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2021 03 01BakefromScratch
2021 03 01BakefromScratch
60
PuDdInG
Recipes for
Sweet Spring
Baking
PoWeR
Why a
Pudding Layer
Makes the
Best Cakes
Strawberries
4 Ways: Baked,
Roasted, Fresh,
Macerated
#thebakefeed
MAR/APR 2021 VOLUME
$12.99US $15.99CAN
7, ISSUE 2
FEATURING
04
Fast Fix: The Forgotten Cookies You’ll Never Forget
Freeform Baking: Don’t Miss the Black Forest Pavlova
7 25274 01695 2 The Fastest Puff Pastry Recipe Ever
DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 17, 2021
FROM SCRATCH
®
table of contents
71 ROUGH PUFF AND READY Our baking and pastry editor dives into the
delicious roots of the Filipino favorite ensaymada
See the lamination magic our rough puff pastries
bring without the time-consuming traditional
method 111 Fast-Fix Baking: Chocolate-Orange Forgotten
Cookies
A cookie that practically bakes itself, forgotten
79 PARKER HOUSE ROLL REDUX
No matter how you shape them, Parker House
cookies use the residual heat of the oven to
bake—meaning you can wake up to cookie
rolls are the iconic American dinner rolls: perfection
buttery, soft, flaky, and 100% delicious
113 Talk to Trish: Trish with a Grain of Salt
89 SAY CHEESE
From crispy Cheese-Thyme Cookies to
Our test kitchen expert, Tricia Manzanero,
answers all your tough questions—from the
science behind cream of tartar to lemon curd
wonderfully soft Parmesan-Herb Buttermilk troubleshooting
Bread, these cheesy recipes don’t disappoint
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together bread flour, whole wheat
flour, salt, and yeast. (Any mix-ins you want to use should be added at this
point.) Add 2 cups (480 grams) warm water; using the paddle attachment,
beat at medium speed until a sticky dough forms, about 30 seconds.
2. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°/24°C) until doubled
in size, 1½ to 2 hours. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or preferably
overnight.
3. Turn out dough onto a heavily floured surface. Using floured hands,
lightly press dough into a 1-inch-thick oval. Grab bottom edge, and gently
stretch and fold bottom third over to center. Stretch right side out, and
fold right third over to center; repeat with left side. Finish by folding top
third over previous folds. Roll loaf away from you to seam side down, and
using both hands, cup dough and pull it toward you to seal. Turn dough
90 degrees, and pull again until a tight, smooth boule forms.
Place, seam side up, in a banneton (proofing basket) or a medium
bowl lined with a kitchen towel heavily dusted with bread flour.
Loosely cover dough with towel, and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 1 to 1½ hours.
4. When dough has 30 minutes left to rise, place Dutch oven and
lid in cold oven. Preheat oven to 500°F (260°C).
5. Dust a piece of parchment paper with semolina flour, and turn
out dough seam side down. Score bread, if desired. Carefully
remove hot Dutch oven from oven; remove lid, and place dough, on
parchment, in Dutch oven. Cover with lid, and place back in oven.
6. Immediately reduce oven temperature to 425°F (220°C).
Bake for 25 minutes. Remove lid, and bake until an instant-
read thermometer inserted in center of loaf registers
200°F (93°C), 20 to 30 minutes more. Immediately
remove loaf from Dutch oven, and let cool completely on a wire
rack before slicing or storing.
JOIN THE Love what you see? Join the Better Baking Academy today
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FROM SCRATCH
march | april 2021 Volume 7, Issue 2
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar
I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S
FROM SCRATCH®
ARTISAN RECIPES
FOR THE HOME BAKER
Welcome to the wonderful world of artisan
baking. This is the beginning of another
adventure in dough and batter, butter and Ŵour.
After Ɠve inspiring years of innovative recipes,
travel, and the celebration of bakers and cultures
FROM SCRATCH® worldwide, we bring you this collection of more
ARTISAN RECIPES than 650 recipes, commemorating the Ɠfth year
FOR THE HOME BAKER of Bake from Scratch magazine. Showcasing fresh,
BRIAN HART HOFFMAN seasonal ingredients and celebrating tradition
and history, this edition offers something for
everyone. Featuring step-by-step tutorials, tried-
and-tested recipes, and stunning photography,
this cookbook will have you mastering yeasted
breads, layer cakes, cookies, and so much more.
So, dust your surfaces with Ŵour and preheat your
ovens, bakers. Let the baking begin!
preorder
volume five
today!
INCLUDES ALL
2020
MAGAZINE
RECIPES
800-361-8059 BAKEFROMSCRATCH.COM/BFS5
I’d be remiss not to share another amazing milestone. This March, we will
be releasing our fifth cookbook, Bake from Scratch: Volume Five. Christened
with a gorgeous gold spine and showcasing some of the beautiful cakes you
can expect to find inside, this is another tome bakers will be proud to have
on their shelf. Get ready for one of your sweetest springs yet.
Happy baking,
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake 5. Level cooled cake layers, if necessary; 2 teaspoons (12 grams) Heilala Pure
cut each layer in half crosswise. Place Vanilla Bean Paste
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, 1 cake layer on a serving plate or cake ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
softened turntable. Brush layer with 2 tablespoons 16 ounces (454 grams) mascarpone
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar (33 grams) Vanilla Simple Syrup. Using cheese, softened (see Notes)
½ cup (100 grams) Heilala Pure Vanilla a small offset spatula, spread ¼ cup
Sugar (48 grams) Vanilla Bean Mascarpone 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
4 large eggs (200 grams), room Buttercream evenly over cake layer. Spoon the paddle attachment, beat butter at
temperature 1 cup (192 grams) buttercream into a pastry medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute,
1 teaspoon (6 grams) Heilala Pure bag, and cut a ½-inch opening in tip; pipe a stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer
Vanilla Bean Paste ½-inch tall border of buttercream around
3 cups (375 grams) unbleached cake flour edge of cake layer. Using a small offset
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder spatula, spread 1 cup (272 grams) Vanilla
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt Pudding in an even layer within piped border.
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room Repeat procedure twice. Top cake with
temperature remaining layer, cut side down, and brush
Vanilla Simple Syrup (recipe follows) with remaining 2 tablespoons (33 grams)
Vanilla Bean Mascarpone Buttercream Vanilla Simple Syrup. Using a large offset
(recipe follows) spatula, spread a thin layer of buttercream on
Vanilla Pudding (recipe follows) top and sides of cake to create crumb coat.
Garnish: Heilala Pure Vanilla Sugar Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
6. Spread remaining Vanilla Bean
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray Mascarpone Buttercream on top
2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking and sides of cake. Using a small
spray with flour. offset spatula, texture sides and
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with swirl top as desired. Garnish with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and vanilla sugar, if desired.
sugars at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. VANILLA SIMPLE SYRUP
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after Makes about ½ cup
each addition. Beat in vanilla bean paste.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low ⅓ cup (80 grams) water
speed, gradually add flour mixture to butter ½ teaspoon (3 grams) Heilala Pure
mixture alternately with milk, beginning and Vanilla Bean Paste
ending with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition. Divide batter 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and
evenly between prepared pans (about ⅓ cup (80 grams) water over medium heat
712 grams each), smoothing tops with a just until sugar dissolves. Remove from
small offset spatula. Tap pans on a kitchen heat; stir in vanilla bean paste. Let cool
towel-lined counter several times to settle completely before using.
batter and release any air bubbles; smooth
tops again, if necessary. VANILLA BEAN MASCARPONE BUTTERCREAM
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in Makes about 7 cups
center comes out clean, 28 to 38 minutes.
Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Run a knife 2 cups (454 grams) unsalted butter,
around pans to loosen edges of cake layers; softened (see Notes)
remove from pans, and let cool completely 4 cups (480 grams) confectioners’ sugar
on wire racks. 4 teaspoons (20 grams) heavy whipping
cream
on low speed, gradually add confectioners’ Some brands of mascarpone blend better 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk over
sugar, beating just until combined. Beat in into this buttercream than others. If yours is medium heat until steaming. (Do not boil.)
cream, vanilla bean paste, and salt; increase breaking instead of smoothly mixing in, you 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar,
mixer speed to medium, and beat until may need to try a different brand. cornstarch, flour, and salt. Whisk in egg
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape yolks until well combined. (Mixture will
sides of bowl. Fold in mascarpone by hand VANILLA PUDDING be very thick.) Gradually whisk in half of
just until combined. (Do not overmix; Makes about 3 cups warm milk. Pour sugar mixture into warm
mascarpone will start to break down.) Use milk in pan. Bring to a boil over medium
immediately. 2⅔ cups (640 grams) whole milk heat, whisking constantly. Cook, whisking
⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar constantly, until thickened, mixture no
Notes: For best results, it’s important 3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch longer tastes starchy, and an instant-read
that the butter and mascarpone for this 4 teaspoons (12 grams) all-purpose flour thermometer registers 185°F (85°C), 3 to
buttercream are both softened and at about ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in butter
the same temperature. An instant-read 6 large egg yolks (112 grams) in two additions; stir in vanilla bean paste.
thermometer inserted into the center of each ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 4. Pour and press mixture through a fine-
is an easy way to gauge when they’re ready to and softened mesh sieve into prepared dish or bowl;
go. Our butter and mascarpone were at about 1 teaspoon (6 grams) Heilala Pure smooth into a thin layer. Cover with a piece
65°F (18°C). Try to handle the buttercream Vanilla Bean Paste of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto
as minimally as possible; overworking it on surface of pudding to prevent a skin from
your cake could cause the mascarpone to 1. Line a medium shallow baking dish or forming. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled,
start breaking down. bowl with plastic wrap; place a fine-mesh 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Stir chilled filling
sieve inside. until softened and smooth before using.
RECIPE INDEX
Our Guide to Bring on the Cheese: The
Master Meringue Cheesiest Breadsticks and More
on the cover
Banana Pudding FROM SCRATCH ® BANANA PUDDING
HUMMINGBIRD LAYER CAKE
PuDdInG
Cheese Thyme Cookies 98 Darina Allen’s Simnel Cake 102 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
PoWeR
Why a
Pudding Layer
Chocolate-Orange-Pistachio Forgotten Orange Cream Cake 65 STEPHANIE Makes the
Best Cakes
WELBOURNE STEELE
Cookies 112 Strawberry and Almond Buttermilk RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY Strawberries
4 Ways: Baked,
Roasted, Fresh,
French Meringue Kisses 40 Cake 49 TRICIA MANZANERO Macerated
FOOD STYLING BY
Italian Meringue Kisses 42 Vanilla Pudding Cake with Mascarpone MEGAN LANKFORD FEATURING
Fast Fix: The Forgotten Cookies You’ll Never Forget
Swiss Meringue Kisses 41 Buttercream 11 STYLING BY Freeform Baking: Don’t Miss the Black Forest Pavlova
The Fastest Puff Pastry Recipe Ever
SIDNEY BRAGIEL
resources
Hot from the Oven
Organic Unbleached Unpaper Towels
photography submitted by Tiny Yellow
Bungalow
Beeswax Food Wrap photography
submitted by Abeego
Page 17-18 Fabric Bowl Cover and Bread Bag by Houghton-Mifflin Harcourt An Irish Easter
Handcrafted French Rolling Pins photography submitted by Eco Girl Page 102
photography submitted by The Wooden Shop Zoë Bakes Cakes cover photography Simnel Cake photo courtesy of Ballymaloe
Palate submitted by Ten Speed Press/Penguin Cookery School
Super Flour photography submitted by Random House Page 104
Upcycled Denim Apron photography Rise Products Co Chocolate Scones photo by Gemma
submitted by Wild Minimalist Southern Ground cover photography Stafford
Recycled Paper Birthday Card submitted by Ten Speed Press/Penguin
photography submitted by Nourishing Random House Page 106
Sourdough Proofing Baskets Bread pudding photo by Shane Smith
photography submitted by Flourside Notes
ADVERTISING
;7=:+:-)5.)6<)14;
A miniature pull-apart dream, these fantails pack tangy sour cream and bright green onion flavor in spades.
Delicately tender, our base dough gets a fluffy boost from Platinum® Yeast from Red Star® before
being brushed with melted butter and sandwiched into its classic fantail shape.
Makes 12 rolls ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) garlic powder, and 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough
baking soda at low speed until combined. in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover
3¼ to 3½ cups (406 to 437 grams) 2. In a medium saucepan, heat ¾ cup and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
all-purpose flour, divided (180 grams) water, sour cream, and (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 30 to
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter over 45 minutes.
sugar medium-low heat, stirring frequently, 5. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a
1 tablespoon (9 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon until butter is melted and an instant-read 12-cup muffin pan with cooking spray.
kosher salt, divided thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) 6. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm sour cream remaining 5 tablespoons (70 grams) butter
Platinum Yeast mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium- on high in 10-second intervals until melted.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) garlic powder, low speed until combined, about 1 minute, 7. Punch down dough; cover and let stand
divided stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With for 10 minutes. Divide dough in half,
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda mixer on low speed, gradually add 2¼ cups covering one portion with plastic wrap. On
¾ cup (180 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (281 grams) flour and ½ cup (55 grams) a lightly floured surface, roll uncovered half
(15 grams) water, divided green onion, beating just until combined into a 12-inch square. Brush with
½ cup (120 grams) sour cream and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted butter.
8 tablespoons (112 grams) unsalted 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Using a pizza cutter, cut dough into
butter, cubed and divided Beat at low speed until a soft, somewhat 12 (6x2-inch) strips. Stack 6 strips, butter
½ cup (55 grams) plus 1 tablespoon sticky dough forms, 10 to 12 minutes, side up; repeat with remaining 6 strips to
(7 grams) finely chopped green onion, stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough create a separate stack. Using a floured
divided hook; add up to remaining ¼ cup (31 grams) serrated knife, cut each stack crosswise
1 large egg (50 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if into 3 (2-inch) squares. Place each square
dough is too sticky. (Dough will mostly pull stack, layered side up, in prepared muffin
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the away from sides of bowl and should pass the cups. Repeat procedure with remaining
paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (125 grams) windowpane test; see Note.) Turn out dough dough and 1 tablespoon (14 grams) melted
flour, sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 grams) salt, yeast, onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into butter. Slightly separate layers of each
a smooth round. fantail. Cover loosely with plastic wrap,
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°F/24°C) until dough fills cups, 15 to
25 minutes.
8. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
Brush tops of dough with egg wash.
9. Bake until lightly golden, 12 to 15 minutes.
10. Add remaining 1 tablespoon (7 grams)
green onion, remaining ½ teaspoon
(1.5 grams) garlic powder, and remaining
¼ teaspoon salt to remaining melted butter,
stirring until combined. Carefully remove
fantails from pan; brush with butter mixture.
Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.
SUSTAINABLE BAKING
[ONE GRAIN AT A TIME]
FOR EARTH DAY THIS YEAR, WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE MOST SUSTAINABLE BAKING PRODUCTS,
FROM ECO-FRIENDLY WAXED CLOTHS TO ORGANIC UNBLEACHED UNPAPER TOWELS.
