Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent & Antwerp (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent & Antwerp (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
BRUSSELS
BRUGES, GHENT & ANTWERP
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BRUSSELS
BRUGES, GHENT & ANTWERP
Contents
Introducing
Produced by Duncan Baird Publishers Brussels
London, England
Managing Editor Rebecca Miles
Managing Art Editor Vanessa Marsh
Editors Georgina Harris, Michelle De Larrabeiti
Designers Dawn Davies-Cook, Ian Midson
Design Assistants Rosie Laing, Kelvin Mullins
Visualizer Gary Cross
Picture Research Victoria Peel, Ellen Root
DTP Designer Sarah Williams
Project Editor Paul Hines
Art Editor Jane Ewart
Map Co-Ordinator David Pugh
Contributors
Zoë Hewetson, Philip Lee, Zoë Ross,
Sarah Wolff, Timothy Wright, Julia Zyrianova
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Paul Kenward
Belgian heroes Tintin, Professor Calculus
and Captain Haddock
Illustrators
Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Eugene Fleury,
Paul Guest, Claire Littlejohn, Robbie Polley,
Kevin Robinson, John Woodcock How to Use This Guide 6
Printed and bound in China
Great Days in Brussels 10
First published in UK in 2000
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Putting Brussels on
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
the Map 14
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017
A Portrait of Brussels 18
Copyright 2000, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
Entertainment
164
Beyond Brussels
Beyond
Brussels 92
Exploring Beyond
Brussels 96
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and
Monuments
2 Hôtel de Ville pp48–9
THE LOWER TOWN
Most visits to Brussels begin with a stroll
around the Lower Town, the ancient heart of
BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
1 Area Map
For easy reference, the sights in
each area are numbered and
3 Manneken Pis the city and home to its most famous area, history. These appeared in the 19th century
NV
ERS
LA
AN
X
Shopping
CHAU
TW
ORT
.
E STR
ERP
SEL
PO
AA
0 Galeries St-Hubert N
UW
E ST
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y Rue Neuve
GIN
AAT
A LA
LAAN
RUE
BOTANIQUE
QUAI
BLV
Streets and Squares Rogier BOT D DU
I AUX
AIN
JAR
ES
KRU AN
L A KE
BARB
QM
QUA
NLA
AN
RUE DU G AN
JAC
RAND HOSPICE
LA
i Place de Brouckère
EN
GROOTGODSHU
AX
IL E
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D EM
Kruidtuin
STR.
FLANDRE
PH
Theatres
RUE DE
PAC LE VA
Ste-Cathérine
OL
OEK
AN
AD
St- Katelijne
BLV
RU
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AN
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VLAENWE
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STE
PLACE DES
LA
MARTYRS
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AR
AM G
A.
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MARTELAARS
p Théâtre Royal Flamand
M
EL E
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PLEIN
TR D
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T S R AN
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ED
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Cultural Centres De
N
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EN
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ST
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t Le Botanique
R.
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8•25•35
.A
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Historic Districts
VD
FABR R
CHA UIZ ER 3•13
IEKS T NE
5 Quartier Marolles TR. KAR
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S L A C H T HUI
B LV D D E L'AB
ES ON T
6 Halles St-Géry
VE
NE
GR
LA R
TE S M A RC E G ST
M
Bourse
SEN
AR E DBER
TR.
A R HE RU
Hotels N Beurs K A
NES
VA UX
DE LA
S L AA
E
ZEN
u Hôtel Métropole
T
AA
N
RUE
EG
surrounding areas.
STR
HT W maps 1 & 2
IR
E C E EN
ZUID
ERL T LOM
ND T S E S
RU A RD
E D’A CH
B
ED
RU DERLE E
I
ID
ST
AN
M
R
Anneessens Restaurants pp150–53 25 La Kasbah
AN
LA
DU
1 Alexandre 26 ‘t Kelderke
ER
E
RU
27 La Manufacture
BLVD.
NI
ZUID
PLACE 2 Arcadi
ON
BLVD.
DE DINANT
28 Mappa Mundo
M
PLACE
PLEIN 3 Aux Armes de Bruxelles
E LE
ROUPE
P OINC
PLEIN R.
4 Bar Bik 29 La Marée
RIC
DU MIDI
IE NST
LIN
LAAN
MAU
SU
RAAT
DE
AN
NE
U LI
LA
AD E
URS
VD
31 De Noordzee - La Mer
GR NU
GST
BL
RUE
IN AVE
du Nord
HOO
Kapelle
8 Bonsoir Clara 32 Nuëtnigenough
TE
ST
RUE
Le Cap
BLVD
37 Pin Pon
AV DE POORTLA
13 Chez Leon
HALL
RU
DU MIDI
PLACE DU
14 Chez Patrick 38 Plattesteen
E
LA PO
JEU DE BALLE
AT
RA
VOSSENPLEIN
15 Le Cirio 39 La Rose Blanche
ZUID
ST
R TE D
OG
HO
AN
E HA
E
UT
19 Gecko 43 Strofilia
E
RU
1 Musée du which demonstrates the various The current statue of In 1698 the governor of
Costume et de schools of lacemaking across Manneken Pis by Jérôme the Netherlands, Maximilian The Legends of
Manneken Pis
la Dentelle France, Flanders and Italy. The Duquesnoy the Elder has Emmanuel, brought a gift to
museum displays temporary been in place since 1619. the city in the form of a blue The charm of this famous
everything you need to know to left wing and belfry of the building, where he used ornate
columns, sculptures, turrets and arcades. The tower and
spire begun in 1449 by Jan van Ruysbroeck helped seal its
2pm, Sun 11am, 3pm & 4pm.
∑ visitbrussels.be
Transport
visit each sight. Map references reputation. In 1995, the 1455 statue of the city’s patron saint,
Michael, was restored and it now resides inside the tower;
a copy of the statue sits on top of the tower. Tours
@ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95.
v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
pinpoint the sight’s location on the are available of the interior, which contains
18th-century tapestries and works of art.
museums and galleries have 6th-century King Clovis. Banqueting room ancient ebony and mahogany.
colour-coded floorplans to
help you find key exhibits.
2 Detailed Information
All the important sights are listed in order, following the
numbering on the Area Map. Practical information, including
map references and opening hours, is also included.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
Wemmel
two main sightseeing areas used the Greater Brussels chapter (see pp84–91) while Bruges,
Ghent and Antwerp are covered in Beyond Brussels (see pp92–135). Dilbeek
Koekelberg
Schaerbeek
Kraainem
0 miles
3
3
Uccle
N
KR JA RD
LAA
UI DT IN
UI NLBO
AIN
N QU
E
Pages 58–79
QMC
. JA
RU
DE
E
B LV
A
.D
G
WE
A
EN
N
STE
SA
SE
ER
EN
UV
AT
T
LE
T H E LO W E R
ST
TRA
RA
E LO U V A I N
C HA U S S E E D
TOWN
AT
GSS
NIN
GRAND PLACE
KO
GROTE MARKT
N
AN
LAA
LE
LA
RG
YA
AN
BE
RU EN
O
LA
E D RT
ENT
E L
E R
A KO
R
LO I
RG
IE
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WE BE
RU
NN
TST EN
RA
AT RT
O
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M
AV E
DE
DE
E DE
. L
LA
AV REN
M
AIS
SAN
THE UPPER
D
RD
ROND PONT CE
B LV
PLACE ROYALE RU LAA
E B R. SCHUMAN N
E VA
KONINGSPLEIN ELL
I AR
D
TOWN PLEIN
UL
STR
A AT
BO
T
RAA
GST
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AVE
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HOO
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NER
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VIE NS
U
N NER
AA VIE RSL
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UT
N
LO
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HA
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W
O
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RU
O
N
D
ST
B LV
R.
The Lower Town
Pages 44–57 0 metres 500
0 yards 500
GREATER BRUSSELS
Past the heart-shaped ring-road of Brussels
city centre lie 19 suburbs (communes) which
form the Bruxelles-Capitale region. While
many are residential, a handful are definitely
worth the short ride to sample outlying
treasures of Brussels’ fascinating history. For
fans of early 20th-century architecture, the
suburb of St-Gilles offers numerous original
north, Heysel offers attractions whose
modernity contrasts with the historical city
centre. The 1958 Atomium, now restored,
stands next to the Bruparck theme park. To
the east, the Central Africa Museum reflects
Belgium’s colonial past in the Congo, and
the tram museum takes a journey through
Brussels’ urban past. Peace and tranquillity
3 Greater Brussels
This section covers those sights of interest that
lie just outside of Brussels and are easily
accessible from the city centre.
examples of striking Art Nouveau buildings, can be found close to the metropolis, in the
including the Horta Museum. In Koekelberg orderly landscape of Royal Laeken and
and visible from the Upper Town is the huge the lush green spaces of the Bois de la
Sacré-Coeur basilica, started in 1904. To the Cambre and the Fôret de Soignes.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals Key
Parks and Gardens
8 Basilique Nationale du Sacré- 5 Fôret de Soignes Central Brussels
Coeur q Domaine de Laeken see pp90–91 Motorway
e Bruparck
Historic Monuments, Buildings Major Road
and Districts Museums and Exhibition Areas Minor road
4
2 Avenue Louise 1 Horta Museum see p86
Railway
3 St-Gilles 9 Musée du Tram
4 Ixelles
6 Uccle
7 Anderlecht
0 Musée Royal de l’Afrique
Centrale
w The Atomium
BEYOND BRUSSELS 95 Beyond Brussels
BEYOND BRUSSELS Places worth visiting that
Wemmel
Antwerp
Brussels lies at the heart of Belgium, on the divide
between the Flemish north and the French-speaking are within a day’s travel of
N12
Ste-Agatha- N2 Leuven
Bruges is a pocket-sized gem of a city. and museums, canals and shopping
Berchem Flourishing on international trade, streets. The city also benefits from a
Koekelberg A2
R0
St-Josse
R20
Kraainem brought in on its canals, it was one of thriving university, which lends it a
Molenbeek
Dilbeek N8 Woluwe-Saint- the wealthiest cities of medieval Europe, youthful vigour.
introduction is followed by a
BRUSSELS Lambert and capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, Sitting on the bank of the broad
Ninove Anderlecht
Woluwe-
who were famed for their lavish lifestyles. River Scheldt, with direct access to the
Etterbeek
N6 Saint-Pierre Then it fell into decline until it was North Sea, Antwerp was and still is a
N4
Uccle Boitsfort
it has become one of Europe’s most home of Rubens, and embraces the
A7
5 Street-by-Street Map
This map gives a bird’s-eye view of
interesting and important parts of
98
1
BEYOND BRUSSELS
Street-by-Street: Bruges
With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. An unspoilt medieval town, Bruges’
winding streets pass by picturesque canals lined with fine
. The Markt
Medieval gabled houses
line this 13th-century
market square at the
heart of Bruges. It still
holds a market each
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
BRUGES
Practical Information
* 119,000. n T’Zand, Markt 1,
and Stationsplein. (050) 44 4646.
99
∑ brugge.be
Wednesday.
S
L
.
E
N
S
S 19th-century Vismarkt.
T T
A R
A .
R I
T LOPPEM A
A
N K
T
E ED
R
E
SI
G
A
T R O
The Rozenhoedkaai H
ST
S
A
U
MO
EN
T
U R
IN
Basiliek
N
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IE
ST
MA
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R
VE
A
IJ
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D
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STR
VA
TO
S
R
KE F
RKHO
T
. Stadhuis
One of the oldest and finest town halls
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk Groeningemuseum in Belgium, this was built between
The Church of Our Lady employs many (see pp104–5) 1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
architectural styles. It took around 200 restored Gothic hall is noted for its
years to build, and its spire is Belgium’s 1385 vaulted ceiling.
tallest in brick. Arentshuis Museum
Gruuthusemuseum
Key
(see pp102–3)
Memling in Sint- Suggested route
Janshospitaal
Six of the artist’s works
are shown in the small The Belfort
chapel of the Built in the 13th century, the
12th-century Sint- Belfort or Belfry is a stunning
Janshospitaal, a city 0 metres 100 tower where the city’s
hospital that was still 0 yards 100 medieval charter of rights
operating until 1976. were held.
INTRODUCING
BRUSSELS
Day 2
Morning Start your day with a
look inside the Notre-dame du
Sablon (see p72) before heading
into the Quartier Royal (see
pp60–61), traditionally home to
Belgium’s kings and queens.
The finest of the places built Majestic interior of Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule, Brussels
G R E AT D AY S I N B R U S S E L S , B R U G E S , G H E N T & A N T W E R P 13
Day 3
Morning Rise early to explore
the fashionable Place du Grand
Sablon (see p72). The area’s
parish church, the Notre Dame
du Sablon, (see p72) is a must-
Triumphal Arch at the Parc du Cinquantenaire, Brussels see, as are the lavish gardens of
the Place du Petit Sablon (see
to escape the bustle of the city 5 Days in Brussels, pp72–3). From here, it is a short
centre. Here lies the Domaine Bruges and Ghent walk to the exceptional Palais
de Laeken (see pp90–91), the de Justice (see p73).
estate that surrounds the official Two adults allow at least €160
residence of the Belgian •
Explore the Comics Art Afternoon Head out on the
monarch. Highlights include Museum and the Musées metro to Heysel to see the
the Pavillon Chinois and the Royaux des Beaux-Art striking Atomium (see p91).
Serres Royales. The interior of Do not miss the Mini-Europe
•
Head to Bruges for a
the latter is open to the public exhibition in the Bruparck
change of scenery
in April. (see p91). Spend time exploring
•
Taste some of Belgium’s Domaine de Laeken (see
Afternoon After an alfresco best fries in Ghent pp90–91), home to the Belgian
lunch at the beautiful estate, royal family.
visitors can either walk or take
the metro two stops to Heysel, Day 1 Day 4
and the iconic Atomium (see Morning Begin your adventure Bruges is just an hour by train
p91). In the shadow of the at the Grand Place (see pp46–7), from Brussels. Explore the
Atomium is Bruparck (see p91), taking in the opulence of the picture-postcard city centre
where incredibly detailed scale Hôtel de Ville (see pp48–9) on foot – make sure you pay a
replicas of the European Union’s before making your way to the visit to the Stadhuis (see p100)
most famous buildings at Mini- equally impressive La Bourse and the Markt (see p101),
Europe are the main attractions. (see p51) and the city’s landmark, which still hosts a market
the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9). every Wednesday. After lunch,
Day 3 climb the Belfort (see p101) for
Morning Take in the splendour Afternoon Take the metro to views over the entire ancient
of the Grand Place (see pp46–7), Schuman to visit the Parc du city. Reserve ample time for
not least the Hôtel de Ville Cinquantenaire (see pp78–9), exploring Gruuthusemuseum
(see pp48–9) – take its exemplary home to many fine attractions, (see pp102–3), whose Gothic
guided tour. Don’t forget the of which the Cinquantenaire façade is alone worth the trip.
obligatory photo-op at the Museum and Autworld are not
Manneken Pis (see pp48–9) to be missed. Before heading Day 5
before being immersed in the back to the centre of town, Jump on an early train for the
fantastic Comics Art Museum have a good look around the half-hour ride to Ghent, once
(see pp54–5). Later, shop at Quartier Européen (see p76). the centre of the European
Rue Nueve (see p53), where the textile industry. Much of the
city’s best selection of stores Day 2 city’s rich history is documented
can be found on a lovely, fully Morning Start off with a stroll in the Design Museum (see
pedestrianized street. around Le Botanique (see p113), which is well worth a
p53) before heading to the visit. Fabulous town houses
Afternoon Having had lunch Comics Art Museum (see line the Graslei and Korenlei
at one of the eateries in and pp54–5). After shopping on the (see p113) on either side of the
around Rue Neuve, take the Rue Neuve (see p53), pop into River Leie, while around central
metro from de Brouckere to one of the many cafés in the Poelje-markt are the Stadhuis
Schuman and explore the area for lunch. (see p112), the 12th-century
Quartier Européen (see p76) and St Baafskathedral (see p112)
the Parc du Cinquantenaire Afternoon The regal Quartier and the Belfort (see p113).
(see pp78–9). Don’t miss the Royal (see pp60–61) is home to Don’t leave without a cone
collection of pre-Columbian art a wealth of palaces and parks, the of fries – you’ll find the best
in the Cinquantenaire Museum. finest being the Palais Royal in Ghent.
14 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
Key
Motorway
Major road Hull
Railway Vlissingen
Regional border
Knokke-Heist
Zeebrugge
0 km 20
0 miles 20 Oostende
Zelzate
Dover, Bruges Maldegem
Ramsgate
Veurne
IJz e r
Ghent
Dunkerque
Dover ldt
ie
he
Calais er Roeselare Sc
Le
IJz
FRANCE Ath
Lille
Lille Tournai
Béthune
Western Europe NO RWAY
SWEDEN
Lens
Douai
Valenciennes
North Arras
DENMARK
Sea
REP. OF UNITED
IRELAND
KINGDOM
Cambrai
NETHERLANDS
Caudry
Brussels GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
REPUBLIC
FRANCE
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
Atlantic Péronne
Ocean I TALY Saint-Quentin
SPAIN
Schiphol
Leuven
Hoek van
Holland
Rotterdam Gouda Woluwe
Ninove BRUSSELS
Rotterdam Anderlecht
Overijse
Dordrecht
NETHERLANDS Halle
Waterloo Wavre
0 km 20
Breda 0 miles 10
Bergen op
Zoom Eindhoven Eindhoven
Turnhout
Venlo
Krefeld
Weert
Antwerp
Mönchengladbach
St-Niklaas Antwerpen Herentals
S c h el d t
Lier
Erkelenz
FLAN DERS
Dendermonde Mechelen GERMANY
See inset map Demer
above Genk
Aalst Maastricht
Hasselt
Brussels
Leuven Maastricht
St-Truiden
BRUSSELS Aachen
Tongeren
Halle Wavre
La Roche-en-
Philippeville Ardenne
re
Sû
A l z ette
M ose
Chimay Bastogne
Couvin
Wiltz
lle
Le Vianden
s Libramont-
Chevigny
se
Ettelbrück
Hirson
Bouillon Sem
oi
s LUXEMBOURG
Charleville- Grevenmacher
Méziéres
Arlon
FRANCE Sedan
Luxembourg
Luxembourg
Virton
16 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
Central Brussels
Central Brussels is divided into two main areas, each of which
has its own chapter in the guide. Historically the poorer area
where workers and immigrants lived, the Lower Town contains
the exceptional 17th-century heart of the city, the Grand
Place, as well as the cosmopolitan Place de Brouckère and
the historic workers’ district, the Marolles. The Upper Town,
traditional home of the aristocracy, is an elegant area that
encircles the city’s green oasis, the Parc de Bruxelles. Running
up through the area is Rue Royale, which ends in the
18th-century Place Royale, home to the city’s finest art Yser
Ijzer
museums, including the Musée Magritte.
B LVD D ’ Y P RE S
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AT
RA
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SEST
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CHA A LA
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The focus of the Grand Place, L’ E RS
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from the early 15th century. Its INIE des Beaux Arts
LAAN
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famous needle-like crooked spire
I NCA
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Porte de Hal EN
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Hôtel des Monnaies
Munthof
La Bourse Façade
Key
Just behind the
Major sight Grand Place, on busy
Boulevard Anspach
in the Lower Town,
stands Brussels’ Stock
Exchange. It was built
in 1873 in ornate
style (see p51).
For keys to symbols see back flap
PUTTING BRUSSELS ON THE MAP 17
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Palais Royal
The official work place of the Belgian
monarch, this is one of the finest
18th-century buildings in the Upper
Town. A highlight of Neo-Classical
architecture, it overlooks Parc de
Bruxelles (see pp62–3).
18 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
IN
LAA CQMA
N
. JA
DE
RU
BLV
E
A
.D
A
NS
T H E LO W E R
AE
RT
TOWN
ST
Grand Place
R.
Palais de Justice
ON
AT
AN
LA
HA
OO
E RL
AT
E
RU W
DE
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Porte de Hal
This imposing 14th-century
tower is the only remaining
trace of the city’s solid, thick 0 metres 500
second perimeter wall. It owes
its survival to its use as an 0 yards 500
18th-century prison and
latterly as a museum (see p87).
A PORTRAIT OF BRUSSELS 19
JA
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K R D I N BV D D
UID O U
T U TA N
INL IQ
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TST E RT E
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PLACE ROYALE A IS D E
RU SAN LA
KONINGSPLEIN E B ROND PONT CE
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STR
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RU
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SLA NS
AN
TR
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TR
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LAA MAIN
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Old England
N
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This former department
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store uses glass and steel RU
E
rather than brick, with large
A
T H E LO W E R
ST
RA
TOWN
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GROTE MARKT
LA M.
AN
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PLACE ROYALE
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KONINGSPLEIN
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STR
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Hôtel Ciamberlani
HO
LA
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Albert Ciamberlani, with LO
ER
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AT
RU
whom he worked. W
DE
VD
BL
Horta Museum
AV
E
N
LERO
C
CH
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E
W
AT
E RL
Hôtel Hannon OO
This stylish 1902 town house W
AT
E
was built by Jules Brunfaut RL
OS
E
(1852–1942). One of its metal- ST
EE
NW
framed windows has striking EG
stained-glass panes (see p87).
A PORTRAIT OF BRUSSELS 23
Maison Cauchie
Restored in 1989, architect
Paul Cauchie’s home in rue
des Francs has examples of
sgraffiti, a technique in
which designs are incised
onto wet plaster to reveal
another colour beneath.
E E D E LO U V A I N
USS
C H A U V EN S E S T E E N W E G
KO
LE
LE
YA
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LAA
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G
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RU
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LA R
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LO I COBER
WE TOWN DE N
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AT AV K O
DE
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A IS D E
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CE
D
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EL R. SCHUMAN
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LIA N
RD PLEIN
STR
AA
T
RU
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D
NER ES NE
DU
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AN
TR
O
NE
TR
O
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NS
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.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Hôtel Solvay
An early Horta creation of 1894,
this home was built for a wealthy
family. Horta designed every
element of the building, from
the ochre and yellow cast-iron
façade columns and glass front
door to the decorative but
functional doorknobs (see p87).
24 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
Comic Strip
Characters
Some of the world’s best-
loved comic strip characters
originated in Belgium. Tintin
is the most famous, but
Lucky Luke the cowboy,
the cheeky children Suske
en Wiske and The Smurfs
have also been published
worldwide. Modern artists
such as Schueten break
new ground. Tintin by Hergé Lucky Luke by Morris
A PORTRAIT OF BRUSSELS 25
During the 1960s, the idea of Wiske, has been translated into 22 million comic books each
the comic strip being the Ninth English and appears as Bob and year. Today, Belgian cartoons
Art (after the seventh and Bobette in the UK, and Willy are sold in more than 30
eighth, film and television) and Wanda in the US. The countries, including the US.
expanded to include adult main characters are a pair of
themes in the form of the “ordinary” kids aged between
comic-strip graphic novel. 10 and 14 years who have
extraordinary adventures all
over the world, as well as
Peyo and The Smurfs travelling back and forth in
Best known for The Smurfs, time. Today, Vandersteen’s
Peyo (1928–92) was also a books sell in their millions.
member of the team behind
the Spirou journal which
published his poetic medieval
Comic Strip Art Today
series Johan et Pirlouit, in 1952. Comic strips, known as bandes
The Smurfs first appeared as dessinées or beeldverhaal,
characters here – tiny blue continue to be published in
people whose humorous Belgium in all their forms.
foibles soon eclipsed In newspapers,
any interest in the children’s comics and
strip’s supposed main graphic novels, the
characters. Reacting Ninth Art remains
to their popularity, one of the country’s Larger-than-life cartoon by Frank Pé
Peyo created a strip biggest exports. The adorning a Brussels building
solely about them. Set high standards and
in the Smurf village, imaginative scope of
Street Art
the stories were a new generation
infused with satirical Modern cover of artists, such as There are currently 40 large
social comment. The by Marvano Schueten and comic strip images decorating
Smurfs were a popular Marvano, have fed the sides of buildings around
craze between 1983 and 1985, growing consumer demand for Brussels’ city centre. This
featuring in advertising and comic books. Both French and outdoor exhibition is known
merchandising of every type. Flemish publishers issue over as the Comic Strip Route and
They spawned a feature-length is organized by the Comics
film, TV cartoons and popular Art Museum (see pp54–5) and
music, and had several hit the city of Brussels. Begun in
records in the 1980s. 1991 as a tribute to Belgium’s
talent for comic strip art, this
street art project continues
Willy Vandersteen to grow. A free walking map
While Spirou and Tintin were of the route is available from
French-language journals, tourist information offices
Willy Vandersteen (1913–90) and on the visit.brussels
dominated the Flemish market. Contemporary comic-strip artists at work website, as well as from the
His popular creation, Suske en in their studio Comics Art Museum itself.
Suske en Wiske by Vandersteen The Smurfs by Peyo Contemporary cartoon strip by Schueten
26 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
Spring
Brussels’ lively cultural life
takes off as the crisp spring
days lengthen and visitors
begin to arrive in the city. Music
festivals take place in a wide
variety of open-air venues.
As the city’s parks burst into
bloom, the world-famous
tropical greenhouses at Laeken
are opened to the public.
Meanwhile, Brussels’ choco-
latiers produce delicious
creations for Easter.
March
Museum Night Fever (early
Mar). One night of exhibitions,
music, dance, performances and
DJs. Twenty museums take part. The Royal Glasshouse at Laeken, famed for its rare, exotic orchids
June
Brussels Rollers (mid-Jun
to end Aug). Rollerskaters
dominate the streets of Brussels
every Friday evening as they
follow an exclusive skate route
around the city. The Ommegang pausing in front of dignitaries in the Grand Place
30 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
August
Plantation du Meiboom
(9 Aug). This traditional festival
dates from 1213. A large crowd,
all in costume and carrying
elaborate puppets, parades
around the Lower Town, finally
reaching the Grand Place,
where a May tree is planted
as a celebration of summer.
The event is accompanied
by much eating, drinking
and partying.
Tapis des Fleurs (mid-Aug,
biennially, for four days).
Taking place every other even
year, this colourful celebration
pays tribute to Brussels’ long-
established flower industry. The Grand Place, carpeted in millions of fresh flowers
BRUSSELS THROUGH THE YEAR 31
October
Hello Jazz Festival (early Christmas market in the Grand Place
Oct–mid-Dec). All over Belgium,
informal jazz concerts bring evennumber years and is a January
autumnal cheer to country must for connoisseurs of the Fête des Rois (6 Jan).
towns and the capital. contemporary music world. Epiphany is celebrated with
Performers are mainly local, Nocturnes des Sablons almond cake, the galette des rois,
but some European stars fly (last weekend). Shops and and the search for the bean
in for performances in Brussels’ galleries stay open until 11pm inside that declares its finder
Palais des BeauxArts. Ray around the Place du Grand king for the night.
Charles and Herbie Hancock Sablon. Horsedrawn carriages Antiques Fair (last two weeks).
have appeared in past years. transport shoppers around Antiques dealers from across
the area, with mulled wine on the world gather at the fair.
offer in the festively decorated
main square. February
Winter Carnival (Thu–Shrove Tue).
Rain typifies Brussels’ winter December Many cities hold parades on
weather, and attractions move Fête de Saint Nicolas the weekend before Lent.
indoors. Art galleries launch (6 Dec). The original Santa Claus,
worldclass exhibitions and the the patron saint of Christmas,
Brussels Film Festival showcases is alleged to arrive in the city on Public Holidays
new and established talent. As this day. Children throughout New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
the festive season approaches, the country are given their Easter Sunday (variable)
the ancient Lower Town is presents, as well as sweetmeats Easter Monday (variable)
brightly lit and families gather and chocolate. Labour Day (1 May)
for Christmas and prepare Reveillon/Fête de Noel
Ascension Day (variable)
traditional Belgian cuisine. (24–25 Dec). In common with
Whit Sunday (variable)
the rest of mainland Europe,
November Christmas is celebrated over Whit Monday (variable)
Ars Musica (mid-Nov, biennally). a feast on the evening of 24 Belgian National Day
This celebration of modern December. Gifts are given by (21 July)
music is one of Europe’s finest adults on this day, with 25 Assumption Day
festivals, boasting famous December traditionally (15 Aug)
performers and beautiful reserved for visiting extended All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
venues, including the Musée family. The city’s Christmas Armistice Day (11 Nov)
d’Art Ancien (see pp66–7). The decorations are displayed Christmas Day (25 Dec)
festival is held biennially on until 6 January.
THE HISTORY OF BRUSSELS 33
THE HISTORY OF
BRUSSELS
As the cultural and civic heart of Belgium since the Middle Ages, Brussels has been
the focus of much political upheaval over the centuries. But, from the battles of the
17th century to the warfare of the 20th century, it has always managed to recreate
itself with vigour. Today, as the political centre of the European Union, Belgium’s
capital is prospering as never before.
When Julius Caesar set out to conquer Roman Emperor, ruling a vast area
the Gauls of northern Europe in 58 BC, he extending from Denmark to Italy. By the
encountered a fierce tribe known as the 10th century, the inheritance laws of
Belgae (the origins of the 19th-century the Franks meant that the empire was
name “Belgium”). Roman victory led to divided up among Charlemagne’s
the establishment of the region they grandsons, Louis, Charles the Bald and
called Gallia Belgica. The earliest mention Lothair. Lothair’s fortress, founded in 977,
of Brussels itself is as “Broucsella”, or marks the official founding of Brussels.
“settlement in the marshes”, and dates The period had brought a measure of sta-
from a 7th-century manuscript. bility to the area’s volatile feudal fiefdoms,
Following the collapse of the Roman leading to a trading boom in the new
Empire in the 5th century, a Germanic towns of the low countries.
race known as the Franks came to
rule the region and established the Industrial Beginnings
Merovingian dynasty of kings, based At the start of the 12th century, commerce
in their capital at Tournai. They were became the guiding force in western
followed by the Carolingian dynasty, Europe and the centres of trade quickly
which produced one of the most grew into powerful cities. Rivers and
important figures of the Middle Ages – canals were key to the growth of
Charlemagne (AD 768–814). His noted the area’s trading towns. Ghent, Ypres,
military expertise ensured that invaders Antwerp and Bruges became the focus
such as the Northern Saxons and of the cloth trade plied across the North
the Lombards of Italy were repelled. Sea between France, Germany, Italy
He was also credited with establishing and England. Brussels, with its skilled
Christianity as the major religion across craftsmen, became a trade centre, and
western Europe. The pope rewarded him buildings such as the Cathédrale Sts
by crowning him Emperor of the West in Michel et Gudule (see pp74–5), started
AD 800; effectively he was the first Holy in 1225, demonstrated its stature.
Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy (c.1500) by Rogier van der Weyden
34 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
Spanish Rule
In 1515, at the age of 15, Charles became
Sovereign of Burgundy. The following year
he inherited the Spanish throne and, in
1519, became the Holy Roman Emperor.
As he was born in Ghent, and considered
Flanders his real home, he restored Brussels
as the capital of Burgundy. Dutch officials
Painting of the family of the Hapsburg King of Austria, Maximillian I arrived to run the three government
and Mary of Burgundy councils that were now based here.
