2021 03 01BakefromScratch

Our Guide to Bring on the Cheese: The
Master Meringue Cheesiest Breadsticks and More
FROM SCRATCH ® BANANA PUDDING

HUMMINGBIRD LAYER CAKE
page 69
60
PuDdInG
Recipes for
Sweet Spring
Baking
PoWeR
Why a
Pudding Layer
Makes the
Best Cakes
Strawberries
4 Ways: Baked,
Roasted, Fresh,
Macerated
#thebakefeed
MAR/APR 2021 VOLUME
$12.99US $15.99CAN
7, ISSUE 2
FEATURING
04
Fast Fix: The Forgotten Cookies You’ll Never Forget
Freeform Baking: Don’t Miss the Black Forest Pavlova
7 25274 01695 2 The Fastest Puff Pastry Recipe Ever
DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 17, 2021
FROM SCRATCH
®
table of contents
17 Hot from the Oven: Sustainable Baking

This Earth Day, we are bringing you mindfully
27 Baker Profile: Baking Between Friends
Get an intimate first look at—and taste of—
packaged products and bakers who are leading a Julie Tanous and Jessie Tyler Ferguson’s new
bread grain renaissance cookbook, Food Between Friends
19 Baker Spotlight: Alon Shaya

Alon Shaya revives baking history with a walnut
33 THE ESSENTIAL . . . MERINGUE
Swiss, Italian, and French: from soft and stiff
cream cake from concentration camp survivor peaks to underwhipping and overwhipping, we
Steven Fenves’s Yugoslavian family cookbook explain all things meringue
21 From the Pantry: Salt

From a pink salt mine 5,000 feet under the 43 FOUR WAYS WITH STRAWBERRIES
Himalayas to the evaporated surface of shallow Whether roasted, macerated, baked, or served
ocean pools, salt makes it to our pantry from fresh, Emma Duckworth’s strawberry recipes
around the world will have you welcoming spring’s bounty in the
sweetest way
25 Retro Redo: Folar de Rosas

Jeremiah Duarte Bills updates a classic enriched 53 PERFECTLY IMPERFECT
bread recipe from the Portuguese Azores and Free-form desserts—from Pavlovas with rich
shares the sweet memories that inspired his Chocolate Pastry Cream and tart dark cherries
stunning take on the storied original to a twisted bread loaf that summons a giant
cinnamon roll—are meant to be rustic
3 bake from scratch
59 THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING CAKES 99 AN IRISH EASTER
Three bakers offer a romantic look at Ireland in
From an orange Creamsicle-inspired layer cake
to a head-turning Banana Pudding Hummingbird spring and three recipes to get you in the Irish
Cake—take cake to the next level with a dose of baking spirit
creamy pudding
107 Origin of a Classic: Ensaymada
71 ROUGH PUFF AND READY Our baking and pastry editor dives into the
delicious roots of the Filipino favorite ensaymada
See the lamination magic our rough puff pastries
bring without the time-consuming traditional
method 111 Fast-Fix Baking: Chocolate-Orange Forgotten
Cookies
A cookie that practically bakes itself, forgotten
79 PARKER HOUSE ROLL REDUX
No matter how you shape them, Parker House
cookies use the residual heat of the oven to
bake—meaning you can wake up to cookie
rolls are the iconic American dinner rolls: perfection
buttery, soft, flaky, and 100% delicious
113 Talk to Trish: Trish with a Grain of Salt
89 SAY CHEESE
From crispy Cheese-Thyme Cookies to
Our test kitchen expert, Tricia Manzanero,
answers all your tough questions—from the
science behind cream of tartar to lemon curd
wonderfully soft Parmesan-Herb Buttermilk troubleshooting
Bread, these cheesy recipes don’t disappoint
march | april 2021 4

DUTCH OVEN
BREAD
For our first lesson of 2021 in the Better Baking
Academy with Bob’s Red Mill, we took on a
classic no-knead Dutch oven bread. This bread
recipe is a favorite for a reason: bakers can make
a supremely crisp, chewy, and flavorful loaf of
bread with little to no effort on their part. Our
Dutch Oven Bread receives a hearty boost from
Bob’s Red Mill Artisan Bread Flour and Bob’s Red
Mill Whole Wheat Flour. Beyond offering you a
foolproof base recipe, we’ll take you through each
step of the process, from shaping your boule to
how to add in mix-ins and how to make the most
of your trusty Dutch oven!
DUTCH OVEN BREAD
Makes 1 loaf better
A classic no-knead bread dough recipe should be as easy as it sounds. In this
recipe, quality ingredients, time, and a Dutch oven do all the work. Made
with an earthy combination of Bob’s Red Mill Artisan Bread Flour and Bob’s
Red Mill Whole Wheat Flour, our bread dough spends most of its time in the
BAKING
refrigerator, slowly fermenting and building flavor. Then, when it’s ready, we
pop it into a piping hot Dutch oven, creating an unbeatable crisp crust and
chewy crumb that rivals the best boules from a bakery.
ACADEMY
3½ cups (445 grams) Bob’s Red Mill Artisan Bread Flour
with
1¼ cups (156 grams) Bob’s Red Mill Whole Wheat Flour
4 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast
2 cups (480 grams) warm water (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
Semolina flour, for dusting
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together bread flour, whole wheat
flour, salt, and yeast. (Any mix-ins you want to use should be added at this
point.) Add 2 cups (480 grams) warm water; using the paddle attachment,
beat at medium speed until a sticky dough forms, about 30 seconds.
2. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°/24°C) until doubled
in size, 1½ to 2 hours. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or preferably
overnight.
3. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured surface. Using floured hands,
lightly press dough into a 1-inch-thick oval. Grab bottom edge, and gently
stretch and fold bottom third over to center. Stretch right side out, and
fold right third over to center; repeat with left side. Finish by folding top
third over previous folds. Roll loaf away from you to seam side down, and
using both hands, cup dough and pull it toward you to seal. Turn dough
90 degrees, and pull again until a tight, smooth boule forms.
Place, seam side up, in a banneton (proofing basket) or a medium
bowl lined with a kitchen towel heavily dusted with bread flour.
Loosely cover dough with towel, and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours.
4. When dough has 30 minutes left to rise, place Dutch oven and
lid in cold oven. Preheat oven to 500°F (260°C).
5. Dust a piece of parchment paper with semolina flour, and turn
out dough seam side down. Score bread, if desired. Carefully
remove hot Dutch oven from oven; remove lid, and place dough, on
parchment, in Dutch oven. Cover with lid, and place back in oven.
6. Immediately reduce oven temperature to 425°F (220°C).
Bake for 25 minutes. Remove lid, and bake until an instant-
read thermometer inserted in center of loaf registers
200°F (93°C), 20 to 30 minutes more. Immediately
remove loaf from Dutch oven, and let cool completely on a wire
rack before slicing or storing.
JOIN THE Love what you see? Join the Better Baking Academy today
BETTER BAKING to keep up with each month of recipes and lessons. Visit
ACADEMY! bakefromscratch.com/better-baking-academy to enroll.
FROM SCRATCH
march | april 2021 Volume 7, Issue 2
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman
MANAGING EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR Tricia Manzanero Deanna Rippy Gardner
ASSISTANT EDITOR Sandi Shriver
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Alex Kolar SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother ST YLISTS
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Lily Simpson, Melissa Sturdivant Smith,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY Dorothy Walton
Mac Jamieson
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS Laura Crandall, J.R. Jacobson, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, Stephanie Welbourne Steele Megan Lankford, Vanessa Rocchio,
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT Leah Rasbury
Emma Duckworth sCONTRIBUTING RECIPE DEVELOPERS
Darina Allen, Jeremiah Duarte Bills,
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Emma Duckworth, Jesse Tyler Ferguson,
Delisa McDaniel Dolester Miles, Shane Smith,
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore Gemma Stafford, Julie Tanous
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar
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COOKBOOK
FIFTH ANNIVERSARY
FROM SCRATCH®
ARTISAN RECIPES
FOR THE HOME BAKER
Welcome to the wonderful world of artisan
baking. This is the beginning of another
adventure in dough and batter, butter and Ŵour.
After Ɠve inspiring years of innovative recipes,
travel, and the celebration of bakers and cultures
FROM SCRATCH® worldwide, we bring you this collection of more
ARTISAN RECIPES than 650 recipes, commemorating the Ɠfth year
FOR THE HOME BAKER of Bake from Scratch magazine. Showcasing fresh,
BRIAN HART HOFFMAN seasonal ingredients and celebrating tradition
and history, this edition offers something for
everyone. Featuring step-by-step tutorials, tried-
and-tested recipes, and stunning photography,
this cookbook will have you mastering yeasted
breads, layer cakes, cookies, and so much more.
So, dust your surfaces with Ŵour and preheat your
ovens, bakers. Let the baking begin!
preorder
volume five
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INCLUDES ALL
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IN DEDICATION TO IRENE YEH

On December 23, 2020, we lost our beloved test
kitchen director Irene Yeh after a hard-fought battle
with cancer. We dedicate this issue of Bake from Scratch
to her, as each page reflects her passion and devotion
to the culinary world. Her beautiful legacy will live on
in the Irene Yeh Test Kitchen at Hoffman Media. Thank
you, Irene, for everything.
9 bake from scratch

from the editor
SPRING IS THE SEASON

OF OPPORTUNITY.
Bakers have the opportunity to grow and harvest fresh herbs, work with
the first of the season’s sweet strawberries, and organize their enormous
pan collection during spring cleaning. I say “organize,” because I can’t part
with a single Bundt pan, copper mold, or mixing bowl—it all sparks joy.
We embrace this period of renewal with some truly inspired recipe

features. From a cheesy recipe roundup to a buttery Parker House roll
revamp, this issue offers plenty of comfort food. On the sweeter side of
things, we’ve got a mega-meringue tutorial, free-form desserts, and a
Four Ways with Strawberries collection that will have you prepared for
berry season.
It’s my great pleasure to welcome back some beloved bakers to the
pages of Bake from Scratch. First, we have Julie Tanous and Jesse Tyler
Ferguson premiering their new cookbook, Food Between Friends. We’ve
been documenting this dynamic duo since the beginning, publishing their
first food feature in our Holiday 2016 issue. In a fond callback to that
feature, we are showcasing Jesse’s Biscochito Cookie Bars, a bar version
of his favorite cookie that we ran all those years ago. Julie’s recipe for
Sweet & Sticky Orange Cardamom Rolls is also near and dear to my
heart. The recipe is based off of one of Julie’s and my favorite restaurants
in Cullman, Alabama, All Steak, and I had the pleasure to test it for the
cookbook. The other returning star to our magazine: Dolester Miles, the
James Beard Award-Winning pastry chef behind Birmingham, Alabama,
restaurants Chez Fonfon, Bottega, and Highlands Bar and Grill. Dolester
shares her renowned Coconut Pecan Cake recipe for our Pudding Cake’s
feature (page 59). In fact, her brilliant cake inspired our cover star, the
Banana Pudding Hummingbird Cake (page 69). I knew I wanted to inject
that pudding filling formula into my favorite tropical cake.
I’d be remiss not to share another amazing milestone. This March, we will
be releasing our fifth cookbook, Bake from Scratch: Volume Five. Christened
with a gorgeous gold spine and showcasing some of the beautiful cakes you
can expect to find inside, this is another tome bakers will be proud to have
on their shelf. Get ready for one of your sweetest springs yet.
Happy baking,
Brian Hart Hoffman

Editor-in-Chief
Visit bakefromscratch.com
and follow us for daily baking inspiration.
Bake from Scratch The Crumb @thebakefeed

ADVERTISING
HEILALA VANILLA PUDDING CAKE

WITH MASCARPONE BUTTERCREAM
This luscious layer cake gets its divine texture from a silky pudding filling while the epic vanilla flavor comes from a double dose of
Heilala Vanilla. Heilala Pure Vanilla Bean Paste speckles the cake batter, pudding, mascarpone frosting, and simple syrup. Then Heilala
Pure Vanilla Sugar bumps up the depth of flavor in the cake crumb and adds crunchy texture to the exterior of the cake.
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 5. Level cooled cake layers, if necessary; 2 teaspoons (12 grams) Heilala Pure
cut each layer in half crosswise. Place Vanilla Bean Paste
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, 1 cake layer on a serving plate or cake ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
softened turntable. Brush layer with 2 tablespoons 16 ounces (454 grams) mascarpone
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar (33 grams) Vanilla Simple Syrup. Using cheese, softened (see Notes)
½ cup (100 grams) Heilala Pure Vanilla a small offset spatula, spread ¼ cup
Sugar (48 grams) Vanilla Bean Mascarpone 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
4 large eggs (200 grams), room Buttercream evenly over cake layer. Spoon the paddle attachment, beat butter at
temperature 1 cup (192 grams) buttercream into a pastry medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute,
1 teaspoon (6 grams) Heilala Pure bag, and cut a ½-inch opening in tip; pipe a stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer
Vanilla Bean Paste ½-inch tall border of buttercream around
3 cups (375 grams) unbleached cake flour edge of cake layer. Using a small offset
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder spatula, spread 1 cup (272 grams) Vanilla
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt Pudding in an even layer within piped border.
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room Repeat procedure twice. Top cake with
temperature remaining layer, cut side down, and brush
Vanilla Simple Syrup (recipe follows) with remaining 2 tablespoons (33 grams)
Vanilla Bean Mascarpone Buttercream Vanilla Simple Syrup. Using a large offset
(recipe follows) spatula, spread a thin layer of buttercream on
Vanilla Pudding (recipe follows) top and sides of cake to create crumb coat.
Garnish: Heilala Pure Vanilla Sugar Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
6. Spread remaining Vanilla Bean
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray Mascarpone Buttercream on top
2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking and sides of cake. Using a small
spray with flour. offset spatula, texture sides and
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with swirl top as desired. Garnish with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and vanilla sugar, if desired.
sugars at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. VANILLA SIMPLE SYRUP
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after Makes about ½ cup
each addition. Beat in vanilla bean paste.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low ⅓ cup (80 grams) water
speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter ½ teaspoon (3 grams) Heilala Pure
mixture alternately with milk, beginning and Vanilla Bean Paste
ending with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition. Divide batter 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and
evenly between prepared pans (about ⅓ cup (80 grams) water over medium heat
712 grams each), smoothing tops with a just until sugar dissolves. Remove from
small offset spatula. Tap pans on a kitchen heat; stir in vanilla bean paste. Let cool
towel-lined counter several times to settle completely before using.
batter and release any air bubbles; smooth
tops again, if necessary. VANILLA BEAN MASCARPONE BUTTERCREAM
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in Makes about 7 cups
center comes out clean, 28 to 38 minutes.
Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Run a knife 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter,
around pans to loosen edges of cake layers; softened (see Notes)
remove from pans, and let cool completely 4 cups (480 grams) confectioners’ sugar
on wire racks. 4 teaspoons (20 grams) heavy whipping
cream
on low speed, gradually add confectioners’ Some brands of mascarpone blend better 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk over
sugar, beating just until combined. Beat in into this buttercream than others. If yours is medium heat until steaming. (Do not boil.)
cream, vanilla bean paste, and salt; increase breaking instead of smoothly mixing in, you 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
mixer speed to medium, and beat until may need to try a different brand. cornstarch, flour, and salt. Whisk in egg
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape yolks until well combined. (Mixture will
sides of bowl. Fold in mascarpone by hand VANILLA PUDDING be very thick.) Gradually whisk in half of
just until combined. (Do not overmix; Makes about 3 cups warm milk. Pour sugar mixture into warm
mascarpone will start to break down.) Use milk in pan. Bring to a boil over medium
immediately. 2⅔ cups (640 grams) whole milk heat, whisking constantly. Cook, whisking
⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar constantly, until thickened, mixture no
Notes: For best results, it’s important 3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch longer tastes starchy, and an instant-read
that the butter and mascarpone for this 4 teaspoons (12 grams) all-purpose flour thermometer registers 185°F (85°C), 3 to
buttercream are both softened and at about ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in butter
the same temperature. An instant-read 6 large egg yolks (112 grams) in two additions; stir in vanilla bean paste.
thermometer inserted into the center of each ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 4. Pour and press mixture through a fine-
is an easy way to gauge when they’re ready to and softened mesh sieve into prepared dish or bowl;
go. Our butter and mascarpone were at about 1 teaspoon (6 grams) Heilala Pure smooth into a thin layer. Cover with a piece
65°F (18°C). Try to handle the buttercream Vanilla Bean Paste of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto
as minimally as possible; overworking it on surface of pudding to prevent a skin from
your cake could cause the mascarpone to 1. Line a medium shallow baking dish or forming. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled,
start breaking down. bowl with plastic wrap; place a fine-mesh 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Stir chilled filling
sieve inside. until softened and smooth before using.
RECIPE INDEX
Our Guide to Bring on the Cheese: The
Master Meringue Cheesiest Breadsticks and More
on the cover
Banana Pudding FROM SCRATCH ® BANANA PUDDING
HUMMINGBIRD LAYER CAKE
BARS AND COOKIES Chocolate Pudding Cake 68 page 69
Biscochito Cookie Bars 32 Coconut Pecan Cake 64

Hummingbird Cake
page 69
60 Recipes for
Sweet Spring
Baking
PuDdInG
Cheese Thyme Cookies 98 Darina Allen’s Simnel Cake 102 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
PoWeR
Why a
Pudding Layer
Chocolate-Orange-Pistachio Forgotten Orange Cream Cake 65 STEPHANIE Makes the
Best Cakes
WELBOURNE STEELE
Cookies 112 Strawberry and Almond Buttermilk RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY Strawberries
4 Ways: Baked,
Roasted, Fresh,
French Meringue Kisses 40 Cake 49 TRICIA MANZANERO Macerated
FOOD STYLING BY
Italian Meringue Kisses 42 Vanilla Pudding Cake with Mascarpone MEGAN LANKFORD FEATURING
Fast Fix: The Forgotten Cookies You’ll Never Forget
Swiss Meringue Kisses 41 Buttercream 11 STYLING BY Freeform Baking: Don’t Miss the Black Forest Pavlova
The Fastest Puff Pastry Recipe Ever
SIDNEY BRAGIEL
BREADS FROSTINGS, FILLINGS,

Basil Sour Cream Scones with Macerated GARNISHES, AND GLAZES
Strawberries 48 Balsamic-Roasted Strawberries 52 Vanilla Pudding 12
Cheese Breadsticks 95 Chocolate Glaze 104 Vanilla Simple Syrup 11
Chocolate Scones 104 Chocolate Pastry Cream 57 Whipped Cream 57
Cream Cheese Bread with Cinnamon Chocolate Pudding 68
Sugar 57 Chocolate-Hazelnut Filling 77 MISCELLANEOUS
Dutch Oven Bread 6 Coconut Filling 64 Black Forest Pavlova 57
Ensaymadas 109 Creamy Buttermilk Frosting 65 Panna Cotta with Balsamic-Roasted
Folar das Rosas 25 Crème Anglaise 64 Strawberries 52
Honey-Orange Parker House Rolls 88 Creme de Ovos Com Côco 26 Strawberry Eton Mess Roulade 45
Parker House Rolls 85 Frangipane 58 Whiskey Marmalade Hot Bread & Butter
Parker House Round Rolls 87 Lemon Glaze 76 Pudding 106
Parker House Square Rolls 87 Orange Cream Filling 65
Parmesan-Herb Buttermilk Bread 98 Pickled Red Onion 78 PASTRIES, PIES, AND TARTS
Sour Cream Fantails 15 Sauteéd Spinach 97 Chocolate-Hazelnut Bear Claws 77
Spinach Khachapuris 97 Silky Chocolate Frosting 68 Lemon-Blueberry Pastry Rolls 76
Sweet & Sticky Orange Cardamom Simple Syrup 65 Peach Frangipane Galette 58
Rolls 31 Sugary Browned Butter Topping 110 Smoked Salmon-Asparagus Tarts 77
Vanilla Bean Mascarpone Buttercream 11 Sour Cream Galette Dough 58
CAKES Vanilla Cream Filling 70
Banana Pudding Hummingbird Cake 69 Vanilla Italian Buttercream 69
resources
Hot from the Oven
Organic Unbleached Unpaper Towels
photography submitted by Tiny Yellow
Bungalow
Beeswax Food Wrap photography
submitted by Abeego
Jew-ish cover photography submitted

The Zero-Waste Chef cover
photography submitted by Avery/
Penguin Random House
Page 17-18 Fabric Bowl Cover and Bread Bag by Houghton-Mifflin Harcourt An Irish Easter
Handcrafted French Rolling Pins photography submitted by Eco Girl Page 102
photography submitted by The Wooden Shop Zoë Bakes Cakes cover photography Simnel Cake photo courtesy of Ballymaloe
Palate submitted by Ten Speed Press/Penguin Cookery School
Super Flour photography submitted by Random House Page 104
Upcycled Denim Apron photography Rise Products Co Chocolate Scones photo by Gemma
submitted by Wild Minimalist Southern Ground cover photography Stafford
Recycled Paper Birthday Card submitted by Ten Speed Press/Penguin
photography submitted by Nourishing Random House Page 106
Sourdough Proofing Baskets Bread pudding photo by Shane Smith
photography submitted by Flourside Notes
ADVERTISING
;7=:+:-)5.)6<)14;
A miniature pull-apart dream, these fantails pack tangy sour cream and bright green onion flavor in spades.
Delicately tender, our base dough gets a fluffy boost from Platinum® Yeast from Red Star® before
being brushed with melted butter and sandwiched into its classic fantail shape.
Makes 12 rolls ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) garlic powder, and 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough
baking soda at low speed until combined. in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover
3¼ to 3½ cups (406 to 437 grams) 2. In a medium saucepan, heat ¾ cup and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
all-purpose flour, divided (180 grams) water, sour cream, and (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 30 to
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter over 45 minutes.
sugar medium-low heat, stirring frequently, 5. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a
1 tablespoon (9 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon until butter is melted and an instant-read 12-cup muffin pan with cooking spray.
kosher salt, divided thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) 6. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm sour cream remaining 5 tablespoons (70 grams) butter
Platinum Yeast mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium- on high in 10-second intervals until melted.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) garlic powder, low speed until combined, about 1 minute, 7. Punch down dough; cover and let stand
divided stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With for 10 minutes. Divide dough in half,
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda mixer on low speed, gradually add 2¼ cups covering one portion with plastic wrap. On
¾ cup (180 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (281 grams) flour and ½ cup (55 grams) a lightly floured surface, roll uncovered half
(15 grams) water, divided green onion, beating just until combined into a 12-inch square. Brush with
½ cup (120 grams) sour cream and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted butter.
8 tablespoons (112 grams) unsalted 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Using a pizza cutter, cut dough into
butter, cubed and divided Beat at low speed until a soft, somewhat 12 (6x2-inch) strips. Stack 6 strips, butter
½ cup (55 grams) plus 1 tablespoon sticky dough forms, 10 to 12 minutes, side up; repeat with remaining 6 strips to
(7 grams) finely chopped green onion, stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough create a separate stack. Using a floured
divided hook; add up to remaining ¼ cup (31 grams) serrated knife, cut each stack crosswise
1 large egg (50 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if into 3 (2-inch) squares. Place each square
dough is too sticky. (Dough will mostly pull stack, layered side up, in prepared muffin
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the away from sides of bowl and should pass the cups. Repeat procedure with remaining
paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (125 grams) windowpane test; see Note.) Turn out dough dough and 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted
flour, sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 grams) salt, yeast, onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into butter. Slightly separate layers of each
a smooth round. fantail. Cover loosely with plastic wrap,
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°F/24°C) until dough fills cups, 15 to
25 minutes.
8. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
Brush tops of dough with egg wash.
9. Bake until lightly golden, 12 to 15 minutes.
10. Add remaining 1 tablespoon (7 grams)
green onion, remaining ½ teaspoon
(1.5 grams) garlic powder, and remaining
¼ teaspoon salt to remaining melted butter,
stirring until combined. Carefully remove
fantails from pan; brush with butter mixture.
Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.
Note: To use the windowpane test to check

dough for proper gluten development, lightly
flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small
piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
from the center. If the dough is ready, you
will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
and test again.
hot from the oven
SUSTAINABLE BAKING
[ONE GRAIN AT A TIME]
FOR EARTH DAY THIS YEAR, WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE MOST SUSTAINABLE BAKING PRODUCTS,
FROM ECO-FRIENDLY WAXED CLOTHS TO ORGANIC UNBLEACHED UNPAPER TOWELS.
THIS IS BAKING THAT YOUR MOTHER (EARTH) WOULD BE PROUD OF.
KITCHEN SWITCHES A RISE ABOVE

Our friends at Flourside aim to
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Available at flourside.com,
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UNPAPER YOUR TOWELS

JUST ROLL WITH IT T Yellow Bungalow uses highly
Tiny
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These handcrafted French rolling pins from the Wooden Palate friendly Unpaper Towels. The fabric is organic
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they are definitely usable art. Each pin is food-safe and unique, Consider it a nice, Earth-friendly substitute to paper towels.
varying in color and grain.
Available at tinyyellowbungalow.com, $15.99
Available at thewoodenpalate.com, $50
THIS DUO HAS YOU

BLUE JEAN BABY COVERED
This simple yet chic apron from Crafted from a linen
Wild Minimalist is the perfect blend, this extra-large
uniform for the home baker. bowl cover is perfect for
Made from upcycled 100% cotton proofing dough, and the
denim fabric, this waist apron is as accompanying bread bag
beautiful as it is functional. With stores your bread after it’s
three large pockets, you can store baked. This gorgeous duo is
a whisk, some measuring spoons, a another way to turn your kitchen into an eco-conscious haven—just
ruler . . . whatever your baking endeavor requires! throw them in the wash when you need to!
Available at wildminimalist.com, $29.99 Available at ecogirlshop.com, $24
17 bake from scratch
RISING TO THE OCCASION WE BROUGHT YOU FLOURS
The team at Rise Products work closely with Nourishing Notes celebrates food
the craft beer network in New York City, giving by displaying their creativity and
a second life to highly nutritious and extremely artwork on recycled stationary. Started
tasty spent grain from the brewing process. by husband-and-wife team Andy
RISE Super Flour is made from barley that has Schwegler and Julie Morelli in 2007,
gone through the brewing process and retains these printed goods are for the food-
the malty aroma of the brew. The grain is obsessed. This baking-inspired birthday
protein-rich and high in fiber and packs fabulous flavor. card is just too good, and with recycled
paper as a medium, we appreciate the
Available at riseproducts.co, $60 environmental commitment.
Available at nourishingnotes.com, $5
PLASTIC-FREE: THAT’S A WRAP!

