Professional Documents
Culture Documents
London DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides Dorling Kindersley 2011
London DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides Dorling Kindersley 2011
TOP 10
LONDON
10
T M A RT I N ’ S L A N E
ID
RDB URY
ST AC
RE
PL SA
V
M OS
ET
CH D
National
ST M
AM
T I N ’S
WILLI AM IV S
TREET
AN E
ST
OR A NEET Portrait R AC
GE
AR
ST
ST PL
RE
STR AM Y
ET
Gallery
P L AC
VO
N
AD
SA 10
ST
National
S TR
Victoria
JO
E
Embankment
EE
BU
Gallery
Great walks and itineraries
Charing CK
T
Gardens
10
IN
T
Cross V ST G HA
EN
ST TR AFALGAR IL M
EA
LI
SQUAR E ER
KM
S
L ST
Nelson’s
AL
Best hotels for every budget
AN
Charing RE
Column CR
Cross
ET
10
MB
COCKS AV
P
ROGER WILLIAMS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Contents
London’s Top 10
Colour reproduction by Colourscan, Singapore
British Museum 8
Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper
Products Ltd National Gallery &
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
National Portrait Gallery 12
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Copyright 2002, 2011 London Eye 16
© Dorling Kindersley Limited
Reprinted with revisions
2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
Tate Modern &
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under Tate Britain 18
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any Natural History Museum 22
means, (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise), without prior written
permission of both the copyright owner and the Science Museum 24
above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Buckingham Palace &
Dorling Kindersley Limited
A catalog record for this book is available from Royal Parks and Gardens 26
the Library of Congress
ISSN 1479-344X Westminster Abbey &
ISBN 978-0-7566-6942-3
Parliament Square 32
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the
editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Tower of London 36
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance
with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor St. Paul’s Cathedral 40
above ground level.
Moments in History 44
Churches 46
Museums 48
Art Galleries 50
Cover: Front – Alamy Images: David Noton Photography main. DK Images Stephen Oliver clb.
Spine – DK Images Stephen Oliver b. Back – DK Images: Philip Enticknap cl; Stephen Oliver cr;
Getty Images: Joe Cornish c.
Left Lamb and Flag pub, Covent Garden Right View from Parliament Hill
3
LONDON’S
TOP 10
London Highlights
6–7
LONDON’S TOP 10
British Museum
8–11
National Gallery &
National Portrait Gallery
12–15
London Eye
16–17
Tate Modern &
Tate Britain
18–21
Natural History Museum
22–23
Science Museum
24–25
Buckingham Palace &
Royal Parks and Gardens
26–29
Westminster Abbey &
Parliament Square
32–35
Tower of London
36–39
St Paul’s Cathedral
40–43
Top 10 of Everything
44–77
London Highlights
A city of infinite colour and variety, London is both
richly historic, tracing its roots back over 2000
years, and unceasingly modern, at the forefront of
London’s Top 10
& $0
this 1581 miniature of Sir
'(
:( / / ,
1
Francis Drake (see pp12–15).
+,
*+
1*
6
72
7
1
3FHFOUT
+ $0
5
1BSL
2$
6W-RKQ
V
:RRG
3$
5.
21
67
52 (8
0DLGD
( '
$
52 $'
*:
1(
'
9DOH /( % 2
$5
<
0 $5
(
5
2$
0DU\OHERQH
'
1RWWLQJ 3DGGLQJWRQ
(7
+LOO 67 5(
;) 2 5 ' 6RKR
2
3$ 5
$ ' 0D\IDLU
5 2
7 (5
.
%$ < 6 : $
/
(
* $7
$1
+ , // )ZEF1BSL
(
1* 6W-DPHV
V
London Eye 7 7, ,FOTJOHUPO
£ The world’s tallest
1
2
+ROODQG
3DUN
(BSEFOT
(SFFO
1BSL
,' * (
+76 %5
cantilevered observation . 1 ,*
.QLJKWVEULGJH
21
37
.HQVLQJWRQ 20
%5
3LPOLFR
/+
,1
) 8
.
% Natural
Museum
History
London’s Top 10
of science (see pp24–5).
Buckingham Palace
&
The official home of the
Queen, Buckingham Palace * Westminster Abbey
and Parliament
is one of the city’s most Square
recognizable landmarks, This royal abbey has, since
where the changing of the 1066, been the place where
Queen’s guard happens all Britain’s monarchs have
every day (see pp26–7). been crowned (see pp32–5).
< 2 5 . :$ <
3
1& 5
( Tower of London
$
( 5 2 $ '
72 19, //
$ 6 5
, 7 <
.,1 *
$ '
)LQVEXU\ 52$
' the Tower has been a royal
52
6
&5
palace, fortress and prison,
26
6 5 5( ( 7
67
'
2 /' and is the home of the Crown
5 '
00
6
3 6 *$ 7 (
%$/
' +ROERUQ
(5 & , $/
(2
7+
+ 2/% 2 5 1
+2
6
%, 6
7
& + $
&RYHQW &LW\
5 , 1 5'
&
*DUGHQ 1' $ 11
* &5 2 6
5$ 2 1 6
67 7
B NFT
6
5I
%/$&.)5,$5652$'
6RXWK
FS
: +
3J W
'
%DQN
52$
6RXWKZDUN
, 7 ( +$ / /
* (
:
%5, '
$7
( 5/
/2 1
*
22
*
7 2 : (5
5 '
5(
/$
$7
1 (
'
29
:HVWPLQVWHU
(5
67
1 ( :. ( 1752
$'
/DPEHWK
NJMFT LN
) St Paul’s
Cathedral
Sir Christopher
Wren’s Baroque
masterpiece, St
Paul’s still dominates
the City skyline and has
been the setting of many
great ceremonial events
(see pp40–43).
7
British Museum @ Mummified Cat
Cats and sacred cows
The world’s oldest museum has no fewer than 6 were mummified in Ancient
Egypt. This cat comes from
million items spanning 1.8 million years of world Abydos and dates from
civilization. The collection was started with the around 30 BC. Many
London’s Top 10
Top 10 Exhibits
1 Parthenon Sculptures
2 Mummified Cat
3 Ram in a Thicket
The British Museum façade 4 Mildenhall Treasure
There are three cafés 5 Rosetta Stone
6 Portland Vase 0
and one restaurant.
7 Rameses II
Picnics can be eaten 8 Mixtec-Aztec Mosaic Mask 9
in the forecourt by 9 Kwakwaka’wakw
the main entrance. 0 Amitabha Buddha
Highlights’ tours give
an introduction to ! Parthenon Sculptures
This spectacular 5th-
the collection. century BC frieze from the
Parthenon (below) was
The British Museum made under Pericles
shop sells repro- and shows a proces- 7
duction artifacts. sion in honour of 5
the goddess
Athena. It was
• Great Russell Street obtained in 1779
WC1 by Lord Elgin,
• Map L1 Ambassador to 1
• 020 7323 8000 Constantinople.
• www.thebritish
museum.ac.uk
• Open 10am–5:30pm
daily. Great Court:
Open 9am–6pm
Sun–Wed, 9am–11pm
Thu–Sat
• Guided tours at
10:30am, 1pm & 3pm £ Ram in a Thicket
Decorated with shells
daily Key to Floorplan and gold leaf, this priceless
Lower floor ornament comes from Ur
in Sumer, one of the world’s
Ground floor earliest civilizations. Games
Upper floor and musical instruments
are also displayed.
London’s Top 10
lively decorations include sea to be of the god Quetzal-
nymphs, satyrs and Hercules. coatl, and dates from the
15th century.
% Rosetta Stone
In 196 BC Egyptian priests
wrote a decree on this tablet in
both Greek and in Egyptian
hieroglyphics. Found in 1799, it
proved crucial in deciphering
3
Egyptian pictorial writing.
( Kwakwaka’wakw
The large, carved and
painted wood thunder-
bird from North America
6
was used as an anvil for
breaking coppers (a form
8 ^ Portland Vase
Sold by Britain’s
of currency) at potlatches
(ceremonies of Pacific
9 ambassador to Naples, Coast peoples in which
Sir William Hamilton, to chiefs destroyed their
the Duchess of Portland, worldly goods).
this exquisite 1st-century
blue-and-opaque glass
vase comes from a tomb ) Amitabha Buddha
This impressive
in Rome, and was stoneware Buddha dates
probably made by a from around AD 585,
Greek craftsman. during the Chinese Sui
Dynasty, when Buddhism
became the state religion.
Museum Guide
Free maps are available
and guides are on sale
at the information desk
in the Great Court and
shops. Otherwise start
to the left of the main
entrance with the
Assyrian, Egyptian,
& Rameses II
This is all that remains
Greek and Roman
galleries. The North
of the colossal granite Wing ethnography
statue of Rameses II and Asian galleries
(c1275 BC) from his provide a change from
memorial temple at Classical material, as
Thebes. The statue was do the early British,
acquired in the late 18th medieval and Renais-
century by Charles sance collections on
Townley, British the east side.
ambassador to Rome.
£ Greek and
Roman Antiquities Floorplan
Highlights from the Classical world
(c.3000 BC to c.AD 400) include modern day, this collection in-
the Parthenon sculptures and cludes Lindow Man, a 2,000-year-
exquisite Greek and Roman vases. old body found preserved in a
peat bog, the Sutton Hoo Ship
$ Japanese and
Oriental Antiquities
Burial and some fine decorative
arts including medieval jewellery
Buddhist limestone reliefs from and Renaissance clocks.
India, Chinese antiquities, Islamic
pottery and a Japanese collection
so large it has to be shown on a & Coins and Medals
A comprehensive collection
rotating basis. of more than 750,000 coins and
medals dating from the 7th
Native Canadian
gull mask
century BC to the present day.
% Ethnography
An incredible 350,000 objects ( Enlightenment
This exhibition features the
from indigenous peoples around museum’s 18th-century collec-
the world. The Africa gallery holds tions from around the world.
a fine array of art and artifacts.
London’s Top 10
2 Mahatma Gandhi Sir Norman Foster. In the centre of the Court is the
(1869–1948), Indian leader domed Reading Room, built in 1857. Holding one
3 Oscar Wilde (1854–1900), of the world’s most important collections of books
playwright and wit and manuscripts, the Reading Room has been the
4 Virginia Woolf workplace of some of London’s greatest writers
(1882–1941), and is now being used as a temporary exhibition
Bloomsbury novelist space until 2012. The Great Court is the capital’s
5 WB Yeats (1865–1939), largest covered square and contains shops,
Irish poet and playwright cafés and the British Museum’s main ticket and
6 Thomas Hardy information desk, supplying visitors with everything
(1840–1928), English they need for an informed visit.
novelist
7 George Bernard Shaw
(1856–1950), Irish
playwright
8 EM Forster (1879–1970),
English novelist
9 Rudyard Kipling
(1865–1936) Poet,
novelist and chronicler
Rooftop View of the Great Court
of Empire In the heart of the city, the top of the museum’s
0 Leon Trotsky (1879–1940), Reading Room dome can be seen above the
Russian revolutionary rooftops, protruding from the impressive glass
roof of the Great Court.
11
National Gallery
The National Gallery has around 2,300 pictures,
from the early Renaissance to the Impressionists
(1250–1900), forming one of the greatest col-
London’s Top 10
London’s Top 10
^ Mystic Nativity
Feminine grace has never been depicted
better than by the painter Sandro Botticelli
(1445–1510). Painted in a centennial year,
Mystic Nativity reflects his own anxieties,
with an inscription from Revelation.
( AinWoman Bathing
a Stream
This portrait by Rembrandt
(1606–69) was painted
5 when his technical
powers were at their
0 height, and shows his
striking brushwork and
mastery of earthy colours.
Getty
7 entrance
Trafalgar
Square
entrance
1
3
& The Sunflowers Bathers at La
This work was painted ) Grenouillière
in Arles in France during Claude Monet (1840–
a period of rare optimism 1926), the original
while Van Gogh (1853–90) Impressionist, explored
was awaiting the arrival of the effect of light on
$ The Wilton
Diptych
his hero, the avant-garde
painter Paul Gauguin.
water at La Grenouillière
(above), a popular bathing
A highlight of Gothic art, spot on the Seine, where
this exquisite English royal he worked alongside
painting (below), by an Auguste Renoir.
unknown artist, shows
Richard II being recom-
Gallery Guide
mended to the Virgin by
saints John the Baptist, The gallery is divided
Edward and Edmund. into four areas. The
Sainsbury Wing contains
the Early Renaissance
collection, with paintings
from 1250 to 1500. The
* AStanding
Young Woman
at a
West Wing displays
works from 1500 to
Virginal 1600, the North Wing
Peace and calm rule the 1600–1700, and the
works of the Dutch painter East Wing 1700–1900.
Jan Vermeer (1632–75). Although the main
Many of his interiors entrance is on Trafalgar
(above) were painted in Square, the Sainsbury
his home in Delft, but it Wing makes a more
has never been possible sensible starting point.
to identify his models.
14
5
Key to Floorplan 76
2
Ground floor 8
1 4
First floor 0 3
Second floor 9
London’s Top 10
$ The Whitehall Mural
This cartoon of Henry VII
and his son Henry VIII by Hans
Holbein (1537) was drawn for Germaine Greer
a large mural in the Palace ( The feminist author
of Whitehall, lost when the of The Female Eunuch
palace burnt down in 1698. is brilliantly captured
(below) by Portuguese
George Gordon, artist Paula Rego, the
6th Lord Byron % first artist-in-residence at
This painting of Lord the National Gallery.
Byron (1788–1824), by
Thomas Phillips, depicts
the poet and champion of
liberty in Albanian dress.
He died fighting with
Greek insurgents
against the Turks.
^ Horatio Nelson
This 1799 portrait
(below) by Guy Head
depicts Nelson after the
Battle of the Nile. Apart
from Queen Victoria and ) Prince William
of Wales; Prince
the Duke of Wellington, Henry of Wales
he was painted more Commissioned in 2009,
often than any other this portrait was painted
British figure in history. from life by Nicola Jane
(“Nicky”) Philipps. It shows
the Princes wearing the
dress uniform of the
Household Cavalry (Blues
and Royals).
Gallery Guide
The gallery’s three floors
are arranged chronologi-
cally. Take the escalator
to the second floor and
start with the Tudor and
Stuart galleries (1–8).
& Charles
England
II of
Men and women of arts,
Produced around 1680 by science and industry
from the 18th and early
English portrait painter
Thomas Hawker, this * Sir Walter Raleigh
This portrait was paint- 19th century are in
painting depicts King ed in 1602 when military galleries 9 to 20. The
Charles II towards the and naval commander and first floor has eminent
end of his life, looking writer Raleigh was at the Victorians and early pho-
rather lascivious and a height of his renewed tographs. The balcony
little glum. The image favour with Queen and ground-floor
is not a particularly Elizabeth I. The image, by galleries have 20th- and
attractive one but it is an unknown artist, depicts 21st-century works.
an important one. Raleigh with his son.
Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament, it was Wharf (see p153) in the
heart of Docklands, the
built to celebrate the Millennium year, and has East London business
proved enormously popular. Its 32 enclosed and finance centre. It
capsules each hold 25 people and offer total stands in the middle of
the Isle of Dogs, in an
visibility in all directions. A flight on the London area formerly occupied
Eye takes 30 minutes and, on a clear day, you by the West India Docks.
can see up to 40 km (25 miles) across the
capital and the south of England.
Top 10 Sights
1 Houses of Parliament
2 Wren Churches
3 Canada Tower
4 Tower 42
5 BT Tower
Observation capsule
6 Windsor Castle
There are two cafés 7 Heathrow
in County Hall. 8 Alexandra Palace
9 Crystal Palace
Tickets are available
0 Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
on the day but
advanced booking is
advisable, especially
at weekends and in
the school holidays.
After-dark flights
make the city look
romantic.
London’s Top 10
that was moved here in
% BT Tower
Built for the Post Office in 1961–5,
1852 and burned down
spectacularly in 1936.
this 190-m (620-ft) tower (left) is a
television, radio and telecommunications
tower. At the height of terrorist activity in
the 1970s, the revolving restaurant at the
top was closed. It is due to reopen in 2011/12.
) Queen
Elizabeth II Bridge
On a clear day you can
just make out the lowest
downstream crossing on
the Thames, a huge sus-
pension bridge at Dartford,
some 32 km (20 miles)
away. Traffic flows north in
a tunnel under the river,
south over the bridge.
Millennium
Legacy
The London Eye was
one of a number of
nationwide projects
^ Windsor Castle
Windsor Castle sits & Heathrow
To the west of the
designed for the
Millennium. The focus in
by the Thames to the city, London’s main airport London was on the
west of London (below). is one of the busiest enormous Millennium
The largest occupied international airports in the Dome, a spectacular
castle in the world, it is world. The Thames acts structure built in
still a favourite residence as a kind of runway, as Greenwich to house a
of the royal family. planes line up overhead national exhibition.
to begin their descent. Other projects were
Tate Modern (see
* Alexandra Palace
The world’s first
pp18–19) and the
Millennium Bridge, the
high-definition television Waterloo Millennium
broadcasting service was Pier, the Great Court at
transmitted by the BBC the British Museum
from Alexandra Palace on (see pp8–11) and the
2 November 1936. There opening up of Somerset
is an ice hockey rink and House (see p99).
exhibition halls here.
17
Tate Modern
Affiliated with Tate Britain (see pp20–21), one of
London’s most exciting galleries is housed within
the old Bankside power station, on a prime
London’s Top 10
18
% Coffee The Reckless
Pierre Bonnard (1867– * Sleeper ) Spatial Concept
“Waiting”
1947) frequently painted René Magritte (1898– The Italian-Argentine
life at the dining table. 1967) painted this work artist Lucio Fontana
In this 1915 canvas, (below) in 1928, during (1899–1968) began to
the artist portrayed his a period in which he cut canvases in 1959.
London’s Top 10
wife Marthe sipping explored Surrealism and Although these cuts were
coffee with her pet Freudian symbolism. A carefully premeditated,
dachshund by her side, man sleeps in an alcove they were executed
suggesting an intimate above a dark sky and a in an instant. In this
domestic routine. tablet embedded with work, Spatial Concept
everyday objects, as if “Waiting” (below), the
Suicide dreamed by the sleeper. cut erupts from the
This painting by ^ surface, giving the
George Grosz (1893– impression of a gesture
1959) reflects the artist’s towards the viewer in a
disillusionment with way that is at once both
German society energetic and threatening.
especially during
World War I.
( Fish
Constantin Brancusi
(1876–1957) created Fish
in 1926. This sculpture
Gallery Guide
presents a bronze “fish”
on a polished disc above The main entrance is
a wooden base. Brancusi down a ramp into the
was known for his huge Turbine Hall below
ability to capture the ground level, on level 1,
essential qualities of his where the coat check,
subjects in elementary, information and main
abstract forms. shop are. You can also
enter the gallery on the
ground floor, level 2,
by the Café or by the
Millennium Bridge. The
& Summertime
No. 9A
main themed galleries
are on level 3 (material
The American Jackson gestures; poetry and
Pollock (1912–56) was the dream) and level 5,
pioneer of Action Painting. which includes a
He carried out his first learning zone. Temporary
“drip” painting in 1947, exhibitions are on level
pouring paint on to huge 4, and level 7 has a
canvases on the floor. restaurant with great
Summertime No. 9A views of the Thames .
(below) dates from 1948. As with many London
galleries, Tate’s works
of art are sometimes
moved temporarily,
loaned out or removed
for restoration.
Henry Tate (1819–99) who made his fortune from sugar. (1727–88) was a
portrait and landscape
The collection contains works by all Britain’s major painter and a favourite
painters, and was greatly added to by J M W Turner. of the Royal Family.
Paintings are often moved to Tate’s other galleries, His family groups in
landscapes are among
loaned out or removed for restoration. The works on the finest “Conversa-
these pages, therefore, may not always be on display. tion pieces” in English
art. An artistic inter-
Top 10 Paintings pretation of his native
1 Norham Castle, Sunrise Suffolk, this is one of
his earliest landscapes,
2 The Deluge painted in 1747.
3 Wooded Landscape
with a Peasant Resting
4 Three Ladies Adorning
a Term of Hymen
Tate Britain’s grand portico 5 The Lady of Shalott
6 Elohim Creating Adam
Good basement café.
7 Girl with a White Dog
Excellent restaurant,
8 Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose
with good wine list. 9 Pink and Green Sleepers
0 Three Studies for Figures
Free guided tours at the Base of a Crucifixion
daily, weekly talks
and films shown
monthly.
Comprehensive art
bookshop.
Free cloakroom.
• Millbank SW1
• Map E5 ! Norham
Castle, Sunrise
• 020 7887 8888 J M W Turner (1775– $ Three Ladies Adorning
a Term of Hymen
• www.tate.org.uk 1851) was the great Joshua Reynolds (1723–92)
• Open 10am–5:50pm genius of English was the first president of the
daily. Late opening first landscape painting. Royal Academy and a painter
Fri of the month until This work typifies his in the “Grand Manner” – as
10pm. Closed 24–26 Dec use of abstraction and typified by this painting
• Free (admission charge luminosity of colour. (above). He raised the interna-
for most temporary tional status of British art.
exhibitions) The Deluge
• Tate-to-Tate boat Irish artist Francis @
service travels between Danby (1793–1861)
Tate Britain and Tate moved to London
Modern every 40 from Bristol in 1824,
minutes from Millbank where he painted
Pier outside Tate Britain large-scale biblical
subjects as well as
fantasy landscapes,
such as this work.
London’s Top 10
Schools in promising in his view of
London, John life. When first shown,
William this series of paintings
Waterhouse caused an immediate
(1849–1917) famously sensation, shocking
revived the literary
themes of the Pre- ^ Elohim
Creating Adam
audiences with their
savage imagery. They have
Raphaelites, as seen in Born in London and trained become some of his best-
this piece. Waterhouse’s at the Royal Academy known works (below).
subject is taken from School, poet, mystic,
Lord Alfred Tennyson’s illustrator and engraver
tragic poem of the William Blake (1757–1827)
same name. claimed to be guided by
visions. Elohim Creating
Adam is typical of his
work, of which the Tate
has a large collection.
Gallery Guide
The permanent
collection occupies
& Girl
Dog
with a White
three-quarters of the
This picture (above) by main floor. Starting in
Lucian Freud (b1922) the northwest corner, it
shows the artist’s wife follows a broad chrono-
while pregnant. The style logical sweep from the
of the painting has roots 16th century to the
in the linear portraiture of present. The collection
the 19th-century French is arranged into rooms
painter Ingres. exploring historical
themes interspersed
with displays devoted
to single major artists.