For the first time, the city had a court.
for its grand architecture, in the form of Both aristocratic families and immigrants,
mansions and churches, and its luxury eager to cash in on the city’s expansion,
crafts trade. were drawn to the heady mix of tolerance,
intellectual sophistication and business.
The Hapsburg Dynasty Brussels quickly emerged as the most
In 1477, Mary of Burgundy, the last heir powerful city in Flanders, overtaking its
to the duchy, married Maximillian of Austria. long-standing rivals Bruges and Antwerp.
Mary died in 1482, leaving Maximillian and However, the Reformation, begun in
the Hapsburg dynasty rulers of the city at Germany by Martin Luther, was to usher
a time when Brussels was experiencing in a period of religious conflict. When
serious economic depression. In 1488, Charles V abdicated in 1555, he fractured
Brussels and the rest of Flanders the empire’s unity by leaving the
rebelled against this new power Holy Roman Empire to his brother
which had reinstated relations Ferdinand and all other dominions
with France. The Austrians held to his devoutly Catholic son, Philip
on to power largely because of II of Spain. His persecution of the
the plague of 1490 which halved Protestant movement finally
Brussels’ population. Maximillian sparked the Revolt of the Nether-
passed his rule of the Low Portrait of Charles V, lands led by the House of Orange.
Countries to his son, Philip the Holy Roman Emperor Brussels’ Protestant rulers surren-
Handsome in 1494, the year after dered to Philip in 1585. His power
he became Holy Roman Emperor. When ended when the English defeated the
Maximillian died, his daughter, Regent Spanish Armada in 1588, by which time
Empress Margaret of Austria, moved the 8,000 Protestants had been put to death.
1419 Philip the Good 1506 Margaret of Austria 1515 Charles 1555 Catholic Philip II
succeeds as Count of moves the Burgundian Hapsburg becomes succeeds Charles V as
Burgundy capital from Brussels Sovereign of religious reformation
to Mechelen Burgundy comes to Brussels
The armies of Louis XIV, the Sun King, bombard Brussels’ city walls
1599 Artist Antony van 1621 Archduke 1641 Van Dyck dies
Dyck born in Antwerp Albert dies amid new after glittering Louis XIV
1600 Antwerp becomes
bout of Protestant/ artistic career of France in
the centre of Flemish art Catholic fighting costume
Ceramic
1695 French 1713–14 Treaties of Delft plate 1760s Brussels 1788 Joseph II cancels
Bombardment Utrecht and Rastadt is cultural and Charter of Liberties
of Brussels mark beginning of artistic centre which results in liberal
Austrian period of Europe opposition
Le Théâtre de la
Monnaie
A patriotic song,
L’Amour Sacré de la
Patrie, led the
audience on the night
of 25 August 1830 to
join demonstrators
outside (see pp52–3).
Belgian Revolution
High unemployment, poor wages and a bad
winter in 1829 provoked protests about living and
working conditions. The revolution was ignited by
a patriotic and radical opera at the Brussels’ opera
house, and the largely liberal audience rushed
out into the street, raising the Brabant flag. Ten
thousand troops were sent by William to quash
the rebels, but the Belgian soldiers deserted and
the Dutch were finally driven out of Belgium.
1794 Brussels loses 1815 Belgium, allied with 1831 State of Belgium
its importance to Holland under the United formed on 21 July. Treaty of
The Hague Kingdom of the Netherlands, London grants independence
is ruled by William I of
1790 War between Orange. Brussels becomes 1835 Continental railway built
France and Austria second capital from Brussels to Mechelen
40 INTRODUCING BRUSSELS
1847 Opening of Europe’s 1871 Under Léopold II, the 1898 Flemish 1914–18 World
first shopping mall, the River Senne is reclaimed, and language given War I. Germany
Galéries St Hubert new districts built to cope equal status to occupies
with the growing city French in law Belgium
The Belgian 1884 Léopold 1910 World Fair in Brussels 1929–31 Great
Congo II is granted promotes Belgium’s industrial Depression and
sovereignty over boom. Art Nouveau flourishes reduction in
1839 Treaty of London grants the Congo foreign trade
neutrality to Belgium
THE HISTORY OF BRUSSELS 41
International Status
With the end of its colonial rule over the
Congo in 1960, Belgium might have settled
as a small country dominated by far larger
neighbours. Instead, over the next 50 years
its stature was significantly boosted by its
position at the centre of growing a European
Union. Brussels, established in 1958 as the
headquarters for what was then the Euro-
pean Economic Community (EEC), became
synonymous for the political machinery
that holds 28 different countries and 500
million citizens together.
In 1967, NATO also moved to the Belgian
capital and over the years the city has
become home to dozens of multinational
corporations wanting to be close to the
German troops raising the flag of the Third Reich at the Royal Castle heart of decision-making in Europe.
at Laeken, near Brussels
The European Capital
Belgium remained under German Contemporary Brussels maintains a
occupation until the last day of the war, balancing act between being a relaxed,
11 November 1918. old-world Flemish town and a cosmo-
The 1919 Treaty of Versailles granted politan city at the forefront of Europe,
Belgium control of Eupen-Malmédy, the its population remarkably open to the
German-speaking area in the southeast. world, almost universally multilingual
But by 1940 the country was again invaded and resolutely multicultural. But being
by the Germans under Hitler. a major world city has brought dangers
In May of that year, King as well as benefits. In 2016,
Léopold III surrendered. terrorist attacks on Brussels
Despite national resistance Airport and Maalbeek metro
to the Occupation, the king station left 33 people dead
was interned at Laeken until and 300 injured. The resilient
1944, after which he was Bruxellois refused to be cowed
moved to Germany until the The European Parliament, Brussels and the city remains steadfastly
end of the war. Rumours that welcoming to visitors. And
Léopold had collaborated with the Nazis thanks to its role as the capital of Europe,
led to his abdication in 1951, in favour of its future as a place of global importance
his 20-year-old son, Baudouin. looks assured.
Churches
4 Notre-Dame de la Chapelle
9 Eglise St-Nicolas
o Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste
s Eglise Ste-Catherine
Shopping
0 Galeries St-Hubert
y Rue Neuve
Theatres
w Théâtre Marionnettes de Toone
e Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie
p Théâtre Royal Flamand
Cultural Centres
t Le Botanique
Historic Districts
5 Quartier Marolles
6 Halles St-Géry
Hotels
u Hôtel Métropole
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Locator Map
See Brussels Street Finder map 2
La Maison des Ducs de Brabant is a
group of six guildhouses. Designed by
the Controller of Public Works, Stone busts of the ducal line
Guillaume de Bruyn, the group looks along the façade gave this
like an Italian Baroque palazzo. group of houses their name.
La Maison des
Le Renard was built in Boulangers, also
1699 as the guildhouse of known as “Le Roi
the haberdashers. Façade d’Espagne”, was a
details show St Nicolas, showpiece built
patron saint of merchants, by the wealthy and
and cherubs playing with powerful guild of
haberdashery ribbons. bakers. The 1697
octagonal copper
dome is topped
by a golden figure
blowing a trumpet.
Le Cornet displays Italianate
Flemish style. This Boatmen’s
Guildhouse (1697) is most
notable for its gable, which is Le Roi d’Espagne
constructed in the form of a now houses the
17th-century frigate’s bow. Grand Place’s finest
bar with a view of the
bustling square and
its splendours above
ground level. The gilt
bust over the
entrance represents
Saint Aubert, patron
saint of bakers. There
is a vast bust of
Charles II of Spain on
the second floor.
2 Hôtel de Ville
The idea of having a town hall to reflect Brussels’ growth
as a major European trading centre had been under
consideration since the end of the 13th century. It was not
A detail of the delicately carved façade with
until 1401 that the first foundation stone was laid and the stone statues
building was finally completed in 1455, emerging as the
finest civic building in the country, a stature it still enjoys.
Jacques van Thienen was commissioned to design the
left wing and belfry of the building, where he used ornate
columns, sculptures, turrets and arcades. The tower and
spire begun in 1449 by Jan van Ruysbroeck helped seal its
reputation. In 1995, the 1455 statue of the city’s patron saint,
Michael, was restored and it now resides inside the tower;
a copy of the statue sits on top of the tower. Tours
are available of the interior, which contains
18th-century tapestries and works of art.
137 statues
adorn walls
and many
mullioned
windows.
. Aldermen’s Room
Still in use today for the meetings
of the aldermen and mayor of
Brussels, this council chamber
contains a series of 18th-century
tapestries depicting the history of
6th-century King Clovis.
THE LOWER TOWN 49
Transport
@ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95.
v 3, 4, 32. q Gare Centrale.
. Conference Room
Council Chamber
The most splendid of all the
public rooms. Ancient tapestries
and gilt mirrors line the walls
above an inlaid floor.
Wedding Room
A Neo-Gothic style dominates this
civil marriage office, with its many
ornate carved timbers, including
Banqueting room ancient ebony and mahogany.
50 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
4 Notre-Dame de
la Chapelle
Place de la Chapelle 1, 1000 BRU.
Map 1 C4. Tel (02) 538 3087. @ 27,
48, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q Anneessens,
Centrale. Open 9am–7pm daily;
Mass 4pm Sat, 8am, 9:30am, 11am,
5:30pm Sun.
e Théâtre Royal de
la Monnaie
Outdoor seating at restaurants along Rue des Bouchers Place de la Monnaie, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 229 1211. @ 29,
q Rue des Bouchers Théâtre
w
38, 46, 47, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 88, 95.
Map 2 D2. @ 29, 38, 46, 48, 63, 66, 71, Marionettes v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère.
86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère, de Toone Open performance times, Tue–Sun;
box office: noon–6pm Tue–Sat.
Gare Centrale.
Impasse Ste Pétronille, 66 Rue du Closed Sun, public hols. & 8 on
Like many streets in this area Marché aux Herbes, 1000 BRU. Map 2 written request. ∑ lamonnaie.be
of the city, Rue des Bouchers D2. Tel (02) 511 7137. @ 29, 38, 46,
retains its medieval name, 48, 63, 66, 71, 86, 95. v 3, 4, 32. This theatre was first built in
q Gare Centrale. Open bar: noon–
reminiscent of the time when 1817 on the site of a 15th-
midnight Tue–Sun; theatre:
this meandering, cobblestoned century mint but, following
performance times 4pm Sat, 8:30pm
street was home to the a fire in 1855, only the front
Thu–Sat. Closed Mon, Tue & pub hols.
butchers’ trade. Aware of its & 8 on request, for tour
and pediment of the original
historic importance and reservations Tel (02) 217 2753. Neo-Classical building remain.
heeding the concerns of the Museum: Open intervals. After the fire, the theatre was
public, the city council ∑ toone.be redesigned by the architect,
declared this area the Ilot Joseph Poelaert, also respon-
Sacré (sacred islet) in 1960, A popular pub by day, at sible for the imposing Palais de
forbidding any night the top floor of this Justice (see p73).
of the architectural tavern is home to a The original theatre made
façades to be altered puppet theatre. During its historical mark before its
or destroyed, and the time of the Spanish destruction, however, when
commanding those Netherlands (see p36), all on 25 August 1830, a perform-
surviving to be restored. theatres were closed ance of La Muette de Portici
Hence Rue des Bouchers because of the satirical (The Mute Girl) began a national
abounds with 17th-century performances by actors rebellion. As the tenor began
stepped gables and aimed at their Latin to sing the nationalist Amour
decorated doorways. Harlequin rulers. This began a Sacré de la Patrie (Sacred love
Today, this pedestrian- puppet fashion for puppet shows, of the homeland), his words
ized thoroughfare is the vicious dialogue incited an already discontented
best known as the “belly of more easily forgiveable from city, fired by the libertarianism
Brussels”, a reference to its inanimate dolls. In 1830, of the revolutions occurring
plethora of cafés and restau- Antoine Toone opened his own in France, into revolt. The
rants offering many types
of cuisine. But the most
impressive sights during
an evening stroll along the
street are the lavish pavement
displays of seafood – piled
high on ice in winter – all
romantically lit by an amber
glow from the streetlamps.
At the end of the street, at
the Impasse de la Fidélité, is an
acknowledgement of sexual
equality. Erected in 1987,
Jeanneke Pis is a coy, cheeky
female version of her “brother”,
the more famous Manneken
Pis (see p49). The original Neo-Classical façade of Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie
THE LOWER TOWN 53
of commercial shopping.
It houses wellknown inter
national chainstores and
shopping malls, such as City 2,
which has shops, cafés and the
media store Fnac all under one
roof. Inno department store was
designed by Horta (see p86),
but after a fire in 1967 it was
entirely rebuilt.
To the east of Rue Neuve is
Place des Martyrs, a peaceful
square where a monument pays
tribute to the 450 citizens killed
during the 1830 uprising.
= City 2
Rue Neuve 123, 1000 BRU. Tel (02) 211
4060. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Thu
The 19th-century glasshouse of Le Botanique in summer & Sat, 10am–7:30pm Fri. Closed Sun,
public hols.
impassioned audience ran into by the French architect
the street in a rampage that Gineste. This iron glasshouse
developed into the September still stands, as does much of u Hôtel Métropole
Uprising (see pp38–9). The the 19thcentury statuary by Place de Brouckère 31, 1000 BRU.
theatre remains the centre Constantin Meunier (see p21), Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 217 2300.
of Belgian performing arts. including depictions of the @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 63, 66, 71, 86, 88.
Major renovations took place Four Seasons. The glasshouse v 3, 4, 32. q De Brouckère.
during the 1980s: the audi is now home to the French ∑ metropolehotel.com
torium was raised 4 m (13 ft) Community Cultural Centre
to accommodate the elaborate and offers concerts and The area lying between Place
stage designs, but the luxurious contemporary art exhibitions. Rogier and Place de Brouckère is
Louis XIVstyle decor was known as the hotel district of
carefully retained and blended Brussels, and one of the oldest
with the new additions. The y Rue Neuve and grandest hotels in the area
central dome is decorated with Map 2 D2. @ 29, 38, 46, 47, 48, 58, 61,
is the Métropole.
an allegory of Belgian arts. 63, 66, 71, 86, 88, 95. v 3, 4, 25, 32, 55. In 1891, the Wielemans
q De Brouckère, Rogier. Brewery bought the building
and commissioned the architect
r Comics Art Shoppers in Brussels have been Alban Chambon to redesign the
Museum flocking to the busy Rue Neuve interior, with money no object.
since the 19th century for its The result was a fine Art
See pp54–5. reasonably priced goods and Nouveau hotel which opened
welllocated stores. Similar to for business in 1895 and
London’s Oxford Street, but now has since accommodated
t Le Botanique pedestrianized, this is the heart numerous acclaimed visitors,
Rue Royale 236, 1210 BRU. Map 2 E1.
including actress Sarah
Tel (02) 218 3732. @ 61. v 92, 93. Bernhardt. In 1911, the hotel
q Botanique. Open 11am–6pm was the location of the first
Mon–Fri, noon–6pm Sat & Sun (till science conference Conseil
10pm on concert nights. 7 - Physique Solvay, attended by
∑ botanique.be the great scientists Marie Curie
and Albert Einstein.
In 1797, the city of Brussels The Hôtel Métropole con
created a botanical garden in tinues to welcome guests from
the grounds of the Palais de all walks of life, at surprisingly
Lorraine as a source of reference reasonable cost given its beauty,
for botany students. The garden history and location. It is
closed in 1826 and new gardens particularly popular for drinks
were relocated in Meise, 13 km in its Café Métropole and on its
(9 miles) from Brussels. heated pavement terrace, which
A grand glass and iron are both open to nonresidents
rotunda was designed at Rue Neuve, the longest pedestrian to enjoy cocktails and coffees in
the centre of the gardens shopping street in the city elegant surroundings.
54 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
The Smurfs
These tiny blue characters first
appeared in the Spirou journal in
1958. By the 1980s, they had their
own TV show and hit records.
A Suivre
Founded in 1978, A Suivre
expanded the comic strip
genre, and led to the new
form of graphic novels: adult
stories in cartoon form.
Lucky Luke
The laid-back cowboy Lucky Luke and
his talented horse Jolly Jumper, created
by Belgian artist Maurice de Bevere
(“Morris”), form one of Europe’s most
enduring comic-book double acts.
THE LOWER TOWN 55
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
20 rue des Sables, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 E2. Tel (02) 219 1980.
Open daily (library closed Mon).
&78-=
∑ comicscenter.net
Transport
@ 29, 38, 46, 47, 61, 63,
66, 71, 86, 88. v 3, 4, 32, 92, 94.
q Botanique, De Brouckère,
Rogier.
Comic Library
The museum library
doubles as a study centre
for both art students and
enthusiasts of all ages.
This unique collection
includes a catalogue of
hundreds of old comic
strips, artists’ equipment,
biographies, comic novels
and photographs.
A Horta-Designed Building
This beautiful building was constructed between
1903 and 1906 to the design of the Belgian
Art-Nouveau architect Victor Horta.
Originally built as a fabric warehouse, and
known as the Waucquez Building, it was one in
a series of department stores and warehouses in
the city designed by him. Saved from demolition
by the French Cultural Commission of Brussels,
in 1989 the building re-opened as a museum
dedicated to the comic strip, Belgium’s so-called
Ninth Art (see pp24–5). Carefully restored, the
building has many classic features of Art Nouveau
design, including the use of curves on structural
iron pillars. In the impressive entrance hall is a
display of Horta’s architectural drawings for
the building, and on the right, the Brasserie Cast-iron pillar
Horta serves traditional Belgian dishes in a
The Changing Face charming glass and marble Art Nouveau setting.
of Hergé’s Tintin
Perhaps the best-known Belgian comic
character, Tintin made his debut in a
children’s paper in 1929. He began life as
a simple black line drawing, featuring the
famous quiff, but no mouth. By 1930 Hergé
began to produce Tintin in book-form and
gave him both a mouth and a more
complex character suggested by a greater
range of facial expressions. By the 1940s
Tintin was appearing in colour, alongside
such new characters as Captain Haddock, Horta’s drawing of the museum building
the Thompsons and Professor Calculus.
56 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
Sights at a Glance
BL
AA
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9 Musée Charlier y Galérie Bortier .
VD
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BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA 59
Botanique
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ISCH
PLACE DES
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3 Eglise St-Jacques-
sur-Coudenberg
One of Brussels’ prettiest
churches, St-Jacques’
18th-century façade was
modelled exactly on a
classical temple. The barrel-
vaulted nave and half-
domed apse are sprinkled
with floral plasterwork and
ALE
contain several fine Neo-
Classical paintings
OY
E R
RU
4 . Place Royale
In the centre of this
attractive, symmetrical
square is a statue of
Godefroi of Bouillon, a
Brabant soldier who
fought the first
Catholic Crusades
and died in Palestine
E
L
A
Y
O
R
Key E
C
A
Suggested route L
P
. Parc de Bruxelles
On the site of medieval
THE LOWER
hunting grounds once used TOWN
THE UPPER
by the Dukes of Brabant, TOWN
the park was redesigned in
the 1770s with fountains,
statues and tree-lined walks.
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2
RU
E D
E L
A L
OI
Palais de la Nation
Designed by French
architect Barnabé
Guimard, the Palais de la
Nation was built in 1783
and restored in 1883 after a
fire. Since 1831, it has been
the home of both chambers
of the Belgian Parliament.
ALE
UC
E D
RU
2 . Palais Royal
The largest of the palaces, the low-rise
Palais Royal is the official work place
of the Belgian monarch and family.
PLA A flag flies to indicate when the king
CE
DE is in the country
S P
AL
AIS
2 Palais Royal
The Pilasters Room
The Palais Royal is the most important of the contains an original Franz
palaces around the Parc de Bruxelles and an Winterhalter portrait of the
first Belgian king, Léopold I,
official residence of the Belgian monarchy.
dating from 1846.
Construction of the modern palace began in the
1820s on the site of the old Coudenberg Palace
and continued under Léopold II (r.1865–1909),
when much of the exterior was completed.
Throughout the 20th century, the palace
underwent interior improvements
and restoration of its older
sections. It is open only
from late July to early
September, but this is a
fine opportunity to tour
Belgium’s lavish state
reception rooms.
. Throne Room
One of Brussels’ original state-
rooms, the huge throne room
is decorated in grand style,
with huge pilastered columns,
11 large candelabras and
28 wall-mounted chandeliers.
THE UPPER TOWN 63
7 Musée des
Instruments de
Musique
Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000
BRU. Map 2 E4. Tel (02) 545 0130.
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 95
The Victor Horta-designed façade of the Palais des Beaux-Arts
v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
5 Palais des 6 Hôtel Ravenstein Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
Beaux-Arts Rue Ravenstein 3, 1000 BRU. 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 =
Rue Ravenstein 23, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E3. Map 2 E3. @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71, 0 7 ∑ mim.be
Tel (02) 507 8200. @ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 95. v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
66, 71, 95. v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Open restaurant only. Once a department store, the
Parc. Open box office: 11am–7pm building known as Old England
Tue–Fri, 1–7pm Sat. Closed public Over the centuries, the Hôtel is a striking showpiece of Art
hols. 8 - 7 ∑ bozar.be Ravenstein has been the home Nouveau architecture located
of patrician families, soldiers by the Place Royale.
The Palais des BeauxArts owes and court officials, and, for the Architect Paul Saintenoy gave
its existence to Henri Le Boeuf, past 100 years, the Royal full rein to his imagination
a musicloving financier who Society of Engineers. The when he designed these shop
gave his name to the main building was designed at premises for the Old England
auditorium. In 1922 he com the end of the 15th company in 1899. The
missioned the architect Victor century for Adolphe façade is made entirely
Horta (see p86) to design a and Philip Cleves of glass and elaborate
cultural centre that would house Ravenstein; in wrought iron. There
concert halls and exhibition 1515 it was is a domed gazebo
areas, be open to all visitors, and the birthplace of on the roof, and a
embrace the artistic fields of Anne of Cleves. turret to one side.
music, art, theatre, cinema, archi Consisting of two Surprisingly, it was
tecture and literature. The centre parts, joined by only in the 1990s
was the first of its kind in Europe. gardens and The façade of Old England that a listed building
The complex has a fine stables, it is the last policy was adopted in
reputation and has played remaining example of a Brussels, which has secured
a key role in the cultural life Burgundianstyle manor house. treasures such as this. The
of Brussels for more than 80 The Hôtel Ravenstein was building is now home to the
years. It is the focus for the city’s acquired by the town in 1896 Musée des Instruments de
music, hosting 250 classical and used to store artworks. Musique, known as the mim,
music concerts each year, and which moved from the Sablon.
is home to the Belgian National The collection of the Musée
Orchestra. The programme also des Instruments de Musique
includes about 50 concerts of began in the 19th century
rock, pop, jazz and world music. when the state bought 80
The complex also houses ancient and exotic instruments.
the CINEMATEK, set up in It was doubled in 1876 when
1962, with its fine archive and King Léopold II donated a gift
exhibition of old cameras and of 97 Indian musical instru
lenses. It screens classic films. ments presented to him by a
maharajah. A museum display
E CINEMATEK ing all of these artifacts opened
Rue Baron Horta 9, 1000 BRU. Tel (02) in 1877, and by 1924 it boasted
551 1919. Open 5:30–10pm (or end 3,300 pieces and was recognized
of screening if later) Mon–Wed, 2:30– as a leader in its field.
10pm Thu, 5–10pm Fri & Sat, 2:30– Today, the collection contains
10pm Sun. & 7 (use Rue Ravenstein The secluded inner courtyard of the Hôtel more than 6,000 items and
entrance).∑ cinematek.be Ravenstein includes many fine examples of
THE UPPER TOWN 65
Musée Charlier, home to one of Belgium’s finest individual collections of art and furnishings
66 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
Ground
level
Gallery Guide
The gallery is divided up into two
different eras of art, as shown in Entrance to
the key. Two large auditoriums on the museum shop
the ground floor and lower levels
are used for occasional lectures as . The Annunciation (c.1406–7)
well as presentations. Visitors can The Master of Flémalle (c.1375–1444) sets the holy
enter the Musée Magritte and scene of the Archangel Gabriel announcing the
from there, the Musée Fin de Siècle, impending birth of the Messiah in a homely,
via the escalator behind the contemporary setting, with daily objects an
museum’s restaurant. apparent contrast to the momentous event.
THE UPPER TOWN 67
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Upper
level Practical Information
Rue de la Régence 3, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 508 3211.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols.
78=-0
∑ fine-arts-museum.be
Transport
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71.
v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
. The Assumption of
the Virgin (c.1610)
Pieter Paul Rubens (1577–1640)
was the leading exponent of
Baroque art in Europe, combining
Flemish precision with Italian
flair. Here, Rubens suppresses
background colours to emphasize
the Virgin’s blue robes.
Madonna with
Saint Anne and a
Franciscan Donor (1470)
Hugo van der Goes
(c.1430–82) was
commissioned to paint
this symbolic work for
the monk shown on the
right for his personal
devotional use.
To Musée Magritte and Musée
Fin-de-Siècle
Key
15th–16th century
17th–18th century
Temporary exhibitions
Lower level
Non-exhibition space
Auditorium
Level 2
Level 1
To Musée Old
. The Domain of Arnheim Masters
(1962)
The museum contains the most
extensive collection of work by
surrealist René Magritte (see p21).
Here, an eagle-mountain rears
over a small bird’s nest. The
inexplicable nature of the eerie
composition draws its elements
into question, but answers are
made deliberately difficult.
Level -2
To Musée Fin
de Siècle
Gallery Guide
Access to the museums is available through the main ticket hall of the
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique. The Musée Magritte is arranged
in chronological order over six floors. Level -2 is a multimedia area, showing
Magritte’s films. From here, stairs lead further underground to the Musée
Fin de Siècle. The area shaded in green is the permanent collection, which
displays work from the 19th and 20th centuries.
THE UPPER TOWN 69
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Place Royale 1, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D4. Tel (02) 508 3211.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, public hols.
7 8 = ∑ fine-arts-
museum.be. Musée Magritte
∑ musee-magritte-museum.be
Transport
@ 27, 29, 38, 63, 65, 66, 71.
v 92, 93. q Gare Centrale, Parc.
. La Seine à la Grande-Jatte (1888)
It was in this painting that Georges Seurat first
applied his pointilism technique on a large scale;
colour dots are juxtaposed and optically fuse in
the viewer’s eye.
Level -4
La Nature (1899–1900)
Czech artist Alphonse
Mucha was best known for
Level -3 his Art Nouveau poster
designs, but he also
created jewellery, stained
glass and sculptures like
this bronze, La Nature.
Level -6
Le Christ Vert ou
Calvaire Breton (1889)
In one of the key works of
Symbolism in painting, Paul
Gauguin depicts a Breton
woman at the foot of a
calvary, or sculpture of
Christ’s crucifixion.
Level -5
Key
Level -8
Musée Fin de Siècle: 19th
and 20th century
Musée Magritte: 1898–1929
Musée Magritte: 1930–1950
Musée Magritte: 1951–1967
Level -7 Musée Magritte: multimedia area
Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space
70 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
At the back of the gardens is palace has twice been rebuilt, in t Palais de Justice
a fountain built to commem 1750 and again in 1891, follow Place Poelaert 1, 1000 BRU. Map 1 C5.
orate Counts Egmont and ing a fire. Today, it belongs to Tel (02) 508 6578. v 92, 93, 94, 97.
Hornes, the martyrs who the Belgian Foreign Ministry. q Louise. Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.
led a Dutch uprising It was here that Great Closed Sat & Sun, public hols. 7
against the tyrannical Britain, Denmark and 8 on request.
rule of the Spanish under Ireland signed as members
Philip II, and were beheaded of the EEC in 1972. Though The Palais de Justice rules the
in the Grand Place in 1568 the palace itself is closed to Brussels skyline and can be seen
(see p33). On either side of the public, the gardens, from almost any vantage point
the fountain are 12 further whose entrances are on in the city. Of all the ambitious
statues of 15th and the Rue du Grand Cerf projects of King Leopold II, this
16thcentury figures, and the Boulevard de was perhaps the grandest. It
including Bernard van Waterloo, are open. occupies an area larger than
Orley, whose stained There is a statue of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and
glass windows grace Peter Pan, a copy was one of the world’s most
the city’s cathedral, of one found in impressive 19thcentury
and the Flemish Kensington Gard buildings. It was built between
mapmaker ens, in London. 1866 and 1883 by architect
Gerhard Mercator, Statue of Peter Pan in Many of the gar Joseph Poelaert who looked for
whose 16thcentury Palais d’Egmont gardens dens’ buildings are inspiration in classical temples,
projection of the now run down, but but died midconstruction in
world forms the basis of the ancient orangery has been 1879. The Palais de Justice is still
most modern maps. restored and has a restaurant. home to the city’s law courts.
r Palais d’Egmont
Rue aux Laines, 1000 BRU. Map 2 E4.
@ 27, 34, 38, 48, 63, 64, 65, 66, 71,
80, 95. v 92, 93, 94, 97. q Louise,
Parc. 7
y Galérie Bortier quite a considerable sum in the Parisian style. The Rue de la
Rue de la Madeleine 55, 1000 BRU.
1840s. The 65m (210ft) long Madeleine itself also offers
Map 2 D3. @ 29, 38, 63, 66, 71. Galérie Bortier was built in 1848 plenty of shops for bibliophiles
q Gare Centrale. 7 and was designed by Jean and art lovers to browse.
Pierre Cluysenaer, the architect
Galérie Bortier is the only of the Galéries StHubert
shopping arcade in the city nearby (see p51). The Galérie
dedicated solely to book and Bortier opened along with the
map shops, and it has become thenadjacent Marché de la
the haunt of students, enthus Madeleine, but the latter was
iasts and researchers looking for unfortunately destroyed by
secondhand French books and developers in 1958.
antiquarian finds. A complete restoration of
The land on which the gallery Galérie Bortier was ordered by
stands was originally owned by the Ville de Bruxelles in 1974.
a Monsieur Bortier, whose idea The new architects kept strictly
it was to have a covered arcade to Cluysenaer’s plans and
lined with shops on either side. installed a replacement glass
He put 160,000 francs of his and wroughtiron roof made Crammed interior of a bookshop at the
own money into the project, to the original 19thcentury Galérie Bortier
i Chapelle de la
Madeleine
Rue de la Madeleine, 1000 BRU.
Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 410 2957. @ 29,
38, 63, 66, 71. q Gare Centrale.
5 9am– 8pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–8pm
Sat, 9:30–11:30am & 2–8pm Sun. 7
The Statue of
St Michael is the
cathedral’s symbol of its
links with the city. While
the gilded plaster statue
is not itself historically
exceptional, its long
heritage is; the patron
saint of Brussels, the
Archangel St Michael
is shown killing the
dragon, symbolic of his
protection of the city.
Sainte Gudule
. Baroque Pulpit
The flamboyantly carved pulpit in the central
aisle is the work of an Antwerp-born sculptor,
Henri-François Verbruggen. Designed in
1699, it was finally installed in 1776.
76 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
Map 3 A4. @ 12, 21, 22, 27, 36, 38, 54, misunderstood institution.
59, 60, 64, 80, 95. q Maelbeek,
Schuman.