THIS IS BAKING THAT YOUR MOTHER (EARTH) WOULD BE PROUD OF.
to the archive room to view recipes rescued subsequently sink down some while cooling.
during the Holocaust. I was fascinated reading What you are left with is a heavy and nutty
these recipes written in concentration camps. cake texture, which is then filled with a
People were risking their lives to memorialize sweet and rich chocolate walnut filling.
food memories on any scraps of paper they A walnut buttercream finishes the cake,
could get their hands on—which included making a delicious, walnut-laden dessert.
stolen bomb receipts. I was so emotionally The Old-World flavor of the cake comes
struck seeing that even in the most horrible from a Hungarian tradition to use walnuts
situations, food can provide a glimpse of hope in any way possible.
or a moment of comfort. Years later, my wife
The Fenyves family cookbook, prepared by and I embarked on a trip to the Holocaust
mother Klara Fenyves, was a very special Memorial Museum in D.C. to search for
book. Members of the Fenyves family, recipes lost, and on that trip, we discovered
thrust into wartime, were forced to leave Steven Fenves’s family cookbook. We were
their apartment in Yugoslavia in 1944. The able to form a direct relationship with Mr.
Fenyves family cook, Maris, saved their Fenves, and he joined me in translating the
prized cookbook from looters, returning recipes from Hungarian to English. It has been
the heirloom to the surviving family so important for me to bring these flavors to
members after the war. Klara—a victim Steven, who hasn’t taste them since 1944.
of a concentration camp—would not see
this book again, but the cookbook would
find its way back into the hands of her son,
Steven Fenves, who shared the cherished What does recreating recipes like this cake
book with the United States Holocaust mean to you?
Memorial Museum in Washington, D.C. AS: I think that these recipes need to
Thanks to a project inspired by Alon Shaya, be saved and restored. By honoring
award-winning chef, cookbook author, and the accounts and memories in these
founder of Pomegranate Hospitality, these cookbooks, we can connect generations to
recipes are coming alive again for the world come with history in a positive way. History
to see. will continue to recount the terrible details
that come from that time, but I believe
How did you first hear about Steven that connecting people to the Holocaust
Fenves’s family cookbook? Tell us about the Fenyves family’s Walnut in a way that brings joy, like recreating a
Alon Shaya: In 2011, we took a trip to Cream Cake. recipe and sitting around the table and
Israel as a part of a culinary tour, and one AS: A flour-free cake, whipped egg whites eating that recipe, is a very important way
of the most impactful stops we made allow the crumb to soufflé up while baking, for us to be thinking of the Holocaust. This
was Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust but because all of the ground walnuts brings honor to those who went through
Remembrance Center. We were invited and chocolate in the cake, the layers this, showcasing the rich and beautiful lives
they led before the Holocaust and their
Your donations allow recipe restorations like this to continue. Visit ushmm.org to donate, and find story of loss and survival. •
the restored recipe for the Walnut Cream Cake at bakefromscratch.com.
BAKING
RETREATS
SAVE THE DATE!
It’s time to take an adventure the Bake from Scratch way.
PARIS, FRANCE
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA FRENCH HOLIDAY BAKING
BUNDT CAKE BAKING DECEMBER 3–8 and
Dates to be announced soon! DECEMBER 8–12
All you need to do is pack your bags—the aprons will be waiting for you.
For all of the delicious details on these retreats and to register, go to bakefromscratch.com/baking-retreats,
and to stay up to date on all our baking retreat announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
from the pantry
SALT
SECOND TO WATER, SALT IS THE MOST UBIQUITOUS INGREDIENT IN COOKING.
BUT HOW MUCH DO YOU REALLY KNOW ABOUT THIS PANTRY ESSENTIAL?
BY SANDI SHRIVER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAC JAMIESON / STYLING BY LILY SIMPSON
A
s far as taste is concerned, salt (sodium chloride) is
the proverbial Goldilocks of baked goods. Too little
and treats taste flat. Too much and they are deemed
inedible. Just right and our taste receptors ignite. Besides an
intense salty taste on its own, salt interacts with the other
basic tastes, acting as both the crescendo and decrescendo
of the flavor concert. Specifically, salt can enhance
sweetness, mask bitterness, and complement umami (or
savoriness). Think of the ever-so-popular salted caramel,
which harnesses this combo to change the perception of
sweetness, or the iconic sprinkling of flaked sea salt on dark
chocolate that causes bitterness to magically abate. In other
words, without salt, all baking becomes one-note.
Salt also reacts with proteins in egg whites, but unlike with
flour proteins, it does not have a strengthening effect. For
The Essential . . . Meringue (page 33), we added a small
amount of salt to our meringues for one chief reason:
to perfectly round out the flavor. But for the meringue
construction, adding salt is counterintuitive. Salt molecules
bind with egg proteins on the molecular level, making it more
difficult to form the desired airy structure. Ultimately, the
addition of cream of tartar counteracts this phenomenon
and the small amount of salt has minimal impact on the
meringue. The taste trade-off is worth every tiny grain.
HIMALAYAN
SALT
FLEUR DE SEL
SEL GRIS
MALDON
UNREFINED SEA SALT
FLAKED FLAKES
SEA SALT
MORTON KOSHER
SALT
COURSE
HIMALAYAN SALT DIAMOND CRYSTAL
KOSHER SALT
retro redo
THE REDO
FOLAR DAS ROSAS
(EASTER BREAD OF ROSES)
Makes 1 (8-inch) round loaf
Sponge:
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) instant yeast
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (15 grams) warm water
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
Dough:
3 tablespoons (45 grams) whole milk
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams)
granulated sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams)
1 tablespoon (3 grams) lemon zest
½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt
1¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon (227 grams)
unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground mace or
nutmeg
4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted
butter, melted
I
was 23 when I visited the Azores islands of Portugal for the first time. My grandmother Maxine called me brave for going to the remote
archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. I reminded her it was brave of her parents and all of my maternal great-grandparents to
immigrate to the United States. I tried to explain that the islands were calling me. It was an inexplicable longing—in Portuguese, it’s called
saudade—a longing that began with the stories she would weave for me as a child, stories of our family and the beautiful volcanic islands they left.
It surfaced the strongest in the desire to make and eat bread. Bread is like a religion in our family. But not just any bread.
Like most immigrant families, as the generations progress, many recipes and family traditions are lost. Thankfully, my grandmother and mother
have preserved the tradition of pão doce (sweet bread), which we call massa or massa sovada, meaning “beaten dough.” It’s a rich sweet dough made
with dozens of eggs, sugar, butter, lemon zest, and spices like nutmeg and cinnamon. It’s the smell of Easter and the Festas do Espírito Santo (Holy
Ghost Festivals). During Easter, my mom will create folares, which are little sweet bread “nests” complete with a hard-cooked egg inside. She still
makes them for me and my cousins each year. In Portugal, it is often tradition to receive a folar from your godparents. Depending on the region,
folares can range from savory to sweet. Many, like my mother’s, include hard-cooked eggs to resemble nests, and others are layered or rolled with
sweet fillings.
The symbol of the rose has followed me throughout my life. I was born in a small town in Northern California called Roseville, and my grandmother
had the surname Da Rosa before marrying. It is from the Da Rosa branch of the family tree that I am told I inherited my love of sweets.
Creme de Ovos com Côco (recipe follows) 4 to 5 times around bowl after 30 minutes. tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute,
1 large egg white (30 grams) 6. Butter and flour a tall-sided 8-inch and test again.
