(Robert Reid, Michael Grosberg) Lonely Planet Myan

© Lonely Planet Publications
13
Contents
The Authors 16 Around Twante
Letkhokkon Beach
129
129
Pathein 130
Should You Go? 17 Around Pathein

Chaungtha Beach
135
135
Ngwe Saung 138
Getting Started 27 NORTH OF YANGON
Taukkyan
140
140
Bago (Pegu) 140
Itineraries 30
Southeastern
Snapshot 34 Myanmar 147
Climate 148
Dangers & Annoyances 148
History 35 Getting There & Away
MON STATE
148
148
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149
The Culture 48 Thaton 152
Mottama (Martaban) 153
Mawlamyine (Moulmein) 153
Environment 69 Around Mawlamyine 158
KAYIN STATE 160
Hpa-an 161
Food & Drink 74 TANINTHARYI
(TENASSERIM) DIVISION 162
Dawei (Tavoy) 162
Yangon 84 Myeik (Mergui) 164
History 85 Kawthoung 166
Orientation 85
Information 87 Northeastern
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
89
90
Myanmar 170
Climate 171
Activities 104
Dangers & Annoyances 172
Walking Tour 105
Getting There & Away 172
Courses 106
THAZI TO INLE VIA KALAW 172
Tours 106
Thazi 172
Festivals & Events 106
Kalaw 173
Lonely Planet books Sleeping 106 Aungban 178
provide independent Eating 112 Pindaya 178
advice. Lonely Planet does Drinking 118 Heho 180
not accept advertising in Entertainment 119 Shwenyaung 180
guidebooks, nor do we Shopping 120 INLE LAKE 181
accept payment in Getting There & Away 122 History & Culture 182
exchange for listing or Getting Around 125 Information 183
endorsing any place or Festivals & Events 183
business. Lonely Planet
writers do not accept Around Yangon 126 Nyaungshwe
Around the Lakeshore
183
189
discounts or payments DELTA REGION 127 Around Inle Lake 192
in exchange for positive Thanlyin & Kyauktan 127 KENGTUNG &
coverage of any sort. Twante 128 BORDER AREAS 196
14 CONTENTS
Kengtung (Kyaingtong) 196 Bagan & CENTRAL PLAIN 302

Around Kengtung
Mong La
200
201
Central Myanmar 264 Shwesandaw Paya
Dhammayangyi Pahto
303
303
Tachileik 202 History 266 Sulamani Pahto 304
PYIN U LWIN TO LASHIO 203 Climate 266 Thabeik Hmauk 304
Pyin U Lwin 204 Getting There & Around 266 Pyathada Paya 304
Around Pyin U Lwin 207 BAGAN 266 MYINKABA AREA 304
Kyaukme 209 Orientation 266 Mingalazedi 304
Hsipaw 209 Information 268 Gubyaukgyi 305
Namhsan 213 Boat Trips 268 Manuha Paya 305
Lashio 213 Tours 268 Nan Paya 306
MYITKYINA TO KATHA 217 Getting There & Around 268 Abeyadana Pahto 306
Myitkyina 217 Nyaung U 269 Nagayon 306
Bhamo 220 Old Bagan 273 Somingyi Kyaung 307
Mu-se & Namhkam Valley 221 Myinkaba 275 NEW BAGAN AREA 307
Katha 222 New Bagan Seinnyet Nyima Paya &
(Bagan Myothit) 275 Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307
THE FAR NORTH 224
AROUND BAGAN 277 Lawkananda Paya 307
Putao 224
Mt Popa 277 Ashe (East) & Anauk (West)
Salay 279 Petleik Paya 307
Mandalay 226 Pakokku
Myingyan
280
281
Sittana Paya
SOUTH PLAIN
307
308
History 227
BAGAN TO PYAY 281 Dhammayazika Paya 308
Orientation 227
Magwe 281 Leimyethna Pahto 308
Information 227
Pyay (Prome) 283 Tayok Pye Paya 308
Sights 229
Around Pyay 286 Payathonzu 308
Activities 235
MEIKTILA TO TAUNGOO 287 Thambula Pahto 309
Downtown Walking Tour 235
Meiktila 287 Nandamannya Pahto 309
Mandalay for Children 236
Pyinmana 289 NYAUNG U AREA 309
Festivals & Events 236
Taungoo 290 Shwezigon Paya 309
Sleeping 237
Kyanzittha Umin 310
Eating 238
Drinking
Entertainment
240
240
Temples of Bagan 293 North of Nyaung U 310
History 293
Shopping
Getting There & Away
241
242
How Big is Bagan? 296 Western Myanmar 311
OLD BAGAN 297 People 312
Getting Around 245
Gawdawpalin Pahto 297 Climate 313
Mimalaung Kyaung 297 Danger & Annoyances 313
Around Mandalay 246 Pahtothamya 297 Getting There & Around 314
History 247 Nathlaung Kyaung 297 SOUTHERN RAKHAING 314
Climate 248 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298 Ngapali Beach 314
Getting There & Around 248 Shwegugyi 298 Thandwe 317
ANCIENT CITIES 248 Pitaka Taik 299 Kanthaya 318
Amarapura 248 Palace Sites 299 Taunggok 318
Inwa (Ava) 251 Tharaba Gate 299 NORTHERN RAKHAING 319
Paleik 252 Mahabodhi Paya 299 Sittwe 319
Sagaing 252 Bupaya 299 Mrauk U 322
Mingun 254 NORTH PLAIN 300 Around Mrauk U 328
UPPER SAGAING Ananda Pahto 300 CHIN STATE 328
DISTRICT 256 Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 Tours 329
Monywa 256 Upali Thein 301
Htilominlo Pahto 301
Around Monywa
Shwebo
259
260 Buledi 302 Directory 330
Around Shwebo 262 Gubyauknge 302 Accommodation 330
Kalaymyo 262 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 Activities 332
C O N T E N T S 15
Business Hours 334 Telephone 349 Hitching 365

Children 334 Time 350 Local Transport 365
Climate charts 335 Toilets 350 Pick-up Trucks 366
Courses 335 Tourist Information 350 Tours 366
Customs 336 Visas 351 Train 366
Dangers & Annoyances 336 Volunteering 352
Disabled Travellers
Discount Cards
338
339
Women Travellers 352
Health 369
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
339
340 Transport 354 BEFORE YOU GO
Insurance
369
369
Food 342 GETTING THERE & AWAY 354 Recommended
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 342 Entering the Country 354 Vaccinations 370
Holidays 342 Air 354 Medical Checklist 370
Insurance 342 Land 357 Internet Resources 371
Internet Access 342 River & Sea 358 Further Reading 371
Legal Matters 343 Tours 358 In Transit 371
Maps 343 GETTING AROUND 358 Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT) 371
Money 344 Air 358
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 371
Photography & Video 346 Bicycle 360
IN MYANMAR 372
Post 346 Boat 361
Availability of Health Care
Shopping 346 Bus 363 & Costs 372
Solo Travellers 349 Car & Motorcycle 364 Infectious Diseases 372
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 374
Environmental Hazards 375
Regional Map Contents Travelling With Children

Women’s Health
Traditional Medicine
377
377
377
Language 379
Northeastern
Myanmar p171
Glossary 386
Around
Behind the Scenes 389
Mandalay Mandalay
p247 p228
Western
Myanmar
p312 Bagan & Central
Mandalay
World Time Zones 392
p265
Index 395
Around
Yangon
p127
Yangon
p90
Map Legend 404
Southeastern
Myanmar p149
17
Should You Go?

We think it’s too early for either tourists or investment or aid...
As long as new money comes in, the Slorc is under less and less
incentive to change.
Aung San Suu Kyi, 1995
I have so much respect for the Lady [Suu Kyi], but I disagree with
her. If I had a chance to argue with her, I know she’d listen. A 100%
boycott’s not possible.
pro-NLD Yangon resident, 2004
‘Should I go?’ is a question that Lonely Planet believes that all prospective
travellers to Myanmar must ask, and answer, before setting foot in the ‘As long as
country. The travel boycott – initiated by the Nobel Laureate for Peace, new money
Aung San Suu Kyi, and endorsed by the British prime minister, Tony Blair,
and some tour groups – began in 1996. Since then, much of the travel- and comes in,
business-related world has been debating the pros and cons of the boycott the Slorc is
amid an often-heated face-off. This section is a small stepping stone to under less
understanding the main issues raised by both sides of the argument.
As part of the debate, Lonely Planet is often asked why we publish and less
this book. We believe that travel is one of the most powerful forces for incentive to
tolerance, understanding and democracy the world possesses. We feel, change’
in the case of Myanmar, it is particularly important to maintain an up-
dated resource that helps those who do decide to go maximise the money
reaching local hands in this impoverished country, while minimising the
money reaching the ruling military junta. Aung Sang Suu Kyi said in 1995
that Myanmar wasn’t ready for tourism. Yet she also noted that ‘Tourists
can open up the world to the people of Burma just as the people of Burma
can open up the eyes of tourists to the situation in their own country if
they’re interested in looking’. We agree.
THE BOYCOTT SPLIT

Myanmar is a land of mystifying contradictions, a country whose spirited
people have withstood centuries of oppression, from Kublai Khan to King
George VI to the present military regime. ‘I disagree
Myanmar remains under the rule of the State Peace & Development with her. If I
Council (SPDC), formerly known as the State Law & Order Restoration
Council (Slorc), an abominable military junta that has run Myanmar since had a chance
1962. After widespread peaceful protests in 1987 and 1988 and interna- to argue
tional pressure (see p43), the military conceded and announced there with her, I
would be an election in 1990. Despite the 1989 arrest of a key member of
the National League for Democracy (NLD), Aung San Suu Kyi, the NLD know she’d
won a remarkable 82% of the vote. The junta never handed over power. listen’
WHY A BOYCOTT?
In the mid-1990s, the military regime readied the country for ‘Visit
Myanmar Year 1996’, a massive campaign they believed could bring legit-
imacy to the battered government and a growing source of income. The
government used forced labour to build up its tourism infrastructure –
rebuilding tourist sites such as Mandalay Palace, re-paving roads, and
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building airports and runways. Some say hundreds of thousands of the ‘situation has not changed’. That year, Suu Kyi told the BBC that ‘the
locals were uprooted from their homes and sent to ‘new towns’ dozens people of Burma, in general, do not depend on...foreign visitors to bring
of kilometres outside city centres (evident in Yangon, Mandalay and Old them information’; instead they obtain knowledge of the international
Bagan). The government, meanwhile, eased travel restrictions; from the world via incoming radio broadcasts such as BBC, Radio Free Asia and
24-hour visa and the seven-day visa, to 14 days in 1990, and then 28 days Democratic Voice of Burma.
in 1994. The government’s tourism campaign ushered in the tourism One of Suu Kyi’s chief concerns of that time was that the country
boycott. Eventually, the campaign had to be delayed by a few months wasn’t ready for tourism because locals, so long isolated and crippled
and the government revised its goal from 500,000 tourists to 200,000, economically, hadn’t ‘had a chance to develop self-confidence’, as she
but eventually even that mark was not reached. told Alan Clements in The Voice of Hope (1997). ‘At such a time it is too
easy for young people to grab at foreign ideas and values, simply because
THE DEBATE they think foreigners are better...and more successful.’
Activist groups outside Myanmar – some made up of exiled Burmese – Despite her stance, Suu Kyi has noted the positive side of travel to Myan-
fight for international pressure to be applied to force the military junta to mar as well. She said during an interview in Yangon in 1995, ‘Visitors to
transfer power to the NLD. However, some supporters of the NLD stand the country can be useful, depending on what they do, or how they go
on opposite sides regarding how the boycott should be applied. There are about it.’ But she also expressed concern that tourists who ‘go around in
really two debates raging at present – one regarding tourism and the other air-conditioned taxis’ don’t see anything that’s going on in the country.
concerning business dealings or aid. She understood that, boycott or not, tourists will come, and even sug-
gested that ‘an alternative guide’ be produced. We found this sentiment
Aung San Suu Kyi echoed to us at Lonely Planet in 2005 by members of the proboycott Open Some quotes of
For many would-be travellers the most compelling reason to support a Society Institute’s Burma Project, and the pro-informed (ie protourism) Myanmar residents
total boycott is that Aung San Suu Kyi says to, and most boycott support- organisation Voices for Burma. The London-based Burma Action Group presented in this chapter,
ers frequently quote her. Most of what she’s said on the issue dates from (now called Burma Campaign UK) actually published Burma: The Alter- and throughout the
1995 or 1996 – not surprising as, since before the 1990 election, she’s spent native Guide in tandem with the government’s campaign, but the guide book, are not attributed
most of the time under arrest and unable to make statements. In 1995 Suu was more a detailed manifesto against any tourism, without any practical in order to protect their
Kyi asked travellers to ‘visit us later’, insisting that visiting at that time information for those who did go. identity.
was ‘tantamount to condoning the regime’. In 2002 she reportedly said
Activist Groups
Many proboycott activists interpret any visitor – whether they are either
TO GO OR NOT TO GO? part of a package-tour group, a backpacker staying in US$4 guesthouses,
Reasons Not to Go or meditating in a monastery – as a symbolic and financial endorsement
of the military junta, which built some tourist infrastructure and services
Aung San Suu Kyi has asked tourists not to come.
off the backs of many locals through forced labour and prison labour.
The government used forced labour to develop tourist-related sights and services. Some estimates put the figure of forced labourers as over one million,
International tourists can be seen as a stamp of approval for the Myanmar government. though in 2005 Amnesty International reported that forced labour, in
general, had decreased over the last decade. Burma Campaign UK states
It’s impossible to visit without some money going to the military junta (eg US$20 for a visa,
on its website, ‘Nowhere else in the world have human rights abuses
US$10 departure fee, 7% to 10% tax on services and purchases).
and tourism been so closely linked.’ Also the group doubts that travel-
Activists claim that tourism dollars help fuel government repression directly. lers can make much of a contribution to the wellbeing of locals, saying
The government forbids travel to many areas, particularly in areas inhabited by minority only a small percentage of locals ever come in contact with travellers.
groups, due to unrest.
BURMA OR MYANMAR?
Reasons to Go
While questions are being raised on whether to visit, the very name of the country is another
The vast majority of locals want you to come. doozey. In 1989 the government changed the official name from the Union of Burma to the
Tourism remains one of the few industries accessible by ordinary locals that offers an income Union of Myanmar. The country has in fact been called ‘Myanma’ in local parlance since, at least,
and communication with the outside world. the time of Marco Polo in the 13th century. The term ‘Burma’ is a British-made moniker, based
Human-rights violations are less likely to occur in areas where international visitors are on the majority ethnic group, the Bamar (or Burmans or Burmese). Essentially all prodemocracy
present. groups outside the country – as well as the NLD – still call the country Burma. The government,
at least on the surface, prefers ‘Myanmar’ because it’s more inclusive of the many ethnic groups.
The government has stopped requiring that foreigners change US$200 into Burmese notes More importantly, it distances the country from the colonial period. At the same time as the
upon arrival. country was renamed Myanmar, many town and street names were changed as well (eg Rangoon
The majority (possibly over 80%) of a careful independent traveller’s expenses goes to the returned to its precolonial name of Yangon).
private sector. In this book we use ‘Myanmar’ for the country (in line with the locals’ usage and preference),
If tourists stop coming, the government may step up the oppression of its people. and ‘Burmese’ for the language, food and the Bamar people.
20 T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T • • T h e D e b a t e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T • • T o u r i s m & t h e E c o n o m y 21
Other groups against tourism suggest that the government’s restrictions

on travel prevent access to trouble spots – places where insurgents fight ACTIVIST WEBSITES
the military, where forced labour lingers, and where poverty is strongest. Many groups have websites that outline Myanmar’s prodemocracy movement as well as provide
Some locals worry that travellers who only see Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya details on human-rights abuses sustained since 1988.
will leave thinking the ‘whole country is covered in gold’. Amnesty International (www.amnesty.org) Regular updates on the status of 1300 political
Proponents for travel point out that the majority of locals want independ- prisoners behind bars.
ent international visitors – and travellers hear this often during hushed
Burma Campaign UK (www.burmacampaign.org.uk) One of the more outspoken proboycott
conversations in temples, taxis and teashops. Also, protravel advocates
groups, which has written numerous articles.
point out that the probability of human-rights abuse shrivels in places that
foreigners frequent (one activist group suggests that tourists should expand Burma Project (www.burmaproject.org) It is proboycott, but stops short of saying travellers fuel
the international influence by focusing on off-the-beaten-track areas). A human-rights abuses; its website has many links to other sites.
popular question asked by some, is why antitourism advocates don’t include Free Burma Coalition (www.freeburmacoalition.org) Reversed its proboycott stance in 2003; the
Tibet, Vietnam, Cuba, China (particularly) and even the USA in a boycott. online blog has many updates and links to Burma-related news and opinions.
Tibet shares some similarities with Myanmar – though travel in Tibet is
Voices for Burma (www.voicesforburma.org) Protourism, with many suggestions on how best to visit.
actually more restricted – as the Chinese hope to gain legitimacy to their
occupation of that country through positive reports from tourists. Tibet’s
spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama, however, encourages travellers to come and
interact with the locals there. Canadian writer Karen Connelly took a pas- because we couldn’t catch all the mice.’ In 2004, Moustache Brothers’
sive role with Myanmar: ‘I just want to write about what I see here. That’s leader Lu Zaw told us of his comedy troupe (p241), two-thirds of whom
all. That will do whatever it can do.’ Thai monk Mettanando Bhikkhu behave been imprisoned for political jokes: ‘We are alive because of tourists.
lieves first-hand accounts can be powerful catalysts for change, as he wrote We want tourists to come. We want a Trojan horse.’
‘More in the Bangkok Post in 2005: ‘Tourists to Burma...are natural witnesses to Exiled author Pascal Khoo Thwe, who narrowly escaped the clutches of
isolation events in that country, the eyes and ears through which the world is able to the army via Thailand following the 1988 demonstrations, told us in 2004,
monitor the kinds of abuse that Tony Blair wants to sanction.’ ‘I follow the policies of Aung San Suu Kyi, but if travellers feel they can
won’t fix the Residents of other impoverished or boycotted nations provide an inter- help, they should go...It’s been many years; we need people to really work –
problems esting perspective. A local in Cambodia pleaded with one Lonely Planet now – rather than keep arguing [about the boycott]’. Another opinion: ‘If the
and author, ‘Please don’t boycott Burma. We know what that’s like. The poor country
get poorer and the rich keep driving in their fancy cars.’ A Romanian film- From the point of view of ordinary Myanmar youth, boycott methods
sanctions maker says that the boycott is a ‘no brainer’, recalling the days when he don’t work any more and they don’t affect the dictators much directly. becomes
push us craved outside contacts during Ceaucescu’s dictatorship in the 1980s. If the country becomes isolated, can any exiled politician promise isolated, can
backwards’ While most Myanmar people love ‘the Lady’, many offer varied opinions that we’ll be free? any exiled
on the issue. A one-time aide to Suu Kyi, who spent three years in Insein Member of the anonymous rap group Myanmar for
Prison in Yangon, wrote in the Far Eastern Economic Review in 1998: Future Generations (MFG), 2005 politician
promise
[Suu Kyi’s] approach has been highly moral and uncompromising, TOURISM & THE ECONOMY that we’ll be
catching the imagination of the outside world. Unfortunately, it has Travellers’ Input
come at a real price for the rest of us...More isolation won’t fix the Some observers have wondered what makes a bigger impact: the esti- free?’
problems and [business, tourism, aid] sanctions push us backward... mated US$200 spent per backpacker, for example, that feeds mostly into
We need to be a part of the world. the private sector on a two-week trip, or the US$65 of this amount that
Ma Thangeni goes to the government through taxes, entry fees and the cost of a visa?
It’s a difficult conclusion to make. The CIA reports Myanmar’s GDP per
Dr Zarni, the director of the Free Burma Coalition and a one-time pro- capita in 2003 was US$150 per month. The majority of locals are happy
boycott activist, did an about-face in 2003 on this issue. On his online to get half that; in 2005 the Economist suggested that rural households
blog, he described the ‘absurdity and meaningless of further isolating in Shan State earned no more than US$400 per year.
and punishing the country’. He said, ‘We are burning down the barn Aside from the resource leases, building permits and bribes that are
all part of doing business in Myanmar, the government does get some
money directly from tourists. For starters, it’s US$20 for a tourist visa,
THE REGIME’S LINE US$10 for departure tax, plus the 7% tax collected by restaurants, and
For a fascinating glimpse into the world of propaganda (if not outright self-deception), check 10% tax from guesthouses and hotels. Entry fees to some sights and the
out the government’s take on Aung San Suu Kyi and the NLD. On the ‘information sheet’ link use of some services (see the list on p23) add more to the pot. One of
on www.myanmar.com, there are frequent dicta updated – labelled as ‘The Truth’ – to see. In the ‘least ambiguous links’ between tourism funding the government,
their 70-page Political Situation of Myanmar and the Role of the Region, available in Yangon, the as described by proboycott author Jeff Greenwald, was the requirement
government defends its motto (‘everybody’s friend, but nobody’s ally’) and makes an effort to that foreigners exchange US$200 into local currency upon arrival in the
blame the deaths following the 1988 marches (see p43) on the NLD. country. Fortunately, the government stopped this practice in 2003. Of
course, there are some bills to pay too. But sometimes the government
22 T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T • • T o u r i s m & t h e E c o n o m y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T • • G o v e r n m e n t Fe e s 23
TOURISM NUMBERS GOVERNMENT FEES

In 1994, 62,000 tourists visited Myanmar (including family visits and business travellers). Entry Fees
In 2004, 202,000 tourists visited Myanmar. Many places in Myanmar are free to enter and explore, but some places – including whole towns –
require the payment of fees, as dictated by the Ministry of Hotels & Tourism in Yangon or local
About 61% of Myanmar’s tourists come from Asian countries (the top four being nationals of
authorities. But, although fees go directly to the government, the situation is often not black
Thailand, Taiwan, Japan and China).
and white; in some places, such as Bagan or Mrauk U, the fees are split with the apparently
Approximately 34% of Myanmar’s tourists travel independently, while 27% come on package earnest Department of Archaeology, the only present means of preserving ancient temples and
tours. artwork. Here are the main fees:
In 2003, US$116 million was brought into the country from ‘tourism’ (US$17 million more Alaungpaya Palace, Shwebo (K50)
than in 2002). Amarapura See Mandalay Archaeological Zone
About US$25 million of 2003’s tourism revenue came from Western independent and Bagan Archaeological Zone (US$10)
package tourists. Bago sites (US$10)
Chin State Must take MTT (government) tour; two-day tour US$300 per person
In general about 12% of the money collected by the private sector from tourism funds the
Golden Rock, Kyaiktiyo (US$6)
regime, according to the Minister for Hotels & Tourism (source: Altsean, 2003) – this equates to
potentially US$3 million in 2003 (ie 12% of US$25 million) coming from Western independent Hpo Win Daung Caves, near Monywa (US$2)
and package tourists. Inle Lake Zone (US$3)
Inwa See Mandalay Archaeological Zone
Kachin State Cultural Museum, Myitkyina (US$2)
doesn’t always get a windfall; insiders have suggested that ticket fares for Khamti Must take MTT tour; US$670/920 from Mandalay/Yangon
Myanma Airways are unlikely to cover the government airlines’ costs. Mandalay Archaeological Zone (US$10) Includes entry to Inwa and, technically, Amarapura; see p229
Looking at other government sources of revenue as a comparison, tour- Mingun (US$3) Includes Sagaing Hill
Read www.icftu
ism is something of a general store among skyscrapers. It’s not known Mogok Must take MTT tour; US300
.org/displaydocument
exactly what the government receives or spends in total – on foreign Mon Cultural Museum, Mawlamyine (US$2)
.asp?Index=991221173
investment, tourism, oil and illicit trade (in gems, timber, heroin) across Mrauk U (US$10)
&Language=EN for an
its borders. Myanmar earned US$655 million in 2003 in gas exports alone Putao Must pay government fee
overview on how the
(according to Doing Business in Burma), and tourism drew US$116 mil- Rakhaing State Cultural Museum, Sittwe (US$2)
government’s ‘tentacles’
lion in 2003 (including the contributions of nearly two in five visitors Sagaing Hill (US$3) Includes Mingun
poke into most facets of
who were business travellers or there to visit families). Comparatively,
the local economy. Shwedagon Paya, Yangon (US$5)
Myanmar is last among Southeast Asian countries in terms of the number
Taungoo elephant camp Involves some government fees
of tourists, with roughly half of Laos’ draw and 1.4% of Thailand’s.
Thanboddhay Paya, near Monywa (US$3)
Foreign Businesses Thayekhittaya ruins, near Pyay (US$4)
Following Aung San Suu Kyi’s third arrest in 2003, the USA and EU Yangon museums (US$2 to US$5)
enforced full sanctions against Myanmar, prohibiting trade. But – unlike Youqson Kyaung, Salay (US$3)
apartheid-era South Africa, which Tony Blair has likened Myanmar to –
Myanmar’s neighbours didn’t follow suit, thus providing ‘leaky borders’ to Services
the flow of cash and goods. If anyone or anything sustains the government, Apart from the 7% tax on restaurants and 10% on accommodation, the government benefits
it’s China. Dr Mohan Malik of the Asia-Pacific Center for Security Studies from each of the following services:
estimates that China controls 60% of the Myanmar economy; the annual Beer Myanmar Beer is a joint-venture operation
trade exchange is in excess of US$1 billion. For example, China pumped City buses From K5 a ride
in US$200 million to improve Myanmar’s infrastructure, not for tourism Golf Many courses are government controlled
but with eyes on Myanmar’s offshore oil reserves. Inland Water Transport (IWT) Government ferries
Yet sly General Than Shwe played the flirt by making the first Myanmar
Internet As with electricity, post and telephone, the dial-up service is government-controlled; the broadband
head-of-state visit to India in 25 years, the week after the ousting of pro-
Bagan Cybertech was formerly run by Khin Nyunt’s son
China prime minister Khin Nyunt in 2004. A few months later, Myanmar
Liquor licenses Require steeper payments than alcohol-free restaurants have to pay
and Bangladesh signed an agreement to build a highway, ultimately to link
Yangon with India (with whom Myanmar has already traded half a billion Myanma Airways Dodgy domestic airline
dollars). Thailand, Singapore and Japan are also dollar-sign chums. Myanma Railways
Some critics point out that while sanctions against North Korea, Cuba, Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT) Government-run tourist information service
Haiti and Iraq have hurt these countries’ economies – in no instance have Newspapers Myanmar Times (K500) and New Light of Myanmar
sanctions (on their own) changed a regime. Jai Singh summed it up in an Post & Telephone All calls and faxes run by Ministry of Post & Telecommunications; international calls of US$5
article on Slate (www.slate.com) in 2005, ‘We’re stuck with Washington or US$6 per minute
and Brussels trying one approach and much of Asia trying the other’.
24 I F Y O U G O • • Av o i d G o v e r n m e n t H o t e l s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I F Y O U G O • • D o n ’ t C o m p r o m i s e L o c a l s 25
IF YOU GO WHERE THE MONEY GOES

Travel costs (and other economic transactions) in Myanmar come in many forms. This table gives
estimated average breakdowns of how much the government actually gets from each type of
Don’t come in with your camera and take only pictures. We don’t traveller. Government taxes such as a visa, fees and a taxes on all purchases have been factored
need that kind of tourist. Talk to those who want to talk. Let them into these figures.
know of the conditions of your life.
Pro-NLD Yangon resident, 2004 Amount Type of economic input
of money
Lonely Planet suggests that visitors to Myanmar should try to maximise
‘Don’t come the positive effects of a visit among the general populace, while mini- US$0 The amount the government receives from potential tourists staying at home and reading
in with your mising any financial support of the government. It’s pretty clear that, in about Myanmar
general, the less you spend, the less goes to the government. If you’re
camera and used to five-star comfort, consider settling for a little less when you’re US$65 The part of a shoestringer’s US$250 to US$275 budget over a two-week trip (sticking with family
take only here. We encourage everyone who goes to Myanmar to be an ‘informed guesthouses and public buses, and skipping fees at Shwedagon Paya, Bagan and Inle Lake)
pictures’ tourist’ – read at least a couple books about recent events and look
deeper into the argument. We do not encourage travellers to use a trip US$85 The part of a shoestringer’s US$275 to US$300 budget, as above, but paying government fees at
as an outright vehicle for political change, though. Those who have – by Shwedagon Paya, Bagan and Inle Lake
handing out leaflets – have been arrested; see p337 for more. We also ask
that visitors treat locals with respect and p49 lists some basic do’s and US$150-275 The amount of a traveller’s budget of US$1100 to US$2000 for a two-week trip that includes
don’ts to follow in Myanmar. The following measures outline how best using a hired private car and staying at midrange hotels
to travel in the country.
US$300-500 The amount for a one-week trip – total budget US$2500 and up – staying at higher-priced
AVOID GOVERNMENT HOTELS hotels, taking several guided day trips, eating at hotels and taking three domestic flights
As much as possible, government-run hotels and higher-priced joint-
venture hotels are flagged throughout this book. See p332 for more on US$450 The part going to the government from a MTT-guided, three-day trip to restricted Chin State
how hotels work in Myanmar. Here are ways to further help you identify from Bagan
government-run hotels:
Government hotels are often named after the city or sight (eg Sittway US$500 & up The amount from a tourist on a seven- to 12-day luxury cruise on the Ayeyarwady – at a cost of
Hotel, Mrauk U Hotel, Kyaiktiyo Hotel). US$3000 to US$4000
Private hotels are less likely to have a Myanmar flag flying in front.
Staff at government hotels are pretty upfront about ownership if you US$25 million The total amount spent that reached both the government and private sources, by Western
ask. international package-tour and independent tourists in 2003
Cheaper guesthouses and most midrange hotels are less likely to have
government ties than more plush locally run hotels or joint-venture US$655 million The amount the government raked in from natural gas exports in 2003 (source: International
hotels. Confederation of Free Trade Unions, 2005)
SPREAD YOUR MONEY

Critics of independent travel argue that travellers’ spending usually con- DON’T COMPROMISE LOCALS
gregates at select places, even if those spots are privately run. Familiarity In a country that imprisons its people for disagreeing with the gov-
can be reassuring – such as your trishaw driver buddy, or the plate of ernment’s line, or sends them to forced labour camps, travellers need
noodles that didn’t get you sick – but try to mix it up a bit. to ensure that they don’t behave in a way that will lead to locals being
Don’t buy all of your needs (bed, taxi, guide, rice) from one source. compromised in the eyes of the junta.
Be conscious that behind-the-scenes commissions are being paid on Don’t raise political questions and issues in inappropriate situations;
most things you pay for when in the company of a driver or guide; let a local direct the conversation and don’t come out with something
it doesn’t always affect your price, but if all travellers follow the same like ‘did you protest against the government?’ anywhere where there
lead, the benefits only go to a select few; see p321 for an example. are other people – even if you are riding on a trishaw. One exiled
Minimise expenses that go to foreign-operated businesses. person suggested, ‘If you have questions for the NLD, don’t ask in the
Mix up locations where you catch taxis and trishaws – and try to take country – [the locals] could get imprisoned; try to ask NLD outside
ones from guys not lingering outside tourist areas. Burma.’
Try to eat at different family restaurants; if you’re staying at a hotel, Asking a taxi driver to take you by Aung San Suu Kyi’s house or a NLD
eat out often; eg in Ngapali Beach, local restaurants are just across the office could implicate him.
road from the beach and hotels. Exercise care in handing over anything to a local that could carry
Either buy handicrafts directly from the artisans, or, if not, don’t get political overtones (such as the New Yorker or the Economist or
all your souvenirs from one private shop. Myanmar-related books).
26 I F Y O U G O • • D I Y v s Pa c k a g e T o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIY VS PACKAGE TOURS

If you want to go, go. I just try to discourage people from taking
package tours. Nothing goes to the people. I encourage people to
go individually.
Pascal Khoo Thwe, author of Land of the Green Ghosts, 2004
Presently no tourist gets more criticism from proboycott and protourism

‘I encourage activists than one who goes to Myanmar on a package trip. We’re not
going to bad-mouth them, but independent travellers are usually able
people to go to ensure that less money makes it into the government’s pockets. Even
individually’ if you’re looking for ease and comfort – having a ride waiting for you
at a bus station or airport, and some confidence in your day’s agenda –
you can do it without a package tour. You’ll not only save money, but
spread your budget across more people. Many travellers in Myanmar
follow roughly the following steps to set up some sort of itinerary.
Pad the beginning of your trip with a couple of ‘research’ days in
Yangon.
Stay at a family-owned guesthouse in Yangon, where you can get some
good info – but don’t depend on them alone for all your needs.
Visit a few Yangon-based private travel agents (p89) and ask each for
a list of good budget or private midrange hotels in Yangon they can
recommend, as well as transport options.
Tell travel agents clearly what you want, including avoiding any ser-
vices run by the government, and try not to pay all fees up front, but
ask to pay directly to hotels and other services.
Talk with fellow travellers who’ve used particular travel agents.
Visit the government-run MTT office for information on listings and
costs so you can compare suggested hotels and transport fares with
other travel agents, and listings in this guide.
Consider sleeping with a few less amenities and a bit less style than
you would go for in, say, Thailand, because the government is more
likely to have its tentacles in upmarket hotels.
Instead of flying, consider hiring a private driver for all or a portion
of your trip; see p365 on tips on finding the right car.
If you simply have to take a package tour of Myanmar, be sure to ask

any prospective tour company what it does to minimise the amount of
money going into the hands of the government.
BACK AT HOME
Your trip to Myanmar doesn’t end once you’re back home. Alert us and
fellow travellers via the Thorn Tree discussion board (www.lonelyplanet
.com) if you’ve stumbled onto a new or changed government-operated
service or have a suggestion on how to minimise money going to the
government. Write to your local Myanmar embassy to express your views
about the human-rights situation there; see p339 for a list of embassies.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
27
Getting Started
Read the discussion on p17 regarding whether you should boycott My-
anmar or not.
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit Myanmar is between November and February. Dur-
ing these months it rains least (if at all in places) and it is not so hot.
March to May brings intense heat (TS Eliot described April as ‘the
cruellest month’). At this time, Yangon’s daily temperatures often reach See Climate Charts (p335)
40ºC, while areas around Bagan and Mandalay go a few digits higher. The for more information.
cool hill towns of Shan State offer relief from the heat, though.
The southwest monsoon starts between mid-May and mid-June,
bringing frequent rains that dunk the country through till October,
peaking from July to September. The dry zone (roughly the area between
Mandalay and Pyay) gets less rain than the rest of the country, though
roads anywhere (and particularly in the delta region south and east of
Yangon) can become impassable. Rakhaing State bears the full force of
the rains – often exceeding 500cm of rain annually.
Check the ‘current weather’ link on the Myanmar section of www.asia
travelinfo.com/myanmar/currentweather.asp for 22 temperatures across
the country.
COSTS & MONEY

Even though the government keeps a ‘foreigner price’ system very much
in effect, causing transport, accommodation and entrance fees for for-
eigners to swallow the local price several times over, Myanmar is still
very cheap to visit.
For those looking for relative comfort, ‘midrange’ hotels start around
US$20 in most places, while upmarket hotels may charge over US$100
in Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake and Ngapali Beach. Shoestringers
can often find a clean room for US$4 or US$5 – a bit more in Yangon or
off-the-beaten-track places. Unless you eat meals at top-end hotels, or
classier restaurants in some touristy areas, meals are much the same fare –
rice or noodles, with meat or vegetables – and cost about US$1.
If you don’t have to have a guide, consider arranging your own trips.
A shared taxi (no guide) may cost as little as US$5 for a return trip to a
site. By comparison, in Bagan for example, one hotel offers a day tour to
Mt Popa for US$100 per person.
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

The must-haves include US dollars for your whole trip, a passport that will expire more than
six months after leaving the country, and a visa. Useful items include sunscreen lotion, insect
repellent, a good torch (only cheapies are available here), tampons (unlikely to be found outside
Yangon), disposable nappies (diapers), and a good waterproof poncho if you’re coming in the
rainy season.
Flip-flops or sandals are necessary for all the shoe-shedding you’ll be doing at Buddhist sites;
inexpensive ones are available. The AA batteries in Myanmar may be cheap, but they only keep
a CD player running for an hour. You’ll need a jumper (sweater) in the chillier hill towns and a
blanket if you are going to do overnight trips (including by boat) in the area.
See p49 for ideas on bringing gifts for the locals.
28 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p Te n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 29
If you’re travelling around by public transport and are OK with rice-

TOP TENS based meals, you can get by on as little as US$15 or US$20 a day; those
considering taking a couple of taxis and frequenting midrange local res-
Festivals & Events taurants may spend US$35 to US$50. Staying at plush hotels and eating HOW MUCH?
Independence Day, 4 January (p340) at classy restaurants will cost US$100 and more. Ride on a Yangon
city bus K5
Kachin State Day (Myitkyina), 10 January (p218)
TRAVEL LITERATURE Burmese all-you-can-eat
Shwedagon Festival (Yangon), February/March (p340) Few countries warrant more pretrip reading than Myanmar. buffet lunch K1000-1500
Buddha’s Birthday, full moon, April/May (p340)
In Andrew Marshall’s excellent The Trouser People: A Story of Burma
Overnight bus from
in the Shadow of the Empire (2002), the British author retraces the steps
Water Festival (Thingyan) & Burmese New Year, mid-April (p341) Yangon to Mandalay
of a gutsy Scot named Sir George Scott who traversed unmapped corners
K6000
Dawei Thingyan, April (p164) Few foreigners make it here to see local men don 4m bamboo of British Burma in the late 1800s. Marshall compares the current day
with Scott’s finds – much documented in Scott’s mammoth 1882 book Hired car with driver per
effigies and dance the streets to a drum beat.
The Burman – and finds that traditions have remained unchanged in the day US$100
Nat Festival (Mt Popa), Nayon full moon, May/June (p278) hills where ‘people are small and ghosts are big’. Visa extension in Yangon
Start of Buddhist Rains Retreat, full moon June/July (p341) From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey (2002), by Pascal US$38
Khoo Thwe, is a self-told tale of a reluctant rebel of the government who
Nat Festival, near Amarapura, after Wagaung full moon, August (p250) escaped – unlike many of his friends – out of Myanmar. Thwe grew up in a
Tazaungmon, full moon October/November (p341) Taunggyi’s balloon festival (p195) is a hill tribe in Shan State. His book hops between following telltale traditions
particular highlight. and his role in a changing Myanmar. There are many cultural traditions
presented – including a recipe for smoked pigeons with marijuana sauce.
The definitive reading on Myanmar continues to be George Orwell’s
Must Reads sweat-stained Burmese Days (1934), which takes place amid the last gasp
Burmese Days by George Orwell of the fading British colonial period in northern Burma. Well-timed
earthquakes and riots, and overly poetic birthmarks, can be forgiven as
The Trouser People: A Story of Burma in the Shadow of the Empire by Andrew Marshall
the lead characters’ appreciation for the Burmese way of life seeps into
Living Silence by Christina Fink the story of a gang of British brutes – some of whom are so stereotyped
The Glass Palace by Amitav Ghosh
it’s hard to distinguish them from one another.
Amitav Ghosh’s excellent The Glass Palace (2001) faithfully recounts
From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey by Pascal Khoo Thwe historical details (from King Thibaw’s fall in 1885 to the modern era) as
Letters from Burma or The Voice of Hope by Aung San Suu Kyi experienced by a curious web of fictionalised families (Burmese, Indian,
Chinese and American).
Culture Shock! Burma by Saw Myat Yin Daniel Mason’s The Piano Tuner (2002) follows a London tuner on a
The Piano Tuner by Daniel Mason strange trip to tune a piano deep in the Shan Hills. It’s similar to Heart
of Darkness except that Kurtz has a piano (not necessarily a mind) out
The Lady – Aung San Suu Kyi: Noble Laureate & Burma’s Prisoner by Barbara Victor
of whack. The story is good though, and descriptions of 19th-century sea
The History of Burma by GE Harvey voyages and Myanmar customs are spot on.
Souvenirs
INTERNET RESOURCES
Here are some of useful sites to refer to when planning your trip:
Longyis (sarong-style lower garment) Found wherever a breeze might blow. Ayezay (www.ayezay.com) Bursts with links and info on Myanmar, including travel, human rights
Pathein’s paper parasols (p134)
and geography.
Irrawaddy (www.irrawaddy.org) Website of a Bangkok-based publication, it focuses on political
Myanmar’s best lacquerware at Myinkaba (p275) issues, but covers many cultural news topics. It has a huge archive.
Traditional-style lacquerware in Kyaukka (p260) Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com) Self-promotion aside, LP’s discussion
board is the best resource to mix and mingle with fellow travellers.
Delta-born glazed pots from Twante (p129), near Yangon Mizzima (www.mizzima.com) A nonprofit news service organised in 1998 by Burmese journalists
Moustache Brothers T-shirt from Mandalay (p241) in exile.
Myanmar Home Page (www.myanmar.com) Provides a funny government dictum, and two
Cheap DVDs in Yangon (p122)
local English-language papers, including the useful Myanmar Times (for entertainment listings,
Marionettes from Yangon’s Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121) or in Mandalay (p241) flight schedules).
Jade from Mandalay’s local market (p242)
Myanmar Travel Information (www.myanmartravelinformation.com) Includes train and
airline schedules (though these date quickly).
Water buffalo in Kengtung (p198) Online Burma/Myanmar Library (www.burmalibrary.org) Comprehensive database of books on
Myanmar.
30 www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s 31
THE BIG-FOUR EXPANSION Four Weeks/Yangon to Mrauk U

Itineraries Take a few days in Yangon (p000), and see Shwedagon Paya (p000), Aung San’s
old home (p000), and wander around downtown (p000). Take a bus or taxi
to Bago (p000) to see a Buddha extravaganza by day, then continue on to AroundYag/Nthf Bo
Yango/SihtsBykeAuanMm
Yango
Yango/WlkiTur–DwtnYago
Yango/SihtswedPya
Kyaiktiyo (p000) for the night; wake up by doing a truck/trek up to the

CLASSIC ROUTES balance-act that is the Golden Rock.From Kyaiktiyo, get to Kalaw (p000
), for some treks in the Shan Hills, spend a day at Pindaya Caves (p000) to
Myanmr/ThzitoIleVKwa
SoutheasrnMym/StKaiko
NortheasnMym/TzioIleVaKwPndy
Northeasn
THE BIG-FOUR FRENZY Seven to Nine Days/Yangon to Inle Lake see their 8000 Buddha images and explore Inle Lake (p000) for a few days. NortheasnMym/IlLk
Starting in Yangon (p000), stretch your plane legs up the steps to the Shwed- Yango In October/November, you can see the balloon festival in Taunggyi (p000 Northeasn
agon Paya (p000) at night, when its golden zedi (stupa) glows under the
Yango /Si hts wed P ya ), where you can catch a ride to Mandalay (p000), where youcan visit four
Myanmr/IleLkAoudaTngyi Mandly
floodlights. Next day, wander around downtown (p000) ending at Bogyoke Yango/WlkiTur–DwtnYago ancient cities: Mingun (p000), Amarapura (p000), Inwa (p000) and Sagaing AroundMaly/cietCsngu AroundMaly/cietCsAmrapu AroundMaly/cietCsInw
Aung San Market (p000), which has the country’s best selection of handi- Yango/ShpiMrketsAuan (p000). From Mandalay, take a boat to Bagan (p000), allowing three days
AroundMaly/cietCsSgn Bagn&CetrlMym/a
crafts and souvenirs. Hire a driver, fly, or take a train or an overnight to temple-hop and honour the nat (spirit) at Mt Popa (p000). Bus or taxi to Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagntPp
bus to Mandalay (p000), where you can climb Mandalay Hill (p000), see the Mandly Sights/MandlyH Pyay (p000) to see the ruins of the ancient Pyu city by ox cart.
Bagn&CetrlMym/aoP
famed Mahamuni Paya (p000) and witness the Moustache Brothers (p000) Sights/ Ma mun P y MoustacheBr–fmSlpiktoare Two options for the rest of your stay: add on three days from Kyaik-
one day, and on the next make a rushed day trip to zedi-studded Sagaing tiyo, by bussing to Mawlamyine (p000) near the WWII ‘Death Railway’, SoutheasrnMym/Stawline
Hill (p000), then the leaning tower of Inwa (p000), and monk- and fisher-
Around M a l y/ cie t C s S g n h / a i H l AroundMaly/cietCsInw(av)Nmyi/ then take Myanmar’s loveliest boat ride to Hpa-an (p000) for a mountain SoutheasrnMym/KiSteHpa-n
filled U Bein’s Bridge (p000) in Amarapura at sunset. The boat trip down the AroundMaly/cietCsAmrpuaSgh/UBein’d climb and lunch, with monkeys. Then, when in Mandalay, add on a
Ayeyarwady River to Bagan (p000) takes a day but is a relaxing way to take Bag n & Ce tr l My m / a N ung U Get i Th r & Away/Bo three-day trip to refreshingly cooler Pyin U Lwin (p000), a flower-scented NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashyni
in life along one of Asia’s mightiest rivers. In Bagan, take a horse-cart or hill station with waterfalls, and do a DIY trek in Hsipaw (p000). Or scrap NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashHp
cycle around 42 sq km of 800-year-old temples. Next day, cool off in the those two side trips, and take a six-day trip from Pyay firstly to Mrauk U
Shan Hills to the east at Inle Lake (p000) – reached by bus, taxi or plane Nor theas n M y m /I l L k (p000), the Rakhaing’s hillocky version of Bagan and then snorkel and
WestrnMyam/NohRkingMrauU
– where dug-out canoes can take you to floating markets under the flight eat seafood at Ngapali Beach (p000). From here, take a flight or a bus ride WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBec
path of egrets; after a day, consider a day trip to Pindaya Caves (p000) to NortheasnMym/TzioIleVaKwPndy to Yangon.
see their 8000 Buddha images. Fly or take a bus back to Yangon.
If time is short, BANGLADESH

Build more memo-
BANGLADESH
you can still take in INDIA
INDIA ries by doing the
Yangon, Mandalay CHINA ‘Big Four’; then
CHINA
and a few nearby pick one seven-day
ancient cities, Hsipaw or two three-
Mingun
Bagan’s 3000 tem- Sagaing
Mandalay Sagaing Pyin U Lwin day side trips
Inwa Amarapura Inwa Mandalay
ples, and do a boat Amarapura (treks, boat rides,
Bagan Pindaya Caves Mt Pindaya Caves
trip on Inle Lake. Bagan Popa
Taunggyi
beaches, lesser-
Inle LAOS
Mrauk U
Kalaw LAOS
seen towns) to fill
Lake Inle
Lake your visa’s 28 days.
Pyay
Ngapali
Beach
Kyaiktiyo
Bago
YANGON
YANGON Hpa-an
THAILAND
Mawlamyine
THAILAND
Andaman
Islands Andaman
Islands
(INDIA) (INDIA)
The Big-Four Fenzy The Big-Four Expansion

The Active Life
32 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 33
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED TAILORED TRIPS

AYEYARWADY HO! Three or Four Weeks/Myitkyina to Chaungtha
Fly to Myitkyina (p000), where you can wait for the next ferry by taking in
Nor theas n My m / i k to K a h My n THE ACTIVE LIFE
Kachin culture; in January animal sacrifices are made to satisfy the nat. Many activities take place under the hot Myanmar sun. More travellers
Get a deck ticket for the half-day trip to Bhamo (p000), a leafy town with Nor theas n My m / i k to K a h B are planning their own loops on treks in Shan State. Of the best, and
a home-made helicopter inspired by James Bond. Hire a longboat for a six- certainly most popular, are the treks from Kalaw to Inle Lake (p000), while TrekingAoudKalw
hour ride to Katha (p000), where George Orwell based his Burmese Days. NortheasnMym/iktoKah treks around Hsipaw (p000) take in Shan villages. Getting to some religious TopFiverkngAasINtheMynmr
Although most prefer to stay aboard for the 24 hours south to Mandalay, sites are hikes in themselves, famously up Mandalay Hill (p000), riverside Sights/MandlyH
for a fun four-day side trip, disembark at Kyaukmyaung, and pack into a Sagaing Hill (p000), and past monkeys up Mt Popa (p000), the spiritual AroundMaly/cietCsSgnh/aiHl Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagntPp
pick-up for quiet Shwebo (p000), and then pleasant Monywa (p000), near AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrchwbo AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcMonywa centre of the 37 nat.
a Buddha-shaped mountain (p000) and the carnivalesque Thanboddhay Paya AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcAoundMywa/HpWiDgCves It’s rewarding to explore the back lanes of
(p000), brimming with over 500,000 Buddhas.
AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcAoundMywa/ThbP&Around Myanmar towns on a bike.Long-distance cy-
Take a bus to Mandalay (p000), and spend three or four days visiting Mandly clists can take the popular trip from Mandalay Maykha
River
the ancient cities (p000) and cycling around pagodas and chapati stands; Around Ma l y/ cie t C s to Bagan (p000) via Myingyan – or take to the Ayeyarwady Directoy/AvsClng
then get back on the Ayeyarwady to Bagan (p000), where you can cycle Bagn&CetrlMym/a hills along the road from Pyin U Lwin (p000), to River
Pyin U Lwin Lashio Directoy/AvsClng
around 3000 temples. A couple of days south from Bagan by boat is Lashio (p000) via Hsipaw. Sagaing Hsipaw
NortheasnMym/PiULwtoash
Mandalay
ho-hum Magwe, near a gurgling mound of butane-gas sludge guarded You can take kickboxing classes at the YMCA Bagan
Mt Popa
Kalaw
Inle Lake
by snakes at Minbu (p000); another night south is Pyay (p000), to see the B a g n & C e t r l M y m / a o P gw e Si hts/ lud Bag n & Ce tr l My m / a o P in Yangon (p000), or go for a run (p000). Ngapali
Yango/CurseThi&MtalA Yango/ActivesRu
ruins of the ancient city of the Pyu and the nearby spectacled Buddha, Both Ngapali Beach (p000) and Chaungtha Beach Beach WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBec
YANGON
the Shwemyetman Paya (p000). Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPArundy/Shweag (p000) offer snorkelling trips. The best diving,
AroundYag/DeltRiChunaBc
Chaungtha
Beach
Many travellers brave the bus ride from Pyay to Ngapali Beach (p000) WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBech by far, is off the islands near Kawthoung (p000 SoutheasrnMym/Ti(teasr)
for some relaxing beach life. Otherwise, get a bus back to Yangon (p000), Yango ), currently reached with diving operators from
Divson/Kawthug
and another one southeast to Chaungtha Beach (p000), a more accessible AroundYag/DeltRiChunaBc Phuket (see p000).Weeklong kayaking trips can Directoy/Avsng&Srkeli
kick-back spot on the Bay of Bengal. also be arranged in Kawthoung.

Kawthoung
In the far north, at the foothills of the Hima-
This may be laya, you can go white-water rafting serious
Myanmar’s ultimate INDIA rapids on the Maykha River (p000). Directoy/AvsRafng
journey – from Myitkyina
Myanmar’s top to
MYANMARVELS & THE OUTRIGHT ODD
BANGLADESH Some aspects of Myanmar are a little ‘unusual’ – and certainly make for
bottom, mostly Katha Bhamo
some memorable experiences. In Myingyan (p000) prized Buddha relics
CHINA
Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagniy
following the are housed in a remarkably unchanged British-colonial bank safe, while
Ayeyarwady, Kyaukmyaung
the remains of a famous monk have been in open view since 1951.
hitting the off- Shwebo
Snake temples are another thing. Three pythons in Paleik (p000) are AroundMaly/cietCsPk
Monywa lovingly fed at 11am daily, and pose with frightened kids for photos. An-
the-beaten track Mandalay other python in Bago (p000) is supposedly the reincarnation of the former AroundYag/NthfBo(pegu)/OrAtacinsh o/SakeMnstry
and not missing head of a monastery. At Minbu (p000) you can dip your toe in a ‘volcano’ Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPgweSihts/lud
Mandalay or Bagan, Bagan made of bubbling butane gas; and, hey, there’s a couple of snakes at the
with opportunities LAOS
pagoda.
Minbu You can pick up a water buffalo for mum
to travel aboard
at the market in Kengtung (p000); a cheapie NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasntg(kyio)/Shs&ActveCw
ferries with locals costs US$200. Near the Chinese border, Mong
who rarely see a Pyay La (p000) is a casino town with transvestites Kalaymyo
NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasMnL
foreign face. Ngapali

Beach
and Chinese yuan for local currency. Near Paleik
Myingyan
Mong La
Kengtung
India, Kalaymyo (p000) is a half-Chin, half- Minbu
AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcKalymo
Bamar town you can fly to, but don’t wander Shwedaung
Chaungtha
Beach YANGON
out of town. Bago Kyaiktiyo
The unique spectacled Buddha of Shwemyet- YANGON
man Paya (p000) sits in a temple near Pyay. Any Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPArundyShweag
THAILAND nat festival (p000) may evolve into people fall- TheCultr/RigonBdsmIMyar/The37NtFsival
ing into trances and being possessed by spirits,

sometimes led by men dressed as nat wives.
Feast on wriggling larva at markets (p000). Strenacks:WDYou
Ayeyarwady Ho! Myanmarvels & the Outright Odd

34
Snapshot
When you’ve been isolated from the international community for as long
as Myanmar has, even a major government shake-up, as happened in
October 2004, makes little more than a blip on the international media
radar – if that. This particular shake-up came when Myanmar’s number
FAST FACTS three in command, Prime Minister Khin Nyunt, was arrested and ‘per-
Population: 52 million mitted to retire for health reasons’. Hard-line leader General Than Shwe
Population growth rate: accused Nyunt of ‘corruption’, but most commentators believe Nyunt’s
0.47% removal had more to do with his overly pro-China business interests
and concerns over his military intelligence background. In the days
Area: 676,577 sq km
that followed, hundreds of intelligence officers, which Than Shwe also
GDP: US$73.7 billion looked upon with suspicion, were arrested – and roadside checkpoints
(60th in world) stood empty across the country. A couple of overly optimistic people
GDP per capita: US$1733 believed Nyunt – with his declared ‘road map to democracy’ via a multi-
(172nd in world) party system – was something of a budding Gorbachev; others recall his
brutal response to the 1988 nonviolent demonstrations. Most locals –
Number of refugees
many of whom learned of Nyunt’s removal through CNN or BBC – are
or displaced persons:
wary of Than Shwe’s promise to continue with the roadmap. Comedian
600,000 to one million
Lu Maw of the Mandalay-based Moustache Brothers called the change
Internet users: ‘same wine, new bottle’.
28,000 (2003) After Nyunt’s ousting came reports of thousands of prisoners being
Estimated number released, including many political prisoners. Still, one notable absentee
of people with AIDS: on that list was Nobel Peace Prize–winner Aung San Suu Kyi, who re-
330,000 mains under house arrest (her third arrest since 1989). Locking her up
Government’s self-
has provoked international condemnation of the regime. In July 2003, US
proclaimed slogan:
President George W Bush enacted a full embargo of Myanmar, including
‘Everybody’s friend but
a ban on all financial transactions with the country. This sent credit-card
nobody’s ally’
companies and foreign-run banks in Myanmar packing.
Meanwhile, the EU introduced stronger sanctions including threat-
Number of Bangkok ening not to approve Myanmar dignitaries’ visas; officials at the 2004
noodle carts named after Athens Olympics refused entry to representatives of the Ministry of Sport
Aung San Suu Kyi: 100 from Myanmar; and in February 2005, Tony Blair approved a tourism
boycott of the country. Even slow-to-criticise Association of Southeast
Asian Nations (Asean) officials publicly condemned Myanmar for keep-
ing Suu Kyi under arrest, though it’s unlikely much will come of talks
on the matter at the 2006 Asean summit, controversially scheduled to
take place in Myanmar. Despite sanctions with the West, Myanmar’s
trade with Singapore, China, Thailand and India remains unaffected,
while Japan has flip-flopped back to environmental aid packages (and
associated investment) with the ruling junta. In the meantime, General
Than Shwe plays off China’s and India’s battling interests in the country
(particularly regarding the country’s offshore oil reserves – believed to
be Asia’s biggest) to the regime’s advantage.
Reliable reports of the devastating December 2004 tsunami are few
and far between. However, it appears that the country largely escaped
the wrath of the disaster, though southeastern Myanmar saw 20 deaths
when a bridge was washed out in Kawthoung.
16
The Authors
ROBERT REID Coordinating Author
Moulded by Oklahoma (USA) public schools, Robert moved to a crappy base-
ment apartment in New York with his still-warm journalism degree. After that
he lived in San Francisco, London and Ho Chi Minh City, where he worked
at Vietnam News and travelled a lot around Southeast Asia. After Asia, Robert
worked at Lonely Planet – as a commissioning editor then a publishing man-
ager. He now writes full-time from a Brooklyn apartment with a view of the
galaxy-famous Verrazano Bridge. Robert wrote the introductory chapters,
Mandalay, Around Mandalay, Bagan & Central Myanmar, Temples of Bagan,
Western Myanmar, Pyin U Lwin section, Directory, and Transport.
The Coordinating Author’s Favourite Trip

I was a little worried about the bus trip between Ngapali Beach
(p314) and Pyay (p283) – a bouncing, fish-filled, sure-fire vomit
ride. My bus mate – a local in jeans and ballcap (little guy, maybe
37) – lets go a raspy laugh at anything uttered. ‘I paid US$15 to
stay there.’ Ho ho ho! ‘Another passport check?’ Ho ho ho! A woman
gets off in Taunggok snarling, ‘I don’t want my daughter to throw Taunggok Pyay
up all night’. Ho ho ho. At a 3am tea stop, Rasp buys me tea and Ngapali
Beach
cake and teases a heavy-set woman; ‘She looks like she’s 50.’ (Much restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
laughter. Her too.) I’m asked how old she looks. ‘I would’ve swore
27.’ (More laughter.) Turns out she’s his wife. I wake him in Pyay at
5.30am and hand him an ‘I ♥ NYC’ T-shirt. Ho ho ho. Somehow we everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
made the journey without even unfolding the vomit bag. the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
MICHAEL GROSBERG Yangon, Around Yangon,

Southeast Myanmar & Northeast Myanmar
Michael was raised in the Washington DC area, studied philosophy in Mich-
igan and Israel and then worked in business in the Northern Marianas. A long
overland trip through Asia followed, finally ending in exhaustion, carrying his
clothes in a laundry bag in Amman, Jordan, with his sanity still intact. After
stints at journalism and NGO work in South Africa, Michael pursued graduate
work in comparative literature in New York City and has since taught at various
universities. Despite the long economy-class flights and his inherited distaste
for air travel, he has continued to make repeated trips to Southeast Asia.
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the Internet or phone, and they don’t take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.
35
History
A preview of the past: life in Myanmar has rarely been smooth. Squab-
bling kingdoms plagued the area for centuries, till the British took it in
three waves in the 19th century. For its own economic benefit, Britain
managed the mountainous border regions (home to many ethnic groups)
and the fertile plains and delta of central and lower Myanmar (where most
Bamar live) separately, festering a rift between cultures that lingers in full
force today. After a rocky independence from Britain from 1948, General
Ne Win wrestled control in 1962 from the fracturing elected government
and led the country to full isolation from the outside world. Ruined by a
rapidly deteriorating economy and a major currency devaluation in the
1970s and ’80s, many thousands of locals flooded the streets – peacefully –
on 8 August 1988 in prodemocracy marches that saw Aung San Suu Kyi
emerge as a leader recognised worldwide. The violent reaction to this
protest by the military was broadcast on international television screens
and forced the administration to call a national election. The election was
held in 1990, but the military has yet to hand over the government to
Aung San Suu Kyi’s National League of Democracy (NLD), which won
a staggering percentage of votes.
WHERE HUMANS BEGAN?

Virtually nothing is known of Myanmar’s prehistoric inhabitants, though
History of Burma (1925),
archaeological evidence suggests the area has been inhabited since at
by GE Harvey, gives a
least 2500 BC. Ancient Greeks knew of Burma. Going a bit further back
chronological rundown
in history: the Myanmar government is proud of recent finds that link
of Myanmar’s kingdoms
the earliest primates – of which, theory goes, humans evolved – to Asia,
(from the Pyu era until
or more precisely central Myanmar. A 45 million–year-old fossil (an
1824). Harvey almost
anklebone of a primate) was supposedly found in central Myanmar in
audibly sighs at the
the late 1990s.
kings’ blunders, and
faithfully recounts many
EARLY KINGDOMS fanciful legends.
Myanmar’s landscape – a broad expanse of fertile flatland cupped by
protective mountain ranges along its present international borders and
carved by long, very navigable rivers – explains a lot of how this land
evolved once migrating ethnic groups decided to stick around. Four
major precolonial ethnic groups peppered the flatlands with kingdoms
for centuries, while smaller ethnic groups lived – mostly untouched –
in the remote hills beyond. The first major kingdom of sorts started
with the Pyu (who arrived from the Tibeto-Burman plateau or from
The Rakhaing claim the
India). The Pyu created city-states – Beikthano, Hanlin (p262), Sri Ksetra
Buddha visited their
(Thayekhittaya; p286) – in central Myanmar between the 1st century
kingdom in the 6th
BC and the 9th century AD. In the 10th century, Yunnanese invaders
century BC.
from China enslaved or scared off most Pyu (though some art of the Pyu
remains, showing a blend of Hinduism and Theravada and Mahayana
Buddhism).
The Mon (Tailing), who may have originated from eastern India or main-
land Southeast Asia, arrived in the 6th century, settling fertile lowlands on
TIMELINE 543 BC 1st century BC

Buddha’s death Possible founding of Beikthano, a Pyu town east of
current-day Magwe
36 H I S T O R Y • • T h e ‘ Fi r s t B u r m a ’ www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • S e c o n d B u r m e s e E m p i re 37
Thaton in 1057, bringing back both the scriptures and the king! The
CAPITAL HOPSCOTCH resultant injection of Mon culture in Bagan inspired a creative energy.
It’s difficult to give a precise summary of overlapping historical periods, dynasties and locations It quickly became a city of glorious temples and the capital of the First
of capitals in Myanmar due to a lack of accurate records. Here are general periods of key capitals Burmese Empire. For more on the history of Bagan see p293. What is currently
of the Pyu, Rakhaing, Mon and Bamar people, although the kingdoms often jumped about as In 1077, the kingdom took a steady slip downward when a lowly buffalo considered traditional
often as new kings breathed and died. killed mighty Anawrahta. None of his successors (Kyanzittha, Alaungsithu ‘Burmese culture’ is really
and Htilominlo) had his vision, and the kingdom’s power slowly declined. a fusion of Mon and
Pyu Inwa 1364-1555 In 1273 King Narathihapate gets the credit for carelessly offending the Bamar cultures that came
Beikthano 1st century BC- 1636-1752 growing power of Kublai Khan and his Tartars (assassinating diplomats about at the height of the
5th century AD 1765-83 will do that), who invaded in 1287 but didn’t stay long. Shan tribes from Bagan era.
Hanlin 3rd-9th century 1823-37 the hills to the east – closely related with the Siamese – took the opportu-
Thayekhittaya 3rd-10th century Taungoo 1486-1573 nity and grabbed a piece of the low country, while the Mon in the south
Shwebo 1758-65 broke free of Bamar control and established their own kingdom.
Rakhaing (Mokesebo)
Dhanyawady ?-6th century AD Konbaung 1783-1823
Wethali 4th-9th century 1837-57
SECOND BURMESE EMPIRE
Mrauk U 13th-18th century The 200 years following the collapse of Bagan were chaotic, with pieces
Mandalay 1857-85 of the puzzle ruled by varying factions. During this time, Marco Polo
Mon (Yadanapon) probably dropped by in the late 13th century, and the first actual record
Thaton (Dvaravati) ?-10th century British of European contact came in 1435, when Venetian trader Nicolo di Conti
Hanthawady (Bago) 6th-16th century Sittwe & 1826-52 travelled along the coast.
1740-57 Mawlamyine In the 13th century the Mon re-established Hanthawady as a fairly stable
Mandalay 1852-86 kingdom at Bago (Pegu) near Yangon. In 1472, Dhammazedi, the greatest
Bamar
Yangon 1886-1947 of Bago’s kings, came to the throne; he prompted a Buddhist revival, set
Bagan 10th-14th century
up diplomatic contact with Europe and set the first stones for the great
Sagaing 1315-64
Shwedagon Paya in Yangon.
Meanwhile the Shan had taken over northern Myanmar and founded the
The Traveller’s History of
the Ayeyarwady River delta across Thailand to Cambodia. They developed Kingdom of Inwa (mistakenly called ‘Ava’ by the British) near present-day
Burma (2000), by Gerry
the area as Suvannabhumi (Golden Land), the capital either being near Mandalay in 1364, and the Rakhaing people flourished in western Myan-
Abbot, highlights
present-day Thaton in Myanmar, or in Thailand’s Nakhon Pathom. mar, building fields of temples to rival Bagan.
interactions with
The Bamar people, or Burmans, arrived from somewhere in the eastern Amid the testosterone, the tiny settlement of Bamar refugees in central
Myanmar from foreign
Himalaya in the 8th or 9th century, supplanting the vanquished Pyu in Taungoo (surviving between the Mon and Shan by playing the larger forces
eyes from the 14th
central Myanmar, and establishing the cultural heartland of Myanmar off against each other) managed eventually to egg on the so-called ‘Second
century to the end of the
as it’s still known. Bagan (Pagan) is believed to have been founded by Burmese Empire’. In the 16th century, a series of Taungoo kings extended
last millennium.
the Bamar in 849. Centuries of conflict with the Mon erupted after their their power north, nearly to the Shan’s capital at Inwa, then south, taking
arrival, and the end product – even with Bamar coming out on top – was the Mon kingdom and shifting their own capital to Bago. In 1550 Bayin-
really a merger of the two cultures. naung came to the throne and reunified all of Myanmar and defeated the
Sometimes linked with present-day Bangladesh, the Rakhaing (Araka- neighbouring Siamese so convincingly that it was to be many years before
nese) claim their kingdom was well underway by the 6th century BC. the long-running friction between the two nations re-emerged.
Certainly it was in full force by the 15th century, when – as a Buddhist As happened with Anawrahta, the union slipped into decline following
kingdom based in Mrauk U – Rakhaing pirates controlled much of the the ruler’s death in 1581. The capital was shifted north to Inwa in 1636.
Bay of Bengal. Its isolation from the sea – effectively cutting off communication around
the kingdom – ultimately contributed to their defeat by the British.
THE ‘FIRST BURMA’
Nearly 200 years after Bagan was founded, Anawrahta took the throne BURMA’S LAST KINGS
in 1044 and ignited the so-called ‘golden period’ by consolidating the King Alaungpaya kicked off the third and final Burmese dynasty by con-
scattered kingdoms for the first time. Initially animists, the Bamar had testing against the Mon when the Mon took over Inwa in 1752. Some say
picked up a hybrid form of Buddhism – part Tantric, part Mahayana – Alaungpaya’s sense of invincibility deluded the Burmese into thinking
during their migration to Myanmar. When the Mon king Manuha of they could resist the British later on. After Alaungpaya’s short bloody
Thaton refused Anawrahta’s request for their Tripitaka (the holy canon reign (see p38), his son, Hsinbyushin charged into Thailand and levelled
of Theravada Buddhism), Anawrahta marched south and conquered the capital of Ayuthaya, forcing the Siamese to relocate their capital to
AD 754 6th–9th century 849 1057

Chinese Yunnan conquers the hill tribes in the north The Mon, then the Bamar people settle in Myanmar Bagan founded Ancient Mon city of Thaton conquered by Anawrahta’s Bamar
forces from Bagan; First Burmese Empire emerges
38 H I S T O R Y • • B u r m a ’ s L a s t K i n g s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • E n t e r B r i t a i n 39
quickly seized all of southern Burma, conquering Yangon, Pathein (Bas-

sein) and they marched north to Pyay (Prome), facing little opposition.
BURMA’S GREATEST KING The unpopular Bagan Min was ousted in favour of Mindon Min, who
Mention ‘Alaungpaya’ to a Burmese person and you’ll often get a smile. The king with no royal moved the capital to Mandalay in 1857. Mindon Min built Mandalay, but A couple of interesting
ties put his hometown of Shwebo (then known as Mokesebo; p260) on the map, and kick-started unhappily didn’t adequately provide for his successor. After he died in 1878, titles (usually available in
Burma’s final dynasty by kicking more arse than all the rest of Burmese kings combined. During the new (rather reluctant) king, Thibaw Min, was propelled to power by Yangon) include A History
his reign, he mocked English dignitaries (‘like women with soft skin and no tattoos’) and shrugged his ruthless wife and scheming mother-in-law. The following massive ‘mas- of Burma by Maung Htin
off offers of assistance (‘I can crush 100 men such as the king of Bago’). Alaungpaya talked big, sacre of kinsmen’ (79 of his rivals) made many British papers – previous Aung, and Deposed King
but backed it all up – plus some. kings hadn’t had to face the consequences of world media attention – which Thibaw of Burma in India,
As the Mon (Tailing) army of Bago conquered a passive Burmese capital of Inwa (Ava) in 1752, did little to support any move to question British power. 1885–1926, by WS Desai.
a furious Alaungpaya rallied to keep the Burmese kingdom alive. He readied his hometown (then
home to 300) by digging a moat and building walls. When the Mon asked for Alaungpaya’s al- ENTER BRITAIN
legiance, he attacked. King Thibaw was totally ineffective and ruthless. Gangs of thugs replaced
Word spread of this defiant bumpkin, and Alaungpaya found ready recruits – Burmese and relative order in northern Burma. In 1885 it took Britain two weeks to
Shan – who would accept the measly offerings for serving in his army: no pay (other than selling take Mandalay, the final piece in the Burmese acquisition puzzle. Some
any Mon kidnapped) and a BYOBS policy (‘bring your own bamboo spear’ to fight with). locals today shake their heads stating that Ayeyarwady forts weren’t used
Over the next few years, however, the army collected weapons from slain French soldiers (who adequately to repel the British ships; others call the conflict ‘the war over
aided the Mon) and gradually picked apart the Mon kingdom: taking Inwa in 1753, Pyay in 1755, wood’, as Britain’s victory allowed it to secure rights to the growing teak
Dagon later in 1755 (which he renamed Yangon, meaning ‘End of Strife’), and the Mon capital industry.
of Bago in 1757. At one point, so the story goes, Alaungpaya sent 1000 cut-off Mon heads on Focused on controlling the rice, gem, petroleum and (particularly) teak
a raft to Bago as a gesture of ill will. After five years of battling the Shwebo king, the Mon fled exports, England found Burma easier to control by applying direct rule only
to Siam where they were assimilated. where the Bamar were the majority (ie in the central plains). ‘Hill states’ of
Alaungpaya followed them. But he started so late in the year that rains sent him and his army the Chin, Kachin, Shan, Kayin and Kayah were allowed to remain largely
on retreat. On 11 May 1760, not yet back home, Alaungpaya died at the age of 46. His body autonomous. This division would contribute to a rocky start when Myan-
was cremated in Shwebo. mar became independent in 1948, due to ill-feeling between the groups.
His reign lasted only eight years, but his home is ever revered as ‘Victory Land’ to most Division among the indigenous population was brought about in other
Burmese. ways too. As part of ‘British India’ after 1885, a flood of Indians (whom the For an immensely
Burmese traditionally looked down on) came into the country and became readable fictionalised,
the ‘second colonisers,’ by building businesses and taking rare low-level but accurate, retelling of
what eventually became Bangkok. His successor, Bodawpaya (another government jobs. The less commercially experienced Burmese were unable Burma’s days from the
son of Alaungpaya), looked for glory too, and brought the Rakhaing to compete. By 1930, most of Yangon’s population was Indian. Chinese fall of King Thibaw to the
(Arakanese) under Burmese control, which eventually led to tension were also encouraged to immigrate and set up businesses to stimulate the modern era, read Amitav
with the British (who had economic interests in Rakhaing territory) that economy. Cheap British imports poured in, fuelled by rice profits. Ghosh’s The Glass Palace
the dynasty would not outlive. At this time many old names got new British ones: Rangoon for Yan- (p29).
With eyes on Indochina, Britain wrestled all of the increasingly isola- gon, Prome for Pyay, Burma for Myanmar.
Some of the first British tionist Burma from the kings in three swipes, named the First, Second and Contrary to the romantic tone of modern English-language accounts
encounters with Burmese Third Anglo-Burmese Wars – picking up Tenasserim and Rakhaing in of ‘Burma under the Raj’, much of Myanmar was considered a hardship
kings were in the early 1824, Yangon and southern Burma in 1853, and Mandalay and northern posting by British colonial officials, who found the Burmese difficult
18th century, when Burma in 1885. The first war started when Burmese troops, ordered by King to govern (and, to be fair, many of the British officials were insensitive
Bodawpaya dressed up in Bagyidaw, crossed into British-controlled Assam (in India) from Rakhaing and incompetent). The country had the highest crime rate in the Brit-
so much gold (to impress) to pursue refugees. General Maha Bandula managed some minor victories ish Empire. Along with railroads and schools, the British built prisons,
that he needed assistants using guerrilla tactics, but eventually was killed by cannon fire in 1824; including the infamous Insein prison, the Empire’s largest and still in use
to help move him to his Burmese troops then surrendered. The Treaty of Yandabo, helped by the by the current government.
throne. translator of missionary Adoniram Judson (whose name is on many Baptist
churches in Myanmar still), gave Rakhaing and Tenasserim to the British. RISE OF NATIONALISM
Two Burmese kings later, Bagan Min started his reign – as many did – Or course, many Burmese were not happy with the British presence,
with mass executions to rid the capital of his potential rivals. An 1852 and nationalism burgeoned in the early days of the 20th century – often
incident involving the possible kidnapping of two British sea captains – led by Buddhist monks. In 1919, at Mandalay’s Eindawya Paya (p236),
some argue it never happened – gave the British a welcome excuse for monks evicted Europeans who refused to take off their shoes; one monk,
igniting another conflict, and an opportunity for more land. The British U Kettaya, was given a life sentence. U Ottama, a Burmese monk who had
1270s 1273 1364 1435

Marco Polo pops by Burmese slay Tartar ambassadors; a peeved-off Kublai Khan Shan leaders found Inwa (Ava) Portuguese Nicolo di Conti visits; the first recorded European
invades 14 years later contact
40 H I S T O R Y • • R i s e o f N a t i o n a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • U N U & E a r l y W o e s 41
studied in India and returned to Myanmar in 1921, promoted religious Aung San and the BNA switched allegiance to the Allied side. The
liberation as way to bring the independence movement to the attention British, helped by the imaginative ‘Chindit’ anti-Japanese operation,
of the average Burmese Buddhist. After numerous arrests, U Ottama ultimately prevailed. The Allies suffered about 27,000 casualties, while
died in prison in 1939. Another monk, U Wizaya, died in prison after a nearly 200,000 Japanese perished during the campaign.
163-day hunger strike that began as a protest against a rule that forbade
monks from wearing robes while imprisoned. Footsteps to Independence
University students in Yangon went on strike on National Day in 1920, In January 1947, Aung San visited London as the colony’s deputy chairman
protesting elitist entrance requirements at British-built universities; the of the Governor’s Executive Council, and signed a pact (the Aung San–
students referred to each other as thakin (master), as they claimed to be Attlee agreement) allowing self-rule within a year. Plans included an April
the rightful masters of Burma. (Present leader General Than Shwe among election of a constituent assembly, made up of nationals of Burma only; also
them.) One thakin – a young man called Aung San – was expelled from Burma would receive an interest-free loan of ₤8 million from Britain.
university in 1936 for refusing to reveal who wrote a politically charged A month later, Aung San met with Shan, Chin and Kachin leaders in
article. Panglong, in Shan State. They signed the famous Panglong Agreement
The British were eventually forced to make a number of concessions in February 1947, guaranteeing ethnic minorities the freedom to choose
towards self-government. In 1937 Myanmar was separated adminis- their political destiny if dissatisfied with the situation after 10 years.
tratively from India, but internally the country was torn by a struggle The agreement also broadly covered absent representatives of the Kayin,
between opposing Burmese parties and sporadic outbursts of anti-Indian Kayah, Mon and Rakhaing.
and anti-Chinese violence. In the elections for the assembly, Aung San’s Anti-Fascist People’s ‘Democracy is the only
Freedom League (AFPFL) won an overwhelming 172 seats out of 225. The ideology which is
Aung San & WWII Burmese Communist Party took seven, while the Bamar opposition (led consistent with freedom…
More famous in the West as Aung San Suu Kyi’s father, Bogyoke Aung by U Saw) took three. The remaining 69 seats were split between ethnic It is therefore the only
Irrawaddy Flotilla, by San is still revered as national hero No 1 by most Myanmar people – minorities (including four seats for the Anglo-Burman community). ideology we should
Alister McRae, highlights from prodemocracy activists to the military regime. His likeness is seen Britain hoped to maintain influence and wanted a gradual transition. aim for’
the British-bred fleet of throughout Myanmar. Aung San Suu Kyi, who was only two when he died, Aung San wanted immediate independence with a democratic, civilian AUNG SAN
steamers that continue called him ‘a simple man with a simple aim: to fight for independence’. government.
to ply Myanmar’s many Born in 1915, Aung San was an active student at Rangoon University. He wouldn’t live to see it. On 19 July 1947, the 32-year-old Aung San
waterways, while He edited the newspaper and led the All Burma Students’ Union. At 26 and six aides were gunned down in a plot ascribed to U Saw. (Some
The Longest War years old, he and the group called the ‘Thirty Comrades’ looked abroad speculate that the military was involved, due to Aung San’s plans to
1941–45, by Louis for support of their independence movement. After initially planning to demilitarise the government.) Apparently U Saw thought he’d walk into
Allen, gives an excellent seek it in China, they negotiated for military training in Japan, and re- the prime minister’s role with Aung San gone; instead he took the noose,
account of the WWII turned as the first troops of the Burmese National Army (BNA) with the when the British had him hanged in 1948.
campaign in Burma. invading Japanese troops in 1941. By mid-1942, the Japanese had driven
retreating British-Indian forces, along with the Chinese Kuomintang U NU & EARLY WOES
(KMT), out of most of Myanmar. But the harsh and arrogant conduct of While Myanmar mourned the death of a hero, Prime Minister Attlee and
the Japanese soon alienated the Myanmar people. Aung San complained Aung San’s protégé, U Nu, signed an agreement for the transfer of power
at Japan’s 15th Army headquarters in Maymyo (now Pyin U Lwin): ‘I in October 1947. On 4 January 1948, at an auspicious middle-of-the-
went to Japan to save my people who were struggling like bullocks under night hour, Burma became independent and left the British Common-
the British. But now we are treated like dogs.’ wealth. As Aung San had promised, the national presidency was given to
a representative from an ethnic minority group, and Sao Shwe Thaike, a
MAJOR WWII SITES IN MYANMAR Shan leader, became the first president of the Union of Burma.
Almost immediately, the new government had to contend with the
Lashio (p215) Where the infamous Burma Road began complete disintegration of the country – involving rebels, communists,
Taukkyan War Cemetery (p140) Final resting place of over 33,000 allied soldiers gangs and US-supported anticommunist Chinese KMT forces.
The hill-tribe people, who had supported the British and fought against
‘Death Railway’ terminus (p159) Western end of Japanese-designed Burma–Siam Railway
the Japanese throughout the war, were distrustful of the Bamar majority
(of Bridge over the River Kwai fame), built by Allied POWs and Asian coolies and which claimed
and went into armed opposition. The communists withdrew from the gov-
over 100,000 lives
ernment and attacked it. Muslims from the Rakhaing area also opposed
British Colonial Diplomat House, Meiktila (p288) Former Japanese interrogation centre, the new government. The Mon, long thought to be totally integrated with
now a hotel the Burmese, revolted. Assorted factions, private armies, WWII resistance
groups and plain mutineers further confused the picture.
1472 1550 1627 1753–5

The great Mon King Dhammazedi takes the throne and sets up Bayinnaung ascends to the throne and reunifies all of Myanmar; Dutch and English East India Company opens branches Burmese king Alaungpaya conquers Inwa, then Dagon, which he
diplomatic contact with Europe the Second Burmese Empire renames as ‘Yangon’
42 H I S T O R Y • • N e W i n & t h e R o a d t o S o c i a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • N e W i n & t h e R o a d t o S o c i a l i s m 43
In early 1949 almost the entire country was in the hands of a number was allowed to depart with only K75 plus K250 in gold. As many as a
Burma: Prospects for of rebel groups, and there was even fighting in Yangon’s suburbs. At one 250,000 people of Indian and Chinese descent left Burma during the
Political and Economic stage the government was on the point of surrendering to the communist 1960s. Anti-Chinese riots in Yangon in 1967 – spurred by fears that the
Reconstruction (1997), forces, but gradually fought back, and through 1950 and 1951 regained Chinese were about to ‘import’ China’s Cultural Revolution – resulted
by David I Steinberg, control of much of the country. in hundreds of Chinese deaths.
written for the World Also, with the collapse of Chiang Kai-Shek’s KMT forces before Mao In late 1974 there were serious student disturbances over the burial
Peace Foundation, gives Zedong’s, the tattered remnants of the KMT withdrew into northern of former United Nations (UN) secretary-general and long-time Ne
a quick summing-up of Burma and mounted raids from there into Yunnan, China. Being no Win political foe, U Thant, yet overall the government appeared firmly
the present woes and match for the Chinese communists, the KMT decided to carve their own in control and determined to continue its strange progress towards a
concludes that ‘The little fiefdom out of Burmese territory. Burmese Utopia. In late 1981 Ne Win retired as president of the repub-
Burmese will determine lic (retaining his position as chair of the Burmese Socialist Programme
their own fate’. NE WIN & THE ROAD TO SOCIALISM Party, the country’s only legal political party at the time), but his suc-
By the mid-1950s, the government had strengthened its hold on the cessor, San Yu, and the government remained guided very much by Ne
country, but the economy slipped from bad to worse. A number of gran- Win’s political will.
diose development projects succeeded only in making foreign ‘advisors’
rather wealthy, and in 1953 the Burmese bravely announced that aid or ‘8-8-88’
assistance from the USA was no longer welcome, as long as US-supplied With the standard of living in Burma on a continual downward spi-
Chinese KMT forces were at large within the country. U Nu managed to ral, something happened that no-one foresaw. In 1987 and 1988, the
remain in power until 1958, when he voluntarily handed the reins over long-suffering Burmese people decided they had had enough of their
to a military government under General Ne Win. incompetent and arrogant government and packed the streets in huge
Considering the pride most of the country had for the Burmese army – demonstrations, insisting that Ne Win go.
which helped bring independence and was founded by Aung San – this Ne Win voluntarily retired from the chairmanship of the party in July
was seen as a welcome change. Freed from the ‘democratic’ responsibili- 1988, but it was too late to halt the agitation of the people. The massive
ties inherent in a civilian government, Ne Win was able to make some prodemocracy demonstrations, spurred by the further demonetisation of
excellent progress during the 15 months his military government oper- large notes and a prophecy that Burma would become a ‘free country’ on
ated. A degree of law and order was restored, rebel activity was reduced the auspicious date of 8 August 1988 (8-8-88), were brutally crushed by the
and Yangon was given a massive and much-needed cleanup. government, with at least 3000 deaths recorded over a six-week period.
In early 1960, elections were held and U Nu regained power with a Ne Win’s National Unity Party (NUP; formerly the Burmese Socialist
much-improved majority, but once again political turmoil developed. Programme Party) was far from ready to give up control, and the public
His party threatened to break up into opposing groups and in early protests continued as two Ne Win stooges succeeded him. The third Ne
1962 Ne Win assumed power again and abolished the parliament. He Win successor came to power after a military coup in September 1988,
After being forced into established his own 17-member Revolutionary Council, announcing that which, it is generally believed, was organised by Ne Win.
exile, one-time leader the country would ‘march towards socialism in our own Burmese way’. A newly formed State Law & Order Restoration Council (Slorc) estab-
U Nu vainly attempted This time U Nu did not hand over power voluntarily, and along with his lished martial law under the leadership of General Saw Maung, com-
In 1989, Slorc changed
to oppose the Ne Win main ministers was thrown into prison, where he remained until forced mander in chief of the armed forces, and promised to hold democratic
the country’s official
government from abroad. into exile in 1966. National Assembly elections in May 1989.
name from the Union of
In 1980 he returned to ‘The Burmese Road to Socialism’ was a steadily downhill path. A The opposition quickly formed a coalition party called the National
Burma to the Union of
Yangon, where he trans- rice-growing wonder fell into economic free fall. Nationalisation policies League for Democracy (NLD) and campaigned for all it was worth. The
Myanmar, claiming that
lated Buddhist scripture were extended right down to the retail shop level in 1966 when it was long-suppressed Burmese population rallied around charismatic NLD
‘Burma’ was a vestige of
most of the time. He died announced that a long list of items would only be available from ‘Peoples spokesperson Aung San Suu Kyi, daughter of hero Aung San. Suu Kyi,
European colonialism.
in 1995. Shops’. The net result was frightening; many everyday commodities im- conversant in Burmese, Japanese, French and English and married to an
Other name changes
mediately became available only on the black market, and vast numbers of Oxford University professor, brought a hitherto-unseen sophistication
included Rangoon (back
people were thrown out of work by the closure of retail outlets. to Burmese politics.
to Yangon).
A disingenuous ‘sock the rich’ measure demonetised the largest bank- Nervous, Slorc tried to appease the masses with new roads and adding
notes (K50 and K100). Anybody so unfortunate as to have these notes a coat of paint to many buildings in Yangon, and then it attempted to
found them to be worthless. Many of the retail traders who became interfere in the electoral process by shifting villages from one part of the
unemployed following the nationalisation of retail trade were Indians country to another and by postponing the election. Perhaps the biggest sur-
and Chinese – vestiges of the colonial era in Bamar eyes – and they prise came with the announcement that the government was abandoning
were hustled out of the country with Draconian thoroughness. No com- socialism in favour of a capitalist economy in all but a few industries.
pensation was paid for their expropriated businesses, and each adult In July 1989 Aung San Suu Kyi was placed under house arrest.
1826 1852 1885 1947–8

England annexes Rakhaing and Tenasserim, following First Second Anglo-Burmese War gives Britain Bago Third Anglo-Burmese War ends era of Burmese kings General Aung San assassinated; independence achieved
Anglo-Burmese War
44 H I S T O R Y • • 1 9 9 0 E l e c t i o n & t h e N L D www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r 45
1990 ELECTION & THE NLD

Feeling it had effectively dealt with the opposition, the government THE WRITINGS OF AUNG SAN SUU KYI
allowed an election in May 1990 (the first in 30 years). In spite of all It takes very little reading to understand why so many people in Myanmar have a deep respect
its preventive measures, the NUP lost the election to the NLD, which for ‘the Lady’, Aung San Suu Kyi. Her interviews with journalist Alan Clements, described in
took 392 of the 485 contested seats. Slorc barred the elected members Voices of Hope (1997), often intermingle politics and Buddhism. Freedom from Fear (1991) is a
of parliament from assuming power, however, decreeing that a state- collection of her writings on topics ranging from her father to winning the Nobel Peace Prize.
approved constitution had to be passed by national referendum first. In Letters from Burma (1997) features a collection of letters Suu Kyi wrote on Burmese culture for
October 1990 the military raided NLD offices and arrested key leaders. a Japanese publication.
Since that time over 100 elected parliamentarians have been disquali-
fied, imprisoned, exiled or killed. Some observers wonder if the election
Had the NLD been
was a ruse to get opposition out in the open, where they could be more In 1998 18 foreign activists were arrested in Yangon in 1998 for dis-
installed in government,
easily crushed. tributing antigovernment leaflets. In the same year Suu Kyi attempted to
Suu Kyi wouldn’t have
Before her arrest in 1989, Suu Kyi had been appointed secretary gen- leave Yangon to meet with supporters outside the city but was blocked
been the leader. She may
eral of the NLD. The main NLD candidates in line for any potential by the military and forcibly returned to Yangon. In 1999 Suu Kyi’s Brit-
have been given a high
premiership that might have occurred if the 1990 election results had ish husband, Oxford professor Michael Aris, died of cancer shortly after
position, though the
been recognised by the current regime were U Aung Shwe, U Tin Oo Yangon denied him a visa to see Suu Kyi one last time in Myanmar. Al-
constitution forbids those
and U Kyi Maung, all ex-officers. It was widely acknowledged, even back though they hadn’t seen each other since January 1996, Suu Kyi felt she
married to foreigners
in 1990, that Slorc would never allow a person of Aung San Suu Kyi’s had no choice but to stay in Myanmar, fearing that if she left the country
from holding high public
background (an ex-resident of the country, and married to a Briton) to to visit her husband’s deathbed in England, she would be refused re-entry
office.
run for office; it was equally acknowledged that the candidates who stood and forced into exile.
the best chance of acceptance by the military dictatorship were those with Suu Kyi made a second attempt to leave Yangon to meet with support-
a military background. It turned out that even this was not enough to ers in September 2000, but was stopped at a military roadblock. After
make the ruling junta relinquish control. spending six days in her car by the roadside, Suu Kyi was once again
After the events of 1988–89, the world press at first gave amazingly placed under house arrest.
little coverage to politics in the country that had been renamed Myanmar. In October 2000, secret talks began between Suu Kyi and the junta – Aung San Suu Kyi
In January 1991, Suu Kyi was awarded the Sakharov Prize for freedom the most significant step towards reconciliation since the elections. Bro- returned to Burma from
of thought by the European Parliament, and in October of the same year kered by Rizali Ismail, a former Malaysian diplomat and special envoy Britain in 1998 to tend
she was honoured with the Nobel Peace Prize. Another international to UN Secretary General Kofi Annan, the talks resulted in the release of to her dying mother. At
honour came her way in June 1992 when Unesco awarded Suu Kyi the hundreds of political prisoners. A very noticeable result of the talks was the time disquiet with
Simón Bolivar Prize. In May 1995, Suu Kyi was honoured with a fourth the cessation of crude attacks against Suu Kyi in the Myanmar media. The the government was at
international award when India presented the leader, in absentia, with the NLD in return stopped its direct criticism of the Myanmar government. a peak
Jawaharlal Nehru Award for International Understanding. As the world In May 2002 Suu Kyi was released from house arrest and immediately
media began to follow events in Myanmar, prodemocracy elements, both announced that her demands for political reform had not changed as a
within the country and abroad, proved themselves to be much more result of the talks with the junta. Her unconditional release promised
media savvy than the military junta. The democratisation of ‘Burma’, as the opposition leader freedom of movement for the first time in over
most prodemocracy groups still call the country, soon became a cause 12 years. In the weeks following her release she visited NLD offices in
Aung San Suu Kyi has
célèbre for sundry activists and Hollywood celebrities. townships in the Rangoon area, and in late June made a triumphant visit
been under house arrest
Much to the joy of the Burmese people and her supporters abroad, the to Mandalay. It was Suu Kyi’s first trip to Myanmar’s second-largest city
three times (from July
government released Suu Kyi from house arrest in July 1995 after nearly since 1989 (her September 2000 attempt to visit Mandalay was thwarted
1989 to July 1995; from
six years. Suu Kyi’s detention was the most potent symbol of government by the military).
September 2000 to May
repression and the biggest magnet for international attention, but many In May 2003, while touring Sagaing District outside Budalin (north of
2002; and from May 2003
other high-level dissidents, including the NLD’s Tin U and Kyi Maung, Monywa), Suu Kyi and a party of 250 NLD members were attacked. It’s
to the present).
were also released at this time – not from house arrest, but from prison. believed as many as 100 people were killed. Many others were held in
For several months Suu Kyi was allowed to address crowds of supporters detention. Suu Kyi spent several months in jail – and underwent a hunger
from her residence. In May and September 1996, Suu Kyi held a congress strike. She was eventually transferred to her house. She is still there.
of NLD members in a bold political gambit to demonstrate that the
NLD was still an active political force. The junta responded by detaining THE WORLD & MYANMAR
hundreds who attended the congress and the street leading to Suu Kyi’s To improve its image, Slorc hired a Washington, DC public-relations
residence was blockaded, prohibiting her from making speeches at her firm for help, which suggested changing its name to the State Peace &
residence. Development Council (SPDC), which it did in November 1997.
1962 1975 1988 1990

Ne Win establishes power after military coup Massive earthquake rocks Bagan On 8/8 (8 August), huge prodemocracy nonviolent marches; army NLD earns 82% of votes in election but the military refuses to hand
kills over 3000 over power
46 H I S T O R Y • • T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r 47
Initially after 1988, the West established embargoes on arms sales 1994 visit to Yangon by Chinese Premier Li Peng – the man who ordered
and most foreign aid to Myanmar. But some companies – such as the the Tiananmen Square massacre one year after Myanmar’s bloody 1988
UK’s Premier Oil, France’s Total and USA’s Unocal – helped develop putdown – reaffirmed China’s firm approval of Myanmar’s government.
offshore gas fields. Stronger international sanctions were taken in 1997 Meanwhile the repression of free speech and other human rights con-
by the USA, the regime’s harshest critic, when it banned new investment tinues under the SPDC leadership. A report commissioned by the In-
by American companies in Myanmar. Strong lobbying by activists and ternational Commission of Jurists (ICJ) in Geneva describes systematic
threats of consumer boycotts forced some major companies (including human-rights violations, including arbitrary arrests of anyone opposed to
PepsiCo, Heineken, Carlsberg and Levi Strauss) to either pull out or the junta, the torture of detainees, severe media restrictions, forced relo-
decide against investing in the country. cation of 500,000 urban dwellers, and forced conscription of civilians to
In November 1999, the UN International Labour Organization took serve as anything from porters to human minesweepers for the military.
the unprecedented step of recommending sanctions against Myanmar for (See p56 for examples of media restrictions, and p65 for how censor-
its use of civilians for forced labour and treacherous tasks of porterage ship even affects rock music albums.) The government also frequently
for the military (including serving as ‘human landmine detectors’). Its requests ‘volunteer beautification’ labour (in effect, forced labour) from
174 member nations were advised to review their links with Myanmar city, town and village residents, requiring them to paint their houses,
and ensure they did not support forced labour there. In June 2001, UN dig drainage ditches, build walls and weed the roadside. (Apparently
Considering the US
agencies in Myanmar warned in a joint letter to their headquarters that forced labour has decreased since the early 1990s, according to Amnesty
renewal of ‘Most
Myanmar was facing a humanitarian crisis and that it was a ‘moral and International, but is still very much in use. See www.amnesty.org or www
Favoured Nation’ trade
ethical necessity’ for the international community to extend more aid. .irrawaddy.org, among other sites, for updates on this issue.)
status for China, and
The letter stated that one-quarter of Burmese babies were born under- Myanmar gained some international muscle with its controversial
China remains a foreign-
weight and, as of the end of 1999, an estimated 530,000 people were membership of Asean, which it joined in 1997. Despite some murmurs
Although Ne Win had trade hub for Asia,
HIV-positive. The letter also stated that Myanmar only receives annual of discontent regarding the arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi, no Asean officials
retired from all official Myanmar’s government
foreign aid equivalent to about US$1 per capita, compared with US$35 have directly confronted the generals on the issue. Some commentators
positions in 1988, he was believes it need not fear
for Cambodia and US$68 for Laos. wonder whether the 2006 Asean summit, scheduled for Yangon, will go
widely believed to call trade sanctions with
In a controversial move in 2001, Japan broke ranks in the embargo forward if Suu Kyi isn’t free by the time.
the shots for many years the West.
on nonhumanitarian aid to Myanmar when it offered US$28 million in In 2004 Prime Minister Khin Nyunt, a disciple of Ne Win, who sought
thereafter – possibly up
technical assistance to repair the Baluchaung hydroelectric power plant to re-create himself after Ne Win’s death in 2002 with the seven-step
till his death in December
in Kayah State as an incentive for the regime to press ahead with recon- ‘Roadway to Democracy’ programme, was ousted by hard-line Than
2002.
ciliation talks with Suu Kyi. Shwe, who claims he will continue the roadway. See p34 for more on
The sanctions got stronger following Aung San Suu Kyi’s third ar- recent events in Myanmar.
rest in 2003. US President George W Bush authorised full economic
sanctions, which resulted in foreign banks in Myanmar packing up and
leaving. The wording of EU’s sanctions, however, allowed France’s Total
gas company to continue operating there. Much criticism has focussed
on whether forced labour was used from 1995 to 1998 to build Total’s
Yadana pipeline, which reportedly generates anywhere from US$150 mil-
lion to US$400 million annually.
Critics of the use of sanctions argue that these measures hurt the local
workforce. After US sanctions, many garment factories, virtually all of
which are privately owned, closed down, reportedly leading to the loss of
40,000 to 60,000 jobs. For more on the sanctions debate, see p17.
Despite the Myanmar’s government’s human-rights record, a number
of foreign investors – most of them Asian (particularly Chinese, but
also Singaporean, Japanese, Indian and Thai) – continue to invest huge
amounts of foreign currency into private development projects, espe-
cially in the Yangon to Mandalay corridor. See p22 for more on foreign
investment.
The land border between Myanmar and China stands wide open for
legal and illegal trade, and acts as the main supply line for millions of
dollars worth of Chinese weaponry destined for Myanmar’s military,
along with another estimated US$1 billion in consumer goods annually. A
1996 1997 2003 2004

The Government’s ‘Visit Myanmar Year’ prompts ongoing tourism Myanmar joins Asean Aung San Suu Kyi placed under house arrest (for third time); USA Myanmar opens world’s largest tiger reserve, ousts prime minister
boycott and EU impose tougher sanctions
48 www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e 49
towns is rare. Many families put coconut symbols of the house guardian
The Culture nat (spirit) inside (see p000). TheCultr/RigonBdsmIMyar/The37Nt
The bulk of village life revolves around the farm. Here Yangon’s politics
or dreams of wealth can pale in importance to the season, the crop, the
NATIONAL PSYCHE level of the river (where they bathe, clean and get their drinking water)
Although isolated, subjugated and poor, the Myanmar people can be and Buddha. One local outside Shwebo told us, ‘All I want is K2000 a
as proud of their country and culture as any nationality you’ll meet. day for rice to feed my family.’
Locals gush over past kings, pwe (festivals), mohinga (noodles with
chicken or fish) breakfasts, great temples and, for many, Theravada
Buddhism itself. Of course Buddhism here comes with a heavy dosage DO’S & DON’TS
of bamahsan chinn (Burmeseness) – a Buddhism-influenced complex Etiquette
word describing the gentle personality of many, which includes undying Many locals are too kind to mention to a traveller when they’re being insensitive. So, let it be your
respect for elders, modesty in dress, and a preference for subtlety rather role to (politely) tell fellow travellers when they’re acting inappropriately. Here are the basics:
than loudness or directness. Another trait is ah har de, a sense of not
When visiting a Buddhist sight, don’t wear shoes, shorts, short skirts, or have exposed shoulders.
wanting to ‘make waves’ or pass on unpleasant news. Perhaps telling is
Pico Iyer’s great piece on hanging out with Myanmar students in Video Don’t thrust a camera into a monk’s (or anyone’s) face for a photo.
Nights in Kathmandu (1988); though released on the eve of the explosive Don’t pose with, sit on, or strike Buddha images.
prodemocracy marches of that year, students talk of moonwalking, and
Living Silence: Burma Take your shoes off (not necessarily socks) when entering private homes.
do not even show a glimpse of the bubbling discontent.
under Military Rule (2001), Don’t touch somebody on the head (including patting a child’s head).
Even small-scale open dialogue is not an everyday aspect of life. One
by Christina Fink, sums up
exiled Myanmar man explained: ‘The most important thing I got out of Don’t point your feet at anybody or anything – apologise if you accidentally brush someone
Myanmar’s military years
being in England was watching political TV shows, where people were with your foot.
and how the military
arguing, explaining different viewpoints. That never happens at home.’ When shaking hands or handing over something, do so with your right hand, while touching
affects various aspects of
It tends to surprise locals if an American tourist vocalises disapproval your right elbow with your left hand.
life – all peppered with
of George W Bush’s policies, for example. Locals here tend to cheer for
fascinating quotes from Don’t step over somebody who is sitting or lying on the floor (such as on a boat deck).
Arsenal, Manchester United and Chelsea.
a wide cross-section of
Myanmar people. What to Give
LIFESTYLE Many travellers are prone to give gifts to locals in this impoverished country. Gifts can be big
Exiled writer Pascal Khoo Thwe writes that, growing up in Myanmar’s
thrills – and are often asked for by children around the country – but foreigners should exercise
hills, traditional family life meant that ‘Earth is round at school and flat
care when deciding what and where and to whom they give things to. One way to discourage
at home’, meaning some aspects of modern life are left, along with your
kids from begging, and to show respect, is giving toys or kid-related gifts either directly to their
shoes, outside the door at home.
parents or to schools or monasteries. Here are a few gift suggestions:
Families in Myanmar are big, and the birth – of a boy or girl – is a big
occasion. While boys are coddled more, girls are equally welcomed, as Donate school supplies – such as cheap pens and pencils bought locally – all of which are
they’re expected to look after parents later in life. You might find three or highly sought.
four generations of a family living in a two- or three-room house. Some Bring self-made or bought English-language tapes to give out to villagers who can’t afford
thatched huts in the countryside have generators pumping life into the English classes.
TV a couple hours a night. Running water outside the cities and bigger Bring some popular English-language magazines and books; locals love to read, and mate-
rial is hard to find in cash-poor Myanmar; exercise care in handing over any that could carry
political overtones (such as the New Yorker or the Economist or Myanmar-related books); hand
TOP FIVE FIRST QUESTIONS ASKED discreetly over to new friends in their homes.
Burma or Myanmar? Britain renamed ‘Myanma’ as Burma (after the majority Bamar, or Other popular gifts include Western T-shirts, lipstick, toys, baseball-style caps, stickers and
Burmese, people); the junta restored the original name of Myanmar in 1989; ‘Burmese’ in this chocolates (though heat ruins them in a hurry).
book refers to the food, the Bamar and the language. Bring photographs of your city, home, family – or postcards you can leave.
Men in skirts? Most Myanmar men wear longyi (saronglike wraparound ‘skirts’); it’s easy to Instantly appearing images on digital cameras’ viewfinder screens draw much applause from
understand why when the heat hits you. locals.
Mud on face? Women, kids and some men sprinkle, stripe or blotch their faces with tan If asked, make simple suggestions of what tourists might be interested in, to prompt grass-
thanakha (powdered bark) as make-up. roots entrepreneurship (eg ‘night market walking tours’ etc).
Is that blood? No. The red droplets in corners and sidewalks are relinquished bits of betel, Donate to villages seeking aid for health clinics (about 0.4% of the national budget goes
made from the chopped nut and a paste of slaked lime; you’ll see betel sold from streetside to health care); at research time, we bumped into a Swiss tourist who contacted the Bagan
stands, wrapped into small leaves. Department of Archaeology seeking to fund placing a glass shield over unprotected 800-
How to say ‘thanks’? ‘Cè-zù-bèh’. year-old murals.
50 T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S t a t e s & D i v i s i o n s o f M y a n m a r 51
0 200 km
In the cities, large apartment blocks are connected to more-or-less STATES & DIVISIONS OF MYANMAR 0 120 miles
around-the-clock electricity. Residents are better educated, sometimes
working as lawyers, doctors, clerks and officials – that is, they work in CHINA
(TIBET)
buildings. They’re a bit more internationally aware, and likely to speak
more English. Where electricity exists, it invariably clicks off frequently
– when it does listen up for the ‘ahhhs’ and laughter that good-naturedly
BHUTAN
follows.
For Buddhists, especially, the acquisition ofspiritualmerit – by giving
to monks, adding gold-leaf layers to Buddha images – helps worshippers
achieve enlightenment. This is why locals in towns that lack a health KACHIN
clinic may bang alms bowls on the side of the road for donations to help INDIA STATE
Myitkyina
build a new pagoda, for example.
Death is a big deal, though mourned for less time than in much of the CHINA
West. To miss a funeral is an unimaginable faux pas. If a heated argument BANGLADESH
goes too far, the ultimate capper is to yell, ‘Oh yeah? Don’t come to my
funeral when I die’. Cemeteries are not well tended, and rarely visited, as
many consider it bad luck to go near the dead (often the widowed aren’t SAGAING
DIVISION
invited to wedding parties, and we’ve seen fishers do their thing while
ignoring a floating body no-one dares to touch). Hakha
POPULATION Sagaing
Mandalay
About 11% of Myanmar’s 52 million people live in the capital, Yangon. SHAN
STATE
CHIN
In Myanmar’s tain It’s estimated, though, that seven in 10 people are involved in agriculture. STATE
MANDALAY
(divisions) the Bamar Unlike many developing-world countries, there isn’t a massive flocking DIVISION
Taunggyi
(Burman) people are in to the big cities: jobs are scarce in the capital with inflation soaring at 50%
the majority (Yangon, Ay- and international banks (and their potential credit) fleeing in 2003 due to Sittwe Magwe
eyarwady, Bago, Magwe, economic sanctions imposed by the international community. LAOS
MAGWE
DIVISION Loikaw
Mandalay, Sagaing, Historically, the diverse ethnic make-up of the country has been sepa-
KAYAH
Tanintharyi) but in the pyi rated by its topography. The broad central plain, with the Ayeyarwady RAKHAING STATE
(states) the non-Bamar River and Myanmar’s most fertile soil, has been run by whichever group STATE
BAGO
are in the majority (Shan, was strongest (usually the Bamar, or Burmese, in the past few hundred DIVISION
Kachin, Chin, Rakhaing, years). Most ethnic groups continue to live in some sort of isolation in
Kayah, Kayin, Mon). the mountains lining much of Myanmar’s international borders, notably KAYIN
the Shan, Kayah and Kayin (Karen) in the east; the Kachin to the north; Bago
STATE
and the Chin and Rakhaing to the west. Pathein YANGON

Hpa-an
There are roughly 71 people per sq km (compared to 939 per sq km AYEYARWADY
DIVISION
YANGON Mawlamyine
DIVISION
in neighbouring Bangladesh), and outside Yangon or Mandalay, there’s THAILAND
MON
Laos-like elbow room. STATE
ETHNICITY
One of the more exciting aspects of travel in Myanmar is getting the op-
portunity to experience a corner of Asia that in many ways has changed
Ethnologists have Dawei
little since British colonial times. Due to its isolation – self-imposed and
suggested that there
otherwise – Myanmar has yet to be completely overwhelmed by outside TANINTHARYI
are actually some 135
clothing influences. Nowhere else in Southeast Asia will you see so Andaman
DIVISION
distinct ethnic groups Islands
many sarongs, turbans and other exotic apparel. Of course, differences (INDIA)
living in Myanmar.
in dress are just a hint of the distinctions between Myanmar’s diverse
ethnic populations.
Officially Myanmar’s 50-plus million residents (not including Chinese, ANDAMAN
Indian, Nepalese and other groups) are divided into eight nationalities SEA
Gulf of
– the Bamar, Shan, Mon, Kayin, Kayah, Chin, Kachin and Rakhaing – but Thailand
the Myanmar government further subdivides these eight groups into 67
subgroups. We’ve made a list of the 10 groups visitors to Myanmar are
most likely to encounter or read about.
As in many other ethnically (and religiously) diverse countries, feelings
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of pride and prejudice cause friction between

MYANMAR: Myanmar’s ethnic groups. Ask a Bamar (or SUBJUGATION

ETHNO-GEOGRAPHY a Shan or a Kayin) their opinion about their With the complete takeover of Myanmar by the British in 1886, new borders were drawn. As
countrymen of different ethnic or religious with so many of the boundaries superimposed on maps during the European colonisation of the
backgrounds to get an idea of what kinds of world, these borders had little to do with ethnic groupings, and there were many old rivals and
INDIA challenges governments in Myanmar have enemies within the borders of British Burma. The colonisers managed to keep animosity between
CHINA
faced in their efforts to keep the peace and ethnic groups under controlby utilising the carrot of semi-autonomy or the stick of arrest and
preserve the borders. imprisonment. Over a century later, despite a different bunch of rulers, little has changed.

Myitkyina
In recent years, there’s been a massive in- Acts of insurgency between Bamar-majority government troops and minority ethnic groups
flux of Chinese people into northern Burma, that smouldered for four decades after independence have been largely quelled. Groups that
evident in Mandalay and certainly in border signed ceasefire agreements with the government (the Kachin, Kayah etc) have been granted
towns such as Mong La, where the yuan is limited economic autonomy. Those groups that continue to fight the government (some Shan
Lashio the local currency. and Kayin) are dealt with severely. In rebel-controlled areas, government troops have been ac-
Hakha
cused of using rape as a weapon and adopting a scorched-earth policy that regularly sends

Sagaing Mandalay Bamar groups of refugees fleeing across the borders into Thailand and Bangladesh. Some observers of
The Bamar – also known as Burman or Bur- politics in Myanmar predict that, given a choice, many of Myanmar’s ethnic groups would opt
LAOS
mese – make up the majority (68%) of the for independence and break away from Bamar-controlled Myanmar.
Taunggyi population and, not surprisingly, rule the
Loikaw
country. Thought to have originally migrated
Sittwe
from the Himalaya, the Bamar ruled much dered the southern Chin Hills. The practice died out after WWII, but in

of what is now Myanmar from Bagan by the many Chin villages (particularly in the more traditional southern areas)
THAILAND 11th century. When the British conquered you can see a few tattooed grannies going about their daily chores.

Bay of Bago
Hpa-an Myanmar in the 19th century, it was the Many Chin, particularly in the north, are Christian, following the ef-
Bengal Bamar who had to relinquish the most. Many forts of American missionaries during the British colonial period. Chin

YANGON
Pathein Mawlamyine ancient court customs and arts were lost as State is restricted to travellers, but can be visited with government per-

the Bamar monarchy was abolished. mission (p000). Kalaymyo (p000) is a half-Chin town that can be reached,
WestrnMyam/ChiS AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcKalymo
Devout Theravada Buddhists, the Bamar by air, without permit.

Chin
Kachin
Dawei
– from the top military generals to trishaw
drivers – believe that being Buddhist is a key Kachin

Shan
Kayin aspect of being Bamar, and the Myanmar The Kachin (who call themselves Jingpaw) were heavily targeted by
(Karen) media reports daily on the merit-making of Christian missionaries during British colonial times. The Baptists seemed
Bamar
(Burman)
Rakhaing
Mon
Kayah
top officials at the country’s principal Bud-
dhist places of worship. Government nation-
building efforts have included establishing
to have been the most successful, with the Catholics following close
behind. As much of the Kachin State lies above the tropic of Cancer,
the climate is more extreme – stifling hot in the summer months and
the Bamar language (Burmese) as the lan- downright cold in the winter – and the Kachin seem to have abandoned
guage of instruction in schools throughout their traditional dress for Western clothes that can be easily changed to
ANDAMAN SEA
Myanmar. So most non-Bamar speak Bur- suit the seasons.
mese as a second language. About the only vestige of Kachin dress that foreign visitors are likely
to encounter are men’s longyi (saronglike lower garment) of indigo,
Chin green and deep-purple plaid. During festive occasions Kachin dress is
The Chin inhabits the mountainous region (mostly corresponding with quite impressive. Women sport finely woven wool skirts decorated with
Chin State) that borders on India and Bangladesh to the west. In the zigzag or diamond patterns and dark blouses festooned with hammered
Travellers can visit the
past, the Chin, as with most highland dwellers, led labour-intensive lives silver medallions and tassels. These exotic blouses are admired by the
Kachin in Myitkyina
and their relatively simple traditional dress reflected this. Men wore loin- Bamar and until fairly recently it was not uncommon for photo studios
(p000), home to the
cloths in the warmer months and draped blankets over themselves when in Bamar-majority towns as far south as Pyay to keep a few Kachin NortheasnMym/iktoKahMyn
Kachin State Cultural

the weather turned cool. The women wore poncholike garments woven blouses on hand so that Bamar women could wear them while posing
Museum, Bhamo (p000
with intricate geometric patterns. These garments and Chin blankets are for photographs. Northeasn
) and – with a permit

highly sought-after by textile collectors today. Myanmr/itkoKhBam
– Putao (p000).
The most extraordinary Chin fashion of old was the custom of tattoo- Kayah NortheasnMym/TFNorthPua
ing the women’s faces. Chin facial tattoos cover the whole face – starting Also known as the Karenni or Red Karen, the Kayah are settled in the
at just above the bridge of the nose and radiating out in a pattern of dark mountainous isolation of Kayah State – an area completely closed off
lines that resemble a spider’s web. Even the eyelids were tattooed. The to travellers.
tattooing was traditionally done to girls once they reached the age of 12 As with many of Myanmar’s ethnic groups that traditionally practised
or 13. Legend has it that this practice was initiated to keep young Chin animism, the Kayah were targeted for conversion to Christianity by
maidens from being coveted by Rakhaing princes whose kingdom bor- Baptist and Catholic missionaries during the colonial period. The name
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‘Red Karen’ refers to the favoured colour of the Kayah traditional dress, of this experiment was a feeling of unity among the many Naga tribes,
and the fact that their apparel resembles that of some Kayin (Karen) which led to an organised Naga independence movement.
tribes – a resemblance that caused the Kayah to be classified by colonis- The Naga sport one of the world’s most exotic traditional costumes.
ers and missionaries as ‘Karen’. Today the Kayah make up a very small Naga men at festival time wear striking ceremonial headdresses made
percentage of the population of Myanmar – perhaps less than 1% – and up of feathers, tufts of hair and cowry shells, and carry wicked spears,
the vast majority lead agrarian lives within Kayah State, much as their giving them a look that somehow seems vaguely African, Polynesian and
ancestors have done for centuries. A significant number of Kayah also Amazonian – like some fantasy ensemble cooked up by Hollywood.
live in Thailand’s Mae Hong Son Province.
Rakhaing
Kayin The Rakhaing (formerly called Arakanese), who make up about 4% of the
The Kayin (also known as Karen) are a large and diverse group, divided population of Myanmar, are principally adherents of Buddhism. Their Besides the ruins at
into numerous subgroups. They were originally animists, but some Kayin ancient capital was centred at Mrauk U in what is now the northern Mrauk U (p000), the WestrnMyam/NohRkingMrauU/Sts
villages were heavily targeted by Christian missionaries in the 19th and Rakhaing State, which borders Bangladesh. Their language is akin to most visible vestige of
early 20th centuries, while other villages converted to Buddhism. Bamar but, due to their geographical location, they have absorbed a fair the Rakhaing’s illustrious
The Kayin are an independent-minded people but the sheer diversity amount of culture from the Indian subcontinent. In the eyes of most past is the Mahamuni
of the many Kayin subgroups has made it impossible for them to achieve Bamar, the Rakhaing are a Creole race – a mixture of Bamar and Indian Buddha image (p000), Sights/MandlyBuimge
any real cohesion for achieving greater political power. To this day Bud- – a perception that Buddhist Rakhaing strongly resent. now in Mandalay. Sittwe
dhist Kayin often side with the Buddhist Bamar against their Christian Rakhaing State also has a minority population of Muslim Rakhaing, is home to a Rakhaing
Kayin kin. The recruitment of child soldiers for rebel groups is not un- who refer to themselves as Rohingya. State Culture Museum
Presently the only place
common in this neck of the woods. This came to the world’s attention The Rakhaing are skilled weavers and are known in Myanmar for their (p000).WestrnMyam/NohRkingStwes/ah CultrMsem
in Kayin State that travel-

most recently when a Christian Kayin group calling itself ‘God’s Army’ eye-catching and intricately patterned longyi.
lers can visit is Hpa-an
made headlines with its brief armed struggle against the Myanmar gov-
(p000).
SoutheasrnMym/KiSteHpa-n
ernment. The group was led by young twin brothers who reputedly had Shan
magical powers and took up arms when they were only nine years old. The Shan call themselves Tai (‘Shan’ is actually a Bamar word derived
The typical dress of both the Kayin men and women is a longyi with from the word ‘Siam’). The name they call themselves is significant, as
horizontal stripes (a pattern that is reserved exclusively for women in the Shan are related ethnically, culturally and linguistically to Tai peoples
other ethnic groups). The Kayin are thought to make up about 7% of the in neighbouring Thailand, Laos and China’s Yunnan Province. In fact, if
total population of Myanmar. you’ve spent some time in northern Thailand or Laos and learned some
of the respective languages, you’ll find you can have a basic conversation
Mon with the Shan. The Shan are also Theravada Buddhists and at one time
The Mon (also called the Tailing by Western historians) were one of the they fought the Bamar for control of Myanmar. Today they make up
earliest inhabitants of Myanmar and their rule stretched into what is about 9% of the population.
now Thailand. As happened with the Cham in Vietnam and the Phuan Traditionally, the Shan wore baggy trousers and floppy, wide-brimmed
in Laos, the Mon were gradually conquered by neighbouring kingdoms sun hats, and the men were known for their faith in talismanic tattoos.
and their influence waned until they were practically unknown outside Nowadays Shan town-dwellers commonly dress in the Bamar longyi and
present-day Myanmar. As in Thailand, which also has a Mon minority, are mostly indistinguishable from the Bamar, except on festival occasions
the Mon have almost completely assimilated with the Bamar and in most when they proudly sport their ethnic costumes.
ways seem indistinguishable from them. In the precolonial era past, Mon In former times the Shan were ruled by local lords or chieftains called
Buddhist sites – including Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya – were appropriated sao pha (sky lords), a word that was corrupted by the Bamar to saw-
Many parts of Shan State
by the Bamar (though the Golden Rock is still in Mon State), and Mon bwa.
(Myanmar’s largest) are
tastes in art and architecture were borrowed as well. Today the Mon make The Shan are said to be very fond of gambling and festivals, and Shan
restricted to travellers,
up just over 2% of the population of Myanmar, but Mon art and culture women are admired throughout Myanmar for their beauty and light
but it’s possible to get
have influenced that of the Bamar quite thoroughly, as a trip to the Mon complexions.
to many areas, including
Cultural Museum (p000) in Mawlamyine will attest.
SoutheasrnMym/Stawline(mou)/Sghts&AcvieMonCulrasm
around Inle Lake (p000

It is only possible to visit Wa NortheasnMym/Il
), Kengtung (p000) and

the Naga during their Naga During British-colonial times the Wa (who come from the still-remote Lake NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasntg
Hsipaw (p000).
New Year celebrations The Naga are mainly settled in a mountainous region of eastern India northeastern hills of Shan State) were hated and feared. The British dis- NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashHp
in January, held near known as Nagaland, but significant numbers live in the western Sagaing tinguished two groups of Wa according to how receptive they were to
Khamti, by taking a costly Division between the Indian border and the Chindwin River. the coloniser’s attempts to control them. The ‘Wild Wa’ were headhunt-
government-sponsored When the British arrived in the mid-19th century, the Naga were a ers, and decorated their villages with the severed heads of vanquished
tour (p000). Informati/ TusInformati
fragmented but fearsome collection of tribes. Headhunting was a tradi- enemies to propitiate the spirits that guarded over their opium fields.
tion among them and for many decades they resisted British rule, though (Apparently they only stopped the practice in the 1970s!) The so-called
a lack of cooperation between the tribes hindered their efforts to remain ‘Tame Wa’ allowed the colonisers to pass through their territory unim-
independent. A turnaround came about during WWI when the British peded, yet the area inhabited by the Wa – east of the upper Thanlwin
recruited nearly 17,000 Naga to fight in Europe. The unexpected result (Salween) River in northern Shan State – was never completely pacified
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by the British. Nowadays rumours abound of the 20,000-strong United the U Nu period, Buddhism functioned as a state religion of sorts – as
Wa State Army, led by Bao Youxiang (aka ‘Chairman Bao’); an army sup- embodied in such catch phrases as ‘the Socialist Way to Nibbana’. Nowa-
With a guide, you can posedly highly militarised producers of opium and methamphetamine. days there is complete freedom of religion, though within the government
visit Wa villages outside They often make headlines in neighbouring Thailand due to frequent Buddhists tend to attain higher rank more easily than non-Buddhists.
Kengtung (p000).NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasnKgtu
border skirmishes with Thai military and police forces.
Buddhism in Myanmar
MEDIA EARLY HISTORY
Though media sources have proliferatedin recent years – 15 new domes- The Mon were the first people in Myanmar to practise Theravada Bud-
tic journals and papers in the first few years of this century – very little dhism. King Asoka, the great Indian emperor, is known to have sent mis-
objective ‘hard news’ gets splashed on their pages. Much of Myanmar, for sions here (known then as the ‘Golden Land’) during the 3rd century BC.
example, learned about the ousting of their prime minister Khin Nyunt in A second wave is thought to have arrived via Sinhalese missionaries from
2004 via international TV channels or the BBC website. You can get the present-day Sri Lanka, sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries.
flavour of media’s (enforced) censorship from the pages of the govern- By the 9th century the Pyu of northern Myanmar were combining
ment’s voice piece in English, the New Light of Myanmar, whose repertoire Theravada with elements of Mahayana and Tantric Buddhism brought
includes anti-West poems. There’s also an agenda in place where even the from their homelands in the Tibetan Plateau. During the early Bagan
slightest of strayers get arrested. Apparently novelists can’t use the name era (11th century), Bamar king Anawrahta decided that the Buddhism
‘Suu’ in books because ofits association with Aung San Suu Kyi. When practised in his realm should be ‘purified’ from all non-Theravada ele-
Nelson Mandela won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993, the story was cen- ments, a task he set for Mon monks captured by his armies in Thaton,
sored because the prize could be associated with Aung San Suu Kyi. in southern Myanmar. However, Buddhism here has never completely
In 1999 documentary filmmakers Aung Pwint and Thaung Tun were shed Tantric, Hindu and animist elements, but remains predominately
arrested for videotaping grim details of everyday life, including footage Theravada (only 1% of the Buddhists, most of whom are of Chinese
of forced labour. They remain in prison. In 2003 troubles arose from a descent, practise Mahayana Buddhism today).
football article on a team fined for not appearing in a tournament! Loose
links between the fine and the government, plus questions surrounding THERAVADA & MAHAYANA
the government’s handling of US$4 million from an international grant Theravada Buddhism (also followed in Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka and
to foster football programs, was enough to land the four writers in jail, Thailand) differs from Hinduism, Judaism, Islam or Christianity in that
one of whom briefly faced a death sentence. it is not centred around a god or gods, but rather a psycho-philosophical
The 9.15pm national news broadcast nightly is read by a no-smiles system. Today it covers a wide range of interpretations of the basic beliefs,
woman (often sporting a 1968 beehive do) in front of a mural of a power which all start from the enlightenment of Siddhartha Gautama, a prince-
plant. She mostly gives national news on the government’s achievements. turned-ascetic, and referred to as the Buddha, in northern India around
Some locals get their news from fascinating grainy newsreels that precede 2500 years ago.
all cinema showings, which show General Than Shwe overseeing new Neither the Buddha (which means ‘The Enlightened’) nor his im-
construction projects. mediate pupils ever wrote the dhamma (Buddhist teachings) down, so
after Gautama’s death a schism developed and today there are two major
RELIGION schools of Buddhism. The Theravada (Doctrine of the Elders) school
About 87% of the people of Myanmar are Buddhist. Locals are proud of holds that to achieve nibbana (nirvana), the eventual aim of every Bud-
their religion and keen to discuss it. Knowing a little about it is a prerequi- dhist, you must ‘work out your own salvation with diligence’. In other
site for outsiders wishing to better understand the Burmese mind. During words, it is up to each individual to work out their own fate.
The Mahayana (Large Vehicle) school holds that individuals should
forego the experience of nibbana until all humankind is ready for salva-
HOW MANY DID YOU SAY? tion. The goal is to become a Bodhisattva (Buddha-to-be), rather than a
The Myanmar people may seem, to outsiders, to have an imaginative understanding of maths. fully enlightened Buddha.
We had a resident of Mrauk U tell us, in all earnestness, the local area had six million temples; a The Mahayana school does not reject the other school, but claims it
Sittwe resident insisted the largest minority group in the city of 150,000 were the ‘800,000 Mus- has extended it. The Theravadins, on the other hand, see Mahayana as Many visitors come to
lims’, and a trishaw driver in Mandalay suggested that to start a guesthouse you’d need – after a misinterpretation of the Buddha’s original teachings. Of the two, the Myanmar to meditate;
spending several minutes tabbing it up by pen and paper – about US$400 million. Minimum. Theravada is more austere and ascetic, and, some might say, harder to see p000 for a list of
Directoy/CusMdan
Locals count 4000 islands in the Mergui Archipelago, while detailed British surveyors found only practise. monasteries.
804. Historical accounts include hundreds of thousands of soldiers marching to battle; numbers
often contradictory to later British accounts. The age of the ‘antique’ you’re holding is often TENETS
wildly, um, optimistic too. Buddha taught that the world is primarily characterised by dukkha (un-
Nothing to fuss over, though. Locals are more accustomed to counting with the lakh (equal to satisfactoriness), anicca (impermanence) and anatta (insubstantiality),
100,000) than a million, so it’s possible a zero or two gets added there. Also, Myanmar’s largest bill and that even our happiest moments in life are only temporary, empty
is just K1000 (worth about US$1.05 at research time), and many people are happy to earn K3000 and unsatisfactory.
a day. For nearly everyone, US$40,000 is about as likely to fall into their laps as US$400 million. The ultrapragmatic Buddhist perception of cause and effect – kamma
in Pali, karma in Sanskrit, kan in Burmese – holds that birth inevitably
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leads to sickness, old age and death, hence every life is insecure and sub-
ject to dukkha. Through rebirth, the cycle of thanthaya (samsara in Pali) NUMBER NINE, NUMBER NINE
repeats itself endlessly as long as ignorance and craving remain. Myanmar astrology, based on the Indian system of naming the zodiacal planets for Hindu deities,
Only by reaching a state of complete wisdom and nondesire can one continues to be an important factor deciding proper dates for weddings, funerals, ordinations
attain true happiness. To achieve wisdom and eliminate craving one must and other events. Burma became independent at 4.20am on 4 January 1948, per U Nu’s counsel
turn inward and master one’s own mind through meditation, most com- with an astrologer. Numerology plays a similar role in Myanmar.
monly known to the Burmese as bhavana or kammahtan. Nearly everyone in Myanmar reveres the number nine, which is thought to have an in-
The Buddha taught four noble truths: herent mystic significance. The Burmese word ko (nine) also means ‘to seek protection from
1 Life is dukkha. the gods’. General Ne Win, too, was fascinated with numerology, especially that relating to
2 Dukkha comes from tanha (selfish desire). the cabalistic ritual Paya-kozu (Nine Gods). He replaced common currency with 45-kyat and
3 When one forsakes selfish desire, suffering will be extinguished. 90-kyat notes, because their digits’ sum equalled nine. It is considered no accident that the
4 The ‘eightfold path’ is the way to eliminate selfish desire. prodemocracy marches were staged on 8 August 1988 (8-8-88); for many, eight is considered
an ‘unlucky’ number.
The eightfold path is divided into three stages: sila (morality), samadhi
(concentration), and pañña (wisdom and insight). It consists of:
1 Right thought laypeople, and keep only 10 precepts – the same number observed by
2 Right understanding male novices.
3 Right speech
4 Right action MONASTERIES
5 Right livelihood Monastic communities are called kyaungtaik, hpongyi-kyaung, or simply
6 Right exertion kyaung for short. There are over 50,000 in Myanmar. The most impor-
7 Right attentiveness tant structure on the monastery grounds is the thein (a consecrated hall
8 Right concentration where monastic ordinations are held). Kyaung may also be associated
with one or more zedi or pahto (temple). An open-sided resthouse or
Devout Buddhists in Myanmar adhere to five lay precepts, or moral rules zayat may be available for gatherings of laypeople during festivals or
(thila in Burmese, sila in Pali), which require abstinence from killing, pilgrimages.
At many stupas, worship- stealing, unchastity (usually interpreted among laypeople as adultery),
pers pour one glassful of lying and intoxicating substances. RECOMMENDED READING
water for every year of In spite of Buddhism’s obviously profound truths, the most common Some of the following books are available in Yangon:
their age (plus one) over Myanmar approach is to try for a better future life by feeding monks, Essential Themes of Buddhist Lectures Given by Ashin Thittila, Depart-
the Buddha image to giving donations to temples and performing regular worship at the local ment of Religious Affairs (DRA), Yangon
ensure long life. paya (Buddhist monument). For the average person, everything revolves The Initiation of Novicehood and the Ordination of Monkhood in the
around the kutho (merit), from the Pali kusala (wholesome), one is able Burmese Buddhist Culture by Sao Htun Hmat Win, DRA, Yangon
to accumulate through such deeds. Religion and Legitimation of Power in Thailand, Laos, Burma, edited
by Bardwell L Smith
MONKS & NUNS Things as They Are, by Maha Boowa Nyanasampanno ‘I worship Buddha, but
There are as many as 500,000 monks in Myanmar. Socially, every Myan- I make friends with
mar male is expected to take up temporary monastic residence twice in A few online sources: the nat’
his life: once as a samanera (novice monk) between the ages of 10 and Access to Insight (www.accesstoinsight.org/index.html) – PAKOKKU LOCAL
20 and again as a hpongyi (fully ordained monk) sometime after the age Barre Center for Buddhist Studies (www.dharma.org/bcbs.htm)
of 20. Almost all men or boys aged under 20 participate in the shinpyu Buddha Net (www.buddhanet.org)
(novitiation ceremony) – quite a common event since a family earns great DharmaNet International (www.dharmanet.org)
merit when one of its sons ‘takes robe and bowl’.
All things possessed by a monk must be offered by the lay community. THE 37 NAT
Upon ordination a new monk is typically offered a set of three robes One of the great things about Myanmar is the ongoing worship of the
(lower, inner and outer). Bright red robes are usually reserved for novices nat (spirit) – a link to the pre-Buddhism era when animism (associated
under 15, darker colours for older, fully ordained monks. Other posses- with hills, trees, lakes) held undisputed dominion over the land. Though
sions a monk is permitted include a razor, a cup, a filter (for keeping some Buddhist leaders downgrade the nat, the nat are very much alive
insects out of drinking water), an umbrella and an alms bowl. in the lives of the people of Myanmar.
In Myanmar, women who live the monastic life as dasasila (‘10-pre-
cept’ nuns) are often called thilashin (possessor of morality) in Burmese. History
Myanmar nuns shave their heads, wear pink robes, and take vows in an The powerful nat of Myanmar has evolved into a spirit that may hold
ordination procedure similar to that undergone by monks. Generally dominion over a place (natural or human-made), person, or field of expe-
speaking, nunhood isn’t considered as ‘prestigious’ as monkhood. This rience. Orthographically, the written Burmese word nat is likely derived
is mainly because nuns generally don’t perform ceremonies on behalf of from the Pali-Sanskrit natha (lord or guardian).
60 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • W o m e n i n M y a n m a r 61
Separate, larger shrines were built for a higher class of nat, descended The nat like loud and colourful music, so musicians at a nat pwe bang
from actual historic personages (including previous Thai and Bamar away at full volume on their gongs, drums and xylophones, producing
kings) who had died violent, unjust deaths. These suprahuman nat, when what sounds like some ancient form of rock and roll.
To lure a nat to a loud
correctly propitiated, could aid worshippers in accomplishing important Every nat pwe is accompanied by a risk that the invited spirit may
pwe takes the work
tasks, vanquishing enemies and so on. choose to enter, not the body of the medium, but one of the spectators.
of a spirit medium, or
In Bagan, King Anawrahta stopped animal sacrifices (part of nat wor- One of the most commonly summoned spirits at nat pwe is Ko Gyi
nat-gadaw (nat wife),
ship at Mt Popa) and destroyed nat temples. Undeterred, many of his Kyaw (Big Brother Kyaw), a drunkard nat who responds to offerings of
who is either a woman or
subjects simply rebuilt nat shrines in their homes. Realising he may lose liquor imbibed by the nat-gadaw. When he enters someone’s body, he’s
a male transvestite who
the case for making Theravada Buddhism the national faith, Anawrahta given to lascivious dancing, so a chance possession by Ko Gyi Kyaw is
sings and dances to invite
wisely conceded the nat’s coexistence with Buddha. He himself led the especially embarrassing.
specific nat to possess
way by placing images of the 36 nat from Mt Popa at the base of the Once possessed by a nat, the only way one can be sure the spirit won’t
them.
sacred zedi of Shwezigon. return again and again is to employ the services of an older Buddhist
To these universally recognised 36, Anawrahta sagely added a 37th, monk skilled at exorcism – a process that can take days, if not weeks.
Thagyamin, a Hindu deity based on Indra, who he crowned ‘king of Without undergoing such a procedure, anyone who has been spirit-
Many locals split their the nat’. Since, in traditional Buddhist mythology, Indra paid homage possessed may carry the nat stigma the rest of their lives. Girls who
devotion between Bud- to Buddha on behalf of the Hindu pantheon, this theistic insertion ef- have been so entered are considered unmarriageable unless satisfactorily
dha and the nat: Buddha fectively made all nat subordinate to Buddhism. exorcised.
is for their future lives, Anawrahta’s scheme worked, and today the commonly believed cos- Though nat pwe are commonly held with festivals throughout Bamar
and the nat for problems mology places Buddha and his teachings at the top, with the Hindu and Myanmar, the grandest of all occur during the annual nat festival in
in this life. Bamar nat in second and third place. Taungbyone, about 20km north of Mandalay. Held each August (more
specifically for six days up to and including the full moon of Wagaung,
Worship & Beliefs the fifth lunar month) since Anawrahta’s reign, the Taungbyone festival
In many homes, you may see the most popular nat in the form of honours the so-called Muslim Brothers, Byat-wi and Byat-ta, two of
an unhusked coconut dressed in a red gaung baung (turban), which the most famous nat from the Bagan era. Another nat festival, rather
represents the dual-nat Eindwin-Min Mahagiri (Lord of the Great smaller than the one at Taungbyone, follows immediately afterwards at
Mountain who is in the House). Another widespread form of nat wor- Yadana-gu, a paya south of Amarapura. This one revolves around the
ship is exhibited through thered-and-white cloths tied to a rear-view ritual bathing of nat images on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River; many
mirror or hood ornament; these colours are the traditional nat colours festival-goers arrive here by sampan from Amarapura.
of protection.
Some of the more animistic guardian nat remain outside home and Other Religions
paya. A tree-spirit shrine, for example, may be erected beneath a par- Among the non-Buddhist people of Myanmar, 1% are animist, 4% Chris-
ticularly venerated old tree, thought to wield power over the immediate tian, 4% Muslim and 1.5% Hindu. Most Muslims and Hindus, as well
vicinity. These are especially common beneath larger banyan trees (Ficus as many Christians, are of Indian descent and live in the larger towns
religiosa), as this tree is revered as a symbol of Buddha’s enlightenment. A and cities.
village may well have a nat shrine in a wooded corner for the propitiation Most other Christians in Myanmar are found among the tribal mi-
of the village guardian spirit. Such tree and village shrines are simple, norities, though the majority of the tribal people remain animist. Baptist,
dollhouselike structures of wood or bamboo; their proper placement is Catholic and Anglican missionaries have been active in Myanmar for
divined by a local saya (teacher or shaman), trained in spirit lore. Such over 150 years. Ethnic groups that traditionally practised animism were
knowledge of the complex nat world is fading fast among the younger more receptive to conversion, especially the Kayin, Kachin and Chin.
generations. Myanmar had 2500 Jews before the wake of nationalism encouraged
Those with a general fear of nat will avoid eating pork, which is most to leave; today Myanmar has only about 50 Jews; the best Jewish site
thought to be offensive to the spirit world. The main fear is not simply to visit is Yangon’s 19th-century Moseah Yeshua Synagogue (p000). Yango/SihtsOerPy,Tmpl&Sins/Moeah
that spirits will wreak havoc on your daily affairs, but rather that one With such religious diversity, it’s not surprising that there is sometimes
may enter your mind and body, and then force you to perform uncon- friction between religious groups. In October 2001, riots between Bud-
scionable acts in public – acts that would cause others to shun you. Spirit dhists and Muslims caused the government to impose temporary curfews
possession – whether psychologically induced or metaphysical – is a in Taungoo and Pyay. Many Muslims endure restrictions on their ability
phenomenon that is real in the eyes of the people of Myanmar. to travel, and often can stay only at family homes, not hotels.
Nat Festivals WOMEN IN MYANMAR

On certain occasions, the nat cult goes behind simple propitiation of In most respects Myanmar women enjoy legal rights equal to those of
the spirits (via offerings) and steps into the realm of spirit invocation. Myanmar men; for example, they own property and aren’t barred from
Most commonly, this is accomplished through nat pwe (spirit festivals), any profession. Unlike in the West, females do not traditionally change
special musical performances designed to attract nat to the perform- any portion of their names upon marriage; in the event of divorce, they
ance venue. Nearly all indigenous Burmese music is designed for this are legally entitled to half of all property accumulated during the mar-
purpose. riage. Inheritance rights are also equally shared. Aung San Suu Kyi wrote
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Jataka (life story of the Buddha) while the yamazat picks a tale from the
MYANMAR BEAUTY SECRETS Indian epic Ramayana.
Women rarely touch alcohol or cigarettes; the cheroots puffed by country women are mild. Classical dance-drama is occasionally performed at the National Thea- Myanmar dance scholars
High humidity helps, as sweating keeps the pores active and flushed.
tre in Yangon (p000), where around a dozen amateur theatre groups regu-
Yango/EterimNalTh
have catalogued around
larly practise and perform yamazat. In Mandalay, yamazat performers 2000 dance movements,
Most locals wash with cold water (often straight from the river) two or three times daily with even have their own shrine. Since Myanmar classical dancing emphasises including 13 head
unscented soap. pose rather than movement, and solo rather than ensemble perform- movements, 28 eye
Thanakha paste is a combination of moisturiser, sunscreen and perfume that’s smeared on ances, it can soon become a little boring for TV-hyped Western tastes. movements, nine neck
the face (some women apply it to their whole bodies at night); it’s made from the ground By contrast the less common, but livelier, yein pwe features singing and movements, 24 ways of
bark of the thanakha tree. dancing performed by a chorus or ensemble. moving only one hand
Plumpness is a sign of health; to say ‘wa-laiq-ta!’ (‘how fat you’re looking!’) is quite a compliment! Most popular of all is the a-nyeint pwe, a traditional-variety pwe some- and 23 using both hands,
what akin to early American vaudeville (see p000 for a description).
Enteraim/ MoustacheBr
38 leg movements, eight
body postures and 10
that a baby girl is equally celebrated as a baby boy, as they’re believed to Marionette Theatre walking movements.
be ‘more dutiful and loving than sons’. Girls are educated alongside boys Youq-the pwe (Myanmar marionette theatre) presents colourful puppets
and, by university age, women outnumber men in university and college up to a metre high in a spectacle that many aesthetes consider the most
enrolment. Most white-collar professions grant women a paid maternity expressive of all the Myanmar arts. Developed during the Konbaung pe-
The literacy rate for men
leave of six weeks before birth and one or two months afterwards. riod, it was so influential that it became the forerunner to zat pwe as later
is 88%; for women it
Religion is one arena in which women perpetually take a back seat, performed by actors rather than marionettes. As with dance-drama, the
is 78%.
though. Any man is seen as possessing the potential, regardless of de- genre’s ‘golden age’ began with the Mandalay kingdoms of the late 18th
sire, of becoming a Buddha; women cannot. A small number of Bud- century and ran through to the advent of cinema in the 1930s.
dhist shrines, for example Mandalay’s Mahamuni Paya, have small areas The people of Myanmar have great respect for an expert puppeteer.
around the main holy image that are off-limits to women. Many people Some marionettes may be manipulated by a dozen or more strings; cer-
in Myanmar – women as well as men – believe the birth of a female in- tain nat may sport up to 60 strings, including one for each eyebrow. The
dicates less religious merit than the birth of a male, and that it is easier marionette master’s standard repertoire requires a troupe of 28 puppets
for males to attain nibbana. A small but devoted minority of men and including Thagyamin (king of the gods); a Myanmar king, queen, prince
women refute this view, pointing out that the actual suttas, or sayings of and princess; a regent; two court pages; an old man and an old woman; a
the Buddha, do not support this assumption. villain; a hermit; four ministers; two clowns; one good and one evil nat; a
Just as boys between the ages of five and 15 usually undergo a pre- Brahmin astrologer; two ogres; a zawgyi (alchemist); a horse; a monkey;
puberty initiation as temporary novice monks, girls around the same a makara (mythical sea serpent); and an elephant.
age participate in an initiatory ear-piercing ceremony (often called ‘ear- These days it’s rare to see marionette theatre outside tourist venues in
boring’ in Burmese English). Some also become temporary nuns at this Yangon, Mandalay or Bagan.
age.
Saw Myat Yin, the insightful author of Culture Shock! Burma, expresses Music
a viewpoint common among the majority of Myanmar women, who see Much of classical Myanmar music, played loud like the nat like it, features
their role as equal but ‘supportive and complementary…rather than in strongly in any pwe, and its repetitive, even harsh, harmonies can be hard
competition’ and that ‘if they accept a role a step behind their menfolk on Western ears at first. This harshness likely comes from the fact that
they do so freely and willingly’. Myanmar scales are not ‘tempered’ as Western scales have been since
Bach. Traditional Myanmar music is primarily two dimensional in the
ARTS sense that rhythm and melody provide much of the musical structure,
Dance & Theatre while repetition is a key element in developing this structure. Subtle shifts
Myanmar’s truly indigenous dance forms are those that pay homage in rhythm and tonality provide the modulation usually supplied by the
to the nat. In special nat pwe, one or more nat is invited to possess the harmonic dimension in Western music.
body and mind of a medium; sometimes members of the audience are
possessed instead, an event greatly feared by most locals. CLASSICAL MUSIC
As with music, most of Myanmar’s classical dance styles arrived from The original inspiration for much of Myanmar’s current musical tradi-
Thailand. Today the dances most obviously taken from Thailand are tion came from Thailand (then Siam) during the reign of King Hsinby-
known as yodaya zat (Ayuthaya theatre), as taught to the Burmese by ushin, particularly after the second conquest of Thailand in 1767 when
Thai theatrical artists taken captive in the 18th century. musicians and dancers were brought to Myanmar to effect ‘cultural aug-
The most Myanmar of dances feature solo performances by female mentation’. Interestingly, the Thais had acquired these styles themselves
dancers who wear strikingly colourful dresses with long white trains, from Cambodian musicians after conquering Angkor centuries earlier.
which they kick into the air with their heels – quite a feat, given the Myanmar classical music as played today was codified by Po Sein, a
restrictive length of the train. colonial-era musician, composer and drummer who also designed the
A zat pwe involves a re-creation of an ancient legend or Buddhist hsaing waing (the circle of tuned drums, also known as paq waing) and
formalised classical dancing styles. Such music is meant to be played as
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TRADITIONAL BURMESE MUSIC CDS ROCK & RAP CDS

These music CDs can generally be found outside Myanmar: These are five highlights, generally only found (for K1200 or K1500) in Myanmar. (Sincere regrets
Mahagita, Harp & Vocal Music from Burma (2003; Smithsonian Folkways) go to the one-time Rakhaing band Evil Elf, who sadly never recorded.)
Green Tea Leaf Salad, Flavors of Burmese Music (2001; Pan Records) Lay Phyu & Iron Cross, Butterfly (2003) Myanmar’s most popular rock singer
White Elephants & Golden Ducks, Musical Treasures from Burma (1997; Shanachie) Ah Nge & Iron Cross, Khu Hnit Tway Ah Ka (2003) Iron Cross’ number two (a little more
talented than Mr Lay, actually)
Pat Waing, The Magic Drum Circle of Burma (1998; Shanachie)
Myanmar Future Generations Free-download album (www.mm-fg.net) of 11 politically
U Ko Ko, Performs on the Burmese Piano (1995; Ummus) charged rap tracks (and counting)
The Ants, Colourful Chocolate (1998) Alternative-rock trio from Shan State
Big Bag, Don’t Talk About Punk (2004) Includes cover of Green Day’s Longview, in Burmese
an accompaniment to classical dance-dramas that enact scenes from the
Jataka or from the Ramayana. Myo Kyawt Myaing, The Troubles of Being Human (2004) Rap pioneer, features My Name is
Musical instruments are predominantly percussive, but even the hsaing Myo Kyawt Myaing
waing may carry the melody. These drums are tuned by placing a wad of
paq-sa (drum food) – made from a kneaded paste of rice and wood-ash
– onto the centre of the drum head, then adding or subtracting a pinch help each other. Our rock singers don’t throw TVs out the windows. On
At the National Museum at a time till the desired drum tone is attained. stage they jump around and all, but offstage they’re very good natured.’
All lyrics must pass the
in Yangon (p101) you can In addition to the hsaing waing, the traditional hsaing (Myanmar Sone Thin Par and actress Htu Eindra Bo are female singers who win
government’s censor
view an exhibit of Bur- ensemble) of seven to 10 musicians will usually play: the kye-waing (a fans for their melodies – and looks.
board. In 1998 blues
mese traditional music circle of tuned brass gongs); the saung gauq (a boat-shaped harp with Rap is the latest trend, with Min Min Latt’s son, Anega, now busting
singer Nyi Pu had to
13 strings); the pattala (a sort of xylophone); the hneh (an oboe-type beats with other big-name rappers Barbu, Myo Kyawt Myaung and (hear
rename his debut Every-
instrument related to the Indian shanai); the pa-lwe (a bamboo flute); the girls sigh…) Sai Sai. Songs often deal with gossip, or troubles between
thing’s Going to Be Good
the mi-gyaung (crocodile lute); the paq-ma (a bass drum); and the yagwin parents and kids. One rap band, 9mm, was briefly detained in 2004
to Everything’s Good;
(small cymbals) and wa-leq-hkouq (bamboo clappers), which are purely for performing political songs written by an anonymous prodemocracy
a few years later, Iron
rhythmic and are often played by Myanmar vocalists. group of exiled and local rappers called Myanmar Future Generations
Cross’ Myo Gyi changed
(MFG).
his Very Wild Wind album
FOLK A famed exiled singer, Mun Awng (a Kachin singer) has recorded
to a tamer Breeze.
Older than Myanmar classical music is an enchanting vocal folk-music political songs, including his Battle for Peace album, which is available
tradition still heard in rural areas where locals may sing without instru- through the underground only.
mental accompaniment while working. Such folk songs set the work Look out for posters advertising shows. Yangon’s Strand Hotel and
cadence and provide a distraction from the physical strain and monotony Mya Yeik Nyo Hotel are popular venues. You might bump into one of
of pounding rice, clearing fields, weaving and so on. You’ll hear this type Myanmar’s more popular musicians at Yangon’s Mr Guitar Cafe (p000 Yango/DrikBsM
of music most readily in the Ayeyarwady Delta between Twante and ).