There is a space-age 360-degree f Parc Léopold
digital surround screen, a
Rue Belliard. Map 3 B4. @ 12, 21, 22,
Tunnel of Voices in which the
27, 36, 59, 60, 64, 79, 80. q Maelbeek,
The vast, modern, steel-and- multitude of EU languages Schuman.
glass complex, situated just can be heard, and a touch-
behind Quartier Léopold train screen feature that allows Parc Léopold is a public park
station, is one of three homes of visitors to meet the MEPs that occupies part of the
the European Parliament, the who shape European laws. grounds of an old estate.At
elected body of the European The Luna Game scavenger the end of the 19th century,
Union. Its permanent seat is in hunt – with a prize at the scientist and industrialist
Strasbourg, France, where the end – is designed to keep Ernest Solvay put forward the
plenary sessions are held once a younger children entertained. idea of a science park devel-
month. The administrative As this is a major government opment. Solvay was given the
centre is in Luxembourg and building, it is a good idea to Parc Léopold, the site of a zoo
the committee meetings take photo ID when visiting since 1847, and set up five
are held in Brussels. so as to ensure access. Visitors university centres here. Leading
This gleaming state-of-the-art should also expect airport-style figures including Marie Curie
building has many admirers, not security checks on entry. and Albert Einstein met here
least the parliamentary workers to discuss new scientific issues.
and MEPs themselves. But it is Parlamentarium The park is still home to many
not without its critics: the huge Rue Wiertz 60, 1047 BRU. Tel (02) scientific institutes, as well as a
domed structure housing the 283 2222. Open 1–6pm Mon, haven of peace in the heart of
hemicycle that seats the 700- 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat this busy political area. A walk
plus MEPs has been dubbed the & Sun. 7 - = around the pond follows the
“caprice des dieux” (“whim of the ∑ europarl.europa.eu old path of the Malbeek River.
gods”), which refers both to the
shape of the building – similar
to a French cheese of the
same name – and to its lofty
aspirations. Many people also
regret that, to make room for
the new complex, a large part of
Quartier Léopold has been lost,
though there are still plenty of
lively bars and restaurants on
Place Luxembourg, in front of
the parliament. When the MEPs
are absent, the building is often
used for meetings of European
Union committees.
Parlamentarium, the visitor’s
centre of the European Whale skeleton inside the Institut Royal des Sciences Naturelles
78 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
g Parc du Cinquantenaire
The finest of Leopold II’s grand projects, the Parc and Palais du
Cinquantenaire were built for the Golden Jubilee celebrations
of Belgian independence in 1880. The park was laid out on
unused town marshes. The palace, at its entrance, was to
comprise a triumphal arch and two large exhibition areas, but
by the time of the 1880 Art and Industry Expo, only the two
side exhibition areas had been completed. Further funds were
eventually found, and work continued for 50 years. Before
being converted into museums, the large halls on either side . Musée de l’Armée
Opened in 1923, the museum
of the central archway were venues for trade fairs, the last covers all aspects of Belgium’s
of which was in 1935. They have also been used for horse military history, and exhibits
races and to store homing pigeons. During World War II, the over 200 years of militaria.
Historic aircraft are on display
grounds of the park were turned over to vegetable growing
in the hall next door.
to feed the people of Brussels.
KEY
Tree-lined Avenue
In part formal garden, part 1 Pavillon Horta
forested walks, many of the 2 The Grand Mosque was built as
plantations of elms and plane the Oriental pavilion for the 1880
trees date from 1880. Exhibition. It became a mosque in 1978.
3 Underpass
4 The park is popular with Brussels’
Eurocrats and families at lunchtimes
0 metres 100
and weekends.
0 yards 100
THE UPPER TOWN 79
e
Ste-Cathérine
St- Katelijne
AA T
EN
Q UB A K S
ESTR
AI TEE
AEK
AU NK
w
X B AA
D L
ENS
R IQ I
UE
R.
EK
S
LA
PLACE
The Grand Place, Brussels’ theatrical centrepiece STE-CATHERINE RU
ED
0 q E BI
SS
CH
O
Grand Place and Place St Géry chocolate-making. 9 PS
ST E
R
R
U WO I
.
LE HA
EV GE
H D
N
RU NS
AA
RU
E A V
A
E AE
HL
N T
LI
RT L
RU
TO S
AC
A DE
SP
U
Z WU E
E
KI AR
8
R
EK CH
names of the streets all around it: traditional, buttery biscuits. EN E
M AU
Rue des Harengs (herrings), Rue On the opposite side of the AR X
H
KT PO
AC
Chair et Pain (meat and bread) road is the atmospheric Église Bourse UL
SP
Beurs ET
S
AN
D
AR
4
EV
UX
CH
Place de (see p51) a, a magnificent
AX LP
OU
ST RUE
M DO
MI ST X
CH MI
Brouckère (see p56). shopping arcade built in
.A
IEL CH
STR EL i KO OL S T R.
VD
AA
T On the opposite 1847. Walk through the
BL
TR
PL DE
the Boulevard street”, lined with colourful
NI
RS
BROUCKERE
VE
PLEIN
I LV
RU
TZ
EN
ED
U
right to walk the Îlot Sacré, a term that dates
EN
RU
FO
SS
RG
E
through the Passage back to 1960 when this area
’A
AU
ED
XL
OU
du Nord t, a was decreed a “sacred island”
RU
PS
o WO
LV E
PLACE
NG
RA
CHT shopping arcade to be protected from develop-
DE LA
MONNAIE
p
built in 1882. At ment. Take the second left,
RU
the end lies Rue the Petite Rue des Bouchers
ED
EL
’EC
Neuve (see p53) y, d; halfway down, on the left-
UY
ER
SC
one of Brussels’ main hand side, is an alley called
H IL
DK
NA
AP
shopping streets. At the Impasse Schuddeveld,
SST
R one end you will find at the end of which is the
RU
ARE D
the Centre Théâtre Marionettes de Toone
EN ’ A
BE ER
RGN f Marionettes de Anspach, at the (see p52) f, the famous and
R
D a Toone puppet other City 2 (see historic puppet theatre. By
BESTR
G
f OUC s
B
R
d
HE
RS
B EE
p161). From here, continuing along the Petite
NH
the Rue St-Michel leads to the Rue des Bouchers and the Rue
O
R
U
AU D M
ER
N E
G
ST
AS H E RC H O NA AT
- M RB E
AR ES E
M R
L AG S T “Belga”, under which is a
D R
GRAND KT RUE B E mausoleum for the 450 “martyrs”
PLACE
GROTE killed in the 1830 Revolution
MARKT that secured Belgium its
independence. The building on
the north of the square, decked
with Flemish flags, is the seat of
the Flemish government i.
Retrace your steps, then continue
to the Place de la Monnaie o,
0 metres 100 the site of the fine Neo-Classical
0 yards 100 opera house, the Théâtre Royal
de la Monnaie (see p52) p.
Key
The Îlot Sacré
Walk route By walking some 200 m (220 yd)
along the Rue de l’Écuyer, you s Restaurants with outdoor tables on the
come to the northern entrance traffic-free Rue de Bouchers
For keys to symbols see back flap
82 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
R AUR
D
masterpieces, but it was M
U
A X H AR
G
S- E C
M RB H
A E E
RK S
T
GRAND PLACE
GROTE MARKT
T
AA
TR
2
DS
APS
UI
MAR
RU
I Z
H
ED
3 FR
SC
E OM
TR S
ID
SS IER
ED
Manneken Pis and the street, the Rue de la Violette,
M
E R NN
RU
R.
ST
LO
A KRO
U
R ME P E
O
O
BA
ST
OO S
Leave the Grand Place via the Musée du Costume et de la
RU
RD
SP DE
5
E
TR
UV
R
A
’ET
PLACE ST JEAN
RD
ST JANSPLEIN
CH
N R
E
E
who did much to preserve the site of a public bathhouse in EL
K S T R A AT
GADE L
ST ’HO
HU P
historic face of Brussels. At the Middle Ages. At the ISS ITA
TR L
R U E DR A P S T
LL DE
EB S
prison named the Amigo by the Manneken Pis (see pp48–9) RO AL
ES C T
ER EX
SS IEN .
the 16th-century rulers of the 5. Take the Rue du Chêne, VD
AL
TR S
.
BL
IER
RU
1965. The sloping Chapelle Royale s, to the right,
LA
ON E
AR E D
M D
T
AI D.
EN
triangular space
PLACE SAINTE-GUDULE was where King Léopold I
RL BLV
’A BE
EN
SINTER-GUDULEPLEIN
R R
G BE
ST R
RU
BE E D R G nearby is the worshipped. At the top of Rue
j
BE
E N ES
H O B OU
UW NE Place du Grand Ravenstein is the 15th-century
AG
ER
CH S
T
ON Sablon (see p72) q. Hôtel Ravenstein (see p64) d.
E RT R .
S
M AT
LA A
The fountain of You can see the spire of the
R UO K
E TR
AN ICE
E D RGS
E SU
RU IES
DE M
L
L OST R
R
C O NST
K E I Z E R M P E R AT
X UA A
k E S IE
middle of the square, Place) over the gardens on the
MT
INLA
D ON
R DU
KAR CAR
D. M D. E OL was erected in 1751 Mont des Arts to the northeast.
RU K
ER ME
CIE RC
with funds from Thomas The modern building to the
B D D E L’ I
RS IE
TR R
PUT
MA G
IE
King James II of England. The Bibliothèque Royale Albert I
ER
E LA AS
T
ES
PU
T Gare Centrale Sablon still retains an upmarket f, the national library. Walk
RD Centraal Station
M A TEE
A AT
U E
IV D
EIN S T E
RU E ST
g h
ER ES
SS SO makers (shop at revered for leading Belgian
ST JA NSJE AN TR L
ST EN
ST R. A S
AT No. 6; café and troops in World War I. The arch
N V
VE R A
R MONT DES ARTS pâtisserie at No. 12). at the lower end of the street
U
RE f
R A UE
KUNSTBERG
PE AN d
At Rue des Sablons 11 called Mont des Arts has a
R
EM A
L’ RSL a is a branch of Le Pain carillon clock h on the side
s
DE IZE Quotidien r, famed facing up the hill that includes
K E
p for its bread and figures from Belgian history that
R.
ST
PLACE
ROYALE the Place du the Cathédrale Sts Michel et
KONINGS
PLEIN Grand Sablon Gudule (see pp74–5) j. On the
i o is the beautiful route back to the Grand Place,
e Notre-Dame du stop in the Place Agora to
Sablon (see p72) t. admire Burgomaster Charles
CE
q R BO
AT
EN
DE
G
w NBR O
RE
ST
ST R .
r
A
t
Z
DE EL
TS
EN
SA R
RE
O T
medieval guildsmen.
u
y
Place Royale and Cathedral
Heading north along the Rue
de la Régence, you reach the
0 metres 100 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts
0 yards 100 de Belgique (see pp66–71) i,
the city’s most important art
Key gallery, which houses the
Musée Magritte. Beyond lies the
Walk route
Place Royale (see p63) on the h The modern carillion clock on the arch
top of the Coudenberg, the in the Mont des Arts
For keys to symbols see back flap
BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA 85
GREATER BRUSSELS
Past the heart-shaped ring-road of Brussels north, Heysel offers attractions whose
city centre lie 19 suburbs (communes) which modernity contrasts with the historical city
form the Bruxelles-Capitale region. While centre. The 1958 Atomium, now restored,
many are residential, a handful are definitely stands next to the Bruparck theme park. To
worth the short ride to sample outlying the east, the Central Africa Museum reflects
treasures of Brussels’ fascinating history. For Belgium’s colonial past in the Congo, and
fans of early 20th-century architecture, the the tram museum takes a journey through
suburb of St-Gilles offers numerous original Brussels’ urban past. Peace and tranquillity
examples of striking Art Nouveau buildings, can be found close to the metropolis, in the
including the Horta Museum. In Koekelberg orderly landscape of Royal Laeken and
and visible from the Upper Town is the huge the lush green spaces of the Bois de la
Sacré-Coeur basilica, started in 1904. To the Cambre and the Fôret de Soignes.
Sights at a Glance
Churches and Cathedrals Key
Parks and Gardens
8 Basilique Nationale du Sacré- 5 Fôret de Soignes Central Brussels
Coeur q Domaine de Laeken see pp90–91 Motorway
e Bruparck
Historic Monuments, Buildings Major Road
and Districts Museums and Exhibition Areas Minor road
2 Avenue Louise 1 Horta Museum see p86
Railway
3 St-Gilles 9 Musée du Tram
4 Ixelles 0 Musée Royal de l’Afrique
6 Uccle Centrale
7 Anderlecht w The Atomium
Antwerp
Wemmel
N12
Brussels
Airport
Zellik R2
1
Diegen
Ghent
1
A20 Zaventem
A10 Evere
Ganshoren Jette
Ste-Agatha- N2 Leuven
Schaerbeek
R0
Berchem
Koekelberg A2
R0
St-Josse Kraainem
R20
Molenbeek
Dilbeek N8 Woluwe-Saint-
BRUSSELS Lambert
Ninove Anderlecht
Etterbeek Woluwe-
N6 Saint-Pierre
St-Gilles
Ixelles
N3 Tervuren
Forest Auderghem
Watermael-
N5
N4
Uccle Boitsfort
A7
0 km 2
Drogenbos 0 miles 2
Ruisbroek Mons
The Atomium monument in the Heysel Park, Brussels For keys to symbols see back flap
86 BRUSSELS AREA BY AREA
Front entrance
Madame Horta’s
sitting-room features
blue-and-cream wool rugs
woven to Horta’s design,
and a marble fireplace.
. Dining Room
White enamel tiles line
the walls, rising to an Living Room
ornate ceiling, The detail of Horta’s work can
decorated with the be best seen here, from
scrolled metalwork used sculpted bannister ends to
in other rooms. finely wrought door handles.
G R E AT E R B R U S S E L S 87
4 Ixelles
@ 34, 54, 64, 71, 80. v 7, 25, 81, 93,
94. q Porte de Namur.
r Groenendaal Arboretum
Duboislaan 6, 1560 BRU. Tel (02) 657
2203. Open 1–5pm Wed–Sun.
∑ bosmuseum.be
6 Uccle
@ 38, 60. v 3, 7.
9 Musée du Tram
Ave de Tervuren 364b, BRU 1150.
Tel (02) 515 3110/3108. v 39, 44, 94.
Open Apr–Sep: 1–5pm Wed (no
rides),1–7pm Sat, Sun & pub hols.
Group tours possible. Sun and pub
hols: three-hour round tour to Heysel
(leaves 10am). Closed Oct–Mar. &
q Domaine de Laeken
In the 11th century Laeken became popular among pilgrims
after reported sightings of the Virgin Mary. Since the 19th
century, however, it has been firmly associated in the minds
of all Belgians with the nation’s monarchy. A walk around
the sedate and peaceful area reveals impressive buildings
constructed in honour of the royal location, not least the
sovereign’s official residence and its beautifully landscaped . Pavillon Chinois
parkland. More surprising is the sudden Oriental influence. Architect Alexandre Marcel
designed this elaborate building
The great builder, King Léopold II, wanted to create an archi (built 1901–9) as part of
tectural world tour; the Chinese and Japanese towers (currently Leopold II’s grand vision.
closed for restoration) are the only two buildings that came to
fruition, but show the scope of one monarch’s vision.
. Serres Royales
These late
19th-century
glasshouses are
home to exotic
trees, palms and
camellias. Open to
the public annually
in April, they are the
king’s private property.
KEY
1 Parc Royal
2 Monument Léopold stands as
the focus of the park complex and
layout. It honours Léopold I, first king
of the Belgians. Built in Neo-Gothic
style, it has a filigree cast-iron canopy
and tracery around the base.
3 Place de la Dynastie is part of
the attractive park that was once the
Royal Family’s private hunting
ground.
4 Villa Belvedere is home to
King Albert II and Queen Paola, who
stayed here instead of moving to
the Château Royal on accession
to the throne.
5 Tour Japonais
6 Domaine Royale de Laeken is
the royal estate, adjacent to the Parc
de Laeken in the city district of Laeken; Château Royal
the woodland features old magnolias The Belgian royal residence was built in the late 18th
and blooming hawthorns. century by architect-contractor Louis Montoyer following
plans by renowned French architect Charles de Wailly.
G R E AT E R B R U S S E L S 91
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Laeken, 1020 BRU.
Château Royal: Ave du Parc Royal.
Closed to public.
Serres Royales: Ave de Prince
Royal. Tel (02) 551 2020.
Open mid-Apr–mid-May
(phone for details). & 8–10pm
Fri–Sun.
Pavillon Chinois: Ave J van Praet
44. Closed for structural repairs.
Tour Japonais: Avenue J van
Praet 44. Closed for structural
repairs. &
Eglise Notre Dame de Laeken:
Paris Notre Dame. Tel (02) 479 The Atomium rising 102 m (335 ft) over the Bruparck at dusk
2362. Open 2–5pm Tue–Sun.
Transport
w The Atomium you around the landscapes of
@ 47, 49, 53, 57, 84, 88, 89. Square de l’Atomium, 1020 BRU.
the European Union. Built at a
v 3, 7, 19, 51, 62, 93. Tel (02) 475 4775. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7, scale of 1:25, the collection
q Heysel, Bockstael. 19, 51, 93. q Heysel. Open 10am– displays buildings of social or
6pm daily. & 0 ∑ atomium.be cultural importance, such as
the Acropolis in Athens, the
Built for the 1958 World Fair (see Brandenburg Gate of Berlin and
p39), the Atomium is probably the Houses of Parliament from
the most identifiable symbol of London. Even at this scale, the
Brussels. As the world moved detail is such that it can be
into a new age of science and second only to visiting the
space travel at the end of the sights themselves.
1950s, so the design by André For film fans, Kinepolis cannot
Waterkeyn reflected this with a be beaten. Large auditoriums
structure of an iron crystal, show a range of popular films
magnified 165 billion times. from different countries on
Each of the nine spheres that 24 screens. The IMAX cinema
make up the “atom” are 18 m features surround sound and
(60 ft) in diameter, and linked a semi-circular 600 sq m
by escalators and stairs. They (6,456 sq ft) widescreen.
include exhibition rooms and a If warmth and relaxation
smart restaurant at the top of are what you are looking for,
the structure. Océade is a tropically heated
water park, complete with
giant slides, wave machines,
e Bruparck bars, cafés and even realistic
Boulevard du Centenaire, 1020 BRU. recreated sandy beaches.
Tel (02) 474 8383. @ 84, 88. v 3, 7,
19, 51, 93. q Heysel. Mini-Europe &
Océade: Tel (02) 478 0550 (Mini-
Europe); (02) 478 4320 (Océade).
Open Mar–Sep: 9:30am–6pm daily
(Jul–Aug: to 8pm); Oct–mid-Jan:
10am–6pm daily. Closed end Jan–Feb.
& Kinepolis: Tel (02) 474 2600.
Open perfomances. & for films. 0
∑ minieurope.be ∑ kinepolis.be
Bruges 98–107
Bruges Walk 108–109
Ghent 110–115
Antwerp 116–125
Antwerp Walk 126–127
Lier · Mechelen · Dendermonde
Pajottenland · Halle 128–129
Leuven 130–131
Waterloo · Ath · Ypres 132–133
A Tour of World War I
Battlefields 134–135
BEYOND BRUSSELS 95
BEYOND BRUSSELS
Brussels lies at the heart of Belgium, on the divide
between the Flemish north and the French-speaking
Walloon south. Its central position makes Brussels an BRUSSELS
ideal base for visitors: within easy reach by road and rail are
the historic Flemish cities of Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. All of
these cities have fine late-medieval architecture, superb museums
and excellent restaurants – yet each is markedly different in character.
Zeebrugge Knokke-Heist
Blankenberge
Oostende
BRUGES Maldegem
Zelzate
Eeklo
Wachtebeke
Gistel
Nieuwpoort Beernem
De Panne Eernegem
Koksijde Koekelare Zomergem Evergem
Ijzer
Torhout Aalter
Calais Veurne
Diksmuide Ruiselede GHENT
WEST- Lichtervelde
De Pinte
VLAANDEREN Deinze
Merelbeke
A TOUR OF Roeselare
WORLD WAR I Izegem
GavereOOST-
BATTLEFIELDS Langemark
Waregem
VLAANDER
Herzele
ie
Poperinge
Harelbeke
Le
Oudenaarde
Kemmel
YPRES Kortrijk t
eld
Menen Sch Brakel
Avelgem
Ploegsteert Mouscron Ronse Geraardsbergen
Lille Dottignies
Celles
Frasnes-lez-
re
nd
Buissenal
Scheldt
De
Tournai ATH
Attre
Leuze
Rumes Antoing
Bléharies
HAINA
Jurbise
Péruwelz
Valenciennes
Frameries
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Province border
Getting Around
In Belgium, distances are short, with a
wide choice of routes – even the tiniest
village is easily reached. Brussels sits at
the hub of several major highways such
as the A10 and the A1 (which link the
capital to the country’s principal towns).
The fully integrated public transport
system has frequent train services and
a comprehensive bus network.
Kalmthout Mar
k
Brecht Arendonk
Sch
Turnhout
dt Brasschaat Westmalle Eindhoven
el
Merksem
ANTWERPEN
te
Ne
e Dessel
ANTWERP Wijnegem ein
Kl
Moerbeke Sint- Herentals
Nijlen Geel
Niklaas Wilrijk Alb Mol
ertk
Temse LIER Gr ana
al Leopoldsburg
ote
Lokeren Westerlo
Boom
Ru
Duffel
Ne
el Tessenderlo
p
t
eld
DENDERMONDE Paal
MECHELEN Genk
ch
S Tremelo
Dijle
er
Lebbeke Zemst r
Deme
nd
De
UT Soignies Gembloux
Namur
Sombreffe
0 kilometres 15
Mons La Louvière
0 miles 15
Binche Charleroi Auvelais
Châtelet
Anderlues
Thuin
re
b
Sa m Sights at a Glance
Erquelinnes
1 Bruges 8 Halle
Beaumont 2 Ghent 9 Leuven
3 Antwerp 0 Waterloo
4 Lier q Ath
5 Mechelen w Ypres
6 Dendermonde e A Tour of World War I
7 Pajottenland Battlefields pp134–5
98 BEYOND BRUSSELS
1 Street-by-Street: Bruges
With good reason, Bruges is one of the most popular tourist
destinations in Belgium. An unspoilt medieval town, Bruges’
winding streets pass by picturesque canals lined with fine
buildings. The centre of Bruges is amazingly well preserved.
The town’s trade was badly affected when the River Zwin
silted up at the end of the 15th century and Bruges was never
heavily industrialized, retaining most of its medieval buildings
as a result. As a further bonus, it also escaped major damage T
RK
in both World Wars. A
M
Today, the streets are well maintained: there are no
billboards or high rises, and traffic is heavily regulated. All the
major attractions are located within the circle of boulevards
that marks the line of the old medieval walls.
S
T
.
N
IK
L
A
A
S
S
T T
A R
A .
R
T LOPPEM
S
S
N
T
E
R
E
SI
G
A
The Rozenhoedkaai T R
ST
A
S U
MO
T
A charming introduction to Bruges is B
E
EV
U
IN
N
EIN
IE
U
W
ST. SAL
ST
MA
R
A
RIA
A
T
STR
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TO
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KE F
RKHO
T
Memling in Sint-
Janshospitaal
Six of the artist’s works
are shown in the small
chapel of the
12th-century Sint-
Janshospitaal, a city 0 metres 100
hospital that was still 0 yards 100
operating until 1976.
BRUGES 99
RG
BU
W
O
L
L
E
S
19th-century Vismarkt.
I
A
A
K
ED
O
H
EN
Z
O
R
Heilig Bloed
Basiliek
R
VE
IJ
D
. Stadhuis
One of the oldest and finest town halls
Groeningemuseum in Belgium, this was built between
(see pp104–5) 1376 and 1420. Inside, the beautifully
restored Gothic hall is noted for its
1385 vaulted ceiling.
Arentshuis Museum
Gruuthusemuseum
Key
(see pp102–3)
Suggested route
The Belfort
Built in the 13th century, the
Belfort or Belfry is a stunning
tower where the city’s
medieval charter of rights
were held.
100 BEYOND BRUSSELS
Gruuthusemuseum
The Gruuthusemuseum occupies a large medieval mansion close to
the Dijver Canal. In the 15th century it was inhabited by the merchant 2nd Floor
(or Lord of the Gruuthuse) who had the exclusive right to levy a tax on
the “Gruut”, an imported mixture of herbs added to barley during the
beer-brewing process. The mansion’s labyrinthine rooms, with their
ancient chimneypieces and wooden beams, have survived intact and
hold a priceless collection of fine and applied arts. There are tapestries,
wood carvings, furniture and even a medical section devoted to cures
of everyday ailments. The kitchen and original 1472 chapel
transport visitors back to medieval times. The museum will be
closed for restoration until 2018.
1st Floor
Ground
Floor
. Charles V bust
This incredibly life-like
terracotta and wood
bust of Hapsburg king Entrance
Charles V was carved in
1520 and is attributed to
German sculptor Konrad Meit.
Groeningemuseum
Bruges’ premier fine arts museum, the Groeninge
holds a fabulous collection of early Flemish and Dutch
masters, featuring artists such as Jan van Eyck (d.1441)
and Hieronymous Bosch (1450–94), famous for the
strange freakish creatures of his moral allegories. Hugo
van der Goes is well represented too, as is Gerard David
(d.1523). These early works are displayed on the ground . Virgin and Child with Canon
floor of the museum, as well as a collection of later (1436)
Belgian painters, most notably Paul Delvaux (1897– Jan van Eyck’s richly detailed painting
1994) and René Magritte (1898–1967). Originally built is noted for its realism. It shows van
Eyck’s patron, the canon, being
between 1929 and 1930 on land belonging to the presented to St Donatian by
former Eekhout Abbey, the museum is small and St George.
displays its collection in rotation, along with various
temporary exhibitions.
Last Judgement
Painted on three oak panels in the early
16th century, this detail from Hieronymous
Bosch’s famous triptych depicts scenes of
cruelty and torture. The strong moral tone of
the work suggests that man’s sinful nature has
created a hell on earth.
Judgement of Cambyses
(1498)
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Originally commissioned
Practical Information
by the city of Bruges for
Dijver 12, 8000 Bruges.
the town hall, this left
Map B4.
panel of a diptych by
Tel (050) 44 8743.
Gerard David depicts a
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
judge sentenced to be
(tickets till 4:30pm). Closed 1 Jan,
flayed alive.
25 Dec. & 7
∑ bezoekers.brugge.be
Transport
@ Markt.
Household Cares
(1913)
Rik Wouters used
his wife Nel as
the model for this
statue, cast in
bronze. The work’s
Fauvist style (see
p21) is reflected in
the bold planes that
First floor
enhance the figure’s
anxious stance.
Entrance
Serenity (1970)
This representative
work by Paul Delvaux
was commissioned by
the museum, and
retains elements
of the artist’s
surrealist style.
Gallery Guide
The Groeningemuseum is
divided between two buildings.
The main portion of the museum
Key is on one level with a series of
Museum Façade
rooms displaying the early Originally built in 1930, the gallery
15th and 16th centuries
Flemish masters as well as works was extended in 1994 to a design
17th to 19th centuries from the 17th to 20th centuries. by architect Joseph Viérin. The old
20th century Nearby, the Arentshuis (see p101), entrance is based on that of a
Cabinet displays displays temporary exhibitions Romanesque convent.
and houses a permanent
Non-exhibition space
collection of work by the artist
Frank Brangwyn on its first floor.
106 BEYOND BRUSSELS
dead”, as its name roughly The historic buildings and lovely canals of
translates, is located just northeast Bruges
south of the Kruispoort and
commemorates a dozen men demons. Behind the altar is a
executed by German firing smaller vaulted chapel; leading
squad in 1916. Eleven of them from this is a narrow tunnel
were Belgian, shot for resisting guarded by an iron grate. Along
German rule. The twelfth was the tunnel, a lifelike model of
Captain Fryatt, a British mer- Christ in the Tomb can be seen
Lace-making skills on show at chant navy officer. His arrest at close quarters.
the Kantcentrum lace centre and execution here caused
almost as much outrage P The Kruispoort and
P Kantcentrum around Europe as the death the Windmills
Balstraat 16. Map C2. Tel (050) 33 0072. of Edith Cavell in Brussels a Map C2.
Open Mon–Sat (daily Apr–Sep). & year earlier. Medieval Bruges was heavily
The area from the white- fortified. It was encircled
washed cottages to the east R Jeruzalemkerk by a city wall which was itself
of Potterierei Street is one of Peperstraat. Map B3. Open Mon– protected by a moat and
several old neighbourhoods Sat. & strengthened by a series of
where the city’s lace workers The Jeruzalemkerk is Bruges’ massive gates. Most of the
plied their craft. Mostly, the most unusual church. The wall was knocked down in the
women worked at home, present building dates from 19th century, but the moat
receiving their raw materials the 15th century, and was built has survived and so has one
from a supplier who also on the site of a
bought the finished product. 13th-century chapel
Lace-making skills are kept commissioned by
alive at the Kantcentrum, the a family of wealthy
Lace Centre on Balstraat, where Italian merchants,
local women (and a few men) the Adornes family,
fashion lace in a variety of whose black marble
styles, both modern and tomb can be seen
traditional. It is a busy place, inside. Based on
and visitors can see the the design of the
lace-making demonstrations church of the
held on Monday to Saturday Holy Sepulchre in
afternoons in the summer. Jerusalem, the
Some of the finished pieces are structure possesses
sold in the Kantcentrum shop a striking tower with
at very reasonable prices. two tiers of wooden,
polygon-shaped
P Beluik der Gefusilleerden lanterns topped by a
Map C3. tin orb. Inside, the
Bruges was occupied by the lower level contains
German Army during both a macabre altarpiece,
World Wars. The bullet-marked carved with skulls
“Wall of those who were shot and assorted The Jeruzalemkerk, built in 1497
BRUGES 107
R
Archduke Maximilian
E
KE
RS
ST
of Austria was R.
8
2 The Provinciaal Hof housing the local imprisoned by the a
7
government offices Bruges’ authorities
VLAM
f s 6
in 1488. A walk
KU
A L D E N ST R .
d 5
INGST
IPE
RSSTRA AT
JAK
NA
BS
R
A
A
T
the Markt (see p101). The 19th- a handsome Neo-
century statue in the centre Classical building h EIER-
AT
MARKT
RA
MUNT
Jan Breydel 1, the guildsmen 33 is the former 1
ER
PLEIN
MO
T MARKT
A
who led a revolt against their Genuese Loge R
A 3
AT
French overlords in Bruges in 6, the lodge of SSTRA
T
g AND
TS
M 4
O
T - A
N
S
N
M
A
H
N
LD
M
GE
ST
S
ST R.
(see p34), a key date in Flemish from 1399, which RA
A
nationalism. Goods came into now houses the Friet T
Jeruzalemkerk
Back on Spinolarei, cross the
canal on Strooibrug. Straight
ahead is Blekersstraat, with Café
Vlissinghe e on the right. This is
reputedly Bruges’ oldest tavern,
dating from 1515. Heading
south down St-Annarei, the first
left leads to the St Annakerk r,
a pretty parish church from y A room at Bruges’ folk museum, the Volkskundemuseum
R.