1 teaspoon (5 grams) water round cake pan. Line bottom of pan with
Pinch fine sea salt parchment paper. CREME DE OVOS COM CÔCO
7. On a heavily floured surface, roll dough Makes about 1 cup
1. For sponge: In a small bowl, stir together into a 16x9-inch rectangle. Carefully
yeast, sugar, and flour. Add 1 tablespoon spread Creme de Ovos com Côco onto ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
(15 grams) warm water, stirring until dough. Starting with one long side, roll up ¼ cup (60 grams) water
combined. dough, jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal. 1 cinnamon stick
2. For dough: In small microwave-safe Gently stretch to about 17½ inches long. 3 large egg yolks (56 grams)
bowl, heat milk on high until an instant- Cut log into 7 (2½-inch) slices. Place 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) all-purpose flour
read thermometer registers 165°F (74°C), 1 slice, cut side up, in center of prepared 1 teaspoon (1 gram) lemon zest
about 30 seconds. pan; place remaining 6 slices, cut side up, Pinch fine sea salt
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with around center slice. Cover and let rise 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
the whisk attachment, beat sugar, eggs, in a hot, draft-free place (90°F/32°C ½ cup (42 grams) unsweetened flaked
lemon zest, and ½ teaspoon (3 grams) salt to 100°F/38°C) until slightly more than coconut
at high speed until light, 1 to 2 minutes. doubled in size, 1½ to 2½ hours.
With mixer on low speed, add warm milk, 8. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). 1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, ¼ cup
beating until combined. Add sponge, and 9. In a small bowl, whisk together egg (60 grams) water, and cinnamon stick. Bring
beat until combined. white, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water, and salt. to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking
4. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Lightly brush surface of dough with egg until sugar dissolves. (Do not whisk once
Add flour and mace, and beat at medium- wash. mixture starts to boil.) Remove from heat.
low speed until combined, about 2 minutes. 10. Bake until an instant-read Let cool slightly.
With mixer on low speed, add 1 tablespoon thermometer inserted in center registers 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg
(14 grams) melted butter; increase mixer 180°F (82°C) and 190°F (88°C), 35 to yolks, flour, lemon zest, and salt. Slowly
speed to medium, and beat until well 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. whisk in sugar mixture. Return mixture to
combined. Repeat procedure for remaining Remove from pan, and let cool completely saucepan, and cook over medium-low to
3 tablespoons (42 grams) melted butter. on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature. medium heat, whisking constantly, until
Beat at medium speed for 8 to 10 minutes. Store, covered, at room temperature. thickened and bubbles form around edges
(Dough should be wet and sticky.) Check of pan. (Do not boil.) Cook for 1 minute.
dough for proper gluten development using Note: To use the windowpane test to check Remove from heat, and carefully discard
the windowpane test. (See Note.) dough for proper gluten development, lightly cinnamon stick. Stir in butter; stir in coconut.
5. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small Cover and let cool for 30 to 45 minutes. •
bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
rise in a hot, draft-free place (90°F/32°C from the center. If the dough is ready, you
to 100°F/38°C) until doubled in size, 1½ to will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
2½ hours, stretching and folding dough translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
march | april 2021 26
baker pro²le
T
here are friends, and then there are soul mates. Your
spiritual counterpoint can be anyone, from your mother
to your romantic partner. Julie Tanous and Jesse Tyler
Ferguson found their profound match in the kitchen. Since
meeting at a dinner party in 2013, the two have founded a
blog, Julie & Jesse Cook, and published numerous recipes in
magazines (including a feature in the Bake from Scratch
Holiday 2016 issue). Now, the talented twosome are releasing
their first cookbook, Food Between Friends (Clarkson Potter,
2021), the culmination of many years spent together in and
out of the kitchen. We sat them down for an in-depth chat
on how they wrote, shot, and edited a cookbook—let alone
maintained their friendship—during the COVID-19 pandemic.
EQUIPMENT
12-cup muffin tin
Paper liners
Nonstick cooking spray
FILLING
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar FLOSSIN’
½ tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from ½ large orange) When slicing delicate doughs that you don’t want to squish
⅛ teaspoon (2 pinches) ground cardamom down too much, even better than a serrated knife is to use
dental floss! You can loop it around the dough and give it a firm
GLAZE pull, and it slices cleanly. Just make sure you’re using unwaxed
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar and unflavored floss, though!
1 (14 grams) tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
31 bake from scratch
BISCOCHITO COOKIE BARS
Makes 16 bars
I didn’t even know this was a thing, but apparently in 1989, the
biscochito became the official cookie of the state of New Mexico.
As someone who is obsessed with cookies, I am disappointed that I
missed this landmark occasion. I was fourteen, and what else was
I doing with my time? I should have known about this! Well, I am
thrilled to right my wrong by offering a fresh spin on this New
Mexican holiday cookie classic. I love the subtle licorice flavor that
the anise brings to these sweet-salty-buttery blondie/shortbread-
like cookies. The classic version of this recipe calls for lard. I know,
lard! Using butter instead makes for the chewiest cookie bars with
crunchy golden edges. A finishing pinch of flaky salt, and you have
the perfectly balanced treat. Even the most traditional sweets
deserve a makeover! ~Jesse
Reprinted from FOOD BETWEEN FRIENDS by Jesse Tyler Ferguson and Julie Tanous.
Copyright © 2021 by Julie & Jesse Cook, LLC. Published by Clarkson Potter, an
imprint of Random House, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.
MERINGUE
TACKLE THE TOP MERINGUE METHODS, FROM FRENCH TO
SWISS, WITH OUR ACCESSIBLE PRIMER
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS
M
eringue is the baker’s chameleon of texture. Unbaked, it’s silky
and smooth, the cloudlike secret to a Swiss or Italian meringue
frosting. Scorched under a broiler or with a kitchen torch, it takes
on the quality of a campfire marshmallow, sporting a brûléed exterior and fluffy
interior. Baked low and slow, meringue becomes crisp and crunchy, a brittle
confection that still miraculously melts in your mouth. But how does a base
mixture of sugar and egg whites become this malleable miracle?
The short answer is whipping. Lots and lots of whipping. However, short answers
don’t always make a better baker. Instead, dive into our long-form, involved
answer on how to make the best meringue. Whether it’s by the French, Swiss,
or Italian method, we show you how to expertly maneuver these three classic
meringues and bake them into delightfully crisp kisses. Once you master this
crunchy cornerstone of pâtisserie, you’ll be on your way to executing the most
elegant of desserts, from Pavlova to baked Alaska.
EGG WHITES: Separate your eggs while they’re still cold, as room
temperature eggs are much runnier. Make sure you separate using
the cracked shell halves or with an egg separating tool. If you use your
hands, you risk contaminating the fatless egg whites with oil, limiting
their ability to whip up. Allow these egg whites to come to room
temperature because room temperature egg whites whip better and are
less likely to be curdled by hot syrup (for the Italian meringue) or when
being heated over a double boiler (for the Swiss meringue).
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk 2. With mixer on low speed, add sugar in a slow, steady stream,
attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at beating until combined. (This should take about 3 minutes.) With
medium-low speed until soft peaks form, 5 to 6 minutes. meringue, slow and steady always wins the race. If you dump all
This first step is crucial to creating a stable, smooth meringue. of your sugar in at once, you risk collapsing the egg foam and are
Your egg mixture should have a droop to its peaks but still guaranteeing a gritty meringue, as the sugar won’t be smoothly
be cohesive. If you add the sugar in at the beginning, before incorporated and won’t dissolve. Try streaming in the sugar
whipping the whites into a soft peak, the meringue will come 1 teaspoon (4 grams) at a time to keep from overloading
out dense and not whip up nearly as well. the mixture.
3. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until thick and shiny, 10 to 12 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl halfway
through mixing. Over these 10 to 12 minutes, your meringue will go through three stages: soft peak, medium peak, and stiff peak.