We won’t argue that plastic wrap isn’t convenient and makes cleaning a cinch, but it is also single-use and rarely
recycled. Instead, give Beeswax Food Wrap from Package Free a try. Perfect for covering bowls, wrapping pie
dough, or keeping bread fresh, these wraps are made with beeswax, tree resin, and organic jojoba oil infused into
a hemp and organic cotton cloth. The best part? Just wash with soap and cold water and reuse.
Available at packagefreeshop.com, $18, vegan alternative available
TRENDING TOMES GOOD GRAIN

Southern Ground: Reclaiming Flavor
through Stone Milled Flour (Ten
JEWISH HOME-BAKED Speed Press, 2021) by Jennifer
HERITAGE Lapidus is a highly curated collection
When you think of Jewish baking, you of recipes from 20 acclaimed craft
may envision challah, maybe a babka if bakeries in the South, showcasing
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cookbook, Jew-ish: Reinventing Recipes baking with local ingredients. With
from a Modern Mensch (Houghton Mifflin detailed profiles on the top Southern bakers and 80 recipes
Harcourt, 2021), Jewish food can be arranged by grain, this is a love story to Southern baking and a
so much more. From hybrid desserts call for home bakers to understand the source and makeup of the
like Macaroon Brownies to elevated yet most important of ingredients: flour.
approachable classics like Jake’s Perfect
Challah, Jew-ish is a brilliant collection of recipes. Available at your local bookstore or online on April 13, $32.50
Available at your local bookstore or online on March 9, $30

BAKING OUR FUTURE
Anne-Marie Bonneau has lived nearly a
THE CAKE COMPOSITION decade with as little plastic, food waste,
In Zoë Bakes Cakes: Everything You Need and stuff as possible. She’s teaching
to Know to Make Your Favorite Layers, people that while one person eliminating
Bundts, Loaves, and More (Ten Speed all their waste is great, if thousands of
Press, 2021), cake master Zoë François people do merely 20% better, it will
wants you to toss the box mix aside so have a much bigger impact on the
she can show you made-from-scratch planet. From Mexican Hot Chocolate
recipes that are wholesome and simple Bread Pudding to homemade ricotta in
to make. With more than 100 easy-to- a savory galette, The Zero-Waste Chef:
use recipes, everyone can get gorgeous Plant-Forward Recipes and Tips for a Sustainable Kitchen and Planet
confections on the table to mark any (Avery, 2021) provides delicious recipes and an attainable vision of a
occasion, big or small. zero-waste kitchen.
Available at your local bookstore or online on March 16, $30 Available at your local bookstore or online on April 13, $25

baker spotlight
ALON SHAYA:
RECIPES LOST AND FOUND
IN MANY FAMILIES, A WELL-LOVED COOKBOOK PASSED DOWN FROM ONE
GENERATION TO THE NEXT HOLDS MORE THAN JUST RECIPES. WORKING
SIDE-BY-SIDE WITH HOLOCAUST SURVIVOR STEVEN FENVES, ALON SHAYA,
AWARD-WINNING CHEF AND FOUNDER OF POMEGRANATE HOSPITALITY IN PHOTO CREDITS: STEVEN FENVES FAMILY PHOTO
AND RECIPE BOOKS:UNITED STATES
NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, IS LEADING A PROJECT TO RESTORE CHERISHED HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM,
COURTESY OF STEVEN J. FENVES
WALNUT CREAM CAKE BY ALON SHAYA
FAMILY RECIPES HOUSED IN THE U.S. HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM. ALON SHAYA PORTRAIT BY RUSH JAGOE
to the archive room to view recipes rescued subsequently sink down some while cooling.
during the Holocaust. I was fascinated reading What you are left with is a heavy and nutty
these recipes written in concentration camps. cake texture, which is then filled with a
People were risking their lives to memorialize sweet and rich chocolate walnut filling.
food memories on any scraps of paper they A walnut buttercream finishes the cake,
could get their hands on—which included making a delicious, walnut-laden dessert.
stolen bomb receipts. I was so emotionally The Old-World flavor of the cake comes
struck seeing that even in the most horrible from a Hungarian tradition to use walnuts
situations, food can provide a glimpse of hope in any way possible.
or a moment of comfort. Years later, my wife
The Fenyves family cookbook, prepared by and I embarked on a trip to the Holocaust
mother Klara Fenyves, was a very special Memorial Museum in D.C. to search for
book. Members of the Fenyves family, recipes lost, and on that trip, we discovered
thrust into wartime, were forced to leave Steven Fenves’s family cookbook. We were
their apartment in Yugoslavia in 1944. The able to form a direct relationship with Mr.
Fenyves family cook, Maris, saved their Fenves, and he joined me in translating the
prized cookbook from looters, returning recipes from Hungarian to English. It has been
the heirloom to the surviving family so important for me to bring these flavors to
members after the war. Klara—a victim Steven, who hasn’t taste them since 1944.
of a concentration camp—would not see
this book again, but the cookbook would
find its way back into the hands of her son,
Steven Fenves, who shared the cherished What does recreating recipes like this cake
book with the United States Holocaust mean to you?
Memorial Museum in Washington, D.C. AS: I think that these recipes need to
Thanks to a project inspired by Alon Shaya, be saved and restored. By honoring
award-winning chef, cookbook author, and the accounts and memories in these
founder of Pomegranate Hospitality, these cookbooks, we can connect generations to
recipes are coming alive again for the world come with history in a positive way. History
to see. will continue to recount the terrible details
that come from that time, but I believe
How did you first hear about Steven that connecting people to the Holocaust
Fenves’s family cookbook? Tell us about the Fenyves family’s Walnut in a way that brings joy, like recreating a
Alon Shaya: In 2011, we took a trip to Cream Cake. recipe and sitting around the table and
Israel as a part of a culinary tour, and one AS: A flour-free cake, whipped egg whites eating that recipe, is a very important way
of the most impactful stops we made allow the crumb to soufflé up while baking, for us to be thinking of the Holocaust. This
was Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust but because all of the ground walnuts brings honor to those who went through
Remembrance Center. We were invited and chocolate in the cake, the layers this, showcasing the rich and beautiful lives
they led before the Holocaust and their
Your donations allow recipe restorations like this to continue. Visit ushmm.org to donate, and find story of loss and survival. •
the restored recipe for the Walnut Cream Cake at bakefromscratch.com.

FROM SCRATCH
®
Announcing our 2021
BAKING
RETREATS
SAVE THE DATE!
It’s time to take an adventure the Bake from Scratch way.
Our 2021 baking retreats will satisfy the wanderlust cravings

of the most intrepid bakers. You’ll learn top tips for baking
beautiful Bundt cakes in Minneapolis, Minnesota, the
hometown of Nordic Ware; brush up on the basics of British
baking in London; and master French holiday classics in Paris.
A DELICIOUS PREVIEW OF OUR RETREATS

LONDON AND IRELAND
LANCASHIRE, ENGLAND IRISH BAKING
BRITISH BAKING Dates to be announced soon!

Dates to be announced soon!
PARIS, FRANCE
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA FRENCH HOLIDAY BAKING
BUNDT CAKE BAKING DECEMBER 3–8 and
Dates to be announced soon! DECEMBER 8–12
All you need to do is pack your bags—the aprons will be waiting for you.
For all of the delicious details on these retreats and to register, go to bakefromscratch.com/baking-retreats,
and to stay up to date on all our baking retreat announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
from the pantry
SALT
SECOND TO WATER, SALT IS THE MOST UBIQUITOUS INGREDIENT IN COOKING.
BUT HOW MUCH DO YOU REALLY KNOW ABOUT THIS PANTRY ESSENTIAL?
BY SANDI SHRIVER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAC JAMIESON / STYLING BY LILY SIMPSON
A
s far as taste is concerned, salt (sodium chloride) is
the proverbial Goldilocks of baked goods. Too little
and treats taste flat. Too much and they are deemed
inedible. Just right and our taste receptors ignite. Besides an
intense salty taste on its own, salt interacts with the other
basic tastes, acting as both the crescendo and decrescendo
of the flavor concert. Specifically, salt can enhance
sweetness, mask bitterness, and complement umami (or
savoriness). Think of the ever-so-popular salted caramel,
which harnesses this combo to change the perception of
sweetness, or the iconic sprinkling of flaked sea salt on dark
chocolate that causes bitterness to magically abate. In other
words, without salt, all baking becomes one-note.
The relationship that salt has to flavor may be a more

recognizable concept, but salt also plays several other roles
in baking. Adding salt to yeasted doughs, such as in our
Cream Cheese Bread with Cinnamon Sugar on page 57,
slows the action of the yeast. Without salt, yeast metabolizes
sugars and creates carbon dioxide more rapidly, potentially
overstretching gluten strands and diminishing flavor
development. This could lead to flat loaves that lack depth
of flavor. Salt also interacts with flour proteins, allowing for
a stronger dough (making salt a dough strengthener), which
creates height and lightness in bread.
Salt also reacts with proteins in egg whites, but unlike with
flour proteins, it does not have a strengthening effect. For
The Essential . . . Meringue (page 33), we added a small
amount of salt to our meringues for one chief reason:
to perfectly round out the flavor. But for the meringue
construction, adding salt is counterintuitive. Salt molecules
bind with egg proteins on the molecular level, making it more
difficult to form the desired airy structure. Ultimately, the
addition of cream of tartar counteracts this phenomenon
and the small amount of salt has minimal impact on the
meringue. The taste trade-off is worth every tiny grain.
Lastly, like sugar, salt is hygroscopic, drawing in moisture

from the atmosphere and allowing our baked goods to
stay moist for longer. The concept of salt’s ability to pull
in moisture is demonstrated in saltshakers that are filled
like monochromatic kaleidoscopes with crystalline salt and
oval-shaped rice. The owner of the shaker is trying to combat
wet salt by using rice to soak up moisture. The hygroscopic
nature of salt also aids in preservation and increases shelf life
by inhibiting microbial growth.
Even with its pervasiveness in cooking, the variety of salt available sweet bread on page 25 uses a fine-grain sea salt that dissolves
is often overlooked. Next time you visit the spice aisle of the readily in the dough. As for visual differences between sea salts,
grocery store, count the salt options present—the number may a water purification process creates bright white Maldon Sea Salt
surprise you. From refined salts and mineral-rich salts to flavored Flakes, whereas others, like sel gris (gray salt), contain minerals
salts and salts with different textures and colors, there are endless that lend unique colors and flavors.
options for the home baker to choose from.
Both sea salt flakes and gray salt are in a category called “finishing
The most familiar option is table salt, which is mined from salts,” meaning they have the capacity to add visual appeal,
underground salt deposits and then highly processed to eliminate dynamic flavor, and texture to baked goods after they have been
minerals. Additives such as the anticaking agents sodium prepared. They tend to have a higher cost and are used in much
ferrocyanide or calcium silicate are often added to table salt in an smaller quantities. Consider the Parker House Rolls on page 85,
attempt to combat the hygroscopic nature within the package. which are brushed with melted butter and garnished with flaked
A public health concern raised in the 1920s also kicked off the sea salt, combining a soft fluffy bread with a notable salty crunch.
addition of potassium iodide to some table salts, which helped Other finishing-style salts include the beautiful quartz-like shades
alleviate the widespread issue of iodine-deficiency. Though most of pink that Himalayan salt has to offer. Mined from the Khewra
people may not be able to detect anticaking agents, the iodine Salt Mine in the Punjab region of Pakistan, the brilliant color is
component of iodized table salt tends to have a characteristic a result of 84 different trace elements and minerals (especially
bitter taste, and for baking, an additive-free form is often magnesium and iron). Another warm-hued salt, alaea sea salt is
recommended. harvested near the shores of the island of Kaua‘i in Hawaii. The
Hanapepe Salt Ponds have been used since ancient times, and
When it comes to salt as an ingredient in baking, kosher salt reigns the sea salt derived there gets its brick red color from a Hawaiian
supreme due to its consistent purity and clean taste. This form is volcanic, iron-rich clay called ‘alaea, containing more than 80
the choice in most of our recipes. We are now led to an interesting different minerals.
question: is kosher salt kosher? Not necessarily. There are some
salts that are kosher-certified, but kosher salt originally gained its The last finishing salt we will consider here has an alluring name:
moniker for a common use. The salt crystal size and purity were fleur de sel. As it translates, this salt is considered the “flower of
ideal for the Jewish religious practice of dry-brining meats, known the sea,” which some say refers to the visual structure of the salt,
as koshering, but the salt itself was not manufactured under any whereas others believe the name refers to the aroma of violets
religious guidelines. released as the salt dries. Like the last two salts mentioned, fleur de
sel may also carry a pinkish hue, but unlike the colors created by
In the North American market, we find two major brands of kosher minerals, a microalgae called Dunaliella salina lends the pink color.
salt: Morton Salt and Diamond Crystal. Morton Salt kosher salt Most fleur de sel is off-white or slightly gray, however. Though the
contains an anticaking agent and has a flat structure created by a origin is strongly guarded in Brittany, France, you can now find its
process during which the salt is rolled. Diamond Crystal kosher salt production in Spain, Portugal, Mexico, Brazil, and Canada. Fleur
curtails additives and uses a process they call “craft evaporation” de sel retains a wet, almost sticky feel, and some say the taste is
for its kosher salt, which creates unique, hollow, multifaceted salt light and superior.
crystals. This hollow structure dissolves easily and can be crushed
between fingers but also reduces its weight per volume. This Although we have reviewed several salts and their capabilities,
concept is important to remember when following recipes, as salt there are still many types and regions we have left unexplored.
weight is dependent on variety and brand. Because 1 teaspoon of With the medley of options from near and far and from the
salt can vary greatly by weight, relying on a kitchen scale for the mountains to the sea, salt is not only a base ingredient for baking
gram measure is recommended to achieve the appropriate amount but a game changer. Whether you are looking to enhance flavor,
of salt (and the perfect flavor). promote a better yeast-leavened dough, or create an eye-catching
presentation, there is an ocean of possibility with salt.
Another type of salt, sea salt, has had a resurgence in popularity
in baking throughout the years. Yet, if you were to be quite literal,
all salt comes from the sea. Salt that is mined from the land, like
table salt and kosher salt, is from a prehistoric sea—a sea that BAKE WITH SALT In this issue, don’t miss:
has long come and gone, millions of years past. The process of
Smoked Salmon-Asparagus Tarts, Orange Cream Cake, page 65
evaporating seawater, leaving behind salt solids and minerals, brings page 77
us commercial sea salt. Ranging in size, color, and texture, sea salt Spinach Khachapuris, page 97 •
Forgotten Cookies, page 111
is versatile in nature. Jeremiah Duarte Bills’s traditional Portuguese
HAWAIIAN
SEA SALT
TABLE SALT
HIMALAYAN
SALT
FLEUR DE SEL
SEL GRIS
MALDON
UNREFINED SEA SALT
FLAKED FLAKES
SEA SALT
MORTON KOSHER
SALT
COURSE
HIMALAYAN SALT DIAMOND CRYSTAL
KOSHER SALT
retro redo
FOLAR DAS ROSAS

JEREMIAH DUARTE BILLS, THE BAKER BEHIND THE PODCAST FLOUR HOUR
AND THE BLOG JEREMIAH BAKES, REIMAGINES A PORTUGUESE CLASSIC
SWEET BREAD JUST IN TIME FOR EASTER
BY JEREMIAH DUARTE BILLS
THE REDO
FOLAR DAS ROSAS
(EASTER BREAD OF ROSES)
Makes 1 (8-inch) round loaf
In honor of my grandmother and mother,

I created Folar das Rosas (Easter Bread of
Roses). I combined our sweet bread recipe with
a Portuguese cake called bolo-rosas, meaning
“rose cake.” It is filled with creme de ovos, a
slightly richer version of Portugal’s ubiquitous
doce de ovos (an egg yolk-based cream similar
to pastry cream). The addition of coconut brings
to mind another Portuguese pastry classic called
pão de deus, or bread of god. This rich coconut
filling rolled inside the bread creates seven
heavenly rose-like swirls. Boa Páscoa!
Sponge:
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) instant yeast
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (15 grams) warm water
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
Dough:
3 tablespoons (45 grams) whole milk
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams)
granulated sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams)
1 tablespoon (3 grams) lemon zest
½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt
1¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon (227 grams)
unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground mace or
nutmeg
4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted
butter, melted
I
was 23 when I visited the Azores islands of Portugal for the first time. My grandmother Maxine called me brave for going to the remote
archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. I reminded her it was brave of her parents and all of my maternal great-grandparents to
immigrate to the United States. I tried to explain that the islands were calling me. It was an inexplicable longing—in Portuguese, it’s called
saudade—a longing that began with the stories she would weave for me as a child, stories of our family and the beautiful volcanic islands they left.
It surfaced the strongest in the desire to make and eat bread. Bread is like a religion in our family. But not just any bread.
Like most immigrant families, as the generations progress, many recipes and family traditions are lost. Thankfully, my grandmother and mother
have preserved the tradition of pão doce (sweet bread), which we call massa or massa sovada, meaning “beaten dough.” It’s a rich sweet dough made
with dozens of eggs, sugar, butter, lemon zest, and spices like nutmeg and cinnamon. It’s the smell of Easter and the Festas do Espírito Santo (Holy
Ghost Festivals). During Easter, my mom will create folares, which are little sweet bread “nests” complete with a hard-cooked egg inside. She still
makes them for me and my cousins each year. In Portugal, it is often tradition to receive a folar from your godparents. Depending on the region,
folares can range from savory to sweet. Many, like my mother’s, include hard-cooked eggs to resemble nests, and others are layered or rolled with
sweet fillings.
The symbol of the rose has followed me throughout my life. I was born in a small town in Northern California called Roseville, and my grandmother
had the surname Da Rosa before marrying. It is from the Da Rosa branch of the family tree that I am told I inherited my love of sweets.
Creme de Ovos com Côco (recipe follows) 4 to 5 times around bowl after 30 minutes. tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
1 large egg white (30 grams) 6. Butter and flour a tall-sided 8-inch and test again.
1 teaspoon (5 grams) water round cake pan. Line bottom of pan with
Pinch fine sea salt parchment paper. CREME DE OVOS COM CÔCO
7. On a heavily floured surface, roll dough Makes about 1 cup
1. For sponge: In a small bowl, stir together into a 16x9-inch rectangle. Carefully
yeast, sugar, and flour. Add 1 tablespoon spread Creme de Ovos com Côco onto ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
(15 grams) warm water, stirring until dough. Starting with one long side, roll up ¼ cup (60 grams) water
combined. dough, jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal. 1 cinnamon stick
2. For dough: In small microwave-safe Gently stretch to about 17½ inches long. 3 large egg yolks (56 grams)
bowl, heat milk on high until an instant- Cut log into 7 (2½-inch) slices. Place 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) all-purpose flour
read thermometer registers 165°F (74°C), 1 slice, cut side up, in center of prepared 1 teaspoon (1 gram) lemon zest
about 30 seconds. pan; place remaining 6 slices, cut side up, Pinch fine sea salt
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with around center slice. Cover and let rise 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
the whisk attachment, beat sugar, eggs, in a hot, draft-free place (90°F/32°C ½ cup (42 grams) unsweetened flaked
lemon zest, and ½ teaspoon (3 grams) salt to 100°F/38°C) until slightly more than coconut
at high speed until light, 1 to 2 minutes. doubled in size, 1½ to 2½ hours.
With mixer on low speed, add warm milk, 8. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). 1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, ¼ cup
beating until combined. Add sponge, and 9. In a small bowl, whisk together egg (60 grams) water, and cinnamon stick. Bring
beat until combined. white, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water, and salt. to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking
4. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Lightly brush surface of dough with egg until sugar dissolves. (Do not whisk once
Add flour and mace, and beat at medium- wash. mixture starts to boil.) Remove from heat.
low speed until combined, about 2 minutes. 10. Bake until an instant-read Let cool slightly.
With mixer on low speed, add 1 tablespoon thermometer inserted in center registers 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg
(14 grams) melted butter; increase mixer 180°F (82°C) and 190°F (88°C), 35 to yolks, flour, lemon zest, and salt. Slowly
speed to medium, and beat until well 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. whisk in sugar mixture. Return mixture to
combined. Repeat procedure for remaining Remove from pan, and let cool completely saucepan, and cook over medium-low to
3 tablespoons (42 grams) melted butter. on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature. medium heat, whisking constantly, until
Beat at medium speed for 8 to 10 minutes. Store, covered, at room temperature. thickened and bubbles form around edges
(Dough should be wet and sticky.) Check of pan. (Do not boil.) Cook for 1 minute.
dough for proper gluten development using Note: To use the windowpane test to check Remove from heat, and carefully discard
the windowpane test. (See Note.) dough for proper gluten development, lightly cinnamon stick. Stir in butter; stir in coconut.
5. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small Cover and let cool for 30 to 45 minutes. •
bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
rise in a hot, draft-free place (90°F/32°C from the center. If the dough is ready, you
to 100°F/38°C) until doubled in size, 1½ to will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
2½ hours, stretching and folding dough translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
baker pro²le