RI JK EP IJNAT
E. ZORGHESTR.
u SS
T Naaldenstraat 19 is Hof Bladelin
EI
ER
ST RA
ERDS
RM
L A N GE R E
P O T T ER I E R
CA
1450 by Pieter Bladelin; after
DE
EG
TR.
O. GISTELHOF
LW
RO 1469, it was owned by the
RS
G OU D E N H A N D S T R A A
T MERS
STR. Medici Bank of Florence. Hotel
CAR
JE
Lucca s, at Naaldenstraat 30, is
B A L S T R A AT
RU
G O UDE N - H A N
DREI R. y on the site of the trading house
o RS
ST ZA
LE
BL
EK
E
M
ST
of the merchants of the Italian
O
F e RA
AT city of Lucca. The alley off
TH
EN
t
Naaldenstraat called Boterhuis
ST
G
EI
-A
LR
NN
GE
RV
IE
SP of the old Butter House and
AR
ER
EI r
AR
EI
q OL
IJK
IN
9 SP St Jakobskerk f. This fine
KO
ENGE
RS
NI
0
Gothic church – with Baroque
w
NG
EE
LSE
NM
LE
R.
O
M
JAN
SSTRA
AT The route along Moerstraat
S T-
1497. The Jeruzalemkerk and Ontvangersstraat marks
ST JAN
PLEIN (see p106) t on Peperstraat is the bounds of the Prinsenhof,
very different, built in the the former palace of the Dukes
15th century and themed on of Burgundy, which is now the
pilgrimage sites in the Holy first and only five star hotel in
.
STOC
KSTR Land. On Balstraat is the Bruges g. Geldmuntstraat is
PHILIP 0 metres 100
Kantcentrum, the Lace Centre named after the old mint that
0 yards 100
2 (see p106). A row of almshouses, stood on the little square
also in Balstraat, is now the called Muntplein; it leads back
Museum voor Volkskunde to the Eiermarkt (Egg Market)
(see p107) y, a folk museum h and the Markt.
that paints a vivid picture of
life in old Bruges. The only
Tips for Walkers
domed church in Bruges
is in the English Convent Starting point: The Markt
(Engelsklooster) (see p107) u, on Length: 3.7 km (2.3 miles)
Carmersstraat. Head back west Getting there: The Markt is within
along Carmersstraat, cross the walking distance of almost all
canal on the Carmersbrug, and hotels in Bruges; bus routes from
turn right to reach St Gilliskerk all directions also go to this hub.
Stopping off points: There
i, an attractive church dating
are a multitude of cafés and
from the 13th–15th century. A
restaurants around the Markt, but
series of cobbled streets leads very few beyond Vlamingstraat.
to a picturesque section of canal A famous exception is the
at the Augustijnenbrug. The venerable old tavern called
street on the opposite side Cafe Vlissinghe in Blekersstraat
The Spinolarei canal, one of Bruges’ called Spaanse Loskaai o recalls (No. 13 on this walk).
principal waterways that this was once the Spanish
For keys to symbols see back flap
110 BEYOND BRUSSELS
2 Street-by-Street: Ghent
As a tourist destination, the Flemish city of Ghent has long
been overshadowed by its neighbour, Bruges. In part this
reflects their divergent histories. The success of the cloth
trade during the Middle Ages was followed by a period of
stagnation for Bruges, while Ghent became a major indus
trial centre in the 18th and 19th centuries. The resulting
pollution coated the city’s antique buildings in layers of
grime from its many factories. In the 1980s, Ghent initiated
a restoration programme. The city’s medieval buildings
were cleaned, industrial sites were tidied up and the canals
. Het Gravensteen
were cleared. Today, it is the intricately carved stonework Ghent’s centre is dominated
of its churches and antique buildings, as well as the city’s by the thick stone walls and
excellent museums and stern, forbidding castle, that give imposing gatehouse of its ancient
the centre its character. Castle of the Counts.
. Design Museum
Ghent
This elegant I
19th-century dining LE
N
room is just one of many AA
KR
charming period rooms
in the decorative arts ST LE
ER N
museum. The collection T V E LEI
AA P
is housed in an TR
R GS
18th-century mansion BU G
and covers art and R
O
design from the 1600s E
N
to the present.
T
E
M
A
R
K
Graslei
T
One of Ghent’s
most picturesque
streets, the Graslei
overlooks the River Leie
on the site of the city’s GR ASBURG
medieval harbour. It is
lined with perfectly
preserved guildhouses;
some date from the
12th century.
KOR TE MUNT
To Ghent St-Pieters
and Stadsmuseum
Korenmarkt
Key
This busy square was once the
corn market; the commercial Suggested route
centre of the city since the
Middle Ages. Today, it is lined
with popular cafés.
GHENT 111
Transport
£ St-Pieters. @ St-Pieters.
v Korenmarkt.
Stadhuis
Visitors can view this throne
room in the town hall, which
displays the 1780 coronation
throne of Joseph II.
G
A
D
IJ
R
T
V
K
R
T
A
N
M
U
M
E
G
N
K
LA
A
M
O E
N R
D S
ER T
R
ST A
RA A
T
AT
HO
OG
PO
OR
T
AT
A
TR
S
RT
FO
. St Baafskathedraal
BEL
T
TE
LS
TR
A AT
St Niklaaskerk
P Stadhuis
Botermarkt 1. Map F2. Tel (09) 266
7170. & 8 May–Oct: 3pm Mon–
Thu. Tours depart 2:30pm from the
Tourist Office.
Tiled flooring forms a maze in the Pacification Hall in Ghent’s Stadhuis The Stadhuis façade displays
two different architectural styles.
Getting Around trams travel to the centre Overlooking Hoogstraat, the
Ghent is a large city with an every few minutes. However, older half dates from the early
excellent bus and tram system. many of Ghent’s main sights 16th century, its tracery in the
The main rail station, Ghent are within walking distance elaborate Flamboyant Gothic
St-Pieters, adjoins the bus of each other. Canal boat trips style. The plainer, newer part,
station from where several are also available. which flanks the Botermarkt, is
The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb great early Flemish artists, Jan van
Eyck, and his lesser-known
brother, Hubrecht.
Completed in 1432, it is not
only exquisitely painted; it is also
an expression of the deepest
beliefs of Christianity – that human
salvation lies in the sacrifice of
Christ, the Lamb of God. What
you see today is almost entirely
original; only the lower left panel
is a modern copy, following its
theft in 1934. This is a remarkable
achievement, given the painting’s
history. It was rescued from
Protestant church-wreckers in
1566 and from fire in 1822; parts of
it were removed by French soldiers
The 12 panels of the painting, with the main image at the centre in 1794, and other parts were sold
in 1816. Audioguides to the
In a side-chapel of Sint Baafskathedraal, in the centre of Ghent, is one of painting (included in the price
the greatest cultural treasures of northern Europe. The Adoration of the of the entry ticket) explain the
Mystic Lamb is a monumental, multi-panelled painting by the first of the significance of the 12 panels.
GHENT 113
R St Niklaaskerk
Cataloniëstraat. Map E2. Open daily.
This merchants’ church, built in
the 13th–15th centuries, was
dedicated to their patron saint,
St Nicholas, Bishop of Myra (and
Santa Claus). The church is a fine
example of the distinctive and
austere style called Scheldt
Gothic. The interior was once
packed full of guild shrines and
chapels, until Protestant church-
wreckers destroyed them in
1566; today it is remarkable for The view over Ghent from the Belfort belltower
114 BEYOND BRUSSELS
+ Het Gravensteen
Sint-Veerleplein. Map E1. Tel (09) 225
9306. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. &
∑gravensteen.stad.gent
Once the seat of the counts
of Flanders, the imposing stone The Patershol’s 17th-century buildings which now house shops and cafés
GHENT 115
P Vlaamse Opera
Schouwburgstraat 3. Map E3. Tel (09)
268 1011. Open for performances;
guided tours third Saturday of the
month. & ∑ operaballet.be
This classic opera house was
built in 1837–40; it has been
restored to reclaim its reputation
as one of the most spectacular
theatres in Europe, with an
auditorium and adjoining
salons encrusted with gilding,
chandeliers and sculptural
decorations. The resident
company is the much-respected
Vlaamse Opera (Flemish Opera), The grand, Neo-Classical façade of the Museum voor Schone Kunsten
which formed when the opera
companies of Ghent and enclose a small park and E Stedelijk Museum voor
Antwerp merged. Baroque church, creating a Actuele Kunst (SMAK)
tranquil refuge. This Begijnhof Jan Hoetplein 1. Map E5. Tel (09) 240
was founded as a community 7601. Open 10am–6pm, Tue–Sun.
of single women in about 1235. Closed Mon. & = 0 ∑ smak.be
It has been occupied ever SMAK is one of Europe’s most
since, but the residents today dynamic modern art galleries, a
are no longer béguines. force in the art world that has
helped to bring the spotlight to
E STAM the Belgian art scene. Its exten-
Bijlokesite, Godshuizenlaan 2. sive and challenging permanent
Map E4. Tel (09) 267 1400. Open collection includes work by
9am–5pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri; artists such as Bacon, Beuys,
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Wed, Broodthaers, Long, Muñoz,
1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. 7 & Nauman, Panamarenko, Tuymans
0∑stamgent.be
and Warhol, while temporary
The stunning interior of the Vlaamse Located on a site that brings exhibitions feature international
Opera building together a 14th-century artists at the cutting edge of con-
Gothic abbey, a 17th-century temporary art. The airy and attrac-
P Klein Begijnhof monastery and the latest in tive building dates from 1949 but
Lange Violettestraat 205. 21st-century architecture, was remodelled in the 1990s.
Open 6:30am–10pm daily. STAM is Ghent’s excellent
The Klein Begijnhof (Small city museum. It provides an E Museum voor
Béguinage) is the prettiest of introduction to the city’s history Schone Kunsten
Ghent’s three béguinages and cultural heritage, tracing its Fernand Scribedreef, Citadelpark. Map
(see p57). Rows of step-gabled, evolution to the present day. F5. Tel (09) 240 0700. Open 10am–6pm
whitewashed houses – most Don’t miss the towers of Ghent Tue–Sun. & ∑ mskgent.be
dating from the 17th century – built with LEGO. Ghent’s largest collection of
fine art is displayed in this
Neo-Classical building. Inside,
a rotunda divides the works,
with the older exhibits in a
series of rooms on the right
and 19th- and 20th-century art
to the left. Medieval paintings
include the Bearing of the Cross
by Hieronymus Bosch (1450–
1516). There are also works by
Rubens (see p21), Anthony van
Dyck (1599–1641) and Jacob
Jordaens (1593–1678).
Visitors planning to also visit
the Royal Museum of Fine Arts
in Antwerp and the Groeninge
Museum in Bruges should
invest in the Flemish Art
A small garden surrounded by step-gabled houses in the Klein Begijnhof Collection combiticket.
116 BEYOND BRUSSELS
3 Antwerp
Antwerp is Belgium’s second city and the largest city in
Flanders, and it has one of Europe’s busiest ports (its docks
situated well to the north of the centre). Beginning as a
settlement on the banks of the River Scheldt in the 2nd
century, Antwerp became part of the Duchy of Brabant in
1106, and its main port. Within 200 years it was a thriving
hub of the European cloth industry. But its golden age
came during the era of Spanish rule (see p35), when it was
illuminated by the artistic genius of its most famous son,
Pieter Paul Rubens (1577–1640). Today, mirroring this Carvings above the cathedral door
vigorous mercantile and cultural past, Antwerp has undergone depicting the Last Judgement
a spirited regeneration, seen in its widespread programme
Red Star MAS
of rebuilding and renovation, and in its reputation as a key Line Museum FA L C O N R
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pp98–9
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Getting Around T T
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TE R
AT
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Antwerp is by using the public
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transport system. The excellent TR
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AA
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bus and tram network is focused
VL
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FotoMuseum ES Koninklijk Museum
I
LE
TR
on Centraal Station, where most . voor Schone
Kunsten
visitors arrive. Fast and frequent SE
IT
BR
trams and buses travel from here
to the centre. Most of the city’s
main sights are within walking
distance of the Grote Markt.
P Grote Markt
Grote Markt. Tel (03) 232 0103
(tourist office). 7
Antwerp’s central square, or
Grote Markt, is flanked by the
ornately gabled Stadhuis (town
hall), which was completed in
1564 by the architect and
sculptor Cornelis Floris. The
square’s north side has a series
of guildhouses, each of which is
decorated with gilded figures.
The tallest of these is the House Fresco paintings of the Dukes of Brabant in the Stadhuis, Grote Markt
ANTWERP 117
.
RA
P R I NSST R. P
.VA
the Descent from present day. The museum also
AT
NH
OB
OK
Vleeshouwersstraat 38–40. Tel (03)
R. EN
STR
. the Cross (1612). 292 6100. Open 10am–5pm Thu–Sun, features a cultural events space,
rk Sint Easter Mon. Closed Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, 1
Jacobskerk and it will display highlights from
ST JA
CO BS M
AR
May, Ascension, 1 & 2 Nov, 25 & 26 Dec. the Koninklijk Museum voor
KT
NIEUW
E S T R A AT
FRANKLIN
ROOSEVELT
& Schone Kunsten while it is closed
GEM
R.
De Vlaamse R.
Bus Station CA
Opera RN
MEIR
LE Y S S T R
.
Vleeshuis (Meat Hall)
S TA
TIES
KONINGIN
OTS
TRA
AT
T R .ASTRIDPLEIN
Opera
DE
KEY
SER
on this site since
Rubenshuis L
A PP E R
EI
1250, but the
AT
TRA
A P P L E M A N S S T R A AT
V
OM
E Diamant
HOPLAND Centraal existing hall
INS
ST
ME
Station
MEIST R A AT
IN
was completed in
ELL
GA
I
GS
LE
TR
QU
P E L I K A A N S T R A AT
NC
1504 to a design
AA
K
Zoo
KST
IJ
by architect
R
R.
K
N
T
TRA
A
Herman de
A
EGS
FR
P LO
QU
Waghemakere. The
EI
INT
SL
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NG
EN
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MA
Stadspark LIER
TSI
MECHELEN
BRUSSELS
VA N
EYC Antwerp Airport brick – giving the building a Imposing exterior of Antwerp’s
KLE 6 km (3.5 miles)
I streaky bacon-like appearance. Sint Pauluskerk
The fine Gothic interior has
Sights at a Glance been renovated to create a R Sint-Pauluskerk
1 Grote Markt museum called “Sounds of the St-Paulusstraat 22 or Veemarkt 14.
2 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal City”, presenting 600 years of Tel (03) 232 3267. Open Apr–Oct:
3 Antwerp Canals Antwerp’s musical life. 2–5pm daily. 8 3pm Sun & pub hols.
4 Vleeshuis Completed in the early 17th
E Museum Aan De Stroom century, this splendid church is
5 Museum Aan De Stroom
6 Sint-Pauluskerk
(MAS) distinguished by its combination
Hanzestedenplaats. Tel (03) 338 4400. of both Gothic and Baroque
7 ModeMuseum (MoMu)
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am– features. The exterior dates from
8 Museum Plantin-Moretus
6pm Sat & Sun (10am–5pm in winter). about 1571, and has an added
9 Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension, 1 elaborate Baroque gateway. The
0 Rockoxhuis Nov, 25 Dec. & 7 8 ∑ mas.be interior is noted for its intricately
q Sint Jacobskerk
Located in the old docks area carved wooden choir stalls. St
w Rubenshuis just north of the historical Paulus also possesses a series of
e Museum Mayer van den Bergh centre is Antwerp’s most inno- paintings illustrating the Fifteen
r Koninklijk Museum voor vative project, the Museum Aan Mysteries of the Rosary, one of
Schone Kunsten De Stroom (MAS), meaning which, The Scourging of the Pillar,
t MHKA Museum on the River. This is an exquisite canvas by Rubens.
y FotoMuseum museum combines the best of There are also paintings by van
u Red Star Line Museum the collections from the former Dyck and Jordaens.
For keys to symbols see back flap
118 BEYOND BRUSSELS
I
A
Grote Markt, whose surrounding streets house
A
K
museums, shops, and exuberant cafés and bars.
S
N
E
A
D
R
O
J
U
K
IP
ER
SSTR AAT
Stadhuis
Flanking Antwerp’s spectacular central square is the
elegant 16th-century Stadhuis (town hall), designed
by Cornelis Floris (1514–75).
Sint-Pauluskerk
This imposing church was built in
1571, but has a magnificent
Baroque gate and spire
dating from the late
17th century. Inside,
there is a noted
collection of
paintings,
including one
especially fine
work by Rubens.
To Centraal Station
Z
IR
K . Grote Markt
S
T
R
Antwerp’s golden
A age of trade in the
A
T 16th century is
reflected in the
square’s cosmopolitan
V
E
over Europe.
S
T
R
A
A
T
. Onze-Lieve-Vrouwe Kathedraal
The largest Gothic cathedral in Belgium,
this building occupies a 1-ha (2.5-acre)-
site in Antwerp’s centre. Work began on
this elegant church in 1352 and took
almost two centuries to complete.
To Rubenshuis
Groenplaats
The Groenplaats or Green Square
is a pleasant open space with
trees. Lined with cafés, bars and
restaurants, the square is a popular
spot with both locals and visitors
for a peaceful stroll or meal.
120 BEYOND BRUSSELS
Exploring Antwerp
Antwerp stretches out from its centre into its sprawling suburbs
to a distance of some 7 km (4.3 miles). Badly damaged in
both World Wars, the city has a broad mixture of architecture,
ranging from the medieval to the ultra-modern. The old
city centre is concentrated around the cathedral, Onze Lieve
Vrouwe Kathedraal, and the Grote Markt (see pp98–9).
The area around the Centraal Station is the centre of the
international diamond trade. The docks of the Zuid (South)
district have been drained, transforming into one of the most
vibrant parts of town, and the old dockland architecture of
the Waalse Kaai and Vlaamse Kaai has become home to clubs, Printing press in the Museum
bars and museums. Rapid development is also taking place Plantin-Moretus/Prentenkabinet
around the old, water-filled docks to the north of the city
centre. To the east of the cathedral – beyond Antwerp’s moved here in 1576. The
house’s ancient rooms and
pioneering 1930s skyscraper, the Boerentoren –
narrow corridors resemble the
lies the Meir, Antwerp’s premier shopping street. types of interiors painted by
Flemish and Dutch masters.
Six in the 1980s, the city has The museum is devoted to
entered the stratosphere of the early years of printing,
international haute-couture, when Plantin and others began
and maintains a glowing to produce books that bore
reputation for nurturing new no resemblance to earlier,
talent. This fashion museum illuminated manuscripts.
provides the historical context Antwerp was a centre for
to Antwerp’s rise. Fashion items printing in the 15th and 16th
and accessories are shown in centuries, and Plantin was its
innovative ways in changing most successful printer. Today,
exhibitions, to serve as both his workshop displays several
an instructive resource and a historic printing presses, as
fount of inspiration. well as woodcuts and copper
plates. Plantin’s library is also
E Museum Plantin-Moretus/ on show. One of the gems
One of the changing exhibits at the Pretenkabinet here is an edition of the
ModeMuseum Vrijdagmarkt 22–23. Tel (03) 221 1450. Gutenberg Bible – the first
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun, Easter Mon. book to be printed using
E ModeMuseum (MoMu) Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension, 1 Nov, moveable type, a new tech-
Nationalestraat 28. Tel (03) 470 27 70. 25 Dec. & free last Wed of month. nique invented by Johannes
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; ∑ museumplantinmoretus.be Gutenberg in 1455.
10am–9pm first Sun of every month. This fascinating museum on
Closed Mon. & ∑momu.be the UNESCO World Heritage List R Sint-Carolus
Following the rise to celebrity occupies a large 16th-century Borromeuskerk
of the influential fashion house that belonged to the Hendrik Conscienceplein. Tel (03) 231
designers called the Antwerp printer Christopher Plantin, who 3751. Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–5pm
Mon–Sat.
This Jesuit church is celebrated
for its elegant Baroque façade,
which forms one flank of
a charming 17th-century
square. Rubens played a part
in the design of both the
exterior and interior when the
church was built in 1615–21,
and supplied 39 ceiling
paintings, but sadly these
were lost in a fire in 1718. The
surviving parts of the interior
indicate how lavish it once was
– a triumphant showpiece of
The Baroque interior of Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk the Counter-Reformation.
ANTWERP 121
P Rockoxhuis P Rubenshuis
Keizerstraat 12. Tel (03) 201 9250. See pp124–5.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed
Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, Ascension, 1 & 2 Nov, E Museum Mayer van
25 & 26 Dec. & ∑ rockoxhuis.be den Bergh
Nicolaas Rockox (1560–1640) Lange Gasthuisstraat 19. Tel (03) 338
was mayor of Antwerp, a 8188. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun,
humanist, philanthropist, and Easter Mon. Closed Mon, 1 & 2 Jan, 1
a friend and patron of Rubens. May, Ascension, 1 Nov, 24 & 25 Dec.
These attributes are reflected in & ∑ museummayervan
his beautifully renovated home denbergh.be
– a series of rooms set around a Fritz Mayer van den Bergh
formal courtyard garden. They (1858–1901) was the scion of A room at the Museum Mayer van den Bergh
contain a fine collection of a wealthy trading family, but
contemporary furniture and instead of following in his huge, sculptural building that
miscellaneous artifacts, all father’s footsteps, he chose was once a 1920s dockside
interesting and well to devote himself to grain silo and warehouse has
chosen. The paintings collecting art and curios. been transformed into a series
and drawings After his death aged just of unusual spaces to display
include work by 43, his mother created this art from the front line of
Rubens, Jordaens museum to display his international contemporary art
and Van Dyck, as well collections. Among (1970–present). This includes
as work by Frans the many treasures work by many of the artists who
Snyders (1579–1657), are tapestries, have helped to place Belgium at
who lived next door, furniture, ivories, the forefront of the art scene,
was much admired stained glass, medie such as Panamarenko, Luc
by Rubens, and Detail from Fishmarket val and Renaissance Tuymans, Jan Fabre and
painted flowers and Antwerp, by Frans sculpture and a Wim Delvoye.
fruit in Rubens’ work. Snyders, at the Rockoxhuis number of excellent
paintings, including E FotoMuseum
R Sint Jacobskerk Dulle Griet (Mad Meg), a power Waalsekaai 47. Tel (03) 242 9300.
Lange Nieuwstraat 73–75, Eikenstraat. ful image of a chaotic world by Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Tel (03) 225 0414. Open Apr–Oct: Pieter Brueghel the Elder. Closed Mon, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan.
2–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–noon, & =∑fotomuseum.be
Mon–Sat. & E Koninklijk Museum voor Antwerp’s excellent museum
Noted as Rubens’ burial place – Schone Kunsten of photography, displaying a
his tomb is in his family’s chapel See pp122–3. wide range of historical artifacts
behind the high altar – this sand and images, has undergone a
stone church was built from E Museum van complete makeover, and has
1491 to 1656. Sint Jacobskerk’s Hedendaagse Kunst embraced the moving image
rich interior contains the Antwerpen (M HKA) as well by incorporating the
tombs of several other notable Leuvenstraat 32. Tel (03) 260 9999. Antwerp Film Museum (which
Antwerp families, as well as Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm offers scheduled film viewings).
a collection of 17thcentury Thu). Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, In addition to its extensive,
art, including sculptures by Ascension & 25 Dec. 0 = thematically organized
Hendrik Verbruggen, and ∑ muhka.be permanent collection, the
paintings by van Dyck, Otto This museum is what you might museum mounts regular
Venius (Rubens’ first master) expect from a city famed for its exhibitions of photography.
and Jacob Jordaens. sense of style and design. A
E Red Star Line Museum
Montevideostraat 3. Tel (03) 298
2770. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension
Day, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. 7 &
∑ redstarline.be
Located in the old Red Star
Line terminal in the port area
of the city, this fascinating
museum tells the story of
Antwerp’s historic shipping
company, and the over two
million people it took to a new
life in North America from the
A stained-glass window in Sint Jacobskerk late 19th century up to 1934.
122 BEYOND BRUSSELS
Façade of Gallery
Building began on this
imposing structure in
Main entrance
1884. The Neo-Classical
façade with its vast
pillars has carved
women charioteers
atop each side. It was
opened in 1890.
Transport
@ 1, 23, 290. v 4, 8, 12, 24.
Gallery Guide
The gallery is divided into two
floors. Flemish Old Masters and
19th-century painters are
housed on the first floor, while
the ground floor focuses on
James Ensor and the 20th
century. Each room is lettered
and visitors may view exhibits
chronologically, starting in the
entrance hall.
Ground floor
As the Old Sang, the Young
Play Pipes (1638)
Jacob Jordaens’ (1593–1678)
Key joyous celebration of life in this
15th-century paintings 19th-century salon painting of a family enjoying a
musical evening contrasts with
16th-century paintings 20th-century paintings
his religious paintings.
16th–18th-century sketches Temporary exhibitions
19th-century paintings
124 BEYOND BRUSSELS
Rubenshuis
Rubenshuis, on Wapper Square, was Pieter Paul Rubens’
home and studio for the last 29 years of his life, from 1611
to 1640. The city bought the premises just before World
War II, but by then the house was little more than a ruin,
and what can be seen today is the result of careful
restoration. It is divided into two sections. To the left of
the entrance are the narrow rooms of the artist’s living
quarters, equipped with period furniture. Behind this
part of the house is the kunstkamer, or art gallery, where Façade of Rubenshuis
Rubens exhibited both his own and other artists’ work, The older Flemish part of the house
sits next to the later house, whose
and entertained his friends and wealthy patrons, such as elegant early Baroque façade was
the Archduke Albert and the Infanta Isabella. To the right designed by Rubens.
of the entrance lies the main studio, a spacious salon
where Rubens worked on and displayed his paintings.
A signposted route guides visitors through the house.
Formal Gardens
The small garden is laid out formally and
its charming pavilion dates from Rubens’
time. He was influenced by architects of
the Italian Renaissance when he built
the Italian Baroque addition to his house
in the 1620s.
KEY
Bedroom
The Rubens family lived in the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Flemish section of the house,
Practical Information
with its small rooms and narrow
Wapper 9–11.
passages. The portrait by the bed
Map L2. Tel (03) 201 1555.
is said to be of Rubens’ second
Open 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun,
wife, Helena Fourment.
Easter Mon, Whit Mon.
Closed 1 & 2 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov,
25 & 26 Dec, Ascension Day.
& (free last Wed of month).
Transport
@ 22, 25, 26. v 7, 8, 9, 11, 12.
Dining Room
Intricately fashioned leather
panels line the walls of this room,
which also displays a noted work
by Frans Snyders.
. Kunstkamer
This art gallery contains a series
of painted sketches by Rubens.
At the far end is a semi-circular
dome, modelled on Rome’s
Pantheon, displaying a number
of marble busts.
Baroque Portico
One of the few remaining original
features, this portico was designed
by Rubens, and links the older
house with the Baroque section. It
is adorned with a frieze showing
scenes from Greek mythology.
126 BEYOND BRUSSELS
L . K O E P O O RT S T R .
AI
visiting in its own right. It looks the Rubenshuis
KA
K EI ZE
R ST R
AE
A AT
named after the hugely popular 5) 8,
RD
w
Queen Astrid (wife of Leopold III o
JO
GROTE
and grandmother of the present HAA
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AI
RA
AT
King Philippe I) who died
KA
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t
ld
CK
MA
DIJ
S T KATE LI J N E VEST
RK LANG
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AN
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KOORN-
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A
oldest in the world, and its OFS
TR.
a
PLAATS
RK
impressive entrance dates from
1843, the year the zoo opened. T
STE
s 0
Meir
MEIR
On the far side of the square is EN
HO
VRIJDAG
MARKT
R.
HUIDEVETTERSS TR.
ER
ST
UW
K.G
EV
ER SV
the Radisson Blu
G
E S T LO M
IE
O
BAR
W
D EN
AST
AU VES
Astrid Hotel 3, a T
KAM
GU
ST
HU
IJN
bold example of EN
ME
ST JODENSTRAAT
ISS
RA
NST
AT
post-modern
TRA
RA
KOMEDIE
AT
PLEIN
flavour of Antwerp’s mansion that
connection with Rubens bought to the Meir, look left – the tallest
diamonds, go to the as his home and building is the KBC Tower 0.
diamond district. 3 Zebras at the studio in 1610. Complete with Art Deco
You can get a feel for Antwerp Zoo At the end of the detailing, it was Europe’s highest
this distinctively Wapper, at Hopland skyscraper when topped out in
Jewish neighbourhood 2, is the Grand Café Horta 9, 1931. By walking up Lange
by walking down Pelikaanstraat a dynamic café-restaurant Klarenstraat, you can reach the
4 and Vestingstraat 5. By built in 2000 around structural Sint Jacobskerk (see p121) q on
continuing along De Keyserlei remnants salvaged from Victor Lange Nieuwstraat. This richly
and Leysstraat, you enter the Meir Horta’s classic Art Nouveau decorated church is famous
6, a broad, pedestrianized high building, the Maison du Peuple, as the burial place of Rubens.
street packed with large shops. in Brussels (see p82). Returning St-Jacobsstraat and Keizerstraat
lead to the Rockoxhuis (see
p121) w, which offers an insight
into how the homes of the rich
looked in the time of Rubens.
Wijngaardstraat will bring
you to the little square called
Hendrik Conscienceplein e,
named after the Flemish author
who wrote the novel The Lion
of Flanders (1838), a stirring tale
about the Battle of the Golden
Spurs of 1302; the book was a
landmark in the resurgence of
w One of the rooms inside the Rockoxhuis Flemish national pride.
ANTWERP 127
EN A
T RO O S EVE LT ENT
EST
.2
A
P L A ATS R
KLAR
R
SS
T
at Reyndersstraat 18, is an old
EIK EN ST
.
SSTR
Z U Astrid
E
JE
and celebrated tavern with a
LANG
LEYSST
SEN
MEIR 6 R A AT
Opera courtyard. On Vrijdagmarkt
EES
S TA KONINGIN
T IE S ASTRIDPLEIN
TRA
ANN
DE K
3 the Museum Plantin-Moretus
KLE
WAPP ER
8 EYS
ERLE
I
(see p120) s, a museum of
RIJ
AT
VE
ST
TRA
IN
early printing, set in the 16th-
NK
A P P EL MA NS S T R A AT
G
1
IN S
HOPLAND Diamant
5 century house of the printer
ST
FRA
ELL
RA
9
AT
QU
4
Station called Plantin. From here, walk
Key down Steenhouwersvest to the
Walk route ZOO square called St-Jansvliet, with
the River Scheldt beyond. For
the most part, Antwerp turns
its back on its wide and
windy river, but not the café-
Tips for Walkers restaurant Zuiderterras d –
0 metres 200
Starting point: Centraal Station an award-winning modern
Length: 3.2 km (2 miles) 0 yards 200 building with fine views across
Getting there: Centraal Station is the water.
served by bus and tram routes There is a well in the square
from all over the city. decorated with metalwork
Stopping-off points: There are foliage and a figure; this is
plenty of welcoming refreshment said to have been forged by
stops along the way. For a touch
the painter Quentin Metsys
of class, try the Grand Café Horta
in around 1495. The figure
(No. 9 on this walk). The walk
also passes other noted watering
depicts the Roman soldier
holes, such as Het Vermoeide Silvius Brabo, throwing
Model (No. 16), Het Elfde Gebod the hand of the evil giant
(No. 17), De Vagant (No. 20), Antigonius into the River
and De Groote Witte Arend Scheldt – the folkloric origin
(No. 21). Or save yourself for the of the name Antwerp
spectacular Zuiderterras (No. 23) (handwerpen means “hand-
overlooking the River Scheldt. throw”). Now go to the Boats moored on the busy dockside of the
Grote Markt (see p116) o, River Scheldt
For keys to symbols see back flap
128 BEYOND BRUSSELS
+ Gaasbeek
Kasteelstraat 40. Tel (02) 531 0130.
