Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Barcelona & Catalonia
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Barcelona & Catalonia
BARCELONA
& CATALONIA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BARCELONA
& CATALONIA
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: ROGER WILLIAMS
CONTENTS
INTRODUCING
BARCELONA AND
CATALONIA
PROJECT EDITOR Catherine Day
ART EDITORS Carolyn Hewitson, Marisa Renzullo
EDITORS Elizabeth Atherton, Felicity Crowe
DESIGNER Suzanne Metcalfe-Megginson
MAP CO-ORDINATOR David Pugh
PICTURE RESEARCH Monica Allende
DTP DESIGNERS Samantha Borland, Lee Redmond,
Pamela Shiels
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Roger Williams
MAPS
Jane Hanson, Phil Rose, Jennifer Skelley (Lovell Jones Ltd),
Gary Bowes, Richard Toomey (ERA-Maptec Ltd)
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jaume I, “El Conquistador”,
Max Alexander, Mike Dunning, Heidi Grassley, Alan Keohane ruler of Catalonia 1213–76
ILLUSTRATORS
Stephen Conlin, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas
(Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Claire Littlejohn, FOUR GREAT DAYS IN
Maltings Partnership, John Woodcock BARCELONA 10
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in China by South China Printing Co. Ltd. PUTTING BARCELONA
First published in Great Britain in 1999 AND CATALONIA
by Dorling Kindersley Limited ON THE MAP 12
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2002,
2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 (001) A PORTRAIT OF
CATALONIA 16
Copyright 1999, 2011 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
CATALONIA THROUGH
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE
REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY THE YEAR 34
FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING,
RECORDING OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION
OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.
THE HISTORY OF
CATALONIA 40
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-1-4053-4704-4
Front cover main image: Roof terrace of Gaudí’s
Casa Batlló
TRAVEL INFORMATION
182
GENERAL INDEX
198
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The small, whitewashed town of Cadaqués on the Costa Brava 205
CATALONIA
LLEIDA, ANDORRA,
GIRONA,
BARCELONA Barcelona Cathedral,
PROVINCE, in the heart of the city’s
TARRAGONA 108 extensive and well-preserved
Gothic Quarter
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E
BARCELONA
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places no visitor should miss.
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Urquinaona. 10am–3:30pm daily;
and for concerts. Buying tickets a week
in advance online is recommended.
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Statue of Poseidon in the courtyard
of La Llotja
ing practical information is
shown on the back flap.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp999–999 and pp999–999
H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
5 5
5
Introduction to Catalonia
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110–111. The chapter explores Catalonia’s rich historical, cultur-
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp999–999 and pp999–999
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
!"+(*,$0+)-**''%
Off N240, 10 km (6 miles) from
(%,.-!23%17.&!-3!!1)!$%."+%3)2!(!5%- The dormitory)2 /",!+$&*'$-%&+!+ Montblanc. Tel 977 87 00 89.
.&31!-04)++)37!-$!1%23)-'/+!#%.&*)-'236!23(% 1%!#(%$"723!)12&1., ,"*+'&!+'*,! L’Espluga de Francolí, then
&)123!-$,.23),/.13!-3.&3(1%%)23%1#)!-,.-!2 3(%#(41#((%5!23 %'&#+,"+(. walk or taxi. 10am–
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12:45pm & 3–5:30pm daily (to
6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct). 1
Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. 8am
The Visitors’ Checklist
)-42%"73(%,.-*2
The 12th-century
refectory)2! Parlour cloister
practical information you will
5!4+3%$(!++6)3(
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Sant Esteve
cloister need to plan your visit.
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The top sights
7
Museum '$-%&+&"%(*++".
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or more full pages. Historic
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The Abbey Church
buildings are dissected to
TIMELINE
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Royal
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Royal Tombs
Cloisters
labelled to help you locate
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp999–999 and pp999–999
GAUDÍ GREATS
Morning
For many visitors, Barcelona
is synonymous with the
unique architecture of Antoni
La Rambla, an exciting avenue for a stroll at any time Gaudí. He created many
great buildings, all of which
Afternoon are worth visiting, but here
HISTORIC TREASURES After lunch, take a guided are two places to make a
tour of the Palau de la start. Begin your day with
• A stroll round the Gothic Música Catalana (see pp62–3) a visit to Gaudí’s most
quarter and museums and its dazzling Modernista colourful and eccentric
• A Modernista concert hall interior. After that, plunge house, Casa Batlló (see
• Non-stop life on Spain’s into the atmospheric Born pp76–7). Discover its
most famous street district (see pp102–3), with fantastic organic forms and
its trendy shops. Take a pay the extra fee to extend
TWO ADULTS allow at least €40 look in the Museu Picasso your tour to see the roof
(see pp64–5), then wander with its remarkable chimneys
Morning to La Rambla, a busy street and “dragon’s back”. A little
Barcelona’s preserved where there is always further up the road is the
medieval centre is the Barri plenty of activity. equally renowned Casa Milà,
Gótic (see pp54–5), a warren also known as La Pedrera
of streets where it is easy to (see p79). This can also
get lost. You can happily be visited, but if you’re short
spend the morning here of time its remarkable façade
without walking great can be admired from the
distances. The focal point is outside. For lunch, you’ll
the Cathedral (see pp58–9). find there are several
Next to it is the Palau Reial budget-priced restaurants
(Royal Palace), part of in the streets near and
which is now the Museu parallel to Passeig de Gràcia.
d’História de la Ciutat (see
pp56–7), where you can take Afternoon/Evening
a fascinating subterranean Visit Gaudí’s greatest,
stroll over the excavated unfinished work, the
ruins of Roman Barcelona. Sagrada FamÍlia (see
The palace also houses what pp80–3). Allow plenty of
is perhaps Barcelona’s most time to make sense of the
fascinating museum, the dense detail on the two
eclectic Museu Frederic façades of this extraordinary
Marès (see p56). There are church – the Passion façade
plenty of places for a budget Richly ornamental interior of and the Nativity façade –
lunch in this area. Palau de la Musica Catalana and also to explore the
El Paralelo 1930, a portrait of one of Barcelona’s main avenues in 1930 by Emili Bosch Roger (1894–1980)
F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N B A R C E L O N A 11
FAMILY FUN
Morning
Tibidabo Amusement Park
(see pp98–9), on the highest
hill behind Barcelona, is a
family day out in itself, with
getting there by tram and
funicular half the fun. But if
you don’t want to go that far,
stroll down Las Ramblas and
take the lift up the Monument
a Colom (see pp68–9) for a
Casa Batlló, a house in an alternative architectural universe good view of this part of the
city. From the nearby
vertigo-inducing fantasy taster. Start at 10am when quayside, board a Golondrina
towers (you go up by lift the Museu Nacional d’Art (see p69) for a cruise round
and return by stairs). Coming de Catalunya (see p88) opens the harbour. Then cross the
back down to reality, return on Montjuïc hill (also take wavy footbridge for the
to the Passeig de Gràcia and time to enjoy the great Maremagnum shopping cen-
browse in its stylish shops. view). Here, you’ll see tre, also the best place to
Look out for the design what is arguably the best grab a bite to eat.
emporium, Vinçon (see p155). collection of Romanesque art
in any museum. Close by is Afternoon/Evening
the city’s latest contemporary Attractions that are specifically
art gallery, CaixaForum (see for children can, if you want
p98), situated in a Modernista to extend the day, be saved
factory. Lunch in a local café. until after dark. The Aquarium
(see p68) offers several activ-
Afternoon ities for kids, as well as tanks
For a change of pace, make full of sharks and other fasci-
your way to the Monestir de nating creatures. Next to it,
Pedralbes (see p95), a lovely watch the hugely realistic
14th-century monastery with (and stomach-churning)
numerous religious objects show at the IMAX Cinema
and works of art on display. (see p164). A short walk
Back in the city centre, away is the relaxing, child-
visit the Museu d’Art friendly Museu d’Historia
Contemporani (see pp62–3), de Catalunya (see pp68–9)
where you can be sure of with exhibits on daily life
Museu d’Art Contemporani façade something surprising. in earlier times.
• Romanesque marvels on
Montjuïc hill
• Contemporary works of art
• Collection of Old Masters
Morning
The number of great
galleries you can cram into
a day depends on your
appetite and stamina but
here are four to give you a Barcelona’s Aquarium, a wonderful experience for children
12 INTRODUCING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA
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PUTTING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA ON THE MAP 13
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PORTUGAL
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14 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C ATA L O N I A
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Montjuïc KEY
There are wonderful Major sight
views from the top of
this large hill. Several Metro station
of Barcelona’s best Train station
museums are here, Bus stop
including the Archaeo-
logical Museum (see Cable car
p88) which displays Funicular
this Roman mosaic. Tramway stop
Police station
Church
0 miles 0.5
PUTTING BARCELONA AND CATALONIA ON THE MAP 15
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doorway of Casa
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Avinguda Diagonal.
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This area includes
all the oldest
districts of Barce-
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•
0 Besalú •
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• •
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Ripoll •
Empuries
• CATALONIA • Girona
Solsona • Cardona
N23
•
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0
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• •
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BARCELONA
A2 AP
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0 Sitges
15)
P7 (E
A7 A Catalonia
• Tarragona
• Salou Much of Catalonia is
mountainous, with Bar-
KEY
celona sited on a narrow
Barcelona and environs coastal plain. Sant Pere
Motorways (highways) de Galligants (see p23) is
one of many Romanesque
Other major roads
churches (left).
I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A 17
A P O R T R A I T O F C ATA L O N I A
B
arcelona is one of the great Mediterranean cities. Few places
are so redolent with history, few so boldly modern. Animated
and inspired, it is a city that sparkles as much at night-time
as in the full light of day. It is famous for its main avenue, La
Rambla, for its bars, its museums and its enthusiasm for life.
Barcelona is the capital of the auto- POLITICS AND SOCIETY
nomous region of Catalonia, the Catalonia is governed by the
most northeasterly corner of Spain, Generalitat, housed in the Palau de
bordering France. The region is la Generalitat in the heart of the
divided into four provinces, Old Town and on the site of
named after their provincial the Roman forum. The
capitals: Barcelona, Girona, region’s parliament is loc-
Lleida and Tarragona. ated in the Parc de la Ciutadella.
The city of Barcelona lies The city of Barcelona has a
between two rivers, the Llobregat separate administration, and its
and the Besòs, and is backed by town hall, the Casa de la Ciutat,
the Collserola hills which rise to faces the Generalitat across the
a 512-m (1,680-ft) peak at the Plaça de Sant Jaume. Catalonia
Tibidabo amusement park. The has developed its own police
city grew up as the industrial force, which has now taken
sweatshop of Spain, though the La dama del over from Spain’s national
shunting yards and seaside ware- paraigua police in most of Catalonia.
houses have now gone. Around four Catalans are progressive but, as in
million people live in Barcelona and many other countries, people in
its suburbs – about half the popul- rural areas are more conservative than
ation of Catalonia. It is Spain’s second those in the cities. For 23 years after
city after its old rival, Madrid. Franco’s death, the Generalitat was
Aleppo Rosemary
pine
Jerusalem sage,
an attractive
shrub which is
often grown in
gardens, has tall
stems surrounded by
bunches of showy
yellow flowers. Its
leaves are greyish-
white and woolly.
Common thyme
FOREIGN INVADERS is a low-growing
Several plants from the New World have aromatic herb
managed to colonize the bare ground of which is widely
the matollar. The prickly pear, thought to cultivated for use
have been brought back by Christopher in the kitchen.
Columbus, produces a
delicious fruit which can
Prickly pear be picked only with
in bloom thickly gloved hands. The mirror orchid, a
The rapidly growing small plant which
century plant, a native of Mexico grows on grassy sites,
which has tough, spiny leaves, sends is easily distinguished
up a tall flower shoot only when it is from other orchids by
10–15 years old, after which it dies. the brilliant metallic
blue patch inside
Flowering shoots of the century plant the lip, fringed
by brown hairs.
A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 21
The strawberry
tree is an evergreen Ladder snakes feed on
shrub with glossy small mammals, birds and
serrated leaves. insects. The young are
Its inedible identified by a black pattern
strawberry-like fruit like the rungs of a ladder,
turns red when ripe. but adults are marked with
two simple stripes.
The
Dartford
warbler , a
skulking bird
Grey-leaved cistus , which has a
growing on sunny dark plumage
sites, has crumpled and a cocked tail,
petals and bright sings melodiously
yellow anthers. during its mating display.
Males are more vividly
Narrow-leaved cistus coloured than females.
exudes a sticky aromatic
gum used in perfumes. The swallow-
tail butterfly
is one of the
most conspicuous
of the great many
insects living in
Star clover is a low-growing the matollar. Bees,
annual whose fruit develops ants and grasshoppers are
into a star-shaped seed head. also extremely common.
Its flowers are often pale pink.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
• Andorra
la Vella
Puigcerdà •
Pont de Suert • Sort
•
• La Seu d’Urgell
Berga •
Sant Pere de
Camprodon (see
p115), consecrated in
1169, is a monastery
church in mature
Romanesque style
with five square apses.
The slightly pointed BARCELONA
Ripoll
•
Olot
Girona
Vic
A dramatic cupola
covers the central salon,
which rises through three
floors. It is pierced by
small round holes,
inspired by Islamic
architecture, giving
the illusion of stars.
Upper galleriesare
richly decorated
with carved wood
and cofferwork.
Elaborate
wrought iron
lamps light the
grand hall.
Parabolic arches,
used extensively by
Gaudí, beginning in
the Palau Güell, show
his interest in Gothic
architecture. These
arches form a corridor
in his 1890 Col.legi
de les Teresianes, a
convent school in the
west of Barcelona.
Escutcheon alludes to
the Catalan coat of arms.
PALAU GÜELL
Gaudí’s first major building in the centre
of the city, on La Rambla (see p60),
established his international reputation
for outstanding, original architecture.
Built in 1889 for his life-long patron,
the industrialist Eusebi Güell, the
mansion stands on a small plot of
land in a narrow street, making the Organic forms inspired the wrought iron around the
façade difficult to see. Inside, Gaudí gates to the palace. Gaudí’s later work teems with wildlife,
creates a sense of space by using such as this dragon, covered with brightly coloured tiles,
carved screens, recesses and galleries. which guards the steps in the Park Güell.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
24
museums. Many of the other premises,
however, are privately owned houses,
shops, cafés and hotels.
Casa Vicens
This bright, angular, turreted building
by Antoni Gaudí, with ceramic mosaics
24
and patterned brickwork, shows
Moorish influence. The iron gate and
fencing are hallmarks of his work ( Diagonal
24
sculptured frieze above the first-floor
windows has close affinities to Spanish
early Renaissance Plateresque style @
KEY
MB
RA
Walking route
LA
Bus route
Metro station
0 yards 500
A P O R T R A I T O F C A T A L O N I A 27
24, 9
2 TIPS FOR WALKERS
Starting point: Palau Güell, but
plan your own order according to
time available. Look out for the
24,
24
route signs in the pavement.
92
Length: About 4 km (2.5 miles)
for the walking section 1 to @
excluding deviations to sights well
to the side of the main route.
Time: It would take several days
to explore all the sights. Discount
vouchers are valid for one year.
92
92
A
V
IN
G
U
D
A Palau Macaya
D
IA
G Finished in 1901, this elegant
O
N
A
Sagrada Família mansion with a grand courtyard
L
C
was designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch.
D’ARAG
O Several artists were employed in its
decoration. It is now an exhibition venue $
JOAN
Catalan Painting
Catalonia has a fine, if uneven, painterly tradition. It of their works can be seen at
began where Spanish medieval painting was born – the Museu Nacional d’Art de
in the Pyrenees, where Romanesque churches were Catalunya alongside Catalo-
brightened by bold frescoes full of imagination (see nia’s only two distinguished
artists of the period – Francesc
pp22-3). The subsequent Gothic period, which Pla and Antoni Viladomat.
represented Catalonia at the height of its powers, was
followed by a long period of lesser artistic achievement
until the wealth of the 19th century revived the creative
spirit. This fostered some of Europe’s great 20th-century
painters, all of whom, as Catalans, felt a close affinity to
the spirit of Catalonia’s incomparable Romanesque art.
Conill amb cargols is a Suquet de peix, a rich stew Crema Catalana, the Catalan
hearty country stew of rabbit of firm-fleshed fish (often version of crème brûlée, is a
and snails with tomatoes, hake), with tomatoes, garlic rich, eggy custard with a
spices and a splash of wine. and toasted almonds. caramelized sugar topping.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
Cava Country
Cava is one of Catalonia’s most
appreciated exports. This relatively
inexpensive sparkling wine is made
in the same way as French
champagne, undergoing a second
Cordoníu’s world-
fermentation in the bottle in which it
famous cava label is sold. It was made commercially
from the mid-19th century and, in
1872, full-scale production was begun by Josep Raventós,
head of Codorníu. This famous winery is still run by his
descendants in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, cava capital of the
Penedès wine-producing region. Today cava continues to
Codorníu, the first wine to be
be made using local grape varieties – Macabeo, Xarel.lo made using the méthode
and Parellada – and some pleasant pink cava is also champenoise, brought cava
produced. The literal meaning of cava is simply “cellar”. international renown as one
of the great sparkling wines.
P E N
N230
N2 3
40 C1
NII A2
•
Lleida
NIIa Les Borges
Blanques C O
A2 AP2 •
(E90)
e
gr
Se
T A R R A G O N A
bottle is recognized throughout the world.
Besó
Manresa
s
•
E D È S E1
5)
7(
AP
A7 2
NII A2 C3
C1
•
6(
Tàrrega
E9
• Terrassa
)
Igualada •
•
Sabadell
S T E R S D E L •
7
Masquefa AP )
S E G R E A7 (E15
BARCELONA
A2 90)
•
(E
•
Sant Sadurní
AP2
A2 AP2 (E d’Anoia
Llo
BEST PRODUCERS
bre
90
ga
Montblanc
)
• •
Codorníu
t
5)
Valls E1 •
7( C3
2
Castelldefels Freixenet
•
AP
A7
•
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 2
El Vendrell •
Vilanova Gramona
i la Geltrú Sant Sadurní d’Anoia 3
Reus Tarragona
•
• Mascaró
Vilafranca del Penedès 4
CAVA TIPS
Raïmat
What to buy
Costers del Segre 5
As with champagne, the drier the
wine, the higher the price. The Raventós Rosell
driest cavas are brut de brut and Masquefa 6
brut nature. Brut and sec are
slightly less dry. Sweet semiseco
and dulce are best with desserts. Although
inexpensive compared with the French
equivalent, costs do vary, with small, spe-
cialist producers commanding high prices.
Visiting a winery
The main cava producers are
open to the public during
office hours (but many close in
August). Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
is 45 minutes by train from Barcelona’s Sants
station and the most impressive cellars to
visit here are Freixenet’s and Codorníu’s.
Vilafranca del Penedès tourist office (see A rewarding tour can be had by visiting the
p125) has details of all cava winery visits. Freixenet cellars. The company sells more bottles
of cava each year than the French sell champagne.
34 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
MARCH
Sunshine Chart
AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Barcelona is a sunny
Hours city, enjoying clear blue
10 skies for a large part of
the year and often up
8 to ten hours’ sunshine
a day in summer. In
6
winter, even though it
4 can be cold in the
shade, the sun is high
2 enough to give it warm-
ing power and it can be
0 pleasant to sit outdoors
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec on a sheltered, sunny
terrace or patio.
SUMMER
Rainfall Chart
AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL (BARCELONA) Barcelona experiences
MM Inches modest rainfall year
150 6 round – just sufficient
to maintain the city’s
120 4.5 green spaces. However,
rain tends to fall in
90
3
sudden, but short-lived,
60
torrential downpours
and heavy thunder
1.5
30 storms are a feature of
the summer months.
0 0 Grey, drizzly weather
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec lasting for days on
end is very rare.
AUTUMN
SEPTEMBER
Cattle descending from the Pyrenees at the end of the summer
Diada de Catalunya (11 Sep).
Catalonia’s national day marks correfoc – a parade of fire- PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Barcelona’s fall to Felipe V in breathing dragons, giants and
1714 (see p45) when the region monsters; and the piro musical Any Nou (New Year’s
lost its autonomy. Political – fireworks set to music. Day) 1 Jan
demonstrations convey strong Sant Miquel (29 Sep). Cele- Reis Mags (Epiphany)
separatist sentiment. Sardana brations for Barceloneta’s 6 Jan
(see p129) bands and people patron saint recall Napoleon’s Divendres Sant (Good
singing Els segadors (see p44) occupation of Spain (see p45). Friday) Mar/Apr
can be heard and Catalan Bum Bum, a Napoleonic Dilluns de Pasqua (Easter
flags are everywhere. general, parades through the Monday) Mar/Apr
La Mercè (24 Sep). This annual streets to salvoes of gunfire. Festa del Treball (Labour
festival in Barcelona honours There is dancing on the beach. Day) 1 May
Nostra Senyora de la Mercè Sant Joan (Saint John’s
(Our Lady of Mercy) in a week OCTOBER Day) 24 Jun
of concerts, masses and Assumpció (Assumption
dances. Look out for the Festes de Sarrià i de Les Corts Day) 15 Aug
(first Sun in Oct). Each of Diada de Catalunya
these Barcelona districts has a (National Day) 11 Sep
festival for its patron saint.
La Mercè 24 Sep
Día de la Hispanitat (12 Oct)
Dia de la Hispanitat (Day
National holiday to mark the
discovery of America in 1492 of the Spanish-speaking
(see p44), but most Catalans do nations) 12 Oct
not celebrate this anniversary. Tots Sants (All Saints’
Day) 1 Nov
NOVEMBER Dia de la Constitució
(Constitution Day) 6 Dec
Tots Sants (All Saints’ Day) Immaculada Concepció
(1 Nov). Roast chestnuts and (Immaculate Conception)
sweet potatoes are eaten and 8 Dec
the next day – Dia dels difunts Nadal (Christmas) 25 Dec
Harvesting grapes in autumn with (All Souls’ Day) – people visit Sant Esteve 26 Dec
high hopes for a successful crop the graves of their relatives.
C A T A L O N I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 37
Temperature Chart
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURE (BARCELONA) This chart shows the
C° F° average minimum
30 86 and maximum daily
temperatures record-
25 77
ed in Barcelona. The
20 68 sunshine in winter
can be deceptive, as
15 59
daytime temperatures
10 50 can occasionally dip
to near freezing.
5 41
Summer days are
0 32 consistently hot. Hats
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec and a high-factor sun
screen are essential.
WINTER
T
he Catalans have always been great seafarers, merchants
and industrialists. Since they were united under the House of
Barcelona, their nationhood has been threatened by marriages,
alliances and conflicts with Madrid, and the road to their present
status as a semi-autonomous region within Spain has been marked
by times of power and wealth and troughs of weakness and despair.
Barcelona was not a natural site for In reprisal, the Romans arrived at
human settlement. Its port was neg- Empúries and began the subjugation
ligible and its heights, Montjuïc, had of the whole Iberian peninsula. They
no water. The oldest evidence of man wiped out the Carthaginians as well as
in Catalonia comes the Laeitani and
rather from other sites established Tarraco
scattered across the (Tarragona, see p128) in
region, notably the dol- the south of Catalonia
mens of the Alt (high) as the imperial capital
Empordà and passage of Tarraconensis, one of
graves of the Baix (low) the three administrative
Empordà and Alt Urgell. regions of the peninsula.
In the first millennium Roman Barcelona can
BC the lands around be seen in the city gate
Barcelona were settled beside the cathedral,
by the agrarian Laeita- while the 3rd-century
Roman mosaic floor excavated in
ni, while other parts of Barcelona depicting the Three Graces
walls that once en-
Catalonia were simul- circled the town lie by
taneously colonized by the Iberians. the medieval Royal Palace (see p56).
The latter were great builders in stone Foundations of the Roman city have
and remains of one of their been excavated in the basement of
settlements are still visible at Ullastret the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (see
on the Costa Brava. Greek traders p56-7), and pillars from the Temple
arrived on the coast around 550 BC, of Augustus can be glimpsed inside
founding their first trading post at the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya
Empúries (Emporion, see p120) near (see p55) behind the cathedral.
Ullastret. It was the Carthaginians When the Roman Empire collapsed,
from New Carthage in southern Spain Visigoths based in Toulouse moved
who put Barcelona on the map. They in to fill the vacuum. They had been
named the city after Hamil Barca, vassals of Rome, practised Roman
father of Hannibal who led his army law, spoke a similar language and in
of elephants from Catalonia over the 587 their Aryan king, Reccared,
Pyrenees and Alps to attack Rome. converted to the Christianity of Rome.
