London DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides Dorling Kindersley 2011

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
LONDON
10
T M A RT I N ’ S L A N E
ID
RDB URY
Must-see museums & galleries

MA
EICESTER
SQUARE E
10
ST
ST AC
RE
PL SA
V
M OS
ET
Best restaurants in each area

R
ND
A
10
AD
AR
CH D
National
ST M
AM
T I N ’S
WILLI AM IV S
TREET
AN E
ST
OR A NEET Portrait R AC
GE
AR
ST
ST PL
RE
Ways to experience Royal London

TI N’ S
STR AM Y
ET
Gallery
P L AC
VO
N
AD
SA 10
ST
National
S TR
Victoria
JO
E
Embankment
EE
BU
Gallery
Great walks and itineraries
Charing CK
T
Gardens
10
IN
T
Cross V ST G HA
EN
ST TR AFALGAR IL M
EA
LI
SQUAR E ER
KM
S
L ST
Nelson’s
AL
Best hotels for every budget
AN
Charing RE
Column CR
Cross
ET
10
MB
COCKS AV
P
10 Most fun places for children

10 Best areas to shop or browse
10 Most fascinating buildings
10 Best West End shows
10 Insider tips for every visitor
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

TOP 10
LONDON
ROGER WILLIAMS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Left Old English Garden, Battersea Park Right Tower Bridge
Contents
London’s Top 10
Colour reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore
British Museum 8
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper
Products Ltd National Gallery &
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
National Portrait Gallery 12
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Copyright 2002, 2011 London Eye 16
© Dorling Kindersley Limited
Reprinted with revisions
2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
Tate Modern &
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under Tate Britain 18
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any Natural History Museum 22
means, (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise), without prior written
permission of both the copyright owner and the Science Museum 24
above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Buckingham Palace &
Dorling Kindersley Limited
A catalog record for this book is available from Royal Parks and Gardens 26
the Library of Congress
ISSN 1479-344X Westminster Abbey &
ISBN 978-0-7566-6942-3
Parliament Square 32
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the
editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Tower of London 36
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance
with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor St. Paul’s Cathedral 40
above ground level.
Moments in History 44
Churches 46
Museums 48
Art Galleries 50
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL, or email: [email protected].
Cover: Front – Alamy Images: David Noton Photography main. DK Images Stephen Oliver clb.
Spine – DK Images Stephen Oliver b. Back – DK Images: Philip Enticknap cl; Stephen Oliver cr;
Getty Images: Joe Cornish c.
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Contents
Left Houseboat, Regent’s Canal Right Riverside Walk, Southbank
Famous Residents 52 Soho & the West End 88

Royal London 54 Covent Garden 98
Performing Arts Venues 56 Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia 106
Live Music Venues 58 Mayfair & St. James’s 112
West End Shows 60 Kensington &
Pubs 62 Knightsbridge 118
Shops and Markets 64 Regent’s Park &

Marylebone 128
Festivals and Events 66
Children’s London 68 The City 134
River Sights 70 Heading North 140
Literary London 72 South & West 146
London on Foot 74 Heading East 152
Best Places to Eat 76 Streetsmart

Around Town Practical Information 160
Westminster, the Places to Stay 172

South Bank & Southwark 80 General Index 180
Left Lamb and Flag pub, Covent Garden Right View from Parliament Hill
3
LONDON’S
TOP 10
London Highlights
6–7
LONDON’S TOP 10
British Museum
8–11
National Gallery &
National Portrait Gallery
12–15
London Eye
16–17
Tate Modern &
Tate Britain
18–21
Natural History Museum
22–23
Science Museum
24–25
Buckingham Palace &
Royal Parks and Gardens
26–29
Westminster Abbey &
Parliament Square
32–35
Tower of London
36–39
St Paul’s Cathedral
40–43
Top 10 of Everything
44–77
London Highlights
A city of infinite colour and variety, London is both
richly historic, tracing its roots back over 2000
years, and unceasingly modern, at the forefront of
London’s Top 10
fashion, music and the arts. There is a fantastic

amount to interest and entertain the visitor here:
a selection of the best of the best is explored in
the following chapter. ! British Museum
The oldest museum
in the world, it contains a
National Gallery rich collection of treasures
and National @ and artifacts from every
Portrait Gallery corner of the globe (see
The nation’s most pp8–11).
important art collections
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The enormous and varied

collection here explores
both the geology of
the Earth and the
incredible range
of life it supports
(see pp22–3).
$ Tate Modern and Tate Britain

London’s two Tate galleries house
a superb collection of international art.
Tate Modern focuses on contemporary
work after 1900, and Tate Britain on art
from 1500 to the present (see pp18–21).
6 Preceding pages Tower Bridge

^ Science Museum
A huge museum
with fascinating
exhibits that
demonstrate and
explain the wonders
London’s Top 10
of science (see pp24–5).
Buckingham Palace
&
The official home of the
Queen, Buckingham Palace * Westminster Abbey
and Parliament
is one of the city’s most Square
recognizable landmarks, This royal abbey has, since
where the changing of the 1066, been the place where
Queen’s guard happens all Britain’s monarchs have
every day (see pp26–7). been crowned (see pp32–5).
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) St Paul’s
Cathedral
Sir Christopher
Wren’s Baroque
masterpiece, St
Paul’s still dominates
the City skyline and has
been the setting of many
great ceremonial events
(see pp40–43).
7
British Museum @ Mummified Cat
Cats and sacred cows
The world’s oldest museum has no fewer than 6 were mummified in Ancient
Egypt. This cat comes from
million items spanning 1.8 million years of world Abydos and dates from
civilization. The collection was started with the around 30 BC. Many
London’s Top 10
bequest of a physician and antiquarian, Sir Hans Egyptian deities took

on animal shapes, as
Sloane, in 1753. In the 18th and 19th centuries seen on wall paint-
travellers and emissaries, such as Captain James ings and other
Cook, Lord Elgin, Lord Curzon and Charles artifacts.
Townley, added treasures from around the
world. The present, Classical style building was
completed around 1850. In 2000 the central
courtyard was opened as a public space, the 2
Great Court (see p11).
Top 10 Exhibits
1 Parthenon Sculptures
2 Mummified Cat
3 Ram in a Thicket
The British Museum façade 4 Mildenhall Treasure
There are three cafés 5 Rosetta Stone
6 Portland Vase 0
and one restaurant.
7 Rameses II
Picnics can be eaten 8 Mixtec-Aztec Mosaic Mask 9
in the forecourt by 9 Kwakwaka’wakw
the main entrance. 0 Amitabha Buddha
Highlights’ tours give
an introduction to ! Parthenon Sculptures
This spectacular 5th-
the collection. century BC frieze from the
Parthenon (below) was
The British Museum made under Pericles
shop sells repro- and shows a proces- 7
duction artifacts. sion in honour of 5
the goddess
Athena. It was
• Great Russell Street obtained in 1779
WC1 by Lord Elgin,
• Map L1 Ambassador to 1
• 020 7323 8000 Constantinople.
• www.thebritish
museum.ac.uk
• Open 10am–5:30pm
daily. Great Court:
Open 9am–6pm
Sun–Wed, 9am–11pm
Thu–Sat
• Guided tours at
10:30am, 1pm & 3pm £ Ram in a Thicket
Decorated with shells
daily Key to Floorplan and gold leaf, this priceless
Lower floor ornament comes from Ur
in Sumer, one of the world’s
Ground floor earliest civilizations. Games
Upper floor and musical instruments
are also displayed.
8 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

$ Mildenhall Treasure
Some of the greatest * Mixtec-Aztec
Mosaic Mask
early English treasures are Made by Mixtec artisans
34 silver plates from the for the Aztec royal court
4th century, found at in Mexico, this mosaic
Mildenhall in Suffolk. Their mask (below) is believed
London’s Top 10
lively decorations include sea to be of the god Quetzal-
nymphs, satyrs and Hercules. coatl, and dates from the
15th century.
% Rosetta Stone
In 196 BC Egyptian priests
wrote a decree on this tablet in
both Greek and in Egyptian
hieroglyphics. Found in 1799, it
proved crucial in deciphering
3
Egyptian pictorial writing.
( Kwakwaka’wakw
The large, carved and
painted wood thunder-
bird from North America
6
was used as an anvil for
breaking coppers (a form
8 ^ Portland Vase
Sold by Britain’s
of currency) at potlatches
(ceremonies of Pacific
9 ambassador to Naples, Coast peoples in which
Sir William Hamilton, to chiefs destroyed their
the Duchess of Portland, worldly goods).
this exquisite 1st-century
blue-and-opaque glass
vase comes from a tomb ) Amitabha Buddha
This impressive
in Rome, and was stoneware Buddha dates
probably made by a from around AD 585,
Greek craftsman. during the Chinese Sui
Dynasty, when Buddhism
became the state religion.
Museum Guide
Free maps are available
and guides are on sale
at the information desk
in the Great Court and
shops. Otherwise start
to the left of the main
entrance with the
Assyrian, Egyptian,
& Rameses II
This is all that remains
Greek and Roman
galleries. The North
of the colossal granite Wing ethnography
statue of Rameses II and Asian galleries
(c1275 BC) from his provide a change from
memorial temple at Classical material, as
Thebes. The statue was do the early British,
acquired in the late 18th medieval and Renais-
century by Charles sance collections on
Townley, British the east side.
ambassador to Rome.
For more London museums See pp48–9 9

London’s Top 10
Left Classical colonnade, British Museum Right Lindow Man
British Museum Collections

! Middle East
Some 6,000 years of 8
history start with the spec- 2
tacular carved reliefs from the 6
Assyrian palace of Nineveh.
4
7
@ Ancient Egyptian and
Sudanese 5
9
Mummies and sarcophagi are 0
Ancient
among 70,000 objects in one of Greek
the world’s greatest collections. vase
3 1
£ Greek and
Roman Antiquities Floorplan
Highlights from the Classical world
(c.3000 BC to c.AD 400) include modern day, this collection in-
the Parthenon sculptures and cludes Lindow Man, a 2,000-year-
exquisite Greek and Roman vases. old body found preserved in a
peat bog, the Sutton Hoo Ship
$ Japanese and
Oriental Antiquities
Burial and some fine decorative
arts including medieval jewellery
Buddhist limestone reliefs from and Renaissance clocks.
India, Chinese antiquities, Islamic
pottery and a Japanese collection
so large it has to be shown on a & Coins and Medals
A comprehensive collection
rotating basis. of more than 750,000 coins and
medals dating from the 7th
Native Canadian
gull mask
century BC to the present day.
* Prints and Drawings

Priceless prints and drawings
from the Renaissance form part
of this rotating collection.
% Ethnography
An incredible 350,000 objects ( Enlightenment
This exhibition features the
from indigenous peoples around museum’s 18th-century collec-
the world. The Africa gallery holds tions from around the world.
a fine array of art and artifacts.
^ Prehistory and Europe ) The Joseph Hotung

Great Court Gallery
Covering a long period from This small gallery is used for
prehistoric cave dwellers to the temporary exhibitions.
10 For more London museums See pp48–9

Top 10
Library Readers
The Great Court
A magnificent glass-roofed addition encloses the
1 Karl Marx (1818–83) heart of the British Museum. Opened in December
German revolutionary 2000, the Great Court was designed by architect
London’s Top 10
2 Mahatma Gandhi Sir Norman Foster. In the centre of the Court is the
(1869–1948), Indian leader domed Reading Room, built in 1857. Holding one
3 Oscar Wilde (1854–1900), of the world’s most important collections of books
playwright and wit and manuscripts, the Reading Room has been the
4 Virginia Woolf workplace of some of London’s greatest writers
(1882–1941), and is now being used as a temporary exhibition
Bloomsbury novelist space until 2012. The Great Court is the capital’s
5 WB Yeats (1865–1939), largest covered square and contains shops,
Irish poet and playwright cafés and the British Museum’s main ticket and
6 Thomas Hardy information desk, supplying visitors with everything
(1840–1928), English they need for an informed visit.
novelist
7 George Bernard Shaw
(1856–1950), Irish
playwright
8 EM Forster (1879–1970),
English novelist
9 Rudyard Kipling
(1865–1936) Poet,
novelist and chronicler
Rooftop View of the Great Court
of Empire In the heart of the city, the top of the museum’s
0 Leon Trotsky (1879–1940), Reading Room dome can be seen above the
Russian revolutionary rooftops, protruding from the impressive glass
roof of the Great Court.
The Reading Room at the centre of the Great Court
11
National Gallery
The National Gallery has around 2,300 pictures,
from the early Renaissance to the Impressionists
(1250–1900), forming one of the greatest col-
London’s Top 10
lections in the world. Containing work by the

most important painters of the main European ! The Virgin and Child
with St Anne and St
schools, the collection was acquired by the John the Baptist
government from John Julius Angerstein in 1824, This full-size drawing for a
painting, known as a cartoon
and moved to the present building (also home to (from cartone, a large
the National Portrait Gallery, see pp14–15) in sheet of paper), is one of
1838. The Sainsbury Wing, built in the masterpieces of the
Renaissance, by Leonardo
1991, houses the excellent early da Vinci (1452–1519).
Renaissance collection.
Top 10 Paintings
1 The Virgin and Child with 9 8
St Anne and St John
National Gallery façade the Baptist
There is a café and 2 The Arnolfini Portrait
a good restaurant. 3 The Ambassadors
4 The Wilton Diptych
The Sainsbury Wing 5 The Rokeby Venus
has an excellent art 6 Mystic Nativity
bookshop. 7 The Sunflowers
8 A Young Woman Standing at a Virginal
Guided tours and
9 A Woman Bathing in a Stream
audio guides are
available. 0 Bathers at La Grenouillière
Explore the collec-

tion on screen with
ArtStart, which 4
is situated in the
Sainsbury Wing.
• Trafalgar Square WC2 6 2

• Map L4
• 020 7747 2885
• www.nationalgallery.
org.uk £ The
Ambassadors
• Open 10am–6pm Symbols, such as the
Sat–Thu (10am–9pm Fri) Sainsbury
foreshortened skull Wing
• Free
• Free guided tours at
11:30am and 2:30pm
@ The Arnolfini
Portrait
foretelling death,
abound in this painting
entrance
One of the most famous by Hans Holbein (1533).

daily (also 7pm Fri)
paintings from the exten-
sive Flemish collection is Key to Floorplan
this unusual and masterly
13th–15th century
portrait of an Italian banker
and his wife in Bruges 16th century
(above). Jan van Eyck
(c.1385–1441) brought oil 17th century
painting to a new and 18th–early 20th century
colourful height.

% The Rokeby Venus
Painted in Rome to replace a lost
Venetian painting, The Rokeby Venus (left)
is the only nude by Diego Velázquez (1599–
1660), court painter to Spain’s Philip IV.
London’s Top 10
^ Mystic Nativity
Feminine grace has never been depicted
better than by the painter Sandro Botticelli
(1445–1510). Painted in a centennial year,
Mystic Nativity reflects his own anxieties,
with an inscription from Revelation.
( AinWoman Bathing
a Stream
This portrait by Rembrandt
(1606–69) was painted
5 when his technical
powers were at their
0 height, and shows his
striking brushwork and
mastery of earthy colours.
Getty
7 entrance
Trafalgar
Square
entrance
1
3
& The Sunflowers Bathers at La
This work was painted ) Grenouillière
in Arles in France during Claude Monet (1840–
a period of rare optimism 1926), the original
while Van Gogh (1853–90) Impressionist, explored
was awaiting the arrival of the effect of light on
$ The Wilton
Diptych
his hero, the avant-garde
painter Paul Gauguin.
water at La Grenouillière
(above), a popular bathing
A highlight of Gothic art, spot on the Seine, where
this exquisite English royal he worked alongside
painting (below), by an Auguste Renoir.
unknown artist, shows
Richard II being recom-
Gallery Guide
mended to the Virgin by
saints John the Baptist, The gallery is divided
Edward and Edmund. into four areas. The
Sainsbury Wing contains
the Early Renaissance
collection, with paintings
from 1250 to 1500. The
* AStanding
Young Woman
at a
West Wing displays
works from 1500 to
Virginal 1600, the North Wing
Peace and calm rule the 1600–1700, and the
works of the Dutch painter East Wing 1700–1900.
Jan Vermeer (1632–75). Although the main
Many of his interiors entrance is on Trafalgar
(above) were painted in Square, the Sainsbury
his home in Delft, but it Wing makes a more
has never been possible sensible starting point.
to identify his models.
For more London galleries See pp50–51 13

National Portrait Gallery
This is one of the most unexpectedly pleasing
galleries in London. Unrelated to the neighbouring ! Queen Elizabeth I
This anonymous
National Gallery, it opened in 1856. Well-known portrait is one of several
London’s Top 10
names can be put to some not-so-well-known of Elizabeth I, who

presided over England’s
faces, and there are some fascinating paintings Renaissance (1533–1603).
from Tudor times to the present day. Royalty is The Tudor rooms are the
depicted from Richard II (1367–1400) to Queen most satisfying in the
gallery, and they contain
Elizabeth II, and the collection also holds a 1554 two cases of miniature
miniature, the oldest self-portrait in oils in England. paintings, a popular
The displays are changed regularly so paintings genre of the time.
from the collection are not always on view.

Top 10 Portraits
1 Queen Elizabeth I
2 William Shakespeare
Royal coat of arms, main 3 The Brontës
gallery entrance 4 The Whitehall Mural
The Portrait 5 George Gordon, 6th Lord Byron
Restaurant has 6 Horatio Nelson
great views across 7 Charles II of England
Trafalgar Square, 8 Sir Walter Raleigh
down Whitehall 9 Germaine Greer
to Parliament. 0 Prince William of Wales: Prince
Henry of Wales
The Gallery
bookshop stocks
fashion, costume, @ William
Shakespeare
history and This is the only portrait
biography titles. of Britain’s famous
playwright known with
The ground-floor certainty to have been
gift shop has good painted during his
postcards. lifetime (1564–1616).
A range of talks and

free music events
take place on Thurs-
days and Fridays.
• St Martin’s Place WC2

• Map L3
• 020 7312 2463
• www.npg.org.uk
• Open 10am–6pm The Brontës
Sat–Wed, 10am–9pm Found in a drawer #
Thu–Fri in 1914, this portrait of
• Free (separate charge the great literary sisters,
for some exhibitions) Charlotte, Emily and
Anne Brontë, from York-
shire, was painted by
their brother, Branwell.
He appears as a faint
image behind them.
14
5
Key to Floorplan 76
2
Ground floor 8
1 4
First floor 0 3
Second floor 9
London’s Top 10
$ The Whitehall Mural
This cartoon of Henry VII
and his son Henry VIII by Hans
Holbein (1537) was drawn for Germaine Greer
a large mural in the Palace ( The feminist author
of Whitehall, lost when the of The Female Eunuch
palace burnt down in 1698. is brilliantly captured
(below) by Portuguese
George Gordon, artist Paula Rego, the
6th Lord Byron % first artist-in-residence at
This painting of Lord the National Gallery.
Byron (1788–1824), by
Thomas Phillips, depicts
the poet and champion of
liberty in Albanian dress.
He died fighting with
Greek insurgents
against the Turks.
^ Horatio Nelson
This 1799 portrait
(below) by Guy Head
depicts Nelson after the
Battle of the Nile. Apart
from Queen Victoria and ) Prince William
of Wales; Prince
the Duke of Wellington, Henry of Wales
he was painted more Commissioned in 2009,
often than any other this portrait was painted
British figure in history. from life by Nicola Jane
(“Nicky”) Philipps. It shows
the Princes wearing the
dress uniform of the
Household Cavalry (Blues
and Royals).
Gallery Guide
The gallery’s three floors
are arranged chronologi-
cally. Take the escalator
to the second floor and
start with the Tudor and
Stuart galleries (1–8).
& Charles
England
II of
Men and women of arts,
Produced around 1680 by science and industry
from the 18th and early
English portrait painter
Thomas Hawker, this * Sir Walter Raleigh
This portrait was paint- 19th century are in
painting depicts King ed in 1602 when military galleries 9 to 20. The
Charles II towards the and naval commander and first floor has eminent
end of his life, looking writer Raleigh was at the Victorians and early pho-
rather lascivious and a height of his renewed tographs. The balcony
little glum. The image favour with Queen and ground-floor
is not a particularly Elizabeth I. The image, by galleries have 20th- and
attractive one but it is an unknown artist, depicts 21st-century works.
an important one. Raleigh with his son.

London Eye
An amazing feat of engineering, the world’s tallest
cantilevered observation wheel offers fascinating £ Canada Tower
London’s tallest
views over the whole of London. Towering over the building is at Canary
London’s Top 10
Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament, it was Wharf (see p153) in the
heart of Docklands, the
built to celebrate the Millennium year, and has East London business
proved enormously popular. Its 32 enclosed and finance centre. It
capsules each hold 25 people and offer total stands in the middle of
the Isle of Dogs, in an
visibility in all directions. A flight on the London area formerly occupied
Eye takes 30 minutes and, on a clear day, you by the West India Docks.
can see up to 40 km (25 miles) across the
capital and the south of England.
Top 10 Sights
1 Houses of Parliament
2 Wren Churches
3 Canada Tower
4 Tower 42
5 BT Tower
Observation capsule
6 Windsor Castle
There are two cafés 7 Heathrow
in County Hall. 8 Alexandra Palace
9 Crystal Palace
Tickets are available
0 Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
on the day but
advanced booking is
advisable, especially
at weekends and in
the school holidays.
Binoculars are rented

out in the ticket hall.
After-dark flights
make the city look
romantic.
• South Bank SE1

• Map N5
• 0870 5000 600
• www.londoneye.com
• Open Oct–Apr: 10am–
8pm daily; May–Sep: ! Houses of
Parliament
10am–9pm daily (9:30pm The London Eye rises
Jul–Aug). Ticket office high above the Houses of
opens 9:30am daily.
Closed 25 Dec and
Parliament (see p34) on
the far side of the Thames. @ Wren Churches
The dome of St Paul’s
early Jan From here you can look (see pp40–43) stands out as
• Prices vary. Reductions down on Big Ben and see the star of the City churches.
for children, the disabled the Commons Terrace, Pricking the sky around it are
and senior citizens where Members of the spires of Wren’s other 31
• Timed tickets on the Parliament and the House churches, such as St Bride’s,
hour and half-hour of Lords drink, dine and the tallest, on which wedding
discuss policy by the river. cakes have been modelled.

$ Tower 42
Built for the National Westminster ( Crystal Palace
This BBC transmis-
Bank, this was the tallest building in London sion mast to the south of
until overtaken by Canada Tower. The fact the city (below) is near
that it stands out shows that the City is still the site of the 1851 Great
relatively unspoiled by high-rise buildings. Exhibition “Crystal Palace”
London’s Top 10
that was moved here in
% BT Tower
Built for the Post Office in 1961–5,
1852 and burned down
spectacularly in 1936.
this 190-m (620-ft) tower (left) is a
television, radio and telecommunications
tower. At the height of terrorist activity in
the 1970s, the revolving restaurant at the
top was closed. It is due to reopen in 2011/12.
) Queen
Elizabeth II Bridge
On a clear day you can
just make out the lowest
downstream crossing on
the Thames, a huge sus-
pension bridge at Dartford,
some 32 km (20 miles)
away. Traffic flows north in
a tunnel under the river,
south over the bridge.
Millennium
Legacy
The London Eye was
one of a number of
nationwide projects
^ Windsor Castle
Windsor Castle sits & Heathrow
To the west of the
designed for the
Millennium. The focus in
by the Thames to the city, London’s main airport London was on the
west of London (below). is one of the busiest enormous Millennium
The largest occupied international airports in the Dome, a spectacular
castle in the world, it is world. The Thames acts structure built in
still a favourite residence as a kind of runway, as Greenwich to house a
of the royal family. planes line up overhead national exhibition.
to begin their descent. Other projects were
Tate Modern (see
* Alexandra Palace
The world’s first
pp18–19) and the
Millennium Bridge, the
high-definition television Waterloo Millennium
broadcasting service was Pier, the Great Court at
transmitted by the BBC the British Museum
from Alexandra Palace on (see pp8–11) and the
2 November 1936. There opening up of Somerset
is an ice hockey rink and House (see p99).
exhibition halls here.
17
Tate Modern
Affiliated with Tate Britain (see pp20–21), one of
London’s most exciting galleries is housed within
the old Bankside power station, on a prime
London’s Top 10
riverside site opposite the City. Large enough for

huge installations, its many galleries provide a
light, airy space for the Tate’s collection of
international modern art. This includes works
Three Dancers
by Dalí, Picasso, Matisse, Rothko and Warhol as $
Pablo Picasso (1881–
well as work by many acclaimed contemporary 1973) was noted for the
artists. The displays are changed frequently. different painting styles he
mastered as he pushed the
boundaries of Modern
Top 10 Exhibits Art. Three Dancers (above)
1 The Snail marks the beginning of a
new major phase in his work.
2 The Acrobat
and His Partner
3 Whaam!
4 Three Dancers
Bankside power station,
now home to Tate Modern 5 Coffee
6 Suicide
There is a great view
7 Summertime No. 9A
from the restaurant
8 The Reckless
on level 7. The Café on
level 2 overlooks the Sleeper
gardens. The Espresso 9 Fish
Bar on level 4 has a 0 Spatial Concept
riverside balcony. “Waiting”
With more than

10,000 titles, the ! The Snail
This 1953
Turbine Hall book- cutout is one of
shop claims to be Henri Matisse’s
the largest art (1869–1954) final
bookshop in London. works, completed
whilst bed-ridden.
Daily events of The paper spirals
cinema, video,
represent a
snail’s shell.
talks and tours
are advertised in @ The Acrobat
and His Partner
the main hall.
Fernand Léger (1881–
1955) completed this
• Bankside SE1 painting (above) in
• 020 7887 8888 1948, months before
• www.tate.org.uk attending a Communist
• Map R4
• Open 10am–6pm Sun– £ Whaam!
This 1963 painting (above)
-sponsored peace
congress. The circus
Thu, 10am–10pm Fri–Sat. by Roy Lichtenstein (1923–97) is portrayed as a
Closed 24–26 Dec is based on an image from symbol of energy.
• Free (admission charge All American Men of War,
for temporary exhibitions) published by DC Comics in
• A boat service 1962. He was inspired by
connects with Tate comics or advertisements,
Britain (see p20) presenting powerful scenes in
an impersonal, detached way.
18
% Coffee The Reckless
Pierre Bonnard (1867– * Sleeper ) Spatial Concept
“Waiting”
1947) frequently painted René Magritte (1898– The Italian-Argentine
life at the dining table. 1967) painted this work artist Lucio Fontana
In this 1915 canvas, (below) in 1928, during (1899–1968) began to
the artist portrayed his a period in which he cut canvases in 1959.
London’s Top 10
wife Marthe sipping explored Surrealism and Although these cuts were
coffee with her pet Freudian symbolism. A carefully premeditated,
dachshund by her side, man sleeps in an alcove they were executed
suggesting an intimate above a dark sky and a in an instant. In this
domestic routine. tablet embedded with work, Spatial Concept
everyday objects, as if “Waiting” (below), the
Suicide dreamed by the sleeper. cut erupts from the
This painting by ^ surface, giving the
George Grosz (1893– impression of a gesture
1959) reflects the artist’s towards the viewer in a
disillusionment with way that is at once both
German society energetic and threatening.
especially during
World War I.
( Fish
Constantin Brancusi
(1876–1957) created Fish
in 1926. This sculpture
Gallery Guide
presents a bronze “fish”
on a polished disc above The main entrance is
a wooden base. Brancusi down a ramp into the
was known for his huge Turbine Hall below
ability to capture the ground level, on level 1,
essential qualities of his where the coat check,
subjects in elementary, information and main
abstract forms. shop are. You can also
enter the gallery on the
ground floor, level 2,
by the Café or by the
Millennium Bridge. The
& Summertime
No. 9A
main themed galleries
are on level 3 (material
The American Jackson gestures; poetry and
Pollock (1912–56) was the dream) and level 5,
pioneer of Action Painting. which includes a
He carried out his first learning zone. Temporary
“drip” painting in 1947, exhibitions are on level
pouring paint on to huge 4, and level 7 has a
canvases on the floor. restaurant with great
Summertime No. 9A views of the Thames .
(below) dates from 1948. As with many London
galleries, Tate’s works
of art are sometimes
moved temporarily,
loaned out or removed
for restoration.

Tate Britain
Wooded
Opened in 1897 as the national gallery of British art, £ Landscape with
the magnificent collection at London’s first Tate gallery a Peasant Resting
ranges from 1500 to the present day. Its founder was Thomas Gainsborough
London’s Top 10
Henry Tate (1819–99) who made his fortune from sugar. (1727–88) was a
portrait and landscape
The collection contains works by all Britain’s major painter and a favourite
painters, and was greatly added to by J M W Turner. of the Royal Family.
Paintings are often moved to Tate’s other galleries, His family groups in
landscapes are among
loaned out or removed for restoration. The works on the finest “Conversa-
these pages, therefore, may not always be on display. tion pieces” in English
art. An artistic inter-
Top 10 Paintings pretation of his native
1 Norham Castle, Sunrise Suffolk, this is one of
his earliest landscapes,
2 The Deluge painted in 1747.
3 Wooded Landscape
with a Peasant Resting
4 Three Ladies Adorning
a Term of Hymen
Tate Britain’s grand portico 5 The Lady of Shalott
6 Elohim Creating Adam
Good basement café.
7 Girl with a White Dog
Excellent restaurant,
8 Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose
with good wine list. 9 Pink and Green Sleepers
0 Three Studies for Figures
Free guided tours at the Base of a Crucifixion
daily, weekly talks
and films shown
monthly.
Comprehensive art
bookshop.
Free cloakroom.
• Millbank SW1
• Map E5 ! Norham
Castle, Sunrise
• 020 7887 8888 J M W Turner (1775– $ Three Ladies Adorning
a Term of Hymen
• www.tate.org.uk 1851) was the great Joshua Reynolds (1723–92)
• Open 10am–5:50pm genius of English was the first president of the
daily. Late opening first landscape painting. Royal Academy and a painter
Fri of the month until This work typifies his in the “Grand Manner” – as
10pm. Closed 24–26 Dec use of abstraction and typified by this painting
• Free (admission charge luminosity of colour. (above). He raised the interna-
for most temporary tional status of British art.
exhibitions) The Deluge
• Tate-to-Tate boat Irish artist Francis @
service travels between Danby (1793–1861)
Tate Britain and Tate moved to London
Modern every 40 from Bristol in 1824,
minutes from Millbank where he painted
Pier outside Tate Britain large-scale biblical
subjects as well as
fantasy landscapes,
such as this work.

% The
Lady of ) Three Studies for
Figures at the
Shalott Base of a Crucifixion
Educated at Leading light of the Soho
the Royal arts scene, Francis Bacon
Academy (1910–1992) was uncom-
London’s Top 10
Schools in promising in his view of
London, John life. When first shown,
William this series of paintings
Waterhouse caused an immediate
(1849–1917) famously sensation, shocking
revived the literary
themes of the Pre- ^ Elohim
Creating Adam
audiences with their
savage imagery. They have
Raphaelites, as seen in Born in London and trained become some of his best-
this piece. Waterhouse’s at the Royal Academy known works (below).
subject is taken from School, poet, mystic,
Lord Alfred Tennyson’s illustrator and engraver
tragic poem of the William Blake (1757–1827)
same name. claimed to be guided by
visions. Elohim Creating
Adam is typical of his
work, of which the Tate
has a large collection.
Gallery Guide
The permanent
collection occupies
& Girl
Dog
with a White
three-quarters of the
This picture (above) by main floor. Starting in
Lucian Freud (b1922) the northwest corner, it
shows the artist’s wife follows a broad chrono-
while pregnant. The style logical sweep from the
of the painting has roots 16th century to the
in the linear portraiture of present. The collection
the 19th-century French is arranged into rooms
painter Ingres. exploring historical
themes interspersed
with displays devoted
to single major artists.
Impressive loan exhibi-
tions covering all
manner of British art
are installed in the
remaining quarter of the
main floor and in the
six new galleries on the
* Carnation,
Lily, Rose
Lily,
( Pink and Green
Sleepers lower floor. The Turner
John Singer Sargent One of several 20th- Bequest, some 300 oil
(1856–1925) moved to century artists from paintings and about
Britain from Paris in 1885 Yorkshire, Henry Moore 20,000 watercolours
and adopted some of the (1898–1986) was an out- by J M W Turner, is
Impressionist techniques standing sculptor whose displayed in the
established by his friend, work is on public display adjoining Clore Gallery,
Claude Monet. The title around London. This with oil paintings and
of this work is from a drawing by Moore shows watercolours on view.
popular song of the time. two sleeping figures.

Natural History Museum
There are some 70 million specimens in the
Natural History Museum’s fascinating collections. ! The Vault
The museum’s
Originally the repository for items brought home extensive collection of
London’s Top 10
by Charles Darwin and Captain Cook’s botanist, gemstones, rocks and

minerals includes brilliant
Joseph Banks, among others, the museum combines red Rhodochrosite from
traditional displays with innovative, hands-on the USA. The displays of
exhibits. With kid-pleasers such as the impressive glittering and colourful
stones and rocks include
dinosaur collection, it remains one of London’s most descriptions of how we
popular museums. Still a hot-house of research, depend on them.
the museum employs 300 scientists and librarians.
Top 10 Exhibits
1 The Vault
2 Earthquake Simulator
3 Journey Through the Globe
4 Attenborough Studio
5 Model Baby
6 Water Cycle Video Wall
4
7 Fossils
Main entrance 8 Blue Whale
Try the restaurant
9 Dinosaurs 0 8
in the green zone, 0 Darwin Centre
or the other two
cafés and snack bars.
@ Earthquake
Simulator
A number of different The Power Within 5
tours are available, looks at volcanoes 9
including a visit to and earthquakes.
the outdoor Wildlife Experience a
Garden. Details at simulation of the
the Central Hall 1995 Kobe earth-
information desk. quake in a Japanese 7
supermarket (below).
6
• Cromwell Road SW7
• Map B5
• 020 7942 5000
• www.nhm.ac.uk
• Open 10am–5:50pm
daily. Last admission
5:30pm $ Attenborough
Studio
• Closed 24–26 Dec On the ground floor
• Free of the Darwin Centre,
the Attenborough
Studio is a state-of-
the-art audio-visual
£ Journey Through
the Globe
facility with 64 seats.
The venue hosts
Approach the red zone by an events, films and
escalator that travels through talks covering all
a giant globe. The model is aspects of life on
made of iron, zinc and copper to earth as well as
symbolize the Earth’s composition. scientific discovery.
22
% Model Baby
A giant model of an unborn baby in the Human
Biology galleries demonstrates sounds heard in
the womb. Other hands-on exhibits test abilities and
reactions and show how physical
characteristics are inherited.
London’s Top 10
^ Water Cycle Video Wall
A semi-spherical video wall in
the Ecology Gallery shows the ( Dinosaurs
T. Rex, one of the
water cycle and how it links all life museum’s impressively
on the planet. A walk-through leaf life-like animatronic
shows how plants make oxygen. models, lurches and
roars in this hugely
popular gallery. More
traditional exhibits of
fossilized skeletons and
eggs are also on display.
) Darwin Centre
One of the centre’s
many attractions is Cocoon
(left), a permanent
2 exhibition where visitors
can see incredible insect
and plant specimens as
well as world leading
scientists at work.
Key to Floorplan
Ground floor
First floor
Second floor
Museum Guide
1
The Natural History
* Blue Whale
The Mammal gallery
Museum is divided into
four distinct sections:
houses this fascinating the blue zone, which
exhibit, where both includes the dinosaur
3 modern mammals and gallery; the green zone,
their fossil relatives are which includes the
dwarfed in comparison ecology and creepy-
to the astounding life- crawlies galleries; the
sized model of a blue orange zone, which
whale, the largest includes a wildlife
mammal in the world. garden; and the red
& Fossils
Marine reptiles that
zone, which incorporates
the geological displays.
lived at the time of the The ornately
dinosaurs have survived embellished Cromwell
in some remarkable Road entrance leads to
fossils, such as the the imposing central hall
pregnant female with its grand staircase.
Ichthyosaur, found in a An additional entrance
Dorset garden, which on Exhibition Road
lived 187–178 million leads to the red zone.
years ago.

Science Museum
Packed with exciting hands-on exhibits, this £ Apollo 10
Command Module
huge museum explores the fascinating world The Apollo 10 Command
of science through centuries of scientific and Module, which went around
London’s Top 10
technological development. It shows British the moon in May 1969, is

on display, as is a replica
inventiveness leading the world in the Industrial of the Apollo 11 Lunar
Revolution, with spinning looms and steam Lander. Buzz
engines, navigation and early flight. It also has Aldrin and Neil
Armstrong
displays on contemporary science and cutting- stepped onto
edge technologies, with numerous interactive the moon from
exhibits in the hi-tech Wellcome Wing. the original
in July 1969.
Top 10 Exhibits
1 Exploring Space
2 The Secret Life of the Home
3 Apollo 10 Command Module
4 Harle Sykes Red Mill Engine
5 Puffing Billy
Science Museum façade 6 Babbage’s Difference Engine
There is a restaurant, 7 Who am I?
several cafés and a 8 Launchpad
picnic area where 9 IMAX 3D Cinema
you can eat your 0 Pattern Pod 6
own food.
Visitor information
touch screens 8
throughout the
museum give details
of exhibits.
The museum store is

an excellent place to
buy innovative gifts.
• Exhibition Road SW7

• Map B5
• 0870 870 4868
• www.science ! Exploring Space
Rockets, satellites,
museum.org.uk
space probes and landers
• Open 10am–6pm daily can all be explored as well
• Free (separate charge as learning about Sputnik,
for special exhibitions,
the world’s first satellite,
simulator rides and IMAX
how we sent spacecrafts
cinema)
to other planets and
walked on the moon. $ Harle Sykes Red
Mill Engine
This immaculate steam
@ The Secret Life
of the Home
engine (above) can some-
times be seen up and
This gallery contains a running. It’s just one exhibit
wacky variety of house- in the Energy Hall gallery,
hold gadgets and gizmos, which includes one of James
from washing machines Watt’s original 1788 rotative
to burglar alarms. steam engines.

% Puffing Billy
Puffing Billy (left) ( IMAX 3D Cinema
The cinema shows
is the world’s oldest 2D and 3D films on a
remaining steam screen higher than four
locomotive. It was built double-decker buses. An
in England in 1813 and impressive six-channel
London’s Top 10
used to transport coal. surround sound system
George Stephenson’s will totally immerse
famous 1829 Rocket, the you in the action.
first locomotive engine to
pull passenger carriages,
is also on display.
^ Babbage’s Difference Engine

The Computing and Mathematics
galleries on the second floor display a
model of the Difference Engine No 2.
Designed by Charles Babbage (1791–
1871), it was the forerunner of the
modern computer. ) Pattern Pod
Suitable for children
under eight, this multi-
sensory gallery introduces
7 9 0 ideas about patterns in
the world. The electronic
3 kaleidoscope and
interactive exhibits
make science fun.
5
2
4
Key to Floorplan
Museum Guide
Basement The museum is spread
Ground floor over seven floors.
Heavy machinery and
First floor large-scale museum
highlights are on the
Second floor
ground floor. Tele-
Who am I? communications,
& The upgraded Who Third floor
Fourth floor
measuring time, and
am I? gallery presents agriculture and weather
the latest in brain Fifth floor are on the first floor.
science and genetics The Energy Gallery and
through a mixture of Wellcome Wing computing are on the
interactive exhibits and second floor, and health
object-rich displays.
* Launchpad
This hands-on gallery
and flight are on the
third. The fourth and
is aimed specifically at fifth floors are dedicated
children. In this area to medical history. At
(left), friendly “explainers” the west end of the
make key science building is the four-
principles fun and easy storey Wellcome Wing.
to understand.

Buckingham Palace
London’s most famous residence, and one of its
best recognised landmarks, Buckingham Palace Decorative lock on
was built as a town house for the first Duke of Palace gates
London’s Top 10
Buckingham around 1705. In 1825, George IV Top 10 Highlights

commissioned John Nash to extend the house into a
1 Changing of the Guard
substantial palace. Completed in 1840, it was first The Balcony
2
occupied by Queen Victoria in 1837. The extensive 3 Queen’s Gallery
front of the building was refaced by Sir Aston Webb 4 Grand Staircase
in 1913. The Palace is now home to the present 5 Throne Room
Queen and the State Rooms are open to the public 6 Picture Gallery
during summer. Many royal parks 7 State Ballroom
and gardens in London are also 8 Royal Mews
accessible to the public (see pp28–9). 9 Palace Garden
0 Brougham
Victoria Monument
Coincide your visit

with the Changing of
the Guard (see below).
• Buckingham Palace SW1

• Map J6 • 020 7766 7300
(booking line) • www.
royalcollection.org.uk ! Changing
the Guard
of
@ Th e Balcony
On special occasions, the
• State Apartments: Open The Palace guards, in Queen and other members of
Aug–Sep: 9:45am–6pm their familiar red tunics the Royal Family step on to the
daily (last adm 3:45pm). and tall bearskin hats, Palace balcony to wave to the
Admission: adults £17; stu- are changed at 11:30am crowds gathered below.
dents and over 60s £15.50; each morning (and
under 17s £9.75; family alternate days Aug–Apr,
ticket £44; under 5s free weather permitting). The
• Royal Mews: 020 7766 guards march to the
7302 Open Apr–Oct: Palace from the nearby
11am–4pm daily (last adm Wellington Barracks.
3:15pm). Admission: adults
£7.75; students and over
60s £7; under 17s £5;
under 5s free
• Queen’s Gallery: 020
7766 7301 Open 10am– £ Qu een’s Gallery
The gallery hosts a
5:30pm (last adm 4:30pm). changing programme of
Admission: adults £15; exhibitions of the Royal
students and over 60s Collection’s masterpieces,
£13.50; under 17s £8.75; including works by artists
under 5s free such as Johannes Vermeer
and Leonardo da Vinci.
26
$ Grand Staircase
The Ambassadors’
Entrance leads into the
Grand Hall. From here
the magnificent Grand
Staircase, with gilded
London’s Top 10
balustrades, rises to the
first floor where the
State Rooms are found.
% Throne Room
This houses the
thrones of Queen Eliza- ^ Picture Gallery
One of the largest & State Ballroom
Banquets for visiting
beth and Prince Philip rooms in the Palace, it heads of state are held
used for the coronation. has a barrel-vaulted glass here. The most glittering
Designed by John Nash, ceiling and a number of social event of the year
the room has a highly paintings from the Royal is in November, when
ornamented ceiling and Collection, including works 1,200 members of the
magnificent chandeliers. by Rembrandt (above), Diplomatic Corps arrive
Rubens and Van Dyck. in full court dress.
* Royal Mews
Caring for the Cleve- ( Palace Garden
The extensive Palace
Palace Life
land Bay and Windsor garden is an oasis for The official business of
Grey horses that pull the wildlife and includes a the monarchy takes
royal coach on state three-acre lake. There place in the Palace,
occasions, these are the are at least three Royal which has a staff of
finest working stables in garden parties each year, around 450. The Duke
Britain. The collection to which over 30,000 of Edinburgh, Duke of
of coaches, motorcars people attend (below). York, Prince Edward
and carriages includes and the Princess Royal
the magnificent Gold all have offices here.
State Coach, which The most senior member
was built in c.1760. of the Royal Household
is the Lord Chamberlain.
The Master of the
) Brougham
Every day a Household and the
horse-drawn Palace’s domestic
Brougham carriage staff organise many
sets out to collect functions every year,
and deliver royal including Investitures
packages around for recipients of awards
London, including which are given by
the Palace’s weekly the Queen.
copy of Country Life.
For more on royal London See pp54–5 27

Royal Parks and Gardens
Buckingham Palace overlooks two of London‘s
most central Royal Parks – St James’s and @ St James’s Park
London’s most elegant
Green Park – and is just a short walk from park (below) was laid out in
London’s Top 10
the 18th century by Capability

Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. Along
Brown. Its lake is home to
with the other London parks, these provide some 40 varieties of water-
year-round pleasure and an invaluable retreat fowl. It has an attractive café
and, in summer, lunchtime
for all who live, work and visit the city. Many
concerts are given on the
offer facilities for tennis, riding and boating, bandstand (see p113).
as well as opportunities for other activities.
Picnicking in the park while a band plays is
one of London’s greatest summer joys.
Top 10 Green Spaces

1 Hyde Park
2 St James’s Park
3 Kensington Gardens
4 Regent’s Park
5 Green Park
6 Greenwich Park
Statue of Peter Pan in 7 Richmond Park
Kensington Gardens
8 Primrose Hill
Most of the larger 9 Bushy Park
parks have a number 0 Grosvenor Square
of open-air cafés,
restaurants and ice-
cream stands.
Parks open at dawn

and close at sunset
(around 9:30pm in
summer). Don’t get
caught in the middle
of large parks just as £ Kensington Gardens
A continuation of Hyde
the sun goes down. Park, Kensington Gardens
was opened to the public
Open-air concerts, in 1841. Since 2000, the
festivals and other
events are regularly
! Hyde Park
One of the most
magical Diana, Princess of
Wales Memorial Play-
popular features of this ground (below) has proved
held in Hyde Park,
huge London park (above) a great hit with children.
Regent’s Park and St
(see p74) is its lake,
James’s Park in the the Serpentine,
summer months. with boats for rent
and a swimming
• Royal Parks HQ, area. Horses can be
The Old Police House, rented and ridden in
Hyde Park, London W2 the park. On Sundays
at Speakers’ Corner,
• Map C4
near Marble Arch,
• 020 7298 2000 you can get up on
• www.royalparks.org.uk a soapbox and
address the crowds
who gather there.
28 For more on royal London See pp54–5

^ Greenwich Park Bushy Park
The 0° longitude meri- ( Chestnut Sunday in
dian passes through the May, when the trees’
Royal Observatory blossoms are out, is
Regent’s Park Greenwich, located on one of the best times to
$ Home to London Zoo a hill in this leafy family come to Bushy Park,
London’s Top 10
and an open-air theatre, park. There are great near Hampton Court.
Regent’s Park (above) views of the Old Royal Highlights include the
is surrounded by John Naval College (below), and Arethusa “Diana” Fountain
Nash’s Classical terraces. over London (see p147). and Chestnut Avenue.
The fragrant Queen
Mary’s Rose Garden is
a delight (see p129).
& Richmond Park

Covering an area of ) Grosvenor Square
The hub of high
2,500 acres, this is by far society from the early
the largest Royal Park. 18th century until World
Herds of red and fallow War II, Grosvenor Square
deer (below) roam freely is the only London
across the heath. In late square that is owned by
spring, the Isabella the Crown. On its west
Plantation is a blaze of side stands the imposing
colourful rhododendrons. American Embassy.
The Royal Ballet School is
based in the White Lodge,
originally built for George
Sport for Kings
II in 1727. Much of the land of
London’s Royal Parks
% Green Park
Popular with
was taken from the
Church by Henry VIII in
office workers, this the 1530s, during the
small park (below) Reformation. He was a
has deckchairs for passionate hunter and
hire in summer. It filled Hyde, Green and
was once part of St James’s parks with
the grounds of St deer. Henry also hunted
James’s Palace. in Greenwich Park,
London’s oldest, having
* Primrose Hill
North of Regent’s
been founded in 1433.
From the late 17th
Park, Primrose Hill offers century, parks were land-
spectacular views of the scaped and gardens laid
city skyline from its 66-m out. In 1689 William and
(216-ft) summit. Once a Mary ordered the plant-
popular venue for duels, ing of Kensington Gar-
this small park was saved dens. In 1811 the Prince
from development in Regent and Nash built
1841 when it was the private estate that
taken over by the became Regent’s Park.
Crown Commissioners.
Following pages View from Trafalgar Square to Houses of Parliament 29