Guitar
Pathein.
Architecture
ROCK & RAP It is in architecture that one sees the strongest evidence of Myanmar artis-
Modern music has taken off in Myanmar in recent years, with a host tic skill and accomplishment. Myanmar is a country of zedis, often called
of rap and rock bands influenced with the introduction of MTV Asia. ‘pagodas’ in English. Wherever you are – boating down the river, driving
Western music’s influence first came in the 1970s, actually, when sing- through the hills, even flying above the plains – there always seems to be
ers such as Min Min Latt and Takatho Tun Naung sang shocking things a hilltop zedi in view. It is in Bagan (p000) that you see the most dramatic
TemplsofBagn
such as Beatles cover versions or ‘Tie a Yellow Ribbon around the Old results of this national enthusiasm for religious monuments.
Oak Tree’. This led to long-haired, distorted-guitar rock bands such as
Empire and Iron Cross in the 1980s. Iron Cross still makes a huge impact, PAYA, ZEDI OR PAHTO?
as does the band Lazy Club, which you may see on videotapes in teashops The paya (pa-yah), the most common Myanmar equivalent to the often-
or aboard all-night buses. misleading English term pagoda, literally means ‘holy one’ and can refer
Bands such as these (all of whom sing in Burmese, even if they have to people, deities and places associated with religion. Often it’s a generic
English names) have a stable of half a dozen singers who share the stage term covering a stupa, temple or shrine. There are basically two kinds
with the same backing band. Iron Cross, for example, features one of of paya: the solid, bell-shaped zedi and the hollow square or rectangular
Myanmar’s ‘wilder’ singers, Lay Phyu, whose recent Butterfly album has pahto. A zedi or stupa is usually thought to contain ‘relics’ – either objects
him done up like the insect. Then Iron Cross also tones it down as a taken from the Buddha himself (especially pieces of bone, teeth or hair)
backing band for the poppier stuff of other singers. One local aficionado or certain holy materials. Both zedi and pahto are often associated with
explained: ‘There’s no competition between a band’s many singers. They kyaung (Buddhist monasteries).
The term pahto is sometimes translated as temple, though shrine
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would perhaps be more accurate as priests or monks are not necessarily in of styles and materials, from the rustic wood-and-plaster Tudor villas of
attendance. The so-called Mon-style pahto is a large cube with small win- Pyin U Lwin to the thick-walled, brick-and-plaster, colonnaded mansions
dows and ground-level passageways; this type is also known as a gu or ku and shop houses of Yangon, Mawlamyine and Myeik. An interesting When royal palaces
(from the Pali-Sanskrit guha; cave). The overall Bamar concept is similar example of a fusion of Burmese and European styles is the City Hall ceased to be built,
to that of the Mayan and Aztec pyramids of Mesoamerica: worshippers building in Yangon. Until recently scant attention was paid to preserv- woodcarving skills rapidly
climb a symbolic mountain lined with religious reliefs and frescoes. ing colonial architecture – for political as well as economic reasons. declined. There has been
High above you in a zedi If all this seems too confusing, just remember that the generic Myan- Nowadays some are being restored, but many have been demolished and a small renaissance in
you can hear the wind mar term for all these structures is paya. The famous Mon zedi in Yangon replaced by new structures in recent years. recent years, mostly seen
bells tinkling from the is called Shwedagon Paya (p000), and Bagan’s greatest pahto is often called Yango /Si hts wed P ya
in hotels.
hti, the decorative metal Ananda Paya (p000). TemplsofBagn/NrthPiAdo Sculpture & Painting
‘umbrella’ that tops the Early Myanmar art was always a part of the religious architecture – paints
structure. ZEDI STYLES were for the walls of temples, sculpture to be placed inside them. Remark-
Early zedi were usually hemispherical (the Kaunghmudaw at Sagaing ably little research has been carried out on Myanmar religious sculpture
near Mandalay) or bulbous (the Bupaya in Bagan), while the more mod- other than that from the Bagan and Mandalay eras. Many pieces, for-
ern style is much more graceful – a curvaceous lower bell merging into a merly in paya or kyaung have been sold or stolen. Mandalay’s Mahamuni
soaring spire, such as the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon. Style is not always Buddha image, a Rakhaing sculpture, is the country’s most famous image
a good indicator of a zedi’s original age as Myanmar is earthquake-prone of any age. Unfortunately, you’ll easily find more Myanmar religious
and many (including the Shwedagon) have been rebuilt over and again. sculpture for sale or on display in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, San Francisco
Around the base of a zedi people are meditating, strolling around and and London than in Myanmar.
chatting. This makes zedi tranquil places to visit. In the immediate aftermath of the 1988 demonstrations, the govern-
ment forbade ‘selfish’ or ‘mad art’ that didn’t have clear progovernment
OTHER BUILDINGS themes. One artist, Sitt Nyein Aye, spent two months in custody for
Traditionally, only the zedi, gu and pahto have been made of permanent sketching the ruins of the former student union, which New Win had
materials; until quite recently all secular buildings – and most monas- blown up in 1962. Things seem to have relaxed a little, evident in national
teries – were constructed of wood, so there are few old ones to be seen. galleries – though most works are rather predictable tourist-oriented
Even the great palaces were made of wood, and with the destruction of works. The government’s social posters – anti-AIDS, antidrugs, or just
Mandalay Palace during WWII there is no remaining wooden Myanmar progovernment! – are interesting pieces of propaganda posted on many
palace. A few surviving examples are in Mandalay (p000), Inwa (p000), Sights/ wenadKyug AroundMaly/cietCsInw(av)Sgh main streets.
Salay (p000) and near Pakokku (p000).
Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagnSlihtsYqoKyaung Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagnPk
Although so little remains of the old wooden architectural skills, there Literature
are still many excellent wooden buildings to be seen. The people of My- Religious texts inscribed onto Myanmar’s famous kammawa (lacquered
anmar continue to use teak with great skill, and a fine country home can scriptures) and parabaik (folding manuscripts) were the first pieces of
be a very pleasing structure indeed. literature as such, and began appearing in the 12th century. Until the
Buildings erected during the British colonial period feature a variety 1800s, the only other works of ‘literature’ available were royal genealo-
gies, classical poetry and law texts. A Burmese version of the Indian epic
Ramayana was first written in 1775 by poet U Aung Pyo. The first printed
BUDDHA’S HAND SIGNS
books in the country were produced by missionaries; the American
Of the hundreds and hundreds of Buddha images you’ll see in Myanmar, the Buddha will be in Baptist Mission was responsible for virtually all publishing until the late
one of four postures: standing, sitting, walking and reclining. The first three are associated with 19th century, when the first press owned by a Burmese began printing a
the daily activities of the Buddha, while the later represents Buddha’s dying moments when Burmese-language newspaper.
he attained parinibbana (ultimate nirvana). Look out for the following hand signs, which have Today the people of Myanmar are great readers, as you’ll realise from
difference meanings: the piles of books in the street at every night market.
Abhaya Both hands are extended forward, palms out, to symbolise Buddha’s offer of protection
or freedom from fear. SPORT
Bhumispara The right hand touches the ground, which symbolises the point in the Buddha’s Martial Arts
life when he sat in meditation beneath the banyan tree and vowed not to budge from the Myanmar has a tradition of kickboxing that’s said to date back to the
spot until he gained enlightenment. Bagan era, although the oldest written references are found in chronicles
of warfare between Burma and Thailand during the 15th and 16th cen-
Dana One or both hands extended forward with palms up, which symbolises the offering of turies. Myanma let-hwei (Myanmar kickboxing) is very similar in style
dhamma (Buddhist teachings) to the world. to muay thai (Thai kickboxing), although not nearly as well developed
Dhyana Both hands rest palm-up on the Buddha’s lap, signifying meditation. as a national sport.
Vitarka or Dhammachakka Thumb and forefinger of one hand forms a circle with other fingers The most common and traditional kickboxing venues are temporary
curving outward (somewhat like an ‘OK’ gesture), symbolising the first public discourse on rings set up at paya pwe rather than sports arenas. However, in recent
Buddhist doctrine. years occasional championships are held at Aung San Stadium in Yangon.
Yangon’s YMCA is a good place to ask about upcoming events.
68 T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t www.lonelyplanet.com
As with Thai boxing, almost anything goes in the ring. All fighters
are bare-fisted. All surfaces of the body are considered fair targets and
any part of the body except the head may be used to strike an opponent.
Common blows include high kicks to the neck, elbow thrusts to the
face and head, knee hooks to the ribs and low crescent kicks to the calf.
Punching is considered the weakest of all blows and kicking merely a
way to ‘soften up’ one’s opponent; knee and elbow strikes are decisive
in most matches.
Competition isn’t nearly as formalised in Myanmar as in Thailand; in
fact you probably won’t find two people anywhere in the country who
agree on the rules! In the simplest rural matches, fought in a dirt circle,
there’s no time limit and a fighter loses once he has wiped blood from his
face or body three times (or gets knocked out cold!). In more organised
amateur matches, boxers fight in square rings (5.8m by 5.5m), for three to
five rounds of three minutes each, usually with two minutes’ rest between.
Professional matches in larger towns and cities begin with five rounds
but may increase round by round to 12 rounds when the scoring is tight
– even longer if no clear winner emerges earlier in the match.
Before the match begins, each boxer performs a dancelike ritual in the
ring to pay homage to Buddha and to Khun Cho and Khun Tha, the nat
whose domain includes Myanmar kickboxing. The winner repeats the
ritual at the end of the match.
Chinlon
Often called ‘cane ball’ in Burmese English, chinlon refers to games in
which a woven rattan ball about 12cm in diameter is kicked around. It
also refers to the ball itself, which resembles the takraw of Thailand and
Malaysia. Informally any number of players can form a circle and keep
the chinlon airborne by kicking it soccer-style from player to player; a lack
of scoring makes it a favourite pastime with locals of all ages.
In formal play six players stand in a circle of 22ft (6.6m) circumference.
Each player must keep the ball aloft using a succession of 30 techniques
and six surfaces on the foot and leg, allotting five minutes for each part.
Each successful kick scores a point, while points are subtracted for using
the wrong body part or dropping the ball.
A popular variation – and the one used in intramural or international
competitions – is played with a volleyball net, using all the same rules as
in volleyball except that only the feet and head are permitted to touch
the ball.
69
Environment
THE LAND
A bit bigger than France and slightly smaller than Texas, Myanmar
covers 678,500 sq km, though it sometimes jockeys with neighbouring
Thailand for a hectare or two more along its eastern extremes. Its land From the local
borders with (clockwise from west) Bangladesh, India, Tibet, China, Laos perspective, the 3000km-
and Thailand, covers 5876km, and 1930km of coastline faces the Bay of long Himalaya mountain
Bengal and Andaman Sea. chain begins in Myanmar.
Geographically, Myanmar’s south is similar to Malaysia, the north to This is true enough, as
northern India or China, and the centre is an overlap of the two – each one end of the chain,
producing unique ‘zones’ manifested in the scenery and creatures that formed when the Indian
hop by it. The area southwest of Yangon is a vast delta region. There and Eurasian tectonic
is a central broad flat heartland, where much of the country’s history plates collided 140 million
was played out and lots of rice is currently grown. This is surrounded years ago, extends to
by protective mountain and hill ranges. Most notable are: the rugged Myanmar’s northern
Kachin Hills, which serve as the first steps into the Himalaya to the Kachin State.
north; Khakabo Razi, on the Tibetan border, is Southeast Asia’s highest
mountain at 5889m; and Mt Victoria, west of Bagan in Chin State, which
rises 3053m.
Three major rivers – fed by monsoon downpours and melted Hima-
layan snows from Nepal and India – cut north to south through the coun-
try. The 2000km-long Ayeyarwady River, one of Asia’s most navigable big
rivers, feeds much of the country’s rice fields. It connects lower Myanmar
(based around Yangon) with upper Myanmar (around Mandalay). North
of Mandalay, the Chindwin River connects the hills to the north; while
the Thanlwin River leads from China to the Gulf of Mottama through
Myanmar’s east. Also, the Mekong River passes by on the short border
with Laos.
Politically, the land is divided into seven tain (divisions) and seven pyi
(states) as shown on the map on p51.
WILDLIFE
Myanmar’s rich wildlife benefits from its diverse habitats – brackish wa-
ters and mangrove along the coast, bizarre mixes of tropical forests and
cooler mountain habitats up north. The central plains (the dry zone) are
home to more rice fields than wildlife.
Animals
When Marco Polo wrote about Myanmar in the 13th century, he de-
scribed ‘...vast jungles teeming with elephants, unicorns and other wild
beasts.’ Though Myanmar’s natural biodiversity has no doubt altered
considerably since that time, it’s difficult to say by just how much. It’s
estimated that Myanmar is presently home to 251 mammals, 687 birds,
203 reptiles and 70 amphibians – 32 of which are endangered, including
the tiger, two species of rhinoceros and the red panda (see p70).
The most comprehensive wildlife survey available was undertaken by
the Bombay Natural History Society between 1912 and 1921 and pub-
lished as the Mammal Survey of India, Burma and Ceylon. In Myanmar
The Wild Animals of Burma, published in 1967, is the most ‘recent’ work
available and even this volume simply contains extracts from various
surveys carried out by the British between 1912 and 1941, with a few
observations dating to 1961.
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As with Myanmar’s flora, the variation in Myanmar’s wildlife is closely

associated with the country’s geographic and climatic differences. Hence INTRODUCING…THE LEAF DEER
the indigenous fauna of the country’s northern half is mostly of Indo- In the 1990s, the ‘leaf deer’ – a 0.6m-tall tall deer – amazed scientists in northern Myanmar just
Chinese origin while that of the south is generally Sundaic (ie typical of by existing. Locals called it ‘leaf deer’ because it’s so small they could wrap it in a leaf. Geneti-
Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Java). In the Himalayan region north of cally ancient, and considered the most primitive deer species, it offers insight into evolution. The
the Tropic of Cancer (just north of Lashio), the fauna is similar to that New York–based Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) was the first to bring the leaf deer to the
found in northeastern India. The area extending from around Myitkyina attention of the world. The WCS also broke ground by becoming, in 1993, the first international
Possession of a sacred
in the north to the Bago Mountains in the central region is one where NGO to work with the junta to set up wildlife reserves in Myanmar in three decades.
‘white (albino) elephant’
there is overlap between geographical and vegetative zones – which
supposedly ensured
means that much of Myanmar is a potential habitat for plants and ani-
Burmese kings a
mals from all three zones. sighted in northern Myanmar in the early 1960s but is still thought to
prosperous reign. In 1885
Distinctive mammals – found in dwindling numbers within the more live in Kachin State forests above 2000m.
Burma’s last royal white
heavily forested areas of Myanmar – include leopards, fishing cats, civets,
elephant died during the
Indian mongooses, crab-eating mongooses, Himalayan bears, Asiatic Plants
reign of King Thibaw.
black bears, Malayan sun bears, gaur (Indian bison), banteng (wild cat- As in the rest of tropical Asia, most indigenous vegetation in Myanmar
Shortly thereafter British
tle), serow (an Asiatic mountain goat), wild boars, sambar, barking deer, is associated with two basic types of tropical forest: monsoon forest (with
colonial forces took over
mouse deer, tapirs, pangolin, gibbons and macaques. Sea mammals in- a distinctive dry season of three months or more) and rainforest (where
the country.
clude dolphins and dugongs. rain falls more than nine months per year). It’s said there are over 1000
Some 10,000 Asiatic elephants – roughly a third of all those on the planet – plant species endemic to the country.
are distributed throughout Myanmar. Among these are 6000 working Monsoon forests are marked by deciduous tree varieties, which shed
elephants, most of which are used in logging and agriculture. It’s en- their leaves during the dry season; rainforests are typically evergreen.
couraging that this number exceeds by a thousand that tallied by English The area stretching from Yangon to Myitkyina contains mainly monsoon
scholar FT Morehead in his 1944 treatise The Forests of Burma. forests, while peninsular Myanmar to the south of Mawlamyine is pre-
Reptiles and amphibians include four sea turtle species along with dominantly a rainforest zone. There is much overlapping of the two – some
numerous snake varieties, of which an astounding 52 are venomous. forest zones support a mix of monsoon forest and rainforest vegetation. Myanmar may possibly
These include the common cobra, king cobra (hamadryad), banded krait, In the mountainous Himalayan region above the Tropic of Cancer, contain more species of
Malayan pit viper, green viper and Russell’s viper. Myanmar’s flora is characterised by subtropical broadleaf evergreen for- bamboo than any country
Myanmar is rich in birdlife, with an estimated 687 resident and migrat- est up to 2000m; temperate semi-deciduous broadleaf rainforest from outside China. One pure
ing species. Coastal and inland waterways of the delta and southern pe- 2000m to 3000m; and, above 3000m, evergreen coniferous, subalpine stand of bamboo forest in
ninsula are especially important habitats for Southeast Asian waterfowl. snow forest and alpine scrub. Rakhaing State extends
One of the best birding spots is at Mt Victoria, which requires taking an Along the Rakhaing and Tanintharyi coasts, tidal forests occur in river over 7770 sq km.
expensive government guide (p329). estuaries, lagoons, tidal creeks and along low islands. Such woodlands
are characterised by mangrove and other coastal trees that grow in mud
ENDANGERED SPECIES and are resistant to seawater. Beach and dune forests, which grow along
Currently, 32 species are endangered in Myanmar, including the flying these same coasts above the high-tide line, consist of palms, hibiscus,
squirrel, tiger, three-striped box turtle and blue whale. The main threats casuarinas and other tree varieties that can withstand high winds and
to the country’s wildlife are deforestation and poaching (see p72 for occasional storm-sent waves.
more details). The country’s most famous flora includes an incredible array of fruit
As recently as the mid-1990s, an estimated 2000 tigers (about 40% of trees, over 25,000 flowering species, a variety of tropical hardwoods, and
Southeast Asia’s total, some suggest) were thought to inhabit the primary bamboo. Cane and rattan are also plentiful.
forests, but some sources claim that numbers have dropped dramatically
due to poaching and the illicit trade in tiger parts.
Both the one-horned (Javan) rhinoceros and the Asiatic two-horned RESPONSIBLE ECOLOGICAL TRAVEL TIPS
(Sumatran) rhinoceros are believed to survive in very small numbers near Here are some simple tips for helping Myanmar’s environment.
the Thai border in Kayin State. The rare red panda (or cat bear) was last Avoid using nonbiodegradable goods.
If you do use nonbiodegradable items deposit them in rubbish bins in the nearest town.
CARING FOR YOUR ELEPHANT Make an effort to carry out rubbish left by others.
One of my favourite Burmese books is Burmese Timber Elephant by U Toke Gale. It could be sub- Never bury your rubbish: digging disturbs soil and ground cover, and encourages erosion.
titled ‘selection, care and use of your pet elephant’, for it tells you everything you need to know Buried rubbish will likely be dug up by animals, which may be injured or poisoned by it.
and many things you don’t about timber elephants – even what to do when your elephant is in Avoid restaurants serving ‘exotic’ wildlife species, if you should find them (eg barking deer, bear).
musth. There’s a chart of 90 nerve centres to use to control an elephant or get it to do things.
Ask boat drivers not to lower anchors onto coral formations, if on a trip in the vicinity of coral
But don’t press 13, 25, 60, 61 or 63 or ‘the animal will be infuriated’!
reefs.
Tony Wheeler
72 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 73
Myanmar holds 75% of the world’s reserves of Tectona grandis, bet- exports. One of the most troubled areas is the so-called ‘Dry Zone’, made Myanmar is the world’s
ter known as teak (kyun in Burmese). This dense, long-wearing, highly up of heavily populated Mandalay, lower Sagaing and Magwe divisions. second-leading producer
prized hardwood is one of Myanmar’s most important exports, for which Little of the original vegetation remains in this pocket (which is about of heroin, with many
the biggest consumers are China, Singapore and India. 10% of Myanmar’s land, but home to one-third of the population) due poppy farms in the
to growth in the area’s population and deforestation. The problem isn’t Golden Triangle area
NATIONAL PARKS new. Much of Britain’s 19th-century industrialisation, as well as the train of Shan State. The UN’s
By an optimistic account, about 7.2% of Myanmar’s land area (48,981 sq tracks made here in Myanmar, were built from cut Burmese timber. Fol- Office of Drugs & Crime
Alan Rabinowitz’s Beyond km) is made up of national parks and national forests, wildlife sanctu- lowing the 1988 putting down of the prodemocracy protests, the govern- reported, however, that
the Last Village: A Journey aries and parks and other protected areas. Other accounts estimate the ment relaxed timber and fishing laws for short-term gains, causing more poppy cultivation fell by
of Discovery in Asia’s percentage of protected areas as more like 2.1% (and this tally takes in long-term problems. 29% in 2004.
Forbidden Wilderness zoos and the like). Regardless, the government has pledged to expand the
(2001) describes the area, much to the credit of the efforts of the New York–based Wildlife
rolled-up-sleeve efforts Conservation Society. In 2004 the government expanded the Hukuang
by himself and the Valley Tiger Reserve (p225) in Kachin State to 8400 sq km (and it may
Wildlife Conservation grow to 12,000 sq km), making it the largest tiger reserve in the world.
Society to set up reserves When set up in 2001, a mere 150 tigers roamed the area; hunting (for the
and parks in Myanmar’s Chinese market) has been a major cause of the decline.
northern areas. Most of the ‘ecotourist’ sights touted by the government (ranging
from the zoo in the capital to the world’s largest tiger reserve in Kachin
State) are in remote areas and require special permission to visit. The
most visited national park is Mt Popa (p277), which receives 150,000
Most of Myanmar’s visitors annually.
protected areas are By one account, Myanmar sports more forest in general than any South
off-limits for travellers. or Southeast Asian country apart from India, and has 75% of the same
See a list of wildlife area of forest as India, despite its much smaller size. That said, only 1.2%
sanctuaries at www of Myanmar’s forests are protected – by one estimate; others have it at
.myanmars.net/travel about 3% – so Myanmar’s forests remain the most unprotected in the
/ecotourism.htm. region. The government apparently plans to expand, in increments, to
protect 5%, then 10%, of the country at some point. We’ll see.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Essentially no environmental legislation was passed from the time of
independence until after 1988, and unsurprisingly most of the gov-
ernment’s acts – such as recent efforts to ‘green the Dry Zone,’ protect
wildlife etc – have been ineffective.
At the moment, deforestation by the timber industry poses the great-
est threat to wildlife habitats. In areas where habitat loss isn’t a problem,
hunting threatens to wipe out the rarer animal species. Wildlife laws are
seldom enforced, which hardly helps matters. Poaching remains a huge
A conservative estimate is problem in Myanmar, where tiger, elephant, python, turtle and eagle is
that 500,000 cu metres of frequently sold in Mandalay (en route to China usually). Of the protected
timber heads to China areas, 13 of 16 wildlife sanctuaries are smaller than 350 sq km – not big
annually. Myanmar’s enough to make much of a difference.
forest cover is currently Marine life is threatened by a lack of long-range conservation goals.
about 50%, but apparently Myanmar’s move to industrialise means that the release of pollutants
the percentage drops by into rivers and the sea is steadily increasing, and overfishing, especially
1.4% annually – one of in the delta regions, is also a growing problem. The country must also
the 10 worst deforestation deal with illegal encroachment on national fisheries by Bangladeshi, Thai
rates in the world. and Malaysian fishing boats.
Though most locals recycle nonbiodegradable material as a matter of
course (disposability is still only a luxury for the rich here), and despite
government’s plans to expand ‘protected’ areas, there is no ‘environmen-
tal movement’ in the country as such.
About 70% of the population are farmers, and much of Myanmar’s
forests have fallen to the axe – for fuel sources, or legal/illicit timber
74 www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • D r i n k s 75
(rice noodles with chicken or fish), which is eaten with a spoon and
Food & Drink tu (chopsticks). Another popular noodle dish, especially at festivals, is
oun-no hkauq-sweh, rice noodles with pieces of chicken in a spicy sauce
made with coconut milk.
STAPLES & SPECIALTIES
Burmese Cuisine REGIONAL CUISINE
Mainstream Burmese cuisine represents an intriguing blend of Bamar, In Mandalay and around Inle (Kalaw, Pindaya, Nyaungshwe and Taung-
Mon, Indian and Chinese influences. T’ǎmìn, also written as htamin gyi) it is also fairly easy to find Shan cuisine, which is very similar to
(rice) is the core of any Burmese meal, to be eaten with a choice of hìn northern Thai cuisine. Popular dishes are k’auk sen (Shan-style wide rice
(curry dishes), most commonly fish, chicken, prawns or mutton. Very noodles with curry) and various fish and meat salads. Large maung jeut
little beef or pork is eaten by the Burmese – beef because it’s considered (rice crackers) are common throughout Shan State.
offensive to most Hindus and Burmese Buddhists, and pork because Shàn k’auk swèh (Shan-style noodle soup) – thin wheat noodles in
the nat (spirits) disapprove (see p60). Many Burmese Buddhists in fact a light broth with chunks of chilli-marinated chicken – is a favourite
abstain from eating the flesh of any four-legged animal, and, during the all over Myanmar but is most common in Mandalay and Shan State. A
Buddhist rain retreat around the Waso full moon may take up a ‘fire-free’ variation popular in Mandalay is made with rice noodles and called myi
diet that includes only uncooked vegetables and fruit. Nearly all butchers shay. Another Shan dish worth seeking out is t’ãmìn chin (‘sour rice’, a
in Myanmar are either Muslim or Chinese. turmeric-coloured rice salad).
Unlike many Chinese dishes, Burmese food takes a long time to prepare, Mon cuisine, most readily available in towns stretching from Bago to
and is often best eaten either at lunch in restaurants when it’s fresh, or in Mawlamyine, is very similar to Bamar food with a greater emphasis on
homes. Bamar curries are the mildest in Asia in terms of chilli power – in curry selections. While a Bamar restaurant might offer a choice of four Food is so enjoyed in
fact most cooks don’t use chillies at all in their recipes, just a simple masala or five curries, a Mon restaurant will have as many as a dozen, all lined Myanmar that standard
of turmeric, ginger, garlic, salt and onions, plus plenty of peanut oil and up in curry pots to examine. Mon curries are also more likely to contain greetings to friends and
shrimp paste. Heat can be added in the form of balachaung, a table condi- chillies than in other cuisines. foreigners include:
ment made from chillies, tamarind and dried shrimp pounded together, or Rakhaing food most resembles dishes found in Bangladesh and India’s sar pyi bi lar? (‘have you
When you’re served a from the very pungent, very hot ngapi jaw (shrimp paste fried in peanut Bengal state, featuring lots of bean and pulse dishes, very spicy curries eaten your lunch yet?’)
bowl of hìn (curry), you’re oil with chilli, garlic and onions). Curries are generally cooked until the and flatbreads. Because of Rakhaing State’s long coastline, seafood is and bar hìn ne sar le?
not expected to consume oil separates from all other ingredients and floats on top. Some restaurants common in the larger towns. Seafood is also available and popular in (‘what curry did you have
all the oil; just spoon will add oil to maintain the correct top layer, as the oil preserves the un- Tanintharyi Division, which has a similarly lengthy sea coast. for lunch?’)
out the ingredients from derlying food from contamination by insects and airborne bacteria while
underneath the layer. the curries sit in open, unheated pots for hours at a time. Chinese & Indian Cuisines
Lots of dishes are flavoured with ngapi, which is a salty paste concocted In towns large and small throughout Myanmar you’ll find plenty of
from dried and fermented shrimp or fish, and can be very much an ac- Chinese restaurants, many of which offer regional specialities that are a
quired taste. A thin sauce of pressed fish or shrimp called ngan-pya-ye world (well, half of China anyway) away from the Chinese food found in
may also be used to salt Bamar dishes. Western countries. For example, there are Muslim-Chinese restaurants
One of the culinary highlights of Burmese food (or Bamar food) is that serve Yunnanese specialities.
undoubtedly dhouq or thouq (also lethouq) – light, spicy salads made with Indian restaurants are also common, although much more so in Yangon
One of the seminal works raw vegetables or fruit tossed with lime juice, onions, peanuts, chillies and than elsewhere. Most are run by Muslim Indians, a few by Hindus. Excel-
on Myanmar cuisine is other spices. Among the most exquisite are maji-yweq dhouq, made with lent chicken dan bauk (biryani) as well as all-you-can-eat vegetarian thali
Cook and Entertain the tender young tamarind leaves, and shauk-thi dhouq, mixed with pomelo, served on a banana-leaf is easy to find in the capital. The Myanmar people
Burmese Way, by Mi Mi a large citrus fruit similar in appearance to grapefruit, but sweeter. T’ãmìn call Indian restaurants that serve all-you-can-eat thalis ‘Chitty’ or ‘Chetty’
Khaing. let-dhouq are savoury salads made with cooked rice. restaurants. Many Indian places outside of Yangon can be very basic.
A popular finish to Bamar meals is la-hpeq dhouq (a saladlike concoc-
tion of pressed, moistened green tea leaves mixed with a combination Fruit
of sesame seeds, fried peas, dried shrimp, fried garlic, peanuts, toasted Myanmar has a wide variety of tropical fruits (watermelon, grapefruit
coconut and ginger, and other crunchy flavourings). The ‘slimy-looking’ lychee, pomelo, banana, tangerine etc) and in season you can get deli- Half of Ba Than’s fun
mass of leaves puts some foreigners off, but it’s actually quite tasty once cious strawberries in Pyin U Lwin, Mandalay and even Yangon. Don’t little book Myanmar’s
you get beyond the dish’s exotic appearance. miss the huge avocados if you’re in the Inle Lake area. Bago is known Attractions & Delights
A common side dish is Indian-influenced peh-hìn-ye (lentil soup, or for its tasty pineapples, and Hsipaw has the most delicious papayas we’ve (2003) features snippets
dahl); the classier restaurants may serve dahl fortified with chunks of ever sampled. Mangoes are available from March through July, jackfruit of background on various
boiled turnips, potatoes and okra. A hìn-jo (mild soup) of green squash from June to October. dishes and food-related
may also be available. Once you’ve ordered one or more curries at an au- customs. The book is
thentic t’ãmìn zain (rice shop), rice, dahl, soup, side dishes and Chinese DRINKS available in some Yangon
tea come automatically for no charge. Nonalcoholic Drinks bookshops.
Noodle dishes are most often eaten for breakfast or as light meals Only drink water in Myanmar when you know it has been purified –
between the main meals of the day. By far the most popular is mohinga which in most restaurants it should be. You should be suspicious of ice
76 F O O D & D R I N K • • D r i n k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • C e l e b r a t i o n s 77
although we’ve had lots of ice drinks in Myanmar without suffering TODDY
any ill-effects. Many brands of drinking water are sold in bottles and Throughout central Myanmar and the delta, t’àn ye (or htan ye; palm
are quite safe. A 1L bottle, usually kept cool by ice or refrigerator, costs juice) or toddy is the farmer’s choice of alcoholic beverage. T’àn ye is
about K150 or K200. tapped from the top of a toddy palm, the same tree – and the same sap –
For more tips on drinking Burmese tea, brewed in the Indian style with lots of milk and sugar, is that produces jaggery, or palm sugar. The juice is sweet and nonalcoholic
water, see p375. cheap. If this is not to your liking, ask for Chinese tea, which is weak and in the morning, but by midafternoon ferments naturally to a weak, beer-
comes without milk. Many restaurants, the Chinese ones in particular, like strength. By the next day it will have turned. The milky, viscous liquid
will provide as much weak Chinese tea as you can handle – for free if has a nutty aroma and a slightly sour flavour that fades quickly.
you order some food. It’s a good, safe thirst quencher and some people Villages in some areas have their own thatched-roof toddy bars where
prefer it to regular Burmese tea. You can always buy some little snack if the locals meet and drink pots of fermented toddy. The toddy is sold in
you’d like some tea but not a meal. Teashops (p79) are a good place to the same roughly engraved terracotta pots the juice is collected in and
drink safely boiled tea and munch on inexpensive snacks such as nam- drunk from coconut half-shells set on small bamboo pedestals. Favourite
bya, palata (kinds of flat breads) or Chinese pastries. toddy accompaniments include prawn crackers and fried peas. Some
Soft drinks are more costly but reasonable by Asian standards. Since toddy bars also sell t’àn-ayeq (toddy liquor, also called jaggery liquor), a
the privatisation of industry there has been a boom in new made-in- much stronger, distilled form of toddy sap.
Myanmar soft-drink brands, including Fantasy, Max, Star, Fruito and
Crusher. They taste pretty much the same as a Coke and are not fre- OTHER LIQUORS & WINES
quently found outside Yangon or touristy areas. Local soft drinks costs Very popular in Shan State is an orange brandy called shwe leinmaw,
about K150 per bottle, while a Coke can be K700 or more because it can with prices decreasing depending on how close to the source you buy it.
only be brought into the country via the black market. Much of it is distilled in the mountains between Kalaw and Taunggyi. It’s
Coffee drinkers will find themselves growing disturbingly attached to a pleasant-tasting liqueur – sort of a poor man’s Grand Marnier – and
the ‘three-in-one’ packets of instant coffee (the ‘three’ being coffee, milk packs quite a punch.
and sugar), which you can have in teashops for about K200. Shops sell In Pyin U Lwin, there are several sweet strawberry-based wines you
them for K100 each in stores. can pick up.
There is also a variety of stronger liquors, including ayeq hpyu (white
Alcoholic Drinks liquor), which varies in strength from brandylike to almost pure ethyl;
In the past the Burmese were not big drinkers. This was partially due to and taw ayeq (jungle liquor), a cruder form of ayeq hpyu.
the general lack of disposable income but also because alcohol-drinking
is looked down upon by the many Burmese Buddhists who interpret the CELEBRATIONS
fifth lay precept against intoxication very strictly. However, with the ad- Burmese meals are made not with servings, but giant shareable por-
vent of ‘beer stations’ – places that serve cheap draught beer – the number tions, and feasts often spill into grand family-and-friends affairs. For Many festivals in Myanmar
of urban Burmese who can afford a few glasses of beer after work is on some birthdays, when a child ‘takes the robe’ and joins a monastery, involve celebrations.
the rise. In fact, beer stations seem to be giving the traditional Burmese and certainly funerals (or anniversaries of deaths), monks are invited to For more information,
teashops some stiff competition. eat with Buddhist families, who offer blessings to the family. Those who see p340.
Any place selling beer or alcohol must pay (sometimes relatively ex- can afford it arrange large parties to eat at Chinese restaurants or hotel
pensive) ‘alcohol licence fees’ to the government. See p79 for information restaurants for weddings or birthdays.
on drinking venues.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
BEER Myanmar has essentially three dining/drinking scenarios: what’s in Yan-
Apart from international brands such as Tiger, ABC Stout, Singha, San gon; what’s in other oft-visited places (Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake,
Miguel, Beck and other beers brewed in Thailand, Singapore and Indo- Ngapali Beach); and then everywhere else. Food can be quite cheap
nesia (typically costing K800 to K1200 for a 375mL can or bottle), there (from K1000 for a full stomach) if you stick to the roadside restaurants
are a couple of Myanmar brews. These include long-established Myanmar with their curry-filled pots or pick-and-point rice dishes. On the other
Beer, which is very similar to Indian or Sri Lankan beer – and equal to hand, the restaurants of big hotels or Yangon's expat-oriented scene are
Tiger, to the palate of at least a couple of researchers. A more watery beer predictably expensive; some only accept US dollars. Other oft-visited
is Mandalay Beer. If you order it, some waiting staff may double-check towns have restaurants that cater to travellers, though they are not as
to see if you meant ‘Myanmar’ beer. Some bottles contain a layer of upmarket as some restaurants in Yangon.
sediment on the bottom resulting from inadequate filtration. Founded in Because almost all accommodation options include a free breakfast
1886, Mandalay Brewery, in Yangon, also produces the New Mandalay of eggs – or, on occasion, mohinga – many travellers don’t venture out
Export label, which is the best-tasting local beer. Some fine, newer, brands in the morning.
brewed in Myanmar include Dagon and Skol. All these cost about the
same as Mandalay Beer but taste a lot better. Also worth a try is the new Quick Eats
Mandalay Strong Ale, which packs a punch with a 7.5% alcohol content. By far the bulk of eateries throughout Myanmar are basic with concrete
Among the locals, Myanmar draught is the favourite; a glass of it will floors, wide-open front for ventilation and often a menu in English.
only set you back K250. Burmese eateries are busiest (and many say freshest) at lunch. No menus
78 F O O D & D R I N K • • W h e re t o E a t & D r i n k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • W h e re t o E a t & D r i n k 79
Inle Lake and (especially) Yangon. Also, most top-end hotels, too, offer
STREET SNACKS: WE DARE YOU plusher eating places, sometimes set around the pool. Such comfort is
Myanmar thăye-za (literally ‘mouth-watering snack’) come in an eye-popping array of cheap bite- rarer to come by off the beaten track. In Yangon, a dish at a Japanese,
sized snacks that line ‘night markets’ all around the country. Most of the stuff isn’t threatening – Korean or Italian restaurant, for example, can cost up to US$10. A hot
multicoloured sticky-rice sweets, poppy-seed cakes, dried salt fish split open and de-boned, pizza at Nyaung U, in Bagan, is about K1200 or K1500.
and banana or potato puddings. A bag of the sweet offerings can be taken to a restaurant for a Upscale hotel restaurants usually have a few Bamar dishes on their
cheap BYO dessert. Other options, though, are a little more of a challenge to Western stomachs. menus but these will be toned-down versions of the real thing, with less
Some locals boast that ‘anything that walks on the ground can be eaten’, the following list is chilli and seasonings, and they’ll usually come with fewer accompany-
testimony to that saying: ing dishes.
items at a wek thaa douk htoe (barbecue stand) – these stands are a few tiny plastic stools
around a boiling pot and a circular grill filled with various sliced-up pig organs (liver, intestine, Drinking Venues
lung, pancreas, heart, head, lip, ears, nose, tongue); grab and grill and dip in the spicy sauce Outside Yangon, drinking gets done at restaurants or open-air bar-
for about K20 per piece. becue restaurants sometimes called in Burmese-English, cutely, ‘beer
stations’. Opening hours are therefore the same as for restaurants. All
pa-yit kyaw (fried cricket) – like the ol’ adage goes, there’s nothing like a 10-pack of fried
but Indian restaurants keep cold bottles of Tiger and Myanmar beer
crickets for K400 to kick off an evening; sometimes they are sold on a skewer – one local
handy (charging from K1000 to K1200 in basic restaurants, upwards
explained how to eat them: ‘take off the head, peel off the wings and gulp it’.
to K3000 in swankier ones). It’s perfectly fine to linger for hours and
bi-laar (beetle) – prepared like crickets, except diners ‘suck the stomach out, then chew the down a few beers.
head part’. Men and women don’t often intermingle at restaurants, so in many
thin baun poe (larva) – these thick, cocoonlike insect larvae, freshly taken from bamboo poles, places you may see red-faced men lingering over a slowly amassing number
are lightly grilled and served still wriggling; a vendor explained, ‘It’s best to eat raw because of empty bottles, with full ones always kept nearby by waiting staff.
it’s good for your stomach’, apparently there’s a big demand in China for these, so eat them More upmarket restaurants will serve foreign wines and mix cocktails.
while you can. For information on Yangon’s lively drinking scene, including expat
hang-outs and places where many famous Myanmar musicians go to get
blitzed, see p118.
are necessary at most; just go to the line of curries and point to what
you want. A meal comes with a tableful of condiments, all of which are Teashops
automatically refilled once you finish them. An all-you-can-eat meal is At all times of day you’ll see locals sitting in teashops, where the tea
about K1000 or K1500. Some basic eateries operate as long as restaurants flows freely and the assorted pastries are very inexpensive. Teashops are
(roughly 7am to 8pm or 9pm). an important social institution in Myanmar, serving as meeting places
Another abundant option is the (usually) hole-in-the-wall Indian curry for friends, family and business associates, as well as a source of cheap
shop, which generally serves veggie dishes only and no beer. You can rec- nutrition and caffeine.
ognise Muslim (halal) restaurants by the numeral 786 over the door, some- The shops come in all shapes and sizes, indoor and outdoor, morning-
times flanked by the star-and-crescent symbol. This number represents the oriented and evening-oriented. The morning teashops are typically open
Arabic phrase ‘In the name of Allah the most beneficent and merciful’. from 5am to 5pm, and generally serve the best-quality tea; many will also
Like most Southeast Asians, the people of Myanmar are great grab- serve Burmese-style coffee. Evening teashops open from 4pm or 5pm and
and-go snackers; stands at night markets, selling a host of sweets and stay open till 11pm or later – even all night in some places, particularly
barbecued meals and noodles, get going around 5pm to 8pm or later, and near train or bus stations that have late-night activity.
are generally the liveliest and cheapest eating in Myanmar. Generally you
can get some fried noodles, a few pieces of pork, or sticky rice wrapped in
banana leaf for K100 to K250. Street and market stalls tend to provide the MYANMAR’S TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS
regional dishes, but you’ll need to be a little wary of cleanliness.
Sandy’s Myanmar Cuisine, Yangon (p112) If you’re tired of streetside stalls serving mohinga
Restaurants (noodles and chicken/fish), this stylish colonial building serves excellent Burmese fare on its
Most restaurants keep long hours daily, usually from 7am to 9pm or until outdoor patio overlooking Kandawgyi Lake.
the last diner wants to stumble out – belly full of curry or beer. Grilled squid at a private open-air restaurant, Ngapali Beach (p316) Fresh squid dunked in
Chinese restaurants are found in most towns, and can be quite ap- chilli/garlic sauce is probably Myanmar’s best meal.
pealing after a week or so of Burmese food. Most have similar sprawling Seik Tie Kye Restaurant (p199) You and three pals can share a giant steaming hotpot of
menus, with as many as 50 rice or noodle chicken, pork, lamb, fish, beef chicken and beancurd then order fresh ice-cream chasers – for about K2000 each.
or vegetable dishes. Veggie dishes start at around K500 or K600; meat
dishes about K1000. Aroma 2, Nyaung U (p271) Fresh Indian curries – fish, mutton, veggie – come on banana-leaf
plates; the best stuff needs to be ordered a day ahead.
SWISHY EATS Burmese Cuisine, Hsipaw (p212) Sure the name’s obvious, but this hole-in-the-wall fills a
More upmarket restaurants – sometimes serving a mix of Asian foods, host of pots with tasty curries; best is the pumpkin – for K300 a plate.
others specialising (Italian, Thai etc) – can be found in Bagan, Mandalay,
80 F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 81
The quality of tea can vary dramatically from one teashop to the next. EAT YOUR WORDS
The best use only fresh, top-quality Indian-style tea for every brewing For some general Burmese phrases and pronunciation guidelines see the
cycle, while the worst recycle tea leaves until the flavour and colour are Language chapter on p379.
gone. A cup of tea, served with condensed milk, is K100 to K200.
You can get hot Chinese-style tea at many restaurants for free with food; Useful Phrases
most restaurants do not serve ‘Indian tea’ (aka ‘Burmese tea’) with milk. FINDING FOOD
Is there a ... near here?
Myanmar’s teashops are ORDERING DELICIOUS TEA ... di·nà·hma shí·dhǎlà? ... dIn;"mH;rHiol;">
often excellent places to Getting tea with milk at a teashop can be one of the country’s great chal- Chinese restaurant tǎyouq·s’ain trut'zui='
go for breakfast. lenges. Some servers know the English word ‘tea’, but you may end up food stall sà·thauq·s’ain c;"eo;k'zui='
with Chinese-style tea (and no milk) unless you’re willing to point-and- restaurant sà·daw·s’eq c;"et;'zk'
nod at fellow sippers’ tables, or learn a couple of phrases. Shan noodle stall shàn·k’auk·swèh·zain rHm'"ex:k'zâEzui='
lǎp’eq·ye – tea water, will come with a dollop of condensed milk
cho bouk – less sweet version of lǎp’eq·ye ORDERING
kyauk padaung – very sweet, the phrase comes from a famous sugar- I can’t eat meat.
palm–growing region near Bagan ǎthà mǎsà·nain·bù. ao;" mc;"Nui='.U">
Do you have any drinking water?
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS thauq·ye shí·dhǎlà? eo;k'errHiol;">
Vegetarians will be able to find fare at most restaurants in Myanmar. Even What’s the best dish to eat today?
meaty barbecues have a few skewered vegetables that can be grilled up. di·né ba·hìn ǎkaùn·zoùn·lèh? dIen¾.;h='"aek;='"zu®"lE>
The easiest way to convey your needs is saying ‘I can’t eat meat’ (ãthà Please bring (a) ...
mãsà-nain-bù). In some cases, saying ‘no chicken, no pork, no fish’ in Eng- ... yu·pè·ba ... yUep"p:>
lish gets the point across. Some Indian or Nepali restaurants are vegan. chopsticks tu tU
Throughout the regional chapters, we highlight some particularly good fork k’ǎyìn xk'r='"
vegetarian options or restaurants. spoon zùn jân'"
knife dà /:"
EATING WITH KIDS glass p’an·gweq fn'xâk'
You won’t find children’s menus in Myanmar restaurants, but staff will plate bǎgan·byà pn'"kn'¨p;"
be happy to serve kids and can offer smaller portions on request. Some bowl bǎgan·loùn pn'"kn'lu®"
more traveller-oriented restaurants have bonus features such as puppet cup k’weq xâk'
shows or live music that may add to the fun. I didn’t order this.
da mǎhma·bù d: mmH;.U">
HABITS & CUSTOMS
At home, most families take their meals sitting on reed mats around a Food Glossary
low, round table about 30cm in height. In restaurants, chairs and tables MEALS
are more common. The entire meal is served at once, rather than in breakfast mǎneq·sa mnk'c;
courses. In basic Bamar restaurants, each individual diner in a group lunch né·leh·za en¾l–''c;
typically orders a small plate of curry for himself or herself, while side dinner nyá·za –c;
dishes are shared among the whole party. This contrasts with China and snack/small meal móun/thǎye·za mun'¾àoerc;
Thailand, for example, where every dish is usually shared.
Traditionally, Bamar food is eaten with the fingers, much like in India, TYPICAL BURMESE DISHES
usually with the right hand (but using the left doesn’t seem to be a taboo ǎmèh·hnaq amENHp' beef in gravy
as it is in India). Nowadays, it’s also common for urban Myanmar people ceq·thà·ǎc’o·jeq äkk'o;"axYiŸxYk' sweet chicken
to eat with a k’ăyìn or hkayin (fork) and zùn (tablespoon). These are always ceq·thà·gin äkk'o;"k=' grilled chicken (satay)
available at Bamar restaurants and almost always given to foreign diners. ceq·thà·jaw äkk'o;"eäk;' fried chicken
hìn h='" curry
ãmèh-dhà-hìn amEo;"h='" beef curry
DO’S & DON’TS ceq-thà-hìn äkk'o;"h='" chicken curry
A fork is held in the left hand and used as a probe to push food onto the spoon; you eat from hìn·dhì·hìn·yweq·hìn/ h='"oI"h='"râkh ' ='"à vegetable curry
the spoon. thì·zoun·hìn oI"cu®h='"
hìn·jo h='"xYiŸ soup (clear or mild)
If you’re invited to a home, it’s common for the hostess and children to not eat at the table.
s’an·hlaw·hìn·jo zn'elH;'h='"xYiŸ sizzling rice soup
Locals tend to focus on the flavours, not table talk, during meals. s’eh·hnǎmyò·hìn·jo zy'¾NHc'mYiŸ"h='"xYiŸ ‘12-taste’ soup
If you’re asked to join someone at a restaurant, they will expect to pay for the meal. móun·di mun'¾tI Mandalay mount-ti (noodles & chicken/fish)
móun·hìn·gà mun'¾h='"x:" mohinga (noodles and chicken/fish)
82 F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 83
móun·s’i·jaw mun'¾zIeäk;'' sweet fried-rice pancakes than·bǎya·dhì o®pr;oI" lime

móun·zàn mun'¾zn'" sticky rice cake with jaggery (palm sugar) thiq·thì/a·thì oc'oI"àaoI" fruit
ngà·dhouq =:"ou=' fish salad thǎyeq·dhì ork'oI" mango
ngà·baùn·(douq) =:"ep:='"(qup') steamed fish (in banana leaves) thìn·bàw·dhì oe.¿;oI" papaya (‘boat-shaped fruit’)
t’ǎmìn qm='" rice
kauk·hnyìn·baùn ek;k'–H='"ep:='" steamed sticky rice SPICES & CONDIMENTS
oùn·t’ǎmìn aun'"qm='" coconut rice ceq·thun·byu äkk'oân'¨f† garlic
t’ ǎmìn-gyaw qm='"eäk;' fried rice gyìn gY='" ginger
t’àn·thì·móun qn'"oI"mun'¾ toddy-palm sugar cake hnàn NHm'" sesame
weq·thà·ni vk'o;"nI red pork hnìn·ye NH='"r–' rose syrup
kalà t’àw·baq kul;"eq;pt' ghee
MEAT & SEAFOOD kùn·ya kâm'"y; betel quid
ǎmèh·dhà amEo;" beef meiq·thǎlin mit'ol=' galangal (white gingerlike root)
ceq·thà äkk'o;" chicken mye·bèh·(jaw) e¨mpE(eäk;') peanuts (fried)
k’ǎyú xru shellfish nan·nan·bin n®n®p=' coriander
ngà =:" fish ngan·pya·ye =®¨p;r–' fish sauce
ngǎk’u =:"xU catfish ngǎyouq·thì =rut'oI" chilli
ngǎshín =:"rH„'¾ eel ngǎyouq·ye =rut'r–' chilli sauce
pin·leh·za/ye·thaq·tǎwa p='ly'c;àerotËv: seafood oùn·nó aun'"Niu¾ coconut cream
pyi·jì·ngà ¨p–'äkI"=:" squid p’a·la·zé f:l;ec¾ cardamon
thǎlauq·paùn oel;k'ep:='" carp pèh·ngan·pya·ye pE=®¨p;r–' soy sauce
weq·thà vk'o;" pork t’àw·baq eq;pt' butter
tha·gu o;gU sago/tapioca
VEGETABLES t’oùn qu®" lime (for betel)
bù·dhì .U"oI" zucchini/gourd s’à z;" salt
ceq·thun·ni äkk'oân'nI onion s’ǎnwìn zNâ='" turmeric
gaw·bi·douq egòfIqup' cabbage sha·lǎka·ye rH;lk;r–' vinegar
hìn·dhì·hìn·yweq h='"oI"h='"râk' vegetables thǎjà oäk;" sugar
hmo mîi‘ mushrooms tó·hù/tó·p’ù t¾uihU"àt¾uif" tofu (beancurd)
hngǎpyàw·bù =Hk'epY;fU" banana flower
kǎlǎbèh kul;"pE chick peas COLD DRINKS
k’ǎyàn·dhì xrm'"oI" eggplant/aubergine ǎyeq ark' alcohol
k’ǎyàn·jin·dhì xrm'"xYw'oI" tomato bí·laq·ye/p’yaw·ye .ilp'r–'àefY;'r–' soft drink
moun·la·ú·wa mun'l;wv: carrot bi·ya/tăbălìn .Iy; beer
pàn-gaw·p’i pn'"egòfI cauliflower can·ye äk®r–' sugarcane juice
p’ǎyoun·dhì fru®oI" pumpkin lein·maw·ye liemμ;'r–' orange juice
pèh·dhì pEoI" beans nwà·nó Nâ;"Nui¾ milk
pyaùn·bù e¨p;='"fU" corn (cob) oùn·ye aun'"r–' coconut juice
s’o·da zuid: soda water
FRUIT t’àn·ye qn'"r–' toddy
àw·za·thì äoj;oI" custard apple (‘influence fruit’) than·bǎya·ye o®pr;r–' lime juice
ceq·mauq·thì äkk'em;k'oI" rambutan (‘cocksomb fruit’) ye er water
cwèh·gàw·dhì kâJEek;oI" pomelo thán·ye on'¾er bottled water (‘clean water’)
dù·yìn·dhì dU"r='"oI" durian ye·è erea" cold water
lain·c’ì·dhì lui='xYI"oI" lychee ye·jeq·è erxYk'ea" boiled cold water
lein·maw·dhì liemμ;'oI" orange ye·nwè ereNâ" hot water
meq·màn·dhì mk'mn'"oI" plum (damson)
mǎjì·dhì mn'kY–'"oI" tamarind HOT DRINKS
na·naq·thì n;nt'oI" pineapple kaw·fi ek;'fI coffee
ngǎpyàw·dhì =Hk'epY;oI" banana dhǎjà·néh oäk;"nE¾ with sugar
oùn·dhì aun'"oI" coconut nó·s’ì·néh Nui¾zInE¾ with condensed milk
pàn·dhì pn'"oI" apple (‘flower fruit’) nwà·nó·néh Nâ;"Nui¾nE¾ with milk
paun·móun·dhì ep:='mun'¾oI" breadfruit lǎp’eq·ye·jàn/ lk'fk'r–'äkm'"à green tea (plain)
shauq·thì erH;k'oI" lemon ye·nwè·jàn ereNâ"äkm'"
t’àw·baq·thì eq;pt'oI" avocado (‘butter fruit’) leq·p’eq·ye lk'fk'r–' tea (Indian)
84 www.lonelyplanet.com
84 www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • H i s t o r y 85
Yangon HISTORY monly seen in the city centre and satellite

YA N G O N
YA N G O N
As Myanmar’s capital city, Yangon is com- dishes dot the horizon. To try and keep
r n ' .un ' paratively young – it only became the cap-

ital in 1885 when the British completed the
conquest of northern Myanmar and Man-
blood-red spittle off the streets, the selling
of betel nut was banned in 1995. As with
many such decrees, the results have been
dalay’s brief period as the centre of the last negligible.
Burmese kingdom ended.
Despite its short history as the seat of ORIENTATION
Yangon (formerly Rangoon) gives the impression of picturesque dishevelment, a half-finished national government, Yangon has been in The city is bounded to the south and west
work in progress, and is the most multiethnic, cosmopolitan, and interesting city in Myanmar. existence for a long time – although very by the Yangon River (also known as the Hla-
Located in the fertile delta region of central Myanmar on the wide Yangon River, this city more much as a small town, in comparison to ing River) and to the east by Pazundaung
than anywhere else in the country exudes an entrepreneurial energy, at least as much as the
places such as Bago (Pegu), Pyay or Thaton. Chaung (Pazundaung Canal), which flows
In 1755 King Alaungpaya conquered cen- into the Yangon River. The city is divided
government allows; commuters shuttle between work, home and school on recycled Chinese tral Myanmar and built a new city on the into townships, and street addresses are
ferries, and Western-style shopping centres teem with a new generation of mall rats. site of Yangon, which at that time was often suffixed with these names (eg 126 52nd
known as Dagon. Yangon means ‘end of St, Botataung Township – or Botataung t/s).
Crumbling decrepit buildings such as the impressive colonnaded ministries that line Strand strife’: the king rather vainly hoped that North of the centre, the city opens up like
Rd, the tall glass Chinese-style office towers and the glittering gold-topped stupas make up an with the conquest of central Myanmar, his the top of a funnel and spreads along a net-
untidy, irregular jumble teeming with life. From above, rooftop orchards of satellite dishes look struggles would be over. work of long, curving avenues.
like they are being swallowed by a sea of telephone wires, creeping through the patchwork In 1756, with the destruction of Than- At the northern end, most businesses
lyin (Syriam) across the river, Yangon also and hotels are found along Pyay Rd, Kaba
quilt of disparate architecture. Packs of kids in spotless green school uniforms, teenagers in became an important seaport. In 1841 the Aye Pagoda Rd or Insein Rd – long thor-
jeans and T-shirts, saffron-robed monks and longyi-clad men and women navigate the throng- city was virtually destroyed by fire; the re- oughfares running south from the airport
ing, crumbling sidewalks of the city centre, dodging the miniature furniture of the ubiquitous built town again suffered extensive damage area to the city centre. Addresses in this
teahouses and street vendors peddling everything imaginable, from knock-off sunglasses and during the Second Anglo-Burmese War in northern area often quote the number of
1852. The British, the new masters, rebuilt miles from Sule Paya – the landmark paya
second-hand clothes, to glossy posters of Burmese models and movie stars.
the capital to its present plan and corrupted (stupa or pagoda) in the city’s centre. For
Parts of the city look like they’re recovering from a strong quake, parts are rich in greenery, and the city’s name to Rangoon. example, ‘Pyay Rd, Mile 8’ means the place
Yangon’s early history as Dagon is tied is 8 miles (13km) north of Sule Paya on
parts are like mushrooming industrial appendages seen the world over. In Yangon, despite the very closely to its grand Buddhist stupa, the Pyay Rd.
contradictions of modern urban life, flip-flops are the footwear of choice, and the vibe is more Shwedagon Paya. It doesn’t stand in the city Two of the most important townships
easygoing than frenetic. It’s one of the most exotic and striking cities in Southeast Asia. centre, rather about 3km to the north – yet outside the central area are Dagon – where
it totally dominates the Yangon skyline. you’ll find Shwedagon Paya, People’s Park
In 1988 around 15% of Yangon’s city cen- and several embassies – and Bahan, site of
HIGHLIGHTS tre population – all squatters – were moved
The one stupa not to be missed, golden to seven myo thit (new towns) northeast
Shwedagon
Paya of the city centre. Many of the old colo- YANGON STREET NAMES
Shwedagon Paya (p90) lives up to the
hype Kandawgyi
Lake
nial buildings once occupied by the squat- The English terms of street and road are
ters have now been refurbished for use as often used interchangeably in Yangon for
Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121) is a
offices, businesses and apartments. The the single Burmese word làn. Hence, some
bargain-shoppers paradise
government rationalised the imposed re- local maps may read Shwe Gone Daing St,
Everything and everyone is waiting for you locations as being an effort to distribute while others will say Shwe Gone Daing Rd;
at Yangon’s downtown street life (p121) the city population more evenly, to impose in Burmese, it’s simply Shwe Gone Daing
Wander around the architectural hodge order on development and to insure space Làn. This chapter uses the most common
podge of downtown (p105) where for industrial parks planned for the city’s English version that travellers encounter.
glittering, ancient payas (Buddhist Bogyoke Aung
San Market
edge. Just to make matters a little more con-
monuments) share the streets with The city has changed dramatically fol- fusing, different maps present the actual
colonial old Rangoon lowing the 1989 banishment of socialism. names of streets differently, for example
From corner teashops to night-time grill Downtown
Starting in the early 1990s, the government Shwe Gone Daing Rd is Shwegondaing Rd
shops to international haute cuisine,
Yangon began sprucing up the city’s appearance on some local maps. Similarly, U Wi Za Ra
dining out (p112) in Yangon is a treat; and Yang
by cleaning the streets and painting many Rd may appear as as U Wizara Rd, Dhamma
on Riv
cuisines come together in filling harmony er public buildings. Since 1992, when the rela- Zedi Rd as Dhammazedi Rd, and Sule Paya
tively moderate, procapitalist General Than Rd as Sule Pagoda Rd, and there are many
TELEPHONE CODE: 01 POPULATION: 5 MILLION ELEVATION: 14M Shwe took power, new cars and trucks have other differences.
taken to city roads, mobile phones are com-
86 YA N G O N • • G re a t e r Ya n g o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • I n f o r m a t i o n 87
0 2 km INFORMATION Maha Pasan Guha................................16 C3 SLEEPING

GREATER YANGON
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
0 1 mile DHL Express Mail...............................(see 34) Me La Mu Paya...................................17 C2 Dusit Inya Lake Resort........................(see 34)
ὈὈ
Diethelm Travel..................................(see 34) Myaing Haywun Park...........................18 B3 Renaissance Inya Lake Hotel................34 C4
A To Bago (78km); B C D IInsein General Hospital..........................1 A2 Myanma Gems Museum & Market......19 C3 Royal White Elephant Hotel..................35 B4
Pyay (286km); 43 International SOS Medical Centre......(see 34) Myanmar Golf Club..............................20 B2 Shwe Hinthar Inn ................................36 B3
An
Mandalay (644km)
Israeli Embassy.......................................2 B4 Na-Gar Glass Factory............................21 B3
aw
rat
Philippines Embassy................................3 B3 Naga Cave Paya...................................22 C2 EATING
ha
Sangha Hospital.....................................4 B3 Nagayon Paya......................................23 B2 L’Moliere Restaurant ...........................37 B3
R
hi Rd
d
1 ar T
Dagon Women and Children Hospital............... 5 D3 Nandawun Market...............................24 C3 L’Opera Restaurant..............................38 C4
9 yM Ky University
Kha St an Pinlon Market......................................25 D3 Silom Village Restaurant ......................39 B4
Mingaladon an Sit SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sailing Club........................................(see 31)
Th Yangon Gy Th
)
Yarza Thin
Rd
International North ar Ah Lain Nga Sint Paya...........................6 A2 Shan Kyaung Paya................................26 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
iri
ὈὈὈ
Airport Thu Rd
on
M
Okkalapa American Club.......................................7 B3 South Okkala Paya.............................. 27 D3 Asia Point Bowling Centre................... 40 D6
Pyi
Nan
ing
ati dar North Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation Centre...8 C3 State Pariyatti Sasana Nawaday Cinema.................................41 C3
ar
(St
al
Rd
Hta
Rd Okkalapa
Pweseikkon City Golf Resort Club..............................9 A1 University.........................................28 C3
Rd
un
Rd
Insein Market........................................10 A2 Swe Taw Myat Paya SHOPPING
ay
Dagon
gM
Py
Myothit
ar
Ywama Insein Prison..........................................11 A2 (Buddha Tooth Relic Pagoda).......... 29 C2 Royal Rose...........................................42 C4
ain
Da
Insein Park............................................12 A2 Thuwunna National Indoor Stadium.... 30 D5
R
u
Th
d
11 1 Rd Kaba Aye Paya.....................................13 C3 Yangon Boat Club................................31 B4 TRANSPORT
44 too Kyaikkasan Paya...................................14 D4 Yangon Institute of Technology...........32 A2 Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station....43 C1
aH
Rd uB Kyaikwaing Paya..................................15 B3 Yone Yang Antique Shop..................... 33 C4 Saw Bwar Gyi Gone Bus Station...........44 A2
Rd
it 6 Py m
th ay oH
Lan 12 eyon Rd B d
ὈὈ
2 10 tt aR
In se in Bu
Phuka St Zw St
Insein Kyaukyedwin aw Yit
20 e Ky a Di
Insein Y rZ
UW
Min Ya
Bay
17
Masoe Yein St many of the city’s midrange and top-end the western arch. There is no public library
intn
isa
26 22
ra
Bo
aun
Tadagale eik hotels and inns. Kandawgyi lake interrupts system in the country.
Rd
eS
M
32 23
29 on
gR
inn
k P Rd
Gyogone Swedaw Oa the flow of traffic from north to south, Alliance Francaise (Map p98; %282 122; Pyidaungsu
d
Y
N
aun
Rd St ga Moe Yeik
Rd
Cr
ry
Lon roads extend from it like spokes in a wheel, Yeiktha Rd; hTue & Fri) Attached to the French embassy;
gR
o
ee
ct 18 41
Pin
k
Fa 15
and it is a convenient landmark from which
d
wa aR
agod d ab
a Aye Pa
god try here for French-language material.
U P in St
Sa aik Wine P
Th
K a
Ky Yegu
to orient yourself. American Center (Map p98; %223 140; 14 Taw Win
ho
Rd
To Hliang Thar Yar 25

Thamaing
Bus Station (10km); U Kyin
Nyaung Tone
(61km)
Ou St Central Yangon is a relatively simple St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Behind the Ministry of Foreign
3 Mayangon 16
4
Th
area to find your way around, and pleas- Affairs. It also has a collection of books and magazines,
an
Patami 13
5 d
Th
Rd
Okkyin 28 i R ant enough to explore on foot. The main which can be perused.
u
27
ram
Pa M
Yawgi 19
Kyaung South ar central streets are laid out in a grid pat- British Council Library (Map p102; %295 300; Strand
Rd
7 24
St Okkala
Thirimyaing
3 8 Parami tern, with the minor north-south streets Rd; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Sat) A very
goda Rd
Insein
21
Hla
5
36 37 Rd d numbered in the North American fashion. modern and plush facility connected to the British embassy.
ar rR
ing
Pun Hlaing 2 34 its ta

Rd
Kanbe To Yau Kyaw

Golf Estate 39 Th yit Many of the major roads were renamed It has a small library of English-language magazines, books
Rd
e Pa
Paya (2km)
Riv
Pyay
M
after independence. and videos and one of the most complete collections of
er
Kaba Ay
Rd
Th
35 Inya
Kamayut ar
uM
Rd
Lake e R aN English-language history books on Myanmar.
42 nb Ya D
Wa
Ka
u n
ing
INFORMATION
Gy
31 33 14
iZ
ala
38
a Ya
Ga
r Rd
4 Bookshops Emergency
in
See Yangon Map p90-1

n Ta
Th
ὈὈ
Pan Yankin
Hl
It’s worth checking out the many book- Your home embassy (see p339) may be able
r Rd
ain
g University
Riv
er
Kamayut
Ave n ue Rd stalls around Bogyoke Aung San Market to assist with advice during emergencies or
(see p121; formerly known as Scott Market) serious problems. It’s a good idea to register
Pyay
Ha
nth rR
d or along 37th St. Several stalls have small with your embassy upon arrival or, if pos-
R
ma
Kokkine Rd
aw 30
d
hu
ad
dy
Rd Bahan Tamwe Th
ant selections of novels and nonfiction books sible, online before you arrive, so that the
Creek in English, French and German. embassy staff will know where to reach you
Yangon River
ar
To Thanlyin
ὈὈ
Bagan Bookshop (Map p102; %377 227; 100 37th St; in case of an emergency at home.
Yw
Thuwunna (8km);
Kuon Bridge Kyauktan
(20km)
h9am-5.30pm, closed Mon) It has the most complete There isn’t always an English-speaking
5 Ayer Won
selection of English-language books on Myanmar and operator on the following numbers; you
Sanchaung Main Rd
Southeast Asia. The front gate pulled across the entrance may have to enlist the aid of a Burmese
ng Rd
doesn’t necessarily mean the place is closed unless the speaker to make these calls.
zundau
Kandawgyi
door inside the gate is closed too. The Bagan even has a Ambulance (%192)
Rd
Lake
r St
Se
da
d Dagon
ne R
tY
photocopier so you can copy rare, out-of-print books on Fire department (%191)
Tha
Ὀ
Ahlo
nan
Pa
one
er
Upp
aw
Min
Myanmar. Police (%199)

Rd
in T
Mingala
Pyay
Taung
My
e St
Inwa Bookshop (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd) This bookshop Red Cross (%295 133)
t
Nyunt
ae S
Pya
Rd
Taw Taw
Ahlone Thaketa next to the Nay Pyi Daw Cinema sells old issues of foreign
n Py
Yangon
Yan
St
Bridge
St hinthar
in
Ma
Yo
magazines such as Newsweek and Der Spiegel as well Internet Resources
My
Sule Pagoda
Pazundaung m
Mahabandoola Dawbon onna
Shuk
6 rR
English-language airport paperbacks and romance novels. Most top-end hotels and many midrange
Rd
Bridge Pa d
zun
Stra
Da
un
gC
40 ones offer Internet access, as do a steadily
nd R
d
Botataung ree
k Cultural Centres & Libraries growing number of small businesses and
At Shwedagon Paya, you can visit the Lib- cafés. Several of the larger shopping cen-
Dala
rary & Archives of Buddhism, located in tres in the city have Internet cafés as well.
88 YA N G O N • • I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 89
Money like most other places, should be double-

YA N G O N
YA N G O N
YANGON IN… Because you can pay for your taxi from the checked.
Two Days airport to the city in US dollars there’s no
Start the morning with a traditional Myanmar breakfast of fish soup and tea. No matter how reason to change money in the terminal. Travel Agencies
early you begin the city will already be up and buzzing. Before the sun gets too high in the Most hotels and guesthouse sell kyat for Most visitors to Myanmar only use private
sky and the heat becomes oppressive take a walk around Chinatown (p117), the bustling mar- rates slightly lower than the usual street domestic travel agencies to book a tour, hire
kets (p121) in the surrounding blocks and Sule Paya (p97), the geographic heart of the city. rate. One hotel in particular known to offer a car or book a domestic flight (air ticket
Lunch in one of the Indian eateries nearby before doing some cruising around some temples competitive rates is the Central Hotel (Map p102; prices are usually cheaper through a private
north of the city centre, including the Chaukhtatgyi Paya (p99) and nearby Ngahtatgyi Paya 335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) near Bogyoke Aung travel agency). However, of the more than
(p100). Then take a stroll around Kandawgyi (p102), and maybe stop in for a drink at one of San Market. The market itself has a fair 100 enterprises in Yangon calling them-
the lakeside restaurants or hotels. Now, move on to the main event: the Shwedagon Pagoda number of moneychangers who generally selves travel agencies, only a handful can
(p90), the highlight of any tour in Yangon, deserves time, attention and the perfect light of a offer the highest rates; odds are you’ll be be considered full-service, experienced tour
Yangon sunset. Dine at one of the excellent restaurants – Bamar, Thai, Korean, Japanese, French approached by one of them if you wander agencies.
or Italian – in the immediate vicinity. down the centre aisle. Ask around before Among the more reliable agencies are the
The second day can begin much like the first at a street side teashop. Morning is the best you go to establish the going rate. You following:
time for a ferry back and forth to Dalah (p125) on the other side of the Yangon river to provide should not pay any commission or tip for Columbus Travels & Tours (Map p98; %229 245;
a little taste of delta life. Back on dry ground, the Botataung Paya (p97) near the jetty is the their services. www.travelmyanmar.com; 586 Strand Rd) It’s on the
next logical stop. Take a walk along Strand Rd for the British colonial-era architecture or head A few of the top-end hotels including the corner of Strand Rd and 7th St. There’s also a branch
directly to lunch at one of the restaurants around Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121). Then Sedona Hotel (Map p90; 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) and office on the 3rd floor of the Sakura Tower across from the
there’s the market itself, a bargain-shoppers Shangri-la, a maze of deals just waiting to be had. Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel (Map p98; 33 Ah Lan Traders Hotel.
If your bags are too heavy, you might want to return to your hotel, otherwise the street stalls Paya Pagoda Rd) accept credit cards; Visa and Diethelm Travel (Map p86;%527 110; leisure@
(p117) in Chinatown are a good way to meet locals while dinning in the city centre. If you still MasterCard more likely than others. And a diethelm.com.mm; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd)
have some get-up-and go, head to a teashop or one of the roof-top clubs nearby to squeeze as few will give guests cash advances on their Exotissimo Travel (Map p102; %255 266; www
much as you can out of the Myanmar capital. cards. Any transaction with plastic involves .exotissimo.com; 3rd fl, Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung
commissions from 3% to 12%. San Rd)
Traveller’s cheques are even less likely to Free Bird Tours (Map p102; %245 489; www.freebird
Rates are by the hour – usually pro rata (load about K1000). Rates at the top-end be recognised as legal tender. Again, only a tours.com; 357 Bo Aung Gyaw St)
if under an hour – and you can send and hotels are not cheap. Another option is few hotels accept them, and they charge a Good News Travel (Map p102; %09-511 6256;
receive however many messages you want Ava Laundry (Map p98; %245 575; 305 Mahabandoola hefty commission. [email protected]; 4th fl, FMI Centre, 380
and access whatever websites you like, as- Rd, btwn 41st & 42nd Sts; h8am-8pm) though it’s Bogyoke Aung San Rd) The owner, William Myatwunna, is
suming they haven’t been banned by the no quicker than the guesthouses and is Post extremely personable and knowledgeable. Recommended.
government. A few hotels still charge per expensive. DHL (Map p102; Traders Hotel, 1st fl, 223, Sule Paya Rd; Gulliver Tours & Travel (Map p90;%526 100; gul-
page to send or receive messages to their h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) [email protected]; 51B Inya Maing Rd)
private email account. Server speeds tend Medical Services Main post office (Map p102; Strand Rd; h7.30am- Insight Myanmar Tourism (Map p98; %297 798;
to be frustratingly slow. There are several private and public hos- 6pm Mon-Fri) A short stroll east of the Strand Hotel. [email protected]; 85-87 Thein Byu Rd, Botataung
Bee Internet Café (Map p98; 23A Na Wa Day St; per hr pitals in Yangon, but the fees, service and Stamps are for sale on the ground floor but go to the 2nd Township)
K750; h8am-11pm) quality may vary. There are also some use- floor to send mail. Myanmar Himalaya Trekking (Map p90; %227 978;
Cyber World I (Map p98; 4th fl, La Pyat Wun Plaza, 37 ful pharmacies in town. www.myanmar-explore.com; Rm 226, Summit Parkview
Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; per hr K800; h9am-9pm) Faster AA Pharmacy (Map p102; %253 231; 142-146 Sule Tourist Information Hotel)
than most. Paya Rd; h24hr) Just north of Sule Paya. Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Map p102; %275 New Horizons Travels & Tours (Map p90;%542 949;
Cyber World II (Map p102; ground fl, Nay Pyi Daw City Mart Supermarket (Map p98; cnr Anawrahta Rd 328, tourist information %282 075; 77-91 Sule Paya Rd; [email protected]; 64 B2R Shwe Gon Plaza)
Cinema, 246-248 Sule Paya Rd; per hr K1000; h9am- & 47th St) Well-stocked place (tampons available) that h8.30am-5pm) is a government-run travel Santa Maria Travel & Tours (Map p102; %254 625;
9pm) Busy and frequented by foreigners because of its includes a pharmacy. agency on the corner of Mahabandoola Rd www.myanmartravels.net; 195-B 32nd St)
central location. Global Network Co (Map p102; 155-161 Sule Paya Rd; and across the street from Sule Paya, which Tour Mandalay (Map p98; %294 729; www.tour
Internet Café (Map p102; 3rd fl, Myanmar Shopping h24hr) Pharmacy just north of Sule Paya and opposite seems modern compared to the MTT’s of- mandalay.com; 2nd fl, 194-196 Mahabandoola Rd)
Mall, 143-149 Sule Paya Rd; per hr K1000; h10am-9pm) AA Pharmacy. fices. The staff is as enthusiastic as Soviet Woodland Travels (Map p98; %202 071; www
Modern and plush with café attached. International SOS Clinic (Map p86; 24hr alarm centre bureaucrats though they will provide ba- .woodlandtravels.com; 422-426 Strand Rd, 7 FJV
Planet Internet Café (Map p98; 5th fl, 220-222 Bo Ta %667 879; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; h24hr) On the sics such as schedules for Myanma Airways Commercial Centre)
Taung Pagoda Rd; per hr K1000; h8.30am-9pm) Close to ground floor of the Renaissance Inya Lake Hotel, this is (MA) and the Yangon–Mandalay railway.
several midrange hotels. your best bet in Yangon if you want medical attention. It’s not uncommon to be steered towards DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
May Pharmacy (Map p102; 542 Mahabandoola Rd; a private travel agency if your question- Many travellers report being overcharged
Laundry h24hr) Near the SOS, on the northwest corner of ing becomes too demanding and involves double or triple the correct amount when
Almost all of Yangon’s budget and mid- Pansodan St. venturing away from the main tourist buying bus tickets from the kiosks around
range guesthouses and hotels offer inex- Pacific Medical Centre & Dental Surgery (Map p90; quadrangle. Free decent city and country Aug San Stadium in Yangon. No doubt it’s
pensive laundry services including ironing %548 022; 81 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) Recommended. maps are available; information from here, not uncommon elsewhere, but it seems
Ὀ
90 YA N G O N • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S i g h t s 91
0 1 km
YANGON
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
INFORMATION Sanpya Zei............................................36 C1 Royal Taj Restaurant.............................71 C1
0 0.5 miles
Alliance Francaise...................................1 B2 Seri Beauty & Health.............................37 B2 Sabai Sabai Thai Restaurant..................72 C2
Ὀ
19 Cambodian Embassy...............................2 C1 Shwedagon Paya..................................38 B3 Sandy’s Myanmar Cuisine....................73 C3
A B C D
Ba Y
German Embassy....................................3 C2 Tatmadaw Boat Club............................39 B1 Sei Taing Kya Teashop.........................74 C3
Insein
Pagoda Rd
Wa
To Airport (5km); 39 Gullivers Tours & Travel..........................4 B2 Yangon International School................40 C2 Sharkey’s..............................................75 C2
int N
Inya
i Za
University 54
Highway Bus Italian Embassy.......................................5 B2 Yangon University Swimming Pool........41 B1 Vietnam House Restaurant...................76 C2
Rd
of Yangon Lake
Bauktaw
aun
Station (5km)
Yan Tar R
No Japanese Embassy..................................6 C2 Yangon Zoological Gardens..................42 C3 World Cup............................................77 B2
16 Yankin
Kaba Aye
(1
g Rd
Kamayut 18 )I Kandawgyi Hospital...............................7 D3 Yuzana Plaza........................................ 43 D3 Yadana Garden Restaurant...................78 C2

1 Hledan Univers nd Korean Embassy......................................8 B1 Yin Dee Thai Restaurant.......................79 B2
ity Av us
63 r enue 71 tri
d
ala 2 al 36 Myanmar Himalaya Trekking.............(see 56) SLEEPING Yin Fong Seafood Restaurant...............80 C3
St
Thir iming 41 22 Rd Rd
Pyay
Nepalese Embassy..................................9 D3 Aurora Inn............................................44 A1

an
East
St 35 Univ
ed
ersity
Ave Rd New Horizons Travels & Tours..............10 C2 Bagan Inn.............................................45 D2 DRINKING
Inya My aing Rd
ὈὈὈὈὈ
8
Hl
69 Kyaikkasan
Race Course Rd
Rd
44
Tha
St
89 Grounds Tamwe Pacific Medical Centre & Beauty Land Hotel................................46 C2 Actor’s Corner Café............................(see 86)
Aung Min Kh
U
Narnattaw St 17 Rd
r San
97 64 88 (Sports Field) Thin Gan Dental Surgery.................................11 C1 Guest Care Hotel..................................47 B2 Captain's Bar......................................(see 53)
Ch
Tone
Than Lwin St
27 Gyan
it M
Ha 55 58 11 Vietnamese Embassy............................12 B2 Hotel Nikko Royal Lake Yangon...........48 D3 Frenz Bar & Grill...................................81 C2
Sa Ya
nth
au
81
R
aw w Sa Rd Yangon General Hospital......................13 A3 Kandawgyi Palace Hotel.......................49 C3 Mr Guitar Café.....................................82 C2

Kan Ba 21
d
n
ad
Iny
gR
yR aung St Liberty Hotel.........................................50 B2
Hanthawady d Swimming
aR
d
28 4 52 82 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Motherland Inn 2................................. 51 D4 ENTERTAINMENT
Nat Sin St 78 Pool St
d
24
5 Bogyoke Aung San Museum................14 C2 Mya Yeik Nyo Royal Hotel...................52 C2 Dolphin Seafood Restaurant.................83 C3
Baho Rd
92 Bahan 15
Myittar Chaukhtatgyi Paya...............................15 C2 Savoy Hotel..........................................53 B2 LakeView Theatre Restaurant.............(see 49)
e Rd
57 St Tha M Nyunt Hledan Zei............................................16 A1 Sedona Hotel........................................54 C1 Lone Ma Lay Restaurant.......................84 C3
Daing
40 76 Gone ein
U
Ὀ Ὀ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Shwe
Ban Yar
2 50 94 Ba Institute of Medicine.............................17 B1 Summer Palace Hotel............................55 A1
W
kkin
Nagyi St 85 61 n
iZ
12 Ya Institute of Myanmar Traditional Summit Parkview..................................56 B3 SHOPPING

Yangon
75 87 n
a
Ko
29 St
Ra
Sanchaung 47 53 68 Advanced Boxing.............................18 B1 Winner Inn...........................................57 B2 Blazon Centre.......................................85 B2

1
Rd
10
Da
37 96 62 t 67 Judson Church......................................19 B1 Yoma Hotel 2........................................58 B1 Dagon Centre.......................................86 B2
86 72 S Win Ga Bar
Kyemyindaing
La
iR
d Shwe Gone Daing St
14 Kohtatgyi Paya.....................................20 A2 Excel Treasure......................................87 C2
Mingatar Rd
River
ed 79 60
St
Bargayar Rd Z 26 Kokine Swimming Pool.........................21 C2 EATING Golden Valley Art Centre......................88 C1
a 77 25 46 3 Ma Hlwa
98 m 45 Gone La Source Beauty Spa............................22 B1 Ashoka Indian Restaurant.....................59 B3 Inya Gallery of Art.................................89 B1
Lower Kyee Myin Da
A 95
20 am 34 65 6
Dh Za
r
rN Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya..................23 C3 Aung Thuka..........................................60 B2 Mingala Zei..........................................90 D3

Rd Resistance Shwedagon i St Nat 48 9
U Tun Mahasi Meditation Centre....................24 C2 Café Dibar............................................61 B2 Nandawun............................................91 B3
Pu Park 30 Paya Ma uk St
aw 38 Myat St ng Martyrs’ Mausoleum.............................25 B2 Furusato Japanese Restaurant ..............62 C2 San Pya Fish Market.............................92 A2
St
Panhlaing in S People's Au
ὈὈὈὈ
93 84 7
an
Sh Mogok Meditation Centre....................26 C2 Green Elephant Restaurant...................63 A1 Thirimingala Zei....................................93 A3

Pyay
13 Park
Ba h
Kandawgyi
Se
Myanmar Book Centre..........................27 A1 Han Il Kwan..........................................64 B1 Traditions Gallery..................................94 B2
Strand Rd
31
tY
33 taung Bo St 49 Lake
R
83
Bah
UH Myanmar TV & Radio Department.......28 B2 Hla Myanma Htamin Zain.....................65 B2 Wingaba Gallery..................................95 C2
on
32
d
73 66
eR
ing
Kan Ye
o Rd
91 23 ik Ngahtatgyi Paya...................................29 C2 Karaweik Palace Restaurant..................66 D3
d(
Thar St 70 43 People's Park........................................30 B3 Le Planteur...........................................67 C2 TRANSPORT
3 Rd 42
M
Ahlone lone 56 Dagon
Rd
90
ill
Rd Ah 59 74 People’s Square....................................31 B3 Maharaja Indian Restaurant...............(see 42) Air Mandalay........................................96 B2
Rd
Rd
80 g Planetarium..........................................32 B3 Onyx Restaurant...................................68 B2 Hsimmalaik
n
)
See Inner Yangon Map p98-9 ndau Pyithu Hluttaw (National Assembly)......33 B3 Padonmar Restaurant............................69 B1 Bus Station......................................97 A1
t azu
Si S pe
rP
Ngu
Hnin Mingala Resistance Park.....................................34 B2 Royal Garden Htee Dan Jetty

UW
Shan Rd Taung Up
St Augustine’s Church...........................35 B1 Restaurant.......................................70 D3 (Passenger Ferry to Dalah).............. 98 A2
War St
St Nyunt Pazundaung Thaketa

i Za
aw Bridge
it T
Ya
Th e Pyay Rd
on
Rd
Ahlone
ins
i G St Pazun Da
Pya
Lanmada Pha Yar Rd

Hn Thakhin Yangon
Shwe Dagon Pagoda Rd
Mahabandoola
seems all the more exotic because of the Visible from almost anywhere in the
yR
Mya Park Bridge

d
way it has been domesticated and inter- city, Shwedagon is located to the north of
Thein Byu Rd
un
g
Cr
eek
twined in the physical and mental geogra- central Yangon, between People’s Park and
Lo
4 er
phy of the city. Kandawgyi.
w
Paz
Mahabandoola Rd und
51
aun
g
Rd In the heat of the day, the stupa glitters The admission fee includes an elevator
Stra
nd R
bright gold. When the sun sets it casts its last ride to the raised platform of the stupa. Of
Yango d Botataung
n Riv
er rays on the soft orange dome, and a swarm course, like most Burmese, you may walk up
of sparrows migrates from the Shwedagon one of the long graceful entrances. There’s
grounds until their return the following also a US$5 camera fee, not always enforced.
particularly egregious here where fares are Shwedagon Paya (Map p90; admission US$5; h5am- morning. It can be quiet and contemplative, The north gate is especially photogenic at
not posted and ticket sellers routinely claim 10pm) has achieved iconic status for Yangon or colourful and raucous. Kipling called it ‘a night.
there are only a few seats left for any partic- and, along with Bagan, for the country as golden mystery…a beautiful winking won-
ular route. The truth is, as mentioned in the a whole. However, unlike the monuments der’. For Myanmar Buddhists, it is the most HISTORY
Getting There & Away section (see p123) of those Western cities, the majority of the sacred of all Buddhist sites in the country, During the Bagan period of Myanmar’s his-
there are almost always several bus compa- pilgrims visiting Shwedagon are local, its one which all Burmese hope to visit at least tory (10th to 14th century), the story of the
nies leaving at about the same time for any meaning deeply religious and rather than once in their lifetime. stupa emerges from mists of legend (p92)
destination. If the ticket sellers refuse to sell being a beacon of the modern, it proudly The great golden dome rises 98m above its to become hard fact. Near the top of the
you the ticket at or close to the correct price stands for the ancient and timeless. To a base. According to legends, this stupa – of the eastern stairway you can see an inscription
you can always simply show up at the bus foreigner maybe the most exotic element solid zedi (stupa; bell-shaped monument) recording the history of the stupa to 1485.
station before the scheduled departure. of this huge gold bell-shaped temple is how type – is 2500 years old, but archaeologists In the 15th century, the tradition of gilding
casually it stands amid the modern and fa- suggest the original stupa was built by the the stupa also began – Queen Shinsawbu,
SIGHTS miliar, or how Burmese who live literally Mon, sometime between the 6th and 10th who was responsible for many improve-
Shwedagon Paya in its shadow go about their everyday lives centuries. In common with many other an- ments to the stupa, provided her own
erátig®u.ur;" without seeming to register amazement or cient zedi in earthquake-prone Myanmar, it weight (40kg) in gold, which was beaten
Much like the Statue of Liberty in New awe in its existence. If Bagan is special in has been rebuilt many times and its current into gold-leaf and used to gild the structure.
York City or the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the part because of its isolation, Shwedagon form dates back only to 1769. Her son-in-law, Dhammazedi, went several
over the southern entrance. You must associated with stupas is how to change
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
THE LEGEND OF SHWEDAGON PAYA remove your shoes and socks as soon as from the square base to the circular upper
The legend of Shwedagon Paya tells of two merchant brothers meeting the Buddha, who gave you mount the first step. Like the other en- elements? Here, as in many other zedi in
them eight of his hairs to take back to be enshrined in Myanmar. With the help of a number of trances, the southern steps are lined with a Myanmar, that transition is achieved with
nat (spirits), the brothers and the king of this region of Myanmar discovered the hill where relics series of shops, where devotees buy flowers – the help of the octagonal sections, which
of previous Buddhas had been enshrined. When the chamber that would house the hairs was built both real and beautifully made paper ones – make a transition from the horizontal de-
and the hairs were taken from their golden casket, some quite amazing events took place: for offerings. Buddha images, ceremonial sign of these lower elements to the smooth
paper umbrellas, books, golden thrones, in- vertical flow of the bell.
…there was a tumult among men and spirits…rays emitted by the Hairs penetrated up to cense sticks, ivory combs and antiques are The shoulder of the bell is decorated with
the heavens above and down to hell…the blind beheld objects…the deaf heard sounds… also on sale. However hot it may be outside, 16 ‘flowers’. The bell is topped by the ‘in-
the dumb spoke distinctly…the earth quaked…the winds of the ocean blew…Mount Meru you’ll find the walkway cool, shady and verted bowl’, another traditional element of
shook…lightning flashed…gems rained down until they were knee deep…all trees of the calm. It’s this quiet, subdued atmosphere stupa architecture, and above this stand the
Himalaya, though not in season, bore blossoms and fruit. on the entrance steps that makes the impact mouldings and then the ‘lotus petals’. These
so great as you arrive at the platform. consist of a band of down-turned petals,
Fortunately, hairs of the Buddha are not unveiled every day. You emerge from semi-gloom into a followed by a band of up-turned petals.
Once the relics were safely enshrined, a golden slab was laid on their chamber and a golden visual cacophony of technicoloured glitter – The banana bud is the final element of
stupa built on it. Over this, a silver stupa was built, then a tin stupa, a copper stupa, a lead for Shwedagon is not just one huge, glow- the zedi before the hti tops it. Like the lotus
stupa, a marble stupa and finally, an iron-brick stupa. Or so the legend goes. Later, the legend ing zedi. Around the mighty stupa cluster petals below, the banana bud is actually
continues, the stupa at Dagon fell into disuse and it is said the great Indian Buddhist emperor an incredible assortment of smaller zedi, covered with no less than 13,153 plates of
Asoka came to Myanmar, finding the site only with great difficulty, and subsequently had the statues, temples, shrines, images and taza- gold, measuring 30 sq cm each – unlike the
encroaching jungle cleared and the stupa repaired. ung (small pavilions). Somehow, the bright lower elements, which are merely covered
gold of the main stupa makes everything with gold-leaf. The seven-tiered hti is made
else seem brighter and larger than life. of iron and again plated with gold. Even
better, by offering four times his own weight be made with the still-independent part Stupas, indeed all Buddhist structures, without the various hanging bells, it weighs
and that of his wife’s in gold. He also proof Myanmar. should be walked around clockwise, so well over a tonne. The hti tiers descend
vided the 1485 historical inscription on the During the 20th century, the Shwedagon turn left at the top of the steps and, like the in size from bottom to top, and from the
eastern stairway. Paya was the scene for much political ac- crowds of locals, start strolling. During the uppermost tier projects the shaft which is
The zedi suffered from a series of earth- tivity during the Myanmar independence heat of the day, you’ll probably have to con- hung with gold bells, silver bells and various
quakes that caused great damage during movement. The huge earthquake of 1930, fine yourself to the mat pathway laid around items of jewellery. The topmost vane, with
this time. In 1612 Portuguese renegade ad- which totally destroyed the Shwemawdaw the platform – unless your bare feet can take its flag, turns with the wind. It is gold- and
venturer Philip De Brito raided the stupa in Bago, only caused minor damage to Shwe- the heat of the uncovered marble paving. silver-plated and studded with 1100 dia-
from his base in Thanlyin and carried away dagon. Less luck was had the following year The hill on which the stupa stands is 58m monds totalling 278 carats – not to men-
Dhammazedi’s great bell, with the inten- when the paya suffered from a serious fire. above sea level and the platform covers over tion 1383 other stones. Finally, at the very
tion of melting it down for cannons. As After another minor earthquake in 1970, the five hectares. Prior to the British takeover of top of the vane rests the diamond orb – a
the British were to do later, with another zedi was clad in bamboo scaffolding beyond southern Myanmar, there had been Burmese hollow golden sphere studded with no less
bell, he dropped it into the river. During King Mindon’s 100-year-old hti, and was defensive earthworks around the paya, but than 4351 diamonds, weighing 1800 carats
the 17th century, the monument suffered refurbished. these were considerably extended by the Brit- in total. The very top of the orb is tipped
earthquake damage on eight occasions. ish, and the emplacements for their cannons with a single 76-carat diamond.
Worse was to follow in 1768, when a quake DESIGN can still be seen outside the outer wall.
brought down the whole top of the zedi. There are four covered walkways up Singut- The main stupa, which is completely solid, AROUND THE STUPA
King Hsinbyushin had it rebuilt to virtually tara Hill to the platform on which Shwe- rises from its platform in a fairly standard The mighty central zedi, regilded every
its present height, and its current configu- dagon stands. The southern entrance, from pattern. First there is the plinth, which year, is only one of many structures on
ration dates from that renovation. Shwedagon Paya Rd, is the one which can stands 6.4m above the clutter of the main the hilltop platform. Reaching the plat-
British troops occupied the compound most properly be called the main entrance. platform and immediately sets Shwedagon form from the southern stairway (47), you
for two years immediately after the First Here, and at the northern entrance, there above the lesser structures. Smaller stupas encounter the first shrine (15), which is to
Anglo-Burmese War in 1824. In 1852, dur- are lifts available, should you not feel fit sit on this raised platform level – four large Konagamana, the second Buddha. Almost
ing the Second Anglo-Burmese War, the enough for the stroll up the stairs. The west- ones mark the four cardinal directions, four beside the shrine stand the planetary posts
British again took the paya, the soldiers pil- ern entrance features a series of escalators medium-sized ones mark the four corners for Mercury (31 and 32). If you were born
laged it once more and it remained under in place of stairs, and is the only entrance of the basically square platform and 60 on a Wednesday morning (as was the Bud-
military control for 77 years, until 1929. In without vendors. The eastern stairway has small ones run around the perimeter. dha), then this is your post, and the tusked
1871 a new hti (the umbrella-like decorative the most traditional ambience, passing ad- From this base, the zedi rises first in three elephant is your animal sign. Continuing
top of a paya), provided by King Mindon jacent kyaung (monasteries) and vendors terraces, then in the ‘octagonal’ terraces and around the plinth, you pass a double-bodied
Min from Mandalay, caused considerable selling monastic requisites. then in five circular bands – together these lion with a man’s face, a laughing necro-
head-scratching for the British, who were Two 9m-high chinthe (legendary half- elements add another 30m to the stupa’s mancer with his hands on his head, and an
not at all keen for such an association to lion, half-dragon gurardian figures) loom height. A standard architectural problem earth goddess. At the southwestern corner
94 YA N G O N • • S h w e d a g o n Pa y a P l a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S i g h t s 95
SHWEDAGON PAYA PLAN of the plinth, you reach the planetary post a Buddha image. Between the niches are
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
for Saturn (38). Come here if you were born figures of animals and birds – they rep-
A B C D on a Saturday; your animal sign is the naga resent the eight directions of the compass
(serpent being). The pavilion (42) directly and the associated sign, planet and day of
opposite has 28 images to represent the 28 the week. To get over the small complica-
1 previous Buddhas. tion of having an Eight Day Stupa and a
Back towards the southwest corner of the seven day week, Wednesday is divided into
22
platform is a monument (49) with inscrip- Wednesday morning and Wednesday af-
5
tions in four languages, recounting a 1920 ternoon. The eight days, which can also be
23
student revolt against British rule. Continu- found with their corresponding planetary
57
9
ing around the platform, you come to a glass posts around the main stupa are (from the
3
case with two figures of nat (10) – one is southern entrance):
25
of the guardian nat (spirits) of Shwedagon
16
24
Paya. Close to these figures is a prayer hall Direction Day Planet Sign
2 13
56 27 (44), quite bare inside, but with fine wood-
14
18 11
19 46 Not to Scale
carving on the terraced roof. It is known as south Wed am Mercury tusked elephant
53
8 the Rakhaing Tazaung, as it was donated by southwest Sat Saturn naga (dragon serpent)
35 21 36 brokers from the Rakhaing (Arakan) coast west Thu Jupiter rat
39 bordering Bangladesh. An 8m-long reclin- northwest Wed pm Yahu tuskless elephant
40
ing Buddha can be seen in the next prayer north Fri Venus guinea pig or mole
26
45
hall (41). Next to this is the Chinese Mer- northeast Sun Sun garuda
34 chants’ Tazaung (2), with a variety of Buddha east Mon Moon tiger
17 29
6
7
figures in different poses. southeast Tue Mars lion
3 52 55
50
On the plinth opposite this prayer hall
33 54
2
30
are figures of Mai Lamu and the king of Close to this small Eight Day Stupa stands
41
20 the nat (20), the parents of King Ukkalapa the bell pavilion (18) housing the 23-tonne
who, according to the legend, originally en- Maha Ganda Bell. Cast between 1775 and
44
10 37
12 shrined the Buddha hairs here. The figures 1779, it was carted off by the British after
38
31 15 32 43 stand on top of each other. The western the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1825. The
42 48
28 adoration hall (55) was built in 1841, but British dropped it into the Yangon River
1
was destroyed in the fire that swept the zedi while trying to get it to the port for ship-
49
47
4 platform in 1931. The planetary posts for ping to England; after repeatedly trying to
4 the Thursday-born (29 and 30) stand to the raise it from the river bottom, they gave
51
right and left of this pavilion: your planet up and told the Burmese they could have
is Jupiter and your animal sign is the rat. A the bell back if they could get it out of the
figure of King Ukkalapa can be seen further river. The Burmese placed logs and bamboo
to the left, on the zedi plinth. beneath the bell until it eventually floated
Directly opposite the west adoration hall to the surface.
is the Two Pice Tazaung (52) located at the Venturing back into the open area of
head of the western stairway. The low pa- the platform, you come to the star-shaped
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mai Lamu & King of the Nats..... 20 B3 Planetary Post for Yahu..............40 B3 vilion (17) next to the entrance was built by ‘wish-fulfilling place’ (56), where there will
5 Banyan Tree.................................1 C4 Northern Adoration Hall............. 21 B2 Prayer Hall (with reclining
Chinese Merchants' Tazaung....... 2 A3 Northern Stairway Landing......... 22 B1 Buddha)................................. 41 A3 manufacturers of monastery requirements – often be devotees, kneeling down and look-
Chinese Prayer Hall......................3 B2 Northwestern Corner.................. 23 A1 Prayer Pavilion........................... 42 B4 in contrast to the rather Chinese-looking ing towards the great stupa, praying that
Curio Museum.............................4 C4 Pavilion (where hti was placed)... 24 B2 Prayer Post Bell.......................... 43 C4
Dhammazedi Inscription...............5 C1 Pavilion (with Indian figures)...... 25 B2 Rakhaing Tazaung..................... 44 A3 roof. Next along is a pavilion (26), with tall their wishes come true.
Eastern Shrine Hall....................... 6 C3 Pavilion (with tall columns)........ 26 A3 Shan Umbrellas.......................... 45 C3 columns and the pyatthat (wooden, multi- The large pavilion (16) across from the
Eastern Stairway Landing............. 7 C3 Pavilion (with woodcarvings)..... 27 C2 Small Gilded Zedi....................... 46 C2
Eight Day Stupa............................8 B2 Pavilion (with woodcarvings)..... 28 C4 Southern Stairway Landing.........47 B4 roofed pavilion) rising from the upper roof. bell pavilion houses a 9m-high Buddha
Golden Elder Stupa...................... 9
Guardian Nat............................. 10
C2
A4
Planetary Posts for Jupiter.......... 29
Planetary Posts for Jupiter........... 30
B3
B3
Stairs to Zedi Plinth.................... 48
Student Monument....................49
B4
B4
Almost opposite this tazaung, at the north- image and is often used for public meet-
Hair Relics Well..........................11 B2 Planetary Posts for Mercury.........31 B4 Tawa-gu Image......................... 50 C3 western corner of the main zedi, is the plan- ings. Behind this pavilion stands a small
Hintha Prayer Post..................... 12
Izza-Gawna Pavilion...................13
C3
C2
Planetary Posts for Mercury........ 32
Planetary Posts for the Moon.......33
B4
C3
Trustees' Office......................... 51
Two-Pice Tazaung..................... 52
C4
A3
etary post (40) for those born on Wednesday shrine (57) with a highly revered ‘wonder-
King Tharawaddy Min's Bell.......14 C2 Planetary Posts for the Moon......34 C3 Two-Pice Tazaung..................... 53 C2 afternoon, whose animal symbol is the tusk- working’ Buddha image covered in gold
6 Konagamana Shrine...................15 B4 Planetary Posts for Venus........... 35 B2 U Nyo Pavilion........................... 54 C3
less elephant, and whose planet is Yahu leaf. From the northwestern corner of the
Large Pavilion.............................16 B2 Planetary Posts for Venus........... 36 B2 Western Adoration Hall..............55 B3
Low Pavilion.............................. 17 A3 Planetary Post for Mars...............37 C4 Wish-Fulfilling Place...................56 B2 (Rahu, a mythical planet in Hindu astrology platform (23), you can look out over some
Maha Ganda Bell....................... 18 A2 Planetary Post for Saturn............ 38 B4 Wonder-Working Image............ 57 A2
Mahabodhi-Style Temple...........19 B2 Planetary Post for the Sun...........39 C2
that allegedly causes eclipses). of the British fortifications and the country
A small stupa with a golden spire (8) to the north of the hill. There are also two
has eight niches around its base, each with banyan trees growing here, one of them
grown from a cutting from the actual tree pavilion (13), the figure off to the left of the in the life of Gautama Buddha. The prayer The golden zedi is unusual in that its oc-
YA N G O N
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at Bodhgaya in India, under which the Bud- main Buddha image has eyes of unequal post (12) close to the southeastern corner tagonal shape continues right up to the bell
dha sat and was enlightened. size as a reminder of this unique feat. The of the zedi is topped by a mythological and inverted bowl. It stands 46m high and
Among the cluster of buildings on this golden Elder Stupa (9) is built on the spot hintha bird. An interesting bell (43) hangs is surrounded by small shops and all the
side of the platform is the Chinese prayer where the hair relics were first placed be- near this prayer post. Opposite these on the familiar nonreligious activities that seem to
hall (3), with good woodcarvings and Chi- fore being enshrined in the great zedi. A zedi plinth is the planetary post for Tues- be a part of every zedi in Myanmar. Besides
nese dragon figures on the sides of the zedi straight line drawn from the centre of this day (37), presided over by the lion and the its significance as a landmark and meeting
in front of it. The adjacent pavilion (25) stupa to the centre of Shwedagon would planet Mars. place, maybe its most mundane function is
has life-size figures of Indians guarding pass through the small stupa reputed to In the corner of the platform stands an- as a milestone from which all addresses to
the side and front entrance doors. No-one be the entrance to the passage that leads other sacred banyan tree (1), also said to be the north are measured.
quite understands their relevance or that to the relic chamber. Women are not al- grown from a branch of the original tree
of the very British lions that guard the next lowed to ascend to the platform around under which Gautama Buddha gained en- Botataung Paya
pavilion. the Elder Stupa, which is also known as the lightenment in India. There is a good view biul'teq;='.ur;"
In 1824 a force of Burmese ‘Invulnerables’ Naungdawgyi Stupa. from this corner of the platform over Yan- One of Yangon’s ‘big three’ payas, and said
fought their way up the northern stairs to Back in the corner of the platform is the gon and across the Yangon River towards to contain hair relics of the Buddha, the
the entrance (22) of the platform before Dhammazedi inscription (5), which dates Thanlyin. On a clear day, you can see the Botataung Paya (Map p98; Strand Rd; admission US$2)
being repulsed by the better-armed British from 1485 and was originally installed on Kyaik-khauk Paya, just beyond Thanlyin. was named after the 1000 military leaders
forces occupying the paya. The crocodile- the eastern stairway. It tells in three lan- The paya trustees have their office (51) on who escorted relics of the Buddha to Myan-
like stair bannister dates from 1460. The guages – Pali, Mon and Burmese – the story this side of the platform, and there’s also mar from India over 2000 years ago (Bo
Martyrs’ Mausoleum of Bogyoke Aung San of Shwedagon. a small curio museum (4). In front of the means leader, usually in a military sense and
and his compatriots stands on the western Cast in 1841, King Tharawaddy Min’s museum is a pavilion (28) with very fine tataung means 1000). For one six-month
side of the hill reached from this stairway. bell is housed in an elegant pavilion (14). woodcarvings. There is also a revolving hti period this paya is said to have harboured
Walking back towards the stupa, you pass The Maha Titthadaganda (three-toned bell) and a telescope, possibly for looking at the all eight strands of the Buddha’s hair before
the pavilion (24) built on the site where the weighs 42 tonnes. Note the ceiling made of real hti on top of the zedi. they were distributed elsewhere. Of course
great zedi’s hti, provided by King Mindon lacquer inlaid with glass. If you look closely, Beside the southern shrine (15), the first it’s not breathtaking like Shwedagon or
Min, was placed before being raised to the you can also discern red-billed green par- stop on this circular tour, stairs (48) lead up striking for being so out-of-place like Sule
zedi summit. The Hair Relics Well (11) was rots nearly hidden in the scrolling among onto the zedi plinth. With permission from Paya, however Botataung’s spacious river-
located at the position of the Sandawdwin the devas (celestial beings). The adjacent the paya trustees, men only are allowed to front location and elements of kitsch make
Tazaung (28) and is said to reach right down small pavilion (27) has some good panels of climb up to the plinth terrace. Men come it worth visiting.
to the level of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) woodcarvings. Back on the main platform up here to meditate; the terrace is about 6m It’s proximity to fresh air and the Yangon
River and to be fed from it; the Buddha the planetary post (39) for those born on wide – a circular walkway between the great wharves were less fortuitous when a bomb
hairs were washed in this well before being Sunday (the sun) stands at the northeastern zedi and its 68 surrounding zedi. Behind from an Allied air raid in November 1943
enshrined in the zedi. In the northern ado- corner of the stupa platform. The bird-like the eastern shrine is a Buddha image (50) scored a direct hit on the unfortunate paya.
ration hall (21), the main image is of Gau- creature beneath the post is the garuda of known as the Tawa-gu, which is reputed to After the war, the Botataung was rebuilt in
tama, the historical Buddha. On either side Hindu-Buddhist mythology, called galoun work miracles. a very similar style to its predecessor, but
of the hall stand planetary posts for Friday by the Burmese. Further around you will with one important and unusual difference:
(35 and 36), domain of the planet Venus, and see golden Shan umbrellas (45) among the Sule Paya unlike most zedi, which are solid, the Bota-
the guinea pig or mole. plinth shrines; there is also one over the zU"el.ur;" taung is hollow, and you can walk through
Modelled after the Mahabodhi temple Friday planetary post near the northern It’s not every city whose primary traffic cir- it. There’s a sort of mirrored maze inside
in Bodhgaya, India, the temple (19) a few pavilion. cle is occupied by a 2000-year-old golden the stupa, with glass showcases containing
steps away is distinctly different from the Facing the eastern stairway, the eastern temple. Surrounded by government build- many of the ancient relics and artefacts,
general style of buildings on the platform. shrine hall (6) is said to be the most beautiful ings and commercial shops, the tall zedi at including small silver-and-gold Buddha im-
A small gilded zedi (46) stands next to this on the platform. It was renovated in 1869, Sule Paya (Map p102; cnr Sule Paya & Mahabandoola Rds; ages, which were sealed inside the earlier
temple, and next again is another ‘two-pice’ but destroyed by the 1931 fire and subse- admission free) is another example of the strange stupa. Reconstruction also revealed a small
tazaung (53) enshrining a 200-year-old Bud- quently rebuilt. The main image is that of incongruity of the Yangon cityscape. It’s not gold cylinder holding two small body relics
dha image. An opening behind this image Kakusandha, the first Buddha. The eastern everywhere you check the Internet and visit and a strand of hair, said to be that of the
is, according to legend, the entrance to a stairway (7) is the longest and is lined with a shrine said to contain a hair of the Buddha Buddha’s, which is reputedly to still be in
passage that leads to the chamber housing shops selling everyday articles as well as rein the space of a few blocks. The central the stupa. Above this interesting interior,
the Buddha hair relics. Although seen from ligious goods and antiques. On either side, stupa’s name, Kyaik Athok, translates in the golden stupa spire rises to 40m.
the ‘two-pice’ tazaung, the Buddha image is the people who were born on Monday wor- the Mon language as ‘the stupa where a Sa- To the western side of the stupa is a hall
actually in the adjacent stupa. ship at the planetary posts (33 and 34) ruled cred Hair Relic is enshrined’. As with many containing a large gilded bronze Buddha,
Izza-Gawna (which means ‘goat-bullock’) over by the moon and the tiger. other ancient Myanmar shrines, it has been cast during the reign of King Mindon Min.
was a legendary monk whose powers ena- The graceful U Nyo pavilion (54), beside rebuilt and repaired many times over the At the time of the British annexation, it was
bled him to replace his lost eyes with one the eastern entrance, has a series of interest- centuries, so no-one really knows exactly kept in King Thibaw Min’s glass palace, but
from a goat and one from a bullock. In his ing woodcarved panels illustrating events when it was built. after King Thibaw was exiled to India, the
98 YA N G O N • • I n n e r Ya n g o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S i g h t s 99
Rd INFORMATION Ministry of Foreign Affairs.....................33 B1 Lucky Seven Teashop............................67 F3

YA N G O N
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0.3 miles
n g
500 m
Bo Ta Htaung Zay Rd Alliance Francaise...............................(see 11) Ministry of Railway Maharaja Indian Restaurant..................68 D1
er au
w nd 56th St
American Center.....................................1 B1 Transportation................................ 34 E4 Maw Shwe Li Restaurant......................69 A3
81
Upp er Pa
zundaung R
d Lo azu 55th St
P Ava Laundry...........................................2 E3 Ministry of Transport............................35 E4 Night Market......................................(see 75)
9
54th St
AWB Bank..............................................3 B3 National Museum..................................36 B1 Singapore’s Kitchen..............................70 B3
20
53rd St
Bee Internet Café...................................4 D2 Salvation Army Church.........................37 E3 Western Park Restaurant......................71 A2
Rd
19
10
Central Women’s Hospital......................5 A1 Shwe Pon Pwint Paya...........................38 F2
w
Bo Ta Htaung Pagada Rd
38
F
47
Ky
Chinese Embassy....................................6 A1 Sikh Temple..........................................39 E3 DRINKING
Mya Yar Gon St
52nd St
26
66 53
Ya
63
Botataung
51st St City Mart Supermarket............................7 F3 Sri Devi.................................................40 F3 J's Bistro & Bar...................................(see 77)
Strand Rd
67 40
50th St Columbus Travel & Tours........................8 B3 Than Zei (Market).................................41 B2 Ritz Café..............................................72 C2
Cyber World I....................................(see 78) Theinbyu Zei (Market)..........................42 E2
St
49th St
57
Mingala
Merchant St
62
g
Taung
Nyunt
East Yangon General Hospital.................9 F3 Yangon Swimming Pool.......................43 C2 ENTERTAINMENT

un
Bo Myat Tun St
45
Ya
FJV Commercial Centre.........................10 F4 National Theatre...................................73 C2
50
7
48th St
Bo Min
47th St French Embassy.....................................11 B1 SLEEPING Pioneer Club.......................................(see 56)
Indonesian Embassy..............................12 B1 Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel...............44 D2 Thamada Cinema................................. 74 D2
32 35 34
101st St
55
46th St
Insight Myanmar Tourism.....................13 E4 Haven Inn.............................................45 F3
76
39
37
88
0
0
13
Lao Embassy.........................................14 B1 SHOPPING
὇὇὇
὇὇὇ Lai Lai Hotel..........................................46 B3
54
87
Thein Byu Rd
Malaysian Embassy...............................15 B1 Ocean Pearl Inn....................................47 F3 Iron Bazaar...........................................75 C3
42
94th St
Myanma Agricultural Bank....................16 B3 Panda Hotel..........................................48 B2 Ivy Gallery.............................................76 E3
Myanma Gon Yi St
44th St
New Yangon General Hospital..............17 B2 Pansea Yangon.....................................49 A1 J's Irrwaddy Dream...............................77 A1
Bogalay Zay St
St
Pakistani Embassy.................................18 B1 Queen's Park Hotel...............................50 F3 La Pyat Wun Plaza...............................78 D2

ὈὈ
ὈὈ 91st St
2
E
Planet Internet Café..............................19 F3 Lucky 7................................................79 C3

Daw Thein Tin
41st St Sakhantha Hotel.................................. 51 D2

90th St Bo Aung Kyaw St Police Station........................................20 F4 Thamada Hotel.................................... 52 D2 Twenty One.........................................80 C3
St Rubyland Tourism................................21 D2 Three Seasons Hotel.............................53 F3
U Pho Kyar Sri Lankan Embassy...............................22 B1 YMCA..................................................54 E3 TRANSPORT
Mahabandoola Rd
87th St Tour Mandalay...................................(see 66) Yoma Hotel..........................................55 E2 Botataung Jetty.....................................81 F4
Merchant St
Upper Pansodan St
Woodland Travels..............................(see 10) Yuzana Garden Hotel........................... 56 D2 City Bus Ticket Offices
St Yangon General Hospital......................23 C2 (Long Distance Buses).....................82 D2
ng St
Yoma Bank.......................................... 24 D2 Hledan St Jetty......................................83 B3

n
EATING
Kun Ch a
82
Aung San
Stadium
Zoological
50th Street Bar & Grill...........................57 F3 Inland Water Transport

Garden
Bogyoke Aung San Rd

64
68
Gau
ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Shop....... 58 D2 Office............................................. 84 B3
21
Rd
24 51
St
Gyo Byu Amusement Park..................................25 D1 Chinese Street Stalls.............................59 C3 Kaingdan St Jetty..................................85 B3

in
nd
M
Botataung Paya....................................26 F4 Feel Myanmar Food..............................60 B1 Lan Thit Jetty........................................86 B3
Stra
61
t
yS
Bo
Sule Paya Rd Defence Services Museum....................27 C2 Ginza Pan Food Centre........................61 D2 Myanma Five Star Line..........................87 E3
la
74
Ga
St
56
25
aw Ein Daw Yar Paya..................................28 B1 Golden Dragon Teashop.......................62 F3 Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL)
52
D
da
nT go
See Central Yangon Map p102-3

Ka English Methodist Church.....................29 D1 Home Sweet Home Restaurant.............63 F3 Cargo Jetty......................................88 E4
Pa
44
St ya Golden Express Ltd...............................30 A3 Ichiban-Kan..........................................64 D2 Pongyi St Jetty......................................89 B4

Gar den a
y St 78
ological nP Kheng Hock Keong..............................31 C3 Sin Oh Dan St Jetty

t
Zo Indian Street Stalls................................65 C3

S
a
hL
e
A Ministry of Communication..................32 E4 Lashio Lay Shan Restaurant...................66 F3 (Vehicle Ferry to Dalah).................. 90 C4

Ge
58
29
Min
a Da
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
St
ra
Yaw
Na W
4
St
Pan T
ar N
yunt British shipped the image to London. In publicised at all – if you can’t get to Bago
Bo Y
72
d
Shwe Dagon Pagoda Rd Shwe Dagon Pagoda Rd 1951 the image was returned to Myanmar to see the Shwethalyaung, then don’t miss
da R
and placed in the Botataung Paya. Also on this colossal image. Fortune-tellers on the
27
Pago
gon
e Da
23rd St
Mahabandoola Rd
Shw the grounds is a nat (spirit) pavilion con- surrounding platform offer astrological and
Bogyoke Aung San Rd
Bo Ywe Rd
43
Anawrahta Rd
80
Rd taining images of Thurathadi (the Hindu palm readings.

65
Ya
21st St
i Za
C
UW deity Saraswati, goddess of learning and

Latha St
Ground
Myoma
59
Lanmada
Kaba Aye Paya

23
music) and Thagyamin (Indra, king of the

19th St
79
73
Dan Rd
kmõ;ea".ur;"
Sin Oh
nat) flanking the thoroughly Burmese nat
31
90
17th St
Lanma Daw St
Lanma Daw St Madaw Rd Bobogyi. The ‘world peace’ zedi was built for the
Samon Rd
75
A short walk from Botataung Paya at Bo- 1954–56 Sixth Buddhist Synod. The 34m-
Thayettaw
16
15th St
Za Ga War Rd
Kyaung
Shwe Taung Tan St

tataung jetty, you can watch ferryboats and high stupa (Map p86) also measures 34m
River
46
oared water taxis cross the Yangon River. around its base. It stands about 11km north
17
13th St
Rd
nma
28
Pado
Phoone Gyee St
of the city centre, a little beyond the Re-
Pyay Rd
89
Chaukhtatgyi Paya
70
n
Rd
41
11th St
naissance Inya Lake Hotel. This attempt to
Yang
and
Hledan St
83
Min Ye Kyaw Swar Rd
e¨x;k'qp'äkI".ur;"
B
48
r Rd
Rd construct a modern paya was not terribly

Str
60
Pyay
36
9th St
a Wa
12 11
Lanthit St Good thing he’s resting because when mag- successful – it does not have the same visual
86
Za G
83
nified to this size the placid features of the appeal of Myanmar’s older, more graceful
n Rd 33
84
7th St
85
18
1
14
Kaingdan St
Buddha in repose can start to seem some- stupas. The interior of the monument, how-
22
ὈὈ
tama
15
Taw
Win
St
War Dan St
5th St
what eerie, especially if you begin to imagine ever, is hollow and contains some nice Bud-
INNER YANGON
in
Than
on M
what he would look like standing above you. dhist sculptures, including a lei-myet-hna
69 30
Kin Wyi St
49
St
Monstrous fantasies of the Buddha aside, (four-sided Buddha sculpture).

3rd St
Rd
77
iktha
Bin
Yae
Kha 1st St
the reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi (Map
e
su Y
Maha Pasana Guha

Mya Park
71 Thakhin
p90; Shwe Gon Daing Rd; admission free), almost as

aung
mh;p:snliu,'gU
A
large as the enormous figure in Bago, is

Pyid
Rd
5
Shan Rd
ng
St
t
impressive. Housed in a large metal-roofed The ‘great cave’ (Map p86) is a totally artifi-
ai
ne
n S ya
D
rde inm
yin
Go
6
Ga akh
M shed, only a short distance northeast be- cial one, built close to the Kaba Aye Paya. It
si
in
e e Th
Hn
Ky
w
er yond the Shwedagon Paya, this huge fig- was here that the Sixth Buddhist Synod was
2
3
1
Lo
ure is surprisingly little known and hardly held in 1954–56 to coincide with the 2500th
anniversary of the Buddha’s enlightenment. Swedaw St). Not that you’d ever know it nor Sri Sri Siva Krishna (Map p102; 141 Pansodan St), Sri
YA N G O N
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The cavern measures 139m by 113m. This should it affect your appreciation of the Kali (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd), between 26th and TIP
enormous cave, which can accommodate paya architecturally but it contains not just 27th Sts, and Sri Devi (Map p98; cnr Anawrahta Rd Ride the lift to the top of the Sakura Tower
up to 10,000 people, took only 14 months to another tooth relic from the Buddha, but & 51st St). These are the centres for the city’s (map p102), an office building across from
build; it helps if you have 63,000 labourers. a replica of a relic brought from China in annual Murugu Festival, famous for colour- Traders Hotel, for the best 360 degree views
The cave is still used to hold grand religious 1997 by pilgrims. ful street processions featuring acts of ritual of the city.
ceremonies. The Yau Kyaw Paya is a 30-minute drive self-mutilation.
northeast of the city centre, past the Kyaik-
Maha Wizaya ( Vijaya) Paya kasan Paya. It’s an interesting complex of National Museum Martyrs’ Mausoleum
mh;vIjy buildings with tableaux depicting Buddhist amYŸi"s;"¨ptiuk' a;j;n–'bim;n'
Linked by a pedestrian bridge to the Shwe- legends, pet monkeys, deer and peacocks About 1km north of Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Close to Shwedagon, on a hill offering a
dagon complex southern gate, the Maha Wizaya and an interesting museum crammed full and just south of the Indonesian embassy good view over the city, stands this memorial
(Map p90; admission K200) is unavoidably dull in of Burmese antiques. The paya is beside the is the National Museum (Map p98; %282 563; Pyay (Map p90; Ar Za Nir St; admission US$3; h9am-4pm) to
comparison. It’s a rather plain but well- Pazundaung Chaung in a rural setting. Rd; adult/child/student US$5/10/10; h10am-4pm), an Bogyoke Aung San and his fellow cabinet
proportioned zedi built in 1980 to commem- At the time of writing, construction was unspectacular, cavernous and quite sparsely officers who were assassinated with him. It
orate the unification of Theravada Buddhism underway on a replica of the Thatbyinnyu Paya, labelled collection. was also here that a bomb set off by North
in Myanmar. The king of Nepal contributed in the North Okkalapa section of Yangon; Nevertheless, you can find a number of Koreans killed a number of South Korea’s
sacred relics for the zedi’s relic chamber and the Thatbyinnyu is the tallest structure in interesting exhibits, especially the 8m-high top government officials in late 1983. The
Burmese military strongman Ne Win had it Bagan. Sihasana (Lion Throne), which belonged to mausoleum itself is only open one day a
topped with an 11-level hti – two more levels Kheng Hock Keong (Map p98; Strand Rd) is the King Thibaw Min, the last Burmese king. year – 19 July.
than the hti at Shwedagon. largest Chinese temple in Yangon. Supported There is also a fair range of royal regalia,
Foreign media and some locals often refer by a Hokkien association, the 100-year-old much of which was plundered by the Brit- Mahabandoola Garden
to the monument as ‘Ne Win’s paya’, due to temple is most lively from around 6am to ish but later returned (in fact you’ll find mh;bNμŸlpn'"¨x®
Ne Win’s involvement in the project (a com- 9am when it’s thronged with worshippers a more impressive Burmese collection in Just southeast of the Sule Paya, this square
mon practice among top military figures). offering candles, flowers and incense to the London’s Victoria and Albert Museum). urban park (Map p102; admission K50) offers pleas-
However, many Myanmar citizens resent Buddhist and Taoist altars within. Old men Also worth a look are some extraordinarily ant strolling in the city centre’s heart, es-
this phrase, pointing out that as the zedi was play Chinese checkers in the temple com- intricate examples of 19th-century Burmese pecially in the early morning when the
built by donations from the people, it should pound throughout the day. woodcarving. Chinese come to practise tai chi, and the
rightfully be called the ‘people’s paya’. The Moseah Yeshua Synagogue (Map p102; 85 Upstairs you’ll find Burmese archaeo- air hasn’t yet filled with traffic fumes. Oc-
26th St), near Mahabandoola Rd, was founded logical finds as well as traditional musical cupying the centre of the northern half of
Other Paya, Temples & Shrines over 100 years ago by Sephardic Jews. In instruments. The 4th floor features about the park is the Independence Monument, an
South of the Chaukhtatgyi Paya, there’s a the classic Sephardic style, it contains a 40 mannequins dressed in the traditional obelisk surrounded by two concentric cir-
huge seated Buddha image at the Ngahtatgyi bimah (platform holding the reading table) dress of various ethnic groups in the coun- cles of chinthe.
Paya (Map p90). It’s appropriately known as in the centre of the main sanctuary and a try. There are also some excellent old maps For a year or two following the 1988–90
the five-storey Buddha and is located in the women’s balcony upstairs. The wooden and modern Burmese paintings. prodemocracy uprisings, the park was oc-
Ashay Tawya monastery. In Kyemyindaing ceiling features the original blue-and-white cupied by Burmese soldiers; many of the
(also called Kyimyindine and Kemmedine), Star of David motif. Myanmar had around Bogyoke Aung San Museum more violent events of the time took place
in the west of the city, there’s another huge 2500 Jews – a combination of B’nai Israel, biul'xYŸp'ea;='zn'"¨ptiuk' nearby.
seated Buddha over in the Kohtatgyi Paya (Map Cochin (Indian) and Iraqi heritages – until Located in Bahan Township, the quiet and
p90; Bargaryar St); it stands (or sits) 20m high. nationalisation in the 1960s and 1970s, when secluded Bogyoke Aung San Museum (Map p90; Yangon Zoological Gardens
There are many monasteries in the vicin- many began leaving the country. Today %541 359; Bogyoke Aung San Museum St; admission US$3; rn'kun'tircü;n'wyY;w'
ity. Kyemyindaing also has a busy night there are no more than 50 or so Burmese h10am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) is the former home of The monkey pen looks like a concrete cy-
market. Jews left in Myanmar, but surviving trustees General Aung San and his wife Daw Kin clodrome and the elephants are tethered
Near the airport, the Me La Mu Paya (Map maintain the synagogue for the occasional Kyi, and contains remnants of another era. in place by heavy chains, nevertheless the
p86) has a series of images of the Buddha special service given by visiting rabbis from The house itself dates from the 1920s and zoo (Map p90; %72 2134; admission incl gardens K1500;
in his previous incarnations, and a reclin- India or Israel. Caretaker Moses Samuels is the rooms, stairway, railings and furniture h6am-4pm) and connecting 0.7-hectare gar-
ing Buddha image. The paya is named after happy to talk with visitors and show them are fairly intact. There are several old fam- dens (Map p90; %274 244; Kan Yeik Thar St) make a
the mother of King Ukkalapa, the founder the nearby Jewish cemetery, with over 700 ily photos, which of course include daugh- popular outing for Myanmar families. The
of the city of Dagon. In Insein, west of the graves dating back to 1856. Look for the ter Suu Kyi as a little girl. A glass-encased entrance is opposite the Dolphin Seafood
airport, you'll find the five-storey Ah Lain Nga Jewish star above the shops on Mahaban- English-language library reveals the gener- Restaurant on Kandawgyi. Originally de-
Sint Paya (Map p86). doola Rd. The entrance, sandwiched be- al’s broad interests; titles range from Cav- veloped in 1906 by the British, the sparsely
Near the International Buddhist Uni- tween small shops, is around the corner alry Training, Armoured Cars, a History of landscaped grounds include a couple of ar-
versity, between Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd and on 26th St. the US, Left-wing Democracy in the English tificial lakes, a playground and a miniature
Thudhamar St, is wedding-cake shaped Swe Several colourful Hindu temples can be Civil War and Adam Smith’s The Wealth train circuit for kids, and English and Latin
Taw Myat Paya (Buddha Tooth Relic Pagoda; Map p86; found in the centre of the city, including of Nations. labels (even on many of the trees).
INFORMATION Sri Siva Temple.....................................39 A2 DRINKING

CENTRAL YANGON
YA N G O N
0 200 m
YA N G O N
0 0.1 miles AA Pharmacy.........................................1 C2 Super One Department Store................40 B1 ABC Country Pub.................................80 C2
Australian Embassy................................ 2 D4 Café Aroma..........................................81 C1
A 94 B C D Bagan Bookshop....................................3 D3 SLEEPING Da Best 69 Entertainment.....................82 A2
95 88 58
27 109 97 Bookstalls................................................4 B1 Central Hotel.........................................41 B1 Diamond White Bar............................(see 41)
Bogyoke Aung San Rd Bookstalls...............................................5 D3 City Star Hotel......................................42 C2 Emperor Entertainment.........................83 A2
New Bogyoke 40 37 100 Bogyoke Aung San Rd British Council Library...........................(see 6) Daddy’s Home.....................................43 A3 Golden Triangle Bakery.........................84 B3
Market 4
75 96 41 104 British Embassy...................................... 6 D4 Garden Guest House............................44 C3 Mr Brown Café.....................................85 C2
72 55 81 91 51 36
1 Camera/Film Shops................................7 C2 Golden Smiles Inn.................................45 B3 Silver Oak Café....................................86 D3
Bo Aung Kyaw St
59 10
Optometrists Central Bank of Myanmar......................8 C3 Mahabandoola Guest House.................46 B2 Strand Bar..........................................(see 52)
Maha Bandoola Garden St

78 92 87
Sule Paya Rd
Optometrists 15
Central Telephone & Telegraph Office...9 C2 May Fair Inn.........................................47 D3 Theingi Shwe Yee Tea House...............87 D1
34th St
35th St
36th St
33rd St
Cyber World II......................................10 C1 Mayshan Guest House.........................48 C2 Zawgyi’s Café.......................................88 B1
ὈὈ
21 12 DHL...................................................(see 55) New Aye Yar Hotel..............................49 D3 Zero Zone Rock Restaurant..................89 A2
Open-Air Exotissimo Travel................................(see 37)
Market 38
61 Okinawa Guest House..........................50 B3
Kodak Fire Station...........................................11 C2 Panorama Hotel....................................51 D1 ENTERTAINMENT
19 67 74 Express 93 Free Bird Tours.....................................12 D1 Strand Hotel......................................... 52 D4 Aladdin Recreation Centre................... 90 D3
32
Anawrahta Rd 68 73 Global Network Co...............................13 C2 Sunflower Hotel....................................53 B2 Cinemas...............................................91 C1
Theingyizi 53 Anawrahta Rd
7 Good New Travel...............................(see 95) Tokyo Guest House.............................. 54 D3 Nay Pyi Daw Cinema............................92 C1
Plaza 77
34
Bo Sun Pat Rd Indian Embassy.....................................14 C3 Traders Hotel........................................55 C1
85 Internet Café......................................(see 98) White House Hotel...............................56 A3 SHOPPING
83 98 Inwa Bookshop.....................................15 C1 Ava Tailoring........................................93 C2
29th St
99 57
30th St
39th St
37th St
40th St
Main Post Office.................................. 16 D4 EATING Bogyoke Aung San Market....................94 B1
38th St
2 11 42 May Pharmacy.....................................17 C2 999 Shan Noodle Shop.........................57 C2 FMI Centre............................................95 B1
82 63 64
102 Myanma Foreign Trade Bank................18 C3 Adorns Kitchen.....................................58 B1 Global Tailoring.....................................96 B1
24th St
89
48 Myanmar Oriental Bank........................19 B2 Morning Market...................................97 D1
23 1
APK Kitchen Thai Food.........................59 B1
76
39 13 Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)..........20 B3 Bharat Restaurant.................................60 D2 Myanmar Shopping Mall......................98 C2
80 60 New Zealand Embassy..........................(see 2) Golden City Chetty Restaurant.............61 C1 Theingyi Zei (Market)...........................99 A2
24 17
33 Mahabandoola Rd 29 Mahabandoola Rd Santa Maria Travel & Tours...................21 B1 Golden Duck Restaurant.......................62 B3
35 46 Sule Paya 69 US Embassy..........................................22 C3 Grand Mee Ya Hta.............................(see 58) TRANSPORT
28 108 9
79 J Donuts...............................................63 C2 Air France...........................................100 C1
Kon Zay Dan St

70 44 65
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES J Donuts.............................................(see 59) Air Nippon Airways..........................(see 100)
26th St
Shwe Bontha St
20
30
Seikkan Thar St
28th St
Cholia Jama Mosque.............................23 B2 MacBurger...........................................64 D2 Birman Bangladesh.............................101 D3
Bo Aung Kyaw St
27th St
Pansodan St
32nd St
31st St
43 City Hall...............................................24 C2 Mandarin Restaurant............................65 C3 Indian Airlines.....................................102 C2

25th St
50 26 101
3 Customs...............................................25 C4 Nan Yu.................................................66 C3 Japan Airlines.....................................(see 95)
Mahabandoola 54 High Court Building..............................26 C3 New Delhi Restaurant...........................67 B2 KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines.................. 103 D4
Garden 18 66
Holy Trinity Cathedral...........................27 A1 Nila Biryani Shop...................................68 B2 Malaysia Airlines.................................104 B1
3 56
Immanuel Baptist Church.....................28 C2 Nilar Win’s Cold Drink Shop.................69 D2 Myanma Airways.............................(see 103)
45 90
5 Immigration Office...............................29 C2 Okinawa Restaurant.............................70 B3 Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL) Passenger
Merchant St Independence Monument....................30 C3 Palei Kywe Restaurant..........................71 D4 Jetty............................................... 105 C4
Strand 84 Merchant St 49 Law Court............................................31 C4 Myanma Port Authority..................... 106 D4
Rd Pizza Corner..........................................72 B1
62 8
22 47 Methodist Telugu Church.....................32 D2 Shami Food Centre...............................73 C2 Myanmar Airways International.......(see 102)
14
86 Moseah Yeshua Synagogue..................33 A2 Shwe Htoo Restaurant..........................74 B2 Pansodan St Jetty...............................107 C4
Ban
k S Mosque................................................34 B2 Tokyo Fried Chicken.............................75 B1 Pick-ups to Thanlyin...........................108 C2
t
Narsapuri (Moja) Mosque.....................35 B2 Tokyo Fried Chicken.............................76 C2 Silk Air..............................................(see 100)
31
St Mary’s Cathedral..............................36 D1 Var Lunch Home..................................77 B2 Thai Airways....................................(see 100)
Stra Sakura Tower.......................................37 C1 Yakiniku Japanese Barbeque.................78 B1 Train Ticket Office..............................109 C1
nd
Rd Sri Kali..................................................38 A2 Yatha Teashop..................................... 79 D3 Yangon Airways Office...................... 110 C4
25
110
103 52 2 6 16 71
106
4 Strand Rd The eastern side of the lake is dominated brave the powerful sun. There aren’t many
Yan
gon by a very expensive government-financed opportunities for shade, really only scat-
Rive project including a small park and play- tered umbrellas, popular with young couples
r
105
107 ground for children as well as the fanciful or sneaking a little alone time.
monstrous – depending on your taste – Ka- Inya is north of the city, stretching be-
raweik, a reinforced concrete reproduction of tween Pyay Rd to the west and Kaba Aye Pa-
Tigers and lions and a fair selection of untamed nature or meditative quiet here a royal barge. Apart from being something goda Rd to the east; certain areas along the
both common and scarce Asian animals (in- as the sidewalk surrounding the circumfer- of a local attraction in its own right, the Ka- lakeshore – occupied by state guesthouses
cluding sambar, leopard, serow, Eld’s deer, ence of Kandawgyi also runs alongside a raweik (Sanskrit for garuda) – the legendary and ministerial mansions – are off-limits to
Malayan sun bear, goral, Indian muntjac, busy road. Also known by its literal transla- bird-mount of the Hindu god Vishnu – is the general public.
great hornbill, python, cobra and the huge tion, Royal (Dawgyi) Lake (Kan), the lake also the name of a government-owned res- Before reclusive dictator Ne Win died in
marsh crocodile) are on display. Unchained seems at its most attractive at sunset, when taurant nearby. Traditional dance perform- December 2002, he resided on University
elephants carry passengers on three-minute the glittering Shwedagon is reflected in its ances are held here in the evenings. Ave at one end of the lake while Aung San
rides for K500. A row of large pens in the calm waters; you’ll find the best sunset view Suu Kyi, who at the time of research was still
back house a massive Himalayan giffon, from the lake’s eastern edge. Inya Lake under house arrest at No 54, was at the other
and a few great hornbills among other large Several of the city’s embassies, clinics and a='"y;"kn'' end. For years these two important figures in
birds. smaller hotels are in the lake’s vicinity, the Inya Lake itself is hidden from street level contemporary Myanmar history had resided
majority north of the lake. Just east of the view – a shame as a walk or drive around like powerful nat locked in a battle of wills.
Kandawgyi Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, on the southern the perimeter reveals only that something
kn'etÉäkI" side of the lake, floats a Shin Upagot shrine. is probably on the other side of the earthen Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems Market
Occupying prime Yangon real estate, this Upagot is a Bodhisattva or Buddhist saint berms. The lake (Map p86) is roughly five ¨mn'm;¾ekY;k'mYk'¨ptiuk'NH='¾ aer;='"¨pxn'"
natural lake (Map p90) close to the city cen- who is said to protect human beings in mo- times larger than Kandawgyi but to see ac- Just north of Parami Rd, this museum (Map
tre is a good place for a stroll. Don’t expect ments of mortal danger. tual water you must explore on foot and p86; %665 365; 66 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; admission US$3;
104 YA N G O N • • A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • W a l k i n g T o u r – D o w n t o w n Ya n g o n 105
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is meant to impress – ACTIVITIES Central Train Station (Map p98; Bogyoke Aung San Rd) right, in name at least, the highest legal
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
starting with the world’s largest sapphire Swimming and the last trip of the day departs around authority in the land. Continue south on
that comes from Mogok to the northeast Most of the top-end hotels have pools and 5pm. Trains depart approximately every 30 Pansodan St, past Merchant Rd to Strand
of Mandalay. The sapphire measures 17cm many are open to the public for a few dol- minutes though not all do the full circuit. Rd, the last east-west thoroughfare before
in height, and is nearly 12kg in weight; lars. Admission to some includes access to The train is least crowded on weekends. the Yangon River.
this somehow translates to 63,000 carats. the hotels’ gyms and saunas. The nicest of To buy tickets look for the ticket window On your left is the Strand Hotel (6; p109),
The museum also boasts the world’s largest these are the Sedona (US$5), the Kandaw- next to an oval track map at the eastern end whose restored façade evokes another era
jade boulder, rough ruby, and star sapphire. gyi Palace (US$5) and the Nikko Royal Lake of the station. and whose air-conditioned lobby, café and
Other not-so-impressive claims include the (US$5). Three public pools in Yangon charge bar make a good rest-stop along the way.
only mineral with ‘imperial’ in its name. fees (usually US$3) for daily use and are gen- WALKING TOUR – Ready to brave the heat and uneven side-
The Gems Market is spread over three erally open from 6am to 8pm: DOWNTOWN YANGON walks again, walk west along Strand Rd for
floors. In a currently poor country famous Kokine Swimming Club (Map p90; %550 034; 34 Start your tour of downtown at the 2200- a block past Pansodan St where you’ll see
for valuable resources, the museum offers Sa Ya San St) year-old Sule Paya (1; see p97) the geographic the Customs House (7), built in 1915, on one
an unintended lesson in beauty, politics and Yangon Swimming Club Pool (Map p98; %278 550; and commercial heart of the city, and where corner and the Law Court (8), an impressive
money. U Wi Za Ra Rd) Attached to the He & Me Food Centre & the British-designed grid street pattern was looking colonnaded building on the other –
Music Pub, which offers snacks and drinks in an open-air centred. After a complete rotation or two both institutions best admired (figuratively)
Na-Gar Glass Factory setting. and visit inside, cross the busy traffic circle from afar. Turn north up Mahabandoola
ng:"fn'e¨mmHn'e¨mck'Tu® Yangon University Swimming Pool (Map p90; to the east and you’ll find the twice rebuilt Garden St or the less pedestrian friendly
The glass factory (Map p86; %526 053; 152 Yawgi %531 889; Inya Rd) City Hall (2). On the next corner further east Sule Paya Rd. On the other side of Merchant
Kyaung St, Hlaing Township; admission free; h 9.30- on Mahabandoola Rd is the Immigration Of- St, you can’t miss the 50m obelisk, a monu-
11am & 12.30-3.30pm) is an interesting place to Running fice (3), once one of the largest department ment to the country’s independence stand-
explore, with lots of hand-blown glass on An informal group does a 3km and 6km run stores in all of Asia. Across the street is the ing in the middle of popular Mahabandoola
display, in a surprisingly pleasant indoor- between the Traders Hotel and the Zoologi- Immanuel Baptist Church (4) originally built in Garden (9; p101). This brings you back to the
outdoor setting. It was this place that pro- cal Garden/Kandawgyi area every Sunday. 1885. Continuing east on Mahabandoola, Sule Paya from where you can continue on
vided the huge, mesmerising eyes of the Inquire at the Traders Hotel (see p110). take the next right onto Pansodan St where west down Mahabandoola Rd through the
reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi Paya (see you’ll see the High Court Building (5) on your chaotic Indian and Chinese quarters (10) of the
p99). Unusual wine glasses, small vases and Traditional Myanmar Massage
the like are also for sale at very reasonable Most top-end hotels offer professional tra- 11
prices here. It’s well worth your while pay- ditional Myanmar massage. Maybe the most
Bogyoke Aung San Rd
ing a visit. The friendly, giggly owner is decadent is the Strand Hotel (p109) where
usually on hand to give you a tour of the sessions (US$75, 90 minutes) are preceded
Bo Aung Kyaw St
workshop. by a soak in a rose-petal–sprinkled tub. Silk
Sule Paya Rd
34th St
35th St
36th St
33rd St
The factory isn’t signposted, and is well pyjamas are provided. Also try:
ὈὈ
hidden down a jungly driveway. Most taxi La Source Beauty Spa (Map p90; %512 381; 1 Shwe
drivers in the downtown area aren’t famil- Li Rd) Body scrubs, facials, hair salon, and special bridal Anawrahta Rd
iar with the factory, and it definitely helps packages. Theingyizi

Plaza
if you tell them it’s located in Hlaing (pro- Seri Beauty and Health (Map p90; %534 493; 103
Bo Sun Pat Rd
nounced lie-eng) Township. A taxi from Dhama Zedi Rd; upper body massage US$3) Skilled and
29th St
30th St
32nd St
31st St
0 200 m
the downtown area should take about 15 friendly. Every eighth massage is free. 0 0.1 miles
ὈὈ
minutes one way and cost around K3000 1
for a return trip. Train Ride Mahabandoola Rd 10
2
3
More in the category of sightseeing rather Mahabandoola Rd
Other Attractions than transportation, the Yangon Circle Line

4
Kon Zay Dan St
Shwe Bontha St
Seikkan Thar St
Bo Aung Kyaw St
22nd St
(Yangon train station: %274 027; US$1) is a slow

23rd St
Opposite the Shwedagon Paya to the west, 25th St

24th St
28th St
26th St
27th St
Pansodan St
5
37th St
39th St
38th St
the People’s Park (Map p90; admission US$3; h7am- moving, not particularly comfortable three-
42nd St
40th St
41st St
9
7pm) is a huge expanse of grass and trees hour trip around Yangon and the neigh- Mahabandoola
Garden
that is bisected by People’s Square, a wide, bouring countryside. However, for US$1,
socialist-style pedestrian promenade. Near it’s a great way to get a quick overview of Merchant St
Merchant St
a set of fountains just to the south of Peo- the sprawling capital. There are actually Strand Ban
ple’s Square is a children’s playground area, two trains, one clockwise and one counter- Rd k S
t
and in the southeastern corner of the park clockwise, and it takes about three hours to 8
there are a couple of armoured tanks on complete the loop in either direction. You 7
Stra
display. The entrance to the park is on the can always hop off at any station and take Yango nd
Rd 6
n Riv
eastern side, by the Shwedagon Paya’s west- a taxi back to the city centre. The first train er Strand Rd
ern gate. leaves around 6am from platform 6/7 at the
106 YA N G O N • • C o u r s e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S l e e p i n g 107
city. Every block along the way is crammed Kawthoung area (p167 for kayaking and boat trips and exact percentage of ownership – whether 14; a) It’s a good thing the White House
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
with shops and street vendors selling every- p333 for diving trips) the government is a majority or minority rooftop has hammocks and swings and that
thing under the sun. Anywhere along the Putao area (see p225) For hiking in the far north of the shareholder and exactly what this means – the views are so spectacular because the
way you can turn right, or north, for several country. is difficult to ferret out (see p331). steep climb to get here is an aerobic work-
blocks until you hit Bogyoke Aung San Rd. The obvious appeal of the hotels just out. Some of the rooms are weirdly shaped
It shouldn’t be hard to determine where the FESTIVALS & EVENTS north of the city centre in the Kandaw- and the design scheme is somewhat funky –
Bogyoke Aung San Market (11; p121) is from Crowds of pilgrims descend on the Shwe- gyi area are the breathtaking views of the shards of glass and mirrors and tiles – but
here; a nice place to end your walk and begin dagon for a paya pwe (pagoda festival) from Shwedagon Pagoda, especially at night. things are kept clean and the common areas
a new sort of tour, a slightly more difficult 29 February to 7 March, one of the more The lake itself provides a peaceful back- at the top are crowded with potted plants.
one that involves walking and shopping at important Myanmar holidays. drop for several clustered hotels around its Breakfast is better than average and the
the same time. Other major festivals in Yangon include shores. The city becomes more suburban front desk is a one stop shop for all your
the following: and spread out the further north you go bus and tour information.
COURSES Independence Day (4 January) Includes a seven-day fair towards Inya Lake. Golden Smiles Inn (Map p102; %373 589; mya
Meditation at Kandawgyi; see p340. [email protected]; 644 Merchant St; r US$5-12; a)
Several monasteries in Yangon welcome Water Festival/Thingyan (April) The Myanmar New City Centre Golden Smiles is centrally located, up a flight
foreigners to meditation courses. For more Year is celebrated by a wet pandemonium. See p340 for The author’s choice for this price range can of stairs from a grubby street-level entrance.
information see p335. more details. be found on p108. There’s nothing outstanding about the eight
Buddha’s birthday (April/May) See p340 .. basic rooms and lighting can be dim despite
Thai Chi & Martial Arts Martyrs’ Day (19 July) Commemorating the assassination BUDGET the sunny balcony hangout/breakfast area.
The art of Tai Chi is practised daily at dawn of Bogyoke Aung San and his comrades. See p341 .. Prices quoted generally include a rudimen- All the rooms have air-con, the more ex-
at Mahabandoola Garden, near the Sule Murugu Festival Held at Yangon’s Hindu temples (see tary eggs-and-toast breakfast. Payment is pensive rooms have private bathroom and
Paya. p101), it involves colourful processions. accepted in US dollars, and sometimes kyat. the staff is helpful and friendly.
Burmese kickboxing instruction for be- Street noise, especially in the early morning, May Fair Inn (Map p102;%384 183; mayfair.inn@
ginners is offered on the ground floor of the SLEEPING is a nuisance at many of the options. mptmail.net.mm; 57 38th St; r US$9; a) This inn
YMCA (Map p98; %294 128, 296 435; Mahabandoola Rd, Judging by the number of large top-end Motherland Inn 2 (Map p90-1; %291 343; www.myan between Merchant and Strand has several
near Thein Byu Rd; hbeginners 7-9am Tue, Thu & Sat, business-style hotels cropping up all over marmotherlandinn.com; 433 Lower Pazundaung Rd; r US$7- clean, carpeted rooms. The modern bath-
experienced 3-5pm Mon, Wed & Fri). There’s usually the city, the hospitality industry in Yan- 13; ai) While the Motherland Inn 2 (the rooms make up for the slight inconvenience
someone around who can translate the es- gon is alive and well. Low occupancy rates, original Motherland has since closed) is a of night-time–only air-con and hot water.
sentials, though you should mostly expect though, belie the wisdom of the hotel build- long walk or a short taxi ride from the cen- The May Fair isn’t the place to meet other
to learn by example. Techniques taught here ing boom and heavy rebates are to be had tre itself, it’s one of the best value options travellers and there is no welcoming com-
incorporate some moves borrowed from by the savvy traveller. Practically all of the in this category and is deservedly popular mon area or extra domestic touches despite
Thai and international boxing. budget options are located in the busy city with the backpacker set. This well-managed the fact that it is family owned.
Visitors are welcome to participate in centre area but room rates are high and the hotel’s modern and green façade is easily YMCA (Map p98; %294 128; 263 Mahabandoola Rd;
boxing upon becoming members; if you’re quality low when compared with budget noticeable on this quiet residential street. r US$8-19; a) At the time of writing a new
staying at the YMCA, you’re welcome to accommodation in Mandalay. It’s worth The rooms themselves are simple but ex- nine-story wing was in the works, three
use the facilities for a small donation. In- considering spending a few extra bucks ceptionally clean; several triples with fan floors dedicated to accommodation. Rooms
quire at the main office on the upper floor and taking the jump to midrange accom- or air-conditioning are also available. A in the original building are large, sparse and
for more information. modation if you’re only in the capital for complimentary airport shuttle runs twice decorated only with concrete but they do
Saya Pan Thu, founder of the Institute of a night or two. a day and breakfast is outstanding for this have windows – a plus in the budget cat-
Myanmar Traditional Advanced Boxing (Map p90; 15 Many of the midrange and top-end hotels category. The pricier rooms have private egory. Free transport to/from the airport
Aung Chan Tha St, Hledan Rd, Kamayut Township) teaches provide airport pick-ups and offer Internet bathrooms. is available. Both men and women are wel-
a more traditional Burmese kickboxing style access and full-service business centres. Okinawa Guest House (Map p102;%374 318; 64 come here, although double rooms are os-
on most Saturdays at 4pm at the Yangon Only a few accept credit cards in person 32nd St; dm US$5, s/d with bathroom US$10/15; a) tensibly for married couples.
University campus. Pan Thu doesn’t speak so it’s worthwhile booking and paying for The only downside to the Okinawa’s six Sunflower Hotel (Map p102; %240 014; sunflower
much English, nor apparently do any of his reservations online where rates are often beautifully furnished all-wood rooms is the [email protected]; 259/263 Anawrahta Rd; r US$8-15;
students. heavily discounted anyway. Even if you do erratic power supply, which means no hot a) Located in the heart of the busy Indian
just show up unannounced you’ll rarely water and air-conditioning only at night. If quarter on the corner of Shwe Bontha St
TOURS have to pay the advertised price. Some of neither are concerns, this distinctive guest- and Anawrahta Rd, the Sunflower offers a
Yangon is a good place to organise tours the top hotels add on an additional 10% house just a short walk from Sule Paya is an variety of neat if airless and character-free
to some difficult-to-reach places, including service charge and 10% government tax. excellent option; even the attic-level dormi- rooms. The pricier rooms with air-con also
the following. The operators are listed in Almost all hotels, even the mostly lowly tory room is attractive. Just look for the red have TV.
the referenced pages. budget place, will store luggage while you’re roof and brick exterior on this otherwise Tokyo Guest House (Map p102; %287 143; 200
Chin State (p329) Includes hikes and bird-watching on away up country. nondescript street. Bo Aung Kyaw St; r US$6; a) Though rooms in
Mt Victoria in the west of the country. Note: most of the top-end hotels are joint White House Hotel (Map p102; %240 780; white this 2nd floor guesthouse are barely large
ventures with the government although the house@ mptmail.net.mm; 69-71 Kon Zay Dan St; r US$5- enough for a bed and are windowless, they
108 YA N G O N • • S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S l e e p i n g 109
is an especially quiet block at night so you Panorama Hotel (Map p102; %253 077; panorama@ this 11-storey hotel on the corner of Bo Myat
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THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE should be able to sleep undisturbed. mptmail.net.mm; 294-300 Pansodan St; s/d US$22/30; Tun St are decidedly not good value. The
Haven Inn (Map p98; %295 500; phyuaung@ Ocean Pearl Inn (Map p98; % 297 007; www ai) Within walking distance of the train larger, higher priced ones have the standard
mptmail.net.mm; 216 Bo Myat Tun St; s/d US$10/ .oceanpearlinn.com; 215 Bo Ta Taung Pagoda Rd; s/d US$10/ station and the Bogyoke market, the aptly amenities in this category. There’s a genera-
15; a) There’s no more homey and invit- 15; ai) In the same neighbourhood as the named 10-storey Panorama’s rooms offer tor to cover frequent power outages and free
ing place to retire to after a busy day of Haven and Three Seasons, the newly opened good views of downtown Yangon. Its wide airport transfer for groups of six or more.
sightseeing in Yangon. The Haven Inn, an- Ocean Pearl is another high-value option. marble atrium lobby seems slightly dated Central Hotel (Map p102; %241 007; www.myan
nounced only by a small neon sign, is lo- While the rooms don’t have as much charm and in some of the rooms the carpets are mars.net.central; 335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d US$30/
cated on a relatively quiet street east of the as the other two, there is satellite TV and it’s fraying and the paint is peeling. However, 35; ai) Next to the Traders Hotel and
city centre. The five well-furnished rooms kept so clean you can see your reflection in location and professional and attentive ser- just across the road from Bogyoke Aung San
are often all booked in high season. Each the floor. Not only are the willing-to-please vice offset these flaws. Market, the Central offers large and clean,
has air-con, minifridge, large private bath- front desk staff able to book air, bus and Yoma Hotel (Map p98; % 297 725; yoma.one@ if unremarkable, standard rooms and larger
room and comfortable mattresses though train transport but there is 24-hour room mptmail.net.mm; 146 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d US$15/18; suites. All rooms have air-con with private
all are window-free. Room 101 is surpris- service for those with late night cravings. ai) Not as nice as its Yoma 2 counterpart bathroom, fridge and phone. The hotel has a
ingly large and includes a desk and sepa- Mayshan Guest House (Map p102; %252 986; may- (p112), the Yoma gets by on its central loca- good Chinese restaurant and a very popular
rate sitting area. The 1st-floor living room [email protected]; 115-117 Sule Paya Rd; s/d US$15/22; tion and the business-friendly professional- bar/café, the Diamond White Bar (p118),
area and 2nd-floor breakfast space are all ai) It’s hard to top the Mayshan’s loca- ism of its staff. The quality of the rooms adjacent to the large lobby. The Central is a
dark wood. Dr Htun, the friendly owner tion, a half a block north of Sule Paya. The themselves varies; some with low ceilings good place to change dollars for kyat.
of this family-run retreat, is an excellent vibe is less family and intimate than others, have seen better days while there are nicer, Sakhantha Hotel (Map p98; %249 518; Yangon Cen-
source of information. nevertheless the small, tiled modern rooms newer ones too. There are five floors and no tral Train Station; s/d US$15/25; a) Basically a wing
are well-kept and have satellite TV, a good lift. Monthly rates are available on request. of the train station, the Sakhantha’s rooms
way for new arrivals to pass the early morn- Queen’s Park Hotel (Map p98; %296 447; qphotel@ are so big and the ceilings so high that a
are clean and well-kept and there is a sunny ing jet-lagged hours. There’s a lift and a mptmail.net.mm; 132 Anawrahta Rd; s/d US$15/22; a train carriage could probably fit inside. You
breakfast area filled with plants and books. lobby and breakfast area, both good halfway i) The very small lower priced rooms in don’t really need all this space and there
Bathrooms are shared. points between the privacy of your room
The following are bare-bones and only and the crunch of the outside streets. The
last resorts: Mayshan is also one of the few places where THE STRAND HOTEL
Daddy’s Home (Map p102; %252 169; 107 Kon Zay you can access personal hotmail email ac- Strand Hotel (Map p102; %243 377; www.ghmhotels.com; 92 Strand Rd; superior ste US$425, Strand ste US$900;
Dan St; r per person US$4-10) Only a few doors from the counts (30 minutes for US$3). ai) Royalty, both the Hollywood kind and the more traditional, make the Strand their home
White House. New Aye Yar Hotel (Map p102; %256 938; newayar@ away from home in Yangon. Mick Jagger, Oliver Stone, the King of Tonga, George Orwell, Noel
Garden Guest House (Map p102; %253 779; 441-445 mptmail.net.mm; 170-176 Bo Aung Kyaw St; s/d US$18/20; Coward and Somerset Maugham all slept here.
Mahabandoola St; s/d from US$4/6) Fronting Sule Paya. a) One of the best high-rise entries in this ‘When in Singapore stay at the Raffles’, the saying used to go. (Actually it was ‘feed at the Raf-
Mahabandoola Guest House (Map p102; %248 104; category, the New Aye Yar has a regal look- fles’ and stay somewhere else, but never mind.) Similarly, when you are in Yangon, the place to
93 32nd St; s/d US$3/5) Also fronting Sule Paya. ing lobby fronted by two stone lion statues stay, if you can afford it, is this property located between 38th and Seikkan Thar Sts. The Strand
guarding the entrance. Unusual in this price was originally constructed by the Sarkies brothers, of Raffles fame, in 1896, and was one of those
MIDRANGE range, you get spiffy uniformed porters and glorious outposts of the British empire early in the 20th century. During WWII it was forced to
Yangon’s accommodation options in this a selection of foreign newspapers for pe- close, only to reopen in 1948, under the auspices of London’s Steel Brothers Co.
price category have expanded rapidly. Some rusal. All of the large rooms have satellite Ne Win nationalised the property in 1963 and in its latter-day socialist role the Strand became
hotels will accept credit cards. Almost all TV, fridges and big, inviting bathrooms. a run-down shadow of its former self – certainly no competition for the well-kept likes of Raffles
offer discounts in the low season and if you Lower priced rooms have carpeting, while or The Oriental in Bangkok. Yet somehow, the old colonial era lived on at the Strand. All of this
stay for an extended period of time. The for a few dollars extra you can get one of changed again in 1991, when Dutch-Indonesian resort impresario Adrian Zecha and his company
two best value choices, as well as the au- the much nicer, newer all wood (floors and began spending US$36 million to renovate the grande dame. By the beginning of 1995, 32 rooms
thor’s choice (see above), are within a few furniture) rooms; some have panoramic had been totally redone and opened to the public.
blocks of one another. views of the city. Though well beyond the budget of many visitors to Myanmar as a place to spend the night,
Three Seasons Hotel (Map p98; %293 304; phy- Thamada Hotel (Map p98; %243 639; thamada the Strand is well worth a visit for a drink in the bar, high tea in the lobby lounge or a splurge
[email protected]; 83-85 52nd St; s/d US$12/20; [email protected]; 5 Signal Pagoda Rd; s/d US$25/30; lunch at the café. Unlike the Oriental or Raffles, the hotel isn’t appended to touristy shopping
a ) Similar in style and appeal to the a) Rooms in this six-storey hotel just malls and souvenir shops. The décor doesn’t bowl you over with a surplus of ornamentation
Haven Inn, the Three Seasons is owned by across from the train station and next to the either, and the staff is more laid-back and less snobbish to nonguest visitors.
the same family. If one is full they’ll escort cinema of the same name, are surprisingly Each suite here is elegantly finished in the colonial style, with plenty of brass and teak and
you to the other. High ceilings and spotless luxurious. Everything in the bedrooms is all the amenities expected at hotels of this calibre. The renovated guest rooms are divided into
wooden floors are complimented by mod- done in teak with a few special touches such eight superior suites, 23 deluxe suites and one apartment-like Strand Suite. To all rates, add
ern bathrooms and tasteful furnishings. as local artwork and photography. But it’s the mandatory 20% tax and service. Among the public facilities are a dinner-only restaurant, an
Friendly staff serves up an outstanding the spacious bathrooms that are the real opulently finished bar decorated with local art, a café and a small business centre. All guests
breakfast – part Western, part Burmese – standout. Some rooms have baths and those are met at the airport.
in the sunny 2nd-floor sitting area. This in the back are quieter.
110 YA N G O N • • S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S l e e p i n g 111
isn’t enough furniture to justify its size but rooms have balconies facing the front. The buildings, are large and nicely decorated. to walk from your room to the bar or one
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this plus its colonial-era style makes it a Pioneer (p120), a popular nightclub is at All rooms feature fridge, TV and phone; of the excellent restaurants on the 2nd floor
unique choice. the rear of the building. there are also more expensive suites. Rates (see p117). Most of the rooms have windows
Both the City Star Hotel (Map p102; %250 291; include laundry service. that open out onto the pool area.
www.citystarhotel.com; 169/171 Mahabandoola Garden St; Shwedagon & Kandawgyi Area Summer Palace Hotel (Map p90; %527 211; fax Kandawgyi Palace Hotel (Map p90; %249 255;
s US$20-25, d US$25-30; a) and the Lai Lai Hotel This area of the city is generally quieter 525 424; 437 Pyay Rd; s/d US$20/25; ais) The www.kandawgyipalace.com; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; s/d US$80/90;
(Map p98; %227 878; fax 227 342; 783 Mahabandoola than central Yangon. It’s also convenient Summer Palace, set back from the road near ais) Architecturally, the Kandawgyi
Rd; s/d US$15/25; a) are modern Chinese-style for walking to Shwedagon Paya, the zoo the Myanma TV and radio broadcast sta- Palace looks like an extension of the nearby
high rises in the heart of Yangon. Higher and Kandawgyi. It’s not a place to seek out tion, is a diminutive version of one of the Shwedagon Paya, blending seamlessly into
priced rooms have windows with good budget accommodation. larger top-end hotels in the city. It’s only the fairytale vistas from the lake shore.
views of the chaos below. six-storeys and 56 rooms but has an ef- Rooms are mostly teak and wicker and if
MIDRANGE ficient business centre, professional service you stay in one of the paya-side suites the
TOP END Winner Inn (Map p90; %535 205; www.winnerinn and a small swimming pool and bar at the windows frame the scene like a picture post-
Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel (Map p98; %250 388; myanmar.com; 42 Than Lwin Rd; r US$20-25; ai) The rear. card. The hotel has several fine restaurants
www.grandplaza.yangon.parkroyalhotels.com; 33 Ah Lan Winner is a low slung building that’s at- Panda Hotel (Map p98; %212 850; www.myanmars with Burmese, Asian and also European fare
Paya Pagoda Rd; s/d US$60/70; ais) A swanky tached to a four-storey wing between Inya .net/pandahotel; 205 Wadan St; s US$20-25, d US$25-30; (see p116), including a nightclub and 24-
350-room hotel just north of the city centre, Lake and Shwedagon Paya. Rooms are very ai) This 13-storey high-rise west of the hour coffee shop. There is also a business
it comes complete with wood and rattan good value, complete with private bath- city centre, is another high quality business- centre and a beautiful outdoor swimming
furnishings, Japanese and Chinese restau- room, fridge and satellite TV; there is a din- oriented midrange hotel in a residential pool guarded by a giant stone dinosaur. For
rants, café, disco/pub, business centre, fit- ing room overlooking the garden. Higher area. Rooms have all the standard ameni- those with royal fantasies, there are several
ness centre and tennis court. Rooms here priced rooms are larger. ties, plus some have excellent views and amazing bungalows with private Jacuzzi,
are exceptional value, especially if on one Guest Care Hotel (Map p90; %511 118; www.guest there’s a small gym. It offers free airport pool and butler service.
of the floors with a combo business centre, carehotel.com; 107 Dhama Zedi Rd; s/d US$24/32; ai) transfers. Summit Parkview (Map p90; %211 888; www
library and lounge. At the time of research All guests at the Guest Care have access to .summityangon.com; 350 Ahlone Rd; s/d US$50/55, studio
the Grand Plaza Park Royal was accepting the top floor viewing area with spectacu- TOP END ste US$220/230; ais) A top choice among
Visa cards, and was also allowing guests to lar unobstructed views of the nearby Shwe- Pansea Yangon (Map p98; %229 860; www.pansea business travellers, it stands within walking
withdraw cash with their cards for 8% com- dagon Pagoda. Rooms at this hotel are kept .com; 35 Taw Win St; s/d US$150/170; ais) To distance of Shwedagon Paya. The volumi-
mission; traveller’s cheques are changed for spick and span. Larger rooms have sitting truly be pampered and live like a sovereign nous marble lobby is designed to impress;
only 3% commission. areas and some touches of antique furni- on holiday, this elegant teak mansion in the the hotel’s 252 rooms come with satellite
Traders Hotel (Map p102; %242 828; fax 242 800; ture; all have satellite TV and minifridges. leafy embassy district is for you. The Pansea TV, in-house movies and 24-hour room
www.shangri-la.com; 223 Sule Paya Rd; r US$70-75, ste Mya Yeik Nyo Royal Hotel (Map p90; %548 310; was once a guesthouse for important na- service; suites and studio suites cost more.
US$110; ais) Because of its imposing www.myayeiknyo.com; 20 Pa-le Rd; r US$35, r in old bldg tionals of the Kayah ethnic group visiting In addition to a useful hotel clinic and dis-
22 storeys and 500 rooms, and because it’s US$100; ais) There are two very dif- the city, but now after a masterful restora- pensary, the Summit features a fitness cen-
anchoring one of the busiest street corners ferent Mya Yeik Nyos right next to one tion it’s a foreigners ideal of colonial luxury. tre, newsstand, hair salon, shopping arcade,
in the city, Traders has achieved landmark another. One is a modern, slightly kitschy In the 2nd-floor open-air lounge area with several travel agents, a bakery/café and also
status. This hotel, part of the Shangri-La looking four-storey building, the other is bar and pool table, and most especially the a restaurant.
chain, enjoys a reputation for good service a stately, old mansion built by the British rooms, everything is wood and handicrafts Hotel Nikko Royal Lake Yangon (Map p90; %544
and is popular with conferences and busi- as an office for the legendary Irrawaddy and paintings set off with soft plush cush- 500; www.nikkoyangon.net; 40 Nat Mauk Rd; superior
ness meetings. It has a very decent book/gift Flotilla Company (IFC). The rooms in the ions and bright colours. It’s a feast for the s/d US$90/100, deluxe US$120/140; ais) This
shop, business centre, fitness centre and ex- former are large and comfortable though senses and is worth a visit even if you’re not large, imposing hotel overlooking Kandaw-
cellent restaurant and bar facilities. All rates the furniture is mismatched and feels like an overnight guest. There’s an excellent res- gyi has none of the charm or character of
include breakfast, airport transfer, laundry a 70s-era suburban living room. Grand taurant, Mandalay (p116), serving French other hotels in this price range. It does have
and local phone calls. Traders also has a free restoration plans for the latter include six and Asian cuisine in a pond-side setting. all the amenities you’d expect: a business
laundry service and a generous check-out massive incredibly unique rooms filled with Savoy Hotel (Map p90; %526 289; www.savoy centre with secretarial service, a fitness cen-
time of 6pm. Significant discounts can be local handicrafts and sculptures and lit by -myanmar.com; 129 Dhama Zedi Rd; s/d US$90/135; tre and large pool (K1500 for nonguests), a
found online. elegant chandeliers. The MYN Royal’s land- ais) Everything inside the Savoy is grand ballroom, a very good Japanese res-
Yuzana Garden Hotel (Map p98; %248 944; 44 scaped grounds afford clear views of the done so perfectly that it’s easy to forgive taurant and a brasserie serving excellent
Signal Pagoda Rd; s/d US$36/48; ais) From Shwedagon Paya. the fact that it’s situated right on a busy Bamar, Mediterranean and Thai cuisine.
a distance the colonial façade looks grand Bagan Inn (Map p90; %541 539; pinegrp@mptmail street corner with heavy traffic. A cross be-
and impressive but, like an ageing movie .net.mm; 2 Nat Mauk Ln – 29 Po Sein Rd; s/d US$40/60; tween the Pansea and a smaller version of North & Inya Lake Area
star, reveals it’s wrinkles and cracks upon a) This is a well-managed place sitting the Strand, the Savoy is excellent value in The remainder of the hotels are well north
closer inspection. The lobby was probably in its own large, landscaped compound this category. Hallways, rooms and even the of the city centre; the majority are along
elegant in its day and the oversized rooms on a quiet street, just north of Kandaw- lavish bathrooms are stocked with photo- or just off Insein Rd or Pyay Rd, which
are attractive though some are a little mil- gyi. Owned by Hong Kong Chinese, the graphs, antiques, handicrafts and sculptures, are both long avenues running north to
dewy and need a touch-up. More expensive inn’s 25 rooms, in three separate two-storey all of museum quality and it’s a pleasure just south.
112 YA N G O N • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • E a t i n g 113
MIDRANGE s) The Renaissance is a 239-room com- The more humble-looking the restaurant it’s probably the most modern of the Shan
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Aurora Inn (Map p90; %525 961; fax 525 400; 37A plex, about 6km north of the city centre on appears, the more locals probably frequent noodle shops.
Thirimingalar St; s US$10-15, d US$20-30; a) Hid- 37 acres of landscaped grounds near Inya it. Figure on spending no more than K1000 999 Shan Noodle Shop (Map p102; 130B 34th St;
den down a narrow street off Pyay Rd, this Lake. It’s not much to look at from the out- per person for a full spread, not including most noodle dishes K400) Four or five tables are
French-managed place encompasses two side but the facilities and rooms are fairly beverages: crammed into this tiny eatery behind City
older buildings; the one at the back is dec- sumptuous and elegant. There’s an excellent Feel Myanmar Food (Map p98; %725 736; 124 Hall a short walk from Sule Paya. The menu,
orated with antiques and contains a snack fitness centre, tennis courts, business centre Pyihtaungsu Yeiktha St; meals K2000) The Feel does printed in English and Burmese, includes
bar. Rooms are spacious, and the more ex- and several restaurants and cafés. The Dusit heavy lunch-time business; a mixed crowd filling Shàn k’auq swèh (thin rice noodles
pensive rooms have air-con. The attached Inya frequently hosts conferences and ban- of locals and foreign embassy staff pack the in a slightly spicy chicken broth), and myi
restaurant serves good French cuisine. quets. Room rates are excellent value for a all-wood dining room that resembles a pri- shay (Mandalay-style noodle soup). Noodle
Yoma Hotel 2 (Map p90; %531 065; 24A Inya Rd; top-end Yangon hotel. vate home in northern Myanmar. Choose dishes are served with fried tofu triangles
s/d US$21/28; ai) A small, 17-room hotel from a great looking array of dishes laid and jars of pickled cabbage. The kitchen may
that, like its Yoma 1 counterpart, it is very EATING out buffet style in the back. There are a few sell out of some items by early evening.
service-oriented and a popular spot in this Yangon is the culinary capital of the coun- other Feel Myanmar outlets in the city; this Maw Shwe Li Restaurant (Map p98; %221 103; 316
price range with business travellers. Lower try. From street food, to cheap Bamar and is the nicest, though. Anawrahta Rd, Lanmadaw Township; curries K1000) This
long-term rates are available. Indian eateries, to high-end restaurants with Aung Thuka (Map p90; 17A 1st St; venison curry K1000; is another good Shan eatery west of the city
Shwe Hinthar Inn (Map p86; %533 295; roswin creative chefs serving European, Thai, and h10am-7pm) On a small side street between centre. The small, friendly, out-of-the-way
[email protected]; 51 Pyay Rd; s/d US$30/40; as) Japanese cuisine, eating is an unexpected Shwe Gon Daing and Dhama Zedi Rds near place is usually crowded with locals, and
It’s a converted colonial building offering 18 highlight of a visit to the city. Eat early – by the Shwedagon Paya, Aung Thuka features the curries are excellent and cheap; Shan
well-appointed rooms on spacious grounds; 10pm all but a couple of 24-hour places, a a simple dining room decorated with My- specialities include pei pot kyaw (sour bean
rates include continental breakfast. There few large hotel cafés and the Strand will be anmar calendars and movie posters, and condiment) and hmo chawk kyaw (fried
is a large garden and poolside bar on the ready to close. There are also a few music furnished with linoleum-top tables and mushrooms).
grounds. It’s near the northern end of Inya clubs/cafés that serve food until 11pm. wooden chairs. Along one side of the room Lashio Lay Shan Restaurant (Map p98; %259 015;
Lake, next to the Philippine embassy. are dozens of pots containing the day’s cur- 71 51st St; mains under K1000) A popular, simple
Royal White Elephant Hotel (Map p86; %503 Bamar ries and special dishes; you’ll automatically little place near the corner of Mahaban-
986; [email protected]; 11/15 Kan St, 6 miles; s/d US$20/ Eating options outside Yangon are limited receive soup, dhal, rice and side dishes. doola and 51st Sts, it serves excellent Shan
24; a) This place is near Inya Lake off Pyay to mostly Bamar cuisine so many travellers Hla Myanma Htamin Zain (Beautiful Myanmar Rice mains.
Rd. It’s a four-storey building with elevator take advantage of the relative diversity and Shop; Map p90; 27 5th St; curries K1000; h10am-7pm)
and receives raves for its friendly service. hold off on Bamar cooking until they leave Near the Aung Thuka restaurant, this place Thai
However, the spacious, carpeted rooms are the capital. While this is an understandable is sometimes called Shwe Ba because a fa- Yinn Dee Thai Restaurant (Map p90; %526 526;
beginning to wear around the edges. strategy to keep the taste buds guessing, it mous Burmese actor of that name once had 126 Dhama Zedi Rd; freshwater catfish salad K2200; a)
Liberty Hotel (Map p90; %525 974; fax 524 144; 343 would be unfortunate as there are several his house nearby. Like Aung Thuka it’s a Thumbing through the small phonebook-
Pyay Rd; s/d US$24/28; a) Near the Hanthawady Bamar restaurants more interesting than very simple, plain restaurant, where the food sized menu is an exercise in gustatory
roundabout in an elite residential neigh- those upcountry. is served from rows of curry pots. There are masochism. Fortunately, the food comes
bourhood is this two-storey colonial man- also some Chinese and Indian dishes. quickly and when it comes it tastes as good
sion converted to a hotel. The rooms are Green Elephant Restaurant (Map p90; %535 231; as the photos look. Yinn Dee Thai’s menu
large and high-ceilinged, and there’s also THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE www.elephant-house.com/restaurant; 519A Thirimingalar is more creative than its competitors and its
a much larger family room. There’s a nice Sandy’s Myanmar Cuisine (Map p90; %525 St; dishes K2500) Tour groups make this restau- dining room more elegant.
garden out back. 195; 290 U Wi Za Ra Rd; vegetable entrees K1500, rant down a narrow side street off Pyay Rd Sabai Sabai Thai Restaurant (Map p90; %544
meat entrees K3000) There’s no better place part of their Yangon itinerary. If you don’t 724; 232 Dhama Zedi Rd; dishes K000; a) One of the
TOP END to try Bamar cooking than at Sandy’s over- mind rubbing elbows with other foreign- more popular restaurants in Yangon, Sabai
Sedona Hotel (Map p90; %666 900; www.sedona looking serene Kandawgyi. The colonnaded ers, the upmarket and slightly Westernised Sabai is in a new location but the extensive
myanmar.com; 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; r US$75; ais) colonial building and outdoor patio seat- Bamar curries, salads, meat and seafood menu and homey, welcoming atmosphere
Towering over Inya Lake, the Sedona is a big ing heighten the surprisingly affordable dishes are quite satisfying. Service is very remain the same. The menu isn’t as inter-
conventional hotel. There are no real special dining experience. Try the Be’Ou-Pazun- good and the restaurant includes an up- esting as that in the Yinn Dee Thai’s but the
touches or acknowledgments that this is in- Ahsar-Thoor-Gyaw – just pronouncing it is market craft shop. portions are large. Prices are in US dollars
deed Yangon, however the rooms are very a mouthful – duck eggs filled with minced and kyat.
comfortable and good value. Discounts are prawns (K3000), pumpkin soup (K1500) and Shan Padonmar Restaurant (Map p90; %536 485; 78
usually available for stays of three nights or meat-filled clay pot (K4500). The mohinga Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Restaurant (Map p98; Inya Rd; dishes K1800; a) The menu here is a mix
more. The hotel boasts a popular fitness cen- (rice noodles with chicken or fish) break- Bo Yar Nyunt St; dishes K1000) Opening onto the of Thai- and Bamar-influenced Thai dishes
tre, large outdoor pool, sauna, tennis courts, fast here, compared with the same meal busy corner of Nawady St, Aung Min- (or is it Thai-influenced Bamar dishes)?
business centre, good bookshop and several served in the average teashop, is like the galar is an excellent place to simultane- Whatever it is, the ground nut and tomato
restaurants including the Orzo (see p116). difference between haute couture and ously indulge in people watching and the curry (K800) is especially good. Open late,
Dusit Inya Lake Resort (Map p86; %662 857; sweat pants. sweet sound of noodle sipping. Waiters are the curiously decorated garden dining area
www.dusit.com; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; r US$70; ai uniformed in Aung Mingalar T-shirts and is a good place for a late, leisurely dinner;
French and Australian wines and mixed Palei Kywe Restaurant (Map p102; %296 094; so, the service is snappy, so the wait for de- Japanese restaurant (no shoes, floor seating)
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drinks are available. 44 Bo Aung Gyaw St; dishes K800; h10am-9pm) This licious biryanis isn’t long. It’s between 31st enjoys a stellar reputation because of its
Silom Village Restaurant (Map p86; %527 448; restaurant is in the city centre near the main and 32nd Sts in the city centre. high quality sushi and sashimi. The hot pot
647A Pyay Rd; K2000; a) Just north of Inya Rd in post office, between Strand Rd and Mer- Shami Food Centre (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd) A and barbeque dishes are also excellent.
Hlaing township, this large bustling open- chant St. It serves excellent northern Chinese block east on the same side of Anawrahta Ichiban-Kan (Map p98; %245 027; 17-18 Aung San
air restaurant does very good Thai classics. fare at reasonable prices. The roast duck is Rd, this place serves fare similar to the Nila Stadium; noodle dishes US$3-10; a) This small old
The atmosphere is fun – although the ser- a speciality. Biryani and is owned by the same family. school–style Japanese restaurant is in the
vice can be spotty when they’re busy. Mandarin Restaurant (Map p102; %272 960; 126 Both offer vegetarian biryani, as well as the northwest corner of the stadium. The small
APK Kitchen Thai Food (Map p102; %250 437; 369 Mahabandoola Garden St; dishes K800) Near the cor- usual chicken. menu focuses on soup and noodle dishes.
Shwe Bontha St; dishes K1200; a) Attached to the ner of Mahabandoola Rd, just across from Bharat Restaurant (Map p102; %281 519; 356 Yakiniku Japanese Barbeque (Map p102; %374
grocery of the same name, you can watch the park, this place is owned by the same Mahabandoola Rd; mains from K600) On the corner 738; 357 Shwe Bontha St; bbq dishes K1000; h10am-
shoppers through the window in the restau- family that runs the Mayshan Guest House. of Seikkan Thar St, this place is dependable 10pm; a) Yakiniku is just down the block
rant while you eat. The food is better than The Mandarin offers the usual assortment of and cheap; it’s similar to the New Delhi with from the Bogyoke Aung San Market. Tables
you’d expect from the fast-food style bench northern Chinese dishes, vegetarian fare and more of a focus on South Indian flavours. here have small gas-fired grills built into
seats, and it’s easy to pick out favourites fresh fish in a clean and fan-cooled setting. Bharat’s marble-topped tables make a nice them, and you’re responsible for cooking
from the big photo-filled menu. Nan Yu (Map p102; %252 702; 81 Pansodan St; dishes change from the long cafeteria-style tables your own raw meat and fish.
K1200; a) The Nan Yu has all the usual Can- at the Indian places on Anawrahta Rd. Okinawa Restaurant (Map p102; 32nd St; K1000)
Chinese tonese specialities. Golden City Chetty Restaurant (Map p102; 170 Owned by the same family as the Okinawa
You can sample the whole range of Chi- For noodles, fried rice and other quick Sule Paya Rd) Just north of the Sule Paya, on Guest House down the block, this casual
nese cuisine in Yangon – from the familiar Chinese meals, try the night market (Map p98; the eastern side of the street, this place fol- restaurant does good Singapore-style fried
Cantonese to the less well known Shanghai, Madaw Rd) in Chinatown, around the corner lows the usual pattern for Yangon’s Indian rice.
Sichuan, Beijing or Hokkien dishes. from the Cantonese temple. restaurants – white-tiled walls and bright
Singapore’s Kitchen (Map p98; %226 297; 524 fluorescent lights; it’s one of the few city- Korean
Strand Rd; dishes K1500; h10am-1am; a) This is Indian centre Indian places open after 7pm. Han Il Kwan (Map p86; %533 898; 46 Inya Rd; mains
one of the best Chinese restaurants in town. Along Anawrahta Rd, west of Sule Paya Rd Var Lunch Home (Map p102; Shwe Bontha St) Two K4000-8000). For genuine Korean and the best
It offers excellent food and good service with towards the Sri Kali temple, are a number doors south of Anawrahta Rd and the Sun- kimchi (salted, pickled vegetables) to be
a choice of upstairs or down, fresh fish on of shops serving Indian biryani (kyettha dan flower Hotel, Var Lunch serves tasty dhal as found in Yangon, look for the large red Han
display, an open kitchen and tables that spill bauk in Burmese), and at night the roti and well as chicken, mutton and veggie curries – Il Kwan sign on the left side of 6½ miles on
onto the footpath during fair weather. At dosa (a thin crepe filled with potato; spelt all on banana leaves, South Indian style. Pyay Rd. Along with a main dish, you get
night it’s a bright and busy place, and even toeshay on menus) makers set up along the Good, cheap and authentic – it costs about a small vegetable salad and at least eight
better is the late closing time. Besides sea- pavement on the side streets. Indian food is K800 for two people. side dishes with various kinds of kimchi.
food, it does a good job of crispy-fried duck, probably the cheapest way of eating in Yan- There are some very good upmarket In- Various noodle and Chinese and Japanese
as well as lots of veggie and noodle dishes. A gon, particularly at places that serve thali dian restaurants north of the city centre. dishes fill out the menu. Wash it all down
10% service charge is added to the bill. (all-you-can-eat meals of rice and vegetable Ashoka Indian Restaurant (Map p90; %555 539; with Korean soju (K5000), a delicious rice
Golden Duck Restaurant (Map p102; %241 234; curries piled on a fresh banana leaf or stain- 28B Pho Sein Rd; mains from US$5; a) Up the road liquor that packs a punch.
222-224 Strand Rd; duck mains K1800; h10am-10pm) less-steel plate), which often cost only K200. from the Nikko Hotel in a nicely restored World Cup (Map p90; Dhama Zedi Rd; mains K3000-
The Golden Duck is a busy, popular little Biryani costs a bit more, around K300. old home is the Ashoka serving up excel- 5000) Diagonally opposite the Savoy Hotel
place offering seafood and, of course, duck. New Delhi Restaurant (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd) lent, mostly North Indian cuisine. Portions on Dhama Zedi Rd, World Cup is another
It doesn’t have the ambience of the nearby It does a variety of North and South Indian are small but that justifies ordering several Korean favourite. It serves galbi tang (a de-
Singapore’s Kitchen, but it serves excellent dishes for as little as K200. The selection in- courses including piping hot breads and licious rich beef soup) as well as marinated
food and is good value. cludes puris (puffy breads), idli (rice ball in filling samosas. The dining room is large meat (usually pork rib) to eat with the kim-
Yin Fong Seafood Restaurant (Map p90; %546 broth), dosa and banana-leaf thalis and a va- and service formal and attentive. chi. Pictures of World Cup footballers deco-
149; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; dishes K4500; a) This restau- riety of curries for lunch and dinner. Over- Royal Taj Restaurant (Map p90; %542 899; 138C rate the walls.
rant directly across from the Kandawgyi head fans keep the swarms of bugs attracted University Ave Rd; mains from US$4) Another very
Palace Hotel is deservedly popular. A few by the ceiling lights from dive bombing your good North Indian eatery just east of Kaba Vietnamese
of the specialties are squid with garlic sauce food. No tea here, only coffee, South Indian Aye Pagoda Rd and Inya Lake with excel- Vietnam House Restaurant (Map p90; %554 957;
(K4600), wasabi cuttlefish (K4800), shark style. The restaurant opens onto the street lent tandoori dishes and veggie curries. 287 Shwe Gon Daing Rd; dishes K800) Between Kaba
congee (K4800), and also medicinal eel soup between 29th and Shwe Bontha Sts. Prices are moderate. Aye Pagoda Rd and Chaukhtatgyi Paya, this
(K4200). Shwe Htoo Restaurant (Map p102; cnr Anawrahta Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Map p98; %720 place has an excellent local reputation, and
Western Park (Map p98; %225 143; Thakhin Mya Rd & 30th St) This restaurant is open later than 126; Amusement Park, Zoological Garden Compound; mains the prices are moderate.
Rd; dishes K1800) Near Thakhin Mya Park and most and is good for a quick palata (fried US$5) Another very good choice.
the bus terminal at the corner of Strand Rd, flatbread) or biryani plate; it’s between the French
the Western Park is a big banquet style hall. New Delhi and Nila Biryani. Japanese Le Planteur (Map p90; %549 389; 16 Sawmaha St;
Its menu lists a wide variety of styles and Nila Biryani Shop (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd) Al- Furusato Japanese Restaurant (Map p90; %556 265; mains US$15-25; a) Widely considered the
dishes but the specialty is the juicy duck. though it's always crowded, and deservedly 137 West Shwegondine Rd) Fursato, a traditional best restaurant in Yangon, the cost of a meal
at Le Planteur matches its exalted reputa- is hip and stylish inside, outside it’s hid- Traders Hotel Restaurant (Map p102; %242 828; Chinese-influenced and Indian-influenced
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tion. A list of just a few of the delicacies will den behind a cement wall at the corner of 223 Sule Paya Rd; brunch US$12, dinner US$18) In the teashops. This place, between Seikkan Thar
whet the appetite of foodies: boneless frog Dhama Zedi and Inya. The décor is mini- Traders Hotel, this restaurant serves inter- and 39th Sts, represents the latter, provid-
leg appetizers, chowder of Japanese scal- mal but the pop music is loud. Service is national, Cantonese, Japanese and Burmese ing fresh samosas and palata.
lops with black truffles and Myanmar white slow but friendly, a few of the dishes are cuisine and elaborate buffet dinners. The The Golden Dragon Teashop (Map p98)
beans, and locally caught filet of parrot inventive while the burgers are only basic. Gallery Bar on the 2nd floor does a lavish and Lucky Seven Teashop (Map p98) are
fish. The all-you-can-eat barbecue – ribs, 50th Street Bar & Grill (Map p98; %298 096; 9-13 brunch, which includes well-prepared Bamar lively teashops serving good snacks and are
steak, chicken, seafood and vegetables – 50th St; pizzas US$7; a) No detail or cliché is curries, Chinese steam pot, roast duck, souf- in the vicinity of several good midrange
comes with free drinks for the first two missing, from the pool table to the news- flés and desserts. guesthouses east of the city centre.
hours of the barbecue – with drinks in- papers to the overpriced Cokes (US$2) to Parkview Café (Map p90; 350 Ahlone Rd; mains
cluding wine, beer, Johnnie Walker and soft the mediocre pizzas, pastas and sandwiches. K6000, buffet K8500) At the Summit Parkview Street Food
drinks – every Thursday, Friday and Sat- Everything it’s assumed an expat misses. Hotel, it is another good place for Sunday Lit up like Times Square, little makeshift
urday night. It costs a reasonable K18,000. The 50th Street, near the corner of Merchant brunch; this one with both veggie and non- grills and small plastic tables line 19th St be-
To find Le Planteur, follow the signboard St is a popular hang-out with both expats veggie Indian cuisine. Buffet dinners from tween Mahabandoola and Anawrahta Rds
on Nat Mauk St, next to Kandawgyi near and locals alike. Prices are in US dollars, around the world are served Thursday to in Chinatown. To order, point to what you
the Hotel Nikko. though you may pay in kyat as well. Lunches Sunday nights. want – a selection of meat and fish skewers
L’Moliere (Map p86; %501 558; 49 Pyay Rd; mains are half-price Monday to Friday. Kipling’s Restaurant (Map p90; %526 289; mains (K150), artichokes and bean curd. It’s a bit
US$12;a) Opened in 2004, L’Moliere is pic- K9000-17,000, 4-course dinner K17,000) Kipling’s has of a men’s club, though there’s no reason
turesquely set right on Inya Lake. The chef Hotel Restaurants a German chef but mostly Italian fare; the to think women aren’t welcome. Another
specialises in fish and seafood, but meat Most of the hotel restaurants stay open until Bierstube (beer, wine and German food) and good Indian stall (selling good barbecued
dishes, especially the lamb cutlets with dau- 11pm. the Captain’s Bar (happy hour from 6pm fish) is nearby on Latha St, just south of
phinoise potato are also excellent. Fantastic Strand Grill (Map p102; %243 377; 92 Strand Rd; to 8pm daily and Wednesday from 8pm Mahabandoola Rd, next to Vilas Beauty
chocolates round out the meal. h6-11pm) The Grill is one of Yangon’s most to 11pm) are both in the Savoy Hotel on Salon. Snack places for dessert are around
J’s Bistro & Bar (Map p98; %220 284; 59 Taw Win expensive restaurants, with changing conti- Dhama Zedi Rd. the corner on Mahabandoola Rd.
Rd; soups K3500; a) Connected to the boutique nental dinners starting at about US$25. Less Travellers keen to avoid government- The noodle stalls on 32nd St, near the
J’s Irwaddy Dream in the same elegant teak formal (and less expensive) is the hotel’s owned places should bypass the Karaweik Sule Paya, are very cheap and very good.
building, J’s is popular with foreign em- Strand Café (entrees from US$9; h6.30am-11pm), Palace Restaurant, which is a remarkable Food stalls serving curries and rice – for
bassy staff on lunch breaks. Besides a few which offers well-prepared soups, salads looking structure on Kandawgyi. experienced stomachs only – can be found
French dishes, plus several Thai and Bamar and sandwiches, as well as a number of along the eastern side of Bo Galay Zay St.
inspired ones, the menu includes good Burmese and Asian-inspired dishes. There Teashops
cheeses, desserts and bread. is also a proper and filling high tea, from Yangon’s numerous teashops are not just Fast Food
2pm to 5pm daily. The cost is US$14 per places to have cups of milk tea or coffee If you’re seeking more of a café-style atmos-
Italian person. or tiny pots of Chinese tea. They are great phere, see p118.
L’Opera Restaurant (Map p86; %566 662; 20 Thukha La Maison du Lac (Map p90; %249 255) The Swiss places for cheap Burmese, Chinese and In- Sharkey’s (Map p90; 4B Golden Valley) A favourite
Waddy Rd; pizzas US$9; a) One of the better chef at this restaurant in the Kandawgyi Pal- dian snacks. For breakfast, in fact, you’re with the expat community, it sells locally
and more elegant restaurants in Yangon, ace Hotel prepares special set French dinners often better off spending a few kyat in a made cheese, yogurt, pizzas (part cooked –
L’Opera boasts well-trained and smartly (US$15) every Friday and Saturday. teashop, rather than eating the boring toast, you need your own oven to finish it off),
dressed wait staff but more importantly Shiki-Tei (Map p98; %250 388) This elegant egg and instant-coffee breakfasts provided pesto, olives, sundried tomatoes, as well as
is the Italian owner and chef’s meticulous and modern Japanese restaurant in the by many hotels and guesthouses. home grown roquette and other vegetables
preparation. L’Opera is east of Inya Lake, Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel is one of the Sei Taing Kya Teashop (Map p90; 53 Za Ga War St; and fresh herbs. The Burmese owner, who
just south of Kanbe St, in a pretty little best in the city. The set lunch (US$5) is a h7am-5pm) This is the most famous tea- acquired his cheese-making skills in Eu-
residential cul-de-sac. The outdoor garden good deal. tippling spot in Yangon. It has six branches rope, also cures his own hams and chorizo,
seating is a bonus in good weather. Lunch Mandalay Restaurant (Map p98; % 221 462; and the most happening branch is near and makes pâté to die for. Sharkey’s is
is even more affordable, including delicious 35 Taw Win St; mains US$10) At the ritzy Pansea the Israeli embassy. It serves top-quality found in Bahan township close to the Aus-
seafood pizza. Yangon, this is a serene restaurant serv- tea, samosa, palata, mohinga (rice noodles tralian embassy.
Café Dibar (Map p90; %006 143; 14/20 Than Lwin ing outstanding French- and Burmese-style with chicken or fish and eggs) and ei-kya- Pizza Corner (Map p102; %254 730; 397 Shwe Bon
Rd; mains K3000; a) Around the corner from cuisine; it’s a perfect place to splurge. kwe (deep-fried pastries). A branch east of Thar St; pizza K2000-2800; a) This Pizza Hut–
the Savoy Hotel, in a strip mall of a few Adorns Kitchen (Map p102; %256 355; dishes the city centre is at 103 Anawrahta Rd, on style joint is a block from Bogyoke Aung
other restaurants, Café Dibar is an informal K2500) Consistently rated as the top Chinese the corner of 51st St. There’s another just San Market. The lights are bright and the
and less expensive Italian bistro. The sea- restaurant in Yangon, Adorn’s can be found south of the Theinbyu Playground and by décor is American fast-food to the hilt but
food pizza and lasagne are excellent. in the Grand Mee Ya Hta Executive Resi- Kandawgyi, on Thein Byu Rd. the veggie and meat pizzas are tasty. Pasta
dences next to the FMI Centre. Yatha Teashop (Map p102; %349 341; 353 Ma- and fried chicken are also on the menu.
Other Western Orzo (Map p86; mains K8000) Downstairs in the habandoola Rd; h7am-5pm) Mahabandoola Rd Ginza Pan Food Center (Map p98; %379 234; 29 Gyo
Onyx (Map p90; sandwiches K2000; a) Not entirely Sedona with a view of the pool, this Italian has a couple of more modest establishments Phyu Rd; a) The Ginza Pan, across from Aung
sure of what it wants to be yet, the Onyx restaurant serves good pizza and pastas. that typify the general division between San Stadium, suffers from an identity crisis.
118 YA N G O N • • D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 119
Is it a café, a fast-food joint, a full-service h6pm-midnight) Founded by famous Burmese café near the Defence Services Museum with formance of Burmese classical dance-drama
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restaurant, Myanmar or Thai, or a bakery? vocalist Nay Myo Say, this dark café/bar interesting glass tables, it has international at the National Theatre (Map p98; Myoma Kyaung Rd),
It’s actually a combination of all of the above features live folk music from about 7pm to newspapers and magazines free for perusal a government-sponsored facility, northwest
and doing all of them adequately. midnight nightly. Well-known Burmese mu- while downing a burger (K780) or cappuc- of Bogyoke Aung San Market.
Tokyo Fried Chicken (Map p102; 156 Mahabandoola sicians drop by frequently to sit in with the cino (K750). CDs are sold here as well. Scenes from Ramayana – called Yama
Garden St; h8am-9pm; a) There are several regular house group. The clientele is a mix Café Aroma (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd; h8am-11pm; Thagyin in Burmese – are only occasionally
outlets of TFC, Yangon’s very own version of locals and expats. Along with music and a) The Starbucks of Yangon, this café has held. Check at the theatre itself or try asking
of KFC. One is just north of Mahabandoola drinks, Asian and European food is avail- several outlets around the city. The Sule staff at the larger hotels.
Rd and the other is across the street from able. Foreign beers such as Corona will set Paya Rd branch, next to the cinema, is
Bogyoke Aung San Market. you back K4400. the most central, and offers fine, freshly Dinner Shows
Nilar Win’s Cold Drink Shop (Map p102; %278 Frenz Bar & Grill (Map p90; %547 324; Kaba Aye brewed coffee and fruit smoothies (from There are a few large, banquet-style restau-
364; 377 Mahabandoola Rd; h8am-11pm) This long Pagoda Rd; hnoon-late) A sleek place, especially about K500) in a stylish setting. Pasta and rants with floorshows in Yangon. Heavily
established clean little café is four blocks for Yangon, Frenz keeps the décor minimal- pizza dishes are also available for K800 to used by the visiting business community,
east of Sule Paya (between 37th and 38th ist and, like trendy bars everywhere, risks K1400. Other Café Aroma outlets are at the these dining spots are typically Chinese-
Sts). You can get yogurt, lassi (a delicious style over substance. Live music, mostly cov- Yuzana Plaza, just east of Kandawgyi and at owned and feature extensive Chinese menus
Indian yogurt drink, plain or blended with ers, is on offer every night apart from Sun- the La Pyat Wun Shopping Centre. plus a few Burmese dishes. Entertainment is
fruit) as well as fruit salad, toast and egg day. Burgers (K3800), pizza, pastas, Indian Golden Triangle Bakery (Map p102; %378 869; provided by Burmese bands that perform a
(just K80), French toast and other traveller cuisine, steaks and seafood make up the cul- 641 Merchant St; h8am-5pm; a) It has three lo- mixture of Burmese, Western, Chinese and
delicacies. turally diverse menu (K2200 to K5000). cations throughout the city including one Japanese pop songs. Some places also fea-
J’ Donuts (Map p102; Shwe Bontha St) is just south 50th Street Bar & Grill (Map p98; %298 069; 9- across the street from the Golden Smiles ture Burmese classical dance and/or mari-
of Bogyoke Aung San Rd, while MacBurger 13 50th St, h11am-10.30pm) Popular with local Inn and another in the British Library. The onette theatre.
(Map p102; Pansodan St) and another J’ Donuts (Map Burmese and expats on Friday and Saturday bakery does delicious cheese cake (K850), LakeView Theatre Restaurant (Map p90; %249
p102; Pansodan St) are opposite each other be- nights, this bar has a pool table and brick- biscuits and special order cakes, not to 255; [email protected]; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; dinner &
tween Mahabandoola and Anawrahta Rds. oven pizza. There are half-price drinks from mention cappuccinos (K500) and other hot show K7200) Attached to the Kandawgyi Palace
All are open 8am to 9pm daily. 5pm to 8pm Monday to Thursday, 4pm to and cold drinks. Hotel, the entertaining show includes 10
9pm Friday and all day Sunday. Actor’s Corner Café (Map p90; %504 932; 1st fl, traditional Burmese dances; one involves
DRINKING Silver Oak Café (Map p102; 83/91 Bo Aung Kyaw St; Dagon Centre; h8am-7pm; a) Far from Holly- a woman balancing on one foot on a chair
Apart from the bars and cafés listed below, %299 993; hnoon-late) This place, a few blocks wood, this café is still advertised as the place while juggling a cane ball. The buffet din-
Yangon abounds in teashops, where cups of from the Strand is one of the few centres of where stars hang out, and while you may ner of Thai and Burmese favourites starts at
milk tea or coffee, followed by endless tiny gay nightlife in the city. In front is a hair not be able to spot them, the modern roomy 6.30pm, before the show.
pots of Chinese tea and cheap snacks, are salon and behind is the club with live music café is good enough for the hoi polloi. Lone Ma Lay Restaurant (Map p90; %550 357; Nat
available. As these places are a good choice most nights. Mr Brown Café (Map p102; Mahabandoola Garden St; Mauk St, Kandawgyi; dishes K1000) This is among the
for breakfast, we have included them on Captain’s Bar (Map p90; %526 289; 129 Dhama a) Another place to get a break from the best of the bunch of restaurants at Kandaw-
p117. Zedi Rd; huntil midnight) At the Savoy Hotel, heat and sip a cold drink even if the décor gyi that offer entertainment. Shows focus
this bar is popular with both local Burmese is more fast food than café. on Burmese classical and folk dance early
Bars and expats, especially on Wednesday nights in the evening, and pop later on.
Most of the city goes dark around nine. Bur- when there’s live jazz. ENTERTAINMENT Dolphin Seafood Restaurant (Map p90; %250
mese night owls head to one of the clubs Diamond White Bar (Map p102; %241 007; Bogy- Nightlife and Yangon aren’t usually used in 240; Kan Yeik Thar St) Near the aquarium, also on
listed opposite. A lively expat scene rotates oke Aung San Rd; hearly morning-late) It’s a popular the same sentence. The main form of local the lake, the Dolphin Seafood is less formal
around the city during the week: Wednesday drinking hole and café on the ground floor recreation is hanging out in teashops or and known for employing the best Burmese
nights are for the Savoy, Thursday nights of the Central Hotel. There’s a steady stream ‘cold drink’ shops. While Bangkok makes pop singers in town. A recent addition to
Traders, and Friday night the Strand. of satellite TV sport, and prices are good an evening in Yangon seem quaint and the restaurant is karaoke in English, Bur-
Strand Bar (Map p102; %243 377; 92 Strand Rd; and low. provincial, entertainment can be found in mese and Chinese.
h11am-11pm) Though it’s primarily an expat far-flung places around this sprawling city,
scene, this classic bar inside the Strand Cafés unfortunately much of it in large hotels ca- Clubs
Hotel has any foreign liquors you may be Zawgyi’s Café (Map p102; %256 355; 372 Bogyoke tering to foreigners. Yagon’s own interpretation of club culture
craving behind its polished wooden bar. Aung San Rd) Zawgyi’s is next to the FMI Cen- On festival days (some are listed on p106), involves competitive fashion shows and
Occasionally there’s someone around to tre, one of the best people watching spots local bands occasionally organise live out- mostly listless groups of men sipping bot-
play the baby grand. Friday afternoon and in the city. In addition to ice cream, shakes door concerts. During the water festival in tles of Myanmar beer. It’s not clear whether
early evening is a two-for-one happy hour and juices the café menu includes noodle April, sizable rock-music shows are set up an 11pm curfew is de facto or de jure, either
(there’s a standard happy hour all other and rice dishes and sandwiches as well. The along Inya Rd and University Ave Rd and way it’s only periodically and unevenly ad-
days from 5pm to 7pm). The bar is pleas- shop inside sells high-priced handicrafts feature local underground rockers. ministered, dependent on both power sup-
antly relaxed and comfortable despite the and textiles. ply and politics. Most clubs have a nominal
price of the rooms above. Ritz Café (Map p98; %243 934; 296 Shwedagon Pa- National Theatre cover charge that includes the first drink.
Mr Guitar Café (Map p90; %550 105; 22 Sayasan St; goda Rd; h10.30am-10.30pm; a) A hip stylish The Yangon government revived the per- A word of warning: prostitutes are a regu-
120 YA N G O N • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • S h o p p i n g 121
lar feature at many of Yangon’s hot night political reasons; travellers are therefore La Pyat Wun Plaza (Map p98; Ah Lan Paya Pagoda St) textiles, but the market is renowned for its
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spots. Though the government keeps them limited to whatever can fit in their carry-on Not far north of the train station. large selection of traditional Burmese herbs
on the move, there is little concern for their baggage. Yangon isn’t the shoppers’ mecca Markets and medicines. A snake section features the
health or safety, or that of their clients. that Bangkok is, it does however offer a Shopping at the zei (markets, often spelt zay) fresh blood and organs of various snakes,
There are several rooftop clubs in Thein more manageable alternative as there are in central Yangon can be fun, educational some live ones are disembowelled on-the-
Gyi Zay Plaza, on Shwedagon Paya Rd in fewer and smaller outlets and prices tend and a chance to interact with the locals. spot for medicinal consumption. Traditional
Chinatown. Access is provided by lifts open to be even cheaper all around. The long southern stairway at Shwe- Burmese herbal shampoo, made by boiling
to the street. They tend to be open from early dagon Paya is lined with small shops cater- the bark of the tayaw shrub with big black
evening until late. Arts & Handicrafts ing to pilgrims and tourists alike. Popular kin pun (acacia pods) is sold in small plastic
You might find yourself straining to hear A small but thriving local gallery scene ex- items include sandalwood bracelets, small bags; this is the secret of Myanmar women’s
the gentle lap of ocean waves at Zero Zone ists in Yangon, the majority spread around drums, papier mache animals etc. Bargain- smooth, glossy hair. A new mall-like section
Rock Restaurant (Map p102; %373 384; 2nd fl, 2 Thain the relatively posh Golden Valley neigh- ing is expected here. on Shwedagon Paya Rd, Theingyizei Plaza,
Gyi Zay) whose bamboo shelters seem more bourhood. Several painters have achieved Bogyoke Aung San Market (Map p102; Bogyoke contains less-interesting modern shops.
appropriate for a beach club than Yangon recognition abroad and prices in general are Aung San Rd; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun) A half-day could Thirimingala Zei (Map p90; Yangon River bank, Ahl-
rooftop. It’s the most appealing of the bunch not inexpensive. easily be spent wandering around this 70- one Township) Off the northern end of Strand
offering up live music nightly, views of the Wingaba Art Gallery (Map p90; %549 376; eura- year-old sprawling – with over 2000 shops – Rd (about 1km west of People’s Park), is a
city, cheap beer and Myanmar, Chinese and [email protected]; 29 Wingaba St) Contemporary market (sometimes called by its old British labyrinth of vendors selling fresh foodstuffs,
Indian food. Da Best 69 Entertainment (Map p102; paintings, lacquerware and tapestries are on name, Scott Market). Besides the fact that it vegetables, fruits and meat – it’s worth a
City Centre Plaza, Shwedagon Pagoda Rd) and Emperor display in this colonial residence. has the largest selection of Burmese handi- stroll for the amazing sights and smells, not
Entertainment (Map p102; %240 600; 5th fl, City Centre Nandawun (Map p90; %221 271; cnr Baho & Ahlone crafts you’ll find under several roofs, the all of them especially pleasant.
Plaza, Shwedagon Pagoda Rd) are on the same block. Rds) It deals with rare books on Myanmar, market is a fantastic opportunity to smile, San Pya Fish Market (Map p90; Nat Sin St) Catch
Pioneer Club (Map p98; %240 995; 44 Alanpya Pagoda ethnic minority costumes, lacquerware and laugh and haggle alongside Burmese shop- even more of an aroma further north along
Rd, Yuzana Garden Hotel), a disco popular with US gems. pers. Along the maze-like aisles you’ll find the riverfront.
Marines, and other primarily male expats Daw Mya Mya Sein (%542 505; 11 Thiri Zeyar St) a whole variety of interesting Burmese sou- Mingala Zei (Map p90) A little southeast of
and Burmese hosts a ‘supermodel’ show. This is an antique lacquerware shop in the venirs, from lacquerware and Shan shoulder Kandawgyi, this market proffers textiles,
house of the proprietor, who is a former bags to T-shirts and puppets. Pick-up some clothes, electrical appliances, plastic ware,
Cinemas Shan princess. nice slippers here, convenient for all the on preserved and tinned foodstuffs, modern
There’s no better city for Myanmar cine- Traditions Gallery (Map p90; %513 709; 24 Inya and off demanded by paya protocol. Gems medicines, and even cosmetics from China,
philes than Yangon. By a conservative esti- Myaing Rd) Quality reproductions of tradi- and jewellery are also on hand. To store all Thailand and Singapore.
mate there are over 50 theatres, a half-dozen tional Myanmar handicrafts are sold here. this booty, several shops in the market, across Iron bazaar (Map p98; cnr Mahabandoola & Madaw
or so found along Bogyoke Aung San Rd, The director is Claudia Saw Lwin. the street along Bogyoke Aung San Rd and in Rds) Located in Yangon’s Chinatown – you
east of the Sule Paya. Tickets are K800 or Ivy Gallery (Map p98; %297 654; 159 45th St) Be- the New Bogyoke Market, which caters more can find all the items that are used in Chi-
less per seat. Critically acclaimed films are tween Bogyoke Aung San and Anawrahta to the household needs of Burmese, sell an nese cooking here.
in short supply; rather there is a succession Rds, Ivy is run by the director, Myat Min. extensive variety of backpacks of all sizes and Itinerant vendors set up along Anawrahta
of syrupy Myanmar dramas, Bollywood mu- It features a fine collection of modern Bur- brands, some more authentic than others. Rd east and west of Sule Paya Rd from about
sicals, kung-fu smash-ups, plus a few Hol- mese art. Ivy also has a shop in Bogyoke Some of the more interesting shops in 6pm to 10pm nightly, selling everything
lywood blockbusters. Aung San Market at 438 West Row. Bogyoke Aung San Market include: from Chinese toothbrushes to fresh fruit
Nay Pyi Daw Cinema (Map p102; %276 555; Sule Both Golden Valley Art Centre (Map p90; %513 Depi Store (39 West Block) For cheroots and cigars. and shish kebab. Chinatown (Map p98) it-
Paya Rd; a) This cinema across from Trad- 621; 54(D) Golden Valley), and Inya Gallery of Art (Map Eastern Queen (1st fl, 18 Face Wing) Rattan furniture. self extends east-west between Madaw and
ers Hotel and next to the Aroma Café has p90; %530 327; 50(B) Inya Rd) feature exhibits by Jing Phaw Mai Lay (Myanma Silk & Cotton Wear; 93 Shwedagon Paya Rds, and north-south be-
showings throughout the day. It’s one of the contemporary Burmese painters. Central Arcade) & Mya Malar (137 West Wing) At least 20 tween Mahabandoola and Strand Rds.
busiest cinemas in the city. other places in the market also specialise in longyi (sarong-
Thamada Cinema (Map p98; %246 962; 5 Alaung Malls like lower garments). Speciality Shops
Paya St; a) Easily the best cinema for for- There are a number of modern Western- Maung Maw & Brothers (115 Inner West Wing) J’s Irrawaddy Dream (Map p98; %221 695; 59 Taw Win
eigners, it is comfortable and shows fairly style shopping malls with air-con, restau- Modern and traditional musical instruments. St; h9am-8pm) A block north of the Pansea
recent American and international films. rants, cafés and a wide selection of stores Myanmar Lacquerware (1-2 East Wing) Lacquerware. Hotel, this is a handsome shop featuring
American Center (Map p98; 14 Taw Win St) Behind selling everything from hipster T-shirts to Myat Sanda (138 West Wing) Lapheq (pickle tea). high-quality Burmese textiles, clothes, lac-
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, this centre flat screen TVs. The largest and most con- Super Star Antique & National Traditional Goods quer and other handicrafts. It’s an especially
shows free American movies at noon every venient are these: Shop (15 West Wing) good place to find stylish women’s dresses.
Monday. Blazon (Map p90; 72 U Wi Za Ra Rd) Royal Rose (Map p86; %662 576; www.kyolone
Dagon Centre (Map p90; 262-264 Pyay Rd) Theingyi Zei (Map p102; Shwedagon Paya Rd) The .com; Inya Yeiktha St) East of Inya Lake and north
SHOPPING Excel Treasure (Map p90; Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) biggest market in Yangon, this is especially of L’Opera, Royal Rose sells handbags and
It’s unfortunate that shipping goods from FMI Centre (Map p102; 380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Just good for locals who find Bogyoke Aung beautifully crafted women’s slippers, better
Myanmar is either prohibitively expensive east of Bogyoke Aung San Market. San Market a little too pricey. Most of the than the kind sold in Bogyoke Aung San
for most or simply not possible because of merchandise is ordinary housewares and Market.
122 YA N G O N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 123
If your prescription spectacles should go air travel, and p358 for details on domestic site supernatural amounts of luck, patience, as a maintenance yard, warehouse space,
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
missing, optometry stores (Map p102) line air travel, to/from Yangon. and commitment are all possessed by one and a transport hub for shipping goods.
both sides of Shwe Bontha St between Bo- Boat single person at a single extended moment The majority of bus companies do still have
gyoke Aung San and Anawrahta Rds. Along the Yangon River waterfront, which in time. If the stars should align in your offices there.
The Morning market (Map p102; cnr 38th St & wraps around the south of Yangon, are a favour remember there is no fixed schedule
Bogyoke Aung San Rd) has fresh flowers at cheap number of jetties with boats offering long- for departures or arrivals. Bon voyage. To the North
prices. Also try the back entrance to Bogy- distance ferry services. The four main pas- The nicer, air-conditioned buses of compa-
oke Aung San Market, or on early morn- senger jetties (Pongyi, Lan Thit, Kaingdan Bus nies such as Leo Express and Sun Moon Ex-
ings/evenings at Hledan, Myaynigone or and Hledan) service long-distance ferries There are two major bus terminals in Yangon: press head off to destinations to the north
Kyimyindaing markets. headed up the delta towards Pathein or Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal and the Hlaing daily, usually at around 5pm or 6pm. Bus
Yangon is a surprisingly good place to north along the Ayeyarwady River to Pyay, Thar Yar Bus Terminal, described below. companies operating up and down High-
find DVDs of American, British, French and Bagan and Mandalay. Named after the re- There is a third station, smaller and less way 1 include the following (those with
Hong Kong films. Be aware that a number spective streets that extend north from each important than the following two, known ticket kiosks at Aung San Stadium are in-
of DVD shops deal in pirated copies. Here’s jetty, all four are clustered in an area just as Tha-khin Mya Pan-gyan Gate. It is near dicated below):
a disclaimer for liability purposes: the ones south of Lanmadaw township and south- the Western Park Chinese Restaurant. AKM Express (%636 441)
in the following places look genuine. west of Chinatown. When you come to pur- Buses from here, which are generally older Eastern State Express (%639 455)
As well as films, Lucky 7 (Map p98; %371 410; chasing a ticket for a particular ferry from and without air-con, service Bago, Mawbi Hnin Thu Wai (%246 283)
61 Latha St) sells an extensive variety of DVDs the government’s Inland Water Transport (IWT; and Taikgyi. Companies based in Aung Kyaw Express (%242 473; 8-11 Aung San Stadium,
of popular American and British TV shows Map p98; %284 055) deputy division manager’s Mingalar also travel to Bago so the only South Wing)
including the Simpsons and the Office; office, at the back of Lan Thit jetty, be sure real reason to leave from Tha-khin Mya Leo Express (%252 001; fax 240 668; Aung San
Twenty One (Map p98; %245 295; 168 Mahabandoola to ask which jetty your boat will be depart- Park is because the station is within walking Stadium, Eastern Wing)
Rd, cnr 21st St), a much smaller shop nearby, ing from. distance of the city centre. Mann Shwe Pyi Express (%248 970)
sells the usual Hollywood blockbusters. Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL; Map p98; %295 Most signs at the bus terminals are in Rainbow Express (%272 250)
Most of the malls listed on p120 have small 279) ships leave from the MSFL jetty (Map Burmese; however, English-speaking touts Saw Bwa Gyi Gon (%665 545)
shops selling DVDs. The ones on the 2nd p102) – also known as Chanmayeiseikan anxious to steer you in the right direction Sin-ma-lite (%286 588)
floor of Excel Treasure and the 4th floor of jetty – next to Pansodan St jetty. are in abundance. To avoid the hassle and Sun Moon Express (%642 903; Aung San Stadium,
La Pyat Wun Plaza are the best. There are several privately owned com- attention make sure your taxi driver (both Southern Wing)
panies that operate luxury cruises from Yan- of the major terminals are around 45 min- Transnational Express (TNE; %249 671; 22-29 Aung
Tailors gon to Bagan and Mandalay (see p362). utes from the city centre and it’s unlikely San Stadium, Southern Wing)
Yangon isn’t a place you would usually you’ll arrive to either via public bus) knows
think of for tailor-made clothes, but prices PATHEIN where you want to go and even better the Destinations served include the following.
for tailoring are among the lowest in South- IWT boats depart from the Lan Thit jetty name of the specific bus company. Showing Journey times depend on road conditions
east Asia. The selection of fabrics at tai- in Yangon for Pathein at 5pm daily (arriv- the driver your ticket will do; if you don’t and the health of your bus.
lor shops, however, is mostly restricted to ing 10am the next day). The cost is US$7 have a ticket have a Burmese speaker write Bagan (K6500, 14 hours) Ye Thu Aung express buses leave
synthetics. Cotton lengths in prints, plaids, for deck class (an easy chair if you’re early the information on a slip of paper. at around 3pm. To go there via Pyay requires bus changes
solids and batiks can easily be found in the enough) or US$42 per person for a cabin You can buy tickets at the bus terminal in Pyay and Magwe – this seems to be a route only used
larger markets, so you may do better to buy with private bathroom. From Pathein to or at several central locations, mostly op- by those on package bus tours, or with a private car.
cloth at a market and bring it to a tailor Yangon, boats also leave at 5pm and arrive posite the central train station, alongside Kalaw (K7000, 15 to 17 hours) Buses depart in the late
shop for cutting and sewing. at 10am the next day. Aung San Stadium. Many hotels can book afternoon and go over the mountains.
J’s Clothes (Map p98; %220 284; 59 Taw Win Rd) A more luxurious option is the privately tickets for you. Mandalay (K6000, 12 to 15 hours) Buses leave from
This part of J’s Irrawaddy Dream works owned and operated Delta Queen (%246 752; around 4.30pm to 6pm.
with high-quality Myanmar and imported www.myanmar-rivercruises.com; 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, AUNG MINGALAR BUS TERMINAL Taunggyi for Inle Lake (K6000, 20 hours) Get off in
fabrics. Yangon; per person US$170) See p134 for more (HIGHWAY BUS STATION) Shwenyaung and then grab a pick-up or taxi to Nyaung-
Ava Tailoring (Map p102; %2481 56; 124 Pansodan details. Located to the northeast of the airport, shwe on Inle Lake.
St) If you want a traditional, Mandarin-collar Aung Mingalar (Map p86) is the only of- Thandwe for Ngapali Beach (K4500, 17 hours) Go via
Myanmar shirt (for men), try this place TWANTE ficial bus terminal for all 150 bus lines leav- Pyay and Taunggok by Aung Thit Sar Bus or Ye Aung Lan
near the train station at the Anawrahta Rd The alternative to getting to Twante by the ing for the northern part of Myanmar from buses run via Gwa. Neither buses particularly comfortable and
intersection. Dalah ferry/bus combo is to take the two- Yangon, as well as for Kyaiktiyo (Golden the former route is only meant for the hardiest of travellers.
Globe Tailoring (Map p102; %273 416; 367 Bogyoke hour scenic trip along the Yangon River and Rock), Mawlamyine and destinations to
Aung San Rd) Well regarded by local expats for Twante Canal (see p129for details). the south. Prior to April 2003 when Aung To Bago, Kyaiktiyo, Hpa-An and
women’s and men’s tailoring. Mingalar, was christened, another terminal Mawlamyine
DAWEI, MYEIK, & KAWTHOUNG near the airport called Saw Bwar Gyi Gone The names of some of the bus lines that
GETTING THERE & AWAY It’s theoretically possible to travel in a large was known as the highway station. Many ply the specific routes are listed below in
Air MFSL boat south to Dawei, Myeik or Kaw- publications and maps still refer to Saw parentheses.
See p354 for information on international thoung. In reality, it’s unlikely that the requi- Bwar Gyi Gone incorrectly; it’s now used Bago (K500-K1000, two hours) Buses (Phyo and Kyan Tine
124 YA N G O N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 125
Aung) leave every 30 minutes from the early morning to early in the morning. You can usually buy rail travel within Myanmar using Myanma Shwedagon Paya Bus Nos 37, 43 and 46.
YA N G O N
YA N G O N
early afternoon. tickets for the same day. Railways. Chaukhtatgyi Paya Bus Nos 42, 47.
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) and Kinpun (K2500, 4½ Car GETTING AROUND Taxi
hours) Buses (Win and The Tan Kyaw) leave at 7.30am, Many people choose to forgo both public To/From the Airport All licensed taxis carry red licence plates,
8.30am and 9.30am. Other bus companies leave between transport and package tours by hiring a guide Taxi drivers will approach you before exit- though there is often little else to distin-
7am and 1pm. There are also several companies with ticket and car and maybe an additional driver for ing the airport terminal. The standard fare guish a taxi from any other vehicle in Yan-
booths along Pansodan St in Yangon with trips on similar doing DIY tours. For some this combines for a ride from the airport to anywhere in gon. The most expensive licensed taxis are
large, air-con buses to Kinpun; however, these leave the best of both worlds – relative comfort the city is US$3. It’s best to have a few sin- the, usually older, mid-sized Japanese cars;
around 9pm and aren’t very desirable unless you prefer to and safety and flexibility and personalised gle bills so that you don’t have to change many missing their door handles and other
arrive in the middle of the night. itineraries. This can be arranged through a money in the airport (see p89). From the ‘extras’.
Hpa-An (K4000, eight hours) Buses (Ah Swe Taw, Mya travel agent (p89) or hotel front desk. city centre to the airport it can cost slightly Fares are highly negotiable – most trips
Eai Drae, Shwe Hparr Si and Shwe Chin The) leave from less (K2000 to K3000). around the central area shouldn’t cost
6.30pm to 8pm. Train more than K1000 one way, and K1000 to
Mawlamyine (K4000, 10 hours) Buses (Yarzar Min, The most frequented train from Yangon is Boat K1500 for longer trips. You can also hire
Yaung Ni Htun and Mihara) leave from 6pm to 8pm and go the 14-hour trip north to Mandalay. While Cross-river ferries to Dalah (US$1), on the a taxi for about K3000 an hour. For the
via Hpa-An. With a new bridge over the Thanlwin River, Myanma Railways operate most services, a southern bank of the Yangon River, leave entire day, you should pay from US$15 to
BTT buses plan on running nightly buses (K3000, six hours) private company, Dagon-Mann also has a about every 20 minutes from Pansodan St US$30 depending on the quality of the ve-
directly between Yangon and Mawlamyine. service on this route – the 17 up – which jetty (for pedestrians), at the foot of Pansodan hicle and your negotiating skills. Be sure
departs Yangon at 3.15pm. Ask at guest- St from the early morning to the evening. to work out all details before you agree to
HLAING THAR YAR BUS TERMINAL houses or private travel agents for details You can hire privately owned sampans a price and itinerary. From downtown to
This is the bus terminal for travel to the delta and bookings. (flat-bottomed skiffs) from the Pansodan or the highway bus terminal drivers ask for
region (called Ayeyarwady Division) to the Theoretically foreigners are not allowed Botataung jetties for K500 per hour if you K2500 to K3500 and the trip takes from 45
west of Yangon, including destinations such to buy tickets for any berths below 1st class. just want to have a look at the river life. minutes to an hour. To the Hlaing Thar Yar
as Pathein (K2500, 3½ hours), Chaungtha A 1st-class seat costs US$30 (no air-con or Bus Terminal taxis charge around K3000.
Beach (K5000, six to seven hours), and video); an ordinary upper seat US$42; a spe- Bus For all types of taxis the asking fares usu-
Ngwe Saung Beach (K5000, five hours). cial upper seat (reclining) US$45; an ordi- Over 40 city bus routes connect the town- ally leap by 30% or so after sunset and on
Its official name is the Dagon Ayer Bus nary sleeper US$48; and a superior sleeper ships within Yangon. Many buses date to the weekends, when rationed petrol isn’t avail-
Terminal (Dagon is the old historic name of (with private bathroom and fridge) US$50. 1940s. Often, they’re impossibly crowded; a able. Late-night taxis – after 11pm or so –
Yangon). It’s 45 minutes to an hour away by Tickets may be reserved up to a month in Myanmar bus is not full until every avail- often cost double the day rate, mainly because
taxi west of the city centre on the other side advance. It’s possible to get off anywhere able handhold for those hanging off the sides the supply of taxis on hand is considerably
of the Yangon River on Highway 5 (Yangon– along the way, the most relevant stops, and back has been taken. Other routes use lower than in the day, so the drivers are able
Pathein Rd). More than 20 bus lines operate being Bago, Taungoo and Thazi. Another newer air-conditioned Japanese and Korean to charge more.
out of here. line heads north to Pyay and to Kyaiktiyo buses that aren’t too bad; some routes also Many drivers speak enough English to
There are several daily buses to Pathein, and Mottama to the south. use pick-up trucks with benches in the back. understand directions to your destination
Chaungtha Beach and Ngwe Saung Beach, For general train enquiries, call Yan- If you can find a space on a bus you can go but it’s advisable to have someone write
leaving from the early morning until 1pm. gon central train station (Map p98; % 274 027; anywhere in central Yangon for K5. Longer them out for you in Burmese as insurance.
The more comfortable buses tend to leave h6am-4pm). See p367 for information on routes cost K10 to K20. Prices often double
at night – still cheap and still crowded. Train
Useful bus routes include these: A circular train route loops out north from
TRAIN TRAVEL FROM YANGON Bogyoke Aung San Market to Mingala Zei (south- Yangon to Insein, Mingaladon and North
Destination 2nd 1st Sleeper Departure time Duration east of Kandawgyi) Japanese pick-up No 1. Okkalapa townships and then back into the
Sule Paya to Thamaing Junction (8 Mile Junction) city. For more info see p104.
Bagan US$11 US$34 US$34 8.30am, 10am 19hrs Along Insein Rd; bus Nos 44, 45 and 53.
Kyaiktiyo* US$4 US$9 - 7am, 10pm 8hrs Sule Paya to the airport Via Hledan junction, Pyay Rd, Trishaw
Mandalay* US$13 US$30-38 US$50 6am, 11.30am, 3.15pm, 14hrs University of Yangon, western side of Inya Lake and Yangon Every Asian country seems to have its own
5pm, 6.30pm, 7.30pm, City Hotel. Blue bus Nos 51, 53 and air-con No 51. interpretation of the bicycle trishaw. In
9pm Kaba Aye Paya to Mae La Mu Paya Bus No 43. Myanmar, trishaw passengers ride with
Mottama na US$17 - (see Kyaiktiyo) 9hrs Sule Paya to Aung Mingalar Bus Station Bus Nos the driver, but back to back – one facing
Pyay US$17 - - 7am 7hr 43, 45, 51. forward, one backward. These contraptions
Shwenyaung US$13 US$26 - 3.30pm 21hrs Sule Paya to Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Station Bus Nos are called saiq-ka (as in side-car) and to ride
Taungoo US$7 US$19 - (see Mandalay) 9hrs 54, 59 and 96. one costs roughly from K250 to K500.
Thazi US$10 US$26 US$34 (see Mandalay) 12hrs Insein to Thein Byu Rd Near the YMCA, Three Seasons Nowadays trishaws are not permitted
Hotel and Cozy Guest House. Green pick-up No 48. on the main streets between midnight and
* Also stops at Bago en route. 10am. They’re most useful for side streets
and areas of town where traffic is light.
YA N G O N 126 YA N G O N • • R u n n i n g S u b h e a d www.lonelyplanet.com
126 www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • T h a n l y i n & K y a u k t a n 127
0 50 km
AROUND YANGON 0 30 mi
Around Yangon To Gwa (60km)

