EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

BARCELONA
& CATALONIA
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

BARCELONA
& CATALONIA
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: ROGER WILLIAMS
 CONTENTS
INTRODUCING
BARCELONA AND
CATALONIA
PROJECT EDITOR Catherine Day
ART EDITORS Carolyn Hewitson, Marisa Renzullo
EDITORS Elizabeth Atherton, Felicity Crowe
DESIGNER Suzanne Metcalfe-Megginson
MAP CO-ORDINATOR David Pugh
PICTURE RESEARCH Monica Allende
DTP DESIGNERS Samantha Borland, Lee Redmond,
Pamela Shiels
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Roger Williams
MAPS
Jane Hanson, Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley (Lovell Jones Ltd),
Gary Bowes, Richard Toomey (ERA-Maptec Ltd)
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jaume I, “El Conquistador”,
Max Alexander, Mike Dunning, Heidi Grassley, Alan Keohane ruler of Catalonia 1213–76
ILLUSTRATORS
Stephen Conlin, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas
(Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Claire Littlejohn, FOUR GREAT DAYS IN
Maltings Partnership, John Woodcock BARCELONA 10
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by South China Printing Co. Ltd. PUTTING BARCELONA
First published in Great Britain in 1999 AND CATALONIA
by Dorling Kindersley Limited ON THE MAP 12
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2002,
2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 (001) A PORTRAIT OF
CATALONIA 16
Copyright 1999, 2011 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
CATALONIA THROUGH
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE
REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY THE YEAR 34
FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING,
RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION
OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.
THE HISTORY OF
CATALONIA 40
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-1-4053-4704-4
Front cover main image: Roof terrace of Gaudí’s
Casa Batlló

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. One of the many popular cafés in
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date Barcelona’s redeveloped Old Port
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The pub-
lishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising BARCELONA
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party web-
sites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
AREA BY AREA
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: BARCELONA AT A
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, or email [email protected]. GLANCE 50
Previous pages: Bench, Park Güell, Barcelona; Miravet on the Riu Ebre, southern Catalonia
 SURVIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 174

TRAVEL INFORMATION
182

STREET FINDER 188

GENERAL INDEX
198

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The small, whitewashed town of Cadaqués on the Costa Brava 205

OLD TOWN 52 TRAVELLERS’

NEEDS
EIXAMPLE 70
WHERE TO STAY 132
MONTJUÏC 84
RESTAURANTS, CAFES
FURTHER AFIELD 92 AND BARS 142

THREE GUIDED WALKS SHOPPING IN Pa amb tomàquet – bread rubbed

100 BARCELONA 154 with tomato, garlic and olive oil

ENTERTAINMENT IN CATALAN PHRASE

BARCELONA 162 BOOK 207
OUTDOOR BARCELONA METRO
ACTIVITIES 170 AND TRAIN ROUTES
Inside back cover

Spectacular stained-glass roof of

the Palau de la Música Catalana

CATALONIA
LLEIDA, ANDORRA,
GIRONA,
BARCELONA Barcelona Cathedral,
PROVINCE, in the heart of the city’s
TARRAGONA 108 extensive and well-preserved
Gothic Quarter
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide has expert recommen-
dations and detailed practical
information to enrich any visit to
Barcelona and Catalonia. Introducing
Barcelona and Catalonia puts the area
city’s top attractions; Old Town,
Eixample and Montjuïc explore Barce-
lona’s central districts in more detail;
Further Afield views sights outside the
city centre; and Catalonia delves into
in geographical, historical and cultural the region’s four provinces. Travellers’
context. Barcelona and Catalonia is Needs covers hotels, restaurants and
a six-chapter guide to important sights: entertainment. The Survival Guide
Barcelona at a Glance highlights the provides vital practical information.

BARCELONA 
     


 

 

 


AND CATALONIA 


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H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
     
 




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INTRODUCING
BARCELONA
AND CATALONIA

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN BARCELONA 1011

PUTTING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA
ON THE MAP 1215
A PORTRAIT OF CATALONIA 1633
CATALONIA THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF CATALONIA 4047
10 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN BARCELONA

D ays are long in Barcelona.
The morning extends
until well after midday,
with lunch often starting around
2pm, and the late opening
the most of your visit with a bit of
planning. Each of these four
itineraries follows a theme
and sights are reachable
using public transport. Prices
hours mean that afternoon merges include travel, food and
into evening. With so much time at Sagrada admission. Family prices are for
Familia
your disposal you’ll want to make two adults and two children.

GAUDÍ GREATS

• Casa Batlló’s organic forms

• Gaudí’s extraordinary
church, Sagrada Familia
• An evening’s shopping in
style in Passeig de Gràcia

TWO ADULTS allow at least €60

Morning
For many visitors, Barcelona
is synonymous with the
unique architecture of Antoni
La Rambla, an exciting avenue for a stroll at any time Gaudí. He created many
great buildings, all of which
Afternoon are worth visiting, but here
HISTORIC TREASURES After lunch, take a guided are two places to make a
tour of the Palau de la start. Begin your day with
• A stroll round the Gothic Música Catalana (see pp62–3) a visit to Gaudí’s most
quarter and museums and its dazzling Modernista colourful and eccentric
• A Modernista concert hall interior. After that, plunge house, Casa Batlló (see
• Non-stop life on Spain’s into the atmospheric Born pp76–7). Discover its
most famous street district (see pp102–3), with fantastic organic forms and
its trendy shops. Take a pay the extra fee to extend
TWO ADULTS allow at least €40 look in the Museu Picasso your tour to see the roof
(see pp64–5), then wander with its remarkable chimneys
Morning to La Rambla, a busy street and “dragon’s back”. A little
Barcelona’s preserved where there is always further up the road is the
medieval centre is the Barri plenty of activity. equally renowned Casa Milà,
Gótic (see pp54–5), a warren also known as La Pedrera
of streets where it is easy to (see p79). This can also
get lost. You can happily be visited, but if you’re short
spend the morning here of time its remarkable façade
without walking great can be admired from the
distances. The focal point is outside. For lunch, you’ll
the Cathedral (see pp58–9). find there are several
Next to it is the Palau Reial budget-priced restaurants
(Royal Palace), part of in the streets near and
which is now the Museu parallel to Passeig de Gràcia.
d’História de la Ciutat (see
pp56–7), where you can take Afternoon/Evening
a fascinating subterranean Visit Gaudí’s greatest,
stroll over the excavated unfinished work, the
ruins of Roman Barcelona. Sagrada FamÍlia (see
The palace also houses what pp80–3). Allow plenty of
is perhaps Barcelona’s most time to make sense of the
fascinating museum, the dense detail on the two
eclectic Museu Frederic façades of this extraordinary
Marès (see p56). There are church – the Passion façade
plenty of places for a budget Richly ornamental interior of and the Nativity façade –
lunch in this area. Palau de la Musica Catalana and also to explore the

El Paralelo 1930, a portrait of one of Barcelona’s main avenues in 1930 by Emili Bosch Roger (1894–1980)
 F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N B A R C E L O N A 11

FAMILY FUN

• A trip to the funfair

• A harbour cruise
• Sharks at the aquarium
• IMAX cinema experience

FAMILY OF 4 allow at least €100

Morning
Tibidabo Amusement Park
(see pp98–9), on the highest
hill behind Barcelona, is a
family day out in itself, with
getting there by tram and
funicular half the fun. But if
you don’t want to go that far,
stroll down Las Ramblas and
take the lift up the Monument
a Colom (see pp68–9) for a
Casa Batlló, a house in an alternative architectural universe good view of this part of the
city. From the nearby
vertigo-inducing fantasy taster. Start at 10am when quayside, board a Golondrina
towers (you go up by lift the Museu Nacional d’Art (see p69) for a cruise round
and return by stairs). Coming de Catalunya (see p88) opens the harbour. Then cross the
back down to reality, return on Montjuïc hill (also take wavy footbridge for the
to the Passeig de Gràcia and time to enjoy the great Maremagnum shopping cen-
browse in its stylish shops. view). Here, you’ll see tre, also the best place to
Look out for the design what is arguably the best grab a bite to eat.
emporium, Vinçon (see p155). collection of Romanesque art
in any museum. Close by is Afternoon/Evening
the city’s latest contemporary Attractions that are specifically
art gallery, CaixaForum (see for children can, if you want
p98), situated in a Modernista to extend the day, be saved
factory. Lunch in a local café. until after dark. The Aquarium
(see p68) offers several activ-
Afternoon ities for kids, as well as tanks
For a change of pace, make full of sharks and other fasci-
your way to the Monestir de nating creatures. Next to it,
Pedralbes (see p95), a lovely watch the hugely realistic
14th-century monastery with (and stomach-churning)
numerous religious objects show at the IMAX Cinema
and works of art on display. (see p164). A short walk
Back in the city centre, away is the relaxing, child-
visit the Museu d’Art friendly Museu d’Historia
Contemporani (see pp62–3), de Catalunya (see pp68–9)
where you can be sure of with exhibits on daily life
Museu d’Art Contemporani façade something surprising. in earlier times.

ART FOR ART’S SAKE

• Romanesque marvels on
Montjuïc hill
• Contemporary works of art
• Collection of Old Masters

TWO ADULTS allow at least €50

Morning
The number of great
galleries you can cram into
a day depends on your
appetite and stamina but
here are four to give you a Barcelona’s Aquarium, a wonderful experience for children
12 INTRODUCING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA

Putting Barcelona and Catalonia on the Map

Catalonia lies in the northeastern corner of the Iberian
Peninsula and occupies six per cent of Spain. Barcelona,
its capital, lies almost exactly halfway along its Bay
coastline, which in turn stretches a quarter of the way
down Spain’s Mediterranean seaboard. Barcelona is of Biscay
the main bridging point to
the Catalan-speaking
A Coruña
Balearic Islands. 70

)
4 (E 3 Santander
Oviedo A8 (E70)

N6
A8 (E70)

A66
Santiago de A6
Compostela (E7

N630
AP
53 0)
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( E9
10 A5
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03

Toledo
E8

Tajo
A 66 -

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1
0)

Satellite image showing Catalonia

(E 9

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Badajoz
Gu a d i a n a Ciudad
LISBON Real
A6
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N340 A7
Ferry service
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Motorway (highway) Cádiz
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Minor road ta a a
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Main railway (railroad) Tangier Ceuta
Me

AVE high-speed rail link

lill
a

MOROCCO
 PUTTING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA ON THE MAP 13

The Canary Islands THE CANARY ISLANDS

This chain of seven
islands in the Atlantic
is 1,150 km (700
Santa Cruz
miles) southwest of de la Palma Puerto de
Puerto del
Rosario
Cádiz and 150 km (70 la Cruz
Santa Cruz
de Tenerife
miles) off Morocco. Las Palmas de
Gran Canaria
San
Sebastián
de la
Valverde Gomera Maspalomas
Biarritz
Bilbo
(Bilbao) Donostia
(San Sebastián)

A9 (E1 5 )
E5
(E804)

F R A N C E
N1 (
AP68

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(Pamplona) Perpignan
11
N1 N240

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(E15)
N230

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(E Eb
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N2 Zaragoza Lleida Ge
22 34
N1 AP2
AP2 (E90) (E90
) Barcelona

a
90)
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A I N 32 S
N2

See next page

34

n
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5)
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d

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N340

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5)
30

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7(
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1

2 2
Alacant
N3
(Alicante) NORWAY FINLAND
EUROPE AND
ura
N3

Seg NORTH AFRICA ESTONIA

0

SWEDEN
1

RUSSIAN
5) Murcia FED.
E1 LATVIA
(
A7

DENMARK LITHUANIA
40
N3
Oran

RUSSIAN
2
N33 IRELAND
FED.
BELARUS
UNITED
NETHERLANDS
KINGDOM POLAND
BELGIUM GERMANY
CZECH
LUXEMBOURG REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Catalonia’s FRANCE AUSTRIA

7 (E15)
Almería Frontiers SWITZERLAND HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
ROMANIA
Catalonia’s northern ITALY CROATIA
BOSNIA AND SERBIA
border with France HERZEGOVINA
KOSOVO
MONTENEGRO BULGARIA
runs along the crest of the Barcelona
PORTUGAL

Pyrenees and is punctuated by GREECE

SPAIN
Catalan-speaking Andorra. Its
western and southern borders
adjoin the Spanish regions
lla

of Aragón and Valencia. TUNISIA

Meli

MOROCCO
ALGERIA
LIBYA
14 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C ATA L O N I A

Barcelona City Centre

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Montjuïc KEY
There are wonderful Major sight
views from the top of
this large hill. Several Metro station
of Barcelona’s best Train station
museums are here, Bus stop
including the Archaeo-
logical Museum (see Cable car
p88) which displays Funicular
this Roman mosaic. Tramway stop

Police station

0 kilometres 1 Tourist information

Church
0 miles 0.5
 PUTTING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA ON THE MAP 15

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ANDORRA Figueres
N26
•
0 Besalú •
AP7 (E15)

Olot • Cadaqués
• •
C16 (E9)

Ripoll •
Empuries
• CATALONIA • Girona
Solsona • Cardona
N23

•
C1

5)
E1 Tossa de Mar
7(
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2 •
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BARCELONA
A2 AP
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• 0)
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0 Sitges
15)
P7 (E
A7 A Catalonia
• Tarragona
• Salou Much of Catalonia is
mountainous, with Bar-
KEY
celona sited on a narrow
Barcelona and environs coastal plain. Sant Pere
Motorways (highways) de Galligants (see p23) is
one of many Romanesque
Other major roads
churches (left).
 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A 17

A P O R T R A I T O F C ATA L O N I A

B
arcelona is one of the great Mediterranean cities. Few places
are so redolent with history, few so boldly modern. Animated
and inspired, it is a city that sparkles as much at night-time
as in the full light of day. It is famous for its main avenue, La
Rambla, for its bars, its museums and its enthusiasm for life.
Barcelona is the capital of the auto- POLITICS AND SOCIETY
nomous region of Catalonia, the Catalonia is governed by the
most northeasterly corner of Spain, Generalitat, housed in the Palau de
bordering France. The region is la Generalitat in the heart of the
divided into four provinces, Old Town and on the site of
named after their provincial the Roman forum. The
capitals: Barcelona, Girona, region’s parliament is loc-
Lleida and Tarragona. ated in the Parc de la Ciutadella.
The city of Barcelona lies The city of Barcelona has a
between two rivers, the Llobregat separate administration, and its
and the Besòs, and is backed by town hall, the Casa de la Ciutat,
the Collserola hills which rise to faces the Generalitat across the
a 512-m (1,680-ft) peak at the Plaça de Sant Jaume. Catalonia
Tibidabo amusement park. The has developed its own police
city grew up as the industrial force, which has now taken
sweatshop of Spain, though the La dama del over from Spain’s national
shunting yards and seaside ware- paraigua police in most of Catalonia.
houses have now gone. Around four Catalans are progressive but, as in
million people live in Barcelona and many other countries, people in
its suburbs – about half the popul- rural areas are more conservative than
ation of Catalonia. It is Spain’s second those in the cities. For 23 years after
city after its old rival, Madrid. Franco’s death, the Generalitat was

Strollers and shoppers on La Rambla enjoying Barcelona’s plentiful winter sunshine

Stunning floral mosaic pillars at the Palau de la Música Catalana in Barcelona

18 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Catalans are not burdened with self

doubt. The vigour with which they
have rebuilt parts of their capital since
the early 1980s shows flair and a firm
hand. Places of great sentimental
value, such as Barceloneta’s beach-
side restaurant shacks, were torn
down. Stunning new buildings
such as the Museu d’Art
Contemporani were put up in
the Old Town, and old
buildings such as the Café
Zurich, a famous rendez-
vous for writers, artists
and intellectuals on La
Rambla, were restored
St George’s Day in April – the day for giving books
without hesitation.
run by the conservative Convergència
i Unió under the presidency of Jordi LANGUAGE AND CULTURE
Pujol, while the city council was run A Romance language
by a socialist party. In 2003, however, similar to the old Langue Street performer
on La Rambla
Catalans elected a socialist Generalitat d’Oc, or Provençal, once
to power under Pascual Maragall, who used in France, Catalan is Catalonia’s
was replaced by José Montilla, also a official language, spoken by some
socialist, in 2006. eight million people. It has always
Catalans, who have no taste for been a living language and it contin-
bullfighting and whose sedate nation- ued to be spoken in the home even
al dance, the sardana, is unruffled by when it was banned by Franco. Cata-
passion, are a serious, hardworking lans do not think it rude to talk to
people. Some would rather be associ- each other in Catalan in front of
ated with northern Europeans than with
other Spaniards, whom they regard as
indolent. Part of their complaint against
Madrid has been that, as one of the rich-
est regions of Spain, they put more into
the national coffers than they take out.
Two emotions are said to guide
Catalans: seny, which means solid
common sense, and rauxa, a creative
chaos. A bourgeois, conservative ele-
ment of Barcelona society can be seen
at concerts and in pastry shops, but a
certain surreal air is often evident, on
La Rambla, for instance, where some-
times it seems that anything goes. The
two elements are mixed in each per-
son, and even the most staid may have
the occasional cop de rauxa, or moment
of chaotic ecstasy. Poster for a Pedro Almodóvar film
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 19

anywhere in the world.

New Catalan writing has
burgeoned since the 1970s
and there are many literary
prizes, but few Catalan
writers of any era have been
translated into English.

WORK AND LEISURE

Catalans stay true to their
traditions and their families.
Sunday lunch is a time to get
Beach at Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava together, although even
someone who speaks only Spanish. during the week, most people who
All public signs and official documents can do so return home for lunch. This
in Catalonia are in Spanish and Catalan. creates a rush hour four times a day,
If rauxa is responsible for the crea- with a lull in the early afternoon.
tive spirit as claimed, then Catalonia Shops close around 8:30pm, and
has been blessed with an abundance. between 6pm and 8:30pm the streets
Modernisme, led by Antoni Gaudí, are crowded. Dinner or entertain-
is the region’s gift to world ment starts around 9pm, but
architecture. Painters Joan there is increasing pressure for
Miró, Salvador Dalí and business hours to conform
Antoni Tàpies were born with the rest of Europe.
here, while Pablo Picasso Allegiance to the local foot-
spent his formative years in ball team, Barça, is a matter of
Barcelona. Designs by Javier national pride for its sup-
Mariscal, creator of the 1992 porters. Meals out, concerts and
Olympic motifs and Cobi, the the cinema are popular activities.
mascot, furniture by Oscar Montserrat Caballé The week begins quietly but, as
Tusquets and fashion by Toni Miró the weekend approaches, streets fill
help make Barcelona a city of great and visitors leaving La Rambla at
style. Bigas Luna, locally-born director midnight to go to bed may feel they
of Jamón Jamón, Pedro Almodóvar, are leaving a good party too soon.
whose film All About My Mother was
shot in Barcelona and Woody Allen’s
Vicky, Cristina, Barcelona have raised
the area’s profile in the cinema.
Over the last 150 years, some out-
standing musicians have emerged from
Catalonia. The composers Isaac Albéniz
(1860–1909), Enric Granados (1867–
1916) and Frederic Mompou (1893–
1987) brought music imbued with a
true Iberian idiom into the classical
mainstream. Pau Casals (1876– 1973)
was considered one of the greatest of
all cellists, and Montserrat Caballé and
Josep Carreras can fill opera houses Demonstration for Catalan independence
20 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Flowers of the Matollar

The Matollar is the distinctive
landscape of Spain’s eastern
Mediterranean coast. This scrubland
rich in wild flowers is the result of
centuries of woodland clearance,
Yellow bee
during which the native holm oak
orchid was felled for timber and to provide
land for grazing and cultivation. Many
colourful plants have adapted to the extremes of
climate here. Most flower in spring, when hillsides
are daubed with yellow broom and pink and white
cistuses, and the air is perfumed by aromatic
herbs such as rosemary, lavender
and thyme. Buzzing insects feed on
the abundance of nectar and pollen.
The century plant’s Spanish broom is a small bush with
flower stalk can reach yellow flowers on slender branches. The
10 m (32 ft). black seed pods split when dry,
scattering the seeds on the ground.

Aleppo Rosemary
pine
Jerusalem sage,
an attractive
shrub which is
often grown in
gardens, has tall
stems surrounded by
bunches of showy
yellow flowers. Its
leaves are greyish-
white and woolly.

Rose garlic has

round clusters
of violet or
pink flowers at
the end of a
single stalk. It
survives the
summer as the bulb
familiar to all cooks.

Common thyme
FOREIGN INVADERS is a low-growing
Several plants from the New World have aromatic herb
managed to colonize the bare ground of which is widely
the matollar. The prickly pear, thought to cultivated for use
have been brought back by Christopher in the kitchen.
Columbus, produces a
delicious fruit which can
Prickly pear be picked only with
in bloom thickly gloved hands. The mirror orchid, a
The rapidly growing small plant which
century plant, a native of Mexico grows on grassy sites,
which has tough, spiny leaves, sends is easily distinguished
up a tall flower shoot only when it is from other orchids by
10–15 years old, after which it dies. the brilliant metallic
blue patch inside
Flowering shoots of the century plant the lip, fringed
by brown hairs.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 21

Temp Rainfall CLIMATE CHART

WILDLIFE OF THE
(ºC) (mm) Most plants found
30 60 in the matollar MATOLLAR
25 50
come into bloom The animals which live in
in the warm, moist the matollar are most often
20 40 spring. The plants seen early in the morning,
15 30 protect themselves before the temperature is
from losing water high. Countless insects fly
10 20
during the dry sum- from flower to flower,
5 10 mer heat with thick providing a source of food
0 0
leaves or waxy for birds. Smaller mammals,
J F M A M J J A S O N D secretions, or by such as mice and voles, are
Temperature Rainfall
storing moisture active only at night when
in bulbs or tubers. it is cooler and there are
few predators around.
Holm oaks are very
common in eastern
Spain. The leaves are
tough and rubbery
to prevent water loss.

The strawberry
tree is an evergreen Ladder snakes feed on
shrub with glossy small mammals, birds and
serrated leaves. insects. The young are
Its inedible identified by a black pattern
strawberry-like fruit like the rungs of a ladder,
turns red when ripe. but adults are marked with
two simple stripes.

Tree heather Scorpions hide under

rocks or wood by day.
When disturbed,
the tail is curled
quickly over
the body in a
threatening
gesture. The
sting, lethal to
small animals, can cause
some irritation to humans.

The
Dartford
warbler , a
skulking bird
Grey-leaved cistus , which has a
growing on sunny dark plumage
sites, has crumpled and a cocked tail,
petals and bright sings melodiously
yellow anthers. during its mating display.
Males are more vividly
Narrow-leaved cistus coloured than females.
exudes a sticky aromatic
gum used in perfumes. The swallow-
tail butterfly
is one of the
most conspicuous
of the great many
insects living in
Star clover is a low-growing the matollar. Bees,
annual whose fruit develops ants and grasshoppers are
into a star-shaped seed head. also extremely common.
Its flowers are often pale pink.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Romanesque Art and Architecture

Catalonia has an exceptional collection of medieval
buildings constructed between the 11th and 13th
centuries in a distinctive local Romanesque style. There
are more than 2,000 examples, most of them churches.
Those in the Pyrenees, which have largely escaped both
attack and modernization, have survived particularly
well. Churches had lofty bell towers, barrel-vaulted
naves, rounded arches and imaginative sculpture, as
well as remarkable wall paintings. Some frescoes and
furniture have come to rest in the Museu Nacional
d’Art de Catalunya (see p88) in Barcelona, which
has the largest Romanesque collection in the world.

Sant Jaume de Frontanyà (see p114)

• Vielha is a former Augustinian canonry with
typical 11th-century features, such as
the Lombard bands below the roofs of
the three apses. The large octagonal
central lantern is, however, unusual.

• Andorra
la Vella
Puigcerdà •
Pont de Suert • Sort
•
• La Seu d’Urgell

Berga •

MONESTIR DE SANTA MARIA DE RIPOLL

The story
The saints of Moses

The story Christ with

of Solomon historical
figures
The Old
Testament The visions
of Daniel
David
and his Plinth with
musicians patterns
Sant Climent de Taüll , an
exemplary church in the Vall The portal of the church of the former Benedictine monastery
de Boí (see p113), was at Ripoll is known as “The Ripoll Bible” for its allegorical
consecrated in 1123. Its carvings. Although the church was founded in 879 and rebuilt
frescoes, including a Christ under Abbot Oliva in 1032, the portal was added only in the
in Majesty (see p88), are late 12th century. In this fine piece of Romanesque decoration
replicas, but the originals, Christ sits above the doorway amid the beasts symbolizing
which are now in the Apostles, and the monthly agricultural occupations are
Barcelona, are among the represented on the doorway pillars. There are seven biblical
best in Catalonia. friezes running the length of the wall. The top frieze (see
0 kilometres 30 p114) over the tympanum represents the old men of the
Apocalypse; the others are described in the captions above.
0 miles 15
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 23

Sant Pere de
Camprodon (see
p115), consecrated in
1169, is a monastery
church in mature
Romanesque style
with five square apses.
The slightly pointed BARCELONA

barrel vault over the

nave hintsat the
Gothic style to come.
AREA OF MAJOR
ROMANESQUE INTEREST
Sant Cristòfol de Beget
(see p115) is a beautiful
church in a picturesque
hamlet hidden deep in a
valley. It has a uniquely
preserved interior which
includes a Romanesque
baptismal font and this
famous 12th-century
crucifix – the Majestat.

Sant Pere de Rodes, situated at

600 m (1,968 ft) above sea level, was
a Benedictine monastery. In its
church’s nave are the pillars of a
Roman temple once on this site.
•
Figueres • Roses

Ripoll
•
Olot

Girona

Vic

Sant Pere de Besalú (see p115)

is the 12th-century church of an
• Sant Feliu earlier Benedictine monastery.
de Guíxols Stone lions guard this window
over the portal. Inside, the ambu-
latory has finely carved capitals.

Sant Pere de Galligants

(see p116), a former
Benedictine abbey,
captures the very essence
of Romanesque style. It
has an 11th-century
portal with a rose
window, three naves and
The Museu Episcopal de Vic (see p124) adjacent an octagonal bell tower.
to the cathedral has an exquisite collection of The cloister capitals are
Romanesque art. It includes this richly coloured carved with biblical scenes.
and moving portrayal of the Visitation which was It now houses Girona’s
originally an altar decoration in Lluçà monastery. archaeology museum.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Gaudí and Modernisme

Towards the end of the 19th All aspects of
century a new style of art and decoration in a
architecture, Modernisme, a Modernista building,
variant of Art Nouveau, was even interior design,
were planned by the
born in Barcelona. It became a architect. This door
means of expression for Catalan and its tiled sur-
Chimney, nationalism and counted Josep round are in
Casa Vicens Puig i Cadafalch, Lluís Domènech Gaudí’s 1906
i Montaner and, above all, Antoni Casa Batlló
Gaudí i Cornet (see p78) among its major (see p78).
exponents. Barcelona’s Eixample district (see
pp70–83) is full of the highly original build-
ings that they created for their wealthy clients.

A dramatic cupola
covers the central salon,
which rises through three
floors. It is pierced by
small round holes,
inspired by Islamic
architecture, giving
the illusion of stars.

Upper galleriesare
richly decorated
with carved wood
and cofferwork.

The spiral carriage ramp is an early sign of

Gaudí’s predilection for curved lines. He would
later exploit this to the full in the wavy façade of
his masterpiece, the Casa Milà (see p79).

THE EVOLUTION OF MODERNISME

1859 Civil engineer 1900 Josep Puig i 1903 Lluís Domènech i
Ildefons Cerdà i Cadafalch builds Casa Montaner builds Hospital
Sunyer submits Amatller (see p78) de la Santa Creu i de
proposals for Sant Pau (see p79)
expansion of 1878 Gaudí graduates
Barcelona as an architect Hospital detail

1850 1865 1880 1895 1910 1925

1883 Gaudí takes

over design of 1888 Barcelona 1910 Casa Milà 1926 Gaudí
Neo-Gothic Universal completed dies
Sagrada Família Exhibition gives
(see pp80–1) impetus to 1905 Domènech i Montaner builds Casa
Modernisme Lleó Morera (see p78). Puig i Cadafalch
Detail of Sagrada Família builds Casa Terrades (see p79)
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 25

Bizarrely decorated chimneys

became one of the trademarks GAUDI’S MATERIALS
of Gaudí’s later work. They Gaudí designed, or collaborated on designs,
reach a fantastic for almost every known media. He com-
extreme on the bined bare, undecorated materials – wood,
gleaming, hump- rough-hewn stone, rubble and brickwork –
backed roof of the with meticulous craftwork in wrought iron
Casa Batlló. and stained glass. Mosaics of ceramic tiles
were used to cover his fluid, uneven forms.

Elaborate
wrought iron
lamps light the
grand hall.

Ceramic tiles decorate

the chimneys.

Stained-glass window Mosaic of ceramic tiles,

in the Sagrada Família Park Güell (see p96)

Detail of iron gate, Casa Tiles on El Capricho in

Vicens (see pp26-7) Comillas, Cantabria

Parabolic arches,
used extensively by
Gaudí, beginning in
the Palau Güell, show
his interest in Gothic
architecture. These
arches form a corridor
in his 1890 Col.legi
de les Teresianes, a
convent school in the
west of Barcelona.

Escutcheon alludes to
the Catalan coat of arms.

PALAU GÜELL
Gaudí’s first major building in the centre
of the city, on La Rambla (see p60),
established his international reputation
for outstanding, original architecture.
Built in 1889 for his life-long patron,
the industrialist Eusebi Güell, the
mansion stands on a small plot of
land in a narrow street, making the Organic forms inspired the wrought iron around the
façade difficult to see. Inside, Gaudí gates to the palace. Gaudí’s later work teems with wildlife,
creates a sense of space by using such as this dragon, covered with brightly coloured tiles,
carved screens, recesses and galleries. which guards the steps in the Park Güell.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

La Ruta del Modernisme

The examples of Modernista architecture in
Barcelona, mapped here, lie along a route
designed by the city’s tourist office. A
Guidebook, available from Catalunya’s tourist
office (see p175), the Hospital de Sant Pau,
the Güell Pavillions on Avinguda Pedralbes
(see p79) and some bookshops, provides up
to 50 per cent discount on admission charges
and gives you the freedom to plan your own
itinerary. The Casa Batlló, Palau Güell and
Palau de la Música Catalana all have guided
tours, and entry is discounted at the selected

24
museums. Many of the other premises,
however, are privately owned houses,
shops, cafés and hotels.
Casa Vicens
This bright, angular, turreted building
by Antoni Gaudí, with ceramic mosaics
24
and patterned brickwork, shows
Moorish influence. The iron gate and
fencing are hallmarks of his work ( Diagonal

Palau Baró de Quadras

Built in 1906, this handsome house is by
Josep Puig i Cadafalch. The intricate,

24
sculptured frieze above the first-floor
windows has close affinities to Spanish
early Renaissance Plateresque style @

Casa Lleó Morera

The first-floor dining room
of this house is one of
Barcelona’s most stunning
interiors. The stained-glass
windows are by Lluís Rigalt
and the eight ceramic
mosaic wall panels, depict-
ing idyllic country scenes, PLAÇA DE
are by Gaspar Homar o CATALUNYA 41

Antiga Casa Figueres

The mosaic, stained-
glass and wrought iron
decoration of this, the
most famous of the city’s
Modernista stores, was
carried out in 1902 by
Antoni Ros i Güell. It is
today the elegant
Pastisseria Escribà 7
LA

KEY
MB
RA

Walking route
LA

Bus route

Metro route 0 metres 500

Metro station
0 yards 500
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 27

24, 9
2 TIPS FOR WALKERS
Starting point: Palau Güell, but
plan your own order according to
time available. Look out for the

24,
24
route signs in the pavement.

92
Length: About 4 km (2.5 miles)
for the walking section 1 to @
excluding deviations to sights well
to the side of the main route.
Time: It would take several days
to explore all the sights. Discount
vouchers are valid for one year.

92

92

A
V
IN
G
U
D
A Palau Macaya
D
IA
G Finished in 1901, this elegant
O
N
A
Sagrada Família mansion with a grand courtyard
L
C
was designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch.
D’ARAG
O Several artists were employed in its
decoration. It is now an exhibition venue $
JOAN

WHERE TO FIND THE SIGHTS

DE SANT

1 Palau Güell pp24–5 h Casa Juncosa

GRAN VIA 2 Central street lamps, Plaça Reial p61 j Casa Josep i Ramon Queraltó
3 Hotel España p134 k Bench street lamps by Pere Falqués
4 Hotel Peninsular p134 l Casa Josefa Villaneuva
PASSEIG

5 Café de l’Òpera z Casa Jaume Forn

6 Casa Doctor Genové x Conservatori Municipal de Música
7 Antiga Casa Figueres c Casa Llopis Bofill
8 Mercat de la Boqueria p155 v Casa Thomas p73
9 Reial Acadèmia de Ciències i Arts b Palau Montaner p73
41 0 Farmàcia Nadal n Casa Milà p79
q Palau Sabassona (Ateneu m Can Serra
Barcelonès) , Casa Sayrach / Casa Pérez Samanillo
w Former Catalana de Gas HQ . Casa Bonaventura Ferrer
e Casa Martí, Els Quatre Gats p52 / Casa Fuster
41 r Palau de la Música Catalana p63 ! Casa Comalat
t Casa Pascual i Pons @ Palau Baró de Quadras p73
y Casa Calvet £ Casa Terrades p79
u Forns Sarret i de la Concepció $ Palau Macaya
i Cases Rocamora % Casa Planells
o Casa Lleó Morera p78 ^ Temple de la Sagrada Família
p Casa Amatller p78 pp80–81
a Casa Batlló p76–7 & Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
s Editorial Montaner i Simón Sant Pau p79
(Fundació Antoni Tàpies) p78 * Parc Güell/Casa-Museu Gaudí p96
d Casa Dolors Calm ( Casa Vicens p78
f Casa Fargas ) Museu de Zoologia p66
g Farmàcia Bolós Q Parlament de Catalunya
28 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Catalan Painting
Catalonia has a fine, if uneven, painterly tradition. It of their works can be seen at
began where Spanish medieval painting was born – the Museu Nacional d’Art de
in the Pyrenees, where Romanesque churches were Catalunya alongside Catalo-
brightened by bold frescoes full of imagination (see nia’s only two distinguished
artists of the period – Francesc
pp22-3). The subsequent Gothic period, which Pla and Antoni Viladomat.
represented Catalonia at the height of its powers, was
followed by a long period of lesser artistic achievement
until the wealth of the 19th century revived the creative
spirit. This fostered some of Europe’s great 20th-century
painters, all of whom, as Catalans, felt a close affinity to
the spirit of Catalonia’s incomparable Romanesque art.

1425), who painted Tarragona

cathedral’s altarpiece, and Procession outside Santa Maria del
Lluís Dalmau (d.1463), who Mar (c.1898) by Ramon Casas
visited Bruges and studied
under Jan van Eyck. A feature
of Catalan Gothic is esgrafiat, THE 19TH CENTURY
a process of gilding haloes,
garments and backgrounds, Barcelona’s art school
which was favoured by one opened above La Llotja (see
of the greatest Catalan Gothic p63) in 1849 and new patrons
artists, Jaume Huguet (1415– of the arts appeared with
92). His St George and the wealth generated by the indus-
Princess seems to capture trial revolution. Industry
the full majesty of a cultured had, however, already begun
and prosperous nation. to train its own artists. In 1783
a school was founded in Olot
(see p115) to train designers
RENAISSANCE TO for local textile firms. An Olot
St George and the Princess (late NEO-CLASSICAL School of artists developed;
15th century) by Jaume Huguet its main figures were Josep
Artistically, Catalonia Berga i Boix (1837–1914)
languished from the 16th to and Joaquim Vayreda i Vila
GOTHIC the 18th century, a period (1843–94), who also founded
dominated by great masters the Art Cristià (Christian Art)
One of the first-named artists from elsewhere in Spain: El workshops which today still
in Catalonia was Ferrer Bassa Greco in Toledo, Murillo and produce church statuary.
(1285–1348), court painter to Zurbarán in Seville, Ribera in The greens and browns
Jaume II. Bassa’s exquisite Valencia, and Velázquez and of the Olot landscape artists
decoration in the chapel of later Goya in Madrid. A few were countered by the pale
the Monastery of Pedralbes
(see p95) constitutes the first-
known example of oil-
painted murals, a style
undoubtedly influenced by
contemporary Italian painting.
In sculpture, Catalan Gothic
begins with the work of
Mestre Bartomeu (1250–1300),
whose extraordinary, Oriental-
looking Calvary is in the fine
Gothic collection of Girona’s
Museu d’Art (see p117).
There are also Gothic col-
lections in Vic and Solsona
(see p124) and particularly
Barcelona, where the Museu
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
(see p88) has the most impres-
sive. Important works include
those by Lluís Borrassà (1365– The Gardens at Aranjuez (1907) by Santiago Rusiñol
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 29

Joan Miró (1893–1983) also at-

tended the art school. Thrown
out for poor draughtsman-
ship, he went on to become
one of the 20th-century’s most
original talents, remarkable for
his playful abstracts.
A sense of play was also
never far from Salvador Dalí
(see p117), whom Miró en-
couraged in the way that he
himself had been encouraged
by Picasso. Dalí joined them
in Paris, where Miró intro-
duced him to the Surrealists.
Unlike his mentors, Dalí re-
mained in Catalonia after the
Civil War, and his house in
Port Lligat (see p120) is in
Waiting for Soup (1899) by Isidre Nonell many ways his finest creation.
Also to remain was Josep-
blues and pinks of the Sitges canvases such as The Charge Maria Sert (1876–1945). He
Luminists – Arcadi Mas i Font- and Vile Garroting. Rusiñol was a more traditional painter,
devila (1852–1943) and Joan and Casas were founding best remembered for vast
Roig i Soler (1852–1909). They members of Els Quatre Gats murals in Barcelona’s Casa de
were influenced by Marià café, modelled on Le Chat la Ciutat (see p57), and in
Fortuny, who was born in Noir in Paris. Rockefeller Center and the
Reus in 1838 dining room of the Waldorf
and had lived Astoria in New York. His
in Rome and startling work in Vic cathedral
Paris. He was (see p124) was burnt out in
commissioned the Civil War, but he was able
by Barcelona’s to repaint it before he died.
city council to Today, Catalonia’s best-
paint a vast known living painter is Antoni
canvas of the Tàpies. A modest, uncompro-
Spanish victory mising man, he is, like many
at Tetuán, before him, deeply rooted in
Spanish Mo- his own culture. Though an
rocco, in which abstract painter, he often uses
500 Catalan the colours of the Catalan flag
volunteers had The Cathedral of the Poor (1897) by Joaquim Mir and admits to an influence of
taken part. It Romanesque art. Like Picasso
is now in the Museu d’Art and Miró, he has his own
Modern. THE 20TH CENTURY museum (see p78). Other
In 1892, 18 years after the living Catalan artists’ work can
first Impressionist exhibition Although Pablo Ruiz Picasso be seen at Barcelona’s Museu
in Paris, Mas i Fontdevila (1881–1973) lived in Barce- d’Art Contemporani (see p62).
staged an exhibition in Sitges lona for only eight years (see
bringing together the Olot p63), they were extremely
School and the Luminists. It formative. His early work was
was seen as the first Modern- strongly influenced by the city
ista event and featured two and its surroundings, as can
other artists: Santiago Rusiñol be seen in the Museu Picasso
(1861–1931) and Ramon Casas (see p64), as well as by the
(1866–1932), the towering leading Catalan artists – land-
figures of Modernista paint- scape painter Isidre Nonell
ing. Rusiñol, the son of a (1873–1911), Joaquim Mir
textile magnate, bought a (1873–1940), and Rusiñol and
house in Sitges, Cau Ferrat Casas. He shared their view
(see p128), which became a that Paris was essential to an
Modernista haunt. Casas, the artistic life and soon joined its
first man in Barcelona to own Catalan fraternity. Despite a
a car, drew all the famous self-imposed exile during the
people of the day and also Franco years, he kept in touch Lithograph (1948) in Catalan flag
painted large, powerful with Catalonia all his life. colours by Antoni Tàpies
30 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

The Flavours of Catalonia

Food is central to the Catalan soul, and it’s no accident that
Barcelona’s most famous literary creation, detective Pepe
Carvalho, is a discerning gourmet. Reflecting Barcelona’s
status as the undisputed style capital of the Mediterranean,
the culinary scene in Catalonia is now one of the most
exciting in Europe, with innovative chefs like Ferran Adrià,
of the legendary El Bullí restaurant (see p151), taking
Catalonia’s venerable gastronomic traditions and trans-
forming them with spectacular flair. But the old ways Ceps (bolets)
survive in small, family-run restaurants, authentic, sawdust-
strewn tapas bars, and particularly in the superb local markets.
most experimental, is essen- MEAT AND GAME
tially simple, and relies on
the superb quality and range Catalan cured meats are
of the local produce. It is justly famous throughout
also very much a seasonal Spain, particularly the
cuisine, and each time of the pungent cured sausage fuet.
year has its specialities, from Pork finds its way onto
the onion-like calçots which almost every menu, with
appear in the spring, and the peus de porc (pigs’ trotters)
luscious plethora of summer an old-fashioned favourite.
fruit, to the wild mushrooms, Its mountain cousin, wild
roasted meats and hearty, boar (porc sanglar) is
warming stews of the popular in late autumn,
autumn and winter. along with game, especially
Xoriço picant Fuet Llonganissa

Barcelona café serving traditional

pastries and desserts

Visit any one of Barcelona’s

excellent markets to see the
spectacular variety of fresh
produce that is available in
Catalonia: stalls are heaped
high with glistening fish from Xoriço
the Mediterranean; superb-
quality meat and game from
the mountains; and a quite
dazzling array of fruit and Xoriço curat
Pernil salat
vegetables from the plains.
Catalan cuisine, even at its Selection of Catalan cured meats, known as embutits

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES

Some things are hallowed in Catalan
cuisine, and none more so than the
quartet of classic sauces which
underpin almost everything. King of
them all is sofregit (mentioned in
the first Catalan cookbook of 1324),
a reduction of caramelized onions,
fresh tomatoes and herbs. Samfaina is
Pa amb tomaquet made like sofregit but with the addition
of roast aubergines (eggplant), courgettes
(zucchini) and peppers. Picada is spicier, and ingredients
vary but normally include breadcrumbs, garlic, almonds,
saffron and pine nuts. All i oli is a garlicky, mayonnaise-like
(but eggless) sauce, usually served with grilled meat and Escalivada is a salad of mari-
vegetables. But the classic Catalan dish is pa amb tomà- nated onions, peppers and
quet – crusty bread rubbed with fresh tomatoes and garlic, aubergines (eggplant) that
then drizzled with olive oil. Simple, but utterly delicious. have been roasted until sweet.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 31

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

Spring is heralded by calçots,

a cross between leeks and
onions, tiny broad (fava)
beans and delicate asparagus
spears. In summer, market
stalls blaze with the colours
of cherries, strawberries, figs,
peaches and melons, gleaming
aubergines (eggplants), cour-
gettes (zucchini), tomatoes
and artichokes. In autumn,
Catalans head for the hills to
seek out wild mushrooms
(bolets), and classic Catalan
bean dishes appear on
menus as winter approaches.

Summer fruits and vegetables lovingly displayed at La Boquería market

BEST FOOD SHOPPING
partridge (perdiu). Rabbit suquet de peix. But humble La Boquería (see p155).
(conill) and snails (cargols), dried, salted cod (bacallà),
come into their own in hearty still reigns supreme in Cata- Bombones Blasi Carrer Carde-
winter dishes. Meat and fish lan cuisine, and is at its most nal Casanyes 16 (93 318 3523).
Exquisite chocolates.
are sometimes combined in delicious when baked with
dishes known as mar i mun- tomatoes, garlic and wine Olis Oliva Mercat de Santa
tanya (sea and mountain). (a la llauna). Caterina (93 268 1472). A huge
range of olive oils, plus salt.
FISH
La Pineda Carrer del Pi (93
302 43 93). Delightful old
Barcelona excels at seafood. grocer’s, specializing in hams.
Tapas bars commonly serve
mouthwatering sardines, and Tot Formatge, Passeig del
rosy prawns grilled or tossed Born 13, (93 319 5375).
in garlic. Restaurants and Superb cheeses from Catalonia,
Spain and elsewhere.
markets offer a dizzying array
of fresh fish, including monk- Botifarrería de Santa María,
fish, bass, hake, sole, squid, Carrer Santa María 4 (93 319
octopus, and every possible 9123). Cured meats of all kinds.
variety of shellfish. Fish is
Origens 99.9% Carrer Vidreria
often served simply grilled 6–8 (93 310 7581). Catalan
(a la brasa), or perhaps with products, organic where
a simple sauce. It’s especially possible, including cheeses,
good cooked paella-style in Locally caught sardines being hams, oils and conserves.
fideuà, or in a stew such as grilled over charcoal

Conill amb cargols is a Suquet de peix, a rich stew Crema Catalana, the Catalan
hearty country stew of rabbit of firm-fleshed fish (often version of crème brûlée, is a
and snails with tomatoes, hake), with tomatoes, garlic rich, eggy custard with a
spices and a splash of wine. and toasted almonds. caramelized sugar topping.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Cava Country
Cava is one of Catalonia’s most
appreciated exports. This relatively
inexpensive sparkling wine is made
in the same way as French
champagne, undergoing a second
Cordoníu’s world-
fermentation in the bottle in which it
famous cava label is sold. It was made commercially
from the mid-19th century and, in
1872, full-scale production was begun by Josep Raventós,
head of Codorníu. This famous winery is still run by his
descendants in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, cava capital of the
Penedès wine-producing region. Today cava continues to
Codorníu, the first wine to be
be made using local grape varieties – Macabeo, Xarel.lo made using the méthode
and Parellada – and some pleasant pink cava is also champenoise, brought cava
produced. The literal meaning of cava is simply “cellar”. international renown as one
of the great sparkling wines.

P E N
N230
N2 3
40 C1
NII A2
•

Lleida
NIIa Les Borges
Blanques C O
A2 AP2 •

(E90)

e
gr
Se

Freixenet was established by the Sala family in

1914 and is now one of the leading cava brands. C12
Their estate is in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, heart of
cava country, and Freixenet’s distinctive black
Ebro

T A R R A G O N A
bottle is recognized throughout the world.

Raïmat, developed by the Raventós family using the 20

N4
Chardonnay grape, is considered by many to be the
ultimate cava. Wrested from wasteland, the 3,000-
hectare (7,410-acre) Raïmat estate, 14 km
5)
(9 miles) west of Lleida, has its own railway station E1
P7(
and workers’ village and has been declared a “model A 7A
agricultural estate” by the Spanish government.

THE OTHER WINES OF CATALONIA

Wine (vi) in Catalonia is negre (red), rosat (pink) or blanc (white). Garnatxa is a
dessert wine named after the grape it comes from; ranci is a matured white wine.
A tradition, now only practised at local festes or old-style bars, is to
pour wine into the mouth from a porró (long-spouted wine jug).
There are nine official DO (Denominació de Origen) regions
which include: Empordà-Costa Brava: light wines from the north-
east. They include vi de l’any, drunk in the year it is produced. Cava
is made in Peralada. Alella: a tiny region, just north of Barcelona, with
good light whites. Penedès: great reds as well as some whites, with
names such as Torres and Codorníu. Visit the wine museum in Vilafranca
del Penedès (see p125). Conca de Barberà: small quantities of both reds
and whites. Costers del Segre: includes the delicious reds from the Raïmat
estate. Priorat: characterful reds and good whites (Falset) from a pretty
A porró for region of small villages west of Tarragona. Tarragona and Terra Alta:
drinking wine traditionally hefty wines, but getting lighter.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 33

The Art Nouveau

winery in Sant Sadurní
d’Anoia is Codorníu’s
Modernista showpiece,
SPAIN
designed by Josep Puig i
Cadafalch in 1906. There •

are 26 km (16 miles) of Madrid

cellars on five floors and
visitors are taken round
on a small train.

Gold medals were KEY

awarded to Codorníu Main cava districts
for its cava as early as
1888. By 1897 it was
being served at
0 kilometres 20
state functions
instead of
champagne. 0 miles 20
C16 (E9)

Besó
Manresa
s
•

E D È S E1
5)
7(
AP
A7 2
NII A2 C3
C1

•
6(

Tàrrega
E9

• Terrassa
)

Igualada •
•

Sabadell
S T E R S D E L •
7
Masquefa AP )
S E G R E A7 (E15
BARCELONA
A2 90)

•
(E

•
Sant Sadurní
AP2

A2 AP2 (E d’Anoia
Llo

BEST PRODUCERS
bre
90

ga

Montblanc
)

• •
Codorníu
t

Vilafranca del Penedès

N2

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 1

40

5)
Valls E1 •

7( C3
2
Castelldefels Freixenet
•
AP
A7
•
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 2
El Vendrell •
Vilanova Gramona
i la Geltrú Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 3
Reus Tarragona
•
• Mascaró
Vilafranca del Penedès 4
CAVA TIPS
Raïmat
What to buy
Costers del Segre 5
As with champagne, the drier the
wine, the higher the price. The Raventós Rosell
driest cavas are brut de brut and Masquefa 6
brut nature. Brut and sec are
slightly less dry. Sweet semiseco
and dulce are best with desserts. Although
inexpensive compared with the French
equivalent, costs do vary, with small, spe-
cialist producers commanding high prices.

Visiting a winery
The main cava producers are
open to the public during
office hours (but many close in
August). Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
is 45 minutes by train from Barcelona’s Sants
station and the most impressive cellars to
visit here are Freixenet’s and Codorníu’s.
Vilafranca del Penedès tourist office (see A rewarding tour can be had by visiting the
p125) has details of all cava winery visits. Freixenet cellars. The company sells more bottles
of cava each year than the French sell champagne.
34 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

CATALONIA THROUGH THE YEAR

E ach barri (district) in Barcelona
and every town and village in
Catalonia has a saint’s day to
be celebrated in an annual festa
major. The sardana (see
have parades of giants (gegants),
bigheads (capgrosses) and dwarfs
(nans) – papier-mâché caricatures
of people once linked with local
trade guilds. Demons and
p129) is danced and, on dragons provide drama. Cata-
the Costa Brava, havaneres lans love pyrotechnics, and
(habaneras) are sung. Food is the fires at the midsummer
central to any event, and open-air Revetlla de Sant Joan are a lavish
feasts and special pastries and incendiary event. Many cel-
cakes feature strongly. Many Men give women a red ebrations often start on the
towns, including Barcelona, rose on Sant Jordi’s Day eve of the feast day proper.

celebrate their birthday. (Dilluns de Pasqua) god-

Terrassa Jazz Festival (whole parents buy their godchildren
of Mar). Concerts by musicians mona (egg cake), and bakers
from all over the world. compete to make the most
Setmana Santa (Holy Week) elaborate confections.
is the week before Easter and Sant Jordi (23 Apr). Feast of
is filled with events. St George, patron saint of
Catalonia, and a day devoted
APRIL to the memory of Cervantes
(see p43), who died on this
Diumenge de Rams (Palm day in 1616. Men and boys
Sunday). Palm leaves are bles- give single red roses to their
sed in church, notably at the mothers, wives and girlfriends,
Sagrada Família in Barcelona. who give them books in re-
Processions of Roman soldiers turn. The festival is also known
Book stalls set up in Barcelona on turn out in Girona, and via as el dia del llibre (book day).
Sant Jordi’s Day, el dia del llibre crucis (passion plays) are put
on in several places, notably MAY
the spa town of Sant Hilari
SPRING Sacalm, Girona province. Fira de Sant Ponç (11 May).
Dijous Sant (Maundy Thurs- Ancient celebration around the
Almond blossom gives way to day), Verges, Girona province. Carrer de l’Hospital in Barce-
cherry and apple as the earth Men dressed as skeletons per- lona, once the site of the city
warms and the melting snows form a death dance (dansa de hospital. Aromatic and medi-
swell the rivers. The fishing la mort) thought to date back cinal herbs and honey are sold.
season for trout and other to times of plague in the 1300s. Corpus Christi (May/Jun).
freshwater fish starts in late Pasqua (Easter). On Good Flowers are laid in the streets
March. At Easter, families get Friday (Divendres Sant) cruci- of Sitges, and in Berga, Barce-
together, often going out of fixes are carried through the lona province, a monster
town to visit relatives, or streets following the Stations of dragon (la Patum) dances
to picnic and search for wild the Cross. On Easter Monday through the town’s streets.
asparagus. May is the best
month in which to see wild
flowers, which are particularly
spectacular in the Pyrenees.

MARCH

Sant Medir (3 Mar). In Bar-

celona processions distribute
sweets in the district of Gràcia,
and in Sants a week later.
Sant Josep (19 Mar). Many
Catalans are called Josep
(often shortened to Pep). This
is a holiday in Spain, although
not in Catalonia. People
celebrate their “name day” –
the day of the saint they are
named after – more than they The feast of Corpus Christi, when carpets of flowers cover the streets
 C A T A L O N I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 35

Sunshine Chart
AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Barcelona is a sunny
Hours city, enjoying clear blue
10 skies for a large part of
the year and often up
8 to ten hours’ sunshine
a day in summer. In
6
winter, even though it
4 can be cold in the
shade, the sun is high
2 enough to give it warm-
ing power and it can be
0 pleasant to sit outdoors
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec on a sheltered, sunny
terrace or patio.

SUMMER

The majority of Barcelona’s

inhabitants live in apartments,
so they like to head out of
town at weekends, either to
the coast or the mountains.
Motorways (highways) on
Friday afternoons and Sunday
evenings are best avoided.
School holidays are long,
starting at the end of June
when the sea is warm enough
for swimming. Crowds throng
the marinas, the aroma of Holidaymakers at Platja d’Aro, a popular Costa Brava resort
barbecued sardines fills the
air, and a plethora of summer Concert season (Jun/Jul). Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul). A
entertainment provides limit- Classical music concerts, held maritime festival that takes
less options. Many businesses at different parks in Barcelona, place around Barcelona’s port.
in Barcelona close in August. are organized by the Institut As well as processions, there
Municipal de Parcs i Jardins. are bands playing havaneres.
JUNE Santa Cristina (24 Jul). The
JULY biggest festival of Lloret de
Grec Festival de Barcelona Mar, Costa Brava, when a
(Jun–Jul). National and Cantada d’havaneres (first statue of the Virgin is brought
international performances Sun in Jul). Drinking cremat ashore by a decorated flotilla.
throughout Barcelona; the (coffee and rum), musicians
main venues are the Teatre and singers belt out havaneres AUGUST
Grec, Mercat de les Flors and in towns along the coast, most
Poble Espanyol. famously at Calella de Pala- Festa major de Gràcia (one
Revetlla de Sant Joan (23, 24 frugell on the Costa Brava. week beginning around 15
Jun). St John’s (Midsummer’s) Aug). Each district of
Eve is celebrated with fire- Barcelona hosts its own festa
works, especially on Montjuïc in which streets try to outdo
in Barcelona. Bonfires are lit each other in the inventive-
throughout Catalonia and ness of their decorations. The
lighted torches are brought festa in the old district of Grà-
down from the top of Mont cia is the biggest and most
Canigó, just over the border spectacular and incorporates
in France. Cava – a sparkling concerts, balls, music, compe-
white wine (see pp32 –3) – is titions and street games.
drunk with a special coca Festa major de Sants (around
(cake) sprinkled with pine 24 Aug). The big annual festa
nuts and crystallized fruit. takes place in the Sants
Castellers (24 Jun). In Valls, district of Barcelona.
Tarragona, a province famous Festa major de Vilafranca del
for its casteller festivals, teams Penedès (mid-Aug). This
of men stand on each other’s town’s annual festival is one
shoulders hoping to take the of the best places to see
prize for building the highest casteller (human tower)
human tower (see p125). A team of castellers in action competitions (see p125).
36 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Rainfall Chart
AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL (BARCELONA) Barcelona experiences
MM Inches modest rainfall year
150 6 round – just sufficient
to maintain the city’s
120 4.5 green spaces. However,
rain tends to fall in
90
3
sudden, but short-lived,
60
torrential downpours
and heavy thunder
1.5
30 storms are a feature of
the summer months.
0 0 Grey, drizzly weather
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec lasting for days on
end is very rare.

AUTUMN

The grape harvest (verema) is

a highlight of the autumn, just
before the vines turn red and
gold. It is the season for
seeking out mushrooms
which swell the market stalls.
From October hunters set off
to bag red-legged partridge,
migrating ducks and wild
boar. Hardier people can be
seen swimming in the sea
right up until November.

SEPTEMBER
Cattle descending from the Pyrenees at the end of the summer
Diada de Catalunya (11 Sep).
Catalonia’s national day marks correfoc – a parade of fire- PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Barcelona’s fall to Felipe V in breathing dragons, giants and
1714 (see p45) when the region monsters; and the piro musical Any Nou (New Year’s
lost its autonomy. Political – fireworks set to music. Day) 1 Jan
demonstrations convey strong Sant Miquel (29 Sep). Cele- Reis Mags (Epiphany)
separatist sentiment. Sardana brations for Barceloneta’s 6 Jan
(see p129) bands and people patron saint recall Napoleon’s Divendres Sant (Good
singing Els segadors (see p44) occupation of Spain (see p45). Friday) Mar/Apr
can be heard and Catalan Bum Bum, a Napoleonic Dilluns de Pasqua (Easter
flags are everywhere. general, parades through the Monday) Mar/Apr
La Mercè (24 Sep). This annual streets to salvoes of gunfire. Festa del Treball (Labour
festival in Barcelona honours There is dancing on the beach. Day) 1 May
Nostra Senyora de la Mercè Sant Joan (Saint John’s
(Our Lady of Mercy) in a week OCTOBER Day) 24 Jun
of concerts, masses and Assumpció (Assumption
dances. Look out for the Festes de Sarrià i de Les Corts Day) 15 Aug
(first Sun in Oct). Each of Diada de Catalunya
these Barcelona districts has a (National Day) 11 Sep
festival for its patron saint.
La Mercè 24 Sep
Día de la Hispanitat (12 Oct)
Dia de la Hispanitat (Day
National holiday to mark the
discovery of America in 1492 of the Spanish-speaking
(see p44), but most Catalans do nations) 12 Oct
not celebrate this anniversary. Tots Sants (All Saints’
Day) 1 Nov
NOVEMBER Dia de la Constitució
(Constitution Day) 6 Dec
Tots Sants (All Saints’ Day) Immaculada Concepció
(1 Nov). Roast chestnuts and (Immaculate Conception)
sweet potatoes are eaten and 8 Dec
the next day – Dia dels difunts Nadal (Christmas) 25 Dec
Harvesting grapes in autumn with (All Souls’ Day) – people visit Sant Esteve 26 Dec
high hopes for a successful crop the graves of their relatives.
 C A T A L O N I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 37

Temperature Chart
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE (BARCELONA) This chart shows the
C° F° average minimum
30 86 and maximum daily
temperatures record-
25 77
ed in Barcelona. The
20 68 sunshine in winter
can be deceptive, as
15 59
daytime temperatures
10 50 can occasionally dip
to near freezing.
5 41
Summer days are
0 32 consistently hot. Hats
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec and a high-factor sun
screen are essential.

WINTER

Ski resorts in the Pyrenees are

a popular destination at
weekends. Though days can
be sunny and lunches still
taken alfresco, the weather is
unpredictable and the nights
can be chilly. Christmas is a
particularly delightful time to
be in Barcelona, when the
city vibrates with the spirit of
celebration and sharing. Crafts A ski resort in the Pyrenees, a popular destination for weekenders
and decorations are on sale in
the Feria de Santa Llúcia in each chime of the midnight dancing and many people
front of the Cathedral. bell. To manage the feat dress up as giants.
brings good luck all year. Els Tres Tombs (17 Jan).
DECEMBER Horsemen in top hats and
JANUARY tails ride three times through
Nadal and Sant Esteve (25 & the city to honour St Anthony,
26 Dec). Christmas is a time Reis Mags (6 Jan). On the patron saint of animals.
for people to come together. eve of the Epiphany the three Pelegrí de Tossa (20 & 21
Traditional Christmas lunch kings arrive in various guises Jan), Tossa de Mar. A 40-km
consists of an escudella (meat throughout Catalonia giving (25-mile) pilgrimage marking
stew) followed by turkey sweets to children. The main the end of the plague; this
stuffed with apples, apricots, cavalcade in Barcelona is town’s biggest annual event.
prunes, pine nuts and raisins. down by the port.
Revellón (31 Dec). All over Santa Eulàlia (12 Jan). The FEBRUARY
Spain on New Year’s Eve it feast of the ancient patron
has become a custom for saint of Barcelona is celebrat- Carnestoltes (Carnival) (Feb/
people to eat a grape between ed in the old town. There is Mar). King Carnival presides
over the pre-Lent celebrations,
children wear fancy dress
and every barri (district) in
Barcelona puts on a party.
Sausage omelettes are eaten
on Shrove Tuesday (Dijous
gras), and on Ash Wednesday
(Dimecres de cendra) a sar-
dine is ceremoniously buried
(Enterrament de la sardina).
There are big celebrations in
Platja d’Aro on the Costa
Brava and Vilanova on the
Costa Daurada. Sitges is the
place to go to see the full trans-
vestite indulgence of the feast.
De Cajón! Flamenco Festival
(early Feb–Apr). Concerts
and classes are held in venues
The winter festival of Els Tres Tombs in Vilanova i la Geltrú across Barcelona.
Procession of gegants (giants) during the September festival of La Mercé in Barcelona
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C A T A L O N I A 41

THE HISTORY OF CATALONIA

T
he Catalans have always been great seafarers, merchants
and industrialists. Since they were united under the House of
Barcelona, their nationhood has been threatened by marriages,
alliances and conflicts with Madrid, and the road to their present
status as a semi-autonomous region within Spain has been marked
by times of power and wealth and troughs of weakness and despair.

Barcelona was not a natural site for In reprisal, the Romans arrived at
human settlement. Its port was neg- Empúries and began the subjugation
ligible and its heights, Montjuïc, had of the whole Iberian peninsula. They
no water. The oldest evidence of man wiped out the Carthaginians as well as
in Catalonia comes the Laeitani and
rather from other sites established Tarraco
scattered across the (Tarragona, see p128) in
region, notably the dol- the south of Catalonia
mens of the Alt (high) as the imperial capital
Empordà and passage of Tarraconensis, one of
graves of the Baix (low) the three administrative
Empordà and Alt Urgell. regions of the peninsula.
In the first millennium Roman Barcelona can
BC the lands around be seen in the city gate
Barcelona were settled beside the cathedral,
by the agrarian Laeita- while the 3rd-century
Roman mosaic floor excavated in
ni, while other parts of Barcelona depicting the Three Graces
walls that once en-
Catalonia were simul- circled the town lie by
taneously colonized by the Iberians. the medieval Royal Palace (see p56).
The latter were great builders in stone Foundations of the Roman city have
and remains of one of their been excavated in the basement of
settlements are still visible at Ullastret the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (see
on the Costa Brava. Greek traders p56-7), and pillars from the Temple
arrived on the coast around 550 BC, of Augustus can be glimpsed inside
founding their first trading post at the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya
Empúries (Emporion, see p120) near (see p55) behind the cathedral.
Ullastret. It was the Carthaginians When the Roman Empire collapsed,
from New Carthage in southern Spain Visigoths based in Toulouse moved
who put Barcelona on the map. They in to fill the vacuum. They had been
named the city after Hamil Barca, vassals of Rome, practised Roman
father of Hannibal who led his army law, spoke a similar language and in
of elephants from Catalonia over the 587 their Aryan king, Reccared,
Pyrenees and Alps to attack Rome. converted to the Christianity of Rome.

TIMELINE
500–200 BC Fortified Iberian settlements 550 BC Greeks establish
at Ullastret. Cyclopean walls of Tarragona trading settlement at
Empúries
1000–500 BC Indo-Europeans invade Ter and
Llobregat valleys; Iberians settle Montjuïc Visigothic Cross
2500 BC 1500 BC 500 BC AD 500

2000–1500 BC 230 BC 218 BC 531 Visigoths estab-

Megalithic Barcelona Romans lished in Barcelona
monuments built founded by arrive at after fall of Rome
throughout Hamil Barca, Empúries
Catalonia father of to subju- AD 258 Barcelona city walls
Hannibal Hannibal gate Spain built after a Frankish invasion

Troops fraternizing with local militia in the Baixada de la Llibreteria, Barcelona, during the 1833–9 Carlist War
 42 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

THE MOORS AND

CHARLEMAGNE
The Visigoths established
their capital at Toledo, just
south of modern Madrid.
When King Wirtzia died in
710, his son, Akhila, is
said to have called on the
Saracens from north
Africa for help in claiming
the throne. In 711, with
astonishing speed, Muslim
and Berber tribes began
to drive up through
the Iberian peninsula, Page from a 15th-century manuscript of the Llibre del Consolat de Mar
reaching Barcelona in
717, then Poitiers in France in 732, most powerful figure in the east was
where they were finally stopped by Guifré el Pelós (Wilfred the Hairy),
the Frankish leader, Charles Martel. who consolidated the counties of
The Muslims made their capital Barcelona, Cerdanya, Conflent, Osona
in Córdoba in southern Spain, while the Urgell and Girona and founded the
Visigothic nobles found hiding places monastery of Ripoll (see p114) – el
in the Pyrenees, bressol de Catalunya (the cradle of
from which they Catalonia). Guifré died in battle against
conducted sorties the Moors in 897, but he had started a
against the invad- dynasty of Counts of Barcelona which
ers. They were was to last, unbroken, for 500 years.
aided by Charles Before the end of the 11th century,
Martel’s grandson, under Ramon Berenguer I, Catalonia
Charles the Great had established the first constitutional
(Charlemagne). government in Europe with a bill of
In 801 Barcelona rights, the Usatges. By the early 12th
was retaken by the century, under Ramon Berenguer III,
Franks, only to be Catalonia’s boundaries had pushed
lost and taken south past Tarragona. Catalan
again. The short- influence also spread north and east
Ramon Berenguer I of
ness of the Muslim when he married Dolça of Provence,
Barcelona (1035–76) occupation left linking the two regions and, more
Catalonia, unlike lastingly, the principality of Barcelona
the rest of Spain, unmarked by the was united with its neighbour Aragon
culture and language of Islam. in 1137 by the marriage of Ramon
Berenguer IV and Petronila of Aragon.
THE COUNTS OF BARCELONA In 1196 the great monastery of Poblet
Charlemagne created the Hispanic (see pp126–7) in Tarragona province
Marc, a buffer state along the Pyrenees, took the place of Ripoll as the
which he entrusted to local lords. The pantheon of Catalan royalty.

TIMELINE
801 Moors ejected. Charlemagne 1060 Constitution,
717 Catalonia sets up buffer state Usatges, is drawn up
occupied by around the time that the
Muslims Charlemagne word Catalan is first
(742–814) recorded

700 800 900 1000

711 North Moorish 878 Guifré el Pelós (Wilfred the 1008–46 Abbot Oliva
African sword 778 Charlemagne, leader of Hairy), Count of Cerdanya-Urgell, builds church at
Muslims the Franks, begins consolidates eastern Pyrenees and Ripoll and oversees
invade campaign to drive Moors gains virtual autonomy. He starts Benedictine building
Spanish from Spain 500-year dynasty of Counts of including Vic and
mainland Barcelona Monserrat
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C A T A L O N I A 43

MARITIME EXPANISION (see p64). La Llotja

Under Jaume I the Conqueror (1213–76), (the stock ex-
Catalonia began a period of prosperity change) was sited
and expansion. By the end of the 13th by what was then
century the Balearic islands and Sicily the main port,
had been conquered; many of the ships and the
used in the enterprise were built at the church of
vast Drassanes shipyards in Barcelona Santa Maria
(see p69). Catalonia now ruled the seas del Mar (see
and the Llibre del Consolat de Mar was p64) was built
a code of trading practice that held by grateful mer-
sway throughout the Mediterranean. chants. Under Pere
Swashbuckling admirals included Roger IV (1336–87) two
de Llúria, who won a definitive victory great halls were
over the French fleet in the Bay of Roses built: the Royal Ex voto in the form of a
15th-century ship
in 1285, and Roger de Flor, leader of a Palace’s Saló del
bunch of fierce Catalan and Aragonese Tinell and the Casa de la Ciutat’s Saló
mercenaries, the Almogàvers. These de Cent (see pp56–7).
won battles for both the King of Sicily Prosperity brought a flowering of
and the Byzantine emperor before Catalan literature. Jaume I wrote his
Roger de Flor was murdered in 1305. own Llibre dels Feits (Book of Deeds),
During Jaume I’s long reign the Corts and Pere el Gran’s conquest of Sicily
(parliament) was established, the city in 1282 was described in glowing terms
walls were rebuilt to enclose an area in a chronicle of Catalan history written
ten times larger than that enclosed by by Bernat Desclot around 1285. The
the old Roman walls, and noble houses great Catalan poet Ramon Lull (1232–
arose down the new Carrer Montcada 1315), born in Mallorca, was the first
to use a vernacular
language in religious
writing. From 1395 an
annual poetry compe-
tition, the Jocs Florals,
was held in the city,
attracting the region’s
troubadours. In 1450,
Joanot Martorell began
writing his Catalan
chivalric epic narrative
Tirant lo Blanc, though
he died in 1468, 22
years before it was
published. Miguel de
Cervantes, author of
Don Quijote, described
it as simply “the best
Wall painting showing Jaume I during his campaign to conquer Mallorca book in the world”.