Westminster Abbey
A glorious example of Medieval architecture on a
truly grand scale, this former Benedictine abbey
church stands on the south side of Parliament
London’s Top 10
Square (see pp34–5). Founded in the 11th

century by Edward the Confessor, it survived the £ Poets’ Corner
This corner of the
Reformation and continued as a place of royal transept contains memo-
rials to many literary
ceremonials. Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation
giants, including Shakes-
was held here in 1953 and Princess Diana’s peare and Dickens.
funeral in 1997. Royals, deans, statesmen, poets
and writers are all buried or remembered here.
Top 10 Sights
1 St Edward’s Chapel
2 Nave
3 Poets’ Corner
4 Lady Chapel
5 Coronation Chair
6 Grave of Elizabeth I
The Abbey’s north transept The Choir
7
Hear the choir sing 8 Grave of the Unknown
at services at 5pm Warrior
every weekday,
3pm on Saturdays
9 Chapter House
and at the three 0 Cloisters
Sunday services.
Listen to free organ

! St Edward’s
Chapel
The shrine of Edward the
recitals at 5:45pm
Confessor (1003–66), last
every Sunday.
of the Anglo-Saxon kings,
lies at the heart of the
Guided tours and
Abbey. He built London’s
audio guides are
first royal palace at
available.
Westminster, and founded
the present Abbey.
• Broad Sanctuary SW1
• Map L6
• 020 7222 5152
• www.westminster-
abbey.org
• Abbey: open 9:30am–
3:30pm Mon–Fri (to $ Lady Chapel
The fan vaulting above the
6:30pm Wed), 9:30am– nave of this eastern addition
1:30pm Sat. Open Sun to the church is spectacular
for worship only. late Perpendicular (above).
Museum: open 10:30am– Built for Henry VII (1457–
4pm daily. Pyx Chamber 1509), it includes two side
and Chapter House: aisles and five smaller chapels
open 10am–4pm daily and is the home of the Order
• Admission: adults £15; of the Bath (see p36).
concessions £12; chil-
dren 11–17 £6 (under
11s free); for family @ Nave
At 32 m (102 ft), this is the tallest Gothic nave in
tickets see website England. Built by the great 14th-century architect Henry
Yevele, it is supported externally by flying buttresses.
32 Preceding pages View of Big Ben from Trafalgar Square

% Coronation Chair
This simple chair was 6
Abbey
Floorplan
made in 1301 for Edward 4
I. It is placed in front of 5
the high altar screen on 1 9
the 13th-century mosaic
London’s Top 10
pavement when used for 3
coronations.
7
^ Tomb of
Elizabeth I
2 0
England’s great 8
Protestant queen (1553–
1603) is buried on one
side of the Lady Chapel
while the tomb of her
Catholic rival, Mary Queen
of Scots (beheaded in
1587), is on the other
side. Mary’s remains were Cloisters
brought to the abbey by )The cloisters were
James I in 1612. located at the heart of
the former Benedictine
The Choir monastery and would
& The all-boy have been the mon-
Westminster Abbey astery’s busiest area.
Choir School, the only On the east side are
school in England the only remaining parts
devoted entirely to of the Norman church,
choristers, produces the the Pyx Chamber, where
choir which sings here coinage was tested in
every day. The present medieval times, and
organ was installed in the Undercroft, which
1937 and first used contains a museum.
at the coronation of
George VI.
Abbey History
A Benedictine monas-
tery was established by
St Dunstan (AD 909–
988) on what was the
marshy Isle of Thorney.
King Edward the Con-
fessor re-endowed the
monastery, and founded
the present church in
1065. William the Con-
querer was crowned
* Grave of the
Unknown Warrior
here in 1066. Henry III’s
The body of an unknown ( Chapter House

This octagonal build-
architect Henry of Reyns
rebuilt much of the
soldier from the battle- ing with a 13th-century church in 1245. The nave
fields of World War I tiled floor (above and left) was completed in 1376.
was buried here in is where the Abbey’s The eastern end of the
1920. He represents monks gathered. The church was extended by
Britain’s war dead. House of Commons met Henry VII who had the
here between Lady Chapel built. Finally,
1257 and 1542. It in 1734–45, the twin
is now run by the towers on the west
Abbey and can front were completed by
also be reached Nicholas Hawksmoor.
via Dean’s Yard.
For more London places of worship See pp46–7 33

Parliament Square
The spiritual and political heart of the city, the £ Big Ben
The huge Clock
Palace of Westminster was built here a thousand Tower of the Palace of
years ago as a royal household, seat of government Westminster is popularly
London’s Top 10
and abbey. The square was planned as part of the known as Big Ben. How-
ever, the name
rebuilding programme following a fire that destroyed actually refers to
the Palace in 1834. Usually known as the Houses of the clock’s 14-
Parliament, the new Palace of Westminster stands tonne bell, named
after Sir Benjamin
opposite Westminster Abbey. On the north side of the Hall, who was
square, Parliament Street leads to Whitehall and No.10 Chief Commis-
Downing Street, the Prime Minister’s residence. sioner of Works
when it was
installed in
Top 10 Sights 1858.
1 Westminster Abbey
2 Houses of Parliament
3 Big Ben
Detail above Central Hall 4 Westminster Hall
window 5 St Margaret’s Church
The basement café in 6 Winston Churchill Statue
Central Hall is a good 7 Central Hall
place for a snack. 8 Dean’s Yard
To avoid long lines 9 Jewel Tower
for the Strangers’ 0 Statue of Oliver Cromwell
Galleries go after
6pm Mon–Thu.
! Westminster
Abbey
• Parliament Square SW1 See pp32–3.
• Map M6
• www.parliament.uk
• The Strangers’ Galleries
at the Houses of Parlia-
ment have limited
seating for visitors during
debates. Times are given
at St Stephen’s gate, or
phone 020 7219 4272
• Tours can be arranged
through MPs at www. $ Westminster Hall
Westminster Hall (left) is
parliament.uk • Tickets for about all of the original palace
summer opening of that remained after the 1834
parliament are available fire. For centuries the high
from 0844 209 0382 court sat beneath its marvel-
lous hammerbeam roof.
Houses of Parliament
A Gothic revival building @
from 1870 by Sir Charles Barry
and Augustus Welby Pugin, the
Houses of Parliament cover 8
acres and have 1,100 rooms
around 11 courtyards. The
Commons Chamber (right) is
where Members of Parliament
sit and debate policy.
34
Plan of the Square
*
7 * ( 2 5 *
( 6 7
%5,'*(67
0 3
6
5 <
8$
67 0$5 *$
7 1&
7
5 4
London’s Top 10
6$
'
& Central Hall %5
2$
1 2
5( 76 7
This large assembly
hall, built in a Beaux
8 9
Arts style, was funded
by a collection among * Dean’s Yard
Buildings around
the Methodist Church this secluded square
who wanted to
celebrate the
were used by monks
before the Dissolution ( Jewel Tower
Built in 1365 to
centenary of their of the Monasteries in safeguard the treasure
founder John the 1530s which of Edward III, this is
Wesley (1703–91). closed their school an isolated survivor of
here. A new West- the 1834 fire. A small
minster School museum about the
was founded by history of parliament
Elizabeth I in is housed inside.
1560 and it
remains one of
Britain’s top ) Statue of Oliver
Cromwell
public schools. Oliver Cromwell (1599–
1658) presided over
England’s only republic,
which began after the
Civil War. He was buried
in Westminster Abbey,
but when the monarchy
was restored in 1660,
his corpse was taken
to Tyburn and hanged as
though he were a criminal.
Parliament
The 659 publicly elected
Members of Parliament
sit in the House of
Commons, where the
Prime Minister and his
or her government sits
% St Margaret’s
Church ^ Winston
Statue
Churchill on the right-hand side
of the Speaker, who
Winston Churchill was This powerful statue of ensures the House’s
among many eminent Britain’s wartime leader rules are obeyed. The
figures to marry (1874–1965), opposing “shadow”
in this 15th- dressed in his government sits on his
century church. famous coat, is left. The neighbouring
William Caxton one of several House of Lords is for
(1422–91), who statues in the an unelected upper
set up the first square. These chamber which has
printing press in include prime around 700 members
England, and Sir minister and limited powers.
Walter Raleigh, Benjamin Disraeli The Prime Minister
who established (1804–81), attends a weekly
the first British American presi- audience with the
colony in America, are dent Abraham Lincoln Queen, who today has
both buried here. Charles I (1809–65), and many other only a symbolic role.
is also remembered (right). statesmen and soldiers.
35
Tower of London
London’s great riverside fortress is usually
remembered as a place of imprisonment, but it
also has a more glorious past. Originally a moated
London’s Top 10
fort, the White Tower was built for William I (the

Conqueror) and begun around 1078. Enlarged
by later monarchs – including Henry VIII, who £ Yeoman Warders
Some 35 Yeoman
famously sent two of his wives to their deaths on Warders now include a
female Warder. Former
Tower Green – it became home to the city arsenal, non-commissioned
the Crown Jewels, a menagerie and the Royal Mint. military officers with
Long Service and Good
Conduct Medals, they
Top 10 Features wear uniforms dating
1 The White Tower from Tudor times.
2 Imperial State Crown
3 Yeoman Warders
4 The Bloody Tower
5 Chapel of St John
Royal Fusiliers’ Museum
the Evangelist
6 Ravens
Enjoy a meal at 7 Royal Armouries
the Tower’s café
8 Tower Green
or restaurant.
9 Traitors’ Gate
Allow at least two 0 Beauchamp Tower
hours for your visit.
• Tower Hill EC3

! The White Tower
The heart of the
• Map H4 fortress is a sturdy keep,
• 0844 482 7777 30 m (90 ft) tall with
• Open 9am–5pm walls 5 m (15 ft) thick. It
Tue–Sat (to 4:30pm was constructed under
winter), 10am–5:30pm William I, and completed
Sun & Mon (to 4:30pm in 1097. In 1240 it was
winter) whitewashed inside and
• Admission: adults £17; out, hence its name.
children 5–15 £9.50
(under 5s free); family
tickets (5 people) £47; % Chapel
St John
of
concessions £14.50 the Evangelist

The finest Norman
place of worship in
@ Imperial
State Crown
London (left), which
remains much as it
This is the most was when it was
dazzling of a dozen built, is on the
crowns in the Jewel upper floor of the
House. It has 2,800 White Tower. In
diamonds, and the
sapphire at its top $ The Bloody
Tower
1399, in preparation
for Henry IV’s coronation
is from the reign of The displays here explore procession, 40 noble knights
Edward the Confessor the dark history of the held vigil here. They then
(r.1042–66). The Bloody Tower where mur- took a purifying bath in an
crown was made for derous deeds, including adjoining room and Henry
the coronation of the killing of the Little made them the first Knights
George VI in 1937. Princes, took place. of the Order of the Bath.

^ Ravens
When ravens leave the Tower,
the saying goes, the building and 2
the monarchy will fall. There are
at least six ravens in residence, 0
looked after by the Ravenmaster. 8 5
London’s Top 10
3 17
& The Royal Armouries
This national collection of
4
6
arms and armour, shared with the 9
Royal Armouries’ other museums
in Leeds and Portsmouth, was
greatly expanded under Henry VIII. Plan of the Tower
) Beauchamp Tower
The displays in this
tower explore the
different experiences
of real prisoners of the
Tower, including Lady
Jane Grey and the Kray
twins. The tower takes
its name from Thomas
Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, who was im-
prisoned here between
1397–99 by Richard II.
Tower History
William I’s White Tower,
built by Gundolph,
Bishop of Rochester,
was intended to
defend London against
attacks – and to be a
visible sign to the
native Anglo-Saxon
population of the
conquering Normans’
power. Henry III
(r.1216–72) built the
inner wall with its 13
towers and brought
* Tower Green
The place of execution for the Crown Jewels
nobility, including Lady Jane Grey here. The city arsenal
(1554) and two of Henry VIII’s was kept here, and
wives – Katherine Howard (1542) under Henry VIII
and Anne Boleyn (1536). (r.1509–47) the Royal
Armouries were
improved. James I
(r.1603–25) was the
last monarch to stay
( Traitors’
Gate in residence. All
The oak and iron coinage in Great
watergate in the Britain was minted
outer wall (above) in the Outer Ward of
was used to bring the Tower until 1810
many prisoners to when the Royal Mint
the Tower, and was established
became known nearby, on Tower Hill.
as Traitors’ Gate.

London’s Top 10
Left Bell Tower Centre Apartment in the Bloody Tower Right Beauchamp Tower
Tower Prisoners
Sites of
! Bishop of Durham
The first political prisoner to imprison-
5
be held in the White Tower was ment 6
Ralph de Flambard, Bishop of 7 1
Durham. Locked up by Henry l in 3
1100, he was seen as responsible 40 2
for the unpopular policies of
9 8
Henry’s predecessor, William ll.
Anne Boleyn and Katherine
@ Henry Vl
During the Wars of the Roses,
Howard, are buried in the Chapel
Royal of St Peter ad Vincula.
between the rival families of York
and Lancaster, Henry VI was kept
in Wakefield Tower for five years, ^ The Dudley Family
Lord Dudley and his four
until restored to power in 1470. brothers were imprisoned (before
their execution) in the Beauchamp
£ The Little Princes

The alleged murder of
Tower for supporting Lady Jane
Grey’s 1554 claim to the throne.
Edward, 12, and Richard, 10, in
1483, gave the Bloody Tower its
name. It is thought their uncle, & Lady Jane Grey
In 1554 Lady Jane Grey was
Richard lll, was responsible. queen for nine days. Aged 16, she
was held in the gaoler’s house
$ Sir Thomas More

Chancellor Thomas More’s
on Tower Green and later exe-
cuted by order of Queen Mary l.
refusal to approve Henry VIII’s
marriage to Anne Boleyn led to
his imprisonment in the lower Bell * Catholic Martyrs
Under the reign of Elizabeth I
Tower. He was beheaded in 1535. (1558–1603), many Catholics were
executed. Most, including Jesuits,
were held in the Salt Tower.
( John Gerard
He escaped from the Cradle
Tower with a fellow prisoner in
1597, using a rope strung over the
moat by an accomplice in a boat.
Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula
% Henry Vlll’s Wives ) Rudolf Hess

The Tower’s last prisoner was
Some of the Tower’s most Hitler’s deputy. He was held in the
famous victims, such as the Queen’s House in 1941, after
beheaded wives of Henry Vlll, flying to the UK to ask for peace.
38 For more on royal London See pp54–5

Top 10 Jewels The Crown Jewels
1 Imperial State Crown The lavish, bejewelled items that make up
2 St Edward’s Crown the sovereign’s ceremonial regalia are all
3 Imperial Crown of India in the care of the Tower of London. The
London’s Top 10
4 Queen Victoria’s Crown collection dates from 1661 when a new
5 Royal Sceptre set was made to replace those destroyed
6 Jewelled State Sword by Cromwell following the execution of
7 George V’s Crown Charles I in 1649. St Edward’s Crown was
8 The Sovereign’s Ring the first subsequent crown to be made,
9 The Sovereign’s Orb of pure gold, and is the oldest of the 12
0 The Sovereign’s Sceptre crowns here. Other coronation jewels on
display include a gold, jewel-studded orb,
made in 1661, and a sceptre containing
the 530-carat Star of Africa, the biggest cut
diamond in the world. The Sovereign’s
Ring, made for William IV, is sometimes Sovereign’s
called “the wedding ring of England”. Sceptre
Imperial State Crown

Heavily encrusted with 2,868 diamonds, 17
sapphires, 11 emeralds, 5 rubies and 273
pearls, this crown was designed for the
coronation of George Vl in 1937.
Queen Elizabeth ll wearing the Imperial State Crown, coronation day, 2 June 1953
39
St Paul’s Cathedral $ Quire
The beautiful stalls
This is the great masterpiece of Sir Christopher and organ case in the
Quire are by Grinling
Wren, who rebuilt the City’s churches after the Gibbons. Handel and
Great Fire of 1666. Completed in 1708, it was Mendelssohn both
London’s Top 10
England’s first purpose-built Protestant cathedral, played the organ, which

dates from 1695.
and has many similarities with St Peter’s in Rome,
notably in its enormous ornate dome. It has the
largest swinging bell in Europe, Great Paul, which
strikes every day at 1pm. The hour bell, Great Tom,
strikes the hour and marks the death of royalty
and senior churchmen. The cathedral has a
reputation for music, and draws
its choristers from St Paul’s
Cathedral School.
Top 10 Features
1 West Front and Towers
St Paul’s semi-circular 2 Dome
South Porch 3 Whispering Gallery
Food and drink in the 4 Quire
Crypt Café. 5 OBE Chapel
6 High Altar
The most popular 7 The Light of the World
service is the choral 8 Tijou Gates
evensong (usually at 9 Mosaics
5pm daily) when you
0 Moore’s Mother and Child
can hear the choir.
Guided tours and

audio guides are
available.
• St Paul’s Cathedral,
Ludgate Hill EC4
@ Dome
One of the
• Map R2 largest domes in the
• 020 7236 4128 world (above), it is 111 m (365
• www.stpauls.co.uk ft) high and weighs 65,000
• Cathedral: Open tonnes. The Golden Gallery at
8:30am–4pm Mon–Sat; the top, and the larger Stone
Galleries: open 9:30am– Gallery, both have great views.
4pm Mon–Sat
• Admission: adults
£12.50; children 6–16 £4
(under-6s free); seniors
! West Front
and Towers
£11.50; students £9.50; The imposing West
family £29.50; group Front is dominated by
rates available, call for two huge towers. The
details • Guided tours pineapples at their
at 10:45am, 11:15am,
1:30pm, 2pm (adults:
tops are symbols of
peace and prosperity. £ Whispering Gallery
Inside the dome is the
£3; concessions £2.50; The Great West Door famous Whispering Gallery.
under 16s £1) is 9 m (29 ft) high Words whispered against
and is used only for the wall can be heard on the
ceremonial occasions. opposite side of the gallery.

6
^ High Altar
The magnificent High
4
8
Altar (below) is made
from Italian marble, and 9 5
the canopy is from a 3
sketch by Wren. The large 7
London’s Top 10
candlesticks are copies of 2
% OBE Chapel
At the eastern end
a 16th-century pair made
for Cardinal Wolsey.
of the crypt is a chapel
devoted to men and
women who received
the Order of the British
Empire, a military and
civil honour established
in 1917, and the 1
first to include Cathedral Floorplan
women.
) Moore’s
Mother and Child
The sculptor Henry Moore
is commemorated in
the crypt. This
piece (right)
is one of a
growing number
& The Light of the
World
of independent
works of art
This painting by the Pre- that have been
Raphaelite artist Holman introduced into
Hunt dates from c.1900. St Paul’s since
It shows Christ knocking the 1960s.
on a door that opens
from inside, meaning that
St Paul’s History
God can enter our lives
only if we invite Him in. The first known church
dedicated to St Paul
was built on this site
in AD 604. Made of
wood, it burned down
in 675 and a sub-
sequent church was
destroyed by Viking
invaders in 962. The
third church was built
in stone. Following
another fire in 1087, it
was rebuilt under the
Normans as a much
larger cathedral, with
stone walls and a
wooden roof. This was
* Tijou Gates
The French master ( Mosaics
Colourful mosaic
completed in 1300.
In 1666 Christopher
metal worker Jean Tijou ceilings were installed Wren’s plans to restore
designed these ornate in the Quire and Ambu- the building had just
wrought iron gates (detail latory (above) in the 19th been accepted when
above) in the North Quire century. They are made the Great Fire of
Aisle, along with the Whis- with irregular cubes of London burned the old
pering Gallery balcony and glass, set at angles so cathedral to the ground.
other cathedral metalwork. that they sparkle.
For more London places of worship See pp46–7 41

London’s Top 10
Left View up the Nave Right Lord Nelson memorial
St Paul’s Monuments
8
! Tomb of Christopher Wren

St Paul’s architect, Sir Christ-
1
7
opher Wren (1632–1723), has a 2
plain tomb in the OBE chapel.
Its inscription reads, “Lector, 3
si monumentum requiris,
5
circumspice – Reader, if you seek
a monument, look around you”. 6
@ Wellington’s Tomb
Britain’s great military leader
J M W Turner
Memorial
and prime minister, Arthur Wel- Crypt
lesly, 1st Duke of Wellington Floorplan
(1769–1852), lies in the crypt. He
also has a monument in the nave.
^ Churchill Memorial Screen
This screen commemorates
£ Nelson’s Tomb
Preserved in brandy and
Sir Winston Churchill (1874–1965)
who during the Blitz said “at all
brought home from Trafalgar, sea costs, St Paul’s must be saved”.
hero Admiral Lord Nelson (1758–
1805) is in the centre of the crypt.
& The Worshipful Company
of Masons Memorial
$ John Donne’s Memorial

The metaphysical poet John
This City guild’s plaque near
Wren’s tomb reads, “Remember
Donne (1572–1631) was made the men who made shapely the
Dean of St Paul’s in 1621. His stones of Saint Paul’s Cathedral”.
memorial is in the Dean’s Aisle.
* Turner’s Tomb
The great landscape painter
JMW Turner (1775–1851) is
buried in the OBE chapel.
( American Memorial
Behind the High Altar, the
American Memorial Chapel’s roll
of honour lists the US service-
American Memorial, detail men killed while stationed in
Britain during World War II.
% Gallipoli Memorial
One of many war memorials
) Fire-Watchers Memorial
in the cathedral, this one is In the Nave, this remembers
dedicated to those who died those who saved the church from
in the 1915 Gallipoli campaign. destruction during the 1940 Blitz.
42
Top 10 Moments in
St Paul’s History
St Paul’s Role
1 Elizabeth II’s Golden in History
Jubilee (2002). St Paul’s belongs to the nation
London’s Top 10
2 Prince Charles’ and Lady and to London. It is run by a
Diana’s wedding (1981). Dean and Chapter of five priests.
3 Winston Churchill’s Annual services for the City guilds
funeral (1965). have taken place here for a
4 Martin Luther King Jr thousand years. One of the
preaches (1964). cathedral’s main functions is as
5 Festival of Britain a place of national mourning Wedding of Prince of
launched (1951). and celebration. In the 19th Wales, 501, St Paul’s
6 Cathedral bombed (1940). century, 13,000 people filled
7 Queen Victoria’s the cathedral for the funeral of the Duke of Wellington.
Diamond Jubilee (1897). Queen Victoria’s Jubilee was a spectacular occasion
8 Duke of Wellington’s held on the steps of the cathedral. The Prince of
funeral (1852). Wales and Lady Diana Spencer chose to be married
9 Nelson’s funeral (1806). at St Paul’s rather than the royal Westminster Abbey.
0 First service (1697). The decision helped to portray the couple as the
people’s prince and princess.
Nelson’s Funeral
Such was Admiral Nelson’s
popularity that he was
afforded a full state funeral
(left). His body was carried
up the Thames from
Greenwich Hospital to
St Paul’s by barge.
Wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer, 1981
43
London’s Top 10
Execution of Charles I outside Banqueting House
Moments in London’s History

! AD 43: Roman Invasion
When the Romans arrived in
and declaring himself head of
the church in England. Today, the
Britain, they built a bridge across sovereign remains the head of
the Thames from Southwark and the Church of England.
encircled Londinium with a wall,
part of which is still visible in the
City (see pp134–9). Their forum % 1649: Charles I Executed
Charles I’s belief in the divine
was in Cornhill and their amphi- right of kings led to civil war. The
theatre lies beneath the Guildhall. royalist cause was lost and the
king was beheaded in 1649. After
11 years of Puritanism, his son
Charles II returned to the throne
to preside over the Restoration.
^ 1666: Great Fire of London

Much of the city, including
the medieval St Paul’s and 87
parish churches, were destroyed
Roman invasion of Britain in the fire, which raged for five
days. Afterwards Sir Christopher
@ 1066: Norman Conquest

The next successful invasion
Wren replanned the entire city,
including the cathedral (see p40).
of Britain came from northern
France. It was led by William the
Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, & 1863: First Underground
Originally designed to link
who was crowned King of the main London railway termini,
England in the newly completed the Metropolitan Line was the
Westminster Abbey (see pp32–3) world’s first underground railway.
on Christmas Day 1066. When it opened, the carriages
were little more than trucks.
£ 1240: First Parliament

The first parliament sat
in Westminster and became a
seat of government separate
from the mercantile City,
which continued to expand
on the former Roman site.
$ 1534: The Reformation

A quarrel between Henry
VIII and Pope Clement VII
over the king’s divorce led to
Henry breaking with Rome The Great Fire of London

Top 10 Cultural
Highlights
! Shakespeare Arrives
The first mention of
London’s Top 10
William Shakespeare (1564–
1616) as a London dramatist
was recorded in 1585.
@ Rubens Knighted
The Dutch painter Peter
Paul Rubens was knighted by
Charles I in 1629 after painting
the Banqueting House ceiling.
# Purcell’s Appointment
The greatest English com-
poser of his age, Henry Purcell
was appointed organist at
Bomb damage near St Paul’s Cathedral Westminster Abbey in 1679.
* 1875: Embankments Built

Built on either side of the
$ Handel’s Water Music
George Friedrich Handel’s
Water Music was composed
river, the Embankments were for a performance on King
among the great engineering George I’s royal barge in 1711.
works of the Victorians. They
were designed by Sir Joseph
Bazalgette to contain a vast new
% Great Exhibition
In 1851, the expanding
Empire was celebrated in an
sewage system to take waste to exhibition held in a massive
pumping stations outside London. glass structure in Hyde Park.
( 1940–41: The Blitz

Between September 1940
^ JTurner’s
M W Turner Bequest
paintings were
left to the nation on condition
and May 1941, German air raids that they be seen by the public
left 30,000 Londoners dead. The free of charge (see pp20–21).
bombers destroyed much of the
Docks, the East End and the
City. The House of Commons,
& Royal Opera Highlight
In 1892 Gustav Mahler
conducted the first British
Westminster Abbey and the performance of Wagner’s Ring
Tower of London were all hit. at the Royal Opera House.
Many Londoners sought shelter
in Underground stations at night. * First Radio Broadcast
The BBC made its first
broadcast on New Year’s Day
) 1992: Docklands
Development
1927.
Docks that were once hives of

activity began to be deserted in
( Festival of Britain
In 1951, the Festival of
the 1960s as trade moved to a Britain was held at the South
Bank to mark the centenary
modern container port at Tilbury. of the Great Exhibition.
In the 1980s, regeneration of the
area began, notably around the
West India Dock, where Canary
) Royal National Theatre
The Royal National Theatre
Wharf was built in 1992. A new company was founded in 1963
at the Old Vic under Laurence
City airport was created on the Olivier (later Lord Olivier).
site of the former Royal docks.
45
London’s Top 10
Left Carving, Westminster Abbey Centre Brompton Oratory interior Right Cherub, St Bride’s
Churches
% Temple Church
This circular church was built
in the 12th century for the Knights
Templar, a crusading order. Effigies
of the knights are embedded in
the floor. A chancel was added
later, and a reredos (screen),
St Martin-in-the-Fields designed by Christopher Wren.
The church was rebuilt in 1958.
! Westminster
See pp32–3.
Abbey d Inner Temple Lane EC4 • Map P2
• check www.templechurch.com for
opening times • Free
@ StSeePaul’s Cathedral
pp40–43.
£ StKnown
Martin-in-the-Fields
for its royal connec-
tions, St Martin’s is the only
church to have a royal box. There
has been a church on the site
since the 13th century, but the
handsome present building was
designed by James Gibbs in 1726.
Coffee shop in the crypt. d Trafalgar
Square WC2 • Map L4 • Open 8:30am– Gatehouse, St Bartholomew-the-Great
6pm Mon–Sat, services only Sun • Free
$ Southwark Cathedral ^ StA survivor

Bartholomew-the-Great
of the Great Fire,
This priory church was this is London’s only Norman
elevated to a cathedral in 1905. Church apart from St John’s
It has many connections with the chapel in the Tower of London.
area’s Elizabethan theatres, and It was founded in 1123 by a
with Shakespeare, who courtier of Henry I,
is commemorated in a and its solid pillars
memorial and a stained- and Norman choir
glass window. US have remained unal-
college founder John tered. The 14th-century
Harvard, who was Lady Chapel, restored
baptised here, is by Sir Aston Webb in
remembered in The 1890, once housed a
Harvard Chapel. printing press where
d London Bridge SE1 • Map G4 Southwark Cathedral Benjamin Franklin
• Open 8am–6pm daily • Free stained glass worked (see p138).
46
& Brompton Oratory
This very un-English,
Italianate church was established
by a Catholic convert, John Henry
Newman (1801–90). He introduced
London’s Top 10
England to the Oratory, a religious
institute of secular priests
founded in 16th-century Rome.
The building, designed by Herbert
Gribble, opened in 1884, with many
of its treasures imported from
Italy. d Brompton Road SW7 • Map C5 Italianate interior of Brompton Oratory
• Open 6:30am–8pm daily • Free
Street baker, Mr Rich, starting a
* The main Roman Catholic Westminster Cathedral trend. This is traditionally the
journalists’ church and memorial
church in England is in a fearless services are held here. d Fleet
Byzantine style, designed by John Street EC4 • Map Q2 • Open 8am–
Francis Bentley and completed in 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–6:30pm Sun
1903. It has an 83-m (273-ft) • Free
campanile, which can be climbed
for a great view of the city.
Mosaics and over 100 varieties ) All Souls
This distinctive building, with
of marble decorate the interior. a semi-circular portico and stiletto
d Victoria St SW1 • Map E5 • Open spire, was designed by John
8am–7pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7pm Sat & Nash, creator of Regent
Sun • Free Street. After the BBC
built their headquarters
( StThereBride’s
has been a church
next door, it became
the home of reli-
on this site since Roman gious broadcasts.
times. Sir Christopher Wren’s d Langham Place W1 •
fine church has a wonderful Map J1 • Open 9:30am–
tiered spire that was copied Memorial tablet 5:30pm Mon–Fri,
for a wedding cake by a Fleet at All Souls services only Sun • Free
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47
London’s Top 10
Left V&A Museum of Childhood Right London Transport Museum
Museums
with 145 astonishingly eclectic
galleries. Highlights include
the Medieval and Renaissance
Galleries with their remarkable
collection of treasures. The
museum also has displays of
jewellery, textiles, metalwork,
glass, paintings, prints and
sculpture, and boasts rooms
full of Indian and Far Eastern
treasures (see p119).
% Museum of London
This comprehensive museum
provides a detailed account of
Victoria and Albert Museum London life from prehistoric
times to the present day. It is
! British Museum
The oldest museum in the
particularly strong on Roman
Londinium, but also has a model
world, and one of London’s most recreating the Great Fire of
fascinating, contains treasures 1666 and a reconstruction of a
and artifacts from all over the Victorian street including several
world (see pp8–11). original shopfronts (see p136).
@ Natural History Museum

Life on Earth and the Earth ^ National
Museum
Maritime
itself are vividly explained here The world’s largest maritime

using hundreds of traditional and museum, part of the Maritime
interactive exhibits (see pp22–3). Greenwich World Heritage Site,
has much to offer. Detailing in-
£ Science Museum
This exciting museum traces
spirational stories from Britain’s
seafaring past, it tells of the con-
centuries of scientific and tinuing effects the oceans still
technological develop- have on the world today.
ment, with impressive Admiral Nelson’s fatally
and educational displays pierced naval coat is
(see pp24–5). on display, the tragic
polar expeditions of
$ Victoria and
Albert Museum
explorers are recalled
and a state-of-the-art
This museum of simulator gives an idea of
decorative arts is one of Smiling Nun, what it is like to steer a
London’s great pleasures, Museum of London ship into port (see p147).

& Imperial War Museum
In this museum, which is
housed in part of the former
Bethlehem (“Bedlam”) Hospital
for the Insane, a clock in the
London’s Top 10
basement moves remorselessly
on, recording the world’s war
dead – a figure that has now
reached 100 million. Six million
of them are commemorated in Imperial War Museum
the Holocaust Exhibition. Other
displays include evocative re-
creations of World War I trench ( London
Museum
Transport
warfare and the life of Londoners In this former flower-market

during the World War II Blitz. building, the history of London’s
Now it is “total war” that we transport system is illustrated
have to contemplate, and this, with posters, photographs and
too, is explored (see p83). examples of early buses, tubes
and horse-drawn vehicles. There
* Design Museum
Based in a clean white 1930s
are also interactive “KidZones”
for children (see p100).
building beside Tower Bridge, this
museum is the only one in Britain
devoted to 20th- and 21st-century ) V&A Museum
of Childhood
design. Regularly changing exhi- The V&A Museum in Bethnal
bitions feature the very best of Green has the largest collection
modern design, including of childhood-related objects in
both product and graphic the UK. The museum’s
design, fashion, furniture, array of toys, games,
architecture and engi- lavish dolls’ houses,
neering. d Butler’s model trains, furniture
Wharf SE1 • Map H4 and children’s clothing
• Open 10am–5:45pm daily dates from the 1600s
• Admission charge Austin Taxi, London to the present day
• www.designmuseum.org Transport Museum (see p154).
+$0
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For children’s museums See pp68–9 49

London’s Top 10
Left The National Gallery Right Satan Smiting Job with Sore Boils by William Blake, Tate Britain
Art Galleries
! The National Gallery and
National Portrait Gallery $ Courtauld Gallery
From Fra Angelico to Van
Located adjacent to each other Gogh, this is a complete art
at the top of Trafalgar Square, course in one manageable gallery.
these comprehensive galleries The core of the collection is the
make up the core of Britain’s country’s finest Impressionist
art collection (see pp12–15). and Post-Impressionist works,
amassed by a textile magnate,
Samuel Courtauld (1876–1947).
Many of them are instantly
recognisable: Manet’s Bar at the
Folies- Bergère, Van Gogh’s Self
Portrait With Bandaged Ear,
Gauguin’s Te Rerioa and Manet’s
Déjeuner sur L’Herbe. Visit the
Courtauld café or Somerset
House’s fountain courtyard and
riverside terrace café for a drink
afterwards (see p99).
% Wallace Collection
This wonderful Victorian
mansion belonged to Sir Richard
Wallace (1818–90). In 1897, his
widow bequeathed the house
and their amazing art collection
to the nation. Covering two
Renoir’s At The Theatre, National Gallery floors, the 25 public rooms are
beautifully furnished with one
@ Tate Modern
Housed in a huge converted
of the best collections of French
18th-century pictures, porcelain
power station on the south and furniture in the
bank of the Thames, this world. The paintings are
exciting gallery covers rich and voluptuous –
modern art from 1900 to the notable works include
present day (see pp18–19). Nicolas Poussin’s A
Dance to the Music
£ Tate Britain
The other Tate gallery in
of Time and Frans
Hals’ The Laughing
London, focusing on work from Cavalier. There are
1500 to the present, has the English portraits by
best collection of British art The Laughing Cavalier by Gainsborough and
in the world (see pp20–21). Frans Hals, Wallace Collection Reynolds (see p129).
50
the crowds, and it is often
necessary to reserve a ticket in
advance. The traditional Summer
Exhibition, which anyone can
apply to enter, is also extremely
London’s Top 10
popular (see p113).
( Queen’s Gallery,
Buckingham Palace
Established in 1962 to display
works from the Royal Collection,
this fascinating gallery shows
paintings and other pieces from
the royal collection (see p26).
Vermeer’s The Guitar Player, Kenwood House ) Kenwood House

This majestic mansion with
interiors designed by Robert
^ If you have time, this

Dulwich Picture Gallery Adam has a small but important
collection comprising 17th-
suburban gallery is well worth a century Dutch and Flemish
short train journey. Britain’s oldest works, 18th-century English
public art gallery, it was opened portraits, and a small French
in 1817. The important collection Rococo section. There are
includes Murillo’s Flower Girl, statues by Henry Moore and
Poussin’s Triumph of David and Barbara Hepworth in the
Rembrandt’s Girl at the Window extensive grounds (see p142).
(see p148).

$'

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51
London’s Top 10
Left Dickens’ house Right Carlyle’s House interior
Famous Residents
! Sherlock Holmes
The famous but fictitious
detective created by Sir Arthur
Conan Doyle first appeared in
1891. He still gets regular fan
mail sent to 221b Baker Street,
which houses the Sherlock
Holmes Museum (see p130).
@ Charles Dickens
The great Victorian novelist
and social campaigner (1812–70)
lived in Doughty Street for two Sherlock Holmes, London’s famous detective
years from 1837. The house is his
only surviving London home, and
he thought it “a frightfully first- $ John Keats
The London-born Romantic
class family mansion, involving poet (1795–1821) lived in Hamp-
awful responsibilities” (see p108). stead from 1818 to 1820 before
leaving for Italy to try to cure his
£ Dr“When
Johnson
a man is tired of
fatal tuberculosis. After falling
in love with his neighbour’s
London, he is tired of life,” said daughter, Fanny Brawne, he
Dr Samuel Johnson (1709–84). He wrote his famous and beautiful
lived in this house from around Ode to a Nightingale in the
1748 to 1759 and much of his garden (see p141).
famous dictionary was compiled
here, with six copyists working
in the garrett. His companion % Sigmund Freud
The Viennese founder of
James Boswell reported on the psychoanalysis (1856–1939)
social comings and goings in the spent the last year of his life
house. d Dr Johnson’s House, 17 in a north London house. A
Gough Square EC4 • Map P2 • Open Jew, he had fled the Nazis,
11am–5pm Mon–Sat • Admission charge bringing his celebrated couch
with him (see p141).
^ Lord Leighton
Yorkshire-born Frederic
Leighton (1830–96) was the
most successful painter in
Victorian London and president
of the Royal Academy. He had
this exotic house built for him
Freud’s famous couch in 1866 (see p121).

& Thomas Carlyle
The Scottish historian and
Top 10 Blue Plaques
Circular blue plaques on the
essayist Thomas Carlyle, famous walls of some London build-
for his history of the French ings recall famous residents.
Revolution, lived in London from
London’s Top 10
1834. d Carlyle’s House, 24 Cheyne ! Wolfgang A Mozart
The German composer
Row SW3 • Map C6 • Open Apr–Oct: (1756–91) wrote his first
2pm–5pm Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, Sun symphony, aged eight, while
& public hols • Admission charge at No. 180 Ebury Street.
* The Duke of Wellington @ Benjamin Franklin

The US statesman and
Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke scientist (1706–90) lived for a
of Wellington (1769–1852), lived time at No. 38 Craven Street.
at Apsley House, which has the
unique address of No. 1 London, £ Charlie Chaplin
The much-loved movie
following his victories in the actor (1889–1977) was born
Napoleonic Wars (see p114). at No. 287 Kennington Road.
( Georg Friedrich Handel

The great German-born
$ Charles de Gaulle
The exiled general (1890–
1970) organized the Free French
composer first visited London Forces from No. 6 Carlton
in 1710 and settled here Terrace during World War II.
permanently in 1712. d Handel
House Museum, 25 Brook Street W1
• Map D3 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat
% Dwight Eisenhower
During World War II the
Allied Commander (1880–
(10am–8pm Thu), noon–6pm Sun 1969) lived at No. 20 Grosvenor
• Admission charge Square, near the US embassy.
) William Hogarth
The great painter of London
^ Mark Twain
The American humorist
(1835–1910) lived for a year
life (1697–1764, see pp20–21) was at No. 23 Tedworth Square.
used to the gritty life of the city
and called his house near Chiswick
“a little country box by the
& Mahatma Gandhi
The “father” of India’s
Thames”. d Hogarth’s House, Hogarth independence movement
(1869–1948) studied law in
Lane W4 • Check www.hounslow.info for the Inner Temple in 1889.
opening times • Closed Jan • Free
* Jimi Hendrix
The American guitarist
(1942–1970) stayed in central
London at No. 23 Brook Street.
( Henry James
The American writer
(1843–1916) lived in Bolton
Street, de Vere Gardens, and in
Cheyne Walk, where he died.
) Giuseppe Mazzini
From 1837 to 1849 the
Italian revolutionary and
patriot (1805–72) lived at
No. 183 Gower Street.
Richly decorated interior of Leighton House
53
London’s Top 10
Left Buckingham Palace Right Kensington Palace
Royal London
! Buckingham
See pp26–7
Palace
@ Hampton Court
The finest piece of Tudor
architecture in Britain, Hampton
Court was begun by Henry VIII’s
ally Cardinal Wolsey in 1514 and
later given to the king. It was en-
larged first by Henry and then by
William and Mary, who employed
Christopher Wren as architect.
Its many rooms include a huge Tudor gatehouse, St James’s Palace
kitchen, a Renaissance Picture
Gallery, the Chapel Royal and fine royal residence. Prince Charles
royal apartments. Set in 60 acres, has offices here (see p113).
the gardens, with their famous
maze, are as much an attraction
as the palace (see p147). % Kew Palace and Queen
Charlotte’s Cottage
The smallest royal palace, Kew
£ Kensington Palace
An intimate royal palace in
was built in 1631 and used as a
residence by George III and
Kensington Gardens, famous as Queen Charlotte. Nearby Queen
the home of Princess Diana, the Charlotte’s Cottage was used for
first sovereign residents here picnics and housing royal pets.
were William and Mary in 1689 The palace is set in Kew Gardens
and Queen Victoria was born (see p147). d Kew, Surrey • Palace:
here in 1837. Until mid-2012 the open Apr–Oct, call 0844 482 7799 for
State Apartments are the setting times; Cottage: open during the summer
for an enchanting, multi-sensory • www.hrp.org.uk
exhibition that reveals intriguing
tales of past residents. The
Orangery is delightful ^ Banqueting House
Built by Inigo Jones,
for coffee (see p119). this magnificent building
is particularly noted for
$ St James’s Palace
Although not open
its Rubens ceiling. It
was commissioned by
to the public, St James’s Charles I, who stepped
has a key role in royal from this room on to the
London. Its classic Tudor scaffold for his execution
style sets it in the reign in 1649. d Whitehall SW1
of Henry VIII, although it Ceiling detail, • Map L4 • Open 10am–5pm
served only briefly as a Banqueting House Mon–Sat • Admission charge
54
& Queen’s House
This delightful home in the
Top 10 Royals in
Everyday London Life
midst of Greenwich Park was the
first Palladian building by Inigo
Jones, and home to the wife of ! King Charles Spaniel
These were the favourite
London’s Top 10
Charles I. Beautifully restored to dogs of King Charles II. Today,
its 17th-century glory, it houses the Queen prefers corgis.
the National Maritime Museum’s
art collection. d Romney Road SE10 @ Queen Anne’s Gate
A delightful small West-
• Train to Greenwich; DLR Cutty Sark, minster street with a statue
Greenwich • Open 10am–5pm daily of the queen who gave her
name to a style of furniture.
* Royal Mews
See pp26–7. £ Regent’s Park
The Prince Regent, later
George IV, used John Nash
( Queen’s Chapel
This exquisite royal chapel is
for this ambitious urban plan.
open only to its congregation

(visitors welcome as worship-
$ Duke of York Steps
A statue of the “Grand
Old Duke of York”, subject of
pers). Built by Inigo Jones in 1627, the nursery rhyme, is elevated
its furnishings remain virtually above these steps off Pall Mall.
intact, including a beautiful
altarpiece by Annibale Carracci.
d Marlborough Road SW1 • Map K5
% Victoria Station
All the main London
railway termini were built in
Victoria’s reign. This one
) Clarence House
Designed by John Nash and
serves southern England.
finished in 1827 for William, Duke

of Clarence who lived here after he
^ Albert Memorial
Prince Albert, beloved
consort of Queen Victoria, has
became king in 1830. Situated a splendid memorial in Kens-
beside The Mall, it was the Queen ington Gardens (see p119).
Mother’s home until her death in
2002. d Stable Yard SW1 • Map K5
• Open Aug, call 020 7766 7303 for times
& George Cross
Instituted in 1940 under
George VI, this medal is
awarded for acts of heroism
by civilians.
* Princess of Wales Pubs

Several pubs have
changed their name to remem-
ber Diana, Princess of Wales,
“the people’s princess”.
( Windsor Knot
The stylish Duke of
Windsor, who abdicated the
throne in 1938, gave the
world a wide tie knot.
) King Edward Potato

This variety of English
potato was named after King
Edward VII, who visited Ireland
after the 1903 potato famine.
Queen’s House, Greenwich
For royal parks and gardens See pp28–9 55

London’s Top 10
Left Colonnade at the ICA Centre Royal Court Theatre façade Right Performers at Sadler’s Wells
Performing Arts Venues

! Royal Opera House
One of the greatest opera
houses in the world, this theatre
is home to the Royal Ballet
Company, and hosts international
opera productions. Apart from
the sumptuous main auditorium,
there are the smaller Linbury and
Clore theatres which have music
and dance. There are regular
backstage tours and occasional
big-screen live simulcasts of
opera in the Piazza (see p99).
@ The National Theatre

Seeing a play at the National
The Nutcracker, Royal Opera House
Theatre takes you to the heart of and bars. The centre also
London’s cultural life. Within the contains a library and convention
grey blocks of this innovative hall. The Guildhall School of Music
building, designed by Denys and Drama is nearby (see p135).
Lasdun in 1976, you can see
a musical, a classic or a new
play in one of its three theatres: $ London Coliseum
London’s other principal opera
the Olivier, the Lyttelton or the house presents excellent produc-
Cottesloe. Check for free shows tions sung in English by the
and exhibitions in the English National Opera.
foyer. Reduced price The theatre re-opened in
tickets are sold from 2004 following extensive
10am on the day of the restoration work. d St
performance. d South Bank Martin’s Lane WC2 • Map L3
SE1 • Map N4 • 020 7452 3000 • 0871 911 0200 • www.eno.org
£ Barbican Centre
Home of one of the % Queen
Elizabeth Hall
best music companies Part of the Southbank
in the world – the London Centre, Queen Elizabeth
Symphony Orchestra – Golden globe atop the Hall, along with the
the Barbican is the London Coliseum Purcell Room, Royal
City’s most important Festival Hall and the Hay-
arts complex. Theatre, cinema, ward Gallery, has a programme of
concerts, dance and exhibitions musical, arts and literary activities.
can all be seen here, and there d South Bank SE1 • Map N4 • 0871 663
are plenty of restaurants, cafés 25 01• www.southbankcentre.co.uk

^ Sadler’s Wells
After winning a reputation as
theatre, comedy, dance, music
and the visual arts. Works of such
the best dance theatre in London innovators as Samuel Beckett and
in the 1950s, Sadler’s Wells now Peter Brook have premiered here.
also hosts music and opera. The Once BBC studios, the venue is
London’s Top 10
stunning new building prides still used to make TV shows. The
itself on its community events café, bar and river terrace are a
as well as its international draw in themselves. d Crisp Road
dance shows (see p144). W6 • Tube Hammersmith • 020 8237 1111
& Royal Albert Hall

This distinctive, circular ) ICA
A stately, colonnaded terrace
building was designed to resemble by Nash houses London’s hippest
a Roman amphitheatre, and has gallery, the Institute of Contem-
a delicate Classical frieze around porary Arts. The ICA’s cutting edge
the exterior. The excellent acoustic policy on the visual arts includes
inside makes this a premier venue developing new and challenging
for every kind of concert, including digitally-produced works, and
the “Proms” (see p120). Becks Futures, the UK’s largest
arts prize for students. d The Mall
* Royal Court Theatre