Lemyethna
Hinthada
Thonze
To Pyay
(200km)
To Taungoo (200km);
Mandalay (560km);
Inle Lake (570km) Motingyi
Myit
Reservoir
Okkan Payagyi
Zalun
nak
Ngathaingchaung
a Riv
Yakyi YANGON To Kyaiktiyo
Bay of Kyonpyaw Apyauk DIVISION (120km);
Bago
Aye arwady iver
er
Bengal Taikkyi Mawlamyine
Danubyu (200km)
Satthawadaw
y
Athok 1 Kamase
2 Intagwa
The area around Yangon is a microcosm of the country as a whole. It offers magnificent
Chaungtha Kyaungonn
R
temples, unspoiled beaches and little-visited villages clinging to the delta’s muddy shores. Beach Hmawby Hlegu Onhne
er
Nyaungdon
Riv
Chaungtha Taukkyan Thetkala
Bago, just a short drive from Yangon, is the home of some fabulous Buddhist sights, in- Pantanaw
A R O U N D YA N G O N
go
Kankyidaung Kayan
Ba
Ngwe Saung Einme
cluding many huge Buddha statues. Pathein, the fourth-largest city in Myanmar, is hardly Beach Pathein
YANGON
urban and receives few visitors, but is worth a visit before doing some good old sunbathing Ma-ubin e Cha
n el
Thanlyin
nt Dalah Thongwa
wa
and maybe a bit of snorkelling in Chaungtha Beach or Ngwe Saung. Wakema
T Twante
Kanbe
Myaungmya Pyawbwe Kyauktan
AYEYARWADY Ya
Travel around parts of the region can be slow and feel like a punch to the solar plexus. DIVISION
ng
on
Kala-ywa
Ingapu Riv
However, many parts can be seen on day trips or longer excursions from the capital. The Kyaiklat
Daedaye T
Kunyangon er
Mawlamyaing-gyun o Letkhokkon
eR
Pya pon River

vast delta is great for jumping on a ferry transporting local people between the capital Bogalay
ive
r Ale-ywa
Beach
Hpayapon
and their waterlogged villages; you can spend the day bopping around a town in a horse
r
ve
Labutta
Ri
cart and be back in your Yangon hotel in the evening if you so wish. But you’ll be better Kawhmu Gulf of
ein
th Mottama
Pa Kyonkadun
a dy River
off taking things a bit more leisurely; the region’s true allure is only revealed through the (Martaban)
r
ve
Ri
Mawdin M
smiles and perseverance of the local people you will meet.
la
Point ou
ma
th
Ayeyarw
Pya
of
Diamond th
eA
Island yeya
rw
ad
y
Getting There & Around the most fertile regions of the country, this
To the west, Pathein is the transport hub vast basin stretching from the Bay of Bengal
with buses and boats to/from Yangon and coast across to the Bago Range receives the
minibuses for getting to Chaungtha and rich nutrients deposited by the Ayeyarwady
Ngwe Saung, two popular beaches on the (Irrawaddy), Bago, Yangon (Hlaing) and
Bay of Bengal. A new bridge and ongoing Pathein (Ngawan) Rivers.
road work have made these two destinations This riverine network irrigates millions
more readily accessible from Pathein. of hectares of farmland, making the delta
Bago, easily reached from Yangon by bus essentially one of the ‘rice bowls’ of Myan-
HIGHLIGHTS or train, is a natural stop before heading mar. In addition, the estuarine environments
north via Taungoo or south to Kyaiktiyo along the coast provide much of the coun-
The white-sand beaches of Chaungtha
(Golden Rock) and beyond. try’s saltwater and freshwater fish harvest.
(p135) and Ngwe Saung (p138) offer a
Bago Getting to most other places mentioned Because of such natural abundance, the
vacation from your vacation
in this chapter will require some patience, delta is one of Myanmar’s most populated –
Several gargantuan Buddha statues particularly if you take public transport. and interesting – regions to explore.
Ngwe Chaungtha
(p140) take it easy in Bago Saung YANGON The southwest part of the region affords Several communities in the coastal areas
Pathein
Life along the delta is a water world Twante travellers the chance to ride the same river of this region felt the impact of the Decem-
revealed by hopping on a ferry to Pathein ferries that the locals use. ber 2004 tsunami and the majority of the
(p134) or Twante (p129) resulting deaths reported by the govern-
ment occurred here.
Shade yourself from the sun with a
parasol (p134) from Pathein
DELTA REGION THANLYIN & KYAUKTAN
A 115-year-old old boa constrictor at the Any trip in the delta area, which is criss- on'lY=' à ekY;k'tn'"
Snake Monastery (p144) eats 5kg of crossed by tributaries and canals and %065
chickens at a time in Bago mostly flat vistas, drives home the region’s Though the religious sites in Thanlyin and
vulnerability and reliance on water. One of Kyauktan across the river from Yangon aren’t
128 D E LTA R E G I O N • • T w a n t e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • A r o u n d T w a n t e 129
particularly impressive, trips to the villages launch ferries reserved for foreigners from canal, is just a few years younger than the fare is around K300 or so for a front seat
themselves reveal how far Yangon’s relative the riverbank (K1500 return). the one at Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya. In in a jeep; or about K500 for a front seat in a
cosmopolitanism and urbanity extends – a chicken-wire enclosure to one side is a pick-up. Come prepared for a crush. Mini-
that is, not very far. Although neither place Sleeping & Eating casual display of ancient Twante pottery, buses (K150) round out the possibilities.
is especially charming, they do make for an About the only accommodation option, as plus religious and royal regalia from early Taxis between Dalah and Twante cost
easy morning or afternoon escape from the none of the several guesthouses in Thanlyin Mon and Bamar kingdoms. One corner of around K1500 one way per person. Most,
hustle and bustle of the capital. proper are licensed to accept foreigners, is the compound commemorates King Bayin- though, are booked by entire families. For
During the late 16th and early 17th cen- the White House Restaurant & Guest House (dishes naung’s (also spelt Bayint Nyaung) defeat of comfort and speed it’s worth asking to
turies, Thanlyin was the base for the the about K700), a friendly place about 100m off the a local rebellion. share one.
notorious Portuguese adventurer Philip De main road. The guesthouse serves good Chi- Along the western side of the zedi stand The seemingly slower but more scenic
Brito. Officially a trade representative for nese fare in a small air-conditioned café. some old bronze Buddhas. Continuing trip along the Yangon River and the Twante
the Rakhaing, he actually ran his own little Near the ferry landing are several food counter clockwise, near the southern en- Canal takes two hours – even though it’s
kingdom from Thanlyin, siding with the vendors. trance you’ll come to a 100-year-old sitting only 24km from landing to landing. Al-
Mon (when it suited him) in their struggle bronze Buddha in Mandalay style. Instead though there are several boats that pass
against the Bamar. In 1599 his private army Getting There & Away of focusing on the floor, the Buddha’s eyes by Twante on their way across the west-
sacked Bago, but in 1613 the Bamar be- The most convenient way to visit both stare straight ahead. ern delta, the most frequent departures are
sieged Thanlyin and De Brito received the Thanlyin and Kyauktan on the other side From the ferry dock to Shwesandaw Paya, aboard Hpayapon-bound craft (ordinary/1st
punishment reserved for those who defiled of the Bago River is to hire a taxi in Yangon the cost is K250. A horse cart from Shwe- class US$1/3). These leave from the Hledan
Buddhist shrines – death by impalement. It (US$10 to US$15 for a half day). By taxi, it sandaw back to the dock is about K200. Rd and Kaingdan St jetties in Yangon at 7am
took him two days to die, due, it is said, to takes about 20 minutes to get to Thanlyin. and 1pm daily; the latest return trip leaves
his failure to take the recommended posture However, if you’re passionate about My- OH-BO POTTERY SHEDS Twante at 4pm.
where the stake would have penetrated vital anmar’s uncomfortable local transport or aiu"fiuaiu"lup'=n'" When you add up the waiting times for
organs. Thanlyin continued as a major port are counting kyat, very slow minibuses to Pottery is a major cottage industry in Twan- the cross-river ferry/jeep departure versus
and trading centre until it was destroyed Thanlyin (K200, one hour, 25km) leave fre- te, which supplies much of the delta region the canal ferry, both modes of transport end
by Bamar king Alaungpaya in 1756, after quently throughout the day from a spot at with well-designed, utilitarian containers up taking about the same amount of time
which Yangon took over this role. the corner of Bogyoke Aung San and Lower of varying shapes and sizes. The pots are from start to finish. A good way to vary the
Pazundaung Rds. It costs an extra K100 if made in huge thatched-roof sheds in the trip would be to do the more frequent ferry-
Sights you continue by minibus from Thanlyin to Oh-Bo district south of the canal, about 15 jeep combo out to Twante, then catch one
Although there is no longer any of this an- Kyauktan and the Yele Paya. minutes’ walk from the dock. of the canal ferries back to Yangon around
cient city to be seen, Thanlyin is a relaxing In Thanlyin, horse carts are a good way Twante pots can be purchased directly sunset when the waterways are the most
place, with shaded streets and a busy mar- to get around. from the sheds or, perhaps more conveni- picturesque.
ket to stroll through. A short bus ride out of ently, at the central market near the Twante Trishaws and horse carts are great ways
town will take you to the large, golden Kyaik- TWANTE ferry landing. However, transporting these of getting around town.
khauk Paya, rising on a hillock to the north tâ®et" mostly large and heavy objects to one’s
of the road. It’s said to contain two Buddha If your time in the delta area is limited, home potentially thousands of miles away AROUND TWANTE
hairs delivered to the site by the great sage Twante, a small town noted for its pottery, is an iffy proposition. Other interesting delta towns are Labutta
himself. Most likely the first stupa on this cotton-weaving and an old Mon paya com- Trishaws from the dock to the pottery and Hpayapon, both of which can be reached
hillock was erected by the Mon 600 to 800 plex, is a worthwhile day trip. There’s a sheds cost K200 per person. by long-distance ferry from Yangon. Find-
years ago. If it’s too hot to climb the stairs, large market in the centre of town – really ing accommodation is not a certainty in
you can always take the lift for K5. You only a wide, dusty road lined with ram- Getting There & Away & Around these places, so both are destinations for
can hire a horse cart to the paya for about shackle wooden shops. The most accessible way to get to Twante the adventurous.
K500 each way. The journey to Twante is enjoyable, from Yangon is via a short cross-river ferry Boats for Hpayapon leave from the Hle-
Much more interesting if only because it whether you go by hired jeep or ferry. The and public jeep or pick-up ride. Pedes- dan Rd and Kaingdan St jetties in Yangon at
includes a short boat ride is Yele Paya (Midriver drive passes through leafy villages, where trian ferries from Pansodan St jetty (near 7am and 1pm daily and travel via Twante.
Paya; admission US$1) at Kyauktan, 12km south- kids spill out from thatched huts to play. the foot of Pansodan St and opposite the
east of Thanlyin, where the road terminates The ferry provides a glimpse of life on and Strand Hotel) take passengers across the LETKHOKKON BEACH
at a swiftly moving, wide river. The paya along the famous Twante Canal, which was Yangon River to Dalah (US$1, 20 minutes). lk'xup'kun'"
(shrine) is appropriately named since the dug during the colonial era as a short cut In Dalah, catch one of the dark green jeeps Travelling to Letkhokkon, about four hours
complex is perched on a tiny island in the across the Ayeyarwady Delta. or pick-ups that leave for Twante every 45 by taxi or jeep from Dalah, is no easy matter
middle of the river. In the temple there are minutes or so throughout the day. Both and in the end not much quicker than visit-
paintings of other famous paya both in Sights leave only when completely full, so you ing the more beautiful beaches at Chaungtha
Myanmar and further afield. Pilgrims feed SHWESANDAW PAYA can either secure a comfortable front seat and Ngwe Saung. Nevertheless, it is the clos-
crumbs to the weirdly domesticated fish eráz®et;'.ur;" early in the loading process or you can hop est beach to the capital.
splashing about at the temple complex’s Standing at 76m tall, this Mon-built zedi in the back of a vehicle that looks ready to Located in Kunyangon town, near the
edge. To reach the islet, catch one of the (stupa), a kilometre or two south of the leave. The ride takes 30 to 45 minutes and mouth of the Bago River, Letkhokkon is
130 D E LTA R E G I O N • • Pa t h e i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • Pa t h e i n 131
a delta beach facing the Gulf of Mottama It’s not easy getting to Letkhokkon by PATHEIN 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
(Martaban), with powder beige sand and public transport. First you must cross to
a very wide tidal bore that tends towards Dalah via the Pansodan St jetty pedestrian A B C D
To Ngwe Saung Beach (46km);
Chaungtha Beach (57km)
mudflats at its lowest ebb. Copious coconut ferry (US$1, 20 minutes); departures are
INFORMATION Monastery.................................10 A4
palms along the beach help make up for every 20 minutes, starting at 5am and stop- Hospital........................................1 B3 Mosque.....................................11 A4
the less-than-crystalline waters. The lack of ping at 8pm. Ask around on the other side 1 Police Station...............................2 A4 Night Market..............................12 B3
Post Office...................................3 B3 Pwo Karen Church.....................13 B2
clarity is part of the estuarial milieu here and in the jammed lot next to the ferry termi- St Peter's Cathedral....................14 B4
doesn’t mean the water isn’t clean. At low nal in Dalah to see if anyone’s going to SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
City Hall.......................................4 B3
School........................................15
School........................................16
C2
C2
tide the local kids like to stage mud fights. Letkhokkon; usually only a couple of vehi- Clock Tower.................................5 B3 Settayaw Paya...........................17 D1 33 17
An excursion to Letkhokkon is more cles a day do this route direct. Customs House............................6
Division Office.............................7
B3
C2
Shwenokhtaw Paya....................18
Shwezigon Paya.........................19
B3
B2
than just a beach trip; it offers a glimpse of Once in Letkhokkon it’s usually not Hindu Temple..............................8 B4 Twenty-Eight
Monastery...................................9 A4 Paya.......................................20 C2
relaxed delta life. Along the way, the road difficult to find a vehicle heading back to To Bus
passes by rice paddies, betel-nut gardens Dalah. 13
Terminal (800m);
Yangon (180km)
and several Kayin (or Karen) villages. St
St
ola
Adjacent to the main beach area, the vil- PATHEIN 2 19 15
Ba
ndo
one
lage of Letkhokkon itself is a fairly typical puoim
yag
20
seaside town that thrives on coconuts and %042 / pop 300,000
da
35
Ya
fishing. Though the town itself isn’t too in- For the country’s fourth-largest city Pathein 16
St
ra
nd
7
teresting, there’s a long beach nearby called seems compact and small. It receives few
la Rd
Rd
Anauntphettokan (Westward-Moving Beach; visitors so you’re likely to draw lots of smiles 25
Mahab
andoo
SLEEPING
5
named for its heavy sand drift). The beach and curious stares. Most travellers only stop La Pyat Wun Hotel.....................21 B3
Pa
Paradise Guest House.................22 B4
can be approached by boat from Ingapu or off on their way to the beaches on the west
t
he
Mingyi Rd
3 Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn...................23 B3
in
other spots along the coastline. You can coast, yet the workshops that produce col-
Ri
Taan Taan Ta Guest House &
Merchant St
1 Creek
ve
12
3 Restaurant..............................24 B3
r
rent a launch for visiting these areas from ourful, hand-painted parasols, along with
6
the Letkhokkon Beach Hotel. The asking the shady, tree-lined village lanes to the 18 26 29 EATING
Golden Land Restaurant.............25 B3
price is K3000 per hour, but this is negoti- northeast of the market, are worth a stroll, 4
34 30 Ka Ka Gyi Myanmar Restaurant..26 B3
28
able for multihour hire. as is the bustling riverside road. Shwezedi Rd 24 23 Me Me Lay Teashop...................27 B3
Central Market 21 Mya Nan Dar Restaurant.........(see 30)
As you approach Letkhokkon from the A boat trip between Pathein and Yangon 27
Nga Wun Irra Restaurant............28 B3
Zegyaung St
north, there’s a two-lane, palm-flanked av- along the river where large boats are laid 22
Shwe Kaung Restaurant.............29 B3
Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant...........30 B3
enue leading off to the right where you’ll up on the mud flats like dinosaurs taking 9 Myenu Rd Zee Bae Inn................................31 B4
Bwetgyi St
see the Letkhokkon Beach Hotel (booking office in their last gasp of air, is a rare window on Ohnmar SHOPPING
Rd
2 dandi St 31
Yangon%01-224 346; 68 11th St, Lanmadaw Township, the pattern and pace of the everyday lives Parasol Workshops.....................32 B4
n
io
32 14
at
Yangon; s/d US$38/45; a), a tidy row of painted of Burmese in the delta region. 4 Kala Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop....33 D1
St
11 10 dan
St
wooden beach bungalows. The hotel has Situated on the eastern bank of the TRANSPORT
Bus Tickets.................................34 B3
spacious rooms with mosquito nets and Pathein River (also known as the Ngawan 8 To Mahabodhi Mingala
Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw (500m);
Train
Station Buses to Chaungtha &
private bathrooms. The power supply is un- River) in the Ayeyarwady Delta, about Leikyunyuang Paya (2km) Ngwesaung............................35 B2
reliable, though. The hotel restaurant serves 120km west of Yangon, Pathein is the most
good seafood. important delta port outside the capital,
despite its distance from the sea. It is sur- for Muslim – pathi – due to the heavy pres- Sights & Activities
Getting There & Away rounded by a major rice-growing area that ence of Arab and Indian Muslim traders If you want to check out Pathein’s parasol
Vehicle ferries (passengers US$5, 15 mi- produces the best rice available in Myan- here centuries ago. The colonial Brits – or workshops, see p134.
nutes) cross the Yangon River to Dalah mar, including a high-quality variety called more likely their imported Indian civil ser- The following sights don’t charge an ad-
from Sin Oh Dan St jetty between 18th and pawsanmwe t’ǎmìn (fragrant rice). The vants – corrupted the name to Bassein. mission fee.
19th Sts in Yangon at 9am, 1pm and 5pm. growth of the delta trade, particularly rice Today, Pathein’s population includes large
The road between Dalah and Letkhokkon is exports, has contributed to a general air of contingents of Kayin (Karen) and Rakha- SHWEMOKHTAW PAYA
in very poor condition in places. Count on prosperity in the city. ing. Although once part of a Mon kingdom, erámueq;.ur;"
close to four hours to complete the journey Pathein is now home to only a few Mon. In the centre of Pathein, near the river-
from Dalah without stops; more by public History During the ‘70s and ‘80s, the Kayin villages front, looms the golden, bell-shaped stupa
transport. The town is of some historic interest and surrounding Pathein generated insurgent ac- at Shwemokhtaw Paya. One legend says
Expect to pay about K5000 each way to was the scene for major clashes during the tivity that has since generally calmed. it was originally built by India’s Buddhist
hire a car or jeep from Dalah to make the struggle for supremacy between the Mon king Asoka in 305 BC as a small stupa called
trip. Of course you could always hire a car and the Bamar. Later it became an impor- Information Shwe Arna. Standing 2.3m tall, this original
and driver in Yangon; however, some driv- tant trade relay point for goods moving be- Despite the city being one of Myanmar’s larg- stupa supposedly enshrined Buddha relics
ers refuse to do the trip because the road is tween India and Southeast Asia. The city’s est, there are no banks here offering foreign and a 6in (15cm) gold bar. Another legend
so hard on their vehicles. name may derive from the Burmese word exchange and there are no Internet services. says a Muslim princess named Onmadandi
132 D E LTA R E G I O N • • Pa t h e i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • Pa t h e i n 133
requested each of her three Buddhist lovers SETTAYAW PAYA State Law & Order Restoration Council La Pyat Wun Hotel (%24669; 30 Min Gyi Rd; s/d
to build a stupa in her honour. One of the ck'et;'r;.ur;" (Slorc), now the State Peace and Develop- US$15/25; a) This newcomer to Pathein is a
lovers erected Shwemokhtaw, the others the Of the several lesser-known ones in Pathein, ment Council (SPDC), using forced labour squeaky clean all-white multistorey build-
less distinguished Tazaung and Thayaung- perhaps the most charming is this paya in the early 1990s to create a facsimile of ing. Rooms have private bathroom, hot-
gyaung paya. dedicated to a mythical Buddha footprint Ananda Paya in Bagan. Since the renova- water shower and TV.
Whichever story you choose to believe, left by the Enlightened One during his leg- tion few people outside the government Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn (%22985; 32 Shwezedi Rd; s/d
Bagan’s King Alaungsithu is thought to endary perambulations through mainland worship here. US$8/10; a) A step down from the others, the
have erected an 11m stupa called Htupayon Southeast Asia. A kilometre or so northeast of Leikyuny- Sein Pyae Hlyan is more austere, though the
over this site in AD 1115. Then, in 1263, The paya compound wraps over a couple naung Paya is Leimyetna Paya, which features unadorned concrete rooms do have TVs
King Samodagossa took power, raised the of green hillocks that are dotted with well- a large, but particularly ugly, sitting Bud- and air-con.
stupa to 40m and changed the name to constructed tazaung (shrine buildings) – dha. Even aesthetically worse is the gaudily Those hoping to avoid government-
Shwemokhtaw Paya, which means Stupa of altogether a nice setting and a change from painted sitting Buddha at Shwezigon Paya, at owned properties should steer clear of the
the Half-Foot Gold Bar. the flat paya compounds near the river. The the northern end of town. Pathein Hotel, a two-storey building on
The stupa’s main shape has remained the footprint symbol itself is the usual oblong, spacious grounds near the bus station.
same since Samodagossa’s reign, although 1m-long impression and not very interest- MARKETS
the changing of the decorative hti (um- ing. Very visible in the compound is a gar- At the night market (Strand Rd) that is set up Eating
brellalike decorated top) has increased the ishly painted 11m standing Buddha. each evening in front of Customs House, Eating out in Pathein is limited to a few un-
height to its present 46.6m. The current teenagers cruise, flirt and hang out while spectacular restaurants that do basic Bamar
hti consists of a topmost layer made from OTHER RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS vendors purvey food, clothing and tools and and Chinese.
6.3kg of solid gold, a middle tier of pure One of the standard sights in town is the just about every other requisite for daily life Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant (24/25 Shwezedi Rd;
silver and a bottom tier of bronze; all three so-called Twenty-Eight Paya, a rectangular at low prices. Just south of Shwemokhtaw sweet & sour chicken K1300) Near Merchant St, this
tiers are gilded and reportedly embedded shrine building containing 28 sitting and Paya is the central market, and just south of restaurant does Bamar and Chinese cuisine
with a total of 829 diamond fragments, 843 28 standing Buddha images – none of them that is a newer market, with all manner of with good curries and soups.
rubies and 1588 semiprecious stones. are particularly distinguished except that goods. Both of these markets are closed on Ka Ka Gyi Myanmar Restaurant (68 Mingalar St;
The southern shrine of the compound the latter appear in the open-robe style Sunday. meals K1000) Across from Shwemokhtaw Paya,
houses the Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi sitting rather than the closed-robe pose typical of this place offers fish, vegetable and meat
Buddha image, which supposedly floated Mandalay standing images. At one end of Festivals & Events curries.
to the delta coast on a raft sent from Sri the hall stands a group of crude sculptures The people of Pathein celebrate Vesakha (a Golden Land Restaurant (Merchant St; mains around
Lanka during ancient times. According to depicting a scene from the Buddha’s life. celebration of the Buddha’s birth, enlight- K2000;huntil 10pm) Just north of the clock
legend, an unknown Sinhalese sculptor It’s a short walk from Pathein’s main um- enment and passing away) with a huge paya tower, this restaurant has a nice, quiet,
fashioned four different Buddha images brella workshops. You may have to ask the pwe (pagoda festival) during the full moon front-yard, open-air eating area. The menu
using pieces from the original Bodhi Tree caretaker to unlock the building. of Kason (April/May). The festival is held is a wide-ranging mixture of Chinese and
mixed with a cement composite. He then More interesting from an artistic per- at the Shwemokhtaw Paya. Bamar dishes, including some seafood. It’s
placed the images on four wooden rafts and spective is Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw (Tagaung pricey by Pathein standards.
set the rafts adrift on the ocean. One landed Paya), centred around a graceful stupa that Sleeping Zee Bae Inn (Merchant St; dishes K1000;huntil
in Dawei (Tavoy), and is now housed at sweeps inward from a wide, whitewashed Most of the hotels’ electricity supplies are at 10pm;a) Zee Bae is among the more well-
the Shinmokhti Paya; another landed at base to a gleaming silver superstructure. the mercy of the citywide rationing schedule, known and longest-running Chinese places.
Kyaikkami (Amherst), and is now at Yele Look for the small squirrel sculpture ex- which means power generally is available It is a saloon-style, popular little place that
Paya; the third landed at Kyaiktiyo and is tending from the western side of the upper from early evening to early morning. has been serving large bowls of noodles and
now at Kyaikpawlaw; and the fourth landed stupa and representing a previous life of the Taan Taan Ta Guest House & Restaurant other Chinese dishes since the 1950s. The
near Phondawpyi, a fishing village about Buddha as a squirrel. One of the pavilions (%22290; 7 Merchant St; s US$5-7, d US$6-10; a) downstairs area opens onto the street, while
97km south of Pathein. In 1445 the Mon at the base of the stupa contains a very large At five storeys, this centrally located hotel upstairs there’s an air-con dining room.
queen Shinsawpu purportedly had the sitting Buddha image. Local legend says the is one of Pathein’s tallest. The Taan Taan Nga Wun Irra Restaurant (cnr Shwezedi & Strand
latter image brought up to Pathein, then stupa is the same age as Shwemokhtaw, but offers simple, brightly painted and clean Rds; mains from K300; huntil 9pm) It is a pleasant
known as Kuthima. like other famous stupas in Myanmar, the rooms with private bathroom. Larger and little dinner spot next to the night market
A marble standing Buddha positioned in truth is buried beneath several layers of royal more expensive rooms with more sunlight down by the water. This simple place offers
a niche in the fence running along the west- renovations. The latest refurbishing was car- are on the top floor. friendly service but, strangely enough, only
ern side of the stupa marks a spot where ried out in 1979. Tagaung Paya is about 3km Paradise Guest House (%25055; 14 Zay Chaung chicken, pork and vegetable dishes – no
Mon warriors once prayed before going south of Kaladan St, past the railway line. Rd; r US$10; a) Another Pathein high rise, seafood.
off to battle. In the northwestern corner West of Tagaung Paya, a little way to- the Paradise is alongside the canal a block Other recommendations:
of the compound is a shrine dedicated to wards the river, stands Mahabodhi Mingala from the market. Rooms here are slightly Shwe Kaung Restaurant (dishes K1000) On the same
Shin Upagot, the Bodhisattva who floats on Zedi, patterned after the world-famous Ma- more modern than those at the Taan Taan, block as the Ka Ka Gyi.
the ocean and appears to those in trouble. habodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India. Leikyuny- ie they have TVs, though the low ceilings in Mya Nan Dar Restaurant (dishes K1000) This place
Turtles swim in the water surrounding the naung Paya, a couple of kilometres directly some make it feel cramped. For late nights is equally as good as the Shwe Kaung and serves tasty
small pavilion. south of Mahabodhi, was renovated by the a karaoke lounge is attached. Bamar dishes.
134 D E LTA R E G I O N • • Pa t h e i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • A r o u n d Pa t h e i n 135
Shopping Pathein. Ordinary class costs US$7, and ride–full life here; because of sacks of rice matter what the time of year, beach activ-
Most of the ‘umbrellas’ made in Pathein puts you on the open deck (with an easy and vegetables piled on the floor there was ity is at its height in the afternoon when
are actually parasols; ie they aren’t water- chair if you get in early). For US$42 you can no room for his legs to go except up to his children take their first horse ride, freelance
proof, but are used to counter the hot delta get an air-conditioned cabin with private chin for the entire 2½ hours. photographers comb the beach on the look-
sun. There are a few workshops scattered bathroom. These express boats leave Yan- Shwe Min Than buses take around 1½ out for their next shoot, fully clothed fami-
throughout the northern part of the city, gon’s Lan Thit jetty daily at 5pm, arriving hours to travel the 46km from Pathein to lies wade into the water en masse, teenage
particularly in the vicinity of Twenty-Eight the next morning in Pathein at 10am. For- Ngwe Saung (K2500); departures are at 7am, girls stroll hand in hand, and elaborate pic-
Paya, off Mahabandoola Rd. The parasols eigners must buy tickets from the deputy 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm from Yadayagone nics are staged only to be broken up by the
come in a variety of colours; some are division manager’s office next to Building St as well. path of a wayward football from one of the
brightly painted with flowers, birds and 63 on Lan Thit jetty. many impromptu games.
other nature motifs. One type that can be A more luxurious option worth every TAXI As Western beaches go, the sand and
used in the rain is the saffron-coloured kyat is a river cruise aboard the Delta Queen Share taxis for up to four people can be water aren’t as pristine as nearby Ngwe
monks’ umbrella, which is waterproofed (in Yangon% 01-246 752; www.myanmar-rivercruises arranged from your hotel in Pathein for Saung or Ngapali. At low tide the very wide
by applying various coats of tree resin; a .com; 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Yangon; per person US$170) Chaungtha (K30,000), Ngapali (K100,000), beach has a touch of the ‘muddy delta’ look –
single umbrella may take five days to com- between Pathein and Yangon (20 hours). Ngwe Saung (K30,000) and also Yangon though there is a gorgeous long, white-sand
plete, including the drying process. Parasols All cabins are done in teak and there are (K40,000). beach only a 15-minute walk north of town,
and umbrellas can be ordered in any size two special ‘family’ rooms with large pic- where you’re likely to have the entire ex-
directly from the workshops. The parasols ture windows on three sides facing directly AROUND PATHEIN panse to yourself save for the rare local or
are reasonably priced, even cheap, though out the front of the boat. Both the dining Horseshoe-shaped Inye Lake, 70km northeast other foreigners scouting for privacy and a
Burmese seem to prefer foreign-made mod- area and lounge/bar area are tastefully done of the city near the village of Kyonpyaw, is a little shade. The village of Chaungtha itself
ern umbrellas. Several shops in Pathein sell but the real highlight is the superb five- favourite weekend picnic spot. Local fisher- is a few blocks of guesthouses, restaurants
cheaply made smaller parasols with bright, course dinner and ‘concert’ that the nine men sell fresh fish from the lake. and souvenir shops selling T-shirts. There
fluffy pompoms, not good for either deco- staff members put on for guests after dinner. If you follow the Pathein River south is a post office.
ration or protection from the elements. During high season the Delta Queen gener- till it empties into the Andaman Sea you’ll Most Chaungtha residents fish, or farm
Workshops welcome visitors who want ally makes one round trip a week. reach Mawdin Point (Mawdinsoun), the site coconuts for a living; a couple of families
to observe this craft. of a famous festival during the lunar month also make furniture using rattan collected
Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop (%25127; frangi BUS of Tabodwe (February/March). On the sea in nearby jungles. Many villagers speak the
[email protected]; 653 Tawya Kyaung Rd; h8am- Buses to Pathein are available from Yangon’s side of the cape, at its point, is a sandy beach Rakhaing dialect.
5pm) This family-run workshop with high- Hlaing Thar Yar bus station, a 45-minute to and the revered stupa of Mawdin Paya.
quality work is just around the corner from one-hour taxi ride (K3000) west of the city During the Mawdin Point festival there Sights & Activities
the Settawyar Pagoda. If you decide to pur- on the other side of the Yangon (Hlaing) are special boats running from Pathein The village market is most active from 6am
chase these beautiful handiworks in bulk – River. From here, there are several depar- daily. Other times, boats go only once a to 9am. East of the main village area is a
you won’t find the same quality elsewhere, tures from 5am to 1pm to Pathein (three to week or so, leaving the main Pathein jetty mangrove swamp and a canal beach with
even in Yangon – they can be securely and four hours, 181km). The cost – depending around 6am and arriving at 2pm. Be aware a wooden jetty. On the canal side of the
conveniently packaged. on the standard of bus – can range from that there’s no lodging licensed for foreign- peninsula are rickety stilted structures used
K1000 to K3000. Most are comfortable and ers at Mawdin, so this is strictly a trip for by the villagers for drying fish.
Getting There & Away have TV, reclining cushioned seats and air risk-takers. During the festival more guest-
AIR conditioning, though they probably won’t houses are open, which makes it the best BOATING TRIPS
Pathein has an airstrip out at the north- turn it on. You can buy same-day tickets for time of year to attempt a trip. Offshore lies a modest coral reef with de-
eastern edge of the city, but at the time of any of the departures or most hotels can ar- There are some elephant camps in the area, cent snorkelling except during the rainy sea-
writing it didn’t field any regularly sched- range bookings for you. Be prepared to ask providing visitors with an opportunity to son, when water clarity is poor. Snorkelling
uled flights. However, newcomer Bagan Air around, though there are usually enough see these pachyderms go about their daily trips for up to six people cost K30,000 and
(BA) was planning to start daily flights in ticket touts around to help you out and take work routine. The best places to organise a can be booked through hotels. Several ho-
the high season between Pathein and Yan- their small commission. visit to one are at the hotels in Ngwe Saung tels can also rent the gear for K1000; there
gon (US$40, 25 minutes) and Heho (US$88, Generally uncomfortable Thi Ha and or Chaungtha. are a few small reefs in the waters to the
one hour). There were also plans to link Shwe Min Than minibuses ply the route north.
up with ground transport to Ngwe Saung from Pathein to Chaungtha Beach (K2500, CHAUNGTHA BEACH Whitesand Island can be explored in a day
Beach in order to compete with Ngapali as 2½ hours, 58km); departures are 7am, 11am exY;='"s;km'"e¨x trip from Chaungtha Beach. A boat (K3000
an easily accessible beach destination for and 1pm from Pathein’s bus station on Yada- %042 one way, one hour) leaves for the island at
high-end travellers. yagone St. Ask your guesthouse if it’s pos- A trip to Chaungtha Beach, 40km west of 8am daily, returning at 5pm. There’s good
sible to book a seat on the more comfortable Pathein on the Bay of Bengal, is a chance to swimming and snorkelling around the is-
BOAT Yangon–Chaungtha buses (see p138). You’ll experience what the Myanmar middle class land, as well as a stall selling cold drinks
Inland Water Transport (IWT; Map p98; in Yangon%01- be asked to pay the full fare but it’s worth does on vacation. The beach gets especially and snacks, but there’s only three trees for
284 055; Lan Thit jetty, Yangon) operates Chinese it. This author experienced one of the most crowded on holiday weekends when local shade. For more information, ask at any
triple-decker ferries between Yangon and miserable bus rides of his miserable bus tourists are ferried in by the busload. No of the hotels or guesthouses in Chaungtha,
136 D E LTA R E G I O N • • C h a u n g t h a B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • C h a u n g t h a B e a c h 137
INFORMATION
Post Office...............................................................................1 B4
Several budget places set back from the distinguish itself from its rivals, with simi-
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
beach are worth a look. larly uninspiring bungalow rooms. More
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Kyauk Pahto............................................................................2 A3 Win Villa (s/d US$3/6) The clean but basic expensive ones have air-con. The water-
A B Market.....................................................................................3 B3 rooms in this attractive teak home are good front restaurant serves some Thai dishes
To Magyi Village Pyilon Chanthar Zedi................................................................4 B4
(11.5km) Ywama Monastery...................................................................5 B4 value. The Win has a balcony on the 2nd and is a perfect place to catch a sunset.
1 floor, but there is no hot water. Breakfast Lai Lai Chaungtha Beach Hotel (%22587; lailai
SLEEPING
To Pathein A Yar Oo Resort Hotel.............................................................6 B2 is included. [email protected]; s/d US$18/25; a) One of
(40km);
Yangon Ambo Resort Hotel..................................................................7
Chaungtha Oo Beach Hotel.....................................................8
B2
A1
Other options include Mariner’s Lodge (s/d the oldest hotels in Chaungtha, this place is
(220km)
8 Discovery Inn...........................................................................9 A4 US$5/10), with no-frills, hotel-style rooms; now a little frayed around the edges. Stand-
19
Golden Beach Hotel...............................................................10
Grand Hotel Chaungtha Beach...............................................11
B2
B2
and the strange large, blue A-frame Happy ard rooms have a fan and private bathroom.
Happy World.........................................................................12 B2 World (s/d US$5/10), with basic clean rooms but Superior rooms come with air-con, fridge
Hotel Max Chaungtha Beach.................................................13 A4
7
15 Lai Lai Chaungtha Beach Hotel..............................................14 A3
no hot water. and TV.
Lin Thit Sar Hotel...................................................................15 B2 Several other budget-level guesthouses Other recommendations:
6 16 Mariner’s Lodge.....................................................................16 B2
11 Mayko Guest House..............................................................17 A4
are clustered around the village. Among A Yar Oo Resort Hotel (%24880; s US$7-15, d US$14-
2 Chaungtha See Seim Hotel......................................................................18 A3 the cleanest and friendliest are Discovery Inn 20; a) Rooms here are not in the best condition. Higher
Bay Shwe Hin Tha Hotel...............................................................19 A2
20 Thiri Chaungtha Beach Hotel.................................................20 B2 (s/d US$3/6) and Mayko Guest House (s/d US$5/10). priced rooms have air-con.
12 Win Guest House...................................................................21 B3 Rooms at both come with a fan and private See Seim Hotel (%22909; r US$22) A sprawling place
10 Zaw Mart
Store EATING bathroom and have Western-style toilets. right on the beach with clean, bungalow-style rooms with
Chaungtha Seafood Restaurant.............................................22 B4 The Discovery Inn has four thatched bam- fan and private bathroom. The rooms are a little gloomy.
Pearl Restaurant.....................................................................23 B4
William Restaurant.................................................................24 B4 boo bungalows. The hotel’s restaurant is quite good.
18
William Restaurant.................................................................25 B3 Thiri Chaungtha Beach Resort Hotel (in Yangon
SHOPPING MIDRANGE %01-578 649; s/d US$20/25; a) Rambling place
Main Rd
Souvenir Vendors...................................................................26 B4 Chaungtha Oo Beach Hotel (%22888, in Yangon popular with Myanmar people.
3
21 TRANSPORT %01-254 708; r US$25-35; a) Popular with UN
Bus Station.............................................................................27 B3
25
and foreign-embassy staff, this hotel at the TOP END
2 quiet northernmost end of the beach has Hotel Max Chaungtha Beach (%24966; www.hotel
3
accommodation. Few people from the in- large, bright blue-and-green chalets, each maxchaungthabeach.com; r US$70-100; ais )
Lan Madaw
14
27
1
terior visit during the southwest monsoon with delightful private porches. The more This luxury resort appears somewhat out of
26 24
13 Hospital season, and traditionally all but a few hotels expensive rooms have hot water, and the place next to its more modest neighbours.
St
22 Bogyoke St
close down from 15 May to 15 September; complimentary breakfast is served in a The Max opened in 2003 directly across
Sayonphat
23
4 5 those that remain open discount room rates. pleasant all-wood wraparound porch. from the village. There’s a long driveway
Because of a hotel building boom in recent Grand Hotel Chaungtha Beach Resort (%23001; to the portico entrance that reveals large
4 Ywathit St
17 years there’s not much room left for further s US$18-25, d US$20-30; a) It has nice, clean, red-roofed villas and landscaped grounds.
9
development. At the time of research there well-kept rooms, modern bathrooms with Facilities include tennis courts, minigolf,
Hpokkala
Kyun To Canal Beach was talk of a new telephone system being bathtubs, private porches, all-white bunga- billiards, massage parlour and spa. There’s
To Ferry Jetty
(500m) installed in Chaungtha, so all the numbers lows, attractive grounds and a restaurant on an excellent restaurant with nightly buffet
listed may change in the near future. the beach. The more expensive rooms have dinners served outside.
seaside views.
or contact U Tin Ohn (%24880), the island’s BUDGET Golden Beach Hotel (%24126; r US$10-25; as) Eating
Chaungtha-based manager. Shwe Hin Tha Hotel (%24098, in Yangon %01-650 The big, bright beachside bungalows come Most hotels and guesthouses also have small
Several hotels, including the Shwe Hin 588; s US$5-18, d US$10-25; a) The only beach- with individual back and front porches, and restaurants; the Shwe Hin Tha’s is particu-
Tha (ask for Nay Min), can arrange fishing front hotel with budget prices, this is a pop- comfortable, modern bathrooms. A pool is larly pleasant. William Restaurant (dishes K1000),
trips and provide all the necessary equip- ular backpacker choice. There are a number set in the middle of the attractive grounds. which does Bamar and Chinese cuisine –
ment for K20,000 to K30,000. of friendly and eager English-speaking staff Cheaper rooms with fans are across the street has two locations, one on the main road and
Ferry services to nearby villages along the members, and more importantly it’s located in the new annexe. Some are US$6 during the other in the village. The main street of
canal are still available from the canal jetty. on the quiet end of the beach. The cheap- the low season. There's a good Chinese the village is lined with seafood restaurants.
est rooms are small blue wooden bunga- restaurant attached. Most offer mains of good freshly caught
OTHER ACTIVITIES lows with private porches looking out onto Linn Thit Sar Hotel (%22802; s US$10-20, d US$15- seafood – lobster, clams, scallops, prawns,
You can rent canoes for about K700 a half- the hotel courtyard. Larger, more expen- 30; a) It’s unfortunate there’s not more pri- and fish – for around K800 to K2000: Pearl
day, or bicycles for about K300 per hour or sive rooms have ocean views. There is a vacy on this part of the beach because the Restaurant and Chaungtha Sea Food Res-
K500 a day, at hotels and guesthouses. small library with foreign-language books. rooms at the Linn Thit Sar are clean and taurant are especially recommended.
Kyaw Kgi (George) is a knowledgeable and attractive. The more expensive rooms have There are also a few teashops along this
Sleeping friendly guide ([email protected]) air-con. strip, one of which opens early in the morn-
Of all the beach destinations in Myan- or at the hotel. Shwe Hin Tha is the first Ambo Resort Hotel (% 22903; s US$18-20, d ing and serves decent hsi t’ǎmìn (turmeric-
mar, Chaungtha offers the most affordable hotel you pass coming from Pathein. US$20-25; a) The Ambo doesn’t especially coloured sticky rice topped with sesame
138 D E LTA R E G I O N • • N g w e S a u n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N • • N g w e S a u n g 139
seeds and shredded coconut) and other without first having to go through Yangon the Golden Sea’s small wooden bungalows including a few posh bungalow suites. All
Bamar tea snacks. and Pyay. It’s apparently a demanding three- are simply furnished. A basic breakfast is the rooms are classy and cosy, a mix of teak,
day journey on very local minibuses. included. bamboo and modern amenities. Palm trees
Getting There & Away & Around Yamonnar Oo Resort (in Yangon %01-726 413; s/d tower over the manicured grounds and
BICYCLE TAXI US$25/35) Not really a resort, the Yamonnar there’s a large marble reception area.
Some hotels rent bicycles for K300 per hour. Share taxis for up to four people to Pathein Oo has a few green wooden bungalows. The
(K30,000) and Yangon (K70,000) can be ar- rooms are unadorned but clean. Eating
BOAT ranged with your hotel’s assistance. Silver View Beach Resort (in Yangon%01-512 You’ll have to generally rely on your hotel’s
The only way to get to Ngwe Saung Beach 681 ext 318; s/d US$20/25; a) Rather than being cooking because most of the accommoda-
without first going through Pathein is to NGWE SAUNG rustically charming like others in this price tion, apart from the Treasure Beach Resort,
hire a boat in Chaungtha. This can be ar- e=âez;=' category, the Silver View Beach is motel- is too far from the village to make eating at
ranged with your hotel or simply by showing This beautiful white-sand beach, also known like, and not especially suited to the beach. one of the several restaurants there conveni-
up at the pier, however the latter method is as Silver Beach, facing the Bay of Bengal is The rooms are relatively more modern, but ent. In the village, the See Sar Restaurant
difficult without some ability to speak Bur- in the early stages of being developed and the grounds are crowded with a decaying and Charlie Restaurant have English menus
mese. The trip costs K25,000 for the entire marketed as a rival destination to Ngapali children’s jungle gym. and serve seafood (K2000) and some stand-
boat and takes around 1½ hours. further north. Several top-end bungalow- Yuzana Resort (in Yangon%01-581 100; r US$25-50; ard Bamar and Chinese dishes.
style resorts are already firmly established a) Because of its size it’s hard for the Yu-
BUS and several more are in the works, and few zana to not feel abandoned. This hotel, the Getting There & Away & Around
The rough 36km road between Chaungtha accommodation options cater for people first built at the beach in 2000, has a large. See p134 for details on possible flights from
and Pathein can be traversed in two hours on small budgets or local vacationers. The hangarlike reception area and 133 rooms in Yangon and Heho to Pathein with transport
by private car; public minibuses and pick- beach stretches much longer and is more low-slung buildings spread out in a large links to Ngwe Saung.
ups usually take about 2½ hours. Several pristine than nearby Chaungtha Beach. compound. It has a large terrace restaurant Buses going from Yangon to Ngwe Saung
companies plan to run larger, nicer and The village itself now sits roughly half- with good seafood. (K5000, five hours) leave from the Hlaing
more modern buses between the two towns way along the length of the 14.5km stretch Thar Yar bus terminal, west of the Yangon
in the near future. A new suspension bridge of coastline – the government ordered it TOP END River and a 45-minute to one-hour taxi ride
over the Pathein River does away with the moved lock, stock and barrel about 100m. Treasure Beach Resort (in Yangon%01-501 565; www from the city centre. There are several de-
previous ferry-crossing hassles and accom- Several of the resorts can arrange day .myanmartreasurebeach.com; cottages US$85-100; mains partures from around 7am to 2pm.
panying US$5 fare between Pathein and trips to an elephant camp halfway between US$8; ais) The nicest of all the resorts Minibuses from Pathein (K2500, two
Chaungtha or Ngwe Saung beaches. Parts Ngwe Saung and Pathein. and occupying the best location just one hours) stop first at the intersection between
of the road to Chaungtha are unsealed. The minute’s walk from the village, the Treas- the beginning of the village and the Treas-
road passes through nearly-barren scrub- Sleeping ure Beach is also one of the oldest. It’s very ure Beach Resort. If staying further south
land before crossing the U Do Chaung by Several luxurious resorts were in some stage well managed, the grounds are meticulously the bus should be able to drop you at your
bridge, and after that climbs forested hills of construction at the time of research. Con- manicured and the spacious bungalows have resort; conversely, you should be able to
to an elevation of around 300m. This area tinued progress for some seems to depend satellite TVs and porches ideal for sunset catch the bus leaving Ngwe Saung (7am,
is said to be inhabited by elephants, mon- on the not-unimportant variable of having viewing. Reminiscent of a private, high- 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm) by waiting by
keys and leopards; at one point you’ll pass customers. The devastating 2004 tsunami end Balinese resort, the Treasure Beach is the side of the road. If you’re staying north
through a lush forest reserve. From there, was felt here, and despite the very minimal sophisticatedly laid back. The restaurant of the village you’ll have to hire transport
the road descends into an area of coconut damage business appears to have been badly serves reasonably priced European and or walk.
groves and rice paddies. Over half the vil- affected. There’s no lack of space for fur- Bamar meals. The breakfast buffet (part of The upmarket resorts such as the Treas-
lages passed along the way are Kayin. ther development but the government seems the price) includes hard-to-find cereal and ure Beach and Palm Beach offer van serv-
For transport info on getting to Chaung- committed to controlling the pace, size and French toast. ices to customers from either Pathein (1¼
tha from Pathein see p134. Uncomfortable nature of the resorts – mostly top-end. The Palm Beach Resort (in Yangon %01-581 100; www hours) or Yangon (four hours) – but the
minibuses leave from Chaungtha Beach for road gets progressively worse the further .thepalmbeachresort.com; r US$60-80; mains US$13; a vans don’t come cheap. Share taxis can be
Pathein (K2500, 2½ hours) at 7am, 11am and south one travels from the village to the point is) The beautiful, long and narrow cen- arranged for Ngwe Saung from Pathein
1pm from the bus station in the village. where only 4WD vehicles can safely navigate tral building at the upmarket Palm Beach, (K30,000) and Yangon (K70,000).
Comfortable large air-conditioned buses through the rough and sandy patches. Be south of the village, leads to an infinity There is no way to get to Ngwe Saung by
(Shwe Pyi Lwin is the best company) leave aware that some hotels are located on this pool perched over the beach. The grounds road from Chaungtha without first going
from Chaungtha Beach for Yangon at 7am stretch of road. The phone system here is here are unexpectedly unkempt. Its res- through Pathein. If coming by boat from
(K5000 to K6000, six to seven hours). Com- unreliable so it’s recommended to contact taurant has an interesting but expensive Chaungtha (K25,000 for entire boat, 1½
ing from Yangon, buses leave from Hlaing the Yangon number if there is one. menu. The hotel is closed from May to hours) ask to be dropped off as close to
Thar Yar bus station to Chaungtha leaving late October. your hotel as possible, though this is de-
several times daily in the morning until MIDRANGE Sunny Paradise Resort (in Yangon % 01-546 pendent on the tide and water depth at each
lunchtime. Golden Sea Resort (in Yangon %01-241 747; s/d 002; www.sunnyparadise.net; s US$55-80, d US$65-105; location.
It’s theoretically possible to travel north US$15/20) This is the cheapest place to stay in ais) This upscale resort north of the There are a few trishaws available to
via the town of Gwa all the way to Ngapali Ngwe Saung at the moment. The rooms in village is a compound of several buildings carry you short distances.
140 N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • Ta u k k y a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o 141
0 600 m
BAGO
NORTH OF YANGON THE HAMSA
In deference to legend, the symbol for Bago A B C
0
D
0.4 miles
TAUKKYAN is a female hamsa (hintha or hantha in Bur- INFORMATION Mahagi Paya..............................13 A4 Shwe See Seim Motel................ 28 A4
eq;k'äk¾® mese; a mythological bird) standing on the Sitthugyi Email Centre..................1 C3 Mahazedi Paya..........................14 A3 Silver Snow Guest House...........29 C3
Market.......................................15 B3
On the road to Bago, beyond Yangon’s air- back of a male hamsa. At a deeper level, 1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mon Weavers............................16 A3 EATING
Bogyoke Aung San Mosque......................................17 B3 35 Restaurant.............................30 B3
port at Mingaladon, you reach Taukkyan, the symbol honours the compassion of the Equestrian Statue....................2 C2 Shwegugale Paya.......................18 A3 Hadaya Café..............................31 B3
where the road to Pyay forks off to the male hamsa in providing a place for the fe- Church.........................................3 B3 Shwemawdaw Paya...................19 D2 Kyaw Swar...............................(see 30)
Clock Tower................................4 C3 Shwethalyaung Buddha.............20 A3 Panda Restaurant.....................(see 26)
northwest, while the Bago and Mandalay male to stand in the middle of a lake with Four Figures Paya.........................5 B3 Snake Monastery.......................21 D3 Shwe Le Restaurant....................32 B3
road continues on to the northeast. Shortly only one island. Hence, the men of Bago are Gothaingotan Paya......................6 A4 Three Lions Cheroot Factory......22 B3 Triple Diamond Restaurant......(see 30)
Hintha Gon Paya.........................7 D2 Woodcarving Workshops...........23 A3
beyond the junction is the huge Taukkyan said to be more chivalrous than men from Kanbawzathadi Palace & SHOPPING
War Cemetery with the graves of 6374 Al- other Burmese areas. In popular Burmese Museum..................................8 D3 SLEEPING Colours of Myanmar Art Centre..33 B4
Kha Khat Wain Kyaung................9 C2 Bago Star Hotel..........................24 B4
lied soldiers who died in the Burma and culture, however, men joke that they dare Kyaik Pun Paya..........................10 A4 Emperor Hotel............................25 B3 TRANSPORT
Assam campaigns of WWII. There is also a not marry a woman from Bago for fear of Kyinigan Kyaung........................11
Maha Kalyani Sima.....................12
A3
B3
Myananda Guest House.............26
San Francisco Motel...................27
B3
B3
Bus Station.................................34 B4
Pick-ups to Kyaiktiyo................(see 31)
memorial bearing the names of the almost being henpecked! 2
To Kyaiktiyo (120km);
27,000 soldiers who died with no known Mawlamyine (220km);
Mandalay (382km)
grave. Maintained by the Commonwealth 19
War Graves Commission, the cemetery is a royal capital called Hanthawady (from 9 2
7
beautifully landscaped. the Pali-Sanskrit ‘Hamsavati’, meaning the 1

You can get to Taukkyan on a No 9 bus Kingdom of the Swan) at the edge of the Footbridge 4
Rd To Seinthalyaung
from Yangon or aboard any Bago-bound lake. During the later Mon dynastic peri- d ala
y Buddha (2.5km)
32 an
bus from either the Aung Mingalar Bus ods (1287–1539), Hanthawady became the 16 15
on
-M
29
ng Leikpya
(Highway) Terminal or the Tha-khin Mya centre of the Mon kingdom of Ramanadesa, 14
11 Train
Station 25
Ya Reservoir
30 8
Pan-gyan Gate terminal (see p90). which consisted of all southern Myanmar. 3
20 22 26 3
23 5
The Bamar took over in 1539 when King
Ba
BAGO (PEGU) 31 21
go
Tabinshwehti annexed Bago to his Taungoo 27
pExš"
Ri
17
kingdom. The city was frequently mentioned
ve
18
r
12
%052 / pop 48,000 by early European visitors – who knew it as

The logical first stop after leaving Yangon, Pegu – as an important seaport. In 1740 the 6
Bago feels like an amusement park of fas- Mon, after a period of submission to Taun- 13
Ba Yint Noung St
cinating Buddhist religious sites. It’s very goo, re-established Bago as their capital, but
-Bago Rd
easy to do a day trip to Bago from Yangon, in 1757 King Alaungpaya sacked and ut- 28 34
but shuttling from one site to the other terly destroyed the city. King Bodawpaya, 4
Yangon
makes it difficult to do any of them any who ruled from 1782 to 1819, rebuilt it to
10
justice. It’s best to take your time and spend some extent, but when the river changed
To Hanthawady Golf &
the night, although there’s a lack of quality its course the city was cut off from the sea 24
33
Country Club (2.5km);
Yangon (80.5km)
accommodation here. An early start to visit and lost its importance as a seaport. It never
the sites is probably the best idea, as Bago again reached its previous grandeur.
can get very hot around noon. Bago is upping the ante in the race for of you. The golden slab you see is only the
Bago is only about 80km from Yangon, Sights & Activities bigger and longer Buddhas. A 60m to 70m torso. Measuring 55m long and 16m high,
yet is just far enough off the beaten track Several of the major sites have ticket one is in the works scheduled to be com- the Shwethalyaung is a good 9m longer
to avoid many tourists. The town is like counters where foreigners are asked to pay pleted sometime in 2006. Whether complete than the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho in
a clogged artery because the highway that a US$10 admission fee. One ticket is good or still eerily surrounded by scaffolding, you Bangkok, but still 19m short of the Buddha
passes through; buses slow to disgorge their for entrance to the Shwethalyaung Buddha, can find it in a clearing next to the Myetha- in Dawei (see p163). You’ll find the Shwe-
passengers, and motorcycle and trishaw Shwemawdaw Paya, Kanbawzathadi Palace layaung (Emerald Reclining) Buddha. thalyaung to the west of the Yangon–Bago
touts competing for your attention. & Museum, Mahazedi Paya and Kyaik Pun Mr Han, a knowledgeable guide who road, only a little more than 1km to the
There is a very basic email service, Sit- Paya. All other sites are free or staff re- speaks excellent English, can be found at Yangon side of the train station. A sign on
thugyi Email Centre, east of the river. quest visitors to make a nominal donation. the Myananda Guest House (see p144) or the platform in front of the image gives the
We are not recommending this, but several contacted at [email protected]. measurements of each body part; the little
History travellers report not being asked to pay ad- finger alone extends 3.05m.
Bago was reputedly founded in AD 573 by mission when visiting certain sites in the SHWETHALYAUNG BUDDHA The Shwethalyaung is reputed to be one
two Mon princes from Thaton, who saw a late afternoon. Most sites have a separate erás;elY;='".ur;" of the most lifelike of all reclining Bud-
female swan standing on the back of a male nominal camera and video fee. They are This reclining Buddha is so big that from dhas. The Burmese say the image represents
swan on an island in a huge lake. Taking open from early in the morning to late in looking up from the bottom steps it’s im- Buddha in a ‘relaxing’ mode – instead of
this to be an auspicious omen, they founded the afternoon. possible to determine exactly what’s ahead parinibbana (death) – since the eyes are
142 N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o 143
wide open and the feet lie slightly splayed over the hti (umbrella-like pinnacle) and a anew, as at the Mandalay Palace, includ- MAHA KALYANI SIMA
rather than parallel. new one was raised. ing the king’s apartment and audience hall. (MAHA KALYANI THEIN)
The sturdy iron shed that houses the King Bodawpaya, in the reconstruction Among other copied marvels, the original mh;klY;,Isim'
image may look rough and ready, but it’s of Bago after the ravages of Alaungpaya, audience hall featured a seven-level roof, This ‘Sacred Hall of Ordination’ was origi-
spacious and airy and gives you a far better rebuilt the stupa to 91m in 1796, but from two levels higher than Mandalay Palace, nally constructed in 1476 by Dhammazedi,
view than offered by the cramped cells that that point it has had a rather chequered and was topped with solid gold tiles. The the famous alchemist king and son of Queen
house most reclining Buddhas. The walk- career. A new hti was added in 1882, but a government is keen to make the site into Shinsawpu. It stands beside the road en
way up to the platform is crowded with major earthquake in 1912 brought it down. a showpiece of sorts, as King Bayinnaung route from the train station to the Shwethal-
souvenir and handicraft stalls. The stupa was repaired, but in 1917 another ruled during an era when Burmese do- yaung. It was the first of 397 similar sima
Originally built of brick and stucco in major quake again brought the hti down mains reached their furthest in Southeast (ordination halls) he built around the coun-
994 by the Mon King Migadepa II, the and caused serious damage. Again it was Asia. The nearby Mon site of Oktha-myo, try, copying plans brought back from Sri
Shwethalyaung was allowed to deteriorate repaired, but in 1930 the biggest quake of meanwhile, is all but ignored. Lanka. Philip De Brito, the renegade Por-
and was then restored several times before them all completely levelled the stupa and The small, well-stocked, octagon-shaped tuguese adventurer, burnt it down in 1599
the destruction of Bago in 1757. The town for the next 20 years only the huge earth museum displays Mon, Siamese and Bagan- during his period of plunder, and during
was so completely ravaged that the huge mound of the base remained. style Buddhas; clay tobacco pipes; glazed the sacking of Bago in 1757 it was destroyed
Buddha was totally lost and overgrown by Reconstruction of the Shwemawdaw Paya tiles and pots; bronze weights and scales; once again.
jungle. It was not found until the British commenced in 1952 and was completed in pieces of the original teak stockade; and Subsequently, it suffered from fires or
era of the 1880s when an Indian contractor, 1954, when it reached its present height. weaponry. quakes on a number of occasions before
digging in a large earth mound for fill to The glittering golden top of the stupa being levelled by the disastrous 1930 quake.
be used in the construction of the railway reaches 14m higher than the Shwedagon in HINTHA GON PAYA As with the Shwemawdaw, reconstruction
line, rediscovered the image. Restoration Yangon. At the northeastern corner of the hs¿;kun'".ur;" was completed in 1954. Next to the hall are
began in 1881 and the present iron and stupa, a huge section of the hti toppled by Located behind the Shwemawdaw, this 10 large tablets with inscriptions in Pali and
steel tazaung (shrine building), a product the 1917 earthquake has been mounted into shrine (admission free) has good views over Bago Mon. The hall itself features rows of tented
of a Calcutta engineering company, was the structure of the stupa. It is a sobering from the roofed platform on the hilltop. arches around the outside, with an impres-
completed in 1903. The 1930s saw another reminder of the power of such geological According to legend, this was the one point sive separate cloister and marble floors in-
flurry of renovation activity, as a mosaic disturbances. rising from the sea when the mythological side. Niches along the inside upper walls
was added to the great pillow on which the Like the Shwedagon in Yangon, the stupa bird (the hintha or hamsa) landed here. A contain 28 standing Buddha images.
Buddha’s head rests, and Italian marble was is reached by a covered walkway lined with statue of the bird, looking rather like the Across the road from the Maha Kalyani
laid along the platform. stalls – some with interesting collections figures on opium weights, tops the hill. The Sima, by the corner, is a curious monument,
Near the huge head of the image stands of antique bits and pieces. Along the sides stupa was built by U Khanti, the hermit the Four Figures Paya, with four Buddha fig-
a statue of Lokanat (Lokanatha or Avalokites- of the walkway a collection of rather faded monk who was also the architect of Man- ures standing back to back, in somewhat
vara), a Mahayana Buddhist deity borrowed and dusty paintings illustrates the terrible dalay Hill. You can walk to it by taking similar fashion to the four seated Buddhas
by Burmese Buddhism. Behind the reclin- effects of the 1930 earthquake and shows the steps down the other side of the Shwe- at the Kyaik Pun on the outskirts of town.
ing Buddha image is a set of huge painted the subsequent rebuilding of this mighty mawdaw from the main entrance. An adjacent open hallway has a small reclin-
reliefs depicting the legend of the found- stupa. ing Buddha image, thronged by followers,
ing of the image. The price of admission KYAIK PUN PAYA and some macabre paintings of wrongdoers
is worth it. KANBAWZATHADI PALACE & MUSEUM kYŸik'pön'.ur;" being tortured in the afterlife.
A Japanese war cemetery, Kyinigan Kyaung, kemõ;js;dI à nn'"et;'NH='¾¨ptiuk' There’s something uncannily impressive
can be seen on the grounds of a monastery Recently, the original site of Hanthawady, about these four seated Buddhas with regal MAHAZEDI PAYA
just north of Shwethalyaung. which surrounded a former Mon palace, gazes that seem to see all, about 1.5km out mh;ectI.ur;"
was excavated just south of the huge Shwe- of Bago just off the Yangon road. Built in Continuing beyond Shwethalyaung Paya
SHWEMAWDAW PAYA mawdaw Paya. Walled in the Mon style, the 1476 by King Dhammazedi, it consists brings you to the Mahazedi (Great Stupa)
eráem;e/;.ur;" square city measured 1.8km along each side of four 30m-high sitting Buddhas placed Paya. Originally constructed in 1560 by
Shwemawdaw Paya stands northeast of the and had 20 gates. The palace compound back-to-back around a huge, square pillar. King Bayinnaung, it was destroyed during
train station. You can’t miss the stupa, as in the centre, known as Kanbawzathadi, According to legend, four Mon sisters were the 1757 sacking of Bago. An attempt to
its height of 114m dominates the town. The housed King Bayinnaung from 1553 (or connected with the construction of the Bud- rebuild it in 1860 was unsuccessful and the
Shwemawdaw is said to be over 1000 years 1566 according to some sources) to 1599 dhas; it was said that if any of them should great earthquake of 1930 comprehensively
old and was originally built by the Mon to and covered 82 hectares. About 26 hectares marry, one of the Buddhas would collapse. levelled it, after which it remained a ruin.
a height of 23m to enshrine two hairs of of this area have been excavated. Bayin- One of the four Buddhas disintegrated in This current reconstruction was only com-
the Buddha. In 825 it was raised to 25m naung, the brother-in-law of a Taungoo the 1930 earthquake, leaving only a brick pleted in 1982. Stairways lead up the out-
and then to 27m in 840. In 982 a sacred king, moved to Bago after conquering an outline. It has since been fully restored. side of the stupa, and from the top there are
tooth was added to the collection; in 1385 older Mon principality called Oktha-myo, En route to the Kyaik Pun Paya, you can fine views over the surrounding area. Note
another tooth was added and the stupa was which is east of the Hanthawady site. detour to the picturesque Gaung-Say-Kyan the model stupa by the entrance.
rebuilt to a towering 84m. In 1492, the year Only the palace’s brick foundations are Paya, reached by crossing a wooden bridge The Mahazedi originally had a Buddha
Columbus sailed the Atlantic, a wind blew visible today. Everything else is being built over a small lake. tooth, at one time thought to be the actual
144 N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o 145
Buddha tooth of Kandy, Sri Lanka. After road to Shwethalyaung, off the main avenue San Francisco Motel (% 22265; Main Rd; s/d which sells paintings by local artists at in-
Bago was conquered in 1539, the tooth was through town; the proprietors don’t mind US$5/8; a) Further southwest near the rail- expensive prices.
later moved to Taungoo and then to Saga- receiving visitors. Further west, towards way crossing, this motel has single and dou-
ing near Mandalay. Together with a begging Mahazedi Paya, you can visit a woodcarving ble rooms both with shared or private toilet. Getting There & Away
bowl supposed to have been used by the workshop. Double rooms in the new wing (west) are You can get to Bago by either rail or road; in
Buddha, it remains in the Kaunghmudaw cleaner and brighter looking. either case the trip takes about 2½ hours. By
Paya (p254), near Sagaing, to this day. Festivals & Events Silver Snow Guest House (s US$5-15, d US$10-20) road, the route to Bago follows the Manda-
Women are not allowed to climb to the On the full moon of the Burmese lunar This guesthouse is across the Bago River, lay road to Taukkyan, about 30km from the
top of the stupa. month of Tagu (March/April) the Shwemaw- near the reservoir and clock tower. It has capital, where the Pyay road branches off.
daw Paya festival attracts huge crowds of clean economy rooms, as well as rooms with From here to Bago the country is much more
SHWEGUGALE PAYA worshippers and merrymakers. private bathroom. There is no air-con, but all open and the traffic somewhat lighter.
erágUkel".ur;"
rooms have a fan and a mosquito net upon
A little beyond the Mahazedi, this zedi has a Sleeping request. BUS
dark gu (tunnel) around the circumference The quality of accommodation reflects the Shwe See Seim Motel (%22118; 354 Ba Yint Noung Wait outside the Myananda Guest House
of the cylindrical superstructure. The monu- fact that many travellers visit Bago only for St; s/d US$24/30; as) The Shwe See Seim is for buses passing through Bago.
ment dates to 1494 and the reign of King the day. Most options are on the busy main a nine-room place near the bus station that
Byinnya Yan. Inside are 64 seated Buddha road between the railway line and the river is slightly fancier than all but the Bago Star. Southeastern Myanmar
figures. From here you can take a short cut near the place where buses to and from Bungalow units and regular rooms cost the Pick-ups to Kyaiktiyo depart from in front
back to the corner in the road, just before Yangon stop, so rooms towards the back of same. There is a small and fairly dirty pool. of Hadaya Café (K500, five hours). Buses
the Shwethalyaung. these hotels are quieter. Electricity is gener- Travellers keen to avoid government- to Kyaiktiyo leave throughout the day from
ally available only from the evening to early owned hotels should bypass the Shwewatun near the Emperor Hotel, and cost around
OTHER ATTRACTIONS morning. Cheaper rooms only have fans. Hotel, out towards the Shwemawdaw Paya. K800 to K1000 one way. Buy a ticket on
North of the main town centre, near the Bago Star Hotel (%23766; 11-13 Kyaikpon Pagoda the bus rather than from the ticket booth
eastern bank of the river, is one of the Rd; s/d US$24/30; as) The Star, the nicest Eating next to the Emperor Hotel, which charges
three largest monasteries in the country, and most expensive hotel in Bago, is located Panda Restaurant (dishes K800; a) Just west of an inflated K1500 or so.
Kha Khat Wain Kyaung. Watching the long line just off the highway on the same road as the the river, the Panda offers a good, medium- Several buses pass through Bago from
of monks and novices file out of the mon- Kyaik Pun Paya. Almost all the hotel is built priced, standard Chinese menu. 8am to 9am on their way to Hpa-an (K2500,
astery in the early morning for their daily from Myanmar wood. Accommodation is Shwe Le Restaurant (chicken dishes K1100) This five hours).
round of alms is quite a sight. Busloads of in wooden bungalows that have hot-water is a clean and quiet gem half a block north Until the bridge over the river was re-
tourists visit the monks at lunchtime at showers. Generators keep the air-con hum- of the main road, just west of the river. The cently completed, to reach Mawlamyine by
10.30am. You’re free to wander around the ming. The pool, while not especially smart, menu features Shan, Indian and Malaysian bus you had to go through Hpa-an or trans-
eating hall but we recommend that you be does the job in the searing heat. A nice, curries. fer to the ferry at Mottama. At the time of
cognisant of the kind of atmosphere created large restaurant is attached. Discounts are 35 Restaurant (dishes K1000; a) A friendly but research, the bridge wasn’t open for use;
by groups of foreigners snapping photos of available. shabby place a few doors west of the Em- however, in the future the schedule will
the monks like caged animals in a zoo while Myananda Guest House (%22275; 10 Main Rd; r peror Hotel, this is a popular eatery and likely be similar to that for Mottama. A few
they eat their meal in silence. US$4-10; a) This is the best budget choice; not a hotel. The menu is a combination of buses pass through Bago for Mottama at
A short distance further south from the it’s small and friendly and on the main road Bamar, Chinese, Indian and European; the 8am and then at 9pm (K3000, nine hours).
Kanbawzathadi Palace & Museum is the a few doors towards the river from the Ha- food is cheap and good, and the menu in-
Snake Monastery, where you’ll find a former daya Café (see opposite). Economy rooms cludes ‘goat fighting balls’ (goat testicles), Taungoo & Inle Lake
head of a monastery in Hsipaw who has have fan, shared bathroom and toilet. One prepared in a number of ways. Several buses pass through Bago from 5pm
since been reincarnated in the form of a triple room has air-con, fridge, TV and at- Opposite the Emperor Hotel, the Hadaya to 6.30pm on their way to Kalaw (K6000,
115-year-old boa constrictor. Apparently tached cold-water bathroom. Plans were in Café is a popular teashop with a nice selec- 12 hours).
this snake told its owner up north the exact the works to add a few more rooms and tion of pastries, and good-quality tea and Air-con buses from Bago to Nyaungshwe
address where he needed to go in Bago in a breakfast area on the sun-drenched top coffee. (K2000) leave at around 1.30pm from near
order to complete the construction of a floors. English-speaking Mr Han, a know- Two more restaurants serving good Ba- the Myananda Guest House and Emperor
stupa begun in a previous life. People from ledgeable guide, can be found here. mar and Chinese are the Triple Diamond Hotel. The trip takes about 16 hours – un-
all over come to pay homage to the snake on Emperor Hotel (%23024; Main Rd; r US$3-7; a) Restaurant and Kyaw Swar. fortunately, this means arriving in Inle Lake
weekends and during Buddhist Lent. Every The Emperor looks modern and nice from at around 4.30am. It’s worth noting that this
10 days it eats 5kg of chickens. There’s a the outside, decked out in reflective glass Shopping bus trip can get quite chilly, and some warm
zedi nearby on a small hilltop that’s great and potted plants, but this six-storey hotel Northwest of the Kyinigan Kyaung, a set- clothing or a blanket is recommended.
for watching sunsets. is a different story inside. Standard rooms, tlement of Mon weavers uses handlooms For Taungoo, make reservations on any
Many Bago women work in local che- some with Asian-style toilet and bath, tend to produce cotton longyi (sarong-style gar- of the northbound buses, including those
root factories – there are around 15 large to be dank and with peeling paint jobs. ments) and other textiles. heading to Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake), Kalaw
ones, and many smaller ones. The Three Touts from here are generally more aggres- Next door to the Bago Star Hotel is the and Mandalay. You will have to pay the full
Lions cheroot factory is a little north of the sive than others in town. Colours of Myanmar Art Centre (h8am-5.30pm), fare of K5500 (4½ hours).
146 N O R T H O F YA N G O N • • B a g o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 147
Mandalay If you hire a taxi in Bago, be sure that

Most of the private bus companies run- your driver agrees to drop you in Yangon
ning air-conditioned express buses beat your hotel.
tween Yangon and Mandalay stop in Bago. A guide and driver to Mt Kyaikto (for the
While they usually won’t sell tickets for the Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) stupa; p149) can
short distance between Yangon and Bago, be hired through any of the central Bago
you can book tickets from Bago onward to hotels for around US$25 return. The same
Mandalay – for the full Yangon–Mandalay tour booked in Yangon costs US$80.
fare (around K5000). The Mandalay buses
usually arrive in Bago by 7pm; inquire at TRAIN
the Bago bus station or the travel desk in It is possible to visit Bago by breaking the
the lobby of the Emperor Hotel. Yangon to Mandalay train journey here.
During the high season (November to Feb-
Yangon ruary), it is wiser to do this coming down
Buses from Yangon (K500 to K1000) op- from Mandalay rather than going up from
erate approximately hourly from 5am or Yangon, because of the difficulties of getting
6am and depart from the Aung Mingalar a seat from Bago to Mandalay; from Bago to
(Highway) bus terminal (p86) north of the Yangon you could easily stand, or wait for
airport. GEC Bus Company and Taung Hta another train or change to the bus.
Ban Company both make the two-hour trip Trains from Yangon come through Bago
in relative comfort. Pick-ups and smaller for Mandalay at 6.50pm and 9pm (ordinary/
buses (K300, front seat K500) depart from 1st class US$11/29, 14 hours). It’s possible © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
the Tha-khin Mya Pan-gyan Gate termi- to take either of these trains to Taungoo restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
nal on Strand Rd near the Western Park (ordinary/1st class US$4/8, four hours).
Restaurant in Yangon, but they can often From Yangon, there are about six trains
take as long as four hours as they stop and a day from around 6am to 8pm (ordinary/ everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
start so often. Avoid travelling on Sunday, 1st class in express train US$2/5). Trains the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
however, when Bago is a very popular ex- leave Bago for Yangon (ordinary/1st class
cursion from Yangon and the buses get very US$2/5, two hours) at 5am and 8am.
crowded. Southbound trains come through Bago
on their way to Kyaiktiyo (ordinary/1st
TAXI class US$3/6, four hours) and Mottama (the
A more expensive but more convenient al- stop for Mawlamyine) at 6am and 8.45am
ternative is to hire a taxi from Yangon. A (ordinary/1st class US$6/14, eight hours).
taxi between Yangon and Bago should cost These are not express trains and, as usual,
about US$15 to US$20 each way, with a bit the buses are faster.
of bargaining – and has the additional ad-
vantage of giving you transport from place Getting Around
to place once you get to Bago. One-way Trishaw is the main form of local transport
taxis back from Bago to Yangon can be had in Bago. A one-way trip in the central area
for as low as K8000. To hire a taxi in Bago, should cost no more than K300. If you’re
enquire at any Bago hotel. going further afield – say from Shwethal-
Some drivers may feel that getting you to yaung Buddha, at one end of town, to Shwe-
Bago and back, and to the two big attrac- mawdaw Paya, at the other – you might as
tions – the Shwemawdaw and the Shwe- well hire a trishaw for the day (about K2500
thalyaung – is quite enough for one day. to K3000). Horse carts are another option
Don’t accept excuses that other sites are (K4000 to K5000 for a day). It’s also possible
‘too far off the road’, are down tracks ‘only to rent a motorcycle for the day (K7000), a
fit for bullock carts’ or are simply ‘closed’. much more liberating and convenient way
Choose a driver with reasonable English- of travelling between all of Bago’s far-flung
language skills in Yangon. sites. Ask at your guesthouse.
147
Southeastern
Myanmar
Apart from the world-famous Golden Rock, southeastern Myanmar – a long, narrow isthmus
bordering the Andaman Sea that resembles the string of a kite – is virtually unknown, at
least in part because of continued tension between government troops and armed opposi-
tion groups in some areas. Both sides have laid antipersonnel mines, often near villages,
along the lengthy and mountainous porous border with Thailand.
However, the northern part of this region including the pilgrimage site of Kyaiktiyo (Golden
Rock), the countryside around leafy, decrepit Mawlamyine and the village of Hpa-an make
for an interesting natural loop, unhindered by the restrictions further south. The boat trip
between Mawlamyine and Hpa-an is a real treat. The southern no-go zones, combined with
the usual poor transport infrastructure mean that foreign visitors rarely journey down to
the border town of Kawthoung, the southernmost point in Myanmar.
S O U T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
In Kawthoung, though, there are a few long stretches of white-sand beaches and hun-
dreds of unexplored islands of the Mergui Archipelago that rival those in southern Thailand
in terms of sheer beauty. In fact, most of the handful of travel companies permitted by the
government to navigate the watery maze of the archipelago is based in Thailand, though
the Myanmar government has begun to eye the region with eagerness for its tourism po-
tential. After all Dawei, another southern city that foreigners are allowed in, is only a few
hours’ drive from Bangkok.
HIGHLIGHTS
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)
The views from the gravity-defying marvel Thanlwin River

of Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) (p149) are Mawlamyine
enough to inspire a religious conversion
A vast archipelago where few foreigners
have gone before lies beyond
Kawthoung (p167) – try your luck island
hopping Maungmagan
Floating up the Thanlwin River on the
Mawlamyine–Hpa-an ferry (p157)
promises some rays and picturesque
scenery
The Win Sein Taw Ya (p158), one of the
worlds largest Buddhas, is relaxing in the
countryside outside of Mawlamyine
Maungmagan (p163) is a long, almost
deserted beach near Dawei Kawthoung
148 M O N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) 149
CLIMATE SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR of Mon villagers; the result being that villag-
Mon State in the north of the region has
a longer rainy season (June to November)
MON STATE 0
0
80 km
50 miles
ers from the southern Ye area have migrated
across the border to Thailand as much in
than other parts of the country; the cool mân'¨p–'ny' search of work to support their families.
season is December and January. The homeland of the Mon ethnic group
Sitto
Similar to southern Thailand, in Tanin- wraps around the east coast of the Gulf of KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)
ung River
tharyi Division to the south, it rains for Mottama (Martaban) from the mouth of the kYiŸk'qI"rui"
Th
Than n
about nine to 10 months a year, with a dry Sittoung (Sittang) River to the northern end %035
au
Sittoung
ng
lwi
yi
Kyaiktiyo
period only occurring during December to of Tanintharyi Yoma (Tenasserim Range). The sublime balancing boulder stupa called
n
(Golden Rock)
River
Bilin
April. Once native to a broad region stretching THAILAND Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock), is a major pilgrim-
Ri
To Bago;
ve
r
Yangon KAYIN
from southern Myanmar to Cambodia, the Theinseik
STATE age site for Burmese Buddhists and tour-
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Mon have been absorbed – sometimes will- Thaton
8
Hpa-an ists alike. A visit shouldn’t be undertaken
Mt Zwegabin (722m) Mae Sot
Foreigners are generally restricted from ingly, sometimes unwillingly – by the more Paung Zathabyin 85 lightly as a day trip, which in theory could
Myawadi
travelling by road south of Thanbyuzayat. powerful Bamar and Thai cultures in Myan- Moktama
Mawlamyine Kawkareik
involve a taxi, long-distance bus, truck,
The government attributes road attacks in mar and Thailand over the last 1000 years or Bilu Kyun
Kyaikmaraw human porters and your own foot power,
this area to Mon or Kayin (Karen) insur- so. The absorption has been so effective that Mudon but it’s well worth the hassles – as much
Kyaikkami
gents, but the attacks don’t discriminate their own history and culture have received Setse Thanbyuzayat for the inspiring views from the top as for
between government and private vehicles, little attention by scholars, even though Gulf of Mae Sariang
the gravity-defying boulder itself. The man-
Zam R
Moktama
and the motive always seems to be rob- vestiges of the Mon culture and language (Martaban) made plaza around the Golden Rock is the
i iver
bery. Regardless of claims on either side, clearly survive in both countries. Kalagok
Kyun MON
typical Myanmar mix of religious iconogra-
it’s very unclear whether these assaults Though no-one knows for sure, the Mon STATE Payathonzu
Three phy and commercial development, monks
Ye
are politically motivated or whether the may be descended from a group of Indian Pagodas Pass
Sangkhlaburi
and laypeople meditating in front of golden
robbers are simple bandits. For political immigrants from Kalinga, an ancient king- Malwetaung Buddha statues while several metres away
reasons, though, the government tends to dom overlapping the boundaries of the rosary beads and toy wooden rifles are for
Dawe
lump both kinds of attacks together as ‘in- modern Indian states of Orissa and Andhra sale. All but the fittest will probably have to
i
Kanbauk
surgent activity’. Pradesh. They are responsible for much of Heinze 8 take a breather at one of the drink stands
Kyun
the early maintenance and transmission of clinging to the cliffsides on the road from
River
Maungmagan
GETTING THERE & AWAY Theravada Buddhism in mainland South- Kyun
Maungmagan Dawei
the truck stop to the stupa area.
From a foreign traveller’s perspective there east Asia even though Sri Lankan monks The small stupa, just 7.3m high, sits atop
are really two parts to southeastern My- may have initially introduced the Tripi- Launglon
Kyun
Thayetchaung the Golden Rock, a massive, gold-leafed
anmar: the first is the northern part that taka (the ‘three baskets’; the classic Bud- Zalut TANINTHARYI boulder delicately balanced on the edge of
includes Kyaiktiyo, Hpa-an, Mawlamyine dhist scriptures) and ordination lineage. In Dawei
DIVISION
a cliff at the top of Mt Kyaikto. Like Shwe-
Point
and a few places a little further south. All of the case of Myanmar, the Bagan kingdom dagon Paya in Yangon or Mahamuni Paya in
ANDAMAN
Tanintha
these destinations are accessible by a com- forcefully captured these elements, while SEA Mali
Palauk Mandalay, the Kyaiktiyo stupa is one of the
bination of boat, bus, car and train with in Thailand it was the peaceful interest of Kyun
Palaw
most sacred Buddhist sites in Myanmar.
ryi
no more than the usual number of hassles King Rama IV that led to the growth of Taninthayi Legend states that the boulder maintains
Kyun Kadan
of travelling in Myanmar, which is to say Mon-styled Buddhism. Kyun its precarious balance due to a precisely
a lot. Since 1949 the eastern hills of the state placed Buddha hair in the stupa. Appar-
Rive
Thayawthahan Myeik
The second part to the region – covering (as well as mountains further south in Ta- Kyun ently King Tissa received the Buddha hair
r
Dawei, Myeik, Kawthoung and the archi- nintharyi Division) have been a refuge for in the 11th century from a hermit who had
Myeik
Doun
Kyun Tanintharyi
pelago of islands off the coast – are a differ- the New Mon State Party (NMSP) and its secreted the hair in his own topknot. The
ent story. Each form of overland transport tactical arm, the Mon National Libera- Thabawleik
hermit instructed the king to search for a
Archip
Pyinzabu
cannot be used by foreigners. Therefore, to tion Front (MNLF), whose objective has Kyun boulder whose shape resembled the her-
reach any of these places from within My- been self-rule for Mon State. In addition to Letsutaw Kyun
Ketthayin Lenya mit’s head, and then enshrine the hair in
Kyun
anmar, at some point you will have to fly harassing the Myanmar government, the a stupa on top. The king, who inherited
elago
Bokpyin
and you will have to fly Myanma Airways Mon have occasionally fought the Kayin Owen
supernatural powers as a result of his birth
(MA). It’s possible to travel south from over control of the remote border cross- Kyan to a zawgyi (an accomplished alchemist)
Dawei to Kawthoung or north from Kaw- ings along the Thai border. With growing Lampi
father and naga (dragon serpent) princess,
thoung to Dawei by boat. At first glance. government influence along this section of Kyun found the rock at the bottom of the sea.
Kawthoung might seem like a convenient border – and following a string of Kayin de- River Upon its miraculous arrival on the moun-
entryway to the country from Thailand, but feats – the situation has cooled. In 1995 the Maliwun
tain top, the boat used to transport the
Gulf
again it requires a flight to reach Yangon. NMSP signed a ceasefire with the Myanmar rock then turned to stone. This stone can
yan
of
Pag
Boat and flight fares in the south add up government. Still, as late as December 2004 Kawthoung
Thahtay Kyun
Thailand be seen approximately 300m from the main
quickly, making it the most expensive part there were reports of continuing fighting, Ranong
boulder – it’s known as the Kyaukthanban
of the country to travel in. instances of forced labour and harassment (Stone Boat Stupa).
150 M O N S TAT E • • K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) 151
The atmosphere surrounding Kyaiktiyo necting trails, however, sometimes lead to highway and Kyaiktiyo. Kinpun is where KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)
during the height of the pilgrimage season unexpected views of the valleys below. most of the accommodation for foreigners & AROUND 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
(from November to March) is charged with Further behind the pagoda plaza area, is – besides a few hotels near the top of the
Kyauk Htat Gyi
magic and devotion, especially when the down a stairway, there is a Potemkin village mountain itself – and the starting point for Phar Paya;
Naga Paya
Pagoda
glinting boulder is bathed in the purple, of restaurants, souvenir shops and guest- trips up the mountain to Kyaiktiyo Paya Kyaiktiyo
sometimes misty, light of dawn. Pilgrims houses for Burmese. (Golden Rock). Galay Zedi Aung Theikdi
Monastery
chant, light candles and meditate all through There is no Internet access anywhere in
the night. Men are permitted to walk along a Orientation & Information the area at the moment.
short causeway and over a bridge spanning Too many towns with similar-sounding
a chasm to the boulder and affix gold-leaf names make orientation confusing. Kyaik- Hiking Kyauk-si-yo
Pagoda
squares on the rock’s surface. tiyo is the least important. This is the town Several hikes originate from the Yatetaung Mok-so-taung Helipads
A new terrace allows devotees to view along the highway between Bago and points Bus Terminal, which means that unless you Mo-Baw Pagoda
Mt Kyaikto
Water Fall
the boulder from below. There are several further south. There is no reason to get out choose to stay at the Golden Rock Hotel – Koe-na-win
Pagoda (Upper) Kyaiktiyo Pagoda
Checkpoint
other stupas and shrines scattered on the here or to stay here. Buses turn off the high- which provides information to nonguests – Koe-na-win Monastery Mountain Top Inn
Koe-na-win Kyaiktiyo & Restaurant
ridge at the top of Mt Kyaikto, though none way and end their journeys in Kinpun at the you have to make your way here (see oppo- Weik-zar Pagoda (Lower) Hotel Mya Zedi
Mountain
is as impressive as Kyaiktiyo. The intercon- base of the mountain, about 9km from the site). It’s around a 45-minute climb to the top (3681ft) Yatetaung
Bus Terminal & Golden Rock Hotel
of Ya-The Mountain, a 30-minute walk down to Sa-ma
Mountain
Truck Terminal
Yatetaung Camp
Mo-Baw waterfall and a 1½-hour walk to the Pon-nya Yathe
Nagapat Camp
THE REAL DEAL ON THE ROCK Sa-ma-taung paya and kyaung (monastery).
Mountain Mountain Sa-khan
Atwin Mya Sein Galay Camp
Didok-myaung
A trip to the Golden Rock requires planning, enormous patience, endurance and strong legs. Mountain
Apyin Mya Monastery
There is a US$6 entrance fee, payable at the tourist office (h6am-6pm) at Yatetaung or at the Sleeping Sein Mountain Shan-eik
Mountain
checkpoint near the top, before the Kyaiktiyo Hotel. By the way, your ticket is valid for 30 days, Although the Golden Rock can be visited as Shwe Son Zin-gyan
so you may visit again without paying the government another US$6. a day trip from Bago and in theory Yangon, Taung Pagoda Mountain View Point
(4.625mi)
In theory it is possible to reach the rock from Yangon, or Bago or elsewhere without ever this isn’t recommended; the advantage of
setting one foot in front of the other: bus to truck to sedan chair and repeat in the other direc- staying near the shrine is that you can catch Shew-son
Mountain
tion. But isn’t the whole point of a pilgrimage, for aesthetic, intellectual or religious reasons, at sunset and sunrise – the most magical times (3646ft) Sai-ta-mao
Camp
least in part about the effort to get there? We’re not advocating masochism, only that at some for viewing the boulder shrine. Foreigners
View Point
point you’re likely to want to walk up or down part of the way and the walking parts are very aren’t permitted to stay in one of the many
steep. Walking sticks are for sale but whether unaided or armed, it’s an aerobic workout. Take zayat (rest shelters) for pilgrims at the top,
breaks and drink lots of fluids. nor are they permitted to camp in wooded
These warnings aside, there are two ways to the rock from the base camp in Kinpun. The first areas on the mountain. Nat (Spirit) Well
is to hike all the way there. This is approximately 11km and takes between four to six hours. The In the town of Kyaiktiyo along the main Maha Myaing Pagoda
Ye Myaung Gyi Camp
trail begins past the bazaar of souvenir shops in Kinpun and there are numerous ‘rest camps’ road from Bago there are several guest- Kya-swe Camp
Taung Paing
Bo Bo Gyi
along the way where weary pilgrims can snack and rehydrate. Not many people, even the true houses, none of them very appealing, and Hmyaw-daw-mu
devotees, choose to hike all the way up and back. The way down takes from three to four hours there really is no reason to stay here rather Shwe Yin
Tha Camp
Dadu
Pagoda
Pagoda
and should not be attempted in the dark even with a torch; it’s too easy to stumble. than Kinpun.
The second way to the rock, which most people do both ways, is to ride one of the large trucks
(lain-ka) up the winding road to the Yatetaung Bus Terminal, the end point for all vehicle traffic. MOUNTAIN
No cars, taxis, pick-ups, or buses are allowed. The trucks’ beds are lined with wooden slats for Golden Rock Hotel (in Yangon %01-502 479; grtt@ Ye Myaung
benches (K500) and seat 35 or so people. Five or so are allowed in the much more comfortable goldenrock.com.mm; s US$38-45, d US$45-60; meals US$4- Pann Myo
Galay Camp
front seats (per person K1000) but these are usually reserved in advance by groups or families. 12; a) Even though it’s still a 40-minute Truck
Thu Inn
Terminal
As an individual traveller it’s difficult to secure a front seat, while a group of five has a better walk to the top, the Golden Rock Hotel, Golden
Sea Sar Guest House; Sea Star Restaurant
Kinpun Base Camp
chance. Regardless, you could be in for a wait of an hour or more as trucks don’t leave until just a few minutes up from the Yatetaung Sunrise
Hotel Kinpun
Creek
they are completely packed to the brim. Some tour groups reserve entire trucks for K16,000. Bus Terminal, is in an exceptionally beau- To Bago (128km);
Yangon (208km) To Hpa-an;
The ride to the top is 45 minutes or so and usually includes a stop around halfway up to allow tiful spot, surrounded by lush vegetation Kyaiktiyo Mawlamyine
trucks coming from the opposite direction to pass. The first truck in the morning is at 6am and and a sparkling mountain stream. Rooms
the last truck down is around 7pm, though you should try to be at the Yatetaung Bus Terminal in the combo concrete and stone buildings
earlier to avoid the risk of being stranded for the night. are spotless and cosy. The restaurant has set the mountaintop. Some of the rooms in
From the terminal, nothing more than a dirt lot surrounded by snack and souvenir shops, it menus and there’s an attached balcony with this inn, just before the foreigners’ regis-
takes 45 minutes to an hour to hike up the remaining steep, paved switchback path. For those spectacular views. Massages for your weary tration office for the paya open out directly
with royal fantasies or simply the aged or injured might want to be carried the rest of the way pilgrim bones are available. to mountain vistas. Rooms themselves have
in a sedan chair (US$5 to US$7 one way), a canvas litter held aloft by four perspiring Burmese Mountain Top Inn & Restaurant (in Yangon %01- private bathrooms and are small and basic.
men. Walking or reclining, you pass through an array of vendors along the way to the stupa 502 479; s/d US$38/45) The one advantage the Spa and massage services are offered.
area at the top. Mountain Top has over the Golden Rock, Travellers keen to avoid government-
and it is potentially a big one, is location: owned hotels should stay well clear of the
152 M O N S TAT E • • T h a t o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • M o t t a m a 153
Kyaiktiyo Hotel, along the ridge at the top Getting There & Away it reached its dynastic peak between the 6th With a ridge of stupa-capped hills on
of Mt Kyaikto. For individual travellers, Bago makes a bet- and 10th centuries AD. Shin Aran, a monk one side and the sea on the other, the
ter starting point for road trips to Kyaiktiyo from Thaton, carried Theravada Buddhism stage is set for an attractive urban setting.
KINPUN than Yangon, as hotel staff members there north to the Burmese kingdom of Bagan, Unfortunately, though, an unsightly row
Sea Sar Guest House (s US$3-10, d US$6-20; a) are adept at arranging inexpensive alterna- and in 1057 Thaton was conquered by King of modern Chinese-style buildings along
You’ll no doubt be approached by touts tives. A guide and driver to Kyaiktiyo can Anawrahta of Bagan. the waterfront and a general air of decay –
from Sea Sar upon arrival, but they should be hired through any of the central Bago Today Thaton sits on the main road and though this may seem atmospheric to co-
be trusted; this guesthouse is the best value hotels for around US$25. The same tour rail line that stretches from Bago to Mot- lonial architecture buffs – makes the city
in town. Its prime asset is the spacious com- booked in Yangon costs US$80. tama. Little of ancient Thaton is visible, as seem neglected and forgotten. But it’s this
pound edged with large, shady trees. Small the modern town has been built over the old very melancholy, so evident in the ornate
bungalows with private bathrooms, some BUS & PICK-UP sites. The town's core is a leafy place, lin- and decrepit mosques that captivate visi-
concrete and some wooden, have private Big air-conditioned buses that go straight ing each side of the highway with colonial tors. One was George Orwell (author of
porches. A few along one side are very nice from Yangon to Kinpun (K2500, 4½ hours) mansions and thatched-roof homes. A few Burmese Days), who was stationed here for
and large; the bathrooms themselves can leave from Yangon’s Aung Mingalar (High- older stupas dot the hillsides surrounding a time in the 1920s during his service with
sleep four. The cheapest rooms are austere way) Bus Terminal every 30 minutes or so the town and a picturesque canal network the Indian Imperial Police.
cubicles. Staff here can provide advice on from 7am to 1pm; other air-conditioned irrigates rice paddies and fruit orchards. Mawlamyine (some maps may show it
the rock. buses leave from Pansodan St in Yangon in as Mawlamyaing) served as the capital of
Pann Myo Thu Inn (s US$3-6, d US$6-12; a) A the evening for the same price. Buses from MOTTAMA (MARTABAN) British Burma from 1827 to 1852, during
close second behind the Sea Sar, the rooms Kyaiktiyo to Yangon leave regularly from mutËm which time it developed as a major teak
at this inn are tightly packed and the lack 7am to 1.30pm. Because the last bus of the The recent completion of a two-lane bridge port. A great deal of coastal shipping still
of elbow-room feels slightly claustropho- day returns to Yangon so early, it’s virtually over the Thanlwin River connecting the goes on, although Pathein and Yangon have
bic. With that said, the midpriced rooms impossible to see the Golden Rock in one nondescript town of Mottama with Maw- superseded it as Myanmar’s most important
with large wood floors and furniture and day on public transport from the capital. lamyine makes the double-decker passenger ports. The city is composed roughly of 75%
air-con are especially good value. The most There are large buses (K1700) and pick- ferries obsolete except for the most devoted Mon or some mixture of Mon, plus Kayin,
expensive rooms aren’t as nice, designed ups from Kyaiktiyo to Bago (K1000, three boat enthusiast. Despite the expected de- Bamar, Indian, Chinese and other ethnic
more with the tastes of local visitors who hours). crease in ridership, ferries are still sched- groups. A look around the old Christian
prefer concrete and a more ‘modern’ look, Small pick-ups leave from Kinpun to uled to leave the Mottama landing every cemetery gives a hint of how cosmopolitan
while the cheapest rooms are tiny and por- Hpa-An and Mawlamyine (front/back seat half hour from 7.15am to 6.45pm. The for- Mawlamyine was during the 18th and 19th
ous in terms of noise. K2500/1500, five hours) from 6am to 1pm. eigner fare is US$1 and the trip takes 20 to centuries.
Golden Sunrise Hotel (in Yangon%01-701 027; On the way to Mawlamyine there’s not 30 minutes, depending on the tides. If you
[email protected]; s/d U$20/25; a) A few much shade on the road in parts, which don’t feel like waiting, there’s a much faster Information
minutes’ walk outside the centre of Kin- means it gets extremely hot. The front seat 25-seat outboard across the river for K200, A police station is located over the road
pun village in the direction of the highway, is well worth the extra kyat. or you can always charter a boat across the from the government jetties. The post office
the Golden Sunrise is the most upmarket river for about K3000 to K5000. is a couple of blocks further inland.
choice in town. There are eight bamboo TRAIN Less frequent vehicle ferries from Mot-
bungalows with private verandas, situated A direct train from Bago to Kyaiktiyo tama to Mawlamyine depart depending Sights & Activities
around a garden. The rooms have hot water (US$7) leaves daily at 4.30am, supposedly on the tides; the last boat leaves just be- MON CULTURAL MUSEUM
and TV. arriving three hours later, though many fore sunset and the crossing takes about 30 mân'yw'ekY"múu¨ptiuk'
travellers report the trip can take six hours minutes. This two-storey museum (cnr Baho Rd – formerly
Eating or more. The train from Mottama (Mar- See p157 for details on bus and rail trans- Dalhousie St – & Dawei Jetty Rd; admission US$2) at the
Because Kinpun is the starting point for this taban) arrives in Kyaiktiyo around 5pm, port to Mottama. northeastern corner is dedicated to the Mon
popular Myanmar site, there are a number sometimes later if the train is delayed. history of the region. Exhibits are displayed
of good Chinese and Bamar restaurants up MAWLAMYINE (MOULMEIN) downstairs, while upstairs are reading rooms
and down the town’s main street including THATON em;'lDmui=' and toilets.
the following: sq®u %057 / pop 300,000 The museum’s modest collection includes
Sea Sar Restaurant (dishes K800) Long before the rise of Bagan, Thaton was The impression one has of Mawlamyine stellae with Mon inscriptions, 100-year-old
Mya Yeik Nyo (noodles with chicken K1000). an important centre for a Mon kingdom from Mottama, on the other side of the Than- wooden sculptures depicting old age and
that stretched from the Ayeyarwady River lwin River, is of a big, busy city. But wander sickness (used as dhamma-teaching devices
In addition to the food stalls at the Kin- delta to similar river deltas in Thailand, the streetlight-free streets after sunset and it in monasteries), ceramics, silver betel boxes,
pun base camp and all along the footpaths, and possibly as far east as Cambodia. Early seems quaint and startlingly undeveloped, royal funerary urns, Mon musical instru-
there is a veritable food court of restaurants on, Thaton may have been known as Su- especially for the country’s third-largest city. ments and wooden Buddha altars.
at the summit past the shrines and plaza vannabhumi, the ‘Golden Land’ – legend Completed only in 2004, a 3km bridge over In front of the museum is a British can-
area, down the steps where there are also says Asoka, the great Indian Buddhist em- the Thanlwin River – the longest in Myan- non dated 1826, plus a huge Burmese gong.
loads of souvenir shops and guesthouses peror, sent a mission here in the 3rd cen- mar – brings this leafy, tropical town, 45km Some labels are printed in English though
for Burmese. tury BC. Later it was called Dvaravati when from the sea, closer to the north. most are in Burmese only.
154 M O N S TAT E • • M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • M a w l a m y i n e 155
MAWLAMYINE 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS blinking electric halo; a second recliner in
In the city’s east, a hilly north–south ridge the same room has blinking lights all over
A B C D is topped with five separate monasteries and its body.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES shrines. At the northern end is Mahamuni In the centre of town towards the wa-
Aung Theikdi Zedi....................... 1 C5 Paya, the largest temple complex in Maw- terfront, on South Bogyoke Rd, are three
City Hall.......................................2 B6
1 Ebenezer Baptist Church...............3 B6 lamyine. It’s built in the typical Mon style mosques built during the colonial era when
First Baptist Church......................4 B6 with covered brick walkways linking various many Indians arrived to work for the Brit-
Htyan Haw Chinese Temple.........5 A6
12
Gaungse Kyun
(Shampoo Island) Kaladan Mosque..........................6 A3 square shrine buildings. The main image is ish. Since the Indian exodus of the 1970s
Kyaikthanlan Paya........................7
Mahamuni Paya...........................8
C5
C4
a replica of its namesake in Mandalay (see Muslim congregations have declined sub-
Moghul Shiah Mosque.................9 A3 p234) – without the thick gold leaf. Another stantially, but the survival of these grand
Bridge
Mon Cultural Museum...............10
Mosque......................................11
B6
B3
difference is that women may enter the main old buildings makes a walk here a fleeting
Sandawshin Paya........................12 B1 Buddha chamber here. In the outer cloister exercise in nostalgia.
Seindon Mibaya Kyaung............13
Soorti Sunni Jamai Mosque........14
C5
A4
several well-executed paintings depict local The most impressive building, Kaladan
Vehicle Jetty
to Mottama
Sports Stadium...........................15 B4 scenes from the 1920s and 1930s. Mosque, is a green-and-turquoise structure
2 28 U Khanti Paya............................16 C5
Farther south along the ridge stands Kyaik- designed by Sunni Muslims in the elabo-
U Zina Paya...............................17 C5
thanlan Paya, the city’s tallest and most visible rate ‘wedding-cake style’ similar to that
SLEEPING
Mawlamyine Attran Hotel...............................18 A3 stupa. It was probably here that Rudyard Ki- seen in Penang or Kuala Lumpur. Further
Hotel Aurora Guest House.................. 19 A5 pling’s poetic ‘Burma girl’ was ‘a-settin...’. in south, on the same side of the street, is
Breeze Rest House.....................20 A5
Ngwe Moe Hotel.......................21 A6 the opening lines of Mandalay: ‘By the old the smaller Moghul Shiah Mosque, a Shiite
Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea…’ place of worship painted blue with austere
r
Rive
EATING
18 Kentucky Chicken King..............22 A4 (never mind that it’s actually the Thanlwin Moorish arches. A couple of blocks further,
11 Mya Than Lwin Restaurant........23 A6 River that’s visible from the paya – poetic south of the central market, the Sunni Soorti
nlwin
6 Ruby Restaurant........................24 A5
North
licence). For a small donation you can take Sunni Jamai Mosque fills a similar space but
Tha
3 Bogy
oke SHOPPING a lift to the main platform surrounding the presents a more brilliant turquoise-and-
Rd Market.......................................25 B4
9
New Market...............................26 A3 40m stupa, which offers fine views over the white facade.
Zeigyo (Central Market)............ 27 A4
city and harbour. You can also see the plains Just up from Dawei jetty, on the eastern
26
TRANSPORT to the east towards Kyaikmaraw and the side of Strand Rd, the small but colourful
Boats to Gaungse Kyun..............28 B2
35 Thaton Tar Par St Dawei Jetty................................29 A6
coconut tree–shrouded islands in the mouth Htyan Haw Chinese temple serves the local
Government Jetty......................30 A5 of the Thanlwin River. Chinese community. Of historic interest
Rd)
15
Government Jetty......................31 A6
25 Below Kyaikthanlan is the 100-year-old is the sturdy brick First Baptist Church, also
in
Hpa-an Jetty..............................32 A4
Ma
27
Myanma Airways.......................33 B5 Seindon Mibaya Kyaung, a monastery where known as the Judson Church, on the corner
per
34 Pedestrian Jetty to Mottama......34 A4

King Mindon Min’s queen, Seindon, sought of Htet Lan Magyi and Dawei Jetty Rd; this
(Up
Thaton Jetty.............................. 35 A4
14 Si Bin
4 refuge after Myanmar’s last monarch, King was Myanmar’s first Baptist church.
gyi
Tha
r Ya
Ma
t St
22 8 Thibaw Min, took power. On the next rise
d
t R
Prison south stands the isolated silver-and-gold- MARKETS