Open Easter–Nov 2: 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun. Closed Nov 3–Easter. (Park open
all year.)
8 Halle
* 36,800. £ @ n Stadhuis, Grote
Markt, (02) 356 4259. ∑ toerisme-
halle.be
Wood panelled walls and paintings in the hall at Gaasbeek Castle
Located on the outskirts
the confluence of the Scheldt attraction, the castle and of Brussels, in the province of
and Dender rivers, has attracted grounds of Gaasbeek. The castle Brabant, Halle is a peaceful little
the attention of a string of was remodelled in the 19th town. It has been a major religi-
invaders over the centuries, century, but actually dates from ous centre since the 13th century
including the Germans, who the 13th century, and boasts a because of the cult of the Black
shelled Dendermonde in 1914. moat and a thick curtain wall, Virgin, an effigy in the Onze Lieve
But the town is perhaps best- strengthened by huge semi- Vrouwebasiliek, the town’s main
known as the site of the Steed circular towers. The castle’s interior church. The holy statue’s
Bayard, a carnival held every ten holds an excellent collection of blackness is due to its stained
years at the end of August. fine and applied arts. Among colour, which is said to have
Today, the town’s spacious the treasures are rich tapestries, occurred through contact with
main square is framed by the 15th-century alabaster reliefs gunpowder during the religious
quaint turrets and towers of from England, silverware and a wars of the 17th century.
the Vleeshuis or Meat Hall. delightful ivory and copper The virgin has long been one
The Town Hall is an elegant hunting horn which belonged of Belgium’s most venerated
14th-century building which to the Protestant martyr Count icons and each year, on Whit
was extensively restored in Egmont in the 16th century. The Sunday, the statue is paraded
1920. Dendermonde also Pajottenland is also known for its through the town.
possesses two exquisite early
religious paintings by Anthony
van Dyck which are on display
in the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady).
7 Pajottenland
* 113,000. n Grote Markt 1, Halle,
(02) 356 4259. ∑ toerisme-
pajottenland.be
9 Leuven
Within easy striking distance of Brussels, the historic Flemish
town of Leuven traces its origins to a fortified camp con
structed here by Julius Caesar. In medieval times, the town
became an important centre of the cloth trade, but it was as
a seat of learning that it achieved international prominence.
In 1425, Pope Martin V and Count John of Brabant founded
Leuven’s university, and by the mid1500s it was one of
Europe’s most prestigious academic institutions, the home
of such famous scholars as Erasmus and Mercator. Even today,
the university exercises a dominant influence over the town,
and its students give Leuven a vibrant atmosphere. The bars
and cafés flanking the Oude Markt, a large square in the
centre of town, are especially popular. Adjoining the square
is the medieval Grote Markt, and near the centre is the Stella Huge buttresses supporting the tower
of St Pieterskerk
Artois Brewery, part of the world’s largest brewery group.
R St Pieterskerk and Museum
façade. A line of narrow win- Schatkamer van St Pieter
dows rise up over three floors Grote Markt. Tel (016) 29 5133.
beneath a steeply pitched roof Open 10am–4:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu–
adorned with dormer windows Sat; 11am–4:30pm Sun. Closed Wed,
and pencil-thin turrets. It is, 15 Aug, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan. & to
however, in the fine quality of museum.
its stonework that the building Across the square from the
excels, with delicately carved Stadhuis rises St Pieterskerk,
tracery and detailed medieval a massive church built over a
figures beneath 300 niche period of 200 years from the
bases. There are grotesques of 1420s. Inside the church, the
every description as well as sweeping lines of the nave are
representations of folktales and intercepted by an impressive
biblical stories, all carved in 1499 rood screen and a Baroque
exuberant late-Gothic style. wooden pulpit. The church also
Within the niche alcoves is a houses the Museum Schatkamer
Lively café society in the Oude Markt series of 19th-century statues van St Pieter (Treasury), which
depicting local dignitaries and has three paintings by Dirk
P Oude Markt politicians. Guided tours of Bouts (1415–75). Born in the
This handsome, cobble-stoned the interior are available, and Netherlands, Bouts spent most
square is flanked by a tasteful include three lavishly decorated of his working life in Leuven,
ensemble of high-gabled brick reception rooms. becoming its official artist.
buildings. Some of these date
from the 18th century; others E Stella Artois Brewery
are comparatively new. At Vuurkruisenlaan. Open Sat & Sun. &
ground level, these buildings 8 obligatory. A 90-minute tour with
house the largest concentration beer tasting in Dutch at 1pm and in
of bars and cafés in town, and as English at 3pm on Sat & Sun, with an
such attract the town’s univer- additional tour in English at 11am in
sity students in their droves. Jul & Aug.
With brewing being an important
P Stadhuis part of Leuven’s history since the
Grote Markt. Tel (016) 20 3020. 16th century, a visit to Belgium’s
Open daily. & 8 obligatory, beer capital would not be
3pm daily. complete without a brewery tour.
Built between 1439 and 1463 The Stella Artois Brewery offers
from the profits of the cloth a variety of tours on weekends
trade, Leuven’s town hall, the from May to October. All tours
Stadhuis, was designed to take place in the brewing hall,
demonstrate the wealth of the covering local beer-making
city’s merchants. This distinctive, history and the secrets of the
tall building is renowned for its Stone carvings of medieval figures decorate brewing process, with the option
lavishly carved and decorated the Stadhuis façade to finish with a beer in the bar.
LEUVEN 131
Stella Artois
AL K Brewery Train Station
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132 BEYOND BRUSSELS
4 Butte du Lion
RO
R Eglise St-Joseph RO
Braine UT
Chaussée de Bruxelles. l'Alleud ED
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Tel (02) 352 0910.
E LL
Braine
NI V
CHAUSSE
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Major road
AU EL
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Minor road
EE
0 kilometres 1
voluntary contributions from Railway
0 miles 1
ordinary soldiers in honour of Charleroi
their officers.
For keys to symbols see back flap
BEYOND BRUSSELS 133
P Butte du Lion
315 Route du Lion, Ring Ouest exit 25,
5 km (3 miles) S of Waterloo. Tel (02)
385 1912. Open daily. &
Dating from 1826, the Butte
du Lion is a 45-m- (148-ft-)
high earthen mound built on
the spot where the future King
of the Netherlands, the Prince
of Orange, was wounded
during the battle. Steps lead
to the top, which is guarded
by a huge cast-iron lion, and
from here, there is a great
view over the battlefield. A
plan of the battle is displayed The summer drawing room in the 18th-century Château d’Attre, near Ath
at the top and for a small
charge, added to the ticket for q Ath w Ypres
the Mémorial 1815, you can * 28,500. £ @ n Rue de * 35,000. £ @ n 34 Market
rent a virtual reality headset Pintamont 18, (068) 26 5170. Square, (057) 23 9220.
that allows you to “see” how the
troops were deployed across This quiet town is known for its During World War I, Ypres, or
the landscape. festival – the Ducasse – which Ieper in Flemish (and familiar
occurs every year on the fourth to British soldiers as “Wipers”),
P Panorama de la Bataille weekend in August. It features was used as a supply depot for
252–254 Route du Lion, Braine- the “Parade of the Giants”, a the British army. The Germans
L’Alleud. N5, 5 km (3 miles) S of procession of gaily decorated shelled Ypres to pieces, but
Waterloo. Tel (02) 385 1912. giant figures representing after the war, the town was
Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm; characters from local folklore rebuilt to its earlier design,
Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm. & and the Bible. complete with a replica of its
This is perhaps the most A few kilometres northeast 13th-century Lakenhalle
fascinating of the several is one of the most popular (cloth hall). Part of its interior
attractions beneath the Butte attractions in the region, the has been turned into the “In
du Lion. This circular painting Château d’Attre. This handsome Flanders Fields” Museum, a
of the battle by artist Louis 18th-century palace was built thoughtfully laid-out series
Demoulin was erected in 1912. in 1752 by the Count of of displays that attempts to
It is 110 m (360 ft) long and Gomegnies, chamberlain to the conjure the full horrors of
stretches right round a circular, Hapsburg Emperor Joseph II. World War I.
purpose-built gallery. This is There is also the Menin Gate
one of the few late 19th-century + Château d’Attre memorial, inscribed with the
panoramic, circular paintings Attre. Tel (068) 45 4460. £ to Attre. names of over 50,000 British and
that remain intact. Open Jul–Aug: 1–5pm Sat & Sun; Commonwealth troops who
Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: 2–5pm Sun. died in the area but have no
E Napoleon’s Last Closed Nov–Mar. known resting place.
Headquarters
66 Chaussée de Bruxelles, Vieux-
Genappe, N5, 7 km (4.5 miles) S of A Legacy of Conflict
Waterloo. Tel (02) 384 2424. Ypres and the area around it was the scene of some of the bloodiest
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & battles of World War I, including Passchendaele, in which more than
Napoleon spent the eve of 500,000 men died. There are numerous guided tours of the battlefields
the battle in a farmhouse, Le on offer, but many visitors choose to go on a self-driven tour (see overleaf).
Caillou. That farmhouse has Ypres makes a good overnight base for those planning to devote two
been transformed into a days to the sites, monuments and vast cemeteries on the route.
museum, often referred to as
the Caillou Museum. Among
the items on display are a
number of artifacts from
Napoleon’s army, a bronze
death mask of the Emperor and
his army-issue bed.
In the garden is an ossuary,
which contains bones of some
of the soldiers who died during The battlefield at Passchendaele Ridge in 1917
the battle.
134 BEYOND BRUSSELS
er
Ijz
line, where the gruelling stalemate of trench warfare cost more
Blankaart
than 500,000 lives. Today, the area around the Salient is a
beguilingly pretty landscape dotted with monuments, Natuurreservaat
de Blankaart
museums and numerous cemeteries.
Merkem
1 Diksmuide and
Dodengang
The Belgians dug in
along the canal of
Diksmuide. Some of
their trenches have
been preserved at Bikschote
Dodengang.
Dikkebus
Dikkebusse
Vijver Voormezele
5 Canadian Forces
Memorial At St-Juliaan,
the large bust of The HEUVELLAND
Brooding Soldier
commemorates the
2,000 soldiers who died
Kemmel
after the first ever gas
attack in 1915.
6 Tyne Cot Cemetery The largest
Commonwealth cemetery in the world
contains nearly 12,000 graves. The walls Wulvergem
bear the names of 35,000 missing soldiers. Mesen
BEYOND BRUSSELS 135
7 Memorial Museum
Passchendale Tips for Drivers
This 19th-century Starting point: Diksmuide.
mansion, located in
Length: 60 km (37 miles).
Zonnebeke, contains
Duration of drive: A thorough
numerous World War I
tour will require two days. It can
artifacts, and includes
be done in one day, but visitors
impressively recon-
may need to be selective.
structed dugouts
Driving conditions: The roads
and trenches.
are good and usually fairly quiet.
Signposting can be random.
Where to stay and eat: The main
8 Menin Gate centre is Ypres, but there are
Each evening in Ypres, restaurants and accommodation
the Last Post, played by all along the route, especially in
buglers at the Menin Gate, the smaller centres such as
echoes beneath the huge Diksmuide, Zonnebeke, Zillebeke,
arch which lists the Kemmel and Mesen.
names of 55,000 missing
Commonwealth soldiers.
9 Hill 62, Sanctuary Wood
Museum A private collection of
0 kilometres 2 military jumble leads to a wood
0 miles 2 where original trenches have
been preserved.
Langemark
Poelkapelle
much disputed Hill 60 faced
E
NG
E ZI
BO devastating attacks from
underground mines.
ZO
NN
EB
EK
ST
RA
AT
Zonnebeke
q Pool of Peace
Underground mining and a huge explosion
beneath German lines in 1917 resulted in the
water-filled Lone Tree Crater, which has now
Zillebeekse been designated the Pool of Peace.
Vijver
Zillebeke
A AT
S TR
RT
AA
e Irish Peace Tower
V
WHERE TO STAY
For most of the year, Brussels is primarily represented in the city, with equally keen
a business or political destination, and prices. Bruges is famous for its fabulously
accommodation is often priced accordingly. romantic accommodation, in top-of-the-
The wide range of top hotels has one range luxury hotels as well as its B&Bs,
fine advantage for the visitor – weekend but there are also plenty of competitive,
and summer deals make it possible to stay standard hotels for the more cost-conscious.
in some of Europe’s most luxurious Antwerp and Ghent are also both rewarding
establishments on even a modest budget. places to stay overnight, and have a good
The mid-range of hotels is also well range of hotels to choose from.
Where to Look Most hotels serve a good, person per night, but can be as
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and continental-style buffet breakfast much as €9.50 per night in a
Antwerp are all good for (with patisserie, cereals, sliced five-star hotel. There may be an
walking in – so if you are visiting charcuterie and cheeses) and additional charge for parking,
these cities to see the sights, some offer English-breakfast- up to about €25 a night. While
find somewhere near the style cooked food. Breakfast can some hotels are happy to allow
centre. If arriving by train, the cost anything between €10 and pets (do check in advance),
stations deposit you fairly near €35 per person, so if you intend they are likely to add a small
the centre of all the cities, with to have breakfast in the hotel, nightly charge to the bill.
the exception of Ghent. In check in advance if it is included
Brussels there is something of in the room price.
a geographical divide between It is usual to be charged extra Hotel Gradings
the historic city centre around if you place additional guests in and Facilities
the Grand Place and the a double room, sometimes even Hotels are graded on a star
European Quarter, which has its if they are children, so be sure to system (1–5 stars) overseen by
own cluster of hotels, but there ask when you book. Youth the regional governments of
are many hotels in between, hostels cater very well to the Belgium. Stars are awarded
and the distances are never budget or student traveller and according to the features,
very great. some also have family rooms. facilities and services provided
by the hotel, but they are not
necessarily an indicator of the
Room Rates Taxes and Charges quality of the experience of
In Brussels, hotels at the top Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and staying there. Four-star hotels
end of the market offer Bruges post City Taxes on rooms may tick all the boxes (the
exceptional standards of at varying local rates, based on rooms will all have a desk,
comfort and convenience to rather complex calculations. The minibar, safe etc), but the three-
their largely corporate clients, City Tax element in the price star hotel next door may be far
and their prices tend to reflect should be given to you in more agreeable.
this. In general, room rates are advance, and is not usually Almost all hotels and B&Bs in
higher than in the rest of included in the room price. It these cities now offer free Wi-Fi
Belgium, but on a par with comes to about €2.50 per access; many of them (especially
other European capitals. For a
night in a luxury hotel, expect
to pay between €250 and €400
for a double room.
The average price for a
room in the city is around
€130 per night, tracking the
accommodation allowance
for EU officials, but prices
may rocket upwards during
special events, such as during
the Seafood Expo Global
in late April. In Brussels, look
out for bargain weekend and
off-season rates. Bruges is
generally more expensive at
weekends, but many of the
high-quality B&Bs hold the
same price year-round. Unique frescoes decorate each room at Bloom (see p141)
Restaurants along the Rue des Bouchers, near the Grand Place, Brussels
W H E R E TO S TAY 139
Bed-and-Breakfasts
Bed-and-breakfasts, also called
chambres d’hôte in Brussels,
can provide a very pleasant
alternative to staying in a
Warm interiors of Le Plaza, Brussels (see p141) hotel, and rooms can often be
found even in the centre of
those catering for business remembering, however, that town. In Bruges, some luxurious
clients) have fitness facilities, many hotel buildings in these and utterly charming B&Bs in
some including saunas, and a cities are historic and cannot historic buildings are more akin
few have swimming pools. be adapted, but all hotels and to mini-boutique hotels.
Plenty of hotels have their own their staff will go out of their
bars, but relatively few have way to accommodate guests
their own restaurants: there is a with special requirements, if Recommended Hotels
wide choice of restaurants in all they can. The many hotels featured in
the cities, usually within walking this guide have been selected
distance of the hotels. across as wide a price range
As a business centre and one Youth Accommodation as possible for their excellent
of Europe’s major centres for the There are good youth hostels facilities, good location and
convention trade, many of the that are affiliated to Hostelling usually great value. From
larger hotels in Brussels have International in all the cities. historic, often centuries-old,
fully-equipped meeting and Note that there are also a buildings in the city centres
function rooms. The same also number of youth-hostel-style to those slightly outside the
applies to Antwerp, and to hotels offering rooms at very major tourist areas in lovely
Bruges and Ghent, albeit on a competitive prices. They include garden settings, these hotels
smaller scale. Sleep Well and the Train encompass all that is available.
Hostel in Brussels, and Charlie For our pick of the very best,
Rockets in Bruges. A bed in a look out for hotels labelled
How to Book four-person room should cost DK Choice. These establish-
The best way to see the range around €25, rising to around ments have been highlighted
of hotels on offer is to go to €45 for a single room. in recognition of an exceptional
the Internet booking websites feature – a stunning location,
(such as booking.com and notable history, inviting
hotels.com) and insert the Travelling with Children atmosphere or outstanding
dates that you require. These Children are welcome at almost value. Many of these are very
websites offer instant online all hotels in these cities, with popular, so reserve as early
bookings, often at rates far many making concerted efforts as possible.
below those quoted by the to cater for the needs of those
hotels themselves. This is not travelling with children. If family
always the case, however: rooms are not available, many
increasingly, hotels have been hotels will add single beds and
encouraging guests to book cots to double rooms. Always
through their websites by check with the hotel in advance
offering better prices or deals, to see what is offered, and if
such as including breakfast in extra charges might be incurred.
their price if you book direct.
Self-Catering Apartments
Travellers with There is no shortage of self-
Disabilities catering accommodation and
Hotels in Brussels and the rest “Apart Hotels” in all the cities,
of Belgium take the needs of many of them available for a
travellers with disabilities short stay as well as by the
seriously. Many have one or week or month. Prices start at
more fully adapted rooms for around €600 per week for a The opulent lobby at the Hilton Brussels
wheelchair users. It is worth fairly basic but furnished Grand Place (see p141)
140 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Druum € Price Guide
Brussels Historic Map 1 B2 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Rue du Houblon 63, 1000 high season for a standard double room,
Lower Town Tel (02) 503 63 00 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
9Hotel Central € ∑ druum.be € up to €150
Historic Map 2 E3 Steps from the fashion heartland €€ €150 to €250
€€€ over €250
Rue des Colonies 10, 1000 of Rue Antoine Dansaert, this
Tel (02) 504 9910 top-end B&B has six bright and
∑ le9hotel.com spacious designer rooms. Marivaux €
Historic, well-priced four-star Modern Map 2 D1
hotel near the Royal Palace. Floris Arlequin Grand’Place € Blvd Adolphe Max 98, 1000
Helpful, efficient service. Modern Map 2 D2 Tel (02) 227 0300
Rue de la Fourche 17–19, ∑ hotelmarivaux.be
Aris Grand Place € Greepstraat, 1000 The rooms of this comfortable,
Historic Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 514 1615 modern hotel are large and
Marché aux Herbes 78–80, 1000 ∑ florishotelarlequin.be pleasantly decorated. Stylish
Tel (02) 514 4300 A modern, three-star hotel in bar and brasserie.
∑ arishotel.be the heart of the historical centre.
Housed in a late 19th-century Good breakfasts. Novotel Brussels Centre
building, this hotel is superb Midi Station €
value given its location in the Grande Cloche € Modern Map 1 B5
heart of the town. Modern double- Historic Map 1 C4 Av Fonsny 5–7, 1060
glazing keeps noise levels low. Place Rouppe 10, 1000 Tel (02) 533 1090
Tel (02) 512 6140 ∑ novotel.com
Astrid Centre Hotel € ∑ hotelgrandecloche.com Modern hotel that offers a range
Modern Map 1 C1 Occupies a renovated 19th- of comfortable rooms. Guests
Place du Samedi 11, 1000 century town house. Ideal for can enjoy a buffet breakfast while
Tel (02) 219 3119 budget travellers. looking out onto the rear garden.
∑ astridcentrehotel.com
A comfortable and efficient Hotel La Madeleine € Queen Anne €
hotel. Rooms are large with Historic Map 2 D3 Value Map 2 D1
modern furnishings and Rue de la Montagne 20–22, 1000 Blvd Emile Jacqmain 110, 1000
facilities. Superb breakfast. Tel (02) 513 2973 Tel (02) 217 1600
∑ hotel-la-madeleine.be ∑ queen-anne.be
Bedford € Charming, pet-friendly, with room Welcoming Queen Anne is small
Family Map 1 C3 options to meet all budgets. and friendly, with nice rooms,
Rue du Midi 135–137, 1000 Some have shared bathrooms. 11 apartments and a generous
Tel (02) 507 0000 buffet breakfast.
∑ hotelbedford.be Hotel Van Belle €
This four-star hotel has spacious Modern Map 1 A3 Le Quinze €
and comfortable standard rooms, Chaussée de Mons 39, 1070 Value Map 2 D3
but also offers sumptuously Tel (02) 521 3516 Grand Place 15, 1000
decorated executive rooms and ∑ hotelvanbelle.be Tel (02) 511 0956
suites suitable for families. Offers rooms that are comfortable ∑ hotel-le-quinze-grand-place.be
and well furnished. The communal Rooms are basic but, some have
Congrès € lounge area has a large open fire. fantastic views of the Grand
Historic Map 2 F2 Place. Friendly and helpful staff,
Rue du Congres 42, 1000 Manhattan € free Wi-Fi, and breakfast can be
Tel (02) 217 1890 Modern Map 2 D1 served in the rooms.
∑ hotelducongrès.be Blvd Adolphe Max 132–140, 1000
This peaceful three-star hotel Tel (02) 219 1619 La Vieille Lanterne €
occupies four elegantly ∑ hotelmanhattan.be Value Map 1 C3
renovated 19th-century town Very well priced but pretty basic. Rue des Grands Carmes 29, 1000
houses. The staff are courteous The neat, comfortable rooms have Tel (02) 512 7494
and friendly. an old-fashioned feel to them. ∑ lavieillelanterne.be
Good-value hostel with six
rooms. All are brightly decorated,
and benefit from great views
onto Manneken Pis.
Atlas €€
Modern Map 1 C2
Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains
30, 1000
Tel (02) 502 6006
∑ atlas-hotel.be
Three-star hotel just to the north
of Grand Place. Offers basic but
pleasant rooms and usually has
Simple, contemporary room at Bloom, Lower Town some good weekend deals.
W H E R E TO S TAY 141
Chambres en Ville €
DK Choice Value Map 2 F2 Greater Brussels
Warwick Brussels €€€ Rue de Londres 19, 1050 Alliance Hotel Brussels Expo €
Luxury Map 2 D3 Tel (02) 512 9290 Business
Rue Duquesnoy 5, 1000 ∑ chambresenville.be Av Imperatrice Charlotte 6, 1020
Tel (02) 505 5555 Wonderfully chic guesthouse Tel (02) 478 7080
∑ warwickhotels.com designed by the artist-owner ∑ alliance-brussels-expo.h-rez.com
This exquisitely luxurious Philippe Guilmin. Studio Near the Brussels Exhibition
establishment by the Grand apartments for longer stays. Centre, with a metro station
Place is one of the best hotels close by. Rooms are basic but
in the city. Marble bathrooms Sabina € comfortable.
and French antiques adorn the Value Map 2 F2
rooms, some of which are very Rue du Nord 78, 1000 Best Western County House €
spacious. The Grand Place Tel (02) 218 2637 Business
Suite is one of the finest ∑ hotelsabina.eu Square des Heros 2–4, 1180
hotel rooms in Europe. No-frills hotel tucked away in a Tel (02) 375 4420
quiet corner in the city centre. ∑ bestwestern.be
Althought some rooms are Spacious rooms in a peaceful
small, the hotel is, nevertheless, park-side location. Enjoy
Upper Town excellent value for money. complimentary buffet breakfast.
Best Western Hotel Meeting and conference centre.
Royal Centre € 9Hotel Sablon €€
Modern Map 2 F1 Design Map 2 D4 Capital €
Rue Royale 160, 1000 Rue de la Paille 2, 1000 Modern
Tel (02) 219 0065 Tel (02) 880 0701 Chaussée de Vleurgat 191, 1050 Ixelles
∑ royalcentre.be ∑ le9hotel.com Tel (02) 646 6420
A well-priced four-star hotel Friendly boutique hotel with a ∑ hotelcapital.be
within walking distance of the Finnish sauna, whirlpool tub and Well-fitted rooms, with more
Royal Palace. Rates inclusive of relaxation centre. Boasts large luxurious suites also available.
Continental breakfast. rooms with split-level suites. In summer, enjoy breakfast
on the terrace.
Les Bluets € La Dixseptieme €€
Value Historic Map 2 D3 Rembrandt €
Rue Berckmans 124, 1060 Rue de la Madeleine 25, 1000 Value
Tel (02) 534 3983 Tel (02) 517 1717 Rue de la Concorde 42, 1050 Ixelles
∑bluets.be ∑ ledixseptieme.be Tel (02) 512 7139
Charming family-run, non- The former home of a 17th- ∑ hotelrembrandt.be
smoking hotel in a 19th-century century Spanish ambassador. A cosy, family-run hotel that’s full
bourgeois town house. Eight All rooms are named after of character, and superb value
rooms decorated with a mix of famous Belgian artists and the given its excellent location near
antique furnishings. lounge has its own art library. Avenue Louise.
Key to Price Guide see page 140
W H E R E TO S TAY 143
de Orangerie €€€
DK Choice
Luxury Map P3 Antwerp
Kartuizerinnenstraat 10, 8000 Julien €€€
Tel (050) 34 16 49 Boulevard Leopold € Design Map K1
∑ hotelorangerie.be Value Korte Nieuwstraat 24, 2000
This waterfront hotel is set in Belgielei 135, 2018 Tel (03) 229 06 00
a 16th-century former convent. Tel (03) 225 5218 ∑ hotel-julien.com
The rooms are superb, and ∑ boulevard-leopold.be Occupying two 16th-century
the common areas boast Housed in a beautiful mansion in houses, this hotel is the
antiques galore. the atmospheric Jewish Quarter, epitome of Antwerp style. The
interior décor is elegant, the
rooms are luxurious and the
location perfectly placed in the
heart of the old town.
Travellers with
Disabilities
While facilities for the disabled
in Brussels are in general not as
good as those in most other EU
capitals, almost every restaurant
in the city will go out of its
way to make disabled diners
feel comfortable. There are a
Outdoor tables at Chez Léon on Rue des Bouchers (see p151) limited number of restaurants
with ramps and ground-
Ordering Food vegetarian couscous courses. floor bathrooms, so check
On the whole, Belgians like to Ghent, by contrast, has actively accessibility before making a
eat beef fairly rare. If you ask for encouraged a move away from reservation; the same applies to
a medium-rare steak, it is likely meat-eating by declaring Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp.
to be cooked more rare than Thursday to be “Veggie Day”
medium. The quality of the beef (a promotional campaign,
usually justifies light cooking, rather than a strict edict). Recommended
but if you want your meat well Restaurants
done, insist on it, and ignore any The restaurants featured in this
raised eyebrows. Lamb is also Etiquette guide have been selected for
served rare; again, ask for it to Brussels, and Belgium generally, is their good food, value, location,
be well done if you prefer. Use less relaxed than, say, Amsterdam atmosphere or a combination of
the phrasebook at the back of and, although casual or smart- all of these. As wide a range of
this guide to help when ordering. casual dress is acceptable in all places as possible has been
restaurants, you will probably feel included, from cafés, pubs and
more comfortable dressing up bistros to a selection of the city’s
Breakfast and Snacks for upmarket places. Michelin-starred restaurants.
Breakfasting in a café or Look out for those tagged as a
brasserie, such as the Belgian DK Choice: these restaurants
chain Le Pain Quotidien (Het Children have been highlighted in
Dagelijks Brood in Dutch), is In general, Belgium is child- recognition of an exceptional
recommended if breakfast friendly. Many establishments feature – exquisite food, an
is not included in your hotel have children’s menus, although inviting atmosphere, an unusual
accommodation. For snackers they are not always the setting or simply great value.
with a sweet tooth, seek out cheapest option. Highchairs The majority of these are
the stands, vans or cafés should be available on request, exceptionally popular among
producing hot waffles, which and some restaurants have local residents as well as visitors,
can be topped with jam, cream indoor play areas. On the so be sure to enquire regarding
or chocolate. Sweet crêpes/ outskirts of Brussels or near one reservations or you may be faced
pannekoeken (pancakes), with of the parks, eateries may offer with a lengthy wait for a table.
lemon and sugar or chocolate, extensive outside playgrounds.
are just as popular – and filling. Children are usually allowed
in cafés and bars, although
they are forbidden to drink
Vegetarians alcohol. Note that while some
Despite a marked upturn in restaurants may be too formal
recent years, Brussels is far from for children to feel comfortable,
being a vegetarian-friendly city. not even the most celebrated
Pescetarians will find that Michelin-starred places will
mainstream restaurants cater turn them away.
generously to their needs;
Brussels is very strong on fish
and seafood. There are only a Smoking
handful of specialist vegetarian Brussels is still very much a
restaurants, but the traditional smokers’ city, although smoking
dish stoemp is a classic vege- is prohibited inside restaurants,
tarian dish. North African bars and cafés. Many bars and The elegant dining room of La Rose Blanche
restaurants usually offer restaurant premises provide in the Upper Town (see p152)
146 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
The Pâtissier
No Belgian community is
without a pâtisserie, selling
superlative tarts, cakes and
biscuits, and many pâtissiers
double-up as chocolatiers.
Gaufres (waffles) are another
great sweet treat, sold at
specialist shops and street
stalls. Enjoyed freshly made,
Fish restaurant in the elegant Galéries St-Hubert shopping arcade topped with knobs of butter
and a sprinkling of sugar, they
(or steak tartare) and on toast on in commercial market- may be raised to perfection
as the snack, toast cannibale. gardens. In the 1840s, Belgian with spoonfuls of jam or fruit
Dairy cattle are the source of gardeners created chicon and fresh cream.
fine cheeses, such as Herve, (witloof ) by forcing the roots of
Chimay and Maredsous. the chicorée lettuce. It is now ON THE MENU
Pork products include a one of Belgium’s most widely
range of sausages, patés and used vegetables, although the White asparagus An early
the noted Ardennes ham. In most popular must be the summer speciality, it is usually
potato, in the form of chips served with melted butter or
autumn and winter, look out
hard-boiled egg and parsley.
for game, such as wild boar, (French fries). Frites (frietjes),
pheasant and venison, often Jets d’houblon Spring menus
served in a rich fruity sauce. feature this dish of young hop
Quail, guinea fowl, pigeon and shoots in a creamy sauce.
rabbit are also popular. Crevettes grises Tiny but
big on flavour, these “grey”
shrimps are a popular snack.