Impressive loan exhibi-
tions covering all
manner of British art
are installed in the
remaining quarter of the
main floor and in the
six new galleries on the
* Carnation,
Lily, Rose
Lily,
( Pink and Green
Sleepers lower floor. The Turner
John Singer Sargent One of several 20th- Bequest, some 300 oil
(1856–1925) moved to century artists from paintings and about
Britain from Paris in 1885 Yorkshire, Henry Moore 20,000 watercolours
and adopted some of the (1898–1986) was an out- by J M W Turner, is
Impressionist techniques standing sculptor whose displayed in the
established by his friend, work is on public display adjoining Clore Gallery,
Claude Monet. The title around London. This with oil paintings and
of this work is from a drawing by Moore shows watercolours on view.
popular song of the time. two sleeping figures.
Top 10 Exhibits
1 The Vault
2 Earthquake Simulator
3 Journey Through the Globe
4 Attenborough Studio
5 Model Baby
6 Water Cycle Video Wall
4
7 Fossils
Main entrance 8 Blue Whale
Try the restaurant
9 Dinosaurs 0 8
in the green zone, 0 Darwin Centre
or the other two
cafés and snack bars.
@ Earthquake
Simulator
A number of different The Power Within 5
tours are available, looks at volcanoes 9
including a visit to and earthquakes.
the outdoor Wildlife Experience a
Garden. Details at simulation of the
the Central Hall 1995 Kobe earth-
information desk. quake in a Japanese 7
supermarket (below).
6
• Cromwell Road SW7
• Map B5
• 020 7942 5000
• www.nhm.ac.uk
• Open 10am–5:50pm
daily. Last admission
5:30pm $ Attenborough
Studio
• Closed 24–26 Dec On the ground floor
• Free of the Darwin Centre,
the Attenborough
Studio is a state-of-
the-art audio-visual
£ Journey Through
the Globe
facility with 64 seats.
The venue hosts
Approach the red zone by an events, films and
escalator that travels through talks covering all
a giant globe. The model is aspects of life on
made of iron, zinc and copper to earth as well as
symbolize the Earth’s composition. scientific discovery.
22
% Model Baby
A giant model of an unborn baby in the Human
Biology galleries demonstrates sounds heard in
the womb. Other hands-on exhibits test abilities and
reactions and show how physical
characteristics are inherited.
London’s Top 10
^ Water Cycle Video Wall
A semi-spherical video wall in
the Ecology Gallery shows the ( Dinosaurs
T. Rex, one of the
water cycle and how it links all life museum’s impressively
on the planet. A walk-through leaf life-like animatronic
shows how plants make oxygen. models, lurches and
roars in this hugely
popular gallery. More
traditional exhibits of
fossilized skeletons and
eggs are also on display.
) Darwin Centre
One of the centre’s
many attractions is Cocoon
(left), a permanent
2 exhibition where visitors
can see incredible insect
and plant specimens as
well as world leading
scientists at work.
Key to Floorplan
Ground floor
First floor
Second floor
Museum Guide
1
The Natural History
* Blue Whale
The Mammal gallery
Museum is divided into
four distinct sections:
houses this fascinating the blue zone, which
exhibit, where both includes the dinosaur
3 modern mammals and gallery; the green zone,
their fossil relatives are which includes the
dwarfed in comparison ecology and creepy-
to the astounding life- crawlies galleries; the
sized model of a blue orange zone, which
whale, the largest includes a wildlife
mammal in the world. garden; and the red
& Fossils
Marine reptiles that
zone, which incorporates
the geological displays.
lived at the time of the The ornately
dinosaurs have survived embellished Cromwell
in some remarkable Road entrance leads to
fossils, such as the the imposing central hall
pregnant female with its grand staircase.
Ichthyosaur, found in a An additional entrance
Dorset garden, which on Exhibition Road
lived 187–178 million leads to the red zone.
years ago.
Visitor information
touch screens 8
throughout the
museum give details
of exhibits.
London’s Top 10
used to transport coal. surround sound system
George Stephenson’s will totally immerse
famous 1829 Rocket, the you in the action.
first locomotive engine to
pull passenger carriages,
is also on display.
2
4
Key to Floorplan
Museum Guide
Basement The museum is spread
Ground floor over seven floors.
Heavy machinery and
First floor large-scale museum
highlights are on the
Second floor
ground floor. Tele-
Who am I? communications,
& The upgraded Who Third floor
Fourth floor
measuring time, and
am I? gallery presents agriculture and weather
the latest in brain Fifth floor are on the first floor.
science and genetics The Energy Gallery and
through a mixture of Wellcome Wing computing are on the
interactive exhibits and second floor, and health
object-rich displays.
* Launchpad
This hands-on gallery
and flight are on the
third. The fourth and
is aimed specifically at fifth floors are dedicated
children. In this area to medical history. At
(left), friendly “explainers” the west end of the
make key science building is the four-
principles fun and easy storey Wellcome Wing.
to understand.
Victoria Monument
26
$ Grand Staircase
The Ambassadors’
Entrance leads into the
Grand Hall. From here
the magnificent Grand
Staircase, with gilded
London’s Top 10
balustrades, rises to the
first floor where the
State Rooms are found.
% Throne Room
This houses the
thrones of Queen Eliza- ^ Picture Gallery
One of the largest & State Ballroom
Banquets for visiting
beth and Prince Philip rooms in the Palace, it heads of state are held
used for the coronation. has a barrel-vaulted glass here. The most glittering
Designed by John Nash, ceiling and a number of social event of the year
the room has a highly paintings from the Royal is in November, when
ornamented ceiling and Collection, including works 1,200 members of the
magnificent chandeliers. by Rembrandt (above), Diplomatic Corps arrive
Rubens and Van Dyck. in full court dress.
* Royal Mews
Caring for the Cleve- ( Palace Garden
The extensive Palace
Palace Life
land Bay and Windsor garden is an oasis for The official business of
Grey horses that pull the wildlife and includes a the monarchy takes
royal coach on state three-acre lake. There place in the Palace,
occasions, these are the are at least three Royal which has a staff of
finest working stables in garden parties each year, around 450. The Duke
Britain. The collection to which over 30,000 of Edinburgh, Duke of
of coaches, motorcars people attend (below). York, Prince Edward
and carriages includes and the Princess Royal
the magnificent Gold all have offices here.
State Coach, which The most senior member
was built in c.1760. of the Royal Household
is the Lord Chamberlain.
The Master of the
) Brougham
Every day a Household and the
horse-drawn Palace’s domestic
Brougham carriage staff organise many
sets out to collect functions every year,
and deliver royal including Investitures
packages around for recipients of awards
London, including which are given by
the Palace’s weekly the Queen.
copy of Country Life.
London’s Top 10
and an open-air theatre, park. There are great near Hampton Court.
Regent’s Park (above) views of the Old Royal Highlights include the
is surrounded by John Naval College (below), and Arethusa “Diana” Fountain
Nash’s Classical terraces. over London (see p147). and Chestnut Avenue.
The fragrant Queen
Mary’s Rose Garden is
a delight (see p129).
% Green Park
Popular with
was taken from the
Church by Henry VIII in
office workers, this the 1530s, during the
small park (below) Reformation. He was a
has deckchairs for passionate hunter and
hire in summer. It filled Hyde, Green and
was once part of St James’s parks with
the grounds of St deer. Henry also hunted
James’s Palace. in Greenwich Park,
London’s oldest, having
* Primrose Hill
North of Regent’s
been founded in 1433.
From the late 17th
Park, Primrose Hill offers century, parks were land-
spectacular views of the scaped and gardens laid
city skyline from its 66-m out. In 1689 William and
(216-ft) summit. Once a Mary ordered the plant-
popular venue for duels, ing of Kensington Gar-
this small park was saved dens. In 1811 the Prince
from development in Regent and Nash built
1841 when it was the private estate that
taken over by the became Regent’s Park.
Crown Commissioners.
London’s Top 10
pavement when used for 3
coronations.
7
^ Tomb of
Elizabeth I
2 0
England’s great 8
Protestant queen (1553–
1603) is buried on one
side of the Lady Chapel
while the tomb of her
Catholic rival, Mary Queen
of Scots (beheaded in
1587), is on the other
side. Mary’s remains were Cloisters
brought to the abbey by )The cloisters were
James I in 1612. located at the heart of
the former Benedictine
The Choir monastery and would
& The all-boy have been the mon-
Westminster Abbey astery’s busiest area.
Choir School, the only On the east side are
school in England the only remaining parts
devoted entirely to of the Norman church,
choristers, produces the the Pyx Chamber, where
choir which sings here coinage was tested in
every day. The present medieval times, and
organ was installed in the Undercroft, which
1937 and first used contains a museum.
at the coronation of
George VI.
Abbey History
A Benedictine monas-
tery was established by
St Dunstan (AD 909–
988) on what was the
marshy Isle of Thorney.
King Edward the Con-
fessor re-endowed the
monastery, and founded
the present church in
1065. William the Con-
querer was crowned
* Grave of the
Unknown Warrior
here in 1066. Henry III’s
and abbey. The square was planned as part of the known as Big Ben. How-
ever, the name
rebuilding programme following a fire that destroyed actually refers to
the Palace in 1834. Usually known as the Houses of the clock’s 14-
Parliament, the new Palace of Westminster stands tonne bell, named
after Sir Benjamin
opposite Westminster Abbey. On the north side of the Hall, who was
square, Parliament Street leads to Whitehall and No.10 Chief Commis-
Downing Street, the Prime Minister’s residence. sioner of Works
when it was
installed in
Top 10 Sights 1858.
1 Westminster Abbey
2 Houses of Parliament
3 Big Ben
Detail above Central Hall 4 Westminster Hall
window 5 St Margaret’s Church
The basement café in 6 Winston Churchill Statue
Central Hall is a good 7 Central Hall
place for a snack. 8 Dean’s Yard
To avoid long lines 9 Jewel Tower
for the Strangers’ 0 Statue of Oliver Cromwell
Galleries go after
6pm Mon–Thu.
! Westminster
Abbey
• Parliament Square SW1 See pp32–3.
• Map M6
• www.parliament.uk
• The Strangers’ Galleries
at the Houses of Parlia-
ment have limited
seating for visitors during
debates. Times are given
at St Stephen’s gate, or
phone 020 7219 4272
• Tours can be arranged
through MPs at www. $ Westminster Hall
Westminster Hall (left) is
parliament.uk • Tickets for about all of the original palace
summer opening of that remained after the 1834
parliament are available fire. For centuries the high
from 0844 209 0382 court sat beneath its marvel-
lous hammerbeam roof.
Houses of Parliament
A Gothic revival building @
from 1870 by Sir Charles Barry
and Augustus Welby Pugin, the
Houses of Parliament cover 8
acres and have 1,100 rooms
around 11 courtyards. The
Commons Chamber (right) is
where Members of Parliament
sit and debate policy.
34
Plan of the Square
*
7 * ( 2 5 *
( 6 7
%5,'*(67
0 3
6
5 <
8$
67 0$5 *$
7 1&
7
5 4
London’s Top 10
6$
'
& Central Hall %5
2$
1 2
5( 76 7
This large assembly
hall, built in a Beaux
8 9
Arts style, was funded
by a collection among * Dean’s Yard
Buildings around
the Methodist Church this secluded square
who wanted to
celebrate the
were used by monks
before the Dissolution ( Jewel Tower
Built in 1365 to
centenary of their of the Monasteries in safeguard the treasure
founder John the 1530s which of Edward III, this is
Wesley (1703–91). closed their school an isolated survivor of
here. A new West- the 1834 fire. A small
minster School museum about the
was founded by history of parliament
Elizabeth I in is housed inside.
1560 and it
remains one of
Britain’s top ) Statue of Oliver
Cromwell
public schools. Oliver Cromwell (1599–
1658) presided over
England’s only republic,
which began after the
Civil War. He was buried
in Westminster Abbey,
but when the monarchy
was restored in 1660,
his corpse was taken
to Tyburn and hanged as
though he were a criminal.
Parliament
The 659 publicly elected
Members of Parliament
sit in the House of
Commons, where the
Prime Minister and his
or her government sits
% St Margaret’s
Church ^ Winston
Statue
Churchill on the right-hand side
of the Speaker, who
Winston Churchill was This powerful statue of ensures the House’s
among many eminent Britain’s wartime leader rules are obeyed. The
figures to marry (1874–1965), opposing “shadow”
in this 15th- dressed in his government sits on his
century church. famous coat, is left. The neighbouring
William Caxton one of several House of Lords is for
(1422–91), who statues in the an unelected upper
set up the first square. These chamber which has
printing press in include prime around 700 members
England, and Sir minister and limited powers.
Walter Raleigh, Benjamin Disraeli The Prime Minister
who established (1804–81), attends a weekly
the first British American presi- audience with the
colony in America, are dent Abraham Lincoln Queen, who today has
both buried here. Charles I (1809–65), and many other only a symbolic role.
is also remembered (right). statesmen and soldiers.
35
Tower of London
London’s great riverside fortress is usually
remembered as a place of imprisonment, but it
also has a more glorious past. Originally a moated
London’s Top 10
London’s Top 10
3 17
& The Royal Armouries
This national collection of
4
6
arms and armour, shared with the 9
Royal Armouries’ other museums
in Leeds and Portsmouth, was
greatly expanded under Henry VIII. Plan of the Tower
) Beauchamp Tower
The displays in this
tower explore the
different experiences
of real prisoners of the
Tower, including Lady
Jane Grey and the Kray
twins. The tower takes
its name from Thomas
Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, who was im-
prisoned here between
1397–99 by Richard II.
Tower History
William I’s White Tower,
built by Gundolph,
Bishop of Rochester,
was intended to
defend London against
attacks – and to be a
visible sign to the
native Anglo-Saxon
population of the
conquering Normans’
power. Henry III
(r.1216–72) built the
inner wall with its 13
towers and brought
* Tower Green
The place of execution for the Crown Jewels
nobility, including Lady Jane Grey here. The city arsenal
(1554) and two of Henry VIII’s was kept here, and
wives – Katherine Howard (1542) under Henry VIII
and Anne Boleyn (1536). (r.1509–47) the Royal
Armouries were
improved. James I
(r.1603–25) was the
last monarch to stay
( Traitors’
Gate in residence. All
The oak and iron coinage in Great
watergate in the Britain was minted
outer wall (above) in the Outer Ward of
was used to bring the Tower until 1810
many prisoners to when the Royal Mint
the Tower, and was established
became known nearby, on Tower Hill.
as Traitors’ Gate.
Left Bell Tower Centre Apartment in the Bloody Tower Right Beauchamp Tower
Tower Prisoners
Sites of
! Bishop of Durham
The first political prisoner to imprison-
5
be held in the White Tower was ment 6
Ralph de Flambard, Bishop of 7 1
Durham. Locked up by Henry l in 3
1100, he was seen as responsible 40 2
for the unpopular policies of
9 8
Henry’s predecessor, William ll.
Anne Boleyn and Katherine
@ Henry Vl
During the Wars of the Roses,
Howard, are buried in the Chapel
Royal of St Peter ad Vincula.
between the rival families of York
and Lancaster, Henry VI was kept
in Wakefield Tower for five years, ^ The Dudley Family
Lord Dudley and his four
until restored to power in 1470. brothers were imprisoned (before
their execution) in the Beauchamp
( John Gerard
He escaped from the Cradle
Tower with a fellow prisoner in
1597, using a rope strung over the
moat by an accomplice in a boat.
Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula
London’s Top 10
4 Queen Victoria’s Crown collection dates from 1661 when a new
5 Royal Sceptre set was made to replace those destroyed
6 Jewelled State Sword by Cromwell following the execution of
7 George V’s Crown Charles I in 1649. St Edward’s Crown was
8 The Sovereign’s Ring the first subsequent crown to be made,
9 The Sovereign’s Orb of pure gold, and is the oldest of the 12
0 The Sovereign’s Sceptre crowns here. Other coronation jewels on
display include a gold, jewel-studded orb,
made in 1661, and a sceptre containing
the 530-carat Star of Africa, the biggest cut
diamond in the world. The Sovereign’s
Ring, made for William IV, is sometimes Sovereign’s
called “the wedding ring of England”. Sceptre
Queen Elizabeth ll wearing the Imperial State Crown, coronation day, 2 June 1953
39
St Paul’s Cathedral $ Quire
The beautiful stalls
This is the great masterpiece of Sir Christopher and organ case in the
Quire are by Grinling
Wren, who rebuilt the City’s churches after the Gibbons. Handel and
Great Fire of 1666. Completed in 1708, it was Mendelssohn both
London’s Top 10
Top 10 Features
1 West Front and Towers
St Paul’s semi-circular 2 Dome
South Porch 3 Whispering Gallery
Food and drink in the 4 Quire
Crypt Café. 5 OBE Chapel
6 High Altar
The most popular 7 The Light of the World
service is the choral 8 Tijou Gates
evensong (usually at 9 Mosaics
5pm daily) when you
0 Moore’s Mother and Child
can hear the choir.
• St Paul’s Cathedral,
Ludgate Hill EC4
@ Dome
One of the
• Map R2 largest domes in the
• 020 7236 4128 world (above), it is 111 m (365
• www.stpauls.co.uk ft) high and weighs 65,000
• Cathedral: Open tonnes. The Golden Gallery at
8:30am–4pm Mon–Sat; the top, and the larger Stone
Galleries: open 9:30am– Gallery, both have great views.
4pm Mon–Sat
• Admission: adults
£12.50; children 6–16 £4
(under-6s free); seniors
! West Front
and Towers
£11.50; students £9.50; The imposing West
family £29.50; group Front is dominated by
rates available, call for two huge towers. The
details • Guided tours pineapples at their
at 10:45am, 11:15am,
1:30pm, 2pm (adults:
tops are symbols of
peace and prosperity. £ Whispering Gallery
Inside the dome is the
£3; concessions £2.50; The Great West Door famous Whispering Gallery.
under 16s £1) is 9 m (29 ft) high Words whispered against
and is used only for the wall can be heard on the
ceremonial occasions. opposite side of the gallery.
London’s Top 10
candlesticks are copies of 2
% OBE Chapel
At the eastern end
a 16th-century pair made
for Cardinal Wolsey.
of the crypt is a chapel
devoted to men and
women who received
the Order of the British
Empire, a military and
civil honour established
in 1917, and the 1
first to include Cathedral Floorplan
women.
) Moore’s
Mother and Child
The sculptor Henry Moore
is commemorated in
the crypt. This
piece (right)
is one of a
growing number
& The Light of the
World
of independent
works of art
This painting by the Pre- that have been
Raphaelite artist Holman introduced into
Hunt dates from c.1900. St Paul’s since
It shows Christ knocking the 1960s.
on a door that opens
from inside, meaning that
St Paul’s History
God can enter our lives
only if we invite Him in. The first known church
dedicated to St Paul
was built on this site
in AD 604. Made of
wood, it burned down
in 675 and a sub-
sequent church was
destroyed by Viking
invaders in 962. The
third church was built
in stone. Following
another fire in 1087, it
was rebuilt under the
Normans as a much
larger cathedral, with
stone walls and a
wooden roof. This was
* Tijou Gates
The French master ( Mosaics
Colourful mosaic
completed in 1300.
In 1666 Christopher
metal worker Jean Tijou ceilings were installed Wren’s plans to restore
designed these ornate in the Quire and Ambu- the building had just
wrought iron gates (detail latory (above) in the 19th been accepted when
above) in the North Quire century. They are made the Great Fire of
Aisle, along with the Whis- with irregular cubes of London burned the old
pering Gallery balcony and glass, set at angles so cathedral to the ground.
other cathedral metalwork. that they sparkle.
St Paul’s Monuments
8
@ Wellington’s Tomb
Britain’s great military leader
J M W Turner
Memorial
and prime minister, Arthur Wel- Crypt
lesly, 1st Duke of Wellington Floorplan
(1769–1852), lies in the crypt. He
also has a monument in the nave.
^ Churchill Memorial Screen
This screen commemorates
£ Nelson’s Tomb
Preserved in brandy and
Sir Winston Churchill (1874–1965)
who during the Blitz said “at all
brought home from Trafalgar, sea costs, St Paul’s must be saved”.
hero Admiral Lord Nelson (1758–
1805) is in the centre of the crypt.
& The Worshipful Company
of Masons Memorial
* Turner’s Tomb
The great landscape painter
JMW Turner (1775–1851) is
buried in the OBE chapel.
( American Memorial
Behind the High Altar, the
American Memorial Chapel’s roll
of honour lists the US service-
American Memorial, detail men killed while stationed in
Britain during World War II.
% Gallipoli Memorial
One of many war memorials
) Fire-Watchers Memorial
in the cathedral, this one is In the Nave, this remembers
dedicated to those who died those who saved the church from
in the 1915 Gallipoli campaign. destruction during the 1940 Blitz.
42
Top 10 Moments in
St Paul’s History
St Paul’s Role
1 Elizabeth II’s Golden in History
Jubilee (2002). St Paul’s belongs to the nation
London’s Top 10
2 Prince Charles’ and Lady and to London. It is run by a
Diana’s wedding (1981). Dean and Chapter of five priests.
3 Winston Churchill’s Annual services for the City guilds
funeral (1965). have taken place here for a
4 Martin Luther King Jr thousand years. One of the
preaches (1964). cathedral’s main functions is as
5 Festival of Britain a place of national mourning Wedding of Prince of
launched (1951). and celebration. In the 19th Wales, 501, St Paul’s
6 Cathedral bombed (1940). century, 13,000 people filled
7 Queen Victoria’s the cathedral for the funeral of the Duke of Wellington.
Diamond Jubilee (1897). Queen Victoria’s Jubilee was a spectacular occasion
8 Duke of Wellington’s held on the steps of the cathedral. The Prince of
funeral (1852). Wales and Lady Diana Spencer chose to be married
9 Nelson’s funeral (1806). at St Paul’s rather than the royal Westminster Abbey.
0 First service (1697). The decision helped to portray the couple as the
people’s prince and princess.
Nelson’s Funeral
Such was Admiral Nelson’s
popularity that he was
afforded a full state funeral
(left). His body was carried
up the Thames from
Greenwich Hospital to
St Paul’s by barge.
43
London’s Top 10
London’s Top 10
William Shakespeare (1564–
1616) as a London dramatist
was recorded in 1585.