BAKING BETWEEN
FRIENDS
JULIE TANOUS AND JESSE TYLER FERGUSON OFFER AN INSIDE LOOK
AT THEIR NEW COOKBOOK, FOOD BETWEEN FRIENDS, A LOVE LETTER TO
BAKING, COCKTAILS, AND, OF COURSE, THEIR FRIENDSHIP
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO
T
here are friends, and then there are soul mates. Your
spiritual counterpoint can be anyone, from your mother
to your romantic partner. Julie Tanous and Jesse Tyler
Ferguson found their profound match in the kitchen. Since
meeting at a dinner party in 2013, the two have founded a
blog, Julie & Jesse Cook, and published numerous recipes in
magazines (including a feature in the Bake from Scratch
Holiday 2016 issue). Now, the talented twosome are releasing
their first cookbook, Food Between Friends (Clarkson Potter,
2021), the culmination of many years spent together in and
out of the kitchen. We sat them down for an in-depth chat
on how they wrote, shot, and edited a cookbook—let alone
maintained their friendship—during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Tell us about the art of collaborating on a cookbook with a friend. of the recipes I’m really proud of is the asparagus and leek
galette. Julie taught me how to perfect my piecrust. I have been
Julie Tanous: You have recipes that reflect my Southern
traumatized by piecrust. Then Julie walked me through the process
background and some that show Jesse’s New Mexico roots and
like I was a five-year-old. She patiently worked with me until I felt
then quite a few that are a hybrid of both. One day Jesse and I
confident enough to make my own savory galette. I made sure
were just reminiscing over things our moms would make for us as
those jewels of pie wisdom from Julie showed up in the cookbook.
snacks after school. Jesse’s mom used to make these hatch green
And, Julie, if you don’t talk about your chocolate cake, I don’t even
chile and cream cheese roll-ups, while my mom would serve me
know what we’re doing this interview for.
pimiento cheese on white bread. Then we looked at each other at
the same time and just knew we had to do a crossover. And that’s Julie: Oh, geez. The cake.
where those hatch green chile and pimiento cheese roll-ups came
Jesse: First off—Julie left this cake to the very last minute. She was
from in our snack chapter, just from two friends talking.
always very confident. She knew exactly what she was going to do.
Jesse Tyler Ferguson: There were certain recipes that we took She kept saying, “It’s not a priority.” Then it came time to make
individual ownership for in testing—we each had our “marching the cake. Julie?
orders.” But for the most part, this book was extremely
Julie: I wanted to make a version of my great-aunt Maddy’s
collaborative. Ideas we pitched changed over time as we considered
chocolate cake, which has this boiled fudge frosting. It’s really
each other’s testing or input. Our constant changes could be a
meant to be poured over cakes. But I had it in my head that I could
little hectic for our publisher. They’d be expecting a recipe for
use it on a two-layer 9-inch cake. It, uh, works, but it’s difficult to
baklava French toast, and we handed them a recipe for roast
use as a frosting. I think I’ve tested this frosting 40 times now. I
chicken instead.
got my mom involved to help. Jesse wouldn’t even try it. He said,
“Just hearing you talk about it, I’m terrified.”
What was it like writing, editing, and photographing a cookbook
in during the COVID-19 pandemic? Jesse: I did try it! After you had finished tweaking it—and it is
delicious.
Jesse: The timing weirdly worked. We had much of the cookbook
developed beforehand, and then with quarantine, we were able to Julie: I’m pretty sure I’ve tweaked it since then, too. Now, the cake
spend a lot more time in the kitchen testing recipes. has this amazing buttercream chocolate frosting—but nothing gets
boiled, I promise.
Julie: And we’ve had a lot of help from family and friends. Brian
[Hart Hoffman] actually helped us with the Sweet & Sticky
BFS: Above all else, what do you hope people get out of the
Orange Cardamom Buns. He offered to test them for us, and
cookbook?
when he gave us feedback, he mentioned a great trick for cutting
the dough with dental floss—and that tip made it into the book! Jesse: What we hoped to capture in the book is what Julie and I
have always treasured about being in the kitchen. Cooking and
Jesse: Most of the photography for the cookbook was done
baking don’t have to be serious or stressful. It can be a fun, casual
remotely in San Francisco, California, where our photographer,
experience. Our photography reflects this—we didn’t plate the
Eva, lives. So, Julie and I were just checking in over Zoom. But, of
food using tweezers. We wanted to show the mess—and joy—of
course, the first day of the shoot was the day my son was due to be
what it is to bake with friends. I hope it’s the cookbook that people
delivered, so I was in the hospital, managing a remote photo shoot
can pull down on a Wednesday night and just make an easy meal
while simultaneously waiting for a baby to come into the world. It
or they can use to create a fancy full-blown dinner party with
was actually a really special time, a nice little distraction from the
homemade cocktails and desserts.
arrival of—well, the rest of my life.
Julie: We set out to write a cookbook, but it became such a
Julie: It was executed perfectly. Jesse would pop on with his little
beautiful story. I keep telling my friends, “Read the words,”
medical hat, decked out in scrubs, with a baby in his arms, and say,
because the stories behind the recipes are funny and sweet and
“Love that shot!”
moving. I hope it brings joy to people to not only make our recipes
but to know the stories behind them.
What are some baked goods—sweet or savory—that you’re
particularly proud of that are in the cookbook?
Jesse: Julie’s definitely the better baker in the arena. But one

¾ teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1½ to 2 tablespoons (22.5 to 30 grams) fresh orange juice
EQUIPMENT
12-cup muffin tin
Paper liners
Nonstick cooking spray
1. Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together

the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and cardamom. In a medium bowl or
large liquid measuring cup, whisk together the milk and orange
juice. Microwave until heated to 100°F (38°C) to 115°F (46°C),
about 20 seconds. Add the 3 tablespoons melted butter and the
egg to the wet ingredients and whisk to combine. Pour the wet
ingredients into the dry ingredients.
2. Fit the hook attachment onto the stand mixer and knead the
dough on medium-low speed until it just comes together,
SWEET & STICKY ORANGE CARDAMOM ROLLS 1 minute. Increase the speed to medium and knead until the dough
Makes 12 rolls is smooth and pulls away from the bottom of the bowl, another
4 to 5 minutes. Remove the dough from the bowl and gently
The All Steak Restaurant—which first opened its doors in 1938—is shape into a ball. Lightly grease the bottom of the stand mixer
famous in Cullman, Alabama, but not necessarily for their steaks. bowl with some melted butter and place the dough back in the
With a cigarette vending machine that was always well stocked and bowl, flipping the ball of dough to coat it on all sides with the
located conveniently by the entrance, the All Steak was where people butter. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free
congregated at 7:00 a.m. to smoke cigarettes and discuss politics, place until almost doubled in size, 60 to 75 minutes.
and it was where friends and couples met at 6:00 p.m. to smoke more 3. Make the filling: In a medium bowl, mash together the butter,
cigarettes and forget the day’s troubles—and to eat orange rolls, sugar, orange zest, and cardamom until well combined.
which were on the house! I guess the cigarette vending machine at the 4. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners and lightly spray the
entrance made them enough money that they didn’t need to charge liners with nonstick cooking spray.
people for their orange rolls. Eighty-two years later, the orange rolls 5. On a floured surface, roll out the dough to ⅛ inch thick, about
still taste just as delicious today. I love them so much that I cold- 12x12 inches. Spread the filling evenly over the dough. Roll the
called the restaurant and spoke to Dyron, the current owner, about dough up as tightly as you can into a 12-inch log. Using a sharp,
the original recipe. I created this recipe to carry the spirit of the rolls serrated knife and a light touch, trim about ½ inch off of either
I grew up eating. Plus, it’s cheaper than buying a round-trip ticket end, and discard. Then slice the dough into 12 pieces, each just shy
to Alabama. Few things in life are free, but the orange rolls still are, of an inch thick.
thanks to Dyron! ~Julie 6. Place the rolls in the muffin cups, cover with plastic wrap, and
let rise until puffed, 30 minutes.
DOUGH 7. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Arrange a rack in the
1½ cups plus 1 tablespoon (196 grams) all-purpose flour center of the oven.
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar 8. Bake the rolls until light golden brown and the dough is cooked
1 teaspoon (3 grams) (½ packet) instant yeast through, 12 to 15 minutes.
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 9. Make the glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk together
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom the confectioners’ sugar, melted butter, orange zest, and
¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk 1½ tablespoons of the orange juice until smooth and pourable,
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh orange juice, strained to adding more juice as needed, 1 teaspoon at a time, to reach your
remove pulp desired consistency.
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, melted, plus some 10. Remove the rolls from the oven and spoon 1 tablespoon of
more for greasing glaze over each roll while still warm. Let cool for a couple of
1 egg (50 grams), beaten, room temperature minutes before serving.
FILLING
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar FLOSSIN’
½ tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from ½ large orange) When slicing delicate doughs that you don’t want to squish
⅛ teaspoon (2 pinches) ground cardamom down too much, even better than a serrated knife is to use
dental floss! You can loop it around the dough and give it a firm
GLAZE pull, and it slices cleanly. Just make sure you’re using unwaxed
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar and unflavored floss, though!
1 (14 grams) tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
BISCOCHITO COOKIE BARS
Makes 16 bars
I didn’t even know this was a thing, but apparently in 1989, the
biscochito became the official cookie of the state of New Mexico.
As someone who is obsessed with cookies, I am disappointed that I
missed this landmark occasion. I was fourteen, and what else was
I doing with my time? I should have known about this! Well, I am
thrilled to right my wrong by offering a fresh spin on this New
Mexican holiday cookie classic. I love the subtle licorice flavor that
the anise brings to these sweet-salty-buttery blondie/shortbread-
like cookies. The classic version of this recipe calls for lard. I know,
lard! Using butter instead makes for the chewiest cookie bars with
crunchy golden edges. A finishing pinch of flaky salt, and you have
the perfectly balanced treat. Even the most traditional sweets
deserve a makeover! ~Jesse
11 tablespoons (154 grams) unsalted butter, room

temperature, plus more as needed
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (3 grams) anise seeds, plus more for topping
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
2 teaspoons (8 grams) anise extract
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Flaky sea salt
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease a 9-inch square

baking dish with a little butter, and then line with parchment
paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang (this will make it easy to lift
the bars from the pan).
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder,
salt, anise seeds, and cinnamon.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat the 11 tablespoons butter and the sugars on
medium speed until creamy and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape
down the sides of the bowl, and then add the egg, anise extract,
and vanilla. Beat until fluffy, scraping down the bowl once or
twice, another 3 minutes. Gradually add the flour mixture to
the butter mixture, beating on low speed until just combined.
The dough will be crumbly.
4. Scrape the dough into the baking dish and use a rubber
spatula to press it down in an even layer. Sprinkle more anise
seeds and some flaky sea salt evenly over the dough. Bake until
golden around the edges and a toothpick inserted in the center
comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 15
minutes. Use the parchment as a sling to lift the cake from the
pan and place on a wire rack to cool completely, and then slice
into 16 bars. •
Reprinted from FOOD BETWEEN FRIENDS by Jesse Tyler Ferguson and Julie Tanous.
Copyright © 2021 by Julie & Jesse Cook, LLC. Published by Clarkson Potter, an
imprint of Random House, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.
MERINGUE
TACKLE THE TOP MERINGUE METHODS, FROM FRENCH TO
SWISS, WITH OUR ACCESSIBLE PRIMER
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS
M
eringue is the baker’s chameleon of texture. Unbaked, it’s silky
and smooth, the cloudlike secret to a Swiss or Italian meringue
frosting. Scorched under a broiler or with a kitchen torch, it takes
on the quality of a campfire marshmallow, sporting a brûléed exterior and fluffy
interior. Baked low and slow, meringue becomes crisp and crunchy, a brittle
confection that still miraculously melts in your mouth. But how does a base
mixture of sugar and egg whites become this malleable miracle?
The short answer is whipping. Lots and lots of whipping. However, short answers
don’t always make a better baker. Instead, dive into our long-form, involved
answer on how to make the best meringue. Whether it’s by the French, Swiss,
or Italian method, we show you how to expertly maneuver these three classic
meringues and bake them into delightfully crisp kisses. Once you master this
crunchy cornerstone of pâtisserie, you’ll be on your way to executing the most
elegant of desserts, from Pavlova to baked Alaska.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Meringue Mise en Place
How to prep for meringue perfection
SCALE: With meringue, the volume

measurement is more important to
consider than the number of eggs. You
want to make sure you have ½ cup
(120 grams) egg whites—that’s roughly
4 large egg whites. Yet bakers often
find 4 egg whites don’t exactly give
½ cup. Instead, use your scale to
properly gauge the amount so you
don’t end up with more or less than
you need.
EGG WHITES: Separate your eggs while they’re still cold, as room
temperature eggs are much runnier. Make sure you separate using
the cracked shell halves or with an egg separating tool. If you use your
hands, you risk contaminating the fatless egg whites with oil, limiting
their ability to whip up. Allow these egg whites to come to room
temperature because room temperature egg whites whip better and are
less likely to be curdled by hot syrup (for the Italian meringue) or when
being heated over a double boiler (for the Swiss meringue).
OTHER INGREDIENTS: As noted, very few ingredients are needed

Meringue Chemistry to make a lovely meringue. But there are a few secret ingredients that
ensure success and flavor. Vanilla and salt bump up the flavor quota.
The real science behind the sweet magic Cream of tartar is our meringue insurance policy, as the acidic powder
helps block sulfur bonds in the egg whites, keeping the meringue smooth.
Agitating egg whites (i.e., vigorously whisking them)
Finally, sugar. For two of our recipes (Italian Meringue Kisses and Swiss
unfolds proteins and incorporates air. The unfolded
Meringue Kisses), extra-fine granulated sugar works best, as the sugar is
proteins break up into two groups, those that are
fine enough to be quickly heated and melted before being whipped into
attracted to air and those that are attracted to water.
meringue. For the French Meringue Kisses, we prefer castor sugar, as
This forms a network of suspended air bubbles and
regular granulated sugar’s larger grain keeps it from fully dissolving into
water—basically, a foam. To chemistry whizzes, this
the egg whites, leading to gritty meringue. If you have trouble locating
makes sense. To the rest of us, our eyes just glaze
extra-fine granulated sugar or castor sugar, you can make your own
over. So, imagine an unopened packet of balloons. It’s
extra-fine granulated sugar. (See PRO TIP on page 40.)
compact and probably takes up the same amount of
space as a deck of cards. Then you open the packet
(unfold the proteins), blow up the balloons (incorporate TOOLS: From the mixing bowl to the whisk attachment, make sure
air), and throw a net over all the inflated balloons your tools are scrupulously clean. A stray butter smear or bead of
(proteins bonding to creating a meshwork of liquid and oil can inhibit your meringue from reaching its lofty potential for
air) so you’ve created a voluminous but contained net maximum fluff. While copper utensils are a tried-and-true meringue
of air. On a microscopic scale, this is what is happening booster, a metal mixing bowl works just as well thanks to our cream of
when you whip your meringue. tartar insurance.
USE YOUR YOLKS

Save those leftover egg yolks! In this issue, we have four pudding cakes (see page 59), each with its own luxurious pudding filling
that gets a creamy boost from egg yolks. For the resourceful baker, plan to make meringue for one day and a pudding cake on
another. Zero egg waste equals 100% baker satisfaction.

Make FRENCH Meringue
The traditional meringue, broken down
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk 2. With mixer on low speed, add sugar in a slow, steady stream,
attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at beating until combined. (This should take about 3 minutes.) With
medium-low speed until soft peaks form, 5 to 6 minutes. meringue, slow and steady always wins the race. If you dump all
This first step is crucial to creating a stable, smooth meringue. of your sugar in at once, you risk collapsing the egg foam and are
Your egg mixture should have a droop to its peaks but still guaranteeing a gritty meringue, as the sugar won’t be smoothly
be cohesive. If you add the sugar in at the beginning, before incorporated and won’t dissolve. Try streaming in the sugar
whipping the whites into a soft peak, the meringue will come 1 teaspoon (4 grams) at a time to keep from overloading
out dense and not whip up nearly as well. the mixture.
3. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until thick and shiny, 10 to 12 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl halfway
through mixing. Over these 10 to 12 minutes, your meringue will go through three stages: soft peak, medium peak, and stiff peak.
Above, you can see what that looks like. When your whisk attachment is inverted, your meringue peak will either droop, dip, or stand
tall. You want that meringue standing tall, ensuring it can be piped and hold its shape. Another sign your meringue is ready? Rub
meringue between two fingers to make sure it’s smooth, showing the sugar has dissolved.

Make SWISS Meringue
Find out how gentle heat and steady whipping lead to
Swiss meringue magic
1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together sugar, egg

whites, cream of tartar, and salt by hand. Before you fire up the
stove, double-check that you’ve whisked together your ingredients
so the sugar is properly distributed and that you’re working with a
heatproof bowl. Glass bowls that aren’t heatproof can shatter over
the shock of steamy heat, ruining your meringue and your bowl.
2. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, 3. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. Using the whisk
whisking frequently, until sugar completely dissolves and an attachment, beat at high speed until stiff peaks form and
instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F bowl is cool to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla. You’ll
(54°C). The double boiler method allows your mixture to receive know when your meringue is ready by both touch and sight, as
gentle heat. Still, constant whisking helps keep the mixture from the moment the bowl becomes cool is also the moment your
curdling and making sure that the sugar melts evenly. Some meringue is properly whipped. This method has a shorter mixing
recipes recommend you rub the mixture between your fingers to time than the French meringue, as the sugar is already dissolved
tell when the sugar has dissolved, but to avoid singed fingertips, we and doesn’t need excess mixing to be incorporated.
recommend you use your thermometer.

Make ITALIAN Meringue
From simple syrup to stiff peaks, learn how to craft this
Italian classic
1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and ¼ cup (60 grams)

water. Bring to a boil over high heat, being careful not to splash
sides of pan, stirring to help sugar dissolve. (Do not stir once
mixture starts to boil.) Cook until an instant-read thermometer
registers 240°F (116°C). If you splash the sides of the pan with
your sugar water, you risk having sugar crystals form on the rim,
which could make your syrup gritty. Another way to avoid this
nitty-gritty problem? Brush the inner sides of your saucepan
with water, just like you would when making caramel. The ideal
temperature is known as the “soft-ball” stage, where sugar has
melted and become syrupy but won’t harden when cooled.
2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 3. Increase mixer speed to high, and beat until stiff peaks form
whisk attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at and bowl is cool to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in vanilla.
medium speed until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. With mixer This mixing time is significantly shorter than that of the French
on medium speed, pour hot sugar syrup between side of bowl meringue. Why? You’ve already won half the battle by dissolving
and whisk attachment in a slow, steady stream. Again, slow and your sugar into a syrup. Much of the mixing time with French
steady. Be careful not to have your syrup stream hit the sides of meringue is about incorporating the crystalline sugar. As a syrup,
the bowls, as the shock of cold can cause the syrup to crystallize the process is much faster.
and harden. And be sure the mixer is on, as the constant
movement keeps the sugar from pooling in one spot, curdling your
egg white proteins.
Pipe and Bake
How to nail that final step for meringue kisses
1. Transfer meringue to a large pastry bag fitted with a piping tip. For easy meringue
transfer, place pastry bag in a large jar or glass and fold the bag edges over the lip
of the glass before spooning in meringue. Holding tip perpendicular to parchment
paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide, 1-inch-high meringue kisses at least ½ inch apart on
prepared pans. Apply even, gentle pressure as you go along so you don’t push the
air out of the meringue.
2. Bake until dry to the touch, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Turn oven off, and leave
meringue kisses in oven with door closed for 1 hour. Consider the time you bake
the meringues as setting the shape, while the hour-long rest in the oven afterward
a period for the meringues to dry out. Don’t be tempted to open the oven during
this baking and resting period, as the sudden drop in temperature can cause your
meringues to crack. Remove from oven (meringues will peel off parchment without
sticking), and let cool completely on pans.
Meringue Diagnostics
Make sure to avoid these common mistakes that can turn meringue into meh-ringue
THE PROBLEM: CLUMPY MERINGUE THE PROBLEM:

THE SOLUTION: Use an acid (cream of tartar or lemon GRITTY
juice) and don’t overbeat your meringue. This isn’t an issue with MERINGUE
Swiss or Italian meringue, but French meringue can definitely
THE SOLUTION:
be overwhipped. When mixing your egg whites, before adding
Incorporate your sugar
the sugar, make sure you stop at soft peaks, as the sulfuric
properly. Perhaps you added the sugar too quickly or perhaps you
bonds in the egg whites will eventually start to form clumps.
didn’t wait for it to dissolve on the stovetop. Either way, sugar
And remember that insurance policy, cream of tartar? This is
and impatience lie at the heart of the gritty meringue problem.
what you’re insuring against. If your pantry is missing this key
Use extra-fine granulated sugar or castor sugar for your French
ingredient, don’t panic. Just ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) fresh lemon
meringue, and remember to be patient when adding it or cooking it.
juice, another handy acid that blocks sulfur bonds, can be used in
a pinch.
THE PROBLEM: STICKY MERINGUE
THE PROBLEM: WEEPING MERINGUE THE SOLUTION: Check your weather. If you live in Nevada,
congratulations! You live in the most arid state and have peak
THE SOLUTION: Calibrate your oven. All of our meringue kisses
weather for making meringue most of the year. If you live in a
are baked at 225°F (107°C), a nice low temperature that allows
rainier area (think Hawaii or the Deep South), it’s best if you
the egg white proteins to bake slowly. If your oven is running too
check your forecast before taking on meringue. Why? A wet
hot, the moisture in the meringue can be squeezed out rather than
climate, whether it’s through rain or humidity, will make your
evaporating, leading to weeping. This is can also be a particular
meringue gummy and chewy. The sugary surface of your meringue
problem with meringue-topped pies, when bakers add meringue
sucks up the moisture in the air like a sponge, making it sticky
to a too-hot pie. One other cause? Your sugar has not properly
rather than crunchy, no matter how long you bake it.
dissolved in the meringue.