TIMELINE
500–200 BC Fortified Iberian settlements 550 BC Greeks establish
at Ullastret. Cyclopean walls of Tarragona trading settlement at
Empúries
1000–500 BC Indo-Europeans invade Ter and
Llobregat valleys; Iberians settle Montjuïc Visigothic Cross
2500 BC 1500 BC 500 BC AD 500
Troops fraternizing with local militia in the Baixada de la Llibreteria, Barcelona, during the 1833–9 Carlist War
42 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
TIMELINE
801 Moors ejected. Charlemagne 1060 Constitution,
717 Catalonia sets up buffer state Usatges, is drawn up
occupied by around the time that the
Muslims Charlemagne word Catalan is first
(742–814) recorded
1137 Barcelona 1258–72 Consolat de Mar, 1282 Pere el Gran 1347–8 Black death kills a
united to a code of trading practice, takes Sicily. His quarter of the population
neighbouring holds sway throughout exploits are
Aragon by the Mediterranean recorded in 1359 Generalitat 1423 Conquest
royal marriage Desclot’s Chronicles founded of Naples
1100 1200 1300 1400
1148 Frontier 1213–35 Jaume I 1324 Sardinia captured
with Moors (The Conqueror)
pushed back takes Mallorca, Ibiza 1302–5 Catalan mercenaries under Admiral Roger
to Riu Ebre and Formentera de Flor aid Byzantium against the Turks
1287 Conquest of Mallorca under Alfons III
Jaume I (1213–76)
44 I N T R O D U C I N G B A R C E L O N A A N D C A T A L O N I A
The great siege of Barcelona in 1714 during the War of the Spanish Succession
TIMELINE
1492 Columbus 1494 Supreme The Spanish Inquisition, 1619 1659 Treaty of the
discovers Americas. Council of Spanish Pyrenees at end of Thirty
Barcelona barred from Aragon brings active from 1478 capital Years War draws new
trade with the New Catalonia under established border with France;
World. Jews expelled Castilian control in Madrid Roussillon ceded to France
1450 1500 1550 1600 1650
1479 Fernando II 1490 Tirant lo 1571 Vast fleet 1640 Revolt of the
of Catalonia- Blanc, epic tale sets sail from harvesters (segadors)
Aragon marries of chivalry by Barcelona to against Spanish
Isabel of Castile, Martorell (see defeat the exploitation of Catalan
uniting all the p43), published Ottomans at resources during Thirty
houses of Spain in Catalan sea at Lepanto Years War with France
T H E H I S T O R Y O F C A T A L O N I A 45
TIMELINE
1872–6 1888 Universal Exhibition 1909 Setmana Primo de Rivera 1931 Francesc
Third and last held in Parc de la Ciutadella, tràgica: violent (1870–1930) Macià declares
Carlist War showing off the new protest against independence
Modernista style Moroccan Wars for Catalonia
Refugees on the march in 1939, fleeing towards the Pyrenees to seek asylum in France
Finally, on 16 July 1936, General and the monarchy, under the Bourbon
Francisco Franco led an army revolt Juan Carlos, were restored. Catalonia
against the Republican government has since won a large degree of
and the fledgling autonomous states. autonomy, including tax-raising
The government fled Madrid to powers and in June 2006 a new
Valencia, then Barcelona. City and Statute of Autonomy of Catalonia
coast were bombed by German air- was approved, giving Catalonians a
craft, and shelled by Italian warships. new legal framework for greater
When Barcelona fell three years later, political independence.
thousands escaped to camps in France Pasqual Maragall, Barcelona’s mayor
and thousands, including Companys, until 1997 and president of Catalonia
were executed in Franco’s reprisals. from 2003 to 2006, steered the radical
Catalonia lost all it had gained, and its shake-up of the city for the 1992
language was outlawed once more. Olympic Games. Barcelona changed
The noche negra, the dark night that dramatically, with a bold new water-
followed Franco’s victory, left Barce- front, inspired urban spaces, new
lona short of resources and largely access roads, and state-of-the-art
neglected by Madrid. The 1960s, museums and galleries.
however, brought new economic
opportunities, and between 1960
and 1975 two million Spaniards
came to work in the city. The arrival
of the first tourists to the coast
during that time, to the Costa Brava
and Costa Daurada, changed the
face of Spain for ever.
1947 Spain declared a monarchy 1975 Franco dies. King Juan 2008 High Speed AVE
with Franco as regent Carlos restores Bourbon line train line between
1992 Barcelona and
1953 US bases welcomed 1979 Partial autonomy Olympic Games Madrid inaugurated
granted to Catalonia held in Barcelona
1950 1975 2000 2025
1960s Costa Brava 1985 Medes Islands 2004 Universal
leads package become Spain’s first Forum of Cultures
1939 50,000 go into holiday boom marine nature reserve held in Barcelona
exile in France.
Catalan President 1986 Spain enters Cobi, the Olympic
Companys executed European Union mascot
BARCELONA
AND CATALONIA
Introducing Barcelona
Barcelona, one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports,
is more than the capital of Catalonia. In culture,
commerce and sports it not only rivals Madrid, but
also considers itself on a par with the greatest Euro-
pean cities. The success of the 1992 Olympic Games,
staged in the Parc de Montjuïc, confirmed this to the
world. Although there are plenty of historical monu-
ments in the Ciutat Vella (Old Town), Barcelona is best
known for the scores of buildings in the Eixample left
by the artistic explosion of Modernisme (see pp24–5)
in the decades around 1900. Always open to outside
influences because of its location on the coast, not
too far from the French border, Barcelona continues
to sizzle with creativity: its bars and the public parks
speak more of bold contemporary
design than of tradition.
Casa Milà (see p79) is the most
avant-garde of all the works of
Antoni Gaudí (see p78).
Barcelona has more Art
Nouveau buildings than any
other city in the world.
Christopher Columbus
surveys the waterfront
from the top of a 60-m
(200-ft) column (see p69)
in the heart of the Port
Vell (Old Port). From the
top, visitors can look
out over the new
promenades and
quays that have
Montjuïc Castle (see p89) is a massive fortification revitalized the area.
dating from the 17th century. Sited on the crest of the hill
of Montjuïc, it offers panoramic views of the city and 0 kilometres 1
port, and forms a sharp contrast to the ultra-modern
sports halls built nearby for the 1992 Olympic Games. 0 miles 0.5
La Rambla de Mar crossing the water in the Old Port to the Maremàgnum leisure complex
B A R C E L O N A A T A G L A N C E 51
OLD TOWN
(see pp52–69)
OLD TOWN
T he old town, traversed by the
city’s most famous avenue, La
Rambla, is one of the most ex -
tensive medieval city centres in Europe.
The Barri Gòtic contains the cathedral
replete with 14th-century mansions.
This area is bounded by the leafy Parc
de la Ciutadella, home to the city’s zoo.
The revitalized seafront is a stimulating
mix of old and new. Trendy shops and
and a maze of streets and squares. restaurants make up the fashionable
Across from the Via Laietana, the El marina, contrasted with the old mar-
Born neighbourhood is dominated by itime neighbourhood of Barceloneta
the Santa Maria del Mar church and is and the new Olympic port.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries Streets and Districts Monuments
Aquarium f Barceloneta s Arc del Triomf y
Museu d’Art Contemporani 0 La Rambla 7 Monument a Colom h
Museu d’Historia de Catalunya g El Raval 9
Museu de Ciències Naturals Churches
GETTING THERE
(Edifici Geologia) o Basílica de Santa Maria
The area is well served by
Museu de Ciències Naturals del Mar r Metro lines 1, 3 and 4; Jaume I
(Edifici Zoología) i Cathedral (pp58–9) 6 station is in the heart of the
Museu Frederic Marès 2 Barri Gòtic. Many buses pass
Historic Buildings
Museu Marítim and Drassanes k through the Plaça de Catalunya
Casa de l’Ardiaca 1
Museu Picasso e on the edge of the Barri Gòtic.
Casa de la Ciutat 4
Museu de la Xocolata t
La Llotja w
Parks and Gardens
Palau de la Generalitat 5
Parc de la Ciutadella u
Palau de la Música Catalana q
Parc Zoològic p
Palau Güell 8
Harbour Sights Museu d’Història de
Golondrinas j la Ciutat – Plaça del Rei 3
Port Olímpic a 6OJWFSTJUBU
Port Vell d
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Els Quatre Gats café in one of the narrow streets of Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic
54 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
(((")
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LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder map 5
Saló del Tinell
. Palau Reial
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STAR SIGHTS
. Cathedral
0 metres 100
. Palau Reial
0 yards 100
56 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Museu d’Història
de la Ciutat – Plaça
del Rei 3
Plaça del Rei. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 256 21
00. Jaume I. # Apr–Sep: 10am–
8pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–2pm,
4–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm Sun. ¢
1 Jan, 1 May, 24 Jun, 25 Dec. & free
1st Sat afternoon of the month. 8
by appt. www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
The magnificent council chamber, the Saló de Cent, in the Casa de la Ciutat
58 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Barcelona Cathedral 6
Nave Interior
The Catalan-style Gothic
interior has a single wide
nave with 28 side chapels.
These are set between the
columns supporting the
vaulted ceiling, which
rises to 26 m (85 ft).
. Choir Stalls
The top tier of the beautifully
carved 15th-century stalls
contains painted coats of
arms (1518) of several
European kings.
. Crypt
In the crypt, beneath
the main altar, is the
alabaster sarcophagus
(1339) of St Eulàlia,
martyred for her beliefs
by the Romans during
the 4th century AD.
. Cloisters
The fountain, set in a corner
of the Gothic cloisters and
decorated with a statue
of St George,
provided
fresh
water.
TIMELINE
559 Basilica dedicated to 1339 St Eulàlia’s relics 1913 Central spire
St Eulàlia and Holy Cross transferred to alabaster completed
sarcophagus
877 St Eulàlia’s remains 1046–58 Romanesque 1889 Main façade completed,
brought here from cathedral built under based on plans dating from 1408
Santa Maria del Mar Ramon Berenguer I by architect Charles Galters
La Rambla 7
L’ A RC
C. D E AT RE
D EL TE
DE
LA
Palau Güell 9
MB
This Neo-Gothic
RA
palace, completed in
1889, is considered Drassanes
to be one of Gaudí’s
T
SAN
CA
RR
PLAÇA DE
Catalunya Font de Canaletes 1
ER
CATALUNYA
This 19th-century fountain has
D
EL
DE
S
PLAÇA four taps from which to drink.
ES
TA
VICENÇ
LA
Saying that someone “drinks the
LL
MARTORELL
LET
ER
MB
waters of Canaletes” indicates he
NA
RA
PLAÇA DEL
BONSUCCES
or she is from Barcelona.
CA
A
CARR
C.
ER
D
E
LA
Reial Acadèmia de
Ciències i Arts 2
DE
CA
D’EN
N
U
DA Converted to a theatre
S
LA
UN Y PLAÇA DE LA
MB
VILA DE
is the home of Barcelona’s
TU
XUCL
MADRID
first official public clock.
RA
ES
A
Palau Moja 3
C. D
This Classical building dates
E P
O R TA back to 1790. The Baroque
FER
RIS
SA first-floor salon of Palau Moja
is used for exhibitions.
ROCA
XOL
DE
EP
CARRER DE PETRIT
JOS
D’EN
BLA
Palau de la
Virreina 4
RAM
ER U QU
LA
R R PA ER
NA
CA NT IA
C. ARO
SA
C. QU IN TA
Plaça de la Boqueria 6
This square features a
colourful mosaic pavement
CARRER DE FERRAN by Joan Miró (1976) and a
C. DE LA Modernista dragon designed
UNIO
for a former umbrella shop.
S
DEL
INS
UTX
BLA
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Plaça Reial 8
Barcelona’s liveliest square was KEY
A
Metro station
by Gaudí.
Parking
Museu de Cera 0
Church
MONUMENT
This waxwork museum is housed in an
A
A COLOM PLAÇA
DEL PORTAL
atmospheric, 19th-century stately home. 0 metres 100
DE LA PAU The museum was established in 1973
and contains over 300 exhibits. 0 yards 100
62 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
La Llotja w
Carrer del Consolat de Mar 2. Map
5 B3. Tel 93 319 24 12 or 90 244 84
48. Barceloneta. ¢ closed to
public (except twice a year, days vary).
The west front has a 15th- Arc del Triomf y 1720 following a 13-month
century rose window of the siege of the city (see p45). The
Coronation of the Virgin. Passeig Lluís Companys. Map 5 C1. fortress was intended to house
More stained glass, dating Arc de Triomf. soldiers to keep law and order,
from the 15th to the 18th but was never used for this
centuries, lights the wide nave The main gateway to the 1888 purpose. Converted into a pri-
and high aisles. Universal Exhibition, which son, the citadel became noto-
When the choir and furnish- filled the Parc de la Ciutadella, rious during the Napoleonic
ings were burned in the Civil was designed by Josep Vilaseca occupation (see p45), and,
War (see p46), it added to the i Casanovas. It is built of brick during the 19th-century liberal
sense of space and simplicity. in Mudéjar (Spanish Moorish) repressions, it was hated as a
style, with sculpted allegories symbol of centralized power.
of crafts, industry and business. In 1878, under General Prim,
Museu de la The frieze by Josep Reynés on whose statue stands in the
Xocolata t the main façade represents the middle of the park, the citadel
city welcoming foreign visitors. was pulled down and the park
Comerç 36. Map 5 C2. Tel 93 268 given to the city, to become,
78 78. Jaume I, Arc de Triomf. # The pink brick façade of the late in 1888, the venue of the
10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun 19th-century Arc del Triomf Universal Exhibition (see p46).
& pub hols. ¢ 1 Jan,1 May, 25 & 26 Three buildings survived: the
Dec. & 7 8 by appointment. - Governor’s Palace, now a
www.museudelaxocolata.com school; the chapel; and
the arsenal, which continues
Founded by Barcelona’s to be occupied by the
chocolate and pastry-makers Catalan parliament.
union, this museum takes you The park offers more
through the history of one of cultural and leisure activities
the most universally-loved than any other in the city and
foodstuffs: from the discovery is particularly popular on
of cocoa in South America Sunday afternoons when
to the invention of the people gather to play instru-
first chocolate machine in ments, dance and relax, or
Barcelona. This is done using visit the museums and zoo.
old posters, photographs and Parc de la A variety of works by Catalan
footage. The real thing is sculptors such as Marès,
displayed in a homage to the Ciutadella u Arnau, Carbonell, Clarà,
art of the mona. A Catalan Llimona, Gargallo, Dunyach
Avda del Marquès de l’Argentera.
invention, this was a tradition- and Fuxà, can be seen in
Map 6 D2. Barceloneta, Ciutadella-
al easter cake that over the the park, alongside work
Vila Olímpica. # Oct–Mar: 8am–6pm
centuries evolved into an by modern artists such as
daily; Apr–Sep: 8am–8pm daily. 7
edible sculpture. Every year, Tàpies and Botero.
pastissiers compete for the This popular park has a boat- The gardens in the Plaça
most imaginative piece, deco- ing lake, orange groves and de Armes boast a triumphal
rating their chocolate versions parrots living in the palm trees. arch designed by architect
of well-known buildings or It was once the site of a mas- Josep Fontseré, with the
folk figures with jewels, feath- sive star-shaped citadel, built help of Antoni Gaudí, then
ers and other materials. for Felipe V between 1715 and still a young student.
Ornamental cascade in the Parc de la Ciutadella designed by Josep Fontseré and Antoni Gaudí
66 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Museu de Ciències
Naturals (Edifici
Zoología) i
Passeig de Picasso. Map 5 C2.
Tel 93 319 69 12. Arc de
Triomf or Jaume I. # 10am–6pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun.
& Free first Sun of month. 7
8 by appointment.
EIXAMPLE
TRAVESSERA DE GRACIA
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E
Tourist information
Catalunya
Nativity façade of the Sagrada Família – the only façade to be more or less completed in Gaudí’s lifetime
72 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Passeig de Gràcia,
the Eixample’s main
avenue, is a show-
+$/
case of highly
original buildings
*"
lamps are by
Pere Falqués
(1850–1916).
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Fundació Tàpies
Topped by Antoni
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Tàpies’ wire
sculpture Cloud
and Chair, this
)
1879 building by
Domènech i Mon-
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Casa Amatller
. Illa de la
Discòrdia
In this city block, three
of Barcelona’s most
famous Modernista houses
vie for attention. All were To Plaça de
created between 1900 and Catalunya Casa
1910. This ornate tower Batlló
graces the Casa Lleó Morera Casa Lleó Morera Passeig de
by Domènech i Montaner 2 Gràcia Metro
E I X A M P L E 73
Palau Baró de
Quadras was designed
by Puig i Cadafalch in
1904 in a neo-Gothic EIXAMPLE
style. The ornate façade
is riddled with grotesque
sculptures including
this one, which adorns
the doorway.
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Gaudí put all his architectural daring into this, his
most famous house. The result is a remarkable
64E wave-like façade and a roofscape of chimneys
E8E Palau Ramon
7ġ
4E4
: de Montaner and vents resembling abstract sculptures 4
0 metres 100
STAR SIGHTS
0 yards 100
. Illa de la Discòrdia
KEY
Suggested route
. Casa Milà
76 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Casa Batlló 1
Extraordinary
chimneys, usually the
unseen and functional
parts of a building,
have become Gaudí’s
trademark. These fine
examples are tightly-
packed and covered
in abstract patterns.
Attics
The closely-packed
brick arches support-
ing the roof are plas-
tered and painted
white giving the
sensation of being
inside the skeleton Stairs to
of a large animal. main floor
Dining Room
The bulbous forms in
STAR SIGHTS the ceiling of the Battló
family’s dining room
. The Chimneys are thought to represent
the splash caused by a
. The Dragon’s Back drop of water.
. Main Drawing Room
Casa Milà
E I X A M P L E 77
Dragon’s
belly
room
Façade
Salvador Dalí saw the
The iron
curving walls and windows
balconies
have been
as “representing waves on a
likened to stormy day”. The spindly,in-
masks in dividually shaped columns
carnival across the first floor windows
processions. were also compared to tibias,
Trencadis earning Casa Batlló the nick-
decorations name, “House of Bones”.
Fundació Antoni
Tàpies 3
Carrer d’Aragó 255. Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 487 03 15. Passeig de
Gràcia. # 10am–8pm Tue–Sun &
public hols. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26
Dec. & (free to under 16s). 8 by
appointment (93 207 58 62). 7
www.fundaciotapies.org
Hospital de la
Santa Creu i de
Sant Pau 6
Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret
167, 08025 Barcelona. Map 4 F1.
Tel 93 177 652. Hospital de Sant
Pau. Grounds # 10am–2pm daily.
7 8 daily at 10:15am and
12:15pm in English, call to arrange
The rippled façade of Gaudí’s apartment building, Casa Milà any other time. www.santpau.es
Sagrada Família 7
. Nativity Façade
Tower The most complete part of Gaudí’s
with lift
church, finished in 1930, has
doorways which represent Faith,
Hope and Charity. Scenes of the
Nativity and Christ’s childhood are
embellished with symbolism, such as
doves representing the congregation.
. Crypt
The crypt, where Gaudí is buried,
was begun by the original architect,
Francesc de Paula Villar i Lozano,
in 1882. This is where services are
held. On the lower floor a museum
traces the careers of both architects
and the church’s history.
Nave
In the nave, which is still under
construction, a forest of fluted
pillars will support four galleries
above the side aisles, while
skylights let in natural light.
STAR FEATURES
. Passion Façade
. Nativity Façade
. Crypt
82 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Passion Façade
It has been said that the Sagrada Família
is like a book in stone: meant to be read
in the same way as a medieval cathedral,
with each element representing a Biblical
event or aspect of Christian faith. This was
certainly Gaudí’s intent: his architecture was
Gargoyle on
inseparable from the profound Catholicism
Sagrada Família
which inspired it. The temple is dedicated Detail on brass door of the
to the Sagrada Família, the Holy Family. Passion façade
The two existing façades are detailed, visual accounts
of two key Bible passages. The Glory façade (yet to be top of a flight of three steps
built) will address the theme of judgement of sinners. representing the three days
of the Passion. Peter denying
Christ is indicated by the cock
that will crow 3 times in
fulfilment of Jesus’ prophecy.
Behind this group of figures
is a labyrinth, a metaphor for
the loneliness of Jesus’ path to
the cross.
The sculptural group on
the bottom right is in two
parts. First is Ecce Homo
(Christ bound with ropes and
crowned with thorns). Pilate,
overlooked by the Roman
eagle, is shown washing his
hands, freeing himself of
responsibility for Jesus’ death.
Above, the “Three Marys”
weep as Simon the Cyrene, a
passer-by, is compelled by
the Romans to pick up
Main entrance to the Passion façade Christ’s cross.
Christ’s Passion ear that Peter cut off. The kiss The Holy Shroud
The Passion façade depicts of betrayal by Judas follows. The central sculpture depicts
the sufferings and execution The numbers of the crypto- an event not described in the
of Jesus, and its style reflects gram to the side of Jesus add Bible but added to the story of
its subject matter. The statuary up to 33 in every direction: his the Passion by later tradition. A
by Catalan sculptor Josep Maria age at the time of his death. woman named Veronica holds
Subirachs has attracted much up her head cloth which she
criticism for its chunky, angular, The Flagellation has offered to Jesus to wipe
“dehumanised” carving but In the flagellation (between the blood and sweat from his
Gaudí would probably have the central doors) Jesus is face. It has been returned
approved. He is known to shown tied to a column at the impressed with his likeness.
have favoured an Expressionist Next comes the solitary
style to give the story of Christ’s figure of the Roman centurion
Passion maximum impact. on horseback piercing the side
A great porch whose roof of Jesus with his sword. Above
is held up by six inclined him, three soldiers beneath the
buttress-like swamp tree roots cross cast lots for Jesus’ tunic.
shades the 12 groups of The largest sculpture (top
sculptures, arranged in three centre) shows Christ hanging
tiers and to be viewed from from a horizontal cross. At
bottom to top, left to right in his feet is a skull referring to
an inverted “S”. The first scene, the place of the Crucifixion,
bottom left-hand corner, is the Golgotha. Above him is
Last Supper at which Jesus the veil of the Temple of
(standing) announces his Jerusalem. The final scene
impending betrayal. Next to is the burial of Jesus. The
this is the arrest in the Garden figure of Nicodemus, who
of Gethsemane. An olive is anointing the body, is
trunk’s grain mimics the shape Knights sculpture on the thought to be a self-portrait
of the high priest’s servant’s Passion façade of the sculptor Subirachs.
E I X A M P L E 83
Nativity Façade
The northern, Nativity façade (overlooking Carrer Marina),
finished according to Gaudí’s personal instructions
before his death, is far more subdued than the Passion
façade. So much so that many of the sculptures barely
rise out of the surface of the wall, making them difficult
to identify. A great many natural forms are incorporated
into the work, confusing interpretation further. Gaudí
intended the whole work to be coloured but his wishes
are unlikely ever to be carried out.
MONTJUÏC
T he hill of Montjuïc, rising to
213 m (699 ft) above the com-
mercial port on the south side
of the city, is Barcelona’s biggest
recreation area. Its museums, art
The hill finally came into its own as
the site of the 1929 International Fair.
With great energy and flair, buildings
were erected all over the north side,
with the grand Avinguda de la Reina
galleries, gardens and nightclubs Maria Cristina, lined with huge
make it a popular place in the exhibition halls, leading into it
evenings as well as during the day. from the Plaça d’Espanya. In the
There was probably a Celt- middle of the avenue is the Font
Iberian settlement here before the Màgica (Magic Fountain), which is
Romans built a temple to Jupiter on regularly illuminated in colour.
their Mons Jovis, which may have Above it is the Palau Nacional,
given Montjuïc its name – though home of the city’s historic art collec-
another theory suggests that a tions. The Poble Espanyol is a crafts
Jewish cemetery on the hill inspired centre housed in copies of buildings
the name Mount of the Jews. from all over Spain. The last great
The absence of a water supply surge of building on Montjuïc was
meant that there were few build- for the 1992 Olympic Games, which
ings on Montjuïc until the castle Statue, gardens of left Barcelona with interna-
was erected on the top in 1640. the Palau Nacional tional-class sports facilities.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings Museums and Galleries
Castell de Montjuïc 7 Fundació Joan Miró 1
Museu Arqueològic 2
Modern Architecture
Museu Nacional d’Art de
Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc 8
Catalunya 3
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe 4
Squares
Plaça d’Espanya 6
A
Espanya
TIN
Theme Parks
ARIA E LA
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Poble Espanyol 5
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GETTING THERE
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near Espanya Metro station,
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reaching Montjuïc’s attractions
.L
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from Metro Paral.lel, then the
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PLAÇA
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cable car (10am–6pm daily in
UE
PA S S EI G SE
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EV
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winter, to 7pm in spring
ILA
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PLAÇA DE
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L Street-by-Street map pp86-7
CA T O
L I
D E
L Metro station
C A MI DEL FA R
D A
R O N Cable car station
Funicular station
0 metres 500 Main bus stop
Changing colours of the Font Màgica (Magic Fountain) on the grand avenue leading up to Montjuïc
86 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Street-by-Street: Montjuïc
Montjuïc is a spectacular vantage point Pavelló Mies van
from which to view the city. It has der Rohe
a wealth of art galleries and museums, as This elegant statue
well as theatres. Many of the buildings were by Georg Kolbe
designed for the 1929 International Exhibition, stands serenely in
and the 1992 Olympics were held on its the steel, glass, stone
southern slopes. Montjuïc is approached from and onyx pavilion
the Plaça d’Espanya between brick pillars built in the Bauhaus
based on the campanile of St Mark’s in style as the German
Venice. They give a foretaste of the contribution to the
eclecticism of building styles 1929 International
from the Palau Nacional, Exhibition 4
which houses magnificent
Romanesque art, to the A
VI
Poble Espanyol, which S
LA
N
OM
DA
of Spain’s regions. D C
EL E
MARQUÈS D
AVIN
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DELS
MON
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PASSE
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ASC ADE
. Poble
Espanyol
Containing
replicas of build-
ings from many
regions of Spain, this
“village” provides a
A
V
fascinating glimpse of
IN
GU
vernacular styles 5
DA
DE
L
ES
A
T
D
. Museu Nacional I
d’Art de Catalunya To Montjuïc castle and
On show in the Palau Olympic stadium
Nacional (National
Palace), the main
building of the 1929 STAR SIGHTS
International Exhi- . Museu Nacional d’Art
bition, is Europe’s de Catalunya
finest collection of
Romanesque frescoes. . Poble Espanyol
These were a great
source of inspiration . Fundació Joan Miró
for Joan Miró 3
M O N T J U I C 87
Museu Arqueològic
The museum displays
To Plaça d’Espanya important finds from
prehistoric cultures in
(+) Catalonia and the Balearic
*
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* Islands. The Dama
Museu Etnològic d’Evissa, a 4th-century
displays artifacts sculpture, was found in
from Oceania,
$
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Africa, Asia and
necropolis 2
Latin America.
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To Montjuïc castle
and cable car
KEY
0 metres 100
Suggested route
0 yards 100
88 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Museu Nacional
d’Art de
Catalunya 3
Parc de Montjuïc, Palau Nacional.
Map 1 A2. Tel 93 622 03 76.
Espanya. @ PM, 55. # 10am–7pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun & public
hols. ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
(free 1st Sun of month). ^ 7 8 by
appointment (93 622 03 75). Audio
guides available. www.mnac.cat
Minor road
Modern Buildings Theme Parks
Torre de Collserola 6 Tibidabo 8
SIGHTS
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The Neo-Gothic Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor dominating the summit of Tibidabo
94 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
Parc de l’Espanya
Industrial 2
Plaça de Joan Peiró. Sants-Estació.
This modern park, designed
by the Basque architect Luis
Peña Ganchegui, owes its
name to the textile mill that
used to stand on the 5-hectare
(12-acre) site.
Laid out in 1986 as part of
Barcelona’s policy to provide
more open spaces within the
city, the park has canals and a
rowing lake – with a Classical
statue of Neptune at its centre.