@ Rubens Knighted
The Dutch painter Peter
Paul Rubens was knighted by
Charles I in 1629 after painting
the Banqueting House ceiling.
# Purcell’s Appointment
The greatest English com-
poser of his age, Henry Purcell
was appointed organist at
Bomb damage near St Paul’s Cathedral Westminster Abbey in 1679.
45
London’s Top 10
Left Carving, Westminster Abbey Centre Brompton Oratory interior Right Cherub, St Bride’s
Churches
% Temple Church
This circular church was built
in the 12th century for the Knights
Templar, a crusading order. Effigies
of the knights are embedded in
the floor. A chancel was added
later, and a reredos (screen),
St Martin-in-the-Fields designed by Christopher Wren.
The church was rebuilt in 1958.
! Westminster
See pp32–3.
Abbey d Inner Temple Lane EC4 • Map P2
• check www.templechurch.com for
opening times • Free
@ StSeePaul’s Cathedral
pp40–43.
£ StKnown
Martin-in-the-Fields
for its royal connec-
tions, St Martin’s is the only
church to have a royal box. There
has been a church on the site
since the 13th century, but the
handsome present building was
designed by James Gibbs in 1726.
Coffee shop in the crypt. d Trafalgar
Square WC2 • Map L4 • Open 8:30am– Gatehouse, St Bartholomew-the-Great
6pm Mon–Sat, services only Sun • Free
46
& Brompton Oratory
This very un-English,
Italianate church was established
by a Catholic convert, John Henry
Newman (1801–90). He introduced
London’s Top 10
England to the Oratory, a religious
institute of secular priests
founded in 16th-century Rome.
The building, designed by Herbert
Gribble, opened in 1884, with many
of its treasures imported from
Italy. d Brompton Road SW7 • Map C5 Italianate interior of Brompton Oratory
• Open 6:30am–8pm daily • Free
Street baker, Mr Rich, starting a
* The main Roman Catholic Westminster Cathedral trend. This is traditionally the
journalists’ church and memorial
church in England is in a fearless services are held here. d Fleet
Byzantine style, designed by John Street EC4 • Map Q2 • Open 8am–
Francis Bentley and completed in 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–6:30pm Sun
1903. It has an 83-m (273-ft) • Free
campanile, which can be climbed
for a great view of the city.
Mosaics and over 100 varieties ) All Souls
This distinctive building, with
of marble decorate the interior. a semi-circular portico and stiletto
d Victoria St SW1 • Map E5 • Open spire, was designed by John
8am–7pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7pm Sat & Nash, creator of Regent
Sun • Free Street. After the BBC
built their headquarters
( StThereBride’s
has been a church
next door, it became
the home of reli-
on this site since Roman gious broadcasts.
times. Sir Christopher Wren’s d Langham Place W1 •
fine church has a wonderful Map J1 • Open 9:30am–
tiered spire that was copied Memorial tablet 5:30pm Mon–Fri,
for a wedding cake by a Fleet at All Souls services only Sun • Free
+ $0 367( $' 5 '
< 5
.LOEXUQ
0
$'
1BSL 52
)LQVEXU\
$
., 1
1
9
6 + 25( 7& +
72
$/
6 *ŝ
6 &
3$
(
0DLGD . ( 8 52
5
5
2$ 66 (7
72
5(
',
9DOH '
67
2 /'
( '
5'
7 7( 5
*:
5 2 $' %ORRPVEXU\
1 + 2$
0DU\OHERQH
$5
2 1 (
< /(%
(5
$0 '
0$5
'
: ( 6 7: < $ 0 &LW\
&2
$ + 2 /%2 5 1
85
+ , * +
7
(
$7
7
675( (
36*
1RWWLQJ &RYHQW
)25' 1'
+2
+LOO 2; & $1
6RKR *DUGHQ 5$ 121
%,6
67 67
3
52$
'
( 5 0D\IDLU 3 J WF S 5I B N F T
$5
% $< 6 : $ 7
.
)ZEF 6RXWK
/
1BSL
:+
6W-DPHV
V %DQN
(
7
,FOTJOHUPO
((
,7 ( +$//
$'
67 5
(SFFO
:
(BSEFOT
$7
( 52
+
, '*(
1BSL 6RXWKZDUN
(5
%5
* +7 6
,*
/2
+
% 5, ' *
,
2
.1
*+
5'
.QLJKWVEULGJH
52
.HQVLQJWRQ (5
%2
:HVWPLQVWHU
:
NFT
72
1 ( : . ( 17 5 '
'
/52$
& 5 2 0 : (/ 9$
8; /'
2
/DPEHWK
5 IB
'
+$
.5 1
// .
$ 5 * 72
$' ' %5 (1
2$ ,'* 7
52
1 ,1
W FS
5 (5 52
3LPOLFR
$0
6 ' $'
(1
*ŝ &KHOVHD .HQQLQJWRQ
3J
3
/+
.
1
.,
)8
NJMFT
LN
47
London’s Top 10
Museums
with 145 astonishingly eclectic
galleries. Highlights include
the Medieval and Renaissance
Galleries with their remarkable
collection of treasures. The
museum also has displays of
jewellery, textiles, metalwork,
glass, paintings, prints and
sculpture, and boasts rooms
full of Indian and Far Eastern
treasures (see p119).
% Museum of London
This comprehensive museum
provides a detailed account of
Victoria and Albert Museum London life from prehistoric
times to the present day. It is
! British Museum
The oldest museum in the
particularly strong on Roman
Londinium, but also has a model
world, and one of London’s most recreating the Great Fire of
fascinating, contains treasures 1666 and a reconstruction of a
and artifacts from all over the Victorian street including several
world (see pp8–11). original shopfronts (see p136).
£ Science Museum
This exciting museum traces
spirational stories from Britain’s
seafaring past, it tells of the con-
centuries of scientific and tinuing effects the oceans still
technological develop- have on the world today.
ment, with impressive Admiral Nelson’s fatally
and educational displays pierced naval coat is
(see pp24–5). on display, the tragic
polar expeditions of
$ Victoria and
Albert Museum
explorers are recalled
and a state-of-the-art
This museum of simulator gives an idea of
decorative arts is one of Smiling Nun, what it is like to steer a
London’s great pleasures, Museum of London ship into port (see p147).
London’s Top 10
basement moves remorselessly
on, recording the world’s war
dead – a figure that has now
reached 100 million. Six million
of them are commemorated in Imperial War Museum
the Holocaust Exhibition. Other
displays include evocative re-
creations of World War I trench ( London
Museum
Transport
* Design Museum
Based in a clean white 1930s
are also interactive “KidZones”
for children (see p100).
building beside Tower Bridge, this
museum is the only one in Britain
devoted to 20th- and 21st-century ) V&A Museum
of Childhood
design. Regularly changing exhi- The V&A Museum in Bethnal
bitions feature the very best of Green has the largest collection
modern design, including of childhood-related objects in
both product and graphic the UK. The museum’s
design, fashion, furniture, array of toys, games,
architecture and engi- lavish dolls’ houses,
neering. d Butler’s model trains, furniture
Wharf SE1 • Map H4 and children’s clothing
• Open 10am–5:45pm daily dates from the 1600s
• Admission charge Austin Taxi, London to the present day
• www.designmuseum.org Transport Museum (see p154).
+$0
& ,
6W-RKQŝV 7 <
6KRUHGLWFK
0
52$
:RRG 3FHFOUT '
$, '
$'
3 67( $' 5 '
1BSL 52
)LQVEXU\
$
1
., 1
9$
6 + 25( &+
2 *ŝ
67
/
3
(
6 &
. (8
$5
0DLGD 5 52
2$ 66 (7
5(
',7
9DOH '
67
72
5'
(
2 /'
'*
7 7 5
$' %ORRPVEXU\
:
(1 2 $
(52
$5
%2 1 0DU\OHERQH
+$ '
( 5
< /(
0$ 5
0
'
$ < $ 0 &LW\
&2
: ( 67 : + + 2/
%25 1
85
+ , *
7
(
7 &
$7
5(( &RYHQW
' 67 + ($
36*
5 3 6, ' (
2;)2 *DUGHQ
6 +2
6RKR 1'
5$
67
% ,
2$'
0D\IDLU
3 J W F S 5I B N F T
3$
( 5 5
% $< 6 : $ 7
5.
% /$&.) 5 ,$5652
)ZEF 6RXWK
/
$1
1BSL %DQN
:+
6W-DPHVŝV 7
(
,FOTJOHUPO
,7( +$//
:
7 5(
'
(BSEFOT (SFFO
$7
( 52$
+ 6
(5
7 6 % 5 ,'
* ( 1BSL 6RXWKZDUN
/2
,*
*+ +
2
%5 , '*
,
.1
*+
5
2
28
.HQVLQJWRQ .QLJKWVEULGJH
$'
25
(5
:HVWPLQVWHU
%
:
72
IBNFT
1 ( : . ( 1 7 5 '
$'
/ 5 2 $'
& 5 2 0 : ( / 9$
8; /'
/DPEHWK
2
+$
5' 1
//% .
F S 5
5 . * 72
$' ' (1
2$ 5 ,'
7
52
5 *(
1,1
5 52
6 3LPOLFR
3JW
$0
1*
3$
&KHOVHD
/+
,
.
.
)8
NJMFT LN NP
Left The National Gallery Right Satan Smiting Job with Sore Boils by William Blake, Tate Britain
Art Galleries
! The National Gallery and
National Portrait Gallery $ Courtauld Gallery
From Fra Angelico to Van
Located adjacent to each other Gogh, this is a complete art
at the top of Trafalgar Square, course in one manageable gallery.
these comprehensive galleries The core of the collection is the
make up the core of Britain’s country’s finest Impressionist
art collection (see pp12–15). and Post-Impressionist works,
amassed by a textile magnate,
Samuel Courtauld (1876–1947).
Many of them are instantly
recognisable: Manet’s Bar at the
Folies- Bergère, Van Gogh’s Self
Portrait With Bandaged Ear,
Gauguin’s Te Rerioa and Manet’s
Déjeuner sur L’Herbe. Visit the
Courtauld café or Somerset
House’s fountain courtyard and
riverside terrace café for a drink
afterwards (see p99).
% Wallace Collection
This wonderful Victorian
mansion belonged to Sir Richard
Wallace (1818–90). In 1897, his
widow bequeathed the house
and their amazing art collection
to the nation. Covering two
Renoir’s At The Theatre, National Gallery floors, the 25 public rooms are
beautifully furnished with one
@ Tate Modern
Housed in a huge converted
of the best collections of French
18th-century pictures, porcelain
power station on the south and furniture in the
bank of the Thames, this world. The paintings are
exciting gallery covers rich and voluptuous –
modern art from 1900 to the notable works include
present day (see pp18–19). Nicolas Poussin’s A
Dance to the Music
£ Tate Britain
The other Tate gallery in
of Time and Frans
Hals’ The Laughing
London, focusing on work from Cavalier. There are
1500 to the present, has the English portraits by
best collection of British art The Laughing Cavalier by Gainsborough and
in the world (see pp20–21). Frans Hals, Wallace Collection Reynolds (see p129).
50
the crowds, and it is often
necessary to reserve a ticket in
advance. The traditional Summer
Exhibition, which anyone can
apply to enter, is also extremely
London’s Top 10
popular (see p113).
( Queen’s Gallery,
Buckingham Palace
Established in 1962 to display
works from the Royal Collection,
this fascinating gallery shows
paintings and other pieces from
the royal collection (see p26).
$'
+ 5
2/ 56
)BNQTUFBE /2 ,6 7 (
6
(1
Major contemporary
:
)FBUI (9
6
$<
$'
$'
+ 7 2 :15 '
+DPSVWHDG
2
5
1
'(
$0
. ( 1 7 , 6
),
&
1&
6 7 5 ((7
5 2 $ '
<2
&DPGHQ
: $<
3(5
'
have been known to spill
$5
$
.
2
52 5
$'
86 7 2 1
('
%ORRPVEXU\
$5
&LW\
(
become an outside
5'
$ 7 ( 5 0D\IDLU FT
$<6:
% IBN
3$
)ZEF
/
S
:+ ,
1BSL
$1
3 J WF
(SFFO
(
:
1BSL
$7
(
5/
• www.serpentinegallery.org
22
'
5
.HQVLQJWRQ :HVWPLQVWHU
9 $8
( / / 5 2 $'
$/
'
/%
.5
5 ,'
$' *(
$5
52
1 3
$'
52
ŝ6
72
*
,1 *
. , 2$ '
+
*5 2 6 9
( 1 2 5 5
NP
8/
11
)
. (
51
London’s Top 10
Famous Residents
! Sherlock Holmes
The famous but fictitious
detective created by Sir Arthur
Conan Doyle first appeared in
1891. He still gets regular fan
mail sent to 221b Baker Street,
which houses the Sherlock
Holmes Museum (see p130).
@ Charles Dickens
The great Victorian novelist
and social campaigner (1812–70)
lived in Doughty Street for two Sherlock Holmes, London’s famous detective
years from 1837. The house is his
only surviving London home, and
he thought it “a frightfully first- $ John Keats
The London-born Romantic
class family mansion, involving poet (1795–1821) lived in Hamp-
awful responsibilities” (see p108). stead from 1818 to 1820 before
leaving for Italy to try to cure his
£ Dr“When
Johnson
a man is tired of
fatal tuberculosis. After falling
in love with his neighbour’s
London, he is tired of life,” said daughter, Fanny Brawne, he
Dr Samuel Johnson (1709–84). He wrote his famous and beautiful
lived in this house from around Ode to a Nightingale in the
1748 to 1759 and much of his garden (see p141).
famous dictionary was compiled
here, with six copyists working
in the garrett. His companion % Sigmund Freud
The Viennese founder of
James Boswell reported on the psychoanalysis (1856–1939)
social comings and goings in the spent the last year of his life
house. d Dr Johnson’s House, 17 in a north London house. A
Gough Square EC4 • Map P2 • Open Jew, he had fled the Nazis,
11am–5pm Mon–Sat • Admission charge bringing his celebrated couch
with him (see p141).
^ Lord Leighton
Yorkshire-born Frederic
Leighton (1830–96) was the
most successful painter in
Victorian London and president
of the Royal Academy. He had
this exotic house built for him
Freud’s famous couch in 1866 (see p121).
London’s Top 10
1834. d Carlyle’s House, 24 Cheyne ! Wolfgang A Mozart
The German composer
Row SW3 • Map C6 • Open Apr–Oct: (1756–91) wrote his first
2pm–5pm Wed–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, Sun symphony, aged eight, while
& public hols • Admission charge at No. 180 Ebury Street.
) William Hogarth
The great painter of London
^ Mark Twain
The American humorist
(1835–1910) lived for a year
life (1697–1764, see pp20–21) was at No. 23 Tedworth Square.
used to the gritty life of the city
and called his house near Chiswick
“a little country box by the
& Mahatma Gandhi
The “father” of India’s
Thames”. d Hogarth’s House, Hogarth independence movement
(1869–1948) studied law in
Lane W4 • Check www.hounslow.info for the Inner Temple in 1889.
opening times • Closed Jan • Free
* Jimi Hendrix
The American guitarist
(1942–1970) stayed in central
London at No. 23 Brook Street.
( Henry James
The American writer
(1843–1916) lived in Bolton
Street, de Vere Gardens, and in
Cheyne Walk, where he died.
) Giuseppe Mazzini
From 1837 to 1849 the
Italian revolutionary and
patriot (1805–72) lived at
No. 183 Gower Street.
Richly decorated interior of Leighton House
53
London’s Top 10
Royal London
! Buckingham
See pp26–7
Palace
@ Hampton Court
The finest piece of Tudor
architecture in Britain, Hampton
Court was begun by Henry VIII’s
ally Cardinal Wolsey in 1514 and
later given to the king. It was en-
larged first by Henry and then by
William and Mary, who employed
Christopher Wren as architect.
Its many rooms include a huge Tudor gatehouse, St James’s Palace
kitchen, a Renaissance Picture
Gallery, the Chapel Royal and fine royal residence. Prince Charles
royal apartments. Set in 60 acres, has offices here (see p113).
the gardens, with their famous
maze, are as much an attraction
as the palace (see p147). % Kew Palace and Queen
Charlotte’s Cottage
The smallest royal palace, Kew
£ Kensington Palace
An intimate royal palace in
was built in 1631 and used as a
residence by George III and
Kensington Gardens, famous as Queen Charlotte. Nearby Queen
the home of Princess Diana, the Charlotte’s Cottage was used for
first sovereign residents here picnics and housing royal pets.
were William and Mary in 1689 The palace is set in Kew Gardens
and Queen Victoria was born (see p147). d Kew, Surrey • Palace:
here in 1837. Until mid-2012 the open Apr–Oct, call 0844 482 7799 for
State Apartments are the setting times; Cottage: open during the summer
for an enchanting, multi-sensory • www.hrp.org.uk
exhibition that reveals intriguing
tales of past residents. The
Orangery is delightful ^ Banqueting House
Built by Inigo Jones,
for coffee (see p119). this magnificent building
is particularly noted for
$ St James’s Palace
Although not open
its Rubens ceiling. It
was commissioned by
to the public, St James’s Charles I, who stepped
has a key role in royal from this room on to the
London. Its classic Tudor scaffold for his execution
style sets it in the reign in 1649. d Whitehall SW1
of Henry VIII, although it Ceiling detail, • Map L4 • Open 10am–5pm
served only briefly as a Banqueting House Mon–Sat • Admission charge
54
& Queen’s House
This delightful home in the
Top 10 Royals in
Everyday London Life
midst of Greenwich Park was the
first Palladian building by Inigo
Jones, and home to the wife of ! King Charles Spaniel
These were the favourite
London’s Top 10
Charles I. Beautifully restored to dogs of King Charles II. Today,
its 17th-century glory, it houses the Queen prefers corgis.
the National Maritime Museum’s
art collection. d Romney Road SE10 @ Queen Anne’s Gate
A delightful small West-
• Train to Greenwich; DLR Cutty Sark, minster street with a statue
Greenwich • Open 10am–5pm daily of the queen who gave her
name to a style of furniture.
* Royal Mews
See pp26–7. £ Regent’s Park
The Prince Regent, later
George IV, used John Nash
( Queen’s Chapel
This exquisite royal chapel is
for this ambitious urban plan.
) Clarence House
Designed by John Nash and
serves southern England.
( Windsor Knot
The stylish Duke of
Windsor, who abdicated the
throne in 1938, gave the
world a wide tie knot.
Left Colonnade at the ICA Centre Royal Court Theatre façade Right Performers at Sadler’s Wells
Theatre takes you to the heart of and bars. The centre also
London’s cultural life. Within the contains a library and convention
grey blocks of this innovative hall. The Guildhall School of Music
building, designed by Denys and Drama is nearby (see p135).
Lasdun in 1976, you can see
a musical, a classic or a new
play in one of its three theatres: $ London Coliseum
London’s other principal opera
the Olivier, the Lyttelton or the house presents excellent produc-
Cottesloe. Check for free shows tions sung in English by the
and exhibitions in the English National Opera.
foyer. Reduced price The theatre re-opened in
tickets are sold from 2004 following extensive
10am on the day of the restoration work. d St
performance. d South Bank Martin’s Lane WC2 • Map L3
SE1 • Map N4 • 020 7452 3000 • 0871 911 0200 • www.eno.org
£ Barbican Centre
Home of one of the % Queen
Elizabeth Hall
best music companies Part of the Southbank
in the world – the London Centre, Queen Elizabeth
Symphony Orchestra – Golden globe atop the Hall, along with the
the Barbican is the London Coliseum Purcell Room, Royal
City’s most important Festival Hall and the Hay-
arts complex. Theatre, cinema, ward Gallery, has a programme of
concerts, dance and exhibitions musical, arts and literary activities.
can all be seen here, and there d South Bank SE1 • Map N4 • 0871 663
are plenty of restaurants, cafés 25 01• www.southbankcentre.co.uk
London’s Top 10
stunning new building prides still used to make TV shows. The
itself on its community events café, bar and river terrace are a
as well as its international draw in themselves. d Crisp Road
dance shows (see p144). W6 • Tube Hammersmith • 020 8237 1111
( Riverside Studios
With a glorious location by
the Thames at Hammersmith
Bridge, this is a fascinating arts
and media centre. An eclectic
programme includes cinema, Performance, Royal Albert Hall
+ $03 67 ($' 5 '
9DOH 2/ '
'*
$' %ORRPVEXU\
( 5 2
:
(% 2 1
$5
< $
( 5
</
:$ 0 0 $5
'
0DU\OHERQH
7
(6
&LW\
:
&
7 +(
75(( $ 3 6 ,'
5 ' 6 &RYHQW (
2 ;
)2 '
1RWWLQJ *DUGHQ $1
675
3
: 22
+LOO 52$'
0D\IDLU
(5
$5
%$ <6 : $ 7 )ZEF
.
6RXWK
/
1BSL
'/ $1 (
$1
:+
%DQN
(7
(
,7( +$//
+ROODQG
75(
:$
(SFFO
+6
3DUN
7(
* (
7 6% 5 , '
1BSL
5/
,*
+
22
,* +
*+
5
:HVWPLQVWHU '
. 1
28
.HQVLQJWRQ
% 25
9$
2$ '
:
& 5 2 0 : ( / / 5 +$
;
//%
$5
'
+DPPHUVPLWK /DPEHWK
. 5
:,
. 5 ,'
$'
&
*(
5
52
3$
52 5 '
7 $/* $5 7 + 5 2 $' $'
6
21
ŝ
1* &KHOVHD
*7
,
'
.
1 ,1
* 5 2 69 52 $
( 1 2 5
(1
)XOKDP
.
.HQQLQJWRQ
NJMFT LN
@ 100 Club
Atmospheric jazz and blues Ronnie Scott’s jazz club
dive that stays open up to 2am.