Above, you can see what that looks like. When your whisk attachment is inverted, your meringue peak will either droop, dip, or stand
tall. You want that meringue standing tall, ensuring it can be piped and hold its shape. Another sign your meringue is ready? Rub
meringue between two fingers to make sure it’s smooth, showing the sugar has dissolved.
2. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, 3. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. Using the whisk
whisking frequently, until sugar completely dissolves and an attachment, beat at high speed until stiff peaks form and
instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F bowl is cool to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla. You’ll
(54°C). The double boiler method allows your mixture to receive know when your meringue is ready by both touch and sight, as
gentle heat. Still, constant whisking helps keep the mixture from the moment the bowl becomes cool is also the moment your
curdling and making sure that the sugar melts evenly. Some meringue is properly whipped. This method has a shorter mixing
recipes recommend you rub the mixture between your fingers to time than the French meringue, as the sugar is already dissolved
tell when the sugar has dissolved, but to avoid singed fingertips, we and doesn’t need excess mixing to be incorporated.
recommend you use your thermometer.
2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 3. Increase mixer speed to high, and beat until stiff peaks form
whisk attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at and bowl is cool to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in vanilla.
medium speed until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. With mixer This mixing time is significantly shorter than that of the French
on medium speed, pour hot sugar syrup between side of bowl meringue. Why? You’ve already won half the battle by dissolving
and whisk attachment in a slow, steady stream. Again, slow and your sugar into a syrup. Much of the mixing time with French
steady. Be careful not to have your syrup stream hit the sides of meringue is about incorporating the crystalline sugar. As a syrup,
the bowls, as the shock of cold can cause the syrup to crystallize the process is much faster.
and harden. And be sure the mixer is on, as the constant
movement keeps the sugar from pooling in one spot, curdling your
egg white proteins.
march | april 2021 38
Pipe and Bake
How to nail that final step for meringue kisses
1. Transfer meringue to a large pastry bag fitted with a piping tip. For easy meringue
transfer, place pastry bag in a large jar or glass and fold the bag edges over the lip
of the glass before spooning in meringue. Holding tip perpendicular to parchment
paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide, 1-inch-high meringue kisses at least ½ inch apart on
prepared pans. Apply even, gentle pressure as you go along so you don’t push the
air out of the meringue.
2. Bake until dry to the touch, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Turn oven off, and leave
meringue kisses in oven with door closed for 1 hour. Consider the time you bake
the meringues as setting the shape, while the hour-long rest in the oven afterward
a period for the meringues to dry out. Don’t be tempted to open the oven during
this baking and resting period, as the sudden drop in temperature can cause your
meringues to crack. Remove from oven (meringues will peel off parchment without
sticking), and let cool completely on pans.
Meringue Diagnostics
Make sure to avoid these common mistakes that can turn meringue into meh-ringue
PRO TIP
To make extra-fine granulated sugar or castor sugar, place granulated sugar in the work bowl of a food processor, the container of a
blender, or a spice grinder. (If using a large food processor, make sure there is enough sugar to cover the blades.) Pulse until sugar
resembles fine sand, about 2 pulses. Make sure you don’t pulse too much; otherwise, you’ll end up with confectioners’ sugar.
SWISS MERINGUE KISSES ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla.
Makes about 80 kisses ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 3. Preheat oven to 225°F (107°C). Line
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
For Swiss meringue, egg whites and 4. Transfer meringue to a large pastry
granulated sugar are heated in the top of 1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, bag fitted with a Wilton 1M open star
a double boiler until the sugar melts and whisk together sugar, egg whites, cream piping tip. Holding tip perpendicular to
an instant-read thermometer registers of tartar, and salt by hand. Place bowl over parchment paper, pipe 1¼-inch-wide,
120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Once the a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, 1-inch-high meringue kisses at least ½ inch
mixture reaches this temperature range, it is whisking frequently, until sugar completely apart on prepared pans.
whipped to glossy stiff peaks, about the time dissolves and an instant-read thermometer 5. Bake until dry to the touch, 45 minutes
it takes for the entire mixture to cool down. registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). to 1 hour. Turn oven off, and leave
Swiss meringue is stiff and stable, great for 2. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. meringue kisses in oven with door closed
becoming a Swiss meringue buttercream or Using the whisk attachment, beat at high for 1 hour. Remove from oven (meringues
enrobing a baked Alaska. speed until stiff peaks form and bowl is cool will peel off parchment without sticking),
and let cool completely on pans. Best
1 cup (200 grams) extra-fine served same day.
granulated sugar
½ cup (120 grams) egg whites, room
temperature
ITALIAN MERINGUE KISSES
Makes about 120 kisses
PRO TIP
To make castor sugar, place granulated
sugar in the work bowl of a food
processor, the container of a blender,
or a spice grinder. (If using a large food
processor, make sure there is enough
sugar to cover the blades.) Pulse until
sugar resembles fine sand, about 2 times.
Make sure you don’t pulse too much;
otherwise, you’ll turn your granulated
sugar into confectioners’ sugar.
MAKE AHEAD
The roulade can be made 1 day before serving.
Bake the meringue and prepare the whipped cream
mixture the day before, and assemble on the day
you serve the roulade.
This meringue roulade is best eaten the day it’s
made, but it can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.
However, please note that the meringue will soften
and the strawberries will begin to weep their juices
into the whipped cream mixture.
BASIL SOUR CREAM
SCONES WITH MACERATED
STRAWBERRIES
Makes 9 to 10 scones
FOLLOW EMMA
INSTAGRAM:
@EMMADUCKWORTHBAKES
WEBSITE:
EMMADUCKWORTHBAKES.CO.UK
52
perfectly
Imperfect
PRO TIP
When decorating with fresh banana
slices, lightly coat the slices in fresh
lemon juice to prevent the fruit from
browning. To accomplish this, lay the
freshly cut banana slices flat on a piece
of parchment paper. Using a pastry
brush, gently brush the slices with
fresh lemon juice. Turn the slices over,
brush the opposite side. Use the lemon
juice sparingly, though. Alternatively,
garnish the cake with banana slices and
whole vanilla wafers just before serving
for optimal freshness. •
Lemon-Blueberry Pastry Rolls
page 76
ROUGH PUFF
AND READY
TRADITIONAL PUFF PASTRY, PÂTE FEUILLETÉE, IS MADE BY ROLLING, CHILLING, REROLLING, AND RECHILLING
DOUGH OVER AND OVER AGAIN, CREATING LAYERS UPON LAYERS OF BUTTER AND DOUGH.
A FINAL COUNT OF 73 TO A WHOPPING 729 PAPER-THIN LAYERS IS THE PASTRY CHEF’S GOAL. AS THE
LAYERS OF COLD BUTTER HIT THE HEAT OF THE OVEN, STEAM CAUSES THE DOUGH TO PUFF, CREATING
THE ICONIC BUTTERY FLAKINESS SEEN IN PASTRIES SUCH AS CROISSANTS. ALTHOUGH OUR ADMIRATION
FOR THE ART OF PUFF IS STRONG, WE DON’T ALWAYS HAVE THE TIME TO PULL TOGETHER A CLASSIC
PUFF PASTRY DOUGH, AND FOR THAT, WE HAVE DEVELOPED THREE ROUGH PUFF RECIPES THAT COME
TOGETHER FASTER THAN THE TRADITIONAL WITHOUT SKIMPING ON LAMINATION.
TRICIA MANZANERO
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
FOOD STYLING BY MEGAN LANKFORD / STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
Chocolate-Hazelnut Bear Claws
page 77
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 15x8-inch rectangle, 2. With one short side closest to you, fold top third of dough over
lightly flouring surface and top of dough as needed. center third of dough, leaving bottom third exposed.