1137 Barcelona 1258–72 Consolat de Mar, 1282 Pere el Gran 1347–8 Black death kills a
united to a code of trading practice, takes Sicily. His quarter of the population
neighbouring holds sway throughout exploits are
Aragon by the Mediterranean recorded in 1359 Generalitat 1423 Conquest
royal marriage Desclot’s Chronicles founded of Naples
1100 1200 1300 1400
1148 Frontier 1213–35 Jaume I 1324 Sardinia captured
with Moors (The Conqueror)
pushed back takes Mallorca, Ibiza 1302–5 Catalan mercenaries under Admiral Roger
to Riu Ebre and Formentera de Flor aid Byzantium against the Turks
1287 Conquest of Mallorca under Alfons III
Jaume I (1213–76)
 44 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

FERNANDO AND ISABEL OF CASTILE REVOLTS AND SIEGES

Catholic Spain was united in 1479 During the Thirty Years War with France
when Fernando II of Catalonia-Aragon (1618–59), Felipe IV forced Barcelona’s
married Isabel of Castile, a region which Corts to raise an army to fight the
by then had absorbed French, towards whom the Catalans
the rest of northern bore no grudge. A viceroy was imposed
Spain. In 1492 on the city and unruly Spanish troops
they drove the were billeted throughout the region.
last of the In June 1640 the population arose, and
Moors from harvesters (segadors) murdered the
the penin- viceroy. The Song of the Harvesters is
sula, then, still sung at Catalan gatherings. Barce-
in a fever lona then allied
of right- itself with
eousness, France, but was
Baptizing Jews during the era of
also drove besieged and
the Catholic Monarchs out the defeated by
Jews, who Felipe. The peace
had large and commercially important of 1659 ceded
populations in Barcelona (see p56) and Catalan lands
Girona. This was the same year that north of the Pyr- Wall tile for a Catalan
Columbus had set foot in America, enees to France. trade guild
returning in triumph to Barcelona with A second con-
six Carib Indians (see p58). However, frontation with Madrid arose during the
the city lost out when the monopoly on War of the Spanish Succession when
New World trade was given to Seville Europe’s two dominant royal houses,
and Cádiz. Though it still had great the Habsburgs and Bourbons, both
moments, such as its involvement in laid claim to the throne. Barcelona,
the victory over the Turks at Lepanto with England as an ally, found itself
in 1571 (see p69), Barcelona went into on the losing side, supporting the
a period of decline. Habsburgs. As a result, it was heavily

The great siege of Barcelona in 1714 during the War of the Spanish Succession

TIMELINE
1492 Columbus 1494 Supreme The Spanish Inquisition, 1619 1659 Treaty of the
discovers Americas. Council of Spanish Pyrenees at end of Thirty
Barcelona barred from Aragon brings active from 1478 capital Years War draws new
trade with the New Catalonia under established border with France;
World. Jews expelled Castilian control in Madrid Roussillon ceded to France
1450 1500 1550 1600 1650
1479 Fernando II 1490 Tirant lo 1571 Vast fleet 1640 Revolt of the
of Catalonia- Blanc, epic tale sets sail from harvesters (segadors)
Aragon marries of chivalry by Barcelona to against Spanish
Isabel of Castile, Martorell (see defeat the exploitation of Catalan
uniting all the p43), published Ottomans at resources during Thirty
houses of Spain in Catalan sea at Lepanto Years War with France
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C A T A L O N I A 45

(see pp122–3) were sacked and pillaged.

They suffered further in 1835 under a
republican government when many
were seen as too rich and powerful
and were dissolved. This was a polit-
ically vigorous time, when a minority
of largely rural reactionaries fought a
rearguard action against the liberal
spirit of the century in the Carlist Wars.

THE CATALAN RENAIXENÇA

Barcelona was the first city in Spain to
industrialize, mainly around cotton
manufacture, from imported raw mate-
rial from the Americas. It brought
immigrant workers and a burgeoning
population, and in 1854 the city burst
out of its medieval walls (see p71).
Women joining in the defence of Girona against
Inland, industrial centres such as
the Napoleonic French in 1809 Terrassa and Sabadell flourished and
colònies industrials (industrial work-
besieged by troops of the incoming houses) grew up along the rivers
Bourbon king, Felipe V. The city fell where mills were powered by water.
on 11 September 1714, today celebrated Just as the wealth of the 14th century
as National Day (see p36). Felipe then inspired Catalonia’s first flowering, so
proceeded to annul all of Catalonia’s the wealth from industry inspired the
privileges. Its language was banned, Renaixença, a renaissance of Catalan
its universities closed and Lleida’s culture. Its literary rallying points were
Gothic cathedral became a barracks. Bonaventura Aribau’s Oda a la patria
Felipe tore down the Ribera district of and the poems of a young monk, Jacint
Barcelona and, in what is now Ciuta- Verdaguer, who won poetry prizes in
della Park (see p65), built a citadel to the revived Jocs Florals (see p43).
keep an eye on the population.
With the lifting of trade restric-
tions with the Americas, Catalonia
began to recover economically.
Progress, however, was inter-
rupted by the 1793–95 war with
France and then by the 1808–14
Peninsular War (known in Spain
as the War of Independence) when
Napoleon put his brother Joseph
on the Spanish throne. Barcelona
fell in early 1808, but Girona
withstood a seven-month siege. Well-to-do barcelonins selecting from a wide range of locally
Monasteries, including Montserrat produced calico in the early 19th century

Felipe V 1808–14 Peninsular War (War of 1823–6 1835 Monasteries dissolved

(1700 –24) Independence): Girona besieged, French
Barcelona occupied, Monastery occupy 1833–9 1859 Revival of Jocs Florals
of Montserrat sacked Catalonia First Carlist poetry competition feeds
War Renaissance of Catalan culture.
1700 1750 1800 1850

1714 Barcelona sacked by Felipe V, 1849 Spain’s first railway built

first Bourbon king. Catalan univer- to link Barcelona and Mataró
sities closed. Catalan language banned
1833 Aribau’s Oda a la patria published
1778 Catalonia allowed to trade with
the Americas, bringing new wealth Poet Bonaventura Carles Aribau i Farriols
46 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A

Universal Exhibition in the Parc

de la Ciutadella where Felipe
V’s citadel had recently been
torn down. The urban expan-
sion (eixample) inland was
carefully ordered under a plan
by Ildefons Cerdà (see p71) and
industrial barons employed
imaginative architects to show
off their wealth, most success-
fully Eusebi Güell and Antoni
Gaudí (see pp24–5). The de-
A hall of Spanish goods at the 1888 Universal Exhibition
struction of the monasteries had
left spaces for sumptuous build-
CATALANISM AND MODERNISME ings such as the
The Renaixença produced a new Palau de la Música
pride in Catalonia, and “Catalanism” Catalana (see p63),
was at the heart of the region’s accel- the Liceu opera house
erating move towards autonomy, a and La Boqueria
move echoed in Galicia and the market (see p155).
Basque Country. Interruptions by the Spain’s noninvolve-
Carlist Wars came to an end in 1876 ment in World War I
and resulted in the restoration of the meant that Catalonia’s
Bourbon monarchy. Modernista architec-
The first home-rule party, the Lliga ture was unscathed.
de Catalunya, was founded in 1887, Barcelona’s place as Antoni Gaudí,
and disputes with the central govern- a showcase city was Modernisme’s most
ment continued. It was blamed for the confirmed with the creative architect
loss of the American colonies, and 1929 International
therefore lucrative Exhibition on Montjuïc, many
transatlantic trade, of whose buildings still remain.
and for involving
Spain in unnecessary CIVIL WAR
conflict in Morocco. The Mancomunitat, a local
La setmana tràgica council established in 1914,
(tragic week) of 1909 disappeared on the arrival in
saw the worst of the 1923 of the dictator Primo de
violent protests: 116 Rivera, Barcelona’s military
people died and governor. In 1931 Francesc
300 were injured. Macià declared himself Presi-
Meanwhile, on a dent of the Catalan Republic,
more cultural and which lasted three days. Three
artistic level and to years later Lluís Companys
show off its increas- was arrested and sentenced
ing wealth, Barce- to 30 years’ imprisonment for
lona held in 1888 a Poster for 1929 Exhibition attempting to do the same.

TIMELINE
1872–6 1888 Universal Exhibition 1909 Setmana Primo de Rivera 1931 Francesc
Third and last held in Parc de la Ciutadella, tràgica: violent (1870–1930) Macià declares
Carlist War showing off the new protest against independence
Modernista style Moroccan Wars for Catalonia

1875 1900 1925

1893 Anarchist 1929 International
bombs in Liceu Exhibition on Montjuïc
opera house kill 14
1901 Lliga Regionalista, 1936–9 Spanish Civil War. Republi-
new Catalan party, wins can government retreats from
Carlist soldiers elections Madrid to Valencia, then Barcelona
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C A T A L O N I A 47

Refugees on the march in 1939, fleeing towards the Pyrenees to seek asylum in France

Finally, on 16 July 1936, General and the monarchy, under the Bourbon
Francisco Franco led an army revolt Juan Carlos, were restored. Catalonia
against the Republican government has since won a large degree of
and the fledgling autonomous states. autonomy, including tax-raising
The government fled Madrid to powers and in June 2006 a new
Valencia, then Barcelona. City and Statute of Autonomy of Catalonia
coast were bombed by German air- was approved, giving Catalonians a
craft, and shelled by Italian warships. new legal framework for greater
When Barcelona fell three years later, political independence.
thousands escaped to camps in France Pasqual Maragall, Barcelona’s mayor
and thousands, including Companys, until 1997 and president of Catalonia
were executed in Franco’s reprisals. from 2003 to 2006, steered the radical
Catalonia lost all it had gained, and its shake-up of the city for the 1992
language was outlawed once more. Olympic Games. Barcelona changed
The noche negra, the dark night that dramatically, with a bold new water-
followed Franco’s victory, left Barce- front, inspired urban spaces, new
lona short of resources and largely access roads, and state-of-the-art
neglected by Madrid. The 1960s, museums and galleries.
however, brought new economic
opportunities, and between 1960
and 1975 two million Spaniards
came to work in the city. The arrival
of the first tourists to the coast
during that time, to the Costa Brava
and Costa Daurada, changed the
face of Spain for ever.

LIFE AFTER FRANCO

Champagne flowed freely in
Barcelona’s streets on the news of
Franco’s death in 1975. Democracy Opening ceremony, 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games

1947 Spain declared a monarchy 1975 Franco dies. King Juan 2008 High Speed AVE
with Franco as regent Carlos restores Bourbon line train line between
1992 Barcelona and
1953 US bases welcomed 1979 Partial autonomy Olympic Games Madrid inaugurated
granted to Catalonia held in Barcelona
1950 1975 2000 2025
1960s Costa Brava 1985 Medes Islands 2004 Universal
leads package become Spain’s first Forum of Cultures
1939 50,000 go into holiday boom marine nature reserve held in Barcelona
exile in France.
Catalan President 1986 Spain enters Cobi, the Olympic
Companys executed European Union mascot
 BARCELONA
AND CATALONIA

BARCELONA AT A GLANCE 5051

OLD TOWN 5269
EIXAMPLE 7083
MONTJUÏC 8491
FURTHER AFIELD 9299
THREE GUIDED WALKS 100107
CATALONIA 108129
50 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Introducing Barcelona
Barcelona, one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports,
is more than the capital of Catalonia. In culture,
commerce and sports it not only rivals Madrid, but
also considers itself on a par with the greatest Euro-
pean cities. The success of the 1992 Olympic Games,
staged in the Parc de Montjuïc, confirmed this to the
world. Although there are plenty of historical monu-
ments in the Ciutat Vella (Old Town), Barcelona is best
known for the scores of buildings in the Eixample left
by the artistic explosion of Modernisme (see pp24–5)
in the decades around 1900. Always open to outside
influences because of its location on the coast, not
too far from the French border, Barcelona continues
to sizzle with creativity: its bars and the public parks
speak more of bold contemporary
design than of tradition.
Casa Milà (see p79) is the most
avant-garde of all the works of
Antoni Gaudí (see p78).
Barcelona has more Art
Nouveau buildings than any
other city in the world.

Palau Nacional (see p88), on the hill of MONTJUIC

Montjuïc, dominates the monumental halls (see pp 84–91)
and the fountain-filled avenue built for
the 1929 International Exhibition. It now
houses the Museu Nacional d’Art de Cata-
lunya, with an exceptional collection of
medieval art, rich in Romanesque frescoes.

Christopher Columbus
surveys the waterfront
from the top of a 60-m
(200-ft) column (see p69)
in the heart of the Port
Vell (Old Port). From the
top, visitors can look
out over the new
promenades and
quays that have
Montjuïc Castle (see p89) is a massive fortification revitalized the area.
dating from the 17th century. Sited on the crest of the hill
of Montjuïc, it offers panoramic views of the city and 0 kilometres 1
port, and forms a sharp contrast to the ultra-modern
sports halls built nearby for the 1992 Olympic Games. 0 miles 0.5

La Rambla de Mar crossing the water in the Old Port to the Maremàgnum leisure complex
 B A R C E L O N A A T A G L A N C E 51

The Sagrada Família

(see pp80–1), Gaudí’s
unfinished masterpiece,
begun in 1882, rises
above the streets of the
Eixample. Its poly-
chrome ceramic mosaics
and sculptural forms
inspired by nature are
typical of his work.

Barcelona Cathedral (see pp58–9)

EIXAMPLE is a magnificent 14th-century
(see pp70–83) building in the heart of the Barri
Gòtic (Gothic Quarter). It has 28
side chapels which encircle the
nave and contain some splendid
Baroque altarpieces.
The keeping of white geese in the
cloisters is a centuries-old tradition.

OLD TOWN
(see pp52–69)

Parc de la Ciutadella (see p65), between the Old

Town and the Vila Olímpica, has something
for everyone. The gardens full of statuary offer
relaxation, the boating lake and the zoo are
fun, while the Museu de Ciències Naturals
within its gates covers geology and zoology.

La Rambla (see pp60–1) is the most

famous street in Spain, alive at all
hours of the day and night. A stroll
down its length to the seafront, taking
in its palatial buildings, shops, cafés
and street vendors, makes a perfect
introduction to Barcelona life.
 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A 53

OLD TOWN
T he old town, traversed by the
city’s most famous avenue, La
Rambla, is one of the most ex -
tensive medieval city centres in Europe.
The Barri Gòtic contains the cathedral
replete with 14th-century mansions.
This area is bounded by the leafy Parc
de la Ciutadella, home to the city’s zoo.
The revitalized seafront is a stimulating
mix of old and new. Trendy shops and
and a maze of streets and squares. restaurants make up the fashionable
Across from the Via Laietana, the El marina, contrasted with the old mar-
Born neighbourhood is dominated by itime neighbourhood of Barceloneta
the Santa Maria del Mar church and is and the new Olympic port.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries Streets and Districts Monuments
Aquarium f Barceloneta s Arc del Triomf y
Museu d’Art Contemporani 0 La Rambla 7 Monument a Colom h
Museu d’Historia de Catalunya g El Raval 9
Museu de Ciències Naturals Churches
GETTING THERE
(Edifici Geologia) o Basílica de Santa Maria
The area is well served by
Museu de Ciències Naturals del Mar r Metro lines 1, 3 and 4; Jaume I
(Edifici Zoología) i Cathedral (pp58–9) 6 station is in the heart of the
Museu Frederic Marès 2 Barri Gòtic. Many buses pass
Historic Buildings
Museu Marítim and Drassanes k through the Plaça de Catalunya
Casa de l’Ardiaca 1
Museu Picasso e on the edge of the Barri Gòtic.
Casa de la Ciutat 4
Museu de la Xocolata t
La Llotja w
Parks and Gardens
Palau de la Generalitat 5
Parc de la Ciutadella u
Palau de la Música Catalana q
Parc Zoològic p
Palau Güell 8
Harbour Sights Museu d’Història de
Golondrinas j la Ciutat – Plaça del Rei 3
Port Olímpic a 6OJWFSTJUBU
Port Vell d
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Els Quatre Gats café in one of the narrow streets of Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic
54 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Barri Gòtic

The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) is the true heart of Casa de l’Ardiaca
Barcelona. The oldest part of the city, it was the Built on the Roman city wall,
site chosen by the Romans in the reign of the Gothic-Renaissance
Augustus (27 BC–AD 14) on which to found a archdeacon’s residence
new colonia (town), and has been the location now houses Barcelona’s
of the city’s administrative buildings ever since. historical archives 1
The Roman forum was on the Plaça de Sant
To Plaça de Catalunya
Jaume, where now stand the medieval Palau
de la Generalitat, the seat of
Catalonia’s government, and the
Wax candle, Casa de la Ciutat, the city’s town
Cereria hall. Close by are the Gothic
Subirà
cathedral and royal palace,
where Columbus was received by
Fernando and Isabel on his return from
the New World in 1492 (see p44).

(((")
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medieval Catalan
paintings 6

Palau de la
Generalitat
Catalonia’s seat of
government has
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features, such as the )$* +#
chapel and a staircase ((((($
to an open-air,
arcaded gallery 5
((("+**

To La Rambla

Casa de la Ciutat (Ajuntament)

Barcelona’s town hall was built in
the 14th and 15th centuries. The
façade is a Neo-Classical addition.
In the entrance hall stands Three
Gypsy Boys by Joan Rebull (1899– KEY
1981), a 1976 copy of a sculpture
Suggested route
he originally created in 1946 4
 O L D T O W N 55

Museu Frederic Marès

EIXAMPLE
This medieval doorway is from
an extensive display of Spanish
sculpture – the mainstay of this
museum’s extraordinarily eclectic OLD TOWN
and high-quality collections 2 MONTJUIC

Roman city wall

LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder map 5
Saló del Tinell

. Palau Reial
The 14th-century
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de Santa Àgata,
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by a millstone in the street outside.

STAR SIGHTS
. Cathedral
0 metres 100
. Palau Reial
0 yards 100
56 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museu d’Història
de la Ciutat – Plaça
del Rei 3
Plaça del Rei. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 256 21
00.  Jaume I. # Apr–Sep: 10am–
8pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–2pm,
4–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. ¢
1 Jan, 1 May, 24 Jun, 25 Dec. & free
1st Sat afternoon of the month. 8
by appt. www.museuhistoria.bcn.es

The Royal Palace was the

residence of the count-kings
Decorated marble mailbox, Casa de l’Ardiaca of Barcelona from its founda-
tion in the 13th century. The
Casa de l’Ardiaca 1 century nuns, who lived here complex includes the 14th-
until they were expelled in century Gothic Saló del Tinell,
Carrer de Santa Llúcia 1. Map 5 B2. 1936. Marès, who had a small a vast room with arches span-
Tel 93 318 11 95. r Jaume I. apartment in the build- ning 17 m (56 ft). This is where
# 9am–8:45pm Mon–Fri, ing, opened this muse- Isabel and Fernando (see p44)
9am–1pm Sat. ¢ public hols. um in 1948. It contains received Columbus after his
www.bcn.cat/arxiu/arxiuhistoric a fascinating triumphal return from America.
collection of works, It is also where the Holy
Standing beside what was including some out- Inquisition sat, believing the
originally the Bishop’s standing examples
Gate in the Roman wall is of Romanesque and
the Archdeacon’s House. Gothic religious art.
It was built in the 12th In the crypt there
century, but its present are stone sculptures
form dates from around and two complete
1500 when it was remodel- Romanesque portals.
led, including the addition Exhibits on the three
of a colonnade. In 1870 floors above range
this was extended to from clocks, cruci-
form the Flamboyant Virgin, Museu fixes and costumes
Gothic patio around a Frederic Marès to antique cameras,
fountain. The Modernista pipes and post-
architect Domènech i Montaner cards. There is also a room full
(1850–1923) added the fanciful of children’s toys. Restoration
marble mailbox, carved with work, which closed the muse- Gothic nave of the Capella de Santa
three swallows and a tortoise, um, is due to end mid-2011. Àgata, Palau Reial
beside the Renaissance portal.
Upstairs is the Arxiu Històric
de la Ciutat (City Archives). BARCELONA’S EARLY JEWISH COMMUNITY
From the 11th to the 13th centuries Jews
dominated Barcelona’s commerce and
Museu Frederic culture, providing doctors and founding
Marès 2 the first seat of learning. But in 1243, 354
years after they were first documented in
Plaça de Sant Iu 5. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 the city, violent anti-Semitism led to the
256 35 00.  Jaume I. # 10am– Jews being consigned to a ghetto, El Call.
7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. ¢ 1 Ostensibly to provide protection, the
Jan, Good Fri, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec. & ghetto had only one entrance, which led
(free to under 16s, also Wed after 3pm Hebrew tablet into the Plaça de Sant Jaume. Jews were
& 1st Sun of every month). 7 8 by heavily taxed by the monarch, who viewed
appt. www.museumares.bcn.es them as “royal serfs”; but in return they also received
privileges, as they handled most of Catalonia’s lucrative trade
The sculptor Frederic Marès i with North Africa. However, official and popular persecution
Deulovol (1893–1991) was also finally led to the disappearance of the ghetto in 1401, 91
a traveller and collector, and years before Judaism was fully outlawed in Spain (see p44).
this museum is a monument to Originally there were three synagogues, the main one being
his eclectic taste. As part of the in Carrer Sant Domènec del Call, but only the foundations
Royal Palace, it was occupied are left. A 14th-century Hebrew tablet is embedded in the wall
by 13th-century bishops, 14th- at No. 5 Carrer de Marlet, which reads: “Holy Foundation
century counts of Barcelona, of Rabbi Samuel Hassardi. His soul will rest in Heaven”.
15th-century judges and 18th-
 O L D T O W N 57

walls would move if lies were Casa de la Ciutat 4

told. On the right, built into
the Roman city wall, is the Plaça de Sant Jaume 1. Map 5 A2.
royal chapel, the Capella de Tel 93 402 73 00.  Jaume I or Liceu.
Santa Àgata, with a painted # 10am–1:30pm Sun (12 Feb: 10am–
wood ceiling and an altar- 8pm; 23 Apr: 10am–6:30pm), or by
piece (1466) by Jaume Huguet appointment (93 402 73 64). 8 7
(see p28). Its bell tower is
formed by part of a watch- The magnificent 14th-century
tower on the Roman wall. city hall (ajuntament) faces
Stairs on the right of the the Palau de la Generalitat.
altar lead to the 16th-century Flanking the entrance are
tower of Martí the Humanist statues of Jaume I (see p43),
(who reigned from 1396– who granted the city rights to
1410), the last ruler of the elect councillors in 1249, and
500-year dynasty of the Joan Fiveller, who levied taxes The Italianate façade of the Palau
count-kings of Barcelona. on court members in the 1500s. de la Generalitat
From the top of the tower Inside is the huge council
there are fine views. chamber, the 14th-century Saló façade, is a statue of Sant Jordi
The main attraction of the de Cent, built for the city’s 100 (St George) – the patron saint
Museu d’Història lies under- councillors. The Saló de les of Catalonia – and the Dragon.
ground. Entire streets and Cròniques was commissioned The late Catalan-Gothic court-
squares of old Barcino are for the 1929 International Exhi- yard is by Marc Safont (1416).
accessible via a lift and bition and decorated by Josep- Among the fine interiors are
walkways suspended over the Maria Sert (see p29) with murals the Gothic chapel of Sant Jordi,
ruins of Roman Barcelona. of events in Catalan history. also by Safont, and Pere Blai’s
The site was discovered when Italianate Saló de Sant Jordi.
the Casa Clariana-Padellàs, The building is open to the
the Gothic building from
Palau de la public only on the saint’s
which you enter, was moved Generalitat 5 feast day. At the back, one
here stone by stone in 1931, floor above street level, lies
as demonstrated by an Plaça de Sant Jaume 4. Map 5 A2. the Pati dels Tarongers, the
extraordinary photo of the Tel 93 402 46 00.  Jaume I. # 23 Orange Tree Patio, by Pau
original dig towards the Apr (St Jordi’s Day), Sat by appointment Mateu, which has a bell tower
end of the exhibit. The water only (call 93 402 46 17), 2nd & 4th built by Pere Ferrer in 1568.
and drainage systems, baths, Sun of every month: 10:30am– The Catalan president has
homes with mosaic floors, 1:30pm. 7 8 www.gencat.cat offices here as well as in the
dye works, laundries and Casa dels Canonges. The two
even the old forum now Since 1403 the Generalitat has buildings are connected across
make up the most extensive been the seat of the Catalonian Carrer del Bisbe by a bridge
and complete subterranean Government. Above the built in 1928 and modelled on
Roman ruins in the world. entrance, in its Renaissance the Bridge of Sighs in Venice.

The magnificent council chamber, the Saló de Cent, in the Casa de la Ciutat
58 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Barcelona Cathedral 6

This compact gothic cathedral, with a The twin

Romanesque chapel (the Capella de octagonal bell
Santa Llúcia) and beautiful cloister, was towers date
from 1386–93.
begun in 1298 under Jaume II, on the The bells
foundations of a Roman temple and were installed
Moorish mosque. It was not finished in this tower
until the early 20th century, when the in 1545.
central spire was completed. A white
marble choir screen, sculpted in the
16th century, depicts the martyrdom
of St Eulàlia, the city’s patron.
Next to the font,
Statue of a plaque records
St Eulàlia the baptism
of six native
Caribbeans, brought back
from the Americas by
Columbus in 1493.

The main façade

was not completed
until 1889, and the
central spire until 1913.
It was based on the
original 1408 plans of
the French architect
Charles Galters.

Nave Interior
The Catalan-style Gothic
interior has a single wide
nave with 28 side chapels.
These are set between the
columns supporting the
vaulted ceiling, which
rises to 26 m (85 ft).
. Choir Stalls
The top tier of the beautifully
carved 15th-century stalls
contains painted coats of
arms (1518) of several
European kings.

Capella del Santíssim

Sagrament
This small chapel houses
the 16th-century Christ
of Lepanto crucifix.
 O L D T O W N 59

Capella de Sant Benet VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This chapel, dedicated to the
founder of the Benedictine Plaça de la Seu. Map 5 A2.
Order and patron saint of Tel 93 342 82 60.  Jaume I.
@ 17, 19, 45. # 8am–7:30pm
Europe, houses a magnifi-
daily, guided tours 1–5pm daily
cent altarpiece showing (2–5pm Sun). & (free from 8am–
The Transfiguration by 12:45pm & 5:15–7:30pm daily).
Bernat Martorell 7 Sacristy Museum # 9am–
(1452). 1pm, 5–7pm daily. & Choir #
daily. & 5 services daily.

. Crypt
In the crypt, beneath
the main altar, is the
alabaster sarcophagus
(1339) of St Eulàlia,
martyred for her beliefs
by the Romans during
the 4th century AD.

. Cloisters
The fountain, set in a corner
of the Gothic cloisters and
decorated with a statue
of St George,
provided
fresh
water.

Porta de Santa Eulàlia, STAR SIGHTS

entrance to cloisters
. Choir Stalls
The Sacristy Museum has a . Crypt
small treasury. Pieces include
an 11th-century font, tapestries . Cloisters
Capella de and liturgical artifacts.
Santa Llúcia

TIMELINE
559 Basilica dedicated to 1339 St Eulàlia’s relics 1913 Central spire
St Eulàlia and Holy Cross transferred to alabaster completed
sarcophagus
877 St Eulàlia’s remains 1046–58 Romanesque 1889 Main façade completed,
brought here from cathedral built under based on plans dating from 1408
Santa Maria del Mar Ramon Berenguer I by architect Charles Galters

400 700 1000 1300 1600 1900

4th century 985 Building 1257–68 1493
Original Roman destroyed by Romanesque Indians
(paleo-Christian) the Moors Capella de Santa brought
basilica built Llúcia built back from
the Americas
1298 Gothic cathedral are baptized
begun under Jaume II Plaque of the Caribbeans’ baptism
60 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

La Rambla 7

The historic avenue of La Rambla, leading to the sea,

is busy around the clock, especially in the evenings
and at weekends. Newsstands, caged bird and flower
stalls, tarot readers, musicians and mime artists throng
the wide, tree-shaded central walkway. Among its
famous buildings are the Liceu Opera House, the huge
Boqueria food market and some grand mansions.

Exploring La Rambla make up the great avenue

The name of this long between the Port Vell and The busy, tree-lined avenue
avenue, also known as Les Plaça de Catalunya. of La Rambla
Rambles, comes from the
Arabic ramla, meaning the Mercat de Sant Josep Plaza de la Mercat de Sant Josep 5
dried-up bed of a seasonal Boqueria. Map 2 F3. Tel 93 318 Popularly known as “La
river. The 13th-century city 20 17.  Liceu. # 8am–8:30pm Boqueria”, the Mercat de Sant
wall followed the left bank of Mon–Sat. Josep is Barcelona’s most
such a river that flowed from Palau de la Virreina La Rambla colourful food market.
the Collserola hills to the sea. 99. Map 5 A2. Tel 93 316 10
Convents, monasteries and 00.  Liceu. # 11am–2pm,
the university were built on 4–8:30pm Mon–Fri, 11am–8:30pm
the other bank in the 16th Sat, 11am–3pm Sun.
century. As time passed, the Museu de Cera Pg de la Banca 7.
riverbed was filled in and Map 2 F4. Tel 93 317 26 49. 
those buildings demolished, Drassanes. # 10am–1:30pm
but they are remembered & 4–7:30pm Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm
in the names of the five & 4:30–8:30pm Sat, Sun & public hols
consecutive Rambles that (Jul–Aug: 10am–10pm daily). & 7

Gran Teatre del Liceu 7

Barcelona’s opera house
has had to be restored
twice following damage
caused by fires in 1861
and 1994.
CAR
RER
LAN
CAS
TER

L’ A RC
C. D E AT RE
D EL TE
DE
LA

Palau Güell 9
MB

This Neo-Gothic
RA

palace, completed in
1889, is considered Drassanes
to be one of Gaudí’s
T
SAN

most important works

The monument to Columbus at the bottom of the tree-lined Rambla (see p62).
 O L D T O W N 61

CA
RR
PLAÇA DE
Catalunya Font de Canaletes 1

ER
CATALUNYA
This 19th-century fountain has

D
EL

DE
S
PLAÇA four taps from which to drink.

ES
TA
VICENÇ

LA
Saying that someone “drinks the

LL
MARTORELL

LET
ER

MB
waters of Canaletes” indicates he

NA
RA
PLAÇA DEL
BONSUCCES
or she is from Barcelona.

CA
A
CARR

CAR RER DE S. ANN

C.
ER

D
E
LA
Reial Acadèmia de
Ciències i Arts 2
DE

CA
D’EN

N
U
DA Converted to a theatre
S
LA

C . D E P I N TOR FO RT in 1910, this building

DI

UN Y PLAÇA DE LA
MB

VILA DE
is the home of Barcelona’s
TU
XUCL

MADRID
first official public clock.
RA

ES
A

Palau Moja 3
C. D
This Classical building dates
E P
O R TA back to 1790. The Baroque
FER
RIS
SA first-floor salon of Palau Moja
is used for exhibitions.
ROCA

XOL
DE

EP

CARRER DE PETRIT
JOS

D’EN
BLA

Palau de la
Virreina 4
RAM

The first person

CARRER
SAN

to live in this great

palace in 1777,
was the widowed
virreina (viceroy’s
wife) of Spain
in Peru.
C.
DE
Liceu LA
DE BO
S

ER U QU
LA

R R PA ER
NA

CA NT IA
C. ARO

SA
C. QU IN TA

Plaça de la Boqueria 6
This square features a
colourful mosaic pavement
CARRER DE FERRAN by Joan Miró (1976) and a
C. DE LA Modernista dragon designed
UNIO
for a former umbrella shop.
S
DEL

INS
UTX
BLA

CAP

PLAÇA
RAM

REIAL
C NOU DE
ZURB ANO

UD EL LE RS
DE L S ES C
CA R R ER
RS
PASS A TGE ESCU DELLE

Plaça Reial 8
Barcelona’s liveliest square was KEY
A

built in the 1850s and is adorned

NIC

with palms. Its Neo-Classical FGC train station

carriage lamps were designed
MO

Metro station
by Gaudí.
Parking
Museu de Cera 0
Church
MONUMENT
This waxwork museum is housed in an
A

A COLOM PLAÇA
DEL PORTAL
atmospheric, 19th-century stately home. 0 metres 100
DE LA PAU The museum was established in 1973
and contains over 300 exhibits. 0 yards 100
62 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Palau Güell 8 Towards the port in Carrer

Nou de la Rambla is Gaudí’s
Nou de la Rambla 3–5. Map 2 F3. Palau Güell. At the end of
Tel 93 317 39 74.  Liceu. Carrer Sant Pau is the city’s
# Closed for restoration from July most complete Romanesque
2010 until mid-2011. Check website church, the 12th-century
for opening times. 7 Ground floor Sant Pau del Camp, with a
only. www.palauguell.cat charming cloister featuring
exquisitely carved capitals.
Gaudí’s first major work in
Barcelona’s city centre was
commissioned by his wealthy Museu d’Art
patron Eusebi Güell. Güell Contemporani 0
made it known that, even
if he was investing in an Plaça dels Angels 1. Map 2 F2. Tel 93
inexperienced architect, there 412 08 10.  Universitat, Catalunya.
would be no limit to the # 24 Jun–24 Sep: 11am–8pm Mon,
budget at Gaudí’s disposal. Wed & Sat, 11am–midnight Thu–Fri,
Gaudí took his patron at his 10am–3pm Sun; 25 Sep–23 Jun:
word as can be seen in the Palau Güell’s spire-like 11am–7:30pm Mon & Wed–Fri,
quality of the materials used roof chimneys 10am–8pm Sat, 10am–3pm Sun.
for what was a dispropor- ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 8 Tours in
tionately grand building raised English 6pm Mon. www.macba.cat
on a small plot in a narrow El Raval 9 Centre de Cultura Contemporània
street. The stone work is clad Montalegre 5. Tel 93 306 41 00.
with marble and inside, high Map 2 F3.  Catalunya, Liceu. www.cccb.org
quality woods are employed
throughout. The district of El Raval lies This dramatic, glass-fronted
As in his other buildings, west of La Rambla and building was designed by the
Gaudí designed furniture, includes the old red-light area American architect Richard
lights, stained glass, and many near the port, once known as Meier. Its light, airy galleries act
other fittings, working closely Barri Xinès (Chinese quarter). as the city’s contemporary art
with craftsmen to realise his From the 14th century, the mecca. The permanent collec-
ideas. The house was finished city hospital was in Carrer de tion of predominantly Spanish
in 1889 and was used not l’Hospital, which still has painting, sculpture and install-
only as a luxurious family several herbal and medicinal ation from the 1950s onwards
home for a wealthy man but shops. Gaudí (see p78) was is complemented by temporary
also a place to hold political brought here after being exhibitions from foreign artists
meetings, chamber concerts fatally hit by a tram in 1926. such as South African photo-
and to put up important The buildings now house journalist David Goldblatt and
guests. the Biblioteca de Catalunya US painter Susana Solano.
From the street there is little (Catalonian Library), but the Next to the MACBA is the
hint of the colour and playful- elegant former dissecting Centre de Cultura Contem-
ness to come in Gaudí’s room has been fully restored. porània, a lively arts centre.
mature work, except in the
spire-like chimneys behind
the parapet on the roof. The
austere façade of Palau Güell
is symmetrical and character-
ised mostly by straight lines,
both horizontal and vertical.
The only indication of Gaudí’s
later preference for curves is
in the two doorways, each
formed by a parabolic arch –
a geometric shape that he
would subsequently employ
to great effect.
Inside, the most notable
feature of the house is its very
high central room on the main
floor. Something between a
sitting room and a covered
courtyard, this central room
rises fully three floors (of a six
floor building) and is spanned
by a cupola. The other rooms
are grouped around it. Façade of the Museu d’ Art Contemporani
 O L D T O W N 63

Although the Orfeó is now

based at the more state-of-
the-art L’Auditori in Plaça de
les Glòries (see p162), there is
a concert at the Palau nearly
every night; it is the main
venue for the city’s jazz and
guitar festivals and national
and international symphony
orchestras regularly grace its
flamboyant stage.
The Palau’s new era began
with the completion of the
work carried out by the top
local architect Oscar Tusquets.
An underground concert hall
and an outdoor square for
summer concerts were added,
consolidating the Palau’s repu-
tation as Barcelona’s most
loved music venue.

La Llotja w
Carrer del Consolat de Mar 2. Map
5 B3. Tel 93 319 24 12 or 90 244 84
48.  Barceloneta. ¢ closed to
public (except twice a year, days vary).

La Llotja (meaning commodity

exchange) was built in the
1380s as the headquarters of
the Consolat de Mar (see p43).
It was remodelled in Neo-
Glorious stained-glass dome, Palau de la Música Catalana Classical style in 1771 and
housed the city’s stock
Palau de la Música sculpture of St George and exchange until 1994, the orig-
other figures at the corner inal Gothic hall acting as the
Catalana q of the building portrays an main trading room. It can still
allegory from Catalan folk- be seen through the windows.
Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt, s/n.
song by Miquel Blay. The upper floors housed
Map 5 B1. Tel 90 244 28 82. 
But it is the interior of the the Barcelona School of Fine
Urquinaona. # 10am–3:30pm
building that is truly inspiring. Arts from 1849 to 1970, attend-
daily; (to 6pm Easter and Aug); and
The auditorium is lit by a huge ed by the young Picasso and
for concerts. Buying tickets a week in
inverted dome of stained glass Joan Miró (see p29). This
advance online is recommended. &
depicting angelic choristers. is now occupied by local
7 8 on the hour in English.
The sculptures of composers government offices.
www.palaumusica.org
Wagner and Clavé on the
This is a real palace of music, proscenium arch that frames
a Modernista celebration of the stage area were designed
tilework, sculpture and by Domènech but finished by
glorious stained glass. It is the Pau Gargallo. The stunning
only concert hall in Europe lit “Muses of the Palau”, the
by natural light. Designed by group of 18 highly stylized,
Lluís Domènech i Montaner, instrument-playing maidens
it was completed in 1908. are the stage’s backdrop. Made
Although a few extensions of terracotta and trencadís
have been added, the building (broken pieces of ceramic)
still retains its original appear- they have become the build-
ance. The elaborate red-brick ing’s most admired feature.
façade is hard to appreciate The work of Josep Anselm
fully in the confines of the Clavé (1824–74) in promoting
narrow street. It is lined with Catalan song led to the creation
mosaic-covered pillars topped of the Orfeó Català choral
by busts of the great com- society in 1891, a focus of
posers Palestrina, Bach and Catalan nationalism and the Statue of Poseidon in the courtyard
Beethoven. The large stone inspiration behind the Palau. of La Llotja
64 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A wedding service in the Gothic interior of Santa Maria del Mar

Museu Picasso e donated by Jaime Sabartes, a Basílica de Santa

friend of Picasso. After Sabar-
Carrer Montcada 15–23. Map 5 B2. tes’ death in 1968, Picasso him- Maria del Mar r
Tel 93 256 30 00.  Jaume I. self donated paintings. He
Pl Sta Maria 1. Map 5 B3. Tel 93
# 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 Jan, also left graphic works in his
310 23 90.  Jaume I. # 9am–
1 May, 24 Jun, 25 & 26 Dec. will and ceramics were donat-
1:30pm & 4:30–8pm daily (10am Sun).
& free 1st Sun of month. 7 ed by his widow, Jacqueline.
8 email: museupicasso_reserves@ The strength of the 3,000-
bcn.cat. Free tours in English piece collection is Picasso’s This beautiful building, the
6pm Thu, noon Sat. www. early works. Even at the age city’s favourite church with
museupicasso.bcn.cat of 15, he was painting major superb acoustics for concerts, is
works such as The First Com- the only example of a church
The popular Picasso Museum munion (1896) and Science entirely in the Catalan Gothic
is housed in five adjoining and Charity (1897). There are a style. It took just 55 years to
medieval palaces on Carrer few works from his Blue and build, with money donated by
Montcada: Berenguer d’Aguilar, Rose periods. Most famous is merchants and shipbuilders.
Baró de Castellet, Meca, Mauri his series of 44 paintings, Las The speed – unrivalled in the
and Finestres. The museum Meninas, inspired by Veláz- Middle Ages – gave it a unity
opened in 1963 showing works quez’s masterpiece. of style both inside and out.

PABLO PICASSO IN BARCELONA

Picasso (1881–1973) was 13 when he arrived in Barcelona,
where his father, José Ruiz y Blasco, had found work
teaching in the city art school situated above the Llotja. The
city was rich, but it also possessed a large, poor working
class which was becoming organized and starting to rebel.
Shortly after the family’s arrival, a bomb was thrown into a
Corpus Christi procession. They settled at No 3 Carrer de
la Mercè, a gloomy, five-storeyed house not far from the
Llotja. Picasso’s precocious talent gave him admittance to the
upper school, where all the other pupils were aged at least
20. Here he immediately made friends with another artist,
Manuel Pallarès Grau, and the two lost their virginity to the
whores of Carrer d’Avinyó, who were to inspire Les
Demoiselles d’Avignon (1906–7), considered by many art
critics to be the wellspring of modern art. Picasso travelled
with Pallarès to the Catalan’s home town of Horta, where he
Pablo Picasso, Self-Portrait in painted some early landscapes, now in the Museu Picasso
charcoal (1899–1900) The two remained friends for the rest of their lives.
 O L D T O W N 65

The west front has a 15th- Arc del Triomf y 1720 following a 13-month
century rose window of the siege of the city (see p45). The
Coronation of the Virgin. Passeig Lluís Companys. Map 5 C1. fortress was intended to house
More stained glass, dating  Arc de Triomf. soldiers to keep law and order,
from the 15th to the 18th but was never used for this
centuries, lights the wide nave The main gateway to the 1888 purpose. Converted into a pri-
and high aisles. Universal Exhibition, which son, the citadel became noto-
When the choir and furnish- filled the Parc de la Ciutadella, rious during the Napoleonic
ings were burned in the Civil was designed by Josep Vilaseca occupation (see p45), and,
War (see p46), it added to the i Casanovas. It is built of brick during the 19th-century liberal
sense of space and simplicity. in Mudéjar (Spanish Moorish) repressions, it was hated as a
style, with sculpted allegories symbol of centralized power.
of crafts, industry and business. In 1878, under General Prim,
Museu de la The frieze by Josep Reynés on whose statue stands in the
Xocolata t the main façade represents the middle of the park, the citadel
city welcoming foreign visitors. was pulled down and the park
Comerç 36. Map 5 C2. Tel 93 268 given to the city, to become,
78 78.  Jaume I, Arc de Triomf. # The pink brick façade of the late in 1888, the venue of the
10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun 19th-century Arc del Triomf Universal Exhibition (see p46).
& pub hols. ¢ 1 Jan,1 May, 25 & 26 Three buildings survived: the
Dec. & 7 8 by appointment. - Governor’s Palace, now a
www.museudelaxocolata.com school; the chapel; and
the arsenal, which continues
Founded by Barcelona’s to be occupied by the
chocolate and pastry-makers Catalan parliament.
union, this museum takes you The park offers more
through the history of one of cultural and leisure activities
the most universally-loved than any other in the city and
foodstuffs: from the discovery is particularly popular on
of cocoa in South America Sunday afternoons when
to the invention of the people gather to play instru-
first chocolate machine in ments, dance and relax, or
Barcelona. This is done using visit the museums and zoo.
old posters, photographs and Parc de la A variety of works by Catalan
footage. The real thing is sculptors such as Marès,
displayed in a homage to the Ciutadella u Arnau, Carbonell, Clarà,
art of the mona. A Catalan Llimona, Gargallo, Dunyach
Avda del Marquès de l’Argentera.
invention, this was a tradition- and Fuxà, can be seen in
Map 6 D2.  Barceloneta, Ciutadella-
al easter cake that over the the park, alongside work
Vila Olímpica. # Oct–Mar: 8am–6pm
centuries evolved into an by modern artists such as
daily; Apr–Sep: 8am–8pm daily. 7
edible sculpture. Every year, Tàpies and Botero.
pastissiers compete for the This popular park has a boat- The gardens in the Plaça
most imaginative piece, deco- ing lake, orange groves and de Armes boast a triumphal
rating their chocolate versions parrots living in the palm trees. arch designed by architect
of well-known buildings or It was once the site of a mas- Josep Fontseré, with the
folk figures with jewels, feath- sive star-shaped citadel, built help of Antoni Gaudí, then
ers and other materials. for Felipe V between 1715 and still a young student.

Ornamental cascade in the Parc de la Ciutadella designed by Josep Fontseré and Antoni Gaudí
66 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museu de Ciències
Naturals (Edifici
Zoología) i
Passeig de Picasso. Map 5 C2.
Tel 93 319 69 12.  Arc de
Triomf or Jaume I. # 10am–6pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun.
& Free first Sun of month. 7
8 by appointment.

At the entrance to the Parc

de la Ciutadella is the fortress-
like Castell dels Tres Dragons
(Castle of the Three Dragons),
named after a play by Frederic
Soler that was popular at the
time it was built.
This crenellated brick edifice Children peering into an animal enclosure at the Parc Zoològic
was built by Lluís Domènech
i Montaner for the 1888 first public museum. Today,
Universal Exhibition. His Museu de Ciències the museum boasts a large
inspiration was Valencia’s Naturals (Edifici collection of fossils and
Gothic commodities exchange. minerals, including specimens
He later used the building as Geologia) o from Catalonia. Beside it is
a workshop for Modernista the Hivernacle, a glasshouse
Parc de la Ciutadella. Map 5 C3.
design, and it became a focus by Josep Amargós now used
Tel 93 319 68 95.  Arc de Triomf,
of the movement. Shortly for concerts, and the Umbra-
Jaume I. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
afterwards it housed the His- 10am–2:30pm Sun. ¢ 1 Jan,
cle, a brick and wood con-
tory Museum and it was not Good Fri, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec.
servatory by the park’s
& Free first Sun of month.
architect, Josep Fontseré.
8 by appointment.
Both date from 1884.

This landmark, Barcelona’s Parc Zoològic p

oldest museum, opened in
1882, the same year the Parc Parc de la Ciutadella. Map 6 D3.
de la Ciutadella became a Tel 93 225 67 80.  Ciutadella-
public space. The origin of Vila Olímpica. # Apr–Sep:
the museum goes back to the 10am–7:30pm daily; Oct–Mar:
Martorell Museum, founded in 10am–5pm daily. & 7
1878 to house the natural sci- www.zoobarcelona.com
ence and archaeological col-
lection bequeathed by This zoo was laid out in the
Francesc Martorell i Peña to 1940s to a relatively enlight-
the city of Barcelona. This ened design – the animals are
Neo-Classical building, separated by moats instead
One of the galleries inside the designed by architect Antoni of bars. Roig i Soler’s 1885
spacious Castell dels Tres Dragons Rovira i Trias, was the city’s sculpture by the entrance,

until 1910, when a fishing

exhibition was held here, that
specimens from the natural
sciences began to appear. In
1917 it became the Museum
of Catalonia, where flora, fauna
and geological collections
were displayed. It later housed
the Biology Museum and since
1937 it has been home to the
Zoological Museum, now the
city’s Museum of Natural
Science. Among the thousands
of specimens on display are
worms, starfish, sea urchins,
beetles and butterflies. Hivernacle glasshouse, Museu de Ciències Naturals (Edifici Geologia)
 O L D T O W N 67

there are twin 44-floor build- Barceloneta s

ings, Spain’s second and third
tallest skyscrapers, one Map 5 B5.  Barceloneta.
occupied by offices, the other
by the Arts hotel (see p135). Barcelona’s fishing “village”,
They stand beside the Port which lies on a triangular
Olímpic, which was also built tongue of land jutting into
for 1992. This has shops and the sea just below the city
nightclubs as well as two centre, is renowned for its
levels of restaurants around little restaurants and cafés. Its
the marina which have made it beach is also the closest to
a popular place to eat out. the city centre and is well
The wonderful outdoor equipped with lifeguards,
setting attracts business disabled access, showers
people at lunchtime and and play areas for children.
pleasure seekers in the eve- The area was designed in
nings and at weekends. 1753 by the architect and
Lunch can be walked off military engineer Juan Martín
along the string of beaches de Cermeño to rehouse
that is edged by a palm- people made homeless by the
Yachts at the Port Olímpic overlooked construction, just inland, of
by Barcelona’s tallest skyscrapers the Ciutadella fortress (see
p65). Since then it has housed
The Lady with the Umbrella largely workers and
(see p17), has become a fishermen. Laid out in a grid
symbol of Barcelona. system with narrow two- and
The zoo has pony rides, three-storey houses, in which
electric cars and a train for each room has a window on
children. Dolphin and whale the street, the area has a
shows are currently held friendly, intimate air.
here but the marine animals In the small Plaça de la
will move to the Zoo Marí Barceloneta, at the centre of
(Marine Zoo), not due for the district, is the Baroque
full completion until church of Sant Miguel del
summer 2015. Port, also by Cermeño. A
market is often held in the
Sandy, palm-fringed beach at square here.
Port Olímpic a Barcelona’s Port Olímpic Today, Barceloneta’s fishing
fleet is still based in the
Map 6 F4.  Ciutadella-Vila nearby Moll del Rellotge (the
Olímpica. fringed promenade with cafés. clock dock), by a small clock
Behind it, the coastal road tower. On the opposite side
The most dramatic rebuilding heads around a park that lies of this harbour is the Torre de
for the 1992 Olympics was beside the last three beaches, Sant Sebastià, terminus of the
the demolition of the old divided by rocky breakwaters. cable car that runs right
industrial waterfront and the Swimming is safe on the gen- across the port, via the World
laying out of 4 km (2 miles) tly sloping, sandy strands. Trade Centre, to Montjuïc.
of promenade and pristine
sandy beaches. At the heart of
the project was a 65-ha (160-
acre) new estate of 2,000
apartments and parks called
Nova Icària. The area is still
popularly known as the Vila
Olímpica because the build-
ings originally housed the
Olympic athletes.
The sole building of Barce-
lona’s Old Port still standing
is the former General Stores
building. The Stores were de-
signed in 1881 by the engineer
Maurici Garrán and were
intended for use as trading
depots. They were refurbished
in 1992 and today house the
Museu d’Història de Catalunya
(see pp68–9). On the sea front Fishing boat moored in Barceloneta harbour
68 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Maremàgnum shopping complex on the Moll d’Espanya, Port Vell

Port Vell d lease of life as the Palau de platforms ferry visitors

Mar. Restaurants provide alfres- through a glass tunnel under
Map 5 A4. co dining, but the building is an “ocean” of sharks, rays and
 Barceloneta, Drassanes. otherwise given over to the sunfish. A large hall of
Museu d’Història de Catalunya. activities for children includes
Barcelona’s marina is located an irregularly shaped tank of
at the foot of La Rambla, just rays built around an island
beyond the old customs which is reached through
house. This was built in crawl-through glass tunnels.
1902 at the Portal de la Pau,
the city’s former maritime Museu d’Història
entrance. To the south, the
Moll de Barcelona, with a de Catalunya g
new World Trade Centre,
Plaça Pau Vila 3. Map 5 A4.
serves as the passenger pier
 Barceloneta, Drassanes. Tel 93 225
for visiting liners. In front
47 00. # 10am–7pm Tue, Thu–Sat,
of the customs house, La
10am–8pm Wed, 10am–2:30pm
Rambla is connected to the
Sun & public hols. ¢ 25 & 26 Dec,
yacht clubs on the Moll
1 & 6 Jan. & except 1st Sun every
d’Espanya by a swing bridge
month. 7 8 noon & 1pm Sun &
and a pedestrian jetty, known
public hols. www.mhcat.net
as La Rambla de Mar. The Spectacular glass viewing tunnel
Moll d’Espanya boasts a at the aquarium, Port Vell
vast new shopping and This museum charts the history
restaurant complex known Aquarium f of Catalonia, from Lower
as the Maremàgnum. Also Palaeolithic times through to
on the Moll d’Espanya is Moll d’Espanya. Map 5 B4.  Barce- the region’s heydays as a
an IMAX cinema and one loneta, Drassanes. Tel 93 221 74 74. maritime power and industrial
of the largest aquariums # 9:30am–9pm daily (to 9:30pm pioneer. Second floor exhibits
in Europe. Sat, Sun & Jun, Sep; to 11pm Jul–Aug).
On the shore, the Moll de & 7 8 www.aquariumbcn.com
Fusta (Timber Wharf), with
terrace cafés, has red struc- Populated by over 11,000
tures inspired by the bridge organisms belonging to 450
at Arles painted by Van different species, Barcelona’s
Gogh. At the end of the aquarium is one of the biggest
wharf is El Cap de Barcelona in Europe. Occupying three
(Barcelona Head), a 20-m levels of a glass building, the
(66-ft) tall sculpture by Pop aquarium focusses particularly
artist Roy Lichtenstein. on the local Mediterranean
The attractive Sports Marina coast. Two nature reserves,
on the other side of the Moll for instance, the Delta del
d’Espanya was once lined with Ebro and the Medes isles off
warehouses. The only one left, the Costa Brava, are given a
built by Elies Rogent in the tank apiece. Tropical seas are Café-lined façade of the Museu
1880s, has been given a new also represented and moving d’Història de Catalunya
 O L D T O W N 69

include the Moorish invasion,

Romanesque architecture,
medieval monastic life and
the rise of Catalan seafaring.
Third floor exhibits cover the
industrial revolution and the
impact of steam power and
electricity on the economy.
There is also a glass floor laid
over a relief map of Catalonia
which visitors can walk over.
The first floor is reserved for
temporary exhibits. Some
captions are in English; pick
up a free guide for the rest.
A golondrina tour boat departing from the Portal de la Pau

A lift leads to a viewing plat- museum. These royal dry

form at the top of the monu- docks are the largest and most
ment. The bronze statue was complete surviving medieval
designed by Rafael Arché. complex of their kind in the
world. They were founded in
Golondrinas j the mid-13th century, when
dynastic marriages uniting the
Plaça del Portal de la Pau. kingdoms of Sicily and Aragón
Map 2 F5. Tel 93 442 31 06. meant that better maritime
 Drassanes. Departures: communications between the
variable (phone for details). & two became a priority. Three
Catamaran Orsom Tel 93 441 05 37. of the yards’ four original
www.lasgolondrinas.com corner towers survive.
Among the vessels to slip
Sightseeing trips around from the Drassanes’ vaulted
Barcelona’s harbour and to halls was the Real, flagship of
the Port Olímpic can be made Don Juan of Austria, who led
The Columbus Monument lit by on golondrinas (“swallows”) the Christian fleet to the
fireworks during La Mercè fiesta – small double-decker boats famous victory against the
that moor at Portal de la Turks at Lepanto in 1571. The
Monument a Pau in front of the Columbus highlight of the museum’s
Colom h Monument at the foot of
La Rambla.
collection is a full-scale replica
decorated in red and gold.
Plaça del Portal de la Pau. The half-hour harbour tours The Llibre del Consolat de
Map 2 F4. Tel 93 302 52 24. are on traditional wooden Mar, a book of nautical codes
 Drassanes. boats and go out beneath the and practice, is a reminder
# 9am–8:30pm daily. & castle-topped hill of Montjuïc that Catalonia was once the
towards the industrial port. arbiter of Mediterranean mari-
The Columbus monument There is also a one-and-a-half time law (see p43). There are
at the bottom of La Rambla hour trip on modern catama- Pre-Columbian maps, includ-
was designed by Gaietà rans that takes in Barcelona ing one from 1439 that was
Buigas for the 1888 Universal harbour, the local beaches used by Amerigo Vespucci.
Exhibition (see p46). At the and finally Port Olímpic.
time Catalans considered
that the great explorer
had been a Catalan rather Museu Marítim and
than Italian. Drassanes k
The 60-m (200-ft) monu-
ment marks the spot where Avinguda de les Drassanes.
Columbus stepped ashore in Map 2 F4. Tel 93 342 99 20. 
1493 after returning from his Drassanes. # 10am–8pm Mon–Sun.
voyage to the Caribbean, ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
bringing with him six Carib- audioguide available.
bean Indians. He was given a www.museumaritimbarcelona.org
state welcome by the Catholic
Monarchs in the Saló del The great galleys that were
Tinell of the Plaça del Rei (see instrumental in making
p56). The Indians’ subsequent Barcelona a major seafaring
conversion to Christianity is power were built in the sheds
commemorated in the of the Drassanes (shipyards) Stained-glass window in the
cathedral (see pp58–9). that now house the maritime Museu Marítim
 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A 71

EIXAMPLE

B arcelona claims to have the

greatest collection of Art
Nouveau buildings of any city
in Europe. The style, known in
Catalonia as Modernisme, flour-
this grid system include the Diago-
nal, a main avenue running from
the wealthy area of Pedralbes
down to the sea, and the Hospi-
tal de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
ished after 1854, when it was by Modernista architect Domènech
decided to tear down the medieval i Montaner (1850–1923). He hated
walls to allow the city to develop the grid system and deliberately
into what had previously been a angled the hospital to look down
construction-free military zone. the diagonal Avinguda de Gaudí
The designs of the civil engineer towards Antoni Gaudí’s church of
Ildefons Cerdà i Sunyer (1815– the Sagrada Família, the city’s
76) were chosen for the new most spectacular Modernista
expansion (eixample) inland. building (see pp80–3). The
These plans called for a rigid wealth of Barcelona’s com-
grid system of streets, but at Jesus of the Column,
Sagrada Família
mercial elite, and their passion
each intersection the corners for all things new, allowed
were chamfered to allow the build- them to give free rein to the age’s most
ings there to overlook the junctions innovative architects in designing their
or squares. The few exceptions to residences as well as public buildings.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries
GETTING THERE
Fundació Antoni Tàpies 3
Metro line 3 has stations at
Churches either end of the Passeig de
Sagrada Família pp80-3 7 Gràcia (Catalunya and Diago-
nal), and one in the middle, at
Modernista Buildings the Illa de la Discòrdia (Passeig
Casa Batlló 1 de Gràcia). Metro line 5 takes
Casa Milà, “La Pedrera” 4 you straight to the Sagrada
Casa Terrades, “Casa de Família and Hospital de Sant Pau
les Punxes” 5 (a long walk from other sights).
Hospital de la Santa
Creu i de Sant Pau 6
Illa de la Discòrdia 2 CAR RER DE
TAX DIR T
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Catalunya

Nativity façade of the Sagrada Família – the only façade to be more or less completed in Gaudí’s lifetime
72 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Quadrat d’Or

The hundred or so city blocks centring on the Diagonal
Metro
Passeig de Gràcia are known as the Quadrat
d’Or, “Golden Square”, because they contain
so many of the best Modernista buildings
(see pp24-5). This was the area within the
Eixample favoured by the wealthy
bourgeoisie, who embraced the new artistic
and architectural style with enthusiasm, not
Perfume only for their residences, but also for
bottle, Museu commercial buildings. Most remarkable is
del Perfum
the Mansana de la Discòrdia, a single block
with houses by Modernisme’s most illustrious exponents.
Many interiors can be visited by the public, revealing a
feast of stained glass, ceramics and ornamental ironwork.

Vinçon home decor

store (see p155)

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. Illa de la
Discòrdia
In this city block, three
of Barcelona’s most
famous Modernista houses
vie for attention. All were To Plaça de
created between 1900 and Catalunya Casa
1910. This ornate tower Batlló
graces the Casa Lleó Morera Casa Lleó Morera Passeig de
by Domènech i Montaner 2 Gràcia Metro
 E I X A M P L E 73

Palau Baró de
Quadras was designed
by Puig i Cadafalch in
1904 in a neo-Gothic EIXAMPLE
style. The ornate façade
is riddled with grotesque
sculptures including
this one, which adorns
the doorway.
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Casa Terrades “Les Punxes”

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ornamentation, this 1905 house by
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. Casa Milà
Gaudí put all his architectural daring into this, his
most famous house. The result is a remarkable
64E wave-like façade and a roofscape of chimneys
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. Casa Milà
76 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Casa Batlló 1

Unlike Gaudí’s other works, this block of flats, which

was commissioned by Josep Batlló i Casanovas on the
prestigious Passeig de Gràcia, involved the conversion
of an existing building. With its reworked façade in
stunning organic forms and its fantastic chimneys and
rooftop, it remains as bold and convention-defying
today as it did when it was finished in 1906. The
building has been said to symbolise the legend of St
George killing the dragon, whose scaly back arches
above the main façade. It was designated a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 2005.
View of façade and
. The Chimneys Dragon’s Back

Extraordinary
chimneys, usually the
unseen and functional
parts of a building,
have become Gaudí’s
trademark. These fine
examples are tightly-
packed and covered
in abstract patterns.

Patio and Rear Façade

This outdoor space at the back of
the house allows a view of the
rear façade which has cast iron
balconies and superbly colourful
trencadis work at the top.

Attics
The closely-packed
brick arches support-
ing the roof are plas-
tered and painted
white giving the
sensation of being
inside the skeleton Stairs to
of a large animal. main floor

Dining Room
The bulbous forms in
STAR SIGHTS the ceiling of the Battló
family’s dining room
. The Chimneys are thought to represent
the splash caused by a
. The Dragon’s Back drop of water.
. Main Drawing Room
Casa Milà
 E I X A M P L E 77

. The Dragon’s Back VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

One of the most extra-
ordinary innovations to Passeig de Gràcia 43.
the house is this steep, Map 3 A4. Tel 93 216 03 06.
 Passeig de Gràcia.
narrow, colourfully-
# 9am–8pm daily. & 9
tiled cap above the www.casabatllo.cat
façade which it is
difficult to see as any-
thing other than the
spine of a reptile.
Inside it is a white
domed room which
was used as a water
deposit.
Light-well The cross
The patio of the original The ceramic cross was
building was enlarged to made in Mallorca but was
provide maximum light. damaged in transit. Gaudí
liked the cracked effect
and refused to send it
back for repair. The arms
point to the four cardinal
points of the compass.

Dragon’s
belly
room

Façade
Salvador Dalí saw the
The iron
curving walls and windows
balconies
have been
as “representing waves on a
likened to stormy day”. The spindly,in-
masks in dividually shaped columns
carnival across the first floor windows
processions. were also compared to tibias,
Trencadis earning Casa Batlló the nick-
decorations name, “House of Bones”.

Entrance . Main Drawing Room

One side of this room is formed by
Fireplace room stained-glass windows looking out over
Josep Batlló’s former office the Passeig de Gràcia. The ceiling plaster
has a mushroom-shaped fire- is moulded into a spiral and the doors
place tiled in earthy colours. and window-frames undulate playfully.
78 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

stained-glass skylight can be

seen but the rest of the build-
ing, including the beautiful
wood-panelled library, is occu-
pied by the Institut Amatller
d’Art Hispànic. The third
house in the block is Antoni
Gaudí’s Casa Batlló (see
pp76–7) with its fluid façade
evoking marine or natural
forms. The bizarrely decorat-
ed chimneys became a trade-
mark of Gaudí’s later work.

Fundació Antoni
Tàpies 3
Carrer d’Aragó 255. Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 487 03 15.  Passeig de
Gràcia. # 10am–8pm Tue–Sun &
public hols. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26
Dec. & (free to under 16s). 8 by
appointment (93 207 58 62). 7
www.fundaciotapies.org

Antoni Tàpies (see p29), born

in 1923, is Barcelona’s best-
known living artist. Inspired
by Surrealism, his abstract
Sumptuous interior of the Casa Lleó Morera, Illa de la Discòrdia work is executed in a variety
of materials, including con-
Illa de la see the painted ceiling of the
hallway. Beyond the next two
crete and metal (see pp72–3).
Although perhaps difficult to
Discòrdia 2 houses is Casa Amatller, appreciate at first, the exhibits
designed by Puig i Cadafalch should help viewers obtain a
Passeig de Gràcia, between Carrer in 1898. Its façade, under a clearer perspective of Tàpies’
d’Aragó and Carrer del Consell de stepped gable roof, features a work. The collection is
Cent. Map 3 A4.  Passeig de harmonious blend of Moorish housed in Barcelona’s first
Gràcia. Institut Amatller d’Art and Gothic windows. The domestic building to be
Hispànic Tel 93 487 72 17. # ground floor of the house constructed with iron (1880),
10am–8:30pm daily. 8 noon contains a shop. The entrance designed by Domènech i
Mon–Fri (by appointment only). & patio, with its spiral columns, Montaner for his brother’s
and the staircase covered by a publishing firm.
Barcelona’s most famous group
of Modernista (see pp24–5)
buildings illustrates the wide ANTONI GAUDÍ (1852–1926)
range of styles used by the Born in Reus (Tarragona) into an artisan
movement’s architects. They lie family, Antoni Gaudí i Cornet was the
in an area known as the Illa leading exponent of Catalan Modernisme.
de la Discòrdia (Block of Dis- After a blacksmith’s apprenticeship, he
cord), after the startling visual studied at Barcelona’s School of
argument between them. The Architecture. Inspired by a nation-
three finest were remodelled alistic search for a romantic medi-
in the Modernista style from eval past, his work was supremely
existing houses early in the original. His first major achievement
20th century. No. 35 Passeig was the Casa Vicens (1888) at No. 24
de Gràcia is Casa Lleó Morera Carrer de les Carolines (see p26). But
(1902–6), the first residential his most celebrated building is the
work of Lluís Domènech i church of the Sagrada Família (see
Montaner. A shop was installed pp80–83), to which he devoted his
in the ground floor in 1943, life from 1914. When he had put all
but the Modernista interiors his money into the project, he went
upstairs, with their magnificent from house to house begging for more.
stained-glass bay windows, still He was killed by a tram in 1926.
exist. The house is not open
to the public, however, if the Decorated chimneypot, Casa Vicens
door is open it is possible to
Extraordinary sculptured and ceramic-encrusted chimneys of Gaudí’s Casa Milà
 E I X A M P L E 79

and gables are influenced in

particular by the Gothic archi-
tecture of northern Europe.
However, the deeply carved,
floral stone ornamentation of
the exterior, in combination
with red brick used as the
principal building material,
are typically Modernista.

Hospital de la
Santa Creu i de
Sant Pau 6
Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret
167, 08025 Barcelona. Map 4 F1.
Tel 93 177 652.  Hospital de Sant
Pau. Grounds # 10am–2pm daily.
7 8 daily at 10:15am and
12:15pm in English, call to arrange
The rippled façade of Gaudí’s apartment building, Casa Milà any other time. www.santpau.es

Casa Milà 4 Casa Terrades 5 Lluis Domènech i Montaner

began designing a new city
Passeig de Gràcia 92. Map 3 B3. Avinguda Diagonal 416. Map 3 B3. hospital in 1902. His innova-
Tel 90 240 09 73.  Diagonal.  Diagonal. ¢ to public. tive scheme consisted of 26
# Mar–Oct: 9am–8pm daily; attractive Mudéjar-style pavil-
Nov–Feb: 9am–6:30pm daily. This free-standing, six- ions set in large gardens, as
¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & sided apartment block by he believed that patients
http://obrasocial.caixacatalunya.es Modernista architect would recover better among
Josep Puig i Cadafalch fresh air and trees. All the
Usually called La Pedrera (the gets its nickname, Casa connecting corridors and
Stone Quarry), this is Gaudí’s de les Punxes (House service areas were hidden
greatest contribution to Barce- of the Points), from the underground. Also believ-
lona’s civic architecture, and his spires on its six corner ing art and colour to be
last work before he devoted turrets. It was built be- therapeutic, he decorated
himself entirely to the Sagrada tween 1903 and 1905 the pavilions profusely.
Família (see pp80–83). by converting The roofs were tiled
Built between 1906–10, La three existing with ceramics,
Pedrera departed from estab- houses on the and the reception
lished construction principles site and was pavilion has
and, as a result, was ridiculed Puig’s largest mosaic murals and
by Barcelona’s intellectuals. work. It is an sculptures by Pau
Gaudí designed this eight floor eclectic mixture Gargallo. After his
apartment block around two of medieval and death, the project
circular courtyards. It features Renaissance Spire on the main was completed in
the city’s first underground car styles. The towers tower, Casa Terrades 1930 by his son, Pere.
park. The ironwork balconies,
by Josep Maria Jujol, are like
seaweed against the wave-like
walls of white stone. There are
no straight walls anywhere in
the building.
The Milà family had an apart-
ment on the first floor, which
now features a typical Modern-
ista interior. The museum, “El
Espai Gaudí”, on the top floor,
includes models and explana-
tions of Gaudí’s work. From
here, visitors can access the
extraordinary roof. The sculp-
tured ducts and chimneys have
such a threatening appearance
they are known as espanta-
bruixes, or witch-scarers. Statue of the Virgin, Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
80 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Sagrada Família 7

Europe’s most unconventional church,

the Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada
Família, is an emblem of a city that likes
to think of itself as individualistic. Crammed
A carved with symbolism inspired by nature and striving
whelk for originality, it is the greatest work of Gaudí
(see pp24–5). In 1883, a year after work had
begun on a Neo-Gothic church on the site, the task of
completing it was given to Gaudí, who changed everything,
extemporizing as he went along. It became his life’s work
and he lived like a recluse on the site for 14 years. He is
buried in the crypt. At his death only one tower on the
Nativity façade had been completed, but work resumed Bell Towers
after the Civil War and several more have since been Eight of the 12 spires, one
finished to his original plans. Work continues today, for each apostle, have
financed by public subscription. been built. Each is topped
by Venetian mosaics.
THE FINISHED CHURCH
Gaudí’s initial ambitions have been kept
over the years, using various new
technologies to achieve his vision. Tower
Still to come is the with lift
central tower, which is
to be encircled by four
large towers represent-
ing the Evangelists. Four
towers on the Glory
(south) façade will
match the existing four
on the Passion (west)
and Nativity (east)
façades. An
ambulatory – like an
inside-out cloister – will
run round the outside of
the building.