The Vegetable Patch
Stoemp Mashed potato, with
Not long ago, most Belgian flecks of vegetables or meat,
householders toiled to fill their make up this pub favourite.
gardens with tightly-packed Garnaalkroketten Deep-fried
rows of top-class vegetables – croquettes, filled with shrimp.
beans, leeks, lettuces, carrots,
Speculoos These buttery, spicy
potatoes and onions. This
biscuits are available in festive
tradition may be waning, but Freshly made waffles on a street stall, a
shapes for Christmas.
the same quest for quality lives familiar sight in the city
Carbonnade flamande Beef is Waterzooî This classic stew Flamiche aux Poireaux Leeks,
cooked in Belgian beer, with a from Ghent consists of fish or fried in butter and whisked with
touch of sugar, to make this chicken and vegetables, cream and eggs, are baked in a
hearty casserole. poached in a creamy broth. crisp pastry shell.
148 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Belgian Beer
Belgium makes more beers, in a greater mix of styles and
flavours, than any other country in the world. The Belgian
citizen drinks on average 100 litres (200 pints) a year, and
even small bars will stock at least 20 varieties. The nation’s
breweries produce over 400 different beers.
The cheerful peasants in Brueghel the Elder’s 16th-century
medieval village scenes would have been drinking beer from
their local brewery, many of which had been active since the
11th century, as every small town and community produced
its own beer. By 1900, there remained 3,000 private breweries
throughout Belgium. Today, more than 100 still operate, with
experts agreeing that even large industrial concerns produce
a fine quality beer.
Detail from The Wedding Dance by Pieter
Brueghel the Elder
Trappist Beers
The most revered of refreshments, Belgium’s Trappist beers have been
highly rated since the Middle Ages when monks began brewing them.
The drink originated in Roman times when Belgium was a province of
Chimay label with authentic Gaul, Gallia Belgica. Beer was a private domestic product
Trappist mark until the monasteries took over and introduced hops to
the process. Today’s production is still controlled solely by
the five Trappist monasteries, although the brewers are
mostly laymen. Trappist beers are characterized by their
rich, yeasty flavour. They are very strong, ranging from
6.2 to 11 per cent in alcohol content by volume. The most
celebrated of the 20 brands is Chimay, brewed at Belgium’s
largest monastic brewery in Hainaut. This delicate but
potent bottled beer has three different strengths, and is
Label for Westmalle best kept for many years before drinking. The strongest Chimay served in its
Trappist beer Trappist beer is Westvleteren, from Ypres. correct glass
Lambic Beers
Made for centuries in the Senne Valley around Brussels,
the unique family of lambic beers are made using yeasts
naturally present in the air to ferment the beer, rather
than being added separately to the water and grain
mix. Containers of unfermented wort (water, wheat and
barley) are left under a half-open roof in the brewery
and wild airborne yeasts, only present in
the atmosphere of this region of Belgium,
descend to ferment it. Unlike the sterility of
many breweries and officially exempt from
EU hygiene regulations, lambic cellars are
deliberately left dusty and uncleaned in
order for the necessary fungal activity to
thrive. Matured in untreated wooden casks
for up to five years, the lambic is deliciously
sour to drink, with a moderate strength of
5 per cent alcohol.
Young and old lambic beers are blended
together to produce the variant of gueuze.
A tiny bead, distinctive champagne mousse
and a toasty, slightly acid flavour, are its
main characteristics. Bars and restaurants
Lambic lay down their gueuze for up to two years Brewer sampling beer from the vat at a brewery
cherry beer before it is drunk. outside Brussels
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 149
DK Choice
Nüetnigenough €
Belgian Map 1 C3
Rue du Lombard 25, 1000
Tel (02) 513 7884
A nuëtnigenough, in local
dialect, means a person who
can never have enough. This
brasserie is successful in
offering more than enough in
terms of food choice, quality,
prices and service. The focus is
on Belgian classics, modernized
and made using the freshest
seasonal produce. Daily specials
are written on the chalkboard,
and there is a list of 40
exemplary beers.
Well-stocked bar at the opulently decorated Café Métropole
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 151
Le Pain Quotidien €
Café Map 1 C2
Rue Antoine Dansaert 16A, 1000
Tel (02) 502 2361
Famed for its large communal
tables and the best croissants
and pain au chocolat in Brussels.
A great choice for its delicious
and inventive lunchtime salads.
Pin Pon €
Belgian Map 1 C5
Place du Jeu de Balle 62, 1000
Tel (02) 540 8999 Closed Mon–Tue
Located in a former fire station
overlooking the lively Jeu de
Balle, this smart but easy-going
restaurant offers modernized- Neatly arranged tables in Belga Queen
classic Belgian cuisine.
La Belle Maraîchère €€ Chez Léon €€
Plattesteen € Belgian Map 1 C2 Belgian Map 2 D2
Café Map 1 C3 Place Ste-Catherine 11, 1000 Rue des Bouchers 18, 1000
Rue du Marché au Charbon 41, 1000 Tel (02) 512 97 59 Closed Wed & Thu Tel (02) 511 1415
Tel (02) 512 8203 A fine restaurant which proves Founded in 1893, this place is
A chilled-out microcosm of the that good food does not have to a stalwart of traditional Belgian
trendiest area of the city centre, break the bank. Two set menus culinary standards. There are
with a decent menu offering offer terrific choice and value. several versions of the classic
Belgian classics, a good range of Warm, bistro-like atmosphere. moules et frites to choose from.
beers and a great atmosphere The children’s menu is excellent
during the day and at night. Big Mama €€ and free for children under 12.
International Map 1 C2
Le Roy d’Espagne € Place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés 41, Chez Patrick €€
Café Map 2 D3 1000 Belgian Map 2 D3
Grand Place 1, 1000 Tel (02) 513 3659 Rue des Chapeliers 6, 1000
Tel (02) 513 0807 Warm and cosy eatery, where Tel (02) 511 9815 Closed Sun & Mon
A drink on the Grand Place is an children are well catered for with Warm and inviting, Chéz Patrick is
essential part of any visit to their own menu. The four-course a great place for sampling
Brussels. Le Roy d’Espagne is one set menu, including an aperitif, traditional Belgian cuisine in a
of the best priced places with a changes often and is great value. relaxed setting. The hearty
huge two-tiered bar housed in lunchtime plats du jour are always
the bakers’ guild house. On the Bonsoir Clara €€ excellent value.
food menu are several appetizers, Modern European Map 1 C2
salads and Belgian dishes. Rue Antoine Dansaert 22, 1000 In ‘t Spinnekopke €€
Tel (02) 502 0990 Closed Sat & Sun: Belgian Map 1 B2
Den Teepot € lunch Place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1, 1000
Vegetarian Map 1 B2 One of the prettiest restaurants Tel (02) 511 8695 Closed Sun
Rue des Chartreux 66, 1000 in town, Clara is high on style Intimate, former 18th-century
Tel (02) 511 9402 Closed Sun and often bustling with the city’s coaching inn, “In the Spider’s
One of the best vegetarian fashionable crowd. Find a range Head” has a strong range of
options in the city located above of European favourites, including unusual local brews and
its sister health-food shop. Many many Mediterranean specials. food items that are cooked
of the dishes on its lunch-only in these brews.
menu feature beans and pulses. La Cantina €€
South American Map 1 C3 Jardin van Gogh €€
Het Warm Water € Rue du Jardin des Olives 13–15, 1000 Modern Belgian Map 1 C2
Café Map 1 C5 Tel (02) 513 4276 Closed Sun Place Ste-Catherine 5–7, 1000
Rue des Renards 25, 1000 Customers to La Cantina come Tel (02) 512 1831
Tel (02) 513 9159. Closed Mon–Wed for the feijoada, the rather heavy Located in an 18th-century house
A pleasant little Flemish café on Brazilian national dish of rice, once inhabited by Vincent van
the narrow Rue des Renards. red beans, pork, smoked bacon Gogh. The menu has good
A great spot to relax with some and spicy sausages. brasserie standards or, if you want
cake and a glass of gueuze. to push the boat out, some
Le Cap €€ sumptuous seafood platters..
Belga Queen €€ Belgian Map 1 C3
Belgian Map 2 D2 Place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés 28, La Kasbah €€
Rue Fossé aux Loups 32, 1000 1000 Moroccan Map 1 C2
Tel (02) 217 2187 Tel (02) 512 9342 Closed Sat, Sun Rue Antoine Dansaert 20, 1000
The chic Belga Queen is located lunch Tel (02) 502 4026
in the former Hôtel de la Poste, A popular local meeting place; Sample North African food in a
a cavernous belle-époque bank look out for the daily specials dark interior with ethnic decor.
with a magnificent glassed alongside a good selection of The attentive service and decent
ceiling. Try the special beer and Old and New World wines, all Moroccan wines ensure that it is
tasting menu. at decent prices. always busy, but still intimate.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 145
152 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Alexandre €€€
French Map 1 C4
Rue du Midi 164, 1000
Tel (02) 502 40 55 Closed Sat lunch,
Sun & Mon
Savour superbly inventive
seasonal French cuisine in a
refined atmosphere. Though
expensive, the three-course set
menu is excellent value. There are
only a few tables, so reserve well
in advance.
Mille-et-une Nuits €
North African
Rue de Moscou 7, 1060 Saint-Gilles
Tel (02) 537 4127 Closed Mon &
Lunchtimes
This gem – decorated to give the
impression of the inside of a
Bedouin tent – lies hidden away
in bohemian St Gilles. Delicious
North African food at reasonable
prices. The service is cordial.
Musical Instruments
Museum Restaurant €
Belgian Map 2 E4
Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000
Diners at L’Ultime Atome in Greater Brussels Tel 02) 502 9508 Closed Mon, dinner
Located on the top floor of the
Wine Bar Sablon €€ WY €€€ museum, this restaurant affords
French Map 1 C5 Modern European superb views of the city. The
Rue Haute 198, 1000 Bodenbroekstraat 22–24, 1000 daytime-only menu offers Belgian
Tel 0496 820105 Closed Mon–Wed Tel (02) 400 42 63 cuisine and a Sunday brunch that
Great food in a more relaxed, Contemporary, inventive Michelin- is famed throughout the city.
less formal atmosphere than starred food in a chic, spacious
many places in Brussels. Offers setting. On offer are superb Le Rubis €
a bistro menu which changes steaks and seafood, as well as a Cambodian Map 4 E4
regularly. wide range of champagnes and Av de Tervueren 22, 1040 Etterbeek
wines from its excellent bar. Tel (02) 733 05 49 Closed Sat & Sun
L’Ecailler du Palais Royal €€€ Quite simply, a real find. An eye-
Seafood Map 2 D4 catching collection of Khmer art,
Rue Bodenbroek 18, 1000 Greater Brussels sets the scene for lightly spiced,
Tel (02) 512 8751 Closed Aug La Buvette € aromatic Cambodian dishes.
L’Ecailler du Palais Royal is housed Wine Bar
in a 17th-century mansion. Chaussée d’Alsemberg 108, 1060 La Terrasse €
The menu is dominated by fish Saint-Gilles Belgian/International Map 4 E4
and seafood dishes. It is Tel (02) 534 1303 Closed Sun & Mon Av des Celtes 1, 1040
particularly strong on the range Opposite Café des Spores (below) Tel (02) 732 2851
and quality of its oysters. lies its twin wine bar, La Buvette. A lovely old brasserie, where
The focus here is on the quality European Union journalists, MEPs
L’Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles €€€ wine list, but the rustic dishes on and Commission fonctionnaires
Belgian Map 2 D4 offer are more than generous. sit cheek by jowl while munching
Rue de Rollebeek 7, 1000 on huge plates of steak americain
Tel (02) 512 5857 Closed Tue Café Belga € and sipping delicious beers.
The old establishment of Café
L’Estrille du Vieux Bruxelles has Place Flagey 18, 1050 Ixelles Tout Près Tout Prêt €
something of a venerable Tel (02) 640 3508 Sandwiches
literary pedigree: La Tribune Located in an Art Deco building Chaussée de Boondael 413, 1050
Poétique once held their comple, with a bohemian feel. Tel (02) 640 8080 Closed Sun
meetings here. The eatery Serves a decent range of light Between the twin universities
specializes in traditional, beer- meals alongside great coffee. Université Libre de Bruxelles and
soaked Belgian cuisine. Vrije Universiteit Brussel, this
Café des Spores € cheap, no-frills sandwich bar
Kwint €€€ Belgian offers quick, inventive snacks
Belgian Map 2 D3 Chaussée d’Alsemberg 103, 1060 to a largely student crowd.
Mont des Arts 1, 1000 Saint-Gilles
Tel (02) 505 9595 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 534 13 03 Closed Sun L’Ultime Atome €
lunch With the entire cuisine based Belgian
Designed by leading Belgian around different kinds of Rue St Boniface 14, 1050 Ixelles
conceptual artist Arne Quinze, mushrooms, including unique Tel (02) 513 48 84
the dazzling Kwint serves food desserts, Café des Spores is an This cavernous, bustling and
with delicious flavours added excellent and quirky dining option. noisy brasserie has a good range
to traditional Belgian cuisine. Also has an exciting wine list. of vegetarian options, and serves
fantastic crêpes for breakfast.
Senza Nome €€€ La Fin de Siècle €
Italian Belgian Brasserie Georges €€
Place du Petit Sablon 1, 1000 Rue des Chartreux 9, 1000 French
Tel (02) 223 1617 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 512 5123 Closed Sun Av Churchill 259, 1180
Michelin-starred traditional Italian Located in a side street near Tel (02) 347 2100
food with a contemporary twist the Bourse, this cosy Belgian Gorgeous Parisian-style seafood
and good wines. The aglio e olio restaurant in a 19th-century brasserie with numerous waiters
with squid ink pasta is a marvel building offers generous portions in floor-length aprons and a
of simplicity and the dégustation of traditional dishes. Friendly conspicuous shellfish stall at
menus a wonderful treat. service and lovely atmosphere. the front doors.
Key to Price Guide see page 150
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 155
Brasserie La Paix €€ starred place packs a powerful star at his last restaurant, Bistrot
Belgian gastronomic punch. Try the du Mail. Here, minimalist decor
Rue Ropsy Chaudron 49, 1070 house pigeon – delicious and and his outstanding French
Tel (02) 523 09 58 Closed Sat & Sun remarkably good value as well. gastronomic cuisine make for an
A family-run eatery that has been exquisite dining experience.
serving up Belgian classics for Relais St-Job €€
more than three decades. Terrific Belgian Bruneau €€
food with something for all Place Saint-Job 1, 1180 Modern European
tastes and budgets – despite the Tel (02) 375 5724 Av Broustin 73, 1083
Michelin star. Far from the bustle of the city, sit Tel (02) 421 70 70 Closed Tue & Wed
on the roof of the Relais in good With a choice of set menus (three
Café Maris €€ weather, and enjoy chilled rosé or five courses), there is some-
Seafood and dishes such as knuckle of thing for everyone – at a price, of
Chaussée de Waterloo 1260, 1180 ham and creamy mustard sauce. course – at this creative, Michelin-
Tel (02) 374 8834 Closed Mon starred restaurant.
(excepting pub hols) Touareg €€
This splendid Parisian-style Moroccan Le Chalet de la Forêt €€€
brasserie, complete with an Art Av Jean et Pierre Carsoel 13, 1180 Fine Dining
Deco interior and a warm Uccle Drève de Lorraine 43, 1180
atmosphere, has a strong Tel (02) 534 5400 Closed Sun lunch Tel (02) 374 5416 Closed Sat
following. Fish and seafood A traditional Moroccan mix of & Sun
dishes are the order of the day. Berber, Arab and Andalusian With two Michelin stars, Le
cuisines is made using only the Chalet de la Forêt serves first-
La Canne en Ville €€ most authentic ingredients and class food with the best seasonal
French following traditional recipes. and local ingredients. The
Rue de la Réforme 22, 1050 Ixelles superb fish is a hallmark,
Tel (02) 347 2926 Closed Sat lunch, Le Variétés €€ alongside the brilliant wine list.
Sun Belgian
In a former butcher’s shop on a Place Ste-Croix 4, 1050 Ixelles En Face de Parachute €€€
quiet corner of Ixelles, this laid- Tel (02) 647 0436 French
back restaurant effortlessly serves Located in a magnificent Art Chaussée de Waterloo 578, 1050 Ixelles
up excellent French classics. It’s Deco building, Le Variétés has Tel (02) 346 4741 Closed Sun & Mon
worth booking ahead, as it’s splendidly re-created a 1930s This Corsican-Marseillaise fusion
very popular with a food-savvy brasserie. The beef tartare is establishment has a chalkboard
local clientele. particularly good. menu that changes daily
and includes vegetarian
Le Fils de Jules €€ Bon-Bon €€€ options. Cosy ambience
Basque Fine Dining and relaxed service.
Rue du Page 35, 1050 Ixelles Av de Tervueren 453, 1150
Tel (02) 534 0057 Closed lunch, Tel (02) 346 66 15 Closed Sat & Sun Kamo €€€
Sun With two Michelin stars, Bon-Bon Japanese
Art-Deco Basque bistro popular serves visually stunning, complex Chaussée de Waterloo 550a, 1050
for its tartare of tuna, spicy dishes in a series of multi-course, Ixelles
squid and the rest of the menu’s gastronomic tasting menus. Tel (02) 648 7848 Closed Sat
resolutely Basque repertoire. Fabulous wine pairings too. & Sun
Probably Belgium’s best
Les Fils à Papa €€ Bouchéry €€€ Japanese restaurant, with
French Modern European a Michelin star. Sit at the
Chaussée de Waterloo 1484, 1180 Chaussée d’Alsemberg 812a, 1180 bar and watch the chefs in
Uccle Tel (02) 332 3774 Closed lunch, Sun action in the open kitchen.
Tel (02) 374 4144 Closed Sat & Sun: Chef Damian Bouchéry has A small space, so reservations
lunch already been awarded a Michelin are highly recommended.
It is worth the 15-minute drive
from the city centre to Uccle to
dine at this charming old house
with a delightful terrace serving
top French food..
Le Loup Voyant €€
International
Av de la Couronne 562, 1050 Ixelles
Tel (02) 640 02 08
This restaurant in the student area
offers a wide variety of Belgian
favourites as well as a good
selection of Italian pasta dishes.
Le Pigeon Noir €€
French
Rue Geleytsbeek 2, 1180 Uccle
Tel (02) 375 2374 Closed Sat & Sun
It might have the ambience of a
country bistro, but this Michelin- Outdoor tables on the charming terrace of Bouchéry
For more information on types of restaurants see page 145
156 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Den Huzaar €
International
Vlamingstraat 36, 8000
Tel (050) 33 3797 Closed Wed & Thu
Hearty old-school Flemish
cooking, but with a touch
of class and a dash of
inventiveness, making this
centrally located bistro a
favourite among both locals
and visitors..
Lotus €
Wood-beamed interior of Café Vlissinghe, Bruges Vegetarian Map B3
Wapenmakersstraat 5, 8000
Le Monde est Petit €€€ La Truffe Noire €€€ Tel (050) 33 1078 Closed dinner; Sat
Fine Dining Fine Dining & Sun
Rue des Bataves 65, 1040 Etterbeek Blvd de la Cambre 12, 1050 Ixelles There are usually just two options
Tel (02) 732 4434 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (02) 640 4422 Closed Sat lunch on the menu at this vegetarian
Classically-minded cooking with & Sun café. These are served in three
an emphasis on the freshest Extravagant, with one Michelin sizes but lunch – the only meal
seasonal ingredients has earned star and prices to match. The served – is hearty no matter
this unpretentious Etterbeek menu might include such items what size chosen.
restaurant a Michelin star. as a Périgord truffle cooked in a
Porto jus, or warm duck foie gras De Refter €
Le Passage €€€ with honey-roasted carrots. Belgian Map B3
Belgian Molenmeers 2, 8000
Avenue Jean en Pierre Carsoel 17, Tel (050) 44 4900 Closed Sun & Mon
1180 Uccle Stepping down from the heady
Tel (02) 374 6694 Closed Sat lunch & Bruges heights of running 3-Michelin
Sun star De Karmeliet, Bruges super-
Serves simple yet exquisite Bhavani € chef Geert Van Hecke has gone
Michelin-starred food in a bright Indian Map A4 back to basics. At this bistro,
setting. Great set menus, both Simon Stevinplein 5, 8000 traditional Flemish cooking is the
extravagant (in the evening) Tel (050) 33 9025 Closed Wed order of the day - though
and accessible (at lunchtime). Excellent, welcoming eatery that inevitably it’s served up with
serves a wide range of Indian considerable panache.
dishes, of which the Kashmiri
DK Choice rogan josh (a signature aromatic De Republiek €
La Quincaillerie €€€ lamb dish) is one of its best. Café Map A3
Belgian St Jacobsstraat 36, 8000
Rue du Page 45, 1050 Ixelles Café Craenenburg € Tel (050) 34 0229
Tel (02) 533 9833 Closed Sun Café Map A3 A medium-sized café, popular
lunch, first 3 weeks Aug Markt 16, 8000 with students and artists who
This visually stunning Tel (050) 33 3402 drink in the courtyard at night.
restaurant, housed in a former Situated in the north-west of It is also part of a cinema and
hardware store from the 1900s; Grote Markt, this bar is a little theatre complex.
serves excellent steaks and the away from the more tourist-
seafood counter, with its heavy bars. The limited menu Brasserie Erasmus €€
fantastic selection of oysters, is includes pasta dishes, salads Belgian Map B3
one of the best in Brussels. While and sandwiches. Wollestraat 35, 8000
it’s not available Friday and Tel (050) 33 5781
Saturday evenings, the “Saveur” Café Vlissinghe € Found in the centrally located
set menu is a steal. They have Café Map B2 hotel of the same name, every
their own house ale, and good Blekersstraat 2, 8000 single dish on the menu here
international wines too. Tel (050) 34 3737 Closed Mon & Tue is made with beer. Try the
The genuinely medieval rabbit in beer sauce or the
Vlissinghe dates back to 1515 fish waterzooî.
Rouge Tomate €€€ and is the city’s oldest hostelery.
Modern European The interior is an historical Cafédraal €€
Av Louise 190, 1050 marvel and there is also a Belgian Map A4
Tel (02) 647 70 44 Closed Sat lunch & beautiful beer garden. Zilverstraat 38, 8000
Sun Tel (050) 34 0845 Closed Sun
Though it may not be the place Cambrinus € One of the most attractive
for a hearty stew, Rouge Tomate Belgian Map B3 restaurants in Bruges. Its
always satisfies with its except- Philipstockstraat 19, 800 medieval setting is a delight and
ionally delicious food. The quality Tel (050) 33 2328 provides a highly atmospheric
of produce and the seasonal A lively brasserie offering robust backdrop to the inventive dishes
menu is a matter of pride. Flemish cuisine - much of it based around meat and shellfish.
Key to Price Guide see page 150
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 157
De Stove €€ rustic setting, with four separate some local touches. The seafood
Belgian Map A3 dining rooms, enhances the pancake is recommended, but
Kleine Sint-Amandsstraat 4, 8000 unique atmosphere. their best item is the paella. Wash
Tel (050) 33 7835 Closed Mon–Sat it down with Spanish wines.
lunch , Wed & Thu dinner
The foie gras at this restaurant is DK Choice Brasserie Pakhuis €€
exceptional, but do also try the De Frietketel € Belgian Map E2
fresh North Sea fish, supplied Fries Map D2 Schuurkenstraat 4, 9000
daily – particularly the breaded Papegaaistraat 89, 9000 Tel (09) 223 5555 Closed Sun
cod in butter sauce. Intimate Tel (09) 329 4022 Closed Sat & An ultra-hip renovated 19th-
spot, with just a few tables. Sun lunch century warehouse. Sit on oak
Widely regarded as serving and marble tables amongst
Duc de Bourgogne €€€ the very best fries in all of exposed giant cast-iron pillars.
Seafood Map B3 Belgium, this chip shop is a The menu features seafood
Huidenvettersplein 12, 8000 Ghent legend, and the queues platters and Flemish favourites.
Tel (050) 33 2038 outside at busy times speak
Overlooking a canal in the historic for themselves. There are Coeur d’Artichaut €€
centre, the Duc is always busy, so burgers too, including a great Fusion Map E2
make a reservation. The delicious vegetarian variety. If the place Koreniei 6, 9000
bouillabaisse made with local sea is full, just grab some fries and Tel (09) 225 3318 Closed Sun eve
fish is the house speciality. the excellent gravy, and eat Prepares a monthly changing
them on the go. A must for menu that features classic
Den Dyver €€€ anyone visiting Ghent. European dishes made with a
Belgian Map B4 twist, in addition to inventive
Dijver 5, 8000 Asian selections. Great location
Tel (050) 33 6069 Groot Vleeshuis € in an impressive mansion.
This stylish restaurant makes Belgian Map E1
creative use of local produce and Groentenmarkt 7, 9000 Keizershof €€
Belgian beers in its dishes. Three-, Tel (09) 233 2324 Closed Mon Belgian
four- or five-course set menus are This medieval butcher’s hall Vrijdagmarkt 47, 9000
available in addition to a makes a spectacular setting for Tel (09) 223 4446 Closed Sun &
sophisticated à la carte selection. a meaty lunchtime sandwich or Mon
even meatier tourist “formule”. Located in a narrow 17th-century
The gentse waterzooî (chicken building on the market square,
DK Choice stew) is particularly great. Keizershof serves well-priced
Den Gouden Harynck €€€ Belgian staples and salads.
Seafood Map B4 Kapittelhuis € Paintings by local artists decorate
Groeninge 25, 8000 International Map F2 the walls.
Tel (050) 33 7637 Closed Sun Lange Kruisstraat 4, 9000
& Mon Tel (09) 336 8519 Closed Sun Nestor €€
Chef Philippe Serruys and his This restaurant offers a wide Belgian Map E1
wife run this restaurant located choice of dishes, ranging from Kraanlei 17, 9000
in a 17th-century building in steaks to pasta. The adjoining Tel (09) 225 1880 Closed Sun
the museum district. The tea room serves great waffles One of the city’s best mid-
restaurant is very attuned to the and pancakes. Good choice range bistros, with a friendly
seasonal, and the menu doesn’t for families. atmosphere and a dark, modern
always stays the same, but the decor. Specialities on the menu
sea bass with coarse sea salt Tapasbar La Malcontenta € include charcoal-grilled meat
and rosemary is a must-try. Spanish Map E1 and fish dishes.
Haringsteeg 7–9, 9000
Tel (09) 224 1801 Closed Mon Georges IV €€€
De Visscherie €€€ Spanish eatery that serves Seafood Map E2
Seafood Map B3 specialities from the Canary Donkersteeg 23–27, 9000
Vismarkt 8, 8000 Isles and Latin America, with Tel (09) 225 1918 Closed Mon & Tue
Tel (050) 33 0212 Closed Tue A Ghent institution, this family
Overlooking the centuries-old business is one of the city’s
Vismarkt (fish market). Any of pricier restaurants but offers
the turbot variations served here superior, wonderful food. The
are a must-try. Popular among oysters, crab and mussels of
locals, so book ahead. Lélande are the main attractions.
Horseele €€€
French
Ghent Ottergemsesteenweg-Zuid 808, 9000
Tel (09) 330 23 20 Closed Sat lunch,
Chez Liontine € Sun & Mon
Belgian Map E1 A Michelin-starred eatery in a
Groentenmarkt 10–11, 9000 highly unusual location (Ghent’s
Tel (09) 225 0680 Closed Mon–Wed football stadium) offering
A friendly little restaurant in fantastic food with multiple
which diners can savour fresh amazingly inventive set menus to
Flemish specialities, some of The dining area of Groot Vleeshuis, or great choose from. Closed on days
which are made with beer. The butchers’ hall when there is a match.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 145
158 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Jan van den Bon €€€ steaks – at affordable prices. Mie Katoen €
Fusion Map E5 Comes complete with its own Fondue Map K1
Koning Leopold II-laan 43, 9000 absinthe bar. Koolkaai 9, 2000
Tel (09) 221 9085 Closed Sat for Tel (03) 231 1309 Closed Tue & Wed
Lunch, Sun & Mon Ciro’s € Popular little fondue house
Outstanding Michelin-starred Belgian located on a farm in central
food featuring all sorts of Amerikalei 6, 2000 Antwerp. Choose one of the
flavours from around the world. Tel (03) 238 1147 Closed Mon & Jul traditional fondues or try
Offers both tasting and à la The best steaks and gorgeous something different – the
carte menus. Outstanding hand-cut chips in Antwerp are Japanese fondue served with
quality guaranteed. served at Ciro’s, which was last tempura, for instance.
redecorated in 1962. The place is
Valentijn €€€ best defined as “rough and ready”, Hippodroom €€
French Map E1 but that’s how the regulars like it. Franco-Belgian Map J3
Rodekoningstraat 1, 9000 Leopold De Waelplaats 10, 2000
Tel (09) 225 0429 Closed Sun Fong Mei € Tel (03) 248 5252 Closed Sun & Mon
evening, Thu, Mon-Sat for Lunch. Chinese The early 20th-century building
A favourite with the city’s locals, Van Arteveldestraat 65–67, 2060 that houses Hippodroom is also
who come especially for the Tel (03) 225 0654 home to an enviable collection
great-value four-course menu. Offers very good, outstanding of art and photography. The
The restaurant prides itself on value Chinese food in a cuisine here is as modern as its
using only the freshest ingredients. city where dining is seldom contemporary fittings.
cheap. Does an excellent
Volta €€€ dim sum menu. which contains Huis de Colvenier €€
Seafood Map E1 several vegetarian dim sums French Map K2
Nieuwe Wandeling 2b, 9000 to choose from. Sint Antoniusstraat 8, 2000
Tel (09) 324 0500 Closed Sun & Mon Tel (0477) 232650
This über cool converted turbine De Foyer € This is one of Antwerp’s most
hall just outside the centre is Belgian Map L2 respected restaurants, so
home to one of Ghent’s finest Komedieplaats 18, 2000 booking ahead is a must. Enjoy
new restaurants, with a superb Tel (03) 233 5517 the warm welcome, choose from
menu of highly imaginative fish Opulent space in the foyer of a menus of 3 up to 7 courses of
and seafood dishes. 19th-century theatre. Red velvet first-rate French cooking, sit back,
drapes and marble columns add and let the culinary fun begin.
to the sumptuous feel. The prices,
DK Choice however, are reasonable. InVINcible €€
Vrijmoed €€€ Seafood Map K2
Belgian Map F2 De Groote Witte Arend € Haarstraat 9, 2000
Vlaanderenstraat 22, 9000 Belgian Tel (03) 231 3207 Closed Sat & Sun
Tel (09) 279 9977 Closed Sat & Reyndersstraat 18, 2000 Many of the items on the
Sun, Mon lunch Tel (03) 233 5033 menu here are based on that
Terrific-value set menus are Located in a fine building dating morning’s catch from the North
the main draws at this from the 15th century. There is Sea, and the open kitchen
contemporary Michelin-starred nothing fancy about the food allows diners to watch the
eatery, popular with Ghent’s here, but diners are guaranteed chefs at work.
youth. The offerings include a good, hearty Flemish fare.
decent range of vegetarian ‘t Karveel €€
dishes, which is quite unusual Het Kathedraal € Café
in this town. Café Map K2 Vlaamse Kaai 11, 2000
Torfbrug 10, 2000 Tel (03) 237 3623 Closed Mon
Tel (03) 289 3466 This themed bar is styled on
Het Kathedraal is a mandatory pit a 16th-century ship and
stop when wandering through includes portholes, ropes,
Antwerp the centre of town. This café’s barrels, rigging and cannons
decor is kitschy yet great fun. in its decor. The beer can be
Amadeus € Offers a good value three-course ordered at the rudder. Bar food
Belgian set lunch. is available.