3. Fold bottom third of dough over top of dough, as if you were 4. Folding the dough like a letter stacks the pieces of butter within
folding a letter to fit into an envelope. the dough. This repeated stacking creates layers of butter, allowing
for the signature “puff” when the butter steams in the oven.
These puff pastry pinwheels are flaky, sweet, and tangy. With all the familiarity of
buttery palmiers, these round treats boast dynamic flavors from lemon zest and
crushed freeze-dried blueberries.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat flour,
cold butter, and salt at low speed just until butter is coated with flour. With
mixer on low speed, add ½ cup (120 grams) ice water in a slow, steady stream,
beating just until dough comes together, about 1 minute. (There will still be
large pieces of butter.) On a lightly floured surface, shape dough into a 6-inch
square. Wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly
flouring surface and top of dough as needed. Fold dough into thirds, like a
letter. Rotate dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch rectangle, and fold into
thirds, like a letter. Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and
refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (See Note on page 78.)
3. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
parchment paper.
4. In a small bowl, stir together blueberries, sugar, and lemon zest until
fragrant and well combined.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 20x10-inch rectangle. Brush
dough with melted butter, leaving a ½-inch border on one long side; sprinkle
butter with blueberry mixture. Starting with long side opposite border, roll up
dough, jelly roll style; place seam side down. Using a serrated knife dipped in
flour, gently slice into 24 rolls (about ¾ inch thick each); wipe and flour knife
between cuts as needed. Place, cut side up, 2 inches apart on prepared pans,
tucking loose ends under slices to secure.
6. Bake until lightly golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on pans on wire
racks for at least 15 minutes before serving, or let cool to room temperature.
Drizzle with Lemon Glaze. Garnish with lemon zest, if desired.
LEMON GLAZE
Makes about ¾ cup
1. In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients until smooth and well combined.
Use immediately.
CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT BEAR 2 (15x5½-inch) rectangles; cut each half SMOKED SALMON-ASPARAGUS
CLAWS into 3 (5½x5-inch) rectangles. TARTS
Makes 6 pastries 6. Position 1 dough rectangle with a 5-inch Makes 8 pastries
side closest to you. Place 1 filling rectangle
Traditionally a yeast-leavened Danish pastry on lower half of rectangle, leaving ¾-inch A savory take on puff pastry, Smoked
with eye-catching lamination, making the border. Brush all edges of dough with egg; Salmon-Asparagus Tarts are perfect for any
dough for bear claws could be an all-day fold dough over filling to make 5-inch meal, from a light and flaky replacement for
affair. Thankfully, with our quick rough puff, sides meet, pressing edges firmly to seal. your favorite lox-topped everything bagel in
you can still get all the flakiness you love but Using a pizza wheel, trim ⅛- to 1⁄16-inch the morning to a colorful appetizer for guests
with no rise time and extra-fast lamination. of dough off sealed edges to further seal. or family. The rectangular shape shows off
Chocolate and hazelnut come together Using a paring knife, make 4 (¾-inch-long) layers of gorgeous lamination, and people will
to make a rich and nutty filling. A final equally spaced cuts along long, sealed think you spent all day making them—but
sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar and these edge of dough, being careful not to cut don’t worry, your secret is safe with us.
homemade bear claws will take hold of your through to filling. Repeat procedure with
taste buds. remaining dough rectangles and remaining 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
filling. Place at least ¾ to 1 inch apart on 1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour remaining prepared pan, gently curving to butter, cubed
1¼ cups (284 grams) cold unsalted spread out cuts. Freeze for 10 minutes. 2¼ teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt,
butter, cubed 7. Brush tops of dough with egg; sprinkle divided
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt with pearl sugar. ½ cup (120 grams) ice water
½ cup (120 grams) ice water 8. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven 8 ounces (226 grams) cream cheese,
Chocolate-Hazelnut Filling (recipe temperature to 375°F (190°C), softened
follows) and bake until puffed and golden brown, ¼ cup (24 grams) finely shredded
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten about 10 minutes. Let cool on pans for Parmesan cheese
Swedish pearl sugar, for sprinkling 15 minutes. 1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
2 tablespoons (2 grams) chopped fresh
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT FILLING dill
the paddle attachment, beat flour, cold Makes ⅔ cup ½ teaspoon (1 gram) garlic powder
butter, and salt at low speed just until 40 (3½-inch-long) spears (140 to
butter is coated with flour. With mixer on ½ cup (48 grams) finely ground hazelnut 160 grams) trimmed medium fresh
low speed, add ½ cup (120 grams) ice water flour asparagus
in a slow, steady stream, beating just until 3 tablespoons (21 grams) confectioners’ 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
dough comes together, about 1 minute. sugar Everything bagel seasoning, for sprinkling
(There will still be large pieces of butter.) ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 4 ounces (113 grams) thinly sliced
On a lightly floured surface, shape dough ⅓ cup (92 grams) chocolate hazelnut smoked salmon
into a 6-inch square. Wrap in plastic wrap; spread* Pickled Red Onion (recipe follows)
refrigerate for 30 minutes. 1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough temperature 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly flouring 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted the paddle attachment, beat flour, cold
surface and top of dough as needed. Fold butter, melted butter, and 2 teaspoons (6 grams) salt at
dough into thirds, like a letter. Rotate low speed just until butter is coated with
dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch 1. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, flour. With mixer on low speed, add ½ cup
rectangle, and fold into thirds, like a letter. confectioners’ sugar, and salt. Add (120 grams) ice water in a slow, steady
Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in chocolate hazelnut spread, egg yolk, and stream, beating just until dough comes
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least melted butter; stir until well combined, together, about 1 minute. (There will still
1 hour. (See Note on page 78.) kneading together by hand toward end if be large pieces of butter.) On a lightly
3. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line needed. (Mixture will be quite thick.) Use floured surface, shape dough into a 6-inch
2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment immediately. square. Wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for
paper. 30 minutes.
4. Divide Chocolate-Hazelnut Filling into *We used Nutella. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
6 portions (about 2 tablespoons [about into a 15x8-inch rectangle, lightly flouring
34 grams] each), and place on a prepared surface and top of dough as needed. Fold
pan; shape each portion into a 3¼x1¾-inch dough into thirds, like a letter. Rotate
rectangle, and cover with plastic wrap. dough 90 degrees; roll into a 15x8-inch
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough rectangle, and fold into thirds, like a letter.
into a 16x11½-inch rectangle. Trim edges Repeat procedure once. Wrap dough in
to create a 15x11-inch rectangle. Cut plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least
rectangle in half lengthwise to create 1 hour. (See Note on page 78.)
1. After cutting dough into 2¾-inch rounds, 2. Using the back of a small knife, make a 3. Before folding, brush the top of each oval
gently stretch each circle into a 3x2-inch crease crosswise in the center of each oval. with melted butter. Fold each oval in half
oval, placing the smoothest side facing Take care not cut through the dough. The along the crease, pressing to seal.
downward. indentation will mark where to fold the roll.
PRO TIP
This recipe calls for steady kneading. Don’t rush—you
can go from smooth to tearing the dough pretty quickly.
Go slow and pay attention to your dough. Re-flour your
hands when the dough tears as you pull your hands away.
You will need to re-flour your hands and surface a lot in
the beginning and sparingly toward the end. It starts to
get smooth around 4 minutes, but it is not elastic yet.
Knead for about 1 minute more, and it gets smoother
and elastic. Perform a finger dent test to make sure the
dough is ready: gently press your finger about ½ inch into
the surface. If your dough has been properly kneaded,
you should be able to watch the dough spring back
completely.