The apse was the first

part of the church
Gaudí completed.
Stairs lead down
from here to the
crypt below.

The altar canopy,

designed by Gaudí,
is still waiting for
. Passion Façade the altar.
This bleak façade was completed
between 1986 and 2000 by artist
Josep Maria Subirachs. A contro-
versial work, its sculpted figures Main entrance
are angular and often sinister.
 E I X A M P L E 81

Spiral Staircases VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Steep stone steps –
370 in each staircase C/ Mallorca 401. Map 4 E3.
– allow visitors to Tel 93 208 0414.  Sagrada
descend from the Família. @ 19, 33, 34, 43, 44,
towers and upper 50, 51. # Apr–Sep: 9am–8pm;
galleries. Majestic Oct– Mar: 9am–6pm daily (25 &
views can be enjoyed 26 Dec, 1 & 6 Jan: 9am– 2pm).
from the top. 5 numerous services daily. &
8 7 except crypt & towers.
www.sagradafamilia.org

. Nativity Façade
Tower The most complete part of Gaudí’s
with lift
church, finished in 1930, has
doorways which represent Faith,
Hope and Charity. Scenes of the
Nativity and Christ’s childhood are
embellished with symbolism, such as
doves representing the congregation.

. Crypt
The crypt, where Gaudí is buried,
was begun by the original architect,
Francesc de Paula Villar i Lozano,
in 1882. This is where services are
held. On the lower floor a museum
traces the careers of both architects
and the church’s history.

Nave
In the nave, which is still under
construction, a forest of fluted
pillars will support four galleries
above the side aisles, while
skylights let in natural light.

STAR FEATURES
. Passion Façade
. Nativity Façade
. Crypt
82 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Passion Façade
It has been said that the Sagrada Família
is like a book in stone: meant to be read
in the same way as a medieval cathedral,
with each element representing a Biblical
event or aspect of Christian faith. This was
certainly Gaudí’s intent: his architecture was
Gargoyle on
inseparable from the profound Catholicism
Sagrada Família
which inspired it. The temple is dedicated Detail on brass door of the
to the Sagrada Família, the Holy Family. Passion façade
The two existing façades are detailed, visual accounts
of two key Bible passages. The Glory façade (yet to be top of a flight of three steps
built) will address the theme of judgement of sinners. representing the three days
of the Passion. Peter denying
Christ is indicated by the cock
that will crow 3 times in
fulfilment of Jesus’ prophecy.
Behind this group of figures
is a labyrinth, a metaphor for
the loneliness of Jesus’ path to
the cross.
The sculptural group on
the bottom right is in two
parts. First is Ecce Homo
(Christ bound with ropes and
crowned with thorns). Pilate,
overlooked by the Roman
eagle, is shown washing his
hands, freeing himself of
responsibility for Jesus’ death.
Above, the “Three Marys”
weep as Simon the Cyrene, a
passer-by, is compelled by
the Romans to pick up
Main entrance to the Passion façade Christ’s cross.

Christ’s Passion ear that Peter cut off. The kiss The Holy Shroud
The Passion façade depicts of betrayal by Judas follows. The central sculpture depicts
the sufferings and execution The numbers of the crypto- an event not described in the
of Jesus, and its style reflects gram to the side of Jesus add Bible but added to the story of
its subject matter. The statuary up to 33 in every direction: his the Passion by later tradition. A
by Catalan sculptor Josep Maria age at the time of his death. woman named Veronica holds
Subirachs has attracted much up her head cloth which she
criticism for its chunky, angular, The Flagellation has offered to Jesus to wipe
“dehumanised” carving but In the flagellation (between the blood and sweat from his
Gaudí would probably have the central doors) Jesus is face. It has been returned
approved. He is known to shown tied to a column at the impressed with his likeness.
have favoured an Expressionist Next comes the solitary
style to give the story of Christ’s figure of the Roman centurion
Passion maximum impact. on horseback piercing the side
A great porch whose roof of Jesus with his sword. Above
is held up by six inclined him, three soldiers beneath the
buttress-like swamp tree roots cross cast lots for Jesus’ tunic.
shades the 12 groups of The largest sculpture (top
sculptures, arranged in three centre) shows Christ hanging
tiers and to be viewed from from a horizontal cross. At
bottom to top, left to right in his feet is a skull referring to
an inverted “S”. The first scene, the place of the Crucifixion,
bottom left-hand corner, is the Golgotha. Above him is
Last Supper at which Jesus the veil of the Temple of
(standing) announces his Jerusalem. The final scene
impending betrayal. Next to is the burial of Jesus. The
this is the arrest in the Garden figure of Nicodemus, who
of Gethsemane. An olive is anointing the body, is
trunk’s grain mimics the shape Knights sculpture on the thought to be a self-portrait
of the high priest’s servant’s Passion façade of the sculptor Subirachs.
 E I X A M P L E 83

Nativity Façade
The northern, Nativity façade (overlooking Carrer Marina),
finished according to Gaudí’s personal instructions
before his death, is far more subdued than the Passion
façade. So much so that many of the sculptures barely
rise out of the surface of the wall, making them difficult
to identify. A great many natural forms are incorporated
into the work, confusing interpretation further. Gaudí
intended the whole work to be coloured but his wishes
are unlikely ever to be carried out.

Faith, Hope and Charity Faith Doorway

The lavish ornamentation of The Faith Doorway illustrates
the façade is arranged around passages from the gospels and
three doors dedicated to Hope Christian theology. The heart Detail of sculpture on
(left), Faith (right) and of Jesus can be seen set into Nativity façade
Charity or Christian the lintel above the
Love in the middle. door. The scene on set with an eye, showing
The two columns the lower left is the God’s omniscience and
between the door- Visitation by Mary to infinite care.
ways rest on a turtle Elizabeth, her cousin
and a tortoise and mother of John Charity Doorway
signifying the the Baptist. On the The double doors of the
permanence and Detail of a spire, right, Jesus wields a central Charity Doorway are
stability of Christianity. Nativity façade hammer and chisel in separated by a column record-
In contrast, the two his father’s workshop. ing Jesus’ genealogy. The three
chameleons on either extreme Above the door is Jesus in the magi are on the lower left of
of the façade, represent forces temple with John the Baptist the door with the shepherds
of change. The four angels on (left) and John’s father Zach- opposite them. Out of nativity
top of the columns are calling ariah (right). Higher up, the emerges the spiky tail of a
to the four winds and announ- baby Jesus is presented in the many-pointed star (or comet).
cing the proximity of the end temple, held by Simeon. As it Around it are a children’s
of the world. rises, the stonework forms an choir and musicians. Above
intricate pinnacle recording the star is the Annunciation
Hope Doorway the fundamentals of Catho- and the Coronation of the
The lowest carvings of the licism including a lamp with 3 Virgin Mary by Jesus. Above is
Hope Doorway show the wicks for the trinity, bunches a pelican sitting on a crown
Flight into Egypt (left) and the of grapes and ears of wheat next to a glass egg bearing
Slaughter of the Innocents for the Eucharist, and a hand the JHS anagram of Jesus.
(right). Above the door are
Joseph and the child Jesus
watched over by Mary’s
parents (Jesus’ grandparents),
St Ann and St Joachim. The
lintel of the door is composed
of a woodcutter’s two-
handled saw and various
other tools such as a hammer,
axe, square and mallet - all
indicative of Joseph’s pro-
fession as a craftsman. Further
above is a triangular grouping
showing the betrothal of Mary
and Joseph. The spire above
the doorway is in the form of
an elongated boulder which is
an allusion to the holy Catalan
mountain of Montserrat (see
pp122–3). At the base of this
boulder sits Joseph in a boat,
bearing a close resemblance
to Gaudí himself and is very
likely a posthumous homage
by the masons who put the
final touches to the façade
after the master’s death. The lavish Nativity façade entrance
 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A 85

MONTJUÏC
T he hill of Montjuïc, rising to
213 m (699 ft) above the com-
mercial port on the south side
of the city, is Barcelona’s biggest
recreation area. Its museums, art
The hill finally came into its own as
the site of the 1929 International Fair.
With great energy and flair, buildings
were erected all over the north side,
with the grand Avinguda de la Reina
galleries, gardens and nightclubs Maria Cristina, lined with huge
make it a popular place in the exhibition halls, leading into it
evenings as well as during the day. from the Plaça d’Espanya. In the
There was probably a Celt- middle of the avenue is the Font
Iberian settlement here before the Màgica (Magic Fountain), which is
Romans built a temple to Jupiter on regularly illuminated in colour.
their Mons Jovis, which may have Above it is the Palau Nacional,
given Montjuïc its name – though home of the city’s historic art collec-
another theory suggests that a tions. The Poble Espanyol is a crafts
Jewish cemetery on the hill inspired centre housed in copies of buildings
the name Mount of the Jews. from all over Spain. The last great
The absence of a water supply surge of building on Montjuïc was
meant that there were few build- for the 1992 Olympic Games, which
ings on Montjuïc until the castle Statue, gardens of left Barcelona with interna-
was erected on the top in 1640. the Palau Nacional tional-class sports facilities.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings Museums and Galleries
Castell de Montjuïc 7 Fundació Joan Miró 1
Museu Arqueològic 2
Modern Architecture
Museu Nacional d’Art de
Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc 8
Catalunya 3
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe 4
Squares
Plaça d’Espanya 6
A

Espanya
TIN

Theme Parks
ARIA E LA
CRIS

Poble Espanyol 5
D
REIN AVDA

A
V
AM

PLAÇA DE
IN

L'UNIVERS
G
U
D
ID A

AVIN
DE
RIU GUDA
GETTING THERE
LLE

S I TA
ULE
D

T
E
ANA

Apart from the exhibition halls

L
RDIA DE LA

PLAÇA DEL
PA S
DE

SEI MARQUES
URB

G D
E L DE LA FORONDA CA
near Espanya Metro station,
PA
GUA ARRER

ES RR
CAS
R

CAD ER PLAÇA DE
RRE

ES LAS NAVAS
L

DE
reaching Montjuïc’s attractions
.L

A
C

FR
CA

V
E

IN AN
L

G CA S
XI
RA
DA on foot involves a steep climb.
U

CA
CAR

DE
D
A

RR
ER
Buses 61 and 50 will take you
RER
CAR

CA
A
DE

up the hill from Plaça d’Espanya.

V
RER

IN
DE
MA

G
JULI

U
L'

For the castle, take the funicular

D'E

BLA

ST
D
GA
E

A
A

A
LCA
LH

DI
I

(9am–8pm daily in winter, to

AE

NO

PLAÇA R
ROSE
S

DEL SOL DEL Paral.lel

ÍMPIC

CAR
RER
LA RA MBLA
10pm in spring and summer)
NOU DE
from Metro Paral.lel, then the
D
CA

EL
OL

PLAÇA
PIQ
PA S

RRE

TORREFORTA
cable car (10am–6pm daily in
UE

PA S S EI G SE
RD

IG
R

PLAÇA
EV

DANTE DE
winter, to 7pm in spring
ILA

PA

MO
PA R C D E M O N T J U I C
I VIL

and to 9pm in summer).

A
N

L
. L
TJ

PLAÇA DE
A

AV
CARLOS IBAÑEZ
UI

IN
EL

G
C

U
D NER
PA S S E I G A CAR
D EL SEP
IA D E JO
MI GD EL
UI C EIG D
C TJ AM
AR PASS
AS T ON
ELL
D
E
M M
IR
KEY
DE
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M

RA
CA

R RE
TE
R A
L Street-by-Street map pp86-7
CA T O
L I

D E
L Metro station
C A MI DEL FA R
D A
R O N Cable car station

Funicular station
0 metres 500 Main bus stop

0 yards 500 Tourist information

Changing colours of the Font Màgica (Magic Fountain) on the grand avenue leading up to Montjuïc
86 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Montjuïc
Montjuïc is a spectacular vantage point Pavelló Mies van
from which to view the city. It has der Rohe
a wealth of art galleries and museums, as This elegant statue
well as theatres. Many of the buildings were by Georg Kolbe
designed for the 1929 International Exhibition, stands serenely in
and the 1992 Olympics were held on its the steel, glass, stone
southern slopes. Montjuïc is approached from and onyx pavilion
the Plaça d’Espanya between brick pillars built in the Bauhaus
based on the campanile of St Mark’s in style as the German
Venice. They give a foretaste of the contribution to the
eclecticism of building styles 1929 International
from the Palau Nacional, Exhibition 4
which houses magnificent
Romanesque art, to the A
VI
Poble Espanyol, which S
LA
N

illustrates the architecture IL

GU

OM
DA

of Spain’s regions. D C
EL E
MARQUÈS D

AVIN
GUDA
DELS
MON
TANY
ANS

PASSE
IG DE
LES C
ASC ADE

. Poble
Espanyol
Containing
replicas of build-
ings from many
regions of Spain, this
“village” provides a
A
V

fascinating glimpse of
IN
GU

vernacular styles 5
DA
DE
L
ES

A
T

D
. Museu Nacional I
d’Art de Catalunya To Montjuïc castle and
On show in the Palau Olympic stadium
Nacional (National
Palace), the main
building of the 1929 STAR SIGHTS
International Exhi- . Museu Nacional d’Art
bition, is Europe’s de Catalunya
finest collection of
Romanesque frescoes. . Poble Espanyol
These were a great
source of inspiration . Fundació Joan Miró
for Joan Miró 3
 M O N T J U I C 87

Fountains and cascades

descend in terraces from the
Palau Nacional. Below is the
Font Màgica (Magic Fountain), MONTJUIC OLD TOWN
whose jets are programmed
to a music and light show on
Thursday to Sunday evenings
from May to September, and
Fridays and Saturdays in
winter (except 7 Jan–mid Feb).
This marvel of engineering
was built by Carles Buigas LOCATOR MAP
(1898–1979) for the 1929 See Street Finder map 1
International Exhibition.

Museu Arqueològic
The museum displays
To Plaça d’Espanya important finds from
prehistoric cultures in
(+) Catalonia and the Balearic
*
+"
* Islands. The Dama
Museu Etnològic d’Evissa, a 4th-century
displays artifacts sculpture, was found in
from Oceania,
$

Ibiza’s Carthaginian
Africa, Asia and
necropolis 2
Latin America.
*
"



+

""

Mercat de les
,$



Flors theatre
(see p162) Teatre Lliure
((

& is a presti-
))
(

 gious Catalan
 theatre.


"

Teatre Grec is
)

an open-air
$

theatre set
*

#
 among
(% gardens.
$
&))") *#

&))

$
 . Fundació Joan Miró
This tapestry by Joan Miró
(%


hangs in the centre he created



) # for the study of modern art.

$*


In addition to Miró’s works

in various media, the
$

modern building by
Josep Lluís Sert is of
architectural interest 1
(

%$


,$+#(
#
(
To Montjuïc castle
and cable car
KEY
0 metres 100
Suggested route
0 yards 100
88 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museu Nacional
d’Art de
Catalunya 3
Parc de Montjuïc, Palau Nacional.
Map 1 A2. Tel 93 622 03 76. 
Espanya. @ PM, 55. # 10am–7pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun & public
hols. ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
(free 1st Sun of month). ^ 7 8 by
appointment (93 622 03 75). Audio
guides available. www.mnac.cat

The austere Palau Nacional

was built for the 1929 Inter-
national Exhibition, but since
1934, it has housed the city’s
most important art collection.
The museum has probably
the greatest display of Roman-
esque (see pp22–3) items in the
world, centred around a series
of magnificent 12th-century
frescoes. The most remarkable
are the wall paintings from
Sant Climent de Taüll and
La Seu d’Urgell (see p144).
There is also an expanding
Gothic collection. Notable art-
ists include the 15th-century
Spanish artists Lluís Dalmau
Flame in Space and Naked Woman (1932) by Joan Miró and Jaume Huguet (see p28).
Works by El Greco, Zurbarán
Fundació Joan building to house a permanent
collection of graphics, paint-
and Velázquez are displayed in
the Cambó Rooms in a collec-
Miró 1 ings, sculptures and tapestries tion of notable Baroque and
lit by natural light. Miró himself Renaissance pieces from across
Parc de Montjuïc. Map 1 B3. Tel 93
donated the works and some Europe. The museum houses
443 94 70.  Pl. Espanya, then bus
of the best pieces on display the entire body of 20th-century
50 or 55; or Paral.lel, then funicular
include his Barcelona Series art, furniture and sculpture
to Montjuïc. # Jul–Sep: 10am–8pm
(1939–44), a set of 50 black- previously at the Museu d’Art
Tue–Sat (till 9:30pm Thu); Oct– Jun:
and-white lithographs. Exhibi- Modern in the Parc de la Ciuta-
10am–7pm Tue–Sat (till 9:30pm Thu),
tions of other artists’ work are della. It also houses part of the
10am–2:30pm Sun & public hols.
also held regularly. Thyssen-Bornemisza collection,
¢ 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
with works by Tiepolo, Titian,
http://fundaciomiro-bcn.org
Museu Lotto, Canaletto and Velázquez.

Joan Miró (1893–1983) went Arqueològic 2

to La Llotja’s art school (see
Passeig Santa Madrona 39–41. Map
p63), but from 1919 spent
1 B3. Tel 93 423 21 49.  Espanya,
much time in Paris. Though
Poble Sec. # 9:30am–7pm Tue–Sat,
opposed to Franco, he
10am–2:30pm Sun & public hols.
returned to Spain in 1940 and
¢ 1 Jan, 25, 26 Dec. & except 11
lived mainly in Mallorca, where
Feb, 23 Apr, 18 May, 11 & 24 Sep.
he died. An admirer of Cata-
7 8 www.mac.es
lan art and Modernisme (see
p24–5), Miró remained a
Catalan painter (see p29) but Housed in the 1929 Palace
invented and developed a of Graphic Arts, the
Surrealistic style, with vivid museum has artifacts from
colours and fantastical forms. prehistory to the Visigothic
During the 1950s he concen- period (AD 415–711). High-
trated on ceramics. lights are finds from the Greco-
In 1975, after the return of Roman town of Empúries (see
democracy to Spain, his friend, p120), Hellenistic Mallorcan
the architect Josep Lluís Sert, and Visigothic jewellery and 12th-century Christ in Majesty,
designed this stark, white Iberian silver treasure. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
 M O N T J U I C 89

by 116 houses created by Castell de

many well-known architects
and artists of the time. The
Montjuïc 7
village was refurbished at Parc de Montjuïc. Map 1 B5. Tel 93
the end of the 1980s. 256 44 45.  Paral·lel, then funicular
Resident artisans produce & cable car. @ PM from Plaça
crafts including hand-blown Espanya. # 9am–7pm Tue–Sun
glass, ceramics Toledo dama- (until 9pm Apr–Sep).
scene and Catalan sandals
(espardenyes). The Torres At the summit of Montjuïc is a
de Ávila, which form the huge, 18th-century castle. The
main entrance, have been first was built in 1640, but des-
converted into a nightspot, troyed by Felipe V in 1705. The
with an interior by designers current star-shaped fortress was
Alfredo Arribas and Javier built for the Bourbon family.
Mariscal (see p19). There is During the War of Indepen-
plenty more to entertain visitors dence it was taken by French
including handicraft shops, troops. After the Civil War it
Morning by Georg Kolbe (1877– bars and a children’s theatre. became a prison where Cata-
1945), Pavelló Mies van der Rohe lan leader Lluís Companys (see
p47) was executed in 1940.
Pavelló Mies van Visitors can explore the ram-
parts and views. There is also
der Rohe 4 a Centre for Peace here.
Avinguda del Marquès de Comillas.
Map 1 B2. Tel 93 423 40 16.  Estadi Olímpic de
Espanya. @ 50. # 10am–8pm
daily. ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & free to
Montjuïc 8
under 18s. 8 5–7pm Wed & Fri (in Passeig Olímpic, S/N. Map 1 A3. Tel
English). www.miesbcn.com 93 426 20 89.  Espanya, Poble Sec.
@ 50, 61. # for concerts & football
If the simple lines of this glass matches. Museum # 10am–6pm
and polished stone pavilion Looking down from the Palau (to 8pm Apr–Sep) Tue–Sat, 10am–
look modern today, they must Nacional towards Plaça d’Espanya 3:30pm Sun. 7 8
have shocked visitors to the
1929 International Exhibition. Plaça d’Espanya 6 The original Neo-Classical
Designed by Ludwig Mies façade has been preserved
van der Rohe (1886–1969), Avinguda de la Gran Via de les Corts from the stadium built by
director of the Bauhaus Catalanes. Map 1 B1.  Espanya. Pere Domènech i Roura for the
school, it included his world Magic Fountain Music and Light 1936 Olympics, cancelled at
famous Barcelona Chair. Show # May–Sep: 9–11pm Thu– the onset of the Spanish Civil
The building was demolished Sun; Oct–Apr: 7–9pm Fri–Sat; every War. The arena’s capacity was
after the exhibition, but an half hour (except 7 Jan–mid-Feb). raised to 70,000 for the 1992
exact replica was built for Olympics. Next door is the
the centenary of his birth. The fountain in the middle of Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport
this junction, the site of public with interactive exhibits dedi-
gallows until they were moved cated to sport. Nearby are the
Poble Espanyol 5 to Ciutadella in 1715, is by steel-and-glass Palau Sant Jordi
Josep Maria Jujol, one of stadium by Japanese architect
Avinguda del Marquès de Comillas. Gaudí’s followers. The 1899 Arata Isozaki, and swimming
Map 1 A2. Tel 93 508 63 30. bullring to one side is by Font i pools by Ricard Bofill.
 Espanya. # 9am–8pm Mon, Carreras and has been convert-
9am–2pm Tue–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri, ed into Las Arenas, a spectacu-
9am–5pm Sat, 9am–midnight Sun. & lar shopping and entertainment
(free 24th Sep for the Fiesta Mayor). centre by Richard Rogers.
7 8 www.poble-espanyol.com On the Montjuïc side is the
Avinguda de la Reina Maria
The idea behind the Poble Cristina. This is flanked by two
Espanyol (Spanish Village) 47-m (154-ft) high brick cam-
was to illustrate and display paniles, modelled on the bell
local Spanish architectural towers of St Mark’s in Venice
styles and crafts. It was laid and built as the entrance way
out for the 1929 International to the 1929 International Exhi-
Exhibition, but has proved bition. The avenue leads up to
to be enduringly popular. Carles Buigas’s illuminated Font
Building styles from all Màgica (Magic Fountain) in Entrance to the Olympic Stadium,
over Spain are illustrated front of the Palau Nacional. refurbished in 1992
Altar frontal of the 13th century dedicated to the Virgin, Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A 93

FUR THER AFIELD

R adical redevelopments through- west, where the streets climb steeply,
out Barcelona in the late 1980s are the historic royal palace and
and 1990s have given it a
wealth of new buildings, parks
and squares. Sants, the city’s
monastery of Pedralbes, and
Gaudí’s Torre Bellesguard an
Park Güell. Beyond, the Serra
main station, was rebuilt and the de Collserola, the city’s closest
neighbouring Parc de l’Espanya rural area, is reached by two
Industrial and Parc de Joan Miró Park Güell funiculars. Tibidabo, the highest
gateway sign
were created containing futuris- point, has an amusement park,
tic sculpture and architecture. In the the Neo-Gothic church of the Sagrat Cor
east, close to the revitalized area of and a nearby steel-and-glass communi-
Poblenou, the city now has a new cations tower. It is a popular place
national theatre and concert hall. In the among barcelonins for a day out.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries Parks and Gardens KEY
CaixaForum w Parc de l’Espanya Industrial 2 Street-by-Street maps
CosmoCaixa 9 Park Güell 7
Museu del Futbol Club Parc de Joan Miró 1 Built-up area
Barcelona 3 Parc del Laberint d’Horta q Train station

Historic Buildings Squares and Districts Funicular station

Monestir de Pedralbes 5 Estació del Nord e
Motorway (highway)
Palau Reial de Pedralbes 4 Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes r
Torre Bellesguard 0 Poblenou t Major road

Minor road
Modern Buildings Theme Parks
Torre de Collserola 6 Tibidabo 8

SIGHTS 

6ALLVIDRERA 


OUTSIDE
#7

THE CITY 4IBIDABO

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The Neo-Gothic Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor dominating the summit of Tibidabo
94 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Parc de l’Espanya
Industrial 2
Plaça de Joan Peiró.  Sants-Estació.
This modern park, designed
by the Basque architect Luis
Peña Ganchegui, owes its
name to the textile mill that
used to stand on the 5-hectare
(12-acre) site.
Laid out in 1986 as part of
Barcelona’s policy to provide
more open spaces within the
city, the park has canals and a
rowing lake – with a Classical
statue of Neptune at its centre.
Tiers of steps rise around the
lake like an amphitheatre and Line of watchtowers in the Parc de
on one side a row of ten futur- l’Espanya Industrial
istic watchtowers dominates the
entire area. Their only function The stadium is a magnificent,
is to serve as public viewing sweeping structure, built in 1957
Dona i Ocell (1983) by Joan Miró in platforms and lamp standards. to a design by Francesc Mijans.
the Parc de Joan Miró Six contemporary sculptors An extension was added in
are represented in the park, 1982 and it can now comfort-
Parc de Joan Miró 1 among them Andrés Nagel, ably seat 100,000 fans.
whose enormous metal dragon The club’s popular museum
Carrer d’Aragó 1.  Tarragona. incorporates a children’s slide. displays club memorabilia and
trophies, and has a souvenir
Barcelona’s 19th-century shop. There are also paintings
slaughterhouse (escorxador)
Museu del Fútbol and sculptures of famous club
was transformed in the 1980s Club Barcelona 3 footballers commissioned for
into this unusual park, hence the Blaugrana Biennial, an
its alternative name, Parc de Avda de Arístides Maillol (7, 9). exhibition held in celebration
l’Escorxador. Tel 90 218 99 00.  Maria Cristina, of the club in 1985 and 1987,
It is constructed on two levels; Collblanc. # 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat and others donated by Catalan
the lower is devoted to football (to 8pm Apr–early Oct), 10am–2:30pm artists. Blau-grana (blue-bur-
pitches interspersed with land- Sun & public hols. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 gundy) are the colours of
scaped areas of palms, pines, Dec. & 7 8 of the stadium only Barça’s strip. The club’s flags
eucalyptus trees and flowers; (no tours on Champions League were used as an expression of
the upper level is completely match days and museum closes at local nationalist feelings when
paved and dominated by a 3pm). www.fcbarcelona.com the Catalan flag was banned
magnificent 1983 sculpture by during the Franco dictatorship.
the Catalan artist Joan Miró Camp Nou, Europe’s largest As well as hosting its own
(see p29) entitled Dona i Ocell football stadium, is home to the high-profile matches (mainly
(Woman and Bird). Standing city’s famous football club, Bar- at weekends), Camp Nou also
22 m (72 ft) high, its surface is celona FC (known as Barça). accommodates affiliated local
covered with colourful glazed Founded in 1899, it is one of soccer clubs and promotes
tiles. The park has several play the world’s richest soccer clubs, other sports in its sports centre,
areas for children. with some 100,000 members. ice rink and mini-stadium.

View across Camp Nou stadium, prestigious home of the Fútbol Club Barcelona
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 95

Palau Reial de But the nuns of the Order of

St Clare moved to an adjoin-
Pedralbes 4 ing building back in 1983,
when the building was
Avinguda Diagonal 686.  Palau
opened to the public. The
Reial. Museu de Ceràmica, Museu
monastery was founded in
de Arts Decoratives & Museu
1326 by Elisenda de Montcada
Téxtil i d’Indumentària Tel 93 256
de Piños, fourth wife of
34 65. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
Jaume II of Catalonia and
3pm Sun & public hols. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan,
Aragón. Her alabaster tomb
24 Jun, 25 & 26 Dec. & (free Sun
lies in the wall between the
from 3pm). 7 8 by appointment
church and the cloister. On
www.dhub-bcn.cat
the church side her effigy is
The Palace was once the main dressed in royal robes; on
house on the estate of Count the other, in a nun’s habit.
Eusebi Güell. In 1919 he The monastery is built
offered it to the Spanish royal around a spacious, three
family. The first visit was from storey cloister. The main rooms
Alfonso XIII in 1926. encircling the cloister include
Three fascinating museums a dormitory, a refectory, a
and the gardens are open to chapterhouse, an abbey and
the public. The Museu de Arts day cells. Numerous works of
Decoratives, opened in 1937, art, as well as liturgical orna-
displays period furniture and ments, pottery, furniture, altar
fine household items from the Madonna of Humility, Monestir de cloths and gold and silver
Middle Ages to the present. Santa Maria de Pedralbes work, are on display here.
A genealogical tree traces the The most important room in
500-year dynasty of the count- Monestir de the monastery is the Capella
kings of Barcelona (see p42). (chapel) de Sant Miquel, with
The Museu de Ceràmica has
Santa Maria de murals of the Passion and the
displays of old Catalan and Pedralbes 5 Life of the Virgin, both painted
Moorish pottery and modern by Ferrer Bassa in 1346.
ceramics, including works by Baixada del Monestir 9. Tel 93 203 92
Miró and Picasso. The perma- 08.  Reina Elisenda. # Oct–Mar:
nent collection of the Museu 10am–2pm Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm Sun;
Torre de
Téxtil i d’Indumentària moved Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am– Collserola 6
here in 2008 (temporary 8pm Sun. & (free Sun from 3pm).
exhibitions are still held in 8 by appointment (Tel 93 256 21 Carretera de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo.
Montcada street in the Born). 22). www.museuhistoria.bcn.es Tel 93 211 79 42.  Peu del
The gardens are laid out with Funicular, then Funicular de
small ponds and paths. Behind Approached through an arch Vallvidrera & bus 211. # check
them in Avinguda de Pedralbes in its ancient walls, the lovely the website or phone to confirm
is the entrance to the original monastery of Pedralbes retains opening times. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25
Güell estate. It is guarded by a the air of an enclosed com- Dec, 26 Dec, 31 Dec. & 7
black wrought-iron gate, its top munity. This is heightened by www.torredecollserola.com
forged into a great, open-jawed the good state of preservation
dragon, and two gate houses, of its furnished kitchens, In a city that enjoys thrills,
all by Gaudí (see pp24–5). cells, infirmary and refectory. the ultimate ride is offered
by the communications tower
near Tibidabo mountain (see
BARCELONA V REAL MADRID p98). A glass-sided lift swiftly
Més que un club is the motto of Barcelona FC: reaches the top of this 288-m
“More than a club”. It has above all, however, (944-ft) tall structure standing
been a symbol of the struggle of Catalan on the summit of a 445-m
nationalism against the central government in (1,460-ft) hill. The tower was
Madrid. To fail to win the league is one thing. designed by English architect
To come in behind Real Madrid is a Norman Foster for the 1992
complete disaster. Each season the Olympic Games. Needle-like
FC Barcelona big question is which of the two in form, it is a tubular steel
teams will win the title. Under the mast on a concrete pillar,
Franco regime in a memorable episode in 1941, anchored by 12 huge steel
Barça won 3–0 at home. At the return match in cables. There are 13 levels.
Madrid, the crowd was so hostile that the police The top one has an observa-
and referee “advised” Barça to prevent trouble. tory with a telescope and a
Demoralized by the intimidation, they lost 11–1. public viewing platform with
Loyalty is paramount: one Barça player who a 360° view of the city, the
left to join Real Madrid received death threats. Real Madrid sea and the mountain chain
on which Tibidabo sits.
96 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Park Güell 7

In 1910 the industrialist Eusebio Güell commissioned

Gaudí to lay out a private housing estate on a hillside
above Barcelona. The plan was to create a mini-
garden city with common amenities, leisure areas and
decorative structures, but only two of the houses were
ever built. What was left after the project fell through,
however, was one of the most original public spaces
ever conceived. The layout is loosely based on the
Sanctuary of Apollo at Delhi and Gaudí makes
ingenious use of the contours to create arcades and Hypostyle Hall
viaducts all of natural stone. The most striking features A total of 86 Classical columns –
of the park, however, are those covered with trencadis unusually conventional in style
– mosaics made up of broken tiles – which are largely for Gaudí’s work – support the
the work of the architect Josep Maria Jujol. weight of the square above. Set
into the ceiling are four mosaic
Hill of the Crosses representions of the sun.
A serpentine path leads up to this stone
tower from which there is a panoramic
view over the city from the port to the Güell
House
heights of Tibidabo and Collserola.

Entrance

. Double Staircase
Water trickles from the mouth of the park’s
emblematic multicoloured dragon that
presides over this monumental flight of
steps. Above is an ornamental brown tripod
and below another fountain, this time the
head of a snake.

. Entrance Pavilions
The two fairy-tale like gatehouses
have oval ground plans and intri-
cately tiled trencadis exteriors. Inside
are irregular rooms, odd shaped
windows and narrow staircases.
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 97

. The Square VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A serpentine bench
covered in trencadis Olot 7, Vallcarca. Tel 010 (from
Barcelona).  1.3 km (1 mile)
– the world’s first
walk from Lesseps, along a main
collage – curves road and uphill. @ 24. # Nov–
all the way around Feb: 10am–6pm; Mar & Oct:
the edge of this 10am–7pm; Apr & Sep: 10am–
square intended for 8pm; May–Aug: 10am–9pm;
markets and public daily. 7 Casa-Museu Gaudí
events. From here Tel 93 219 38 11. # Oct–Mar:
are impressive views 10am–6pm daily; Apr–Sep:
10am–8pm daily. & (combined
over Barcelona.
ticket with Sagrada Família).
www.sagradafamilia.org
The Trias house is one of only two
houses to have been built in the
would-be housing estate.

Upper Viaduct
This is one of three
viaducts that carry
snaking pathways
on the east side
of the park.

The perimeter wall follows

the contours around the
park. The Carretera El
Carmel entry is formed by
a swivelling section of wall
executed in wrought iron.
0 meters 40

0 yards 40

Casa Museu Gaudí

STAR SIGHTS This house, which Gaudí
lived in until he moved
. Entrance Pavilions to the Sagrada Família,
contains furniture designed
. Double Staircase
by the architect, including
. The Square benches and cupboards
from Casa Mila.
98 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

CosmoCaixa 9 coming of the railway. In

1900 Gaudí built the present
Teodor Roviralta 47–51. Tel 93 212 house on the site of the
60 50.  Avinguda del Tibidabo. castle, which had fallen badly
@ 17, 22, 58, 73. # 10am–8pm into ruin. Its castellated look
Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. and the elongated, Gothic-
& (free 1st Sun of month). 8 7 inspired windows refer clearly
www.cosmocaixa.com to the original castle. Gaudí
kept the vestiges of its walls in
Barcelona’s revamped science his structure. The roof, with a
museum is even more stimu- walkway behind the parapet, is
lating and interactive than its topped by a distinctive Gaudí
popular predecessor which tower. Ceramic fish mosaics
was housed in the Modernista by the main door symbolize
building that still stands on site. Catalonia’s past sea power.
Beside it now is a new wing
on nine levels, six of them are
underground. Its particular Parc del Laberint
Merry-go-round, Tibidabo boast is a glasshouse contain- d’Horta q
ing a recreated section of a
Tibidabo 8 flooded Amazon forest Germans Desvalls, Passeig Castanyers.
inhabited by fish, amphibians, Tel 010 (from Barcelona).  Mundet.
Plaça del Tibidabo 3–4. Tel 93 211 79 insects, reptiles, mammals,
42.  Avda Tibidabo, then Tramvia # 10am–6pm daily (winter); 10am–
birds and plant species. Other 9pm daily (summer). & (free Wed &
Blau & Funicular; or Peu del Funicular, exhibition spaces include the
then Funicular & bus 111; or Tibi Bus Sun). 7 www.bcn.es/parcsijardins
Matter Room, which takes a
from Plaça Catalunya. Amusement look at the big-bang theory, As its name suggests, the
Park # ring to confirm. ¢ a Geological Wall, which centrepiece of the city’s oldest
Oct–Apr: Mon–Fri. 7 Temple examines different types of public park, created in the
Expiatori del Sagrat Cor Tel 93 rock, and a planetarium. 18th century for Joan Antoni
417 56 86. # 10am–8pm daily. 7 Desvalls, Marqués de Llúpia i
www.tibidabo.es d’Alfarràs, is a cypress maze.
Torre Bellesguard 0 Even without this Horta would
The heights of Tibidabo can be an agreeable place.
be reached by Barcelona’s last Carrer de Bellesguard 16.  Avda The semi-wild garden
surviving tram. The name, in- del Tibidabo. ¢ closed to public. slopes steeply uphill from the
spired by Tibidabo’s views of entrance beside the marquis’
the city, comes from the Latin Bellesguard means “beautiful semi-derelict palace which now
tibi dabo (I shall give you) – spot” and here, halfway up houses a gardening school. It
a reference to the Temptation the Collserola hills, is the place is a veritable compendium of
of Christ when Satan took chosen by the medieval Catalan aristocratic Baroque fantasies.
Him up a mountain and kings as their summer home. Classical temples dedicated to
offered Him the world spread Their castle, built in 1408, Ariadne (who helped Theseus
at His feet. was in particular a favourite escape from the Minotaur’s
The hugely popular Parc residence of Barcelona’s Martí labyrinth) and Danae (mother
d’Atraccions (Amusement Park, the Humanist (see p57). of Perseus) stand at either
see p163) first opened in 1908. The surrounding district of side of a broad paseo, which
The rides were renovated in Sant Gervasi was developed oversees the maze. From here
the 1980s. While the old ones in the 19th century after the a monumental flight of steps
retain their charm, the newer leads up to a Neo-Classical
ones provide the latest in temple. Elsewhere there is a
vertiginous experiences. Their “romantic garden”, a faux
location at 517 m (1,696 ft) cemetery and, in the woodland
adds to the thrill. Also in the into which the garden eventu-
park is the Museu d’Autòmats, ally leads, a hermit’s cave.
displaying automated toys, juke
boxes and slot machines.
Tibidabo is crowned by the CaixaForum w
Temple Expiatori del Sagrat
Cor (Church of the Sacred Avinguda del Marquès de Comillas
Heart), built with religious zeal 6–8, Montjuïc. Tel 93 476 86 00. 
but little taste by Enric Sagnier Espanya. @ 13, 50. # 10am–8pm
between 1902 and 1911. A lift daily (to 10pm Sat). 8 7
takes you up to the feet of an
enormous figure of Christ. Barcelona is growing ever
Just a short bus ride away is stronger in the field of
another viewpoint – the Torre Wrought-iron entrance door at contemporary art and this
de Collserola (see p95). Antoni Gaudí’s Torre Bellesguard exhibition centre can only
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 99

Eixample’s planner Ildefons

Cerdà (see p71). On the north
side, a new shopping centre
contrasts with the Encants Vells
flea market (see p155), which
sprawls beside the highway
heading north out of town. It
is open 8am – 8pm four days a
week, and much of the merch-
andise of furniture, clothes,
and bric-à-brac is simply laid
out on the ground. It is
busiest early in the day and
Catalonia’s new National Theatre near the Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes bartering is all part of the fun.
To the south of the plaça
enhance its reputation further. has been remodelled as a is the new Teatre Nacional
The “la Caixa” Foundation’s sports centre, a police head- de Catalunya, a vast temple
collection of 700 works by quarters, and the city’s bus to culture by the Barcelona
Spanish and international station. Two elegant, blue-tiled architect Ricard Bofill.
artists, is housed in the Antiga sculptures, Espiral arbrada Beside it is the Auditori de
Fàbrica Casaramona, a restored (Branched Spiral) and Cel Barcelona, with two concert
textile mill in Modernista obert (Open Sky) by Beverley halls by Rafael Moneo that
style. The mill was built by Pepper (1992) sweep through were inaugurated in 1999.
Josep Puig i Cadafalch after the pleasant park. In front of The Museu de la Música is
he had completed the Casa the station, at Avinguda de located here.
de les Punxes. Opened in Vilanova 12, is a carefully
1911, it was intended to be a restored building occupied by
model factory – light, clean Catalonia’s power generating
and airy – but had only a short company. It was built as a
working life until the business power station in 1897 by the
closed down in 1920. The architect Pere Falqués. Though
building then became a store- the great machinery inside is
house and later, after the Civil not visible, the exterior of this
War, stables for police horses. iron and brick structure is
The collection is displayed unmistakably Modernista.
according to changing themes
but one permanent exhibit is
Joseph Beuys’ Espai de Dolor
Plaça de les
(Chamber of Pain). There are Glòries Catalanes r La Rambla del Poblenou, a good
also temporary exhibitions. place for a stroll and a cup of coffee
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes.
Map 4 F5.  Glòries. Poblenou t
Estació del Nord e
This whole area, where the Rambla del Poblenou.  Poblenou.
Avinguda de Vilanova. Map 6 D1. Diagonal crosses the Gran
 Arc de Triomf. Via de les Corts Catalanes, Poblenou is the trendy part of
continues to be redeveloped town where artists have built
Only the 1861 façade over- as the city expands northeast- their studios in the defunct
looking a park and the grand wards and the Diagonal is warehouses of the city’s former
1915 entrance remain of this extended down to the sea, industrial heartland. The area
former railway station. The rest completing the vision of the is centred on the Rambla del
Poblenou, a quiet avenue,
that extends from Avinguda
Diagonal down to the sea. Here
palm trees back a stretch of
sandy beach. A walk around
the quiet streets leading from
the Rambla will reveal a few
protected pieces of industrial
architecture, legacies from the
time Barcelona was known as
“the Manchester of Spain”.
Along the parallel Carrer del
Ferrocarril is the Plaça de Prim
with low, whitewashed houses
reminiscent of a small country
town. See pages 106–7 for a
Blue-tiled sculpture by Beverley Pepper, Parc de l’Estació del Nord guided walk through Poblenou.
 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A 101

THREE GUIDED WALKS

T here is no shortage of good
places to take a stroll in
Barcelona. Each of the
Street-by-Street maps in the book
(the Old Town, the Eixample
squares that host a busy nightlife.
The final walk is around the post-
industrial heartland of Poblenou
whose buildings are being
restored and put to new uses,
and Montjuïc) has a short and whose skyline is punc-
walk marked on it which tuated by a few surviving
takes in the well-known slender brick chimneys.
sights in the area. Other Trueta memorial, Each route avoids heavy
classic walks are down La Poblenou walk traffic as far as possible and
Rambla (see pp60–61) and around makes the most of quiet or pedestrian-
Park Güell (see pp96–7). The walks ized streets and squares. While there
described on the next six pages, how- are monuments to be seen along the
ever, take you to three less-explored way, the appeal here is as much
districts, each with a distinct flavour. in the atmosphere of the areas and the
The first walk is around the Born, unusual shops, characterful cafés and
once a run-down area to stay clear of architectural oddities encountered.
but now an appealing quarter mixing All three walks begin and end with a
old streets and fashionable shops. metro station. As in any big city, care
Next comes Gràcia, which could be should be taken with personal belong-
thought of as “village Barcelona”: a ings and although it is safe to walk at
proud working-class area of low-rise any time, be aware that the character of
houses, tiny boutiques and charming areas can change when the bars open.

CHOOSING A WALK

The Three Walks

This map shows the location of the three
guided walks in relation to the main
sightseeing areas of Barcelona.

Gracia
(pp104–5)

Santa Maria del Mar,

Born walk

&JYBNQMF
Poblenou
(pp106–7)

Market sweet shop,

Poblenou walk Born
(pp102–3)

0ME
5PXO
.POUKVÕD

0 kilometres 4

0 miles 2

KEY
Walk route

Plaça del Sol Café, Gràcia walk

102 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A One-Hour Walk Around the Born

The tiny district of El Born, across the Via Laietana left into Placeta de Montcada
from the Barrí Gotic, has made a comeback after long which becomes Carrer
years of neglect. Close to the waterfront, this area Montcada (see p64), an
flourished in Catalonia’s mercantile heyday from the immaculate collection of
13th century. The narrow streets still bear the names of Gothic mansions dating from
the 14th century with later
the craftsmen and guilds that set up here, for instance, Renaissance refurbishments.
hatters in Carrer dels Sombrerers, mirror-makers in Most of the buildings are now
Carrer dels Mirallers, silversmiths in Carrer de la museums and galleries. The
Argentaria. While it still has something of a medieval air, Casa Cervelló-Guidice at 25
El Born has become the hip and arty place to be. 6 is the only

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Much of the
TIPS FOR WALKERS right-hand
side of
Starting point: Plaça de l’Angel Montcada is
Length: 1.5 km (1 mile) taken up by five
Getting there: Go to Jaume I palaces including
metro station in the Plaça de the Museu Picasso
l’Angel on Line 4. 9 (see pp64).
Stopping off points: There are Opposite this are
many bars and eateries along the two more museums.
route including the Café del Born The first you come
(Plaça Comercial) and Origens to at 14 is the
99,9% (Carrer Vidrieria 6–8), a Museu Barbier-
Catalan restaurant and shop. Mueller 0, in the
You’ll find lots on Carrer de la Palau Nadal. This
Argenteria, notably Xocolateria collection of pre-
Xador (for hot chocolate; 61–3), Columbian
and Taller de Tapas (51). sculptures, fabrics,
Visitors flocking to the popular Museu Picasso 9 ceramics and ritual
 T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 103

into the arch at the start of

Carrer de l’Hostal de Sant
Antoni (on your right) r to
see an unusual hieroglyphic-
like frieze. Carrer Triangle
leads you into Carrer del Rec
and before long you meet the
Passeig del Born t. It was
the jousts held in this broad
avenue from the 13th to 17th
centuries that gave the name
to the Born quarter of which
it forms the heart. To the left,
the Passeig opens out into the
Plaça de Comercial, which is
Enjoying the café culture in Plaça de Comercial in front of Mercat del Born y dominated by the Mercat del
Born y, the former wholesale
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textiles or fashion. the Carrer de
0 yards 50 At the end of l’Anisadeta, which
KEY Montcada turn right is so short that it
along Carrer de la is over almost as
Walk route
Princesa, where soon as it is
Metro station you’ll find several Brunells chocolate shop w begun, and you
tempting shops. find yourself back
First you pass the windows of in the charming Plaça de
objects was assembled by the Brunells pastry shop at 22 w, Santa Maria i, facing the
great Swiss art collector, Josef then the turrón and sweet church of the same name (see
Mueller (1887–1977) with the shop of La Campana (founded pp64–5). Pop inside to admire
aid of his son-in-law Jean in 1890) at 36 e. the beautiful Catalan Gothic
Paul Barbier, who felt that interior. Bear left across the
“primitive” art deserved to be The Passeig del Born square to the start of Carrer de
more admired and appreciated. Take the next small street to la Argenteria, the busiest street
The courtyard is dominated the right, Carrer del Corretger, in El Born, lined with bars
by a reproduction of a giant which turns a sharp corner. and shops. Follow this back
Olmec head from Mexico. Turn right at the cake shop to your starting point at the
Just after is the temporary into Carrer Triangle. Look up metro in Plaça de l’Angel.
104 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A 90-Minute Walk Through Gràcia

When you cross the Avinguda Diagonal and plunge façade, Carrer Gràcia. Turn
into the maze of sinuous streets and small squares on left and quickly right down
the other side, it is easy to get the impression that you Carrer Domènech. Turn left at
have left the city behind and entered a village. Since the end up Carrer de Francisco
Gràcia became part of Barcelona in 1897 it has never Giner and this will lead you
into Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia
lost its sense of independence and identity. During the 5, where a 33-m (108-ft)
day, it feels calmly removed from the pace of modern clock tower is overlooked by
metropolitan life just a few blocks away. In August and the sky blue façade of
in the evening, however, expect a hullabaloo as the Gràcia’s local
district draws crowds to its exotic shops and nightlife. government

0
CA RR ER
CA RO LIDE LE S
NE S CA RR ER
DE
q

IA

LA
AC

T R IL
GR

ER
C
DE

RR
SA

DE
C BR

CA
ET ON D NT
E LO A
S HER RO
ROS SA

AN
GR
Fontana
CARRER DE

RER

TO NI
RAM BLA DEL PRA
T

CAR

SIA ST AN
DE BERGA

The façade of Casa Fuster, a Modernista building, now a hotel 3

TR AV ES
The Passeig de Gràcia clearly Neo-Gothic). The last CARRER DE SANT MARC CARRER
DE MONTSE
From Plaça Joan Carles I 1 work of architect Lluis NY
CARRER

ST JOAQUIM
the famous Passeig de Gràcia Domènech i Montaner, Casa
GRACIA

SERAFI

continues briefly as a modest, Fuster 3 has been converted

CARRE
plane tree-shaded avenue. On into a hotel. The Café Vienés Gràcia
200 metres /
R
DE
ROS
your left, almost immediately, on the ground floor is open
PERE

CARRER DE

180 yards
you come to Casa Bonaventura to non-residents. PLAÇA
DE LA
DEL

Ferrer 2, a Modernista LLIBERTAT

DE

C DE MASPONS
building by Pere Falqués I The squares of Gràcia
CARRER

Urpi, with stonework sculpted A few steps beyond Casa

into swirling leaves and a Fuster up the Passeig de
façade finished off with an Gràcia’s well-to-do TRAVESSERA
DE GRACIA
iron crown. A short way along, continuation, Gran de Gràcia,
GRAN

the road narrows to go round you can see the handsome CAR RER DE
ST DO ME NEC
another Modernista building stained-glass miradores
R

(although its inspiration is (upper-floor bay windows) 5

MARTI

PLAÇA DE
CARRER DE LA VILA
above La Colmena patisseria G O YA DE GRÀCIA
CARRER
C D

at 15 4. Then go back to
T PERE

TIPS FOR WALKERS

T
E

ZAR
LA

Casa Fuster and turn down

GINER
R IE

DE MO
R DE S

Starting point: Plaça Joan the road behind its rear

RA

CAR RER DE
JESU S
Carles I
D E S A N T MIQUEL

SCO
CARRER
CARRE

Length: 2.5 km (1.5 miles) 4

FRANCI

Getting there: Diagonal metro

GRACIA

C DE DO
station in Plaça Joan Carles I is on C GRACIA ME NE CH

Line 3 or reached by FCG train.

DE

3
DE BLA RER
NES

Stopping-off points: Most of

R

CARRER
C DE FE

Gràcia’s squares have bars and

DE

restaurants. Try Bo Restaurant

2 C A R R E R D E B O N AV I S TA
(tapas) in Plaça de la Vila de
PASSEIG

Gràcia; Café del Sol (drinks and

music) or Mirasol (classic bar) in
AV
Plaça de Sol; Niu Toc (fish) on IN
GU
Plaça Revolució de Setembre de DA

1868 or Virreina Bar (sandwiches CARRER 1 DDE CORSEGA

IA
and beer) in Plaça de la Virreina. A performance of castellers at GO
Diagonal NA
fiesta time in Gràcia 5 L
 T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 105

streets, and stroll along Carrer it across the top of Plaça

Xiquets de Valls, named after Diamant 9. This is where a
a renowned team of castellers. civil war air-raid shelter has
This brings you into the been discovered – now open
Plaça del Sol 6, a nightlife to the public by appointment
hub popularly known as (call 93 219 61 34). Turn right
Plaça dels Encants. Turn left up Carrer Torrent l’Olla and
to leave by Carrer Maspons. left down Santa Agata. When
Straight ahead, on the other you reach Gran de Gràcia
side of Carrer del Torrent l’Olla, cross over it into Carrer de les
is the Plaça Revolució de Carolines. At the bottom of
Setembre de 1868 7. The this street at 24 is one of
name commemorates the Antoni Gaudí’s early works,
coup d’état led by General Casa Vicens 0. It is privately
Nightlife at the Plaça del Sol 6 Prim, which unseated Spain’s owned but well worth admir-
ruling Bourbon dynasty, who ing from the outside.
were so antagonistic to the Commissioned as a summer
Catalans they ushered in the house by a brick and tile
first republican government in maker, it took the inexperi-
SA NTA AG
ATA
Spain’s history. Turn left into enced Gaudí five years to
the square and leave by build (1883–8). Inspired
TOPAZI
CARRER DE BADIA

RRENT I'OLLA

Carrer de Verdi that by Moorish architecture,

sprouts from the top of the house was a bold
DE

it. This is a busy but break with tradition

CARRER

pleasant street of and the lavish use

modern shops. of colour and orna-
CARRER DEL TO

After passing ment clearly indi-

ASTURIES CARRER DE
ASTURIES Cinemes Verdi cate where Gaudí’s
9 (on your right), interests lay. The
CARRER DE I'OR 8 which often exterior of the
CA RR ER
DE JA EN
shows original- house is a checker-
GUILLER IES

S
VERDI

IJO

version foreign board of green and

IRTUT

S TO RR

films, turn right white tiles and

I'OLLA
DE LA V

DE

down Carrer de Stained-glass windows other tiles with a

C DE LO

CARRER
CARRER

DE LA PERLA l’Or. You soon in miradores 4 marigold motif.

C DE LES
CARRER

arrive in one of The riotous iron-

TORRENT

CAR RER DE
VAL LFO GON
A
Gràcia’s most agreeable work shows off with extrava-
DE OLANO
CARRER DE
squares, the Plaça Virreina 8, gant loops and intriguing
TEROL
where the church of Sant beasts. Now retrace your
7 PLAÇA
PLAÇA
DEL

DEL SOL
Joan faces downhill towards steps to Gran de Gràcia. If
6
REVOLUCIO
DE SETEMBRE
DE 1858 two fine buildings: one is a you are in the mood for more
C DELS XIQUETS

NO

C DE RAM ON
residence with a tower and Gaudí, go uphill to Plaça
CARRER
DE VALLS

Y CAJA L
CA RRE R CA

the other a redbrick house in Lesseps and from there follow

Modernista style with a the signs to Park Güell (see
TRAVESSERA DE
GRACIA graphic red and cream façade pp96–7). If not, go downhill
and wrought iron balconies. past pretty Plaça Trilla q.
You can either finish the walk
0 metres 125 Casa Vincens at Fontana metro station or
Leave Virreina by the shady continue on back to your
0 yards 125 Carrer de Astúries and stay on starting point.
KEY
Walk route

Metro station

headquarters. A plaque on
the wall commemorates the
achievements of Catalonia’s
castellers, teams of amateur
gymnasts who can often be
seen building human towers
up to eight people high on
fiesta days in Gràcia. Cross
the square and leave by
Carrer Mariana Pineda. Cross
Travessera de Gràcia, one of
the district’s main shopping The interior and stained-glass windows at Casa Vicens 0
106 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A Two-hour Walk Through Poblenou

It’s hard to believe today but the trendy district of right) 6, a handsome
Poblenou once had the highest concentration of smoke- salmon-coloured building by
belching factories in Catalonia. By the 1960s these had Josep Masdeu dating from
gone out of business or moved to the outskirts, leaving 1914, which is decorated with
their old buildings to decay. With the 1992 Olympic Modernista floral motifs.
At the next junction with
Games came an impetus for recovery and since then Carrer Joncar, turn left
Poblenou’s warehouses have been spruced up and between El Tio Che 7, a
converted into chic studios for artists and photographers. well-known shop founded in
New developments brought hotels, discos and restaurants, 1912, selling ice cream and
creating a fascinating mix of industrial archaeology and turrón (a typical Spanish
contemporary culture. sweet made of almonds) and,
opposite it, the Casino de
l’Alliança de Poblenou 8, a
concert hall (not a gambling
enterprise as its name might
 suggest). Turn right at the

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which will lead you on to the After crossing Carrer de Pere
wide seaward extension of IV, the Rambla narrows and 
Avinguda Diagonal 2. This becomes more attractive. In the
takes you directly beneath a middle is a memorial to Doctor 

tall, unusual and much- Josep Trueta 5. This
criticised building that breaks pioneering surgeon was born 
up the city skyline, the Torre in Poblenou in 1897 and, after $ " 3 3 & 3

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TIPS FOR WALKERS in England on the fall of
democracy in 1939.
Starting point: Plaça de Les
Glories Catalanes Rambla del
Length: 3.5 km (2 miles) Poblenou
Getting there: Glòries metro Keep straight on
station is on metro line 1. down the Rambla
Stopping off points: There are over the next three
bars on Rambla de Poble Nou, circular road
swish restaurants on Carrer junctions. Along
Taulat and a few cheaper bars on the way are several
Carrer Maria Aguilo. Go for an buildings worth
ice cream at El Tio Che. stopping to look at,
such as 51 (on the Memorial to civil-war hero, Dr Josep Trueta 5
 T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 107

metro station. Otherwise, con-

tinue along Taulat, a strip of
gardens through modern resi-
dential developments.
A short detour to the corner
of Carrer de Ramon Turró
and Espronceda takes you to
a garden w dedicated to the
Indian social reformer and
philosopher Mahatma Gandhi,
with a sculpture of him by the
Nobel Peace Prize winner
Adolfo Pérez Esquivel.
Returning to Passeig del
El Tio Che, the renowned ice cream and turrón parlour 7 Taulat, ahead of you all the
while rises the most
first junction you come to who makes scale models of characteristic surviving
down Carrer Maria Aguilo, a monuments in Poblenou, industrial building in Poble-
lively but humanly-scaled both existing and demolished. nou, the Torre de les Aigües
pedestrianized shopping Cross over Carrer del Taulat e. Turn left into Carrer de la
street. On the left, up a short (the junction is slightly Selva to get to the base of this
street, is the district’s market, staggered) into Carrer del structure, which stands in the
the Mercat de la Unió 9. Ferrocarril and turn middle of Plaça
Beside it is a handsome left into the old Ramon Calsina. This
building, 24 Plaça de la Unió, square of Plaça del round, red-brick
with Art Nouveau white and Prim q. Here, tower, 63 m (207 ft)
green ceramic festoons you’ll see gnarled, high, was built to
draped over the windows. leaning, fat-rooted raise and store
On the right of Maria ombu trees (an water from the
Aguilo, at 120 0, is the Argentinian spe- nearby Besos river.
shop of the artist cies) and low Near the top of it is
Chema Vidal whitewashed hous- a vertigo-inducing
"7 es. Now somewhat metal staircase that
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were many followers of left along Carrer de Llull. On
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9 Taulat and turn right. If you Macosa steelworks. Return to
wish to end your walk Carrer de la Selva and end
1"44&*(

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$
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Bilbao to reach Poblenou metro stop.

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KEY
Walk route

Metro station
The unusual ombu trees in the village-like Plaça del Prim q
 C A T A L O N I A 109

C ATA L O N I A
LLEIDA ANDORRA • • GIRONA
BARCELONA PROVINCE • TARRAGONA

T
here is a wealth of natural beauty in Catalonia’s four
provinces, plus the small Catalan-speaking country of
Andorra. They offer rocky coasts and mountains, fertile
plains and sandy shores. Many who visit don’t stray far from the
coast, but the rewards for venturing further afield are immense.
Beyond the constant bustle of Barcelona province has its
Barcelona, Catalonia is essen- own coasts; the Maresme to
tially a rural region, with no the north is rather spoiled by
large cities and few industrial the railway running beside the
blights. Of the four provinces, sea, but the Garraf to the south
all named after their principal is more exciting – Sitges is a
city, Lleida is the largest and highly fashionable spot. Inland
least populated. Among its are the Holy Mountain of Mont-
jewels are the Romanesque Santa Maria, Ripoll serrat (Catalonia’s spiritual
churches of the Boí valley heart), the Penedès winelands,
and the Aigüestortes National Park. and the country town of Vic.
The province of Girona is blessed Tarragona, the most southerly of the
with mountains and sea. This eastern provinces, has one of the peninsula’s
end of the Pyrenees has the magical former Roman capitals. Here the land
Cerdanya valley and the ancient rolls more gently, supporting fruit and
monasteries of Ripoll and Sant Joan nut orchards and the monastic com-
de les Abadesses, as well as medieval munities of Poblet and Santes Creus,
villages and a handsome and too-often before falling away towards the rice
overlooked capital city. Its coast, the lands of the Ebre. The coastline is more
Costa Brava, is rocky and full of delights. gentle, too, with long, sandy beaches.

Aigüestortes y E. Sant Maurici National Park in the central Pyrenees, in the province of Lleida

A fisherman inspects his nets in Cadaqués on the Costa Brava

110 C A T A L O N I A

Exploring Catalonia
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 C A T A L O N I A 111

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seafront of Sitges

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Vineyards outside Gandesa, west of Tarragona

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Andorra 6 Figueres r Poblet pp126–7 g Tarragona x
Baqueira-Beret 3 Girona e Puigcerdà 8 Tortosa c
Besalú w Lleida f Ripoll 9 Tossa de Mar i
Blanes o Montblanc h Santes Creus j Vall d’Aran 1
Cadaqués t Montserrat pp122–3 p Sant Joan de les Vall de Boí 4
Cardona s Olot q Abadesses 0 Vic a
Costa Daurada z Parc Nacional La Seu d’Urgell 7 Vielha 2
Delta de l’Ebre v d’Aigüestortes 5 Sitges l Vilafranca del
Empúries y Peratallada u Solsona d Penedès k
112 C A T A L O N I A

The Vall d’Aran, surrounded by the snow-capped mountains of the Pyrenees

BUTTERFLIES OF THE
Vall d’Aran 1 Vielha 2
VALL D’ARAN Lleida N230. c Vielha. Lleida. * 2,000. c n Carrer
A huge variety of butter- n Vielha (973 64 06 88). Sarriulera 10 (973 64 01 10). ( Thu.
flies and moths is found _ Festa de Vielha (8 Sep), Feria de
high in the valleys and This valley of valleys – aran Vielha (8 Oct).
mountains of the Pyrenees. means valley – is a lovely
The isolated Vall d’Aran is 600-sq km (230-sq mile) haven Now a modern ski resort, the
the home of several unique of forests and meadows filled capital of the Vall d’Aran retains
and rare subspecies. The with flowers, surrounded by its medieval past. The Roman-
best time of the year in towering mountain peaks. esque church of Sant Miquel
which to see the butterflies The Vall d’Aran was formed has an octagonal bell tower
is between May and July. by the Riu Garona, which rises and a 12th-century crucifix, the
in the area and flows out to Mig Aran Christ. It formed part
France as the Garonne. With of a larger carving representing
no proper link to the outside the Descent from the Cross.
world until 1924, when a road The Museu de la Vall d’Aran is
was built over the Bonaigua devoted to Aranese culture.
Pass, the valley was cut off
from the rest of Spain for most E Museu de la Vall d’Aran
of the winter. Snow blocks the Carrer Major 26. Tel 973 64 18 15.
narrow pass from November # 10am–1pm (mid-Jun–mid-Sep
Chequered Skipper
(Carterocephalus palemon)
to April, but today access is only), 5–8pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm
easy through the Túnel de Sun. ¢ bank hols. &
Vielha from El Pont de Suert.
The fact that the Vall d’Aran
faces north means that it has
a climate similar to that on the
Atlantic coast. Many rare wild
flowers and butterflies flourish
in the perfect conditions that
Clouded Apollo are created by the shady slopes
(Parnassins mnemosyne) and damp breezes. It is also
a famous habitat for many
species of narcissus.
Tiny villages have grown up
beside the Riu Garona, often
around Romanesque churches,
notably at Bossòst, Salardú,
Escunhau and Arties. The
Grizzled Skipper (underside) valley is also ideal for outdoor
(Pyrgus malvae) sports such as skiing and is Mig Aran Christ (12th-century), Sant
popular with walkers. Miquel church, Vielha
 C A T A L O N I A 113

Baqueira-Beret 3 settlement of Espot, on the

park’s eastern edge, although
Lleida. * 100. c n Baqueira- you can access the park from
Beret (973 63 90 10). _ Romeria de Boí in the west. Around the
Nostra Senyora de Montgarri (2 Jul). park are waterfalls and some
150 lakes and tarns which, in
This extensive ski resort, one an earlier era, were scoured
of the best in Spain, is by glaciers to depths of up
popular with both the public to 50 m (164 ft).
and the Spanish royal family. The finest scenery is around
There is reliable winter snow Sant Maurici lake, which lies
cover and a choice of over 40 beneath the twin shards of
pistes at altitudes from 1,520 m the Serra dels Encantats,
to 2,470 m (4,987 ft to 8,104 ft). (Mountains of the Enchanted).
Baqueira and Beret were From here, there is a variety
separate mountain villages of walks, particularly along
before skiing became popular, The tall belfry of Sant Climent the string of lakes that leads
but they have now merged to church at Taüll in the Vall de Boí north to the towering peaks
form a single resort. The Ro- of Agulles d’Amitges. To the
mans took full advantage of south is the dramatic vista of
the thermal springs located
Parc Nacional Estany Negre, the highest and
here, which are nowadays d’Aigüestortes 5 deepest tarn in the park.
appreciated by tired skiers. Early summer in the lower
Lleida. £ La Pobla de Segur. c Pont valleys is marked by rhodo-
de Suert, La Pobla de Segur. n Boí dendrons, while later on wild
Vall de Boí 4 (973 69 61 89); Espot (973 62 40 36). lilies bloom in the forests of
fir, beech and silver birch.
Lleida N230. £ La Pobla de Segur. The pristine mountain scen- The park is also home to a
c Pont de Suert. n Barruera ery of Catalonia’s only variety of wildlife. Chamois
(973 69 40 00). www.vallboi.com national park is among the (also known as izards) live on
most spectacular to be seen the mountain screes and in
This small valley on the edge anywhere in the Pyrenees. the meadows, while beavers
of the Parc Nacional Established in 1955, the park and otters can be spotted by
d’Aigüestortes is dotted with covers an area of 102 sq km the lakes. Golden eagles nest
tiny villages, many of which (40 sq miles). Its full title is on mountain ledges, and
are built around magnificent Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes grouse and capercaillie are
Catalan Romanesque churches. i Estany de Sant Maurici, named found in the woods.
Dating from the 11th and after the lake (estany) of Sant During the summer the
12th centuries, these churches Maurici in the east and the park is popular with walkers,
are distinguished by their tall Aigüestortes (literally, twisted while in winter, the snow-
belfries, such as the six-storey waters) area in the west. The covered mountains are ideal
bell tower of the Església de main village is the mountain for cross-country skiing.
Santa Eulàlia at Erill-la-Vall.
The two churches at Taüll,
Sant Climent (see pp22–3)
and Santa Maria, have superb
frescoes. Between 1919 and
1923 the originals were taken
for safekeeping to the Museu
Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in
Barcelona (see p88). Replicas
now stand in their place. You
can climb the towers of Sant
Climent for superb views of
the surrounding countryside.
Other churches in the area
worth visiting include those at
Coll, for its fine ironwork,
Barruera, and Durro, which
has another massive bell tower.
At the head of the valley is
the hamlet of Caldes de Boí,
popular for its thermal springs
and ski facilities. It is also a
good base for exploring the
Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes,
the entrance to which is only
5 km (3 miles) from here. A crystal-clear stream, Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes
114 C A T A L O N I A

LES QUATRE BARRES rise to 2,900 m (9,500 ft),

Puigcerdà nevertheless has a
The four red bars on the senyera, the fine view down the beautiful
Catalan flag, are said to represent the Cerdanya valley.
four provinces: Barcelona, Girona, Puigcerdà was founded in
Lleida and Tarragona. The design 1177 by Alfons II as the
derives from a legend of Guifré el capital of Cerdanya, an import-
Pelós, first Count of Barcelona (see ant agricultural region, which
p42). It relates how he received a shares a past and its culture
call for help from Charles the Bald, with the French Cerdagne. The
who was King of the West Franks and Spanish enclave of Llívia, an
Catalonia’s grandson of Charlemagne. Guifré went to attractive little town with a
national emblem his aid and turned the tide of battle, but medieval pharmacy, lies 6 km
was mortally wounded. As he lay dying, (3.75 miles) inside France.
Charles dipped his fingers in Guifré’s blood and dragged Cerdanya is the largest
them across his plain gold shield, giving him a grant of arms. valley in the Pyrenees. At
its edge is the Cadí-Moixeró
nature reserve (see p170), a
Andorra 6 La Seu d’Urgell 7 place for ambitious walks.

