of Indian considerable panache.
dishes, of which the Kashmiri
DK Choice rogan josh (a signature aromatic De Republiek €
La Quincaillerie €€€ lamb dish) is one of its best. Café Map A3
Belgian St Jacobsstraat 36, 8000
Rue du Page 45, 1050 Ixelles Café Craenenburg € Tel (050) 34 0229
Tel (02) 533 9833 Closed Sun Café Map A3 A medium-sized café, popular
lunch, first 3 weeks Aug Markt 16, 8000 with students and artists who
This visually stunning Tel (050) 33 3402 drink in the courtyard at night.
restaurant, housed in a former Situated in the north-west of It is also part of a cinema and
hardware store from the 1900s; Grote Markt, this bar is a little theatre complex.
serves excellent steaks and the away from the more tourist-
seafood counter, with its heavy bars. The limited menu Brasserie Erasmus €€
fantastic selection of oysters, is includes pasta dishes, salads Belgian Map B3
one of the best in Brussels. While and sandwiches. Wollestraat 35, 8000
it’s not available Friday and Tel (050) 33 5781
Saturday evenings, the “Saveur” Café Vlissinghe € Found in the centrally located
set menu is a steal. They have Café Map B2 hotel of the same name, every
their own house ale, and good Blekersstraat 2, 8000 single dish on the menu here
international wines too. Tel (050) 34 3737 Closed Mon & Tue is made with beer. Try the
The genuinely medieval rabbit in beer sauce or the
Vlissinghe dates back to 1515 fish waterzooî.
Rouge Tomate €€€ and is the city’s oldest hostelery.
Modern European The interior is an historical Cafédraal €€
Av Louise 190, 1050 marvel and there is also a Belgian Map A4
Tel (02) 647 70 44 Closed Sat lunch & beautiful beer garden. Zilverstraat 38, 8000
Sun Tel (050) 34 0845 Closed Sun
Though it may not be the place Cambrinus € One of the most attractive
for a hearty stew, Rouge Tomate Belgian Map B3 restaurants in Bruges. Its
always satisfies with its except- Philipstockstraat 19, 800 medieval setting is a delight and
ionally delicious food. The quality Tel (050) 33 2328 provides a highly atmospheric
of produce and the seasonal A lively brasserie offering robust backdrop to the inventive dishes
menu is a matter of pride. Flemish cuisine - much of it based around meat and shellfish.
De Stove €€ rustic setting, with four separate some local touches. The seafood
Belgian Map A3 dining rooms, enhances the pancake is recommended, but
Kleine Sint-Amandsstraat 4, 8000 unique atmosphere. their best item is the paella. Wash
Tel (050) 33 7835 Closed Mon–Sat it down with Spanish wines.
lunch , Wed & Thu dinner
The foie gras at this restaurant is DK Choice Brasserie Pakhuis €€
exceptional, but do also try the De Frietketel € Belgian Map E2
fresh North Sea fish, supplied Fries Map D2 Schuurkenstraat 4, 9000
daily – particularly the breaded Papegaaistraat 89, 9000 Tel (09) 223 5555 Closed Sun
cod in butter sauce. Intimate Tel (09) 329 4022 Closed Sat & An ultra-hip renovated 19th-
spot, with just a few tables. Sun lunch century warehouse. Sit on oak
Widely regarded as serving and marble tables amongst
Duc de Bourgogne €€€ the very best fries in all of exposed giant cast-iron pillars.
Seafood Map B3 Belgium, this chip shop is a The menu features seafood
Huidenvettersplein 12, 8000 Ghent legend, and the queues platters and Flemish favourites.
Tel (050) 33 2038 outside at busy times speak
Overlooking a canal in the historic for themselves. There are Coeur d’Artichaut €€
centre, the Duc is always busy, so burgers too, including a great Fusion Map E2
make a reservation. The delicious vegetarian variety. If the place Koreniei 6, 9000
bouillabaisse made with local sea is full, just grab some fries and Tel (09) 225 3318 Closed Sun eve
fish is the house speciality. the excellent gravy, and eat Prepares a monthly changing
them on the go. A must for menu that features classic
Den Dyver €€€ anyone visiting Ghent. European dishes made with a
Belgian Map B4 twist, in addition to inventive
Dijver 5, 8000 Asian selections. Great location
Tel (050) 33 6069 Groot Vleeshuis € in an impressive mansion.
This stylish restaurant makes Belgian Map E1
creative use of local produce and Groentenmarkt 7, 9000 Keizershof €€
Belgian beers in its dishes. Three-, Tel (09) 233 2324 Closed Mon Belgian
four- or five-course set menus are This medieval butcher’s hall Vrijdagmarkt 47, 9000
available in addition to a makes a spectacular setting for Tel (09) 223 4446 Closed Sun &
sophisticated à la carte selection. a meaty lunchtime sandwich or Mon
even meatier tourist “formule”. Located in a narrow 17th-century
The gentse waterzooî (chicken building on the market square,
DK Choice stew) is particularly great. Keizershof serves well-priced
Den Gouden Harynck €€€ Belgian staples and salads.
Seafood Map B4 Kapittelhuis € Paintings by local artists decorate
Groeninge 25, 8000 International Map F2 the walls.
Tel (050) 33 7637 Closed Sun Lange Kruisstraat 4, 9000
& Mon Tel (09) 336 8519 Closed Sun Nestor €€
Chef Philippe Serruys and his This restaurant offers a wide Belgian Map E1
wife run this restaurant located choice of dishes, ranging from Kraanlei 17, 9000
in a 17th-century building in steaks to pasta. The adjoining Tel (09) 225 1880 Closed Sun
the museum district. The tea room serves great waffles One of the city’s best mid-
restaurant is very attuned to the and pancakes. Good choice range bistros, with a friendly
seasonal, and the menu doesn’t for families. atmosphere and a dark, modern
always stays the same, but the decor. Specialities on the menu
sea bass with coarse sea salt Tapasbar La Malcontenta € include charcoal-grilled meat
and rosemary is a must-try. Spanish Map E1 and fish dishes.
Haringsteeg 7–9, 9000
Tel (09) 224 1801 Closed Mon Georges IV €€€
De Visscherie €€€ Spanish eatery that serves Seafood Map E2
Seafood Map B3 specialities from the Canary Donkersteeg 23–27, 9000
Vismarkt 8, 8000 Isles and Latin America, with Tel (09) 225 1918 Closed Mon & Tue
Tel (050) 33 0212 Closed Tue A Ghent institution, this family
Overlooking the centuries-old business is one of the city’s
Vismarkt (fish market). Any of pricier restaurants but offers
the turbot variations served here superior, wonderful food. The
are a must-try. Popular among oysters, crab and mussels of
locals, so book ahead. Lélande are the main attractions.
Horseele €€€
French
Ghent Ottergemsesteenweg-Zuid 808, 9000
Tel (09) 330 23 20 Closed Sat lunch,
Chez Liontine € Sun & Mon
Belgian Map E1 A Michelin-starred eatery in a
Groentenmarkt 10–11, 9000 highly unusual location (Ghent’s
Tel (09) 225 0680 Closed Mon–Wed football stadium) offering
A friendly little restaurant in fantastic food with multiple
which diners can savour fresh amazingly inventive set menus to
Flemish specialities, some of The dining area of Groot Vleeshuis, or great choose from. Closed on days
which are made with beer. The butchers’ hall when there is a match.
Jan van den Bon €€€ steaks – at affordable prices. Mie Katoen €
Fusion Map E5 Comes complete with its own Fondue Map K1
Koning Leopold II-laan 43, 9000 absinthe bar. Koolkaai 9, 2000
Tel (09) 221 9085 Closed Sat for Tel (03) 231 1309 Closed Tue & Wed
Lunch, Sun & Mon Ciro’s € Popular little fondue house
Outstanding Michelin-starred Belgian located on a farm in central
food featuring all sorts of Amerikalei 6, 2000 Antwerp. Choose one of the
flavours from around the world. Tel (03) 238 1147 Closed Mon & Jul traditional fondues or try
Offers both tasting and à la The best steaks and gorgeous something different – the
carte menus. Outstanding hand-cut chips in Antwerp are Japanese fondue served with
quality guaranteed. served at Ciro’s, which was last tempura, for instance.
redecorated in 1962. The place is
Valentijn €€€ best defined as “rough and ready”, Hippodroom €€
French Map E1 but that’s how the regulars like it. Franco-Belgian Map J3
Rodekoningstraat 1, 9000 Leopold De Waelplaats 10, 2000
Tel (09) 225 0429 Closed Sun Fong Mei € Tel (03) 248 5252 Closed Sun & Mon
evening, Thu, Mon-Sat for Lunch. Chinese The early 20th-century building
A favourite with the city’s locals, Van Arteveldestraat 65–67, 2060 that houses Hippodroom is also
who come especially for the Tel (03) 225 0654 home to an enviable collection
great-value four-course menu. Offers very good, outstanding of art and photography. The
The restaurant prides itself on value Chinese food in a cuisine here is as modern as its
using only the freshest ingredients. city where dining is seldom contemporary fittings.
cheap. Does an excellent
Volta €€€ dim sum menu. which contains Huis de Colvenier €€
Seafood Map E1 several vegetarian dim sums French Map K2
Nieuwe Wandeling 2b, 9000 to choose from. Sint Antoniusstraat 8, 2000
Tel (09) 324 0500 Closed Sun & Mon Tel (0477) 232650
This über cool converted turbine De Foyer € This is one of Antwerp’s most
hall just outside the centre is Belgian Map L2 respected restaurants, so
home to one of Ghent’s finest Komedieplaats 18, 2000 booking ahead is a must. Enjoy
new restaurants, with a superb Tel (03) 233 5517 the warm welcome, choose from
menu of highly imaginative fish Opulent space in the foyer of a menus of 3 up to 7 courses of
and seafood dishes. 19th-century theatre. Red velvet first-rate French cooking, sit back,
drapes and marble columns add and let the culinary fun begin.
to the sumptuous feel. The prices,
DK Choice however, are reasonable. InVINcible €€
Vrijmoed €€€ Seafood Map K2
Belgian Map F2 De Groote Witte Arend € Haarstraat 9, 2000
Vlaanderenstraat 22, 9000 Belgian Tel (03) 231 3207 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel (09) 279 9977 Closed Sat & Reyndersstraat 18, 2000 Many of the items on the
Sun, Mon lunch Tel (03) 233 5033 menu here are based on that
Terrific-value set menus are Located in a fine building dating morning’s catch from the North
the main draws at this from the 15th century. There is Sea, and the open kitchen
contemporary Michelin-starred nothing fancy about the food allows diners to watch the
eatery, popular with Ghent’s here, but diners are guaranteed chefs at work.
youth. The offerings include a good, hearty Flemish fare.
decent range of vegetarian ‘t Karveel €€
dishes, which is quite unusual Het Kathedraal € Café
in this town. Café Map K2 Vlaamse Kaai 11, 2000
Torfbrug 10, 2000 Tel (03) 237 3623 Closed Mon
Tel (03) 289 3466 This themed bar is styled on
Het Kathedraal is a mandatory pit a 16th-century ship and
stop when wandering through includes portholes, ropes,
Antwerp the centre of town. This café’s barrels, rigging and cannons
decor is kitschy yet great fun. in its decor. The beer can be
Amadeus € Offers a good value three-course ordered at the rudder. Bar food
Belgian set lunch. is available.
Sint-Paulusplaats 20, 2000
Tel 0493 093329
Former glass factory that is now
a haven for fans of spare ribs. The
Art Nouveau interior, with glass-
work and wooden carvings, along
with the food, helps create a
traditional brasserie atmosphere.
Brasserie Appelmans €
French Map K2
Papenstraatje 1
Tel (03) 226 2022
Excellent brasserie fare – big
salads, pastas, juicy burgers and
very superior, locally grass-fed Minimalistic decor at Vrijmoed, an upscale Belgian restaurant in Ghent
The elegant dining area of Le Zoute Zoen in Antwerp with crystal chandeliers and dark wood furniture
De Kleine Zavel €€ quite wonderful Art Nouveau