Tiers of steps rise around the
lake like an amphitheatre and Line of watchtowers in the Parc de
on one side a row of ten futur- l’Espanya Industrial
istic watchtowers dominates the
entire area. Their only function The stadium is a magnificent,
is to serve as public viewing sweeping structure, built in 1957
Dona i Ocell (1983) by Joan Miró in platforms and lamp standards. to a design by Francesc Mijans.
the Parc de Joan Miró Six contemporary sculptors An extension was added in
are represented in the park, 1982 and it can now comfort-
Parc de Joan Miró 1 among them Andrés Nagel, ably seat 100,000 fans.
whose enormous metal dragon The club’s popular museum
Carrer d’Aragó 1. Tarragona. incorporates a children’s slide. displays club memorabilia and
trophies, and has a souvenir
Barcelona’s 19th-century shop. There are also paintings
slaughterhouse (escorxador)
Museu del Fútbol and sculptures of famous club
was transformed in the 1980s Club Barcelona 3 footballers commissioned for
into this unusual park, hence the Blaugrana Biennial, an
its alternative name, Parc de Avda de Arístides Maillol (7, 9). exhibition held in celebration
l’Escorxador. Tel 90 218 99 00. Maria Cristina, of the club in 1985 and 1987,
It is constructed on two levels; Collblanc. # 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat and others donated by Catalan
the lower is devoted to football (to 8pm Apr–early Oct), 10am–2:30pm artists. Blau-grana (blue-bur-
pitches interspersed with land- Sun & public hols. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 gundy) are the colours of
scaped areas of palms, pines, Dec. & 7 8 of the stadium only Barça’s strip. The club’s flags
eucalyptus trees and flowers; (no tours on Champions League were used as an expression of
the upper level is completely match days and museum closes at local nationalist feelings when
paved and dominated by a 3pm). www.fcbarcelona.com the Catalan flag was banned
magnificent 1983 sculpture by during the Franco dictatorship.
the Catalan artist Joan Miró Camp Nou, Europe’s largest As well as hosting its own
(see p29) entitled Dona i Ocell football stadium, is home to the high-profile matches (mainly
(Woman and Bird). Standing city’s famous football club, Bar- at weekends), Camp Nou also
22 m (72 ft) high, its surface is celona FC (known as Barça). accommodates affiliated local
covered with colourful glazed Founded in 1899, it is one of soccer clubs and promotes
tiles. The park has several play the world’s richest soccer clubs, other sports in its sports centre,
areas for children. with some 100,000 members. ice rink and mini-stadium.
View across Camp Nou stadium, prestigious home of the Fútbol Club Barcelona
F U R T H E R A F I E L D 95
Park Güell 7
Entrance
. Double Staircase
Water trickles from the mouth of the park’s
emblematic multicoloured dragon that
presides over this monumental flight of
steps. Above is an ornamental brown tripod
and below another fountain, this time the
head of a snake.
. Entrance Pavilions
The two fairy-tale like gatehouses
have oval ground plans and intri-
cately tiled trencadis exteriors. Inside
are irregular rooms, odd shaped
windows and narrow staircases.
F U R T H E R A F I E L D 97
Upper Viaduct
This is one of three
viaducts that carry
snaking pathways
on the east side
of the park.
0 yards 40
CHOOSING A WALK
Gracia
(pp104–5)
&JYBNQMF
Poblenou
(pp106–7)
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*4 7&
end of the street you have no famous old shop selling 8, the city’s best
choice but to turn sharp left coffee roasted on the premises, known bar for cava
--4
into Carrer de la Carassa to nuts and dried fruit. When (Catalan sparkling
meet Carrer de Barra de you can go no further, turn wine) and tapas. I
Much of the
TIPS FOR WALKERS right-hand
side of
Starting point: Plaça de l’Angel Montcada is
Length: 1.5 km (1 mile) taken up by five
Getting there: Go to Jaume I palaces including
metro station in the Plaça de the Museu Picasso
l’Angel on Line 4. 9 (see pp64).
Stopping off points: There are Opposite this are
many bars and eateries along the two more museums.
route including the Café del Born The first you come
(Plaça Comercial) and Origens to at 14 is the
99,9% (Carrer Vidrieria 6–8), a Museu Barbier-
Catalan restaurant and shop. Mueller 0, in the
You’ll find lots on Carrer de la Palau Nadal. This
Argenteria, notably Xocolateria collection of pre-
Xador (for hot chocolate; 61–3), Columbian
and Taller de Tapas (51). sculptures, fabrics,
Visitors flocking to the popular Museu Picasso 9 ceramics and ritual
T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 103
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CARRER
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the famous Passeig de Gràcia Domènech i Montaner, Casa
GRACIA
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180 yards
you come to Casa Bonaventura to non-residents. PLAÇA
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building by Pere Falqués I The squares of Gràcia
CARRER
the road narrows to go round you can see the handsome CAR RER DE
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another Modernista building stained-glass miradores
R
PLAÇA DE
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above La Colmena patisseria G O YA DE GRÀCIA
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Gràcia’s most agreeable work shows off with extrava-
DE OLANO
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squares, the Plaça Virreina 8, gant loops and intriguing
TEROL
where the church of Sant beasts. Now retrace your
7 PLAÇA
PLAÇA
DEL
DEL SOL
Joan faces downhill towards steps to Gran de Gràcia. If
6
REVOLUCIO
DE SETEMBRE
DE 1858 two fine buildings: one is a you are in the mood for more
C DELS XIQUETS
NO
C DE RAM ON
residence with a tower and Gaudí, go uphill to Plaça
CARRER
DE VALLS
Y CAJA L
CA RRE R CA
Metro station
headquarters. A plaque on
the wall commemorates the
achievements of Catalonia’s
castellers, teams of amateur
gymnasts who can often be
seen building human towers
up to eight people high on
fiesta days in Gràcia. Cross
the square and leave by
Carrer Mariana Pineda. Cross
Travessera de Gràcia, one of
the district’s main shopping The interior and stained-glass windows at Casa Vicens 0
106 B A R C E L O N A A R E A B Y A R E A
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which will lead you on to the After crossing Carrer de Pere
wide seaward extension of IV, the Rambla narrows and
Avinguda Diagonal 2. This becomes more attractive. In the
takes you directly beneath a middle is a memorial to Doctor
tall, unusual and much- Josep Trueta 5. This
criticised building that breaks pioneering surgeon was born
up the city skyline, the Torre in Poblenou in 1897 and, after $ " 3 3 & 3 % & - 5" 6 - "5
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C A T A L O N I A 109
C ATA L O N I A
LLEIDA ANDORRA • • GIRONA
BARCELONA PROVINCE • TARRAGONA
T
here is a wealth of natural beauty in Catalonia’s four
provinces, plus the small Catalan-speaking country of
Andorra. They offer rocky coasts and mountains, fertile
plains and sandy shores. Many who visit don’t stray far from the
coast, but the rewards for venturing further afield are immense.
Beyond the constant bustle of Barcelona province has its
Barcelona, Catalonia is essen- own coasts; the Maresme to
tially a rural region, with no the north is rather spoiled by
large cities and few industrial the railway running beside the
blights. Of the four provinces, sea, but the Garraf to the south
all named after their principal is more exciting – Sitges is a
city, Lleida is the largest and highly fashionable spot. Inland
least populated. Among its are the Holy Mountain of Mont-
jewels are the Romanesque Santa Maria, Ripoll serrat (Catalonia’s spiritual
churches of the Boí valley heart), the Penedès winelands,
and the Aigüestortes National Park. and the country town of Vic.
The province of Girona is blessed Tarragona, the most southerly of the
with mountains and sea. This eastern provinces, has one of the peninsula’s
end of the Pyrenees has the magical former Roman capitals. Here the land
Cerdanya valley and the ancient rolls more gently, supporting fruit and
monasteries of Ripoll and Sant Joan nut orchards and the monastic com-
de les Abadesses, as well as medieval munities of Poblet and Santes Creus,
villages and a handsome and too-often before falling away towards the rice
overlooked capital city. Its coast, the lands of the Ebre. The coastline is more
Costa Brava, is rocky and full of delights. gentle, too, with long, sandy beaches.
Aigüestortes y E. Sant Maurici National Park in the central Pyrenees, in the province of Lleida
Exploring Catalonia
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BUTTERFLIES OF THE
Vall d’Aran 1 Vielha 2
VALL D’ARAN Lleida N230. c Vielha. Lleida. * 2,000. c n Carrer
A huge variety of butter- n Vielha (973 64 06 88). Sarriulera 10 (973 64 01 10). ( Thu.
flies and moths is found _ Festa de Vielha (8 Sep), Feria de
high in the valleys and This valley of valleys – aran Vielha (8 Oct).
mountains of the Pyrenees. means valley – is a lovely
The isolated Vall d’Aran is 600-sq km (230-sq mile) haven Now a modern ski resort, the
the home of several unique of forests and meadows filled capital of the Vall d’Aran retains
and rare subspecies. The with flowers, surrounded by its medieval past. The Roman-
best time of the year in towering mountain peaks. esque church of Sant Miquel
which to see the butterflies The Vall d’Aran was formed has an octagonal bell tower
is between May and July. by the Riu Garona, which rises and a 12th-century crucifix, the
in the area and flows out to Mig Aran Christ. It formed part
France as the Garonne. With of a larger carving representing
no proper link to the outside the Descent from the Cross.
world until 1924, when a road The Museu de la Vall d’Aran is
was built over the Bonaigua devoted to Aranese culture.
Pass, the valley was cut off
from the rest of Spain for most E Museu de la Vall d’Aran
of the winter. Snow blocks the Carrer Major 26. Tel 973 64 18 15.
narrow pass from November # 10am–1pm (mid-Jun–mid-Sep
Chequered Skipper
(Carterocephalus palemon)
to April, but today access is only), 5–8pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm
easy through the Túnel de Sun. ¢ bank hols. &
Vielha from El Pont de Suert.
The fact that the Vall d’Aran
faces north means that it has
a climate similar to that on the
Atlantic coast. Many rare wild
flowers and butterflies flourish
in the perfect conditions that
Clouded Apollo are created by the shady slopes
(Parnassins mnemosyne) and damp breezes. It is also
a famous habitat for many
species of narcissus.
Tiny villages have grown up
beside the Riu Garona, often
around Romanesque churches,
notably at Bossòst, Salardú,
Escunhau and Arties. The
Grizzled Skipper (underside) valley is also ideal for outdoor
(Pyrgus malvae) sports such as skiing and is Mig Aran Christ (12th-century), Sant
popular with walkers. Miquel church, Vielha
C A T A L O N I A 113
E Museu Comarcal
de la Garrotxa
Carrer Hospici 8. Tel 972 27 11 66.
# Sep–May: 10am–1pm, 3–6pm
Mon–Fri; Jun–Aug: 11am–2pm, 4–
7pm Mon–Fri; all year: 11am–2pm &
12th-century calvary, Sant Joan de Shop selling llonganisses in the
4–7pm Sat, 11am–2pm Sun. & 7
les Abadesses monastery mountain town of Camprodon
116 C A T A L O N I A
PALAMOS
A R
(Museu Arquelògic)
CB
Església de Sant Pere de C SA
NT
Jardi DAN
IE L
Galligants 1 Dr. Figueras
Banys
Museu d’Art 5 Sant Feliu Àrabs
PL
JURATS Ri u G a l ligan ts
Museu d’Història PLAÇA
SANT
FELIU PA Passeig Arqueològic
de la Ciutat 6 S S E IG
R E IN
Riu
AJ
Casa OA
NA
Pastors
On
Catedral
C JO
PL DE LA
C CA
yar
CATEDRAL
S
ÉC
LDE
Museu
AN
Pia
RES
Almoina d'Art
ALE
JAS
LL
Pont de
Manuel Museu CA
C.
LLO REN Ç
BAL
NEW TOWN
0 yards 250
LES
Museu d’ PL SANT
Airport
TER
Història DOMÈNECH
13km (8 miles)
IE S
Girona e intact and have been turned century, was built over the
into the Passeig Arqueològic tombs of St Felix and St
Girona. * 96,000. k £ c n (Archaeological Walk), which Narcissus, both patrons of the
Rambla de la Llibertat 1 (972 22 65 75). runs right round the city. city. Next to the high altar are
( Tue, Sat. _ Sant Narcís (29 Oct The walk’s starting point is eight Roman sarcophagi.
for a week). www.girona.cat/turisme on the north side of the town, Despite their name, the
near the Església de Sant Pere nearby Banys Àrabs (Arab
This handsome town puts on de Galligants (St Peter of the Baths) were built in the late
its best face beside the Riu Cock Crows) (see p23). The 12th century, about 300 years
Onyar, where tall, pastel- church now houses the city’s after the Moors had left.
coloured buildings rise above archaeological collection.
the water. Behind them, in the From here, a narrow street E Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta
old town, the Rambla de la goes through the north gate, Carrer de la Força 8. Tel 972 21 67
Llibertat is lined with busy where huge Roman foundation 61. # 10am–2pm Mon (to 8pm Jul–
shops and street cafés. stones are still visible. They Aug), 10am–6pm Tue–Sat (to 8pm
The houses were built in the mark the route of the Via Jul–Aug), 10am–2pm Sun. ¢ 1 & 6
19th century to replace sec- Augusta, the road which once Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
tions of the city wall damaged ran from Tarragona to Rome. This centre charts the history
during a seven-month siege The most popular place of of Jews in Girona. The
by French troops in 1809. Most devotion in the town is the buildings it occupies in the
of the rest of the ramparts, first Església de Sant Feliu. The maze of alleyways and steps
raised by the Romans, are still church, begun in the 14th in the old town were once
part of El Call, the Jewish
ghetto, which was inhabited
by the city’s Jews from the
late 9th century until their
expulsion from Spain in 1492.
R Catedral
# Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–7pm daily. &
Girona Cathedral’s west face is
pure Catalan Baroque, but the
rest of the building is Gothic.
The single nave, built in 1416
by Guillem Bofill, possesses
the widest Gothic span in the
Christian world. Behind the
altar is a marble throne known
Painted houses packed tightly along the bank of the Riu Onyar in Girona as “Charlemagne’s Chair”. It is
C A T A L O N I A 117
E Museu d’Història
de la Ciutat
Carrer de la Força 27. Tel 972 22
22 29. # Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan,
25 & 26 Dec. & 7
The city’s history museum is
in an 18th-century former
convent. Recesses where the
decomposing bodies of mem-
bers of the Capuchin Order
were placed can still be seen.
Exhibits include old sardana Ceiling fresco in the Wind Palace Room, Teatre-Museu Dalí
(see p129) instruments.
120 C A T A L O N I A
Cadaqués t
Girona. * 3,000. c n Carrer
Cotxe 2 (972 25 83 15). ( Mon.
_ Fiesta major de Verano (first week
of Sep), Santa Esperança (18 Dec).
• Cadaqués
• Roses
Cadaqués retains an air of seclusion as it is Roses lies at the head
accessible only by a steep road. It has an arty of a sweeping bay. Its
atmosphere and its small, stony beaches are sandy beach, the long-
relatively unspoiled and uncrowded. est on the Costa Brava,
has become a mecca
for lovers of water
sports.
• L’Estartit
•
Sant Feliu de Guixols
Monestir de Montserrat p
STAR FEATURES
View of Montserrat
. Basilica Façade
The complex includes cafés and a hotel.
. Black Virgin A second funicular transports visitors
to nature trails above the monastery.
C A T A L O N I A 123
Basilica Interior
The sanctuary in the domed
basilica is adorned by a
richly enamelled altar and
paintings by Catalan artists.
Vic a
Barcelona. * 40,000. £ c n C/
Ciutat 4 (93 886 20 91). ( Tue & Sat.
_ Mercat del Ram (Sat before Easter),
Sant Miquel (5–15 Jul), Música Viva (3
days mid-Sep), Mercat medieval (6–10
Dec). http://victurisme.ajvic.net
Tarragona. * 7,000. £ c n
Antigua Església de Sant Francesc R Monestir de Santes Creus
(977 86 17 33). ( Tue & Fri. _ Tel 977 63 83 29. # 10am–3pm
Tue–Sun & public hols. ¢ 1 Jan, 25
Festa major (8–11 Sep), Festa
Dec. & 7 8 by appointment.
Medieval (two weeks in Apr).
www.montblancmedieval.org
Vilafranca del
The medieval grandeur of Penedès k
Montblanc lives on within its
walls – possibly Catalonia’s Barcelona. * 38,000. £ c
finest piece of military archi- n Carrer Cort 14 (93 818 12 54).
tecture. At the Sant Jordi gate ( Sat. _ Fira de Mayo (2nd week Anxaneta climbing to the top
St George allegedly slew the of May), Festa major (end Aug). of a tower of castellers
dragon. The Museu Comarcal www.turismevilafranca.com
de la Conca de Barberà has HUMAN TOWERS
displays on local crafts. This market town is set in the The province of Tarragona
heart of Penedès, the main is famous for its casteller
E Museu Comarcal de la wine-producing region of festivals, in which teams of
Conca de Barberà Catalonia. The Vinseum men stand on each other’s
Carrer de Josa 6. Tel 977 86 03 49.
(Wine Museum) documents shoulders in an effort to
# Tue–Sun & public hols. &
the history of the area’s wine build the highest human
trade. Local bodegues can be tower (castell). Configura-
Santes Creus j visited for wine tasting. tions depend on the num-
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, the ber of men who form the
Tarragona. * 150. c n Plaça de capital of Spain’s sparkling base. Teams wear similar
Sant Bernat 1 (977 63 81 41). ( Sat wine, cava (see pp32–3), is colours, and often have
& Sun. _ Santa Llúcia (13 Dec). 8 km (5 miles) to the north. names denoting their home
town. The small child who
The tiny village of Santes E Vinseum has to undertake the
Plaça de Jaume I. Tel 93 890 05 82.
Creus is home to the prettiest perilous climb to the top,
# 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat.
of the “Cistercian triangle” where he or she makes the
sign of the cross, is called
the anxaneta. Castellers
assemble in competition
for Tarragona province’s
major festivals throughout
the year. In the wine town
of Vilafranca del Penedès
they turn out for Sant
Fèlix (30 August), and in
Tarragona city for Santa
Tecla, its festa major on 23
September. Rival teams in
Valls appear on St John’s
Day (24 June), but strive
for their best achievement
at the end of the tower-
building season on St
Ursula’s Day (21 October),
when teams from all over
Catalonia converge on the
town square.
Monestir de Santes Creus, surrounded by poplar and hazel trees
126 C A T A L O N I A
Monestir de Poblet g
View of Poblet
The abbey, its buildings enclosed
by fortified walls that have hardly
changed since the Middle Ages, is
in an isolated valley near the Riu
Francolí’s source.
Museum
Wine cellar
Library
The Gothic scriptorium was
converted into a library in Former
the 17th century, when the kitchen
Cardona family donated its Royal
book collection. doorway Museum
TIMELINE
1150 Santes Creus founded – third abbey Royal tombs
in Cistercian triangle
14th century Main cloister finished 1812 Poblet
1156 Founding of Cis- desecrated
tercian monastery at 1479 Juan II, last king by French 1940 Monks
Vallbona de les Monges of Aragón, buried here troops return
1196 Alfonso 1336–87 Reign of Pere the Ceremonious, who 1952 Tombs
II is the first designates Poblet a royal pantheon reconstructed.
king to be Royal remains
buried here returned
Parlour cloister
Sant Esteve
cloister
New
sacristy
. The Altar Piece
Behind the stone altar,
supported by Romanesque
columns, an impressive
alabaster reredos fills the
apse. It was sculpted by
Damià Forment in 1527.
. Cloisters
The evocative, vaulted STAR FEATURES
cloisters were built in the
12th and 13th centuries . The Altar Piece
and were the centre of
monastic life. The capitals . Royal Tombs
are beautifully decorated . Cloisters
with carved scrollwork.
128 C A T A L O N I A
Costa Daurada z
Tarragona. £ c Calafell, Sant Vicenç
de Calders, Salou. n Tarragona (977
23 34 15). www.costadaurada.org
WHERE TO STAY
C atalonia has an unrivalled
variety of accommoda-
tion. The Barcelona and
Catalonia tourist authorities
have complete listings of hotels,
while on the coast you can try a
self-catering holiday village (effi-
ciencies) with all sorts of sports
and entertainments provided.
Family-run cases de pagès, which
country houses and camp sites are stone-built farm or village
Sign for a luxury
as well as information on a range five-star hotel houses or country manors, are
of other options. In Barcelona Catalonia’s most distinctive alter-
you can stay in the modern luxury of native. Some of the best hotels in every
one of Spain’s highest skyscrapers, price range are listed on pages 134–41.
CAMP SITES
DIRECTORY
PARADORS RURAL Fax 93 483 83 62. DISABLED
ACCOMMODATION www.tujuca.com TRAVELLERS
Central de Reservas
Calle Requena 3, 28013 Associació Fondes SELF-CATERING Federació ECOM
Madrid. Tel 902 547 979. de Catalunya Gran Via de les Corts
Ramón Turró 63–65, 2 Villas 4 You Catalanes 562, principal,
Fax 902 525 432. Spring Mill, Earby,
08005 Barcelona. 2a, 08011 Barcelona.
www.parador.es Barnoldswick,
Tel 93 300 16 26. Tel 93 451 55 50.
Keytel Fax 93 300 16 58. Lancs BB94 0AA. Tel 93 451 69 04.
www.casafonda.com Tel 0845 268 0770. www.ecom.cat
International
402 Edgware Road, Federació d’Entitats www.villas4you.co.uk
SPANISH TOURIST
London W2 1ED. Excursionistes de CAMPING OFFICES
Tel 027 953 3020 in UK. Catalunya
www.keytel.co.uk La Rambla 41, Ppal., Associació de UK
08002 Barcelona. Càmpings de 22–23 Manchester Sq.,
Marketing Ahead Tel 93 412 07 77. Barcelona London W1U 3PX.
381 Park Av. Sth., Suite Fax 93 412 63 53. Gran Via Corts Tel 020 7486 8077.
718, New York, NY 10016. www.feec.cat Catalanes 608, 3a, www.spain.info
Tel 800 223 1356 (toll 08007 Barcelona.
Xarxa d’Albergs de US
free). Fax (212) 686 Tel 93 412 59 55.
Catalunya 666 Fifth Ave, Floor 35,
0271 in NY. Fax 93 302 13 36. New York, NY 10103.
Carrer Calàbria 147,
www.marketing 08015 Barcelona. www.campings Tel (212) 265 8822.
ahead.com Tel 93 483 83 41. barcelona.com www.spain.info
134 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
OLD TOWN
Downtown Paraiso z ¡
C/Junta de Comerç 13, 08001 Tel 93 302 61 34 Fax 93 302 61 34 Rooms 8 Map 2 F3
Established by four former travellers, this friendly hostal is located in a renovated townhouse on a quiet street in the
lively Raval area. A hit with young backpackers, there is no curfew, a range of rooms, with or without bathrooms,
Wi-Fi access and a kitchen for guests’ use. www.downtownparaisohostel.com
Pensió 2000 ¡
Carrer de Sant Pere més Alt 6,1st floor, 08003 Tel 93 310 7466 Fax 93 319 42 52 Rooms 6 Map 5 B1
This welcoming little hostal has a perfect location overlooking the flamboyant Modernista Palau de la Música. The
cosy bedrooms, some with shared bathroooms, lead off a large, comfortable sitting room with a big TV. Triple and
quadruple rooms are also available. www.pensio2000.com
Pensíon Mari-Luz ¡
Quartier Gothic ¡
Carrer Argenteria 37, 08003 Tel 93 268 84 60 Fax 93 268 84 61 Rooms 56 Map 5 B3
Situated on a lively and mostly traffic-free street in the chic Born neighbourhood, this is an affordable boutique hotel
with a sleek, less-is-more approach to design and small but comfortable rooms. Slightly more spacious suites are
available in two other buildings a short walk away. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelbanysorientals.com
Gat Raval ez ¡¡
Carrer de Joaquín Costa 44, 08001 Tel 93 481 66 70 Fax 93 342 66 97 Rooms 24 Map 2 F1
A hip, newish hostal, painted in an eye-catching lime green and brilliant white, this is an excellent budget choice in
the heart of the trendy Raval district. Huge blown-up photographs of Barcelona give it a stylish edge. Rooms are
plain, but crisp and modern, and there is Internet access for guests. www.gatrooms.es
Gat Xino :z ¡¡
Hostería Grau hz ¡¡
Market 7e0:z ¡¡
Passatge Sant Antoni Abad 10, 08015 Tel 93 325 12 05 Fax 93 424 29 65 Rooms 52 Map 2 E1
Close to the Modernista market of Sant Antoni, this stylish hotel has oriental-themed rooms, with glossy, lacquered
wood and a red, white and black colour theme. The hotel has a popular restaurant, where breakfast is served. Free
Wi-Fi. Book well in advance. www.markethotel.com.es
Metropol 7eh0z ¡¡
Carrer Ample 31, 08002 Tel 93 310 51 00 Fax 93 319 12 76 Rooms 71 Map 5 A3
This handsome 19th-century hotel has been thoroughly modernized but retains some old-fashioned charm. It is
tucked away down a quiet street in the Barri Gòtic, and the streetside rooms, many with balconies, are bright and
modern. Interior rooms can be a little gloomy. www.hesperia-metropol.com
Rambla del Raval 17–21, 08001 Tel 93 320 14 90 Fax 93 320 14 94 Rooms 188 Map 2 F3
This striking hotel dominates the otherwise down-at-heel Rambla del Raval. The rooftop terrace with its stunning
views is a huge draw, and the open-plan rooms are stylish, with retro fittings and soft neon glows. Gadget fans are
catered for with Nespresso machines and iPod docks. Free Wi-Fi. www.barcelo.com
Carrer de la Princesa 50, 08003 Tel 93 295 46 52 Fax 93 295 46 53 Rooms 31 Map 5 C2
This converted 19th-century townhouse is popular with visiting fashionistas. The rooms are decorated completely in
white, with contemporary glass and steel bathrooms, but they are given a touch of kitsch glamour with a colourful
LED light system. The White Bar is very hip. Free Wi-Fi. www.chicandbasic.com
Carrer Pelai 3, 08001 Tel 93 552 96 96 Fax 93 552 96 97 Rooms 108 Map 5 A1
A glassy ultra-modern hotel near the Plaça de Catalunya, this offers better facilities than its three-star rating would
suggest. There’s a small rooftop pool with sun-deck, and the rooms (all soundproofed) are stylishly decorated with
contemporary furniture and fabrics. Free Wi-Fi. www.hoteljazzbarcelona.com
Nouvel 0z ¡¡¡
Carrer de Santa Anna 18–20, 08002 Tel 93 301 82 74 Fax 93 301 83 70 Rooms 78 Map 5 A1
In a pretty little shopping street off La Rambla, near the Plaça de Catalunya, this well-managed old-style hotel is
tastefully decorated and furnished. The best rooms have curving Modernista-style balconies, and there’s a charming
lobby and lounge area with 1920s-style chandeliers. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelnouvel.com
Carrer de Marquès de l’Argentera 11, 08003 Tel 93 319 60 00 Fax 93 319 45 19 Rooms 91 Map 5 C3
A rare gem of 1950s architecture, designed by Antonio Moragas in 1951 and well preserved during his son’s award-
winning renovations in 1990. The slim wraparound staircase is a highlight. Rooms are small but smartly furnished
and the best have balconies. Free Wi-Fi. www.parkhotelbarcelona.com
Carrer de la Boquería 10, 08002 Tel 93 302 00 92 Fax 93 302 15 66 Rooms 61 Map 5 A2
A handsomely converted townhouse just off La Rambla houses this smart, boutique hotel. Modern, colourful rooms
have a musical theme (the city’s Opera House is around the corner). The large and shady interior garden with its
ancient trees and candle-lit corners is deeply romantic. Free Wi-Fi. www.hthoteles.com.