The cream of new drama can
SW1 • Map K5 • 020 7930 3647
be seen at this charming small

theatre. Both the main, and tiny
upstairs theatre, are important
London venues. Play “actor
spotting” in the restaurant and
bar. d Sloane Square SW1 • Map C5
• 020 7565 5000
( Riverside Studios
With a glorious location by
the Thames at Hammersmith
Bridge, this is a fascinating arts
and media centre. An eclectic
programme includes cinema, Performance, Royal Albert Hall
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For more theatres See pp60–61 57

London’s Top 10
Left Camden’s Jazz Café Right The O2 arena
Live Music Venues

! Ronnie Scott’s
This legendary London jazz
club was opened by saxophonist
Ronnie Scott (1929–96) in 1959.
Intimate lamplit tables surround
a tiny stage that has hosted such
stars as Ella Fitzgerald and Dizzy
Gillespie, and continues to attract
top names (see p93).
@ 100 Club
Atmospheric jazz and blues Ronnie Scott’s jazz club
dive that stays open up to 2am.
This club’s heritage is legendary number of big name acts. d 9–17
– the Rolling Stones played here, Highgate Road NW5 • 020 7485 4080
as did the Sex Pistols and other • Tube Kentish Town
punk bands of the 1970s. Today it
also hosts Indie groups. Member-
ship is not required. d 100 Oxford % Brixton Academy
This is a great place to see
Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7636 0933 big names from across the music
spectrum. Although it holds 4,000,
£ Jazz Café
Top jazz and soul performers,
the hall retains an intimate, clubby
atmosphere with good views of
as well as great food make this a the performers from across the
popular venue. Best views are to auditorium. d 211 Stockwell Road
be had from the balcony tables. d 5 SW9 • 0844 477 2000 • Tube Brixton
Parkway NW1 • Map D1 • 020 7688 8899
$ HMV Forum ^ Koko

Hosting mainly indie gigs as
A 2,300-capacity music well as big names such as Prince
venue in the heart of Kentish and Madonna, Koko is also home
Town that plays host to a to well known club nights such
as the famous “pop”
fest, Guilty Pleasures.
d 1a Camden High Street NW1
• Map D1 • 0870 432 5527
& PizzaExpress
Jazz Club
Downstairs from the Pizza
Express restaurant is one of
London’s best jazz venues,
Koko, Camden where anything from swing,
58
blues and gospel classics to mod- Top 10 Nightclubs
ern fusion jazz can be heard. d 10
Dean Street W1 • Map 2K • 0845 602 7017 ! Fabric
The best dance venue in
town, arranged in three rooms
* Borderline filled with sound: 24-hour music
London’s Top 10
One of London’s best small licence. d 77a Charterhouse
clubs, Borderline has hosted Street EC1 • Map Q1
many international bands in its
basement. There’s at least one
different band every weekday
@ 333
This three-storey club
heaves to drum ‘n’ bass, hip
evening, playing a wide range of hop and funky soul. d 333 Old
music, from country to metal. Street, Hoxton EC1 • Map H2
d Orange Yard, off Manette Street W1
• Map L2 • 0844 847 2465
£ Volupté
Expect top cabaret at this
burlesque club. d 9 Norwich
( O2 arena & indigO2
The ill-fated Millennium Street EC4 • Tube Chancery Lane
Dome has been transformed into
the huge O2 arena, hosting the $ Madame Jo-Jo’s
Some of the best drag
biggest names around including acts in town. d 8–10 Brewer
the Rolling Stones and Justin Street W1 • Map K3
Timberlake. The indigO2 offers a
more intimate setting, with a % Cargo
One of the best places for
capacity of 2,350. Taking the cutting-edge music. d 83
Thames Clipper along the river is Rivington Street EC2 • Map H2
all part of the fun. d Millennium
Way, North Greenwich SE10 • Tube North ^ Plastic People
Small but perfectly formed
Greenwich • 0844 856 0202
basement club with a top
sound system. d 147–149
Curtain Road EC2 • Map H2
& Brixton Jamm

The South London venue
for indie rock, plus electronic,
trance and beats. d 261
Brixton Road SW9 • Tube Brixton
* Café de Paris
Popular disco with a mix
of DJs and a restaurant. d 3
Coventry Street W1 • Map K3
Live music at the Troubadour
( Heaven
London’s best-known gay
) Troubadour Coffee House

An atmospheric and laid-
venue has several bars and
dance floors beneath Charing
back coffee house club devoted Cross station. d Villiers Street
to live music. All the great folk WC2 • Map M4
singers of the 1960s played here,
and today there is a relaxed feel ) Storm Nightclub
Nightclub playing R ‘n’ B
to the evenings when singers, and hip hop, and a comedy
poets and comedians perform. venue with TV acts. d 28A
d 263–7 Old Brompton Road SW5 • Map Leicester Square WC2 • Map L3
A6 • 020 7370 1434
For more late-night venues See p93 59

London’s Top 10
Left Blood Brothers Right Priscilla Queen of the Desert
West End Shows

! Les Misérables
Victor Hugo’s 1862 French £ Chicago
The longest-running Broad-
classic novel was adapted for the way musical to play the West
stage by Trevor Nunn for the Royal End is this high-kicking tribute to
Shakespeare Company in 1985. Bob Fosse’s 1975 version.
With music by Alain Boublil and d Cambridge Theatre, Earlham Street
Claude-Michel Schönberg, “Les WC2 • Map L2 • 020 7834 6318
Mis” tells the tale of downtrodden
poor and the social and political
struggles in revolutionary France. $ Phantom of the Opera
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s
Originally at the Palace Theatre 1986 hit musical, The Phantom
on Cambridge Circus, it is now of the Opera is based on Gaston
at the Queens Theatre. d Queens Leroux’s novel of the same name
Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue W1 • Map and is set in the Paris Opera
K3 • 08444 825 160 House. Perhaps it is Lloyd
Webber’s most famous production.
d Her Majesty’s Theatre, Haymarket SW1
• Map L4 • 0844 412 2707
% The Lion King

Based on the 1994 animated
film of the same name, this story
is magically conjured up on stage.
The animal costumes and special
effects wow children and adults
alike. d Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington
The Lion King, Lyceum Theatre Street WC2 • Map N3 • 0844 844 005
@ The Mousetrap
Agatha Christie’s murder
mystery, The Mousetrap, has
been playing in London since
1952, and has been seen by
100 million people. A few bits
of the original set remain. Chris-
tie herself predicted a run of
only six months, and in 1955,
after the 1,000th performance,
a critic wrote: “The biggest
mystery of the evening is
why this play has run so long.”
d St Martin’s Theatre, West Street WC2
• Map L3 • 08444 991 515 Cast of Phantom of the Opera

* Dirty Dancing
As Baby turns into a woman
with the help of a hip-swivelling
dance instructor, expect plenty
of rock and roll and some sexy
London’s Top 10
moves in this raunchy version of
an old favourite. Great fun.
d Aldwych Theatre WC2 • Map L4
• 0844 847 2330
( Priscilla
the Desert
Queen of
Based on the Oscar®-winning

Dirty Dancing at the Aldwych Theatre movie The Adventures of Priscilla,
Queen of the Desert (1994), it
^ The Woman in Black

This production, staged in
tells a hilarious yet heart-warming
tale of three drag queens journey-
one of London’s smallest venues ing across the Australian outback
since 1989, has plenty of atmos- in search of love. Outrageously
phere and tells a classic ghost glamorous. d Palace Theatre W1
story. This is a story that will • Map L2 • 0844 755 0016
keep you on the edge of your
seat. d Fortune Theatre, Russell Street
WC2 • Map M2 • 0844 871 7626 ) Blood Brothers
The story revolves around
twins separated at birth because
& Based on the novel by

Wicked their mother cannot afford to
keep them both. One grows up
Gregory Maguire and touted as with his poor, natural, mother,
“the untold story of the witches the other lives with her wealthy
of Oz”, this musical offers a employer. The consequences
prequel to the story told in The when they eventually meet are
Wizard of Oz, leading up to the a successful blend of comedy
moment when Dorothy’s house and tragedy. d Phoenix Theatre,
falls on the Green Witch’s sister. Charing Cross Road WC2 • Map L2
d Apollo Victoria, Wilton Road SW1 • 0870 060 6629
• Map D5 • 0844 826 8000
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For more entertainment venues See pp56–7 61

London’s Top 10
Left Sign, George Inn Right Outside the George Inn
Pubs
! The Lamb and Flag
This old-world establishment
tucked up an alley looks much as
it did in Charles Dickens’ day. In
the heart of Covent Garden, it can
get crowded – during the summer
drinkers spill outside into the
quiet alley. The 17th-century poet
John Dryden was severely Dog and Duck, Soho
beaten up outside the pub which
was known as The Bucket of
Blood because of the bareknuckle £ YeIn anOldealleyCheshire Cheese
off Fleet Street,
fights held here (see p104). this warren of rooms still seems
as if it should have sawdust on
@ Dog and Duck

This small, tiled Victorian pub
the floors. Rebuilt in 1667, after
the Great Fire of London, it was
is like a cosy front room in the a favourite of Dr Johnson (see
heart of Soho. The Dog and Duck p52) and other writers. Never too
has a tiny bar, where you might crowded, its intimate corners
bump into art students and make a good meeting place,
designers, and a blackboard with made cozier with fires in winter.
the latest selection of beers from d Wine Office Court EC4 • Map Q2
all corners of England (see p94).
$ George Inn
Built in 1676, this is the only
galleried coaching inn left in
London, and was taken over by
the National Trust in 1937. You
can enjoy excellent beers in its
myriad old rooms, with lattice
windows and wooden beams, or
in the large courtyard (see p86).
% Jerusalem Tavern
A delightful little pub with
cubicles, a small bar and little
more than the 18th-century
coffee shop it once was. People
come here to try out the full range
of a rare but popular brewery, St
Peter’s in Suffolk. Light meals
are served at lunchtime. d 55
Lamb and Flag, Covent Garden Britton Street EC1 • Map G2
62 Note: Smoking is banned in all pubs, clubs and restaurants

^ Spaniards Inn
This lovely 16th-century pub ( The Eagle
This large Victorian pub is
north of Hampstead Heath, with popular, crowded and lively, with
a large, attractive beer garden, is many coming here to eat the
steeped in history and romance: excellent, mainly Mediterranean,
London’s Top 10
the 18th-century highwayman food. Portions are large and
Dick Turpin drank here, along inexpensive, and can be washed
with literary luminaries Keats, down with a good selection of
Shelley and Byron (see p145). beer and wine (see p76). d 159
Farringdon Road EC1 • Tube Farringdon
& The Princess Louise is a

Princess Louise • No bookings
beautiful 19th-century pub with

stained-glass windows, nooks ) French House
This was once a meeting
and alcoves. An unexpected place for the French Resistance
bonus is the beer for under £2 a during World War II, when it was
pint, as well as hearty and given its name. Gaining a
delicious pies and puddings. reputation as a bohemian
d 208–209 High Holborn WC1 bolthole, it was also frequented
• Map M1 by artists and poets such as
Francis Bacon, Brendan Behan
* The Grapes
Built in the 1720s, with
and Dylan Thomas. It is now well
known for its refreshing Breton
wooden floors and panelling, cider and fine wines. d 49 Dean
The Grapes has survived the Street W1 • Map L3
modern development of Dock-
lands, retaining its traditional
charm and informal atmosphere.
The back bar has an open fire
for the winter months and a
terrace by the Thames for the
summer. The excellent upstairs
restaurant is renowned for its
fish dishes. d 76 Narrow Street E14
• DLR Westferry Jerusalem Tavern, City
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For places to eat See pp76–7 63

London’s Top 10
Left Hamleys Right Harrods by night
Shops and Markets

£ Harrods
London’s most famous and
exclusive department store is
more of an event than a shop.
Covering seven floors, it is full of
extraordinary things to buy – from
pianos to children’s racing cars –
all with equally extraordinary
prices. The children’s toy depart-
ment is excellent, and the store’s
food hall is rightly famous, with
bars selling upmarket ice-cream,
Liberty’s mock-Tudor façade pizzas and countless other treats
(see p123).
! Liberty
This handsome, half-timbered
$ Harvey Nichols
building dates from 1925 and its Almost a parody of itself,
fine wood-floored and panelled “Harvey Nicks” is where the
interior is part of the shopping glamorous shop. There’s wall-
experience there. Long associated to-wall designer labels, an
with the Arts and Crafts move- extravagant perfume and beauty
ment, it employed artists such department and stylish home-
as William Morris to design its ware. The fifth floor is for
fabrics. Great for its own Liberty consuming, with a food hall,
floral fabrics, home furnishings, sushi bar and the to-be-seen-in
men’s and women’s fashions and Fifth Floor restaurant (see p123).
lovely gifts (see p110).
@ Fortnum and Mason % Hamleys

The five storeys of London’s
London’s most elegant largest toyshop contain just about
store has hardly noticed anything a child might want,
the arrival of the 21st from traditional puppets and
century. The ground-floor games to giant
food hall is famous for stuffed toys,
its traditional English models, arts and
produce, and lavish crafts supplies and
picnic hampers can be the latest electron-
found, along with wines, ic gadgets. There
in the basement. The are also many
upper floors are good delights here for
for designer men’s and adults who haven’t
women’s fashion and Playing with giant let go of their child-
stylish gifts (see p116). teddies, Hamleys hood (see p110).

^ Portobello Road
West London’s liveliest street
sells a mixture of antiques and bric-
à-brac. As it heads north, there are
food stalls, crafts, clothes and
London’s Top 10
music. The market is every Friday,
which is quieter and has fewer
stalls, and Saturday (see p120).
& Camden Market

A great place to spend a
Saturday, this rambling market
around Camden Lock takes in
several streets and buildings.
Street fashion, world crafts… it’s
as if the 1960s never ended. Antique shop, Portobello Road
Sundays are a crush (see p141).
* The largest bookshop inWaterstone’s Piccadilly ( John Lewis

This store has a large and
loyal clientele, with departments
Europe, Waterstone’s stocks a ranging from kitchenware and
quarter of a million titles. There’s a haberdashery through furniture,
restaurant, cafés and a champagne fashion and fabrics to electrical
bar on the fifth floor (see p116). goods. Staff are informed, prices
are excellent and the quality is
guaranteed (see p132).
) Westfield
Europe’s largest inner city
shopping centre mixes high
fashion with overseas brands and
luxury labels (housed in the
boutique-style setting, The
Village). Also has a 14-screen
Camden’s indoor market cinema. d Ariel Way W12
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London’s Top 10
Left RHS Chelsea Flower Show Right Lord Mayor’s Show
Festivals and Events

! Notting Hill Carnival
This three-day Caribbean
festival is Europe’s largest
carnival, with steel bands and
DJ’s playing all imaginable kinds
of music, street food, brilliant
costumes and lively dancers.
Children’s parades on Sunday,
grown-ups’ on Monday. d Notting
Hill W11 • Map A3 • Last Sat–Mon in Aug
@ RHS Chelsea Flower Show

As much a society outing as Extravagant costume, Notting Hill Carnival
a horticultural event, this is the
Royal Horticultural Society’s pres-
tigious annual show. Beautiful $ BBC Promenade Concerts
The most extensive concert
and imaginative gardens are series in the world. The famous
created especially for the event. last concert is relayed live to
d Chelsea Royal Hospital SW1 • Map C6 adjacent Hyde Park, when Land
• Mid-May • Admission charge of Hope and Glory rocks the
Royal Albert Hall (see p120) to its
foundations. d Royal Albert Hall SW1
• Map B5 • Mid-Jul–mid-Sep
% Royal Academy Summer

Exhibition
Around 1,000 works are selected
from the public and academicians
for the art world’s most eclectic
summer show. Works sell for as
Trooping the Colour, Horse Guards Parade little as £100. d Piccadilly W1 • Map
J4 • Jun–Aug • Admission charge
£ Trooping the Colour

The Queen celebrates her
^ Lord Mayor’s Show
official birthday on Horse Guards Every year, the City of
Parade where troops of the London elects a Lord Mayor who
Household Division, in their processes through the Square
famous red tunics and bearskin Mile in a gilded coach. Military
hats, put on an immaculate display bands, floats and city guildsmen
of marching and drilling before in traditional costume go from
escorting her to Buckingham Guildhall to the Law Courts.
Palace. d Horse Guards Parade SW1 Evening fireworks. d City of London
• Map L5 • Sat closest to 10 Jun • Map R2 (Guildhall) • 2nd Sat in Nov

& Guy Fawkes Night
Effigies of Guy Fawkes, who
Top 10 Sports Events
attempted to blow up Parliament
in 1605, are burned on bonfires ! Wimbledon Lawn
Tennis Championship
across the country, with The world’s top grass-court
London’s Top 10
accompanying firework extrava- championships. d All England
Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club,
ganzas. Children make dummy
Wimbledon • Jun/Jul
Guys and ask for pennies to pay
for their little arsenals. d 5 Nov
@ London Marathon
26.2-mile (42-km) road
race from Greenwich Park to
* Chinese New Year
Chinatown (see p89) is taken The Mall. d Apr
over by dancing dragons breathing
fire during this vibrant, colourful # Friends
Trophy
Provident
festival. Food and craft stalls are The climax of the cricket
season. d Lord’s NW8 • Jun
authentically oriental. d Soho W1
• Map L3 • Late Jan–early Feb
$ Oxford and
Cambridge Boat Race
( BFI London Film Festival
Scores of international films
The two universities’ annual
rowing race covers some 6.5
km (4 miles) on the Thames.
are shown in this two-week
d Putney to Mortlake • Mar
festival when cinemas, including
the National Film Theatre, reduce
prices. A booth is set up in % The London Inter-
national Horse Show
Leicester Square to take bookings Family fun at this Christmas
show. d Olympia W8 • Dec
and distribute programmes.
d West End • Nov
^ Varsity Match
The Oxford-Cambridge
rugby union duel. dTwicken-
) Great British Beer Festival
Organized by the Campaign ham Rugby Ground • Dec
for Real Ale (CAMRA), this annual
festival in a major London & Head of the River Race
A day-long event in which
exhibition hall is a chance to some 400 rowing boats
sample the best beers and ciders struggle for supremacy.
produced in Britain. d Earls Court d Mortlake to Putney • Mar
SW5 • Aug • Admission charge
* Six Nations Rugby
Annual rugby union contest
with England, France, Ireland,
Italy, Scotland and Wales.
d Twickenham Rugby Ground
• Feb/Mar/Apr
( Royal Ascot
All London Society goes
to the races in top hats and
other glamorous creations.
d Ascot, Berkshire • Jun
) Doggett’s Coat
and Badge Wager
Guildsmen from the Company
of Watermen compete in a
single sculls race. d London
Bridge to Chelsea Bridge • Jul
Lord Mayor’s Show fireworks
67
London’s Top 10
Left London Zoo Right London Dungeon
Children’s London
! Science Museum
See pp24–5. $ London Zoo
There’s a full day out to be
had in this 36-acre zoo. Home of
@ Natural History Museum

See pp22–3.
the Zoological Society of London,
the zoo emphasizes its
important international
£ Madame Tussaud’s
One of London’s
role in conservation and
research work. Its
most popular attrac- enclosures have won
tions, this is where you awards, such as the
can see everyone from aviary designed by Lord
Arnold Schwarzenegger Snowdon. The Meet the
to the Queen. A Spirit Monkeys enclosure
of London ride takes provides a rainforest
you on a whistle-stop habitat for free-roaming
tour of the city’s monkeys and other
history. The famous wildlife (see p129).
Chamber of Horrors Waxwork Royalty,
puts you face-to-face
with London’s most
Madame Tussaud’s
% Sea Life London
Aquarium
infamous criminals and has the Located on London’s South Bank,
very guillotine that beheaded the aquarium is home to thou-
Queen Marie Antoinette in the sands of marine creatures. A
French Revolution. Other sections journey along the Great Ocean
of the exhibition include Premiere Conveyor Belt shows them in all
Night, which is devoted to the their glory. Crocodiles, green
giants of the entertainment world. turtles and zebra sharks are
Get there early to avoid waiting among the sea life. For interactive
in long lines (see p129). fun, Eco Pirates can climb aboard
the Good Ship SOS (see p84).
^ London Trocadero
The Trocadero entertain-
ment complex in the heart of
the West End is a magnet for
children. Aside from its shops,
restaurants and cinema, a
Ripley’s Believe It or Not!, a
bowling alley and a bewildering
array of hi-tech video games
and simulators that will keep
them occupied for hours
Sharks, Sea Life London Aquarium (see p91).
68
& V&A Museum of
Childhood
Spend the day at this East End
museum, which has one of the
largest toy collections in the
London’s Top 10
world, including dolls,
teddies, puppets, games
and children’s costumes.
Activities are organized
on weekends and during
school holidays (see p154).
* Coram’s Fields
No adults admitted with- Doll’s house, Museum of Childhood
out a child, says the sign on the
gate to this 7-acre park dedicated
to small children. There’s a ) London Dungeon
The scariest experience in
paddling pool, play areas and a town combines history and
city farm with a pets corner and horror to celebrate an “orgy of
grazing farm animals. d 93 Guilford grisly entertainment”, with death,
Street WC1 • Map F2 • Open daily • Free torture and violence at every turn.
Follow in the bloody footsteps of
( Battersea Park
This large south London park
the Victorian serial killer Jack the
Ripper, witness medieval murders,
is ideal for children. There are the 17th-century Fire of London,
colourful gardens, an adventure or go to your own execution on
playground, boating Judgment Day. Not for
lake, deer enclosure the faint-hearted. d 28/
and a children’s zoo 34 Tooley Street, SE1 • Map
(see p150). d Albert H4 • Opening times vary.
Bridge Road SW11 • Map For more information on
D6 • Zoo: Open Easter to times please check their
October, and weekends in Entrance sign, website www.thedungeons.
Winter, Admission charge London Dungeon com • Admission charge
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69
London’s Top 10
Left Tower Bridge Right St Katharine Docks
River Sights
! Lambeth Palace
The Archbishop of
ring for his hot water like a gent-
leman. The hotel reopened in
Canterbury’s official 2010 after a multi-million-
London residence is a pound restoration. d
famous riverside land- Strand WC2 • Map M3
mark. Part of the palace
dates from the 13th
century, but it is the $ Millennium Bridge
This stunning,
red-brick Tudor Gate- blade-like suspension
house (1490), that gives bridge links Tate Modern
the palace a distinctive on Bankside with St
appearance. d Lambeth Paul’s and the City
Palace Road SE1 • Map F5 Tudor gatehouse, opposite. Unfortunately,
• Closed to the public Lambeth Palace this modern footbridge
suffered from excessive
@ Houses of Parliament
See pp34–5.
movement when it first opened in
2000. It has since been fixed and
is a delightful and apt approach
£ Savoy Hotel
London’s first luxury hotel
to Tate Modern. d Map R3
opened in 1889, on the site of

the medieval Savoy Palace. Its %
Shakespeare’s Globe
This modern reconstruction
Chinese lacquered “ascending in oak, thatch and 36,000 hand-
rooms” were some of the first made bricks is near the site of
elevators in Europe. Oscar Wilde the original Globe Theatre, which
objected to the new-fangled burned down in 1613. The centre
built-in plumbing: he wanted to of the theatre is uncovered, so
performances only happen
during part of the year, but
an interesting exhibition
is open all year round,
plus there is a café,
restaurant and bar with
river views (see p83).
^ HMS Belfast
The last of the big-gun
armoured ships, HMS
Belfast was built in 1938
and saw active service in
World War II and Korea. In
1971 she was saved for
Rear of the Savoy Hotel, overlooking the Thames the nation as an example

of an early 20th-century British World War II and was refurbished
warship and opened as a museum. in the 1980s. The area is surroun-
Visitors can tour the bridge, the ded by luxury apartments, shops
huge engine rooms, the galley and cafés (see p137).
and the messdecks, where you
London’s Top 10
get an idea of what life must have
been like on board. d Morgan’s Lane,
Tooley Street SE1 • Map H4 • Open
Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb:
10am–5pm daily • Admission charge
& Tower Bridge

London’s enduring landmark is
a neo-gothic wonder. A masterly
piece of civil engineering, the
bridge was built in 1894 with Figurehead of the Cutty Sark
steam pumps to raise its two
halves. Tours of the tower include
views from the top (see p135). ( The Cutty Sark
Built in 1869, this is the last
of the record-breaking tea-clippers
* The first and most successful

St Katharine Docks that brought the leaves to thirsty
London. Closed for refurbishment
piece of modern Docklands until at least mid-2011, it suffered
development was this handsome a major setback in 2007 when the
dock beside Tower Bridge. ship was damaged by fire. d King
Designed by civil engineer Thomas William Walk SE10 • Train to Greenwich;
Telford in 1824, the site suffered DLR Cutty Sark • Reopens 2011
severe bomb damage during
) Thames Flood Barrier

This huge barrier across
the lower reaches of the
Thames, just past Greenwich,
was built between 1974 and
1982 to prevent the dangerous
combination of wind and tides
from flooding the city. The
Visitors’ Centre explains the
problem, detailing a long history
Thames Flood Barrier of flooding in London (see p154).

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71
London’s Top 10
Left Geoffrey Chaucer Middle Oscar Wilde Right Martin Amis
Literary London
! Samuel Pepys
The extraordinary Diary of
Samuel Pepys (1633–1703) begins
on New Year’s Day, 1660 and
ends on May 31, 1669. He vividly
describes contemporary life, the
Plague and Great Fire, and an
attack on London by the Dutch.
The work was written in short-
hand and only deciphered in 1825.
Peter Ackroyd
@ Dr Johnson
Samuel Johnson (1709–84)
$ Oscar Wilde
was a towering literary figure Dublin-born Wilde (1854–
who presided over gatherings in 1900) dazzled London audiences
pubs, coffee houses and literary with his plays, and society with
clubs, as well as in his own his wit. He fell from grace when
home (see p52), and had he was convicted of homosexual
opinions on everything. His activity. His plays, such as Lady
satirical poem, London (1738), Windermere’s Fan (1892) and
attacked poverty in the city and The Importance of Being Earnest
his parliamentary sketches and (1895) are frequently revived.
dictionary made him famous.
% Virginia Woolf
Woolf (1882–1941) and her
sister Vanessa Bell lived in Gordon
Square, where the influential
pre-war Bloomsbury Group grew
from social gatherings. She
developed an impressionistic
stream of consciousness in novels
such as Mrs Dalloway (1925) and
Engraving of Dr Johnson To The Lighthouse (1927).
£ Geoffrey Chaucer
Chaucer (1343–1400) was a ^ John Betjeman
A devoted Londoner, with a
diplomat and son of a London fine disdain for bureaucracy, medi-
vintner. His Canterbury Tales is a ocrity and hideous architecture,
classic piece of English literature, Betjeman (1906–84) was made
and follows a group of pilgrims Poet Laureate in 1972. His poems
travelling from Southwark to are full of gentle wit and humour
Canterbury. In 17,000 lines the and he remains one of Britain’s
characters tell their rollicking tales. favourite poets.
72
& Colin MacInnes
MacInnes (1914–76) docu-
Top 10 London Songs
mented the teenage and black ! London’s Burning
Commemorating the Great
immigrant culture in Notting Hill in Fire of 1666, this is sung in a
the 1950s. City of Spades (1957) round, a device popular since
London’s Top 10
and Absolute Beginners (1959) Elizabethan days.
are set among the coffee bars,
jazz clubs, drink and drugs scene @ London Bridge is
Falling Down
at a time of great unrest. A traditional song about old
London Bridge, which fell
* Martin Amis
Darling of the London literary
into disrepair.
scene in the 1970s and 1980s, £ Oranges and Lemons

“…say the bells of St
Amis (b.1949) had a famous Clement’s”. This children’s
literary father, Kingsley, and a song rhymes City churches,
precocious talent, having his first and is sung as part of a game.
book, The Rachael Papers (1974),
published at the age of 24. London $ Maybe It’s Because
I’m a Londoner
has infused novels such as Money The theme song of music-hall
(1984) and London Fields (1989). duo, Flanagan and Allen, it
became a patriotic comfort in
post-wartime London.
( Zadie Smith
Her first novel, White Teeth,
about Asian immigrants in north % The Lambeth Walk
Made popular by the
London, made Smith (b.1975) an musical Me and My Girl in
overnight sensation in 1999. Wick- the 1930s, this has been a
edly funny, it has remarkably well- Cockney favourite ever since.
drawn portraits of London life.
^ London Pride
An uncharacteristically
) Peter Ackroyd
The biographer of Charles
sentimental song that
celebrates the city.
Dickens, Ackroyd (b.1949) turned
to fiction to examine the lives of & England Swings
This hit US song came out
other Londoners, such as the after a 1966 story in Time
architect Nicholas Hawksmoor and magazine announced the
Oscar Wilde. Most ambitiously he arrival of “Swinging London”.
wrote London: a Biography (2000).
* Waterloo Sunset
Pop groups don’t usually
celebrate London, or Britain,
but this 1967 record by The
Kinks was an exception.
( Ain Nightingale Sang

Berkeley Square
A standard sung by Frank
Sinatra and others, it is
actually very unusual to hear
nightingales in central London.
) Burlington Bertie
A music-hall song about
the life of a Mayfair gentle-
man in Edwardian London.
Zadie Smith
For famous London residents See pp52–3 73

London’s Top 10
Left Battersea Park Right Thames path, South Bank
London on Foot
! Thames Path, South Bank
Start by the London Eye and
walk along the South Bank down-
stream to London Bridge and the
Design Museum beyond Butler’s
Wharf. This stretch of the Thames
Path has enough to distract you
all day. d South Bank • Map N5
@ Regent’s Canal
It’s possible to walk along
the whole 14-km (8.5-mile) canal View over London from Hampstead Heath
from Paddington to Limehouse.
The most accessible part lies
between Camden Lock and $ Hampstead Heath
This green grandstand
Regent’s Park, where grand overlooking the city covers 8 sq
houses back on to the water. km (3 sq miles) and is a rural mix
Further on, in Little Venice, of meadows, woods, lakes and
moored “narrowboats” are ponds for both swimming and
owned by the wealthy (see p130). fishing. Head off in any direction,
and make the Spaniards Inn (see
p145) or Kenwood House a
stopping-off point (see p141).
% Hyde Park and

Kensington Gardens
Central London’s largest green
area can tire out any walker. It
takes about an hour and a half to
Houseboat, Regents Canal walk around, but there are plenty
of diversions, from the Serpentine
£ Richmond
Richmond has a lovely aspect
Gallery (see p51), to cafés, foun-
tains and flower gardens (see
on the River Thames. Apart from p28). d Hyde Park W2 • Map C4
its royal park (see p29) there is a • Open 5am–midnight daily
lot to see and do, with riverside
pubs and cafés, and boats to rent.
It’s a half-hour walk along the ^ Battersea Park
This lively park is not just
towpath to the 17th-century Ham for children (see p69). It has a
House, owned by the National pleasant riverside promenade
Trust. In summer you can take a beside a Buddhist Peace Pagoda,
ferry across to Marble Hill House lakeside walks and the Festival
in Twickenham (see p148). Gardens (see p150).
74
& Wimbledon Common
It is easy to get lost in this
Top 10 Outdoor
Activities
wild public space. Start by the
Windmill and go down to
Queens Mere Pond or stride out
! Rowing
Parks with rowing lakes
London’s Top 10
include Hyde Park, Regent’s
along the cinder horse track to the Park and Battersea Park.
pine copse of Caesar’s Camp, an
old Iron Age hill fort (see p150).
@ Ice Skating
Indoors at the Leisure Box
in Queensway. Outdoor winter
* Blackheath
This treeless expanse, en- rinks include Broadgate,
Somerset House and the
joyed by kite flyers, lies behind Natural History Museum.
Greenwich Park (see p29). Donkey
rides are available, and on the
far side is Blackheath Village. £ Kite Flying
Hampstead Heath, Prim-
d Blackheath SE3 • Train to Blackheath rose Hill and Blackheath are
the best places to get a lift.
( WWT London
Wetland Centre $ Swimming
There are a number of
London’s major bird sanctuary public indoor pools. d The
covers 105 acres in four disused Oasis, Endell Street WC2 •
Victorian reservoirs. It has trails, a Porchester Centre, Queensway
W2 •Chelsea Sports Centre,
visitor centre and an observatory Chelsea Manor St SW3.
where you can spot some of the
180 species which have been
recorded here (see p150). % Nature Watching
London’s open spaces and
woodlands are full of plants
and wildlife to discover.
) Highgate Cemetery
Filled with grand tombs,
many of the rich and famous, ^ Skateboarding
Many parks have skate-
this is the best of London’s board facilities. The South
cemeteries. The living have to Bank’s (see p83) concrete
pay to get in, too, and the cem- spaces have a regular clientele.
etery is divided into eastern and
western halves, the latter visitable & Cycling
Rent bikes from On Your
only with a tour (see p143). Bike in London Bridge (020
7378 6669) and The London
Bicycle Tour Company in
Gabriel’s Wharf (020 7928 6838).
* Tennis
For indoors try Islington
Tennis Centre, Market Rd N7.
Outdoors, Holland Park, Batter-
sea Park or Regent’s Park.
( Skating
Wide paths make Hyde
Park the most popular choice.
) Horse Riding
The best place is the
stables at Hyde Park. d 63
Bathurst Mews W2.
Faded grandeur, Highgate Cemetery
For royal parks and gardens See pp28–9 75

London’s Top 10
Left Club Gascon Right Clarke’s
Best Places to Eat

! Pig’s Ear
In the heart of Chelsea, just
a stone’s throw away from the
bustle and extremely fashionable
shopping in King’s Road, this
gastropub serves up quality food
in a warm and friendly
atmosphere. For a calmer L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Covent Garden
experience head upstairs to the
Blue Room Restaurant.
d 35 Old Church Street SW3 • Map B6 $ Club Gascon
Inspired Gallic cooking means
you need to make a reservation
@ Clarke’s
A steady favourite since it
weeks in advance. The original
idea here is that there are no
opened in 1984, the food here is starter or main courses. Dishes
wonderfully fresh, and basically are categorised under half a
Mediterranean, with roast and dozen themed headings, and you
baked dishes to the fore. The put together three of four to
Sally Clarke set menus are the make a meal. Each one is a rare
focal point, but there is also a daily combination (see p139).
changing selection of à la carte
dishes. The wine list favours
California (see p125). % L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Michelin-starred Robuchon
brings his unbeatable gourmet
dining experience to London in
this Japanese-inspired restaurant.
Lobster ravioli and potato purée
are a couple of highlights. The
bar on the third floor is a chic
place for a drink (see p105).
^ Hakkasan
Alan Yau, the man behind
Rasa Samudra, Fitzrovia the successful Wagamama chain,
created this seriously stylish
£ Rasa Samudra
Indian curries are almost a
dining experience. Michelin-
starred oriental-inspired food,
national dish in Britain, but this is such as sautéed sweet ginger
quite different from the norm. The and pineapple roasted duck, with
cooking is stunning, and first- dim sum specialities, is served in
timers will need talking through luxurious surroundings designed
the unusual menu, which includes by Christian Liaigre. The cocktails
delicious fish dishes (see p111). are sublime (see p111).
76
& Orrery
Sir Terence Conran is London’s
Top 10 Places to
Eat with a View
most prominent restaurateur.
This intimate restaurant is at the
peak of perfection and prices.
! Oxo Tower
Terrific river views from this
London’s Top 10
South Bank landmark (see p87).
The menu changes regularly,
and has a distinctly French
bias – including the best fish, @ Vertigo 42
On the 42nd floor of the
beef and game (see p133). City’s tallest skyscraper.
d Tower 42, Old Broad Street
EC2 • Map H3 • 020 7877 7842
* Rules
London’s oldest restaurant
(1798), Rules has a wonderful, £ Le Pont de la Tour
Modern French cuisine
genuine Belle Epoque atmos- overlooking Tower Bridge.
phere, and remains a great d 36d Shad Thames SE1
British institution, not resting • Map H4 • 020 7403 8403
on its laurels. It specializes
mainly in game but is also
known for its oysters, pies and
$ Tate Modern
Restaurant: Level 7
Panoramic river views and
traditional puddings (see p105). great food. d Bankside SE1
• Map R4 • 020 7887 8888
( Barrafina
One of the coolest tapas
% Portrait Restaurant
bars around, Barrafina uses top- Views over Trafalgar Square
quality ingredients to excellent and Whitehall. d National Por-
trait Gallery, St Martin’s Place
effect. Sit at the bar with a glass WC2 • Map L4 • 020 7312 2490
of fino or a small Cruzcampo and
watch the experts at work.
Expect to queue (see p95). ^ Blue Print Café
A restaurant with a spec-
tacular view of London Bridge.
d Design Museum, Shad Thames
) A great restaurant near
St John
SE1 • Map H4 • 020 7378 7031
Smithfield meat market, this is
in a converted smokehouse. It & Skylon
One of the finest river views
serves a delicious range of high- in town. d Royal Festival Hall
quality British cooking, and has SE1 • Map N4 • 020 7654 7800
its own bakery. Try the amazing
Eccles cakes with Lancashire * Swan At The Globe
Look over to the City
cheese. Bar-menu snacks are not through mullioned windows.
expensive (see pp139, 155, 157). d New Globe Walk SE1
• Map G4 • 020 7928 9444
( Top Floor at Smiths

of Smithfield
Above a vast warehouse, the
dining room has lofty rooftop
views of St Paul’s (see p139).
) Coq d’Argent
Fine City sights from this
rooftop garden bar and French
restaurant. d 1 Poultry EC2
• Map G3 • 020 7395 5000
Orrery, Marylebone
For more restaurants See pp87, 95, 105, 111, 117, 125, 133, 77
139, 145, 151, 157
AROUND
TOWN
Westminster, the South
Bank & Southwark
LONDON’S TOP 10
80–87
Soho & the West End

88–95
Covent Garden
98–105
Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia
106–111
Mayfair & St James’s
112–117
Kensington &
Knightsbridge
118–125
Regent’s Park &
Marylebone
128–133
The City
134–139
Heading North
140–145
South & West
146–151
Heading East
152–157
Around Town – Westminster, the South Bank & Southwark
Left Houses of Parliament Right Shakespeare’s Globe
Westminster, the South Bank

and Southwark
range from Westminster Abbey and the Houses

of Parliament to the Tate’s stunning art institutions,
H ERE THERE IS A RICH MIX of things to do. Sights
the Southbank Centre and Shakespeare’s Globe. In between there’s the

spectacular London Eye and other entertainments around County Hall,
former headquarters of the Greater London Council. Two footbridges –
one at Hungerford Bridge, the other at Tate Modern – help to bring the
two sides of the river together.
Sights 5 Tate Britain

6 Downing Street
1 Westminster Abbey 7 Churchill War Rooms
2 Tate Modern 8 Southbank Centre
3 London Eye 9 Shakespeare’s Globe
4 Houses of 0 Imperial War Museum
Parliament
Statue of Queen Boadicea,
near Westminster station
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80 Preceding pages: View from London Eye towards Big Ben and
Westminster Abbey
£ London Eye
The world’s tallest
cantilevered observational wheel
offers amazing views of the city.
While waiting for a flight, visit

the attractions in County Hall –
the Sea Life London Aquarium,
Namco Station and the London
Film Museum (see pp16–17
and p84).
$ Houses of Parliament
The ancient Palace of
Westminster is the seat of the
two Houses of Parliament – the
Lords and the Commons. A
Union flag flies on the Victoria
Tower when the Commons is in
View down Whitehall towards Big Ben session. Night sittings are indi-
cated by a light on the Clock
! Westminster Abbey
London’s most venerable
Tower – the tower that houses
Big Ben, the 14-ton bell whose
and most beautiful church, the hourly chimes are recognized
scene of coronations and royal around the world (see pp34–5).
weddings and the resting place
of monarchs (see pp32–3).
% Tate Britain
The best of British art is held
@ Tate Modern
One of the world’s great
at the Tate and works range from
1500 to the present. Look down-
contemporary art galleries. A boat stream to see the home of British
service connects Tate Britain and Intelligence (MI5). This large
Tate Modern. It leaves from building, known as Thames
Bankside Pier outside Tate Modern House, is built inside a bug-proof
every 20 minutes (see pp18–19). “Faraday cage” (see pp20–21).
View from London Eye towards Big Ben and Westminster Abbey
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 81

^ Downing Street
The official home and office
Whitehall and Horse Guards
The wide street connecting
of Britain’s Prime Minister is one Parliament Square and Trafalgar
of four surviving houses built in Square takes its name from the
1680 for Sir George Downing Palace of Whitehall built for Henry
(1623–84) who went to America VIII in 1532. The palace was

as a boy and returned to fight guarded on the north side at what
for the Parliamentarians in the is now Horse Guards, where the
guard is still mounted every
English Civil War. The building
morning at 11am (10am on
contains a State Dining Room Sundays), with a dismounting
and the Cabinet Room, where inspection at 4pm.
a group of 20 senior government
ministers meets regularly to
formulate policy. Next door, No. audio tour through the rooms
11, is the traditional residence of where ministers plotted the
the Chancellor of the Exchequer. course of the war, or visit the
Downing Street has been closed Churchill Museum which records
to the public for security reasons Churchill’s life and career.
since 1989. d Downing Street SW1 d Clive Steps, King Charles Street
• Map L5 • Closed to public SW1 • Map L6 • Open 9:30am–6pm
daily • Admission charge
* Southbank Centre
The most accessible arts
centre in London still has the air
of friendly, egalitarian optimism
that brought it into life in the
1950s and 60s. The Royal Festival
Hall and the Queen Elizabeth
No. 10 Downing Street Hall have diverse programmes,
while the Hayward Gallery is a
& Churchill War Rooms

During the dark days of World
major venue for art exhibitions.
The BFI Southbank, run by the
War II, Winston Churchill and his British Film Institute, has a
War Cabinet met in these War varied programme of movies.
Rooms beneath the Government The National Theatre’s three
Treasury Chambers. They remain theatres (Olivier, Cottesloe and
just as they were left in 1945, Lyttelton) are to the east along
with spartan rooms and colour- the river (see p56). d Southbank
coded phones. Take a guided Centre SE1 • Map N4
Left Churchill War Rooms Right Hayward Gallery
82
A Day By the River
Morning
Start at Waterloo with break-
fast and a self-guided tour

of the Marriott Hotel, based
in the splendid former
headquarters of the Greater
London Council. Cross
Westminster Bridge to
visit Westminster Abbey
(see pp32–3) and nearby
St Margaret’s Church.
Continue along Abingdon

Street to Lambeth Bridge
and re-cross the river.
Exhibits in the Imperial War Museum Have a coffee at the
delightful little café at
Lambeth Pier, passing
( Shakespeare’s Globe
To see a Shakespeare play
Lambeth Palace (see p70)
on your way. Walk along
at the reconstructed Globe is a the Albert Embankment
magical experience. The theatre for a stunning view of the
Houses of Parliament
is open to the skies, with seating (see p81) across the river.
in three tiers around the sides
and standing in the central court- For lunch, try Skylon
yard. Except when a matinee is (see p87) within the
playing, visitors to the exhibition Royal Festival Hall at the
Southbank Centre. The
next door are given guided tours restaurant boasts fantastic
of the theatre by staff (see p70). river views.
d New Globe Walk, Bankside SE1 • Map
R4 • Bookings (plays from Apr–Oct only): Afternoon
020 7401 9919 • Exhibition/theatre tour: Walk along the embank-
Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am– ment and browse the
5pm daily • Admission charge second-hand bookstalls
outside the BFI Southbank.
Continue past the craft
) Imperial War Museum
It is well worth the effort
shops of Gabriel’s Wharf
(see p85) to the Oxo
to visit this museum, which Tower’s (see p84) designer
documents the social effects of galleries just beyond and
war as much as the technology take the lift to the tower’s
involved in fighting it, with viewing platform for a
great view of the city.
displays on food rationing,
censorship, air-raid precautions Afterwards, head along
and morale-boosting strategies. the embankment to Tate
Concerned mainly with conflicts Modern (see pp18–19) – a
in the 20th century to the wonderful place to spend
present, it has changing the rest of the afternoon.
exhibitions and an excellent shop Have a drink with more
views in the Espresso Bar:
that will appeal to those with a Level 4. Further downriver,
nostalgia for wartime London the Anchor pub (see p86)
(see p45). d Lambeth Road SE1 is a good place to relax
• Map F5 • Open 10am–6pm daily and have dinner.
• www.iwm.org.uk
83
Left Oxo Tower Right County Hall building
The Best of the Rest

! Clink Exhibition
London’s first prison now & Golden Hinde
A replica of the ship in which
houses a small exhibition devoted Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated
to crime and punishment. d 1 Clink the world from 1577 to 1580. d St
Street SE1 • Map G4 • Open 10am–6pm Mary Overie Dock SE1 • Map G4 • Open
daily (to 9pm May–Sep) • Admission charge 10am–sunset daily • Admission charge
@ Sea Life London Aquarium

See thousands of marine * Fashion
Museum
and Textile
creatures in exciting themed set- Zandra Rhodes’ museum show-

tings at one of Europe’s largest cases the best of contemporary
aquariums (see p68). d County Hall fashion, textiles and jewellery.
SE1 • Map N6 • Open 10am–6pm daily d 83 Bermondsey Street SE1 • Map
• Admission charge H4 • Open 11am–6pm Wed–Sun
• Admission charge
£ Duck Tours
This unique guided tour takes
( Young Vic Theatre
in several sights by road before This famous, independent,
plunging into the Thames for a river theatre company nurtures the
tour in an amphibious vehicle. talent of young actors and attracts
d 55 York Road SE1 • Map N5 • Open diverse audiences through its
10am–dusk daily • Admission charge exciting programme of critically
acclaimed productions. d The Cut
$ BFI London IMAX

Giant-screen cinema that
SE1 • Map Q6
shows exciting movies set in

the natural world. d South Bank ) Oxo Tower Wharf
For great city views, take a
SE1 • Map N4 • Open daily (screening lift to the public viewing gallery
times vary) • Admission charge next to the restaurant (see p77).
Check out the boutiques and
% Namco Station
Popular with children, this
galleries below. d Bargehouse
Street SE1 • Map P4 • Open daily
centre has arcade games, bumper
BLACKFRIARS
cars and a bowling alley. d County

ST SO U
RD
Hall SE1 • Map N6 • Open 10am–midnight STA
M FO T HW
A RK
ST
Waterloo Southwark London
RD
Bridge
W
RD
AT
RK
^ Florence Nightingale
ER
YO
LO
O
Museum Borough
RD
Westminster
Lambeth
AY N
SEW TO
North
Fascinating museum devoted to
CAU ING
NE W
the life and work of 19th-century

nurse Florence Nightingale. d 2
Lambeth Palace Road SE1 • Map N6 •
Open 10am–5pm daily • Admission charge

Left Gabriel’s Wharf, Centre Signs, Southbank Centre Right Llewellyn Alexander art gallery
Shopping
! Parliamentary Bookshop
Buy the day’s political & Oxo Tower Wharf
Two floors are given over to
reading, plus parliamentary- designers of fashion, jewellery
related prints and other souvenirs. and interiors and “the.gallery@
d 12 Bridge Street SW1 • Map L6 oxo” showcases cutting-edge
photography, art, design and ar-
@ Lower Marsh
Once London’s longest
chitecture. d Bargehouse Street SE1
• Map P4 • Open daily
street market, stalls sell inexpen-
sive music, clothes, hardware
and food. Open mornings Mon– * Konditor & Cook
This urban village bakery has
Fri. d Lower Marsh SE1 • Map P6 a cult following amongst the cake
connoisseurs. Its funky iced Magic
£ Llewellyn Alexander
This art gallery has changing,
cakes are legendary. d 22 Cornwall
Road SE1 • Map P5 • Open 7:30am–
quality exhibitions, notably in the 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–3pm Sat
summer. d 124–126 The Cut SE1 • Map
Q5 • Open 10am–7:30pm Mon–Sat • Free
( Vinopolis
Wines can be tried out on a
$ Southbank Centre
Free concerts are held at
tour of this exhibition of viticul-
ture, and the shop stocks over a
the Royal Festival Hall and the thousand varieties. d 1 Bank End
National Theatre. Both have shops SE1 • Map G4 • Open noon–10pm Thu, Fri
selling books and music. Second- & Sat, noon–9pm Sun • Admission charge
hand books are sold under
Waterloo Bridge. d South Bank SE1
• Map N4 ) Borough Market
Good food from all over the
country comes to this traditional
% Shops in riverside Gabriel’s

Gabriel’s Wharf covered market near Southwark
Cathedral. d 8 Southwark Street SE1
Wharf display hand-painted • Map R4 • Open 11am–5pm Thu, noon–
glassware, fashion, interiors, 6pm Fri, 8am–5pm Sat
jewellery and ceramics.
BLACKFRIARS
d 56 Upper Ground SE1 • Map P4

R D ST SO U
FO T HW
M A RK
STA ST
Waterloo
^ The gallery for the Royal

Bankside Gallery Southwark
London
W
R OAD
RD
AT
Bridge
ER
RK
LO
YO
Watercolour Society and Royal

RD
Westminster Borough
Lambeth
WA N
SE TO
North
Y
Society of Painter-Printmakers
CAU ING
NE W
has work for sale, and a shop.

d 48 Hopton Street SE1 • Map R4
• Open 11am–6pm daily during exhibitions
• Free
For more on shopping See p170 85

Left Pub, The Anchor Right Swan at the Globe
Pubs and Cafés

! The Southwark Tavern
A popular pub with a wide & Swan at the Globe
Wonderfully located café on
range of drink and food. The the first floor of this handsomely
debtors bar, down below, has restored Shakespearean theatre
individual booths that come with building, with a fine view of St
televisions. d 22 Southwark Street Paul’s (see p83).
SE1 • Map G4 d New Globe Walk SE1 • Map R4
@ Footstool
In the basement of St John’s, * Market Porter
A popular, historic market
Smith Square, this is a good spot pub. Open for traders and all-
for a lunchtime snack. d St John’s, night ravers from 6–8:30am.
Smith Square SW1 • Map E5 d 9 Stoney Street SE1 • Map G4
£ Anchor and Hope

Don’t be put off by the ( Rake
A fine selection of beers is
queues. The food is some of the on offer at this pub near Borough
best around. Great English Market. The outdoor decking area
ingredients make this a is great for summer drinks. d 14
wonderful gastropub experience. Winchester Walk SE1 • Map G4
d 36 The Cut SE1 • Map Q5
$ Monmouth Coffee ) George Inn

London’s only surviving
Company galleried coaching inn is a maze
Serving arguably the best coffee of plain, wood-panelled rooms
in London, this atmospheric café and upstairs bars. Food is served
in the heart of Borough Market from noon to 9pm Monday to
also has delicious pastries and Saturday and from noon to 5pm
snacks. d 2 Park Street SE1 • Map G4 on Sundays. Courtyard tables
are pleasant for dining in the
% The Anchor at Bankside

Snug, old English pub with
summer months. d 77 Borough
High Street SE1 • Map G4
tables outside in summer. The
%/$&.)5,$565 '
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wine list plus 20 varieties of

champagne served by the glass.
d Stoney Street SE1 • Map G4
86 For more pubs See pp62–3

Price Categories
For a three-course £ under £15
meal for one with half ££ £15–£25
a bottle of wine (or £££ £25–£35
equivalent meal), taxes ££££ £35–£50
and extra charges. £££££ over £50

Turkish restaurant, Tas
Restaurants
! The Cinnamon Club
Innovative Indian cuisine ^ Tas
Two branches of an exciting,
served in comfortable, club-like modern, yet inexpensive Turkish
premises. d The Old Westminster restaurant. d 33 The Cut SE1. Map P5.
Library, Great Smith Street SW1 020 7928 2111 • 72 Borough High Street
• Map E5 • 020 7222 2555 • ££££ SE1. Map G4. 020 7403 7200 • ££
@ Skylon
Named after the symbol of & Gourmet Pizza Company
A range of pizza toppings
the 1950s Festival of Britain, the is offered at this wonderful river-
Southbank Centre’s restaurant is side shack. d Gabriel’s Wharf SE1
a classy affair. Guests have a fine • Map P4 • 020 7928 3188 • ££
river view, along with classic
British dining. d Southbank Centre,
Belvedere Road SE1 • Map N4 • 020 * Oxo Tower Restaurant
Bar and Brasserie
7654 7800 • £££££ • Grill: ££££ Delicious modern dishes are
served in the restaurant. The
£ Baltic
London’s most spectacular
bar has live jazz (see p77).
d Oxo Tower Wharf SE1 • Map G4
eastern European restaurant • 020 7803 3888 • ££££ • Brasserie: £££
offers excellent dishes such as
sorrel soup, smoked fish, and
caviar in glamorous surroundings. ( Cantina Vinopolis
Huge, vaulted dining room
d 74 Blackfriars Road SE1 • Map Q5 serving excellent Mediterranean
• 020 7928 1111 • ££££ food. d 1 Bank End SE1 • Map P4
• 020 7940 8333 • £££–££££
$ Bang in the middle of popular ) fish!