Seafood Map K2 building. The wine list is one of DK Choice
Stoofstraat 2, 2000 the city’s best. A grand dining Kommilfoo €€€
Tel (03) 231 9691 Closed Mon & Tue experience in every way. Franco-Belgian
An affordable inventive menu Vlaamsekaai 17, 2000
paired with delicious wines L’Epicerie du Cirque €€€ Tel (03) 237 3000 Closed Sun &
has made this place popular Franco-Belgian Map K3 Mon
with both travellers and locals. Volkstraat 23, 2000 Even in a city as famed for eating
Specialities include a dish with Tel (03) 238 0571 Closed Sun & Mon out as Antwerp, the Michelin-
seven preparations of tuna. Sample excellent old-school starred Kommilfoo still stands
Franco-Belgian food in modern out. The four-course set menu
Lam & Yin €€ bistro-like surroundings. The is, at €65, an absolute bargain –
Chinese Map K2 space is not very big, but is though is only available on week-
Reyndersstraat 17, 2000 charming and warm. days. The decor is plain, to keep
Tel (03) 232 8838 Reservations advised. the diner’s attention on the food.
An upmarket Michelin-starred The à la carte menu changes
Chinese restaurant which is very ‘t Fornuis €€€ almost daily, and the wine list is
popular with locals – so make Fine Dining Map K2 as impressive as the food.
sure to reserve a table in Reyndersstraat 24, 2000
advance. The duck dishes are Tel (03) 233 6270 Closed Sat
particularly good. & Sun Het Pomphuis €€€
Expect Michelin-starred Fusion
Pazzo €€ excellence from chef Johan Droogdok, Siberiastraat 7, 2030
Wine Bar Segers, who often visits the Tel (03) 770 8625
Oudeleeuwenrui 12, 2000 tables to present his food A Pacific Rim bistro that taps into
Tel (03) 232 8682 Closed Sat & Sun to diners. Every dish at this the mood for industrial resto-bar
This wine bar in an old warehouse formal restaurant is a conversions; much of this former
offers wines by the glass. Each gourmet extravaganza. pumphouse’s hydraulic machinery
type of wine is intended to remains in a huge, dramatic space.
match the various tapenades, Het Gebaar €€€ A great wine list accompanies
stir-fries, tempuras and risottos Modern European Map L2 the superlative fusion cuisine.
on offer. Leopoldstraat 24, 2000
Tel (03) 232 3710 Closed Sun & Mon Rooden Hoed €€€
Le Zoute Zoen €€ A Michelin-starred, well-priced, Seafood
French Map K1 good-value (although hardly Oude Koornmarkt 25, 2000
Zirkstraat 17, 2000 cheap) contemporary Tel (03) 289 0909 Closed Mon
Tel (03) 226 9220 Closed Sat restaurant that is one of Roger The oldest restaurant in Antwerp,
lunch & Mon van Damme’s creations. Its dating to around 1750, this is also
A gorgeous restaurant offering location in the Botanical one of the city’s most renowned
a fine-dining experience for a Gardens might be one of the eateries.Their speciality is
little less than what diners may city’s most picturesque. seafood, especially mussels.
be asked to shell out elsewhere.
The set menu is great value The Glorious €€€ ‘t Zilte €€€
for money. American Map J3 Belgian
De Burburestraat 4a, 2000 Hanzestedenplaats 5, 2000
Dome €€€ Tel (03) 237 0613 Closed Sun Tel (03) 283 4040 Closed Sat & Sun
French & Mon Located on the top floor of the
Grotehondstraat 2, 2018 A Belgian take on an upscale Museum aan de Stroom (MAS),
Tel (03) 239 9003 Closed Sun New York bistro, located south this amazing two-Michelin-
& Mon of the city centre, close to starred restaurant offers modern
Inventive, contemporary, the Koninklijk Museum voor Belgian food and great wines
Michelin-starred French food in a Schone Kunsten. along with a terrific view.
SHOPPING
Brussels may traditionally be known for its chocolate. Throw in department stores
high-quality chocolate shops, but this great selling luxury goods and street markets for
shopping city has much more to offer. It bargain-hunters and you have a city that
is fast gaining on fashion capital Antwerp for caters for all shopping styles and budgets.
its own collection of cutting-edge designers, Bruges boasts chocolatiers galore, Ghent
and the city also happens to be the world offers vibrant music and clothes shops and
capital of comic books, with almost as many Antwerp is renowned for its diamond
shops selling comics as there are vending and fashion outlets.
Opening Hours
Most shops open from around
10am to 6pm, but at a few of
the arcades, and in the Rue
Neuve area, there is late-night
shopping on Fridays until
8pm. Apart from the “night
shops” (or corner stores) and
small Carrefour and Delhaize
supermarkets, almost all shops
are closed on Sundays (except
for the shops in the Quartier
Marolles) and many also on
Rue Neuve crowded with shoppers Mondays. The night shop chain
White Nights is good for late-
Where to Shop to Avenue Louise is Rue du night convenience shopping.
Brussels’ Grand Place is Bailli, with its art boutiques,
surrounded by lace vendors, game shops and tea importers.
chocolate shops and souvenir To the west of the Avenue How to Pay
outlets, but just one street lies the Matonge, the There is a noticeable lack of
south is Rue des Éperonniers, city’s most multi-cultural ATMs in and around the Grand
with shops selling vintage area, where street markets Place, and a number of the
clothing, posters and specialist are held on some weekends, smaller shops, newsagents,
teas. For all the major high- and where you can find supermarkets, cafés, and even
street chains, head to Rue skatewear, rare vinyl and some restaurants do not accept
Neuve, a short walk from the vintage denim in the St debit or credit cards. It is wise,
Grand Place. North-west of the Boniface area. It is a pleasant therefore, to ensure that you
Grand Place is Rue Antoine district to wander around always take out sufficient cash
Dansaert, centre of the on a Sunday afternoon. if you are planning to spend the
Bruxellois fashion scene. day in the city centre.
To the south-west of the Visitors from outside the EU
Grand Place is the Rue du are entitled to a refund on VAT
Midi, where you can find of purchases of more than €125
shops selling second-hand in one store. As the sales tax on
records, clothing, comic books, items can be as much as 21 per
stamps and coins. Between cent, this can be a considerable
the Lower and Upper Towns saving. Look out for the “Tax-
lies the antiques district of Free Shopping” logo on a shop
Rue Haute and Rue Blaes in door and request a tax-free
the Quartier Marolles, leading cheque, which you can redeem
into the Place du Grand at customs on your way out
Sablon, where exquisite of the EU.
chocolate shops can be found
alongside high-end florists
and antique shops. Department Stores
South of the Palais du and Arcades
Justice lies Avenue Louise Brussels has a selection of
and Boulevard de Waterloo, shopping malls, though they
where you can find top differ little from those found in
boutiques such as Gucci Renowned Dandoy biscuit shop on Rue other cities. However City 2, at
and Louis Vuitton. Perpendicular au Beurre the northern end of Rue Neuve, is
SHOPPING  161
starting point for any antiques high quality. The three biggest
hunter. It can take time to sort chains in Belgium – Godiva,
through the various boxes Neuhaus and Leonidas – have
of items but there are definitely many outlets throughout the city.
bargains to be found. For pre- While the area around the
sorted antiques, head instead for Grand Place has many chocolate
the more expensive market in shops, it is worth visiting the Place
the Place du Grand Sablon du Grand Sablon to find La
(weekends only). Maison Wittamer, a celebrated
family-run patisserie and
chocolatier, and also the flagship
Fashion shop of Pierre Marcolini, maker
Though Antwerp has long of exquistely designed chocolates
been regarded as Belgium’s and a pioneer in careful cocoa-
international fashion centre, bean sourcing. Look out too for
these days it is the capital city the torréfacteur-chocolatier
itself that is creating a stir. Frederic Blondeel in the adjacent
International high street names on the Rue Downtown’s Rue Antoine Rue de la Paille, or at his original
Neuve, Brusssels Dansaert (and its continuation workshop in the Quai aux Briques
into Rue Lepage) is at the heart (near Place Sainte-Catherine)
host to the exhaustive French of Brussels’ thriving fashion
book and CD emporium Fnac industry, and the principal
and the Belgian department outlet remains Stijl. Since 1984, Biscuits
store Inno. Further south on the it has sold the work of fashion Maison Dandoy, established in
same street lies Hema, graduates from the Antwerp Art 1829, is Brussels’ most cele-
a Dutch low-cost store, Academy such as Dries van brated biscuit shop, famed for
selling everything from clothes Noten, and still offers the its exquisite if unflamboyant
to kitchen utensils. Closer to best wares produced sablés, palets, macarons and
the Grand Place is Anspach by domestic talent. florentines. The beautiful little
Shopping, which includes a Further down the street, shop in the Rue au Beurre, near
casino, concert hall, peruse the beautiful the Grand Place, has been its
restaurant, a hotel and knitwear of Annemie home from 1858, but Dandoy
upmarket shopping. Verbeke, and Martin also has outlets in Brussels and
Possibly the most Margiela’s shop in Rue beyond – even Tokyo.
impressive collection of de Flandre, which
shops is the delightful offers the apparel of one
Galéries Saint-Hubert, an of Belgium’s most talked Beer
opulent 19th-century covered about designers. On Avenue Having fallen in love with
arcade – continental Louise, check out Belgium’s beers, you may want
Europe’s first – housing a A Dries van Brussels’ trendiest hat to take a few bottles home
host of upscale outlets. Noten design designer, Elvis Pompilio. with you. Most supermarkets,
such as Delhaize, Carrefour,
GB and Match, have quite
Markets and Antiques Chocolates comprehensive selections of
Brussels is blessed with a range of There are more than 80 many of the country’s finest
markets. Most weekends you can chocolatiers listed in the Brussels beers. However, for rarer finds –
find a “brocante” – a glorified car phone book – not including as well as appropriate glasses
boot sale combined with street franchise outlets – almost all of for each beer, gift boxes and
party – somewhere in the city.
These are listed in most of the
city’s free events magazines, as
are the various farmers’ markets
found across the city. Cheapest
and most extensive of the
traditional markets is the Marché
du Midi (Sundays 6am to 1pm),
near the Gare du Midi, which
reflects the tastes of the area’s
North African community.
The eclectic Marolles Marché
aux Puces (flea market) in Place
du Jeu de Balles (daily 6am to
2pm, but best at weekends)
dates back to 1873 and is the Browsers at the Marolles flea market
or Spegelaere in Ezelstraat.
Among Bruges’ most cherished
shops is Rombaux, which has
been selling classical records
and sheet music for three
generations and now has a
huge range of music CDs.
Belgian beer lovers will enjoy
The Bottle Shop, which stocks
over 600 labels, plus glasses.
Ghent
Ghent is a university town, so it
has a high number of record
Brüsel, one of Brussels’ many comic bookshops stores, streetwear outlets and
second-hand shops. The
other beer paraphernalia – visit cheap French second-hand pedestrianized main shopping
Beer Mania in Ixelles where you bookstore, has a number of area, the Veldstraat, also has all
can try the beer before you buy outlets in the city. the typical chain stores. For
it. Also recommended are De upscale second-hand retro
Bier Tempel and Delices et furniture, visit N’Importe
Caprices, both near the Grand Bruges Quoi. Music Mania covers
Place. Specialist beer glasses can The main shopping three floors and
be found at the Marolles flea thoroughfare, Steenstraat, specializes in drum ‘n’
market on Saturday mornings. has many of Belgium’s bass, reggae and jazz.
best known high-street Het Oorcussen is
stores, but the Belgian another outlet for
Comics fashion scene can also Antwerp’s famed fashion
Brussels is the world capital for be explored in the parallel designers, as is the
comic books, and the best of Noordzandstraat and men’s boutique Hot
its many shops is Brüsel, which Geldmuntstraat; Bruges’ Bottle Shop has Couture. Ghent’s
has a vast collection of comics L’Heroïne sells work by a range of beers quirkiest shop may
in French, Dutch and English; it a number of Antwerp’s be Vve Tierenteyn-
also has a gallery of framed famed young designers. Verlent, a picturesque
original art for sale on the second Bruges has more than 70 delicatessen dating back to
floor. In Rue des Renards is chocolate shops – although 1858. The mustard sold here was
Utopia, which leans towards locals will tell you that only first concocted by a Madame
American superhero strips and about ten of them are any Tierenteyn-Verlent in 1790.
science fiction but also has a good. The familiar brands
selection of Japanese anime Godiva, Neuhaus and Leonidas
titles. La Boutique Tintin is a are here, but it is worth seeking Antwerp
short walk from the Grand out local specialists such as Cutting-edge fashion can be
Place and offers a variety of Dumon in Simon Stevinplein found just a few streets away
Tintin-imprinted knick-knacks. from Antwerp’s main high-street
A more economical bet is the shopping district, the Meir. Dries
well-stocked comic shop on van Noten’s Het Modepaleis
the ground floor of the Comics and Walter van Beirendonck
Art Museum (see pp54–5). and Dirk van Saene at DVS are
all musts for fashionistas. The
Atelier Solarshop, the last
Bookshops word in Antwerp cool, sells
The Brussels outlet of the clothes by designer Jan-Jan
English bookstore, Waterstones, van Essche, along with jewellery
and the friendly, independent and shoes.
store Sterling Books both have Away from the city’s diamond
a wide selection of English- district west of the railway
language books. Nestled among station, modern jewellery
the high-fashion boutiques of outlets can be found in Schutter-
Rue Antoine Dansaert is Passa hofstraat. Try Nadine Wijnants’
Porta, which calls itself a tri- shops for clever but inexpensive
lingual bookstore and “Inter- contemporary pieces from one
national House of Literature”. Het Modepaleis in Antwerp, housing Dries of the country’s most exciting
Bibliopolis, a popular and van Noten’s collections jewellery designers.
SHOPPING  163
DIRECTORY
Department Stijl Delices et Caprices Rombaux
Stores and Rue Antoine Dansaert 74. Rue des Bouchers 68. Mallebergplaats 13.
Arcades Map 1 C2. Map 2 D3.
Tel (050) 332575.
Tel (02) 512 0313. Tel (02) 512 1451.
Anspach Shopping ∑ the-belgian-beer- ∑ rombaux.be
∑ stijl.be
Boulevard Anspach 24. tasting-shop.be
Map 2 D2. Chocolates Ghent
Tel (02) 735 8190. Comics
∑ anspach-brussels.be Frederic Blondeel Het Oorcussen
Quai aux Briques 24. Brüsel Vrijdagmarkt 7.
City 2 Boulevard Anspach 100.
Map 1 C2. Map F1.
Rue Neuve 123. Map 1 C3.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 502 2131. Tel (09) 233 0765.
Tel (02) 511 0809.
Tel (02) 211 4060. ∑ frederic-blondeel.be ∑ oorcussen.be
∑ brusel.com
∑ city2.be Godiva La Boutique Tintin Hot Couture
Fnac Grand Sablon 47–48. Rue de la Colline 13. Onderbergen 29.
City 2, Rue Neuve 123. Map 2 D4. Map 2 D3. Tel (09) 233 7407.
Map 2 D1. Tel (02) 502 9906. Tel (02) 514 5152. ∑ hotco.be
Tel (02) 275 1111. ∑ godivachocolates.eu
Comics Art Museum
∑ fnac.be Music Mania
Leonidas Rue des Sables 20.
Galéries Royales Rue au Beurre 34. Map 2 F5. St. Pietersnieuwstrwat 19.
Saint-Hubert Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 219 1980. Tel (09) 278 2338.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 512 8737. ∑ comicscenter.net ∑ musicmaniarecords.
∑ grsh.be ∑ leonidas.com com
Utopia
Hema La Maison Wittamer Rue de Midi 39. N’Importe Quoi
Rue Neuve 13. Place du Grand Sablon 6, Map 1 C5.
Burgstraat 11.
Map 2 D2. 12 & 13. Tel (02) 514 0826.
∑ utopiacomics.be
Map D/E1.
Tel (02) 227 5210. Map 2 D4.
∑ hema.be Tel (09) 223 0617.
Tel (02) 512 3742.
Bookshops ∑ nimportequoi.eu
Inno ∑ wittamer.com
Rue Neuve 111–123. Bibliopolis Vve Tierenteyn-
Neuhaus
Map 2 D2. Rue du Midi 93. Verlent
Galerie de la Reine 25–27.
Tel (02) 211 2111. Map 1 C3. Groentenmarkt 3.
Map 1 C3. Tel (02) 512
∑ inno.be Tel (02) 502 4676.
6359. ∑ neuhaus.be Map E1.
∑ bibliopolis.be
Markets and Tel (09) 225 8336.
Pierre Marcolini Passa Porta
Antiques Rue des Minimes 1. Rue Antoine Dansaert 46.
∑ tierenteyn-verlent.
Map 1 5C. be
Marché du Midi Map 1 C2.
Gare du Midi. Map 1 A5. Tel (02) 514 1206. Tel (02) 502 9460.
∑ marcolini.be ∑ passaporta.be
Antwerp
Marolles Marché aux
Puces Biscuits Sterling Books Atelier Solarshop
Place du Jeu de Balle. Rue de Fossé aux Loups Dambruggestraat 48.
Map 1 C5. Maison Dandoy 23–25. ∑ ateliersolarshop.be
Rue au Beurre 31. Map 2 D2.
Fashion Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 223 6223. DVS
Tel (02) 511 0326. ∑ sterlingbooks.be Schuttershofstraat 9
Annemie Verbeke (1st Floor).
∑ maisondandoy.com Waterstones
Rue Antoine Dansaert 64.
Boulevard Adolphe Max Tel 0488 492814.
Map 1 C2. Beer 71–75. ∑ waltervanbeiren
Tel (02) 511 2171.
Map 2 D1. donck.com
∑ annemieverbeke.be Beer Mania Tel (02) 219 2708.
Elvis Pompilio Chausée de Wavre 174–176. ∑ waterstones.com/ Het Modepaleis
Avenue Louise 437. Map 2 F5. bookshops/Brussels Nationalestraat 16.
Tel (02) 512 8588. Tel (02) 512 1788.
Tel (03) 470 2510.
∑ elvispompilio.com ∑ beermania.be Bruges
∑ driesvannoten.be
Martin Margiela De Bier Tempel The Bottle Shop
Rue Marché aux Herbes 56. Nadine Wijnants
Rue de Flandre 114. Map Wollestraat 13.
1 B1. Tel (02) 223 7520. Map 2 D3. Map B3. Kloosterstraat 26.
∑ maisonmargiela. Tel (02) 502 1906. Tel (050) 349980. Tel (0484) 643303.
com ∑ biertempel.eu ∑ thebottleshop.be ∑ nadinewijnants.be
For Ghent and Bruges map references refer to the inside back cover
ENTERTAINMENT
Lying at at the crossroads of London, Paris, cinephilic population. Ghent’s large student
Amsterdam and Cologne, Brussels benefits population gives the city a lively urban scene
from the best international touring groups and knowingly cool Antwerp, the country’s
passing through the city. In its own right, clubbing and fashion capital, offers a range of
Brussels is one of the top destinations in options in much the same vein as Brussels.
Europe for modern dance and jazz, is host Bruges, although quieter, is equipped with a
to a world-renowned classical musical clutch of cosy pubs and jazz bars in which to
competition, and has a knowledgeable, while away the evening.
which instantly places its

winners at the very height
of their profession.
The Théâtre Royal de la
Monnaie (see p52) is one of
Europe’s finest opera houses,
and its season runs from
September to June. Tickets
can be cheap, but beware,
many productions sell out
months in advance. The Palais
des Beaux-Arts, the country’s
most notable cultural venue, is
home to the Belgian National
Orchestra and site of the
final rounds of the Concours
Reine Elisabeth. Its Art Nouveau
hall, Salle Henri LeBoeuf, has
The 19th-century interior of La Monnaie Opera House recently been renovated,
vastly improving the building’s
Listings and Tickets com for a trilingual schedule acoustics. Its season also runs
Up-to-date and tuned in to of jazz gigs throughout the from September to June.
the city’s goings-on is Agenda, country. If you are interested
a trilingual listings magazine in reggae, ska and dancehall,
that can usually be found visit www.irielion.com. The Dance
freely distributed in boxes best online arts agenda, albeit For its size, Belgium is
outside supermarkets and in in French and Dutch only, is particularly strong in the field
cafés, and online at agenda. found at Out by Netevents of modern dance, with its
brussels/en. The Bulletin (www.out.be). leading choreographers –
magazine, highly On foot, head above all Anne Teresa De
popular with to the Tourist Keersmaeker, Michèle Anne
expatriates for five Information Office, de Mey and Wim Vandekeybus
decades, now has a which, as well (www. ultimavez.com) –
purely online as offering free having enormous influence
presence in Brussels, maps and other internationally. De Keersmaeker
but it still provides a information, will is a former resident at the
good range of news, also help you Brussels opera and director
reviews and events book tickets. of the world-renowned Rosas
listings, along with company (www.rosas.be).
other useful Magazines on sale in Venues naturally vary, but
information and Brussels Opera and the Théâtre Les Tanneurs,
links. Visit the Classical tucked away in the cobbled
website at www.xpats.com. Students from around the streets of the Marolles district,
The French-language world come to study at the puts dance at the centre of
newspapers La Libre Belgique Royal Conservatory of Music, its programme. Ticket prices
and Le Soir both publish their which is the site of the initial are reasonable.
entertainment supplements rounds of the Concours
every Wednesday. For cinema Musical International Reine
times online, check www. Elisabeth de Belgique, one Jazz
cinenews.be or www.cinebel. of the most challenging Brussels is one of the key cities
be. Visit www.jazzinbelgium. musical contests in the world, in the world for jazz, and the
E N T E R TA I N M E N T  165
Belgium’s top arena for big- La Tentation for flamenco,

name acts. Closer to the salsa and Flemish folk.
centre, Brussels’ other venues Although the city has few
tend to be more intimate noted bands of its own, nearby
places, with their own Liège has quite a strong indie
favoured musical genres. rock scene, centring around the
Café Central favours R&B, Jaune Orange label, whose acts
blues, bossa nova and often play in Brussels.
ambient. Cirque Royale
leans towards indie rock, and
has a reputation for booking Theatre
rock and new-wave bands There is a substantial English-
long before they are language theatre scene in
household names. Brussels. The city’s five
The downtown Ancienne English-language troupes –
Belgique has a similar line-up the American Theater
to Cirque Royale, if for more Company, the Brussels Light
Live jazz at the Music Village in Brussels’ established acts. Flemish Opera Company, the
Lower Town student venue Brussels Shakespeare
Kultuur Kaffee Society, the
leading soloists and groups are at the Vrij Irish Theatre
sure to include the town in Universiteit Company and the
their tour schedules. Brussel (the English Comedy
Every May, jazz fans from Dutch-language Club – are an –
around the world congregate university) always established part
for the Brussels Jazz has a strong line- of the Brussels
Marathon, which hosts up of bands and theatre society.
hundreds of gigs in all forms, serves the Logo for rock venue Performances are far
many of them for free. cheapest beer in Ancienne Belgique from amateur and all
The quintessential Brussels town. Recyclart plays are advertised
jazz venue is the venerable showcases avant-garde in the city’s listings magazines.
L’Archiduc, an Art Deco gem techno, hardcore, punk and The most important
in the centre of town where a bit of world music in a Belgian theatre is the Théâtre
Miles Davis once popped in to refitted abandoned train National, which stages
jam. There are regular concerts station. Look out for the old high-quality productions
at weekends and occasionally wood-and-brass ticket of mainly French classics as
in the week. For jazz ranging windows which have been well as welcoming visiting
from Big Band to contem- turned into the bar. Magasin 4 companies, such as the Royal
porary, head to Jazz Station, is dedicated to the promotion Shakespeare Company.
in a former railway station in of French punk and ska. Visit Young Belgian playwrights
St Josse. For international acts, the Halles de Schaerbeek, a have the oppor tunity to be
head to the classy Music 19th-century former market, showcased at the private
Village, which stretches across for a range of different groups, Théâtre Public, while French
two 17th-century buildings Vaartkapoen (also known as 20th-century and burlesque
close to the Grand Place, VK Club) for reggae, the pieces are staged in the
and features local and Beursschouwburg – the glorious and beautifully restored
international names. Regular Flemish Cultural Community surrounds of the Théâtre
jazz gigs are held in the Art centre – for Flemish acts, and Royal du Parc.
Deco splendour of the Flagey
building in Ixelles. Sounds is
another popular venue with
a prolific agenda of concerts
every day except Sunday.
Rock, Folk, World

and Reggae
Brussels is one of the best
cities in Europe to catch
up-and-coming acts, and ticket
prices don’t usually go much
above €20 for a concert.
The Forest-National, lying
southeast of the city centre, is Le Botanique cultural centre, venue for Les Nuits Botanique festival
Cinema
For the latest blockbuster
films – always in their original
language and never dubbed –
head to the massive Kinepolis
Bruxelles (Laeken), boasting
24 screens (including IMAX).
Two central UGC cineplexes
will also satisfy most
mainstream tastes.
For more intriguing
programmes and ambience,
try the Nova cinema for truly
independent films, the Actors
Studio for foreign and art Latin-inspired Brussels hot spot Mappa Mundo
films, and Cinema Galeries,
which has its own eclectically The Fuse, has earned a Bruges
chosen, month-long summer reputation for top-name Bruges is a real pub-goer’s town
festival, “L’Heure d’été”. For techno and dance DJs. Once more than anything, yet jazz
mainstream films in Art Deco a month it becomes La lovers have plenty to choose
movie palace surrounds, go Demence, a gay night that from, notably the family-friendly
to Movy Club. Tickets cost draws crowds from Germany, art centre De Werf in Werfstraat
from €6 to €7.50. France and the Netherlands and Het Zwart Huis. This
Brussels has a packed (www.lademence.com). friendly bistro puts on live jazz,
agenda of film festivals for Ric’s Boat, an actual boat folk and blues twice monthly on
lovers of a variety of genres turned nightclub, hosts parties Sunday nights.
including fantasy (Brussels and music/dance nights. Les
International Fantastic Film Jeux d’Hiver, in the middle of
Festival, April) and animation the Bois de la Cambre woods, Ghent
(Anima, February). attracts an affluent crowd. Big, For Ghent jazz, the mandatory
bold and occupying a church visit is to Art Nouveau Damberd
in Ixelles, Spirito Brussels is a Jazz Café, which has live jazz on
night club with a difference. Tuesdays. Ghent’s popular
In the Marolles, Cuban disco Hotsy Totsy jazz bar also offers
Havana stays open until 7am occasional stand-up comedy.
at weekends. The country’s most warm-
Check www.noctis.com for spirited festival, De Gentse
up-to-date nightlife listings. Feesten, is a centuries-old
celebration that lasts for ten
days in July. Buskers, street
Music Festivals performers, rock and jazz bands
A definite high point on the compete for the attention
classical music calender is of a lively crowd.
Ars Musica, a festival where
composers often premiere
their works. The festival takes Antwerp
place over several weeks, Antwerp is home to Belgian
Poster for BIFFF film festival, held usually in March. ballet. The Royal Ballet of
annually in April Les Nuits Botanique is a Flanders, founded in 1969,
festival of over a hundred performs both classical and
Clubs and Nightlife concerts, with indie rock, contemporary works. Tickets
Brussels’ bright young things chanson Française and rap start at €15.
start off their weekend in figuring prominently; it takes The city also claims two opera
St Géry, a square of trendy over the Botanique for the houses and some fine theatres
cafés and clubs just off the whole of May. In June, hundreds and jazz venues. Try the
fashion district of Rue Antoine of free concerts are on offer atmospheric De Muze for first-
Dansaert. Formerly a run-down during the Fête de la Musique rate jazz and jam sessions.
quarter surrounding the old festival. In the last weekend of the Clubbers from across the
grain exchange, the area is same month, the biggest pop country flock to Café d’Anvers.
now home to latin-flavoured and rock festival in the country The former church, located in
Mappa Mundo, popular comes to the village of Werchter Antwerp’s red light district, was
Le Roi des Belges and the (15 km/9 miles from Leuven) turned into a house club in 1991.
elegant Gecko Bar. The most when the giant Rock Werchter Petrol Club, meanwhile, blends
renowned club in Brussels, festival takes place. electro, hip-hop and rock.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T  167
DIRECTORY
Opera and Cirque Royale Théâtre Royal du Parc Spirito Brussels
Classical Rue de l’Enseignement 81. Rue de la Loi 3. Rue Stassart 18. Tel 0483
Tel (02) 218 2015. Tel (02) 505 3040. 580697. Map 2 E5.
Belgian National ∑ cirque-royal.org ∑ theatreduparc.be ∑ spiritobrussels.com
Orchestra
Galeries Ravenstein 28. Forest-National
Map 2 E3. Avenue Victor Rousseau Cinema Music Festivals
Tel (02) 552 0460. 208. Tel (03) 400 6970.
Actors Studio Ars Musica
∑ forestnational.be
Palais des Beaux-Arts Petite Rue des Bouchers 16. ∑ arsmusica.be
Rue Ravenstein 23. Halles de Schaerbeek Tel (02) 512 1696.
Rue Royale Sainte-Mairie ∑ actorstudio.be Fête de la Musique
Map 2 E3. Tel (02) 507 ∑ fetedelamusique.be
22. Tel (02) 218 2107.
8200. ∑ bozar.be Anima
∑ halles.be Les Nuits Botanique
Tel (02) 502 7011.
Théâtre de la Monnaie ∑ botanique.be
Kultuur Kaffee ∑ animafestival.be
Place de la Monnaie. Map
Boulevard de la Plaine 2. Brussels International Rock Werchter
2 D2. Tel (02) 229 1211.
∑ lamonnaie.be Tel (02) 629 2326. Festival of Fantastic ∑ rockwerchter.be
∑ kultuurkaffee.be Film
Dance Magasin 4 ∑ bifff.net Bruges
Avenue du Port 51B. Cinema Galeries
Théâtre Les Tanneurs De Werf
Tel (02) 223 3474. Galerie de la Reine 26.
Rue des Tanneurs 75. Werfstraat 108.
∑ magasin4.be Tel (02) 514 7498.
Tel (02) 512 1784. Tel (050) 330529.
Recyclart ∑ galeries.be
∑ lestanneurs.be ∑ dewerf.be
Rue des Ursulines 25. Kinepolis Bruxelles
Jazz Map 1 C4. Tel (02) 502 (Laeken) Het Zwart Huis
5734. ∑ recyclart.be Bruparck, Boulevard du Kuipersstraat 23.
L’Archiduc Tel (050) 691140.
La Tentation Centenaire 20.
Rue Antoine-Dansaert 6. ∑ bistrozwarthuis.be
Rue de Laeken 28. ∑ kinepolis.be
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 512
Tel (02) 223 2275. Movy Club
0652. ∑ archiduc.net
∑ latentation.be
Ghent
Rue des Moines 21.
Brussels Jazz Damberd Jazz Café
VK Club Tel (02) 537 6954.
Marathon
Schoolstraat 76. Korenmarkt 19.
∑ brusselsjazz Nova
Tel (02) 413 0410. Map E2.
marathon.be Rue d’Arenberg 3.
∑ vkconcerts.be Tel (09) 329 5337.
Tel (02) 511 2477.
Flagey
∑ nova-cinema.org De Gentse Feesten
Place Ste Croix. Tel (02) 641 Theatre Tel (09) 269 4600.
1020. ∑ flagey.be
American Theater Clubs and Nightlife ∑ gentsefeesten.stad.
Jazz Station Company gent
Chaussée de Louvain, The Fuse
Rue Waelhem 69a.
193a–195. Tel (02) 733 Rue Blaes 208. Hotsy Totsy
∑ atcbrussels.com
1378. ∑ jazzstation.be Tel (02) 511 9789. Hoogstraat 1.
Brussels Light ∑ fuse.be Map D1–2.
The Music Village Opera Company Tel (09) 224 2012.
Rue des Pierres 50. Map 1 ∑ bloc-brussels.be
Gecko Bar
C3. Tel (02) 513 1345. Place Saint-Géry 16.
Brussels Shakespeare Map 1 C2. Antwerp
Sounds Society
Havana Café d’Anvers
Rue de la Tulipe 28. Map 2 ∑ theatreinbrussels.
Rue de l’Epée 4. Verversrui 15.
F5. Tel (02) 512 9250. com
∑ soundsjazzclub.be Tel (02) 502 1224. . Tel (03) 226 3870.
English Comedy Club ∑ cafe-d-anvers.com
Rue Waelhem 73. ∑ ecc. Les Jeux d’Hiver
Rock, Folk, World theatreinbrussels.com Chemin du Croquet 1. De Muze
and Reggae Tel (02) 649 0864. Melkmarkt 15.
Irish Theatre Co ∑ jeuxdhiver.be
Ancienne Belgique ∑ irishtheatrebrussels. Tel (03) 226 0126.
Mappa Mundo ∑ jazzmuze.be
Boulevard Anspach 110. com
Tel (02) 548 2424. Rue du Pont de la Carpe 2. Petrol Club
Théâtre National
∑ abconcerts.be Tel (02) 514 3555. D’Herbouvillekaai 25.
Boulevard Emile Jacqmain
Beursschouwburg 111–115. Ric’s Boat Tel (03) 226 4963.
A Ortsstraat 20–28. Tel (02) 203 4155. Quai des Péniches 44. ∑ petrolclub.be
Tel (02) 550 0350. ∑ theatrenational.be Tel (0476) 24 0986. Royal Ballet of
∑ beursschouwburg.be ∑ rics-party-boat.com
Théâtre Le Public Flanders
Café Central Rue Braemt 64–70. Le Roi des Belges Kattendijkdok-Westkaai 16.
Rue de Borgval 14. Tel 0800 94444. Rue Jules Van Praet 35. Tel (03) 234 3438.
∑ lecafecentral.com ∑ theatrelepublic.be Tel (02) 513 5116 ∑ operaballet.be
For Ghent and Bruges map references refer to the inside back cover
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 170–173