La Rambla 109, 08002 Tel 93 552 95 52 Fax 93 552 95 50 Rooms 169 Map 5 A2
This chic hotel is located in a 19th-century tobacco factory at the top of Las Ramblas. The decor has retained some of
the original fittings and combined them with 21st-century amenities, such as indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a
state-of-the art spa, a fitness centre and a good restaurant and bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotel1898.es
Via Laietana 30, 08003 Tel 93 295 79 00 Fax 93 268 12 15 Rooms 147 Map 5 B2
A rooftop infinity pool, with a great view across the Born neighbourhood to the sea, is perhaps the Grand Central’s
finest feature. Rooms are large and airy, if dimly lit, with wide comfortable beds, and even the standard rooms come
with CD, DVD and MP3 players. Special two-night packages are available. Free Wi-Fi. www.grandhotelcentral.com
Carrer de Marina 19–21, 08005 Tel 93 221 10 00 Fax 93 221 10 70 Rooms 483 Map 6 E4
Set in a soaring tower overlooking the Port Olímpic, this is one of Europe’s most luxurious and glamorous hotels. Huge
rooms boast spectacular views along with every imaginable modern convenience, and there are stunning suites on
the upper floors for those with very deep pockets. The best spa in town. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelartsbarcelona.com
136 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
Moll de Levant, Passeig Joan de Borbó, 08039 Tel 93 221 08 30 Fax 91 360 72 14 Rooms 473 Map 5 B4
Designed by Ricardo Bofill to resemble a giant silvery sail, the enormous W Hotel dominates the port. Each sleek room
boasts extraordinary views through floor-to-ceiling windows, and comes equipped with Munchie boxes and an iPod dock-
ing station. Several restaurants for fine dining, a spa and a stunning rooftop bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.starwoodhotels.com
La Rambla 111, 08002 Tel 93 318 62 00 Fax 93 301 77 76 Rooms 233 Map 5 A1
A very elegant hotel on La Rambla, this is popular with visiting film stars and opera singers from the nearby Liceu
opera house. Rooms are handsomely furnished and the hotel is well equipped for business travellers. For a treat,
book the extravagant Presidential Suite. Free Wi-Fi. www.lemeridienbarcelona.com
Carrer de Sant Sever 5, 08002 Tel 93 304 06 55 Fax 93 304 03 37 Rooms 22 Map 5 A2
An enchanting hotel which combines the architectural features of the original 18th-century palace with sleek con-
temporary fittings. Airy, stylish rooms are draped in sensuous fabrics, and there’s a magnificent rooftop terrace with
views of the Gothic cathedral. Fabulous restaurant too serving Mediterranean cuisine. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelneri.com
EIXAMPLE
Hostal Eden ez ¡
Carrer Balmes 55, principal 1a, 08007 Tel 93 452 66 20 Fax 93 452 66 21 Rooms 30 Map 3 A4
An excellent-value pensión where guests can use a lounge with DVD player and a free internet connection along
with a sunny terrace. The rooms themselves are plain but clean and adequate, making this a good deal for those
who wish to be near some of Gaudí’s best-known buildings without spending a fortune. www.hostaleden.net
Carrer de Mallorca 255, 08008 Tel 93 215 10 40 Fax 93 487 04 59 Rooms 15 Map 3 A4
A modest hostal located in a handsome Modernista building on one of the Eixample’s most elegant streets. All rooms
have free Wi-Fi, mini-bars and air conditioning. Rear rooms on the second floor are quieter than those closer to street
level. No breakfasts, but there are dozens of cafés close by. www.hostalciudadcondal.com
Hostal Girona ez ¡¡
Carrer Girona 24, 08010 Tel 93 265 02 59 Fax 93 265 85 32 Rooms 26 Map 5 C1
After the terracotta walls, antique furnishings, oil paintings and velvet sofas of the entrance and hallway, the rooms
here can seem something of a disappointment. In fact they are exactly as you would expect from a pensión – simple,
modestly-sized and clean – and most are en suite. Free Wi-Fi. www.hostalgirona.com
Passeig de Gràcia 102, 08008 Tel 93 215 06 03 Fax 93 215 37 24 Rooms 33 Map 3 B3
There are few budget choices in the chi-chi Eixample district, but this modest little hotel is a good option. It has a
fabulous location on the city’s most desirable boulevard, close to the finest Gaudí buildings, and some of the simple
rooms offer views of the Plaça de Catalunya. www.hotelpaseodegracia.es
Carrer Rosselló 238, 08008 Tel 93 552 05 50 Fax 93 552 05 55 Rooms 29 Map 3 B3
This modern, stylish hotel is fashionably decorated in sleek minimalist style. It has a superb location on the same block
as Gaudí’s La Pedrera, and the upmarket boutiques of the Passeig de Gràcia are on the doorstep. Like many hotels in
this area, it is geared towards business travellers, which means good weekend deals. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelactual.com
Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY 137
Carrer d’Enric Granados 83, 08008 Tel 93 492 96 70 Fax 93 492 96 90 Rooms 77 Map 3 A3
The rooms at this designer hotel are stylishly decorated with African zebrawood, chocolate brown leather and
original pieces of Buddhist and Hindu art. Suites have private terraces overlooking a small plunge pool. There is an
excellent restaurant and a small rooftop with a very fashionable bar. Free Wi-Fi. www.derbyhotels.es
Rambla Catalunya 104, 08008 Tel 93 550 06 00 Fax 93 550 06 01 Rooms 53 Map 3 A3
One of the fanciest establishments on the Barcelona hotel scene, the Murmuri is part of a small luxury chain that
includes the nearby Hotel Majestic. Rooms are suitably plush, and there is a fabulously trendy cocktail bar as well
as an acclaimed Asian restaurant. Tapas are served on a quiet terrace. Free Wi-Fi. www.murmuri.com
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 543, 08011 Tel 93 552 96 10 Fax 93 552 96 11 Rooms 51 Map 2 E1
The Hotel Soho is chic without being intimidating, and staff are helpful and friendly. The decked rooftop terrace with
plunge pool and bar is a popular place to hang out, while the rooms are a good size, with glassed-in bathrooms. The
hotel can get busy so book well in advance. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelsohobarcelona.com
Passeig de Gràcia 62, 08007 Tel 93 272 41 80 Fax 93 272 41 81 Rooms 45 Map 3 A4
Zen meets Modernism in this tasteful, luxury hotel near Gaudí’s most important buildings. Rooms are light-filled and
stylish, with up-to-the-minute amenities including Bang and Olufsen TVs and music systems. In the chilled-out
Zeroom, you can browse through art and design books. www.sixtytwohotel.com
Carrer Pau Clarís 150, 08009 Tel 93 487 62 62 Fax 93 215 79 70 Rooms 124 Map 3 B4
Antique kilims and elegant English and French furniture ornament this hotel off the Passeig de Gràcia. It occupies
the converted Vedruna Palace, and is scattered with fabulous artworks from around the world. There’s a panoramic
rooftop pool and sun-deck, and guests may use the hotel Smart cars. Free Wi-Fi. www.derbyhotels.es
Passeig de Gràcia 73–75, 08008 Tel 93 445 00 00 Fax 93 445 32 32 Rooms 235 Map 3 A4
This hotel is located in two handsomely renovated Modernista palaces, with marble lobbies and creamy façades. The
rooms in both locations are coolly contemporary and some have Jacuzzis. Choose a room with terrace to admire
Gaudí’s La Pedrera directly across the street. Free Wi-Fi. www.condesdebarcelona.com
Carrer Sicilia 255, 08025 Tel 93 208 20 51 Fax 93 208 20 52 Rooms 19 Map 4 D3
This aparthotel has a stunning location next to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família cathedral. The 18 two-bedroom apartments
and one suite are traditionally decorated. Proceeds from the aparthotel go to the Dr Melchor Colet foundation for
cancer research. Colet’s collection of vintage cars is on permanent show. Free Wi-Fi. www.hispanos7suiza.com
Passeig de Gràcia 68, 08007 Tel 93 488 17 17 Fax 93 488 18 80 Rooms 303 Map 3 A4
A grand, traditional hotel in Neo-Classical style in a chic street (adjoining the Carrer de València). The stylish
bedrooms are decorated with plush drapes and elegant prints, and are all equipped with five-star amenities.
There is a beautiful spa and a small rooftop pool with spectacular views. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelmajestic.es
Carrer Rosselló 265, 08008 Tel 93 445 40 00 Fax 93 445 40 04 Rooms 91 Map 3 B3
From the glistening ultra-modern façade with its peeled-back balconies, to the fluid, glassy public spaces, this hotel is
the epitome of sleek Barcelona design. The fashionably minimalist rooms are very comfortable, and the slick bar and
club make it popular with fashionistas. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelomm.es
FURTHER AFIELD
CATALONIA
Passeig Darder 50, 17820 (Girona) Tel 972 57 10 45 Fax 972 57 10 39 Rooms 27
A cheerful, old-style hotel overlooking the vast lake at Banyoles, they offer traditionally decorated rooms, a huge
swimming pool and lots of lakeside activities. There’s a good restaurant serving tasty local specialities. Mirallac is
also an ideal place for adventure sports lovers. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelmirallac.com
Carrer del Racó (Sa Riera) 2, 17255 Tel 972 62 30 91 Fax 972 62 31 04 Rooms 25
A tranquil retreat amid a forest of pine and Mediterranean oak, this serene hotel is perfectly located mid-way between
medieval Begur and the charming cove of Sa Riera. It occupies a handsomely restored 18th-century convent, which com-
bines original details with elegant, contemporary design. Free Wi-Fi. Excellent restaurant. www.hotelconventbegur.com
Mas Salvanera s/n, 17850 (Girona) Tel 972 59 09 75 Fax 972 59 08 63 Rooms 10
This handsome 17th-century Catalan farmhouse has been attractively converted into a small, family-run rural hotel.
It is beautifully set in gardens, and offers delicious home-cooked food to its guests. Lots of opportunities for hiking,
fishing and horseback riding in the local area. www.salvanera.com
Camí Reial s/n, 17539 (Girona) Tel 972 14 01 82 Fax 972 14 04 49 Rooms 20
One of the most luxurious hotels in the region, this opulent Modernista mansion is set in magnificent gardens
with a stunning mountain backdrop. The classically decorated rooms are perfectly equipped with up-to-the-minute
gadgetry, and the extensive facilities include a new spa and gym. Free Wi-Fi. www.torredelremei.com
Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY 139
Carretera Nova Port Lligat, 17488 (Girona) Tel 972 25 89 62 Fax 972 15 90 90 Rooms 12
Three houses and a swimming pool surrounded by shady gardens comprise this appealing hotel, one of the most
unusual on the Costa Brava. It’s a good spot for families, with a barbecue area, billiard room and a swimming pool.
There’s a snack bar in high season, but no restaurant. Closed Jan–Mar. www.hotel-misty.com
Carrer de Castell s/n, 08261 (Barcelona) Tel 93 869 12 75 Fax 93 869 16 36 Rooms 54
One of the most striking paradors in Spain, this luxuriously converted medieval castle dominates Cardona and
offers spectacular views of the countryside. Many of the elegant rooms boast four-poster beds, and it has a fine
Catalan restaurant. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es
Avinguda del Hotel 22, 08860 (Barcelona) Tel 93 665 13 00 Fax 93 664 51 51 Rooms 220
This huge Mediterranean-style hotel has arches and whitewashed walls. Choose between modern rooms or more
traditional decor in the rustic zone. There are excellent sports facilities, with everything from squash courts to a
swimming pool. The hilltop setting offers wonderful views of the coast. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelreydonjaime.es
Afueras s/n, Peratallada (Girona), 17113 Tel 617 46 49 14 Fax 972 63 42 00 Rooms 13
Set in exquisite gardens on the outskirts of the magical medieval village of Peratallada, this is a peaceful and very stylish
rural hotel. There are two swimming pools in the grounds and various activities, including golf, cycling, horse-riding
and even hot-air balloon rides, can be arranged via the hotel. The restaurant has an open fire. www.hotelaatu.net
Carrer Anselm Clavé 1, 08400 (Barcelona) Tel 93 870 03 12 Fax 93 870 79 01 Rooms 7
This small hotel has been an inn for travellers since 1714, and is still owned by the same family. The bedrooms, on
the second floor, have been completely modernized, and are simply decorated. The restaurant is the big draw here,
with its hearty Catalan specialities prepared to traditional recipes. Free Wi-Fi. www.casafondaeuropa.com
Carrer Mina, 7, 08530 (Barcelona) Tel 93 860 56 00 Fax 93 871 94 22 Rooms 312
This handsome 19th-century hotel and thermal centre has been converted to include modern five-star luxuries, and is
located in a relaxing spa town near Barcelona. The rooms are classically decorated with prints and drapes, and excel-
lent facilities include a beauty spa and gardens. Free Wi-Fi. www.spablancafort.com
Carrer Sant Domènec 6, 25700 (Lleida) Tel 973 35 20 00 Fax 973 35 23 09 Rooms 80
Only the Renaissance cloister, now used as the lounge, remains of a convent that occupied this site close to the
12th-century cathedral of La Seu. The modern parador has good facilities, including a covered pool, and there are
excellent opportunities on the doorstep for hiking and skiing. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es
Plaça de Montserrat Canals 1, 43440 (Tarragona) Tel 977 87 04 11 Fax 977 87 01 27 Rooms 38
A three-storey, whitewashed hotel with simply furnished, traditional rooms including family rooms. There’s a
delightful shady garden where barbecues are held in summer. A menu of delicious dishes traditional to the area is
served in the restaurant. www.hostaldelsenglar.com
Platja Santa Cristina, 17310 (Girona) Tel 972 36 49 04 Fax 972 36 92 80 Rooms 76
The modern Hotel Santa Marta overlooks a beautiful cove on the fringes of the frenetic resort of Lloret de Mar.
Tranquil pine woods and gardens extend to the shore, and there are tennis courts and other sporting facilities. Free
Wi-Fi. Closed mid-Nov–mid-Feb. www.hstamarta.com
Ctra Palautorder al Montseny, 08460 (Barcelona) Tel 938 47 30 65 Fax 938 47 31 84 Rooms 14
A traditional country house lost in a verdant fold of the glorious Montseny hills, Can Barrina is famous for its excellent
Catalan restaurant. Few people realise, however, that it also has a handful of antique-filled guestrooms, each with original
beams and rustic decoration. The gardens boast sublime views and there is a small pool. www.canbarrina.com
Finca El Clot, Ctra Sta Ma de Palautordera a Seva, km 20.8, 08460 (Barcelona) Tel 93 847 30 11 Rooms 23
A gorgeous country house with beautiful views over the Serra de Montseny, the old stone walls are cloaked in greenery.
The rooms and suites are stylishly decorated with traditional prints and rustic furniture. It’s surrounded by extensive
gardens with lawns and a pond, and all kinds of outdoor activities can be arranged. www.hotelhusasantbernat.com
Carrer Afores s/n, 25790 (Lleida) Tel 973 47 02 66 Fax 973 47 02 81 Rooms 41
This good-value, traditional mountain hotel has been in the same family for ten generations. It has charming rooms
and apartments with breathtaking views, and is very convenient for walking in the Pyrenean foothills. The service is
outstanding. Closed Jan–mid-Feb. www.canboix.cat
Plaça Major s/n, 17214 (Girona) Tel 972 30 62 70 Fax 972 30 62 73 Rooms 7
In the heart of a rambling, medieval village, this boutique-style hotel is located in a pair of handsomely restored
18th-century mansions. Sleek minimalism and charming original features are stylishly combined in the bedrooms.
There’s a lovely semi-shaded pool in the garden. Free Wi-Fi. www.hoteldelteatre.com
Ctra San Sadurni–Vilafranca km 4, Lavern, 08739 (Barcelona) Tel 938 99 32 04 Fax 938 99 34 35 Rooms 25
A cheerful, traditional hotel set in a sea of vines, this is a good base for exploring the wine- and cava-producing
region southwest of Barcelona. It offers comfortable, simple rooms and boasts a superb restaurant which specialises
in traditional Catalan dishes. Free Wi-Fi. www.solivi.com
Carretera de Vilafranca km 2.4, 18810 (Barcelona) Tel 93 896 20 61 Fax 93 896 20 61 Rooms 9
On the slope of a hill, with views of the Penèdes wine region, this rustic 18th-century house has plenty of
atmosphere and charm but few luxuries. Half lost in greenery, it’s a tranquil world away from the frenzied nightlife
of nearby Sitges. No restaurant but home-cooked meals are available. www.sumidors.com
Carretera Santa Cristina-Platja d’Aro, 17246 (Girona) Tel 972 83 75 26 Fax 972 83 75 27 Rooms 18
An attractive 18th-century country house hotel, with ancient stone walls and flower-filled gardens. Its most
comfortable bedroom is in the distinctive yellow tower, built at a later date. There’s a pool and tennis courts and
horseback riding can be arranged. The restaurant is excellent. Closed Oct–Mar. www.mastorrellas.com
Key to Price Guide see p134 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY 141
Carrer Sant Isidre 33, 08870 (Barcelona) Tel 93 894 83 75 Fax 93 894 41 29 Rooms 60
Well known in Sitges, this memorable hotel lives up to its name. Bedrooms are simple, but attractively decorated
with antiques and paintings. A gloriously shady garden, with tinkling fountains, is perfect for breakfast and evening
cocktails. Closed Nov–Mar. www.hotelromantic.com
Passeig Les Palmeres s/n, 43003 (Tarragona) Tel 977 23 30 40 Fax 977 21 65 66 Rooms 170
The plushest option in Tarragona, this large, modern hotel has a panoramic location right on the Balconi del
Mediterrani. Many of the spacious, elegant rooms and suites have large terraces and the hotel is conveniently close
to the historic centre of the city. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelhusaimperialtarraco.com
Rambla Nova 20, 43004 (Tarragona) Tel 977 23 67 12 Fax 977 23 67 00 Rooms 72
A modern, functional hotel in the town centre and close to the sea, with an elegant entrance under balustraded
stone stairs. Rooms are large, although the decor is dated, but the hotel offers good amenities for the price,
including a pool and facilities for business travellers. Self-catering apartments also available. www.hlauria.es
TAVERTET El Jufré ¡
Carretera a Baqueira-Beret km 177.5, 25598 (Lleida) Tel 973 64 40 14 Fax 973 64 43 00 Rooms 45
Skiers and mountain-walkers find this hotel in the Val d’Aran good value. It is built of stone and slate in the local
style, and offers attractive rooms with wooden beams. There’s a cosy lounge with fireplace in winter, and a heart-
shaped outdoor pool to cool off in summer. Free Wi-Fi. Closed Oct, Nov, May and Jun. www.hoteldetredos.com
Paratge Bac de Sau, 08500 (Barcelona) Tel 93 812 23 23 Fax 93 812 23 68 Rooms 36
This comfortable stone-built parador, 14 km (9 miles) from Vic, has magnificent views of the Sau reservoir. It’s a
peaceful retreat amid pine forests and dramatic rock formations. Facilities include a tennis court and an outdoor pool
in summers. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es
Carretera de túnel, 25530 (Lleida) Tel 973 64 01 00 Fax 973 64 11 00 Rooms 118
This modern parador has a panoramic circular lounge dominated by a large window from which there are
magnificent mountain views. There’s a wonderful spa and a fine restaurant, and the rooms are spacious and well
appointed. Free Wi-Fi. www.parador.es
Carrer Torreventosa 12, 17406 (Girona) Tel 938 84 90 34 Fax 938 84 94 65 Rooms 26
A traditional hotel with a family atmosphere in a conventional Catalan house above the Serra de Montseny. The fine
restaurant serves creative Catalan specialities and the outdoor pool is surrounded by gardens. You can rent bikes and
horseback-riding can be arranged. www.hoteldelagloria.com
Carrer Isaac Peral 4, 08800 (Barcelona) Tel 93 815 11 25 Fax 93 815 67 19 Rooms 30
This hotel, near the Ribes Roges beach, is located in a marvellous turn-of-the-19th-century mansion. It is owned by
two sisters who pay great attention to detail, from the furniture and the fabrics in the bedrooms to the well-known
restaurant. There are delightful gardens with a pool, which is covered in winter. Free Wi-Fi. www.hotelcesar.net
142 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
CARN (MEAT)
OLD TOWN
Bar Pinotxo ¤ : ¡
Elisabets ¤ : z ¡
Organic :z7 ¡
Inopia : z ¡¡
Kaiku h:z ¡¡
Mam i Teca :z ¡¡
Mosquito :z ¡¡
EIXAMPLE
Cata 1.81 hz ¡¡
Madrid-Barcelona h:z7 ¡¡
Alkimia z7 ¡¡¡¡
Noti z7 ¡¡¡¡
Key to Price Guide see p146 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 149
MONTJUÏC
Rosal 34 7 ¡¡
Xemei Δ ¡¡¡
FURTHER AFIELD
CATALONIA
ALTAFULLA Faristol :Δ ¡¡
Key to Price Guide see p146 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D B A R S 151
OLD TOWN
Barcelona Rouge ¤ ¡
Boadas ¤h:z ¡
Bodega La Palma ¡
Caelum :z ¡
Café Bliss ¡
El Xampanyet : ¡
Escribà :zΔ ¡
La Granja ¤: ¡
Marsella ¤ ¡
Ginger :z ¡¡
Va de Vi :z7 ¡¡
EIXAMPLE
MONTJUÏC
Quimet i Quimet ¡¡
FURTHER AFIELD
SHOPPING IN BARCELONA
B arcelona is sophisticated,
stylish and neatly divided
into distinctive shopping
districts – Passeig de Gràcia for
chi-chi designer stores, the Barri
limited. All shops are closed on
Sunday. There are food markets
as well – 44 in all – for every
barrio, and a scattering of flea
markets such as the Parisian-style
Gòtic for more eclectic antiques Els Encants and the antiques fair
and boutiques, El Born for seri- in Sant Cugat, which has a more
ous fashion divas, and El Raval for Provençal flavour. A convenient
markets and museum shops. way to tour Barcelona’s shops
Though these rules are by no and markets is by taxi or public
means fixed, they do provide a transport. Even though there are
useful rule of thumb and help A Modernista many car parks in the city, there’s
define the city, when time is shop window little point in hiring a car.
DEPARTMENT STORES
AND ‘GALERIES’
DIRECTORY
FOOD AND DRINK El Corte Inglés SPECIALITY Pilma
Avinguda Diagonal 617–19. STORES Avinguda Diagonal 403.
Colmado Quílez Tel 93 366 71 00.
La Caixa de Fang Map 3 A2.
Rambla de Catalunya 63.
L’Illa C/ Freneria 1. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 416 13 99.
Map 3 A4.
Avinguda Diagonal 545–57. Tel 93 315 17 04.
Tel 93 215 23 56. Vinçon
Tel 93 444 00 00.
Cereria Subirà P de Gràcia 96. Map 3 B3.
Escribà Pastisseries Maremagnum Bajada Llibreteria 7. Map Tel 93 215 60 50.
La Rambla 83. Map 2 F4. Moll d’Espanya. 5 B2. Tel 93 315 26 06.
Tel 93 301 60 27. www.maremagnum.es
L’Estanc BOOKS AND
Gran Via de les Corts Via Laietana 4. Map 5 B3. NEWSPAPERS
FASHION
Catalanes 546. Tel 93 310 10 34.
Map 2 E1. Adolfo Domínguez Come In
La Manual
P de Gràcia 89. Map 3 A3. C/Balmes 129. Map 3 A3.
Tel 93 454 75 35. Alpargatera
Tel 93 487 98 01. Tel 93 453 12 04.
C/ d’Avinyó 7. Map 5 A3.
DEPARTMENT Armand Basi Tel 93 301 01 72.
Passeig de Gràcia 49. Map MARKETS
STORES AND
3 A3. Tel 93 215 14 21. DESIGN, ART AND
‘GALERIES’ La Boqueria
Betty B ANTIQUES
La Rambla 101. Map 5 A2.
Bulevard Rosa C/ Rec, 58. Map 5 C3. L’Arca de l’Àvia
Passeig de Gràcia 55. Calçats Solé Carrer dels Banys Nous 20. Encants Vells
Map 3 A4. Carrer Ample 7. Map 5 A3. Map 5 A2. C/ Dos de Maig, P de les
Tel 93 215 83 31. Tel 93 301 69 84. Tel 93 302 15 98. Glòries. Map 4 F5.
156 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
1963 and still producing the and wholegrain breads. table wines for around €3 a
traditional Catalan coques. Delicious homemade cakes bottle, to decadently
These can either be sweet or and pizzas are also available, expensive Priorats and Riojas
savoury and are mostly eaten and all products are baked that retail in the region of
on 23 June, the Sant Joan on the premises. €300. Last, but by no means
festival (see p35) and the least, to leave Barcelona
longest day of the year. WINE AND without a bottle of the
Another great panadería CIGARS nation’s beloved Catalan
is Foix de Sarriá on Major champagne (cava) would be
de Sarriá, very well known For sheer scope you can’t verging on the sacrilegious.
for its excellent pastries and beat Lavinia, the biggest wine You can buy it everywhere,
other baked goods. Amongst shop in Spain, with branches but for something truly
its specialities are “royal in Madrid as well as in Paris, special head for Xampany,
cake”, sachertorte panellets which stocks thousands of which specialises in artisan
(round marzipan cakes), labels from all over the cavas from the Penedès
pasta de té (fruit biscuits) world. Choice comes at a wine-producing region. The
and saras (sponge cake price, however, and you will ultimate place for cigar-lovers
covered with butter cream get better deals downtown. and pipe smokers is Gimeno.
and almonds). In El Born, Vila Viniteca sells This legendary purveyor of
For the best breads in town, a formidable range of all things tobacco-related
visit Barcelona Reykjavic, Spanish and Catalan wines also stocks a fine range of
which sells artisan, organic ranging from cheap, cheerful Cuban havanas.