Roast
Borough Market (see p85) is this Innovative fish dishes are

handsome restaurant with views served in this modern, stylish
of St Paul’s. Serves excellent and restaurant. d Cathedral Street SE1
well-sourced British cooking. • Map G4 • 020 7407 3803 • £££–££££
d The Floral Hall, Stoney Street SE1
%/$& . ) 5,$5652$'
• Map G4 • 0845 034 7300 • ££££

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Open daily with live jazz every

evening. d Concert Hall Approach SE1
• Map N5 • 020 7928 9370 • £££
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 87

cards and serve vegetarian meals
Around Town – Soho & the West End
Left Fountain, Trafalgar Square Middle Old Compton Street Right Leicester Square statue
Soho and the West End
where everyone heads

for a night out. Clubbers from
L ONDON’S WEST END is
1
2
Sights
National Gallery
National Portrait
Gallery
outside London catch the last trains into the capital
3 Trafalgar Square
and head for its bars and music venues, knowing
4 Piccadilly Circus
they won’t leave till dawn. Here are the great 5 Chinatown
theatres of Shaftesbury Avenue and Charing Cross 6 Soho Square
Road, the star-struck cinemas of Leicester Square 7 Old Compton
Street
and, at its heart, Soho, abuzz with activity as the
8 Berwick Street
night wears on. But it’s not all for the night owl – Market
Trafalgar Square has the National Gallery, the 9 London Trocadero
National Portrait Gallery and free lunchtime 0 Leicester Square
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national and international artists.
On the north side of the square
is the National Gallery (see pp12–
13) and St-Martin-in-the-Fields
church (see p46); to the south-

west, Admiralty Arch leads to
Buckingham Palace. d WC2 • Map L4
$ Piccadilly Circus
Designed by John Nash as
a junction in Regent Street, the
Circus is the endpoint of the
street called Piccadilly. Its Eros
statue – erected as a memorial
to the Earl of Shaftesbury – is a
familiar London landmark and a
Statue of Eros, Piccadilly Circus popular meeting place. The Circus
is renowned for its neon adver-
! National Gallery
See pp12–13.
tising displays, which mark the
entrance to the city’s entertain-
ment district. To the south is the
@ National Portrait Gallery

See pp14–15.
Criterion Theatre, next to Lilly-
white’s – a leading sporting-
goods store. d W1 • Map K3
£ Trafalgar Square
Trafalgar Square – once the
% Chinatown
royal mews – is a hub of the West Ornate oriental archways in
End and a venue for public rallies Gerrard Street mark the entrance
and events. From the top of a to Chinatown, an area of London
50-m (165-ft) column, Admiral Lord that has, since the 1950s, been
Nelson, who famously defeated the focus of the capital’s Chinese
Napoleon’s fleet at the Battle of residents. Here you can shop at
Trafalgar in 1805, looks down Chinese supermarkets, street
Whitehall towards the Houses of stalls and gift shops. The Chinese
Parliament. The column is guarded New Year, celebrated in late
at its base by four huge lions – the January or early February, is a
work of Edwin Landseer. At the particular highlight. Chinatown
northwest corner of the square, abounds with excellent-value
the Fourth Plinth features restaurants. d Streets around Gerrard
temporary artworks by leading Street, W1 • Map L3
Left Admiralty Arch Right Chinese dragon, Chinatown
89
^ Soho Square
This pleasant square, spiked
Nelson’s Column
The centrepiece of Trafalgar Square,
with palms, is popular at lunch- this huge column is topped by a
time, after work and at weekends, statue of Horatio, Viscount Nelson
when there’s always a friendly (1758–1805). Britain’s great naval
atmosphere, especially in hero was fatally shot at his hour

summer. With the most fashion- of greatest triumph, the drubbing
able address in London, many of of the French and Spanish fleets
off Cape Trafalgar, southern Spain.
the square’s buildings are now
His lasting affair with vivacious
occupied by film companies. On Emma Hamilton added to his
the north side is a church built romantic image.
for French Protestants under a
charter granted by Edward VI in
1550. The redbrick St Patrick’s, Balans Café at 34 Old Compton
on the east side, sometimes has Street, are open until the early
music recitals. On the corner of hours. Everywhere fills up when
Greek Street is the House of the evening’s performance at the
St Barnabas in Soho, a Prince Edward Theatre ends.
charitable foundation in A delicious breakfast is to
an 18th-century building be had at Patisserie
which is occasionally Valerie at No. 44, and
open to visitors. such long-standing shops
d Map K2 as the Italian deli-
catessen I Camisa, and
& Old Compton

Street
the Vintage House (over
1400 malts in stock),
The main street in Soho Mock-Tudor shed, give the area its village
is a lively thoroughfare Soho Square feel. Body tattooists are
both day and night. It is at work here, and fetish
also the centre of London’s shops show that the sex
sex scene, and now the site of industry still flourishes.
popular gay pubs, Compton’s of d Map L2
Soho and the Admiral Duncan.
Soho’s vibrant streetlife spills
into Frith, Greek and Wardour *Berwick Street Market
There has been a market
streets, where pubs, clubs, here since the 18th century,
restaurants and cafés have and the daily fruit and vegetable
pavement tables, often warmed stalls remain cheap, cheerful and
by gas heaters in winter. Some, thoroughly Cockney. Half the
like Bar Italia in Frith Street and time, traders talk in old money
Left Old Compton Street Right Berwick Street Market
90
A Walk Around
the West End
Morning
Start the day in Trafalgar

Square(see p89) at 8:30am
when the fountains are
switched on and view the
latest art on the Fourth
Plinth. You could spend a
day at the National Gallery
(see pp12–13), but limit
yourself to an hour or two,
perhaps just visiting the
Sainsbury Wing.
For coffee, head next door

Bar Italia, Frith Street to the Portrait Restaurant
at the National Portrait
Gallery (see pp14–15).
(“ten bob” is 50p) and round
It has fine views over
things up to a “nicker” or a Trafalgar Square. Head up
“quid” (£1). It opens around Charing Cross Road to
9am six days a week. d Map K2 Leicester Square. Note the
statues of Shakespeare
and Charlie Chaplin in the
( London Trocadero
Take the escalator to the top
middle of the square.
Continue towards the
of Funland and make your way bright lights of Piccadilly
down through this electronic Circus (see p89) and the
jungle of video games and virtual- famous statue of Eros, and
then walk up Shaftesbury
reality rides. There are dodgem
Avenue, centre of the city’s
cars, a race-track simulator and a theatre district. Turn off
bowling alley. Themed restaurants, here into bustling
bars, shops and cinemas fill up the Chinatown (see p89),
space, as well as an HMV record with its colourful shops
and restaurants.
store. d Piccadilly Circus W1 • Map K3
• 10am–midnight Sun–Thu, 10am–1am Lunch in Chinatown is
Fri & Sat obligatory. Enjoy the bustle
of the Golden Dragon on
Gerrard Street, or the calm
) Leicester Square
When this square was of the excellent Joy King
Lau in Leicester Street,
originally laid out in 1670 it was just off Lisle Street.
a grand and fashionable place to
live. Celebrities of the 17th and Afternoon
18th centuries to live here include Give the afternoon over to
Sir Isaac Newton and the painters colourful and lively Soho.
Eat a peach fresh from the
Joshua Reynolds and William
stall in Berwick Street
Hogarth. Today the square forms Market, then stroll up
the heart of London’s West End Wardour Street, home of
entertainment district and houses the movie industry. Reward
the Empire and Art Deco Odeon yourself with tea and a
slice of cake at the delight-
cinemas. There is also a cut-price
ful Maison Bertaux (see
theatre ticket booth called “Tkts” p94) in Greek Street.
on the southside of the square.
d Leicester Square W1 • Map L3
91
Left Façade, Algerian Coffee Stores Right Coffee makers, Algerian Coffee Stores
Shopping
! Ann Summers
When in Soho, you have & Agent Provocateur
Seriously sexy high-quality
to do something naughty. Ann lingerie, from Joseph Corré,
Summers sex shops have been Vivienne Westwood’s son, and
around so long they seem quite his wife Serena Rees. Give in
tame – but their products really to temptation! d 6 Broadwick
are rather risqué. d 79 Wardour Street W1 • Map E3
Street W1 • Map K3
@ Merc * I.OneCamisa
of London’s best-known
A Carnaby Street classic, fans delicatessens, famous for its fresh
may still buy clothes cut from pasta, this is like stepping into a
original 1960s patterns here. 1950s Italian grocery store. d 61
d 10 Carnaby Street W1 • Map J3 Old Compton Street W1 • Map K3
£ Foyles
In a street of bookshops, this ( Algerian Coffee Stores
Opened in 1887, this is one
grandmother of all bookshops is of the oldest shops in Soho. It
something of an institution. A exudes a wonderful aroma of
vast range of subject matter is the many kinds of coffee it sells.
covered. d 113–19 Charing Cross Road Speciality teas and herbal infu-
WC2 • Map L2 sions can also be bought here.
d 52 Old Compton Street W1 • Map K3
$ Lillywhites
Infamous for its vast array of
) The Witch Ball
sporting goods that are spread Original French lithographs,
over six enormous floors, there antique travel posters and prints
are plenty of bargains to be are sold here. The street is lined
found at Lillywhites. d 24–36 Lower with antiquarian print and book
Regent Street SW1Y • Map K3 shops. d 2 Cecil Court WC2 • Map L3
% Milroy’s of Soho ;) 25
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Street W1F • Map K3
92 For more on shopping See p170

Left Bar 101’s colourful interior Centre Neon sign, Ronnie Scott’s Right Café Boheme
Late Night Venues

! Ronnie Scott’s
London’s premier jazz venue & Bar 101
Open till the early hours, this
(see p58). d 47 Frith Street W1 funky venue, on two floors,
• Map L2 • 020 7439 0747 attracts cocktail drinkers and has
live DJs at weekends. d 101 New
@ Floridita
A long cuban cocktail bar
Oxford Street, St Giles WC1 • Map L2
serving Havana’s original recipes.

Interpretations of Cuban and Latin * Jazz After Dark
Things don’t get going here
American cuisine make up the much before 9pm, and the jazz
menu. d 100 Wardour Street W1 • Map K3 and blues go on until 2am Mon–
Thu, 3am Fri–Sat. BBQ mixed grill,
£ Café Boheme
French-style bistro:
tex mex and tapas are on the
menu. d 9 Greek Street, W1 • Map L2
sandwiches, salads and light
meat and fish dishes are served
until 3am Monday to Saturday. ( Jewel Piccadilly
A chic bar and club attracting
d 13 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L2 the young, the beautiful and
occasionally the famous. Serves
$ Cork and Bottle

A range of champagnes and
great cocktails and gourmet
snacks including sharing platters.
wines are available at this base- Funk and house on Friday nights.
ment bar near Leicester Square. d 4–6 Glasshouse Street, W1 • Map K3
Open until midnight, Monday
to Saturday and to 10:30pm on
Sunday evenings. d 46 Cranbourn ) PizzaExpress Jazz Club
One of a chain of 80 outlets
Street WC2 • Map L3 in London, this one is open until
midnight, with regular jazz nights
% Balans Café
This lively bar is open
a big draw. d 10 Dean Street W1
• Map K2
24-hours a day. Hot dishes and
sandwiches are on hand to Tottenham NEW
OXF O
R D ST
Court Road
keep people on their feet. Their RD S
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Circus OXFO
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ING
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d 34 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L2

R S
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UE
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AV Square
RY
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ST MARTIN’S LANE
TE
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AF
RE
SH
GE
away from traditional door policy T

N
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Circus
and ushers in a more hip, casual
crowd. Boasts a huge bar.
d 14 Soho Street W1 • Map K2
For more live music venues See pp58–9 93

Left Fernandez and Wells Right Patisserie Valerie
Pubs and Cafés

! Patisserie Valerie
A classic Soho café with a ^ The Admiral Duncan
A small, lively bar in Old
wide range of delicious cakes Compton Street – one of dozens
and pastries: the fresh croissants in the area with a gay clientele.
make it a good place for breakfast. d 54 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L3
Its Frenchness extends to the
Toulouse-Lautrec style cartoons
by Terroni. d 44 Old Compton Street & Endurance
This is what gastropubs are
W1 • Map L3 all about – great food, plenty of
atmosphere (especially on market
@ Maison Bertaux
This little corner of Paris in
day) and a selection of wines by the
glass. d 90 Berwick Street W1 • Map L2
the heart of Soho attracts a
faithful clientele, who love its
delicious coffee and heavenly * Beatroot
A small, bright vegetarian
cakes. d 28 Greek Street W1 • Map L3 restaurant serving delicious salads
and hot dishes, packed in boxes.
£ French House
A small, one-bar establish-
d 92 Berwick Street W1 • Map K2
ment where conversation flows

freely among strangers, this ( The Cork and Bottle
A 1970s basement wine bar
Soho pub was once the haunt of with vintage music, bistro food and
the artist Francis Bacon (1909–92). a fine selection of wines (see p93).
d 49 Dean Street W1 • Map L3 d 44–6 Cranbourn Street WC2 • Map L3
$ Bar Italia
Sit at the bar or out on the ) The Dog and Duck
Small, friendly pub with
heated pavement and enjoy the Victorian tiled walls, classic pub
best Italian coffee in London. A food and British cask ales (see p62).
huge screen at the back of the d 18 Bateman Street W1 • Map L2
bar shows Italian football matches.
67
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d 73 Beak Street W1 • Map K3
94 For more pubs See pp 62–3

Price Categories

Left Arbutus dining room Right J Sheekey
Restaurants
! Italian Grafitti
This bustling trattoria sells ^ Yauatcha
Be prepared to book ahead
quality pizzas as well as pasta, and dress up to enjoy steamed
and swordfish simply grilled with scallop shu mai or venison in puff
oil and garlic. d 163–165 Wardour pastry. d 15 Broadwick Street W1
Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7439 4668 • Map K2 • 020 7494 8888 • ££££
• No disabled access • £££
@ Black leather banquette

Arbutus & JTheSheekey
best fish restaurant in
London in a charming setting, with
seating and wood flooring, with dishes including shellfish and
typical dishes including squid fishcakes. d 28–34 St Martin’s Court
and mackerel “burgers” and WC2 • Map L3 • 020 7240 2565 • ££££
bavette of beef. d 63 Frith Street W1
• Map L2 • 020 7734 4545 • ££££
* Itsu
An oriental conveyor-belt
£ Incognico
Solid French food, such as
restaurant serving imaginative
dishes. d 103 Wardour Street
fried goose liver, is served here. • Map K3 • 020 7479 4790 • ££
The restaurant was set up by
Nico Ladenis, one of London’s
best chefs, who is now retired. ( Busaba Eathai
Trendy Thai restaurant with
d 117 Shaftesbury Avenue WC2 • Map L3 a minimal interior. d 110 Wardour
• 020 7836 8866 • Disabled access • £££ Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7255 8686 • ££
$ New World
Choose from the trolleys ) Barrafina
Enjoy quality tapas at the
that trundle past at this popular counter in this stylish restaurant.
dim sum venue, or from the Expect to queue. d 54 Frith Street
menu of stir fries. d 1 Gerrard Place W1 • Map L2 • 020 7813 8016 • ££££
W1 • Map L3 • 020 7734 0396 • ££
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Piccadilly W1 • Map K3 • 020 7930 0488
• Lunch and pre-theatre menus • ££££
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 95

cards and serve vegetarian options
Around Town – Covent Garden
Left Covent Garden piazza and central market Right Somerset House
Covent Garden
NE OF LONDON’S LIVELIEST AREAS, Covent Garden
is a popular destination for Londoners and tourists
alike. At its heart is the capital’s first planned square, laid
O
out in the 17th century by Inigo Jones and completed by the addition of the
Royal Opera House. In spite of such grandeur, there is still a local feel to the
surrounding streets and lanes, especially around Neal’s Yard and Endell
Street. To the south of Covent Garden is Somerset House, which contains the
Courtauld Gallery and is the setting for outdoor concerts in summer and a
superb ice skating rink in winter. To get the full impact of the imposing
riverside setting, enter from the Embankment side.
Sights
1 The Piazza and 6 Benjamin Pollock’s
Central Market Toyshop
2 Royal Opera House 7 London Transport
Museum
3 Courtauld
Gallery 8 Neal’sYard
4 Somerset House 9 St Paul’s Church
5 Seven Dials 0 Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
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98 Preceding pages Phantom of the Opera, Her Majesty’s Theatre

Opera House has spread its wings
into the lovely Floral Hall, once
part of Covent Garden market
and now housing a champagne
bar (see p56). d Bow Street WC2

• Map M2 • Open to visitors 10am–3:30pm
• 020 7304 4000 • www.roh.org.uk
£ Courtauld Gallery
Founded in 1932 for the
study of the history of European
art, the Courtauld is part of
Britain’s oldest institute for
teaching the history of art.
Shops and cafés in the former market area Located in the North Block of
Somerset House (below) the
! The Piazza and

Central Market
gallery rooms are particularly
strong on Impressionist paintings.
For 300 years, Covent Garden A range of events is held here
was a fruit, vegetable and flower including monthly curator and
market – immortalized by Lerner weekday lunchtime talks. d Strand
and Loewe’s hit musical My Fair WC2 • Map N3 • Open 10am–6pm daily
Lady. In 1980 the Victorian halls, • Admission charge
with their lovely iron and glass
roofs, were transformed into a
vibrant, modern-day market place, $ Somerset House
Once a grand riverside
surrounded by cafés and bars and palace, and later home to the
enlivened by regular street Navy Board, Somerset House is
entertainment. d WC2 • Map M3 now partly occupied by the Civil
Service. A large amount of the
@ Royal Opera House

London’s impressive premier
building, though, is open to the
public. Aside from housing the
music venue is home to both the Courtauld Gallery (above),
Royal Opera and Royal Ballet there are the Embankment
Companies. The present Neo- Galleries which put on a varied
Classical theatre was designed in programme of exhibitions
1858 by E M Barry and incorpo- spanning design, fashion,
rated a portico frieze recovered architecture and photography.
from the previous building, which d Strand WC2 • Map N3 • Open
had been destroyed by fire. The 10am–6pm daily • Admission charge
Left Street entertainment in Covent Garden Right Royal Opera production of Platee
99
% Seven Dials
Also known as “Covent
Covent Garden Architect
Inigo Jones (1573–1652) designed
Garden’s hidden village”, this Covent Garden as London’s first
characteristic street layout was planned square. The low roofs and
created by Thomas Neale (1641– classical portico of St Paul’s
99), MP. The sundial at the Church were influenced by the

central monument has only six Italian architect Andrea Palladio
faces, as Neale’s original scheme (1518–80). As set designer for
royal masques, Jones was
included only six streets.
responsible for introducing the
Nowadays, it is known for its proscenium arch and moveable
unusual mix of shops and leisure scenery to the London stage.
and entertainment venues,
including restaurants, spas and
four theatres. d WC2 • Map E3
& London
Museum
Transport
Some of the most innovative

British designers have worked
for London Transport, and their
posters and furnishings are on dis-
play here. See vehicles that have
served the city for two centuries.
The bookshop sells souvenir
model buses, taxis and goods
displaying the distinctive London
Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop, Covent Garden Underground symbol (see p49).
dThe Piazza WC2 • Map M3
^ Benjamin Pollock’s
Toyshop
• Open 10am–6pm Mon–Thu, Sat & Sun;
11am–6pm Fri • Admission charge
Established in the 1880s, this
independent, family-run shop
specializes in toy theatres, * Neal’s Yard
This delightful enclave is full
theatrical gifts and traditional of colour, with painted shop
toys for both children and adult fronts, flower-filled window-boxes
collectors. The colourful range and oil-drums, and cascades of
on offer includes marionettes plants tumbling down the walls.
and puppets, musical boxes and This is alternative London, with
paper dolls. d 44 The Market, Covent wholefoods and such alternative
Garden WC2 • Map M3 • Open 10:30am– therapies as Chinese medicines,
6pm Mon–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun • www. walk-in back rubs and acupuncture.
pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk Visit Neal’s Yard Remedies and
Left London Transport Museum Right Theatre Royal, Haymarket

A Walk around
Covent Garden
Morning
Take the tube to Leicester

Square and head up
Monmouth Street, where
the delicious smell of
coffee roasting will lead
you to the Monmouth
Coffee Company (see p104)
for coffee and a pastry.
Continue up Monmouth
Street to the small
entrance to Neal’s Yard
and buy soap at Neal’s
Yard Remedies. Check out
Neal’s Yard Dairy round the
Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden corner in Short’s Gardens,
and explore the shops in
Earlham Street. Visit
test out their wonderful body Covent Garden Piazza
creams and shampoos, then sam- (see p99) for the street
ple British cheese at Neal’s Yard entertainers outside Inigo
Dairy round the corner in Short’s Jones’ elegant St Paul’s
Church. Take a look inside
Gardens. d Neal Street WC2 • Map M2
before lunch in the Royal
Opera House’s (see p99)
( StInigoPaul’s Church
Jones built this church
Amphitheatre Restaurant,
with its wonderful views.
(known as the actors’ church) with
Afternoon
the main portico facing east, on to
the Piazza, and the altar at the Before leaving the
west end. Clerics objected to Piazza, pop into Benjamin
Pollock’s Toyshop, then
this unorthodox arrangement, so turn down Russell Street
the altar was moved. The entrance and Wellington Street to
is through the burial ground while the Strand. Cross the road
the grand east door is essentially and turn left to Somerset
a fake. d Bedford Street WC2 • Map M3 House, home of the
Courtauld Gallery (see
p99). Start with their
) Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
Drury Lane is synonymous
collection of Impressionist
and Post-Impressionist
with the London stage and this paintings. Pause to relax
glorious theatre explains why. It by the Courtyard fountains
or at the River Terrace
has a splendid entrance, with Café before checking out
magnificent stairways leading to the Embankment Galleries
the circle seats. The auditorium at riverside level, with
is large enough to put on the exhibitions dedicated to a
biggest musical extravaganzas, programme of contem-
porary arts, including
including South Pacific, My Fair design, fashion, architecture
Lady, Hello Dolly and Miss and photography. For
Saigon. The first theatre on this more photography, exit
site was built in 1663 for Charles Somerset House and walk
II whose mistress Nell Gwynne along the Strand to the
Proud Gallery at 32 John
trod the boards. d Catherine Street Adam Street.
WC2 • Map M2 • Guided tours
101
Left Street entertainment, Covent Garden Right Globe atop London Coliseum

! Free Entertainment
Every day from 10am–10pm & River Entertainment
Two ships moored near the
there are street entertainers in Embankment are open to the
the Piazza, while opera singers public: RS Hispaniola offers
and classical musicians perform pianists and singers with dinner,
in the South Hall of the Central while the Queen Mary has bars
Market building. d WC1 • Map M3 on its sunny decks. d Embankment
WC2 • Map M4
@ The Sanctuary
A totally hedonistic day can
* Oasis Sports Centre
be spent in this women-only spa Famous for its heated outdoor
with pools, jacuzzis, saunas, a pool, there is also an indoor pool,
restaurant and relaxation areas. studios, squash courts, gym,
d 12 Floral Street WC2 • Map M3 • Open sauna and sun terrace. d 32 Endell
9:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–8pm Sat Street WC2 • Map M2 • Admission charge
& Sun; evening spa: Mon (Oct–May),
Wed–Thu 5–10pm • Admission charge
( Players Theatre
The company at this tiny
£ The Tintin Shop

Everything from keyrings
Victorian theatre recreates
traditional music hall shows
and Snowy toys to limited edition at various London venues.
models – Tintin fans will love this Check their website for details
shop. d 34 Floral Street WC2 • Map M3 of upcoming events. d www.
playerstheatre.co.uk
$ Victoria Embankment
Gardens
) Bush House
In summer, outdoor concerts are Home of the BBC World
held in these attractive gardens Service, Bush House has an
by the river. d WC2 • Map M4 imposing portico on its north
side. In the arcade on the south
% Savoy Hotel
Enjoy a traditional afternoon
side, the BBC World Service
Shop sells DVDs, tapes, videos
tea in the Thames Foyer of this and books. d Strand WC2 • Map N3
grand old London hotel (see
p70). d Strand WC2 • Map M3
ST
D
RU
RY
MONMOUTH
LA
NE
^ Built in 1904, the home of

London Coliseum
RE
CH
AC
WY
Covent LD
Leicester
G
the English National Opera has Garden

N
Square LO
ND
RA
retained its Edwardian flavour, ST
ST MART I N’S L AN
with gilded cherubs and scarlet ND

RA
ST
curtains in the foyer (see p56).
d St Martin’s Lane WC2 • Map L3
E

Left Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop Right Specialist travel book shop, Stanford’s
Shopping
! Floral Street
This stylish street is home to & Penhaligon’s
In business since 1870, this
Paul Smith, which sells trendy eccentric British perfumery has
clothes, Camper shoes and cool a glorious range of fragrances
French designer Agnes B. and accessories for men and
d Floral Street WC2 • Map M3 women. Perfect for elegant gifts.
d 41 Wellington Street WC2 • Map M3
@ One of the best places for

Shorts Gardens
* Benjamin Pollock’s
streetwear, this street is home Toyshop
to G-Star, Boxfresh and Miss The place to go for toy
Sixty, along with beauty shops theatres, theatrical gifts and
and Neal’s Yard Dairy. d Covent traditional toys such as puppets
Garden WC2 • Map M2 and musical boxes.
d 44 The Market WC2E • Map M3
£ Remedies and toiletries,

Neal’s Yard Remedies
( The Tea House

all made with purely natural Over a hundred teas – from
ingredients, have been sold at Moroccan Minty to Mango &
this shop for over twenty years. Maracuja – are on sale at this
d 15 Neal’s Yard WC2H • Map M3 speciality shop in Neal Street.
There are also novelty teapots
$ Stanford’s
With an extensive range of
and books on how to master the
very English art of tea-making.
travel guides, literature, maps d 15a Neal Street WC2 • Map M2
and gifts, this shop is a traveller’s
paradise. d 12–14 Long Acre WC2
• Map M3 ) Thomas Neal Centre
This upmarket designer
shopping mall has a range of
% All the outdoor gear you

Ellis Brigham fashionable boutiques over two
floors. On the lower floor there
could ever want plus lots of is a pleasant café and restaurant.
useful gadgets, gizmos and an d Earlham Street WC2 • Map L2
ice climbing wall. d Tower House,
3–11 Southampton Street WC2 • Map M3
0 2 1 0 2 8 7 + 6 7

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Street • Map M2


Left World food café sign Centre Enjoying a snack at Paul Right Outside the Lamb and Flag
Pubs & Cafés

! Amphitheatre Bar at the
Royal Opera House
cakes, as well as filled baguettes
and real French coffee.
Head upstairs to the Amphitheatre d 29 Bedford Street WC2 • Map M3
Bar for coffees, cakes and drinks.
d Covent Garden WC2 • Map M2
& Gordon’s Wine Bar
An ancient cellar where wine,
@ World Food Café, Neal’s

Yard Dining Room
port and Madeira are served from
the barrel in schooners or beakers.
Have a pot of tea or a coffee, d 47 Villiers Street WC2 • Map M4
an Indian mango ice cream or a
vegetarian snack in this pretty
corner of Covent Garden. * Lowlander
Belgian beer and European
d 14 Neal’s Yard WC2 • Map M2 cuisine served in a relaxed setting
attract drinkers and diners alike at
£ Freud
This small basement attracts
this popular spot. d 36 Drury Lane
WC2 • Map M2
a designer crowd in the evenings.
Huge choice of coffees (some
with liqueurs), cocktails and ( Porterhouse
Excellent beers and a great
bottled beers. d 198 Shaftesbury atmosphere in this pub, which
Avenue W1 • Map L2 boasts snugs and bars over 11
levels. d 21–22 Maiden Lane WC2
$ Canela
Portuguese and Brazilian
• Map M3
treats await the hungry here. Try

the black bean stew with pork, ) Monmouth
Company
Coffee
chunky sandwiches filled with The best place in London to buy

chorizo, and filling desserts. and sample really good coffee, as
d 33 Earlham Street WC2 • Map L2 well as a wonderful small café
of great character that serves
% The Lamb and Flag

This traditional pub, serving
delicious French pastries (see also
p86). d 27 Monmouth Street WC2
cask bitter, is one of the oldest • Map L2
in the West End (see p62) and is
deservedly popular. Delicious

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tarts, croissants, breads and


Price Categories

Left The Ivy Right View of Covent Garden from Chez Gerard
Restaurants
! The Ivy
Mere mortals need to reserve ^ Hamburger Union
Hamburgers are of the
several months ahead for London’s gourmet variety and are
most star-struck restaurant, but accompanied by chunky chips.
it’s worth waiting for the delicious d 4–6 Garrick Street WC2 • Map L3
brasserie-style food and lively • 020 7379 0412 • No disabled access • £
atmosphere. d 1–5 West Street WC2
• Map L2 • 020 7836 4751 • ££££
& Orso
A popular, atmospheric,
@ Abeno Too
Okonomiyaki – Japanese
mid-priced Italian restaurant.
d 27 Wellington Street WC2 • Map N3
comfort food, rather like a cross • 020 7240 5269 • ££££
between omelette and a savoury
pancake – is cooked on a hot
grill right in front of you. d 17–18 * L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Experience fine dining from
Great Newport Street WC2 • Map L3 the man who mentored such
• 020 7379 1160 • £££ luminaries as Gordon Ramsay.
d 13–15 West Street WC2 • Map L2
£ One of the oldest French

Mon Plaisir • 020 7010 8600 • £££££
restaurants in London. Daily

specials keep the menu fresh. ( Rules
London’s oldest restaurant
d 21 Monmouth Street WC2 • Map L2 has been famed since 1798 for
• 020 7836 7243 • Set lunch and its “porter, pies and oysters”
pre-theatre set menus • ££ (see p77). d 35 Maiden Lane WC2
• Map M3 • 020 7836 5314 • No disabled
$ This is simply the best place

Rock and Sole Plaice access • ££££
in central London for traditional

British fish and chips. d 47 Endell ) The Admiralty
Modern European cooking in
Street WC2 • Map M2 • 020 7836 3785 • £ elegant surroundings. d Somerset
House, The Strand WC2 • Map N3
% This airy branch of a popular

Chez Gerard • 020 845 4646 • Disabled access • ££££

chain of French restaurants has a
0 2 1 0 2 8 7 + 6 7

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is open 11am–5pm. d The Market, 4RVBSF

6
75

Covent Garden Piazza WC2 • Map M2

'

$1
• 020 7379 0666 • No disabled access 6
75
/ $ 1 (

• Prix Fixe menus • £££


Around Town – Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia
Left Museum Street Right Fitzroy Square
Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
brainy quarter of London.

L ITERARY, LEGAL AND
SCHOLARLY, this is the
1
Sights
British Museum
2 British Library
Dominated by two towering institutions, the British 3 Sir John Soane’s
Museum and University College London, and Museum
bolstered by the Inns of Court, it could hardly be 4 Charles Dickens

Museum
otherwise. It is an area of elegant squares and 5 University College
London
Georgian façades, of libraries, bookshops and
6 Wellcome
publishing houses. Most famously, the Bloomsbury Collection
Group, known for novelist Virginia Woolf (see p72) 7 BT Tower
lived here during the early decades of the 20th 8 Pollock’s Toy Museum
and Shop
century. Fitzrovia’s reputation as a raffish place was 9 St George’s Church
enhanced by the characters who drank at the Fitzroy 0 St Pancras
International
Tavern, such as Welsh poet Dylan Thomas (1914–53) Station
and the painter Augustus John (1878–1961).
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building reveal the huge leather
volumes from the King’s Library,
donated by George III. There are
regular talks and events, a café,
restaurant and, of course, a well-

stocked bookshop. d 96 Euston Road
NW1 • Map L1 • Open 9:30am– 6pm
Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, 9:30–8pm Tue,
9:30am– 5pm Sat, 11am–5pm Sun &
public hols • Permanent exhibitions
are free • www.bl.uk
£ Sir John Soane’s Museum

A particular pleasure of this
unique museum is watching
visitors’ faces as they turn a
Sir John Soane’s Museum corner and encounter yet another
unexpected gem. Sir John Soane,
! British Museum
See pp8–11.
one of Britain’s leading 19th-
century architects, crammed three
adjoining houses with antiques
@ British Library
Located in the heart of St
and treasures, displayed in the
most ingenious ways. The base-
Pancras, the British Library holds ment crypt, designed to resemble
copies of everything published in a Roman catacomb, is particularly
Britain, as well as many historical original. The Rake’s Progress
publications from around the (1753), a series of eight paintings
world. Members have free access by Hogarth, is another highlight.
to these, while non-members The houses are on the northern
can enjoy the magnificent space side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, the
and the regular exhibitions put heart of legal London, where
on here. A dazzling, permanent gowned and bewigged lawyers
display in the Sir John Ritblatt roam. Lincoln’s Inn, on the east
Gallery includes the earliest map side of the square, is one of the
of Britain (1250), a Gutenberg best preserved Inns of Court in
Bible (1455), Shakespeare’s first London, part of it dating from
folio (1623), Handel’s Messiah the 15th century.
(1741) and many breathtaking d 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields WC2 • Map N1
illuminated manuscripts. The • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 6–9pm first
glass walls in the core of the Tue of month • Free
Left Illuminated manuscript, British Library Right Sir John Soane’s Museum
For more on London’s literary figures See pp72–3 107

$ Charles Dickens Museum
Home to Charles Dickens
Bloomsbury Connections
Many Bloomsbury streets and
from 1837–39, during which time squares are named after
he completed some of his best members of the Russell family –
work (including The Pickwick the Dukes of Bedford. The first
Papers, Oliver Twist and Nicholas duke features in Shakespeare’s

Nickleby), this four-storey terraced Henry V. In 1800, the 5th Duke
house offers a fascinating sold the mansion in Bedford Place
and retired to the country. The
glimpse into the life and times
current Duke has turned the
of the great Victorian author and family seat, Woburn Abbey, into a
social reformer. Some rooms huge tourist attraction (see p167).
have been laid out exactly as
they were in Dickens’ time.
Nearby Doughty Mews provides
another step back to Victorian ^ Wellcome Collection
The medical collection of
times. d 48 Doughty Street WC1 American businessman and phil-
• Map F2 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sun, anthropist Sir Henry Wellcome
11am–5pm Sun • Admission charge (1853–1936), who founded
one of the world’s leading
% University
London
College pharmaceutical companies,
explores the connections
Founded in 1836, UCL is one between medicine, life and
of the world’s leading multi- art. d 183 Euston Road NW1
disciplinary universities • Map E2 • Open 10am–6pm Tue,
and has many fascinating Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–10pm Thu,
collections of international 11am–6pm Sun • Free • www.
importance, including the wellcomecollection.org
Petrie Museum of Egyptian
Archaeology, the Grant
Museum of Zoology and & BT Tower
At 190 m (620 ft), this was
the UCL Art Collections. the tallest building in London
The university hosts public when it opened in 1965. Sadly,
lectures, workshops and the revolving restaurant on
exhibitions as well as per- top has been closed for
formances at its Bloomsbury security reasons, but the
Theatre in Gordon Street. Tower Tavern in Cleveland
d Gower Street WC1 • Map K1 Street has a good large-scale
• Bloomsbury Theatre • Map E2 diagram explaining the tower’s
• 020 7388 8822 • www.ucl.ac.uk/ BT constituent parts (as well as
museums Tower hand-pulled beer). d Map D2
Left Façade, St Pancras International Station Right Carved figures, St Pancras Parish Church
108 For more London museums See pp48–9

Bloomsbury &
Fitzrovia on Foot
Morning
Arrive at the British
Museum (see pp8–11) at

10am (opening time) so
that you can enjoy the
new Great Court in peace.
View Norman Foster’s
glass dome while having
coffee at the café here.
Stroll past the great
Assyrian bas-reliefs on
your way out.
Browse the antiquarian

Pearly dolls, Pollock’s Toy Museum book and print shops, such
as Jarndyce (see p110),
along Great Russell and
* Pollock’s
and Shop
Toy Museum
Museum streets. Turn
left up Little Russell
This delightful child-sized museum Street, noticing the fine
is a treasure-trove of historic Hawksmoor church of St
toys. The shop below is crammed George’s. Loop around
with old-fashioned playthings Bloomsbury Square and
check out the list of
including Victorian toy theatre Bloomsbury group literary
sheets, originally published by figures posted here. Head
Benjamin Pollock. d 1 Scala Street west to Bedford Square
W1 • Map E2 • Open 10am–5pm with its elegant Georgian
Mon–Sat • Admission charge houses. Cross Tottenham
Court Road and carry on
to Charlotte Street.
( StThisGeorge’s Church
church was described in Afternoon
a 19th-century guide book as “the See the photos of literary
most pretentious, ugliest edifice in figures such as Dylan
the metropolis”. The steeple is top- Thomas in the basement
bar of Fitzroy Tavern (see
ped with a statue of King George I p111) at No.16 Charlotte
posing as St George. There is a Street, while enjoing a pre-
programme of music events and lunch drink. If you fancy
an exhibition in the crypt. something more substantial
d Bloomsbury Way WC1 • Map M1 than bar food, try a curry
from Rasa Samudra (see
• Open 1–4pm daily and for services on
p111) at No. 5.
Wed & Fri (1pm), Sun (10:30am)
After lunch, amble up to
) St Pancras International
Station
the Brunswick Centre
for some shopping, from
food to fashion. This
One of the glories of Victorian awesome concrete-and-
Gothic architecture, this railway glass megastructure is
terminus was designed in 1874 one of London’s iconic
by Sir George Gilbert Scott. Most buildings. Catch a cult flick
of the frontage is in fact the at arthouse cinema The
Renoir, or have a coffee
Midland Grand Hotel. The Eurostar at Carluccio’s (One, The
International Terminal opened here Brunswick).
in 2007. d Euston Road NW1 • Map E1
109
Left Stylish glasses at Heals Centre Choosing a teddy at Hamley’s Right Liberty
Shopping
! Liberty
One of London’s most ^ Contemporary
Applied Arts
appealing department stores, CAA promotes British art and
Liberty sells cutting-edge crafts, and you can find glass,
contemporary design in clothing, ceramics, textiles and jewellery
jewellery and household items. within. d 2 Percy Street W1 • Map K1
Opened in 1875, to specialise in
goods and silks from the Empire,
the shop remains famous for its & James Smith and Son
Established in 1830, James
“Liberty Print” fabric (see p64). Smith is a beautiful shop that
d 210–220 Regent Street W1 • Map J2 will meet all your umbrella, cane
and walking stick needs. d 53
@ Hamleys
London’s largest toy shop
New Oxford Street WC1 • Map L1
sells everything from dolls to

computer games. Worth a visit * Cornelissen & Son
The most appealing art shop
just to see their fabulous window in town has wood panelling and
displays (see p64). d 188–196 rows of glass jars full of pigments.
Regent Street W1 • Map J2 d 105 Great Russell Street WC1 • Map M1
£ Heals
London’s leading furniture ( Jarndyce
The handsome antiquarian
store is a showcase for the best bookshop is best for 18th- and
of British design. There is a café 19th-century British literature.
on the first floor. d 196 Tottenham d 46 Great Russell Street WC1 • Map L1
Court Road W1 • Map E2
$ French’s Dairy ) Shepherd’s

Write a letter home on these
This jewel of a shop in the fine hand-made papers. The shop
heart of Bloomsbury sells chic, is also a specialist on bookbinding.
contemporary jewellery and d 76 Southampton Row • Map M1
accessories for both men and
women. d 13 Rugby Street WC1 $'

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• Map F2
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Price Categories

Left Carluccio’s Caffè Right Smithy’s
Eating and Drinking

! Rasa Samudra
Exquisite dishes from the
cannellini beans and fried cour-
gette flowers. d 54 Goodge Street
Kerala region of southern India, W1 • Map K1 • 020 7637 0657 • £££
including fish and vegetarian
curries. A cookbook on display
helps explain dishes you have & Villandry Foodstore
Attached to an excellent
never heard of. d 5 Charlotte Street food shop, the restaurant has a
W1 • Map K1 • 020 7637 0222 simple modern French-brasserie
• Disabled, with advance booking • £££ style menu. There is also a café
and bar. d 170 Great Portland Street
@ Truckles of Pied Bull Yard

This wine bar comes to life
W1 • Map J1 • 020 7631 3131 • ££££
in summer when the terrace is

filled with drinkers enjoying * Smithy’s
A hidden gem in King’s
chilled rosé and Pimm’s. Cross serving European cuisine
d Off Bury Place WC1 • Map M1 • 020 with fine wine and real ales.
7404 5338 • No disabled access • ££ d 15–17 Leeke Street WC1 • Map F2
• 020 7278 5949 • £££
£ Bam-Bou
Set in a lovely four-storey
( Carluccio’s Caffè
Georgian townhouse, this is a A touch of authentic Italy in
traditional South Asian restaurant. this quiet square behind Oxford
d 1 Percy Street W1 • Map K1 • 020 Street. Eat hand-made pasta at
7323 9130 • No disabled access • ££££ pavement tables. d 8 Market Place
W1 • Map J2 • 020 7636 2228 • £
$ Its location may not be

Hakkasan
) Tas
salubrious but this Chinese This branch is well placed,
restaurant and cocktail bar is offering Turkish food made for
certainly classy. d 8 Hanway Place sharing. d 22 Bloomsbury Street WC1
W1 • Map K1 • 020 7927 7000 • £££££ • Map L2 • 020 7637 4555 • ££
% Fitzroy Tavern
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Around Town – Mayfair & St James’s
Left Buckingham Palace Right Burlington Arcade
Mayfair and St James’s

HIS IS WHERE royalty
shop and the rest of us
go to gaze. Many of the
T 1
Sights
Buckingham
Palace
wonderful small shops around here were 2 St James’s Park
established to serve the royal court at St James’s 3 Royal Academy

of Arts
Palace. Piccadilly – named after the fancy collars 4 St James’s
Palace
called “picadils” sold at a shop in the street in the
18th century – divides St James’s to the south 5 Bond Street
6 Shepherd Market
from Mayfair to the north, where top shops
7 Apsley House
continue up Bond Street, Cork Street and Savile 8 Berkeley Square
Row to Oxford Street. Home to the Royal Academy 9 Burlington
Arcade
of Arts since 1868, Mayfair has long been one of
0 Royal Institution
the best addresses in town. Today most of
London’s top-flight art galleries are here.
5