Principality of Andorra. * 77,000. Lleida. * 13,000. c n Avenida

c Andorra la Vella. n Plaça de la Valles de Andorra 33 (973 35 15 11).
Rotonda, Andorra la Vella (376 87 31 ( Tue & Sat. _ Festa major (last
03). www.andorra.ad week of Aug). www.turismeseu.com

Andorra occupies 464 sq km This Pyrenean town was made

(179 sq miles) of the Pyrenees a bishopric in the 6th century.
between France and Spain. In Feuds between the bishops of
1993, it became fully Urgell and the Counts of Foix
independent and held its first over land, gave rise to
ever democratic elections. Andorra in the 13th century.
Since 1278, it had been an The cathedral has a Roman-
autonomous feudal state under esque statue of Santa Maria
the jurisdiction of the Spanish d’Urgell. The Museu Diocesà Portal of Monestir de Santa Maria
bishop of La Seu d’Urgell and contains a 10th-century copy
the French Count of Foix (a of St Beatus of Liébana’s Com- Ripoll 9
title adopted by the President mentary on the Apocalypse.
of France). These are still the Girona. * 11,000. £ c n Plaça
ceremonial joint heads of state. E Museu Diocesà del Abat Oliba (972 70 23 51). ( Sat.
Andorra’s official language Plaça del Deganat. Tel 973 35 32 _ Festa major (11–12 May), La
is Catalan, though French and 42. # 10am–1pm, 4–7pm Llana y Casament a Pagès (Sun after
Mon–Sat (to 6pm Oct–May),
Castilian are also spoken by Festa major). www.elripolles.com
10am–1pm Sun. ¢ 1 Jan,
most residents. 25 Dec & public hols. & 7
For many years Andorra has Once a tiny mountain base
been a tax-free paradise for from which raids against the
shoppers, a fact reflected in Moors were made, Ripoll is
the crowded shops and super- now best known for the Mone-
markets of the capital Andorra stir de Santa Maria (see p22),
la Vella. Les Escaldes (near the founded in 879. The town is
capital), as well as Sant Julià de called the “cradle of Catalonia”
Lòria and El Pas de la Casa as the monastery was the
(the towns nearest the Spanish power base of Guifré el Pelós
and French borders), have also (Wilfred the Hairy), founder of
become shopping centres. Carving, La Seu d’Urgell cathedral the House of Barcelona (see
Most visitors never see p42). He is also buried here. In
Andorra’s rural charms, which the later 12th century, the west
match those of other parts of Puigcerdà 8 portal was decorated with what
the Pyrenees. The region is are regarded as the finest
excellent for walkers. One of Girona. * 9,000. £ c n Romanesque carvings in Spain.
the main routes leads to the Carrer Querol 1 (972 88 05 42). ( This and the cloister are the
Cercle de Pessons, a bowl of Sun. _ Festa de l’Estany (third Sun only parts of the medieval
lakes in the east, and past of Aug); Festa del Roser (mid-Jul). monastery to have survived.
Romanesque chapels such as www.puigcerda.com
Sant Martí at La Cortinada. In Environs
the north is the picturesque Puig is Catalan for hill. Despite In the mountains to the west
Sorteny valley where traditional sitting on a relatively small is Sant Jaume de Frontanyà
farmhouses have been con- hill compared with the (see p22), another superb
verted into snug restaurants. encircling mountains, which Romanesque church.
 C A T A L O N I A 115

The medieval town of Besalú on the banks of the Riu Fluvià

Sant Joan de les Environs Besalú w

To the north are Camprodon
Abadesses 0 and Beget, both with Girona. * 2,000. c n Plaça de
Romanesque churches (see la Llibertat 1 (972 59 12 40). ( Tue.
Girona. * 3,600. c n Plaça de p23). Camprodon also has _ Sant Vicenç (22 Jan), Festa major
Abadia 9 (972 72 05 99). ( Sun. _ some grand houses, and its (weekend closest to 25 Sep). 8
Festa major (second week of Sep). 8 region is noted for sausages. www.besalu.cat
www.santjoandelesabadesses.cat
Olot q A magnificent medieval town,
A fine, 12th-century Gothic with a striking approach
bridge arches over the Riu Girona. * 30,000. c n Carrer across a fortified bridge over
Ter to this unassuming market Hospici 8 (972 26 01 41). ( Mon. the Riu Fluvià, Besalú has two
town, whose main attraction _ Feria de mayo (1 May), Corpus fine Romanesque churches:
is its monastery. Christi (Jun), Festa del Tura (8 Sep), Sant Vicenç and Sant Pere
Founded in 885, it was a Feria de Sant Lluc (18 Oct). (see p23). The latter is the
gift from Guifré, first count of www.turismeolot.cat sole remnant of a Benedictine
Barcelona, to his daughter, monastery founded in 977,
the first abbess. The church This small market town is at but pulled down in 1835.
has little decoration except the centre of a landscape In 1964 a mikvah, a Jewish
for a wooden calvary, The pockmarked with extinct ritual bath, was discovered by
Descent from the Cross. Though volcanoes. But it was an chance. It was built in 1264
made in 1150, it looks modern. earthquake in 1474 that and is one of only three of that
The figure of a thief on the destroyed its medieval past. period to survive in Europe.
left was burnt in the Civil War During the 18th century the The tourist office has the keys
and replaced so skilfully that town’s textile industry spawned to all the town’s attractions.
it is hard to tell it is new. The the “Olot School” of art (see To the south, the sky-blue
museum has Baroque and p28): cotton fabrics were print- lake of Banyoles, where the
Renaissance altarpieces. ed with drawings. In 1783 the 1992 Olympic rowing contests
Public School of Drawing was were held, is ideal for picnics.
founded. Much of the school’s
work, which includes paintings
such as Joaquim Vayreda’s Les
Falgueres, is in the Museu
Comarcal de la Garrotxa. Mod-
ernista sculptor Miquel Blay’s
damsels support the balcony
at No. 38 Passeig Miquel Blay.

E Museu Comarcal
de la Garrotxa
Carrer Hospici 8. Tel 972 27 11 66.
# Sep–May: 10am–1pm, 3–6pm
Mon–Fri; Jun–Aug: 11am–2pm, 4–
7pm Mon–Fri; all year: 11am–2pm &
12th-century calvary, Sant Joan de Shop selling llonganisses in the
4–7pm Sat, 11am–2pm Sun. & 7
les Abadesses monastery mountain town of Camprodon
116 C A T A L O N I A

PALAMOS

GIRONA TOWN CENTRE PLAÇA

SANT
Banys Arabs 2 PERE
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1km (0.5 mile) Sant
Augusti
PLAÇA
Key to Symbols see back flap INDEPENDENCIA
Oficina de Tourisme
(Oficina de Tourismo)
300m (330 yards)

Girona e intact and have been turned century, was built over the
into the Passeig Arqueològic tombs of St Felix and St
Girona. * 96,000. k £ c n (Archaeological Walk), which Narcissus, both patrons of the
Rambla de la Llibertat 1 (972 22 65 75). runs right round the city. city. Next to the high altar are
( Tue, Sat. _ Sant Narcís (29 Oct The walk’s starting point is eight Roman sarcophagi.
for a week). www.girona.cat/turisme on the north side of the town, Despite their name, the
near the Església de Sant Pere nearby Banys Àrabs (Arab
This handsome town puts on de Galligants (St Peter of the Baths) were built in the late
its best face beside the Riu Cock Crows) (see p23). The 12th century, about 300 years
Onyar, where tall, pastel- church now houses the city’s after the Moors had left.
coloured buildings rise above archaeological collection.
the water. Behind them, in the From here, a narrow street E Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta
old town, the Rambla de la goes through the north gate, Carrer de la Força 8. Tel 972 21 67
Llibertat is lined with busy where huge Roman foundation 61. # 10am–2pm Mon (to 8pm Jul–
shops and street cafés. stones are still visible. They Aug), 10am–6pm Tue–Sat (to 8pm
The houses were built in the mark the route of the Via Jul–Aug), 10am–2pm Sun. ¢ 1 & 6
19th century to replace sec- Augusta, the road which once Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
tions of the city wall damaged ran from Tarragona to Rome. This centre charts the history
during a seven-month siege The most popular place of of Jews in Girona. The
by French troops in 1809. Most devotion in the town is the buildings it occupies in the
of the rest of the ramparts, first Església de Sant Feliu. The maze of alleyways and steps
raised by the Romans, are still church, begun in the 14th in the old town were once
part of El Call, the Jewish
ghetto, which was inhabited
by the city’s Jews from the
late 9th century until their
expulsion from Spain in 1492.

R Catedral
# Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–7pm daily. &
Girona Cathedral’s west face is
pure Catalan Baroque, but the
rest of the building is Gothic.
The single nave, built in 1416
by Guillem Bofill, possesses
the widest Gothic span in the
Christian world. Behind the
altar is a marble throne known
Painted houses packed tightly along the bank of the Riu Onyar in Girona as “Charlemagne’s Chair”. It is
 C A T A L O N I A 117

named after the Frankish king Figueres r

whose troops took Girona in
785. In the chancel is a 14th- Girona. * 44,000. £ c n Plaça
century jewel-encrusted silver del Sol (972 50 31 55). ( Thu. _
and enamel altarpiece, the best Santa Creu (3 May), Sant Pere (29 Jun).
example in Catalonia. Among www.figueresciutat.com
the fine Romanesque paintings
and statues in the cathedral’s Figueres is the market town
museum are a 10th-century of the Empordà plain. Beside
illuminated copy of St Beatus the plane-tree-shaded Rambla
of Liébana’s Commentary on is the former Hotel de Paris,
the Apocalypse, and a 14th- now home to the Museu del
century statue of the Catalan Joguet (Toy Museum). At the
king, Pere the Ceremonious. bottom of the Rambla is a
The collection’s 11th- to 12th- statue of Narcís Monturiol i
century tapestry, The Creation, Estarriol (1819–95) who, it is
is decorated with lively figures. said, invented the submarine.
The rich colours of this large Figueres was the birthplace
work are well preserved. of Salvador Dalí, who in 1974 Rainy Taxi, a monument in the
turned the town theatre into garden of the Teatre-Museu Dalí
the Teatre-Museu Dalí. Under
its glass dome are works by E Museu del Joguet
Dalí and other painters. The C/ Sant Pere 1. Tel 972 50 45 85.
museum is a monument to Cat- # Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May: Tue–
alonia’s most eccentric artist. Sun. & 7 www.mjc.cat
E Teatre-Museu Dalí
Environs Pl Gala-Salvador Dalí 5. Tel 972 67
The Casa-Museu Castell Gala 75 00. # Jul–Sep: daily; Oct–Jun:
Dalí, 55 km (35 miles) south Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8
of Figueres, is the medieval by appt. www.salvador-dali.org
castle Dalí bought in the 1970s. E Casa-Museu Castell
It contains some of his Gala Dalí
Tapestry of The Creation paintings. East of Figueres is C/ Gala Dalí, Púbol (La Pera).
the Romanesque monastery, Tel 972 48 86 55. # mid-
E Museu d’Art Sant Pere de Rodes (see p23). Mar–Dec: Tue–Sun (mid-Jun–
mid-Sep: daily). & 7
Pujada de la Catedral 12. Tel 972
20 38 34. # 10am–7pm (to 6pm
Oct–Feb) Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun.
¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7 THE ART OF DALÍ
This gallery holds works from Salvador Dalí i Domènech was born in
the Romanesque period to the Figueres in 1904 and mounted his first
20th century. The many items exhibition at the age of 15. After
from churches ruined by war studying at the Escuela de Bellas
or neglect tell of the richness Artes in Madrid, and dabbling with
of church interiors long ago. Cubism, Futurism and Metaphysical
painting, the young artist embraced
E Museu del Cinema Surrealism in 1929, becoming the
Carrer Sèquia 1. Tel 972 41 27 77. movement’s best-known painter.
# Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 &26 Never far from controversy, the self-publicist Dalí became
Dec. & 8 7 famous for his hallucinatory images – such as Woman-
Next to Església de Mercadel, Animal Symbiosis – which he described as “hand-painted
this collection includes film dream photographs”. Dalí’s career also included writing and
and artifacts from the mid-19th film-making, and established him as one of the 20th
century to the present day. century’s greatest artists. He died in his home town in 1989.

E Museu d’Història
de la Ciutat
Carrer de la Força 27. Tel 972 22
22 29. # Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan,
25 & 26 Dec. & 7
The city’s history museum is
in an 18th-century former
convent. Recesses where the
decomposing bodies of mem-
bers of the Capuchin Order
were placed can still be seen.
Exhibits include old sardana Ceiling fresco in the Wind Palace Room, Teatre-Museu Dalí
(see p129) instruments.
120 C A T A L O N I A

Cadaqués t
Girona. * 3,000. c n Carrer
Cotxe 2 (972 25 83 15). ( Mon.
_ Fiesta major de Verano (first week
of Sep), Santa Esperança (18 Dec).

This pretty resort is over-

looked by the Baroque
Església de Santa Maria. In
the 1960s it was dubbed the
“St Tropez of Spain”, due to
the young crowd that sought
out Salvador Dalí in nearby
Port Lligat. For six months of
the year, from 1930 until his
death in 1989, Dalí lived here.
Today the much modified Looking south along the Costa Brava from Tossa de Mar
house, which expanded far
beyond the original fisher- The old town was founded Tossa de Mar i
man’s cabin, is known as the by the Greeks in 600 BC as a
Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. trading port. It was built on Girona. * 6,000. c n Avinguda
Managed by the Gala-Salvador what was a small island, and is Pelegrí 25 (972 34 01 08). ( Thu.
Dalí Foundation, the museum now the site of the tiny hamlet _ Festa Major d’Estin (22 Jan),
provides a unique interpreta- of Sant Martí de Empúries. In Festa Major d’Hivern (29 Jun).
tion of the artist’s life. 550 BC this was replaced by a www.infotossa.com
larger new town on the shore
E Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí which the Greeks named At the end of a tortuous cor-
Port Lligat. Tel 972 25 10 15. Emporion, meaning “trading niche, the Roman town of
# booking required.
place”. In 218 BC, the Romans Turissa is one of the prettiest
¢ 1 Jan, 7 Jan–8 Feb, 25 Dec.
& www.salvador-dali.org
landed at Empúries and built along the Costa Brava. Above
a city next to the new town. the modern town is the Vila
A nearby museum exhibits Vella (old town), a protected
some of the site’s finds, but national monument. The
Empúries y the best are in Barcelona’s medieval walls enclose fisher-
Museu Arqueològic (see p88). men’s cottages, a 14th-century
Girona. c L’Escala. Tel 972 77 02 08. church and countless bars.
# Easter, Jun–Sep: 10am–8pm daily; The Museu Municipal in
Oct–May: 10am–6pm daily. & ruins. Peratallada u the old town exhibits local
8 by appointment. www.mac.cat archaeology and modern art.
Girona. * 400. n C/Unió 3, Ajun-
The extensive ruins of this tament de Forallac, Vulpellac (972 64 E Museu Municipal
Greco-Roman town (see p41) 55 22). _ Herbs Fra Peratallada (last Plaça Roig y Soler 1. Tel 972 34
occupy an imposing site be- weekend in Apr), Festa Major (6 & 7 07 09. # Tue–Sun. &
side the sea. Three separate Aug), Medieval Market (first weekend
settlements were built between in Oct). www.forallac.com
the 7th and 3rd centuries BC: Blanes o
the old town (Palaiapolis); the This tiny village is the most
new town (Neapolis); and the spectacular of the many that Girona. * 40,000. £ c n Plaça
Roman town. lie a short inland trip from the Catalunya (972 33 00 45). ( Mon.
Costa Brava. Together with _ Santa Ana (26 Jul); Festa Major
Pals and Palau Sator it forms Petita (21 Aug). www.visitblanes.net
part of the ‘Golden Triangle’
of medieval villages. Its moun- The working port of Blanes has
tain-top position gives some one of the longest beaches on
dramatic views of the area. A the Costa Brava. The highlight
labyrinth of cobbled streets of the town is the Jardí Botànic
wind up to the well-conserved Mar i Murtra. These gardens,
castle and lookout tower, designed by Karl Faust in 1928,
whose written records date are spectacularly sited above
from the 11th century. Peratall- cliffs. Their 7,000 species of
ada’s counts and kings made Mediterranean and tropical
doubly sure of fending off plants include African cacti.
any attackers by constructing
a sturdy wall enclosing the Y Jardí Botànic Mar i Murtra
Pg Karl Faust 10. Tel 972 33 08
entire village, which even
26. # daily. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25
An excavated Roman pillar in the today limits the nucleus from & 26 Dec. & 8 7
ruins of Empúries further expansion.
Surrealist decoration on one of the buildings of the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres
 C A T A L O N I A 121

The Costa Brava

The Costa Brava (“wild coast”) runs for d’Aro – are to the south. Sant Feliu de
some 200 km (125 miles) from Blanes Guíxols and Palamós are still working
northwards to the region of Empordà, towns behind the summer rush. Just
which borders France. It is a mix of inland there are medieval villages to
rugged cliffs, pine-backed sandy explore, such as Peralada, Peratallada
coves, golden beaches and crowded, and Pals. Wine, olives and fishing
modern resorts. The busiest resorts – were the mainstays of the area before
Lloret de Mar, Tossa de Mar and Platja the tourists came in the 1960s.

• Cadaqués

• Roses
Cadaqués retains an air of seclusion as it is Roses lies at the head
accessible only by a steep road. It has an arty of a sweeping bay. Its
atmosphere and its small, stony beaches are sandy beach, the long-
relatively unspoiled and uncrowded. est on the Costa Brava,
has become a mecca
for lovers of water
sports.

L’Escalais a small resort,

popular mainly with
local tourists. It has fine
• L’Escala beaches and a small
port where fishing nets
dry in the sun.

• L’Estartit

Illes Medes Begur is a hilltop town just

inland. It has good views
L’Estartit is a good base for the Illes of the coast, and small
Medes, a former pirates’ lair, which coves are tucked at its feet.
now form a marine reserve with
clear waters perfect for skin diving.
• Begur Llafranc, a whitewashed
Palamós is a working port with resort, with a promenade
modern hotels to the south, and leading to neighbouring
secluded beaches and coves lapped Calella, is one of the coast’s
by clear water to the north. most pleasant resorts.
• Llafranc
Platja d’Aro’s long and sandy
• Calella de
beach is lined with modern Palafrugell
hotels. It is one of the most
popular resorts on the coast. • Palamós

Tossa de Mar has a

golden beach in a • Platja d’Aro
small cove beneath
the fortified old town. • S’Agaró

•
Sant Feliu de Guixols

• Lloret de Mar has more

Tossa de Mar
hotels than anywhere else
•
Lloret de Mar 0 kilometres 10
on the coast. But there are
unspoiled beaches nearby,
• such as Santa Cristina.
Blanes 0 miles 5
122 C A T A L O N I A

Monestir de Montserrat p

The “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), its high-

est peak rising to 1,236 m (4,055 ft), is a
superb setting for Catalonia’s holiest place, the
Monastery of Montserrat, which is surrounded
by chapels and hermits’ caves. A chapel was
first mentioned in the 9th century, the monas-
tery was founded in the 11th century, and in
1409 it became independent of Rome. In
1811, when the French attacked Catalonia in
the War of Independence (see p45), the mon-
astery was destroyed. Rebuilt and repopulat-
ed in 1844, it was a beacon of Catalan culture
A Benedictine during the Franco years. Today Benedictine
monk monks live here. Visitors can hear the Escol-
ania singing the Salve Regina i Virolai (the
Montserrat hymn) at various times throughout the day
except on Saturdays, in July and August and during the
Christmas period (call ahead for details).

Plaça de Santa Maria

The focal points of the square
are two wings of the Gothic
cloister built in 1477. The Gothic cloister
modern monastery façade
Funicular to the holy
is by Francesc Folguera. site of Santa Cova

The Museum has a collection of

19th- and 20th-century Catalan
paintings and many Italian and
French works. It also displays
liturgical items from the Holy Land.

The Way of the Cross

This path passes 14 statues
representing the Stations of
the Cross. It begins near the
Plaça de l’Abat Oliba.

STAR FEATURES
View of Montserrat
. Basilica Façade
The complex includes cafés and a hotel.
. Black Virgin A second funicular transports visitors
to nature trails above the monastery.
 C A T A L O N I A 123

. Basilica Façade VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Agapit and Venanci
Vallmitjana sculpted Montserrat (Barcelona province).
Christ and the Apostles Tel 93 877 77 77. £ Aeri de
Montserrat, then cable car;
on the basilica’s Neo-
Monistrol-Enllaç, then rack railway.
Renaissance façade. c from Barcelona. Basilica
It was built in 1900 # 7am–7:30pm Mon–Fri,
to replace the Renais- 7am–8:30pm Sat–Sun (August:
sance façade of the 7am–8:30pm daily). 5 11am &
original church, noon Mon–Fri; 11am, noon, &
consecrated in 1592. 7:30pm Sat; 9:30am, 11am, noon,
1pm & 7:30pm Sun. 8 Museum
# 10am–5:45pm daily. & 7
. Black Virgin 8 www.abadiamontserrat.cat
La Moreneta looks down from
behind the altar, protected
behind glass; her wooden orb
protrudes for pilgrims to touch.

Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a
richly enamelled altar and
paintings by Catalan artists.

The rack railway from Monistrol

de Montserrat follows the course
of a rail line built in 1880.

Cable car to Aeri de

Montserrat station

THE VIRGIN OF MONTSERRAT

The small wooden statue of La Moreneta
(the dark maiden) is the soul of Montserrat.
It is said to have been made by St Luke
and brought here by St Peter in AD 50.
Centuries later, the statue is believed to
have been hidden from the Moors in
the nearby Santa Cova (Holy Cave).
Carbon dating suggests, however, that Inner Courtyard
the statue was carved around the 12th On one side of the courtyard
century. In 1881 Montserrat’s Black is the baptistry (1902), with
Virgin became patroness of Catalonia.
sculptures by Carles Collet.
The blackened Virgin of Montserrat A door on the right leads
towards the Black Virgin.
124 C A T A L O N I A

Vic a
Barcelona. * 40,000. £ c n C/
Ciutat 4 (93 886 20 91). ( Tue & Sat.
_ Mercat del Ram (Sat before Easter),
Sant Miquel (5–15 Jul), Música Viva (3
days mid-Sep), Mercat medieval (6–10
Dec). http://victurisme.ajvic.net

Market days are the best time

to go to this small country
town. This is when the excel-
lent local sausages (embotits),
for which the area is renown-
ed, are piled high in the large
Gothic Plaça Major, along
with other produce from the Cardona dominating the surrounding area from its hilltop site
surrounding plains.
In the 3rd century BC Vic E Museu Episcopal Solsona d
was the capital of an ancient Plaça Bisbe Oliba, 3. Tel 93 886 93
Iberian tribe, the Ausetans. The 60. # Tue–Sun. ¢ 1, 6 Jan, 25, Lleida. * 9,000. c n Carretera de
town was then colonized by 26 Dec. & 7 8 Bassella 1 (973 48 23 10). ( Tue &
the Romans – the remains of Fri. _ Carnival (Feb), Sant Isidro
a Roman temple survive today. Cardona s (closest weekend to 15 May), Corpus
Since the 6th century the town Christi (May/Jun), Festa major (8–11
has been a bishop’s see. In the Barcelona. * 5,000. c n Sep). www.elsolsonesinvita.com
11th century, Abbot Oliva com- Avinguda Rastrillo (93 869 27 98).
missioned El Cloquer tower, ( Sun. _ Carnival (Feb), Festa Nine towers and three gate-
around which the cathedral major (second weekend of Sep). ways remain of Solsona’s
was built in the 18th century. www.cardona.cat fortifications. Inside is an anci-
The interior is covered with ent town of noble mansions.
vast murals by Josep-Maria This 13th-century, ruddy- The cathedral houses a beau-
Sert (1876–1945, see p29). stoned castle of the Dukes of tiful black stone Virgin. The
Painted in reds and golds, Cardona, constables to the Museu Diocesà i Comarcal
they represent Biblical scenes. crown of Aragón, is set on the contains Romanesque paint-
Adjacent to the cathedral is top of a hill. The castle was ings and the Museu del Ganivet
the Museu Episcopal de Vic rebuilt in the 18th century and has a fine knife collection.
(see p23), which has one of is now a luxurious parador
the best Romanesque collec- (see p132). Beside the castle E Museu Diocesà i Comarcal
Plaça del Palau 1. Tel 973 48 21 01.
tions in Catalonia. The large is an early 11th-century church,
# Tue–Sun. 7 ¢ 1 Jan, 25, 26 Dec.
display of mainly religious art the Església de Sant Vicenç.
and relics includes bright, The castle gives views of the E Museu del Ganivet
simple murals and wooden town and of the Muntanya Trav. Sant Josep, 9. Tel 973 48 15
carvings from rural churches. de Sal (Salt Mountain), a huge 69. # Tue–Sun. ¢ 6 Jan, 25, 26
Dec. & 7
Also on display are 11th- and salt deposit beside the Riu
12th-century frescoes and Cardener that has been mined
some superb altar frontals. since Roman times.
Lleida f
Lleida. * 136,000. £ c n C/ Major
31 (902 25 00 50). ( Thu & Sat. _
Sant Anastasi (11 May), Sant Miquel
(29 Sep). http://turisme.paeria.es

Dominating Lleida, the capital

of Catalonia’s only inland pro-
vince, is La Suda, a fort taken
from the Moors in 1149. The
cathedral, founded in 1203, lies
within the fort’s walls, above
the town. It was transformed
into barracks by Felipe V in
1707. Today it is desolate, but
remains imposing, with mag-
nificent Gothic windows.
A lift descends from La
Seu Vella to the Plaça de
12th-century altar frontal, Museu Episcopal de Vic Sant Joan in the busy,
 C A T A L O N I A 125

pedestrianized shopping monasteries. The other two,

street that sweeps round the Vallbona de les Monges and
foot of the hill. The new Poblet, are nearby. The
cathedral is here, as is the Monestir de Santes Creus was
reconstructed 13th-century founded in 1150 by Ramon
town hall, the Paeria. Berenguer IV (see p42) during
his reconquest of Catalonia.
The Gothic cloisters are
Poblet g decorated with figurative
sculptures, a style first permit-
See pp126–7. ted by Jaume II, who ruled
from 1291 to 1327. His tomb
is in the 12th-century church,
Montblanc h which features a rose window.

Tarragona. * 7,000. £ c n
Antigua Església de Sant Francesc R Monestir de Santes Creus
(977 86 17 33). ( Tue & Fri. _ Tel 977 63 83 29. # 10am–3pm
Tue–Sun & public hols. ¢ 1 Jan, 25
Festa major (8–11 Sep), Festa
Dec. & 7 8 by appointment.
Medieval (two weeks in Apr).
www.montblancmedieval.org
Vilafranca del
The medieval grandeur of Penedès k
Montblanc lives on within its
walls – possibly Catalonia’s Barcelona. * 38,000. £ c
finest piece of military archi- n Carrer Cort 14 (93 818 12 54).
tecture. At the Sant Jordi gate ( Sat. _ Fira de Mayo (2nd week Anxaneta climbing to the top
St George allegedly slew the of May), Festa major (end Aug). of a tower of castellers
dragon. The Museu Comarcal www.turismevilafranca.com
de la Conca de Barberà has HUMAN TOWERS
displays on local crafts. This market town is set in the The province of Tarragona
heart of Penedès, the main is famous for its casteller
E Museu Comarcal de la wine-producing region of festivals, in which teams of
Conca de Barberà Catalonia. The Vinseum men stand on each other’s
Carrer de Josa 6. Tel 977 86 03 49.
(Wine Museum) documents shoulders in an effort to
# Tue–Sun & public hols. &
the history of the area’s wine build the highest human
trade. Local bodegues can be tower (castell). Configura-
Santes Creus j visited for wine tasting. tions depend on the num-
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, the ber of men who form the
Tarragona. * 150. c n Plaça de capital of Spain’s sparkling base. Teams wear similar
Sant Bernat 1 (977 63 81 41). ( Sat wine, cava (see pp32–3), is colours, and often have
& Sun. _ Santa Llúcia (13 Dec). 8 km (5 miles) to the north. names denoting their home
town. The small child who
The tiny village of Santes E Vinseum has to undertake the
Plaça de Jaume I. Tel 93 890 05 82.
Creus is home to the prettiest perilous climb to the top,
# 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat.
of the “Cistercian triangle” where he or she makes the
sign of the cross, is called
the anxaneta. Castellers
assemble in competition
for Tarragona province’s
major festivals throughout
the year. In the wine town
of Vilafranca del Penedès
they turn out for Sant
Fèlix (30 August), and in
Tarragona city for Santa
Tecla, its festa major on 23
September. Rival teams in
Valls appear on St John’s
Day (24 June), but strive
for their best achievement
at the end of the tower-
building season on St
Ursula’s Day (21 October),
when teams from all over
Catalonia converge on the
town square.
Monestir de Santes Creus, surrounded by poplar and hazel trees
126 C A T A L O N I A

Monestir de Poblet g

The monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet is a haven of The dormitory is

tranquillity and a resting place of kings. It was the reached by stairs from
first and most important of three monasteries, known the church. The vast
as the “Cistercian triangle” (see p125), that helped to 87-m (285-ft) gallery
dates from the 13th
consolidate power in Catalonia after it had been re- century. Half of it is still
captured from the Moors by Ramon Berenguer IV. in use by the monks.
In 1835, due to the Ecclesiastical Confiscation law,
and during the Carlist upheavals, it was plundered
and damaged by fire. Restoration of the impressive
ruins began in 1930 and monks returned in 1940.
The 12th-century
refectory is a
vaulted hall with
an octagonal
fountain and a
pulpit.

View of Poblet
The abbey, its buildings enclosed
by fortified walls that have hardly
changed since the Middle Ages, is
in an isolated valley near the Riu
Francolí’s source.
Museum

Wine cellar

Library
The Gothic scriptorium was
converted into a library in Former
the 17th century, when the kitchen
Cardona family donated its Royal
book collection. doorway Museum

TIMELINE
1150 Santes Creus founded – third abbey Royal tombs
in Cistercian triangle
14th century Main cloister finished 1812 Poblet
1156 Founding of Cis- desecrated
tercian monastery at 1479 Juan II, last king by French 1940 Monks
Vallbona de les Monges of Aragón, buried here troops return

1100 1300 1500 1700 1900

1196 Alfonso 1336–87 Reign of Pere the Ceremonious, who 1952 Tombs
II is the first designates Poblet a royal pantheon reconstructed.
king to be Royal remains
buried here returned

1150 Poblet monastery founded 1835 Disentailment (p45) of

by Ramon Berenguer IV monasteries. Poblet ravaged
 C A T A L O N I A 127

Chapterhouse VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This perfectly square room,
Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
with slender columns, has Montblanc. Tel 977 87 00 89.
tiers of benches for the £ L’Espluga de Francolí, then
monks. It is paved walk or taxi. c 8 only, from
with the tombstones 10am–12:45pm & 3–5:30pm
of 11 abbots who daily (to 6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct).
died between ¢ 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. &
1312 and 5 10am, 1pm & 6pm Sun &
public hols. 0 ^
1623.

Parlour cloister

Sant Esteve
cloister

New
sacristy
. The Altar Piece
Behind the stone altar,
supported by Romanesque
columns, an impressive
alabaster reredos fills the
apse. It was sculpted by
Damià Forment in 1527.

The Abbey Church,

large and unadorned, with
three naves, is a typical
Cistercian building. . Royal Tombs
The tombs in the pantheon of
kings were begun in 1359. In
Baroque
1950 they were reconstructed
church
façade by the sculptor Frederic Marès.

. Cloisters
The evocative, vaulted STAR FEATURES
cloisters were built in the
12th and 13th centuries . The Altar Piece
and were the centre of
monastic life. The capitals . Royal Tombs
are beautifully decorated . Cloisters
with carved scrollwork.
128 C A T A L O N I A

Palm trees lining the waterfront at Sitges

Sitges l Port Aventura, south of its Roman past. As the capital

Tarragona, is one of Europe’s of Tarraconensis, the Romans
Barcelona. * 28,000. £ c largest theme parks and has used it as a base for the con-
n C/ Sínia Morera 1 (93 810 93 40). many exotically-themed quest of the peninsula in the
( Thu (in summer). _ Festa major attractions, such as Polynesia 3rd century BC (see p41).
(22–27 Aug), Carnival (Feb/Mar). and Wild West. Cambrils and The avenue of Rambla
www.sitgestour.com Salou to the south are the live- Nova ends abruptly on the
liest resorts – the others are clifftop Balcó de Europa, in
Sitges has no less than nine low-key, family holiday spots. sight of the ruins of the
beaches. It has a reputation as Amfiteatre Romà and the
a gay resort but is just as E Museu Pau Casals ruined 12th-century church of
Avinguda Palfuriana 67.
popular with Barceloneses. Santa Maria del Miracle.
Tel 977 68 42 76. # Tue–Sun.
Lively bars and restaurants Nearby is the Praetorium,
line its main boulevard, the  Port Aventura a Roman tower that was
Passeig Marítim, and there are Autovia Salou–Vila-seca. Tel 902 20 converted into a palace in
22 20. # mid-Mar–6 Jan. & 7
many examples of medieval times. It now houses
modernista architecture the Pretori i Circ Romans. This
scattered amongst the 1970s displays Roman and medieval
apartment blocks. Modernista Tarragona x finds, and gives access to the
artist Santiago Rusiñol (see p29) cavernous passageways of the
spent much time here and be- Tarragona. * 140,000. ~ £ c excavated Roman circus, built
queathed his quirky collection n Carrer Major 39 (977 25 07 95). in the 1st century AD. Next to
of ceramics, sculptures, paint- ( Tue, Thu & Sun. _ Sant Magí the Praetorium is the Museu
ing and ornate iron-work to (19 Aug), Santa Tecla (23 Sep). Nacional Arqueològic,
the Museu Cau Ferrat. It lies www.tarragonaturisme.cat containing the most important
next to Sitges’s landmark, the collection of Roman artifacts in
17th-century church of Sant Tarragona is now a major Catalonia. It has an extensive
Bartomeu i Santa Tecla. industrial port, but it has collection of bronze tools and
preserved many remnants of beautiful mosaics, including a
E Museu Cau Ferrat
Carrer Fonollar. Tel 93 894 03 64.
# Tue–Sun. ¢ public hols. &8

Costa Daurada z
Tarragona. £ c Calafell, Sant Vicenç
de Calders, Salou. n Tarragona (977
23 34 15). www.costadaurada.org

The long sandy beaches of

the Costa Daurada (Golden
Coast) run along the shores of
Tarragona provine. El Vendrell
is one of the area’s active ports.
The Museu Pau Casals in Sant
Salvador (El Vendrell) is dedi-
cated to the famous cellist. The remains of the Roman amphitheatre, Tarragona
 C A T A L O N I A 129

Head of Medusa. Among the Tortosa c Delta de L’Ebre v

most impressive remains are
the huge Pre-Roman stones Tarragona. * 35,000. n Plaça Tarragona. £ Aldea. c Deltebre,
on which the Roman wall is Carrilet, 1 (977 44 96 48). ( Mon. Aldea. n Deltebre (977 48 96 79).
built. An archaeological walk _ Nostra Senyora de la Cinta (1st www.deltebre.net
stretches 1-km (half a mile) week Sep). www.turismetortosa.com
along the wall. The delta of the Riu Ebre is
Behind the wall lies the 12th- A ruined castle and medieval a prosperous rice-growing
century cathedral, built on the walls are clues to Tortosa’s region and wildlife haven.
site of a Roman temple. This historical importance. Sited at Some 70 sq km (27 sq miles)
evolved over many the lowest crossing have been turned into a nature
centuries, as seen point on the Riu reserve, the Parc Natural del
from the blend of Ebre, it has been Delta de L’Ebre. In Deltebre
styles of the exterior. strategically signifi- there is an information centre
Inside is an alabaster cant since Iberian and an interesting Eco-Museu,
altarpiece of St Tecla, times. The Moors held with an aquarium containing
carved by Pere Joan the city from the 8th species found in the delta.
in 1434. The 13th- century until 1148. The The main towns in the area
century cloister has old Moorish castle, are Amposta and Sant Carles
Gothic vaulting, known as La Suda, is de la Ràpita, both of which
but the doorway is all that remains of serve as good bases for
Romanesque their defences. It exploring the reserve.
(see pp22–3). has now been reno- The best places to see the
In the west of vated as a parador variety of wildlife are along
town is a 3rd- to (see p141). The the shore, from the Punta del
6th-century Chris- Ruins of the Palaeo- Moors also built a Fangar in the north to the
tian cemetery (ask Christian Necropolis mosque in Tortosa Punta de la Banya in the south.
about opening in 914. Its founda- Everywhere is accessible by
times in the archaeological tions were used for the present car except the Illa de Buda.
museum). Some of the sar- cathedral, on which work Flamingoes breed on this
cophagi were originally used began in 1347. Although it was island and, together with other
as pagan tombs. not completed for two cen- water birds such as herons
turies, the style is pure Gothic. and avocets, can be seen from
Environs Tortosa was badly damaged tourist boats that leave from
The Aqüeducte de les Ferreres in 1938–39 during one of the Riumar and Deltebre.
lies just outside the city, next fiercest battles of the Civil
to the A7 motorway. This 2nd- War (see p47), when the Ebre E Eco-Museu
century aqueduct was built to formed the front line between Carrer Martí Buera 22. Tel 977 48
96 79. # daily. & 7 8
bring water to the city from the the opposing forces.
Riu Gaià, 30 km (19 miles) to
the north. The Arc de Berà, a
1st-century triumphal arch on THE SARDANA
the Via Augusta, is 20 km (12 Catalonia’s national dance is more complicated than it
miles) northeast on the N340. appears. The dancers must form a circle and accurately count
The bustling, provincial town the complicated short- and long-step skips and jumps. Music
of Reus lies inland from is provided by a cobla, an 11-person band consisting of a
Tarragona. Although its airport leader playing a three-holed flute (flabiol) and a little drum
serves the Costa Daurada, it is (tamborí), five woodwind players and five brass players. The
often overlooked by holiday- sardana is performed during most festes and at special day-
makers. However there is some long gatherings called aplecs. In Barcelona it is danced on
fine modernista architecture to Saturday evenings at 6 in front of the cathedral and usually
be seen here, notably some every Sunday evening at 6 in the Plaça de Sant Jaume.
early work by Antoni Gaudí
who was born in Reus. The
Pere Mata Psychiatric Institute
was designed by Domènech i
Montaner before his master-
piece, the Hospital de la Santa
Creu i de Sant Pau (see p79).
E Museu Nacional
Arqueològic de Tarragona
Plaça del Rei 5. Tel 977 23 62 09.
# Tue–Sun. & 7
www.mnat.es
E Pretori i Circ Romans
Plaça del Rei. Tel 977 23 01 71.
# Tue–Sun. & A group of sardana dancers captured in stone
 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 132141

RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS AND BARS 142153
SHOPPING IN BARCELONA 154161
ENTERTAINMENT IN BARCELONA 162169
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 170171
132 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY
C atalonia has an unrivalled
variety of accommoda-
tion. The Barcelona and
Catalonia tourist authorities
have complete listings of hotels,
while on the coast you can try a
self-catering holiday village (effi-
ciencies) with all sorts of sports
and entertainments provided.
Family-run cases de pagès, which
country houses and camp sites are stone-built farm or village
Sign for a luxury
as well as information on a range five-star hotel houses or country manors, are
of other options. In Barcelona Catalonia’s most distinctive alter-
you can stay in the modern luxury of native. Some of the best hotels in every
one of Spain’s highest skyscrapers, price range are listed on pages 134–41.

you book a room. However,

a deposit of 20–25 per cent
may be levied for bookings
during peak periods or for
a stay of more than a few
nights. You may lose all or
some of it if you cancel at
less than a week’s notice.
Most hotels will honour a
booking only until 8pm. If
you are delayed, telephone to
tell them when to expect you.
When checking in you will
be asked for your passport or
identity card to comply with
police regulations. It will nor-
mally be returned as soon as
Façade of the Hotel Lloret in Barcelona’s Rambla de Canaletes your details have been copied.

HOTEL GRADING AND room in a one-star hostal can PARADORS

FACILITIES be as little as €30 a night; one
in a five-star hotel will cost There are seven paradors in
The different types of hotel more than €150 a night. Prices Catalonia – at Aiguablava,
in Catalonia are denoted by vary according to region, Artíes, Cardona, Seu de Urgell,
the blue plaques near their season, day of the week or Vic, Vielha and Tortosa. They
doors. These show a star-rating special feature such as a view form part of Spain’s chain of
which reflects the number and or balcony. The prices given high-quality, government-run
range of facilities available on pages 134–41 are based on hotels in historic buildings, or
rather than quality of service. mid-season or high (tourist)- in purpose-built, new buildings
Hotels (H) and hotel-residències season rates. Prices for rooms in spectacular settings. Reser-
(HR) are graded from one to and meals are usually quoted vations for paradors can be
five stars; motels (M), hostals without including VAT (IVA), made through the Central de
(H) and hostal-residències HR) currently eight per cent. Reservas (Madrid), Keytel
from one to three stars; and International (London) and
pensions (P), with the simplest BOOKING AND CHECK-IN Marketing Ahead (New York).
accommodation, have one or
two stars. Hotels, hostals, pen- Hotels in Barcelona can be
sions and motels may not have very busy during the many
restaurants. Hotel-residències trade fairs held all year round,
and hostal-residències do not so booking in advance is
have full dining rooms, but advisable. Off-season in rural
some serve breakfast. Catalonia there is rarely any
need to book ahead, but if
PRICES AND PAYING you want a room in a busy
season or in a particular hotel
Spanish law requires all hotels it is a good idea to do so.
to display their prices at Resort hotels on the Costa
reception and in every room. Brava often close from autumn
As a rule, the higher the star- to spring. On the warmer Costa
rating, the greater the price. Daurada, hotels may have a
Rates are almost invariably shorter winter closing period.
quoted per room (but meal You will not normally be The spacious and comfortable
prices per person). A double asked for a deposit when interior of the parador at Vic
Christmas market in front of the cathedral, Barcelona
 W H E R E T O S T AY 133

sports and entertainments.

Gites de Catalunya are superior
country houses rented out
on a week-by-week basis by
Turisverd or Villas 4 You.
Many cases de pagès are also
self-catering.

CAMP SITES

Catalonia has over 300 camp

sites, classified as deluxe (L),
Solid, stone-built architecture typical of traditional Catalan farmhouses 1-star, 2-star, 3-star, or farm (M,
càmpings-masia). All have
RURAL ACCOMMODATION SELF-CATERING basic amenities, guards and a
safe. Catalunya Càmpings,
Cases de Pagès (also called Villas and apartments let by published by the Generalitat
cases rurales) are Catalan farm- the week are plentiful on the (see p174), is available from
houses (masies) that accept Costa Daurada and Costa tourist offices. Many sites in
visitors. Some do B&B, some Brava. Aparthotels (or Barcelona are grouped
an evening meal or full board hotels-apartament) and under the Associació de
and many are self-catering. residències-apartament Càmpings de Barcelona
Tourist offices have the Guia are a type of self- (which closes for three
residències-casa de pagès, catering accommodation. weeks in August, so ring
published by the Generalitat Ranked from one to in advance). A camping
de Catalunya. You can book four stars, each apart- carnet from your home
directly or through websites ment has a kitchen, but camping association can
such as www.toprural.com. each complex also has a Sign for a be used instead of a
The Associació Fondes de restaurant and often a camp site passport at sites and also
Catalunya is a group of cases swimming pool and covers you for third-
fonda (simple country hotels, other facilities. Generalitat party insurance. Camping is
offering wholesome regional de Catalunya tourist offices permitted only at official sites.
cuisine). Keep in mind that (see p174) and most travel
the facility closes for two agents have details of all types DISABLED TRAVELLERS
weeks during August. of villas and apartments.
The Xarxa d’Albergs de Holiday (vacation) villages Few hotels are well equipped
Catalunya runs youth hostels, (ciutats de vacances), such for disabled guests, although
which also cater for adults and as Cala Montjoi and Club- some youth hostels are. The
families, and the Federació Hotel Giverola on the Federació ECOM and Viajes
d’Entitats Excursionistes de Costa Brava, are similar, 2000 (see p175) will advise on
Catalunya runs mountain but accommodation is in hotels throughout Catalonia
refuges for hikers. bungalows and includes for visitors with special needs.

DIRECTORY
PARADORS RURAL Fax 93 483 83 62. DISABLED
ACCOMMODATION www.tujuca.com TRAVELLERS
Central de Reservas
Calle Requena 3, 28013 Associació Fondes SELF-CATERING Federació ECOM
Madrid. Tel 902 547 979. de Catalunya Gran Via de les Corts
Ramón Turró 63–65, 2 Villas 4 You Catalanes 562, principal,
Fax 902 525 432. Spring Mill, Earby,
08005 Barcelona. 2a, 08011 Barcelona.
www.parador.es Barnoldswick,
Tel 93 300 16 26. Tel 93 451 55 50.
Keytel Fax 93 300 16 58. Lancs BB94 0AA. Tel 93 451 69 04.
www.casafonda.com Tel 0845 268 0770. www.ecom.cat
International
402 Edgware Road, Federació d’Entitats www.villas4you.co.uk
SPANISH TOURIST
London W2 1ED. Excursionistes de CAMPING OFFICES
Tel 027 953 3020 in UK. Catalunya
www.keytel.co.uk La Rambla 41, Ppal., Associació de UK
08002 Barcelona. Càmpings de 22–23 Manchester Sq.,
Marketing Ahead Tel 93 412 07 77. Barcelona London W1U 3PX.
381 Park Av. Sth., Suite Fax 93 412 63 53. Gran Via Corts Tel 020 7486 8077.
718, New York, NY 10016. www.feec.cat Catalanes 608, 3a, www.spain.info
Tel 800 223 1356 (toll 08007 Barcelona.
Xarxa d’Albergs de US
free). Fax (212) 686 Tel 93 412 59 55.
Catalunya 666 Fifth Ave, Floor 35,
0271 in NY. Fax 93 302 13 36. New York, NY 10103.
Carrer Calàbria 147,
www.marketing 08015 Barcelona. www.campings Tel (212) 265 8822.
ahead.com Tel 93 483 83 41. barcelona.com www.spain.info
134 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

For a standard double room per night,
with tax, breakfast and service
The hotels in the following pages have been selected included.
across a wide price range for the excellence of their
¡ under €75
facilities, location or character. The chart below ¡¡ €75–€125
first lists hotels in Barcelona by area, followed by a ¡¡¡ €125–€200
¡¡¡¡ €200–€275
selection in the rest of Catalonia. Hotels within the ¡¡¡¡¡ over €275.
same price category are listed alphabetically.

OLD TOWN

Downtown Paraiso z ¡

C/Junta de Comerç 13, 08001 Tel 93 302 61 34 Fax 93 302 61 34 Rooms 8 Map 2 F3
Established by four former travellers, this friendly hostal is located in a renovated townhouse on a quiet street in the
lively Raval area. A hit with young backpackers, there is no curfew, a range of rooms, with or without bathrooms,
Wi-Fi access and a kitchen for guests’ use. www.downtownparaisohostel.com

Pensió 2000 ¡

Carrer de Sant Pere més Alt 6,1st floor, 08003 Tel 93 310 7466 Fax 93 319 42 52 Rooms 6 Map 5 B1
This welcoming little hostal has a perfect location overlooking the flamboyant Modernista Palau de la Música. The
cosy bedrooms, some with shared bathroooms, lead off a large, comfortable sitting room with a big TV. Triple and
quadruple rooms are also available. www.pensio2000.com

Pensíon Mari-Luz ¡

Carrer Palau 4, 08002 Tel & Fax 93 317 34 63 Rooms 14 Map 5 A3

A welcoming, family-run pension on the upper floors of a grand 18th-century mansion. There are sparsely furnished
but spotless doubles, singles and dorms, along with self-contained apartments to rent in the nearby Raval neighbour-
hood. Guests have use of a kitchen and access to Wi-Fi. www.pensionmariluz.com

Quartier Gothic ¡

Carrer d’Avinyó 42, 08002 Tel 93 318 79 45 Rooms 28 Map 5 A3

This very simple hotel has a central position, near Port Vell, La Rambla and the Picasso Museum. Best of all, it’s on one
of the Old Town’s best shopping streets, with trendy fashion boutiques and hip bars and restaurants. The rooms are
basic but clean. They are better value in the low season. www.hostalquartiergothic.com

Banys Orientals e0h7 ¡¡

Carrer Argenteria 37, 08003 Tel 93 268 84 60 Fax 93 268 84 61 Rooms 56 Map 5 B3
Situated on a lively and mostly traffic-free street in the chic Born neighbourhood, this is an affordable boutique hotel
with a sleek, less-is-more approach to design and small but comfortable rooms. Slightly more spacious suites are
available in two other buildings a short walk away. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelbanysorientals.com

Gat Raval ez ¡¡

Carrer de Joaquín Costa 44, 08001 Tel 93 481 66 70 Fax 93 342 66 97 Rooms 24 Map 2 F1
A hip, newish hostal, painted in an eye-catching lime green and brilliant white, this is an excellent budget choice in
the heart of the trendy Raval district. Huge blown-up photographs of Barcelona give it a stylish edge. Rooms are
plain, but crisp and modern, and there is Internet access for guests. www.gatrooms.es

Gat Xino :z ¡¡

C/Hospital 149-155, 08001 Tel 93 324 88 33 Fax 93 324 88 34 Rooms 34 Map 2 E2

This is the second hostal from the Gat Accommodation group, and it repeats the formula that has worked so well:
simple, modern design and great prices. It is worth splashing out on the suite, which has its own private terrace. All
rooms have free Wi-Fi. Family rooms are also available. www.gatrooms.es

Hostería Grau hz ¡¡

Carrer de Ramalleres 27, 08001 Tel 93 301 81 35 Fax 93 317 68 25 Rooms 27

Close to the Museum of Contemporary Art (MACBA) and the nightlife of El Raval, this is a delightful little hostal.
Rooms are simply decorated with floral prints and come with or without en suite facilities. They also rent apartments,
a good choice for families or for longer stays. www.hostalgrau.com

Market 7e0:z ¡¡

Passatge Sant Antoni Abad 10, 08015 Tel 93 325 12 05 Fax 93 424 29 65 Rooms 52 Map 2 E1
Close to the Modernista market of Sant Antoni, this stylish hotel has oriental-themed rooms, with glossy, lacquered
wood and a red, white and black colour theme. The hotel has a popular restaurant, where breakfast is served. Free
Wi-Fi. Book well in advance. www.markethotel.com.es

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O S T AY 135

Metropol 7eh0z ¡¡

Carrer Ample 31, 08002 Tel 93 310 51 00 Fax 93 319 12 76 Rooms 71 Map 5 A3
This handsome 19th-century hotel has been thoroughly modernized but retains some old-fashioned charm. It is
tucked away down a quiet street in the Barri Gòtic, and the streetside rooms, many with balconies, are bright and
modern. Interior rooms can be a little gloomy. www.hesperia-metropol.com

Barceló Raval e0S÷h7z ¡¡¡

Rambla del Raval 17–21, 08001 Tel 93 320 14 90 Fax 93 320 14 94 Rooms 188 Map 2 F3
This striking hotel dominates the otherwise down-at-heel Rambla del Raval. The rooftop terrace with its stunning
views is a huge draw, and the open-plan rooms are stylish, with retro fittings and soft neon glows. Gadget fans are
catered for with Nespresso machines and iPod docks. Free Wi-Fi. www.barcelo.com

Barcelona Catedral e0S÷h7z ¡¡¡

Carrer Capellans 4, 08002 Tel 93 304 22 55 Fax 93 304 23 66 Rooms 80 Map 5 A3

In the very heart of the medieval quarter, the Barcelona Catedral is named for its proximity to the Gothic cathedral,
but that’s where the nod to the past ends. Rooms are sharply modern, with flat-screen TVs and mood lighting. The
lobby café is a good meeting place and serves a decent breakfast. Free Wi-Fi. www.barcelonacatedral.com

Chic and Basic 7eh0:z ¡¡¡

Carrer de la Princesa 50, 08003 Tel 93 295 46 52 Fax 93 295 46 53 Rooms 31 Map 5 C2
This converted 19th-century townhouse is popular with visiting fashionistas. The rooms are decorated completely in
white, with contemporary glass and steel bathrooms, but they are given a touch of kitsch glamour with a colourful
LED light system. The White Bar is very hip. Free Wi-Fi. www.chicandbasic.com

Jazz Hotel 7 eh 0 S z ¡¡¡

Carrer Pelai 3, 08001 Tel 93 552 96 96 Fax 93 552 96 97 Rooms 108 Map 5 A1
A glassy ultra-modern hotel near the Plaça de Catalunya, this offers better facilities than its three-star rating would
suggest. There’s a small rooftop pool with sun-deck, and the rooms (all soundproofed) are stylishly decorated with
contemporary furniture and fabrics. Free Wi-Fi. www.hoteljazzbarcelona.com

Montecarlo 7eh:z ¡¡¡

La Rambla 124, 08002 Tel 93 412 04 04 Fax 93 318 73 23 Rooms 55 Map 5 A2

This beautiful hotel right on La Rambla in the centre of Barcelona occupies a former 19th-century palace. The lobby
is a gorgeous whirl of gilt and marble, but rooms are smart and modern. Staff are particularly helpful here, and there
are fantastic deals available on the website. Free Wi-Fi. www.montecarlobcn.com

Nouvel 0z ¡¡¡

Carrer de Santa Anna 18–20, 08002 Tel 93 301 82 74 Fax 93 301 83 70 Rooms 78 Map 5 A1
In a pretty little shopping street off La Rambla, near the Plaça de Catalunya, this well-managed old-style hotel is
tastefully decorated and furnished. The best rooms have curving Modernista-style balconies, and there’s a charming
lobby and lounge area with 1920s-style chandeliers. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelnouvel.com

Park Hotel 7eh0 z ¡¡¡

Carrer de Marquès de l’Argentera 11, 08003 Tel 93 319 60 00 Fax 93 319 45 19 Rooms 91 Map 5 C3
A rare gem of 1950s architecture, designed by Antonio Moragas in 1951 and well preserved during his son’s award-
winning renovations in 1990. The slim wraparound staircase is a highlight. Rooms are small but smartly furnished
and the best have balconies. Free Wi-Fi. www.parkhotelbarcelona.com

Petit Palace Opera Garden eh0:z ¡¡¡

Carrer de la Boquería 10, 08002 Tel 93 302 00 92 Fax 93 302 15 66 Rooms 61 Map 5 A2
A handsomely converted townhouse just off La Rambla houses this smart, boutique hotel. Modern, colourful rooms
have a musical theme (the city’s Opera House is around the corner). The large and shady interior garden with its
ancient trees and candle-lit corners is deeply romantic. Free Wi-Fi. www.hthoteles.com.

1898 eh0S÷:z ¡¡¡¡

La Rambla 109, 08002 Tel 93 552 95 52 Fax 93 552 95 50 Rooms 169 Map 5 A2
This chic hotel is located in a 19th-century tobacco factory at the top of Las Ramblas. The decor has retained some of
the original fittings and combined them with 21st-century amenities, such as indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a
state-of-the art spa, a fitness centre and a good restaurant and bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotel1898.es

Grand Hotel Central e0S÷h7z ¡¡¡¡

Via Laietana 30, 08003 Tel 93 295 79 00 Fax 93 268 12 15 Rooms 147 Map 5 B2
A rooftop infinity pool, with a great view across the Born neighbourhood to the sea, is perhaps the Grand Central’s
finest feature. Rooms are large and airy, if dimly lit, with wide comfortable beds, and even the standard rooms come
with CD, DVD and MP3 players. Special two-night packages are available. Free Wi-Fi. www.grandhotelcentral.com

Arts 7eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

Carrer de Marina 19–21, 08005 Tel 93 221 10 00 Fax 93 221 10 70 Rooms 483 Map 6 E4
Set in a soaring tower overlooking the Port Olímpic, this is one of Europe’s most luxurious and glamorous hotels. Huge
rooms boast spectacular views along with every imaginable modern convenience, and there are stunning suites on
the upper floors for those with very deep pockets. The best spa in town. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelartsbarcelona.com
136 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Hotel W 7e h0÷S z ¡¡¡¡¡

Moll de Levant, Passeig Joan de Borbó, 08039 Tel 93 221 08 30 Fax 91 360 72 14 Rooms 473 Map 5 B4
Designed by Ricardo Bofill to resemble a giant silvery sail, the enormous W Hotel dominates the port. Each sleek room
boasts extraordinary views through floor-to-ceiling windows, and comes equipped with Munchie boxes and an iPod dock-
ing station. Several restaurants for fine dining, a spa and a stunning rooftop bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.starwoodhotels.com

Le Méridien 7eh0:÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

La Rambla 111, 08002 Tel 93 318 62 00 Fax 93 301 77 76 Rooms 233 Map 5 A1
A very elegant hotel on La Rambla, this is popular with visiting film stars and opera singers from the nearby Liceu
opera house. Rooms are handsomely furnished and the hotel is well equipped for business travellers. For a treat,
book the extravagant Presidential Suite. Free Wi-Fi. www.lemeridienbarcelona.com

Neri eh0z ¡¡¡¡¡

Carrer de Sant Sever 5, 08002 Tel 93 304 06 55 Fax 93 304 03 37 Rooms 22 Map 5 A2
An enchanting hotel which combines the architectural features of the original 18th-century palace with sleek con-
temporary fittings. Airy, stylish rooms are draped in sensuous fabrics, and there’s a magnificent rooftop terrace with
views of the Gothic cathedral. Fabulous restaurant too serving Mediterranean cuisine. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelneri.com

EIXAMPLE

Hostal Eden ez ¡

Carrer Balmes 55, principal 1a, 08007 Tel 93 452 66 20 Fax 93 452 66 21 Rooms 30 Map 3 A4
An excellent-value pensión where guests can use a lounge with DVD player and a free internet connection along
with a sunny terrace. The rooms themselves are plain but clean and adequate, making this a good deal for those
who wish to be near some of Gaudí’s best-known buildings without spending a fortune. www.hostaleden.net

Hostal San Remo z ¡

Carrer Ausias Marc 19, 08026 Tel 93 302 19 89 Rooms 7 Map 5 C1

Run by the owner, the San Remo is a very friendly option for those on a budget, but be warned that it can get
noisy. The rooms are basic but comfortable enough; all have TVs and most have small, clean en suite bathrooms
and balconies. Free Wi-Fi. www.hostalsanremo.com

Hostal Ciudad Condal ehz ¡¡

Carrer de Mallorca 255, 08008 Tel 93 215 10 40 Fax 93 487 04 59 Rooms 15 Map 3 A4
A modest hostal located in a handsome Modernista building on one of the Eixample’s most elegant streets. All rooms
have free Wi-Fi, mini-bars and air conditioning. Rear rooms on the second floor are quieter than those closer to street
level. No breakfasts, but there are dozens of cafés close by. www.hostalciudadcondal.com

Hostal Girona ez ¡¡

Carrer Girona 24, 08010 Tel 93 265 02 59 Fax 93 265 85 32 Rooms 26 Map 5 C1
After the terracotta walls, antique furnishings, oil paintings and velvet sofas of the entrance and hallway, the rooms
here can seem something of a disappointment. In fact they are exactly as you would expect from a pensión – simple,
modestly-sized and clean – and most are en suite. Free Wi-Fi. www.hostalgirona.com

Hotel Paseo de Gràcia ez ¡¡

Passeig de Gràcia 102, 08008 Tel 93 215 06 03 Fax 93 215 37 24 Rooms 33 Map 3 B3
There are few budget choices in the chi-chi Eixample district, but this modest little hotel is a good option. It has a
fabulous location on the city’s most desirable boulevard, close to the finest Gaudí buildings, and some of the simple
rooms offer views of the Plaça de Catalunya. www.hotelpaseodegracia.es

Actual 7ehz ¡¡¡

Carrer Rosselló 238, 08008 Tel 93 552 05 50 Fax 93 552 05 55 Rooms 29 Map 3 B3
This modern, stylish hotel is fashionably decorated in sleek minimalist style. It has a superb location on the same block
as Gaudí’s La Pedrera, and the upmarket boutiques of the Passeig de Gràcia are on the doorstep. Like many hotels in
this area, it is geared towards business travellers, which means good weekend deals. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelactual.com

Axel 7e0S÷hz ¡¡¡

Carrer Aribau 33, 08011 Tel 93 323 93 93 Fax 93 323 93 94 Rooms 66

This is Barcelona’s best gay hotel, a stylish four-star establishment with a wealth of excellent facilities. The rooms are
sleek and modern, there’s a fabulous rooftop bar, and business facilities are available in the small library. There’s also
a dipping pool, and a good restaurant with drag shows. Free Wi-Fi. www.axelhotels.com

Catalunya Plaza e0z ¡¡¡

Plaça de Catalunya 7, 08002 Tel 93 317 71 71 Fax 93 317 78 55 Rooms 46 Map 5 A1

A reliable chain hotel in the city centre which is popular with business people. The 19th-century building has large
sitting rooms decorated with some intricate frescoes. Rooms are attractively if generically decorated, but vary in size;
request a larger room when booking. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelcatalunyaplaza.com

Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 137

Granados 83 7 e0S÷h:z ¡¡¡

Carrer d’Enric Granados 83, 08008 Tel 93 492 96 70 Fax 93 492 96 90 Rooms 77 Map 3 A3
The rooms at this designer hotel are stylishly decorated with African zebrawood, chocolate brown leather and
original pieces of Buddhist and Hindu art. Suites have private terraces overlooking a small plunge pool. There is an
excellent restaurant and a small rooftop with a very fashionable bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.derbyhotels.es

Hotel Murmuri 7ez ¡¡¡

Rambla Catalunya 104, 08008 Tel 93 550 06 00 Fax 93 550 06 01 Rooms 53 Map 3 A3
One of the fanciest establishments on the Barcelona hotel scene, the Murmuri is part of a small luxury chain that
includes the nearby Hotel Majestic. Rooms are suitably plush, and there is a fabulously trendy cocktail bar as well
as an acclaimed Asian restaurant. Tapas are served on a quiet terrace. Free Wi-Fi. www.murmuri.com

Hotel Soho 7 e0Sz ¡¡¡

Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 543, 08011 Tel 93 552 96 10 Fax 93 552 96 11 Rooms 51 Map 2 E1
The Hotel Soho is chic without being intimidating, and staff are helpful and friendly. The decked rooftop terrace with
plunge pool and bar is a popular place to hang out, while the rooms are a good size, with glassed-in bathrooms. The
hotel can get busy so book well in advance. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelsohobarcelona.com

SixtyTwo e:÷z ¡¡¡

Passeig de Gràcia 62, 08007 Tel 93 272 41 80 Fax 93 272 41 81 Rooms 45 Map 3 A4
Zen meets Modernism in this tasteful, luxury hotel near Gaudí’s most important buildings. Rooms are light-filled and
stylish, with up-to-the-minute amenities including Bang and Olufsen TVs and music systems. In the chilled-out
Zeroom, you can browse through art and design books. www.sixtytwohotel.com

Clarís 7eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡¡

Carrer Pau Clarís 150, 08009 Tel 93 487 62 62 Fax 93 215 79 70 Rooms 124 Map 3 B4
Antique kilims and elegant English and French furniture ornament this hotel off the Passeig de Gràcia. It occupies
the converted Vedruna Palace, and is scattered with fabulous artworks from around the world. There’s a panoramic
rooftop pool and sun-deck, and guests may use the hotel Smart cars. Free Wi-Fi. www.derbyhotels.es

Condes de Barcelona eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡

Passeig de Gràcia 73–75, 08008 Tel 93 445 00 00 Fax 93 445 32 32 Rooms 235 Map 3 A4
This hotel is located in two handsomely renovated Modernista palaces, with marble lobbies and creamy façades. The
rooms in both locations are coolly contemporary and some have Jacuzzis. Choose a room with terrace to admire
Gaudí’s La Pedrera directly across the street. Free Wi-Fi. www.condesdebarcelona.com

Hispanos Siete Suiza eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡

Carrer Sicilia 255, 08025 Tel 93 208 20 51 Fax 93 208 20 52 Rooms 19 Map 4 D3
This aparthotel has a stunning location next to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família cathedral. The 18 two-bedroom apartments
and one suite are traditionally decorated. Proceeds from the aparthotel go to the Dr Melchor Colet foundation for
cancer research. Colet’s collection of vintage cars is on permanent show. Free Wi-Fi. www.hispanos7suiza.com

Majèstic eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡¡

Passeig de Gràcia 68, 08007 Tel 93 488 17 17 Fax 93 488 18 80 Rooms 303 Map 3 A4
A grand, traditional hotel in Neo-Classical style in a chic street (adjoining the Carrer de València). The stylish
bedrooms are decorated with plush drapes and elegant prints, and are all equipped with five-star amenities.
There is a beautiful spa and a small rooftop pool with spectacular views. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelmajestic.es

Omm eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

Carrer Rosselló 265, 08008 Tel 93 445 40 00 Fax 93 445 40 04 Rooms 91 Map 3 B3
From the glistening ultra-modern façade with its peeled-back balconies, to the fluid, glassy public spaces, this hotel is
the epitome of sleek Barcelona design. The fashionably minimalist rooms are very comfortable, and the slick bar and
club make it popular with fashionistas. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelomm.es

FURTHER AFIELD

GRÀCIA Casa Fuster e h 0S : ÷ z ¡¡¡¡¡

Passeig de Gracia 132, 08008 Tel 93 255 30 00 Fax 93 553 30 02 Rooms 96

Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the architect responsible for the dazzling Palau de la Musica, designed the lavish Casa Fuster, a
Modernista building dating back to 1908. After a long restoration project, the house has opened as one of the city’s
most prestigious and luxurious hotels. Do not miss the stunning rooftop views. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelcasafuster.com

POBLENOU Hostal Poble Nou z ¡¡

Carrer Taulat 30, 08005 Tel 93 221 26 01 Fax 93 221 26 01 Rooms 10

This charming, little hostal is located in a colourful 1930s townhouse in the traditional neighbourhood of Poblenou.
It’s close to the best city beaches and well connected by metro and tram to the city centre. The en suite rooms are
simple, but there’s a pretty breakfast terrace. Breakfast included in price. www.hostalpoblenou.com
138 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

SARRIA-SANT GERVASI Petit Hotel eh ¡¡

Carrer Laforja 67, 08021 Tel 93 202 36 63 Fax 93 202 34 95 Rooms 4

As the name suggests, the Petit Hotel is not huge and has just four bedrooms set around a comfortable seating area.
Two are en-suite and two have separate private bathrooms, which are bigger. The area is not particularly central, but
is upmarket and home to some of the city’s finest restaurants. Free Wi-Fi. www.petit-hotel.net

SARRIA-SANT GERVASI Rekord eh÷z ¡¡¡

Carrer de Muntaner 352, 08021 Tel 93 200 19 53 Fax 93 414 50 84 Rooms 15

A small, modern hotel oriented towards business travellers in the uptown shopping area. The large rooms are sleekly
furnished with contemporary fabrics and fittings, and all come equipped with exercise bikes and office space. The
facilites for business travellers are excellent. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelrekord.com

CATALONIA

ARTIES Parador Don Gaspar de Portolà 7eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡

Ctra Bequeira-Beret, 25599 (Lleida) Tel 973 64 08 01 Fax 973 64 10 01 Rooms 58

A modern, warm, comfortable parador built in the local traditional stone and slate. It’s in one of the prettiest
villages of the Vall d’Aran, with attractive narrow streets dotted with medieval chapels. It’s handy for local ski
resorts, and makes a good base for mountain walkers. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