DIRECTORY
CHARCUTERIE, Mantequeria Enric Rovira Cusachs
CHEESE AND Ravell Avinguda Josep Bailén 223,
DELICATESSENS C/Arago 313. Tarradellas 113, Eixample
Map 3 A4. Eixample. Map 3 C2.
La Botifarrería Tel 93 457 51 14. Tel 93 419 25 47. Tel 93 213 77 29.
de Santa María Origins 99.9% Escribà Foix de Sarriá
Carrer Santa C/Vidrieria 6-8, Pastisseries
Major de Sarriá 57.
María 4. Map 5 B3. Born. La Rambla 83,
Tel 93 203 07 14.
Tel 93 310 75 31. Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 319 97 84. Fax 93 280 65 56.
Map 5 A1.
Casa Gispert CHOCOLATE Tel 93 301 60 27.
WINES AND
AND CANDIES
C/Sombrerers 23, Papabubble CIGARS
Born. Antiga Casa C/Ample 28,
Gimeno
Mauri Barri Gòtic.
Map 5 B3. La Rambla 100.
C/Flassanders 32. Map 5 A3.
Tel 93 319 75 35. Map 5 A1.
Map 5 C2. Tel 93 268 86 25.
Tel 93 318 49 47.
Colmado Quílez Tel 93 310 04 58. Xocoa
Rambla de Catalunya 63, C/Vidreria 4, Lavinia
Bubó
Born. Av. Diagonal 605,
Eixample. C/Caputxes 10,
Map 5 A3. Map 5 B2. Eixample.
Map 3 A3.
Tel 93 268 72 24. Tel 93 319 79 05. Map 3 A2.
Tel 93 215 23 56.
C/Princesa 10, Born. Tel 93 363 44 45.
Cacao Sampaka Tel 93 319 66 40.
Formatgeria La Seu Vila Viniteca
C/Consell de C/Petritxol 11–13.
C/Dagueria 16, Cent 292, C/Agullers 7–9,
Tel 93 301 11 97.
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A2. Eixample. Born.
HATS AND SHOES espadrilles and straw hats. materials and in a wide
Another shop, Casas Sabaters, choice of colours. Vialis is
Patterned leather shoes and has several branches around another local brand, the first
decorative soles from the cult town, all offering a top quality shop opening in El Born in
Mallorcan shoe-maker Camper range of leading Spanish 1998. The shoes are unusual,
can be purchased for around footwear brands. They are beautifully made and very
25 per cent less in Barcelona also good for last-minute sale comfortable. The collection
than other places in Spain. La items and last-season’s knock- of trainers is also popular.
Manual Alpargatera is another offs. Muxart is a Barcelona- The old-fashioned hat shop
cult classic, beloved by based local brand that only Sombrereria Obach sells all
sardana dancers (Catalonia’s sells at its own stores. It sells the classics ranging from
national dance) and celebrities some of the most amazing, Basque berets to stetsons,
alike for his exquisite hand- original and pricey shoes, trilbys and hand-woven
made, individually fitted handcrafted from the finest Montecristi Panamas.
DIRECTORY
JEWELLERY, Chanel HIGH STREET Zara
BAGS AND Passeig de Gràcia 70, AND SPORTS Passeig de Gràcia 16,
ACCESSORIES Eixample. FASHION Eixample.
Map 3 A4.
0,925 Tel 93 488 29 23. Adolfo Dominguez Map 3 A5.
C/ Montcada 25, Passeg de Gràcia 32, Tel 93 318 76 75.
Gucci
Born. Eixample.
Passeig de Gràcia 76,
Map 5 B3. Map 3 A5. HATS AND
Eixample.
Tel 93 319 43 18. Map 3 A3. Tel 93 487 41 70. SHOES
www.albertolobo.com Tel 93 416 06 20. Botiga del Barça Camper
Josep Font Maremàgnum
Demano Plaça Ângels con
C/ Provença, 304, (Moll d’Espanya).
Pallars 94, 7, 1a. C/Elizabets,
Eixample. Map 5 A4.
Map 6 E2. Map 3 A3. Tel 93 225 80 45. El Raval.
Tel 93 300 4807. Tel 93 487 21 10. Map 2 F2.
Como Agua de
http://demano.net Loewe Tel 93 342 41 41.
Mayo
Fet amb Love Passeig de Gràcia 35. C/Argenteria 43. Casas Sabaters
Map 3 A4. Map 5 B3.
Passeig del Born 2, C/Portaferrissa 25.
Tel 93 216 04 00. Tel 93 310 64 41.
Born. Map 5 A2.
Map 5 B3. M69 Custo
C/Rec 28. Map 5 C3. Tel 93 302 11 32.
Tel 93 319 66 42. Plaça de les Olles 7.
Tel 93 310 42 36.
Map 5 B3. La Manual
Hipòtesi www.m69barcelona.com
Tel 93 268 78 93. Alpargatera
Rambla de Pelleteria La
Desigual C/D’Avinyó 7,
Catalunya 105, Sibèria
C/Argenteria 65, Barri Gòtic.
Eixample. Rambla de Catalunya 15,
Eixample. Born. Map 5 A3.
Map 3 A3.
Map 3 A5. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 301 01 72.
Tel 93 215 02 98. Tel 93 317 05 83. Tel 93 310 30 15.
Muxart
Rafa Teja Yves Saint-Laurent Doshaburi Rambla de Catalunya 47.
Atelier Passeig de Gràcia 102. C/Lledó 4-6,
Map 3 A3. Map 3 A5.
C/Sta. Maria 18, Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 200 39 55. Map 2 F2. Tel 93 467 74 23.
Born.
Map 5 B3. Tel 93 319 96 29. Sombrereria
SECOND HAND
www.doshaburi.com
Tel 93 310 27 85. AND VINTAGE Obach
FASHION Mango Carrer del Call 2.
SPANISH AND
Passeig de Gràcia 65. Barri Gòtic.
INTERNATIONAL Lailo
DESIGNER LABELS Map 3 A4.
C/Riera Baixa 20, El Raval. Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 215 75 30.
Map 2 F2. Tel 93 318 40 94.
Carolina Herrera Tel 93 441 37 49. Massimo Dutti
Passeig de Gràcia 87, Passeig de Gràcia (corner Vialis
Mies & Felj
Eixample. Gran Via), Eixample. C/Vidreria 15.
C/Riera Baixa 4, El Raval.
Map 3 A3. Map 2 F2. Map 3 A5. Map 5 B3.
Tel 93 272 15 84. Tel 93 442 07 55. Tel 93 412 01 05. Tel 93 313 94 91.
160 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
Speciality Stores
Part of the fun of getting to know Barcelona is to traditional lavender to delicious
meander through the Old Town’s rabbit-warren-like chocolate. Natura is ideal for
streets, or to explore the wide boulevards of the cheap and chic presents such
Eixample. Both the areas have a wonderful choice of as groovy candy-striped socks,
duvet slippers, Chinese-style
stores selling traditional crafts and hand-made goods notepads and other Oriental
that in many places have been replaced by the toys and trinkets. For the
production line. The endless array of shops are a Don Juan in your life, La
dazzling sight in themselves and even if you are just Condonería (the condom
window-shopping, it’s well worth taking a proper look emporium) stocks all manner
around to see the merchandise on offer. of rubber delights in every
shape, size, colour and
ART AND ANTIQUES BOOKS, MUSIC, DVDS flavour imaginable. Cereria
AND STATIONERY Subirà is a gorgeous shop,
Antiques aficionados and and the city’s oldest, dating
collectors will be richly Barcelona is a wonderful city back to 1761. Today, it sells a
rewarded by what Barcelona for unearthing intriguing phenomenal array of deco-
has to offer. The equivalent of knick-knacks and unique, rative and votive candles in
an antiques shopping mall, one-of-a-kind gifts that numerous shapes and sizes,
Bulevard dels Antiquaris is people will treasure forever. including some several feet
home to over 70 shops Papirvm is an old fashioned tall for dramatic effect. El Rei
brimming over with relics stationery store, piled high de la Màgia is another
from the past. These can with beautiful fountain pens, golden-oldie, founded in
range from ancient coins and leather-bound and William 1881. It reveals a world of
alabaster statues to tin drums, Morris print notepads, and fairytale magic for budding
Regency-period candelabras even feather quills as well as magicians. Nearby, Arlequí
and assorted bric-a-brac. retro Boqueria waiters pads. Màscares creates traditional
Carrer del Call, the old Jewish Altaïr is arguably Spain’s hand-painted folk masks out
quarter in the Barri Gòtic, is finest specialist travel book- of papier-mâché, including
another hub for collectors shop stocking a stupendous Italian Commedia dell’arte
with plush shops, such as range of armchair reads, masks, glossy French party
L’Arca de l’Àvia, which sells maps, travel guides and masks, grotesque Catalan
antique lace and linens, old coffee-table books for anyone gigantes (giant heads used in
dolls and fine furniture, who lives and loves to move. local festivals), Greek tragedy
Heritage, a purveyor of semi- But if you’re just looking for and Japanese Noh masks.
precious stone jewellery, some holiday reading try the
antique silks and textiles and Casa del Llibre, Barcelona’s LINGERIE AND PERFUMES
the odd mink stole, and biggest bookstore for English
Gemma Povo for decorative language novels, magazines, The French chain Sephora
antique iron work. Also check travel guides, maps and stocks a wide selection of
out several shops belonging glossy coffee-table books. brand-name perfumes and
to Artur Ramon on Carrer de Thanks to the wide influence cosmetics, often cheaper than
la Palla (all bear his name) for of Barcelona’s annual those at the airport. La Galería
18th- and 19th-century electronic music festival, de Santa María Novella is the
glassware and ceramics and Sónar (see p163), the city has Barcelona outlet of the famous,
paintings dating back to the become a hot spot for music luxury apothecary in Florence,
14th century. Tandem collectors. Wah Wah Records which has produced artisan
specialises in a wonderful and El Raval in general are perfumes and colognes since
range of tawny, old globes. good for stocking up on the 1400. Customers are captivated
Barcelona’s oldest and most latest club tunes and old vinyl, by the scent of flowers, spices
prestigious art gallery is Sala while Herrera Guitars is a safe and fruits as they enter the
Parés, which exhibits serious bet for anyone in the market store. The shop also sells
Catalan artists, both past and for a hand-made classical cosmetics and herbal remedies.
present. For keepsake wall Spanish guitar. Commissions This kind of luxury does not
hangings that won’t break the are accepted. come cheap, however.
bank, try the Boutique Galería Le Boudoir is decked out
Picasso for prints, lithographs, UNUSUAL GIFTS AND like an 18th-century love nest
posters and postcards by the KNICK-KNACKS complete with brass bed,
great Spanish masters, Miró, gilded mirrors, velvet drapery
Picasso and Dalí. Espai Ras is El Born and the Barri Gòtic and love poetry inscribed on
a gallery space that houses are treasure troves, at once the walls. It is also the sexiest
architecture, contemporary delightful and inspiring. shop in Barcelona for lace
art, video installations and Sabater Hnos. Fábrica de and silk lingerie, nightgowns,
graphic design exhibitions. Jabones sells homemade fluffy mules and furry
There is also a comprehensive soaps, which come in all handcuffs as well as tasteful
bookshop to browse through. shapes and smells, from sex toys and aphrodisiacs.
S H O P P I N G I N B A R C E L O N A 161
For more conventional started Zara Home with four upper-class apartment, its
underwear, the quality Spanish basic styles in its collection: vast space is filled with
chain Women’s Secret goes in classic, ethnic, contemporary everything from French Le
for a funky line of candy- and white, all at very reason- Creuset cookware to Basque
coloured bra and pants sets, able prices. Wa Was, on the chiquito straight-edged
swimwear and hip pyjamas. other hand, is more quirky, tumblers, silk bean bags and
stocking neon-coloured lamps, futons. The old-fashioned
INTERIORS decorative objects and cook- clientele is more inclined
ing tools. They also sell towards Coses de Casa. This is
L’Appartement is an eclectic original postcards of Barcelona. a superb place for handmade
gallery and shop that exhibits Fans of gizmos and gadgets patchwork quilts, feminine
and sells furniture ranging from will enjoy Vinçon. This is the rosebud prints and Laura
funky lamps to cool folding mecca of Barcelona’s design Ashley-style floral designs
armchairs. The Zara brand stores. Housed in a 1900 for lovers of chintz.
DIRECTORY
ART AND Heritage Wah Wah Records LINGERIE AND
ANTIQUES C/Banys Nous 14, Barri Riera Baixa 14, PERFUMES
Gòtic. Map 5 A2. El Raval.
L’Arca de L’Àvia Le Boudoir
Tel 93 317 85 15. http://
C/Banys Nous 20, Map 2 F2. C/Canuda 21.
heritagebarcelona.com
Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 442 37 03. Map 5 A1.
Map 5 A2. Sala Parés Tel 93 302 52 81.
Tel 93 302 15 98. C/Petritxol 5, UNUSUAL GIFTS www.leboudoir.net
Barri Gòtic. AND KNICK-KNACKS
Artur Ramon La Galería de Santa
Map 5 A2.
Col. leccionisme María de Novella
C/Palla 23, Barri Gòtic.
Tel 93 318 70 20. Arlequí Màscares
C/Espasería 4. Map 5 B3.
Map 5 A2. Tandem C/ Princesa 7.
Tel 93 268 02 37.
Tel 93 302 59 70. C/Banys Nous 19, Map 5 B2.
Regia
Artur Ramon Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 268 27 52.
Passeig de Gràcia 39.
Antiquari Map 5 A2. www.arlequimask.com
Map 3 A2–A5.
C/Palla 25, Barri Gòtic. Tel 93 317 44 91.
Cereria Subirà Tel 93 216 01 21.
Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 302 59 70.
BOOKS, MUSIC, Baixada Llibreteria 7. Women’s Secret
DVDS AND Map 5 A2. C/Portaferrissa 7, Barri
Artur Ramon STATIONERY Gòtic. Map 5 A2.
Tel 93 315 26 06.
Mestres Antics Tel 93 318 92 42.
C/Palla 10, Barri Gòtic. Altaïr La Condonería
Map 5 A2. Gran Via 616, INTERIORS
Placa Sant Josep Oriol 7,
Tel 93 301 16 48. Eixample.
Barri Gòtic. L’Appartement
Tel 93 342 71 71.
Boutique Galería Map 5 A2. C/Enric Granados 44.
www.altair.es
Picasso Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 302 77 21.
Tapineria 10. Casa del Llibre Tel 93 452 29 04.
Map 5 B2. Passeig de Gràcia 62, Natura
Tel 93 310 49 57. Eixample. C/Argenteria 78,
Coses de Casa
Map 3 A4. Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 5,
Bulevard dels Born.
Tel 93 272 34 80. Barri Gòtic. Map 2 F2.
Antiquaris Map 5 B2. Tel 93 302 73 28.
Passeig de Gràcia. Herrera Guitars Tel 93 268 25 25.
Map 3 A2–A5. C/Marlet 6, Vinçon
Tel 93 215 44 99. Barri Gòtic. El Rei de la Màgia Passeig de Gràcia 96.
Map 5 A2. Carrer de la Princessa 11. Map 3 A3.
Espai Ras
Tel 93 302 66 66. Map 5 B2. Tel 93 215 60 50.
Doctor Dou 10.
Map 2 F2. www.herreraguitars.com Tel 93 319 39 20. Wa Was
Tel 93 412 71 99. Carders 14,
Papirvm Sabater Hnos.
www.rasbcn.com C/Baixada de la
Born. Map 5 B3.
Fábrica de Jabones Tel 93 319 79 92.
Gemma Povo Llibreteria 2,
Pl. Sant Felip Neri 1,
C/Banys Nous 5, Barri Gòtic. Zara Home
Map 5 A2. Barri Gòtic.
Barri Gòtic. Rambla de Catalunya 71.
Map 5 A2. Tel 93 310 52 42. Map 5 B2. Map 3 A4.
Tel 93 301 34 76. www.papirum-bcn.com Tel 93 301 98 32. Tel 93 487 49 72.
162 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
ENTERTAINMENT IN BARCELONA
B arcelona has one of the
most colourful and alter-
native live arts scenes in
Europe, offering a smörgasbord
of entertainment, from the gilded
there’s also much to see simply by
walking around. Street perform-
ance ranges from the human
statues on La Rambla to
excellent classical, ragtime and
Liceu opera house and the jazz buskers in the plazas. In
spectacular Modernista addition, there are a series of
masterpiece Palau de la weekend-long musical and arts
Música Catalana, to small fiestas that run throughout
independent theatres hosting the year, many of which now
obscure Catalan comedies Busker in the attract an international audience of
and dark Spanish dramas. But Barri Gòtic people from all over the world.
theatre and concert tickets is MUSIC
to buy them at the box office,
although tickets for many Barcelona’s Modernista Palau
theatres can also be bought de la Música Catalana (see
from branches of the Caixa p63) is one of the world’s
de Catalunya and La Caixa most beautiful concert halls,
savings banks, or from Servi with its stunning interior
Caixa machines. The Ticket decor and world-renowned
Ramblas central point in the acoustic. Also inspiring is
Virreina Palace (Rambla 99) the L’Auditori de Barcelona
also offers 50 per cent dis- (see p166), which gives the
counted theatre tickets from city two modern halls for
3 hours before the show. large-scale and chamber
Grec festival tickets are sold concerts. Its reputation was
at tourist offices. considerably bolstered
when it became the home
FILM AND THEATRE of the Orquestra Simfònica
The magnificent interior of the de Barcelona.
Palau de la Música Catalana The Mercat de les Flors The Liceu opera house,
(see p164) is an exciting known for operatic excellence,
ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES theatre which focusses on came back from a fire that
contemporary dance and destroyed the building in 1994
The most complete guide to theatre. The adjoining Teatre and has been operating at full
what’s going on each week in Lliure presents high-quality octave level ever since.
Barcelona is Guía del Ocio, productions of classic and Big names like David Byrne
out every Thursday. The Fri- modern plays in Catalan. and Paul McCartney have
day La Vanguardia also has a The new Teatre Nacional de performed at Razzmatazz
good entertainment supple- Catalunya (see p99), next to (see p166). Jazz venues
ment, Què Fem?, and there is the Auditori de Barcelona, include the Harlem Jazz Club
a weekly Catalan edition of is another fine showcase (see p166) and Jamboree
Time Out. for Catalan drama. The main (see p166), and salsa fans will
venue for classical ballet is enjoy a quick slink down to
SEASONS AND TICKETS the Liceu opera house. Antilla Barcelona.
DIRECTORY
FILM AND Palau de la Música Mirablau Classic als Parcs
THEATRE Catalana Plaça Doctor Andreu. Information Parcs i Jardins
Carrer de Sant Pere Mès Tel 93 418 58 79. Tel 010 (from Barcelona).
Liceu Alt s/n. Map 5 B1.
La Rambla 51–59. Map 2 Tel 90 244 28 82. Otto Zutz Festival del Sónar
F3. Tel 93 485 99 00. Carrer de Lincoln 15. Palau de la Virreina.
Teatre Lliure NIGHTLIFE Map 3 A1. www.sonar.es
Passeig de Santa Madrona, Tel 93 238 07 22. ServiCaixa
Apolo
40–46. Map 1 B3. Tel 90 233 22 11.
Carrer Nou de la Torres de Àvila
Tel 93 289 27 70. Rambla 113. Map 2 E3. www.servicaixa.com
Poble Espanyol, Avinguda
Teatre Nacional Tel 93 441 40 01. del Marqués de Comillas. Telentrada
de Catalunya www.sala-apolo.com Map 1 A1. Tel 90 210 12 12.
Plaça de les Arts 1. Map 4 Boadas Tel 93 424 93 09. www.telentrada.com
F5. Tel 93 306 57 00. Carrer dels Tallers 1.
El Xampanyet
Map 5 A1. AMUSEMENT PARK
MUSIC Tel 93 318 88 26. Carrer Montcada 22.
Map 5 B2. Tibidabo
L’Auditori de El Bosc de les Fades Tel 93 319 70 03. Tel 93 211 79 42.
Barcelona Pasatge de la Banca.
Carrer de Lepant 150. Map Tel 93 317 26 49.
FESTIVALS SPORTS
6 E1. Tel 93 247 93 00.
Elephant
Antilla Barcelona Passeig dels Til.lers 1, Grec Festival de FC Barcelona
Carrer de Aragó 141–143. Tibidabo. Barcelona Camp Nou, Avinguda
Tel 93 451 45 64. Tel 93 334 02 58. www.barcelonafestival. Aristides Maillol.
www.antillasalsa.com www.elephantbcn.com com Tel 93 496 36 00.
164 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
DIRECTORY
FILM IMAX Port Vell THEATRE AND Mercat de les Flors
Moll d’Espanya, Port Vell. DANCE C/de Lleida 59.
Casablanca Map 5 A4.
L’Antic Teatre Map 1 B2.
Passeig de Gràcia 115, Tel 93 225 11 11.
www.imaxportvell.com C/Verdaguer i Callís 12, Tel 93 426 18 75.
Eixample.
La Ribera. Map 5 A1. www.mercatflors.org
Map 3 A3. Méliès
C/Villarroel 102, Tel 93 315 23 54.
Tel 93 218 43 45. Teatre Apolo
Eixample. Map 2 E1. www.lanticteatre.com
CCCB Av del Paral.lel 59.
Tel 93 451 00 51. Antilla BCN
C/Montalegre 5. Map 1 B1.
Piscina Bernat Latin Club
Map 2 F2. Picornell Tel 93 441 90 07.
C/Aragó 141, Eixample.
Tel 93 306 41 00. Av. de l’Estadi 30–38. Map 3 A4. Tel 93 451 45 Teatre Nacional
www.cccb.org Map 1 A3. 64. www.antillasalsa.com
Tel 93 423 40 41. de Catalunya (TNC)
Festival www.picornell.cat Buenavista Plaça de les Arts 1.
Internacional Salsa Club Map 6 F1.
Renoir
de Cinema de C/Roselló 217, Eixample.
Floridablanca Tel 93 306 57 00.
Catalunya C/Floridablanca 135,
Map 3 A3.
www.tnc.cat
Sitges. Eixample. Tel 93 237 65 28.
Tel 938 94 99 90. Map 1 C1. www.salsabuenavista.com Teatre Poliorama
www.cinemasitges.com Tel 93 426 33 37. La Rambla 115, Barri
Gran Teatre del
www.cinesrenoir.com
Filmoteca de la Liceu (Opera House) Gòtic. Map 5 A1.
Urgel La Rambla 51–59. Tel 93 317 75 99.
Generalitat de
Comte d’Urgell 29. Map 5 A1.
Catalunya www.teatrepoliorama.com
Map 2 E1. Tel 93 485 99 00.
Avda Sarrià 31–33, Tel 90 242 42 43. www.liceubarcelona.com Teatre Tívoli
Eixample.
Verdi C/Casp 10–12, Eixample.
Tel 93 410 75 90. Llantiol
C/Verdi 32,
C/Riereta 7, El Raval. Map 3 B5.
Gràcia.
Icària Yelmo Map 2 E2. Tel 93 412 20 63.
Map 3 B1.
Cineplex Tel 93 238 79 90. Tel 93 329 90 09.
C/Salvador Espriu 61, www.llantiol.com
Teatre Victòria
www.cines-verdi.com
vila Olímpica. Av del Paral.lel 67–69.
Verdi Park Los Tarantos
Map 6 E4. Map 1 B1.
C/Torrijos 49, Gràcia. Plaça Reial 17.
Tel 93 221 75 85. Map 3 C2. Tel 93 329 91 89.
Map 5 A3.
www.yelmocineplex.es Tel 93 238 79 90. Tel 93 319 17 89. www.teatrevictoria.com
166 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
Music
Few cities in the world can match the eclectic range of on Plaça Reial, attracts a
Barcelona’s music scene. Stunning world-class venues number of jazz heavyweights
such as Palau de la Música and L’Auditori de Barcelona as well as more experimental
play host to mega-stars, while smaller jazz rooms outfits and solo artists such as
the saxophonist Billy McHenry.
attract smouldering songsters. Then there are also the Another good bet is the JazzSí
underground dives for the best in experimental elec- Club Taller de Músics, a more
tronica as well as the dusty, dimly-lit flamenco folk obscure destination but much
clubs. Traditional Catalan music and dancing (sardanes) beloved by aficionados of the
can be heard in the Cathedral square most weekends. genre. It doubles up as a jam
session space for students
OPERA AND CLASSICAL here regularly. Both of these from the nearby music school.
MUSIC venues can be visited on day- The famous Cova del Drac
time guided tours, but book- closed down in 2004 and
Opera and classical music ing tickets for a production is reopened a couple of years
are beloved by Catalans the best way to experience later as the Jazz Room. It
who lap it up with near the atmosphere. functions largely as a dance
religious reverence. Indeed, Modern, but no less club but there are usually a
many of the great artists of important as a shrine to the couple of live gigs every
the 20th century were locals, Catalan arts scene, L’Auditori month. Heligogàbal, a small
including the cellist Pablo de Barcelona was built to underground bar in Gràcia,
Casals and opera singers José accommodate growing also hosts jazz concerts.