CLOCKWISE: DARINA’S KITCHEN, THE BALLEYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL COWS, AND DARINA BAKING
101 bake from scratch
DARINA ALLEN’S SIMNEL CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
Mixed fruit:
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (110 grams) fresh cherries
2¾ cups (352 grams) golden raisins
2¾ cups (352 grams) dried currants
2¾ cups (352 grams) raisins
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (110 grams) candied
citrus peel (such as orange or lemon)
½ cup (50 grams) ground almonds 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Heaping ⅓ cup (50 grams) whole almonds, blanched and finely 6. For batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
chopped attachment, beat butter at medium speed until very soft. Add
Zest of 1 lemon (3 grams) brown sugar, and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy,
Zest of 1 orange (5 grams) stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey well after each addition.
7. In a medium bowl, stir together flour and mixed spice. Gently
Almond paste: stir flour mixture into butter mixture.
1 pound (454 grams) ground almonds 8. Add apple to mixed fruit. Add mixed fruit to batter, and gently
1 pound (454 grams) castor sugar, sifted stir just until combined. (Don’t beat mixture again or you will
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten toughen cake.) Spoon half of batter into prepared pan. Roll about
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey half of almond paste into an 8½-inch disk. Place on top of batter
2 drops pure almond extract in pan, and cover with remaining batter. Make a slight hollow in
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting center. Dip your hand in water, and pat surface of batter. (This will
ensure top is smooth when cooked.) Cover with a single sheet of
Batter: parchment paper.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter 9. Bake for 1 hour. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F (160°C),
1 cup plus 1 teaspoon (225 grams) firmly packed light brown and bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean
sugar (see Notes), 3 to 3½ hours. Pour whiskey over hot cake, and let
6 large eggs* (300 grams), lightly beaten cool completely in pan. Let stand overnight.
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (274 grams) all-purpose flour 10. Remove cake from pan. Wrap cake, with parchment, in plastic
1 teaspoon (2 grams) mixed spice or pumpkin pie spice wrap and foil until ready to serve.
1 large or 2 small Bramley’s Seedling apples or Granny Smith 11. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
apples (185 grams), grated 12. Roll half of remaining almond paste into a 9-inch disk.
Brush cake with egg white, and top with almond paste disk. Roll
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish whiskey remaining almond paste into 11 balls. Score top of cake in 1½-inch
1 large egg (50 grams), separated and beaten squares or diamonds. Brush with egg yolk, stick almond paste balls
1 large egg (50 grams), beaten around outer edge of top, and brush with beaten egg.
13. Bake until slightly golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm, or let
1. Line a 9-inch round cake pan or an 8-inch square baking pan cool completely, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for
with parchment paper. several weeks.
2. For mixed fruit: Wash cherries, and dry them. Halve or quarter
as desired. In a large bowl, combine cherries, golden raisins, *Darina prefers organic free-range eggs for this recipe.
currants, raisins, candied peel, ground almonds, chopped almonds,
lemon zest, and orange zest. Add whiskey, and let stand for 1 hour. Notes: When you are testing for doneness, insert the wooden pick at
3. For almond paste: In a large bowl, whisk together ground an angle because the almond paste can give a false reading.
almonds and castor sugar.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg, whiskey, and almond Almond paste may also be used to ice the side of the cake. You will
extract. Add egg mixture to almond mixture, and stir until need an additional ½ recipe of the almond paste.
combined and a stiff paste forms. (You may not need all of the egg
mixture.) Dust work surface with confectioners’ sugar; turn out This cake keeps for weeks or even months, but while still delicious, it
almond paste, and gently knead until smooth. changes both in texture and flavor as it matures.
march | april 2021 102
GEMMA STAFFORD
Gemma Stafford is the sensational Irish professional baker behind the website and YouTube channel Bigger Bolder
Baking. She released her first cookbook, Bigger Bolder Baking: A Fearless Approach to Baking Anytime, Anywhere
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), in 2019, introducing a whole new generation of bakers to her accessible recipes.
PAGE LEFT: TEA AT KYLEMORE ABBEY / PAGE RIGHT: A VIEW OF LOUGH CORRIB, A GRAND LAKE IN WESTERN IRELAND; SCONES MADE AT BALLEYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL
SHANE SMITH
Shane Smith’s love of culinary arts started at a young age, and he was inspired by his two grandmothers and his
mother, who were all avid home bakers. Over the years, Shane has received numerous awards in recognition for his
work, including Best Bakery Manager in Ireland. He is a regular contributor to the Irish Times, the Irish Independent,
Easy Food Magazine, and other national publications.
CLOCKWISE: BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND; SHANE’S HOME IN DUBLIN; SHANE’S CHOCOLATE TART
105 bake from scratch
WHISKEY MARMALADE HOT CROSS
BREAD & BUTTER PUDDING
Makes 6 servings
PRO TIP
If you can’t get your hands on hot cross buns, you can
easily imitate the flavor by incorporating warm spices
and dried fruit. Start with a plain white bread roll like milk
bread rolls or brioche rolls, relatively neutral but sweet
bread doughs. Then, once you halve the rolls, you can add
½ cup (64 grams) candied orange peel, raisins, or golden
raisins after you spread on the butter and marmalade. To
the custard, add 1 teaspoon (2 grams) mixed spice, such
as ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon
ground nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves. •
march | april 2021 106
origin of a classic
FROM THE SPANISH ISLES TO
SOUTHEAST ASIA, WE TRACE
The beginning of that story starts on the Spanish isle of Mallorca with a
spiral-shaped pastry called ensaïmada. Saïm in Catalan means “lard”—an
essential in this recipe. A yeasted dough is rolled paper-thin before being
slathered with the soft rendered pork fat. It’s then rolled, coiled, and allowed
to ferment for 12 to 18 hours. Once baked, the ensaïmada boasts a golden-
brown crust that gives way to an airy, almost flaky interior, all of which gets
dusted in confectioners’ sugar.
Although ensaymadas during the Spanish colonial era initially mirrored their
Mallorcan counterparts, the pastry and its preparation gradually evolved.
The name took on its Tagalog spelling. The bread became more brioche-like,
with the fat now also added into the dough. As locals began to interpret the
recipe for themselves, the ensaymada-making process became as varied as
the Filipino population itself.
Today, some traditional ensaymada employ a three-stage sponge-and-dough method. ENSAYMADAS
Others take a more streamlined straight-dough approach. Beyond lard, ensaymada Makes 16 ensaymadas
could now include butter, margarine, oil, or a mix of a few fats. Some may even
involve potato water or mashed potatoes, which promote a soft texture. After rising, Get a taste of the Philippines, no airplane
the dough is divided. Each portion is rolled thin and brushed with fat. A sprinkling of ticket needed. Our Baking & Pastry Editor’s
cheese sometimes follows, helping to distinguish the layers, before the dough gets take on this beloved Filipino pastry features
rolled into a rope and coiled. (In some areas, the dough ropes are twisted for a double- a super-soft bread base crowned with a
coiled effect.) These spirals are then placed in fluted molds or spread on baking sheets. browned butter-sugar spread and savory
After a final proof, they’re baked, cooled, and coated in butter, sugar, and cheese. Cheddar cheese. The sweet-salty combo
is perfect for any occasion, from special
Several ensaymada interpretations exist. Alongside bready Spanish-style versions, holidays to an everyday afternoon snack.