Hte
plated Aung Theikdi Zedi. Mawlamyine’s zeigyo (central market) is a

32
13
Further south, on the western side of the rambling area on the western side of South
Rd
7 ridge, a view looks out over the city and is Bogyoke Rd, just north of the main pedes-
Kyaikthan
Strand Rd
24
a favoured spot for watching sunsets and trian jetty for Mottama. This market special-
1
catching evening sea breezes. Just beyond ises in dry goods, from inexpensive clothes
16
the viewpoint stands U Khanti Paya, built to to house wares. Much of the merchandise
5 commemorate the hermit of Mandalay Hill includes items that have ‘fallen off the boat’
)
Main Rd
20 17
19 fame; supposedly U Khanti spent some time on the way from Singapore to Yangon, such
South Bogyok
Police on this hill as well. It’s a rustic, airy sort of as untaxed cigarettes and liquor.
(Upper
Station
30
place centred around a large Buddha image. A block north on the same side of the
To Hpa-an
33
Various bells and gongs are suspended by street is the New Market, a large shed built as
Magyi
Post (64km)
e Rd (Lowe
Office
31 ropes from the steel supports of the sanc- ‘People’s Market No 2’ during Myanmar’s
Htet Rd
2
tuary’s ceiling. socialist era. Fresh fruits, vegetables and
U Zina Paya, on the southern spur of the meats are the attraction here.
r Main Rd)
ridge, was named after a former monk who A variety of street vendors set up shop
Baho Rd
To Thanlwin
6 Hotel (2.5km); 5 dreamt of finding gems at this spot, then along both sides of South Bogyoke Rd in
Train Station (2.5km); 29
Kyaikmata (24km);
Win Sein Taw Ya 3 10
dug them up and used the proceeds to the area of these two markets. The entire
To Bus Station (2.5km);
(Reclining Buddha; 24km);
Setse (64km); 23
Dawei Jetty Rd
Airport (2.5km); build a temple on the site. One of the shrine district is busiest in the early morning from
Mudon (29km);
Thanbyuzayat (64km);
Ye (145km)
21 4 Kyaikhami Pagoda (86km); buildings contains a very curvy, sensual- 7am to 8am; by 9am business is consider-
looking reclining Buddha topped with a ably slower.
156 M O N S TAT E • • M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • M a w l a m y i n e 157
GAUNGSE KYUN (SHAMPOO ISLAND) are many: wide stairways, open verandas, menu-wise. Basic Bamar and Chinese rice Yangon involved either taking a smaller,
ex:='"ez"kâYn'" high ceilings, tile floors. Unfortunately, the and curry dishes are served here. less comfortable bus to Mottama and then
This picturesque little isle off Mawlamyine’s atmospherics are at the expense of comfort Chan Thar Restaurant (Strand Rd; dishes K1000) It crossing by ferry or taking the larger, more
northwestern end is so named because, and cleanliness. Furniture is mismatched is another place that serves fish. comfortable buses from Yangon that took
during the Ava period, the yearly royal hair- and in need of repair, some rooms have several hours longer because they had to go
washing ceremony customarily used water private bathroom, others are shared and Getting There & Away via Hpa-an. Now several overnight buses,
taken from a spring on the island. resemble a high-school locker room. AIR including BTT buses leave Yangon for Maw-
You can hire a boat out to the island Ngwe Moe Hotel (%24703; Strand Rd; s/d US$27/36; Myanma Airways (%21500; Thit Tor Yon St; h9am- lamyine (K3000, six to seven hours) in the
from in front of the Mawlamyine Hotel for a) The only place in Mawlamyine to look 4pm) has once-weekly flights to/from Yan- evening. The ferry transfer is unnecessary
K1000. Other than just walking around the and act like a standard hotel – this isn’t gon that also connect with Myeik and and you can avoid the longer route through
nine acres and soaking up the ambience, you necessarily a good thing – the three-storey Kawthoung. At the time of research these Hpa-an if you choose. Tickets should be re-
can visit Sandawshin Paya, a whitewash-and- Ngwe Moe on Strand Rd is frequented by flights left Mawlamyine for Myeik (US$75) served in advance; however, you can hop on
silver zedi (stupa) said to contain hair relics, groups, more locals than foreigners, and the at 2pm on Wednesday but it’s not uncom- near the central market rather than the bus
and a nearby Buddhist meditation centre. rooms have the standard amenities: air-con, mon for both the days and times to change. station, a few kilometres outside town.
Among other islands in the river, there is the IDD phone, fridge and satellite TVs. For some reason these flights weren’t stop- Pick-ups to Hpa-an leave from around
largest one – Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island). Attran Hotel (%25764; [email protected]; ping in Dawei, so you have to go back to the central market every hour from 8am to
s/d US$25/35; ai) The large suites at the At- Yangon to fly to Dawei. The airport, a small, 3pm (K300, two hours).
Sleeping tran, replete with wicker-furnished sitting warehouselike structure, is 5km south of Mawlamyine’s main bus station for south-
Most of the accommodation is only a short room and satellite TV, are the most com- the city centre. Even though it’s a domestic bound buses or pick-ups is at the southern
trishaw ride from the central market and fortable rooms in Mawlamyine. The hotel, flight, you will have to go through immigra- end of town off the road to Ye, where pub-
ferry landing. a large compound directly on the river with tion and customs. lic vehicles go to Thanbyuzayat, Kyaikkami,
lots of concrete, is a bunch of old, yellow Setse, Dawei, or Payathonzu on the Thai
BUDGET bungalows in need of a paint job. Stand- BOAT border (opposite Three Pagodas Pass). The
Breeze Rest House (Lay Hnyin Tha, %21450; 6 Strand ard rooms with private bathrooms are nice, Double-decker ferries leave from the Hpa-an Thai border at Payathonzu is closed.
Rd; s US$4-8, d US$8-15; a) The rooms aren’t though not really good value. The hotel res- jetty in Mawlamyine at noon every other day To proceed south by road into Tan-
much but the Breeze, an attractive, blue taurant, on a deck by the river and lit up at for the trip up the Thanlwin River to Hpa- intharyi Division you’ll need luck, divine
colonial-style villa on Strand Rd is the best night, is a nice place to eat. an on the river’s eastern bank (US$2, five intervention and/or an official permit. At
value in Mawlamyine. A 2nd-floor balcony Travellers keen to avoid government- hours). It’s worth a trip to Hpa-an if only be- the time of research there were as many
with a river view is itself worth the price of owned hotels should stay clear of the Maw- cause this dirt-cheap riverboat cruise passes opinions regarding this subject as there
admission. Yin Maung, the friendly owner, lamyine Hotel, in the northwestern corner through stunning scenery of limestone are teashops in Yangon. The overwhelming
speaks English and is a wealth of informa- of the city. mountains and sugarcane fields – definitely consensus, however, is that it’s probably
tion about the area. The cheapest rooms more scenic than the Mandalay–Bagan boat not possible and possibly not desirable due
are nothing more than small windowless Eating trip. It’s not usually crowded and there are to the risk of robbery. This author was re-
cubicles with shared bathroom. More ex- For a city of this size, the eating options are a few sunchairs, perfect front-row seats for fused when trying to purchase a ticket at the
pensive rooms that sleep up to three are scarce. The Attran Hotel and Ngwe Moe the river show. Bring your own food and Mawlamyine bus station.
quite spacious and have a large, modern Hotel have restaurants that serve lunch and drinks.
bathroom with air-con. dinner. Your best bet is to walk from the There are two main jetties on the Maw- TRAIN
Aurora Guest House (%22785; 277 Lower Main Rd; Breeze Rest House south along Strand Rd. lamyine side for ferries to/from Mottama: Two express trains run from Yangon to
s US$4-10, d US$8-20) Not as friendly or suited to Mya Than Lwin Restaurant (Dawei jetty, Strand the vehicle jetty at the northern end of town Mottama at 7am and 10pm daily. Both
foreign travellers, nevertheless the Aurora Rd; fish K2000) This restaurant, in what ap- and the pedestrian jetty just south of the trains make brief stops in Bago and Thaton.
is the only other budget option. Around pears to be a former warehouse, is now a central market off Strand Rd (see p153 for When the trains are running on time the
the corner from the Breeze, the lobby to popular restaurant, hang-out and place for details on the ferries). trip takes nine hours – slower than the bus.
this guesthouse is up a steep flight of stairs. a cool bottle of beer. There’s an extensive Further south are two jetties reserved Still, the scenery from the train is, as usual,
The rooms are small and slightly musty – be menu with soups, pork, chicken, fish, eel for government boats only, followed by the much more engaging. Foreigner price for
sure to ask for one with a window – and the and prawns. For the lobster roast, order a larger Dawei jetty for boats to Dawei and an upper-class seat is US$17. Tickets can
carpet needs a wash. More expensive rooms day in advance. Myeik (Mergui). It’s quite difficult for for- be purchased at the train station.
have private bathroom and air-con; oth- Kentucky Chicken King (115 Strand Rd; chicken eigners to arrange passage on any of these In the reverse direction, one train leaves
ers only have a fan and shared bathroom. burgers K350) Like its more famous American boats. If you want to try your luck, it may Mottama at 7pm and is scheduled to ar-
Breakfast is not included. namesake KFC, the little KCK, only a block pay to inquire in Yangon at the office of rive in Yangon at 4.30am; another leaves
from the central market, specialises in juicy Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL; Map p98; in Yangon at 10am and arrives in Yangon at 6pm.
MIDRANGE fried poultry (two pieces of fried chicken %01-295 279). In Mawlamyine tickets may be purchased
Thanlwin Hotel (%21976; South Bogyoke Rd; s US$15- cost K1100). one day in advance at the Northern Rail-
20, d US$20-30; a) A colonial-era place that Ruby Restaurant (Lower Main Road; dishes K1000) BUS & PICK-UP way Booking Office, which stands between
must have been quite smart in its day, the This restaurant, a short walk from the Breeze Before the two-lane bridge over the Than- Strand Rd and South Bogyoke Rd, just north
Thanlwin has rested on its laurels, which Rest House, is bare-bones decoration- and lwin River was completed, coming from of the Hpa-an jetty.
158 M O N S TAT E • • A r o u n d M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E • • A r o u n d M a w l a m y i n e 159
A separate southern railway line begins at Mudon, 29km south of the city, is an area A side room to the inner sanctuary con- of the infamous Burma–Siam Railway,
the southern end of the city and terminates of verdant mountains home to deer, snakes tains sculptures depicting the Buddha in dubbed the ‘Death Railway’ by the over
at Ye. From Ye, another local train contin- and other wild forest species – ‘jungle food’ various stages of illness and death – other 16,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and
ues to Dawei. Foreigners have not been al- for restaurants in Mudon. The town is also than the traditional parinibbana reclining Asian coolies who were forced by the Japa-
lowed to travel on these rail lines for some known for cotton weaving. Pick-ups from posture, these are unusual motifs for Bud- nese military to build it. It was here that the
time, due to a lack of security further south. Mawlamyine’s market (K300) take around dhist temples. Two images show the Bud- Japanese broke into Myanmar after march-
With the military presence surrounding a 45 minutes. dha lying on his back with hands folded on ing over the rugged mountain range separat-
gas pipeline near Dawei, this situation is Just north of Mudon is a turn-off east to his abdomen; another depicts an ill Buddha ing British Burma from Tak in Thailand via
unlikely to change soon. Azin Dam, a water-storage and flood-control stooping over slightly with one hand clasped Three Pagodas Pass.
facility that’s also used to irrigate local rub- to his chest, the other hand against the wall A clock tower in the centre of Thanbyu-
Getting Around ber plantations. A tidy recreation area at as his disciples reach out to assist him. zayat stands at a road junction; the road
Motorised thoun bein (three-wheelers) are Kandawgyi – a lake formed by the dam – is a Next to the main sanctuary is a small mu- south leads to Ye while the road west goes
the main form of public transport around favourite picnic spot; bring your own snacks seum with Buddha images, donated by the to Kyaikkami and Setse. About 1.5km south
the city. The highest concentration is on or rely on the vendors who gather here on faithful, on the upper floor; other artefacts of the clock tower, a locomotive and piece
South Bogyoke Rd in front of the zeigyo. weekends and holidays. At the northern from the area are on the lower floor. Some of of track commemorating the Burma–Siam
Because there are relatively few foreign vis- end of the lake stands the gilded stupa of these objects are more than 500 years old. Railway are on display. A kilometre west of
itors, local transport costs are low and the Kandawgyi Paya. the clock tower towards Kyaikkami, on the
rates are probably not far off from what GETTING THERE & AWAY southern side of the road, lies the Thanbyu-
locals actually pay. The going rate is K200 Kyaikmaraw Two kinds of trucks frequently ply the zayat War Cemetery, which contains 3771
for a short hop within the centre of town kYŸik'mer; Kyaikmaraw road from Mawlamyine: green graves of Allied POWs who died building
and as much as K500 for a ride up the ridge This small, charming town, site of an im- Chevy trucks with wooden door panels and the railway. Most of those buried were Brit-
to Kyaikthanlan. You can also rent bicycles pressive temple, 24km southeast of Maw- wooden passenger compartments (K200, 45 ish, but there are also markers for Ameri-
from one of the hotels. lamyine is accessible via a sealed road. For minutes), and smaller, white Japanese pick- can, Dutch and Australian soldiers. The site
the most part, Kyaikmaraw is considered a ups (K300, 30 minutes). Lined with toddy is maintained by the Commonwealth War
AROUND MAWLAMYINE pacified area, although insurgents or ban- palms and rubber plantations, the road Graves Commission.
Only 14km south of Mawlamyine is the Pa- dits have been known to rob rubber planta- passes through eight villages before ending
Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery; at 400 acres it’s one of tions along the road to Mawlamyine. at the riverbank in Kyaikmaraw. GETTING THERE & AWAY
the largest meditation centres in Myanmar. Hugging the banks of the Ataran River, Thanbyuzayat is easily reached by public
Foreigners can visit for the night or several a branch of the Thanlwin River, the town Thanbyuzayat pick-up (K600, two hours) from the Maw-
days; sleeping and eating is gratis, medi- consists of mostly wooden homes with o®¨f†jrp' lamyine central market area; there are six
tation may paid for by the sweat of your thatched-palm or corrugated metal roofs. South of Mudon, little traffic is seen and the departures, all before noon. As there is no
brow, but courses can be quite expensive hills to the east are more densely forested. legal lodging in Thanbyuzayat, start early
(see p335). Buses (K100, 30 minutes) from SIGHTS Thanbyuzayat (Tin Shelter), 64km south so you can catch the last pick-up back to
Mawlamyine’s central market pass by the Kyaikmaraw Paya of Mawlamyine, was the western terminus Mawlamyine at around 4pm.
road junction to the monastery from where The pride of the town is this temple built by
it’s a short walk. Queen Shin Saw Pu in 1455 in the late Mon
Just off the road between Mawlamyine and regional style. Among the temple’s many THE DEATH RAILWAY
Mudon is Yadana Taung where local Bud- outstanding features are multicoloured glass The strategic objective of the Burma–Siam Railway’ was to secure an alternative supply route
dhists have only recently finished con- windows set in the outside walls of the main for the Japanese conquest of Myanmar and other Asian countries to the west. Construction
structing Win Sein Taw Ya, a huge reclining sanctuary, an inner colonnade decorated in on the railway began on 16 September 1942 at existing terminals in Thanbyuzayat and Nong
Buddha measuring around 170m in length, mirrored tiles, and beautiful ceramic tile Pladuk, Thailand. At the time, Japanese engineers estimated that it would take five years to link
making it one of the largest such images in floors. Painted reliefs appear on the exterior Thailand and Burma by rail, but the Japanese army forced the POWs to complete the 415km,
the world. Many other stupas and standing of several auxiliary buildings. 1m-gauge railway, of which roughly two-thirds ran through Thailand, in 16 months. Much of
Buddhas dot the area, affording wonderful Covered brick walkways lead up to and the railway was built in difficult terrain that required high bridges and deep mountain cuttings.
panoramas of both the sculptures and coun- around the main square sanctuary in typ- The rails were finally joined 37km south of the town of Payathonzu (Three Pagodas Pass); a
tryside. Nearby is Kyauktalon Taung, a flat- ical 15th-century Mon style. The huge main Japanese brothel train inaugurated the line. The railway was in use for 20 months before the
topped limestone crag crowned with stupas. Buddha image sits in a ‘European pose’, Allies bombed it in 1945.
On the opposite side of the road is a simi- with the legs hanging down as if sitting on An estimated 16,000 POWs died as a result of brutal treatment by their captors, a story chroni-
lar but smaller outcropping surmounted a chair rather than in the much more com- cled by Pierre Boulle’s book Bridge on the River Kwai and popularised by a movie based on the
by a Hindu temple. Pick-ups from Maw- mon cross-legged manner. A number of book. The notorious bridge itself still stands in Kanchanaburi, Thailand. Only one POW is known
lamyine’s market (K300) take 45 minutes to smaller cross-legged Buddhas surround the to have escaped, a Briton who took refuge among pro-British Kayin guerrillas.
the junction for the road to Win Sein Taw main image, and behind it are two reclining Although the statistics of the number of POWs who died during the Japanese occupation are
Ya. It’s another K100 for a horse-cart ride Buddhas, one with eyes open, one with eyes horrifying, the figures for the labourers, many from Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia,
to the Buddha itself. There’s an interesting closed. Another impressive feature is the are even worse. It is thought that 90,000 to 100,000 coolies died in the area.
line-up of monk statues on the road. carved and painted wooden ceiling.
160 K AY I N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K AY I N S TAT E • • H p a - a n 161
Kyaikkami Thanbyuzayat. Setse is a very wide, brown- parliamentary seats in the ill-fated May where the highly respected monk U Wi-
kYiŸkÅmI sand beach that tends towards tidal flats 1990 national elections, but were denied naya, whose solid support of democracy
Located 9km northwest of Thanbyuzayat, when the shallow surf-line recedes at low office by the military. Much of the state re- leader Aung San Suu Kyi is well known
Kyaikkami was a small coastal resort and mis- tide. The beach is lined by waving casuarina mains a potential battleground as sporadic throughout Myanmar, resided. U Winaya
sionary centre known as Amherst during the trees and has been a popular spot for out- fighting between Burmese troops and the passed away several years ago. Thamanyat
British era. Adoniram Judson (1788–1850), ings since colonial times. KNLA continues. monastery is about 40km southeast of Hpa-
an American missionary and linguist who You can stay at the privately owned Ngwe an, and there is a daily flow of small buses
has practically attained sainthood among Moe Guesthouse (s/d US$10/18). It’s on the beach, HPA-AN to this busy religious site. The bus fare from
Burmese Baptists, was sailing to India with along with several bungalows for Burmese .;"a® Hpa-an is K220.
his wife when their ship was blown off citizens. Rooms are basic and electricity is Hpa-an is a small but busy commercial Eleven kilometres south of Hpa-an is Mt
course, forcing them to land at Kyaikkami. scarce. A few modest restaurants offer fresh centre that, in itself, doesn’t necessarily Zwegabin, which is both a sacred and tall
Judson stayed on and established his first seafood. warrant a trip. However, the beautiful river mountain; the best kind. At 722m high it
mission here; the original site is now a Catho- For direct pick-up transport to Setse from cruise between here and Mawlamyine and affords panoramic views of the surround-
lic school on a small lane off the main road. Mawlamyine – read at least one long stop a few off-the-beaten-track excursions make ing countryside from the summit. To get to
Among other accomplishments, Judson in Kyaikkami – tickets (K300, 2½ hours) it worth the while of the intrepid travel- the mountain, take a pick-up in the direc-
developed the first Burmese–English dic- should be reserved a day in advance. Buses ler. Away from the jetty, which is crowded tion of Thamanya and get off at the Zwe-
tionary in 1849 and was the first person to run south but you may have to change once with trucks and motorcycles, it still has gabin junction; it’s a 15-minute walk from
translate the Bible into Burmese. He was in Thanbyuzayat and once in Kyaikkami. something of the village atmosphere; farm- here through a village to the base of the
imprisoned along with his wife by the Bur- ers come to town in their horse carts, or mountain on the west side past thousands
mese during the first Anglo-Burmese war trishaws stacked with baskets or mats to of identical Buddha statues lined up in row
and served as the official translator to the KAYIN STATE sell in the market. The townspeople are a after row. The path up isn’t exactly pictur-
Burmese court during the negotiations of mixture of Mon, Bamar and Muslim. Bur- esque – it’s nothing more than hundreds
the treaty that ended the war. Judson died kr='¨p–'ny' mese is the primary language, but Kayin and hundreds of concrete steps, but once up
in 1850 and was buried at sea, but the grave Many districts in Kayin State and Tanin- is spoken by many. The mosque seems to the top, the two-hour effort is rewarded. If
of his wife, Anne Judson, who died soon tharyi Division (which both share borders be the town hub and there are numerous you arrive before noon at the small monas-
after their release from prison in 1826, can with Thailand) are very much off-limits to teashops around town, along with pick-ups tery at the top you can take advantage of a
still be seen in Kyaikkami, about 200m off foreign visitors travelling from Yangon, but to Thaton and on to Kyaiktiyo. complimentary lunch (rice, orange and tea)
the main road near the school. things are changing. Kayin State, homeland You can reach Hpa-an, capital of Kayin and the 11am monkey feeding – different
However, the main focus of Kyaikkami to around a million Kayin, has probably re- State, by road from Yangon across a bridge primates, different menus. It’s possible to
is Yele Paya, a metal-roofed Buddhist shrine ceived more foreign visitors who have cross- over the Thanlwin River, west of the town, overnight here, which means you can also
complex perched over the sea and reached ed over – unofficially – from Thailand than or by river ferry from Mawlamyine. An- appreciate the fantastic sunsets. The de-
via a long two-level causeway; the lower from any other place. Many international other new bridge across the Gyaing River at scent down the east side of the mountain
level is submerged during high tide. Along volunteers have ventured into the frontier Zathabyin, east of Mawlamyine, links Hpa- takes around 45 minutes, and from the
with 11 Buddha hair relics, the shrine cham- area to assist with refugee concerns. an with Mawlamyine by road. The trip by bottom it’s another 3km to the main road
ber beneath Yele Paya reportedly contains a Ever since Myanmar attained independ- car takes an hour. from where you can catch a pick-up back to
Buddha image that supposedly floated here ence from the British in 1948, the Kayin From Hpa-an a rutted, unsurfaced road town. Hiring your own transport – some-
on a raft from Sri Lanka in ancient times have been embroiled in a fight for auton- heads 143km southeast to Myawadi, a town one to drop you off on one side and pick
(see Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi on p132 for omy. The main insurgent body, the Karen controlled by the Tatmadaw (armed forces) you up on the other – makes everything
more details on this legend). A display of National Union (KNU), controls much of on the western bank of the Thaungyin River run smoother.
21 Mandalay-style Buddha statues sits over the northern and eastern parts of the state, (known as Moei River to the Thais) op- Bring a good torch to explore Saddar Cave.
the spot where the Sinhalese image is sup- although recent Yangon military victories posite the northern Thai town of Mae Sot. It’s a good 10- to 15-minute journey through
posedly buried. have left the KNU and its military compo- A large number of Kayin refugees fleeing the cave to the other side, which exits onto
nent, the Karen National Liberation Army KNLA–Tatmadaw battles are encamped on a lake.
GETTING THERE & AWAY (KNLA), without a permanent headquar- the Thai side of the border in this area. Thousands of miniature clay and stone
During the early half of the day there are ters. A split between Christian and Bud- carved Buddhas covered in gold and bronze
occasional pick-ups to Kyaikkami from dhist factions has also weakened the KNU, Sights & Activities line the walls of Kawgun Cave, near Kawgun
Thanbyuzayat for K150 per person. You which had become the de facto centre of There are several interesting excursions village. If those weren’t enough, Yathaypyan
can also charter a taxi in Mawlamyine for the Democratic Alliance of Burma (DAB), from Hpa-an and while all are accessible Cave has more Buddha statues though not
around K4000. From Mawlamyine it’s takes an alliance of a dozen rebel groups fighting by public transport, it requires some long as many as Kawgun.
approximately 2½ hours to get here. for regional autonomy. The KNU head- waits and unreliable connections. It’s best Cross a long footbridge to get to the
quarters was also the seat of the National to try to hire a motorbike, with or without Water Lake Monastery, built in the middle
Setse Coalition Government of the Union of a driver, for US$10 or so from one of the of an artificial lake, from where there are
ck'cE Burma (NCGUB), a ‘parallel government’ guesthouses. good views of the surrounding countryside,
This low-key Gulf of Martaban beach lies established by a group of National League Hpa-an is famous among Burmese for obscured only by the birds and butterflies
about halfway between Kyaikkami and for Democracy (NLD) members who won the Buddhist village at Thamanyat Kuang and fluttering nearby.
162 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • D a w e i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • D a w e i 163
Sleeping & Eating hanging orchids, are interspersed through- road. Bear right at the fork, follow the road
After the leisurely boat ride up from Maw-
lamyine, the choice of accommodation in
TANINTHARYI out – it’s a very green town due to the abun-
dant annual rain that falls on the southern
another 200m and you’ll come to the paya
on your right.
Hpa-an is a disappointment. There are only
two places that accept foreigners; neither
(TENASSERIM) DIVISION half of Tanintharyi Division. In spite of its
remote location – or perhaps because of it – SHWETHALYAUNG DAW MU
offers breakfast. tno™;rItui='" Dawei has become a significant Burmese erás;elY;='" etÉmu
Soe Brothers Guesthouse (%058-21372; 46 Thitsa Known to the outside world as Tenasserim Buddhist centre. Completed in 1931, one of the largest re-
Rd; s/d US$4/6) Rooms here have some charac- until 1989, Tanintharyi has a long history Hundreds of Tanintharyi Division resi- clining Buddhas in the country – 74m long,
ter and more importantly windows, though of trade with India (especially Coromandel) dents fled to Thailand rather than work 21m high – is at the edge of town (about
no mosquito nets and a shared bathroom. and the Middle East. Because it’s joined on the 100 mile-long (160km) Ye to Dawei 5km from the central Strand Rd market).
The staff can help with excursions and can with Thailand to a relatively slender length railway completed for the most part in
provide a map of the town and surround- of land separating the Andaman Sea/Indian 1998. According to Amnesty International, SHINMOKHTI PAYA
ing area. Ocean from the Gulf of Thailand, this trade refugees reported conditions approaching rH='mutIÏ".ur;"
Parami Hotel (r per person US$5, with bathroom & link included Siam and other nations east those described in chronicles of the Japa- About 5km beyond Shwethalyaung Daw Mu
TV US$22) Just around the corner from Soe of Myanmar’s eastern mountain ranges. nese army’s ‘Death Railway’ though the on the same road, this paya is the most sa-
Brothers, the Parami’s rooms are smaller Routes through Dawei and Myeik were government asserts the work was done by cred of local religious monuments. Report-
though they do have mosquito nets. There especially important, and for many years, army personnel. edly constructed in 1438, it’s one of four
are a few rooms with a private bathroom before the arrival of the British in the late Dawei is also near the starting point of shrines in the country housing a Sinhalese
and the staff members here are helpful and 19th century, the Siamese either controlled the massive 700km Yadana gas pipeline, Buddha image supposedly made with a com-
friendly as well. the state or received annual tributes from which carries natural gas from fields in the posite of cement and pieces of the original
There’s a nameless but good teahouse its inhabitants. Gulf of Mottama to Ratchaburi Province Bodhi Tree. During religious festivals this is
next to the Soe Brothers Guesthouse that Most of the people living in the division in Thailand. About 400km of its length one of the liveliest spots in the district.
also serves fresh food including tasty fried are of Bamar ethnicity, although splitting runs through Mon State and Tanintharyi
potato and onion fritters. Near the guest- hairs one can easily identify Dawei and Division, the remainder through Thailand. KAREN BAPTIST CHURCH
houses, Lucky Restaurant has beer on tap Myeik subgroups of the Bamar who enjoy Reportedly, the Myanmar government re- The American Baptists had a long and ac-
and is deservedly popular. their own dialect, cuisine and so on. Large located villages originally in the pipeline’s tive history in Dawei, beginning in 1828.
The following eating options are also numbers of Mon also live in the division, path with little or no compensation for The Karen Baptist Church, founded by an
near the guesthouses: and in or near the larger towns you’ll find the villagers. There have also been charges American evangelist in 1957, is still in use
Khit-Thit Restaurant (New Age Restaurant) Kayin (often Christian) and Indian (often that forced labour was used in building the in the Shan Malei Swe Quarter; foreign vis-
San Ma Tu Restaurant (Bogyoke St) A good place for Muslim) residents, as well as Thais and the pipeline. Because of the pipeline’s perceived itors are welcome.
vegetarians. sea gypsies or Salon who inhabit the is- strategic importance, there is a fairly heavy
lands of the coast. Pearl farms on islands military presence around Dawei. BEACHES & ISLANDS
Getting There & Away in the area, established by the Ministry of Also because of its proximity to Bangkok, Few foreigners have been permitted to visit
BOAT Mines were expected to produce more than only a few hours by road, there’s talk of de- the coastal areas around Dawei, so details
See p157 for information on the double- 200,000 pearls in 2004. veloping the beaches around Dawei, which are still sketchy. The best local beach, Maung-
decker ferries that travel the scenic route some claim rival Ngwe Saung and Ngapali magan (also spelt Maungmakan), is around
between Hpa-an and Mawlamyine. Boats DAWEI ( TAVOY ) in the west of the country, for foreign tour- 18km west of Dawei via a narrow, winding,
leave Hpa-an at 7am every other day (US$2, q;"vy' ism. However, as long as the area remains patched blacktop road over a high ridge and
two hours). %036 politically unstable this won’t happen. through rubber plantations. A very wide
Despite the presence of a university, Dawei sand beach stretches 8km to 10km along a
BUS & PICK-UP is still a sleepy, tropical seaside town. Only Sights & Activities large, pretty bay. Near the road a few out-
Buses to Hpa-an (K2000), run by the Shwe recently connected to the rest of Myanmar THEINWA KYAUNG (PAYAGYI) door vendors offer snacks and beverages in
Chin The company, depart from Yangon’s by road and rail, it’s still only accessible sim'vekY;='" (.ur;"äkI") the shade of casuarina trees and palms. On
Aung Mingalar (Highway) Bus Terminal at to foreigners by air, so hardly any tour- The main Buddhist monastery in town, weekends and holidays this end of the beach
8pm and arrive at about 7am. From Hpa- ists visit. Areas to the west and north of usually referred to simply as Payagyi (Big draws a crowd, but if you walk 500m or so
an buses to Yangon leave every evening at town are planted in rice, while to the east Pagoda), contains a complex of sizeable up the beach you’re likely to have it all to
6pm and take from 10 to 11 hours. Buses lie patches of jungle. Some of the architec- Mon-style vihara (glittering cubes of reflec- yourself, save for the occasional fisherman.
and pick-ups to Mawlamyine (K300, two ture in town is quite impressive, with many tive mosaics filled with gilded Buddhas). The surf at Maungmagan is fairly tame,
hours) leave every hour from 8am to 3pm. old wooden houses, more modest thatch- The best time to visit Theinwa Kyaung is even during the southwest monsoon, and
Pick-ups from Hpa-an to Kyaiktiyo (K800 roofed bungalows and a few colonial-style in the early evening, just after sunset, when the water is very clean, better than around
for front seat) depart from the front of the brick-and-stucco mansions. Throw in a hordes of local residents come to make of- Myeik, so it’s a good beach for swimming.
green mosque. Pick-ups to/from Thaton few Eastern-bloc aesthetic touches and you ferings and to meditate for an hour or two. Opposite Maungmagan is a collection of
cost about K500. Buses depart from near have an interesting architectural mix. To find it, head northwest along Yodaya three pretty island groups that were named
the Parami Hotel at about 6pm for Kyaik- Tall, slender sugar palms, coco palms, ba- Rd, past the Royal Guest House on your the Middle Moscos Islands by the British –
tiyo and Bago. nana and other fruit trees, along with lots of right, until you come to a large fork in the they are now known as Maungmagan, Hienze
164 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • M y e i k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • M y e i k 165
and Launglon (or collectively as the Maung- direct flights per week from Yangon to by fire; the rebuilding effort has largely sac- Sleeping
magan Islands). Due to a natural profu- Dawei costing US$70 per person. The flight rificed style for utility. Accommodation in Myeik represents some
sion of wild boar, barking deer, sambar time is one hour and 10 minutes. The British occupied the region follow- of the worst value in the country. The few
and swiftlets (sea swallows), these islands Flights with YA continue to Myeik and ing the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1826, foreigners who make it here are generally
are part of a marine sanctuary, originally Kawthoung before turning around and hit- so that along with Sittwe, Myeik became business travellers and so there are only a
established by the British in 1927. ting the same three stops on the way back one of the first cities in Myanmar to be- few overpriced hotels and guesthouses with
Local taxi trucks from the Strand Rd to Yangon. The YA fare is US$50 between come part of British India. The Japanese no character.
market go to the beach at Maungmagan Myeik and Dawei and the ride takes less invaded in 1941, but by 1945 Myeik was Dolphin Hotel (%41523; 139 Kanphyar Rd; s/d
or to Zalut for about K800 and K1500 per than an hour. Between Dawei and Kaw- back in British hands, until independence US$25/40) Owned as a joint venture with the
person. thoung the fare is US$70. was achieved in 1948. Myanmar Fisheries Industry, the modern
Dolphin is easily the nicest place in town
Festivals & Events BOAT Sights & Activities though staff members aren’t especially
During the annual Thingyan festival in April, MFSL sails between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik The city’s most venerated Buddhist temple, friendly or helpful. Rooms in this two-storey
Dawei’s male residents don huge, 4m bam- and Kawthoung several times a month, but Theindawgyi Paya, sits on a ridge overlooking building are dark wood with modern and
boo-frame effigies and dance down the travel is slow and there is no fixed schedule. the city and harbour. A tall gilded stupa clean bathrooms. It’s on the road from the
streets to the beat of the kalakodaun, an It takes two days and two nights between stands on a broad platform with excellent airport into town.
Indian long drum. Yangon and Dawei, and possibly up to a views of the city below and islands in the Pale Mon Hotel (%41841; s/d US$20/30; a)
week in the rainy season. distance. Down the road from the airport and adja-
Sleeping & Eating Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express Pataw Padet Island, a five-minute boat ride cent to the Myeik Golf Club, the Pale Mon
Most visitors to Dawei come on business – (%51500) run daily trips to/from Myeik (per person K1000) from the harbour, is has large, poorly furnished plain rooms,
traders involved in oil, marine products, (US$20, 6½ hours). If Fortune leaves one named after two prominent hills at either with intermittent air-con, TVs with two
rubber, wolfram, tin or cashews – so the day, HiFi leaves the next; both depart at end of the island. Several religious build- channels, and private bathrooms with cold-
guesthouses are not used to tourists. around 4am. For some more information ings, stupas and sculptures have been water showers. The basic breakfast makes
Ekari Guest House (%21980, 21780; 52 Ye Yeiqtha see p168. constructed on the island. A large, hollow the rooms, in comparison, seem luxurious.
Rd; r US$10-25) This is a two-storey wooden reclining 66m-long Buddha, Atula Shweth- Ban Gaba Guest House (r US$10) Near the jetty
guesthouse in a relatively quiet neighbour- BUS alyaung, lies at the foot of rocky, jungle- south of the market, this two-storey place
hood. It’s the cleanest place in town. The Various private bus companies now operate covered Padet Hill to the south. Unusually, has bare, concrete rooms. There’s a balcony
more expensive rooms have private bath- buses from Yangon’s Highway bus terminal it’s a hollow cement form with an interior on the 2nd floor.
rooms. Electricity is available only in the all the way to Dawei, although foreign trav- walkway lined with comic-strip-like Jataka Other similar low-quality places charg-
early evening. ellers aren’t usually allowed to take the bus. (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) scenes ing around US$10 per room are the Ahyo-
Royal Guest House (Yodaya Rd; r per person US$10) At the time of writing, flying was the only as yet unfinished. neoo Guest House, Seikantha Hotel and
The Royal is located in a corner of one of sure way to get to Dawei from Yangon. If The harbourfront is worth a stroll to watch Shwekanenari Guest House.
the main four-way intersections in the cen- you were allowed to take a bus from Yan- stevedores loading and offloading cargo Travellers who wish to avoid Myanmar’s
tre of town. Rooms are not well-kept com- gon to Dawei, the trip would take about from ships big and small. government-owned hotels should stay clear
pared to Ekari and street noise is a factor 17 hours. The situation may change so it’s Not far from Theindawgyi Paya there’s of the Annawa Guest House, high on a
when trying to sleep. always a good idea to ask at the bus station a Muslim quarter with two mosques and lots ridge near Theindawgyi Paya.
Taungoo Rest House (%21951; r US$10) Right or consult a travel agent in Yangon. of teashops. There are seven other mosques
across the street from the Royal is another in the city. Eating
big, two-storey colonial building. There MYEIK (MERGUI) Near the harbour, Sibinthaya Zei (Municipal Seafood is abundant and inexpensive. One
is a café downstairs serving inexpensive ¨mit' Market; h6am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed holidays), is a local speciality is kat gyi kai (scissor-cut
Bamar–Muslim food. %021 very large and colourful collection of en- noodles): wheat noodles that have been cut
Tharaphu Hotel (r US$10) A similar option to Myeik doesn’t receive many foreign vis- closed stalls covering a city block. into short strips and stir-fried with seafood
the Taungoo. itors; rightly so as there’s not much of inter- and various spices. It’s a delicious meal,
Along Yodaya Rd, one of the main thor- est. Those who do venture here by boat or ISLANDS usually eaten for breakfast or lunch.
oughfares through town, are several small plane, though, will attract loads of friendly Boats to the nearby islands of the Mergui Meik Set (U Myat Lay Rd, Kan Paya Quarter; h6am-
rice- and teashops. Supereye (Strand Rd) of- attention. Until recently Myeik – which sits Archipelago can in theory be chartered for 5pm) An old wood-and-thatch teashop and
fers an extensive English-language menu on a peninsula that juts out into the Anda- US$60 per day from Myeik’s harbour. How- restaurant with a dirt floor, this is one of
of Chinese and Bamar cuisine, much of it man Sea – was a fairly picturesque coastal ever, the water around Myeik is less clear the best places to try kat gyi kai. Other
seafood-based. The food is good, if a little city with a wide range of architectural styles than the water around Kawthoung and treats available here include k’auk hnyìn kin
expensive by Myanmar standards. lining the streets. Increased cash flow due there are no reputable travel agencies in (sticky rice steamed with coconut milk in
to the export of seafood to Thailand caused Myeik either to facilitate a trip. If interested little banana-leaf packets).
Getting There & Away a miniboom in building during the 1990s, in the visiting this offshore wonderland, it Sakura Food & Drinks (U Myat Lay Rd, Kan Paya
AIR and many old buildings were replaced by makes sense to travel from Kawthoung (see Quarter; chicken dishes K2500) On the same street
Yangon Airways (YA) and the government- modern ones. Then in 2001, a large portion p167) or to arrange a trip from Ranong or as Meik Set, Sakura has an extensive menu,
owned Myanma Airways (MA) field three of the remaining old architecture was razed Phuket in Thailand (p333). though relatively pricey, of Southeast Asian
166 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • K a w t h o u n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • K a w t h o u n g 167
seafood dishes, Thai soups, burgers, ome- land Myanmar – 800km from Yangon and About 5km north of town, the fishing vil- and boat charters are expensive. However,
lettes and sandwiches. It’s very popular with 2000km from the country’s northern tip – lage of Thirimyaing Lan is known for its hill- Moby Dick offers boat trips to Sa Lon and
locals. Kawthoung is only separated from Thailand top Third Mile Pagoda, with good sea and Palau Ton Ton Island (per person US$32
Shwe Mon Family Restaurant (h7am-8pm) For by a broad estuary in the Pagyan River. island views. Thirimyaing Lanalso boasts including lunch).
traditional Bamar cuisine with local flair, The main business in town is trade with good local seafood restaurants along its wa- Opposite Kawthoung’s harbourfront the
try this place near the waterfront in the Seik Thailand, followed by fishing, rubber and terfront. Another 11km on is Paker Beach, southernmost island in the Mergui Archi-
Nge Quarter. cashews. Among the Burmese, Kawthoung reportedly the best nearby mainland beach. pelago, Mwedaw Kyun, is mounted by two
Point Restaurant (h7am-9pm) On the same is best known for producing some of the Locals cool off in the waters flowing from gilded zedi.
street as the Shwe Mon, closer to the har- country’s outstanding kickboxers. Most the surrounding mountains at the Ma Li Won
bour, this restaurant is not a bad place to Kawthoung residents are bilingual in Thai rock pools. To reach this bathing site involves LAMPI KYUN
down a beer or two and eat appetisers. and Burmese. Many residents born and a 38km drive through the beautiful Ma Li Further offshore, Lampi Kyun, possibly
raised in Kawthoung, especially members Won Valley north of Kawthoung, dotted one of the least disturbed island habitats
Getting There & Away of the large Muslim community, also speak with plantations of sugar cane, palm oil, in Southeast Asia, has been designated as a
AIR Pashu, a dialect that mixes the Thai, Malay betel and cashew nut, rubber and coconuts. national park. Extending about 90km long
In Myeik, the YA representative (%21160; 115 and Burmese languages. and 8km wide, this rugged landmass fea-
Bogyoke Rd) has an office near Sibinthaya Zei A few enterprising businesses hope to MERGUI (MYEIK) ARCHIPELAGO tures a forested, mountainous interior and
(Municipal Market). use Kawthoung as a base for boat trips to ¨mit'kâÆn'"cu two year-round rivers that flow into the sea
Myanma Airways (U Myat Lay Rd) flies from Yan- the hundreds of islands in the nearby Mer- Far beyond the value of any local product – from the island’s western shore. Wildlife on
gon to Myeik daily for US$100 (one hour gui archipelago. Although it’s not far north rubber, marine products or swiftlets’ nests – the island includes white-bellied sea eagles,
and 10 minutes). There are three flights of the region of Thailand devastated by is the Mergui Archipelago’s huge, almost Brahminy kites, parakeets, hornbills, gib-
a week between Mawlamyine and Myeik, the December 2004 tsunami, Kawthoung completely untapped potential in the beach- bons, crab-eating macaques, flying lemurs,
and Myeik and Kawthoung that cost US$70 came away relatively unscathed; that is ex- going and ecotourism market. The locals civets, tigers, leopard cats, boar, barking
for each leg. The MA office is next door to cept for the tragic death of 20 people who say there are over 4000 islands in the archi- deer, sea otters, crocodiles and fruit bats.
Sakura Food & Drinks. were washed away after they gathered on pelago, though British surveyors recognised Some naturalists speculate that the in-
a bridge to watch the wave come in. Any only 804. Most are uninhabited, though a terior of Lampi might harbour hitherto-
BOAT downturn in tourism to southern Thailand few are home to ‘sea gypsies’, a nomadic sea- undiscovered animal species, or species
Both Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express will undoubtedly impact on Kawthoung. faring people who sail from island to island, thought to be extinct elsewhere in South-
(%51500) have trips at 11am daily to Dawei stopping off to repair their boats or fishing east Asia, such as the Sumatran rhinoceros
(US$20, 6½ hours) and at 8am daily to Sights & Activities nets. Known as Salon to the Burmese, chao or kouprey. A few Phuket-based tour com-
Kawthoung (US$25, 6½ hours). For more Kawthoung’s bustling waterfront is lined náam to the Thais, orang laut or orang basin panies operate hiking and river excursions
details see p168. with teashops, moneychangers and shops to the Malays and Moken or Maw Ken (sea- on Lampi – see p333 for a list of outfitters.
MFSL sails, on average, twice a month selling Thai construction materials. Touts drowned) among themselves, this may have
between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik and Kaw- stroll up and down the pier area, arranging been the first ethnic group to have lived in Tours
thoung, but travel is very slow and tickets boat charters to Thailand for visitors and what is today Myanmar. With stones tied Moby Dick Tours (in Yangon %01-441 0129, 01-202
hard to get. traders. Along one side of the harbour lies to their waists as ballast, Moken divers can 064; www.mobydick-myanmar.com) This full-service
Cape Bayinnaung (Victoria Point) named after reportedly descend to a depth of 60m while travel agency is in an office attached to the
BUS & PICK-UPS King Bayinnaung, a Bamar monarch who in- breathing through an air hose held above restaurant of the same name on the jetty
There are daily buses and pick-ups from vaded Thailand several times between 1548 the water’s surface. (see p168). Moby Dick rents bicycles, ar-
Dawei, 249km north, but it’s highly un- and 1569. A bronze statue of Bayinnaung There’s an ongoing dolphin research pro- ranges overnight boat trips to offshore is-
likely foreigners will be permitted to travel outfitted in full battle gear and brandishing gram in the islands, though tourists aren’t lands, day trips to the Malewon Valley, and
by bus to Myeik. Foreigners are similarly a sword pointed at Thailand – not exactly a allowed to visit. The government is building importantly can assist with immigration
prohibited from travelling by road south to welcoming sight for visiting Thais – stands a bridge between Palau Ton Ton Island and matters. Showers are available for 20B.
Kawthoung, though at the time of research at the crest of a hill on the cape. the mainland. During low tide it’s possible MT&K Tourism (in Yangon%01-663 161; www.travel
road work was proceeding apace to link the At the top of the hill overlooking the har- to swim or kayak into an enormous cave tomyanmar.com; 19 Yodaya Lane, Yangon) The MT&K
two towns. bour is the Pyi Taw Aye Paya. Unlike many on Kyet Mauk Island where you see reef company runs seven-day sea-kayaking trips
other temples, you can walk inside and fish and snakes. On Lon Khuet Island, over out of Kawthoung.
KAWTHOUNG under the main stupa originally built in 80 people live farming birds’ nests from
ek;¾eo;='" 1949 to a height of only 5m; it was later inside a huge cavern; a hole in the top of Sleeping
If coming here from within Myanmar, raised to its current stature of 21m. There the cave lets in some sunlight, making for There are only three places in Kawthoung
you’re likely be startled by the wacky sight of are eight meditation niches that represent a breathtaking scene. approved to accept foreigners, and none are
foreigners in bathing shorts and bikinis, day- the eight days of the Buddhist week, and A sea-gypsy festival is held during the sec- especially good value. Note that Thai baht,
trippers on visa runs from Ranong, Thai- 14 Buddha images representing the styles ond week of February at Ma-Kyon-Galet kyat and US dollars are readily accepted.
land. Travelling between the two countries seen in other Asian countries. A banyan village on a small island near Lampi. The electricity supply can be erratic.
at this point in time feels like teleporting tree brought from Sri Lanka provides the There is no regular transport to any of Kawthoung Motel (%51046; cnr Bogyoke Rd &
50 years. At the southernmost tip of main- only shade. these islands, except to the closest ones, Bosonpat St; r 800B; a) A 500m or so uphill
168 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • K a w t h o u n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N • • K a w t h o u n g 169
walk from the jetty, the four-storey Kaw- Shopping

thoung Motel is the classier of the slim A huge duty-free market, built in a pseudo- KAWTHOUNG BORDER CROSSING
lot. Simple, comfortable, carpeted, double Bamar style in 1997, sits right next to Kaw- This is an open border. Boats to Kawthoung (250B, 40 minutes) from Thailand leave the Saphan
rooms have private cold-water shower and thoung’s harbour. Pla pier in Ranong almost 10km away regularly from around 8am till 6pm. After getting your
satellite TV. Breakfast in the attached night- Just under the hill are Super Market Cherry passport stamped by Thai immigration, board one of the boats near the immigration office and
club is rudimentary. (%51067; 253 Pagoda Rd) and Acme Fabric Centre you’ll be taken to the Myanmar immigration office. At this point you must inform immigration
Honey Bear Hotel (%21352; r 800B; a) This (AFC; %21193; 252 Pagoda Rd), two good shops authorities whether you’re a day visitor – in which case you must pay a fee of US$5 for a permit.
hulking four-storey building takes up a to pick up high-quality handicrafts and Apparently, this ‘day pass’ actually allows you to stay a total of two nights and three days in
good deal of the waterfront about 150m lacquerware, though prices are higher than Myanmar, although most ‘visitors’ spend only a few minutes to an hour before heading back to
from the main jetty. Rooms are only pass- in Yangon. Thailand with a new Thai visa. If you have a valid Myanmar visa in your passport (e-visas aren’t
able, not especially uplifting, and the noisy recognized at this border), you’ll be permitted to stay up to 28 days.
generator can be a nuisance. Getting There & Away & Around It’s slightly more complicated if leaving Myanmar from Kawthoung. If you did not originally
Tanintharyi Guest House (%51784; Garden St; It is now legal to travel between Dawei and enter the country from Kawthoung and have not arranged a permit through a travel agency or
r K400; a) You get what you pay for at the Kawthoung by plane or boat, or between immigration officials in Yangon, odds are you’ll be asked to pay a visit to the local Myanmar
Tanintharyi, the least expensive of Kaw- Yangon and Kawthoung by plane. Road Travels & Tours (MTT) office and pay a US$25 fee. Apparently approval can only be granted with
thoung accommodation options. On a street travel to Kawthoung, though, is forbidden. the Yangon office’s permission, so expect the process to take 24 hours, requiring an overnight
off Bogyoke Rd, an uphill walk from the stay.
jetty, this guesthouse has several large if bare AIR Ironically, if you have an expired visa authorities are even less enthusiastic about facilitating
all-concrete rooms with private bathroom. Flights between Yangon and Kawthoung your speedy departure. The staff at Moby Dick Tours can help but the process is a headache
Less expensive rooms have fans. cost US$145 on MA. All flights stop in involving multiple trips to the MTT office, a fee of US$35, a complete itinerary of your travel in
Andaman Club Resort (in Ranong %077-830 463, Myeik and some in Mawlamyine as well. the country, and a signed statement attesting to the fact you are a tourist and not a political
in Bangkok % 026-798 389; www.andamanclub.com; It’s not unusual for flights to be cancelled agitator.
r US$125-450) On nearby 700-hectare Thahtay because of bad weather. The airport is 11km Boats from Kawthoung can be hired for 150B from around 6am to 4.30pm, the time the
Kyun, is a huge five-star hotel complex that from town. Myanmar immigration office at the jetty closes.
sports a casino, duty-free shops and a Jack
Nicklaus–designed 18-hole golf course. BICYCLE
You can catch a five-minute boat ride out Moby Dick rents bicycles for 50B per hour. 486km road passes through some beauti- Buses run between Kawthoung and Myeik,
to the island from the jetty in Kawthoung ful scenery, including over 300 rivers and but while road conditions are improving,
for 200B. BOAT streams. The first 60 or so kilometres of this robbery is not uncommon, hence foreigners
Both Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express road north from Kawthoung is possibly the are unlikely to be permitted to travel this
Eating (%51500) run daily trips to/from Myeik best road you’ll find in all of Myanmar and route. At the time of research there was one
There are several teashops and restaurants (US$25, 6½ hours). If Fortune leaves one passes palm, rubber, cashew and durian bus every Tuesday (US$10, eight hours) that
along the waterfront and the block directly day, HiFi leaves the next. From the out- plantations. left Kawthoung for Myeik.
behind the Moby Dick Restaurant. side the long and sleek boats appear very
Moby Dick Restaurant (in Yangon%01-441 0129; comfortable but, unfortunately, like most
Strand Rd; dishes 50B; h10am-11pm) Dominating transport options in Myanmar the max-
the waterfront skyline, looking more like imum seating capacity is used only as a
an ancient temple than a modern restaurant suggested minimum. If you’re only one
and travel agency, the Moby Dick rightfully or two you may be offered a spot in the
draws in travellers who are in Myanmar for pilot house. Otherwise you’ll have to cram
only a few minutes and locals relaxing with yourself into the packed cabin. Movies and
a cold beer. There’s a few outdoor tables plus videos are played throughout the journey.
a bunch inside the modern and attractive Bring your own food and water. Boats leave
dining room. The menu includes Thai, Chi- Kawthoung around 5.30am.
nese, Bamar and a good selection of seafood; MFSL sails, on average, twice a month
the prawns are especially good. between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik and Kaw-
Smile Restaurant (%51691; Bogyoke Rd) This thoung, but travel is very slow and unreli-
Chinese-run place is up the hill from the able. The boats carry up to 400 passengers
jetty near Kawthoung Motel. An English- and take a minimum of two days to reach
language menu offers several seafood dishes, Kawthoung from Yangon (cabin US$150). © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
including a delicious crab curry. restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Li Li Flower Restaurant (Bogyoke Rd) Attached BUS
to the Honey Bear Hotel is a place with air- In 1993 the government began constructing
con that serves Thai, Bamar and Chinese a new Myeik–Kawthoung road that passes everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
food along with well-chilled beer. through Tanintharyi and Bokpyin. The the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
170 www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N MYA N MA R • • C l i m a t e 171
Northeastern CLIMATE
Parts of this region have the most pleasant
and more bearable the higher up you go; this
also makes the region favourable for opium
Myanmar climate in the country, attested to by the fact

that the British built several hill stations in
the area so that the colonial authorities could
cultivation. In the far north it gets downright
cold at night – the snowcapped mountains
are a dead giveaway for frigid temperatures.
escape from the oppressive heat of the low- Temperatures can also drop to near zero at
lands. Even during the hot season (March to night in the highlands around Inle Lake dur-
June) daytime temperatures become more ing December and January.
From the muddy crawl of the Ayeyarwady River to the rapids rolling down from the Hima-
laya, and then on to the watery vision of Inle Lake and the switchback roads that carve NORTHEASTERN MYANMAR 0
0
200 km
120 miles
through mountain passes, revealing hills and rice paddies on the other side, this geographi- TIBET
Hkakabo
cally and culturally diverse landlocked region is a world unto itself. Razi
(5889m)
Tezu INDIA
Large swaths of this territory, extending from Tibet in the north to Thailand in the south, CHINA
Ma
Dibrugarh
and encompassing Shan, Kachin and Kayah states, remain unexplored by foreigners, as
lih
ka
Ma
they’re officially off limits or simply too demanding to access for many. Putao
ykh
River
a
Jorhat
For the most part, people live in the valleys formed by the Ayeyarwady and Thanlwin H
River
Mon u
V ka
ng
al un
le g
Rivers and their tributaries, which divide Kachin and Shan States down the middle. Because y
n Tau
the northeast is home to so many different ethnic groups, including the Bamar, Shan and Tanai
Kumo
SAGAING KACHIN
Kachin, with significant populations of Wa, Padaung, Kokang, Atsi, Jinphaw, Lahsi, Lisu and DIVISION STATE
dozens of smaller minorities, travelling here is special just for the opportunity to socialise Hpakan
Myit-son
with your fellow passengers on those slow-moving boats, buses and trains crawling through Myitkyina
Moegaung
the interior of Myanmar. Indawgyi
Ayeyarwady Rive
Lake
Imphal
The best way to visit the multitude of ethnic groups is on foot, and the region abounds Moehnyin
with fantastic trekking destinations – Kalaw, Inle Lake, Hsipaw, Namhsan, Kengtung and Luxi
Paungbyin Naba Shwegu (Mangshi)
Putao just for starters.
r
Bhamo
Katha Ruili
31 36 Mu-se
Mawlaik Namkham CHINA
River
N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
S hweli 3
SHAN
Kalewa STATE
HIGHLIGHTS Namtu Hsenwi
Namhsan
Ye-U Kin-u Lashio
Mogok
You can hike around the trekking centre
Meko
SAGAING
DIVISION Gokteik Hsipaw
of Kalaw (p176) and anywhere else you Shwebo Viaduct
ng R
Kyaukme
445
so desire – anywhere, that is, that’s not Naunghkio Gokteik
iver
Monywa 3
off limits
Mandalay Pyin U Lwin
People live, work and sell things around Dulao
Kyaukse Mong La
Inle Lake (p181), a mountain-framed Myingyan
Padah-Lin 44
watery oasis Pakokku Ye-Ngan Cave
4
Kengtung
Ayeyarwardy (Kyaingtong)
River Bagan Mong Yaung
Drift down the heart of the north on the Pindaya Pindaya Loi-Mwe
iver
MAGWE Meiktila Thazi Caves
4 Nam Manyang gR
Ayeyarwady River (p217) as the country DIVISION Shwenyaung kon
Heho Me
1 Taunggyi Mong Hpayak
glides by Namhsan 2 Kalaw
r
Rive
Hsipaw Aungban Nyaungshwe
Tachileik
LAOS
(Yaunghwe)
Overnight stays and morning walks in MANDALAY
Inle Kakku
Xieng Kok
Pyin U Lwin Magwe
DIVISION Lake Mae Sai
Mong Tong
and around remote villages near Hsipaw in
Taungdwingyi
Thanlw
(p209), Namhsan (p213) or even remoter Kengtung 5
Chiang Rai
Kalaw 2 Pyinmana Loikaw
Kengtung (p200) Lawpita
Inle Lake
Charming colonial architecture in cool Myayde
Myohla KAYAH Mae Hong Son
RAKHAING STATE
climes awaits visitors to Pyin U Lwin STATE
(p204) Taungoo 5
KAYIN Chiang THAILAND
Pyay BAGO STATE Mai
172 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • T h a z i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • K a l a w 173
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES topography looks tame and organised, a restaurant and rest house are run by the The Thazi–Taungoo and Thazi–Mandalay
Although there is active insurgency from patchwork of farmland and unspoiled for- friendly Htun family. There are simple rooms routes both take from five to six hours; or-
national groups in the region, primarily in ests, whereas from the road to Kalaw (com- with two beds, mosquito nets and shared dinary-/1st-class seats cost US$5/15. De-
southern Shan State, foreigners are gener- ing from Thazi or Inle Lake) this Shan State shower and toilet, and two larger rooms parture times for Taungoo are the same as
ally prevented from visiting these areas. territory is formidably mountainous and with air-con and attached shower. The din- for Yangon.
rugged. It is perhaps the area in Myanmar ing room downstairs serves good Chinese, Trains go from Thazi to Kalaw at 9am
GETTING THERE & AWAY in which foreign tourists have the most free- Bamar and Indian Muslim food, including daily and take five hours to inch their way
Most travellers pick only one, or at the most dom and flexibility to tailor their itineraries – fresh yogurt. The proprietors also invite trav- through the mountain passes.
two, of the routes in the northeast because after all, it’s feasible to hike between all the ellers to bathe and rest upstairs while waiting There’s a US$1 fee to use the waiting
travel in these parts is time intensive. A few primary destinations. Once you arrive in for onward passage, and can arrange bus and room at the Thazi train station at night-
areas of the northeast are completely off the area, public transportation is fairly con- train tickets. If you arrive by train and are time, whereas during the day it’s free. For
limits to foreign travellers, including the venient, but extra time is necessary to truly carrying heavy baggage, it’s worth taking a information on the train to Shwenyaung,
land route between Taunggyi and Keng- appreciate everything, from the hill-tribe vil- horse cart or hiring a porter, as the rest house the junction for Inle Lake, see p181.
tung, all of Kayah State and the southern lages to the pastoral highlands and the watery is about 1km from the station.
Shan territory. Most of the towns are linked oasis of Inle Lake. KALAW
by both trains and buses, and while the Getting There & Away kel;
former may be more appealing they are also THAZI BUS %081
undoubtedly slower. Many travellers enter o;c–' The Thazi bus stop is a couple of hundred One of the few places in Myanmar to project a
the area by flying into Heho, the gateway to Many visitors begin or end their journey metres from the train station – just an backpacker vibe, Kalaw is 70km west of Taung-
the Inle Lake region. Taking a flight is the in Shan territory in this rail-junction town empty building and a patch of dirt. Buses gyi, about halfway between it and Thazi. The
only way to get to the Kengtung area. Flying about 65km west of the Shan State border in to Kalaw and Taunggyi cost K2500 (three town sits high on the western edge of the
is the only way to get to the Kengtung area. the Mandalay Division. It’s little more than hours) and K3500 (six hours) respectively; Shan Plateau, at an altitude of 1320m. Once
Last but certainly not least, the Ayeyarwady a place where people embark or disembark there are usually several departures from a popular hill station in British colonial days,
River cuts down the centre of the entire from the train when travelling to/from 7am to 11am daily. Kalaw’s population of Shan, Indians, Mus-
region and provides a good opportunity to Bagan or Inle Lake. On the other hand, it’s It’s possible to skip Meiktila when travel- lims, Bamar and Nepalis (Gurkhas retired
test out Myanmar’s local ferry industry. easy to bypass Thazi altogether by travelling ling between Thazi and Mandalay, but there from British military service) rubs shoulders
on express buses from Bagan to destina- are more buses to Mandalay that go through with fatigue-wearing soldiers and foreign
tions in Shan State and Yangon or simply Meiktila. The simple solution is to get to tourists drawn by the cool climate and rugged
THAZI TO INLE VIA by flying to Heho. Meiktila by pick-up, then wait for a bus to
Mandalay (see p289 for information on buses
mountain scenery. As recently as the 1970s
there were American missionaries teaching
KALAW Sleeping & Eating
Moon-Light Rest House (Thazi–Taunggyi Hwy; r with
to Mandalay). If you reserve a seat you can
wait for a Taunggyi–Mandalay bus to come
in the local schools. Because of the British
colonial and missionary heritage, many locals
This geographically diverse narrow corridor fan US$3, s/d with air-con US$8/15; a) On the top through Thazi; otherwise, the odds are that speak English. About 20,000 people live in
is probably the most popular tourist route floor of the Red Star Restaurant (dishes K700), this there won’t be any seats. A pick-up between and around Kalaw.
to Mandalay after Bagan. From the air the is Thazi’s only licensed lodging. Both the Meiktila and Thazi costs around K300. The size and breadth of the town is
deceptive since it sprawls up and over a
THAZI-TAUNGGYI CORRIDOR 0
0
20 km
12 miles
CAR number of hills – only a portion of it is vis-
To Lawksawk
Pick-ups leave for Kalaw (K2500) regularly ible from the market area. A large military
To Padah-Lin
To Mandalay Caves Kyong SHAN
(38km) throughout the day and into the early eve- base outside the town is an incongruous
r
(145km) 41
ve
STATE ning. It’s a windy, steep road, so for those presence in this sylvan setting of gnarled
Ri
43
g
Thazi
n
with low comfort thresholds it’s worth pay- pines and bamboo groves. The surround-
La
Pindaya
m
ing extra to sit in the front. Pick-ups all ing mountains cater to all tastes and fitness
Na
To
Meiktila Hlaingdet Pwehla Taunggyi
(20km);
4 the way to Shwenyaung – the junction for levels, from low-intensity half-day hikes to
Bagan
(140km)
Yinmanbin Shwenyaung
Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) and Inle Lake – four- or five-day trips to minority hill-tribe
and Taunggyi are infrequent. communities. The villages never really feel
ὅὅ
To
Kengtung
MANDALAY
Heho
Tam (456km) It’s possible to hire taxis in Thazi to take remote, which isn’t necessarily a negative,
Phaya
4 you to Kalaw (US$30), Nyaungshwe (US$45) but you may be surprised by the relatively
ὅὅ
DIVISION Aungban
5
Kalaw Nyaungshwe
or Bagan (US$40). high level of development. You’ll no doubt
ὅὅ
Kaung Daing
Ham Se be shown warm hospitality and offered tea
Pyawbwe Inle
Lake TRAIN and fruit harvested from the plantations
ὅὅ
Ywama Ordinary-/1st-class seats from Thazi to Yan- that cover the town’s steep slopes.
54 Kakku
gon cost US$9/32. There are four evening
Nam
Pilu Riv
e r
Kyauk trains (6pm, 7.15pm, 8.15pm and 9.40pm); Sights & Activities
Ta Lone
To Yangon To Loikaw (112km)
To Sankar
the earliest two are express and take 11 There are a few interesting temples to see
(431km)
hours or more. in town. Perched on the hill overlooking
174 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • K a l a w www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • K a l a w 175
KALAW 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
the Thazi–Taunggyi road is Thein Taung around. There is Internet access, but server
To Thazi (93km);
Paya. In the town centre is a glittering speed is extremely slow.
A Meiktila (115km)
B C D stupa (Buddhist religious monument), Golden Kalaw Inn (%50311; 66 Nat Sein Rd; s/d
Py
id
21
covered in gold-coloured mosaics, called US$4/6) The two-storey home next to the
Aung Chang Tha Zedi. Nearby is the dilapi- Golden Lilly is the Golden Kalaw, a friendly
au
ng
su To Inle Lake (63km);
Rd
1 (Un 39 2
Taunggyi (70km) dated Dhamma Yon, a two-storey temple; it’s hotel offering small, rather worn rooms
ion 4
Rd) 40 48 42
Rd (M
erchant Rd) not particularly interesting in itself, but with a nice 2nd-floor balcony. Eddie, the
28 Kone The
37 31 22 16 from upstairs you can get fair views of owner, leads informative treks.
26 24 45
15 46 the town, Dhamma Yanthi Paya (another Eastern Paradise Motel (%50087; 5 Thirimingalar
ha Rd
33 47
Thirimingalar Rd
7 29 810 43
temple) and the ruins of Hsu Taung Pye Paya, Rd; s US$3-15, d US$6-20) This friendly motel on
Ci
Merchant Rd
Aung Chant
rc
41 49
ul
Yatana Rd
25 To Shwenyaung
now a field of crumbling stupas behind the a quiet street has clean rooms. More expen-
Station Rd
ar
36
Zatila Rd
Zeigyo Rd
23 (52km)
Rd
Nat Sein Rd
12
35
38 34 Dhamma Yon. Just west of town, Nee Paya sive rooms have private bathrooms; some
Aung Thabye Rd (also called Hnin Paya) features a gold- have satellite TVs and baths.
14
13
lacquered bamboo Buddha. It’s about 20 Parami Motel (%50027; Merchant Rd; s US$3-6,
2 5
minutes away by car. The 300-year-old d US$6-10) A block from both the main road and
44
9
3 18 Shwe Oo Min Paya and Cave (h8am-8pm; admis- the market, Parami’s cheapest rooms are in
sion free), containing Buddha statues, is a an attached two-storey annexe. More expen-
17
Approximate Scale 30-minute walk southwest of town. The sive rooms have private bathrooms, though
monastery on the grounds is an especially these aren’t especially inviting either.
To Nee Paya
Bamasakya Rd
scenic spot. Pine Land Inn (%50026; Union Rd; r without/with
Train Station
(Bamboo Buddha;
500m) Less than 1km southeast of the Kalaw bathroom per person US$2/3) Without doubt, this is
Hotel is Christ the King Church, a Catholic the shabbiest place in town. That said, this
church under the supervision of Father two-storey guesthouse right on the main
3 1
20
Paul. (Until he passed away in 2000, Father road through Kalaw does have one nice
Angelo Di Meo also supervised the church; wood-floored room with private bathroom
he was based in Myanmar from 1931.) A on the 2nd floor. Others with shared bath-
stone grotto built behind the church is room are very basic. The bare concrete en-
reputed to have curative powers. Mass is trance serves as both lobby and uninspiring
30 held daily at 6.30am; and also at 8am and breakfast nook.
Oo Min
R d 4pm on Sunday.
To Shwe Oo MIDRANGE
Rd)
DRINKING
(Military Staff College Rd
Min Paya & Cave

Hi Snack & Drink........................41 C2 Sleeping New Shine Hotel (%50028; [email protected]
Sit U See Thakka Tho
4 Lachme Tea House.....................42 C1

6 Because of its natural appeal to the back- .mm; 21 Union Rd; s US$18-24, d US$24-36) These two
Mi Thazu...................................43 D1
Myint Myat Café.......................44 C2 packer set, Kalaw is one of the few places modern buildings have a mix of rooms –
Royal Tea Garden.......................45 C1
Tet Nay Win Teahouse...............46 C1 in Myanmar with guesthouses to suit them. some motel-style, some with more char-
There are also several more modern ho- acter; some wicker, some tile. All rooms
INFORMATION 32 ENTERTAINMENT
Army Hospital..............................1 B3 Cinema......................................47 C1 tels catering to tour groups on or close to have private bathroom, while more expen-
Hospital........................................2 C1
TRANSPORT
the main road, and several more on the sive rooms have satellite TV and bathtub as
Police Station...............................3 C2
Post Office....................................4 B1 27 Buses to Bagan, Yangon & outskirts of town. The main road goes by well. There’s a nice brick-walled basement
Trunk Call Station
(Telephone Office)................. 5 C2
Mandalay...............................48 C1
Buses to Taunggyi......................49 C2
several names, including Union Rd (Pyi- breakfast room, too.
SLEEPING daungsu Rd) and Thazi–Taunggyi Hwy. Winner Hotel Kalaw (%50025; Union Rd; s/d
5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dream Villa Motel Kalaw...........23 B2
Air-con is superfluous in the cool mountain US$10/20; i) On the main road, the Winner,
Anglican Church..........................6 B4 Eastern Paradise Motel................24 B1
Aung Chan Naung Zedi................7 B1 Golden Kalaw Inn.......................25 B2 air. During the low season (May to Octo- a three-storey Chinese-style hotel, has clean,
Aung Chang Tha Zedi..................8 C1 Golden Lilly Guest House............26 B1
ber) discounts are widely available. no-frills rooms. The top-floor breakfast room
Te
Baptist Church..............................9 B2 Kalaw Hotel................................27 B5

kk
has good views of town, and the owner can

ath
Central Market...........................10 C1 New Shine Hotel.........................28 B1

oR
Christ the King Church.............. 11 D6 Parami Motel..............................29 C1

BUDGET help organise treks to villages in the area.
d(
Dhamma Yon.............................12 C2 Pine Hill Resort Hotel.................30 B4

Un
Hsu Taung Pye Paya................(see 14) Pine Land Inn.............................31 C1 Golden Lilly Guest House (%50108; goldenlilly@ Pine View Inn (%50185; Tekkatho Rd; s/d US$10/15)
ive
rsi
Mosque.....................................13 C2 Pine View Inn.............................32 B4

myanmar.com.mm; 5/88 Nat Sein Rd; s/d US$3/6; i) Overlooking a quiet street outside town,
ty
Myoma Kyaung.........................14 C2 Winner Hotel Kalaw...................33 C1 11

Rd
Family owned and operated, this guest- near the Kalaw Hotel, this inn has a row
)
Royal Tribal Development

Society Shop.........................15 C1 EATING
Sam Trekking Guide...................16 C1 Everest Nepali Food Centre........34 C2
19 house is the best value in town. It has cosy of spacious rooms with hot-water shower,
6 School........................................17 A2 Golden Wing Restaurant............35 C2 and warm wood-finished rooms, each with desk and plenty of light. A tasty Bamar or
School........................................18 C2 Htin Yu Myaing Restaurant........36 C2
School....................................... 19 C6 Myanmar Flowers Restaurant.....37 B1 private bathroom. The owner’s brother, Western breakfast is included, along with
Sports Field................................20 C3
Thein Taung Paya......................21 C1
Sam’s Family Restaurant............38
Thirigayhar Restaurant................39
C2
B1
Robin, is a gentle and knowledgeable guide a good view.
Top Trekking Guide....................22 C1 Thu Maung Restaurant..............40 C1 who can explain the medicinal and nutri- Dream Villa Motel Kalaw (%50144; 5 Zatila Rd;
tional value of every berry, insect and leaf s/d US$20/24, larger s/d US$30/36) A bit overpriced
176 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • K a l a w www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • K a l a w 177
0 3 km
TREKKING AROUND KALAW
KALAW AREA TREKKING ROUTES 0 2 miles
To Inle
Whether it’s a short day hike or a five-day journey, trekking is the main reason to come to Kalaw. Lake
The range of territory open to foreigners seems to be expanding, and local guides are willing
Chaung
Taung Pe Ah Lai
Gone Shwe
to tailor itineraries to particular demands. With that said, certain routes get a fair bit of traffic Min Bon
To Aungban
during the tourist high season and it’s not unusual to find yourself following in the well-trod Shwe Min
Magwe
(8km);
Bon Paya Shwenyaung
footsteps of another group. (43km)
N
To Thazi
The plateau near Kalaw is inhabited by people of the Palaung and Pa-O (Black Karen) tribes.
ga
(75km)
Ma
Intha, Shan, Taungthu, Taung-yo, Danu, Kayah, Danaw and Bamar people occupy the mountains
t
Kalaw
Ch
au
to the north and east. Development in the form of running water and electricity is coming
ng
slowly but sporadically to villages in the area, and living conditions on the whole are not
as primitive as some might expect, thanks to UN- and government-sponsored projects. Con- Yar Thait (Palaung)
tinued exposure to foreigners walking the mountain footpaths or sleeping in village homes
Tayaw (Palaung)
has introduced a small element of the consumer economy in the form of children selling hats,
longyi (sarong-style lower garments) and bags, most made locally but some imported strictly
for the tourist trade.
Viewpoint
Quality health care is a concern, but it’s better to give small cash gifts to the village health
fund rather than handing out medicines. Your guide will know what’s appropriate and what’s
not. Balloons, pencils, paper notebooks and ballpoint pens are also welcome. Usually the sayadaw
(chief abbot) of the village monastery, or the village head man, handles such donations. Village Kalaw
Myin Saing
Gone
Hin Kha Gone Reservoir Myin Daik
elders prefer that any gifts intended for children be given to an adult rather than directly to the (Palaung) Myin Daik Train Station
(Danu)
children, as (like children everywhere) they are sharing challenged. Tribespeople come into town
on Kalaw’s market day, which comes around every five days.
Pan Tin
Several nearby villages, such as Yar Thait and Tayaw, can be visited in half-day or whole-day Gone
hikes. By and large the terrain isn’t difficult – mostly it’s a well-trodden dirt path over gentle
Approximate Scale
slopes. Some guides lead multiday trips; the two- to three-day trip (the duration depends on how
much you want to exert yourself ) to Inle Lake is easily the most popular. It's become standard
Inn Gaung
to have your heavy baggage transported to a hotel in Nyaungshwe for no extra charge, so you
need only carry very little. These trips commonly end in the hot springs near Kaung Daing on the
western shore of Inle Lake, before a boat transports the group to Nyaungshwe. Another popular for Kalaw, the Dream Villa is nevertheless sive and tasty fried-vegetable dishes and
multiday hike is from Kalaw to Pindaya, with car transport back. an attractive building, a few blocks from the standard Chinese and Bamar meat dishes
Licensed guides in Kalaw generally charge US$4 to US$6 for a day hike, and US$5 to US$8 main thoroughfare. There’s a small, elegant were on offer, though the menu was in an
per day for overnight treks. The cost generally includes food and lodging. Expect to hike for at lobby with satellite TV, and the carpeted experimental phase. Service was extremely
least six hours a day and cover about 15km. rooms are maintained with care. attentive, to the point that an involun-
One advantage of overnight treks is that by evening people are back home in the village after Pine Hill Resort Hotel (%50078; fax 579 640; 151 tary flinch by one of the diners invariably
spending a day tending the fields. Lodging is usually in long houses and occasionally in kyaung Oo Min Rd; bungalows s/d/tr US$36/42/67) This resort brought a waiter to the table. Candlelight
(Burmese Buddhist monasteries). Be prepared for the lingering smoke of long-house cooking around 1km from the town centre has 32 and white tablecloths gave the place a ro-
fires. On the plus side, it keeps mosquitoes to a minimum. bungalow-style wood-panelled rooms with mantic and elegant vibe.
Although it’s not part of the public record, perhaps because it’s not officially approved, it may TVs and private bathrooms. The prefabri- Thirigayhar Restaurant (Seven Sisters; %50216;
be possible to stay overnight at the Viewpoint, a guesthouse beside a beautifully scenic spot cated look of the place is a bit of a shame, Union Rd; dishes K2000; h till 10pm) The most
atop a mountain. Most groups on day hikes stop here for lunch. Owned and operated by a Nepali as the location overlooking the surrounding charming place to eat in Kalaw, this Shan-
family, Viewpoint’s accommodation is bare bones – no electricity, no running water – but it’s hills is lovely. The hotel restaurant serves Chinese-Indian restaurant is in a distinctive
extremely peaceful. The owner, Motie, also cooks up fantastic meals (assorted vegetable curries very good Bamar and Indian dishes. cottage on the main road. It serves a few
and rice). If you can arrange it, for around K1500 per person per day you get a foam bed with Those wishing to avoid any government- Western dishes, but the soups are especially
plenty of blankets, and three meals. owned hotel should bypass the Kalaw Hotel, tasty. It often caters to package-tour groups,
All the licensed trekking guides in Kalaw can provide sleeping bags and mosquito nets. which is set well behind the town. which explains the relatively high prices.
Hikers need to be prepared with good shoes and warm clothing for the cool evenings. Trek- Everest Nepali Food Centre (Aung Chantha Rd;
king goes on year round, but expect muddy conditions during the rainy season (May/June Eating dishes K1000) Two blocks from the main road
to November). For a town this size, Kalaw has an inordi- and just across from Sam’s, Everest is a fa-
Staff at many of the hotels (eg Robin from the Golden Lilly, Eddie from the Golden Kalaw Inn) nate number of interesting eating options, vourite as much for its backpacker feel as for
and restaurants (eg the Everest Nepali Food Centre) can act as guides; a good number of Yangon- some with an Indian or Nepali flavour, and its tasty and reasonably priced curries, fresh
based travel agencies can also arrange guides. It’s quite easy, though, to simply show up in Kalaw several teashops. juices and chapatis. Service tends to be slow,
and make all the arrangements to leave the next day. Several reliable trekking-guide services Sam’s Family Restaurant (vegetable dishes K500) but a book and a shake help pass the time.
operate from small offices along the main road through Kalaw, just north of the market. We were lucky enough to experience Sam’s Thu Maung Restaurant (Union Rd; dishes K1500)
inaugural meal. An assortment of inexpen- The Thu Maung, in a two-storey building on
178 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • Au n g b a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • Au n g b a n 179
the main road, looks more established than to US$25. For information on travel to region’s more interesting markets, which It’s a long walk from the lake to the foot
other places in town – maybe it’s the air Aungban and Pindaya, see p180. sells everything from pancake-like snacks of the cliff containing the caves; if you’ve
of authority given off by its many official- It’s possible to take the train from Thazi to gnarled fish and cooked snakes. chartered a jeep or car from Kalaw or
looking patrons. It does an above-average or Shwenyaung to Kalaw; it takes around 4½ Pindaya itself is a centre for the Burmese- Taunggyi, make sure that you’re driven all
chicken and cashews. hours from either. The fare is US$3. Either speaking Taung-yo people. The town’s sym- the way up to the cliff. Travel from town to
Myanmar Flowers Restaurant (chicken dishes way, it’s a scenic, if slow, trip. Three trains bol is a pin-gu (spider). According to leg- the foot of the cliffs costs K1000 by horse
K1500) This restaurant, near the Aung Chang leave Kalaw for Shwenyaung at 8.30am, end, seven princesses bathing in the lake cart. A 200-step stairway leads to the cave
Naung Zedi, four blocks west of the market, 10.45am and 3pm daily. took refuge in the caves during a storm, and entrance, or you can take the new lift to the
has a rock-and-roll flavour inside – well, To return to Yangon, Mandalay or Bagan were imprisoned by a giant spider. Lucky entrance for K100.
guitars decorate the walls and there’s a it’s possible to book a seat on one of the for them, a prince strolling nearby heard From a temple complex built along the
small stage – and outdoor seating in good Taunggyi express buses with air-con (about their pleas for help, killed the spider and front of the ridge you can view nearby
weather. It offers Bamar, Chinese, Indian K5000 for each destination). There’s also the freed them from the cave. Boutalake Lake and the ruins of Shwe Oo Min
and Western set menus (K2500), and does usual Mandalay–Yangon train connection Local handicrafts include Shan paper and Paya, a cluster of low stupas just below the
excellent spring rolls. via Thazi (see p366 and p367). parasols made from mulberry bark. There ridge.
Also recommended are Htin Yu Myaing are two paper- and umbrella-making workshops
(Pineland) Restaurant (dishes K1000), a block south AUNGBAN a few minutes’ drive from the cave entrance. PADAH-LIN CAVES
of the central market, which serves good ea;='pn'" One of these workshops, Nam Cherry, de- ¨pd:"l='"gU
Chinese and Bamar fare; and the Golden This small highway town is a transport junc- monstrates the step-by-step process and Northwest of Pindaya, near the village of
Wing Restaurant, just south of Merchant tion for cargo and passengers travelling be- sells hand-painted umbrellas (US$1) among Ye-Ngan, is the most important prehis-
Rd, which grills up meats for locals. tween Thazi and Taunggyi, north to Pindaya other interesting objects. Try your hand at a toric site in Myanmar: the Padah-Lin Caves
or south to Loikaw, the capital of Kayah small pottery workshop down a side road near (also known as Badalin, or Badut Hlaing –
Drinking State. As such, Aungban’s main function is the Pindaya Inle Inn for US$3. Chameleon Cave). The interior of one of the
Hi Snack & Drink (htill late) Down a bottle of to feed and fuel; among Shan State truck Day and overnight treks to surrounding caves is decorated with the remains of very
beer with the locals in this narrow little all- drivers it’s also infamous for its brothels. Danu, Pa-O, Palaung and Taung-yo villages old paintings – estimates extend to 11,000
wood bar a block west of the market. Im- As elsewhere in Myanmar, AIDS is a seri- can be organised at the Golden Cave (p180) years – of animal and human subjects, not
promptu guitar concerts are not uncommon. ous concern. or Conqueror Hotel (p180) for about US$10 unlike Neolithic cave paintings in Europe.
Myint Myat Café (Zeigyo Rd) Next to the po- There is little of substance to the town per person per day. Some visitors reckon that these caves, which
lice station, on the road leading south from itself, except when the market is held (every were discovered in 1969, are more atmos-
town, this café is popular with students and five days). For seekers of Buddhist wisdom, Sights pheric than the heavily touristed Pindaya
soldiers from the nearby base. the Taungpulu Meditation Monastery is a little PINDAYA CAVES Caves.
Most teashops in town are Nepali op- east of town off the highway. p='"tygU To get here you’ll have to charter a 4WD
erated, and serve chapati, tea and raksi A strange and somewhat kitschy mix of the from the direction of Mandalay or from
(Nepali-style home-made liquor). Teashops Getting There & Away artificial and natural and the commercial southern Shan State. Coming from the
near the market: See p180 for information on transport from and holy, the Pindaya Caves, in a limestone south, a visit to the caves can be added to
Lachme Teahouse (Merchant Rd) Pindaya and Kalaw to Aungban. If you’re ridge overlooking the lake, are announced a Pindaya trip from Kalaw or Taunggyi for
Mi Thazu (Merchant Rd) heading east to Nyaungshwe, it’s possible for miles around by the templelike struc- about an extra K5000 per vehicle. From Ye-
Royal Tea Garden (Station Rd) to catch one of the many rickety minibuses tures covering the ramp and lift to the Ngan a rough track leads several kilometres
Tet Nay Win Teahouse (Zeigyo Rd) that pass through Aungban on their way to entrance. Once inside it’s difficult not to southwest to Yebok village. The two caves are
Taunggyi (K1500). succumb to Buddha fatigue, as over 8000 a little over 1km west of Yebok on a foot-
Getting There & Away Buddha images – made from alabaster, teak, path. If coming from Mandalay, take the
Daily buses from Yangon to Kalaw (K7000, PINDAYA marble, brick, lacquer and cement – have turn-off 81km south of Mandalay near the
15 hours) leave from Yangon’s Highway p='"ty been arranged over the centuries to form a town of Kume on the Yangon–Mandalay
bus terminal. Yangon-bound buses depart- %081 sea of serene faces in the labyrinthine cave Hwy. Drive east for around 35km until you
ing from Taunggyi pass through Kalaw in The road north from Aungban to Pindaya chambers. Small plaques below most ad- reach the Kinda Dam. After a short boat
the evening. passes through a bucolic pastoral setting vertise the names and nationalities of the ride to the other side of the dam, you’ll ap-
Buses for Kalaw (around K2500) leave that’s like a Whistler landscape – the per- donors. proach the caves along a jungle trail.
Thazi in the morning. Taunggyi-bound fect middle American or European coun- Some of the smaller side chambers are
buses from either Meiktila or Bagan pass tryside. You’ll pass groups of Myanmar accessible only on hands and knees, and Festivals & Events
through Kalaw, though you may have to people wearing wide-brimmed sun hats you may come across people practising Beginning on the full moon of Tabaung
pay the full fare to the final destination. and hunched over rice and potato fields, meditation. Although many areas within (February/March), Pindaya hosts a colourful
Travel time is about three hours. and the small Pa-O and Danu villages of the caves are illuminated by electric lights, paya pwe (pagoda festival) at Shwe Oo Min.
A bus from Shwenyaung (the junction Pwehla and Ji-Chanzi. Easily visited from take care on the slippery paths. In one cor-
for Inle Lake) to Kalaw takes three hours Kalaw on a day trip, Pindaya is best known ner of the cave stand three ‘perspiring Bud- Sleeping
and costs K3000. To charter a vehicle to ei- for its Buddha-filled limestone caves, its dhas’ – sitting images that stay wet because There are several nice places to stay in
ther Thazi or Shwenyaung will cost US$20 picturesque Boutalake Lake and one of the of condensation in the damp cave. Pindaya, though accommodation in both
180 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W • • H e h o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E 181
Kalaw and Nyaungshwe is less expensive the market are U Aseik, Tip Top Restaurant hop off their Taunggyi-bound bus or pick-
and generally better value.
Golden Cave Hotel (%40227; s US$15-25, d US$20-
and Teik Sein Restaurant. up in order to catch a taxi to Nyaungshwe.
There’s no longer any accommodation in
INLE LAKE
30) Extremely friendly and warm, the Gold- Getting There & Away Shwenyaung for foreigners, but then again a='"el"aui='
en Cave’s modest reception and breakfast From Kalaw it costs K150 to get to Aungban there’s no reason to spend the night here. Inle Lake is 22km long, roughly 11km wide,
area belies the charm of the wooden rooms and another K550 to get to Pindaya by public The Pan Za Lat Teashop, situated right at 875m above sea level and a complete mi-
in the two-storey annexe. All rooms have transport. It can be difficult to find buses or the Heho-Nyaungshwe-Taunggyi junction, rage. Facts notwithstanding, when you first
private balconies, some with views of the pick-ups later in the day, especially between is a convenient place to wait for transport, encounter the lake – its placid flatness in
cave entrance. More expensive rooms have Aungban and Pindaya, so leave early in the sip some tea and sort out your next move stark contrast to the peaks on either side – it
a TV and a fridge. This is the best place to morning and allow a whole day for the trip. away from the touts, who’ll descend upon seems like a real-life Atlantis where the plug
arrange treks to nearby villages. The first pick-up from Pindaya to Aungban you as soon as you alight from the bus. has been partially pulled and you must hop
Pindaya Inle Inn (%448 1311, in Yangon %01- leaves from the market area at 6am. There’s in a boat to gossip with a neighbour only a
211 226; Mahabandoola Rd; s/d US$35/40, chalets US$70; one bus per day from Taunggyi to Pindaya Getting There & Away few metres away. The lakeshore and lake is-
i) The first hotel you see when you enter (K1500), at noon; the same bus travels in the CAR, PICK-UP & TAXI lands are home to 17 villages on stilts, which
Pindaya from the south, this inn isn’t as opposite direction at 8am the next day. Taxis ply the 11km road between Shwenya- are mostly inhabited by the Intha people.
conveniently located as the other hotels, It’s much more convenient to hire a car ung and Nyaungshwe (K4000). If it’s late – The lake doesn’t really have a shoreline –
but its posh brick-and-stone little chalets, and driver in Kalaw for about US$15 to after 6pm – drivers in Shwenyaung charge you can’t walk directly around it. The water
with fireplaces, desks, satellite TV and large US$20 to make the day trip to Pindaya. You relatively extortionate prices. It’s possible to gets shallower and the tangled hyacinths
bathrooms, are delightful. Each has a quaint can also hire a car to take you from Kalaw find a freelancer on a motorcycle for a cheaper and marsh paddies get denser until the ob-
porch arranged around a small garden. It’s to Pindaya, have it wait for a couple of hours rate (though no helmets are provided). stacle course becomes unnavigable and you
owned and operated by Inle Princess Resort while you take in the caves and have lunch in From Nyaungshwe, one option is to wait reach solid land.
on Inle Lake. town, and then continue on to Nyaungshwe by the side of the road near the monument Like the Shan, Mon and Bamar, the Intha
Conqueror Hotel (%448 1211, in Yangon %01- and Inle Lake. This should cost about US$30 just north of the market. Some empty taxis are Buddhist; there are around 100 Buddhist
256 623; www.conquerorhotel.com; s/d US$50/60; or the kyat equivalent for the whole day. on their way to collect passengers with res- kyaung around the lake and perhaps 1000
is) These large bamboo bungalows with It’s also possible to do the trip in the ervations in Shwenyaung are willing to pick stupas. The Inle style of religious archi-
satellite TV and private porches are laid reverse direction or as a long day trip out of up foreign tourists for only K500 because tecture and Buddhist sculpture is strongly
out in attractive, landscaped grounds. Some Nyaungshwe. The actual road time is about it’s just extra money – they’re already going Shan-influenced.
bungalows have cave views. The large pa- 1½ hours from Kalaw to Pindaya, and three in your direction. The hard-working Intha are famous for
vilion building houses a restaurant serving hours or more from Pindaya to Nyaung- Pick-ups ferry passengers back and forth propelling their flat-bottomed boats by
Chinese and Bamar cuisine. In the Singong shwe. Add waiting time (which can be con- between Shwenyaung and Nyaungshwe standing at the stern on one leg and wrap-
Quarter of town, the hotel caters largely to siderable) in Aungban and Shwenyaung if (K300) from 5am to around 4pm, though ping the other leg around the oar. This
tour groups. Treks can be arranged here. you go by public transport. they leave only when full. strange leg-rowing technique offers relief
Myit Phyar Zaw Gji Hotel (in Taunggyi%22158; 317 to the arms – which are also used for row-
Zaytan Quarter; s/d US$12/20) Conveniently located HEHO TRAIN ing – during the long paddles from one end
next to the market, this modern-looking but hEhui" You can get all the way to Shwenyaung by of the lake to another. It also enables the
rather nondescript three-storey hotel has The airstrip north of Heho is the gateway train, but it’s time-consuming. From Yan- rower to better see the kyun myaw (float-
16 standard rooms with attached hot-water for many to the Inle Lake and Kalaw area. gon or Mandalay the programme would be ing islands) and beda (water hyacinth). It’s
bathroom, and five larger superior rooms About halfway between Aungban and Shwe- to take one of the Yangon–Mandalay ex- sometimes necessary to stand up to plot a
with fridge. Some have good views of Bouta- nyaung, which is the junction for the road press trains and disembark at Thazi. See path around the obstacles – and to spot fish.
lake Lake right across the street. The dining south to Nyaungshwe and Inle Lake, Heho p367 for timetable details. Although diesel motors are becoming more
room serves mostly Chinese food. itself is just another highway town. Air The train from Thazi to Shwenyaung and more common, leg rowers, fully aware
Mandalay, Yangon Airways and Myanma (ordinary/1st class US$4/9, eight to nine of their tourist-poster appeal, will immedi-
Eating Airways fly regularly between Yangon, hours) is rather slow, but the route is very ately switch from conventional rowing to the
In addition to the restaurants mentioned Mandalay and Heho; newcomer Bagan Air picturesque, and having the run of a carriage leg-power method upon sighting a boatload
below, you can fill up on snacks, both exotic offers direct flights from Bagan (p187). can be more comfortable than sitting in the of camera-carrying foreigners.
and mundane, in the market. Heho has a dusty market area just off the back of a cramped pick-up, especially on The entire lake region is contained in the
Just across the street from the market, Kyan highway that hosts the largest of the five-day mountain curves. It’s a spectacular journey municipal area of Nyaungshwe and sup-
Lite Restaurant (dishes K1000) has long banquet- markets in the southern area of Shan State. through the Shan Mountains and local vil- ports a population of 130,000 comprising
style tables and an English menu featuring lages, on a partially zigzagging railway line. Intha, Shan, Pa-O (Taungthu), Taung-yo,
good Chinese fare. Not far from the market, SHWENYAUNG A train leaves Thazi at 9am and arrives Danu, Kayah, Danaw and Bamar people.
on the road leading to the cave, is the sur- er¯e–;=' in Shwenyaung between 5pm and 6pm. The township of the same name sits north
prisingly modern Happy Tea House, which Shwenyaung is the transfer point for those Three trains leave Shwenyaung (at 8.30am, of the lake and is accessed by road from
has snacks, tea and coffee. leaving Nyaungshwe to catch a bus to Kalaw, 10.30am and 2pm; US$4) and arrive in Thazi Shwenyaung or from the lake via a long,
Other restaurants serving inexpensive Mandalay, Bagan or Yangon. It’s also where around nine hours later. You can also disem- narrow channel. Around 70,000 people live
Bamar and Shan food within a few blocks of most travellers heading to Nyaungshwe must bark in Kalaw from any of these trains. on the shores and islands of the lake.
182 I N L E L A K E • • H i s t o r y & C u l t u re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E • • I n f o r m a t i o n 183
The industrious villagers inhabiting the lages (especially Ywama and Heya at the thought to have migrated to this area from comfortable guesthouses and restaurants
lake region support themselves by growing a southern end of Inle Lake) weave Shan-style Dawei on the Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) pe- specialising in spaghetti and pancakes.
wide variety of flowers, vegetables and fruit shoulder bags and silk Zinme (Chiang Mai- ninsula in southern Myanmar.
year round. They also grow rice, especially at style) longyi on wooden hand looms. Using According to one story, two brothers Information
the northern end of the lake around Nyaung- raw silk from China, these weavers produce from Dawei came to Nyaungshwe in 1359 Yangon Airways and Air Mandalay have a
shwe. Many of these crops are cultivated on more silk garments than anywhere in the to serve a Nyaungshwe sao pha (‘sky lord’, small office on Yone Gyi Rd, and virtually
floating islands, where marsh, soil and water country apart from Amarapura. When they a hereditary chieftain of the Shan people). every guesthouse can help arrange flights
hyacinths have combined to form incred- aren’t busy fishing or farming, the men of The latter was so pleased with the hard- and bus tickets. Apart from the options
ibly fertile solid masses that are staked to Inle produce silver and brassware as well as working demeanour of the Dawei brothers listed below, several hotels offer Internet
the lake bottom with bamboo poles. Among pottery and lacquerware. that he asked them to invite 36 more fam- access to guests.
the islands and peninsulas thus formed is During January and February the nights ilies from Dawei; purportedly, all the Intha Century Ticket Retail & Wholesale Centre
a network of canals that provide the main and mornings in the lake area are cold, so around Inle Lake are descended from these (%29061; Yone Gyi Rd) This recommended, friendly
avenues of transportation for the Intha. bring socks and a sweater. migrant families. Another theory says that place can arrange boating excursions, hikes and trips to
Using cone-shaped nets stretched tautly the Intha migrated from the Mon region in other destinations, as well as onward transportation.
over wood and bamboo frames, Intha fish- HISTORY & CULTURE the 18th century to avoid wars between the Comet Travel & Internet Café (%29126; inlay
ermen harvest nga-hpein (a type of carp) Both culturally and linguistically separate Thais and the Bamar. [email protected]; Yone Gyi Rd). An
and other kinds of fish. Women in the vil- from their Shan neighbours, the Intha are alternative to Century Ticket and also recommended. Has
INFORMATION a few computers with reliable Internet connections.
INLE LAKE 0
0
4 km
2 miles
You pay the compulsory entry fee (US$3) to Inle Blooms Global Online Information Bar
To To
enter the Inle Lake zone at Myanmar Travels & (Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; per hr K3000; h9am-midnight) A
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Taunggyi
(30km) Bawrithat Shwenyaung
(11km)
Tours (MTT; Chaung Rd, Nyaungshwe; h7am-4pm) or veritable oasis for the email starved. There are five computers,
To Heho (8km);
Kalaw (50km);
Shwe Yan Pyay
Nyaungshwe at one of the hotels or guesthouses around a nice coffee shop and occasional Hotmail access.
Na Baung
Pindaya (68km);
Thazi (142km) Paung Pane
Nat Shrine
Kyaukhpyugyi Paya
town. Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Chaung (Strand) Rd)
Nanthe Hti Han Swe The same office that collects tourists’ dollars (US$3) for
Trekking
Taung Bo Gyi
Nyaung Wan Sizon Kyauk Daing
FESTIVALS & EVENTS the lake also provides maps of the area and sometimes the
Route
September and October are among the best final word regarding flight schedules and fares.
Hot Spring Naung
Loi Kaw
To Kalaw Tehe
Kham
Naung Ka
Approximate Scale
times of the year to visit Inle Lake. The cere-
(50km) Kaung Daing Hupin Hotel
In Oo
monial Phaung Daw Oo (see p190), in which Sights & Activities
Inle Khaung Inle Princess Resort
Trekking Daing Village four golden Buddha images are ferried MUSEUM OF SHAN CHIEFS
Mo
Route Resort Pon Tae Pon Swe Pan

around the lake in a royal barge, lasts for Housed in a large teak-and-brick mansion
un
Lin Kin Maing Thauk Wong ya

tai
Kanywa
Loilem almost three weeks in late September or in the northeastern part of town, this mu-
nR
Inleh Bo Teh
early October. It’s closely followed by Thad- seum (Yaunghwe Haw Museum; Third St; admission US$2;
ang
Pwe Sar Kone

ingyut, when the Intha and the Shan dress
e
Ine Ne h9.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) was the haw (palace)

Kyay Sar Kone Pebin Inywa Kan Tan
Tha Pye Gone
Shanywa
Inle
in new clothes and fervently celebrate the of the 33rd and last Shan sao pha, Sao Shwe
Naung Lee
Lake Thitseinbin end of Waso (Buddhist Lent). They are so Thaike. Thaike, who became the first presi-
Trail
ὅὅ
Tha Le Oo Ham Pho
Thandaung
Nga Hpe
Kela
religious that it’s not unusual for families dent of Myanmar in 1948, was imprisoned
Chaung
Walking
Golden Island Ham Se to spend all of their meagre savings during when Ne Win came to power (see p42) and
ὅὅ
Cottages 2
this one annual event. died in jail. The museum is the best surviv-
Zayatkyi
Nyaung
Win Kyaung ing example of a Shan-style palace since the
ὅὅ
Dag Daw Oo
Tone Lè Ywama Shwe Inn Tha Ka Taung
Hto
Ti Htat
NYAUNGSHWE 1991 demolition of the haw sao pha (Shan
(Floating Market) Floating Resort
Ingyingon Moe e–;='er¯ lord’s palace) in Kengtung. Many of the
Nyaung Tha Lay Kaung Mai Law
Ohak Nam Hu
Phaung Ma Gyi Gone
Laid-back Nyaungshwe’s choice accommo- rooms contain displays of Shan furniture and
Indein Daw Oo Hti Nè Kakku dation and diverse activities – from leisurely royal costumes. Most impressive is the huge
Kyibawkon Paya Dat Gyi Naung Kae
Shwe Inn
Thein
Yetha Nam Pan
Golden Island Kon Lon
Naung Ya Sein boat rides to strenuous hikes – combine to teak-floored throne-and-audience hall in the
throw off the itineraries of many travel- north wing, behind the front building.
In Paw Kone Cottages 1
U Daung Jay Paw (Silk Weavers)
Kyaung & Khone
Kan Ta Pan Hti Plun lers who extend their stays here. During the
Meditation Naung Taw
tourist high season, Nyaungshwe (Golden SHRINES, MONASTERIES & STUPAS
Maing Pyo
Centre Helon Kyauk Ta Lone
Saug Pho Banyan Tree, also called Yaungwhe), which The oldest temple in town, Yadana Man Aung
Hsisone is 3.5km from the northern end of the lake, Paya, is worth visiting for its unique step-
Magyizeik can seem overrun with foreigners. This isn’t spired stupa. Look for the ‘you will be old’
necessarily a bad thing for the many locals and ‘you will be sick’ figures in glass cases
who profit from their presence. Besides in one of the shrine buildings.
Kalaw, this town is one of the few places in There are several good-sized monasteries
Chaing Kham
Taung Tho the country to exude a backpacker vibe, evi- in the central and southeastern parts of town,
Kyaung To Sankar; Kyauk Taung
denced by the number of inexpensive but including Kan Gyi Kyaung, Shwe Gu Kyaung and
184 I N L E L A K E • • N y a u n g s h w e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E • • N y a u n g s h w e 185
NYAUNGSHWE 0
0
100 m
0.1 miles
A short walk south of town along the
eastern side of the main channel leads to the WARNING
To Shwe Yaunghwe
A B Kyaung (1km); C D small but atmospheric ruins of Kyaukhpyugyi It’s not unusual for taxi drivers and other
Shwenyaung (11km);
64 Taunggyi (31km);
Heho (35km); Airport (35km);
Paya, next to the Intha village of Nanthe. Sur- self-appointed guides to direct you away
Kalaw (64km); Kakku (73km) rounded by brick-and-stucco devas (celes- from the hotel you request and take you to
Kyauktein Rd
18
17 40
1
47 Third St
tial beings), chinthe (half-lion, half-dragon the hotel where they receive a commission.
1 59
42
guardian deities) and stupas is a huge sitting In order to convince you that they only have
High
63
51 Buddha, said to be 700 years old. your happiness in mind, they’ll try some
Ὀ
School
56
Canal
33 14 common excuses: the owner died, the hotel
23
35 55 22 MINGALA MARKET closed, it has a new owner and is now dirty
60 58
To Hot
Springs
44 9
Yone Gyi Rd
49 34
The main municipal zei (market), near the etc. Be firm, and whatever you do, check in
61
45
65 2 11
38
town’s northern entrance, is busiest in the yourself. Otherwise you’ll probably be pay-
26
morning, when vendors congregate to sell ing a few extra bucks for commission.
Rd
16 28
36
54 43 School
Main
their wares. In addition to mountains of
2 48
46
52 30 Phaungdaw Seiq Rd
fresh produce, Shan noodles and other local
62 53
25
20
products, there are a few stalls selling pottery Teakwood Guest House (%29250; teakwoodhtl@
l
YWA 3 24 27
ana
THA
Middle
School
and textiles. myanmar.com.mm; s US$4-10, d US$9-20; i) This guest-
Li C
12 8 13 house three blocks east of the canal has some
ng
21
7 32 57
BOAT TRIPS of the most attractive rooms in the area. The
Mo
Sports
10
Field 37
Phaungdawpyan Rd Nyaungshwe is the place where most vis- five or so in the new annexe have comfortable
(Main Canal)
39
(Strand Rd)
Middle
29 50
School
15 itors arrange boat trips around the lake. For beds and wooden furnishings, but the real
6 5
Myawady Rd more details, see p191. draw is the bathrooms, which are covered
in small stones. Economy rooms in the old
Nan Chaung
Chaung Rd
19
3 Sleeping building are as basic as they come. There are
To Nanthe;
Many of the budget and midrange guest- two open-air lounge and dining areas – one
To Inle Lake
(3.5km) Kyaukhpyugyi Paya
41
houses in Nyaungshwe are family owned for the old building and another very beauti-
31 Mingal
a Rd
and operated. Most offer low-season dis- ful teak one for the newer, more expensive
4
counts, but at any time of year most rates rooms. The woman who owns and runs the
are open to negotiation because of the fairly Teakwood with her family’s help is an asser-
INFORMATION Sri Jagdish Hindu Temple......................22 C1 EATING
Air Mandalay Office.............................(see 9) Stupa....................................................23 C1 Aroma Restaurant................................ 45 A2
intense competition. All room rates include tive saleswoman; it’s best to shop around in
Bank........................................................1 B1 Stupas..................................................24 B2 Big Drum Restaurant............................46 A2 breakfast. In addition, most hotels and terms of trips offered through here.
Comet Travel & Internet Café.................2 B2 Stupas..................................................25 B2 Eden Teashop.......................................47 C1
Golden Island Cottages Office................3 A2 Township Office.................................. 26 D2 Full Moon Restaurant...........................48 A2 guesthouses act as travel agents. They’re able Primrose Hotel (%29150; 40 Mingala Rd; s/d US$10/
Hospital..................................................4 B3 Yadana Man Aung Paya.......................27 B2 Golden Kite Restaurant.........................49 C2 to book bus tickets and flights, and arrange 15) From the outside, this hotel in the south-
Inle Blooms Global Yangon Kyaung...................................28 C2 Htoo Htoo Aung Chinese & Shan Food..50 B3
Online Information Bar...................... 5 A3 Hu Pin Restaurant.................................51 B1 boat trips, hikes and even a traditional My- ern part of town near the Mong Li Canal ap-
Moe Moe's Boat & Bicycle......................6 A3 SLEEPING La Libellude Restaurant........................52 A2 anmar massage (US$2 to US$4 per hour). pears slightly worn, with a corrugated iron
MTT Office............................................7 A2 Aquarius Inn.........................................29 A3 Miss Nyaungshwe Restaurant...............53 A2
Telephone Office....................................8 B2 Bright Hotel..........................................30 A2 Pancake Kingdom.................................54 A2 Temperatures are mild to cool at night, roof and peeling paint, but the interior is a
Yangon Airways Office..........................9 C2 Four Sisters Inn.....................................31
Gypsy Inn.............................................32
A3
A2
Shanland Restaurant.............................55
Shwe Inlay Bakery.................................56
B1
B1
making air-con unnecessary. different story. The large all-wood rooms,
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hu Pin Hotel Shwe Pye Soe Restaurant.....................57 B2 each with their own private bathroom and
Handicrafts...........................................10
Hlaing Gu Kyaung................................11
A3
C2
Nyaungshwe..................................33
Inle Inn.................................................34
B1
D2
Smiling Moon Restaurant.....................58
Unique Superb Food House..................59
C2
C1
BUDGET porch, are nicer than you’d expect for the
Independence Monument....................12 A2 Joy Hotel..............................................35 A1 Aquarius Inn (%29352; 2 Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; s/d money.
Kan Gyi Kyaung...................................13
Mingala Market....................................14
C2
B1
May Guest House.................................36
Mingalar Hotel......................................37
C2
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Puppet Theatre.....................................60 C2
US$6/12) The excellent-value Aquarius has Inle Inn (%29016; Yone Gyi Rd; s/d US$8/12) This
Monastery............................................15 C3 Nanda Wunn Hotel..............................38 D2 several cosy and warm all-wood rooms. In inn on the eastern side of town, one of the
Monastery............................................16 B2 Nawng Kham/Little Inn........................39 A3 TRANSPORT
Monument............................................17 B1 Paradise Hotel & Restaurant.................40 C1 Boat Landing........................................61 A2
a small compound directly across the street oldest privately owned inns in the country,
Museum of Shan Chiefs........................18 D1 Primrose Hotel......................................41 B3 Boat Landing........................................62 A2 from the Little Inn, it is quiet and friendly is well managed and quiet. Spick-and-span
Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung....................19 D3 Remember Inn......................................42 C1 Bus/Pick-up Stop..................................63 B1
Shwe Gu Kyaung.................................20 C2 Teak Wood Guest House.....................43 A2 Pick-ups to Shwenyaung.......................64 B1 and serves an excellent breakfast in its little rooms in the bamboo bungalows are first
Shwe Zali Paya.....................................21 A2 Viewpoint Hotel...................................44 A2 Pick-ups to Taunggyi............................65 A2 restaurant. It also has a good collection of rate. There’s a pleasant sitting area in the
foreign-language books on loan for guests. garden out the back. A Shan dinner and
Yangon Kyaung. On the southeastern outskirts Less than 1km north of the town en- May Guest House (%29417; 85 Myawady Rd; s/d puppet show is available on request.
of town, the ruin of an old Shan monastery trance, an old 18th- or 19th-century mon- US$6/12) Look for the small yellow building Viewpoint Hotel (%29062; s/d US$7/14) This
called Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung – originally astery called Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung features opposite Hlaing Gu Kyaung monastery, hotel’s unique location just over the bridge
built by the Nyaungshwe sao pha – features a venerable wooden thein (ordination hall) down a quiet side street. Snug rooms at on the other side of the canal is a mixed
a set of slender whitewashed Shan stupas with unique oval windows. A long, low, rec- this guesthouse are squeaky clean and very blessing. While it’s fun to sleep in a bun-
and some very old plinths. The complex has tangular brick-and-stucco pahto (shrine) on good value. Each has a hot-water shower galow over the water, early-morning boat
been transformed into a kammahtan kyaung the premises has Buddha images of various and a small veranda. An excellent breakfast traffic can be an annoyance. The thatched
(meditation monastery). ages inside. is included. bamboo bungalows aren’t especially well
186 I N L E L A K E • • N y a u n g s h w e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E • • N y a u n g s h w e 187
maintained, and the water pressure is unre- Rooms have a fan, a hot-water shower and though these aren’t necessarily unwelcome Big Drum Restaurant (dishes K800) Made up of a
liable, but after an afternoon on your own good beds. to travellers weary of the usual curry and rice set of thatched A-frame shelters on the west-
small balcony you’ll easily forgive these has- dishes. Interestingly enough, a few places ern bank of the main canal, this is a friendly
sles. An excellent breakfast is served on the MIDRANGE advertise pizzas but don’t serve them. Most place. A Shan dinner of fish curry, bean
roof of an attached building, where there Nanda Wunn Hotel (%22540; nandawunn@myanmar restaurants that cater to tourists stay open soup, fried peanuts and rice costs K1000.
are even better views of town. .com.mm; 80 Yone Gyi Rd; bungalows s US$18-20, d US$20- till 9pm or 10pm. Be cautious of newcom- Chinese food is also available.
Bright Hotel (%29137; 53 Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; 25; i) The Nanda Wunn, a few blocks east ers anxious to take advantage of tourists’ Htoo Htoo Aung Chinese & Shan Food (dishes
s/d US$5/8) Though the rooms at the Bright of the market in a quiet compound, isn’t dollars without providing good standards of 800) This small A-frame restaurant near the
Hotel are large, the mismatched furniture much pricier than some of the budget ac- hygiene. Several travellers have reported be- Aquarius Inn has a few tables. Shan speci-
means it’s unlikely to win any awards in commodation, but the larger, superior bun- coming sick after eating improperly washed alities are the highlight of the menu.
interior design. It’s a fairly modern house galows with high ceilings, individual porches vegetables. Hu Pin Restaurant (dishes K1000) The Hu Pin
with several wings, one of which contains a and bathrooms with tubs deserve the few Mingala Market is a good place to shop for serves very good Chinese food in a modern
large family room that sleeps at least four. extra bucks. Traditional Myanmar massage local produce; there are also plenty of Shan and clean dining area. The English-language
Nawng Kham (Little Inn; %29195; Phaung Daw is available. kauq-sweh (noodle-soup) vendors at the mar- menu is divided into three sections: chicken,
Pyan Rd; s/d US$5/10) Opposite Shwe Zali Paya, Paradise Hotel & Restaurant (%22009; 40 Third St; ket every morning. Another local delicacy is fish and pork.
this inn has seven basic carpeted rooms ar- s US$22-25, d US$25-30; a) Near the Museum of maung jeut (round, flat rice crisps). Eden Teashop (h6am-5pm) On the north-
ranged around a pleasant garden with at- Shan Chiefs, this hotel in a large compound Several hotels, including Four Sisters Inn eastern corner of the market near an old
mospheric views of the nearby stupa. is popular with French package tourists. and Teakwood Guest House, have good res- bridge over the Mong Li Canal, this teashop
Joy Hotel (%29083; Jetty Rd; s/d US$5/9) On a Standard rooms in the two-storey motel-like taurants open to nonguests. sells good nam-bya (nan-type bread) with
narrow, quiet canal west of the market, the building are not especially good value, but Unique Superb Food House (3 Myawady Rd; chicken bean dip.
Joy Hotel feels pleasantly isolated – at least the individual bungalows with wicker fur- fricassees K2000) Really only a few tables set in Also recommended:
from the other guesthouses. A small sitting niture and private porches are more appeal- a garden around the corner from the Re- Daw Nyunt Yee Restaurant (dishes K700)
area overlooking the canal makes up for the ing. All rooms have hot-water shower, fridge, member Inn, this restaurant has learned to Shanland Restaurant (dishes K700)
fairly basic (but clean) rooms. There are TV and air-con. The staff is quite helpful cater to the tourist palate without sacrificing Shwe Pye Soe Restaurant (dishes K700)
cheaper rooms with shared bathroom in the with travel and air-ticket arrangements. creativity or local flavour. The filet mignon
two-storey house. A few of the larger rooms Hu Pin Hotel Nyaungshwe (%29291; hupin-hotel@ is K2000, the potato curry is K600 and the Getting There & Away
have a hot-water shower and a toilet. mptmail.net.mm; 66 Kan Tha Quarter; s/d US$30/36; a) A cream of carrot soup is K500. Apart from flying, all the routes to the Inle
Gypsy Inn (Chaung Rd; s US$5-8, d US$10-15) More Chinese-style five-storey behemoth (well, for Golden Kite Restaurant (Yone Gyi Rd; dishes K1000) Lake area are time-consuming, but there are
modern and motel-like than other places this small village), Hu Pin won’t make you This is the reigning king of pasta and pan- several options that can save you much time
in this category, the Gypsy Inn is still good feel at home, though it does have large attach- cake joints. Omelettes, fruit shakes and a and trouble. First of all, there’s no need to
value. A few of the higher-priced rooms ed air-con rooms with hot-water shower, TV vegetarian version of its delicious tagliatelle go to Taunggyi, the main town in the area
have balconies, though proximity to the and fridge. The hotel is a block west of Min- are also on offer. Most of the staff speak and the location of the main MTT office.
canal means your morning wake-up call is gala Market. All rates include breakfast at excellent English and are quite familiar with If you simply want to go to the lake you’ll
the obnoxious revving of motorboats. the rooftop restaurant or around the corner foreign travellers’ tastes. Tables are set out- save a couple of hours by skipping Taung-
Remember Inn (%29257; remember@myanmar at the Hu Pin Restaurant, which is owned by side on a wraparound porch. gyi and transferring in the junction town of
.com.mm; Third St; s US$4-10, d US$8-12; i) Popular the same group. Smiling Moon Restaurant (Yone Gyi Rd; dishes Shwenyaung (see p181).
with backpackers and the taxi drivers who K800) With a similar menu to the Golden The staging area for most public trans-
transport them (the Remember seems to Eating Kite just down the street, Smiling Moon has port to/from Nyaungshwe is just north of
have the commission system wired), this The town seems to be reaching saturation a few tables and is clean and friendly. the Hu Pin Hotel, one block west of Min-
inn is not as charming as the competition, point in terms of pancake and pasta joints, Miss Nyaungshwe Restaurant (Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; gala Market.
though the English-speaking staff can ad- pastas K1000) The usual Chinese and Bamar cur-
dress all travel-related questions and needs. ries, plus pancakes and pasta dishes are served AIR
The cheapest bamboo furnished rooms are INLE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK here. Miss Nyaungshwe has a nice outdoor Air Mandalay (AM), Yangon Airways (YA),
actually the best value, while the higher- Kakku Thousands of stupas lined up
patio and a selection of bottled beers. Myanma Airways (MA) and Bagan Air (BA)
priced concrete rooms in the cavernous like plants in a field (p192)
Aroma Restaurant (Chaung Rd; dishes K800) This all fly to Heho (the gateway to the Inle Lake
‘high-rise’ section of the hotel are large but modest-looking place along the canal serves region), 30km west of Shwenyaung. From
unattractive. There’s a restaurant and sit- Sankar An ancient wall in a lake far savoury Indian meat and vegetable curries. Heho it’s a further 11km to Nyaungshwe
ting area with satellite TV. Burmese mas- south of Inle (p193) There’s another branch in Bagan. or 20km to Taunggyi. For some reason the
sage is available for US$2 per hour. The inn hot springs You’ll need a soak after the La Libellude (dishes K800) Walk across the terminal in Heho is completely fenced off,
is opposite the Museum of Shan Chiefs. bike ride (p189) bridge and turn left to reach this restau- so taxis have to stop down the road, over
Four Sisters Inn (%29190; 105 Nan Pan Quarter; s/d trek to Kalaw It beats the bus (p176)
rant just across the canal. La Libellude is an 100m away, where there are a couple of small
US$7/12) The proprietors here have expanded ideal place to sit in the late afternoon and restaurants.
their restaurant business into a quiet guest- Ta-Eh Gu This cave in the mountains watch canal life float by while enjoying a AM, BA and YA have daily flights from
house between the canal and a large rice east of the lake is a nice rest stop (p191) sandwich, a salad, a shake or delicious apple Yangon to Heho, some via Mandalay. Dur-
paddy, about 1km south of the main village. tart (K600). ing the high season (November to February),
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you can count on at least two flights per Bagan Shwenyaung around noon. Eastern State dirt road until you reach the fork at the top
day from Heho to Yangon and Mandalay A share taxi from Nyaungshwe to Bagan Express charges K7000 per seat and arrives of a steep hill. Turn left here and continue on
with one of these reliable carriers, but during is more convenient than a bus and only at Yangon’s Highway bus terminal 16 to 20 this hilly paved road the rest of the way. The
other times of the year service is less regular. slightly more expensive if you’re in a group hours later. hot springs will be on your left. Many hikes
The Yangon–Heho fare is US$105, and the of four. The entire taxi costs from K50,000 from Kalaw to Inle end here as well.
Mandalay–Heho fare is US$50. to K60,000 and takes around eight hours. Getting Around
AM, BA and YA fly daily from Heho to Shwe Hla Mi and Ye Thu Aunger operate Most guesthouses have bicycles for rent, as INLEH BO TEH
Bagan with a stopover in Mandalay. A ticket buses from Taunggyi to Bagan (K7000) that do a few of the travel agencies and a couple a='"ly' buil'tE
for this leg costs US$75. leave at 4am. The buses pass by the Shwe- of ramshackle bike-rental shacks around The lake is very shallow and clear, so a swim
During the high season AM and YA fly nyaung junction at around 5am and arrive town. Rates are generally K500 per day. It’s looks inviting, and Inleh Bo Teh is a good place
from Heho to Kengtung and Tachileik daily in Bagan around 12 hours later. an excellent way to see the surrounding to have one. Inleh means ‘middle of’, bo
(US$75). countryside, including the hot springs near means ‘officer’ or ‘official’, and teh means
MA flies from Yangon and Mandalay to Kalaw, Thazi & Meiktila Kaung Daing. ‘house’, so Inleh Bo Teh is literally ‘an of-
Heho as well, but there’s no reason to fly To reach Kalaw from Nyaungshwe, catch any ficial's house in the middle of a lake’. It’s
with the government-run airline, especially Mandalay- or Yangon-bound bus in Shwe- AROUND THE LAKESHORE no longer used as such, but it makes a good
as the other airlines are far superior in nyaung (three to four hours). Buses going To explore the lake, you can hire a boat place to stop for a mid-lake picnic or swim.
terms of reliability and comfort. to Yangon generally also stop in Thazi, and from just about anyone who has one. The
The one-hour taxi ride between Heho some buses going to Mandalay may stop in exact price per person or per boat depends NGA HPE CHAUNG
airport and Nyaungshwe costs K9000 to Meiktila (a new road now bypasses the town, on two things: the price of petrol and the (JUMPING CAT MONASTERY)
K15,000. It’s more expensive to go from the which makes the situation uncertain). distance travelled. An all-day trip around =:"fy'exYC='"
airport to town, since drivers there know the lake costs less than US$10. Key sights Monks get bored just like the rest of us –
you’re at their mercy. The cheaper option is Mandalay include the Ywama floating market, Indein meditation only gets you so far. Admittedly,
to hike out to the main road and wait for a Buses between Mandalay and the lake area and Phuang Daw Oo Paya. See p191 for we don’t know anything about this, but sup-
pick-up or bus to the Shwenyaung junction (eight to 12 hours) cost K5000 to K6000, more information on boat trips. porting our theory are the monks at Nga
(K350); from Shwenyaung, another pick-up depending on the bus company. Two of Hpe Kyaung, who have trained their much-
or bus will eventually go to Nyaungshwe the more reliable express companies, Taung Sights photographed resident cats to leap through
(about K200). If you’re continuing to Taung- Thar Express and Shan Maw Mye, have KAUNG DAING small hoops. (Just north of Ywama, Nga Hpe
gyi, it’s K300. Keep in mind that doing it the daily departures for Taunggyi. The former ex:='tiu=' is a wooden monastery on stilts that was
cheap way may take half a day. departs Mandalay at 7pm and the latter This Intha village on the northwestern shore built four years before Mandalay Palace.)
at 5am. of the lake is known for its soybean cakes The monks have expressed some frustra-
BUS, PICK-UP & TAXI Several buses pass through Shwenyaung and noodles. It’s easy to observe the meth- tion with visitors who make cat-jumping de-
By road, most people travel to Inle Lake from on their way to Mandalay from 6pm to 8pm. ods used, as just about every other house- mands while they (the monks) are occupied
Bagan, Mandalay, Thazi or Kalaw. Around If arranged through guesthouses, share hold is involved in this cottage industry. with things such as eating and meditating.
January, the trip from the plains over the taxis between Nyaungshwe and Mandalay Pottery and weaving can also be seen. Just Otherwise they seem willing to oblige vis-
mountains to Inle Lake can be very cold in are around K50,000 to K60,000 for the outside the village are some interesting Shan itors. But an even better reason to visit is the
an open-truck pick-up – make sure you have whole taxi and take around eight hours. temple ruins. modest collection of Buddha images in Shan,
some warm clothes. Although it’s unlikely to be used by A little north of Kaung Daing (also spelt Tibetan, Bagan and Inwa (Ava) styles. The
The initial departure point and final des- buses, a new and shorter route by car leaves Kaungdine) are some hot springs (h7am-5pm) – tall, highly ornate wood-and-mosaic pedes-
tination of all public transport is Taunggyi, the Mandalay–Meiktila road just south of really little more than a concrete communal tals and cases built for the images are just as
but travellers in Nyaungshwe and Inle need Kyaukse and crosses the hills through Ye- bath. Longyi are available for rent (K200). impressive as the Buddhas themselves. Many
only wait by the side of the road at Shwe- Ngan to meet the Aungban–Pindaya road Private rooms are also available (US$2). of the original Shan images they once con-
nyaung junction, 11km north of Nyaung- halfway between the two towns. The water is very hot and said to be clean- tained have been sold or stolen, so the cases
shwe. Buses stop and pick up passengers est between May and August. mostly house newer images.
waiting at the side of the road. Tickets for Taunggyi & Yangon Kaung Daing and the hot springs are a
the destinations listed below should be pur- Pick-ups to Taunggyi leave virtually every 1½-hour drive from Nyaungshwe around YWAMA
chased in advance. Travel agencies and most half-hour from 6am to 4pm from a small the top of the lake via Shwenyaung on the râ;m
hotels and guesthouses in Nyaungshwe can lot two blocks south of the canal. The up- Heho road, or about 30 minutes across the To see Ywama’s famous floating market, you
help make bus reservations. hill trip takes one hour and costs K500 lake by boat. A boat charter costs K800 (each must calculate the day according to the
Share taxis are quicker and generally not for a front seat and K300 for a spot in the way) to Kaung Daing, which has a couple local five-day market scheme. Sad to say,
significantly more expensive than a bus if crowded back. of hotels nearby. However, most travellers you must also consider what has hap-
you’re travelling in a group of four or more. A taxi along the same route costs K12,000 interested only in the hot springs arrive by pened to this once-interesting local event.
Any of the following destinations can be ar- or more for a return trip. bicycle (see above). It’s a bumpy and pot- On market day, the Ywama floating mar-
ranged through your guesthouse or one of Several companies run buses between holed 40-minute ride from Nyaungshwe. ket is a traffic jam of tourist boats and
the travel agencies or freelance guides roam- Yangon and Taunggyi (see p195). Two Cross the small bridge over the canal on the souvenir hawkers, with a few local farm-
ing around Nyaungshwe’s restaurants. nightly Yangon-bound buses stop briefly in western edge of town and follow the rough, ers trying to sell their vegetables to a few
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local buyers. On nonmarket days, it’s al- reveal Nyaung Ohak (Group of Banyan Trees, for a shawl) because of their rarity, as lotus people in town do shorter canoe trips on
most worse because there are only souvenir or Under the Shade of Banyan Trees), a plants can only be gathered for six months the canals branching from the lake and
and tourist boats; of course, the smart vege- mouldering complex of shrines and stupas. of the year. along the Nyaungshwe shore of the lake.
table farmers are already at another five- Even more exotic looking is the stairway Although you won’t get to see the more
day market. Arriving early won’t help: the lined with hundreds of wooden columns Activities famous lake sights, life along the canals is
action is in full swing by 8.30am, and it’s leading up the hill. At the top is Shwe Inn MOTORBOAT TRIPS fascinating and the villagers are friendly.
downhill from there. Thein, an impressive collection of weather- It is de rigueur to take at least one boat trip The slow-moving canoes are also better for
Don’t despair – you can enjoy a float- beaten stupas that, from one perspective, on the lake during a visit to Inle. Long, photography.
ing market without fighting the crowds have thankfully escaped restoration. From narrow dugout canoes outfitted with enor- One place that can only be visited by
and without adding to the already crazy the hillside there are great views across the mous lawn-mower engines typically ferry canoe is the large nat shrine in the middle
atmosphere of Ywama. Simply choose any lake to the hills in the east and, behind the tourists to Phaung Daw Oo Paya (Ywama), of a swampy banyan-tree jungle opposite
market from the five-day market schedule stupas, of the countryside to the west. Jumping Cat Monastery, Indein, and the Nanthe village on the main channel. The
around Inle. Any guesthouse or hotel in But the very picturesqueness that draws floating gardens and souvenir shops. At house-sized wooden shrine sits on stilts and
Nyaungshwe will have the current schedule. visitors is undermined by the souvenir sell- all these places you’ll see Shan shoulder contains a rustic altar.
A secondary five-day circuit rotates among ers that travellers must dodge from the mo- bags, embroidered shirts and longyi, tap- Canoes aren’t subject to the lake entrance
the lake villages of Kaung Daing, Maing ment they step from the boat. The site is estries, pottery, jewellery, and all the usual fee and can be arranged from the same
Thauk, Nam Pan, Indein and Thandaung. practically one long table of tourist kitsch, souvenirs. places as motorboats, including the canal
The approach to Ywama is quite beautiful though some of the lacquerware and silver- The lake itself is rich in wildlife, espe- area near the bridge. Rates for two to three
despite the market scene, and after the morn- ware is of good quality. cially waterfowl. All bird life on the lake people range from a cheap K500 for one
ing rush hour (and before the late-afternoon It’s a 1000m climb to reach the U Daung and in the adjoining wetlands is reportedly hour to K6000 for several hours.
one) it’s a lovely place to see. Perched over Monastery & Meditation Centre, just south of protected by law, as Inle Lake has been an
the lake are several restaurants, good for Indein. official bird sanctuary since 1985. You can HIKING
a midday snack or lunch break, serving see herons, warblers and egrets, which fly Extended walks to the north or south of
Bamar and Chinese food. Regular boats go MAING THAUK in formation over the lake every day about Nyaungshwe pass among extensive rice
from Nyaungshwe to Ywama village. miu='"eo;k'' an hour before sunset. However, you won’t paddies dotted with Shan stupa ruins. Trails
On the eastern side of the lake, the village hear them – or the comments of fellow pas- into the hills east of town lead to Pa-O vil-
PHAUNG DAW OO PAYA of Maing Thauk is divided into ‘land’ and sengers for that matter – over the thunder lages and panoramic views of the lake area.
efC='et;'W".ur;" ‘floating’ halves. The 0.5km-long wooden of the boat’s motor. The front seat is best A good and rugged all-day hike is to the
The main landing at Ywama stands in front bridge running out to the floating village for those with sensitive eardrums. monastery Koun Soun Taungbo and nearby cave
of Phaung Daw Oo Paya, the holiest religious from the lake’s shore was built with volun- Virtually every hotel and guesthouse in Ta-Eh Gu. You pass through two Pa-O villages
site in the southern area of Shan State. Five tary village labour in 2001. Just below the Nyaungshwe can arrange motorboat trips. on the way. Further away are the ruins of
images, four of which are ferried around boys’ orphanage on the hillside above the vil- As you might expect, the higher-end ho- Kakku.
the lake during the important Phaung Daw lage, a few crumbling gravestones are all that tels charge more. The least expensive trips Guided day hikes can be arranged at
Oo festival (see p183), are enshrined in the remain of the colonial-era Fort Steadman. can be sussed out by simply showing up the guesthouses or hotels. Guides typically
centre of the building. Beside the channel Further up the hill is the Maing Thauk forest at the jetty near the MTT office and ask- charge US$5 a day, which includes a basic
are the boathouses sheltering the ornate ves- monastery. The village is within cycling dis- ing around. The drawback to the cheaper lunch of rice and curry. Multiday trips,
sels that carry the images on their annual tance from Nyaungshwe; follow the bumpy boats found at the pier is the fact that the other than to Inle, are currently not offi-
voyage. track running along the foot of the hills that ‘drivers’ are less likely to speak English and cially encouraged. It’s a good idea to bring
Stalls on the ground floor of the shrine rise up from the lake. more likely to ferry you to the standard bottled water on any day hike.
and nearby sell brightly coloured cotton touristy places where they receive commis- An increasingly popular option is the hike
Shan shoulder bags, other local crafts and SOUTHERN END OF THE LAKE sion. Prices range from K6000 per boat to from Inle Lake to Kalaw, though it’s more
‘antiques’. Silk and cotton fabrics are a local On the southwestern side of the lake, a long K6000 per person for the day. Some boats common to do it in the other direction. A
speciality; there are over 200 hand looms in walkway leads to the poorly restored hill-top can seat up to 10. You may be asked to pay typical route includes stops in the following
Ywama. A shady khamauk (conical bamboo complex of stupas at Thaung Tho Kyaung. On more depending on your itinerary. Shan, Intha, Pa-O, Danu and Taung villages:
hat) is another popular purchase here. the lakeside there’s a popular market site (the Indein, Nan Yakr, Taung Kha Mauk, Kyauk
market is part of the five-day scheme). CANOE TRIPS Su Ti Htain, Put Tu Pauk, Kun Lone, Lay
INDEIN Right at the southern end of the lake, the With all the package tours heading to the Thar Gone, Pha Yar Phyu, Inn Woon, Myin
a='"tim' whole village of Kyauk Taung is so devoted to southern end of the lake on noisy power- Ma Hti and Kalaw.
A regular convoy of motorised longboats pottery-making that there are pots every- boats nowadays, a quiet canoe paddle through
speeding tourists through the winding, maze- where. The floating village of Kyaing Kan East the villages along the lake channel has be- Sleeping
like entrance to the village of Indein on the specialises in weaving robes using threads come an attractive alternative. Unfortu- Upmarket places, some quite idyllic, are
western side of the lake detracts somewhat drawn from the long stems of lotus plants. nately, following the drowning of a foreign primarily found on the lake itself or outside
from the Indiana Jones–like atmosphere. The lotus robes are specially made for visitor after a canoe capsized, nonmotorised Nyaungshwe somewhere near the shore.
Overgrown vegetation slaps against the boat monks, Buddha statues and visiting tourists. canoes ferrying foreign passengers are no All of the hotels built like floating vil-
and your head, and dense jungle opens up to They’re quite expensive (US$35 to US$50 longer allowed on the lake. However, several lages on stilts directly over the lake or on the
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lakeshore are top end. While they are indeed Royal Orchid Hotel (in Taunggyi%23182; s US$25-30, drawn to these ancient sites to view them in beings). A monk lives in the old pagoda and
quite idyllic, single travellers will probably d US$30-45) Near Kaung Daing on the north- their ‘picturesque’ ruined state, local Bud- monastery, surrounded by lush fields.
feel somewhat lonely, as it’s a long boat ride western part of the lake, the Royal Orchid is dhist pilgrims come specifically to acquire Trips to Sankar are arranged in coopera-
back to Nyaungshwe, and the fantastic sun- a quiet and relaxing place about 50m from religious merit by contributing money to tion with the Pa-O collective. Golden Island
sets visible from the eastern shore stir ro- the lake’s bank. It offers 20 spacious bunga- the restoration of the ruins. Cottage (opposite) charges K30,000 for up
mantic feelings best explored with others. low rooms with private facilities and serene Kakku is managed by the same Pa-O col- to five people, plus a permit fee of US$6.
Reservations are recommended in the views. Rates vary depending on room size lective that owns the Golden Island Cot-
high season, and discounts are available on- and view. tages at Inle Lake. Before visiting the site, Taunggyi
line. All of the hotels will arrange pick-ups Also recommended: foreign visitors are required to stop at the et;='äkI"
and return boat trips to/from Nyaungshwe. Hu Pin Hotel Inle Khaung Daing Village Resort GIC office (Pa-O collective office; %23136; fax 23970; %081
Golden Island Cottages I (Nampan) & II (Thale (%29291; [email protected]) 65 West Circular Rd, Taunggyi) and pay a US$3 en- Taunggyi feels distant from the tourist-
U) (GIC; in Taunggyi%23136, in Yangon%01-549 019; Shwe Inn Tha Floating Resort (%22077; www trance fee and a US$5 guide fee. A Pa-O oriented Nyaungshwe, its Chinese influence
www.gicmyanmar.com; s US$35-60, d US$40-70; i ) .myanmarinlefloatingresort.com; s/d US$33/38) guide from this office will accompany you visible in the architecture and physiognomy
The equivalent of prime beach-front prop- to the site. While their English isn’t always of its inhabitants. The town’s essence is the
erty, the Golden Island Cottages’ location Eating up to par, this arrangement will at least en- main commercial thoroughfare that runs
near the village of Nam Pan affords unob- There are a number of places to eat in the able the Pa-O to earn some of the tourist from north to south. It’s flanked by tightly
structed views of the lake and surrounding floating village of Ywama, near Phaung Daw dollars that they hope their historic site will packed buildings selling everything from
mountains on both sides. The main lodge Oo Paya. Several restaurants with balconies attract. refrigerators to knock-off designer clothing
is connected to the individual hardwood serve Chinese food and make nice lunch So far there isn’t any accommodation in and more mundane electrical supplies.
cottages (each with a private balcony) by an stops on an all-day lake tour. the immediate vicinity. Hlaing Konn Res- At 1430m, Taunggyi (‘Big Hill’ in Bur-
elevated walkway, so that every room seems For a real treat, albeit an expensive one, taurant, a huge restaurant of the type that mese) provides a cool break from the heat of
to be its own little island. Newer all-teak hire a boat to take you to the Inle Princess caters to busloads of package tourists, over- the plains. There are some pleasant walks if
rooms are much nicer than the older rooms Resort for a meal. Choose from Shan, Intha, looks the site. you’re in the mood, but basically the town is
furnished with bamboo matting. There’s a Thai and European menus (US$18). a growing trade centre for the southwestern
swimming area with a sandy bottom, and GETTING THERE & AWAY area of Shan State. All that remains of the
the affordable restaurant specialises in Chi- AROUND INLE LAKE To visit Kakku you must first hire a car. colonial era is an overgrown graveyard, a
nese, Pa-O and Shan dishes (sweet-and-sour Kakku Foreigners aren’t allowed to take public stone church, a line of cherry trees and a
butterfish costs K2000). kkûB transport to the site, even though a railway handful of timber cottages, all on the fringes
Both GICs – 20 rooms near Thale U were Kakku (also spelt Kekku or Ketku) is best de- line runs from Taunggyi to Kakku. Cars of town.
opened in 2000 – are run as a Pa-O collec- scribed as an orchard of stupas. Some 40km and guides can be hired through hotels in Taunggyi is the official end of the line
tive, which means that profits benefit the south of Taunggyi in a region populated by Taunggyi (1½ hours one way) and Nyaung- for east-bound foreigners in Myanmar – at
community. Thale U is quieter as it’s closer the Pa-O people, the site is said to contain shwe (2½ hours one way). The return trips least for those travelling by road. What lies
to the shore and out of earshot of most boats. over 2000 stupas, most of which are only cost US$15 and US$25 respectively, plus beyond Taunggyi is a matter of speculation:
Both hotels welcome guests with a percus- 3m to 4m high, laid out in neat rows. Con- US$5 admission per person (this includes black-marketeers, ruby miners, insurgent
sion quartet and cold towels. They also run structed in a mixture of Pa-O, Shan and waiting time of a couple of hours at the armies or opium and methamphetamine
treks and trips to Kakku and Sankar. Bamar styles, the stupas are made of brick stupas). The less expensive option is to just warlords?
Inle Princess Resort (%29055, in Yangon%211 and laterite, and some are covered with or- show up at the GIC office in Taunggyi and Because it functions as a conduit for
226; www.inleprincessresort.com; bungalows US$160) nate stucco motifs. Two larger stupas are hire a guide from there. smuggled goods from Thailand, China and
Easily the most luxurious place on the lake, also part of the collection; one contains a India, and as a base for trips to the Maing
the Inle Princess is honeymoon material. highly revered Buddha image. No detailed Sankar Shu (Mong Hsu) gem tract to the east, this
Extravagant and sophisticated, the indi- studies have been conducted to determine c®kC" is one of Myanmar’s most prosperous and
vidual bungalows have been designed with the age of this site, but a local legend gives This area far south of Inle only opened to enterprising towns. An abundance of black-
maximum attention to every detail and it a history dating back to the 3rd century foreign tourists in 2003, though hardly any market consumer goods is displayed in the
a concern for privacy. Colourful pillows, BC, when India’s Buddhist emperor Asoka is venture here. The trip from Nyaungshwe Taunggyi market, which is at the edge of
original artwork, pyjamas and flowers are said to have sent missionaries to the region. takes 2½ hours from October to December, a Chinese enclave whose residents include
just a few of the touches. Some bungalows An all-weather road has been built to and 3½ hours in the dry season. A long, many illegal immigrants. The remainder of
have outdoor all-stone showers and baths. Kakku, making it easily accessible from winding canal connects the southernmost the population of 100,000 people includes
More expensive ones have lake views, sun Taunggyi. Unfortunately, along with the tip of Inle with a reservoir near the vil- tribespeople, Shan, Bamar, Sikhs, Punjabis
decks and cushioned lounge chairs, while new road have come concessions to tour- lage of Sankar. Running through the water and Nepalis. Along Taunggyi’s main streets
others have garden views. ists, both foreign and local. The site has here is the remnants of an old irrigation canal, you’ll see various temples, mosques and
The spectacular dining room and bar been fenced in, and paved walkways have made of sand and lime over 500 years ago churches.
area, with its soaring ceiling, is modelled been laid around and through the rows of for a settlement ruled by a Shan chief. Lo-
on a monastery building in Kengtung. The stupas. The typical dilemma that affects cals unfamiliar with the materials and tech- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Shan food is expensive but excellent, and Buddhist ruins throughout Southeast Asia nology used to build the wall explain its Taunggyi has an interesting market area in
cultural shows are put on for big groups. applies here. While foreign visitors are origins in a love story involving nat (spirit the centre of town where you’re likely to
194 I N L E L A K E • • A r o u n d I n l e L a k e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E • • A r o u n d I n l e L a k e 195
INFORMATION
TAUNGGYI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles Hospital....................................................................................1 A1
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Khine Thazin (dishes K1000), Maxim’s Chinese
Mayflower Bank......................................................................2 A3 In October/November, to coincide with the Restaurant (dishes K1000) and Coca-Cola Restau-
A B Myanmar Economic Bank (MEB)..............................................3 A3
full-moon festival of Tazaungmon (Tazaung- rant (dishes K1000) are three of the better res-
To Inle Lake (35km); Post & Telecom Office.............................................................4 A4
1 Heho (35km) 11 daing), the city hosts a hot-air (or fire-) balloon taurants in Taunggyi. They serve Bamar
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Asian Light Supermarket..........................................................5 A3 festival. It’s very popular with Burmese and Chinese cuisine and can be found near
1 Baptist Church..........................................................................6 B2 tourists, so it may be easier to find accom- one another on Bogyoke Aung San Rd
Catholic Church.......................................................................7 B3
Church.....................................................................................8 B2 modation in Nyaungshwe during this three- (Main Rd). At Khine Thazin, the best of the
Clock Tower............................................................................9
Flying Tiger Mashua..............................................................10
A2
A3
day event. bunch, each dish comes with a handful of
38 Gem Market...........................................................................11 B1 interesting free side dishes, and the friendly
GIC Office.............................................................................12 A2 SLEEPING owner ensures that service is conscientious
West Circular Rd
Mosque.................................................................................13 A3
28
Khwanyo Rd 35 Mosque.................................................................................14 A4 There really is no reason to spend the and timely.
37
27
Myoe Le Dhamma Yon Paya.................................................15
New Market..........................................................................16
A3
A2
night in Taunggyi rather than Nyaung- Maw Kham (Mawkham St; hto 8pm) This hum-
25 32
33 8 43 Old Market............................................................................17 A2 shwe. In terms of quality, value and charm, ble abode, next door to the Coca-Cola Res-
St George Anglican Church...................................................18 A4
Shan State Cultural Museum.................................................19 A4
accommodation in Taunggyi simply can’t taurant, serves Bamar and Chinese standards,
East Circular Rd
2 39 Shan State Library.................................................................20 A4 compete. If you do decide to stay here in and has a late closing time for Taunggyi. To
Sikh Temple...........................................................................21 A3
42
26 6
Township Offices...................................................................22 B4 November, keep the balloon festival in get there, walk east from the main street and
45
41 Yat Taw Me Paya.................................................................. 23 A4 mind (see above). make an immediate left. It’s the unmarked
YMCA................................................................................... 24 A4
12
16 17 34
Taunggyi Hotel (%21127; Shu Myaw Khin Rd; s/d wooden building on the right (there’s a Bur-
9
Bogyoke Aung San Rd (Main Rd)
SLEEPING US$25/30) Perched on a hillside, this supposedly mese sign).

44 5 Khemarat Guest House..........................................................25 A2
40 Khemarat Hotel.....................................................................26 A2 privatised place sprawls over landscaped Other recommended restaurants:
36
Ὀ
10 Muse Hotel............................................................................27
Paradise Hotel........................................................................28
A2
A2
grounds near the southern end of town. Brother Hotel Restaurant (222 Bogyoke Aung San
15 Spacious rooms come with attached hot- Rd) A block south of Lyan Yu Restaurant, the Brother Hotel
Thida Rd
Salween Hotel.......................................................................29 A3
31
Taunggyi Hotel......................................................................30 B4 water bathrooms and access to tennis serves decent Chinese meals.
3 3
EATING courts. The old Ministry of Hotels & Tour- Daw Thwan Shan Noodle Shop Just across from the
21 Brother Hotel Restaurant.......................................................31 A3
13 29
2 Coca-Cola Restaurant............................................................32 A2
ism (MHT)–style bar and restaurant attract Khemarat Guest House, this place does very good noodles.
Daw Thwan Shan Noodle Shop.............................................33 A2 a mix of well-heeled businesspeople and
Htun Restaurant....................................................................34 A2
46
Khine Thazin Restaurant........................................................35 A2
military types. GETTING THERE & AWAY
7
Bogyoke
Park Lyan Yu Restaurant................................................................36 A3 Paradise Hotel (%22009; 157 Khwanyo Rd; stand- Air
Maw Kham............................................................................37 A2
14
24 Maxim's Chinese Restaurant..................................................38 A1 ard s/d US$20/30) This modern, four-storey Daily flights go to Heho from Bagan, Keng-
23 4 Sein Myanmar Restaurant......................................................39 A2 Chinese-style place has an interior-design tung, Mandalay and Yangon; Heho is 35km
20
ENTERTAINMENT scheme that challenges the eye: checker- west of Taunggyi. See p187 for more details.
19 Shu Myoma Cinema.....................................................................40 A3 board tile floors, wicker chairs and pink A taxi from Heho to Taunggyi costs around
Mya
4 22 curtains. There are also slightly nicer rooms US$10 or the kyat equivalent.
18 TRANSPORT
w Khin
30
Buses to Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan.......................................41 A2 with plush sitting rooms at the end of each
Rd
Eastern State Express Bus.......................................................42 A2

Myanma Airways...................................................................43 B2 floor. Note that there’s no lift. Bus, Pick-up & Taxi
To Kakku (42km);
Kengtung (456km)
Taxis & Local Buses, Pick-Ups................................................44
Taxis, Pick-ups to Inle Lake....................................................45
A3
A2
Hotel Empire (% 23737; 31 Bogyoke Aung San Public pick-up trucks from Taunggyi to Inle
Yangon Airways....................................................................46 A3 Rd; s/d US$15/24) Owned by a Chinese trad- Lake (front/back seat K500/300, one hour)
ing company, this place caters to business leave frequently from the area just north of
rub shoulders with hill-tribe people. There’s kinds of dress for the 35 different ethnic travellers. It’s in a nondescript four-storey Taunggyi market between 6am and 4pm.
a daily market, plus one that comes to town groups officially recognised in the state. building but is more modern than other A taxi along the same route costs around
every five days. The latter market moves English-speaking lecturers are available at hotels. Rooms come with ‘extras’ such as US$10 or the kyat equivalent.
from Taunggyi to Pwehla (on the way to no extra cost to lead visitors around. TV and bathtub. There’s one bus per day from Taunggyi
Pindaya), then to Kalaw on the third day, The Pa-O have established a cultural cen- Khemarat Hotel (%22464; 4B Bogyoke Aung San to Pindaya (K1500), leaving at 2pm and ar-
and from there (in turn) to Pindaya, Heho tre (98 Merchant St) near the market. The small Rd), Muse Hotel (%22567; 6 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) riving at 5.30pm. This bus generally leaves
and back to Taunggyi. but well-laid-out centre contains musical and Salween Hotel (%22605; 289 Bogyoke Aung San from the Eastern State Express bus stop
There’s also a daily gem market (hnoon-4pm) instruments, including a typical Pa-O ac- Rd) all have singles/doubles for US$10/20. on Bogyoke Aung San Rd, where there’s
in the northeastern part of town, where jade, cordion, as well as banknotes and tradi- a ticket office. There are frequent pick-ups
rubies and sapphires are bought and sold. tional costumes. EATING to Pindaya from the Shwenyaung junction,
For those interested in the Shan State’s There’s a cheroot factory called Flying A row of small food stalls in the market starting at 6am.
cultures, the modest Shan State Cultural Mu- Tiger Mashua on a sidestreet to the south area serves decent Chinese and Shan dishes. Buses heading to Mandalay (K5000 to
seum (admission US$2; h9.30am-3.30pm) and Shan of the Myoma Cinema. The hand-rolling Very little English is spoken here. Between K6000, eight hours) depart from just north
State Library are worth a visit. Items include technique is impressive, and cheroot bun- the Sikh temple and the cinema on the main of the market.
local native costumes, religious art, musi- dlers are able to get cheroots into bundles road are a number of decent teashops and Several buses for Yangon (K7000, 16 to
cal instruments, ceramics and weapons. If of 50 without counting – they judge simply small eateries that specialise in an extensive 20 hours) depart at around 6pm from the
nothing else, you can begin identifying the by feel. variety of pastries and tea snacks. area just north of the market.
196 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) 197
colonial architecture, Kengtung is probably KENGTUNG (KYAINGTONG) 0 500 m
KENGTUNG & the most scenic town in Shan State. It’s a good
base for trips to ethnic-minority villages. A B C
0
D
0.3 miles
BORDER AREAS About 80% of the township’s population

of 180,000 people is Khün; roughly 15% is
To Hot Springs (11km);
Mong Yang (100km)
50 Kanaburi
Village
To Mong La
(90km)
Mai
kYŸi='"t®u NH='¾ ny'cp'eds
Y
Shan-Chinese and the remainder is a mix of
ang
1 45
%084 other ethnicities, such as Lahu. About half of
Rd
10
18 20
Because Kengtung is only accessible by air the population is Buddhist, and another 17%
Naung Khum Rd
from within Myanmar, this mountainous is Christian – American missionaries were UNDCP 7
region bordering China, Laos and Thai- quite active here, as their imposing churches Office
land attracts fewer visitors than it otherwise attest. The rest of the population belongs to 36
56 Rd To Airport
would. Those who do shell out for the airfare various spirit cults. Airport (3km)
are more likely to be on group tours, while Kengtung is also a strategic stronghold of 33
62
Myaing Yau n
39
others cross overland from Thailand. If in the Myanmar government amid the shifting 57
63
53 38
future domestic airfares drop or foreigners seas of Shan and Wa insurgency and the 2
13
are allowed to reach the area by road from illicit drug trade. Its position is doubly stra- 12
27
3
35
Naung Kham 61
g
Taunggyi, Kengtung will probably become a tegic, as the area is a crossroads with outlets
Rd
54 Lake
d
al R
30
standard stop for overland travellers, rival- in four countries – Myanmar, China, Thai-
spit
Naung Tung
52
Ho
ling Kalaw and Inle. However, it’s the very land and Laos. As such, it’s a linchpin in
41
remoteness of it that makes this mountain the country’s defence. Some human-rights To Taunggyi
40
31
34
Kan
valley, dotted with far-flung minority hill- groups claim that over 125,000 Wa were (456km)
32
24
28 67
Rd
Tac
tribe villages, attractive to travellers. resettled from the north to the south be- hile
ik
22
23 15 14
2
(Ma -Taunggyi 47 58
17 nggy i Rd
Although Kengtung lies about midway tween 1992 and 2002. It’s reported that the in Rd
)
Rd 65 48 11 68 16 19
-Ta
ileik Rd)
between the Thanlwin and Mekong River United Wa State Army has 20,000 troops 3 46
66 49 Tach (Main
64
Kyainge Rd
1 60
26 4 55
valleys, it is more or less cut off from the and enjoys good relations with the Chinese 59
21
former by a series of north–south mountain government in Beijing. 6
Lo
5 9
iM
ranges. Hence, culturally, the area has more 25
w
e
Ze
Rd
affinity with the nearby cultures of the Me- Information 29 51
igy
8
oR
kong – Laos, Xishuangbanna (southeast- Sunflower Travel & Tours (%21833) Just over a
d
ern Yunnan Province, China) and northern block east of the central market.
Lo
Naung Yarng
i-m
Lake
Thailand – than with the Shan and Bamar Yangon Airways (%22300; 36 Zaytangyi Rd; h9am-
w
e
44
Rd
43
cultures west of the Thanlwin. Indeed, cul- 5pm) Near the Mausoleum of the Khün Princes. 42
turally Kengtung feels more like some long- 4 d
gR
Yan To Loi-mwe (32km);
forgotten corner of northern Thailand than Sights & Activities 37
Pha
Mong Hypayak;
To Pha Yang Talay;
a part of Myanmar. When the British settled into Kengtung, Gate (50m) Tachileik (163km)
they centred the town on a large natural
KENGTUNG (KYAINGTONG) lake. Decaying colonial-style buildings, taken INFORMATION Sports Field................................23 B3 Yat Thaw Mu.............................48 B3
kYŸi='"tu® over by the Myanmar government or by Fax & Telegram Office.................1 B3 Tai Khun Silverworks.................. 24 C3
Hospital.......................................2 D3 Town Hall.................................. 25 C3 SLEEPING
%084 squatters, are reminiscent of British colonial Immigration Office.......................3 B2 Wat Asok...................................26 B3 Barami Motel.............................49 C3
Police Station................................4 B3 Wat Chiang Ing (Keng Ing)........27 B2 Harry's Trekking House...............50 B1
Kengtung appears more planned than the provincial architecture found elsewhere in Regional Offices...........................5 C3 Wat Chiang Jan (Keng San)....... 28 C3 Hsam Yawt Guest House...........51 C3
average medium-sized Myanmar town. Myanmar and India. Sunflower Travel & Tours.............6 C3 Wat Chiang Khom (Keng Khom)..29 B3 Kyaing Tong Hotel.....................52 B2
5 Wat Chiang Ying (Keng Yun)..... 30 C2 New Sam Yweat Guest House...53 D2
There’s a less ad-hoc feel and more uniform- The lake in the centre of town, Naung Tung SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wat Ho Kat............................... 31 C3 Noi Yee Hotel.............................54 B2
ity of design. This organisation, coupled (naung is the Shan word for ‘small lake’), American Baptist Church..............7 B1 Wat Ho Kong............................ 32 C3 Princess Hotel............................55 C3
Central Market.............................8 C3 Wat In....................................... 33 C2 Private Hotel..............................56 D2
with a pleasant sense of isolation and the is a popular spot for morning and evening Chinese Clan House.....................9 C3 Wat Jom Mai............................. 34 D3 Shein Tip Hotel..........................57 C2
picturesque mountain backdrop, sees Keng- strolls. Chinese School...........................10 A1
Immaculate Heart Cathedral....(see 21)
Wat Jong Kham (Zom Kham)..... 35 C2
Wat Kae Min............................. 36 C2 EATING
tung hit the rare Myanmar trifecta. Tucked The central market draws people from Independence Monument..........11 C3 Wat Mahabodhi Vipassana (Kamathan Golden Banyan Restaurant.........58 C3
Jail............................................. 12 A2 Kyaung)................................. 37 A4 Lauo Tien Lu Restaurant............59 C3
away in the far east of Shan State – 456km all over the Kengtung district, including Mangala Kyaung (Wat Wat Naung Kham...................... 38 D2 Lok Thar Restaurant...................60 C3
northeast of Taunggyi, 163km north of the a variety of hill-tribe people. Fresh pro- Tamawtaya)...........................13 C2 Wat Noi Naw.............................39 B2 Mingalar Restaurant.................. 61 D2
Maung Mai Kyaung...................14 C3 Wat Pha Jao Lung (Maha Myat Quickly Café..............................62 D2
border town of Tachileik (opposite Mae duce and household goods are the market’s Maung Ming Kyaung.................15 C3 Muni).................................... 40 C3 Seik Tie Kye Restaurant..............63 C2
Sai, Thailand) and 1200m above sea level – main emphases, but some handicrafts are Mausoleum of the Khün Princes..16 C3 Wat Pha Kaew........................... 41 C3
6 Mosque..................................... 17 D3 Wat Pha That Jom Mon............. 42 C4 TRANSPORT
Kengtung is the sleepy but historic centre for also available. Look for a handful of stalls Naung Pha Gate.........................18 B1 Wat Si Naw................................43 B4 Buses to Tachilek........................64 A3
the state’s Khün culture, surrounded by Wa, that specialise in supplying Akha women Paleng Gate...............................19 C3 Wat Tuya...................................44 B4 Buses to Taunggyi......................65 A3
Pottery Works............................20 C1 Wat Yang Kon...........................45 C1 Myanma Airways.......................66 B3
Shan, Akha and Lahu villages. Built around with the silver coins, buttons and seed beads Roman Catholic Mission.............21 A3 Water Buffalo Market................ 46 A3 Pick-Ups to Mong La.................67 C3
a small lake, and dotted with ageing Bud- that they use to decorate their colourful St Mary's Convent.....................22 B3 Yang Kham Gate....................... 47 A3 Yangon Airways.........................68 C3
dhist temples and a few examples of British clothing.

198 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) 199
A water-buffalo market is held twice a week considered the most outstanding example character, and there’s a pleasant courtyard Lauo Tien Lu Restaurant (Lawt Tin Lu) This is the
in an empty dirt lot west of town, just off of Shan-style palace architecture in Myan- out front. longest-running and most reliable Chinese
the road leading to Taunggyi. It’s interesting mar. The stucco-and-teak structure com- Shein Tip Hotel (%22208; Airport Rd; s/d US$7/14) restaurant in town – it’s a branch of one
to observe groups of men huddled around bined Buddhist temple–style pavilions and Across the street from Naung Kham lake, owned by the same family in Thailand’s
these large beasts, grilling their owners as Islamic-looking domes. Despite protests to Shein Tip is a large green building set back Chiang Khong. It’s a simple, open-sided res-
if they were dealing with used-car dealers. preserve the building, the Myanmar govern- from the road. Loads of potted plants at the taurant with good southern Chinese food.
Water buffalo cost from US$200 to US$500 ment demolished the palace in 1991 to make entrance disguise the fact that inside the Golden Banyan Restaurant (Shwe Nyaung Bin, Ton
each – shipping is not included. way for the unsightly Kyaing Tong Hotel. hotel are bare-bones concrete rooms, fre- Pho Thong) Kengtung’s second-most-popular
On the road leading towards Taunggyi, All that’s left of the old palace are the walls quented by truck drivers. Some rooms have Chinese restaurant is near Wat Chiang Jan
the British-era Roman Catholic Mission (RCM) and a sentinel tower on the hotel’s perim- squat toilets, while others have Western- (Keng San). Its main feature is the outdoor
and the 12-year-old Immaculate Heart Cathe- eter. To get an idea of what the old palace style toilets. tables beneath a huge banyan tree. The food
dral are still thriving on a hillside where the domes looked like, check out the Mausoleum is only fair, but the atmosphere makes up
original town was founded 1000 years ago. of the Khün Princes, opposite Wat Chiang Jan. MIDRANGE for it.
Visitors are welcome. The mission cares for The compound is walled in and visitors are Princess Hotel (%21319; fax 21159; s US$20-25, d Quickly Café (Airport Rd) This modern student
nearly 100 orphaned boys, many from Shan not allowed inside, but you can get a good US$28-35; a) This three-storey place, just hang-out serves up coffee, tea, snacks, pop
State hill tribes. view from the monastery on the other side south of Paleng Gate, was once probably music and movie-star posters.
of the road. the most comfortable in town; today its
MONASTERIES & TEMPLES rooms are fading, though they have satellite Getting There & Away
Kengtung’s many well-kept monasteries – Sleeping TV, air-con, fridge and phone. Like most AIR
called wats rather than kyaung by the Khün – Most hotels offer an airport pick-up service modern hotels in this part of Myanmar, Air Mandalay (AM) and Yangon Airways
reflect Shan, Siamese, Burmese and Chinese if you make reservations. Rooms are scarce the amenities come at a price – this place (YA) fly between Kengtung and Tachileik
influences. during the Chinese New Year festivities at is quite lacking in atmosphere. (US$30 with YA; US$41 with AM), Man-
The most impressive is Wat Jong Kham the beginning of February and during the Private Hotel (%21438; www.ktgprivatehotel.com; dalay (both airlines US$92) and Yangon
(Zom Kham), which features a tall gilded mid-April Water Festival. 5 Airport Rd; s/d US$30/35) Another hotel on the (both airlines US$138). AM flies this circuit
stupa topped by a gold hti (pinnacle of a way in from the airport, the Private Hotel twice a week on Monday and Wednesday.
stupa) inlaid with silver, rubies, diamonds, BUDGET is popular with package tourists. There are YA flies five days a week.
sapphires and jade, and hung with tiny gold Harry’s Trekking House (%21418; 132 Mai Yang Rd, seven cottages in the garden, and double
bells. Legend says that Wat Jong Kham Kanaburoy Village; r US$3-15) At the northern end rooms have tiled floors, windows and small BUS & PICK-UP
dates back to a visit by Gautama Buddha of town, 500m north of Naung Pha Gate, verandas. The 456km road between Kengtung and
and that the stupa contains six strands of this backpacker-oriented hotel is owned by Travellers who wish to avoid govern- Taunggyi is off limits to foreigners. At the
his hair. Most likely the site dates back to Harry, an English-speaking Kengtung native ment-owned hotels should bypass the Kya- moment only citizens of Myanmar are per-
the 13th-century Chiang Mai migration. who spent many years as a trekking guide in ing Tong Hotel. mitted to use this road, and they travel in
The temple has been substantially renovated Chiang Mai. A newly built modern annexe convoys. Officials claim robbery and con-
and regilded since then. Wat Jong Kham is has eight immaculate rooms with private Eating tinued fighting between the Yangon gov-
north of the town centre. bathroom and great views of the surround- Seik Tie Kye Restaurant (Best Choice;%21387; Airport ernment and the Shan and Pa-O insurgents
Right in the centre of town are a couple ing countryside from the rooftop. There are Rd; dishes K1200; h11am-10pm) The English trans- make the Kengtung–Taunggyi journey too
of busy and visually striking 19th-century also basic small wooden bungalows, and lation is not an empty boast – Seik Tie Kye is hazardous to risk. However, since both the
temples, Wat Pha Jao Lung (Maha Myat Muni) larger rooms with porches for three to four the best restaurant in Kengtung. On offer are Shan under Khün Sa and the Pa-O have
and Wat Ho Kong. Aficionados of rare Buddha people. Hot water is hit or miss. For insom- hotpots and other Chinese and Thai dishes. signed reconciliation agreements with the
images will have a field day at Wat In, named niacs there’s a daily early-morning market The chicken with bean-curd hotpot (K6000) government, the continued cultivation of
after the Hindu god Indra. Behind the altar (5am to 8am) on the road right in front of is very good and enough for three or four. opium and the production of metham-
of the principal sanctuary is a must-see col- Harry’s. Cheaper rooms don’t include break- Seik Tie Kye also has good ice cream. Service phetamines in some areas seem more likely
lection of wooden Buddha images. Wat In fast. Harry can arrange all manner of trips to is super attentive. Big groups should order reasons to keep foreigners away.
is on a hill overlooking the lake. surrounding villages. dishes at least an hour in advance.
Construction on Yat Thaw Mu, the com- New Sam Yweat Guest House (%21643; Airport Mingalar Restaurant (Naung Kham Rd) Heading Mae Sai/Tachileik
manding-looking standing Buddha that Rd; s/d US$7/14) Directly opposite Seik Tie Kye out of town via Airport Rd, take the right im- If you’re coming to Kengtung from Thai-
points out over Naung Tung lake, was com- Restaurant, this guesthouse looks some- mediately after Naung Kham lake to find this land through Mae Sai (see p203), you’ll find
pleted in 2002. what neglected. The bamboo bungalows restaurant specialising in Shan cuisine. Meals that the Myanmar government and local
On a hill to the south of town, Wat Pha look extremely nice from the outside but are served in small private bungalows. The tour agents and drivers have conspired to
That Jom Mon features an older wood-and- are basic inside, though the bathrooms are grilled fish (K2000) is enough for two. make it difficult for travellers to ride the
plaster sanctuary with good tinwork. The nice and modern. Lok Thar Restaurant (chicken & pork dishes K1000) Tachileik–Kengtung bus at local prices. Ar-
surrounding hillside provides good views Noi Yee Hotel (%21144; 5 Myaing Yaung Rd; s/d For hefty servings of Chinese and Thai food, ranging a ride to Kengtung must be done
of the town below. US$5/10) A former royal residence, the Noi try Lok Thar, a banquet-style place with a through an agent. This can be accomplished
One of the great sights in Kengtung was Yee has seen better days. The rooms are a very spacious 2nd floor. The spicy Thai-style at the small tourist office next to the immi-
to be once the large Haw Sao Pha Kengtung, tad grubby, but the façade at least has some soup is enough for two. gration checkpoint at the border crossing
200 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • A r o u n d K e n g t u n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • M o n g L a 201
or at the bus station, where a line of agent’s for groups of three or more). Overnight MONG LA turned establishment figure and head of
offices is located. Either way, you will have stays in villages are not officially permit- miu='"l;" the Eastern Shan State Army (ESSA), who
to complete a form that the driver will show ted, though several travellers report having About 85km north of Kengtung lies the declared – to widespread disbelief – that the
on demand at any of the five roadblocks set done so. Because most of the more inter- border district of Mong La (or Mengla, as area around Mong La was henceforth to be
up between Tachileik and Kengtung. esting villages are far outside town at the it’s sometimes spelt). Although Mong La is an ‘opium-free zone’. This may be some-
Foreign passengers are asked to pay in end of rough dirt roads, hiking directly to mainly a Thai Lü district, in a deal worked what accurate, as opium has been replaced
Thai baht or US dollars and are charged them is not feasible even if you somehow out with the Myanmar military it’s controlby methamphetamine as the region’s most
US$6 for a seat on the bus, US$14 for a back knew where to find them. A few are within led by ethnic Wa, who once fought against lucrative illicit drug. Poppy plants are on
seat in a Toyota Corolla ‘van’, or US$17 for cycling distance. Yangon troops but now enjoy peaceful display in the museum garden.
the front seat. The trip takes around three A trip with a vehicle is thus the way to relations with the government. Myanmar Many of the paya in Mong La have been
to four hours over a recently paved road go, even if costs are substantially higher appears willing to relinquish sovereignty built in the past 10 years as part of the ef-
through scenes of some of the worst defor- than to other places in Shan territory such if it means adding cash – cold, hard yuan forts of the State Peace and Development
estation in Southeast Asia, as well as nu- as Kalaw and Inle. The villages here are less (Y) from Chinese casino tourism – to the Council (SPDC) to convert the border areas
merous Akha, Wa and Shan villages. Along exposed to foreigners, though there’s a real government coffers. to Buddhism.
the way the main rest stops are Talay, a small unevenness to the level of development be- Mong La is entirely Chinese, from the
town with interesting Shan temples and an tween villages only a few minutes apart. modern oversized buildings to the currency Sleeping & Eating
army post, and the village of Mong Hpayak, One Akha village, for example, may have used; hardly any Burmese is spoken, which There are several modern hotels spread
the most popular food stop. running water and even limited electricity, makes sense since hardly any Myanmar out along the main road, none accustomed
Leaving Kengtung for Tachileik is gener- while an Eng village within shouting dis- people live here. Seventeen daily flights to dealing with non–Chinese or English-
ally easier to arrange and less expensive. tance has neither. Ask your guide whether from other parts of China arrive at the air- speaking tourists. Rooms at the Bai Lai
Toyota pick-ups leave when full from 5am certain goods such as medicines are appro- port not far away on the Chinese side of the Hotel and Paradise Hotel are good value
to noon (K7500 per person). Buses leave priate gifts. border, ferrying tourists who come to pe- at Y60. You can also stay with the district
when full from 6am to noon and cost ruse Mong La’s well-known wildlife market headman in his Thai Lü-style house for
K4000 per person. Hot Springs and to gamble in the district’s casinos. One around Y30 – a more interesting experi-
West of town on the road to Tachileik is a of the largest and plushest is the Oriental ence, though difficult to arrange.
Mong La large public hot-springs spa complex (r small/ Hotel & Casino, a big pink complex visible Kaw Hlaing Restaurant, on the road that
For information, see opposite. large K300/600; h3-8pm). The bathhouses them- from almost anywhere in the city. Inside loops above the main thoroughfare, has a
selves are small, narrow rooms with bathtubs are the usual Chinese and Western games munu in English. On offer are basic chicken,
Getting Around and a spigot to control the volume of water. of chance – the setup is that typically seen pork, rice and noodle dishes.
Kengtung has a small fleet of motorcycle Shampoo, soap and small towels are avail- in Macau and on cruise ships in the South
taxis – the drivers wear numbered coloured able for sale, so this is a great spot to clean China Sea. Getting There & Away
vests – that charge around K200 for a ride up if you’re staying at one of the cold-water The casinos look grand and impressive To go to Mong La from Kengtung you must
within town and K300 for longer rides, guesthouses in town. It’s also a nice way to from far away, but upon closer inspection register at the Kengtung immigration of-
such as from Harry’s Trekking House to wind down after a long day off-roading in a the dirty carpets and chipped paint make fice. The staff at Harry’s Trekking House
the town centre. four-wheel drive. Vendors on the grounds them seem more like buildings Beijing (see p198) can help independent travellers
A car or motorcycle taxi from the airport sell noodles and other snacks, so you could forgot. The hivelike activity, the swarms accomplish this. You must first arrange a
costs around K500. Some hotels might hire easily spend an entire afternoon here. The of workers wearing spiffy uniforms on the seat in one of the Toyota pick-ups (K5000
out motorcycles – an exhilarating way to spa is busiest at weekends. A taxi from town streets during a shift change at the casinos, to K6500) that idle around in the lot behind
explore the town and surroundings. Note costs around K500 each way, and drivers are the buzz and clink of yuan being wagered the Wat Chiang Jan and Kyi Lin Star Guest
that helmets may not be on offer. willing to wait. at the gaming tables – it all produces an un- House. The driver will then accompany you
canny sense of a displaced land overlooked to the immigration office, where officials will
AROUND KENGTUNG Loi-mwe by time and national boundaries. comb through files of important-looking car-
Villages liâŸ='mVy' The casino parking lots hold more late- bon-copy documents, one of which contains
Visiting nearby villages, where most of the Although it lies a little outside the permit- model private cars than you’re likely to see in information about you. More information is
residents still lead very traditional lives but ted radius, no-one seems to care if you visit all of Myanmar. The broad main thorough- then added by large and ancient typewriters
are warm and welcoming to visitors, is a Loi-mwe, 33km southeast of Kengtung. fare, of the kind suited as much to military (and the long wait for the process to be com-
highlight of any trip to Kengtung. Trips to At over 1600m, this hill station features a parades as to local traffic, divides the town. pleted may cause you to entertain Bourne
nearby Lahu (Musoe), Akha (Kaw), Akhu number of old colonial buildings and over The casinos and market are on one side, Supremacy–like fantasies about the potential
(from Yunnan Province in China), Eng, a century-old Catholic church. The main while most of the housing and small shops of these typewriters as aids in an escape at-
Palaung, Shan, and Wa villages are permit- attraction, though, is the scenery on the are on the other. There are also plenty of tempt). Your driver will then be handed a
ted in the company of a guide. Guides can ascent to Loi-mwe, which passes through karaoke venues, discos (including a thriving copy of a document that will later be used
be arranged at most of Kengtung’s hotels forests, terraced rice fields and a lake. You’ll gay and transvestite scene) and other staples to admit you to Myanmar (hey, it’s the way
for around US$25 per person per day; this have to hire a car or motorcycle, as there of modern Chinese entertainment life. it works). It’s probably best to let the driver
price also generally includes transport in a doesn’t seem to be any regular public trans- During 1997 a Drug Eradication Museum was hold on to this, since he bears responsibility
4WD (rates drop substantially per person port between Kengtung and Loi-mwe. opened by U Sai Lin, a local Wa/Chinese for your safe conveyance. At some point in
202 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S • • Ta c h i l e i k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O 203
this process, visit the Kengtung market to Kengtung to the north rather than linger
change kyat or dollars to yuan. here, but it’s possible to arrange a one-day KAYAH STATE
There are two checkpoints on the road pass to visit Tachileik from Thailand. Be- At the time of research, travel to Kayah State for foreigners was still not permitted, and there
from Kengtung to Mong La. The second, sides shopping for Shan handicrafts (about was no prospect of the situation changing anytime in the near future. This small state is wedged
not far from Mong La, requires you to pay the same price as on the Thai side – everyone between Shan State to the north and west, Karen State to the west and south, and Thailand to
a Y36 (US$5) entrance fee. There’s one final accepts baht) and eating Shan/Bamar food, the east. Eight ethnic groups reside in this mountainous region, including the Taungthu, Padaung,
hoop to jump through. You must register – there’s little to do in Tachileik. Most of the Yinbaw, Bre, and Kayah, who form the majority.
which involves more signatures and several 3000 or so people who cross the bridge to Until the early 1990s, Kayah rebel groups controlled much of the eastern half of the state. The
rubber stamps to another carbon copy – at Tachileik daily are Thais who shop for dried Myanmar government has concentrated on securing the capital, Loikaw, and the very important
the Mong La immigration office. This is mushrooms, herbal medicines, cigarettes and hydroelectric plant at nearby Lawpita. A ceasefire agreement allowed the government to build
nothing more than a desk (staffed by a man other cheap imports from China. A steady a railway between Aungban and Loikaw. Fighting continues, though; as late as November 2004
who’s often in pyjamas, regardless of the trickle of VIPs from Thailand crosses the bor- there were reports of a government military offensive in the area and thousands of Karenni
time of day) in a small, nondescript house der to gamble at the large Golden Triangle families fleeing for the Thai border.
on a muddy side street that’s impossible Casino outside town on the Mekong River.
to find on your own. The entire journey
from the Kengtung immigration office to Sleeping BORDER CROSSING Thailand to Myanmar
the Mong La immigration office takes any- If crossing the border into Thailand is an At the time of research the Mae Sai–Tachileik A day pass from Thailand to Tachileik costs
where from three to four hours, going up option, you’ll find the accommodation there border was open except for a few days during US$5, which you pay to Myanmar immi-
and over mountain switchback roads and better in every respect. All hotels in Tachileik the October 2004 coup. In general you can gration officials at the border crossing. If
passing through breathtaking scenery and accept both US dollars and Thai baht (B). expect to be able to cross here – although, you hold a day pass you’re restricted to a ra-
several isolated villages. Dream Flower Hotel (%21318; Padonmar Rd; r as with much else in Myanmar, this is de- dius of 5km. There’s a very cursory customs
The procedure is repeated in the opposite US$5/200B) Just south of the main intersection pendent on the shifting political and secu- check on the Thai side. Upon your return,
direction, minus the entrance fee. You’re in town, this hotel has clean, if somewhat rity situation. Thai officials will stamp your passport with
expected to hand one of the documents to noisy, rooms with attached bathroom. The Mae Sai–Tachileik border is usually another 30-day visa.
the Kengtung immigration office upon your The Mya Shwe Ye Hotel (%51792; 3/52 Mya Shwe open from 6am to 6pm on weekdays (be You can also enter Myanmar from Tachi-
return, but if you’re pressed for time or sim- Ye St; r US$18/600B; a) and the Kanne Hotel (r 200- aware that Thailand time is half an hour leik on a 14-day pass (150B, US$10), which
ply want to avoid the hassle it seems possible 800B) have decent rooms. ahead of Myanmar time), and from 6am to you can get at the border, but this only
to skip this step. The Golden Triangle Hotel, on a hill 9pm on weekends and holidays. The early permits you to go to Kengtung and Mong
The obvious question is: can you cross the overlooking the town, is probably the most closing time on weekdays can be a problem La (on the Chinese border).
border from Mong La into Daluo, China? comfortable place in Tachileik but is gov- if you’re driving from Kengtung, given the If you want to enter at Tachileik and go
So far the only third-country nationals that ernment owned. unpredictability of road travel in Myanmar. on to Inle Lake, Mandalay, Yangon, Bagan
have been able to cross here have done so in In Mae Sai, on the Thailand side of the and so on, you’ll need to arrange the visa
‘caravans’ – with off-road aficionados who border, the Mae Sai Guesthouse on the river Myanmar to Thailand in Bangkok prior to your trip and then fly
pay the Chinese and Myanmar governments is recommended. In general, travellers report not having diffi- west from Tachileik or Kengtung. If you
large sums for permission to cross here. culties crossing from Myanmar to Thailand. enter with a Foreign Independent Traveller
Getting There & Away However, if you have an expired Myanmar (FIT) visa, you get a 28-day entry-permit
TACHILEIK Yangon Airways and Myanma Airways visa you’ll probably not be allowed to cross. stamp and can travel around Myanmar ex-
t;xIYlit' stop in Tachileik as part of their daily route On the whole, travel agents and certainly actly as if you’d flown in. A word of caution:
%084 to/from Kengtung, Heho, Mandalay and government officials will tell you the border travellers report being turned away at the
Most travellers who come to Myanmar Yangon. For details of road travel to/from is either not open in this direction or that in border if their Myanmar visa was obtained
from Mae Sai in Thailand head straight for Kengtung, see p199. order to cross you must make arrangements online.
through a travel agent and pay through the
nose. Unless the political and security situ-
CROSSING THE BORDER TO LAOS
About 19km northeast of Tachileik on the Tachileik–Kengtung road, a smaller road branches off
ation changes, which it always can, this is
simply incorrect.
PYIN U LWIN TO LASHIO
from the Nam Manyang road and heads east-southeast to the Mekong River, the border between You can get a 30-day Thai visa at Mae Sai The road from Mandalay to Lashio is a rib-
Laos and Myanmar. At the small town here, Wan Pasak, you can get a boat across the river to on arrival, or you can arrive at the border bon of hairpin bends crisscrossing the Shan
Xieng Kok in Laos. From Xieng Kok there’s a road northeast from Muang Sing, which connects with a 60-day Thai visa arranged in Yangon. Plateau and passing through Pyin U Lwin
with roads to Luang Nam Tha and Udomxai. You might be permitted to cross into Laos here if When you exit, officials will fill out a bit of before descending into the Gokteik Gorge,
you already possess a valid Lao visa. Then again, you might not! Much depends on the local paperwork and make three copies of your the railway viaduct visible in the distance.
political situation, obviously, as well as the mood of local officials. It’s not a legal international passport (10B). The paperwork takes about The market towns between Gokteik and
border crossing, yet plenty of Burmese and Lao do use it. Sooner or later, however, this could half an hour. On the Thai side there will be Lashio, only pit stops for truckers plying
become an official crossing for all nationalities. The one thing that does seem certain is that you long line of day-trippers if you cross after the main China–Myanmar trade route, are
cannot enter Myanmar from Laos at this border. Then again… 3pm. The entire border-crossing process gems for travellers wishing to get off the
takes approximately an hour. beaten track. Those interested in more than
204 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • P y i n U L w i n 205
the glittering pagodas that exist everywhere Sights PYIN U LWIN 0

0
500 m
0.3 miles
in Myanmar will discover cool mountain NATIONAL KANDAWGYI GARDENS
settlements – architectural mishmashes of amY¬i'"s;"kn'et;'äkI"wyY;w' A B C D
bygone eras and more contemporary utili- Run by the Woodland Group (a Singaporean INFORMATION Golden Dream Hotel................ 10 B3 SHOPPING
tarian Myanmar structures – and the strik- joint venture), this formerly government- Hospital..................................... 1 B4
Police Station.............................2 B3
Grace Hotel 1.......................... 11
Grace Hotel 2.......................... 12
B4
B3
Central Market........................ 20 B3
La Vie Art Gallery..................(see 20)
ing mountain scenery that rises up beyond run 176-hectare garden (%22130; admission 1 Shwe Htay Internet....................3 B3 Kandawgyi Lodge.................... 13 C5 Night Market...........................21 B3
them. K2000, camera/video fee K200/K1000; h8am-5pm) fea- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Royal Parkview Hotel.............. 14 C5 Pacific World Curio..................22 B3
Shan Market........................... 23 C3
tures the rich life of 482 species of local Chinese Temple........................ 4 D4 EATING
PYIN U LWIN and foreign trees (including the ginkgo Church of the Immaculate Aung Padamya Restaurant...... 15 D3 TRANSPORT
¨p='wI"lâ=' tree, which is extinct elsewhere) and 250
Conception........................... 5
Nan Myint Tower......................6
C3
B5
Diamond Confectionary...........16
Golden Triangle
B3 Pick-ups to Hsipaw & Lashio....24 B3
Pick-ups to Mandalay & Lashio..25 B3
Purcell Tower.............................7 B3 Café & Bakery........................17 B4 Share-Taxi Stand..................... 26 B3
%085 species of orchids from around Myanmar. Htate Tan Restaurant.............. 18 C3 TMD.....................................(see 26)
Few places in Myanmar evoke the vibe of British botanists began building the garden SLEEPING Lay Ngoon Restaurant............. 19 B3 Win Yadana..........................(see 26)
April Inn.................................... 8 D5
the British colonial era such as the hill-town in 1915. Dahlia Motel............................. 9 C5 To Lashio
resort of Pyin U Lwin. In the cool foothills Admission to the garden includes use Shwe Myan
2 Tin Paya
here (elevation 1050m), 69km east of Man- of the inviting L-shaped pool near the en- To Mandalay Train
dalay, stately colonial-era buildings on the trance. View-hounds can walk up to a new Station
To Naung Kan Cantonese
Football
Pitch
U Chanti
Paya
town’s main street house Nepali tea houses Nan Myint Tower, where you can climb 10
Statio
Gyi Paya Temple
or sweater shops, and country cottages sit flights of stairs, or take an air-conditioned
nR
y Rd
Aung To Mya Nanda
d
on grassy plots outside town. Some old lift for K1000. There’s a small stupa on a Chantha Hotel (2km); Pwe
w
18
a H
Methodist Paya Kauk Falls (7km);
homes, like the famous Candacraig (im- picturesque islet on the central lake, and Church 2 Peik Chin
yY
Myaing (26km)
mortalised in Paul Theroux’s The Great elevated forest walks. The garden is popular
Za
23
ng
Railway Bazaar, which makes a stop here) with picnicking familles on weekends and
Au
16 19 Football
are now government-run hotels. Trotting holidays. A couple of teashops serve snacks 26
5th St Shwezigone Pitch
3 Paya 15
through it all are pony-led colourful mini- and drinks. 3 Bo
gy
Mosque ok
ature wagons that look like replicas from 10
24 eL
an
25 St Matthew's
the Wells Fargo days of the American West. CHINESE TEMPLE 12
7
Kachin Baptist
21 Church
More importantly, it’s about 6ºC or 7ºC Built by Yunnanese immigrants, the col- 22 Hindu
Temple Zeig
20
cooler than in Mandalay. ourful Chinese temple is unlike other Bud- yo L
an 5
Monastery
Much of the town’s populace is decked out dhist sites you’ll see in Myanmar. It’s home 17 Cinema
in various fatigues – including camouflaged to an orphanage and nursing home within Rd