FRENCH MERINGUE KISSES ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
Makes about 65 kisses 1 cup (200 grams) castor sugar 3. Transfer meringue to a large pastry bag
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract fitted with a Wilton 1A round piping tip.
The meringue behind the macaron, Pavlova, Holding tip perpendicular to parchment
and Eton mess, a French meringue is a 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide, 1-inch-high
simple combination of room temperature the whisk attachment, beat egg whites, meringue kisses at least ½ inch apart on
egg whites and granulated sugar, no cream of tartar, and salt at medium-low prepared pans.
heating required. While this is the simplest speed until soft peaks form, 5 to 4. Bake until dry to the touch,
way to make meringue (no extra tools or 6 minutes. With mixer on low speed, add 45 minutes to 1 hour. Turn oven off,
time on the stovetop), it is also the most sugar in a slow, steady stream, beating and leave meringue kisses in oven with
delicate of the meringues. To help make this until combined. (This should take about door closed for 1 hour. Remove from
meringue smooth and dreamy, use extra-fine 3 minutes.) Increase mixer speed to oven (meringues will peel off parchment
granulated sugar or castor sugar. This sugar medium, and beat until thick and shiny, without sticking), and let cool completely
has a finer grain than standard granulated 10 to 12 minutes, stopping to scrape sides on pans. Best served same day.
sugar but isn’t powdered like confectioners’ of bowl halfway through mixing. Rub
sugar, allowing it dissolve and incorporate meringue between 2 fingers to make sure French Meringue: Strawberry Eton Mess
into the meringue with ease. it is smooth and no sugar granules can be Roulade, page 45; Black Forest Pavlova, page
felt. Add vanilla, and beat at medium-high 57; Chocolate-Orange-Pistachio Forgotten
½ cup (120 grams) egg whites, room speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Cookies, page 112.
temperature 2. Preheat oven to 225°F (107°C). Line
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
PRO TIP
To make extra-fine granulated sugar or castor sugar, place granulated sugar in the work bowl of a food processor, the container of a
blender, or a spice grinder. (If using a large food processor, make sure there is enough sugar to cover the blades.) Pulse until sugar
resembles fine sand, about 2 pulses. Make sure you don’t pulse too much; otherwise, you’ll end up with confectioners’ sugar.
SWISS MERINGUE KISSES ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla.
Makes about 80 kisses ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 3. Preheat oven to 225°F (107°C). Line
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
For Swiss meringue, egg whites and 4. Transfer meringue to a large pastry
granulated sugar are heated in the top of 1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, bag fitted with a Wilton 1M open star
a double boiler until the sugar melts and whisk together sugar, egg whites, cream piping tip. Holding tip perpendicular to
an instant-read thermometer registers of tartar, and salt by hand. Place bowl over parchment paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide,
120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Once the a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, 1-inch-high meringue kisses at least ½ inch
mixture reaches this temperature range, it is whisking frequently, until sugar completely apart on prepared pans.
whipped to glossy stiff peaks, about the time dissolves and an instant-read thermometer 5. Bake until dry to the touch, 45 minutes
it takes for the entire mixture to cool down. registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). to 1 hour. Turn oven off, and leave
Swiss meringue is stiff and stable, great for 2. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. meringue kisses in oven with door closed
becoming a Swiss meringue buttercream or Using the whisk attachment, beat at high for 1 hour. Remove from oven (meringues
enrobing a baked Alaska. speed until stiff peaks form and bowl is cool will peel off parchment without sticking),
and let cool completely on pans. Best
1 cup (200 grams) extra-fine served same day.
granulated sugar
½ cup (120 grams) egg whites, room
temperature
ITALIAN MERINGUE KISSES
Makes about 120 kisses
To make a classic Italian meringue, granulated

sugar and water are heated to make a sugar
syrup. Meanwhile, you whip your egg whites with
a bit of cream of tartar until soft peaks form.
Then you add the sugar syrup to soft peak-
whipped egg whites in a slow, steady stream,
beating until glossy stiff peaks form. Bakers
like this meringue because it’s stable and can
withstand some intense mixing, making it ideal
for smooth Italian meringue buttercream or
topping a lemon meringue pie.
1 cup (200 grams) extra-fine

granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) water
½ cup (120 grams) egg whites, room
temperature
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract
1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and

¼ cup (60 grams) water. Bring to a boil over
high heat, being careful not to splash sides of
pan, stirring to help sugar dissolve. (Do not
stir once mixture starts to boil.) Cook until an
instant-read thermometer registers 240°F
(116°C).
2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg
whites, cream of tartar, and salt at medium
speed until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
3. With mixer on medium speed, pour hot
sugar syrup between side of bowl and whisk
attachment in a slow, steady stream. Increase
mixer speed to high, and beat until stiff peaks
form and bowl is cool to the touch, 2 to
3 minutes. Beat in vanilla.
4. Preheat oven to 225°F (107°C). Line
2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
5. Transfer meringue to a large pastry bag
fitted with a Wilton 4B French star piping
tip. Holding tip perpendicular to parchment
paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide, 1-inch-high
meringue kisses at least ½ inch apart on
prepared pans.
6. Bake until dry to the touch, 45 minutes
to 1 hour. Turn oven off, and leave meringue
kisses in oven with door closed for 1 hour.
Remove from oven (meringues will peel off
parchment without sticking), and let cool
completely on pans. Best served same day.
Italian Meringue: Banana Pudding

Hummingbird Cake with Vanilla Italian
Buttercream, page 69. •
4 W AY S W I T H
BAKED, ROASTED, MACERATED, OR FRESH—

WHATEVER FORM A STRAWBERRY TAKES IN YOUR BAKED GOOD, THE
RESULTS ARE ALWAYS DIVINELY SWEET. FOR THESE BERRY-PACKED
RECIPES, WE TURNED TO EMMA DUCKWORTH, THE RECIPE DEVELOPER
AND FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER BEHIND THE BLOG EMMA DUCKWORTH BAKES..
PHOTOGRAPHY, RECIPE
DEVELOPMENT, AND FOOD STYLING
BASED IN LONDON, ENGLAND, EMMA HAS ALWAYS HAD HER ROOTS IN
EMMA DUCKWORTH
BY
THE CREATIVE WORLD, INITIALLY WORKING AS AN INTERIOR DESIGNER
BEFORE BECOMING A BAKING BLOGGER. EMMA WILL BE RELEASING A
COOKBOOK THIS FALL FEATURING MANY OF HER SIGNATURE RECIPES.
CONSIDER THESE STRAWBERRY RECIPES THE PERFECT PREVIEW TO HER
INSPIRED WORK.
Strawberry and Almond
Buttermilk Cake
page 49

STRAWBERRY ETON MESS 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
ROULADE the whisk attachment, beat egg whites at
Makes 8 to 10 servings medium speed until soft peaks form. Add
castor sugar, 1 tablespoon (12 grams) at a
This showstopping dessert combines all the time, beating until combined after each
essential elements of the quintissentially addition.
British Eton mess dessert. Reinvented into 3. In a small bowl, combine cornstarch
a roulade, the light-as-air meringue is rolled and lemon juice. Add cornstarch mixture
delicately with fresh strawberries, mint, and and vanilla to egg white mixture, and beat
lemon crème fraîche whipped cream. Topped at high speed until thick and glossy and
with chopped pistachios and more fresh sugar is fully combined, about 5 minutes.
strawberries, this dessert will have you going (If you rub a bit of mixture between your
back for more. thumb and forefinger, there should be no
grit.) Spoon meringue into prepared pan,
3 egg whites (90 grams), room smoothing top with an offset spatula.
temperature 4. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven
¾ cup (150 grams) castor sugar temperature to 285°F (140°C), and bake
1 teaspoon (3 grams) cornstarch until meringue is crisp, firm to the touch,
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice and beginning to crack, about 15 minutes
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract more.
½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping 5. Dust a 14x10-inch sheet of parchment
cream paper with confectioners' sugar. Invert
2 tablespoons (30 grams) confectioners’ meringue onto prepared parchment.
sugar, plus more for dusting Remove pan, and discard parchment from
1 tablespoon (6 grams) packed lemon top of meringue. Let cool for 30 minutes.
zest (about 1 large lemon) 6. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk
½ cup (120 grams) crème fraîche attachment. Using the whisk attachment,
½ pound (226 grams) fresh strawberries, beat cream, confectioners’ sugar, and
hulled and sliced lemon zest at medium speed until soft
2 tablespoons (4 grams) fresh mint peaks form. Fold in crème fraîche. Spoon
leaves (about 5 leaves), sliced thinly and spread whipped cream mixture onto
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar, fresh meringue, leaving a 1-inch border around
strawberries, coarsely chopped edges. Place sliced strawberries on top of
pistachios whipped cream mixture. Sprinkle with mint
leaves. Starting at one short end and using
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). parchment to help, roll up meringue as
Lightly spray a 13x9-inch rimmed baking tightly as you can, jelly roll style, and place
sheet with cooking spray. Line pan with on a serving plate. Refrigerate for
parchment paper. 30 minutes. Garnish with confectioners’
sugar, strawberries, and pistachios.
PRO TIP
To make castor sugar, place granulated
sugar in the work bowl of a food
processor, the container of a blender,
or a spice grinder. (If using a large food
processor, make sure there is enough
sugar to cover the blades.) Pulse until
sugar resembles fine sand, about 2 times.
Make sure you don’t pulse too much;
otherwise, you’ll turn your granulated
sugar into confectioners’ sugar.
MAKE AHEAD
The roulade can be made 1 day before serving.
Bake the meringue and prepare the whipped cream
mixture the day before, and assemble on the day
you serve the roulade.
This meringue roulade is best eaten the day it’s
made, but it can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.
However, please note that the meringue will soften
and the strawberries will begin to weep their juices
into the whipped cream mixture.
BASIL SOUR CREAM
SCONES WITH MACERATED
STRAWBERRIES
Makes 9 to 10 scones
These basil scones are the perfect

accompaniment to lightly whipped cream and
sweet, juicy macerated strawberries. The sour
cream scones are light, soft, and crumbly on butter, about the size of a walnut half, still
the inside with that crunchy exterior, elevated visible. Make a well in center, and add cold
by the hint of herbaceous basil leaves. sour cream, egg, 1 teaspoon (4 grams)
Macerating the strawberries releases the vanilla extract, and sliced basil. Using a
strawberry juices, intensifying their flavor and spoon, fold mixture until just combined.
providing a beautiful pairing to the scones. (Dough will look extremely shaggy.)
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured
2⅓ cups (292 grams) self-rising flour surface. Using lightly floured hands, gently
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder knead until dough just comes together,
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda 2 or 3 times. (Don’t knead too much,
¼ cup (50 grams) plus 2 tablespoons as dough will become tough.) Pat or roll
(24 grams) granulated sugar, divided dough to 3⁄4-inch thickness. Using a
½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, 21⁄3-inch round cutter, cut dough, and
cubed place, touching, on prepared pan. (Having
⅔ cup (160 grams) cold sour cream the scones touching helps them rise).
1 large egg (50 grams), beaten Freeze for 20 minutes.
11⁄2 teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract, 4. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
divided 5. In a medium bowl, toss together
4 tablespoons (8 grams) large fresh basil strawberries, vanilla bean paste, and
leaves (about 16 leaves), sliced into remaining 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar
thin strips until coated. Let stand for 30 minutes to
¾ pound (345 grams) fresh strawberries, 1 hour.
hulled and quatered or sliced 6. Brush tops of scones with milk.
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste 7. Bake until set and tops are golden brown,
1 tablesoon (15 grams) whole milk 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool completely.
1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream 8. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk MAKE AHEAD
2 tablespoons (30 grams) attachment, beat cream at medium These scones are best served the same
confectioners' sugar speed until slightly thickened. Add the day they are baked but can be prepared
Garnish: fresh baby basil leaves confectioner’s sugar and remaing vanilla 1 to 2 days ahead and stored in an
extract and whip until until soft peaks airtight container at room temperature.
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. form. Refrigerate until ready to use. The macerated strawberries can be
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking 9. Slice scones in half horizontally. Spoon prepared 1 day ahead, covered tightly
powder, and baking soda; add ¼ cup whipped cream onto bottom halves of with plastic wrap, and refrigerated until
(50 grams) sugar, stirring until combined. scones. Spoon macerated strawberries ready to serve. The whipped cream can
Add cold butter, tossing to coat. Using onto whipped cream, and drizzle with some be made and refrigerated in an airtight
container 2 to 3 hours before serving.
your fingertips, rub butter into flour juice from strawberries. Garnish with baby
mixture until mixture resembles coarse basil leaves, if desired. Cover with top
sand but there are some larger bits of halves of scones.
STRAWBERRY AND ALMOND ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, until combined. In a small bowl, combine
BUTTERMILK CAKE softened buttermilk and vanilla. With mixer on low
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake ⅔ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar speed, add flour mixture to butter mixture
2 large eggs (100 grams), room in two additions alternately with buttermilk
A light buttermilk almond cake batter dotted temperature mixture, beginning and ending with flour
with strawberries and sprinkled with flaked 1 cup (125 grams) plus 1 tablespoon mixture, beating until combined after each
almonds bakes up to form a simple yet (8 grams) all-purpose flour, divided addition.
delicious dessert. Best served warm alongside 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder 4. In another medium bowl, combine
a cup of tea, this stunner is brilliant to serve ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt three-fourths of strawberries and remaining
when you want an understated yet incredibly ¾ cup (72 grams) almond flour 1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose flour,
tasty cake. The strawberries throughout add ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk gently tossing to coat. Fold into batter. Pour
pops of sweet juicyness that complement the 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract batter into prepared pan, smoothing top
almond sponge so well. ½ pound (226 grams) fresh strawberries, with an offset spatula. Arrange remaining
hulled and halved strawberries on top of batter. (Don’t push
2 tablespoons (24 grams) coarse them in as they tend to sink.) Sprinkle with
turbinado sugar turbinado sugar.
¼ cup (28 grams) sliced almonds 5. Bake until golden and a wooden pick
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to
35 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter Remove from pan, and let cool slightly on a
a 9-inch springform pan. wire rack. Sprinkle with sliced almonds, and
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with garnish with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.
the paddle attachment, beat butter and This cake is best served warm. Store in an
granulated sugar at medium speed until airtight container at room temperature for
pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes, stopping up to 2 days, or refrigerate in an airtight
to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low container for up to 5 days.
speed, add eggs, one at a time, beating
until combined after each addition. Note: If you don’t have buttermilk on hand,
3. In a medium bowl, sift together 1 cup add ½ tablespoon (7.5 grams) fresh lemon
(125 grams) all-purpose flour, baking juice to ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, and
powder, and salt; add almond flour, and stir let stand for 10 minutes. You’ll then have
homemade buttermilk.
PANNA COTTA WITH BALSAMIC- just until bubbles form around edges of BALSAMIC-ROASTED STRAWBERRIES
ROASTED STRAWBERRIES pan. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat. Makes about 1½ cups
Makes 6 servings Add gelatin mixture, and whisk until well
combined. (If some of the gelatin has not 1 pound (454 grams) fresh strawberries,
A beautifully smooth and creamy vanilla bean dissolved, heat over low heat, and whisk hulled and halved
panna cotta topped with Balsamic-Roasted until gelatin completely dissolves.) Discard 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) balsamic vinegar
Strawberries and fresh thyme, this dessert is vanilla bean. Pour milk mixture into a 2 tablespoons (28 grams) firmly packed
deceptively easy to make but has that wow pitcher to make it easier to divide later, and light brown sugar
factor to impress your guests. The balsamic let cool completely.
vinegar complements the sweetness of the 3. Whisk room temperature milk 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
roasted strawberries perfectly, providing the mixture to distribute vanilla seeds and 2. In a medium bowl, combine all
ideal topping for the panna cotta. skim off any air bubbles. Divide among ingredients, gently tossing to coat. Pour
6 ramekins (about ¾ cup [180 grams] onto a rimmed baking sheet, spreading
½ cup (120 grams) water, room each). Refrigerate until completely set, strawberries in a single layer.
temperature 3 to 4 hours. (Panna cotta will have a 3. Bake until softened, 15 to 20 minutes.
5 teaspoons (20 grams) gelatin powder wobble when set—this is perfect!) Transfer mixture to a heatproof bowl, and
2½ cups (600 grams) whole milk 4. When ready to serve, divide Balsamic- let cool completely. •
1½ cups (360 grams) heavy whipping Roasted Strawberries among panna
cream cottas. (Any remaining Balsamic-Roasted
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar Strawberries can be refrigerated, if
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds necessary.) Garnish with thyme leaves, if
scraped and reserved desired. Panna cotta can be covered with
Balsamic-Roasted Strawberries (recipe plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
follows)
Garnish: fresh thyme leaves Note: Both the panna cotta and the
Balsamic-Roasted Strawberries can be
1. In a small bowl, place ½ cup (120 grams) prepared 1 day ahead.
water; sprinkle with gelatin powder, and
stir. Let stand for 15 minutes to dissolve.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk,
cream, sugar, and vanilla bean and reserved
seeds over low heat, whisking constantly,
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INSTAGRAM:
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52
perfectly
Imperfect
STYLING BY DOROTHY WALTON

BAKING DOESN’T ALWAYS GO AS PLANNED. THANKFULLY, THERE ARE THINGS IN LIFE THAT ARE
BEAUTIFUL BECAUSE OF THEIR RUSTIC NATURE. WE HARNESSED THAT BEAUTY AND CREATED
THREE FREE-FORM RECIPES, ALL DESIGNED TO BE PERFECTLY FREE STANDING. PUT ASIDE YOUR
SPECIALTY PANS AND GET READY TO BAKE DESSERTS THAT HOLD THEIR OWN—LITERALLY.
Black Forest Pavlova

page 57
Cream Cheese Bread with Cinnamon Sugar
page 57
Peach Frangipane Galette
page 58
BLACK FOREST PAVLOVA Place tip of a small offset spatula at base Gradually add chocolate, stirring until
Makes 1 (7-inch) Pavlova of meringue, and pull up to create a long combined. Cover with plastic wrap,
groove. Repeat around outside edge. Place pressing wrap directly onto surface of
A widely popular dessert in Australia and New meringue in oven. custard to prevent a skin from forming.
Zealand, the Pavlova plays on texture and 5. Immediately reduce oven temperature Refrigerate until completely cooled.
flavor in the most dynamic ways. Using just a to 225°F (107°C). Bake until dry and firm
piece of parchment paper and a spatula, the to the touch, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Turn WHIPPED CREAM
airy meringue base is piled high and shaped oven off, and leave meringue in oven with Makes 1½ cups
into a shallow bowl. After baking, the shell door closed for 8 hours or up to overnight.
of our Black Forest Pavlova, with its crispy 6. Measure ½ cup (120 grams) syrup from ¾ cup (180 grams) cold heavy whipping
exterior and chewy marshmallow-like interior, cherries. Bring to a boil over medium cream
receives a silky Chocolate Pastry Cream that heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until 1½ tablespoons (18 grams) granulated
is ultimately scattered with juicy cherries and reduced by about half, 6 to 8 minutes. sugar
dolloped with pillows of Whipped Cream. Transfer to a heatproof bowl, and let cool 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) cherry brandy*
completely.
½ cup (120 grams) egg whites, room 7. Spoon Chocolate Pastry Cream in 1. In a large bowl, whisk together all
temperature center of meringue; top with Whipped ingredients until medium to stiff peaks
¼ teaspoon kosher salt Cream. Top with cooled cherry syrup and form. Use immediately, or refrigerate until
1 cup (200 grams) castor sugar cherries. Garnish with chocolate curls, if ready to use.
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) cornstarch desired. Serve immediately.
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) distilled white *Vanilla extract can be substituted.
vinegar *We used Heilala Pure Vanilla Extract.
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract* CREAM CHEESE BREAD WITH
1 (13.5-ounce) jar (383 grams) cherries CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM CINNAMON SUGAR
(stem on) Makes 1⅓ cups Makes 1 large loaf
Chocolate Pastry Cream (recipe follows)
Whipped Cream (recipe follows) ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk One loaf, one giant cinnamon sugar and
Garnish: chocolate curls 4 tablespoons (48 grams) granulated cream cheese swirl! If you have been tempted
sugar, divided but remain timid when it comes to making
1. Position oven rack in center of oven. 2 tablespoons (30 grams) heavy babka or challah, this is the bread primer to
Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). whipping cream get you twirling up yeasted bread with ease.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt Butter and cream cheese enrich the dough,
the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and 2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room adding incredible softness, and the cinnamon
salt at medium-low speed until soft peaks temperature sugar sprinkled on top lends a sweet crunch.
form, 5 to 6 minutes. With mixer on low 1½ tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
speed, add castor sugar in a slow, steady 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, ½ cup (120 grams) warm water
stream, beating until combined. (This cubed (110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)
should take about 3 minutes.) Increase 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract ½ cup (120 gams) warm whole milk
mixer speed to medium-high, and beat 2.5 ounces (71 grams) finely chopped (110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)
until thick and shiny, 10 to 12 minutes, 60% cacao bittersweet chocolate 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
stopping to scrape sides of bowl halfway 5 tablespoons (60 grams) granulated
through mixing. Rub meringue between 1. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, sugar, divided
2 fingers to make sure it is smooth and no 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar, cream, 3⅓ cups (417 grams) all-purpose flour,
sugar granules can be felt. and salt over medium heat, stirring divided
3. In a small bowl, whisk together occasionally, until steaming. (Do not boil.) 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
cornstarch, vinegar, and vanilla. Add to 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 large eggs (100 grams), room
meringue, and beat at high speed until egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining temperature and divided
combined, about 30 seconds. 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar. Whisk hot 1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
4. Using a permanent marker, draw a milk mixture into egg yolk mixture. Return 3 ounces (85 grams) cream cheese,
7-inch circle on a 16½x12-inch sheet of mixture to saucepan, and cook, whisking cubed and room temperature
parchment paper. Turn parchment over, constantly, until mixture begins to boil. 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Spoon (Mixture will be thick.) Cook, whisking butter, cubed and room temperature
meringue inside drawn circle. Using a constantly, until cornstarch flavor has ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
spatula, shape meringue until it fills drawn cooked out, 1 to 2 minutes.
circle, with straight sides and a flat top. (Try 3. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh 1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup
to do this quickly—the more you work with sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Stir (120 grams) warm water, warm milk, yeast,
it, the harder it will be to shape later on.) in butter and vanilla until well combined. and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar. Let stand
until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk PEACH FRANGIPANE GALETTE ¼ cup (60 grams) cold sour cream
together 3 cups (375 grams) flour, Makes 1 (9½-inch) galette 4 to 5 tablespoons (60 to 75 grams)
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (32 grams) ice water
sugar, and salt by hand. Add warm milk Logistically, the galette is a free-form pie,
mixture, 1 egg (50 grams), and egg yolk. with a rustically shaped flaky crust showing 1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
Using the paddle attachment, beat at low off a thick fruity filling. Galettes aren’t place flour, sugar, and salt; pulse until
speed until a shaggy dough forms; scrape necessarily always circular—square and combined. Add cold butter, and pulse until
sides of bowl. rectangular are options—but like pies, round mixture is crumbly.
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. galettes serve up slices with the perfect 2. In a small bowl, whisk together cold sour
Beat at low speed until smooth and elastic, crust-to-filling ratio. Our Peach Frangipane cream and 4 tablespoons (60 grams) ice
5 to 7 minutes; add up to remaining ⅓ cup Galette boasts an almond-peach combo with water. With processor running, add sour
(42 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) a tender sour cream crust and is the perfect cream mixture in a slow, steady stream
at a time, if dough is too sticky. Add reason to keep frozen fruit on hand. just until dough comes together; add up
cream cheese and butter, one cube at a to remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) ice
time, beating until almost fully combined Sour Cream Galette Dough (recipe water if mixture is too dry. (Mixture may
after each addition (6 to 8 minutes total). follows) appear crumbly. It should be moist and
Beat until a smooth ball forms at base of Frangipane (recipe follows) hold together when pinched.) Turn out
dough hook and elastic dough forms, 6 to 3½ cups (543 grams) thawed frozen sliced dough, and shape into a disk. Wrap tightly
8 minutes. (Dough will stick to sides of peaches in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least
bowl.) Turn out dough onto a lightly floured ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar 30 minutes.
surface. Knead 4 to 5 times, and shape into 1 tablespoon (7 grams) tapioca flour
a smooth round. 2 teaspoons (5 grams) tightly packed FRANGIPANE
4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough lemon zest Makes about ⅓ cup
in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ tablespoons (21 grams) unsalted
(75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten butter, room temperature
45 minutes to 1 hour. 1 tablespoon (7 grams) sliced almonds 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated
5. Line a light-colored metal baking sheet 1 teaspoon (4 grams) turbinado sugar sugar
with parchment paper. 1 large egg white (30 grams), room
6. Punch down dough well, and let stand 1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a temperature
for 10 to 15 minutes. On a lightly floured baking sheet with parchment paper. ⅛ teaspoon almond extract
surface, shape dough into an 18-inch log; 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll Sour ¼ cup (24 grams) blanched almond flour
roll into a 36-inch log. Coil dough around Cream Galette Dough into a 14-inch 1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose flour
itself to shape into a spiral, tucking end circle, about 3⁄16 inch thick. Transfer to ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
under. (It’s OK if spiral isn’t super tight. prepared pan. Spread Frangipane onto
Shape turns out better when it is kept flat dough, leaving a 2-inch border. 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together butter
instead of building it up.) Use your hands 3. In a large bowl, toss together peaches, and sugar until well combined. Whisk in
to lift, and place on prepared pan. Cover granulated sugar, flour, lemon zest, vanilla, egg white and almond extract. Add flours
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place and salt. Pour peach mixture on top of and salt, and whisk until well combined. •
(75°F/24°C) until puffed, 20 to Frangipane. Pleat dough every 2 inches,
30 minutes. lightly pinching to seal. Using a pastry
7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). brush, brush edges with egg. Sprinkle with
8. In a small bowl, whisk remaining 1 egg almonds and turbinado sugar.
(50 grams). In another small bowl, stir 4. Bake until crust is golden and bottom
together cinnamon and remaining is browned, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool on
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar. Brush pan for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room
loaf with egg wash, and sprinkle with temperature.
cinnamon sugar.
9. Bake until golden brown and an instant- SOUR CREAM GALETTE DOUGH
read thermometer inserted in center Makes 1 (9½-inch) crust
registers 190°F (88°C), 30 to 35 minutes,
covering with foil to prevent excess 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
browning, if necessary. Let cool on pan for 1½ tablespoons (18 grams) granulated
10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool sugar
completely on a wire rack. 1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt
⅔ cup (150 grams) cold unsalted butter,
cubed
IS IN
THE
Banana Pudding Hummingbird Cake
page 69
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY TRICIA MANZANERO

STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
THE CULMINATION OF FLAVOR AND TEXTURE ACHIEVED BY LAYERING CAKE WITH SMOOTH
AND SILKY PUDDING IS OTHERWORLDLY. PUDDING CAN BE SAVORED ON ITS OWN OR USED TO BRING
OTHER DESSERTS TO NEW HEIGHTS. A PERFECT FOUNDATION FOR FLAVORS AND MIX-INS—
LIKE FRAGRANT VANILLA BEAN IN OUR BANANA PUDDING HUMMINGBIRD CAKE OR MALTED MILK
BALLS IN OUR CHOCOLATE PUDDING CAKE—PUDDING TAKES THE CAKE.
Coconut Pecan Cake
COCONUT PECAN CAKE 5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake the paddle attachment, beat butter, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) cream of coconut
1¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon 1 cup (85 grams) firmly packed
Recipe by Dolester Miles (376 grams) granulated sugar, and cream sweetened flaked coconut
of coconut at high speed until light and
A trip to Birmingham, Alabama, wouldn’t be fluffy, about 4 minutes, stopping to 1. In a small heatproof bowl, whisk egg
complete without a stop at Highlands Bar & scrape sides of bowls. Add eggs, one at a yolks; set aside.
Grill, Chez Fonfon, or Bottega for a serving time, beating well after each addition and 2. In a medium saucepan, heat condensed
of Coconut Pecan Cake made by esteemed stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in milk, butter, and cream of coconut over
pastry chef Dolester Miles. Fortunately for ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) coconut extract. With medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until
those who can’t make to Birmingham, Dolester mixer on low speed, add flour mixture in hot, about 4 minutes. Whisk one-third of
has shared her recipe so we can recreate this three additions alternately with coconut hot milk mixture into egg yolks. Add egg yolk
showstopper at home. Four nutty cake layers milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture to remaining hot milk mixture in pan,
brimming with pecans and fragrant coconut mixture, beating just until combined after and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture
are stacked with a thick, sweet pudding filling each addition. Divide batter between has the consistency of pudding, about
made with condensed milk, cream of coconut, prepared pans, and smooth tops with a 4 minutes. (Do not let custard get too thick.)
and more sweetened flaked coconut. The cake small offset spatula. Transfer to a bowl, and stir in flaked coconut.
is coated with a simple sweetened whipped 6. Bake until golden and a wooden pick Cover with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing
cream, covered with toasted coconut, and inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to wrap directly onto surface of pudding to
served with Crème Anglaise. 35 minutes. Let cool in pans on wire racks prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
for 30 minutes. Run a knife around edge of completely chilled.
1 cup (85 grams) firmly packed each cake. Remove from pans, and discard
sweetened shredded coconut parchment. Let cool completely on wire racks. CRÈME ANGLAISE
¾ cup (74 grams) pecan halves, toasted 7. In a small saucepan, heat ½ cup Makes about 3 cups
2½ cups (500 grams) granulated sugar, (120 grams) water and remaining ½ cup
divided (100 grams) granulated sugar over medium 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder dissolves. Remove from heat. 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar,
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt 8. Cut each cooled cake layer in half divided
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, horizontally. Place 1 layer in bottom of a 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
softened 9-inch round cake pan, and brush with scraped and reserved
¼ cup (60 grams) cream of coconut 2 to 3 tablespoons (35 to 52 grams) simple 10 large egg yolks (188 grams)
4 large eggs (200 grams), room syrup. Using an offset spatula, spread
temperature ½ cup Coconut Filling in a thin, even layer 1. In a medium saucepan, whisk together
1¼ teaspoons (5 grams) coconut extract, on cake layer. Top with second cake layer, milk, cream, ½ cup (100 grams) sugar, and
divided and brush with 2 to 3 tablespoons (35 to vanilla bean and reserved seeds; cook over
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 grams) 52 grams) simple syrup. Spread ½ cup medium heat, whisking occasionally, until
unsweetened coconut milk filling on top. Top with third cake layer, and steaming. (Do not boil.)
½ cup (120 grams) water brush with 2 to 3 tablespoons (35 to 2. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk
Coconut Filling (recipe follows) 52 grams) simple syrup. Spread remaining together egg yolks and remaining
1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream ½ cup filling on top. Top with remaining ½ cup (100 grams) sugar. Gradually add
¼ cup (30 grams) confectioners’ sugar cake layer, and brush with remaining half of warm milk mixture to egg yolk
2 cups (170 grams) sweetened flaked simple syrup. Refrigerate for about 1 hour. mixture, whisking constantly. Add egg yolk
coconut, toasted To unmold, run a spatula around edges of mixture to remaining milk mixture in pan.
Crème Anglaise (recipe follows), to serve cake, and invert onto a cake plate. Cook over medium heat, whisking, until an
9. Clean bowl of stand mixer. Using the whisk instant-read thermometer registers 175°F
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter attachment, beat cream, confectioners’ sugar, (79°C) to 185°F (83°C).
2 (9-inch) round cake pans. Line bottom and remaining 1 teaspoon (4 grams) coconut 3. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve
of pans with parchment paper; butter extract at high speed until stiff peaks form. into another medium heatproof bowl set
parchment and flour pans. Spread on top and sides of cake; sprinkle with over an ice water bath. Whisk until Crème
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, toasted coconut. Refrigerate until ready to Anglaise is room temperature. Cover and
pulse firmly packed coconut until finely serve. Serve with Crème Anglaise. refrigerate until chilled, 2 to 3 hours.
ground; transfer to a bowl.
3. In the work bowle of a food processor, COCONUT FILLING
place pecans and 2 tablespoons (24 grams) Makes about 1¾ cups
granulated sugar; process until finely ground.
4. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking 2 large egg yolks (37 grams), lightly beaten
powder, and salt. Stir in ground coconut ¾ cup (234 grams) sweetened
and pecan mixture. condensed milk
ORANGE CREAM CAKE Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake from pans, and let cool completely, the paddle attachment, beat butter and
parchment side down, on wire racks. salt at medium speed until creamy, 1 to
Inspired by the orange-flavored Creamsicles of 5. Level cooled cake layers; discard 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
our childhood, a luscious orange-vanilla pudding parchment. Place 1 cake layer, cut side bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually
is slathered between orange-scented cake up, on a cake turntable or a serving plate. add confectioners’ sugar alternately with
layers before the stack gets enrobed by Creamy Brush with half of Simple Syrup. Spoon ½ buttermilk, beginning and ending with
Buttermilk Frosting. Better yet, you won’t have cup (about 123 grams) Creamy Buttermilk confectioners’ sugar, beating just until
to chase down the ice cream truck for this one. Frosting into a pastry bag; cut a ½-inch combined after each addition. Beat in
opening in tip. Pipe a ½-inch-tall border vanilla. Increase mixer speed to medium;
1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter, around edge of layer; dollop and spread beat until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping
softened Orange Cream Filling inside piped border. to scrape sides of bowl. Use immediately.
2½ cups (500 grams) granulated sugar Top with remaining cake layer, cut side
2 tablespoons (18 grams) tightly packed down. Brush with remaining Simple Syrup. ORANGE CREAM FILLING
orange zest (about 3 large oranges) Spread a thin layer of frosting on top Makes 1⅓ cups
5 large eggs (250 grams), room and sides of cake to create a crumb coat;
temperature refrigerate for 30 minutes. 1⅓ cups (320 grams) whole milk
3¾ cups (469 grams) unbleached cake flour 6. Divide 2 cups (457 grams) Creamy ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking powder Buttermilk Frosting between 2 small bowls. 1½ tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Add food coloring to 1 bowl, stirring until 2 teaspoons (6 grams) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda frosting is deep orange. Add food coloring 2 teaspoons (7 grams) tightly packed
1¼ cups (300 grams) whole buttermilk, to second bowl, stirring until frosting is light orange zest (about 1 large orange)
room temperature orange. Leave remaining frosting white. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup (60 grams) fresh orange juice, 7. Using a small offset spatula, spread 3 large egg yolks (56 grams)
room temperature deep orange frosting in an even layer over 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract bottom third of sides of cake. Spread light butter, cubed and softened
Simple Syrup (recipe follows) orange frosting over middle third of sides of ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract
Creamy Buttermilk Frosting (recipe follows) cake. Spread white frosting on top and top Orange gel food coloring
Orange Cream Filling (recipe follows) one-third of sides of cake. Holding a bench
Orange gel food coloring scraper or a large offset spatula flush against 1. Line a medium shallow baking dish or
Garnish: orange sprinkles sides of cake, scrape off excess frosting bowl with plastic wrap; place a fine-mesh
until sides are smooth. Using a small offset sieve inside.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray spatula, swirl top as desired. Using a bench 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk over
2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking scraper or a large offset spatula held flush medium heat until steaming. (Do not boil.)
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with against sides of cake, scrape frosting one 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
parchment paper. more time to give sides a smooth, finished cornstarch, flour, orange zest, and salt.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the look. Garnish with sprinkles, if desired. Whisk in egg yolks until well combined.
paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar, and (Mixture will be very thick.) Gradually
orange zest at medium-low speed just until SIMPLE SYRUP add half of warm milk to sugar mixture,
combined. Increase mixer speed to medium; Makes ⅓ cup whisking constantly. Add sugar mixture to
beat until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to remaining warm milk in pan. Bring to a boil
scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar over medium heat, whisking constantly.
beating well after each addition. ¼ cup (60 grams) water Cook, whisking constantly, until thickened
3. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, and mixture no longer tastes starchy, 3 to
baking powder, salt, and baking soda. In a 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and 4 minutes. Remove from heat.
medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, ¼ cup (60 grams) water over medium 4. Add butter to warm milk mixture in
orange juice, and vanilla. With mixer on heat, stirring occasionally, just until sugar two additions, stirring until combined; stir
low speed, gradually add flour mixture to dissolves. Remove from heat. Let cool in vanilla. Add food coloring until desired
butter mixture alternately with buttermilk completely before using. shade is reached. Pour and press mixture
mixture, beginning and ending with flour through fine-mesh sieve into prepared dish
mixture, beating until combined after each CREAMY BUTTERMILK FROSTING or bowl; smooth into a thin layer. Cover
addition and stopping to scrape sides of Makes about 7 cups with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing wrap
bowl. Divide batter between prepared pans; directly onto surface of pudding to prevent
using a small offset spatula, smooth tops. 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter, a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
Forcefully tap pans on a kitchen towel- softened thoroughly chilled, 2 to 3 hours or up to
lined counter several times to settle batter ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt overnight. Stir until softened and smooth
and release as many air bubbles as possible. 1 (2-pound) package (907 grams) before using.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in confectioners’ sugar
center comes out clean, 30 to 38 minutes. ½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract
Chocolate
Pudding Cake
CHOCOLATE PUDDING CAKE yolks, 1 tablespoon (6 grams) malt mix, and 1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake vanilla. With mixer on low speed, gradually temperature
add sugar mixture to flour mixture, beating ½ cup (47 grams) chocolate malt mix
If a malted milkshake transformed into a just until combined and stopping to scrape ¼ cup (21 grams) unsweetened cocoa
decadent layer cake, this would be it. The sides of bowl. Gradually add hot coffee, powder
layers of chocolaty cake are made with beating until combined and stopping to 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
rich dark coffee, sour cream, and chocolate scrape sides of bowl. Divide batter between 1 teaspoon (1 gram) espresso powder
malted milk. Each layer is then brushed with a prepared pans. Lightly tap pans on a
milk-chocolate malt mixture before receiving kitchen towel-lined counter a few times. 1. In the top of a double boiler, combine
a generous addition of creamy Chocolate 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in chocolate and butter. Cook over simmering
Pudding studded with finely chopped malted center comes out clean, 34 to 40 minutes. water, stirring occasionally, until melted
milk ball candies. Swoops of chocolate frosting (Do not open oven door or test cakes too and smooth. Remove from heat; let cool
and a garnish of chopped malted milk balls early.) Let cool in pans for 15 minutes. Run for 5 minutes.
make for a supremely mouthwatering cake. a knife around edges. Remove from pans, 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat
and let cool completely on a wire rack. confectioners’ sugar, sour cream, malt mix,
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour 5. Level cooled cake layers, if desired; cocoa, vanilla, and espresso powder at low
1 cup (85 grams) unsweetened cocoa discard parchment. Place 1 layer on a speed until smooth and well combined,
powder, plus more for dusting cake turntable or a serving plate. Using a stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Gradually
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) baking soda wooden pick, gently poke several holes in add melted chocolate mixture, beating
2 teaspoons (2 grams) espresso powder top of cake layer. until well combined and stopping to scrape
1¼ teaspoons (6.25 grams) baking powder 6. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining sides of bowl. Increase mixer speed to
1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt ¼ cup (60 grams) milk and remaining medium-low, and beat until smooth, well
2¼ cups (450 grams) granulated sugar 1 tablespoon (6 grams) malt mix. Brush half combined, and slightly fluffy, about
1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room of milk mixture onto cake layer. 1 minute. Use immediately.
temperature 7. Spoon ½ cup (142 grams) Silky
⅔ cup (149 grams) canola oil Chocolate Frosting into a pastry bag; cut CHOCOLATE PUDDING
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light a ½-inch opening in tip. Pipe a ½-inch-tall Makes about 1 cup
brown sugar border around edge of cake layer.
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room 8. Add finely chopped malted milk balls (if ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
temperature and divided using) to Chocolate Pudding; stir until well 2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch
2 large eggs (100 grams), room combined and mixture is spreadable. Spoon ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
temperature dollops of pudding all over top of cake ¾ cup (180 grams) heavy whipping
2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room layer; using a small offset spatula, gently cream
temperature spread evenly inside piped border. Top with ⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk
2 tablespoons (12 grams) chocolate malt remaining cake layer, flat side up. Using 2 ounces (57 grams) 60% cacao
mix, divided a wooden pick, gently poke several holes bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract in cake layer; brush with remaining milk (about ⅓ cup)
1¼ cups (300 grams) hot strong brewed mixture. Spread a thin layer of frosting on ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract
coffee sides and top of cake to create a crumb
Silky Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows) coat; refrigerate for 30 minutes. 1. In a medium saucepan, whisk together
¼ cup (33 grams) finely chopped malted 9. Spread and swoop remaining Silky sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk in cream
milk balls (optional) Chocolate Frosting on top and sides of and milk. Whisk in chocolate. Bring to a
Chocolate Pudding (recipe follows) cake as desired. Just before serving, garnish boil over medium heat. Cook, whisking
Garnish: chopped malted milk balls with chopped malted milk balls, if desired. constantly, for 3 minutes. Remove from
(See Note.) heat, and stir in vanilla. Transfer to a
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter medium glass bowl, and cover with plastic
2 (9-inch) round cake pans. Line bottom Note: Malted milk ball garnish may get a bit wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface
of pans with parchment paper. Dust sides chewy after sitting for long periods of time. If of pudding to prevent a skin from forming.
with cocoa, tapping out excess. assembling cake ahead of time, be sure to chop Refrigerate until completely chilled, 2 to
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, cocoa, and add milk ball garnish just before serving. 3 hours or up to overnight. (See Note.) Stir
baking soda, espresso powder, baking until softened and smooth before using.
powder, and salt. Whisk to ensure flour SILKY CHOCOLATE FROSTING
mixture is well combined; transfer to the Makes about 5 cups Note: You may want to let Chocolate
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle Pudding refrigerated for longer periods of
attachment. 8 ounces (226 grams) 60% cacao time stand at room temperature until slightly
3. In a large bowl, whisk together bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped softened, about 30 minutes. This can make it
granulated sugar, sour cream, oil, brown ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, cubed even easier to spread.
sugar, ¼ cup (60 grams) milk, eggs, egg 6¾ cups (810 grams) confectioners’ sugar,
sifted
BANANA PUDDING a few times to settle batter and release any 1. In a medium saucepan, combine sugar
HUMMINGBIRD CAKE air bubbles. and ½ cup (120 grams) water. Bring to a
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in boil over high heat, being careful not to
center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. splash sides of pan and stirring to help
We’ve upped the game for hummingbird Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove sugar dissolve. (Do not stir once mixture
cake. Traditional cake layers baked with from pans, and let cool completely on wire starts to boil.) Cook until an instant-read
ripe mashed banana, crushed pineapple, racks. thermometer registers 240°F (116°C).
and toasted pecans are filled with vanilla 5. Level cooled cake layers, if desired; 2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer
bean pudding and sliced ripe bananas, discard parchment. Place 1 layer, cut fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg
creating a mind-blowing marriage of two side up, on a cake turntable or a serving whites, cream of tartar, and salt at medium
dessert favorites: all the classic flavors plate. Spoon 1 cup (140 grams) Vanilla speed until soft peaks form.
of hummingbird cake with a rich banana Italian Buttercream into a pastry bag; cut 3. With mixer on medium speed, pour
pudding vibe. Enrobed in Vanilla Italian a ½-inch opening in tip. Pipe a ½-inch- hot sugar syrup between side of bowl and
Buttercream, this cake wouldn’t be complete tall border around edge of layer. Arrange whisk attachment in a slow, steady stream.
without crumbly vanilla wafer cookies and banana slices in a single layer within piped Increase mixer speed to high; beat until
more fresh banana slices. border. Spread half of Vanilla Cream Filling stiff peaks form and bowl and meringue are
(about 164 grams) on top of bananas. Top relatively cool to the touch, 8 to
2 cups (529 grams) mashed ripe banana with second cake layer. Pipe a ½-inch- 10 minutes.
1 (8-ounce) can (227 grams) crushed tall border around edge of layer. Arrange 4. Switch to the paddle attachment. With
pineapple in juice banana slices in a single layer within piped mixer on medium speed, gradually add
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar border. (Reserve any leftover banana butter, a few cubes at a time, beating until
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light slices for garnish or another use.) Spread combined after each addition. (Mixture
brown sugar remaining filling on top of bananas. Top will look very loose to start, and may even
1 cup (224 grams) canola oil with remaining cake layer, cut side down. look broken at one point, but buttercream
3 large eggs (150 grams), room Using a large offset spatula, spread a thin will come together. [See Notes.]) Beat
temperature layer of buttercream on top and sides of in vanilla bean paste. Beat until light
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste cake to create a crumb coat; refrigerate for and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour 30 minutes. scrape sides of bowl. Use immediately, or
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda 6. Reserve 1½ cups (212 grams) Vanilla refrigerate in an airtight container. Let
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Italian Buttercream. Spread remaining refrigerated buttercream come to room
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon buttercream on top and sides of cake; temperature, and rewhip using the whisk
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg refrigerate for 20 minutes. Garnish attachment until silky smooth before using.
1 cup (113 grams) chopped toasted bottom third of cake with crushed vanilla (See Notes.)
pecans wafers, if desired, gently pressing crumbs
Vanilla Italian Buttercream (recipe follows) into sides. *We used Heilala Pure Vanilla Bean Paste.
3 to 4 large unpeeled bananas (540 to 7. Place reserved buttercream in a pastry
720 grams), peeled and cut crosswise bag fitted with a medium open star tip Notes: If meringue is too warm when butter
into ¼-inch-thick slices (Wilton 1M). Pipe swirls of buttercream is added and mixture is too loose, place
Vanilla Cream Filling (recipe follows) around top edge of cake. Garnish with the whole bowl in the refrigerator for a few
Garnish: finely crushed vanilla wafers, banana slices, whole vanilla wafers, and minutes to help the mixture firm back up.
bananas slices, whole vanilla wafers crushed vanilla wafers, if desired. Return bowl to stand mixer, and proceed with
recipe as directed, repeating procedure as
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray VANILLA ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM necessary.
3 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking Makes about 7½ cups
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with If butter was too cold when added and is
parchment paper. 2 cups (400 grams) extra-fine forming small lumps in buttercream, gently
2. In a large bowl, whisk together mashed granulated sugar warm bowl over simmering water just until
banana, pineapple with juice, sugars, oil, ½ cup (120 grams) water edges start to melt. For a gentler approach,
eggs, and vanilla bean paste until well 1 cup (240 grams) egg whites, room warm bowl with a hot towel to help soften
combined. temperature (about 8 large the butter. Proceed with recipe as directed,
3. In another large bowl, whisk together egg whites) repeating procedure as necessary.
flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and ½ teaspoon (2 grams) cream of tartar
nutmeg. Gradually add flour mixture to ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt If buttercream breaks or looks curdled, keep
banana mixture, stirring until combined. 2½ cups (567 grams) unsalted butter, beating it; it should eventually come together.
Fold in pecans. Divide batter among cubed and very softened
prepared pans (about 620 grams each), 2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean
smoothing tops with a small offset spatula. paste*
Tap pans on a kitchen towel-lined counter

cover recipe
VANILLA CREAM FILLING
Makes about 1¾ cups
1⅓ cups (320 grams) whole milk