Carreras and Montserrat demand for better facilities Concerts are generally free,
Caballé, who performed and to attract ever greater or very cheap. The Harlem
Barcelona, the dramatic numbers of world class Jazz Club is narrow, crowded
operatic duet with the late musicians. It began primarily and smoky but it’s one of the
Freddy Mercury. as a place for classical city’s longest surviving clubs
The city is also home to concerts and orchestral for alternative and lesser-
some of the most spectacular recitals, but has since begun known jazz troupes. Little
venues in the world, includ- to embrace giants of jazz, Italy is a boon for those who
ing the glamorous, gilded pop and rock. It is also worth like the tinkle of the piano
Gran Teatre del Liceu, which keeping your eyes peeled for keyboard and the soft pluck
first opened its doors in regular choral music being of the double bass. Enjoy an
1847. The opera house has performed at the city’s eclectic mix of blues, jazz and
been a continuing beacon churches and cathedrals, bossa nova over dinner on
of Catalan arts for more than most notably the Iglesia Santa Wednesdays and Thursdays.
a century and a half, with a Maria del Pi, the main The most formal of the jazz
rich and dramatic history of cathedral on Plaça del Pi, venues, however, is
fire and bomb attacks. It and the Iglesia Santa Maria Barcelona’s “free” theatre –
burned down for the third del Mar, particularly around the Teatre Lliure in Montjuïc
time in 1994, but careful Christmas time and Easter. is an excellent source for
renovations have restored contemporary jazz masters,
it to its former glory. Despite LIVE MUSIC: ROCK, JAZZ modern orchestras and
its misfortunes, it has sus- AND BLUES experimental grooves, playing
tained a stellar line-up of host to a diverse number of
the greatest composers in In terms of popular music musicians from Eric Mingus to
the world, among them Barcelona may not have The Sun Ra Arkestra directed
Puccini, Tchaikovsky and the endless clubs, pubs, by Marshall Allen. For lovers
Diaghilev’s Russian Ballets, stadiums and music empori- of the genre, this is the best
as well as Catalan composers ums that make London the of the lot.
such as Pedrell, Vives and best place on the planet for One of the two major
Enric Granados. live music, but it doesn’t do players for pop and rock
The whimsical fancy of the too badly considering its maestros is Bikini, Barcelona’s
Palau de la Música is another size. The city attracts a star- very own Studio 54 – in fact,
of Barcelona’s architectural studded cast that range from it opened in 1953, preceding
triumphs. A jewel-bright pop stars such as Kylie the New York icon by a year.
vision by the Modernista Minogue and Madonna to This veteran of the scene,
master Lluís Domènech i contemporary jazz prodigies which opens from midnight
Montaner, this sublime such as the Brad Mehldau onwards, is still going strong
concert hall has a dedicated Quartet, hip-hoppers, rappers with a robust line-up of big
public, and performers who and world groove mixers, name bands and a cocktail
vie to play here. The Palau is country and good old- of different club nights.
the main venue for the city’s fashioned rock and roll. The other, Razzmatazz,
jazz and guitar festivals and Barcelona still has a clutch arguably the city’s most
national and international of tiny, intimate venues. important live music venue,
symphony orchestras perform Jamboree, a cellar-like venue plays host to the likes of
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 167
Róisín Murphy, Arctic If your taste is for the small Andalucian dishes in the
Monkeys, Air and Jarvis and subtle, the Bar Pastis is a Poble Espanyol. The venue
Cocker. Club sessions go miniscule bar, decorated with is named after Carmen
until dawn in Lolita, The dusty bottles and yellowing Amaya, a famous dancer
Loft and three other clubs posters from French musicals. who performed for King
next door. The Loft is a Live French love ballads, tango Alfonso XIII in 1929, in the
trendy club that also holds and coplas can be heard here very spot where it now
rock and jazz concerts most nights of the week. stands. Various dinner/show
several nights a week. packages are available.
For a touch of unbeatable FLAMENCO For a less formal ambience,
glam Luz de Gas is a glitzy Los Tarantos, situated in the
ballroom that oozes old- Although flamenco is Plaça Reial, is a lively
fashioned atmosphere traditionally an Andalusian atmospheric nightspot with
with its lamp-lit tables, artform, originally created by live flamenco and Latin
chandeliers and a list of the gypsies of Southern Spain music every night of the
bands and shows that enjoyed to depict their sufferings and week. Although it caters
their heyday in the 1970s and hardship, it has for many to the tourist trade, the
‘80s. The biggest international years been a popular form performances are very
stars – including Eric Clapton, of entertainment in Barcelona reasonably priced.
Madonna, Beyoncé and and throughout Spain. One JazzSí Club Taller de Músics
Coldplay – take over the of the best places to see a (see p166) offers traditional
huge arenas on Montjuïc, live show is El Tablao de flamenco concerts on Fridays,
the Estadi Olímpic and the Carmen, a stylish restaurant often accompanied by well-
Palau Sant Jordi (see p89). serving both Catalan and known guest musicians.
DIRECTORY
OPERA AND Bikini JazzSí Club Taller de FLAMENCO
CLASSICAL
MUSIC Deu I Mata 105, Músics El Tablao de
Les Corts. C/Requesens 2, Carmen
L’Auditori de
Tel 93 322 08 00. El Raval. Arcs, 9.
Barcelona
www.bikinibcn.com Tel 93 329 00 20. Poble Espanyol.
C/Lepant 150, Eixample.
www.tallerdemusics.com Map 1 B1.
Map 4 E1. Harlem Jazz
Tel 933 25 68 95.
Tel 93 247 93 00.
Club Little Italy
www.auditori.com www.tablaodecarmen.
C/Comtessa de C/Rec 30,
com
Gran Teatre Sobradiel 8, Born.
del Liceu Los Tarantos
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 C3.
La Rambla 51, Plaça Reial 17.
Tel 93 310 07 55. Tel 93 319 79 73.
Barri Gòtic. Map 5 A3.
Map 5 A1. www.harlemjazzclub.es Luz de Gas Tel 933 19 17 89.
Tel 93 485 99 00. C/Muntaner 246,
Heliogàbal
www.liceubarcelona.com Eixample. CONCERT VENUES
Ramón y Cajal 80,
Palau de la Música Map 2 F1.
Gràcia. L’Auditori
Catalana Tel 93 209 77 11.
C/Lepant 150.
Map 3 C2.
C/Sant Pere Més Alt s/n, www.luzdegas.com
www.heliogabal.com Tel 93 247 93 00.
La Ribera.
Razzmatazz www.auditori.com
Map 5 B1. Jamboree
C/Pamplona 88, Espai Lliure
Tel 902 442 882.
Plaça Reial 17,
www.palaumusica.org Poblenou. Plaça Margarida Xirgu 1,
Barri Gòtic.
Map 4 F5. Montjuïc.
LIVE MUSIC: Map 5 A3.
Tel 93 320 82 00. Tel 93 289 27 70.
ROCK, JAZZ
Tel 93 319 17 89. www.salarazzmatazz.
AND BLUES Sala Fabià
www.masimas.com com
Bar Pastis Puigserver
Jazz Room Teatre Lliure Passeig Santa Madrona
C/Santa Mònica 4,
C/Vallmajor 33. Plaça Margarida Xirgu 1, 40-46, Montjuïc.
El Raval. Map 2 F4.
Tel 93 318 79 80. Tel 93 319 17 89. Tel 93 289 27 70. Map 1 B3.
www.barpastis.com www.masimas.com www.teatrelliure.com Tel 93 289 27 70.
168 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
Nightlife
If New York is the city that never sleeps, then Barcelona PORT VELL AND PORT
is the one that never goes to bed and those with energy OLÍMPIC
can party around the clock, all week. It has one of the
most varied scenes, with something for everybody. Old- Beach parties aside, this area
continues to be a hub for
fashioned dance halls rub shoulders with underground creatures of the night. The
drum and bass clubs and trashy techno discos, and club- Port Olìmpic itself is nothing
goers are either glammed-up or grunged-out. Each but bars and boats, while the
barrio (neighbourhood) offers a different flavour. leisure and shopping complex
Maremagnum has a clutch of
NIGHTLIFE Fantástico Club. Pop and elegant clubs. Under the
electro music combined with Hotel Arts, Catwalk is still one
In the summer the beaches candy-coloured decor make of the only places in the city
become party havens when this club a hit with the fashion- for hip hop and R’n’B.
the xiringuitos (beach bars) able crowd. Underground and C.D.L.C. and nearby restaurant
spring back into life. Wander cosmopolitan are words that and lounge bar Shôko, in
from Platja de Sant Sebastià in best describe the atmosphere front of the Hotel Arts, how-
Barceloneta, all the way to and clientele of Club Fellini, ever, still manage to draw the
Bogatell (a few kilometres where eccentricity merges celebrities staying nearby.
beyond the Hotel Arts) and into the freakishly original.
you’ll find people dancing It has three rooms with EIXAMPLE
barefoot on the sand to the different music and decor
tune of Barcelona’s innu- in each. The nightclub One of the city’s best loved
merable DJs. Way uptown New York, in contrast, discos, City Hall is a multiple
(above the Diagonal), the has come over all loungey space and terrace, where you
city’s most glamorous terraces and these days is inclined can pick and choose your
morph into social hubs while towards more commercially groove according to your
the Barri Gòtic – lively at the gratifying tunes. The vibe mood. It has different themes
best of times – becomes one here is more disco. every night from Saturday
massive street party through- night-fever discos to Sunday
out the summer. If you want EL RAVAL chill-outs. Buda Barcelona is
to hang with the locals, the quite literally oozing with
demolition of some of El Designer clubs proliferate in glitz and glamour, beloved
Raval’s less salubrious streets Barcelona these days, but by models and their
has meant that the neighbour- check out the old-school entourages. It is a place
hood has become much ambience of Marsella, where anything goes, from
safer and easier to move founded in 1820 and still dancing on the bar tops to
about. The underground famous for its wicked green dancing with your top off. For
vibe, however, remains absinthe (absenta). The likes a more understated type of
steadfastly intact with tiny of Picasso, Hemingway and glamour, Opium is housed
hole-in-the-wall-style bars Miró are said to have drunk in a converted cinema and
where folks drink and boogie here and the 19th-century- therefore bags the title for
till the early hours. Similarly, styled interior, with marble the best projections in town.
Gràcia has a bohemian, tables, chandeliers and Dow Jones has a unique
studenty ambience. If it’s an battered old mirrors evokes “Stock Exchange” system for
alternative scene you seek a bygone era. With its red, setting the prices of drinks,
Poble Sec has a handful of black and white decor and a which rise and fall with
“ring-to-enter” joints and the specially-designed underlit demand. For sports fans they
city’s only serious drum and bar, Zentraus is one of the also offer Sky coverage.
bass club, Plataforma. The best looking clubs in the
city also has a thriving and neighbourhood. Doubling up POBLE SEC
friendly gay scene, most as a restaurant until midnight
notably within the Eixample or so, the tables are cleared The most alternative night-
Esquerra, also known as the away once the DJ sessions life has come to roost in
Gay Eixample, boasting get underway. For the more the “dry village,” though in
numerous late-night drinking adventurous, Moog is more name only. The bars are wet
holes, discothèques, saunas extreme with blaring, heart- and the music is happening.
and cabarets. pumping techno for Apolo is another old-
aficionados of the genre. The fashioned music hall, though
BARRI GÒTIC stark industrial interior gives it it attracts a more independent
the character of a New York breed of DJ and performer.
The Plaça Reial is overrun nightclub in the mid-1990s. Expect anything here, from
with tourists banging on tin Likewise, the state-of-the-art soulful gypsy folk singers
drums and whooping it up, sound system ensures a from Marseille, to the
but if you’re looking for more thumping, ear-bleedingly legendary purveyor of
grown-up fun, check out the good night out. deep funk, Keb Darge.
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N B A R C E L O N A 169
Further into the village, delight a 20-something crowd takes its name from the
Mau Mau is an alternative with 1970s sessions of north- giant terrace it occupies.
club and cultural centre with ern soul and Motown. And Nearby, on Plaça Espanya,
a firm eye on what’s new and high up above the rest, the Ibiza-style Discothèque
happening. This could mean Elephant offers the best in is extremely popular. Don’t
local DJs, Japanese musicians mansion-house clubbing even think about getting in
such as the cultish Cinema experiences, with chill-out without an appropriately
Dub Monks, alternative lounges, two dance floors, a glamorous outfit, and
cinema, and multimedia art VIP area, sprawling terraces remember, less is most
installations. If it’s of the here and prices to suit the altitude. definitely more.
and now, chances are Mau Further out of town you
Mau’s on it. For the seriously OUT OF TOWN will find Oshum, the most
hardcore and lovers of high- sophisticated and innovative
speed garage, Plataforma is The mega-clubs are located night club in the area. It also
Barcelona’s only serious drum well away from the city houses a restaurant and a
and bass club, hosting DJs centre and from anyone lounge terrace, with an
from far and wide in a huge trying to sleep, and most exquisite design. It tries to
concrete warehouse. of them are only open on reproduce the Ibiza spirit.
Friday and Saturday nights. Alternatively, Liquid is the
GRÀCIA AND TIBIDABO The big boys are based in city’s only summer club
Poble Espanyol, where folks with a swimming pool.
Tiny and always packed, the can party until the sunrise. The only drawback is that
Mond Bar attracts music- La Terrrazza, is only open should you wish to leave
lovers from all over wishing in the summer, but is well- before the party’s over,
to dip into tunes from the known for its all-night rave finding a taxi back into
past. The resident DJs parties under the stars, and town can be a big problem.
DIRECTORY
BARRI GÒTIC PORT VELL Opium Mond Bar
AND PORT C/Paris 193, Eixample. Plaza del Sol 21, Gràcia.
Club Fellini OLÌMPIC Tel 93 414 63 62. www.
La Rambla 27, Map 3 B1.
grupocostaeste.com
Barri Gòtic. Catwalk
Tel 93 272 09 10.
Map 2 F3. Ramon Trias Fargas 2–4,
Tel 93 272 49 80. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4.
POBLE SEC
www.clubfellini.com Tel 93 224 07 40. OUT OF TOWN
Apolo
Fantástico Club www.clubcatwalk.net
C/Nou de la Rambla 113, Discothèque
Passatge Escudellers 3, C.D.L.C. Poble Sec.
Barri Gòtic. Passeig Marítim 32, C/Tarragona 141–147.
Map 2 D4.
Map 5 A3. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4. Tel 90 202 38 65.
Tel 93 441 40 01.
Tel 93 317 54 11. Tel 93 224 04 70.
www.sala-apolo.com www.discotheque.info
New York www.cdlcbarcelona.com
C/Escudellers 5, Mau Mau La Terrrazza
Shôko
Barri Gòtic. Passeig Marítim 36, C/Fontrodona 33,
Poble Espanyol, Avda
Map 5 A3. Port Olìmpic. Map 6 E4. Poble Sec.
Tel 93 318 87 30. Map 2 D3. Marquès de Comillas.
Tel 93 225 92 00.
www.shoko.biz Tel 93 441 80 15. Map 1 B1.
EL RAVAL
www. Tel 93 272 49 80.
Marsella EIXAMPLE maumaunderground.com
http://laterrrazza.com
C/Sant Pau 65
Buda Barcelona Plataforma
El Raval.
C/Pau Claris 92, Eixample. C/Nou de la Rambla 145, Liquid
Map 2 F3.
Map 3 B3. Tel 93 318 42
Tel 93 442 72 63. Poble Sec. Complex Esportiu
52. www.buda
Moog Map 2 D4. Hospitalet Nord, Av.
restaurante.com
C/Arc del Teatre 3, Tel 93 329 00 29.
City Hall Manuel Azaña, Hospitalet.
El Raval. Map 2 F4.
Tel 93 319 17 89. Rambla Catalunya 2–4, GRÀCIA AND www.liquidbcn.com
www.masimas.com Eixample. Map 3 A3. TIBIDABO
Tel 93 317 21 77. Oshum
Zentraus www.ottozutz.es Elephant Av. Doctor
Rambla de Raval 41,
Dow Jones Passeig dels Til.lers 1,
El Raval. Marañón 17.
Map 2 F3. Bruc 97, Eixample. Tibidabo.
Tel 93 203 75 46. Tel 93 118 86 01.
Tel 93 443 80 78. Map 3 B4.
www.zentraus.com Tel 93 207 60 45. www.elephantbcn.com www.oshumclub.com
170 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
Sports and Outdoor Activities The best times to visit are early
morning and evening. The
From the mountains to the sea, Catalonia provides all Pyrenees are home to many
manner of terrain for enjoying the outdoor life. The hot raptors, including short-toed,
summer months can be filled with water activities, from golden and Bonelli eagles, and
fishing to white-water rafting, while skiers head for the Egyptian, griffon and bearded
hills with the first snowfalls of winter. Nature lovers will vultures. The Parc Natural del
Cadí-Moixeró (see p114), in
find spectacular wildlife habitats, while Barcelona city the foothills of the Pyrenees,
offers beaches and numerous sports facilities. has a visitor centre in Bagà.
Look out for alpine choughs,
CITY FACILITIES AIRBORNE ACTIVITIES wallcreepers and peregrine
falcons, as well as black wood-
Barcelona has around 30 Catalonia has several small peckers in the wooded areas.
municipal pools (piscines airports where planes can
municipales), including the be hired and parachute
Piscines Bernat Picornell next jumps made. One of the
to the Estadi Olímpic and best known flying clubs is
Palau Sant Jordi sports stadia Aeroclub in Sabadell. Parag-
on Montjuïc. The pools were liding is popular from any
the venue for the 1992 high spot and Esports 10
Olympic swimming events. offers all kinds of adventure
The Estadi Olímpic is an ath- sports, including bungee
letics stadium and is often jumping and ballooning, as
used for concerts. The Palau an exciting alternative way to
Sant Jordi is used for indoor see the sights.
sports, as well as musical and
recreational activities. Tennis BIRD WATCHING
fans are well provided for
and the Centre Municipal Bird life in Catalonia
de Tennis Vall d’Hebron is a huge attraction for
caters for younger dedicated bird-watchers. An angler’s paradise – fishing for
players too. Ice-skating Northern European trout amid spectacular scenery
can be fun and the visitors in particular will
Pista de Gel del FC be thrilled by the sight FIELD SPORTS
Barcelona offers skate of hoopoes, bee-eaters,
rental and runs an ice golden orioles and Sea fishing is free, but a
hockey school. Golf Griffon vulture pratincoles. Two major permit (un permís) is required
courses within easy wetland areas, where for river fishing. Permits can
reach of Barcelona are Golf migratory birds include flam- usually be obtained through
Sant Cugat and Golf El Prat. ingoes, are Delta de l’Ebre (see local tourist offices.
There are several riding p129), south of Tarragona, The Noguera Pallaresa and
stables, and the Escola Hípica with a visitor centre in Del- Segre are fine trout fishing
at Sant Cugat allows day tebre, and Aiguamolls de rivers and the season runs
outings over the Collserola l’Empordà around Sant Pere from mid-March to the end of
hills. Cycle shops hire by the Pescador in the Bay of Roses. August. The game-hunting
hour, half day and full day. Both are easy to get to, and season is generally from
Bike Tours Barcelona organizes their visitor centres supply October to March. Short leases
cycle tours around Barcelona. binoculars and guide services. and permits can be obtained
from the Federació Catalana
de Caça in Barcelona or from
a local hunting association
(associació de caça). Travel
agents specializing in hunting
and fishing breaks will also
readily organize licences.
HIKING
DIRECTORY
Aeroclub de Sabadell
Tel 93 710 19 52.
www.aeroclub.es
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
Tel 972 45 42 22.
www.aiguamolls.org
ACEM
Tel 93 416 01 94.
www.catneu.net
Bike Tours Barcelona
Tel 93 268 21 05.
www.bicicletabarcelona.com
Centre Excursionista
de Catalunya
Shooting the rapids on the white waters of the Noguera Pallaresa Tel 93 315 23 11.
www.cec.cat
possibilities in the Parc spot for scuba diving. The Centre Municipal de
Nacional d’Aigüestortes (see best place is around the Tennis Vall d’Hebron
p113) and the Pyrenees are protected Illes Medes (see Tel 93 427 65 00.
particularly good, with moun- p121), from the resort of Centre Municipal de
tain refuges (see p133) for L’Estartit. There are also diving Vela Port Olímpic
serious hikers. Walkers can schools around Cadaqués and Tel 93 225 79 40.
obtain information from the Cap Begur, notably at Calella www.velabarcelona.com
Centre Excursionista de Cat- de Palafrugell, launching
Delta de l’Ebre
alunya (see p133). The Llibreria point for the Illes Ullastres.
Tel 977 48 21 81.
Quera, in Carrer de Petritxol The town of Sort on the
(No. 2) in Barcelona’s Barri Riu Noguera Pallaresa is a Escola Hípica
Gòtic, is the best bookshop for Tel 93 674 83 85.
centre for exciting water
www.hipicasantcugat.es
maps and guide books. sports such as white-water
All the usual rules apply to rafting, canoeing, kayaking Estadi Olímpic/Palau
those setting off to explore the and cave diving. Bookings Sant Jordi
wilderness – check weather for these and other adventure Tel 93 426 20 89.
forecasts, wear appropriate activities can be made Esports 10
clothing, take adequate through Yetiemotions. Tel 90 233 31 10.
provisions and let someone www.esports10.com
know where you are going. WINTER SPORTS Federació Catalana de
Caça
WATER SPORTS The Pyrenees offer great Tel 93 268 23 07.
winter skiing just two or three www.federcat.com
There are around 40 marinas hours’ drive from Barcelona Golf El Prat
along Catalonia’s 580 km and at weekends the resorts Tel 93 728 1000.
(360 miles) of coast, and a fill up with city crowds. There www.rcgep.com
very wide range of watersports are some 20 ski areas. La Golf Sant Cugat
and activities is available. In Molina is good for beginners Tel 93 674 39 08.
Barcelona itself, the Centre and Baqueira-Beret (see p113) www.golfsantcugat.com
Municipal de Vela Port Olímpic is where Spain’s royal family Llibreria Quera
gives sailing lessons and has a skis. Puigcerdà (see p114) in Tel 93 318 07 43.
variety of craft. The Costa the Cerdanya is a good base
Parc Nacional
Brava has long been a good for downhill and nordic skiing d’Aigüestortes
within reach of 15 ski Tel 973 62 40 36.
stations in Catalonia,
Andorra and France. Parc Natural del
The Associació Cata- Cadí-Moixeró
Tel 93 824 41 51.
lana d’Estacions
d’Esquí i Activitats de Piscines Bernat Picornell
Muntanya (ACEM) Tel 93 423 40 41.
supplies resort details, www.picornell.cat
while Teletiempo, a Pista de Gel del
weather hotline, pro- FC Barcelona
vides information on Tel 93 496 36 30.
current weather con- Teletiempo
ditions. In Barcelona, Tel 807 17 03 65 (Spain).
a dry ski slope has Yetiemotions
been installed beside Tel 97 362 22 01.
Skiing at one of the many ski stations in the the Piscines Bernat www.yetiemotions.com
Pyrenees within easy reach of Barcelona Picornell on Montjuïc.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
C atalonia has an excellent
tourist infrastructure and
offers visitors a wealth of
options, from soaking in the sun
on a sandy beach to hiking on a
activities. Larger offices usually
have leaflets in several different
languages. Be aware that August
is Spain’s main vacation month,
and many businesses close for
remote mountain trail. There are the whole month. Try to find out
tourist offices in every town, in advance if your visit coincides
which can assist in finding Sign for a with local festes (fiestas), as these
accommodation, restaurants and tourist office can entail widespread closures.
Euro Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven denomi-
nations. The €5 note (grey in col-
our) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple).
5 euros
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The Euro has eight coin denominations: €1
and €2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents,
2 cents and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are
both silver and gold in colour. The 50-, 20-
and 10-cent coins are gold. The 5-, 2- and
1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
180 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
three price bands: Spain, centres, museums, sports clubs and the Financial Times.
Europe and the rest of the and libraries. A full list of muni- Others can be found a day
world. Parcels must be cipal hotspots can be found after publication. The European
weighed and stamped by on the local government web- newspaper and weekly news
Correos and must be securely site. Internet cafés are mainly magazines such as Time,
tied with string, or a charge based in the city centre and Newsweek and The Economist
may be made at the counter nearly all hotels have a com- are readily available. Catalonia
to have them sealed by a puter, or computers, for guests Today, a monthly newspaper
clerk. Smaller packages, like to send emails. Phone centres in English, is available at cen-
books, can be sent through (locutorios) also offer Internet tral kiosks and newsstands.
the yellow post boxes with access at a cheaper rate. The main Catalan-language
stamps bought from the newspapers are Avui and
estanc after weighing. TELEVISION AND RADIO El Periódico. La Vanguardia,
Main Correos offices open in Spanish, is published in
from 8:30am to 8:30pm Catalans have Barcelona and is widely
Monday to Friday and from a choice of respected. The Spanish
9:30am to 2pm on Saturday. watching TV3 newspapers El País,
Branches in the suburbs and in Catalan run El Mundo and ABC
in villages open from 9am to by the regional are also reliable.
2pm Monday to Friday and government, or Barcelona’s best
from 9:30am to 1pm TVE1 and weekly listings maga-
on Saturday. TVE2, Spain’s TV3 television zine in Spanish is Guía
two state television station logo del Ocio. The monthly
ADDRESSES channels. There is a Metropolitan and BCN
Catalan channel, Canal 33, Week (every two months) are
In Catalan addresses the street and five main Spanish published in English and
name is written first, followed independents: Antena 3, Tele- found in pubs, cinemas and
by the building number, the 5, Canal+ (Canal Plus), Cuatro bars. Also available is the
floor number, and the number and La Sexta. A regular foreign Catalan-language Time Out.
or letter of the apartment. For language news service
example, C/ Mir 7, 5è-A means is provided by
apartment A on floor 5 of Barcelona Televisio
building number 7 in Carrer (BTV). Most foreign
Mir. Carrer is often shortened films on television
to C/. Floor designations are: (and in cinemas) are
Baixos (ground floor), Entresol, dubbed. Subtitled
Principal, 1r, 2n and so on, films are listed as V.O.
meaning that 2n is in fact the (versión original).
4th level above the ground. There are a number
Some newer buildings use the of good cinemas in
less complicated designation Barcelona that show
of Baixos followed by 1r, 2n their films exclusively A newsstand on La Rambla in Barcelona
and so on upwards. The post- in V.O. Satellite chan-
codes have five digits; the first nels such as CNN, Cinemanía DIRECTORY
two are the province number. and Eurosport and many
other European channels are POST OFFICES
commonly provided in hotels.
The main radio stations are Central Post Office
Catalunya Ràdio (102.8FM) Plaça Antonio López s/n.
and COM Ràdio (100.4FM),
the Spanish state Radio Map 5 B3. Tel 934 868050.
Nacional de España (738FM),
and the independent stations INTERNET CAFES AND
Radio 2 (93.0FM), broadcasting OFFICE CENTRES
classical music, and Ser
Sign for an Internet hotspot (96.9FM), a Spanish general- Ciber Virreina
interest station.
c/ Asturies 78 (Gracia).
INTERNET AND EMAIL
NEWSPAPERS AND Map 3 B1. Tel 93 368 5770.
All hotels, airports and many MAGAZINES
bars in the centre have Internet Work Centers
hotspots, although often they Some newsagents and kiosks Ronda Universitat 13.
will charge you a small fee for in the city centre stock peri- Map 2 F1. Tel 93 481 41 48.
access and you will usually odicals in English. Newspa-
need to ask for a password. pers in English available on Roger de Lluria 2.