AVINYONET DE PUIGVENTÓS Mas Pau eh0S:z ¡¡

Carretera de Figueres a Olot, 17742 (Girona) Tel 972 54 61 54 Rooms 20

A beautiful hotel in a 16th-century house, surrounded by gardens and wooded farmland. Many of the luxurious
bedrooms and suites are located in the 25-metre-high tower, and have splendid views. There’s a spectacular
restaurant too. Free Wi-Fi. Closed Jan, Feb, early Mar. www.maspau.com

BANYOLES Mirallac 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡

Passeig Darder 50, 17820 (Girona) Tel 972 57 10 45 Fax 972 57 10 39 Rooms 27
A cheerful, old-style hotel overlooking the vast lake at Banyoles, they offer traditionally decorated rooms, a huge
swimming pool and lots of lakeside activities. There’s a good restaurant serving tasty local specialities. Mirallac is
also an ideal place for adventure sports lovers. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelmirallac.com

BEGUR Aigua Blava 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡

Platja de Fornells, 17255 (Girona) Tel 972 62 45 62 Fax 972 62 21 12 Rooms 86

This charming, whitewashed Mediterranean-style hotel overlooks Fornells Bay, one of the prettiest spots on the Costa
Brava. Arches frame beautiful sea views, and it is surrounded by pine trees and gardens. The rooms are light and airy,
and it also offers ten fully-equipped apartments. Minimum two-night stay. Closed Nov–mid-Mar. www.aiguablava.com

BEGUR El Convent 7h0S÷z ¡¡¡¡

Carrer del Racó (Sa Riera) 2, 17255 Tel 972 62 30 91 Fax 972 62 31 04 Rooms 25
A tranquil retreat amid a forest of pine and Mediterranean oak, this serene hotel is perfectly located mid-way between
medieval Begur and the charming cove of Sa Riera. It occupies a handsomely restored 18th-century convent, which com-
bines original details with elegant, contemporary design. Free Wi-Fi. Excellent restaurant. www.hotelconventbegur.com

BEQUEIRA-BERET Royal Tanau 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡

Ctra de Beret, 25598 (Lleida) Tel 902 10 65 52 Fax 973 64 43 44 Rooms 30

This luxurious boutique hotel in the Tanau skiing area has several amenities, including indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis
and a spa. In winter, a private ski lift whisks guests directly to the pistes. There are full après-ski facilities and it offers
elegant, fully-equipped suites as well as rooms. Free Wi-Fi. Open only Jan–mid-Apr. www.solmelia.com

BEUDA Can Felicià h:S ¡¡

Segueró, 17850 (Girona) Tel 972 59 05 23 Fax 972 59 05 23 Rooms 8

Beautiful views make this charming, rural hotel in a former school a good place to stay. The rooms are painted in
fresh, light colours and overlook a lovely garden, perfect for children and complete with a small swimming pool.
The price includes delicious home-cooked dinners for hotel guests only. www.canfelicia.com

BEUDA Mas Salvanera hS ¡¡

Mas Salvanera s/n, 17850 (Girona) Tel 972 59 09 75 Fax 972 59 08 63 Rooms 10
This handsome 17th-century Catalan farmhouse has been attractively converted into a small, family-run rural hotel.
It is beautifully set in gardens, and offers delicious home-cooked food to its guests. Lots of opportunities for hiking,
fishing and horseback riding in the local area. www.salvanera.com

BOLVIR DE CERDANYA Torre del Remei 7eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

Camí Reial s/n, 17539 (Girona) Tel 972 14 01 82 Fax 972 14 04 49 Rooms 20
One of the most luxurious hotels in the region, this opulent Modernista mansion is set in magnificent gardens
with a stunning mountain backdrop. The classically decorated rooms are perfectly equipped with up-to-the-minute
gadgetry, and the extensive facilities include a new spa and gym. Free Wi-Fi. www.torredelremei.com

Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 139

CADAQUÈS Misty hSz ¡

Carretera Nova Port Lligat, 17488 (Girona) Tel 972 25 89 62 Fax 972 15 90 90 Rooms 12
Three houses and a swimming pool surrounded by shady gardens comprise this appealing hotel, one of the most
unusual on the Costa Brava. It’s a good spot for families, with a barbecue area, billiard room and a swimming pool.
There’s a snack bar in high season, but no restaurant. Closed Jan–Mar. www.hotel-misty.com

CARDONA Parador de Cardona eh0÷z ¡¡¡

Carrer de Castell s/n, 08261 (Barcelona) Tel 93 869 12 75 Fax 93 869 16 36 Rooms 54
One of the most striking paradors in Spain, this luxuriously converted medieval castle dominates Cardona and
offers spectacular views of the countryside. Many of the elegant rooms boast four-poster beds, and it has a fine
Catalan restaurant. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

CASTELLDELFELS Gran Hotel Rey Don Jaime 7eh0S:÷ z ¡¡

Avinguda del Hotel 22, 08860 (Barcelona) Tel 93 665 13 00 Fax 93 664 51 51 Rooms 220
This huge Mediterranean-style hotel has arches and whitewashed walls. Choose between modern rooms or more
traditional decor in the rustic zone. There are excellent sports facilities, with everything from squash courts to a
swimming pool. The hilltop setting offers wonderful views of the coast. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelreydonjaime.es

CÓLL Casa Peiró ¡

Carrer La Plaça 7, 25527 (Lleida) Tel 973 29 70 02 Rooms 8

A delightful, family-run little hostelry hidden away in a pretty mountain village. All the traditionally decorated
rooms are en suite, and there’s a sauna and facilities for massage. The rustically decorated restaurant offers tasty
regional dishes including butifarra negra i ceps (local sausage with wild mushrooms). www.hotelcasapeiro.com

FIGUERES Hotel Durán 7eh0z ¡¡

Carrer de Lasauca 5, 17600 (Girona) Tel 972 50 12 50 Fax 972 50 26 09 Rooms 65

This ochre-and-pink hotel is set above one of the finest restaurants in the region, established in 1855. It is still
owned by the same family, who provide a friendly welcome. Rooms are attractively, if simply, furnished, and
many have pretty wrought-iron balconies overlooking the street below. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelduran.com

GIRONA Hotel Aatu h0S ¡¡¡

Afueras s/n, Peratallada (Girona), 17113 Tel 617 46 49 14 Fax 972 63 42 00 Rooms 13
Set in exquisite gardens on the outskirts of the magical medieval village of Peratallada, this is a peaceful and very stylish
rural hotel. There are two swimming pools in the grounds and various activities, including golf, cycling, horse-riding
and even hot-air balloon rides, can be arranged via the hotel. The restaurant has an open fire. www.hotelaatu.net

GIRONA Hotel Llegendes de Girona Catedral 7e0:z ¡¡¡

Portal de la Barça 4, 17004 (Girona) Tel 972 22 09 05 Rooms 15

A charming hotel located in the historic centre of Girona, it is housed in an emblematic medieval stone building with an
18th-century staircase. The hotel has the latest modern facilities and is elegantly decorated. The hotel publishes a
book of legends of Girona for its guests. Free Wi-Fi. www.llegendeshotel.com

GOMBRÈN Fonda Xesc eh0z ¡

Plaça Roser 1, 17531 (Girona) Tel 972 73 04 04 Rooms 14

Perfectly located in the heart of a traditional mountain village, this old-fashioned hotel offers modest, but
immaculate rooms. The renowned restaurant serves fine Catalan specialities, including home-made embutits, which
you can also pick up at their shop. Free Wi-Fi. www.fondaxesc.com

GRANOLLERS Fonda Europa 7e0z ¡¡

Carrer Anselm Clavé 1, 08400 (Barcelona) Tel 93 870 03 12 Fax 93 870 79 01 Rooms 7
This small hotel has been an inn for travellers since 1714, and is still owned by the same family. The bedrooms, on
the second floor, have been completely modernized, and are simply decorated. The restaurant is the big draw here,
with its hearty Catalan specialities prepared to traditional recipes. Free Wi-Fi. www.casafondaeuropa.com

LA GARRIGA Gran Hotel Balneario Blancafort 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡

Carrer Mina, 7, 08530 (Barcelona) Tel 93 860 56 00 Fax 93 871 94 22 Rooms 312
This handsome 19th-century hotel and thermal centre has been converted to include modern five-star luxuries, and is
located in a relaxing spa town near Barcelona. The rooms are classically decorated with prints and drapes, and excel-
lent facilities include a beauty spa and gardens. Free Wi-Fi. www.spablancafort.com

LA SEU D’URGELL Parador de La Seu d’Urgell 7eh0Sz ¡¡¡

Carrer Sant Domènec 6, 25700 (Lleida) Tel 973 35 20 00 Fax 973 35 23 09 Rooms 80
Only the Renaissance cloister, now used as the lounge, remains of a convent that occupied this site close to the
12th-century cathedral of La Seu. The modern parador has good facilities, including a covered pool, and there are
excellent opportunities on the doorstep for hiking and skiing. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

L’ESCALA El Roser eh0z ¡

Carrer L’Església 7, 17130 (Girona) Tel 972 77 02 19 Fax 972 77 45 29 Rooms 22

This family-run, old-fashioned seaside hotel is right on the beach in the heart of the historic centre of L’Escala.
The restaurant is one of the best in the area. Rooms are immaculate and brightly furnished and each has a full bath-
room, telephone and television. Free Wi-Fi. Closed Nov. www.elroserhostal.com
140 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

L’ESPLUGA DEL FRANCOLÍ Hostal del Senglar 7eh0S÷z ¡¡

Plaça de Montserrat Canals 1, 43440 (Tarragona) Tel 977 87 04 11 Fax 977 87 01 27 Rooms 38
A three-storey, whitewashed hotel with simply furnished, traditional rooms including family rooms. There’s a
delightful shady garden where barbecues are held in summer. A menu of delicious dishes traditional to the area is
served in the restaurant. www.hostaldelsenglar.com

LLORET DE MAR Hotel Santa Marta eh0S:÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

Platja Santa Cristina, 17310 (Girona) Tel 972 36 49 04 Fax 972 36 92 80 Rooms 76
The modern Hotel Santa Marta overlooks a beautiful cove on the fringes of the frenetic resort of Lloret de Mar.
Tranquil pine woods and gardens extend to the shore, and there are tennis courts and other sporting facilities. Free
Wi-Fi. Closed mid-Nov–mid-Feb. www.hstamarta.com

MONTSENY Can Barrina hS0z ¡¡

Ctra Palautorder al Montseny, 08460 (Barcelona) Tel 938 47 30 65 Fax 938 47 31 84 Rooms 14
A traditional country house lost in a verdant fold of the glorious Montseny hills, Can Barrina is famous for its excellent
Catalan restaurant. Few people realise, however, that it also has a handful of antique-filled guestrooms, each with original
beams and rustic decoration. The gardens boast sublime views and there is a small pool. www.canbarrina.com

MONTSENY Sant Bernat eh0S÷z ¡¡

Finca El Clot, Ctra Sta Ma de Palautordera a Seva, km 20.8, 08460 (Barcelona) Tel 93 847 30 11 Rooms 23
A gorgeous country house with beautiful views over the Serra de Montseny, the old stone walls are cloaked in greenery.
The rooms and suites are stylishly decorated with traditional prints and rustic furniture. It’s surrounded by extensive
gardens with lawns and a pond, and all kinds of outdoor activities can be arranged. www.hotelhusasantbernat.com

PERAMOLA Can Boix de Peramola eh0S÷z ¡¡

Carrer Afores s/n, 25790 (Lleida) Tel 973 47 02 66 Fax 973 47 02 81 Rooms 41
This good-value, traditional mountain hotel has been in the same family for ten generations. It has charming rooms
and apartments with breathtaking views, and is very convenient for walking in the Pyrenean foothills. The service is
outstanding. Closed Jan–mid-Feb. www.canboix.cat

REGENCÓS Hotel del Teatre eh0S:z ¡¡¡¡

Plaça Major s/n, 17214 (Girona) Tel 972 30 62 70 Fax 972 30 62 73 Rooms 7
In the heart of a rambling, medieval village, this boutique-style hotel is located in a pair of handsomely restored
18th-century mansions. Sleek minimalism and charming original features are stylishly combined in the bedrooms.
There’s a lovely semi-shaded pool in the garden. Free Wi-Fi. www.hoteldelteatre.com

SA TUNA (BEGUR) Hotel Sa Tuna e0z ¡¡¡

Platja Sa Tuna, 17255 (Girona) Tel 972 62 21 98 Fax 972 62 41 82 Rooms 5

A simple, whitewashed small hotel on one of the Costa Brava’s prettiest coves. Improvements by the grandson of the
original owner have added to its charms. Rooms with own terrace overlooking the bay. The restaurant is well known
in the area. Free Wi-Fi. Open Apr–Sep only. www.hostalsatuna.com

SADURNI D’ANOIA Sol I Vi eh0Sz ¡¡

Ctra San Sadurni–Vilafranca km 4, Lavern, 08739 (Barcelona) Tel 938 99 32 04 Fax 938 99 34 35 Rooms 25
A cheerful, traditional hotel set in a sea of vines, this is a good base for exploring the wine- and cava-producing
region southwest of Barcelona. It offers comfortable, simple rooms and boasts a superb restaurant which specialises
in traditional Catalan dishes. Free Wi-Fi. www.solivi.com

S’AGARÓ Hostal de la Gavina e h 0 S÷ z ¡¡¡¡¡

Plaça de la Rosaleda, 17248 (Girona) Tel 972 32 11 00 Fax 972 32 15 73 Rooms 74

This elegant Mediterranean-style beach mansion is set in its own exclusive estate with beautiful gardens and a sea
water pool. Bedrooms are impressively decorated with silk-lined walls and burnished antiques, and the many facilities
include a luxurious spa and a fine restaurant. Free Wi-Fi. www.lagavina.com

SANT PERE DE RIBES Els Sumidors h0Sz ¡¡

Carretera de Vilafranca km 2.4, 18810 (Barcelona) Tel 93 896 20 61 Fax 93 896 20 61 Rooms 9
On the slope of a hill, with views of the Penèdes wine region, this rustic 18th-century house has plenty of
atmosphere and charm but few luxuries. Half lost in greenery, it’s a tranquil world away from the frenzied nightlife
of nearby Sitges. No restaurant but home-cooked meals are available. www.sumidors.com

SANTA CRISTINA D’ARO Mas Torrellas h0S÷z ¡¡

Carretera Santa Cristina-Platja d’Aro, 17246 (Girona) Tel 972 83 75 26 Fax 972 83 75 27 Rooms 18
An attractive 18th-century country house hotel, with ancient stone walls and flower-filled gardens. Its most
comfortable bedroom is in the distinctive yellow tower, built at a later date. There’s a pool and tennis courts and
horseback riding can be arranged. The restaurant is excellent. Closed Oct–Mar. www.mastorrellas.com

SANTA PAU Cal Sastre h0z ¡¡¡

Carrer de les Cases Noves, 1, 17811 (Girona) Tel 902 99 84 79 Rooms 11

A modernized 18th-century rural house has been converted into this elegant, comfortable hotel. It is tucked into
the ancient walls which circle medieval Santa Pau, and is surrounded by a shady garden. Rooms and self-catering
bungalows available. The area has excellent opportunities for hiking and volcano spotting. www.calsastre.com

Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 141

SITGES Romàntic 70z ¡¡

Carrer Sant Isidre 33, 08870 (Barcelona) Tel 93 894 83 75 Fax 93 894 41 29 Rooms 60
Well known in Sitges, this memorable hotel lives up to its name. Bedrooms are simple, but attractively decorated
with antiques and paintings. A gloriously shady garden, with tinkling fountains, is perfect for breakfast and evening
cocktails. Closed Nov–Mar. www.hotelromantic.com

TARRAGONA Imperial Tarraco eh0S÷z ¡¡

Passeig Les Palmeres s/n, 43003 (Tarragona) Tel 977 23 30 40 Fax 977 21 65 66 Rooms 170
The plushest option in Tarragona, this large, modern hotel has a panoramic location right on the Balconi del
Mediterrani. Many of the spacious, elegant rooms and suites have large terraces and the hotel is conveniently close
to the historic centre of the city. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelhusaimperialtarraco.com

TARRAGONA Lauria eh0Sz ¡¡

Rambla Nova 20, 43004 (Tarragona) Tel 977 23 67 12 Fax 977 23 67 00 Rooms 72
A modern, functional hotel in the town centre and close to the sea, with an elegant entrance under balustraded
stone stairs. Rooms are large, although the decor is dated, but the hotel offers good amenities for the price,
including a pool and facilities for business travellers. Self-catering apartments also available. www.hlauria.es

TAVERTET El Jufré ¡

Tavertet, 08511 (Barcelona) Tel 93 856 51 67 Fax 93 856 51 67 Rooms 8

This converted farmhouse is now a delightful casa rural with stunning mountain views, which has been in the same
family for over 800 years. Warm, comfortable rooms have replaced the animal quarters. A perfect base for walking
and exploring Osona. Price includes bed, breakfast and dinner. www.mundo-rural.com

TORRENT Mas de Torrent 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡¡¡

Afueras, 17123 (Girona) Tel 902 55 03 21 Fax 972 30 32 93 Rooms 39

A superbly converted 18th-century country house, this offers luxurious accommodation in one of ten beautiful rooms
in the main house, or in elegant bungalows scattered around the extensive gardens. There are also deluxe suites with
private pools available. Free Wi-Fi. www.mastorrent.com

TORTOSA Parador Castillo de la Zuda eh0Sz ¡¡¡

Castillo de la Zuda, 43500 (Tarragona) Tel 977 44 44 50 Fax 977 44 44 58 Rooms 72

A medieval Moorish castle makes a superb hilltop parador with views of the town and valley of the Riu Ebre. The fine
restaurant offers al fresco dining on the terrace, and there are plenty of luxurious extras including a swimming pool,
in summer only. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

TOSSA DE MAR Diana ehS÷z ¡¡

Plaça d’Espanya 6, 17320 (Girona) Tel 972 34 18 86 Fax 972 34 11 03 Rooms 21

A fine, Modernista mansion is the gorgeous setting for this delightful hotel. There are great views of the castle from
the terrace and the best of the modest rooms have private balconies. The elegant lobby is full of original details and
has been converted into a comfortable lounge area. Closed mid-Nov–Mar. www.diana-hotel.com

TREDÒS Hotel de Tredòs 7eh0Sz ¡

Carretera a Baqueira-Beret km 177.5, 25598 (Lleida) Tel 973 64 40 14 Fax 973 64 43 00 Rooms 45
Skiers and mountain-walkers find this hotel in the Val d’Aran good value. It is built of stone and slate in the local
style, and offers attractive rooms with wooden beams. There’s a cosy lounge with fireplace in winter, and a heart-
shaped outdoor pool to cool off in summer. Free Wi-Fi. Closed Oct, Nov, May and Jun. www.hoteldetredos.com

VIC Parador de Turismo de Vic 7eh0S÷z ¡¡¡

Paratge Bac de Sau, 08500 (Barcelona) Tel 93 812 23 23 Fax 93 812 23 68 Rooms 36
This comfortable stone-built parador, 14 km (9 miles) from Vic, has magnificent views of the Sau reservoir. It’s a
peaceful retreat amid pine forests and dramatic rock formations. Facilities include a tennis court and an outdoor pool
in summers. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

VIELHA (VIELLA) Parador Valle de Arán 7eh0Sz ¡¡¡

Carretera de túnel, 25530 (Lleida) Tel 973 64 01 00 Fax 973 64 11 00 Rooms 118
This modern parador has a panoramic circular lounge dominated by a large window from which there are
magnificent mountain views. There’s a wonderful spa and a fine restaurant, and the rooms are spacious and well
appointed. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es

VILADRAU Hostal de la Glòria eh0S:z ¡¡

Carrer Torreventosa 12, 17406 (Girona) Tel 938 84 90 34 Fax 938 84 94 65 Rooms 26
A traditional hotel with a family atmosphere in a conventional Catalan house above the Serra de Montseny. The fine
restaurant serves creative Catalan specialities and the outdoor pool is surrounded by gardens. You can rent bikes and
horseback-riding can be arranged. www.hoteldelagloria.com

VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ César e0Sz ¡¡

Carrer Isaac Peral 4, 08800 (Barcelona) Tel 93 815 11 25 Fax 93 815 67 19 Rooms 30
This hotel, near the Ribes Roges beach, is located in a marvellous turn-of-the-19th-century mansion. It is owned by
two sisters who pay great attention to detail, from the furniture and the fabrics in the bedrooms to the well-known
restaurant. There are delightful gardens with a pool, which is covered in winter. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelcesar.net
142 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS

E ating out remains both a

common practice and
one of the convivial joys
of life in Catalonia. Catalans are
proud of their regional cuisine
an unusually large number of
restaurants. From the sophis-
ticated feast to the simple
tapa, fresh ingredients are
usually in evidence as
and expect to eat well in restau- Catalans tend to despise con-
rants, not only at celebratory Wall tile advertising a venience food. The restau-
dinners, but also at work-day Barcelona restaurant rants and cafés listed on pages
meal breaks or at family Sunday lunches 146–53 have been selected for their food
out. Country restaurants in particular and atmosphere. Pages 30–1 and 144–5
are packed on Sundays. Barcelona has illustrate some of Catalonia’s best dishes.
EATING HOURS of sandwiches, pastries or
cakes, with coffee, tea or fruit
Catalans, in common with juice. Snacks such as xurros
other Spaniards, often eat a (fried, sugar-coated batter
light breakfast (l’esmorzar) sticks) can also be bought
of biscuits or toast with butter from stalls.
and jam and cafè amb llet By 7pm, bars are crowded
(milky coffee), then follow with people having tapas with
with a second breakfast or sherry, wine or beer. In
snack between 10 and 11am, Catalonia el sopar (dinner or
perhaps in a café. This may supper), begins at about 9pm.
consist of a croissant, or an However, restaurants some-
entrepà (sandwich) times begin serving
with sausage, ham earlier for tourists. In
or cheese, or a slice summer, however,
of the ubiquitous families and groups
truita de patates of friends often do
(potato omelette). not sit down to
Comerç 24, one of Barcelona’s most Fruit juice, coffee Tèxtil Cafè logo dinner until as late
innovative restaurants (see p148) or beer are the usual (see p153) as 11pm. At weekend
accompaniments. lunch times, especially
RESTAURANTS AND BARS From about 1pm onwards, in the summer, you will often
people will stop in the bars find that restaurants are filled
Barcelona and Catalonia for a beer or an aperitivo with by large and noisy family
possess some of Spain’s best tapas. By 2pm those who can gatherings.
restaurants, testifying to the will have arrived home from
quality of Catalan cooking, but work for dinar (lunch), which HOW TO DRESS
the cheapest and quickest is the main meal of the day.
places to eat are the bars and Others will choose to have A jacket and tie are rarely
cafés that serve tapes (tapas). lunch in a restaurant. required, but Catalans dress
Some bars, however, especially The cafés, salons de te (tea smartly, especially for city
pubs (late-opening bars for rooms) and pastisseries (pastry restaurants. Day dress is casual
socializing) do not serve food. shops) fill up by about 6 or in beach resorts, but shorts are
Family-run bars i restaurants, 7pm for el berenar (tea) frowned on in the evenings.
hostals and fondes – old Cata-
lan words for the various
types of inn – serve inexpen-
sive, sit-down meals. Xirin-
guitos are beachside bars
that are open only during
the busy summer season.
Most restaurants close one
day a week, some for lunch
or dinner only, and most for
an annual holiday. They also
close on some public holidays.
The main closing times of the
restaurants on pages 146–53
are listed at the end of each
entry. Always check the open-
ing times, however, when
phoning to book a table. Eating out at Barcelona’s Port Olímpic, a busy venue all year round
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 143

PRICES AND PAYING

If you order from la carta in

a restaurant, your bill can soar
way above the price of the
menú del dia, especially if
you order pricey items, such
as fresh seafood, fish or ibèric
ham. If there is an expensive
fish such as sole or swordfish
on the menu at a bargain
price, it may be frozen. Sea
bass and other popular fish
and shellfish, such as large
prawns, lobster and crab, are
generally priced by weight.
Outdoor tables at a cafeteria in Cadaqués on the Costa Brava El compte (the bill) does not
usually include service charges,
READING THE MENU salad and egg dishes will be but may include a small cover
vegetarian, but may contain charge. Menu prices do not
Aside from tapas, perhaps the pieces of ham or fish, so ask include eight per cent VAT
cheapest eating options in before you order. (IVA), which is usually added
Catalan restaurants are the All eating places welcome when the bill is calculated.
fixed-price plats combinats children and will serve small Clients rarely tip waiters more
and the menú del dia. A plat portions if requested. than five per cent, often just
combinat (meat or fish with rounding up the bill.
vegetables and, usually, fried Cheques are never used in
potatoes) is offered only by restaurants. Traveller’s cheques
cheaper establishments. Most are rarely accepted. Major
restaurants – but not all – offer credit cards and international
an inexpensive, fixed-price debit cards are now accepted
menú del dia, normally of in most restaurants. However,
three courses. This menu is do not expect to pay by credit
generally offered at lunchtime card in smaller eating or
(on weekdays), and it can be drinking places like tapas
a good opportunity to try out bars, cafés, village hostals
an expensive restaurant at a roadside pubs or cellers.
more reasonable price.
The Catalan word for menu WHEELCHAIR ACCESS
is la carta. It starts with sopes
(soups), amanides (salads), All new restaurants have
entremesos (hors d’oeuvres), disabled access, but since
ous i truites (eggs and ome- Las Torres de Àvila (see p163), a older restaurants were rarely
lettes) and verdures i llegums distinctive Barcelona bar designed for wheelchairs,
(vegetable dishes). phone in advance (or ask the
Main courses are peix i WINE CHOICES hotel staff to call) to check on
marisc (fish and shellfish) and access to tables and toilets.
carns i aus (meat and poultry). Dry fino wines are perfect with
Daily specials are chalked on shellfish, sausage, olives and
a board or clipped to menus. soups. Main dishes are often
Paella and other rice dishes accompanied by wines from
may be served as the first Penedès or Terra Alta (see p32)
course. A useful rule is to in Catalonia, or from Rioja,
follow rice with meat, or start Ribera del Duero and Navarra.
with fuet or llonganissa (two Oloroso wines are often drunk
popular types of sausage) or as a digestif. Cava (see pp32–3)
salad and follow with paella. is popular for Sunday lunch.
Desserts are called postres.
All restaurants offer fresh fruit, SMOKING
but otherwise the range of
postres is often limited – per- All restaurants, bars and cafés
haps the famous crema cata- larger than 100 sq m (1100 sq
lana (crème brûlée), or flam ft) must have a non-smoking
(crème caramel) and natillas area. Smaller venues have a
(custard). Gourmet restaurants sign at the door stating whether
have more creative choices. smoking is permitted. A new
Vegetarians are rather poorly law is proposed to ban smok- Interior of Set Portes restaurant
catered for. Some vegetable, ing in public places competely. (see p147), Port Vell, Barcelona
144 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

A Glossary of Typical Dishes traditional hotpot; the meat

and vegetables (carn i olla)
Catalan cuisine at its best, using fresh are served as a main course.
food, is known as cuina de mercat Gaspatxo: a clear, cold tomato
(market cuisine) and there is nowhere soup with raw vegetables.
better to see produce laid out than at Sopa de farigola: thyme soup.
Sopa de bolets: mushroom
Barcelona’s Boqueria market (see p155). soup.
Peppers glisten, fish sparkle and no meat
Olives is wasted – even cocks’ combs are sold for MAIN DISHES
the pot. Olives come in all sorts of varieties.
Spring brings calçot onions and broad (fava) beans, while Methods of cooking are: a la
strawberries, from Easter onwards, are eaten with cava. brasa (over open flames);
In autumn 30 varieties of mushroom spill across the stalls. bullit (boiled); cremat (crisp
fried or caramelized);
TAPES (TAPAS – SNACKS) estofat (stewed); farcit
(stuffed); al forn (in
Bar-hopping around Barcelona the oven); a la graella/
is a delightful way to spend planxa (cooked on a
an evening, and a good way griddle, pan-fried or
to try the many local dishes barbecued); a la pedra
laid out on the counters. (on a hot stone).
Anxoves: anchovies.
Escopinyes: cockles. PEIX I MARISCOS
Bunyols de bacallà: salt cod (FISH AND
fritters. SHELLFISH)
Calamars a la romana: fried
squid rings. Produce at La Boqueria, Barcelona’s huge Allipebre d’anguiles:
Pa amb tomàquet: bread covered market on La Rambla spicy eel stew.
rubbed with tomato, garlic and Anfós al forn: baked
olive oil – a good filler. Cargols a la llauna: snails in a stuffed grouper.
Panadons d’espinacs: small spicy sauce. Calamars farcits: squid stuffed
spinach pasties or pies. Empedrat: salad of salt cod with pork, tomatoes and
Patates braves: potato chunks and white beans. onions.
in spicy tomato sauce. Escalivada: char-grilled or Cassola de peix: fish casserole.
Pernil: ham – leg of pork roasted aubergines (eggplant) Congre amb pèsols: conger
seasoned and hung to dry. and peppers, all drizzled with eel with peas.
Peixet fregit: small fried fish. olive oil. Escamarlans bullits: boiled
Popets: baby octopus. Espinacs a la catalana: spinach crayfish.
Truita: omelette. with pine nuts, raisins and Gambes a la planxa: prawns
Truita de patates: traditional ham; sometimes made with cooked on a griddle.
potato and onion omelette. chard (bledes). Graellada de peix: mixed
Esqueixada: raw salt cod seafood grill.
salad. Llagosta a la brasa: lobster
Faves a la catalana: a broad cooked over open
(fava) bean stew of black pud- flames.
ding, bacon, onion and garlic. Llagostins amb maionesa:
Fideus: noodles, usually king prawns and mayonnaise.
served with fish and meat. Llobarro al forn: baked,
Garotes: raw sea urchins, from sea bass.
the Costa Brava, eaten with Lluç a la planxa: hake cooked
bread, garlic or spring onions. on a griddle.
Musclos: mussels. Molls a la brasa: red mullet
Ous remenats amb camasecs: cooked over open flames.
scrambled eggs with wild Orada a la sal: gilthead bream
Pa amb tomàquet (bread with mushrooms. baked in salt, which is
tomato), often served with ham Pa de fetge: liver pâté. removed on serving.
Sardines escabetxades: Paella valenciana: paella with
ENTRANTS (STARTERS) pickled sardines. chicken and seafood.
Xató: salt cod and tuna salad Peix amb romesco: seafood
These are often unusual dishes with romesco sauce. with the famous romesco
and two may be enough for a sauce. Tarragona’s master
meal. Some may appear as SOPES (SOUPS) romesco makers compete
main courses. each summer.
Amanida catalana: Catalan Caldereta de llagosta: spiny Rap a l’all cremat: angler fish
mixed salad. lobster soup. with crisped garlic.
Arròs negre: squid-ink rice. Escudella i carn d’olla: the Sarsuela: fish, shellfish and
Can be a main course. liquid from Catalonia’s spices, everything goes into
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 145

the pot that gives its name to

a light Spanish opera.
Sèpia amb pèsols: cuttlefish
with peas.
Suquet de peix: Catalonia’s
principal fish stew, made with
various fish, tomatoes, peppers,
potatoes and almonds.
Verats a la brasa: mackerel
cooked over open flames.

CARN (MEAT)

Ànec amb naps: duck with

turnips, ideally the “black”
turnips of the Empordà
region; also sometimes served Barcelona’s cheese and honey market (see p155) in the Plaça del Pi
with pears (ànec amb peres).
Boles de picolat: meatballs in CAÇA (GAME) French beans and potatoes.
tomato sauce. Meatballs with Pastanagues: carrots.
cuttlefish (sèpia) is classic mar Although the hunting season Pebrots: red peppers.
i muntanya food. is from October to February,
Botifarra amb mongetes: some game is available all POSTRES (DESSERTS)
sausage and beans. year round, especially rabbit.
Bou a l’adoba: beef casserole. Becada amb coc: woodcock in Although pastisseria (pastries)
Costelles a la brasa a bread roll. and dolços (sweets) are very
amb allioli: flame-roast lamb Civet de llebre: jugged hare. popular in Catalonia, desserts
cutlets with garlic Conill a la brasa amb allioli: in restaurants are generally
mayonnaise. rabbit with garlic uneventful. The choice may
Costelles de cabrit mayonnaise. be simply ice cream or fruit:
rostides: roast goat Conill amb cargols: apple (poma), peach (préssec),
kid cutlets. rabbit with banana (plàtan), orange
Cuixa de xai al snails. (taronja), grapes (raïm).
forn: roast leg Conill amb Crema catalana: rich egg
of lamb. xocolata: custard.
Estofat de rabbit with Figues amb aniset: figs in
bou: beef stew garlic, liver, anise.
with sausages, almonds, fried Flam: crème caramel.
potatoes, herbs bread, chocolate Formatge: cheese. There is
and sometimes a Aubergines (eggplant) and and old wine. little local cheese.
little chocolate. peppers, used in abundance Estofat de porc Gelat: ice cream.
Estofat de senglar amb Mel i Mató: fresh goat’s
quaresma: a bolets: wild boar casserole cheese, eaten with honey.
filling Lenten vegetable stew. with wild mushrooms. Menjar blanc: an almond
Freginat: calf’s liver with Guatlles amb salsa de blancmange.
onions. magrana: quail in Peres amb vi negre: pears in
Fricandó: braised veal with pomegranate sauce. red wine.
wild mushrooms. Perdiu: partridge. Postre de músic: a bowl of
Llom de porc: pork chops. Perdius amb farcellets mixed nuts and dried fruit,
Oca amb peres: goose with de col: partridge with cabbage once given as a reward to
pears – traditional village dumplings. itinerant musicians.
festival fare. Recuit: curdled sheep’s (or
Niu: a huge fish and meat VERDURES (VEGETABLES) cow’s) milk in a small pot.
stew from Palafrugell, Costa
Brava, with pigeon, cuttlefish, Albergínies: aubergines
cod tripe, pig’s trotters, egg (eggplant).
and garlic mayonnaise. Bledes: chard.
Peus de porc a la llauna: pig’s Bolets: mushrooms.
trotters in a spicy sauce. Calçots: leek-sized green
Pollastre amb samfaina: onions, roasted on an open fire
chicken with samfaina. and dipped in a spicy tomato
Pota i tripa: lamb’s sauce. A spring-time speciality
trotters and tripe. of the Tarragona region.
Tripa a la catalana: tripe in Carbassó arrebossat: battered
sofregit and wine with pine courgettes (zucchini).
nuts and almonds. Carxofes: artichokes.
Xai amb pèsols: lamb Julivert: parsley. Mel i mató – a traditional dessert of
with peas. Mongetes tendres i patates: soft cheese served with honey
146 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

For a three-course evening meal for
one, including a half-bottle of house
The restaurants in this guide have been selected for wine, tax and service.
their good value, food and location. The chart below
¡ under €20
lists restaurants in Barcelona by area, and the entries are ¡¡ €20–€35
alphabetical within each price category. Restaurants in ¡¡¡ €35–€50
¡¡¡¡ over €50.
the Further Afield section are listed by district and those
in the rest of Catalonia are arranged by town.

OLD TOWN

Bar Pinotxo ¤ : ¡

Mercat de la Boqueria (La Rambla 89), 08002 Tel 93 317 17 31 Map 5 A1

The most famous of all the bars in the Boquería. Steel buckets hold chilled bottles of cava, and fresh ingredients
from neighbouring market stalls are cooked and served hot on the spot. The bar is open from early in the morning.
Closed Sun, evenings after 6pm.

Elisabets ¤ : z ¡

C/Elisabets 2, 08001 Tel 93 317 58 26 Map 2 F2

A local institution, this homely bustling restaurant specialises in traditional Catalan cuisine. It is a favourite for diners
in search of hearty, home-cooked midday meals, and Friday night tapas. Elisabets also has a lively bar where you can
have a sandwich or drink at any time of the day. Closed 3 wks Aug (bar); Sun; dinner, except Fri (restaurant only).

Organic :z7 ¡

C/Junta de Comerç 11, 08001 Tel 93 301 09 02 Map 2 F3

Spacious, clean and softly lit, this good-value vegetarian restaurant offers an imaginative menu of Asian dishes,
lasagnes, stews and an all-you-can-eat salad buffet. The home-made bread with nuts is a must. They have a very
reasonably priced set menu. They also have a small shop selling organic products.

Can Culleretes :z7 ¡¡

C/Quintana 5, 08002 Tel 93 317 30 22 Map 5 A2

The oldest restaurant in Barcelona dates from 1786 and oozes history from its many dining rooms, nooks and
crannies. Original frescoes and tiles decorate the walls. Staff are brusque but efficient. Food is cheap, plentiful and
satisfying. Try the goose with apples or duck with prunes. Closed Sun dinner, Mon; 2 wks Aug; 25 Dec.

Inopia : z ¡¡

Carrer de Tamarit 104, 08015 Tel 93 424 52 31 Map 5 D5

It may be off the beaten track, but dedicated foodies should seek out this restaurant. Owner Albert Adrià (brother
of Ferran who runs the famous El Bulli) has gone back to basics, and the bar serves classic tapas prepared with the
finest of local ingredients. Albert also has a sweet shop, Cacao Sampaka (see p156). Closed Sun, Mon.

Kaiku h:z ¡¡

Plaça del Mar 1, 08003 Tel 93 221 90 82 Map 5 B5

You would not know it from the exterior, but this unassuming, beachfront restaurant makes what is probably the
best paella in the city. It is on the menu as arròs del xef, and it is prepared with smoked rice and succulent shellfish.
Book the terrace in summer for sea views and a breeze. Great desserts too. Tue–Sun lunch only. Closed 2 wks Aug.

Mam i Teca :z ¡¡

C/Lluna 4, 08001 Tel 93 441 33 35 Map 2 F2

Tiny, sunflower-yellow bar that plays well-known jazz, blues and rock tunes. The tapas are superb, and include locally
sourced cheeses, organic sausages, and country dishes such as ham and broad beans. They also have an excellent
wine list, and a good range of Scottish single malts. Closed Tue, Sat lunch; 3 wks Aug.

Mosquito :z ¡¡

Carders 46, 08003 Tel 93 268 75 69 Map 5 C2

A laidback bar peopled by a healthy mix of Catalans and resident expats. Friendly staff, cheap drinks and a solid array
of Asian tapas, like home-made Hong Kong dim sum. A full range of Chinese dumplings make this a pleasant change
from the usual tapas joints. Closed Tue and lunchtime.

Pla de la Garsa h:z7 ¡¡

C/Assaonadors 13, 08003 Tel 93 315 24 13 Map 5 B2

Situated in the stables of a 17th-century palace, the cosy atmosphere of this pretty, split-level restaurant makes
it a good place for romantic evenings. For cheese lovers the 40-strong list is a winner. There’s also an interesting
selection of red wines. Closed for lunch daily.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 147

Taller de Tapas :z7Δ ¡¡

C/Argenteria 51, 08003 Tel 93 268 85 59 Map 5 B2

Exposed brick and sleek steel fittings give this restaurant a contemporary urban feel. Staff are professional and
friendly, and the extensive tapas dishes are all freshly made on the spot. You can also try regional dishes such
as the Costa Brava’s cherished Palamos prawns. Peak times can be busy.

Agua h:z7Δ ¡¡¡

Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 30, 08003 Tel 93 225 12 72 Map 6 D4

Classy seafront restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows and abstract fish sculptures. It is popular with a young,
up-beat crowd and serves excellent tapas, fish and rice dishes. Specials include steamed mussels, butan potatoes,
Norway lobsters au gratin and grilled fish. There’s an appealing terrace on the beach as well.

Biblioteca h:z7 ¡¡¡

C/Junta de Comerç 28, 08001 Tel 93 412 62 21 Map 2 F3

Elegant, cream-coloured restaurant-cum-cookbook shop with Modernista tiles and open kitchen. The high-class
cooking focuses on seasonal ingredients. Specialities include rice with pigeon and black pudding; and black spaghetti
with calçots (Catalan onions) and poached egg. Closed Sun and daily for lunch; 2 wks Aug.

Café de l’Academia :zΔ ¡¡¡

C/Lledó 1, 08002 Tel 93 319 82 53 Map 5 B3

An intimate, candle-lit restaurant with exposed brick walls and a pretty terrace in the lovely Plaça Sant Just, in the
centre of Barri Gòti. The menu offers superb Catalan fare, interesting salads and home-made pasta. The desserts
are top-notch. Closed Sat, Sun; 3 wks Aug.

Cal Pep h:z ¡¡¡

Plaça de les Olles 8, 08003 Tel 93 310 79 61 Map 5 B3

Arguably the best bar in town for fresh fish and seafood, right off the boats. Cal Pep has an excellent selection of
tapas. The long, narrow, standing bar means it gets crowded at peak times. Arrive early for one of five tables out
back. Closed Sat dinner, Sun, Mon lunch; Easter; Aug.

Can Majó h:zΔ ¡¡¡

C/Almirall Aixada 23, 08003 Tel 93 221 54 55 Map 5 B5

As places for paella go, this is one of the best especially when eaten on a warm summer’s day on a terrace with sea
views. If you start getting into the shellfish, prices hike right up, but it’s worth it for freshness and quality of produce
cooked to perfection. Closed Sun dinner, Mon.

El Salón :z7 ¡¡¡

C/Hostal d’en Sol 6–8, 08002 Tel 93 315 21 59 Map 5 B3

The Baroque-style interior, plump velvet chairs and grand chandeliers give this establishment the feel of an
18th-century boudoir. The menu changes constantly but promises sumptuous ingredients and inventive dishes,
often featuring French and Catalan specialities. Closed lunch, Sun.

Els Quatre Gats h:zf7 ¡¡¡

C/Montsió 3 bis, 08002 Tel 93 302 41 40 Map 5 A1

This emblematic Barcelona institution was the first place ever to show Picasso’s work. It is decorated by original
works of early 20th-century artists and oozes history. The opulent dining room verges on cheesy but is great fun,
and the Mediterranean fare is reasonable too. There is a good-value fixed price lunch menu.

Euskal Etxea :z7 ¡¡¡

Placeta Montcada 1–3, 08003 Tel 93 310 21 85 Map 5 B3

Home to the Basque Cultural Institute, the Euskal Etxea is one of the best places in town for Basque pintxos
(small rounds of bread with a myriad toppings). It also serves exceptionally good a la carte meals. The tapas bar is
cheaper than the main restaurant.

Set Portes :z7 ¡¡¡

Passeig Isabel II, 14, 08003 Tel 93 319 30 33 Map 5 B3

A long-standing Barcelona institution since 1836 with a who’s who of past guests, including Winston Churchill
and Che Guevara. It is famed for its classic marble tiles and wood-panelled dining room, and most of all for
paella, which comes in ten different varieties. Open all day and until late.

Taxidermista h:zΔ ¡¡¡

Plaça Reial 8, 08002 Tel 93 412 45 36 Map 5 A3

Soft colour schemes and high ceilings give this trendy restaurant an edge over the touristy competition on the
bustling Plaza Reial. Inventive market cooking offers a range of dishes from around the Mediterranean rim including
babaganush, sardine tarts and duck confit. They also serve tapas. Closed Mon; 2 wks Jan.

Carballeira :z7 ¡¡¡¡

C/Reina Cristina 3, 08003 Tel 93 310 10 06 Map 5 B3

This was the first Galician seafood restaurant in Barcelona. Carballeira has become well known for its simply grilled
fish and seafood, perfect paellas and the house special, which consists of Galician-style tender octopus sprinkled with
paprika. Closed Sun dinner, Mon.
148 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Comerç 24 h:z7 ¡¡¡¡

C/Comerç 24, 08003 Tel 93 319 21 02 Map 5 C3

Designer tapas bar with charcoal grey walls and primary colour accents, serving some of the most inventive tapas in
town. A “Festival” of tapas is served for groups of six or more. Try the arròs a banda (paella without the morsels) or
the tortilla de patatas (potato omelette). Reservations necessary. Closed Sun, Mon.

Neri Restaurante hz7 ¡¡¡¡

Carrer Sant Sever 5, 08002 Tel 93 304 06 55 Map 5 A2

Decorated in soft hues and sympathetically lit, the dining room at the Neri hotel is a great spot to take a break from
sightseeing in the Barri Gòtic, even if you are not a guest at the hotel. Classic Mediterranean fare with a modern
twist is the order of the day. A good-value fixed-price lunch menu is available during the week.

EIXAMPLE

Crêperie Bretonne h:z ¡

C/Balmes 274, 08006 Tel 93 217 30 48 Map 3 A1

This kitsch French pancake house has been around for more than 30 years. It serves 250 types of thin, light Brittany-
style crêpes. They offer sweet or salted crêpes and with all kinds of French cheese fillings. Also try their herbal teas.
Closed lunch, Mon; Aug.

Cata 1.81 hz ¡¡

C/València 181, 08011 Tel 93 323 68 18 Map3 A4

Long, thin and blindingly white, this modern tapas bar was one of the pioneers of Post-Modernist tapas, turning
classics like Spanish potato omelette into state-of-the-art taste explosions. The excellent wine list offers many by the
glass. A top choice for those interested in the wonders of New Catalan cuisine. Closed lunch, Sun; 3 wks Aug.

Madrid-Barcelona h:z7 ¡¡

C/Aragó 282, 08007 Tel 93 215 70 27 Map 3 A4

This smart, split-level restaurant with its cast-iron balustrades and polished wood looks more expensive than it is.
It is hugely popular, often with long queues coming out the door, for Málaga-style pescaditos fritos (fried fish)
and other good value tapas. It can get very busy here; booking is recommended.

Shibui :z7 ¡¡¡

C/Comte d’Urgell 272–274, 08036 Tel 93 321 90 04

With its sleek blonde wood fittings, cardboard-brick walls and trim waiting staff, this excellent Japanese restaurant
has Tokyo written all over it. The basement dining room also has custom-made tatami areas and sliding screens
making them a brilliant choice for parties. A gluten-free menu and take-away are also available. Closed Sun.

Alkimia z7 ¡¡¡¡

C/Indústria 79, 08025 Tel 93 207 61 15 Map 3 C2

One of the rising stars, this small, designer restaurant revitalizes traditional Catalan dishes with new techniques and
foreign flavours. Signature dishes include creamy rice with crayfish and nyora peppers, sticky slow-roasted bull tail and
mandarin essence with horchata (tiger-nut) foam. Good value set lunch menu. Closed Sat, Sun; Easter, 3 wks Aug.

Casa Calvet :z7 ¡¡¡¡

C/Casp 48, 08010 Tel 93 412 40 12 Map 3 B5

A beautiful restaurant that was originally designed by Gaudí as a private home and offices for a wealthy textile merchant.
The cozy seating booths, formal table settings and old-school service harken back to another era, however the cooking
is modern and executed with panache. A more economical fixed-price lunch menu is offered. Closed Sun and bank hols.

Cinc Sentits hz ¡¡¡¡

C/Aribau 58, 08011 Tel 93 323 94 90 Map 2 F1

This warm yet minimal Michelin-starred restaurant offers impeccable service and a menu that is both unusual and
accessible. Meticulously sourced products are cooked with flair. The Sensaciones, chef’s choice tasting menu, is
recommended. Kids are welcome during the week and at lunchtime. Closed Sun, Mon; Easter, 2 wks Aug.

Moo hz7 ¡¡¡¡

C/Rosselló 265, 08008 Tel 93 445 40 00 Map 3 A3

Moo has walked away with a string of accolades, thanks to the inspired cooking of the Roca brothers who manage
the restaurant. The tasting menu with matching wines is magical: Dublin bay prawns with rose and licorice, sea bass
with lemon thyme and desserts inspired by perfumes. Very fashionable; reservations are essential. Closed Sun; Aug.

Noti z7 ¡¡¡¡

Carrer de Roger de Llúria 35–37, 08009 Tel 93 342 66 73 Map 3 B4

In a city where style often triumphs over substance, Noti stands out as a glorious exception. The decor is as sophisticated
and glamorous as the crowd, but doesn’t detract from the exceptional food – Mediterranean and French cuisine
prepared with flair and originality. A reasonable fixed-price lunch menu is available. Closed Sat lunch, Sun.

Key to Price Guide see p146 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 149

MONTJUÏC

Rosal 34 7 ¡¡

Carrer Roser 34, 08004 Tel 93 324 90 46 Map 2 D3

An upmarket tapas bar with a smart, bright dining room. Well-heeled diners are attracted by Rosal 34’s
innovative take on classic tapas, alongside original creations of the chef’s own making. There is also an extensive
wine list with some great recommendations. Closed Mon lunch, Sun.

La Font del Gat Δ7 ¡¡¡

Passeig Santa Madrona 28, 08038 Tel 93 289 04 04 Map 1 B3

High up on a hill, La Font del Gat is a short hop from the Fundació Joan Miró and Montjuïc’s other museums. Fare
includes good salads, soups and tapas and there is a reasonably-priced set lunch menu. The greatest attraction here,
however, is the restaurant’s terrace surrounded by trees, that offers great views over the city. Closed dinner; Mon; Aug.

Xemei Δ ¡¡¡

Passeig de la Exposició 85, 08004 Tel 93 553 51 40 Map 1 C3

A small and convivial authentic Italian restaurant run by two brothers. Xemei specialises in dishes from the Venetian
region – the antipasti are particularly good. The restaurant can get quite noisy inside, but there are tables on the
pavement and the customer service is excellent. Closed Tue.

FURTHER AFIELD

GRÀCIA Chido One :z ¡

C/Torrijos 30, 08012 Tel 93 285 03 35 Map 3 C2

Lined floor to ceiling with Mexican Day of the Dead artifacts and trophies, as well as retro jalapeño chilli cans, this
trendy eatery serves excellent regional fare including steaming bowls of heart warming posole, soft fat enchiladas
slathered with chilli sauce, tacos and lethal margaritas.

GRÀCIA Envalira h:z7 ¡¡

Plaça del Sol 13, 08012 Tel 93 218 58 13 Map 3 B1

A real neighbourhood joint in the spirited Plaça del Sol in Barcelona, it’s noisy, raucous and fun with a laidback
anything-goes ambience. Intimate it is not, but it’s a great place for hearty, no-nonsense fare with rice dishes
topping the bill. Closed Sun dinner, Mon; Aug.

GRÀCIA San Kil ¡¡

Carrer Legalitat 22, 08024 Tel 93 284 41 79

The Gràcia area is famous for its range of ethnic restaurants and San Kil is one of the best. The decor is low on frills
and the TV is frequently left on but the Korean food more than makes up for it. A recommended speciality is the
beef cooked on a red-hot iron plate at your table. Closed Sun.

GRÀCIA La Rosa del Desierto :z7 ¡¡¡

Plaça Narcís Oller 7, 08006 Tel 93 237 45 90 Map 3 A2

This was Barcelona’s first ever Moroccan restaurant and is still widely regarded to be the best. With its atmospheric decor
and cushion-covered benches it’s a fun place for couscous and delicious tagines. They have interesting meat dishes,
soups and salads on their menu. Also try one of their typical Arab teas. Closed Sun dinner, Mon; mid-Aug–mid-Sep.

GRÀCIA Botafumeiro h:z7f ¡¡¡¡

C/Gran de Gràcia 81, 08012 Tel 93 218 42 30 Map 3 A2

A legendary seafood restaurant with ice-banks piled high with boat-fresh fish and seafood at the entrance. A-listers
from Woody Allen to Madonna have all made this a favourite haunt whilst in town thanks to discreet management and
luxury surroundings. Try the tender pulpo Gallego (Galician octopus). Eating at the bar is cheaper. Reservations essential.

GRÀCIA Hofmann hz ¡¡¡¡

C/Granada del Penedès 16 Tel 93 218 71 65 Map5 B2

The talented chef Mey Hofmann has been at the forefront of Barcelona’s restaurant scene for many years, so it is no
surprise that her own establishment is the recipient of a Michelin star. Expect high-quality, creative cuisine served in a
sophisticated environment. Hofmann also runs a pastry shop at C/Flassaders 44 in the Born. Closed Sat, Sun; Easter, Aug.

GRÀCIA Roig Robí h:zΔ ¡¡¡¡

C/Sèneca 20, 08006 Tel 93 218 92 22 Map 3 A2

Small and intimate with a pretty interior courtyard for summer dining, this restaurant is a classic for genuine Catalan
cuisine. The menu boasts a good selection of bacalà (salt-cod) dishes as well as typical vegetable dishes of broad
beans and artichokes. Closed Sat lunch, Sun; 3 wks Aug.
150 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

HORTA Can Travi Nou h:7Δ ¡¡¡¡

C/Jorge Manrique, 08035 Tel 93 428 03 01

Few people venture so far from the centre for their supper, but this 14th-century farmhouse is well worth the
trek to soak up the atmosphere of yesteryear, and the rolling terraces are wonderful for alfresco dining. Roast
meats, rice dishes and fresh fish are on the menu. Closed Sun dinner.

POBLENOU Els Pescadors h:z7Δ ¡¡¡

Plaça Prim 1, 08005 Tel 93 225 20 18

The multiple-spaced restaurant – terrace, formal dining room and old-fashioned, tiled cafeteria – is named after
the fishermen that used to frequent it. It’s an excellent place for a catch-of-the-day special, zingy-fresh mussels
and other fishy delights. Try the anxoves (anchovies). Excellent wine list. Closed Easter and Christmas.

SANT GERVASI La Balsa h:Δ ¡¡¡

C/Infanta Isabel 4, 08022 Tel 93 211 50 48

Much-loved by Barcelona’s glitteratti: sportspersons, artists, actors and politicians are all in attendance at this uptown
eatery. Service is discreet, the decor tasteful and the terraces among the best in town for enjoying Basque, Catalan
and Mediterranean food at its finest. Closed Sun dinner, Mon lunch; lunch Aug.

TIBIDABO El Asador de Aranda h:z7Δ ¡¡¡

Avinguda del Tibidabo 31, 08022 Tel 93 417 01 15

A meat-lovers’ paradise, this mansion-house restaurant at the top of the hill specializes in roasts, melt-in-the-mouth
suckling pig and lamb; rich, juicy steaks, chops and ribs; and a fine line in burgos morcillas (black pudding).
They also serve red wines from La Ribera. Closed Sun dinner.

CATALONIA

ALTAFULLA Faristol :Δ ¡¡

C/Sant Martí 5 (Tarragona), 43893 Tel 977 65 00 77

Experience traditional Catalan fare at this charming 18th-century farmhouse. The English-Catalan couple that run it cre-
ate a romantic getaway from the bustle of Barcelona. Rooms are also available. They usually have music on weekend
nights. Mid-Sep–mid-Jun: open only Fri dinner–Sun lunch; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: open daily for dinner and Sat-Sun lunch.

ARENYS DE MAR Hispania h:zΔ7 ¡¡¡¡

Carretera Reial, 54, 08350 Tel 93 791 04 57

A famous bistro that has earned numerous awards for the quality of its cooking. People travel from far and wide
for its clam suquet (fish stew) and home-made crema catalana (traditional vanilla custard with a burnt, caramel
crust). Closed Sun dinner, Tue; Oct.

BERGA Sala :z ¡¡¡¡

Passeig de la Pau 27, 08600 Tel 93 821 11 85

A good choice for hearty winter dishes that feature freshly picked wild mushrooms from the nearby forests, Berga
is mushroom country, and wild game is available in season. Very innovative cuisine. They also have a set tasting
menu. Closed Sun dinner, Mon.

BOLVIR DE CERDANYA Torre del Remei h:z7Δ ¡¡¡¡

Camí Reial (Girona), 17539 Tel 972 14 01 82

One of the region’s finest hotels and restaurants set in a summer palace and surrounded by verdant countryside.
The chef de cuisine uses regional products to create meals such as melting veal cheeks with sweet and sour berry
fruits, fresh scallops in Priorat sauce, desserts and local cheeses.

CAMBRILS Can Bosch :z ¡¡¡¡

Rambla Jaume I, 19, 43850 Tel 977 36 00 19

This is a classic and highly-respected restaurant serving superb fish, seafood and rice dishes. Their arroz negro (rice
cooked in squid ink) is justly famous. Patrons rave about their wine list almost as much as the food. Closed Sun
dinner, Mon; 22 Dec–Jan.

CORÇA Botic z7 ¡¡¡¡

Ctra. C-66 Girona-Palamós Km 11.5, 17121 Tel 972 63 08 69

This restuarant opened by Chef Albert ‘Tito’ Sastregener has a Michelin star and serves creative Catalan fare in elegant
and modern surroundings. There is a very reasonable tasting menu, which consists of two tapas, four starters, two
main dishes and two desserts. The wine list is excellent. Closed Mon and Tue (except Aug); mid-Oct–mid-Nov.

FIGUERES Hotel Empordà h : z Δ ¡¡¡¡

Av. Salvador Dalí 170, 17600 Tel 972 50 05 62

This is a legendary restaurant that played a great part in putting Catalan cuisine on the map for travelling gourmands.
Established in 1961, folks still gather here to enjoy the legacy of chef Jaime Subirós’ cuisine. An excellent fixed-price
menu is available.

Key to Price Guide see p146 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 151

GIRONA El Celler de Can Roca h:z7 ¡¡¡¡

Can Sunyer 46, 17007 Tel 972 22 21 57

Celler de Can Roca offers a fusion of Catalan and French “nouvelle cuisine” cooking. A must on the list of dedicated
food enthusiasts, the brothers Roca turn out innovative, technically brilliant dishes at terrifying speed. With three
Michelin stars, this is a place to wow and be wowed. Closed Sun, Mon, 2 wks Jul; Christmas.

GRATALLOPS Cellers de Gratallops h:z7 ¡¡¡

Piró 32 (Priorat), 43737 Tel 977 83 90 36

This smart village restaurant is owned by the bodega’s Clos l’Obac, one of the pioneers of new Priorat wines
and serves their entire range, along with local olive oils and an excellent Moroccan influenced menu. Well worth
seeking out during a trip to wine country. Open Tue–Sun lunch only.

LA SEU D’URGELL El Castell h:zΔ ¡¡¡¡

Carretera N260 km 229 (Lleida), 25700 Tel 973 35 00 00

At the foot of La Seu d’Urgell castle, surrounded by stunning scenery, lies this idyllic hotel-restaurant. El Castell serves top-
flight modern Catalan cuisine and superlative wines. Many of the dishes include local wild mushrooms from the
Pyrenees and meat from the region. A cheaper menu is served to outside tables. Closed Mon, Tue; 3 wks Jan, 3 wks Nov.

LLEIDA Gardeny h:z7 ¡¡

C/ Salmerón 10, 25004 Tel 973 23 45 10

Excellent regional cooking with a modern twist, including snails Gardeny-style (oven baked), is served at this city cen-
tre restaurant. Specialities include ceps (mushrooms) and cod and Esqueixada with cod and elvers. Offers a good
value set price lunch during the week and a gourmet menu at weekends. Closed Sun and Mon for dinner; Tue.

MANRESA Sibar :z7Δ ¡¡

C/Carrasco i Formiguera 18 (Barcelona), 08242 Tel 93 874 81 71

This modern establishment has a cafeteria on the ground floor for coffee and cakes, and a sleek elegant restaurant
in the basement for formal dining. The chuletón (T-bone steak for a minimum of two people) is superlative, as are
the unlikely sounding fried eggs and potatoes. Regional wines are a must. Closed Christmas.

MARTINET Boix h:z7Δ ¡¡¡¡

Carretera N260 km 204,5 (Lleida), 25724 Tel 973 51 51 01

A famous Catalan hotel-restaurant located on the banks of the Riu Segre. It serves slow-roasted leg of lamb so tender
you could eat it with a spoon, complimented perfectly by a bottle of soft luscious local wine from the Costers del
Segre. Closed Sun dinner, Mon, 2 wks Feb.

PERALADA Castell de Peralada hz ¡¡¡¡

Hotel Castell de Peralada, C/Sant Joan (Girona), 17491 Tel 972 53 81 25

This medieval castle makes for a truly special lunch or dinner. It specializes in traditional Empordàn cuisine while the
castle’s own bodegas provide the wine. As the restaurant is inside a casino, under-18s are not allowed. Kids are
allowed in Jul–Aug when a buffet is served on outside tables. Closed daily for lunch; Sep–May: closed Mon, Tue.

ROSES El Bulli hzΔ ¡¡¡¡

Cala Montjoi, Ap 30 (Girona), 17480 Tel 972 15 04 57

With three Michelin stars, critics and foodies alike believe this bistro to be not only the best in Spain but one of the best
in the world. Super-chef Ferran Adrià is certainly one of the most radical, producing state-of-the-art dishes in a pretty
beachside setting. Reservations required one year in advance. Closed 21 Dec–mid-Jun; closed during 2012 & 2013.

SANT CELONI El Racó de Can Fabes hz7 ¡¡¡¡

C/ de Sant Joan 6 (Barcelona), 08470 Tel 93 867 28 51

Santi Santamaría (three Michelin stars) is one of Spain’s most emblematic chefs and this delightful country restaurant is in
the house where he was born. The seasonal menu is full of delights, based on local fare like wild mushrooms and lamb from
Montseny, rice from the Ebro delta and truffles from Osona. Reservations essential. Closed Sun dinner, Mon and Tue; Jan.

SANT POL DE MAR Sant Pau hz7Δ ¡¡¡¡

C/Nou 10 (Barcelona), 08395 Tel 93 760 06 62

This Michelin-starred restaurant is an hour-long train ride from Barcelona. The bounty of earth and sea make for
some wonderful dishes created from delicate courgette flowers, espardenyes (sea cucumbers) and wild boar. Closed
Mon, Sun, Thu lunch; 3 wks May, 3 wks Nov.

SITGES El Velero :z7Δ ¡¡¡¡

Passeig de la Ribera 38 (Barcelona), 08870 Tel 93 894 20 51

A seaside restaurant whose imaginative creations are a cut above more standard offerings of paella and grilled fish.
Here sole comes on a bed of wild mushrooms and is drizzled with unctuous crab sauce and lobster comes with
chickpea cream. Closed Sun; 22 Dec–22 Jan.

TARRAGONA Degusta h:zΔ ¡¡¡

C/Cavallers 6, 43003 Tel 977 25 24 28

Situated in the old part of town, this restaurant serves innovative Mediterranean dishes and tapas. House specials
include game in season, fresh fish and addictive home-made desserts. There is a pleasant terrace for outside dining,
and a good wine list. Closed Sun; 22 Feb–8 Mar.
152 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Cafés and Bars PRICE CATEGORIES

For a light bite, where
available, for one, including
This section lists the best and most colourful cafés and a half-bottle of house
wine, tax and service.
bars in Barcelona, including both the traditional and the
new and fashionable. Most cafés serve a small selection
of alcoholic drinks as well as soft drinks, and most bars ¡ under €20
¡¡ €20–€35
offer coffee, so customers will nearly always find
something to their liking in any establishment.

OLD TOWN

Barcelona Rouge ¤ ¡

C/Poeta Cabanyes 21, 08004 Tel 93 442 49 85 Map 2 D3

Few people know about this late-night bar, but, it is cherished by those that do. You have to ring a bell to get in,
whereupon a small entrance way opens into a long, velvet-lined corridor guarded by angels to reveal a wide open
space filled with sofas. They do not serve food. Closed Mon, Tue.

Boadas ¤h:z ¡

C/dels Tallers 1, 08001 Tel 93 318 88 26 Map 2 F1

Sophia Loren and other celebrities liked to drink here, and the wall of black and white photographs is testament
to their loyalty. The liveried bar-tenders mix the meanest martinis in town for a grown-up crowd of well-heeled
Catalans and discerning tourists. They do not serve food. Closed Sun.

Bodega La Palma ¡

C/Palma de Sant Just 7, 08002 Tel 93 315 06 56 Map 5 B3

This is an old fashioned, rustic bodega (wine cellar) which resides in the heart of the old city. In keeping with
tradition wine is poured from weathered barrels, and is served in ceramic pitchers. Their selection of tapas is also
recommended. Closed Sun; Easter, Aug.

Caelum :z ¡

C/de la Palla 8, 08002 Tel 93 302 69 93 Map 5 A2

This elegant tearoom is housed in the former women’s baths of the Jewish Quarter (El Call). The intimate, softly-lit
dining room offers tea, infusions and cappuccinos as well as a good range of typical sweetmeats including yemas
(sweet egg yolks), roscos (ring shaped biscuits) and chocolate truffles. Closed Mon morning.

Café Bliss ¡

Plaça Sants Just i Pastor, 08002 Tel 93 268 10 22 Map 5 B2

Hidden away down a tiny side street, on one of the loveliest Gothic squares in the old city, is this delightful café.
Inside are comfy sofas and a range of international magazines and newspapers; outside there is a sunny terrace. It is
perfect for coffee and cakes, light meals or just a romantic drink in the evening.

El Bosc de les Fades ¤h:z7 ¡

Passatge de la Banca 5, 08002 Tel 93 317 26 49 Map 5 A3

Hollow tree trunks, twinkling fairy lights and trickling streams give this unusual bar a fairytale feel. More of a
place for drinks than coffees, it is a must for barflies. Relax and enjoy their selection of cocktails, wine and beer, as
well as delicious coffee concoctions.

El Xampanyet : ¡

C/Montcada 22, 08003 Tel 93 319 70 03 Map 5 B3

This tiny, tiled bar is beloved by Barcelona residents for its cheap glasses of the Catalan champagne, as well as its
excellent montaditos (little sandwiches) and tapas. Seating room is limited and the bar gets rammed, but no trip to
Barcelona is complete without it. Closed Sun dinner, Mon; Aug.

Escribà :zΔ ¡

La Rambla 83, 08002 Tel 93 301 60 27 Map 5 A3

Situated in a whimsical, multi-coloured Modernista building on the southern edge of the Boquería market, this
famed coffee shop is a Barcelona institution and one of the best patisseries in town (they made the wedding cake
for a princess’ wedding). It’s a great place for an atmospheric pick-me-up after a morning spent exploring the stalls.

La Granja ¤: ¡

C/Banys Nous 4, 08002 Tel 93 302 69 75 Map 5 A2

A very bohemian place. Also called La Vaca Lechera (the dairy cow), this is a gorgeously old-fashioned dairy with
cream coloured walls, faded photographs and antique dairy equipment. Thick, custardy hot chocolate is the speciality
here. Perfect for chilly winter mornings. Closed Sun morning.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 153

Marsella ¤ ¡

C/Sant Pau 65, 08001 Tel 93 442 72 63 Map 2 E3

One of the oldest bars in the Barri Xino, the lower part of the Raval, once notorious for its unsavoury characters and
prostitutes, it retains a ravaged charm. Dusty chandeliers and ancient wine bottles evoke a convivial atmosphere
where the drink of choice is the little green fairy (absinthe). They do not serve food here. Open nights only.

Ginger :z ¡¡

C/Palma de Sant Just 1, 08002 Tel 93 310 53 09 Map 5 B3

The folks at Ginger have hit on an inspired formula for their multi-levelled space. There’s a wine bar at one end,
cocktails at the other with banks of soft, squishy armchairs in between. Combined with low lighting, mellow jazz
grooves and delectable tapas, it’s easy to spend an entire evening here. Closed Sun, Mon.

Luz de Gas – Port Vell h:Δ ¡¡

Moll del Dipòsit s/n, 08039 Tel 93 209 77 11 Map 5 B4

This double-decked boat must be one of the most desirable summer haunts in all of Barcelona. Situated on the edge
of the Port Vell harbour, alongside other gin palaces and luxury yachts, it’s fabulous for people-watching over a cool,
iced cava. They also serve tapas. Open Mar–Oct.

Va de Vi :z7 ¡¡

C/Banys Vells 16, 08003 Tel 93 319 29 00 Map 5 B2

With its stone archways, slate-tiled floors and beaten wooden dining tables, this bar has buckets of atmosphere
to add to a cellar that stocks more than 4,000 bottles of wine, cava and liqueurs. It’s also a good place to try
different Spanish cheeses and charcuterie. Perfect for a late-night supper. Opens daily at 6pm.

EIXAMPLE

Cacao Sampaka :z7 ¡

C/Consell de Cent 292, 08007 Tel 93 272 08 33 Map 3 A4

The chocolate emporium of Albert Adrià (master-chef Ferran Adrià’s brother), this is a must for chocolate addicts.
Choose from bonbons made from cocoa beans from different parts of South America, flower, fruit or spice concoctions,
and more bizarre flavours such as anchovy and black olive. (See p156). Closed Sun, Aug morning.

Laie Llibrería Cafè h:zΔ ¡

C/Pau Claris 85, 08010 Tel 93 302 73 10 Map 3 B3

A stylish book shop-cum-café very close to the Plaça de Catalunya, this is a good spot to mull over your purchase
with a cup of gourmet coffee. It also has a pretty interior terrace and offers a good fixed-price lunch menu and
light meals until 9:30pm. Free Wi-fi. Closed Sun.