) Church
tennis shoes – but not everyone is military. the compound. The shoe-friendly grounds d
(M
ain
1
R
Rd
Many shops cater to the clothing needs of include a six-storey tower with seating y-L
a shio
ar
ala
ul
4 4
the cadets at the nearby Defence Services areas that are frequently used as hang-out and
rc
M
Ci
ὈὈ
Academy. spots for betel-nut chewers, studying teens 11
Ziw
To Anisakan Falls (8km);
Peak season in Pyin U Lwin (particularly and couples. Some Chinese-script students
aka
Tonbo (50km);
St
Mandalay (69km)
La
for domestic travellers) coincides with the study calligraphy here. ing
n
ya Gandamar Myaing Thiri Myaing
M
hottest months elsewhere: March, April Nann Myaing Na
n Hotel (Croxton) Hotel (Candacraig)
Hotel (Craddock Court) 14
and May. PURCELL TOWER
On the main road in the town centre, the La
n 9
History
ὈὈ
Sandar
Purcell Tower was a present from Queen Vic- Pyin U Lwin Lake
Nandar Lan
Ein
Golf Club da
Originally a small Shan Danu village, Pyin toria, who offered an identical tower to w
St
U Lwin was renamed Maymyo (May-town) Cape Town, South Africa. Another version 5
8
in 1887 after British Colonel May, of the 5th of the story has it that the clock was made
Bengal Infantry, who was stationed here. in 1934 and paid for by a Mr Purcell, a resi- National 6
Kandawgyi To National
From 1896 Pyin U Lwin was a British hill dent of Mandalay who was descended from Gardens Kandawgyi Kandawgyi Gardens
13
Lake Entrance (100m)
station, and during those colonial days an Armenian traders. What’s known for sure is
influx of south Asians moved here. Today that the tower’s chime still copies Big Ben,
more than 5000 Nepalis and 10,000 Indians playing 16 notes before the hour. Sleeping IN TOWN
live in the town. Few of the hotels in the town centre are Rooms in town tend to be basic cheapies. All
Activities licensed to accommodate foreigners. The rates include breakfast. Most rooms don’t
Information On the southern edge of town, the Pyin most relaxing options – many are midrange have a fan.
Shwe Htay Internet (per min K25; h8am-9pm) Get U Lwin Golf Club (green fee incl clubs & shoes US$15; hotels – are to be found south and south- Grace Hotel 1 (%21230; 114A Nan Myaing Rd; s/d
online at this small shop opposite the share-taxi stand. h7am-dusk) is a fairly well-maintained 18- west of town along rolling roads lined by US$5/10) A couple of blocks south of the main
International calls (about K1250 per minute) can be made hole course. It hosts the annual Water Fes- trees often covered in bright-yellow and red strip, this hotel has a garden out the front
here too. tival Golf Cup in April (see p340). blossoms. and more character than the others. The
206 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • A r o u n d P y i n U L w i n 207
state of the basic rooms (which have private venture includes suites in a converted 1921 Several snack shops sell Indian goodies, PICK-UP & TAXI
bathroom) may depend on the smoking English lodge and new bungalows in the but the best is near the taxi stand. The Dia- By far the easiest way to/from Mandalay
habits of the previous occupants. garden outside. All accommodation faces mond Confectionary (Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h6am-9pm) or Hsipaw is by share taxi. There’s a small
Golden Dream Hotel (%21302; 42/43 Mandalay- Kandawgyi lake, and guests get free entry serves coconut and, despite its sugary name, share-taxi stand on Mandalay–Lashio Rd,
Lashio Rd; s without/with bathroom US$3/4, d US$8/6) Run to the nearby National Kandawgyi Gardens. mutton puffs (K70) among other snacks. north of the main strip. TMD (%21090), on the
by a pleasant Indian family, this 1st-floor Putting peace first, there are no TVs or stand’s west side, handles taxis to Mandalay
hotel above a sweater shop has old but clean phones in the rooms. Shopping (K3500, two hours); Win Yadana (%22490), on
rooms. Those with shared bathroom have a Mya Nan Dar Hotel (%21922; s/d US$15/20) To- ART & ANTIQUES the east, sends them to Hsipaw (K4500, three
desk and those with private bathroom are at wards Lashio, about 2km northeast of town, Pacific World Curio (75 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h7.30am- hours) and Lashio (K5000, four hours). It’s
the back; all come with a fan. this hotel has good rooms with balcony, 5.30pm) The aisles of this excellent handicrafts K500 extra for the front seat. Share taxis tend
Grace Hotel 2 (%22081; 46/48 Mandalay-Lashio TV, desk, fan, carpeted floors and private and antique shop – open for nearly four to run from 7am to 2pm or 3pm. Hiring the
Rd; s without/with private bathroom US$4/5, d US$10/8) bathroom with hot water. The area is nice, decades – spill over with Shan wooden whole taxi is about K20,000.
Grace’s second location is friendly but a but it’s not equal to the south of town for masks, kalaga (embroidered tapestries), White pick-ups wait near the Purcell To-
little musty. Rooms at the front have a bal- atmosphere. marionettes, old British clocks, lacquerware wer along the Mandalay–Lashio Rd, going
cony. Rooms include two low beds and a Those keen on avoiding government-run and other objects. when full to Mandalay (K1000, 2½ hours).
small desk. All showers have hot water. hotels should bypass these (otherwise gor- La Vie Art Gallery (No 7-8, AM Block, Central Market; Pick-ups going to both Hsipaw (K2000) and
geous) places converted from old British h9am-5pm) Run by English-speaking artist Lashio (K3500) leave at 6am only from the
OUTSIDE TOWN – BUDGET homes: the Thiri Myaing Hotel (Candacraig), Muu Muu, this tiny gallery, which faces the banyan tree, opposite the share-taxi stand.
Dahlia Motel (%22255, 09-20 44153; s US$5-12, d US$10- the Gandamar Myaing Hotel (Croxton) and street on the south side of the market, hangs
18) This traveller-oriented motel, run by an the Nan Myaing Hotel (Craddock Court). modern renderings of Myanmar scenes. TRAIN
outgoing ‘rock-and-roll Muslim’ (ie ‘drinks At the time of research, the little red-brick
beer, eats pork sometimes’) is an excellent Eating LOCAL PRODUCTS train station (% 22021) was sending slow
choice. Its cheapest rooms, in the older wing, Many hotels have restaurants that nonguests Pyin U Lwin’s temperate climate aids the trains daily to Mandalay at 5am and 4pm
have TV and private bathroom; the bigger can enjoy. There are many very basic Chi- growth of many vegetables and flowers. (ordinary/1st class US$2/4, four hours), and
rooms in the newer wing have bigger TVs nese restaurants on the side streets north Strawberry fields in the hills around the one north to Hsipaw (US$2/4, six hours) at
and shiny tiled floors. The staff can lead day and south of Mandalay–Lashio Rd around town have made strawberry jam a big local 8.30am. The stretch between Pyin U Lwin
treks to Shan villages (US$8). To get to the the clock tower. product. Strawberry season runs from Feb- and Hsipaw takes in areas the road misses
hotel, take the first right after Royal Parkview Golden Triangle Café & Bakery (%24288; Mandalay- ruary to April. You’ll often see flower stalls and is particularly beautiful.
and then turn left at the next fork. Lashio Rd; sandwiches & pizzas K1400-1800; h7am-10pm) on the roads outside town. Trains frequently run late. There are a
April Inn (%21918; 51F Eindaw St; s/d US$8/16) It’s not your average day in Myanmar when At the central market you can get local few food stalls outside the station.
Over 1km from the ring road, April Inn you find this place. This lovely café, run by jam (about K250), plus a sweet strawberry
features six bungalows, each with private an American, occupies a grand building, and wine (K800) and grape wine (K600). One Getting Around
bathroom, TV, twin beds and a porch for has wicker seats on the covered deck and vendor explained the jam-making process: Hotels can arrange bike rental for K1000
your breakfast. By day the only noise comes a French-style bakery inside. A real cup of ‘clean strawberries, mix in an equal amount or K2000 per day. Pyin U Lwin’s horse-led
from farmers’ hoes in the coffee plot; by espresso is K400. of sugar, heat for two hours, store for 18 wagons are another popular means of get-
night you may hear some wailing from the Aung Padamya Restaurant (dishes K800; h11am- months, sell jam’. ting about; a sample fare between the centre
karaoke bar (but it winds down before mid- 8pm) Nestled into a neighbourhood a couple Owing to the cool nights here, sweaters and Kandawgyi Gardens is K1500 to K2000.
night). Insects happen. If you’re biking, it’s of blocks south of the Shan market, this are another popular locally made product. A taxi from the centre to a hotel outside
easy to get lost after dark. (Take a right at simple Indian restaurant serves chicken, You’ll find them hanging outside stores on town is about K1000 or K1500.
the fork by the Dahlia Motel, then watch for mutton, fish and veggie curries that come Mandalay–Lashio Rd. Organic coffee made
a sign on the left after 200m or so.) with poppadom and rice. Staff might show in the nearby hills at the Golden Triangle AROUND PYIN U LWIN
off photos taken at Candacraig. Café & Bakery (opposite) is also available; a Most of Pyin U Lwin’s natural attractions
OUTSIDE TOWN – MIDRANGE Lay Ngoon Restaurant (4 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; 200g box of beans or grounds costs K1700. are outside town. Most can be reached by
Royal Parkview Hotel (%22647; standard s/d US$25/ dishes K1200-2200; h8am-9pm) Known all over The smaller Shan market, on the northeast a combination of public transport and hik-
30, superior s US$30, d US$35; ai) For those look- town as being too expensive, the basic, edge of town, is busiest in the morning. ing, though many visitors prefer to hire a
ing for comfort, the Royal is a heck of a deal. nearly dingy Lay Ngoon nevertheless fills share taxi (and possibly a guide) in Pyin U
These 20 stylish wood-floor rooms are set its tables and wooden booths nightly with Getting There & Away Lwin. Ask at your hotel, the Golden Tri-
on lush grounds, just outside the ring road, local families. The food is definitely good, At the time of research, there were plans to angle Café & Bakery (opposite) or Pacific
and sometimes fill up in advance. Cheaper but it’s priced as advertised. build an airport near Pyin U Lwin. World Curio (left).
rooms have no air-con and a shower instead Htate Tan Restaurant (No 50, 11A Rd) Locals rush
of a bathtub. There’s a small restaurant. here (a block north of the traffic circle by the BUS Anisakan Falls
Kandawgyi Lodge (%21839, in Yangon %01- Shan market) for excellent Shan food. Pyin U Lwin has no bus station and an ir- anI'"cxn'" e7t®xVn'
202071; fax 22497; www.woodlandgroups.com; Nandar Rd; For after-dark snacks and noodles, the regular bus service. It’s difficult, but perhaps Although a fairly long and steep walk is re-
bungalows s/d US$40/50, ste s/d US$50/60) Opened night market (along Zeigyo Lán, north of possible, to hail a bus going between Man- quired to get to the tall, lovely falls (admission
in 2002, this classy retro Singapore joint the central market) gets going at dusk. dalay and Hsipaw; ask at your hotel. free), the hike there is worth it. At the village
208 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • A r o u n d P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • K y a u k m e 209
of Anisakan, about 9km south of Pyin U Three Shan villages – Mogyopyit, Yechando While the area immediately around the be found at a large colonial-style mansion by
Lwin on the road to Mandalay, turn right and Ye Ngeye – can be visited on the way bridge is safe, don’t go wandering around – the train tracks just outside town (the sign
at the train station, continue about 600m to Pwe Kauk Falls. Alternatively, from Pwe land mines have reputedly been planted says ‘Weddings & Reception Restaurant’).
to the railway crossing, then turn left on a Kauk you can go on a one-hour hike to U in some areas to fend off insurgents who This place, known by locals as Dog’s Man-
dirt road and continue for about 800m to a Naung Gu, a natural cave containing several might want to destroy the span. You’ll only sion, has private modern karaoke rooms
fork, where you again take a left turn. After Buddhas that is used by local meditators. have a few minutes before you must get (K4000 per hour) and a restaurant-bar with
about 500m you reach a parking area from You can ask around at Pwe Kauk for a local back on the train if you’re continuing on to live music on some weekend nights. There
where you continue on foot. It’s a 45-minute guide to the cave. Hsipaw or Lashio. The military supposedly are plans to convert parts of the building into
descent through a river gorge to reach the Pick-ups bound for Hsipaw and Lashio forbids photo-taking from the bridge, but a hotel.
falls, which consist of five sections; the third only head this way at 6am from Pyin U everybody seems to do it. The same ap- From Mandalay there are early-morning
is particularly impressive. Lwin. It’s possible to hire a share taxi and plies for photography from the train when buses from around 5am to 6am (K2000,
Mandalay-bound pick-ups around the continue on to Peik Chin Myaing for about it approaches the bridge. Whether you’re six hours) that go to Kyaukme. If you get a
market and main road in Pyin U Lwin K8000. Cycling is another option, as the allowed to or not seems to depend entirely Hsipaw-bound bus you can also ask to be let
regularly go to Anisakan village for K300 shrine of the fallen Buddha is reached on a on the presence of a military officer in your off here. Alternatively, you can hire a share
per person. You should allow at least half a fairly level road. train car – and if the military officer is mo- taxi in Mandalay for roughly the same price
day for the whole trip. It’s possible to ride To visit the Shan villages, you can some- tivated enough to enforce the ban. that you would pay to go all the way to Hsi-
a bicycle there, but the ride back is more up times hire a bullock cart in Pwe Kauk. The paw (K6000 per person). From Kyaukme to
than down. A taxi from Pyin U Lwin costs Dahlia Motel in Pyin U Lwin (p206) arranges KYAUKME Mandalay there are several buses (K3000,
about K8000 to K10,000; a taxi with guide guided day trips. ekY;k'mE five hours) that leave when full early in the
is K15,000. Kyaukme sees a trickle of trail-blazing trav- morning. Note that fares are generally more
Gokteik Viaduct ellers with a do-it-yourself attitude. They’re expensive coming from Mandalay.
Pwe Kauk Falls gut'qip't®t;" looking to avoid the social scene in popu- Pick-ups leave regularly for Hsipaw (K200)
epâ"ek;k'ert®xân' The unusual Gokteik railway viaduct is 55km lar Hsipaw, rub shoulders with locals, and until around 4pm; a taxi will cost K10,000.
Called Hampshire Falls in British times, northeast of Pyin U Lwin, en route to explore the surrounding mountains and
Pwe Kauk Falls (admission free) are about 8km Lashio. When, on behalf of the British, the villages. There are several cigar- and paper- HSIPAW
northeast of town, off the road to Hsipaw. Pennsylvania Steel Co built the Gokteik making ‘factories’ in and around this com- oIep:
Although the falls themselves aren’t that Bridge over the deep Gokteik Gorge in 1903 pact town. %082
spectacular, they make a very pleasant picnic in only nine months, it was the second- Although there are no government prohi- The outside world feels very far away in
spot. During or just after the rainy season, highest railway bridge in the world. A Brit- bitions about foreigners trekking in this area, Hsipaw (Thibaw in Burmese). With its dra-
you can swim in the upper reaches, but not ish insurance policy expired years ago, but the lack of sanctioned guides and official matic sunsets, quaint small-town air and
at the bottom, where the undertow can be while it was in effect the Myanmar gov- information means the activity is frowned narrow footpaths snaking through rice
dangerous. ernment didn’t service the viaduct much; upon or at least discouraged. This makes paddies, travellers often get stuck here,
Facing the falls is the now-famous Aung Htu however, the bridge has recently been reno- it hard to guarantee anything before arriv- their itineraries thrown out of whack after
Kan Tha, a shrine housing a Buddha that fell vated. It’s the oldest and longest modern ing in Kyaukme, but it also means there are they arrive intending only to spend a day
here off a Buddha-laden China-bound truck railway bridge in Myanmar, and its age more options and greater flexibility in ar- or two. Days are happily confined to the
in April 1997. After the Buddha couldn’t be shows: trains slow to a crawl when cross- ranging an itinerary. Two intrepid travellers short distance that separates Mr Charles’s
hauled back on, the driver (conveniently!) ing the viaduct in order to avoid putting report having rented motorbikes from locals guesthouse from Mr Food’s restaurant,
claimed that the night before he had dreamt undue stress on the structure. and exploring the mountainous region for Mr Book’s bookshop and Mr Donald (the
that one of the Buddhas didn’t want to leave If you go by train, get off at the sta- two weeks. At the A Yone Oo Guest House nephew of the last Shan prince), and are oc-
Myanmar. tion before the bridge to get the best view. (below) ask for U Aung Gyi, a local English cupied by walks to the river or out of town
teacher/guide who can help organise trips to to one of the payas perched on a hillside.
remote, little-visited villages in the region. Some travellers generate theories to explain
TOP FIVE TREKKING AREAS IN NORTHEASTERN MYANMAR Only 11km from Kyaukme is Lwe Sar, where how Hsipaw maintains its bucolic atmos-
Kalaw (p176) The granddaddy as far as popularity. Most hikes are fun, allowed and not too demanding. Pindaya the Palaung still live a traditional way of life. phere as if it were a puzzle to decipher. Hsi-
and Inle Lake make for good overnight destinations. On the way to Lwe Sar is a beautiful lake paw was once the centre of a small Shan
called Naung Phe. State of its own, and its residents look on
Putao (p224) If you have the money and the time, go mountaineering in the remote Himalaya just north of
Besides the clean and comfortable A Yone Oo the groups of foreigners shuffling around
Putao – need we say more? Guest House (%082-40183; Shwe Phi Oo Rd; s/d with town with friendly smiles.
Namhsan (p213), Kyaukme (opposite) & Hsipaw (opposite) These three towns, listed with the most beautiful shared bathroom K4500/6000, with private bathroom K7500/
and remote first, are starting points for day trips or longer stays in surrounding villages. 12,000), there were no other facilities cater- Sights & Activities
Inle Lake (p181) Besides the trip to Kalaw, there are other destinations closer to Inle in the mountains on ing to foreigners at research time, though A haw sao pha (Shan palace; suggested donation US$1;
either shore. several locals harbour some vague tourism- hafter 4pm), known as sawbwa haw in Bur-
related ambitions. mese, still stands at the northern end of Hsi-
Kengtung area (p200) Get out of your 4WD and see hill-tribe villages on foot.
The young, hip and karaoke-inclined of paw. Built in 1924, the charming building
Kyaukme – not really a large group – may is European in design – a Shan-style palace
210 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • H s i p a w www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • H s i p a w 211
HSIPAW 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
is said that the sagawa hardwood tree grow- League for Democracy office, curiously lit
ing by the paya bends over at the top in up with ostentatious red lights.
A B To C D
Lashio deference to the paya. The place lost some Most days at about 8am, Mr Charles (see
To Bo Bo Gyi 17 (72km)
18 Nat Shrine (3km); 10
of its charm following renovations in 1995, below) leads a three-hour ‘morning excur-
Kantha Kyaung (4km) INFORMATION Hsipaw Nat Shrine.....................11 C4
Hospital........................................1 B3 Mahamyatmuni Paya.................12 A4
during which the building was redecor- sion’ to a village or nearby waterfall. In the
1 4
Police...........................................2 A1 Monastery..................................13 B2 ated to look less Shan and more Bamar, but high season, half-day boat trips (the cost
Post Office...................................3 B3 Morning Market.........................14 B3
Trekking
Route Telephone Office..........................4 B1 Mosque.....................................15 A3 its situation by the river still gives it some depends on the number of people), includ-
Mr Book Bookshop.....................16 B3 appeal. ing a visit to a kyaung, are also offered to
Ὀ
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Noodle Factory...........................17 B1
2
Bo Tree Nat Shrine.......................5 B2 Popcorn Factory.........................18 A1 On a hill to the left, just as you enter the guests. Overnight trips, and train and taxi
Cheroot Factory...........................6 B3 Sandal Factory............................19 B4 city limits of Hsipaw from Bawgyo, is the trips north or south, can be easily organised
13 Cheroot Factory...........................7 A3 School........................................20 A4
Cheroot Factory...........................8 B3 School........................................21 B4 overgrown and ruined mausoleum of the sao at Mr Charles Guest House.
Clock Tower.................................9
Haw Sao Pha (Shan Palace)........10
B3
B1
Sports Field................................22
Tea Traders................................23
B2
B3
pha of Hsipaw.
Hsipaw’s large central market is best in the Festivals & Events
Namtu Rd
Stream Zedi........................................... 24 A4
25
Awtha Rd morning, when Shan and other tribal peo- One of the oldest and largest Shan festivals,
Dok
36 SLEEPING
2 ple from nearby villages come to trade. The the Bawgyo Paya Pwe, is held in nearby Baw-
htaw
(Main Rd
Mr Charles/Myat Yatana Rest

House....................................25 A2
Dokhtawady River (also called the Myitnge gyo from the moon’s 10th waxing day to
ady
22 Nham Khae Mao Guest House...26 B3

or Namtu), just east of the market, is cool the first day after the full moon of Tabaung
Rive
)
Yamin Shwe Zin (Golden Doll/

Mr Kid) Guest House.............27 A3
and clear. (February/March). The Bawgyo pwe still
r
33
5 Approximate Scale
EATING To catch a great sunset in Hsipaw, walk to draws a large encampment of traders and
Train Ah Kong Kaik Restaurant...........28 A3
Station
16
Central
23 Burmese Cuisine.........................29 B3 either Five Buddha Hill or Nine Buddha Hill. festivalgoers who pay tribute to the old Shan
15 3 6 Market Hwai Ta......................................30 B3 First cross the bridge on the Lashio road, and ways. Zat pwe – a costumed dance-drama
38 Law Chun/Mr Food....................31 B3
Madaw Rd 41 Mao Shan..................................32 B3 walk about 200m. Look for a path on your based on Jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past
To Waterfall; 8
Rice Mill 42
39 40 Nin Wai Aung Teashop..............33
Yin Kyan....................................34
B2
B3
right that leads 1.5km to both small hills. lives) – is performed nightly. Before dawn
3 34
35
37
Also worth checking out are looms for on the day of the full moon, hundreds of
Aung Thabye Rd 14
To Ruined Mausoleum of
7 43 30 9
ENTERTAINMENT
Cinema......................................35 B3
weaving shoulder bags, several small cheroot Palaung pilgrims come from all around to
29
Sao Pha (8km);
Bawgyo Paya (8km);
27
31 26 factories and a ‘popcorn factory’ that employs offer rice to the images.
32 TRANSPORT
Kyaukme (35km);
Mandalay (209km)
28 Bogyoke Rd
Boat Dock..................................36 B2
an alarmingly explosive technique to make
1
Buses to Lashio...........................37 B3 the snack. East of the market are a handful Sleeping
Buses to Lashio...........................38 B3
20 Buses to Lashio...........................39 B3
of merchants’ shophouses that trade in tea Mr Charles Guest House (Myat Yatana Rest House;
To Lashio
Dokhtawady Express Bus to grown in the surrounding mountains. %80105; fax 80407; 105 Awtha St; r without bathroom
Mandalay...............................40 B3
Pick-ups/Vans to Visit the hospitable and well-informed K3000, s/d with shared bathroom US$3/6, with bathroom
24 Mandalay/Lashio....................41 B3 bookseller Ko Zaw Tun (known as Mr Book US$6/15) For foreign travellers, for better or
4 Yedagun Express Bus to
to many travellers) at his bookshop on worse, Mr Charles has become synonymous
Mandalay...............................42 B3
19 Yoma Express Bus to Mandalay..43 B3 Nanthu Rd (Main Rd) for reliable advice on with Hsipaw. A 2nd-floor balcony, perfect
21 To Five Buddha Hill (1.5km); Hsipaw and the surrounding area. He also for an afternoon tea or evening beer, con-
11
To Mandalay
(208km) 12
Nine Buddha Hill (1.5km)
gives out hand-drawn maps to Shan villages tributes to the laid-back social and friendly
that you can hike to from town. If you visit vibe that’s not often found in Myanmar.
during the hot season, Mr Book can arrange Mr Charles is just off the main road at
that was located nearby didn’t survive WWII means that access to the interior is restricted for you to go tubing down the river. Near the northern end of town in a small com-
bombing. The last sao pha was arrested dur- to a room off the side entrance, which holds Mr Book’s bookshop is the local National pound that includes a new and old annexe
ing the military takeover of 1962 and hasn’t only a few photos and a number of books for to the original home. Because of noise from
been heard from since. This story about sale. Visits are allowed after 4pm. The haw other guests, it can be difficult to sleep in
vanquished royalty is the topic of Twilight sao pha is about a 15-minute walk from the WARNING the cheapest rooms on the 2nd floor in the
over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess, a centre of town past the old town jail. Strange but true: a few shady characters original home. The nicest rooms are in the
memoir by Austrian-American Inge Sar- One of the busiest religious sites in Hsi- in Hsipaw have been known to use the new annexe.
gent, who was the popular Mahadevi (sao paw is Mahamyatmuni Paya at the southern pretext of a local festival to milk foreign- Nam Khae Mao Guest House (%80088; nkmao@
pha’s wife) of Hsipaw from the 1950s until outskirts of town. A shrine in the compound ers out of dollars. Unsuspecting tourists are myanmar.com.mm; 134 Bogyoke Rd; r with shared bath-
the takeover. The prince’s niece and nephew contains a large Buddha image inspired by asked to pay cash (around US$10) up front room US$3, s/d with private bathroom US$7/10) Mouldy,
take care of the palace and welcome foreign its Mandalay namesake, Mahamuni Paya for private transport to the village hosting crumbling and in need of a paint job, Nam
visitors, many of whom rave about being (p234). the interesting bash. After a long, fruitless Khae Mao is nevertheless friendly. A re-
entranced by the nephew’s monologue Eight kilometres southwest of town, off drive they’re commonly told that they ar- minder that you are just east of the clock
about his family’s life story. It’s best to go Mandalay–Lashio Rd, is the Shan-style Baw- rived too late or had the dates mixed up tower occurs every hour from 7am to 6pm.
with very modest expectations, though (es- gyo Paya. This is the most revered paya in and are returned to Hsipaw festival-free for Yamin Shwe Zin (Golden Doll/Mr Kid) Guest
pecially if the nephew isn’t there), since the northern Shan State – equivalent to Inle the night. House (in Hsipaw %66; Bogyoke Rd; s/d with bathroom
palace is a residence, not a museum. This Lake’s Phaung Daw Oo Paya (see p190). It K2500/3500) West of the clock tower, this
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place has spartan, fairly depressing rooms. willing to poke around and look for it. purchased at least a day ahead at the Man- where there are a few teashops and an army
Though the family is hospitable, this place One stall just inside the northern entrance dalay train station between 6am and 4pm. checkpoint, before skirting the mountain-
should be a last resort. belongs to the very friendly Aung Kyaw, The same train leaves Hsipaw at about 4pm, side through tea plantations that run all the
nicknamed Mr Bean. It offers a variety of arriving in Lashio at 7.30pm. The price of a way to Namhsan.
Eating nutritious and tasty bean salads. ticket for this leg is US$2/4 for ordinary/1st A cobbled track leads up behind the
Burmese Cuisine (Namtu Rd; dishes K300; hlunch & class. town, past typical wooden carved houses
dinner) One of the best places to try authentic Getting There & Away Trains also leave Hsipaw at 9.30am daily that cling to the steep hillside, to a couple of
Burmese cuisine is this small shop opposite BUS and arrive in Mandalay at around 8pm. Be- paya, a monastery and the green, shady res-
Law Chun (Mr Food). Look for a row of The scouting report for the quality of the cause of the more civilised departure time, it ervoir that supplies Namhsan with water. It
pots, a red sign announcing (appropriately three bus lines that service Hsipaw is not en- makes much more sense to take the train back is possible to make day and overnight treks
enough) ‘Burmese Cuisine’ and a list of the couraging. Locals express disdain for Yeda- from Hsipaw to Mandalay and get to Hsipaw to Shan and Palaung villages nearby.
curries served. Not all curries are available gun Express; Yoma Express buses look good from Mandalay by some other means. If you attempt to come up here in De-
every night, but chicken, fish and pork are on the outside but break down frequently; cember or January, consider buying a jacket
stand-bys. The vegetable curries, especially and Dokhtawady Express buses are uncom- Getting Around or thick blanket in Hsipaw before you set
the pumpkin, are equally good. When the fortable but don’t need repairs as often as Bicycles are available for rent at Mr Charles out. Once the sun goes down the tempera-
power goes out, which is frequently, can- the others. Buses leave Mandalay at around (see p211). Rates are about K500 for the day. ture drops like a stone.
dles make things quite romantic. There are 5.30am (K2300). Five or six buses go from Most places are within easy walking distance.
two or three family-style tables. Hsipaw to Mandalay daily at about 6am The only public transport around town is Sleeping & Eating
Law Chun (Mr Food; Namtu Rd) Part of the ‘Mr’ (K2300). All of the buses stop in Kyaukme. trishaws, which cost around K200 for a ride Namhsan has no guesthouses, but Daw
wave sweeping through Hsipaw, Law Chun The price of a ticket from Hsipaw to Pyin from the market to the Shan Palace. May Saw Nu and U Shwe Tun put foreign-
(or Mr Food) is swamped with foreign trav- U Lwin is K2300, the same as a ticket all the ers up for US$1 a night. Daw May Saw Nu’s
ellers during the high season. Convenient way to Mandalay. Buses for Lashio (K600, NAMHSAN house has four beds, and the owner also
and well lit, it has satellite TV and, impor- two hours), which is 72km to the northeast, nm'¾cm' runs treks for US$5 a day for two people.
tantly for many, an English-language menu depart daily opposite the market, a block A few pioneering sorts have made it from U Shwe Tun’s house is before a fork in the
with rice, curry and noodle dishes. west of the Dokhtawady Express stop. Hsipaw as far as Namhsan, and all return main road; a sign in front advertises DVDs
Hwai Ta (Namtu Rd) Next door to Law Chun, Vans and pick-ups to Pyin U Lwin and raving about the area’s stunning beauty, for sale, but unfortunately there’s no sign
this place serves similar rice, curry and Lashio are usually parked alongside the mar- which is grander and more picturesque than in English. Breakfast is not included in
noodle dishes. Fresh fish is also available. ket on Madaw Rd, across from the Dokhta- points further south. The region deserves its the price, but very good food is available.
Yin Kyan (hlunch) A few doors south of wady Express stop. nickname as the Switzerland of Myanmar. Guests sleep on the floor, and blankets and
the market and around the corner from the See p244 for information on other public Namhsan was the capital of the former pillows are provided.
Dokhtawady bus stop, this excellent small vehicles to Lashio, all of which make stops Shan state of Tawngpeng. It clings to a Several Chinese restaurants are found
Shan eatery has the best noodles in town. in Hsipaw. 1600m-high narrow ridge, surrounded by along the narrow main street. Like the rest
There’s no English menu. valleys and mountains that rise to 2000m. of the town, they close early (about 9pm).
Mao Shan (Namtu Rd; hbreakfast & lunch) This TAXI Most of the inhabitants are Shwe (Golden) There are a limited number of noodle stalls
tasty noodle shop is across the street from The most convenient way to travel between Palaung and make a living from tea, al- for breakfast.
and a few metres south of the Law Chun Hsipaw and Mandalay is by share taxi. It’s though opium poppies are never far away.
restaurant. very simple to arrange one and to find part- In Namhsan and nearby Payagyi, there are a Getting There & Away
Ah Kong Kaik restaurant (Mandalay-Lashio Rd) On ners at Mr Charles (see p211; K6000 per number of tea factories where tea is roasted, Trucks and buses leave Hsipaw and return
the road into Hsipaw from Mandalay, this person, 3½ hours). Drivers tend to try to boiled or pickled. The tea harvest runs from from Namhsan (K3000, 6½ hours) when
place serves decent Shan and Chinese fare, break speed records for dilapidated taxis. April to August and, during the monsoon, the number of passengers and amount of
and is a favourite of truck drivers who ply the It’s generally more expensive coming from overloaded trucks heading for Mandalay cargo warrant a run. Check with Ko Zaw
Mandalay–Lashio Rd. You can spot the res- Mandalay (K10,000 per person, 4½ hours). are a particular hazard, sometimes block- Tun (Mr Book; see p211) in Hsipaw to find
taurant by the trucks parked along the road. Stand out on Bogyoke Rd near the clock ing the road for hours or days. out where the truck or bus is parked while
There are several tea and snack shops tower to flag down a share taxi to Lashio The 80km journey from Hsipaw, on a waiting for passengers. Breakdowns are
in town – look around the northern and (per person K3000). Most are coming from road barely maintained since colonial times, common, so you may be better off trying
southern sides of the market. The rustic Nin Mandalay, Pyin U Lwin or Kyaukme and takes at least six hours; if it’s blocked by to hire a pick-up in Hsipaw (K30,000). The
Wai Aung Teashop (no English sign), just are already full, so the wait can be long. The trucks the journey can take days. The road old road from Namhsan to Kyaukme is not
opposite the northern side of the market same goes for taxis to Kyaukme in the other passes through the lowland Shan villages of passable by car.
and next to a big orange-coloured building, direction (the whole taxi costs K10,000). Konzaleik, Mo-te and Mali before crossing
opens very early and has a good selection a bridge over the Dokhtawady River and LASHIO
of snacks. Teashops on the southern side TRAIN climbing to Panglong (Big Village), a dull l;"Túui"
of the market tend to stay open late – until The Mandalay–Lashio train (ordinary/1st market town at the junction with the road %082
11pm or so. class US$3/6) departs from Mandalay at to the lead, silver, zinc and gold mines at This township of mostly Shan-Chinese and
Until mid-afternoon there’s good and 4am and arrives in Hsipaw at 3.30pm (with Namtu, 43km away. The road then descends Chinese inhabitants isn’t as pleasant or
cheap food to be had in the market if you’re luck). To guarantee a seat, tickets should be to the river again at the small village of Li-lu, traveller-friendly as Hsipaw. Consequently,
214 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • L a s h i o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • L a s h i o 215
0 400 m
LASHIO 0 0.2 miles
INFORMATION Chinese temple in Lashio and possibly the because the famous Burmese film actor of
Hospital...................................................................................1 A4
Inwa Bank...............................................................................2 A4 largest in Myanmar. the same name paid for its construction.
A B May Day Bookstall...................................................................3 A3 Mansu Paya stands between Lashio Lay The newly built Mahamyatmuni Paya, next to
To Mu-se; Police Station...........................................................................4 B2
Chinese Border
(153km)
Police Station...........................................................................5 A3 and Lashio Gyi on a hill on the western side City Hall, is quite colourful from the street
Post Office...............................................................................6
Telephone Office.....................................................................7
A3
B3
of Theinni Rd, and is said to be over 250 but looks less interesting the closer you get
1 Thein
Lashio Rd)
years old. More impressive is the nearby to it.
(High SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Sasana 2500-Year (Pyi Lon Chantha) Paya, report-
City Hall..................................................................................8 A3
Lashio Gyi
(Big Lashio)
To Lashio
Hot Spa Fire Station..............................................................................9 A3 edly built by the last Shan sao pha in the Sleeping
(5km) High School............................................................................10 B3
Lashio Degree College...........................................................11 A3 area, Sao Hon Phan. One of the shrines The Chinese-style accommodation in
Mahamyatmuni Paya.............................................................12 A3 in the paya complex contains a Bagan-era Lashio isn’t especially welcoming. Unless
Mansu Market.......................................................................13 B2
25
Mansu Paya...........................................................................14 B2 Buddha image. A second stupa of similar you’re breaking up a trip on your way to
Airport
Monument............................................................................15 A3 name, New Pyi Lon Chantha Paya, sits on Mya the Chinese border, the choice of hotels
Rd Mosque.................................................................................16 B4
Airpo
rt
Sasana 2500-Year Paya..........................................................17 B2 Kantha Hill in the northern part of town doesn’t really encourage an overnight stay.
Union First Baptist Church.....................................................18 A3 and offers good views of the city. The latter Breakfast is not included at any of the fol-
2 14
stupa is also known as Kyaw Hein’s Paya lowing places.
SLEEPING
4 Lashio Motel..........................................................................19 A3
13 New Asia Hotel......................................................................20 B3
To Train Station 17
Thi Da Aye Hotel...................................................................21 B4
(2km) 29 Ya Htaik Hotel.......................................................................22 B3 BURMA ROAD
EATING The so-called Burma Rd – actually a network of three major routes – came about during WWII,
11 Jupiter Restaurant..................................................................23 B4
Lashio Restaurant...................................................................24 B4
when Japanese invasion forces closed in on Myanmar from the north via China, and from the
Pu
south via Thailand. In what was known as the China-Burma-India (CBI) Theatre, Allied supplies
ta
Shwe La Win Restaurant........................................................25 B2

7
Rd
Sun Moon Café.....................................................................26 B4

for the ground war fought in Lower Burma were easily flown or shipped in from India. Supplying
(Sta
Teashops...............................................................................27 A3
tion
the China front, however, required dangerous flights over the 'Hump', a series of high Himalayan
Th
19 ENTERTAINMENT
3
ein
Rd)
15 Cinema..................................................................................28 B4 peaks that separate Myanmar and China.

ni
Sa
n
Over 1000 airmen died flying this route, prompting the Allies to look for a new way to supply
Rd
6 8
27 10
Kau
TRANSPORT
Ye
3
12 20 Bus Station.............................................................................29 B2 Chiang Kai-shek's nationalist Kuomintang (KMT) army, who were fighting the Japanese in western
Ka
18
ng S
5
nT
To Hsipaw 22 China. The Yunnanese built the original Burma road from Kunming to Wanting, China, between
t
aun
(62km); 9
Mandalay
Thein Ni St 1937 and 1939. They then laid an extension into Myanmar from Wanting to Lashio in 1940, for
gR
(235km)
Thu Ka
Bogy
d
2 24 Although the government of Myanmar a total length of 1200km. Early in the war, this Lashio–Kunming route served as the main supply
(Ta
1
Central
nk R
oke S
28
Market allows foreigners to travel from China to line for the KMT, but as Japanese pressure from the south increased, the Allies looked for an
St
d)
Lashio with permits obtained at the consu- alternative route from India.
t
26
16
Night 23 late in Kunming (China), it doesn’t sanc- American General Joseph 'Vinegar Joe' Stillwell proposed the construction of an all-weather,
4 Market
tion travel in the opposite direction (see two-lane road from India to China via northern Myanmar. The plan was to link up not with the
Kya
r Ph
21
To p222). original Lashio–Kunming route, but with a rough dry-weather track developed by the Chinese
yu
St
Quan Yin San
(Chinese Temple; Lashio is in a mountain basin at an alti- between Bhamo in southern Kachin State and Yunchang in Yunnan Province, China. British Army
To Shan &
Palaung Villages
Lashio Lay
(Little Lashio)
2km)
tude of 855m – clouds may form and de- engineers, using a trail created by war refugees fleeing to India from northern Burma, began
liver rain at almost any time of the year. It is building the 800km Ledo Rd from Ledo, Assam (India), to the Bhamo terminus of the Bhamo
divided into two main districts: Lashio Lay road in 1942. Although the engineers originally had 5000 labourers at their disposal, progress
Lashio is more popular as a day trip or as (Little Lashio) and Lashio Gyi (Big Lashio), was slow and work was abandoned in May 1942.
a stopover on the way to/from the Chinese connected by Theinni Rd. Lashio Lay is the A huge contingent of American engineers took over in November 1942; they assembled 35,000
border. newer and bigger of the two districts. Burmese, Indian, British and Chinese troops to tackle the enormous task of cutting through thick
At the southern end of the infamous jungle, upgrading the Bhamo track, and spanning 10 major rivers and 155 secondary streams
Burma Road, Lashio was once off limits to Sights & Activities between Ledo and Wanting. So many men were lost along the way that the builders sardonically
foreigners because of its proximity to China There’s a large central market in central Lashio. dubbed the route the 'man-a-mile road'.
(and the hated Chinese communists) as It’s not especially colourful or exotic, but Completed in May 1945, the Ledo road – also known as Stillwell Rd – was maintained until
well as ethnic insurgent territory. Since the it’s quite modern and orderly. The smaller a year later, when all Allied units were withdrawn from the CBI theatre. The Myitkyina Bridge,
1950s, the town has been flanked by the Shan Mansu Market (Theinni/Hsenwi Rd), focusing on which spanned the Ayeyarwady River south of Myitkyina and was the longest pontoon bridge
State Army (SSA) to the west and south, the fresh produce and foodstuffs, is closer to in the world, was deemed an obstacle to river traffic and was dismantled in 1947. One of the
Kachin Independence Army (KIA) to the Lashio Gyi. If you want to see people from chief post-war effects of the Bhamo–Myanmar road network was the opening up of the Kachin
north, and the Wa fighters of the Burmese various ethnic groups participating, you’re State remains of the Ledo road, which quickly fell into disuse.
Communist Party (BCP) to the east. Fragile better off in Hsipaw or Kengtung. The main Lashio–Kunming route, though in poor condition nowadays, sees much traffic as a
truces with most of these groups since 1989, More interesting than any of the Bud- major smuggling route to China for opium, heroin, gems, jade and teak. In the reverse direction,
along with a tremendous boost in trade with dhist shrines in town is the large and busy traders bring finished goods, such as auto parts, pharmaceuticals, processed foods, clothing
China, have prompted the government to Quan Yin San Temple, 2km away in Lashio Lay. and homewares.
open Lashio to foreign visitors. Built around 40 years ago, it’s the main
216 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O • • L a s h i o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • M y i t k y i n a 217
Ya Htaik Hotel (%22655; Bogyoke Rd; s/d with BUS House in Mandalay. As usual, rates vary Information
shared bathroom US$5/10, with private bathroom US$15/25) From Mandalay there are buses to Lashio according to the price of petrol. Snowland Tours (%23498; snowland@mptmail;
A four-storey Chinese-style place, Ya Htaik (around K3500, eight hours) that operate The road entrances to Lashio from Man- hMon-Sat) Near the market area, this is the only travel
has spartan but clean rooms. Shared bath- from the central/main bus centre near the dalay and from Mu-se, on the border with agency in town and can help with flights and custom-
rooms have squat toilets; larger rooms with corner of 26th and 82nd Sts. Buses operated China, are supposed to close at 6pm. In designed tours in the area.
private bathrooms are preferable. by five different companies depart daily be- practice, though, there seems to be plenty of YMCA (%23010; [email protected]; 12
New Asia Hotel (%23622; San Khaung Rd; r with tween 4am and 6am. Buy tickets at least one night-time travel in both directions. Myothit Rd) Unreliable Internet access.
shared bathroom US$8, with private bathroom US$5/10) day ahead to get a seat. If you want to leave town via the northern
Northeast of the central market, this mod- Buses from Lashio to Mandalay leave entrance (towards Mu-se), you must have Sights & Activities
ern four-storey place has simple rooms with at 6am. To break up the trip, it’s a good a permit from the regional military head- Herds of motorcycle taxis and trishaws con-
attached bathroom as well as a few dark idea to schedule at least a day’s stopover in quarters. Taxi drivers or staff at the New gregate around the train tracks near the
rooms with shared bathroom. Pyin U Lwin or Hsipaw along the way. The Asia Hotel (opposite) and the government- YMCA and the large bustling market.
Thi Da Aye Hotel (%22165; 218 Thiri Rd; s/d US$5/15) main bus station in Lashio is on Theinni owned Lashio Motel, at the intersection Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw is a pretty, gilded
Here the basement singles with squat toilets Rd south of Mansu Paya and near Mansu of the Mandalay–Lashio and Station Rds ‘wish-fulfilling’ stupa on the banks of the
are grotty, while the all-concrete upstairs Market. in Lashio, can sometimes help to arrange Ayeyarwady River. The larger Andawshin Paya
doubles are a cut above (but that’s not saying these. boasts a silver-plated stupa said to contain
much). Some rooms face a mosque, where TRAIN tooth relics and a Buddha footprint; there
the call to prayer begins at 4am. Since the Mandalay–Lashio Rd has been up- are a couple of adjacent monasteries. Other
The sprawling Lashio Motel, at the in-
tersection of Mandalay–Lashio and Station
graded, travelling by bus is much faster (and
cheaper) than the train. As usual, though,
MYITKYINA TO KATHA religious structures of interest include the Sri
Saraswati Gurkha Hindu Temple, the Ja-me Mosque
Rds, is government owned. the train is the better alternative for those A boat trip down the Ayeyarwady, past the and a Taoist-Buddhist Chinese temple.
who are interested in beautiful scenery and narrow gorges where the jungle creeps up Most of the Kachin people living in and
Eating a chance to meet the locals. The No 131 Up to the water’s edge, through slow-moving around Myitkyina have been strongly influ-
There are several Shan restaurants, large and leaves Mandalay at 4.45am and arrives in expanses where everything seems to stand enced by missionaries, and there are around
small, near the central market on Ye Kan Lashio around 7pm – when it’s not delayed still and sandbanks threaten to beach the 15 churches in town; most are Baptist, but a
Taung Rd (Tank Rd), and a row of good by track conditions (late arrivals aren’t boat, is a chance to witness the lethargic few Methodist and Catholic ones are sprin-
teashops west of the post office. In the even- unusual). The Lashio train for Mandalay pageantry of river life. Old men and young kled in. About 14km north is Praying Mountain,
ings a night market sets up on the road lead- departs at 5am, and is very cold in the wee children excitedly hail the arrival of the ferry a sacred site for Kachin and Lisu Baptists
ing south from the southeastern corner of hours of the morning during the cool sea- as they quickly heft sacks of goods, while and the location of a Bible school and semi-
the market. son. Along the way you’ll crawl across the longyi-clad women wade into the water nary. The town is also home to a small Nepali
Sun Moon Café (Bogyoke St) On the 2nd floor famous Gokteik Viaduct (p208) and wind to sell delicacies from plates confidently community.
of a building near the mosque in the centre around four monumental switchbacks. perched on their heads, as if the muddy Only a handful of visitors have visited the
of town is this hip café with a small menu The Mandalay to Lashio fare is US$6 waters were the town square. More than Kachin State Cultural Museum (Youngyi Rd; admis
including excellent chicken dumplings for ordinary class and US$12 for a seat in this, though, the trip north is an opportu- sion US$2; h10am-3pm Tue-Sun) since it was built
(K500) and fried chicken and rice (K1000). the only 1st-class coach on the train. From nity to socialise with Myanmar people on in 1994. On display is the usual collection
It may not sound like much, but the rela- Pyin U Lwin the fare is US$10 in 1st class. the long boat and train rides, where regular of costumes, and Kachin and Shan artefacts
tively luxurious décor – glass tables, cush- (Officially, ordinary class isn't available to stops are occasions to share food and get to such as pipes, baskets, fishing nets, looms
ioned chairs, fans, pop music – turn the Sun foreigners, but if 1st class is full, it's worth know others on the same journey. and musical instruments. Most labels are
Moon into a Shangri-la on a hot day. asking. At a pinch, you can just board the in Burmese. The museum is approximately
A block east of the market, the Lashio Res- train and wait for the ticket collector to MYITKYINA 3km from the centre of town.
taurant (Thu Ka St) is reliable for good Bamar come by.) ¨mc'äkI"n;"
and Chinese food, while the Jupiter Restau- Tickets for this route can be bought one %074 MYIT-SON
rant (dishes K800) on the corner southeast of to seven days ahead, and they sell out very If you don’t fly, it takes patience and en- ¨mc'z®u
the cinema, does Chinese food as well as quickly. In Lashio the train station is 3km durance to get to Myitkyina, but it’s the Myit-son, 43km north of Myitkyina, at the
several different types of satay. northwest of the centre of Lashio Lay. journey that makes it worthwhile. Myit- confluence of the Mayhka and Malihka Riv-
There are fewer restaurants in Lashio kyina itself, the seat of Myanmar govern- ers, is located at the beginning of the great
Gyi, but Shwe La Win Restaurant (Airport Rd) is VAN & CAR ment offices for the region and for official Ayeyarwady River. The Chinese-owned
very good for Chinese and Shan dishes. Small air-conditioned vans (Toyota Super- Kachin ethnic organisations, is mainly ap- Nanthida Hotel overlooks the water. The
roofs) travel from Mandalay to Lashio pealing as the starting point for trips to return taxi fare from Myitkyina is anywhere
Getting There & Away (K8000/6000 for seat at the front/back); Kachin villages in the area. Only a handful from K8000 to K30,000, depending on your
AIR these deliver their passengers to the door, of foreign visitors venture here, so it’s likely negotiating skills. It's about an hour each
Although Lashio has an airport and My- but they fill up fast. You can also hire your you’ll receive lots of friendly attention. way over a very rough road. Some three-
anma Airways allegedly flies there once a own car and driver in Mandalay to make The town is set in a flat valley that is ex- wheel drivers will make the trip for less,
week from Mandalay (US$45), you’re better the one-way trip for about US$40. Inquire tremely hot in the dry season and very rainy but this is not recommended, because of
off taking the train. at the Nylon Hotel or the Royal Guest during the monsoon. the poor road condition.
218 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • M y i t k y i n a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • M y i t k y i n a 219
Another spot formerly off limits is the at least) opened in 2001. The slightly musty reasonable food. Malihku Restaurant and PICK-UP & TAXI
jade-mining centre of Hpakan, 148km west rooms have air-con, hot water and TV, and Palay Kyawi Kan Thaya are Kachin restau- The 188km road between Bhamo and My-
of Myitkyina. Permission is required and the friendly staff speaks English. rants (serving steamed and barbecued fish) itkyina, which runs parallel to the China–
can usually be arranged by hotels in Myit- Pan Tsun Hotel (%22748; fax 22749; s/d US$15/20; along the river just north of town. Myanmar border, is passable in all weather.
kyina; however, the total cost of US$300, in- a) Rooms in the Pan Tsun, a four-storey Strictly speaking, you're not supposed to
cluding the fee for the two required military place behind the YMCA, have seen better Getting There & Away travel to/from Myitkyina by road, but in
escorts, is prohibitive to many. Southwest days. Some are quite small, and the carpet You can reach Myitkyina by air, boat, bus, practice it’s quite another story. Several
of Kamaing is the huge and serene Indawgyi is showing wear and tear. Nevertheless, the share taxi or train. However, there are pick-ups leave from in front of the YMCA at
Lake, home to 120 bird species including staff are professional, and rooms do have drawbacks to each method of travel, and 8.30am every day. Some drivers are reluctant
the Myanmar peacock and surrounded by amenities, including air-con, attached hot- the town’s inaccessibility, combined with to take foreigners, if only because it takes
30 rarely visited villages. To reach the lake water bathroom, satellite TV, fridge and the limited number of sights, mean that few even more time to pass through the five or
from Myitkyina, take a morning train to international direct dialling (IDD) phone. visitors bother. so army checkpoints, which are primarily in
the village of Hopin (US$4, four hours). Sumpra Hotel (%25051; [email protected]; place to prevent smuggling. To speed up the
From here pick-ups make the 42km trip to 11 Thida Aye Quarter; s/d US$30/35) This hotel, 8km AIR formalities, it makes sense to make five cop-
the lakeside village of Lonton (K2000, two outside town and owned and operated by Bagan Air flies to Myitkyina from Yangon ies of your passport and visa to leave at each
hours), which has a guesthouse. a former Kachin official, is a favourite of on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. My- checkpoint along the way. This also helps
government types and business people. The anma Airways (MA) has a flight from convince drivers that you are clued in.
Festivals & Events spacious rooms, with frazzled carpets and Mandalay to Myitkyina (US$70 one way). Some travellers report that it’s possible to
On Kachin State Day (10 January) a major peeling paint, aren’t especially good value; It’s possible to continue to Putao (US$90 hire a share taxi all the way between Bhamo
manao (also spelt manau or manaw; the however, each concrete bungalow has a small return) but prior permission, more easily and Mandalay (K100,000 for six people, 20
important festivals held periodically to pla- porch, and there’s a great deck space over- pursued in Yangon, is needed. On Wednes- hours).
cate or pay homage to the Jinghpaw nat) looking the river. day, MA makes the flight from Yangon to There are no regular public-transport
in Myitkyina draws Kachin groups from all Myitkyina via Bhamo (US$180 one way). services along the road between Mogok and
over the state and beyond. Eating The 25-minute flight from Bhamo to Myit- Myitkyina, as road conditions are quite bad
A typical manao involves the sacrifice of Bamboo Field Restaurant (%23227; 313 Union St; fish kyina costs US$35. MA often doesn’t fly between Mogok and Bhamo.
29 cows and/or buffaloes, one for each of dishes K3000) A short walk from the Aye Chan according to a strict schedule, especially
the 28 Jinghpaw nat plus one dedicated to Tha Inn, Bamboo Fields is a more ‘devel- during the rainy season, and tickets are TRAIN
all of them. Participants dance, play music oped’ restaurant than one might expect to difficult to obtain. There is an MA office in Government trains leave Mandalay at 1.40pm
and drink churu (rice beer). find here. Young government-connected town, but its opening hours are irregular. and 5.45pm daily, and are supposed to arrive
types and the occasional foreign business- in Myitkyina 24 hours later. In practice it
Sleeping man eat and drink while taking in either BOAT often takes longer – up to 40 hours – due to
Aye Chan Tha Inn (%23109; 53 Sipinthayar Rd; s/d noncompetitive modelling contests or com- Large three-deck passenger ferries don’t the poor condition of the rail bed. Derail-
US$8/15; a) Lit up like a casino at night, the petitive fashion shows where the only cos- travel north of Bhamo, because the river is ments have occurred in the past, a few re-
Aye Chan Tha is easily the best value in tume change involves a different-coloured too shallow to navigate safely. sulting in deaths. The fare for sleeper/upper
town. The hotel is quite modern and im- boa. The white-shirted waiters are attentive. Foreigners are supposedly barred from class is US$40/27. Tickets should be pur-
maculately kept, and rooms are attractive The menu includes barbecued meat and taking one of the long, narrow ‘fast’ boats chased at least three days in advance, espe-
and have satellite TVs. Reviews of the owner fish, and there’s a wide selection of spirits that leave every morning for the seven-hour cially if you want to book a sleeper. See p244
are less glowing, though – don’t rely on him and beers. trip from Myitkyina to Bhamo (K8000) – for information on buying tickets in Manda-
for travel advice, as he’s likely to dismiss any Riverview Restaurant (%23780; fish & prawn apparently safety is the issue. This restric- lay. Two semiprivate companies run some-
unconventional ideas. dishes K2000) As you might expect, this res- tion may be lifted in the future but, if it’s what better trains to Myitkyina on certain
YMCA (%23010; [email protected]; 12 taurant affords fantastic views, so while the still in place when you visit, a Myanmar days of the week; ask for details at a travel
Myothit Rd; s/d with shared bathroom US$5/6, with private quality of the food is secondary, the stand- guide can help secure permission. It’s been agency or your guesthouse. The problem is
bathroom US$7/12; ai) There’s no doubt that ard Bamar and Chinese dishes are satisfying reported that single travellers, or two to that these services use the same track, and
this is the most traveller friendly and savvy enough. Maybe a beer is all the nutrition three travellers at the most, may be able to are therefore subject to the same delays.
place to stay in Myitkyina. Rooms at the needed – after all, sitting and looking for pay a small gratuity to the ticket seller and Upper-class seating runs the gamut from
Y have mismatched furniture and erratic hours aren’t demanding activities. boat captain for their ‘permission’. Groups fairly widely spaced, comfortable, thickly
water pressure. There was an ant problem A short walk from the YMCA and op- of foreigners boarding the boat would at- cushioned seats that recline all the way back
in some corners of our room, but the mat- posite a church, Shamie Restaurant (curries K900), tract too much attention, so you may be to straight-backed wooden benches with
tresses were comfortable, and the help and makes ordering one of their delicious cur- asked to keep a low profile while still in very thin cushions. If comfort is a concern –
information available overrode other con- ries easy with helpful photos on the wall. the Myitkyina jetty. Once you depart, it’s and it should be on such a long trip – the
cerns. Breakfast is not included. Kashmir Restaurant (curries K900) also does In- quite a comfortable and enjoyable jour- only sure way to know what you’re getting
Xing Xian Hotel (%22281; xingxianhotel@mptmail dian curries and is around the corner, closer ney. There’s a large, open space in the is to go with a guide, a Myanmar friend or
.net.mm; 127 Shan Su; s/d US$20/30; a) Only a few to the YMCA. front of the boat where you can spread a member of staff from a guesthouse to look
blocks from the market and river front, Seikdaichya, one of the best eateries, out along with groups of locals and their over the trains and cars in person and select
this four-storey behemoth (for Myitkyina doesn't look like much but serves quite picnics. what you want. Otherwise, it’s pot luck.
220 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • B h a m o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • M u - S e & N a m h k a m Va l l e y 221
It gets fairly cold at night, so bring warm Paya, in the town centre, features an older on the main drag with good samosas and a Getting Around
clothes and a blanket. Attendants hire out stupa. satellite TV tuned in to a Hindi channel. Horse carts to Bhamo Myo Haung (the old
bamboo mats for sleeping on that can be Sein Win, who speaks English, can be city) can be hired anywhere in town and cost
placed under the seats or in the aisle. A found by asking for him at the Friendship Getting There & Away about K400 per person for the return trip.
restaurant car cooks good rice and curry Hotel (below). He is a jack of all trades. In AIR Bhamo is small enough to visit on foot.
dishes; attendants can also bring the food addition to having built a helicopter (appar- Myanma Airways flies between Bhamo and
to your seat. In addition, every stop is a ently inspired by the James Bond films) that Mandalay (US$50, one hour) on Monday MU-SE & NAMHKAM VALLEY
culinary adventure, with some stops long he is more than willing to show visitors, and Friday. This flight originates in Yangon – mUzy' à nm'¾xm'" xYŸi='¾0Hm'"
enough for you to disembark and sit down Sein Win takes foreigners on day trips to the fare all the way from Yangon to Bhamo The Shweli River (called Ruili River on the
with whatever you find. Kachin villages in the area and to an ele- via Mandalay is US$130. It then continues Chinese side) forms the border between
All caveats aside, it's a wonderful oppor- phant camp if given notice. It’s up to you to to Myitkyina (US$40 from Bhamo). Return Myanmar’s Shan State and China's Yun-
tunity to meet Myanmar people, have real decide what his services are worth, but the flights to Mandalay and Yangon leave Bhamo nan Province at Mu-se. Although it extends
and sustained conversations and maybe standard rate seems to be anywhere from at around 2pm. all the way to Lashio (and to some degree
even play a game of chess or two. US$10 to US$30 per person depending on beyond), the Chinese influence is of course
the number of people in the group. BOAT stronger here than elsewhere in Shan State.
Getting Around The Three Star Bookshop sells the Myan- Large ferries ply the Ayeyarwady River be- You're not likely to be allowed to visit Mu-
A number of repair shops, including one mar Times. tween Mandalay and Bhamo (lower deck/ se from Myanmar. However, people on es-
directly behind the YMCA (p218), will hire upper deck/cabin US$9/24/54) on Tuesday, corted package tours entering from China
out motorcycles (per day K6000) to foreign- Sleeping & Eating Thursday and Sunday. When the water have received permission to enter Myanmar
ers. Don't think about going too far, as the Friendship Hotel (%50095; [email protected] level is at its optimum, the upriver journey at Mu-se and travel south to Lashio.
quality of the bikes is generally fairly poor. .mm; r with fan & shared bathroom U$5, s/d with private takes 1½ days (about the same as the down- Mu-se’s once sleepy frontier-town atmos-
However, it’s a very fun way to get around bathroom US$15/25; a) The largest building in river journey), but when the river’s low it phere has been swept away by the bustling
town and see the surrounding countryside. Bhamo, the five-storey Friendship Hotel is can take as long as 2½ days. See p223 for border trade with China. The town's elec-
The YMCA will also hire out bicycles for a comforting surprise, especially if you ar- more details. Compared to lower deck, the tricity is supplied by China, so the power
K200 per day. rive here by boat. Everything is modern and enclosed upper-deck class is smaller and cuts common around Myanmar are unheard
Covered motorised three-wheelers in My- spick-and-span. The more expensive rooms has fewer people. of here. Chinese tourists flock to Mu-se to
itkyina (called thonbeecars – thon is three have air-con, phone with IDD service, TV, The scenery along the upper reaches of shop, keeping the moneychangers busy.
and bee is wheel) are everywhere. Taxis are fridge, minibar, and complimentary tea and the Ayeyarwady is very fine, especially north Trucks from Myanmar cross to China
available from the airport and opposite the coffee. Breakfast is served in the very cosy of Shwegu, where the riverbanks are lush with dried fish, rattan, fresh beans and fruit.
market for trips further afield (such as to bar and restaurant below street level. The with bamboo and other flora and the boat On the return trip from China, the same
Indawgyi Lake). The average cost of a bicy- staff here, and especially the manager, Moe passes through steep rock gorges. trucks carry electrical goods, spare parts,
cle trishaw around town is K200 during the Naing, are extremely helpful and can book The government’s Inland Water Trans- cement and other building components.
day and K500 in the evening. boat trips and flights for you. Ask for a map port office (where you can buy tickets for Smuggled goods include teak, cigarettes and
of Bhamo. the boat) in Bhamo is opposite the round- alcohol.
BHAMO Grand Hotel (%50317; Post Office Rd; s/d US$10/15; about near Tat Twin Kyaung (a military The territory surrounding Mu-se is one of
bn'"em;' a) Less grand-looking inside than outside, monastery). Alternatively, simply ask for the primary pipelines for opium and heroin
%074 this hotel is nevertheless a very decent second help at either of the hotels. smuggling from Shan State to Yunnan Prov-
For many, Bhamo (ba-maw), 186km south option. The hallways are rather cavernous If you want to stop overnight in Katha ince, and from there to Hong Kong. East of
of Myitkyina, is the starting point for a and the rooms are large, with Chinese-style before continuing by ferry to Mandalay, Mu-se, along the border, there are report-
cruise down the mighty Ayeyarwady River décor and 'extras' such as slippers. it’s worth taking one of the smaller, ‘fast’ edly several major heroin refineries, as well
to Mandalay. The town itself deserves more Heaven Tea Shop (dim sum K220; hbreakfast, long boats from Bhamo (ordinary/1st as methamphetamine labs. This area to the
attention, though, as it’s leafier and more lunch & dinner) This place offers a refreshing class K3500/10,000), which take anywhere east is strictly off limits to foreigners.
charming than Myitkyina, and blessed with change of pace from the usual fare found from five to seven hours, depending on Cut by the Shweli River, the verdant
quality accommodation. in this part of the country. Don't be fooled the number of times the boat gets stuck Namhkam Valley, southwest of Mu-se, is a
The bustling daily market draws Lisu, by the sign out the front advertising natu- on sandbars. A 1st-class ticket will prob- beautiful patchwork of bamboo and rice
Kachin and Shan participants from the sur- ral spring water of the same name. Heaven ably get you a seat in the pilot house, while paddies. Most of the people living off the
rounding countryside, though there’s little serves a delicious selection of chicken, pork ordinary class means you get a rather land in this area are Shan and other Thai
to see in the way of traditional costumes. A and seafood dim sum in a pleasant outdoor cramped seat on a wooden or metal bench. ethnic groups. The town of Namhkam is
portion of the old city walls of Sampanago, an setting. Bring your own food and water. If travel- renowned as the WWII-era location of
old Shan kingdom, can be seen around 3km Shamie Restaurant (curries K1000) Just a few ling all the way from Bhamo to Mandalay Dr Gordon Seagrave's American Medical
north of town – though the ride out there doors down from Heaven, the Shamie does by boat, it’s worth taking the ‘fast’ boat Center. Doctor Seagrave renounced his as-
by horse cart is of more interest than the good Indian curries. from Bhamo to Katha and then the large sociations with the American Baptist Mis-
overgrown pile of rubble. To get there, tell Sein Sein Restaurant, Crown Restaurant ferry from Katha to Mandalay. Both afford sion in order to offer medical service free
the horse-cart driver to go to Bhamo Myo and Nanthida Restaurant serve Chinese good opportunities to meet and befriend of Christian proselytisation; people from all
Haung (Old City of Bhamo). Theindawgyi food. Yamona Tea Shop is a Hindu-run place the locals. over the northern frontier states emerged
222 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • K a t h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA • • K a t h a 223
from his medical centre trained as doctors inaccessibility. What activity there is picks participate in their rather heated but fun and Katha the fares are US$4/28 for lower-
and nurses. up during ferry arrivals and departures and impromtu football games in the afternoon. deck/cabin class. The scenery along this
is mostly centred on the riverside road – stretch is quite spectacular, especially north
Sleeping & Eating an excellent place to absorb the rhythm of Sleeping & Eating of Shwegu, when the boat passes through
Muse Hotel (s/d US$10/15; a) This is the most small-town Myanmar riverine life. Katha Katha gets few foreign visitors, and the a steep gorge, and gibbons can be heard
popular place to stay. Rooms in the pri- is easily explored by foot but doesn’t see rustic accommodation reflects this. The calling from the thick jungle. Pods of rare
vatised 40-room Muse have attached hot- many foreign visitors, so you may receive town’s two hotels are on Strand Rd, near Irrawaddy dolphins are sometimes spotted
water bathrooms and air-con but are noisy celebrity-level attention. Located roughly the ferry embarkation point. Breakfast is not north of Katha when the river is low. The
and a tad grubby. halfway up to Myitkyina, Katha’s popula- included. Inland Water Transport office in Katha is
There are cheaper places to stay that may tion is a mix of Bamar, Kachin and Chin, Ayeyarwady Guest House (%25140; Strand Rd; opposite the jetty. Staff there can arrange
or may not accept foreigners, including the plus a small Nepali minority. r K3000) Of the two guesthouses that accept passage with little notice, though to be on
Yan Yan Guest House, Tokyo Motel and foreigners in Katha, the Ayeyarwady is the the safe side it's better to arrange a ticket in
Lucky Hotel. Sights better choice. Upstairs rooms fronting the Mandalay or Bhamo.
If you’re lucky enough to get permission Katha has a little-known distinction. Eric road have views of the river, but this means
to visit Namhkam, you'll find cheap but Blair (known to the world by his pen name, that noise is an issue. A shower and squat BUS
rustic accommodation at the Cherry Guest George Orwell) was posted here from De- toilets are inside. Though a rarely explored option, bus travel
House, Yadana Theingi Guest House and cember 1926 to June 1927 as a colonial po- Annawah Guest House (%25146; Strand Rd; s/d between Mandalay and Katha is possible.
Friendship Guest House. lice officer, and Katha was the setting for his K2000/4000) Be sure to take one of the upstairs Golden Lion Express (K3500, 12 hours)
novel Burmese Days. Most of the sites men- rooms here. Though they are mere wooden leaves at noon from the bus station, a
Getting There & Away tioned in Orwell’s novel, which is highly cubicles, like others on the 1st floor, they do five-minute walk from the jetty. Another
From Mu-se it’s four or five hours by pick- critical of the British colonial system, are at least get some ventilation. A shower and company, Aunglentaw Express, leaves from
up or car along the famed Burma Road to still there, including the police station, the squat toilets are out the back. the village of Palweshwe, directly opposite
Lashio, a distance of 176km. With the in- huge walled jail, and the old hospital where Katha has a lively night market with sev- Katha on the other side of the river. Small
creased traffic between Mu-se and Manda- the writer spent some time recuperating eral makeshift noodle joints where you just boats can be hired for the short crossing to
lay, the road to Lashio has livened up with from dengue and befriended an Indian doc- grab a seat on the bench and point to what Palweshwe. This route is closed during the
businesses catering to truck drivers. Pick- tor named Krishnaswami (Dr Veraswami in you want. Myint Myint Restaurant, near the rainy season.
ups (K1500 per person) start at about 6am in the novel). fire station, on a road parallel to Strand Rd,
either direction – but be warned: they're im- Most interestingly, the old British Club, has very good Burmese curries. Sein Restau- TRAIN
possibly packed with people and cargo, and around which much of the novel revolves, rant does the best Chinese food in town. Trains from Mandalay or Myitkyina go to
are very uncomfortable. Share taxis with air- is now the headquarters for an agricultural Katha and make a stop at Naba, approxi-
con are available for K3000 per person. It’s coop. The club library and billiard table are Getting There & Away mately 25km west of Katha. A railway spur
possible to arrange lifts in private cars, but long gone, but the tennis court is, surpris- BOAT goes from Naba to Katha, but there’s only
any driver who agrees to take you will want ingly, still in use and the easiest way to find The most enjoyable way to reach Katha is one train a day and it leaves at 5.30am
some money for fuel, plus a little extra. the former club. Ask any local for direc- by passenger ferry on the Ayeyarwady River (K100, one hour). Trains from Katha to
tions to the tennis court – just mimic an from Mandalay or Bhamo. The large three- Naba leave at 1pm and 5pm. Most people
KATHA overhead serve – and then follow the path storey Chinese ferry takes around 24 hours opt instead to take a truck between the two
ks; beside it to the wooden building directly to Mandalay (a little more going upriver). towns, which is more convenient. Trucks
Compared with Myitkyina to the north and behind it. It costs US$7 for deck class (no chairs wait at the Naba station to take passengers
Bhamo to the east, Katha is more peaceful Monks from the large monastery on one are provided; you must bring a mat and to Katha (K300, one hour) whenever a train
and pleasant, partly because of its relative end of Strand Rd welcome foreigners to camp on the lower deck, which is not rec- arrives from Mandalay or Myitkyina. Trucks
ommended in winter, when temperatures from Katha to Naba leave at 2.30pm.
can dip below freezing) and US$42 for a Government trains from Mandalay to
MYANMAR–CHINA BORDER bed in a two-person cabin. Each cabin has Naba (1st/upper class US$12/18) on their
A bridge over the Shweli River links the two countries. At the time of writing it was not possible two beds, a washbasin, a fan and a reading way to Myitkyina leave daily at 1.50pm and
to cross the border from Myanmar into China, but it was possible to cross from China into Myan- light. The toilet and bathrooms are towards 5.45pm. The trip takes about 12 hours (if
mar – if you've brought the proper paperwork from Kunming. A travel agency in the Kunming the rear, but passengers in cabin class are you’re lucky). Trains leave Naba for Man-
Camelia Hotel (%0871-317 6609; 154 East Dong Feng Rd, Kunming) can make the requisite arrange- given keys to their own facilities (a boon, dalay at 4.50pm and 8.20pm; the earlier
ments. The Laotian Consulate happens to be on the same floor. For Y1300 (US$140) the people given that deck-class facilities tend to get express train is recommended. Foreign-
at the Kunming Camelia will organise everything you need upon reaching Ruili on the Chinese fouled rather quickly). The deck below has ers are not allowed in the lower-class cars
side of the border, where a government-approved guide from Myanmar will walk you through a kitchen serving noodles, soups and curry but, unless you’re some kind of masochist,
the day-long paperwork maze. From Kunming, Ruili can be reached by air (50 minutes) or by bus dishes. Snacks are also sold. Ferries ply the you wouldn't want to ride them anyway –
(24 hours). On the Myanmar side, the guide helps change money and coordinates passage by river three times a week (but note that the they're little better than cattle cars.
taxi all the way to Lashio or Hsipaw. There are at least three police checkpoints along this road. days they run aren’t set in stone). Privately run trains operated by the
Note that you cannot travel in the opposite direction (ie from Lashio up to Mu-se). The ferry from Bhamo takes eight hours Mehka Mandalar company depart Manda-
or more to reach Katha. Between Bhamo lay on Wednesday and Sunday at 4.40pm.
224 T H E FA R N O R T H • • Pu t a o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E FA R N O R T H • • Pu t a o 225
Upper-class seats are US$25. The Malikha against the Myanmar and Indian govern- point for week-long to month-long treks. on the Nam Lang River and the more chal-
Mandalar company runs trains on Monday ments continues. The latter are demanding and cannot be lenging Mayhka River (see p333). One Ger-
and Friday, and the fare and departure times undertaken on the spur of the moment: per- man travel company has even mentioned
are the same. These tickets can be bought at PUTAO mission, supplies, camping gear, guides and plans to offer skiing vacations in the moun-
the Mandalay train station at windows Nos pšt;aui maybe even porters need to be arranged. tains here. A word of caution before signing
7 and 8. These private trains depart from At an elevation of 402m above sea level, If you do jump through the bureaucratic up: the thrills don't come cheap.
Myitkyina for Naba (en route to Mandalay) Putao is small and picturesque. During the hoops and pay the sometimes exorbitant
on Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday. late British colonial era, a military post called fees, your efforts will be rewarded. The geog- Tours
Fort Hertz was based in Putao. By the end of raphy and scenery are truly fantastic. Trails Travel agencies in Yangon specialising in
WWII most Westerners used this name in- pass through isolated villages, and bamboo trips to the north:
THE FAR NORTH stead of Putao – it still appears on some older
maps. Most of the population of around
bridges cross sparkling, pristine rivers. The
cost for a typical 11-day trip, including air-
Lisu & Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions (%01-652 809;
[email protected]; Suite 03-06, Sedona Hotel)
One of the least visited regions on earth, 10,000 are Kachin and Lisu, followed by fare from Yangon, guides, porters, food and The same adventurous and enterprising people who run
the far north of Myanmar is undoubtedly Bamar, Shan and various other smaller tribal sleeping equipment, is US$1100. Balloons over Bagan (see p268).
appealing to the adventurous traveller. In groups. The Lisu are proficient hunters – Hkakabo Razi stands 5889m high and is Myanmar Himalaya Trekking & Culture Travels &
a frontier area, with an intact ecosystem, for trade, not sustenance. In an attempt to snowcapped year round. After forking out Tours Co (%01-227 978; www.myanmar-explore.com;
old-growth forest and alpine meadows, stop the decimation of rare and endangered US$40,000 to the government for the priv- Room 212, Summit Parkview Hotel)
Putao and the surrounding area lie above species, conservationists have focused on ilege of climbing the mountain, and after Woodland Travel & Tour (%01-202 071; www.wood
the tropic of Cancer. This zone is character- efforts to provide people in the area with two failed attempts, Takeshi Ozaki of Japan landgroups.com; 7 FJV Commercial Centre, Botataung Rd)
ised by subtropical conditions up to 2000m, the equally rare but vital mineral of salt. and U Nama Johnson of Myanmar reached
temperate rainforest from 2000m to 3000m Previously, traders from China (who were the summit in 1996. A protected reserve Sleeping & Eating
and subalpine snow forest that becomes interested in animal parts for medicines and around Hkakabo Razi was established the A number of travel agencies run trips to
alpine scrub above 3000m. The highlands aphrodisiacs) were the only source of this same year by the government in response Putao and arrange sleeping accommodation
north of Putao are considered one of the mineral, which is so easily taken for granted to the tireless efforts of the New York–based for guests in either the government-owned
most pristine Himalayan environments in yet so necessary for survival. Wildlife Conservation Society, headed by Rest House, which we don’t recommend,
Asia and could become a major ecotourism Alan Rabinowitz, author of the very mov- or more likely in camp sites. At the time of
destination if made accessible to foreigners. Information ing and fascinating memoir Beyond the research, Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions (above)
The locals often refer to the surrounding Around 300 to 400 foreigners visited the Last Village (p72). Only a handful of for- was in the process of constructing a luxury
peaks as the ‘ice mountains’. Putao area in 2003–04. The best time to eigners have made the 35-day trek from lodge called the Lisu perched above the
One of the smallest ethnic groups north visit is from October to April, when day- Putao to Tahaungdam, the last village before Nam Lang River. Plans indicate that, in ad-
of Putao is the Tawon, the only known time temperatures are quite pleasant and Hkakabo Razi; it’s an additional nine days dition to a main lodge with two fireplaces,
Asian pygmy group, who are hunters. They nights are cold but rarely freezing. to base camp. Satellite peaks in adjoining the individual bungalows (designed like tra-
don't have words for emotional states, but – Official permission granted by MTT is massifs include Namni-Lka (4664m) in the ditional homes) will be centred on an open
thanks to enterprising missionaries – they necessary to visit Putao. This can be ar- Adung Valley and Diphuk-Ha (4360m) in the fireplace. Accommodation will be part of
can cite passages from the Bible as an arranged with the assistance of a travel agent Seingku Valley. Phongun Razi (3500m) is a an all-inclusive package arranged through
gument for domesticating beasts. Other or with Myanma Airways directly in Yan- 10- to 11-day trip from Putao; the sum- the travel agency.
tribes living in the highlands north of Putao gon only and can take from two to three mit of it affords views of India to the west. The town has one Chinese restaurant,
are the Rawang, Drung, Daru, Nung and weeks to obtain. The cost of a permit starts Along with hundreds of butterfly species, Khamsuko, near Myoma Market.
Tibetans. at US$35. the Himalayan black bear, the red panda
The minor gold mining in the region is and the red goral (small goat antelope) have Getting There & Away
not significant enough for the government Sights & Activities been observed in the region. Foreigners are not allowed to travel to
to get involved; however, there are also ruby As might be expected for an area so close Rabinowitz also worked to create the Putao by road. Even with permission, the
mines, which were given up by the Kachin to multiple remote borders, the army has Hukuang Valley tiger-conservation area, which, narrow, unsurfaced 356km road is passable
as part of their peace treaty with the junta a strong presence (and an apparently un- at 8400 sq km, is larger than all the Indian only in dry weather. Permission from the
in Yangon. Because much of the north is quenchable passion for golf, evidenced by tiger reserves put together. It’s also home MTT must be sought to fly here.
suboptimal in terms of agriculture, it's been its nine-hole course near the military camp). to at least 50 rare animal and bird species, Myanma Airways (MA) flies from Yan-
largely free of political conflict and violence. Bamboo and wooden handicrafts and medi- such as the clouded leopard, marbled cats gon to Putao (US$210 one way, four hours)
However, the Kachin Independence Army cines made from local plants are on sale at and the leaf deer. Cameras were installed via Mandalay and Myitkyina on Monday,
(KIA), which has offices in Myitkyina, still the Myoma Market in town. A popular post– throughout the valley in 2002 to record the Friday and Sunday, and from Yangon to
operates in the Hukuang Valley, where they Sunday morning mass activity is watching animals’ movements and numbers. Putao via Myitkyina on Wednesday and
wear uniforms and carry weapons (KIA in videos at a market teashop. Next to the Ma- Ultimate Descents (www.ultimatedescents.com), Saturday. Bear in mind that the schedule
Myitkyina goes without either). The Naga, hamuni Paya is a chime bell made from the a subsidiary of Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions may change every six months or so. The
still feared because of their reputation as propeller of a wrecked WWII aircraft. hopes to pioneer rafting and kayaking trips Myitkyina to Putao leg is US$90 return.
head-hunters, live in the valley and along the Multiple footpaths lead out of town, per-
Indian border, where low-level insurgency fect for a short day hike or as the starting
226 www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • H i s t o r y 227
Mandalay HISTORY
Despite erroneous references to the con-
The city streets are laid out on a grid system
and numbered from north to south and east
mN ÿe l" trary, Mandalay is a comparatively young

city, and its time as the capital of the last
Burmese kingdom was short. Most of its
to west. Some people may make a distinction
between east–west ‘roads’ and north–south
‘streets’, but in everyday practice the Myan-
monuments and buildings are therefore mar people use these terms interchangeably,
fairly recent, although some temples long and also the word làn. The east–west streets
predate the city. For centuries this area of run into the 40s only, while the north–south
The country’s last royal capital, and still an infant at 150 years old, Myanmar’s second city Myanmar was the site of the capitals of the streets start in the 60s and run through to the
is so not Yangon. Quieter, more laid-back and snuggled into its setting on the banks of the Burmese kingdoms; from Mandalay you 80s. For moving across the city quickly, 35th
Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, 695km north of the capital, Mandalay spreads lazily along can easily visit four former royal cities – all St serves as the main east–west thoroughfare,
a wide, flat grid of streets filled less with cars and commuter-packed buses than squeaky
now deserted. while 80th St is the main north–south street.
King Mindon Min, penultimate ruler in The two major business thoroughfares are
bicycles and trishaws. And dust – even the palm trees are caked with the stuff. the Konbaung dynasty, founded the city in 26th and 84th Sts. It’s also worth remem-
1857 and began construction of his new bering that, between 35th and 26th Sts, the
Some visitors love it; some could live without it. Mandalay’s not particularly pretty, but
capital, which moved from Amarapura in major thoroughfares of 81st and 83rd Sts
few visitors to Myanmar skip a few days here. That’s long enough to climb steep Mandalay 1861. In true Myanmar tradition, the new are north-bound one-way streets, and 82nd
Hill, lined with Buddhas and nats (spirit beings), for views of the Shan hills. It’s long enough palace was mainly constructed from the dis- street is a south-bound one-way street.
for a glimpse of the famous Mahamuni Paya, an evening with the Moustache Brothers and mantled wooden buildings of the previous The city centre here – called ‘downtown’
day trips to the remarkable ancient cities hovering at the city’s outskirts (see p248). For palace at Amarapura. Mandalay’s period of on signs and by English-speaking locals –
glory was short – Mindon was succeeded runs roughly from 21st St to 35th St, between
some, the best pastime is sitting over tea at dusk and watching kids and adults fly plastic by the disastrous Thibaw Min and, in 1885, 80th St and 87th St or 88th St. Cutting it in
kites over the rush-hour scene. Mandalay was taken by the British. Thibaw half, east–west 26th St divides south down-
and his notorious queen were exiled and town (home to many Indians and Nepalis)
After opening borders with China, Mandalay became something of a boom town in the ‘the centre of the universe’ or ‘the golden from north downtown (where there’s a not-
1990s, though the city remains richly Buddhist, home to some 60% of Myanmar’s monks, city’ (as it was known) became just another able Shan community).
many of whom reside in the villagelike leafy area southwest of downtown. outpost of the British Empire.
Fifteen years after independence in 1947, Maps
Mandalay slumbered, like the rest of the Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; see p229)
country, through the socialist mismanage- sells a Mandalay map with advertisements
HIGHLIGHTS ment of Ne Win and company. However, for K100.
Mandalay’s most worshipped site, the Mahamuni Paya (p234) houses a (stolen) Buddha with the reopening of the Burma Road
re-covered in gold leaf daily through Lashio to China the city has been INFORMATION
The city’s best vantage point is from undergoing an economic boom since the Internet Access
Mandalay Hill (p229), where, the story Mandalay 1990s. The money fuelling this boom is Many guesthouses and hotels have a lone
goes, Buddha pointed out the setting of
Hill generated by three trades – rubies, jade and computer offering Internet access for K1000
the future capital heroin – and controlled by Kachin, Wa, or K1500 per hour. Shops downtown with
Shan, Kokang and Chinese syndicates. quicker access and a few computers:
Culture shows: banned jokester heroes
The population has broken 800,000, Micro-Electronics Email Service (Map p230; 83rd St,
the Moustache Brothers Troupe (p240)
with new townships springing up along the 23/24; per hr K1000; h9am-8.30pm)
churn out political comedy, while
edges of the city, many inhabited by former Winner (Map p230; 83rd St, 22/23; per hr K1000;
Mandalay Marionettes (p241) keep the
squatters once at home in the city’s central h8am-8pm)
tradition of puppetry on the stage
area. The Chinese presence has grown by a
Mandalay’s shopping (p241) is the Mandalay great deal since the easing of foreign trade
Marionettes & MANDALAY ADDRESSES
country’s best – options include old and Culture Show restrictions with Myanmar’s northerly
Shwe ln Bin
new puppets and finely embroidered Kyaung & neighbour. Many new office buildings, 10- A street address that reads 66th (26/27)
kalaga (tapestries) Monk District
storey hotels and department stores have means the place is located on 66th St
Moustache
A bike ride is best through the leafy, Brothers Troupe flourished along downtown blocks. between 26th and 27th Sts. Some of the
longer east–west streets take names once
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
off-the-beaten-track Monk District, home
to hundreds of robed monks; the jade ORIENTATION they cross the Shweta Chaung (Shweta
market (p242); and the intricate wooden Mahamuni Paya The hill with the huge grounds of old Man- Canal) heading west. Hence 19th St be-
monastery Shwe In Bin Kyaung (p234) dalay Palace at its base is the natural focus comes Inwa St, 22nd St becomes Pinya St,
of Mandalay. The city sprawls away to the 26th St becomes Bayintnaung Rd and 35th
south and west of the fort, bounded on the St becomes Yangyiaung Rd.
TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: 801,000 ELEVATION: 74M
west by the Ayeyarwady River.
228 MA N D A L AY www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • S i g h t s 229
0 1 km
MANDALAY 0 0.5 miles
INFORMATION
Main Hospital........................................ 1 C4
Zoological Garden (East Entrance)........17 C2
Zoological Garden (South Entrance).....18 C2
Minn Thi Ha Teashop...........................33 B5
Oriental House...................................(see 30)
ὈὈ
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)........... 2 D4 Zoological Gardens..............................19 C2 Too Too Restaurant............................. 34 C4
A B C D New Horizon Travels..............................3 B5
SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel...................20 C2 Mandalay Marionettes &
Asia Centre Driving Range.....................4 C2 Mandalay View Inn.............................. 21 D4 Culture Show..................................35 D4
Atumashi Kyaung.................................. 5 D2 Pacific Hotel.........................................22 B4 Moustache Brothers Troupe.................36 B5
1 Golf
Kuthodaw Paya......................................6 D2 Power Hotel.........................................23 B5
Mandalay
Course Hill Kyauktawgyi Paya..................................7 D2 Royal City Hotel...................................24 B4 SHOPPING
Approximate Scale
76th St
Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung........................8 A5 Sedona Hotel Mandalay....................... 25 D4 Gold-Leaf Makers.................................37 B5
Mahamuni Paya.....................................9 B6 Tiger Hotel...........................................26 B5 Jade Market......................................... 38 A5
iver
Main Palace Entrance Mann Shwe Gon..................................39 C4

y R
(Foreign Tourist Entrance)................10 D3 EATING Stone-Carvers' Workshops...................40 B6

Old Mandalay Palace Compound................11 C3 Aya Myit Tar Myanmar Restaurant.......27 B5 Sunflower Arts & Crafts.....................(see 32)
wad
Racecourse
4 Sandamani Paya...................................12 D2 Barbecue Restaurants...........................28 D4 Temple Paraphenalia............................(see 9)
yar
Shwe In Bin Kyaung.............................13 A5 BBB......................................................29 C4

Aye
Shwenandaw Kyaung.......................... 14 D2 Green Elephant.................................... 30 D4 TRANSPORT

16 Military Tomb of King Mindon..........................15 C3 Ko's Kitchen.........................................31 B3 Inland Water
20 Cemetery
Myauk Pyin 10th St 6 Yatanaban Swimming Pool..................16 C2 Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant........32 C4 Transport Office..............................41 A5
(North Mandalay) 19
11th St 12
Ὀ
ὈὈ
2 17
18 7
North Moat St (12th St) 14
Medical Services New Horizon Travels (Map p230; %60767; 122 36th St,
5
14th St Main Hospital (Map p228; 30th St, 74/77) 78/79; h8am-5.30pm) This is a helpful branch of a depend-
able Yangon agency. Staff can help find long-term drivers,
al
Mandalay 12th St
Can
Fort Moat
16th St
Palace
14th St
Money arrange guides, make hotel reservations and sell tickets.
Nandawun
Kyaw Kyaw Aung Email (Map p230; 27th St, 80/81;
Park
16th St h9am-6pm) Has iffy Internet, but can cash American SIGHTS
18th St Culture 15
To Yankin Express or Thomas Cook travellers cheques at a whopping Mandalay Hill
mNÿel"et;='
31 Museum 10
Paya (2.5km)
Inwa St 11
19th St
20% commission.
3 Nan Myint (Map p230; 29th St) This shop can use Visa or Many people begin a Mandalay stay at the
ta
Shwe
20th St
21st St MasterCard on purchases of US$100 or more. one place that breaks out of the pancake-
East Moat St
Pinya St
Myainghaywun
Park
Sedona Hotel (see p238; 26th St) At research time, the flat plain, 230m-high Mandalay Hill (Map p228;
22nd St
23rd St Sedona was the only hotel that accepted credit cards.
See Central Mandalay Map p230-1 24th St
To Mingun Post THE US$10 COMBO TICKET
Ferrry (500m) 25th St
Bayintnaung Rd
26th St 21 DHL Express Office (Map p228; 22nd St; %39274) Can- Since 2002 the government has charged
29
27th St
32 Mandalay Swan
25 30 not send packages to the USA, because of the sanctions. foreign tourists a combo US$10 ticket fee
24 34 Hotel To Peacock
28th St
39 2 35 Lodge (150m) Main post office (Map p228; 22nd St; h9.30am-3pm (for the ‘Mandalay Archaeological Zone’)
4 Mon-Fri) Next door to the DHL office; sends your postcards
74th St
that includes entrance to Amarapura (p248)
Ὀ
63rd St
29th St
65th St
overseas for K75. Mail is free (up to 7000g!) if you’re blind. and Inwa (Ava; p251) outside the city, plus
62nd St
Mandalay 1
84th St
85th St
82nd St
66th St
30th St
83rd St
80th St
81st St
70th St
22
71st St
entry to all of the following Mandalay sites

68th St
77th St
31st St 28
Telephone (easily Mandalay’s biggest attractions):
32nd St
Local calls can be made for K200 from street
73rd St
To Gawwein Jetty
for Bagan, Pyay & 33rd St
Atumashi Kyaung (p232)
stands all over Mandalay.
79th St
Katha Ferries (500m)

76th St
Market
l
Cultural Museum Mandalay (p231)

ana
34th St Central Telephone & Telegraph (CTT; Map p230;

75th St
gC
Yangyiaung Rd
41
26th St; calls to Europe/North America/Thailand per min Kuthodaw Paya (p232)
aun
35th St
Ch
Thakawun 36th St
na
l US$3.20/4.50/1.40; h7am-8.30pm) Make expensive in- Mahamuni Paya (p234)
Ta
Kyaung 37 a To Pyin U Lwin

5 13 3 iC (Maymyo; 68km) ternational calls at this official-looking, unsigned building
we
Kin Wun 27 26 37th St yN

Mandalay Palace (p233)
Ng
Ya
Th
Kyaung 33 38th St set back from the street.

ing
Yar Entertainment
a
78th St
zar 38 Paleik Paya (p252)

District 39th St
36
Tourist Information
Saigaing-Mandalay Rd
8
Can
23 Shwenandaw Kyaung (p232)

40th St
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Map p230; %60356;
al
41st St cnr 68th & 27th Sts; h9am-5pm) The government-run At research time, not all places checked
Mandalay Arts & tourist office, behind the Mandalay Swan Hotel, can book for the ticket; sometimes a secondary en-
Sciences University
package trips to Mogok (per person US$400; minimum of trance bypasses the government fee collec-
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
two people) or in mid-January to Khamti (aka Naga Land; tor. Some travellers report that local guides
6 from Mandalay/Yangon US$670/920) to witness the Naga were able to steer them clear of fees in all
40
9 To Highway
people’s New Year celebrations on January 15. Only MTT but the palace. Ten dollars may sound steep,
Bus Station (7km);
Lashio Taxi Stand (7km);
can arrange trips to these destinations. For either, you’ll but at least a visit now is cheaper than when
Theik Pan St
To Inwa (21km);
Sagaing (21km)
Airport (45km);
Yangon (695km)
need to book seven days in advance. MTT staff members each sight charged up to US$5 admission.
speak English and sell a Mandalay map for K100.
230 MA N D A L AY • • C e n t r a l M a n d a l a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • S i g h t s 231
CENTRAL MANDALAY 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
INFORMATION
Central Telephone & Telegraph (CTT)....1 D3
Nylon Hotel..........................................18
Royal Guest House...............................19
B2
C3
Night Market....................................... 37 D4
Zeigyo (Central Market).......................38 B3
DHL Express Office..............................(see 6) Sabai Phyu Hotel..................................20 C3
A B C D Kyaw Kyaw Aung Email..........................2 C3 Silver Star Hotel....................................21 C3 TRANSPORT
Micro-Electronics Email Service...............3 C2 Silver Swan Hotel..................................22 B5 Air Mandalay Office............................. 39 C3
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)........... 4 D5 Taung Za Lat Hotel..............................23 C3 Leo Express...........................................40 B5
21st St Nan Myint.............................................5 D4 Unity Hotel...........................................24 C3 Mann Shwe Pyi....................................41 B5
88th St
Post Office.............................................6 D2 Universe Hotel.....................................25 C4 Monywa & Shwebo

87th St
1 Winner...................................................7 C2 Bus Station.......................................42 A1
83rd St
EATING Mr Htoo Bicycles...................................43 B3
82nd St
81st St
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chapati Stand.......................................26 C3 Myanma Airways Office.......................44 C3
42 Cultural Museum Mandalay...................8 D2 Lashio Lay Restaurant...........................27 B2
Approximate Scale New Seven Star Tours..........................45 C4
Judson Baptist Church............................ 9 C6 Mann Restaurant..................................28 C3 Pick-ups to Amarapura,
Nepali Food..........................................29 C3 Ava & Sagaing..................................46 B4
22nd St
SLEEPING Nylon Ice Cream Bar.............................30 B3 Pick-ups to the Highway
6 AD1 Hotel............................................10 A4 Produce Market....................................31 B3 Bus Station...................................(see 49)
Bonanza...............................................11 C4 Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe..............................32 D2 Pyay Bus Office....................................47 C5
Mosque
Classic Hotel.........................................12 B2 Shwe Taung Food Centre.....................33 C6 Pyin U Lwin &
Dream Hotel........................................13 D3 Snack Vendors.....................................34 C4 Hsipaw Bus Ticket Office.................48 C5
27 23rd St
ET Hotel...............................................14 C2 Pyin U Lwin Share Taxis.......................49 C3
12 14 Mandalay City Hotel............................15 C3 SHOPPING Shwe Airport Taxi................................. 50 C4
Mother's World Hotel..........................16 D3 Blazon..................................................35 D4 Toe Express.......................................... 51 C5
Fort Moat
2 Shwekyimyint
3 Paya Myit Phyar Ayer Hotel......................... 17 D6 FUJI Film............................................. 36 D4 Yangon Airways Office........................ 52 C3
24th St
Mandalay
84th St
7 8 Palace
camera/video camera fee K350/1000). Visitors can taxi the 11th century, but in 1908 the curator of
18
32 halfway up along a switchback road (alleg- the Peshawar Museum discovered the actual
80th St
19 25th St
edly built with the aid of forced labour), relic casket during excavations. Although
30 Sacred Heart 52
To Mingun Ferry
Clock 43
28 Cathedral 44 where an escalator leads to the top and an Peshawar had once been a great Buddhist
Bayintnaung Rd Tower
23
1
elevator goes back down (it’s too steep up centre, it had by that time been Muslim for
26th St
86th St 38
20
for trishaw drivers). Alternatively, you can many centuries; therefore, the British gov-
83rd St
Central
3 Market
Mosque make the half-hour barefoot climb that ernment presented these important relics to
15 39
81st St
31
29
2
takes in numerous Buddha and nat shrines; the Burmese Buddhist Society.
21
49
24
27th St
13 there are many pleasant places to stop for Close to the top of the hill is a huge stand-
Eindawya
a rest or a drink. At the top the reward is a ing Buddha image that looks out towards the
87th St
26
nal
82nd St
Paya Hindu
Eindawya St Hindu
79th St
Temple Hindu 16
Ca
10
Temple
45
Temple full panoramic view – the hazy blue outline royal palace with its outstretched hand
Eindawya-Sintada St
28th St
25 34
11
of the Shan hills to the east, the Mandalay pointing in that direction. It’s not saying
Night
28th St Palace (and city sprawl) to the south and the ‘go back’ but pointing to where the Buddha
Ayeyarwady to the west. prophesised the location of the future cap-
St
Market
35
86th
Mosque Police The camera fees are collected at the top ital. According to legend, the Buddha, ac-
4 Station
29th St 5 37
of the hill. companied by his disciple Ananda, climbed
46 29th St
Those walking the whole way will likely Mandalay Hill while on one of his visits to
eta
Fire Lookout 36
Tower
sweat off some of the previous night’s Myanmar. There he prophesied that, in the
Shw
50
chapatis. But the trek’s not that hard. You 2400th year of his faith, a great city would
30th St
Mandalay
can start at either of two entrances on the be founded below the hill. By our calendar
30th St
south side (which wind their way up and that 2400th year was 1857 – the year King
83rd St
85th St
Paya
82nd St
84th St
4 Pedestrian
meet halfway to the top), or make a steeper Mindon Min decreed the move from Ama-
80th St
Setkyathiha Overpass
81st St
Paya
31st St
ascent from the west. Two immense carved rapura to Mandalay.
31st St lions guard the southwest entrance to the Those interested in military history can
79th St
5 hill, and the southeast entrance is watched also find a monument to the British regi-
78th St
41 47
32nd St
32nd St
over by the Bobokyi Nat (Boboki spirit). ment that retook the hill from the Japanese
22 51 48 Leave your shoes with the attendants (the in 1945. The monument is in a small build-
40
33rd St fee is K100) or keep them out of view in ing attached to one of the shrines at the top
33rd St
a bag. For most of the year it makes most of a wide, steep flight of steps.
sense to climb before 10am or after 4pm to
9
17
avoid the midday heat. Cultural Museum Mandalay
34th St
The first shrine you come to, halfway up mNÿel"¨ptiuk'
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
34th St
the hill, contains the so-called Peshawar Rel- This museum (Map p230; %24603; cnr 24th & 80th
6 ics, three bones of the Buddha. The relics Sts; admission US$10 combo ticket; h9.30am-4.30pm
35th St
Father Lafonís
Catholic Church
were originally sent to Peshawar, now in Tue-Sun) features a collection of Mandalay re-
33
Pakistan, by the great Indian king Asoka. galia, royally commissioned art and palm-
To Mahamuni
Paya The stupa (Buddhist religious monument) leaf manuscripts, coins, and Bagan-period
into which they were built was destroyed in Buddha images. It’s not brilliant, but it can
232 MA N D A L AY • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • S i g h t s 233
get you out of the sun (or rain); staff mem- one person would take 450 days to read the of the exterior panels have weathered badly one day’s labour per month). The new ver-
bers don’t always seem to check if you have complete ‘book’. King Mindon convened and some have been removed. At one time sion sports a concrete construction topped
the US$10 ticket or not. the 5th Buddhist Synod and used a team the building was gilded and decorated with by aluminium roofs. Many visitors abhor
of 2400 monks to read the whole book in a glass mosaics. The carved panels inside are the reconstruction. Considering the toil
Sandamani Paya nonstop relay lasting nearly six months! In still in excellent condition, particularly the taken to build it, many locals do too. The
cNÌ;mu,i.ur;" 1900 a paper edition of the stone original 10 Jataka (past-life stories of the Buddha). pavilions and most of the wall are original.
To the southeast of Mandalay Hill, close to was printed in 38 volumes, each with about
the bus stop and near the road up to the hill, 400 pages. A 730th slab in the corner of the Kyauktawgyi Paya HISTORY
is the Sandamani Paya (Map p228). Similar to inner enclosure tells of the construction of ekY;k'et;'äkI".ur;" The original palace was more than just royal
Kuthodaw (below), which is to the east, off this amazing book. Directly south of Mandalay Hill (across living quarters; it was a walled city within
the main road, the slightly run-down San- 66th St from the previous sights) stands Mandalay. It served as the home to two Bur-
damani features a cluster of slender white- Atumashi Kyaung the Kyauktawgyi Paya (Map p228), built over mese kings, King Mindon Min (who built
washed stupas built on the site of King atumrHiekY;='" a 25-year period that ended in 1878. The the palace in 1857) and King Thibaw (who
Mindon’s temporary palace while the new Recently rebuilt by convict labour, the Atu- pagoda’s nice enough, but its fame comes lived here until British forces seized the city
Mandalay Palace was under construction. mashi Kyaung (Map p228; admission US$10 combo ticket) from its central occupant: an 8m, 900-tonne in 1885). Afterwards, the British used the
King Mindon had come to power after stands a couple of hundred metres south of Buddha, carved from a single block of mar- palace as the colony’s government house
the successful overthrow of King Pagan Min, Kuthodaw. Originally built by King Mindon ble. The marble block (from the mines of and British Club, packing King Thibaw off
an operation in which he had been assisted in 1857, at the same time as the Kuthodaw, nearby Sagyin) was so colossal, it’s said, to India.
by his younger brother Prince Kanaung. this kyaung (Burmese Buddhist monastery) that 10,000 men spent 13 days transport- The Japanese held Mandalay for much of
Mindon tended to concentrate on religious features the traditional Burmese monastic ing it from a canal to the current site. Or- WWII. In March 1945, amid fierce fighting
matters and leave the niceties of secular rule construction – a masonry base topped by a namented with royal attire, the image was from advancing British and Indian troops,
to his brother, but in 1866 Prince Kanaung wooden building – but instead of the usual completed and dedicated in 1865. the royal palace caught fire and was de-
was assassinated in an unsuccessful revolt multiroofed design it has graduated rectan- Around the shrine are figures of the Bud- stroyed. Only the huge walls and moat, the
inspired by Prince Myingun. The Sanda- gular terraces. Atumashi was once home to a dha’s 80 arahats (enlightened disciples), ar- base on which the reconstructed palace
mani Paya was built as a memorial to Prince famous Buddha image clothed in king’s silk ranged in groups of 20 on each of the four buildings stand, and a few masonry build-
Kanaung on the spot where he was killed. clothing and with a huge diamond set on its sides. In a building in the southeast of the ings and tombs remain of the original pal-
The paya enshrines an iron image of the forehead, but the image was stolen following compound are a giant alms bowl and col- ace. Beyond, in the restricted areas around
Buddha cast in 1802 by Bodawpaya and the British takeover of the city in 1885. Five ourful renderings of King Mindon’s visit the palace, Myanmar soldiers live in meagre
transported here from Amarapura in 1874. years later, a fire gutted the monastery and here in 1865. barracks and grow fruit and vegetables for
Around the stupa lies a collection of 1774 destroyed its contents (including four com- Originally, this paya, like its namesake a little extra money.
marble slabs inscribed with commentaries plete sets of the Tripitaka in teak boxes). in Amarapura, would be modelled on the
on the Tripitaka (Buddhist canon). Another The renovated version is most impressive famous Ananda Pahto of Bagan (p300), but THE SITE
project of the venerable U Khanti, they were from outside (the basement area is particu- due to a palace rebellion this grand plan was Visitors are allowed to tour the central oval-
erected in 1913. larly betel splattered). not carried through. shaped site, which is surrounded by a ring
The government doesn’t (yet) charge to Mandalay’s biggest festival is held at road, and a couple of sites in the field im-
visit here. Shwenandaw Kyaung Kyauktawgyi Paya for seven days in early to mediately northeast of the entrance. In the
eránn'"et;'ekY;='" mid-October to commemorate Thadingyut oval area, several crimson and gold pavil-
Kuthodaw Paya Just east of the Atumashi Kyaung stands the (see p341). ions loom ahead. Within the palace compound
kusiul'et;'.ur;" wooden Shwenandaw Kyaung (Golden Palace Monas- (to the left of the Mye Nan Pyathat temple,
Frequently dubbed ‘the world’s biggest tery; Map p228; admission US$10 combo ticket). This mon- Mandalay Palace & Fort where the US$10 combo ticket is asked for,
book’ for its surrounding 729 marble slabs astery is of great interest, not only as a fine The overwhelming centrepiece of Manda- or sold) is the 33m watchtower, Nan Myint
(apparently fewer than Sandamani’s count, example of a traditional Burmese wooden lay, the palace compound (Map p228; admission US$10 Saung, where you can climb the spiral stairs
but why fuss over details?), the Kuthodaw monastery, but also as a fragile reminder of combo ticket; h7.30am-5pm), sprawling south of to get views of the compound and city.
Paya (Maha Lawka Marazein Paya; Map p228; admission the old Mandalay Palace. It was once part of Mandalay Hill, is surrounded by a fort made The central pavilion, just west of the
US$10 combo ticket) sees a lot of worship – and the palace complex – King Mindon lived here, up of immense 3.2km-long, 8m-high walls ‘Hall of Victory’, is the so-called Glass Palace,
tourists. The entire 15 books of the Tripitaka and in fact died in the building. Afterwards, and guarded by a 70m-wide moat. Visitors where kings lived. The last building on the
are inscribed on the slabs, each of which is King Thibaw Min had the building disman- can enter at the east gate only (by trishaw, site’s west side is the Culture Museum, which
housed in its own small stupa. Building of tled and reassembled outside the walls; it taxi, bicycle etc), where a road passes off- includes 13 life-size models of former cabi-
the paya commenced in 1857, the same time became a monastery in 1880. It’s a good thing road army barracks to the royal palace site, net members in traditional attire; signs in
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
work began on the royal palace. Kuthodaw he did, as all the other royal buildings were surrounded by an internal ring road in the English tell their tale. One cabinet member,
was modelled on the Shwezigon Paya at lost to WWII bombs. It’s said that Thibaw centre. Prince Kanaung, is given props for being
Nyaung U, Bagan (see p309). used the building for meditation, and the The rebuilding of the crimson and gold ‘very clever’ as he ‘sent young scholars to
It took an editorial committee of over 200 couch on which he sat can still be seen. palace was stained the use of prison and western (sic) countries to study’. (Not ex-
to produce the original slabs. It has been es- The building is covered inside and out forced local labour in the late ’90s (when actly the same message the government gives
timated that, reading for eight hours a day, with carved panels, but unfortunately many young males in Mandalay had to contribute today.)
234 MA N D A L AY • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • A c t i v i t i e s 235
About 100m northeast of the oval palace face and even brushes its teeth – an event The surrounding villagelike neighbour- ACTIVITIES
compound is the tomb of King Mindon. It still worth getting up to see. hood is like a monk’s district, with hundreds The outdoor Yatanaban Swimming Pool (Map p228;
has a little of its former gilded glory, when it In the northwestern corner of the outer of robed monks walking to and from smaller admission K200; h5am-6pm), next to the east en-
was decorated with glass mosaics. An 1898 courtyard, a small building houses six bronze monasteries on the leafy lanes, or playing trance to the Zoological Garden, is the best
restoration obliterated all traces of the ear- Khmer figures brought back from Rakhaing football. One of the other more contem- bet for a cheap dip. A restaurant, bumper
lier craftsmanship. The large open sheds – along with the Mahamuni Buddha. Three are porarily active monasteries, Ma Soe Yein Nu cars and a karaoke club surround the Olym-
back towards the road – contain over 600 lions (the heads of which have been replaced Kyaung, is just across the bridge to the south pic-sized pool, which is generally pretty quiet
inscribed stone slabs that were collected by with ones in the Burmese style), two are im- from Shwe In Bin. during the heat of the day. The kids’ pool
King Bodawpaya (r 1782–1819) and were ages of the Hindu god Shiva, and one is Aira- looked thoroughly urinated in, but the main
later moved to the palace from Amarapura vata, the three-headed elephant. Originally, Other Sights pool was OK. Pay at the stand under the
just before WWII. Other reminders of the these figures were enshrined at Angkor Wat The Zoological Garden (Map p228; %60267; admis- bleachers on the far side.
former glory of the old palace are the Royal in Cambodia; they were taken from Ang- sion K1500; h8am-6pm) has a small collection Asia Centre Driving Range (Map p228; %64583;
Mint and the Sabbath Hall, which are also kor by the Thais in 1431. King Bayinnaung of animals. It can be entered from the south club hire per club/half set K300/1500; tray of 60 balls ‘1st
close by. subsequently looted them from Ayuthaya in (north of the palace walls) or from the east, class’/dented ‘2nd class’ K800/300; h6am-7pm), north
Foreign visitors must enter the com- 1564 and brought them to Bago, where in near the Mandalay Hill Resort. of the zoo, has a line of shaded, fan-cooled
pound from the gate on the eastern wall. 1663 they were nabbed by King Razagyi of Mandalay has several churches and outdoor spots facing Mandalay Hill. You
Rakhaing. (That’s a lot of nabbing.) Accord- mosques among the many temples, includ- can hire clubs. Ask here about playing the
Mahamuni Paya ing to legend, rubbing a part of the image ing the Judson Baptist Church (Map p230; 82nd St, nearby golf course (green fee US$30, caddie
mh;mu,i.ur;" will cure any affliction on the correspond- 33/34), named for the American missionary K500).
In southwest Mandalay, off the road towards ing part of your own body. Local legend has who has virtually become a saint in Myan-
Amarapura, stands the Mahamuni Paya (Map it that there were once many more Khmer mar. Other key churches and mosques are DOWNTOWN WALKING TOUR
p228), one of Myanmar’s more famous Bud- figures here, but they were melted down by marked on the map.
dhist sites (it’s also known as Payagyi, or order of King Thibaw to cast cannons for the Yankin Paya, perched on Yankin Hill about
Big Paya, or the Rakhaing Paya). The gold defence of the Mandalay Palace. 3km east of Mandalay Palace, is a good spot Distance: 2.3km
and crimson site was originally built by King In the southeastern corner of the court- for watching sunsets. You can bike to its Duration: About two hours
Bodawpaya in 1784, when a brick road was yard are inscription stones collected by King base or go by the No 5 bus.
constructed from his palace to the paya’s Bodawpaya, who appears to have had quite
eastern gate. You can still find traces of this a thing for this pursuit.
royal highway. In 1884 the shrine was de- There are many interesting shop stalls at 3
stroyed by fire; the current one is compara- the entrance to the shrine (though the little
24th St Mandalay
tively recent. stone elephants are cheaper from the stone 2 Palace
The paya’s fame comes from its shrine carvers to the west; see p242. See p348 before
Fort Moat
centrepiece, the highly venerated Mahamuni you buy, though). This was one of the few 25th St
1
Buddha image, which was seized from Mrauk places in the country where photographs of
84th St
U (Myohaung) in Rakhaing (Arakan) State Aung San Suu Kyi were openly sold during 4
80th St
Clock
in 1784. It was believed to be of great age the long period of her house arrest. Bayintnaung Rd
Tower
even at that time and it may even have been During the Mahamuni Paya pwe (festi- 5
26th St
cast during the 1st century AD (though val) in early February, thousands of people
87th St
82nd St
83rd St
81st St
many in Rakhaing believe it to date from a from nearby districts make pilgrimages to
legendary visit by the Buddha in 554 BC). Mahamuni. The temple is always a centre 6
27th St
The 4m-high seated image is cast in bronze, of activity – including many palm readers Eindawya St 9
nal
but over the years thousands of devout Bud- and sly would-be ‘guides’ (have small notes
Ca
dhists have completely covered the figure in handy). Eindawya-Sintada St
28th St
a 15cm-thick layer of gold leaf. Only men 28th St
are permitted to walk up to the Mahamuni Shwe In Bin Kyaung
St
eráa='p='ekY;='" 8
86th
image and apply gold leaf. In the rainy sea-
son it is cloaked in monastic robes. On the lip of a rivulet, this large and elegant 29th St
During festivals the image is thronged by wooden monastery (Map p228; 89th & 38th Sts) dates
eta
so many worshippers that caretakers have from 1895, when a pair of wealthy Chinese
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
Shw
Approximate Scale
installed video monitors in other parts of the jade merchants commissioned it. Called 0 200 m
30th St
complex so that the Burmese can pay their simply ‘the teak monastery’ by many locals, 0 0.1 mi
Mandalay
respects to the Mahamuni’s video image; the central building stands elevated on tall
85th St
84th St
you’ll actually see people bowing down be- poles, and its balustrades and roof cornices 7
fore the TV screens. Each morning at 4am are covered in detailed engravings. It’s in-
a team of monks washes the Mahamuni’s credibly peaceful and seldom crowded.
236 MA N D A L AY • • M a n d a l a y f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • S l e e p i n g 237
Not much of Mandalay can be seen on foot, alleged leader, U Kettaya, received a life sen- Mahamuni Paya pwe This happens in early February, from the rest, in the most ‘kept-real’ quarter
but this loose tour takes in some (mostly) tence. (So take your shoes off.) when thousands of people from nearby districts make of Mandalay (between the crazy market and
secondary sights and the city’s most inter- OK, one more paya. Roam south to 30th pilgrimages to Mahamuni (see p234). Eindawya Paya), the friendly AD1 is on a
esting street life in a few hours. St and head a block east to reach the elevated Thadingyut Mandalay’s biggest festival is held in early to brick lane lined with shops selling gear to
Start a block from the Mandalay Palace Setkyathiha Paya (7; Map p230; 30th St; admission free). mid-October at Kyauktawgyi Paya (see p233) for seven days. monks. The halls are a little scuffed, but the
moat with tea at the Shwe Pyi Moe Café (1; It was badly damaged during WWII, but 27 rooms are clean and cute, with sky-blue
p240); if the desire strikes, take a cultural was subsequently repaired. Its main point SLEEPING tiles. Breakfast is served on the roof.
chaser a block north at the Cultural Museum of interest is the impressive 5m-high seated If you’re just off the bus/train/plane from Classic Hotel (Map p230; %32841; No 59 23rd St,
Mandalay (2; p231). Head west a couple of Buddha image, cast in bronze by King Bagyi- Yangon, expect greater value for your kyat. 83/84; s/d US$8/16; a) Near Lashio Lay Restau-
blocks to see the lushly shaded and peaceful daw in Inwa in 1823, just before the First If you’re staying cheaply, Mandalay’s guest- rant, in the north of downtown, the Classic
Shwekyimyint Paya (3; Map p230; btwn 23rd & 24th, Anglo-Burmese War broke out. Since then houses huddle in the walkable ‘downtown’ has tidy rooms with TV; it’s a bit pricier
82nd & 83rd Sts), which considerably predates it’s been moved to Amarapura in 1849 (dur- and most are up on travel info. than ET Hotel around the corner, without
Mandalay itself. Prince Minshinzaw (the ex- ing the Second Anglo-Burmese War) and Budget rooms are those where doubles a real jump up in quality.
iled son of King Alaungsithu) founded it in then returned to Mandalay in 1884 (just be- are US$16 and under; midrange rooms cost Mother’s World Hotel (Map p230; %33627; fax
1167, during the Bagan period. The shrine fore British troops overtook the city). Reclin- US$17 to US$35; and top-end rooms are 66802; No 58 79th St, 27/28; s/d US$10/18; a) The
is notable because it contains the original ing Buddha images can be seen in the paya more than US$17. From April to October it’s street’s a little trashy (it’s behind the train
Buddha image consecrated by the prince. It courtyard, along with a sacred bodhi tree likely that all places will have empty rooms station), but the hotel has well-kept car-
also contains many other images, made of planted by U Nu, a former prime minister waiting for you. Try calling at least a day or peted or green-tiled rooms with Chinese-
gold, silver or crystal, which were collected of Myanmar. two ahead at other times. style woodwork; single room No 506 has full
by later Myanmar kings and removed from From here, take a trishaw – or walk back All room rates include breakfast and have views of Mandalay Hill and the Shan hills.
Mandalay Palace after the British occupied via the night market (8; p242) on 84th St. If it’s private bathrooms with hot water unless Sabai Phyu Hotel (Map p230; %64506; No 58 81st
it. These images are only shown to the public after 4pm or 5pm, consider finishing the tour otherwise stated. St, 25/26; s/d US$4/8; a) The 20 slightly worn
on important religious occasions. The small, off with a hot chapati at the chapati stand (9; rooms here have green carpet or bubbly
glass-enclosed stupa (near the east entrance) p239) at the corner of 82nd and 27th Sts. Budget plastic-tiled floors. There are excellent views
houses several Buddha images. Royal Guest House (Map p230; %65697; No 41 25th St, from the breakfast area on the top floor.
Afterwards, take 83rd St south, perhaps MANDALAY FOR CHILDREN 82/83; s US$3-7, d US$6-10; a) In the city centre, Other downtown budget options (by the
stopping at Nylon Ice Cream Bar (4; p240), then Mandalay has no designated kid zones. Most Royal Guest House tends to be the cheapie look of their lobbies, they’re far swankier
turn right onto busy 26th St. Looming ahead children will get more out of the Mandalay that fills first. The scrubbed-clean rooms than the ones listed above but have little
is a clock tower, standing smack-dab in the Marionettes & Culture Show (p241) than are small but well designed. Free breakfast bonus value inside the rooms):
middle of 26th and 84th Sts on the northern the Moustache Brothers Troupe (p240). is served in the downstairs dining room. Bonanza Hotel (Map p230; %31031; cnr 28th & 82nd
side of the relocated zeigyo (central market; The Mandalay zoo (p235) has several ani- Guests can bring beer (from outside) to sit Sts; s US$7-10, d US$12-15; a) Higher-priced rooms
5; see p242). The original market, designed mals to see on shaded grounds. If a pwe in the tasteful garden out the front or on the have a bit more space.
in 1903 by Count Caldari (the Italian first is going there’s a lot of fun to be had – small top-floor terrace. The cheapest rooms Taung Za Lat Hotel (Map p230; %33967; No 60 81st
secretary of the Mandalay Municipality), was including live music, small rides and bal- have fan and shared bathroom; others have St, at 26th St; s/d US$10/15; a) Set up like a midrange
dismantled – much to the dismay of locals – loon-popping games. (Note that some can private bathroom with hot water; higher- hotel; no TV.
around 1990 and moved here to these two bring a drunken element out as the night priced rooms have TV. Tiger Hotel (Map p228; %23134; No 628 80th St; s/d
three-storey buildings done in People’s- wears on, so go early.) ET Hotel (Map p230; %65006; No 129 83rd St, 23/24; US$13/15; a) On a dusty road south of downtown.
Republic-of-China style. Less atmospheric, Some kids may enjoy taking close-up s US$5-6, d US$8-10; a) This friendly guesthouse Chinese-style woodwork adds some flair, and the front
for sure, but the market still represents a looks at the moat surrounding Mandalay near the Shan district has basic rooms and rooms have big windows.
fascinating collection of stalls and sells all Palace (p233); there’s a shady promenade on a book swap downstairs. Most rooms have
things Myanmar – plus a fair assortment of the southern side, not far from downtown. TV; cheaper ones have a fan.
smuggled goods. Many stores around town sell makeshift Nylon Hotel (Map p230; %66550, 60757; nylon@ THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
Squeeze past vendors on 27th St to the kites; dusk seems to be the peak hour for mandalay.net.mm; cnr 25th & 83rd Sts; s US$3-5, d US$6-10; Peacock Lodge (%33411, 61429; No 5 Myay-
west, then detour onto brick Eindawya St flying them along busy streets, particularly ai) A modern building above a generator padethar St, off 61st St, 25/26; s/d US$12/18; a)
(where shops sell monk gear) to reach the downtown. Note that some flyers use razor- shop, the Nylon has an array of rooms (most Lost in the back lanes east of the Palace
nicely proportioned but slightly scruffy webbed string and ‘war’ with each other. with air-con, some with TV). Rooms on the walls, the Peacock offers villagelike peace,
Eindawya Paya (6; Map p230), which is covered in Plenty of kites dangle from power lines 4th and 5th floors have big views (room 401 and the owners treat you like part of the
gold leaf that shimmers on sunny days. King around town. is a good cheapie up there). Free breakfast is family. Guests are likely to be offered a
Pagan Min built the paya in 1847. Eindawya served in the upstairs dining area. Internet whisky over a leisurely afternoon chat in the
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
was the site of one of Myanmar’s many small FESTIVALS & EVENTS is K1000 per hour. Helpful staff can arrange photo-filled TV room. The seven wooden-
battles for independence. In 1919 a group of Traditional pwe (small or massive) happen transport, but some guests have paid some floored rooms do fill up in the high season.
Europeans who defied the Buddhist ban on all the time, for a wedding, a birthday, a fu- extra commission on things like toilet paper Bicycles are available. A library of old books
shoe-wearing within Eindawya were forci- neral, a holiday and so on. You’ll see them in and taxis. includes a 1938 Mandalay phone book (lots
bly evicted by outraged monks. Four monks side streets and payas. Ask a trishaw driver AD1 Hotel (Map p230; %34505, 09-69 71116; Ein- of British names in there).
were convicted by a colonial court, and their if they’ve passed one. dawya Sintada St, 87/88; s/d US$3/6; a) A bit removed
238 MA N D A L AY • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • E a t i n g 239
Unity Hotel (Map p230; %35142; unityhotel@mptmail Dream Hotel (Map p230; %60470; dream.mdy@mptmail long-running brick-floored hole-in-the-wall Indian & Nepali
.net.mm; cnr 27th & 82nd Sts; s US$12-16, d US$14-18; .net.mm; No 152 27th St, 80/81; s/d US$12/24; a) serves Mandalay’s best traditional dishes. Mandalay has many a chapati, veggie curry
a) Building has a lift. Higher-priced rooms have a small Pacific Hotel (Map p228; %32506; cnr 30th & 78th Sts; Go to the counter at the back and pick-and- and dhal filling grateful tummies, particu-
sitting area and a desk. r US$25; a) Across from the train station. point what you want – catfish curry, prawn larly in crater-in-the-wall restaurants around
Power Hotel (Map p228; %32406; No 686 80th St, fish ball, fried chicken. Everything comes downtown. You can find a cluster on 27th St
Midrange 39/40; s/d US$15/20; a) with rice and a tableful of condiments. The between 80th and 81st Sts.
Many of Mandalay’s midrange hotels don’t Universe Hotel (Map p230; %33246; No 215 83rd St, soups are tasty too. Nepali Food (Map p230; 81st St, 266/27; dishes K900;
reward the extra dollars and seem to run 27/28; s/d US$15/20; a) Asian pop lounge on 10th floor. Lashio Lay Restaurant (Map p230; No 65 23rd St; h7am-9.30pm) Our favourite veggie curries
off the same template: a 10-storey Chinese- dishes K300-400; h8am-10pm) One of a couple of came from this place, run by a welcoming
style building with door guy, elevator and The government-run Mandalay Swan Hotel great Shan restaurants in the area (and with Nepali family. The thali (dollops of curry
rather unloved clean rooms. Here are some is not recommended. the best food downtown), this two-floor spot served on banana leaves or a metal plate)
that rise above the norm. is constantly crammed. Two dozen Shan features three curries (the banana-leaf one
Royal City Hotel (Map p228; %31805; No 130 27th Top End dishes (mostly curries with rice, plus several is particularly good), chapati, rice and dhal.
St, 76/77; s US$13-15, d US$18-20; a) Owned by Mandalay’s high-end hotels can’t compare vegetarian options daily) are on offer, served There’s no meat, no alcohol and no eggs.
the proprietors of the Royal Guest House, with the standards of Yangon’s. under blazing fans by attendants sporting a Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant (Map p228; 27th
and likewise the top of its price bracket, Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel (Map p228; %35688; yellow, green and red Shan flag. St, 74/75; dishes K600-1400; h8am-9pm, closed May) Run
the polished Royal City often fills up. Its fax 35639; [email protected]; standard r US$90 Aya Myit Tar Myanmar Restaurant (Map p228; by a smiling Indian Catholic family, this
big rooms, stylishly decked, come with TV, & US$120, ste US$150-$500; as) This former 81st St; meals K800-1900; h8.30am-9.30pm) Near the traveller-oriented restaurant serves all veggie
phone and serious views from the wood- French-run Novotel (now a Thai joint ven- Moustache Brothers and between Maha- meals (the sign out the front says, ‘be kind to
framed windows. Breakfast is served on the ture) sits impressively between the north end muni Paya and downtown, this airy two- animals by not eating them’). The tasty las-
outdoor/indoor roof garden, facing east for of the Palace and Mandalay Hill. Rooms are room restaurant sees a busy local crowd. sis are made with purified water. Also there
sunrise. fine, but the bathrooms are notably small, Staff members speak minimal English, but are plenty of chapati meals (aubergine dip
Mandalay View Inn (Map p228; %61119; mandalay even in the suites. The pool is super, though, there’s an English menu for traditional with vegetables is a nice choice) and Western
[email protected]; No 17B 66th St, 26/27; r US$30- and there are two bars and a restaurant. dishes – including lobster curry for K1900 – breakfasts. The two-floor restaurant/home is
35; a) Though there’s really no view (other Sedona Hotel Mandalay (Map p228; %36488; that come with the usual condiments. down a lane, roughly midway between 74th
than of the Sedona Hotel across the street), fax 36499; www.sedonahotels.com.sg; cnr 26th & 66th Sts; Green Elephant (Map p228; %61237; No 3H 27th and 75th Sts. The family also runs an impres-
this family-style hotel near the Palace is a superior r US$108, deluxe r US$120; as) This pala- St; curries K2000-4000, soups K1000-1500; h10am-9pm) sive antiques shop (see p242).
welcoming place with a dozen rooms, which tial hotel (a Singaporean joint venture) faces This great upscale restaurant, one of a few in
wins fans of its guests. The higher-priced the southeastern corner of the palace. Rooms the area, occupies a pretty colonial-era build- Chinese
rooms are worth the US$5, with wood floors are a bit standard for the price, but the pool ing. There are bamboo-covered areas in the Several Chinese restaurants can be found
and a small balcony. All rooms have satellite sprawls, and the deluxe views of the Palace garden, and period-piece relics (including on 83rd St between 25th and 26th Sts, not
TV. Reserve a table ahead. moat and far-off Mandalay Hill can’t be beat. a green elephant called ‘Freddie’ – just jok- far from the zeigyo.
Myit Phyar Ayer Hotel (Map p230; %66521; fax Also, at research time, this hotel was the only ing, it’s not named) in the air-conditioned Mann Restaurant (Map p230; 83rd St; dishes K600-
35646; No 568 80th St, 33/34; s/d US$20/25; a) This is one in town that accepted credit cards. rooms inside. Beef curry with soy paste and 800; h7am-10pm) This bare-bones downtown
the nicest of the Chinese-style hotels down- Mandalay City Hotel (Map p230; %36136; fax lime leaves (K3000) delivers the goods. The eatery attracts red-faced local men drinking
town. Marionettes and wood statues adorn 61705; [email protected]; s/d US$50/55; sprawling menu includes Chinese and Thai Tiger Beer presented by a Ms Tiger rep, and
the lushly air-con lobby; rooms have wood as) Opened in 2004, this locally run hotel dishes too. more than a handful of foreigners huddled
floors, sitting areas and satellite TVs. features a lush garden and a lit-at-night pool Shwe Taung Food Centre (Map p230; %23127; 35th over guidebooks. The food’s good, and the
Silver Star Hotel (Map p230; %33394; cnr 27th St in a very unlikely location in a lot behind St; meat dishes K1500-2500, veg dishes K800-1000; h10am-
& 83rd St; s/d US$20/25; a) The high-rise Silver stores (a bus station used to be here). The 9.30pm) If you must have air-con, this rather
Star follows the same template as most mid- hotel seemed to rush its opening (there are formal place, south of downtown, serves a THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE:
range options, but, opened in 2004, it’s some awkward room designs and so on), but cool breeze along with Myanmar fare. There’s CHAPATIS AT DUSK
newer than most others in this category. it’s the cheapest hotel in town with a pool. a nightly music performance at 7.30pm. For people watching and price, nothing
Rooms are slightly scented. Some locals advise that Burmese food is beats the unnamed open-air chapati stand
Silver Swan Hotel (Map p230; %32178; silverswan EATING best at lunch (when it’s freshest), and go for (Map p230; cnr 27th & 82nd Sts; meals under K300;
[email protected]; No 568 83rd St, 32/33; s US$15-20, Mandalay offers a bit more eating potential Chinese or Indian later on. A key excep- h5-9pm) where diners in turbans, longyi
d US$20-25; ai) Rooms atop this towering beyond the usual rice-and-curry shops you tion can be found at the hopping barbecue (sarong-style lower garments), skullcaps
hotel (slightly nicer than some midrange see around the country. But not a lot. Those restaurants (Map p228; 30th St, 65/66), which are and an occasional traveller’s backpack sop
deals) come with a view. Pricier rooms have looking for fresh goods can go to the produce best after dark. Each has open-air and in- up veggie and meat curries with just-made
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bathtubs (as opposed to showers) and a bit market (Map p230; 86th St, 26/28) off the canal side seats with fans. Out the front, pick the chapatis. It hops in the early evening as
more space. Some package holidaymakers between 26th and 28th Sts. skewers of meat (pork, chicken, whole fish) rush-hour traffic – and kids with kites – fill
fill the rooms in December and January. or a couple of veggie options (lady fingers, the roads and airways around the tiny
Midrange places with similar (but slightly Bamar & Shan spiced bean curd) and hand to the cooks. wooden-stool and plastic-chair sitting areas
less appealing) rooms than other midrange Too Too Restaurant (Map p228; 27th St, 74/75; meals A full meal plus a beer or two runs around on the footpath.
options are listed following: K800; h10am-9pm) Many locals vow that this K3000 to K4000.
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place is an easy walk from most guesthouses. for locals and downtown-based travellers,
There are lots of horns on the walls. the Nylon has outside tables (the shade starts MOUSTACHE BROTHERS – FROM SLAPSTICK TO SATIRE
Oriental House (Map p228; %61143; cnr 27th & in the afternoon) worth lingering for in the A Moustache Brothers show is not just a glimpse of a traditional a-nyeint pwe (a vaudeville folk
64th Sts; dim sum per piece K200; h6.30am-2pm dim evening. A scoop of chocolate, strawberry opera with dance, music, jokes and silly walks); it’s about artists brave enough to continue their
sum, 5-9pm dinner) This big banquet hall – with or vanilla ice cream is K200. The shakes and work in a country where a joke can get you jailed – or worse. Two of the ‘brothers’ know this all
waterfalls out the front, kiddie toys in the lassis are good too. You can get a Myanmar too well. In 1996, after telling politically tinged jokes about Myanmar generals at an Independ-
huge ground floor and more seating up- Beer – to stay or go – for K1000. ence Day celebration at Aung San Suu Kyi’s compound in Yangon, Par Par Lay and bare-faced
stairs – is best for its midday dim sum. Snack vendors (mostly serving Indian cousin Lu Zaw (two-thirds of the troupe) were seized by police and sentenced to seven years’
desserts and sweet rice) fill the downtown hard labour. Initially they worked amid violent criminals, breaking rocks for roads and digging
Thai streets from 4pm. A good place is in front ditches, and were unable to receive visits from their family.
Ko’s Kitchen (Map p228; %34214; cnr 19th & 80th of the mosque on 82nd St between 27th and In 1997 several Hollywood comedians (including Rob Reiner and political comedian Bill Maher)
Sts; soups & dishes K1700-4500; h11.30am-2.30pm & 28th Sts (Map p230). wrote to the government in protest. Meanwhile, Par Par Lay’s brother, the outgoing Lu Maw,
5.30-10pm) This snazzy two-floor restaurant, kept up the show here with his wife.
facing the Palace walls and moat, smacks of DRINKING After serving five years of their seven-year sentence, Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw were released
a Western version of Thai (ie quite comfy See left for details of a couple of teashops in 2002. The Moustache Brothers remain ‘blacklisted’ from playing at outside events (marriages,
and cool) and has a big menu, including a in Mandalay. funerals, festivals and so on) – and continue to be off the government’s lists of artists that locals
knock-out prawn hotpot and several north- can legally hire. So the brothers celebrated the occasion at home with a series of gala perform-
ern Thai specialties, including eggplant Beer Stations ances, attended – inevitably – by government agents with video cameras.
chilli dip and crispy pork skin. A favourite Mandalay doesn’t have pubs and bars (it’s The regional commander soon summoned Par Par Lay and told him not to perform at home
salad is the yam pla duk foo (spicy catfish Myanmar after all). A couple of buzzing any more. When he got home, some Westerners had already gathered for that night’s show, and
salad with cashews). eating places good to sit over a beer are the he and his family cleverly decided to perform without costumes and makeup. Thus the show
barbecue restaurants (p238) on 30th St, and went on for the tourists (and the ‘KBG’ people – Lu Zaw’s nickname for Myanmar’s military intel-
Western the Nylon Ice Cream Bar (left) downtown. ligence). They explained they were merely ‘demonstrating’ a performance since they couldn’t do
BBB (Map p228; %25623; No 292 76th St, 26/27; dishes Hotel-wise, the Gem Club and Kipling’s a ‘real’ one without costumes. It worked. Since that defiant evening they have been generally
around K3000; h8.30am-11pm) A two-floor bam- Lounge at the Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel left alone, doing nightly shows at their home for anyone who wants to see them. (And some of
boo lodge done up to provide serious West- (p238) are nice, if a little stuffy, though the the costumes have come out too.)
ern comfort (ie big-time air-con and ESPN latter has live music nightly; you can order Historically, Par Par Lay was the famous one. As the only English speaker, tireless bundle
on the telly), the BBB (Barman Beer Bar) of- drinks by the pool too. of energy Lu Zaw has become the clear spokesperson for the group now that the shows are
fers a good respite from dust (and rice) with Small shops around Mandalay sell cold limited to English.
pastas, burgers, superb BBQ chicken and beer for about K1000 to K1200 per bottle of
steak with mushrooms. Soups come with Myanmar Beer, the local Mandalay Beer (a
piping-hot bread. bit watery) or Tiger Beer, which you can take performances, and its original schtick in Bur- play on the floor – a couple sit in drum cir-
to your hotel (best if it has a roof terrace). mese has shifted to English. The leader, Lu cles, while another plays the distinctive hneh
Teashops Maw, kneels over an antique microphone (oboelike instrument) – before a small stage.
Mandalay teems with teashops, which are ENTERTAINMENT stand and jokes through a minispeaker, as These musicians introduce traditional danc-
great for picking up snacks; these are two The neighbourhood surrounding the house the night meanders through slapstick, po- ers and puppeteers, who recreate tales of
of our favourites. of the Moustache Brothers – Mandalay’s litical satire, Myanmar history, traditional zat pwe (Buddhist Jataka tales) and Yamazat
Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe (Map p230; 25th St, 80/81; tea ‘West End’, as their troupe leader Lu Maw dance and music, and how to tie up your (tales from the Indian epic Ramayana) tradi-
K80; h5.30am-5.30pm) Downtown’s busiest tea- jokes – is home to many pwe troupes (not longyi. Lu Maw’s English is pretty good – tions. Many handmade marionettes line the
shop, Shwe Pyi Moe makes top-quality teas, banned by the government), which prac- he’s particularly fond of expressions like walls; all are for sale (puppets start at US$6).
boils up fresh ei-kya-kwe (long, deep-fried tise their craft during June and July from ‘cat out of the bag’ and ‘hold the fort’ – At various points the curtain is raised to
pastries, known as you tio in Chinese; K70) 10am to 4pm daily. Visitors are welcome though if you speak English as a second lan- show the artists – some are pretty wily char-
in the giant wok up the front, and fries pan- to wander and watch, free (donations are guage you may struggle a bit. He retells the acters – performing their art. Traditionally,
cakes with banana (K180). appreciated). You’ll see traditional pwe (see story of their woes (even showing a clip from such shows were used for education and to
Minn Thi Ha Teashop (no English sign; Map p228; p236) in side streets and payas. the Hugh Grant film About a Boy, which convey news. This troupe (though based on
38th St, 83/84; h5am-6pm) Between downtown Moustache Brothers Troupe (Map p228; 39th St, mentions his brother Par Par Lay). It’s a good tourism) is the most serious, among several
and Mahamuni Paya or the jade market, this 80/81; donation K2500; h8.30pm) Performed in idea to bone up on some Myanmar factoids around the country, about preserving the
quiet teashop is another one worth steering the home of the banned Moustache Broth- (eg Ne Win, 1988, Aung San) before attend- folk art.
to. The young snack-serving staff isn’t 100% ers, this famous, colourful troupe has cele- ing. T-shirts are K5000. You can drop by any
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used to seeing foreign faces, so get ready for brated traditional Myanmar folk opera for time to chat. See also the boxed text, above. SHOPPING
curiosity. over three decades. The show is quite in your Mandalay Marionettes & Culture Show (Map Arts & Crafts
face, and pretty cornball, as it’s relayed from p228; %34446; www.mandalaymarionettes.com; 66th Mandalay is a major crafts centre, and
Cafés atop a miniwood-crate stage, with a dozen St, 26/27; admission K3500;h8.30pm) Opened in probably the best place in the country for
Nylon Ice Cream Bar (Map p230; No 173 83rd St, 25/26; or so plastic chairs 1m away. The one-time 1986, this small theatre holds popular hour- traditional puppets (antique or new) and
h8.30am-9.30pm) The de-facto meeting place famous troupe is now banished from public long shows daily. Five traditional musicians hand-woven kalaga designed in the style of
242 MA N D A L AY • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 243
Myanmar’s royal days. If you enter without Markets receives daily flights around the country via but often it’s OK to buy them one day be-
a tout or a driver, you can get (slightly) bet- Zeigyo (central market; Map p230; 84th St, 26/28) This Air Mandalay (AM), Yangon Airways (YA), forehand. IWT generally accepts US dollars
ter deals, as touts usually get commissions. downtown market offers wall-to-wall stands Bagan Air (BA) and the government’s risky only.
Handicrafts are available at a few vendor selling just about everything Myanmar in Myanma Airways (MA). Travel agents and There are two ferry services between
stalls in the zeigyo or at the Mahamuni Paya two large modern buildings and in stalls airline offices offered the following one- Mandalay and Bagan. The express boat
(Map p228) entrance. Keep in mind that spilling out onto the footpaths. way rates on nongovernment airlines at has fewer stops. Everyone gets seats on the
some of the items sold at these shops – older Produce market (p238; 86th St 26/28) Just to the research time. Most destinations are con- deck below, or you can pay K2000 for a
kalaga, parabaik (Buddhist palm-leaf manu- west, over a small creek, this is an up-to- nected daily. Flights to Thandwe usually deck chair to lounge up top. There’s also a
scripts), kammawa (lacquered scriptures), your-neck, open-air produce market where make a stop in Yangon. reasonable dining area and plenty of deck
gems, jade and any authentic antiques – ox carts, trishaws and trucks bringing and space to move about. The slow boat has no
aren’t legally supposed to be taken out of taking goods can fill up the little lanes. Destination Price (US$) reserved seats, but it’s usually not too mad
the country. Night market (Map p230; cnr 28th & 84th Sts) Of- finding a spot.
Mann Shwe Gon (Map p228; No 14 27th St, 72/73; fering all kinds of food, music and clothing, Heho US$42-50 At research time, the following were the
h7am-10pm) This tapestry and handicrafts this market keeps the area lit up and active Kengtung US$87 prices and times for some trips out of Man-
shop – founded in 1990 and run by a friendly after dark. Nyaung U US$42-46 dalay. (When applicable, multiple prices are
family – was being relocated, without choice, Tachileik US$125 for lower deck/upper deck/cabin.)
at press time, though the new location wasn’t Other Thandwe US$107
yet known. Ask around to find it for (some Blazon (Map p230; 80th St, 28/29; h9am-8.30pm) This Yangon US$96-102 Destination Price (US$) Duration Frequency
pricey) intricately hand-woven handicrafts new four-floor mall sells imported goods (at
including kalaga pillowcases (from US$5) a price), if you need a US$50 pair of Adidas, MA has exclusive services to several des- Bagan US$10 15hr 5.30am (Sun &
and wall hangings done in the fashion of US$6 Haagen Daz ice cream, US$20 designer tinations, including Kalaymyo (US$55) on (slow boat) Wed)
royal longyi (US$65 and up). Everything’s shirts, or food or wine from abroad. Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday; and Khamti Bagan US$16 9hr 6am(Mon, Tue
made at the workshop on site. Fujifilm (Map p230; 29th St, 80/81; developing fee (US$80) on Monday and Friday. There are (express boat) & Thu-Sat)
Sunflower Arts & Crafts (Map p228; 27th St, 74/75) K200, per photo K50) Develop film downtown in also a couple of flights to Monywa (US$35). Bhamo US$9/24/54 2-3 days 5.30am (Tue,
Part of the Marie-Min Vegetarian Restau- here. Flights to Lashio (US$40) only operate when Fri & Sun)
rant, the Sunflower fills two excellent show- government officials make the flight and Katha US$7/21/47 1-2 days 6am (Mon, Thu
rooms on either side of the alley with new Stones & Sculpture open seats get sold! & Sat)
and old bronze and wood doodahs (small The jade market (Map p228; admission US$1; h7am- Airline offices downtown (have your pass- Myitkyina US$9/27/56 3-4 days 6am (Mon, Thu
wooden elephants with bending tusks 5pm) is the lively market amid the ‘monk port and US dollars handy): & Sat)
are about US$7). There are also antique district’ in the back lanes southwest of the Air Mandalay (Map p230; %31548; 82nd St, 26/27; Pyay US$10 2-3 days Tue & Sat
(and quite anatomically correct) puppets. centre. It features dozens of open-air stalls h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Head office for AM. (slow boat)
Quoted prices start at around US$15, but and low tables where locals squat and get Myanma Airways (Map p230; %35221; 81st St, 25/26;
new puppets are cheaper (US$3 to US$5). serious about rough and polished pieces of h9am-2pm) Eerily, a poster (‘You’re safe with us’) hangs For more on the fun, long-haul boat trips
Mandalay Marionettes (p241) sells new jade and other gems. While most of the jade behind the front desk. on the Ayeyarwady from Myitkyina, see
puppets during the day or at nightly shows. seen here is genuine (and unlicensed), not Yangon Airways (Map p230; %31799; 81st St, 25/26; p219.
If you have a dilapidated stupa in need all is of high quality. In the past, some ven- h9am-5pm)
of refurbishing, head for the western exit dors sold jade ‘boulders’ smuggled in from Bus
of the Mahamuni Paya – here you’ll find Kachin State; these may be fakes with thin Several travel agents book air tickets (only), Mandalay has moved around its bus stands
workshops manufacturing all sorts of tem- sheets of jade peering through the brown often at a slightly discounted rate (about and stations a lot in recent years – and
ple paraphernalia (Map p228). If the hti outer ‘skin’, with the inside filled with ce- US$5 per ticket). One downtown choice is things could change again. Presently, most
(pinnacle of a stupa) has toppled, then this ment or worthless stone. Only foreigners pay New Seven Star Tours (Map p230; %60990; No 269 buses leaving or arriving in Mandalay en
is the place to come for a new one. to go in, but often no-one collects the fee. 83rd St, 27/28; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun). route to destinations to the south and
Mandalay’s gold-leaf makers (Map p228) Just across from the west entrance of the southeast operate from the Highway bus
are concentrated in the southeast of the Mahamuni Paya is a whole series of stone- Boat station, 7km south of the centre. This giant
city, near the intersection of 36th and 78th carvers’ workshops (Map p228), around the Government-owned Inland Water Transport dusty lot is lined with a mind-numbing
Sts. Sheets of gold are beaten into gossamer- corner of 45th and 84th Sts. You can see office (IWT; Map p228; %36035; 35th St; h9am-4pm array of bus companies, often selling tick-
thin pieces, which are then cut into squares workers blast slabs of rock, chip them into Mon-Fri), at the western end of Yangyiaung ets to the same places leaving at the same
and sold in packets to devotees for gilding shapes (Buddhas, small elephants etc) and Rd (35th St), sells tickets for destinations time.
images or even complete stupas. The typical polish them. A tiny elephant costs about up and down the Ayeyarwady including Schedules, just like bus terminals or
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gold-leaf square measures just 0.000127cm, K1000, a medium-sized Buddha K10,000. Bagan, Pyay (Prome) and Bhamo. Often the mood of an ox, are prone to constant
thinner than the ink on this page. Gilding hotels can get the tickets (and save you a change, so take the following sample of
a Buddha image or a stupa with gold leaf GETTING THERE & AWAY trip); alternatively, you can get them (at fares and schedules from the Highway bus
brings great merit to the gilder, so there’s a Air 10% commission) from the MTT offices terminal as a loose guide only. Local buses
steady growth of gold leaf on many images Mandalay’s huge, gleaming airport – a stag- (see p229). It’s sometimes said that you have no air-conditioning and some are 32-
in Myanmar. gering 45km south of the centre – sends and need to buy tickets a few days in advance, seaters.
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Destination Price Duration Frequency Type Taxi & Pick-Up be bought at the Mandalay train station at Mahamuni Paya to Mandalay Hill; red-
Hotels in Mandalay can arrange share taxis to window Nos 7 and 8. and-yellow Mann Sit Thi bus
Bagan K4200 8hr 9am, 2pm local Pyin U Lwin, or you can get one downtown Other sample fares (ordinary/1st class/ Mahamuni Paya to zeigyo and Kuthodaw
& 9pm for K5000; check at the corner of 27th and sleeper) and schedules include the follow- Paya; blue bus No 1
Magwe K3000 12 hr 4pm & 5pm air-con 83rd Sts. To get to Hsipaw or Lashio, contact ing. Ask travel agents for details of services Mandalay Hill from the clock tower and
& local the Lashio taxi stand (%80765) at the Highway run by private companies. zeigyo; bus No 4
Meiktila K600 3 hr frequent local bus station. The trip is K8000 per person (to Mandalay Hill to south of the city and
Pyay K3000 20hr 1pm local either destination) and takes five hours to Destination Price (US$) Duration Departure airport; red bus No 12
Taunggyi Hsipaw, six to Lashio. Taxis run from 7am Yankin Hill, zeigyo and the boat jetty to
(to Inle) K4500 10-12 hr 6pm air-con till noon. Bagan US$4/9/- 7hr 10pm Mingun; white bus No 5
Yangon K4500 12-15 hr 5.30pm air-con Many travellers hire long-term taxis with (Nyaung U)
driver for a couple of days or more. One Hsipaw US$3/6/- 10hr 4.45am Motorcycle
At research time, a 5.30am bus left for north- quote to go from Mandalay to Monywa, tour Lashio US$5/10/- 14¼hr 4.45am As elsewhere in Myanmar, many locals are
eastern destinations such as Pyin U Lwin, around its sights, stay overnight and then Myitkyina US$10/27/40 24hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm reluctant to hire out motorcycles to for-
Kyaukme, Hsipaw and Lashio from a ‘new go to Pakokku to catch the Bagan ferry was Naba US$-/12/18 12hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm eigners due to insurance worries in case of
bus station’ a couple of kilometres east of US$70. A share taxi to Inle Lake was about Pyin U Lwin US$2/4/- 3¼hr 4.45am accident. Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant
the Highway bus station. Apparently a few US$50 or US$60. For sample fares, ask at your Shwebo US$5/15/- 3hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm (p239) hires out motorcycles for K7500 per
drivers frowned on taking foreigners. This hotel or at New Horizon Travels (p229). day. Downtown guesthouses such as Nylon
is likely to change. A ticket cost K2300 re- For information on taking taxis or pick- GETTING AROUND Hotel (p237) can find one for about the
gardless of where you exited. ups to nearby towns, see Amarapura (p250), To/From the Airport & Stations same rate.
To reach Shwebo or Monywa to the west Inwa (p252) and Sagaing (p254). It’s usually more expensive getting to town
and northwest by bus, a small bus station from the airport than the other way around. Taxi
downtown (off 88th St between 21st and Train The trip takes about one hour. Taxis meet- Taxis and ‘blue taxis’ (teeny blue Mazda
22nd Sts) sends frequent local buses to both. The newish (largely bare) train station (Map ing flights charge K7000 to K9000. Upmar- pick-ups with room for four or so in the
It takes three hours to either town. At re- p228; 30th St, 78th/79th Sts) is a mostly unused, ket hotels can arrange transport for US$10. covered cab) whisk people around Mandalay
search time, some drivers were reluctant to modern, multistorey building with four Arranging your own ride to the airport most hours. They’re easy to find downtown.
allow foreigners on the bus to Monywa (but drive-up ramps, elevated taxi stands and es- costs K4000 or K5000. You can also con- Prices are negotiable. A ride from downtown
not to Shwebo); others claimed that foreign- calators leading to waiting areas with TVs. tact Shwe Airport Taxi (Map p230; %64084; No 109 to the Bagan jetty is about K2000. You can
ers could only take the 6am bus. Some travel- Meanwhile it’s generally the same ol’ poky, 29th St, 80/81). hire a blue taxi on a full-day trip to Amara-
lers had to pay up to K5000 to get on, others packed trains that ferry mostly locals on A taxi between downtown and the High- pura, Inwa and Sagaing for about K15,000;
about K1000. The no-problem Shwebo bus slow-going trips back home. way bus station is about K2500 or K3000. a regular taxi is about K8000 to K15,000
costs K700 or K1000. The situation is likely Just inside the main entrance downstairs You can get a pick-up to the station (Map more.
to improve, but you can consider starting at is an MTT office (%22541; h9.30am-6pm), which p230; K1000) from the corner of 27th and
Shwebo for a less tricky route. can sell tickets at 10% commission. You may 83rd Sts. Trishaw
be able to buy tickets (sans commission) at Note that trishaws are discouraged from The classic double back-to-back seat
BUYING TICKETS the upstairs counters, but usually they’ll send hanging out at the train station and aren’t al- trishaws still ply the back lanes of Man-
If you don’t want to get help from your you to MTT, you foreigner you. lowed on the entry ramps on the west side. dalay. It’s about K200 to K500 for shorter
hotel or guesthouse, several small stands on At research time, seven trains a day left for rides and K1000 or more for longer ones,
31st and 32nd Sts, between 81st and 83rd Yangon (via Thazi, Pyinmana, Taungoo and Bicycle say from Mandalay Hill to the zeigyo.
Sts, sell tickets. Stands selling K4500 tickets Bago). The quickest were the No 6 Down Several bicycle-rental shops stand on foot- Probably no-one in Mandalay knows the
for 5pm buses to Yangon and offering a (3.15pm), the No 15 Up (5.15pm), and the paths downtown, including Mr Htoo Bicycles town and traveller’s info – eg what streets
transfer to the bus station at 3.30pm: No 17 Up (6.30pm), which took about 12 (Map p230; 83rd St, 25/26; hire per day K1000; h8am- are hosting a pwe, where share taxis to
Leo Express (Map p230; %39323; No 367 83rd St, at hours. Others took 14 to 16 hours. Note that 7pm). Most hotels and guesthouses can get Hsipaw leave from, who sells the cheapest
33rd St) the private company Dagon-Mann runs the you a bike for comparable prices. veggie curry – like trishaw drivers. Those
Mann Shwe Pyi (Map p230; %88267; cnr 32nd & No 17 Up service; bookings can be made lingering by guesthouses usually know
83rd Sts) through travel agents. Ordinary train tickets Bus some English and are pretty good guys. A
Toe Express (Map p230; %64926; 32nd St) cost US$11 to US$15, 1st class are US$30 to Mandalay’s buses are virtually always good day, one said, is getting a couple of
US$35, and sleepers are US$45 or US$50. crowded, particularly during the 7am to ‘good jobs’ (K1000 to K2000 each) and 90
Another ticket stand on 32nd between 81st Trains operated by the private Mehka 9am and 4pm to 5pm rush hours. It can be minutes off at lunch to see his children; ‘it’s
M A N D A L AY
M A N D A L AY
and 82nd Sts sells tickets for Pyay (K3000), Mandalar company depart Mandalay for fun. Few locals know routes by number, but enough to rent the trishaw and feed my wife
which leave at 1pm. Nearby, another bus Myitkyina at 4.40pm on Wednesday and here are some of the useful services: and three kids’.
stand sells tickets for local buses to Pyin U Sunday. Upper-class seats are US$25. The Gawwein jetty, train station and airport; It’s probably worth spreading your kyat
Lwin (K2300) and Hsipaw (K2300), which Malikha Mandalar company runs trains on blue bus No 2 by taking one from a nontouristy area too.
leave at 5.30am. Note that these buses don’t Monday and Friday, and the fare and depar-
leave from here. ture times are the same. These tickets can
M A N D A L AY
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 246 www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D MA N D A L AY • • H i s t o r y 247
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY
0 20 km
AROUND MANDALAY 0 12 miles
Around Mandalay Twin

Kyaukmyaung
Shwebo
Halingyi
Singu
31
To Mogok
(50km)
SHAN
STATE
Duang Hanlin
Pai River
Thamantha
Budalin To Hsipaw;
Wetlet Lashio
Mandalay’s good, but it gets better just outside its doors. In centuries past, four capitals
Ayeyarwady River
Sedaw
set up shop at (or near) various points along the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, and they
Mu
To Kalaymyo
comprise some of the more compelling images of Myanmar. In Amarapura, for-hire rowboats (190km) Mayabin Mattaya Kyabin
Ri
ve
drift by a 1.2km-long teak-pole bridge used by hundreds of monks and fishers carrying their
r
Kyaukka Sadaung MANDALAY
SAGAING DIVISION 3
day’s catch home. At the canal-made island capital of Inwa (Ava), a flatbed ferry and then an Monywa
DIVISION
31
ox-cart lead visitors to a handful of ancient sites surrounded by village life. In Mingun – a Mingun
Taungbyone
boat ride up the Ayeyarwady from Mandalay – steps lead up a battered stupa more mas- To Zeedaw; Chaung-U Anisakan
Pyin U
Lwin
Mandalay
Maungdon
sive than any other…and yet it’s only a third finished. At one of Myanmar’s most religious
Myinmu
destinations, Sagaing’s temple-studded hills offer room to explore, space to meditate and yarw
ady River Sagaing
Amarapura
Aye
Chin
Tonbo
views of the Ayeyarwady that extend kilometres.
er
Inwa Paleik
Riv
dwi
Lema nge
n
Myit
n
Further out of town, northwest of Mandalay in Sagaing District, are a couple of towns –
1
River
real ones, the kind where wide-eyed locals sometimes slip into approving laughter at your Myotha 18
Yesagyo Chaunggwa
mere presence – that usually require overnight stays. Monywa is near a carnivalesque pa- Kyaukse
MAGWE
Yandabo
goda and hundreds of cave temples carved from a Buddha-shaped mountain; just east, DIVISION
SHAN
Shwebo is the stupa-filled town where Myanmar’s last dynasty kicked off. Further north, Myingyan
To Bagan To Yangon
STATE
To Thazi
near the Indian border, Kalaymyo is the only place in Myanmar where you can chat with
Chin people without an expensive permit from the government.
HISTORY where it remained for just four years. Inwa
From the fall of Bagan (Pagan) to the end only regained its pre-eminent position
of the third and last Anglo-Burmese War from 1764 to 1783, after which time Amara-
in 1885 (a war that was disastrous for the pura became the capital. In 1823 Inwa was
Burmese), the capitals of Myanmar played again the capital but, following the terrible
musical chairs in the area close to, or in,
HIGHLIGHTS Mandalay. At first, new kings sought to
build their legacy by breaking new ground THE LAST KINGS
In Amarapura, U Bein’s Bridge (p248) is the world’s longest teak bridge, creaking under the (and often the bricks and wood from old Myanmar’s last dynasty (the Konbaung
footfalls of commuting monks and fishers palace buildings) to build a new capital. dynasty) based itself in the area around
Inwa’s Bagaya Kyaung (p251) is an By the late-18th century, kings turned to Mandalay. It began with Alaungpaya (p38)
evocative 19th-century teak monastery astrological forces to pick a site worthy of a in 1752 and ended 133 years later, when
The view from Sagaing Hill (p253) king’s royal headquarters. Generally, when King Thibaw was deposed by the British
catches 500 temple tops peering over a new reign began, the royal entourage of and exiled to India. Here’s a cheat sheet to
the Ayeyarwady River the new king took much of the might of the the 10 kings:
old capital and left the area to farming vil- Alaungpaya 1752-60
Upriver from Mandalay, the Mingun
lagers, with neglected stupas picturesquely Naungdawgyi 1760-63
River
Paya (p255) is an unfinished, but still Hpo Win