Barcelona has a free, non-user the day of publication are the Map 5 B1. Tel 93 390 83 54.
registration Wi-Fi service with International Herald Tribune, www.workcenter.es
185 municipal hotspots in civic the Guardian International
182 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
TRAVEL INFORMATION
C atalonia’s three main airports – El region’s major towns. Barcelona has a
Prat, Girona and Reus – receive well-developed ringroad (ronda) system,
international flights
from all over the globe.
While Barcelona’s El Prat
and a tunnel through the
Collserola Hills brings the
inland highways right into
mainly handles scheduled the city. Both its Metro and
services, Girona and Reus suburban train links are
deal with package holiday Spain’s national airline good, and most rural areas
flights. Rail networks and toll highways are served by intermittent bus services.
radiate from Barcelona to serve the For remote areas, a car may be required.
has some rental companies on TICKETS AND FARES transatlantic cruises between
site and cars can be delivered the US and Barcelona, as well
to Reus from nearby Tarragona. Air fares to Barcelona and the as cruises around the Medi-
There will also be local firms coastal resorts vary through terranean. Costa Cruises offers
offering tempting deals, but the year, depending on Mediterranean cruises starting
check the small print carefully. demand. They are generally in Barcelona, while Thomson
highest during the summer Cruises, in the UK, has cruises
GETTING TO BARCELONA months. Special deals, particu- calling at Barcelona, but start-
larly for weekend city breaks, ing out from Mallorca.
Barcelona airport is only 16 km are often available in the winter
(10 miles) away from the city. and may include a number of TRAVEL TO THE
There is a regular bus service nights at a hotel. Christmas and BALEARIC ISLANDS
to the city centre from both Easter flights are almost always
terminals, operating from 6am booked up well in advance. Barcelona is the main city on
until 1:05am and costing about Charter flights from the UK the Spanish mainland from
€5. It takes 25–30 mins from to Girona and Reus can be which to reach the Balearic
T2 and 35 mins from T1. The very cheap, but tend to be Islands. Flights are run by
final stop is in Plaça Catalunya, less reliable, and often fly at Iberia, Air Europa, Spanair
but there are also stops in Plaça unsociable hours. and Vueling. Balearia runs a
Espanya and along Gran Vía. Good deals can be found hydrofoil (a kind of catama-
The cheapest way to get to online to fly to Barcelona ran) service to Ibiza, which
the city is by train. There is a from other cities in Spain takes 8 hours. It also goes to
train every 20 minutes. A shut- through Vueling, Air Europa, Majorca, taking 7 hours, and
tle bus will take you to the air- Spanair or Iberia. Menorca, taking 4 hours. They
port train station from T1 and also offer car ferry crossings,
it is a 10-minute walk across SEA TRAVEL which take about 8 hours, by
the pedestrian flyover from T2. Acciona Trasmediterránea to
The city centre train stops are The Grimaldi Group has a ferry Ibiza, Majorca and Menorca. To
at Passeig de Gràcia and Sants. service between Civitavecchia travel to Formentera you need
There are plenty of taxis (near Rome) or Livorno (near to take a ferry service from
available from outside of both Florence) and Barcelona. Ibiza. It is wise to book in
terminals – join the queue at Atlas Cruises and Tours offers advance, especially in summer.
the taxi rank. Taxis to central
Barcelona are metered cost
between €20 and €30, depend-
ing on traffic, the time of day
and which terminal you are
using. There is a small supp-
lement added for journeys to
and from the airport and for
each piece of luggage.
A new Metro line, L-9,
which is due to open in 2014,
will run from Plaça Catalunya
to both airport terminals. Balearia car ferry to the Balearic Islands
DIRECTORY
AIRPORTS United Airlines Spanair Thomson Cruises
www.united.com Tel 902 13 14 15 (Spain). Tel 0871 230 2800 (UK).
Barcelona El Prat www.spanair.com www.thomson.co.uk/
Tel 902 40 47 04. Delta Air Lines
Tel 900 80 07 43 (Spain). cruises
Vueling
Girona Tel (800) 241 41 41 (US). Tel 807 200 200 (Spain).
Tel 902 40 47 04. www.delta.com TRAVEL TO THE
www.vueling.com
BALEARIC ISLANDS
Reus
EasyJet SEA TRAVEL
Tel 902 40 47 04.
Tel 807 07 00 70 (Spain). Acciona
Tel 0871 244 2366 (UK). Atlas Cruises & Tours Trasmediterránea
AIRLINES Tel (800) 942 3301 (US).
www.easyjet.com
Air Europa www.atlastravelweb.com Tel 902 45 46 45
Iberia, Air Nostrum
Tel 902 401 501 (Spain). (Spain). www.trans-
Tel 902 400 500 (Spain).
www.air-europa.com Costa Cruises mediterranea.es
Tel 0870 609 0500 (UK).
Tel 902 23 12 31 (Spain).
British Airways Tel (800) 772 4642 (US). Balearia
www.costacruceros.es
Tel 902 11 13 33 (Spain). Ryanair Tel 902 16 01 80 (Spain).
Tel 0844 493 0787 (UK). Tel 08712 460000 (UK). Grimaldi Group www.balearia.com
www.britishairways.com www.ryanair.com Tel 902 531 333 (Spain).
184 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
BARCELONA TICKETS
AND TRAVELCARDS
don’t work to
THE BARCELONA METRO make a duplicate.
3 b Insert
banknote(s).
There are seven underground
Metro lines in Barcelona, run
by TMB (Transports Metropoli-
3 a Insert credit
card.
PARKING
BUS STATIONS
Estació del Nord
Carrer d’Alí Bei 80.
Tel 90 226 06 06.
www.barcelonanord.com
Estació de Sants
Plaça del Països Catalans.
Tel 90 226 06 06.
A busy taxi rank in Barcelona
188 B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R
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0 kilometres 2
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Joaquín Costa, Carrer de 2F2 Marquès de Barberà, Navas, Plaça de las 1C2
G Jonqueres, Carrer de les 5B1 Carrer del 2F3 Neptú, Carrer de 3A2
Gaiolà, Passatge de 4D4 Marquès de Campo Sagrado, Niça, Carrer de 4F1
Josep Anselm Clavé,
Gal.la Placídia, Plaça de 3A1 Carrer del 2D2 Nogués, Passatge de 4E2
Carrer de 5A3
Gaudí, Avinguda de 4E3 Marquès de Comillas, Nord, Carrer del 1A1
Josep Carner, Passeig de 2E5
Gaudí, Plaça de 4E3 Avinguda del 1A1
Josep Ciurana, Carrer de 4F1 Notariat, Carrer del 2F2
Gegants, Carrer dels 5A2 Marquès de l’Argentera,
Jovellanos, Carrer de 5A1 Nou de la Rambla,
Gelí, Carrer de 5C5 Avinguda del 5B3
Judici, Carrer del 5B5 Carrer 2D4
General Álvarez de Castro, Marquès de la Foronda,
Julià, Carrer de 1C3 Nou Sant Francesc,
Carrer del 5B2 Plaça del 1B2
Julià, Passatge de 1C3 Carrer 5A3
General Bassos, Marquesa, Carrer de la 5C3
Julià Portet, Carrer de 5B1 Nova, Plaça 5A2
Passatge de 6F3 Martí, Carrer de 4D1
Julian Romea, Carrer 3A2
General Castaños,
Carrer de 5B3
Junta del Comerç,
Carrer de 2F3
Martínez de la Rosa,
Carrer de 3B2
O
Gessamí, Carrer del 1A1 Obradors, Carrer dels 5A3
Martras, Passatge de 1C3 Ocata, Carrer d’ 5C3
Gignàs, Carrer d’En 5A3
Gimbernat, Carrer dels 1B1 L Mas Casanovas,
Carrer del 4F1
Olímpic, Passeig 1A4
Ginebra, Carrer de 5B4 Laforja, Carrer de 3A1 Olivera, Carrer de l’ 1C2
Laietana, Via 5B1 Massanet, Carrer de 5B2 Olles, Plaça de les 5B3
Giralt el Pellisser, Massens, Carrer de 3C1
Carrer d’En 5B2 Lancaster, Carrer de 2F3 Om, Carrer de l’ 2E3
Legalitat, Carrer de la 4D1 Mata, Carrer de 2E4 Or, Carrer de l’ 3B1
Girona, Carrer de 3C3 Mateu, Carrer de 3B1
Glòries Catalanes, Leiva, Carrer de 1B1 Oreneta, Carrer d’ 3A1
Lepant, Carrer de 4E1 Meer, Carrer de 5B5 Ortigosa, Carrer de 5B1
Plaça de les 4F5 Méndez Núñez,
Gombau, Carrer de 5B2 Lincoln, Carrer de 3A1
Goya, Carrer de 3A2 Llançà, Carrer de
Llàstics, Carrer d’En
1B1
5C2
Carrer de
Méndez Vigo,
5C1
P
Goya, Plaça de 2F1 Pablo Neruda, Plaça de 4E4
Llavalloll, Passatge de 4D2 Passatge de 3B4
Gràcia, Carrer de 3B2 Padilla, Carrer de 4F1
Lleialtat, Carrer de la 2E3 Mercader, Passatge de 3A3
Gràcia, Passeig de 3A2–3A5 Pagès, Passatge de 4D5
Lleida, Carrer de 1B2 Mercaders, Carrer dels 5B2
Gràcia, Travessera de 3A2 Palau, Carrer del 5A3
Lleó, Carrer de l 2F2 Mercè, Carrer de la 5A3
Gran de Gràcia, Carrer 3A2 Palaudàries, Carrer de 2E4
Lleona, Carrer de la 5A2 Meridiana, Avinguda 6D2
Granada del Penedès, Palla, Carrer de la 5A2
Llibertat, Carrer de la 3B2 Mestrança, Carrer de la 5B5
Carrer de la 3A2 Pallars, Carrer de 6E2
Llibertat, Plaça de la 3A1 Metges, Carrer dels 5C2
Grases, Carrer de 1C2 Palma, Carrer de la 1C3
Llibreteria, Carrer de la 5A2 Mèxic, Carrer de 1B1
Grassot, Carrer d’En 4D2 Palma de Sant Just,
Llorens i Barba, Migdia, Passeig del 1A4
Gravina, Carrer de 2F1 Carrer de la 5B3
Carrer de 4F1 Milà i Fontanals,
Gregal, Moll de 6F5 Paloma, Carrer de la 2E1
Lluís Companys, Carrer de 3C3
Guàrdia, Carrer de 2F3 Pamplona, Carrer de 4F5
Passeig de 5C2 Milans, Carrer de 5A3
Guàrdia Urbana, C de la 1B2 & 6F1–6F3
Lluís Millet, Plaça de 5B1 Milton, Carrer de 3A1 Paral.lel, Avinguda del 1B1
Guatila, Carrer de la 1A1
Llull, Carrer de 6D2 Minerva, Carrer de 3A2 1C2 & 2D2–2F5
Guifré, Carrer de 2F2
Lluna, Carrer de la 2F2 Minici Natal, Passeig de 1A3 Parc, Carrer del 5A3
Guilleries, Carrer de les 3B1
Louis Braille, Carrer de 5A3 Mirador, Plaça del 1C5 Pare Eusebi Millan,
Guinardó, Ronda del 4E1
Luis Antúnez, Carrer de 3A2 Mirallers, Carrer dels 5B3 Plaça del 1A2
Guítert, Carrer de 5C5
Miramar, Avinguda de 1B3 Pare Laínez, Carrer del 4D2
H M Miramar, Carretera de
Miramar, Passeig de
2D5
2D4
Parlament, Carrer del 2D2
Madrozo, Carrer dels 3A1 Parlament, Passatge del 2D2
Havana, Carrer de l’ 5C5 Mistral, Avinguda de 1C1
Magalhäes, Carrer de 1C3 Patriarca, Passatge del 5A1
Hipòlit Lázaro, Carrer d’ 4D2 Moianés, Carrer del 1A1
Magdalenes, Pau, Passatge de la 5A3
Hispanitat, Plaça de la 4E4 Moles, Carrer de les 5B1
Carrer de les 5B1 Pau Claris, Carrer de 3B3
Hort de Sant Pau, Molí, Camí del 1A5
Maiol, Passatge de 4E4 Pedreres, Carrer de les 1C2
Carrer de l’ 2E3 Molí Antic, Camí del 1A5
Malcuinat, Carrer del 5B3 Pedró, Plaça del 2E2
Hortes, Carrer de les 2D3 Mònec, Carrer d’En 5C1
Mallorca, Carrer de 3A4 Pelai, Carrer de 2F1
Hospital, Carrer de l’ 2E2 Monistrol, Carrer de 3C2 Penedès, Carrer del 3B2
Manresa, Carrer de 5B3
Montalegre, Carrer de 2F2 Pere Costa, Carrer de 4F1
Manso, Carrer de 2D2
I Manuel Ribé, Platja de 5A2
Montanyans, Pere IV, Carrer de 6E2
Icària, Avinguda d’ 6E3 Avinguda dels 1A2 Pere Serafí, Carrer del 3B1
Manufactures,
Igualada, Carrer d’ 3C2 Montcada, Carrer de 5B3 Perill, Carrer del 3B2
Passatge de les 5B1
Indústria, Carrer de la 3C2 Montjuïc, Camí de 1C5 Perla, Carrer de la 3B1
Maquinista, Carrer de la 5B4
Isabel II, Passatge d’ 5B3 Montjuïc, Parc de 1C3 Permanyer, Passatge de 3B5
Mar, Carrer del 5B5
Iscle Soler, Carrer d’ 4D3 Montjuïc, Passeig de 2D4 Pescadors, Carrer dels 5B5
Mar, Rambla de 5A4
Montmany, Carrer de 3C1 Pescadors, Moll dels 5A5
Mare de Déu del Remei,
J Carrer de la 1C2
Montseny, Carrer del 3B1
Montserrat, Passatge de 2F4
Petons, Carrer dels
Petritxol, Carrer de
5C2
5A2
Jaén, Carrer de 3B1 Mare de Déu dels
Montsió, Carrer de 5A1 Peu de la Creu,
Jaume Giralt, Carrer de 5C2 Desemparats,
Morabos, Carrer dels 1A1 Carrer del 2F2
Jaume Fabra, Carrer de 1C2 Carrer de la 3B2
Moscou, Carrer de 6D4 Pi i Margall, Carrer de 4D1
Jaume I, Carrer de 5A2 Margarit, Carrer de 1C3
Mosques, Carrer de les 5B3 Pi, Carrer del 5A2
Jesús, Carrer de 3B2 Maria, Carrer de 3B2
Mossèn Jacint Verdaguer, Pi, Plaça del 5A2
Joan Blanques, Carrer de 3C2 Marià Cubí, Carrer de 3A1
Plaça de 3C3 Picasso, Passeig de 5C3
Joan Casas, Passatge de 4F5 Marina, Carrer de la 4E2–4E5
Mozart, Carrer de 3B2 Pintor Fortuny, Carrer del 2F2
Joan d’Austria, Carrer de 6E1 & 6E1–6E4
Muntaner, Carrer de 2F1 Piquer, Carrer de 2D3
Joan de Borbó, P de 5B4 Marina, Moll de la 6E5
Marina, Passatge de la 4E1 Murillo, Carrer de 2D3 Pizarro, Carrer de 5C4
Joanic, Plaça d’En 3C1
Joaquim Blume, Carrer de 1B2 Mariner, Passatge de 4D3 Plata, Carrer de la 5A3
Joaquim Pou, Carrer de 5B2 Mar i Terra, Passatge 2E4 N Poeta Boscà, Plaça del 5B4
Joaquim Renart, Marítim de Nova Icária, Nacional, Passeig 5B5 Poeta Cabanyes,
Passeig de 6D2 Passeig 6E4 Nàpols, Carrer de 4D2–4D5 Carrer del 2D3
Joaquim Ruyra, Marítim del Port Olímpic, & 6D1–6D2 Polvorí, Camí del 1A1
Carrer de 4D2 Passeig 6E4 Narcis Oller, Plaça de 3A2 Pompeu Gener, Plaça de 5C4
B A R C E L O N A S T R E E T F I N D E R 191
Portaferrissa, Roger de Flor, Carrer de Sant Pere d’Abanto, Tigre, Carrer del 2E1
Carrer de la 5A2 4D2–D5 & 6D1–6D2 Carrer de 1A1 Til·lers, Passeig dels 5C2
Portal de l’Angel, Roger de Flor, Sant Pere Martir, Topazi, Carrer del 3B1
Avinguda del 5A1 Passatge de 4D3 Carrer de 3B2 Tordera, Carrer de 3B2
Portal de la Pau, Roger de Llúria, Sant Pere Mes Alt, Torrent de les Flors,
Plaça del 2F4 Carrer de 3B3 Carrer de 5B1 Carrer del 3C1
Portal de Santa Madrona, Roig, Carrer d’En 2F2 Sant Pere Mes Baix, Torrent de l’Olla,
Carrer del 2F4 Romans, Carrer de 4D1 Carrer de 5B2 Carrer del 3B3
Portal Nou, Carrer del 5C2 Ros de Olano, Carrer de 3B1 Sant Pere Mitja, Torrent d’en Vidalet,
Prat, Rambla del 3A1 Rosa, Carrer de la 5A3 Carrer de 5B1 Carrer del 3C2
Princep d’Astúries, Rosa Sensat, Carrer de 6F3 Sant Rafael, Carrer de 2F3 Torres, Carrer de 3B2
Avinguda del 3A1 Rosalía de Castro, Sant Ramon, Carrer de 2F3
Torres, Passatge de les 4E3
Princep de Viana, Carrer de 4F2 Sant Roc, Carrer de 1A1
Torres i Amat, Carrer de 2F1
Carrer del 2E2 Roser, Carrer del 2D3 Sant Sebastià, Platja de 5B5
Torrevella, Carrer de 6D4
Princesa, Carrer de la 5B2 Rosselló, Carrer del 3A3 Sant Sever, Carrer de 5A2
Torrijos, Carrer de 3C2
Rull, Carrer d’En 5A3 Sant Vincenç, Carrer de 2E2
Progrés, Carrer del 3B2 Trafalgar, Carrer de 5C1
Santa Anna, Carrer de 5A1
Provença, Carrer de 3A3
Providència, S Santa Carolina, Carrer de 4F2
Tragí, Carrer de
Traginers, Plaça dels
5B2
5B3
Sagrada Família, Santa Dorotea, Carrer de 1A1
Carrer de la 4D1 Trelawny, Carrer de 6D4
Plaça de la 4D3 Santa Elena, Carrer de 2E3
Prunera, Passatge de 1C2 Tres Pins, Carrer dels 1B4
Sagristans, Carrer dels 5B2 Santa Eugènia, Carrer de 3A1
Puig i Xoriguer, Tres Senyores,
Salamanca, Carrer de 5C5 Santa Eulàlia, Carrer de 3C2
Carrer de 2E4 Carrer de les 3C1
Salvà, Carrer de 2D3 Santa Madrona,
Puigmartí, Carrer de 3B2 Unió, Carrer de la 2F3
Salvador, Carrer del 2E2 Carrer de 2E3
Pujades, Carrer de 6F2 Univers, Plaça de l’ 1B1
Salvador Espriu, Santa Madrona,
Pujades, Passeig de 6D2 Universitat, Plaça de la 2F1
Carrer de 6E4 Passeig de 1B3
Purissima Concepció, Santa Magdalena, Universitat, Ronda de la 2F1
Sancho de Ávila,
Carrer de la 1C3 Carrer de 3B1 Utset, Passatge d’ 4E4
Carrer de 6E1
Sant Agustí, Carrer de 3B3 Santa Mònica, Carrer de 2F4
Q Sant Agustí, Plaça de 2F3 Santa Rosa, Carrer de 3B1 V
Quevedo, Carrer de 3C2 Sant Agustí Vell, Santa Tecla, Carrer de 3B3 València, Carrer de 3A4
Plaça de 5C2 Santa Teresa, Carrer de 3B3 Valldonzella, Carrer de 2F1
R Sant Antoni, Ronda del 2E2 Saragossa, Carrer de 3A1 Vallfogona, Carrer de 3B1
Rabí Rubén, Carrer del 1A1 Sant Antoni Abat, Sardana, Plaça de la 2D4 Vallhonrat, Carrer de 1C2
Radas, Carrer de 1C3 Carrer de 2E2 Sardenya, Carrer de 4E2–4E5 Ventalló, Carrer de 4D2
Rambla, del 5A1 Sant Antoni Maria Claret, & 6E1–6E2 Venus, Carrer de 3B2
Rambla del Raval, la 5A1 Carrer de 4D2 Seca, Carrer de la 5B3
Verdaguer i Callís,
Ramis, Carrer de 3C2 Sant Benet, Passatge de 5C1 Secretari Coloma,
Carrer de 5B1
Ramon Turró, Carrer de 6E3 Sant Bertran, Carrer de 2E4 Carrer del 4D1
Verdi, Carrer de 3B1
Ramon y Cajal, Sant Carles, Carrer de 5B4 Sedata, Jardí de la 4D2
Vermell, Carrer 5C2
Carrer de 3B2 Sant Climent, Carrer de 2E2 Segons Jocs Mediterranis,
Verntallat, Carrer de 3C1
Raspall, Plaça del 3B2 Sant Cristòfol, Carrer de 3A1 Carrer dels 1B2
Viada, Carrer de 3C1
Ratés, Passatge de 6F1 Sant Domènec, Seneca, Carrer de 3A2
Vicenç Martorell, Plaça de 5A1
Rauric, Carrer d’En 5A2 Carrer de 3B2 Sepúlveda, Carrer de 1C1
Serra, Carrer d’En 5A3 Victòria, Carrer de la 5C1
Rec, Carrer del 5C3 Sant Domènec del Call,
Sert, Passatge de 5C1 Vigatans, Carrer del 5B2
Rec Comtal, Carrer del 5C2 Carrer de 5A2
Sevilla, Carrer de 5B5 Vila de Madrid,
Rector Oliveras, Sant Elm, Carrer de 5B5
Sicília, Carrer de 4D2–4D5 Plaça de la 5A1
Passatge del 3B4 Sant Erasme, Carrer de 2E2
Sant Ferriol, Carrer de 1A1 & 6D1 Vila i Vilà, Carrer de 2E3
Regàs, Carrer de 3A1
Sant Francesc de Paula, Sidé, Carrer de 5B2 Viladecols, Baixada de 5B2
Regomir, Carrer del 5A3
Carrer de 5B1 Sils, Carrer de 5A3 Viladomat, Carrer de 2D1
Reial, Plaça 5A3
Sant Fructuós, Carrer de 1A1 Simó, Passatge de 4E3 Vilafranca, Carrer de 3C1
Reig i Bonet, Carrer de 4D1
Sant Gabriel, Carrer de 3A1 Simó Oller, Carrer de 5A3 Vilamarí, Carrer de 1C1
Reina Amàlia,
Sant Germà, Carrer de 1A1 Siracusa, Carrer de 3B2 Vilanova, Avinguda de 6D1
Carrer de la 2E2
Sant Gil, Carrer de 2E2 Sitges, Carrer de les 5A1 Vilaret, Passatge de 4F3
Reina Cristina,
Sant Honorat, Carrer de 5B2 Sol, Carrer del 3B1 Villarroel, Carrer de 2E1
Carrer de la 5B3
Sant Isidre, Carrer de 1C3 Sol, Plaça del (Gràcia) 3B1 Villena, Carrer de 6D3
Reina Maria Cristina, Sol, Plaça del (Montjuïc) 1B3
Sant Jaume, Plaça de 5A2 Vinaròs, Carrer de 5C5
Avinguda de la `1B2 Sombrerers, Carrer dels 5B3
Sant Jeroni, Carrer de 2F3 Vinyassa,
Rellotge, Moll del 5B5 Sòria, Carrer de 5C5
Sant Joan, Passeig de 3C2–3C5 Passatge de la 6F2
Revolució de Setembre Sortidor, Plaça del 2D3
& 5C1 Vinyeta, Passatge de la 2D4
de 1868, Plaça de la 3B1 Sota Muralla, Pas de 5B3
Sant Joaquim, Carrer de 3B2 Virtut, Carrer de la 3B1
Ribera, Carrer de la 5C3 Sots-tinent Navarro,
Sant Josep Oriol, Vistalegre, Carrer de 2E2
Ribes, Carrer de 4E5 & 6D1 Carrer de 2F3 Carrer del 5B2 Voluntaris Olímpics,
Ricart, Carrer de 1C2 Sant Lluís, Carrer de 3C1 Plaça dels 6E4
Riera Alta, Carrer de la 2E2
Riera Baixa, Carrer de la 2F2
Sant Marc, Carrer de 3A1 T
Riera de Sant Miquel,
Sant Martí, Carrer de
Sant Miquel, Baixada de 5A2
2E3 Tallers, Carrer dels
Tamarit, Carrer de
2F1
1C2
W
Carrer de la 3A2 Wellington, Carrer de 6D3
Sant Miquel, Carrer de 5B5 Tànger, Carrer de 6F1
Riereta, Carrer de la 2E2 Sant Oleguer, Carrer de 2F3 Tantarantana, Carrer d’En 5C2
Ripoll, Carrer de 5B2 Sant Pacià, Carrer de 2E3 Tàpies, Carrer de les 2E3 X
Rius i Taulet, Sant Pau, Carrer de 2E3 Tapineria, Carrer de la 5B2 Xaloc, Moll de 6F5
Avinguda de 1B2 Sant Pau, Ronda de 2E2 Tapioles, Carrer de 2D3 Xiquets de Valls,
Rius i Taulet, Plaça de 3B2 Sant Paulí de Nola, Tarròs, Carrer d’En 5B2 Carrer dels 3B2
Robador, Carrer d’En 2F3 Carrer de 1A1 Tasso, Passatge de 4D5 Xuclà, Carrer d’En 5A1
Robí, Carrer del 3B1 Sant Pere, Passatge de 4E1 Taxdirt, Carrer de 4E1
Roca, Carrer d’En 5A2 Sant Pere, Plaça de 5C1 Templaris, Carrer dels 5A3 Z
Rocafort, Carrer de 2D1 Sant Pere, Ronda de 5A1 Terol, Carrer de 3B1 Zamora, Carrer de 6F1
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M e d i t e r r á n e o
198 G E N E R A L I N D E X
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Assumpció (Assumption Day) 36 Blai, Pere 57
main entries Atlas Cruises and Tours 183 Blanes 120
ATMs 178 Blay, Miquel
A L’Auditori de Barcelona Museu d’Art Modern
Addresses 181 (Barcelona) 163 (Barcelona) 63
Adolfo Domínguez (Barcelona) Augustus, Emperor 54 Museu Comarcal de la
155 Australian Consulate 177 Garrotxa
Adventure sports 170 Autopistes (Olot) 115
Aeroclub de Sabadell 171 (motorways/highways) 186–7 Palau de la Música Catalana
Aïguamolls de l’Empordà 171 Autumn in Catalonia 36 (Barcelona) 63
Air Europa 182 Avis 187 Boadas (Barcelona) 163
Air Nostrum 182 Boats
Air travel 182– 3
Airborne activities 170
B golondrinas (Barcelona) 65
Balaguer 109 Museu Marítim (Barcelona) 69
Akhila, King of the Visigoths 42 Balearia 183 sailing 171
Albéniz, Isaac 19 Balearic Islands sea travel 183
Alfonso II, King of Aragón sea travel 183 Bofill, Guillem 116
Monestir de Poblet 126 Bank notes 179 Bofill, Ricard 89, 99
Puigcerdà 114 Banking 178
Alfonso III, King of Aragón Bonaparte, Joseph 45
conquest of Mallorca 43 Banyoles 115 Bookshops 155
Alfonso XIII, King of Spain 95 Baqueira-Beret 113 La Boqueria (Barcelona) 155
Almodóvar, Pedro 18, 19 Barcelona El Born
Almogàvers 43 airport 182– 3 Walk 102–3
Amargós, Josep 63 cafés and bars 152– 3 Borrassà, Lluís 28
Amatller d’Art Hispanic 78 Eixample 70– 83 Bossòst 112
Ambulances 176, 177 entertainment 162–9 Bourbon dynasty
American Express 178 festes 34–37 Carlist Wars 46
Amposta 129 Further Afield 92– 9 Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Amusement Park 163 hotels 134–7 89
Andorra 114 maps 14–15, 50–51, 188–97 War of the Spanish Succession
Andorra la Vella 114 Metro 185 44–45
Angelico, Fra 95 Montjuïc 84– 91 British Airways 182
Antiga Casa Figueres Old Town 52– 69 Buigas, Carles 87, 89
(Barcelona) 26 Quadrat d’Or 72– 3 Buigas, Gaietà 65
Antilla Barcelona (Barcelona) 163 restaurants 146– 8 Bulevard Rosa (Barcelona) 155
Antiques shops 155 shopping 154– 61 Bureaux de Change 178
Antoni Desvalls, Joan 98 trains 184 Buses 187
Any Nou (New Year) 36 Barcelona, Counts of 42 Butterflies of the Vall d’Aran
Apolo (Barcelona) 163 Barcelona Football Club 95, 163 112
Aquarium (Barcelona) 68 Museu del Futbol Club
Aqüeducte de les Ferreres Barcelona 94 C
(Tarragona) 129 Barceloneta 67 Caballé, Montserrat 19
Arc de Berà (Tarragona) 129 Barclays Bank 178 Cadaqués 109, 120
Arc del Triomf (Barcelona) 65 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 53 Costa Brava 121
L’Arca de l’Àvia (Barcelona) 155 Street-by-Street map 54–5 Cadí-Moixeró 114
Archaeological Museum Barri Xinès (Barcelona) 60, 176 Caesar, Julius 120
(Barcelona) Barruera 113 Cafés and Bars 152–3, 163
see Museu Arqueològic Bars 142, 152– 3 La Caixa de Fang
Arché, Rafael 65 designer bars 163 (Barcelona) 155
Architecture Bartomeu, Mestre 28 CaixaForum 98
Gaudí and Modernisme 24– 5 Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar Calçats E Solé (Barcelona) 155
Romanesque Art and (Barcelona) 64 Caldes de Boí 113
Architecture 22–23 Bassa, Ferrer 28, 95 Cambrils 128
La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7 Batlló i Casanovas, Josep 76 Camp Nou stadium 94
Aribau, Bonaventura 45
Beaches Camp sites 133
Armand Basi (Barcelona) 155
Arribas, Alfredo 89 Costa Brava 121 Camprodon 115
Art Costa Daurada 128 Canadian Consulate 177
Catalan Painting 28–9 Beatus of Liébana, St 114 Canaletto 88
Romanesque Art and Bed and breakfast 133 Canary Islands
Architecture 21–23 Beget 115 map 13
stores 155 Begur 121 Cantada d’havaneres 35
see also Museums and Berenguer, Francesc 99 Cardona 124
galleries Berga Cardona, Dukes of 124, 126
Art Cristià workshops 28 festes 34 Carlist Wars (1833 – 9) 41, 45,
Arties 112 Berga i Boix, Josep 28 46
Associació de Campings de Besalú 115 Carlos IV, King of Spain 126
Barcelona 133 Betty B (Barcelona) 155 Carnestoltes 37
Associació Catalana d’Estacions Beuys, Joseph Carnival 37
d’Esquí Chamber of Pain 99 Carreras, Josep (José) 19, 162
i Activitats de Muntanya Bicycling 170 Cars 186–7
(ACEM) 171 Bike Tours Barcelona 170 Carthage 41
Associació Fondes de Catalunya Bird-watching 170 Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona) 56
133 Black Virgin 123 Street-by-Street map 54
G E N E R A L I N D E X 199
Casa Battló (Barcelona) 24, 25, Charles the Bald, King of the Dalí, Salvador (cont.)