MONTJUÏC

Quimet i Quimet ¡¡

C/Poeta Cabanyes 25, 08004 Tel 93 442 31 42 Map 2 D3

Widely regarded as Barcelona’s finest tapas bar, Quimet i Quimet is a cramped and tiny bodega with bottles
displayed up to the ceiling and heaps of charm. The speciality is montaditos – delicious combinations mounted
on bread. Be warned there is nowhere to sit and queues can spill onto the pavement. Closed Sun; Aug.

FURTHER AFIELD

GRÀCIA Cafè del Sol ¤h:Δ ¡

Plaça del Sol 16, 08012 Tel 93 415 56 63 Map 3 B1

One of Gràcia’s most famous cafés, it used to be run by Señor Ramón, a passionate pianist. He died some years
ago but his piano still dominates one corner of the room though it is never played. Instead, the stereo plays an
eclectic mix of rock, punk, reggae and blues for music lovers. They also serve tapas.

TIBIDABO Mirabé :z7Δ ¡

C/Manuel Arnús 2, 08035 Tel 93 434 00 35

An elegant lounge bar situated just where the funicular leaves for Tibidabo, the floor-to-ceiling windows offer
fantastic views of the city, while the sprawling terraced gardens are idyllic for drinks in the spring and summer.
They do not serve food.
154 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

SHOPPING IN BARCELONA
B arcelona is sophisticated,
stylish and neatly divided
into distinctive shopping
districts – Passeig de Gràcia for
chi-chi designer stores, the Barri
limited. All shops are closed on
Sunday. There are food markets
as well – 44 in all – for every
barrio, and a scattering of flea
markets such as the Parisian-style
Gòtic for more eclectic antiques Els Encants and the antiques fair
and boutiques, El Born for seri- in Sant Cugat, which has a more
ous fashion divas, and El Raval for Provençal flavour. A convenient
markets and museum shops. way to tour Barcelona’s shops
Though these rules are by no and markets is by taxi or public
means fixed, they do provide a transport. Even though there are
useful rule of thumb and help A Modernista many car parks in the city, there’s
define the city, when time is shop window little point in hiring a car.

they are on the outskirts of the Betty B. Many stores offer

city – south along the Gran Via traditional, fine-quality
towards the airport, and on the tailoring skills and Calzados
Avinguda Meridiana to the Solé, which is situated in the
north – a car is the best way Old Town, specializes in classic
to reach them. hand-made shoes and boots.
The galeries (fashion malls),
built mostly during the affluent SPECIALITY STORES
1980s, are hugely popular.
Bulevard Rosa has hundreds A walk around Barcelona can
of stores selling clothes and reveal a wonderful choice of
accessories. L’Illa is a large, stores selling traditional craft
lively shopping mall containing items and handmade goods
chain stores as well as spe- that in most places have now
Some of the beautifully displayed cialist retailers. Maremagnum been largely replaced by the
confectionery at Escribà has several shops and restau- production line. La Caixa de
rants and is open daily Fang has a good variety of
FOOD AND DRINK including public holidays. Catalan and Spanish ceramics,
among them traditional Catalan
Barcelona’s pastry shops are FASHION cooking pots and colourful
sights in themselves and, with tiles. L’Estanc has everything
its displays of chocolate International fashion labels for the smoker, including the
sculptures, no pastisseria is are found alongside clothes best Havana cigars. La Manual
more enticing or spectacular by young designers on and Alpargatera is an old shoe
than Escribà. Other food around the Passeig de Gràcia. store that specializes in Catalan-
stores also have a great deal Adolfo Domínguez stocks style espadrilles. These are
of character, none more so classically styled clothes for handmade on the premises and
than Colmado Quílez in the men and women; Armand Basi come in all colours. The city’s
Eixample. This wonderful old sells quality leisure and sports- oldest store, Cereria Subirà
place stocks a huge range of wear; and discount designer (see pp54–5), sells candles
hams, cheeses and preserves, fashion is available at in every imaginable form.
in addition to a comprehensive
selection of Spanish and
foreign wines and spirits.

DEPARTMENT STORES
AND ‘GALERIES’

The branch of El Corte Inglés,

Spain’s largest department
store chain, on Plaça Catalunya
is a Barcelona landmark and a
handy place to find everything
under one roof, including plug
adaptors and services like
key-cutting. Other branches
are located around the city.
Barcelona’s hypermarkets also
sell a wide range of goods. As Menswear department in Adolfo Domínguez
 S H O P P I N G I N B A R C E L O N A 155

DESIGN, ART AND

ANTIQUES

If you are interested in modern

design, or just looking for
gifts, you should pay a visit
to Vinçon, the city’s famous
design emporium. Situated in
a Modernista townhouse on
the Passeig de Gràcia, it has
everything for the home,
including beautiful fabrics and
furniture. Another good place
to find contemporary interior
design is Pilma, which sells
furniture, kitchen and bath-
room accessories, upholstery,
carpets, curtains, paintings Mouthwatering fruit stalls in La Boqueria market
and lighting from both local
and international designers the Eixample, while the Barri MARKETS
and architects. Gòtic – especially the Carrer
Most of the commercial art de la Palla and Carrer del Pi – No-one should miss the chance
and print galleries are found is the best place to browse to look around La Boqueria
on Carrer Consell de Cent, in around small but fascinating on La Rambla, one of the most
antiques shops. As well as spectacular food markets in
fine furniture and old dolls, Europe. Antiques are sold in
L’Arca de l’Àvia sells antique the Plaça Nova on Thursdays,
silks and lace, all of which are and cheese, honey and sweets
set out in pretty displays. in the Plaça del Pi on the last
Saturday and Sunday of each
BOOKS AND NEWSPAPERS month from October to May.
On Sunday mornings coin
Most city-centre newsstands and stamp stalls are set up in
sell English-language news- the Plaça Reial. The city’s tra-
papers, but the best stocks of ditional flea market, Encants
foreign papers and magazines Vells (see p99), takes place
are at FNAC at L’Illa and Plaça on Mondays, Wednesdays,
Catalunya. Come In is an Fridays and Saturdays just
The stylishly sparse display of English bookshop that also north of the Plaça de les
furniture at Vinçon sells DVDs and board games. Glòries Catalanes.

DIRECTORY
FOOD AND DRINK El Corte Inglés SPECIALITY Pilma
Avinguda Diagonal 617–19. STORES Avinguda Diagonal 403.
Colmado Quílez Tel 93 366 71 00.
La Caixa de Fang Map 3 A2.
Rambla de Catalunya 63.
L’Illa C/ Freneria 1. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 416 13 99.
Map 3 A4.
Avinguda Diagonal 545–57. Tel 93 315 17 04.
Tel 93 215 23 56. Vinçon
Tel 93 444 00 00.
Cereria Subirà P de Gràcia 96. Map 3 B3.
Escribà Pastisseries Maremagnum Bajada Llibreteria 7. Map Tel 93 215 60 50.
La Rambla 83. Map 2 F4. Moll d’Espanya. 5 B2. Tel 93 315 26 06.
Tel 93 301 60 27. www.maremagnum.es
L’Estanc BOOKS AND
Gran Via de les Corts Via Laietana 4. Map 5 B3. NEWSPAPERS
FASHION
Catalanes 546. Tel 93 310 10 34.
Map 2 E1. Adolfo Domínguez Come In
La Manual
P de Gràcia 89. Map 3 A3. C/Balmes 129. Map 3 A3.
Tel 93 454 75 35. Alpargatera
Tel 93 487 98 01. Tel 93 453 12 04.
C/ d’Avinyó 7. Map 5 A3.
DEPARTMENT Armand Basi Tel 93 301 01 72.
Passeig de Gràcia 49. Map MARKETS
STORES AND
3 A3. Tel 93 215 14 21. DESIGN, ART AND
‘GALERIES’ La Boqueria
Betty B ANTIQUES
La Rambla 101. Map 5 A2.
Bulevard Rosa C/ Rec, 58. Map 5 C3. L’Arca de l’Àvia
Passeig de Gràcia 55. Calçats Solé Carrer dels Banys Nous 20. Encants Vells
Map 3 A4. Carrer Ample 7. Map 5 A3. Map 5 A2. C/ Dos de Maig, P de les
Tel 93 215 83 31. Tel 93 301 69 84. Tel 93 302 15 98. Glòries. Map 4 F5.
156 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Food and Drink

Barcelonans are proud of their culinary heritage including one in El Born
and rightly so. The land produces superlative fruit and one in the Barri Gòtic.
and vegetables, flavourful meats and an astonishing This is the trendiest of the
array of cheeses; the bounty of the sea offers daily chocolate-makers in the
city, with its retro packaging
fresh fish and seafood and the wine-growing regions and fun shapes, including
of the Penedès and the Priorat make some of the chocolate CDs and giant
best value vintages in the world. Less well known keys. Escribà Pastisseries is
are the candy-makers, chocolate shops and more extravagant, sculpting
patisseries, all of which add up to a complete and magnificent cakes, pastries
sophisticated cuisine that is fast becoming the and life-size chocolate models
envy of the world. of famous personalities.
The most gourmet chocolate-
maker however, is Enric
CHARCUTERIE, tumbler of wine is available Rovira. Although a little off
CHEESE AND for the very reasonable price the beaten path, it is worth
DELICATESSENS of €2.50. Formatgeria La Seu’s the journey and effort to see
owner, Katherine McLaughlin, his amazing chocolate
If you can’t join them you can also stocks a small range of re-creations of Gaudì’s
at least take some delicious artisan olive oils. trademark rajoles paving
treats home. Barcelona has For more general food stones and chocolate gift sets
several wonderful stores for products and quintessentially designed by well-known
stocking up on general Spanish canned goods (many Catalan artists. Cacao Sampa-
goodies. The Boqueria, the of which come in wonderful ka is the sweet shop owned
city’s most famous food packaging), Colmado Quílez by Albert Adrià (Ferran
market on La Rambla, is the is a fascinating old place that Adrià’s brother) and offers
obvious place to start, but if stocks just about everything amazing off-the-wall fillings
you prefer to shop without from saffron to ham and of anchovy, black olive and
the hustle and bustle, head sauerkraut. Another inte- blue cheese as well as the
for one of the city’s many resting store in the Eixample more traditional herb, spice
specialist food shops. is Mantequeria Ravell, and floral flavours.
Origins 99.9% in El Born Barcelona’s first proper Those looking to take home
specialises in strictly Catalan delicatessen. Its merchandise more traditionally Spanish
products – jars of small, isn’t strictly Spanish – there sweets try Antiga Casa Mauri
dusky Arbequina olives, Sant are plenty of Italian and for thick bricks of turrón
Joan truffle-scented salt, oils French goods as well – but (Catalan nougat and almond
and vinegars, home-made it does boast the best and pastes) and Caelum for
preserves and artisan charcu- most expensive of everything convent-made sweetmeats
terie. Just around the corner, from pink Himalayan salt to such as yemas (sweetened
La Botifarrería de Santa María explosive pickled guindilla egg yolks) and mazapans
is great for artisan charcuterie peppers from the Basque (marzipan treats). Award-
and a lip-smacking array of country. Its restaurant on the winning patissier Carles
home-made sausages in many first floor, incidentally, is Mampel creates spectacular
intriguing flavours, such as pricey but sublime. cakes, desserts and petit fours
pork and cuttlefish, beef and The Herboristeria del Rei at Bubó. They can be taken
beetroot, lamb and wild isn’t actually a food store, but away or enjoyed at the
mushroom. Then there’s it does contain a formidable adjoining café.
Casa Gispert for top-grade array of medicinal herbs, teas In Papabubble, a gorgeous
dried fruit and nuts as well and honeys. When it opened wood-panelled, marble-tiled
as coffee, which is toasted in 1823, Queen Isabel II shop, you can still occasionally
in-house, and the fabulous decreed that it be supplier to see the sweets being made.
Formatgeria La Seu (closed the royal household and the
August). This is the only handsome marble fountain BAKERIES AND
cheese shop in Spain that that contains a bust of PATISSERIES
stocks exclusively Spanish Linneo, the botanist and
and Catalan cheeses. Prowl famous herbalist, was where Almost every street in the city
around the walk-in dairy and the leeches were kept. features its very own
choose from a great seasonal panadería. Usually open all
collection of cheeses made by CHOCOLATE day, these shops are busiest
small producers. These range AND CANDIES early in the morning and at
from creamy Catalan goat’s around 5pm, snack-time in
cheese, six-month old Man- Swanky chocolate and cake Spain, when you will often
chegos to beech-smoked San shops proliferate mainly in find mothers indulging their
Simóns, that come in the the Eixample, with the kids with after-school treats.
shape of a dunce’s cap. A exception of Xocoa, which Amongst the best of these
tasting of three cheeses and a has branches all over the city, shops is Cusachs, open since
 S H O P P I N G I N B A R C E L O N A 157

1963 and still producing the and wholegrain breads. table wines for around €3 a
traditional Catalan coques. Delicious homemade cakes bottle, to decadently
These can either be sweet or and pizzas are also available, expensive Priorats and Riojas
savoury and are mostly eaten and all products are baked that retail in the region of
on 23 June, the Sant Joan on the premises. €300. Last, but by no means
festival (see p35) and the least, to leave Barcelona
longest day of the year. WINE AND without a bottle of the
Another great panadería CIGARS nation’s beloved Catalan
is Foix de Sarriá on Major champagne (cava) would be
de Sarriá, very well known For sheer scope you can’t verging on the sacrilegious.
for its excellent pastries and beat Lavinia, the biggest wine You can buy it everywhere,
other baked goods. Amongst shop in Spain, with branches but for something truly
its specialities are “royal in Madrid as well as in Paris, special head for Xampany,
cake”, sachertorte panellets which stocks thousands of which specialises in artisan
(round marzipan cakes), labels from all over the cavas from the Penedès
pasta de té (fruit biscuits) world. Choice comes at a wine-producing region. The
and saras (sponge cake price, however, and you will ultimate place for cigar-lovers
covered with butter cream get better deals downtown. and pipe smokers is Gimeno.
and almonds). In El Born, Vila Viniteca sells This legendary purveyor of
For the best breads in town, a formidable range of all things tobacco-related
visit Barcelona Reykjavic, Spanish and Catalan wines also stocks a fine range of
which sells artisan, organic ranging from cheap, cheerful Cuban havanas.

DIRECTORY
CHARCUTERIE, Mantequeria Enric Rovira Cusachs
CHEESE AND Ravell Avinguda Josep Bailén 223,
DELICATESSENS C/Arago 313. Tarradellas 113, Eixample
Map 3 A4. Eixample. Map 3 C2.
La Botifarrería Tel 93 457 51 14. Tel 93 419 25 47. Tel 93 213 77 29.
de Santa María Origins 99.9% Escribà Foix de Sarriá
Carrer Santa C/Vidrieria 6-8, Pastisseries
Major de Sarriá 57.
María 4. Map 5 B3. Born. La Rambla 83,
Tel 93 203 07 14.
Tel 93 310 75 31. Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 319 97 84. Fax 93 280 65 56.
Map 5 A1.
Casa Gispert CHOCOLATE Tel 93 301 60 27.
WINES AND
AND CANDIES
C/Sombrerers 23, Papabubble CIGARS
Born. Antiga Casa C/Ample 28,
Gimeno
Mauri Barri Gòtic.
Map 5 B3. La Rambla 100.
C/Flassanders 32. Map 5 A3.
Tel 93 319 75 35. Map 5 A1.
Map 5 C2. Tel 93 268 86 25.
Tel 93 318 49 47.
Colmado Quílez Tel 93 310 04 58. Xocoa
Rambla de Catalunya 63, C/Vidreria 4, Lavinia
Bubó
Born. Av. Diagonal 605,
Eixample. C/Caputxes 10,
Map 5 A3. Map 5 B2. Eixample.
Map 3 A3.
Tel 93 268 72 24. Tel 93 319 79 05. Map 3 A2.
Tel 93 215 23 56.
C/Princesa 10, Born. Tel 93 363 44 45.
Cacao Sampaka Tel 93 319 66 40.
Formatgeria La Seu Vila Viniteca
C/Consell de C/Petritxol 11–13.
C/Dagueria 16, Cent 292, C/Agullers 7–9,
Tel 93 301 11 97.
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A2. Eixample. Born.

Tel 93 412 65 48. Map 3 A4. BAKERIES Map 5 B3.

Tel 93 272 08 33. AND PATISSERIES Tel 93 268 32 27.
Herboristeria
Caelum Barcelona Xampany
del Rei
C/Palla 8, Reykjavic C/Valencia 200,
C/ del Vidre 1, Eixample.
Barri Gòtic. Doctor Dou 25.
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A2. Map 5 A2. Map 2 F2. Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 318 05 12. Tel 93 301 69 93. Tel 93 302 09 21. Tel 93 453 93 38.
158 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Clothes and Accessories

The streets of Barcelona are paved with clothing outlets specialises in more recent
and dedicated followers of fashion may be surprised to fashions dating from the
learn that the city can hold its own against any in New 1960s and 70s as well as
York, London or Paris. With cutting-edge, home-grown brightly-patterned curtains,
fur-lined leather jackets,
Catalan designers such as Antonio Miró and Custo, Chinese dresses and other
high-street fashion chains such as Mango and Zara, and items such as vintage
literally thousands of unique boutiques, Spanish fashion sportswear.
is currently one of the most exciting in the world.
HIGH STREET AND SPORTS
JEWELLERY, BAGS AND their books and stocks mainly FASHION
ACCESSORIES jewellery as well as scarves
and bags in materials as Ubiquitous Spanish fashion
Bags, jewellery, hats and diverse as buttons, zips and houses Zara and Mango have
other baubles are essential beads to white gold, wood stores all over town. Both
to serious style divas and and platinum. This is also a flagships are on the Passeig
Barcelona has plenty of tiny, good place to check out the de Gràcia and they are great
Aladdin’s Cave-type shops to latest talent from the Massana for good value basics, work-
help create the perfect outfit. School of Art. wear and fashionable party
Fet amb Love (Made with Love) dresses. Both also offer a
is a tiny shop in the Passeig SPANISH AND decent range of menswear.
del Born that sells colourful, INTERNATIONAL For slightly more upmarket
handmade jewellery and DESIGNER LABELS tastes both Massimo Dutti
accessories that the owners and Adolfo Domínguez are
Ana and Carmen source from Josep Font, one of the most reliable suppliers of more
all over the world. They also awarded Catalan designers, classical tailoring, smart
sell their own designs, which offers truly unique skirts, casuals and practical items
include Japanese silk hairpins dresses and long-pants for such as ties and belts.
and party handbags. Rafa Teja the elegant female customer. More individual fashion is
Atelier makes exquisite El Born has plenty of stores best sought out in the smaller,
embroidered jackets, selling a top range of designer independent shops of El Born
patchwork scarves, appliqué labels, including M69 for the and the Barri Gòtic. Carrer
handbags and hand-painted boys with seasonal collections d’Avinyo in the Old Town
silk kerchiefs in sumptuous from Paul Smith, Bikkembergs inspired the young Picasso to
fabrics, textures and colours. and Vivienne Westwood paint and today’s hip young
Take your own piece of among others. things to shop. A lively street
Barcelona streetlife home – Avenida Diagonal and the with a market ambience, it is
literally – with a Demano Passeig de Gràcia, however, particularly good for indepen-
handbag from stockists all over are the true homes of fashion- dent clothing stores and
town, including Vinçon (see istas, with all the big labels essential sportswear – Adidas,
p155) and Iguapop Gallery. such as Chanel, Carolina Puma and Nike. For gorgeous,
These innovative designs have Herrera, Gucci and Yves original women’s clothes and
been produced in conjunction Saint Laurent as well as footwear by Spanish designers,
with designers Marcela Man- Loewe for luxury luggage try Como Agua de Mayo. The
rique, Liliana Andrade, Eleon- and Pelleteria La Sibèria for designs are feminine and
ora Parachini and the City prêt-a-porter and custom- floaty yet supremely stylish
Hall in an endeavour to recy- made designers in suede, and contemporary. Desigual
cle the waste material (poly- nappa and fur. is good for urban casuals,
ester PVC) from banners and while Doshaburi stocks the
placards used to announce SECOND HAND AND largest selection of vintage
the cultural events in the city. VINTAGE FASHION Levis in Spain as well as the
0,925 is housed in the more quirky Japanese labels.
stables of the 13th-century Diminutive Carrer Riera Baixa Custo, the most famous of
Palau Cerbello, which also in El Raval is Barcelona’s Barcelona’s local designers,
comprises part of the Museu answer to London’s Carnaby has two shops in the old city,
Picasso. It sells a good range Street with its own Saturday both are piled high with his
of unusual, hand-made market (opening times, trademark brightly printed
jewellery in silver, gold, however, can be erratic) and T-shirts and mismatched
titanium and palladium several wonderful shops. coats and skirts.
created by 20 or so different The theatre-turned vintage Finally, football fans can
Spanish and Catalan design- shop, Lailo, sells anything head for FC Barcelona’s
ers. Another good bet for from collectable costumes official stores, the Botiga del
unique pieces is Hipòtesi. from the Liceu opera house Barça. They stock all kinds of
Started a couple of decades and vintage dresses to 1950s merchandise related to the
ago, today the store has around bathing suits. Across the sport, including stripes,
650 different designers on road is Mies & Felj which carves, boots and balls.
 S H O P P I N G I N B A R C E L O N A 159

HATS AND SHOES espadrilles and straw hats. materials and in a wide
Another shop, Casas Sabaters, choice of colours. Vialis is
Patterned leather shoes and has several branches around another local brand, the first
decorative soles from the cult town, all offering a top quality shop opening in El Born in
Mallorcan shoe-maker Camper range of leading Spanish 1998. The shoes are unusual,
can be purchased for around footwear brands. They are beautifully made and very
25 per cent less in Barcelona also good for last-minute sale comfortable. The collection
than other places in Spain. La items and last-season’s knock- of trainers is also popular.
Manual Alpargatera is another offs. Muxart is a Barcelona- The old-fashioned hat shop
cult classic, beloved by based local brand that only Sombrereria Obach sells all
sardana dancers (Catalonia’s sells at its own stores. It sells the classics ranging from
national dance) and celebrities some of the most amazing, Basque berets to stetsons,
alike for his exquisite hand- original and pricey shoes, trilbys and hand-woven
made, individually fitted handcrafted from the finest Montecristi Panamas.

DIRECTORY
JEWELLERY, Chanel HIGH STREET Zara
BAGS AND Passeig de Gràcia 70, AND SPORTS Passeig de Gràcia 16,
ACCESSORIES Eixample. FASHION Eixample.
Map 3 A4.
0,925 Tel 93 488 29 23. Adolfo Dominguez Map 3 A5.
C/ Montcada 25, Passeg de Gràcia 32, Tel 93 318 76 75.
Gucci
Born. Eixample.
Passeig de Gràcia 76,
Map 5 B3. Map 3 A5. HATS AND
Eixample.
Tel 93 319 43 18. Map 3 A3. Tel 93 487 41 70. SHOES
www.albertolobo.com Tel 93 416 06 20. Botiga del Barça Camper
Josep Font Maremàgnum
Demano Plaça Ângels con
C/ Provença, 304, (Moll d’Espanya).
Pallars 94, 7, 1a. C/Elizabets,
Eixample. Map 5 A4.
Map 6 E2. Map 3 A3. Tel 93 225 80 45. El Raval.
Tel 93 300 4807. Tel 93 487 21 10. Map 2 F2.
Como Agua de
http://demano.net Loewe Tel 93 342 41 41.
Mayo
Fet amb Love Passeig de Gràcia 35. C/Argenteria 43. Casas Sabaters
Map 3 A4. Map 5 B3.
Passeig del Born 2, C/Portaferrissa 25.
Tel 93 216 04 00. Tel 93 310 64 41.
Born. Map 5 A2.
Map 5 B3. M69 Custo
C/Rec 28. Map 5 C3. Tel 93 302 11 32.
Tel 93 319 66 42. Plaça de les Olles 7.
Tel 93 310 42 36.
Map 5 B3. La Manual
Hipòtesi www.m69barcelona.com
Tel 93 268 78 93. Alpargatera
Rambla de Pelleteria La
Desigual C/D’Avinyó 7,
Catalunya 105, Sibèria
C/Argenteria 65, Barri Gòtic.
Eixample. Rambla de Catalunya 15,
Eixample. Born. Map 5 A3.
Map 3 A3.
Map 3 A5. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 301 01 72.
Tel 93 215 02 98. Tel 93 317 05 83. Tel 93 310 30 15.
Muxart
Rafa Teja Yves Saint-Laurent Doshaburi Rambla de Catalunya 47.
Atelier Passeig de Gràcia 102. C/Lledó 4-6,
Map 3 A3. Map 3 A5.
C/Sta. Maria 18, Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 200 39 55. Map 2 F2. Tel 93 467 74 23.
Born.
Map 5 B3. Tel 93 319 96 29. Sombrereria
SECOND HAND
www.doshaburi.com
Tel 93 310 27 85. AND VINTAGE Obach
FASHION Mango Carrer del Call 2.
SPANISH AND
Passeig de Gràcia 65. Barri Gòtic.
INTERNATIONAL Lailo
DESIGNER LABELS Map 3 A4.
C/Riera Baixa 20, El Raval. Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 215 75 30.
Map 2 F2. Tel 93 318 40 94.
Carolina Herrera Tel 93 441 37 49. Massimo Dutti
Passeig de Gràcia 87, Passeig de Gràcia (corner Vialis
Mies & Felj
Eixample. Gran Via), Eixample. C/Vidreria 15.
C/Riera Baixa 4, El Raval.
Map 3 A3. Map 2 F2. Map 3 A5. Map 5 B3.
Tel 93 272 15 84. Tel 93 442 07 55. Tel 93 412 01 05. Tel 93 313 94 91.
160 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Speciality Stores
Part of the fun of getting to know Barcelona is to traditional lavender to delicious
meander through the Old Town’s rabbit-warren-like chocolate. Natura is ideal for
streets, or to explore the wide boulevards of the cheap and chic presents such
Eixample. Both the areas have a wonderful choice of as groovy candy-striped socks,
duvet slippers, Chinese-style
stores selling traditional crafts and hand-made goods notepads and other Oriental
that in many places have been replaced by the toys and trinkets. For the
production line. The endless array of shops are a Don Juan in your life, La
dazzling sight in themselves and even if you are just Condonería (the condom
window-shopping, it’s well worth taking a proper look emporium) stocks all manner
around to see the merchandise on offer. of rubber delights in every
shape, size, colour and
ART AND ANTIQUES BOOKS, MUSIC, DVDS flavour imaginable. Cereria
AND STATIONERY Subirà is a gorgeous shop,
Antiques aficionados and and the city’s oldest, dating
collectors will be richly Barcelona is a wonderful city back to 1761. Today, it sells a
rewarded by what Barcelona for unearthing intriguing phenomenal array of deco-
has to offer. The equivalent of knick-knacks and unique, rative and votive candles in
an antiques shopping mall, one-of-a-kind gifts that numerous shapes and sizes,
Bulevard dels Antiquaris is people will treasure forever. including some several feet
home to over 70 shops Papirvm is an old fashioned tall for dramatic effect. El Rei
brimming over with relics stationery store, piled high de la Màgia is another
from the past. These can with beautiful fountain pens, golden-oldie, founded in
range from ancient coins and leather-bound and William 1881. It reveals a world of
alabaster statues to tin drums, Morris print notepads, and fairytale magic for budding
Regency-period candelabras even feather quills as well as magicians. Nearby, Arlequí
and assorted bric-a-brac. retro Boqueria waiters pads. Màscares creates traditional
Carrer del Call, the old Jewish Altaïr is arguably Spain’s hand-painted folk masks out
quarter in the Barri Gòtic, is finest specialist travel book- of papier-mâché, including
another hub for collectors shop stocking a stupendous Italian Commedia dell’arte
with plush shops, such as range of armchair reads, masks, glossy French party
L’Arca de l’Àvia, which sells maps, travel guides and masks, grotesque Catalan
antique lace and linens, old coffee-table books for anyone gigantes (giant heads used in
dolls and fine furniture, who lives and loves to move. local festivals), Greek tragedy
Heritage, a purveyor of semi- But if you’re just looking for and Japanese Noh masks.
precious stone jewellery, some holiday reading try the
antique silks and textiles and Casa del Llibre, Barcelona’s LINGERIE AND PERFUMES
the odd mink stole, and biggest bookstore for English
Gemma Povo for decorative language novels, magazines, The French chain Sephora
antique iron work. Also check travel guides, maps and stocks a wide selection of
out several shops belonging glossy coffee-table books. brand-name perfumes and
to Artur Ramon on Carrer de Thanks to the wide influence cosmetics, often cheaper than
la Palla (all bear his name) for of Barcelona’s annual those at the airport. La Galería
18th- and 19th-century electronic music festival, de Santa María Novella is the
glassware and ceramics and Sónar (see p163), the city has Barcelona outlet of the famous,
paintings dating back to the become a hot spot for music luxury apothecary in Florence,
14th century. Tandem collectors. Wah Wah Records which has produced artisan
specialises in a wonderful and El Raval in general are perfumes and colognes since
range of tawny, old globes. good for stocking up on the 1400. Customers are captivated
Barcelona’s oldest and most latest club tunes and old vinyl, by the scent of flowers, spices
prestigious art gallery is Sala while Herrera Guitars is a safe and fruits as they enter the
Parés, which exhibits serious bet for anyone in the market store. The shop also sells
Catalan artists, both past and for a hand-made classical cosmetics and herbal remedies.
present. For keepsake wall Spanish guitar. Commissions This kind of luxury does not
hangings that won’t break the are accepted. come cheap, however.
bank, try the Boutique Galería Le Boudoir is decked out
Picasso for prints, lithographs, UNUSUAL GIFTS AND like an 18th-century love nest
posters and postcards by the KNICK-KNACKS complete with brass bed,
great Spanish masters, Miró, gilded mirrors, velvet drapery
Picasso and Dalí. Espai Ras is El Born and the Barri Gòtic and love poetry inscribed on
a gallery space that houses are treasure troves, at once the walls. It is also the sexiest
architecture, contemporary delightful and inspiring. shop in Barcelona for lace
art, video installations and Sabater Hnos. Fábrica de and silk lingerie, nightgowns,
graphic design exhibitions. Jabones sells homemade fluffy mules and furry
There is also a comprehensive soaps, which come in all handcuffs as well as tasteful
bookshop to browse through. shapes and smells, from sex toys and aphrodisiacs.
 S H O P P I N G I N B A R C E L O N A 161

For more conventional started Zara Home with four upper-class apartment, its
underwear, the quality Spanish basic styles in its collection: vast space is filled with
chain Women’s Secret goes in classic, ethnic, contemporary everything from French Le
for a funky line of candy- and white, all at very reason- Creuset cookware to Basque
coloured bra and pants sets, able prices. Wa Was, on the chiquito straight-edged
swimwear and hip pyjamas. other hand, is more quirky, tumblers, silk bean bags and
stocking neon-coloured lamps, futons. The old-fashioned
INTERIORS decorative objects and cook- clientele is more inclined
ing tools. They also sell towards Coses de Casa. This is
L’Appartement is an eclectic original postcards of Barcelona. a superb place for handmade
gallery and shop that exhibits Fans of gizmos and gadgets patchwork quilts, feminine
and sells furniture ranging from will enjoy Vinçon. This is the rosebud prints and Laura
funky lamps to cool folding mecca of Barcelona’s design Ashley-style floral designs
armchairs. The Zara brand stores. Housed in a 1900 for lovers of chintz.

DIRECTORY
ART AND Heritage Wah Wah Records LINGERIE AND
ANTIQUES C/Banys Nous 14, Barri Riera Baixa 14, PERFUMES
Gòtic. Map 5 A2. El Raval.
L’Arca de L’Àvia Le Boudoir
Tel 93 317 85 15. http://
C/Banys Nous 20, Map 2 F2. C/Canuda 21.
heritagebarcelona.com
Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 442 37 03. Map 5 A1.
Map 5 A2. Sala Parés Tel 93 302 52 81.
Tel 93 302 15 98. C/Petritxol 5, UNUSUAL GIFTS www.leboudoir.net
Barri Gòtic. AND KNICK-KNACKS
Artur Ramon La Galería de Santa
Map 5 A2.
Col. leccionisme María de Novella
C/Palla 23, Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 318 70 20. Arlequí Màscares
C/Espasería 4. Map 5 B3.
Map 5 A2. Tandem C/ Princesa 7.
Tel 93 268 02 37.
Tel 93 302 59 70. C/Banys Nous 19, Map 5 B2.
Regia
Artur Ramon Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 268 27 52.
Passeig de Gràcia 39.
Antiquari Map 5 A2. www.arlequimask.com
Map 3 A2–A5.
C/Palla 25, Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 317 44 91.
Cereria Subirà Tel 93 216 01 21.
Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 302 59 70.
BOOKS, MUSIC, Baixada Llibreteria 7. Women’s Secret
DVDS AND Map 5 A2. C/Portaferrissa 7, Barri
Artur Ramon STATIONERY Gòtic. Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 315 26 06.
Mestres Antics Tel 93 318 92 42.
C/Palla 10, Barri Gòtic. Altaïr La Condonería
Map 5 A2. Gran Via 616, INTERIORS
Placa Sant Josep Oriol 7,
Tel 93 301 16 48. Eixample.
Barri Gòtic. L’Appartement
Tel 93 342 71 71.
Boutique Galería Map 5 A2. C/Enric Granados 44.
www.altair.es
Picasso Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 302 77 21.
Tapineria 10. Casa del Llibre Tel 93 452 29 04.
Map 5 B2. Passeig de Gràcia 62, Natura
Tel 93 310 49 57. Eixample. C/Argenteria 78,
Coses de Casa
Map 3 A4. Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 5,
Bulevard dels Born.
Tel 93 272 34 80. Barri Gòtic. Map 2 F2.
Antiquaris Map 5 B2. Tel 93 302 73 28.
Passeig de Gràcia. Herrera Guitars Tel 93 268 25 25.
Map 3 A2–A5. C/Marlet 6, Vinçon
Tel 93 215 44 99. Barri Gòtic. El Rei de la Màgia Passeig de Gràcia 96.
Map 5 A2. Carrer de la Princessa 11. Map 3 A3.
Espai Ras
Tel 93 302 66 66. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 215 60 50.
Doctor Dou 10.
Map 2 F2. www.herreraguitars.com Tel 93 319 39 20. Wa Was
Tel 93 412 71 99. Carders 14,
Papirvm Sabater Hnos.
www.rasbcn.com C/Baixada de la
Born. Map 5 B3.
Fábrica de Jabones Tel 93 319 79 92.
Gemma Povo Llibreteria 2,
Pl. Sant Felip Neri 1,
C/Banys Nous 5, Barri Gòtic. Zara Home
Map 5 A2. Barri Gòtic.
Barri Gòtic. Rambla de Catalunya 71.
Map 5 A2. Tel 93 310 52 42. Map 5 B2. Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 301 34 76. www.papirum-bcn.com Tel 93 301 98 32. Tel 93 487 49 72.
162 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTERTAINMENT IN BARCELONA
B arcelona has one of the
most colourful and alter-
native live arts scenes in
Europe, offering a smörgasbord
of entertainment, from the gilded
there’s also much to see simply by
walking around. Street perform-
ance ranges from the human
statues on La Rambla to
excellent classical, ragtime and
Liceu opera house and the jazz buskers in the plazas. In
spectacular Modernista addition, there are a series of
masterpiece Palau de la weekend-long musical and arts
Música Catalana, to small fiestas that run throughout
independent theatres hosting the year, many of which now
obscure Catalan comedies Busker in the attract an international audience of
and dark Spanish dramas. But Barri Gòtic people from all over the world.
theatre and concert tickets is MUSIC
to buy them at the box office,
although tickets for many Barcelona’s Modernista Palau
theatres can also be bought de la Música Catalana (see
from branches of the Caixa p63) is one of the world’s
de Catalunya and La Caixa most beautiful concert halls,
savings banks, or from Servi with its stunning interior
Caixa machines. The Ticket decor and world-renowned
Ramblas central point in the acoustic. Also inspiring is
Virreina Palace (Rambla 99) the L’Auditori de Barcelona
also offers 50 per cent dis- (see p166), which gives the
counted theatre tickets from city two modern halls for
3 hours before the show. large-scale and chamber
Grec festival tickets are sold concerts. Its reputation was
at tourist offices. considerably bolstered
when it became the home
FILM AND THEATRE of the Orquestra Simfònica
The magnificent interior of the de Barcelona.
Palau de la Música Catalana The Mercat de les Flors The Liceu opera house,
(see p164) is an exciting known for operatic excellence,
ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES theatre which focusses on came back from a fire that
contemporary dance and destroyed the building in 1994
The most complete guide to theatre. The adjoining Teatre and has been operating at full
what’s going on each week in Lliure presents high-quality octave level ever since.
Barcelona is Guía del Ocio, productions of classic and Big names like David Byrne
out every Thursday. The Fri- modern plays in Catalan. and Paul McCartney have
day La Vanguardia also has a The new Teatre Nacional de performed at Razzmatazz
good entertainment supple- Catalunya (see p99), next to (see p166). Jazz venues
ment, Què Fem?, and there is the Auditori de Barcelona, include the Harlem Jazz Club
a weekly Catalan edition of is another fine showcase (see p166) and Jamboree
Time Out. for Catalan drama. The main (see p166), and salsa fans will
venue for classical ballet is enjoy a quick slink down to
SEASONS AND TICKETS the Liceu opera house. Antilla Barcelona.

Theatre and concert seasons

for the main venues run from
September to June, with
limited programmes at other
times. The city’s varied menu
of entertainment reflects its
rich multi-cultural artistic
heritage. In summer the city
hosts the Grec Festival de
Barcelona (see p35), a show-
case of international music,
theatre and dance, held at
open-air venues. There is also
a wide variety of concerts to
choose from during Septem-
ber’s Festa de la Mercè (see
p36). The simplest way to get Outrageous stage show at one of Barcelona’s many clubs
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 163

(see p152) for sparkling AMUSEMENT PARK

wine and tapas. El Bosc de les
Fades is the café of the wax In summer, Barcelona’s giant
museum and is imaginatively amusement park on the sum-
decorated like a fairy’s mit of Tibidabo (see p98) is
woodland grotto. usually open till the early
hours at weekends, but also
FESTIVALS busy on other days. It is even
more fun if you travel there
During the summer, the by tram, funicular or cable car.
streets are alive with outdoor
festivals, performances and SPORTS
music. The Festival del Sónar,
in June, began in an experi- The undoubted kings of sport
mental manner as a place to in Catalonia are FC Barcelona,
showcase the latest musical known as Barça. They have
Auditorium of the Teatre Nacional talents of Southern European the largest football stadium in
de Catalunya youth using new technologies. Europe, Camp Nou, and a
The Clàssic als Parcs, in June- fanatical following (see p95).
NIGHTLIFE July, is a good bet for a more Barcelona also has a high-
serene entertainment. ranking basketball team.
Among Barcelona’s most
famous modern sights are the
hi-tech designer bars built in
the prosperous 1980s, for
example the Mirablau, which
looks over the city. The Torres
de Àvila, in the Poble Espanyol
(see p89), is the height of post-
Modernism. Otto Zutz has
regular DJs and the less chic
but still fun Apolo has live
music. Elephant is located in a
beautiful Modernista villa and
attracts a fashionable crowd.
Two of the best-known bars
are in the old city: Boadas for
cocktails and El Xampanyet Packed house at the gigantic Camp Nou stadium

DIRECTORY
FILM AND Palau de la Música Mirablau Classic als Parcs
THEATRE Catalana Plaça Doctor Andreu. Information Parcs i Jardins
Carrer de Sant Pere Mès Tel 93 418 58 79. Tel 010 (from Barcelona).
Liceu Alt s/n. Map 5 B1.
La Rambla 51–59. Map 2 Tel 90 244 28 82. Otto Zutz Festival del Sónar
F3. Tel 93 485 99 00. Carrer de Lincoln 15. Palau de la Virreina.
Teatre Lliure NIGHTLIFE Map 3 A1. www.sonar.es
Passeig de Santa Madrona, Tel 93 238 07 22. ServiCaixa
Apolo
40–46. Map 1 B3. Tel 90 233 22 11.
Carrer Nou de la Torres de Àvila
Tel 93 289 27 70. Rambla 113. Map 2 E3. www.servicaixa.com
Poble Espanyol, Avinguda
Teatre Nacional Tel 93 441 40 01. del Marqués de Comillas. Telentrada
de Catalunya www.sala-apolo.com Map 1 A1. Tel 90 210 12 12.
Plaça de les Arts 1. Map 4 Boadas Tel 93 424 93 09. www.telentrada.com
F5. Tel 93 306 57 00. Carrer dels Tallers 1.
El Xampanyet
Map 5 A1. AMUSEMENT PARK
MUSIC Tel 93 318 88 26. Carrer Montcada 22.
Map 5 B2. Tibidabo
L’Auditori de El Bosc de les Fades Tel 93 319 70 03. Tel 93 211 79 42.
Barcelona Pasatge de la Banca.
Carrer de Lepant 150. Map Tel 93 317 26 49.
FESTIVALS SPORTS
6 E1. Tel 93 247 93 00.
Elephant
Antilla Barcelona Passeig dels Til.lers 1, Grec Festival de FC Barcelona
Carrer de Aragó 141–143. Tibidabo. Barcelona Camp Nou, Avinguda
Tel 93 451 45 64. Tel 93 334 02 58. www.barcelonafestival. Aristides Maillol.
www.antillasalsa.com www.elephantbcn.com com Tel 93 496 36 00.
164 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Film and Theatre

Large, multiscreen complexes as well as smaller, where for the price of
more intimate venues today screen a variety of films, a beer you can watch a
catering to all tastes. As a result, Barcelona now film on a small screen on
hosts several film festivals through the year. Theatre, a hardbacked school play-
on the other hand, dates back to medieval times and ground chair. For children,
there is the IMAX Port Vell,
the city’s productions have evolved to become the which shows the usual
most cutting-edge in Spain. Although language 3-D roller-coaster knuckle-
may be a problem, it’s well worth seeing a theatrical biters, Everest expeditions
production. If not, there are always many dinner- and squid entangled
shows to interest non-purists. journeys to the bottom
of the sea.
FILM this is a great place to It’s worth knowing that
watch the latest releases. all cinemas have a dia de
Directors such as Alejandro For something a bit more l’espectador, usually Monday
Amenábar (The Others), risqué, try the Renoir night, when tickets are
Catalan writer and director Floridablanca, a relatively reduced. Weekend matinées
Isabel Coixet (My Life Without new cinema on the edge are also usually cheaper.
You) and, of course, Spain’s of El Raval and the Eixample.
bad boy of film, Pedro It screens a range of THEATRE AND DANCE
Almodóvar (All About My European and international
Mother, Bad Education, movies (subtitles are usually Although English language
Volver) have revitalised in Spanish or Catalan). In productions are still in short
Spanish cinema. Today Gràcia, Verdi and Verdi Park supply, there are some
Barcelona itself has become are also good for more rather good independent
the venue for independent independent movie-making groupsthat perform at the
film festivals and the biggest as well as an interesting Llantiol Teatre in El Raval.
event of the year is the selection of foreign films. However, many Catalan
Festival Internacional de They also occasionally have and Spanish productions
Cinema de Catalunya, held small, themed film festivals are well worth seeing,
in Sitges in October. that include shorts by new regardless of the language
Most Spanish cinemas dub local talent. During the constraints. Theatre groups
films into Spanish or Catalan, summer, both the Castell Els Comediants and
but there are an increasing de Montjuïc (see p89) and La Cubana, in particular,
number of VO (original the Piscina Bernat Picornell, offer a thrilling mélange of
version) venues that screen the Olympic swimming theatre, music, mime and
not only Hollywood block- pool in Montjuïc, host elements from traditional
busters, but also film noir a number of open-air Mediterranean fiestas.
and independent art house cinema screenings. The tiny Llantiol stages
movies. The Centre de The Catalan government’s a repertoire, that changes
Cultura Contemporània repertory cinema, the weekly, of alternative
(CCCB) has provided a focal Filmoteca de la Generalitat shows, comedy, magic
point for modern Barcelona de Catalunya (closed August), and other off-the-cuff
since its opening in 1995, screens an excellent range performances designed
and, has played an integral of films over a period of two to attract a mixed crowd
part in the rejuvenation of or three weeks before the from the city’s growing
El Raval. The CCCB serves as schedule changes. The line- expatriate community to
a crossroads of contemporary up encompasses anything local arts lovers. Similarly,
culture with cutting-edge from obscure, bleak Eastern the L’Antic Teatre, on the
art exhibits, lectures and European epics to up-beat other side of town, is a
film screenings. modern musicals such as Baz cultural centre and bar
Icària Yelmo Cineplex is Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge. with a scruffy but pleasant
the town’s biggest multiscreen The two-screen Méliès is a summer roof-terrace and
VO complex, built around gem offering art-house mov- small vegetarian restaurant
an American-style mall with ies, Hollywood classics, B&W that hosts a number of
a number of fast-food horrors and anything by alternative production
eateries on the ground Fellini or Alfred Hitchcock. companies, such as the
floor and shops on the first. Casablanca is a small cinema Argentinian Company
Barcelona’s biggest cinema, in Passeig de Gràcia showing 4D Òptic. Also good for
with a capacity of 1,832, is new independent films from avant-garde performances
Urgel (all films here are around the world in the and music is the Mercat
shown in Spanish only, original language and is de les Flors, a converted
regardless of the original quite a favourite with the flower market in the
language). Featuring one of local film buffs. Montjuïc. It is also host
Europe’s largest screens at There are also an increasing to a handful of different
over 200 sq m (518 sq km), number of small “bar-cinemas,” themed film festivals
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 165

including a celebration of Spanish and Catalan directors. Catalan flamenco singer

Asian film in the autumn. The Teatre Apolo is good Mayte Martín, it’s well
La Rambla and Paral.lel for big-bang musicals such worth snapping up tickets.
are the main hubs of the as Queen’s We Will Rock You There are also a handful
city’s bigger, more mainstream and ABBA’s Mamma Mia. of places that put on a
theatres. The Teatre Tivoli Modern dance is much loved reasonable dinner and
is a gargantuan theatre in Barcelona and there’s no show for non-purists
where high quality produc- shortage of productions, including El Tablao de
tions, dance and musical often staged at the city’s Carmen (see p167). Los
recitals by Catalan, Spanish main theatres. The Teatre Tarantos in Plaça Reial
and international stars are Victòria on Avinguda del has daily flamenco concerts
held. The Teatre Poliorama Paral.lel is a reasonable at affordable prices (usually
on La Rambla meanwhile bet for ballet and more less than €10).
goes more for musicals, classical dance productions, Salsa, merengue and
occasional operas and as is the Liceu opera other sizzling Caribbean
flamenco performances house (see p166). moves have a solid following
three times a week. For Visitors who want to see with various clubs playing
serious theatre-lovers flamenco (see p167) while host to big name bands
however, the Teatre Nacional in Barcelona can experience from New York, Puerto
de Catalunya (TNC) is an reasonably authentic rendi- Rico and Cuba. Join the
imposing columned affair tions of the sexy, foot- party (and take part in
designed by the Catalan stomping excitement of regular, free dance lessons)
architect Ricard Bofill, the peñas (folk bars) of at Antilla BCN Latin Club,
with state-of-the-art facilities Andalusia. However, if you or, the Buenavista Salsa
and a weighty line-up of do get a chance to see the Club in Eixample.

DIRECTORY
FILM IMAX Port Vell THEATRE AND Mercat de les Flors
Moll d’Espanya, Port Vell. DANCE C/de Lleida 59.
Casablanca Map 5 A4.
L’Antic Teatre Map 1 B2.
Passeig de Gràcia 115, Tel 93 225 11 11.
www.imaxportvell.com C/Verdaguer i Callís 12, Tel 93 426 18 75.
Eixample.
La Ribera. Map 5 A1. www.mercatflors.org
Map 3 A3. Méliès
C/Villarroel 102, Tel 93 315 23 54.
Tel 93 218 43 45. Teatre Apolo
Eixample. Map 2 E1. www.lanticteatre.com
CCCB Av del Paral.lel 59.
Tel 93 451 00 51. Antilla BCN
C/Montalegre 5. Map 1 B1.
Piscina Bernat Latin Club
Map 2 F2. Picornell Tel 93 441 90 07.
C/Aragó 141, Eixample.
Tel 93 306 41 00. Av. de l’Estadi 30–38. Map 3 A4. Tel 93 451 45 Teatre Nacional
www.cccb.org Map 1 A3. 64. www.antillasalsa.com
Tel 93 423 40 41. de Catalunya (TNC)
Festival www.picornell.cat Buenavista Plaça de les Arts 1.
Internacional Salsa Club Map 6 F1.
Renoir
de Cinema de C/Roselló 217, Eixample.
Floridablanca Tel 93 306 57 00.
Catalunya C/Floridablanca 135,
Map 3 A3.
www.tnc.cat
Sitges. Eixample. Tel 93 237 65 28.
Tel 938 94 99 90. Map 1 C1. www.salsabuenavista.com Teatre Poliorama
www.cinemasitges.com Tel 93 426 33 37. La Rambla 115, Barri
Gran Teatre del
www.cinesrenoir.com
Filmoteca de la Liceu (Opera House) Gòtic. Map 5 A1.
Urgel La Rambla 51–59. Tel 93 317 75 99.
Generalitat de
Comte d’Urgell 29. Map 5 A1.
Catalunya www.teatrepoliorama.com
Map 2 E1. Tel 93 485 99 00.
Avda Sarrià 31–33, Tel 90 242 42 43. www.liceubarcelona.com Teatre Tívoli
Eixample.
Verdi C/Casp 10–12, Eixample.
Tel 93 410 75 90. Llantiol
C/Verdi 32,
C/Riereta 7, El Raval. Map 3 B5.
Gràcia.
Icària Yelmo Map 2 E2. Tel 93 412 20 63.
Map 3 B1.
Cineplex Tel 93 238 79 90. Tel 93 329 90 09.
C/Salvador Espriu 61, www.llantiol.com
Teatre Victòria
www.cines-verdi.com
vila Olímpica. Av del Paral.lel 67–69.
Verdi Park Los Tarantos
Map 6 E4. Map 1 B1.
C/Torrijos 49, Gràcia. Plaça Reial 17.
Tel 93 221 75 85. Map 3 C2. Tel 93 329 91 89.
Map 5 A3.
www.yelmocineplex.es Tel 93 238 79 90. Tel 93 319 17 89. www.teatrevictoria.com
166 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Music
Few cities in the world can match the eclectic range of on Plaça Reial, attracts a
Barcelona’s music scene. Stunning world-class venues number of jazz heavyweights
such as Palau de la Música and L’Auditori de Barcelona as well as more experimental
play host to mega-stars, while smaller jazz rooms outfits and solo artists such as
the saxophonist Billy McHenry.
attract smouldering songsters. Then there are also the Another good bet is the JazzSí
underground dives for the best in experimental elec- Club Taller de Músics, a more
tronica as well as the dusty, dimly-lit flamenco folk obscure destination but much
clubs. Traditional Catalan music and dancing (sardanes) beloved by aficionados of the
can be heard in the Cathedral square most weekends. genre. It doubles up as a jam
session space for students
OPERA AND CLASSICAL here regularly. Both of these from the nearby music school.
MUSIC venues can be visited on day- The famous Cova del Drac
time guided tours, but book- closed down in 2004 and
Opera and classical music ing tickets for a production is reopened a couple of years
are beloved by Catalans the best way to experience later as the Jazz Room. It
who lap it up with near the atmosphere. functions largely as a dance
religious reverence. Indeed, Modern, but no less club but there are usually a
many of the great artists of important as a shrine to the couple of live gigs every
the 20th century were locals, Catalan arts scene, L’Auditori month. Heligogàbal, a small
including the cellist Pablo de Barcelona was built to underground bar in Gràcia,
Casals and opera singers José accommodate growing also hosts jazz concerts.
Carreras and Montserrat demand for better facilities Concerts are generally free,
Caballé, who performed and to attract ever greater or very cheap. The Harlem
Barcelona, the dramatic numbers of world class Jazz Club is narrow, crowded
operatic duet with the late musicians. It began primarily and smoky but it’s one of the
Freddy Mercury. as a place for classical city’s longest surviving clubs
The city is also home to concerts and orchestral for alternative and lesser-
some of the most spectacular recitals, but has since begun known jazz troupes. Little
venues in the world, includ- to embrace giants of jazz, Italy is a boon for those who
ing the glamorous, gilded pop and rock. It is also worth like the tinkle of the piano
Gran Teatre del Liceu, which keeping your eyes peeled for keyboard and the soft pluck
first opened its doors in regular choral music being of the double bass. Enjoy an
1847. The opera house has performed at the city’s eclectic mix of blues, jazz and
been a continuing beacon churches and cathedrals, bossa nova over dinner on
of Catalan arts for more than most notably the Iglesia Santa Wednesdays and Thursdays.
a century and a half, with a Maria del Pi, the main The most formal of the jazz
rich and dramatic history of cathedral on Plaça del Pi, venues, however, is
fire and bomb attacks. It and the Iglesia Santa Maria Barcelona’s “free” theatre –
burned down for the third del Mar, particularly around the Teatre Lliure in Montjuïc
time in 1994, but careful Christmas time and Easter. is an excellent source for
renovations have restored contemporary jazz masters,
it to its former glory. Despite LIVE MUSIC: ROCK, JAZZ modern orchestras and
its misfortunes, it has sus- AND BLUES experimental grooves, playing
tained a stellar line-up of host to a diverse number of
the greatest composers in In terms of popular music musicians from Eric Mingus to
the world, among them Barcelona may not have The Sun Ra Arkestra directed
Puccini, Tchaikovsky and the endless clubs, pubs, by Marshall Allen. For lovers
Diaghilev’s Russian Ballets, stadiums and music empori- of the genre, this is the best
as well as Catalan composers ums that make London the of the lot.
such as Pedrell, Vives and best place on the planet for One of the two major
Enric Granados. live music, but it doesn’t do players for pop and rock
The whimsical fancy of the too badly considering its maestros is Bikini, Barcelona’s
Palau de la Música is another size. The city attracts a star- very own Studio 54 – in fact,
of Barcelona’s architectural studded cast that range from it opened in 1953, preceding
triumphs. A jewel-bright pop stars such as Kylie the New York icon by a year.
vision by the Modernista Minogue and Madonna to This veteran of the scene,
master Lluís Domènech i contemporary jazz prodigies which opens from midnight
Montaner, this sublime such as the Brad Mehldau onwards, is still going strong
concert hall has a dedicated Quartet, hip-hoppers, rappers with a robust line-up of big
public, and performers who and world groove mixers, name bands and a cocktail
vie to play here. The Palau is country and good old- of different club nights.
the main venue for the city’s fashioned rock and roll. The other, Razzmatazz,
jazz and guitar festivals and Barcelona still has a clutch arguably the city’s most
national and international of tiny, intimate venues. important live music venue,
symphony orchestras perform Jamboree, a cellar-like venue plays host to the likes of
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 167

Róisín Murphy, Arctic If your taste is for the small Andalucian dishes in the
Monkeys, Air and Jarvis and subtle, the Bar Pastis is a Poble Espanyol. The venue
Cocker. Club sessions go miniscule bar, decorated with is named after Carmen
until dawn in Lolita, The dusty bottles and yellowing Amaya, a famous dancer
Loft and three other clubs posters from French musicals. who performed for King
next door. The Loft is a Live French love ballads, tango Alfonso XIII in 1929, in the
trendy club that also holds and coplas can be heard here very spot where it now
rock and jazz concerts most nights of the week. stands. Various dinner/show
several nights a week. packages are available.
For a touch of unbeatable FLAMENCO For a less formal ambience,
glam Luz de Gas is a glitzy Los Tarantos, situated in the
ballroom that oozes old- Although flamenco is Plaça Reial, is a lively
fashioned atmosphere traditionally an Andalusian atmospheric nightspot with
with its lamp-lit tables, artform, originally created by live flamenco and Latin
chandeliers and a list of the gypsies of Southern Spain music every night of the
bands and shows that enjoyed to depict their sufferings and week. Although it caters
their heyday in the 1970s and hardship, it has for many to the tourist trade, the
‘80s. The biggest international years been a popular form performances are very
stars – including Eric Clapton, of entertainment in Barcelona reasonably priced.
Madonna, Beyoncé and and throughout Spain. One JazzSí Club Taller de Músics
Coldplay – take over the of the best places to see a (see p166) offers traditional
huge arenas on Montjuïc, live show is El Tablao de flamenco concerts on Fridays,
the Estadi Olímpic and the Carmen, a stylish restaurant often accompanied by well-
Palau Sant Jordi (see p89). serving both Catalan and known guest musicians.

DIRECTORY
OPERA AND Bikini JazzSí Club Taller de FLAMENCO
CLASSICAL
MUSIC Deu I Mata 105, Músics El Tablao de
Les Corts. C/Requesens 2, Carmen
L’Auditori de
Tel 93 322 08 00. El Raval. Arcs, 9.
Barcelona
www.bikinibcn.com Tel 93 329 00 20. Poble Espanyol.
C/Lepant 150, Eixample.
www.tallerdemusics.com Map 1 B1.
Map 4 E1. Harlem Jazz
Tel 933 25 68 95.
Tel 93 247 93 00.
Club Little Italy
www.auditori.com www.tablaodecarmen.
C/Comtessa de C/Rec 30,
com
Gran Teatre Sobradiel 8, Born.
del Liceu Los Tarantos
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 C3.
La Rambla 51, Plaça Reial 17.
Tel 93 310 07 55. Tel 93 319 79 73.
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A3.
Map 5 A1. www.harlemjazzclub.es Luz de Gas Tel 933 19 17 89.
Tel 93 485 99 00. C/Muntaner 246,
Heliogàbal
www.liceubarcelona.com Eixample. CONCERT VENUES
Ramón y Cajal 80,
Palau de la Música Map 2 F1.
Gràcia. L’Auditori
Catalana Tel 93 209 77 11.
C/Lepant 150.
Map 3 C2.
C/Sant Pere Més Alt s/n, www.luzdegas.com
www.heliogabal.com Tel 93 247 93 00.
La Ribera.
Razzmatazz www.auditori.com
Map 5 B1. Jamboree
C/Pamplona 88, Espai Lliure
Tel 902 442 882.
Plaça Reial 17,
www.palaumusica.org Poblenou. Plaça Margarida Xirgu 1,
Barri Gòtic.
Map 4 F5. Montjuïc.
LIVE MUSIC: Map 5 A3.
Tel 93 320 82 00. Tel 93 289 27 70.
ROCK, JAZZ
Tel 93 319 17 89. www.salarazzmatazz.
AND BLUES Sala Fabià
www.masimas.com com
Bar Pastis Puigserver
Jazz Room Teatre Lliure Passeig Santa Madrona
C/Santa Mònica 4,
C/Vallmajor 33. Plaça Margarida Xirgu 1, 40-46, Montjuïc.
El Raval. Map 2 F4.
Tel 93 318 79 80. Tel 93 319 17 89. Tel 93 289 27 70. Map 1 B3.
www.barpastis.com www.masimas.com www.teatrelliure.com Tel 93 289 27 70.
168 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Nightlife
If New York is the city that never sleeps, then Barcelona PORT VELL AND PORT
is the one that never goes to bed and those with energy OLÍMPIC
can party around the clock, all week. It has one of the
most varied scenes, with something for everybody. Old- Beach parties aside, this area
continues to be a hub for
fashioned dance halls rub shoulders with underground creatures of the night. The
drum and bass clubs and trashy techno discos, and club- Port Olìmpic itself is nothing
goers are either glammed-up or grunged-out. Each but bars and boats, while the
barrio (neighbourhood) offers a different flavour. leisure and shopping complex
Maremagnum has a clutch of
NIGHTLIFE Fantástico Club. Pop and elegant clubs. Under the
electro music combined with Hotel Arts, Catwalk is still one
In the summer the beaches candy-coloured decor make of the only places in the city
become party havens when this club a hit with the fashion- for hip hop and R’n’B.
the xiringuitos (beach bars) able crowd. Underground and C.D.L.C. and nearby restaurant
spring back into life. Wander cosmopolitan are words that and lounge bar Shôko, in
from Platja de Sant Sebastià in best describe the atmosphere front of the Hotel Arts, how-
Barceloneta, all the way to and clientele of Club Fellini, ever, still manage to draw the
Bogatell (a few kilometres where eccentricity merges celebrities staying nearby.
beyond the Hotel Arts) and into the freakishly original.
you’ll find people dancing It has three rooms with EIXAMPLE
barefoot on the sand to the different music and decor
tune of Barcelona’s innu- in each. The nightclub One of the city’s best loved
merable DJs. Way uptown New York, in contrast, discos, City Hall is a multiple
(above the Diagonal), the has come over all loungey space and terrace, where you
city’s most glamorous terraces and these days is inclined can pick and choose your
morph into social hubs while towards more commercially groove according to your
the Barri Gòtic – lively at the gratifying tunes. The vibe mood. It has different themes
best of times – becomes one here is more disco. every night from Saturday
massive street party through- night-fever discos to Sunday
out the summer. If you want EL RAVAL chill-outs. Buda Barcelona is
to hang with the locals, the quite literally oozing with
demolition of some of El Designer clubs proliferate in glitz and glamour, beloved
Raval’s less salubrious streets Barcelona these days, but by models and their
has meant that the neighbour- check out the old-school entourages. It is a place
hood has become much ambience of Marsella, where anything goes, from
safer and easier to move founded in 1820 and still dancing on the bar tops to
about. The underground famous for its wicked green dancing with your top off. For
vibe, however, remains absinthe (absenta). The likes a more understated type of
steadfastly intact with tiny of Picasso, Hemingway and glamour, Opium is housed
hole-in-the-wall-style bars Miró are said to have drunk in a converted cinema and
where folks drink and boogie here and the 19th-century- therefore bags the title for
till the early hours. Similarly, styled interior, with marble the best projections in town.
Gràcia has a bohemian, tables, chandeliers and Dow Jones has a unique
studenty ambience. If it’s an battered old mirrors evokes “Stock Exchange” system for
alternative scene you seek a bygone era. With its red, setting the prices of drinks,
Poble Sec has a handful of black and white decor and a which rise and fall with
“ring-to-enter” joints and the specially-designed underlit demand. For sports fans they
city’s only serious drum and bar, Zentraus is one of the also offer Sky coverage.
bass club, Plataforma. The best looking clubs in the
city also has a thriving and neighbourhood. Doubling up POBLE SEC
friendly gay scene, most as a restaurant until midnight
notably within the Eixample or so, the tables are cleared The most alternative night-
Esquerra, also known as the away once the DJ sessions life has come to roost in
Gay Eixample, boasting get underway. For the more the “dry village,” though in
numerous late-night drinking adventurous, Moog is more name only. The bars are wet
holes, discothèques, saunas extreme with blaring, heart- and the music is happening.
and cabarets. pumping techno for Apolo is another old-
aficionados of the genre. The fashioned music hall, though
BARRI GÒTIC stark industrial interior gives it it attracts a more independent
the character of a New York breed of DJ and performer.
The Plaça Reial is overrun nightclub in the mid-1990s. Expect anything here, from
with tourists banging on tin Likewise, the state-of-the-art soulful gypsy folk singers
drums and whooping it up, sound system ensures a from Marseille, to the
but if you’re looking for more thumping, ear-bleedingly legendary purveyor of
grown-up fun, check out the good night out. deep funk, Keb Darge.
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 169

Further into the village, delight a 20-something crowd takes its name from the
Mau Mau is an alternative with 1970s sessions of north- giant terrace it occupies.
club and cultural centre with ern soul and Motown. And Nearby, on Plaça Espanya,
a firm eye on what’s new and high up above the rest, the Ibiza-style Discothèque
happening. This could mean Elephant offers the best in is extremely popular. Don’t
local DJs, Japanese musicians mansion-house clubbing even think about getting in
such as the cultish Cinema experiences, with chill-out without an appropriately
Dub Monks, alternative lounges, two dance floors, a glamorous outfit, and
cinema, and multimedia art VIP area, sprawling terraces remember, less is most
installations. If it’s of the here and prices to suit the altitude. definitely more.
and now, chances are Mau Further out of town you
Mau’s on it. For the seriously OUT OF TOWN will find Oshum, the most
hardcore and lovers of high- sophisticated and innovative
speed garage, Plataforma is The mega-clubs are located night club in the area. It also
Barcelona’s only serious drum well away from the city houses a restaurant and a
and bass club, hosting DJs centre and from anyone lounge terrace, with an
from far and wide in a huge trying to sleep, and most exquisite design. It tries to
concrete warehouse. of them are only open on reproduce the Ibiza spirit.
Friday and Saturday nights. Alternatively, Liquid is the
GRÀCIA AND TIBIDABO The big boys are based in city’s only summer club
Poble Espanyol, where folks with a swimming pool.
Tiny and always packed, the can party until the sunrise. The only drawback is that
Mond Bar attracts music- La Terrrazza, is only open should you wish to leave
lovers from all over wishing in the summer, but is well- before the party’s over,
to dip into tunes from the known for its all-night rave finding a taxi back into
past. The resident DJs parties under the stars, and town can be a big problem.

DIRECTORY
BARRI GÒTIC PORT VELL Opium Mond Bar
AND PORT C/Paris 193, Eixample. Plaza del Sol 21, Gràcia.
Club Fellini OLÌMPIC Tel 93 414 63 62. www.
La Rambla 27, Map 3 B1.
grupocostaeste.com
Barri Gòtic. Catwalk
Tel 93 272 09 10.
Map 2 F3. Ramon Trias Fargas 2–4,
Tel 93 272 49 80. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4.
POBLE SEC
www.clubfellini.com Tel 93 224 07 40. OUT OF TOWN
Apolo
Fantástico Club www.clubcatwalk.net
C/Nou de la Rambla 113, Discothèque
Passatge Escudellers 3, C.D.L.C. Poble Sec.
Barri Gòtic. Passeig Marítim 32, C/Tarragona 141–147.
Map 2 D4.
Map 5 A3. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4. Tel 90 202 38 65.
Tel 93 441 40 01.
Tel 93 317 54 11. Tel 93 224 04 70.
www.sala-apolo.com www.discotheque.info
New York www.cdlcbarcelona.com
C/Escudellers 5, Mau Mau La Terrrazza
Shôko
Barri Gòtic. Passeig Marítim 36, C/Fontrodona 33,
Poble Espanyol, Avda
Map 5 A3. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4. Poble Sec.
Tel 93 318 87 30. Map 2 D3. Marquès de Comillas.
Tel 93 225 92 00.
www.shoko.biz Tel 93 441 80 15. Map 1 B1.
EL RAVAL
www. Tel 93 272 49 80.
Marsella EIXAMPLE maumaunderground.com
http://laterrrazza.com
C/Sant Pau 65
Buda Barcelona Plataforma
El Raval.
C/Pau Claris 92, Eixample. C/Nou de la Rambla 145, Liquid
Map 2 F3.
Map 3 B3. Tel 93 318 42
Tel 93 442 72 63. Poble Sec. Complex Esportiu
52. www.buda
Moog Map 2 D4. Hospitalet Nord, Av.
restaurante.com
C/Arc del Teatre 3, Tel 93 329 00 29.
City Hall Manuel Azaña, Hospitalet.
El Raval. Map 2 F4.
Tel 93 319 17 89. Rambla Catalunya 2–4, GRÀCIA AND www.liquidbcn.com
www.masimas.com Eixample. Map 3 A3. TIBIDABO
Tel 93 317 21 77. Oshum
Zentraus www.ottozutz.es Elephant Av. Doctor
Rambla de Raval 41,
Dow Jones Passeig dels Til.lers 1,
El Raval. Marañón 17.
Map 2 F3. Bruc 97, Eixample. Tibidabo.
Tel 93 203 75 46. Tel 93 118 86 01.
Tel 93 443 80 78. Map 3 B4.
www.zentraus.com Tel 93 207 60 45. www.elephantbcn.com www.oshumclub.com
170 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Sports and Outdoor Activities The best times to visit are early
morning and evening. The
From the mountains to the sea, Catalonia provides all Pyrenees are home to many
manner of terrain for enjoying the outdoor life. The hot raptors, including short-toed,
summer months can be filled with water activities, from golden and Bonelli eagles, and
fishing to white-water rafting, while skiers head for the Egyptian, griffon and bearded
hills with the first snowfalls of winter. Nature lovers will vultures. The Parc Natural del
Cadí-Moixeró (see p114), in
find spectacular wildlife habitats, while Barcelona city the foothills of the Pyrenees,
offers beaches and numerous sports facilities. has a visitor centre in Bagà.
Look out for alpine choughs,
CITY FACILITIES AIRBORNE ACTIVITIES wallcreepers and peregrine
falcons, as well as black wood-
Barcelona has around 30 Catalonia has several small peckers in the wooded areas.
municipal pools (piscines airports where planes can
municipales), including the be hired and parachute
Piscines Bernat Picornell next jumps made. One of the
to the Estadi Olímpic and best known flying clubs is
Palau Sant Jordi sports stadia Aeroclub in Sabadell. Parag-
on Montjuïc. The pools were liding is popular from any
the venue for the 1992 high spot and Esports 10
Olympic swimming events. offers all kinds of adventure
The Estadi Olímpic is an ath- sports, including bungee
letics stadium and is often jumping and ballooning, as
used for concerts. The Palau an exciting alternative way to
Sant Jordi is used for indoor see the sights.
sports, as well as musical and
recreational activities. Tennis BIRD WATCHING
fans are well provided for
and the Centre Municipal Bird life in Catalonia
de Tennis Vall d’Hebron is a huge attraction for
caters for younger dedicated bird-watchers. An angler’s paradise – fishing for
players too. Ice-skating Northern European trout amid spectacular scenery
can be fun and the visitors in particular will
Pista de Gel del FC be thrilled by the sight FIELD SPORTS
Barcelona offers skate of hoopoes, bee-eaters,
rental and runs an ice golden orioles and Sea fishing is free, but a
hockey school. Golf Griffon vulture pratincoles. Two major permit (un permís) is required
courses within easy wetland areas, where for river fishing. Permits can
reach of Barcelona are Golf migratory birds include flam- usually be obtained through
Sant Cugat and Golf El Prat. ingoes, are Delta de l’Ebre (see local tourist offices.
There are several riding p129), south of Tarragona, The Noguera Pallaresa and
stables, and the Escola Hípica with a visitor centre in Del- Segre are fine trout fishing
at Sant Cugat allows day tebre, and Aiguamolls de rivers and the season runs
outings over the Collserola l’Empordà around Sant Pere from mid-March to the end of
hills. Cycle shops hire by the Pescador in the Bay of Roses. August. The game-hunting
hour, half day and full day. Both are easy to get to, and season is generally from
Bike Tours Barcelona organizes their visitor centres supply October to March. Short leases
cycle tours around Barcelona. binoculars and guide services. and permits can be obtained
from the Federació Catalana
de Caça in Barcelona or from
a local hunting association
(associació de caça). Travel
agents specializing in hunting
and fishing breaks will also
readily organize licences.