¼ cup (50 grams) extra-fine granulated
sugar
1½ tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
2 teaspoons (6 grams) all-purpose flour
3 large egg yolks (56 grams)
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
butter, cubed and softened
½ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla bean paste
1. Line a medium shallow baking dish or

bowl with plastic wrap; place a fine-mesh
sieve inside.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk over
medium heat until steaming. (Do not boil.)
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
cornstarch, flour, and salt. Whisk in egg
yolks until well combined. (Mixture will
be very thick.) Gradually add half of warm
milk to sugar mixture, whisking constantly.
Add sugar mixture to remaining warm
milk in pan. Bring to a boil over medium
heat, whisking constantly. Cook, whisking
constantly, until thickened and mixture
no longer tastes starchy, 3 to 4 minutes.
Remove from heat.
4. Add butter to warm milk mixture in two
additions, stirring until combined; stir in
vanilla bean paste. Pour and press mixture
through fine-mesh sieve into prepared dish
or bowl; smooth into a thin layer. Cover
with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing wrap
directly onto surface of pudding to prevent
a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled, 2 to 3 hours or up to
overnight. Stir until softened and smooth
before using.
PRO TIP
When decorating with fresh banana
slices, lightly coat the slices in fresh
lemon juice to prevent the fruit from
browning. To accomplish this, lay the
freshly cut banana slices flat on a piece
of parchment paper. Using a pastry
brush, gently brush the slices with
fresh lemon juice. Turn the slices over,
brush the opposite side. Use the lemon
juice sparingly, though. Alternatively,
garnish the cake with banana slices and
whole vanilla wafers just before serving
for optimal freshness. •
Lemon-Blueberry Pastry Rolls
page 76
ROUGH PUFF
AND READY
TRADITIONAL PUFF PASTRY, PÂTE FEUILLETÉE, IS MADE BY ROLLING, CHILLING, REROLLING, AND RECHILLING
DOUGH OVER AND OVER AGAIN, CREATING LAYERS UPON LAYERS OF BUTTER AND DOUGH.
A FINAL COUNT OF 73 TO A WHOPPING 729 PAPER-THIN LAYERS IS THE PASTRY CHEF’S GOAL. AS THE
LAYERS OF COLD BUTTER HIT THE HEAT OF THE OVEN, STEAM CAUSES THE DOUGH TO PUFF, CREATING
THE ICONIC BUTTERY FLAKINESS SEEN IN PASTRIES SUCH AS CROISSANTS. ALTHOUGH OUR ADMIRATION
FOR THE ART OF PUFF IS STRONG, WE DON’T ALWAYS HAVE THE TIME TO PULL TOGETHER A CLASSIC
PUFF PASTRY DOUGH, AND FOR THAT, WE HAVE DEVELOPED THREE ROUGH PUFF RECIPES THAT COME
TOGETHER FASTER THAN THE TRADITIONAL WITHOUT SKIMPING ON LAMINATION.
TRICIA MANZANERO
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
FOOD STYLING BY MEGAN LANKFORD / STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
Chocolate-Hazelnut Bear Claws
page 77

Smoked Salmon-Asparagus Tarts
page 77
A Rough Puff How-To: The Letter Fold
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 15x8-inch rectangle, 2. With one short side closest to you, fold top third of dough over
lightly flouring surface and top of dough as needed. center third of dough, leaving bottom third exposed.
3. Fold bottom third of dough over top of dough, as if you were 4. Folding the dough like a letter stacks the pieces of butter within
folding a letter to fit into an envelope. the dough. This repeated stacking creates layers of butter, allowing
for the signature “puff” when the butter steams in the oven.

LEMON-BLUEBERRY PASTRY ROLLS
Makes 24 pastries
These puff pastry pinwheels are flaky, sweet, and tangy. With all the familiarity of
buttery palmiers, these round treats boast dynamic flavors from lemon zest and
crushed freeze-dried blueberries.
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour

1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup (120 grams) ice water
⅓ cup (14 grams) freeze-dried blueberries, finely crushed
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (12 grams) packed lemon zest (about 4 medium lemons)
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled for 10 minutes
Lemon Glaze (recipe follows)
Garnish: lemon zest
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat flour,
cold butter, and salt at low speed just until butter is coated with flour. With
mixer on low speed, add ½ cup (120 grams) ice water in a slow, steady stream,
beating just until dough comes together, about 1 minute. (There will still be
large pieces of butter.) On a lightly floured surface, shape dough into a 6-inch
square. Wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly
flouring surface and top of dough as needed. Fold dough into thirds, like a
letter. Rotate dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch rectangle, and fold into
thirds, like a letter. Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and
refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (See Note on page 78.)
3. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
parchment paper.
4. In a small bowl, stir together blueberries, sugar, and lemon zest until
fragrant and well combined.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 20x10-inch rectangle. Brush
dough with melted butter, leaving a ½-inch border on one long side; sprinkle
butter with blueberry mixture. Starting with long side opposite border, roll up
dough, jelly roll style; place seam side down. Using a serrated knife dipped in
flour, gently slice into 24 rolls (about ¾ inch thick each); wipe and flour knife
between cuts as needed. Place, cut side up, 2 inches apart on prepared pans,
tucking loose ends under slices to secure.
6. Bake until lightly golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on pans on wire
racks for at least 15 minutes before serving, or let cool to room temperature.
Drizzle with Lemon Glaze. Garnish with lemon zest, if desired.
LEMON GLAZE
Makes about ¾ cup
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ sugar, sifted

5 tablespoons (75 grams) heavy whipping cream
½ teaspoon (1 gram) packed lemon zest
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients until smooth and well combined.
Use immediately.
CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT BEAR 2 (15x5½-inch) rectangles; cut each half SMOKED SALMON-ASPARAGUS
CLAWS into 3 (5½x5-inch) rectangles. TARTS
Makes 6 pastries 6. Position 1 dough rectangle with a 5-inch Makes 8 pastries
side closest to you. Place 1 filling rectangle
Traditionally a yeast-leavened Danish pastry on lower half of rectangle, leaving ¾-inch A savory take on puff pastry, Smoked
with eye-catching lamination, making the border. Brush all edges of dough with egg; Salmon-Asparagus Tarts are perfect for any
dough for bear claws could be an all-day fold dough over filling to make 5-inch meal, from a light and flaky replacement for
affair. Thankfully, with our quick rough puff, sides meet, pressing edges firmly to seal. your favorite lox-topped everything bagel in
you can still get all the flakiness you love but Using a pizza wheel, trim ⅛- to 1⁄16-inch the morning to a colorful appetizer for guests
with no rise time and extra-fast lamination. of dough off sealed edges to further seal. or family. The rectangular shape shows off
Chocolate and hazelnut come together Using a paring knife, make 4 (¾-inch-long) layers of gorgeous lamination, and people will
to make a rich and nutty filling. A final equally spaced cuts along long, sealed think you spent all day making them—but
sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar and these edge of dough, being careful not to cut don’t worry, your secret is safe with us.
homemade bear claws will take hold of your through to filling. Repeat procedure with
taste buds. remaining dough rectangles and remaining 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
filling. Place at least ¾ to 1 inch apart on 1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour remaining prepared pan, gently curving to butter, cubed
1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted spread out cuts. Freeze for 10 minutes. 2¼ teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt,
butter, cubed 7. Brush tops of dough with egg; sprinkle divided
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt with pearl sugar. ½ cup (120 grams) ice water
½ cup (120 grams) ice water 8. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven 8 ounces (226 grams) cream cheese,
Chocolate-Hazelnut Filling (recipe temperature to 375°F (190°C), softened
follows) and bake until puffed and golden brown, ¼ cup (24 grams) finely shredded
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten about 10 minutes. Let cool on pans for Parmesan cheese
Swedish pearl sugar, for sprinkling 15 minutes. 1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
2 tablespoons (2 grams) chopped fresh
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT FILLING dill
the paddle attachment, beat flour, cold Makes ⅔ cup ½ teaspoon (1 gram) garlic powder
butter, and salt at low speed just until 40 (3½-inch-long) spears (140 to
butter is coated with flour. With mixer on ½ cup (48 grams) finely ground hazelnut 160 grams) trimmed medium fresh
low speed, add ½ cup (120 grams) ice water flour asparagus
in a slow, steady stream, beating just until 3 tablespoons (21 grams) confectioners’ 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
dough comes together, about 1 minute. sugar Everything bagel seasoning, for sprinkling
(There will still be large pieces of butter.) ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 4 ounces (113 grams) thinly sliced
On a lightly floured surface, shape dough ⅓ cup (92 grams) chocolate hazelnut smoked salmon
into a 6-inch square. Wrap in plastic wrap; spread* Pickled Red Onion (recipe follows)
refrigerate for 30 minutes. 1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough temperature 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly flouring 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted the paddle attachment, beat flour, cold
surface and top of dough as needed. Fold butter, melted butter, and 2 teaspoons (6 grams) salt at
dough into thirds, like a letter. Rotate low speed just until butter is coated with
dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch 1. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, flour. With mixer on low speed, add ½ cup
rectangle, and fold into thirds, like a letter. confectioners’ sugar, and salt. Add (120 grams) ice water in a slow, steady
Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in chocolate hazelnut spread, egg yolk, and stream, beating just until dough comes
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least melted butter; stir until well combined, together, about 1 minute. (There will still
1 hour. (See Note on page 78.) kneading together by hand toward end if be large pieces of butter.) On a lightly
3. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line needed. (Mixture will be quite thick.) Use floured surface, shape dough into a 6-inch
2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment immediately. square. Wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for
paper. 30 minutes.
4. Divide Chocolate-Hazelnut Filling into *We used Nutella. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
6 portions (about 2 tablespoons [about into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly flouring
34 grams] each), and place on a prepared surface and top of dough as needed. Fold
pan; shape each portion into a 3¼x1¾-inch dough into thirds, like a letter. Rotate
rectangle, and cover with plastic wrap. dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough rectangle, and fold into thirds, like a letter.
into a 16x11½-inch rectangle. Trim edges Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in
to create a 15x11-inch rectangle. Cut plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least
rectangle in half lengthwise to create 1 hour. (See Note on page 78.)

3. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line
2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment
paper.
4. In a medium bowl, stir together cream
cheese, Parmesan, egg yolk, dill, garlic
powder, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt
until well combined.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
into a 17x10½-inch rectangle. Trim edges
to create a 16x10-inch rectangle. Cut
rectangle in half lengthwise to create
2 (16x5-inch) rectangles; cut each half into
4 (5x4-inch) rectangles. Using the tip of
a small, sharp knife, score a ¾-inch border
within each rectangle. Gently transfer
dough rectangles to prepared pans, spacing
at least 1 inch apart. Freeze for 15 minutes.
6. Divide cream cheese mixture among
dough rectangles (about 2 tablespoons
[about 30 grams] each), spreading evenly
within scored border; top each with
5 asparagus spears (15 to 20 grams). Brush
exposed borders with egg. Sprinkle with
everything bagel seasoning.
7. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 375°F (190°C), and bake
until puffed and golden brown, 6 to
10 minutes. Let cool on pans for 5 minutes.
Top with smoked salmon and Pickled Red
Onion.
Note: Rough puff pastry dough refrigerated

for longer time spans may need to stand at
room temperature until slightly softened,
10 to 20 minutes, before rolling.
PICKLED RED ONION

Makes ⅓ cup
½ cup (66 grams) ¼-inch-sliced red

onion
½ cup (120 grams) white wine vinegar
½ cup (120 grams) water
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated
sugar
½ teaspoon coriander seeds (optional)
1. In a small heatproof bowl, place onion.

2. In a small saucepan, combine vinegar,
½ cup (120 grams) water, sugar, salt, and
coriander seeds (if using). Bring to a boil
over medium-high heat; cook, stirring
occasionally, for 2 minutes. Remove from
heat, and pour over onion. Let cool for
30 minutes; refrigerate until ready to use.
(Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated
in an airtight container.) •
Parker House Round Rolls
page 87
PARKER HOUSE
roll redux
HAILING FROM THE HISTORIC PARKER HOUSE HOTEL (NOW OMNI PARKER HOUSE) IN BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS,
NEARLY 150 YEARS AGO, THESE ROLLS ARE A YEASTED BREAD FAVORITE. IF YOU HAVE EVER WONDERED WHAT
MAKES PARKER HOUSE ROLLS SO IRRESISTIBLE, WE ARE GOING TO COME OUT AND SAY IT: IT’S BUTTER. CUBES
OF BUTTER MIXED INTO THE DOUGH AND MELTED BUTTER BRUSHED ON TOP OF THE ROLLS BEFORE AND AFTER
BAKING HELP CREATE THE RECIPE THAT HAS BEEN A FAVORITE SINCE THE 1870S.
Parker House Rolls

page 85
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

FOOD STYLING BYMEGAN LANKFORD
STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAGIEL
Parker House Square Rolls
page 87
Parker House Round Rolls
page 87

Honey-Orange Parker House Rolls
page 88
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium- dough, discarding scraps. Gently stretch
Makes 24 rolls low speed for 2 minutes, stopping to scrape each circle into a 3x2-inch oval; place
sides of bowl. Add egg; beat at medium- smoothest side of oval facing downward.
Legend has it that Parker House rolls were high speed for 2 minutes, stopping to Brush each oval with melted butter. Using
created by accident as a disgruntled baker scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low the back of small knife, make a crease
slammed a tray of rolls in the oven. The jolted speed, gradually add 2⅔ cups (333 grams) crosswise in center of each oval; fold ovals
rolls emerged with their signature folded flour, beating just until combined and in half along crease, pressing to seal. Place
appearance, and the guests raved about stopping to scrape sides of bowl. at least 1 inch apart on a prepared pan.
them. It’s that pocket-like fold that creates 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Repeat procedure with remaining dough.
a crispy golden exterior with a steaming hot Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
and tender interior. somewhat sticky dough forms, 6 to place (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in
8 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of size and dough holds an indentation when
4 to 4¼ cups (500 to 531 grams) bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining poked, 20 to 25 minutes.
all-purpose flour, divided ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon 7. Brush tops of rolls with melted butter.
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. 8. Bake, one batch at a time, until lightly
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt (Dough should pass the windowpane test golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Brush warm rolls
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast [see Note] but may still stick slightly to with remaining melted butter, and sprinkle
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk sides of bowl.) Turn out dough onto a very with sea salt. Serve warm.
⅔ cup (160 grams) water lightly floured surface, and gently shape
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed into a ball. Note: To use the windowpane test to check
1 large egg (50 grams), room 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. dough for proper gluten development, lightly
temperature Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, melted Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
Flaked sea salt, for sprinkling place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, from the center. If the dough is ready, you
35 to 50 minutes. will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 5. Position oven rack in top third of oven. translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
the paddle attachment, beat 1⅓ cups Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
(167 grams) flour, sugar, kosher salt, and 2 light-colored metal baking sheets with and test again.
yeast at medium-low speed until well parchment paper.
combined. 6. Punch down dough; cover and let
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ⅔ cup stand for 5 minutes. Divide dough in half,
(160 grams) water, and cubed butter over covering 1 portion with plastic wrap. On
medium heat until butter is melted and an a lightly floured surface, roll uncovered
instant-read thermometer registers 120°F half into an 11-inch square, about ¼ inch
(49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk thick. Using a 2¾-inch round cutter, cut
Folding Classic Parker House Rolls
1. After cutting dough into 2¾-inch rounds, 2. Using the back of a small knife, make a 3. Before folding, brush the top of each oval
gently stretch each circle into a 3x2-inch crease crosswise in the center of each oval. with melted butter. Fold each oval in half
oval, placing the smoothest side facing Take care not cut through the dough. The along the crease, pressing to seal.
downward. indentation will mark where to fold the roll.

PARKER HOUSE SQUARE ROLLS 5. Position oven rack in top third of oven. 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
Makes 24 rolls Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line butter, melted
2 light-colored metal baking sheets with
Whether you prefer the clamshell shape of parchment paper. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
classic Parker House Rolls or are hip to be 6. Punch down dough; cover and let the paddle attachment, beat 1⅓ cups
square with Parker House Square Rolls, both stand for 5 minutes. Divide dough in half, (167 grams) flour, sugar, salt, and yeast at
versions boast golden exteriors and irresistibly covering 1 portion with plastic wrap. On medium-low speed until well combined.
tender interiors. For square-shaped rolls, you a lightly floured surface, roll uncovered 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk,
won’t be left with any dough scraps. half into a 12x8-inch rectangle, about ⅔ cup (160 grams) water, and butter over
¼ inch thick. Turn dough so smoothest medium heat until butter is melted and an
4 to 4¼ cups (500 to 531 grams) side is facing downward, and reroll into a instant-read thermometer registers 120°F
all-purpose flour, divided 12x8-inch rectangle, if necessary. Using (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut dough mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium-
1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt into 12 (4x2-inch) rectangles. Brush low speed for 2 minutes, stopping to scrape
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast each rectangle with melted butter. Using sides of bowl. Add 1 egg (50 grams); beat
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk the back of a small knife, make a crease at medium-high speed for 2 minutes,
⅔ cup (160 grams) water crosswise and slightly off center on each stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed rectangle (about 1¾ inches from one short mixer on low speed, gradually add
1 large egg (50 grams), room side). Fold rectangles along crease so top 2⅔ cups (333 grams) flour, beating just
temperature half hangs over bottom half by ¼ inch; until combined and stopping to scrape
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, gently press to seal. Place rolls at least sides of bowl.
melted 1 inch apart on a prepared pan. Repeat 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
Flaked sea salt, for sprinkling procedure with remaining dough. Cover Beat at medium-low speed until a soft,
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place somewhat sticky dough forms, 6 to
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in size 8 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
the paddle attachment, beat 1⅓ cups and dough holds an indentation when bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining
(167 grams) flour, sugar, kosher salt, and poked, 20 to 25 minutes. ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon
yeast at medium-low speed until well 7. Brush rolls with melted butter. (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky.
combined. 8. Bake, one batch at a time, until lightly (Dough should pass the windowpane test
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ⅔ cup golden, 12 to 18 minutes. Brush warm rolls [see Note on page 85] but may still stick
(160 grams) water, and cubed butter over with melted butter, and sprinkle with sea slightly to sides of bowl.) Turn out dough
medium heat until butter is melted and an salt. Serve warm. onto a very lightly floured surface, and
instant-read thermometer registers 120°F gently shape into a ball.
(49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk PARKER HOUSE ROUND ROLLS 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium- Makes 12 rolls Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
low speed for 2 minutes, stopping to scrape Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
sides of bowl. Add egg; beat at medium- The allure of Parker House rolls has always place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size,
high speed for 2 minutes, stopping to been the buttery interior, and in this 35 to 50 minutes.
scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low variation, the dough balls get an extra helping 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
speed, gradually add 2⅔ cups (333 grams) of butter before they undergo their final a 13x9-inch baking sheet with parchment
flour, beating just until combined and proofing. The dough is wrapped around a cube paper.
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. of butter, which melts and steams when the 6. Punch down dough; cover and let
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. rolls hit the heat of the oven, providing even stand for 5 minutes. Divide dough into
Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, more flavor and tenderness. They’re almost 12 portions (about 80 grams each); roll
somewhat sticky dough forms, 6 to too good to be true. into balls, cover, and let stand for
8 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of 10 minutes.
bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining 4 to 4¼ cups (500 to 531 grams) 7. Gently flatten 1 dough ball into a 3¾- to
¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, divided 4-inch circle; place 1 butter cube in center,
(8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar and pinch dough closed around it. Gently
(Dough should pass the windowpane test 1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt roll into a ball. Repeat with remaining
[see Note on page 85] but may still stick 1 (0.25 ounce) package (7 grams) dough and remaining butter cubes. Place
slightly to sides of bowl.) Turn out dough instant yeast* dough balls 11⁄2 inches apart on prepared
onto a very lightly floured surface, and ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk pan. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-
gently shape into a ball. ⅔ cup (160 grams) water free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter size and dough holds an indentation when
Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. 2 large eggs (100 grams), room poked, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free temperature and divided 8. In a small bowl, whisk remaining 1 egg
place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted (50 grams). Brush rolls with egg wash.
35 to 50 minutes. butter, cut into 12 cubes and softened 9. Bake until golden brown and an instant-

read thermometer inserted in center 8 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
registers 190°F (88°C), 20 to 25 minutes, bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining
loosely covering with foil to prevent excess ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon
browning, if necessary. Brush warm rolls (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky.
with melted butter. Serve warm. (Dough should pass the windowpane test ROUND
[see Note on page 85] but may still stick
*We used Red Star® Quick Rise Yeast. slightly to sides of bowl.) Turn out dough
onto a very lightly floured surface, and
HONEY-ORANGE PARKER gently shape into a ball.
HOUSE ROLLS 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
Makes 20 rolls Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
In our sweet rendition of Parker House rolls, place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size,
rectangular pieces of the enriched dough are 35 to 50 minutes.
brushed with orange-honey butter and rolled 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
into spirals. This creates sweetly laminated 2 (17½x12½-inch) rimmed baking sheets
layers and mesmerizing swirls. Once the hot with parchment paper.
rolls leave the oven, a final brush of honey- 6. In a medium saucepan, heat honey,
orange butter gives the bread a sweet, glossy orange zest, remaining ¼ cup (56.5 grams)
sheen. butter, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt
over medium heat, stirring frequently,
4 to 4¼ cups (500 to 531 grams) until butter is melted and mixture is well
all-purpose flour, divided combined. Remove from heat; stir in
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar almond extract. Set aside. CLASSIC
1 tablespoon (9 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon 7. Punch down dough; cover and let
kosher salt, divided stand for 5 minutes. Divide dough in half,
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast covering 1 portion with plastic wrap. On a
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk lightly floured surface, roll uncovered half
⅔ cup (160 grams) water into a 10x9-inch rectangle. Turn dough
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, so smoothest side is facing downward,
divided and reroll into a 10x9-inch rectangle, if
2 large eggs (100 grams), room necessary. Using a pastry wheel or pizza
temperature and divided cutter, cut dough into 10 (4½x2-inch)
3 tablespoons (63 grams) clover honey rectangles, trimming edges slightly, if
½ teaspoon (1 gram) packed orange zest necessary. Brush each rectangle with
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract honey mixture, leaving a ¾-inch border
on one short side. Starting with short
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with side opposite border, roll up strips, jelly
the paddle attachment, beat 1⅓ cups roll style, and pinch seam to seal. Place,
(167 grams) flour, sugar, 1 tablespoon seam side down, at least 1½ inches apart
(9 grams) salt, and yeast at medium-low on a prepared pan. Repeat procedure with
speed until well combined. remaining dough. Reserve remaining honey
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ⅔ cup mixture. Cover dough, and let rise in a
(160 grams) water, and ¼ cup (56.5 grams) warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
butter over medium heat until butter is nearly doubled in size and dough holds an
melted and an instant-read thermometer indentation when poked, about
registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). 25 minutes.
Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture; 8. In a small bowl, whisk remaining 1 egg
beat at medium-low speed for 2 minutes, (50 grams). Brush top of dough with egg HONEY-ORANGE
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add 1 egg wash.
(50 grams); beat at medium-high speed 9. Bake, one batch at a time, until light
for 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of golden brown, 13 to 16 minutes, loosely
bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually covering with foil to prevent excess
add 2⅔ cups (333 grams) flour, beating browning, if necessary. Brush and serve
just until combined and stopping to scrape with any remaining honey mixture. •
sides of bowl. SQUARE
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
Beat at medium-low speed until a soft,
somewhat sticky dough forms, 6 to
FROM THREE SEEMINGLY SIMPLE
SAY INGREDIENTS—MILK, SALT, AND CULTURE—