Daung Caves dotting their fields. Hsinbyushin 1763-76
king-sized, stupa base you can climb Mingun
In the chaos after the fall of Bagan, it was Singu Min 1776-82
Ayeyarwady Mandalay
Across the Chindwin River from Mandalay, Sagaing that first rose to prominence (in the Bodawpaya 1782-1819
Chin
Sagaing Hill Amarapura

the Hpo Win Daung Caves (p259) feature early 14th century), but in 1364 Inwa suc- Bagyidaw 1819-37
dw
Inwa
inn
500 temples dotting the innards of a ceeded it. Alaungpaya appointed himself a Tharawaddy Min 1837-46
River
mountain shaped like a reclining royal in 1752, and the capital was briefly Pagan Min 1846-53
Buddha stationed in his home town of Shwebo Mindon Min 1853-78
(then called Mokesebo). In 1760 the cap- Thibaw Min 1878-85
ital shifted back across the river to Sagaing,
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earthquake of 1838, which caused consider- are scattered (and sometimes not easy to leading across the shallow Taungthaman Lake Just west from the start of the bridge is
able damage to all these cities, the capital find). Allow time and energy for walking if (which is named for an ogre who suppos- the Maha Ganayon Kyaung, home to several
was moved back to Amarapura in 1841. you don’t have a driver. edly came looking for Buddha here). Still thousand young monks. If you visit at
Amarapura was capital again for only a short Amarapura means ‘City of Immortality’, strong after 200 years, the world’s longest about 11am, you can watch the whole
period, and in 1860 the seat of power was though its period as capital was brief – just teak span sees a lot of life: fishers casting a monastery eating silently. (Do try to re-
transferred to Mandalay, where it remained over 50 years. It was founded by Bodawpaya line into the water, locals walking their bi- frain from thrusting cameras into monks’
until the end of the British conquest of My- as his new capital in 1783. In 1857 Mindon cycles home to Taungthaman village across faces, as too many visitors do this.) It was
anmar 25 years later. This dizzying move of Min decided to make Mandalay the capital, the lake and monks in saffron robes car- founded in around 1914 and is renowned
capitals around Mandalay gives the area its and the changeover was completed in 1860. rying alms bowls between the monasteries as a centre for monastic study and strict
second nickname: Deserted Cities. Today little remains of the old Amarapura on both sides. religious discipline. There’s also a new
palace area. The city walls were torn down The best times to visit the bridge are just and garish-looking temple with a gigantic
CLIMATE to make quarry material, while most of the after sunrise or just before sunset, when hun- seated Buddha.
As in Mandalay, it’s hot here, and April and wooden palace buildings were dismantled dreds of villagers commute back and forth
May bake. Dust cakes the trees (and the back and taken to adorn the palace in Mandalay. across it. A popular sunset activity is hiring Kyauktawgyi Paya
of your throat) any time it’s not raining. All visitors are supposed to have the boats (about K1500) to get close-up looks ekY;k'et;'äkI".ur;"
US$10 combo ticket bought in Mandalay to of the 1060-post bridge from the water. In If you cross U Bein’s Bridge (and you
GETTING THERE & AROUND visit Amarapura, but it’s not always asked the dry season, however, the lake dwindles should, considering the views to be had of
All of these destinations are best reached via for. There is no licensed accommodation greatly in size; in June or July the water levels Pahtodawgyi and the lake), you’ll come to
Mandalay. Three of the ancient cities (Ama- in Amarapura. sometimes rise above the walkway. Taungthaman village and Kyauktawgyi Paya
rapura, Inwa and Sagaing) outside Manda- The bridge’s name is usually attributed to (about 200m from the bridge). Constructed
lay’s door are reached by pick-ups, but most Sights the ‘mayor’ of Amarapura when the capital in 1847 by Pagan Min, this paya is said to
visitors go on day trips by taxi. Monywa U BEIN’S BRIDGE moved here from Inwa in 1841, but some have been modelled on the larger Ananda
and Shwebo are a few hours west and north wI"pin't®t;" say it was named for a Muslim servant of Pahto at Bagan (p300), but its five-tiered
of Mandalay by bus; Monywa also has air Amarapura biggest draw – and easily one the king who built the bridge. Most of the roof gives it more the look of a Tibetan or
and slow-train connections with Mandalay of Myanmar’s most photographed sites – is posts are original, though some have been Nepali temple.
and a useful bus connection with Pakokku this remarkable 1.2km-long teak footbridge replaced by concrete blocks. The bridge is While the paya doesn’t have the perfectly
(p281) en route to Bagan. The road north curved to better withstand the wind. vaulted roofs or the finer decorations of the
0 500 m
from Monywa to Kalaymyo is closed to for- AMARAPURA 0 0.3 miles There are five shaded rest areas on the original, it does have an excellent seated
eigners; an air service connects Kalaymyo bridge, including (at times) a couple of Buddha image and well-preserved frescoes.
with Monywa and Mandalay. places to sample fresh palm toddy. During Check the entry ceiling murals to see some
To Mandalay (11km) the dry season, a cement stairway halfway suspiciously English-looking figures in
across leads down to a small island with a bamboo hats, looking a little bossy despite
ANCIENT CITIES single teashop (there’s no sign). the smiles.
The paya pwe (pagoda festival), known as
Popular day trips south and southwest of AROUND THE BRIDGE the Festival of Lights, takes place here during
Mandalay take in these ancient cities: Ama- Palace Ruins Near the start of the bridge are a few food Thadingyut (October).
rapura (below), Inwa (p251) and Sagaing stalls where you can take noodles, tea or The atmosphere around Kyauktawgyi is
(p252), as well as the Snake Pagoda at Paleik beer and enjoy the view. very peaceful and shady, and this is a good
(p252); upriver to the north is Mingun (p254). Bagaya
Kyaung
Technically, you will need to purchase the
so-called ‘Mandalay Archaeological Zone’ Pahtodawgyi PLANNING DAY TRIPS
combo ticket (p229) for US$10 to visit Am- You can’t visit all the ancient cities in one day. Mingun is a half-day trip by boat. With a taxi
arapura, Inwa or Paleik. A separate US$3 Taungthaman
driver, it’s possible to visit Amarapura, Inwa and Sagaing in one busy day (and many visitors do),
ticket allows entry to Sagaing and Mingun. Lake but it’s best to save Sagaing for another day. At research time, a taxi from Mandalay for the three
sites cost about US$23 to US$30 (about US$15 for a half-day), and a ‘blue taxi’ (a dinky Mazda
AMARAPURA pick-up) costs about US$10 or US$15.
amrpšr Local packed pick-ups leaving from the corner of 29th and 84th Sts in Mandalay stop by
To Shwe-kyet-kya;
Myanmar’s penultimate royal capital, the Shwe-kyet-yet Amarapura (30 minutes) and the Inwa junction (40 minutes), before reaching Sagaing (45
now modern town of Amarapura (admission No 8
Bus Stop
minutes). It’s K100 during the day, K200 after dark. Considering how far apart many sights
Village
US$10 combo ticket), 11km south of Mandalay, is Kyauktawgyi
are, even many shoestringers spring for a full-day taxi, which is the only way to link them
Paya
more well known by the many day-trippers To Inwa (7km);
up with Paleik.
Teashops
for its 1849 pedestrian bridge built of over Sagaing (8km)
Food Stalls Art Gallery
Note that the popular dining time for monks at the Maha Ganayon Kyaung (above) in Ama-
Maha
1000 teak posts. The setting on the wide Ganayon rapura and the snake-feeding time at Paleik (see p252) is 11am daily.
Kyaung
Taungthaman Lake is gorgeous too, and U Bein's
Bridge
Other transport details are listed at the end of each section.
there’s much more to see, though most sites
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alternative place to hang around at sunset. based on ground plans and drawings found but it’s a long, confusing walk to the bridge been in decline since the fall of Bagan. Al-
There are several smaller overgrown stu- at the Kyauktawgyi Paya. from there. See p249 for day-trip info. though Inwa’s reach soon extended as far as
pas to be seen in the vicinity, including a Ask the caretaker to open the museum; Touring by bicycle from Mandalay is an- Pyay, the Mon rulers of Bago proved to be
unique honeycomb-shaped stupa covered it’s usually locked. other alternative. Pedalling to Amarapura a strong match for the Bamar.
with Buddha niches. Lay people often come Bagaya Kyaung is located just off the should take 45 minutes or so. In 1555 Inwa fell to Taungoo, then to the
here to practise meditation. Mandalay road, about 1km northeast of Mon in 1752. A few years later Alaungpaya
There are a couple of traditional outdoor Pahtodawgyi. INWA (AVA) vanquished the Mon forever, and after a
teashops, serving tea and snacks. a='"v period with Shwebo in the north as capital,
You can catch a boat back across the lake PALACE RUINS Cut off from roads by rivers and canals, the Inwa once again became the centre of the
for about K1500. nn'"et;'r;-amrpUr ancient city of Inwa (admission US$10 combo ticket) kingdom.
Little remains of the old Amarapura palace, just served as capital of the Burmese kingdom When the British occupied southern
SHWE-KYET-KYA & SHWE-KYET-YET east of the Bagaya Kyaung, but you can find for nearly 400 years, longer than any other Myanmar following the Second Anglo-
On the bank of the Ayeyarwady, west of the old treasury building and watchtower city. It tilts towards the touristy – it’s part Burmese War, much of northern Myanmar
Amarapura, stand two 12th-century paya (next to a modern water tower). King Bagyi- of the Mandalay US$10 ticket. The only was known as the Kingdom of Ava. The city
(Buddhist monuments) – the Shwe-kyet-kya daw and King Bodawpaya were both cre- way around the scattered sites is via horse was finally abandoned as a capital, in favour
and the Shwe-kyet-yet, or Golden Fowl’s Run, mated here, and their ashes were placed in cart with prepriced system in place, and of Amarapura, in 1841.
a string of stupa ruins cascading down from velvet bags and thrown into the Ayeyarwady. some postcard vendors linger at the sites –
a high bluff. If the river level isn’t too high, Stupas still stand at the four corners of the but it offers a more revealing glimpse into Sights
you can get a boatman to take you out in a once-square city. thatched-hut village life than the other an- BAGAYA KYAUNG
local hgnet (swallow-tailed boat) for a view cient cities. Beside the road, villagers till b;"kr;ekY;='"
of the two paya, the Sagaing hills and the Festivals & Events the soil where the royal palace once stood; One of Inwa’s finest attractions is the hap-
sun setting behind the Ava Bridge. In August, a week after the end of the others fish and bathe in inland ponds near pily unrenovated Bagaya Kyaung, which dates
Taungbyone nat pwe (spirit festival; p61) ruined stupas. from 1834. The entire monastery is built of
PAHTODAWGYI and the full moon of Wagaung, Myanmar’s Inwa – known as Ava to the outside teak and supported by 267 teak posts (the
puqiu"et;'äkI" nat (spirit being) worshippers move to the world until relatively recently – is reached largest measures 18m in height and 2.7m in
Built by King Bagyidaw in 1820, this well- Irinaku (Yadanagu) Festival, just south of by ferry, from near the Mandalay side of circumference). The cool and dark interior
preserved paya, near the lake, almost 2km Amarapura, and to the east of the road. The the Ava Bridge, a few kilometres southwest feels old and inviting. You may catch a class
north of the bridge, stood outside the old festival celebrates Popa Medaw, the mother of Amarapura. On its south side, the Myit- in progress inside.
city walls. The lower terraces have mar- of the Taungbyone brothers. At one point, tha Chaung (Myittha Canal) connects the On the outside, look for the Keinayi
ble slabs illustrating scenes from the Jataka the festival was one of the wilder ones in Myitnge and Ayeyarwady Rivers, making peacock – half bird and half woman. How
(stories of the Buddha’s past lives). There’s Myanmar and an important date in Myan- Inwa an ‘island’ – a good place to base a long this pristine wooden structure will es-
a fine view over the surrounding country- mar’s gay scene. kingdom. cape the heavy hand of renovation is not
side from the upper terrace. An inscription The Inwa Nat Pwe celebrates the nat Thon certain, but visit it while you can.
stone within the temple precinct details the Getting There & Away Ban Hla from the 10th day of the waxing A small sign in Burmese at the entrance
history of the monument’s construction. If arriving by pick-up, the best access point moon through to the full moon of Tabaung warns: ‘No footwear; if you are afraid of the
to U Bein’s Bridge is just after you see a (February/March). heat on the floor, stay in your own house.’
BAGAYA KYAUNG government-made sign for it on the left- Convenient horse carts make a clockwise
b;"kr;ekY;='" hand side of the road. Tell the driver where loop through the old gate and past a hand- NANMYIN
The history of the Bagaya Kyaung, now a you’re headed beforehand. You can also get ful of sites (listed in order below). You’ll a='"vemYú;'c='
government-built reconstruction dating on and off buses just north of Pahtodawgyi, need two to three hours to visit. There are The 27m-high masonry watchtower Nan-
from 1996 and a museum, dates back two a couple of food stalls outside the Maha myin is all that remains of the palace built
centuries. Based on a still-standing pred- Aungmye Bonzan, but no places to stay. by Bagyidaw. The upper portion was shat-
ecessor in Inwa, the first version of the LOCAL FESTIVAL LOWDOWN tered by the 1838 earthquake and the rest
Bagaya Kyaung dates from when King Bo- Mingun Nat Festival (February/March) Mingun History has taken on a precarious tilt – it’s known as
dawpaya built it after moving the capital to (see p256) . Inwa’s classical Pali name was Ratnapura the ‘leaning tower of Inwa’ – that is clearly
Amarapura, but it was destroyed by fire in Thon Ban Hla (February/March) Inwa (opposite). (City of Gems), Tadanabon in Burmese. noticeable when you’re climbing the steps.
1821. A second version, built in 1847, was Paleik festival (June/July) Paleik (see p252). Inwa (Mouth of the Lake) served as the Visible up the top, across the Ayeyarwady,
again burned down in 1866, leaving only Taungbyone Festival (August) North of Burmese capital from 1364 to 1841 (give or is the hemisphere-shaped Kaunghmudaw
eight brick stairways. These were gradually Mandalay (see p61) This includes the grandest of take an interlude or three), when the final Paya (p254).
overgrown until the Myatheindan sayadaw all nat pwe. shift was made to Amarapura.
(master teacher) built a two-storey brick Irinaku Festival (Yadanagu; August) South of Before 1364 Sagaing had been the capital MAHA AUNGMYE BONZAN
building in 1951, in which he deposited Amarapura (see above). of the central Bamar kingdom, but after Sa- mh;ea;='e¨m.®uc®
500 Buddha images and 5000 sets of pe-sa Paya pwe (pagoda festival, Festival of Lights; gaing fell to the Shan, the capital was moved Also known as the Ok Kyaung or the Me
(palm-leaf manuscripts) from throughout October) At Kyauktawgyi Paya (see p249) . to Inwa. The kings of Inwa set about re- Nu Ok Kyaung, this is a brick-and-stucco
Myanmar. The project to rebuild it was establishing Bamar supremacy, which had monastery built by Meh Nu, the chief queen
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of Bagyidaw, for her royal abbot U Bok Ava Bridge, where you can hire a trishaw Those also trying to cram in Amarapura superb. Monks from the outside monastery
(Nyaunggan sayadaw) in 1822. Monaster- (K200) or walk 1km to the ferry. (In the and Inwa in a day usually get only a whirlwind may turn on the electricity, but it’s best by
ies were generally built of wood and were rainy season the ferry leaves from near Ava look at Sagaing in 90 minutes. Considering the (provided) candlelight, where colourful
prone to deterioration from the elements Bridge at the Thabyedan Fort, just below the massive network of leafy paths connect- murals slowly reveal themselves in the dark
or destruction by fire. This monastery’s the bridge to the south.) ing hilltop stupa to riverside stupa, and with hallways.
masonry construction has ensured its long licensed accommodation here, there’s much Other sights around the hill include Pa-
life. The 1838 earthquake badly damaged it, Getting Around to explore for those willing to linger. If you’re damya Zedi (which dates from 1300); Umin
but it was restored in 1872 by one of King Essentially, the only way to get around the unable to ruin-hop in Bagan, Sagaing may Thounzeh (30 Caves), which has 45 Buddha
Mindon’s queens. ancient site is by horse cart (K2500 for one provide an interesting substitute. images in a crescent-shaped colonnade; and
Located nearby, the Htilaingshin Paya dates or two people) on a three-hour tour. A mo- Named for the trees hanging over the river, the 29.3m-high Soon U Ponya Shin Paya, built
back to the Bagan period; in a shed in the torcycle or bicycle can easily board the ferry Sagaing became capital of an independent in 1312 and home to large bronze frogs on
compound an inscription records the con- to Inwa. If you’re alone, you could hire a Shan kingdom around 1315, after the fall wheels that serve as collection boxes.
struction of the wooden palace during the motorcycle taxi (rather than blue taxi) in of Bagan had thrown central Myanmar into If you don’t want to go up the hill, you
first Inwa dynasty. Mandalay to take you to and around Inwa. chaos. Its period of importance was short, can still soak up Sagaing’s atmosphere by
for in 1364 the founder’s grandson, Thado roaming along the pathways that cover the
AVA BRIDGE PALEIK Minbya, hopscotched the capital to Inwa. hillsides and link up the hundreds of taza-
a='"vt®t;" plip' For four years, from 1760 to 1764, Sagaing ung (shrine buildings) down to Thayetpin
Visible from the tower and from the ferry, Most visitors on the Ancient Cities circuit was once again the capital, but its historic jetty.
the British-engineered, 16-span Ava Bridge miss Paleik’s Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung- importance is comparatively minor. About a quarter of the way from the
(aka Inwa Bridge or Sagaing Bridge), which pye Paya, better known as the Snake Pagoda Devotion is the name of the game these market to Sagaing Hill, you’ll pass the Hsin-
leads to Sagaing, dates to 1934. It was the (Hmwe Paya). It’s named after the three days. In addition to the many sites, there’s myashin Paya. It’s known as the Pagoda of
only structure that crossed the Ayeyar- giant pythons that sleep curled around the a major monastic hospital here. During Many Elephants for its elephant statues
wady River until 1998, when a new Chinese- Buddha images, which are tenderly washed the full moon of Tazaungmon (October/ stationed at each entranceway – a depar-
engineered bridge was completed at Pyay. and fed at 11am daily. The modest temple, November), devotees from Mandalay and ture from the usual chinthe (half-lion, half-
At research time, a new bridge (just north) dating alternatively to the early 11th century beyond flock to Sagaing to offer robes. dragon deities). The paya dates from 1429
was about a quarter finished, and may be or the 15th century, received little notice until Kyaswa Kyaung holds a ‘foreign yogis re- (the scissors at the eastern entrance are the
completed in 2005. 1974, when three pythons appeared from the treat’ in December or January (foreigners logo of a recent sponsor’s company).
In 1942 the British demolished two spans nearby forest. Now daily revellers (including are welcome), and visitors are sometimes A few kilometres north are a couple of
of the bridge to deny passage to the advanc- a scared baby or two) pose for photographs invited to stay in monasteries around Saga- silver shops, where you can see artisans bang
ing Japanese. Not until 1954 was it repaired with the snakes, which are led by attendants ing Hill by friendly monks. away at various pieces.
and put back into operation. It carries two to the main Buddha image. Sagaing is also famous for its acoustic
lanes of traffic, plus a railway line. Paleik is surrounded by an estimated 325 guitars. Ask a trishaw driver to take you to SOUTH OF AVA BRIDGE
Photography of – or from – the bridge is stupas and paya in varying states of repair, a ‘factory’ if you want one. Buddhist Sites
forbidden. many from the Konbaung period – it’s Heading along Strand Rd, following the
something like a mini-Bagan. Sights water south of the bridge, you can drop
OTHER SIGHTS A big festival takes place in the two weeks SAGAING HILL by a couple of interesting pagodas. About
At research time, waterlogged roads pro- following the full moon of Waso (June or cc'kiu='"et;=' 500m south is the Tupayon Paya, built in
hibited access to these sights, which aren’t July). If you have limited time in Sagaing, come 1444, which has an unusual style for My-
always on horse-cart drivers’ itineraries. Paleik is about 20km south of Mandalay to this hill (admission incl Mingun US$3). The ticket anmar. It consists of three circular storeys
The massive old city walls can easily be (about 45 minutes) on the highway to Meik- is valid for five days and includes admis- each encircled by arched niches. A tempo-
traced around Inwa. The best preserved are tila and Yangon. A lovely tree-lined back sion to the nearby town of Mingun. Trees rary wooden bridge was constructed across
near the northern gate, facing the Ayeyar- road leads 10km east to Inwa; it’s possible hang over stone steps that lead past stupas, the Ayeyarwady when the hti (umbrellalike
wady (northwest of the Maha Aungmye to arrive for the 11am event and reach Inwa monasteries and nunneries to a glorious top, pinnacle of a stupa) was raised, and a huge
Bonzan). This gate was also known as the by noon. where you can take in many of Sagaing’s 500 festival was held. The 1838 earthquake top-
Gaung Say Daga (Hair-Washing Gate), where stupas and views of the river back towards pled the superstructure, and it’s never been
kings went for a shampoo. SAGAING Mandalay. There are several ways up, not completely reconstructed.
On the southern side of the city stand the cc'kui='" all of which have government ticket stands Another few hundred metres to the south,
remains of the huge four-storey Le-htat-gyi Home to 500 stupas, even more monaster- en route; trishaw drivers (if not taxi drivers) Strand Rd passes the entrance to the sand-
Paya. There is also the Lawkatharaphu Paya, ies and nunneries, and some 6000 monks will know where to go. stone Aungmyelawka Paya, built in 1783 by
while to the south of the city stands the and nuns, lovely Sagaing is where Buddhists Tilawkaguru (donation K500), near the south- Bodawpaya on the site of his residence be-
Singyone Fort. in Myanmar go when they’re stressed. Set west base of the hill, is an impressive fore he became king. It was built in imita-
on the riverbank across the Ayeyarwady mural-filled cave temple that dates from tion of the Shwezigon Paya at Nyaung U,
Getting There & Away from Inwa, its peaceful pace – led by a lot 1672. Though much was damaged by fire Bagan (see p309). It’s a little frayed at the
If you’re not coming by taxi (see p249), of local meditation – is welcome to visitors 80 years ago (and frisky bats hang out in edges, but you can climb up the stupa rim
pick-ups will drop off passengers near the as well. some chambers), a walk-through can be to look around.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 254 A N C I E N T C I T I E S • • M i n g u n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A N C I E N T C I T I E S • • M i n g u n 255
Forts this simple hotel has clean rooms. Cheaper, MINGUN 0 50 m this pagoda, but no-one was doing so at
Overlooking the Ayeyarwady are three fan-cooled rooms have a shared bathroom; To Village
research time.
forts, built by an Italian engineer as a last- more expensive rooms have generator-run (150m)
ditch defence by the Myanmar people in electricity, air-con and private bathroom. MINGUN PAYA
the Third Anglo-Burmese War. About 1km Downstairs, you’ll find a good restaurant m='"kân'".ur;"
south of Aungmyelawka Paya is the most serving Chinese and Bamar food. Coming Hsinbyume Paya
Looming high and wide on the inland side
easily accessed, the riverside Asekhan Fort from Mandalay, turn right at the market, of the road, the Mingun Paya is actually just
(Fort Savage). Follow Strand Rd south (to then take the second right. Phaung Daw
the cracked brick base of the original plan.
Ayeyarwady
Thi Monastery
its end) and then continue on side roads At research time, the Sein Pann Myaing Inn Mingun Bell
The grandiose pagoda King Bodawpaya had
about 200m further south. (%072-21200; Thudumar St; r K3500), one block Mingun Sanitarium
in mind was set to reach 150m (three times
Once the site of a minor 1886 battle, the west and three blocks south of the market, (Buddhist Infirmary) the paya’s present size). Construction began
fort now is mostly home to grazing cows charged foreigners the local price for its May Kawan
in 1790 with a labour force of thousands
Alternate Landing
(‘they match the intelligence of our army clean, basic rooms. Molmi Paya
Monastery Place of slaves and prisoners of war. Bodawpaya
now’, one local joked). Just north, under a Greenland Restaurant, a block north of often supervised construction from a set-up
large tree, is a small walled cemetery with the Happy, has good noodles, draft beer residence on an island offshore. (You can
River
three tombstones of British soldiers. and a courtyard setting for half the price Plaque Chinthe bet the slaves loved that.) Work halted in
Ruins
From the riverside wall you can just of Happy. Display
1819 when Bodawpaya died.
Path when river
make out the other forts across the river. is low An earthquake split the monument in
Thabyedan Fort is amid the trees, just south Getting There & Around Mingun
Paya
1838 and reduced it to partial rubble – it’s
of the Ava Bridge. (You can easily see the Sagaing is about 20km southwest of Man- Settawya
Paya
possibly the world’s largest pile of bricks.
walls from the road to Mandalay.) dalay and is reached by a road that crosses But what a pile! Each side of the enormous
To the south (in Inwa, maybe 200m south the Ayeyarwady via the Ava Bridge (p252). base measures 72m, and the lowest terrace
of Lawgtharaphu Paya) are the barely visible Pick-ups stop on the main road just after Pondaw Paya
measures 140m. There are projecting four-
remains of a concrete wall (low, with much the bridge and near the market. See p249 layer lintels over the porticoes on each of the
vegetation), where Singyone Fort stood. for information about taxis to Sagaing. four sides. Beautiful glazed tiles in brown,
Boats to/from
Some locals lament that the forts weren’t It’s possible to catch local transport 10km Mandalay pale brown, cream and green were intended
To Sagaing
used to stand up to the British more. Advi- north to Mingun a few times a day. (18km) to be set in panels around the terrace; some
sors persuaded Thibaw that it was futile. Sagaing is spread out, so it’s best to get of these tiles can be seen in the small build-
around by trishaw or taxi. A trishaw costs ing in front of the enormous ruin.
KAUNGHMUDAW PAYA about K2500 for half a day. for a quick noodle meal. The path along the Despite its dilapidated state, you must
ek;='"múuet;'.ur;" road – if the water level is down – is often go barefoot if you intend to climb the base.
The best known of the Sagaing stupas, ac- MINGUN less dusty. From the flat top you have a fine view of
tually 10km west towards Monywa, is the m='"kân'" the Hsinbyume Paya, Mingun village and
Kaunghmudaw Paya. The enormous white About 11km upriver from Mandalay (and Sights the river.
dome rises 46m and was modelled after the visible from Mandalay Hill), Mingun (admis- PONDAW PAYA A pair of large chinthe (half-lion, half-
Mahaceti (Great Stupa) in Sri Lanka (al- sion incl Sagaing US$3) is as interesting to visit for p®uet;'.ur;" dragon guardian deities) have just about
though legend also says that it represents the its ancient sites as for the pleasant boat trip On the southern end of the site (just north crumbled away at their guard posts closer
breast of a Myanmar queen). Also known by to get there. Mingun’s half-dozen sites run of the usual boat drop-off point), this un- to the river.
its Pali name, Rajamanicula, the stupa was along the bank on the opposite side of the assuming structure, a 5m-high white pa-
built in 1636 to commemorate Inwa’s estab- Ayeyarwady from Mandalay. Most famous goda, is a working model for the gigantic, MINGUN BELL
lishment as the royal capital of Myanmar. is the partly completed Mingun Paya, which unfinished Mingun Paya, 100m north. It’s m='"kân'"ex:='"el;='"
Around the base of the structure are 812 would have been the world’s largest paya worth seeing to get a picture of what could In 1808 Bodawpaya had a gigantic bronze bell
stone pillars, each 1m to 1.5m high and (if King Bodawpaya hadn’t upped and died have been. cast to go with his gigantic stupa. Weighing
with a small hollow for an oil lamp. Images before it was finished). The village itself is a 55,555 viss (90 tonnes), the bell is claimed
of nat can be seen in the 120 niches that also friendly place – although some hawkers can SETTAWYA PAYA to be the largest hung, uncracked bell in the
circle the base. A nearly 3m-high polished be a little too friendly. ck'et;'r;.ur;" world. (A larger bell in Moscow is cracked.)
marble slab stands in a corner of the paya The ticket includes admission to Sagaing On the river immediately north of the The same earthquake that shook the zedi
grounds; its 86 lines record details of the and is valid for five days. Depending on Pondaw Paya is the Settawya Paya, a hollow, base also destroyed the bell’s supports, so it
monument’s construction. water levels, boats usually drop off passen- vaulted shrine containing a footprint of the was hung in a new tazaung (shrine build-
You’ll need to hire a taxi in Sagaing to gers at the southern end of the site. In the Buddha. King Bodawpaya brought the footing) close to the riverboat landing. The bell
get there. past, some travellers have arranged to stay at print to Mingun when the relic chamber is about 4m high and over 5m across at the
one of the monasteries here, but it’s frowned in the base of his huge pahto (temple) was lip. You can scramble right inside it, and
Sleeping & Eating upon nowadays. sealed up. Settawya Paya was built in 1811. some helpful bystander will give it a good
Happy Hotel (%072-21420; s US$8-15, d US$15-$25; Food stalls, art galleries and souvenir Some travellers have reported that an thump so that you can hear the ring from
a) A couple of blocks north of the highway, stands line the road. Most visitors have time ‘official’ charged extra admission to see the interior.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 256 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • M o n y w a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • M o n y w a 257
Between the Mingun Paya and the bell nearby (see p259) warrant more than an Sights
(100m north) stands Molmi Paya; this new GOVERNMENT TRIPS exhausting day trip from Mandalay. The old market, a couple of blocks south of
pavilion shelters a life-size standing bronze From Mandalay’s MTT office (see p229) you In WWII Monywa found itself between the clock tower, is an interesting area – and
statue of Molmi Sayadaw, a famous Buddhist can arrange (expensive) trips to Khamti the British and Japanese forces twice; it was as active as the new market built by the
abbot from the nearby village of Molmi. (‘Naga Land’) in January and Mogok (so- flattened by bombs in 1942 and 1945. The government in the 1990s.
called ‘Ruby Land’) year round. Trips start area – particularly west of the river – was The central Shwezigon Paya is worth a peek,
HSINBYUME PAYA at US$400 per person. It’s presently the for many post-war years a centre for the but Monywa’s primary religious site is the
z='¨fBmy'.ur;" only way to visit these destinations. Burmese Communist Party. Maha Ledi Kyaung, about 750m northeast of
Also known as Myatheindan, and built by Monywa sees a lot of trade to and from the Bogyoke roundabout (on the other side
King Bagyidaw in 1816, three years before India. Agricultural products and hard- of the train tracks). Built in 1886 by order
he succeeded Bodawpaya as king, this stupa your hotel. It’s almost always possible to woods (including teak) come in from across of renowned Pali scholar Ledi Sayadaw, this
was constructed in memory of his senior show up and get a ticket. If you miss the re- the Chindwin River via a new Chindwin monastery shares a concept with Mandalay’s
wife, the Hsinbyume princess. It is built as a turn boat, you’ll need to arrange your own Bridge that opened north of town in 2004. Kuthodaw Paya (p232); its 806 stone slabs
representation of the Sulamani Paya, which, ride back (for about K7000). Monywa is famous for churning out the are inscribed with Buddhist scriptures.
according to the Buddhist plan of the cos- Chartered express boats also go to Min- rough cotton blankets you see in cheaper Monywa’s Strand Rd is a two-level road
mos, stands atop Mt Meru (the mountain gun from here; a return ticket is K8000 to guesthouse rooms around the country. along the Chindwin River. It functions nicely
that stands at the centre of the universe). K12,000. These boats are usually geared to as a dusk promenade for strolling couples,
The seven white-washed wavy terraces tour groups. Orientation & Information monks and a couple of testosterone types.
around the stupa represent the seven moun- A loosely scheduled pick-up connects Sa- The Shwezigon Paya, north of the old mar- About 5km north of town, near the new
tain ranges around Mt Meru, while the five gaing with Mingun, usually arriving in the ket, occupies the centre of Monywa, with Chindwin Bridge, is the Shwe Daung U medita-
kinds of mythical monsters can be found in morning and returning ‘around 1pm’. the chief landmark being the clock tower tion centre.
niches on each terrace level. This structure on Bogyoke St to its southeast, and the Bog-
was also badly damaged in the 1838 quake, yoke roundabout to its northeast. Sleeping
but King Mindon had it restored in 1874.
Just north, past some of the souvenir has-
UPPER SAGAING Monywa e-Business Group Internet (Station Rd;
per hr K800; h9am-11pm) is on the first floor of
Win Unity Resort Hotel (in Yangon %01-227 389)
This promising new midrange hotel, about
sle, is the village. DISTRICT an official-looking building. 1km north of the clock tower, was under
MINGUN SANITARIUM North of Sagaing town (p252) near Manda- MONYWA 0

0
500 m
0.3 miles
Also called the Buddhist Infirmary, this nurs- lay, the Sagaing District sprawls northward
ing home for the elderly is worth checking to the Indian border. Few tourists visit here, A To Win Unity Resort B C D
Hotel (1km); Chindwin
Bridge (5km);
out. Visitors (and donations) are welcome. which is part of its appeal. Monywa is near Shwe Daung U
Meditation Centre (5km);
The friendly head nurse here is Thwe Thwe some top-shelf attractions; historically key Airport (10km);
2
Budalin (28km)
Aye, who speaks excellent English. You can Shwebo (p260) kicked off Myanmar’s last 1
wander into the two monasteries on either dynasty. Further north – and only reachable
Rd
-U
5 To Shive Gu
Ye
side of the building. by air – Kalaymyo (p262) is a quiet valley Ni Paya (20km);
a-
Sports
yw
Hospital Kyaukka;
town with a sizeable Chin community. Ground
on
Shwebo
Bogyoke St
M
Festivals & Events During the 17th century, when the Por-
The Mingun Nat Festival takes place between tuguese adventurer Philip De Brito was de-
8
the 5th and 10th days of the waxing moon feated at Thanlyin, all the Portuguese and INFORMATION
of Tabaung (February/March). This cele- Eurasians living at De Brito’s 13-year-old Monywa e-Business Group
Internet....................................1 B2
bration pays homage to the brother and colony were exiled to areas around Mo- 6 1
Rd)
Train
Station
sister of the Teak Tree, who drowned in the nywa and Shwebo (notably the villages of 2 tation Bogyoke SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Lan (S 9
Buta Statue Maha Ledi Kyaung.......................2 B1
river while clinging to a trunk. Monhla and Chantha near Monywa). Called Moonlight
Cinema 3
7
Shwezigon Paya...........................3 A2
bayingyis, rare fair-haired residents may oc- 4
SLEEPING
Getting There & Away casionally be seen, although no linguistic or 13
Clock Tower
Golden Arrow Hotel.....................4 B2
12 Monywa Hotel.............................5 B1
Government-run riverboats to Mingun de- cultural legacies remain. Shwe Taung Tarn Hotel...............6 A2
part at 9am from the western end of 26th Old
St in Mandalay, and leave Mingun at 1pm MONYWA Market EATING
to make the return journey. A return ticket mu®râ; Fantasy Food Centre....................7 B2
Shwe Kyar Restaurant..................8 B2
11 New Shwe Taung Tarn Restaurant.....(see 6)
is K1500. The upriver journey usually takes %071 Ka
na
Market Su Restaurant...............................9 B2
about an hour (and occasionally goes by the Set on the eastern bank of the Chindwin 3 r
La
n Zedi TRANSPORT
rare Irrawaddy dolphins), though some- River, about 136km west of Mandalay, Ch
(St
ran
d Rd Bus Station.................................10 B3
in abin
Bo
times it can take as long as two hours. Monywa is a scrappy trade town of some Ri dwi Rd ng T
Nyau To Great Hotel &
Jetty...........................................11 A3
gy
)
ve n
ok
r Pick-ups to Kyaukka...................12 B2
It’s possible to buy tickets in advance 300,000 people. There’s not much in its yard
e
Bus Station (1km); Pick-ups to Thanbodday.............13 B2
To Hpo Win
St
Thanboddhay Paya
from the small jetty office (%22294), or from for travellers, but a few superb attractions Daung Caves (25km) (20km); Mandalay (136km)
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 258 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • M o n y w a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • A r o u n d M o n y w a 259
construction at research time. Plans for a restaurant artfully prepares its tasty rice carriage to another track, three hours behind GETTING THERE & AWAY
pool and tennis court, and the riverside lo- dishes. There are three eating areas – inside, the scheduled noon departure. Thanboddhay Paya, near the eponymous
cation north of town, would likely make it in the leafy garden, and up on the modern village, is 20km southeast of Monywa, a few
Monywa’s splashiest sleep. wood-decked rooftop. Getting Around kilometres east of the highway to Mandalay.
Shwe Taung Tarn Hotel & Restaurant (%21478; Fantasy Food Centre (Bogyoke St, near clock tower; Trishaw and ‘blue taxis’ are the main form Share taxis to the sites cost K6000 to K7000.
70 Station Rd; r per person US$5-8; a) The higher- BBQ skewers K50-300; h8am-10pm) This big bar- of local transport (the police outlawed the Direct local buses to Thanboddhay village
priced doubles in this central hotel are sur- becue beer station has plenty of life, thanks four-seater motorcycle taxis in late 2004). A leave frequently from Bogyoke Rd south of
prisingly comfy, set behind a lush garden mostly to the Myanmar Beer on tap. The trishaw ride from the bus station to the cen- the clock tower in Monywa. From the vil-
and the old building (which houses the menu is mostly meat. tre is about K400 or K500; a ride between lage, you can hire a taxi or take a pick-up.
cheaper rooms). There are wooden floors, the centre and the jetty for boats across the
balconies and air con (if the power’s on – it Getting There & Away Chindwin River is K150. Hpo Win Daung Caves
usually is). The TVs had no channels at AIR White plain-clothes taxis linger on Sta- fiu"v='"et;='gU
last pass. The free breakfast is served in the The shiny new airport is a 30-minute ride tion Rd, near the northern Shwezigon Paya Across the Chindwin River and 25km west
restaurant next door (see below). English- north of town, with connections to Manda- entrance. You can generally find cheaper of Monywa, Hpo Win Daung is a long
speaking staff members hire out bicycles lay, Yangon and Kalaymyo. blue taxis near the clock tower. A blue taxi mountain shaped (locals claimed convinc-
and help arrange day trips. costs K3000 for the 30-minute ride north to ingly) like a reclining Buddha. It features
Monywa Hotel (%21581; Bogyoke St; s/d US$15/ BOAT the airport. 492 cave temples built inside the limestone
20; a) About 500m north of the clock Ferries head up the Chindwin River to Most hotels hire out bikes for about cliffs. The caves (admission US$2), built between
tower, off the highway north, the Monywa Kalaymyo in four days, but the route was K1500 per day. the 14th and 18th centuries, sprawl up and
is a leafy complex reminiscent of a barracks. restricted for foreigners at research time. down the west side (along the ‘Buddha
There are 50 bungalow-style motel rooms, Sadly, there was no boat service downriver AROUND MONYWA head’) of the mountain, and are packed with
each with nice dark-wood floors and TVs to Pakokku. Thanboddhay Paya & Around 2588 Buddhas and some boldly coloured
juiced by satellite, but the details are a little smºŸedÖ.ur;" murals.
cheap (eg bubbly vinyl floors in the bath- BUS The magnificent, carnivalesque Thanboddhay To the southwest of the long-inhabited
room). Rates include breakfast. Monywa’s bus station, off the highway to- Paya (admission US$3; h6am-5pm) bursts with hills lies the Pondaung-pon-nya moun-
Golden Arrow Hotel (%21548; Bogyoke St, across wards Mandalay 1.5km south of the clock pink, orange, yellow and blue spikes, and has tain range, where the fossilised remains of
from the clock tower; s/d US$5/10; a) This is the tower, has no English signs. so many Buddha images in the inside nooks Pondaung Man (a primate ancestor who may
best deal for a fiver in town. Clean (to At research time, a nice express air-con and crannies in halls and archways – one have lived 30 million years ago) were found.
the point of being clinical) rooms above a bus left for Yangon (K6000, 13 hours) at tally makes it 582,357 – that it feels like a The hills are named after U Hpo Win, a fa-
bank reopened as a hotel in 2004. Rooms 6am. Hourly buses connected Monywa with Buddha House of Mirrors to walk through. mous zawgyi (alchemist) hermit who once
have satellite TV, and windows are painted Mandalay from 5am (K700, four hours) Some compare the building to Borobudur in lived among them.
translucent white. Rates include breakfast. and Shwebo (K700, four hours) from 6am. Indonesia, though Thanboddhay is smaller. From the starting point, the main caves
Great Hotel (%22431; Bogyoke St; s US$10/15; a) Note that buses to (not from) Monywa from It’s certainly unique for Myanmar. lead up and left (west). A guide is not a
In an unflattering location next to the bus Mandalay were often reluctant to take for- Nearby is a display of moving waves sur- bad idea, as some caves aren’t easy to find;
station, rooms here are OK, not great. eigners at press time (see p244). rounding a praying Buddha, where worship- one English-speaking guide (at least) hangs
Four daily buses (presently leaving at pers toss offerings into a ‘floating’ basket, around the Monywa jetty and offers four-
Eating 6.30am, 9.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm) go to and a pastel tower with encircling steps (and to six-hour tours for K5000.
Shwe Kyar Restaurant (Thazi St; dishes K1000; h8am- Pakokku (K600, 4½ hours) to catch the often young kite-flyers up the top). The cave chambers vary in condition.
9.30pm) A block to the northeast of the Bog- ferry to Bagan (see p281). It’s worth heading 4km further east to see In some there are giant reclining Buddhas;
yoke roundabout is this clean and airy, See opposite, p260 and p260 for details of a serious Buddha-rama at the western edge others are packed with smaller Buddhas and
concrete-floored, wooden-boothed Chinese- local transport to sites around Monywa. of the Po Khaung Hills. Peering from a hill- have streams of light shining in from holes
Myanmar restaurant. The Shwe Kyar has an top is a 90m reclining Buddha you can climb in the walls. Many murals are painted ‘3D’ –
English menu with typical but tasty shrimp, CAR to. Behind it, a giant standing Buddha was what’s above the eye level is far, what’s
pork and chicken dishes (and nine veggie By taxi it’s only a three-hour drive to or under construction at research time – it will below is near. In one mural, you can see
options). There’s no English sign, but it’s from Mandalay on a decent two-lane road. break 167m when it’s completed (in 2006), ‘Portuguese-looking persons’ burning in
at the base of a modern burgundy-coloured The going rate in Mandalay is US$30 or making it the world’s second tallest. hell. Sadly, relic smugglers have feasted on
building. US$35, depending on petrol prices. Just west, the enormous white Aung Setkya some statues, but much remains intact and
Su Restaurant (Station Rd; dishes K1500; h9am- Paya, standing 130m high and surrounded thankfully unrestored.
9pm) Just east of the northern Shwezigon TRAIN by 1060 smaller stupas, has dark tunnels The weeklong Hpo Win Daung festival,
Paya entrance, this friendly Myanmar res- Monywa is on the Mandalay–Budalin branch inside that lead to the stupa rim for nice the year’s biggest here, takes place in No-
taurant has all-you-can-eat, pick-and-point railway, but service to Mandalay (six to seven views. There are more tasty views from the vember. The area has 12 monasteries, where
pots of curries (that come with 10 or so hours) bumps along at a far slower pace than tower amid 8000 (and counting) Buddhas it’s possible to overnight or arrange longer
condiments) that feed many local families. bus or car. At last pass, a ticket agent quoted in the sprawling Bodhi Tataung (1000 Bud- stays for meditation.
Shwe Taung Tarn Restaurant (%21478; 70 Sta- foreigners K240, then K3000, for the jour- dhas), begun in 1994; it’s a couple of hun- The facing hill to the south, Shwe Ba Taung,
tion Rd; dishes about K1000) This popular Chinese ney; and we saw passengers pushing a faulty dred metres west of the stupa. features 46 more caves.
Ὀ
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 260 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • S h w e b o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • S h w e b o 261
GETTING THERE & AWAY couple of snakes do their slither; a Monywan SHWEBO 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
INFORMATION
MCC Shwebo Computer..........................................................1 B2
It’s a bit of a heist coming here. From Mon- warned, ‘You’re going to Shwebo? Watch
Ὀ
Police Station............................................................................2 B1
ywa’s jetty, ‘special boats’ (aka local ferries out for cobras, brother.’ Nevertheless, many A B Post Office...............................................................................3 A1
Station
To Train To Maw Daw
minus the locals) whisk foreigners across Myanmar folk reach for the dirt when com- Station
(1km)
Myin Tha Paya
(1km)
Yan Gyi
Aung Park SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Moat
Alaungpaya Palace Grounds....................................................4 A2
Aung Zeya St
the Chindwin River to Nyaungbingyi vil- ing to Shwebo. It’s considered good luck to To Ye-U
Rd
9 13 Aung Mye Hsu Taung.............................................................5 A3
lage for a whopping K1500 each way; boats take home some earth from ‘Victory Land’ 1 Yan Gyi Aung St King Alaungpaya Memorial......................................................6 A2
Shwe Daza Paya......................................................................7 A2
run 6am from to 6pm. (as Shwebo’s reputation goes). 2 To Kyaukmyaung
(29km); Mogok
During festivals you can take a bus from Shwekyettho Shwe Thein
(150km) SLEEPING
Ὀ
Paya Daw Paya Myo Ma..................................................................................8 A2
the village to the caves. At other times you’ll Orientation & Information 3
10
Letw el T h onda
ra St
Zin Wai Lar Guest House..........................................................9 B1
need to hire a jeep (K5000 for up to five Shwebo’s main street, Aung Zeya St, runs 12 Dhamma
Thuka St EATING
people) at the yellow booth on the right in from north to south past the market and To Yawdaw
Mayawady St Eden Culinary Garden.............................................................10 B1
a St
Nyaungbingyi. The ride takes 45 minutes leads north. Village (7km) Alaung Pay
Zeigyo 11
Open-air Burmese Restaurants...............................................11 B2
Shwe Taung...........................................................................12 B1
1
each way. It’s possible to go by taxi from The post office, on a dirt road northwest 4 6 (Central
Market) Hospital
Monywa, via the new Chindwin Bridge. No of the market, sends postcards overseas, but 8
DRINKING
Beer Station............................................................................13 B1
English signs are posted. not faxes. There’s Internet access east of the 2 Shwe Kyet
Thabin Shwe Taung Paya
TRANSPORT
market at MCC Shwebo Computer (per hr K1500; Hte St Chanthaya
Paya Bus Station.............................................................................14 A3
Kyaukka h7am-9pm). 7 Chanthaya-gyi
ekY;k'k; Paya
Shwebo
About 45 minutes east of town by taxi (or Sights College morning, and some booths in the inside bar
double by bicycle) along a lovely tamarind Several pagodas in the blocks south of the at the back. Eden is notable for having good
Shwe Daza Paya St

tree–lined road, Kyaukka has been a centre market give Shwebo’s centre a gold-studded Chinese and Myanmar dishes, some Euro-
for pre–Chiang Mai style lacquerware since backdrop. The biggest, Shwe Daza Paya, is pean food (hamburgers, eggs and toast; note
the Konbaung era. Pieces are more basic and said to have been built by King Narapa- that the ‘orange juice’ is actually soft drink),
utilitarian than those you’ll find in Bagan. tisithu over 500 years ago. Maw Daw Myin Tha 3 and an English menu. Homeboy waiters sure
To Hanlin
Shweb
The prices aren’t necessarily cheaper, but Paya, about 1.5km north of the market, is o Taung
Creek
(27km) put up a fuss to serve the rare foreigner.
To Mandalay (114km);
the household factories are worth checking the city’s most important Buddhist site and Monywa (134km) Shwe Taung (Aung Zeya St; dishes K500-800) With
14
out; there are also some shops outside the a peaceful enough place. Take Aung Zeya St 5 its enviable corner spot, this popular Chinese
interesting 14th-century Shwe Gu Ni Paya (fa- north, past the train tracks, where an Eng- brick-floor eatery is as good a place as any
mous for its wish-fulfilling powers), about lish sign points to it, about 100m east. to down a cold beer, eat some noodles and
750m west of town. If you’re waiting for the bus, Aung Mye Hsu Zin Wai Lar Guest House (%21263; Yan Gyi Aung watch Shwebo pedal-squeak by. There’s no
Few tourists come out here, and wide- Taung (aka ‘Army Pagoda’) is about 100m St; r K5500-10,000) Shwebo’s best guesthouse menu, but staff will understand ‘no pork, no
eyed looks from locals often lean into out- south of the bus station. It’s said to be the (no doubt), just off the main drag Aung beef, no chicken’ if you want veggie fare.
right laughter. spot used by King Alaungpaya as a staging Zeya St, is signed only in Burmese but has On the north side of the market are sev-
All Shwebo-bound buses go by Kyaukka, point before going into battle, and it remains friendly English-speaking staff. A modern, eral appealing open-air Myanmar restau-
and pick-ups leave from near Monywa’s old the city’s wishing ground (for military too). three-storey affair, it has 14 ordinary dou- rants buzzing (with insects too) after dark.
market during the day. A 15-ministupa maze up the front has glass- bles with common bathroom and squat There’s also a small beer station facing the
spiked 1m-high walls to deter cheats. toilet, two double rooms with attached moat from Yan Gyi Aung Park.
SHWEBO As the capital, Shwebo was an enormous bathroom and sit-down toilet, and a lone
er¯.ui walled city. Remnants include bits of the triple with attached bathroom, fridge and Getting There & Away
%075 walls and the moat (the most visible legacy local TV. Breakfast is included. BOAT
Messier and dustier than Monywa, Shwebo of Alaungpaya’s original plan); the moat is Myo Ma (%21259; r K9000) A back-up to the Ferries heading up and down the Ayeyar-
sees even fewer tourists, but its sights and best seen from Yan Gyi Aung Park, northeast Zin Wai Lar, Myo Ma has small cell-like wady River between Mandalay and Katha
historical importance – King Alaungpaya of the centre. rooms with concrete floors, wall-to-wall stop at Kyaukmyaung, 29km to the east;
kicked off Myanmar’s third empire here, and The British built a jail on the Alaungpaya thin mattresses, and private bathroom with pick-ups run between Kyaukmyaung and
the area has been settled since at least the 4th Palace grounds (admission K50, camera fee K200), cold-water shower and squat toilets. A small Shwebo.
century AD – can make for a rewarding day which the government moved recently fan is strapped to the ceiling. The English-
or two for the adventurer. (See p38 for more and rebuilt as the palace; you can see a few speaking manager, however, is great, and BUS
about the great Alaungpaya.) structures, similar in form to the Mandalay can help find motorcycle transport to Hanlin The Shwebo bus station is about 1km south
Occupying the flat (and hot) plain be- Palace (but less complete). At the gate is (see p262). Myo Ma is south of the market. of the centre. A few bus companies travel
tween the Mu and Ayeyarwady Rivers, the King Alaungpaya Memorial, where his body the 114km route between Mandalay and
Shwebo has a Bamar majority, and size- was burned following his death in 1760. Eating & Drinking Shwebo. The busiest is Yan Gyi Aung’s 35-
able Muslim and Christian communities. Eden Culinary Garden (Aung Zeya St; dishes K450-900; seat bus (K700, three hours), which departs
The local economy depends on the trade Sleeping h6am-10pm) An inviting restaurant with hourly from 6am to 4pm from Mandalay’s
of nuts, pulses, rice and sesame cultivated If you’re looking for luxury, stay in Man- baked goods up the front, a leafy courtyard bus station off 88th St (between 22nd and
on surrounding farms, where more than a dalay instead. filled with tea-and-noodle diners in the 21st Sts).
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 262 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • A r o u n d S h w e b o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T • • K a l a y m y o 263
Hourly buses also connect Shwebo with to hire a jeep (if you find one); a motorcycle University, about 10km west of airport. who provides good local information and
Monywa – via a quiet 1½-lane road (K700, with driver is about K6500 for the trip, and There are jaw-dropping views. has a bike to hire out or lend.
3½ hours). Pick-ups make these trips from it’s helpful to have a local figure out where
the same starting and stopping points for a to go. It’s possible to bike (with soft seat!), Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Around
couple of hundred kyat less, but they take but it’s a hard full-day trip. The road to Taung Za Lat Hotel (%21463; Bogyoke Rd; r per Boat and bus journeys here from Monywa
an extra hour. Halingyi begins south of the aqueduct next person US$10-15) The lone hotel licensed for were off limits for foreigners at research
to the bus station. After about 10km you’ll foreigners is directly across the street from time. Myanma Airways has only a few
TRAIN see a big pagoda across the water. At the the airport. There are slightly grubby but weekly connections to Yangon (US$120
The Shwebo train station is 1km north of next village (the biggest you’ll see), turn left doable rooms and balconies, fans, screened or US$130 one way), Mandalay (US$50 or
the centre. Four daily trains travelling be- over the bridge; you’re halfway there. windows and squashed ’squitoes left on the US$55) and Monywa (US$35 or US$40).
tween Mandalay and Myitkyina stop here walls. The Chin staff speaks some English. The MA ticket office is halfway between the
going either way. The best to catch for My- KALAYMYO More expensive rooms are slightly bigger airport and the downtown market; arrange
itkyina are the No 55 and the No 57, which kel"Dmiu¾ but not really worth it. to buy a ticket (with passport and dollars in
leave around 5pm or 7.15pm and take 19 %073 You’ll find some eateries in Tahan and hand) at 9am the day before your flight.
hours. For Mandalay, the No 58 leaves Travellers with up-for-grabs expectations – around the downtown market. The best You can hail a truck between the mar-
around 7.45am and takes 4½ hours. Trains and an interest in meeting Chin folk with- is Thein Shwe Restaurant (%21313; Bogyoke Rd; ket and Tahan for K200 during the day and
on this route are often late, though. out taking a government-guided trip to dishes K600; h9am-9pm), about 100m west of up to K1000 after dark. Many locals offer
Chin State – can fly to Kalaymyo, a long the roundabout. It’s run by a welcoming a seat on the back of a bike or motorcycle
Getting Around way north of Mandalay and about 100km English-speaking Burmese-Chinese woman for free.
Trishaws (and a few horse carts) are the from India. There’s not much to do in
main modes of public transport. A trishaw town, but it’s interesting for the make-up
ride from either station to the centre is of its population (half Burmese, half Chin)
K200 to K400. There are no taxis, but jeeps and its slender setting, ringed by far-off
are sometimes for hire. Ask at the guest- lush mountains (the town is 15km long and
houses about bike hire for about K1000 per rarely more than two blocks wide). Most
day. Much of the centre is easily walkable. foreign faces who do make it here belong
to Christian missionary types, who donate
AROUND SHWEBO time and money to the Chin population
About 26 butt-kicking kilometres southeast (who are 95% Christian), who live in the
of Shwebo, the town of Halingyi is set just western half of town. The Chin folk some-
south of the architectural remains of Han- times refer to Kalaymyo as ‘Zomi’. There’s
lin (also called Halin), a massive 3.2km by some local debate on who lived here first,
1.6km walled city from the Pyu kingdom Bamar or Chin.
(which existed between the 4th and 9th cen- Moonstar Internet (cnr Bogyoke Rd & Yu Dan Than
turies). Little is left, but locals can point out St; per hr 1500k; hclosed Sat) offers quiet access,
overgrown gates to the wall. In another part 1.5km west of the airport.
of town is a monastery with a small museum,
which has some pots and other artefacts Sights
excavated from the ‘old city’. Foreigners are restricted to staying within
Halingyi village is interesting in that it’s town. The downtown (Burmese) market, in and
set atop a network of hot springs; the water around the roundabout about 500m east of
is collected in stone cauldrons and pools for the airport, is worth a look. Many locals
bathing and washing clothes. Many stupas pluck on guitars around town; you can get
in the area are charmingly decrepit, their your own guitar here for K2000 to K3000.
bricks exposed or covered in vegetation. The principal Chin district, Tahan, is 3km
Foreigners almost never make it here. (At west of downtown and has a market too.
last pass, a teen swore we were ‘the first for- Just before the sign, turn south on Taung
eigner’ they’d ever seen.) You may be asked Za Lat Rd to reach the local golf course, set
to show your passport and keep notes of below a small mountain with a pagoda you
what you see and when. Locals will most as- can reach by foot. © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
suredly lead you around. A donation would About 15km west of the airport, in the restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
be appreciated, but it won’t be asked for. Chin Hills (and into restricted areas), is only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Each day a lone tractor/taxi makes the Shukintha (aka Mt Zion View Point), where
trip out from Shwebo’s bus station, but it a local can usually take you if you ask at the everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
doesn’t always make the trip back. It’s best unsigned police stand near the Kalaymyo the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Bagan & Central Myanmar
264 www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N & C E N T R A L MYA N MA R 265
Bagan & BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR 0

0
40 km
20 miles
Central Myanmar Monywa SAGAING

DIVISION
Sadaung
Madaya
Taungbyone
To Hsipaw
Chaung U Pyin U Lwin

Mandalay
Chin
er
Myinmu Sagaing Amarapura Riv
e
ng
dwin
yit
Dotting the 42-sq-km plain east of the curving Ayeyarwady, Bagan’s 3000-some temples not Paleik M
n R
iver
only make up the most wondrous sight in Myanmar, but rival Cambodia’s Angkor Wat in
Myine
terms of scope and jaw-droppability. If you are lukewarm on ruins, two or three days might
C E N T R A L M YA N M A R
Yesagyo
To Chin State Kyaukse
(50km)
change your temperature; if you love them, save as much time as you can afford. Pauk Myingyan
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
Yebya Nwa-htou gyi
The tallest and most majestic temples are awesome, mingling Hindu styles from India Myittha
Pakokku
with local-brewed Buddhist images in, atop and around the structures. Some get touristy,
Taungtha
Lawksawk
with postcard vendors following tour groups. Many others remain neglected, for you to MANDALAY
Nyaung U DIVISION
explore on your own. In any, shine your torch into dark corners and you’re likely to find
n
Gonkor
ai
Bagan Ananda SHAN
Pl
Patho
an
a tight stairway leading up to wide-open views, or the frayed remains of a vibrant mural 1
Saman River
STATE
y
ng
yi
depicting Buddha’s past lives that rarely sees an eyeball. See p293 for more details on
M
Seikpyu Mt Popa
Bagan’s temples. Chauk Kyaukpadaung Meiktila
Thazi
Salay
Apart from the temple-hop, nearby volcano-created Mt Popa (visible from a number of
Aye
ya
temples) beckons day-trippers with its spiritual home of Myanmar’s 37 nat (spirits). In the
rwa
Sinbyugyun
To Taunggyi
dy River
2 Pyawbwe Aungban
evenings, there’s the pizza chase in Nyaung U’s expanding dining scene, or finer eats on Salin
Kalaw
the riverside in New Bagan (Bagan Myothit) or Old Bagan hotels. Yenan-gyoung
Inle
Lake
Yamethin
Elsewhere in central Myanmar are the ‘lost cities of the dry zone’ – busy transit towns
that mean a lot if you are looking to buy or sell bags of rice, but less to travellers. Yet Sagu
any of these towns – riverside Pyay and Magwe on the Yangon–Bagan highway; Taungoo, Minbu
Magwe
Pinlon
Pyinmana and Meiktila on the busier Yangon–Mandalay highway – could soak up a quality Tatkon
day or two for the adventurer willing to make up their own fun. Taungdwingyi
Beikthano
HIGHLIGHTS
Pyinmana
Mandalay
As the sun drops, follow the hordes, or find your own MAGWE
Lewe
Mandalay &
temple, for Bagan sunsets (p300). Bagan Ferry DIVISION
One of Bagan’s most powerful temples, Ananda Pahto
Sitto
(p300) features a 51m-high corncob (sikhara) top and Bagan Ananda
Pahto
ung R
Myayde
lush murals at its neighbouring monastery. Mt Popa
Tayet
iv
The best way to reach Bagan is by a day-trip on a
er
1
Mandalay–Bagan ferry (p272) down the Ayeyarwady. KAYIN
Yedashe STATE
A rocky outcrop east of Bagan, Mt Popa (p277) is the BAGO
DIVISION
spiritual home to the 37 nat – and literal home to loads
of monkeys. RAKHAING Paukkhaung Taungoo
STATE
The ancient oval Pyu city of Thayekhittaya (p286), near Pyay
Thayekthittaya
Pyay, can’t rival Bagan in scope, but visiting is usually
just you and your ox cart. Thayekthittaya
Shwedaung
To Bago (170km);
Yangon (250km)
Akauk Taung
Temples of Bagan
266 B A G A N • • O r i e n t a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N • • Te m p l e s o f B a g a n 267
HISTORY TEMPLES OF BAGAN 0 1 km
Moving armies led by various people – BAGAN 0 0.5 miles
Ὀ
the Pyu, the Mon, the Burmese – swish- A B C D
swashed across this central plain, the ‘heart pug® To Thetkyamuni (1km);
Kondawgyi Pahto (1km);
of Myanmar’, over the centuries. The area Officially known as the ‘Bagan Archaeolo- Kyauk Gu Ohnmin (2km)
9 38
around Pyay served as the Pyu capital from gical Zone’, this 42-sq-km area, 190km 1 Ayeyarwady
River
the 5th to 9th centuries AD; some consider south of Mandalay and 690km north of Yan-
the Pyu as founders of Myanmar’s ‘first em- gon, includes the principal areas Nyaung U, 24 32
ὄ
Old Bagan
ng U Rd 39 57
pire’, though little remains known of this Old Bagan and New Bagan. This section r
46
41
Nyau
13 35 ve
vanished group. Bagan’s burst of energy ran includes sleeping, eating and transport op- 44
56
2 Ri 16
Bagan-
33 54
y
two-and-a-half centuries, beginning in 1047 tions. See p293 for the history and descrip- Archaeological 58 Rd ad Nyaung U
Museum
26 rah
ta
a rw 20
and ending – as footsteps of Kublai Khan tions of the temples themselves. 36 31
An
aw
Ay
ey
raiders approached (literally) – in 1287. 0 300 m 34 45
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
0 0.2 miles
ORIENTATION
Ny
See p293 for more on Bagan’s history. Wetkyi-in
15 7
au
ὄ
North Plain 60
ng
The Bagan Archaeological Zone is a mas- 2
Rd
U
gU
CLIMATE
-K
sive area, not immediately a breeze to get ya
un
ya
-N Tetthe
uk
59 an
This area comprises the bulk of the ‘dry to grips with. The Ayeyarwady drifts by its g
pa
Ba
da
W
zone’ of Myanmar, and it remains hot and northern and western sides. Its most active
un
et
ky
gR
18 i-i
dusty for much of the year. Most visitors town is Nyaung U (p269), in the northeast n
d
8 Cree Bagan
k To Tuyan Taung; Tan Kyi;
come in winter (November to February), corner. About 4km west, Old Bagan, in the 47 Tower
Kyaukpadaung (42km);
Mt Popa (53km);
ὄ
when daytime temperatures are a relatively zone’s northwest corner, is the former site Old Bagan 19
Rd
chilly 30ºC during the day; about 10ºC at of the village that moved to New Bagan, rah
ta 61
aw
night. From March to May, the hottest 3km south, in 1990. Between the two is An Central Plain
To Airport (2km);
Train Station (4km)
season, daytime temperatures boil at up to the scrappy village of Myinkaba, boasting a 3 Manu Kan
21
See Enlargement
43ºC. Rains peak in June and October, but long-running lacquerware tradition. 52
49
run throughout the monsoon. Intersecting paved roads make a 20km 51 53
27
oval that connects them. The Bagan–Nyaung 43 37
ὄ
23
GETTING THERE & AROUND U Rd (to the north) and more-level Anaw- 10
40
Minnanthu
Kan
Nyaung U is the principal gateway for Bagan, rahta Rd (to the south), connect Nyaung 14
with a train station and airport. Most vis- U and Old Bagan; the Bagan–Chauk Rd 50
Minnanthu
28 South Plain
itors by boat come downriver from Manda- leads south from Old Bagan to Myinkaba Myinkaba
5
25
lay. Despite being a major destination, most and New Bagan; the ‘airport road’ heads 30
3
long-haul bus routes (eg Yangon–Mandalay) northeast from New Bagan, past the small 4
West Pwasaw
miss Bagan, instead stopping at towns to the villages of Pwasaw and Minnanthu, to the 1
Bagan-Chauk Rd
29 55 17
east; Pyinmana and Meiktila. But there are Nyaung U–Kyaukpadaung Rd, leading 11 East Pwasaw
48
a few direct bus links with Yangon, Man- north to Nyaung U. Just east of the junc- Kontangyi35 B1
Old Palace Site...........................
dalay and Inle Lake. Coming from Yangon tion is the Nyaung U Airport, about 2km Pahtothamya..............................36 B2
Payathonzu................................37 D3
may require mandatory changes in Pyay and southeast of town. The train station is 2km 42 Dhammayazika Paya..................11 C4 Pebinkyaung Paya......................38 A1
Eight-Faces Paya........................12 A5
Magwe, and taking a couple of nights. Trains south of the airport. Gawdawpalin Pahto...................13 A1
Pitaka Taik..................................39 B1
Pyathada Paya...........................40 C4
to the Bagan area are very slow. Most people In between it all, of course, is the bulk Gubyaukgyi...............................14 A4 Sapada Paya..............................41 D1
Gubyauknge.............................. 15 C2
coming directly from Yangon by road do so of Bagan action: the plain, featuring most New Bagan
Thuhekan
Hmyathat Umin.........................16 D1
Seinnyet Ama Pahto..................42 A5
Seinnyet Nyima Paya...............(see 42)
via Pyay and Magwe by private taxi. of the temples, all connected with a vast 5 Hsu Taung Pye..........................17 C4 Shinbinthalyaung.......................43 A3
12 Htilominlo Pahto........................18 B2 Shwegugyi..................................44 B1
Thiripyitsaya k Izagawna...................................19 D3 Shwesandaw Paya......................45 B2
ee
Village Cr Kyanzittha Umin........................20 C2 Shwezigon Paya.........................46 C1
in
WHERE TO STAY? 6 os Kyat Kan Kyaung.......................21 D3
4 Ye Sint Pahto..................................47 B3
To Sittana Paya (1km); Lawkananda Paya......................22 A5
Chauk (30km); Salay (36km) Somingyi Kyaung.......................48 A4
22 Leimyethna Pahto......................23 D3 Sulamani Kyaung.......................49 B3
Old Bagan (p273) In the heart of the old palace walls; high-end hotels on the river cost from SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mahabodhi Paya........................24 B1 Sulamani Pahto........................(see 49)
US$50 to way more. There’s little life outside the hotels, but they are closest to the big-time Abeyadana Pahto........................ 1 A4 Manuha Paya............................25 A4 Tawagu..................................... 50 C4
Ananda Ok Kyaung......................2 B1 Mimalaung Kyaung...................26 A2 Tayok Pye Paya......................... 51 D3
temples. Ananda Pahto............................(see 2) Mingalazedi...............................27 A3 Thabeik Hmauk.........................52 C3
Anauk (West) Petleik Paya...........3 C4 Myazedi...................................(see 14) Thambula Pahto........................ 53 D3
New Bagan (Bagan Myothit; p275) Here are popular riverside restaurants (particularly for Anauk Petleik Paya......................4 A5 Myinkaba Paya..........................28 A4 Thamiwhet Umin....................... 54 D2
lunch), and the biggest choice of midrange hotels that charge from US$20 to US$40. Ashe (East) Petleik Paya............... 5 D4 Nagayon....................................29 A4 Thamuti & Kutha.......................55 B4
6 Nandamannya Pahto...............(see 21)
Ashe Petleik Paya........................ 6 A5 Thandawgya...............................56 B1
Aung Myi Bodhi Dhamma Nanpaya....................................30 A4
Nyaung U (p269) It has the liveliest restaurant options, tons of shoestringers guesthouses for Tharaba Gate..............................57 B1
Yeiktha....................................7 C2 Nathlaung Kyaung.....................31 B2 Thatbyinnyu Pahto.....................58 B2
about US$5 and comfortable bungalows for US$20 or less, but Nyaung U is furthest from the Buledi...........................................8 C3 New Palace Site..........................32 B1 Upali Thein.................................59 B2
bulk of the ruins. Bupaya.........................................9 A1 Ngakywenadaung Paya..............33 B2 Wetkyi-in-Gubyaukgyi...............60 C2
Dhammayangyi Pahto................10 B3 Nyein Gon Paya.........................34 A2 Winidho Group.......................... 61 D3
268 B A G A N • • I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N • • N y a u n g U 269
network of bumpy dirt roads and trails. At (%061-60032; office in Bagan Hotel in Old Bagan; www Many visitors have a ‘greatest-hits tem- Taxi
times, you’ll be well over a kilometre from .balloonsoverbagan.com; per person US$250). Most peoples’ day on horse cart first, to get a sense of Hiring a shared taxi for the day in Nyaung U
the nearest paved road. ple go in the morning. The price includes orientation, then follow it up checking fur- costs US$18 to US$20. An Old Bagan hotel
pick-up from your hotel (around 5am). The ther-flung or lesser-known temples by bike. will charge about US$25. Hired taxis are also
Maps cost is US$25 cheaper if you buy directly convenient ways of making day trips to Mt
In addition to the maps in this guide, you from the office a day in advance. Horse Cart Popa (p278) and Salay (p280).
can purchase The Map of Bagan (K500) at Mt Popa Adventure Tours (%061-67158, 09-200 An understandably popular way of seeing
most hotels. It shows many of the paths – 5501; day trip Oct-Apr US$45) offers full-day guided the ruins is from the shaded, padded bed Trishaw
though not always 100% accurate – and tours of Mt Popa including a swim at the of horse carts. Even if you’re on a package Bagan’s 300 trishaws see little action out-
you’re likely to mark it up with the latest posh Mt Popa Mountain Resort. If you trip – or especially so – it’s a good idea side trips within Nyaung U or between the
word of ‘nontouristy sunset’ and the like. don’t want a guide, you can do the same far to break away one day for the more inti- jetty and the hotels.
cheaper by hired taxi. mate trip. Drivers speak some English (at
INFORMATION You can also arrange tours to Chin State least), know where to find the ‘keymaster’ NYAUNG U
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
All foreign visitors to Bagan Archaeological from Bagan (see p329). to locked sites and can point out temples e–;='wI"
Zone must pay a US$10 entrance fee. If sell- with few/no tourists around. (Some might Most independent travellers call Nyaung U
ers don’t find you when you arrive, your GETTING THERE & AROUND stop by a shop with hopes for commission; home while in Bagan. The biggest town in
hotel will sell it to you. It technically lasts This section explains how to get around the it’s OK to say ‘no thanks’.) Two people can the area – and home to the key air, train and
as long as you’d like to stay. Be sure to take sites (temples, towns, stations). See also the lounge in the back of the cart, four can sit bus links – also has the most life after the
it with you if you’re leaving the zone on a Getting There & Away sections for Nyaung cross-legged. sun has fallen. About 5km northeast of Old
day trip. U (p272), Old Bagan (p275) or New Bagan In Nyaung U a day with a horse cart Bagan, along the Ayeyarwady, Nyaung U has
For travel information, often an excellent (p277) for details on getting to Yangon, Inle and driver runs about K5000 to K6000. It’s a hopping, relatively lively ‘restaurant row’,
source of local information is hotel staff, Lake, Mandalay and other destinations. about K2000 or K4000 more if taken from a colourful market, and the prototype of
or try Nyaung U’s Ever Sky Information Old Bagan or New Bagan. Finding one is many regional stupas, Shwezigon Paya.
Service (opposite) or the government-run To/From the Stations not a problem: in 2004, there were 225 horse The main road, aka Bagan–Nyaung U
MTT office in New Bagan (p275). From the boat jetty near Old Bagan, there carts around (a 30% increase since 2002). Rd, runs most of the way from the Nyaung
Nyaung U has a post office. You can get are set fees to go to hotels by trishaw, horse Supposedly about 60% to 80% of the intake U market to the small village of Wetkyi-in,
online in Nyaung U and at select hotels. cart or taxi. These fees are shown in the goes to a few businessfolk who rent out the 2km west towards Old Bagan. The strip of
Air ticket offices in Nyaung U and Old following table. carts. restaurants extends south of the main road,
Bagan sell domestic fares only. from just east of the bus station.
Destination Trishaw Horse cart Taxi Pick-Up Other than Shwezigon Paya, most of Ba-
BOAT TRIPS A pick-up (K200) runs regularly from out- gan’s key temples are outside Nyaung U, but
Sunset chasing in Bagan isn’t restricted to New Bagan K1500 K2000 K2500 side the Nyaung U market, ending near the there are interesting ones nearby (p309).
the tops of temples. An interesting alterna- Nyaung U K1000 K1500 K2000 junction in New Bagan and passing Wetkyi-
tive is a dusk boat trip on the Ayeyarwady. Old Bagan K500 K1000 K1500 in, Old Bagan and Myinkaba on the way. Information
The boat folk at the Old Bagan jetty tend to Technically this could be used to jump from INTERNET ACCESS
cater their hour-long tours for package tour- Taxis meet arriving trains and flights in one place to the next, then walk around the Internet Stand (per hr K1000; h8am-8pm) Tiny one-
ists, but anyone can arrange a ride (K4000 Nyaung U. temples, particularly in the Northern Plain computer stand across from the market.
for one person, K7000 for two to four), (p300) or within the old walls in Old Bagan Memory Email & Phone Service (restaurant row; per
which leaves around 4.30pm. Cheaper are Bicycle (p297). hr K3000; h8.30am-9.30pm) Makes overseas calls for
the boat guys just below the nearby Bupaya Bikes with baskets (and sometimes a bell) US$5 or US$6 per minute.
Paya (Bupaya Shrine; p299), who take six or are widely available and can be a super way RMCG Computer Centre (per hr K2500; h7am-9pm)
seven people for K3000 or K4000 total. of getting around, despite the direct expo- BAGAN TELEPHONE CODES Burns digital camera shots onto CD for US$2.
You can also arrange an interesting boat/ sure to sun and some dirt roads that slow Are a little crazy. The Bagan area has two
taxi sidetrip to mountaintop Tan Kyi, one of you up. Essentially all accommodation rents area codes: %061 and %02. You may see POST
four stupas that marked the original edges bicycles: in Nyaung U it costs about K500 some old numbers beginning with the bor- Post office (h9.30am-7pm) Sends postcards overseas
of the city. The boat across the river is about per day; Old Bagan and New Bagan charge rowed Pakokku code (%062), which were for K30.
K3500 return; taxis up the mountain and K2000 or K3000 per day. assigned in the rush for new telephone
back are about K7000. Traffic is usually light on all roads. Early- numbers as more businesses opened sine TELEPHONE
See p310 for boat trips to temples north morning or late-afternoon rides along the 2000. All old numbers that start with %062 Stands around town follow the same set
of Nyaung U. sealed Bagan–Nyaung U Rd are particularly have been switched to %02. All local num- prices. It’s US$5 per minute to call Europe
pleasant. It’s worth planning ahead a little, bers are five digits. To add to the fun, any or Australia, US$6 to call North America.
TOURS as the bulk of the temples in the Central old numbers that previously began with 70
Any accommodation option can arrange Plain (p302) are far from much shade or changed to 67, meaning the old number TOURIST INFORMATION
a ticket for 45-minute sunrise or sunset lunch potential. The most convenient eat- %062-70999 is now %02-67999. Ever Sky Information Service (%061-60146; res-
flights over Bagan with Balloons over Bagan ing options are in Old Bagan (p274). taurant row; h7am-9.30pm), on the restaurant
Nyaung U
270 B A G A N • • N y a u n g U www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N • • N y a u n g U 271
NYAUNG U 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
the main floor, and air-con and huge win- refrigerator, bathtub, wooden floor and
dows in the rooms upstairs. deckchairs on the small porch. Staff mem-
ὈὈ
To Pakkoku;
A B C Mandalay D Shwe Na Di (%061-60409; r per person US$3; a) bers are very welcoming, plus there’s a
Nyaung U
INFORMATION Riv
e r Jetty Run by a local English teacher (the school bakery and restaurant on site. Breakfast is
dy
Ever Sky Information Service........1 B2
yar
wa is just behind), this formerly unlicensed sometimes served on the lawn. Best mid-
Internet Stand..............................2 B2 Aye 3
1 IWT Office...................................3 C1 guesthouse offers basic rooms with new range comfort in Nyaung U.
Memory Email & Phone Service....4 B2
Myanma Economic Bank
SLEEPING air-con units and cold-water bathroom. Aung Mingalar Hotel (%061-60171; s/d without
Aung Mingalar Hotel...................8 A2
(Foreign Exchange).................5 C3 Pann Cherry Guest House (% 061-60075; s/d TV US$10/15, with TV from US$15/20; a) On the
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Eden Motel..................................9 C2
Police...........................................6 B2
Post Office...................................7 B2
29
Golden Village Inn...................(see 14)
To Thetkyamuni (1km); US$4/8, with shared bathroom US$3/6) Basic rooms main road, 300m west of the bus station,
10 B2
Inn Wa Ga..................................
RMCG Computer Centre...........(see 9)
25 10
Kondawgyi (1km)
Large Golden Pot.......................11 B2 come with a bed, fan, screen window and this laid-back complex faces the Shwezigon
Nyaung U
12 Lucky 7 Guest House..................12 B2 four walls – but it’s clean and cheap. Paya (kinda) and has three types of bunga-
Market
13 27 May Kha Lar Guest House..........13 B2
17 2 New Heaven Hotel.....................14 B2 Lucky 7 Guest House (%061-60474; r per person low-style rooms, all with patios. It’s comfy
Aye Nyein
Thayar Park 24
30 New Park Hotel..........................15 B2 US$3) It has fan-cooled rooms. and most guests enjoy it, though the con-
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
Shwezigon 6 Pan Cherry Guest House............16 B2
16
Paya 9 Shwe Na Di................................17 B2 Large Golden Pot (Ahnawrahta Rd; s/d with fan ditions are not appreciably better than the
Rd
Ὀ
2 Ahnawrahta Thante Hotel..............................18 C2
US$4/8, with air-con US$5/10; a) A bit low qual- budget deals around restaurant row. Rooms
Sapada 18
Paya EATING ity – concrete floor bathroom, iffy hot with TV have wood floors.
19 A Little Bit of Bagan...................19 B2
Zeigyo
(Market) U
Rd 20 4 15 11
Aroma 2.....................................20 B2
water, scuffed-up walls – but the Pot faces Golden Express Hotel (%02-67101; s) This
g
ya
u n 28 1 21 7 Aye Tha Har Vegetarian the wee Sapada Paya and is away from the is a good midrange option, a couple of
8 22 Restaurant..............................21 B2
-N 14 main crawl. At research time the Pot was kilometres west of town. It has four price
g an Myitzima (Middle) Restaurant....22 B2
Ba
23 26
Nanda........................................23 A3 planning to expand – new rooms may be ranges. The top two tiers (doubles US$24
5 Pho Cho...................................(see 19)
To Golden
Express Hotel San Kabar Restaurant & Pub......24 B2 decked out better. Its super name comes and US$30) are in nicer new wings; the
(750m) Winter Restaurant......................25 B2 from a consultation with a monk, who said most expensive is nominally nicer (tub in-
Rd ‘It should be named Golden Pot…wait a stead of shower). All rooms have hot water –
a TRANSPORT
ht
ra
aung
3 aw Air Mandalay.............................26 A3 tick, make that a large one.’ not to mention access to the lovely pool
An Air Ticket Office.........................27 B2
(US$3 for nonguests). There are a couple
Ch
To Airport (2km); Bus Station.................................28 B2

i-in
Train Station (4km); Buses to Old Bagan....................29 C1

Mt Popa (50km) Near the Restaurant Row of practically private pagodas nearby, for
tky
Bagan Train Ticket Office...................(see 12)

To
We
Old Bagan (3.5km);

Golf Course
Yangon Airways Office..............30 B2 These excellent budget choices give you (for sunsets that few outsiders witness.
New Bagan (8.5km)
Tetthe an extra dollar or so) more peace than the
main-road options plus a patio facing the Eating
strip, helps arrange cars and trips (suppos- May Kha Lar Guest House (%061-60306, 02-6706; leafy back lanes. There are two kinds of food in Nyaung U:
edly without commission) and offers other s/d US$6/10, with TV US$8/12; a) This well-kept, New Park Hotel (%061-60322; 4 Thiripyitsaya; pizza and nonpizza. The former, starting at
basic information. It has a small bookstore three-storey guesthouse has bright, clean s US$6-7, d US$10-12; a) The higher-priced rooms the San Kabar, has prompted an outpouring
with several books on Bagan. rooms with air-con, ceiling fan and screen in this two-complex, 20-room hotel on a of (often good) copycats in essentially any
windows. It’s quite pleasant. The guest- quiet sideline have teak floors rather than noodle shack in town. On ‘restaurant row’
Golf & Swimming house is run by the attentive Ms Cho, who carpet and are a bit newer. All rooms have inviting thatch restaurants with candlelit
The well-watered Bagan Golf Course (%061- will draw up Bagan maps (K500) to high- front porches. tables serve a grab-bag of cuisines.
60303; greens fee US$30, club rental US$10), just south light temples most visitors miss. Rooms Golden Village Inn (%02-67088; s US$6-12, d Aroma 2 (restaurant row; dishes K1500-3500; h11am-
of town, has about a half-dozen pagodas on with TV have wooden floors (though the US$8-15; a) The Village is another shady 9pm or 10pm) Aroma 1 is in Inle Lake, and No
its 18 holes. There’s also a swimming pool. sound may carry through the panelled walls spot with flower vines decorating room pa- 2 is about as good as food gets in Bagan,
to your neighbour). The excellent Western tios. The newer, higher-priced rooms come for Indian or otherwise. Lots of fresh
Sleeping or Bamar-style breakfast is served upstairs. with fridge and satellite TV. Rates drop by curries – fish, mutton, veggie, chicken –
Guesthouses on the main road are the sim- Eden Motel (%02-67078; s US$4-10, d US$10-15; US$2 or US$3 off season. come with dollops of condiments plopped
plest, but usually come with air-con. Off the a) South of the market on the main road, New Heaven Hotel (%02-67088; s/d US$5/8; a) on banana-leaf plates. A couple of the best
street, near the ‘restaurant row’ southeast this motel has 18 great-value rooms. Rooms Behind the Golden Village, and under the dishes, says the enthusiastic manager, are
of the centre, are quieter ones that have are cheaper – and a bit more inviting, hon- same ownership, the rooms offered here are ones that are ordered a day ahead, like the
porches. Some of the best budget deals are estly – in the older complex; they’re small simpler. boneless chicken breast.
not appreciably less comfy than some mid- and get little light, but the bamboo wall, Pho Cho (restaurant row; dishes from K1000; h8am-
range beds, here or in New Bagan. wooden floors and cranking AC make MIDRANGE 9pm) Though it cooks up Chinese, Indian
up for it. The little single up top is just Thante Hotel (%02-67317, in Yangon %01-664 424; and other dishes, Pho Cho is best at Thai-
BUDGET US$4. Across the street, the newer complex [email protected]; Main Rd; s/d US$30/35; style dishes. Its spicy ‘Thai sauce’ that ac-
Main Road has new tiled floors, more space, bathtubs as) South of the market, just off the companies several dishes may not be 100%
All the following come with free breakfast, and TV. main road, the Thante offers roomy bun- authentic, but it’s damn good. The vegeta-
can arrange bicycle rental for about K500 Inn Wa Ga (%02-67125; s/d US$3/6; a) A stone’s galows on shady grounds with a pleasant ble salad is a particularly good deal, coming
per day, and most drop their prices a dollar throw from the market, the Wa Ga offers swimming pool (US$3 for nonguests). hot and on a platter. Most dishes are under
or three off season. simple fan-cooled rooms and less light on Rooms come with satellite TV, twin beds, K2000; prawns ‘in Thai style’ are K4000.
272 B A G A N • • N y a u n g U www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N • • O l d B a g a n 273
Nanda (%02-67039; Main Rd; set meals K3500; for all but government-run MA. The MA catch an air-conditioned bus in Meiktila OLD BAGAN
h9am-10pm) Best at dinner, this higher-end office is in Old Bagan. going between Yangon and Mandalay also. pug®Dmúui¾eh;='"
restaurant (just west of town) serves fine During peak season, it’s important to Although Old Bagan is no longer inhabited
Burmese meals in an open-air setting. Ta- BOAT book bus tickets for Mandalay, Taunggyi (except by hotel and government employ-
bles are surrounded by floodlit (but fake) Boats to/from Mandalay go from Nyaung U (for Inle Lake) and Yangon a couple of days ees), it represents the core of the Bagan
ruins and two marionette stages for the and Old Bagan, often depending on water in advance. Archaeological Zone and contains several
nightly shows. The set meal is the best deal, levels. The Nyaung U jetty is about 1km north- of the main temple sites, city walls and a
including two meat dishes, soup, salad, a side east of the Nyaung U market. The IWT office, PICK-UP museum. It’s right on a bend of the Ayeyar-
dish, fruit and coffee; it’s K5000 if you go about 300m inland on the main road, sells Pick-ups to Mt Popa and Salay, as well as wady River – some time during your stay,
for prawns. Veggie dishes off the menu cost tickets for Mandalay, Magwe and Pyay. Chauk (K1000, two hours) and Kyaukpa- wander down to the waterfront and watch
K800 to K1000. Rates include 10% service From the jetty, the Shwe Kein Nayi Ex- daung (K1000, one hour) leave from the bus the coming and going of the river trade.
charge. press boat leaves at 5.30am for Mandalay station. You can take a boat across the river to the
San Kabar Restaurant & Pub (Main Rd; pizza (US$16, 12 hours) on Tuesday, Wednesday, Pick-ups between Nyaung U, Old Bagan village on the other side (see p268).
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
K2400-3600, pasta K1600-3600; h7am-10pm) Famous Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Some ferries and New Bagan run along the main street,
as the birthplace of Bagan pizza, the San leave for Mandalay from the jetty in Old starting from the roundabout outside the Archaeological Museum
Kabar’s streetside candlelit courtyard fills Bagan (p275). Ask your hotel for the latest Nyaung U market. Housed in an absurd, out-of-place, 19th-
nightly with travellers seeking tomato sauce times and jetty locations, which can change See New Bagan (p277) for info on pick- century-style temple, the museum (admission
and thin-crusted pies. It’s quite good. At last depending on the river’s water level. ups to Taunggyi (Inle Lake). US$3; h 9am-4.30pm) was built in 1996 by
pass, the wine – a too-sweet ‘French’ variety – You can also take the slow boat to Man- the same people who redid the Mandalay
couldn’t compete with the food. dalay (US$10, two nights) on Wednesday TAXI Palace. It features many fine pieces from
Winter Restaurant (Main Rd; pizza from K1500; pasta and Sunday at 5.30pm. It stays overnight in Many travellers hire share taxis – often Bagan (reclining Buddhas, original images,
K2000; h7am-10pm) Back from the main strip, Pakokku. The slow boat heading downriver quite old cars, some with open backs, most inscripted stones and mural recreations)
the Winter rallies for best pizza slice in its leaves at 7am on the same days, stopping in without air-con – to destinations around and an unexpected room of modern-art
open-air setting. Magwe (US$9, one night) and Pyay (US$9, the country. It’ll save time and bruises. Ask renderings of the temples. Not many visi-
A Little Bit of Bagan (restaurant row; pizzas K1700- two nights). at Ever Sky (p269) or at your hotel. tors go, but the collection is often good
K3000, Chinese dishes from K600, veggie dishes from Most visitors prefer taking the boat to Sample taxi fares: (though it could benefit from being ordered
K400; h7am-10pm) Just off the main road, this Bagan from Mandalay (p243), which takes chronologically).
thatch-roofed restaurant covers it all – Chi- less time. Destination Fare (US$)
nese, Shan, Burmese, Thai, burgers, Indian It’s possible to take Mandalay-bound boats Sleeping
and Italian. Pizzas are quite thin, but pretty and exit at Pakokku (p280) for about K8000, Inle Lake US$75-80 Old Bagan accommodation caters to a up-
good. The full Indian dinner (with soup, but it’s cheaper on the local ferries, which Mandalay US$50-60 market crowd and often fills months in ad-
salad and dessert) is K3500. leave for Pakokku (K1000, 2½ hours) five Meiktila US$25 vance of peak season. From any of these
times daily, from 6am to 3pm or so. It’s also Myingyan US$25 hotels, you’ll be fairly close – the eager can
Shopping possible to hire a long boat to Pakokku for Pyay US$80 walk it – to some of Bagan’s finest temples.
The main market, near the roundabout at about K10,000 or more. It’s a fun trip. From Yangon US$150 All hotels here have pools, most of which
the east end of the Main Rd, has many trav- Pakokku, there are direct buses to Monywa. nonguests can pay to use for the day. All
eller-oriented doodahs (woodcarvings, T- Another option is to take a van with air- also have restaurants and bars – some with
shirts, antique pieces) on its northern end. BUS con, which costs 15% or so more. nice river views. You’ll get teak furnishings,
The main bus station serving Bagan is on satellite TV and minibar in your room;
Getting There & Away the main road in Nyaung U. At research TRAIN most rooms have bathtubs (not shower) in
See Mt Popa (p278) and Salay (p280) for time, daily service included the following The Bagan train station is about 4km south- the private bathroom.
transport details on these popular day trips (times will likely change): east of Nyaung U. A ticket office on the main Prices listed don’t include the 10% serv-
from Bagan. road can help with changing times and ice charge and 10% government tax. From
Destin. Price Duration Frequency Type tickets. Presently, two morning trains a day April to September, expect a drop of up to
AIR leave for Mandalay (US$4/9 ordinary/1st 50%. Rates often rise US$10 or US$20 from
The Nyaung U Airport is a few kilometres Magwe K2500 4-5hr 7am minibus class, 10½ hours), a lone evening train heads Christmas to the first week of January.
southeast of the market. Flight schedules Mandalay K4000 8hr 7am & 9am local (no to Yangon (US$11/31, 20½ hours) and an- Bagan Hotel River View (%061-60032; www
vary. Presently Air Mandalay, Bagan Air, air-con) other morning train to Pyinmana (US$5/17, .myanmars.net/baganhotel; s/d US$70/80, ste from US$100;
Myanma Airways (MA) and Yangon Airways Meiktila K4000 - 7am & 9am local 12 hours). as) Probably the most appealing hotel
connect Bagan daily with Mandalay (US$45), Taunggyi K6000 10-12hr 5am local of the Old Bagan options, set right behind
Heho (US$65) and Yangon (US$93). Flights Yangon K6500 14-15hr 3pm air-con (Ye Thu Getting Around the Gawdawpalin Temple, this hotel fea-
to Thandwe (US$121) run daily October to Aung Express) Bicycles are cheaper to rent here than in New tures one-storey teak bungalows set around
April, though often stop in Yangon. Bagan or Old Bagan. It’s about K500 per a curvy pool. Guests and nonguests can
On the main road, a ticket office (%02-67406, A local bus also connects Nyaung U with day. See p268 for more on getting around enjoy the riverside restaurant, bar, salon and
09-204 2001; h9am-5pm) sells domestic tickets Yangon for K2500. You may be able to the Bagan site. ‘night bazaar’ shopping area. A big breakfast
Old Bagan
274 B A G A N • • O l d B a g a n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N • • M y i n k a b a 275
OLD BAGAN 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Shopping road. Most keep long hours (from 7am to
Just east of Tharabar Gate (and well signed 9pm) during peak season. Cheap-quality
ὄὄ
A To Pakokku; B C D off the Bagan–Nyaung U Rd), Shwe War Thein stuff is generally what you’ll be offered by
Mandalay
Nyaung U Handicrafts Shop (%061-67032; dsavariau@mptmail hawkers at the Manuha Paya (and around
Rd
aun
gU .net.mm; h7am-9pm in peak season) is a treasure Bagan actually).
Ny trove of Myanmar trinkets is one of the re- Art Gallery of Bagan (%061-60307) It has a
1 Aye Yar ga
n-
Hotel Ba
Old Bagan Taungbi SLEEPING gion’s best souvenir shops. The collection nice-sized showroom, with top-tier 18-
Jetty
ve
r Bagan Hotel River View...............3 A2 includes antique and new puppets, wood layer offerings in the air-conditioned room
Ri 9
Bagan Thande Hotel....................4 A2
a dy
10
Old Bagan Rd Hotel @ Tharabar Gate.................5 B2 carvings, chess sets, lacquerware and bronze out the back. The workshop next door stays
rw hta
ey
a 7
aw
ra Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel............ 6 A2 pieces. There’s essentially no pressure to busy until 5pm or so.
Ay 5 An
8 2 buy, and staff dig the stuff too (at the last Golden Cuckoo (%02-67028) Just behind the
EATING
11
Tharaba
Golden Myanmar.........................7 B1
Sarabha II..................................(see 5)
visit, one manager pulled an old puppet off Manuha Paya, this family-run workshop
Gateway
3
Vegetarian Restaurant..................8 B2 the shelves to keep because she liked it too spans four generations. Seven-layer plates,
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
1 SHOPPING
much). cups, bowls and trays are up front; the more
2 4
INFORMATION
Manu Kan
Shwe War Thein Handicrafts Shop..9 B1 Lacquerware selections are bigger in detailed 14-layer stuff is in the air-conditioned
Balloons Over Bagan..................(see 3)
6 TRANSPORT
Myinkaba (below) and New Bagan (p277). room in the back, where you can find some
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Air Mandalay.............................(see 8) more unique spins on ‘traditional’ than at
To Myinkaba (1km);
Archaeological Museum...............1 A2
New Palace Site............................2 B2
Boats..........................................10 A1
Myanma Airways.......................11 B2
Getting There & Away most workshops.
New Bagan (3km)
Depending on water levels, boats from
Mandalay arrive in Old Bagan, near the Aye Getting There & Around
comes with the price. Its 108 rooms are often Avoid the riverside Aye Yar Hotel as it is Yar Hotel; see p272 for more on boats leav- Pick-ups running between New Bagan and
full. There’s a younger clientele here than at government-run. ing Nyaung U, the major gateway for buses, Old Bagan (and Nyaung U) stop here. You
some of its neighbours. trains and planes out of Bagan. can rent bikes at Phyo Guest House for
Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel (%02-67289; www Eating You can buy plane tickets from the Air K1500 per day.
.bagan-thiripyitsaya-sakura-hotel.com; r US$90-120, ste from With few or no eating options amid the Mandalay office (%02-67021) and Myanma Air-
US$250; as) Spread out on a wide-open temples, Old Bagan’s restaurants are a logi- ways office; both keep irregular hours on the NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT )
bank with big views of the Ayeyarwady, this cal central point for lunch. main road. pug®Dmui¾oc''
hotel was government-run until 1995, when Sarabha II (dishes K1200-6000; h11am-10pm) Of In 1990 the government relocated the locals
it became a Japanese-run joint-venture. It’s the two Sarabhas back-to-back, between the MYINKABA from ‘Old Bagan’ here, and – give them
about 500m south of the Old Bagan walls. gate and the Hotel @ Tharabar Gate, we like ¨m='"kp: credit – the locals have done their best in
Rates don’t include breakfast (US$8 extra), the one behind best, away from the road. This village, about 1km south of Old Bagan making the most of their new home. Lo-
but the all-day restaurant is excellent. The The quiet area, under a big airy thatch roof, and 2km north of New Bagan, is famed for cated 3km south of Old Bagan, New Bagan
spa offers various scrubs, rubs and wraps; an is good for Chinese, Burmese, Thai, some its family-run lacquerware shops and some has a number of new, more midrange guest-
hour-long foot massage is US$18. The pool Western dishes and a few veggie options for choice Early Bagan–period pahto (tem- houses and hotels, and some nice river-spot
is big, with a nice bar nearby. K1200 to K1500. Chicken Kiev costs K4000, ples) and stupas (p304). King Manuha, the restaurants.
Bagan Thande Hotel (%061-60025; www.bagan spaghetti K2000. The food’s good, but best respected ‘Captive King’, built the poetic
thande.com; s US$24-54, d US$28-60; as) Open is the cold towels handed out to sponge the Manuha Paya while held here in the 11th- Information
since 1922, this riverside hotel is a longstand- dust off your face. century. The telephone office is on the main street.
ing Bagan accommodation – and certainly a Golden Myanmar (buffet K1500; h10am-10pm) Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT; %061-60277, 02-
big fixture on the package-trip circuit. It has Keep-it-real seekers (and lots of horse-cart Sleeping & Eating 67418; h8.30am-4.30pm), the government-run
three types of rooms, plus US$200 suites. drivers) prefer this roadside eatery with Phyo Guest House (%061-60307; s/d US$10/15; a) tourist office (the only one in the Bagan
The higher-priced ‘duplex’ rooms have river shaded seats on a brick floor. ‘Buffet’ (your Next to busy-by-day Art Gallery of Bagan, area), is just north of town. It can help
views. Some guests have been disappointed pick of chicken, pork, fish or mutton curry) this guesthouse has rather basic, overpriced organise excursions (and getting permis-
with the older cheap rooms, though they comes with usual tableful of condiments, rooms with clean but worn wood floors and sion) to visit Chin State (p328). At the time
also come with satellite TV, air-con and fruit dessert and a tasty fried ‘bean stick’. wall panelling, hot showers and a desk. No of research (before negotiations), the of-
minibar. There’s a good pool (nonguests can About 250m west of the gate (at the turn- TV or refrigerator. It’s footsteps from the fice charged US$150 per day per person
use it for US$3). off for Bupaya), you’ll see some simple res- lovely Gubyaukgyi temple, though. on a three-day, two-night trip to visit Chin
Hotel @ Tharabar Gate (%061-60037, in Yangon taurants, including Vegetarian Restaurant There are a few eating stalls across from State villages and climb Mt Victoria, a bird-
%01-211 966; www.tharabargate.com; r from US$100; and a Chinese restaurant behind. Manuha Paya, serving mostly Chinese watching haven.
pais) Away from the river (and The restaurants at the hotels in Old Bagan dishes for around K1000.
500m north of Ananda Temple), this newer add a little comfort (and kyat) to your meal. Sleeping
hotel has 86 antique-filled rooms around a The Bagan Hotel and Thiripyitsaya Sakura Shopping New Bagan is best for its midrange options,
big, (fake) elephant-guarded pool. The hotel Hotel are particularly good; the latter offer- If you’re getting serious about lacquerware, usually generator-run motels with a bit
is quite pleasant (despite that tacky ‘@’ in ing the biggest view of the river (try it for Myinkaba’s yer pal. More than a handful more comfort than the cheapies in Nyaung
its name). sunset gin-and-tonic). of workshops are signed along the main U. All prices here include breakfast.
Bagan Myothit (New Bagan)
276 B A G A N • • N e w B a g a n ( B a g a n M y o t h i t ) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B A G A N • • M t P o p a 277
NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT) 0

0
500 m
0.3 miles NK Betelnut Hotel (%061-60326; Main Rd; s/d/tr areas, with evening sitting on lawn between.
US$15/18/23; a) This cheapie midranger of- There’s no show, but you can overhear the
A B C D fers two dozen rooms decked in cute laven- Green Elephant’s.
INFORMATION Bagan Central Hotel.....................5 B3 EATING der hues or bamboo trim. Some rooms have Sithu Restaurant (%02-67173; h11am-3pm &
Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT)...1 B2
Telephone Office.........................2 B3
Kaytumadi Dynasty Hotel............6
Kumudara Hotel...........................7
D3
C2
Green Elephant/River View
Bagan Restaurant..................14 A3
windows on two sides, good for extra light. 6-11pm) Another riverside eatery with a night
1 Kyaw Hotel..................................8 B2 Silver House Restaurant..............15 B3 Rooms have wood floors and are comfy de- show, Sithu is slightly less stylish than the
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House.............9 B3 Sithu Restaurant........................16 A3
Eight-Faces Paya..........................3 C3 NK Betelnut Hotel......................10 C3 Sunset Garden Riverside
spite a nick or two. It’s better value for a other two.
Thazin Garden Hotel..................11 C3 Restaurant.............................17 A2 double or triple. On the main road in town, the simple
SLEEPING Thiri Marlar Hotel.......................12 B2
Bagan Beauty Hotel......................4 B3 Thiri Sandar Guest House...........13 B3 SHOPPING
Kyaw Hotel (%02-67377; Nwe Ni St; s/d US$15/20; Silver House Restaurant cooks up fish and
Moe Moe..................................18 C2 a) Another midrange option nearby, with prawns for about the same price, but fried
To Myinkaba (2km); U Ba Nyein.................................19 C3
7 10 rooms. rice (not on the menu; ask) is only K800.
Old Bagan (3.5km);
Nyaung U (8.5km) School TRANSPORT There is also a cluster of hotels on the south-
River
Urban Health 1 Airline Office..............................20 B3

Centre east edge of town; one is the Kaytumadi Dynasty Shopping
BAGAN &
Airline Office..............................21 B2
BAGAN &
Police 12
17 Bicycle Rental...........................(see 15) Hotel (%02-67123; www.kaytumadi.com; s/d US$25/35; Nearby Myinkaba village has more lacquer-
rwady
2 Tiger Head Express

Pick-Ups to Taunggyi............22 B2 a), with 34 rooms in cabin-duplexes, all cov- ware factories and shops, but New Bagan
Rd
Ayeya
ered with toddy palm logs. The grounds are has two excellent options too.
auk
nice (with well-maintained creek and horse- Moe Moe (%062-70031; Main Rd; h9am-9pm)
n-Ch
To Airport
22 (7.5km)
18
cart-wheel bridge), but rooms are a bit worn Large showroom with mix of traditional
Baga
14
21 for the price. and modern lacquerware; the factory is in
Morning
16
9 2 15
3 10 Market full swing during the day.
4
Khaye St (Main Rd)
13
TOP END U Ba Nyein (%02-67050; Main Rd; h9am-9pm)
20
Thazin Garden Hotel (%061-60052; www.thazigarden Another showroom, across from the centre
Myat La
5 19
Thiripyitsaya
hotel.com; s US$45-55, d US$55-65; as) Several zedi.
y Rd
3 Village ee
k
notches in comfort and style above the
Cr
other midrange options, this hotel is nicely Getting There & Around
in
11
os
Ye
lost in New Bagan’s southern side. It has See Nyaung U (p272) for most transport
two complexes: one is a leafy ‘British colo- options to/from the region. Tiger Head Ex-
6
nial bungalow’ style; the other is a pagoda- press Co sends daily pick-ups to Taunggyi
brick-style two-storey complex facing the (K1000, 10 hours) at 3am. There are airline
BUDGET Thiri Marlar Hotel (% 02-67370; thirimarlar@ pool and the hotel’s personal pagoda. All offices on Main Rd a block north.
Bagan Beauty Hotel (%061-60351; Main Rd; s/d mptmail.net.mm; s/d US$20/25; a) This excellent- rooms have dark-wood floors and some Bicycle rental is K1500 per day at budget
US$3/6; a) This friendly blockhouse chea- value hotel, a couple of blocks from the road artful touches (such as hanging paper um- hotels or at the stand next to Silver House
pie is clean but no diva. Its 12 simple rooms to Old Bagan, has 21 often-filled rooms set brellas). Dinner’s served in high season on Restaurant, or about K3000 at others. See
have hot shower, twin beds and wrinkled around teak walkways facing a leafy court- the lawn around the pagoda. Nonguests can p268 for more on getting around the Bagan
vinyl floors. yard with a bamboo coffeehouse. Up top is swim for US$5. site.
Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House (%02-67037; Main Rd; a wide-open bar, and further up, near the
s/d US$6/12; a) Next to the Bagan Beauty, crenulated rooftop, is a breakfast deck over- Eating
Kyi Kyi Mya rents its 10 basic rooms with
air-con to foreigners (and discourages its
looking Bagan’s sprawl. Rooms have twin or
double beds and come with showers with
New Bagan’s restaurants serve most meals
at lunch, particularly the handful of river-
AROUND BAGAN
fan-cooled rooms). It’s cute enough from curtain and minibar. The staff isn’t always side restaurants that draw some tour groups. MT POPA
the outside, and the welcoming manage- versed in English, but they try hard. At night most host 7pm marionette/music pup¹:"et;='
ment bursts with good lacquerware tips, Kumudara Hotel (% 02-67080; www.kumudara shows and set tables on the lawn overlook- %02
but it’s probably not worth the extra kyat -bagan.com; s/d US$30/36; a) At the quiet north- ing the Ayeyarwady River – not a bad thing If you look towards the range of hills that
compared with the Beauty. eastern edge of town, the Kumudara has 50 to do at all. Fish and prawns culled from the rise, shimmering in the heat, behind Bagan,
Thiri Sandar Guest House (%061-60372; Main Rd; pleasant motel-style rooms with wood floors, river are highly plugged (and priced). you can often see (barely) a solitary peak
s/d US$6/12; a) Facing the centre zedi (stupa), high ceilings and – best of all – back porches, The following three places have fish dishes standing apart from the range’s west end.
this two-storey guesthouse has clean, car- some of which face the Bagan plain. for K2000 to K4000, prawns for K4000 to Rising to 737m from the flat, surrounding
peted rooms and hot shower, with breakfast Bagan Central Hotel (%02-67141; Main Rd; s K6000 and vegetables from K1000 to K2000. Myingyan Plain, and topped with a superb
served on a front terrace. It’s a bit nicer than US$10 & 15, US$15 & 20; a) Good-value rooms Green Elephant/River View Bagan Restaurant pagoda, Mt Popa (Popa Daung Kalat in
the other budget options. If a room is smoky, in stone-covered units with hot water, ar- (%02-67099; h11am-4pm & 6-10pm) This place Burmese) is said to be the core of an extinct
ask for another. Little English is spoken. moire, wood floors (keep shoes outside!) has several bamboo-thatch covered areas volcano last active 250,000 years ago. It’s a
and twin beds, all set around a courtyard around a central lawn, and there’s a nightly popular and worthwhile half-day trip from
MIDRANGE with tables for open-air breakfast. Cheaper music and puppet show. Bagan (but you probably should consider
Expect hot water and satellite TV at each rooms are the best deals if you can deal Sunset Garden Riverside Restaurant (%061- it only if you have at least two full days to
of the following. without tub or TV. 60404; h11am-3pm & 6-11pm) It has two covered offer to Bagan).
278 A R O U N D B A G A N • • M t P o p a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B A G A N • • S a l a y 279
Sometimes described as the ‘Mt Olympus brothers who were born to a marriage be- Kyaukpadaung (K1000, one hour) and then BAGAN-ERA MONUMENTS
of Myanmar’, Mt Popa is the most impor- tween Mae Wunna and an Indian Muslim another to Mt Popa (K500, 45 minutes). This Little of Salay’s history is known outside
tant nat worship centre in the country. The in Anawrahta’s employ. The two sons were would take up a full day. a small circle of Myanmar archaeologists
tiger-guarded Mahagiri shrine, at the foot of murdered at Taungbyone, where Anaw- working with limited funds. So details on
the mountain – just across from the steps rahta built a shrine in their honour. Once SALAY the 103 ruins – most of them known only
guarded by elephant statues (loads of crit- a year, the Taungbyone nat are believed to cel by number rather than name – are sketchy.
ters around here) – contains a display of travel a spirit circuit that includes Mt Popa, This village, 36km south of Bagan, devel- It is said that most of the monuments in
mannequinlike figures representing the 37 Taungbyone (about 22km north of Manda- oped in the late 12th and 13th centuries as Salay weren’t royally sponsored but were
nat and is a major pilgrimage destination. lay) and China. the expanding influence of Bagan moved built by the lower nobility or commoners –
Burmese superstition says you shouldn’t southward along the nearby Ayeyarwady thus there are no structures on the grand
wear red or black on the mountain, nor Sleeping & Eating River. Today the village of 7000 residents scale of Bagan’s biggest ones.
should you curse, say bad things about other Popa Mountain Resort (% 02-69168, in Yangon is much more of an active religious cen- In the pagoda-filled area across from the
people or bring along any meat (especially %01-202 071; www.woodlandgroups.com; superior s/d tre than Bagan, with some 50 monasteries Youqson Kyaung, you can see Payathonzu
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
pork) – any of these actions could offend US$50/60, deluxe r from US$120; as) On the (that’s one per 140 locals if you’re count- (see p308; Temples Nos 18, 19, 20), about
the residing nat who might then retaliate mountain overlooking Mt Popa, this spec- ing). Day-trippers take in working 19th- 100m east, which is a small trio of brick
with a spate of ill fortune. And no-one likes tacular resort (a Singaporean joint venture) century wooden monasteries, some select shrines with sikhara (Indian-style corncob-
a mad nat. teams with sandalwood forest and views. Bagan-era shrines and more untouched like temple finial) and some faded murals
Atop the impressive rocky crag clings a The higher-priced deluxe bungalows, British colonial buildings than you’ll find inside. The westernmost one (to the left if
picturesque complex of monasteries, stu- perched on stilts, face Mt Popa – making it in much of Myanmar. It can be paired with you come from the museum) has the most
pas and shrines that you can climb to via a one of the better splurge options in central Mt Popa on a full-day trip, though the two visible murals and also a narrow set of stairs
winding, covered walkway, complete with Myanmar. The rates can often be negotiated. are in different directions from Bagan. leading to a small terrace. Legend has it that
some misbehaving monkeys. The 25- The pool is nice (nonguests can swim here In the late 1960s, Salay got some atten- it was constructed by three sisters. If it’s
minute climb is steep and stiff, but it gets for US$2), and there are two restaurants and tion from a Japanese company that built a locked, ask at Youqson Kyaung.
cooler as you get higher. Views are fantastic. a bar. It’s possible to climb Ma Gyi Taung huge fertiliser plant (and a golf course for More interesting is the modern makeover
Some of the frequent pilgrims here include (the mountain just behind) in four hours. visiting execs). Myanmar has run it solo of the Bagan-era Shinpinsarkyo Paya (Temple No
nonordained, slow-walking hermit monks Hotel transport to Mt Popa from here is for a couple of decades. In 2004 a massive 88; %063-40357), about 6km southwest of town
called yeti, who wear tall, peaked hats. US$5. explosion killed two workers. via a dodgy road. The road passes two bridges
If you come by share taxi, ask the driver Min Min Soe Guest House (%02-67637; r US$15) (one was washed out by rains at last visit, but
to point out bits of petrified forest, which are In Popa village, a couple of kilometres down Sights passable by makeshift road over dry creek
strewn along either side of the road. from the mountain, are a couple of cheap YOUQSON KYAUNG bed). Inside the glass and tile-filled pagoda,
Also present is much volcanic ash, which sleeping places. Best is this seven-room job, rup'c®uekY;='" you’ll find an original 13th-century wood
makes the surrounding plains fertile. The with fan-cooled rooms, shiny tile floors, Designed as a copy of the Crown Prince Lokanat (Mahayana Bodhisattva guardian
heights capture the moisture of passing screen windows and also cold-water private House in Mandalay, and built from 1882 spirit). The nearby northern entrance pas-
clouds, causing rain to drop on the plateau showers. to 1892, the huge wooden monastery (admission sageway features interesting 19th-century
and produce a profusion of trees, flowering There are a few restaurants at the base of US$3; h9am-4.30pm) is the best place to start a 3-D murals (some torture to see). Original
plants and herbs. In fact, the word Popa is Mt Popa and in Popa village. visit in Salay. Along two of its exterior sides woodcarvings abound, some of which are
derived from the Sanskrit word for flower. are detailed original carvings displaying painted afresh in original design.
Getting There & Away 19th-century court life, and scenes from the Another kilometre south (most taxis won’t
Festivals & Events Most travellers visit Mt Popa in half a day Jataka (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) drive it, but it’s an easy 15-minute walk) is
Mt Popa hosts two huge nat pwe (spirit festi- by share taxi or by organised tour from their and Ramayana (one of India’s best-known Temple No 99, an unassuming 13th-century
vals) yearly, one beginning on the full moon hotel. In Nyaung U, guesthouses could get legends); sadly another side’s pieces were shrine that features 578 painted Jataka scenes
of Nayon (May/June) and another on the full you a slot in a share taxi (without guide) looted in the 1980s. Inside, past the naga inside. It’s noted by some, for the last 16
moon of Nadaw (November/December). for US$5 per person. Hiring a whole taxi is (dragon serpent) steps, in the 23m-long hall, paintings on the left as you enter; these rep-
Before King Anawrahta’s time, thousands US$15 or US$20. Hotels in Old Bagan and are more original details as part of a small resent the ‘16 Dreams of King Kosala’. Very
of animals were sacrificed to the nat during New Bagan charge more; eg the Thiripy- museum. The 17th- to 19th-century pieces few foreigners have come here.
these festivals, but this practice has been itsaya Sakura Hotel in Old Bagan charges are behind glass cases, while the Bagan-era
prohibited since the Bagan era. Spirit pos- US$100 for a full-day guided trip for up to woodcarvings (including a massive throne Other Sights
session and overall drunken ecstasy are still six persons. backdrop) stand in open view. One of the most interesting aspects of Salay
part of the celebration, however. Mt Popa Adventure Tours (p268) offers The monastery was renovated twice in is the faded colonial buildings around town,
There are several other minor festivals, a day trip, including area sights. the 1990s and now features a tin roof to many of which still feature the Royal Crown
including ones held on the full moons of At research time, a direct pick-up left protect the carvings. The Department of (look around the market area, about 200m
Wagaung (July/August) and Tagu (March/ Nyaung U’s bus station at 8am, waited two Archaeology runs the site; on-site staff west of the museum). Few buildings in My-
April), which celebrate the departure and hours at Popa, then returned (K2500 return, can point you to other nearby sites, in and anmar still sport the lion-guarded crown.
return of the famous Taungbyone nat – Min one hour each way). Otherwise you can outside town. For general information, try In the complex across from the museum
Gyi and Min Lay – each year. These nat are take an hourly pick-up from Nyaung U to %063-40221. (west of the Payathonzu), the Nan Paya (aka
280 A R O U N D B A G A N • • Pa k o k k u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY • • M a g w e 281
the Mann Paya) is a modern pagoda housing lazy pace and rather tropical feel can make Getting There & Away southeast of the central market. Rooms are
a 6m gold Buddha made of straw lacquer. for a very rewarding day. A bustling tobacco You can travel by local bus to/from Monywa fan-cooled, mattresses are thin, and show-
As the story goes, the Buddha image was centre, the town is about 25km north of (K600, 4½ hours); four leave Monywa daily. ers are cold. The shared bathrooms – plain
originally located near Monywa, and it was Bagan on the Ayeyarwady. The bus station is 3km south of the centre. concrete floor deals, with mosquito net and
washed downstream during an 1888 mon- A handful of ferries go to Nyaung U a plastic chair – are clean and save you from
soon – all the way to Salay! Ask for a peek Sights (K1000, two to three hours) from a couple the rancid smells of some of the private-
inside from the latched door out the back. In town there’s little in the way of attractions. of jetties a kilometre or so southeast of the bathroom options. The staff is nice, but
Just north of the Payathonzu, the monas- About 27km northeast, on the way to Mon- market; the first goes around 5am, the last sometimes get confused by questions like
tery and meditation centre of Sasanayaunggyi ywa, are the remains of Pakhangyi, a 19th- around 2pm. You can also hire a private boat ‘Where can I get a trishaw?’
Kyaung (a bit of a stop-off point for day- century wooden monastery. It’s supposedly to make the trip for K10,000 to K15,000 – Diamond Restaurant (dishes from K1000) A bit
trippers) features a lovely 19th-century glass US$3 to visit, but the caretaker tends to ask the earlier in the day, the cheaper. northwest of the market, this is nothing
armoire with Jataka-painted panels and 400- only for a ‘K1000 donation’. About 5km east Another way to reach Pakokku is via special, but offers a menu in English for its
year-old scripture in Pali inside. The monks (via the road behind the big modern pa- the Mandalay–Bagan ferry from Mandalay Chinese food, which includes several veggie
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
are chatty and friendly, and will ask for a goda) is the destroyed frame of Pakhanngeh (p243) or Bagan (p272). options.
donation for their onsite school. Kyaung, which was once the country’s larg-
Adventure-seekers could investigate 41 est wooden monastery, with 332 teak pillars. MYINGYAN Getting There & Around
more Bagan-era temples around Sarlai, 80km Many still stand, and the area – near the fork ¨m='"¨x® Frequent buses and pick-ups leave from the
(50 miles) south of Salay by bad road. You’d of the Ayeyarwady and Kaladan Rivers – %066 street just east of the Myingyan–Meiktila
need to hire a 4WD jeep in Bagan. It’s also makes for interesting exploration. You could Despite its Ayeyarwady River location 88km road, a couple of blocks south of the market,
possible to reach by boat – it’s worth asking take a local bus bound for Monywa and stop north of Nyaung U (towards Mandalay by for Meiktila (K1000/3000 for a back/front
at Youqson Kyaung before setting off. at Pakhangyi. A shared taxi here is about map), Myingyan – sorta rhymes with ‘en- seat, 2½ hours). Passengers tend to take the
US$20, a motorcycle taxi about US$10. gine’ – sees very few travellers, as major bus pick-ups. Some buses, however, continue
Sleeping & Eating If time is limited, you might get more out routes bypass the bumpier roads that come on to Mandalay. A lone daily pick-up goes
Salay has no hotels or guesthouses – for any- of Pakokku by seeing its market or just wan- here. Some long-distance boats stop at the to Nyaung U (two hours) at 4.30am.
one – and police apparently frown at for- dering its picturesquely decrepit side streets, Ayeyarwady docks, just west of town, but The train station is a fine old building a
eigners staying in local monasteries. Nearby with old homes backed to the Ayeyarwady. not the Mandalay–Bagan express boats. couple of blocks east of the market. A couple
Chauk has no licensed guesthouses either. of daily trains connect Myingyan with Bagan
Eating options are better in Chauk, but Festivals Sights (three hours), and Mandalay (6½ hours).
you can find some noodles or rice at the One of the town’s biggest pwe festivals, Thi- If you make it to this sprawled-out town Trishaw is the main transport around
Salay market. hoshin, is held during Nayon (May/June). of 260,000, the two-storey central market is town. A trip to the two religious sites and
a good starting point. About 1.5km east, back to the hotel is about K1000.
Getting There & Away Sleeping accessed from the road just north of the
Salay is 36km south of Bagan on an often- Mya Yatanar Inn (%21457; 75 Lanmataw St; r per person train station, is the Bodhi Dat Taw Taik (mean-
flood-damaged road. You pass through the
larger town of Chauk on the way. From
K3500) Pakokku’s main accommodation op-
tion is like no other in Myanmar. The manag-
ing ‘depository of Buddha’s relics’), where
(in the monastery just west) you can see
BAGAN TO PYAY
Chauk, another road goes east to Kyauk- ers are an outgoing English-speaking couple: Buddha relics (teeth, hair, bone, even skin) There are two major routes that lead north
padaung, with a turn-off for Magwe. a 70-something former boxing teacher and housed intriguingly in the former safe of from Yangon. The places described below
A hired taxi for a four- or five-hour trip his Kachin wife. ‘An old place run by old peo- a British colonial bank. Monks will open are on the western route, which is part of
to Salay from Nyaung U runs from US$17 to ple’, said one of them. The pair accidentally it for you. the Yangon–Bagan Hwy, sometimes called
US$25. Often trips include Mt Popa (extra). started the business when they invited in a About 1.5km south of the market, via the ‘low road’. It follows along the eastern
There’s also a morning pick-up from Nyaung couple of backpackers sleeping in the street in the north–south Mandalay–Meiktila Rd, is bank of the Ayeyarwady River.
U to Chauk (about K1000, two hours), where 1980. Based on the notebook postings scrawled the Soon Lu Kyaung, an important monastery
you can catch another (from roughly 11am by guests over the years, they’ve provided where you can see the remains of the well- MAGWE
to 4pm) to Salay (about K500, one hour). more than a share of trip highlights. Their known Soon Lu Sayadaw draped in monas- mekâ"
Considering that neither town have licensed appealing two-storey home has some (very) tic robes. He died in 1951, though his body %063
guesthouses, and that some sites in Salay are basic rooms with shared bathroom upstairs – is (relatively) well preserved. An attendant Capital of the Magwe Division, this dusty,
spread out, this is not very feasible. electricity is mostly off here, as with all of Pa- said, ‘He was a great man, very powerful. predominately Burmese, midsize town on
kokku. They can help you find good food or No chemicals on his body were used and the Ayeyarwady River (about 150km south
PAKOKKU get a taxi deal, or show you to local pagodas he still is strong.’ of Bagan) has some quirks. In 1988 it was
%062 or where tattooing is done. It’s on the river, a supposedly the country’s only city to sit
pxukð† couple of blocks east of the market. Sleeping & Eating out the prodemocracy marches, and still fa-
A stopping point of the Mandalay–Bagan Tha Pye No Guest House (%21166; Myoma Rd; r One Star Drive In Inn (%21389; Myo Pat St, 16th quar- vours a noticeable play-it-by-the-rules vibe.
ferries, and terminus of bus routes from US$4-8; a) This is a basic backup. The higher- ter; r per person K6000) The only licensed accom- It sees a rare tourist heading betwixt Pyay
Monywa to the north, Pakokku sees few priced room has private bathroom and air- modation in Myingyan is this odd group and Bagan, perhaps, as is evident by encir-
travellers for more than 10 minutes, but its con running on the iffy local current. of bungalows on a side street about 1km cling curious staff at quiet restaurants.
Magwe
282 B A G A N T O PYAY • • M a g w e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY • • P y a y 283
In 2002 the 2930m (8789ft) Ayeyarwady pagoda, which features two giant pythons Ferry-wise, the IWT office (%21503), one For (slow) Internet access, try the com-
Bridge connected Magwe with its hilly vil- that get fed ‘buffalo milk’ daily. The largest block towards the river from the market’s puter software store (Madaw Rd; per hr K1000), a
lage neighbour of Minbu on the river’s west mound is named Thu Sei Ta, the second- north side, isn’t a lot of help. It can’t sell couple of blocks north of Aung San.
bank. largest Nanda, for the mythical Dragon tickets or even quote foreigner prices, but
King’s daughter and son, respectively. On can confirm ever-changing boat times or Sights
Information the winding road north from Minbu are a dock location. At research time, the boat SHWESANDAW PAYA & AROUND
At the time of research, a telephone centre couple of eateries overlooking the river. to Mandalay (four days) via Bagan left at eráz®et;'.ur;"
(and no one else apparently) could make Depending on water levels, islands appear 9am on Monday and Saturday, and for Pyay Set on top a hill in the centre, the stunning
international calls for US$5 per minute to in the river. Consider hiring a boat for a day (30 to 35 hours) at 7am on Tuesday and Shwesandaw paya (and the surrounding pa-
Europe and US$6 to North America; it’s ‘at the beach’ on an isolated one, or to mingle Thursday. The ferry presently docks a few godas and monasteries) is not only Pyay’s
a long block east of the market. The main with nomadic fishers who live there till the blocks west of the market, just south of the biggest point of interest, but one of the
hospital is a couple of more blocks east. water rises. Monalizar 2 River View restaurant. country’s biggest Buddhist pilgrimage sites.
Just over 1m taller than the main zedi at
BAGAN &
Getting Around
BAGAN &
Sights Sleeping Yangon’s Shwedagon – call it Shwe-D –
Magwe’s chief pagoda, the 1929 Mya Tha Lun Rolex Guest House (%23536; cnr Mya Than Lun Rd & A trishaw ride between the bus station and the Shwesandaw stupa follows the classic
Paya, 2km north of the bridge, features a Ayeyarwady Bridge; s/d US$8/15; a) The more basic hotels is about K500. It’s slightly uphill on Bamar design seen at Bagan’s Shwezigon
gilded stupa and occupies a hilltop site with of the two licensed accommodation options the way from the centre; plan on 30 min- (p309).
great river views. in Magwe, the Rolex is within walking dis- utes. Motorcycle-taxis are usually more ex- Legend goes that it was built by a couple
Just across the river, about the same distance of the market and river, and has a pensive; you can rent one to see Dragon of merchants (with the king’s help) in 589
tance north of the bridge, is Minbu and the more eager-to-please staff. Oldish but clean Lake and Mya Tha Lun Paya for about BC, and that the golden zedi houses four
fun Nga Ka Pwe Taung (Dragon Lake), a burp- rooms include desk, twin or double beds, K3000 or K3500. strands of the Buddha’s hair (the Golden
ing pool of butane gas and mud that has and bathroom with cold shower. Hair Relics).
(over the years) built a few acres of lunar- Sein San Hotel (%23499; 235 17th St; r US$15; a) PYAY (PROME) Atop the zedi are two hti (umbrellalike
like terrain with bubbling pools atop four This is a bright complex of spick-and-span ¨p–' pinnacles), unusual for Myanmar. The
odd mounds. The sludge isn’t hot; if your rooms – with skinny mattresses – a few long %053 lower, bigger one dates from Pyay’s days
toes slip in, wash them off below at a small blocks east of the bridge. This quiet, stupa-studded Ayeyarwady town, as a Mon city. The higher, smaller one was
294km north of Yangon, is at the cross- added by Alaungpaya as a symbol of peace
MAGWE 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles Eating roads for bumpy bus rides west to Ngapali between the Burmese and Mon, after bru-
Monalizar 2 River View (dishes K500-1500; h7am- Beach, and less bumpy bus rides north to tally capturing the city in 1754.
A To Mya Tha B 10pm) On the river, just south of the bridge, Bagan. Over the years it’s practically seen In the southwest corner of the complex,
Lun Paya (1.5km)
To Bagan
(165km)
this Chinese and Myanmar restaurant (and more archaeologists than travellers, due to the Sacred Tooth Hall is said to house an
lively beer station) is clearly Magwe’s hot the much-excavated ancient Pyu capital of original tooth from the Buddha. It’s in the
1 spot. As the sun dips across the river, lo- Thayekhittaya (p286), 8km east. But Pyay golden bell (locked with padlock) behind
Approximate Scale
cals (mostly guys) hit the jars of beer (big can fill a good day, with the ruins, hilltop pa- the glass. The locks come off once a year for
pitchers are K1600) as a crew of 15 start up godas (particularly the famous, lit-at-night the November full-moon festivities.
Lan
yau
ng the 6pm music/dance show that some lo- Shwesandaw Paya), and a spectacled Buddha The panoramic views from the pagoda
To Minbu (1km); ang
Nga Ka Pwe Yen cals watch through the open doors from south of town (p286). Locals alternate the are pretty great too. To the east, you’ll see
Market
Taung (3km) Sein San
Hotel the outside. town’s pronunciation between ‘pyay’ and the Sehtatgyi Paya (Big Ten Storey), a giant
Magwe
Police
Station Sein Ya Padauk Myaing There are several simple restaurants on ‘pyi’. The Brits, apparently, couldn’t deal (maybe not 10 storeys though) seated Bud-
Bridge
Ὀ
Thu Restaurant
Rolex
Guest House
the street a block east of the bridge rounda- with the confusion so called it Prome. dha watching over the Shwesandaw eye-
To Highway bout. One is the (rather overpriced) Sein The current town site became an impor- to-eye.
2 Bus Station
Ya Thu (dishes K1000-1500), which has portable tant trading centre during the Bagan era. The smaller gold stupa on the highest
(500m)
Monalizar 2
River View
Market
Telephone Hospital Rd privacy walls plastered with beer ads and a The Mon controlled it when Burmese king hill southeast of Shwesandaw is the Wun-
IWT Office Centre
Hospital
lone ‘Myanmar Cares’ sticker. Alaungpaya conquered it in 1754. Pyay chataung Paya (Apology Mountain Pagoda),
Stran
boomed, along with the British Irrawaddy where people can say ‘sorry’ for misdeeds.
d Rd
Getting There & Away Flotilla Company in the 1890s. Today it’s They get the best view of Shwesandaw and
Myo
Civic
Park Magwe’s highway bus station is about 2.5km an important cargo town still, set at a trans- mountains across the river while they’re at
ma
Ay
Stadium
east of the central market. A minibus con- shipment point between northern and it. You can reach it via Sethatgyi Rd, east of
ey
St
Rd
ar
Stadium
wa
nects Magwe with Nyaung U (K2500, four to southern Myanmar. the Shwesandaw.
yd
five hours), leaving at 6am from Nyaung U, You can take an elevator up to the Shwe-
3 or at 4.30am, 6am or 7.30am from Magwe. Orientation & Information sandaw platform from the northwest side,
Ri
A 9am bus leaves for Pyay (K1600, seven Pyay’s centre spills along the streets around but it’s not really that big of a hike up. The
ve
r
or eight hours), and 5pm buses head out the gold Aung San statue, at the corner of northern stairway is lined with shops.
To Pyay for Mandalay (K3000, 12 or 13 hours) and the Pyay–Yangon Rd and Bogyoke Rd. The There’s a K200 fee for ‘small cameras’,
(235km)
Yangon (K3500, 11 or 12 hours). bus station is 2km east. K500 for ‘big cameras’ or video cameras.
Pyay
284 B A G A N T O PYAY • • P y a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY • • P y a y 285
PYAY 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles MIDRANGE petrol availability) depart weekly for Yangon
Pyay’s nicest sleeping, by far, comes at Min- (deck/cabin US$8/18, two or three days) on
A B C D galar Garden Resort (%25518; mgresort.pyay@mpt Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. North-
To Magwe (249km);
Bagan (398km)
INFORMATION SLEEPING mail.net.mm; s US$30-36, d US$36-42; a), a quiet ward ferries leave for Mandalay (US$12/24,
Computer Software Store.............1 B1 Aung Gabar Guest House.............4 B2
Myat Lodging House...................5 A2 bungalow resort about 5km east of the about seven days) via Bagan two or three
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Smile Motel..................................6 B2 centre (near the Pyagyi stupa). Seventeen times weekly too.
t St
Sehtatgyi Paya.............................2 C3
St
Wunchataung Paya..................... 3 D3 EATING standard bungalows, 13 Japanese-style bun-
Merchan
Strand Rd
Diamond Luck Restaurant............7 A3 galows and five ‘European’ superior bun- BUS & TRUCK
Bazaar
ὈὈ
Pyay Hline Ayay Restaurant..................8 A2
Traditional
Hospital 1 Indian Food..................................9 B2 galows are set around a network of nice Pyay is located at the junction between
Swe N
wee P To Yangon
Pyay Star Restaurant..................10 B2 artificial ponds and a big lake. It’s quite Yangon, Bagan and Thandwe (for Nga-
ayar S
t 9 comfy livin’ (for Pyay at least) – enough to pali Beach). The highway bus station, 2km
Mosque 5 TRANSPORT
Bus Stop (Thandwe-Yangon attract a passing tour group or two. Break- east of the centre (just off Bogyoke Rd),
w Rd
Tat St Buses)....................................11 D2
fast is served in the lakeside gazebos; the sends frequent buses to Yangon (K1550, six
Mada
IWT Office.................................12 A3
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
Post Office
Kan St
lake’s slurping carp fish will clamour for hours) via one of the nation’s smoothest
2 Train
your crumbs. It’s pretty remote if you’re two-lane roads. Half a dozen companies
Fire Station d
e R To Bus Station (2km);
Park Brigade yok without wheels. A taxi from the centre is make the trip throughout the day, includ-
Bog Payagyi Paya (3.5km);
Aung San 6 Mingalar Garden
8 Statue
11
Resort (4km); about K1500, a trishaw (long ride) about ing Asia Express (%21759), New Generation,
Bogyoke Rd Thayekhittaya
4 Set (8km) K1000. Yoma and Sun Moon.
Ayeyarw
10 hat
g yi
Tikyutson St
Rd There are no direct buses north to Bagan

Eating & Drinking from Pyay. At research time, a daily 9.30am
ady
2
7 Pyay Star Restaurant (cnr Bogyoke Rd & Pyay–Yangon bus headed north to Magwe (K1800, seven
Shwesandaw Rd; dishes around K1000) Overlooking the statue, or eight hours) where you could change
River
Paya 3
Stran
12
Elevators is a buzzing, quite appealing two-floor beer buses to Bagan, usually the next day.
d Rd
Pyay-Y
3 hall with pretty good Chinese food. To the Direct buses from Yangon to Thandwe
south are several more restaurants, includ- (Ngapali Beach) do not stop at the Pyay bus
ango
ing the more family-oriented Diamond Luck station, instead letting off passengers a cou-
n Rd
To Southern Star
Restaurant (750m);
Nawade Bridge (1km)
To Shwedaung (14km);
Yangon (294km)
Restaurant, two blocks south. ple of blocks east of the Shwesandaw Paya
The Strand takes in the river and is home on Bogyoke Rd. Many buses at the station
to a few restaurants that double as music leave across the Nawade Bridge to Taung-
PAYAGYI PAYA Pyay ‘action’. The extra US$2 for rooms gets halls in the evening. Just west of the Aung gok (K2500 to K4000, eight or nine hours)
.ur;"äkI" you private bathroom, hot water and satellite San statue, Hline Ayay (Strand Rd; dishes veg K800, fish around 6pm. From Taunggok you can catch
This towering pagoda stands on the road to TV. The shared bathrooms are spotless too. & meat K1200-2500; h7am-11pm) shows its years a bus or pick-up to Thandwe, or catch the
Thayekhittaya, about 1.5km east of the bus There’s a lone double with fan and shared (and the bathroom has lots of mosquitos boat north to Sittwe.
station; it served as one of the four corners bathroom for US$8. The English-speaking and is dark and damp), but the (mostly Chi- Two daily buses head to Mandalay (K4550,
that bounded that ancient town. Its breast- family that runs the Myat (Burmese for nese) food is good. A few seats are on the 13 hours) around 4pm. You can stop off at
like structure is slightly swollen, with some ‘royal’) give out a Pyay map. Cell-like rooms open deck; all have river views. The music Meiktila for transfers to Inle Lake.
vegetation growing out of cracks in the ex- on the ground floor are for locals only. starts at 7pm. A giant cargo-style passenger truck goes
posed bricks. Three terraces encircle it from Aung Gabar Guesthouse (%21400; 1462 Bogyoke About a kilometre south, Southern Star to Pathein (K4000, 13 or more hours) on
its base; ‘ladies’ are not allowed on the upper Rd; s/d US$3/6) Pyay’s best dirt-cheap spot isn’t Restaurant is a newer open-air riverside eat- a bumpy road at 8.30am. You’re far bet-
one. The modern hti is lit up at night. bad. Nice people run it (one reader called ery that sells pitchers of beer (K1600). After ter off going from Yangon. See p292 for a
Its history is linked with the nearby Thay- them ‘Myanmar’s Cheech and Chong’). Small sunset, food is less of a draw than the 7pm backroads link with Taungoo.
ekhittaya and most likely dates from the 5th- rooms with shared bathroom are basic (con- singers (female) playing for the drinking
or 6th-century AD. Nearby stand a couple crete floors, fan) but clean (and lighter than posse (mostly male). TRAIN
of lofty teak trees, safe from woodcutters’ the dark hall suggests). Bogyoke Aung San A few grubbier spots are in the streets The train service is of little use to travellers,
axes as they occupy sacred ground. seems to like it; the statue of him on horse- north of Aung San, such as the rather lonely but a lone daily train connects Pyay with
back outside looks right at it. The guesthouse Indian Food Stall (Swe Nwee Payar St). Yangon in nearly 12 hours.
Sleeping was planning to add an air-conditioned room
All of the following options include break- with private bathroom upstairs at research Getting There & Away Getting Around
fast in the price. time. BOAT Trishaws and blue bed-back taxis are the
Smile Motel (% 22523; 10-11 Bogyoke Rd; s/d Routes along the Ayeyarwady start/stop in main ways of getting around. A trishaw ride
BUDGET US$13/15; a) A block up Bogyoke Rd from Pyay, heading either north or south. Few to/from the bus station is around K1000,
Myat Lodging House (%21361; 222 Bazaar St; s US$8-10, Aung San, this new motel has typical rooms foreigners use either service. K1500 by blue taxi. Some locals may hesitate
d US$10-12, tr US$16-18; a) This small backstreet with TV and hot-water showers attached. The IWT office (%24503; the Strand; h9am-5pm in renting a bicycle; apparently a foreigner
guesthouse has well-loved, but simple rooms Rooms in front catch some traffic noise, but Mon-Fri) is helpful on ever-changing times. ‘got lost in a rice field’ at Thayekhittaya in
(green carpet, writing desks) a block from the the place seems happy enough. Presently two or three ferries (depending on recent years.
286 B A G A N T O PYAY • • A r o u n d P y a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • M e i k t i l a 287
AROUND PYAY Pyu sights, the least obviously renovated, Spectacles were first added to the image
Thayekhittaya
serextËr;
and the prototype of many Myanmar pa-
godas. You can walk up the three low-lying
during the Konbaung era, when a nobleman
offered them to the temple in an attempt to
MEIKTILA TO TAUNGOO
About 8km east of the Aung San statue in terraces. stimulate local faith through curiosity. Word This popular north–south route following
the neighbouring village of Hmawza, this A couple of hundred metres northeast is soon spread that the bespectacled Buddha the Yangon–Mandalay Hwy – some call it
ancient site (admission US$4; h8am-5pm) – known the smaller cube-shaped Bebe Paya, with a had the power to cure all ills, especially af- the ‘high road’, though it runs west of the
to Pali-Sanskrit scholars as Sri Ksetra (Fabu- cylindrical top and a few Buddha images flictions linked to the eyes. The first pair of Shan Hills – is often taken on overnight
lous City) – is an enormous Pyu city that inside. Just north is the squat Lamyethna Paya, spectacles was stolen at an early stage, and a buses. Meiktila, nearly three-quarters of the
ruled in the area from the 5th to 9th centu- with a visible iron frame keeping it together. second pair was made and enshrined inside way to Mandalay from Yangon, is a gateway
ries AD. Local legend links its origin to the Inside four original Buddha reliefs (a bit the image to protect it from thieves. between the ‘big four’: Yangon, Mandalay,
mythical King Duttabaung, who supposedly cracked, some faces missing) are visible. On An English officer stationed in Pyay dur- Inle Lake and Bagan.
worked with ogres and other supernatural either side of the roads around here, look ing the colonial era had a third pair fitted
creatures to build the ‘magical city’ in 443 out for long ruts in the ground, made from over the Buddha’s eyes after his wife suf- MEIKTILA
BAGAN &
miqIÏl;
BAGAN &
BC. The earliest Pali inscriptions found here old canals. fered from eye trouble and the abbot sug-
date to the 5th or 6th centuries. A couple of hundred metres to the north gested such a donation. Naturally, as the %064
Seeing it means taking a three- or four- is a fork in the road; to the right (north) is story goes, she was cured. (This pair is now For many travellers with noses pressed
hour ox-cart loop to spaced-out temples a tin-roofed cemetery; to the left (west), on in a small shrine to the right of the image.) It against bus-window glass, Meiktila is a cross-
(most just outside its oval city walls). It the way to ‘Thaungpye Mound’, is the bet- requires nine monks to remove the present roads between Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and
can’t rival Bagan in terms of majesty, but ter (but bumpier) way back to the museum. glasses for their fortnightly cleaning. Inle Lake first, and a town second. It’s also
lack of tourists and real peeks into local After 1km, you’ll pass by the old city gate One block south of the pagoda is a grand an important and prosperous trade centre
farming communities are serious bonuses. along the overgrown trail, and then 2km ol’ 1925 English home; another ’20s beaut is that sees a lot of locals in uniform, as several
Little is known about the Pyu; one useful on, through a booming farming village of two blocks south and two blocks east. air-force bases are located north and south
book is The Ancient Pyu of Burma by Janice thatch huts, with piles of radishes and other Another famous pagoda in town, south of town.
Stargardt. produce. Towards the north end of the vil- of Shwemyetman, is the Shwenattaung Paya Legend goes that King Anawrahta, founder
lage is the East Zegu Paya, a small four-sided (Golden Spirit Mountain), which report- of Bagan, had a pond here broadened to the
SIGHTS temple with overgrown walls and (usually) edly dates back to the Thayekhittaya era. current lake that looms west of town; when
Visitors usually start at the small museum, locked doors. It’s off the main road, but A large paya pwe (pagoda festival) is held he asked someone to see if it went to Mt
with a posted map of the area and a collec- worth seeing for the walk past fields and here each year on the full moon of Tabaung Popa, the report came back, ‘Lord, it doesn’t
tion of artefacts from excavations, includ- farmers to reach it. (February/March). go that far’ (‘Meiktila’ is an abbreviation of
ing royal funerary urns; a dvarapala (gate To get here, you can hop on a pick-up the wordy bad-news report).
guardian); statues of the Hindu deities Tara GETTING THERE & AWAY headed towards Yangon, which leave fre- In March 1945, the British surprised the
Devi, Vishnu and Lakshmi; several 6th- The turn-off here is a few kilometres east of quently from the Pyay bus station and pass Japanese based here and killed 20,000 Japa-
century Buddha images; and silver coins Payagyi Paya. A return blue taxi should cost by the Aung San statue before hitting the nese soldiers over the next few months in
minted in the kingdom. From here, you about K4000 or K5000. No direct pick-up highway. an important WWII loss for the Japanese.
can arrange an ox cart for K3000, really the connects the centre with the site. You could Much of the city was flattened. The trend has
only way to make the 12km loop around the take one to the bus station, then hop on Akauk Taung continued, sadly, with fires. Town-engulfing
handful of sites. Walking is possible, but another east-bound one to near the site. aek;k'et;=' fires devastated the city in 1974 and 1991.
it’s difficult to find your way without aid. Hmawza has a train station, but local Carved into cliffs overlooking the Ayeyar- In 2003 some of the centre was destroyed
Bicycles aren’t permitted. trains supposedly were off limits to foreign- wady, about 30km downstream from Pyay, (evidenced by burned-out buildings facing
Behind the museum to the south, the road ers at research time. are dozens of Buddha images at Akauk the Grand Cinema). One local warned, ‘We
soon follows the remains of the old palace Taung (Tax Mountain). It’s named for the have a fire every year. Better get fire insur-
walls; ox-cart drivers – at a speed that ebbs Shwedaung crafty toll-takers from the mid-19th cen- ance if you’re planning to stay.’
and flows to the mood of the ox – make eráet;=' tury, who spent the hours between taxing
a counterclockwise loop of the following This small town about 14km south of Pyay, boats by carving reclining and meditating Information
sites. via the road to Yangon, contains the famous Buddhas in the steep cliffside. When classes aren’t being held you can ac-
After 4km or so, the road passes Rahanta Shwemyetman Paya (Paya of the Golden Spec- To get there, you’ll need to taxi across cess the Internet at KMD Computer Centre (per
Gate, where fragments of the overgrown tacles), a reference to the large, white-faced the Ayeyarwady to Htongo village, about 90 hr K700; h9am-10pm).
brick gate run alongside the dirt road. Im- sitting Buddha inside the main shrine. The minutes by road from Pyay, then hire a boat
mediately south is the Rahanta cave temple, a Buddha wears a gargantuan set of eyeglasses (about K5000) for the 45-minute look. To do Sights
small, quite rebuilt temple with eight Bud- with gold-plated rims. Coming south from so, you must bring a copy of your passport or Lake Meiktila is the town’s premier attrac-
dha images lined along the south wall. Pyay, the turn-off for Shwemyetman is lo- visa to show the strict immigration officers. tion. Though there are no boating options,
About 2km south, the Bawbawgyi Paya is cated on the right-hand side of the road; For some visitors, it’s too much travel for you can cycle around it. From the bridge
Thayekhittaya’s most impressive site: a 46m a small green-and-white sign in English minimal payoff. A return taxi to Htongo north of the centre, a dirt path leads away
cylindrical stupa with a slightly banged-up reads ‘Shwemyethman Buddha Image – 1 from Pyay (sometimes with Shwedaung from the road; it starts just past the Antaka
golden hti on its top. It’s among the oldest Furlong’. thrown in) is about K20,000 to K25,000. Yele Paya, a small island/pagoda reached
Meiktila
288 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • M e i k t i l a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • P y i n m a n a 289
MEIKTILA
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles the lake is occupied by the military. Ask at Getting There & Away leafy, almost tropical place with a street-
the village for the best way back to Meiktila, BUS spilling market in the walkable centre spiced
A B or turn back. Express buses zooming between Yangon and with mosques, pagodas and the small Shan
INFORMATION Mandalay stop on the road east of the clock Lake – a welcome change if you’re arriv-
KMD Computer Centre................1 A4
Sleeping tower (and not at the local bus station), ing from the dusty ‘dry zone’ to the north.
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Honey Hotel (%21588; Pan Chan St; s US$5-10, d and along this road you’ll find half a dozen There’s little of historic interest, and not
Antaka Yele Paya.........................2 A4
Shwe Kyaung...............................3 A3 US$8-15; a) Right on the lake in town, this ticket-sales shops. Air-conditioned buses much to do, but it’s another great candidate
friendly lemon-coloured converted man- bound for Mandalay (K1500, four hours) for a ‘real town’ to explore around. Coconut
SLEEPING
Honey Hotel.................................4 B4 sion sees a fair share of travellers stopping leave around 9am; for Yangon (K4500, 10 to palms are planted along the Ngalaik River,
off. The free breakfast is served in a covered 12 hours) at 7pm or so. There’s also an ex- passing through the town’s north side. You
EATING
gazebo overlooking the water. All 14 rooms press bus for Pyay (K4300, 12 to 14 hours) can see the Shan Yoma and Aleh Yoma
Honey Restaurant........................5 A4
To Myingyan
(95km)
Kan Thar Yar................................6 A4
Shwe Ohn Pin..............................7 B4
are clean and comfy. Cheaper rooms have at 5pm. (Shan and Aleh mountain ranges) to the east
fan, cold shower and squat toilet; the higher- The ‘ordinary’ bus station is just east of and west.
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
DRINKING
Gold Rain Tea Center...................8 A4
priced ones have hot water, sit-down toilet the Htee Thone Sint Paya, north of the clock Traditionally there have been more pro-
2 and air-con (and some of these rooms are tower. Here you can catch local buses for paganda signs here, erected to scare off vis-
TRANSPORT
Bus Ticket Stands.........................9 A3
h.u.g.e). Room C-1 is a stand-alone bunga- Mandalay every 30 minutes or so, as well as iting undercover rebels. Insurgent territory,
Pick-Ups to Myingyan................10 A2 low by the water. pick-ups (K2000). technically, begins just 30km east.
10 Bus
Station
Wunzin Hotel (%21848; 49A Than Lwin Rd; r econ-
To Mandalay
Htee Thone
Sint Paya
(154km) omy US$6, standard from US$30; a) This former PICK-UP & TAXI Sleeping
government-run hotel on the north bank From the bus station, pick-ups for Taung- Phoenix Hotel (%21646; 18 Boletyar Rd; s US$7-18, d
9
of the lake is showing its years. All but the gyi (K1200) leave regularly; three morning US$12-24; a) is a boxy, four-storey place, a
Clock
Tower
economy rooms come with air-condition. buses (K2500) go from 6am to 9am. couple of blocks northeast of the market,
3
Though under private (and quite chatty) Three daily pick-up trucks for Nyaung U and was the only place in town licensed for
3 management, the hotel does still give off a (K3500) go in the afternoon; about six go to foreigners at research time. All rooms have
Approximate Scale
Market
rather official air. Biking groups stop here Kyaukpadaung (K1200). Pick-ups south to private bathroom with cold water and air-
Train
Station
often. Pyinmana (K1000/3000 for the back/front con. The cheaper rooms are on the ground
seat, four to six hours) leave regularly. floor, where the lobby TV can disturb
To Wunzin Hotel (250m);
Eating & Drinking Pick-ups for Myingyan (K1000, 2½ hours) winks till midnight; superior rooms upstairs
British Colonial Diplomat
To Taunggyi
(190km);
Kan Thar Yar (dishes K800-2000) At the best spot leave regularly from the main road in front have TV.
House (250m);
Nyaung U (146km) Grand Yangon
(554km) in town, facing the Antaka Yele Paya on of the Htee Thone Sint Paya.
Cinema
the lake and within walking distance of the From the bus station, you can hire sa- Eating
1 8 centre, this open-air restaurant (with tables loon taxis for Mandalay (about K35,000), Near the bus station are a number of places
4 2
7
at the edge of the water) is focused on beer Bagan (about K30,000) and Taunggyi (about where you can eat.
5
sales (or the staff singing Myanmar rock K50,000). Yan Naing Restaurant (%21369; 1813 Bo Tauk
Lake 4 karaoke), but the food’s not bad. Lots of Htain St; dishes from K1000; h7am-11pm), across the
6
Meiktila guys congregate here. Most families prefer TRAIN highway, and a couple of hundred metres
nearby Honey Restaurant (same owners as There’s a small train station in town, catch- uphill, has friendly staff members who can
hotel); it faces the water, but all seating is ing slow trains heading east-west. A more help with area information and offer Eng-
by a wooden pier in the lake and lit up inside. useful station is in Thazi, about 25km east, lish menus and tasty rice dishes.
at night. Shwe Ohn Pin (dishes K800-2000; h7am-10pm) at the crossroads of the Yangon, Mandalay Golden View Tea & Cold, on the eastern
About 250m south of the bridge, the dark This simple tiled restaurant, located on and Taunggyi lines. end of Shan Lake, is a nice spot for sunset
building to the east of the Wunzin Hotel (its the Mandalay–Yangon road in the centre, sipping.
economy rooms actually) was once a British hands you an English menu for its Chinese Getting Around A couple of other nice choices are on Bog-
colonial diplomat house, and later was a fierce and Myanmar dishes. The curd curry with Horse cart is the chief mode of getting yoke St, a couple of blocks northwest of the
interrogation centre used by the Japanese in rice (K1000) comes with big hunks of hlan around town north of the clock tower, blue market.
WWII. (Supposedly Aung San Suu Kyi and no kei (Indian-style cheese) mixed with taxi to the south. A ride from the bus sta-
Michael Aris honeymooned here.) cauliflower and okra in a thick sauce. tion to Honey Hotel is around K800 by Getting There & Away
Near the west end of the lake, Shwe Kyaung Gold Rain Tea Center (tea K100) The combo of horse, K1000 by blue taxi. You can rent a The bus station, near a monument of a
is a walled monastery on the inland side tree shade, high-up green tarpaulins, guys bike from Honey Hotel for K500 per day. log-pushing elephant, is on the highway,
of the road with Japanese signs leading in air-force uniforms (and some civilians) 1km west of central Shan Lake. It’s a short
to a WWII monument that British and Japa- gives this central, always-busy teashop a PYINMANA trishaw ride to the lake or hotels in town.
nese survivors put up in 1972. Monks will bunker feel. But not in a bad way. pYw'"mn;" Several good-looking (but without air-
show you around. Just past, a picturesque Around Gold Rain are several snack ven- %067 con) buses leave for Yangon (K2400, eight
path leads between the lake and (usually) dors, certainly Meiktila’s liveliest spots on Coming from Yangon, Pyinmana is the first hours) at 6.30pm and 8pm. Buses to Man-
flooded rice fields. Much of the east side of most nights. major town in Mandalay Division. It is a dalay (K2700, eight hours) leave at 9am.
290 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • Ta u n g o o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • Ta u n g o o 291
Ask at Yan Naing about catching an ex- Mandalay-style sitting Buddha, given to trip, or spending the night at a camp ‘re- ever here: almost two dozen small plates
press, air-conditioned bus going between the paya in 1912 by a retired civil servant sort’, or even in one of the villages. with every variety of sticky rice, samosas,
Yangon and Mandalay. A local bus leaves who donated his body weight in bronze and It’s cheaper to book a trip to a camp sweets and exotic fruits. There are three sep-
for Magwe at 4am. silver for the casting of the image. He died out of Taungoo than Yangon. Ask for Dr arate teak homes, all with wide porches and
You can also get a pick-up heading north three years after the casting at age 72; his Chan Aye of the Myanmar Beauty Guest House gorgeous views of surrounding rice pad-
to Meiktila (K1000, four to six hours). ashes are interred behind the image. ([email protected]), who can arrange a dies, palm trees and mountains. The room
Trains chugging between Yangon and Another pavilion in the northwestern day-return trip for US$45/40 per person furnishings are also all in teak, some with
Mandalay stop in Bago, Taungoo, Pyinmana corner of the compound houses a garish for two/three or more people. The price in- four-poster beds, satellite TV and hot-water
and Thazi. From here it takes 7½ hours to reclining Buddha surrounded by devas (ce- cludes the necessary permits, return trans- showers. The nicest and largest rooms are
reach Yangon, and six to nine hours to reach lestial beings) and monastic disciples. Glass port, a walk into the forest, an elephant ride, the two on the 2nd floor of home number
Mandalay. cabinets along the wall display small, mostly a lunch of rice and curry, and plenty of bot- four. If arriving by public transport from
modern, religious objects and Buddhas tled water. Bamboo rafting and motorbiking Yangon, ask to be let off just after the bridge
TAUNGOO donated by the faithful. Among the other in the jungle can be added for an additional before town. It’s only a few minutes’ walk
BAGAN &
BAGAN &
et;='=š tazaung (shrines) is one that displays sculp- fee. Overnight trips with a stay in either down a dirt road on the right-hand side of
%054 tures of the seven Taungoo kings, a small Shwe Daung or Ngwe Daug, both Karen the highway.
Taungoo (often spelt Toungoo), once the Kuan Yin pavilion to placate the Chinese, a villages, cost US$125 per person for three or Hotel Amazing Kaytu (%21977; zayya@myanmar
centre of one of the most powerful post- nat shrine with images of Saraswati and her four people. The good doctor provides free .com.mm; 8th St Ohtkyauttan; s/d US$18/30; a) This
Bagan kingdoms, is today worth a stop less attendants, and a Shin Upagot shrine. medical service to villagers in the area. modern hotel is comfortable, especially its
for historic reasons and more for conven- A few travel agencies in Yangon book trips beds, and has well-furnished rooms and TV.
ience and comfort (and a beautiful guest- MYASIGON PAYA
for about US$100 a day, including Wood- It’s maybe the most upscale place in town,
house just outside town). The area is one ¨mc–'"g®u.ur;" land Travel (p89). but it doesn’t compare to the rustic chic of
of the few places where coffee is grown, Note: elephants work 6am to around the Myanmar Beauty Guest House.
and the only place in the country where the Though not as well known as Shwesandaw, 11am daily, later in the rainy and cool sea- Myanmar Beauty Guest House I (%23270, 23527;
antiquated steam engines are repaired. this is the most interesting of the three fa- son, so an early start is essential if you want 7/134 Bo Hmu Pho Kun St; r with fan/air-con US$5/8;a)
Virtually nothing visibly historic remains mous zedi in town. A brick pahto (hollow to see the elephants doing anything more To get here – the original Myanmar Beauty
to indicate its former 15th- to 16th-century shrine or temple) beneath the stupa features than dreaming of very attractive elephants. Guest House (also known as Myanma A-
glory. Today it’s simply a typical central My- glass mosaic arches, paintings of Taungoo Hla) – from the main road through Taun-
anmar town supported by the timber trade. kings and a huge, bronze-and-silver-faced OTHER SIGHTS goo, turn west before the Taungoo Baptist
Among Burmese, the town is most known sitting Buddha in royal attire. The image In spite of the fact that seven kings reigned Church onto Bo Hmu Pho Kun St. It’s one
for its bounteous areca (betel) palms. In My- is surrounded by planet Buddhas (Buddhas over Taungoo for a total of 155 years, all that’s block north of the main market. All rooms
anmar, when someone receives unexpected for specific planets, corresponding to the left of the secular kingdom known then as have mosquito netting on request, and an
good fortune they are likened to a betel- days of the week), an arrangement usually Kaytumadi are a few earthen ramparts and excellent Bamar-Western breakfast is served.
lover receiving a paid trip to Taungoo. reserved for stupas. Smaller Buddhas, some a moat on the western side of town. Nearby At the front of this compound is a clinic
Kayin State is less than 35km east, and of them old, are displayed in glass cases in Lay Kyaung Kandawgyi, the town’s ‘royal lake’, run by Dr Chan Aye – Dr Tin Thein and
another 65km or so further east is Kayah the same building. Opposite the large sitting features a few small islands topped with Dr Yee Yee Aye’s son – and his wife, Dr Yi
State. Karen and Kayah insurgents have image, against a couple of pillars, are two pavilions. Lay Mon.
been known to operate within these dis- Chinese bronze goddess statues, one sitting Follow the road west of the lake to reach The decaying, government-owned My-
tances. A dry-weather road continues east on an elephant, the other on a Fu dog. Kawmudaw Paya, said to be the oldest religious anma Thiri Hotel is well off the eastern
all the way to Loikaw, but any travel beyond A small museum (admission free; h9am-4pm) on site in Taungoo. The central pink-and-white, side of the main road towards the southern
the Sittoung (Sittang) River a few kilome- the grounds contains bronze images of Era- bell-shaped stupa is not that impressive. A end of town.
tres to the east of Taungoo still requires wan (the three-headed elephant who serves mirrored pillar marks the ‘earth-conquering’
special permission, which is virtually im- as Indra’s mount), a standing Buddha cap- spot from which Taungoo kings set off to Eating
possible to obtain. tured from Thailand by King Bayinnaung conquer other armies. Worshippers walk Private Home Restaurant (dishes K1200) This res-
and two British cannons dated 1897. clockwise around the pillar in the hope of taurant down a small dirt road off the main
Sights conquering their personal problems. highway is difficult to find, but the Chi-
SHWESANDAW PAYA ELEPHANT CAMPS nese and Thai dishes are tasty, especially the
eráz®et;'.ur;" Taungoo is the starting point for visits Sleeping soups, and meals are served in small out-
Situated in the centre of town, west of the to the nearby working elephant camps in a Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III & IV (%23270, door bungalows.
main road, this is Taungoo’s grandest pil- mountainous area of Karen villages and 23527; Pauk Hla Gyi St; [email protected]; Other recommendations for Bamar and
grimage spot. The central stupa, a standard- teakwood plantations. The Seinyay Forest r US$8-25; a) This place is reason enough to Chinese cuisine:
issue bell shape, is gilded and dates to 1597; Camp, once the most accessible, has since visit Taungoo. The guesthouse is owned by Tin Tin Aye Myanmar Restaurant Look for the red-
local legend says an earlier stupa on the closed and will be completely submerged two doctors (husband and wife), Dr Tin and-yellow Tin Tin Aye sign on the right side of the main
site was built centuries before and contains when the area dam project is completed. Thein and Dr Yee Yee Aye, who seem to de- road coming from Yangon.
sacred-hair relics. A pavilion on the western How far you get and how much you see light in conversing with international travel- Moekaungki Restaurant Around the corner from the
side of the stupa contains a 3.6m bronze, depends on whether you’re on a day-return lers. We had his most spectacular breakfast Myanmar Beauty Guest House I.
292 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O • • Ta u n g o o www.lonelyplanet.com
Happy Restaurant On the main road near the turn-off CAR

for the Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III & IV. Taungoo makes an great stopover if you’ve
hired a car. If you have your own vehicle and
At the night market that convenes next to are feeling adventurous, the 100km unpaved
the central market, vendors specialise in logging road from Oktwin (15km south of
chapatis and meat-stuffed palata (fried flat- Taungoo) to Pakkaung provides a unique
bread). shortcut to Pyay. For the remaining 39km
Win Sanda and Sein Taik, near Nansanda from Pakkaung to Pyay the road is sealed
Guest House (which doesn’t accept foreign- but not in good condition. This is a tiring, at
ers) at the corner of the market, are two least all-day trip; start early and bring at least
popular side-by-side teashops. One focuses one spare tyre, plus food and plenty of water.
on samosas, the other on paug-si (Chinese Dr Chan Aye (see p290) can make this trip
buns); they’re both open from 5.30am to with you in his Toyota Land Cruiser, includ-
BAGAN &
around 9pm. ing a one- or two-night stop in a village or

jungle camp along the way (US$180).
Getting There & Away Forget about travelling east to Loikaw.
AIR The narrow road beyond the Sittoung River
Myanma Airways has an office in town and is now in relatively good condition, but
has flights connecting Taungoo and Heho military checkpoints will undoubtedly turn
(US$35), which is close to Inle Lake, four you away and there are reports of bandits
days a week. in the mountains.
BUS TRAIN
Taungoo is considered a midway point The 15 Up or 16 Down (same train) and the
for road trips between Yangon, Mandalay, 17 Up or 18 Down (same train) are express
Kalaw and Taunggyi. Coming north from trains. These trains, which run between
Yangon or Bago or south from Mandalay, Yangon and Mandalay, all stop in Taungoo.
Thazi, Kalaw or Taunggyi, if you want a The 17 Up and 18 Down services are run by
seat on the most comfortable buses you’ll Dagon-Mann, a private company. Tickets
have to pay the full K6000 or so fare even for these trains aren’t sold in Taungoo but
though you’re hopping on/off at Taungoo. your guesthouse can make reservations.
Most of these services pass through Taun- In the northerly direction, the No 17 Up
goo between 6pm and 10pm. The seven-to- to Mandalay (upper class US$18) leaves
eight-hour bus to Kalaw arrives extremely Yangon around 8pm and arrives at Taun-
early in the morning. goo at around 3am; the No 15 Up departs at
Most buses to Taungoo stop at the Golden 11pm and arrives at 5am; and the No 7 Up
Myanmar Restaurant on the main road. A leaves at 8pm and gets to Taungoo around
few may also collect passengers near the 3am to 4am, and Mandalay around 11am.
central market. Step lively, as the train only stops in Taun-
Cheaper, but a lot less comfortable public goo for 10 minutes. Two other trains with
buses without air-con are available to Yan- much more civilised departure times (ordi-
gon (K1700) and Mandalay (K2000) around nary class only US$7) leave for Mandalay
6pm daily. These buses can be flagged down at 3pm and 10pm and reach Mandalay in
anywhere along the main road or at the about seven hours.
central market. Count on taking around 10 All of these trains stop in Thazi, where
hours to get to either city. See p123 for bus you can then connect to a train or bus to
departure times from Yangon. Kalaw, or a bus to Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake).
293
Temples of Bagan
Imagine all the medieval cathedrals of Europe sitting on Manhattan
island – and then some – and you start to get a sense of the ambition
of the Bagan kings, who built as many as 4400 temples over a 230-year
period on this riverside plain. Neglect, looting, earthquakes, erosion
and bat dung have done their part to undermine its majesty, but Bagan
(Pagan) still stands strong. Seeing it – for a couple of days or for a full
28-day visa’s worth – can make a trip. And you’ll only be skimming the
surface.
This section gives some background to Bagan’s birth, and information
on some of the highlights. For details of information, additional sights,
accommodation, eating and transport options, see p264. Sites discussed
in this chapter are shown on the map on p267.
HISTORY
The extraordinary religious fervour that resulted in this unique collection
of buildings lasted two-and-a-half centuries. Although human habitation Bagari Kings built almost
at Bagan dates back almost to the beginning of the Christian era, Bagan 20 temples a year in the
only entered its golden period with the conquest of Thaton in AD 1057. area over a period of
Just over 200 years later Bagan declined, and in 1287 was overrun by the 230 years.
Mongols of Kublai Khan. But what fantastic effort happened in those
years! Since the Mongol invasion, the sites have been deserted and barely
touched over the centuries.
Bagan: the Prequel

Originally, this bend in the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River was occupied
by a stable and thriving Pyu city-state, perhaps allied with Beikthano and
Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra) to the south as well as Hanlin to the northeast.
Excavations along the ruined city walls indicate that by 850 the city had
reached complex proportions. The name Bagan may in fact derive from
Pyugan, a name first written down by the Annamese of present-day
Vietnam in the mid-11th century as Pukam. In post-18th-century Bur-
mese parlance the name became Bagan, which was corrupted as Pagan
by the British.
READING UP ON BAGAN
Some of the following are available from vendors at some major temples, such as Ananda (p300),
and usually at the Ever Sky Information Service in Nyaung U (p269) or Old Bagan hotel stores.
Glimpses of Glorious Bagan is a 60-page paperback with (dated) colour photos and details of
most of the key temples (including some not covered in this section). It’s pretty thorough,
and you can pick it up around Bagan for a few thousand kyat.
Pagan: Art & Architecture of Old Burma, by Paul Strachan, is a more comprehensive, well-
researched art history of Bagan, in which everything from artefacts to buildings is divided
into the three stylistic periods. Vendors sell it for US$20 to US$25.
Inventory of Monuments at Bagan, by Pierre Pichard, is a massive seven-volume treatise on the
archaeology of Bagan, which provides schematic diagrams of many of the temples. Pichard
is an archaeologist from the École Française d’Extrême Orient (EFEO), who worked with the
Unesco effort in the early 1990s. At over US$160 per volume, this is for serious enthusiasts
only.
294 T E M P L E S O F B A G A N • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T E M P L E S O F B A G A N • • H i s t o r y 295
Glory Days
Bagan’s prime began with the Bamar King Anawrahta’s ascent to the BAGAN’S KINGS
throne in 1044. At this time, Myanmar was in a period of transition The kings who reigned over Bagan during its golden period and their major buildings:
from Hindu and Mahayana Buddhist beliefs to the Theravada Buddhist Anawrahta 1044-77 Shwesandaw Paya
beliefs that have since been characteristic of Myanmar. Manuha, the Sawlu 1077-84
Mon king of Thaton, sent a monk to convert Anawrahta; the latter met Kyanzittha (aka Sawlu) 1084-1113 Ananda Pahto, Shwezigon Paya
with such success that Anawrahta asked Manuha to give him a number Alaungsithu 1113-67 Thatbyinnyu, Shwegugyi
of sacred texts and important relics. Manuha, uncertain of the depths of Narathu 1167-70 Dhammayangyi Pahto
Anawrahta’s beliefs, refused the request. Anawrahta’s reply to this snub Naratheinkha 1170-73
was straightforward – he marched his army south, conquered Thaton Narapatisithu 1174-1211 Sulamani Pahto, Dhammayazika Paya
and carted everything worth carrying to Bagan – including 32 sets of the Nantaungmya (aka Htilominlo) 1211-34 Gawdawpalin Pahto, Mahabodhi Paya
After Bamar King Tripitaka (the classic Buddhist scriptures), the city’s monks and scholars Kyaswa 1234-50
Anawrahta conquered and, for good measure, King Manuha himself. Uzana 1250-55
the Mon kingdom of Immediately Anawrahta set about a great programme of building, Narathihapati 1255-87 Mingalazedi, Payathonzu
Thaton, he had 30,000 and some of the greatest Bagan edifices date from his reign. Among the
Mon prisoners of war better known monuments he constructed are the beautiful Shwezigon
brought back to Bagan. (Shwezigon Paya), considered a prototype for all later Burmese stupas; Bamar for supremacy over northern Myanmar. Whatever happened,
the Pitaka Taik (Scripture Library), built to house the Pitaka (scriptures) from the 14th to 18th centuries Bagan was considered a spooky region,
carried back from Thaton by 30 elephants; and the elegant and distinctive riddled with bandits and nat (guardian spirits). The Burmese only began
Shwesandaw Paya, built immediately after the conquest of Thaton. Thus moving back in some numbers after the British established a presence
began what the Burmese call the First Burmese Empire, which became a in the area.
major centre for Theravada Buddhism and a pilgrimage point for Bud- It’s hard to imagine Bagan as it once was because, like other Burmese
dhists throughout Southeast Asia. royal cities, only the major religious buildings were made of permanent
King Anawrahta’s successors, particularly Kyanzittha, Alaungsithu materials. The kings’ palaces were all constructed of wood, and even most
and Narapatisithu, continued scratching this phenomenal building itch, kyaung (monasteries) were partly or wholly wooden. So what remains is
although the construction work must have been nonstop throughout just a frail shadow of Bagan at its peak. Bagan scholar Paul
the period of Bagan’s glory. Pali inscriptions of the time called the city Strachan argues in Pagan:
Arimaddanapura (City of the Enemy Crusher) and Tambadipa (Copper 1975 Earthquake Art and Architecture of Old
Marco Polo described the Land). In 1975 Bagan was shaken by a powerful earthquake, registering 6.5 on Burma that the city was
towers of Bagan in his the Richter scale. Contrary to initial fears, this 1000-year-old site was not never abandoned at all.
famous 1298 chronicle Decline totally ruined. Many of the more important temples were badly damaged,
as being ‘covered with Historians disagree on what exactly happened to cause Bagan’s appar- but major reconstruction started almost immediately.
gold a good finger in ently rapid decline at the end of the 13th century. The popular Burmese Since renovation of these important religious monuments has been
thickness…one of the view is that millions of Mongols sent by Kublai Khan swept over the city, an ongoing project for many centuries, the old skills have not been lost
finest sights in the world’. ransacking and looting. A more thoughtful view holds that the threat of and many monuments were rebuilt using traditional means. Unesco’s
invasion from China threw the last powerful ruler of Bagan into a panic; recent restoration projects now support dozens of local artisans and,
after a great number of temples were torn down to build fortifications, although you certainly won’t see any modern construction equipment
the city was abandoned, in which case the Mongols merely took over an
already deserted city.
Evidence suggests Bagan may have continued as an important reli- BAGAN VOCABULARY
gious and cultural centre into the 14th century, after which its decay A few terms used frequently to describe Bagan sites or features:
can be blamed on the three-way struggle between the Shan, Mon and gu – cave temple
hti – umbrellalike decorated pinnacle atop stupa
Jataka – stories of Buddha’s past lives
BAGAN PERIODS kyaung – monastery
Most temples that you’ll come across during your exploration of Bagan are divided into these pahto – temple or shrine, with hollow interior (some with one entrance to a windowless vault; others with four
three periods: entrances and images around central cube)
Early period (c 850–1120) This period was influenced by Mon and late Pyu architecture, as seen in Pyay (p283), paya – means ‘holy one’; refers to pagodas, stupas, zedi or other Buddhist monuments, including statues
and is characterised by perforated windows and dimly lit interiors. shwe- – prefix meaning ‘gold’
Middle period (c 1100–70) Temples became bigger during this period and were better lit by broader windows, sikhara – Indian-style, corncoblike temple finial
with more of an eye to vertical proportions than horizontal lines. stupa – zedi; solid hemispherical or cylindrical cone
Late period (c 1170–1300) The late period saw more intricate pyramidical spires or adorning tile work added thein – ordination hall
to the buildings, with an increase of Indian influence, and (some say) a seeping in of Mahayana Buddhism what country you come from? – standard greeting
influence. zedi – stupa; solid hemispherical or cylindrical cone
296 T E M P L E S O F B A G A N • • H o w B i g i s B a g a n ? www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com O L D B A G A N • • G a w d a w p a l i n Pa h t o 297
in Bagan, modern techniques are being employed as well. For example,

Unesco engineers are reinforcing some of the monuments by inserting
iron beams in the masonry to preserve the structural integrity in case of
OLD BAGAN
an earthquake. pug®Dmui¾eh;='"
As for the hundreds of lesser monuments, anything that was likely This roughly counterclockwise circuit takes in temples within the old city
to fall off in an earthquake would have fallen off centuries ago. While it walls. From the Archaeological Museum (p273) or some Old Bagan hotels,
was quite evident which of the major temples were repaired, Bagan has you could loop through these sites on foot, if desired, in a 2km loop.
never looked like a huge building site. Some of the restoration, such as the
repairs to the Gawdawpalin Pahto, took until the early 1980s to complete. GAWDAWPALIN PAHTO
Other repairs continue. egòet;'plñ='puqiu"
Just north of the Archaeological Museum, on the road between Nyaung
Recent History U and New Bagan, Gawdawpalin is one of the largest and most impos-
The village that grew up in the middle of the walled area of ‘Old Bagan’ ing Bagan temples – at 60m, you can’t miss it. Built during the reign of
during the 1970s was moved to the middle of a peanut field several kilo- Narapatisithu and finished under Nantaungmya’s, it’s considered the During the 1890’s two
metres away just before the May 1990 elections. Old Bagan residents were crowning achievement of the Late period. Its name means ‘Platform to enterprising Germans
Myanmar authorities only given about a week’s notice by the government to move and rebuild which Homage is Paid’. The most recent homage was its heavy-duty re- removed plaques, statues
were so thorough erasing in the new location, known as New Bagan (Bagan Myothit). construction following terrific damage sustained in the 1975 earthquake and murals from Bagon.
all traces of the village The latest eyebrow-raising move was the start of the construction of (it stands near that quake’s epicentre). You can see many of these
that existed in Old Bagan an observation tower and upscale hotel (just southeast of Nyaung U) Inside, past a fair share of vendors, is a quite modern, active altar (tile at the Berlin Völkerkunde
that it’s now hard to tell that breaks the building code the government implemented. Though floors, donation boxes); along the four walls are 10 Buddha images and Museum or the Hamburg
that a village ever existed construction was on hold at research time, it is scheduled to dwarf all some barely visible murals. Stairs ascending through the walls to the top Ethnographical Museum.
here. temples. The same Yangon entrepreneur responsible was also building terrace are closed to visitors.
a reconstruction of the palace within the walls of Old Bagan. Equally
unsettling as the tower is the recently built, and way out of place, 19th- MIMALAUNG KYAUNG
century-style home of the huge Archaeological Museum (p273) in Old mI"mel;='ekY;='"
Bagan. A nice set of chinthe (half lion/half dragon mythical beasts) guards the
stairway leading up this small, square monastery platform, constructed
HOW BIG IS BAGAN? in 1174 by Narapatisithu. It’s about 200m south of Gawdawpalin, on the
Bagan’s big, but no-one really knows how many temples were built. other side of the road. In front of the monastery is a brick-and-stucco
Supposedly, by the end of the 13th century the official count of sites Tripitaka library next to a large acacia tree. Atop the steps, a tiered
was 4446. By 1901 surveys found 2157 monuments still standing and roof (with a newer gold-capped hti, an umbrellalike decorated pinnacle)
identifiable. A 1978 count – a few years after the disastrous earthquake – contains a large sitting Buddha. Archaeologists discovered an intricately
found 2230, a figure which doesn’t include brick mounds, which would carved 6cm votive tablet here that contained 78 sculpted figures.
make the total 4000.
The catch is that the number of temples keeps growing. With so many PAHTOTHAMYA
Buddhists looking to snare a little ‘merit’ to ensure an upgrade in the next puqiu"s;"mY;"
life, rich Yangon residents (including many government officials) build On the dirt road 150m east towards the dominating Thatbyinnyu, the
new stupas; apparently 300 new ones have gone up around Bagan in the Pahtothamya (or Thamya Pahto) was probably built during the reign of
first few years of this century. This leads many to shake their heads as they Kyanzittha around the turn of the 12th century, although it is popularly
look upon new, obviously modern temples staining one of the world’s held to be one of five temples built by the little known king Taunghthugyi
most impressive ancient cities, but many others enjoy seeing Bagan still (aka Sawrahan; 931–64). The interior of this single-storey building is dimly
breathing new air. lit, typical of the early type of Pyu-influenced temples, with their small,
perforated stone windows. In its prominent vertical superstructure and
reconstructed lotus-bud sikhara (corncoblike temple finial), however, the
WATCH THAT BAG! monument is clearly beginning to move forward from the Early period.
Every year many tourists, trying to hurry past others, inevitably scrape their backpack or oversized Often kids with a torch will point out the super painting remnants
camera bag against already-crumbling but priceless murals. Be sure not to add to the problem; along the interior passages, perhaps the earliest surviving murals in
it’s generally safe to leave your backpack outside. Bagan. Steps lead up to a roomy viewing platform.
The Department of Archaeology has closed off upper terraces of some of the more popular
temples, including Ananda and Sulamani, while outside investors have donated the money to NATHLAUNG KYAUNG
cover murals with clear glass. In the mid 1990s, Unesco worked with the government to preserve nt'elH;='ekY;='"
Bagan, though – apparently – frustration with government interference drove them out in 1996. Between Pahtothamya and Thatbyinnyu, this is the only Hindu temple
Of the US$10 fee collected from visitors to Bagan, apparently only half goes to the Department remaining in Bagan. The exterior of the stubby temple remains much
of Archaeology, which seems sincere in its efforts to preserve the sites. damaged from the 1975 earthquake. Only the main hall and superstruc-
ture stand.
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A sign dates it to the early 11th century. It’s also said to have been PITAKA TAIK
built in 931 by Taunghthugyi; if true, this was about a century before the pi$kt'tiuk'
southern school of Buddhism came to Bagan, following the conquest of Following the sacking of Thaton, King Anawrahta carted off some 30
Thaton. elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures and built this library (just north-
The temple is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. Gupta-style reliefs east of Shwegugyi) to house them in 1058. The square design follows
of the 10 Avatars were placed around the outside wall; seven of these the basic Early Bagan gu (cave temple) plan, perfect for the preserva-
survive. tion of light-sensitive palm-leaf scriptures. The old library is notable
The central square of brick supports the dome and crumbled sikhara, for the perforated stone windows, each carved from single stone slabs,
and once contained freestanding figures of Vishnu, as well as Vishnu and the plaster carvings on the roof, which are in imitation of Burmese
reliefs on each of the four sides. The statues were stolen by a German oil woodcarvings.
engineer in the 1890s, but the badly damaged brick-and-stucco reliefs
can still be seen. PALACE SITES
This temple’s name means ‘Shrine Confining Nat’, a reference to a At research time, construction of Anawrahta’s palace replica was un-
purported time when King Anawrahta is said to have confiscated all non- derway on the north side of the road to Nyaung U, a couple of hundred
Buddhist religious images – both indigenous Burmese nat and Hindu metres northeast of Shwegugyi. It’s likely to be open during your visit
devas (celestial beings) – and placed them in this shrine as part of an (possibly for an extra fee, as a Yangon entrepreneur is footing the bill).
effort to establish ‘pure’ Theravada Buddhism. The king eventually gave Just east, on the other side of the road, is the original site of Anawrahta’s
in to the cult and standardised the current roster of principal Burmese palace, currently closed off by barbed wire and under excavation by the
nat by placing 37 chosen images at Shwezigon Paya. The veracity of this Department of Archaeology.
account has never been confirmed, but most Bagan residents – in fact
virtually all Burmese – accept it as fact. THARABA GATE
srp:t®x:"
THATBYINNYU PAHTO The former eastern entrance to the walled city is 100m east of the origi-
sbºMupuqiu" nal palace site. The still-impressive Tharaba Gate (aka Sarabha Gate)
Named for ‘omniscience’, Bagan’s highest temple (about 150m east of squeezes the road to Nyaung U. The ruins are the best preserved remains
Nathlaung and 200m south of Shwegugyi) is built of two white-coloured of the 9th-century wall, and the only gate still standing. Traces of old
boxy storeys, each with three diminishing terraces rimmed with spires stucco can still be seen on the gateway.
and leading up to a gold-tipped sikhara, 63m up. Its monumental size The gate is guarded by highly revered brother and sister nat, the male
and verticality make it a classic example of Bagan’s Middle period – and (Lord Handsome) on the right, the female (Lady Golden Face) on the left.
neatly provide a chronological link between two nearby big cats, the In their human histories, the siblings died in a fire, so worshippers offer
Early-period Ananda and Late-period Gawdawpalin. Built in 1144 by the images flowers and water, rather than candles or incense.
Alaungsithu, its terraces are encircled by indentations for 539 Jataka. Just east, the road passes over the one-time wall-surrounding moat.
Plaques were never added, leading some scholars to surmise that the (There are several restaurants 200m east.)
monument was never consecrated.
The small ‘tally zedi’
(stupa) just northeast of
Visitors are barred from climbing Thatbyinnyu’s inner passages to the MAHABODHI PAYA
top terrace, which is supposedly an amazing network of passageways. mh;eb;/i.ur;"
the temple was built using
Most of the temple’s inside walls are whitewashed, but there are some Unlike any other Bagan temple, this monument, located on the north
one brick for every 10,000
original murals near the west entrance. side of the main road 350m west of the gate, is modelled after the fa- The Mahabodhi Paya
used in constructing the
The temple is located near the southeastern corner of the old city mous Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, which commemorates the features an unusual
main temple.
wall. A couple of hundred metres south, you can see a fragment of the spot where the Buddha attained enlightenment. Built during the reign pyramidal spire.
wall on either side of the road, where you can climb up on the brick of Nantaungmya in 1215, the spire is richly coated in niches enclosing
for a view. seated Buddha figures, rising from a square block. The stairway to the
top is closed to visitors.
SHWEGUGYI Inside is a modern makeover – with tile floor and carpet. The ruined
erágUäkI" buildings just north feature some original glazed painting fragments.
Built by Alaungsithu in 1131, this smaller but elegant pahto (temple or
shrine), 200m north of Thatbyinnyu, is an example of the Middle period, BUPAYA
a transition in architectural style from the dark and cloistered to the airy bU".ur;"
and light. Its name means ‘Great Golden Cave’, and its corncob sikhara Right on the bank of the Ayeyarwady (reached from the Nyaung U road,
is a scaled-down version of the one at Ananda (p300), while its reach about 200m east of the Mahabodhi Paya), this cylindrical Pyu-style stupa
marks a move towards verticality. is said to date further back than any Bagan temple. Locals claim it dates
Inside you’ll find fine stucco carvings, a teak Buddha and stone slabs (in to the 3rd century; most likely it was erected around the same time as the
Pali) that retell its history, including that it took just seven months to build. city walls (around 850). It’s named for bu (gourd). What’s seen now – a
Missing from the scripts are details of its builder’s demise – Alaungsithu’s gold stupa above a row of crenulated terraces leading down to the water –
son brought his sick father here in 1163 to smother him to death. is a complete reconstruction, however; the 1975 earthquake demolished
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replacements for figures destroyed by fire in the 1600s. All four have bodies
THE SUN’S FALLING! THE SUN’S FALLING! of solid teak, though guides may claim the southern image is made of a
Each dusk at Bagan can see a great sunset chase, with scurrying tourists carrying cameras up bronze alloy. Guides like to point out that if you stand by the donation box
pagoda stairways to watch the Bagan sprawl turn all shades of tangerine, lavender and rust. in front of the original southern Buddha, his face looks sad, while from a
Many leave once the sun dips behind the mountains, though colours only start their show at distance he tends to look mirthful.
that point. By all means do witness the scene, from different spots, short and tall. Some temples The western and eastern standing Buddha images are done in the later
teem with tourists, while hundreds of lesser-known ones (including dozens and dozens of good Konbaung, or Mandalay, style. If looked at from the right angle, the two
choices not in this section) stand empty. lions at the eastern side resemble an ogre. A small, nutlike sphere held
Yeah, but what’s ‘the best’ place to witness sunsets and sunrises? Well, Dhammayangyi Pahto between the thumb and middle finger of the east-facing image is said to
(p303) is the long-standing favourite at dusk; east-facing Mingalazedi (p304) at dawn. Near Bagan’s resemble a herbal pill, and may represent the Buddha offering dhamma
belly, Buledi (p302) is a newcomer ‘alternative’ favourite, while another belly-spot, Pyathada Paya (Buddhist teachings) as a cure for suffering. Both arms hang at the im-
(p304), has a sprawling viewing deck, sometimes empty. age’s sides with hands outstretched, a mudra (hand position) unknown
Some Bagan repeat-visitors insist it’s all a myth – that it’s is as good to watch from an un- to traditional Buddhist sculpture outside this temple. On the full moon of
named, two-storey temple as at Dhammayangyi. You decide. The west-facing Buddha features the abhaya mudra (the hands out- Pyatho (December/
stretched, in the gesture of no fear). At its feet sit two life-sized lacquer January), a huge paya
statues, said to represent King Kyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon pwe (paya festival)
the original. If you want to sit on the benches facing the water, please monk who initiated the king into Theravada Buddhism. Inside the west- attracts thousands to
don’t prop up your feet on the wall, as some travellers do. ern portico are two Buddha footprint symbols on pedestals. Ananda. Up to 1000
Off the road to the southeast is the Pebinkyaung Paya, a 12th-century The British built a brick museum nearby in 1904, now used as a stor- monks chant day and
pagoda built in a unique Sinhalese style. age facility. Around it stand a few ordination markers, inscribed stellae night during the three
and Buddha images. days of the festival.
NORTH PLAIN ANANDA OK KYAUNG

a;nNÌ;aut'ekY;='"
The bulk of Bagan temples are out ‘there’ – in the vast, ruin-filled plains Just west of Ananda’s northern entry, this small vihara (sanctuary or
between Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan. This broad area – skinny chapel) features some detailed 18th-century murals bursting with bright
on a map – runs between the Old Bagan walls and Nyaung U, and (mostly) red and green, showing details of everyday life from the Bagan period.
between the two roads that connect the two. Sights are ordered (more or In the southeast corner, you can see Portuguese traders engaged in
less) west to east. trade. Built in 1137, the temple’s name means ‘Ananda Brick Monastery’.
Usually the door is unlocked; ask at Ananda Pahto for the ‘keymaster’
ANANDA PAHTO if not.
a;nNÌ;puqiu"
If you see only a temple or two – and darn you for limiting yourself – make UPALI THEIN
it to Ananda, one of the finest, largest, best-preserved and most revered wp:lisim'
of all Bagan temples. The terraced temple, with a corncob golden hti tow- Just north of the Bagan–Nyaung U Rd, almost midway to Nyaung U, this
ering 52m high, features four more gilded spires at the ends of a raised mid-13th century ordination hall, houses some brightly painted frescoes
square platform. You’ll see it shimmering from all over the plain. depicting big scenes on the walls and ceilings from the late 17th or early
Like many paya around It’s roughly 450m east of Thatbyinnyu, 500m north of Shwesandaw 18th century. Sadly many pieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. The
Bagan, the Ananda Pahto and 1km northwest of Dhammayangyi Pahto. Most visitors access it – building, named for a well-known monk from the 13th century, is often
took a huge hit from the often through the sea of vendors – from the northern side. locked to protect the art. The roof battlements imitate Burmese wooden
1975 earthquake, but has Thought to have been built between 1090 and 1105 by King Kyanzit- architecture, and a small centre spire rises from the rooftop.
been totally restored. tha, this perfectly proportioned temple heralds the stylistic end of the
Early Bagan period and the beginning of the Middle period. In 1990, on HTILOMINLO PAHTO
its 900th anniversary, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder of qI"lium='"liupuqiu"
the temple exterior is whitewashed from time to time. Across the road from Upali Thein, this 46m-high temple was built by
The central square measures 53m along each side. Upper floors are King Nantaungmya in 1218. Nantaungmya erected the temple on this
closed to visitors. The entranceways make the structure a perfect Greek
cross; each entrance is crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the ter-
races are decorated with 554 glazed tiles showing Jataka scenes, thought THE ‘KEYMASTER’
to be derived from Mon texts. Huge carved teak doors separate interior During peak season, from October to April, many of the lesser temples have attendants hanging
halls from cross passages on all four sides. about to unlock the doors and maybe sell a postcard or two. Some do not, and the ‘keymaster’
Facing outward from the centre of the cube are four 9.5m standing needs to be tracked down. It’s usually not hard. Often someone with a ring full of keys lurks in
Buddha statues. Only the Bagan-style images facing north and south are the area. Ask any vendor and you’re likely to get the missing keys within a few minutes. A little
original; both display the dhammachakka mudra (a hand position sym- bit of ‘tea money’ is appreciated.
bolising the Buddha teaching his first sermon). The other two images are
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features a handful of well-worthy sites running west to east (towards the