This club’s heritage is legendary number of big name acts. d 9–17
– the Rolling Stones played here, Highgate Road NW5 • 020 7485 4080
as did the Sex Pistols and other • Tube Kentish Town
punk bands of the 1970s. Today it
also hosts Indie groups. Member-
ship is not required. d 100 Oxford % Brixton Academy
This is a great place to see
Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7636 0933 big names from across the music
spectrum. Although it holds 4,000,
£ Jazz Café
Top jazz and soul performers,
the hall retains an intimate, clubby
atmosphere with good views of
as well as great food make this a the performers from across the
popular venue. Best views are to auditorium. d 211 Stockwell Road
be had from the balcony tables. d 5 SW9 • 0844 477 2000 • Tube Brixton
Parkway NW1 • Map D1 • 020 7688 8899
& PizzaExpress
Jazz Club
Downstairs from the Pizza
Express restaurant is one of
London’s best jazz venues,
Koko, Camden where anything from swing,
58
blues and gospel classics to mod- Top 10 Nightclubs
ern fusion jazz can be heard. d 10
Dean Street W1 • Map 2K • 0845 602 7017 ! Fabric
The best dance venue in
town, arranged in three rooms
* Borderline filled with sound: 24-hour music
London’s Top 10
One of London’s best small licence. d 77a Charterhouse
clubs, Borderline has hosted Street EC1 • Map Q1
many international bands in its
basement. There’s at least one
different band every weekday
@ 333
This three-storey club
heaves to drum ‘n’ bass, hip
evening, playing a wide range of hop and funky soul. d 333 Old
music, from country to metal. Street, Hoxton EC1 • Map H2
d Orange Yard, off Manette Street W1
• Map L2 • 0844 847 2465
£ Volupté
Expect top cabaret at this
burlesque club. d 9 Norwich
( O2 arena & indigO2
The ill-fated Millennium Street EC4 • Tube Chancery Lane
Dome has been transformed into
the huge O2 arena, hosting the $ Madame Jo-Jo’s
Some of the best drag
biggest names around including acts in town. d 8–10 Brewer
the Rolling Stones and Justin Street W1 • Map K3
Timberlake. The indigO2 offers a
more intimate setting, with a % Cargo
One of the best places for
capacity of 2,350. Taking the cutting-edge music. d 83
Thames Clipper along the river is Rivington Street EC2 • Map H2
all part of the fun. d Millennium
Way, North Greenwich SE10 • Tube North ^ Plastic People
Small but perfectly formed
Greenwich • 0844 856 0202
basement club with a top
sound system. d 147–149
Curtain Road EC2 • Map H2
* Café de Paris
Popular disco with a mix
of DJs and a restaurant. d 3
Coventry Street W1 • Map K3
Live music at the Troubadour
( Heaven
London’s best-known gay
@ The Mousetrap
Agatha Christie’s murder
mystery, The Mousetrap, has
been playing in London since
1952, and has been seen by
100 million people. A few bits
of the original set remain. Chris-
tie herself predicted a run of
only six months, and in 1955,
after the 1,000th performance,
a critic wrote: “The biggest
mystery of the evening is
why this play has run so long.”
d St Martin’s Theatre, West Street WC2
• Map L3 • 08444 991 515 Cast of Phantom of the Opera
London’s Top 10
moves in this raunchy version of
an old favourite. Great fun.
d Aldwych Theatre WC2 • Map L4
• 0844 847 2330
( Priscilla
the Desert
Queen of
7
675((
;)25'
$5,
2
'
8
5
1*
5
<
$1
/
(
0 2 1 0 2 87 +675 ( ( 7
+ROERUQ
&5
(1
26
'(
//
8(
6RKR
5(
6
6
$&
75
(1
((
7 %2
$9
6
7
:
1
5
6
72
03
:
*
2$
7
1
&2
$5 '
/2
'
'
2/
:
28
<
(/
$PWFOU
85
5
/,1
6% (BSEFO
67
*7
21
7(
67
$)
6+
-FJDFTUFS &RYHQW
4RVBSF *DUGHQ
670$57,1ŝ6/ $1 (
/(,&(67(5 1'
1JDDBEJMMZ 5$
$JSDVT 648$5( 67
'
+$
1
5$
<0
67
17
$5
7JDUPSJB
0(
.(
&NCBOLNFOU
1.
5(
7
%$
(BSEFOT
*(
(0
$6 7 $IBSJOH
(
17
$ //
,$
0 $SPTT
5
/ / 75$)$/*$5
67
72
3$
9 ,&
648$5(
NP
ZBSET NFUSFT
Pubs
! The Lamb and Flag
This old-world establishment
tucked up an alley looks much as
it did in Charles Dickens’ day. In
the heart of Covent Garden, it can
get crowded – during the summer
drinkers spill outside into the
quiet alley. The 17th-century poet
John Dryden was severely Dog and Duck, Soho
beaten up outside the pub which
was known as The Bucket of
Blood because of the bareknuckle £ YeIn anOldealleyCheshire Cheese
off Fleet Street,
fights held here (see p104). this warren of rooms still seems
as if it should have sawdust on
$ George Inn
Built in 1676, this is the only
galleried coaching inn left in
London, and was taken over by
the National Trust in 1937. You
can enjoy excellent beers in its
myriad old rooms, with lattice
windows and wooden beams, or
in the large courtyard (see p86).
% Jerusalem Tavern
A delightful little pub with
cubicles, a small bar and little
more than the 18th-century
coffee shop it once was. People
come here to try out the full range
of a rare but popular brewery, St
Peter’s in Suffolk. Light meals
are served at lunchtime. d 55
Lamb and Flag, Covent Garden Britton Street EC1 • Map G2
London’s Top 10
the 18th-century highwayman food. Portions are large and
Dick Turpin drank here, along inexpensive, and can be washed
with literary luminaries Keats, down with a good selection of
Shelley and Byron (see p145). beer and wine (see p76). d 159
Farringdon Road EC1 • Tube Farringdon
* The Grapes
Built in the 1720s, with
and Dylan Thomas. It is now well
known for its refreshing Breton
wooden floors and panelling, cider and fine wines. d 49 Dean
The Grapes has survived the Street W1 • Map L3
modern development of Dock-
lands, retaining its traditional
charm and informal atmosphere.
The back bar has an open fire
for the winter months and a
terrace by the Thames for the
summer. The excellent upstairs
restaurant is renowned for its
fish dishes. d 76 Narrow Street E14
• DLR Westferry Jerusalem Tavern, City
+
& , 7
< 5 2
. , 1 $ '
NP
$0 3 67( $' 52 $'
* ŝ6
6KRUHGLWFK
&5 2 6 6
' )LQVEXU\
5 2$
3FHFOUT 21
6 7 52
1BSL
( 8 $'
) ( 7
$5 5(
67
7 2
/'
5,
2
1*
7 7(
'2
1+
%ORRPVEXU\
1
$0
&
52 $
2
85
'
7
/ % 2 51
52
+ + 2
0DU\OHERQH + , *
$'
&LW\
7
(
675( (
$7
&+
25' ( $3 6
8(
3 6*
75((7
2;) 6RKR /((
76 ,' (
(1
6+ 2
)
$9
%,
<
85 &RYHQW
6%
1' NP
)7(
*DUGHQ 5$
N F T
67 F S 5I B
+$
6
3JW
3
0D\IDLU
$5
6RXWK%DQN
/
/<
$1
/
' ,
(
7
&$
:+ ,7
6
6RXWKZDUN
: $
,&
,*+
5 '
3 ( 5/
++
7
( +$/ /
4U+BNFT
'*(
22
8*
(SFFO 1BSL
5'
(5% 5,
52
1BSL
%2
72:
NJMFT LN
! Liberty
This handsome, half-timbered
$ Harvey Nichols
building dates from 1925 and its Almost a parody of itself,
fine wood-floored and panelled “Harvey Nicks” is where the
interior is part of the shopping glamorous shop. There’s wall-
experience there. Long associated to-wall designer labels, an
with the Arts and Crafts move- extravagant perfume and beauty
ment, it employed artists such department and stylish home-
as William Morris to design its ware. The fifth floor is for
fabrics. Great for its own Liberty consuming, with a food hall,
floral fabrics, home furnishings, sushi bar and the to-be-seen-in
men’s and women’s fashions and Fifth Floor restaurant (see p123).
lovely gifts (see p110).
London’s Top 10
music. The market is every Friday,
which is quieter and has fewer
stalls, and Saturday (see p120).
) Westfield
Europe’s largest inner city
shopping centre mixes high
fashion with overseas brands and
luxury labels (housed in the
boutique-style setting, The
Village). Also has a 14-screen
Camden’s indoor market cinema. d Ariel Way W12
+$ 03 67 ($'5 '
6W-RKQŝV
:RRG 3FHFOUT '
NP 2$
1BSL
5
21
67
(8
0DLGD
727
(
9DOH
'*
7(
%ORRPVEXU\
:
1+
$5
(5
2$'
$0
1( 5
&2
2$
85
:
0DU\OHERQH
7
( 6 7 : $< $ 0
52
$'
3DGGLQJWRQ
6
(1
9 (
(7
5'
32
67 5 (
*$
$
5
5'
;
6RKR
572
6(
<
2
2; )
86
85
%(/
6
(*
6% &RYHQW
7(
1RWWLQJ
/2
$)
(1
52 *DUGHQ
6+
+LOO
76
$' 1'
3$
52 $' 0D\IDLU 5$
7
(5 67
% $< 6 : $ 7
5.
/
)ZEF
$1
FT
1BSL
(
/<
BN
,FOTJOHUPO ,/ 6W-DPHV
V
+ROODQG
$'
3 J WF S 5 I
:HVWPLQVWHU
5
.QLJKWVEULGJH
21
.HQVLQJWRQ 37
20
%5
NJMFT LN
65
London’s Top 10
London’s Top 10
accompanying firework extrava- championships. d All England
Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club,
ganzas. Children make dummy
Wimbledon • Jun/Jul
Guys and ask for pennies to pay
for their little arsenals. d 5 Nov
@ London Marathon
26.2-mile (42-km) road
race from Greenwich Park to
* Chinese New Year
Chinatown (see p89) is taken The Mall. d Apr
over by dancing dragons breathing
fire during this vibrant, colourful # Friends
Trophy
Provident
festival. Food and craft stalls are The climax of the cricket
season. d Lord’s NW8 • Jun
authentically oriental. d Soho W1
• Map L3 • Late Jan–early Feb
$ Oxford and
Cambridge Boat Race
( BFI London Film Festival
Scores of international films
The two universities’ annual
rowing race covers some 6.5
km (4 miles) on the Thames.
are shown in this two-week
d Putney to Mortlake • Mar
festival when cinemas, including
the National Film Theatre, reduce
prices. A booth is set up in % The London Inter-
national Horse Show
Leicester Square to take bookings Family fun at this Christmas
show. d Olympia W8 • Dec
and distribute programmes.
d West End • Nov
^ Varsity Match
The Oxford-Cambridge
rugby union duel. dTwicken-
) Great British Beer Festival
Organized by the Campaign ham Rugby Ground • Dec
for Real Ale (CAMRA), this annual
festival in a major London & Head of the River Race
A day-long event in which
exhibition hall is a chance to some 400 rowing boats
sample the best beers and ciders struggle for supremacy.
produced in Britain. d Earls Court d Mortlake to Putney • Mar
SW5 • Aug • Admission charge
* Six Nations Rugby
Annual rugby union contest
with England, France, Ireland,
Italy, Scotland and Wales.
d Twickenham Rugby Ground
• Feb/Mar/Apr
( Royal Ascot
All London Society goes
to the races in top hats and
other glamorous creations.
d Ascot, Berkshire • Jun
) Doggett’s Coat
and Badge Wager
Guildsmen from the Company
of Watermen compete in a
single sculls race. d London
Bridge to Chelsea Bridge • Jul
Lord Mayor’s Show fireworks
67
London’s Top 10
Children’s London
! Science Museum
See pp24–5. $ London Zoo
There’s a full day out to be
had in this 36-acre zoo. Home of
£ Madame Tussaud’s
One of London’s
role in conservation and
research work. Its
most popular attrac- enclosures have won
tions, this is where you awards, such as the
can see everyone from aviary designed by Lord
Arnold Schwarzenegger Snowdon. The Meet the
to the Queen. A Spirit Monkeys enclosure
of London ride takes provides a rainforest
you on a whistle-stop habitat for free-roaming
tour of the city’s monkeys and other
history. The famous wildlife (see p129).
Chamber of Horrors Waxwork Royalty,
puts you face-to-face
with London’s most
Madame Tussaud’s
% Sea Life London
Aquarium
infamous criminals and has the Located on London’s South Bank,
very guillotine that beheaded the aquarium is home to thou-
Queen Marie Antoinette in the sands of marine creatures. A
French Revolution. Other sections journey along the Great Ocean
of the exhibition include Premiere Conveyor Belt shows them in all
Night, which is devoted to the their glory. Crocodiles, green
giants of the entertainment world. turtles and zebra sharks are
Get there early to avoid waiting among the sea life. For interactive
in long lines (see p129). fun, Eco Pirates can climb aboard
the Good Ship SOS (see p84).
^ London Trocadero
The Trocadero entertain-
ment complex in the heart of
the West End is a magnet for
children. Aside from its shops,
restaurants and cinema, a
Ripley’s Believe It or Not!, a
bowling alley and a bewildering
array of hi-tech video games
and simulators that will keep
them occupied for hours
Sharks, Sea Life London Aquarium (see p91).
68
& V&A Museum of
Childhood
Spend the day at this East End
museum, which has one of the
largest toy collections in the
London’s Top 10
world, including dolls,
teddies, puppets, games
and children’s costumes.
Activities are organized
on weekends and during
school holidays (see p154).
* Coram’s Fields
No adults admitted with- Doll’s house, Museum of Childhood
out a child, says the sign on the
gate to this 7-acre park dedicated
to small children. There’s a ) London Dungeon
The scariest experience in
paddling pool, play areas and a town combines history and
city farm with a pets corner and horror to celebrate an “orgy of
grazing farm animals. d 93 Guilford grisly entertainment”, with death,
Street WC1 • Map F2 • Open daily • Free torture and violence at every turn.
Follow in the bloody footsteps of
( Battersea Park
This large south London park
the Victorian serial killer Jack the
Ripper, witness medieval murders,
is ideal for children. There are the 17th-century Fire of London,
colourful gardens, an adventure or go to your own execution on
playground, boating Judgment Day. Not for
lake, deer enclosure the faint-hearted. d 28/
and a children’s zoo 34 Tooley Street, SE1 • Map
(see p150). d Albert H4 • Opening times vary.
Bridge Road SW11 • Map For more information on
D6 • Zoo: Open Easter to times please check their
October, and weekends in Entrance sign, website www.thedungeons.
Winter, Admission charge London Dungeon com • Admission charge
&DPGHQ ,VOLQJWRQ
6W-RKQŝV
+ $03 67( $' 5 '
5 2
3FHFOUT
+
$ '
$, '
)LQVEXU\
'
$
1BSL 2$
9$
5
1
3$
/
. 2
(
67
5
5 7
0DLGD 2$ (8 5(( %HWKQDO
' 67
(
2 /' *UHHQ
'*
9DOH
5 2$' %ORRPVEXU\
:
1 ( ' 5 2$ '
$5
5<
$ <$
0 0$ &LW\ 0
'
:( 6 7 : 6WHSQH\
(
5 $1
67
%,6
52 $
' 0D\IDLU
3 J W F S 5 I B N F T
3$
7 (5
%$ < 6 : $ )ZEF
5.
6RXWK
/
1BSL 6W-DPHVŝV
$1
%DQN
(7
,FOTJOHUPO
'
(
75 (
52$
:
(BSEFOT (SFFO
+6
$7
(5
1BSL
,*
%5 ,' *(
+
/2
.QLJKWVEULGJH
2
:HVWPLQVWHU
28
5
%25
5'
%HUPRQGVH\
(
2:
1 ( :. ( 17 5' 7
'
& 5 2 0 : (/ / 5 9$ /DPEHWK
'
8;
.5
' +$
.HQVLQJWRQ 2$ ' //
5
% 5
3$
$ 2
,'* /'
5
2
21
5
$0
(5
ŝ6
*7
&KHOVHD .
/+
'
1* (1
1 ,1
)8
. ,
'
7
*526 9 5 2 $ F T
( 1 2 5
(1
52
0 ( 17 3 JW FS 5I BN
.
$ 1. .HQQLQJWRQ $'
6 ( $ (1 %
& +( /
#BUUFSTFB
1BSL %DWWHUVHD
NJMFT LN
69
London’s Top 10
River Sights
! Lambeth Palace
The Archbishop of
ring for his hot water like a gent-
leman. The hotel reopened in
Canterbury’s official 2010 after a multi-million-
London residence is a pound restoration. d
famous riverside land- Strand WC2 • Map M3
mark. Part of the palace
dates from the 13th
century, but it is the $ Millennium Bridge
This stunning,
red-brick Tudor Gate- blade-like suspension
house (1490), that gives bridge links Tate Modern
the palace a distinctive on Bankside with St
appearance. d Lambeth Paul’s and the City
Palace Road SE1 • Map F5 Tudor gatehouse, opposite. Unfortunately,
• Closed to the public Lambeth Palace this modern footbridge
suffered from excessive
@ Houses of Parliament
See pp34–5.
movement when it first opened in
2000. It has since been fixed and
is a delightful and apt approach
£ Savoy Hotel
London’s first luxury hotel
to Tate Modern. d Map R3
^ HMS Belfast
The last of the big-gun
armoured ships, HMS
Belfast was built in 1938
and saw active service in
World War II and Korea. In
1971 she was saved for
Rear of the Savoy Hotel, overlooking the Thames the nation as an example
London’s Top 10
get an idea of what life must have
been like on board. d Morgan’s Lane,
Tooley Street SE1 • Map H4 • Open
Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb:
10am–5pm daily • Admission charge
( $36 5&,$
,' ( /52$' 7RZQ
*DUGHQ
811 ( / $ 3
1'
67
5$
6RXWK
35
%DQN FT
6LOYHUWRZQ
67
3J
N
(5 '
*+
WF
IB S
:$
3JWF
S 5 5
%/
+,
7(
IB
% 5, '*
5RWKHUKLWKH
$&
*+
5/
NF
22
T
.:
8
%HUPRQGVH\
52
(5
$/
5'
%2
7
/
2:
0LOOZDOO 81
7 1(
/ $
33
$'
$'
5 2 2 1
/DPEHWK 2 5
52
/'
,&+
5 . *7
2/:
3$ ,1
.
:2
1 1
(1 &KDUOWRQ
$
7 'HSWIRUG
. (
'
52 *UHHQZLFK
0
5
&$
0%
(5
:(
(SFFOXJDI
1HZ&URVV
1BSL
1 '6
//1
(:
2$'
6+ 2 2 7 ( 5 6 + , / / 5
:$
5 ' 2$ '
3 ( & . + $ 0 5
NJMFT LN
71
London’s Top 10
Literary London
! Samuel Pepys
The extraordinary Diary of
Samuel Pepys (1633–1703) begins
on New Year’s Day, 1660 and
ends on May 31, 1669. He vividly
describes contemporary life, the
Plague and Great Fire, and an
attack on London by the Dutch.
The work was written in short-
hand and only deciphered in 1825.
Peter Ackroyd
@ Dr Johnson
Samuel Johnson (1709–84)
$ Oscar Wilde
was a towering literary figure Dublin-born Wilde (1854–
who presided over gatherings in 1900) dazzled London audiences
pubs, coffee houses and literary with his plays, and society with
clubs, as well as in his own his wit. He fell from grace when
home (see p52), and had he was convicted of homosexual
opinions on everything. His activity. His plays, such as Lady
satirical poem, London (1738), Windermere’s Fan (1892) and
attacked poverty in the city and The Importance of Being Earnest
his parliamentary sketches and (1895) are frequently revived.
dictionary made him famous.
% Virginia Woolf
Woolf (1882–1941) and her
sister Vanessa Bell lived in Gordon
Square, where the influential
pre-war Bloomsbury Group grew
from social gatherings. She
developed an impressionistic
stream of consciousness in novels
such as Mrs Dalloway (1925) and
Engraving of Dr Johnson To The Lighthouse (1927).
£ Geoffrey Chaucer
Chaucer (1343–1400) was a ^ John Betjeman
A devoted Londoner, with a
diplomat and son of a London fine disdain for bureaucracy, medi-
vintner. His Canterbury Tales is a ocrity and hideous architecture,
classic piece of English literature, Betjeman (1906–84) was made
and follows a group of pilgrims Poet Laureate in 1972. His poems
travelling from Southwark to are full of gentle wit and humour
Canterbury. In 17,000 lines the and he remains one of Britain’s
characters tell their rollicking tales. favourite poets.
72
& Colin MacInnes
MacInnes (1914–76) docu-
Top 10 London Songs
mented the teenage and black ! London’s Burning
Commemorating the Great
immigrant culture in Notting Hill in Fire of 1666, this is sung in a
the 1950s. City of Spades (1957) round, a device popular since
London’s Top 10
and Absolute Beginners (1959) Elizabethan days.
are set among the coffee bars,
jazz clubs, drink and drugs scene @ London Bridge is
Falling Down
at a time of great unrest. A traditional song about old
London Bridge, which fell
* Martin Amis
Darling of the London literary
into disrepair.
) Peter Ackroyd
The biographer of Charles
sentimental song that
celebrates the city.
Dickens, Ackroyd (b.1949) turned
to fiction to examine the lives of & England Swings
This hit US song came out
other Londoners, such as the after a 1966 story in Time
architect Nicholas Hawksmoor and magazine announced the
Oscar Wilde. Most ambitiously he arrival of “Swinging London”.
wrote London: a Biography (2000).
* Waterloo Sunset
Pop groups don’t usually
celebrate London, or Britain,
but this 1967 record by The
Kinks was an exception.
) Burlington Bertie
A music-hall song about
the life of a Mayfair gentle-
man in Edwardian London.
Zadie Smith
London on Foot
! Thames Path, South Bank
Start by the London Eye and
walk along the South Bank down-
stream to London Bridge and the
Design Museum beyond Butler’s
Wharf. This stretch of the Thames
Path has enough to distract you
all day. d South Bank • Map N5
@ Regent’s Canal
It’s possible to walk along
the whole 14-km (8.5-mile) canal View over London from Hampstead Heath
from Paddington to Limehouse.
The most accessible part lies
between Camden Lock and $ Hampstead Heath
This green grandstand
Regent’s Park, where grand overlooking the city covers 8 sq
houses back on to the water. km (3 sq miles) and is a rural mix
Further on, in Little Venice, of meadows, woods, lakes and
moored “narrowboats” are ponds for both swimming and
owned by the wealthy (see p130). fishing. Head off in any direction,
and make the Spaniards Inn (see
p145) or Kenwood House a
stopping-off point (see p141).
£ Richmond
Richmond has a lovely aspect
Gallery (see p51), to cafés, foun-
tains and flower gardens (see
on the River Thames. Apart from p28). d Hyde Park W2 • Map C4
its royal park (see p29) there is a • Open 5am–midnight daily
lot to see and do, with riverside
pubs and cafés, and boats to rent.