COMES A BOUNDLESS SELECTION OF
CHEESES THAT RANGE IN FLAVOR,
APPEARANCE, FIRMNESS, AND AGE. THESE
RECIPES WILL HAVE YOU EXPERIENCING
CHEESE IN ALL FORMS.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY LAURA CRANDALL
FOOD STYLING BYMEGAN LANKFORD / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Cheese Breadsticks
page 95

Spinach Khachapuris
page 97
Parmesan-Herb Buttermilk Bread
page 98

Cheese-Thyme Cookies
page 98
CHEESE BREADSTICKS 1. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking sheet with
Makes 16 breadsticks parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flours, 2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams)
If you’re looking to make a homemade version of that cheesy favorite salt, yeast, and sugar. Make a well in center; add 1¼ cups
from your beloved pizza establishment, this recipe delivers. Our dough (300 grams) warm water and oil. Using a spatula or wooden
receives a chewy boost from semolina flour, a flour commonly used in spoon, stir until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out dough onto a
pasta because of its fantastic elasticity. Then the dough is bathed in lightly floured surface. Using floured hands, flatten dough until
melted butter, garlic, and herbs before getting topped with a trio of about 1 inch thick. Fold dough in half toward you; using heels of
cheeses. Whole-milk mozzarella is classically gooey and stretchy while your hands, push dough away from you. Turn 90 degrees, and
Gruyère and Parmesan boast earthy and nutty tones, delivering the repeat procedure until smooth and elastic, 5 to 6 minutes, lightly
perfect shareable snack you may not want to share. flouring surface and hands as needed. (See PRO TIP.)
3. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease
2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
1 cup (155 grams) semolina flour until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
3 teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt, divided 4. In a small bowl, stir together melted butter, garlic, Italian
2 teaspoons (6 grams) instant yeast seasoning, and remaining ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) salt.
2 teaspoons (8 grams) granulated sugar 5. Punch down dough, and let stand for 5 minutes. Turn out dough
1¼ cups (300 grams) warm water (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) onto a lightly floured surface, and roll into a 16x11-inch oval. Place
2 tablespoons (28 grams) extra-virgin olive oil on prepared pan. (Remeasure to make sure dough is still 16x11
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, melted inches.) Dock dough all over 1 inch apart. Brush dough with butter
1 tablespoon (10 grams) minced garlic mixture. Sprinkle with mozzarella and Gruyère.
½ teaspoon dried Italian seasoning, plus more for sprinkling 6. Bake until bottom crust is golden brown and cheese is melted,
2 cups (226 grams) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with Parmesan
1 cup (113 grams) shredded Gruyère cheese and Italian seasoning. Cut in half lengthwise, and cut each half into
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for sprinkling 2-inch sticks. Serve hot with marinara sauce.
Marinara sauce, to serve
PRO TIP
This recipe calls for steady kneading. Don’t rush—you
can go from smooth to tearing the dough pretty quickly.
Go slow and pay attention to your dough. Re-flour your
hands when the dough tears as you pull your hands away.
You will need to re-flour your hands and surface a lot in
the beginning and sparingly toward the end. It starts to
get smooth around 4 minutes, but it is not elastic yet.
Knead for about 1 minute more, and it gets smoother
and elastic. Perform a finger dent test to make sure the
dough is ready: gently press your finger about ½ inch into
the surface. If your dough has been properly kneaded,
you should be able to watch the dough spring back
completely.

SPINACH KHACHAPURIS 6 large egg yolks (112 grams) 7. Spoon cheese mixture onto ovals
Makes 6 khachapuris Garnish: unsalted butter, chopped fresh (about 112 grams each). Spread cheese
parsley mixture, leaving a 1-inch border around
Ajaria, an autonomous republic in Georgia, edges. Twist and roll dough on each side
is known for a special boat, but it’s not one 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk of cheese mixture toward center to form
that sails the Black Sea. This golden vessel, together 4 cups (508 grams) flour, sugar, a crust, slightly overlapping filling. Pinch
called a khachapuri, is crafted from soft yeast, and salt by hand. Add 1 cup ends together; twist ends, and slightly
bread dough and emerges from the oven with (240 grams) warm water, warm milk, and tuck under to form a boat shape. Cover
a pool of melted cheese. In our version, sweet oil; using the paddle attachment, beat at and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
mozzarella, nutty fontina, and salty feta low speed until a shaggy dough forms. (75°F/24°C) until puffed, about
crumbles get paired with our fresh Sautéed 2. Switch to the dough hook attachment, 20 minutes.
Spinach. The proper way to experience this and beat at low speed until dough is 8. Preheat oven to 375° (190°C).
masterpiece is to use an edge of torn-off smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, 12 to 9. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
bread to swirl the butter and egg yolk into the 14 minutes; add up to remaining ⅓ cup 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water. Using a pastry
melty, hot cheese. (42 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at brush, brush dough with egg wash.
a time, if dough is too sticky. 10. Bake until dough is golden, 22 to
4 to 4⅓ cups (508 to 550 grams) bread 3. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough 26 minutes. Using the back of a spoon,
flour in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover make an indentation in cheese mixture.
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated and let rise in a warm, draft-free place Place 1 egg yolk in each indentation. Bake
sugar (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, until edges of yolks just start to set, 2 to
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast 45 minutes to 1 hour. 4 minutes more. Garnish with butter and
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt 4. In a medium bowl, stir together cheeses. parsley, if desired. Serve immediately.
1 cup (240 grams) warm water Stir in Sautéed Spinach, lemon juice, salt,
(120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use. SAUTÉED SPINACH
½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk 5. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment Makes about 1 cup
(120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) paper.
2 tablespoons (24 grams) olive oil 6. Punch down dough, and let stand for 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted
1½ cups (170 grams) shredded whole-milk 5 minutes. Turn out onto a lightly floured butter
mozzarella cheese surface, and divide into 6 portions (about 2 tablespoons (20 grams) minced garlic
1½ cups (170 grams) shredded fontina 155 grams each). Shape 1 portion into an 1 (10-ounce) container (284 grams)
cheese oval; press flat. (Keep remaining dough fresh baby spinach
1½ cups (170 grams) crumbled feta covered to prevent it from drying out.) 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
cheese Roll into a 9x5-inch oval, flouring surface 2 teaspoons (10 grams) fresh lemon
Sautéed Spinach (recipe follows) as needed. Place on a prepared pan. (Make juice
2 teaspoons (10 grams) fresh lemon sure oval is still 9x5 inches.) Repeat with ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black
juice remaining dough, placing 3 ovals on each pepper
¼ teaspoon kosher salt prepared pan. (It is OK that they are close ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper together; after final shaping, they will be
1 large egg (50 grams) far enough apart for baking.) Cover and let 1. In a large skillet, melt butter over
1 teaspoon (5 grams) water stand for 15 minutes. medium heat. Add garlic; cook, stirring
constantly, for 1 minute. Add spinach,
tossing to coat, and cook until wilted. Stir
in salt, lemon juice, and peppers. Pour
into fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl,
and let cool to room temperature. Press
mixture between paper towels to remove
all excess moisture.
PARMESAN-HERB BUTTERMILK powder, baking soda, and peppers. Whisk in ⅛ teaspoon smoked paprika
BREAD 1 cup (80 grams) cheese, parsley, and dill. ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper
Makes 1 (81⁄2x4½-inch) loaf 3. In a large bowl, whisk together 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
buttermilk, melted butter, and egg. Add
The classic flavors of ranch dressing— flour mixture to buttermilk mixture, 1. Line a baking sheet with parchment
buttermilk, herbs, onion, and garlic—come stirring until just combined. Pour batter paper.
together in this delicious Parmesan quick into prepared pan; sprinkle 2 tablespoons 2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
bread. Serve slices warm with butter, or top (10 grams) cheese on top. place cold butter, cheeses, thyme, salt,
with your favorite fillings for an open-faced 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in dry mustard, paprika, and pepper; pulse
sandwich. center comes out clean and an instant-read until small clumps form. Add flour, and
thermometer inserted in center registers pulse until combined and large clumps
2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour 200°F (93°C), 50 to 55 minutes. Sprinkle form. (Alternatively, in a large bowl, using
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated remaining 2 tablespoons (10 grams) cheese a pastry cutter, cut cold butter until butter
sugar on top. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. Using is pea-size. Add cheeses, thyme, salt,
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder excess parchment as handles, remove dry mustard, paprika, and pepper. Using
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt from pan, and let cool on a wire rack for at a pastry cutter, cut butter mixture until
1 teaspoon (3 grams) garlic powder least 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room small clumps form. Cut in flour until large
1 teaspoon (3 grams) onion powder temperature. Garnish with parsley and dill, clumps form. Knead mixture by hand in
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda if desired. bowl or on counter until dough comes
⅛ teaspoon ground red pepper together.)
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper CHEESE-THYME COOKIES 3. Turn out dough onto a clean surface, and
1¼ cups (100 grams) shredded Parmesan Makes about 28 cookies knead until dough comes together. On a
cheese, divided lightly floured surface, roll dough to ¼-inch
¼ cup (5 grams) lightly packed chopped Classic Cheddar cheese coins get an upscale thickness. Using a 1¾-inch round cutter
fresh parsley makeover with extra-sharp Cheddar and dipped in flour, cut dough, rerolling scraps
2 tablespoons (5 grams) lightly packed sweet, buttery Gouda. Each bite is seasoned as necessary, and place on prepared pan.
chopped fresh dill with the earthy, peppery notes from the Cover and refrigerate until firm, about
1⅓ cups (320 grams) whole buttermilk, addition of thyme, taking your cheese cracker 1 hour. (Alternatively, freeze for 15 to
room temperature cravings to the next level. 20 minutes.)
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, 4. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line
melted ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
1 large egg (50 grams), room cubed 5. Place chilled dough at least 1 inch apart
temperature ½ cup (57 grams) shredded Gouda on prepared pans.
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, chopped cheese 6. Bake until bottoms are light golden
fresh dill ½ cup (57 grams) shredded extra-sharp brown, 14 to 16 minutes. Let cool on pans
white Cheddar cheese for 5 minutes. Remove from pans, and let
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 1 tablespoon (2 grams) fresh thyme cool completely on wire racks. •
an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray leaves
with flour. Line pan with parchment paper, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
letting excess extend over sides of pan. ¼ teaspoon dry mustard
2. In a large bowl, stir together flour, sugar,
baking powder, salt, garlic powder, onion

AN IRISH
EASTER
WE CHATTED WITH THREE

IRISH BAKERS—AND SNAGGED
THREE FABULOUS RECIPES—
TO ILLUMINATE WHAT A TRUE
IRISH EASTER LOOKS AND
TASTES LIKE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI

I
reland is a country full of rapturous baking traditions and flavors. At no other time is its sweet culinary soul more on display than during Easter, a
time of family gathering and delicious breaking of bread. With our 2020 Authentic Ireland Issue being one of our most beloved issues of all time,
we decided to catch-up with past Irish contributors to revisit the country we miss so much. We spoke with three baking icons of Ireland: Darina
Allen, cofounder of Ballymaloe Cookery School; Shane Smith, a pastry chef and food writer; and Gemma Stafford, the baking entrepreneur behind the
YouTube channel and blog Bigger Bolder Baking. Each shares an intimate glimpse of Ireland in springtime, from the mint and rhubarb growing in their
gardens to the ornate chocolates you can find in Irish bakeries. In addition to this bit of scenic romance, the three bakers also offer authentic Irish Easter
recipes so we can enjoy a taste of Ireland from our home kitchens and dream of when we can travel there again.
PAGE LEFT: TEA AT TRACEY’S FARMHOUSE KITCHEN IN NORTHERN IRELAND / PAGE RIGHT, CLOCKWISE: CHICKENS AT BALLEYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL, TRACEY’S FARMHOUSE KITCHEN, TARTARE CAFÉ +
WINE BAR IN GALWAY

DARINA ALLEN
Darina Allen is an award-winning cookbook author and cofounder of the renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School in
Shanagarry, County Cork, Ireland. Darina has continued to school the next generation of bakers and cooks during
the COVID-19 pandemic, offering online and virtual classes for the first time.
Describe the ideal Irish Easter feast.

Darina Allen: Our best loved Easter cake
is Simnel, a gorgeous rich fruit cake with a
soft marzipan layer in the center and toasted
marzipan on the top and around the sides.
Hot cross buns were traditionally served on
Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, but now,
people can enjoy them during the entire
Lenten period. A roast leg of Spring lamb
served with a simple mint sauce is our favorite
Easter meal. Usually the sauce is made with
the first of the new season’s mint freshly
snipped from the herb garden. If we are really
lucky, we will have the first baby carrots from
the kitchen garden to round off the meal.
Easter is a moveable feast but usually we can
pick the first pale pink spears of rhubarb from
under the terracotta forcing pots. We’ll use it
to make an Easter rhubarb pie or crumble to
serve alongside our celebration meal.
What does Ireland in spring look like to you?

DA: We’re planting seeds during spring,
and during that time, there are lots of pale
yellow primroses growing around the edge
of the garden as we plant. We often make a
primrose cake for St. Patrick’s Day. We ice it
with a lemon water icing, and then decorate
it with crystallized primroses and wood sorrel
leaves. It ends up representing the Irish
colors—green, white, and gold—which sounds
a bit cheesy, but it’s a delightful cake and
super delish.
Why is the simnel cake a classic Easter baked

good in Ireland?
DA: It’s a perfect cake to make ahead, start
at least a week before Easter, maybe spread it
out over a few days. Soak the fruit in whiskey
one day, make and bake the cake next day
and allow it to rest for a day or two, apply the
marzipan topping, decorate with 11 apostles
and toast. It will just become better and
better as the days go on. It’s quite rich, so you
can share it with family and friends.
CLOCKWISE: DARINA’S KITCHEN, THE BALLEYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL COWS, AND DARINA BAKING
DARINA ALLEN’S SIMNEL CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
Recipe by Darina Allen
Simnel cake is a traditional Easter cake. It has a layer of almond paste

baked into the center and a thick layer of almond icing on top. The
11 balls represent 11 of the 12 apostles—Judas is missing for obvious
reasons.
Mixed fruit:
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (110 grams) fresh cherries
2¾ cups (352 grams) golden raisins
2¾ cups (352 grams) dried currants
2¾ cups (352 grams) raisins
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (110 grams) candied
citrus peel (such as orange or lemon)
½ cup (50 grams) ground almonds 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Heaping ⅓ cup (50 grams) whole almonds, blanched and finely 6. For batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
chopped attachment, beat butter at medium speed until very soft. Add
Zest of 1 lemon (3 grams) brown sugar, and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy,
Zest of 1 orange (5 grams) stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey well after each addition.
7. In a medium bowl, stir together flour and mixed spice. Gently
Almond paste: stir flour mixture into butter mixture.
1 pound (454 grams) ground almonds 8. Add apple to mixed fruit. Add mixed fruit to batter, and gently
1 pound (454 grams) castor sugar, sifted stir just until combined. (Don’t beat mixture again or you will
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten toughen cake.) Spoon half of batter into prepared pan. Roll about
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey half of almond paste into an 8½-inch disk. Place on top of batter
2 drops pure almond extract in pan, and cover with remaining batter. Make a slight hollow in
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting center. Dip your hand in water, and pat surface of batter. (This will
ensure top is smooth when cooked.) Cover with a single sheet of
Batter: parchment paper.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter 9. Bake for 1 hour. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F (160°C),
1 cup plus 1 teaspoon (225 grams) firmly packed light brown and bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean
sugar (see Notes), 3 to 3½ hours. Pour whiskey over hot cake, and let
6 large eggs* (300 grams), lightly beaten cool completely in pan. Let stand overnight.
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (274 grams) all-purpose flour 10. Remove cake from pan. Wrap cake, with parchment, in plastic
1 teaspoon (2 grams) mixed spice or pumpkin pie spice wrap and foil until ready to serve.
1 large or 2 small Bramley’s Seedling apples or Granny Smith 11. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
apples (185 grams), grated 12. Roll half of remaining almond paste into a 9-inch disk.
Brush cake with egg white, and top with almond paste disk. Roll
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey remaining almond paste into 11 balls. Score top of cake in 1½-inch
1 large egg (50 grams), separated and beaten squares or diamonds. Brush with egg yolk, stick almond paste balls
1 large egg (50 grams), beaten around outer edge of top, and brush with beaten egg.
13. Bake until slightly golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm, or let
1. Line a 9-inch round cake pan or an 8-inch square baking pan cool completely, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for
with parchment paper. several weeks.
2. For mixed fruit: Wash cherries, and dry them. Halve or quarter
as desired. In a large bowl, combine cherries, golden raisins, *Darina prefers organic free-range eggs for this recipe.
currants, raisins, candied peel, ground almonds, chopped almonds,
lemon zest, and orange zest. Add whiskey, and let stand for 1 hour. Notes: When you are testing for doneness, insert the wooden pick at
3. For almond paste: In a large bowl, whisk together ground an angle because the almond paste can give a false reading.
almonds and castor sugar.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg, whiskey, and almond Almond paste may also be used to ice the side of the cake. You will
extract. Add egg mixture to almond mixture, and stir until need an additional ½ recipe of the almond paste.
combined and a stiff paste forms. (You may not need all of the egg
mixture.) Dust work surface with confectioners’ sugar; turn out This cake keeps for weeks or even months, but while still delicious, it
almond paste, and gently knead until smooth. changes both in texture and flavor as it matures.
GEMMA STAFFORD
Gemma Stafford is the sensational Irish professional baker behind the website and YouTube channel Bigger Bolder
Baking. She released her first cookbook, Bigger Bolder Baking: A Fearless Approach to Baking Anytime, Anywhere
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), in 2019, introducing a whole new generation of bakers to her accessible recipes.
Tell us about some of your memories

of what your family would bake and
prepare for an Irish Easter meal.
Gemma Stafford: Easter is a big deal
in Ireland, being a religious holiday.
Every year, the meal would consist
of lamb served with roast vegetables,
gravy, and all the trimmings. Dessert
in our house was usually something
chocolate. I remember my mum serving
chocolate cake decorated with little
candy chocolate eggs on top. As kids, we
thought this was just the best thing ever.
What do you think of when you think of

Ireland in spring?
GS: Springtime is a season of rebirth
and new life, so lamb, chicks, and
eggs are what I picture when I think
of springtime. When it comes to our
sweets, however, the Irish are all about
their chocolate at Easter time! Mainly
chocolate Easter eggs wrapped in foil
and in a pretty box. We are among some
of the largest consumers of chocolate
in Europe. In Ireland, we have amazing
chocolatiers, who are putting Ireland on
the map for chocolate production.
What classic baked goods would you

recommend a traveling baker try during
an Easter sojourn to Ireland?
GS: There is really one iconic baked
good that appears every Easter in
bakeries all around Ireland and that is
hot cross buns. My mum would always
buy hot cross buns around Easter. A
rich, sweet yeasted dough studded with
dried fruit and mixed peel and marked
with a cross on top made from pastry or
icing. Traditionally eaten on the Friday
before Easter, known as Good Friday,
they symbolize the end of Lent. It’s an
Irish classic.