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once governed the British
Empire that covered one fifth of
the world (see p28). d SW1 • Map
K5–L5 • Open 5am–midnight daily

£ Royal Academy of Arts
Major visiting art exhibitions
are staged at Burlington House,
home of Britain’s most presti-
gious fine arts institution. The
building is one of Piccadilly’s few
surviving 17th-century mansions
– you can see the former garden
front on the way up to the Sackler
Galleries. Near the entrance is
Michelangelo’s Madonna and
Child (1505) – part of the Royal
Academy’s permanent collection
Victoria Memorial, Buckingham Palace and one of only four Michelangelo
sculptures outside Italy. In the
! Buckingham
See pp26–7.
Palace Academy’s popular, annual
summer exhibition, new works
by both established and
@ StThisJames’s Park
is undoubtedly London’s
unknown artists are displayed
(see p51). d Burlington House,
most elegant park, with dazzling Piccadilly W1 • Map J4 • Open 10am–
flower beds, exotic wildfowl on 6pm daily (10pm Fri) • Free (admission
the lake, an excellent restaurant/ charge for temporary exhibitions)
café next to the lake (Inn the
Park, 020 7451 9999 to book)
and music on the bandstand in $ StBuiltJames’s Palace
by Henry VIII, on the
summer. The bridge over the lake site of the former hospital of
has a good view to the west of St James, the palace’s red brick
Buckingham Palace and, to the Tudor gatehouse is a familiar
east, of the former Colonial Office landmark (see p54). d The Mall
where just 125 civil servants SW1 • Map K5 • Closed to public
Left St James’s Park Right Gatehouse, St James’s Palace

% Bond Street
London’s most exclusive
Americans in Mayfair
America’s connection with
shopping street, Bond Street Mayfair dates from World War II
(known as New Bond Street to when General Eisenhower stayed
the north and Old Bond Street to in a house on Grosvenor Square.
the south) has long been the In 1960 the Embassy building
place for high society to promen- opened on land leased from the
ade: many of its establishments Grosvenor Estate, who refused to
sell the freehold unless 12,000
have been here for over 100
acres of their estate in Florida,
years. The street is home to top confiscated after the War of
fashion houses, elegant galleries Independence, was returned.
such as Halcyon and the Fine Art
Society, Sotheby’s auction rooms
and jewellers such as Tiffany and
Asprey. Where Old and New & Apsley House
The home of the Duke of
Bond Street meet, there is a Wellington (see p53), Apsley
delightful sculpture of wartime House is still partly occupied by
leaders Franklin D the family. Designed by
Roosevelt and Winston Robert Adam in the
Churchill – well worth a 1770s, the mansion is
photograph. d Map J3–J4 given over to paintings,
and memorabilia of the
^ Shepherd Market
The market was
great military leader.
Paintings include several
named after Edward fine works by Diego
Shepherd who built a Velázquez, including The
two-storey house here Sumptuous interior, Waterseller of Seville.
in around 1735. Today, this Apsley House Antonio Canova’s nude
pedestrianized area in the statue of Napoleon has
heart of Mayfair is a good place special poignancy. d Hyde Park
to visit on a summer evening for Corner W1 • Map D5 • Open Apr–Oct:
a drink or meal. Ye Grapes, dating 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (to 4pm Nov–Mar)
from 1882, is the principal pub, • Admission charge
while local restaurants include
L ‘Artiste Musclé, Le Boudin Blanc
and The Village Bistro. During the *Berkeley Square
This pocket of green in the
17th century, an annual May Fair middle of Mayfair was planted in
was held here, giving the area its 1789 and its 30 huge plane trees
name. d Map D4 may be the oldest in London.
Left Shepherd Market Right Berkeley Square
114
Exploring St James’s
Morning
Starting from St James’s
Park Underground, walk up

through Queen Anne’s
Gate, noting the lovely
18th-century houses. Pass
through the alley in the
corner into Birdcage Walk
then into St James’s Park
(see p113). Get a coffee
from the café, Inn the
Park, and watch the
pelicans before heading up
to Buckingham Palace
(see p26) for the Changing
Beadle, Burlington Arcade of the Guard at 11:30am.
After the ceremony, head
up The Mall, past St
In 1774 Clive of India, hero of the James’s Palace (see p113)
British Empire in India, commit- and into St James’s Street.
ted suicide at No. 45. Memorial Turn right into Jermyn
benches in the square bear Street, and check out such
moving inscriptions, many from traditional shops as cheese
seller, Paxton and Whitfield,
Americans who were billeted and perfumery, Floris. Walk
here during World War II. A through Wren’s St James’s
Bentley and Rolls-Royce dealer’s Church near the end of the
showroom is on the east side of street, leaving by the north
the square. d Map D4 exit where a craft market
is held. Head west down
Piccadilly to Fortnum’s.
( Burlington Arcade
This arcade of bijou shops Afternoon
was built in 1819 for Lord George Fortnum & Mason (see
Cavendish of Burlington House p64) is the perfect place
(see Royal Academy of Arts p113) to buy tea, as a souvenir,
and to have lunch, in the
to prevent people from throwing
Fountain restaurant,
rubbish into his garden. The where the dieter’s choice
arcade is patrolled by uniformed is caviar and half a bottle
beadles who control unseemly of champagne.
behaviour. d Piccadilly W1 • Map J4
Cross Piccadilly to the
Royal Academy of Arts
) Royal Institution
Michael Faraday (1791–1867),
(see p113) and spend an
hour on their permanent
a pioneer of electro-technology, collection, including
experimented in the laboratories Michelangelo’s sculpture,
of the Royal Institution, where Madonna and Child.
Window shop along
he was Professor of Chemistry Burlington Arcade and then
from 1833–67. These Neo-classical the Cork Street galleries
buildings house high-spec (see p116). Turn left into
laboratories, the famous Faraday Bond Street, heading for
theatre and a fascinating science Brown’s (see p177) stylish
hotel in Albemarle Street,
exhibition. d The Royal Institution, 21 and relax over a lavish (and
Albemarle Street W1 • Map J3 • Open expensive) English tea.
9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri • Free
115
Left Sotheby’s auction house Right Designer dresses, Browns
Shopping
! Fortnum and Mason
Famous for its food hall and ^ Mulberry
Come here for the complete
restaurants, this elegant depart- country-house look, including
ment store still has male staff clothing, household items and
who wear coat tails. Try the gorgeous leather goods. d 41–2
extravagant ice creams in the New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
Parlour restaurant (see p64).
d 181 Piccadilly W1 • Map J4
& Cork Street Galleries
Cork Street is famous for its
@ Asprey
The British royal family have
art galleries. You can buy works
by the best artists here, from
bought their jewels here for more Picasso and Rothko to Damien
than a century. Other gift items to Hirst and Tracey Emin. d Map J3
be found here include pens and
silver picture frames. d 165–169
New Bond Street W1 • Map J3 * Sotheby’s
View everything from pop
star memorabilia to Old Master
£ Charbonnel et Walker
One of the best chocolate
paintings at this fine arts auction
house founded in 1744. d 34–5
shops in town selling a tempting New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
array of handmade chocolates.
Fill one of the pretty boxes, which
come in a range of sizes, with ( Fenwick
An up-market, small
your own choice of chocolates. department store with designer
d 1 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond labels, accessories and lingerie.
Street W1 • Map J4 d 63 New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
$ Gieves and Hawkes

Purveyors of fine, handmade ) Waterstone’s
This is possibly Europe’s
suits and shirts to the gentry largest bookshop (see p65). d
since 1785, this shop is one 203–206 Piccadilly • Map K4
of the best-known in a street of

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Street W1 • Map D3

Price Categories
and extra charges £££££ over £50

The dining room at Tamarind
Eating and Drinking

! Sketch
The cooking here is some of ^ The Wolseley
The art-deco interior gives
the finest London has to offer. this famous brasserie an air of
The Gallery is buzzy and informal, glamour. Opens 7am (8am Sat
while the pricier Lecture Room & Sun). Book well ahead for the
attracts the fashionable and formal restaurant. d 160 Piccadilly
famous. d 9 Conduit Street W1 • Map W1 • Map J4 • 020 7499 6996 • ££££
J3 • 020 7659 4500 • £££££
@ Brilliantly-decorated in a
Momo & Nicole’s Restaurant
Located in the Nicole Farhi
fashion shop, this restaurant is a
kasbah style, this modern, North popular lunch stop. d 158 New Bond
African restaurant serves tajines Street W1 • Map J3 • 020 7499 8408 • ££
and couscous. The Mo Café and
Bazaar next door serves tea
and snacks. d 25 Heddon Street W1 * Alloro
This Mayfair restaurant has
• Map J3 • 020 7434 4040 • ££££ an airy first-floor dining room, and
good Italian food. d 19–20 Dover Street
£ The Avenue
Join the smart set in this
W1 • Map J4 • 020 7495 4768 • £££££
vast, lively restaurant. Food is

European and caters to the ( ICA Café
Good food at reasonable
British preference for large prices is on offer at this arts
portions. d 7–9 St James’s Street SW1 centre restaurant. d The Mall SW1
• 020 7321 2111 • ££££ • Map L4 • 020 7766 1451 • £££
$ Tamarind
This Indian restaurant doesn’t ) The Greenhouse
Michelin-star modern
disappoint. The food is modern, European cuisine in a serene
original and seasonal while staff Mayfair location. d 27a Hay’s Mews
are helpful and efficient. The set W1 • Map D4 • 020 7499 3331 • £££££
menus are great value. d 20

Queen Street W1 • Map J4 • 020 7629

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cards and serve vegetarian meals.
Around Town – Kensington & Knightsbridge
Left Tiles, Holland House Centre Kensington Palace Gardens Right Natural History Museum
Kensington and Knightsbridge

HIS IS WHERE London’s gentry live. Nannies
push prams around Kensington Gardens, uniformed
school children line up in Hans Crescent and the social
T
“in-crowd” gossip in the Fifth-Floor Café at Harvey Nichols. Whatever time of
year, nobody is without a tan. Harrods is the light beacon of the area; the
solid rocks are the great museums established in South Kensington by Prince
Albert, whose name is never far away. Kensington is the Royal Borough
where Lady Diana roamed. She lived in Kensington Palace, the choicest of
royal residences, and shopped in Beauchamp Place. Foreign royalty have
homes here, too. Such mansions need the finest furnishings and some of
London’s best antique shops are in Kensington Church Street and Portobello
Road, the most fun place to be on Saturday mornings.
Sights
1 Natural History Museum 6 Harrods
2 Science Museum 7 Albert Hall
3 Victoria and Albert 8 Portobello Road
Museum
9 Holland Park
4 Kensington Palace
0 Leighton House
5 Albert Memorial
Decorative relief, Natural
History Museum
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! Natural History Museum
The whole world of animals
of the royal family: Diana,
Princess of Wales lived here as
and minerals is vividly explained did Princess Margaret, the
(see pp22–3). Queen’s sister. Until 2012,
Kensington Palace has become

@ Science Museum
Traces the history of
the Enchanted Palace, a unique
multi-sensory exhibition combining
scientific and technical fashion, performance and dazzling
innovation (see pp24–5). spectacle to reveal the palace’s
magnificent State Apartments in
£ Victoria and Albert

Museum
a magical new light. The
Wildworks theatre
A cornucopia of company cast a spell
treasures is housed in over the palace, creating
this enchanting a mysterious and
museum named after atmospheric world in
the devoted royal which the hidden stories
couple. There are fine of this historic royal
and applied arts from residence are brought
all over the world, from dramatically to life (see
ancient China to Turkish table from 1560 p54). d Kensington Palace
contemporary Britain. at the V&A Museum Gardens W8 • Map A4 • See
Highlights include www.hrp.org.uk for opening
extraordinary plaster copies of times • Admission charge
statues, and monuments and
artifacts from the Italian
Renaissance. Displays are % Albert Memorial
This edifice to Queen
arranged over six floors of Victoria’s beloved consort, Prince
galleries. The stunning British Albert, is a fitting tribute to the
Galleries display more than 3,000 man who played a large part in
objects illustrating the best of establishing the South Kensington
British art and design since 1500 museums. Located opposite the
(see p48). d Cromwell Road SW7 Royal Albert Hall, the memorial
• Map B5–C5 • Open 10am–5:45pm daily was designed by Sir George
(to 10pm every Fri) • Free Gilbert Scott and completed in
1876. At its four corners are
$ Kensington Palace
This is a delightful royal
tableaux representing the
Empire, which was at its height
residence on a domestic scale, during Victoria’s reign.
which is still in use by members d Kensington Gardens SW7 • Map B4
Left Earth Galleries, Natural History Museum Right Albert Memorial

^ Harrods
No backpacks, no torn
Prince Albert
Queen Victoria and her first
jeans… Harrods’ doormen cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-
ensure even the people in the Coburg-Gotha were both 20 when
store are in the best possible they married in 1840. A Victorian
taste. This world-famous in every sense, his interest in the

emporium began life in 1849 as a arts and sciences led to the
small, impeccable grocer’s, and founding of the great institutions
of South Kensington. He died at
the present terracotta building
the age of 41, and the Queen
was built in 1905. It is most mourned him for the rest of her
striking at night, when it is life. They had nine children.
illuminated by 11,500 lights. It
has more than 300 departments
and on no account should you
miss the wonderfully tiled and * Portobello Road
Running through the centre
decorated food halls. Pick up a of the decidedly fashionable
floor plan as you go in. An Notting Hill, Portobello Road,
Egyptian theme decorates the with its extensive selection of
central well, at the bottom of antique shops, is a great place
which is a shrine to Diana, to spend some time. The famous
Princess of Wales and Dodi market starts just beyond
Al Fayed (see p64). Westbourne Grove, with
d Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C4 antiques, fruit and vege-
tables, bread, sausages,
& Royal Albert Hall

When Queen Victoria
cheeses, then music, clothes
and bric-à-brac. Under the
laid the foundation stone railway bridge there is a
for The Hall of Arts and young designers’ clothes
Sciences, to everyone’s market on Fridays and
astonishment she put the Statue of Prince Saturdays. Beyond that it
words Royal Albert before Albert, outside becomes a flea market. Sit
its name, and today it is Albert Hall upstairs in the Café Grove
usually just referred to as the (No. 253a) and watch it all go
Albert Hall. It is a huge, nearly by, or grab a juice in Fluid (13
circular building, modelled on Elgin Crescent). Ethnic food is
Roman amphitheatres, and seats otherwise what goes down best,
5,000. Circuses, film premieres and the West Indian flavour spills
and all manner of musical over into the colourful clothes
entertainments are held here, stalls (see p65). d Map A3–A4
notably the Sir Henry Wood
Promenade Concerts (see p57).
d Kensington Gore SW7 • Map B5
• Open for performances and tours
Left Portobello Road Market Right Royal Albert Hall
120
Kensington on Foot
Morning
Start at South Kensington
Underground station, and

follow the signs to the
Victoria & Albert Museum,
(see p119). Spend a
delightful hour in the
Medieval and Renaissance
Galleries. Follow Old
Brompton Road to the
Brompton Oratory
(see p47), where you
should take a look at
its sumptuous Italianate
interior, with 12 marble
Apostles. Cross the road
for a coffee and a pastry
Café, Holland Park at Patisserie Valerie.
( Holland Park
There is a great deal of
Turn right into Beauchamp
Place, where window
shopping takes in creations
charm about Holland Park,
by such English designers
where enclosed gardens are as Bruce Oldfield and
laid out like rooms in an open-air Caroline Charles. Continue
house. At its centre is Holland down into Pont Street, and
House, a beautiful Jacobean turn left up Sloane Street.
mansion, which was destroyed Check out Hermés, Chanel
and Dolce e Gabbana
in a bombing raid in 1941. What before turning left along
remains is used as a youth Knightsbridge to Harrods.
hostel and the backdrop for
summer concerts. Peacocks Harrods has a choice of
roam in the woods and in the 29 bars and restaurants,
including the food hall’s
gardens, including the Dutch Deli and Oyster Bar and
Garden, where dahlias were legendary Caffè Florian
first planted in England. on the third floor.
d Abbotsbury Road W14 • Map A4–A5
Afternoon
) All the themes of the Victorian

Leighton House Just five minutes north of
Harrods, Hyde Park (see
Aesthetic movement can be found p28), offers a peaceful
in Leighton House. It was de- walk along the south bank
of the Serpentine. Heading
signed by Lord Leighton (see p52) for Kensington Palace (see
and his friend George Aitchison p119) you pass the famous
in the 1860s. Its high point is the statue of JM Barrie’s Peter
fabulous Arab Hall, with a fountain Pan and the Round Pond,
and stained-glass cupola. Other where model-makers
sail their boats. West of
friends contributed friezes and here, the palace’s costume
mosaics, but many features are exhibit includes many of
original, notably the Islamic tiles, Princess Diana’s dresses.
collected by Leighton and his Next door, The Orangery
friends on their travels. d 12 Holland (see p124) provides a
restorative cup of tea.
Park Road W14 • Map A5 • Open 10am–
5:30pm Wed–Mon • Admission charge
121
Left Riding, Hyde Park Centre Serpentine Gallery Right Holland Park Orangery

! Royal College of Music
The UK’s leading music ^ Queens Ice Bowl
Enjoy ice-skating, karaoke
college stages musical events and ten-pin bowling here – but
throughout the year. It also try to avoid the after-school crowd.
houses a Museum of Musical d 17 Queensway W2 • Map A3 • Bowling
Instruments. d Prince Consort Road 10am–11pm daily, Skating 10am–10:45pm
SW7 • Map B5 • Museum open four days daily (10pm Sun) • Admission charge
per week during term time, phone 020
7591 4346 for details • Free
& V&A Friday Late
On the last Friday of the
@ Holland Park Concerts

The open-air theatre in
month the ground-floor galleries
at the V&A Museum are open until
Holland Park hosts an annual 10pm, with a themed evening of
summer season of opera, events (see p119). d Cromwell
while art exhibitions are held Road SW7 • Map B5 • Free
regularly in the Ice House
and The Orangery (see p121).
d Abbotsbury Road W14 • Map A4–A5 * Lido Café
Alongside the Serpentine
• Admission charge Lido, the Lido Café has lakeside
tables. Jazz and poetry sessions
£ Serpentine Gallery
In the southeast corner of
take place on summer evenings.
d Hyde Park W2 • Map C4
Kensington Gardens, this gallery
houses temporary exhibitions of
contemporary art (see p51). ( Speakers’ Corner
This corner of Hyde Park
d Kensington Gardens W2 • Map B4 attracts assorted public speakers,
• Open 10am–6pm daily • Free especially on Sundays. d Hyde
Park W2 • Map C3
$ Christie’s
Visiting the salerooms here
) Hyde Park Stables
is like going to a small museum. Ride around Hyde Park or
Their experts will value items take lessons – this is the best
brought in by the public. d 85 Old place for horse riding in London.
Brompton Road SW7 • Map B5 • Open d 63 Bathurst Mews W2 • Map B3
9am–5pm Mon–Fri (7:30pm Mon)
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d Portobello Road W11 • Map A3


Left Harvey Nichols Right Harvey Nichols mannequin
Shopping
! Harrods
London’s most famous
company has held the Royal
Warrant since 1960. Expect
store has over 300 departments service fit for a Queen. d 2
full of the finest goods that Hans Road SW3 • Tube Knightsbridge
money can buy. Specialities
include food, fashion, china,
glass and kitchenware (see p64 & Antiquarius
Up to 60 dealers housed
and p120). d 87–135 Brompton Road under one roof sell vintage
SW1 • Map C5 jewellery and silverware as
well as more unusual antiques.
@ Harvey Nichols
Another top London store.
d 131–141 King’s Road SW3 • Map C6
There are eight glorious floors

of fashion, beauty and home * Cutler and Gross
Treat yourself to the latest
collections alongside one floor eyewear and browse the superb
dedicated to high-quality food collection of retro classics. d 16
(see p64). d 109–125 Knightsbridge Knightsbridge Green SW1 • Map C5
SW1 • Map C4
£ Burberry sells its famous

Burberry ( The Shop at Bluebird
As to be expected on King’s
Road, the stock here is always
trenchcoats as well as checked chic and fashionable. Women’s
clothing and distinctive luggage. and men’s clothing, books,
d 2 Brompton Road SW1 • Map C5 furniture and even a spa for
decadent treatments. d 350 King’s
$ Charity Shops
Browse the many charity
Road SW3 • Map B6
shops around Kensington and

Knightsbridge for the chance ) The Travel Bookshop
Excellent specialist bookshop
to pick up a designer bargain. selling both new and old books.
d Map B5–C5 The shop achieved fame when
it appeared in the film Notting
% Artisan du Chocolat
Combining artistry and
Hill. d 13–15 Blenheim Crescent W11
• Tube Ladbroke Grove
craftsmanship, Gerard Coleman
creates some of London’s most Bayswater BAYSW AT
ER R D
Notting Queensway Lancaster

innovative chocolates. d 89 Lower Hill Gate GATE
Gate
H I LL
Sloane Street SW1 • Map C5 NO
T TIN
G
Holland
Park
^ Rigby & Peller

Famous for their high quality
N
HI
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High Street
Kensington
IN G T O N G O R E
Knightsbridge
lingerie, swimwear, corsetry and NS

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superb fitting service, this

Left Fifth Floor Café, Harvey Nichols Right Churchill Arms
Pubs and Cafés

! Beach Blanket Babylon
Famous for its wildly gothic ^ Paxton’s Head
A popular watering hole for
interior, this bar serves lunch both locals and visitors, this old
during the day, and becomes a pub caters for all tastes, with
swanky cocktail lounge in the cocktails and flavoured vodkas as
evenings. A good place to mingle well as real ales.
with the fashionable Notting Hill d 153 Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C4
crowd. d 45 Ledbury Road W11 • Map
A3
& Caffè Florian
Expect an authentic Venetian
@ Churchill Arms
Filled with intriguing bric-à-
experience with divine food,
impeccable service and charming
brac and Churchill memorabilia, atmosphere. This quintessential
this is a large, friendly Victorian Italian café is on the third floor
pub. Inexpensive Thai food is of Harrods department store.
served in the conservatory at d Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C5
lunchtime and for dinner until
9:30pm. d 119 Kensington Church
Street W8 • Map A4 * Fifth Floor Café
Open all day for breakfast,
lunch, tea and dinner. d Harvey
£ Open for tea, coffee and

The Orangery Nichols, 67 Brompton Road SW3 • Map C4
lunch, this delightful café is located

in a pretty conservatory over- ( Market Bar
This atmospheric pub is
looking Kensington Gardens (see popular with locals.
p121). d Kensington Palace W8 • Map A4 d 240A Portobello Road W11 • Map A3
$ Portobello Gold
This trendy bar, used by local ) Portobello Stalls
Along the market there are
antique dealers, has a suitably stalls offering ethnic food of
alternative atmosphere and an every kind. The area also has
upstairs Internet bar. There is a good choice of cafes around
also a conservatory restaurant. Portobello Green. d Portobello
d 95–97 Portobello Road W11 • Map A3 Road W11 • Tube Westbourne Park
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Street SW1 • Map C4

Price Categories
For a three course £ under £15

Opulent dining room at Belvedere
Restaurants
! Clarke’s
The menu consists of what- ^ Royal China
A tempting variety of dim
ever chef Sally Clarke decides sum, including delicious char siu
to cook for the evening meal. buns, are the main attraction
Whatever it is will be excellent. here. d 13 Queensway W2 • Map A3
d 124 Kensington Church Street W8 • 020 7221 2535 • £££
• Map A5 • 020 7221 9225 • £££££
@ The restaurant’s romantic

Belvedere & Magic Wok
The menu offers an exciting
range of Cantonese dishes.
setting in Holland Park is enhanced d 100 Queensway W2 • Map A3 • 020
by its good European food. From 7792 9767 • No disabled access • £££
the patio in summer, you may
hear distant opera from the park’s
open-air theatre. d Holland Park W8 * Wódka
Vodka comes in carafes at
• Map A4 • 020 7602 1238 • ££££ this leading East European restau-
rant. Try the smoked salmon and
£ L-Restaurant & Bar

Experience classy contem-
caviar blinis. d 12 St Albans Grove W8
• Map B5 • 020 7937 6513 • Disabled
porary European cuisine with access (except toilets) • ££££
a Spanish accent at this stylish
two-floor glasshouse. d 2 Abingdon
Road W8 • Map A5 • 020 7795 6969 • £££ ( Racine
Authentic French cooking,
including offal and plenty of
$ Amaya’s dishes take modern

Amaya garlic, in a wonderfully “Parisian”
atmosphere. d 239 Brompton Road
Indian cuisine to a new level. SW3 • Map C5 • 020 7584 4477 • £££££
Flash-grilled scallops, charcoal-
grilled aubergine and tandoori
duck are served up in a rosewood- ) Mr Chow
You’ll find authentic Chinese
panelled dining room. d Halkin dishes such as drunken fish in
Arcade, Motcomb Street SW1 • Map C5 this long-established and fashion-
• 020 7823 1166 • Disabled access • £££££ able restaurant. d 151 Knightsbridge
SW1 • Map C4 • 020 7589 7347 • £££££
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• 020 7589 3002 • ££££

Around Town – Regent’s Park & Marylebone
Left Madame Tussaud’s Right Regent’s Park
Regent’s Park and Marylebone

ORTH OF OXFORD STREET and south of the
park are the grand mansion blocks of Marylebone.
Once a medieval village surrounded by fields and a
N
pleasure garden, now it is a fashionable and elegant inner city area. In the
19th century, doctors started using these spacious houses to see wealthy
clients. The medical connection continues today in the discreet Harley Street
consulting rooms of private medical specialists. Madame Tussaud’s in
Marylebone Road may be less fashionable, but the queues outside testify to
their popularity. Behind Marylebone Road, encircled by John Nash’s
magnificent terraces, is Regent’s Park where the residents’ tranquillity is
ruffled only by the muezzin calling from the London Central Mosque and the
bellowing of elephants in London Zoo.

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128 Preceding pages Notting Hill Carnival

of fascinating animal lore (see
p68). d Regent’s Park NW1 • Map C1
• Open 10am–4pm (5:30pm in summer)

£ Wallace Collection
“The finest private collection
of art ever assembled by one
family,” is the claim of the Wallace
Collection, and it is hard to
disagree. Sir Richard Wallace, who
left this collection to the nation
Lord Snowdon’s aviary, London Zoo in 1897, was not only outra-
geously rich but a man of great
! Madame Tussaud’s
Madame Tussaud’s museum
taste. As well as 25 galleries
of fine Sèvres porcelain and
of waxwork models of the famous an unrivalled collection of
has been one of London’s major armour, there are old masters
attractions for a century. The by English, French and Dutch
famous Chamber of Horrors puts artists, including Frans Hals’s
visitors face-to-face with London’s The Laughing Cavalier (see p50).
most infamous criminals. To d Manchester Square W1 • Map D3
avoid a long wait, arrive early in • Open 10am–5pm daily • Free
the day or book ahead by phone
or web to get a timed ticket.
(see p68). d Marylebone Road NW1 $ Regent’s Park
The best part of Regent’s
• Map C2 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily Park is the Inner Circle. Here are
• Admission charge Queen Mary’s Gardens, with
beds of wonderfully fragrant
@ London Zoo
Lying on the northern side
roses, the Open Air Theatre with
its summer Shakespeare plays,
of Regent’s Park, London Zoo and the Garden Café, which,
is home to 600 different animal along with the Honest Sausage
species. The zoo is heavily into near London Zoo, is the best
conservation and you can see park café. Rowing boats, tennis
the breeding programmes of courts and deck chairs can be
endangered animals, such as the rented and in summer musical
western lowland gorillas and performances take place on the
Sumatran tigers. A map is bandstand (see p29). d NW1
provided and their booklet is full • Map C1–D2 • Open 5am–dusk daily
Left Barack Obama, Madame Tussaud’s Right Boating lake, Regent’s Park
129
% Marylebone
Museum
Cricket Club Regency London
Regent’s Park was named after the
This is the place to unravel the Prince Regent (the future George
mysteries of England’s greatest IV) who employed John Nash in
gift to the world of sports. Founded 1812 to lay out the park on the
in 1787, the MCC is the governing royal estate of Marylebone Farm.

Nash was given a free hand and
body of the game, and its home
the result is a harmonious delight.
ground, Lord’s, is a venue for Encircling the park are sumptuous
Test matches. The museum can Neo-classical terraces, including
only be seen as part of a guided Cumberland Terrace, intended to
tour of the ground. d St John’s be the Prince Regent’s residence.
Wood NW8 • Map B2 • Tours Apr–Oct:
10am, noon, 2pm, Nov–Mar: noon, 2pm
& Wigmore Hall

One of the world’s most
important recital venues
presents 400 events a year,
including song, early music,
chamber music and jazz strands
as well as a diverse education
programme. This beautiful Arts
Lord’s Cricket Ground and Crafts style hall, built in
1901, is reputed to have one of
^ Sherlock Holmes Museum

Take a camera when you
the best concert acoustics in the
world. d 36 Wigmore Street W1
visit here so you can have your • Map D3
picture taken sitting by the fire in
the great detective’s front room,
wearing a deerstalker hat and * Regent’s Canal
John Nash wanted the canal
smoking a pipe. This museum is to go through the centre of his
great fun, carefully maintained new Regent’s Park, but objections
with some entertaining touches. from neighbours, who were con-
A Victorian policeman stands cerned about smelly canal boats
guard outside, uniformed maids and foul-mouthed crews,
welcome you and, upstairs, wax resulted in it being sited on
dummies (including the villainous the northern side of the park.
Moriarty) re-enact moments from In 1874, a cargo of explosives
Holmes’s most famous cases demolished the North Gate
(see p52). d 221b Baker Street NW1 bridge beside London Zoo (see
• Map C2 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily p168). d Map C1
Left Residential narrow boats, Regent’s Canal Right BBC Broadcasting House

Exploring Marylebone
Morning
Before setting out for the
day, reserve a ticket for

Madame Tussaud’s (see
p68) for the afternoon.
Start at Bond Street
Underground, exiting on
Oxford Street. Opposite
is St Christopher Place, a
narrow lane with charming
shops, which opens into
an attractive pedestrian
square. Stop for a coffee
break at one of Sofra’s
pavement tables.
Continue into Marylebone

Lane, a pleasant side
London Central Mosque street of small shops,
which leads to Marylebone
( BBC Broadcasting House

Synonymous with the BBC,
High Street and its wide
choice of designer shops,
including The Conran
Broadcasting House has sailed
Shop (see p132). Stop
majestically down Portland Place awhile in the peaceful
like a great liner since it was memorial garden of St
built in 1932. The expansion in Marylebone Parish Church,
radio and, later, television, meant planted with various exotic
that additional, larger premises trees. Methodist minister
and hymn-writer Charles
were soon required, and now Wesley (1707–88) has a
most broadcasting is done from memorial here.
other studios. New plans,
however, aim to redevelop Afternoon
Broadcasting House as a new, For lunch, the Orrery (see
modern centre for BBC Radio, p133), beside The Conran
Shop, is recommended.
the BBC World Service and BBC
For a lighter snack, try
News. d Broadcasting House, Portland Patisserie Valerie at 105
Place W1 • Map J1 • Closed to public Marylebone High Street.
After lunch, bypass the

) London Central Mosque
Five times a day the legendary lines of people
outside Madame
muezzin calls the faithful to Tussaud’s and spend an
prayer from the minaret of the hour and a half checking
London Central Mosque. Built in out the celebrity wax
1978, with a distinctive copper figures.
dome, it acts as a community
Cross Marylebone Road to
and cultural centre for followers Baker Street, for tea and a
of Islam. It is a hospitable place: sandwich at Reubens (see
step inside and see the sky-blue p133), before heading for
domed ceiling and its shimmering the charming Sherlock
Holmes Museum at No.
chandelier. Prayer mats cover
221b, a faithful recon-
the floor for the faithful who turn struction of the fictional
towards Mecca to pray. d 146 Park detective’s home.
Road NW8 • Map C2
131
Left Selfridges columned façade Centre John Lewis department store Right Selfridges window
Shopping
! Daunt’s Books
All kinds of travel books, ^ Marylebone Lane
This charming lane off
including fiction, are arranged Marylebone High Street still has
along oak galleries in this plenty of quirky gems to tempt
atmospheric Edwardian travel the shopper. d Off Marylebone High
bookshop. d 83–84 Marylebone Street W1 • Map D3
High Street W1 • Map D3
@ Marylebone Farmers’ & John Lewis

This sophisticated depart-
Market ment store prides itself on being
With over 40 producers, this is “never knowingly undersold”. If
London’s biggest farmers’ market. you can prove another shop sells
Held every Sunday. d Cramer Street the same item for less, you pay
Car Park W1 • Map D3 the lower price. It has a thought-
ful gifts department on the
£ The Conran Shop

Conran sells homeware and
ground floor, and the staff are
both helpful and knowledgeable.
furniture in the best of both d 278–306 Oxford Street W1 • Map D3
modern British and historic
European design, such as a
classic Mies Van der Rohe * Selfridges
Opened in 1909, this store
reclining chair. d 55 Marylebone has a handsome neoclassical
High Street W1 • Map D3 façade. A London institution,
Selfridges is great for women’s
$ Divertimenti
This innovative London
designer fashion. Its award-
winning food hall is wonderful.
kitchen store has a huge variety d 400 Oxford Street W1 • Map D3
of cooking implements, utensils
and tableware. Open
Sunday afternoons. ( Marks &
Spencer
d 33/34 Marylebone High This flagship British
Street W1 • Map D3 brand is known for
its underwear and

% Alfie’s Antiques food. d 458 Oxford

Market
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Price Categories

Left Orrery Right Patogh logo
Eating and Drinking

! The Wallace Restaurant
Located in the courtyard of
and unpretentious. d 444 Edgware
Road W2 • 020 7258 3696 • Map B2 • £
the Wallace Collection, this smart
café serves delicious lunches,
including big salads. There is a ^ Patogh
Kebabs are a speciality
café and à la carte menu, both at this Iranian restaurant. It is
change regularly (see p50). unlicensed, but you can take your
d Hertford House, Manchester Square own beer or wine. d 8 Crawford
W1 • Map D3 • 020 7563 9505 Place W1 • Map C3 • 020 7262 4015 • £
• Disabled access • £££
@ A distinctive Moroccan wine

Original Tajines & LaSample
Fromagerie
the fine cheese and
charcuterie plates here, along
list complements the hearty with delicious seasonal dishes.
tagines and couscous, including d 2–6 Moxon Street W1 • Map D3 • 020
vegetarian versions, offered 7935 0341 • £££
here. d 7A Dorset Street W1 • Map C3
• 020 7935 1545 • ££
* Orrery
This is a lovely restaurant,
£ Caffè Caldesi
This light and airy Italian
serving French-inspired food. d 55
Marylebone High Street W1 • Map D3
eaterie offers classic dishes and • 020 7616 8000 • Disabled access • £££££
a good wine list. The upstairs
restaurant is slightly more
formal. d 118 Marylebone Lane W1 ( The Providores and
Tapa Room
• Map D3 • 020 7935 1144 • ££££ On the ground floor, the Tapa
Room serves exciting fusion
$ Reubens
One of London’s
cuisine; upstairs is a more
sophisticated foodie
best kosher restau- experience at The
rants offering such Providores. d 109
comfort food as Marylebone High Street
chopped liver and W1 • Map D3 • 020 7935

salt beef. d 79 Baker

6175 • £££–££££

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Around Town – the City
Left Fish weathervane at Old Billingsgate Market Right Old Billingsgate Market
The City
roughly by the walls of the Roman city, is a curious

mixture of streets and lanes with medieval names, state-
T HE ANCIENT SQUARE MILE OF LONDON, defined
of-the-art finance houses and no fewer than 38 churches, many of them,

including St Paul’s Cathedral, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. Don’t miss
the City’s old markets: Smithfield still operates as a meat market, Leadenhall
is in many ways more attractive than Covent Garden, while the former fish
market of Billingsgate offers a great view of the once busy Pool of London.
Sights
1 Tower of London 6 Guildhall
2 St Paul’s Cathedral 7 Guildhall Art Gallery
3 Tower Bridge 8 Bank of England

Museum
4 Barbican Centre
9 Monument
5 Museum of
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walkway overhead. Today, visitors
on the 60-minute Tower Bridge
Exhibition tour still have views
from the 42-m (140-ft) high
walkways. The entrance is at the

northwest tower. It ends with a
hands-on experience in the
massive engine room, and exits
via a shop on the south bank of
the river. d SE1 • Map H4 • Open
Apr–Sep: 10am–6:30pm; Oct–Mar:
9:30am–6pm • Admission charge
$ Barbican Centre
The cultural jewel of the City,
and run by the City of London
Tower Bridge and the Pool of London Corporation, the Barbican Centre
is an important arts complex.
! Tower of London
See pp36–9.
Music, dance, theatre, film and
art all take place here, with top
visiting performers and artists.
@ StSeePaul’s Cathedral
pp40–43.
There is also an excellent library,
restaurants and cafés. Opened in
1982, the arts complex is part of
£ Tower Bridge
When the Pool of London
the Barbican, a major development
covering 20 acres and flanked by
was the gateway to the city’s large blocks of flats. Access from
larder, this flamboyant bridge the Barbican tube station is along
(see p71) was constantly being a marked route. Moorgate, Liver-
raised and lowered for sail and pool Street, St Paul’s and Bank
steam ships bringing their cargoes stations are all within walking
from all corners of the Empire. distance. The Centre looks
Pedestrians who needed to cross across a lake to the church of St
the river when the bridge was Giles Cripplegate, dating from
open had to climb up the 200 1550 (see p56). d Silk Street EC2
steps of the towers to the • Map R1 • Box office: 020 7638 8891
Left Barbican Centre Right Tower of London
135
% Museum of London
An essential visit for anyone
Dick Whittington
A stained-glass window in St
interested in the history of Michael, Paternoster Royal, depicts
London. Visitors discover the Dick Whittington (and his cat) –
City’s many incarnations in hero of a well-known London rags-
galleries covering prehistoric, to-riches fairy-tale. In fact, Richard

Roman, medieval and early Whittington, who was Lord Mayor
Stuart London, along with of London four times between
1397 and 1420, was a wealthy
“London’s Burning”, a special
merchant and the City’s first
display on the Great Fire of 1666 major benefactor. He pioneered
that shows how it transormed public lavatories, building them
the city. d London Wall EC2 • Map R1 to overhang the Thames.
• Open 10am–6pm daily
& Guildhall Art Gallery

On the east side of Guildhall
Yard is the Guildhall Art Gallery,
two floors of paintings of varying
quality and enormous interest.
Many are associated with the
City, and there are a number of
Medieval shoes, Museum of London highly romantic 19th-century
paintings, including pre-
^ Guildhall
For around 900 years the
Raphaelite works. With the aid
of a computerized cataloguing
Guildhall has been the administra- system, it is possible to view all
tive centre of the City of London. the Guildhall’s 31,000 prints and
City ceremonials are held in its paintings. d Gresham Street EC2
magnificent 15th-century Great • Map G3 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Hall, which is hung with banners noon–4pm Sun • Admission charge
of the main livery companies. In
the Guildhall Library are rotating
displays of historic manuscripts * Bank of England Museum
This fascinating museum,
and an intriguing collection of located within the impressive
watches and clocks, from the walls of the Bank of England,
Worshipful Company of Clock- tells the history of the bank from
makers – some from 1600. its foundation in 1694 to the
d Guildhall Yard, Gresham Street EC2 • Map present day. Its unique collections
G3 • Open 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat (& Sun of coins, banknotes and artefacts
May–Sep) (except during events) • Free are supplemented by audio-visual
Yacht haven, St Katharine Docks
136
The City on Foot
Morning
Start the day with a brisk
trot up the 311 steps of the

Monument and see how
the surrounding narrow
streets all slope down
towards the Thames.
Descend and carry on down
Fish Street Hill across
Lower Thames Street to
the historic church of St
Magnus the Martyr (see
p138), where a model of
the former London Bridge
shows the city’s great
landmark as it was until
the 18th century.
Façade, Guildhall
Return up Fish Street Hill
and interactive displays. Visitors and Philpot Lane to Lime
can even handle a real gold bar! Street to see the glass
d Bartholomew Lane EC2 • Map G3 elevators of the Lloyd’s of
London building and the
• 020 7601 5545 • Open 10am–5pm
affectionately named
Mon–Fri • Free “Gherkin”, 30 St Mary Axe.
Enter the ornate, 1881
( Monument
Standing at 61-m (202-ft), this
Leadenhall Market building
for trendy shops,
restaurants and bars. Have
monument by Sir Christopher a delicious lunch at Luc’s
Wren offers panoramic views of Brasserie in the market.
the City of London. The height of
this free-standing stone column Afternoon
is equal to its distance from the After lunch, see the City’s
baker’s shop in Pudding Lane historic financial buildings
along Cornhill. Notice the
where the Great Fire of London
Royal Exchange building’s
began in 1666 – the event that it grand Corinthian portico
marks. Inside, 311 stairs spiral and hear its carillon of
up to a viewing platform; when bells at 3pm. Opposite is
you return to the entrance, you the Mansion House, the
official residence of the
will receive a certificate to say
Lord Mayor of London. To
that you have made the climb. the north, across Thread-
d Monument Street EC3 • Map H4 • Open needle Street, is the Bank
9:30am–5pm daily • Admission charge of England. Continue into
Lothbury and along
Gresham Street to Guild-
) StNearKatharine Docks
Tower Bridge and the
hall, where you should look
at the medieval Great Hall.
Tower of London, this is the place
to come and relax, to watch the Head up Wood Street to
rich on their yachts and the the Barbican Centre (see
p135) for tea by the lake at
working sailors on the Thames
the Waterside Café. Check
barges. There are several cafés, the programme for the
the Dickens Inn and a number day’s events and maybe
of popular bars and restaurants take in a performance.
(see p71). d E1 • Map H4
137
Left Organ at St Katharine Cree Right Carved capital in St Paul’s Cathedral
City Churches to Visit

! StSeePaul’s Cathedral
pp40–43.
take place throughout the year.
d Lower Thames Street EC3 • Map H4
• Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm
@ StOneBartholomew-the-Great
of London’s oldest
Sun • Free
churches, St Bartholomew, was

built in the 12th century. Several & All Hallows by the Tower
Take a guided tour of the
Norman architectural details may church, which dates from Saxon
be seen (see p46). d West Smith- times. d Byward Street EC3 • Map H3
field EC1 • Map R1 • Open 8:30am–5pm • Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm
(4pm in winter) Mon–Fri, 10:30am–4pm Sat, 1–5pm Sun • Free
Sat, 8:30am–8pm Sun • Adm
£ St Mary-le-Bow * StTheStephen Walbrook

Lord Mayor’s parish
Located in Cheapside, St church is considered to be Wren’s
Mary-le-Bow was rebuilt by Wren finest. d Walbrook EC4 • Map G3 • Open
following its destruction in the 10am–4pm Mon–Thu, 10am–3pm Fri • Free
Great Fire of London in 1666.
d Cheapside EC2 • Map G3 • Open
7am–6pm Mon–Wed, 7am–4pm Fri • Free ( StThisAnne and St Agnes
Lutheran church has a
long tradition in music (especially
$ St Sepulchre-without-
Newgate
Baroque). Lunchtime concerts are
held on Mon and Fri. d Gresham
The largest church in the City Street EC2 • Map R2 • Open 10am–3pm
after St Paul’s, St Sepulchre is Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri • Free
famous for its peal of 12 bells.
Recitals are held on Wednesdays.
d Holborn Viaduct EC1 • Map Q1 • Open ) StBeautiful
Lawrence Jewry
stained glass win-
2–5pm daily, 11am–5pm Wed • Free dows of historic figures are the
highlight here. d Guildhall EC2 • Map
% StOneKatharine Cree
of eight churches to
R2 • Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri • Free
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elegant pulpit. Regular recitals
138 For more London churches See pp46–7

Price Categories

Top Floor at Smiths of Smithfield
Eating and Drinking

! StA delightful
John
restaurant serv- ^ Eastway @ Andaz
New York style brasserie
ing excellent British food. Delicious serving hearty dishes including
light bar meals available (see also grilled meats. d 40 Liverpool Street
St John Bread & Wine, p157). EC2 • Map H3 • 020 7618 7000 • £££
d 26 St John Street EC1 • Map F2
• 020 7251 0848 • Disabled access to bar
but not to restaurant or toilets • ££££ & 1Modern
Lombard Street
European fare served
in a former banking hall. This is
@ Top Floor at Smiths

of Smithfield
one of the city’s most striking
dining locations. d 1 Lombard Street
This warehouse restaurant serves EC3 • Map G3 • 020 7929 6611 • ££££
meat market specials (see also
p77). A café on the ground floor
turns into a bar in the evening * Café Below
Canteen in the crypt of St
and there is an informal Mary-le-Bow church. Serves break-
restaurant on the second floor. fast, lunch and dinner. d Cheapside
d 66–77 Charterhouse Street EC1 • Map EC2 • Map G3 • 020 7329 0789 • £
Q1 • 020 7251 7950 • £££
£Top-notch cuisine from south-

Club Gascon ( Shaw’s Booksellers
Quirky pub and bar with a
splendid array of beers and
west France. Pick three or four wines. d 31–34 St Andrew’s Hill EC4
“taster” dishes, such as venison • Map Q2 • 020 7489 7999 • £££
scallops, or there is a five-course
gourmet “tasting” menu, includ-
ing wines. d 57 West Smithfield EC1 ) Vertigo 42
Take in the incredible views
• Map R1 • 020 7796 0600 • ££££ at this ostentatious, sky-scraping
champagne bar on the 42nd floor.
$ Sweetings
This is a lunchtime haven
d Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street EC2
• Map H3 • 020 7877 7842 • £££££
for fish lovers. Starters such as
$
/'(56*$7(
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gallery of the City’s Royal
Exchange. d Royal Exchange EC3
• Map H3 • 020 7618 2483 • £££££
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and 139
serve vegetarian meals. Many City restaurants close at weekends.
Around Town – Heading North
Left View over London from Hampstead Heath Right Camden Lock Market
Heading North
B EYOND REGENT’S PARK AND THE RAILWAY TERMINI of Euston, King’s

Cross and St Pancras, North London drifts up into areas that were once
distant villages where the rich built their country mansions to escape the city.
Many of these houses remain and several are open for the public to wander
around and imagine a bygone age. Parts of their extensive grounds now make
up the wild and lofty expanse of Hampstead Heath. Some of the “villages”,
such as Hampstead and Highgate, are still distinct from the urban sprawl
that surrounds them. Home to the wealthy, cultured and famous, their
attractive streets are full of well-preserved architecture as well as dozens of
inviting pubs and restaurants. Other parts of North London have different
flavours, however – from bustling Camden, with its canal-side market, lively
pubs and clubs, to fashionable Islington, with its clothes and
antique shops, good restaurants, smart cafés and bars.
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walking. Covering 800 acres of
countryside, it contains ancient
woodlands and ponds for swim-
ming and fishing. The high point
of Parliament Hill has great city

views and is a popular place for
kite-flying (see p74). d Heath Infor-
mation Centre, Staff Yard, Highgate Road
NW5 • Tube Hampstead • 020 7482 7073
£ Keats House
Keats Grove, off Downshire
Hill, is one of the loveliest areas
of Hampstead. The house where
Hampstead Heath the poet John Keats wrote much
of his work is a pretty white villa,
! Camden Markets
The most exciting North
containing facsimiles of his fragile
manuscripts and letters, as well
London markets are open every as some personal possessions.
weekend, and linked by the busy Poetry readings and talks take
and colourful Camden High place regularly (see p52). d Keats
Street. Camden Market, near Grove NW3 • Train Hampstead Heath,
the tube station, is packed with tube Hampstead or Belsize Park • For
stalls selling clothes, shoes and opening times see www.cityoflondon.gov.
jewellery. Further up the road, by uk • Admission charge
the canal, Camden Lock Market
focuses on crafts and ethnic
goods. Stalls in the warehouses $ Freud Museum
Sigmund Freud, the founder
of Stables Market have great food of psychoanalysis, and his daugh-
on sale. Open weekends only ter Anna, came to live here when
between 8am and 6pm (see he fled Nazi-occupied Vienna. The
p65). d Camden High Street & Chalk house contains Freud’s collection
Farm Road NW1 • Tube Camden Town of antiques, his library, including
first editions of his own works,
@ Hampstead Heath and