It’s a half-hour walk along the ^ Battersea Park
This lively park is not just
towpath to the 17th-century Ham for children (see p69). It has a
House, owned by the National pleasant riverside promenade
Trust. In summer you can take a beside a Buddhist Peace Pagoda,
ferry across to Marble Hill House lakeside walks and the Festival
in Twickenham (see p148). Gardens (see p150).
74
& Wimbledon Common
It is easy to get lost in this
Top 10 Outdoor
Activities
wild public space. Start by the
Windmill and go down to
Queens Mere Pond or stride out
! Rowing
Parks with rowing lakes
London’s Top 10
include Hyde Park, Regent’s
along the cinder horse track to the Park and Battersea Park.
pine copse of Caesar’s Camp, an
old Iron Age hill fort (see p150).
@ Ice Skating
Indoors at the Leisure Box
in Queensway. Outdoor winter
* Blackheath
This treeless expanse, en- rinks include Broadgate,
Somerset House and the
joyed by kite flyers, lies behind Natural History Museum.
Greenwich Park (see p29). Donkey
rides are available, and on the
far side is Blackheath Village. £ Kite Flying
Hampstead Heath, Prim-
d Blackheath SE3 • Train to Blackheath rose Hill and Blackheath are
the best places to get a lift.
( WWT London
Wetland Centre $ Swimming
There are a number of
London’s major bird sanctuary public indoor pools. d The
covers 105 acres in four disused Oasis, Endell Street WC2 •
Victorian reservoirs. It has trails, a Porchester Centre, Queensway
W2 •Chelsea Sports Centre,
visitor centre and an observatory Chelsea Manor St SW3.
where you can spot some of the
180 species which have been
recorded here (see p150). % Nature Watching
London’s open spaces and
woodlands are full of plants
and wildlife to discover.
) Highgate Cemetery
Filled with grand tombs,
many of the rich and famous, ^ Skateboarding
Many parks have skate-
this is the best of London’s board facilities. The South
cemeteries. The living have to Bank’s (see p83) concrete
pay to get in, too, and the cem- spaces have a regular clientele.
etery is divided into eastern and
western halves, the latter visitable & Cycling
Rent bikes from On Your
only with a tour (see p143). Bike in London Bridge (020
7378 6669) and The London
Bicycle Tour Company in
Gabriel’s Wharf (020 7928 6838).
* Tennis
For indoors try Islington
Tennis Centre, Market Rd N7.
Outdoors, Holland Park, Batter-
sea Park or Regent’s Park.
( Skating
Wide paths make Hyde
Park the most popular choice.
) Horse Riding
The best place is the
stables at Hyde Park. d 63
Bathurst Mews W2.
Faded grandeur, Highgate Cemetery
@ Clarke’s
A steady favourite since it
weeks in advance. The original
idea here is that there are no
opened in 1984, the food here is starter or main courses. Dishes
wonderfully fresh, and basically are categorised under half a
Mediterranean, with roast and dozen themed headings, and you
baked dishes to the fore. The put together three of four to
Sally Clarke set menus are the make a meal. Each one is a rare
focal point, but there is also a daily combination (see p139).
changing selection of à la carte
dishes. The wine list favours
California (see p125). % L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Michelin-starred Robuchon
brings his unbeatable gourmet
dining experience to London in
this Japanese-inspired restaurant.
Lobster ravioli and potato purée
are a couple of highlights. The
bar on the third floor is a chic
place for a drink (see p105).
^ Hakkasan
Alan Yau, the man behind
Rasa Samudra, Fitzrovia the successful Wagamama chain,
created this seriously stylish
£ Rasa Samudra
Indian curries are almost a
dining experience. Michelin-
starred oriental-inspired food,
national dish in Britain, but this is such as sautéed sweet ginger
quite different from the norm. The and pineapple roasted duck, with
cooking is stunning, and first- dim sum specialities, is served in
timers will need talking through luxurious surroundings designed
the unusual menu, which includes by Christian Liaigre. The cocktails
delicious fish dishes (see p111). are sublime (see p111).
76
& Orrery
Sir Terence Conran is London’s
Top 10 Places to
Eat with a View
most prominent restaurateur.
This intimate restaurant is at the
peak of perfection and prices.
! Oxo Tower
Terrific river views from this
London’s Top 10
South Bank landmark (see p87).
The menu changes regularly,
and has a distinctly French
bias – including the best fish, @ Vertigo 42
On the 42nd floor of the
beef and game (see p133). City’s tallest skyscraper.
d Tower 42, Old Broad Street
EC2 • Map H3 • 020 7877 7842
* Rules
London’s oldest restaurant
(1798), Rules has a wonderful, £ Le Pont de la Tour
Modern French cuisine
genuine Belle Epoque atmos- overlooking Tower Bridge.
phere, and remains a great d 36d Shad Thames SE1
British institution, not resting • Map H4 • 020 7403 8403
on its laurels. It specializes
mainly in game but is also
known for its oysters, pies and
$ Tate Modern
Restaurant: Level 7
Panoramic river views and
traditional puddings (see p105). great food. d Bankside SE1
• Map R4 • 020 7887 8888
( Barrafina
One of the coolest tapas
% Portrait Restaurant
bars around, Barrafina uses top- Views over Trafalgar Square
quality ingredients to excellent and Whitehall. d National Por-
trait Gallery, St Martin’s Place
effect. Sit at the bar with a glass WC2 • Map L4 • 020 7312 2490
of fino or a small Cruzcampo and
watch the experts at work.
Expect to queue (see p95). ^ Blue Print Café
A restaurant with a spec-
tacular view of London Bridge.
d Design Museum, Shad Thames
) A great restaurant near
St John
SE1 • Map H4 • 020 7378 7031
Smithfield meat market, this is
in a converted smokehouse. It & Skylon
One of the finest river views
serves a delicious range of high- in town. d Royal Festival Hall
quality British cooking, and has SE1 • Map N4 • 020 7654 7800
its own bakery. Try the amazing
Eccles cakes with Lancashire * Swan At The Globe
Look over to the City
cheese. Bar-menu snacks are not through mullioned windows.
expensive (see pp139, 155, 157). d New Globe Walk SE1
• Map G4 • 020 7928 9444
) Coq d’Argent
Fine City sights from this
rooftop garden bar and French
restaurant. d 1 Poultry EC2
• Map G3 • 020 7395 5000
Orrery, Marylebone
For more restaurants See pp87, 95, 105, 111, 117, 125, 133, 77
139, 145, 151, 157
AROUND
TOWN
Westminster, the South
Bank & Southwark
LONDON’S TOP 10
80–87
$SPTT
3OUTHŽ"ANK
%$
5 2 $ '
(0
&NCBOLNFOU &NCBOLNFOU
7
1 2 5((
1JFS
57+ 8 0 67
3OUTHWARK
% 5 , ' * (
$9 ( 18 %(5/$1' 6 -POEPO
5' 28
:
( 7+
)2 : $ #SJEHF
$0
'FTUJWBM
+,7
5 ,$
5.
1JFS 67 675
((7
7
(+$/
9 , & 72
((
8BUFSMPP 8BUFSMPP
75
+ :$5 .
&BTU
6
/
4PVUIXBSL 8 1 , 2 1 6 75 ( ( 7
+
8BUFSMPP 7
.JMMFOOJVN1JFS &8
(
$'
+ ,*
3$ 5/,$ 0 ( 1767
7+ 7
62 8
:
52
8BUFSMPP
$7
.
(5
8FTUNJOTUFS
< 25
/2
8FTUNJOTUFS
2$ '
*+
#PSPVHI
2
.JMMFOOJVN1JFS 28
25
* 5
5
3$5/,$0(17
5
2$
,6
648$5( :HVWPLQVWHU
($
'
52$'
$< /
:
7'
%ULGJH (6
%
70 -BNCFUI
29
5'
$<
,1 % 25 28 *+
/PSUI
(:
67(
(5
&(
T
. ( 1
6
3JWFS 5I BNF
/$
& $
/2
75
3$ ' &MFQIBOU
+
2$
1
+
721
((
5
'2
$5
7 + 67
$BTUMF
1,1
7
7
3(
7ESTMINSTER 0 %(
1
%(
, 1*
* (
/ $
5
52
*72
2
/ $0
0, //%$1
"SDICJTIPQT 5*
52
0$ 5 6 +$ 0
$'
1 (:
1BSL (ŝ6
$'
' 5
1 5 '
2$ 2$
5 '
(7 + 1 ( : . (
1752$'
.
0%
/$
% 8 7 76
67 5 ( (
+ 25 6 ( ) ( 5 5<52$'
&MFQIBOU
.(11,1*72152$'
/DPEHWK $BTUMF
( 17
%ULGJH
1
1.0
7
1.
72
:$/
,AMBETH
, 1*
(0 %$
:2
(:
/%$
57+
% ( 57
1
67
1
* 72
,3
,/
1 ,1
5
, 6/
(1 1 (
0
. / $
1
2$
ZBSET
+
'
80 Preceding pages: View from London Eye towards Big Ben and
Westminster Abbey
£ London Eye
The world’s tallest
cantilevered observational wheel
offers amazing views of the city.
While waiting for a flight, visit
$ Houses of Parliament
The ancient Palace of
Westminster is the seat of the
two Houses of Parliament – the
Lords and the Commons. A
Union flag flies on the Victoria
Tower when the Commons is in
View down Whitehall towards Big Ben session. Night sittings are indi-
cated by a light on the Clock
! Westminster Abbey
London’s most venerable
Tower – the tower that houses
Big Ben, the 14-ton bell whose
and most beautiful church, the hourly chimes are recognized
scene of coronations and royal around the world (see pp34–5).
weddings and the resting place
of monarchs (see pp32–3).
% Tate Britain
The best of British art is held
@ Tate Modern
One of the world’s great
at the Tate and works range from
1500 to the present. Look down-
contemporary art galleries. A boat stream to see the home of British
service connects Tate Britain and Intelligence (MI5). This large
Tate Modern. It leaves from building, known as Thames
Bankside Pier outside Tate Modern House, is built inside a bug-proof
every 20 minutes (see pp18–19). “Faraday cage” (see pp20–21).
View from London Eye towards Big Ben and Westminster Abbey
* Southbank Centre
The most accessible arts
centre in London still has the air
of friendly, egalitarian optimism
that brought it into life in the
1950s and 60s. The Royal Festival
Hall and the Queen Elizabeth
No. 10 Downing Street Hall have diverse programmes,
while the Hayward Gallery is a
82
A Day By the River
Morning
Start at Waterloo with break-
fast and a self-guided tour
83
Around Town – Westminster, the South Bank & Southwark
£ Duck Tours
This unique guided tour takes
( Young Vic Theatre
in several sights by road before This famous, independent,
plunging into the Thames for a river theatre company nurtures the
tour in an amphibious vehicle. talent of young actors and attracts
d 55 York Road SE1 • Map N5 • Open diverse audiences through its
10am–dusk daily • Admission charge exciting programme of critically
acclaimed productions. d The Cut
% Namco Station
Popular with children, this
galleries below. d Bargehouse
Street SE1 • Map P4 • Open daily
centre has arcade games, bumper
BLACKFRIARS
Bridge
W
RD
AT
RK
^ Florence Nightingale
ER
YO
LO
O
Museum Borough
RD
Westminster
Lambeth
AY N
SEW TO
North
Fascinating museum devoted to
CAU ING
NE W
Shopping
! Parliamentary Bookshop
Buy the day’s political & Oxo Tower Wharf
Two floors are given over to
reading, plus parliamentary- designers of fashion, jewellery
related prints and other souvenirs. and interiors and “the.gallery@
d 12 Bridge Street SW1 • Map L6 oxo” showcases cutting-edge
photography, art, design and ar-
@ Lower Marsh
Once London’s longest
chitecture. d Bargehouse Street SE1
• Map P4 • Open daily
street market, stalls sell inexpen-
sive music, clothes, hardware
and food. Open mornings Mon– * Konditor & Cook
This urban village bakery has
Fri. d Lower Marsh SE1 • Map P6 a cult following amongst the cake
connoisseurs. Its funky iced Magic
£ Llewellyn Alexander
This art gallery has changing,
cakes are legendary. d 22 Cornwall
Road SE1 • Map P5 • Open 7:30am–
quality exhibitions, notably in the 6:30pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–3pm Sat
summer. d 124–126 The Cut SE1 • Map
Q5 • Open 10am–7:30pm Mon–Sat • Free
( Vinopolis
Wines can be tried out on a
$ Southbank Centre
Free concerts are held at
tour of this exhibition of viticul-
ture, and the shop stocks over a
the Royal Festival Hall and the thousand varieties. d 1 Bank End
National Theatre. Both have shops SE1 • Map G4 • Open noon–10pm Thu, Fri
selling books and music. Second- & Sat, noon–9pm Sun • Admission charge
hand books are sold under
Waterloo Bridge. d South Bank SE1
• Map N4 ) Borough Market
Good food from all over the
country comes to this traditional
R OAD
RD
AT
Bridge
ER
RK
LO
YO
Westminster Borough
Lambeth
WA N
SE TO
North
Y
Society of Painter-Printmakers
CAU ING
NE W
@ Footstool
In the basement of St John’s, * Market Porter
A popular, historic market
Smith Square, this is a good spot pub. Open for traders and all-
for a lunchtime snack. d St John’s, night ravers from 6–8:30am.
Smith Square SW1 • Map E5 d 9 Stoney Street SE1 • Map G4
)2
0
67$
4PVUIXBSL
$7
. 5
(5
/2
25
2
<
8FTUNJOTUFS #PSPVHI
'
$<
(: 1
86 72
-BNCFUI
:,
1(
/PSUI
temple to viticulture has a vast
Restaurants
! The Cinnamon Club
Innovative Indian cuisine ^ Tas
Two branches of an exciting,
served in comfortable, club-like modern, yet inexpensive Turkish
premises. d The Old Westminster restaurant. d 33 The Cut SE1. Map P5.
Library, Great Smith Street SW1 020 7928 2111 • 72 Borough High Street
• Map E5 • 020 7222 2555 • ££££ SE1. Map G4. 020 7403 7200 • ££
@ Skylon
Named after the symbol of & Gourmet Pizza Company
A range of pizza toppings
the 1950s Festival of Britain, the is offered at this wonderful river-
Southbank Centre’s restaurant is side shack. d Gabriel’s Wharf SE1
a classy affair. Guests have a fine • Map P4 • 020 7928 3188 • ££
river view, along with classic
British dining. d Southbank Centre,
Belvedere Road SE1 • Map N4 • 020 * Oxo Tower Restaurant
Bar and Brasserie
7654 7800 • £££££ • Grill: ££££ Delicious modern dishes are
served in the restaurant. The
£ Baltic
London’s most spectacular
bar has live jazz (see p77).
d Oxo Tower Wharf SE1 • Map G4
eastern European restaurant • 020 7803 3888 • ££££ • Brasserie: £££
offers excellent dishes such as
sorrel soup, smoked fish, and
caviar in glamorous surroundings. ( Cantina Vinopolis
Huge, vaulted dining room
d 74 Blackfriars Road SE1 • Map Q5 serving excellent Mediterranean
• 020 7928 1111 • ££££ food. d 1 Bank End SE1 • Map P4
• 020 7940 8333 • £££–££££
+ :$
5 .6
4PVUIXBSL 7
'
$7
8FTUNJOTUFS #PSPVHI
<
(5
8BUFSMPP
/2
2
$<
2$
(: 1
86 72
'
-BNCFUI
:,
1(
/PSUI
smart but relaxing atmosphere.
Left Fountain, Trafalgar Square Middle Old Compton Street Right Leicester Square statue
concerts at St Martin-in-the-Fields.
5 $
7
7+%
75((
5' 6
21
;)2 51
:2
( 3
2
1 ( /%
/ $&
2
+
5PUUFOIBN
+
(
(7
&
$PVSU3PBE ,*
6
675( +
8(
2+
6 7 *,/ ( 6 +
5'
'
, * +675((7
26
58
2;)2
(1
+$5
7
+2
5<
6 2
'(
$9
1
(
$1
'( /$
%
,1*
// 1
5 (
(5
(
(7
$
32
:
48
:,
6
*
6
&.
(1
/$
5<
6
0 2 1 0 2 8 7 + 67 5 (
$5
'
75
5((
$5
1'
)
%8
((
6
'2
*
.
67
&
7
5,7
75
6
(6
5(
85
57
((
67
+
$&
+2
)7
7
7
6 7 5 ( (
3OHO
52
5(
67 5
6 (7 % 2
+$
7
5(
6
:
(7
( 0
((7
7
66
5( (( /+$ 67 6
75
6
67 75 ($5 7
6
' (
.
*
((7
1 &$0%5,'*( 1
&
:, 72 2
$
7
6
3 (/
1
&,5&86
'
/
0
2$
&2 6 +
( $PWFOU
6 7
5 (7
75
% ' (
8
/(
2/ 75
1
(BSEFO
((
< 6
;, 1
9(
52
,// (1
7
*7
20 $ 5'
5
21
7
$'
( *$
(( 7
6
5 5 1
67 -FJDFTUFS $& 9(
75
&2
4RVBSF
((
< 7
#OVENT
58
$.
7
%( 85 6 7
5((
3(
6%
*5
*
'
57
'ARDEN
($
$5 1
7(
7 (7
(7 5 5( ( /2
: $
7:
(5 5(
$)
67
*
5( 67
,1'
5 '2
67 /( 7$
6+
,6 (7
0,
5,
/
8 5
67
670$57,1ŝ6/$1(
1
(5
//
%(
+(
67 5
')
5((
:
67
5(
25
/(,&
((7
7
%
'
5(
( 67(
64
67
5(
8$
*(
5
:
(7
5(
6 75 ((7
'
+,
7
1
1JDDBEJMMZ
7&
6
75((7 1
20
$JSDVT
67
5$
* ( 7
%
21
7 25 $1
6
5(
< $1
+
3 ( 7
,//
$<
5(
*(
$' *(
67
0$
6
7 $1
&&
17
5
(( 2
3,
75(
5.
5
67 6 7 $IBSJOH
6
($
(7
(7
$// $SPTT
75
67
<1 , , 0
50
-( + $5 / $IBSJOH
3$
&
7
$SPTT
ZBSET NFUSFT
$ Piccadilly Circus
Designed by John Nash as
a junction in Regent Street, the
Circus is the endpoint of the
street called Piccadilly. Its Eros
statue – erected as a memorial
to the Earl of Shaftesbury – is a
familiar London landmark and a
Statue of Eros, Piccadilly Circus popular meeting place. The Circus
is renowned for its neon adver-
! National Gallery
See pp12–13.
tising displays, which mark the
entrance to the city’s entertain-
ment district. To the south is the
£ Trafalgar Square
Trafalgar Square – once the
% Chinatown
royal mews – is a hub of the West Ornate oriental archways in
End and a venue for public rallies Gerrard Street mark the entrance
and events. From the top of a to Chinatown, an area of London
50-m (165-ft) column, Admiral Lord that has, since the 1950s, been
Nelson, who famously defeated the focus of the capital’s Chinese
Napoleon’s fleet at the Battle of residents. Here you can shop at
Trafalgar in 1805, looks down Chinese supermarkets, street
Whitehall towards the Houses of stalls and gift shops. The Chinese
Parliament. The column is guarded New Year, celebrated in late
at its base by four huge lions – the January or early February, is a
work of Edwin Landseer. At the particular highlight. Chinatown
northwest corner of the square, abounds with excellent-value
the Fourth Plinth features restaurants. d Streets around Gerrard
temporary artworks by leading Street, W1 • Map L3
89
^ Soho Square
This pleasant square, spiked
Nelson’s Column
The centrepiece of Trafalgar Square,
with palms, is popular at lunch- this huge column is topped by a
time, after work and at weekends, statue of Horatio, Viscount Nelson
when there’s always a friendly (1758–1805). Britain’s great naval
Around Town – Soho & the West End
90
A Walk Around
the West End
Morning
Start the day in Trafalgar
91
Around Town – Soho & the West End
Left Façade, Algerian Coffee Stores Right Coffee makers, Algerian Coffee Stores
Shopping
! Ann Summers
When in Soho, you have & Agent Provocateur
Seriously sexy high-quality
to do something naughty. Ann lingerie, from Joseph Corré,
Summers sex shops have been Vivienne Westwood’s son, and
around so long they seem quite his wife Serena Rees. Give in
tame – but their products really to temptation! d 6 Broadwick
are rather risqué. d 79 Wardour Street W1 • Map E3
Street W1 • Map K3
@ Merc * I.OneCamisa
of London’s best-known
A Carnaby Street classic, fans delicatessens, famous for its fresh
may still buy clothes cut from pasta, this is like stepping into a
original 1960s patterns here. 1950s Italian grocery store. d 61
d 10 Carnaby Street W1 • Map J3 Old Compton Street W1 • Map K3
£ Foyles
In a street of bookshops, this ( Algerian Coffee Stores
Opened in 1887, this is one
grandmother of all bookshops is of the oldest shops in Soho. It
something of an institution. A exudes a wonderful aroma of
vast range of subject matter is the many kinds of coffee it sells.
covered. d 113–19 Charing Cross Road Speciality teas and herbal infu-
WC2 • Map L2 sions can also be bought here.
d 52 Old Compton Street W1 • Map K3
$ Lillywhites
Infamous for its vast array of
) The Witch Ball
sporting goods that are spread Original French lithographs,
over six enormous floors, there antique travel posters and prints
are plenty of bargains to be are sold here. The street is lined
found at Lillywhites. d 24–36 Lower with antiquarian print and book
Regent Street SW1Y • Map K3 shops. d 2 Cecil Court WC2 • Map L3
% Milroy’s of Soho ;) 25
' 67
: 2
1 (
5PUUFOIBN
' 67 $PVSU3PBE
25
2;)
:
& 52
6
8(
66
75
Street W1 • Map L2
(1
((
$9
7
52
$'
<
85
6%
^ Scribbler
-FJDFTUFS
7( 4RVBSF
)
+$
670$57,1ŝ6/$1(
6
5(
1JDDBEJMMZ
* ( 1 7 67
$JSDVT $IBSJOH
sells funny, well-designed cards $SPTT
@ Floridita
A long cuban cocktail bar
Oxford Street, St Giles WC1 • Map L2
£ Café Boheme
French-style bistro:
tex mex and tapas are on the
menu. d 9 Greek Street, W1 • Map L2
sandwiches, salads and light
meat and fish dishes are served
until 3am Monday to Saturday. ( Jewel Piccadilly
A chic bar and club attracting
d 13 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L2 the young, the beautiful and
occasionally the famous. Serves
% Balans Café
This lively bar is open
a big draw. d 10 Dean Street W1
• Map K2
24-hours a day. Hot dishes and
sandwiches are on hand to Tottenham NEW
OXF O
R D ST
Court Road
keep people on their feet. Their RD S
T
CHAR
Oxford
Circus OXFO
WA
C RO
SS
TR
EET
RO
AD
^ Punk
UE
EN Leicester
AV Square
RY
A venue that is taking the BU
S
ST MARTIN’S LANE
TE
SH
GE
ST Piccadilly
Circus
and ushers in a more hip, casual
crowd. Boasts a huge bar.
d 14 Soho Street W1 • Map K2
@ Maison Bertaux
This little corner of Paris in
day) and a selection of wines by the
glass. d 90 Berwick Street W1 • Map L2
the heart of Soho attracts a
faithful clientele, who love its
delicious coffee and heavenly * Beatroot
A small, bright vegetarian
cakes. d 28 Greek Street W1 • Map L3 restaurant serving delicious salads
and hot dishes, packed in boxes.