Travel Information 174–179
170  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Although comfortable with its status as a medical and financial information. Brussels
major political and business centre, Brussels is a very cosmopolitan city, and its residents,
has sometimes struggled with its role as a many of whom are foreigners themselves,
tourist destination. It can be hard to find all are usually charming and friendly, with
but the most obvious sights: the same goes most speaking English. Both the Upper
for inexpensive hotels. The tourist office, and Lower Town can be negotiated on foot,
however, goes out of its way to help travellers and although Brussels’ reputation as a rainy
enjoy the city and provides help with city is overplayed, bring a raincoat in summer
everything from finding hidden sights to and warm clothing for winter.
Customs and Office in Grand Place, costs €38 that well. A simple “goed dag”
Immigration and gives you free access to will do the trick, after which the
Belgium is one of the signa- 25 of the city’s museums, conversation will almost certainly
tories to the 1985 Schengen discounts for some attractions, revert to your own language.
agreement, which means restaurants and shops, and a In Wallonia, on the other hand,
travellers moving from one guide to the city. The tourist there will be almost no Dutch
Schengen country to another office also publishes a variety and little English spoken outside
are not subject to border of maps, guides and tours. the main tourist areas. A useful
controls. However, carry your start would be to look through
passport as there are the Phrase Book on p197.
occasional spot checks, and Language
always carry ID with you. Brussels is officially bilingual,
Britain does not belong which means that everything Opening Hours
to Schengen, so travellers from street signs to bus Most shops and businesses are
coming from the UK must destination boards must be in open Monday to Saturday from
present a valid passport when French and Dutch. The locals are 10am to 6pm. Supermarkets are
entering Belgium. This also also remarkably adept at other usually open from 9am to 8pm.
applies to US, Australian and languages too, and English in For late-night essentials and
Canadian citizens. particular is spoken to an alcohol, “night shops” stay open
British travellers no longer impressive level across much until 1 or 2am. Banks are usually
benefit from duty-free goods, of the city. open weekdays from 9am to
but visitors from non-EU Things become slightly more 1pm and 2 to 4pm.
countries are entitled to a VAT complicated outside Brussels, Many sights are closed on
refund if they spend more than in part due to historical issues Monday. Public museums are
€125 in a single transaction. over language between the usually open Tuesday to Sunday
French and Flemish communi- from 10am to 5pm.
ties. Long-standing resentment
Travel Safety Advice at the dominance of French in
Visitors can get up-to-date Belgium means that initiating a Admission Charges
travel safety information from conversation or ordering in a Most of Brussels’ major
the Foreign and Common- restaurant in French while you attractions charge an entrance
wealth Office in the UK, the are in Flanders doesn’t go down fee, currently around €8–10,
State Department in the US
and the Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade
in Australia.
Tourist Information
The city is rarely crowded, so
you should not have to wait at
major attractions and museums
unless a special event is taking
place. If you are planning to do
extensive sightseeing, the one-
day tram and bus pass or, for
longer stays, a MOBIB travel
card (see p177) is a must. A 72-
hr Brussels Card, available from
the Tourist and Information The sculpture court in the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts in summer
Bicycles for hire at the Grand Place, Brussels
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  171
Responsible Tourism
Awareness of the environment
and local culture is subtly,
yet powerfully felt in Brussels.
Recycling has become second
nature: public litter bins,
scattered across the city, are
colour-coded for different types
of rubbish and supermarkets
all over the capital charge for
using plastic bags.
Every commune has excellent
weekly food markets offering
the best in fresh, local produce.
Two of these markets, at
Place de la Monnaie and the
Visitors taking a break from sightseeing at a pavement café Ateliers des Tanneurs in the
Marolles, offer organic (or “bio”)
though there are often reduc- mobility on everything from vegetables, cheese, bread, fruit,
tions available for students, transport to restaurants and meat and charcuterie. Even
senior citizens and the exhibitions. The Tourist Office the traditional Cantillon
unemployed, while children also provides information Brewery in Anderlecht uses
under 12 usually get in free. and advice about facilities cereal that is 100 per cent
Some museums, such as the within the city. organic for its beer.
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Under the auspices of
de Belgique and the Musée des Slow Food Metropolitan
Instruments de Musique, are Travelling with Children Brussels, a self-styled “convivium”
free to all after 1pm on the first Brussels is one of the most of restaurateurs and food-
Wednesday of each month. child-friendly cities in Europe. producers, regular events are
There are some excellent held that promote the Slow
museums aimed specifically Food movement and support
Tipping at younger children, such as the twin causes of long, lively
A service charge is included in the Musée du Jouet, packed and fun-loving meals, largely
all hotel and restaurant prices. with vintage toys, and the using regional produce, and
A small tip for the chambermaid Musée des Enfants in Ixelles. “eco-gastronomy’”.
and porter should be given Attractions like the Natural
personally to them, or left in Science Museum, Bruparck DIRECTORY
your vacated room. Most diners and the Walibi theme park,
round up the bill or add about just outside the city, will Tourist Information
10 per cent if the service has appeal to older kids. There Tourist and Information
been particularly good. Service are almost always discounts Office of Brussels
is also included in taxi fares, available for children: at the Grand Place 1, 1000 Brussels.
although a 10 per cent tip Musées Royaux des Beaux- Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 513 8940.
is customary. Arts, under-18s are free if ∑ visit.brussels.be
accompanied by an adult, and UK Tourism Flanders
there are price reductions at ∑ visitflanders.com
Travellers with Walibi for kids aged six to 11. US Belgian Tourist Office
Disabilities Children under six have free ∑ visitbelgium.com
The Belgian capital is not the entry to most museums, and
easiest city for the disabled they can travel for free on Travel Safety Advice
traveller to negotiate, but the buses, trams and trains. Australia
authorities have recognized that ∑ dfat.gov.au/smartraveller.
there is significant room for gov.au/
improvement. Most of the more Public Toilets
UK
expensive hotels have some Many public toilets in Brussels, ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-
rooms designed specifically for including those in bars, advice
people with disabilities; there restaurants and even cinemas US
are designated parking spaces and railway stations, have ∑ travel.state.gov/
for disabled drivers and newer attendants, who should be
trams provide wheelchair given 40–50 cents. If they are Travellers with
access, through only 10 metro unmanned, an honour system Disabilities
stations have lifts. The Brussels applies and you’ll be expected Brussels For All
For All website has information to leave the money in a dish at ∑ bruxellespourtous.be
for travellers with reduced the entrance.
Personal Security and Health must carry an EHIC (European

health insurance card).
Brussels is one of Europe’s safest capitals, with street crime Europeans should make it clear
against visitors a relatively rare occurrence. The poorer areas that they have state insurance, or
west and north of the city centre, including Anderlecht, they may end up with a large bill.
State healthcare subsidies do not
Molenbeek and parts of Schaerbeek and St-Josse, have quite cover all problems and it is worth
a bad reputation, but these areas are perfectly safe during the taking out full travel insurance.
daytime for everyone except those who flaunt their wealth. This can also cover lost property.
After dark, it is sensible not to walk around on your own in
these areas. Public transport is usually safe at all hours. Medical Matters
Whether or not you have
Police At night, avoid the city’s parks, insurance, doctors in Belgium
There are two levels of especially at Botanique and Parc will usually expect you to settle
integrated police in Brussels. Josaphat in Schaerbeek, both the bill on the spot – and in cash.
Major crimes and motorway favoured haunts of drug-dealers. Arrange to make a payment by
offences are handled by the bank transfer (most doctors will
national gendarmerie. accept this if you insist).
However, visitors are most In an Emergency Pharmacies are usually open
likely to come across the For emergencies requiring Monday to Friday from 8:30am
communal police, who police assistance, call 101; to 6:30pm and Saturday from
are responsible for for medical or fire 8:30am to noon, with each
law and order in services, phone 100. commune operating a rota for
each of the capital’s Brussels hospitals out-of-hours and holiday cover.
19 administrative with emergency
districts. All Brussels depart- ments include DIRECTORY
police officers must Clinique Edith Cavell and
speak French and Cliniques Universitaires Police
Flemish, and many Police officer Saint Luc. The
Central Police Station
will be proficient in on patrol Community Help Rue du Marché au Charbon 30,
English too. Service’s (CHS) 24-hour 1000 Brussels. Map 1 C3.
The main police station for English-language help line is for Tel (02) 279 7711.
central Brussels is on Rue du expatriates, but it may be able
Marché au Charbon, close to to assist tourists. In an Emergency
the Grand Place. If stopped by
the police, visitors will be asked Lost Property Ambulance and Fire
for identification, so carry your Your chance of retrieving Services
Tel 100.
passport on you at all times. Be property lost in the street is
aware that talking on a mobile minimal, although it may be Clinique Edith Cavell
phone while driving and worth trying the police’s Lost- Rue Edith Cavell 32, 1180
possession of cannabis is illegal and-Found Office. For insurance Brussels.
here; not using road crossings purposes, contact the police Tel (02) 434 4111.
correctly is also illegal and may station for the commune in Cliniques Universitaires
be subject to on-the-spot fines. which the article disappeared. (If Saint Luc
you are not sure where that is, Ave Hippocrate 10, 1200
contact the central police station Brussels.
What to be Aware of on Rue du Marché au Charbon.) Tel (02) 764 1111.
Most of Brussels’ main tourist The public transport authority Community Help Service
attractions are located in safe STIB/MIVB has a lost-and-found Tel (02) 648 4014.
areas. When driving, make sure service for the metro, trams and
car doors are locked and any buses. Report items lost in a taxi Police
valuables are kept out of sight. to the police station nearest your Tel 101.
If you are sightseeing, limit the point of departure, with any
Lost Property
amount of cash you carry. details about the taxi – the firm,
Handbags should be worn with the car colour – you can recall. Lost-and-Found Office
the strap across the shoulder Rue du Frontispice 55, 1000.
and the clasp facing towards Tel (02) 274 1690.
the body. Wallets should be Travel and Health
STIB/MIVB
kept in a front, not back, pocket. Insurance Inside the Porte de Namur
Hotel rooms often come with a Travellers from Britain and Ireland metro station. Map E5.
safe; if not, there should be one are entitled to free healthcare Tel (070) 23 2000.
at reception to keep valuables under reciprocal agreements ∑ stib.be
locked up. within the EU. To obtain this, you
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  173
Banking and Communications be found online at bric.brussels.

There are almost no large
Along with an array of banks and exchange bureaux in Internet cafés, though in and
Brussels, there are hundreds of 24-hour cashpoints located around Boulevard Anspach in
around the city, and international credit and debit cards are particular are phone shops and
corner stores that have a few
widely accepted. The postal system is efficient and the city
computers with Internet access.
is especially big on Wi-Fi, pioneering free Wi-fi hotspots
throughout the main tourist areas. As the capital of Europe,
Brussels is a multilingual media hub; all aspects of publishing Newspapers, TV
and Radio
and broadcasting are available whatever your language.
International editions of British
and American daily newspapers
Banks and Bureaux Credit Cards and English-language magazines
de Change American Express, Diners Club, are sold at newsstands and at
Most banks in Brussels are open MasterCard and Visa are widely bookshops such as Waterstones
weekdays from 9am to 1pm and accepted in Brussels, although it is and Sterling Books.
2 to 4pm; some open late on wise to check in advance if Belgium has one of the
Friday until 4:30 or 5pm, and a booking a hotel or restaurant. world’s most advanced cable TV
few on Saturday mornings. Most hotels will accept a credit networks, with access to more
Banks often offer very card booking, and the cardholder than 40 channels, including
competitive exchange rates, may be asked for a credit card both BBC 1 and 2, CNN and Arte.
and most will happily serve imprint at check-in. Check first in Classical music radio stations
non-clients. Many transactions shops and supermarkets whether include Musique 3 (91.2 FM) and
(especially money transfers) they take credit cards, as some will Radio Klara (89.5 FM). Internet radio
are liable to banking fees, so only accept cards issued by stations, such as StarRadio (www.
ask in advance what these Belgian banks, most notably the star-radio.net), offer pop music, as
rates might be. Most banks popular Mister Cash card. well as news and chat in English.
will be able to cash traveller’s
cheques with the signatory’s
passport or other form of ATMs
photographic identification. Almost all bank branches have
Visitors are also usually able to 24-hour cashpoint facilities.
exchange foreign currency, Most ATMs will accept a wide
again with valid ID. You will find range of credit or debit cards
that many bank attendants including Cirrus, Plus, Maestro
speak good English. and Star cards as well as those
There is a 24-hour automated from MasterCard and Visa.
exchange machine at Grand
Place 7, while in the streets A magazine stand
around the square, there are Post and Communications
several bureaux de change that Brussels’ central post office, DIRECTORY
are open until 7pm or later. 1 Boulevard Anspach, is open
Some of these charge no from 8:30am to 6pm Monday to Lost Credit Cards
commission for exchanging Friday and 10am–4pm Saturday. American Express
cash, though it’s always worth Public payphones, run by Tel (02) 676 2121.
comparing prices between Belgacom, accept both coins
different bureaux. There are and telephone cards. Directory MasterCard
currency exchange booths at all enquiries can be contacted on Tel 0800 1 5096.
of the city’s major stations. 1307 or international directory Visa
enquiries on 1304. Tel 0800 1 8397.
The ability to use your mobile
phone in Belgium depends on Bookshops
your network; ask your provider
Librairie Louis d’Or
whether this service is available Rue du Bailli 54.
to you before travelling. Map 2 D5. Tel (02) 640 6432.
Free Wi-Fi is available
throughout Brussels at bars, Sterling Books
cafés and hotels. A number Rue du Fossé-aux-Loups 23–25.
of places such as the Grand Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 223 6223.
Place, the Bourse and Place Waterstones
Flagey have been designated Boulevard Adolphe Max 71–75.
free Wi-Fi hotspots. A map of Map 2 D1. Tel (02) 219 2708.
Red Belgian postbox current hotspot locations can
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Brussels is well suited to both casual and The Eurostar and Thalys high-speed trains
business travellers, with excellent link the city with London, Paris, Amsterdam
connections by air, rail and road. The and Germany, and compare favourably with
increasing political significance of Brussels flying in terms of time. Visitors travelling from
in its role as the heart of Europe has led to Britain can use the Channel Tunnel or a range
greater competition between airlines, with of cross-Channel ferry services if they want to
many operators offering discounted fares. bring their car with them.
An SNCB/NMBS (see p178)

train runs from Charleroi to
Gare du Midi. The journey
takes about 45 minutes to/
from the station. Ryanair also
operates a shuttle bus
between Brussels South-
Charleroi Airport and Gare du
Midi, with a journey time of
approximately 1 hour.
An aeroplane from Belgian carrier Brussels Airlines’ fleet
Arriving by Air miles) from the centre of Arriving by Rail
Situated 14 km (9 miles) Brussels and can be reached Brussels is at the heart of
northeast of the city centre, by train or coach. Europe’s high-speed train
Brussels National Airport is networks, connected to
in the Flemish commune of London by the Eurostar service
Zaventem (the name by which Getting into Town and to Paris, Amsterdam and
it is known to most citizens, The cheapest way of getting Cologne by the Thalys network.
including taxi drivers). A centre from Zaventem to the city These trains have a top speed
for Belgian carrier Brussels centre is the express train from of 300 kph (186 mph) and
Airlines, the airport is also the airport to Gare du Nord, have slashed journey times
served by major carriers such Gare Centrale or Gare du Midi. between northern Europe’s
as British Airways, KLM, Air Tickets (about €8) are on sale major cities significantly.
Canada, Delta and Lufthansa in the airport complex or can Eurostar passengers should
and low-cost operators like be purchased online. Three book their tickets early to take
easyJet and Ryanair. A typical trains run each hour between advantage of reduced fares;
journey from London takes 5am and midnight; the journey they should also arrive
around 45 minutes. Thanks to to Gare Centrale takes 20 at the terminal a minimum
the high volume of business minutes. There is also an of 30–40 minutes before
travel, a scheduled return flight airport bus, Line 12, which runs departure to go through
from the UK can be as much as hourly between 6am and the check-in and customs
£270, so keep an eye out for 11pm. It stops at only the main procedures before boarding.
deals from the budget carriers, train stations and Schuman It is possible that you may be
especially if you can be flexible metro stop, terminating at refused access to the train if
with travel dates. Place Luxembourg, near the you arrive after this time,
Reaching Brussels from the European Parliament. although you can often be
US can also be more expensive There is a taxi rank outside transferred to the next service
than reaching other European the arrivals hall. A one-way fare at no extra charge.
cities. Flights average US$1000 from the airport to
for a charter return from New the centre of Brussels
York. Prices from Canada will cost €40–45 and
are comparable. should take around
Brussels South Charleroi 20 minutes (though
Airport has become a second this may be longer
hub since Ryanair began at rush hour). If you
operating scheduled flights plan to return by
from various European taxi, ask the driver
destinations (including about deals, as
Glasgow Prestwick and some companies
Edinburgh in the UK). The offer discounts on
airport is located 55 km (34 return fares. Eurostar train at the Gare du Midi, Brussels
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  175
Trains run hourly between DFDS Seaways