Parliament Hill
and the famous couch on which
his patients related their dreams.
A welcome retreat from the city, (see p52). d 20 Maresfield Gardens
this large, open area is one of NW3 • Tube Finchley Road • Open noon–
the best places in London for 5pm Wed–Sun • Admission charge
Regent’s Canal, Camden Lock
141
% Kenwood House
This magnificent mansion,
Hampstead Wells
Hampstead’s heyday began in the
filled with Old Masters, is set early 18th century, when a spring
in an idyllic lakeside estate on in Well Walk was recognized as
the edge of Hampstead Heath. having medicinal properties. This
Vermeer’s The Guitar Player and brought Londoners flocking to

a self-portrait by Rembrandt are take the waters in the Pump
Room within the Great Room in
among the star attractions.
Well Walk, which also housed an
Concerts are held by the lake in Assembly Room for dances and
summer – audiences sit in the concerts. The spa gradually fell
grassy bowl, with picnics to sus- into disrepute, but Hampstead
tain them (see p51). d Hampstead retained its fashionable status.
Lane NW3 • Tube Highgate • Open
11:30am–4pm daily • Pre-booked tours
available • Free with the house in 1952. A formal
walled garden contains an orchard.
^ Burgh House
Built in 1703, Burgh House
d Hampstead Grove NW3 • Tube Hamp-
stead • Open Mar–Nov: 2–5pm Wed–Fri,
houses Hampstead Museum, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun • Admission charge
which has a good selection of
local books and a map of the
famous people who have lived * 2Designed
Willow Road
in 1939 by the
in the area. The panelled music architect Ernö Goldfinger for
room is used for art exhibitions, himself and his wife, the artist
concerts and meetings, and Ursula Blackwell, this is one of
there is a pleasant café with the most important examples
garden tables. d New End Square of modern architecture in the
NW3 • Tube Hampstead • Open noon– UK. A film helps put the life and
5pm Wed–Fri, Sun • Free times of the couple in context.
Goldfinger designed all the
& Fenton House

This splendid 1686 mansion
furniture and collected some
fine works by Henry Moore,
is the oldest in Hampstead. Its Max Ernst and Marcel Duchamp.
exceptionally fine collection of d 2 Willow Road NW3 • Train to Hampstead
Oriental and European porcelain, Heath • Open Mar–Oct: noon–5pm Thu–
furniture and needlework was Sun, Nov: noon–5pm Sat & Sun • Tours:
bequeathed to the National Trust noon, 1pm, 2pm • Admission charge
Left Staircase, Burgh House Right Fenton House
142
Exploring the North
Morning
Starting at Hampstead
tube station, head left

down pretty Flask Walk
(The Flask pub once sold
spa water) to the local
museum in Burgh House
for some background on
the area. Then spend some
time exploring the many
attractive back streets,
which are lined with expen-
sive Georgian houses and
mansions. Visit Well Walk,
fashionable in the days of
Memorial, Highgate Cemetery the Hampstead spa (a
fountain in Well Passage
on the left still remains),
( Lauderdale House
Dating from the late 16th
and Elm Row, where D H
Lawrence lived at No. 1.
century, Lauderdale House was
once associated with Charles II Stop for a coffee at one
and his mistress Nell Gwynne. of the many cafés along
Hampstead High Street
It now houses a popular arts and and then make your way
cultural centre, with regular to Keats House (see p141),
concerts, exhibitions and Sunday spending half an hour
craft and antique fairs. d Highgate looking around. Afterwards,
Hill N6 • Tube Highgate • Open 11am–4pm a stroll across Hampstead
Heath to Kenwood House
Tue–Fri, varies Sat (call 020 834 88716 to will prepare you for lunch.
check), noon–5pm Sun
Afternoon
) On the opposite side of the
Highgate Cemetery The Brew House at
Kenwood serves excellent
Heath to Hampstead, Highgate light meals and has a fine
grew up as a healthy, countrified position beside the house,
overlooking the lake. After
place for nobility who built large lunch, a visit to the house
mansions here. Many of the will take an hour or so.
famous people who lived in the
area are buried in Highgate Leave the Heath by the
Cemetery. Soon after it had been nearby East Lodge and
catch a No. 210 bus back
consecrated in 1839, its Victorian towards Hampstead. The
architecture and fine views made bus passes the Spaniards
it a popular outing for Londoners. Inn (see p63) and White-
Karl Marx and the novelist George stone Pond – the highest
Eliot are buried in the less glam- point on the Heath. Alight
at the pond and walk to
orous East Cemetery (see p75) the tube station, taking a
d Swain’s Lane N6 • Tube Archway • 020 train to Camden Town. Get
8340 1834 • East Cemetery: open Mar– lost for the rest of the after-
Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat– noon in lively Camden Lock
Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 11am– Market (see p141), ending
the day with a drink and
4pm Sat–Sun. Closed for funerals (phone some food on the Lock
to check). Admission charge • West Tavern roof terrace.
Cemetery: tours only. Admission charge
143
Left Almeida Theatre Right Crafts Council Research Library façade
Best of the Rest

! Sadler’s Wells
London’s premier venue ^ Camden Arts Centre
Known for its fascinating
for dance attracts internationally contemporary art exhibitions
renowned artists and companies and excellent art book shop.
from around the world (see p57). d Arkwright Road NW3 • Train or Tube
d Rosebery Avenue EC1 • Map F2 to Finchley Road • 020 7472 5500
• 0844 412 4300 • www.sadlerswells.com
@ Freightliners Farm & Crafts Council

Research Library
A little bit of the countryside Books, videos and an image
in the city with animals, produce, database on British contemporary
gardens and a vegetarian café. craftwork. By appointment only.
d Sheringham Road N7 • Tube Highbury & d 44a Pentonville Road N1 • Map F1
Islington, Caledonian Road • 020 7609 0467 • 020 7806 2501 • Free
£ Almeida Theatre
This famous local theatre * Hampstead Theatre
This important fringe
attracts the best actors and theatre is a venue for ambitious
directors from the UK and the US. new writing, and has produced
The bar serves cocktails and light plays by such innovative British
meals and snacks. d Almeida Street artists as Harold Pinter, Michael
N1 • Tube Angel or Highbury & Islington Frayn and Mike Leigh. d Eton
• 020 7359 4404 • www.almeida.co.uk Avenue NW3 • Tube Swiss Cottage (exit
2) • 020 7722 9301
$ Alexandra Palace
Located in a beautiful park,
( Regent’s Park Golf and
this reconstructed 1873 exhibi- Tennis School
tion centre offers a range of This floodlit facility is open
amusements, including regular for golf and tennis from 8am–
antique fairs. Tours of the 1920s 9pm daily. d Outer Circle, Regent’s
BBC studios may be booked. Park NW1 • Tube Camden Town • 020
d Tube Wood Green • BBC tours: 020 7724 0643
8365 2121
% King’s Head Theatre Pub ) Emirates Stadium Tours

Home to Arsenal Football
A busy but delightful Victorian Club, the tour offers a look
pub with a 110-seat theatre behind the scenes of the
showing musicals and fringe per- stadium: the directors’ box,
formances at the back. A wide home changing room, players’
selection of wines, beers, spirits tunnel and press conference
and real ales. Bands and DJs room as well as the Arsenal
also feature. d 115 Upper Street N1 Museum. d Highbury N5 • Tube
• Map F1 • 020 7226 8561 Arsenal • 020 7619 5000
144 For more London theatres See pp56–7

Price Categories

Left Metrogusto Right Camino, King’s Cross
Eating and Drinking

! Afghan Kitchen
This great little restaurant ^ Lemonia
Traditional and modern
is popular among Islington Greek dishes are served in a
locals and serves a tempting brasserie-style setting. There
selection of home-cooked is an attractive conservatory.
Afghan food. d 35 Islington Green N1 d 89 Regent’s Park Road NW1
• Map F1 • 020 7359 8019 • £ • Tube Chalk Farm • 020 7586 7454 • £££
@ Manna
Global vegan cuisine is & Rotunda
A classy restaurant with fine
served with style in this modern views of the Battlebridge Basin.
restaurant with a welcoming Try the roast loin of lamb with
ambience. Seasonal menus. d 4 confit cabbage and dauphinoise
Erskine Road, Primrose Hill NW3 • Tube potatoes; the meat is sourced
Chalk Farm • 020 7722 8028 • ££££ from their own farm. d 90 York Way
N1 • Map E1 • 020 7014 2840 • ££££
£ A great alternative to the

S&M Café
* Louis Patisserie
British greasy spoon, this café This wonderful old tea room
serves sausages and mash as is part of Hampstead folklore.
well as other comfort food made Sink into a comfortable sofa and
from quality ingredients. Choose sample some of the tempting
from over half a dozen varieties, cakes on display in the window.
from traditional pork to steak and d 32 Heath Street NW3 • Tube
guiness sausages. d 4–6 Essex Hampstead • 020 7435 9908 • £
Road N1 • Map G1 • 020 7359 5361 • ££
$ This Italian restaurant offers

Metrogusto ( The Flask
Dating from 1700, this pub
has a country atmosphere and
authentic pasta dishes, as well good cask beer. Home-made pub
as such oddities as the surpris- food, lunchtime and evenings.
ingly appetizing parmesan d 14 Flask Walk NW3 • Tube Hampstead
cheese ice cream. Excellent • 020 7435 4580 • £££
house wines. d 14 Theberton Street
N1 • Map F1 • 020 7226 9400 • ££££
) Spaniards Inn
Opposite the toll house on
% Camino
Offering tapas and great
Hampstead Heath, this is one
of London’s most famous old
cocktails as well as Spanish pubs. Traditional English pub
wines, sherries and traditional ci- food is mingled with more exotic
der, Camino is a welcome addi- choices such as calamari (squid).
tion to King’s Cross. d 3 Varnisher’s d Spaniards Road NW3 • 020 8731 6571
Yard N1 • Map E1 • 020 7841 7331 • £££ • Tube Hampstead, Golders Green • ££

Around Town – South & West
Left Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich Right Deer in Richmond Park
South and West

T HE PALACES THAT ONCE GRACED LONDON’S river to the south and west
of the city centre were built in places that remain popular today, from
Hampton Court and Richmond in the west, downriver to Greenwich. There,
on a deep meander in the Thames, a vast Tudor palace was the dramatic
first sight of the city for anyone arriving by ship. That palace has been
replaced by Wren’s handsome Royal Naval College, a stunning riverside
building that is the high point of this World Heritage Site and the start of
the many delights of Greenwich Park. These include the Royal Observatory
Greenwich, home of world time. Richmond’s palace has also disappeared, but
opposite the Park lies Kew Palace in the grounds of the incomparable Royal
Botanic Gardens. Chiswick House, Ham House and Syon House are the best
of a number of palatial mansions near Richmond, while culture is catered for
in the Dulwich Picture Gallery and the Horniman Museum.
Sights
1 Hampton Court 6 Chiswick House
2 Greenwich 7 Horniman Museum
and Gardens
3 Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew 8 Syon House and Park
4 Richmond 9 Ham House
5 Dulwich Picture 0 Wimbledon Lawn
Gallery Tennis Museum
Carving over entrance to
remains of Richmond Palace
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@ Greenwich
The World Heritage Site of
Greenwich includes Sir Christopher
Wren’s Old Royal Naval College,
Greenwich Park (see p29), the

Planetarium and the Royal Obser-
vatory Greenwich where the
Prime Meridian, Longitude 0°, was
established. In the fine park are
the Queen’s House (see p55) and
National Maritime Museum (see
p48). Greenwich has several
Palm House, Kew Gardens excellent restaurants and marine-
related shops as well as a market
! Hampton Court
Visiting this historic, royal
selling arts, crafts and antiques.
The old tea clipper, the Cutty
Tudor palace and its extensive Sark (see p71), is being restored
grounds is a popular day out nearby. d Greenwich SE10 • Train to
from London. As well as family Greenwich; DLR Cutty Sark, Greenwich
trails and special exhibitions, • Royal Observatory Greenwich: Open
tours of six separate areas with 10am–5pm daily • Admission charge
costumed or audio guides are
available. Events held here
throughout the year include a £ Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew
week-long music festival in June, This former royal garden holds
which regularly attracts big-name the world’s largest plant collection
performers. In July, the grounds of around 30,000 specimens.
are filled by the world’s largest Kew Palace and Queen Char-
flower show, organized by the lotte’s Cottage (see p54) were
Royal Horticultural Society. A used as residences by George
frequent train service from III, whose mother, Princess
Waterloo takes about half an hour Augusta, laid the first garden
but for a delightfully leisurely trip, here. Take a Kew Explorer Land
catch a boat from Westminster train tour of the gardens – you
Pier, which takes about four hours can get on and off it any time.
(see pp54–5). d East Molesey, Surrey d Kew TW9 • Train & tube Kew Gardens
• Train Hampton Court • Open Apr–Oct: • 020 8332 5655 • Open 9:30am daily;
10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm closing times vary between 4:15–5:30pm
daily (last adm 1 hour before closing) in winter and from 6–7:30pm in summer.
• Admission charge Call for information • Admission charge
Left Hampton Court Centre Clock at Royal Observatory Right Queen Charlotte’s Cottage

$ Richmond
This attractive, wealthy
Greenwich Palace
The ruins of this enormous royal
riverside suburb, with its quaint riverside palace lie beneath the
shops and pubs and pretty lanes, Old Royal Naval College green.
is particularly worth a visit for its Many of the Tudor monarchs lived
attractive riverside walks (see here, including Henry VI, Henry

p74) and its vast royal park (see VII and Henry VIII. Abandoned
p29). There is also a spacious under the Commonwealth in
1652, it was eventually demo-
Green, where cricket is played in
lished for Wren’s present buildings.
summer, which is overlooked by
the lovely restored Richmond
Theatre and the early 18th-
century Maids of Honour Row, ^ Chiswick House
This piece of Italy in London
which stands next to the last is a high spot of English 18th-
vestiges of an enormous century architecture. The square
Tudor Palace. For some villa, with its dome and portico,
history visit the local was built for Lord Burl-
Museum, in the Old ington, with beautifully
Town Hall, where the painted interiors by
visitor information William Kent. Temples,
centre is based. statues and a lake
d Richmond, Surrey • Train complete the Italianate
to Richmond • Museum of Restored façade of gardens. There is also a
Richmond: open 11am–5pm Richmond Theatre modern café. d Burlington
Tue–Sat, admission charge Lane, Chiswick W4 • Tube
Turnham Green • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–
% Dulwich Picture Gallery

This wonderful gallery
5pm Wed–Sun (to 2pm Sat); Nov–Mar: by
appointment • Admission charge
(see p51) is opposite the main
entrance to Dulwich Park and
is well worth the journey from & Horniman Museum
This distinctive museum with
Central London. Apart from the displays on the cultural and nat-
stunning collection, there are ural world, appeals to both adults
regular exhibitions, lectures and and children. A giant creepy crawly
friends events, usually including display sits alongside an interactive
music, food and wine, to which gallery devoted to music and world
anyone is welcome. d College Road cultures. There is also a small aquar-
SE21 • Train to North or West Dulwich ium. The café looks over the 16-acre
• Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm garden. d London Road SE23 • Train to
Sat–Sun • Admission charge Forest Hill • Open 10:30am–5:30pm daily
Left Richmond alley Right Chiswick House
148
A Day Exploring
Maritime Greenwich
Morning
Start the day from West-

minster Pier, because the
best way to arrive at
Greenwich (see p147) is
by boat. The journey takes
50–60 minutes and there
are terrific river sights on
the way (see pp70–71).
Ham House The old tea clipper Cutty
Sark (see p71) is under-
going restoration during
* Syon House and Park
This sumptuous Neo-Classical
2011 but the visitor centre
is worth a visit. Step into
villa is home to the Duke of North- the nearby Greenwich
umberland. It has fine Robert tourist information centre
Adam interiors and a 40-acre to get your bearings.
garden landscaped by Capability Behind is Greenwich
Brown and dominated by a Market, which is liveliest
splendid conservatory. There is on weekends. Grab a
also a garden and aquatic centre. coffee here, and then
d Brentford, Middlesex • Train to Kew explore the surrounding
streets, full of antique and
Bridge • Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Wed, other charming shops. Turn
Thu & Sun (gardens open 10:30am– into Wren’s Old Royal
5:30pm daily) • Admission charge Naval College, walk around
the Grand Square, and
then down to the river.
( Ham House and Garden
This outstanding 17th-century
Take a break for some
lunch and a pint at the old
house and garden was at the Trafalgar Tavern on the far
centre of court intrigue during side of the Naval College
Charles II’s reign. Its interiors are overlooking the river.
rich and well furnished and there
Afternoon
is a fine picture collection. The
After lunch, make your way
menu in the Orangery is inspired
back up to the National
by 17th-century dishes. d Richmond, Maritime Museum (see
Surrey • Train to Richmond • House open p48), Queen’s House and
mid-Mar–Oct: noon–4pm Sun–Wed the Royal Observatory
(garden 11am–5pm) • Admission charge Greenwich (see p147),
which is on the hill behind.
Spend a couple of hours
) Wimbledon
Museum
Lawn Tennis exploring the fascinating
museum, the largest of its
With a view of the famous Centre kind in the world, then
Court, the museum tells the make your way to the
Observatory. This is the
story of tennis, from its gentle,
home of world time, and
amateur beginnings to its exciting stands on the Prime
professional status today. The first Meridian. You can be photo-
tennis championship were held graphed with one foot in
in Wimbledon in 1877. the eastern hemisphere
and one in the west. Return
d Windmill Road, Wimbledon SW19
to Central London by boat,
• Tube Southfields • Open 10am–5pm DLR or rail from Greenwich.
149
Left Battersea Park Right Brixton Market
Best of the Rest

! Brixton Market
This colourful market lies at ^ WWT London
Wetland Centre
the heart of London’s Caribbean In this bird sanctuary by the
community. The atmosphere is Thames, there are different hab-
lively, with music stalls pumping itats to explore, plus children’s play
out a variety of sounds, and the zones (see p75). d Barnes SW13
scent of aromatic ethnic foods. • Train to Barnes • Open 9:30am–6pm daily
Look for secondhand vinyl, fresh (winter: 9:30am–5pm) • Admission charge
produce and bargain fabrics. Open
8am–5pm Mon–Sat. d Electric Avenue
to Brixton Station Road SW9 • Tube Brixton & Wimbledon Common
Start with a visit to the
windmill, and then try not to
@ Battersea Arts Centre (BAC)

One of the main fringe
get lost roaming the 1,100 acres.
The Crooked Billet and the Hand
theatre venues in the capital, in Hand on the south side are
with a huge programme of pubs to head for. d Wimbledon
activities. d Lavender Hill SW11 • Train Common SW19 • Train to Wimbledon
to Clapham Junction • 020 7223 2223
£ Battersea Park * Stamford Bridge Stadium

Visit the home of Chelsea
Entertainments in this large Football Club with a behind-the-
park include a boating lake, a scenes tour of this famous club.
children’s zoo, sports facilities, d Fulham Road SW6 • Tube Fulham
and a gallery. There is also a Broadway • 0871 984 1955 • Tours hourly
woodland walk, nature reserve from 11am–3pm daily • Admission charge
and therapy garden. d Battersea
Park SW11 • Train to Battersea Park
• Open dawn to dusk daily ( Firepower
An exciting museum at
the historic home of the Royal
$ The Bush
This off-West End theatre is
Artillery. Hundreds of exhibits as
well as a spectacular multi-media
one of London’s premier show- display. d Royal Arsenal, Woolwich SE18
cases for new writers. d Shepherd’s • Train to Woolwich Arsenal • Open
Bush Green W12 • Tube Shepherd’s Bush 10:30am–5pm Wed–Sun • Admission charge
• 020 8743 5050
% Merton Abbey Mills ) World Rugby Museum

At Twickenham Stadium, the
An arts and crafts village on national home of rugby. A Mecca
the River Wandle, with a working for rugby fans, a visit includes a
Victorian watermill, a children’s tour of the stadium. d Rugby Road,
theatre and weekend craft market. Twickenham, Middlesex • Train to Twicken-
Arts festival in summer. d Merantum ham • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Way SW19 • Tube Colliers Wood 11am–5pm Sun • Admission charge

Price Categories

The River Café
Eating and Drinking

! The River Café
The “best Italian restaurant ^ Carpenter’s Arms
It may look like an old
outside Italy” is the long-standing boozer but the food here is
reputation of this imaginative hearty fare made with well-
Hammersmith restaurant, housed sourced, seasonal ingredients.
in a converted warehouse with d 91 Black Lion Lane W6 • Tube Stam-
a river terrace. d Thames Wharf, ford Brook • 020 8741 8386 • ££££
Rainville Road W6 • Tube Hammersmith
• 020 7386 4200 • £££££
& Inn at Kew Gardens
A lovely hostelry with great
@ Thai Square Putney Bridge

A brilliant view of the river
pump ales and moreish gastro
food. It’s also perfectly located
from this smart, innovative glass beside Kew Gardens. d 292 Sandy-
restaurant makes it a good spot combe Road, Kew TW9 • Tube Kew
year-round, and the Thai menu Gardens • 020 8940 2220 • £££
is excellent. d The Embankment
SW15 • Tube Putney Bridge • 020
8780 1811 • £££££ * The Green Room
A thoroughly modern venue
in an old-fashioned part of town.
£ Stylish yet relaxed, Chez

Chez Bruce Great cocktails at the stylish bar,
simple but good Anglo-French
Bruce serves excellent modern food in the restaurant. d 45A
European food. Service is impec- Goldhawk Road W12 • Tube Goldhawk
cable and booking is essential. Road • 020 8746 2111 • £££
d 2 Bellevue Road SW17 • Train to Wands-
worth Common • 020 8672 0114 • £££££
( Esarn Kheaw
Authentic Thai food, with all
$ The Glasshouse
The food is exciting, modern
the usual favourites as well as
more unusual dishes such as
European at this relaxed restau- mud fish sweet and sour soup.
rant. d 14 Station Parade, Kew, Surrey Expect liberal use of chilli and
• Tube Kew Gardens • 020 8940 6777 spices. d 314 Uxbridge Road W12 • Tube
• No disabled access • ££££ Shepherd’s Bush • 020 8743 8930 • ££
% The Gate
Probably the best vegetarian ) Marco
Marco Pierre White’s
restaurant in London, The Gate is acclaimed restaurant at Chelsea
worth hunting out. The gourmet Football Club offers a Modern
menu changes regularly, and the take on classic English cuisine.
meals are hearty and inventive. The glamorous interior adds to
Closed Sundays. d 51 Queen Caroline the culinary experience. d Stam-
Street W6 • Tube Hammersmith • 020 ford Bridge, Fulham Road SW6 • Tube
8748 6932 • No disabled access • £££ Fulham Broadway • 020 7915 2929 • ££££

Around Town – Heading East
Left Columbia Road Market Right Bengali sweet factory
Heading East
T HE EAST END IS booming. Always a vibrant, working-class area and home

to London’s dockworkers, the area has also prided itself on providing a
refuge for successive generations of immigrants, from French silk weavers to
Jews and Bangladeshi garment workers. Since the 1980s, the East End,
where the murderous Jack the Ripper roamed, has under-
gone a radical transformation. Today, the media and
finance worlds occupy stylish Dockland developments,
galleries and restaurants have sprouted in Hoxton
and a host of Sunday markets, including trendy
Spitalfields, draw newcomers who marvel at the
area’s unspoilt 18th- and 19th-century architecture.
Sights
1 Canary Wharf 6 Spitalfields
2 Museum of London 7 The Thames Barrier

Docklands
8 Brick Lane
3 Hoxton 9 Columbia Road
Market
4 Whitechapel Gallery
5 V&A Museum of 0 Geffrye Museum

Childhood Fifty-storey-high Canada
Tower at Canary Wharf
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152
area for kids; Sailortown, an
atmospheric re-creation of 19th
century riverside Wapping; and
London, Sugar & Slavery, which
reveals the city’s involvement in

the slave trade. d West India Quay
E14 • Tube & DLR Canary Wharf, DLR
West India Quay, Thames Clippers Canary
Wharf Pier • Open 10am–6pm daily
£ Hoxton
If you want to see the latest
in British contemporary art, then
this is the place to come. Hoxton
Vaulted glass roof, Canary Wharf DLR station Square is home to the White Cube
gallery, where many of the now
! Canary Wharf
The centrepiece of the Dock-
established contemporary artists,
known as the YBAs (Young British
lands development is Canary Artists), such as Damien Hirst,
Wharf and the 240-m (800-ft) -high, Sarah Lucas and Tracey Emin, first
50-storey Canada Tower designed made their names. Acrobats and
by the US architect, Cesar Pelli. aerial performers put on shows at
The tower is not open to the Circus Space on the north side of
public but parts of the complex Hoxton Market. Cafés and eateries
are, including the mall, with include the Hoxton Square Kitchen
shops, restaurants and bars. and Bar and the Real Greek (see
The star of the area’s exciting p157). d Tube Old Street
architecture is the stunning Canary
Wharf station, designed by Norman
Foster. d Tube & DLR Canary Wharf $ Whitechapel Gallery
This excellent gallery has a
reputation for showing cutting-
@ Museum of London
Docklands
edge contemporary art from
around the world. The gallery has
Set in a historic warehouse, this launched the careers of David
museum explores the history of Hockney, Gilbert and George and
London’s river, port and people. Anthony Caro. Behind the Arts
A wealth of objects is on display, and Crafts façade there is a
from whale bones to WWII gas bookshop, café and restaurant.
masks, in state-of-the-art galleries. d Whitechapel High Street E1 • Map H3
Don’t miss Mudlarks, an interactive • Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (Thu 9pm)
Left Museum of London Docklands Right Whitechapel Gallery’s 1901 entrance
153
% V&A Museum of
Childhood
The Huguenots in London
Driven from France in 1685, the
Everyone will find something to Huguenots were Protestants
delight them here: from dolls and fleeing religious persecution by
teddy bears to train sets and Catholics. They were mostly silk
games through the ages. There weavers, whose masters and

merchants built the beautiful
are special events and activities
Georgian houses around Fournier,
for kids of all ages, during Princelet and Elder streets.
weekends and holidays, as well Spitalfields silk was famous for its
as those themed to complement fine quality, but by the mid-19th
current exhibitions. d Cambridge century the industry had declined.
Heath Road E2 • Tube Bethnal Green
• Open 10am–5:45pm daily • Free
^ Spitalfields & Thames Flood Barrier

Rising like shark fins from the
Streets such as Fournier river, this piece of engineering is
Street, lined with 18th-century an impressive sight (see p71).
Huguenot silk weavers’ d Visitors’ Centre • Unity Way SE18
houses, are a reminder that • Train to Charlton, tube North Green-
this area, just east of the wich • Open Apr–Sep: 10:30am–
City, has provided a refuge 4:30pm daily, Oct–Mar: 11am–
for immigrant populations 3:30pm daily • Admission charge
for centuries. London’s
oldest market, Old Spital-
fields Market still has stalls *
Brick Lane
Once the centre of
selling food, with cafés and London’s Jewish population,
shops around its edge. On this street is now the heart
Sundays the market draws of London’s Bangladeshi
hundreds, eager to find a community. Head here for
bargain among the fashion, inexpensive, authentic Indian
vintage clothing, and crafts food at restaurants such as
stalls here. There are also Preem and Shampan. Some
free events such as lunch- Christ Church of the best bagels in the
time concerts. Opposite the Spitalfields city are from the 24-hr Brick
market is one of Europe’s Lane Beigel Bake at No. 159
great Baroque churches. Christ – a famous dawn haunt for late-
Church (1716) was designed by night revellers. There are vintage
Wren’s pupil, architect Nicholas clothing/designer shops and, on
Hawksmoor (1661–1736). Sundays, a lively flea market.
d Commercial Street E1 • Map H2 d Brick Lane • Tube Aldgate East
Left Georgian terrace, Fournier Street Right Dining room, Geffrye Museum
154
A Day Around the
East End
Morning
Start at Old Spitalfields

Market, close to Liverpool
Street station, where a
mixture of stalls hold sway
during the week, and many
more, selling clothes, food
and collectibles, fill the
floor on Sundays. Have a
delicious English breakfast
at St John Bread & Wine
opposite the market at 96
Commercial Street (see
p157).
Walk around the corner into

Columbia Road Market Fournier Street, where the
gallery at No. 5 retains the
panelling of the 18th-century
( Columbia Road Market
Londoners head east on
silk weavers’ houses. Stroll
along Princelet and Elder
Sunday mornings for the bustling streets, just off Fournier, for
street markets. In addition to a taste of historic London.
Petticoat Lane in Middlesex Head into Brick Lane to
Street, with its bargain clothes browse among the saree
and household items, and Brick and Bangladeshi gift shops.
Lane’s bric-à-brac, there is the Stop for lunch at one of the
teeming plant and flower market many authentic curry
houses that line the street.
in Columbia Road. Ten minutes’
walk from the north end of Brick Afternoon
Lane, Columbia Road is a delight- After lunch turn right into
ful cornucopia of all things horti- Whitechapel Road. Notice
cultural at bargain prices. the distinctive Arts and Crafts
d Columbia Road E2 • Tube Old Street façade of the Whitechapel
• Petticoat Lane • Tube Aldgate East Gallery (see p153) and pop
into the gallery’s stunning
two-floor exhibition space
) Geffrye Museum
Devoted to the evolution of
dedicated to contemporary
and modern art. Have a cup
family life and interior design, this of tea in the café and stop
fascinating museum has a series by the bookshop.
of rooms decorated in distinct Finally, take a ride on the
period style from 1600 to the driverless Docklands Light
present day. Originally a 1715 Railway (from Tower
almshouse, the building has been Gateway, a short walk
transformed and you can wander from Whitechapel), for
some of the best views
through an oak-panelled 17th- of East London. Emerge
century drawing room, a 1930s at Canary Wharf to see
flat or a contemporary loft apart- London’s latest architecture
ment. There are also period around Cabot Square, and
gardens from April to October. finish the afternoon with a
drink at Via Fosse (see
d Kingsland Road E2 • Map H2 • Open p157) on West India Quay.
10am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun

Left Folly, Victoria Park Right Sailing, Docklands Watersports Centre
Best of the Rest

! Theatre Royal
Stratford East % Three Mills Museum
Built in 1776, this magnificent
A local theatre with an inter- tidal mill complex was once the
national reputation – established country’s largest. Today it is a
by the pioneering director Joan working museum with much of
Littlewood in 1953 – where its original machinery on display.
exciting new work can still be d Three Mill Lane E3 • Tube Bromley-by-
seen. Next door is an arts Bow • 020 8980 4626
centre with a gallery and cinema.
d Gerry Raffles Square E15 • Train,
tube & DLR Stratford • 020 8534 0310 ^ Cabot Hall
An events venue in Dock-
lands with comedy clubs and
@ Victoria Park
One of East London’s largest
public concerts. d Canary Wharf E14
• DLR Canary Wharf • 020 7418 2782
and most pleasant parks. There
are two lakes, where model boats
are sailed at weekends, ornamen- & Docklands Sailing &
Watersports Centre
tal gardens, a children’s zoo, Enjoy sailing, rowing and canoe-
tennis courts and a bowling ing facilities here. d Millwall Dock,
green. d Bow E9 • Tube Bethnal Green Westferry Road E14 • DLR Crossharbour
• 020 7537 2626 • www.dswc.org
£ Dennis Severs’ House

This 18th-century silk-weaver’s
* Mudchute Farm
home (see p154) is kept perfectly Britain’s largest city farm
in period and was created by the has a collection of livestock,
late Dennis Severs. Each room in plus a riding school. d Pier Street
this “still-life drama” appears as E14 • Open 9am–5pm daily • DLR
if the inhabitants have only just Mudchute • 020 7515 5901
left it – dinner is half-eaten and
cooking smells emanate from
the kitchen. d 18 Folgate Street E1 * ExCeL
An award-winning devel-
• Map H2 • Open 6–9pm Mon, noon–4pm opment beside the Royal Victoria
Sun, Mon lunchtimes (noon–2pm) following Docks with shops, cafés and a
1st & 3rd Sunday of month • 020 7247 vast exhibition space. d Victoria
4013 • Admission charge Dock Road E16 • DLR Custom House.
$ Sutton House
This Tudor merchant’s house ) Mile End Park
For skateboarders, BMX
dates from 1535 and is one of the riders and rollerbladers. This
oldest in the East End. d 2–4 Homer- park also has a go-kart track, an
ton High Street E9 • Tube Bethnal Green, Ecology Park and Children’s Play
then 253 bus • 020 8986 2264 • Open Park. d Mile End Road E3 • Tube Mile
Thu–Sun and Bank Holiday Mondays End • 020 7264 4660 (Environment Trust)
156
Price Categories

City bar and restaurant, Cantaloupe
Eating and Drinking

is devoted to music, drink and
! Great restaurant serving

The Real Greek food until 1am. There is live music
every night in the back-room club
Greek food like you’ve never and in the garden in summer.
tasted before. Start with mezedes d Kingsland Viaduct, 83 Rivington Street
(starters). The wine list has excel- EC2 • Map H2 • 020 7739 3440 • ££
lent Greek wines. d 15 Hoxton Market
N1 • Map H2 • 020 7739 8212 • ££££
^ Fox
Fine dining can be had up-
@ Les Trois Garçons

Elaborate decor is all part of
stairs in this lovely refurbished
pub, which is frequented by City
the dining experience at Les Trois types looking for decent ales and
Garçons. Happily, the food is wines. d 28 Paul Street EC2 • Map H2
consistently excellent and the • 020 7729 5708 • ££££
service solicitous. Overall, this is
not as pricey as you would think.
d 1 Club Row E1 • Map H2 • 020 7613 & Cantaloupe
A large warehouse bar serv-
1924 • £££££ ing chips and snacks at the bar
and Mediterranean food in the
£ StThisJohn Bread & Wine

sister restaurant of
restaurant. d 35–42 Charlotte Road
EC2 • Map H1 • 020 7729 5566 • ££
St John (p139) is a much-loved
local haunt, with its long opening
hours (from 9am Mon–Fri, 10am * Gun
This swish Docklands opera-
Sat & Sun) and excellent British tion overlooking the Thames
food. It has a great wine list, serves up quality pub food. d 27
and the bakery sells amazing Cold Harbour E14 • DLR South Quay/
bread and cakes to go. Conven- Blackwell • 020 7515 5222 • ££££
ient for Old Spitalfields Market.
d 94–96 Commercial Street E1 • Map H2
• 020 7247 8924 • ££££ ( Café Spice Namaste
One of the best fine Indian
restaurants in London, focusing
$ Located in the complex next

Canteen on Goan and regional cooking.
Closed Sundays. d 16 Prescot
to Old Spitalfields Market, it Street E1 • Tube Tower Hill & Aldgate
serves traditional British food • 020 7488 9242 • ££££
from 9am to 11pm. d Unit 2, Crispin
Place, off Brushfield Street E1 • Map H2
• 0845 686 1122 • £££ ) Prospect of Whitby
East London’s finest pub
dates to 1520, and has old beams
% Imaginatively set in three

Cargo and barrels, a pewter bar and
great river views. d 37 Wapping Wall
railway arches, this large space E1 • Tube Wapping • 020 7481 1095 • ££

STREETSMART
Planning Your Trip
160
Arriving in London
LONDON’S TOP 10
161
Getting Around
162
Sources of Information
163
London for the
Disabled
164
Banking &
Communications
165
Security & Health
166
Excursions from
London
167
Trips & Tours
168
Avoiding the Crowds
169
Shopping Tips
170
London on a Budget
171
Hotels
172–179
Streetsmart
Umbrellas on a wet London day
Planning Your Trip

! What to Pack
Be prepared for all
regular medicine, bring
adequate supplies and/or
buy an adaptor before
leaving home. Most hotels
weathers, and be sure to a prescription with you. have two-pin sockets in
bring a waterproof jacket For more information their bathrooms for use
and umbrella, even in visit www.ukba.home with shavers only.
summer. In winter, you will office.gov.uk
need a warm coat and
( Children’s Needs
sweater. Formal dress
is rarely obligatory, but % Insurance
Take out an insurance
Planning ahead when
travelling with young
people do dress up for policy that covers loss of children can make a trip
the opera as well as for baggage, theft and health. more enjoyable. Avoid
some theatrical shows Although emergency travelling by public tran-
and smart restaurants. treatment is usually free sport during peak hours
If you are coming in sum- from the National Health (see p169). Book tickets
mer bring sunscreen as Service, and there are in advance, and bring a
London sun can be strong. reciprocal arrangements fold-up stroller.
with other EU countries,
@ Currency
For security, bring a
specialist care, drugs and
repatriation are costly. ) Membership
Cards
cash card or traveller’s Bring any membership
cheques. Check that your
cash withdrawal card is ^ Driving Licence
If you are planning to
cards for driving or heri-
tage organizations with
acceptable in the UK – drive in the UK and you links to the UK, such as
most are. Bring some are an EU citizen, be the Automobile Association
British currency to pay sure to bring your licence or National Trust, that offer
for fares and immediate as well as registration discounts at many attrac-
needs on arrival (see and insurance documents. tions. A student ISIC card
Banking p165). Also inform your insur- (see p171) is also useful.
ance company of the trip.
£ Passports
Visas
and Other foreign nationals
require an international
Embassies
A valid passport is needed drivers licence. Australian High
to enter the UK. Visitors Commission
Australia House,
from the EU, Common-
wealth countries and the & Time Difference
Don’t forget to set Strand WC2 • Map M3
US do not need a visa. your watch to Greenwich • 020 7379 4334
Always check with the Mean Time for the UK, • www.australia.org.uk
British Embassy in your which is one hour behind Canadian High
country. Contact your Continental European Time Commission
London-based embassy and five hours ahead of 1 Grosvenor Square W1
if you need to extend your US Eastern Seaboard • Map D3 • 020
stay beyond six months. Time. From March to Sep- 7258 6600 • www.
tember clocks go forward unitedkingdom.gc.ca
$ Customs
Regulations
an hour (“summer time”).
United States
Embassy
Firearms, offensive
weapons, endangered * Electrical
Appliances 24 Grosvenor Square
species and some types of Throughout the UK, the W1 • Map D3 • 020
food and plants cannot be electricity supply is 240 7499 9000 • www.
brought into the UK for volts AC. Plugs are of a usembassy.org.uk
personal use. If you need three-square-pin type, so
160 Preceding pages Piccadilly Arcade

Streetsmart
Left Eurostar train Right Aeroplane, Heathrow Airport
Arriving in London
! Heathrow Airport Luton Airport
London’s main airport $ This airport is 31 * St Pancras
International
is 15 miles (24 km) west miles (50 km) north of Home to over 50 shops,
of central London. The London. A shuttle bus bars and restaurants –
Heathrow Express train connects the airport to including Europe’s longest
to Paddington is the quick- Luton Parkway station, champagne bar – this is
est way into the centre, from which various trains the place to arrive in
taking 15 to 20 minutes. go to St Pancras taking London via Eurostar.
Trains run from 5am until around 20 minutes. Trains take under 2 hours
about 11pm daily. Taxis Green Line operates a from Brussels or 2 hours
take an hour or more, coach service to central 15 minutes from Paris.
depending on traffic, and London. d Luton d St Pancras International •
are very expensive. Cheap information: 01582 405 100 Map E2 • Eurostar enquiries
options include the tube • www.london-luton.co.uk and reservations: 08432
(Piccadilly line) or National 186 186 • www.eurostar.
Express coach into the
centre. d Heathrow infor- % London
Airport
City com, www.stpancras.com
mation: 0844 335 1801

• www.heathrowairport.com
Situated in Docklands, 9
miles (14 km) from the ( Channel Crossings
Eurotunnel operates
centre, this airport is best a drive-on-drive-off train
@ Gatwick Airport
London’s second air-
served by DLR from Bank
tube station. A taxi to
service between Calais,
in northern France, and
port is 31 miles (50 km) the centre takes about 35 Folkestone, in the south
south of the centre, on minutes. d London City of England (35 minutes).
the Surrey-Sussex border. information: 020 7646 0088 Ferries from Calais to
The Gatwick Express train • www.londoncityairport. Dover, the shortest Chan-
runs every 15 minutes into com nel crossing, take around
Victoria Station, taking 90 minutes. The drive to
around 30 minutes. There
are also train connections ^ Other Airports
England’s other main
London on the M20
motor way takes around 1
to London Bridge and St airports are Birmingham, and a half hours. d www.
Pancras. The National Liverpool, Manchester, eurotunnel.com • Reser-
Express coach is a little Newcastle and East vations: 0844 335 3535
cheaper and takes an Midlands. All have direct
hour longer. d Gatwick
information: 0870 0002 468
road, rail and bus connec-
tions to and from London. ) Other Sea Links
Car ferries sail from
• www.gatwickairport.com northern France to other
& Victoria Coach Channel ports in the south
£ Stansted Airport
The UK’s third busiest
Station
Both national and inter-
of England, as well as
from Bilbao and Santander
airport is 35 miles (56 national buses operate in northern Spain to
km) northeast of London. from here, London’s main Portsmouth or Plymouth.
The Stansted Express coach station. The terminal Hoverspeed operates a
train to Liverpool Street is a 10-minute walk from fast catamaran service
station takes 45 minutes. Victoria railway station. from Dieppe to Newhaven
Coaches to various d Victoria Coach Station, (summer only). Passenger
London locations take 164 Buckingham Palace and car-ferry services
between 1 and 2 hours. Road SW1 • Map D5 also run to other ports
d Stansted information: • Reservations: 0871 781 around the country
0844 335 1803 • www. 8178 • www.national from the Netherlands,
stanstedairport.com express.com Scandinavia and Ireland.
161
Streetsmart
Left Taxis Centre Bus line Right Walking
Getting Around
! The Underground Pre-paid Travel
London’s underground $ Passes
a firm’s office. Never
pick one up on the
train network, or “tube”, One-day and weekend street, or from one of the
is the fastest way to get Travelcards are economi- unofficial offices in Soho,
around town, but trains cal if you make more than as they are likely to be
are crowded during rush- two trips by public trans- uninsured. “Lady Mini-
hour. Lines are colour- port in a day. They can be cabs” have only women
coded and easy to follow bought at tube stations or drivers. d Lady Minicabs:
on the map on the back newsagents, and are valid 020 7272 3300
cover of this book. Trains on the Underground, • www.ladyminicabs.co.uk
run from around 5:30am some overground trains,
to midnight, with fares
based on the six zones
buses and the DLR, on
weekdays after 9:30am. * Car Rental
Car rental is not cheap
into which the network Oyster cards and weekly in the United Kingdom
is divided. Zone 1 and monthly Travelcards and the rates are similar
covers Central London. are also available: for a among the larger com-
d Transport for London: 020 monthly pass you need panies. Europcar and
7222 1234 • www.tfl.gov.uk a passport-sized photo. Thrifty are most likely to
offer deals. Drivers must
@ London Buses
Slower than the tube % Rail Travel
Suburban and intercity
show a valid licence and
be aged 21 or even 24.
but a cheaper way to travel is served through d Europcar: 0845 758 5375
travel, buses are also a the 10 main London • Thrifty: 01494 751500
good way of seeing the termini. Rail travel is
city as you go. To travel
in the city between
expensive and the fare
structures complicated. ( Cycle Rental
You need a strong
midnight and 6am, you Planning ahead for long nerve to cycle in London’s
will need a night bus. journeys is advisable busy traffic, but it can be
Most night buses may be and may save money. a great way to see the
picked up at bus stops d National Rail Enquiries: city. Lock up bikes as
around Trafalgar Square 08457 484950 • www. theft is common. There is
and the West End. nationalrail.co.uk a choice of bicycle rental
companies in London.
£ Docklands Light
Railway (DLR) ^ Taxis
London’s black cabs
d London Bicycle Tour
Company: 020 7928 6838
The automated overland can be hailed anywhere; • On Your Bike: 020 7378 6669
railway serving Docklands their “For Hire” sign is lit
has two branches, one
that heads south to
up when they are free.
You can also find them at ) London on Foot
Walking is a rewarding
Greenwich and Lewisham railway stations, airports option in London. The
and the other to Wool- and taxi ranks. A 10 per centre of the capital is
wich, Arsenal. It is linked cent tip is customary. not large, and you will be
to the Underground Black cabs can be ordered surprised at how short
network at Bank, Tower in advance from Radio the distance usually is
Gateway (near Tower Hill) Taxis and Dial-a-Cab. between two points that
and other points. Outside d Dial-a-Cab: 020 7253 5000 seem quite far apart
rush hour, it is a pleasant • Radio Taxis: 020 7272 0272 when travelled by tube.
way of seeing this Traffic drives on the left
regenerated area of
the East End. d Transport & Minicabs
Only obtain a minicab
in the UK, so take care
when crossing the road,
for London: www.tfl.gov.uk by telephone or by visiting and watch for light signals.
162 For information on guided tours See pp168–9

Streetsmart
Left Britain Visitor Centre sign Right Britain and London Visitor Centre interior
Sources of Information
! London
Board
Tourist
$ Restaurant
Services
Standard’s website www.
thisislondon.co.uk is also
Visit London is the official This organization (in bus- helpful. Visit London
tourist organisation for iness since 1979) will (London’s Tourist Board)
London and has a range find you a restaurant and publishes useful guides
of services for visitors to reserve a table for you if on accommodation and
the capital, including a you book through their activities in the capital.
useful accommodation website, call or e-mail
booking scheme. Their
website gives a number
your requirements to
them. They have a com- * Weather
London’s weather is
of options. d Visit London: prehensive database and unpredictable, but if you
020 7234 5800 • www. will try to meet your want to check ahead
visitlondon.com needs. There is no charge. phone Weathercall for an
d 020 8888 8080 • www. up-to-the minute fore-
@ Tourist
Centres
Information restaurant-services.co.uk cast. There are also regu-
lar weather forecasts for
Offering advice on any-
thing and everything % Television
Apart from satellite
the capital and other re-
gions on radio and
from day trips and guided and digital television, television. d Weathercall:
tours to accommodation, there are five terrestrial 0906 850 0401 • www.
you will find these Visitor channels in the UK: two weathercall.co.uk
Centres at 1 Lower run as public service
Regent Street W1, on
level 2 of Tate Modern
channels by the BBC
(BBC1 and BBC2), and ( Britain and
London Visitor
and in Greenwich, at the three commercial Centre (BLVC)
Pepys House SE10. channels (ITV, Channel 4 Here you will find a vast
They stock free leaflets and Channel 5). Ceefax amount of information on
on current events and and Teletext are text London and the rest of
attractions. The City of programmes on these the country, with advice
London Information channels, giving travel on accommodation,
Centre (opposite St and weather updates. travel, attractions and
Paul’s Cathedral in activities. As well as the
EC4) is also useful.
^ Radio
London radio stations
Visitor Centre in Regent
Street, there is a good
Accommodation bring constant news and website. d 1 Lower Regent
£ Pre-paid hotel reser- travel updates for the Street W1 • 0870 156 6366
vations booked through capital. They include BBC • Map J2 • Open daily
Visit London are guaran- London Live (94.9 FM), • www.visitbritain.com
teed to be the lowest Capital FM (95.8 FM) and
rate you can find. If
paying by credit card, you
LBC (97.3 FM).
) London Lesbian &
Gay Switchboard
can use their hotel book- Publications This telephone helpline
ing service online. You & For current events provides information,
can also book in person in London, see the daily support and a referral
at centres in Victoria and papers, particularly the service for lesbians and
Liverpool Street stations, Evening Standard (the gay men. They can give
and at Heathrow. d Visit capital’s free evening advice on services,
London Accommodation paper), and Time Out, the organisations and
Booking Service: 0871 222 weekly listings magazine, entertainment venues.
3118 • www.visitlondon which includes activities d 020 7837 7324
offers.com for children. The Evening • www.queery.org.uk
163
Streetsmart
Left Low floor bus Right Wheelchair access ramp
London for the Disabled