CHOCOLATE SCONES
Makes 8 scones
Recipe by Gemma Stafford
As an Irish person, I am no stranger to a scone! We eat them in

abundance in Ireland year-round. Chocolate, however, is the star
of the show around Easter in Ireland. We would have always eaten
a chocolate dessert on Easter Sunday, followed by our traditional
chocolate Easter eggs that every child would get on Easter morning.
This chocolate scone recipe is a twist on the traditional sweet bread
I’m used to. Soft in the middle and crisp on the outside, with the
intense flavor of dark chocolate, these scones are perfect for an Easter
morning with coffee or after your Easter dinner.
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour

¼ cup (21 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
4 teaspoons (20 grams) baking powder
½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, finely cubed 4. Bake until tops are firm and scones sound hollow when tapped,
1 cup (170 grams) 60% cacao semisweet chocolate chips 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove from
½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping cream pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk 5. Drizzle Chocolate Glaze onto cooled scones, and let set before
Chocolate Glaze (recipe follows) serving. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or freeze in
an airtight container for up to 2 months. Let frozen scones thaw at
1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, sugar, baking CHOCOLATE GLAZE
powder, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or 2 forks, cut in cold Makes ⅓ cup
butter until mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs. Add
chocolate chips, cream, and milk, and working quickly, stir until a ¾ cup (90 grams) confectioners’ sugar
loose dough forms. 2 tablespoons (10 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead a few 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) whole milk
times just until dough holds together. Pat into a 1-inch-thick ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
circle. Cut dough into 8 wedges, and place on prepared pan.
Refrigerate for 15 minutes. 1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients until combined.
PAGE LEFT: TEA AT KYLEMORE ABBEY / PAGE RIGHT: A VIEW OF LOUGH CORRIB, A GRAND LAKE IN WESTERN IRELAND; SCONES MADE AT BALLEYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL
SHANE SMITH
Shane Smith’s love of culinary arts started at a young age, and he was inspired by his two grandmothers and his
mother, who were all avid home bakers. Over the years, Shane has received numerous awards in recognition for his
work, including Best Bakery Manager in Ireland. He is a regular contributor to the Irish Times, the Irish Independent,
Easy Food Magazine, and other national publications.
What were some Easter baking traditions of

your childhood?
Shane Smith: With my mum, we always
made fruitcakes. You have your simnel cake,
the traditional fruitcake with marzipan,
and then, of course, tea bracks [fruit cakes
infused with tea]. We were soaking the fruit
the night before, either in tea or whiskey,
and then baking the fruitcake the next day.
And then there was hot cross buns. My mum
never made hot cross buns; she always bought
them. By the time I was 14, I was into baking,
so I started to bake hot cross buns. My dad
lives on hot cross buns. For him, hot cross
buns can be enjoyed in December—any time
of the year is hot cross bun time for my dad.
What can you expect to find in Irish bakeries

during the spring?
SS: You can expect simnel cakes, spiced
tea bracks, and, of course, hot cross buns.
But in the newer, modern bakeries, you can
find everything chocolate. Whether it’s a
decadent chocolate fudge cake or an ornate,
stunning chocolate Easter egg, you’ll see
some of the most amazing chocolate work.
I’ve also seen the classic Battenberg cake
making a spring comeback, with some Easter
twists—such as carrot cake crossed with
chocolate.
What do you think of when you think of

Ireland during Easter?
SS: It’s never overly warm over here during
spring, so it’s all about comfort food. I liken
Easter in Ireland to Thanksgiving in the
United States. Easter is always a family get-
together, and the food is always celebrating
tradition and comfort. So, there’s chocolate,
apple crumbles, and carrot cake bakes—
anything that would remind you of what
desserts you would crave as a child. When I
think of Easter, I think of reminiscing.
CLOCKWISE: BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND; SHANE’S HOME IN DUBLIN; SHANE’S CHOCOLATE TART
WHISKEY MARMALADE HOT CROSS
BREAD & BUTTER PUDDING
Makes 6 servings
Recipe by Shane Smith
Hot cross buns are a revelation on their own. Add warm

whiskey and tart orange marmalade and they become
something even better. Baked with boozy custard and
sandwiched with butter and marmalade, this is the ideal
Easter pudding.
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon (55 grams) granulated sugar

2 medium eggs (94 grams)
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 grams) Irish whiskey
½ teaspoon vanilla extract (2 grams)
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (250 grams) whole milk
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (200 grams) heavy whipping
cream
6 large or 8 small day-old hot cross buns (582 grams)
(see PRO TIP)
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (200 grams) orange
marmalade
1. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together sugar,

eggs, whiskey, and vanilla.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and cream over low
heat until steaming. (Do not boil.) Add warm milk mixture
to sugar mixture, whisking until combined. Strain through a
fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl, and set aside.
3. Halve buns horizontally; spread butter and marmalade
on cut sides of buns. Place bottom halves in an 8-inch
square or round baking dish, and pour half of warm
custard over buns. Cover with top halves of buns, and
pour remaining warm custard on top. Press down to
submerge buns in custard. Let stand for 30 minutes.
4. Position oven rack in center of oven. Preheat oven to
325°F (170°C).
5. Carefully place baking dish in a roasting pan on oven
rack. Add hot water to roasting pan to come halfway up
sides of baking dish.
6. Bake until pudding has a slight wobble, 35 to
40 minutes. Carefully remove baking dish from roasting
pan, and let cool slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Best served
warm with a spoon of soft whipped cream.
PRO TIP
If you can’t get your hands on hot cross buns, you can
easily imitate the flavor by incorporating warm spices
and dried fruit. Start with a plain white bread roll like milk
bread rolls or brioche rolls, relatively neutral but sweet
bread doughs. Then, once you halve the rolls, you can add
½ cup (64 grams) candied orange peel, raisins, or golden
raisins after you spread on the butter and marmalade. To
the custard, add 1 teaspoon (2 grams) mixed spice, such
as ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon
ground nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves. •
origin of a classic
FROM THE SPANISH ISLES TO
SOUTHEAST ASIA, WE TRACE
Ensaymada THIS PRIZED FILIPINO BREAD’S

RISE TO PROMINENCE
BY TRICIA MANZANERO
FOOD STYLING BY VANESSA ROCCHIO
A
ruby- and gold-hued box was always synonymous with family
holidays, especially those spent in the Philippines at my Tito Bobby’s
house. Its individually wrapped contents, called ensaymada, appeared
humble—a golden puff of pastry, delicately coated in butter, sugar, and a
dusting of cheese. One bite revealed an extraordinarily tender, melt-in-
your-mouth bread, perfectly contrasted by the sugary coating and salty
queso de bola. Ensaymadas’ ethereal texture was one my Grandpa Helding—a
bookworm, not a cook—sought for several years to recreate. Whenever they
arrived on special occasions, the gloves came off; guaranteed, in minutes, my
cousins and I had hidden our own stashes around the house, Easter egg-style.
But what is an ensaymada and how did it become so covetable?
The beginning of that story starts on the Spanish isle of Mallorca with a
spiral-shaped pastry called ensaïmada. Saïm in Catalan means “lard”—an
essential in this recipe. A yeasted dough is rolled paper-thin before being
slathered with the soft rendered pork fat. It’s then rolled, coiled, and allowed
to ferment for 12 to 18 hours. Once baked, the ensaïmada boasts a golden-
brown crust that gives way to an airy, almost flaky interior, all of which gets
dusted in confectioners’ sugar.
Ensaïmadas’ exact origins are unknown yet often speculated. A slew of

conquerors, including the Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, and Moors, left
their mark on Mallorca. It was then conquered in 1229 by King Jaume I of
Aragon, known today as an autonomous community in northeastern Spain.
Some assign ensaïmadas to Moorish influence, claiming that the coiled shape
imitated their traditional turbans, or that saïm came from samna, the Arabic
word for “fat.” A few theories cite a similar, Moorish, sheep’s milk butter-
based pastry called bulemes dolces as the ensaïmada’s predecessor, while
others point to Jewish bulemas, another yeasted and stuffed confection.
Since both Muslim and Jewish traditions prohibited pork products, the lard
possibly came later. Around the time of the Spanish Inquisition, eating
pork was a popular way to prove one’s conversion to Christianity.
But the transformational journey of Mallorcan ensaïmada to

Filipino ensaymada was again steeped in conquest and cultural
exchange. Home to varied lands ranging from emerald rice
terraces to pristine white sand beaches, the Philippines
was—and still is—a multicolored quilt in the form of
more than 7,600 islands. Beyond contributions from
neighboring countries like Malaysia, Brunei, and Indonesia,
trade also brought the archipelago Chinese, Arab, and
Indian influences. Spain played a particularly significant
role, conquering and colonizing the country from 1565
to 1898, followed by the United States, which controlled
the islands for nearly 50 years. Each left an imprint on the
Philippines, from its language to its diverse cuisine. Amy Besa,
author of Memories of Philippine Kitchens, splits the country’s
fare into two categories: foods that were always Filipino and foods
that they borrowed and adapted to their own tastes. Ensaymada falls
into that latter description.
Although ensaymadas during the Spanish colonial era initially mirrored their
Mallorcan counterparts, the pastry and its preparation gradually evolved.
The name took on its Tagalog spelling. The bread became more brioche-like,
with the fat now also added into the dough. As locals began to interpret the
recipe for themselves, the ensaymada-making process became as varied as
the Filipino population itself.
Today, some traditional ensaymada employ a three-stage sponge-and-dough method. ENSAYMADAS
Others take a more streamlined straight-dough approach. Beyond lard, ensaymada Makes 16 ensaymadas
could now include butter, margarine, oil, or a mix of a few fats. Some may even
involve potato water or mashed potatoes, which promote a soft texture. After rising, Get a taste of the Philippines, no airplane
the dough is divided. Each portion is rolled thin and brushed with fat. A sprinkling of ticket needed. Our Baking & Pastry Editor’s
cheese sometimes follows, helping to distinguish the layers, before the dough gets take on this beloved Filipino pastry features
rolled into a rope and coiled. (In some areas, the dough ropes are twisted for a double- a super-soft bread base crowned with a
coiled effect.) These spirals are then placed in fluted molds or spread on baking sheets. browned butter-sugar spread and savory
After a final proof, they’re baked, cooled, and coated in butter, sugar, and cheese. Cheddar cheese. The sweet-salty combo
is perfect for any occasion, from special
Several ensaymada interpretations exist. Alongside bready Spanish-style versions, holidays to an everyday afternoon snack.
there are also now ultra-soft, almost cake-like iterations, and even stuffed options
filled with everything from ube (purple yam) to coconut. The type of ensaymada you 3 to 3¼ cups (375 to 406 grams)
encounter can hinge on locale. At the corner panaderia, ensaymadas are affordable, all-purpose flour, divided
flat coils finished with just margarine and sugar. Travel to Pampanga, and you’ll find ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
the province’s cemada are big, boldly flavored, and richly colored due to ample egg 1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams)
yolks, butter, and cheese. A wooden rod is used to roll and hang the dough, stretching instant yeast*
it thinner for a flakier result. Meanwhile, in Bulacan, their large enseimada come 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
adorned with slices of salted duck egg and Chinese ham. ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
¼ cup (60 grams) water
Each ensaymada has its own diehard devotees. Within my family alone, what and who ¼ cup (56 grams) refined coconut oil,
makes the best ensaymadas is an ongoing debate. Everyone has their own favorite room temperature, roughly cut into
bakery—Conti’s, Hizon’s, and Mary Grace are among the top contenders. My parents ½- to ¾-inch chunks
and I have waged spirited dinner discussions merely on whether Cheddar, Parmesan, 3 large egg yolks (56 grams), room
or Edam makes the best garnish. On top of that, ensaymadas undeniably hold a special temperature
place in Filipino culture. Many associate ensaymadas with holidays like Easter and 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted
Christmas. Its delicate crumb structure is steeped in history and festive memories. butter, cubed, softened, and divided
Sugary Browned Butter Topping (recipe
Many families have heirloom recipes inherited from their lolas (grandmothers). And I follows)
know from growing up, there is no topping a lola’s recipe. Instead, what I offer is just Garnish: finely shredded sharp white
my own proud ensaymada interpretation. Taking up where my Grandpa Helding left Cheddar cheese (see Notes)
off, I first focused on the bread itself. Pure butter tests, though tender, lacked that
same melt-in-your-mouth quality. Through research, I figured there was a reason 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
several ensaymada recipes turned to shortening or oil. I, therefore, used a combo of the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup
coconut oil for similar gluten-preventing, shelf life-extending properties mixed with (125 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt at
some butter for its irreplaceable flavor. A low baking temperature of 300°F (150°C) low speed until combined.
then ensured my ensaymadas also had an ultra-soft exterior. Beyond texture, keeping 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and
the process unintimidating was another goal. A straight-dough method made these ¼ cup (60 grams) water over medium
ensaymadas easy to enjoy on the same day. As far as toppings, I kept things classic heat until an instant-read thermometer
with a slight twist, adding in browned butter—one of my favorite flavors—to give registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).
these ensaymadas a distinct, nutty depth. Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture;
beat at medium speed for 2 minutes,
More new takes are also now available thanks to bakers around the globe. In the stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
Philippines, Baby Pat Breads—a home-based operation in Santa Rosa run by 2 cups (250 grams) flour, coconut oil,
Pearl M. de Guzman—creates colorfully packaged ensaymadas in creative flavors egg yolks, and 3 tablespoons (42 grams)
including speculoos and Nutella. Stateside, Filipino expat Chari Heredia-Reyes heads butter; beat at medium-low speed just until
Ensaymada Project in North Hollywood, California, adapting her mother’s recipe to combined. Scrape sides of bowl.
craft out-of-the-box options like Oreo and red velvet. Head to eastern Canada and 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
you’ll find Ensanemada in Toronto, Ontario, helmed by Charmaine Gadea and her Beat at medium-low speed until a soft,
partner; their lineup lists Mango Tango and Matcha Made in Heaven, among others. shiny, sticky dough forms, about
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, home-based bakery Pan de London is bringing 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl
ensaymada flavors like espresso mocha and Thai tea Biscoff to England. and dough hook; add up to remaining
¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon
Whether you decide to bake your own or try one of these artisanal offerings, your (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too loose
ensaymada experience is yours to personalize. If my family is any sort of reflection, or overly sticky. (Be careful not to add too
ensaymadas continue to be a means of establishing identity and individuality as much much flour; this dough is supposed to be
as they’re a symbol of our shared history and heritage. My hope is that this recipe quite soft and sticky.)
sparks memories for you and your loved ones, too. Whether you choose to share or 4. Scrape sides of bowl; gently pull up and
shamelessly hoard your ensaymadas is up to you. fold sides of dough to form a rough ball.
Turn folded side down; cover and let rise in dough, and let rise in a warm, draft-free directly on parchment paper-lined baking
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until place (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in sheets. If making ensaymadas on baking
doubled in size, about 1 hour. size, 20 to 30 minutes. sheets, tuck loose ends underneath coiled
5. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Spray 9. Bake until lightly golden, about dough to secure.
16 (3¼-inch) brioche molds with baking 20 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway
spray with flour (see Notes); place evenly through baking. Let cool in molds for SUGARY BROWNED BUTTER TOPPING
spaced on a rimmed baking sheet. 5 minutes. Remove from molds, and let Makes about 1 cup
6. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat cool completely on wire racks.
remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter 10. Using a small offset spatula, spread Sugary ⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter,
on high in 10-second intervals until melted. Browned Butter Topping on top of cooled softened
7. Punch down dough; cover and let stand ensaymadas. Garnish with cheese, if desired. ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
for 5 minutes. Turn out dough onto a ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
lightly floured surface; divide into *We used Platinum Yeast® from Red Star®
16 portions (about 50 grams each). Shape —a premium instant yeast mixed with dough 1. In a medium light-colored metal
each portion into a 5-inch log; loosely improvers—to further promote a light, tender saucepan, cook butter over medium heat,
cover logs with sheets of plastic wrap. texture. In lieu of Platinum Yeast, however, stirring frequently, until butter solids are
8. Pat or roll 1 dough log into an 8x3-inch instant yeast will do just fine. golden and nutty in aroma, 7 to 12 minutes.
rectangle; brush rectangle with melted Pour browned butter into a square glass
butter, leaving a ½-inch border on one Notes: Ensaymadas are often topped with baking dish or medium bowl; refrigerate
long side. Starting with long side opposite queso de bola. It can be difficult to locate, until solid, 2 to 3 hours. Let stand at room
border, roll up dough rectangle, jelly roll but if you can find this type of Edam cheese temperature until softened before using,
style; pinch seam to seal. (It’s OK if a bit in your area, definitely give it a try. If not, 30 to 40 minutes.
of butter squishes out.) Place seam side substitute with sharp Cheddar (as we do in 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
down. Starting on one end of rolled dough, this recipe) or mild Parmesan (a favorite the paddle attachment, beat softened
coil into a spiral shape; lightly press loose swap-in of my mom’s). browned butter, sugar, and salt at medium
end into side to adhere, and gently place speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Use
in 1 prepared mold. Repeat with remaining If you don’t have brioche molds, these immediately.
dough and melted butter, wiping and lightly ensaymadas can also be baked in standard
flouring surface as needed. Cover shaped 12-cup muffin pans, jumbo muffin pans, or
SHAPING SAVVY You’re three simple steps away from perfectly spiraled ensaymadas
STEP 1: Pat or roll 1 dough log into an STEP 2: Starting with long side opposite STEP 3: Place rolled dough seam side
8x3-inch rectangle; brush rectangle with border, roll up dough rectangle, jelly roll down; starting on one end, coil into a
melted butter, leaving a ½-inch border style, and pinch seam to seal. (Don’t worry spiral shape. Lightly press loose end into
on one long side. if some butter squishes out.) side to adhere, and gently place in
1 prepared mold. •

fast-²x baking
Forgotten Cookies
MERINGUE-LIKE TREATS THAT VIRTUALLY BAKE THEMSELVES,
FORGOTTEN COOKIES ALLOW YOU TO GO ABOUT YOUR DAY OR NIGHT
AND RETURN EIGHT HOURS LATER TO COOKIE PERFECTION
FOOD STYLING BY VANESSA ROCCHIO / STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY

CHOCOLATE-ORANGE-PISTACHIO
FORGOTTEN COOKIES
Makes about 15 cookies
The magic of “forgotten cookies” begins as soon as they’re

placed into a preheated oven and the oven is immediately
turned off. This is followed by the most important step: the
cookies are forgotten! Because the cookies bake slowly using
the residual heat of the oven, the busy baker can go about
their errands, finish the workday, or nestle into bed without
having to worry about setting timers or leaving the oven on.
Once the oven is opened again, the most perfect meringue-
like cookies await. Lighter than air, with a chewy yet crisp
consistency, these cookies receive an addition of chocolate
chips, salted pistachios, and orange zest for extra flavor
and texture.
¼ cup (60 grams) egg whites, room temperature

(about 2 large egg whites)
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (100 grams) castor sugar
½ cup (84 grams) mini 60% cacao semisweet
chocolate chips
¼ cup (36 grams) finely chopped roasted salted
pistachios
½ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla bean paste
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) tightly packed orange zest
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a rimmed baking

sheet with parchment paper.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at
medium-high speed until foamy. Gradually add sugar in a
slow, steady stream, beating until glossy stiff peaks form
and stopping to scrape sides of bowl, if necessary. Gently
fold in chocolate chips, pistachios, vanilla bean paste, and
orange zest just until combined.
3. Using 2 regular-size spoons, scoop egg white mixture
into 15 (1½- to 2-inch-wide) dollops (about 18 grams
each), spacing at least ¾ to 1 inch apart on prepared pan;
using the back of a spoon, swirl and swoop dollops as
desired.
4. Place pan in oven; immediately turn oven off, and leave
cookies in oven with door closed for at least 8 hours.
Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Note: Resist the urge to open the oven before the cookies
are finished, as this will allow the heat to escape. After
8 hours, these cookies can remain in the cold oven for several
more hours until you are ready to enjoy them. After about
12 hours, you’ll want to place the cookies in an airtight
container to prevent any softening caused by the humidity in
the air.

talk to trish
TRISH WITH A GRAIN OF SALT

OUR BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR IS BACK TO ANSWER YOUR BAKING QUESTIONS,
INCLUDING THE PURPOSE OF SALT AND CREAM OF TARTAR IN RECIPES AND HOW
TO KEEP YOUR CAKES MOIST!
What does cream of tartar do in recipes? moisture and extend shelf life. It can baking up dry, you may need to assess
That cream of tartar in your pantry is also affect or, in the case of finishing other factors like oven calibration,
multitalented. The seemingly simple salts, add texture. When it comes to ingredient ratios, mixing methods, and
acidic white powder is a byproduct of the bread, it plays an even more essential more. For more moist, tender cake
wine-making process. It’s often favored role. Salt controls yeast activity, ideas, look through our pudding cakes
as a stabilizer. Added to whipped egg impacts crust color, and strengthens story on page 59.
whites, like in the Essential . . . Meringue the gluten structure, allowing dough to
hold carbon dioxide efficiently. The salt How do I get a lemon curd tart to set
(page 33), cream of tartar enables
sweet spot for breads typically sits at without using cornstarch?
the egg whites to achieve maximum
volume. It simultaneously stabilizes and 1.8% to 2% based on total flour weight. Part of what makes lemon curd lovely
strengthens the network of bubbles Thus, for bread, and really all baked is its simplicity. Lemon zest and juice,
formed while whipping, allowing them to goods, precise salt measurements make eggs (and/or egg yolks), granulated
hold water and air rather than deflate. a difference. Our From the Pantry sugar, butter, and maybe a touch of salt
Beyond meringues, this can benefit feature (page 4) dedicated to this get whisked together to create a tart
other whipped egg white-based items crystalline compound is an excellent yet sweet substance. Cornstarch need
like sponge cakes and soufflés. Cream place to find more information! not apply and can, in fact, cloud your
of tartar can also impact the color of curd’s gorgeous jewel tone. If your tart
How can I keep my cakes moist isn’t setting up, it could be that your
baked goods. For instance, angel food
without having to use simple syrup on curd simply needs to cook for longer.
cakes made with cream of tartar appear them?
whiter than those made without. Cream Some tart recipes will cook the curd to
of tartar can help prevent sugar from We all know a moist cake tastes like about 170°F (77°C); the curd is then
crystallizing, and mixed with baking soda, sweet victory, but a dry one is the added to the crust, followed by a brief
it makes for a suitable baking powder definition of devastating. That said, a stint in the oven. Others may cook the
substitute. Snickerdoodle cookies’ simple syrup—though a nice addition— curd to a slightly higher temperature
signature tang and chewy texture? Thank is not a must for moist cake layers. of 180°F (82°C) to 182°F (83°C) if
cream of tartar for that, too. If your layers are already coming out it’s just getting poured into a crust to
moist, be sure to cool, finish, and store chill and set. Now, be aware that these
Is salt important in my baked goods? them properly. Frosting and filling egg-based mixtures can start to curdle
layers once cool is a great way to lock in when cooked past 185°F (85°C). Either
Although recipes may call for small
moisture. Opting for luscious or creamy way, it’s a good idea to strain your curd
amounts, salt is pretty vital in baking.
fillings like custards or jams can help to keep things nice and smooth. If your
First, it’s a flavor enhancer; when
add extra moisture sans simple syrup. curd still isn’t as thick as desired, you
added to baked goods, it brightens
Need to frost another day? No sweat. may need to increase or adjust your egg
and balances everything, from deep
Just wrap cooled layers tightly in plastic content. You can try adding an egg yolk
chocolaty notes to delicate sweetness.
wrap to keep them from drying out; or removing 1 or 2 egg whites. It may
Leave it out, and you’ll likely notice
these can stand at room temperature take some tinkering, but getting that
your treats taste flat. Salt, like sugar,
is also hygroscopic, helping to retain
for up to 5 days. If your layers are clean slice will be oh so worth it. •
Have a baking question for Trish? Email us at [email protected] and your question could be featured in our next issue!

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Our Guide to Bring on the Cheese: The

Master Meringue Cheesiest Breadsticks and More

FROM SCRATCH ® BANANA PUDDING

17 Hot from the Oven: Sustainable Baking

19 Baker Spotlight: Alon Shaya

21 From the Pantry: Salt

25 Retro Redo: Folar de Rosas

march | april 2021 4

MANAGING EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

V I C E P R E S I D E N T, A DV E R T I S I N G MARKETING MANAGER Gretchen Norris

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

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SHOP OUR ENTIRE BAKE FROM SCRATCH COLLECTION AT BAKEFROMSCRATCH.COM/SHOP. 83PBF21

All recipes in each issue pass

The below products are

IN DEDICATION TO IRENE YEH

9 bake from scratch

SPRING IS THE SEASON

We embrace this period of renewal with some truly inspired recipe

Brian Hart Hoffman

march | april 2021 10

HEILALA VANILLA PUDDING CAKE

BARS AND COOKIES Chocolate Pudding Cake 68 page 69

Biscochito Cookie Bars 32 Coconut Pecan Cake 64

BREADS FROSTINGS, FILLINGS,

Jew-ish cover photography submitted

Note: To use the windowpane test to check

KITCHEN SWITCHES A RISE ABOVE

UNPAPER YOUR TOWELS

THIS DUO HAS YOU

PLASTIC-FREE: THAT’S A WRAP!

TRENDING TOMES GOOD GRAIN

Available at your local bookstore or online on March 9, $30

march | april 2021 18

19 bake from scratch

Announcing our 2021

Our 2021 baking retreats will satisfy the wanderlust cravings

A DELICIOUS PREVIEW OF OUR RETREATS

BRITISH BAKING Dates to be announced soon!

The relationship that salt has to ﬂavor may be a more

Lastly, like sugar, salt is hygroscopic, drawing in moisture

FOLAR DAS ROSAS

In honor of my grandmother and mother,

27 bake from scratch

march | april 2021 28

march | april 2021 30

1. Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together

11 tablespoons (154 grams) unsalted butter, room

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease a 9-inch square

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

SCALE: With meringue, the volume

OTHER INGREDIENTS: As noted, very few ingredients are needed

USE YOUR YOLKS

35 bake from scratch

march | april 2021 36

1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together sugar, egg

37 bake from scratch

1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and ¼ cup (60 grams)

THE PROBLEM: CLUMPY MERINGUE THE PROBLEM:

39 bake from scratch

To make a classic Italian meringue, granulated