there are also now ultra-soft, almost cake-like iterations, and even stuffed options
filled with everything from ube (purple yam) to coconut. The type of ensaymada you 3 to 3¼ cups (375 to 406 grams)
encounter can hinge on locale. At the corner panaderia, ensaymadas are affordable, all-purpose flour, divided
flat coils finished with just margarine and sugar. Travel to Pampanga, and you’ll find ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
the province’s cemada are big, boldly flavored, and richly colored due to ample egg 1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams)
yolks, butter, and cheese. A wooden rod is used to roll and hang the dough, stretching instant yeast*
it thinner for a flakier result. Meanwhile, in Bulacan, their large enseimada come 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
adorned with slices of salted duck egg and Chinese ham. ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
¼ cup (60 grams) water
Each ensaymada has its own diehard devotees. Within my family alone, what and who ¼ cup (56 grams) refined coconut oil,
makes the best ensaymadas is an ongoing debate. Everyone has their own favorite room temperature, roughly cut into
bakery—Conti’s, Hizon’s, and Mary Grace are among the top contenders. My parents ½- to ¾-inch chunks
and I have waged spirited dinner discussions merely on whether Cheddar, Parmesan, 3 large egg yolks (56 grams), room
or Edam makes the best garnish. On top of that, ensaymadas undeniably hold a special temperature
place in Filipino culture. Many associate ensaymadas with holidays like Easter and 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted
Christmas. Its delicate crumb structure is steeped in history and festive memories. butter, cubed, softened, and divided
Sugary Browned Butter Topping (recipe
Many families have heirloom recipes inherited from their lolas (grandmothers). And I follows)
know from growing up, there is no topping a lola’s recipe. Instead, what I offer is just Garnish: finely shredded sharp white
my own proud ensaymada interpretation. Taking up where my Grandpa Helding left Cheddar cheese (see Notes)
off, I first focused on the bread itself. Pure butter tests, though tender, lacked that
same melt-in-your-mouth quality. Through research, I figured there was a reason 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
several ensaymada recipes turned to shortening or oil. I, therefore, used a combo of the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup
coconut oil for similar gluten-preventing, shelf life-extending properties mixed with (125 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt at
some butter for its irreplaceable flavor. A low baking temperature of 300°F (150°C) low speed until combined.
then ensured my ensaymadas also had an ultra-soft exterior. Beyond texture, keeping 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and
the process unintimidating was another goal. A straight-dough method made these ¼ cup (60 grams) water over medium
ensaymadas easy to enjoy on the same day. As far as toppings, I kept things classic heat until an instant-read thermometer
with a slight twist, adding in browned butter—one of my favorite flavors—to give registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).
these ensaymadas a distinct, nutty depth. Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture;
beat at medium speed for 2 minutes,
More new takes are also now available thanks to bakers around the globe. In the stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
Philippines, Baby Pat Breads—a home-based operation in Santa Rosa run by 2 cups (250 grams) flour, coconut oil,
Pearl M. de Guzman—creates colorfully packaged ensaymadas in creative flavors egg yolks, and 3 tablespoons (42 grams)
including speculoos and Nutella. Stateside, Filipino expat Chari Heredia-Reyes heads butter; beat at medium-low speed just until
Ensaymada Project in North Hollywood, California, adapting her mother’s recipe to combined. Scrape sides of bowl.
craft out-of-the-box options like Oreo and red velvet. Head to eastern Canada and 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
you’ll find Ensanemada in Toronto, Ontario, helmed by Charmaine Gadea and her Beat at medium-low speed until a soft,
partner; their lineup lists Mango Tango and Matcha Made in Heaven, among others. shiny, sticky dough forms, about
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, home-based bakery Pan de London is bringing 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl
ensaymada flavors like espresso mocha and Thai tea Biscoff to England. and dough hook; add up to remaining
¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon
Whether you decide to bake your own or try one of these artisanal offerings, your (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too loose
ensaymada experience is yours to personalize. If my family is any sort of reflection, or overly sticky. (Be careful not to add too
ensaymadas continue to be a means of establishing identity and individuality as much much flour; this dough is supposed to be
as they’re a symbol of our shared history and heritage. My hope is that this recipe quite soft and sticky.)
sparks memories for you and your loved ones, too. Whether you choose to share or 4. Scrape sides of bowl; gently pull up and
shamelessly hoard your ensaymadas is up to you. fold sides of dough to form a rough ball.
Turn folded side down; cover and let rise in dough, and let rise in a warm, draft-free directly on parchment paper-lined baking
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until place (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in sheets. If making ensaymadas on baking
doubled in size, about 1 hour. size, 20 to 30 minutes. sheets, tuck loose ends underneath coiled
5. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Spray 9. Bake until lightly golden, about dough to secure.
16 (3¼-inch) brioche molds with baking 20 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway
spray with flour (see Notes); place evenly through baking. Let cool in molds for SUGARY BROWNED BUTTER TOPPING
spaced on a rimmed baking sheet. 5 minutes. Remove from molds, and let Makes about 1 cup
6. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat cool completely on wire racks.
remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter 10. Using a small offset spatula, spread Sugary ⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter,
on high in 10-second intervals until melted. Browned Butter Topping on top of cooled softened
7. Punch down dough; cover and let stand ensaymadas. Garnish with cheese, if desired. ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
for 5 minutes. Turn out dough onto a ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
lightly floured surface; divide into *We used Platinum Yeast® from Red Star®
16 portions (about 50 grams each). Shape —a premium instant yeast mixed with dough 1. In a medium light-colored metal
each portion into a 5-inch log; loosely improvers—to further promote a light, tender saucepan, cook butter over medium heat,
cover logs with sheets of plastic wrap. texture. In lieu of Platinum Yeast, however, stirring frequently, until butter solids are
8. Pat or roll 1 dough log into an 8x3-inch instant yeast will do just fine. golden and nutty in aroma, 7 to 12 minutes.
rectangle; brush rectangle with melted Pour browned butter into a square glass
butter, leaving a ½-inch border on one Notes: Ensaymadas are often topped with baking dish or medium bowl; refrigerate
long side. Starting with long side opposite queso de bola. It can be difficult to locate, until solid, 2 to 3 hours. Let stand at room
border, roll up dough rectangle, jelly roll but if you can find this type of Edam cheese temperature until softened before using,
style; pinch seam to seal. (It’s OK if a bit in your area, definitely give it a try. If not, 30 to 40 minutes.
of butter squishes out.) Place seam side substitute with sharp Cheddar (as we do in 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
down. Starting on one end of rolled dough, this recipe) or mild Parmesan (a favorite the paddle attachment, beat softened
coil into a spiral shape; lightly press loose swap-in of my mom’s). browned butter, sugar, and salt at medium
end into side to adhere, and gently place speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Use
in 1 prepared mold. Repeat with remaining If you don’t have brioche molds, these immediately.
dough and melted butter, wiping and lightly ensaymadas can also be baked in standard
flouring surface as needed. Cover shaped 12-cup muffin pans, jumbo muffin pans, or
SHAPING SAVVY You’re three simple steps away from perfectly spiraled ensaymadas
STEP 1: Pat or roll 1 dough log into an STEP 2: Starting with long side opposite STEP 3: Place rolled dough seam side
8x3-inch rectangle; brush rectangle with border, roll up dough rectangle, jelly roll down; starting on one end, coil into a
melted butter, leaving a ½-inch border style, and pinch seam to seal. (Don’t worry spiral shape. Lightly press loose end into
on one long side. if some butter squishes out.) side to adhere, and gently place in
1 prepared mold. •
Forgotten Cookies
MERINGUE-LIKE TREATS THAT VIRTUALLY BAKE THEMSELVES,
FORGOTTEN COOKIES ALLOW YOU TO GO ABOUT YOUR DAY OR NIGHT
AND RETURN EIGHT HOURS LATER TO COOKIE PERFECTION
Note: Resist the urge to open the oven before the cookies
are finished, as this will allow the heat to escape. After
8 hours, these cookies can remain in the cold oven for several
more hours until you are ready to enjoy them. After about
12 hours, you’ll want to place the cookies in an airtight
container to prevent any softening caused by the humidity in
the air.
Have a baking question for Trish? Email us at [email protected] and your question could be featured in our next issue!
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