London’s St Pancras Inter- does not
national station and Brussels take foot
via the Channel Tunnel; the passengers.
journey takes just under 2
hours and arrives at the Gare
du Midi, which is served by Arriving
metro trains, buses and by Car
trams. Taxis to the centre cost Le Shuttle, operated by Eurolines coach running between London
around €15. Eurotunnel, takes vehicles and Brussels
Many visitors to Brussels from the Channel Tunnel
arrive from mainland Europe. entrance near Folkestone from Victoria Coach Station
The high-speed train company direct to Calais, a journey of in London to Brussels’ Gare
Thalys also operates from about 35 minutes. From there, du Nord, via the Channel
the Gare du Midi and offers Brussels is just a 2-hour drive Tunnel. Prices are extremely
a comfortable journey, with via the A16 motorway, which competitive compared to
Paris accessible in 1 hour and becomes the E40 when you other forms of travel to
25 minutes, Amsterdam in cross the Franco-Belgian Brussels, though this is offset
around 2 hours and Cologne border. Follow signs first to by a journey time of around
in under 3 hours. Brugge (Bruges), and then on 7 hours. Note that coaches
to Brussels. Those planning to are sometimes checked at the
use the Eurotunnel should border with France, so be sure
Arriving by Sea book tickets in advance and to keep passports handy. From
Belgium can easily be reached try to arrive early. Three trains Gare du Nord, the centre can
from the UK by ferries which per hour operate between be reached either by mainline
arrive several times a day. 6:30am and midnight, with SNCB trains, prémetro trams
Cross-Channel ferries run one train running hourly from or city buses. Small discounts
frequently from Dover to midnight to 6:30am. There are are available for travellers
Calais and Dunkirk, and from a number of special offers that aged under 26 and over 60.
Hull to Zeebrugge. Services are intermittently available. Megabus runs a daily service
are offered by several to Brussels from London’s
companies, including DFDS Victoria Coach station.
Seaways and P&O Ferries. Arriving by Coach Coaches arrive at Gare
Foot passengers do not usually Eurolines, a group of coach Centrale, close to the Grand
need to book, but those with companies forming Europe’s Place and with excellent
vehicles should always reserve largest coach network, metro and bus links to other
a space and arrive promptly. operates daily bus services areas of the city.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Delta Brussels South P&O Ferries
Tel (800) 241 4141 (US). Charleroi Airport Tel (0800) 130 0030.
Air Canada Tel (0)90 202 490. ∑ poferries.com
Tel (0871) 221 1222 (UK).
Tel (0871) 220 1111 (UK). ∑ charleroi-airport.
∑ aircanada.com ∑ delta.com Arriving by Car
com
British Airways easyJet Eurotunnel
Tel (0344) 493 0787 (UK). ∑ easyjet.com Arriving by Rail Tel 08443 35 35 35.
∑ britishairways.com Belgian & ∑ eurotunnel.com
KLM
Brussels Airlines Tel (020) 7660 0293 (UK). International Railway Arriving by Coach
Tel (02) 723 2345 Information
Tel (1 866) 434 0320
(Belgium). ∑ belgianrail.be Eurolines
(US).
∑ brusselsairlines.com Eurostar Tel (0871) 781 8177.
Tel (61 1) 30 039 2192
Tel 03432 186 186. ∑ eurolines.com
Brussels National (AUS).
Airport Information ∑ klm.com ∑ eurostar.com Megabus
∑ brusselsairport.be Thalys ∑ megabus.com
Flight Information: Lufthansa
Tel (07) 066 7788.
Tel 0900 70000. Tel (0371) 945 9747
∑ thalys.com
Airport Police: (UK).
Tel (02) 709. 6666. ∑ lufthansa.com Arriving by Sea
Customs:
Tel (02) 572 4640. Ryanair DFDS Seaways
Tax Refunds: Tel (0871) 246 0000. Tel (0871) 574 7235.
Tel (02) 578 9330. ∑ ryanair.com ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
Getting Around Brussels district of Ixelles and near

St-Gilles Town Hall.
Although its public transport system is clean, modern and Drivers in Brussels have a bad
efficient, Brussels is a city best explored on foot. Most of the reputation, and it is important to
key attractions for first-time visitors are within a short walk of be alert to traffic while crossing
the Grand Place, and the Art Nouveau architecture in Ixelles roads. Motorists are obliged to
stop at pedestrian crossings but
and Saint-Gilles is also best enjoyed on a leisurely stroll. For you will find that this rule is often
those anxious to see the main sights in limited time, the tram ignored. At traffic lights, drivers
and metro network covers most of the city at speed, while turning right or left may pay no
buses are useful for reaching more out-of-the-way areas. attention to the walker’s priority.
Although expensive, taxis are recommended for late-night It is essential to be careful even in
residential areas.
journeys. Cycling can be hazardous for the inexperienced.
Blue or white street signs are
placed on the walls of buildings
at one corner of a street, and
can be somewhat hard to
locate. Street names are always
in French first, then Flemish,
with the name in capital letters
and the street type in small
letters to the top left and
bottom right corners (for
example, Rue STEVIN straat).
Cycling
Bus at a stop in Brussels city centre Car traffic can be fierce, but
happily the number of cycle
Green Travel Several special tariffs are lanes is ever on the increase, as
Brussels is the perfect place to available, including discounts is the ease with which visitors
reduce your carbon footprint. for young adults aged under can rent a bike. One of the most
The centre is small enough to 26 and seniors, and weekend convenient ways is the Villo
make walking around its tickets, which reduce the price scheme. You can take a Villo
ancient cobbled streets one of by up to 40 per cent. unisex bike by the day or week,
the highlights of any visit, while paying online or at one of the
the use of bicycles is 180 cycle stations across the
encouraged through the Planning your Journey city. Use your credit card for the
imaginative Villo rental scheme If you are seeing Brussels by car, €150 deposit. The bike can be
and kilometres of bicycle lanes. avoid its major roads during parked or returned to any of the
Each September, a popular “car- rush hours, which are weekdays stations. Base rates are €1.60 per
free” day is held, when traffic is from 8 to 9:30am and 5 to 7pm day and €7.90 per week. Rates
banned and pedestrians and as well as Wednesday go up with usage.
cyclists take over the streets. lunchtimes during the school
Brussels also has an excellent year, when there is a half day.
public transport system, with a Tram and bus services run
highly integrated, affordable frequently at peak times and
metro, tram and bus network. are usually not too crowded.
The city is committed to an Eco- However, the small size of
drive scheme, reducing energy Brussels means that walking is
consumption by lowering often a viable option.
speeds on all modes of public
transport and accessing
electricity from renewable Walking in Brussels
sources for trams and metro The short distance between
trains, and the development sights and the interest in
of hybrid and fuel cell engines every corner make central
on its buses. Brussels easy to negotiate
There’s little need for a car on foot. Outside the city
even when you go beyond centre, walking is the only
Brussels. The other main cities way to appreciate the
aren’t that far away and are concentration of Art Nouveau
served by an excellent national buildings on and around Children enjoying the sights of
train network. Square Ambiorix, around the Brussels by bike
Metro stations in the city centre DIRECTORY

have electronic displays showing
where each train is in the system Useful Numbers
and all the stops on the route. STIB/MIVB
The older yellow trams are STIB info can be obtained at the
slowly being phased out. Unlike KIOSK info booths in many metro
newer models, these have no stations. Tel (070) 23 2000.
information on what the ∑ stib.be
upcoming stop is, so you need
Villo
to have a copy of the tram
Tel 078 05 1110 (hotline).
network or ask the driver to call
∑ villo.be
out the relevant stop.
As well as the main network,
a few bus services in the capital
are run by the Walloon transport Most international car rental
A city tram travelling down Rue Royale group (TEC) and the Flemish agencies have branches in
towards the city centre operator De Lijn. These services Brussels, many at the National
have lettered rather than Airport in Zaventem or at the
Travelling by Bus, Tram numbered codes, but most Gare du Midi, where the
and Metro tickets are valid on all the services. Eurostar, Thalys and other main
The authority governing train services arrive.
Brussels’ public transport is the The success of the Belgian
bilingual STIB/MVIB, which Driving in Brussels Mister Cash bank card means
runs buses, trams and metro Belgium drives on the right, and that many petrol stations, when
services in the capital. Tickets are the priorité à droite rule – which unattended on Sundays and out
valid on all three services, which means that the driver coming of hours, only accept this card, so
run between 5:30am and from the right at junctions has fill up during the week if possible.
12:30am on weekdays with absolute priority to pull out
shorter hours on Sundays and unless otherwise indicated –
public holidays. is enforced with Taking a Taxi
A single ticket, which sometimes startling Brussels’ taxis are fairly expensive,
allows unlimited regularity. Always watch but most journeys are short and
changes within 1 hour for vehicles coming cabs are the city’s only 24-hour
(excluding the Nato- from the right, no transport service. All taxis have
Brussels Airport Line 12), matter how small the a rooftop sign which is
costs €2.10. A five-trip road; some drivers have illuminated when the vehicle
Jump ticket costs €8; a been known to take is vacant. Cabs are generally
10-trip one €14. their priority even picked up at a taxi rank or
Single tickets can be One-day though it means a crash, ordered by phone rather than
bought on buses and travel pass secure in the knowledge flagged down on the street.
trams but cost €2.50. that they are legally Tips are included in the fare, but
Tickets should be stamped in correct. Always give way to an extra tip is usually expected.
the machines next to the exits; trams, who will ring their bells Give the taxi’s registration
you must restamp your ticket if should a car be blocking their number, its make and colour
the journey involves a change. path. Street parking, usually by when making a complaint.
STIB is gradually replacing meter, is becoming increasingly
transport tickets with a single difficult in the centre of the city.
pass, called MOBIB, which can Essential safety precautions
store different travel options at should be adhered to at all
the same time, such as a season times. Safety belts are
ticket, a ten-day journey or a obligatory in all seats, and
day pass, on an electronic chip. children under 12 years old are
The initial €5 cost of the MOBIB not allowed to sit in the front.
is offset by lower journey prices Drink-driving is illegal (the limit
than the Jump tickets. in Belgium is currently 0.5g/l),
At street level, metro stations as is talking on a mobile while
are marked by a large white “M” driving (though not on “hands
on a blue background. Tickets free” phones so far). The Belgian
must be bought and stamped police are notorious for
before you reach the platform. suddenly targeting an offence,
They can be obtained from so you might find one day
metro ticket offices and auto- they ignore you completely
mated machines inside stations, and the next give you a €50 Traffic on a busy main street in
as well as many newsagents. on-the-spot fine. central Brussels
Getting Around Belgium Flanders. It is worth getting

breakdown coverage before
As you might expect from a country that is small, modern and you leave, and you must have a
predominantly flat, Belgium is an extremely easy place in valid driving licence (from the
which to travel. The toll-free motorways compare favourably EU, US, Australia or Canada) or
an International Driving Licence
with any in France, train travel is swift and there are good bus
on your person. It is also essential
services in those areas not covered by the railway network. to have comprehensive
Intercity trains leave from all three of the city’s main stations insurance and/or a Green card.
and take 40 minutes to Antwerp (for information on getting Visitors are expected to carry a
around Antwerp, see p116), 40 minutes to Ghent (see p112) first-aid kit, a reflective orange or
and one hour to Bruges (see p100). Public transport is clean yellow jacket and a warning
triangle at all times.
and efficient and the range of touring tickets allows a great All the major car rental
deal of freedom and the ability to see the whole country agencies operate in Belgium,
inexpensively. In the level Flemish countryside to the north, although renting one can be an
hiking and cycling are pleasant ways to get around. expensive business. To hire a
vehicle, you must be 21 or over,
with a year’s driving experience,
and be in possession of a credit
card. A week’s rental with
unlimited mileage will cost €370
or more but might be reduced as
the big firms offer regular special
deals. Local rental agencies may
also be cheaper, but be sure to
check the terms and conditions.
Bicycle hire is available in
most Flemish towns with a
modest deposit of €15.
Travelling by Rail
Run by Belgian National Rail
ways (Société Nationale Chemins
The Belgian train network is fast and efficient de Fer Belges/ Belgische
Spoorwegen), Belgium’s train
Travelling by Car limits are reduced to as low as network provides a fast and
After the rather enervating traffic 20 kph in some residential areas economical means of getting
in Brussels, driving in the rest of and near schools. If you break to and from major towns and
Belgium comes as something of down, three motoring organi- cities. As most journeys are fairly
a relief. The motorways are fast, zations should be able to provide short, only light refreshments,
reasonably well maintained and assistance: Touring Club de including good Belgian beers,
toll-free, while major roads are Belgique, Royal Automobile are available on board.
also excellent. Drivers in cities Club de Belgique and Vlaamse Fares for standard second-class
outside the capital tend to be Automobilistenbond in tickets are calculated by distance,
more relaxed, although the
trend in Flanders for car-free city
French/Dutch Place Names
centres can make navigation
through them demanding. The One of the most confusing aspects of travel in Belgium is the
only difficulty most drivers come variation between French and Dutch spellings of town names. On
across is an occasional absence road signs in Brussels, both names are given, while in Flanders only
of clear signs for motorway exits the Dutch and in Wallonia only the French are shown. The following
and junctions, which can list gives main towns:
necessitate taking extra care French Dutch French Dutch
when approaching junctions (in Anvers Antwerpen Malines Mechelen
Flanders, many drivers are Ath Aat Mons Bergen
confused by signs for “Uitrit”. It Bruges Brugge Namur Namen
means exit). Bruxelles Brussel Ostende Oostende
Speed limits are 50 kph (30 Courtrai Kortrijk Saint-Trond Sint-Truiden
mph) in built-up areas, 120 kph Gand Gent Tongres Tongeren
(75 mph) on motorways and Liège Luik Tournai Doornik
dual carriageways and 90 kph (55 Louvain Leuven Ypres Ieper
mph) on all other roads. These
Travelling by Bus range of battlefield tours

While slower and less available. Check at local tourist
comfortable for travelling offices in Waterloo, Ypres and
between major cities, buses Bastogne for information on
come into their own in the guided visits to battlefields
more remote or rural areas of from the Napoleonic era to
the rest of Belgium, as well as World War II.
in city suburbs. In Flanders, Away from cities, Belgium
buses are run by the De Lijn also offers hiking and cycling
group; in Wallonia, the network excursions, ranging from one-
is operated by TEC. Fares day adventures to five-day
are calculated according to hikes. The Ardennes is a popular
distance, and are bought from destination for hikers, who can
the driver. Bus stops and appreciate the area’s flora and
terminals are generally close fauna as well as its history.
to railway stations. Buses have Contact the Wallonia-Brussels
priority on public roads, so tourist office for more details.
Train travelling through Belgium journeys are often swift.
on a spring evening DIRECTORY
so return tickets generally offer Specialist Tours
Travelling by Car
no savings and are usually valid Brussels is a city rich in culture
only until midnight. Children and there are many tours on Police Road Information
aged under six travel free, with offer to visitors. The Tourist and ∑ pol-fep.be
a maximum of four children Information Centre (see p177) in Royal Automobile Club de
allowed per adult, and those the city centre runs over 40 Belgique
aged between six and 11 receive walking, bus and car day tours Rue d’Arlon 53, 1040 Brussels.
a 50 per cent discount. that cover all of the capital Map 3 A3. Tel (02) 287 0911.
Special tariffs are with topics as diverse ∑ inforoutes.be
available for under-26s as “Humanist Brussels” Touring Club de Belgique
and senior citizens. and “Industrial Rue de la Loi 44, 1040 Brussels.
A variety of rail Belgium”. The focus Map 3 A2. Tel (070) 344777.
passes are available for Belgian railway is largely on the city’s
extensive travel. The logo exceptional range of art Vlaamse
Railpass (€76) allows ten and architecture, but Automobilistenbond
Pastoor Coplaan 100,
trips within Belgium over one many themes are covered.
Zwijndrecht. Tel (03) 253 61 30;
year. The Benelux Pass for In each major regional city,
breakdown: (078) 222222.
people resident in Europe costs detailed multi-lingual private
€118 for three days, €149 for 4 tours are available in the historic Travelling by Rail
days, €199 for 5 days or €239 for town centre; you should and Bus
8 days of travel in one calendar contact the city’s main tourist
month on trains throughout office for full information. De Lijn
Belgium, the Netherlands and Belgium's position as one ∑ delijn.be
Luxembourg. Prices are slightly of Europe's most fought over SNCB/BS (Belgian National
higher if you live outside Europe. territories is reflected in the Railways)
Tel (02) 528 2828.
TEC
∑ infotec.be
Specialist Tours
Arau
Boulevard Adolphe Max 55.
Map 1 A2. Tel (02) 219 3345.
∑ arau.org
La Fonderie
Rue Ransfort 27. Tel (02) 410
9950. Industrial heritage,
chocolate and beer walks.
∑ lafonderie.be
Wallonia-Brussels Tourist
Office
∑ opt.be
A long-distance bus in a city suburb in Belgium
180  STREET FINDER
BRUSSELS STREET FINDER

The page grid superimposed on the area maps in this section only. A street index
by area grid below shows which parts of follows on pp186–8. The key, set out below,
Brussels are covered in this Street Finder. indicates the scales of the maps and shows
The central Upper and Lower Town areas what other features are marked on them,
are marked in the colours that are also the including transport terminals, emergency
thumbtab colours throughout the book. services and information centres. All the
The map references for all sights, hotels, major sights are clearly marked so they are
restaurants, shopping and entertainment easy to locate. The map on the inside back
venues described in this guide refer to the cover shows public transport routes.
GA
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Major sight
Other sight
Other building
Metro station
Train station
Tram stop
Bus station
Tourist information
Hospital
Police station
Church
Railway line
Pedestrian street
Scale of Maps 1:11,500
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
Façade of La Maison des Ducs de Brabant, Grand Place (see pp46–7)
STREET FINDER  181
The Triumphal arch in the

Parc du Cinquantenaire,
built in 1905 (see pp78–9)
AIN
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0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Cathédrale Sts Michel et

Gudule (see pp74–5)
N D ER N D R E
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AV J O S N
PE E D
PI
C AA
N
RU
L
186  BRUSSELS STREET FINDER
Street Finder Index