Sint-Paulusplaats 20, 2000
Tel 0493 093329
Former glass factory that is now
a haven for fans of spare ribs. The
Art Nouveau interior, with glass-
work and wooden carvings, along
with the food, helps create a
traditional brasserie atmosphere.
Brasserie Appelmans €
French Map K2
Papenstraatje 1
Tel (03) 226 2022
Excellent brasserie fare – big
salads, pastas, juicy burgers and
very superior, locally grass-fed Minimalistic decor at Vrijmoed, an upscale Belgian restaurant in Ghent
Key to Price Guide see page 150
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 159
The elegant dining area of Le Zoute Zoen in Antwerp with crystal chandeliers and dark wood furniture
SHOPPING
Brussels may traditionally be known for its chocolate. Throw in department stores
high-quality chocolate shops, but this great selling luxury goods and street markets for
shopping city has much more to offer. It bargain-hunters and you have a city that
is fast gaining on fashion capital Antwerp for caters for all shopping styles and budgets.
its own collection of cutting-edge designers, Bruges boasts chocolatiers galore, Ghent
and the city also happens to be the world offers vibrant music and clothes shops and
capital of comic books, with almost as many Antwerp is renowned for its diamond
shops selling comics as there are vending and fashion outlets.
Opening Hours
Most shops open from around
10am to 6pm, but at a few of
the arcades, and in the Rue
Neuve area, there is late-night
shopping on Fridays until
8pm. Apart from the “night
shops” (or corner stores) and
small Carrefour and Delhaize
supermarkets, almost all shops
are closed on Sundays (except
for the shops in the Quartier
Marolles) and many also on
Rue Neuve crowded with shoppers Mondays. The night shop chain
White Nights is good for late-
Where to Shop to Avenue Louise is Rue du night convenience shopping.
Brussels’ Grand Place is Bailli, with its art boutiques,
surrounded by lace vendors, game shops and tea importers.
chocolate shops and souvenir To the west of the Avenue How to Pay
outlets, but just one street lies the Matonge, the There is a noticeable lack of
south is Rue des Éperonniers, city’s most multi-cultural ATMs in and around the Grand
with shops selling vintage area, where street markets Place, and a number of the
clothing, posters and specialist are held on some weekends, smaller shops, newsagents,
teas. For all the major high- and where you can find supermarkets, cafés, and even
street chains, head to Rue skatewear, rare vinyl and some restaurants do not accept
Neuve, a short walk from the vintage denim in the St debit or credit cards. It is wise,
Grand Place. North-west of the Boniface area. It is a pleasant therefore, to ensure that you
Grand Place is Rue Antoine district to wander around always take out sufficient cash
Dansaert, centre of the on a Sunday afternoon. if you are planning to spend the
Bruxellois fashion scene. day in the city centre.
To the south-west of the Visitors from outside the EU
Grand Place is the Rue du are entitled to a refund on VAT
Midi, where you can find of purchases of more than €125
shops selling second-hand in one store. As the sales tax on
records, clothing, comic books, items can be as much as 21 per
stamps and coins. Between cent, this can be a considerable
the Lower and Upper Towns saving. Look out for the “Tax-
lies the antiques district of Free Shopping” logo on a shop
Rue Haute and Rue Blaes in door and request a tax-free
the Quartier Marolles, leading cheque, which you can redeem
into the Place du Grand at customs on your way out
Sablon, where exquisite of the EU.
chocolate shops can be found
alongside high-end florists
and antique shops. Department Stores
South of the Palais du and Arcades
Justice lies Avenue Louise Brussels has a selection of
and Boulevard de Waterloo, shopping malls, though they
where you can find top differ little from those found in
boutiques such as Gucci Renowned Dandoy biscuit shop on Rue other cities. However City 2, at
and Louis Vuitton. Perpendicular au Beurre the northern end of Rue Neuve, is
SHOPPING 161
starting point for any antiques high quality. The three biggest
hunter. It can take time to sort chains in Belgium – Godiva,
through the various boxes Neuhaus and Leonidas – have
of items but there are definitely many outlets throughout the city.
bargains to be found. For pre- While the area around the
sorted antiques, head instead for Grand Place has many chocolate
the more expensive market in shops, it is worth visiting the Place
the Place du Grand Sablon du Grand Sablon to find La
(weekends only). Maison Wittamer, a celebrated
family-run patisserie and
chocolatier, and also the flagship
Fashion shop of Pierre Marcolini, maker
Though Antwerp has long of exquistely designed chocolates
been regarded as Belgium’s and a pioneer in careful cocoa-
international fashion centre, bean sourcing. Look out too for
these days it is the capital city the torréfacteur-chocolatier
itself that is creating a stir. Frederic Blondeel in the adjacent
International high street names on the Rue Downtown’s Rue Antoine Rue de la Paille, or at his original
Neuve, Brusssels Dansaert (and its continuation workshop in the Quai aux Briques
into Rue Lepage) is at the heart (near Place Sainte-Catherine)
host to the exhaustive French of Brussels’ thriving fashion
book and CD emporium Fnac industry, and the principal
and the Belgian department outlet remains Stijl. Since 1984, Biscuits
store Inno. Further south on the it has sold the work of fashion Maison Dandoy, established in
same street lies Hema, graduates from the Antwerp Art 1829, is Brussels’ most cele-
a Dutch low-cost store, Academy such as Dries van brated biscuit shop, famed for
selling everything from clothes Noten, and still offers the its exquisite if unflamboyant
to kitchen utensils. Closer to best wares produced sablés, palets, macarons and
the Grand Place is Anspach by domestic talent. florentines. The beautiful little
Shopping, which includes a Further down the street, shop in the Rue au Beurre, near
casino, concert hall, peruse the beautiful the Grand Place, has been its
restaurant, a hotel and knitwear of Annemie home from 1858, but Dandoy
upmarket shopping. Verbeke, and Martin also has outlets in Brussels and
Possibly the most Margiela’s shop in Rue beyond – even Tokyo.
impressive collection of de Flandre, which
shops is the delightful offers the apparel of one
Galéries Saint-Hubert, an of Belgium’s most talked Beer
opulent 19th-century covered about designers. On Avenue Having fallen in love with
arcade – continental Louise, check out Belgium’s beers, you may want
Europe’s first – housing a A Dries van Brussels’ trendiest hat to take a few bottles home
host of upscale outlets. Noten design designer, Elvis Pompilio. with you. Most supermarkets,
such as Delhaize, Carrefour,
GB and Match, have quite
Markets and Antiques Chocolates comprehensive selections of
Brussels is blessed with a range of There are more than 80 many of the country’s finest
markets. Most weekends you can chocolatiers listed in the Brussels beers. However, for rarer finds –
find a “brocante” – a glorified car phone book – not including as well as appropriate glasses
boot sale combined with street franchise outlets – almost all of for each beer, gift boxes and
party – somewhere in the city.
These are listed in most of the
city’s free events magazines, as
are the various farmers’ markets
found across the city. Cheapest
and most extensive of the
traditional markets is the Marché
du Midi (Sundays 6am to 1pm),
near the Gare du Midi, which
reflects the tastes of the area’s
North African community.
The eclectic Marolles Marché
aux Puces (flea market) in Place
du Jeu de Balles (daily 6am to
2pm, but best at weekends)
dates back to 1873 and is the Browsers at the Marolles flea market
162 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
or Spegelaere in Ezelstraat.
Among Bruges’ most cherished
shops is Rombaux, which has
been selling classical records
and sheet music for three
generations and now has a
huge range of music CDs.
Belgian beer lovers will enjoy
The Bottle Shop, which stocks
over 600 labels, plus glasses.
Ghent
Ghent is a university town, so it
has a high number of record
Brüsel, one of Brussels’ many comic bookshops stores, streetwear outlets and
second-hand shops. The
other beer paraphernalia – visit cheap French second-hand pedestrianized main shopping
Beer Mania in Ixelles where you bookstore, has a number of area, the Veldstraat, also has all
can try the beer before you buy outlets in the city. the typical chain stores. For
it. Also recommended are De upscale second-hand retro
Bier Tempel and Delices et furniture, visit N’Importe
Caprices, both near the Grand Bruges Quoi. Music Mania covers
Place. Specialist beer glasses can The main shopping three floors and
be found at the Marolles flea thoroughfare, Steenstraat, specializes in drum ‘n’
market on Saturday mornings. has many of Belgium’s bass, reggae and jazz.
best known high-street Het Oorcussen is
stores, but the Belgian another outlet for
Comics fashion scene can also Antwerp’s famed fashion
Brussels is the world capital for be explored in the parallel designers, as is the
comic books, and the best of Noordzandstraat and men’s boutique Hot
its many shops is Brüsel, which Geldmuntstraat; Bruges’ Bottle Shop has Couture. Ghent’s
has a vast collection of comics L’Heroïne sells work by a range of beers quirkiest shop may
in French, Dutch and English; it a number of Antwerp’s be Vve Tierenteyn-
also has a gallery of framed famed young designers. Verlent, a picturesque
original art for sale on the second Bruges has more than 70 delicatessen dating back to
floor. In Rue des Renards is chocolate shops – although 1858. The mustard sold here was
Utopia, which leans towards locals will tell you that only first concocted by a Madame
American superhero strips and about ten of them are any Tierenteyn-Verlent in 1790.
science fiction but also has a good. The familiar brands
selection of Japanese anime Godiva, Neuhaus and Leonidas
titles. La Boutique Tintin is a are here, but it is worth seeking Antwerp
short walk from the Grand out local specialists such as Cutting-edge fashion can be
Place and offers a variety of Dumon in Simon Stevinplein found just a few streets away
Tintin-imprinted knick-knacks. from Antwerp’s main high-street
A more economical bet is the shopping district, the Meir. Dries
well-stocked comic shop on van Noten’s Het Modepaleis
the ground floor of the Comics and Walter van Beirendonck
Art Museum (see pp54–5). and Dirk van Saene at DVS are
all musts for fashionistas. The
Atelier Solarshop, the last
Bookshops word in Antwerp cool, sells
The Brussels outlet of the clothes by designer Jan-Jan
English bookstore, Waterstones, van Essche, along with jewellery
and the friendly, independent and shoes.
store Sterling Books both have Away from the city’s diamond
a wide selection of English- district west of the railway
language books. Nestled among station, modern jewellery
the high-fashion boutiques of outlets can be found in Schutter-
Rue Antoine Dansaert is Passa hofstraat. Try Nadine Wijnants’
Porta, which calls itself a tri- shops for clever but inexpensive
lingual bookstore and “Inter- contemporary pieces from one
national House of Literature”. Het Modepaleis in Antwerp, housing Dries of the country’s most exciting
Bibliopolis, a popular and van Noten’s collections jewellery designers.
SHOPPING 163
DIRECTORY
Department Stijl Delices et Caprices Rombaux
Stores and Rue Antoine Dansaert 74. Rue des Bouchers 68. Mallebergplaats 13.
Arcades Map 1 C2. Map 2 D3.
Tel (050) 332575.
Tel (02) 512 0313. Tel (02) 512 1451.
Anspach Shopping ∑ the-belgian-beer- ∑ rombaux.be
∑ stijl.be
Boulevard Anspach 24. tasting-shop.be
Map 2 D2. Chocolates Ghent
Tel (02) 735 8190. Comics
∑ anspach-brussels.be Frederic Blondeel Het Oorcussen
Quai aux Briques 24. Brüsel Vrijdagmarkt 7.
City 2 Boulevard Anspach 100.
Map 1 C2. Map F1.
Rue Neuve 123. Map 1 C3.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 502 2131. Tel (09) 233 0765.
Tel (02) 511 0809.
Tel (02) 211 4060. ∑ frederic-blondeel.be ∑ oorcussen.be
∑ brusel.com
∑ city2.be Godiva La Boutique Tintin Hot Couture
Fnac Grand Sablon 47–48. Rue de la Colline 13. Onderbergen 29.
City 2, Rue Neuve 123. Map 2 D4. Map 2 D3. Tel (09) 233 7407.
Map 2 D1. Tel (02) 502 9906. Tel (02) 514 5152. ∑ hotco.be
Tel (02) 275 1111. ∑ godivachocolates.eu
Comics Art Museum
∑ fnac.be Music Mania
Leonidas Rue des Sables 20.
Galéries Royales Rue au Beurre 34. Map 2 F5. St. Pietersnieuwstrwat 19.
Saint-Hubert Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 219 1980. Tel (09) 278 2338.
Map 2 D2. Tel (02) 512 8737. ∑ comicscenter.net ∑ musicmaniarecords.
∑ grsh.be ∑ leonidas.com com
Utopia
Hema La Maison Wittamer Rue de Midi 39. N’Importe Quoi
Rue Neuve 13. Place du Grand Sablon 6, Map 1 C5.
Burgstraat 11.
Map 2 D2. 12 & 13. Tel (02) 514 0826.
∑ utopiacomics.be
Map D/E1.
Tel (02) 227 5210. Map 2 D4.
∑ hema.be Tel (09) 223 0617.
Tel (02) 512 3742.
Bookshops ∑ nimportequoi.eu
Inno ∑ wittamer.com
Rue Neuve 111–123. Bibliopolis Vve Tierenteyn-
Neuhaus
Map 2 D2. Rue du Midi 93. Verlent
Galerie de la Reine 25–27.
Tel (02) 211 2111. Map 1 C3. Groentenmarkt 3.
Map 1 C3. Tel (02) 512
∑ inno.be Tel (02) 502 4676.
6359. ∑ neuhaus.be Map E1.
∑ bibliopolis.be
Markets and Tel (09) 225 8336.
Pierre Marcolini Passa Porta
Antiques Rue des Minimes 1. Rue Antoine Dansaert 46.
∑ tierenteyn-verlent.
Map 1 5C. be
Marché du Midi Map 1 C2.
Gare du Midi. Map 1 A5. Tel (02) 514 1206. Tel (02) 502 9460.
∑ marcolini.be ∑ passaporta.be
Antwerp
Marolles Marché aux
Puces Biscuits Sterling Books Atelier Solarshop
Place du Jeu de Balle. Rue de Fossé aux Loups Dambruggestraat 48.
Map 1 C5. Maison Dandoy 23–25. ∑ ateliersolarshop.be
Rue au Beurre 31. Map 2 D2.
Fashion Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 223 6223. DVS
Tel (02) 511 0326. ∑ sterlingbooks.be Schuttershofstraat 9
Annemie Verbeke (1st Floor).
∑ maisondandoy.com Waterstones
Rue Antoine Dansaert 64.
Boulevard Adolphe Max Tel 0488 492814.
Map 1 C2. Beer 71–75. ∑ waltervanbeiren
Tel (02) 511 2171.
Map 2 D1. donck.com
∑ annemieverbeke.be Beer Mania Tel (02) 219 2708.
Elvis Pompilio Chausée de Wavre 174–176. ∑ waterstones.com/ Het Modepaleis
Avenue Louise 437. Map 2 F5. bookshops/Brussels Nationalestraat 16.
Tel (02) 512 8588. Tel (02) 512 1788.
Tel (03) 470 2510.
∑ elvispompilio.com ∑ beermania.be Bruges
∑ driesvannoten.be
Martin Margiela De Bier Tempel The Bottle Shop
Rue Marché aux Herbes 56. Nadine Wijnants
Rue de Flandre 114. Map Wollestraat 13.
1 B1. Tel (02) 223 7520. Map 2 D3. Map B3. Kloosterstraat 26.
∑ maisonmargiela. Tel (02) 502 1906. Tel (050) 349980. Tel (0484) 643303.
com ∑ biertempel.eu ∑ thebottleshop.be ∑ nadinewijnants.be
For Ghent and Bruges map references refer to the inside back cover
164 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT
Lying at at the crossroads of London, Paris, cinephilic population. Ghent’s large student
Amsterdam and Cologne, Brussels benefits population gives the city a lively urban scene
from the best international touring groups and knowingly cool Antwerp, the country’s
passing through the city. In its own right, clubbing and fashion capital, offers a range of
Brussels is one of the top destinations in options in much the same vein as Brussels.
Europe for modern dance and jazz, is host Bruges, although quieter, is equipped with a
to a world-renowned classical musical clutch of cosy pubs and jazz bars in which to
competition, and has a knowledgeable, while away the evening.
Cinema
For the latest blockbuster
films – always in their original
language and never dubbed –
head to the massive Kinepolis
Bruxelles (Laeken), boasting
24 screens (including IMAX).
Two central UGC cineplexes
will also satisfy most
mainstream tastes.
For more intriguing
programmes and ambience,
try the Nova cinema for truly
independent films, the Actors
Studio for foreign and art Latin-inspired Brussels hot spot Mappa Mundo
films, and Cinema Galeries,
which has its own eclectically The Fuse, has earned a Bruges
chosen, month-long summer reputation for top-name Bruges is a real pub-goer’s town
festival, “L’Heure d’été”. For techno and dance DJs. Once more than anything, yet jazz
mainstream films in Art Deco a month it becomes La lovers have plenty to choose
movie palace surrounds, go Demence, a gay night that from, notably the family-friendly
to Movy Club. Tickets cost draws crowds from Germany, art centre De Werf in Werfstraat
from €6 to €7.50. France and the Netherlands and Het Zwart Huis. This
Brussels has a packed (www.lademence.com). friendly bistro puts on live jazz,
agenda of film festivals for Ric’s Boat, an actual boat folk and blues twice monthly on
lovers of a variety of genres turned nightclub, hosts parties Sunday nights.
including fantasy (Brussels and music/dance nights. Les
International Fantastic Film Jeux d’Hiver, in the middle of
Festival, April) and animation the Bois de la Cambre woods, Ghent
(Anima, February). attracts an affluent crowd. Big, For Ghent jazz, the mandatory
bold and occupying a church visit is to Art Nouveau Damberd
in Ixelles, Spirito Brussels is a Jazz Café, which has live jazz on
night club with a difference. Tuesdays. Ghent’s popular
In the Marolles, Cuban disco Hotsy Totsy jazz bar also offers
Havana stays open until 7am occasional stand-up comedy.
at weekends. The country’s most warm-
Check www.noctis.com for spirited festival, De Gentse
up-to-date nightlife listings. Feesten, is a centuries-old
celebration that lasts for ten
days in July. Buskers, street
Music Festivals performers, rock and jazz bands
A definite high point on the compete for the attention
classical music calender is of a lively crowd.
Ars Musica, a festival where
composers often premiere
their works. The festival takes Antwerp
place over several weeks, Antwerp is home to Belgian
Poster for BIFFF film festival, held usually in March. ballet. The Royal Ballet of
annually in April Les Nuits Botanique is a Flanders, founded in 1969,
festival of over a hundred performs both classical and
Clubs and Nightlife concerts, with indie rock, contemporary works. Tickets
Brussels’ bright young things chanson Française and rap start at €15.
start off their weekend in figuring prominently; it takes The city also claims two opera
St Géry, a square of trendy over the Botanique for the houses and some fine theatres
cafés and clubs just off the whole of May. In June, hundreds and jazz venues. Try the
fashion district of Rue Antoine of free concerts are on offer atmospheric De Muze for first-
Dansaert. Formerly a run-down during the Fête de la Musique rate jazz and jam sessions.
quarter surrounding the old festival. In the last weekend of the Clubbers from across the
grain exchange, the area is same month, the biggest pop country flock to Café d’Anvers.
now home to latin-flavoured and rock festival in the country The former church, located in
Mappa Mundo, popular comes to the village of Werchter Antwerp’s red light district, was
Le Roi des Belges and the (15 km/9 miles from Leuven) turned into a house club in 1991.
elegant Gecko Bar. The most when the giant Rock Werchter Petrol Club, meanwhile, blends
renowned club in Brussels, festival takes place. electro, hip-hop and rock.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T 167
DIRECTORY
Opera and Cirque Royale Théâtre Royal du Parc Spirito Brussels
Classical Rue de l’Enseignement 81. Rue de la Loi 3. Rue Stassart 18. Tel 0483
Tel (02) 218 2015. Tel (02) 505 3040. 580697. Map 2 E5.
Belgian National ∑ cirque-royal.org ∑ theatreduparc.be ∑ spiritobrussels.com
Orchestra
Galeries Ravenstein 28. Forest-National
Map 2 E3. Avenue Victor Rousseau Cinema Music Festivals
Tel (02) 552 0460. 208. Tel (03) 400 6970.
Actors Studio Ars Musica
∑ forestnational.be
Palais des Beaux-Arts Petite Rue des Bouchers 16. ∑ arsmusica.be
Rue Ravenstein 23. Halles de Schaerbeek Tel (02) 512 1696.
Rue Royale Sainte-Mairie ∑ actorstudio.be Fête de la Musique
Map 2 E3. Tel (02) 507 ∑ fetedelamusique.be
22. Tel (02) 218 2107.
8200. ∑ bozar.be Anima
∑ halles.be Les Nuits Botanique
Tel (02) 502 7011.
Théâtre de la Monnaie ∑ botanique.be
Kultuur Kaffee ∑ animafestival.be
Place de la Monnaie. Map
Boulevard de la Plaine 2. Brussels International Rock Werchter
2 D2. Tel (02) 229 1211.
∑ lamonnaie.be Tel (02) 629 2326. Festival of Fantastic ∑ rockwerchter.be
∑ kultuurkaffee.be Film
Dance Magasin 4 ∑ bifff.net Bruges
Avenue du Port 51B. Cinema Galeries
Théâtre Les Tanneurs De Werf
Tel (02) 223 3474. Galerie de la Reine 26.
Rue des Tanneurs 75. Werfstraat 108.
∑ magasin4.be Tel (02) 514 7498.
Tel (02) 512 1784. Tel (050) 330529.
Recyclart ∑ galeries.be
∑ lestanneurs.be ∑ dewerf.be
Rue des Ursulines 25. Kinepolis Bruxelles
Jazz Map 1 C4. Tel (02) 502 (Laeken) Het Zwart Huis
5734. ∑ recyclart.be Bruparck, Boulevard du Kuipersstraat 23.
L’Archiduc Tel (050) 691140.
La Tentation Centenaire 20.
Rue Antoine-Dansaert 6. ∑ bistrozwarthuis.be
Rue de Laeken 28. ∑ kinepolis.be
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 512
Tel (02) 223 2275. Movy Club
0652. ∑ archiduc.net
∑ latentation.be
Ghent
Rue des Moines 21.
Brussels Jazz Damberd Jazz Café
VK Club Tel (02) 537 6954.
Marathon
Schoolstraat 76. Korenmarkt 19.
∑ brusselsjazz Nova
Tel (02) 413 0410. Map E2.
marathon.be Rue d’Arenberg 3.
∑ vkconcerts.be Tel (09) 329 5337.
Tel (02) 511 2477.
Flagey
∑ nova-cinema.org De Gentse Feesten
Place Ste Croix. Tel (02) 641 Theatre Tel (09) 269 4600.
1020. ∑ flagey.be
American Theater Clubs and Nightlife ∑ gentsefeesten.stad.
Jazz Station Company gent
Chaussée de Louvain, The Fuse
Rue Waelhem 69a.
193a–195. Tel (02) 733 Rue Blaes 208. Hotsy Totsy
∑ atcbrussels.com
1378. ∑ jazzstation.be Tel (02) 511 9789. Hoogstraat 1.
Brussels Light ∑ fuse.be Map D1–2.
The Music Village Opera Company Tel (09) 224 2012.
Rue des Pierres 50. Map 1 ∑ bloc-brussels.be
Gecko Bar
C3. Tel (02) 513 1345. Place Saint-Géry 16.
Brussels Shakespeare Map 1 C2. Antwerp
Sounds Society
Havana Café d’Anvers
Rue de la Tulipe 28. Map 2 ∑ theatreinbrussels.
Rue de l’Epée 4. Verversrui 15.
F5. Tel (02) 512 9250. com
∑ soundsjazzclub.be Tel (02) 502 1224. . Tel (03) 226 3870.
English Comedy Club ∑ cafe-d-anvers.com
Rue Waelhem 73. ∑ ecc. Les Jeux d’Hiver
Rock, Folk, World theatreinbrussels.com Chemin du Croquet 1. De Muze
and Reggae Tel (02) 649 0864. Melkmarkt 15.
Irish Theatre Co ∑ jeuxdhiver.be
Ancienne Belgique ∑ irishtheatrebrussels. Tel (03) 226 0126.
Mappa Mundo ∑ jazzmuze.be
Boulevard Anspach 110. com
Tel (02) 548 2424. Rue du Pont de la Carpe 2. Petrol Club
Théâtre National
∑ abconcerts.be Tel (02) 514 3555. D’Herbouvillekaai 25.
Boulevard Emile Jacqmain
Beursschouwburg 111–115. Ric’s Boat Tel (03) 226 4963.
A Ortsstraat 20–28. Tel (02) 203 4155. Quai des Péniches 44. ∑ petrolclub.be
Tel (02) 550 0350. ∑ theatrenational.be Tel (0476) 24 0986. Royal Ballet of
∑ beursschouwburg.be ∑ rics-party-boat.com
Théâtre Le Public Flanders
Café Central Rue Braemt 64–70. Le Roi des Belges Kattendijkdok-Westkaai 16.
Rue de Borgval 14. Tel 0800 94444. Rue Jules Van Praet 35. Tel (03) 234 3438.
∑ lecafecentral.com ∑ theatrelepublic.be Tel (02) 513 5116 ∑ operaballet.be
For Ghent and Bruges map references refer to the inside back cover
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Although comfortable with its status as a medical and financial information. Brussels
major political and business centre, Brussels is a very cosmopolitan city, and its residents,
has sometimes struggled with its role as a many of whom are foreigners themselves,
tourist destination. It can be hard to find all are usually charming and friendly, with
but the most obvious sights: the same goes most speaking English. Both the Upper
for inexpensive hotels. The tourist office, and Lower Town can be negotiated on foot,
however, goes out of its way to help travellers and although Brussels’ reputation as a rainy
enjoy the city and provides help with city is overplayed, bring a raincoat in summer
everything from finding hidden sights to and warm clothing for winter.
Customs and Office in Grand Place, costs €38 that well. A simple “goed dag”
Immigration and gives you free access to will do the trick, after which the
Belgium is one of the signa- 25 of the city’s museums, conversation will almost certainly
tories to the 1985 Schengen discounts for some attractions, revert to your own language.
agreement, which means restaurants and shops, and a In Wallonia, on the other hand,
travellers moving from one guide to the city. The tourist there will be almost no Dutch
Schengen country to another office also publishes a variety and little English spoken outside
are not subject to border of maps, guides and tours. the main tourist areas. A useful
controls. However, carry your start would be to look through
passport as there are the Phrase Book on p197.
occasional spot checks, and Language
always carry ID with you. Brussels is officially bilingual,
Britain does not belong which means that everything Opening Hours
to Schengen, so travellers from street signs to bus Most shops and businesses are
coming from the UK must destination boards must be in open Monday to Saturday from
present a valid passport when French and Dutch. The locals are 10am to 6pm. Supermarkets are
entering Belgium. This also also remarkably adept at other usually open from 9am to 8pm.
applies to US, Australian and languages too, and English in For late-night essentials and
Canadian citizens. particular is spoken to an alcohol, “night shops” stay open
British travellers no longer impressive level across much until 1 or 2am. Banks are usually
benefit from duty-free goods, of the city. open weekdays from 9am to
but visitors from non-EU Things become slightly more 1pm and 2 to 4pm.
countries are entitled to a VAT complicated outside Brussels, Many sights are closed on
refund if they spend more than in part due to historical issues Monday. Public museums are
€125 in a single transaction. over language between the usually open Tuesday to Sunday
French and Flemish communi- from 10am to 5pm.
ties. Long-standing resentment
Travel Safety Advice at the dominance of French in
Visitors can get up-to-date Belgium means that initiating a Admission Charges
travel safety information from conversation or ordering in a Most of Brussels’ major
the Foreign and Common- restaurant in French while you attractions charge an entrance
wealth Office in the UK, the are in Flanders doesn’t go down fee, currently around €8–10,
State Department in the US
and the Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade
in Australia.
Tourist Information
The city is rarely crowded, so
you should not have to wait at
major attractions and museums
unless a special event is taking
place. If you are planning to do
extensive sightseeing, the one-
day tram and bus pass or, for
longer stays, a MOBIB travel
card (see p177) is a must. A 72-
hr Brussels Card, available from
the Tourist and Information The sculpture court in the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts in summer
Bicycles for hire at the Grand Place, Brussels
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 171
Responsible Tourism
Awareness of the environment
and local culture is subtly,
yet powerfully felt in Brussels.
Recycling has become second
nature: public litter bins,
scattered across the city, are
colour-coded for different types
of rubbish and supermarkets
all over the capital charge for
using plastic bags.
Every commune has excellent
weekly food markets offering
the best in fresh, local produce.
Two of these markets, at
Place de la Monnaie and the
Visitors taking a break from sightseeing at a pavement café Ateliers des Tanneurs in the
Marolles, offer organic (or “bio”)
though there are often reduc- mobility on everything from vegetables, cheese, bread, fruit,
tions available for students, transport to restaurants and meat and charcuterie. Even
senior citizens and the exhibitions. The Tourist Office the traditional Cantillon
unemployed, while children also provides information Brewery in Anderlecht uses
under 12 usually get in free. and advice about facilities cereal that is 100 per cent
Some museums, such as the within the city. organic for its beer.