! Accommodation
Most large, modern $ Theatre
Cinema
and
& Students
SKILL, the National
hotels have disabled Most theatres and Bureau for Students with
access, but older or cinemas in London have Disabilities, offers limited
small hotels may not, so disabled access. Call in help and information, as
do check before booking. advance to find out what does the UK Council for
RADAR (Royal Association seating is allocated for International Student
for Disability and Rehabil- disabled visitors – some Affairs (UKCISA).
itation), the main organi- offer good seats, others d SKILL: 0800 328 5050.
zation for the disabled, not so good. For more www.skill.org.uk • UKCISA:
publishes an annual guide, information on (1800 10 prefix for
Holidays in Britain and accessibility in arts textphone) 020 7288 4330.
Ireland, which lists recom- venues, call Artsline. www.ukcosa.org.uk
mended accommodation. d Artsline: 020 7388 2227
d RADAR: 020 7250 3222
• www.radar.org.uk; www.
• www.artsline.org.uk
* Impaired Hearing
Many theatres have a
tourismforall.org.uk
% Restaurants
Some restaurants
sign-language interpreter
on duty at all or some
Public Transport are more accessible than performances. Call in
@ With long escalators, others: even if they have advance to check. The
stairs, walkways and wheelchair access, the Royal National Institute
heaving rush hours, it is dining areas may be on for the Deaf (RNID)
particularly difficult for the an upper or lower floor, may be able to help
disabled to travel on the so check when booking with some enquiries.
Underground. However, a table. Our Top10 d RNID: 0808 808 0123.
the total bus fleet is listings state if a restau- www.rnid.org.uk
wheelchair accessible. A rant does not have
useful travel access
leaflet called “Get on
disabled access.
( Impaired Sight
The Royal National
Board” is produced by
Transport for London and ^ Guided Tours
Based in Kensington,
Institute for the Blind
(RNIB) can provide
available at Travel Infor- London W8, Can Be information on holiday
mation Centres at Heath- Done specializes in holi- options. Braille maps
row airport, main tube days and tours for the of London’s transport
and rail stations, and some disabled. They will put system are available from
suburban ones. For more together a package to Transport for London’s
information call Transport suit your requirements. Access & Mobility unit.
for London. d Transport The company offers d RNIB: 0303 123 9999 •
for London: 020 7222 1234 accommodation, theatre www.rnib.org.com • Trans-
• www.tfl.gov.uk • www. packages and sightseeing port for London: 020 7222
accessproject-phsp.org trips around London. All 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk
the accommodation
£ Museums
Most of London’s
offered is wheelchair
adapted while transfers ) Other sources
Organisations includ-
museums and galleries and private sightseeing ing Dial UK, Disability
have ramps for wheel- tours can be arranged Now, Disabled Go and
chair access and disabled in wheelchair adapted Enabled London offer a
toilets. Recorded “audio vehicles (see p168). wide range of information
tours” can often be hired, d Can Be Done: 020 8907 and advice for people with
which are useful to those 2400 • www.canbedone. disabilities. Information is
with impaired vision. co.uk available on the Internet.
164 For more information on getting around London See p162

Streetsmart
Left Bank Right Post box
Banking and Communications

! Money
The pound sterling
less widely accepted in
the UK. Credit cards are & Dialling Codes
The code for London
(£) is divided into 100 particularly useful for is 020, which you omit
pence (p). Paper notes hotel and restaurant bills, when dialling within the
are in denominations of shopping, car rental and city. When calling from
£5, £10, £20 and £50. reserving theatre or movie abroad, dial the access
Coins are £1 and £2 tickets by telephone. They code followed by 20,
(yellow-gold); 5p, 10p, can also be used to obtain omitting the initial 0. To
20p, 50p (silver); and cash advances, with a call abroad from London,
1p and 2p (copper). PIN number. dial 00 followed by the
access code of the coun-
@ Banks
Opening hours for % Postal Services
Post offices and sub-
try you are dialling. To
find a number call one of
banks are generally post offices are located the directory services
9:30am–4:30pm Monday throughout London. They listed below. d Directory
to Friday. Most banks are generally open from Enquiries: 118 500
and building societies 9am–5:30pm Monday to • International Directory
have cash machines in an Friday and until 12:30pm Enquiries: 118 505
outside wall. Some also on Saturday. You can also
have lobbies with cash
and payment machines –
buy stamps in shops,
hotels and other outlets. * Faxes and
Photocopies
these can be accessed The main West End post There are fax and
by your cash card at any office is near Trafalgar photocopying shops
time of night or day. Square. Mail sent Poste throughout London, and
Restante to this address most of the larger hotels
£ Bureaux
Change
de will be kept from two to
four weeks. American
also offer these facilities.
Bureaux de Change are

regulated, and their rates
Express also provides a
poste restante service ( Mobile Phones
London is awash
are displayed along with for its customers. d Post with mobile (cellular)
commission charges. office: 24/28 William IV phones. Check before
These are either flat fees Street WC2. Map M3 leaving home whether
or percentage charges. • American Express: 30–31 yours will work within
Many offer exchange Haymarket SW1. Map L4. the UK, which uses a 900
without a commission www. americanexpress. or 1800 GSM system.
fee, but check their rates com • Royal Mail Customer
as these may be less
favourable than those
Services: 0845 774 0740.
www.royal mail.com ) Internet
There are a number
charging a fee. Travelex of Internet bars and cafés
has many branches
throughout London ^ Telephones
Most phone boxes
throughout London with
charges varying from free
where money can take coins (40p minimum) (if you’re buying drinks at
be changed. and credit cards. You the bar) to £5 an hour.
will need at least £2 to The worldwide chain Easy
$ Credit Cards
Most establishments
make an international
call. If you have difficulty
Internet Café has several
branches in central
accept the major credit contacting a number, London, including one at
cards such as Visa and call the Operator (100) the Trafalgar Square end
MasterCard (Access). or International Operator of the Strand. d Easy
American Express and (155). In an emergency, Internet Café: 456–59
Diners Club cards are dial 999 or 112. Strand WC2 • Map M4
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 165

Streetsmart
Left Bow Street police station, Covent Garden Centre Mounted police Right Boots pharmacy
Security and Health

! Emergency
For emergency $ Lost Property Embassies and
Anything found on the * Consulates
police, fire or ambulance tube, buses, trains or These are around Mayfair,
services dial 999 – the black cabs is sent to the Belgravia, Kensington and
operator will ask which Transport for London Lost the West End if you lose
service you require. This Property Office. Allow your passport, need a visa
number is free on any three to five days for items or legal advice (see p160).
public telephone. to get there. d Transport
for London Lost Property:
( Women Travellers
@ Personal
Protection
200 Baker Street NW1.
Map C3. Open 8:30am–
If travelling alone,
take sensible precautions.
London, like most metro- 4pm Mon–Fri • 0845 330 Use busy, well-lit streets
politan areas, has its 9882 • www.tfl.gov.uk at night, don’t travel in
share of bagsnatchers empty carriages on trains
and pickpockets. You
should be aware of this % Hospitals
There are a number
and use licensed black
cabs displaying an identi-
late at night and in of hospitals in central fication disc (see p162).
outlying or poorly London with 24-hour
populated areas. Look
after your possessions,
emergency services,
including dental hospitals. ) Sexual Health
St Mary’s Hospital,
keeping valuable items Emergency accident Paddington, and St
concealed. In pubs and treatment may be free Thomas’, Westminster
other public places, keep for visitors (see p160). have clinics for sexually
hold of your bag – it is transmitted diseases.
not unknown for bags to
vanish from between ^ Pharmacies
Pharmacies (known
d NHS Sexual Health Line:
0800 567 123
their owners’ feet in as chemists in England)
movie theatres and bars. are open during business
London Hospitals
Avoid poorly lit back hours, some until late,
streets, at night and if and can give advice on St Mary’s
you are on your own. minor ailments. Boots is Praed Street W2 • Map
a large, respected chain B3 • 020 3312 6666
£ Theft
Make sure that your
with branches throughout
London. d Boots, Piccadilly
St Thomas’
Westminster Bridge
possessions are insured Circus W1. 020 7734 6126.
Road SE1 • Map N6
before you arrive and, if Map K3. Open 8am–mid-
• 020 7188 7188
possible, leave passports, night Mon–Fri, 9am–mid-
tickets and travellers’ night Sat, noon–6pm Sun University College
cheques in the hotel safe. • Bliss Pharmacy, 107–109 A&E (24 hrs), Euston
Report all thefts to the Gloucester Road SW7, 020 Road NW1 • Map E2
police, especially if you 7373 4445. Map B5. 9am– • 0845 155 5000
need to make an insur- midnight daily
ance claim. There is a Guy’s Hospital
Dental Department
police presence in such
busy areas as Leicester & Dentists
Hotels can usually St Thomas’ Street SE1
Square and Oxford Street, suggest local dentists, and • Map G4 • 020 7188
as well as several central many are listed in Yellow 8006
police stations. Pages. For emergency NHS Direct
d West End Central Police: dental work, go to Guy’s 24-hour advice line
27 Savile Row W1 • Map J3 Hospital Dental Depart- • 0845 4647
• 0300 123 1212. ment, near London Bridge.
166
Streetsmart
Left Punting, River Cam, Cambridge Right Palace Pier, Brighton beach
Excursions from London

! Windsor Castle
This ancient bastion
resort by the Prince
Regent in the late 18th
cheaper. d Chessington,
Surrey • Train: 30 mins
of British royalty is well and early 19th centuries • 0870 999 0045 • Open
worth a day out. Its state when he moved to the Mar–Dec: opening times
apartments and the 15th- extravagant Royal Pavilion. vary • Admission charge
century St George’s Chapel Shop for antiques in The • www.chessington.com
are glorious. As a working Lanes, have fish and chips
Royal residence, opening
hours can change. Check
on the pier and visit the
beach. d Train: 1 hr • Tourist * Thorpe Park
The highest water ride
website before visiting. Information: 0300 300 0088 in Europe is just one of
d Windsor, Berks • Train: • www.visitbrighton.com the attractions at this
40 mins • 020 7766 7304 theme park, which is
• Open Mar–Oct: 9:45am–
5:15pm; Nov–Feb: 9:45am– % Stratford-
upon-Avon
popular with families.
d Chertsey, Surrey • Train
4:15pm • Admission charge William Shakespeare’s to Staines: 30 mins • 0871
• www.royalcollection.org.uk birthplace (1564) is firmly 663 1673 • Open Mar–
on the tourist map. There Oct: opening times vary
@ Oxford
Britain’s oldest univer-
are several buildings here
associated with the great
• Admission charge • www.
thorpepark.com
sity town is a fascinating playwright, as well as the
place to visit, with ancient
colleges, museums and
Royal Shakespeare
Theatre if you want to ( Woburn Abbey
Home to the Dukes
galleries at every turn. For catch a performance. of Bedford, this outstand-
a short introduction to the d Train: 2 hrs • Tourist Inform- ing 18th-century stately
city, start at The Oxford ation: 0870 160 7930 • www. home with large grounds
Story on Broad Street. The shakespeare-country.co.uk has a fine collection of
most magnificent colleges paintings and furniture.
are Christ Church,
Magdalen and Merton. ^ Canterbury
In AD 597, this pleas-
There is a full events
programme each year and
d Train: 1 hr • Tourist ant market town south- a Safari Park 10 minutes
Information: 01865 726 871 east of London became away. d Woburn, Bedford-
• www.visitoxford.org the seat of the primate, shire • Train to Flitwick: 1 hr,
the Archbishop of Canter- then taxi • 01525 290 333
£ Cambridge
Don’t miss King’s,
bury. The magnificent
cathedral includes the
• See website for opening
times • Admission charge
Trinity, Queens’ colleges, tomb of St Thomas Becket. • www.woburn.co.uk/abbey
and Peterhouse, the d Train: 1½ hrs • Tourist
oldest college (1284) in
Cambridge. Relax on a
Information: 01227 378 100
• www.canterbury.co.uk ) Leeds Castle
England’s most
punt on the river Cam, romantic castle is built
which runs along the
backs of the colleges. & Chessington World
of Adventures
on two islands in a lake
surrounded by 500
d Train: 45 mins • Tourist A vast amusement park acres of Kent parkland.
Information: 0871 226 8006 that was originally a zoo d Maidstone, Kent • Train
• www.visitcambridge.org (it still has jungle animals to Bearsted 1 hr, then coach
in its Animal Land section) transfer (all-inclusive ticket)
$ Brighton
“London-on-Sea”
will keep children happy
all day. The rides include
• 01622 765 400 • Open
Apr–Sep: 10am–4:30pm
is the nickname of this a terrifying upside-down daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–3pm
cosmopolitan city, estab- rollercoaster. Tickets daily • Admission charge
lished as a fashionable bought in advance are • www.leeds-castle.com
167
Streetsmart
Left Walking tour Right London sightseeing bus
Trips and Tours

! Sightseeing
Bus Tours $ Themed Walks
Jack the Ripper
their doors to the public,
revealing some hidden
Open-top sightseeing Haunts, Ghosts of the architectural gems.
buses provide one of the Old City, Shakespeare’s The event is run by the
best ways of getting to London, Hidden London – organisation Open-City –
know London. There are there are dozens of such check out their website.
several operators and a walks on offer from both d http://open-city.org.uk
number of tours with individuals and companies. • Free
pick-up points around the The longest established
city, so you can get on
and off all day, wherever
operator, The Original
London Walks, offers a * Air Tours
Several companies
you want. Some com- wide choice of two-hour offer sightseeing tours by
panies include a cruise walks. d 020 7624 3978 helicopter. Cabair offers a
along the River Thames. • www.walks.com half-hour tour of London
d Original Tour: 020 8877 that follows the route of
1722 • Big Bus Tours: 020
7233 9533 % City Jogging Tours
For a healthy and
the Thames. The flight
leaves from Elstree Aero-
eco-friendly sightseeing drome in north London.
River Trips tour, join a guided jogging d Cabair: Borehamwood,
@ There is a choice of tour around London. Hertfordshire • Train to
boat services on the The daily tours are led by Elstree and Borehamwood,
Thames but they are run experienced runners and then taxi • 020 8953 4411
by different operators cater both to individuals • www.cabairhelicopters.com
and tickets are not inter- and groups of all running
changeable. It is best to
buy tickets at the piers
abilities. The guides
promise a fascinating ( Thames Barges
The magnificent
so that you can find out journey through the Thames barges that used
exactly what is on offer. streets of the city. to fill the Pool of London
Westminster and d 0845 544 0433 • www. can now be seen in St
Embankment are the cityjoggingtours.co.uk Katharine Docks (see
principal central London p71). Topsail Events hires
piers. Boats from here
go up river to Hampton ^ Backstage
Most of London’s
out barges for the day or
an overnight stay. Tower
Court and downriver to historic theatres offer Bridge is opened to let
Tower Bridge and Green- daytime backstage tours. them through. d Topsail
wich. d Embankment Pier: The National Theatre’s Events: 020 7022 2201
Map M4 • Westminster Pier: tour of all three theatres • www.topsailevents.co.uk
Map M6 (the Olivier, the Cottesloe
and the Lyttelton), as well
) Out of Town
£ Regent’s Canal
This is a lovely back-
as of dressing rooms and
workshops, lasts about 75
Several operators run
bus trips to well-known
water for idle cruising, minutes. Call to reserve sights within an hour or
between Camden Lock (see p56). d National two’s drive of London or
and Little Venice. Catch Theatre: 020 7452 3400 further afield, including
the boat at either end, Paris. Golden Tours is one
and stop off at London
Zoo (see p68). d London & Open House
On one weekend at
of London’s leading sight-
seeing companies and
Waterbus Co: 58 Camden the end of September, offers a wide range of
Lock Place NW1 • Map B2 around 700 buildings in scheduled tours daily.
• 020 7482 2550 • www. London, from city blocks d Golden tours: 020 7233 70
londonwaterbus.com to private homes, open 30 • www.goldentours.com
168 For more on trips out of London See p167

Streetsmart
Liverpool Street Station, the City
Avoiding the Crowds

! Rush Hour School Holidays
Try to avoid travelling % During school holi-
Royal Academy (see
p113) and elsewhere
in the Monday to Friday days, London’s museums often stay open until late
morning (8–9:30am) and and other sights in the one night a week. The
evening (5–6:30pm) rush capital are filled with V&A (see p119) is open
hours when tube trains families and groups of until 10pm on the last
and buses are filled to children. In general, Friday of each month;
bursting point and cabs school holidays last six Tate Modern (see pp18–
are scarce. If you can, it weeks in summer from 19) is open until 10pm on
is often more pleasant the end of July to the Fridays and Saturdays.
and quicker to walk. beginning of September,
with additional two–three
( Weekends
@ Lunch Hour
Londoners generally
week breaks at Easter
and Christmas. Sights
London is emptier
on weekends, without
have lunch between 1 are also crowded during the commuters who
and 2pm, when pubs, half-terms: the last stream in to work here
cafés and fast-food restau- week in February, from Monday to Friday.
rants fill up and sandwich May and October. The City, in particular, is
bars have long lines of deserted on weekends.
people. On the other
hand, this can be a good ^ Matinees
Some of the most
This is a good time to
wander around and see
time to go to smarter popular shows and events its sights, when it is
restaurants which try to in London theatres are relatively free from
attract lunchtime crowds heavily booked far in crowds and traffic.
by offering cheap menus. advance. However, they
Lunch in the City tends
to be earlier: noon–1pm.
often have seats available
for their midweek and ) Public Holidays
The capital is quieter
Saturday matinees. during the holidays as
£ Dining Out many Londoners leave
Although restaurants
in the West End and the & Booking Ahead
Popular exhibitions
town over holiday week-
ends. Apart from New
South Bank are generally operate a system of Year and Christmas, the
packed with theatre- pre-booked, timed main bank (public) holi-
goers taking advantage entry tickets in order to days in the UK are at
of the inexpensive pre- prevent overcrowding. Easter, May Day, Whitsun
and post-theatre dinner Try and reserve well in (end of May) and at the
menus, many of these advance to secure an end of August. Be aware
become less crowded early morning or late that some sights may
around 8pm once the admission to avoid the be closed and that
curtain has gone up. biggest crowds. museums and galleries
tend to have shorter
$ Early Start
Most sights in the * Late Evenings
Shops and galleries
opening hours at these
times. They are unlikely
capital – especially the in the capital often have to be closed completely,
major sights, such as late-opening evenings except for Christmas and
the Tower of London when they are less Boxing Day (26 Dec). It
and Madame Tussauds – crowded than during the is becoming increasingly
are least crowded early day. The shops in Oxford common for shops and
in the day. You will have Street, for example, open supermarkets to remain
to fight the rush hour to late on Thursday evenings. open for some, if not all
get there, however. Major exhibitions at the of the holidays.
Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 169

Streetsmart
Left Westfield Shopping Centre Centre Harrods Right Covent Garden Central Market
Shopping Tips
! Shopping Areas
There are many great
damaged (this isn’t always
the case with sale items).
End stores (Selfridges,
John Lewis, Liberty,
places to shop in London, Always keep receipts so Harvey Nichols, Harrods
with some areas special- you can return any see pp64–5) have gift
izing in particular things. unsatisfactory items. departments with bright
Covent Garden has the ideas. Elsewhere around
most up-to-the-minute
clothes, shoes, jewellery % Sales
Large stores and
the city, there are shops
selling designer jewellery,
and gifts; Oxford Street is many fashion outlets pottery, ceramics and
best for large department usually have end-of- household goods, many
stores, music, and season sales in January of which are designed
cheaper fashion; Bond and July when there in the UK. The main
Street and Knightsbridge are enormous savings museums, galleries and
are where you will find on many items, from tourist sites all have
all the most expensive furniture to fashions. interesting gift stores.
designer labels and goods;
Mayfair and St James’s
have the best art and ^ Fashion
Big-label fashion ( Art and Antiques
The major commercial
antiques dealers. houses are in Bond Street, galleries are in the West
Knightsbridge and Sloane End, around Bond Street
@ Shopping Hours
Shops generally open
Street. Bespoke wear for
men is in Savile Row and
and Cork Street (see p116).
Bonhams and Sotheby’s
9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, St James’s. Oxford Street (see p114) auction houses
with late-night shopping is good for mid-range are here, too. You can
until 8pm in the West End clothes. For street fashion, find inexpensive art and
on Thursdays, and in try the markets: Camden craft throughout London.
Kensington and Chelsea (see p141), Portobello (see All kinds of antiques can
on Wednesdays. Sunday p120), Petticoat Lane and be sought out in Porto-
has limited trading hours. Spitalfields (see p154). bello Road, Kensington
Church Street and King’s
£ Payment
Most shops accept & Music
London is one of the
Road (Chelsea).
major credit cards and

personal cheques endor-
world’s music capitals,
and its big music stores, ) Out of Town
If you want to do a
sed with guarantee cards. such as HMV Oxford lot of shopping under
VAT (Value Added Tax) is Street, have huge selec- one roof and avoid the
charged at 17.5% and tions of CDs and DVDs, city centre, there are
almost always included in including imports. Many several huge out-of-town
the marked price. Stores specialist, second-hand shopping malls. Brent
offering tax-free shopping and collectors’ shops deal Cross in north London,
display a distinctive sign in vinyl, which remains calls itself “London’s
and (for non-EU residents) popular. The main opera North West End”.
will provide you with a and concert houses also Bluewater is another
Global Refund form for have music outlets. For option in Greenhithe,
customs to validate when sound systems, visit Kent, and Westfield,
you leave the country. Tottenham Court Road. Europe’s largest shopping
complex, is near
$ Consumer Rights
Shoppers have a * Gifts and
Souvenirs
Shepherd’s Bush. Shops
are open until around 8pm,
right to expect that Covent Garden is great restaurants and enter-
goods are not faulty or for gifts. The big West tainments stay open later.
170 For London’s best shops See pp64–5

Streetsmart
Left Covent Garden Piazza Right St John’s, Smith Square
London on a Budget
! Accommodation
There are several
more than twice. An
International Student
standing tickets from
£4–£14. The Prince Charles
youth hostels in London, Card (ISIC) offers reduced- cinema in Leicester Place
and universities offer price entry to many is the cheapest one in
rooms from June to museums. Look out for central London.
September. International free lunchtime lectures.
Students House has
* Fashion
year-round rooms. There
are also many cheap % Street
Entertainment
Pick up barely worn,
designer clothes at a
bed and breakfasts Covent Garden is the dress agency (try The
(see p179). best place for day-long Loft, 35 Monmouth St
entertainment, and there’s WC2; L’Homme Designer
@ Travel
Buses are cheaper
always someone to look
at or listen to in Leicester
Exchange, 50 Blandford
St W1).
than the tube (Under- Square. At weekends
ground), but they do
usually take longer. If you
artists hang their work
up on the railings in ( Markets
London’s markets
are making more than Piccadilly outside Green have bargain antiques,
two tube journeys in a Park, and by Hyde Park fashions, jewellery and
day, Travel Cards are on Bayswater Road. cheap food (see pp64–5).
good value. They are also
valid on buses and the
Docklands Light Railway. ^ Free Music
London is awash ) Parks
London’s parks offer
Pre-Pay Oyster cards with free music. Free endless free entertain-
also save you money lunchtime concerts are ment, whether watching
(see p162). held in churches and at sports in Regent’s Park
the music colleges (in or listening to bands at
£ Eating
It’s quite possible to
term time). Performances
also take place at the
St James’s Park band-
stand (see pp28–9).
eat a two-course meal Southbank Centre and
with a drink and coffee for at the National Theatre, Directory
under £20 in many places the National Gallery, and
in London. Chinese and in malls such as Hays London Hostel Assoc
Indian restaurants are Galleria and Canary Wharf. 54 Eccleston Square
often inexpensive, and SW1 • 020 7727 5665
many churches have
cheap lunchtime cafés. & Cheap Tickets
The best place for
Youth Hostels Assoc
Trevelyan Hse, Dimple
Expensive restaurants these is the half-price Rd, Matlock, Derbyshire
can become affordable ticket booth called DE4 3YH • 01629 592
with set-lunch or pre- “Tkts”, located on the 700 • www.yha.org.uk
theatre menus. southside of Leicester
Square, which sells International
Museums and tickets for performances Students House
$ Galleries on that day only. “Fringe” 229 Gt Portland Street
Some museums are theatres outside the W1 • 020 7631 8300
free. Others have free West End (often in London Bed &
late afternoon or evening pubs) are considerably Breakfast Agency
entry. Special deals can cheaper. On Mondays, 71 Fellows Road NW3
mean that buying a all seats are £10 at the • 020 7586 2768
season ticket makes Royal Court. The Royal • www.londonbb.com
sense if you want to visit Opera House has
171
Streetsmart
Left Elizabeth Hotel Right Bar, Brompton Hotel
Inexpensive Hotels
! Travel Inn London
County Hall
It is close to Victoria
station and all rooms are
ground-floor is an
American-style bar (not
London’s best budget comfortably furnished, owned by the hotel) run
hotel has a memorable four with private by New Yorker Janet
location in County Hall bathrooms. d 120 Ebury Evans, which serves
near the river and the Street SW1 • Map D5 great cocktails. d 30–2
London Eye. Facilities are • 020 7730 2384 • www. Old Brompton Road SW7
more than adequate, morganhouse.co.uk • ££ • Map C5 • 020 7584 4517
with fold-out beds for • www.bromhotel.com • ££
children in each of the
% Lancaster
Court Hotel
313 rooms. Book well in
advance. d Belvedere Between Paddington * Morgan Hotel
This cheerful family-
Road SE1 • Map N6 station and Hyde Park, run hotel is long estab-
• 0870 242 8000 • www. Sussex Gardens is a lished. Several rooms
premierinn.com • £££ quiet, pleasant street overlook the British
lined with inexpensive Museum and all have air-
@ Columbia Hotel
The Columbia has a
hotels. Lancaster Court
is just a few minutes
conditioning. The cosy
breakfast area has framed
delightful leafy setting walk from Hyde Park. London memorabilia on
overlooking Kensington d 202–4 Sussex Gardens the walls. d 24 Bloomsbury
Gardens. Originally five W2 • Map B3 • 020 7402 Street WC1 • Map L1
mansions, and once used 8438 • www.lancaster- • 020 7636 3735 • www.
as a US military officers’ court-hotel.co.uk • ££ morganhotel.com • £££
club, it has magnificent
rooms and is much more
opulent than its prices ^ Craven
Gardens Hotel ( Elizabeth Hotel
This handsome town
suggest. d 95–9 Lancaster Located in a quiet, house overlooks a quiet,
Gate W2 • Map B3 • 020 upmarket part of town, private square, which is
7402 0021 • www.columbia this privately run hotel available for guests’ use.
hotel.co.uk • ££ has 43 bedrooms and It is close to Victoria
two executive suites, station, and has single,
£ Fielding Hotel
Ideally situated for
with 24-hour service,
coffee- and tea-making
double, triples and family
rooms. d 37 Eccleston
Covent Garden, this facilities in the rooms Square SW1 • Map D5
quaint room-only hotel is and a bar. It has no • 020 7828 6812 • www.
a warren of oddly shaped restaurant but there is a elizabethhotel.com • ££
rooms, with showers and good Greek taverna just
basins tucked in corners.
Outside there is all of
a few yards away. d 16
Leinster Terrace W2 • Map ) Arran
Hotel
House
Covent Garden to break- B3 • 020 7262 3167 • www. This friendly family-run
fast in. d 4 Broad Court, smartbackpackers.com • ££ hotel is conveniently
Bow St WC2 • Map M2 located a short walking
• 020 7836 8305 • £££ •
www.the-fielding-hotel.co.uk & Brompton Hotel
Situated just by
distance from the British
Museum, Oxford Street
South Kensington tube and the West End. 24-
$ Morgan
Guest House
station and handy for the
museums, this typical
hour Internet facilities and
a walled summer rose
This stylish budget B&B west London hotel has garden. d 77–79 Gower
in a Georgian terrace in comfortable rooms with Street WC1 • Map E2 • 020
fashionable Belgravia has bathrooms. Reception is 7636 2186 • www.london-
light, modern decor. on the first floor. On the hotel.co.uk • £££
172 Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com

Price Categories
For a standard, £ under £70
double room per ££ £70–100
night (with breakfast £££ £100–150
if included), taxes ££££ £150–200
Streetsmart
Royal Garden Hotel
Mid-price Hotels
! Bedford Hotel
One of six large, % Cranley
Gardens Hotel
North Marylebone is run
by two former fashion
good-value Bloomsbury Occuping four large models who have styled
hotels run by Imperial Victorian mansions, this the seven rooms taste-
London Hotels, the is one of the best of the fully and individually. A
Bedford’s advantage is many South Kensington roof terrace and a house-
a good restaurant and a town-house hotels. Over- keeper are just two of
sunny lounge and garden. looking a quiet square the attractions on offer
d 83 Southampton Row (some rooms have bal- here. d 9 Ashbridge Street
WC1 • Map M1 • 020 7636 conies), this is a relaxed NW8 • Map B2 • 020 7725
7822 • www.imperialhotels. and friendly place to stay. 9694 • www.weardowney.
co.uk • £££ d 8 Cranley Gardens SW7 com • ££
• Map B6 • 020 7373 3232
@ Zetter
Modern and fun, this
• www.cranleygardenhotel.
com • ££ ( Royal
Hotel
Garden
laid-back option offers This refurbished hotel

luxuries such as the latest
in-room entertainment, ^ Grange Langham
Court Hotel
squeezes into the mid-
price category for its
walk-in rain showers and Located in a quiet side excellent weekend rate.
free espresso machines. street near Oxford Circus, It is a pleasantly airy
Its Bistro Bruno Loubet this enticing hotel, with modern hotel next to
restaurant is a must. d its attractive façade, is Kensington Gardens and
86–88 Clerkenwell Road EC1 as friendly inside as its Kensington Palace and
• Map F2 • 020 7324 4444 exterior promises. Rooms close to the shops of
• www.thezetter.com • £££ are comfortably furnished Kensington High Street.
and there is a good Facilities include a health
£ The Royal
Trafalgar
restaurant serving mainly
French food. d 31–5
centre, spa and gym,
24-hour business centre
The Thistle Group has 10 Langham Street W1 • Map and two restaurants. d 2
hotels in London, many J1 • 020 7436 6622 • www. Kensington High Street W8
in prime sites. This one is grangehotels.com • ££££ • Map B4 • 020 7937 8000
next door to the National • www.royalgardenhotel.
Gallery, so staying here
will save on transport & Malmaison
Located in a lovely
co.uk • ££££
costs. d Whitcomb Street

WC2 • Map L4 • 0871
part of Smithfields, this
chain hotel is both ) Melia
House
White
376 9037 • www. charming and reasonably Close to Regent’s Park,

thistle.com • ££££ priced. As well as this classic hotel was
comfortable rooms, it has built as a block of model
$ Hoxton Hotel
Set in trendy
a gym, a beautifully chic
brasserie and a stylish
apartments in 1936. Now
refurbished as a
Shoreditch, the Hoxton subterranean bar. comfortable 581-room
offers rooms at low d Charterhouse Square hotel, it has spacious
prices, (which increase EC1 • Map G2 • 020 7012 rooms, a restaurant and
on higher demand). Four 3700 • www. malmaison- bar. Prices can vary by
times a year they do an london.com • ££££ 100 per cent, the most
incredible £1 per room expensive times being
deal. d 81 Great Eastern
Street EC2 • Map H2 * Weardowney
This lovely artisan
mid-summer and Christ-
mas. d Albany Street NW1
• 0207 550 1000 • www. guesthouse located in • Map D2 • 020 7391 3000
hoxtonhotel.com • ££££ the quiet back streets of • www.solmelia.com • ££££
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit 173

cards and have private bathrooms
Streetsmart
Left Halkin Centre One Aldwych Right St Martins Lane
Designer Hotels
! Sanderson
London’s most stylish
and attentive staff. The
rooms are light and feng- * The Hempel
When you walk into
hotel is cool, minimalist shui assured, with white this dazzling white, Zen-
and thrillingly expensive. orchids, fishtanks and inspired hotel, you’ll think
Behind a 1950s office- candles for decoration. you’ve reached Nirvana.
block exterior, plain walls d 11–13 Bayley Street Immaculate and stylish,
are punctuated by Dali- WC1 • Map L1 • 020 3004 it has a central atrium
lips and Louis XV sofas, 6000 • www.myhotels. from which five floors
while wafting curtains com • ££££ radiate. Each room is
and oil paintings decorate individually designed in a
the ceilings of the sparse
bedrooms. Facilities in- % Charlotte
Hotel
Street minimal Japanese style.
The restaurant serves
clude a gym and spa. Try One of the most tasteful European cuisine. d 31–5
the special break deals. and comfortable hotels in Craven Hill Gardens W2
d 50 Berners Street W1 London, where leather • Map B3 • 020 7298 9000
• Map K1 • 020 7300 1400 armchairs and antiques • www.the-hempel.co.uk
• www.sandersonlondon. mix with contemporary • £££££
com • £££££ works of art, and log fires
burn in the drawing room
( Metropolitan
@ One Aldwych
In a former 1907
and library. The bustling
Oscar bar and brasserie
Contemporary and
stylish, this was one of
newspaper building, this attract Charlotte Street the first of the classy
is a relaxing designer hotel diners. d 15 Charlotte modern hotels in London,
with art-filled lobby and Street W1 • Map K1 • 020 with black-clad staff,
corridors, two good restau- 7806 2000 • www.charlotte cool interiors and chic
rants and an 18-m (56-ft) streethotel.com • £££££ bedrooms. Go celebrity-
pool with underwater spotting in the Met Bar or
music. d Aldwych WC2
• Map N2 • 020 7300 1000 ^ Mercure London
City Bankside
in Nobu, its fashionable
Japanese restaurant (see
• www.onealdwych.com Just a stone’s throw from p117). d Old Park Lane W1
• £££££ Tate Modern, this seven- • Map D4 • 020 7447 1000
storey hotel has pay TV • www.metropolitan.london.
£ St Martins Lane
The Sanderson’s
and a four-star restaurant.
d 75 Southwark Street SE1
como.bz • £££££
sister hotel was designed

by Phillipe Starck. Rooms
• Map R4 • 020 7902 0800
• www.mercure.com • £££ ) Halkin
A startlingly beautiful
have floor-to-ceiling hotel in a Georgian town
windows and even the
bathrooms (all with big & No. 5 Maddox
Street
house, which has been
given a thoroughly
tubs) are 50 per cent Glass, steel and bamboo modern overhaul with
glass. d 45 St Martin’s feature in these high- marble, glass and dark
Lane WC2 • Map L3 quality Japanese-style woods and oriental
• 020 7300 5500 • www. serviced apartments, with details. The Michelin-
stmartinslane.com • £££££ a restaurant delivery starred restaurant
service, Green and Black’s overlooks the garden and
$ myhotel
Bloomsbury
chocolate in the fridge
and full Internet facilities.
the rooms are equipped
for communications and
Just off Tottenham Court d 5 Maddox Street W1 sound. d Halkin Street
Road, this hotel is an • Map J3 • 020 7647 0200 SW1 • Map D4 • 020 7333
oasis of calm, with a • www.no5maddoxstreet. 1000 • www.halkin.como.bz
mystical, Oriental style co.uk • £££££ • £££££
174 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left Marriott Right Tower Hotel
Business Hotels
! Andaz
Street
Liverpool needs and there is a
good northern Italian & Sheraton
Tower
Park
Built in 1884 as the restaurant. d 46 Westferry This circular hotel is a

railway hotel serving Circus E14 • DLR Westferry Knightsbridge landmark –
Liverpool Street station, • 020 7510 1999 • www.four views get better and more
Andaz is the only hotel seasons.com • ££££ expensive the higher you
in the City of London. go. Business guests are
Andaz, meaning “personal
style” in Hindi, is luxurious $ London
Hotel
Bridge well catered for.
d 101 Knightsbridge SW1
yet friendly with a great Just over the river from • Map C4 • 020 7235 8050
range of eating and the City, this handsome, • www.luxurycollection.com/
drinking options. It fuses modern, independently parktowerlondon • £££££
a five-star hotel with a owned hotel is equipped
boutique, design-driven
atmosphere, and has five
for business guests. The
restaurant serves a mix- * The Tower Hotel
Many of the 800-plus
fabulous eateries. ture of Malaysian, Indian rooms in this vast modern
d Liverpool Street EC2 and Chinese cuisines. block near Tower Bridge
• Map H3 • 020 7961 1234 d 8–18 London Bridge and St Katharine’s Dock
• www.london.liverpool. Street SE1 • Map H4 • 020 have spectacular river
street.andaz.com • £££££ 7855 2200 • www.london views. d St Katharine’s
bridgehotel.com • ££££ Way E1 • Map H4 • 0871
@ The Bloomsbury
Hotel
376 9036 • www.guoman.
This beautiful Neo- % Marble Arch

Marriott
com • £££££
Georgian building was

designed by Edwin
A modern hotel near the
western end of Oxford ( Express by
Holiday Inn
Lutyens for the YWCA in Street. Facilities include One of a chain of ten,
1929. The Queen Mary a bar and restaurant, value-for-money London
Hall is now a conference gym, health club and hotels, the London City
centre and the former swimming pool. There hotel is not actually in
chapel provides a quiet are full business facilities the City, but backs onto
meeting room. The rooms in the executive lounge. newly fashionable Hoxton
have been designed for a d 134 George Street W1 Square (see p153), an
mainly business clientele, • Map D3 • 020 7723 1277 area known more for
with modems, voice-mail • www.londonmarriott art than for business.
and work desks. d 16–22 marblearch.co.uk • £££££ d 275 Old Street EC1
Great Russell Street WC1 • Map H2 • 020 7300 4300
• Map L1 • 020 7347 1000
• www.doylecollections. ^ Paddington
Hotel
Court • www.holidayinn.co.uk
• £££
com • £££££ Located in a quiet area
Four Seasons
of west London north of
Kensington Gardens, this ) City Hotel
Just off Whitechapel
£ Hotel Best Western hotel has High Street, at the bottom
As smart and stylish as 200 comfortable, spacious of Brick Lane (see p154),
you would expect from rooms, an inexpensive this hotel is ideal for busin-
a new Canary Wharf restaurant for residents ess travellers who wish
hotel, the Four Seasons and a pleasant lounge bar. to be close to the City.
has a central atrium and d 27 Devonshire Terrace d 12 Osborn Street E1
good sense of space. W2 • Map B3 • 020 7745 • Tube Aldgate East • 020
Rooms are all well 1200 • www.paddington 7247 3313 • www.cityhotel
equipped for business court.com • £££ london.co.uk • ££££
175
Streetsmart
Left The Academy Right Durrants Hotel
Character Hotels
! Hazlitt’s
As much a literary
four-poster beds. Break-
fasts are generous and * Portobello Hotel
Full of character, full
event as a hotel, Hazlitt’s there’s a free bar. of junk, with each room
is located in the former d 111a Westbourne Grove individually and tastefully
townhouse of essayist W2 • Map A3 • 020 7243 cluttered, this is the kind
William Hazlitt (1778– 1024 • www.millershotel. of hotel you would hope
1830). The hotel’s literary com • ££££ to find near London’s
feel is enhanced by its great antiques market.
library of books signed
by the many authors that % The Academy
This charming Blooms-
Food in the restaurant is
prepared by the nearby
have stayed here. d 6 bury hideaway occupies Julie’s wine bar. d 22
Frith Street W1 • Map L2 five Georgian houses. The Stanley Gardens W11
• 020 7434 1771 • www. rooms are individually • Map A4 • 020 7727 2777
hazlittshotel.com • £££££ designed and there is a • www.portobello-hotel.
library, a conservatory co.uk • £££££
@ Durrants Hotel and pleasant gardens.
This Georgian hotel,
close to Marylebone
d 21 Gower Street WC1
• Map E2 • 020 7631 4115 ( The Rookery
A warren of rooms
High Street and Oxford • www.theetoncollection. has been linked together
Street, has been in com/academy • £££–££££ to create a brilliant hotel
business since 1790. It that evokes Victorian
has a comfortable, old-
fashioned style, with oak- ^ Blakes Hotel
A Victorian delight,
London, with a Gothic
touch. It takes its name
panelled rooms, paintings with sumptuous cushions from the gang of thieves
on the walls and comfy and drapes, bamboo and who once haunted this
leather seats. d George bird cages, each room is area near Smithfield
Street W1 • Map D3 • 020 individually styled with market. d 12 Peter’s
7935 8131 • www.durrants exotica from all over the Lane, Cowcross Street EC1
hotel.co.uk • £££££ world. The Chinese Room • Map Q1 • 020 7336 0931
bar and restaurant in the • www.rookeryhotel.com
£ Guesthouse West
The modish, minimal-
basement continues the
theme with low seating
• £££££
ist rooms in this chic

three-storey hotel in
and cushions. d 33 Roland
Gardens SW7 • Map B6 ) Dorset
Hotel
Square
Notting Hill are equipped • 020 7370 6701 • www. Located in an elegant
with flat-screen TVs and blakeshotels.com • £££££ square near Regent’s
Molton Brown products. Park, this stylish, modern
The restaurant is out-
standing, with a range of & The Gore
Originally opened in
small hotel is decorated
in English country style.
starters, mains, sand- 1892, this hotel retains a It has a contemporary
wiches and salads, as relaxed, fin-de-siècle feel. Italian restaurant, Osteria
well as luscious desserts. Persian rugs, potted palms dell’Orologio, which has
d 163–165 Westbourne and paintings are in keep- live jazz on Fridays. Rooms
Grove W11 • Map A3 • 020 ing with the elegance of are decorated with
7792 9800 • www.guest the building, and rooms antiques (two have four-
housewest.com • ££££ are furnished with posters) and there is a
antiques. The restaurant is pleasant garden. d 39
$ Miller’s Residence
Miller’s is crammed
also recommended. d 190
Queen’s Gate SW7 • Map
Dorset Square NW1
• Map C2 • 020 7723 7874
full of fabulous chan- B5 • 020 7584 6601 • www. • www. dorsetsquare.co.uk
deliers, antiques and gorehotel.com • ££££ • ££££

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Palm Court, Ritz
Luxury Hotels
! The Lanesborough
In London’s most
chandeliers and Louis XVI
furniture. Afternoon tea in
a view over Hyde Park.
d 53 Park Lane, W1
luxurious hotel, the the Palm Court is popular • Map D4 • 020 7629 8888
Regency decoration and the restaurant has a • £££££ • www.thedorches
reaches a peak in Aspleys, garden terrace. ter.com
a Heinz Beck restaurant, d 150 Piccadilly W1 • Map
while all the rooms, with
deep pile carpets and
K3 • 020 7493 8181 • www.
theritzlondon.com • £££££ * Brown’s Hotel
This Mayfair hotel
gleaming mahogany, are was founded in 1837 by
fitted with the latest
entertainment and com- % Covent
Hotel
Garden James Brown, valet to
Lord Byron, to accom-
munications technology. London’s most innovative modate country society
There is also a spa and hotel group is distin- staying in London.
fitness centre. d 1 Hyde guished here by modern Comprising eleven
Park Corner SW1 • Map D4 style and traditional Georgian town houses,
• 020 7259 5599 • www. elegance. Rooms are it has been refurbished
lanesborough. com • £££££ individually designed with great style, while
with luxurious marble retaining its intimacy and
@ Kensington Hotel
Set in London’s
bathrooms. A basement
screening room is a nod
charm. It is also renowned
for its restaurant and
Regency quarter, this to its showbiz guests. English teas. d Albemarle
luxurious townhouse hotel d 10 Monmouth Street Street W1 • Map J4
has 150 stylish rooms WC2 • Map L2 • 020 7806 • 020 7493 6020 • www.
and suites. There is also 1000 • www.firmdalehotels. roccofortecollection.com
a vibrant cocktail bar, com • £££££ • £££££
modern restaurant and
full-service gym. d 109–
113 Queen’s Gate SW7 ^ The Waldorf
Hilton ( The Colonnade
Located in the
• Map B5 • 020 7589 6300 This is one of London’s exclusive residential area
• www.doylecollection.com/ great Edwardian hotels. of Little Venice, this four-
kensington • £££££ A major refurbishment star luxury townhouse
has resulted in a 21st- hotel has 43 individually
£ Savoy
Fortunate in its river-
century interpretation of
this classic hotel. Leisure
designed rooms, most
with four-poster beds
side setting, the Savoy is facilities are excellent. and some with private
London’s top traditional d Aldwych WC2 • Map N3 terraces. d 2 Warrington
hotel and has undergone • 020 7836 2400 • £££££ Crescent W9 • Map B2
extensive refurbishment. • www.hilton.co.uk/waldorf • 020 7286 1052 • www.
Leisure facilities include theetoncollection.com/
a small rooftop pool.
d 1 Savoy Hill, Strand WC2 & The Dorchester
Part of the fabric of
colonnade • £££–£££££
• Map M4 • 020 7836 4343

• www.fairmont.com/savoy
London, The Dorchester
opened in 1931 and has ) The Goring
Decorated throughout
• £££££ been the pinnacle of in delightful Edwardiana,
glamorous London life this gracious, family-run,
$ Ritz
One of London’s
ever since. Alain Ducasse
at The Dorchester offers
country-house-style hotel
combines comfort with
most glamorous hotels, contemporary French fine delightful nostalgia. d
the Ritz is decorated in dining and has three Beeston Place SW1 • Map
cream and pink, with Michelin stars. Book a D5 • 020 7396 9000 • www.
gold and silk trimmings, “superior executive” for thegoring.com • £££££
Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com 177

Streetsmart
Left Hampstead Village Guesthouse Right Richmond Hill Hotel pool
Hotels Out of Town