All entries are listed in French, Belliard, Rue Cardinal, Rue du D
with the Dutch variant following Belliardstraat 2 F4 Kardinalstraat 3 B1
Dailly, Place
in Italics where applicable. cont 3 B3 Caserne, Rue de la
Dailly Plein 3 C1
Berceau, Rue de Kazernestraat 1 B4
Dam, Rue du
A Prieelstraat 3 A2 Celtes, Ave des
Keltenlaan 4 E4
Damstraat 1 B3
Berger, Rue du Damier, Rue du
A Gautier, Rue Cendres, Rue des
A Gautierstraat 3 C5 Herdersstraat 2 E5 Dambordstraat 2 D1
Berlaimont, Blvd de Asstraat 2 E1 Dekens, Rue
A Lynen, Rue Cerisiers, Ave des
A Lynenstraat 3 A1 Berlaimontlaan 2 E2 Dekensstraat 3 C4
Kerselarenlaan 4 F1 Delaunoy, Rue
Abattoir, Blvd de l’ Bischoffsheim, Blvd
Ch de Groux, Rue Delaunoystraat 1 A2
Slachthuislaan 1 A3 Bischoffsheimlaan 2 F2
Ch de Grouxstraat 4 E3 Deux Eglises, Rue des
Abattoir, Rue de l’ Bisse, Rue Champ de Mars, Rue du Tweekerkenstraat 3 A2
Slachthuisstraat 1 B3 Bissestraat 1 A4 Marsveldstraat 2 E5 Diamant, Ave du
Abbé Cuylits, Rue Blaes, Rue Chancellerie, Rue de la Diamantlaan 4 D1
Past Cuylitsstraat 1 A3 Blaestraat 1 C5 Kanselarijkstraat 2 E3 Dinant, Place de
Accolay, Rue d’ Blanchisserie, Rue de la Chapeliers, Rue du 1 C3 Dinantplein 1 C4
Accolaystraat 1 C4 Blekerijstraat 2 E1 Chapelle, Place de la Drapiers, Rue des
Adolphe Max, Blvd Bodeghem, Rue Kappellemarkt 1 C4 Lakenweverstraat 2 E5
Adolphe Maxlaan 2 D1
Bodegemstraat 1 B3 Charlemagne, Blvd Dublin, Rue de
Alexiens, Rue des
Bodenbroeck, Rue Karel de Grotelaan 3 B2 Dublinstraat 2 F5
Cellebroersstraat 1 C4
Bodenbroeckstraat 2 D4 Charles Martel, Rue Ducale, Rue
Alliance, Rue de l’
Bogards, Rue des Karel Martelstraat 3 B2 Hertogstraat 2 F3
Verbondstraat 2 F2
Boogardenstraat 1 C3 Charles Quint, Rue Duquesnoy, Rue des
Alsace Lorraine,
Bois à Bruler, Quai aux Keizer Karelstraat 3 C3 Duquesnoystraat 2 D3
Rue d’Elzas
Lotharingenstraat 2 F5 Brandhoutkaai 1 C1 Chartreux, Rue des
Ambiorix, Square 3 B2 Boiteux, Rue des Kartuizersstraat 1 C2 E
Amigo, Rue de l’ Kreupelenstraat 2 D2 Chasse, Ave de la
E de Thibault, Ave E de
Vruntstraat 1 C3 Jachtlaan 4 D5
Borne, Rue de la Thibaultlaan 4 E5
Anderlecht, Rue d’ Chaux, Quai à la
Paalstraat 1 A1 E Pierron, Rue
Anderlechtsesteenweg 1 B3 Kalkkaai 1 C1
Botanique, Rue E Pierronstraat 1 A2
Anneessens, Rue Chêne, Rue de
Kruidtuinstraat 2 E1 E Solvay, Rue
Anneessensstraat 1 B2 Elkstraat 1 C3
Bouchers, Rue des E Solvaystraat 2 E5
Anoul, Rue Chevalerie, Ave de la
Beenhouwerstraat 2 D2 Eburons, Rue des
Anoulstraat 2 F5 Ridderschapslaan 4 D4 Eburonsstraat 3 B2
Anspach, Blvd Bougie, Rue de la Chevaliers, Rue des Ecole, Rue de l’
Anspachlaan 1 C3 Waskaarsstraat 1 A3 Riddersstraat 2 E5 Schoolstraat 1 A1
Antoine Dansaert, Rue Boulet, Rue du Chevreuil, Rue du Ecuyer, Rue de l’
Antoine Kogelstraat 1 B2 Reebokstraat 1 C5 Schildknaapsstraat 2 D2
Dansaertstraat 1 B2 Brabançonne, Ave de la Chimiste, Rue du Edimbourg, Rue d’
Archimède, Rue Brabanconnelaan 3 C1 Scheikundigestraat 1 A3 Edinburgstraat 2 E5
Archimedestraat 3 B2 Braemt, Rue Choux, Rue aux Egmont, Rue d’
Arenberg, Rue d’ Braemtstraat 3 A1 Koolstraat 2 D1 Egmontstraat 2 F4
Arenbergstraat 2 D2 Braie, Rue de la Cible, Rue de l’ Elephant, Rue de l’
Argent, Rue d’ Moutstraat 1 B2 Scheitschifstraat 3 B1 Olifantstraat 1 A1
Zilverstraat 2 D2 Brand Whitlock, Blvd Cinéma, Rue du Emile Jacqmain, Blvd
Arlon, Rue d’ Kinemastraat 1 A1 Emile Jacqmainlaan 2 D1
Brand Whitlocklaan 4 F3
Aarlenstraat 3 A3 Cirque Royale Emile Max, Ave
Bréderode, Rue
Artichaut, Rue de l’ Koninklijk Circus 2 F2 Emile Maxlaan 4 D1
Artisjokstraat 3 A2 Brederode straat 2 E4
Cirque, Rue du Empereur, Blvd de l’
Artois, Rue d’ Breydel, Rue
Circusstraat 2 D1 Keizerslaan 2 D3
Artoisstraat 1 B4 Breydelstraat 3 B3 Clemenceau, Ave Enseignment, Rue de l’
Assaut, Rue d’ Brigittinnes, Rue des Clemenceaulaan 1 A4 Onderrichtsstraat 2 E2
Stormstraat 2 D2 Brigittinenstraat 1 C4 Clinique, Rue de la Epargne, Rue de l’
Association, Rue de l’ Briques, Quai aux Kliniekstraat 1 A4 Spaarstraat 2 D1
Verenigingstraat 2 F2 Baksteenkaai 1 C1 Clocher, Rue du Eperonniers, Rue des
Astronomie, Ave de l’ Brochet, Rue du Kloktorenstraat 3 C4 Spoormakersstraat 2 D3
Sterrenkundelaan 2 F2 Snoekstraat 3 B5 Clovis, Blvd de Ernest Allard, Rue
Auderghem, Ave d’ Brogniez, Rue Clovislaan 3 B1 Ernest Allardstraat 2 D5
Oudergemselaan 3 C4 Brogniezstraat 1 A4 Colonel van Gele, Rue Escadron, Rue de l’
Auguste Reyers, Brouckère, Place de Kolonel Van Gelestraat 3 C4 Eskadronstraat 4 F5
Boulevard Colonies, Rue des Escalier, Rue de l’
Brouckereplein 1 D2
Auguste Reyerslaan 4 E1 Kolonienstraat 2 E3 Trapstraat 2 D3
Autonomie, Rue de l’ Broyère, Rue
Comédiens, Rue des Etang, Rue de l’
Zelfbestuursstraat 1 A4 Broyerestraat 1 A3 Vijverstraat 3 B5
Buanderie, Rue de la Komediantenstraat 2 D2
Avenir, Rue de l’ Etterbeek, Chaussée d’
Washuisstraat 1 B3 Comète, Rue de la
Toekomststraat 1 B1 Etterbeeksesteenweg 3 B3
Staarsterstraat 2 F1
Commune, Rue de la Etuve, Rue de l’
B C Gemeentestraat 3 A1
Stoofstraat 1 C3
Eugène Plasky, Ave
Banque, Rue de la Calvin, Rue Comte de Flandre, R du
Eugene Plaskylaan 4 D1
Bankstraat 2 E2 Calvijnstraat 3 C1 Graaf Van
Eugène Plasky, Square 4 D1
Place Bara Camusel, Rue laanderenstraat 1 B1
Europe, Blvd de l’
Baraplein 1 A4 Confédéres, Rue des Europlaan 1 A5
Camuselstraat 1 B3
Bara, Rue Eedgenotenstraat 3 C1 Eveque, Rue de l’
Canal, Rue du
Barastraat 1 A5 Congrès, Rue du Bisschopsstraat 2 D2
Vaartstraat 1 C1
Barbes, Quai aux Congresstraat 2 F2
Canon, Rue du Cornet, Rue de
Shuteitenkaai
Baron Lambert, Rue
1 C1
Kanonstraat 2 E1 Hoornstraat 3 C4 F
Baron Lambertstraat 3 C5 Capitaine Crespel, Rue Croix de Fer, Rue de la F Brunfaut, Rue
Barricades, Place des Kapitein Crespelstraat 2 D5 Ijzerenkruisstraat 2 F2 F Brunfautstraat 1 A1
Barricadenplein 2 F2 Capucins, Rue des Cuerens, Rue Fabriques, Rue des
Barthélémy, Blvd Kapucijnnenstaat 1 C5 Cuerensstraat 1 B3 Fabriekstraat 1 B2
Barthelemylaan 1 B2 Card Mercier, Rue du Cureghem, Rue de Faucon, Rue du
Beffroi, Rue du Belfortstraat 3 C1 Kard Mercierstraat 2 D3 Kureghemstraat 1 B3 Valkstraat 1 C5
BRUSSELS STREET FINDER  187
Ferme, Rue de la
Hoevestraat 3 A1
Grand Hospice, Rue du
Grootgodshuisstraat 1 C1
L Marteau, Rue du
Hamerstraat 3 A2
Fetis, Rue Grand Place L Crickx, Rue Martyrs, Place des 2 D2
Fetisstraat 3 C5 Grote Markt 2 D3 L Crickxstraat 1 A4 Maurice Lemonnier, Blvd
Fiance, Rue de la Grand Sablon, Place du L Mahillon, Ave Maurice Lemonnierlaan 1 B4
Bruidsstraat 2 D1 Grote Zavelplein 2 D4 L Mahillonlaan 4 D1 Meeus, Square de
Fiennes, Rue de Grand Serment, Rue du L Titz, Rue de Meeus Square 2 F4
Fiennesstraat 1 A5 Grand Sermentstraat 1 B2 L Titzstraat 4 D4 Megissiers, Rue des
Fin, Rue Grande Haie, Rue de la Lacomble, Ave Zeemtouwerstraat 1 A3
Finstraat 1 Grote Haagstraat 4 E5 Lacomblelaan 4 E1 Memling, Rue
Flandre, Rue de Grande Ile, Rue de la Laeken, Rue de
Memlingstraat 1 A4
Vlaamsesteenweg 1 B1 Groot Eilandstraat 1 C3 Lakensestraat 1 C1
Ménages, Rue des
Fleuristes, Rue des Gravelines, Rue des Laines, Rue aux
Grevelingenstraat 3 B1 Huishhoudenstraat 1 B5
Bloemistenstraat 1 B5 Wolstraat 2 D5
Gray, Rue Lavoir, Rue de Menapiens, Rue des
Fleurs, Rue aux
Graystraat 3 B5 Wasserrijstraat 1 B5 Menapiensstraat 4 E4
Bloemenstraat 2 D1
Foin, Quai au Gretry, Rue Le Colonne, Rue de Meridien, Rue du
Hooikaai 1 C1 Gretrystraat 2 D2 Kolomstraat 1 A1 Middaglijnstraat 2 F1
Fonsny, Ave Grimberghe, Rue E de Lebeau, Rue Merode, Rue de
Fonsnylaan 1 B5 E de Grimberghestraat 1 A1 Lebeaustraat 2 D4 Merodestraat 1 B5
Fontaine, Rue de la Grisar, Rue Lemmens, Place à 1 A3 Michel Ange, Ave
Fontainestraat 1 B4 Grisarstraat 1 A5 Leonardo de Vinci, R Michel Angelolaan 3 C2
Fosse aux Loups, R du Guildes, Rue des Leonardo de Vincistraat 4 D2 Midi, Blvd du
Wolvengracht 2 D2 Gildenstraat 3 A1 Léopold, Rue Zuidlaan 1 B4
Foulons, Rue des Guimard, Rue Leopoldstraat 2 D2 Midi, Rue du
Voldersstraat 1 B4 Guimardstraat 2 F3 Lepage, Rue Zuidstraat 1 C3
Francart, Rue Lepagestraat 1 B1 Minimes, Rue des
Francartstr 2 F5 H Liberté, Place de la 3 F2 Minimenstraat 1 C5
France, Rue de Ligne, Rue de Miroir, Rue du
Frankrijkstraat 1 A5 Haberman, Rue Lignestraat 2 E2 Spiegelstraat 1 C4
Francs, Rue des Habermanstraat 1 A3 Limnander, Rue Mons, Chaussée de
Frankenstraat 4 E4 Haerne, Rue de Limnanderstraat 1 A4 Bergensesteenweg 1 A3
Franklin, Rue Haernestraat 3 B5 Linthout, Rue de
Hainaut, Quai du Mont des Arts
Franklinstraat 3 C2 Linthoutstraat 4 E2 Kunstberg 2 D3
Fred Pelletier, Rue Henegouwenkaai 1 A2 Liverpool, Rue de
Halles, Rue des Montagne aux Herbes
Fred Pelletierstraat 4 E2 Liverpoolstraat 1 A3 Potagères, Rue
Fripiers, Rue des Hallenstraat 1 C2 Livingstone, Ave
Haute, Rue Warmoesbergstraat 2 D2
Kleerkopersstraat 2 D2 Livingstonelaan 3 B1 Montagne, Rue de la
Hoogstraat 1 C4 Locquenghien, Rue
Froissart, Rue Bergstraat 2 D3
Hectolitre, Rue de l’ Locquenghienstraat 1 B1
Froissartstraat 3 B4
Hectoliterstraat 1 B5 Montgomery, Square
Front, Ave du Loi, Rue de la
Heyvaert, Rue Montgomery Plein 4 F4
Frontlaan 4 E5 Wetstraat 2 F3
Heyvaertstraat 1 A2 Montserrat, Rue de
Fulton, Rue cont 3 A2
Hôpital, Rue de l’ Montserratstraat 1 C5
Fultonstraat 4 D2 Lombard, Rue de
Gasthuisstraat 2 D3 Musin, Rue
Lombardstraat 1 C3
Houblon, Rue du Musinstraat 2 F1
G Hopstraat 1 B2
Louise, Ave
Louizalaan 2 D5
Hydraulique, Rue
G Capiaumont, Rue
Waterkrachtstraat 3 A2
Louise, Place N
G Capiaumontstraat 3 B5 Louizaplein 2 D5
G de Boullion, Rue Louvain, Chaussée de Namur, Rue de
G de Boullionstraat 2 F1 I Leuvensesteenweg 3 A1 Naamsestraat 2 E4
G Gratry, Rue Louvain, Place de Natation, Rue de la
Impératrice, Blvd de l’ Zwemkunststraat 3 B5
G Gratrystraat 4 E2 Leuvenseplein 2 E2
Keizerinlaan 2 D3 Nerviens, Ave des
G Lartigue, Ave Louvain, Rue de
Industrie, Rue de l’
G Lartiguelaan 4 F2 Leuvenseweg 2 F3 Nervierslaan 4 C4
Nijverheidsstraat 2 F4
G Petre, Ave Loxum, Rue de Neuve, Rue
Ixelles, Chaussée d’
G Petrelaan 3 B2 Elsenesteenweg 2 E5 Loksumstraat 2 D3 Nieuwstraat 2 D2
G Tombeur, Rue Luxembourg, Place du Nieuport, Blvd de
G Tombeurstraat 4 D5 Luxemburg Plein 3 B2 Nieuwpoortlaan 1 B1
Gand, Chaussée de J Ninove, Chaussée de
Gentsesteenweg
Gare, Rue de la
1 A1 J de Lalaing, Rue M Ninoofsesteenweg
Niveau, Rue du
1 A2
J de Lalaingstraat 3 A3
Stationstraat 4 E4 J F Kennedy, Ave Madeleine, Rue de la Waterpasstraat 1 A1
Gaulois, Ave des J F Kennedylaan 3 C3 Magdalenasteenweg 2 D3 Nord, Rue du
Gallierslaan 4 D4 J W Wilson, Rue Maelbeek, Ave du Noordstraat 2 F2
Général Henry, Rue J W Wilsonstraat 3 B1 Maalbeeklaan 3 B4 Notre Seigneur, Rue
General Henrystraat 4 D5 Jamar, Blvd Major R Dubreucq, Rue Onsheerstraat 1 C4
Général Leman, Rue Jamarlaan 1 A4 Majoor R Dubreucqstraat 2 F5 Nouveau Marché aux Grains,
General Lemanstraat 3 C4 Jamblinne de Meux, Pl Malines, Rue de
Place du
Georges Henri, Ave Jamblinne de Meux Plain 4 D2 Mechelsestraat 2 D1
Nieuw Graanmarkt 1 B2
Georges Henrilaan 4 F3 Jardin Botanique, Marais, Rue du
Noyer, Rue du
Gérard, Rue Blvd du Broekstraat 2 E2
Notelaarsstraat 4 D2
Gerardstraat 4 E3 Kruidtuinlaan 2 E1 Marché au Charbon, R du
Gheude, Rue Kolenmarkt 1 C3 Noyer, Rue du
Jardins Felix Hap Tuin 3 C5 Notelaarstraat 3 C1
Gheudestraat 1 A4 Jeu de Balle, Place du 1 C5 Marché aux Fromages,
Gillon, Rue Jonniaux, Rue Rue du 2 D3
Gillonstraat 2 F1 Jonniauxstraat 3 C4 Marché aux Herbes, R du O
Gineste, Rue Joseph II, Rue Grasmarkt 2 D3
Ginestestraat 2 E1 Marché aux Poulets, R du Odon, Rue
Jozef II Straat 3 A2
Godecharle, Rue Kiekenmarkt 1 C2 Odonstraat 1 A3
Jourdan, Place
Godecharlestraat 3 A4 Marcq, Rue Onze Novembre, Ave du
Jourdan Plein 3 B4
Goffart, Rue Marcqstraat 1 C1 Elf Novemberlaan 4 D5
Joyeuse Entrée, Ave de la
Goffartstraat 3 A5 Blijde Inkomstlaan 3 C3 Marguerite, Square Ophem, Rue d’
Gouvernement Provisoire, Rue Margereta Square 3 C2 Oppemstraat 1 C1
du Marie José, Ave Orient, Rue de l’
Voorlopig Bewindstraat 2 F2 K Marie Joselaan 4 F2 Morgenlandstraat 3 B5
Grand Cerf, Rue du Keyenveld, Rue Marie-Louise, Square Otlet, Rue
Grotehertstraat 2 D5 Keyenveldstraat 2 E5 Maria-Louiza Square 3 B2 Otletstraat 1 A4
Grand Duc, Rue Knapen, Rue Mariniers, Rue des Oultremont, Rue d’
Groothertogstraat 3 C5 Knapenstraat 4 F2 Schippersstraat 1 B1 Oultremontstraat 4 E3
188  BRUSSELS STREET FINDER
P Q Sols, Rue des

Stuiversstraat 2 D3
Ursulines, Rue des
Ursulinienstraat 1 C4
Pacheco, Blvd Quatre Bras, Rue de Spa, Rue de
Pachecolaan
Pacification, Rue de la
2 E2 Vierarmenstraat
Quatre Vents,
2 D5 Spastraat
St Alphonse, Rue
3 A2
V
Pacificatiestraat 3 A1 Vierwindenstraat 1 A1 St Alfonsstraat 3 A1 Van Artevelde, Rue
Palais, Place des Quetelet, Place 2 F1 St Boniface, Rue Van Arteveldestraat 1 B3
Paleizplein 2 E4 St Bonifacestraat 2 E5 Van Bemmel, Rue
Palmerston, Ave R St Ghislain, Rue
St Ghisleinstraat 1 C5
Van Bemmelstraat 3 A1
Palmerstonlaan 3 B2 Van der Elst, Rue
R Pequeur, Square 1 A4 St Jean, Rue Van der Elststraat 2 D1
Parc de Bruxelles
R Schuman, Rond Point St Jansstraat 2 D3 Van Helmont, Rue
Warande 2 E3 R Schuman Plein 3 B3 St Josse, Rue Van Helmontstraat 1 C3
Parc du Cinquantenaire Ransfort, Rue St Jooststraat 3 A1 Van Maerlant, Rue
Jubelpark 3 C3 Ransfortstraat 1 A2 St Josse, Place Van Maerlantstraat 3 B3
Parc Léopold 3 A4 Rasière, Rue de la St Joost Plein 3 A1
Parlement Européen 3 A4 Van Male de Ghorian, Rue
Sistervatstraat 1 C5 St Laurent, Rue
Passchendaele, Rue de Rasson, Rue Van Male de Ghorianstraat
St Laurensstraat 2 E2
Passendalestraat 1 B1 Rassonstraat 4 D1 1 A1
St Lazare, Rue
Patriotes, Rue des Ravenstein, Rue Van Orly, Rue
St Lazarusstraat 2 E1
Patriottenstraat 3 C2 Ravensteinstraat 2 E3 Van Orlystraat 2 F1
St Marie, Rue
Paul-Henri Spaak, Ave Rectangle, Rue du St Mariastraat 1 B1 Van Volsem, Rue
Paul-Henri Spaaklaan 1 A5 Rechthoekstraat 1 A2 St Martin, Rue Van Volsemstraat 3 A5
Pavie, Rue de Régence, Rue de la St Maartenstraat 1 A2 Vandenbranden, Rue
Paviastraat 3 B1 Regent Schapsstraat 2 D4 St Michel, Blvd Vandenbrandenstraat 1 B2
Pélican, Rue du Regent, Blvd de St Michellaan 4 F5 Vandenbroeck, Rue
Pelikaanstraat 2 D1 Regentlaan 2 F3 St Michel, Rue Vandenbroeckstraat 3 A5
Pepin, Rue du Rembrandt, Rue St Michielstraat 2 D1 Vautier, Rue
Kernstraat 2 E4 Rembrandtstraat 3 C2 St Pierre, Place Vautierstraat 3 A4
Rempart des Moines, R du St Pieters Plein 4 D4 Vautour, Rue du
Pepinière, Rue de la
Papenveststraat 1 B2 St Pierre, Rue Gierstraat 1 B3
Boomkwekerijstraat 2 E4
Renaissance, Ave de la St Pietersstraat 2 D1 Verbist, Rue
Père de Deken, Rue
Renaissancelaan 4 D3 St Quentin, Rue Verbiststraat 3 B1
Pater de Dekenstraat 4 E4 Renards, Rue des St Quentinstraat 3 B2 Verdure, Rue de la
Père E Devroye, Rue Vossenstraat 1 C5 St Lazare, Blvd Loofstraat 1 B3
Pere E Devroyestraat 4 F5 Riches Claires, Rue des St Lazaruslaan 2 E1 Vergote, Square 4 F2
Perle, Rue de la Parelstraat 1 A1 Rijke Klarenstraat 1 C3 Stalingrad, Ave de
Petit Sablon, Place du Verviers, Rue de
Rinsdelle, Place du Stalingradlaan 1 B4 Verviersstraat 3 A2
Kleine Zavelplein 2 D4 Rinsdelle Plein 4 D5 Stassart, Rue de Viaduc, Rue du
Petits Carmes, Rue des Rogations, Ave des Stassartstraat 2 E5 Viaductstraat 3 A5
Karmelietenstraat 2 D4 Kruisdagenlaan 4 E3 Ste Catherine, Place 1 C2 Victor Hugo, Rue
Philippe le Bon, Rue Roger van der Weyden, Rue Stevens, Rue Victor Hugostraat 4 D1
Philippe le Bonstraat 3 A2 Roger van der Weydenstraat Stevensstraat 2 D4 Victoria Regina, Ave
Philippe de Champagne, Rue 1 B4 Stevin, Rue
Rogier, Place 2 D1 Victoria Reginalaan 2 E1
Philippe de Champagnestraat Stevinstraat 3 A2
Roodebeek, Ave de Vierge Noire, Rue
1 C4
de la Zwarte
Pieremans, Rue
Pieremansstraat 1 C5
Roodebeeklaan
Rosée, Rue de la
4 F1
T Lievevrouwstraat 1 C2
Dauwstraat 1 A3 T Vincotte, Rue Vierges, Rue des
Pierres de Taille, Quai aux
Roue, Rue de la T Vincottestraat 3 B1 Maagdenstraat 1 B3
Arduinkaai 1 C1
Radstraat 1 C4 Taciturne, Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains, Rue du
Pierres, Rue des
Rouleau, Rue du Willem de Oude Graanmarkt 1 C2
Steenstraat 1 C3
Rolstraat 1 C1 Zwijgerstraat 3 B2 Visitandines, Rue des
Plantin, Rue
Rouppe, Place Tanneurs, Rue des Visitandinenstraat 1 C4
Plantinstraat 1 A4
Rouppe Plein 1 C4 Huide vettersstraat 1 B5
Pletinckx, Rue
Pletinckxstraat 1 B2
Royale, Place
Koningsplein 2 E4
Taxandres, Rue des
Taxandresstraat 4 E4
W
Poelaert, Place Royale, Rue Teinturiers, Rue des Wappers, Place
Poelaert Plein 2 D5 Koningsstraat 2 E2 Verversstraat 1 C3 Wappers Plein 4 D2
Poincaré, Blvd Russie, Rue de Terre Neuve, Rue Waterloo, Blvd de
Poincarelaan 1 B4 Ruslandstraat 1 B5 Nieuw Landstraat 1 B4 Waterloolaan 2 E5
Poinçon, Rue du Tervuren, Ave de Watteau, Rue
Priemstraat
Pont Neuf, Rue du
1 C4
S Tervurenlaan
T’kint, Rue
4 E4 Watteeustraat
Wauwermans, Rue
2 D4
Nieuw Brugstraat 2 D1 Sables, Rue des T’kintstraat 1 B3 Wauwermansstraat 3 B1