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Under the auspices of
de Belgique and the Musée des Slow Food Metropolitan
Instruments de Musique, are Travelling with Children Brussels, a self-styled “convivium”
free to all after 1pm on the first Brussels is one of the most of restaurateurs and food-
Wednesday of each month. child-friendly cities in Europe. producers, regular events are
There are some excellent held that promote the Slow
museums aimed specifically Food movement and support
Tipping at younger children, such as the twin causes of long, lively
A service charge is included in the Musée du Jouet, packed and fun-loving meals, largely
all hotel and restaurant prices. with vintage toys, and the using regional produce, and
A small tip for the chambermaid Musée des Enfants in Ixelles. “eco-gastronomy’”.
and porter should be given Attractions like the Natural
personally to them, or left in Science Museum, Bruparck DIRECTORY
your vacated room. Most diners and the Walibi theme park,
round up the bill or add about just outside the city, will Tourist Information
10 per cent if the service has appeal to older kids. There Tourist and Information
been particularly good. Service are almost always discounts Office of Brussels
is also included in taxi fares, available for children: at the Grand Place 1, 1000 Brussels.
although a 10 per cent tip Musées Royaux des Beaux- Map 2 D3. Tel (02) 513 8940.
is customary. Arts, under-18s are free if ∑ visit.brussels.be
accompanied by an adult, and UK Tourism Flanders
there are price reductions at ∑ visitflanders.com
Travellers with Walibi for kids aged six to 11. US Belgian Tourist Office
Disabilities Children under six have free ∑ visitbelgium.com
The Belgian capital is not the entry to most museums, and
easiest city for the disabled they can travel for free on Travel Safety Advice
traveller to negotiate, but the buses, trams and trains. Australia
authorities have recognized that ∑ dfat.gov.au/smartraveller.
there is significant room for gov.au/
improvement. Most of the more Public Toilets
UK
expensive hotels have some Many public toilets in Brussels, ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-
rooms designed specifically for including those in bars, advice
people with disabilities; there restaurants and even cinemas US
are designated parking spaces and railway stations, have ∑ travel.state.gov/
for disabled drivers and newer attendants, who should be
trams provide wheelchair given 40–50 cents. If they are Travellers with
access, through only 10 metro unmanned, an honour system Disabilities
stations have lifts. The Brussels applies and you’ll be expected Brussels For All
For All website has information to leave the money in a dish at ∑ bruxellespourtous.be
for travellers with reduced the entrance.
172 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Brussels is well suited to both casual and The Eurostar and Thalys high-speed trains
business travellers, with excellent link the city with London, Paris, Amsterdam
connections by air, rail and road. The and Germany, and compare favourably with
increasing political significance of Brussels flying in terms of time. Visitors travelling from
in its role as the heart of Europe has led to Britain can use the Channel Tunnel or a range
greater competition between airlines, with of cross-Channel ferry services if they want to
many operators offering discounted fares. bring their car with them.
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Delta Brussels South P&O Ferries
Tel (800) 241 4141 (US). Charleroi Airport Tel (0800) 130 0030.
Air Canada Tel (0)90 202 490. ∑ poferries.com
Tel (0871) 221 1222 (UK).
Tel (0871) 220 1111 (UK). ∑ charleroi-airport.
∑ aircanada.com ∑ delta.com Arriving by Car
com
British Airways easyJet Eurotunnel
Tel (0344) 493 0787 (UK). ∑ easyjet.com Arriving by Rail Tel 08443 35 35 35.
∑ britishairways.com Belgian & ∑ eurotunnel.com
KLM
Brussels Airlines Tel (020) 7660 0293 (UK). International Railway Arriving by Coach
Tel (02) 723 2345 Information
Tel (1 866) 434 0320
(Belgium). ∑ belgianrail.be Eurolines
(US).
∑ brusselsairlines.com Eurostar Tel (0871) 781 8177.
Tel (61 1) 30 039 2192
Tel 03432 186 186. ∑ eurolines.com
Brussels National (AUS).
Airport Information ∑ klm.com ∑ eurostar.com Megabus
∑ brusselsairport.be Thalys ∑ megabus.com
Flight Information: Lufthansa
Tel (07) 066 7788.
Tel 0900 70000. Tel (0371) 945 9747
∑ thalys.com
Airport Police: (UK).
Tel (02) 709. 6666. ∑ lufthansa.com Arriving by Sea
Customs:
Tel (02) 572 4640. Ryanair DFDS Seaways
Tax Refunds: Tel (0871) 246 0000. Tel (0871) 574 7235.
Tel (02) 578 9330. ∑ ryanair.com ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk
176 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Cycling
Bus at a stop in Brussels city centre Car traffic can be fierce, but
happily the number of cycle
Green Travel Several special tariffs are lanes is ever on the increase, as
Brussels is the perfect place to available, including discounts is the ease with which visitors
reduce your carbon footprint. for young adults aged under can rent a bike. One of the most
The centre is small enough to 26 and seniors, and weekend convenient ways is the Villo
make walking around its tickets, which reduce the price scheme. You can take a Villo
ancient cobbled streets one of by up to 40 per cent. unisex bike by the day or week,
the highlights of any visit, while paying online or at one of the
the use of bicycles is 180 cycle stations across the
encouraged through the Planning your Journey city. Use your credit card for the
imaginative Villo rental scheme If you are seeing Brussels by car, €150 deposit. The bike can be
and kilometres of bicycle lanes. avoid its major roads during parked or returned to any of the
Each September, a popular “car- rush hours, which are weekdays stations. Base rates are €1.60 per
free” day is held, when traffic is from 8 to 9:30am and 5 to 7pm day and €7.90 per week. Rates
banned and pedestrians and as well as Wednesday go up with usage.
cyclists take over the streets. lunchtimes during the school
Brussels also has an excellent year, when there is a half day.
public transport system, with a Tram and bus services run
highly integrated, affordable frequently at peak times and
metro, tram and bus network. are usually not too crowded.
The city is committed to an Eco- However, the small size of
drive scheme, reducing energy Brussels means that walking is
consumption by lowering often a viable option.
speeds on all modes of public
transport and accessing
electricity from renewable Walking in Brussels
sources for trams and metro The short distance between
trains, and the development sights and the interest in
of hybrid and fuel cell engines every corner make central
on its buses. Brussels easy to negotiate
There’s little need for a car on foot. Outside the city
even when you go beyond centre, walking is the only
Brussels. The other main cities way to appreciate the
aren’t that far away and are concentration of Art Nouveau
served by an excellent national buildings on and around Children enjoying the sights of
train network. Square Ambiorix, around the Brussels by bike
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 177
Travelling by Rail
Run by Belgian National Rail
ways (Société Nationale Chemins
The Belgian train network is fast and efficient de Fer Belges/ Belgische
Spoorwegen), Belgium’s train
Travelling by Car limits are reduced to as low as network provides a fast and
After the rather enervating traffic 20 kph in some residential areas economical means of getting
in Brussels, driving in the rest of and near schools. If you break to and from major towns and
Belgium comes as something of down, three motoring organi- cities. As most journeys are fairly
a relief. The motorways are fast, zations should be able to provide short, only light refreshments,
reasonably well maintained and assistance: Touring Club de including good Belgian beers,
toll-free, while major roads are Belgique, Royal Automobile are available on board.
also excellent. Drivers in cities Club de Belgique and Vlaamse Fares for standard second-class
outside the capital tend to be Automobilistenbond in tickets are calculated by distance,
more relaxed, although the
trend in Flanders for car-free city
French/Dutch Place Names
centres can make navigation
through them demanding. The One of the most confusing aspects of travel in Belgium is the
only difficulty most drivers come variation between French and Dutch spellings of town names. On
across is an occasional absence road signs in Brussels, both names are given, while in Flanders only
of clear signs for motorway exits the Dutch and in Wallonia only the French are shown. The following
and junctions, which can list gives main towns:
necessitate taking extra care French Dutch French Dutch
when approaching junctions (in Anvers Antwerpen Malines Mechelen
Flanders, many drivers are Ath Aat Mons Bergen
confused by signs for “Uitrit”. It Bruges Brugge Namur Namen
means exit). Bruxelles Brussel Ostende Oostende
Speed limits are 50 kph (30 Courtrai Kortrijk Saint-Trond Sint-Truiden
mph) in built-up areas, 120 kph Gand Gent Tongres Tongeren
(75 mph) on motorways and Liège Luik Tournai Doornik
dual carriageways and 90 kph (55 Louvain Leuven Ypres Ieper
mph) on all other roads. These
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 179
Specialist Tours
Arau
Boulevard Adolphe Max 55.
Map 1 A2. Tel (02) 219 3345.
∑ arau.org
La Fonderie
Rue Ransfort 27. Tel (02) 410
9950. Industrial heritage,
chocolate and beer walks.
∑ lafonderie.be
Wallonia-Brussels Tourist
Office
∑ opt.be
A long-distance bus in a city suburb in Belgium
180 STREET FINDER
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0 metres 250
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Façade of La Maison des Ducs de Brabant, Grand Place (see pp46–7)
STREET FINDER 181
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186 BRUSSELS STREET FINDER
Ferme, Rue de la
Hoevestraat 3 A1
Grand Hospice, Rue du
Grootgodshuisstraat 1 C1
L Marteau, Rue du
Hamerstraat 3 A2
Fetis, Rue Grand Place L Crickx, Rue Martyrs, Place des 2 D2
Fetisstraat 3 C5 Grote Markt 2 D3 L Crickxstraat 1 A4 Maurice Lemonnier, Blvd
Fiance, Rue de la Grand Sablon, Place du L Mahillon, Ave Maurice Lemonnierlaan 1 B4
Bruidsstraat 2 D1 Grote Zavelplein 2 D4 L Mahillonlaan 4 D1 Meeus, Square de
Fiennes, Rue de Grand Serment, Rue du L Titz, Rue de Meeus Square 2 F4
Fiennesstraat 1 A5 Grand Sermentstraat 1 B2 L Titzstraat 4 D4 Megissiers, Rue des
Fin, Rue Grande Haie, Rue de la Lacomble, Ave Zeemtouwerstraat 1 A3
Finstraat 1 Grote Haagstraat 4 E5 Lacomblelaan 4 E1 Memling, Rue
Flandre, Rue de Grande Ile, Rue de la Laeken, Rue de
Memlingstraat 1 A4
Vlaamsesteenweg 1 B1 Groot Eilandstraat 1 C3 Lakensestraat 1 C1
Ménages, Rue des
Fleuristes, Rue des Gravelines, Rue des Laines, Rue aux
Grevelingenstraat 3 B1 Huishhoudenstraat 1 B5
Bloemistenstraat 1 B5 Wolstraat 2 D5
Gray, Rue Lavoir, Rue de Menapiens, Rue des
Fleurs, Rue aux
Graystraat 3 B5 Wasserrijstraat 1 B5 Menapiensstraat 4 E4
Bloemenstraat 2 D1
Foin, Quai au Gretry, Rue Le Colonne, Rue de Meridien, Rue du
Hooikaai 1 C1 Gretrystraat 2 D2 Kolomstraat 1 A1 Middaglijnstraat 2 F1
Fonsny, Ave Grimberghe, Rue E de Lebeau, Rue Merode, Rue de
Fonsnylaan 1 B5 E de Grimberghestraat 1 A1 Lebeaustraat 2 D4 Merodestraat 1 B5
Fontaine, Rue de la Grisar, Rue Lemmens, Place à 1 A3 Michel Ange, Ave
Fontainestraat 1 B4 Grisarstraat 1 A5 Leonardo de Vinci, R Michel Angelolaan 3 C2
Fosse aux Loups, R du Guildes, Rue des Leonardo de Vincistraat 4 D2 Midi, Blvd du
Wolvengracht 2 D2 Gildenstraat 3 A1 Léopold, Rue Zuidlaan 1 B4
Foulons, Rue des Guimard, Rue Leopoldstraat 2 D2 Midi, Rue du
Voldersstraat 1 B4 Guimardstraat 2 F3 Lepage, Rue Zuidstraat 1 C3
Francart, Rue Lepagestraat 1 B1 Minimes, Rue des
Francartstr 2 F5 H Liberté, Place de la 3 F2 Minimenstraat 1 C5
France, Rue de Ligne, Rue de Miroir, Rue du
Frankrijkstraat 1 A5 Haberman, Rue Lignestraat 2 E2 Spiegelstraat 1 C4
Francs, Rue des Habermanstraat 1 A3 Limnander, Rue Mons, Chaussée de
Frankenstraat 4 E4 Haerne, Rue de Limnanderstraat 1 A4 Bergensesteenweg 1 A3
Franklin, Rue Haernestraat 3 B5 Linthout, Rue de
Hainaut, Quai du Mont des Arts
Franklinstraat 3 C2 Linthoutstraat 4 E2 Kunstberg 2 D3
Fred Pelletier, Rue Henegouwenkaai 1 A2 Liverpool, Rue de
Halles, Rue des Montagne aux Herbes
Fred Pelletierstraat 4 E2 Liverpoolstraat 1 A3 Potagères, Rue
Fripiers, Rue des Hallenstraat 1 C2 Livingstone, Ave
Haute, Rue Warmoesbergstraat 2 D2
Kleerkopersstraat 2 D2 Livingstonelaan 3 B1 Montagne, Rue de la
Hoogstraat 1 C4 Locquenghien, Rue
Froissart, Rue Bergstraat 2 D3
Hectolitre, Rue de l’ Locquenghienstraat 1 B1
Froissartstraat 3 B4
Hectoliterstraat 1 B5 Montgomery, Square
Front, Ave du Loi, Rue de la
Heyvaert, Rue Montgomery Plein 4 F4
Frontlaan 4 E5 Wetstraat 2 F3
Heyvaertstraat 1 A2 Montserrat, Rue de
Fulton, Rue cont 3 A2
Hôpital, Rue de l’ Montserratstraat 1 C5
Fultonstraat 4 D2 Lombard, Rue de
Gasthuisstraat 2 D3 Musin, Rue
Lombardstraat 1 C3
Houblon, Rue du Musinstraat 2 F1
G Hopstraat 1 B2
Louise, Ave
Louizalaan 2 D5
Hydraulique, Rue
G Capiaumont, Rue
Waterkrachtstraat 3 A2
Louise, Place N
G Capiaumontstraat 3 B5 Louizaplein 2 D5
G de Boullion, Rue Louvain, Chaussée de Namur, Rue de
G de Boullionstraat 2 F1 I Leuvensesteenweg 3 A1 Naamsestraat 2 E4
G Gratry, Rue Louvain, Place de Natation, Rue de la
Impératrice, Blvd de l’ Zwemkunststraat 3 B5
G Gratrystraat 4 E2 Leuvenseplein 2 E2
Keizerinlaan 2 D3 Nerviens, Ave des
G Lartigue, Ave Louvain, Rue de
Industrie, Rue de l’
G Lartiguelaan 4 F2 Leuvenseweg 2 F3 Nervierslaan 4 C4
Nijverheidsstraat 2 F4
G Petre, Ave Loxum, Rue de Neuve, Rue
Ixelles, Chaussée d’
G Petrelaan 3 B2 Elsenesteenweg 2 E5 Loksumstraat 2 D3 Nieuwstraat 2 D2
G Tombeur, Rue Luxembourg, Place du Nieuport, Blvd de
G Tombeurstraat 4 D5 Luxemburg Plein 3 B2 Nieuwpoortlaan 1 B1
Gand, Chaussée de J Ninove, Chaussée de
Gentsesteenweg
Gare, Rue de la
1 A1 J de Lalaing, Rue M Ninoofsesteenweg
Niveau, Rue du
1 A2
J de Lalaingstraat 3 A3
Stationstraat 4 E4 J F Kennedy, Ave Madeleine, Rue de la Waterpasstraat 1 A1
Gaulois, Ave des J F Kennedylaan 3 C3 Magdalenasteenweg 2 D3 Nord, Rue du
Gallierslaan 4 D4 J W Wilson, Rue Maelbeek, Ave du Noordstraat 2 F2
Général Henry, Rue J W Wilsonstraat 3 B1 Maalbeeklaan 3 B4 Notre Seigneur, Rue
General Henrystraat 4 D5 Jamar, Blvd Major R Dubreucq, Rue Onsheerstraat 1 C4
Général Leman, Rue Jamarlaan 1 A4 Majoor R Dubreucqstraat 2 F5 Nouveau Marché aux Grains,
General Lemanstraat 3 C4 Jamblinne de Meux, Pl Malines, Rue de
Place du
Georges Henri, Ave Jamblinne de Meux Plain 4 D2 Mechelsestraat 2 D1
Nieuw Graanmarkt 1 B2
Georges Henrilaan 4 F3 Jardin Botanique, Marais, Rue du
Noyer, Rue du
Gérard, Rue Blvd du Broekstraat 2 E2
Notelaarsstraat 4 D2
Gerardstraat 4 E3 Kruidtuinlaan 2 E1 Marché au Charbon, R du
Gheude, Rue Kolenmarkt 1 C3 Noyer, Rue du
Jardins Felix Hap Tuin 3 C5 Notelaarstraat 3 C1
Gheudestraat 1 A4 Jeu de Balle, Place du 1 C5 Marché aux Fromages,
Gillon, Rue Jonniaux, Rue Rue du 2 D3
Gillonstraat 2 F1 Jonniauxstraat 3 C4 Marché aux Herbes, R du O
Gineste, Rue Joseph II, Rue Grasmarkt 2 D3
Ginestestraat 2 E1 Marché aux Poulets, R du Odon, Rue
Jozef II Straat 3 A2
Godecharle, Rue Kiekenmarkt 1 C2 Odonstraat 1 A3
Jourdan, Place
Godecharlestraat 3 A4 Marcq, Rue Onze Novembre, Ave du
Jourdan Plein 3 B4
Goffart, Rue Marcqstraat 1 C1 Elf Novemberlaan 4 D5
Joyeuse Entrée, Ave de la
Goffartstraat 3 A5 Blijde Inkomstlaan 3 C3 Marguerite, Square Ophem, Rue d’
Gouvernement Provisoire, Rue Margereta Square 3 C2 Oppemstraat 1 C1
du Marie José, Ave Orient, Rue de l’
Voorlopig Bewindstraat 2 F2 K Marie Joselaan 4 F2 Morgenlandstraat 3 B5
Grand Cerf, Rue du Keyenveld, Rue Marie-Louise, Square Otlet, Rue
Grotehertstraat 2 D5 Keyenveldstraat 2 E5 Maria-Louiza Square 3 B2 Otletstraat 1 A4
Grand Duc, Rue Knapen, Rue Mariniers, Rue des Oultremont, Rue d’
Groothertogstraat 3 C5 Knapenstraat 4 F2 Schippersstraat 1 B1 Oultremontstraat 4 E3
188 BRUSSELS STREET FINDER
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main Autoworld 12, 79 Bruce, Lord 72, 83
entries Autumn in Brussels 30–31 Brueghel, Jan the Elder 20, 21
Avenue Louise 87 Brueghel, Jan the Younger 20
A Aymon brothers 129 Brueghel, Pieter the Elder 20, 21, 50,
Abbaye de la Cambre 87 70, 121, 128
Académie Royale de Belgique 61 B The Fall of Icarus 20
Accommodation 138–43 Baes, Jean 56–7 Brueghel, Pieter the Younger 20, 70
Admission charges 170–71 Baldwin Iron-Arm, Count of Flanders The Census at Bethlehem 66
Adoration of the Magi (Rubens) 123 112 Bruges 10–11, 13, 95, 96, 98–109
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (van Banking 173 entertainment 166, 167
Eyck) 20, 112 Basilique Nationale du Sacré-Coeur Groeningemuseum 104–5
Adornes family 106 18, 89 Gruuthusemuseum 102–3
Air travel 174, 175 The Battle of Pavia (Orley) 26 history 33, 34
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treaty of Battlefields, World War I 134–5 hotels 143
(1748) 37 Baudelaire, Charles 40 lace 26, 27
Alba, Duke d’ 35 Baudouin I, King 41 restaurants 156–7
Albert, Archduke 36, 124 Bavo, St 112 shopping 162, 163
Albert I, King 40, 83 Bed-and-breakfasts 139 Street-by-Street map 98–9
Albert II, King 41, 90 Beer 148–9 walk 108–9
Alechinsky, Pierre 21 Musée Gueuze (Anderlecht) 88–9 Bruges Matin (1302) 101
Allegory of Hope (tapestry) 34 shopping 161–2, 163 Brugse Vrije museum (Bruges) 100
Alley of the Blind Donkey (Bruges) Stella Artois Brewery (Leuven) 130 Brunfaut, Jules 22
99, 100 Béguine movement 57 Bruparck 13, 91
Ambulances 172 Begijnhof (Bruges) 103 Brussels European Film Festival 29
Anderlecht 88–9 Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au- Brussels Rollers 29
Anne of Cleves 64 Béguinage 56, 81 Brussels Short Film Festival 28
Anneessens metro station 21 Groot Begijnhof (Leuven) 131 Brussels Twenty-Kilometre Race 29
The Annunciation (Master of Klein Begijnhof (Ghent) 115 Bruxella 1238 51
Flémalle) 66 Belfort (Bruges) 10, 13, 99, 101 Bruxelles-Capitale 40, 85
Antiques Fair 31 Belfort (Ghent) 13, 111, 113 Bruyn, Guillaume de 47
Antiques shops 161, 163 Belgian Congo 40, 41 Budget travel 139, 144
Antwerp 11, 95, 116–27 Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale Buls, Charles 82, 83
artists 21 89 Bureaux de change 173
entertainment 166, 167 Belgian National Day 30 The Burg (Bruges) 10, 100
Grote Markt 118–19 Beluik der Gefusilleerden (Bruges) Burgundy 34–5
history 33, 36 106 Burgundy, Dukes of 26, 63, 95, 109
hotels 143 BELvue Museum 62 Bury, Pol 21
Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Benelux Union 41 Buses 174, 176, 177, 179
Kunsten 122–3 Berge, Jacques 72 Butte du Lion (Waterloo) 133
map 116–17 Berlaymont building 12, 76 Buuren, David and Alice 88
restaurants 158–9 Bernhardt, Sarah 53
Rubenshuis 124–5 Bevere, Maurice de (Morris) 24, 54 C
shopping 162, 163 Bibliothèque Royale Albert I 83 Caesar, Julius 33, 118, 130
walk 126–7 Bicycles 176 Cafés 144, 145
Antwerp Zoo 126 BIFFF 28 Cambrai, Bishop of 33, 50
Apartments, self-catering 139 The Birthday of Manneken Pis 30 Canadian Forces Memorial 134
Arcades, shopping 160–61, 163 Biscuits, shopping 161, 163 Canals, Antwerp 117
Archers’ guild 107 Bladelin, Pieter 109 Carolingian dynasty 33
Architecture Blanche beers 149 Carpentier, Eugene 56
Brussels’ Best 18–19 Blondeel, Lanceloot 100 Cars 175
Brussels’ Best: Art Nouveau 22–3 Boch, Anna 65 Autoworld 12, 79
Archway, Parc du Cinquantenaire Bois de la Cambre 87 driving in Brussels 176, 177
78, 79 Boniface, St 87 getting around Belgium
Arentshuis Museum (Bruges) 101 Bookshops 162, 163 178, 179
Ars Musica 31 Bordiau, Gédéon 79 see also Tours by car
Art Bortier, Monsieur 74 Castles
Comic strip art 24–5 Bosch, Hieronymus 21, 115 Gaasbeek (Pajottenland) 129
Underground art 21 Last Judgement 104 Het Gravensteen (Ghent) 114
see also Museums and galleries Le Botanique 12, 13, 53 Cathedrals
Art and Industry Expo (1880) 78 Boterhuis (Bruges) 109 Cathedral of Our Lady (Antwerp)
Art Brussels 28 Boulenger, Hippolyte 65 94
Art Nouveau 18, 40, 71 La Bourse 12, 13, 16, 51, 80 Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule
artists 20–21 Bourse metro station 21 12, 13, 19, 74–5, 83
Brussels’ Best 22–3 Bouts, Dirk 20, 70, 130 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal
Horta Museum 86 Brabant, Dukes of 20, 33, 34, 60, 61, (Antwerp) 11, 117, 119, 127
As the Old Sang, the Young Play Pipes 62–3 St Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 11, 13,
(Jordaens) 123 The Brabo Fountain (Antwerp) 118 111, 112
The Assumption of the Virgin Brabo, Silvius 96, 118, 127 St Romboutskathedraal
(Rubens) 67 Brangwyn, Frank 101 (Mechelen) 128
Astrid, Queen 126 Breakfasts 138, 145 St Salvators-Kathedraal (Bruges)
Ath 133 Breuer, Marcel 113 103
ATMs 160, 173 Breydel, Jan 101, 108 see also Churches in Brussels
The Atomium 13, 84, 91 Broodthaers, Marcel 21, 115 Cauchie, Paul 23
Austria 37 Brosella Folk and Jazz Festival 29 Cavell, Edith 106
190 GENERAL INDEX
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Ceulemans at Institut Royal Du Patrimonie Artistique;
people whose assistance contributed to the preparation Charles Dierick at Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée; Anne
of this book: at Gaspard de Wit; Elsge Ganssen and Georges Delcart at
Rubenshuis; Doctor Janssens at the Domaine de Laeken;
Main Contributors Leen de Jong at Koninklijk Museum Voor Schone Kunsten;
Zoë Hewetson is based in London but works in Brussels as Antwerpen; Noel at Leonidas; Chantal Pauwert at Stad
a simultaneous translator for the European Commission. Brugge Stedelijke Musea; Marie-Hélène van Schonbroek at
She is a keen walker and has published a guide to walking Cathédrale Sts Michel et Gudule; Elaine de Wilde and
in Turkey. Sophie van Vliet at Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts.
Philip Lee lives and works in Nottingham. A veteran travel Photography Permissions
writer, he has contributed to numerous Rough Guide and Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the cathedrals,
Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide publications, including the churches, museums, hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries and
Rough Guide to Belgium. He frequently writes on travel for sights too numerous to thank individually for their
British newspapers and magazines. assistance and kind permission to photograph at their
establishments.
Zoë Ross is a London-based writer and editor. She has
worked on several Dorling Kindersley travel guides, and is Placement Key - a–above; b–below/bottom; c–centre; f–far;
now a freelance author. l–left; r–right; t–top.
Sarah Wolff has lived and worked in Brussels for several Works of art have been produced with the permission of
years. An editor and journalist, she works for The Bulletin, the following copyright holders: ©Casterman 24 br, Ted
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196 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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Phrase Book
Tips for Pronouncing French toilet toilette twah-let
French-speaking Belgians, or Walloons, have a throaty, deep accent occupied occupé o-koo-pay
noticeably different from French spoken in France. Despite this, free (vacant) libre leebr
there are few changes in the vocabulary used in spoken and free (no charge) gratuit grah-twee
written language.Consonants at the end of words are mostly silent
and not pronounced. Ch is pronounced sh; th is t; w is v; and r is Making a Telephone Call
rolled gutturally. Ç is pronunced s. I would like to Je voudrais faire un zhuh voo-dreh
place a long- interurbain faire uñ añter-
In Emergency distance oorbañ
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor telephone call
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay I’d like to call Je voudrais faire zhuh voo-dreh
Call a doctor! Appelez un apuh-layun collect un communication faire oon kom-
medecin! medsañ PCV oonikah-syoñ peh-
Call the police! Appelez la police! apuh-lay lah pol-ees seh-veh
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh poñ- I will try again Je vais essayer zhuh vay ess-ay-
brigade! pompiers! peeyay later plus tard eh ploo tar
Where is the Où est le téléphone oo ay luh tehlehfon Can I leave a Est-ce que je peux es-keh zhuh puh
nearest telephone? le plus proche? luh ploo prosh message? laisser un message? les-say uñ meh-
Where is the Où est l’hôpital le oo ay l’opeetal sazh
nearest hospital? plus proche? luh ploo prosh Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo
up a little please? un peu plus fort? par-lay uñ puh
ploo for
Communication Essentials Local call Communication komoonikah-
Yes Oui wee local syoñ low-kal
No Non noñ
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play Shopping
Thank you Merci mer-see
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah How much does C’est combien? say kom-byañ
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor this cost?
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar I would like… Je voudrais... zhuh voo-dray
Goodnight Bonne nuit boñ-swar Do you have… Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo zavay
morning le matin matañ avez…
afternoon l’après-midi l’apreh-meedee I’m just looking Je regarde zhuh ruhgar suhl-
evening le soir swah seulement moñ
yesterday hier eeyehr Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
today aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh
tomorrow demain duhmañ de crédit? kart duh kreh-dee
here ici ee-see Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo zak-
there là bas lah bah travellers’ acceptez les sept-ay lay shek
What? Quel/quelle? kel, kel cheques? chèques de voyage? duh vwayazh
When? Quand? koñ What time do A quelle heure ah kel urr voo zet
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah you open? vous êtes ouvert? oo-ver
Where? Où? oo What time do A quelle heure ah kel urr voo zet
How? Comment? kom-moñ you close? vous êtes fermé? fer-may
This one Celui-ci suhl-wee see
That one Celui-là suhl-wee lah
Useful Phrases expensive cher shehr
How are you? Comment allez vous? kom-moñ talay voo cheap pas cher, bon pah shehr, boñ
Very well, thank Très bien, merci treh byañ, mer-see marché mar-shay
you size, clothes la taille tye
How do you do? Comment ça va? kom-moñ sah vah white blanc bloñ
See you soon A bientôt byañ-toh black noir nwahr
That’s fine Ça va bien Sah vah byañ red rouge roozh
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? ooh ay/soñ yellow jaune zhownh
How far is it to…? Combien de kom-byañ duh green vert vehr
kilomètres d’ici à…? keelo-metr d’ee- blue bleu bluh
see ah
Which way to…? Quelle est la kel ay lah Types of Shops
direction pour…? deer-ek-syoñ poor
Do you speak Parlez-vous Anglais? par-lay voo oñg-lay shop le magasin le maga-zañ
English? bakery la boulangerie booloñ-zhuree
I don’t understand Je ne comprends zhuh nuh kom- bank la banque boñk
pas proñ pah bookshop la librairie lee-brehree
Could you speak Pouvez-vous parlez voo pwee-say par- butcher la boucherie boo-shehree
slowly? plus lentement? lay ploos lontuh- cake shop la pâtisserie patee-sree
moñ chocolate shop le chocolatier shok-oh-lah-tyeh
I’m sorry Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah chip stop/stand la friterie free-tuh-ree
chemist la pharmacie farmah-see
delicatessen la charcuterie shah-koo-tuh-ree
Useful Words department store le grand magasin groñ maga-zañ
big grand groñ fishmonger la poissonerie pwasson-ree
small petit puh-tee greengrocer le marchand des mar-shoñ duh lay-
hot chaud show légumes goom
cold froid frwah hairdresser le coiffeur kwafuhr
good bon boñ market le marché marsh ay
bad mauvais moh-veh newsagent le magasin de maga-zañ duh
enough assez assay journaux/tabac zhoor-no
well bien byañ post office le bureau de poste boo-roh duh pohst
open ouvert oo-ver supermarket le supermarché soo-pehr-marshay
closed fermé fer-meh travel agent l’agence de voyage azhons duh vwayazh
left gauche gohsh
right droite drawht Sightseeing
straight on tout droit too drwaht art gallery la galérie d’art galer-ree dart
near près preh bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
far loin lwañ cathedral la cathédrale katay-dral
up en haut oñ oh church l’église aygleez
down en bas oñbah closed on public fermeture jour fehrmeh-tur zhoor
early tôt toh holidays férié fehree-ay
late tard tar garden le jardin zhah-dañ
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray library la bibliothèque beebleeo-tek
exit la sortie sor-tee museum le musée moo-zay
198 FRENCH PHRASE BOOK