HIKING

All the national parks and

reserves publish maps and
walking suggestions. Good
areas close to Barcelona are
the Collserola hills and the
chestnut woods of Montseny.
Long-distance GR (Gran
Recorrido) footpaths criss-cross
Paragliding above the Vall d’Aran in the eastern Pyrenees Catalonia and the walking
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 171

DIRECTORY
Aeroclub de Sabadell
Tel 93 710 19 52.
www.aeroclub.es
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
Tel 972 45 42 22.
www.aiguamolls.org
ACEM
Tel 93 416 01 94.
www.catneu.net
Bike Tours Barcelona
Tel 93 268 21 05.
www.bicicletabarcelona.com
Centre Excursionista
de Catalunya
Shooting the rapids on the white waters of the Noguera Pallaresa Tel 93 315 23 11.
www.cec.cat
possibilities in the Parc spot for scuba diving. The Centre Municipal de
Nacional d’Aigüestortes (see best place is around the Tennis Vall d’Hebron
p113) and the Pyrenees are protected Illes Medes (see Tel 93 427 65 00.
particularly good, with moun- p121), from the resort of Centre Municipal de
tain refuges (see p133) for L’Estartit. There are also diving Vela Port Olímpic
serious hikers. Walkers can schools around Cadaqués and Tel 93 225 79 40.
obtain information from the Cap Begur, notably at Calella www.velabarcelona.com
Centre Excursionista de Cat- de Palafrugell, launching
Delta de l’Ebre
alunya (see p133). The Llibreria point for the Illes Ullastres.
Tel 977 48 21 81.
Quera, in Carrer de Petritxol The town of Sort on the
(No. 2) in Barcelona’s Barri Riu Noguera Pallaresa is a Escola Hípica
Gòtic, is the best bookshop for Tel 93 674 83 85.
centre for exciting water
www.hipicasantcugat.es
maps and guide books. sports such as white-water
All the usual rules apply to rafting, canoeing, kayaking Estadi Olímpic/Palau
those setting off to explore the and cave diving. Bookings Sant Jordi
wilderness – check weather for these and other adventure Tel 93 426 20 89.
forecasts, wear appropriate activities can be made Esports 10
clothing, take adequate through Yetiemotions. Tel 90 233 31 10.
provisions and let someone www.esports10.com
know where you are going. WINTER SPORTS Federació Catalana de
Caça
WATER SPORTS The Pyrenees offer great Tel 93 268 23 07.
winter skiing just two or three www.federcat.com
There are around 40 marinas hours’ drive from Barcelona Golf El Prat
along Catalonia’s 580 km and at weekends the resorts Tel 93 728 1000.
(360 miles) of coast, and a fill up with city crowds. There www.rcgep.com
very wide range of watersports are some 20 ski areas. La Golf Sant Cugat
and activities is available. In Molina is good for beginners Tel 93 674 39 08.
Barcelona itself, the Centre and Baqueira-Beret (see p113) www.golfsantcugat.com
Municipal de Vela Port Olímpic is where Spain’s royal family Llibreria Quera
gives sailing lessons and has a skis. Puigcerdà (see p114) in Tel 93 318 07 43.
variety of craft. The Costa the Cerdanya is a good base
Parc Nacional
Brava has long been a good for downhill and nordic skiing d’Aigüestortes
within reach of 15 ski Tel 973 62 40 36.
stations in Catalonia,
Andorra and France. Parc Natural del
The Associació Cata- Cadí-Moixeró
Tel 93 824 41 51.
lana d’Estacions
d’Esquí i Activitats de Piscines Bernat Picornell
Muntanya (ACEM) Tel 93 423 40 41.
supplies resort details, www.picornell.cat
while Teletiempo, a Pista de Gel del
weather hotline, pro- FC Barcelona
vides information on Tel 93 496 36 30.
current weather con- Teletiempo
ditions. In Barcelona, Tel 807 17 03 65 (Spain).
a dry ski slope has Yetiemotions
been installed beside Tel 97 362 22 01.
Skiing at one of the many ski stations in the the Piscines Bernat www.yetiemotions.com
Pyrenees within easy reach of Barcelona Picornell on Montjuïc.
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 174181

TRAVEL INFORMATION 182187
174 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
C atalonia has an excellent
tourist infrastructure and
offers visitors a wealth of
options, from soaking in the sun
on a sandy beach to hiking on a
activities. Larger offices usually
have leaflets in several different
languages. Be aware that August
is Spain’s main vacation month,
and many businesses close for
remote mountain trail. There are the whole month. Try to find out
tourist offices in every town, in advance if your visit coincides
which can assist in finding Sign for a with local festes (fiestas), as these
accommodation, restaurants and tourist office can entail widespread closures.

VISAS AND PASSPORTS the Generalitat (Catalonia’s LANGUAGE

government), provides
Spain is part of the Schengen information on the rest of the Though Catalan is the language
common European border region. Other major towns spoken by native Catalans,
treaty. Visas are not currently have their own tourist offices Catalonia is a bilingual country
required for citizens of the EU, providing information pub- where people also speak
Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, lished by the Generalitat and Castellano (Spanish). If you
the USA, Canada, Australia or the province’s local adminis- respond in Spanish to a
New Zealand. However it is tration (patronat). There are question or greeting made in
best to check visa requirements Spanish National Tourist Catalan, the speaker will usu-
before travelling. Spanish Offices in the following ally switch to Spanish. Official
embassies supply a list of other English-speaking cities: New signs and documents are in
countries in the non-visa cate- York, Chicago, Miami, Los both languages. However, as
gory. Tourists from these coun- Angeles, London and Toronto. Barcelona in particular
tries may stay for 90 days within In Barcelona during the regards itself as truly cosmo-
a continuous 180-day period. summer, pairs of young infor- politan, most tourist literature
The Oficina d’estrangers de mation officers, known as Red is also in English and French.
Barcelona, a local government Jackets and generally English-
office, handles visa extensions. speaking, provide tourist OPENING HOURS
information in the streets of
TAX-FREE GOODS AND the Barri Gòtic, La Rambla Most museums and monu-
CUSTOMS INFORMATION and the Passeig de Gràcia. ments close on Mondays. On
other days they generally
Non-EU residents can reclaim open from 10am to 2pm and,
IVA (VAT) on single items usually reopen from 4 or 5pm
worth over €90 bought in to 8pm. It is worth checking
shops displaying a “Tax-free specific opening times in
Shopping” sign, within six advance as larger museums
months of purchase. (Food, often stay open throughout
drink, cars, motorbikes, the day. Churches may only
tobacco and medicines are be opened for services. In
exempt.) You pay the full price smaller towns it is common
and ask the sales assistant for for churches, castles and
a tax free cheque, which you other sights to be kept locked.
then present to customs to be The key (la clau), available
stamped as you leave Spain on request, will be with a
(do this before checking your caretaker, kept at the town
bags). The refund is issued hall (ajuntament), or perhaps
either on your credit card or at the local bar. Admission is
in cash at La Caxia bank Tourists consulting a map charged for most museums
branches at Terminals 1 and 2 in Barcelona and monuments, although
of Barcelona airport. museums are often free on
SOCIAL CUSTOMS AND some specific days and on
TOURIST INFORMATION ETIQUETTE certain national holidays.

Barcelona has three main Catalans are generally more TRAVELLING ON A

oficines de turisme providing reserved than other Spaniards, BUDGET
information on city, its but they will greet strangers at
attractions, transport and bus stops, in lifts, in shops Nearly all restaurants offer a
places to stay and eat, all run and in other public places. three-course midday Menú del
by Turisme de Barcelona. A They shake hands and often día with wine for as little as €9.
fourth office, in the Passeig kiss on both cheeks when You may have to ask to see it.
de Gràcia and run by Turisme introduced to strangers or There are three official types
de Catalunya, a department of when seeing friends or family. of accommodation, with a
Boats in Barcelona’s Port Olímpic with the hill of Montjuïc in the background
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 175

hostal or a pensión being welcome in all restaurants RESPONSIBLE TOURISM

significantly cheaper than a and bars until late in the
hotel. The quality varies widely, evening. It is also usual for There has been a growth in
so ask to see a room if you people to try and interact with sustainable tourism in Catalonia
haven’t booked in advance. your children, offering them over recent years, concentrated
Holders of the International sweets in shops or striking up on the excellent network of
Student Identity Card (ISIC) are a conversation with them. Casas rurales. These are small,
entitled to benefits such as dis- All children under 1.35 m traditional, family-owned
counts on travel and entrance (4 ft 5 inches) are required by farmhouses that offer room
fees to museums and galleries. law to use a specially adapted and board in traditional, rural
Viatgeteca sells these as well car seat, except when areas. ASETUR is the associa-
as youth hostel cards. travelling by taxi. Children tion of rural tourism in Spain
Unlimited Youth Student Travel under the age of four travel for and has substantial information
specializes in student travel. free on the Metro and on trains on its website. There are also
Many museums offer free or there is a reduced fare for many local green tourism ini-
discounted entry to retired visi- those aged between 4 and 13. tiatives and activities in differ-
tors. Be prepared to show your ent regions; information can
passport to prove your age. GAY AND LESBIAN be found through local tourist
TRAVELLERS offices. Catalonia still has many
small shops selling local
Barcelona is a famously produce and it is possible to
tolerant and open-minded support the local economies
city. The gay centre of through shopping in these
Barcelona is in the Eixample rather than in chain stores.
district (sometimes referred
to as “Gayxample”), where DIRECTORY
most of the gay bars, hotels,
restaurants and shops TOURIST OFFICES
are concentrated.
The busy gay beach resort Turisme de Barcelona
MACBA (see p62) offers reduced of Sitges is a short journey by Plaça de Catalunya 17, subterrani.
admission to students train or car, but there are also Map 5 A1. Tel 93 285 38 34.
some smaller beaches within C/Ciutat 2 (Ajuntament).
TRAVELLERS WITH Barcelona: Platja Mar Bella
Map 5 A2. Tel 93 285 38 34.
SPECIAL NEEDS has a gay beach, and Platja de
Sant Sebastià has a mixed, Estació Sants, Pl Països Catalans.
Catalonia’s association for the clothing optional, nude Tel 93 285 38 34.
disabled, the Federació ECOM beach at the end of the
(see p133), has hotel lists and Barceloneta district. Turisme de Catalunya
travel advice for the whole Palau Robert, Pg de Gràcia 107.
region. Disabled ELECTRICAL ADAPTORS Map 3 A3. Tel 93 238 80 91/2/3.
Accessible Travel
can organize Spain’s electricity supply is SPECIAL NEEDS
tours and 220 volts. Plugs have two
excursions, and round pins. A three-tier Disabled Accessible Travel
will also give standard travel converter Tel 60 591 87 69.
free advice on enables you to use appliances
www.disabledaccessible
Sign for disabled accessible from abroad. You can also
access hotels in the find adaptors in department travel.com
city. Tourist stores (see p154) across the Viajes 2000
offices and the social services city and in hardware stores
C/Aribau 123. Map 2 F1.
departments of town halls (ferreteries).
supply information on local Tel 93 323 96 60.
facilities. A travel agency, SPANISH TIME
Viajes 2000, specializes in STUDENTS AND YOUTH
vacations for disabled people. Spain is 1 hour ahead of
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Unlimited Youth Student
TRAVELLING WITH during the winter (l’hivern) Travel & Viatgeteca
CHILDREN and 2 hours during the Carrer Calàbria 147.
summer (l’estiu), and uses the
Map 2 D1. Tel 93 483 83 41.
Barcelona is one of the most 24-hour clock.
child-friendly major cities in La matinada is the small
Europe, given its numerous hours, el matís (morning) RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
parks, play-areas, beaches lasts until about 1pm, while ASETUR
and activities. As in the rest of migdia (midday) is from 1 to
Travessera de les Corts 131–159.
Spain, people in Catalonia are 4pm. La tarda is the
very family oriented and afternoon, el vespre the www.ecoturismorural.com
children are generally evening and la nit the night.
176 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health them. Never leave valuables

in your car and be aware
In Catalonia, as in most parts of Western of people hanging around
Europe, rural areas are quite safe, while ATMs since credit card frauds
towns and cities warrant more care. are also on the increase,
Keep cards and money in a belt, don’t especially along the coast.
Barcelona is generally safe
leave valuables in your car and avoid for walking, although it is
Spanish
poorly lit areas at night. If you feel ill, advisable to avoid the Barri
pharmacy sign there will always be a local farmàcia Xinès area at night. It should
(pharmacy) open. In Spain, pharmacists be remembered, however,
can prescribe some drugs as well as advise. Report lost that violent crime and mug-
documents to your consulate (see p177) and to the gings in Barcelona are rare.
Mossos d’Esquadra at the local comissaria (police Always take care when
station). Emergency numbers are listed opposite. using pedestrian crossings,
particularly those without
lights. Wait until there is
POLICE IN CATALONIA a large enough gap to
cross safely.
In Catalonia, police services
are organized into three IN AN EMERGENCY
forces. The Guàrdia Civil
(paramilitary Civil Guard), The national telephone
dressed in olive-green, polices number throughout Spain for
only borders and airports. In all emergency services is 112.
black and red uniforms, the After dialling, ask for policia
Mossos d’Escuadra, the (police), bombers (fire brigade)
autonomous government’s or ambulància (ambulance).
police service, deals with There are also local numbers
major crime in larger towns for the individual emergency
and national security, as services (opposite).
well as immigration. The Outside of Barcelona, the
Guàrdia Urbana, dressed in largely voluntary Creu Roja
blue, deals with traffic (Red Cross) often responds
regulation and the policing of to 112 emergency calls
local communities. for ambulances.
If you are a victim of crime, Ambulances transport
report to the local comissaria. patients straight to hospital
There are several dotted urgències (accident and
around the city, including at emergency departments).
Carrer Nou de la Rambla 76–8
(between Montjuïc and the Crowds strolling on the busy street
Old Town), at Gran Via 456 of La Rambla
(in the Eixample) and at Car-
rer de l’Almirall Cervera 34 (in WHAT TO BE AWARE OF Red Cross ambulance sign
Barceloneta). There is also a
small office located in the As in most European cities,
Plaça Catalunya Metro station. pickpocketing in Barcelona is
common so it is wise to take Accident and Emergency sign
sensible precautions when
out and about, especially if LOST AND STOLEN
travelling during peak season. PROPERTY
Always be vigilant with hand-
bags, wallets and cameras, Report a loss or theft straight
especially in crowds, at major away to the Guàrdia Urbana,
tourist attractions, and cafés as many insurance companies
and bars. In particular, keep give you only 24 hours to
an eye on your bag at outdoor make the report. You must
cafés, as possessions have make a denúncia (written
been known to disappear. statement) to the police and
The more common tricks get a copy for your insurers.
include someone distracting Your consulate can replace
your attention by alerting you a missing passport or issue
to a “stain” on your clothing you with an emergency pass-
(this happens a lot in the port to return to your country
Metro) or carnation sellers of residence, but cannot
Mosso Guàrdia who deftly empty your wallet provide financial assistance,
d’Esquadra Urbana when you are trying to pay even in emergencies.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 177

OUTDOOR HAZARDS MEDICAL

TREATMENT
Catalonia’s hot summers create
the prime conditions for forest Any EU national who
fires; extinguish cigarettes and falls ill in Spain is
take empty bottles away with entitled to social
you as sun shining on the security cover. The
glass can cause flames. If you Spanish health service Patrol car of the Guàrdia Urbana
go climbing or hill-walking, be is generally efficient
properly equipped and let and care is of a high
someone know your route. standard. To claim
Do not enter a vedat de caça medical treatment,
(hunting reserve) or camí UK citizens must
particular (private driveway). apply for a European
In late spring and through- Health Insurance
out the summer, make sure Card online or at a
you have some good insect post office prior to Ambulance displaying the Barcelona 061
repellent with you to deal with travelling. All basic emergency number
Tiger Mosquitoes, a more vir- and emergency treat-
ulent strain of irritating, biting ments are covered
insects from Asia that have by the card at public
become prevalent in the area hospitals, but addi-
surrounding Barcelona. tional medical insur-
ance is needed for
LEGAL ASSISTANCE treatment in private
hospitals.
If you are arrested, you have For private medical Fire engine displaying the national
the right to telephone your care in Spain ask at a emergency number
consulate which can provide tourist office, or at
a list of bilingual lawyers. The your consulate or hotel for the DIRECTORY
Collegi d’Advocats (Lawyers’ name of a doctor. Visitors from
Association) can guide you the US should make sure their EMERGENCY SERVICES
on getting legal advice insurance covers medical care Police (Policia)
or representation. abroad. If payment is needed
Some holiday insurance at the time of treatment, ask Fire Brigade (Bombers)
policies cover legal costs and for an itemized bill. Some Ambulance (Ambulància)
provide a helpline you can insurance companies will ask Tel 112 (national number).
call for assistance. for an official translation.
Police
The most common incidents For non-emergencies, a
where the law is broken farmacèutic (pharmacist) can Policia Nacional Tel 091.
involve alcohol or drugs. It is advise and, at times, prescribe Guàrdia Urbana Tel 092.
illegal to drink alcohol in the without a doctor’s consultation Mossos d’Esquadra Tel 088.
street, or to purchase alcohol for minor infections, but if
Fire Brigade (local numbers)
from unlicensed street vendors. you have a fever they will
If you are caught you may direct you to urgències (emer- Tel 080 (Barcelona), 085 (Lleida,
incur a large fine. Driving gencies) at a hospital or, in Girona, Tarragona).
offences such as speeding smaller towns, to an ambula- Ambulance (local numbers)
and drink driving also result tori (medical centre). The
Tel 061 (Barcelona), use 112
in heavy fines and the possi- farmàcia sign is an illuminat-
ble loss of your licence. ed red or green cross. The (national number) elsewhere.
addresses of those open at
night or at weekends are list- CONSULATES
ed in all pharmacy windows. Australia
Plaza Gala Placídia 1.
PUBLIC CONVENIENCES Map 3 A1. Tel 93 490 90 13.
Canada
There are a number of pay-per- Calle Elisenda de Pinós 10, 08034
use automatic public toilets in
Barcelona. Tel 93 204 27 00.
the city centre. If you can’t
find one, simply walk into a United Kingdom
bar, café, department store or Avinguda Diagonal 477, 13°
hotel and ask for els serveis or 08036 Barcelona.
el lavabo (in Catalan), or los Tel 93 366 62 00.
servicios or los aseos (in Span- United States
ish). On motorways, there Passeig de la Reina Elisenda 23,
are toilets at service stations. 08034 Barcelona.
Front of a high-street farmàcia Women may have to request Tel 93 280 22 27.
(pharmacy) in Catalonia la clau (the key).
178 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banking and Local Currency

You may enter Spain with an unlimited amount of
money, but if you intend to export more than €6,000,
you should declare it. Traveller’s cheques may be
exchanged at banks, bureaux de change (canvi in
Catalan, cambio in Spanish), some hotels and some
shops. Banks generally offer the best exchange rates.
The cheapest exchange rate may be offered on your
credit or direct debit card, which may be used in
cash dispensers displaying the appropriate sign.
A branch of La Caixa, the largest
BANKS AND BUREAUX money from cash machines. savings bank in Spain
DE CHANGE When you enter your PIN,
instructions are displayed in otherwise you may find that
As a rule of thumb, banks in Catalan, Spanish, English, your card gets blocked when
Catalonia are open from 8am French and German. Many you start using it in Barcelona.
to 2pm on weekdays. Some dispensers are inside build- When you pay with a card,
open until 1pm on Saturdays, ings these days, and to gain cashiers will usually pass it
but most are closed on access customers must run through a card reading
Saturdays from July through their cards through a door- machine. In shops you
September. Branches of some entry system. will always be asked for addi-
of the larger banks in the ServiCaixa cash dispensers tional photo ID. As leaving
centre of Barcelona are begin- can also be used to purchase your passport in the hotel
ning to extend their weekday theatre, concert and cinema safe is preferable, make sure
opening hours, but this is not tickets, a convenient way to that you have an alternative
yet a widespread practice. beat the queues for the most original document on hand
Most banks have a foreign popular shows. Credit for (photocopies will rarely do)
exchange desk signed Canvi/ mobile phones can also be such as a driver’s licence.
Cambio or Moneda estrangera/ topped up using one of Cards are not readily accepted
extranjera. Always take your these dispensers. in many smaller bars and
passport as proof of ID to restaurants, so it is advisable
effect any transaction. TRAVELLER’S CHEQUES to check first or carry some
You can draw cash on AND CARDS cash with you.
major credit and debit cards
at a bank. Several US and UK Traveller’s cheques issued by DIRECTORY
banks have branches in American Express (AmEx),
Barcelona, including Citibank, Travelex, and Thomas Cook FOREIGN BANKS
Barclays and Lloyds TSB. If you are all accepted in Spain. If
bank with them, you can cash you exchange AmEx cheques Barclays Bank
a cheque there. at an AmEx office, commis- Passeig de Gràcia 45.
A bureau de change, which sion is not charged. Map 3 A4. Tel 901 14 14 14.
is indicated by the sign The most widely accepted Citibank
Canvi/ Cambio, or the sign card in Spain is the VISA card, Passeig de Gràcia 7, 08007
“Change”, will invariably although MasterCard and Barcelona. Tel 93 344 17 38.
charge a higher rate of com- American Express are also
mission than a bank, but will taken in most parts of the Lloyds TSB Bank
often remain open after city. Credit cards are usually Rambla de Catalunya 123.
hours. Caixes d’estalvi/Cajas the cheapest method of pay- Map 3 A3. Tel 93 236 33 00.
de ahorro (savings banks) ment, as you are not charged
also exchange money. They commission and are given the
LOST CARDS AND
open from 8:30am to 2pm official rate of the day. All
TRAVELLER’S CHEQUES
on weekdays, and also on cash dispensers accept most
Thursdays from 4:30 foreign cards, although the American Express
to 7:45pm. commission charged depends Tel 902 37 56 37.
on your own bank. You may
ATMS be given the choice to pay Diners Club
the commission in either Tel 902 40 11 12.
If your card is linked to your Euros or in your home cur-
home bank account, you can rency. More and more cash MasterCard
use it with your PIN to machines are now closed at Tel 900 97 12 31 (toll free).
withdraw money from cash night, particularly in the old Travelex
dispensers/ATMs. Nearly all city, due to crime. Tel 900 99 89 07 (toll free).
dispensers take VISA or Mas- Before you travel, it is a
terCard. Cards with a Cirrus or good idea to phone your card VISA
Maestro logo can also be provider and bank to inform Tel 900 99 11 24 (toll free).
widely used to withdraw them that you will be abroad,
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 179

THE EURO Spanish peseta phased out in including designs of fictional

2002. EU members using the architectural structures and
The Euro (€) is the common Euro as sole official currency monuments. The coins,
currency of the European are known as the Eurozone. however, have one side
Union. It went into general Several EU members have identical (the value side),
circulation on 1 January 2002, opted out of joining this and one side with an image
initially for 12 participating common currency. Euro notes unique to each country. Notes
countries. Spain was one of are identical throughout the and coins are exchangeable
those countries, with the Eurozone countries, each one in all participating countries.

Euro Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven denomi-
nations. The €5 note (grey in col-
our) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple).
5 euros

10 euros

20 euros

50 euros

100 euros

200 euros

500 euros

2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents

Coins
The Euro has eight coin denominations: €1
and €2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents,
2 cents and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are
both silver and gold in colour. The 50-, 20-
and 10-cent coins are gold. The 5-, 2- and
1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
180 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Communications and Media

Public telephones, run by the Spanish telecommuni-
cations company Telefónica, are easy to find and
operate with a card or coins, but international calls
have a high charge. Depending on your service
provider, you may find it is cheaper to use your
mobile phone at roaming rates. The postal service,
Correos, is identified by a crown insignia in blue or
white on a yellow background. Registered mail can be Logo of the Spanish telecom system
sent from all Correos offices. These also sell stamps,
but it is more usual, and quicker, to buy them from you plan to make a lot of calls,
estancs (tobacconists). There are a number of Internet another good option is to buy
cafés based in the city centre. a Spanish top-up phone with
SIM card and number. A basic
phone can be bought for
INTERNATIONAL AND local calls, using the telephone about €30 and SIM cards are
LOCAL TELEPHONE CALLS system can be expensive. sold at most El Cortes Inglés
Calls from a hotel may also and FNAC stores.
Public telephone boxes incur a high surcharge. When using a mobile phone
(cabines) are available Reversed-charge (collect) in Spain, remember to dial
throughout the city, and pay- calls made to EU countries 00 followed by your national
phones can also be found in may be dialled directly, but dialling code (44 for the UK,
some bars and post offices. most others must be made 1 for the USA) before the
Both types take coins. There through the operator. number. Most mobile phone
is a high minimum connec- Spain abolished provincial operators will charge you to
tion charge, especially for area codes in 1998, so the full receive calls when using the
international calls, so it is best number, including the initial service outside of your
to ensure that you have plenty 9, must always be dialled, home country.
of change ready. Phonecards even from within the area.
are a more convenient option POSTAL SERVICE
and can be bought at estancs MOBILE PHONES
and newsstands. Some phones Correos, Spain’s postal service,
have electronic multilingual Spain currently has four is rather slow. It is better to
instruction displays. mobile phone operators: send any urgent or important
Calls can also be made from MoviStar (run by Telefónica), post by urgente (express) or
locutoris (public telephone Vodafone, Orange certificado (regis-
offices) and paid for afterwards. and Yoigo. Roaming tered) mail, or to
The cheapest offices are those rates vary widely use a private
away from the city centre. depending on agree- courier service.
Private ones, which are often ments between your Post can be regis-
located in shops, are usually service provider and tered and sent from
much pricier. the local Spanish all Correos offices.
The charges for international provider. Some However, it is
calls are divided into four operators offer spe- more convenient to
bands: EU countries; non-EU cial deals for travel- buy stamps for
European countries and North- ling in EU countries. postcards and letters
west Africa; North and South Check with your from an estanc
America; and rest of the service provider (tobacconists).
world. With the exception of before leaving. If Typical mailbox Postal rates fall into

USEFUL SPANISH DIALLING CODES

• When calling within a city, within a the initial digit of the destination’s
province, or to call another province, area code.
dial the entire number. The province is • For directory service, dial 11888.
indicated by the initial digits: Barcelona • For international operator service, dial 1408
numbers start with 93, Lleida 973, Girona (English- and French-speaking operators).
972 and Tarragona 977. • To make a reversed-charge (collect) call
• To make an international call, dial 00, to the UK only, dial 900 961682 (from a
followed by the country code, the area private landline or telephone box) and
code and the number. you will then be instructed to dial the
• Country codes are: UK 44; Eire 353; number required.
France 33; US and Canada 1; Australia 61; • To report technical faults, dial 1002.
New Zealand 64. When dialling overseas • The speaking clock and wake-up calls
numbers it may be necessary to omit can be accessed by dialling 1212.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 181

three price bands: Spain, centres, museums, sports clubs and the Financial Times.
Europe and the rest of the and libraries. A full list of muni- Others can be found a day
world. Parcels must be cipal hotspots can be found after publication. The European
weighed and stamped by on the local government web- newspaper and weekly news
Correos and must be securely site. Internet cafés are mainly magazines such as Time,
tied with string, or a charge based in the city centre and Newsweek and The Economist
may be made at the counter nearly all hotels have a com- are readily available. Catalonia
to have them sealed by a puter, or computers, for guests Today, a monthly newspaper
clerk. Smaller packages, like to send emails. Phone centres in English, is available at cen-
books, can be sent through (locutorios) also offer Internet tral kiosks and newsstands.
the yellow post boxes with access at a cheaper rate. The main Catalan-language
stamps bought from the newspapers are Avui and
estanc after weighing. TELEVISION AND RADIO El Periódico. La Vanguardia,
Main Correos offices open in Spanish, is published in
from 8:30am to 8:30pm Catalans have Barcelona and is widely
Monday to Friday and from a choice of respected. The Spanish
9:30am to 2pm on Saturday. watching TV3 newspapers El País,
Branches in the suburbs and in Catalan run El Mundo and ABC
in villages open from 9am to by the regional are also reliable.
2pm Monday to Friday and government, or Barcelona’s best
from 9:30am to 1pm TVE1 and weekly listings maga-
on Saturday. TVE2, Spain’s TV3 television zine in Spanish is Guía
two state television station logo del Ocio. The monthly
ADDRESSES channels. There is a Metropolitan and BCN
Catalan channel, Canal 33, Week (every two months) are
In Catalan addresses the street and five main Spanish published in English and
name is written first, followed independents: Antena 3, Tele- found in pubs, cinemas and
by the building number, the 5, Canal+ (Canal Plus), Cuatro bars. Also available is the
floor number, and the number and La Sexta. A regular foreign Catalan-language Time Out.
or letter of the apartment. For language news service
example, C/ Mir 7, 5è-A means is provided by
apartment A on floor 5 of Barcelona Televisio
building number 7 in Carrer (BTV). Most foreign
Mir. Carrer is often shortened films on television
to C/. Floor designations are: (and in cinemas) are
Baixos (ground floor), Entresol, dubbed. Subtitled
Principal, 1r, 2n and so on, films are listed as V.O.
meaning that 2n is in fact the (versión original).
4th level above the ground. There are a number
Some newer buildings use the of good cinemas in
less complicated designation Barcelona that show
of Baixos followed by 1r, 2n their films exclusively A newsstand on La Rambla in Barcelona
and so on upwards. The post- in V.O. Satellite chan-
codes have five digits; the first nels such as CNN, Cinemanía DIRECTORY
two are the province number. and Eurosport and many
other European channels are POST OFFICES
commonly provided in hotels.
The main radio stations are Central Post Office
Catalunya Ràdio (102.8FM) Plaça Antonio López s/n.
and COM Ràdio (100.4FM),
the Spanish state Radio Map 5 B3. Tel 934 868050.
Nacional de España (738FM),
and the independent stations INTERNET CAFES AND
Radio 2 (93.0FM), broadcasting OFFICE CENTRES
classical music, and Ser
Sign for an Internet hotspot (96.9FM), a Spanish general- Ciber Virreina
interest station.
c/ Asturies 78 (Gracia).
INTERNET AND EMAIL
NEWSPAPERS AND Map 3 B1. Tel 93 368 5770.
All hotels, airports and many MAGAZINES
bars in the centre have Internet Work Centers
hotspots, although often they Some newsagents and kiosks Ronda Universitat 13.
will charge you a small fee for in the city centre stock peri- Map 2 F1. Tel 93 481 41 48.
access and you will usually odicals in English. Newspa-
need to ask for a password. pers in English available on Roger de Lluria 2.
Barcelona has a free, non-user the day of publication are the Map 5 B1. Tel 93 390 83 54.
registration Wi-Fi service with International Herald Tribune, www.workcenter.es
185 municipal hotspots in civic the Guardian International
182 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION
C atalonia’s three main airports – El region’s major towns. Barcelona has a
Prat, Girona and Reus – receive well-developed ringroad (ronda) system,
international flights
from all over the globe.
While Barcelona’s El Prat
and a tunnel through the
Collserola Hills brings the
inland highways right into
mainly handles scheduled the city. Both its Metro and
services, Girona and Reus suburban train links are
deal with package holiday Spain’s national airline good, and most rural areas
flights. Rail networks and toll highways are served by intermittent bus services.
radiate from Barcelona to serve the For remote areas, a car may be required.

GREEN TRAVEL ARRIVING BY AIR Liverpool. Ryanair flies to

Girona and Reus airports from
As a tourist-intensive area, Barcelona’s El Prat airport is Birmingham, Bristol, Durham,
Catalonia faces environmental divided into two main Liverpool, Manchester,
challenges, especially around terminals: T1 and T2. Most Newcastle, Stansted, Luton,
the busy coastal areas. Trains international flights now arrive Bournemouth, East Midlands,
are an easy alternative to at T1 (including all flights Blackpool and Glasgow.
flying or taking the car, and operated by Iberia and British Delta Air Lines and United
international and national Airways). EasyJet is currently Airlines offer direct flights to
services are both efficient and operating from T2. If you Barcelona from the US. Iberia
economical (see p184). need to transfer between operates a comprehensive
The local Catalan train terminals, use the free bus service from both the
network – called Rodalies – shuttle service, which leaves United States and Canada.
provides access to most of the from outside each terminal. Catalonia’s other two
region, although to reach some Barcelona is served by airports mainly handle charter
rural areas without direct links, many international airlines. flights: Girona serves the Costa
such as the Montseny, the The Spanish national carrier, Brava, and Reus, near
Pyrenean mountain villages, Iberia, offers Tarragona, the
and La Garrotxa, you may have daily scheduled Costa Daurada.
to arrange a taxi connection. flights to There are
Barcelona has a number of Barcelona regular buses
cycle-hire shops and a growing from all west from Reus and
network of cycle lanes that European Sign for the shuttle service Girona to
provide access to all the major capitals. It also linking Barcelona and Madrid Barcelona. For
sights of the city. Bicing, the offers direct passengers
municipal government-run flights from several eastern arriving from Madrid or other
free cycle service, can be used European capitals. Spanish cities, Spain’s domes-
with a Bicing card and supplies British Airways offers daily tic flights are operated by
maps of the city’s cycle lanes. flights to Barcelona from Iberia and its associated
Though this is currently open Heathrow, Gatwick and East airlines Air Nostrum, Air
to residents only, commercial Midlands airports. EasyJet Europa and Spanair. Iberia’s
operators offer rentals to flies to Barcelona from low-cost carrier Vueling offers
visitors from around €10 for 2 Gatwick, Stansted, Luton, a good service from many
hours, to €60 for a week. Bristol, Newcastle and Spanish and European
destinations to Barcelona.
The most frequent shuttle
service between Madrid and
Barcelona (El Prat only) is
Iberia’s Pont Aeri (Puente
Aéreo). It flies every quarter
of an hour at peak times and
passengers can buy tickets
just 15 minutes in advance
using a self-ticketing machine.
The flight takes 50 minutes.
Other services between
Madrid and Barcelona are less
frequent but, on the whole,
their prices tend to be lower.
The major international car
rental companies (see p187)
have desks at both terminals
A waiting area in Barcelona’s El Prat airport of El Prat airport. Girona also
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 183

has some rental companies on TICKETS AND FARES transatlantic cruises between
site and cars can be delivered the US and Barcelona, as well
to Reus from nearby Tarragona. Air fares to Barcelona and the as cruises around the Medi-
There will also be local firms coastal resorts vary through terranean. Costa Cruises offers
offering tempting deals, but the year, depending on Mediterranean cruises starting
check the small print carefully. demand. They are generally in Barcelona, while Thomson
highest during the summer Cruises, in the UK, has cruises
GETTING TO BARCELONA months. Special deals, particu- calling at Barcelona, but start-
larly for weekend city breaks, ing out from Mallorca.
Barcelona airport is only 16 km are often available in the winter
(10 miles) away from the city. and may include a number of TRAVEL TO THE
There is a regular bus service nights at a hotel. Christmas and BALEARIC ISLANDS
to the city centre from both Easter flights are almost always
terminals, operating from 6am booked up well in advance. Barcelona is the main city on
until 1:05am and costing about Charter flights from the UK the Spanish mainland from
€5. It takes 25–30 mins from to Girona and Reus can be which to reach the Balearic
T2 and 35 mins from T1. The very cheap, but tend to be Islands. Flights are run by
final stop is in Plaça Catalunya, less reliable, and often fly at Iberia, Air Europa, Spanair
but there are also stops in Plaça unsociable hours. and Vueling. Balearia runs a
Espanya and along Gran Vía. Good deals can be found hydrofoil (a kind of catama-
The cheapest way to get to online to fly to Barcelona ran) service to Ibiza, which
the city is by train. There is a from other cities in Spain takes 8 hours. It also goes to
train every 20 minutes. A shut- through Vueling, Air Europa, Majorca, taking 7 hours, and
tle bus will take you to the air- Spanair or Iberia. Menorca, taking 4 hours. They
port train station from T1 and also offer car ferry crossings,
it is a 10-minute walk across SEA TRAVEL which take about 8 hours, by
the pedestrian flyover from T2. Acciona Trasmediterránea to
The city centre train stops are The Grimaldi Group has a ferry Ibiza, Majorca and Menorca. To
at Passeig de Gràcia and Sants. service between Civitavecchia travel to Formentera you need
There are plenty of taxis (near Rome) or Livorno (near to take a ferry service from
available from outside of both Florence) and Barcelona. Ibiza. It is wise to book in
terminals – join the queue at Atlas Cruises and Tours offers advance, especially in summer.
the taxi rank. Taxis to central
Barcelona are metered cost
between €20 and €30, depend-
ing on traffic, the time of day
and which terminal you are
using. There is a small supp-
lement added for journeys to
and from the airport and for
each piece of luggage.
A new Metro line, L-9,
which is due to open in 2014,
will run from Plaça Catalunya
to both airport terminals. Balearia car ferry to the Balearic Islands

DIRECTORY
AIRPORTS United Airlines Spanair Thomson Cruises
www.united.com Tel 902 13 14 15 (Spain). Tel 0871 230 2800 (UK).
Barcelona El Prat www.spanair.com www.thomson.co.uk/
Tel 902 40 47 04. Delta Air Lines
Tel 900 80 07 43 (Spain). cruises
Vueling
Girona Tel (800) 241 41 41 (US). Tel 807 200 200 (Spain).
Tel 902 40 47 04. www.delta.com TRAVEL TO THE
www.vueling.com
BALEARIC ISLANDS
Reus
EasyJet SEA TRAVEL
Tel 902 40 47 04.
Tel 807 07 00 70 (Spain). Acciona
Tel 0871 244 2366 (UK). Atlas Cruises & Tours Trasmediterránea
AIRLINES Tel (800) 942 3301 (US).
www.easyjet.com
Air Europa www.atlastravelweb.com Tel 902 45 46 45
Iberia, Air Nostrum
Tel 902 401 501 (Spain). (Spain). www.trans-
Tel 902 400 500 (Spain).
www.air-europa.com Costa Cruises mediterranea.es
Tel 0870 609 0500 (UK).
Tel 902 23 12 31 (Spain).
British Airways Tel (800) 772 4642 (US). Balearia
www.costacruceros.es
Tel 902 11 13 33 (Spain). Ryanair Tel 902 16 01 80 (Spain).
Tel 0844 493 0787 (UK). Tel 08712 460000 (UK). Grimaldi Group www.balearia.com
www.britishairways.com www.ryanair.com Tel 902 531 333 (Spain).
184 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Train and Metro

There are two providers of rail services TICKETS AND
in Catalonia. The Spanish national RENFE RESERVATIONS
(Red Nacional de Ferrocarriles
Españoles) operates Spain’s inter-city Tickets for Talgo, AVE, Alvia,
international trains and all
services, including first-class fast Talgo other long-distance travel by
and AVE trains and some of Barcelona’s train may be bought at any of
commuter services (Rodalies). The the major RENFE railway sta-
Catalan government’s FGC (Ferrocarrils tions from the taquilla (ticket
de la Generalitat de Catalunya) runs office). They are also sold by
Metro and FGC some suburban trains in Barcelona and travel agents, plus a booking
rail services sign some special-interest services in Catalonia’s fee. Tickets can be purchased
provinces. Barcelona also has the Metro, an efficient on the RENFE website, and
long-distance train tickets
city-wide network of underground (subway) trains. have a 60 per cent discount if
bought online at least 15 days
EXPLORING in advance. During the peak
CATALONIA BY months (July to September),
TRAIN many of the most popular
inter-city routes, particularly
Catalonia has a network to the coasts, are booked up
of regional trains weeks in advance, so it is
(regionals) covering worth planning ahead. You
the whole of Catalunya can also reserve tickets by
and run by RENFE. phone (see directory). They
There are three types – are held for 48 hours (up to
Trains on the platform at one of the Media Distancia 2 hours before the train
Barcelona’s major railway stations and Talgo linking the leaves) and can be collected
main towns with few at main stations.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN stops in between, and the Tickets for local and regional
Regional trains which take services can be purchased
There are direct international longer and stop frequently. from station booking offices.
train services to Barcelona A high-speed Euromed service In some larger stations, they
from several European cities from Barcelona to Tarragona can also be bought from ticket
including Paris, Montpellier, (continuing south to Castelló, machines. Tickets for Rodalies
Geneva, Zurich and Milan. València and Alacant/ Alicante) (local services) cannot be
Sleeping compartments can leaves from Estació de Sants. reserved. A one-way journey
be booked on direct service FGC (Ferrocarrils de la in Catalan is anada and a
overnight trains. Generalitat de round trip is anada i tornada.
All trains enter- Catalunya) is
ing the eastern a network of DIRECTORY
side of Spain suburban trains
from France go run by the Cata- PUBLIC TRANSPORT
through Port Logo of the Spanish national lan government
Bou/Cerbère or rail service in and around RENFE Information and
La Tour de Carol Barcelona. FGC Credit Card Bookings
on the Franco-Spanish border. also runs some special services,
Tel 902 320 320.
Travelling to Barcelona from such as the rack railway (cog
departure points not offering railroad) from Ribes de Freser www.renfe.es
a direct service may mean (see inside back cover) to
picking up a connection here. Núria in the Pyrenees and La Secretaria General de
International trains arrive at Cremallera, which runs up to Juventud (Young People’s
Sants mainline station, located Montserrat. It also runs the Tourist Office)
in the centre of Barcelona. cable cars and funiculars at
Services from Barcelona to the Monastery of Montserrat Carrer de Calàbria, 147.
other cities in Spain are fast (see pp122–3) and at Vallvidr- Tel 93 483 83 83.
and frequent. Overnight trains era, as well as several historic
are offered by Estrella (a basic steam trains and an electric FGC Information
service) to Madrid, A Coruña train for tourists. Details are Tel 93 205 15 15.
and Vigo, and by Trenhotel (a available at the FGC station at
www.fgc.es
more sophisticated service) to Plaça de Catalunya or by call-
Seville and Málaga. AVE runs ing the FGC number listed in TMB Information
a high-speed train between the Directory.
Barcelona and Madrid, the Most trains are accessible for Tel 93 318 70 74 or 012.
journey takes 3 hours, and the disabled – it is worth check- www.tmb.cat
there are 17 services a day. ing at the time of booking.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 185

being added over the coming

years. When completed in
2014, the L9 will be the long-
est Metro line in Europe.

BARCELONA TICKETS
AND TRAVELCARDS

A range of tickets and money-

saving travel cards are availa-
ble to tourists. Some cover
train, bus and Metro. Com-
bined tickets allow travellers
Ticket machines in use at one of Barcelona’s Metro stations to hop from Metro to FGC to
bus lines without leaving the
TRAIN FARES the city, especially as all multi- station to pay again.
journey tickets are valid for Tickets are as follows: T-dia
Fares for rail travel depend the Metro and FGC lines (in and T-mes are for unlimited
on the speed and quality of Zone 1), as well as on the bus daily and monthly travel
the service. Talgo and AVE and local RENFE services. A respectively; the senzill ticket,
trains are more expensive RENFE or FGC sign at a Metro for one single journey, can be
than local and regional trains. station indicates that it has a used on Metro, bus and FGC;
RENFE offers discounts to RENFE or FGC connection. the T-10, which can be
children and people over 60, Metro trains run from 5am shared and is the most useful
groups of ten and through to midnight from Monday to for tourists, allows ten trips
travel cards on local, regional Thursday, to midnight on and combines journeys on
and long-distance trains. Sunday and weekday public Metro, bus and FGC in one
Interrail tickets are available holidays, from 5am to 2am on trip (with a time limit of an
for people of all ages from EU Friday and the day before a hour and a half); the T-50/30
member states and Switzer- public holiday, is for 50 jour-
land. Eurail tickets are for and all night on neys in 30 days
residents of non-European Saturdays. on Metro, bus
countries (note that you will Barcelona is and FGC.
need to prove your residence in the process Details of
status to train staff). These of building a special tourist
tickets offer discounts on rail new Metro line, travel cards
travel and can be purchased the L9, which are on the
at Estació de Sants and will eventually A one-way (single) Metro ticket inside back
Estació de França stations. reach the air- for Barcelona’s subway cover of this
Young Person’s cards are port and pass guide. There
available through the through the heart of the city. are 2-, 3-, 4- and 5-day travel-
Secretaria General de Juven- There are currently five new cards available which offer
tud and are intended for stops on the L9 on the out- unlimited journeys on the
people under 26, of any skirts of the city, with more Metro, FGC and bus.
nationality. They offer a dis-
count of up to 20 per cent on USING A METRO TICKET MACHINE
journeys from any point in
Spain to Europe. To purchase
these, you will need to have
proof of your age and identity. Insert tickets that
3 c Insert coins.

don’t work to
THE BARCELONA METRO make a duplicate.
3 b Insert
banknote(s).
There are seven underground
Metro lines in Barcelona, run
by TMB (Transports Metropoli-
3 a Insert credit
card.

tans de Barcelona). Lines are Press to ask for

identified by number and col-
our. Platform signs distinguish
information. 2 Select ticket:
senzill (single
trip), T-10 (10
between trains and their direct- trips), T-50/30 (50
ion by displaying the last trips in 30 days),
then choose the
station on the line. In the area and quantity.
street it is easy to spot a Metro
station – look for a sign bear-
ing a red “M” on a white dia-
4 Collect your
ticket and
change due. 1 Select
language:
mond background. Catalan/Spanish,
The Metro is usually the English, French.
quickest way to get around
186 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Car and Bus

Driving conditions in Catalonia A country of origin sticker
vary enormously, from the dense must be displayed on the rear
road network and heavy traffic in of foreign vehicles. All drivers
and around Barcelona to almost must carry a red warning
triangle, spare light bulbs, a
empty country roads in the visibility vest and a first-aid
Barcelona road signs
provinces, where villages – and in kit. Failure to do so will incur
particular petrol (gas) stations – an on-the-spot fine.
can be far apart. Toll highways (autopistes) are fast and
free-flowing, but the ordinary main roads along the DRIVING IN CATALONIA
coast are usually very busy at all times of day. For
tourists without private cars, joining an organized bus At junctions give way to the
tour is a good way to visit well-known, but rather right unless directed otherwise.
Left turns across the flow of
more remote, places of interest. traffic are indicated by a
canvi de sentit sign.
Speed limits for cars without
trailers are: 120 km h
(75 mph) on autopistes and
autovies (toll and non-toll
motorways/highways);
90 km h (56 mph) on carre-
teres nacionals (main roads),
carreteres comarcals (second-
ary roads); 80 km h (50 mph)
on Barcelona’s ring roads and
30 or 40 km h (19 or 25 mph)
in urban areas. There are
A toll motorway, a popular way of travelling across the region on-the-spot speeding fines of
up to €520.
ARRIVING BY CAR there, it is best to book in The blood alcohol legal
advance and they will meet limit is 0.5 g per litre (0.25 mg
Many people drive to Spain your requirements. Avis offers per litre in a breath test) –
via the French motorways deals in chauffeur-driven cars tests are frequently given
(highways). The most direct from major cities. and drivers over the limit
routes across the Pyrenees are fined. Front and rear seat
are the motorways through belts must be worn. Ordinary
Hendaye in the west and La unleaded fuel (Súper 95),
Jonquera in the east. Port Bou superior unleaded fuel (Súper
is on a scenic coastal route, 98) and diesel (gas oil) are
while other routes snake over all available everywhere and
the top, entering Catalonia via sold by the litre.
the Vall d’Aran, Andorra, and
Puigcerdà in the Cerdanya. Logo of the National ATESA AUTOPISTES
From the UK, car ferries run car-rental company
from Plymouth to Santander On toll motorways (auto-
and from Portsmouth to TAKING YOUR OWN CAR pistes), tolls are calculated per
Bilbao in northern Spain. kilometre driven. Over some
A green card from a car insur- stretches near cities a fixed
CAR RENTAL ance company is needed to toll is charged. You collect a
extend your comprehensive ticket from the peagte (toll
International car rental compa- cover to Spain. In the UK, the booth/plaza) when you join
nies, such as Hertz, Avis and RAC, AA and Europ Assistance the autopiste, and pay when
Europcar, as well as some have rescue and recovery you leave. You must join one
Spanish ones, such as National policies with European cover. of three channels at the peatge:
ATESA, operate all over Catalo- Vehicle registration, insur- Automàtic has machines for
nia. You are likely to get better ance documents and your credit cards; in Manual an
deals with international com- driver’s licence must be carried attendant takes your ticket
panies if you arrange a car at all times. Non-EU citizens and money; for Teletac you
from home. A hire car is un should obtain an international need an electronic chip
cotxe de lloguer. Catalonia’s driver’s licence; in the US, on your vehicle’s windscreen
three main airports (see these are available through (windshield).
p182) have car rental desks. the AAA. You may also be Autopistes have emergency
However, those at Girona and asked for a passport or telephones every 2 km (1.25
Reus have irregular opening national identity card as extra miles) and service stations
hours, so if you need a car proof of identification. every 40 km (25 miles).
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 187

PARKING

Central Barcelona has a pay-

and-display system from 9am
to 2pm and 4 to 8pm Monday
to Friday and all day Saturday.
You can park in blue spaces
for about €2–3 per hour. Tick- An Alsa long-distance bus
ets are valid for 2 hours but
can be renewed. Green spac- LONG-DISTANCE BUSES DIRECTORY
es are reserved for residents
but can be used, if available, Spain’s largest inter-city bus CAR RENTAL
at a higher rate and are free company, Alsa, is an agent for
at off-peak hours. Eurolines. This runs regular Avis
At underground car parks services from all over Europe Tel 93 298 36 00
(parking lots), lliure means to Sants bus station in (Barcelona airport).
there is space, complet Barcelona. Buses from Tel 902 18 08 54.
means full. Most are towns and cities in www.avis.es
attended, but in auto- Spain arrive at Estació
matic ones, you pay del Nord and Sants. Europcar
before returning to Several companies Tel 902 10 50 30.
your car. Do not park run day trips or longer www.europcar.es
where the pavement No parking at
tours to places of Hertz
edge is yellow or any time of day interest in Catalonia. Tel 902 402 405.
where there is a pri- Turisme de Catalunya
www.hertz.es
vate exit (gual). Blue and red (see p175) has details of trips
signs saying “1–15” or “16–30” to Catalonia; in other towns, National ATESA
mean you cannot park in the tourist offices can help with Tel 93 521 90 95.
areas indicated on those dates tours in their provinces. (Barcelona airport).
of the month. Tel 902 100 101.
BUSES IN BARCELONA
www.atesa.es
TAXIS
The main city buses are white
TAXIS
Barcelona’s taxis are yellow and red. You can buy a single
and black, and display a green ticket on the bus, or a T-10 Radio Taxis
light when they are free. All ten-trip ticket at Metro stations, Tel 93 303 30 33.
taxis are metered and show a valid for bus, Metro and FGC
Tel 93 225 00 00.
minimum fee at the start of a (see p185). Other combined
Tel 93 420 80 88 (taxis for
journey. Rates increase after tickets are described inside the
10pm and at weekends, back cover. The Nitbus runs the disabled).
although the minimum fee nightly from around 10pm to
stays the same. In unmetered 5am, and the Aerobus offers a TOUR BUS OPERATORS
taxis, such as those in villages, service between Plaça de Cat- Alsa
it is best to negotiate a price alunya and El Prat airport. A
Tel 90 242 22 42.
for the trip before setting off. good way to sightsee is by
Supplements are charged for Bus Turístic. It runs all year on Bus Turístic
going to and from the airport three routes from Plaça de www.barcelonabusturistic.cat
and for suitcases. Radio Taxis Catalunya. A ticket, bought on
have cars adapted for disabled board, is valid for all three Eurolines
people, but they need to be routes and lets you get on and Tel 08717 81 81 81 in UK.
booked a day ahead. They also off as you please. Julià Tours Tel 90 240 50 40 in Spain.
have some cars that will take and Pullmantur also offer Julià Tours
up to seven people. tours of Barcelona.
Tel 93 317 64 54.
Pullmantur
Tel 93 317 12 97.

BUS STATIONS
Estació del Nord
Carrer d’Alí Bei 80.
Tel 90 226 06 06.
www.barcelonanord.com
Estació de Sants
Plaça del Països Catalans.
Tel 90 226 06 06.
A busy taxi rank in Barcelona
188 B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R

BARCELONA STREET FINDER

T he map references given
with the sights, shops
and entertainment venues
described in the Barcelona sec-
tion of the guide refer to the
pp134–41), restaurants (see
pp146–51) and cafés and bars
(see pp152–3). The schematic
map below shows the areas of
the city covered by the Street
street maps on the following Finder. The symbols for sights,
pages. Map references are also features and services are listed in
given for Barcelona’s hotels (see the key at the foot of the page.
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KEY TO STREET FINDER

Major sight Golondrina boarding point Police station
Place of interest Cable car Church
Other building Funicular station Post office
Main train station Tramway stop Railway line (railroad)
Local (FGC) train station Taxi rank Pedestrianized street
Metro station Parking SCALE OF MAP PAGES
Main bus stop Tourist information 0 metres 250

Bus station Hospital with A&E unit 0 yards 250

 B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R 189

Street Finder Index

A Barceloneta, Moll de la 5B4
Barceloneta, Plaça de la 5B4
Casanova, Carrer de 2E1
Cascades, Passeig de les 1A2
Drassanes,
Avinguda de les 2F3
Abaixadors, Carrer dels 5B3
Barceloneta, Platja de la 6D5 Cascades, Plaça de les 1B2 Duc de la Victòria,
Abdó Terradas, Carrer d’ 3B2
Basea, Carrer de 5B3 Casp, Carrer de 3B5 Carrer del 5A1
Agullers, Carrer dels 5B3
Beates, Carrer de les 5B2 Castell, Avinguda del 1B4 Duc de Medinaceli,
Agustí Duran i Sanpere,
Benet Mercadé, Carrer de 3A1 Castella, Plaça de 2F1 Plaça del 5A3
Carrer d’ 2F2
Berenguer, Passatge de 4D3 Castillejos, Carrer de los 4F1 Duran i Bas, Carrer de 5A1
Alaba, Carrer d’ 6F1 Catalunya, Plaça de 5A1
Berga, Carrer de 3A1
Alba, Carrer de l’
Albareda, Carrer d’
3C2
2E4
Bergara, Carrer de 5A1 Catalunya, Rambla de 3A3 E
Bergnes de las Casas, Catedral, Avinguda de la 5A2 Egipcíaques,
Alcalde de Móstoles, Carrer 4E2 Cendra, Carrer de la 2E2 Carrer de les 2F2
Carrer de l’ 4E1 Bertrellans, Carrer de 5A1 Centelles, Passatge de 4F3 Elisabets, Carrer d’ 2F2
Alcanar, Carrer d’ 5C5 Bisbe, Carrer del 5B2 Cera, Carrer de la 2E2 Elkano, Carrer d 2D3
Aldana, Carrer d’ 2E3 Bisbe Laguarda, Chopin, Carrer de 1A1 Enamorats, Carrer dels 4E4
Alí Bei, Passatge d’ 6F1 Carrer del 2E2 Cid, Carrer del 2F4 Encarnació, Carrer de l’ 4D1
Alí Bei, Carrer d’ 5C1 Blai, Carrer de 2D3 Cigne, Carrer de 3A1 Entença, Carrer d’ 1C1
& 6D1–6E1 Blanqueria, Carrer de la 5C2 Circumval.lació, Erasme de Janer,
Alió, Passatge d’ 4D3 Blasco de Garay, Passeig de 5C3–6D4 Carrer d’ 2E2
Allada, Carrer de l’ 5C2 Carrer de 2D3 Cirera, Carrer de la 5B2 Escorial, Carrer de l’ 4D2
Almirall Aixada, Blesa, Carrer de 2D4 Ciudad Real, Carrer de 3C2 Escudellers, Carrer dels 5A3
Carrer de l’ 5B5 Bòbila, Carrer de 1C2 Ciutat, Carrer de la 5A2 Escudellers,
Almirall Cervera, Bocabella, Passatge de 4D5 Clip, Passatge de 4E2 Passatge dels 5A3
Carrer de l’ 5B5 Bofill, Passatge de 4E4 Còdols, Carrer dels 5A3 Escudellers Blancs,
Almogàvers, Carrer dels 6D2 Bogatell, Avinguda del 6E2 Colom, Passeig de 5A4 Carrer dels 5A2
Alzina, Carrer d’ 3C1 Bolívia, Carrer de 6F1 Colomines, Carrer de 5B2
Escuder, Carrer d’ 5B4
Amadeu Vives, Carrer d’ 5B1 Boltres, Carrer d’En 5A3 Comerç, Carrer del 5C3
Espanya, Moll d’ 5A4
Amargòs, Carrer de N’ 5B1 Bonavista, Carrer de 3B2 Comercial, Carrer de 5C2
Espanya, Plaça d’ 1B1
Ample, Carrer 5A3 Boné, Passatge de 4E1 Comercial, Plaça de 5C3
Esparteria, Carrer de l’ 5B3
Amposta, Carrer d’ 1A1 Bonsuccés, Carrer del 5A1 Comtal, Carrer de 5A1
Espaseria, Carrer de l’ 5B3
Andrea Dòria, Carrer d’ 5C4 Boquer, Carrer d’En 5B2 Comte d’Urgell,
Est, Carrer de l’ 2F3
Àngel, Plaça de l’ 5B2 Boqueria, Carrer de la 5A2 Carrer del 2E1
Estadi, Avinguda de l’ 1A2
Àngels, Carrer dels 2F2 Boqueria, Plaça de la 5A2 Comte Borrell,
Àngel Baixeras, Carrer d’ 5A3 Estruc, Carrer d’ 5B1
Bordeta, Carretera de la 1A1 Carrer del 2D1
Anníbal, Carrer d’ 1C3 Exposició, Passeig de l’ 1C3
Boria, Carrer de la 5B2 Comte de Salvatierra,
Antic de Sant Joan, Bosch, Carrer de 3A2 Carrer del 3A2
Carrer 5C3 Bot, Carrer d’En 5A2 Comtes, Carrer dels 5B2
F
Antiga de Mataró, Far, Camí del 1B5
Botella, Carrer d’En 2E2 Concepció,
Carretera 6E2 Boters, Carrer dels 5A2 Passatge de la 3A3 Farell, Carrer del 1A1
Antóni López, Plaça d’ 5B3 Bou de Sant Pere, Concòrdia, Carrer de la 1C2 Ferlandina, Carrer de 2E1
Antóni Maura, Plaça d’ 5B2 Carrer del 5B1 Congost, Carrer del 3C1 Ferran, Carrer de 5A2
Aragó, Carrer d’ 3A4 Bous les Arenes, Plaça 1B1 Conradí, Passatge 4D3 Ferrer de Blanes,
Arai, Carrer de N’ 5A3 Bretón de los Herros, Consell de Cent, Carrer de 3B2
Arc de Sant Agustí, Carrer de 3A1 Carrer del 3A4 Flassaders, Carrer dels 5C2
Carrer de l’ 2F3 Bruc, Carrer del 3B3 Consolat de Mar, Floridablanca, Carrer de 1C1
Arc del Teatre, Brugada, Plaça de 5C5 Carrer del 5B2 Flors, Carrer de les 2E3
Carrer de l’ 2F4 Bruniquer, Carrer de 3C1 Copons, Carrer d’En 5B2 Fonollar, Carrer del 5B2
Arcs, Carrer dels 5A2 Buenaventura Muñoz, Corders, Carrer dels 5B2 Font, Carrer de la 2D4
Argenter, Carrer de l’ 5B1 Carrer de 6D2 Còrsega, Carrer de 3A3 Font, Passatge de 4E4
Argenteria, Carrer de l’ 5B2 Cortines, Carrer d’En 5C2 Font, Plaça de la 5C4
Argentona, Carrer d’ 4D1 C Corts Catalanes, Font Florida, Carrer de la
Font Honrada,
1A1
Aribau, Carrer d’ 2F1 Ca l’Alegre de Dalt, Gran Via de les 1A1
Armada, Plaça de l’ 2D5 Carrer de 4D1 Cremat, Gran Carrer de 5B2 Carrer de la 1C2
Arolas, Carrer d’en 5A2 Cabanes, Carrer de 2E4 Creu dels Molers, Font-Trobada,
Arq.Sert, Carrer de l’ 6F2 Cadena, Passatge de la 5C4 Carrer de la 1C3–2D3 Cami de la 2D4
Assaonadors, Carrer dels 5B2 Calàbria, Carrer de 2D1 Cucurulla, Carrer de 5A2 Fontanella, Carrer de 5A1
Astúries, Carrer d’ 3B1 Call, Carrer del 5A2 Fontrodona, Carrer d’En 2D3
Ataülf, Carrer d’ 5A3 Camprodon, Carrer de 3C3 D Franca Xica, Carrer de la
Francesc Cambó,
1C2
Atlantida, Carrer de l’ 5B5 Camps Elisis, Dàlia, Carrer de la 1A1
Aulèstia i Pijoan, Passatge dels 3B4 Dante, Plaça de 1C4 Avinguda de 5B2
Carrer d’ 3A1 Canadell, Passatge de 4F3 Diagonal, Avinguda de 3A2– Francesc d’Aranda,
Aurora, Carrer de l’ 2E2 Canó, Carrer del 3B2 3C4 & 4D4–4F5 Carrer de 6E2
Ausiàs Marc, Carrer d’ 5B1 Canuda, Carrer de la 5A1 Diluvi, Carrer del 3B2 Francisco Giner,
Avinyó, Carrer d’ 5A3 Canvis Nous, Carrer dels 5B3 Diputació, Carrer de la 3A5 Carrer de 3B2
Capellans, Carrer dels 5A2 Doctor Aiguader, Fraternitat, Carrer de la 3B2
B Carabassa, Carrer d’En 5A3 Carrer del 5B4 Frederic Mompou,
Carrer de 6F3
Badia, Carrer de 3B1 Cardenal Casañas, Doctor Joaquim Pou,
Bailèn, Carrer de 3C2 Carrer del 5A2 Carrer del 2F2 Freixures, Carrer de les 5B2
Baix, Carrer de 1C2 Carders, Carrer dels 5C2 Doctor Pons i Freixas, Fusina, Carrer de la 5C2
Balboa, Carrer de 5C4 Carles Buïgas, Plaça de 1B2 Plaça del 6D4 Fusta, Moll de la 5A4
Balears, Moll de les 5A5 Carlos Ibáñez, Plaça de 2D4 Doctor Rizal, Carrer del 3A2 Fusteria, Carrer de la 5B3
Balmes, Carrer de 3A1–3A5 Carme, Carrer del 2E2 Doctor Trueta, Carrer del 6E3
Baluard, Carrer del 5C4 Carrera, Carrer d 2E4 Domènech, Carrer de 3B2 G
Banyoles, Carrer de 3C2 Carretes, Carrer de les 2E2 Domingo, Passatge de 3A4 Gaiolà, Passatge de 4D4
Banys Nous, Carrer de 5A2 Carsi, Passatge de 4F3 Don Carles, Carrer de 6D4 Gal.la Placídia, Plaça de 3A1
Banys Vells, Carrer de 5B2 Cartagena, Carrer de 4F1 Drassana, Carrer de la 5B5 Gaudí, Avinguda de 4E3
190 B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R

Joaquín Costa, Carrer de 2F2 Marquès de Barberà, Navas, Plaça de las 1C2
G Jonqueres, Carrer de les 5B1 Carrer del 2F3 Neptú, Carrer de 3A2
Gaiolà, Passatge de 4D4 Marquès de Campo Sagrado, Niça, Carrer de 4F1
Josep Anselm Clavé,
Gal.la Placídia, Plaça de 3A1 Carrer del 2D2 Nogués, Passatge de 4E2
Carrer de 5A3
Gaudí, Avinguda de 4E3 Marquès de Comillas, Nord, Carrer del 1A1
Josep Carner, Passeig de 2E5
Gaudí, Plaça de 4E3 Avinguda del 1A1
Josep Ciurana, Carrer de 4F1 Notariat, Carrer del 2F2
Gegants, Carrer dels 5A2 Marquès de l’Argentera,
Jovellanos, Carrer de 5A1 Nou de la Rambla,
Gelí, Carrer de 5C5 Avinguda del 5B3
Judici, Carrer del 5B5 Carrer 2D4
General Álvarez de Castro, Marquès de la Foronda,
Julià, Carrer de 1C3 Nou Sant Francesc,
Carrer del 5B2 Plaça del 1B2
Julià, Passatge de 1C3 Carrer 5A3
General Bassos, Marquesa, Carrer de la 5C3
Julià Portet, Carrer de 5B1 Nova, Plaça 5A2
Passatge de 6F3 Martí, Carrer de 4D1
Julian Romea, Carrer 3A2
General Castaños,
Carrer de 5B3
Junta del Comerç,
Carrer de 2F3
Martínez de la Rosa,
Carrer de 3B2
O
Gessamí, Carrer del 1A1 Obradors, Carrer dels 5A3
Martras, Passatge de 1C3 Ocata, Carrer d’ 5C3
Gignàs, Carrer d’En 5A3
Gimbernat, Carrer dels 1B1 L Mas Casanovas,
Carrer del 4F1
Olímpic, Passeig 1A4
Ginebra, Carrer de 5B4 Laforja, Carrer de 3A1 Olivera, Carrer de l’ 1C2
Laietana, Via 5B1 Massanet, Carrer de 5B2 Olles, Plaça de les 5B3
Giralt el Pellisser, Massens, Carrer de 3C1
Carrer d’En 5B2 Lancaster, Carrer de 2F3 Om, Carrer de l’ 2E3
Legalitat, Carrer de la 4D1 Mata, Carrer de 2E4 Or, Carrer de l’ 3B1
Girona, Carrer de 3C3 Mateu, Carrer de 3B1
Glòries Catalanes, Leiva, Carrer de 1B1 Oreneta, Carrer d’ 3A1
Lepant, Carrer de 4E1 Meer, Carrer de 5B5 Ortigosa, Carrer de 5B1
Plaça de les 4F5 Méndez Núñez,
Gombau, Carrer de 5B2 Lincoln, Carrer de 3A1
Goya, Carrer de 3A2 Llançà, Carrer de
Llàstics, Carrer d’En
1B1
5C2
Carrer de
Méndez Vigo,
5C1
P
Goya, Plaça de 2F1 Pablo Neruda, Plaça de 4E4
Llavalloll, Passatge de 4D2 Passatge de 3B4
Gràcia, Carrer de 3B2 Padilla, Carrer de 4F1
Lleialtat, Carrer de la 2E3 Mercader, Passatge de 3A3
Gràcia, Passeig de 3A2–3A5 Pagès, Passatge de 4D5
Lleida, Carrer de 1B2 Mercaders, Carrer dels 5B2
Gràcia, Travessera de 3A2 Palau, Carrer del 5A3
Lleó, Carrer de l 2F2 Mercè, Carrer de la 5A3
Gran de Gràcia, Carrer 3A2 Palaudàries, Carrer de 2E4
Lleona, Carrer de la 5A2 Meridiana, Avinguda 6D2
Granada del Penedès, Palla, Carrer de la 5A2
Llibertat, Carrer de la 3B2 Mestrança, Carrer de la 5B5
Carrer de la 3A2 Pallars, Carrer de 6E2
Llibertat, Plaça de la 3A1 Metges, Carrer dels 5C2
Grases, Carrer de 1C2 Palma, Carrer de la 1C3
Llibreteria, Carrer de la 5A2 Mèxic, Carrer de 1B1
Grassot, Carrer d’En 4D2 Palma de Sant Just,
Llorens i Barba, Migdia, Passeig del 1A4
Gravina, Carrer de 2F1 Carrer de la 5B3
Carrer de 4F1 Milà i Fontanals,
Gregal, Moll de 6F5 Paloma, Carrer de la 2E1
Lluís Companys, Carrer de 3C3
Guàrdia, Carrer de 2F3 Pamplona, Carrer de 4F5
Passeig de 5C2 Milans, Carrer de 5A3
Guàrdia Urbana, C de la 1B2 & 6F1–6F3
Lluís Millet, Plaça de 5B1 Milton, Carrer de 3A1 Paral.lel, Avinguda del 1B1
Guatila, Carrer de la 1A1
Llull, Carrer de 6D2 Minerva, Carrer de 3A2 1C2 & 2D2–2F5
Guifré, Carrer de 2F2
Lluna, Carrer de la 2F2 Minici Natal, Passeig de 1A3 Parc, Carrer del 5A3
Guilleries, Carrer de les 3B1
Louis Braille, Carrer de 5A3 Mirador, Plaça del 1C5 Pare Eusebi Millan,
Guinardó, Ronda del 4E1
Luis Antúnez, Carrer de 3A2 Mirallers, Carrer dels 5B3 Plaça del 1A2
Guítert, Carrer de 5C5
Miramar, Avinguda de 1B3 Pare Laínez, Carrer del 4D2