Porte de Hal, Ave de la Zandstraat 2 E2 Toison, Ave de la Wavre, Chaussée de
Hallepoortlaan 1 B5 Sablonnière, Rue de la Guldenvlieslaan 2 E5 Waversesteenweg 2 F5
Post, Rue de la Zaveputstraat 2 F1 Tongres, Rue des cont 3 C5
Poststraat 2 F1 Sablons, Rue des Tongerestraat 4 E3 Wayenberg, Rue
Potagère, Rue Zavel Straat 2 D4 Toulouse, Rue de Waaienbergstraat 3 B5
Warmoesstraat 2 F2 Samaritaine, Rue de la Toulousestraat 3 A3
Wéry, Rue
Poterie, Rue de la Samaritainessestraat 2 D4 Traversière, Rue
Sans Souci, Rue Werystraat 3 A5
Poteriestraat 1 A3 Dwarsstraat 2 F1
Sans Soucistraat 3 A5 Wiertz, Rue
Poudrière, Rue de la Treurenberg,
Saxe Cobourg, Rue Wiertzstraat 3 A4
Treurenberg 2 E3
Kruitmolenstraat 1 B2 Willems, Rue
Sasken Coburgstraat 3 A1 Trèves, Rue de
Prado, Rue du Sceptre, Rue du Willemsstraat 3 A1
Trierstraat 3 A4
Pradostraat 1 A1 Scepterstraat 3 A5 Witte de Haelen, Rue de
Triangle, Place du 1 A2
Prekelinden, Ave Senne, Rue de la Trône, Rue du Witte de Haelenstraat 1 B1
Prekelindenlaan 4 F2 Zennestraat 1 B3 Troonstraat 2 F5 Wynants, Rue
Prince Heritier, Ave Sgt de Bruyne, Rue Sgt de cont 3 A5 Wynantsstraat 1 C5
Prince Heritierlaan 4 F2 Bruynestraat 1 A4
Prosperité, Rue de la
Voorspoedstraat 1 B1
Six Jetons, Rue des
Zespenningenstraat 1 B3
U Y
Putterie, Rue des Soignies, Rue de Unie, Rue de l’ Yser, Ave de l’
Putterij 2 D3 Zinnikstraat 1 B3 Unionstraat 2 F1 Ijzerlaan 4 D3
GENERAL INDEX  189
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main Autoworld 12, 79 Bruce, Lord 72, 83
entries Autumn in Brussels 30–31 Brueghel, Jan the Elder 20, 21
Avenue Louise 87 Brueghel, Jan the Younger 20
A Aymon brothers 129 Brueghel, Pieter the Elder 20, 21, 50,
Abbaye de la Cambre 87 70, 121, 128
Académie Royale de Belgique 61 B The Fall of Icarus 20
Accommodation 138–43 Baes, Jean 56–7 Brueghel, Pieter the Younger 20, 70
Admission charges 170–71 Baldwin Iron-Arm, Count of Flanders The Census at Bethlehem 66
Adoration of the Magi (Rubens) 123 112 Bruges 10–11, 13, 95, 96, 98–109
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (van Banking 173 entertainment 166, 167
Eyck) 20, 112 Basilique Nationale du Sacré-Coeur Groeningemuseum 104–5
Adornes family 106 18, 89 Gruuthusemuseum 102–3
Air travel 174, 175 The Battle of Pavia (Orley) 26 history 33, 34
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treaty of Battlefields, World War I 134–5 hotels 143
(1748) 37 Baudelaire, Charles 40 lace 26, 27
Alba, Duke d’ 35 Baudouin I, King 41 restaurants 156–7
Albert, Archduke 36, 124 Bavo, St 112 shopping 162, 163
Albert I, King 40, 83 Bed-and-breakfasts 139 Street-by-Street map 98–9
Albert II, King 41, 90 Beer 148–9 walk 108–9
Alechinsky, Pierre 21 Musée Gueuze (Anderlecht) 88–9 Bruges Matin (1302) 101
Allegory of Hope (tapestry) 34 shopping 161–2, 163 Brugse Vrije museum (Bruges) 100
Alley of the Blind Donkey (Bruges) Stella Artois Brewery (Leuven) 130 Brunfaut, Jules 22
99, 100 Béguine movement 57 Bruparck 13, 91
Ambulances 172 Begijnhof (Bruges) 103 Brussels European Film Festival 29
Anderlecht 88–9 Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au- Brussels Rollers 29
Anne of Cleves 64 Béguinage 56, 81 Brussels Short Film Festival 28
Anneessens metro station 21 Groot Begijnhof (Leuven) 131 Brussels Twenty-Kilometre Race 29
The Annunciation (Master of Klein Begijnhof (Ghent) 115 Bruxella 1238 51
Flémalle) 66 Belfort (Bruges) 10, 13, 99, 101 Bruxelles-Capitale 40, 85
Antiques Fair 31 Belfort (Ghent) 13, 111, 113 Bruyn, Guillaume de 47
Antiques shops 161, 163 Belgian Congo 40, 41 Budget travel 139, 144
Antwerp 11, 95, 116–27 Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale Buls, Charles 82, 83
artists 21 89 Bureaux de change 173
entertainment 166, 167 Belgian National Day 30 The Burg (Bruges) 10, 100
Grote Markt 118–19 Beluik der Gefusilleerden (Bruges) Burgundy 34–5
history 33, 36 106 Burgundy, Dukes of 26, 63, 95, 109
hotels 143 BELvue Museum 62 Bury, Pol 21
Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Benelux Union 41 Buses 174, 176, 177, 179
Kunsten 122–3 Berge, Jacques 72 Butte du Lion (Waterloo) 133
map 116–17 Berlaymont building 12, 76 Buuren, David and Alice 88
restaurants 158–9 Bernhardt, Sarah 53
Rubenshuis 124–5 Bevere, Maurice de (Morris) 24, 54 C
shopping 162, 163 Bibliothèque Royale Albert I 83 Caesar, Julius 33, 118, 130
walk 126–7 Bicycles 176 Cafés 144, 145
Antwerp Zoo 126 BIFFF 28 Cambrai, Bishop of 33, 50
Apartments, self-catering 139 The Birthday of Manneken Pis 30 Canadian Forces Memorial 134
Arcades, shopping 160–61, 163 Biscuits, shopping 161, 163 Canals, Antwerp 117
Archers’ guild 107 Bladelin, Pieter 109 Carolingian dynasty 33
Architecture Blanche beers 149 Carpentier, Eugene 56
Brussels’ Best 18–19 Blondeel, Lanceloot 100 Cars 175
Brussels’ Best: Art Nouveau 22–3 Boch, Anna 65 Autoworld 12, 79
Archway, Parc du Cinquantenaire Bois de la Cambre 87 driving in Brussels 176, 177
78, 79 Boniface, St 87 getting around Belgium
Arentshuis Museum (Bruges) 101 Bookshops 162, 163 178, 179
Ars Musica 31 Bordiau, Gédéon 79 see also Tours by car
Art Bortier, Monsieur 74 Castles
Comic strip art 24–5 Bosch, Hieronymus 21, 115 Gaasbeek (Pajottenland) 129
Underground art 21 Last Judgement 104 Het Gravensteen (Ghent) 114
see also Museums and galleries Le Botanique 12, 13, 53 Cathedrals
Art and Industry Expo (1880) 78 Boterhuis (Bruges) 109 Cathedral of Our Lady (Antwerp)
Art Brussels 28 Boulenger, Hippolyte 65 94
Art Nouveau 18, 40, 71 La Bourse 12, 13, 16, 51, 80 Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule
artists 20–21 Bourse metro station 21 12, 13, 19, 74–5, 83
Brussels’ Best 22–3 Bouts, Dirk 20, 70, 130 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal
Horta Museum 86 Brabant, Dukes of 20, 33, 34, 60, 61, (Antwerp) 11, 117, 119, 127
As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes 62–3 St Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 11, 13,
(Jordaens) 123 The Brabo Fountain (Antwerp) 118 111, 112
The Assumption of the Virgin Brabo, Silvius 96, 118, 127 St Romboutskathedraal
(Rubens) 67 Brangwyn, Frank 101 (Mechelen) 128
Astrid, Queen 126 Breakfasts 138, 145 St Salvators-Kathedraal (Bruges)
Ath 133 Breuer, Marcel 113 103
ATMs 160, 173 Breydel, Jan 101, 108 see also Churches in Brussels
The Atomium 13, 84, 91 Broodthaers, Marcel 21, 115 Cauchie, Paul 23
Austria 37 Brosella Folk and Jazz Festival 29 Cavell, Edith 106
190  GENERAL INDEX
Cemeteries Concertgebouw (Bruges) 101 Eglise Sts-Pierre-et-Guidon

French Memorial and Ossuary 135 Coninck, Pieter de 101, 108 (Anderlecht) 88, 89
Langemark 134 Conscience, Hendrik 126 Egmont, Count 35, 73, 129
Tyne Cot Cemetery 134 Conseil des Troubles 35 Einstein, Albert 53, 77
The Census at Bethlehem (Brueghel) Le Cornet 47 Elisabeth, Princess 41
66 The Coudenberg 62, 83 Emergencies 172
Centraal Station (Antwerp) 126 Coudenberg Palace 60, 62–3 English Convent (Bruges) 107, 109
Cézanne, Paul 21 Couleur Café Festival 29 Enlightenment 37
Chambon, Alban 53 Council of Ministers (EU) 76 Ensor, James 21, 65, 71, 122
Chambres d’hôte (bed-and- Counter-Reformation 36 Entertainment 164–7
breakfasts) 139 Craenenburg (Bruges) 108 Antwerp 166, 167
Chapelle de la Madeleine 75 Credit cards 160, 173 Bruges 166, 167
Chapelle Royale 83 Crime 172 Ghent 166, 167
Charlemagne, Emperor 33, 129 Cromwell, Oliver 107 Erasmus 88, 130
Charles I, King of England 107 Curie, Marie 53, 77 Etiquette, in restaurants 145
Charles II, King of England 101 Currency exchange 173 Europe Day Festivities 28
Charles II, King of Spain 47 Customs and immigration 170 European Commission 76
Charles V, Emperor 27, 35, 63, 74, Cutsem, Henri van 65 European Union (EU) 33, 41
102, 128 Cycling 176 Parliament Quarter 19, 77
Charles VI, Emperor 37 Quartier Européen 12, 13, 76
Charles the Bald 33 D Evenepoel, Henri, The Orange Market
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy Dance 164, 167 at Blidah 71
101, 128 David, Gerard 104 Events 28–31
Charles of Lorraine 37, 60, 63, 65 Judgement of Cambyses 105 Eyck, Hubrecht van 112
Charlier, Guillaume 65 David, Jacques-Louis 122 Eyck, Jan van 20, 108
Charter of Liberties 34, 37 Debit cards 160 Adoration of the Mystic Lamb 20,
Château d’Attre (Ath) 133 Delacenserie, Louis 108 112
Château Royal 90 Delvaux, Laurent 70 Saint Barbara 123
Children 171 Delvaux, Paul 21, 104 Virgin and Child with Canon 104
in hotels 139 Pink Bows 122
in restaurants 145 Serenity 105 F
Chocolates, shopping 161, 163 Demoulin, Louis 133 Fabre, Jan 63, 121
Le Christ Vert ou Calvaire Breton Dendermonde 128–9 The Fall of Icarus (Brueghel) 20
(Gauguin) 69 Department stores 160–61, 163 Fashion shopping 161, 163
Christmas 31 Des Caresses (Khnopff ) 71 Ferdinand, Cardinal-Infant 36
Churches in Brussels Design Museum Ghent 11, 13, 110, Ferdinand, Emperor 35
Basilique Nationale du Sacré- 113 Ferries 175
Coeur 18, 89 Diamond district (Antwerp) 126 Festival d’Eté de Bruxelles 30
Chapelle de la Madeleine 75 Diksmuide 134 Festivals 28–31
Chapelle Royale 83 Diocletian, Emperor 107 music 166, 167
Eglise Ste-Catherine 57, 80, 81 Disabled travellers 171 Steed Bayard (Dendermonde) 129
Eglise St-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg in hotels 139 Fête de la Musique 29
60, 62–3, 83 in restaurants 145 Fête de Noel 31
Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au- Doctors 172 Fête des Ros 31
Béguinage 56, 81 Dodengang 134 Fête de Saint Nicolas 31
Eglise St-Nicolas 51, 80 The Domain of Arnheim (Magritte) Film 166, 167
Eglise Sts-Pierre-et-Guidon 68, 71 CINEMATEK 64
(Anderlecht) 88, 89 Domaine de Laeken 13, 28, 90–91 festivals 28, 29
Notre-Dame de la Chapelle 50, 82 Dotremont, Christian 21 FotoMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 121
Notre Dame du Sablon 12, 13, 72, Drinks see Food and drink Fire services 172
83 Dulle Griet (Ghent) 114 Flanders, Count of 34
see also Cathedrals Dumas, Alexandre 51 Flanders Festival 28
Ciamberlani, Albert 22 Duquesnoy, Jérôme the Elder 49 Flemish people 40
Cinema see Film Dutch place names 178 Flemish Primitives 20, 70
CINEMATEK 64 Dyck, Antony van 21, 36 Floris, Cornelis 116, 118
Cinquantenaire Museum 79 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Fochplein (Leuven) 131
City of Brussels Summer Festival 29 Kunsten (Antwerp) 122 Foire du Midi 30
Claude Le Lorrain 70 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts: Folk music 165, 167
Cleves-Ravenstein, Adolphe and Musée Old Masters 66, 70 Food and drink
Philip 64 Museum voor Schone Kunsten Belgian beer 148–9
Climate 28–31 (Ghent) 115 biscuits 161, 163
Clothes Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk buying beer 161–2, 163
ModeMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 120 (Dendermonde) 129 chocolates 161, 163
Musée du Costume et de la Rockoxhuis (Antwerp) 121 The Flavours of Brussels
Dentelle 48, 82 Sint Jacobskerk (Antwerp) 121 146–7
shopping 161, 163 Sint Pauluskerk (Antwerp) 117 see also Restaurants
Clovis, King 48 St Romboutskathedraal Forêt de Soignes 88
Clubs 166, 167 (Mechelen) 128 FotoMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 121
Cluysenaer, Jean-Pierre 51, 74 Fountain of Minerva 83
Coach travel 175 E Fourment, Helena 70, 125
COBRA Movement 21 Eglise Ste-Catherine 57, 80, 81 Françoise of Luxembourg 73
Comic strip art 24–5 Eglise St-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg French Memorial and Ossuary 135
Comics Art Museum 12, 13, 54–5 60, 62–3, 83 French place names 178
International Comic Strip and Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au- French Revolution (1789) 37
Cartoon Festival 30–31 Béguinage 56, 81 Freud, Sigmund 122
shopping 162, 163 Eglise St-Joseph (Waterloo) 132 Friet Museum (Bruges) 108
Communications 173 Eglise St-Nicolas 51, 80 Fryatt, Captain 106
G Heritage Days 31 Jordaens, Jacob 70, 115, 117, 121, 122

Heysel Park 84 As the Old Sang, the Young Play
Gaasbeek (Pajottenland) 129 Heysel Stadium 41 Pipes 123
Galérie Bortier 74 Hill 60 (Zillebeke) 135 Joseph II, Emperor 37, 111, 133
Galeries St-Hubert 12, 40, 44, 51, 81 Hill 62 (Sanctuary Wood Museum) Joseph of Arimathea 100–101
Galleries see Museums and galleries 135 Le Joueur Secret (Magritte) 68
Gardens see Parks and gardens Historium Bruges 101 Journées du Patrimoine 31
Gauguin, Paul 71 History 33–41 Judgement of Cambyses (David) 105
Le Christ Vert ou Calvaire Breton 69 Hitler, Adolf 41 Justus Lipsius 12, 76
Geldmuntstraat (Bruges) 109 Hof Bladelin (Bruges) 109
Genuese Loge (Bruges) 108 Holbein, Hans the Younger 88 K
Géry, St 50 Holidays, public 31 Kantcentrum (Bruges) 106, 109
Ghent 11, 13, 95, 110–15 Holy Roman Empire 33, 35 KBC Tower (Antwerp) 126
entertainment 166, 167 Hornes, Count 35, 73 Keldermans, Rombout 113
history 33 Horta, Victor 21, 22, 71 Khnopff, Fernand 21
hotels 143 Cinquantenaire Museum 79 Des Caresses 71
restaurants 157–8 Comics Art Museum 54, 55 Klein Begijnhof (Ghent) 115
shopping 162, 163 Design Museum Ghent 113 Klimt, Gustav 21
Street-by-Street map 110–11 Horta Museum 22, 86 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone
Gineste, Pierre-François 53 Hôtel Max Hallet 87 Kunsten (Antwerp) 11, 122–3
Godecharle, Gilles-Lambert 57 Hôtel Solvay 23, 87 Korenlei (Ghent) 11, 13, 113
Godefroi of Bouillon 60 Maison du Peuple 21, 82–3, 126 The Kruispoort (Bruges) 106–7
Godefroid I, King 50 Musée Charlier 65 Kunsten FESTIVAL des Arts 28
Goes, Hugo van der 104 Palais des Beaux-Arts 64
Madonna with Saint Anne and a Rue Neuve 53 L
Franciscan Donor 67 Horta metro station 21 Lace 26–7
Gogh, Vincent van 88, 122 Horta Museum 10, 22, 86 Kantcentrum (Bruges) 106, 109
Golden Jubilee (1880) 78 Hospitals 172 Musée du Costume et de la
Golden Spurs, Battle of (1302) 34, Hostels 139 Dentelle 48, 82
108, 126 Hôtel Amigo 82 Laeken, Domaine de 13, 28, 90–91
Gomegnies, Count of 133 Hôtel Ciamberlani 22 Lambeaux, Jef 127
Gossaert, Jan 20 Hôtel Hannon 22, 87 Lambic beers 148
Grand Mosque 78 Hotel Lucca (Bruges) 109 Lamentation (van der Weyden) 20, 70
Grand Place 36, 46–7, 80, 82 Hôtel Max Hallet 87 Lanchals, Pieter 103
Brussels’ Best: Architecture 18 Hôtel Metropole 22, 53, 56, 81 Langemark 134
Great days in Brussels 10, 12, 13 Hôtel Ravenstein 64, 83 Langerock, Pierre 89
Graslei (Ghent) 11, 13, 110, 113 Hôtel Solvay 23, 87 Languages 170
Het Gravensteen (Ghent) 97, 110, Hôtel de Ville 12, 13, 16, 46, 48–9, 83 phrase book 197–200
114 Hotels 138–43 Last Judgement (Bosch) 104
Greater Brussels 85–91 Antwerp 143 Lavatories 171
Domaine de Laeken 90–91 Bruges 143 Le Boeuf, Henri 64
Horta Museum 86 Ghent 143 Leopold I, Emperor 37
Green travel 176 Lower Town 140–42 Léopold I, King 38, 39, 51, 62, 83, 90
Groenendaal Arboretum 88 Upper Town 142–3 Léopold II, King 40
Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 10, House of Orange 35 Basilique Nationale du Sacré-
104–5 Household Cares (Wouters) 105 Coeur 89
Groenplaats (Antwerp) 119 Huffel, Albert van 89 Domaine de Laeken 90
Groot Begijnhof (Leuven) 131 Hugo, Victor 40, 47, 51 Musée des Instruments de
Groot Vleeshuis (Ghent) 114 Huis van Alijn (Ghent) 111, 114 Musique 10, 64
Grote Markt (Antwerp) 11, 116, Huis Bouchoute (Bruges) 108 Palais de Justice 73
127 Huis Ter Beurze (Bruges) 108 Palais Royal 62
Street-by-Street map 118–19 Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) Parc du Cinquantenaire 78
Gruuthusemuseum (Bruges) 11, 13, 34 Upper Town 59
102–3 Léopold III, King 41, 126
Gudule, Sainte 75 I Leuven 95, 130–31
Guimard, Barnabé 61 Îlot Sacré 81 Libraries
Guimard, Hector 19 Impressionism 71 Bibliothèque Royale Albert I 83
Gutenberg, Johannes 120 Independence 30, 38–9, 78, 81 Comics Art Museum 55
Guynemer, Georges 134 Institut Royal des Sciences Lier 128
Guynemer Monument 134 Naturelles 77 Lijnwaadmarkt (Antwerp) 127
Insurance 172 “Linguistic Divide” (1962) 40
H International Comic Strip and Lipsius, Justus 76
Haeck, Jan 75 Cartoon Festival 30–31 London, Treaty of (1839) 40
Haen, Jacques de 51 Internet 173 Lost property 172
Halle 129 Irish Peace Tower 135 Lothair I, Emperor 33
Halles St-Géry 50–51, 80 Isabella, Archduchess 36 Louis XIV, King of France 36
Hals, Frans 70 Ixelles 87 Louis the German 33
Hankar, Paul 22, 72 Louvain, Dukes of 33
Hankar metro station 21 J Louvain, Jeanne, Duchess of 34
Hapsburg dynasty 35–6 James II, King of England 83 Lower Town 45–57
Health care 172 Jazz 29, 31, 164–5, 167 area map 45
Heilig Bloed Basiliek (Bruges) 10, Jeanneke Pis 52 Comics Art Museum 54–5
100–101 Jeruzalemkerk (Bruges) 106, 109 Grand Place 46–7
Hello Jazz Festival 31 Jijé 24 Hôtel de Ville 48–9
Henry I, Duke of Brabant 74 John, Count of Brabant 130 hotels 140–42
Henry II, Count of Louvain 33 John I, Duke of Brabant 51 restaurants 150–53
Hergé (Georges Remi) 21, 24, 55 John McCrae Site 134 Luther, Martin 35
M Merovingian dynasty 33 Museums and galleries (individual)