TOP FIVE MURALS clearly visible Bagan Tower construction site, near Nyaung U).
Much of Bagan is also famous for the fabulous murals that are found on the walls inside. These
are our favourites. SHWESANDAW PAYA
Upali Thein (p301) Brightly painted frescoes from the late 17th or early 18th century. eráz®et;'.ur;"
Nandamannya (p309) Vaguely Chinese or Tibetan-looking murals. Bagan’s most famous ‘sunset pagoda’, the Shwesandaw is the graceful
Payathonzu (p308) Similar to the murals at Nandamannya. white pyramid-style pagoda with steps leading past five terraces to the
Ananda Ok Kyaung (p301) Paintings depict everday scenes from the Bagan period. circular stupa top; it’s located roughly midway between Thatbyinnyu and
Abeyadana (p306) Has figures of Bodhisattvas and Hindu deities. Dhammayangyi. Its roomy top terrace teems with camera-toting travel-
lers before sunset and offers a deserving full 360-degree look of Bagan.
If you go during the day, you’re likely to be alone.
Following his conquest of Thaton in 1057, King Anawrahta built this
spot because it was here that he was chosen (by a leaning umbrella), from at the centre of his newly empowered kingdom. The terraces once bore The Shwesandaw Paya,
among five brothers, to be the crown prince. terracotta plaques showing scenes from the Jataka, but traces of these, along with Mingalazedi
It’s probably most impressive from outside. Its terraced design, similar and of other sculptures, were covered by rather heavy-handed renova- Paya, now offers the
Much of the mural work to Sulamani Pahto (p304), is based on a 42m-square base. Have a walk- tions. The now-gilded zedi bell rises from two octagonal bases, which highest accessible
at Bagan is thought to around to take in the fragments of the original fine plaster carvings, top the five square terraces. This was the first monument at Bagan to points within the Bagan
be similar to how the glazed sandstone decorations and nicely carved reliefs on the doorways. feature stairways leading from the square-bottom terraces to the round archaeological zone.
interiors of Buddhist Inside are four Buddhas on the lower and upper floors, though the base of the stupa itself. This stupa supposedly enshrines a Buddha hair
temples in northeastern stairways are closed. Traces of old murals are also still visible. There are relic, brought back from Thaton. Only the south entrance doesn’t have
India must have appeared plenty of vendors here. handrails leading up the steep steps.
before their destruction The hti, which was toppled by the earthquake, can still be seen lying
at the hands of Muslim BULEDI on the south side of the paya compound. A new one was fitted soon after
invaders. bU"ly'sI" the quake.
Free from tourists and postcard vendors not long ago, this temple – with About 150m north stands Lawkahteikpan Pahto – a small but inter-
steep stairs leading to a narrow terrace around the stupa – has become esting Middle-period gu containing excellent frescoes and inscriptions
something of an alternative sunset spot. It’s about 600m south of the in both Burmese and Mon. It’s usually locked – ask at Shwesandaw for
Htilominlo, across Anawrahta Rd. It’s also known as ‘Temple 394’. the keymaster.
GUBYAUKNGE DHAMMAYANGYI PAHTO
gUe¨p;k'=y' /mμr®äkI"puqiu"
Off Anawrahta Rd, about 1.5km east of Htilominlo, this Early Bagan– Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive walled 12th-century temple
period temple has some excellent stucco carvings on the outside walls (about 500m southeast of Shwesandaw) has a similar plan to Ananda;
(particularly on the north side) and some original paintings visible inside. with projecting porticoes and receding terraces, though its sikhara is
reduced to a stub nowadays. It is generally thought that it was commis- The Dhammayangyi
WETKYI-IN-GUBYAUKGYI sioned by Narathu (who was assassinated in 1170), though some have Pahto is generally
0k'äkI"a='"gUe¨p;k''äkI" attributed the building to the earlier reign of Alaungsithu. ascribed to Narathu (who
Just west of Nyaung U, and about 100m or so east of Gubyauknge, this Like Ananda, there are two encircling ambulatories, but the inner one was assassinated by
off-the-main-circuit, detailed 13th-century temple has an Indian-style is closed off, intentionally filled by brick rubble centuries ago. No-one foreign agents – some
spire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in Old Bagan. It is interesting for the is sure why, but many believe it was ‘payback’ to the ruthless king who debate whether from Sri
fine frescoes of scenes from the Jataka, but unfortunately, in 1899 a Ger- mandated the mortarless brickwork fit together so tightly that even a pin Lanka or India), much to
man collector came by and surreptitiously removed many of the panels couldn’t pass between any two bricks. Walking around the outer ambu- the delight, apparently,
on which the frescoes were painted. Those that remain in the entry are latory, under ceilings so high up you can only hear the squeaks of bats of the slaves working on
in great shape. Steps inside lead to four Buddha images and you can see circling in the dark, you can see some intact stucco reliefs and paintings, this monster.
Hindu figures engraved on the spire. suggesting the work had been completed. The mystery goes on.
Three out of the four Buddha sanctums were also filled with bricks.
The remaining western shrine features two original side-by-side images
CENTRAL PLAIN of Gautama and Maitreya, the historical and future Buddhas (it’s the
only Bagan site with two side-by-side Buddhas). Perhaps someday, when
In this vast plain (roughly south of Anawrahta Rd between New Bagan and Myanmar’s archaeological department, or Unesco or some other party,
Nyaung U), it’s possible to stumble into village life and goat herds just 2km clears out all the brick rubble, one of the great architectural mysteries of
from the paved roads. Some corners, unsurprisingly, are well away from the Bagan will be solved.
normal package-tour stops, while a few are must-sees for all. Some temples The top terraces are closed to visitors, though there are some nooks
are locked, but a ‘keymaster’ should be in the area; ask around. This list that some vendors lead visitors to (slightly illegally).
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SULAMANI PAHTO spot for sunrise (and sunset too): it faces the full Bagan plain to the east.
cUL;m,ipuqiu" It’s noted also for its enormous bell-like dome, reached by steep stairs up
About 1km east of Dhammayangyi, this broad two-storey temple is one three receding terraces, and for the beautiful glazed Jataka tiles around
of Bagan’s most attractive, with lush grounds (and a fair share of vendors) each terrace. Although many Jataka have been damaged or stolen, there The Mingalazedi Paya
behind the surrounding walls. It’s a prime example of later, more sophis- are still 561 of the 1061 originals left. The smaller square building in the represents the final
ticated temple styles, with better internal lighting. This temple, known zedi grounds is one of the few Tripitaka libraries made of brick. flowering of Bagan’s
As fine as Paul Strachan’s as the Crowning Jewel, was constructed around 1181 by Narapatisithu. The Mingalazedi is the very last of the large Late-period monuments. architectural outburst.
work is (see p293), one Combining the horizontal planes of the Early period with the vertical lines It was built from 1268 to 1274 by Narathihapati, who tempted fate (the
flaw of his book was to of the Middle, the receding terraces create a pyramid effect. The brickwork story goes) by overlooking a prophecy that Bagan would fall if the pagoda
ask why the reclining throughout is considered some of the best in Bagan. The gilded sikhara is a was ever finished. Ten years after it was, Mongols invaded – and Bagan’s
Buddha next to Shwe- reconstruction; the original was destroyed in the 1975 earthquake. Stupas prominence fell.
sandow Paya couldn’t stand at the corners of each terrace, and a high wall, fitted with elaborate
have been left lying on gateways at each cardinal point, encloses the entire complex. The interior GUBYAUKGYI
its left side rather than face of the wall was once lined with 100 monastic cells, a feature unique gUe¨p;k''äkI"
the right. To have done among Bagan’s ancient monasteries. Situated just to the left of the road as you enter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi
this, though, would have Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters represents some (Great Painted Cave Temple) sees a lot of visitors (and vendors) during
violated classical Bud- of Bagan’s finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed peak season for its well-preserved, richly coloured paintings inside. These
dhist iconagraphy. plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible. are thought to date from the temple’s original construction in 1113, when
Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the Kyanzittha’s son Rajakumar built it following his father’s death. In Indian
image at the main eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall. style, the monument consists of a large vestibule attached to a smaller
The interior passage around the base is painted with quite big frescoes antechamber. The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls is in particularly
from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earlier frescoes. The good condition.
stairways to the top are closed. Perforated, Pyu-style windows means you’ll need a powerful torch to
A walled enclosure in the north of the compound contains the remains see the ceiling paintings clearly. If it’s locked off-season, ask in the village
of Sulamani Kyaung. A water tank in the compound is thought to be the for the keymaster.
only original Bagan reservoir still in use by local residents. Next to the monument stands the gilded Myazedi (Emerald Stupa). A
four-sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscrip-
THABEIK HMAUK tion consecrating Gubyaukgyi and written in four languages – Pyu, Mon,
spit'emH;k' Old Burmese and Pali. Its linguistic and historical significance is great,
Facing Sulamani from 150m east, this sikhara-topped temple looks like since it establishes the Pyu as an important cultural influence in early
a smaller version of Sulamani, but is (for the time being) blissfully free Bagan and relates the chronology of the Bagan kings.
of visitors or vendors. Much of its interiors were damaged by the 1975
earthquake, but there are multiple stairways up to a wrap-around medi- MANUHA PAYA
tation chamber with little light (and a few bats). There are two outside mnUh;.ur;" Legend says that
terraces, reached by narrow stairs, with superb views. In Myinkaba village, about 500m south of Gubyaukgyi, stands this active Manuha, the captured
(and rather modern-looking) pagoda, named after the Mon king from Mon king, built the
PYATHADA PAYA Thaton, who was held captive here by King Anawrahta. Bagan temple that bears
¨pSd:".ur;" In the front of the building are three seated Buddhas; in the back is a his name in 1059, and
About 750m southeast of Sulamani, reached by dirt roads that sometimes huge reclining Buddha. All seem too large for their enclosures – supposedly the design represents
get obscured in goat fields, this impressive pagoda is a superb sunset- representing the stress and discomfort the king had to endure. However, his displeasure with
viewing spot, with a giant open terrace – Bagan’s largest – atop the these features are not unique in Bagan. captivity.
steps, and another small deck further up. Many days, visitors have it to It should be pointed out that conquerors of the 11th century weren’t
themselves; on others a lone group may be here. in the habit of sparing the lives of leaders – even for a captive life. Aung
San Suu Kyi, in fact, described the ‘sympathetic account of Manuha [as]
one of the most admirable parts of Burmese history…unstinting respect
MYINKABA AREA for a noble enemy’.
It is said that only the reclining Buddha, in the act of entering parinib-
¨m='"kp: bana (final passing away), has a smile on its face, showing that for
The sites north and south of Myinkaba village are all just off the main Manuha, only death was a release from his suffering. But if you climb to
road and easy to access. These are listed in order from north to south. the top of this paya via the stairs in the back (ask for keys if it’s locked),
you can then see the face of the sitting Buddha through a window – from
MINGALAZEDI up here you’ll realise that the gigantic face, so grim from below, has an
mg¿l;ectI equally gigantic smile.
Close to the riverbank, towards Myinkaba from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura An outdoor corner of the temple compound is dedicated to Mt Popa’s
Hotel, Mingalazedi Paya (Blessing Stupa; aka ‘Sunrise Pagoda’) is a hot presiding nat, Mae Wanna and her sons Min Lay and Min Gyi. Devotees
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of Manuha Paya celebrate a large paya pwe on the full moon of Tabaung The temple itself – with corncob sikhara, which some believe to be the
(February/March). Ananda prototype – can be climbed via tight stairs.
Usually a keymaster is around to unlock the door.
NAN PAYA
nn'".ur;" SOMINGYI KYAUNG
Just south of the Manuha Paya by dirt road, this shrine is said to have ciu"m='"äkI"ekY;='"
been used as Manuha’s prison, although there is little evidence support- Named after the lady who supposedly sponsored its construction, this
ing the legend. In this story the shrine was originally Hindu, and captors typical Late Bagan brick monastery (about 200m south of Nagayon) is
thought using it as a prison would be easier than converting it to a Bud- thought to have been built in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu to the
Recent research suggests dhist temple. It’s worth visiting for its interior masonry work – sandstone south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many brick monasteries in Bagan
that the Nan Paya was block facings over a brick core, certainly some of Bagan’s finest detailed were single-block structures; Somingyi is unique in that it has monastic
constructed by Manuha’s sculpture. Perforated stone windows are typical of earlier Bagan architec- cells clustered around a courtyard.
grandnephew in the late ture – in fact it was probably Bagan’s first gu-style shrine.
11th century. In the central sanctuary the four stone pillars have finely carved sand-
stone bas-relief figures of three-faced Brahma. The creator deity is hold-
ing lotus flowers, thought to be offerings to a freestanding Buddha image
NEW BAGAN AREA
once situated in the shrine’s centre, a theory that dispels the idea that this pug®Dmui¾oc''
was ever a Hindu shrine. The sides of the pillars feature ogrelike kala- Sights are a little scarcer heading south of New Bagan (Bagan Nyothit),
ate heads with open mouths streaming with flowers. Legend goes that towards the outskirts of the Bagan area.
Shiva employed such creatures to protect temples, but they proved too
ferocious; so Shiva tricked them into eating their bodies, then fed them SEINNYET NYIMA PAYA & SEINNYET AMA PAHTO
flowers to keep their minds off snacking on worshippers. In the centre cim'"Mk'Mim NH='¾ cim'"Mk'ampuqiu"
of the four pillars is an altar, on which once stood a standing Buddha or This stupa and shrine stand side by side (about 250m north of New
(some locals believe) a Hindu god. Bagan) and are traditionally assigned to Queen Seinnyet in the 11th
Ask at Manuha if the temple is locked. century, although the architecture clearly points to a period two centu-
ries later. The zedi rests on three terraces and is topped by a beautiful
ABEYADANA PAHTO stylised umbrella.
ap:y'rtn;puqiu"
About 400m south of the Manuha, this 11th-century temple with a LAWKANANDA PAYA
Sinhalese-style stupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha’s Bengali wife el;knNÌ;.ur;"
Abeyadana, who waited for him here as he hid for his life from his At the height of Bagan’s power, boats from the Mon region, Rakhaing
predecessor King Sawlu. It’s famed for its original frescoes, which were (Arakan) and even Sri Lanka would anchor by this riverside pagoda
cleaned in recent years by Unesco staff. With a torch, you can make out (about 250m southeast of the New Bagan crossroads – a sign in Burmese
many figures that Abeyadana, believed to be a Mahayanist, would likely points the way) with its distinctive elongated cylindrical dome. It was
have asked for: Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, and Hindu deities built in 1059 by Anawrahta. It is still used as an everyday place of worship
(Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and Indra). and is thought to house an important Buddha tooth replica. There are lots
The inner shrine contains a large, brick, seated Buddha (partly re- of benches for wide-open views of the Ayeyarwady, but it’s sometimes
stored); surrounding walls are lined with niches, most now empty. Inside hard to enjoy hassle-free.
the front wall are many Jataka scenes.
Ask at the caretaker’s house to the south if it’s locked. ASHE (EAST ) & ANAUK (WEST ) PETLEIK PAYA
aerH¾ NH='¾ aen;k' fk'lip'.ur;"
NAGAYON Just inland to the northeast from Lawkananda Kyaung are the excavated
ng:"T®u remains of these twin 11th-century paya. Found in 1905, the lower parts
Slightly south of Abeyadana and across the road, this elegant and well- of the pagodas are ho-hum from the outside but feature hundreds of If you climb up the
preserved temple was built by Kyanzittha. The main Buddha image terracotta Jataka lining the vaulted corridors (particularly impressive in staircase of the Sittana
is twice life size and shelters under the hood of a huge naga (dragon Anauk Petleik Paya). A keymaster usually appears to unlock the door and Paya you will spot Mt
serpent). This reflects the legend that Kyanzittha built the temple on turn on the fluorescent lights. Popa to the southeast.
the spot where he was sheltered while fleeing from his angry brother
and predecessor Sawlu – an activity he had to indulge in on more than SITTANA PAYA
one occasion. About 1km further south, this large, 13th-century bell-shaped stupa is
The outer, dark corridor has many niches with images of the earlier New Bagan’s most impressive structure. Built by Htilominlo, it’s set on
Buddhas. Paintings also decorate the corridor walls. The central shrine four square terraces, each fronted by a standing Buddha image in brick
has two smaller standing Buddhas as well as the large one. Unfortu- and stucco. A rather rickety stairway leads up the stupa’s southern side,
nately the walls have been whitewashed, obscuring any traces of possible where you can circle the structure on the terraces. At the southwestern
murals. corner is a chamber; you can climb up the wall and then down into the
308 S O U T H P L A I N • • D h a m m a y a z i k a Pa y a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N YAU N G U A R E A • • S h w e z i g o n Pa y a 309
interior, but have a torch handy. Usually somebody is around to show You enter the middle shrine. To the right (south) are whitewashed
you the spot. walls, but some Pali writing is still visible. The other two shrines (par-
ticularly the northernmost one) are home to lovely, vaguely Chinese- or
Tibetan-looking, mural paintings that contain Bodhisattva figures.
SOUTH PLAIN Whether these indicate possible Mahayana or Tantric influence is a hotly
debated issue among art historians.
This rural area, along Bagan’s southern reaches, follows the main road The three-shrine design hints at links with the Hindu Trimurti (triad)
between New Bagan and the Nyaung U airport. It passes Pwasaw and of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma, a triumvirate also associated with Tantric
Minnanthu villages on the way. Other than a few places, such as Paya- Buddhism. One might just as easily say it represents the Triple Gems of
thonzu, most sights see few tourists. Many horse-cart drivers will take in Buddhism (Buddha, dhamma and sangha), except that such a design is
the cluster of sights north of Minnanthu and go via dirt paths towards uncommon in Asian Buddhist archaeology, although it does appear in
Central Plain sights, such as Sulamani Pahto (p304). Views west from the Hindu shrines of India and Nepal.
some temples here rival any of Bagan’s in terms of scope of the site. During peak season the doors will be unlocked.
The following sites are listed in order from west to east.
Questions such as ‘You THAMBULA PAHTO
want to buy painting?’ DHAMMAYAZIKA PAYA smõBlpuqiu"
may disturb your study of /mμr;jik.ur;" This square temple, just north of Payathonzu, is decorated with faded
the 800-year-old paintings About 3.5km east of the New Bagan crossroads, and standing north of Jataka frescoes and was built in 1255 by Thambula, the wife of King
at Payathonzu. the main road, this pentagonal zedi is similar to the Shwezigon (opposite) Uzana. Its doors were kept locked at research time, but you can see a boat
but with a more unusual design. Set in the south-central end of Bagan, it race along the eastern wall if looking in from the southern entrance.
also has lovely views from its highest terrace.
Now set among lush garden grounds with a gilded bell, the Dham- NANDAMANNYA PAHTO
mayazika dates from 1196. Apparently the stupa is haunted by the general nNÌ;mM;
who started its construction (before being finished by Narapatisithu); it’s Dating from the mid-13th century, this small, single-chambered temple
said the general has appeared in many photos taken at the site, including has very fine frescoes and a ruined, seated Buddha image. It’s about
one of recent government officials! 200m north of Thambula; a sign leads down a short dirt road. (It’s the
An outer wall has five gateways. Up top, five small temples, each con- one to the right.)
taining a Buddha image, encircle the terraces; some of them bear interior Nandamannya earns its repuation by its mural of the ‘Temptation of
murals added during the Konbaung era. Mara’, in which nubile young females (vainly) attempt to distract the
It’s possible, with perseverance, to cycle the thrilling dirt roads here Buddha from the meditation session that led to his enlightenment. The
from Dhammayangyi Pahto, 2km north. undressed nature of the depicted females shocked French epigraphist
Charles Duroiselle, who wrote in 1916 that they were ‘so vulgarly erotic
LEIMYETHNA PAHTO and revolting that they can neither be reproduced or described’. Times
el"mYk'nH;.ur;" change: the topless ladies can be seen, particularly on the back left wall.
Built in 1222, this east-facing, whitewashed temple near Minnanthu vil- The murals’ similarity with those at Payathonzu has led some art his-
lage (about 3km east of Dhammayazika on the north side of the road) torians to suggest they were painted by the same hand. The design of the
stands on a raised platform and has interior walls decorated with well- Just behind the temple is the Kyat Kan Kyaung, a working under- bell-shaped Shwezigon
preserved frescoes. It is topped by a gilded Indian-style spire like that on ground monastery dating from the 11th century. Mats on the tunnel Paya became a virtual
Ananda. The jarlike structures out front were pillars of a building toppled floors are used for meditation. Apparently a monk died during medita- proto type for all stupas
by the 1975 earthquake. tion in recent years and was left for days – everyone thought he was still in Myanmar.
meditating.
TAYOK PYE PAYA
tTut'e¨p".ur;"
A couple of hundred metres north of Leimyethna by dirt road, this spired
temple gets attention for the views from its upper reaches.
NYAUNG U AREA
e–;='wI"
PAYATHONZU The main site in this area is the superb Shwezigon Paya.
.ur;"ou®"zš
Across the main road from Tayok, this complex of three interconnected SHWEZIGON PAYA
shrines (the name means Three Stupas) is a highlight for visitors who erácM'"xu®.ur;"
want to see 13th-century murals close up. It was abandoned shortly be- At the west end of Nyaung U, this beautiful zedi was started by Anaw-
fore its construction was complete – possibly due to the invasion of Kub- rahta but not completed until the reign of Kyanzittha. The latter is
lai Khan. Dating to the late 13th century, each square cubicle is topped by thought to have built his palace nearby. Supposedly, the Shwezigon was
a fat sikhara; a similar structure appears only at Salay (p279). The design built to enshrine one of the four replicas of the Buddha tooth in Kandy,
is remarkably similar to Khmer Buddhist ruins in Thailand. Sri Lanka, and to mark the northern edge of the city. The other three
310 N YAU N G U A R E A • • K y a n z i t t h a U m i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 311
tooth replicas went to Lawkananda (p307), a smaller stupa to the south;

to Tan Kyi, a stupa on the western bank of the Ayeyarwady; and to Tuyan
Taung, a stupa on the summit of a hill 32km to the east.
The stupa’s graceful bell shape became a prototype for virtually all later
stupas over Myanmar. The gilded zedi – lit up impressively at dusk – sits
on three rising terraces. Enamelled plaques in panels around the base of
the zedi illustrate scenes from the Jataka. At the cardinal points, facing
the terrace stairways, are four shrines, each of which houses a 4m-high
bronze standing Buddha. Gupta-inspired and cast in 1102, these figures
are Bagan’s largest surviving bronze Buddhas. Their left hands exhibit
the vitarka (exposition) mudra while the right hands are held palms out-
wards, fingers straight up, portraying the gesture of abhaya (no fear).
A 10cm circular indentation in a stone slab, before the eastern steps
up, was filled with water to allow former Burmese monarchs to look at
the reflection of the hti without tipping their heads backwards (which
might have caused them to lose their crowns). For a few kyat visitors
The 12th-century original can view the bejewelled hti through a telescope reserved for that purpose.
nat (spirit) figures of the Surrounding the zedi are clusters of zayat (rest houses) and shrines, some
Shwezigon were spirited of them old, others more modern, though none of them is original.
away by a collector In addition to ranking as one of the oldest stupas in Bagan, Shwezigon
and are now reportedly is known as the site where the 37 pre-Buddhist nat were first officially
somewhere in Italy. endorsed by the Bamar monarchy. To the southeast of the platform, a
yellow compound called ‘37 Nats’ (in English) features figures of the 37
nat. Ask around if the compound is locked. At one end stands an original
stone figure of Thagyamin, king of the nat and a direct appropriation of © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
the Hindu god Indra. This is the oldest known freestanding Thagyamin restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
figure in Myanmar.
KYANZITTHA UMIN everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
kYn'cc's;"wm=' the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Although officially credited to Kyanzittha, this cave temple may actu-
ally date back to Anawrahta. Built into a cliff face 250m southwest of
Shwezigon, the long, dimly lit corridors are decorated with frescoes, some
of which are thought to have been painted by Bagan’s Tartar invaders
during the period of the Mongol occupation after 1287. An attendant
usually will greet you with a torch to borrow and keys to unlock the
doors. It’s very quiet in there, and you can actually see the 800-year-old
brush strokes.
NORTH OF NYAUNG U
From the Nyaung U jetty, you can negotiate a fun boat trip to see three
temples just off the Ayeyarwady riverbank. A kilometre north, you can
find the 13th-century Thetkyamuni, with a few murals inside (hard to
make out) and tight, dark steps leading up to a small terrace up top. On
the hill nearby is the same-era Kondawgyi Pahto, with better preserved
murals and views from the surrounding platform.
Another kilometre or so north is the 11th- and 12th-century Kyauk
Gu Ohnmin cave temple, built in the side of a ravine. The inside tunnels
lead about 50m to blocked-off rubble; some locals say the tunnel was
intended to go 18km. You can climb on top of the temple from the new
steps to the right.
These sights are accessible, with more difficulty, by road. A boat trip
takes about two or three hours, and your driver will show you the tem-
ples. It costs about K3000 or K4000 for three or four people.
311
Western Myanmar
Stretching 600km head to toe, slender Rakhaing (Arakan) State makes up the bulk of this
enigmatic area of Myanmar that boasts both the country’s finest midrange beach resort
and the biggest ancient city apart from Bagan. Just inland are the way-remote, restricted-to-
travellers areas of Chin State where locals are more linked with the peoples and traditions
of neighbouring Bangladesh than with those of Myanmar. The whole area is cut off from
the Ayeyarwady River and central plain of Myanmar by the impressive Rakhaing Yoma
(Arakan Mountain Range), meaning limited road connections are rather adventurous to
navigate. Historically, locals here have, unsurprisingly, looked more to the sea than inland
to the Myanmar people. And it still feels a little that way.
In Ngapali Beach increasing numbers of travellers are flying in to plop onto a quiet patch
of the 3km stretch of palm-backed sand on the turquoise Bay of Bengal. Further north,
reached via the port town of Sittwe, Mrauk U is the country’s second-most-impressive ar-
W E S T E R N M YA N M A R
chaeological site after Bagan. Here angular hillocks are dotted with half-a-millennium-old
temples amid a sprawling thatched-hut village.
The Rakhaing people add a different slant to any Myanmar trip. Conversations are often
more direct and open than elsewhere, and are usually peppered with endearing, ever-proud
(sometimes exaggerated) claims of how their ancestors instilled the language and Buddhist
religion in Myanmar. And then there’s the food – just-caught squid or tiger prawns, plus
spicier curries and noodles – which is just better than most of the food around the country.
HIGHLIGHTS
Ngapali Beach (p314) is Myanmar’s best sun

spot – a 3km palm-backed white-sand stretch
facing the Bay of Bengal Chin
State
The food! Extra spice in the same ol’ curries puts
Ngapali’s fresh seafood (p316) among Mahamuni
Paya
Myanmar’s tastiest meals Mrauk U
The ancient Rakhaing capital of Mrauk U (p322)

rewards equally as a peaceful village (with cool
ruins) and a remarkable temple-filled site
The Mahamuni Paya (p328) is the original site of
the Mahamuni Buddha (now, er, in Mandalay)
Chin State (p328) teems with birds, mountain Ngapali Beach
climbs and traditional cultures – only parts of it
have been opened up to foreigners
312 W E S T E R N MYA N MA R • • Pe o p l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N MYA N MA R • • C l i m a t e 313
WESTERN MYANMAR 0
0
50 km
30 miles
Tibeto-Burmans from the north and east Currently, Chin State has the largest pro-
Hakha Shwebo
in the 9th and 18th centuries. The current portion of animists of any state in Myanmar,
inhabitants of the state may thus be mixed but the Zo culture is fast disappearing in the
Ch
descendants of all three groups: Bilu, Ben- face of Christian and Buddhist missionary
in d
win Budalin
BANGLADESH SAGAING Ayadaw gali and Bamar. influences. Some Chin follow the Pau Chin
Ri
ver
DIVISION
Gangaw Monywa
The Rakhaing proudly speak ‘Arakan’, a Hau religion, which is based on the wor-
Lotaw language they claim birthed Bamar (and is ship of a deity called Pasian and named
Chaung U certainly related). Supposedly, the study of after Pau China Hau, a spiritual leader from
CHIN STATE
‘Arakan script’ has been made illegal by a the Tidam District, who lived from 1859 to
Tilin
Myaing government keen to stress a Bamar line. 1948. Hau also devised the written Chin
Yesagyo
Matupi
Myingyan
language and is at least partly responsible
Pauk
The Rohingya for resurgent Chin nationalism.
ver
Lemyo Ri
Aungthabye Paletwa
Sami Mindat Pakokku MANDALAY The Burmese government denies the exist- The more traditional Zo or Chin groups
Mayu Ri
Taungbyo
Pindawa
Nyaung U
DIVISION ence of a Rohingya minority, a group of live in the south near the Chin-Rakhaing
Mt Victoria
Bagan around one million people who distinguish border. Chin Christians from the north
ver
Teknat Buthidaung Mt Popa

Meiktila
themselves from the Rakhaing majority by have bombarded the area with a project
Maungdaw Kyauktaw Mahamuni Kyaukpadaung
their Islamic faith. Many Rakhaing Mus- called Chin Christianity in One Century
Kala
Chauk
Teinnyo lims – Rohingya as they prefer to be called – (CCOC), the goal of which is to convert all
Restricte
1
dan
Wethali (Vesali) 2
have fled to neighbouring Bangladesh Chin to the ‘one true faith’. The govern-
River
Mrauk U
Kodangauk
and India to escape Bamar persecution. ment, on the other hand, has its own Bud-
Dalet
d Rd
River
Myaungbwe Sidoktaya Salin

Yenangyaung
Donpauk Ponnagyun Minbya In recent years some have taken up arms, dhist missions in the area and is pushing
RAKHAING
Boister Pauktaw STATE though there are no reports of skirmishes against both the animists and the Christians
Kyun
Sittwe Thobagwin Ngape Minbu Magwe with the government. Reportedly the Ro- in a battle for the Chin soul.
Riv nn
(Akyab)
er
Re hingya must apply for permission to travel – The Chin National Front, a nonviolent
A
stri Padan
Ay
Hanka cte Dalet

Kandauntgyi
eya
dR
Bay d
MAGWE Taungdwingyi even to visit the next village. In the past nationalist movement active on both sides
rw
Ann
DIVISION couple of decades about half a million Ro- of the India-Myanmar border, would like to
ad
Baronga
y
Kyun Sakhanmaw
Yebok 2 hingya fled to Bangladesh, though by the create a sovereign ‘Chinland’ to be divided
River
mid-1990s half that many were repatriated into the states of East Zoram (the current
Riveri
Ma-e
Restri
Kyaukpyu to Myanmar following agreements between Chin State in Myanmar), West Zoram (part
Mindon Myayde
Yangon (Rangoon) and Dhaka. of southeastern Bangladesh plus Tripura in,
cted
Sane Thayet
India), Central Zoram (the state of Mizo-
Rd
Yinnbye Lamu
Kyun Ramree
Isarbyin
River The Chin ram in India) and North Zoram (Manipur
Bay of Man
aung
Ch
Ta
(Ta ungg
In hilly and sparsely populated Chin State, in India). Rumours of activity spread dur-
Bengal
Manaung
an
ne
l
u o
Riv ngup k
er )
Paukkaung
the people and culture exhibit a mixture ing the research of this book in late 2004.
Manaung
Taunggok
Padaung
Sinte Pyay (Prome) of native, Bengali and Indian influences This was a unified area before the British
Kyun Shwedaung
BAGO
similar to that found among the Rakhaing, came along.
Thandwe
Ay
ey 2 DIVISION with a much lower Burman presence. As
in Rakhaing State, there have been clear CLIMATE
arw
Ngapali Beach (Sandoway) Nattalin

dy
a
Lontha
Andwe Kywe (Andrew Bay) Myabyin
Kyaukkyi
Ri governmental efforts in recent years to Those wishing to dodge the heat or rains
v
Thabyugyaing Th Myan-aung Gyobingauk promote Burmese culture at the expense of outside the high season (about October to
er
Ri and
ve we
r Chin culture, and many Chin have fled west March) will find that downpours or jellyfish
Kyeinthali Ky
e AYEYARWADY
Minhla
Sitkwin to Bangladesh and India. will discourage much fun at Ngapali Beach.
Rivintal
er i
DIVISION Of Tibeto-Burman ancestry, the Chin Sittwe and Mrauk U receive more rain than
INDIAN OCEAN Kanthaya
Letpandon people call themselves Zo-mi or Lai-mi most of the country – about 500cm per year.
To Yakyi
(Yegyi) Hinthada (both terms mean ‘mountain people’), and Sudden rainstorms during the monsoon
Gwa
(35km)
share a culture, food and language with the (mid-May to mid-September) are danger-
Zo of the adjacent state of Mizoram in India. ous if travelling by boat to Mrauk U, or
PEOPLE by the Rohingya insurgents)? Although Outsiders name the different subgroups between Sittwe and Taunggok. But rains
The Rakhaing the first inhabitants of the region were a around the state according to the district in do bring surfable waves to Ngapali Beach.
Much of western Myanmar is home to the dark-skinned Negrito tribe known as the which they live, eg Tidam Chin, Falam Chin Cyclones and tropical storms tend to occur
fascinating Rakhaing ethnic group, which Bilu, later migrants from the eastern Indian and Haka Chin. just before and after the rainy season.
is in itself a controversial topic – are the subcontinent developed the first Hindu- Traditionally the Chin practise swidden
Rakhaing actually Bamar (Burmans) with Buddhist kingdoms in Myanmar before (slash-and-burn) agriculture. They are also DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Indian blood, Indians with Bamar charac- the first Christian millennium. These king- skilled hunters, and animal sacrifice plays Malaria precautions should be taken during
teristics or a separate race (as is claimed doms flourished before the invasion of the a role in important animistic ceremonies. monsoon season. Seven people were killed
314 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • N g a p a l i B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • N g a p a l i B e a c h 315
when their boat was hit by a chance storm No topless or nude bathing is allowed. NGAPALI BEACH 0
0
2 km
1 mile
Island’ off the south end of the beach. Cor-
in late 2004, while heading from Sittwe to Surfing is possible during monsoon sea- al’s not super – there are some towering
Mrauk U (see p322 for details). son (mid-May through to mid-September), A B cones to swim around – but there’s plenty
when malaria precautions should be taken. INFORMATION of bright red and blue fish to follow. About
GETTING THERE & AROUND Most hotels stay open all year, but it’s quiet Government Telephone Centre....1 A2
Telephone Centre......................(see 8)
anyone you ask can help arrange a trip.
Thandwe (Sandoway) is the major access from April to October. 1 Telephone Centre....................(see 12) Another boat trip most hotels arrange is
point for visitors headed to Ngapali Beach. The December 2004 tsunami essentially SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
to Pirate Beach (US$17 to US$20), a full-day
Most arrive by air from Yangon. Two long had no impact here. The earthquake was felt, Ngapali Golf Course.....................2 A3 trip to an isolated beach an hour south;
bus routes from Yangon go to Thandwe but the area suffered no injuries or damage, SLEEPING
trips should include a BBQ lunch there. It’s
too, one via Pyay (Prome), and the other as only a very subtle change in the tide was Amata Resort & Spa.....................3 B4 not an island, but it can’t be reached by land
Bayview Beach Resort...................4 B3
via Gwa. See p318 for more details. noticed. To Airport Grand Resort................................5 A3
(easily), so it feels like one.
Sittwe is the necessary access point to (3km) Laguna Lodge..............................6 B4 Ngapali Golf Course (green fee US$5) is a nine-
Mrauk U. It’s possible to reach it by plane Orientation Lin Tha Oo Lodge........................7
Ngapali Beach Hotel.....................8
B4
B4 hole course a couple of kilometres north of
from Thandwe or Yangon (p321), or by Ngapali Beach is a 3km stretch paralleled Royal Beach Motel.......................9 B4 the beach. Hire clubs are available.
Ai
rp
2 Sandoway Resort.......................10 B4
boat from Taunggok, near Thandwe (p318). by an unnamed road, with hotels spread
or
Silver Beach Hotel......................11 B3
t
k
Rd
ee
Note that a Myanma Airways flight from along its curve. Ngapali village is about 2km Sleeping
Cr
To Thandwe EATING
Thandwe to Sittwe crashed in January 1998, north. Most visitors arrive at the Thandwe Ngapali
(7km)
Best Friend Restaurant................12 B3 Rooms over US$100 are included in the
killing several passengers. airport, which is actually closer to Ngapali, Village Catch.........................................(see 4)
Laguna Lodge Bar......................(see 6)
Top End section. Accommodation is open
1
The overland routes that link up north about 5km north of Ngapali Beach. Moonlight..................................13 B4 all year unless otherwise noted. A couple of
Ngapali Rd
and south Rakhaing State are all closed to Smile Restaurant........................14 B4
Sunset Bar..................................(see 4)
former cheapies have been knocked down
foreigners. Information 2
Two Brothers Restaurant............15 B4 to make way for new resorts. At budget or
Services are limited. A hotel is your best midrange hotels, electricity runs from 6pm
bet for help for traveller’s info, money ex- to midnight (usually) unless you spring for
SOUTHERN RAKHAING change or to locate medical help. 3 Ice Factory
ee
k
Ngapali
Reservoir
rooms with generators.
Linthar Cr
Village
This part of slender Rakhaing State boasts INTERNET & TELEPHONE 5
12
11 Thandwe Beach Hotel
BUDGET
some of Myanmar’s best beaches and, un- Ngapali’s limited Internet access can usu- 4
(Construction Site) Grand Resort (s/d US$6/10) Facing Ngapali Beach
surprisingly, sees most of the visitors who ally be accessed at several hotels; nonguests Jade Marina Resort
(Construction Site)
from a rocky stretch of beach at the north
do make it to the region. It’s the only part can get online at the Silver Beach Hotel Tamarind
Beach Hotel
7 14 end, the rather rough Grand Resort is not
15
of the state with bus connections, in addi- (p316) and the Ngapali Beach Hotel (p316) (Construction Site)
13 the most desirable budget sleep in Myanmar
8
tion to air. for about K4000 per hour. (and calling it a ‘resort’ is a real stretch), but
Bay of
The government telephone centre (in Bengal it gets you on the water cheaply. A sign in
NGAPALI BEACH Ngapali village) charges US$5 for overseas 4 10 Lontha village, north of the beach, leads a
=plI calls. There are phone centres in the beach 3 few hundred metres south from the main
To Jade Taw
%43 area at Ngapali Beach Hotel (per min US$7) and To Pearl Village (200m);
6
road. Its four rooms have concrete floors,
Island (250m) Lontha Village (2km)
Myanmar’s most popular beach destination Silver Beach Hotel (per min to North America/UK & Aus- mattresses on the floor, a rickety fan that
9
features a 3km palm-backed stretch of (for tralia US$5/4) The Silver Beach’s phone stand runs for a few hours, and an OK bathroom
the time being) pretty quiet, pretty empty is outside the hotel. attached.
white-sand public beach. Named, some say, to it. It’s worth seeing for its glorious pano-
by a wayward Italian thinking of his Naples Sights ramic views – and for the adventure to reach MIDRANGE
home, Ngapali has about 10 bungalow ho- FISHING VILLAGES it. To get there, turn left at the town junction Lin Thar Oo Lodge (%42333, in Yangon %01-229
tels, with traditional fishing villages in the With a bicycle you can tour several of the (near the market and where Thandwe-bound 928; www.linntharoo-ngapali.com; s US$15-30, d US$20-
area. Local life still shares the sand with fishing villages. Just north of Ngapali Beach pick-ups await their turn). The road parallels 35; a) This 300m strip of 42 bungalows
(mostly European) foreign guests, as occa- are the small villages of Linthar and (further the boat-filled bay and quickly degenerates towards the northern end of the bay has a
sional ox carts meander by sunbathers. north, at the turnoff to Thandwe) Ngapali. into a path too sandy and rocky to ride on; long, shaded deck outside and a great scene.
Historically isolated – the bus trip here South of the hotels, and easily reached bare- if on a bike, leave it with a local or walk it. Superior bungalows have air con, hot water
still remains the monster trip of Myanmar’s foot by the beach, is the more interesting About five minutes or so after passing a rick- and satellite TV; standards come with cold
most popular desolations – the nearby village of Jade Taw, where you’ll see fish dry- ety bridge, you reach the hill steps. It’s about water and no TV. Electricity runs from 1pm
Thandwe airport has triggered a more ing on bamboo mats. a 15-minute walk up the hill to the stupa. to 3pm and from 5pm to 10pm or so. This
midrange crowd streaming in. At research Even further south is the bigger village of used to be a golden cheapie; rates have
time, five new hotel projects (some joint Lontha and an inlet of the same name, backed Activities risen, though room conditions (clean and
ventures) were under way (these are listed by a sweeping curve of mangrove and sand Four-hour snorkelling trips (4-5 people incl boat, simple, but showing some wear) haven’t
on the map), and one-time cheapie guest- facing south. It’s prettiest at high tide. mask & snorkel US$12-15) usually go at 7am or always gone up with the hike (yet).
houses have scrubbed their rooms clean On a bayside hill east of Lontha is a mod- 8am to catch the clearest water. Most trips Royal Beach Motel (%42411, in Yangon %01-
and upped their prices. est white stupa with coloured bulbs attached take in a few spots around (private) ‘Pearl 243 880; [email protected]; r US$15-40; a)
316 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • N g a p a l i B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • T h a n d w e 317
An excellent midranger on the beach’s south Lushly shaded in palms, with evocative dish of crab, squid or barracuda runs about on the main road. Bicycles can be rented
end (just before the fishing village starts), walkways leading past gardens and ponds, K2000, barbecued tiger prawn is K3500, from most hotels for about K2000 per day.
the Royal has five price ranges for rooms in this Italian-Burmese joint venture is one and lobster is K9000 and up.
its super-comfy, shady and more compact part villa, one part cottage ‘resort’. Cottages Moonlight (Ngapali Rd; h7.30am-10pm Oct-Apr) THANDWE
complex. All rooms have wood floors and are two storeys, with rich dark woods, airy There’s no prices on the menu, but the o®tâE
mosquito nets, and include breakfast al- loft beds with resting area, and a view over friendly English-speaking manager brings Though it plays a tertiary fiddle to Ngapali
fresco in the restaurant bar. A small forest of the water. Bathrooms have clear roofs. Two- the Yangon hotel experience to a simple deck in terms of travel appeal, ‘Thandwe’ (aka
palms separates the rooms from the beach. floor villas follow the same plan, but are a restaurant (rimmed by wagon wheels). Its Sandoway or Thantwe) is what your air-
The two highest priced rooms (US$35 and couple of notches more luxurious. Rates barbecue squid (K2000) may be Ngapali’s or bus-ticket stub will read. Located about
US$40) come with 24-hour power and air from 22 December to 15 January rise by up tastiest. Squid comes flattened as ‘fillets’ – 10km inland to the northeast of Ngapali
con. Staff members bring buckets of hot to US$90, and fall by as much as US$50 in not diced up – and barbecued. Beach, Thandwe is home to some 50,000
water if you don’t want your shower cold. October, April and May. The new swimming Other very good choices: residents (30% of which are Muslim) and
Laguna Lodge (%43122, in Yangon %01-501 123; pool and library should be ready before you Best Friend Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) One of a pack of nicely fills a hilly valley with its low-key
r US$45-70) Ngapali’s smallest accommoda- arrive. The restaurant has an Italian chef. eateries at the beach’s north end. streets.
tion is this quiet, small bungalow with four Amata Resort & Spa (%42177, in Yangon %01- Smile Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) Outside Ngapali Beach Thandwe has been a key Rakhaing cen-
rooms upstairs; the two US$70 rooms (and 542 535; www.amataresort.com; r US$120, ste US$140, Restaurant. tre for many centuries. When the British
probably the only worthwhile options) face cabanas cottage/sea-view US$180/420; ais) This Two Brothers Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) Outside Amata stationed a garrison here around the turn
the water, with big, creaking wood floors swish complex of two-storey cabanas (the Resort & Spa. of the 20th century, they twisted the name
and shared balcony. It’s open from mid- cottage is a steal compared to the sea-view into Sandoway.
October to May. cost) is reached by a long open-air hall- The islet at the southern end of the beach has
Silver Beach Hotel (in Yangon % 01-381 898; way and pool sandwiched between the bar a small café you can wade to for tea, beer and Sights
[email protected]; bungalow s US$55-85, and beach. Rooms are on the ground floor potato chips; there’s good shade at midday. THE MARKET & AROUND
d US$65-95; ai) At the beach’s north end, (suite above) in the complex away from the Housed in a former British jail in the centre
the Silver’s stylish bungalows have mini- water. HOTEL RESTAURANTS of town, the Thandwe market is where a hand-
bar, satellite TV and hot shower. The lobby Ngapali Beach Hotel (%42200, in Yangon %01- Only hotel restaurants provide beachside ful of guests from upscale beach resorts on
has a small library and Internet (per hour 211 888; www.ngapalihotel.com; r US$100-160; ai) eating. Most hotels have kitchens open to day trips go seeking a ‘real deal market’. It is
K4000), which is often out. The private bun- This former government-run hotel (leased all. Here are a few. kinda real deal actually. Vendors sell medici-
galows, opened in 2003, are a few notches to private operators since 1999) has nice Bayview Beach Resort (%20188) This place nal herbs, clothes, textiles, some souvenirs,
up in comfort, with back patios facing the bungalows with back patios facing one of has two restaurants. The Sunset Bar has US$5 hardware and free-market consumer goods.
water, hardwood floors and art details on Ngapali’s longest (and calmest) stretches. pizzas, noodle dishes and burgers. Happy On its northern side, the Point is a
the walls. The duplex bungalows include But comfort-wise it’s a bit out of its league hour runs from 6pm to 7pm (beers US$1, friendly art gallery and teashop that hosted
front patio and are set around a lawn. compared to the others. cocktails US$2). Its main restaurant, the some free language courses for locals until
Catch, serves seafood from US$8 to US$22. it was shut down by the government in
TOP END Eating & Drinking Amata Resort & Spa Restaurant (h7-10am, 2004; ask to see if things have changed if
These hotels are designed to compete as ‘in- Cheap, fresh and plentiful, Ngapali’s sea- 11am-2pm & 6.30-10.30pm; pizzas & pastas US$8-12, spe- you want to volunteer.
ternational resorts’ with the best in Thailand. food ranks easily amongst Myanmar’s best cialities US$14-20) This hotel restaurant over- Across the street on the north side is the
Most need to be booked way in advance. At dining. The long lights that line the western looks the pool and beach. On offer are a Suni Mosque, Thandwe’s largest of five.
least five new ones were in the works at re- horizon offshore at dusk much of the year juicy beef tenderloin for US$17, a big ice-
search time; see the map for locations. aren’t India’s skyline but fishing boats with cream assortment (US$5) and real espresso HILL PAGODAS
Bayview Beach Resort (%20188, in Yangon %01- bright bulbs that are used to attract squid. (US$3). Three golden (and rhyming) stupas stand
504 471; www.Bayview-Myanmar.com; r US$155, in the Unsurprisingly, Ngapali restaurants cook a Laguna Lodge Bar (%43122) Here you can on hilltops at four points around Thandwe.
rainy season US$60; ais) This luxurious particularly mean squid, best when dunked get cocktails and fruit juices (including a None are spectacular in themselves, but each
German-Burmese joint venture occupies a in a spiced ginger-and-garlic sauce. rare carrot juice for K1000) on the sand. offers excellent viewpoints of the town’s
nice trip of beach, with a rare beach bar, The government technically restricts bars tin roofs peeking out of a sea of palms and
a spa, a shop and a restaurant. Swankish (and therefore the sale of alcohol) on beach Getting There & Away hills leading in east and west. It’s worth
bungalows are filled mostly with package areas. Hotels, all of which have restaurants, See p318 for information on buses and flight visiting at least one.
tourists (many Germans and Austrians); often keep the drinks tucked away from info to/from this region. Buses to Yangon, The tallest, Nandaw Paya, 1.5km west of
you’ll need to reserve by April for a room in the water. Pyay and Gwa offer pick-up service at Nga- the market, was supposedly erected in 761
winter. Garden-view bungalows have dou- pali Beach hotels. See p318 for information by King Minbra to enshrine a piece of a
bles and triples; beachfront ones are doubles MAIN ROAD RESTAURANTS on the nearby boat service. rib of the Buddha. The long shrine facing
only. Activities include windsurfing, kayak- A dozen take-your-pick open-air restau- the stupa to the south houses some nice
ing and catamaranning. rants line the main road, with clusters Getting Around wood-carving reliefs of Buddha’s life. Most
Sandoway Resort (%42244, in Yangon %01-296 grouped around most hotels. Each offers A pick-up from Thandwe to Ngapali Beach visitors skip the overgrown steps up and
987; www.sandowayresort.com; cottages s US$170-260, practically identical menus (posted in Eng- and on to Linthar village (K200, one hour) walk up the hill-encircling road that starts
d US$180-270, villas s US$260-330, d US$270-340; as) lish) with practically identical prices. A runs frequently. Catch one in either direction on the hill’s northeast side.
318 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • K a n t h a y a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • S i t t w e 319
Just east of town, right across a small river the reputation of being the hardest, bounci- If you’re staying overnight, the Royal Guest spicy dishes can easily fill the half-a-day
about 1km from the market, the Sandaw Paya est, most stomach-churning trip in Myan- House (%043-61088; s/d K3000/6000) has clean you need on either side of a Mrauk U trip.
was supposedly built in 784 by Rakhaing mar; one traveller from Switzerland said, ‘It basic rooms with private bathroom a cou- The population is about 30% Muslim.
king Minyokin to house a Buddha hair, and was worse than training camp for the Swiss ple of blocks from the bus station. A port town of note for a couple of hun-
was rebuilt by the Burmese in 1876. army.’ One local complained about bags of Fast boats leave from the Taunggok docks dred years, and inhabited for a couple of
Across the river north (past the bus sta- dried fish filling the aisles and floors on a to Sittwe (US$40, eight hours) on Monday, thousand, Sittwe boomed when the Brit-
tion and east on a stone road about 2km supposedly ‘cargo-free bus’ and left it: ‘My Wednesday and Saturday. Several buses ish moved the Rakhaing capital here from
from the market), the Andaw Paya is the low- daughter will vomit all night.’ Some buses leave for Pyay (K2500) around 4am and Mrauk U in the early 19th century. Incom-
est, but has revealing looks at the river’s hand out vomit bags. 7.30pm daily. ing wealth from cargo trade with Calcutta
fork from the hills east. It claims to house a The roughest part, between Taunggok fuelled the construction of some fine colo-
Buddha molar relic and dates from 763. and Pyay, winds mercilessly in the Arakan nial mansions, but much of the grace was
You can get a trishaw to take you to all
three for K2000 or so.
Mountains at night, when most passengers
close up the windows for the cold keeping
NORTHERN RAKHAING lost under heavy WWII raids.
the fish stench contained. But, really, it’s not This area, brushing against the Bangladesh Orientation & Information
Sleeping & Eating that bad. On the cargo bus, we found seats border, can be reached only by air or boat. Most of Sittwe’s action runs along the al-
Thandwe has no licensed places to stay. You one to three (on the front row) and five most north–south Main Rd, which paral-
can find some noodles around the market, (second row, with no seat before it) particu- SITTWE lels the Kaladan River. The airport is about
and a couple of rice-‘n’-curry restaurants larly good to keep an eye on the road. Also, cc'etâ 2.5km southwest of the centre; the main
on sidestreets a block north and south. a hearty dose of garlic beforehand seems to %43 / pop 200,000 boat jetty is about 1km north.
help neutralise the fish odour. Propped impressively where the wide tidal The main hospital and post office are near
Getting There & Away If you don’t want to take the trip to Pyay Kaladan River mouth kisses the Bay of Ben- the new clock tower, south of the centre
AIR at night, you can take a pick-up or bus gal, Sittwe (also called Sittway) may sound (where you’ll find the old steel clock tower,
Thandwe airport (%42611) is closer to Ngapali
to Taunggok, spend the night, and grab a like a quaint spot for water-watching strolls. erected by the Dutch in the 18th century).
village, about 3km north of the crossroads morning bus to Pyay. For most visitors, it’s just a hurry-and-leave Internet is slow and expensive in Sittwe.
between Ngapali Beach, Thandwe and the Ye Aung Lan (%43500) sends buses to Yan- transfer point for visitors heading to Mrauk At research time, there was a lone Inter-
airport. Hotel buses meet planes offering gon (K4500, about 17 or 18 hours) via Gwa. U (p322). The fish market, friendly folk and net stand (Main Rd; per hr K4500; h8am-9pm); it’s
free transport to Ngapali Beach, reserva- You can stop off at Kanthaya beach (K3000,
ὈὈ
tions or not. six to seven hours). SITTWE 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Yangon Airways (YA), Air Bagan and Air
Mandalay (AM) serve Yangon (US$72 to PICK-UP A B C D
To Mrauk U
US$80) daily, with several flights each week Pick-ups leave every 90 minutes from 6am Jetty (1km);
k
ree
INFORMATION IWT Office (1km)
aC
to Sittwe (US$64 to US$70). Flights to Heho to 6pm for Taunggok (K800/1200 in back/ Bangladesh Consulate..................1 C1 Ye Kyaw
Thu St
ky
Internet Stand..............................2 C3
yo
(US$110) or Nyaung U (US$121) often go front seat, four or five hours) from a small 1
Sa
Main Hospital..............................3 C3 8
Ὀ
Kyaw Za
n Swe
via Yangon. The connections run daily from station a couple of hundred metres north of Police Station...........................(see 10)
Post Office...................................4 C3
1
St
October to April. the bus station (across the river).

Myo Lw
Government-run Myanma Airways (MA) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chaung e
Bridge
Park
goes to Sittwe on Tuesday (US$50) and Yan- KANTHAYA Fish Market..................................5
Fruit Bat Trees..............................6
C2
C3 Kyayoug
Kyaung
St
14
gon (US$65) daily. km'"o;y; Jama Mosque..............................7 C2 20

13
Nga Pain
St
Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi.......8 C1 24 U Ottama
This small Rakhaing coastal town, 130km New Clock Tower........................9 C3 21 St
Old Clock Tower........................10 C2
BOAT south of Thandwe and 26km north of Gwa, Rakhaing State Cultural
Htee D
an St
Zeigyo St
See Taunggok (right) for info on the boat is a struggling attempt at a new beach re- Museum................................11 C2 (Market St)
10
St
service to Sittwe. sort. Its isolation has meant few people 2
u
SLEEPING Central
one S
Rd
Market
make it here, and the beach doesn’t have the Noble Hotel...............................12 C2
Main
23
Set Y
Palace Hotel...............................13 C2 5
BUS reputation of Ngapali’s. There are a couple Prince Hotel................................14 C1
12 11 Ye Dwin St
Only the heartiest travellers travel to/from of plain guesthouses that accept foreign- Shwe Thazin Hotel.....................15 C3 (Merchant St)
7
here by bus. There are now two routes to/ ers, if you’re looking to break the journey EATING
from Yangon: over mountains via Pyay, and between Thandwe and Yangon using the City Point Music Restaurant.......16
May Yu Restaurant....................17
C3
C3 6 22
Cinema
r
a smoother way along the coast via Gwa. Gwa route. Sittwe
Rive
Mondi Stand..............................18 B3 2 17
To Lokananda University
15
Both services leave at 3pm from the bus Nyein Chan................................19 B3 Paya (600m);
TAUNGGOK Buddhistic 19 3
dan
station in Thandwe, about 1km north of TRANSPORT Museum
(750m); Sittwe City 9 4
et;='kut'
Kala
the market (just before the river). A ticket 3 Air Mandalay Office..................20 C2 Airport (2km) Hall u St
Y
Malikha Express Office...............21 C2 May 16
Police
for either is K4500. This surprisingly hopping lil’ town 80km or Myanma Airways Office............22 C3
The Strand
18 Bridge
Pier (Closed)..............................23 D2
The 17- or 18-hour route between Thand- so north of Thandwe is a stopping-off point Yangon Airways Office.............. 24 C2
Rd
we and Yangon via Pyay (K4500, about 12 for travellers between Pyay and Thandwe To Sittway To the Point
Main
Hotel (2.5km) (2.5km)
hours), run by Aung Thit Sar (%43499), has by bus, or for catching a boat to Sittwe.
320 N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • S i t t w e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • S i t t w e 321
cheaper at the Noble Hotel or Shwe Thazin His former monastery, the Maka Kuthala has basic rooms with concrete floors, thin- City Point Music Restaurant (Strand; most dishes
Hotel (opposite). Kyaungdawgyi (Large Monastery of Great Merit; Main mattress beds with mosquito net, and cold- K1000-2000; h7am-11pm) The nicest restaurant
Outside the generator-run midrange ho- Rd; admission free), is housed in (of all things) water showers. It doesn’t smell bad though. on the river, City Point has a big grass lawn
tels, electricity runs generally from 6pm to a grand, century-old British colonial man- There’s no breakfast. Electricity pumps life on the bank and a nightly one-guy music
11pm only. sion north of the centre. The modest mu- into either a fan or a fluorescent light bulb. show. It’s got a good location, but spray up
seum upstairs contains cases of ‘Union of Prince Hotel (%21395, in Yangon %01-286 701; before eating at dusk as mosquitos swarm.
Sights Burma’ notes, Buddhas and votives and www.mraukuprincehotel.com; Main Rd; s US$5-15, d US$10- Mondi is the Rakhaing-style fish noodle
WATERFRONT coins from the Mrauk U and other ancient 20; ai) It’s another run-down guesthouse soup downed by locals for breakfast. (One
Busy with to-and-fro boats, the Sittwe water- periods, plus a full case of more recent golf but a bit more traveller-focused, the Prince local passionately explained its difference
front is not as grubby as many port towns trophies. has some dingy rooms with shared bathroom with the ubiquitous Burmese noodle soup:
can be. The riverside Strand leads about A less satisfying collection, borrowed from on the ground floor, and bigger rooms (with ‘Mohinga has peanuts, mondi has chillis!’)
2km south to a smashing location called the some of Wannita’s collection apparently, low ceilings) on the top two floors. The most Sittwe’s best – many claim – is served at the
Point (admission K50, per bicycle K50),where you can is at the Buddhistic Museum (Baw Dhi St; admission expensive one has air-con from 7pm to 11pm small mondi stand (bowl K150; h6am-6pm) fac-
sip on a beer or fresh coconut as the sun sets free), an official-looking building made by (it’s an extra K1500 per hour to keep the gen- ing the city hall on the road to the airport.
over the Bay of Bengal. An extortionate fee the government in 1992. Inside are dozens erator running). Breakfast is served on a In the centre, you’ll find a few basic res-
is tolled for cameras (K1000), digital cam- of small ancient Buddha images and votive small ‘veranda’ or on the shaded patio. Ask taurants on Main Rd. On the Strand, May
eras (K2000) and video cameras (K3000). tablets. to see a few rooms before choosing one. Yu Restaurant is good for Chinese food
Just west is a grey-brown sand beach that The big pagoda between the museum (and beer).
has a tricky undertow, where a few (often and the centre is the Lokananda Paya, put up MIDRANGE
drunk) swimmers lose their lives each year. by General Than Shwe himself in 1997. On These more comfy options include round- Getting There & Away
The morning fish market kicks off around Saturday, soldiers shuffle to scrub clean the the-clock generators. Overland routes between Sittwe and Yan-
6am and is worth popping by before your giant walkway around it. Just north is a small Noble Hotel (%23558; 45 Main Rd; noble@myanmar gon (as well as to Mrauk U) are presently
ordination hall, which houses the Sachamuni
boat or plane leaves. On the stone pier, .com.mm; s/d US$25/35; ai) This newcomer closed to foreigners.
thousands of fresh fish are splashed on the image, a 1.5m bronze Buddha pock-marked sits in the centre across from the Rakhaing
stone pier, where fishers sell baskets full for with mini-Buddhas. Apparently the image State Cultural Museum. Rooms are small, but AIR
US$3 or US$4. was found by Mrauk U fishers in recent clean and quite modern – with satellite TV, Sittwe’s airport is about 2.5km southwest of
years – previously thrown in the river to minibar and hot-water shower. Staff mem- the centre. Taxis and trishaw drivers await
RAKHAING STATE CULTURAL MUSEUM ‘escape British destruction’, one local said. bers help you get online (per hr K3000) or flights.
The government-run Rakhaing State Cultural It was housed at the Bandoola Monastery on a bike. In peak season (between October and
Museum (Main Rd; admission US$2; h 10am-4pm in Mrauk U (p326) until the government Shwe Thazin Hotel (%23579; [email protected] April), daily flights go to/from Yangon and
Tue-Sat) is worth a look for its two floors of moved it here in 1997. It’s (unrealistically) .mm; 250 Main Rd; s/d US$30/35; ai) This new (at research time) there were flights five
Rakhaing cultural goodies. On the ground claimed to date from 24 BC. hotel offers the same amenities as the days a week to/from Thandwe.
floor, diagrams, artefacts and signs in Eng- Noble, but with a super 7th-floor lookout
lish detail how the Rakhaing started their OTHER SIGHTS deck (Sittwe’s highest point, actually), good
civilisation here around 3000 BC and about In the centre of town, an old steel clock tower, for glimpses of those fruit bats across Main SPREADING THE COMMISSIONS
Buddha’s purported visit in 554 BC. There’s topped with a weathervane, was erected by Rd. Internet is K2500 per hour. At research time a lone licensed guide
an imaginative rendering of Mrauk U in the Dutch in the 18th century. As a coun- At research time, the Sittway Hotel, west was essentially running a monopoly on
full steam that looks more Jules Verne, with tersymbol of Myanmar nationalism, in 1991 of the Point, was still government run. all independent travellers’ commissions
housed archways connecting hilltops. the government built the more ornate (and (paid behind the scenes from taxis, hotels,
Upstairs are displays on local customs (eg working) clock tower, south on Main Rd. Eating boats companies, airline offices and trishaw
models showing off some of the 64 Mrauk Hundreds of fruit bats slumber during the The same old curries and rice dishes come drivers you pay for) in Sittwe and Mrauk U.
U royal hairstyles), festivals (including the day in the trees around Sittwe University, with extra spice in Rakhaing State. Ask for Many travellers have enjoyed his service –
ra hta pwe, a three-day tug of war) and then head off at dusk to island hop across local specialties at any restaurant and you’ll and he seems a nice, capable (if a little
watercolour drawings detailing key moves the river. usually get the tastiest stuff. pushy) fellow.
you may need if you ever undergo a game Next to the Rakhaing State Cultural Mu- Nyein Chan (dishes K1000-2000; h 6am-10pm) But if you want more than one person
of traditional Rakhaing wrestling. seum, the Jama Mosque (1859) is easily Sittwe’s This friendly family Chinese/Burmese res- to cash in on you, don’t tell the first Eng-
most impressive building. taurant is one along a strip of Sittwe’s most lish-speaker you meet at the jetty or airport
BUDDHIST MUSEUMS appealing eateries a few blocks inland from where you’re staying. At the airport, avoid
A life’s work by Sittwe monk Bhaddanta Sleeping the new clock tower. One local specialty is the extortionate US$3 taxi ride 2km to the
Wannita, who spent 49 years collecting old BUDGET the super Rakhaing-style curry soup packed centre and walk 100m outside the airport
coins and Buddha images from monasteries Both shoestring options could use a little with prawns (15 at last count) and spiced gates and get a trishaw (about K1000). You
to protect them from thieves, has resulted more love. Electricity runs from 6pm to with chilli and ginger. Staff dutifully put could always ask to go to the Rakhaing
(seemingly) in a little tug-of-war between 11pm unless otherwise noted. on Myanmar national news at 9pm, but State Culture Museum, then walk to your
his former monastery and a government- Palace Hotel (%21657; Main Rd; s/d US$5/10) sometimes keep on the live audio feed of place alone. Drastic, but it might work.
opened museum. Barebone and rather rundown, the Palace US pro wrestling.
322 N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • M r a u k U www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G • • M r a u k U 323
Air Mandalay (%21638; h9am-5pm) and Yan- Saturday. See Taunggok (p318) for schedule pwe (pagoda festival) held near Dukkan- The temples are grouped in relation to
gon Airways (%24102; h9am-5pm) sell tickets times to Sittwe. thein Paya (p325) in mid-May. the central Palace Site: the North Group
for flights to Yangon (US$105 one way) and The pier that ran boats to Taunggok and Some harmless characters are likely to is home to the most popular temples, the
to Thandwe (US$75). the nearby Baronga Islands, near the fish find you to say ‘hi’. There’s a ‘literature man’ remote East Group has the finest engrav-
A bit cheaper, government-run Myanma market, was destroyed by a storm during who makes a point to chat with all foreign- ings at Kothaung, and the South Group the
Airways (%23157; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) has flights the 2004 rainy season. It’s possible services ers, and another guy who likes to murmur highest point.
to Yangon (US$90) and a Tuesday flight to will resume from there at some point in in various languages in your presence.
Thandwe (US$50). the future. Boats for Taunggok were leaving Information
from the Mrauk U jetty at research time. History Foreigners must pay a once-only US$10 fee
BOAT Mrauk U served as the last great Rakhaing to visit Mrauk U and any of its 157 known
To Mrauk U Getting Around capital for 354 years from 1430 to 1784. In monuments. Attendants at several temples
The only way to/from Mrauk U for foreign- Petrol is more expensive in Sittwe, evident its heyday, it served as a free port trading (irritatingly) light up old details with fluo-
ers, presently, is by boat. There are three in the US$3 shared taxi fare to/from the air- with the Middle East, Asia, Holland, Por- rescent lights and expect a K1000 ‘donation’;
speeds to go by. port. Trishaws await most planes (outside tugal and Spain. A Dutch bloke who visited both fees should be paid at the Shittaung
Government-run Inland Water Trans- the airport gate) and all boats, and should in the 16th century called it one of the rich- Paya (p324).
port (IWT) has an office 100m west of the cost K1000 or less to get anywhere. You can est cities in Asia, comparable to London or It may be possible to visit Chin state from
Mrauk U jetty, though there’s no need to rent a bicycle from some hotels for about Amsterdam. The remains of a European here (see p329).
buy tickets in advance. The two-level ferry K3000 per day. quarter called Daingri Kan can still be seen There are a couple of useful books on Ra-
chugs up the Kaladan River to Mrauk U just southwest of town. khaing history and Mrauk U, but at research
(US$4, six to seven hours) on Thursday, MRAUK U The Mrauk U dynasty was much feared time you needed to buy them beforehand
Saturday, Monday and/or Tuesday. It can e¨m;k'wI" by the peoples of the Indian subcontinent from Bagan Books in Yangon (p87). Tun
be quite pleasant upstairs on a deckchair %043 and central Myanmar. Mrauk U kings even Shwe Khine’s A Guide to Mrauk U (1993)
(K300) in good weather; there’s a stall serv- Simply the journey to the ancient Rakhaing hired some Japanese samurai as bodyguards is more artful and better organised, but U
ing basic food. capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung) – 65km by against assassination. At Mrauk U’s peak, Shwe Zan’s The Golden Mrauk U: An An-
On days it doesn’t run, at least one ‘pri- boat from Sittwe on an increasingly nar- King Minbin (1531–53) created a naval fleet cient Capital of Rakhine (1997) has more
vate boat’ (US$10, four to five hours) leave row waterway – gives a sense of time and of some 10,000 war boats that dominated the detail and is considered by some to be more
at 7am and often at 2.30pm. Often these can place to this lovely area in the foothills of the Bay of Bengal and Gulf of Martaban. Many accurate.
be arranged any day. Many are small open- Chin Mountains. Once in Mrauk U, its 150 of Mrauk U’s finest temples (Shitthaung, Group Star Co-Op Ltd (per hr K5000; h9am-5pm)
air boats with folding seats and a quicker or so temples stand atop, under and between Dukkanthein, Lemyethna and Shwedaung) offers Mrauk U’s lone Internet connection.
motor than the IWT ferry. rounded hillocks so curved and perfect they were built during his reign.
Nawarat Shwe Pyi Thar (%23159) runs a ‘fast look like they’re from a child’s drawing. Mrauk U was a successor to two earlier Sights
boat’ (US$20, three hours), leaving Sittwe at For those who’ve visited Bagan, Mrauk U kingdoms in the area: Dhanyawady (c 1st PALACE SITE & AROUND
2.30pm. These are enclosed 32-seater boats (roughly pronounced m’yawk-oo) is at once to 6th centuries AD) and Wethali (3rd to Just east of the main strip of Mrauk U vil-
with small windows. smaller – in temple size and scope – but 10th centuries), the remains of which are lage, the onetime royal palace of Mrauk U
more alive in the sense that thatched hut still visible to the north. All three kingdoms now is mostly crumbling walls (though the
To Taunggok & Baronga Islands villages perforate the site, with refuse fires blended elements of Theravada and Mahay- outer walls still stand 3.5m high) and gate-
Malikha Express (%23441; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) sells adding a smoky haze at dusk, as shepherds ana Buddhism with Hinduism and Islam. ways of sandstone blocks. It’s a good place
tickets for the fast boat (enclosed with win- lead their animals home. Curiously, locals In the late 18th century, the Konbaung dy- to get your bearings – with Haritaung just
dows) for Taunggok (US$40, eight hours), call out ‘bye bye’ and wave. nasty asserted its power over the region and north, golden Shwetaung on the hill to the
which departs on Monday, Thursday and The town is intersected by several chaung Mrauk U was integrated into the Bamar southeast.
(canals), the main source of transport and kingdoms centred around Mandalay. According to the legend, King Minbun’s
water. Much daily activity seems to be taken After the First Anglo-Burmese War of astrologers advised a move here in 1429
BOAT TRAGEDY up with water trips. Instead of the usual 1824–26, the British Raj annexed Rakha- after the palace at Launggret had been in-
In November 2004, five Italian tourists and clay pots or rectangular oil cans, Mrauk U ing and set up its administrative headquar- vaded by ‘poisonous snakes and evil birds’.
two locals were killed on a fast boat just residents carry shiny aluminium water pots ters in Sittwe, thus turning Mrauk U into His representatives witnessed some strange
outside Mrauk U when a cyclone over- (imported from India) on their hips. a political backwater virtually overnight. things at this spot – an old guy playing a
turned the boat. The boat had left Sittwe Since 1996, the government has funded a The Burmese name gradually changed to flute pointed to a cat-chasing rat and then
at 2.30pm and was struck after dark. Such massive restoration of Mrauk U. So far 37 Myohaung (Old City), though the Rakha- a snake-biting frog – apparently suggesting
storms in winter are very, very rare. Some temples have been restored of 145 planned. ing continued to call the town Mrauk U. its soil as being worthy of a king. Construc-
locals suggested, however, the govern- Not all visitors (or residents) share equal tion began in 1430 (though some sources
ment ferry is ‘bigger and safer’ as it’s less enthusiasm for how they look. One-time Orientation say it didn’t start until 1553); the palace
likely to overturn. Certainly the daytime cracked stupas now look as if they’re made Temples and town mingle together over a layout is roughly based on the Mahamuni
trip offers higher visibility in case of an of potters’ clay. 7-sq-km or so area. The boat jetty is 1km Paya (p328) to the north. In the centre of
accident. One of the most interesting times to visit south of the market and main strip of town; the site is a hole dug that served as an es-
Mrauk U is during the huge weeklong paya just east is the central Palace Site. cape tunnel to Shittaung Paya.
MRAUK U 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
The east-facing side likely dates from the lined with Buddha niches; in the centre of
end of the 5th century. The western face the shrine, an eight-sided pillar supports
A B C D displays a list dating from the 8th century the roof.
To Wethali (10km); Mahamuni Paya (50km) Yenla Fortress
INFORMATION Haridaung..................................5 B2 outlining Rakhaing kings from 638 BC to The original construction of the shrine is
Ahmyinttaung
Ngwetaung
Fortress Fortress
Group Star Co-Op Ltd................1 B2 Kothaung Temple......................6 C2 729 AD (King Anandacandra). Lying on its ascribed to King Minhlaraza in 1521. King
Laksaykan Gate..........................7 B3
1 14 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Laungbanpyauk Paya..................8 B1 back next to the pillar is a cracked, 3.6m- Minrazagyi then rebuilt Andaw in 1596 to
Andaw Paya...............................2 B2
Bandoola Kyaung.......................3 B3
Laymyetnha Paya.......................9 B1
Lokamanaung..........................10 A2
long sandstone slab featuring an engraved enshrine a piece of the tooth relic suppos-
8
Ph Dukkanthein Paya......................4 B2 Mahabodhi Shwegu.................11 B1 lotus flower (a Buddhist motif) growing edly brought from Sri Lanka by King Min-
ar
a Hill
Viewpoint 11
Market.....................................12 B2
Market...................................(see 25)
from a wavy line of water (Brahman motif) bin in the early 16th century. Most likely
Baw C
9 Museum...................................13 B2 and touching an intricately engraved dham- the roofline sikhara date to his later recon
15 Pitaka Taik................................14 B1
machakka (Wheel of the Law). struction, as their slender, terraced style is
re
2 Ratanabon Paya........................15 B2
ek
4 18 16 Ratanamanaung.......................16 B2 Inside the temple’s prayer hall (where at- very different from that found at Shittaung.
Sakyamanaung Paya................17 C2
Hill
Viewpoint
20
International Shittaung.................................18 B2
tendants collect the US$10 entrance for
Telephone 6
Mrauk U
Hotel 5 Station
17 Shittaung Pillar.......................(see 18) Mrauk U and a K1000 ‘light’ fee) you’ll see Ratanabon Paya
2 Shwetaung Paya......................19 C2
10
Shwegudaung several doors ahead. Two lead to passage- This massive stupa (sometimes called Yada-
27
24
Hill SLEEPING ways that encircle the main Buddha image napon), just north of Andaw Paya, is ringed
13 Nawarat Hotel..........................20 B2
1 Palace Prince Hotel.............................21 C2 in the cave hall (which is seen straight by 24 smaller stupas. It was apparently built
Waze
Creek
Site Royal City Guesthouse.............22
Vesali Resort Hotel...................23
B3
C3
ahead). by Queen Shin Htway in 1612. During
25 ek 19
12
e
Cre 21 The far left (southwest) doorway leads to WWII a bomb nailed it, but it had already
ez
22 Al 23
Ponnomyaung
EATING
Da Nya Wadi Restaurant........(see 25)
the outer chamber, a 94m passageway with been picked at by treasure hunters attracted
Daingri
Fortress Moe Cherry..............................24 B2 sandstone slabs cut into six tiers. Over by the name, which means ‘accumulation
Pyae Wa Restaurant.................25 B2
Kan
Site
26
1000 sculptures (perhaps over-illuminated of treasure’. Recent renovations repaired
ek
re TRANSPORT considering the windows) show a lot of de- the enormous bomb-made crack and rein-
3 tC Jetty........................................26 A3
ngda 7
Myataung Taxi Stand................................27 B2
tail of Rakhaing customs (eg traditionally serted the tall chattra (spire).
Au Aungminggala
Fortress Fortress dressed dancers, boxers, acrobats), beasts
To Sittwe (55km)
3 Laythataung of burden, and hundreds of Jataka (scenes Dukkanthein Paya
Fortress
from Buddha’s past 550 lives). At each cor- Across the road to the northwest of Shit-
ner are bigger figures, including the maker taung, the Dukkanthein (the name loosely
King Minbin and his queens at the south- means ‘ordination hall that spiritually rein-
Just inside the western walls, the Depart- Shittaung west corner. The passage exits back into the forces the town’) smacks of a bunker (with
ment of Archaeology’s museum (admission free; The usual starting point is at Mrauk U’s prayer hall on the opposite side. stupas) set impressively on its small bluff
h11am-3pm Mon-Fri) includes a few rooms most complex temple, the Shittaung (Sit- Next to the outer chamber entry is a amid a green field. Wide stone steps lead
with some good pieces culled from area sites taung in Burmese). King Minbin, the most coiling inner chamber leading past dozens of up the south and east side; take the latter
for safe-keeping. Included are Buddha im- powerful of Rakhaing’s kings, built it in Buddha images in niches, passing a Buddha to reach the entrance.
ages, inscripted stone slabs (a 15th-century 1535. It’s a frenzy of stupas of various sizes; footprint where – it’s said – Buddha walked Built by King Minphalaung in 1571 in
one features ancient Arabic writing), reliefs some 26 surround a central stupa. Shit- during his post-enlightenment. Once you get particularly troubled times, Dukkanthein’s
with some original colour intact, cannons, taung means ‘Shrine of the 80,000 Images’, to the dead end, double back to the hall, and
Wethali-era coins and a helpful model of a reference to the number of holy images see if you can feel the passageway becoming
the Mrauk U site. Old photos on the walls inside (the actual tally is more like 84,000, cooler. Some claim it does, symbolising the MRAUK U’S TOP FIVE VIEWS
include a before-restoration shot of Ratan- though some have since been stolen). Thick ‘cooling effect’ of Buddhist teachings. Bagan boasts its sunsets, but Mrauk U’s best
abon’s (opposite) crack. It’s worth poring walls, with windows and nooks, surround Along the outer walls, several reliefs can be vantage spots – great any time of the day –
over the Shittaung pillar replica (see right), the two-tiered structure. A recent (exhaus- seen engraved (some are hard to reach); a few rival it, with smoky refuse fires adding a
which is far easier to make out than the tive) restoration has sadly left much of the on the south side are rather pornographic. spookiness to the hills and temples. Here
deteriorated original. Items are signed in exterior looking more like moulding clay are five goodies:
English. than an ancient ruin. Andaw Paya Shwetaung Paya (p326) is the highest
Off the road just north of the Palace Outside the southwest entrance stair- Immediately northeast of Shittaung stands a in Mrauk U
walls, steps lead up to hilltop Haridaung Paya way, and inside a locked mint-green build- smaller, eight-sided monument with a simi- Haridaung (opposite) has great west-
(built around 1750), a small white paya with ing, is the much-studied Shittaung Pillar, a lar linear layout: rectangular prayer hall ward views
particularly good westward views. 3m sandstone obelisk brought here from to the east, multispired sanctuary to the
Hillock just north of Ratanabon (p326)
Wethali by King Minbin. Considered the west. Sixteen zedi (stupas) are aligned in a
NORTH GROUP ‘oldest history book in Myanmar’ (by the square-cornered U-shape around the south- Ratanamanaung, accessed from the
For many, this area is the pick of the litter Rakhaing at least), three of the obelisk’s ern, northern and western platforms. As at road just west of Sakyamanaung (p326)
for Mrauk U, with all sites within walking four sides are inscribed in a faded Sanskrit. Shittaung, small windows admit light and Hill just east of Lokamanaung, 500m
distance. There are a couple of food stalls Little can be made out now, but there’s a ventilation, but here the fluorescent glare west of the Palace (Map p324)
and a gift shop below the Shittaung. clearer replica at the palace museum, left. is dimmer. Two concentric passageways are
interior features spiralling cloisters lined zedi was erected in 1629 by King Thirithud- under thick vegetation (best not to return Vesali Resort Hotel, this leafy complex of
with images of Buddha and, as per astrolo- hammaraza. At this later stage, stupas were after dark). The views are worth the scrapes: seven bungalows used to be dark and dreary,
gers’ strategic advice to the king, of common built more vertically and ornate than before a full panorama of the Chin Hills, Mrauk U but fixed itself up (somewhat) in 2004. Bam-
people, landlords, governors, officials and (an absorption of Bamar and Shan styles). and the river leading towards Sittwe. boo details fill the rooms, and staff will bring
(notably) their spouses, who famously show The lower half of the well-preserved 85m a bucket of hot water to ease your cold-
off all of Mrauk U’s 64 traditional hairstyles. zedi features a multitiered octagonal shape Festivals & Events shower fears. The hotel also makes up a use-
Along the way, stairs lead off to an ordina- as at Laungbanpyauk Paya, but beyond this A huge weeklong paya pwe (pagoda fes- ful Mrauk U map, and can point you to a
tion hall. The passageway nearly encircles the bells reverts to a layered circular shape tival) is held near Dukkanthein Paya in nearby trail up the hill to Shwetaung Paya.
the centre three times before reaching the mounted by a decorative hti (umbrellalike mid-May. The Mrauk U Hotel, across from the Na-
sun-drenched Buddha image set above the top). At the western gate are a couple of warat, is government-run.
inner stairway. A fine paya pwe is held near half-kneeling, painted giants. Sleeping
the paya in mid-May. To the west is Ratanamanaung, which All hotels offer free breakfast. Electricity Eating & Drinking
The Laymyetnha Paya, 100m north, looks offers fine views. runs from about 5pm to 10pm or 11pm, Mrauk U has few eating options. The Na-
a bit like a squashed-up version of the Duk- unless otherwise noted. warat Hotel has a good restaurant.
kanthein, but was actually built 140 years Kothaung Temple Royal City Guest House (%23808-19; s/d with Moe Cherry (dishes K1000-2000, beer K1500;h11am-
earlier. Inside the unrenovated pagoda, a One of the Mrauk U highlights, this temple shared bathroom US$5/7, r/bungalow US$10/15) A cou- midnight) This traveller-focused, two-storey
round passage is lined with Buddha images. (undergoing heavy restoration at research ple of hundred metres towards town from restaurant, east of the palace walls, serves
time) is a couple of kilometres east of the the docks, this friendly guesthouse is right a few meals and what’s on offer changes
North of Ratanabon Palace. It’s not necessarily the easiest to find on the river and next to two loud timber nightly (there’s no menu; just ask). There’s
Around the hillock northeast of the Rata- by bicycle; locals will point the way. At 69m yards that quieten after dark. Some staff a deliciously Rakhaing edge to the chicken
nabon are a few worthy sites. The first is by 75m, the massive structure is Mrauk U’s members sing lovely Rakhaing folk songs curry, prawn and veggie dishes. At last visit,
this squat hilltop Mahabodhi Shwegu (built in largest. Built in 1553 by King Minbun’s son, to fill the day’s space. New bungalows are the cauliflower dish was a knockout. The
1448), above on the right, with a narrow pas- King Mintaikkha, to outdo his pop’s Shit- across the road. The cheapest rooms are restaurant also arranges car service to the
sageway leading to a 1.8m central Buddha taung by 10,000 images (‘Kothaung’ means very basic and very small (bed, window, Mahamuni Paya or around the sites. In 1998
and four Buddhas in niches. The best are ‘Shrine of 90,000 Images’), much of it was small table and the space to put ’em in). the restaurant was uprooted from its loca-
the 280 Jataka scenes, acrobats, worshippers, found in fragments. Legends vary – that The shared bathroom has no roof (nice for tion on the east side of the palace – along
and animal love scenes (!) engraved onto ei- lightning destroyed it, jewel-seekers over- moonlit tinkles), but is kept quite clean. All with other businesses/homes – by the
ther side of the narrow, arched entry walls. turned walls, or that it was built with infe- beds have mosquito nets. government.
Back on the road, and 120m north, is rior stones by a superstitious king bent on Vesali Resort Hotel (in Yangon %01-526 593; Pyae Wa Restaurant (dishes from K600; h7am-
the octagonal Laungbanpyauk Paya, a slightly beating a six-month timeline. [email protected]; s/d US$30/35) The super- 9pm) The food’s pretty good at this lively
leaning zedi built by King Minkhaungraza Most of the outer passageway is acces- inviting, relaxing bungalows at the Vesali Chinese hole-in-the-wall across from the
in 1525. Some locals call it the ‘Plate Pa- sible. It’s lined with thousands of bas re- come with dark, wooden floors and mos- market, but coming here is more about tak-
goda’ as its outer wall is still adorned with liefs on the walls and Buddha images (some quito nets. Night-lights run all night, but ing in Mrauk U’s main action pedalling by.
glazed platelike tiles in bright colours. En- headless) – probably the most jaw-dropping fans and electricity run only from 5.30pm Veggie noodles are K600; meat dishes keep
circling the zedi are 16 Buddhas in niches detail of Mrauk U. Stairways lead up to a to 11pm or midnight. It’s slightly removed in the gristle just like the locals prefer.
with still-surviving detail. Its restoration top terrace, where restoration is underway from town, and the bulk of the temples. Da Nya Wadi Restaurant (dishes from K500, draught
feels more authentic than some temples. to rebuilt the 108 stupas that once dotted Sometimes discounts can be arranged if you beer K350) It’s another mostly Chinese restau-
At the end of the road, 200m north, the the temple top. book ahead, and the 18 rooms do fill in rant near the market, but this one has white
compact, highly ornate Pitaka Taik is the last winter. Some package tourists. bunnies hopping on the concrete floor.
remaining of the 48 libraries that were in SOUTH GROUP Nawarat Hotel (%24001, in Yangon %01-703 885;
Mrauk U. It was built in 1591 by King Min- South of the palace site, and across the river, fax 01-661 159; s US$30-36, d US$40-48; a) Opened Getting There & Away
phalaung as a repository for the Tripitaka are evocative, easy-to-lose-your-way back in 2001, this hotel is enviously set in walk- For information on the difference between
(Three Baskets; the Buddhist canon), which lanes through thatched-hut villages and a ing distance from the Shittaung temple, the boat services to Mrauk U, see Sittwe
was received from Sri Lanka in the 1640s. host of pagodas. About 1km south, the Lak- but is a tad overpriced. Its bungalow-style (p322). At the time of research, the govern-
It’s wee – only 4m long and 2.7m high. The saykan Gate leads to the eponymous lake, motel units are clean and comfy, if a bit ment boat to Sittwe (US$4, five hours) left at
Pitaka Taik is near the old city wall, which a source of clean water and pride among generic. The higher priced rooms get you 8am on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and
ran east–west just to the north. locals. To the west is the interesting hilltop 24-hour electricity; otherwise power clicks Friday; on other days a private boat (US$10,
Bandoola Kyaung, a monastery where many off from 6pm to 6am. All rooms have four hours) left at the same time. Fast boats
EAST GROUP worshippers climb the steps to see several hot-water tubs, satellite TV, minibar and (US$15 or US$20, three hours) usually de-
Starting east of the Palace walls, this area Buddha images in covered areas. a photo of elephants behind the twin or part at 7.30am. Arrive at least 30 minutes
stretches a couple of kilometres east. Southwest of the Palace, the Shwetaung double beds. The free breakfast is served in early to purchase a ticket for the government
Paya (Golden Hill Pagoda) is the highest in a restaurant open all day. It’s on the pack- or private boat (and have dollars ready), or
Sakyamanaung Paya Mrauk U; you can see it for nearly half the age-tour circuit too. ask your hotel to help beforehand.
Roughly 1km northeast of the Palace walls, trip from Sittwe. Built by King Minbin in Prince Hotel (in Yangon%01-441 0150, 01-286 701; The Mrauk U jetty is about 1km south of
and behind Shwegudaung hill, this graceful 1553, it’s accessed by a few trails largely lost www.mraukuprincehotel.com; r US$15-20) Next to the the market; trishaws meet arriving boats.
328 C H I N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C H I N S TAT E • • T o u r s 329
Getting Around former ancient capital of Dhanyawady, the As in the past, the only way to visit Chin You need to book the trip at least five days
A horse cart around the temples costs about image is one of the country’s most famous State is by seeking (expensive) permission in advance. Apparently the MTT office in
US$8 to US$10 per day. A jeep is about and venerated. Still, it’s fascinating to visit from a Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) New Bagan (p275) can arrange tours, but it
US$20. Hotels can get you a bicycle for the site. office. In addition to the following access seemed a bit up-in-arms about it when last
K2000 or K3000. There’s a taxi stand on the Some Rakhaing believe the image was point, Kalaymyo (in Sagaing Division) is checked; more dependable is pre-arranging
north side of the palace. cast when Buddha visited the area in 554 home to many Chin people, and can be ac- from the MTT office in Yangon (p89). To
BC. Others say the Bamar unknowingly cessed without permission; see p262. save money, ask to meet the guide from
AROUND MRAUK U took a counterfeit back to Amarapura (it Before setting out, it’s best to check with Bagan at a specified date.
It’s not usually possible to visit the sites now resides in Mandalay; p234) and the true MTT in Yangon (p89) for the latest info.
listed following by public transport. A jeep one rests under the banyan tree at the site’s See p313 for more on the Chin people. From Mrauk U
to both runs to about US$25. Also see right southwest corner. The Rakhaing don’t let The one-time popular trips to Chin State
for details of trips to nearby Chin State. go easily. TOURS from Mrauk U were shut down by the gov-
(Note that details change frequently.) The current Konbaung-style shrine dates From Bagan or Yangon ernment in October 2004. Trips are likely
from the 18th or 19th centuries, as earlier At research time, the only way to visit Chin to recommence. Rumours of why the
Wethali ones were destroyed by fire. The Mahamuni State was via a guided trip from Yangon or shutdown occurred range from insurgents
evo;lI Buddha is gone, but ‘Mahamuni’s brother’ Bagan. The trips enter Chin State west of battling government troops to a potential
Almost 10km north of Mrauk U are the is now one of three fine golden images rest- the Chauk Bridge, south of Bagan. Nights entrepreneur negotiating to ‘buy a village’
remains of the kingdom of Wethali (aka Ve- ing inside. Outside, on the southeast wall, are spent in Mindat, and excursions include to corner the tourist market. If tours should
sali, or Waithali in local parlance). Accord- is a 5th-century AD slab depicting a Naga hikes up Mt Victoria (Natmataung), which begin again, it’s likely the government will
ing to the Rakhaing chronicles, Wethali was queen. Down the steps, near the south walls is excellent for bird-watching, and ‘tattooed play a more active (perhaps exploitive) role
founded in AD 327 by King Mahataing of the shrine, is a museum with a couple of women’ villages. Generally trips last three than previously, when a US$30 permis-
Chandra. Archaeologists believe that this dozen relics and engraved stones. An 18th- days. MTT quote prices at US$150 per day sion fee, US$25 boat fee and US$3 for a
kingdom lasted until the 8th century. Lit- century bell, placed nearby to keep invad- per person, which includes a guide, transport horse cart allowed travellers access to Chin
tle remains to see of the oval-shaped city. ers at bay, mysteriously disappeared a few and accommodation in a simple guesthouse. State for far less than trips organised from
Many of the hillocks around the area are years ago. It might be possible to negotiate prices. Bagan.
actually stupas, which have become cov- The hilltop golden stupas visible (barely)
ered. The walls of the 500m by 300m central to the east mark Salagiri Hill, the fabled site
palace site are reasonably well-preserved; where Buddha visited in 554 BC. The area
its prayer hall is now used as an irrigation is closed to foreigners.
tank during the rainy season. The easiest way to get to the site is by
The main attraction for visitors en route hired jeep (about US$20 or US$25 from
to Mahamuni Paya is the so-called Great Mrauk U, including a stop at Wethali). It
Image of Hsu Taung Pre (Pye), home to a 5m takes about three hours from Mrauk U.
Rakhaing-style sitting Buddha. It’s said to Public transport is infrequent.
be carved from a single piece of stone and
date to AD 327 (most visitors argue the
features look more modern). The highly
revered image is swathed in embroidered
CHIN STATE
red holy cloth and attended by monks and xY='"¨p–'ny'
nuns, who live nearby. Just behind are rem- At research time, much of Chin State re-
nants of the moat and stupa-created hill- mained a question mark for travellers.
ocks or two. Across the state line in southern Chin
Regular transport is rare. It’s possible to State, traditional cultures continue more
reach here by bicycle (take the sign that richly than elsewhere in the state. Many
says ‘VSL’ and ‘you are here’ east from the women still have traditionally tattooed
main road). faces, though it’s a fast-fading custom. At
higher elevations, they wear thick, striped
Mahamuni Paya cotton blankets draped over the body, and
mh;mu,i.ur;" copper and bronze ornaments. Among the
Many local Rakhaing recollect, with fresh, Khamui, a subtribe that inhabits lower ele- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
fiery passion, how the Bamar King Bodaw- vations of the area, unmarried women wear restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
paya sent soldiers to dismantle and remove short skirts and little else. Chin men tend to only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
the Mahamuni Buddha in 1784. Originally wear simple Western-style dress. Paletwa
housed here at the Mahamuni Paya, 40km village, just across the state line, is on the everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
north of Mrauk U and just north of the Kaladan River. the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
DIREC TORY 330 www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 331
DIREC TORY
Directory LICENSED TO SLEEP?
Foreigners are only allowed to stay at ‘licensed’ hotels and guesthouses, which means that es-
tablishments keep at least five rooms and reach a certain standard. In the past, some owners
hotels are run as joint ventures with Singa- bent the rules in less visited towns, but that seems to be waning. Staff will often say ‘we have
pore, Thailand, Japan and other countries. no rooms’ instead of owning up that they lack the license. Other places post the license clearly –
CONTENTS on the door or on the entry wall.
Prices At night, all hotels and other accommodation options must fill in police forms on behalf of
Accommodation 330 Nearly all hotels quote prices in US dol- all guests, which include the details of your visa and your passport number. Hotels will not have
Activities 332 lars or the fast-fading Foreign Exchange to keep your passport, however.
Business Hours 334 Certificates (FEC; see p345). If you pay in
Children 334 kyat, the price will be quoted at a slightly
Climate charts 335 unfavourable rate (say K1000 for every Staying at cheapie guesthouses means that
Courses 335 US$1 asked for, instead of the exchange less money is directed this way. Essentially,
Customs 336
PRACTICALITIES rate of K950). Prices quoted at budget and no guesthouses in the country have direct
Dangers & Annoyances 336 When it’s working: 230V, 50Hz AC midrange hotels include all taxes; usually government ties.
Disabled Travellers 338 electricity. Most power outlets have top-end hotel prices don’t include the 10%
Discount Cards 339 two-pronged round or flat sockets. government tax and 10% service charge in Government Hotels
Embassies & Consulates 339 their quoted prices. The government – the Ministry of Hotels
Outside Yangon, no-one in Myanmar
Festivals & Events 340 The vast majority of hotels, apart from & Tourism (MHT) to be more precise –
calls an ambulance in an emergency;
Food 342 top-end ones, have a two-tier pricing sys- directly operates a dwindling number of
they go to the hospital. You could call
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 342 tem (for foreigners or locals) and often two hotels around the country. Travellers keen
top-end hotels in a crisis and ask about
Holidays 342 or more types of rooms for each. In some to minimise the money going into the gov-
English-language doctors.
Insurance 342 cases shoestringers can insist on staying in ernment’s coffers should avoid staying at
Internet Access 342 All guesthouses and hotels wash dirty a ‘local’ room, which is often a cubicle wall these hotels, which are often empty and/or
Legal Matters 343 laundry, starting at K1000 for a small with a hard mattress, a fan (maybe), and a poorly cared for. See the boxed text, p332,
Maps 343 load. cold-water shared bathroom. Often there for more information on this.
Money 344 Yangon publishes two English-language are two ‘foreigner’ room types too; a few
Photography & Video 346 newspapers: Myanmar Times, which extra dollars gives you air-con instead of a Guesthouses
Post 346 offers some useful travel and fan, a private bathtub rather than a private Considering the absence of hostels and
Shopping 346 entertainment information, and the (or shared) shower, and satellite TV instead camping options, the (usually family-run)
Solo Travellers 349 serious government mouthpiece of local TV or no TV at all. Almost all ho- guesthouses are the de-facto sleeping op-
Telephone 349 New Light of Myanmar. Two tourism- tels offer a free breakfast of eggs, toast and tion for shoestringers. Rates range from
Time 350 related magazines are harder to come coffee or tea; occasionally the traditional US$3 to US$8 or so – a little higher in
Toilets 350 by: Perspectives and Enchanting mohinga (noodles with fish or chicken)
Tourist Information 350 Myanmar. breakfast is offered – it’s definitely worth
TOP CHEAP SLEEPS
Visas 351 trying.
All national radio and TV broadcasts Sometimes it’s not money that makes a
Volunteering 352 It’s possible to bargain at most hotels,
are state controlled. Many locals listen place so homey and right that it feels wrong
Women Travellers 352 especially during the low season (March to
to short-wave radios for BBC and VOA to leave. Here are three places that we
October). Most people checking in early –
broadcasts. Satellite TV has brought
ACCOMMODATION some dramatic changes in recent
say if they’re arriving off an overnight bus, enjoyed.
Outside the touristy destinations – Yangon, which often gets in at around 6am or 7am – Mya Yatanar Inn, Pakokku (p280) Crusty,
years, with CNN, MTV Asia, BBC World
Bagan (Pagan), Mandalay, Inle Lake and are only charged for the following night. but ‘real Myanmar’ all the way – more home than
Service and – sacre bleu! – Fashion TV
Ngapali Beach – most accommodation op- Most hotel staff speak some English and guesthouse actually – run by a former boxing coach
all piping in.
tions hover between bare-bones guesthouses can certainly help you exchange money at and his wife; K3500.
with concrete floors and cold-water showers The standard video system in Myanmar good rates, but not always the best. In some Myanmar Beauty Guest House IV, Taungoo
down the hall to Chinese-style hotels with is NTSC, but many people also own cases, staff will charge some commission, (p291) Myanmar’s biggest breakfast is served in this
green carpet, minibar, satellite TV, private PAL models, which are compatible often at the same rate you’ll find on the street. teak home amid rice paddies, palms and mountains;
bathroom with hot water, and some wood with Thailand, Australia and most of The staff is also usually well informed about from US$8.
carvings perhaps. Some places are quite Europe. travellers’ needs, and can help arrange a Viewpoint, near Kalaw (p176) While this is
comfy and well cared for. Joint-venture ho- 1 Burmese viss or 100 ticals = 1.6kg; taxi, rent a bicycle or (importantly) procure more of a place for a curry and to enjoy the views,
tels and a few locally run ones offer high- 1 gaig = 91cm; petrol is sold by the ever-confusing bus or train tickets. In all, it makes a good place to spend the night if you can
class comfort and service at prices soaring gallon; distances are in miles, not their help is invaluable. organise it; the Viewpoint is atop a mountain and
from US$100 to US$500. Nearly all accom- kilometres. Note that a 10% tax (at least) on all hotel charges K1500 for bed and curry.
modation is privately run. Some top-end payments goes straight to the government.
DIREC TORY 332 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 333
DIREC TORY
Yangon. Some are lovingly cared for, some ACTIVITIES
aren’t. In some towns one guesthouse is the See p33 for an itinerary in Myanmar that RESPONSIBLE DIVING & SNORKELLING
lone option – and you get what you get. For features a number of activities. If you want to enjoy Myanmar’s underwater realm, remember these simple rules to minimise your
most, variables include concrete or bubbly impact:
vinyl floor; private or shared bathroom; hot Bird-Watching Don’t use anchors on a reef and ask your operators not to either
or cold water; local, satellite or no TV; air- The nation’s best bird-watching is to be
Be conscious of your fins or your body dragging across fragile reef ecosystems – both parties
con or fan or nada. Usually a mark left by found on the hike up Mt Victoria in Chin
in question can be hurt
a bumped suitcase on the wall is left there, State, presently accessed only through ex-
as are – in the grubbiest places – squashed pensive government-sponsored tours (see Take out all rubbish or litter, including what you find; plastic in particular can wreak havoc on
mosquitoes. p329). marine life
Don’t feed fish; it disturbs their normal eating habits and can prompt aggressive behaviour
Hotels & Resorts Cycling If you’re diving in the Myeik Peninsula, be sure that you possess a current diving certification card
‘Hotels’ means everything from eight-room Some cycling groups have made it on tours
guesthouses that strategically use the name to Myanmar. But you don’t have to be on a Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region to the next – dive
to joint-venture hotels with lush gardens tour to enjoy cycling here. only within the limits of your experience
surrounding a giant pool. Rates range from The most popular route is between Man-
US$8 to well over US$100. dalay and Bagan, via Myingyan. This is a
Many of the midrange hotels are modern, fairly flat route that keeps to the east of the full-day snorkelling trips. It’s no Great Bar- though murmurs of government involve-
Chinese-style multistorey jobbies. In more Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. For some- rier Reef, but there are plenty of fish to see ment surround many. In some towns, locals
touristy locations, some are bungalow-style, thing more hilly and scenic, go northeast swimming around a coral tower or two. can’t be members. Green fees skyrocket above
with porches and a sitting garden where of Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin, Hsipaw and The best diving, by far, is at the Mergui the prices for locals, with some courses charg-
breakfast is served. Doubles at these range Lashio. Some of that road has dividers, (Myeik) Archipelago in southwestern My- ing US$15 or US$20 to play. Be aware that
from US$20 to US$35. meaning no oncoming traffic swaying into anmar, which apparently received no dam- some female caddies double as sex workers.
Those more accustomed to high-end your lane. Another very scenic route starts age from the 2004 tsunami. Presently trips
comfort will find escaping the main travel in Thazi (accessible by train) and runs east here can be arranged in advance through Rafting
destinations harder to stomach. Upmarket through hilly Kalaw and Pindaya to Inle Phuket-based operators, some of whom Since 2003 Ultimate Descents (www.ultimatedes
hotels, including some joint-venture, lux- Lake. were gearing up to make the trips following cents.com) has enabled paddlers to make the
ury resorts with standards rivalling those Short trips out of Mandalay to Monywa, the tsunami. A typical trip involves seven first trips down some key tributaries of the
in Thailand, are found in Yangon, Bagan, Sagaing, Inwa (Ava) and Amarapura also nights onboard a boat, and includes meals, Ayeyarwady in northern Kachin State, at
Ngapali Beach and Mt Popa. Slightly less make satisfying rides. equipment and transport from Phuket the foothills of the Himalaya. It’s best to get
classy options can be found in Mandalay, See p360 for more on bringing bicycles or Ranong (Thailand). Diving or diving/ in touch with the local contact, Ayeyarwaddy
Inle Lake, Pyin U Lwin, Chaungtha Beach, into the country. kayaking trips cost from about US$1200 to Expeditions (in Yangon%01-652 809; thelisu@myanmar
Ngwe Saung and Kyaiktiyo (the Golden US$1500; longer ones that take in part of .com.mm; Suite 03-06, Sedona Hotel, Yangon), to set up a
Rock). Most upmarket hotels are in the Diving & Snorkelling Thailand are pricier. Many of the islands trip. Four-day trips (with two days’ trekking)
US$70 to US$100 price range, but some The beach resorts of Ngapali Beach (p314) reached are isolated, with good kayaking on the Nam Lang River start at US$800 per
reach US$500 a night. andChaungthaBeach(p135 ) )offerhalf-and
) possibilities. Phuket outfitters must negoti- person (and are run weekly from October to
ate deals with the Myanmar government, April). The very serious, experienced-only
and we hear that sometimes a government three-week descent of the Mayhka River
WHERE DOES THE ACCOMMODATION MONEY GO? official tags along for the ride. Trips run (Mother River; aka ‘the Everest of Rivers’)
The big question on the minds of travellers keen to avoid government-run businesses – what’s weekly from November to April. costs US$10,000 to US$15,000 per person.
government run? – is not always the easiest to answer. In recent years the government has leased The first trip to the archipelago was in
some of its deteriorated hotels to foreign businesses in the form of joint ventures, or to private 1996. Some companies work to educate lo- Trekking
entrepreneurs, who often face insurmountable odds to right the ship. Throughout this book we cals regarding the negative impact of dyna- Great hiking potential abounds in northern
flag government-run services and hotels (see the tips on p24), or ones recently leased. Note mite fishing and logging. and eastern Myanmar, particularly in Shan
that the situation at each place could change – and, hopefully, will in the case of Pyin U Lwin Reliable outfitters: State. Here are some popular hikes:
(Maymyo), where the government runs hotels out of some lovely old British homes. Asian Adventures (www.asian-adventures.com) Hsipaw area (p208) Five hours northeast of Mandalay;
Joint-venture hotels, often rebuilt from scratch at great expense, generally work on a 30-year Fantasea Divers (www.fantasea.net) offering fine DIY day hikes.
lease basis. Big operations do employ many locals, and often at higher wages than elsewhere. Faraway Sail & Dive (www.far-away.net) Kalaw to Inle Lake (p208) Longhouses and teahouses
However, it’s not really known what amount in fees or profit share (beyond the 10% tax) goes South East Asia Liveaboards Co (http://seal-asia.com) freckle the mountain tops on this highlight trek.
to the government. Some claim it’s zero, though others dispute this. Kengtung Area (p196) A very remote area (reached by
It’s worth noting that essentially every local has a brother, sister-in-law or uncle that’s in either Golf air from central Myanmar) near the Thai border; hikes take
the military or the government. Golf courses are everywhere – little towns in villages of the Wa people (former head-hunters).
All this doesn’t necessarily mean that profits go into the generals’ pockets. It’s estimated that such as Salay (p279) even have rather brown Namhsan (p213) North of Hsipaw; guided hikes in a
over 80% of tourists’ expenditure on the ground gets absorbed into local economies. courses. Pyin U Lwin (p204) hosts a tourna- far-flung area.
ment in April. Many courses are ‘private’, Pindaya area (p178) Near Inle Lake.
DIREC TORY 334 D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C l i m a t e C h a r t s 335
DIREC TORY
rewarding as long as you come well pre- CLIMATE CHARTS forgoing music, dancing, jewellery, perfume
SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR HIKING pared with the right attitude, the physical Myanmar has three seasons that follow the and high or luxurious beds. Daily sched-
We’ve heard about some travellers finding requirements and the usual parental pa- classic ‘dry and hot, wet and hot, dry and ules are rigorous and may involve nearly
new paths and staying in the hills for a week tience. Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children, less hot’ pattern common to other parts of continuous practice from 3am till 11pm.
or more. Most, however, stick with day trips. by Cathy Lanigan, contains useful advice mainland Southeast Asia. Rain falls mostly Students may be given permission to travel
Here are a few points to consider before on how to cope with kids on the road and from mid-May to October. In most places, in Myanmar at the end of a long period of
lacing up the boots: what to bring along to make things go more temperatures fall from November to Febru- study, but this is not automatic. Western-
smoothly. Special attention is paid to travel ary, then rise from March through to May. ers who have undergone the training say
Hike with at least one companion; in
in developing countries. See p27 for more information on the best it is not recommended for people with no
most cases it’s best to hire a guide
Myanmar people love children – dote on times to visit. previous meditation experience.
Do not venture by foot into areas them – and in many instances will shower
restricted to foreigners; ask around attention on your offspring, who will find MANDALAY 74m (250ft)
Average
Max/Min VISAS
before taking off ready playmates among their local coun- °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm For practice sessions of less than a month, a
Camping in the hills is not technically terparts and an impromptu nanny service 40 104 100 12 300 tourist visa will suffice. To obtain the nec-
legal, as foreigners must be registered at practically every stop. 30 86 75
essary ‘special-entry visa’ for a long-term
with local authorities by owners of Due to Myanmar’s overall low level of 8 200 stay of more than a month, applicants must
‘licensed accommodation’ nightly public sanitation, parents ought to lay down 20 68 50 receive a letter of invitation from the centre
Trail conditions can get slippery and
a few ground rules with regard to maintain- 4 100 where they would like to study, which may
10 50 25
dangerous, especially in the rainy season
ing their children’s health – such as regular in turn require a letter of introduction from
hand-washing – to head off potential medi- 0 32 0 0 0 an affiliated meditation centre abroad. This
Walk only in regions within your cal problems. All the usual health precau- J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
invitation is then presented to a Myanmar
capabilities – you’re not going to find a tions apply (see the Health chapter on p369); consulate or embassy, which will issue a
trishaw out there to bring you back children should especially be warned not to visa for an initial stay of six to 12 weeks, as
Average
YANGON 14m (46ft) Max/Min
play with animals they encounter along the recommended by the centre. It takes eight
°C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
way, as a precaution against rabies. 40 104 100 12 300
to 10 weeks to be issued, and cannot be is-
In the past it wasn’t feasible to do multiday Nappies (diapers) are hard to come by sued while you’re in Myanmar on a tourist
treks – at least not legally – but the practice outside Yangon, but it’s wise to bring all 30 86 75 visa. The special-entry visa, however, may
8 200
is opening up. Generally it’s necessary to the nappies or formula you’ll need for the be extended in Yangon.
20 68 50
hire a guide (licensed or otherwise). Rates trip from home. Most high-end hotels and
range from US$4 to US$10 per day, and are restaurants will have high chairs available. 10 50 25
4 100
CENTRES IN YANGON
about US$25 in more remote Kengtung. The most famous centre in Yangon is the
Climbs up Chin State’s Mt Victoria (p329) Sights & Activities 0 32
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0
Ma hasi Meditation Centre (Map p90; %01-541 971;
require you to take a costly government- Kids, like adults, often get a thrill from little 16 Thathana Yeiktha Rd, Bahan Township), founded in
sponsored tour. things such as rides on trishaws, motorised 1947 by the late Mahasi Sayadaw, perhaps
canoes and horse carts. While in Bagan, COURSES Myanmar’s greatest meditation teacher. The
BUSINESS HOURS give your driver (if you have one) the day Meditation Mahasi Sayadaw technique strives for in-
Most government offices – including post off and take a horse cart around by your- For foreigners interested in meditation, tensive, moment-to-moment awareness of
offices and official telephone centres – are selves (p269). Inle Lake’s famous boat trips Yangon provides the most opportunities for every physical movement, every mental and
open Monday to Friday from 9.30am to (p191) are in dugout canoes. The ancient the study and practice of satipatthana vipas- physical sensation, and, ultimately, every
4.30pm. Don’t arrive at a government of- cities outside Mandalay offer fun, brief sana, or insight-awareness meditation. This thought. The centre is off Kaba Aye Paya
fice at 4pm expecting to get anything done, boat trips. Options include rowing boats in is based on instructions in the Maha Sati- Rd, north of Kandawgyi, about 10 minutes
though; most government workers start the lake by Amarapura’s U Bein’s Bridge patthana Sutta of the Theravada Buddhist from the city centre or 20 minutes from the
drifting to the local teashops after 3.30pm. (p248), a flat-bed ferry and then an ox-cart canon, and instruction at most places is in airport. Mahasi is funded by donations.
Private shops are generally open daily loop around Inwa (p251), and a boat ride English. Many Westerners have come to My- Two of the Mahasi centre’s chief medita-
from 9am (or 9.30am) to 6pm or later. up the Ayeyarwady to Mingun (p254). anmar to practise at the various centres for tion teachers, Sayadaw U Pandita and Say-
Most restaurants – even ones without many Big Buddhist sights and ancient ruins periods ranging from 10 days to more than adaw U Janaka, have established their own
breakfast visitors – open at 7am or 8am and can be good gawking material, including a year. Visitors typically attach themselves to highly regarded centres in Yangon: Pandita-
close late, at 9pm or 10pm. Internet cafés, Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya (p90), the reclin- a respected sayadaw (master teacher) in the rama Meditation Centre (%01-535 448; http://web
where they exist, tend to keep shorter hours. ing Buddhas in Bago (Pegu; see p140) or Buddhist tradition for the duration. .ukonline.co.uk/buddhism/pandita.htm; 80-A Than Lwin Rd,
Payas (Buddhist monuments), including the 10-storey Buddha in Pyay (Prome; see Bahan Township) and Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation
pahto (temples), never close. p283). You can climb into the back of the CONDITIONS Centre (%01-661 479; www.chanmyay.org; 55-A Kaba
lacquered Buddha image at Nan Paya in Food and lodging are generally provided Aye Paya Rd). Both have second branches. Pan-
CHILDREN Salay (p279). Some kids might dig ruins of at no charge at the centres, but medita- ditarama’s is 3km northeast off the high-
As in many places in Southeast Asia, travel- old palace walls and moats, which you can tors must follow eight precepts, which in- way to Bago; Chanmyay’s branch (%01-620
ling with children in Myanmar can be very see at Bagan and Mrauk U; see p323. clude abstaining from food after noon and 321), set among gardens in Hmawbi, is a
DIREC TORY 336 D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 337
DIREC TORY
50-minute drive north of Yangon. Each of and it will be confiscated. There’s no prob- Monkeys, too, can get a little friendly Yangon were reported, without injuries, in
these centres represents a slight difference lem if you’re on a business visa. in some places. A guide outside Monywa mid-2004 and mid-2003. An explosion in
from the Mahasi Sayadaw technique. Any foreign currency in excess of US$2000 pointed out natural medicines for ‘not May 2003 in a cinema in Pyu, near Bago,
Another famous centre is Yangon’s Inter- must be declared upon entry. We’ve heard shitting’, ‘shitting’ and ‘snakebite’, but said killed one and injured 47 people.
national Meditation Centre (%01-535 549; 31-A Inya reports of travellers being arrested for bring- there’s nothing for monkey bites. ‘Monkey Despite treaties between the government
Myaing Rd), founded by the late U Ba Khin. ing in US$4000 undeclared. It’s problem free bite is normal’, he said. But we think you and most insurgent groups in the late 1990s
The U Ba Khin technique focuses on a deep to declare – just a form to fill out. Mobile should try to minimise your chances of get- that give limited autonomy to many areas,
appreciation of impermanence and on con- phones may be confiscated and held by ting rabies (see p374). violent incidents on the Myanmar-Thai
sciously moving or ‘sweeping’ one’s mental customs personnel upon when you arrive border could erupt at any time, includ-
awareness throughout the body. Instruction at Yangon international airport; they’ll be Crime ing several outbursts (and bombs) in and
at all of the above centres is given to foreign- returned upon your departure. Most travellers’ memories of locals grab- around Tachileik. Land mines are another
ers in English. See p349 for a list of items that cannot be bing your money are of someone chasing threat (on the Myanmar side of the border).
Another Yangon centre is the Dhamma Joti taken out of the country. you down because you dropped a K500 note Most travel advisories warn against travel in
Vipassana Centre (%01-549 290; Nga Htat Gyi Paya Rd, (about US$0.50) in the street (‘you dropped this area, most of which is restricted to for-
Bahan Township). DANGERS & ANNOYANCES this, sister’). In remote towns such as Shwebo eigners. Crossing the border here, though,
For further information on the teachings Considering all the bad news that trickles or Monywa, you can feel pretty confident is likely to be OK, but seek advice first.
of Mahasi Sayadaw and U Ba Khin, read Liv- out of Myanmar, it may sound like a rather leaving a bag on the ground at a bus station In Kayin State, splintered Kayin groups
ing Dharma: Teachings of Twelve Buddhist unsafe country to visit. For the vast majority while you go for a quick tea. But don’t tempt live in a potential battleground between
Masters, edited by Jack Kornfield. of visitors, the truth is quite the opposite. anyone: inflation is rising in an already poor the Karen National Liberation Army and
country (that K500 note is worth at least a government troops. The Myanmar border
CENTRES OUTSIDE YANGON Air Travel half-day’s work for many). There has been in a restricted area of Kayin between Um
Meditation centres can be found outside Yan- Government-operated Myanma Airways a smattering of reports of street crime, par- Phang and Mae Sariang occasionally receives
gon, particularly in Sagaing, which is Myan- has a sketchy safety record. In 1994 a flight ticularly in Yangon, which include burglaries shelling from Myanmar troops in pursuit of
mar’s principal monastic centre in terms of missed the runway at Kawthoung, killing of some expats’ homes. Exercise guarded Kayin (also known as Karen) or Mon rebels.
numbers of monks, nuns, monasteries and 16; in 1998 it took authorities 24 hours to caution on vulnerable occasions – ie when The risks of catching a piece of shrapnel
nunneries. In Sagaing, Kyaswa Kyaung (%072- realise one of its planes had crash-landed you’re carrying your bags – and when in are substantially lower if you keep several
21541; [email protected], [email protected]) near Tachileik, while another flight crashed particularly touristy places. kilometres between yourself and the Thai-
hosts a Mahasi Sayadaw–style retreat ori- en route from Thandwe (Sandoway) to Sit- Myanmar border in this area – fighting can
ented towards foreigners, under the direc- twe, killing 10 passengers. Electricity, or Lack Thereof break out at any time.
tion of Sayadaw U Lakkhana. Power outages everywhere – Yangon and The presence of Shan and Wa armies
Just south of Mawlamyine (Moulmein), Bugs, Snakes, Rats & Monkeys Mandalay included – can render your fan along the Myanmar-Thai border in northern
Venerable Pak Auk Sayadaw teaches sati- Mosquitoes, if unfended, can have a field day useless for hours. Many smaller towns have Mae Hong Son makes this area dangerous if
patthana vipassana using a penetrative and with you. As a Burmese character in George outright short scheduled periods for elec- you attempt to travel near amphetamine-
highly technical approach at Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Orwell’s Burmese Days says: ‘At night, mas- tricity, such as a few hours in the afternoon and opium-trade border crossings (off lim-
Monastery (%032-22132; www.paauk.org; c/o Major ter too drunk to notice mosquitoes; in the (or in the evening if Myanmar TV is air- its to foreigners); obviously, these aren’t
Kan Saing, 653 Lower Main Rd) in Pa-Auk village. morning, mosquitoes too drunk to notice ing a premiership game). Many hotels and signposted, so take care anywhere along the
It’ll cost you though – about US$1479 for a master’. As alcohol won’t help, bring repel- shops run generators 24 hours, and won’t border in this area.
month, including lodging and meals. lent from home, as the good stuff (other than be affected. In the past there have been reports of
mosquito coils) is hard to come by here. bandits holding up vehicles at night, most
CUSTOMS Also, many guesthouses and hotels don’t Insurgents & Bombs commonly in the Tanintharyi (Tenasserim)
Besides personal effects, visitors are permit- have mosquito nets. See also entries on ma- Just before this book went to press, Myan- division in southeastern Myanmar – often
ted to bring in the following items duty free: laria (p373) and dengue fever (p372). mar saw some bombs set off, purportedly in pockets restricted to overland travel for
two cartons of cigarettes, 100 cigars, 0.67kg Myanmar has one of the highest inci- placed there by insurgent groups. In May foreigners.
of tobacco, 500mL of cologne or perfume dences of death from snakebite in the world. 2005 three bombs at two Yangon shopping Some ‘revolutionaries’ maintain the sym-
and two bottles of liquor. Technically, cam- Watch your step in brush, forest and grasses. centres and a Thai trade expo killed up to pathy of most locals. In the aftermath of
eras (including video cameras), radios, cas- See p377 for information on what to do if 20 people and injured several hundred. the 1990 election controversy (see p44), a
sette players and iPods can be brought into you’re bitten. (At first, the junta blamed the USA for the group of student protestors hijacked a plane
the country, but they’re supposed to be de- Rats aren’t all that rampant. Family-run incident; no-one has claimed responsibil- from Bangkok to get worldwide attention,
clared on arrival and taken out upon depar- guesthouses, like regular homes, might have ity.) During the previous month a bomb and tearfully handed out snacks with apolo-
ture. In reality no-one ever seems to check, a rodent or two. Wash your hands before killed at least three at a Mandalay market. gies to the inconvenienced passengers.
and if you try to declare your cameras on sleeping (we’ve heard of happy rats licking In December 2004 a small bomb went off
arrival you’re usually waved on through. If cake-covered fingers clean at night) and try at a central Yangon restaurant, injuring one Politics
you’re holding a tourist visa, it’s possible to keep food out of your room. If you trek in person. The Vigorous Burmese Student Talking politics can get not only you but also
that a laptop computer may make customs Shan State and stay in local accommodation, Warriors supposedly claimed responsibil- the locals you’re speaking with into trouble.
officials suspicious that you are a journalist, you may hear little footsteps at night. ity for this act. A few other explosions in Let them introduce the subject and proceed
DIREC TORY 338 D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s a b l e d T r a v e l l e r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s c o u n t C a r d s 339
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to talk with discretion. Human-rights activ- to commissions. These small behind-the- can contact are Accessible Journeys (www.disability Switzerland (%022-731 7540; 47 ave Blanc, 1202 Geneva)
ist James Mawdsley was arrested in 1999 scenes payments are made, like it or not, for travel.com), which includes info on visiting the Thailand (%02 233-2237; 132 Thanon Sathon Neua,
after handing out political leaflets; he was a taxi or trishaw driver or guide who takes dodgy border near Tachileik; Mobility Interna- Bangkok 10500)
freed after 415 days. (He describes the ex- you to a hotel, to buy a puppet or even to tional USA (www.miusa.org) and the Society for Ac- UK (%020-7499 8841; 19A Charles St, London W1X 5DX)
perience in his 2002 book The Iron Road: A eat some rice. Often it doesn’t affect the cessible Travel & Hospitality (www.sath.org), which USA (%202-332-9044/5/6; 2300 S St NW, Washington,
Stand for Truth and Democracy in Burma.) price you pay. publishes the magazine Open World. DC 20008)
Following the 10th anniversary of the 1988 Arriving at a bus station, you’re likely to Vietnam (%04-823 2056; Bldg No A-3, Ground fl, Van
democracy demonstrations, 18 foreigners be quickly surrounded by touts, some of DISCOUNT CARDS Phuc Diplomatic Qrtrs, Kim Ma St, Hanoi)
were arrested for handing out leaflets. In Jan- whom will try to steer you to a particular No can do. However, we’ve heard some
uary 2005 another Westerner was arrested hotel that offers them a commission. Be travellers managing to get a discount with Embassies & Consulates in Myanmar
for handing out leaflets outside Yangon’s wary if you hear that your chosen place is an International Student Identity Card Yangon can be a good place to get visas for
City Hall. ‘no good’, though in some cases we found (ISIC) at monuments in the past. It’s more other countries; because it isn’t a big tourist
Be aware that if you’re interested in see- that trishaw drivers who had warned us likely that amused staff wanted to give the stopover, visas are usually issued quickly.
ing Aung San Suu Kyi’s house in Yangon, ‘foreigners can’t stay there’ ended up being travellers what they wanted than any bur- However, embassies for neighbouring
or are dropping by an NLD office, you not correct. If you know where you want to go geoning policy change. Senior-citizen cards countries accept only US dollars for pay-
only risk trouble (possible deportation) but (and it’s a good idea to pretend to, if you are also unlikely to save any money. ment of visa fees.
you implicate your taxi or trishaw driver don’t), persist and they’ll take you. Australia (Map p102; %01-251 810, 01-251 809; fax
too. Guides, trishaw drivers, vendors and See p321 for an example of a commis- EMBASSIES & CONSULATES 01-246 159; 88 Strand Rd)
hotel staff are often able to talk at length sions monopoly, which can apply in many Myanmar Embassies & Consulates Bangladesh (%01-515 275; 11B Thanlwin Rd,
with foreigners without suspicion due to places. Contact details for some Myanmar embas- Kamayut Township)
their day-to-day contact with foreigners. Bus tickets in Yangon are sometimes sold sies and consulates: Cambodia (Map p90; %01-549 609; 25 New University
Some can be surprisingly frank in their at inflated prices; see p89. Australia (%02-6273 3811; 22 Arkana St, Yarralumla, Ave, B3/4)
views. Teahouses carry the reputation as Be wary of offers of fanciful jade or other ACT 2600) Canada Affairs handled by Australian embassy
being open-discussion forums for some gems – Myanmar has rich mines for these Bangladesh (%02-60 1915; 89B, Rd No 4, Banani, Dhaka) China (Map p98; %01-221 281; 1 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
locals – but not all. Again, let the local lead precious stones – as some are filled with Cambodia (%023-213663; 181 Preah Norodon Blvd, France (Map p98; %01-212 523, 01-212 532; 102
the conversation that way. worthless rock or concrete mixture. Boeung Keng Kang 1, Phnom Penh) Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
Many people may approach to say ‘hello’ Canada (%613-232 6434/46; Apt 902-903, 85 Range Germany (Map p90; %01-548 951; fax 01-548 899; 32
Restricted Roads on the street. In some cases, they’re just Rd, The Sandringham, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J6) Nat Mauk Rd)
Many overland roads are closed to foreign- curious or perhaps want to practice some China (%010-6532 1584/6; 6 Dong Zhi Men Wai St, India (Map p102; %01-282 933; 545-547 Merchant St)
ers. However, in places you can enter there English. In other cases, the conversation Chaoyang District, Beijing 100600) Indonesia (Map p98; %01-254 465, 01-254 469; 100
are (perhaps) surprising levels of freedom switches from ‘what country you from?’ to France (%01 42 25 56 95; 60 rue de Courcelles, 75008 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
to stop and look around where you want. ‘buy some postcards?’ or ‘where you need Paris) Israel (Map p86; %01-515 155; fax 01-515 116; 15
See the map on p359 to see which areas of to go?’ It’s all pretty harmless. Germany (%030-206 1570; Zimmerstrasse 56, 10117 Kabaung Rd, Hlaing Township)
Myanmar were closed to travellers at the You’ll be asked to change money fre- Berlin) Italy (Map p90; %01-527 100; 3 Inya Myaing Rd)
time of research. quently. See p345 for tips on doing so with India (%011-688 9007/8; No 3/50F Nyaya Marg, Japan (Map p90; %01-549 644; 100 Nat Mauk Rd)
caution. Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021) Korea (Map p90; %01-527 142; 97 University Ave Rd)
Scams & Hassle Indonesia (%021-327 684; 109 Jalan Haji Agus Salim, Laos (Map p98; %01-222 482; A1 Diplomatic Quarters,
Myanmar touts are pretty minor-league in DISABLED TRAVELLERS Jakarta Pusat) Taw Win St)
comparison with those in India or the tuk- With its lack of paved roads or footpaths Israel (%03-517 0760; 26 Hayarkon St, Tel Aviv 68011) Malaysia (Map p98; %01-220 249; 82 Pyidaungsu
tuk drivers in Bangkok. Most hassle is due (and even when they’re present the latter Italy (%06-854 3974, 06-858 63343; Viale Gioacchino Yeiktha Rd)
are often uneven) Myanmar presents many Rossini, 18, Int 2, 00198 Rome) Nepal (Map p90; %01-545 880; fax 01-549803; 16 Nat
physical obstacles for the mobility-impaired. Japan (%03-3441 9291; 8-26, 4-chome, Kita-Shinagawa, Mauk Rd)
ONLINE TRAVEL ADVISORIES Rarely do public buildings feature ramps Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 140-0001) Netherlands Affairs handled by German embassy
Governments’ advisory websites for people or other access points for wheelchairs, and Laos (%021-314910; Thanon Sok Pa Luang, PO Box 11, New Zealand Affairs handled by UK embassy
travelling to Myanmar: hotels make inconsistent efforts to provide Vientiane) Pakistan (Map p98; %01-222 881; 4A Pyay Rd)
Australia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au) Click on access to the handicapped (exceptions in- Malaysia (%03-4256-0280; 10 Jalan Mengkuang, Philippines (Map p86; %01-558 149; 50 Saya San Rd)
‘Travel Advisories’. clude the Strand Hotel and the Traders 55000 Kuala Lumpur) Singapore (%01-559 001; 238 Dhama Zedi Rd)
Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca) Hotel in Yangon; both have some ramping). Nepal (%01-521 788; Chakupat, Patan Gate, Lalitpur, Sri Lanka (Map p98; %01-222 812; 34 Taw Win St)
UK (%0870 606 0290; www.fco.gov.uk) The Hence you’re pretty much left to your own Kathmandu) Sweden Affairs handled by UK embassy
most comprehensive; click on Travel Advice and resources. Public transport is particularly Philippines (%02-817 2373; 4th fl, Xanland Center, Switzerland Affairs handled by German embassy
select Burma. crowded and difficult, even for the fully 152Amorsolo St, Legaspi Village, Makati, Manila) Thailand (%01-224 550; 73 Manaw Han St)
USA (travel.state.gov) See the Consular Information mobile. Singapore (%735-0209; 15 St Martin’s Dr, Singapore UK (Map p102; %01-256 918; fax 01-254 657; 80 Strand Rd)
Sheet for Burma. For wheelchair travellers, any trip to My- 257996) USA (Map p102; %01-379 880; fax 01-256 018; 581
anmar will require a good deal of planning. South Korea (%02-792-3341; 723-1/724-1 Hannam-Dong Merchant St)
A few useful USA-based organisations you Yongsam-ku, Seoul 140-210) Vietnam (Map p90; %01-548 905; 36 Wingaba Rd)
DIREC TORY 340 D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 341
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS Union Day (12 February) This day marks Bogyoke Aung Water Festival (or Thingyan) This is the celebration of areas, and notably at Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya, there
Traditionally, Myanmar follows a 12-month San’s short-lived achievement of unifying Myanmar’s the Myanmar New Year. See opposite for more details. are also speed-weaving competitions to produce robes
lunar calendar, so the dates of old holidays disparate ethnic groups. For two weeks preceding Union Workers’ Day (1 May) Although the government for Buddha images between dusk and dawn. The results,
and festivals will vary from year to year (see Day, the national flag is paraded from town to town, and renounced socialism in 1989, the country still celebrates finished or not, are donated to the monks.
p351 for a list of the lunar months). My- wherever the flag rests there must be a festival. The lunar May Day as Workers’ Day. Kahtein Tazaungmon also brings kahtein, a one-month
anmar also has a number of more recently month of Tabodwe culminates in a rice-harvesting festival period at the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat during
originated holidays whose dates are fixed on the new-moon day. June/July which new monastic robes and requisites are offered to the
according to the Gregorian calendar. Martyrs’ Day (19 July) This date commemorates the monastic community. Many people simply donate cash;
Festivals are drawn out, enjoyable affairs in February/March assassination of Bogyoke Aung San and his comrades on kyat notes are folded and stapled into floral patterns
Myanmar. They generally take place or cul- Shwedagon Festival The lunar month of Tabaung that day in 1947. Wreaths are laid at Bogyoke Aung San’s on wooden ‘trees’ called padetha and offered to the
minate on full-moon days, but the build-up brings the annual Shwedagon Festival, the largest paya mausoleum north of the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon. monasteries.
can last for a while. There’s often a country- pwe (pagoda festival) in Myanmar. The full-moon day in Start of the Buddhist Rains Retreat The full moon National Day Myanmar’s national day falls in late
fair atmosphere about these festivals – at Tabaung is also an auspicious occasion for the construction of Waso is the beginning of the three-month Buddhist November or early December.
some convenient location there will be in- of new paya, and local paya pwes are held. Rains Retreat (sometimes referred to as ‘Buddhist Lent’).
numerable stalls and activities that go on all Peasants’ Day (2 March) Dedicated to the nation’s farmers. Lay people present monasteries with stacks of new robes November/December
night. Pwe (festivals and feasts), music and Armed Forces (or Resistance) Day (27 March) Armed for resident monks. Ordinary people are also expected to be Nadaw During Nadaw, many nat pwe (spirit festivals) are
Myanmar kickboxing bouts will all be part of Forces Day is celebrated with parades and fireworks. Since rather more religious during this time – marriages do not held; Nadaw is spelt with the characters for nat and taw (a
the colourful scene. The normally calm My- 1989 the government has made it a tradition to pardon a take place, and it is inauspicious to move house. This is also respectful honorific).
anmar people can get really worked up dur- number of prisoners on this day. the traditional time for young men to temporarily enter Christmas Despite Myanmar’s predominantly Buddhist
ing these festivals – at a full-moon festival on the monasteries. background, Christmas Day is a public holiday in deference
one of our visits to Yangon the supporters of April/May to the many Christian Kayin, Kachin and Chin. Many shops
the defeated favourite in a boxing bout were Buddha’s Birthday The full-moon day of Kason is July/August sell artificial trees and lights.
so enraged that they wrecked the arena, and celebrated as the Buddha’s birthday, the day of his Wagaung Festival At the festival during Wagaung, lots
subsequent bouts had to be cancelled. enlightenment and the day he entered nibbana (nirvana). are drawn to see who will have to provide monks with December/January
See p28 for the top 10 festivals. As such, it is known as the ‘thrice-blessed day’. The holiday their alms. If you’re in Mandalay, try to get to Taungbyone, Kayin New Year Held on the first waxing moon of
is celebrated by the ceremonial watering of the sacred about 20km to the north, where there is a noisy seven-day Pyatho, the Kayin New Year is considered a national holiday.
January/February banyan tree. One of the best places to observe this ceremony festival to keep the nat happy (see p61 for more on this Kayin communities throughout Myanmar celebrate by
Independence Day (4 January) This major public holiday is at Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya, where a procession of festival). wearing their traditional dress of woven tunics over red
is marked by a seven-day fair at Yangon’s Kandawgyi lake, girls carries earthen jars to the pagoda’s three banyan longyi (sarong-style lower garments) and by hosting folk-
and nationwide fairs. trees. September/October dancing and singing performances. The largest celebrations
Boat Races This is the height of the wet season, so what are held in the Kayin suburb of Insein, just north of Yangon,
better time to hold boat races? They’re held in rivers, lakes and in Hpa-an, the capital of Kayin State.
THE WATER FESTIVAL and even ponds all over Myanmar, but the best place to Ananda Festival This festival, held at the Ananda Paya
Around the middle of April, the three-day Thingyan (Water Festival) starts the Myanmar New be is Inle Lake, where the Buddha images at the Phaung in Bagan, also takes place during Pyatho.
Year. This event occurs at the height of the dry and hot season and, as in Thailand’s Songkran, Daw Oo Paya are ceremonially toured around the lake in
it is celebrated in a most raucous manner – by throwing buckets of cold water at anyone who the huge royal barge, the Karaweik. The Phaung Daw Oo Paya Pwe
dares to venture into the streets. Foreigners are not exempt! festival comes just before the festival of Thadingyut (see In addition to these main pan-Myanmar
In cities, temporary stages called pandal (from the Tamil pendel) are erected along main thor- below) and usually overlaps in late September and early festivals, nearly every active paya or kyaung
oughfares. Each pandal is sponsored by various groups, the members of which stand next to October. community hosts occasional celebrations of
rows of water barrels and douse every person or vehicle that passes by. Thadingyut During Thadingyut, the Buddhist Rains its own, often called paya pwe or ‘pagoda
On a spiritual level, Myanmar people believe that during this three-day period the king of Retreat comes to an end and all those couples who had festivals’ in Burmese English. Some get
the nat (spirit beings), Thagyamin, visits the human world to tally his annual record of the good been putting off marriage now rush into each other’s arms. quite rollicking – even to the point of nov-
deeds and misdeeds humans have performed. Villagers place flowers and sacred leaves in front Monks are free to travel from kyaung (monastery) to kyaung ice monks throwing fireworks at the feet of
of their homes to welcome the nat. Thagyamin’s departure on the morning of the third day or to go on pilgrimages to holy spots such as Kyaiktiyo or passers-by. The typical paya pwe features the
marks the beginning of the new year, when properly brought-up young people wash the hair Mt Popa. For the three days of the festival all of Myanmar same kinds of activities as a major festival –
of their elder kin, Buddha images are ceremonially washed, and hpongyi (monks) are offered is lit by oil lamps, fire balloons, candles and even mundane craft and food vendors, music and dance –
particularly appetising alms food. electric lamps. Every house has a paper lantern hanging on a smaller scale. The biggest proliferation
Although the true meaning of the festival is still kept alive by ceremonies such as these, outside. It’s a happy time, and is particularly eventful in of paya pwe occurs on full-moon days and
nowadays it’s mainly a festival of fun. In between getting soaked, there will be dancing, singing Mandalay. nights from January to March, following
and theatre. And drinking. In theatre, the emphasis is on satire – particularly making fun of the the main rice harvest, providing local paddy
government, the latest female fashions and any other items of everyday interest. Cultural taboos October/November farmers and their families with a good ex-
against women acting in a boisterous manner are temporarily lifted, so women can ‘kidnap’ young Tazaungmon The full-moon night of Tazaungmon is an cuse to party. The festivals also offer added
men, blacken these men’s faces with soot or oil, bind their hands and dunk their heads in buckets occasion for another ‘festival of lights’, known properly as market venues for local basket-weavers,
of water until they surrender and perform a hilarious monkey dance for the women. Tazaungdaing. It’s particularly celebrated in Shan State – potters, woodcarvers, blacksmiths, longyi-
in Taunggyi there are fire-balloon competitions. In some weavers and other artisans.
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Particular paya pwe are described in the Strand Rd, and at the Patty O’Malleys pub a modem or fax machine without permis- would most likely be permitted to contact
appropriate destination sections through- in the Sedona Hotel (p112). On the Chinese sion is a crime. your consular agent in Myanmar for pos-
out this guidebook. border, remote Mong La (p201) is home to Internet access outside Myanmar’s belly sible assistance.
A few highlights include Nayon (May/ a bit of a gay and transvestite scene. (roughly from Yangon to Mandalay, includ- If you purchase gems or jewellery from
June) and Nadaw (November/December) at The following websites have information ing Bagan and Inle Lake) wanes to non persons or shops that are not licensed by
Mt Popa (p278); Pyatho (December/January) about gay and lesbian travel and rights, existence. As the Internet is relatively new the government, you run the risk of having
at Bagan’s Ananda Pahto (p300) and the big- though they contain nothing specific to to Myanmar, the situation is likely to im- the goods confiscated if customs officials
gest, in August, at Taungbyone, north of Man- Myanmar: prove over time. find them in your baggage when you’re ex-
dalay (p61). www.damron.com Access is sometimes clunky. In Yangon iting the country. Journalists often claim a
www.gay.com or Mandalay options abound and access different profession in order to get a visa,
FOOD www.iglta.com costs about K1000 per hour. In places such and they risk deportation if authorities
Most restaurants are quite cheap (around as Inle Lake, Bagan, Pyin U Lwin and Nga- suspect that they’re researching a political
US$1 or US$2 per person including beer), so Track human-rights progress at the web- pali Beach prices rise to K3000 per hour. exposé while in the country.
we haven’t divided them into budget, mid- site for the International Gay & Lesbian Human Even off-the-beaten-track towns such as Drugs are another area where you must
range and top-end categories in this book. Rights Commission (www.iglhrc.org) or site for The Shwebo and Sittwe have Internet. Presently be very careful. We know of a French travel-
See p74 for more on the types of cuisine and Gully (www.thegully.com). you cannot access the Internet from hotel ler arrested for possession of opium or her-
restaurants you’ll find in Myanmar. rooms. oin in Kengtung and held for several weeks
A 10% government tax is applied to HOLIDAYS Often links are quicker early in the morn- before he was able to bribe his way out.
prices at upmarket restaurants in Yangon Major public holidays include Independence ing or at periods during the day; they can Many foreigners have foolishly entered
and in top-end hotel restaurants. Day (January 4), Peasants’ Day (March 2), get clunky when residents hit the local chat Myanmar illegally from northern Thailand,
Armed Forces (or Resistance) Day (March rooms in the evening, sometimes contact- but not all have succeeded in avoiding ar-
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS 27), Workers’ Day (May 1), National Day ing people overseas. rest. In late 1998 three Western motor-
Most of Myanmar’s ethnic groups are very (late November or early December) and At the time of research, the government cyclists crossed illegally from Thailand’s
tolerant of homosexuality, both male and Christmas (December 25). Government of- had banned the use of Yahoo and Hot- Mae Hong Son Province into Shan State;
female. Generally a local woman walking fices take just about any excuse for taking mail in the country, in a rather vain at- they were held for three months before
with a foreign man will raise more eyebrows the day off, though many private businesses tempt to censor incoming information, but being released and deported.
than two same-sex travellers sharing a room. remain open. For a broader list of festivals sites for the BBC (www.bbc.co.uk) and the New
Muslim and Christian Myanmar commu- and events see p340. York Times (www.nytimes.com) – and even www MAPS
nities are the exceptions, but as they form .espn.com – were available at most Internet Country Maps
relatively small minorities they rarely foist INSURANCE cafés. Email accounts that end in something If you want a map before you go, the best
their world perspectives on people of other A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss other than ‘.com’ are sometimes easier to available is the 1:2,000,000 Periplus Edi-
faiths. and medical problems is a very wise idea. access than those that do. Secondary email tions Myanmar Travel Map, a folded map
Public displays of affection – whether There is a wide variety of policies, and your services, such as www.walla.com, became with plans for Mandalay, Yangon and the
heterosexual or homosexual – are frowned travel agent will have recommendations. restricted at the time of research. Bagan area. The inferior Nelles Myanmar,
upon. Check the travel-insurance-policy finder There are two ISPs: a dial-up service con- a folded map on coated stock, contains
Although it’s difficult to tell, given the at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services trolled by the Ministry of Telecommuni- many errors and splits the country in half
opaqueness of the current military-directed /trvl_trvlinsurance.cfm, which gives sample cations and a broadband service called on either side, but it’s also easily available
government – which contains no true judi- prices for policies, including those covering Bagan Cybertech, which was run by former outside Myanmar. Good places to buy maps
ciary branch – there appear to be no laws emergency evacuation. Also, international prime minister Khin Nyunt’s son until he online include Travel Maps and Books (www
that discriminate against homosexuals. travel policies handled by STA Travel and was ousted (it’s now operated by the mili- .itmb.com) and MapLink (www.maplink.com).
Certainly we have never heard of anyone other student-travel organisations are usu- tary, we hear). In Yangon you can pick up the full-
facing prosecution or arrest for homosexual ally good value. Some policies offer lower Some fine sources of online information colour, folded Tourist Map of Myanmar,
behaviour. In 2001 the All Burma Students’ and higher medical-expenses options, but can be found on p29. published on coated stock by Design Print-
Democratic Front (ABSDF) decriminalised the higher ones are chiefly for countries ing Services (DPS), from many hotels and
same-sex acts, opening up their prodemoc- that have extremely high medical costs, LEGAL MATTERS bookshops. Sometimes you can grab one
racy movement to gay and lesbian members such as the USA. The Myanmar government includes no ju- free at the Yangon Airport arrival hall; in
for the first time. See p369 for advice on health insurance. diciary branch separate from the executive some places it costs up to K1000.
The gay and lesbian scene around the powers vested – by force of totalitarian rule – The Myanmar government’s Survey De-
country is relatively low-key – it’s certainly INTERNET ACCESS in the Tatmadaw (military). So you have partment publishes a very good paper sheet
nowhere near as prominent as in neigh- Internet was introduced in 2001, and the absolutely no legal recourse in case of arrest map of the country, simply entitled My-
bouring Thailand. Whether in terms of first Internet café started operation in or detainment by the authorities, regardless anmar, which has a scale of 1:2,000,000.
dress or mannerism, lesbians and gays are 2002. Despite government efforts at re- of the charge. Foreign visitors engaging in It’s big, and the noncoated paper decays
generally accepted without comment. Yan- striction, the impact has been huge – and political activism (such as James Mawds- rapidly. You can often find it on sale from
gon has the biggest active gay scene, paris poised to grow. The costs are prohibi- ley; see p337) risk deportation or imprison- vendors on Bogyoke Aung San Rd in Yan-
ticularly at the Silver Oak Café (p118) near tively expensive for many, and possessing ment. However, if you were arrested you gon, just east of the market.
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Myanmar’s Survey Department also ATMs Some upscale hotels in Yangon can ex- Before handing over, say US$500, one
publishes a multipage 1997 Myanmar Atlas, Myanmar has no ATMs (automatic teller change travellers cheques for a 3% to 10% idea is to change just US$100 first. Count
complete with colour relief but it is labelled machines). commission. In Mandalay, the Sedona the notes, and then take them back to your
in the Bamar language only. This atlas pro- Hotel (p238) accepts credit cards (Visa and room and re-count. If all’s OK, return with
vides the most up-to-date and detailed set Banks Mastercard are your best bets), and a lone more money – even with the caveat that
of maps available. If you’re lucky you may In 2003 Myanmar’s 20 private banks col- shop accepts travellers cheques for a 20% you ‘may need to change more later on’,
find it for sale among the book vendors in lapsed, and economic bans by the EU and commission. to help ensure you’ll have good reason to
Yangon. the USA sent 38 foreign bank representatives be back.
packing, rendering credit cards and travel- Moneychangers Nothing spells ‘u.n.i.n.f.o.r.m.e.d t.o.u.r.i.s.t’
City Maps lers cheques useless in the country. The few You will be asked to ‘change money’ many more than changing money at the airport.
DPS publishes very useful and fairly de- national banks that remain are of little use times on your trip. Technically, the only The airport exchange counter, at research
tailed city maps of Yangon Mandalay, and to travellers, as official exchange rates mas- reasonable way to exchange currency for time, gave K450 for US$1, while the worst
the extremely useful plan for Bagan. As sively overvalue the kyat. So there’s really no kyat is through the ‘black market’ – mean- black-market exchange rate around the
with its Tourist Map of Myanmar, these city reason to exchange money at a bank. ing from shops, hotels, travel agents, restau- country was about K925. If you’ve just ar-
maps are printed on durable coated stock. rants or less reliable guys on the street. You rived, you can use a few US dollars to pay
They’re available from various hotels and Cash can change US dollars or euros in Yangon, for your taxi to the centre, then find a better
bookshops in Yangon, and to a lesser de- Most guesthouses and hotels quote prices but generally only US dollars elsewhere. rate in town.
gree in Mandalay and Bagan. They usually in US dollars. These places usually accept Rest assured; hanging money on the black
cost K500. If you anticipate spending a lot kyat, but at a slightly disadvantageous market is accepted in Myanmar. FECs
of time in the capital, look for a new DPS rate (say K1000 to each US$1, rather than Moneychangers accept crisp, clean, un- Previously, all travellers entering the country
bilingual atlas, The Map of Yangon, which is K950). If you’re counting pennies, bring creased bills. The newer (and the higher had to exchange US$200 into FEC (Foreign
a detailed street and place directory. lots of small US dollar bills – ones, fives and in denomination) the better. The US$100 Exchange Certificates), the government’s
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) also 10s – and use them to pay for your hotel. bill gets a slightly better exchange rate than primary way of acquiring dollars from tour-
prints city maps oriented towards tourists, Many hotels, shops and government ferry a US$50 or US$20, and so on. Erroneous ists. This requirement was suspended in-
but they tend to be out of date and less clerks are reluctant to give change in for- rumours of some counterfeit notes have definitely in August 2003 (though word
detailed. These maps are available from the eign currency and instead offer kyat (you’ll meant that many moneychangers won’t hasn’t spread to everyone in the country
MTT office (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd) in Yangon, or lose a little in the conversion). trade bills that start with the serial numbers yet). Some government businesses – such as
from individual MTT offices in other major Government-run services (such as ar- ‘CB’. Don’t expect to change any rumpled, Myanma Airways and museums – may still
towns and cities. chaeological sites, museums and ferries) and torn bills. quote prices in FEC, and technically they
flights are paid for in US dollars or FEC (see It’s safest to change money in hotels or can still be used anywhere. Most private
MONEY opposite) – not euros; in some cases you may shops, rather than on the street. The mon- shops prefer foreign currency. One FEC is
Myanmar’s national currency, the kyat be able to beg to pay in kyat (at a slightly eychangers standing around just east of the equal to US$1.
(pronounced chat, and abbreviated K) is worse exchange rate than on the street), but Mahabandoola Garden in Yangon have a
divided into the following banknotes: K1, airlines tend to accept dollars only. reputation for short-changing new arrivals Tipping, Donations & Bribes
K5, K10, K15, K20, K45, K50, K90, K100, Items such as meals, bus tickets, trishaw for several thousand kyat. Tipping as known in the West is not cus-
K200, K500 and K1000. See the inside front or taxi rides, bottles of water and market Never hand over your money until you’ve tomary in Myanmar, though little extra ‘pres-
cover for exchange rates as this book was items are usually quoted in kyat. received the kyat and counted them. Hon- ents’ are sometimes expected (even if they’re
going to press. Considering the economy’s est moneychangers will expect you do this. not asked for) in exchange for a service (such
freefall, and rising inflation, rates are likely Credit Cards & Travellers Cheques Considering that K1000 is the highest note as unlocking a locked temple at Bagan, help-
to change. At research time, credit cards and travellers (roughly US$1), you’ll get a lot of notes. ing move a bag at the airport, showing you
See p27 for details on costs in Myanmar cheques were essentially useless in Myan- Moneychangers give ready-made, rubber- around the ‘sights’ of a village).
and p24 for tips on spreading your budget mar. Surprised tourists in Yangon found banded stacks of a hundred K1000 bills. It’s Almost all paya, pahto and kyaung are
through the private sector rather than to themselves helpless trying to use them. De- a good idea to check each note individually. free to enter. It’s a good idea to keep some
the government. pending on how the banking situation and Often you’ll find one or two (or more) with small notes (K50, K100, K200) when visit-
international sanctions develop, this may a cut corner, or taped together, neither of ing kyaung, as donations may be asked for.
change. However, a few businesses (includ- which anyone will accept. We heard from Also, you may wish to leave a donation.
KYAT & DOLLARS ing hotels – see below) are able to accept some travellers that Yangon moneychang- In the past, many travellers have offered
Prices in this book alternate between kyat credit cards or cash travellers cheques beers have asked for a ‘commission’. a little ‘tea money’ to officials in order to
and US dollars, depending on the currency cause of a processing system linked outside Many travellers do the bulk of their ex- help expedite bureaucratic services such as
in which prices are quoted. Be careful to the country, usually in Singapore. But it’s changing in Yangon, where you can get visa extensions or getting a seat on a ‘sold
keep some US dollars with you in case unwise to count on using credit cards or about K100 more per dollar than elsewhere, out’ flight. You shouldn’t have to do this.
you’re turned back by a strict and unbend- travellers cheques. then carry the stacks of kyat for a couple of If you overstay your visa, you’ll often pay a
ing museum cashier who will not take kyat. Many travellers pre-book hotels – usually weeks around the country. Considering the US$3 ‘fee’ for the paperwork, in addition to
For more information, see right. top-end joint-venture ones – using credit relative safety from theft, it’s not a bad idea, the (actual) US$3 penalty per day. See p352
cards online. but you can exchange money elsewhere. for more details. At the time of research, an
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author was asked pay an extra few thousand is a more reliable way of sending out bigger are traditionally used for weighing opium, up English-language magazines such as
kyat to board a perfectly legal bus! packages – though you can only send docu- gems and other precious goods. Newsweek and Time.
Drivers of pick-ups charge a little extra ments to the USA, because of the sanctions; The older system of scales used a series
to sit in the front seat, but they do that for you can’t even send postcards. Rates to send of nine weights; the newer system uses Clothing & Shoes
locals too. a 0.5/1kg package to Europe are US$65/76, six weights. Production of the traditional LONGYIS
See also p338 for details on the ‘commis- Australia US$50/56 and Canada US$65/77 zoomorphic weights came to a halt once the Myanmar is the only country in Southeast
sions’ paid to guides and drivers. (not including an 8% ‘security charge’). British colonial administration standardised Asia where the majority of the population
There’s also a useful DHL branch at the the system of weights and measures in 1885. wear non-Western clothes as part of their
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Traders Hotel in Yangon (p110). The pre-1885 weights were made of bronze; everyday dress. Native fabrics are for the
Some Internet cafés can burn digital photos For larger air- or sea-freight shipments, reproductions made for the tourist trade are most part limited to the longyi.
onto a CD for about K1000, but you should Express Air & Sea Transportation Co (EAST; %01- usually brass. The most common animal fig- Men wear ankle-length patterns of checks,
have your own adapter. Colour film – Fuji 667 057; 14A A1 Lane, 9 Mile, A1 Compound, Yangon) is ures are to-aung (a creature that looks like plaids or stripes. To tie them they gather
and Kodak – is widely available in Yangon recommended. a cross between a bull and a lion), hintha (a the front of the longyi to create two short
and Mandalay, a bit less so in smaller towns. swan-like bird) and karaweik (the Myanmar lengths of material, then twist them into a
Photo-supply shops don’t often sell cameras, SHOPPING crane). Folding scales in carved wooden half-knot, tucking one end in at the waist
but they can develop film. Usually it’s about There are some good bargains to be had boxes go with the weights. If you can, check while allowing the other to protrude from
K200 to develop a roll, then K50 per photo in Myanmar, particularly for textiles and prices in shops in Bangkok before blithely the knot. Any kind of shirt, from a T-shirt
printed. Avoid taking photographs of mili- handicrafts. It’s a good idea to seek out looking for bargains in Myanmar. to the formal mandarin-collar eingyi, may
tary facilities, uniformed individuals, road local artisans and buy handicrafts directly be worn with a man’s longyi. On very formal
blocks and bridges. Aung Sang Suu Kyi’s from them, rather than directing profits to- KAMMAWA & PARABAIK occasions such as weddings, the gaung-baung
home is absolutely off limits to all photo- wards government-owned shops. See p28 Kammawa (from the Pali kammavacha) (Bamar turban) is added to the outfit.
graphers. We’ve heard of travellers who took for a list of top souvenirs. are narrow, rectangular slats painted with Burmese women favour calf-length longyi
photos of the house having their film con- In larger towns and cities, bargains are extracts from the Pali Vinaya – the Pitaka – in solid colours, stripes or flower prints,
fiscated. Most locals are not at all unhappy usually found in the public markets, called concerned with monastic discipline; specifi- topped off by a form-fitting, waist-length
about being photographed, but please ask zei, or zay, in Burmese. The main central cally, extracts to do with clerical affairs. The blouse. A black waistband is stitched along
first. If you have a digital camera with a dis- market is often called zeigyo (also spelt core of a kammawa page may be a thin slat the waist end, which is folded in front to
play screen, some locals (kids, monks, any- zei-gyo or zay-cho); other markets will be of wood, lacquered cloth, thatched cane or form a wide pleat, then tucked behind the
one) will be overjoyed to see their image. named after the district or township where thin brass, which is then layered with red, waistband to one side. The most expensive
Some sights, including some payas and they’re found. black and gold lacquer to form the script designs tend to feature wavy or zigzag acheiq
other religious sites, charge a camera fee of Though the Bogyoke Aung San Market and decorations. patterns, the rarest of which are woven using
K100 or so. Usually a video camera fee is in Yangon (p121) and the zeigyo in Man The parabaik (Buddhist palm-leaf manu- a hundred or more spools of thread and
a little more. dalay (p242) offer many arts and crafts script) is a similarly horizontal ‘book’, this called lun-taya (hundred-spool) acheiq.
For tips on how to shoot photos, pick from around the country, it’s not a bad idea time folded accordion-style, like a road
up Lonely Planet’s Travel Photography: A to buy items where they are made. Some map. The pages are made of heavy paper OTHER ITEMS
Guide to Taking Better Pictures. regional specialties are not widespread (eg covered with black ink on which the let- Simple flip-flops with leather soles and vel-
cotton and silk shirts at Inle Lake, best- ters are engraved; some parabaik may fea- vet thongs are the most common footwear
POST quality parasols at Pindaya and Pathein, ture gouache illustrations, and some can for both men and women. If you need them
Most mail out of Myanmar seems to get regional longyi styles, and Bagan’s lacquer- be erased and written over again. Typical big, some shops can have them tailor-made
to its destination quite efficiently, though ware selection). parabaik contain Jataka (stories from the for you in about three days.
occasionally we hear reports of something The big hotel shops, the large air-con Buddha’s past lives) or royal chronicles. Tailoring in Myanmar is very inexpen-
never arriving. handicrafts emporiums and the shops in Both kammawa and parabaik are among sive compared with just about anywhere
International-postage rates are a bargain the departure lounge at Yangon airport are the items prohibited for export – though else in the world. Many of the textiles seen
at least. A postcard, including registration, very expensive. it’s difficult to say how well this is enforced. in tailors’ shops are imported synthetics.
is K75; a letter K80. If you’re blind, you Outside the hotel shops, haggling is gen- Plenty are for sale in high-end shops in So, if you want, say, a shirt made from pure
can send mail for free! There’s a free poste- erally in full force, and very few things have Bangkok and Chiang Mai. cotton, consider buying a longyi and having
restante service on the 2nd floor of Yangon’s marked prices. Often the acceptable selling the tailor cut and sew from that.
main post office (Map p102; Strand Rd; h7.30am-6pm price is about half of what is originally of- Books Trousers, of the same cut as those sold in
Mon-Fri). fered; cheaper items, such as T-shirts, are Bookshops are plentiful, but for English- Thailand as ‘fisherman’s pants’, can be found
Officially, post offices all over Myanmar less likely to drop that much. language books (and those in some other in Shan State, particularly around Inle Lake
are supposed to be open from 9.30am to foreign languages), Yangon’s Bagan Book- but also in Hsipaw. Unlike the Thai variety,
3.30pm or 4pm Monday to Friday, but in Antiques shop (p87) is by far the best place to dig up those sold in Myanmar are made of thicker,
reality the staff open and close the office Although they’re not all as ancient as they’re old Myanmar-related books. Here you may hand-woven cotton and use natural dyes.
when they feel like it. made out to be, a-le (opium weights) are find many regional-based books – such as You can also get high-quality jeans (fake
DHL Worldwide Express (in Yangon %01-664 423, popular things to collect. These are the lit- for Mrauk U – that are not available else- Levis etc) for about US$14 in some Yangon
in Mandalay %02-39274; 7A Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Yangon) tle animal shapes in descending sizes that where. Yangon is also the best place to pick malls.
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Jewellery & Precious Stones HISTORY Tapestries bronze or clay pipes; kammawa or parabaik;
Myanmar generates a considerable income The earliest lacquerware found in Myan- Along with lacquerware, tapestries (kalaga) inscribed stones; inscribed gold or silver; his-
from the mining of precious stones, mostly mar can be dated to the 11th century and are one of the better bargains in Myanmar. torical documents; religious images; sculp-
in the north. Be very wary of people who sported a very Chinese style. The tech- They consist of pieces of coloured cloth tures or carvings in bronze, stone, stucco
come to you with stories of large profits to niques used today are known as yun, the of various sizes heavily embroidered with or wood; frescoes (even fragments); pottery;
be had by taking Myanmar gemstones to sell old Bamar word for the people of Chiang silver- or gold-coloured thread, metal se- and national regalia and paraphernalia.
in Western countries. Mai, where the techniques were imported quins and glass beads, and feature mytho-
Precious stones are supposed to be a gov- from (along with some captured artisans) logical Myanmar figures in padded relief. SOLO TRAVELLERS
ernment monopoly, and the government is in the 16th century by King Bayinnaung. The greatest variety is found in Mandalay, For some travellers, the already hospitable
very unhappy about visitors buying stones An older style of applying gold or silver to where most tapestries are produced, but locals are even more so if you’re travelling
from anywhere other than licensed retail a black background dates back to, perhaps, the mark-up can be high because of touts alone. Solo travellers will likely attract more
shops. If any stones are found when your the Pyay era (5th to 9th centuries) and is taking you there. Try to locate shops on questions on the matter. Nearly all accom-
baggage is checked on departure, they may kept alive by artisans in Kyaukka (p260), your own – and go by bike – and bargain modation options have reduced rates for
be confiscated unless you can present a near Monywa. for the best prices. You can also purchase single rooms. However, some side trips
receipt showing that they were purchased tapestries in Yangon at craft shops in the (which require you to hire a boat, taxi or
from a government-licensed dealer. HOW ITS MADE & WHAT TO LOOK FOR Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121). big horse cart) will mean extra expenses
The finer imperial-jade or pigeon-blood Many lacquerware shops – in Kyaukka Good-quality kalaga are tightly woven that could otherwise be shared. Generally,
rubies can only be purchased at exclusive spe- (p260), Myinkaba (p275) and New Bagan and don’t skimp on sequins, which may outside budget guesthouses in bigger desti-
cial dealer sessions during the government- (Bagan Myothit; p277) – include active be sewn in overlapping lines, rather than nations, the easiest way to meet fellow trav-
sponsored Myanmar Gems, Jade & Pearl workshops, where you can see the long- spaced side by side, as a sign of embroidery ellers is on transport where you can roam a
Emporium held each year in October, De- winded process involved in making the skill. The metals used should shine, even bit, such as boat rides.
cember and February in Yangon. bowls, trays and other objects. The crafts- in older pieces; tarnishing means lower-
Still, many visitors manage to buy stones person first weaves a frame (the best- quality materials. Age is not necessarily TELEPHONE
from unlicensed dealers, who far outnum- quality wares have a bamboo frame tied a factor in the item’s value except when
ber those who are licensed. The govern- together with horse or donkey hairs; lesser related to better-quality work. Prices vary Approach the telephone with a prayer.
ment turns a blind eye to most domestic pieces are made wholly from bamboo). The according to size and quality; they range Aung San Suu Kyi
trade; Mandalay’s jade market (p242) is an lacquer is then coated over the framework from US$5 to US$10 for smaller squares to
example. and allowed to dry. After several days it US$65 for larger ones. Most business cards in Myanmar purposely
Black-market prices are considerably is sanded down with ash from rice husks, list a couple of phone numbers, and a mo-
lower than prices found in licensed retail and another coating of lacquer is applied. Woodcarving & Puppets bile (cell) phone number, as lines frequently
shops, but of course the risk of being conned A high-quality item may have seven to 15 You can still find some pleasantly carved go dead and calls just don’t go through.
is far greater as well. The best place to buy layers altogether. new Buddha images and other items from Many streetside stands have phones that
unlicensed stones is at the source, where The lacquerware is engraved and workshops in Mandalay or in the corridors can be used to make local calls in town or
fakes are much less common. The catch is painted, then polished to remove the paint leading to Shwedagon Paya in Yangon, but around the country for a couple of hundred
that, of the main mines – Mogok (Sagaing from everywhere except from within the in general you won’t see much woodcarv- kyat; you can also make calls from many
Division), Pyinlon (Shan State), Maingshu engravings. Multicoloured lacquerware is ing on sale. shops (look for a drawing of a phone hang-
(Shan State), Myaduang (Kayah State) and produced by repeated engraving, painting Older items from the Amarapura, Yadan- ing outside).
parts of Kachin State – only Mogok can be and polishing. From start to finish it can apon and Mandalay periods are plentiful, Official telephone (call) centres are some-
visited, and this can be done only on ex- take up to five or six months to produce but you can’t be sure that Myanmar cus- times the only way to call overseas, though
pensive government-sponsored tours (see a high-quality piece of lacquerware, which toms will allow them out of the country sometimes this can be done on the street
p229). may have as many as five colours. A top- (and it’s not a good idea to remove historical too. Generally, it costs about US$4 or US$5
quality bowl can have its rim squeezed to- items for your personal use elsewhere any- per minute to call Australia or Europe and
Lacquerware gether until the sides meet without suffering way). Again, the high-end antique shops of US$5 or US$6 per minute to phone North
Probably the most popular purchase in My- any damage or permanent distortion. Bangkok and Chiang Mai seem to have an America. Often you’ll be asked to pay in
anmar is lacquerware – you’ll find bowls, endless supply of pieces that once graced US dollars, but many government phone
trays, boxes, containers, cups, vases and Parasols Burmese kyaung. centres will accept kyat after a moment of
other everyday items (including tables!) The graceful and beautifully painted lit- Wooden puppets, old and new (cheapies hesitation.
on sale in the main markets of Yangon tle parasols you see around Myanmar are go for as little as US$2 or US$3 in Mandalay Like electronic devices, all mobile phones
and Mandalay; in the entrance walks to cheap and a product of the port of Pathein and Yangon), are other popular items. must be declared upon arrival; these don’t
Mahamuni Paya in Mandalay; and most (p134) – in fact they’re known in Myanmar work here – only satellite phones do, but
particularly in Bagan, where most of the as Pathein hti (Pathein umbrellas). Every- Export Restrictions this type of phone is trickier to get past
lacquerware is made. day parasols have wooden handles, and The following items cannot legally be taken immigration. Mobile-phone numbers in
If you purchase large lacquerware items, the more ceremonial ones have handles of out of the country: prehistoric implements Myanmar begin with %09.
most shops will wrap and crate them for silver. The Bogyoke Aung San Market in and artefacts; fossils; old coins; bronze or A useful resource is the Myanmar Yellow
you for easier shipping. Yangon is another place to look. brass weights (including opium weights); Pages (www.myanmaryelowpages.biz).
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train times (eg 16.00 instead of 4pm). For
CALLING MYANMAR an idea of comparative times around the LIVING ON MYANMAR TIME
To call Myanmar from abroad, dial your world, see the map on p392. That bus may roll in late, but much of Myanmar actually does work on a different time system.
country’s international access code, then Most Myanmar Buddhists use an eight-day week in which Thursday to Tuesday conform to the
%95 (Myanmar’s country code), the area TOILETS Western calendar but Wednesday is divided into two 12-hour days. Midnight to noon is ‘Bohdahu’
code (minus the ‘0’) and the five- or six- Toilets, when you need them most (at bus (the day Buddha was born), while noon to midnight is ‘Yahu’ (Rahu, a Hindu god/planet). It’s rare
digit number. To dial long distance within stops, off the highway), are often at their that the week’s unique structure causes any communication problems, however.
Myanmar, dial the area code (including the worst. Outside most guesthouses, hotels The traditional Myanmar calendar features 12 28-day lunar months that run out of sync with
‘0’) and the number. Area codes for selected and upscale restaurants, squat toilets are the months of the solar Gregorian calendar. To stay in sync with the solar year, Myanmar inserts
towns and cities: the norm. Most squat toilets are located a second Waso lunar month every few years – somewhat like the leap-year day added to the
Aungban %069 down a dirt path behind a house. Usually Gregorian February. The lunar months of Myanmar:
Bagan %02 & %061 next to the toilet is a cement reservoir filled Tagu March/April Thadingyut September/October
Bago %052 with water, and a plastic bowl lying nearby. Kason April/May Tazaungmon October/November
Chauk %061 This has two functions: as a flush and for Nayon May/June Nadaw November/December
Dawei (Tavoy) %036 people to clean their nether regions while Waso June/July Pyatho December/January
Heho %059 still squatting over the toilet. Toilet paper Wagaung July/August Tabodwe January/February
Hinthada %044 is available at shops all over the country, Tawthalin August/September Tabaung February/March
Hpa-an %058 but not often at toilets. Some places charge
Inle Lake a nominal fee to use the toilet. Most traditional festivals take place according to the lunar calendar, making it difficult to calculate
see Nyaungshwe Note that the plumbing in flush, sit- festival dates using the fixed-date Gregorian calendar. Ask most Buddhist villagers when a pwe
Kalaw %081 down toilets is generally not equipped is scheduled and you may hear something like, ‘It’s on Pyatho, 8th day of the waning moon’.
Kyaukse %066 to flush paper. Usually there’s a small OK, see you there!
Lashio %082 waste basket nearby to deposit used toilet Traditionally, Burmese kings subscribed to various year counts. The main one in current use,
Loikaw %083 paper. the thekkayit, begins in April and is 638 years behind the Christian year count. Therefore, the
Magwe %063 It’s perfectly acceptable for men (less so Christian year of 2005 is equivalent to the thekkayit of 1367. If an ancient temple you see sounds
Mandalay %02 for women) to go behind a tree or bush (or way too old, it may because locals are using the thekkayit.
Mawlamyine %057 at the roadside) when nature calls. Another calendar in use follows the Buddhist era (BE), as used in Thailand, which counts from
Meiktila %064 543 BC, the date that Buddha achieved nibbana. Hence AD 2005 is 2548 BE.
Minbu %065 TOURIST INFORMATION
Monywa %071 Government-operated Myanmar Travels &
Myeik %059 Tours (MTT; www.myanmars.net/mtt) is part of VISAS you must first get a visa directly through a
Myingyan %066 the Ministry of Hotels & Tourism and the Passport holders from Asean countries, Myanmar consular service.
Myitkyina %074 main ‘tourist information’ service in the China, Bangladesh and Russia do not need At research time, Bangkok travel agents,
Ngapali Beach %043 country. Those who want to avoid using to apply for visas to visit Myanmar. All particularly on Khao San Rd, specialised
Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) %081 government services should avoid the other nationalities do. A tourist visa’s val- in getting quick tourist visas for Myan-
Pakokku %062 tours and services offered here, including idity expires 90 days after issue and only mar. Rates depended on turnaround times,
Pathein %042 buying train or plane tickets. MTT offices allows a 28-day, single-entry visit. It costs which aren’t always met: a visa in one day
Pyay %053 are located in Yangon (p89), Mandalay US$20. You’ll need three passport-sized costs B1800, in two days B1600 and in three
Pyin U Lwin %085 (p229), New Bagan (p275), and Inle Lake photos for the process. days B1100. The process at the Myanmar
Pyinmana %067 (p183). Other than at Yangon, these offices There are also 28-day business visas embassy in Bangkok (see p339) takes at
Sagaing %072 are pretty quiet. The staff is friendly and (US$30) and 28-day special visas (US$30) least a day. Show up early.
Sittwe %043 speaks English, however, so you could eas- for former Myanmar citizens (these visas See p357 for more information on enter-
Taunggyi %081 ily drop by for free information – though can be extended for three to six months ing Myanmar overland from Thailand or
Taungoo %054 details of open/restricted areas aren’t al- once in Yangon, for US$36). A multiple- China, which includes details of short-term
Thanlyin (Syriam) %065 ways reliable. entry business visa is US$150. There is also a visas (with very limited access to Myanmar)
Yangon %01 There are no MTT offices abroad. Try meditation visa (US$30), which requires an available at the borders.
www.myanmar.com for (often useful) travel invitation from a monastery; those seeking
information provided by the government. to enter Myanmar on this type of visa must Applications
TIME Much of the tourist industry in Myanmar do an autobiographical ‘sketch’ as part of Myanmar’s embassies and consulates
The local Myanmar Standard Time (MST) is now privatised. Travellers who want to the process. abroad are scrupulous in checking out the
is 6½ hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time arrange a driver, or have hotel reservations It may be possible to apply for an e-visa backgrounds of anyone applying for a tour-
(GMT/UTC). When coming in from Thai- awaiting them, would do well to arrange a online at www.visa.gov.mm, though the site ist visa. In particular, writers and journal-
land, turn your watch back half an hour; trip with the help of private travel agents in was suspended at the time of research. E- ists may have a difficult time obtaining
coming from India, put your watch forward Yangon (p89). Many ‘travel agents’ outside visas previously cost US$30. If you’re plan- visas. Therefore, it’s probably not a good
an hour. The 24-hour clock is often used for Yangon only sell air tickets. ning to enter the country overland, however, idea to list your occupation as any of the
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following: journalist, photographer, edi- VOLUNTEERING In some cases it can be considered an in- you’re handing something to a monk (and
tor, publisher, motion-picture director or Some foreigners have been able to volun- sult for a woman to be on the roof of a small you’re a woman), place the object within
producer, cameraperson, videographer, or teer as English teachers at monasteries. In vehicle or boat when male passengers are reach of him, not directly into his hands.
writer. Of course, plenty of journalists and November 2004, seven foreigners doing so below; ask first. Also, monks are not sup- See p61 for background on the role of
photographers do get into the country – by at Mandalay’s Phaungdaw Kyaung were deposed to touch or be touched by women. If local women in society.
declaring a different profession on the visa ported, though this is likely to have been a
application. repercussion of the monastery’s connection
Myanmar foreign missions may also be with ousted prime minister Khin Nyunt.
suspicious of anyone whose passport shows
two or more previous visits to Myanmar in WOMEN TRAVELLERS
a five-year period. Obviously the govern- In Myanmar no Myanmar woman would
ment can’t believe anyone would want to even consider travelling without at least
visit Myanmar more than once or twice! one female companion, so women travel-
In cases such as these you’ll need more of a ling alone are regarded as slightly peculiar
reason than simply ‘tourism’ for receiving by the locals. Women travelling alone and
another visa. Be creative. being seen off on boats and trains by local
friends may find the latter trying to find a
Extensions suitably responsible older woman to keep
At research time, it was possible to extend a them company on the trip.
tourist visa by an additional 14 days beyond As in most Buddhist countries, foreign
its original 28-day validity in Yangon only. women travelling in Myanmar are rarely
The extension costs US$36 and usually takes hassled on the road as they might be in,
about three days to issue. A travel agent can for example, India, Malaysia or Indonesia.
help sort through the bureaucracy, or you However, we have received a few reports of
can drop by the MTT office, which charges foreign women being harassed while travel-
an extra US$2 for the service. You’ll need ling in Myanmar. Dressing modestly should
two copies of your passport details and visa, help to reduce the risk of sexual harassment.
two passport-sized photographs, and a let- Wear a local longyi instead of a skirt above
ter of recommendation from your hotel. the knee, and any old T-shirt instead of a
The process cannot be started in advance spaghetti-strap top.
or from elsewhere in Myanmar apart from If you didn’t bring tampons, they’re
Yangon. available at Yangon’s City Mart Supermar-
ket (p88).
Overstaying Your Visa Women travelling in Myanmar during
Another option, if you want just a couple the April Water Festival (Thingyan) should
more days, is overstaying your visa. Many take extra precautions. As in neighbouring
travellers have overstayed up to seven days Thailand, drunkenness and an ‘anything
without incident. Check with a Yangon goes’ atmosphere, combined with Western
travel agent before your visa’s up, but at women in tight, wet T-shirts, is apparently
research time there was generally little has- too much for some Myanmar men to bear –
sle if you overstayed if you were leaving we’ve heard of women being groped dur-
from the Yangon or Mandalay airports. Be ing the festival. Again, dressing modestly
prepared to spend at least 20 minutes doing should help to prevent such incidents.
some paperwork, and pay US$3 per day, ‘Ladies’ (per the posted signs in certain
plus a US$3 ‘registration fee’. Have correct areas) cannot go up some altars or onto decks
change, as immigration will likely not be around stupas, including the one affording a
able to change your US$100 bill. close-up look at the famous Golden Rock at
If you’re leaving overland to Thailand Kyaiktiyo (p149). Most locals tend to visit
on an expired visa, it’s best to enlist help teashops, restaurants or shops with members
from a travel agency before popping up at of the same sex.
the border. In one case an extra US$35 fee Asian women, even from other coun-
was slung onto the US$3-per-day penalty tries, travelling with a Western man may
to cross to Ranong, Thailand. It’s likely not encounter rude comments. In one case a
an official fee, but it seems to be regularly local explained to the heckler that they were
applied. not a couple, and the comments ceased.
354 www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 355
Air China (%01-505 024; www.airchina.com; airline picking up a one-way ticket to Yangon for
Transport code CA; B13/23 Narnattaw Rd, Kamayut Township) Flies