78, 76–7 Franks 114 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres)
Casa de la Ciutat (Barcelona) 57 Charles Martel, King of the 117
Street-by-Street map 54 Franks 42 Dalmau, Lluís 28, 88
Casa Lléo Morera (Barcelona) 26 Cheques 143, 178 Dance 162, 163
Street-by-Street map 72 Christmas 36, 37 sardana 129
Casa Milà (Barcelona) 50, 78, 79 Churches in Barcelona Delta Air Lines 182
Street-by-Street map 73 opening hours 174–5 Delta de l’Ebre 129, 171
Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí Basílica de Santa Maria del Department stores 154, 155
(Figueres) 117 Mar 60 Desclot, Bernard 43
Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí Sagrada Família 24, 51, 71, 78, Design shops 155
(Cadaqués) 120 80–83 Dia de la Constitució 36
Casa Terrades (Barcelona) 79 Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Dia de la Hispanitat 36
Street-by-Street map 73 Cor 93, 98 Diada de Catalunya 36
Casa Vicens (Barcelona) 26 “Cistercian triangle” 125, 126 Dialling codes 180
Casals, Pau 19 Citibank 178 Dijous Sant (Maundy Thursday)
Museu Pau Casals (Sant 34
City Museum (Barcelona) see
Salvador) 128 Dilluns de Pasqua
Casas, Ramon 29, 63 Museu d’História de la Ciutat
Clavé, Josep Anselm 61 (Easter Monday) 36
Procession outside Santa Diners Club 178
Maria del Mar 28 Climate 21, 34–37
Climbing, safety 177 Disabled Accessible Travel 175
Cases de Pagès 133 Diumenge de Rams
Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) Clothes
in restaurants 142 (Palm Sunday) 34
50, 89 Divendres Sant (Good Friday)
Casteller festivals 35, 125 stores 154, 155
Cloud and Chair (Tàpies) 72 36
Castles Diving 171
Cardona 124 Club Fellini 168, 169
Clubs 163 Doctors 176
Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona) Dolça of Provence 42
50, 89 Coins 179
Coll 113 Domènech i Montaner, Lluís
Torre Bellesguard (Barcelona) Casa de l’Ardiaca (Barcelona)
98 Col·legi de les Teresianes 25
Collet, Charles 123 56
Catalan language 18–19, 174 Casa Lleó Morera (Barcelona)
Catalonia 108–29 Colmado Quílez (Barcelona) 155
Columbus, Christopher 44 72, 78
Catalan painting 28–9
Fundació Antoni Tàpies
history 40–47 Barcelona Cathedral 58
(Barcelona) 72, 78
hotels 137–41 Dia de la Hispanitat 36
maps 12–13, 15, 110–11 Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
Monument a Colom
Portrait of Catalonia 17–19 Sant Pau (Barcelona) 71, 79
(Barcelona) 50, 60, 69 Modernisme 24
restaurants 150–51 Palau Reial Major (Barcelona)
The Cathedral of the Poor (Mir) 29 Museu de Zoologia
56 (Barcelona) 66
Cathedrals Come In (Barcelona) 155
Barcelona 51, 54, 58–9 Palau de la Música Catalana
Communications 180–81 (Barcelona) 63
Girona 116–7 Companys, Lluís
La Seu d’Urgell 114 Domènech i Montaner, Pere 79
arrest and imprisonment 46 Domènech i Roura, Pere 89
Lleida 124 Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Tarragona 129 Dona i Ocell (Miró) 94
89 Drassanes (Barcelona) 65
Vic 124 execution 47, 89
Cava Country 32–3 Durro 113
Concert season (Barcelona) 35
Central de Reservas 133 Consulates 177
Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
(Cadaqués) 120
Convergència i Unió 18, 47 E
Corpus Christi 34 Easter 34, 36
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta El Corte Inglés (Barcelona) 155
(Girona) 116 easyJet 182
CosmoCaixa 98 Ebre, Riu 129
Centre de Cultura
Contemporania 60 Costa Brava 109, 121 Eco-Museu (Delta de L’Ebre)
Centre Excursionista Costa Cruises 182 129
de Catalunya (Barcelona) 171 Costa Daurada 128 Efficiencies see Self-catering
Street-by-Street map 55 Credit cards 143, 178 Eixample (Barcelona) 15, 70–83
Centre Municipal de Tennis Vall Crime 176–7 area map 71
d’Hebron 171 Currency 178– 9 cafés and bars 153
Centre Municipal de Vela Port Cycling 170 hotels 136–7
Olímpic 171 Quadrat d’Or: Street-by-Street
Cercle de Pessons 114 D map 72–3
Cerdà i Sunyer, Ildefons 24, 46 Dalí, Gala 117 restaurants 148
Eixample (Barcelona) 71 Dalí, Salvador 19, 29, 117 Sagrada Família 80–83
Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes Cadaqués 120 El Bosc de les Fades
(Barcelona) 99 Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí (Barcelona) 163
Cerdanya 114 (Figueres) 117 El Prat airport (Barcelona)
Cereria Subirà (Barcelona) 155 Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí 182–3
Cervantes, Miguel de 43 (Cadaqués) 120 El Vendrell 128
Chagall, Marc 120 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore Electrical adaptors 175
Charlemagne, Emperor 42, (Cadaqués) 120 Elisenda de Montcada de Piños
116–7 Rainy Taxi (Dalí) 117 95
200 G E N E R A L I N D E X
Huguet, Jaume (cont.) Llívia 114 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig
Palau Reial Major (Barcelona) Lloret de Mar 121 Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
57 festes 35 (Barcelona) 89
St George and the Princess 28 La Llotja (Barcelona) 63 Milà family 79
Human towers 125 Lloyds TSB Bank 178 Mir, Joaquim 63
Hunting 170 Llúria, Roger de 43 The Cathedral of the Poor 29
Lotto, Lorenzo 88 Mirablau (Barcelona) 163
I Luke, St 123 Miró, Joan 29, 19, 86
Iberia 182 Lull, Ramon 43 Barcelona School of Fine Arts
Iberians 41 Luminists 29 60
Ice-skating 170 Luna, Bigas 19 Dona i Ocell 94
Illa de la Discòrdia Flame in Space and Naked
(Barcelona) 78 M Woman 88
Street-by-Street map 72 Fundació Joan Miró
L’Illa (Barcelona) 155 Macià, Francesc 46 (Barcelona) 87, 88
Immaculada Concepció 36 Magazines 181 Museu de Ceràmica
Individual Travellers’ Spain 133 Magic Fountain (Barcelona) (Barcelona) 95
Inquisition 56 see Font Màgica Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Insurance Mancomunitat 46 94
holiday (vacation) 177 La Manuel Alpargatera Plaça de la Boqueria
motor 186 (Barcelona) 155 (Barcelona) 61
Internacional de Cotxes Maps Miró, Toni 19
d’Època 37 Barcelona 50–51, 188– 97 Mitjans, Francesc 94
International Exhibition (1929) 46 Barcelona: City Centre 14–15 Modernisme 19
Montjuïc 85 Barcelona: Further Afield 93 Eixample (Barcelona) 71
Museu Nacional d’Art de Barcelona: Quadrat d’Or 72–3 Gaudí and Modernisme 24–5
Catalunya (Barcelona) 88 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 54–5 La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe Canary Islands 13 Mansana de la Discòrdia
(Barcelona) 89 Catalonia 15, 110–11 (Barcelona) 78
Poble Espanyol (Barcelona) 89 Cava Country 32–3 Mompou, Frederic 19
Isabel of Castile 44, 56 Eixample (Barcelona) 71 Monasteries
Isozaki, Arata 89 Europe and North Africa 13 “Cistercian triangle” 125, 126
IVA see VAT Girona 116 Monestir de Montserrat 122–3
Montjuïc (Barcelona) 85, 86–7 Monestir de Poblet 126–7
J Old Town (Barcelona) 53 Monestir de Santa Maria
Jamboree (Barcelona) 163 La Rambla (Barcelona) 60–61 (Ripoll) 22, 114
Jardí Botànic Mar i Murtra La Ruta del Modernisme 26–7 Monestir de Santa Maria de
(Blanes) 120 Spain 12–13 Pedralbes (Barcelona) 95
Jaume I the Conqueror, King of Monestir de Santes Creus 125
Aragón 43, 57 Maragall, Pasqual 18, 47 Sant Joan de les Abadesses
Jaume II, King of Aragón 95 Maremagnum (Barcelona) 155 115
Barcelona Cathedral 58, 59 Marès i Deulovol, Frederic 56, Moneo, Rafael 99
court painter 28 127 Money 178– 9
Monestir de Santes Creus 125 Maresme, coast 109 Montblanc 125
Jazz 163 Mariscal, Javier 19, 89 Montjuïc (Barcelona) 14, 84– 9
Terrassa Jazz Festival 34 Maritime Museum (Barcelona) area map 85
Jazz Room 167 see Museu Marítim Street-by-Street map 86–7
Jews 56 Marketing Ahead 133 Castell de Montjuïc 50, 89
Besalú 115 Markets 155 Montserrat 122–3
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta Mercat de San Josep Monturiol i Estarriol, Narcís 117
(Girona) 116 (Barcelona) 60 Monument a Colom
expulsion of 44 Martí the Humanist 57, 98 (Barcelona) 50, 60, 69
Joan, Pere 129 Martín de Cermeño, Juan 64 Moors 42, 44
Juan, Don of Austria 65 Martorell, Bernat Tortosa 129
Juan II, King of Aragón 126 The Transfiguration 59 La Moreneta 123
Juan Carlos, King of Spain 47 Martorell i Peña, Francesc 66 Morning (Kolbe) 89
Jujol, Josep Maria 79 Martorell, Joanot 43, 44 Motor insurance 186
Parc Güell (Barcelona) 99 Mas i Fontdevila, Arcadi 29 Motorways (highways) 186–7
Julià Tours 187 MasterCard 178 Murals, Gothic art 28
Mateu, Pau 57 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 28
K Matollar Museums and galleries (general)
Keytel International 133 Flowers of the Matollar 20– 21 admission charges 175
Kolbe, Georg 86 opening hours 174
Morning 89 Wildlife of the Matollar 21 Museums and galleries
Medi Natural 171 (individual)
L Medical treatment 177
Meier, Richard 60
Barcelona Cathedral 59
Language 18–19, 174 CaixaForum 98
Legal assistance 177 Las Meninas (Picasso) 61 Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí
Lichtenstein, Roy 64 Menus 143, 144– 5 (Figueres) 117
Lithograph (Tàpies) 29 Mercat de les Flors (Barcelona) Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí
Llafranc 121 163 (Cadaqués) 120
Lleida 109, 124–5 Mercat de Sant Josep Castell de Montjuïc (Barcelona)
Llibreria Quera 171 (Barcelona) 60 89
Lliga de Catalunya 46 La Mercè (Barcelona) 36 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
Llimona, Josep 62, 63 Metro 185 (Cadaqués) 120
202 G E N E R A L I N D E X
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Palau Moja (Barcelona) 61
Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta Pretori i Circ Romans Palau de la Música Catalana
(Girona) 116 (Tarragona) 128–29 (Barcelona) 63, 163
CosmoCaixa 98 Sagrada Família (Barcelona) Palau Nacional (Barcelona) 50,
Eco-Museu (Delta de L’Ebre) 80 86, 88
129 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figueres) Palau Reial (Barcelona) 55
Fundació Antoni Tàpies 117 Street-by-Street map 55
(Barcelona) 78 Vinseum (Vilafranca del Palau Reial de Pedralbes
Fundació Joan Miró Penedès) 125 (Barcelona) 95
(Barcelona) 87, 88 Music Palau Sant Jordi (Barcelona) 89
Girona Cathedral 117 classical music 35, 162, 163 Palau de la Virreina (Barcelona)
Monestir de Montserrat 122 Museu de la Música 60
Museu Arqueològic (Barcelona) 73 Pallarès Grau, Manuel 60
(Barcelona) 87, 88 Palau de la Música Catalana Palm Sunday 34
Museu d’Art (Girona) 117 (Barcelona) 63 Parachute jumps 170
Museu d’Art Contemporani rock, jazz and world music 163 Paradors 132, 133
(Barcelona) 62 Terrassa Jazz Festival 34 Paragliding 170
Museu de Arts Decoratives Muxart 159 Paral·lel any 1930 (Roger) 8–9
(Barcelona) 95 Parc d’Atraccions (Barcelona) 98
Museu d’Autòmats
(Barcelona) 98
N Parc de la Ciutadella
Nadal (Christmas) 36, 37 (Barcelona) 51, 65
Museu Cau Ferrat Nagel, Andrés 94 Parc de l’Espanya Industrial
(Sitges) 128 Napoleon I, Emperor 36, 45 (Barcelona) 94
Museu Comarcal de la Conca Narcissus, St 116 Parc del Laberint d’Horta 98
de Barberà (Montblanc) 125 National ATESA 187 Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Museu Comarcal de la National parks 94
Garrotxa (Olot) 115 hiking 170–71 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes
Museu de Cera (Barcelona) 61 Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes 113, 171
Museu de Ceràmica 113 Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró
(Barcelona) 95 Newspapers 181 114, 171
Museu de Ciències Naturals stores 155 Parc Natural del Delta de L’Ebre
(Edifici Geologia) Noche negra 47 129
(Barcelona) 66 Nonell, Isidre 63 Parc Zoològic (Barcelona) 66
Museu de Ciències Naturals Waiting for Soup 29 Park Güell (Barcelona) 96– 7
(Edifici Zoología) Parking 187
(Barcelona) 66 O Parks and gardens
Museu del Cinema (Girona) 117 Old Town (Barcelona) 15, 53–69 Jardí Botànic Mar i Murtra
Museu Diocesà (La Seu area map 53
d’Urgell) 114 (Blanes) 120
Museu Diocesà i Comarcal Barcelona Cathedral 58–9 Palau Reial de Pedralbes
(Solsona) 124 cafés and bars 152–3 (Barcelona) 95
Museu Episcopal de Vic 22, 124 hotels 134–6 Parc de la Ciutadella
Museu Etnològic (Barcelona) 87 La Rambla 60–61 (Barcelona) 51, 65
Museu Frederic Marès restaurants 146–8 Parc de l’Espanya Industrial
(Barcelona) 55, 56 Street-by-Street: Barri Gòtic (Barcelona) 94
Museu del Futbol Club 54–5 Parc de Joan Miró (Barcelona)
Barcelona (Barcelona) 94 Oliva, Abbot 42, 124 94
Museu del Ganivet (Solsona) Olot 115 Park Güell (Barcelona) 96–7
124 Olot School 28, 115 Pasqua (Easter) 34
Museu d’Història de Catalunya Olympic Games (1992) 47 Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona)
(Barcelona) 68–9 Estadi Olímpic de Montjuïc Street-by-Street map 72
Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (Barcelona) 89 Passports 174
– Plaça del Rei (Barcelona) Montjuïc (Barcelona) 85 Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
55, 56 Port Olímpic (Barcelona) 67 (Barcelona) 89
Museu d’Història de la Ciutat Torre de Collserola Street-by-Street map 86
(Girona) 117 (Barcelona) 95 Pelegrí de Tossa (Tossa de Mar)
Museu del Joguet (Figueres) Opening hours 37
117 banks 178 Peña Ganchegui, Luis 94
Museu Marítim (Barcelona) 69 churches 174 Peninsular War (War of
Museu Municipal (Tossa museums 174 Independence, 1808–14) 45
de Mar) 120 restaurants 142 Pepper, Beverley 99
Museu de la Música Otto Zutz (Barcelona) 163 Peratallada 120
(Barcelona) 73 Outdoor hazards 177 Pere IV the Ceremonious,
Museu Nacional Arqueològicc King of Aragon 43, 126
(Tarragona) 129 P Personal security 176– 7
Museu Nacional d’Art de Painting, Catalan 28– 9 Peter, St 123
Catalunya (Barcelona) 86, 88 Palamós 121 Petrol (gas) 186
Museu Pau Casals Palau Baró de Quadras Petronila of Aragon 42
(Sant Salvador) 128 (Barcelona) 26 Pharmacies 176
Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 64 Palau de la Generalitat Picasso, Jacqueline 61
Museu Tèxtil i d’Indumentária (Barcelona) 57 Picasso, Pablo 19, 29
(Barcelona) 61 Street-by-Street map 54 Barcelona School of Fine Arts
Museu de la Vall d’Aran Palau Güell (Barcelona) 24–5, 60
(Vielha) 112 60, 62 Centre d’Art Perrot-Moore
Museu de la Xocolata 65 Palau Macaya (Barcelona) 61 (Cadaqués) 120
G E N E R A L I N D E X 203
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Picture credits
following people whose contributions and KEY: t=top; tl=top left; tlc=top left centre;
assistance have made the preparation of this tc=top centre; trc=top right centre; tr=top right;
book possible. cla=centre left above; ca=centre above;
Houser 10cla; Andrea Jemolo 82cla; Jose Fuste ORONOZ, Madrid: 41b, 42t, 42c, 45bl, 46t.
Raga 11tl; James Sparshatt 82tl; Mark L.
Stephenson 83tr; Sandro Vannini 82bc; Vanni PHOTOGRAPHERSDIRECT.COM: Michael Dobson/
Archive 83br. COVER, Madrid: Pepe Franco 154c; Echo Imagery 107c, 107br; Fran Fernandez
Matias Nieto 191b. Photography 102b, 105c, 106tl, 107tl; Jan van
der Hoeven 101t, 103b, 104cla, 106br. PICTURES
EUROPEAN COMMISSION: 179. COLOUR LIBRARY: 74–75; FRANCISCO FERNANDEZ
PRIETO:104BC; PRISMA, Barcelona: 4t, 9 (inset),
FIRO FOTO: 69cl; FLICKR.COM: www.flickr.com/ 18t, 38–9, 45cb, 46cra, 131 (inset), 154b, 163c,
photos/del15xavii_xavo/4123975385/177tr; 173 (inset); Carles Aymerich 22bl, 36c; A. Bofill
FRIEIXENET: 32c, 33b; FUNDACION COLLECTION 19c; Roger Bosch El Paralelo 1930 8–9; Barbara
THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA: Fra Angelico Madonna of Call 17t; Jordi Cami 34b; Ramon Cases Carbo
Humility 95t; FUNDACIO JOAN MIRO, Barcelona: Procession outside Santa María del Mar c. 1898
Joan Miró Flama en l’espai i dona nua 1932 28t; Albert Heras 2–3, 36b; Kuwenal 43t, 43c;
© Succession Miró/ ADAGP, Paris and DACS, Mateu 35c; Joaquim Mir Trinxet La Catedral
London 2006 88t. de los Pobres 29c; Isidro Nunell Monturiol
Esperando la Sopa 1899 29t; Santiago Rusiñol y
GENERALITAT DE CATALUNYA: 177tr; GODO PHOTO: Prats Jardines de Aranjuez 1907 28b; Antoni
124bl, 129t, José Luis Dorada 125t. Tàpies Litografía 1948 © Foundation Tàpies,
Barcelona/ADAGP, Paris & DACS, London
ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY: 25tr, 59ca, 2006 29b.
72ca, 88b, 89b.
RAIMAT: 32cb; red-head: 52; RENFE: 184cb; REX
THE ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS PICTURE LIBRARY: 47t; FEATURES: 117cb; ELLEN ROONEY: 1.
INDEX, Barcelona: CJJ.19b, 44t, 47c; IMAGE BANK:
24b, 73b; Andrea Pistolesi 92; IMAGES COLOUR M ANGELES SANCHEZ: 35b; SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY:
LIBRARY: 24c; AGE Fotostock 76, 113b, 118– Geospace 12; SPECTRUM COLOUR LIBRARY: 24tr;
119, 155t, 155c, 170cr; NICK INMAN: 20b, 96br. STOCKPHOTOS, Madrid: 170b; Campillo 171t;
SUPERSTOCK: Age Fotostock 184cla.
LA CAXIA: 178tr; LIFE FILE PHOTOGRAPHIC: Xabier
Catalan 25c; Emma Lee 25cra. TV3 TELEVISION DE CATALUNYA: 181cra: TEXTIL
CAFÉ: 142c
MARKA, Milan: Sergio Pitamitz 62tl; MAS
SALVANERA: Ramón Ruscalleda 133t; MARY EVANS MAP COVER - PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Javier
PICTURE LIBRARY: 27 (inset); JOHN MILLER: 108; Larrea.
MUSEU NACIONAL D’ART DE CATALUNYA: J. Calveras JACKET: Front – PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/
J. Sagrista 90-91; Ramon Marti Alsina La Javier Larrea. Back - AWL IMAGES: Jon Arnold bl;
Compañia de Santa Barbara 1891 45t; MUSEU Danita Delimont Stock tl; DORLING KINDERSLEY:
PICASSO: Pablo Ruiz Picasso Auto Retrato 1899– Ella Milroy cla; Naomi Peck clb. Spine -
1900 © Succession Picasso/ DACS, London 2006 PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Javier Larrea t.
64bl; ABADIA DE MONTSERRAT (BARCELONA) 122br. FRONT END PAPER: clockwise John Miller; Image
Bank Andrea Pistolesi; Red-Head; Images
NATURAL SCIENCE PHOTOS: C Dani & I Jeske 170c; Colour Library/ Age Fotostock.
NATURPRESS, Madrid: 17b; Oriol Alamany 34c,
37b; Walter Kvaternik 37c, 26–27, 177cra; All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For
Carlos Vegas 178t, 180tr; Jose A Martinez 109b. further information see www.DKimages.com.