Metro 177 (cont.)
M-Museum Leuven (Leuven) 131 Underground art 21 Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale
McCrae, John 134 Metsys, Quentin 127, 131 89
Madame Récamier (Magritte) 122 Meunier, Constantin 21, 53, 87 Musée du Tram 89
Madonna with Saint Anne and a Michael, St 48, 75 Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles 10,
Franciscan Donor (van der Goes) Michelangelo 101 46
67 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 113 Musée Wellington (Waterloo) 132
Magritte, René 21, 87, 104 Minnewater (Bruges) 103 Musée Wiertz 76
The Domain of Arnheim 68, 71 Miró, Joan 88 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts 10,
Le Joueur Secret 68 Mobile phones 173 12, 13, 83
Madame Récamier 122 ModeMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 120 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts:
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts: Money 173 Musée Fin de Siècle 68–9, 71
Musée Magritte 12, 68, 71 Mont des Arts 83 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts:
Maison de la Ballone 57 Montoyer, Louis 90 Musée Magritte 12, 68–9, 71
La Maison des Boulangers 47 Monuments Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts:
Maison Cauchie 23 Canadian Forces Memorial 134 Musée Old Masters 66–7, 70
La Maison des Ducs de Brabant 47 French Memorial and Ossuary 135 Museum Aan De Stroom (MAS,
Maison d’Erasme (Anderlecht) 88, Guynemer Monument 134 Antwerp) 11, 117
89 Irish Peace Tower 135 Museum van Hedendaagse Kunst
Maison du Peuple 82–3, 126 Monument Léopold 90 Antwerpen (M HKA, Antwerp) 121
Maison du Roi 46 The Moreel Triptych (Memling) 104 Museum Mayer van den Bergh
Maison Saint Cyr 23, 76 Morris (Maurice de Bevere) 24, 54 (Antwerp) 121
Manneken Pis 36, 48–9, 82 Mosnier, Jean-Baptiste 56 Museum Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-ter-
The Birthday of Manneken Pis 30 Mosque, Grand 78 Potterie (Bruges) 107
Great days in Brussels 10, 12, 13 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 65 Museum Plantin-Moretus
Maps Mucha, Alphonse, La Nature 69, 71 (Antwerp) 120, 127
Antwerp 116–17 Museums and galleries (general) Museum Schatkamer van St Pieter
Antwerp: Grote Markt 118–19 admission charges 170–71 (Leuven) 130
Antwerp walk 126–7 Museum Night Fever 28 Museum voor Schone Kunsten
Bruges 98–9 opening hours 170 (Ghent) 115
Bruges walk 108–9 Museums and galleries (individual) Museum voor Volkskunde (Bruges)
Brussels 14–15 Arentshuis Museum (Bruges) 101 109
Brussels: Central Brussels 16–17 Autoworld 12, 79 Napoleon’s Last Headquarters
Brussels: Quartier Royal 60–61 BELvue Museum 62 (Waterloo) 133
Brussels: Street finder 180–88 Brugse Vrije (Bruges) 100 Pretenkabinet (Antwerp) 120
Brussels’ Best: Architecture 18–19 CINEMATEK 64 Red Star Line Museum (Antwerp)
Brussels’ Best: Art Nouveau 22–3 Cinquantenaire Museum 79 121
Brussels and environs 15 Comics Art Museum 12, 13, 54–5 Rockoxhuis (Antwerp) 121, 126
Brussels walks 80–81, 82–3 The Coudenberg 62 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 11, 124–5,
Domaine de Laeken 90–91 Design Museum Ghent 11, 13, 126
Exploring beyond Brussels 96–7 110, 113 Sint-Janshospitaal (Bruges) 11, 13,
Ghent 110–11 FotoMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 121 103
Greater Brussels 85 Friet Museum (Bruges) 108 STAM (Ghent) 115
Leuven 131 Gaasbeek (Pajottenland) 129 Stedelijk Museum voor Actuele
Lower Town 45 Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 10, Kunst (SMAK, Ghent) 11, 115
Upper Town 58–9 104–5 Stedelijk Museum Wuyts (Lier) 128
Waterloo 132 Gruuthusemuseum (Bruges) 11, Vleeshuis (Antwerp) 117
Western Europe 14 13, 102–3 Volkskundemuseum (Bruges) 107
World War I battlefield tour Hill 62 (Sanctuary Wood Museum) Music
134–5 135 festivals 28–31, 166, 167
Marcel, Alexandre 90 Historium Bruges 101 jazz 29, 31, 164–5, 167
Margaret of Austria 35 Horta Museum 10, 22, 86 Musée des Instruments de
Maria Theresa, Empress 37 Huis van Alijn (Ghent) 111, 114 Musique 64–5, 83
Markets 46, 50, 161, 163 “In Flanders Fields” Museum opera and classical music 164, 167
The Markt (Bruges) 13, 99, 101, 108 (Ypres) 133 rock, folk, world and reggae 165,
Martin V, Pope 130 Institut Royal des Sciences 167
Marvano 25 Naturelles 77
Marx, Karl 40 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone N
Mary of Burgundy 35, 101 Kunsten (Antwerp) 11, 122–3 Names, French/Dutch places 178
Master of Flémalle, The Annunciation M-Museum Leuven (Leuven) 131 Napoleon I, Emperor 38, 39, 67, 132
66 Mémorial 1815 (Waterloo) 132 Napoleon’s Last Headquarters
Mathilde, Princess 41 Memorial Museum Passchendaele (Waterloo) 133
Maximilian, Archduke 108 135 NATO 41
Maximilian I, Emperor 35, 103, 128 ModeMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 120 La Nature (Mucha) 69, 71
Maximilian Emmanuel 49 Musée de l’Armée et d’Histoire Navez, François-Joseph 21
Mayer van den Bergh, Fritz 121 Militaire 12, 78, 79 Nazis 24
Mechelen 95, 128 Musée Charlier 65 Newspapers 173
Meir (Antwerp) 126 Musée Constantin Meunier 87 Nightlife 166, 167
Meit, Konrad 102 Musée du Costume et de la Nocturnes des Sablons 31
Memling, Hans 20, 70, 98, 103 Dentelle 48, 82 Notre-Dame de la Chapelle
The Moreel Triptych 104 Musée David et Alice van Buuren 50, 82
Mémorial 1815 (Waterloo) 132 (Uccle) 88 Notre Dame du Sablon 12, 13, 72,
Memorial Museum Passchendaele Musée Gueuze (Anderlecht) 88–9 83
135 Musée des Instruments de Notre Temps (Somville) 21
Menin Gate (Ypres) 133, 135 Musique 64–5, 83 Nuit Blanche 30
Mercator, Gerhard 73, 130 Musée d’Ixelles 87 Les Nuits Botaniques 28
O Philippe I, King 41, 126 Rollerskating 29

Photography Roode Steen (Bruges) 108
Old England 22, 64–5 FotoMuseum (Antwerp) 11, 121 The Royal Greenhouses at Laeken 28
Ommegang 29, 57 Phrase book 197–200 Royal Society of Engineers 64
Onze Lieve Vrouw Lombeek 129 Le Pigeon 47 The Rozenhoedkaai (Bruges) 98
Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal Pink Bows (Delvaux) 122 Rubens, Pieter Paul 21, 36, 95, 128
(Antwerp) 11, 117, 119 Place de Brouckère 56, 81 Adoration of the Magi 123
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Bruges) 11, Place de la Dynastie 90 Antwerp 116
13, 98, 101 Place du Grand Sablon 12, 13, 72, 83 The Assumption of the Virgin 67
Oost, Jacob van the Elder Place du Jeu de Balle 50 Eglise St-Nicolas 51
Portrait of Bruges Family 104 Place des Martyrs 53, 81 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts:
Opening hours 170 Place des Palais 60 Musée Old Masters 66, 70
restaurants 144 Place du Petit Sablon 13, 17, 72–3, Museum voor Schone Kunsten
shops 160, 170 83 (Ghent) 115
Opera 164, 167 Place names 178 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal
Vlaamse Opera (Ghent) 115 Place Royale 10, 60, 63 (Antwerp) 117
The Orange Market at Blidah Place Ste-Catherine 80–81 Rockoxhuis (Antwerp) 121, 126
(Evenepoel) 71 Place St-Géry 80 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 11, 124–5,
Orley, Bernard van 51, 73, 75 Plantation du Meiboom 30 126
The Battle of Pavia 26 Plantin, Christopher 120 Self-portrait 21
Otto II, Emperor 33 Poelaert, Joseph 52, 57, 73 Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk
Oud Tolhuis (Bruges) 108 Police 172 (Antwerp) 120
Oude Markt (Leuven) 130 Pool of Peace 135 Sint Pauluskerk (Antwerp) 117, 119
Poortersloge (Bruges) 108 tapestry designs 26
P Portaels, Jean 63 tomb 121, 126
Pajottenland 129 Porte de Hal 18, 87 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 11, 124–5,
Palais des Académies 61 Portrait of Bruges Family (van Oost) 126
Palais des Beaux-Arts 64 104 Rue des Bouchers 10, 52, 81
Palais de Charles de Lorraine 65, 83 Portrait of Laurent Froimont (van der Rue Neuve 13, 53, 81
Palais d’Egmont 19, 73 Weyden) 20 Rue Royale 60
Palais de Justice 12, 13, 18, 58, 73, Postal services 173 Ruysbroeck, Jan van 46, 48–9
83 Pourbus, Pieter 101 Ruysch, Rachel, Vase of Flowers 70
Palais de la Nation 19, 61 Pretenkabinet (Antwerp) 120
Palais Royal 12, 13, 17, 61, 62–3 Prinsenhof (Bruges) 109 S
Palais Royal Open Days 30 Provinciaal Hof (Bruges) 108 Sablon Baroque Spring 28
Panorama de la Bataille (Waterloo) Puppets 52, 81 Safety 170, 171, 172
133 St Annakerk (Bruges) 109
Paola, Queen 90 Q St Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 11, 13,
Parks and gardens Quartier Européen 12, 13, 76 111, 112
Bois de la Cambre 87 Quartier Marolles 50, 82 Saint Barbara (van Eyck) 123
Le Botanique 12, 13, 53 Quartier Royal 12, 13 Saint Cyr, Georges de 76
Domaine de Laeken 13, 90–91 Street-by-Street map 60–61 St-Gilles 87
Groenendaal Arboretum 88 Queen Elisabeth Music Contest St Gilliskerk (Bruges) 109
Heysel Park 84 28–9 St Jakobskerk (Bruges) 109
Minnewater (Bruges) 103 St Michielskerk (Leuven) 131
Parc de Bruxelles 61 R St Niklaaskerk (Ghent) 113
Parc du Cinquantenaire 12, 13, Radio 173 St Pieterskerk (Leuven) 130
78–9 Railways see Trains St Romboutskathedraal (Mechelen)
Parc Léopold 77 Rainfall 30 128
Parc Royal 90 Rastadt, Treaty of (1714) 37 St Salvators-Kathedraal (Bruges) 103
Place de la Dynastie 90 Red Star Line Museum (Antwerp) St Walburgakerk (Bruges) 109
Place du Petit Sablon 13, 72–3, 83 121 Saintenoy, Paul 64
The Royal Greenhouses at Laeken Reformation 35 Sanctuary Wood Museum 135
28 Reggae 165, 167 Sax, Adolphe 65
Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 124 Le Renard 47 Scheldt, River 36, 95, 112, 116, 127
Serres Royales 90 Republic of United Belgian States 39 Schueten 24, 25
Parlamentarium 77 Résidence Palace 76 Schuttersgilde St Sebastiaan
Parliament see Palais de la Nation Responsible tourism 171 (Bruges) 107
Parliament Quarter 19, 77 Restaurants 144–59 Sea travel 175
Passchendaele 133 Antwerp 158–9 Sebastian, St 107
The Patershol (Ghent) 114 Bruges 156–7 Security 172
Patinir, Joachim 20 The Flavours of Brussels 146–7 La Seine à la Grande-Jatte (Seurat)
Pâtisseries 147 Ghent 157–8 69, 71
Pavillon Chinois 90 Lower Town 150–53 Self-catering apartments 139
Personal security 172 Upper Town 153–6 Self-portrait (Rubens) 21
Peyo 24, 25 see also Food and drink Senne, River 40, 56, 72, 80
Pharmacies 172 Reveillon 31 September Uprising (1830) 39, 53
Philip II, King of Spain 35, 63, 73 Revolution (1830) 38–39, 81 Serclaes, Everard ‘t 34, 46
Philip IV, King of Spain 36 Rijm family 114 Serenity (Delvaux) 105
Philip V, King of Spain 37 Rimbaud, Arthur 82 Serres Royales 90
Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy Roba 24 Seurat, Georges 71
34 Rock music 165, 167 La Seine à la Grande-Jatte 69, 71
Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy Rockox, Nicolaas 121 The Seven Free Arts (tapestry) 102
32, 35, 63 Rockoxhuis (Antwerp) 121, 126 Shopping 160–63
Philip the Good (Weyden) 32 Rodenbach, Georges 108 Antwerp 162, 163
Philip the Handsome 35 Rodin, Auguste 12, 50, 51, 87 Bruges 162, 163
Philippe, Crown Prince 41 Le Roi d’Espagne 47 Ghent 162, 163
Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk Tintin 21, 24, 54, 55 Versailles, Treaty of (1919) 41

(Antwerp) 120, 127 Tipping 144, 171 Viérin, Joseph 105
Sint Jacobskerk (Antwerp) 121, 126 Toilets 171 Villa Belvedere 90
Sint-Janshospitaal (Bruges) 11, 13, Toone, Antoine 52 Virgin and Child with Canon (van
98, 103 Toulouse Lautrec, Henri de 87 Eyck) 104
Sint Pauluskerk (Antwerp) 117, 119 Tour d’Angle 82 The Vismarkt (Bruges) 100
Sleen, Marc 24 Tour Japonais 90 Les XX (Les Vingt) 21
Smoking, in restaurants 145 Tour Noire (Black Tower) 57, 81 Vlaamse Opera (Ghent) 115
The Smurfs 25, 54 Tour de Villers 82 Vlaminck, Maurice de 71
Snacks 145 Tourist information 170, 171 Vlamingstraat (Bruges) 108
Snyders, Frans 121, 125 Tours 179 Vleeshuis (Antwerp) 117, 118
Société Libre des Beaux-Arts 71 Tours by car Vogels, Guillaume 21, 65
Solvay, Ernest 77 World War I battlefields 134–5 Volkskundemuseum (Bruges) 107
Solvay family 87 Town halls see Stadhuis Vrijdagmarkt (Antwerp) 127
Somville, Roger, Notre Temps 21 Trains 174–5, 178–9
Spaanse Loskaai (Bruges) 109 Trams 89, 176, 177 W
Spain 35 Trappist beers 148 Waghemakere, Herman de 117
Specialist tours 179 Travel 174–9 Wailly, Charles de 90
Spiegelrei (Bruges) 108 air 174, 175 Walks 176
Spilliaert, Léon 71 buses 174, 176, 177, 179 Antwerp 126–7
Spirou 24 cars 175, 176, 177, 178, 179 Bruges 108–9
Spring in Brussels 28 coaches 175 Heart of Brussels 80–81
Square Ambiorix 76 exploring beyond Brussels 97 Sablons and Coudenberg 82–3
Stadhuis (Antwerp) 118 ferries 175 Wallez, Abbot Norbert 24
Stadhuis (Bruges) 10, 13, 99, 100 getting around Brussels 176–7 Walloons 38, 40
Stadhuis (Ghent) 13, 111, 112–13 metro 177 War of the Austrian Succession
Stadhuis (Leuven) 130 Musée du Tram 89 (1740–48) 37
Stadsschouwburg (Bruges) 108 taxis 174, 177 War of the Spanish Succession
STAM (Ghent) 115 trains 174–5, 178–9 (1701–14) 37
Stappen, Charles van der 79 trams 176, 177 Waterkeyn, André 91
Stedelijk Museum voor Actuele Travel insurance 172 Waterloo, Battle of (1815) 38, 39, 95,
Kunst (SMAK, Ghent) 11, 115 Travel safety advice 170, 171 132–3
Stedelijk Museum Wuyts (Lier) 128 Tyne Cot Cemetery 134 Weather 28–31
Steed Bayard (Dendermonde) 129 Wellington, Duke of 132
Steen, Jan 128 U Weyden, Rogier van der 20, 66, 88
Stella Artois Brewery (Leuven) 130 Uccle 88 Lamentation 20, 70
Stock Exchange see La Bourse Underground art 21 Philip the Good 32
Stockel metro station 21 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Portrait of Laurent Froimont 20
Strauven, Gustave 23, 76 Antwerp 120 Wheelchair access see Disabled
Street art 25 Groot Begijnhof (Leuven) 131 travellers
Summer in Brussels 29–30 Upper Town 59–79 Wiertz, Antoine 21, 65, 76
Sunshine 29 area map 58–9 Willebroek Canal 36, 37
Surrealism 21, 68 Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule William I of Orange, King 38–9, 133
Suys, Léon 51 74–5 Windmills, Bruges 106–7
Symbolism 71 Heart of Brussels walk 80–81 Winter in Brussels 31
hotels 142–3 Winterhalter, Franz 62
T Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Wolfers, Philippe 79
Tapestry 26–7 66–71 Woman Ironing (Wouters) 122
Tapis des Fleurs 30 Palais Royal 62–3 World Fair (1910) 40
Taxes 138, 160 Parc du Cinquantenaire 78–9 World music 165, 167
Taxis 171, 174, 177 Quartier Royal 60–61 World War I 40–41, 79
Telephones 173 restaurants 153–6 Beluik der Gefusilleerden
Television 173 Sablons and Coudenberg walk (Bruges) 106
Temperatures 31 82–3 World War I battlefields tour 134–5
Teniers, David II 21 Utrecht, Treaty of (1713) 37 Ypres 133
Terrorism 41 Uxbridge, Lord 132 World War II 41, 78, 79
Theatre 165, 167 Wouters, Rik 21, 65
Stadsschouwburg (Bruges) 108 V Household Cares 105
Théâtre Marionettes de Toone 52, Van de Beurse family 108 Woman Ironing 122
81 Vander Kelen-Mertens family 131
Théâtre Royal Flamand 56–7 Vandersteen, Willy 25 Y
Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie 39, Vase of Flowers (Ruysch) 70 Youth hostels 139
52–3, 81 VAT refunds 160 Ypres 40, 95, 133
Vlaamse Opera (Ghent) 115 Vegetarian meals 145
Theme parks, Bruparck 13, 91 Velde, Henry van de 22, 71 Z
Thienen, Jacques van 48 Venius, Otto 121 Zimmer, Lodewijk 128
Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) 36 Verbruggen, Hendrik 75, 121 Zimmertoren (Lier) 128
Tickets, for entertainments 164, 167 Verlaine, Paul 82 Zoo, Antwerp 126
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  195
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Ceulemans at Institut Royal Du Patrimonie Artistique;
people whose assistance contributed to the preparation Charles Dierick at Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée; Anne
of this book: at Gaspard de Wit; Elsge Ganssen and Georges Delcart at
Rubenshuis; Doctor Janssens at the Domaine de Laeken;
Main Contributors Leen de Jong at Koninklijk Museum Voor Schone Kunsten;
Zoë Hewetson is based in London but works in Brussels as Antwerpen; Noel at Leonidas; Chantal Pauwert at Stad
a simultaneous translator for the European Commission. Brugge Stedelijke Musea; Marie-Hélène van Schonbroek at
She is a keen walker and has published a guide to walking Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule; Elaine de Wilde and
in Turkey. Sophie van Vliet at Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts.
Philip Lee lives and works in Nottingham. A veteran travel Photography Permissions
writer, he has contributed to numerous Rough Guide and Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the cathedrals,
Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide publications, including the churches, museums, hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries and
Rough Guide to Belgium. He frequently writes on travel for sights too numerous to thank individually for their
British newspapers and magazines. assistance and kind permission to photograph at their
establishments.
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worked on several Dorling Kindersley travel guides, and is Placement Key - a–above; b–below/bottom; c–centre; f–far;
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Sarah Wolff has lived and worked in Brussels for several Works of art have been produced with the permission of
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196  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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FRENCH PHRASE BOOK  197
Phrase Book
Tips for Pronouncing French toilet toilette twah-let
French-speaking Belgians, or Walloons, have a throaty, deep accent occupied occupé o-koo-pay
noticeably different from French spoken in France. Despite this, free (vacant) libre leebr
there are few changes in the vocabulary used in spoken and free (no charge) gratuit grah-twee
written language.Consonants at the end of words are mostly silent
and not pronounced. Ch is pronounced sh; th is t; w is v; and r is Making a Telephone Call
rolled gutturally. Ç is pronunced s. I would like to Je voudrais faire un zhuh voo-dreh
place a long- interurbain faire uñ añter-
In Emergency distance oorbañ
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor telephone call
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay I’d like to call Je voudrais faire zhuh voo-dreh
Call a doctor! Appelez un apuh-layun collect un communication faire oon kom-
medecin! medsañ PCV oonikah-syoñ peh-
Call the police! Appelez la police! apuh-lay lah pol-ees seh-veh
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh poñ- I will try again Je vais essayer zhuh vay ess-ay-
brigade! pompiers! peeyay later plus tard eh ploo tar
Where is the Où est le téléphone oo ay luh tehlehfon Can I leave a Est-ce que je peux es-keh zhuh puh
nearest telephone? le plus proche? luh ploo prosh message? laisser un message? les-say uñ meh-
Where is the Où est l’hôpital le oo ay l’opeetal sazh
nearest hospital? plus proche? luh ploo prosh Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo
up a little please? un peu plus fort? par-lay uñ puh
ploo for
Communication Essentials Local call Communication komoonikah-
Yes Oui wee local syoñ low-kal
No Non noñ
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play Shopping
Thank you Merci mer-see
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah How much does C’est combien? say kom-byañ
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor this cost?
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar I would like… Je voudrais... zhuh voo-dray
Goodnight Bonne nuit boñ-swar Do you have… Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo zavay
morning le matin matañ avez…
afternoon l’après-midi l’apreh-meedee I’m just looking Je regarde zhuh ruhgar suhl-
evening le soir swah seulement moñ
yesterday hier eeyehr Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
today aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh
tomorrow demain duhmañ de crédit? kart duh kreh-dee
here ici ee-see Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo zak-
there là bas lah bah travellers’ acceptez les sept-ay lay shek
What? Quel/quelle? kel, kel cheques? chèques de voyage? duh vwayazh
When? Quand? koñ What time do A quelle heure ah kel urr voo zet
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah you open? vous êtes ouvert? oo-ver
Where? Où? oo What time do A quelle heure ah kel urr voo zet
How? Comment? kom-moñ you close? vous êtes fermé? fer-may
This one Celui-ci suhl-wee see
That one Celui-là suhl-wee lah
Useful Phrases expensive cher shehr
How are you? Comment allez vous? kom-moñ talay voo cheap pas cher, bon pah shehr, boñ
Very well, thank Très bien, merci treh byañ, mer-see marché mar-shay
you size, clothes la taille tye
How do you do? Comment ça va? kom-moñ sah vah white blanc bloñ
See you soon A bientôt byañ-toh black noir nwahr
That’s fine Ça va bien Sah vah byañ red rouge roozh
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? ooh ay/soñ yellow jaune zhownh
How far is it to…? Combien de kom-byañ duh green vert vehr
kilomètres d’ici à…? keelo-metr d’ee- blue bleu bluh
see ah
Which way to…? Quelle est la kel ay lah Types of Shops
direction pour…? deer-ek-syoñ poor
Do you speak Parlez-vous Anglais? par-lay voo oñg-lay shop le magasin le maga-zañ
English? bakery la boulangerie booloñ-zhuree
I don’t understand Je ne comprends zhuh nuh kom- bank la banque boñk
pas proñ pah bookshop la librairie lee-brehree
Could you speak Pouvez-vous parlez voo pwee-say par- butcher la boucherie boo-shehree
slowly? plus lentement? lay ploos lontuh- cake shop la pâtisserie patee-sree
moñ chocolate shop le chocolatier shok-oh-lah-tyeh
I’m sorry Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah chip stop/stand la friterie free-tuh-ree
chemist la pharmacie farmah-see
delicatessen la charcuterie shah-koo-tuh-ree
Useful Words department store le grand magasin groñ maga-zañ
big grand groñ fishmonger la poissonerie pwasson-ree
small petit puh-tee greengrocer le marchand des mar-shoñ duh lay-
hot chaud show légumes goom
cold froid frwah hairdresser le coiffeur kwafuhr
good bon boñ market le marché marsh ay
bad mauvais moh-veh newsagent le magasin de maga-zañ duh
enough assez assay journaux/tabac zhoor-no
well bien byañ post office le bureau de poste boo-roh duh pohst
open ouvert oo-ver supermarket le supermarché soo-pehr-marshay
closed fermé fer-meh travel agent l’agence de voyage azhons duh vwayazh
left gauche gohsh
right droite drawht Sightseeing
straight on tout droit too drwaht art gallery la galérie d’art galer-ree dart
near près preh bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
far loin lwañ cathedral la cathédrale katay-dral
up en haut oñ oh church l’église aygleez
down en bas oñbah closed on public fermeture jour fehrmeh-tur zhoor
early tôt toh holidays férié fehree-ay
late tard tar garden le jardin zhah-dañ
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray library la bibliothèque beebleeo-tek
exit la sortie sor-tee museum le musée moo-zay
198  FRENCH PHRASE BOOK
railway station la gare (SNCF) gahr (es-en-say-ef ) Time