£ French House
A small, one-bar establish-
d 92 Berwick Street W1 • Map K2
$ Bar Italia
Sit at the bar or out on the ) The Dog and Duck
Small, friendly pub with
heated pavement and enjoy the Victorian tiled walls, classic pub
best Italian coffee in London. A food and British cask ales (see p62).
huge screen at the back of the d 18 Bateman Street W1 • Map L2
bar shows Italian football matches.
67
Open 24 hours. d 22 Frith Street W1 )2 5 '
:2;
1 (
(7
5PUUFOIBN
• Map L2 67 5 (
&
5' $PVSU3PBE
:
2
2;)
+$5,1
$5
'2
&
6
526
7
(
5
18
serves quality coffee along with 9(
2$
$
<
'
5 -FJDFTUFS
delicious croissants, pastries 6 %8
4RVBSF
7(
67 0 $ 5 7 , 1ŝ 6 / $ 1 (
$)
6+
5( 1JDDBEJMMZ
* ( 1 7 67
$JSDVT
$IBSJOH
grilled pancetta or black pudding $SPTT
with egg mayonnaise in a roll.
d 73 Beak Street W1 • Map K3
Restaurants
! Italian Grafitti
This bustling trattoria sells ^ Yauatcha
Be prepared to book ahead
quality pizzas as well as pasta, and dress up to enjoy steamed
and swordfish simply grilled with scallop shu mai or venison in puff
oil and garlic. d 163–165 Wardour pastry. d 15 Broadwick Street W1
Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7439 4668 • Map K2 • 020 7494 8888 • ££££
• No disabled access • £££
£ Incognico
Solid French food, such as
restaurant serving imaginative
dishes. d 103 Wardour Street
fried goose liver, is served here. • Map K3 • 020 7479 4790 • ££
The restaurant was set up by
Nico Ladenis, one of London’s
best chefs, who is now retired. ( Busaba Eathai
Trendy Thai restaurant with
d 117 Shaftesbury Avenue WC2 • Map L3 a minimal interior. d 110 Wardour
• 020 7836 8866 • Disabled access • £££ Street W1 • Map K2 • 020 7255 8686 • ££
$ New World
Choose from the trolleys ) Barrafina
Enjoy quality tapas at the
that trundle past at this popular counter in this stylish restaurant.
dim sum venue, or from the Expect to queue. d 54 Frith Street
menu of stir fries. d 1 Gerrard Place W1 • Map L2 • 020 7813 8016 • ££££
W1 • Map L3 • 020 7734 0396 • ££
67
)2 5 '
:2;
1 (
5PUUFOIBN
% Criterion
' 67 $PVSU3PBE
&+$
)25
2;
:
&52
6
6
(
((
18
5
7
9(
dine. The gold, wood and marble $ -FJDFTUFS
2$
6%
furnishings provide a captivating
(
)7
670$57,1ŝ6/$1 (
+$
6
5(
* ( 17 67 1JDDBEJMMZ
$JSDVT $IBSJOH
Modern European menu. d 224 $SPTT
Piccadilly W1 • Map K3 • 020 7930 0488
• Lunch and pre-theatre menus • ££££
Left Covent Garden piazza and central market Right Somerset House
Covent Garden
NE OF LONDON’S LIVELIEST AREAS, Covent Garden
is a popular destination for Londoners and tourists
alike. At its heart is the capital’s first planned square, laid
O
out in the 17th century by Inigo Jones and completed by the addition of the
Royal Opera House. In spite of such grandeur, there is still a local feel to the
surrounding streets and lanes, especially around Neal’s Yard and Endell
Street. To the south of Covent Garden is Somerset House, which contains the
Courtauld Gallery and is the setting for outdoor concerts in summer and a
superb ice skating rink in winter. To get the full impact of the imposing
riverside setting, enter from the Embankment side.
Sights
1 The Piazza and 6 Benjamin Pollock’s
Central Market Toyshop
2 Royal Opera House 7 London Transport
Museum
3 Courtauld
Gallery 8 Neal’sYard
4 Somerset House 9 St Paul’s Church
5 Seven Dials 0 Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
Clowns in Covent Garden
(7
5(
6 7
'
(1
8
.
5
8(
5<
(
(1 7
7 4
(18
6 /
'( 1
,1*
($
// 2 $1
7 (7
(5 5(
*5
7 (
$9
7 67
7 6 :,
6:
%( 1 /'
5((7
1
6 2 675 (
67
6
((7
7 (7
($
5<
(1 (/
$/
75
/
$<
' + *
$5
6 578
/(
((
%8
32
*
0%
0 2 1 0 2 8 7 + 6 7 5
7
#OVENT
(6
'5
.(
6 85
)7
5(
57
67
<
'ARDEN
+$
/
5(
$&
+2
(7
6 $1
5((7
6
(
6 7
*
(7
%2
1
$0 5(
/2
5 /+ 67 :
7
($
((
+
75
1
6
<&
6
72
7
(/
//
':
75
5((
: $PWFOU
6+
6(
((
$/
-$
67
(6
86
(BSEFO
7
0(
7
5
&.
67
6
5(
72
67
,6
$&
(7
7$9
5(
5(
1'
((
*
67
:
1
7
-FJDFTUFS
5$
(/
2
/
/,
4RVBSF
6 7
6
1*
$/
5 21
7
85
/2
& + $ 5 , 1 * & 5 2 6 6 5 2 $ '
) 67
5(<
7 5
(( (7
67
5(
((
*
75 (7
67
6 7 0 $ 5 7 , 1
6 5(
7
$55 .
* 67
5((
,&. 2&
67 1 7
5(( ., 9,6
62
7
7$ 5
7
87
7(
;(
+$
67 (
03
$
/ $1
77
72
5 ,(
1
(
&$
(1
%(
1
67
+
/$
'
67 (
')
( 17
5(
$1
(7
25
(1
1 .0
53
ŝ 6 / $ 1(
,'
75 0 %$
'
0$
/ $&
6 (
6
'2 ,$
(
$1 &( 25
&+ 3/$
7
9,&
67
ZBSET
NFUSFT
£ Courtauld Gallery
Founded in 1932 for the
study of the history of European
art, the Courtauld is part of
Britain’s oldest institute for
teaching the history of art.
Shops and cafés in the former market area Located in the North Block of
Somerset House (below) the
Left Street entertainment in Covent Garden Right Royal Opera production of Platee
99
% Seven Dials
Also known as “Covent
Covent Garden Architect
Inigo Jones (1573–1652) designed
Garden’s hidden village”, this Covent Garden as London’s first
characteristic street layout was planned square. The low roofs and
created by Thomas Neale (1641– classical portico of St Paul’s
Around Town – Covent Garden
^ Benjamin Pollock’s
Toyshop
• Open 10am–6pm Mon–Thu, Sat & Sun;
11am–6pm Fri • Admission charge
Established in the 1880s, this
independent, family-run shop
specializes in toy theatres, * Neal’s Yard
This delightful enclave is full
theatrical gifts and traditional of colour, with painted shop
toys for both children and adult fronts, flower-filled window-boxes
collectors. The colourful range and oil-drums, and cascades of
on offer includes marionettes plants tumbling down the walls.
and puppets, musical boxes and This is alternative London, with
paper dolls. d 44 The Market, Covent wholefoods and such alternative
Garden WC2 • Map M3 • Open 10:30am– therapies as Chinese medicines,
6pm Mon–Sat, 11am–4pm Sun • www. walk-in back rubs and acupuncture.
pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk Visit Neal’s Yard Remedies and
( StInigoPaul’s Church
Jones built this church
Amphitheatre Restaurant,
with its wonderful views.
(known as the actors’ church) with
Afternoon
the main portico facing east, on to
the Piazza, and the altar at the Before leaving the
west end. Clerics objected to Piazza, pop into Benjamin
Pollock’s Toyshop, then
this unorthodox arrangement, so turn down Russell Street
the altar was moved. The entrance and Wellington Street to
is through the burial ground while the Strand. Cross the road
the grand east door is essentially and turn left to Somerset
a fake. d Bedford Street WC2 • Map M3 House, home of the
Courtauld Gallery (see
p99). Start with their
) Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
Drury Lane is synonymous
collection of Impressionist
and Post-Impressionist
with the London stage and this paintings. Pause to relax
glorious theatre explains why. It by the Courtyard fountains
or at the River Terrace
has a splendid entrance, with Café before checking out
magnificent stairways leading to the Embankment Galleries
the circle seats. The auditorium at riverside level, with
is large enough to put on the exhibitions dedicated to a
biggest musical extravaganzas, programme of contem-
porary arts, including
including South Pacific, My Fair design, fashion, architecture
Lady, Hello Dolly and Miss and photography. For
Saigon. The first theatre on this more photography, exit
site was built in 1663 for Charles Somerset House and walk
II whose mistress Nell Gwynne along the Strand to the
Proud Gallery at 32 John
trod the boards. d Catherine Street Adam Street.
WC2 • Map M2 • Guided tours
101
Around Town – Covent Garden
Left Street entertainment, Covent Garden Right Globe atop London Coliseum
@ The Sanctuary
A totally hedonistic day can
* Oasis Sports Centre
be spent in this women-only spa Famous for its heated outdoor
with pools, jacuzzis, saunas, a pool, there is also an indoor pool,
restaurant and relaxation areas. studios, squash courts, gym,
d 12 Floral Street WC2 • Map M3 • Open sauna and sun terrace. d 32 Endell
9:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–8pm Sat Street WC2 • Map M2 • Admission charge
& Sun; evening spa: Mon (Oct–May),
Wed–Thu 5–10pm • Admission charge
( Players Theatre
The company at this tiny
$ Victoria Embankment
Gardens
) Bush House
In summer, outdoor concerts are Home of the BBC World
held in these attractive gardens Service, Bush House has an
by the river. d WC2 • Map M4 imposing portico on its north
side. In the arcade on the south
% Savoy Hotel
Enjoy a traditional afternoon
side, the BBC World Service
Shop sells DVDs, tapes, videos
tea in the Thames Foyer of this and books. d Strand WC2 • Map N3
grand old London hotel (see
p70). d Strand WC2 • Map M3
ST
D
RU
RY
MONMOUTH
LA
NE
CH
AC
WY
Covent LD
Leicester
G
Square LO
ND
RA
retained its Edwardian flavour, ST
ST MART I N’S L AN
Shopping
! Floral Street
This stylish street is home to & Penhaligon’s
In business since 1870, this
Paul Smith, which sells trendy eccentric British perfumery has
clothes, Camper shoes and cool a glorious range of fragrances
French designer Agnes B. and accessories for men and
d Floral Street WC2 • Map M3 women. Perfect for elegant gifts.
d 41 Wellington Street WC2 • Map M3
* Benjamin Pollock’s
streetwear, this street is home Toyshop
to G-Star, Boxfresh and Miss The place to go for toy
Sixty, along with beauty shops theatres, theatrical gifts and
and Neal’s Yard Dairy. d Covent traditional toys such as puppets
Garden WC2 • Map M2 and musical boxes.
d 44 The Market WC2E • Map M3
$ Stanford’s
With an extensive range of
and books on how to master the
very English art of tea-making.
travel guides, literature, maps d 15a Neal Street WC2 • Map M2
and gifts, this shop is a traveller’s
paradise. d 12–14 Long Acre WC2
• Map M3 ) Thomas Neal Centre
This upmarket designer
shopping mall has a range of
'
58
5<
/
$1
&+
$&
:<
/'
$PWFOU
-FJDFTUFS
$
(BSEFO
1
2
4RVBSF /
'
$1
6 7 0 $ 5 7 , 1 ŝ 6
'
6
Street • Map M2
Left World food café sign Centre Enjoying a snack at Paul Right Outside the Lamb and Flag
£ Freud
This small basement attracts
this popular spot. d 36 Drury Lane
WC2 • Map M2
a designer crowd in the evenings.
Huge choice of coffees (some
with liqueurs), cocktails and ( Porterhouse
Excellent beers and a great
bottled beers. d 198 Shaftesbury atmosphere in this pub, which
Avenue W1 • Map L2 boasts snugs and bars over 11
levels. d 21–22 Maiden Lane WC2
$ Canela
Portuguese and Brazilian
• Map M3
'
58
roasts are served upstairs at 5<
0 21028 7+ 67
/
$1
weekday lunchtimes. d 33 Rose (
5(
:<
/'
*
$
1
2
$PWFOU /
-FJDFTUFS '
(BSEFO $1
6 7 0 $ 5 7 , 1 ŝ 6
^ Paul 4RVBSF 75
6
The best patisserie in Covent
'
6
tarts, croissants, breads and
Restaurants
! The Ivy
Mere mortals need to reserve ^ Hamburger Union
Hamburgers are of the
several months ahead for London’s gourmet variety and are
most star-struck restaurant, but accompanied by chunky chips.
it’s worth waiting for the delicious d 4–6 Garrick Street WC2 • Map L3
brasserie-style food and lively • 020 7379 0412 • No disabled access • £
atmosphere. d 1–5 West Street WC2
• Map L2 • 020 7836 4751 • ££££
& Orso
A popular, atmospheric,
@ Abeno Too
Okonomiyaki – Japanese
mid-priced Italian restaurant.
d 27 Wellington Street WC2 • Map N3
comfort food, rather like a cross • 020 7240 5269 • ££££
between omelette and a savoury
pancake – is cooked on a hot
grill right in front of you. d 17–18 * L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Experience fine dining from
Great Newport Street WC2 • Map L3 the man who mentored such
• 020 7379 1160 • £££ luminaries as Gordon Ramsay.
d 13–15 West Street WC2 • Map L2
chain of French restaurants has a
0 2 1 0 2 8 7 + 6 7
'
58
glass roof and spectacular 5<
/
$1
setting overlooking Covent (
5(
:<
/'
$
*
2
$PWFOU /
-FJDFTUFS '
(BSEFO $1
6 7 0 $ 5 7 , 1 ŝ 6
is open 11am–5pm. d The Market, 4RVBSF
6
75
Covent Garden Piazza WC2 • Map M2
'
$1
• 020 7379 0666 • No disabled access 6
75
/ $ 1 (
• Prix Fixe menus • £££
lived here during the early decades of the 20th 8 Pollock’s Toy Museum
and Shop
century. Fitzrovia’s reputation as a raffish place was 9 St George’s Church
enhanced by the characters who drank at the Fitzroy 0 St Pancras
International
Tavern, such as Welsh poet Dylan Thomas (1914–53) Station
and the painter Augustus John (1878–1961).
,JOHT
0 ,' /$
$SPTT . ,1*
ŝ6 & 5
266
(9
5'
1'
(5
,JOHT$SPTT
,JOHT$SPTT
52$
6+
5IBNFTMJOL
4U1BODSBT
2/
'
5( (7
*5
*OUFSOBUJPOBM 1 67
+$ 0367($'
72
$<
1 675
67
.,1*
,1 1
$& 72
5(
$'
-8
52
(7
52
''
ŝ6
$'
&VTUPO + 67 &
67
287 52
6, '0
5(
66
(7
52$'
2 1 52
67 $'
(8
(7
$&(
5(
*5
3/
:2
67
83 851
+8
$<
.
3(
3( 3 /
%
&
&VTUPO 72
ŝ6
17 (
25
5
9 ,6
4RVBSF 7$ $PSBNT 7+
$/
5
&
,1
'JFMET
67 5
$'
:2
52
(( 7
72 1
'2
%8
((7
(86 675
51
8*
*2
52
8BSSFO '
3/
+7 <
25
:
, /)
$&
4USFFU
$'
*8
(5
67
(
$& 3VTTFMM4RVBSF
&ITZROVIA 3/
(/
/
-2 +
62
21 66
*7 58
1
6
&/
87
67
(7
72
,1
(9
5(
5(
+$
55
77
67
67 72
(/
0
(7
(1
'
37
$'
$1
1 5(
*5 $
/$
+$
8$ 52
21
:
"LOOMSBURY
'
&+
+2 64
0
ŝ6
< ŝ6
(SBZT
$5
67 /'
%$
/2
2 *OO
,1 1
7
(PPEHF4USFFU +(
7(
0 (BSEFOT
52
67
+$ /
7
(1
5(
*( <3
:
5'
77 2' ( 7 85
&2
(7
72
67
*2 7 5 ( 6%
%/
20
85
6
22
%/ 2 $IBODFSZ
7
06
$< -BOF
*5(
<:
%8
7
((7 <6 85
5<
67 5 5& 6% 51
&+
$7 3
3( ( // 20 +2/%2
67
5
52
0( 866
$1
025
7, $7 5 7 %/2 +,*+
25
$'
* 5 ( 67 5 ( ( )PMCPSO
&(
7/$
5<
5(( 7
5PUUFOIBN 5 ' 67 25
1
2; ) 2
1'
.,1
/$
%
$PVSU3PBE 1( : 2/
1(
+
675
*6
,*+
5((7 +
'5
67
:$
6 7 * ,/ (6
((7
85
5' +,*+ 67
2;)2
<
<
/$
0YGPSE
1(
! British Museum
See pp8–11.
one of Britain’s leading 19th-
century architects, crammed three
adjoining houses with antiques
@ British Library
Located in the heart of St
and treasures, displayed in the
most ingenious ways. The base-
Pancras, the British Library holds ment crypt, designed to resemble
copies of everything published in a Roman catacomb, is particularly
Britain, as well as many historical original. The Rake’s Progress
publications from around the (1753), a series of eight paintings
world. Members have free access by Hogarth, is another highlight.
to these, while non-members The houses are on the northern
can enjoy the magnificent space side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, the
and the regular exhibitions put heart of legal London, where
on here. A dazzling, permanent gowned and bewigged lawyers
display in the Sir John Ritblatt roam. Lincoln’s Inn, on the east
Gallery includes the earliest map side of the square, is one of the
of Britain (1250), a Gutenberg best preserved Inns of Court in
Bible (1455), Shakespeare’s first London, part of it dating from
folio (1623), Handel’s Messiah the 15th century.
(1741) and many breathtaking d 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields WC2 • Map N1
illuminated manuscripts. The • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 6–9pm first
glass walls in the core of the Tue of month • Free
Left Illuminated manuscript, British Library Right Sir John Soane’s Museum
% University
London
College pharmaceutical companies,
explores the connections
Founded in 1836, UCL is one between medicine, life and
of the world’s leading multi- art. d 183 Euston Road NW1
disciplinary universities • Map E2 • Open 10am–6pm Tue,
and has many fascinating Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–10pm Thu,
collections of international 11am–6pm Sun • Free • www.
importance, including the wellcomecollection.org
Petrie Museum of Egyptian
Archaeology, the Grant
Museum of Zoology and & BT Tower
At 190 m (620 ft), this was
the UCL Art Collections. the tallest building in London
The university hosts public when it opened in 1965. Sadly,
lectures, workshops and the revolving restaurant on
exhibitions as well as per- top has been closed for
formances at its Bloomsbury security reasons, but the
Theatre in Gordon Street. Tower Tavern in Cleveland
d Gower Street WC1 • Map K1 Street has a good large-scale
• Bloomsbury Theatre • Map E2 diagram explaining the tower’s
• 020 7388 8822 • www.ucl.ac.uk/ BT constituent parts (as well as
museums Tower hand-pulled beer). d Map D2
Left Façade, St Pancras International Station Right Carved figures, St Pancras Parish Church
( StThisGeorge’s Church
church was described in Afternoon
a 19th-century guide book as “the See the photos of literary
most pretentious, ugliest edifice in figures such as Dylan
the metropolis”. The steeple is top- Thomas in the basement
bar of Fitzroy Tavern (see
ped with a statue of King George I p111) at No.16 Charlotte
posing as St George. There is a Street, while enjoing a pre-
programme of music events and lunch drink. If you fancy
an exhibition in the crypt. something more substantial
d Bloomsbury Way WC1 • Map M1 than bar food, try a curry
from Rasa Samudra (see
• Open 1–4pm daily and for services on
p111) at No. 5.
Wed & Fri (1pm), Sun (10:30am)
After lunch, amble up to
) St Pancras International
Station
the Brunswick Centre
for some shopping, from
food to fashion. This
One of the glories of Victorian awesome concrete-and-
Gothic architecture, this railway glass megastructure is
terminus was designed in 1874 one of London’s iconic
by Sir George Gilbert Scott. Most buildings. Catch a cult flick
of the frontage is in fact the at arthouse cinema The
Renoir, or have a coffee
Midland Grand Hotel. The Eurostar at Carluccio’s (One, The
International Terminal opened here Brunswick).
in 2007. d Euston Road NW1 • Map E1
109
Around Town – Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia
Left Stylish glasses at Heals Centre Choosing a teddy at Hamley’s Right Liberty
Shopping
! Liberty
One of London’s most ^ Contemporary
Applied Arts
appealing department stores, CAA promotes British art and
Liberty sells cutting-edge crafts, and you can find glass,
contemporary design in clothing, ceramics, textiles and jewellery
jewellery and household items. within. d 2 Percy Street W1 • Map K1
Opened in 1875, to specialise in
goods and silks from the Empire,
the shop remains famous for its & James Smith and Son
Established in 1830, James
“Liberty Print” fabric (see p64). Smith is a beautiful shop that
d 210–220 Regent Street W1 • Map J2 will meet all your umbrella, cane
and walking stick needs. d 53
@ Hamleys
London’s largest toy shop
New Oxford Street WC1 • Map L1
£ Heals
London’s leading furniture ( Jarndyce
The handsome antiquarian
store is a showcase for the best bookshop is best for 18th- and
of British design. There is a café 19th-century British literature.
on the first floor. d 196 Tottenham d 46 Great Russell Street WC1 • Map L1
Court Road W1 • Map E2
52
5 /
1
72
Find exquisite crafts and (
86
8BSSFO
3VTTFMM
4USFFU
jewellery in this museum shop. 4RVBSF
72
62
77
87
+$
(1
72
(PPEHF
0
1
&
4USFFU
rings modelled on those of
5
28
2:
57
5
2/%251
ancient Egypt or a replica Roman +,*++
'
)PMCPSO
0YGPSE
bust to contemporary crafts.