H M Miramar, Carretera de
Miramar, Passeig de
2D5
2D4
Parlament, Carrer del 2D2
Madrozo, Carrer dels 3A1 Parlament, Passatge del 2D2
Havana, Carrer de l’ 5C5 Mistral, Avinguda de 1C1
Magalhäes, Carrer de 1C3 Patriarca, Passatge del 5A1
Hipòlit Lázaro, Carrer d’ 4D2 Moianés, Carrer del 1A1
Magdalenes, Pau, Passatge de la 5A3
Hispanitat, Plaça de la 4E4 Moles, Carrer de les 5B1
Carrer de les 5B1 Pau Claris, Carrer de 3B3
Hort de Sant Pau, Molí, Camí del 1A5
Maiol, Passatge de 4E4 Pedreres, Carrer de les 1C2
Carrer de l’ 2E3 Molí Antic, Camí del 1A5
Malcuinat, Carrer del 5B3 Pedró, Plaça del 2E2
Hortes, Carrer de les 2D3 Mònec, Carrer d’En 5C1
Mallorca, Carrer de 3A4 Pelai, Carrer de 2F1
Hospital, Carrer de l’ 2E2 Monistrol, Carrer de 3C2 Penedès, Carrer del 3B2
Manresa, Carrer de 5B3
Montalegre, Carrer de 2F2 Pere Costa, Carrer de 4F1
Manso, Carrer de 2D2
I Manuel Ribé, Platja de 5A2
Montanyans, Pere IV, Carrer de 6E2
Icària, Avinguda d’ 6E3 Avinguda dels 1A2 Pere Serafí, Carrer del 3B1
Manufactures,
Igualada, Carrer d’ 3C2 Montcada, Carrer de 5B3 Perill, Carrer del 3B2
Passatge de les 5B1
Indústria, Carrer de la 3C2 Montjuïc, Camí de 1C5 Perla, Carrer de la 3B1
Maquinista, Carrer de la 5B4
Isabel II, Passatge d’ 5B3 Montjuïc, Parc de 1C3 Permanyer, Passatge de 3B5
Mar, Carrer del 5B5
Iscle Soler, Carrer d’ 4D3 Montjuïc, Passeig de 2D4 Pescadors, Carrer dels 5B5
Mar, Rambla de 5A4
Montmany, Carrer de 3C1 Pescadors, Moll dels 5A5
Mare de Déu del Remei,
J Carrer de la 1C2
Montseny, Carrer del 3B1
Montserrat, Passatge de 2F4
Petons, Carrer dels
Petritxol, Carrer de
5C2
5A2
Jaén, Carrer de 3B1 Mare de Déu dels
Montsió, Carrer de 5A1 Peu de la Creu,
Jaume Giralt, Carrer de 5C2 Desemparats,
Morabos, Carrer dels 1A1 Carrer del 2F2
Jaume Fabra, Carrer de 1C2 Carrer de la 3B2
Moscou, Carrer de 6D4 Pi i Margall, Carrer de 4D1
Jaume I, Carrer de 5A2 Margarit, Carrer de 1C3
Mosques, Carrer de les 5B3 Pi, Carrer del 5A2
Jesús, Carrer de 3B2 Maria, Carrer de 3B2
Mossèn Jacint Verdaguer, Pi, Plaça del 5A2
Joan Blanques, Carrer de 3C2 Marià Cubí, Carrer de 3A1
Plaça de 3C3 Picasso, Passeig de 5C3
Joan Casas, Passatge de 4F5 Marina, Carrer de la 4E2–4E5
Mozart, Carrer de 3B2 Pintor Fortuny, Carrer del 2F2
Joan d’Austria, Carrer de 6E1 & 6E1–6E4
Muntaner, Carrer de 2F1 Piquer, Carrer de 2D3
Joan de Borbó, P de 5B4 Marina, Moll de la 6E5
Marina, Passatge de la 4E1 Murillo, Carrer de 2D3 Pizarro, Carrer de 5C4
Joanic, Plaça d’En 3C1
Joaquim Blume, Carrer de 1B2 Mariner, Passatge de 4D3 Plata, Carrer de la 5A3
Joaquim Pou, Carrer de 5B2 Mar i Terra, Passatge 2E4 N Poeta Boscà, Plaça del 5B4
Joaquim Renart, Marítim de Nova Icária, Nacional, Passeig 5B5 Poeta Cabanyes,
Passeig de 6D2 Passeig 6E4 Nàpols, Carrer de 4D2–4D5 Carrer del 2D3
Joaquim Ruyra, Marítim del Port Olímpic, & 6D1–6D2 Polvorí, Camí del 1A1
Carrer de 4D2 Passeig 6E4 Narcis Oller, Plaça de 3A2 Pompeu Gener, Plaça de 5C4
 B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R 191

Portaferrissa, Roger de Flor, Carrer de Sant Pere d’Abanto, Tigre, Carrer del 2E1
Carrer de la 5A2 4D2–D5 & 6D1–6D2 Carrer de 1A1 Til·lers, Passeig dels 5C2
Portal de l’Angel, Roger de Flor, Sant Pere Martir, Topazi, Carrer del 3B1
Avinguda del 5A1 Passatge de 4D3 Carrer de 3B2 Tordera, Carrer de 3B2
Portal de la Pau, Roger de Llúria, Sant Pere Mes Alt, Torrent de les Flors,
Plaça del 2F4 Carrer de 3B3 Carrer de 5B1 Carrer del 3C1
Portal de Santa Madrona, Roig, Carrer d’En 2F2 Sant Pere Mes Baix, Torrent de l’Olla,
Carrer del 2F4 Romans, Carrer de 4D1 Carrer de 5B2 Carrer del 3B3
Portal Nou, Carrer del 5C2 Ros de Olano, Carrer de 3B1 Sant Pere Mitja, Torrent d’en Vidalet,
Prat, Rambla del 3A1 Rosa, Carrer de la 5A3 Carrer de 5B1 Carrer del 3C2
Princep d’Astúries, Rosa Sensat, Carrer de 6F3 Sant Rafael, Carrer de 2F3 Torres, Carrer de 3B2
Avinguda del 3A1 Rosalía de Castro, Sant Ramon, Carrer de 2F3
Torres, Passatge de les 4E3
Princep de Viana, Carrer de 4F2 Sant Roc, Carrer de 1A1
Torres i Amat, Carrer de 2F1
Carrer del 2E2 Roser, Carrer del 2D3 Sant Sebastià, Platja de 5B5
Torrevella, Carrer de 6D4
Princesa, Carrer de la 5B2 Rosselló, Carrer del 3A3 Sant Sever, Carrer de 5A2
Torrijos, Carrer de 3C2
Rull, Carrer d’En 5A3 Sant Vincenç, Carrer de 2E2
Progrés, Carrer del 3B2 Trafalgar, Carrer de 5C1
Santa Anna, Carrer de 5A1
Provença, Carrer de 3A3
Providència, S Santa Carolina, Carrer de 4F2
Tragí, Carrer de
Traginers, Plaça dels
5B2
5B3
Sagrada Família, Santa Dorotea, Carrer de 1A1
Carrer de la 4D1 Trelawny, Carrer de 6D4
Plaça de la 4D3 Santa Elena, Carrer de 2E3
Prunera, Passatge de 1C2 Tres Pins, Carrer dels 1B4
Sagristans, Carrer dels 5B2 Santa Eugènia, Carrer de 3A1
Puig i Xoriguer, Tres Senyores,
Salamanca, Carrer de 5C5 Santa Eulàlia, Carrer de 3C2
Carrer de 2E4 Carrer de les 3C1
Salvà, Carrer de 2D3 Santa Madrona,
Puigmartí, Carrer de 3B2 Unió, Carrer de la 2F3
Salvador, Carrer del 2E2 Carrer de 2E3
Pujades, Carrer de 6F2 Univers, Plaça de l’ 1B1
Salvador Espriu, Santa Madrona,
Pujades, Passeig de 6D2 Universitat, Plaça de la 2F1
Carrer de 6E4 Passeig de 1B3
Purissima Concepció, Santa Magdalena, Universitat, Ronda de la 2F1
Sancho de Ávila,
Carrer de la 1C3 Carrer de 3B1 Utset, Passatge d’ 4E4
Carrer de 6E1
Sant Agustí, Carrer de 3B3 Santa Mònica, Carrer de 2F4
Q Sant Agustí, Plaça de 2F3 Santa Rosa, Carrer de 3B1 V
Quevedo, Carrer de 3C2 Sant Agustí Vell, Santa Tecla, Carrer de 3B3 València, Carrer de 3A4
Plaça de 5C2 Santa Teresa, Carrer de 3B3 Valldonzella, Carrer de 2F1
R Sant Antoni, Ronda del 2E2 Saragossa, Carrer de 3A1 Vallfogona, Carrer de 3B1
Rabí Rubén, Carrer del 1A1 Sant Antoni Abat, Sardana, Plaça de la 2D4 Vallhonrat, Carrer de 1C2
Radas, Carrer de 1C3 Carrer de 2E2 Sardenya, Carrer de 4E2–4E5 Ventalló, Carrer de 4D2
Rambla, del 5A1 Sant Antoni Maria Claret, & 6E1–6E2 Venus, Carrer de 3B2
Rambla del Raval, la 5A1 Carrer de 4D2 Seca, Carrer de la 5B3
Verdaguer i Callís,
Ramis, Carrer de 3C2 Sant Benet, Passatge de 5C1 Secretari Coloma,
Carrer de 5B1
Ramon Turró, Carrer de 6E3 Sant Bertran, Carrer de 2E4 Carrer del 4D1
Verdi, Carrer de 3B1
Ramon y Cajal, Sant Carles, Carrer de 5B4 Sedata, Jardí de la 4D2
Vermell, Carrer 5C2
Carrer de 3B2 Sant Climent, Carrer de 2E2 Segons Jocs Mediterranis,
Verntallat, Carrer de 3C1
Raspall, Plaça del 3B2 Sant Cristòfol, Carrer de 3A1 Carrer dels 1B2
Viada, Carrer de 3C1
Ratés, Passatge de 6F1 Sant Domènec, Seneca, Carrer de 3A2
Vicenç Martorell, Plaça de 5A1
Rauric, Carrer d’En 5A2 Carrer de 3B2 Sepúlveda, Carrer de 1C1
Serra, Carrer d’En 5A3 Victòria, Carrer de la 5C1
Rec, Carrer del 5C3 Sant Domènec del Call,
Sert, Passatge de 5C1 Vigatans, Carrer del 5B2
Rec Comtal, Carrer del 5C2 Carrer de 5A2
Sevilla, Carrer de 5B5 Vila de Madrid,
Rector Oliveras, Sant Elm, Carrer de 5B5
Sicília, Carrer de 4D2–4D5 Plaça de la 5A1
Passatge del 3B4 Sant Erasme, Carrer de 2E2
Sant Ferriol, Carrer de 1A1 & 6D1 Vila i Vilà, Carrer de 2E3
Regàs, Carrer de 3A1
Sant Francesc de Paula, Sidé, Carrer de 5B2 Viladecols, Baixada de 5B2
Regomir, Carrer del 5A3
Carrer de 5B1 Sils, Carrer de 5A3 Viladomat, Carrer de 2D1
Reial, Plaça 5A3
Sant Fructuós, Carrer de 1A1 Simó, Passatge de 4E3 Vilafranca, Carrer de 3C1
Reig i Bonet, Carrer de 4D1
Sant Gabriel, Carrer de 3A1 Simó Oller, Carrer de 5A3 Vilamarí, Carrer de 1C1
Reina Amàlia,
Sant Germà, Carrer de 1A1 Siracusa, Carrer de 3B2 Vilanova, Avinguda de 6D1
Carrer de la 2E2
Sant Gil, Carrer de 2E2 Sitges, Carrer de les 5A1 Vilaret, Passatge de 4F3
Reina Cristina,
Sant Honorat, Carrer de 5B2 Sol, Carrer del 3B1 Villarroel, Carrer de 2E1
Carrer de la 5B3
Sant Isidre, Carrer de 1C3 Sol, Plaça del (Gràcia) 3B1 Villena, Carrer de 6D3
Reina Maria Cristina, Sol, Plaça del (Montjuïc) 1B3
Sant Jaume, Plaça de 5A2 Vinaròs, Carrer de 5C5
Avinguda de la `1B2 Sombrerers, Carrer dels 5B3
Sant Jeroni, Carrer de 2F3 Vinyassa,
Rellotge, Moll del 5B5 Sòria, Carrer de 5C5
Sant Joan, Passeig de 3C2–3C5 Passatge de la 6F2
Revolució de Setembre Sortidor, Plaça del 2D3
& 5C1 Vinyeta, Passatge de la 2D4
de 1868, Plaça de la 3B1 Sota Muralla, Pas de 5B3
Sant Joaquim, Carrer de 3B2 Virtut, Carrer de la 3B1
Ribera, Carrer de la 5C3 Sots-tinent Navarro,
Sant Josep Oriol, Vistalegre, Carrer de 2E2
Ribes, Carrer de 4E5 & 6D1 Carrer de 2F3 Carrer del 5B2 Voluntaris Olímpics,
Ricart, Carrer de 1C2 Sant Lluís, Carrer de 3C1 Plaça dels 6E4
Riera Alta, Carrer de la 2E2
Riera Baixa, Carrer de la 2F2
Sant Marc, Carrer de 3A1 T
Riera de Sant Miquel,
Sant Martí, Carrer de
Sant Miquel, Baixada de 5A2
2E3 Tallers, Carrer dels
Tamarit, Carrer de
2F1
1C2
W
Carrer de la 3A2 Wellington, Carrer de 6D3
Sant Miquel, Carrer de 5B5 Tànger, Carrer de 6F1
Riereta, Carrer de la 2E2 Sant Oleguer, Carrer de 2F3 Tantarantana, Carrer d’En 5C2
Ripoll, Carrer de 5B2 Sant Pacià, Carrer de 2E3 Tàpies, Carrer de les 2E3 X
Rius i Taulet, Sant Pau, Carrer de 2E3 Tapineria, Carrer de la 5B2 Xaloc, Moll de 6F5
Avinguda de 1B2 Sant Pau, Ronda de 2E2 Tapioles, Carrer de 2D3 Xiquets de Valls,
Rius i Taulet, Plaça de 3B2 Sant Paulí de Nola, Tarròs, Carrer d’En 5B2 Carrer dels 3B2
Robador, Carrer d’En 2F3 Carrer de 1A1 Tasso, Passatge de 4D5 Xuclà, Carrer d’En 5A1
Robí, Carrer del 3B1 Sant Pere, Passatge de 4E1 Taxdirt, Carrer de 4E1
Roca, Carrer d’En 5A2 Sant Pere, Plaça de 5C1 Templaris, Carrer dels 5A3 Z
Rocafort, Carrer de 2D1 Sant Pere, Ronda de 5A1 Terol, Carrer de 3B1 Zamora, Carrer de 6F1
 Pl. DE JOAN CAR

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OLIMPICS G
SEI
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D
PORT OLÍMPIC
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Hotel Arts Torre Mapfre

CARLES

Hospital ELL
A
Nostra REV A
TOR ET PASSEIG MARITIM DEL PORT OLIMPIC
Sra del Mar ON
EL
RC
BA
MOLL DE LA MARINA

LA
DE NE
TA
IM LO
RIT RCE
MA BA
SS EIG LA Port Olimpic
PA DE
MOLL DE GREGAL

TJA
PLA

Centre
Municipal
MOLL DE XALOC De Vela

M e d i t e r r á n e o
198 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Assumpció (Assumption Day) 36 Blai, Pere 57
main entries Atlas Cruises and Tours 183 Blanes 120
ATMs 178 Blay, Miquel
A L’Auditori de Barcelona Museu d’Art Modern
Addresses 181 (Barcelona) 163 (Barcelona) 63
Adolfo Domínguez (Barcelona) Augustus, Emperor 54 Museu Comarcal de la
155 Australian Consulate 177 Garrotxa
Adventure sports 170 Autopistes (Olot) 115
Aeroclub de Sabadell 171 (motorways/highways) 186–7 Palau de la Música Catalana
Aïguamolls de l’Empordà 171 Autumn in Catalonia 36 (Barcelona) 63
Air Europa 182 Avis 187 Boadas (Barcelona) 163
Air Nostrum 182 Boats
Air travel 182– 3
Airborne activities 170
B golondrinas (Barcelona) 65
Balaguer 109 Museu Marítim (Barcelona) 69
Akhila, King of the Visigoths 42 Balearia 183 sailing 171
Albéniz, Isaac 19 Balearic Islands sea travel 183
Alfonso II, King of Aragón sea travel 183 Bofill, Guillem 116
Monestir de Poblet 126 Bank notes 179 Bofill, Ricard 89, 99
Puigcerdà 114 Banking 178
Alfonso III, King of Aragón Bonaparte, Joseph 45
conquest of Mallorca 43 Banyoles 115 Bookshops 155
Alfonso XIII, King of Spain 95 Baqueira-Beret 113 La Boqueria (Barcelona) 155
Almodóvar, Pedro 18, 19 Barcelona El Born
Almogàvers 43 airport 182– 3 Walk 102–3
Amargós, Josep 63 cafés and bars 152– 3 Borrassà, Lluís 28
Amatller d’Art Hispanic 78 Eixample 70– 83 Bossòst 112
Ambulances 176, 177 entertainment 162–9 Bourbon dynasty
American Express 178 festes 34–37 Carlist Wars 46
Amposta 129 Further Afield 92– 9 Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Amusement Park 163 hotels 134–7 89
Andorra 114 maps 14–15, 50–51, 188–97 War of the Spanish Succession
Andorra la Vella 114 Metro 185 44–45
Angelico, Fra 95 Montjuïc 84– 91 British Airways 182
Antiga Casa Figueres Old Town 52– 69 Buigas, Carles 87, 89
(Barcelona) 26 Quadrat d’Or 72– 3 Buigas, Gaietà 65
Antilla Barcelona (Barcelona) 163 restaurants 146– 8 Bulevard Rosa (Barcelona) 155
Antiques shops 155 shopping 154– 61 Bureaux de Change 178
Antoni Desvalls, Joan 98 trains 184 Buses 187
Any Nou (New Year) 36 Barcelona, Counts of 42 Butterflies of the Vall d’Aran
Apolo (Barcelona) 163 Barcelona Football Club 95, 163 112
Aquarium (Barcelona) 68 Museu del Futbol Club
Aqüeducte de les Ferreres Barcelona 94 C
(Tarragona) 129 Barceloneta 67 Caballé, Montserrat 19
Arc de Berà (Tarragona) 129 Barclays Bank 178 Cadaqués 109, 120
Arc del Triomf (Barcelona) 65 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 53 Costa Brava 121
L’Arca de l’Àvia (Barcelona) 155 Street-by-Street map 54–5 Cadí-Moixeró 114
Archaeological Museum Barri Xinès (Barcelona) 60, 176 Caesar, Julius 120
(Barcelona) Barruera 113 Cafés and Bars 152–3, 163
see Museu Arqueològic Bars 142, 152– 3 La Caixa de Fang
Arché, Rafael 65 designer bars 163 (Barcelona) 155
Architecture Bartomeu, Mestre 28 CaixaForum 98
Gaudí and Modernisme 24– 5 Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar Calçats E Solé (Barcelona) 155
Romanesque Art and (Barcelona) 64 Caldes de Boí 113
Architecture 22–23 Bassa, Ferrer 28, 95 Cambrils 128
La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7 Batlló i Casanovas, Josep 76 Camp Nou stadium 94
Aribau, Bonaventura 45
Beaches Camp sites 133
Armand Basi (Barcelona) 155
Arribas, Alfredo 89 Costa Brava 121 Camprodon 115
Art Costa Daurada 128 Canadian Consulate 177
Catalan Painting 28–9 Beatus of Liébana, St 114 Canaletto 88
Romanesque Art and Bed and breakfast 133 Canary Islands
Architecture 21–23 Beget 115 map 13
stores 155 Begur 121 Cantada d’havaneres 35
see also Museums and Berenguer, Francesc 99 Cardona 124
galleries Berga Cardona, Dukes of 124, 126
Art Cristià workshops 28 festes 34 Carlist Wars (1833 – 9) 41, 45,
Arties 112 Berga i Boix, Josep 28 46
Associació de Campings de Besalú 115 Carlos IV, King of Spain 126
Barcelona 133 Betty B (Barcelona) 155 Carnestoltes 37
Associació Catalana d’Estacions Beuys, Joseph Carnival 37
d’Esquí Chamber of Pain 99 Carreras, Josep (José) 19, 162
i Activitats de Muntanya Bicycling 170 Cars 186–7
(ACEM) 171 Bike Tours Barcelona 170 Carthage 41
Associació Fondes de Catalunya Bird-watching 170 Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona) 56
133 Black Virgin 123 Street-by-Street map 54
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 199

Casa Battló (Barcelona) 24, 25, Charles the Bald, King of the Dalí, Salvador (cont.)
78, 76–7 Franks 114 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres)
Casa de la Ciutat (Barcelona) 57 Charles Martel, King of the 117
Street-by-Street map 54 Franks 42 Dalmau, Lluís 28, 88
Casa Lléo Morera (Barcelona) 26 Cheques 143, 178 Dance 162, 163
Street-by-Street map 72 Christmas 36, 37 sardana 129
Casa Milà (Barcelona) 50, 78, 79 Churches in Barcelona Delta Air Lines 182
Street-by-Street map 73 opening hours 174–5 Delta de l’Ebre 129, 171
Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí Basílica de Santa Maria del Department stores 154, 155
(Figueres) 117 Mar 60 Desclot, Bernard 43
Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí Sagrada Família 24, 51, 71, 78, Design shops 155
(Cadaqués) 120 80–83 Dia de la Constitució 36
Casa Terrades (Barcelona) 79 Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Dia de la Hispanitat 36
Street-by-Street map 73 Cor 93, 98 Diada de Catalunya 36
Casa Vicens (Barcelona) 26 “Cistercian triangle” 125, 126 Dialling codes 180
Casals, Pau 19 Citibank 178 Dijous Sant (Maundy Thursday)
Museu Pau Casals (Sant 34
City Museum (Barcelona) see
Salvador) 128 Dilluns de Pasqua
Casas, Ramon 29, 63 Museu d’História de la Ciutat
Clavé, Josep Anselm 61 (Easter Monday) 36
Procession outside Santa Diners Club 178
Maria del Mar 28 Climate 21, 34–37
Climbing, safety 177 Disabled Accessible Travel 175
Cases de Pagès 133 Diumenge de Rams
Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) Clothes
in restaurants 142 (Palm Sunday) 34
50, 89 Divendres Sant (Good Friday)
Casteller festivals 35, 125 stores 154, 155
Cloud and Chair (Tàpies) 72 36
Castles Diving 171
Cardona 124 Club Fellini 168, 169
Clubs 163 Doctors 176
Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) Dolça of Provence 42
50, 89 Coins 179
Coll 113 Domènech i Montaner, Lluís
Torre Bellesguard (Barcelona) Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona)
98 Col·legi de les Teresianes 25
Collet, Charles 123 56
Catalan language 18–19, 174 Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona)
Catalonia 108–29 Colmado Quílez (Barcelona) 155
Columbus, Christopher 44 72, 78
Catalan painting 28–9
Fundació Antoni Tàpies
history 40–47 Barcelona Cathedral 58
(Barcelona) 72, 78
hotels 137–41 Dia de la Hispanitat 36
maps 12–13, 15, 110–11 Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
Monument a Colom
Portrait of Catalonia 17–19 Sant Pau (Barcelona) 71, 79
(Barcelona) 50, 60, 69 Modernisme 24
restaurants 150–51 Palau Reial Major (Barcelona)
The Cathedral of the Poor (Mir) 29 Museu de Zoologia
56 (Barcelona) 66
Cathedrals Come In (Barcelona) 155
Barcelona 51, 54, 58–9 Palau de la Música Catalana
Communications 180–81 (Barcelona) 63
Girona 116–7 Companys, Lluís
La Seu d’Urgell 114 Domènech i Montaner, Pere 79
arrest and imprisonment 46 Domènech i Roura, Pere 89
Lleida 124 Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Tarragona 129 Dona i Ocell (Miró) 94
89 Drassanes (Barcelona) 65
Vic 124 execution 47, 89
Cava Country 32–3 Durro 113
Concert season (Barcelona) 35
Central de Reservas 133 Consulates 177
Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
(Cadaqués) 120
Convergència i Unió 18, 47 E
Corpus Christi 34 Easter 34, 36
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta El Corte Inglés (Barcelona) 155
(Girona) 116 easyJet 182
CosmoCaixa 98 Ebre, Riu 129
Centre de Cultura
Contemporania 60 Costa Brava 109, 121 Eco-Museu (Delta de L’Ebre)
Centre Excursionista Costa Cruises 182 129
de Catalunya (Barcelona) 171 Costa Daurada 128 Efficiencies see Self-catering
Street-by-Street map 55 Credit cards 143, 178 Eixample (Barcelona) 15, 70–83
Centre Municipal de Tennis Vall Crime 176–7 area map 71
d’Hebron 171 Currency 178– 9 cafés and bars 153
Centre Municipal de Vela Port Cycling 170 hotels 136–7
Olímpic 171 Quadrat d’Or: Street-by-Street
Cercle de Pessons 114 D map 72–3
Cerdà i Sunyer, Ildefons 24, 46 Dalí, Gala 117 restaurants 148
Eixample (Barcelona) 71 Dalí, Salvador 19, 29, 117 Sagrada Família 80–83
Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes Cadaqués 120 El Bosc de les Fades
(Barcelona) 99 Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí (Barcelona) 163
Cerdanya 114 (Figueres) 117 El Prat airport (Barcelona)
Cereria Subirà (Barcelona) 155 Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí 182–3
Cervantes, Miguel de 43 (Cadaqués) 120 El Vendrell 128
Chagall, Marc 120 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore Electrical adaptors 175
Charlemagne, Emperor 42, (Cadaqués) 120 Elisenda de Montcada de Piños
116–7 Rainy Taxi (Dalí) 117 95
200 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Emergencies 176 Flying clubs 170 Gaudí, Antoni (cont.)

Empúries 41, 120 Foix, Counts of 114 Sagrada Família (Barcelona)
Encants Vells (Barcelona) 155 Folguera, Francesc 122 24, 51, 71, 78, 80– 83
Entertainment 162–9 Font de Canaletes (Barcelona) Torre Bellesguard (Barcelona)
Erill-la-Vall 113 61 98
L’Escala 121 Font Màgica (Barcelona) 85 General Stores (Port Olímpic)
Escola Hípica 171 Street-by-Street map 87 67
Escribà Pastisseries (Barcelona) Fontseré, Josep Generalitat 17, 18, 47
155 Museu de Geologia Palau de la Generalitat
Escunhau 112 (Barcelona) 66 (Barcelona) 57
Esports 10 171 Parc de la Ciutadella Geology Museum (Barcelona)
Estació del Nord (Barcelona) 65 see Museu de Geologia
(Barcelona) 99, 187 Food and drink George, St 34
Estació de Sants 187 Cava Country 32–3 Girona 109, 116– 7
Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc The Flavours of Catalonia airport 182
(Barcelona) 89, 171 30–31 map 116
L’Estanc (Barcelona) 155 The Other Wines of Catalonia Golf 170
L’Estartit 121 32 Golf El Prat 171
Etiquette 174 stores 154, 155 Golf Sant Cugat 171
Eulàlia, St 58, 59 What to Eat 144–5 Golondrinas (Barcelona) 69
Eurolines 187 see also Restaurants Gothic art 28
Europcar 187 Football Goya, Francisco de 28
Barcelona Football Club 95, Gràcia
European Union 47 walk 104–5
163
Gran Teatre del Liceu
F Barcelona v Real Madrid 95
(Barcelona) 60
Falqués, Pere 72, 99 Museu del Futbol Club
Barcelona Granados, Enric 19
Fashion stores 154, 155 Grec Festival de Barcelona 35
Faust, Karl 120 (Barcelona) 94
Forest fires 177 El Greco 28, 88, 128
Federació ECOM 133 Grimaldi Group 183
Federació d’Entitats Forestier, Jean 62
Forment, Damià 127 Grup Aeri 171
Excursionistes Güell, Count Eusebi 46
de Catalunya 133 Fortuny i Marsal, Marià 29, 63
Foster, Norman 95 Palau Reial de Pedralbes
Felipe IV, King of Spain 44 (Barcelona) 95
Felipe V, King of Spain Four Great Days 10–11
Franco, General Francisco 47 Park Güell (Barcelona) 25,
Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) 96–7
89 Franks 42
Fundació Antoni Tàpies Guies del Pirineu 171
Diada de Catalunya 36 Guifré el Pelós (Wilfred the
Parc de la Ciutadella (Barcelona) 78
Hairy), Count of Barcelona 42
(Barcelona) 65 Street-by-Street map 72 Les Quatre Barres 114
La Seu Vella (Lleida) 124 Fundació Joan Miró (Barcelona) Ripoll 114
War of the Spanish Succession 88 Sant Joan de les Abadesses
45 Street-by-Street map 87 115
Felix, St 116
Fernando II, King of Catalonia- G H
‘Galeries’ 154, 155 Habsburg dynasty 44
Aragon 44, 56
Galleries see Museums and Hamil Barca 41
Ferrer, Pere 57 galleries
Festa del Treball 36 Hannibal 41
Galters, Charles 58, 59 Harlem Jazz Club (Barcelona)
Festa major de Gràcia Game hunting 170
(Barcelona) 35 163
Gandesa 111 Health 176
Festa major de Sants Gardens see Parks and gardens
(Barcelona) 35 Hertz 187
The Gardens at Aranjuez Highways see Motorways
Festa major de Vilafranca del (Rusiñol) 28
Penedès 35 Hiking 170– 71
Gargallo, Pau 61, 79 Hiring cars 186, 187
Festes 34–37 Garona, Riu 112
Festes de Sarrià i de Les Corts History 40– 47
Garraf, coast 109 Holidays, public 36
(Barcelona) 36 Garran, Maurici 67
Festivals 34–37 Holy Week 34
Gas see Petrol Homar, Gaspar 26
casteller 125 Gaudí, Antoni 19, 46, 78
FGC Information 184 Horse riding 170
Casa Battló (Barcelona) 24, Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
Field sports 170 25, 78, 76–7 Sant Pau (Barcelona) 79
Fiestas see Festes Casa Milà (Barcelona) 50, 73, Hospitals 176, 177
Figueres 117 78, 79 Hotels 132– 41
Fira de Sant Ponç (Barcelona) 34 Casa Vicens (Barcelona) 26 Barcelona 134– 7
Fire Brigade 177 death 60 booking and check-in 132
Fires, forest 177 Gaudí and Modernisme 24–5 Catalonia 138–141
Fishing 170 Palau Güell (Barcelona) 24–5, disabled travellers 133
Fiveller, Joan 57 60, 62 grading and facilities 132
Flags Palau Reial de Pedralbes Paradors 132
Les Quatre Barres 114 (Barcelona) 95 prices and paying 132
Flame in Space and Naked Parc de la Ciutadella rural accommodation 133
Woman (Miró) 88 (Barcelona) 65 Huguet, Jaume
Flor, Roger de 43 Park Güell (Barcelona) 96–7 Museu Nacional d’Art de
Flowers of the Matollar 20–21 Plaça Reial (Barcelona) 61 Catalunya (Barcelona) 88
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 201

Huguet, Jaume (cont.) Llívia 114 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig
Palau Reial Major (Barcelona) Lloret de Mar 121 Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
57 festes 35 (Barcelona) 89
St George and the Princess 28 La Llotja (Barcelona) 63 Milà family 79
Human towers 125 Lloyds TSB Bank 178 Mir, Joaquim 63
Hunting 170 Llúria, Roger de 43 The Cathedral of the Poor 29
Lotto, Lorenzo 88 Mirablau (Barcelona) 163
I Luke, St 123 Miró, Joan 29, 19, 86
Iberia 182 Lull, Ramon 43 Barcelona School of Fine Arts
Iberians 41 Luminists 29 60
Ice-skating 170 Luna, Bigas 19 Dona i Ocell 94
Illa de la Discòrdia Flame in Space and Naked
(Barcelona) 78 M Woman 88
Street-by-Street map 72 Fundació Joan Miró
L’Illa (Barcelona) 155 Macià, Francesc 46 (Barcelona) 87, 88
Immaculada Concepció 36 Magazines 181 Museu de Ceràmica
Individual Travellers’ Spain 133 Magic Fountain (Barcelona) (Barcelona) 95
Inquisition 56 see Font Màgica Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Insurance Mancomunitat 46 94
holiday (vacation) 177 La Manuel Alpargatera Plaça de la Boqueria
motor 186 (Barcelona) 155 (Barcelona) 61
Internacional de Cotxes Maps Miró, Toni 19
d’Època 37 Barcelona 50–51, 188– 97 Mitjans, Francesc 94
International Exhibition (1929) 46 Barcelona: City Centre 14–15 Modernisme 19
Montjuïc 85 Barcelona: Further Afield 93 Eixample (Barcelona) 71
Museu Nacional d’Art de Barcelona: Quadrat d’Or 72–3 Gaudí and Modernisme 24–5
Catalunya (Barcelona) 88 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 54–5 La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe Canary Islands 13 Mansana de la Discòrdia
(Barcelona) 89 Catalonia 15, 110–11 (Barcelona) 78
Poble Espanyol (Barcelona) 89 Cava Country 32–3 Mompou, Frederic 19
Isabel of Castile 44, 56 Eixample (Barcelona) 71 Monasteries
Isozaki, Arata 89 Europe and North Africa 13 “Cistercian triangle” 125, 126
IVA see VAT Girona 116 Monestir de Montserrat 122–3
Montjuïc (Barcelona) 85, 86–7 Monestir de Poblet 126–7
J Old Town (Barcelona) 53 Monestir de Santa Maria
Jamboree (Barcelona) 163 La Rambla (Barcelona) 60–61 (Ripoll) 22, 114
Jardí Botànic Mar i Murtra La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7 Monestir de Santa Maria de
(Blanes) 120 Spain 12–13 Pedralbes (Barcelona) 95
Jaume I the Conqueror, King of Monestir de Santes Creus 125
Aragón 43, 57 Maragall, Pasqual 18, 47 Sant Joan de les Abadesses
Jaume II, King of Aragón 95 Maremagnum (Barcelona) 155 115
Barcelona Cathedral 58, 59 Marès i Deulovol, Frederic 56, Moneo, Rafael 99
court painter 28 127 Money 178– 9
Monestir de Santes Creus 125 Maresme, coast 109 Montblanc 125
Jazz 163 Mariscal, Javier 19, 89 Montjuïc (Barcelona) 14, 84– 9
Terrassa Jazz Festival 34 Maritime Museum (Barcelona) area map 85
Jazz Room 167 see Museu Marítim Street-by-Street map 86–7
Jews 56 Marketing Ahead 133 Castell de Montjuïc 50, 89
Besalú 115 Markets 155 Montserrat 122–3
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta Mercat de San Josep Monturiol i Estarriol, Narcís 117
(Girona) 116 (Barcelona) 60 Monument a Colom
expulsion of 44 Martí the Humanist 57, 98 (Barcelona) 50, 60, 69
Joan, Pere 129 Martín de Cermeño, Juan 64 Moors 42, 44
Juan, Don of Austria 65 Martorell, Bernat Tortosa 129
Juan II, King of Aragón 126 The Transfiguration 59 La Moreneta 123
Juan Carlos, King of Spain 47 Martorell i Peña, Francesc 66 Morning (Kolbe) 89
Jujol, Josep Maria 79 Martorell, Joanot 43, 44 Motor insurance 186
Parc Güell (Barcelona) 99 Mas i Fontdevila, Arcadi 29 Motorways (highways) 186–7
Julià Tours 187 MasterCard 178 Murals, Gothic art 28
Mateu, Pau 57 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 28
K Matollar Museums and galleries (general)
Keytel International 133 Flowers of the Matollar 20– 21 admission charges 175
Kolbe, Georg 86 opening hours 174
Morning 89 Wildlife of the Matollar 21 Museums and galleries
Medi Natural 171 (individual)
L Medical treatment 177
Meier, Richard 60
Barcelona Cathedral 59
Language 18–19, 174 CaixaForum 98
Legal assistance 177 Las Meninas (Picasso) 61 Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí
Lichtenstein, Roy 64 Menus 143, 144– 5 (Figueres) 117
Lithograph (Tàpies) 29 Mercat de les Flors (Barcelona) Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí
Llafranc 121 163 (Cadaqués) 120
Lleida 109, 124–5 Mercat de Sant Josep Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Llibreria Quera 171 (Barcelona) 60 89
Lliga de Catalunya 46 La Mercè (Barcelona) 36 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
Llimona, Josep 62, 63 Metro 185 (Cadaqués) 120
202 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Palau Moja (Barcelona) 61
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta Pretori i Circ Romans Palau de la Música Catalana
(Girona) 116 (Tarragona) 128–29 (Barcelona) 63, 163
CosmoCaixa 98 Sagrada Família (Barcelona) Palau Nacional (Barcelona) 50,
Eco-Museu (Delta de L’Ebre) 80 86, 88
129 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres) Palau Reial (Barcelona) 55
Fundació Antoni Tàpies 117 Street-by-Street map 55
(Barcelona) 78 Vinseum (Vilafranca del Palau Reial de Pedralbes
Fundació Joan Miró Penedès) 125 (Barcelona) 95
(Barcelona) 87, 88 Music Palau Sant Jordi (Barcelona) 89
Girona Cathedral 117 classical music 35, 162, 163 Palau de la Virreina (Barcelona)
Monestir de Montserrat 122 Museu de la Música 60
Museu Arqueològic (Barcelona) 73 Pallarès Grau, Manuel 60
(Barcelona) 87, 88 Palau de la Música Catalana Palm Sunday 34
Museu d’Art (Girona) 117 (Barcelona) 63 Parachute jumps 170
Museu d’Art Contemporani rock, jazz and world music 163 Paradors 132, 133
(Barcelona) 62 Terrassa Jazz Festival 34 Paragliding 170
Museu de Arts Decoratives Muxart 159 Paral·lel any 1930 (Roger) 8–9
(Barcelona) 95 Parc d’Atraccions (Barcelona) 98
Museu d’Autòmats
(Barcelona) 98
N Parc de la Ciutadella
Nadal (Christmas) 36, 37 (Barcelona) 51, 65
Museu Cau Ferrat Nagel, Andrés 94 Parc de l’Espanya Industrial
(Sitges) 128 Napoleon I, Emperor 36, 45 (Barcelona) 94
Museu Comarcal de la Conca Narcissus, St 116 Parc del Laberint d’Horta 98
de Barberà (Montblanc) 125 National ATESA 187 Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Museu Comarcal de la National parks 94
Garrotxa (Olot) 115 hiking 170–71 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes
Museu de Cera (Barcelona) 61 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes 113, 171
Museu de Ceràmica 113 Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró
(Barcelona) 95 Newspapers 181 114, 171
Museu de Ciències Naturals stores 155 Parc Natural del Delta de L’Ebre
(Edifici Geologia) Noche negra 47 129
(Barcelona) 66 Nonell, Isidre 63 Parc Zoològic (Barcelona) 66
Museu de Ciències Naturals Waiting for Soup 29 Park Güell (Barcelona) 96– 7
(Edifici Zoología) Parking 187
(Barcelona) 66 O Parks and gardens
Museu del Cinema (Girona) 117 Old Town (Barcelona) 15, 53–69 Jardí Botànic Mar i Murtra
Museu Diocesà (La Seu area map 53
d’Urgell) 114 (Blanes) 120
Museu Diocesà i Comarcal Barcelona Cathedral 58–9 Palau Reial de Pedralbes
(Solsona) 124 cafés and bars 152–3 (Barcelona) 95
Museu Episcopal de Vic 22, 124 hotels 134–6 Parc de la Ciutadella
Museu Etnològic (Barcelona) 87 La Rambla 60–61 (Barcelona) 51, 65
Museu Frederic Marès restaurants 146–8 Parc de l’Espanya Industrial
(Barcelona) 55, 56 Street-by-Street: Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 94
Museu del Futbol Club 54–5 Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Barcelona (Barcelona) 94 Oliva, Abbot 42, 124 94
Museu del Ganivet (Solsona) Olot 115 Park Güell (Barcelona) 96–7
124 Olot School 28, 115 Pasqua (Easter) 34
Museu d’Història de Catalunya Olympic Games (1992) 47 Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona)
(Barcelona) 68–9 Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc Street-by-Street map 72
Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (Barcelona) 89 Passports 174
– Plaça del Rei (Barcelona) Montjuïc (Barcelona) 85 Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
55, 56 Port Olímpic (Barcelona) 67 (Barcelona) 89
Museu d’Història de la Ciutat Torre de Collserola Street-by-Street map 86
(Girona) 117 (Barcelona) 95 Pelegrí de Tossa (Tossa de Mar)
Museu del Joguet (Figueres) Opening hours 37
117 banks 178 Peña Ganchegui, Luis 94
Museu Marítim (Barcelona) 69 churches 174 Peninsular War (War of
Museu Municipal (Tossa museums 174 Independence, 1808–14) 45
de Mar) 120 restaurants 142 Pepper, Beverley 99
Museu de la Música Otto Zutz (Barcelona) 163 Peratallada 120
(Barcelona) 73 Outdoor hazards 177 Pere IV the Ceremonious,
Museu Nacional Arqueològicc King of Aragon 43, 126
(Tarragona) 129 P Personal security 176– 7
Museu Nacional d’Art de Painting, Catalan 28– 9 Peter, St 123
Catalunya (Barcelona) 86, 88 Palamós 121 Petrol (gas) 186
Museu Pau Casals Palau Baró de Quadras Petronila of Aragon 42
(Sant Salvador) 128 (Barcelona) 26 Pharmacies 176
Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 64 Palau de la Generalitat Picasso, Jacqueline 61
Museu Tèxtil i d’Indumentária (Barcelona) 57 Picasso, Pablo 19, 29
(Barcelona) 61 Street-by-Street map 54 Barcelona School of Fine Arts
Museu de la Vall d’Aran Palau Güell (Barcelona) 24–5, 60
(Vielha) 112 60, 62 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
Museu de la Xocolata 65 Palau Macaya (Barcelona) 61 (Cadaqués) 120
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 203

Picasso, Pablo (cont.) Rebull, Joan Sant Jordi 34

Homenatge a Picasso Three Gypsy Boys 54 Sant Josep 34
(Barcelona) 63 Reccared, King of the Visigoths Sant Martí 114
Las Meninas 64 41 Sant Medir (Barcelona) 34
Museu de Ceràmica Reial Acadèmia de Ciències i Sant Miquel 36
(Barcelona) 95 Arts (Barcelona) 61 Sant Pere de Besalú 23
Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 64 Reis Mags 36, 37 Sant Pere de Camprodon 23
Pablo Picasso in Barcelona 64 Renaixença 45–6
Pilma (Barcelona) 155 Sant Pere de Galligants 23
RENFE 184
Piscines Bernat Picornell 171 Restaurants 142– 51 Sant Pere de Rodes 23, 117
Pista de Gel del FC Barcelona 171 Barcelona 146–9 Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
Pla, Francesc 28 Catalonia 150–51 cava 32–3
Plaça de la Boqueria eating hours 142 Santa Cristina (Lloret de Mar) 35
(Barcelona) 61 how to dress 142 Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona) 37
Plaça d’Espanya (Barcelona) 89 prices and paying 143 Santa Maria (Ripoll) 22, 113
Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes reading the menu 143 Santa Maria (Taüll) 113
(Barcelona) 99 smoking in 143 Santes Creus 125
Plaça Reial (Barcelona) 61 wheelchair access 143 Saportella, Francesca 95
Platja d’Aro 35, 121 What to Eat 144–5 Sardana (dance) 129
festes 37 wine choices 143
Poble Espanyol (Barcelona) 89 Science Museum (Barcelona)
see also Food and drink see CosmoCaixa
Street-by-Street map 86 Reus
Poblenou 99 Sea travel 183
airport 182
walk 106–7 Revellón 37 Self-catering (efficiencies) 133
Poblet see Monestir de Poblet Revetlla de Sant Joan 35 Sert, Josep Lluís
Police 176 Reynés, Josep 62 Fundació Joan Miró
Port Aventura 128 Ribera, José de 28 (Barcelona) 87, 88
Port Olímpic (Barcelona) 67 Riding 170 Sert, Josep-Maria 29, 124
Port Vell (Barcelona) 68 Rigalt, Lluís 26 Casa de la Ciutat (Barcelona)
Postal services 180 Ripoll 114 57
Prim, General 62 Road signs 186 Cathedral (Vic) 124
Primo de Rivera, Miguel 46 Rock music 163
Procession outside Santa Maria Setmana Santa (Easter week) 34
Rogent, Elies 64–5 La setmana tràgica (1909) 46
del Mar (Casas) 28 Roger, Emili Bosch
Public conveniences 177 La Seu d’Urgell 110, 114
Paral·lel any 1930 8–9 Shopping
Public holidays 36 Roig i Soler, Joan 29, 63
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep Barcelona 154–61
Roman remains 41
CaixaForum (Barcelona) 99 Sitges 111, 128
Casa Amatller (Barcelona) 78 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 54
Empúries 120 festes 34, 37
Casa Macaya (Barcelona) 27 Luminists 29
Casa Terrades (Barcelona) 73, Museu d’História de la Ciutat 57
Tarragona 128–9 Skating 170
79 Skiing 171
Modernisme 24 Vic 124
Romanesque Art and Baqueira-Beret 113
Museu de la Música 73
Palau Baró de Quadras Architecture 22–23 Smoking
(Barcelona) 26 Romeu, Pere 63 in restaurants 143
Puigcerdà 114 Ros i Güell, Antoni 26 Soler, Frederic 62
Pujol, Jordi 18, 47 Roses 121 Solsona 124
Pullmantur 187 Royal Palace see Palau Reial Spain
Pyrenees 114 Rural accommodation 133 map 12–13
Rusiñol, Santiago 29 Spanair 182
Q The Gardens at Aranjuez 28
Sitges 128
Spanish Civil War (1936–9) 47,
Quadrat d’Or (Barcelona) 129
Street-by-Street map 72–3 La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7
Ryanair 182 Speciality stores 154, 155
Les Quatre Barres 114 Speed limits 186
R S Sports 163, 170–71
Radio 181 Sabartes, Jaime 61 Spring in Catalonia 34
Radio Taxis 187 Safont, Marc 57 Student travellers 175
Rainfall 36 Sagnier, Enric 98 Subirachs, Josep Maria 80, 82
Rainy Taxi (Dalí) 117 Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 51, Summer in Catalonia 35
La Rambla (Barcelona) 51, 71, 78, 80–83 Sunshine 35
60–61 Gaudí and Modernisme 24 Super Esport 171
Ramon Berenguer I, Count of Sailing 171 Swimming pools
Barcelona 42, 59 St George and the Princess 170
Ramon Berenguer III, Count of (Huguet) 28 Synagogues 56
Barcelona 42 Salardú 112
Salou 128
Ramon Berenguer IV, Count of
Barcelona 42 Sant Carles de la Ràpita 129 T
Monestir de Poblet 126 Sant Climent de Taüll 22, 113 Tàpies, Antoni 19, 29
Monestir de Santes Creus 125 Sant Cristòfol de Beget 23 Cloud and Chair 72
El Raval (Barcelona) 62 Sant Jaume de Frontanyà 22, Fundació Antoni Tàpies
Raventós, Josep 32 114 (Barcelona) 72, 78
Raventós, Ramon 89 Sant Joan 36 Lithograph 29
Real Madrid Football Club 95 Sant Joan de les Abadesses 115 Tarragona 109, 128–9
204 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Taxes Turisme de Barcelona 175 W

in restaurants 143 Turisme de Catalunya 175 Waiting for Soup (Nonell)
tax-free goods 174 Tusquets, Oscar 19 29
Taxis 187
Teatre Grec (Barcelona) U Walking
Street-by-Street map 87 United Kingdom Consulate Guided Walks 100– 107
Teatre Lliure 163 175 El Born 102–3
Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres) 17 United States Consulate Gràcia 104–5
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya 175 Poblenou 106–7
(Barcelona) 163 Universal Exhibition (1888) 24, hiking 170–71
Telephones 180 46 La Ruta del Modernisme
emergencies 176 Arc del Triomf (Barcelona) 26–7
Teletiempo 171 65 safety 177
Television 181 Monument a Colom War of the Spanish Succession
Temperatures 37 (Barcelona) 69 44–45
Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor Museu de Zoologia Water sports 171
(Barcelona) 93, 98 (Barcelona) 66 Waxwork museum (Barcelona)
Tennis 170 Unlimited Youth Student see Museu de Cera
Terrassa Jazz Festival 34 Travel & Viatgeteca 175 Weather 21, 34– 37
Theatre 162, 163 Usatges (Constitution) Wheelchair access
Theft 176 42 see Disabled travellers
Theme parks Wildlife
Port Aventura 128 V bird-watching 170
Butterflies of the Vall d’Aran
Thirty Years War (1618–59) 44 Vall d’Aran 112
Thomson Cruises 182 Butterflies of the Vall d’Aran 112
Three Gypsy Boys (Rebull) 54 112 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes
Tibidabo (Barcelona) 98 Vall de Boí 113 113
amusement park 163 Vallmitjana, Agapit and Venanci Parc Natural del Delta de
Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 88 123 L’Ebre 129
Time zone 175 Valls Wildlife of the Matollar 21
Tipping 143 festes 35 Wine
Titian 88 Van Eyck, Jan 28 Cava Country 32–3
TMB Information 184 Van Gogh, Vincent 64 Museu del Vi (Vilafranca del
Toilets, public 177 VAT Penedès) 125
Torre Bellesguard (Barcelona) 98 in restaurants 143 The Other Wines of
Torre de Collserola (Barcelona) tax-free goods 174 Catalonia 32
95 Vayreda i Vila, Joaquim 28, 115 in restaurants 143
Torres de Avila (Barcelona) 163 Velázquez, Diego de 28, 61 Winter in Catalonia 37
Tortosa 129 Museu Nacional d’Art de Winter sports 171
Tossa de Mar 19, 120, 121 Catalunya (Barcelona) 88 Wirtzia, King of the Visigoths
festes 37 Verboom, Prosper 62 42
Tots Sants (All Saints’ Day) 36 Verdaguer, Jacint 45 World music 163
Tourist offices 133, 174, 175 Veronese, Paolo 95
Trains 184–5 Vespucci, Amerigo 65 X
The Transfiguration (Martorel) 59 Viajes 2000 175 El Xampanyet (Barcelona)
Trasmediterránea 182 Vic 124 163
Travel 182–87 Vielha 112 Xarxa d’Albergs de Catalunya
air travel 182–3 Viladomat, Antoni 28 133
buses 187 Vilafranca del Penedès 33, 125
cars 186–7 festes 35 Y
Catalonia 110 Vilanova Young People’s Tourist Office
golondrinas (Barcelona) 69 festes 37 184
Metro 185 Vilaseca i Casanovas, Josep 62
sea travel 182, 183 Villar i Lozano, Francesc de Z
taxis 187 Paula 81 Zoological Museum (Barcelona)
trains 184–5 Vinçon (Barcelona) 155 see Museu de Zoologia
Traveller’s cheques 178 Virgen del Carmen (Barcelona) Zoos
in restaurants 143 35 Parc Zoològic (Barcelona) 66
Travellers with Special Needs 175 Virgin of Montserrat 123 Zurbarán, Francisco de 28
in hotels 133 VISA 178 Monestir de Santa Maria de
in restaurants 143 Visas 174 Pedralbes 95
Travelex 178 Visigoths 41–2, 114 Museu Nacional d’Art de
Els Tres Tombs (Barcelona) 37 Vueling airlines 182–3 Catalunya (Barcelona) 88
 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 205

Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Picture credits
following people whose contributions and KEY: t=top; tl=top left; tlc=top left centre;
assistance have made the preparation of this tc=top centre; trc=top right centre; tr=top right;
book possible. cla=centre left above; ca=centre above;

Main Contributor cra=centre right above; cl=centre left;

Roger Williams contributed to the Eyewitness c=centre; cr=centre right; clb=centre left
Travel Guide to Spain and has written below; cb=centre below; crb=centre right
Barcelona and Catalonia titles for Insight below; bl=bottom left; b=bottom; bc=bottom
Guides. He was also the main contributor to centre; bcl=bottom centre left; br=bottom
the Eyewitness Travel Guide to Provence. right; bcr=bottom centre right; d=detail.
Lunch with Elizabeth David, set around the
Mediterranean, is his latest novel. Works of art have been reproduced with the
permission of the following copyright holders:
Additional Contributors
Mary Jane Aladren, Pepita Arias, Emma Dent Salvador Dalí Rainy Taxi and ceiling fresco in
Coad, Sally Davies, Rebecca Doulton, Josefina the Wind Palace Room, Teatre - Museu Dalí ©
Fernández, Nick Rider, David Stone, Judy Kingdom of Spain, Gala - Salvador Dalí Foun-
Thomson, Clara Villanueva, Suzanne Wales dation, DACS, London 2006; George Kolbe
(Word on Spain). Morning © DACS, London 2006; IOC/Olympic
Museum Collections; Joan Miró Dona i Ocell
Design and Editorial Assitance 1983 and Tapestry of the Foundation Joan
Amaia Allende, Queralt Amella Miró, Gillian Miró 1975 © Succession Miró/ADAGP, Paris
Andrews, Imma Espuñes i Amorós, Claire and DACS, London 2006.
Baranowski, Marta Bescos, Daniel Campi (Word
on Spain), Paula Canal (Word on Spain), Anna The publisher would like to thank the
Freiberger, Mary-Ann Gallagher, Alrica Green, following individuals, companies and picture
Lydia Halliday, Jessica Hughes, Claire Jones, libraries for their kind permission to reproduce
Juliet Kenny, Elly King, Priya Kukadia, Kathryn their photographs:
Lane, Caroline Mead, Sam Merrell, Barbara
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Susie Smith, Alícia Ribas Sos, Helen Townsend, 182bl; AISA, Barcelona: 14b, 18b, 23bl, Jaume
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176bl; ALAMY IMAGES: Douglas Armand 97cra;
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206 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

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 P H R A S E B O O K 207

English–Catalan Phrase Book

In Emergency more més mess
less menys menyees
Help! Auxili! ow-gzee-lee
Stop! Pareu! pah-reh-oo Shopping
Call a doctor! Telefoneu un teh-leh-fon-eh-oo
metge! oon meh-djuh How much Quant kwahn
Call an ambulance! Telefoneu una teh-leh-fon-eh-oo does this cost? costa això? kost ehs-shoh
ambulància! oo-nah ahm- I would like … M’agradaria … muh-grad-uh-ree-ah
boo-lahn-see-ah Do you have? Tenen? tehn-un
Call the police! Telefoneu teh-leh-fon-eh-oo I’m just looking, Només estic noo-mess ehs-teek
la policia! lah poh-lee- thank you mirant, gràcies. mee-rahn
see-ah grah-see-uhs
Call the fire brigade! Telefoneu els teh-leh-fon-eh-oo Do you take Accepten ak-sehp-tuhn
bombers! uhlz boom-behs credit cards? targes de tahr-zhuhs duh
Where is the On és el on-ehs uhl tuh-leh- crèdit? kreh-deet
nearest telèfon més fon mehs What time A quina hora ah keen-uh oh-ruh
telephone? proper? proo-peh do you open? obren? oh-bruhn
Where is the On és l’hospital on-ehs looss-pee What time A quina hora ah keen-uh oh-ruh
nearest més proper? tahl mehs do you close? tanquen? tan-kuhn
hospital? proo-peh This one. Aquest ah-ket
That one. Aquell ah-kehl
Communication Essentials expensive car kahr
cheap bé de preu/ beh thuh preh-oo/
Yes Si see barat bah-rat
No No noh size (clothes) talla/mida tah-lyah/mee-thuh
Please Si us plau sees plah-oo size (shoes) número noo-mehr-oo
Thank you Gràcies grah-see-uhs white blanc blang
Excuse me Perdoni puhr-thoh-nee black negre neh-gruh
Hello Hola oh-lah red vermell vuhr-mel
Goodbye Adéu ah-they-oo yellow groc grok
Good night Bona nit bo-nah neet green verd behrt
Morning El matí uhl muh-tee blue blau blah-oo
Afternoon La tarda lah tahr-thuh antique store antiquari/botiga an-tee-kwah-ree/
Evening El vespre uhl vehs-pruh d’antiguitats boo-tee-gah/dan-
Yesterday Ahir ah-ee tee-ghee-tats
Today Avui uh-voo-ee bakery el forn uhl forn
Tomorrow Demà duh-mah bank el banc uhl bang
Here Aquí uh-kee book store la llibreria lah lyee-bruh-
There Allà uh-lyah ree-ah
What? Què? keh butcher’s la carnisseria lah kahr-nee-suh-
When? Quan? kwahn ree-uh
Why? Per què? puhr keh pastry shop la pastisseria lah pahs-tee-suh-
Where? On? ohn ree-uh
chemist’s la farmàcia lah fuhr-mah-
Useful Phrases see-ah
How are you? Com està? kom uhs-tah
fishmonger’s la peixateria lah peh-shuh-tuh-
ree-uh
Very well, Molt bé, mol beh
thank you gràcies. grah-see-uhs
greengrocer’s la fruiteria lah froo-ee-tuh-
ree-uh
Pleased to Molt de gust. mol duh goost
meet you. grocer’s la botiga de lah boo-tee-guh
See you soon. Fins aviat. feenz uhv-yat queviures duh keh-vee-oo-ruhs
That’s fine. Està bé. uhs-tah beh hairdresser’s la perruqueria lah peh-roo-kuh-
ree-uh
Where is/are …? On és/són? ohn ehs/sohn
How far is it to …? Quants metres/ kwahnz meh-
market el mercat uhl muhr-kat
kilòmetres hi ha truhs/kee-loh newsagent’s el quiosc uhl kee-ohsk
d’aquí a …? muh-truhs yah de premsa duh prem-suh
dah-kee uh post office l’oficina de loo-fee-see-nuh
Which Per on es puhr on uhs correus duh koo-reh-oos
way to …? va a …? bah ah
shoe store la sabateria lah sah-bah-tuh-
ree-uh
Do you speak Parla par-luh
English? anglès? an-glehs supermarket el supermercat uhl soo-puhr-muhr-
kat
I don’t understand No l’entenc. noh luhn-teng
Could you Pot parlar més pot par-lah mehs
tobacconist’s l’estanc luhs-tang
speak more a poc a poc, pok uh pok
travel agency l’agència de la-jen-see-uh duh
slowly, please? si us plau? sees plah-oo
viatges vee-ad-juhs
I’m sorry. Ho sento. oo sehn-too Sightseeing
Useful Words art gallery la galeria d’ art lah gah-luh ree-yuh
dart
big gran gran cathedral la catedral lah kuh-tuh-thrahl
small petit puh-teet church l’església luhz-gleh-zee-uh
hot calent kah-len la basílica lah buh-zee-lee-kuh
cold fred fred garden el jardí uhl zhahr-dee
good bo boh library la biblioteca lah bee-blee-oo-
bad dolent doo-len teh-kuh
enough bastant bahs-tan museum el museu uhl moo-seh-oo
well bé beh tourist l’oficina de loo-fee-see-nuh
open obert oo-behr information turisme thuh too-reez-muh
closed tancat tan-kat office
left esquerra uhs-kehr-ruh town hall l’ajuntament luh-djoon-tuh-men
right dreta dreh-tuh closed for tancat per tan-kat puh
straight on recte rehk-tuh holiday vacances bah-kan-suhs
near a prop uh prop bus station l’estació luhs-tah-see-oh
far lluny lyoonyuh d’autobusos dow-toh-boo-zoos
up/over a dalt uh dahl railway l’estació luhs-tah-see-oh
down/under a baix uh bah-eeshh station de tren thuh tren
early aviat uhv-yat
late tard tahrt Staying in a Hotel
entrance entrada uhn-trah-thuh
exit sortida soor-tee-thuh Do you have ¿Tenen una teh-nuhn oo-nuh
toilet lavabos/ luh-vah-boos a vacant habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh
serveis sehr-beh-ees room? lliure? lyuh-ruh
208 P H R A S E B O O K

double habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh el pa uhl pah bread

room with doble amb doh-bluh am el pastís uhl pahs-tees pie/cake
double bed llit de lyeet duh les patates lahs pah-tah-tuhs potatoes
matrimoni mah-tree-moh-nee el pebre uhl peh-bruh pepper
twin room habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh el peix uhl pehsh fish
amb dos llits/ am dohs lyeets/ el pernil uhl puhr-neel cured ham
amb llits am lyeets in-thee- salat serrà suh-lat sehr-rah
individuals vee-thoo-ahls el plàtan uhl plah-tun banana
single room habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh el pollastre uhl poo-lyah-struh chicken
individual een-dee-vee- la poma la poh-mah apple
thoo-ahl el porc uhl pohr pork
room with habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh les postres lahs pohs-truhs dessert
a bath amb bany am bahnyuh rostit rohs-teet roast
shower dutxa doo-chuh la sal lah sahl salt
porter el grum uhl groom la salsa lah sahl-suh sauce
key la clau lah klah-oo les salsitxes lahs sahl-see-chuhs sausages
I have a Tinc una ting oo-nuh sec sehk dry
reservation habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oh la sopa lah soh-puh soup
reservada reh-sehr-vah-thah el sucre uhl-soo-kruh sugar
la taronja lah tuh-rohn-djuh orange
el te uhl teh tea
Eating Out les torrades lahs too-rah-thuhs toast
Have you got a Tenen teh-nuhn la vedella lah veh-theh-lyuh beef
table for… taula per…? tow-luh puhr el vi blanc uhl bee blang white wine
I would like Voldria vool-dree-uh el vi negre uhl bee neh-gruh red wine
to reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr el vi rosat uhl bee roo-zaht rosé wine
a table una taula. oo-nuh tow-luh el vinagre uhl bee-nah-gruh vinegar
The bill El compte, uhl kohm-tuh el xai/el be uhl shahee/uhl beh lamb
please. si us plau. sees plah-oo el xerès uhl shuh-rehs sherry
I am a Sóc sok buh-zhuh-tuh- la xocolata lah shoo-koo-lah-tuh chocolate
vegetarian vegetarià/ ree-ah el xoriç uhl shoo-rees red sausage
vegetariana buh-zhuh-tuh-ree-
ah-nah
waitress cambrera kam-breh-ruh Numbers
waiter cambrer kam-breh 0 zero seh-roo
menu la carta lah kahr-tuh 1 un (masc) oon
fixed-price menú del muh-noo thuhl una (fem) oon-uh
menu dia dee-uh 2 dos (masc) dohs
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tuh thuh dues (fem) doo-uhs
vins veens 3 tres trehs
glass of water un got d’aigua oon got dah-ee- 4 quatre kwa-truh
gwah 5 cinc seeng
glass of wine una copa de vi oo-nuh ko-pah 6 sis sees
thuh vee 7 set set
bottle una ampolla oo-nuh am-pol-yuh 8 vuit voo-eet
knife un ganivet oon gun-ee-veht 9 nou noh-oo
fork una forquilla oo-nuh foor-keel- 10 deu deh-oo
yuh 11 onze on-zuh
spoon una cullera oo-nuh kool- 12 doce doh-dzuh
yeh-ruh 13 tretze treh-dzuh
breakfast l’esmorzar les-moor-sah 14 catorze kah-tohr-dzuh
lunch el dinar uhl dee-nah 15 quinze keen-zuh
dinner el sopar uhl soo-pah 16 setze set-zuh
main course el primer uhl pree-meh 17 disset dee-set
plat plat 18 divuit dee-voo-eet
starters els entrants uhlz ehn-tranz 19 dinou dee-noh-oo
dish of the day el plat del dia uhl plat duhl 20 vint been
dee-uh 21 vint-i-un been-tee-oon
coffee el cafè uhl kah-feh 22 vint-i-dos been-tee-dohs
rare poc fet pok fet 30 trenta tren-tah
medium al punt ahl poon 31 trenta-un tren-tah oon
well done molt fet mol fet 40 quaranta kwuh-ran-tuh
50 cinquanta seen-kwahn-tah
Menu Decoder (see also pp30–31 & 144–5) 60 seixanta seh-ee-shan-tah
70 setanta seh-tan-tah
l’aigua mineral lah-ee-gwuh mineral water 80 vuitanta voo-ee-tan-tah
mee-nuh-rahl 90 noranta noh-ran-tah
sense gas/amb gas sen-zuh gas/am gas still/sparkling 100 cent sen
al forn ahl forn baked 101 cent un sent oon
l’all lahlyuh garlic 102 cent dos sen dohs
l’arròs lahr-roz rice 200 dos-cents (masc) dohs-sens
les botifarres lahs boo-tee-fah-rahs sausages dues-centes (fem) doo-uhs sen-tuhs
la carn lah karn meat 300 tres-cents trehs-senz
la ceba lah seh-buh onion 400 quatre-cents kwah-truh-senz
la cervesa lah-sehr-ve-sah beer 500 cinc-cents seeng-senz
l’embotit lum-boo-teet cold meat 600 sis-cents sees-senz
el filet uhl fee-let sirloin 700 set-cents set-senz
el formatge uhl for-mah-djuh cheese 800 vuit-cents voo-eet-senz
fregit freh-zheet fried 900 nou-cents noh-oo-cenz
la fruita lah froo-ee-tah fruit 1,000 mil meel
els fruits secs uhlz froo-eets seks nuts 1,001 mil un meel oon
les gambes lahs gam-bus prawns
el gelat uhl djuh-lat ice cream
la llagosta lah lyah-gos-tah lobster Time
la llet lah lyet milk one minute un minut oon mee-noot
la llimona lah lyee-moh-nah lemon one hour una hora oo-nuh oh-ruh
la llimonada lah lyee-moh-nah- lemonade half an hour mitja hora mee-juh oh-ruh
thuh Monday dilluns dee-lyoonz
la mantega lah mahn-teh-gah butter Tuesday dimarts dee-marts
el marisc uhl muh-reesk seafood Wednesday dimecres dee-meh-kruhs
la menestra lah muh-nehs-truh vegetable stew Thursday dijous dee-zhoh-oos
l’oli loll-ee oil Friday divendres dee-ven-druhs
les olives luhs oo-lee-vuhs olives Saturday dissabte dee-sab-tuh
l’ou loh-oo egg Sunday diumenge dee-oo-men-juh