tourist office les informations layz uñ-for-mah- What is the time? Quelle heure? kel uhr
syoñ one minute une minute oon mee-noot
town hall l’hôtel de ville ohtel duh vil
one hour une heure oon uhr
train le train trañ
half an hour une demi-heure oon duh-mee uhr
half past one une heure et demi uhr ay duh-mee
Staying in a Hotel a day un jour zhuhr
Do you have a est-ce que vous avez es-kuh voo zavay a week une semaine suh-mehn
vacant room? une chambre? oon shambr a month un mois mwah
double room with la chambre à deux la shambr uh duh
double bed personnes, avec per-son uh-vek a year une année annay
un grand lit uñ groñ lee Monday lundi luñ-dee
twin room la chambre à la shambr ah duh Tuesday mardi mah-dee
deux lits lee Wednesday mercredi mehrkruh-dee
single room la chambre à une la shambr ah oon Thursday jeudi zhuh-dee
personne pehr-son Friday vendredi voñdruh-dee
room with a bath la chambre avec shambr ah-vek sal Saturday samedi sam-dee
salle de bain duh bañ Sunday dimanche dee-moñsh
shower une douche doosh
I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon ray-
reservation reservation zehrva-syoñ Belgian Food and Drink
Fish
Eating Out
fish poisson pwah-ssoñ
Have you got Avez vous une avay-voo oon
a table? table libre? tahbl leebr bass bar/loup de mer bah/loo duh mare
I would like to Je voudrais réserver zhuh voo-dray herring hareng ah-roñ
reserve a table une table rayzehr-vay oon lobster homard oh-ma
tahbl monkfish lotte lot
The bill, please L’addition, s’il l’adee-syoñ mussel moule mool
vous plait. voo play oyster huitre weetr
I am a vegetarian Je suis végétarien zhuh swee vezhay- pike brochet brosh-ay
tehryañ salmon saumon soh-moñ
waiter/waitress garçon, gah-sohn/ scallop coquille kok-eel sañ jak
mademoiselle mad-uh-mwah-zel
Saint-Jacques
menu le menu men-oo
cover charge le couvert luh koo-vehr sea bream dorade/daurade doh-rad
wine list la carte des vins lah kart-deh vañ prawn crevette kreh-vet
glass le verre vehr skate raie ray
bottle la bouteille boo-tay trout truite trweet
knife le couteau koo-toh tuna thon toñ
fork la fourchette for-shet
spoon la cuillère kwee-yehr Meat
breakfast le petit déjeuner puh-tee day-zhuh-
nay meat viande vee-yand
lunch le déjeuner day-zhuh-nay beef boeuf buhf
dinner le dîner dee-nay chicken poulet poo-lay
main course le grand plat groñ plah duck canard kanar
starter l’hors d’oeuvres or duhvr lamb agneau ahyoh
dessert le dessert duh-zehrt pheasant faisant feh-zoñ
dish of the day le plat du jour plah doo joor
pork porc por
bar le bar bah
cafe le café ka-fay veal veau voh
rare saignant say-nyoñ venison cerf/chevreuil surf/shev-roy
medium à point ah pwañ
well done bien cuit byañ kwee Vegetables
vegetables légumes lay-goom
Numbers asparagus asperges ahs-pehrj
0 zero zeh-roh Belgian endive chicon shee-koñ
1 un uñ, oon /chicory
2 deux duh Brussels sprouts choux de shoo duh
3 trois trwah bruxelles broocksell
4 quatre katr
garlic ail eye
5 cinq sañk
6 six sees green beans haricots verts arrykoh vehr
7 sept set haricot beans haricots arrykoh
8 huit weet potatoes pommes de terre pom-duh tehr
9 neuf nerf spinach epinard aypeenar
10 dix dees truffle truffe troof
11 onze oñz
12 douze dooz Desserts
13 treize trehz
14 quatorze katorz pancake crêpe crayp
15 quinze kañz waffle gauffre gohfr
16 seize sehz fruit fruits frwee
17 dix-sept dees-set
18 dix-huit dees-zweet Drinks
19 dix-neuf dees-znerf
20 vingt vañ coffee café kah-fay
21 vingt-et-un vañ ay uhn white coffee café au lait kah-fay oh lay
30 trente tront milky coffee caffe latte kah-fay lat-uh
40 quarante karoñt hot chocolate chocolat chaud shok-oh-lah shoh
50 cinquante sañkoñt tea thé tay
60 soixante swahsoñt water l’eau oh
70 septante septoñt
mineral water l’eau minérale l’oh meenay-ral
80 quatre-vingt katr-vañ
90 quatre-vingt-dix/ katr vañ dees lemonade limonade lee-moh-nad
nonante nonañ orange juice jus d’orange zhoo doh-ronj
100 cent soñ wine le vin vañ
1000 mille meel house wine vin maison vañ may-sañ
1,000,000 million miyoñ beer une bière byahr
DUTCH PHRASE BOOK  199
Tips for Pronouncing Dutch free (vacant) vrij vraiy

free (no charge) gratis ghraah-tiss
The Dutch language is pronounced in largely the same way as
English, although many vowels, particularly double vowels, are
pronounced as long sounds. J is the equivalent of the English y, v is Making a Telephone Call
pronounced f, and w is v. I’d like to place Ik wil graag ik vhil ghraakh
a long-distance interlokal inter-loh-kaal tay-
In Emergency telephone call telefoneren luh-foh-neh-ruh
I’d like to call Ik wil “collect call” ik vhil “ collect
Help! Help! help collect bellen call” bel-luh
Stop! Stop! stop I will try again Ik probeer het later ik pro-beer het later
Call a doctor! Haal een dokter! Haal uhn dok-tur later nog wel eens laater nokh vhel
Call the police! Roep de politie! Roop duh poe-leet- ayns
see Can I leave Kunt u een kuhnt ew uhn
Call the fire Roep de Roop duh brahnt- a message? boodschap boat-skhahp
brigade! brandweer! vheer doorgeven? dohr-ghay-vuh
Where is the Waar ist de Vhaar iss duh Could you speak Wilt u wat harder vhilt ew vhat hahr-
nearest dichtsbijzijnde dikst-baiy-zaiyn- up a little please? praten? der praat-ew
telephone? telefoon? duh-tay-luh-foan Local call Lokaal gesprek low-kaahl ghuh-
Where is the Waar ist het Vhaar iss het sprek
nearest hospital? dichtsbijzijande dikst-baiy-zaiyn-
ziekenhuis? duh zee-kuh-hows Shopping
How much does Hoeveel kost dit? hoo-vayl kost dit
Communication Essentials this cost?
Yes Ja yaa I would like… Ik wil graag… ik vhil ghraakh
No Nee nay Do you have…? Heeft u…? hayft ew
Please Alstublieft ahls-tew-bleeft I’m just looking Ik kijk alleen even ik kaiyk alleyn
Thank you Dank u dhank-ew ay-vuh
Excuse me Pardon pahr-don Do you take Neemt u credit naymt ew credit
Hello Goed dag ghoot dahgh credit cards? cards aan? cards aan?
Goodbye Tot ziens tot zins Do you take Neemt u naymt ew raiys-
Goodnight Slaap lekker slap lek-kah travellers’ reischeques aan? sheks aan
morning morgen mor-ghugh cheques?
afternoon middag mid-dahgh What time do Hoe laat gaat hoo laat ghaat ew
evening avond av-vohnd you open? u open? opuh
yesterday gisteren ghis-tern What time do Hoe laat gaat hoo laat ghaat ew
today vandaag van-daagh you close? u dicht? dikht
tomorrow morgen mor-ghugh This one Deze day-zuh
here hier heer That one Die dee
there daar daar expensive duur dewr
What? Wat? vhat cheap goedkoop ghoot-koap
When? Wanneer? vhan-eer size maat maat
Why? Waarom? vhaar-om white wit vhit
Where? Waar? vhaar black zwart zvhahrt
How? Hoe? hoo red rood roat
yellow geel ghayl
green groen ghroon
Useful Phrases blue blauw blah-ew
How are you? Hoe gaat het Hoo ghaat het
ermee? er-may Types of Shops
Very well, Heel goed, Hayl ghoot,
thank you dank u dhank ew antique shop antiekwinkel ahn-teek-vhin-kul
How do you do? Hoe maakt u het? Hoo maakt ew het bakery bakker bah-ker-aiy
See you soon Tot ziens Tot zeens bank bank bahnk
That’s fine Prima Pree-mah bookshop boekwinkel book-vhin-kul
Where is/are…? Waar is/zijn…? vhaar iss/zayn butcher slager slaakh-er-aiy
cake shop banketbakkerij bahnk-et-bahk-er-
How far is it to…? Hoe ver is het Hoo vehr iss het
aiy
naar…? nar chip stop/stand frituur free-ture
How do I get to…? Hoe kom ik naar…? Hoo kom ik nar chemist/drugstore apotheek ah-poe-taiyk
Do you speak Spreekt u engels? Spraykt uw delicatessen delicatessen daylee-kah-tes-suh
English? eng-uhls department store warenhuis vhaah-uh-houws
I don’t understand Ik snap het niet Ik snahp het neet fishmonger viswinkel viss-vhin-kul
Could you speak Kunt u langzamer Kuhnt ew greengrocer groenteboer ghroon-tuh-boor
slowly? praten? lahng-zarmer- hairdresser kapper kah-per
praat-tuh market markt mahrkt
I’m sorry Sorry sorry newsagent krantenwinkel krahn-tuh-vhin-kul
post office postkantoor pohst-kahn-tor
supermarket supermarkt sew-per-mahrkt
Useful Words tobacconist sigarenwinkel see-ghaa-ruh-
vhin-kul
big groot ghroat travel agent reisburo raiys-bew-roa
small klein klaiyn
hot warm vharm
cold koud khowt
good goed ghoot
Sightseeing
bad slecht slekht art gallery gallerie ghaller-ee
enough genoeg ghuh-noohkh bus station busstation buhs-stah-shown
well goed ghoot bus ticket strippenkaart strip-puh-kaart
open open open cathedral kathedraal kah-tuh-draal
closed gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh church kerk kehrk
left links links closed on public op feestdagen op fayst-daa-ghuh
right rechts rekhts holidays gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh
straight on rechtdoor rehkht dohr day return dagretour dahgh-ruh-tour
near dichtbij dikht baiy garden tuin touwn
far ver weg vehr vhekh library bibliotheek bee-bee-yo-tayk
up omhoog om-hoakh museum museum mew-zay-um
down naar beneden naar buh nay-duh railway station station stah-shown
early vroeg vrookh return ticket retourtje ruh-tour-tyuh
late laat laat single journey enkeltje eng-kuhl-tyuh
entrance ingang in-ghang tourist dienst voor deenst vor
exit uitgang ouht-ghang information tourisme tor-ism
toilet wc vhay-say town hall stadhuis staht-houws
occupied bezet buh-zett train trein traiyn
200  DUTCH PHRASE BOOK
Staying in a Hotel 1000 duizend douw-zuhnt

1,000,000 miljoen mill-yoon
Do you have a Zijn er nog zaiyn er nokh
vacant room? kamers vrij? kaa-mers vray
Time
double room with een twees persoons- uhn tvhay one minute een minuut uhn meen-ewt
double bed kamer met een per-soans-ka-mer one hour een uur uhn ewr
twee persoonsbed met uhn tvhay half an hour een half uur een hahlf uhr
per-soans beht half past one half twee hahlf twee
twin room een kamer met een uhn kaa-mer met a day een dag uhn dahgh
lits-jumeaux uhn lee-zjoo-moh a week een week uhn vhayk
single room eenpersoons-kamer ayn-per-soans a month een maand uhn maant
kaa-mer a year een jaar uhn jaar
room with a kaamer met bad/ kaa-mer met Monday maandag maan-dahgh
bath/shower douche baht/doosh Tuesday dinsdag dins-dahgh
I have a Ik heb gereserveerd ik hehp ghuh-ray- Wednesday woensdag vhoons-dahgh
reservation sehr-veert Thursday donderdag donder-dahgh
Friday vrijdag vraiy-dahgh
Eating Out Saturday zaterdag zaater-dahgh
Have you got Is er een tafel vrij? iss ehr uhn tah- Sunday zondag zon-dahgh
table? fuhl vraiy
I would like to Ik wil een tafel ik vhil uhn tah-fel Belgian Food and Drink
reserve a table reserveren ray sehr-veer-uh
The bill, please Mag ik afrekenen muhk ik ahf-ray- Fish
kuh-nuh fish vis fiss
I am a vegetarian Ik ben vegetariër ik ben fay-ghuh- bass zeebars see-buhr
taahr-ee-er herring haring haa-ring
waitress/waiter serveerster/ober sehr-veer-ster/oh- lobster kreeft krayft
ber monkfish lotte/zeeduivel lot/seafuhdul
menu de kaart duh kaahrt mussel mossel moss-uhl
cover charge het couvert het koo-vehr oyster oester ouhs-tuh
wine list de wijnkaart duh vhaiyn-kart pike snoek snook
glass het glass het ghlahss prawn garnaal gar-nall
bottle de fles duh fless salmon zalm sahlm
knife het mes het mess scallop Sint-Jacoboester/ sind-yakob-ouhs-
fork de vork duh fork Jacobsschelp tuh/yakob-scuhlp
spoon de lepel duh lay-pul sea bream dorade/zeebrasem doh-rard
breakfast het ontbijt het ont-baiyt skate rog rog
lunch de lunch duh lernsh trout forel foh-ruhl
dinner het diner het dee-nay tuna tonijn tuhn-een
main course het hoofdgerecht het hoaft-ghuh-
rekht
starter, het voorgerecht het vhor-ghuh-
Meat
first course rekht meat vlees flayss
dessert het nagerecht het naa-ghuh-rekht beef rundvlees ruhnt-flayss
dish of the day het dagmenu het dahg-munh-ew chicken kip kip
bar het cafe het kaa-fay duck eend aynt
café het eetcafe het ayt-kaa-fay lamb lamsvlees lahms-flayss
rare rare ‘rare’ pheasant fazant fay-zanh
medium medium ‘medium’ pork varkensvlees vahr-kuhns-flayss
well done doorbakken door-bah-kuh veal kalfsvlees karfs-flayss
venison hertevlees heht-tuh-flayss
Numbers
1 een ayn
Vegetables
2 twee tvhay vegetables groenten ghroon-tuh
3 drie dree asparagus asperges as-puhj
4 vier feer Belgian endive/ witloof vit-lurf
5 vijf faiyf chicory
6 zes zess Brussels sprouts spruitjes spruhr-tyuhs
7 zeven zay-vuh garlic knoflook knoff-loak
8 acht ahkht green beans princesbonen prins-ess-buh-nun
9 negen nay-guh haricot beans snijbonen snee-buh-nun
10 tien teen potatoes aardappels aard-uppuhls
11 elf elf spinach spinazie spin-a-jee
12 twaalf tvhaalf truffle truffel truh-fuhl
13 dertien dehr-teen
14 veertien feer-teen Desserts
15 vijftien faiyf-teen fruit fruit/vruchten vroot/vrooh-tuh
16 zestien zess-teen pancake pannekoek pah-nuh-kook
17 zeventien zayvuh-teen waffle wafel vaff-uhl
18 achtien ahkh-teen
19 negentien nay-ghuh-tien
20 twintig tvhin-tukh Drinks
21 eenentwintig aynuh-tvhin-tukh beer bier beeh
30 dertig dehr-tukh coffee koffie coffee
40 veertig feer-tukh fresh orange juice verse jus vehr-suh zjhew
50 vijftig faiyf-tukh hot chocolate chocola sho-koh-laa
60 zestig zess-tukh mineral water mineraalwater meener-aahl-
70 zeventig zay-vuh-tukh vhaater
80 tachtig tahkh-tukh tea thee tay
90 negentig nayguh-tukh water water vhaa-ter
100 honderd hohn-durt wine wijn vhaiyn

Brussels, Bruges, Ghent & Antwerp (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in

Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European

The information in this

Guildhouses on the canal, Ghent

Lace maker at work

Bruges Walk 108

Antwerp Walk 126 Artist’s impression of

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp

Brouckère and the busy Boulevard Anspach

located on an area map. To help

the visitor, the map also shows

metro and tram stations.

Each area of Brussels has

IDTUI IQUE DIN

q Rue des Bouchers

colour-coded thumb tabs

RUE DE ISSTR. Botanique

w Théâtre Marionnettes de Toone

e Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie

A locator map shows you

DES RUE TREUX

where you are in relation to

RU 26•39 See also Street Finder

RSU 30 A la Mort Subite

DES 6 La Belle Maraichere

Chapelle 7 Big Mama

Recommended restaurants in the

Lemonnier 9 Brasserie Horta 33 O Bifanas

10 Café Metropole 34 L’Ogenblik

11 La Cantina 35 Le Pain Quotidien

area are listed and plotted on the map.

16 Comme Chez Soi 40 La Roue d’Or

17 Comocomo 41 Le Roy d’Espagne

18 Delirium 42 Sea Grill

20 Le Greenwich 44 Taverne du Passage

For keys to symbols see back flap

Sights at a Glance lists the area’s

key sights by category. The Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, 1 May, 1 & 11

numbered bullets correspond

with those on the Area Map.

2 Hôtel de Ville The belfry was built

Practical information provides

Street Finder maps (see pp180–81).

Major sights are dissected

to reveal their interiors;

Brussels Area by Area

map (see inside front cover) are the

wealth of exceptional street architecture, make walking a Jette

in this guide. Each is covered in

a full chapter in Brussels Area by BL

Area (see pp42–79).

BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA  85

Brussels Walloon south. Its central position makes Brussels an BRUSSELS

Brussels – including Bruges,

Ghent and Antwerp – are

described here. The general

map that gives an illustrated

0 km 2 popular and rewarding destinations. legacy of his great Baroque age.

with major roads marked

Fine Flemish architecture on the banks of Bruges’ network of canals

Stars indicate the sights

each sightseeing area.