.,1
d 22 Great Russell Street WC1 • Map L1 $PVSU3PBE
$<
£ Bam-Bou
Set in a lovely four-storey
( Carluccio’s Caffè
Georgian townhouse, this is a A touch of authentic Italy in
traditional South Asian restaurant. this quiet square behind Oxford
d 1 Percy Street W1 • Map K1 • 020 Street. Eat hand-made pasta at
7323 9130 • No disabled access • ££££ pavement tables. d 8 Market Place
W1 • Map J2 • 020 7636 2228 • £
) Tas
salubrious but this Chinese This branch is well placed,
restaurant and cocktail bar is offering Turkish food made for
certainly classy. d 8 Hanway Place sharing. d 22 Bloomsbury Street WC1
W1 • Map K1 • 020 7927 7000 • £££££ • Map L2 • 020 7637 4555 • ££
% Fitzroy Tavern
The pub that gave its name
(
86
7 21
5
2$
'
2$
8 3 8 51
21
5 /
8BSSFO 8 6 7
(
4USFFU
after-work crowd. Good Samuel
3VTTFMM
Smith beer is reasonably priced.
72
4RVBSF
77
62
(1
87
+$
0
03
(PPEHF
&
72
4USFFU
28
1
5
57
2:
5
2/%251
^ Salt Yard
+,*++
'
)PMCPSO
Spanish grazing dishes here
.,1
5PUUFOIBN
' 67
2; )2 5
*6:
$PVSU3PBE
include Old Spot pork belly with 0YGPSE$JSDVT
$<
6 7
6 $ 9
125
1(
*5269(125 69(
(*
648$5( * 5 2
:
7
,/(
%2
6
(1
/(,&(67(5
5
1'
'(
7
87
67
$5
&,5&86
%5 * 67
1
628
-AYFAIR
*
(5
/, 1 $JSDVT
85
.(
7+
5
7 %
+ $
/(
64
((
2
$8
(*
<
75
8$
/'
<0
6 7
5(
(1
%2
50 ((
%
'/(
$5
/<
) $ 75
6
(5
1'
76
1
,/
.(
((7
<
.(
0<
67
675 ' 7
75
(5
&$
/(
7
7
+ (( - $6
287
67
<
,& /(
((
6 75
67
6 3 $/
7
5(
5((
/0
5/(6
(7
3TŽ*AMESŚS
(7
& + $ /
3$
6
5(
7
7
6
3$
7-
= 21 /
$0
+$ 6
5.
(SFFO
&85 $/
/) 75 (
1BSL
(6
0 (
0
/
22 7
/
ŝ6
$1
1
/
67
3 $
3$5
5(
(
(7
/<
. / $ 1 (
,/ /
$' 0
$/
, &&
3 ( SFFO (
+ 4U+BNFThT
1B SL 7
1BSL
+<'(3$5.
&251(5
B LF
)ZEF1BSL -
$PSOFS BSL
&2167,787,21+,// 1
5 F T T
1 2 7 BN
U+
1 4
(6 (
&5 69
*
&(
*52
52
63
.
:$/
85
* (
69
52
,5'&$
(1 %
$'
(7
2
% ( / 0 %8
5(
5
3$/ 1* +$
' &.
67
6 * 727 + , / / 6 7 5 ( ( 7
3
,1
/
48 5 $ $1 & (
5
4U+BNFTT
3(
$5 9( *+ )5
/$
$&(
7<
,
$0
+$
&(
$7 (
! Buckingham
See pp26–7.
Palace Academy’s popular, annual
summer exhibition, new works
by both established and
@ StThisJames’s Park
is undoubtedly London’s
unknown artists are displayed
(see p51). d Burlington House,
most elegant park, with dazzling Piccadilly W1 • Map J4 • Open 10am–
flower beds, exotic wildfowl on 6pm daily (10pm Fri) • Free (admission
the lake, an excellent restaurant/ charge for temporary exhibitions)
café next to the lake (Inn the
Park, 020 7451 9999 to book)
and music on the bandstand in $ StBuiltJames’s Palace
by Henry VIII, on the
summer. The bridge over the lake site of the former hospital of
has a good view to the west of St James, the palace’s red brick
Buckingham Palace and, to the Tudor gatehouse is a familiar
east, of the former Colonial Office landmark (see p54). d The Mall
where just 125 civil servants SW1 • Map K5 • Closed to public
the south) has long been the In 1960 the Embassy building
place for high society to promen- opened on land leased from the
ade: many of its establishments Grosvenor Estate, who refused to
sell the freehold unless 12,000
have been here for over 100
acres of their estate in Florida,
years. The street is home to top confiscated after the War of
fashion houses, elegant galleries Independence, was returned.
such as Halcyon and the Fine Art
Society, Sotheby’s auction rooms
and jewellers such as Tiffany and
Asprey. Where Old and New & Apsley House
The home of the Duke of
Bond Street meet, there is a Wellington (see p53), Apsley
delightful sculpture of wartime House is still partly occupied by
leaders Franklin D the family. Designed by
Roosevelt and Winston Robert Adam in the
Churchill – well worth a 1770s, the mansion is
photograph. d Map J3–J4 given over to paintings,
and memorabilia of the
^ Shepherd Market
The market was
great military leader.
Paintings include several
named after Edward fine works by Diego
Shepherd who built a Velázquez, including The
two-storey house here Sumptuous interior, Waterseller of Seville.
in around 1735. Today, this Apsley House Antonio Canova’s nude
pedestrianized area in the statue of Napoleon has
heart of Mayfair is a good place special poignancy. d Hyde Park
to visit on a summer evening for Corner W1 • Map D5 • Open Apr–Oct:
a drink or meal. Ye Grapes, dating 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (to 4pm Nov–Mar)
from 1882, is the principal pub, • Admission charge
while local restaurants include
L ‘Artiste Musclé, Le Boudin Blanc
and The Village Bistro. During the *Berkeley Square
This pocket of green in the
17th century, an annual May Fair middle of Mayfair was planted in
was held here, giving the area its 1789 and its 30 huge plane trees
name. d Map D4 may be the oldest in London.
114
Exploring St James’s
Morning
Starting from St James’s
Park Underground, walk up
( Burlington Arcade
This arcade of bijou shops Afternoon
was built in 1819 for Lord George Fortnum & Mason (see
Cavendish of Burlington House p64) is the perfect place
(see Royal Academy of Arts p113) to buy tea, as a souvenir,
and to have lunch, in the
to prevent people from throwing
Fountain restaurant,
rubbish into his garden. The where the dieter’s choice
arcade is patrolled by uniformed is caviar and half a bottle
beadles who control unseemly of champagne.
behaviour. d Piccadilly W1 • Map J4
Cross Piccadilly to the
Royal Academy of Arts
) Royal Institution
Michael Faraday (1791–1867),
(see p113) and spend an
hour on their permanent
a pioneer of electro-technology, collection, including
experimented in the laboratories Michelangelo’s sculpture,
of the Royal Institution, where Madonna and Child.
Window shop along
he was Professor of Chemistry Burlington Arcade and then
from 1833–67. These Neo-classical the Cork Street galleries
buildings house high-spec (see p116). Turn left into
laboratories, the famous Faraday Bond Street, heading for
theatre and a fascinating science Brown’s (see p177) stylish
hotel in Albemarle Street,
exhibition. d The Royal Institution, 21 and relax over a lavish (and
Albemarle Street W1 • Map J3 • Open expensive) English tea.
9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri • Free
115
Around Town – Mayfair & St James’s
Shopping
! Fortnum and Mason
Famous for its food hall and ^ Mulberry
Come here for the complete
restaurants, this elegant depart- country-house look, including
ment store still has male staff clothing, household items and
who wear coat tails. Try the gorgeous leather goods. d 41–2
extravagant ice creams in the New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
Parlour restaurant (see p64).
d 181 Piccadilly W1 • Map J4
& Cork Street Galleries
Cork Street is famous for its
@ Asprey
The British royal family have
art galleries. You can buy works
by the best artists here, from
bought their jewels here for more Picasso and Rothko to Damien
than a century. Other gift items to Hirst and Tracey Emin. d Map J3
be found here include pens and
silver picture frames. d 165–169
New Bond Street W1 • Map J3 * Sotheby’s
View everything from pop
star memorabilia to Old Master
£ Charbonnel et Walker
One of the best chocolate
paintings at this fine arts auction
house founded in 1744. d 34–5
shops in town selling a tempting New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
array of handmade chocolates.
Fill one of the pretty boxes, which
come in a range of sizes, with ( Fenwick
An up-market, small
your own choice of chocolates. department store with designer
d 1 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond labels, accessories and lingerie.
Street W1 • Map J4 d 63 New Bond Street W1 • Map J3
1JDDBEJMMZ
5
7 67
1
<
5
//
'%
',
(*
&$
21
(1
3
76
($
7 67
$//
7
/0
3$/
-
/
$0
/
0$
( 6ŝ6
% Browns
/
67
(SFFO $/
/< 3
,/ 1BSL
London’s most famous &&
$'
3,
designer clothing store stocks
)ZEF1BSL
pieces by Lanvin, Balenciaga and
$PSOFS
@ Brilliantly-decorated in a
Momo & Nicole’s Restaurant
Located in the Nicole Farhi
fashion shop, this restaurant is a
kasbah style, this modern, North popular lunch stop. d 158 New Bond
African restaurant serves tajines Street W1 • Map J3 • 020 7499 8408 • ££
and couscous. The Mo Café and
Bazaar next door serves tea
and snacks. d 25 Heddon Street W1 * Alloro
This Mayfair restaurant has
• Map J3 • 020 7434 4040 • ££££ an airy first-floor dining room, and
good Italian food. d 19–20 Dover Street
£ The Avenue
Join the smart set in this
W1 • Map J4 • 020 7495 4768 • £££££
$ Tamarind
This Indian restaurant doesn’t ) The Greenhouse
Michelin-star modern
disappoint. The food is modern, European cuisine in a serene
original and seasonal while staff Mayfair location. d 27a Hay’s Mews
are helpful and efficient. The set W1 • Map D4 • 020 7499 3331 • £££££
menus are great value. d 20
1JDDBEJMMZ
:
5 (
$JSDVT
%2
3561 • ££££
1'
*(
7 67
67
2
5
/ /<
/'
',
%2
(*
&$
1'
(1
,&
67
76
($
$//
7
/0
3$/
-$0
//
(
$
6ŝ6
0
67
/
offer at this sophisticated modern /<
(SFFO
1BSL 3
$/
,/
restaurant. Only set-course meals $'
&&
3,
are served; at lunchtime 2- and 3-
)ZEF1BSL
course meals are £30 and £35.
$PSOFS
Left Tiles, Holland House Centre Kensington Palace Gardens Right Natural History Museum
Sights
1 Natural History Museum 6 Harrods
2 Science Museum 7 Albert Hall
3 Victoria and Albert 8 Portobello Road
Museum
9 Holland Park
4 Kensington Palace
0 Leighton House
5 Albert Memorial
Decorative relief, Natural
History Museum
4 8 ( ( 1
,/ /
.O T T I N G 1 + '
$7 (5 5
3
#BZTXBUFS 9(
3
5 &5 $ % $< 6 :
2
.(
1 6 72 % -BODBTUFS
(ILL
$5 .
6 : $<
,1 * ( / / (BUF
72 2
$'
/ $
1 52
52
3 ( 0 % 5,
3
-BECSPLF $ 5 . $ '
2VFFOTXBZ (5
1(
5 6:$7
% $ <
4RVBSF 2$
7 + ( 5
(BSEFOT '
7(
*$
'* (5'
5 IF -
/ )ZEF1BSL
+,/
. (1
)PMMBOE
,1 *
,FOTJOHUPO
PO
1BSL 77, 1 *
12
H
/PUUJOH (BSEFOT
8
6 , 1 *7 2
BU
)JMM(BUF
FS
1&
5I F 4 F S Q F O
UJ O F
( O L L AN D
*
+85
5 ,1
0A RK &+
7 +(
67 5
,OJHIUTCSJEHF
((7
)PMMBOE
1 5 ' . 1 , * +76%5,'*(
. ( 1 6,1*7 2
. ( 1 6 , 1 * 7 2 1 * 2 5 (
( ; + , %
3$/$ & ( * $7 (
1BSL
'
67
(7
+NIGHTSBRIDGE
2$
5( )JHI4USFFU
$6 , /
67
5
6 /2 $
+ ,FOTJOHUPO
,*
1
,7 ,21
%
+ 2
21 37
1(
*/2 8 & $'
* 7 0
( 5
6,1 52
52
52
.(
1
+E N S I N G T O N %
$5 / 2$'
67
(7
$'
6
5( 21
' 1
28 5
( 67 (5
/ *
67 /7
: (/
$
5( (7
:
& 52 0
7
$ Kensington Palace
This is a delightful royal
tableaux representing the
Empire, which was at its height
residence on a domestic scale, during Victoria’s reign.
which is still in use by members d Kensington Gardens SW7 • Map B4
120
Kensington on Foot
Morning
Start at South Kensington
Underground station, and
( Holland Park
There is a great deal of
Turn right into Beauchamp
Place, where window
shopping takes in creations
charm about Holland Park,
by such English designers
where enclosed gardens are as Bruce Oldfield and
laid out like rooms in an open-air Caroline Charles. Continue
house. At its centre is Holland down into Pont Street, and
House, a beautiful Jacobean turn left up Sloane Street.
mansion, which was destroyed Check out Hermés, Chanel
and Dolce e Gabbana
in a bombing raid in 1941. What before turning left along
remains is used as a youth Knightsbridge to Harrods.
hostel and the backdrop for
summer concerts. Peacocks Harrods has a choice of
roam in the woods and in the 29 bars and restaurants,
including the food hall’s
gardens, including the Dutch Deli and Oyster Bar and
Garden, where dahlias were legendary Caffè Florian
first planted in England. on the third floor.
d Abbotsbury Road W14 • Map A4–A5
Afternoon
121
Around Town – Kensington & Knightsbridge
Left Riding, Hyde Park Centre Serpentine Gallery Right Holland Park Orangery
£ Serpentine Gallery
In the southeast corner of
take place on summer evenings.
d Hyde Park W2 • Map C4
Kensington Gardens, this gallery
houses temporary exhibitions of
contemporary art (see p51). ( Speakers’ Corner
This corner of Hyde Park
d Kensington Gardens W2 • Map B4 attracts assorted public speakers,
• Open 10am–6pm daily • Free especially on Sundays. d Hyde
Park W2 • Map C3
$ Christie’s
Visiting the salerooms here
) Hyde Park Stables
is like going to a small museum. Ride around Hyde Park or
Their experts will value items take lessons – this is the best
brought in by the public. d 85 Old place for horse riding in London.
Brompton Road SW7 • Map B5 • Open d 63 Bathurst Mews W2 • Map B3
9am–5pm Mon–Fri (7:30pm Mon)
#BZTXBUFS 7 (5 5 '
% $< 6 :$
2VFFOTXBZ -BODBTUFS
% Electric Cinema
London’s oldest purpose- 12
7 7,1
)PMMBOE
* +,
//
*$7
(
/PUUJOH
)JMM(BUF
(BUF
,OJHIUTCSJEHF
one of the prettiest and offers . ( 1 6
, 1 * 7 2 1 *2 5 (
67
+
,*
+
1
72
7 21 3
20
it also has a bar and restaurant. 16
, 1* )JHI4USFFU
,FOTJOHUPO
%5
. (
d Portobello Road W11 • Map A3
Shopping
! Harrods
London’s most famous
company has held the Royal
Warrant since 1960. Expect
store has over 300 departments service fit for a Queen. d 2
full of the finest goods that Hans Road SW3 • Tube Knightsbridge
money can buy. Specialities
include food, fashion, china,
glass and kitchenware (see p64 & Antiquarius
Up to 60 dealers housed
and p120). d 87–135 Brompton Road under one roof sell vintage
SW1 • Map C5 jewellery and silverware as
well as more unusual antiques.
@ Harvey Nichols
Another top London store.
d 131–141 King’s Road SW3 • Map C6
$ Charity Shops
Browse the many charity
Road SW3 • Map B6
% Artisan du Chocolat
Combining artistry and
Hill. d 13–15 Blenheim Crescent W11
• Tube Ladbroke Grove
craftsmanship, Gerard Coleman
creates some of London’s most Bayswater BAYSW AT
ER R D
High Street
Kensington
IN G T O N G O R E
Knightsbridge
@ Churchill Arms
Filled with intriguing bric-à-
experience with divine food,
impeccable service and charming
brac and Churchill memorabilia, atmosphere. This quintessential
this is a large, friendly Victorian Italian café is on the third floor
pub. Inexpensive Thai food is of Harrods department store.
served in the conservatory at d Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C5
lunchtime and for dinner until
9:30pm. d 119 Kensington Church
Street W8 • Map A4 * Fifth Floor Café
Open all day for breakfast,
lunch, tea and dinner. d Harvey
$ Portobello Gold
This trendy bar, used by local ) Portobello Stalls
Along the market there are
antique dealers, has a suitably stalls offering ethnic food of
alternative atmosphere and an every kind. The area also has
upstairs Internet bar. There is a good choice of cafes around
also a conservatory restaurant. Portobello Green. d Portobello
d 95–97 Portobello Road W11 • Map A3 Road W11 • Tube Westbourne Park
% Nag’s Head
A short walk from Hyde Park
127 7
, 1 *
+ , //
*$7(
/PUUJOH
2VFFOTXBZ -BODBTUFS
(BUF
+
+,
* )JHI4USFFU
1
21 ,FOTJOHUPO 72
,1
*7 03
atmosphere here. d 53 Kinnerton . (
16
%
52
Street SW1 • Map C4
Restaurants
! Clarke’s
The menu consists of what- ^ Royal China
A tempting variety of dim
ever chef Sally Clarke decides sum, including delicious char siu
to cook for the evening meal. buns, are the main attraction
Whatever it is will be excellent. here. d 13 Queensway W2 • Map A3
d 124 Kensington Church Street W8 • 020 7221 2535 • £££
• Map A5 • 020 7221 9225 • £££££
/PUUJOH
live fado – Portuguese folk music )JMM(BUF
,OJHIUTCSJEHF
– at the oldest Portuguese .(
16 ,1 *7 2 1 * 25 (
67
+
restaurant in London. d 49–50
5 '
,*
+
1
1 2
* 72 0 37
,1 )JHI4USFFU
Beauchamp Place SW3 • Map C5 . (
16
,FOTJOHUPO
%
52
• 020 7589 3002 • ££££
$
9 $'
(1
O 5 2 BM
8 T$B
HFOU
(
3F
OBM
52
7
(5
$B
$'
/ % PO
$ OJ
E6
$ /
BO
( (S
1&
%$1
5,
<
3
67 5
3FHFOUhT1BSL
((7
2VFFO
#PBUJOH
-BLF .BSZT
3
(BSEFOT
Sights
$ 5.
5
75((7
2$
'
1 Madame
*
3FHFOUT Tussaud’s
/2 8
/,
66 1BSL
2 London Zoo
& ( 67
21
$ '
( 52
( 5 3
(% 2 1
*
3
32 57
/$ & (
$
0
9(
0$ 5 </(% 2 1 ( + ,* +675(
4
/$1 '
&EHXBSF '
5 2 $#BLFS
Regent’s Park
3PBE 1 (
3 /
(%2
$5</ 4USFFU
5 Marylebone Cricket
0 -ARYLEBONE
* /
7 Club Museum
3 ( /6
& +$
28&
%$.
6 Sherlock Holmes
( 67
(( '
(5
7
75 $(
Museum
6 3 5
(5
67
0 $
(7
64
' ,6 +
(
3/
& $9 (1
7
'
6
5((
Wigmore Hall
</
6 7
*
(1
5
$&(
' (;
(
:
%2
7
$5
$5 66
(
025
- $ 0
8
1(
/
6
5
( 6
$1
(7
6 7 5 (
2
5 6 7
(
$'
<0 2
8
9
67
6( .BSCMF 5'
#POE BBC Broadcasting
1(
2;)2
:
$5&+
0$5 %/(
1'
2$' -AYFAIR 0
6
: $7 (
75(
/$1
% $ < 6 )ZEF1BSL
Mosque
( 7
.
! Madame Tussaud’s
Madame Tussaud’s museum
taste. As well as 25 galleries
of fine Sèvres porcelain and
of waxwork models of the famous an unrivalled collection of
has been one of London’s major armour, there are old masters
attractions for a century. The by English, French and Dutch
famous Chamber of Horrors puts artists, including Frans Hals’s
visitors face-to-face with London’s The Laughing Cavalier (see p50).
most infamous criminals. To d Manchester Square W1 • Map D3
avoid a long wait, arrive early in • Open 10am–5pm daily • Free
the day or book ahead by phone
or web to get a timed ticket.