to/from Kunming.
Air Mandalay (Map p90; %01-525 488; www.air
US$90 or US$100 from there. If you’re get-
ting quoted obscene fares to Yangon – say
US$2500 or the equivalent from London
to Kawthoung (see p357 for more details mandalay.com; airline code 6T; 146 Dhamma Zedi Rd) or Los Angeles – look into getting tickets
on these). There is no way that foreigners Connects Mandalay with Chiang Mai. to Bangkok.
CONTENTS can reach Myanmar by land or sea from Biman Bangladesh Airlines (%01-275 882, 01-240 Once in Myanmar you can only buy
Bangladesh, India or Laos. At the time of 922; www.bimanair.com; airline code BG; 106-108 international tickets from travel agents or
Getting There & Away 354 research, a road link between Bangladesh Pansodan St) Flies to/from Bangkok and Dhaka. airline offices in Yangon.
Entering the Country 354 and Myanmar – strategically linking My- Indian Airlines Limited (Map p102; %01-253 598;
Air 354 anmar with India – was under construc- http://indian-airlines.nic.in; airline code IC; 127 Sule Paya AIR PASSES
Land 357 tion, though it is unlikely that this route Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok and Calcutta. If you’re coming from the USA, Malaysia
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
River & Sea 358 will be made open for foreigners to use. Malaysia Airlines (Map p102; %01-241 007; www Airlines’ Access Asia Pass allows flights
Tours 358 There is no requirement for you to show .malaysianair.com; airline code MH; 335 Bogyoke Aung San around 25 cities (including Yangon) over a
Getting Around 358 an onward ticket out of the country to enter Rd) Flies to/from Kuala Lumpur. 21-day period within Southeast Asia (cov-
Air 358 Myanmar. Myanmar Airways International (MAI; Map p102; ering all countries except Laos), and also
Bicycle 360 %01-255 260; www.maiair.com; airline code 8M; 123 Pakistan, Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Taiwan
Boat 361 Passport Sule Paya Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok, Delhi, Hong Kong, and – gulp – Sweden.
Bus 363 You will need to have a passport that has at Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
Car & Motorcycle 364 least six months of validity from the time Silk Air (Map p102; %01-255 287; www.silkair.com; INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW) TICKETS
Hitching 365 of entry. airline code MI; 339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Flies to/from The following online ticket agencies ar-
Local Transport 365 Singapore. range RTW tickets (which will get you to
Pick-up Trucks 366 AIR Thai Airways International (Thai; Map p102; Bangkok):
Tours 366 Airports & Airlines %01-255 499; www.thaiair.com; airline code TG; 1st fl, www.airbrokers.com
Train 366 All international flights arrive at Yangon 339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok and www.airstop.com
(Rangoon) airport (RGN), except flights Chiang Mai. www.airtreks.com
originating from Chiang Mai (Thailand) www.aroundtheworlds.com
GETTING THERE & that go directly to Mandalay airport (MDL).
Both airports can land DC10s, but only
The following are airlines with representa-
tives in Yangon, despite not offering direct Reconfirming Tickets
AWAY Mandalay’s airport (far more modern and
impressive than Yangon’s) can land Boe-
services to Myanmar:
Air France (Map p102; %01-255 430; www.airfrance.fr,
It’s important to reconfirm your outgoing
tickets from Myanmar a few days in ad-
ENTERING THE COUNTRY ing 747s. in French; airline code AF; 339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) vance for all airlines other than Thai Air-
If you’re arriving by air, and have your The most common route to Yangon is All Nippon Airways (ANA; Map p102; %01-248 901, ways and Silk Air. If you’ve forgotten what
visa ready (see p351) and your valid pass- via Bangkok, though flights also connect 01-255 412; www.ana.co.jp/eng; airline code NH; 339 time your flight is, the inside back page of
port in hand (see following), you should Yangon with Calcutta and Delhi (in India), Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Sakura Tower) the Myanmar Times lists the weeks’ inter-
have no trouble entering Myanmar. Arriv- Dhaka (Bangladesh), Hong Kong, Kuala China Airlines (%01-245 484; www.china-airlines national flight schedule.
ing so by land is less predictable. Presently Lumpur (Malaysia), Kunming (China) and .com; airline code CI; 353 Bo Aung Gyaw St)
you can cross at three places – from Ruili Singapore. EVA Air (%01-298 001; www.evaair.com; airline code Asia
(China) to Mu-se; from Mae Sai (Thailand) Airlines with offices in Yangon and regu- BR; 94 Bogalay Zay St) STA Travel (www.statravel.com) often has good
to Tachileik; and from Ranong (Thailand) lar international links with Myanmar: Japan Airlines (JAL; Map p102; %01-240 400; www.jal deals. It has branches in China, Hong Kong,
.co.jp; airline code JL; FMI Bldg, 380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines,
KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map p102; %01-274 466; Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand. Some
WARNING – THINGS CHANGE www.klm.com; airline code KL; c/o Myanma Airways, 104 other locally based agents that can help with
The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices for international travel Strand Rd) tickets:
are volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled, schedules change, special deals come and Korean Air (%01-661 524; www.koreanair.com; airline China China International Travel Service/FIT Office (in
go, and rules and visa requirements are amended. Airlines and governments seem to take a code KE; 2nd fl, 112 Pyay Rd, 8 Mile Junction) Kunming %0871 313 8888; King World Hotel) One-way
perverse pleasure in making price structures and regulations as complicated as possible. You fares from Kunming to Mandalay or Yangon are about Y1500.
should check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare See p358 for a list of domestic carriers.
(and ticket you may buy) works. In addition, the travel industry is highly competitive, and there
are many lurks and perks. Tickets DEPARTURE TAX
The upshot of this is that you should get opinions, quotes and advice from as many airlines Because most flights to Myanmar will in- The international departure tax of US$10
and travel agents as possible before you part with your hard-earned cash. The details given in volve changes of planes, possibly to a dif- is not included with your air ticket. Have
this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up- ferent airline, in Bangkok, it’s occasionally the US dollars in hand when leaving the
to-date research. possible to save money (up to US$1000!) by country. Kyat is not accepted.
taking a cheapie flight to Bangkok and then
356 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 357
Hong Kong Hong Kong Student Travel (%2730 2800; for flights between Paris and Yangon could found in Los Angeles, New York and other possessing a 28-day visa (obtained from
www.hkst.com.hk, in Cantonese only) be bought for €860. Recommended travel big cities. Bangkok or elsewhere) are permitted to
India STIC Travels (in Delhi %011-2335 7468; www agencies: One of the most reliable discounters is enter Myanmar here and travel to the rest of
.stictravel.com) Dozens of branches. It offers a Anyway (%08 92 89 38 92; www.anyway.fr, in French) Avia Travel (%800 950-2842, 510-558-2150; www the country. If you don’t have a visa, a US$5
R7700/13,500 one-way/return fare from Calcutta; return Nouvelles Frontières (%08 25 00 07 47; www.nouvelles .aviatravel.com), which specialises in custom- day pass (paid to Myanmar immigration on
from Delhi is about R11,500 on Myanma Airways. -frontieres.fr, in French) designed round-the-world fares. Travellers the spot) allows travel only within 5km of
Japan No 1 Travel (in Tokyo %03-3205 6073; www OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr, in French) Student oriented. aged under 26, including students, should town; a US$10 14-day pass, also obtainable
.no1-travel.com) No direct flights, but you can change in Voyageurs du Monde (%01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm.com) check with STA Travel (%800 781-4040; www.sta at the border, allows travel to Kengtung and
Bangkok. travel.com) for discount fares. Mong La.
Thailand Pilot Purely Tour Ltd (in Bangkok %02- GERMANY Agencies recommended for making on- It’s not a problem to leave Myanmar here,
281-8565; [email protected]; 139 Khao San Rd, Find fares at these online agencies: line bookings: as long as your visa hasn’t expired. See p352
Banglampu) Long-time resident company on Khao San Rd; Expedia (www.expedia.de, in German) www.cheaptickets.com for more on this.
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
sells one-way/return tickets to Yangon for B4400/7200. Just Travel (%089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de) www.expedia.com
Last Minute (%01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de) www.itn.net TO/FROM RANONG, THAILAND
You can often get pan-Asian fares cheaper STA Travel (%01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) www.lowestfare.com Travel agents in Ranong help arrange 28-
in Asia than from elsewhere. However, here www.orbitz.com day visas allowing you to cross into Kaw-
are some sample one-way fares for online OTHER COUNTRIES www.travelocity.com thoung (p169) and travel to the rest of
tickets purchased outside Asia: from Bang- Airfair (%020-620 5121; www.airfair.nl, in Dutch) A Myanmar. You can also enter the country
kok (US$165), Chiang Mai (US$165), Delhi recommended agency in the Netherlands. If the fares quoted to you are high, consider- for two days by purchasing a US$5 ‘day
(US$470), Hong Kong (US$470), Kuala CTS Viaggi (%06-462 0431; www.cts.it, in Italian) A ing buying two individual tickets – one to pass’, which doesn’t subject you to the same
Lumpur (US$460) and Singapore (US$560). student-oriented agent in Italy. Bangkok, then another to Yangon. Gener- 5km restriction.
Flights from Chaing Mai to Mandalay ally, flights to Bangkok are about US$200 Travellers can exit Myanmar here too.
on Air Mandalay cost about B5000 (about UK & Ireland cheaper from the west coast than from the Presently immigration charges US$25 for
US$130) one way. Look for advertisements in Time Out, the east coast (it’s about US$750 from Los Ange- you to do so; this is likely not an official fee
Evening Standard and the the Web-based TNT les in the high season, not including Christ- but seems to be pretty standard.
Australia & New Zealand Magazine Online (www.tntmagazine.com). Geared mas). It’s possible to book a return Bangkok
In Australia, STA Travel (%1300 733 035; www.sta towards students or travellers under 26 (but to Yangon flight online for about US$300, TO/FROM RUILI, CHINA
travel.com.au) and Flight Centre (%133 133; www helpful to all), popular STA Travel (%0870 which is about US$100 more than the cost At the time of research, you could come
.flightcentre.com.au) have offices throughout Aus- 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) has many branches of the day-in-advance return tickets easily into Myanmar from China, but not enter
tralia. An online booking agent is www.travel around the UK. bought in Bangkok. An early high-season China, at this border. You can arrange a
.com.au. Sample return fares from Sydney to Recommended travel agencies: sample fare for a return trip to Yangon was regular 28-day tourist visa in a day or two in
Yangon range from about A$1000 to A$1300, Bridge the World (%0870 444 7474; www.b-t-w.co.uk) US$1250 from New York; curiously, it was Kunming at the Myanmar Consulate (%0871-
including tax. Flight Centre (%0870 890 8099; www.flightcentre much more from LA (about US$2000). 371 6609; fax 0871-317 6309; Camellia Hotel, Bldg No 3;
In New Zealand, Flight Centre (%0800 243 .co.uk) h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri), in Yunnan
544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel (%0508 Flightbookers (%0870 010 7000; www.ebookers.com) LAND Province. The cost is Y185 to Y285, de-
782 872; www.statravel.co.nz) have many branches. North-South Travel (%01245-608 291; www.north Border Crossings pending on how quickly you need it.
The site www.travel.co.nz is good for online southtravel.co.uk) Part of the company’s profits goes to There are presently only three places to To cross overland at Ruili it’s necessary
bookings. projects in the developing world. cross into Myanmar overland. No bus or to book a multiday ‘visa-and-package trip’ –
Quest Travel (%0870 442 3542; www.questtravel.com) train service connects Myanmar with an- you can’t go on your own – to go across
Canada Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk) other country, nor can you travel by car or the border at Mu-Se and on to Lashio. This
Travel Cuts (%800 667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is Travel Bag (%0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk) motorcycle across the border – you must package costs about Y1400, generally about
Canada’s national student-travel agency. walk across. Have your visa before you get the same as a one-way flight to Mandalay
For online bookings, try www.expedia.ca We found sample return fares from London to the border (see p351). from Kunming. We’ve heard it can take
and www.travelocity.ca. It may be cheaper to Yangon from £650 to £1000 – often £500 Note that both border crossings with more than a week to arrange, or as little
to buy separate tickets – to Bangkok, then more if starting from Belfast, so consider Thailand involve reaching closed-off areas as two days. The package, which includes
to Yangon. There are far cheaper fares from getting a cheap fare to London and leaving of Myanmar, from where you will have to basic transport and a ‘guide’ to ensure all
New York than from Toronto or Montreal; from there. A one-way ticket is usually only fly to reach the other parts of the country goes OK, doesn’t include food or accom-
one sample fare from Toronto to Yangon was slightly cheaper than a return ticket. (including Yangon or Mandalay). The ma- modation. The border, at Ruili, is 20 hours
C$3200, while from New York the cost was jority of travellers crossing the border at by road from Kunming. The drive from
US$1250. USA these places are making day trips – or are Mu-Se (just across the border) to Lashio is
Discount travel agents in the USA are known seeking to renew a Thai visa. on a good portion of the old Burma Rd and
Continental Europe as consolidators (although you won’t see a takes about five hours.
FRANCE sign on the door saying ‘Consolidator’). San TO/FROM MAE SAI, THAILAND The China International Travel Service in
Gulf Air and Emirates Air often have bar- Francisco is the ticket consolidator capital of North of Chiang Rai it’s possible to cross to Kunming (see p355 for details) can arrange
gain flights from Paris to Bangkok. Tickets America, although some good deals can be dreary Tachileik (p202). Travellers already this package.
358 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M a j o r Pu b l i c T r a n s p o r t R o u t e s 359
RIVER & SEA In the wake of Visit Myanmar Year in CHINA

(TIBET)
It is not possible for foreigners to go to/ 1996, forced labour was reportedly used to
from Myanmar by sea or river. ready new airstrips. Many travellers avoid MAJOR PUBLIC TRANSPORT ROUTES
air travel, as taking a flight means that more BHUTAN
Pangsaw
Pass
Putao
TOURS money goes to the government.

Many foreign-run companies book package
tours to Myanmar. We’re not recommend- Airlines in Myanmar
ing them as, in most instances, more money Four airlines – three private ones and the INDIA
Khamti
will reach the local people if you travel on government-run Myanma Airways (MA) –
your own or arrange a driver and guide serve Myanmar’s domestic skyways. Most Myitkyina
from a locally based agent. See p26 for tips routes connect the big four: Yangon, Bagan
BANGLADESH
on arranging your own tour in Yangon. (Nyaung U), Mandalay and Heho (Inle CHINA
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Travel agents along Bangkok’s Khao San Lake). Daily flights also connect Yangon Tamu
Katha
Bhamo
Ruili
Rd offer a host of short-term package trips with Ngapali Beach (Thandwe). Even more Kawlinn
er
Namkham Mu-se
Mawlaik
Riv
to Myanmar, some of which are geared more far-flung airports, such as the ones at My- Tiddim
Ayeyarwady
Kalaymyo
to midrange locally run hotels than top- itkyina, Kengtung and Sittwe, see regular
Mogok
end joint-venture hotels. Four-night trips flights during the week. Following is the Hakha
Nanhsan Lashio
to Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan (Pagan) contact information for the offices in Yan- Shwebo
Hsipaw
start at US$329 to US$399, including hotels gon for the four airlines; the regional offices Monywa Mingun Kyaukme
Pyin U Lwin
and flight. are listed in the respective chapters. Sagaing
Mandalay
Mong La
Air Bagan (%01-514 741, 01-513 322; www.airbagan Pakokku Myingyan
.com; airline code AB; 56 Shwe Taung Gyar St, Bahan) New Mt Victoria
GETTING AROUND
Nyaung U Pindaya Kengtung
(3053m) Bagan Mt Popa Meiktila Taunggyi
privately run carrier that started up in 2004. Mrauk U Kyaukpadaung Thazi
Heho
Nyaungshwe
Air Mandalay (Map p90; %01-525 488; www.air Minbya Kalaw
Inle Kakku Tachilek
LAOS
Minbu Magwe
Much of Myanmar is off limits to foreign- mandalay.com; airline code 6T; 146 Dhamma Zedi Rd) Sittwe Lake Mae Sai
ers or can only be accessed after getting Running since 1994, this is a Singapore/Malaysia joint Pyinmana
Ayeyarwady
permission or by taking an expensive tour venture.
organised by the government’s Myanmar Myanma Airways (MA; Map p102; %01-374 874, 01- Taunggok Pyay
Taungoo
Travels & Tours (MTT). But in the places 277 013; fax 01-373 828; 104 Strand Rd) Government airline. Bay of Shwedaung
Bengal
where you are able to go there’s surprising Yangon Airways (Map p102; %01-383 106; www.yan Thandwe Ngapali
Riv
freedom to stop and roam where you want. gonair.com; airline code HK; MMB Tower, Level 5, 166 Upper
er
See the map on p359 for transport routes Pansodan Rd) Thai joint venture operating since 1996, with
Kyaiktiyo
that were open at research time. Some iso- a cute flying-elephant logo; their slogan ‘you’re safe with Bago
lated towns such as Kengtung, Sittwe and us’ is a poke at government-run Myanma Airways’ safety Chaungtha
Ngwe Saung Thaton
Hpa-an
Kawthoung require jumps by air or bus to record. Pathein

YANGON Myawadi
Mawlamyaine
reach. Letkhokkon
Beach
It’s worth adding that the government is Schedules Kyaikkami Thanbyuzayat
very happy about their (literal, not political) Mouths of the

Gulf
of
bridge building, capped by the country’s larg- Air routes change in the air; that’s how Ayeyarwady
Mottama Payathonzu THAILAND
est in Mawlamyine (Moulmein); this 3km domestic we are.
bridge over the Thanlwin (Salween) River Yangon travel agent
was completed in 2004. See the list of bridges Dawei
at www.myanmar.com/build/bridge. The agent is not joking. These comments are Border Crossing
particularly true of MA flights, where dates Rail Route
AIR and departure times are often not written Air Route
ANDAMAN
Myanmar has 66 (and counting) airstrips on your ticket, so the airline doesn’t have Boat Route
SEA
Government Permission Routes
around the country, of which 20 are served to honour the days and hours for which Closed Roads
Myeik
by regular flights. Many are located 20 or reservations were originally made. (In some This map outlines major open public
30 minutes by car outside town. In many cases, if officials are flying somewhere – say transport and restricted routes for foreigners.
These routes may change without notice.
towns you’ll note new, spotless, largely to Lashio – seats may open to the public.)
Gulf
empty airports serving, well, no flights. One Schedules are more reliable on the other of
Magwe resident said: ‘Our airport? It’s for three airlines, and between main destina- Thailand
show. We don’t get flights here’. As with in- tions during the high season. Sometimes
ternational flights, domestic flights involve ‘direct’ flights from, say, Bagan to Thandwe Kawthoung
Ranong
immigration and customs checks. (Sandoway) stop in Yangon.
360 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t 361
Bikes can easily be hired around the country, usually have only locally or Chinese-made can reach Myitkyina. Other important riv-
AIRPORT CODES but they’re best for getting around a town parts to equip single-speed bikes. You can ers include the Twante Chaung (Twante
Many posted flight schedules around the rather than for use on long-haul trips. also buy lower-quality motorcycle helmets Chanel), which links the Ayeyarwady to
country only use domestic airport codes. here; many are disturbingly adorned with Yangon, and the Chindwin River, which
Bhamo BMO Around Town swastikas – a fad, not a political alliance. joins the Ayeyarwady a little above Bagan.
Dawei (Tavoy) TVY In places such as Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Bring reflective clothing and plenty of in- The Thanlwin River in the east is only navi-
Heho (Inle Lake) HEH Lake you’ll see ‘bike rental’ signs; rates start surance. Don’t ride at night. gable for about 200km from its mouth at
Kawthoung KAW at K500 to K1000 per day. Most guesthouses Travellers on a bike will need to sleep in Mawlamyine, though the five-hour trip to
Kengtung KET in such places keep a few bikes on hand; if towns few travellers make it to, and a lack of Hpa-an is one of the country’s most scenic
Mandalay MDL not, staff can usually track one down. More licensed accommodation may be an issue. waterway journeys (see p157).
Myeik MGZ expensive hotels and secondary towns such Technically, you will need permission from It takes great expertise to navigate My-
Myitkyina MYT as Sittwe tend to charge K1000 or K2000 local immigration to stay at such places. Be anmar’s waterways. Rapidly changing sand-
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Nyaung U (Bagan) NYU more. Note the condition of the bike be- patient. Most cyclists get permission from banks and shallow water during the dry
Sittwe AKY fore hiring; check the brakes and pedals in local authorities to stay one night, but the season mean the captains and pilots have
Tachileik THL particular. Many rental bikes have baskets paperwork (coming with some frowns) to keep in constant touch with the chang-
Thandwe (Ngapali Beach) SNY or bells. may take an hour to arrange. ing pattern of the river flows. For example,
Yangon RGN If renting doesn’t appeal and you plan to It’s possible to store your bicycle in seven pilots are used on the stretch from
ride a fair bit, you can buy sturdy utilitar- the undercarriage storage on buses. You Mandalay to Pyay (Prome). Each is an ex-
ian bikes made in India, China or Thailand may have to pay a little extra, though. On pert on his own particular segment of the
You can find some schedule information from about US$75. Someone may be able smaller buses you may need to buy a ‘seat’ river.
on the airline websites and at www.myan to help you track down a second-hand bike for your bike. In addition to the rivers, it’s possible
mar.com/information/flight.htm. for less. Check the Myanmar webpage on www to travel along the Bay of Bengal between
Apart from in Yangon and Mandalay, .cyclingaroundtheworld.com to read a de- Sittwe and Taunggok (north of Ngapali
Tickets vehicular traffic is quite light. tailed route, with tips, from a 1998 trip Beach); see p318.
One-way fares are half a return fare, and can around Bagan and central Myanmar. A Note that higher-priced cruises are either
usually be bought a day in advance. To buy a Long-Distance few cycling groups (eg www.spiceroads privately run boats on lease from the gov-
ticket, you’ll need to pay with US dollars or A few visitors bring their own touring bikes .com/burma) offer guided tours; most are ernment or a joint-venture operation.
FEC (see p345), and bring your passport to into Myanmar; there doesn’t seem to be any for about two weeks and take in much of
the travel agent or airline office. It’s some- problem with customs as long as you make the same ground covered in the 1998 trip. Cargo Ships
times difficult to buy a ticket that departs the proper declarations upon entering the Prices for tours run at about US$1750, and Although the obstacles standing in your way
from a town other than the one you are in. country. Gradients in most parts of Myan- include bike and accommodation but not are daunting, it may be possible to travel
You can usually get discounts (maybe mar open to tourism are moderate. Frontier airfare. along Myanmar’s coastline via Myanma Five
US$10 per ticket) by buying from an inde- regions, on the other hand – particularly Star Line (MFSL; in Yangon %01-295 279; fax 01-295 174;
pendent travel agent. Shan, Kayin, Kayah and Chin States – tend BOAT 132/136 Theinbyu St), the country’s government-
MA tickets are generally a bit cheaper to be mountainous. You’ll find plenty of A huge fleet of riverboats, remnants of the owned ocean transport enterprise. MFSL
than the other airlines’. But that discount opportunity everywhere for dirt-road and old Irrawaddy Flotilla Company (IFC), still maintains just 21 craft, which sail north and
comes with a ride on the government’s off-road pedalling. Especially in the north, ply Myanmar’s major rivers, where the bulk south from Yangon about twice a month.
dated fleet of Fokker F-28 jets and F-27 where main roads can resemble secondary of traveller-oriented boat travel gets done. Only eight vessels sometimes offer passen-
turboprops, and their iffy safety record roads elsewhere, a sturdy mountain bike Some boats are ramshackle (but certainly ger service: MV Taunggyi, MV Hakha, MV
(see p336 for details). Rumours persist that would make a good alternative to a tour- lively) government ferries, some date from Myitkyina, MV Loikaw, MV Lashio, MV
safety procedures haven’t been updated ing rig. the British era and others are old-style IFC Bagan, MV Hpa-an and MV Htonywa.
since the 1950s. It’s also worth noting that Some routes are listed below. More detail liners that run luxury cruises. River ferry is, Southbound MFSL ships from Yangon
some intelligence officials, arrested in Oc- about these routes is provided on p332. without doubt, one of the most enjoyable sail regularly to Kawthoung, a two-day
tober 2004 (when prime minister Khin Nyit Thazi to Inle Lake via Kalaw ways to cover long distances in Myanmar. and two-night voyage (at least), to pick up
was ousted), flew MA to their new homes in Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo) to Lashio via See p32 for an itinerary suggestion that goes goods shipped through Thailand’s Ranong
up-country prisons. You have to go to MA Hsipaw down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. Province, with stops at Dawei and Myeik
or the government’s MTT office to pur- Mandalay to Bagan via Myingyan The main drawback is speed; a boat typically (Mergui).
chase tickets on that airline. Mandalay to either Monywa, Pyin U takes three to four times as long as road Northbound ships call at Thandwe (a full
All prices for airline tickets should in- Lwin, Sagaing, Inwa (Ava) or Amarapura travel along the same route. day from Yangon), Taunggok and Kyaukpyu
clude US$3 for ‘insurance’. There is no do- There are 8000km of navigable river in (one night ashore) before docking in Sittwe
mestic departure tax. November to February is the best time to Myanmar, with the most important river (five hours later) for cargo from India and
cycle in terms of the weather. being the Ayeyarwady. Even in the dry Bangladesh.
BICYCLE If you’re bringing your bike, bring the season, boats can travel from the delta re- Schedules can be irregular. If you’re bent
You’ll sure see a lot: bicycles are clearly the spare parts you need. There are (at least) gion (dodging exposed sandbars) all the on trying for a ticket, it would be best to
number one means for locals to get around. basic bicycle shops in most towns, but they way north to Bhamo, and in the wet they have a local make inquiries on your behalf.
362 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B u s 363
Private Ferries (www.orient-expresstrains.com/tplanner/rtm/index.html) Similar trips are offered by Pandaw 1947 route, you can jump on a bus at a stop along
A thousand or so private cargo and passen- offers three-, four-, seven-, nine- and 11-day (%01-376 109; www.pandaw1947.com), apparently the way, eg catch the Mandalay to Yangon
ger boats travel the waterways of Myanmar. trips (ranging from US$1950 to US$4200 run by a Yangon travel agency. bus at Meiktila. Staff at your guesthouse or
That is just a pale shadow of the former per person) that centre on Mandalay. The A far cheaper option (US$170 per per- hotel should be able to help with this.
glory of the original Glasgow-owned IFC, most popular connect Mandalay with Ba- son), yet retaining a little luxury and going A bottle of water is often handed out on
which ceased operations in 1948. We have gan. The three-day trip downriver from where fewer tourists go, is available aboard better-quality buses. There are no bath-
tried to give preference to private ferries Mandalay leaves on Wednesday (weekly the privately run Delta Queen (%01-246 752; rooms on the bus, but frequent toilet-and-
throughout this book. from October to April, monthly July to www.myanmar-rivercruises.com), which travels be- soup stops perforate the night – frustrating
September), and the four-day return trip tween Yangon and Pathein in about 20 hours if you’ve just got to sleep and the bus stops at
Government Ferries from Bagan goes on Saturday (weekly from (p134). 3am for ‘breakfast’. Often TVs blare for much
Inland Water Transport (IWT; Map p98; in Yangon October to April, monthly July to Septem- of the trip – usually sticking with Myanmar-
%01-284 055; Strand St) is the government- ber). Longer trips venture further north, BUS made movies detailing things such as, oh,
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
owned water-transport corporation. It has up the Ayeyarwady to Bhamo, or up the Almost always faster than trains, Myan- protagonists dying bloody deaths in car
over 500 boats totalling nearly 1.5 million Chindwin past Kalaymyo. Yangon travel mar buses come in different sizes. Options crashes, but the occasional Raiders of the
tonnes and carrying at least 14 million pas- agents can help arrange this, but ships are include luxury air-con express buses, less Lost Ark slips in.
sengers annually. often booked in advance. luxurious but nice buses (without air con), Be aware that temperatures can drop sub-
Today most of the IWT boats are rather A locally run operation is Pandaw Cruises local buses, and mini 32-seaters. Most are stantially at night. Take a jacket or blanket
run down and ramshackle. Many of the (%02-44256; www.pandaw.com; 13/14 Strand Rd, btwn operated by private companies, but some – (preferably both) on air-con buses in par-
passengers on the long-distance ferries are 35th & 37th Sts, Mandalay), which offers three 12- particularly on shorter routes that are geared ticular, which can get quite bone-chillingly
traders who make stops along the way to day trips in ships done up like the original more to locals bringing home rice – are still cold.
pick up or deliver goods. Along the heav- teak-and-brass IFC fleet. The Golden Land run by the government. Similar sized but older buses, with no air
ily travelled 423km-long Yangon–Pyay– trip goes from Pyay to Mandalay via Bagan; See Pick-up Trucks, p366 for other trans- con, make shorter-haul trips, such as direct
Mandalay route, there are 28 ferry landings, prices run from US$3150 to US$3450, and port options. links from Yangon to Pyay or Pyinmana
where merchants can ply their trade. ships depart weekly from early November to Yangon.
Only a few riverboat routes are regularly to March. The Upper Ayeyarwady trip, Classes & Conditions Local buses, or 32-seat minibuses, bounce
used by visitors. New ‘tourist boats’ carry heading north of Mandalay to Bhamo, is Many long-haul trips, such as from Yangon along the highways too. These tend to use
foreigners on the upper deck and locals on US$3450 to US$3950; ships depart weekly to Mandalay, allow the greatest comfort, the aisles, if not for blokes, for bags of rice,
the lower. Key routes: from mid-September to early November. A with new(ish) air-con express buses – some veggies or (worst) dried fish. Sometimes the
Mandalay to Bagan (see p243) lone September trip up the Chindwin River of which are quite nice. A lot of bus activity floor in front of you is filled too, so you’ll find
Mandalay to Myitkyina via Katha and for 12 days is cheap, at US$1950. At the happens at night, with buses leaving from your knees to your chin for some bouncy
Bhamo (see p219 and p221) time of research, Pandaw Cruises’ permit 3pm to 6pm or later, and arriving at the hours. Getting up to stretch your legs while
Mawlamyine to Hpa-an (see p157) to operate was up in the air, but apparently final destination in the wee hours (often moving just isn’t an option. (Try to sit in the
Sittwe to Mrauk U (Myohaung; see p322) things are being worked out. 5am or 6am). front couple of rows, which sometimes have
Yangon to Pathein (Bassein; see p122) If you want extra air-con comfort but fewer bags stored, and better visibility.)
don’t want to go the whole way on one of Trip durations for all forms of public road
There is no direct service between Yangon HELP WITH TRANSPORT these routes, you usually have to pay the transportation are very elastic. We hear of
and Mandalay – to do the trip, you’ll need to Your guesthouse or hotel can help you full fare (eg going from Mandalay to Taun- travellers on the nicest buses who were
change boats in Pyay, a two-day trip south considerably by getting whatever tickets goo you pay the full fare to Yangon) and stopped for hours on the Yangon–Mandalay
of Bagan and two days north of Yangon. you need (air, bus, boat, train) or by find- will have to deal with a 3am arrival time. highway. (The LP authors on this book
IWT offices are usually near the jetty. ing a long-distance taxi – or even by find- Similarly, by paying the full fare for the had no such troubles, however.) Myanmar
They can offer information, schedules and ing shifting bus stations! Sometimes the
fare details, and usually tickets. IWT offices, price quoted by the guesthouse owner,
officially, accept US dollars and FEC only. particularly for taxis, will fluctuate depend- ITINERARIES & OVERNIGHTERS
ing on how much your bed costs. Often, There’s not one obvious way to travel by bus between Myanmar’s big four – Yangon, Bagan, Inle
Luxury Boats though, you’ll only pay what you’d pay if Lake and Mandalay. Some of these places have far fewer connections than others. Most trips
Be aware that the higher-priced cruises are you traipsed across town to do it yourself. are at night, which can take a day or two to recover from – depending on your inner shocks
either privately run boats on lease from the Some may charge extra for a commission; from the bus bumps. Catching a bus from Yangon on the 12- to 15-hour trip to Mandalay is a
government or a joint-venture operation. it’s not a bad idea to ask around the street breeze, but only one or two services regularly connect to Inle Lake or Bagan – and all of these
You can book services with travel agents in to gauge the prices. are overnighters. Trips between Bagan, Inle and Mandalay can be done by day (though only one
Yangon, but keep in mind that many trips Usually the MTT office offers taxi service or two run daily, and seats fill a couple of days in advance).
are booked out by tour groups. for only slightly more than the going fare – Another good way to cut back on overnighters is by hopping off en route to or from Yangon
Several luxury ferries travel the upper use their quote only as a gauge, if you’re and stopping for a night at appealing towns such as Taungoo (p290), Pyinmana (p289), Meiktila
and lower reaches of the Ayeyarwady River. keen to spend dollars that don’t reach the (p287) or Pyay (p283 ). These places can be reached by pick-up or local bus, which operate
One Orient Express Cruises (E&O, Lon- government sector. during the day.
don) liner, the joint-venture Road to Mandalay
364 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g 365
superstition says that when you’re on a expensive (about K2000 per gallon at the
journey you shouldn’t ask anyone ‘How ROAD RULES: TO THE RIGHT! BEWARE JUNK CARS time of research). When Myanmar vehicle
much longer?’, or ‘Brother, when will we All Myanmar traffic goes on the right-hand We hear reports of some travellers having owners make an upcountry ‘road trip’ (the
arrive?’, as this is only tempting fate. side of the road. This wasn’t always so. In to abandon travelling in a ‘junk car’. The Burmese-English term for any driving out
Buses of all types do break down some- an effort to distance itself from the British wisest thing to do before you hire a car is of Yangon), they have to buy fuel on the
times. Older buses often stop to hose down colonial period, the military government in- to ask at a guesthouse or hotel for reliable black market or carry along numerous jerry
a hot engine. Some roads – one-lane, man- stigated an overnight-switch from the left drivers, and also ask a travel agent or two. cans of petrol.
gled deals (read: very rough) – don’t help to the right in 1970. By far, most cars ei- Be sure to meet the driver and see the car Another small cost to consider when trav-
matters, and tyre punctures occur too. ther date from before 1970, or are low-cost before making a decision to hire. elling by car is the customary K25 or K50
Japanese models, so steering wheels are ‘toll’ collected upon entering many towns
GOVERNMENT BUS perilously found on the right-hand side – and villages throughout Myanmar – a legacy
Formerly, many buses were operated by the this becomes particularly dicey when a way of making a day trip. It’s quite easy to of the tributes paid to warlord states in cen-
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
government’s Road Transport Enterprise driver blindly zooms to the left to pass a hire a reasonably new, air-con car with a turies past. Many drivers are adept at hand-
(RTE). Now essentially only buses between car! If you’re in the passenger seat, help driver for around US$100 a day; older cars ing these to the toll collectors while barely
Yangon and Monywa, and Yangon and them look for oncoming traffic. without air con cost about half that. For slowing down.
Kyaukpadaung, are RTE. These are more longer-term trips you can negotiate lower
geared towards transporting cargo. There’s daily rates. Motorcycle
no clear sign to indicate which vehicles be- Restricted Roads Prices include fuel and up to 12 hours Motorbikes were once restricted for foreign-
long to the RTE, but it’s very unlikely you’ll Foreigners are permitted to buy bus tickets of driving per day, and you won’t have to ers, but it’s now possible to rent one, though
be on one. of any class, using kyat, to any destination cover the driver’s own expenses. The cost few locals advertise this. Ask around. In
within or near the main Yangon–Bagan– will usually go up only a few US dollars per Mandalay, for example, it’s about K8000
Costs Mandalay–Taunggyi quadrangle. We also extra person in the car or van. per day to rent a motorbike; it’s a couple
Unlike for train, plane and most boat tick- found that buses were easily boarded in Keep in mind that it can get quite dusty, of thousand kyat less in towns such as My-
ets, you can pay kyat for all bus fares. But, most other places in the country, except particularly around Bagan, if you don’t itkyina. Unlike while cycling, you are sup-
similarly, foreigners will pay more than lo- for areas of restricted travel towards the have air con. posedly required to wear a helmet while
cals. Generally minibuses, local 32-seaters, Thai border. See the map on p359 for roads There are no car-rental agencies per se, riding a motorbike. If one’s not available,
express buses with no air con, and air-con that are closed to travel. but most travel agencies in Yangon, Man- you can buy one (pretty cheaply made) for
luxury jobbies charge roughly the same on dalay or Bagan – as well as guesthouses K2000 and up.
overlapping routes. Sample foreigner fares CAR & MOTORCYCLE and hotels elsewhere – can arrange cars and
and trip times: Many travellers hire a car and an accom- drivers. In most cases you will be asked to HITCHING
panying driver. To drive one yourself is sign a simple contract and pay a good-faith Hitching is never entirely safe in any coun-
From To Price Duration possible, but permission must be arranged deposit. Note that you’ll pay more for your try in the world, and we don’t recommend
via the government-run MTT and Road hired car if you arrange the deal through it. Travellers who decide to hitch should
Bagan Taunggyi K6000 10hrs Transport Administration Department, touts, such as trishaw drivers and money- understand that they are taking a small
Mandalay Bagan K4200 8hrs and you must be accompanied by a local changers. but potentially serious risk. People who do
Mandalay Hsipaw K2300 5hrs at all times. Among the most popular and reliable choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in
Mandalay Taunggyi K4500 10-12hrs Business travellers and expats have to rental cars in the country are second-hand, pairs and let someone know where they are
Pyay Taunggok K2500-K4000 8hrs apply to and register with the Road Trans- reconditioned Toyota hatchbacks imported planning to go.
Yangon Bagan K6500 14-15hrs port Administration Department and have from Japan and called Super-roofs. Myan- One extra reason to avoid hitching in
Yangon Bago (Pegu) K500-K1000 2hrs an International Driving Licence. These mar assembles its own Mazda jeeps – MJs – Myanmar is that local drivers may not know
Yangon Chaungtha K5000 6-7hrs visitors are not bound by the restriction to using 85% local parts. Though mostly a which areas are off limits to foreigners and
Yangon Kyaiktiyo K2500 4½hrs have a Myanmar national in the car at all government monopoly, these jeeps make may unwittingly transport them into such
Yangon Mandalay K6000 12-15hrs times. Anyway, we see our foreign friends decent off-road vehicles. The old US-made, areas. In such cases the driver will probably
Yangon Taunggyi K6000 20hrs driving alone. WWII-era Willys Jeeps that once character- be punished.
Yangon Pyay K1550 6hrs Driving conditions are poor but often ised outback Myanmar travel are becoming
Yangon Thandwe K4500 17-18hrs better than on many roads in Vietnam, few and far between. LOCAL TRANSPORT
Cambodia or Laos. Of the 24,000km of Prices for new cars have risen with recent Larger towns in Myanmar offer a variety
Reservations roads in Myanmar, about half are paved; inflation: from about US$3000 in 1996 to of city buses (ka), bicycle rickshaws or
From November to February, it’s necessary the remainder are graded gravel, unim- US$20,000 in 2004. trishaws (saiq-ka, for sidecar), horse carts
to book buses that ply some key routes a proved dirt or simple vehicle tracks. Petrol is rationed (four gallons per week) (myint hlei), ox carts, vintage taxis (taxi),
couple of days in advance, notably to/from to vehicle owners. If you need more than more modern little three-wheelers some-
Bagan or Inle Lake, where options are few. Hiring a Car & Driver this you’ll have to purchase petrol from what akin to Thai tuk-tuks (thoun bein,
Seat reservations are made for all buses. Hiring a car and driver is an increasingly black-market outlets run from makeshift meaning ‘three wheels’), tiny four-wheeled
Ask to see the bus ahead of time to choose popular way to get around the country; stands everywhere. Prices rise and fall, ‘blue taxi’ Mazdas (lei bein, meaning ‘four
the seat you’d like. it’s also favoured as an easier, time-saving but black-market petrol is usually twice as wheels’) and modern Japanese pick-up
366 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • Pi c k- U p T r u c k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T r a i n 367
trucks (lain ka, meaning ‘line car’; see Pick- out, you can still do it and keep your money express trains that are more pleasant than from Bago there’s a branch southeast to
Up Trucks, below). in the private sector. See p26 for tips on the state-run express trains. These trains Kyaiktiyo (the jumping-off point for the
Small towns rely heavily on horse carts creating your own package trip. Some re- stop at Thazi. See departure times in the Golden Rock; see p149) and on to Mottawa,
and trishaws as the main mode of local stricted areas can only be visited on a tour; table, p368. a short ferry ride from Mawlamyine.
transport. However, in the five largest cities see p106 for details. For details of bicycle Two private companies, Malihka Man- An express line now runs between Bagan/
(Yangon, Mandalay, Pathein, Mawlamyine tours, see p361. dalar and Mehka Mandalar, operate trains Nyaung U and Mandalay (though this was
and Taunggyi) public buses take regular along the Mandalay–Myitkyina line. On built with forced labour in the mid-1990s).
routes along the main avenues for a fixed TRAIN this route the only alternative is the very At Mandalay there are three branch lines:
per-person rate, usually K5 to K25. There are as many opinions of Myanmar’s slow and uncomfortable government train. one running slightly northwest across the
Standard rates for taxis, trishaws and oft-maligned train service as there are For information on reserving a seat on a Ava Bridge and up to Ye-U, one directly
horse carts are sometimes ‘boosted’ for for- people riding it. For some a train ride on privately run train, see p368. north to Myitkyina in Kachin State and one
eigners. A little bargaining may be in order. narrow-gauge tracks is like going by horse, northeast through Pyin U Lwin to Lashio in
Myanma Railways
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Generally a ride from the bus station to a with the old carriages rocking back and the northern part of Shan State.
central hotel – often a distance of 2km or forth and bouncing everyone lucky enough Myanmar maintains 4684km of 1m-gauge Note also that Myanmar trains are clas-
more – is K1000. Rides around the cen- to have a seat on the hard chairs; others dig railway track – much of which is now sified by a number and the suffix Up for
tre can be arranged for K200 or K300. Ask it, as some routes get to areas not reached open to foreign tourists – and 550 train northbound trains or Down for south-
around locally to find out what the going by road. One local said, ‘It’s not as bad as stations. bound trains. Train numbers are not always
fares are. The supply of drivers and vehicles some people say, not as good as you hope’. The 647km-long trip from Yangon to used when purchasing tickets.
often exceeds demand, so it’s usually not What’s known for sure is that train trips Mandalay is the only train trip most visi-
hard to bargain the fare down towards the along the same routes as buses mean extra tors take – though there are plenty of other Classes
levels the locals pay. travel time. routes for the more adventurous. Other Express trains offer two classes of passage,
As most trains are run by the government, train journeys worth considering are the upper class and ordinary class, while many
PICK-UP TRUCKS many travellers stick with private buses. But Mandalay (or Pyin U Lwin) train to Lashio trains also offer sleepers. The main differ-
Japanese-made pick-up trucks feature three see below for details of some privately run (or Hsipaw), which takes in hilly terrain the ences between ordinary and upper are that
rows of bench seats in the covered back. services. roads miss, and the Yangon to Mawlamyine the seats recline and can be reserved in the
Most pick-ups connect short-distance des- Long-distance trains have dining cars route. latter, while ordinary class features hard
tinations, making many stops along the accessible to passengers in 1st, upper and On the Yangon to Mandalay route there upright seats that can’t be reserved. Some
way to pick up people or cargo. They are sleeper class. The food isn’t bad – fried rice are daily and nightly reserved carriages on trains also offer another class of service
often packed (yet somehow never ‘full’ ac- and noodles. Attendants can also take your express trains, where you can be sure of called 1st class, which is a step down from
cording to the driver). Pick-ups trace some order and bring food to your seat. Trains getting a seat. One way to tell whether an upper in comfort.
useful or necessary routes, such as from stop pretty often too, with vendors on plat- approaching train is express or local is to The No 15 Up/No 16 Down train be-
Mandalay to Amarapura, from Myingyan forms offering all sorts of snacks. Toilet/ check the engine colour: express engines tween Yangon and Mandalay is a ‘special
to Meiktila and from Pyinmana to Taun- bathrooms are basic; there are also sinks are generally painted yellow; local ones express’ that uses relatively new Chinese
goo. Unlike buses, they go regularly during to wash hands and brush teeth. Attendants blue. equipment. The upper-class Chinese cars
the day. sometimes hire out bamboo mats to spread The express trains are far superior to contain 30 wide seats in rows of three; other
Fares are not necessarily cheaper than on the floor in aisles or under seats if you the general run of Myanmar trains. Other express trains may use older South Korean
those charged for local bus trips of the same can’t sleep upright. North of Mandalay it trains are late, almost by rule – taking one cars that also seat three across but contain
length, and prices often double after dark. can get cold at night, so bring a jacket and/ 12-hour train trip that ends up running as 40 seats (so there’s less room).
You can, however, pay 25% to 50% extra or a blanket. much as 15 hours late is enough for most The No 15 Up/No 16 Down and the No
for a seat up the front. It’s often worth the To guarantee a seat on most trains with travellers. The Mandalay to Myitkyina 17 Up/No 18 Down trains also have sleep-
extra expense, if don’t want to do scrunch upper and sleeper cars, book three days or route, though scheduled to take around ing cars. These are sometimes occupied
duty. Sometimes you may share your spot more in advance. At smaller stations, agents 24 hours, often takes up to 40 hours. In by Myanmar VIPs or foreign tour groups.
with a monk riding for free; usually you may get confused by the fact that you want 1995 this train derailed, killing 120 people, Some sleeping cars contain five cabins,
get exactly what you pay for (‘the whole a ticket from them and sell you a ride at the and in 2001 a bridge collapsed, killing an each with four berths, a fan, a light and a
front’), unlike in some other parts of South- local price – the difference can be paying equal number. Even on the far more trav- small table with a washbasin underneath.
east Asia. K250 instead of K4000! elled Yangon–Mandalay route, delays are Older sleeping cars are divided into two
Pick-ups often start from the bus sta- Major train routes tend to require pay- common. sections, each with four berths and a toilet
tion (in some towns they linger under a big ment in US dollars or FEC. Apart from the straightforward Yangon– and shower room.
banyan tree in the centre) and then, unlike Bago–Pyinmana–Thazi–Mandalay route, Foreigners aren’t permitted to ride in
many buses, make rounds through the cen- Private Railways you can also take the branch line from ordinary class on the Yangon to Mandalay
tral streets to snare more passengers. Although most trains are operated by the Pyinmana to Kyaukpadaung (about 50km line.
government-owned Myanma Railways, a south of Bagan) or the branch from Thazi
TOURS few private enterprises have come into ex- to Shwen-yaung (about 11km north of Inle Costs
Many high-end hotels offer expensive day istence as well. Between Yangon and Man- Lake). From Yangon lines also run north- Following are sample fares and scheduled
tours. If you want to have your trip planned dalay, the private Dagon Mann (DM) runs west to Pyay, with a branch to Pathein; times as quoted in Yangon.
368 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T r a i n www.lonelyplanet.com
YANGON TO MANDALAY TRAINS

The main trains of interest to travellers are listed below
Yangon to Mandalay via Thazi

Train departure arrival arrival fare (1st class) fare
(Yangon) (Thazi) (Mandalay) (Thazi) (Mandalay) (sleeper)*
11 Up 6am 5.52pm 9.10pm US$26 US$30 n/a

17 Up 3.15pm 2.35am 5.20am na US$45 US$48-50
(Dagon-Mann)
15 Up 5pm 5.15am 8am na US$35 n/a
TRANSPORT
(Special Express)
5 Up 6.30pm 6.17am 9.40am US$26 US$30 US$33
3 Up 7.30pm 8.37am noon US$26 US$30 US$33
Mandalay to Yangon via Thazi

Train departure arrival arrival fare (1st class) fare
(Mandalay) (Thazi) (Yangon) (Thazi) (Yangon) (sleeper)*
18 Down 3.15pm 6.15pm 6.20am na US$45 US$48-50

(Dagon-Mann)
16 Down 4.15pm 7.15pm 7.15am US$15 US$35 n/a
6 Down 5.15pm 8.15pm 8.25am US$15 US$30 US$33
4 Down 6.15pm 9.13pm 10.40am US$15 US$30 US$33
* Note that fares for a sleeper to/from Thazi are the same as those to Mandalay or Yangon.
Reservations season (November to March), when berths

For bookings on the private Yangon– are booked weeks in advance. If you hold a
Mandalay or Mandalay–Myitkyina train seat on a train pulling a sleeper car, you can
services, hook up with travel agents; see try to upgrade to a berth after you board. If
p89 for Yangon and p229 for Mandalay. any berths are available due to last-minute
For government-run services along the cancellations, you should be able to move
Yangon–Mandalay line, all foreigners are from seat to berth by paying the additional
supposed to purchase tickets from the MTT fare directly to the conductor.
or from the Advance Booking Office (Bogyoke Aung To buy tickets at other train stations you
San Rd; h6am-10am & 1-4pm), directly opposite can use the same ticket windows as the
the Sakura Tower. MTT sets aside seats for locals. For common tourist destinations –
foreigners, which means that they often have Bago, Pyin U Lwin, Kyaiktiyo – a US dollar/
seats when the booking office or station FEC fare is usually collected. Going to other
window says that the train is full. Contrary points via nonexpress trains, you may be
to rumour, we found the fares to be exactly able to pay in kyat – but consider yourself
the same at both places, though prices differ lucky if you can.
according to which express train you take, If you’re having trouble buying a ticket
even along the same line. A day’s notice is or making yourself understood at a train
usually enough to book a seat. station, try seeking out the stationmaster –
If you want to try your luck at getting a the person at the station who is most likely
coveted sleeper, you’ll need at least a couple to speak English and most inclined to help
of days’ notice – longer during the high you get a seat.
369
Health Dr Trish Batchelor
medical conditions and medications, in-

cluding generic names, is also a good idea.
CONTENTS If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to
have a physician’s letter documenting their
Before You Go 369 medical necessity. If you have a heart con-
Insurance 369 dition, bring a copy of your ECG taken just
Recommended Vaccinations 370 prior to travelling.
Medical Checklist 370 If you take any regular medication bring
Internet Resources 371 double your needs in case of loss or theft.
Further Reading 371
In Transit 371 INSURANCE
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 371 Even if you are fit and healthy, don’t travel
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 371 without health insurance – accidents do
In Myanmar 372 happen. Declare any existing medical con-
Availability of Health Care & Costs 372 ditions you have – the insurance company
Infectious Diseases 372 will check if your problem is pre-existing
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 374 and will not cover you if it is undeclared.
Environmental Hazards 375 You may require extra cover for adventure
Travelling With Children 377 activities such as rock climbing. If your
Women’s Health 377 health insurance doesn’t cover you for
Traditional Medicine 377 medical expenses abroad, consider getting
H E A LT H
extra insurance. If you’re uninsured, emer-
Health issues and the quality of medical gency evacuation is expensive – bills of over
facilities vary enormously depending on US$100,000 are not uncommon.
where and how you travel in Myanmar. Find out in advance if your insurance
Many of the major cities are now very well plan will make payments directly to pro-
developed, although travel to rural areas viders or reimburse you later for overseas
can expose you to a variety of health risks health expenditures. (In many countries
and inadequate medical care. doctors will expect payment in cash.) Some
Travellers tend to worry about contracting policies offer lower and higher medical-
infectious diseases when in the tropics, but expense options; the higher ones are
infections are a rare cause of serious illness chiefly for countries that have extremely
or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical high medical costs, such as the USA. You
conditions such as heart disease, and acci- may prefer a policy that pays doctors or
dental injury (especially traffic accidents), hospitals directly rather than you having
account for most life-threatening problems.
Becoming ill in some way, however, is rela-
tively common. Fortunately, most common Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the Health chapter. She
illnesses can either be prevented with some is a general practitioner and travel medicine
common-sense behaviour or be treated easily specialist who works at the Ciwec Clinic in
with a well-stocked traveller’s medical kit. Kathmandu, Nepal. She is also a medical
The following advice is a general guide advisor to the Travel Doctor New Zealand
only and does not replace the advice of a clinics. Trish teaches travel medicine through
doctor trained in travel medicine. the University of Otago, and is interested in
underwater and high-altitude medicine, and
BEFORE YOU GO in the impact of tourism on host countries. She

has travelled extensively through Southeast
and East Asia, and particularly loves high-
Pack medications in their original, clearly altitude trekking in the Himalaya.
labelled, containers. A signed and dated
letter from your physician describing your
370 B E F O R E Y O U G O • • R e c o m m e n d e d Va c c i n a t i o n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) 371
to pay on the spot and claim later. If you Most vaccines don’t produce immunity diarrhoea, such as Azithromycin; and for
have to claim later, make sure you keep all until at least two weeks after they’re given, giardiasis or amoebic dysentery, such as HEALTH ADVISORIES
documentation. Some policies ask you to so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before Tinidazole It’s usually a good idea to consult your
call back (reverse charges) to a centre in departure. Ask your doctor for an Interna- Antihistamine – there are many options, eg government’s travel-health website before
your home country, where an immediate tional Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine departure, if one is available:
assessment of your problem is made. known as the yellow booklet), which will for night Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/)
list all the vaccinations you’ve received. Antiseptic, eg Betadine Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca)
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg New Zealand (www.mfat.govt.nz/travel)
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your MEDICAL CHECKLIST Buscopa UK (www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/)
best source of information; they stock all Recommended items for a personal medi- Contraceptive method USA (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
available vaccines and will be able to give cal kit: Decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine
specific recommendations for you and your Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole DEET-based insect repellent
trip. The doctors will take into account fac- Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin Diarrhoea treatment – consider an oral FURTHER READING
tors such as past vaccination history, the Antibiotic for possible skin infections, eg rehydration solution (eg Gastrolyte), diar- Lonely Planet’s Healthy Travel – Asia &
length of your trip, activities you may be Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin rhoea ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and anti- India is a handy pocket size and is packed
undertaking and underlying medical condi- Antibiotics for diarrhoea, such as Nor- nausea medication (eg Prochlorperazine) with useful information including pretrip
tions, such as pregnancy. floxacin or Ciprofloxacin; for bacterial First-aid items such as scissors, Elasto- planning, emergency first aid, immunisa-
plasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but tion and disease information, and what to
not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, do if you get sick on the road. Other rec-
REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS safety pins, and tweezers ommended references include Traveller’s
The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory Health, by Dr Richard Dawood, and Travel-
only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior Indigestion tablets, such as Quick Eze or ling Well, by Dr Deborah Mills – check out
to entering Myanmar. If you are travelling to Myanmar from Africa or South America you should Mylanta the website (www.travellingwell.com.au).
check to see if you require proof of vaccination. Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or
The World Health Organization recommends the following vaccinations for all travellers to have a thyroid problem) to purify water
IN TRANSIT
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
Myanmar: Laxative, eg Coloxyl
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects Migraine medicine – sufferer should take
include sore arm and fever. their personal medicine DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT )
Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another Paracetamol Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when
20 years’ protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people. Permethrin to impregnate clothing and blood clots form in the legs during plane
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is mosquito nets flights, chiefly because of prolonged immo-
also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg bility. The longer the flight, the greater
and sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people. 1% to 2% hydrocortisone the risk. Though most blood clots are re-
Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a Sunscreen and hat absorbed uneventfully, some may break off
rash and flulike illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster. Throat lozenges and travel through the blood vessels to the
Polio In 2002 no countries in Southeast Asia reported cases of polio. Only one booster required as an adult for Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat- lungs, where they may cause life-threatening
lifetime protection. Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during pregnancy. ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflu- complications.
Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers around can tablet The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the Ural or an equivalent if prone to urine pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but
injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur. infections not always on just one side. When a blood
Varicella If you haven’t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor. clot travels to the lungs, it may cause chest
INTERNET RESOURCES pain and difficulty in breathing. Travellers
These immunisations are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) or those There is a wealth of travel-health advice on with any of these symptoms should imme-
at special risk, for example due to spending a lot of time in rural areas: the Internet. For more information, Lonely diately seek medical attention.
Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. Booster recommended after two years. Sore arm and headache Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to To prevent the development of DVT on
are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days start. The World Health Organization (WHO; www long flights you should walk about the cab-
after any of the three doses. .who.int/ith/) publishes a fine book, International in, perform isometric compressions of the
Meningitis A single injection. There are two types of vaccination: the quadrivalent vaccine gives two to three Travel & Health, which is revised annually leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles
years’ protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years’ protection. Recommended for long-term and is available online at no cost. Another while sitting), drink plenty of fluids, and
backpackers aged under 25. website of interest is MD Travel Health (www avoid alcohol and tobacco.
Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years’ protection. Side effects are rare – .mdtravelhealth.com), which provides complete
occasionally headache and sore arm. travel-health recommendations for every JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
Tuberculosis A complex issue. Adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before country and is updated daily. The Centers for Jet lag is common when crossing more than
and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine given in a lifetime. Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) five time zones; it results in insomnia, fa-
website also has good general information. tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
372 I N MYA N MA R • • Av a i l a b i l i t y o f H e a l t h C a re & C o s t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 373
try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) measures at all times. Symptoms include aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. It Choose accommodation with screens and
and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek high fever, severe headache and body ache can be very severe in people over the age of fans (if not air-con)
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust (dengue was previously known as ‘break- 65 or in those with underlying medicalcon- Impregnate clothing with Permethrin in
your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon bone fever’). Some people develop a rash and ditions such as heart disease or diabetes – high-risk areas
as possible. experience diarrhoea. There is no specific vaccination is recommended for these Wear long sleeves and trousers in light
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate treatment, just rest and paracetamol – do individuals. There is no specific treatment, colours
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert or not take aspirin, as it increases the likeli- just rest and paracetamol. Use mosquito coils
Bonine) are usually a traveller’s first choice hood of haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be Spray your room with insect repellent
for treating motion sickness. The main side diagnosed and monitored. Japanese B Encephalitis before going out for your evening meal
effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is While this is a rare disease in travellers, at
ginger, which works like a charm for some Filariasis least 50,000 locals are infected each year. Some available medications:
people. A mosquito-borne disease that is very com- This viral disease is transmitted by mosqui- Artesunate Derivatives of Artesunate are not suitable as
mon in the local population, yet very rare toes. Most cases occur in rural areas, and a preventive medication. They are useful treatments under
in travellers. Mosquito-avoidance measures vaccination is recommended for travellers medical supervision.
IN MYANMAR are the best way to prevent this disease. spending more than one month outside cit-
ies. There is no treatment, and a third of
Chloroquine and Paludrine The effectiveness of this
combination is now limited in most of Southeast Asia.
AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH Hepatitis A infected people will die while another third Common side effects include nausea (40% of people) and
CARE & COSTS This food- and waterborne virus infects will suffer permanent brain damage. mouth ulcers. Generally not recommended.
Local medical care is dismal, and local hos- the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin Doxycycline This daily tablet is a broad-spectrum
pitals should only be used out of despera- and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no Malaria antibiotic that has the added benefit of helping to prevent
tion. Contact your embassy for advice, as specific treatment for hepatitis A; you just For such a serious and potentially deadly a variety of tropical diseases, including leptospirosis,
staff will usually direct you to the best alter- need to allow time for the liver to heal. All disease, there is an enormous amount of tick-borne disease, typhus and meliodosis. The potential
natives. Be aware that getting Western-style travellers to Myanmar should be vaccinated misinformation concerning malaria and side effects include photosensitivity (a tendency to
health care may not come cheap. against hepatitis A. malaria medication. You must get expert sunburn), thrush in women, indigestion, heartburn, nausea
Self-treatment may be appropriate if your advice as to whether the destinations you and interference with the contraceptive pill. More serious
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
problem is minor (eg traveller’s diarrhoea), Hepatitis B are going to will put you at risk. For most side effects include ulceration of the oesophagus – you can
you are carrying the appropriate medica- The only sexually transmitted disease that rural areas, however, the risk of contracting help prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and
tion and you cannot attend a recommended can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis the disease far outweighs the risk of any a large glass of water, and never lying down within half
clinic in Yangon or Mandalay. If you think B is spread by body fluids, including sexual tablet side effects. Remember that malaria an hour of taking it. Must be taken for four weeks after
you may have a serious disease, especially contact. In some parts of this region up to can be fatal. Before you travel, seek medical leaving the risk area.
malaria, do not waste time – travel to the 20% of the population are carriers of hepa- advice on the right medication and dosage Lariam (Mefloquine) Lariam has received much bad
nearest quality facility to receive attention. titis B, and usually are unaware of this. The for you. press, some of it justified, some not. This weekly tablet
It is always better to be assessed by a doctor long-term consequences can include liver Malaria is caused by a parasite transmit- suits many people. Serious side effects are rare but include
than to rely on self-treatment. cancer and cirrhosis. ted by the bite of an infected mosquito. depression, anxiety, psychosis and having fits. Anyone with
Buying medication over the counter is not The most important symptom of malaria a history of depression, anxiety, other psychological
recommended in Myanmar, as fake medica- Hepatitis E is fever, but general symptoms such as disorder, or epilepsy should not take Lariam. It is
tions and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs Hepatitis E is transmitted through contami- headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may considered safe in the second and third trimesters of
are common. nated food and water and has similar symp- also occur. Diagnosis can only be made by pregnancy. It is around 90% effective in most parts of
toms to hepatitis A, but is far less common. taking a blood sample. Southeast Asia. Tablets must be taken for four weeks after
INFECTIOUS DISEASES It is a severe problem in pregnant women Two strategies should be combined to leaving the risk area.
Cutaneous Larva Migrans and can result in the death of both mother prevent malaria – mosquito avoidance and Malarone This new drug is a combination of Atovaquone
This disease is caused by dog hookworm. and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and antimalarial medications. Most people who and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most
The rash starts as a small lump, then slowly prevention is by following safe eating and catch malaria are taking inadequate or no commonly nausea and headache. It is the best tablet for
spreads in a linear fashion. It is intensely drinking guidelines. antimalarial medication. scuba divers and for those on short trips to high-risk areas.
itchy, especially at night. It is easily treated Travellers are advised to prevent mos- It must be taken for one week after leaving the risk area.
with medications and should not be cut out HIV quito bites by taking these steps:
or frozen. Myanmar is among the list of countries in Use an insect repellent containing DEET A final option is to take no preventive med-
Asia with the highest rate of HIV infec- on exposed skin. Wash this off at night, as ication but to have a supply of emergency
Dengue tion – and the problem is increasing. Het- long as you are sleeping under a mosquito medication should you develop the symp-
This mosquito-borne disease is becomingly erosexual sex is now the main method of net. Natural repellents such as citronella toms of malaria. This is less than ideal, and
increasingly problematic throughout My- transmission. can be effective but must be applied more you’ll need to get to a good medical facility
anmar. As there is no vaccine available it frequently than products containing within 24 hours of developing a fever. If you
can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito Influenza DEET. choose this option the most effective and
bites. The mosquito that carries dengue Present year round in the tropics, influenza Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated safest treatment is Malarone (four tablets
bites day and night, so use insect-avoidance (flu) symptoms include high fever, muscle with Permethrin once daily for three days). Other options
374 I N MYA N MA R • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 375
include Mefloquine and quinine, but the significant contact with the local popula- a long bus ride. Don’t take Loperamide if country – there are certain medical con-
side effects of these drugs at treatment tion should take precautions. Vaccination you have a fever, or blood in your stools. ditions that are incompatible with diving,
doses make them less desirable. Fansidar is is usually only given to children under the Seek medical attention quickly if you do not and economic considerations may override
no longer recommended. age of five, but pre- and post-travel TB test- respond to an appropriate antibiotic. health considerations for some dive opera-
ing is recommended for adults at risk. The tors that operate in Myanmar.
Measles main symptoms are fever, cough, weight Amoebic Dysentery
This highly contagious bacterial infection loss, night sweats and tiredness. Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers Food
is spread by coughing and sneezing. Most but is often misdiagnosed by poor-quality Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor
people born before 1966 are immune, as Typhoid labs in Southeast Asia. Symptoms are simi- for contracting traveller’s diarrhoea. Ways to
they had the disease in childhood. Measles This serious bacterial infection is spread via lar to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody avoid it include eating only freshly cooked
starts with a high fever and rash and can food and water. It gives a high and slowly diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You food and avoiding shellfish and food that has
be complicated by pneumonia and brain progressive fever and a headache, and may should always seek reliable medical care if been sitting around in buffets. Peel all fruit,
disease. There is no specific treatment. be accompanied by a dry cough and stom- you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treat- cook vegetables and soak salads in iodine
ach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and ment involves two drugs: Tinidazole or water for at least 20 minutes. Eat in busy res-
Rabies treated with antibiotics. Vaccination is rec- Metroniadzole to kill the parasite in your taurants with a high turnover of customers.
This uniformly fatal disease is spread by ommended for all travellers spending more gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts.
the bite or lick of an infected animal – most than a week in Myanmar and other parts of If left untreated complications such as liver Heatstroke
commonly a dog or monkey. You should Southeast Asia. Be aware that vaccination or gut abscesses can occur. Many parts of Myanmar are hot and humid
seek medical advice immediately after any is not 100% effective, so you must still be throughout the year. For most people it
animal bite and commence postexposure careful with what you eat and drink. Giardiasis takes at least two weeks to adapt to the hot
treatment. Having pretravel vaccination Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively climate. Swelling of the feet and ankles is
means the postbite treatment is greatly sim- Typhus common in travellers. Symptoms include common, as are muscle cramps caused by
plified. If an animal bites you, gently wash Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and in- excessive sweating. Prevent these by avoid-
the wound with soap and water, and apply flea, whereas scrub typhus is spread via a termittent diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often ing dehydration and excessive activity in
iodine-based antiseptic. If you are not pre- mite. These diseases are rare in travellers. attributed solely to giardiasis, but work in the heat. Take it easy when you first arrive.
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
vaccinated you will need to receive rabies Symptoms include fever, muscle pains and Nepal has shown that they are not specific Don’t eat salt tablets (they aggravate the
immunoglobulin as soon as possible. a rash. You can avoid these diseases by fol- to this infection. The parasite will eventually gut), but drinking rehydration solution or
lowing general insect-avoidance measures. go away if left untreated, but this can take eating salty food helps. Treat cramps by
STDs Doxycycline will also prevent them. months. The treatment of choice is Tinida- stopping activity, resting, rehydrating with
Sexually transmitted diseases most common zole, with Metronidazole being a second- double-strength rehydration solution and
in Myanmar include herpes, warts, syphilis, TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA line option. gently stretching.
gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying Traveller’s diarrhoea is the most common Dehydration is the main contributor to
these diseases often have no signs of infec- problem affecting travellers – between 30% ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS heat exhaustion. Symptoms can include feel-
tion. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and 50% of people will suffer from it within Air Pollution ing weak, headache, irritability, nausea or
and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If two weeks of starting their trip. In over 80% Air pollution, particularly vehicle pollution,
after a sexual encounter you develop any of cases, traveller’s diarrhoea is caused by is an increasing problem. If you have severe
rash, lumps, discharge or pain when passing a bacterium (there are numerous potential respiratory problems speak with your doc- DRINKING WATER
urine, seek immediate medical attention. If culprits), and therefore responds promptly to tor before travelling to any heavily polluted Never drink tap water
sexually active during your travels, have an treatment with antibiotics. Treatment with urban centres. This pollution also causes
Bottled water is generally safe – check
STD check on your return home. antibiotics will depend on your situation – minor respiratory problems such as sinus-
the seal is intact at purchase
how sick you are, how quickly you need to itis, dry throat and irritated eyes. If troubled
Strongyloides get better, where you are etc. by the pollution, leave the city for a few Avoid ice
This parasite, also transmitted by skin contact Diarrhoea is defined as the passage of days and get some fresh air. Avoid fresh juices – they may have been
with soil, is common but rarely affects travel- more than three watery bowel movements watered down
lers. It is characterised by an unusual skin within a 24-hour perod, plus at least one Diving Boiling water is the most efficient
rash called larva currens – a linear rash on other symptom such as nausea, vomiting, Divers and surfers should seek specialised
method of purifying it
the trunk that comes and goes. Most people fever, cramps or feeling generally unwell. advice before they travel to ensure their
don’t have other symptoms until their im- Treatment consists of staying well hy- medical kit contains treatment for coral The best chemical purifier is iodine; it
mune system becomes severely suppressed, drated; rehydration solutions such as Gas- cuts and tropical ear infections, as well as should not be used by pregnant women
when the parasite can cause a massive infec- trolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such the standard problems. Divers should en- or those with thyroid problems
tion. It can be treated with medications. as Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithro- sure their insurance covers them for de- Water filters should also filter out
mycin will kill the bacteria quickly. compression illness – get specialised dive viruses; ensure your filter has a chemical
Tuberculosis Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ and doesn’t insurance through an organisation such as barrier such as iodine and a small pore
While rare in travellers, medical and aid get to the cause of the problem. It can be Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.danseap.org). Have size, eg less than four microns
workers and long-term travellers who have helpful, for example if you have to go on a dive medical before you leave your home
376 I N MYA N MA R • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R • • T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n 377
vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse If you have had a tick bite and experience Cuts and scratches easily become infected tween 16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of
and a normal or slightly elevated body tem- symptoms such as a rash at the site of the in humid climates. Take meticulous care pregnancy-related problems is at its lowest
perature. Treatment involves getting the bite or elsewhere, fever or muscle aches you of any cuts and scratches to prevent com- and pregnant women generally feel at their
person out of the heat and/or sun, fanning should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents plications such as abscesses. Immediately best. During the first trimester there is a risk
them and applying cool, wet cloths to their tickborne diseases. wash all wounds in clean water and apply of miscarriage and in the third trimester
skin, laying them flat with their legs raised, Leeches are found in humid rainforest antiseptic. If you develop signs of infection complications such as premature labour and
and rehydrating them with water contain- areas. They do not transmit any disease, (increasing pain and redness) see a doctor. high blood pressure are possible. It’s wise
ing ¼ teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is but their bites are often intensely itchy for Divers and surfers should be particularly to travel with a companion. Always carry a
usually rapid, and it is common to feel weak weeks afterwards and can easily become in- careful with coral cuts as they easily become list of quality medical facilities available at
for some days afterwards. fected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to infected. your destination and ensure that you con-
Heatstroke is a serious medical emer- any leech bite to help prevent infection. tinue your standard antenatal care at these
gency. Symptoms come on suddenly and Bee and wasp stings mainly cause prob- Snakes facilities. Avoid rural travel in areas with
include weakness, nausea, a hot, dry body lems for people who are allergic to them. Myanmar is home to many species of both poor transportation and medical facilities.
with a body temperature of over 41°C, diz- Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy poisonous and harmless snakes. Assume all Most of all, ensure that your travel insur-
ziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg snakes are poisonous and never try to catch ance covers all pregnancy-related possibili-
and eventually collapse and loss of con- an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For one. Always wear boots and long pants if ties, including premature labour.
sciousness. Seek medical help and com- others pain is the main problem – apply ice walking in an area that may have snakes. Malaria is a high-risk disease in preg-
mence cooling by getting the person out of to the sting and take painkillers. First aid in the event of a snakebite involves nancy. WHO recommends that pregnant
the heat, removing their clothes, fanning Most jellyfish in Southeast Asian waters pressure immobilisation with an elastic women do not travel to areas with Chloro-
them and applying cool, wet cloths or ice are not dangerous, just irritating. First aid for bandage firmly wrapped around the affected quine-resistant malaria. None of the more
to their body, especially to the groin and jellyfish stings involves pouring vinegar onto limb, starting at the bite site and working up effective antimalarial drugs are completely
armpits. the affected area to neutralise the poison. towards the chest. The bandage should not safe in pregnancy.
Prickly heat is a common skin rash in Do not rub sand or water onto the stings. be so tight that the circulation is cut off, and Traveller’s diarrhoea can quickly lead to
the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped Take painkillers, and anyone who feels ill the fingers or toes should be kept free so the dehydration and result in inadequate blood
under the skin. The result is an itchy rash in any way after being stung should seek circulation can be checked. Immobilise the flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
of tiny lumps. Treat by moving out of the medical advice. Take local advice if there are limb with a splint and carry the victim to used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not
heat and into an air-con area for a few hours dangerous jellyfish around and keep out of medical attention. Do not use tourniquets recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin
and by having cool showers. Creams and the water. or try to suck the venom out. Antivenom is is considered safe.
ointments clog the skin, so they should be available for most species. In Yangon and Mandalay, supplies of san-
avoided. Locally bought prickly-heat pow- Parasites itary products are readily available. Birth-
der can be helpful. Numerous parasites are common in local Sunburn control options may be limited, so bring
Tropical fatigue is common in long-term populations; however, most of these are Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur adequate supplies of your own form of con-
expats based in the tropics. It’s rarely due rare in travellers. The two rules to follow rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen (at traception. Heat, humidity and antibiotics
to disease and is caused by the climate, if you wish to avoid parasitic infections least factor 30), making sure to reapply after can all contribute to thrush. Treatment is
inadequate mental rest, excessive alcohol are to wear shoes and to avoid eating raw a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed with antifungal creams and pessaries such
intake and the demands of daily work in a food, especially fish, pork and vegetables. hat and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying as Clotrimazole. A practical alternative is a
different culture. A number of parasites are transmitted via in the sun during the hottest part of the single tablet of Fluconazole (Diflucan). Uri-
the skin by walking barefoot; these include day (10am to 2pm). If you become sun- nary tract infections can be precipitated by
Insect Bites & Stings strongyloides, hookworm and cutaneous burnt stay out of the sun until you have dehydration or long bus journeys without
Bedbugs don’t carry disease, but their bites Larva migrans. recovered, apply cool compresses and take toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.
are very itchy. They live in the cracks of painkillers for the discomfort. A 1% hy-
furniture and walls and then migrate to the Skin Problems drocortisone cream applied twice daily is TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
bed at night to feed on you. You can treat Fungal rashes are common in humid cli- also helpful. Throughout Myanmar traditional medical
the itch with an antihistamine. mates. There are two common fungal rashes systems are widely practised. There is a big
Lice inhabit various parts of your body that affect travellers. The first occurs in TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN difference between these traditional healing
but most commonly your head and pubic moist areas that get less air such as the The main point to keep in mind is that chil- systems and ‘folk’ medicine. Folk remedies
area. Transmission is via close contact with groin, the armpits and between the toes. It dren get dehydrated very quickly, so they should be avoided, as they often involve
an infected person. Lice can be difficult to starts as a red patch that slowly spreads and will need to take liquids on a regular basis. rather dubious procedures with potential
treat, and you may need numerous applica- is usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping This becomes more critical if they are suf- complications. In comparison, traditional
tions of an antilice shampoo such as Per- the skin dry, avoiding chafing and using an fering from diarrhoea. healing systems such as traditional Chinese
methrin. Pubic lice are usually contracted antifungal cream such as Clotrimazole or medicine are well respected, and aspects of
from sexual contact. Lamisil. Tinea versicolor is also common – WOMEN’S HEALTH them are being increasingly used by West-
Ticks are contracted after walking in rural this fungus causes small, light-coloured Pregnant women should receive specialised ern medical practitioners.
areas. Ticks are commonly found behind patches, most commonly on the back, chest advice before travelling. The ideal time to All traditional Asian medical systems
the ears, on the belly and in the armpits. and shoulders. Consult a doctor. travel is during the second trimester (be- identify a vital life force, and see blockage
378 I N MYA N MA R • • T r a d i t i o n a l M e d i c i n e www.lonelyplanet.com
or imbalance as causing disease. Techniques medicines should be avoided for treating

such as herbal medicines, massage, and acu- serious acute infections such as malaria.
puncture are utilised to bring this vital force Be aware that ‘natural’ doesn’t always
back into balance or to maintain balance. mean ‘safe’, and there can be drug interac-
These therapies are best used for treating tions between herbal medicines and West-
chronic disease such as chronic fatigue, ern medicines. If you are using both systems
arthritis, irritable bowel syndrome and ensure that you inform both practitioners
some chronic skin conditions. Traditional what the other has prescribed.
H E A LT H
379
Language
Vowels
Burmese has many vowel sounds, which
CONTENTS occur in open, nasalised and stopped forms.
Nasalisation is produced by pronouncing
Pronunciation 379 vowels so that the air is released through
Tones 380 the nose, rather than the mouth; English
Transliteration 380 speakers can approximate this by putting a
Accommodation 380 weak ‘n’ at the end of such a syllable. In this
Conversation & Essentials 381 guide the nasalisation is indicated by n after
Directions 381 the vowel, eg ein (house).
Emergencies 382
Health 382 Non-nasalised
Language Difficulties 383 i as in ‘police’
Numbers 383 e as in ‘they’
Shopping & Services 383 eh as the first ‘e’ in ‘elephant’
Time & Dates 384 a as in ‘father’
Transport 384 aw as the British pronounce ‘law’
o as in ‘go’
u as in ‘chute’
Myanmar’s official language is Burmese, the
language of the Bamar majority. Speakers of Nasalised Stopped
Burmese and related dialects comprise in as in ‘sin’ iq as in ‘sit’
nearly 80% of the population. Making up ein as in ‘vein’eiq as in ‘late’
another 10% of the population are speakers eq as in ‘bet’
of Tai languages, which include the Shan, an as in ‘fun’ aq as in ‘mat’
Khün, Tai Lü and even a little-known group oun as in ‘bone’ ouq as in ‘boat’
of Lao living near Payathonzu – descendents un as in German uq as in ‘foot’
of refugees from Lao–Siamese wars in the Bund
19th century. Linguists estimate that there ain as in German aiq as in the English
are 107 languages spoken within Myanmar. mein ‘might’
Travellers will find basic English widely aun as in ‘brown’ auq as in ‘out’
spoken in urban areas and around popular
LANGUAGE
tourist sites such as Bagan, but venturing Consonants
further afield will require at least some Consonants only occur at the beginning of
basic Burmese. Learning a few words of the a syllable; there are no consonants that
language will make your travel in Bamar- occur after the vowel. The consonants b, d,
majority areas much more enjoyable and j, g, m, n, ng, s, sh, h, z, w, l and y are pro-
rewarding. Travellers who have spent some nounced as in English. The ‘w’ sound can
time in northern Thailand or Laos and occur on its own, or in combination with
learned some of the respective languages other consonants. Pronouncing the combin-
will be pleasantly surprised to find that ation ng at the beginning of a syllable can
many of these words are understood in Shan be tricky for Westerners; try saying ‘hang
State as well. on’, then leave off the ‘ha-’ to get an idea of
the sound. The following consonants and
PRONUNCIATION combinations may cause confusion:
Mastering Burmese pronunciation is a diz-
zying proposition for the average traveller. th – as in ‘thin’
While there are elements that don’t exist in dh – as the ‘th’ in ‘their’
English, with a little practice it’s not as ny – similar to the sound at the beginning
daunting as it at first seems. of the British ‘new’
380 L A N G UA G E • • T o n e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s 381
hm, hn, hny, hng, hl – made with a puff of air This process is known as ‘transliteration’. I will stay for two nights. I’m leaving now. (Goodbye)
just before the nasal or l sound In Burmese writing, the sounds c, c’, j are hnǎyeq tèh·meh thwà·ba·oùn·meh
ng – as the ‘ng’ in ‘hang’ represented by the letters for k, k’, g plus y NHc'rk't–'"my'> oâ;"p:a®u"my'>
or r, so anglicised forms of Burmese often
Aspirated Consonants represent them as ky, gy and so on. One How much is ...? A smile is often enough to express thanks in
The aspirated sounds are made with an au- example of this is the unit of currency, caq, ... beh·lauq·lèh? Myanmar, but it will still always be appreci-
dible puff of air after the consonant; in Eng- which is usually written ‘kyat’ in the Roman ated if you say ‘thank you’ in Burmese.
lish, the letters ‘p’, ‘t’ and ‘k’ are aspirated alphabet. Aspirated consonants (k’, s’, t’ and ... .y'el;k'lE>
when they occur at the beginning of a word, p’) may be transliterated with an ‘h’ either one night Thank you.
eg ‘pit’, ‘tab’ and ‘kit’. Unaspirated exam- before or after the consonant. A creaky tone tǎyeq tc'rk' cè·zù·bèh ekY"jU"pE>
ples of these sounds occur in words such as may be indicated by a final t, eg Hpakant (a two nights Thank you very much.
‘spin’, ‘stir’ and ‘skin’. town in Kachin State). hnǎyeq NHc'rk' cè·zù tin·ba·deh ekY"jU"t='p:ty'>
The unaspirated c and aspirated c’ are Various combinations of letters may be a single room It’s nothing. (You’re welcome)
similar to the ‘ch’ in ‘church’. Remember used to represent the same vowel sound: e tǎyauq·k’an tc'ey;k'xn'" keiq·sá mǎshí·ba·bù kicmrHip:.U">
that sh as in ‘ship’, s as in ‘sip’ and the aspi- and eh are both often transliterated as ‘ay’; a double room
rated s’ are three different sounds. ain may be represented as ‘aing’, auq as ‘auk’ hnǎyauq·k’an NHc'ey;k'xn'" What’s your name?
and so on. k’ǎmyá (m)/shín (f) na·meh beh·lo k’aw·dhǎlèh?
TONES There is no ‘r’ in Burmese but the sound This room is good. x='bY;"àrH='¾ n;m–' .y'lui exòolE>
Burmese tones seem very tricky, but are appears in some foreign words such as re- di ǎk’àn kaùn·deh dIaxn'" ek;='"ty'> My name is ...
essentially a matter of relative stress be- di-yo (radio). Sometimes it’s substituted clean cǎnáw (m)/cǎmá (f) ... ló k’aw·ba·deh
tween adjoining syllables. There are three with a y. Similarly there is no ‘f’ or ‘v’ in thán·deh on'¾ty'
tones, plus two other possibilities. kâYn'et;'¾àkâYn'm ... lui¾ exòp:ty'>
Burmese; loan words containing these con- dirty
Creaky High Tone Don’t worry about the funny name! sonants often use p’ and b respectively. nyiq·paq·deh –c'pt'ty' I’m glad to meet you.
This is made with the voice tense, producing a high- In this guide, dots have been used to k’ǎmyà (m)/shin (f) néh twé·yá·da wùn·tha·ba·deh
pitched and relatively short, creaky sound. In the trans- fan (electric)
separate syllables (with the exception of the pan·ka pn'k; x='bY;"àrH='nE¾ etö¾rt; vm'"s;p:ty'>
literations it’s indicated by an acute accent above the
vowel, eg ká (dance). reduced syllable ǎ) to make it easier to de- noisy Yes.
Plain High Tone The pitch of the voice starts quite termine the divisions between syllables. s’u·nyan·deh zU–®ty' houq·kéh hut'kE¾>
high, then falls for a fairly long time, similar to the However, you’ll notice that native speakers pillow No. (for questions containing nouns)
pronunciation of words such as ‘squeal’, ‘car’ and ‘way’. don’t speak with such clear division be- gaùn·oùn ex:='"au®" mǎhouq·pa·bù mhut'p:.U">
It’s indicated by a grave accent above the vowel, for tween words or syllables.
example kà which, conveniently, is also the Burmese word CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS DIRECTIONS
for ‘car’. ACCOMMODATION Hello. (literally, ‘It’s a blessing’) Is this the way to ...?
Low Tone The voice is relaxed and stays at a low pitch Is there a ... near here? di·làn ... thwà·déh·làn·là?
for a fairly long time, without rising or falling in pitch. min·gǎla·ba mg¿¿l;p:>
... di·nà·hma shí·dhǎlà? dIlm'" ... oâ;"tE¾lm'"l;">
If a vowel is unaccented, it indicates that it carries a low ... dIn;"mH;rHiol;"> How are you? (Are you well?)
tone, eg ka (shield). k’ǎmyà (m)/shin (f) ne·kaùn·yéh·là? How do I get to ...?
LANGUAGE
hotel
LANGUAGE
Stopped Syllable This is a very short and high-pitched ... ko beh·lo thwà·yá· dhǎlèh?
ho·teh eh;'ty' x='bY;"àrH=' enek;='"rE ¾l;">
syllable, cut off at the end by a sharp catch in the voice ... kui .y'luioâ;"rolEE>
(a glottal stop); it’s similar to the ‘non-sound’ in the guesthouse I’m well.
tèh·k’o·gàn t–'"xuixn'" ne·kaùn·ba·deh enek;='"p:ty'> Can I walk there?
middle of the exclamation, ‘oh-oh’, or the Cockney làn·shauq·yin yá·mǎlà?
pronunciation of ‘t’ in a word like ‘bottle’. It’s indicated Have you eaten?
by a ‘q’ after the vowel, eg kaq (join). Be aware that the Can foreigners stay here? t’ǎmìn sà·pì·bi·là? qm='"c;"¨pI"¨pIl;"> lm'"elY;k'r=' rml;">
‘q’ isn’t pronounced. nain·ngan·gyà·thà di·hma tèh·ló yá·dhǎlà? I’ve eaten.
Reduced (Weak) Syllable This is a shortened syllable, Nui='=®¨x;"o;" dImH;t–'"lui¾rol;"> sà·pì·ba·bi c;"¨pI"p:¨pI> Is it nearby?
usually the first of a two-syllable word, which is said Where are you going? di·nà·hma·là? dIn;"mH;l;">
without stress, like the ‘a’ in ‘ago’ in English. Only the May I see the room? Is it far?
beh thwà·mǎló·lèh? .y'oâ;"mliu¾lE>
vowel ‘a’ (sometimes preceded by a consonant) occurs ǎk’àn cí·bayá·ze? wè·dhǎlà? ev"ol;">
in a reduced syllable; this is indicated by a small ‘v’-like axn'" äk–'¾p:rec left
To this, a general, non-specific reply is di-
symbol above the vowel, eg ǎlouq (work). Any syllable Is breakfast included in the price? beh·beq .y'.k'
except the last in a word can be reduced. nà-lè-bèh, which means literally, ‘just around right
ǎk’àn·k’á·dèh·hma mǎneq·sa pa·dhǎlà? here’. However, you could say: nya·beq –;.k'
axn'"xqEmH; mnk'c; p:ol;">
TRANSLITERATION straight (ahead)
The system used in this language guide is Can I pay in kyat? I’m going back to my hotel. téh·déh t–'¾t–'¾
just one of many ways that Burmese script caq·néh pè·ló yá·là? ho·teh·go pyan·táw·meh very far away
can be rendered into the Roman alphabet. kYp'nE¾ep"lui¾rl;"> hiuty'kui ¨pn'et;¾my'> theiq wè·deh oip'ev"ty'>
382 L A N G UA G E • • E m e r g e n c i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s 383
not so far away I feel faint. 9 9 kò

theiq mǎwè·bù oip'mev".U"> EMERGENCIES mù·lèh·deh 10 10 (tǎ)s’eh
north Help! mU"lEEty'> 11 11 s’éh·tiq
myauq·p’eq e¨m;k'.k' keh·ba! ky'p:> 12 12 s’éh·hniq
south I’m ill. asthma 20 20 hnǎs’eh
taun·beq et;='.k' ne·mǎkàun·bù enmek;='".U"> (pàn·na·)yin·caq pn'"n;r='kYp' 35 35 thòun·zéh·ngà
east I’m lost. have diarrhoea
vm'"elY;ty'à 100 100 tǎya
ǎshé·beq aerH ¾.k' làn pyauq·ne·deh lm'"epY;k'enty'> wùn·shàw·deh/
wùn·thwà·ne·deh vm'"oâ;"enty' 1000 1000 (tǎ)t’aun
west Thief!
ǎnauq·p’eq aen;k'.k' thǎk’ò! oUxui"> have a fever 10,000 10000 (tǎ)thàun
I’ve been robbed. p’yà·deh fY;"ty' 100,000 100000 (tǎ)thèin
ǎk’ò·k’an·yá·deh axui"x®rty''> have a headache 1,000,000 1000000 (tǎ)thàn
SIGNS
Go away! gàun kaiq·ne·deh ex:='"kuik'enty'
av=' Entrance thwà·zàn! oâ;"cm'"> have a stomachache (One hundred thousand can often also be
aqâk' Exit Call a doctor! baiq na·deh buik'n;ty' called one lakh.)
s’ǎya·wun·go k’aw·pè·ba! aspirin
v='xâ=¾'mrHi No Entry eq·sǎpǎrin ak'cpr=' SHOPPING & SERVICES
zr;vn'kui exòep"p:>
ty'lIfun'" Telephone Call an ambulance!
bandage (for sprain) Where is the ...?
paq·tì pt'tI" ... beh·hma·lèh?
ez"lip' mes;k'r No Smoking lu·na·din·gà k’aw·pè·ba!
lUn;t='k;"exòep"p:> ... .y'mH;lEE>
amYiŸ"smI"mY;" mv='r Women Forbidden LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES bank
/:t'pu® mruik'r Do you understand?
No Photographs ban·daiq .,'tuik'
track/trail làn·jaùn lm'"eäk;='" nà·leh·dhǎlà? n;"l–'ol;">
t;"¨mc'ny'e¨m Prohibited Area bookshop
I understand.
village ywa râ; n;"l–'p:ty'> sa·ouq·s’ain c;aup'zui='
aim's;àeraim' Toilets nà·leh·ba·deh
chemist/pharmacy
m waterfall ye·dǎgun ert®xân' I don’t understand.
Women
nà·mǎleh·ba·bù n;"ml–'p:.U"> s’è·zain ez"zui='
kYC" Men market
HEALTH Please repeat that.
zè eZ"
Where is the ...? pyan·pyàw·ba·oùn ¨pn'e¨p;p:au®">
What ... is this? ... beh·hma·lèh? museum
da ba ... lèh? ... .y'mH;lEE> I can’t speak Burmese. pyá·daiq ¨ptuik'
d: .; ... lEE> bǎma·zǎgà lo mǎpyàw·daq·bù post office
chemist/pharmacy
sa·daiq c;tuik'
town s’è·zain ez"zui=' bm; ck;" me¨p;tt'.U">
myó Dmúui¾ shop
doctor I speak English.
street s’ǎya·wun zr;vn' s’ain zui='
ìn·gǎleiq·zǎgà lo pyàw·daq·teh
làn lm'" hospital
ag¿lip'ck;" e¨p;tt'ty'>
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
bus s’è·youn ez"ru® I’d like to make a call.
baq·sǎkà .t'ck;" Can you speak English? p’oùn·s’eq·c’in·deh fu®"zk'xY='ty'>
Please call a doctor. k’ǎmyà (m)/shin (f) ìn·gǎleiq·zǎgà lo pyàw·daq·thǎlà? Can I send a fax?
In the Country s’ǎya·wun kaw·pè·ba x='bY;"àrH=' ag¿lp i c
' k;" e¨p;tt'ol;"> fax pó·ló yá·dhǎlà? fk'c'pui¾lui¾ rol;">
beach kàn·gye km'"e¨x zr;vn' exòep"p:> What do you call this in Burmese?
I want to change ...
I’m allergic to penicillin. da bǎma·lo beh·lo k’aw·dhǎlèh?
countryside tàw et; ... lèh·jin·ba·deh
cǎnaw (m)/cǎmá (f) pǎnǎsǎlin·néh mǎtéh·bù d: bm;lui .y'luiexòolEE>
field (irrigated) leh·gwìn ly'kâ='" ... lExY='p:ty'>
kâJn'et;'àkâYn'm p='nIcl='nE¾ mt–'¾.U">
hill taun/koùn et;='àkun'" I’m pregnant. NUMBERS dollars
baiq cì·ne·deh/ko·wun shí·deh 1 1 tiq/tǎ daw·la edòl;
island cùn kâJn'" pounds
buik'äkI"enty'àkuiy'vn'rHity'> 2 2 hniq/hnǎ
lake ain aui=' paun ep:='
It hurts here. 3 3 thòun
foreign currency
lake (small, artificial) kan kn' di·hma na·deh 4 4 lè nain·ngan·gyà ngwe Nui='=®¨x;"e=â
map mye·boun e¨mpu® dImH; n;ty'> 5 5 ngà money
I vomit often. 6 6 c’auq paiq·s’an puik'z®
river myiq ¨mc' k’ǎná·k’ǎná an·deh 7 7 k’ú·hniq/k’ú·hnǎ travellers cheques
sea pin·leh p='ly' x,x, an'ty'> 8 8 shiq k’ǎyì·c’eq·leq·hmaq xrI"xYk'lk'mHt'
384 L A N G UA G E • • Ti m e & D a t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s p o r t 385
How many kyat to a dollar? 10.15pm riverboat jetty Where should I get off?
tǎdawla beh·hnǎcaq·lèh? nyá s’eh·na·yi s’éh·ngà· –zy'n;rIzy'¾=:" thìn·bàw·zeiq oe.¿;zip' beh·hma s’ìn·yá·mǎlèh?
tc'edòl; .y'NHc'kYp'lE> mǎniq minc' .y'mH;z='"rmlEE>
When will the ... leave? Can I get there by ...?
Please give me smaller change.
hour ... beh·ǎc’ein t’weq·mǎlèh? ... néh thwà·ló yá·mǎlà?
ǎkywe lèh·pè·ba
na·yi n;rI ... .y'axYin'qâk'mlEE>
aeäkâ lEep"p: minute ... nE¾ oâ;"lui¾rml;">
bus Please go slowly.
mǎniq minc'
Where can I buy ...? baq·sǎkà .t'ck;" pyè·pyè thwà·ba
morning (6am to noon)
express train ¨f–'"¨f–'"oâ;"p:>
... beh·hma weh·yá·mǎlèh? mǎneq mnk'
ǎmyan·yǎt’à a¨mn'rq;"
... .y'mH;vy'rmlEE> midday (noon to 3pm)
local train Please wait for me.
né·leh en¾l–' cǎnaw (m)/cǎmá (f) go saún·ne·ba
Do you have ... ?
afternoon/evening (3pm to 7pm) law·keh·yǎt’à el;'ky'rq;"
... shí·là plane kâYn'et;'àkâYn'mkuiec;='¾enp:>
nyá·ne –en
... rHil;"> night (7pm to 6am) le·yin·byan ely;„'pY® Stop here.
riverboat di·hma yaq·pa
How much is ...? nyá –
... beh·lauq·lèh? today thìn·bàw oe.¿; dImH; rp'p:>
dIen¾ train What time does the boat leave?
... .y'el;k'lE> di·né
mì·yǎt’à mI"rq;"
tomorrow thìn·bàw beh·ǎc’ein t’weq·mǎlèh?
matches
mǎneq·p’yan mnk'¨fn' oe.¿; .y'axYin'qâk'mlEE>
mì·jiq mI"¨xc' I’d like ...
day after tomorrow Can I get on board now?
shampoo cǎnaw (m)/cǎmá (f) ... lo·jin·ba·deh
dhǎbeq·k’a o.k'x:
gaùn·shaw·ye ex:='"elHY;'r–' next week kâYn'et;'àkâYn'm ... luixY='p:ty'>
ǎk’ú teq·ló yá·dhǎlà?
soap nauq ǎpaq en;k' apt' axu tk'lui¾rol;">
one ticket
s’aq·pya zp'¨p; bicycle
yesterday leq·hmaq·dǎzaun lk'mHt'tc'ec;=' seq·beìn ck'.I"
toothbrush mǎné·gá men¾k two tickets
dhǎbuq·tan oâ;"pât't® 4WD/’jeep’
leq·hmaq hnǎsaun lk'mHt'NHc'ec;=' jiq·kà gYc'k;"
toothpaste Sunday
oâ;"tuik'ez" motorcycle
thwà·taiq·s’è tǎnìn·gǎnwe·né tng¿eNâen¾ Where does this bus go?
toilet paper mo·ta s’ain·keh em;'et;'zui='ky'
Monday di baq·sǎkà beh·go thwà·dhǎlèh?
aim'o;ou®"ckð† taxi
ein·dha·thoùn·seq·ku tǎnìn·la·né tnl¿;en¾
dI.t'ck;" .y'kuioâ;"olEE> ǎhngà·kà a=H:"k;"
Tuesday
Do you have a cheaper one? in·ga·né ag¿ :en¾
da·t’eq zè po·pàw·da shí·dhǎlà? Wednesday
d:qk' eZ"piuep:t; rHiol;"> bouq·dǎhù·né budÖhU"en¾
Thursday
LANGUAGE
OK (literally, ‘good’)
LANGUAGE
ca·dhǎbǎdè·né äk;opet"en¾
kàun·ba·bi ek;='"p:¨pI>
Friday
expensive thauq·ca·né eo;äk;en¾
zè·cì·deh eZ"äkI"ty' Saturday
cheap sǎne·né cenen¾
zè·pàw·deh eZ"ep:ty'
TRANSPORT
TIME & DATES Where is the ...?
What time is it? ... beh·hma·lèh?
beh·ǎc’ein shí·bi·lèh? .y'axYin'rHi¨pIlE> ... .y'mH;lEE>
At what time? airport
beh·ǎc’ein·hma·lèh? .y'axYin'mH;lEE> le·zeiq elzip'
7am railway carriage
mǎneq k’ú·hnǎna·yi mnk' xuNHc'n;rI mì·yǎt’à·dwèh mI"rq;"tâE
1pm train station
né·leh tǎna·yi en¾l–' tc'n;rI bu·da·youn .Ut;r®u Also available from Lonely Planet:
4.30pm bus station Burmese Phrasebook
nyá·ne lè·na·yi·gwèh –en el"n;rIxâE baq·sǎkà·geiq .t'ck;"git'
386 G L O S S A R Y 387
hsingaung – head elephant man, above an u-zi mudra – hand position; used to describe the various hand
Glossary htan – (tan) sugar palm

hti – umbrellalike decorated pinnacle of a stupa
htwa – half a taung
positions used by Buddha images, eg abhaya mudra (the
gesture of fearlessness)
Myanma let-hwei – Myanmar kickboxing
See p81 for some useful words and phrases cheroots – Myanmar cigars; ranging from slim to massive, myit – river
dealing with food and dining. See the Lan- but very mild as they contain only a small amount of in – lake; eg Inle means little lake myo – town; hence Maymyo (after Colonel May), Allanmyo
guage chapter (p379) for other useful words tobacco mixed with other leaves, roots and herbs (Major Allen) or even Bernardmyo
and phrases. Chindits – the ‘behind enemy lines’ Allied forces who Jataka – stories of the Buddha’s past lives, a common myothit – ‘new town’, usually a planned new suburb
harried the Japanese during WWII theme for temple paintings and reliefs built since the 1960s
ABBREVIATIONS chinlon – extremely popular Myanmar sport in which a
naga – multiheaded dragon-serpent from mythology,
AM – Air Mandalay circle of up to six players attempts to keep a rattan ball kalaga – embroidered tapestries
kamma – Pali word for the law of cause and effect; called often seen sheltering or protecting the Buddha
BCP – Burmese Communist Party in the air with any part of the body except the arms and
nat – spirit being with the power to either protect or
FEC – Foreign Exchange Certificate hands karma in Sanskrit
harm humans
IWT – Inland Water Transport chinthe – half-lion, half-dragon guardian deity kammahtan – meditation; a kammahtan kyaung is a
nat-gadaw – spirit medium (literally ‘spirit bride’),
KIA – Kachin Independence Army meditation monastery
embraces a wide variety of nat
KNLA – Karen National Liberation Army dah – long-bladed knife, part of the traditional dress of kammawa – lacquered scriptures nat pwe – dance performance designed to entice a nat to
KNU – Karen National Union the Shan and several hill tribes kan – (gan) beach; can also mean a tank or reservoir possess a nat-gadaw
MA – Myanma Airways deva – Pali-Sanskrit word for celestial beings karaweik – (Pali: karavika) a mythical bird with a ngwe – silver
MAI – Myanmar Airways International dhamma – Pali word for the Buddhist teachings; called beautiful song; also the royal barge on Inle Lake nibbana – nirvana or enlightenment, the cessation of
MFSL – Myanma Five Star Line dharma in Sanskrit keinnayi – (Pali: kinnari) a mythical creature that is suffering, the end of rebirth; the ultimate goal of Buddhist
MHT – Ministry of Hotels & Tourism dobat – rural musical instrument; a small, two-faced human from the waist up, bird from the waist down; the practice
MNLF – Mon National Liberation Front drum worn around the neck female is called keinnaya (Pali: kinnara)
MTT – Myanmar Travels & Tours kon – (gon) hill o-zi – a long-bodied, goblet-shaped, one-faced drum
NLD – National League for Democracy eingyi – traditional long-sleeved shirt worn by Myanmar men kunya – betel-nut chew used for accompanying folk music in the country
NMSP – New Mon State Party kutho – merit, what you acquire through doing good; from
Slorc – State Law & Order Restoration Council flat – covered pontoon used to carry cargo on the river; the Pali kusala pagoda – generic English term for zedi or stupas as well
SPDC – State Peace & Development Council often up to 30m long kyaik – Mon word for paya as temples; see also paya
SSA – Shan State Army furlong – obsolete British unit of distance still used in kyauk – rock pahso – longyi for men
UWSA – United Wa State Army Myanmar; one-eighth of a mile kyaung – (gyaung) Myanmar Buddhist monastery; pahto – Burmese word for temple, shrine or other
YA – Yangon Airways pronounced chown religious structure with a hollow interior
gaiq – yard (measurement) kye waing – circle of gongs used in a Myanmar orchestra Pali – language in which original Buddhist texts were
WORDS gaung baung – formal, turbanlike hat made of silk over kyi – (gyi) big; eg Taunggyi means big mountain recorded; the ‘Latin’ of Theravada Buddhism
acheiq longyi – longyi woven with intricate patterns and a wicker framework, for men kyun – (gyun) island pa-lwe – bamboo flute
worn on ceremonial occasions gu – cave temple paq-ma – Myanmar bass drum
a-le – opium weights gyo-daing – ‘planetary post’, a small shrine near the làn – road or street parabaik – folding Buddhist palm-leaf manuscripts
a-nyeint pwe – traditional variety of pwe base of a zedi containing a Buddha image to which parinibbana – literally, final nibbana; the Buddha’s
lei-myet-hna – four-sided Buddha sculpture
worshippers make offerings according to the day of the passing away
lin gwin – cymbals in a Myanmar orchestra
bama hsan-jin – Burmeseness; also myanma hsan-jin week they were born; there are usually eight posts, one pattala – bamboo xylophone used in the Myanmar
Bamar – Burman ethnic group for each day of the Myanmar week (Wednesday is divided
Lokanat – Avalokitesvara, a Mahayana Bodhisattva
orchestra
(Buddha-to-be) and guardian spirit of the world
bedin-saya – astrologer into two days) paya – a generic Burmese term meaning holy one; applied
betel – the nut of the areca palm, which is chewed as a longyi – the Myanmar unisex sarong-style lower garment,
to Buddha figures, zedi and other religious monuments
mild intoxicant throughout Asia haw – Shan word for ‘palace’, a reference to the large sensible wear in a tropical climate; unlike men in most
pe-sa – palm-leaf manuscripts
Bodhi Tree – the sacred banyan tree under which the mansions used by the hereditary Shan sao pha other Southeast Asian countries, few Myanmar men have pin – (bin) banyan tree
Buddha gained enlightenment; also ‘bo tree’ hgnet – swallow-tailed boat taken to Western trousers pi ze – traditional tattooing, believed to make the wearer
Brahman – pertaining to Brahma or to early Hindu hintha – mythical, swanlike bird; hamsa in Pali-Sanskrit invulnerable to sword or gun
religion (not to be confused with ‘brahmin’, a Hindu hka – stream or river in Kachin State Mahayana – literally, Great Vehicle; the school of Buddhism pwe – generic Burmese word for festival, feast, celebration
caste) hneh – a wind instrument like an oboe; part of the that thrived in north Asian countries like Japan and China, or ceremony; also refers to public performances of song
Buddha footprints – large, flat, stylised sculptures that Myanmar orchestra and also enjoyed popularity for a time in ancient Southeast and dance in Myanmar, often all-night (and all-day) affairs
represent the Buddha’s feet, distinguished by 108 identify- hpongyi – Buddhist monk Asian countries; also called the Northern School of Buddhism pyatthat – wooden, multiroofed pavilion, usually
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
ing marks; footprint shrines mark places where the Buddha hpongyi-byan – cremation ceremony for an important makara – mythical sea serpent turretlike on palace walls, as at Mandalay Palace
himself is reputed to have walked monk Manuthiha – a half-lion/half-human mythical creature; Pyithu Hluttaw – Peoples’ Congress or parliament, now
hpongyikyaung – monastery; see also kyaung visible around Shwedagon Paya defunct
cantonment – the part of a colonial town occupied by hsaing – traditional musical ensemble mara – the tempter, the Buddhist equivalent of Satan
the military, a carry-over from the British days hsaing waing – circle of drums used in a Myanmar orchestra maya ngeh – ‘lesser wife’, a man’s second wife ro-ro – ‘roll on, roll off’, a ferry that carries vehicles; see
chaung – (gyaung) stream or canal; often only seasonal hsinbyudaw – royal white elephant mi-gyaung – crocodile lute also zed craft
388 G L O S S A R Y
Sanskrit – ancient Indian language and source of many the Sutta (discourses of the Buddha) and Abhidhamma
words in the Burmese vocabulary, particularly those having (Buddhist philosophy)
to do with religion, art and government twin – (dwin) well, hole or mine
sao pha – ‘sky lord’, the hereditary chieftains of the Shan twin-zar – (literally, well-eater) owners and workers of
people small oil wells in the Barong Islands, near Sittwe
saung gauq – 13-stringed harp
sawbwa – Burmese corruption of the Shan word sao u-min – (ohn-min) cave, usually artificial and part of a temple
pha or ‘sky lord’, the hereditary chieftains of the Shan u-zi – elephant handler or mahout
people
saya – a teacher or shaman vihara – Pali-Sanskrit word for sanctuary or chapel for
sayadaw – ‘master teacher’, usually the chief abbot of a Buddha images
Buddhist monastery viss – Myanmar unit of weight, equal to 1.6kg
shinpyu – ceremonies conducted when young boys from votive tablet – inscribed offering tablet, usually with
seven to 20 years old enter a monastery for a short period images of the Buddha
of time, required of every young Buddhist male; girls have
their ears pierced in a similar ceremony wa – mouth or river or lake; Inwa means ‘mouth of the lake’
shwe – golden wa leq-hkouq – bamboo clapper, part of the Myanmar
sikhara – Indian-style, corncoblike temple finial, found orchestra
on many temples in the Bagan area
sima – see thein yagwin – small cymbals
soon – alms food offered to monks Yama pwe – Myanmar classical dancing based on Indian
stupa – see zedi epic the Ramayana
ye – water, liquid
t’ǎmìn zain – (htamin zain) rice shop yediya – the superstitious belief that fate can be averted
Tatmadaw – Myanmar’s armed forces by carrying out certain, sometimes contradictory, activities
taung, daung – mountain, eg Taunggyi means ‘big yodaya zat – Ayuthaya theatre, the style of theatre
mountain’; it can also mean a half-yard (measurement) brought into Myanmar with Thai captives after the fall of
taw – (daw) a common suffix, meaning sacred, holy or Ayuthaya in 1767
royal; it can also mean forest or plantation yoma – mountain range
tazaung – shrine building, usually found around zedi youq-the pwe – Myanmar marionette theatre
thabeiq – monk’s food bowl; also a traditional element ywa – village; a common suffix in place names such as
of stupa architecture Monywa
thanakha – yellow sandalwoodlike paste, worn by many
Myanmar women on their faces as a combination of skin zat pwe – Myanmar classical dance-drama based on
conditioner, sunblock and make-up Jataka stories
The Thirty – the ‘30 comrades’ of Bogyoke Aung San zawgyi – an alchemist who has successfully achieved
who joined the Japanese during WWII and eventually led immortality through the ingestion of special compounds
Burma (Myanmar) to independence made from base metals
thein – ordination hall; called sima in Pali zayat – an open-sided shelter or resthouse associated
Theravada – literally, the Word of the Elders; the school with a zedi
of Buddhism that has thrived in Sri Lanka and Southeast zed craft – large vehicle ferry
Asian countries such as Myanmar and Thailand; also called zedi – stupa, a traditional Buddhist religious monument
Southern Buddhism and Hinayana consisting of a solid hemispherical or gently tapering cylin-
thilashin – nun drical cone, and topped with a variety of metal and jewel
thoun bein – motorised three-wheeled passenger vehicles finials; zedi are often said to contain Buddha relics
Tripitaka – the ‘three baskets’; the classic Buddhist zei – (zay or zè) market
scriptures consisting of the Vinaya (monastic discipline), zeigyo – central market
GLOSSARY
395
Index
A Bagan Myothit 275-7, 307-8, 276 Bogyoke Aung San Museum 101
ABBREVIATIONS
Abeyadana Pahto 306 books 293 books, see also literature
ACT Australian
accommodation 330-2 Capital Central Plain 302-4, 5, 268-9 Bagan 293
Territory
avoiding government hotels 24 history 293-6 Buddhism 59
NSW New South Wales
activities 332-4, see also individual Myinkaba 275, 304-7, 5 environmental issues 72
NT Northern Territory
activities New Bagan 275-7, 307-8, 276 food 74, 75
Qld Queensland
itineraries 33, 33 North Plain 300-2 health 371
SA South Australia
air travel Nyaung U 269-73, 309-10, 270 history 28, 35, 37, 39, 40, 48, 286,
Tas Tasmania
airlines 354-5, 358 Old Bagan 273-5, 297-300, 274 293, 323
INDEX
Vic Victoria
to/from Myanmar 354-7 South Plain 308-9 Mrauk U 323
WA Western Australia
within Myanmar 358-60 Bagan Myothit 275-7, 307-8, 276 politics 42, 45
Akauk Taung 287 Bagaya Kyaung 250, 251 travel literature 28, 29
Alaungpaya, King 37-8, 85, 128, 140, Bago 140-6, 141, 8, 140-1 border crossings
247, 260, 283 Bamar language, see language China 222, 357
alcoholic drinks 76-7, see also toddy Bamar people 52 Laos 202
Amarapura 248-51, 248, 7 arrival in Myanmar 36 Thailand 169, 203, 357
Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 bathrooms 350 Botataung Paya 97-9
Ananada Pahto 300-1, 7 Bawgyo Paya 210-11 boulder stupa, see Kyaiktiyo
Ananada Pahto paya pwe 301 Bayinnaung, King 37, 129, 142-3, British in Myanmar, the 38-40
Anauk (West) Petleik Paya 307 166, 234 Buddha’s Birthday 340
Anawrahta, King 36-7, 60, 153, 287, beaches Buddhism 57-61, 66, see also
294, 298, 299, 303, 305, 309, 310 Anauntphettokan 130 meditation
Anawrahta’s Palace 299 Chaungtha Beach 135-8, 136 books 59
Andaw Paya 325 Kanthaya 318 Internet resources 59
animals 69-71, 225, see also individual Letkhokkon Beach 129-30 Buddhistic Museum 320
species Maungmagan 163, 10 Buledi 302
Anisakan Falls 207-8 Ngapali Beach 314-17, 315 Bupaya 299-300
Archeology Museum, Old Bagan 273 Ngwe Saung 138-9 Burma Road 215, 227
architecture 65-6 Paker Beach 167 Burma–Siam Railway 159
Bagan 293, 294 Pirate Beach 315 Burmese calendar 351
art galleries, see museums & galleries Setse 160 Burmese empires 36-9
arts 62-7, see also handicrafts and bears 70, 102, 225 Burmese language, see language
individual arts beer 76 bus travel 363-4
Asean 34, 47 Bhamo 220-1 bushwalking, see hiking
Asekhan Fort 254 Bhamo Myo Haung 220 business hours 334, see also inside
Ashe (East) Petleik Paya 307 bicycle travel, see cycling front cover
ATMs 344 bird-watching 332
Atumashi Kyaung 232 Inle Lake area 191 C
Aung San 40-1, 101 Mt Victoria area 329 calendar, Burmese 351
Aung San Suu Kyi 17, 18-19, 34, 40, Myitkyina area 218 canoeing 225, see also rafting
43-5, 47, 56, 61, 103, 161, 234, 305 Putao area 225 Cape Bayinnaung 166
Aungban 178 birds 70, see also bird-watching car travel 364-5
Ava, see Inwa black market 345, see also money restricted roads 364, 359
Ava Bridge 252 boat travel 361-3, 32, 12 caves
Azin Dam 158 itineraries 32, 32 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60
boat trips 135-6, 165-6, 10 Kawgun Cave 161
B Bagan area 268, 310 Maha Pasana Guha 99-100
Bagan 266-77, 293-310, 267, 270, Inle Lake 191 Padah-Lin Caves 179
274, 276, 5, 6, 268-9 Bogyoke Aung San 40-1, 101 Pindaya Caves 179, 10
1975 earthquake 295-6 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121 Saddar Cave 161
396 Index (C-G) Index (G-K) 397
caves continued Dawei 162-4 Dukkanthein paya pwe 327 gay travellers 342 Hindu temples health 371
Shwe Ba Taung 259 De Brito, Philip 92, 128, 143 Festival of Lights 249 gems 103-4, 194, 218, 242, 348 Nathlaung Kyaung 297-8 national parks 72
Shwe Oo Min Cave 175 Death Railway, The 159 Independence Day 340 geography 69, 51 Sri Devi 101 Intha people 181, 182-3
Ta-Eh Gu 191 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 371 Inle Lake Thadingyut 183 Gokteik Viaduct 208-9 Sri Kali 101 Inwa 251-2
Tilawkaguru 253 delta region 127-39, 127, 12 Inwa nat pwe 251 Golden Rock 149-52, 151, 8, 172-3 Sri Saraswati Gurkha 217 Inya Lake 103
U Naung Gu 208 departure tax 355 Irinaku Festival 250 golf 204, 235, 262, 315, 333 Sri Sri Siva Krishna 101 Inye Lake 135
Yathaypyan Cave 161 Dhammayangyi Pahto 303, 5, 268-9 Kachin State Day 218 Gubyaukgyi 305 history 35-47 islands
censorship 56 Dhammayazika Paya 308 Mahamuni paya pwe 237 Gubyauknge 302 1990 election 44-5 Bilu Kyun 156
central Myanmar 264-310, 265 Dhammazedi, King 37, 91-2, 96, Mandalay Thadingyut 237 Bagan 293-6 Gaungse Kyun 156-8
Chaukhtatgyi Paya 99 143 Mawdin Point 135 H Bago 140 Hienze 163
Chaungtha Beach 135-8, 136 di Conti, Nicolo 37 Mingun Nat Festival 256 Halingyi 262 books 35, 37, 39, 40, 48, 286 Kyet Mauk Island 167
children, travel with 334, 377 diarrhoea 374-5 Mt Popa Nadaw nat pwe 278 handicrafts 28, 347-9, see also gems, British in Myanmar, the 38-40 Lampi Kyun 167
Chin National Front 313 Diphuk-Ha 225 Mt Popa Nayon nat pwe 278 shopping Burmese empires 36-9 Launglon 164
Chin people 52-3, 313 disabled travellers 338-9 Murugu Festival 106 clothes & textiles 121, 122, 190, early kingdoms 35-6 Lon Khuet Island 167
INDEX
INDEX
Chin State 328-9 diving 167, 332-3, 375, 172-3 nat pwe 60-1 242, 347 economic sanctions on Myanmar Maungmagan Islands 163
Chinese temples Dragon Lake 282 Paleik Waso festival 252 lacquerware & pottery 120, 121, 18-19, 20, 21, 22, 34, 46-7 Mergui Archipelago 165-6, 167,
Chinese temple, Myitkyina 217 drinks 75-7, see also toddy Phaung Daw Oo 183 179, 189, 190, 207, 260, 275, independence & early woes 41-2 172-3
Chinese temple, Pyin U Lwin 204 beer stations 79 Pindaya paya pwe 179 277, 348, 268-9 Inwa 251 Mwedaw Kyun 167
Htyan Haw 155 teashops 79-80 sea-gypsy festival 167 paintings 120, 207 Mandalay 227 Myeik Archipelago 165-6, 167,
Kheng Hock Keong 100 toddy 77, 236-7 Shwedagon Festival 340 parasols 134, 179, 348, 11, 140-1 Mrauk U 323 172-3
Quan Yin San Temple 214-15 driving, see car travel Shwemawdaw Paya festival 144 souvenirs 28, 121, 122, 207, 224, prodemocracy protests 43, 59 Ogre Island 156
chinlon 68 Dukkanthein Paya 325-6 Shwenattaung Tabaung paya 242, 253, 275, 236-7 rise of nationalism 39-41 Paker Beach 167
churches & cathedrals Dukkanthein paya pwe 327 pwe 287 tapestries 120, 189, 207, 242, 349 the road to socialism 42-3 Pataw Padet Island 165
Christ the King Church 175 Start of the Buddhist Rains woodcarving & puppets 144, 207, Yangon 85 Shampoo Island 156
First Baptist Church 155 E Retreat 341 242, 275, 349 hitching 365 Whitesand Island 135-6
Immaculate Heart Cathedral 198 economic sanctions on Myanmar 22, Tagu nat pwe 278 Hanlin 262 Hkakabo Razi 225 itineraries 16, 30-3
Judson Baptist Church 235 34, 46-7 Taungbyone nat pwe 61 Hanthawady kingdom 37, 140, 142 Hmawza 286 activities 33, 33
Judson Church 155 Aung San Suu Kyi 18-19 Taunggyi Tazaungmon 195 Haw Sao Pha, Hsipaw 209-10 holidays 342, see also festivals boat travel 32, 32
Karen Baptist Church 163-4 government propoganda 20 Thadingyut 183, 237, 341 Haw Sao Pha, Kengtung 198 Hpa-an 161-2, 12 Yangon 88
climate 27, 335 Internet resources 21, 22 Thihoshin 280 health 369-78 Hpakan 218
climbing 225 economy 22, 34 Thingyan 106, 164, 340, 9 books 371 Hpayapon 129 J
consulates 339 education 62 Vesakha 133 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 371 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60 Jade Taw 314
costs 23, 27-9, 29, 339, see also money electricity 330 Wagaung nat pwe 278 dengue 372 Hsipaw 209-13, 210 Japanese war cemetery 142
bus travel 364 elephants 70, 101, 102, 135, 220, Water Festival 106, 164, 340, 9 diarrhoea 374-5 Htilominlo Pahto 301-2 jewellery, see gems
train travel 367 290-1, 140-1 Yadanagu Festival 250 heatstroke 375-6 Htongo 287 Ji-Chanzi 178
courses 106, 335-6 elephant camps 135, 220, 290-1 First Baptist Church 155 hepatitis 372 Hukuang Valley Tiger Reserve 72, Judson, Adoniram 160
martial arts 106 email access 342-3 fishing 136 HIV 372 225 Judson Church 155
meditation 106, 335-6 embassies 339 flora 71-2 insect bites & stings 376 human rights abuses 46-7 Jumping Cat Monastery 189
crafts, see handicrafts emergency services 382, see also food 74-5, 342 Internet resources 371
credit cards 344-5 inside front cover books 74, 75 jet lag 371-2 I K
cruises, see boat travel, boat trips endangered species 70-1 customs 80 malaria 373-4 immunisations 370 Kaba Aye Paya 99
Cultural Museum Mandalay 231-2 environmental issues 72-3 food vocabulary 81-3 motion sickness 371-2 Indawgyi Lake 218 Kachin people 53, 217, 220
culture 48-68, 74-5 books 72 restaurants 78-9 rabies 374 Indein 190, 172-3 Kachin State Cultural Museum 217
currency, see inside front cover endangered species 70-1 street snacks 77-8 vaccinations 370 Independence Day 340 Kakku 192-3
customs regulations 336 exchange rates, see inside front teashops 79-80 water 375 Inle Lake 176, 181-95, 182, 10, 11 Kalaw 173-8, 174
cycling 200, 332, 360-1 cover vegetarian travellers 80 women travellers 377 Inle Lake Thadingyut 183 Kalaymyo 262-3
forts Heho 180 Inleh Bo Teh 189 Kanbawzathadi Museum 142-3
D F Asekhan Fort 254 Hienze Island 163 insurance 342 Kanbawzathadi Palace 142-3
dance 62-3, 9 fauna, see wildilfe Mandalay Fort 233-4 hiking 333-4 health 369-70 Kandawgyi, Mudon 158
dangers 336-8 ferries, see boat travel Singyone Fort 254 Hsipaw area 211 insurgents 337 Kandawgyi, Yangon 102-3, 140-1
insurgents 337 festivals 28, 340-2, 9 Thabyedan Fort 254 Inle Lake area 191, 182 Internet access 342-3 Kandawgyi Gardens 204
Ananada Pahto paya pwe 301 Kalaw area 176, 179, 177 Internet resources 29 Kanthaya 318
000 Map pages Bawgyo paya pwe 211 G Kyaiktiyo area 151, 151 Buddhism 59 Karen Baptist Church 163
000 Location of colour photographs Buddha’s Birthday 340 Gaungse Kyun 156-8 northeastern Myanmar 208 economic sanctions on Karen National Liberation Army
Dawei Thingyan 164 Gawdawpalin Pahto 297 Putao area 224-5 Myanmar 21, 22 (KNLA) 160, 161
398 Index (K-M) Index (M-N) 399
Karen National Union (KNU) 160 Kandawgyi, Yangon 102-3, 140-1 food 238-45 Meiktila 287-9, 288 Soon Lu Kyaung 281 Buddhistic Museum 320
Karen people, see Kayin people Lake Meiktila 287 Internet access 227-8 Mergui 164-6 Taungpulu Meditation Monastery Cultural Museum Mandalay 231-2
Katha 222-4 Lay Kyaung Kandawgyi 291 Mandalay Hill 229-31, 236-7 Mergui Archipelago 165-6, 167, 172-3 178 Drug Eradication Museum 201
Kaung Daing 189 Naung Tung 196 money 229 Minbin, King 323, 324, 326 Thamanyat Kuang 161 Hanlin museum 262
Kaung Daing hot springs 189 Nga Ka Pwe Taung 282 postal services 229 Minbu 282 Thaung Tho Kyaung 190 Kachin State Cultural Museum
Kaungdire, see Kaung Daing Shan Lake, Pyinmana 289 shopping 241-5 Mindon Min, King 39, 96, 227, 232, Theinwa Kyaung 163-9 217
Kaunghmudaw Paya 254 Taungthaman Lake 249 tourist information 229 233, 234, 256 U Daung Monastery & meditation Kanbawzathadi Museum 142-3
Kawgun 161 Lampi Kyun 167 travel to/from 242-5 Mingalazedi 304-5, 5 centre 190 Kyaikmaraw Paya Museum 159
Kawthoung 166-9 language 379-85 travel within 245 Mingun 254-6, 255, 6, 236-7 Wat Jong Kham 198 Mahamuni Paya museum 328
Kayah people 53-4 architecture terms 295 walking tour 236, 235 Mingun Paya 255, 6 Water Lake Monastery 161 Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi
Kayah State 203 emergencies 382 Mandalay Fort 233-4 Mo-Baw waterfall 151 Yangon Kyaung 184 museum 320
kayaking 225, see also rafting food vocabulary 81-3 Mandalay Hill 229-31, 236-7 Mon Cultural Museum 153 money 27-9, 344-6, see also costs Mandalay Palace Culture Museum
Kayin people 54, 160-1, 291 glossary 386-8 Mandalay Palace 233-4, 236-7 Mon National Liberation Front (MNLF) ATMs 344 233
Kayin State 160-2 Lashio 213-17, 214 Mandalay Thadingyut 237 148 credit cards 344-5 Mon Cultural Museum 153-6
Kekku 192-3 Lawkahteikpan Pahto 303 Mandalay Zoological Garden 235 Mon people 54, 148-9 exchange rates, see inside front cover Museum of Shan Chiefs 183
Kengtung 196-200, 197, 172-3 Lawkananada Paya 307 Manuha, King 36-7, 275, 294, 305, 306 arrival in Myanmar 35-6 moneychangers 345 Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems
Kentung hot-springs 200 Launglon 164 Manuha Paya 305-6 Mon State 148-60 travellers cheques 344-5 Market 103-4
Khan, Kublai 37, 293, 308 legal matters 343 maps 343-4 monasteries, see also paya Mong Hpayak 200 Myasigon Paya museum 290
Kheng Hock Keong 100 Leimyethna Pahto 308 marionette theatre 63 Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 Mong La 201-2 Na-Gar Glass Factory 104
kickboxing 67-8, 106 lesbian travellers 342 markets 140-1, 268-9 Atumashi Kyaung 232 Monywa 256-9, 257, 236-7 National Museum 101
Kinpun 150, 151, 152 Letkhokkon Beach 129-30 Bhamo 220 Bagaya Kyaung 250, 251 Moseah Yeshua Synagogue 100 Palace Museum, Mrauk U 324
Kothaung Temple 326 Li-lu 213 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121 Bandoola Kyaung 326 mosques Rakhaing State Cultural Museuem
Kunyangon 129 Linthar 314 Heho 180 Jumping Cat Monastery 189 Jama Mosque 320 320
Kuthodaw Paya 232 literature 28, 67, see also books Hsipaw 211 Kan Gyi Kyaung 183 Ja-me Mosque 217 Shan State Cultural Museum 194
Kyaik Pun Paya 143, 8 Loi-mwe 200 Kengtung 196, 198 Kha Khat Wain Kyaung 144 Kaladan Mosque 155 Thandwe art gallery 317
Kyaikkami 160 Lon Khuet Island 167 Lashio 214 Koun Soun Taungbo 191 Moghul Shiah Mosque 155 Thayekhitta museum 286
Kyaikmaraw 158-9 Lontha 314 Mandalay 236, 242 Kyinigan Kyaung 142 Soorti Sunni Jamai Mosque 155 music 63-5
Kyaikmaraw Paya 158-9 Lonton 218 Mawlamyine 155 Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung 235 Suni Mosque 317 Mwedaw Kyun 167
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149-52, 151, Mingala Market, Nyaungshwe 185 Maha Aungmye Bonzan 251-2 motorcycle travel 364-5 Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems
8, 172-3 M Pathein 133 Maha Ganayon Kyaung 249 Mottama 153 Market 103-4
Kyaingtong 196-200, 197, 172-3 Ma Li Won rock pools 167 Pyin U Lwin 207 Maha Ledi Kyaung 257, 236-7 Moulmein, see Mawlamyine Myasigon Paya 290
Kyanzittha Umin 310 magazines 330 Sibinthaya Zei 165 Maha Myat Muni 198 Mt Kyaikto 149, 150 Myazedi 305
Kyauk Taung 190 Magwe 281-3, 282 Taunggyi 193-4 Maing Thauk forest monastery 190 Mt Popa 277-9, 11 Myeik 164-6
Kyaukka 260 Maha Kalyani Sima 143 Thandwe 317 Mimalaung Kuang 297 Mt Zwegabin 161 Myeik Archipelago 165-6, 167, 172
Kyaukme 209 Maha Kalyani Thein 143 water-buffalo market, Kengtung 198 Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi 320 mountain climbing 225 Myingyan 281
Kyauktan 127-8 Maha Ledi Kyaung 257, 236-7 Yangon 103-4, 121 Mt Kyaikto 149 mountains Myit-son 217-18
Kyauktawgyi Paya, Anarapura 249-50 Maha Pasana Guha 99-100 Ywama 189-90 Nga Hpe Chaung 189 Diphuk-Ha 225 Myinkaba 275, 304-7, 5
Kyauktawgyi Paya, Mandalay 233 Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya 100 Martaban, see Mottama Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung 184 Hkakobo Razi 225 Myitkyina 217-20
Kyet Mauk Island 167 Mahabandoola Garden 101 martial arts 67-8, 106 Ok Kyaung 251-2 Mt Kyaikto 149, 150 Myohaung 322-8, 324, 5, 6, 268-9
Mahabodhi Paya 299 Martyrs’ Mausoleum 101 Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 158 Mt Popa 277-9, 11
L Mahagiri shrine 278 massage 104 Pakhangyi 280 Mt Victora 329 N
Labutta 129 Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay 234, 328 Maungmagan 163, 10 Pakhanngeh Kyaung 280 Mt Zwegabin 161 Naga people 54-5
lacquerware, see handicrafts Mahamuni Paya, Mawlamyine 155 Maungmagan Islands 163 Payagyi 163 Namni-Lka 225 Na-Gar Glass Factory 104
lakes Mahamuni Paya, Mrauk U 328 Mausoleum of the Khün Princes 198 Sa-ma-taung Paya Kyaung 151 Phongun Razi 225 Nagayon 306-7
Boutalake Lake 179 Mahazedi Paya 143-4 Maw Daw Myin Tha Paya 260 Sasanayaunggyi Kyaung 280 Ya-The Mountain 151 Namhkam Valley 221-2
Dragon Lake 282 Maing Thauk 190 Mawdin Point 135 Seindon Mibaya Kyaung 155 Moustache Brothers Troupe 21, 240-1, Namhsan 213
Indawgyi Lake 218 Ma-Kyon-Galet 167 Mawdinsoun 135 Shwe Daung U meditation centre 236-7 Namni-Lka 225
Inle Lake 176, 181-225, 182, 10, 11 malaria 373-4 Mawlamyaing, see Mawlamyine 257 Mrauk U 322-8, 324, 5, 6, 268-9 Namtu 213
Inya Lake 103 Mandalay 226-45, 228-9, 230-1, Mawlamyine 153-8, 154, 172-3 Shwe Gu Kyaung 183 Mudon 158 Nan Paya, Bagan 306
Inye Lake 135 235, 12, 236-7 Maymyo, see Pyin U Lwin Shwe In Bin Kyaung 234-5 Mu-se 221-2 Nandamannya Pahto 309
Kandawgyi, Mudon 158 accommodation 237-45 measurements 330, see also inside Shwe Kyaung 288 Museum of Shan Chiefs 183 Nanmyin 251
activities 235 front cover Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung 184 museums & galleries Nanthe 185, 191
000 Map pages attractions 229-35 medical services 372, see also health Shwenandaw Kyaung 232-3 Archeology Museum, Old Bagan 273 nat, the 59-61, 310
000 Location of colour photographs drinking 240-5 meditation 106, 158, 335-6 Snake Monastery 144 Bagaya Kyaung museum 250 nat pwe 60-1, see also festivals
entertainment 240-5 visas 335 Somingyi Kyaung 307 Bogyoke Aung San Museum 101 Nathlaung Kyaung 297-8
400 Index (N-P) Index (P-Q) 401
National Kandawgyi Gardens 204 passports 354 Inle Lake nat shrine 191 Myasigon Paya 290 Shwemokhtaw Paya 131-2 Yele Paya, Kyaikkami 160
National League for Democracy (NLD) Pataw Padet Island 165 Kaba Aye Paya 99 Myazedi 305 Shwemyetman Paya 286-7, 6 Yele Paya, Twante 128
43-5, 160 Pathein 130-5, 131, 140-1 Kandawgyi Paya 158 Nagayon 306-7 Shwenattaung Paya 287 Youqson Kyaung 279
National Museum 101 paya, see also Chinese temples, Kaunghmudaw Paya 254 Nan Paya, Bagan 306 Shwesandaw Paya, Bagan 303, paya pwe, see festivals
national parks 72 churches & cathedrals, Hindu Kawmudaw Paya 291 Nan Paya, Salay 279-80 268-9 Payagyi 163
National Unity Party (NUP) 43, 44 temples, monasteries Kohtatgyi Paya 100 Nandamannya Pahto 309 Shwesandaw Paya, Pyay 283 Payagyi Paya 284
Ne Win, General 42-3, 46, 59, 100, Abeyadana Pahto 306 Kondawgyi Pahto 310 Nandaw Paya 317 Shwesandaw Paya, Taungoo 290 Payathonzu, Bagan 308-9
103, 227 Ah Lain Nga Sint Paya 100 Kothaung Temple 326 Nee Paya 175 Shwesandaw Paya, Twante 128-9 Payathonzu, Salay 279
New Bagan 275-7, 307-8 Ananada Pahto 300-1, 7 Kuthodaw Paya 232 New Pyi Lon Chantha Paya 215 Shwetaung Paya 326-7 Pegu, see Bago
New Mon State Party (NMSP) 148 Anauk (West) Petleik Paya 307 Kyaik Pun Paya 143, 8 Ngahtatgyi Paya 100 Shwethalyaung Buddha 141-2 People’s Park 104
newspapers 56, 330 Andaw Paya 318, 325 Kyaik-khauk Paya 128 Nyaung Ohak 190 Shwethalyaung Daw Mu 163 Peshawar Relics Paya 231
Nga Hpe Chaung 189 Andawshin Pa 217 Kyaikmaraw Paya 158-9 Padamya Zedi 253 Shwezigon Paya, Bagan 294, 309-10 Phaung Daw Oo 183
Nga Ka Pwe Taung 282 Antaka Yele Paya 287-8 Kyaikthanlan Paya 155 Pagoda of Many Elephants 253 Shwezigon Paya, Monywa 257 Phaung Daw Oo Paya 190
Ngapali 314 Army Pagoda 260 Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149-52, Pahtodawgyi 250 Shwezigon Paya, Pathein 133 Phongun Razi 225
INDEX
INDEX
Ngapali Beach 314-17, 315 Ashe (East) Petleik Paya 307 151, 8, 172-3 Pahtothamya 297 Sittana Paya 307-8 photography 346
Ngwe Daug 291 Atula Shwethalyaung 165 Kyanzittha Umin 310 Payagyi Paya 284 Snake Pagoda 252 pick-up truck travel 366
Ngwe Saung 138-9 Aung Chang Tha Zedi 175 Kyauk Gu Ohnmin 310 Payathonzu, Bagan 308-9 Soon U Ponya Shin Paya 253 Pindaya 178-80
NLD 43-5, 160 Aung Htu Kan Tha 208 Kyaukhpyugyi Paya 185 Payathonzu, Salay 279 statue of Lokanat 142 Pindaya Caves 179, 10
northeastern Myanmar 170-225, 171 Aung Mye Hsu Taung 260 Kyauktalon Taung 158 Peshawar Relics Paya 231 Sulamani Pahto 304 Pirate Beach 315
Nyaung U 269-73, 309-10, 270 Aung Setkya Paya 259 Kyauktawgyi Paya, Amarapura Phaung Daw Oo Paya 190 Sule Paya 97 Pitaka Taik, Bagan 299
Nyaungshwe 183-9, 184 Aung Theikdi Zedi 155 249-50 Pondaw Paya 255 Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw 132 Pitaka Taik, Mrauk U 326
Aungmyelawka Paya 253 Kyauktawgyi Paya, Mandalay 233 Pyathada Paya 304 Tagaung Paya 132 planning 27-9, see also itineraries
O Bawbawgyi Paya 286 Kyinigan Kyaung 142 Pyi Lon Chantha 215 Taw Myat Paya 100 plants 71-2
Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds 129 Bawgyo Paya 210-11 Laungbanpyauk Paya 326 Pyi Taw Aye Paya 166 Tayok Pye Paya 308 politics 34
Old Bagan 273-5, 297-300, 274 Bodhi Dat Taw Taik 281 Lawkahteikpan Pahto 303 Rahanta cave temple 286 Temple No 99 279 books 42, 45
organised tours, see tours Bodhi Tataung 259 Lawkananada Paya 307 Ratanabon Paya 325-6 Thabeik Hmauk 304 population 34, 50, 50-6, 52
Orwell, George 153, 222 Botataung Paya 97-9 Lawkatharaphu Paya 252 Sakyamanaung Paya 326 Thambula Pahto 309 Bamar people 36, 52
boulder stupa, see Kyaiktiyo Laymyetnha Paya 326 Sa-ma-taung paya 151 Thamya Pahto 297 Chin people 52-3
P Buledi 302 Le-htat-gyi Paya 252 Sandamani Paya 232 Thanboddhay Paya 259 Intha people 181, 182-3
Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 158 Bupaya 299-300 Leikyunynaung Paya 132-3 Sandaw Paya 318 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298 Kachin people 53
Padah-Lin Caves 179 Chaukhtatgyi Paya 99 Leimyethna Pahto 308 Sandawshin Paya 156 Thein Taung Paya 175 Karen people 54, 160-1, 291
Pagan, see Bagan Dhamma Yon 175 Leimyetna Paya 133 Sasana 2500-Year Paya 215 Theindawgyi Paya 165, 220 Kayah people 53-4
Pahtothamya 297 Dhammayangyi Pahto 303, 5, Lokananda Paya 320 Sehtatgyi Paya 283 Thetkyamuni 310 Kayin people 54, 160-1, 291
painting 67 268-9 Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya 100 Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307 Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi 132 Mon people 35-6, 54, 148-9
Paker Beach 167 Dhammayazika Paya 308 Mahabodhi Mingala Zedi 132 Seinnyet Nyima Paya 307 Third Mile Pagoda 167 Naga people 54-5
Pakokku 280-1 Dukkanthein Paya 325-6 Mahabodhi Paya 299 Setkyathiha Paya 236 Tilawkaguru 253 Pa-O people 176, 178, 191, 192, 10
palaces Eindawya Paya 236 Mahabodhi Shwegu 326 Settawya Paya 255 Tupayon Paya 253 Rakhaing people 36, 55, 312-13
Alaungpaya’s Palace 260 Four Figures Paya 143 Mahagiri shrine 278 Settayaw Paya 132 Twenty-Eight Paya 132 Rohingya people 313
Amarapura Palace 250 Gaung-Say-Kyan Paya 143 Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay 234, 328 Shan temple ruins, Inle Lake 189 U Khanti Paya 155 Shan people 55, 208, 211
Anawrahta’s Palace 299 Gawdawpalin Pahto 297 Mahamuni Paya, Mawlamyine 155 Shin Upagot shrine 102 U Zina Paya 155 Wa people 55-6
Haw Sao Pha, Hsipaw 209 Golden Rock 149-52, 151, 8, Mahamuni Paya, Mrauk U 328 Shinmokhti Paya 163 Umin Thounzeh 253 postal services 346
Haw Sao Pha, Kengtung 198 172-3 Mahamuni Paya, Putao 224 Shinpinsarkyo Paya 279 Wat Ho Kong 198 prodemocracy protests 43, 59
Kanbawzathadi Palace 142-3 Great Image of Hsu Taung Pre 328 Mahamyatmuni Paya 210, 215 Shittaung 324-5 Wat In 198 Prome, see Pyay
Mandalay Palace 233-4, 236-7 Gubyaukgyi 305 Mahazedi Paya 143-4 Shwe Ba Taung 259 Wat Pha Jao Lung 198 Putao 224-5
Mrauk U Royal Palace, 323-4 Gubyauknge 302 Mandalay Hill Buddha image 231 Shwe Daza Paya 260 Wat Pha That Jom Mon 198 pwe, see festivals
Nanmyin 251 Haridaung Paya 324 Mann Paya 280 Shwe Gu Ni Paya 260 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 Pwe Kauk Falls 208
Paleik 252 Hintha Gon Paya 143 Mansu Paya 215 Shwe Inn Thein 190 Win Sein Taw Ya 158 Pwehla 178
Panglong 213 Hmwe Paya 252 Manuha Paya 305-6 Shwe-kyet-kya 250 Wunchataung Paya 283 Pyathada Paya 304
Pa-O people 176, 178, 191, 192, 10 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60 Maw Daw Myin Tha Paya 260 Shwe-kyet-yet 250 Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-pye Pyay 283-5, 284
parasols 134, 179, 348, 11, 140-1 Hsinbyume Paya 256 Mawdin Paya 135 Shwe Oo Min Paya 175, 179 Paya 252 Pyin U Lwin 204-7, 205, 11, 172-3
Pascal Khoo Thwe 21, 26, 48 Hsinmyashin Paya 253 Me La Mu Paya 100 Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5, 7, 8 Yadana Man Aung Paya 183 Pyinmana 289-90
Hsu Taung Pye Paya 175 Mingalazedi 304-5, 5 Shwegugale Paya 144 Yadana Taung 158 Pyu kingdom 35, 36
000 Map pages Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw 217 Mingun Paya 255, 6 Shwegugyi 298 Yankin Paya 235
000 Location of colour photographs Htilaingshin Paya 252 Molmi Paya 256 Shwekyimyint Paya 236 Yat Thaw Mu 198 Q
Htilominlo Pahto 301-2 Mya Tha Lun Paya 282 Shwemawdaw Paya 142, 140-1 Yau Kyaw Paya 100 Quan Yin San Temple 214-15
402 Index (R-U) I n d e x ( V - Z ) 403
R Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds 129 Tayaw 176 V wildlife 69-71, 225, see also birds, itineraries 88
rabies 374 Pathein parasol workshops 134 teashops 79-80 vaccinations 370 individual species medical services 88
radio 330 Taunggyi gem market 194 telephone services 349-50, see also
rafting 225, 333 Shwe Daung 291 inside front cover vegetarian travellers 80 women in Myanmar 61-2 money 89
Rakhaing people 55, 312-13 Shwe In Bin Kyaung 234-5 television 330 video systems 330, 346 women travellers 352-3, 377 postal services 89
arrival in Myanmar 36 Shwe Oo Min Cave 175 temples, see Chinese temples, Hindu visas 335, 351-2, see also passports WWII 40-1, 215 shopping 120-2
Rakhaing State 314-19, 319-28 Shwebo 260-2, 261 temples, paya meditation 335 Burma Road 215, 227 Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5,7,8
Rakhaing State Cultural Museuem 320 Shwedagon Festival 340 Tenasserim Division, see Tanintharyi voluntary work 352 Burma–Siam Railway 159 special events 106
Rangoon, see Yangon Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5, 7, 8 Division Death Railway, The 159 tourist offices 89
red panda 70-1, 225 Shwedaung 286-7 Thabeik Hmauk 304 W war cemeteries 140, 142, 159 tours 106
religion 56-61 Shwegugyi 298 Thadingyut 183, 341 Wa people 55-6. travel to/from 122-4
Islam 313 Shwemawdaw Paya 142, 140-1 Thamanyat Kuang 161
reptiles 70 Shwemokhtaw Paya 131-2 Thambula Pahto 309 walking, see hiking Y travel within 125
responsible travel 17-26, 71 Shwemyetman Paya 286-7, 6 Thamya Pahto 297 Wan Pasak 202 Yadana gas pipeline 163 walking tour 105-6, 105
cultural considerations 49 Shwenandaw Kyaung 232-3 Than Shwe, General 22, 34, 40, 47, war cemeteries Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-pye Yar Thait 176
Bago 142 Paya 252 Yatetaung 150
INDEX
tourism 21-2, 24-6
INDEX
Shwenyaung 180-1 85, 320
restaurants 78-9 Shwesandaw Paya, Bagan 303, 268-9 Thanboddhay Paya 259 Taukkyan 140 Yangon 84-125, 86-7, 90-1, 94, 98-9, Ya-The Mountain 151
rhinoceros 70 Shwesandaw Paya, Pyay 283 Thanbyuzayat 159 Thanbyuzayat 159 102-3, 105, 5, 7, 8, 140-1 Yaungwhe 183-9
Rohingya people 313 Shwesandaw Paya, Taungoo 290 Thandwe 317-18 Wat Jong Kham 198 accommodation 106-12 Yebok 179
Roman Catholic Mission 198 Shwesandaw Paya, Twante 128-9 Thanlyin 127-8 water-buffalo market, Kengtung activities 104-5 Yele Paya, Kyaikkami 160
Royal Palace, Mrauk U 323-4 Shwetaung Paya 326-7 Tharaba Gate 299 198 attractions 90-104 Ye-Ngan 179
S Shwethalyaung Buddha 141-2 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298
Shwethalyaung Daw Mu 163 Thaton 152-3 Water Festival 340, 9 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121 Youqson Kyaung 279
Saddar Cave 161 weights & measures 330, see also inside drinking 118-19 Ywama 189-90
safe travel, see also dangers, Shwezigon Paya, Bagan 294, 309-10 Thayekhittaya 286
Sittana Paya 307-8 Thazi 172-3 front cover emergency services 87
emergency services western Myanmar 311-29, 312 entertainment 119-20 Z
animal bites 336-7 Sittwe 319-22, 319 theatre 62-3
hitching 365 Slorc 17, 43 theft 337 Wethali 328 festivals 106 zoos
insect bites 336-7 Snake Monastery 144 Theindawgyi Paya 165 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 food 112-18 Mandalay Zoological Garden 235
insurgents 337 Snake Pagoda (Hmwe Paya) 252 Theinwa Kyaung 163 Whitesand Island 135-6 Internet access 87-8 Yangon Zoological Garden 101-2
scams 338 snorkelling 135-6, 315, 332-3 Thibaw 209-13
theft 337 Somingyi Kyaung 307 Thibaw Min, King 39, 97-9, 101, 227,
Sagaing 252-4 southeastern Myanmar 147-69, 149 232, 233, 234
Sagaing State 252-4, 256-63 special events 28, 340-2, see also Thingyan 164, 340, 9
Sakyamanaung Paya 326 festivals Thirimyaing Lan 167
Salay 279-80 sports 67-8 tigers 70, 72, 102, 225
Sandamani Paya 232 Sri Ksetra 286 Tilawkaguru 253
Sankar 193 Start of the Buddhist Rains Retreat time 350, 392
Sarabha Gate 299 341 tipping 345-6
Sarlai 280 State Law & Order Restoration Council toddy 77, 236-7
sculpture 67 (Slorc) 17, 43 toilets 350
Sehtatgyi Paya 283 State Peace & Development Council tourist information 350
Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307 (SPDC) 17, 45 tours 106
Seinnyet Nyima Paya 307 stupas, see paya organised outside Myanmar 358
Setse 160 Sulamani Pahto 304 organised within Myanmar 225,
Shampoo Island 156 Sule Paya 97 268, 329, 366
Shan palaces 198, 209-10 swimming 104, 235 responsible travel 26
Shan people 55, 208, 211 train travel 366-8
Shan State Army (SSA) 214
T tramping, see hiking
Tachileik 202-3 travel insurance 342
Shinmokhti Paya 163 Ta-Eh Gu 191
Shinpinsarkyo Paya 279 travellers cheques 344-5
Shittaung 324-5 Tahan 262 trekking, see hiking
Shittaung Pillar 324-5 Tahaungdam 225 truck travel 366
shopping 346-9, see also handicrafts, Talay 200 tsunami, 2004 34, 127, 314
markets, parasols Tanintharyi Division 162-9 TV 330
Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems Taukkyan 140 Twante 128-9
Market 103-4 Taunggok 318-19 © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Taunggyi 193-5, 194 U restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Na-Gar Glass Factory 104 U Bein’s Bridge 248-9, 7
Taunggyi Tazaungmon 195
Taungoo 290-2 U Nu 41-2, 42 only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
000 Map pages Taungthaman 249 United Wa State Army 196 everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
000 Location of colour photographs Taungthaman Lake 249 Upali Thein 301
Tavoy, see Dawei Upper Sagaing District 256-63 the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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Should You Go? 17 Around Pathein

Kengtung (Kyaingtong) 196 Bagan & CENTRAL PLAIN 302

Business Hours 334 Telephone 349 Hitching 365

Regional Map Contents Travelling With Children

Should You Go?

THE BOYCOTT SPLIT

Other groups against tourism suggest that the government’s restrictions

TOURISM NUMBERS GOVERNMENT FEES

IF YOU GO WHERE THE MONEY GOES

SPREAD YOUR MONEY

DIY VS PACKAGE TOURS

Presently no tourist gets more criticism from proboycott and protourism

If you simply have to take a package tour of Myanmar, be sure to ask

COSTS & MONEY

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

If you’re travelling around by public transport and are OK with rice-

THE BIG-FOUR EXPANSION Four Weeks/Yangon to Mrauk U

Kyaiktiyo (p000) for the night; wake up by doing a truck/trek up to the

If time is short, BANGLADESH

The Big-Four Fenzy The Big-Four Expansion

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED TAILORED TRIPS

kick-back spot on the Bay of Bengal. also be arranged in Kawthoung.

journey – from Myitkyina

foreign face. Ngapali

man Paya (p000) sits in a temple near Pyay. Any Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPArundyShweag

ing into trances and being possessed by spirits,

Ayeyarwady Ho! Myanmarvels & the Outright Odd

The Coordinating Author’s Favourite Trip

MICHAEL GROSBERG Yangon, Around Yangon,

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

WHERE HUMANS BEGAN?

TIMELINE 543 BC 1st century BC

AD 754 6th–9th century 849 1057

quickly seized all of southern Burma, conquering Yangon, Pathein (Bas-

1270s 1273 1364 1435

1472 1550 1627 1753–5

1826 1852 1885 1947–8

1990 ELECTION & THE NLD

1962 1975 1988 1990

1996 1997 2003 2004

The Culture nat (spirit) inside (see p000). TheCultr/RigonBdsmIMyar/The37Nt

and the Chin and Rakhaing to the west. Pathein YANGON

of pride and prejudice cause friction between

Devout Theravada Buddhists, the Bamar by air, without permit.

Kachin State Cultural

) and – with a permit

in Kayin State that travel-

around Inle Lake (p000

), Kengtung (p000) and

Nat Festivals WOMEN IN MYANMAR

TRADITIONAL BURMESE MUSIC CDS ROCK & RAP CDS

of music most readily in the Ayeyarwady Delta between Twante and ).

As with Myanmar’s flora, the variation in Myanmar’s wildlife is closely

móun·s’i·jaw mun'¾zIeäk;'' sweet fried-rice pancakes than·bǎya·dhì o®pr;oI" lime

Yangon HISTORY monly seen in the city centre and satellite

r n ' .un ' paratively young – it only became the cap-

0 2 km INFORMATION Maha Pasan Guha................................16 C3 SLEEPING

To Hliang Thar Yar 25

Pun Hlaing 2 34 its ta

Kanbe To Yau Kyaw

See Yangon Map p90-1

Myanmar. Police (%199)

The views from the gravity-defying marvel Thanlwin River