! Hampstead
Guesthouse
Village
$ Riverside Hotel Ibis London
Based in an attractive & Docklands
This large double-fronted Victorian building, this This inexpensive French
Victorian family house, hotel has a great position chain’s Docklands hotel is
located just off the near the River Thames near the river on the east
bottom of Hampstead and is not far from side of Canary Wharf,
High Street – and still full Richmond Park or the just off the main streets.
of the family memorabilia shops of Richmond. Rooms are perfectly
and toys – is now run as Some of the rooms adequate, and a buffet
a guesthouse. There is overlook the river and breakfast is served.
a pleasant garden in one has French windows d 1 Baffin Way E14 • DLR
which guests can eat on to the hotel garden. Blackwall • 020 7517 1100
breakfast. d 2 Kemplay d 23 Petersham Road, • www.ibishotel.com • ££
Road NW3 • Tube Richmond, Surrey • Train
Hampstead • 020 7435
8679 • www.hampstead
& tube Richmond • 020
8940 1339 • www.riverside * Renaissance
London Heathrow
guesthouse.com • ££ richmond.co.uk • ££ With a 24-hour fitness
centre and 649 well-
Premier Inn Mitre appointed, soundproofed
@ Hampstead % Originally an 18th- rooms, this hotel allows
Located between Camden century coffee house, you to recharge while
and Hampstead, this this bustling pub-with- enjoying views of Heath-
modern 140-bedroom rooms (16 en suite) is row’s runways. d Bath
hotel has all the regular close to Greenwich’s Road, Hounslow • Tube Houn-
facilities of a chain hotel, sights and transport slow West • 020 8897 6363
including a bar and links. The traditional pub • www.marriott.co.uk • £££
brasserie. It offers very is popular with locals and
good rates at weekends.
d 215 Haverstock Hill
market shoppers, and
serves a good selection ( Sofitel
Gatwick
London
NW3 • Tube Belsize Park of pub food, including Walk directly from
• 0870 242 8000 • www. Sunday lunch. There Gatwick’s North Terminal
premierinn.com • £££ is a conservatory and to this elegant hotel,
garden. Parking available. which has a full range of
£ Richmond
Hotel
Hill d 291 Greenwich High Road
SE10 • Train to Greenwich
facilities. It is linked to
London by the Gatwick
Dating from 1726, this • 020 8293 0037 • www. Express train service.
Georgian mansion at mitregreenwich.com • ££ d Gatwick Airport • 01293
the top of Richmond 567070 • www.sofitel.com
Hill, close to Richmond
Park, has a modern wing. ^ Novotel London
Greenwich
• ££
A few select rooms,

which are not necessarily
Located right next to
the station as well as ) Hilton London
Stansted Airport
more expensive, have being in the heart of A modern hotel with
river views. Guests have Greenwich, this stylish standard facilities, this is
use of such facilities as four-star hotel, part of just a five-minute journey
a pool, sauna and a a chain, has 151 rooms. to the terminal at Stan-
beauty salon. d 173–175 Greenwich sted Airport via shuttle
d Richmond Hill, Surrey High Road SE10 • Train bus. Ideal for early flights.
• Train & tube Richmond to Greenwich • 020 8312 d Stansted Airport • 01279
• 020 8940 2247 • www. 6800 • www.novotel.com 680 800 • www.hilton.co.
foliohotels.com • £££ • £££ uk/stansted • ££

Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left St Paul’s Youth Hostel Right London City YMCA
Budget Accommodation
! Generator
London
Hostel
% St Christopher’s,
The Village
d Trevelyan House, Dimple
Road, Matlock, Derbyshire
Somewhere between sci- This is the largest of DE4 3YH • Central booking:
fi and industrial chic, this three hostels on this 01629 592 700 • www.yha.
youth-orientated hostel street run by St Christ- org.uk • £
provides budget solutions opher’s Inns. Other
for impecunious travellers.
24-hour Internet facilities,
branches are in Camden,
Greenwich, Shepherd’s * YMCA
There is some nightly
breakfast and walking tour Bush and Hammersmith. accommodation at the
available. d Compton Double rooms or cheaper London City YMCA (8
Place, 37 Tavistock Pl WC1 dormitories are available. Erroll Street EC1) and
• Map E2 • 020 7388 7666 There is a café and bar, Barbican YMCA (Fann
• www.generatorhostels. roof terrace and female- Street EC2). Otherwise
com/london • £ only floor. d 165 Borough try the German YMCA
High Street SE1 • Map G4 (35 Craven Terrace W2)
@ Arosfa
Set in a Georgian
• 020 8600 7500 • www.st-
christophers.co.uk • £
or the Indian YMCA (41
Fitzroy Square W1).
town house, Arosfa has d City 020 7614 5000;
a pleasant garden and en
suite rooms. d 83 Gower ^ Dover
Hostel
Castle Barbican 020 7628 0697;
German 020 7723 9276;
Street WC1 • Map E2 • 020 A privately run hostel Indian 020 7387 0411
7636 2115 • www.arosfa offering value-for-money • www.ymca.org.uk • £
london.com • ££ accommodation for
backpackers, with 60
( Host and Guest
£ Elysée Hotel
In a quiet street
beds in dormitory-style
rooms ranging from 3 to
Service
This agency specializes
opposite one of west 12 persons. Showers, in inexpensive B&B
London’s most attractive breakfast and lock-up accommodation in
corners, Leinster Mews, included in the price. homes in London and
this small hotel is one of Late licensed bar with elsewhere in the UK. A
the cheapest in the area. DJs and bands at two-night minimum stay
Basic but comfortable, weekends. d 6a Great is preferred. d 103 Dawes
there are various size Dover Street SE1 • Map G4 Road SW6 • Map A6 • 020
rooms available, including • 020 7403 7773 • www. 7385 9922 • www.host-
a family room for up to dovercastlehostel.com • £ guest.co.uk • £
five people. d 25–26
Craven Terrace W2 • Map
B3 • 020 7402 7633 • www. & Youth Hostels
Association ) International
Students House
elyseehotel.co.uk • ££ There are seven youth In university holidays,
hostels in London: some student rooms are
$ The Court Hotel
This is a favourite
London Central, Oxford
Street, St Paul’s (Fitz-
available at reasonable
rates. This house, though,
with Australian and South rovia), Holland Park, St has space all year. Dormi-
African backpackers. Basic Pancras, Earl’s Court and tories, single and twin
accommodation is offered Thameside (all en suite). rooms are available at a
in single or shared rooms, Not all do breakfast and range of prices. There is a
and reduced weekly rates most have shared facili- bar, a gym, a restaurant
are available. Internet ties. There are various and a common room.
facilities. d 194–196 Earl’s rooms, including family d 229 Great Portland Street
Court Road SW5 • Map A5 rooms, and cheaper rates W1 • Map J2 • 020 7631
• 020 7373 0027 • £ for under 18s. 8300 • www.ish.org.uk • £
179
General Index
333 Club 59 art galleries (cont.) BBC Broadcasting House
Kenwood House 51, 142 131
A ` 12–13, 50, 91 BBC Promenade Concerts
Abeno Too 105 National Portrait Gallery 66
Index
accommodation see hotels 6, 14–15, 50, 91 Beach Blanket Babylon 124

Ackroyd, Peter 73 Proud Gallery 101 The Beatles 132
Adam, Robert 114, 149 Royal Academy 51, 113, Beatroot 94
Admiral Duncan 94 115 Becket, St Thomas 167
The Admiralty 105 Serpentine Gallery 122 Beckett, Samuel 57
Afghan Kitchen 145 Somerset House 99 Bedford, Dukes of 108, 167
Agent Provocateur 92 Tate Britain 6, 20–21, Bedford Hotel 173
airports 161 50, 81 Belfast, HMS 70–71
Aitchison, George 121 Tate Modern 6, 18–19, Bell, Vanessa 72
Albert, Prince Consort 55, 50, 81, 83 Belvedere 125
118, 119, 120 Wallace Collection 50, 129 Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop
Albert Memorial 55, 119 Wellcome Collection 108 98, 100, 101, 103
Aldrin, Buzz 24 Whitechapel Gallery Bentley, John Francis 47
Alexandra Palace 17, 144 153, 155 Berkeley Square 114–15
Alfie’s Antiques Market 132 Artisan du Chocolat 123 Berwick Street Market
Algerian Coffee Stores 92 Asprey 116 90–91
All Hallows by the Tower 138 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Betjeman, John 72
All Souls 47 76, 105 BFI London Film Festival
Alloro 117 Augusta, Princess 147 67
Almeida Theatre 144 Australian High BFI London IMAX 84
Amaya 125 Commission 160 Big Ben 34
ambulances 166 The Avenue 117 Blackheath 75
Americans in Mayfair 114 Blackwell, Ursula 142
Amis, Kingsley 73 B Blake, William, Elohim
Amis, Martin 73 Babbage, Charles 25 Creating Adam 21
Amphitheatre Bar at Royal backstage tours 168 Blakes Hotel 176
Opera House 104 Bacon, Francis, Three Blitz 45
Anchor and Hope 86, 87 Studies for Figures at the Blood Brothers 61
The Anchor at Bankside Base of a Crucifixion 21 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
83, 86 Balans Café 93 106–11
Andaz Liverpool Street 175 Baltic 87 map 106
Angelico, Fra 50 Bam-Bou 111 restaurants 111
Angerstein, John Julius 12 Bank of England Museum shopping 110
Ann Summers 92 136–7 The Bloomsbury Hotel 175
Anne, Princess Royal 27 Bank Holidays 169 blue plaques 53
Anne, Queen 53, 55 banking 165 Blue Print Café 77
Antiquarius 123 Banks, Joseph 22 Boadicea, Queen 80
antiques shops 170 Bankside Gallery 85 Boleyn, Anne 37, 38
Apsley House 114 Banqueting House 54 Bond Street 114
Arbutus 95 Bar 101 93 Bonnard, Pierre,
Armstrong, Neil 24 Bar Italia 94 Coffee 19
Arosfa 179 Barbican Centre 56, 135, Borderline 59
Arran House Hotel 172 137 Borough Market 85
art galleries 50–51, 170 barges, Thames 168 Boswell, James 52
Buckingham Palace Barrafina 77, 95 Botticelli, Sandro,
26, 51 Barry, Sir Charles 34 Mystic Nativity 13
Courtauld Gallery 50, Barry, EM 99 Boublil, Alain 60
99, 101 Bassey, Shirley 129 Brancusi, Constantin,
Dalí Universe 84 Battersea Arts Centre 150 Fish 19
Dulwich Picture Gallery Battersea Park 69, 74, 150 Brawne, Fanny 52
51, 148 Bazalgette, Sir Joseph 45 Brick Lane 154, 155
Guildhall Art Gallery 136 BBC 45 Brighton 167
180
Britain and London Visitor Camden Arts Centre 144 churches (cont.)
Centre 163 Camden Markets 65, 141 The City 138
British Library 107 Cameron, Julia Margaret 15 St Anne and St Agnes
British Museum 6, 8–11, Camino 145 138
48, 109 Canada Tower 16 St Bartholomew-the-
British Museum Shop 110 Canadian High Great 46, 138
Index
Brixton Academy 58 Commission 160 St Bride’s 47
Brixton Jamm 59 Canary Wharf 153 St George’s Church 109
Brixton Market 150 Canela 104 St Katherine Cree 138
Brompton Hotel 172 Canova, Antonio 114 St Lawrence Jewry 138
Brompton Oratory 47, 121 Cantaloupe 157 St Magnus the Martyr
Brontë sisters 14 Canteen 157 137, 138
Brook, Peter 57 Canterbury 167 St Martin-in-the-Fields 46
Brown, Capability 28, 149 Canterbury, Archbishops St Mary-le-Bow 138
Brown’s 115, 116, 177 of 70, 167 St Paul’s Cathedral
Brunswick Centre 109 Cantina Vinopolis 87 7, 16, 40–43
BT Tower car rental 162 St Paul’s Church 101
17, 108 Cargo 59, 157 St Sepulchre-without-
Buckingham Palace Carluccio’s Caffè 111 Newgate 138
7, 26–7, 115 Carlyle, Thomas 53 St Stephen Walbrook 138
budget travel 171 Caro, Anthony 153 Southwark Cathedral 46
Burberry 123 Carpenter’s Arms 151 Temple Church 46
bureaux de change 165 Carracci, Annibale 55 Westminster Abbey 7,
Burgh House 142, 143 Catholic martyrs 38 32–3, 81, 83
Burlington, Lord 148 Cavendish, Lord George 115 Westminster Cathedral
Burlington Arcade 115 Caxton, William 35 47
Busaba Eathai 95 Central Hall 35 Churchill, Winston
buses 162, 168 Changing of the Guard 35, 42, 43, 82, 114
The Bush 150 115 Churchill Arms 124
Bush House 102 Channel crossings 161 Churchill War Rooms 82
Bushy Park 29 Chaplin, Charlie 53 The Cinnamon Club 87
Byron, Lord 15, 63 Charbonnel et Walker 116 The City 134–9
Charity Shops 123 churches 138
C Charles Dickens Museum map 134
Cabot Hall 156 108 restaurants 139
Café Below 139 Charles, Prince of Wales City Jogging Tours 168
Café Boheme 93 43, 54 Clarence House 55
Café de Paris 59 Charles I, King 35, 39, 44 Clarke’s restaurant 76,125
Café Lido 122 Charles II, King Clement VII, Pope 44
Cafe Spice Namaste 157 15, 44, 55, 101, 143, 149 Clink Exhibition 84
cafés Charlotte, Queen 54 Clive, Robert 114–15
Bloomsbury and Charlotte Street Hotel 174 clothing
Fitzrovia 111 Chaucer, Geoffrey 72 shops 170, 171
Covent Garden 104 Chessington World what to pack 160
East London 157 of Adventures 167 Club Gascon 76, 139
Kensington and Chez Bruce 151 coach (long-distance bus)
Knightsbridge 124 Chez Gerard 105 travel 161
Mayfair and St James’s Chicago 60 The Colonnade 177
117 children 68–9, 160 Columbia Hotel 172
Regent’s Park and Chinatown 89, 91 Columbia Road Market 155
Marylebone 133 Chinese New Year 67 communications 165
Soho and the West End Chiswick House 148 Conran, Sir Terence 77
94 Christie’s 122 The Conran Shop 131, 132
Westminster, South churches 46–7 consulates 166
Bank and Southwark 86 All Hallows by the Tower Contemporary Applied Arts
Caffé Caldesi 133 138 110
Caffè Florian 124 All Souls 47 Cook, Captain James 8, 22
Cambridge 167 Brompton Oratory 47, 121 Coq d’Argent 77
181
Coram’s Fields 69 Docklands 45, 152, 153 emergencies 166
Cork and Bottle 93, 94 Docklands Light Railway Emin, Tracey 116, 153
Cork Street galleries (DLR) 162 Emirates Stadium Tours
115, 116 Docklands Sailing & 144
Cornelissen & Son 110 Watersports Centre 156 Endurance 94
The Court Hotel 179 Doggett’s Coat and Badge English National Opera 102
Index
Courtauld Gallery 50, 99, 67 entertainment venues 56–7

101 Donne, John 42 Albert Hall 120
Covent Garden 98–105, The Dorchester 177 Barbican Centre
100, 101 Dorset Square Hotel 176 56, 135, 137
the best of the rest 102 Dover Castle Hostel 179 budget travel 171
map 98 Downing, Sir George 82 Cabot Hall 156
pubs and cafés 104 Downing Street 82 ICA 57
restaurants 105 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 52 late night venues 93
shops 103 Drake, Sir Francis 80 London Coliseum 56
Covent Garden Hotel 177 driving licences 160 Riverside Studios 57
Crafts Council 144 Dryden, John 62 Royal Albert Hall 57
Cranley Gardens Hotel 173 Duck Tours 84 Royal Court Theatre 57
Craven Gardens Hotel 172 Dudley family 38 Royal Festival Hall 56
credit cards 165, 170 Duke of York Steps 55 Royal National Theatre 56
crime 166 Dulwich Picture Gallery Royal Opera House
Criterion 95 51, 148 56, 99
Cromwell, Oliver 35 Dunstan, St 33 Sadler’s Wells 57
Crown Jewels 36, 39 Durrants Hotel 176 Theatre Royal Stratford
Crystal Palace 17 East 156
cultural highlights 45 E Wigmore Hall 130
currency 160 The Eagle 63 Ernst, Max 142
Curzon, Lord 8 East London 152–7 Esarn Kheaw 151
customs limits 160 map 152 Eurostar 109
Cutler & Gross 123 restaurants 157 ExCel 156
Cutty Sark 71, 149 Edward, Prince 27 excursions 167, 168
cycling 75, 162 Edward I, King 33
Edward III, King 35 F
D Edward VI, King 90
Daldry, Stephen 61 Edward VII, King 55 Fabric 59
Dalí, Salvador 18, 84 Edward the Confessor Falkiner Fine Papers 110
Danby, Francis 32, 33, 36 famous residents 52–3
The Deluge 20 Eisenhower, Dwight 53, 114 Faraday, Michael 115
Darwin, Charles 22 Electric Cinema 122 fashion
Daunt’s Books 132 electrical appliances 160 budget travel 171
David, Sir Percival 108 Elgin, Lord 8 stores 170, 171
de Gaulle, Charles 53 Eliot, George 143 Fashion and Textile
Dean, Beryl 41 Eliot, TS 60 Museum 84
Dean’s Yard 35 Elizabeth, Queen Mother Fawkes, Guy 67
Debenhams 132 55 faxes 165
Dennis Severs’ House Elizabeth I, Queen Fayed, Dodi Al 120
156 14, 33, 35, 38 Fenton House 142
dentists 166 Elizabeth II, Queen 14, 32, Fenwick 116
Design Museum 49 35, 41, 43 Fernandez and Wells 94
dialling codes 165 Buckingham Palace ferries 161
Diana, Princess of Wales 32, 7, 26–7 Festival of Britain 45
43, 54, 55, 118, 119, 120 Crown Jewels 39 festivals and events 66–7
Dickens, Charles Trooping the Colour 66 Fielding Hotel 172
32, 52, 108 Elizabeth Hotel 172 Fifth Floor Café 124
Dirty Dancing 61 Ellis Brigham 103 Firepower 150
disabled visitors 164 Elysée Hotel 179 Fire services 166
Disraeli, Benjamin 35 embankments 45 Fish! 87
Divertimenti 132 embassies 160, 166 Fitzgerald, Ella 58
182
Fitzrovia see Bloomsbury George VI, King Hamburger Union 105
and Fitzrovia 33, 36, 39, 55 Ham House 149
Fitzroy Tavern 109, 111 George Inn 62, 86 Hamilton, Sir William 9
Flambard, Ralph de, Gerard, John 38 Hamleys 64
Bishop of Durham 38 Gibbons, Grindling 40 Hampstead Heath 74, 141
Flanagan and Allen 73 Gibbs, James 46 Hampstead Theatre 144
Index
The Flask 145 Gieves and Hawkes 116 Hampstead Village
Floral Street 103 gift shops 170 Guesthouse 178
Florence Nightingale Gilbert and George 153 Hampstead Wells 142
Museum 84 Gillespie, Dizzy 58 Hampton Court 54, 147
Floridita 93 The Glasshouse 151 Handel, George Friedrich
Fontana, Lucio, Spatial Globe Theatre 40, 45, 53, 107, 138
Concept “Waiting” 19 70, 77, 83, 86 Hardy, Thomas 11
Footstool 86 Golden Hind 133 Harrods 64, 120, 123
Forster, EM 11 Golden Hinde 84 Harvard, John 46
Fortnum and Mason 64, Goldfinger, Ernö 142 Harvey Nichols 64, 123
115, 116 Gordon’s Wine Bar 94, 104 Hawksmoor, Nicholas
Fosse, Bob 61 33, 73, 154
The Gore 176
Foster, Norman 11, 153 Hayward Gallery 56, 82
The Goring 177
Four Seasons Hotel 175 Hazlitt’s 176
Gourmet Pizza Company 87
Fournier Street 155 Head, Guy,
Grange Langham Court
Fox 157 Horatio Nelson 15
Hotel 173
Foyles 92 Head of the River Race 67
The Grapes 63
Franklin, Benjamin 46, 53 Heals 109, 110
Great British Beer Festival
health 166
free entertainment 102, 171 67 Heathrow Airport 17, 161
Freightliners Farm 144 Great Court, British Heaven 59
French House 63, 94 Museum 11 helicopter tours 168
French’s Dairy 110 The Great Exhibition The Hempel 174
Freud, Anna 141 (1851) 45 Hendrix, Jimi 53
Freud, Lucian, Great Fire (1666) 44, 48 Henry III, King 33, 36, 37
Girl with a White Dog 21 Greenhouse, The 117 Henry IV, King 36
Freud, Sigmund 52, 141 Green Park 29 Henry VI, King 38, 148
Freud Museum 141 Green Room, The 151 Henry VII, King 15, 32, 33
Freuds 104 Greenwich 147 Henry VIII, King 15, 44, 148
Friends Provident Trophy Greenwich Palace 148 Hampton Court 54
67 Greenwich Park 29 royal parks 29
Fromagerie, La 133 Greer, Germaine 15 St James’s Palace 113
Grey, Lady Jane 37, 38 Tower of London
G Gribble, Herbert 47 36, 37, 38
Gabriel’s Wharf 83, 85 Grosvenor Square 29 Hepworth, Barbara 51
Gainsborough, Thomas 50 Grosz, George, Suicide 19 Highgate Cemetery
Wooded Landscape with Guesthouse West 176 75, 143
a Peasant Resting 20 guided tours 164, 168 Hilton London Stansted
galleries see art galleries Guildhall 136 Airport 178
Gandhi, Mahatma 11, 53 Guildhall Art Gallery 136 Hirst, Damien
gardens see parks and Gun 157 51, 116, 125, 153
gardens Gundolph, Bishop of history 44–5
The Gate 151 Rochester 37 HMV Forum 58
Gatwick Airport 161 Guy Fawkes Night 67 Hockney, David 153
Gauguin, Paul 50 Guy’s Hospital Dental Hogarth, William 53, 107
Geffrye Museum 155 Department 166 Holbein, Hans
Generator Hostel London Gwynne, Nell 101, 143 The Ambassadors 12
179 The Whitehall Mural 15
George I, King 45, 109 H Holiday Inn Express 175
George III, King Hakkasan 76, 111 holidays, public 169
54, 107, 147 Halkin 174 Holland Park 121
George IV, King (Prince Hall, Sir Benjamin 34 concerts 122
Regent) 26, 29, 55, 130 Hals, Frans 50, 129 Holly, Buddy 60
183
Holmes, Sherlock 52, 130 James I, King 37 Leeds Castle 167
Horniman, Frederick 148 James, Henry 53 Léger, Fernand,
Horniman Museum 148 James Smith and Son The Acrobat and
Horse Guards 82 110 His Partner 18
horse racing 67 Jarndyce 109, 110 Leicester Square 91
horse riding 75 Jazz After Dark 93 Leighton House 121
Index
hospitals 166 Jazz Café 58 Lemonia 145

Host and Guest Service 179 Jerusalem Tavern 62 Leonardo da Vinci, The
hostels 171 Jewel Piccadilly 93 Virgin and Child with
hotels 172–9 Jewel Tower 35 St Anne and St John
booking 163 John, Augustus 106 the Baptist 12
budget accommodation John, Elton 61 Leroux, Gaston 60
179 John Lewis 65, 132 Les Trois Garçons 157
business hotels 175 Johnson, Amy 25 Liberty 64, 110
character hotels 176 Johnson, Dr 52, 62, 72 Lichtenstein, Roy,
designer hotels 174 Jones, Inigo 54, 55, 98, Whaam! 18
disabled visitors 164 100, 101 Lillywhites 92
inexpensive hotels 172 Lincoln, Abraham 35
luxury hotels 177 K Lion King 60
mid-price hotels 173 Keats, John 52, 63, 141 literary London 72–3
hotels out of town 178 Keats House 141, 143 Littlewood, Joan 156
House of Commons 35 Kensington and Llewellyn Alexander 85
House of Lords 35 Knightsbridge 118–25 Lloyd Webber, Andrew 60
Houses of Parliament 16, map 118 1 Lombard St 139
34, 35, 81, 83 pubs and cafés 124 London Bed & Breakfast
Howard, Katherine 37, 38 restaurants 125 Agency 171
Hoxton 153 shops 123 London Bridge Hotel 175
Hoxton Hotel 173 Kensington Gardens 28, 74 London Central Mosque
Hugo, Victor 60 Kensington Hotel 177 131
Huguenots 154 Kensington Palace London City Airport 161
Hyde Park 28, 74, 121 54, 119, 121 London Coliseum 56, 102
Hyde Park Stables 122 Kent, William 148 London Dungeon 69
Kenwood House 51, 142 London Eye 6, 16–17, 81
I Kenwood House Hotel London Film Festival 67
Ibis London Docklands 178 172 London Hostel Association
ICA 57 Kew Gardens 147 171
Café 117 Kew Palace 54 London Lesbian & Gay
I. Camisa 92 King, Martin Luther 43 Switchboard 163
ice skating 75 King’s Head Theatre Pub London Tourist Board 163
IMAX 3D cinema 25, 84 144 London Transport Museum
Imperial War Museum The Kinks 73 49, 100
49, 83 Kipling, Rudyard 11 London Trocadero 68, 91
Incognico 95 kite flying 75 London Zoo 68, 129
indigO2 59 Knightsbridge Lord Mayor’s Show 66
Inn at Kew Gardens 151 see Kensington lost property 166
Inn the Park restaurant, and Knightsbridge Louis Patisserie 145
St James’s Park 113, 115 Koko 58 Lower Marsh 85
insurance 160 Konditor & Cook 85 Lowlander 104
International Students L-Restaurant and Bar 125
House 171, 179 L Lucas, Sarah 153
Internet 165 The Lamb and Flag 62, 104 lunch hours 169
Italian Grafitti 95 Lambeth Palace 70, 83 Luton Airport 161
Itsu 95 Lancaster Court Hotel 172
The Ivy 105 Landseer, Edwin 89 M
The Lanesborough 177 MacInnes, Colin 73
J Lasdun, Denys 56 Madame Jo-Jo’s 59
J Sheekey 95 late evenings, shops 169 Madame Tussaud’s
Jack the Ripper 152, 168 Lauderdale House 143 68, 91, 129, 131
184
Magic Wok 125 Mon Plaisir 105 museums (cont.)
Magritte, René, The Monet, Claude 50 Museum of London 48,
Reckless Sleeper 19 Bathers at La 136
Mahler, Gustav 45 Grenouillière 13 Museum of London
Maison Bertaux 91, 94 money 160, 165 Docklands, 153
Malmaison 173 Monmouth Coffee House National Maritime
Index
Mandalay 133 86, 101, 104 Museum 48, 149
Manet, Edouard 50 Monument 137 Natural History Museum
Manna 145 Moore, Henry 51, 74, 142 6, 22–3, 48, 119
Marathon 67 Mother and Child 41 Royal Institution 112,
Marco 151 Pink and Green Sleepers 115
Margaret, Princess 119 21 Royal Mews 27
Market Bar 124 More, Sir Thomas 38 Science Museum 7,
Market Porter 86 Morgan Hotel 172 24–5, 48, 119
markets 6 4–5, 85, 171 Morris, William 64, 119 Sherlock Holmes
Marks & Spencer 132 mosques 131 Museum 130
Marx, Karl 11, 143 The Mousetrap 61 Sir John Soane’s
Mary I, Queen 38 Mozart, Wolfgang A 53 Museum 107
Mary II, Queen 29, 54, 119 Mr Chow, restaurant 125 Sutton House 156
Mary Queen of Scots 33 Mudchute Farm 156 Three Mills Museum
Marylebone Mulberry 116 156
see Regent’s Park Murillo, Bartolomé Tower Bridge
and Marylebone Esteban 51 Exhibition Tour 135
Marylebone Cricket Club museums 48–9 Victoria & Albert
Museum 130 Apsley House 114 Museum 48, 119,
Marylebone Farmers’ Bank of England 121, 122
Market 132 Museum 136–7 V&A Museum of
Marylebone Lane 132 booking ahead 169 Childhood 49, 69,
matinees 169 British Museum 6, 8–11, 152, 154
Matisse, Henri 48, 109 2 Willow Road 142
The Snail 18 budget travel 171 Wimbledon Tennis
Mayfair and St James’s Burgh House 142, 143 Museum 149
112–17 Charles Dickens World Rugby Museum
map 112 Museum 108 150
restaurants 117 Churchill War Rooms 82 music
shops 116 Clink Exhibition 84 free concerts 171
Mazzini, Giuseppe 53 Dennis Severs’ House shops 170
Melia White House 173 156 venues 58–9
membership cards 160 Design Museum 49 musicals 60–61
Mendelssohn, Felix 40 disabled visitors 164 myhotel Bloomsbury 174
Merc 92 Fenton House 142
Mercure London City Firepower 150 N
Bankside 174 Florence Nightingale Nag’s Head 124
Merton Abbey Mills 150 Museum 84 Namco Station 84
Metrogusto 145 Freud Museum 141 Napoleon 89, 114
Metropolitan 174 Geffrye Museum 155 Nash, John
Michelangelo 113, 115 Horniman Museum 148 All Souls 47
Mildenhall Treasure 9 Imperial War Museum Buckingham Palace 26–7
Mile End Park 156 49, 83 Clarence House 55
Millais, John Everett 179 Keats House 141, 143 ICA 57
Millennium 17 Lauderdale House 143 Piccadilly Circus 89
Millennium Bridge 70 Leighton House 121 Regent’s Park 29, 130
Miller’s Residence 176 London Transport National Gallery 6, 12–13,
Milroy’s of Soho 92 Museum 49, 100 50, 91
minicabs 162 Madame Tussaud’s 129, National Maritime
Les Misérables 60 131 Museum 48, 149
Mitre 178 Marylebone Cricket Club National Portrait Gallery 6,
Momo 117 Museum 130 14–15, 50, 91
185
Natural History Museum Palaces 54–5 Philipps, Nicola Jane,
6, 22–3, 48, 119 Buckingham Palace 7, Prince William of Wales;
nature watching 75 26–7, 115 Prince Henry of Wales
Neal’s Yard 100–101 Greenwich Palace 148 15
Neal’s Yard Dairy 101 Hampton Court 54, 147 Phillips, Thomas, George
Neal’s Yard Remedies 100, Kensington Palace 54, Gordon, 6th Lord Byron
Index
101 119, 121 15

Nelson, Viscount 15, 42, Kew Palace 54 photocopies 165
43, 48, 89, 90 Lambeth Palace 70, 83 Piazza and Central Market
Nelson’s Column 90 St James’s Palace 54, (Covent Garden) 99, 101
Newman, John Henry 113, 115 Picasso, Pablo 116
47 Palladio, Andrea 100 Three Dancers 18
Newton, Helmut 15 Parkinson, Norman 15 Piccadilly Circus 89, 91
New World 95 parks and gardens Pig’s Ear 76
Nicole’s Restaurant 117 28–9, 171 PizzaExpress Jazz Club
nightclubs 59 Battersea Park 69, 150 58, 93
Nightingale, Florence 80 Berkeley Square 114–15 Plastic People 59
No.5 Maddox Street 174 budget travel 171 police 166
North London 140–45 Bushy Park 29 Pollock, Benjamin 109
the best of the rest 144 Green Park 29 Pollock, Jackson,
eating and drinking 145 Greenwich Park 29 Summertime No. 9A 19
Northumberland, Duke of Grosvenor Square 29 Pollock’s Toy Museum and
149 Hampstead Heath 141 Shop 109
Notting Hill Carnival 66 Holland Park 121 Pont de la Tour, Le,
Novotel London Hyde Park 28, 121 restaurant 77
Greenwich 178 Kensington Gardens 28 Porterhouse 104
Nunn, Trevor 60 Mile End Park 156 Portobello Gold 124
Parliament Hill 141 Portobello Hotel 176
O Primrose Hill 29 Portobello Road 65,
O2 arena 59 Regent’s Park 29, 129, 120
Oasis Sports Centre 102 130 Portobello stalls 124
Octopus 103 Richmond Park 29 Portrait Restaurant 77
O Fado 125 Royal Botanic Gardens, postal services 165
Old Compton Street 90, 91 Kew 147 Poussin, Nicolas 50, 51
Old Spitalfields Market St James’s Park Premier Inn Hampstead
155 28, 113, 115 178
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Syon Park 149 Presley, Elvis 132
62 Victoria Park 156 Priestley, JB 61
Olivier, Laurence 45 Wimbledon Common 150 Primrose Hill 29
One Aldwych 174 Parliament 35, 44, 81 Princess Louise (pub) 63
100 Club 58 Parliament Hill 141 Priscilla Queen of the
open house 168 Parliament Square 7, 34–5 Desert 61
opening hours 165, 170 Parliamentary Bookshop Promenade Concerts 66
The Orangery 121, 124 85 Prospect of Whitby 157
Original Tajines 133 passports 160 Proud Gallery 101
Orrery 77, 131, 133 Patisserie Valerie 90, 94, Providores, The & Tapa
Orso 105 121 Room 133
Oxford 167 Patogh 133 publications 163
Oxford and Cambridge Paul 104 pubs 55, 62–3
Boat Race 67 Paxton’s Head 124 Bloomsbury and
Oxo Tower 77, 83, 84 Pelli, Cesar 153 Fitzrovia 111
Oxo Tower Restaurant Penhaligon’s 103 The City 139
Bar and Brasserie 87 Pepys, Samuel 72 Covent Garden 104
Oxo Tower Wharf 85 performing arts 56–7 East London 157
Phantom of the Opera Kensington and
P 60 Knightsbridge 124
Paddington Court Hotel pharmacies 166 Mayfair and St James 117
175 Philip, Prince 27 North London 144, 145
186
Pubs (cont.) restaurants 76–7, 169 Royal Garden Hotel 173
Regent’s Park and Bloomsbury and Royal Institution 112, 115
Marylebone 133 Fitzrovia 111 Royal London 54–5
Soho and the West End 94 The City 139 Royal Mews 27
South and West London Covent Garden 105 Royal National Theatre
151 disabled visitors 164 45, 56, 82, 168
Index
Westminster, South Bank East London 157 Royal Opera House
and Southwark 86 Kensington and 45, 56, 99, 101
Pugin, Augustus Welby 34 Knightsbridge 125 royal parks and gardens
Punk 93 Mayfair and St James 117 28–9
Purcell, Henry 45, 138 North London 145 The Royal Trafalgar 173
Regent’s Park and Rugby 67
Q Marylebone 133 Rules 77, 105
Queen Anne’s Gate 55 Soho and the West End rush hours 169
Queen Charlotte’s Cottage 95 Russell, Willy 61
54 South and West London
Queen Elizabeth II Bridge 151 S
17 Westminster, South Sargent, John Singer
Queen Elizabeth Hall Bank and Southwark 87 Carnation, Lily, Lily,
82 Reubens 131, 133 Rose 21
Queen’s Chapel 55 Reynolds, Sir Joshua Sadler’s Wells 57, 144
Queen’s Gallery, 50, 100 safety 166
Buckingham Palace Three Ladies Adorning S&M Cafe 145
26, 51 a Term of Hymen 20 St Anne and St Agnes 138
Queen’s House 55 Reza, Yasmina 61 St Bartholomew-the-Great
Queens Ice Bowl 122 RHS Chelsea Flower 46, 138
Show 66 St Bride’s 47
R Rice, Tim 61 St Christopher’s, The
Racine 125 Richard II, King 14 Village, hostel 179
radio 45, 163 Richard III, King 38 St George’s Church 109
rail travel 161, 162 Richmond 74, 148 St James’s see Mayfair
Raleigh, Sir Walter 15, 35 Richmond Hill Hotel 178 and St James’s
Rasa Samudra 76, 109, 111 Richmond Park 29 St James’s Palace
ravens, Tower of London 37 Rigby & Peller 123 54, 113, 115
The Real Greek 157 Ritz 177 St James’s Park 28, 113, 115
Reformation 44 The River Café 151 Inn the Park café/
Regent’s Canal 74, 130, 168 river sights 70–71, 102, 168 restaurant 113, 115
Regent’s Park Riverside Hotel 178 St John Bread & Wine
29, 55, 129, 130 Riverside Studios 57 155, 157
Garden Café 129 Roast 87 St John restaurant 77, 139
Honest Sausage café Rock and Sole Plaice 105 St Katharine Docks 71, 137
129 Romans 44 St Katharine Cree 138
Regent’s Park Golf and Ronnie Scott’s 58, 93 St Lawrence Jewry 138
Tennis School 144 The Rookery 176 St Magnus the Martyr
Regent’s Park and Roosevelt, Franklin D 114 137, 138
Marylebone 128–33 Rotunda 145 St Margaret’s Church 35
map 128 rowing 75 St Martin-in-the-Fields 46
restaurants 133 Royal Academy 51, 113, 115 St Martins Lane Hotel 174
shops 132 Summer Exhibition 66 St Mary-le-Bow 138
Rego, Paula, Royal Albert Hall 57, 120 St Mary’s Hospital 166
Germaine Greer 15 Royal Armories 37 St Pancras International
Rembrandt 27, 51, 142 Royal Ascot 67 Station 108, 109
A Woman Bathing 13 Royal Botanic Gardens, St Paul’s Cathedral
Renaissance London Kew 147 7, 16, 40–43
Heathrow 178 Royal China 125 St Paul’s Church 101
Renoir, Pierre Auguste Royal College of Music St Sepulchre-without-
At The Theatre 50 122 Newgate 138
Restaurant Services 163 Royal Court Theatre 57 St Stephen Walbrook 138
187
St Thomas’ Hospital 166 Sinatra, Frank 73 Stratford-upon-Avon 167
sales 170 Sir John Soane’s Museum street entertainment 171
Salt Yard 111 107 Sutton House 156
The Sanctuary 102 Six Nations Rugby 67 Swan at the Globe 86
Sanderson 174 skateboarding 75 Sweetings 139
Sauterelle 139 skating 75 swimming 75
Index
Savoy Hotel 70, 102, 177 Sketch 117 Syon House and Park 149
Schönberg, Skylon 77, 83, 87
Claude-Michel 60 Sloane, Sir Hans 8 T
school holidays 169 Smith, Paul 103 Tamarind 117
Science Museum Smith, Zadie 73 Tas 87, 111
7, 24–5, 48, 119 Smiths of Smithfield 139 Tate, Henry 20
Scott, Sir George Gilbert Smithys 111 Tate Britain 6, 20–21, 50, 81
109, 119 Snowdon, Lord 68 Tate Modern 6, 18–19, 50,
Scott, Ronnie 58 Soane, Sir John 107, 136 81, 83
Scribbler 92 Sofitel London Gatwick taxis 162
Sea Life London Aquarium hotel 178 The Tea House 103
68, 84 Soho Square 90 telephones 165
security 166 Soho and the West End television 163
Selfridges 132 88–95 Telford, Thomas 71
Serpentine Gallery 51,122 late night venues 93 Temple Church 46
Seven Dials 100 map 88 tennis 67, 75, 149
Severs, Dennis 156 pubs and cafés 94 Terminus 139
sexual health 166 restaurants 95 Thai Square Putney Bridge
Shaftesbury, Earl of 89 shopping 92 151
Shakespeare, William 14, West End shows 60–61 The Thames Barrier 71, 154
32, 45, 46, 107, 129, 167 Somerset House 99, 101 Thames Path 74
Shakespeare’s Globe 70, songs 73 Thames, River 70–71, 102,
77, 83, 86 Sotheby’s 116 168
Shaw, George Bernard 11 South and West London Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
Shaw’s Booksellers 139 146–51 101
Shepherd, Edward 114 map 146 Theatre Royal Stratford
Shepherd Market 114 restaurants 151 East 156
Shepherd’s 110 South Bank see theatres 56–7
Sheraton Park Tower 175 Westminster, South backstage tours 168
Sherlock Holmes Museum Bank and Southwark cheap tickets 171
130 Southbank Centre disabled visitors 164
The Shop at Bluebird 123 82, 83, 85 matinees 169
shopping 64–5, 170 Southwark see theft 166
Bloomsbury and Westminster, South Thomas, Dylan 106, 109
Fitzrovia 110 Bank and Southwark Thomas Neal Centre
Covent Garden 103 Southwark Cathedral 103
East London 154, 155 46 Thorpe Park 167
Kensington and Southwark Tavern, The 86 Threadneedles 175
Knightsbridge 123 souvenir shops 170 Three Mills Museum
late opening evenings 169 Spaniards Inn 63, 143, 145 156
Mayfair and St James 116 Speakers’ Corner 122 Tijou, Jean 41
North London 141, 144 Spitalfields 154 The Tintin Shop 102
Regent’s Park and sports 67, 75 Top Floor at Smiths of
Marylebone 132 The Square 117 Smithfield 77, 139
sales 170 Stamford Bridge Stadium Toulouse Lautrec,
Soho and the West End Tour 150 Henri de 50
92 Stanford’s 103 tourist information centres
South and West London Stansted Airport 161 163
150 statutory rights, shopping tours 168
Westminster, South 170 Tower Bridge 71, 135
Bank and Southwark 85 Stephenson, George 25 Tower Green 37
Shorts Gardens 103 Storm Nightclub 59 Tower Hotel, The 175
188
Tower of London 7, 36–9 Victoria Embankment Wicked, musical 61
Townley, Charles 8, 9 Gardens 102 Wigmore Hall 130
Trafalgar Square 89, 91 Victoria Park 156 Wilde, Oscar 11, 70, 72, 73
Traitors’ Gate 37 Victoria Station 55 William I the Conqueror,
travel 161–2 Villandry Foodstore 111 King 36, 37, 44
disabled visitors 164 Vinopolis 85 William II, King 38
Index
discounts 171 Vinopolis Wine Wharf 86 William III, King 29, 54, 119
travel passes 162 visas 160 William IV, King 39, 55
Travel Bookshop 123 Visit London 163 2 Willow Road 142
Travel Inn London County Volupté 59 Wimbledon Common
Hall 172 75, 150
traveller’s cheques 160 W Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Travelex 165 The Waldorf Hilton 177 Championship 67
Trooping the Colour 66 Walking Tours 168 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Trotsky, Leon 11 walks 74–5, 162, 168 Museum 149
Troubadour Coffee House Bloomsbury and Windsor Castle 17, 167
59 Fitzrovia 109 The Witch Ball 92
Truckles 111 The City 137 Woburn Abbey 108, 167
Turner, JMW 20, 42, 45 Covent Garden 101 Wódka 125
Norham Castle, Sunrise East End 155 The Wolseley 117
20 Greenwich 149 Wolsey, Cardinal 41, 54
Turpin, Dick 63 Kensington 121 women travellers 166
Tussaud, Madame 68 Marylebone 131 Woolf, Virginia 11, 72, 106
Twain, Mark 53 North London 143 World Food Café 104
riverside 83 World Rugby Museum
U St James’s 115 150
Underground 44, 162 West End 91 Wren, Sir Christopher 44
United States Embassy 160 The Wallace Café 133 churches 16, 46, 47, 115,
University College Wallace Collection 50, 129 134, 138
Hospital 166 Waterhouse, John William Kensington Palace 54
University College London The Lady of Shalott 21 Monument 137
108 Waterstone’s Piccadilly Royal Naval Hospital 48,
65, 116 148
V Watt, James 24 St Paul’s Cathedral 7,
Van Dyck, Sir Anthony 27 Weardowney 173 40–42
Van Eyck, Jan, The weather 163 WWT London Wetland
Arnolfini Portrait 12 Webb, Sir Aston 26, 46 Centre 75, 150
Van Gogh, Vincent, Wellington, Duke of Y
The Sunflowers 13 42, 43, 53, 114 Yauatcha 95
Varsity Match 67 Wesley, John 35 Yeomen Warders 36
VAT (Value Added Tax) 170 West End see Soho Yevele, Henry 32, 33
Velázquez, Diego 114 and the West End YMCA 179
The Rokeby Venus 13 Westfield 65 Young Vic Theatre 84
Vermeer, Jan 142 Westminster, South Bank Youth Hostels Association
The Guitar Player 51 and Southwark 80–85 171, 179
A Young Woman map 80
Standing at a Virginal 13 pubs and cafés 86 Z
Vertigo 42 77, 139 restaurants 87 Zetter 173
Via Fosse 155 shops and markets 85
Victoria, Queen 26, 43, 54, Westminster Abbey
55, 119, 120 7, 32–3, 81, 83
Victoria and Albert Westminster Cathedral 47
Museum 48, 119, 121 Westminster Hall 34
V&A Friday Late 122 White Tower 36
V&A Museum of Whitechapel Gallery
Childhood 49, 69, 152, 153, 155
154 Whitehall 82
Victoria Coach Station 161 Whittington, Dick 136
189
Acknowledgements
The Author Enticknap, John Heseltine, Roger
Roger Williams is a London-born Hilton, Ed Ironside, Colin Keates,
journalist and long-time Soho Dave King, Bob Langrish, Robert
Acknowledgements
inhabitant. He has written and edited O’Dea, Stephen Oliver, John Parker,
several dozen travel guides, including Rob Reichenfeld, Kim Sayer, Susana
Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Smith, Chris Stevens, James
guides to Provence and Barcelona. Strachan, Doug Traverso, Vincent
He is also the author of The Royal Oliver, David Ward, Matthew Ward,
Albert Hall: A Masterpiece for the Steven Wooster
21st century, and his fictions
include Lunch With Elizabeth David Picture Credits
and High Times at the Hotel Bristol. t-top, tl-top left; tlc-top left centre;
tc-top centre; tr-top right; cla-centre
Project Editor Simon Hall left above; ca-centre above; cra-
Art Editor Nicola Rodway centre right above; cl-centre left; c-
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Publishing Manager Kate Poole right below; bl-bottom left, b-bottom;
Senior Publishing Manager bc-bottom centre; bcl-bottom centre
Louise Bostock Lang left; br-bottom right; d-detail.
Director of Publishing Gillian Allan
Photographer Demetrio Carasco The publishers would like to thank
Illustrator Chris Orr & Associates the following individuals,
Cartography Casper Morris companies and picture libraries for
Maps Tom Coulson, Martin Darlison their kind permission to reproduce
(Encompass Graphics Ltd) their photographs.
Editors Michelle de Larrabeiti, ALAMY IMAGES: Robert Harding
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Must-see museums & galleries

Best restaurants in each area

Ways to experience Royal London

10 Most fun places for children

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Left Old English Garden, Battersea Park Right Tower Bridge

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually.

2 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com

Famous Residents 52 Soho & the West End 88

Shops and Markets 64 Regent’s Park &

River Sights 70 Heading North 140

Literary London 72 South & West 146

London on Foot 74 Heading East 152

Best Places to Eat 76 Streetsmart

Westminster, the Places to Stay 172

fashion, music and the arts. There is a fantastic

3 67( $ ' 5'

wheel sits in the heart of

London opposite the Houses

of Parliament, on the South 9LFWRULD

The enormous and varied

$ Tate Modern and Tate Britain

6 Preceding pages Tower Bridge

3 (1 & Steeped in bloody history,

%ORRPVEXU\ Jewels (see pp36–9).

bequest of a physician and antiquarian, Sir Hans Egyptian deities took

8 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

For more London museums See pp48–9 9

Left Classical colonnade, British Museum Right Lindow Man

British Museum Collections

* Prints and Drawings

^ Prehistory and Europe ) The Joseph Hotung

10 For more London museums See pp48–9

The Reading Room at the centre of the Great Court

lections in the world. Containing work by the

Explore the collec-

• Trafalgar Square WC2 6 2

One of the most famous by Hans Holbein (1533).

12 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com

For more London galleries See pp50–51 13

names can be put to some not-so-well-known of Elizabeth I, who

from the collection are not always on view.

A range of talks and

• St Martin’s Place WC2

For more London galleries See pp50–51 15

Binoculars are rented

• South Bank SE1

16 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

riverside site opposite the City. Large enough for

With more than

For more London galleries See pp50–51 19

20 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com

For more London galleries See pp50–51 21

by Charles Darwin and Captain Cook’s botanist, gemstones, rocks and

For more London museums See pp48–9 23

technological development. It shows British the moon in May 1969, is

The museum store is

• Exhibition Road SW7

24 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com

^ Babbage’s Difference Engine

For more London museums See pp48–9 25

Buckingham around 1705. In 1825, George IV Top 10 Highlights

Coincide your visit

6W-RKQŝV &,7 6KRUHGLWFK

:RRG 3FHFOUT 2$'