(see p68). d Marylebone Road NW1 $ Regent’s Park
The best part of Regent’s
• Map C2 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily Park is the Inner Circle. Here are
• Admission charge Queen Mary’s Gardens, with
beds of wonderfully fragrant
@ London Zoo
Lying on the northern side
roses, the Open Air Theatre with
its summer Shakespeare plays,
of Regent’s Park, London Zoo and the Garden Café, which,
is home to 600 different animal along with the Honest Sausage
species. The zoo is heavily into near London Zoo, is the best
conservation and you can see park café. Rowing boats, tennis
the breeding programmes of courts and deck chairs can be
endangered animals, such as the rented and in summer musical
western lowland gorillas and performances take place on the
Sumatran tigers. A map is bandstand (see p29). d NW1
provided and their booklet is full • Map C1–D2 • Open 5am–dusk daily
Left Barack Obama, Madame Tussaud’s Right Boating lake, Regent’s Park
129
% Marylebone
Museum
Cricket Club Regency London
Regent’s Park was named after the
This is the place to unravel the Prince Regent (the future George
mysteries of England’s greatest IV) who employed John Nash in
gift to the world of sports. Founded 1812 to lay out the park on the
Around Town – Regent’s Park & Marylebone
Left Residential narrow boats, Regent’s Canal Right BBC Broadcasting House
131
Around Town – Regent’s Park & Marylebone
Left Selfridges columned façade Centre John Lewis department store Right Selfridges window
Shopping
! Daunt’s Books
All kinds of travel books, ^ Marylebone Lane
This charming lane off
including fiction, are arranged Marylebone High Street still has
along oak galleries in this plenty of quirky gems to tempt
atmospheric Edwardian travel the shopper. d Off Marylebone High
bookshop. d 83–84 Marylebone Street W1 • Map D3
High Street W1 • Map D3
$ Divertimenti
This innovative London
designer fashion. Its award-
winning food hall is wonderful.
kitchen store has a huge variety d 400 Oxford Street W1 • Map D3
of cooking implements, utensils
and tableware. Open
Sunday afternoons. ( Marks &
Spencer
d 33/34 Marylebone High This flagship British
Street W1 • Map D3 brand is known for
its underwear and
Market
3
. Street W1 • Map D3
$5
52
$'
3FHFOUT
Vintage jewellery, 1BSL
#BLFS '
( 52 $
fashion, art and
&EHXBSF
4USFFU0
$5 </
(% 2 1
) Debenhams
0 $ 5</( % 21 (+ ,* +
3257
2$'
furniture are all under 3PBE /(%2
1(5 A middle-of-the-
/$1'
<
0$5
%$.(
((7
67 5 ( (
(
52
.BSCMF
7
675((7
"SDI 2;)25'
out. d 13–25 Church : $7(552
$'
0$5%/(
$5 & + #POE
toys. d 334–348 Oxford
%$<6
Street NW8 • Map C2 4USFFU Street W1 • Map D3
£ Caffè Caldesi
This light and airy Italian
serving French-inspired food. d 55
Marylebone High Street W1 • Map D3
eaterie offers classic dishes and • 020 7616 8000 • Disabled access • £££££
a good wine list. The upstairs
restaurant is slightly more
formal. d 118 Marylebone Lane W1 ( The Providores and
Tapa Room
• Map D3 • 020 7935 1144 • ££££ On the ground floor, the Tapa
Room serves exciting fusion
$ Reubens
One of London’s
cuisine; upstairs is a more
sophisticated foodie
best kosher restau- experience at The
rants offering such Providores. d 109
comfort food as Marylebone High Street
chopped liver and W1 • Map D3 • 020 7935
salt beef. d 79 Baker
6175 • £££–££££
Street W1 • Map C3
3$
.
5
52
$'
3FHFOUT
• 020 7486 0035 • £££
&EHXBSF
#BLFS
4USFFU $5 </(%2 1(
0
1BSL
52 $'
) Golden Hind
Indulge yourself
0 $ 5 < / ( % 2 1 ( + , * + 6
3257
3PBE
% Mandalay
5 2$'
</(%
21( here with traditional
/$1'
0$5
%$.(
((7
(
7 5((
52$
.BSCMF 675((7
7
"SDI 2;)25'
Chinese, and Indian. :$7(5
52$'
0$5%/ (
$5& + #POE
Lane W1 • Map D3 • 020
%$<6
Friendly, inexpensive 4USFFU
7486 3644 • ££
Left Fish weathervane at Old Billingsgate Market Right Old Billingsgate Market
The City
Sights
1 Tower of London 6 Guildhall
5 2:
% 8 1 + , / /
: ( // 5'
$
/( 5. (1
&2
'JFMET
#BSCJDBO
+ 1 6 7 5 ( ( 7
'BSSJOHEPO 75 ((7 675( (7
(5& , $ /
+ 6
(&
%(
(
(7
)$ 5
75(
6 * $7
675 ((
6
5 ,1*'
( -JWFSQPPM
86 4USFFU
(
2
675
(5+ (
21 5 2
.PPSHBUF
$7
7
+23
$5 / $1
&+ *
25*
7
1
/2 0
((
0 2
,'
% ,6
7
$'
+ 2/ /2
%2 1'21 4USFFU
5 1
(6
9 , : $ /
/
$7(
(;
1 $1*( / 5( 6 81 &BTU
(: +$ 0 '6
75
*$ 67 675
$JUZ 7 ( ((7
#ITY ',
0
((
7& 7
(
67
$7
5IBNFTMJOL 5( 4U +
(7
6*
67
1BVMT
% 67
23
( "MEHBUF
5,
&+ ('/
3 5 ,167
1(:&+$1*(
% , 6+
'(
($3 6
'1 (
0$
$7 ( +
1( :%5 ,'*(67
0
6
1 6 ( / /
,/ / 6 / ( $ '( 1 + $ / / 67 (
7 3
&2 5 1 + , / / $7
, 12 5
$8 /
( ( 7 +
#BOL $/
+<$5' 20
675 8 5 &
,( 6
%$5
67
. ,1 67 5
' 6 7
.BOTJPO 7 ((
$& (& +
& 675
*: ( ( 7
'FODIVSDI
4 8( (1
4 8 ( (1 9 , & 72 5 )PVTF
, $ 67 5 ( ( 7 $1 1
2 1 )( 1& + 8 5 &+ 4USFFU
,//
67
0 ,12
*5
,$0
5 (( 7
#MBDLGSJBST
8 3 3 ( 5 7 + $ 0 ( 6
67 5( (7 ( $67&
$BOOPO +( $3 *
5( $ 5PXFS
#MBDLGSJBST
5,(
772
4USFFU :( )JMM
6+
3JWF
S /RQGRQ 5PXFS
.JMMFOOJVN1JFS
%ULGJH
5 $ 5 . % 5 , '* (
72 :
3OUTHWARK -POEPO#SJEHF 5 I
BN
2$ '
$JUZ1JFS FT
62
62 8 7 + :
87 + 4U,BUIBSJOFhT
:$
5. -POEPO
67 5 #SJEHF 1JFS
(( 7
ZBSET NFUSFT
$ Barbican Centre
The cultural jewel of the City,
and run by the City of London
Tower Bridge and the Pool of London Corporation, the Barbican Centre
is an important arts complex.
! Tower of London
See pp36–9.
Music, dance, theatre, film and
art all take place here, with top
visiting performers and artists.
@ StSeePaul’s Cathedral
pp40–43.
There is also an excellent library,
restaurants and cafés. Opened in
1982, the arts complex is part of
£ Tower Bridge
When the Pool of London
the Barbican, a major development
covering 20 acres and flanked by
was the gateway to the city’s large blocks of flats. Access from
larder, this flamboyant bridge the Barbican tube station is along
(see p71) was constantly being a marked route. Moorgate, Liver-
raised and lowered for sail and pool Street, St Paul’s and Bank
steam ships bringing their cargoes stations are all within walking
from all corners of the Empire. distance. The Centre looks
Pedestrians who needed to cross across a lake to the church of St
the river when the bridge was Giles Cripplegate, dating from
open had to climb up the 200 1550 (see p56). d Silk Street EC2
steps of the towers to the • Map R1 • Box office: 020 7638 8891
135
% Museum of London
An essential visit for anyone
Dick Whittington
A stained-glass window in St
interested in the history of Michael, Paternoster Royal, depicts
London. Visitors discover the Dick Whittington (and his cat) –
City’s many incarnations in hero of a well-known London rags-
Around Town – the City
^ Guildhall
For around 900 years the
Raphaelite works. With the aid
of a computerized cataloguing
Guildhall has been the administra- system, it is possible to view all
tive centre of the City of London. the Guildhall’s 31,000 prints and
City ceremonials are held in its paintings. d Gresham Street EC2
magnificent 15th-century Great • Map G3 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Hall, which is hung with banners noon–4pm Sun • Admission charge
of the main livery companies. In
the Guildhall Library are rotating
displays of historic manuscripts * Bank of England Museum
This fascinating museum,
and an intriguing collection of located within the impressive
watches and clocks, from the walls of the Bank of England,
Worshipful Company of Clock- tells the history of the bank from
makers – some from 1600. its foundation in 1694 to the
d Guildhall Yard, Gresham Street EC2 • Map present day. Its unique collections
G3 • Open 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat (& Sun of coins, banknotes and artefacts
May–Sep) (except during events) • Free are supplemented by audio-visual
136
The City on Foot
Morning
Start the day with a brisk
trot up the 311 steps of the
( Monument
Standing at 61-m (202-ft), this
Leadenhall Market building
for trendy shops,
restaurants and bars. Have
monument by Sir Christopher a delicious lunch at Luc’s
Wren offers panoramic views of Brasserie in the market.
the City of London. The height of
this free-standing stone column Afternoon
is equal to its distance from the After lunch, see the City’s
baker’s shop in Pudding Lane historic financial buildings
along Cornhill. Notice the
where the Great Fire of London
Royal Exchange building’s
began in 1666 – the event that it grand Corinthian portico
marks. Inside, 311 stairs spiral and hear its carillon of
up to a viewing platform; when bells at 3pm. Opposite is
you return to the entrance, you the Mansion House, the
official residence of the
will receive a certificate to say
Lord Mayor of London. To
that you have made the climb. the north, across Thread-
d Monument Street EC3 • Map H4 • Open needle Street, is the Bank
9:30am–5pm daily • Admission charge of England. Continue into
Lothbury and along
Gresham Street to Guild-
) StNearKatharine Docks
Tower Bridge and the
hall, where you should look
at the medieval Great Hall.
Tower of London, this is the place
to come and relax, to watch the Head up Wood Street to
rich on their yachts and the the Barbican Centre (see
p135) for tea by the lake at
working sailors on the Thames
the Waterside Café. Check
barges. There are several cafés, the programme for the
the Dickens Inn and a number day’s events and maybe
of popular bars and restaurants take in a performance.
(see p71). d E1 • Map H4
137
Around Town – the City
@ StOneBartholomew-the-Great
of London’s oldest
Sun • Free
$ St Sepulchre-without-
Newgate
Baroque). Lunchtime concerts are
held on Mon and Fri. d Gresham
The largest church in the City Street EC2 • Map R2 • Open 10am–3pm
after St Paul’s, St Sepulchre is Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri • Free
famous for its peal of 12 bells.
Recitals are held on Wednesdays.
d Holborn Viaduct EC1 • Map Q1 • Open ) StBeautiful
Lawrence Jewry
stained glass win-
2–5pm daily, 11am–5pm Wed • Free dows of historic figures are the
highlight here. d Guildhall EC2 • Map
% StOneKatharine Cree
of eight churches to
R2 • Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri • Free
$
/ '(56*$7(
'BSSJOHEPO
Handel both played on its organ. -JWFSQPPM
2
%,6+
4USFFU
/2 1'21:$// /21'
d Leadenhall Street EC3 • Map H3 21:$/
/
$7(
1(:
*$7 "MEHBUF
6*
(
• Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, Holy 4U1BVMT #BOL
23
67
%, 6+
& +(
$3 6 , '
(
Communion on Thu • Free &2 5 1 +, // /($'(1+$//67
&$
.BOTJPO 1 12
1675
(( 7 5PXFS
)PVTF
)JMM
$ Sweetings
This is a lunchtime haven
d Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street EC2
• Map H3 • 020 7877 7842 • £££££
for fish lovers. Starters such as
$
/'(56*$7(
'BSSJOHEPO
include bread-and-butter pudding.
%,6+
1(
$7(
:*
$7(
6*
#BOL
• 020 7248 3062 • No credit cards • ££££ 6 7
23
& +(
%, 6+
$3 6 , '
(
&2 5 1+ ,// /($'(1+$//67 "MEHBUF
&$
1 12
.POVNFOU 5PXFS
)JMM
gallery of the City’s Royal
Exchange. d Royal Exchange EC3
• Map H3 • 020 7618 2483 • £££££
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and 139
serve vegetarian meals. Many City restaurants close at weekends.
Around Town – Heading North
Left View over London from Hampstead Heath Right Camden Lock Market
Heading North
+ $ 0 3 67 ( $ ' / $1 (
+LJKJDWH
+,*
+*
$7 (
+ ,*+
67
6 : $,
$'
52
1 6 / $1 (
6
5'
1 ,$
)BNQTUFBE
Site of the well on
6 3$
)FBUI
'DUWPRXWK
3DUN
+,
+ ( $7
Sights
*+
( $ 67 + (
*$
$7
+ 67
+
7(
5 1BSMJBNFOU
5 2
2$
' 1 Camden
)JMM
$'
)BNQTUFBE
Markets
)BNQTUFBE (PTQFM0BL
)FBUI
+DPSVWHDG 2 Hampstead Heath
*RVSHO and Parliament Hill
+$ 2DN
9(
56 3 Keats House
),7=
72
&.
- 2+ 1
.HQWLVK
4 Freud Museum
#FMTJ[F1BSL
ŝ 6 $9 ( 1 8 (
7RZQ 5 Kenwood
+,
'JODIMFZ //
3PBE House
%HOVL]H $
3DUN 6 Burgh House
$
),1
$
&+
7 Fenton House
/( <
$IBML'BSN
5
8 2 Willow Road
'
4XJTT$PUUBHF
4PVUI
)BNQTUFBE 1SJNSPTF $BNEFO 9 Lauderdale
5PXO House
)JMM
&DPGHQ
6W-RKQV
:RRG 7RZQ 0 Highgate
Cemetery
NJMFT LN
£ Keats House
Keats Grove, off Downshire
Hill, is one of the loveliest areas
of Hampstead. The house where
Hampstead Heath the poet John Keats wrote much
of his work is a pretty white villa,
! Camden Markets
The most exciting North
containing facsimiles of his fragile
manuscripts and letters, as well
London markets are open every as some personal possessions.
weekend, and linked by the busy Poetry readings and talks take
and colourful Camden High place regularly (see p52). d Keats
Street. Camden Market, near Grove NW3 • Train Hampstead Heath,
the tube station, is packed with tube Hampstead or Belsize Park • For
stalls selling clothes, shoes and opening times see www.cityoflondon.gov.
jewellery. Further up the road, by uk • Admission charge
the canal, Camden Lock Market
focuses on crafts and ethnic
goods. Stalls in the warehouses $ Freud Museum
Sigmund Freud, the founder
of Stables Market have great food of psychoanalysis, and his daugh-
on sale. Open weekends only ter Anna, came to live here when
between 8am and 6pm (see he fled Nazi-occupied Vienna. The
p65). d Camden High Street & Chalk house contains Freud’s collection
Farm Road NW1 • Tube Camden Town of antiques, his library, including
first editions of his own works,
141
% Kenwood House
This magnificent mansion,
Hampstead Wells
Hampstead’s heyday began in the
filled with Old Masters, is set early 18th century, when a spring
in an idyllic lakeside estate on in Well Walk was recognized as
the edge of Hampstead Heath. having medicinal properties. This
Around Town – Heading North
^ Burgh House
Built in 1703, Burgh House
d Hampstead Grove NW3 • Tube Hamp-
stead • Open Mar–Nov: 2–5pm Wed–Fri,
houses Hampstead Museum, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun • Admission charge
which has a good selection of
local books and a map of the
famous people who have lived * 2Designed
Willow Road
in 1939 by the
in the area. The panelled music architect Ernö Goldfinger for
room is used for art exhibitions, himself and his wife, the artist
concerts and meetings, and Ursula Blackwell, this is one of
there is a pleasant café with the most important examples
garden tables. d New End Square of modern architecture in the
NW3 • Tube Hampstead • Open noon– UK. A film helps put the life and
5pm Wed–Fri, Sun • Free times of the couple in context.
Goldfinger designed all the
142
Exploring the North
Morning
Starting at Hampstead
tube station, head left
143
Around Town – Heading North
£ Almeida Theatre
This famous local theatre * Hampstead Theatre
This important fringe
attracts the best actors and theatre is a venue for ambitious
directors from the UK and the US. new writing, and has produced
The bar serves cocktails and light plays by such innovative British
meals and snacks. d Almeida Street artists as Harold Pinter, Michael
N1 • Tube Angel or Highbury & Islington Frayn and Mike Leigh. d Eton
• 020 7359 4404 • www.almeida.co.uk Avenue NW3 • Tube Swiss Cottage (exit
2) • 020 7722 9301
$ Alexandra Palace
Located in a beautiful park,
( Regent’s Park Golf and
this reconstructed 1873 exhibi- Tennis School
tion centre offers a range of This floodlit facility is open
amusements, including regular for golf and tennis from 8am–
antique fairs. Tours of the 1920s 9pm daily. d Outer Circle, Regent’s
BBC studios may be booked. Park NW1 • Tube Camden Town • 020
d Tube Wood Green • BBC tours: 020 7724 0643
8365 2121
@ Manna
Global vegan cuisine is & Rotunda
A classy restaurant with fine
served with style in this modern views of the Battlebridge Basin.
restaurant with a welcoming Try the roast loin of lamb with
ambience. Seasonal menus. d 4 confit cabbage and dauphinoise
Erskine Road, Primrose Hill NW3 • Tube potatoes; the meat is sourced
Chalk Farm • 020 7722 8028 • ££££ from their own farm. d 90 York Way
N1 • Map E1 • 020 7014 2840 • ££££
* Louis Patisserie
British greasy spoon, this café This wonderful old tea room
serves sausages and mash as is part of Hampstead folklore.
well as other comfort food made Sink into a comfortable sofa and
from quality ingredients. Choose sample some of the tempting
from over half a dozen varieties, cakes on display in the window.
from traditional pork to steak and d 32 Heath Street NW3 • Tube
guiness sausages. d 4–6 Essex Hampstead • 020 7435 9908 • £
Road N1 • Map G1 • 020 7359 5361 • ££
% Camino
Offering tapas and great
Hampstead Heath, this is one
of London’s most famous old
cocktails as well as Spanish pubs. Traditional English pub
wines, sherries and traditional ci- food is mingled with more exotic
der, Camino is a welcome addi- choices such as calamari (squid).
tion to King’s Cross. d 3 Varnisher’s d Spaniards Road NW3 • 020 8731 6571
Yard N1 • Map E1 • 020 7841 7331 • £££ • Tube Hampstead, Golders Green • ££
Left Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich Right Deer in Richmond Park
Sights
1 Hampton Court 6 Chiswick House
2 Greenwich 7 Horniman Museum
and Gardens
3 Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew 8 Syon House and Park
4 Richmond 9 Ham House
5 Dulwich Picture 0 Wimbledon Lawn
Gallery Tennis Museum
Carving over entrance to
remains of Richmond Palace
/DPEHWK
$
+DPPHUVPLWK
0
$
$IJTXJDL (SFFOXJDI
#SFOUGPSE )XOKDP $
$
,FX(BSEFOT &DPEHUZHOO /HZLVKDP
3XWQH\
$
3JDINPOE &ODSKDP
$
$ & ,5 & 8 /$ 5
5XJDLFOIBN 7+
8JNCMFEPO 628
3JDINPOE 1BSL 8FTU 'PSFTU
)JMM
$
1BSL %VMXJDI
'XOZLFK
6WUHDWKDP
:LPEOHGRQ
$ 6\GHQKDP
$
$
)BNQUPO .LQJVWRQXSRQ
$PVSU 7KDPHV
NJMFT LN
! Hampton Court
Visiting this historic, royal
selling arts, crafts and antiques.
The old tea clipper, the Cutty
Tudor palace and its extensive Sark (see p71), is being restored
grounds is a popular day out nearby. d Greenwich SE10 • Train to
from London. As well as family Greenwich; DLR Cutty Sark, Greenwich
trails and special exhibitions, • Royal Observatory Greenwich: Open
tours of six separate areas with 10am–5pm daily • Admission charge
costumed or audio guides are
available. Events held here
throughout the year include a £ Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew
week-long music festival in June, This former royal garden holds
which regularly attracts big-name the world’s largest plant collection
performers. In July, the grounds of around 30,000 specimens.
are filled by the world’s largest Kew Palace and Queen Char-
flower show, organized by the lotte’s Cottage (see p54) were
Royal Horticultural Society. A used as residences by George
frequent train service from III, whose mother, Princess
Waterloo takes about half an hour Augusta, laid the first garden
but for a delightfully leisurely trip, here. Take a Kew Explorer Land
catch a boat from Westminster train tour of the gardens – you
Pier, which takes about four hours can get on and off it any time.
(see pp54–5). d East Molesey, Surrey d Kew TW9 • Train & tube Kew Gardens
• Train Hampton Court • Open Apr–Oct: • 020 8332 5655 • Open 9:30am daily;
10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm closing times vary between 4:15–5:30pm
daily (last adm 1 hour before closing) in winter and from 6–7:30pm in summer.
• Admission charge Call for information • Admission charge
Left Hampton Court Centre Clock at Royal Observatory Right Queen Charlotte’s Cottage
148
A Day Exploring
Maritime Greenwich
Morning
Start the day from West-
149
Around Town – South & West
$ The Bush
This off-West End theatre is
Artillery. Hundreds of exhibits as
well as a spectacular multi-media
one of London’s premier show- display. d Royal Arsenal, Woolwich SE18
cases for new writers. d Shepherd’s • Train to Woolwich Arsenal • Open
Bush Green W12 • Tube Shepherd’s Bush 10:30am–5pm Wed–Sun • Admission charge
• 020 8743 5050
$ The Glasshouse
The food is exciting, modern
the usual favourites as well as
more unusual dishes such as
European at this relaxed restau- mud fish sweet and sour soup.
rant. d 14 Station Parade, Kew, Surrey Expect liberal use of chilli and
• Tube Kew Gardens • 020 8940 6777 spices. d 314 Uxbridge Road W12 • Tube
• No disabled access • ££££ Shepherd’s Bush • 020 8743 8930 • ££
% The Gate
Probably the best vegetarian ) Marco
Marco Pierre White’s
restaurant in London, The Gate is acclaimed restaurant at Chelsea
worth hunting out. The gourmet Football Club offers a Modern
menu changes regularly, and the take on classic English cuisine.
meals are hearty and inventive. The glamorous interior adds to
Closed Sundays. d 51 Queen Caroline the culinary experience. d Stam-
Street W6 • Tube Hammersmith • 020 ford Bridge, Fulham Road SW6 • Tube
8748 6932 • No disabled access • £££ Fulham Broadway • 020 7915 2929 • ££££
Heading East
Sights
1 Canary Wharf 6 Spitalfields
2$ '
$
%RZ
2 $' #FUIOBM
5 (( 1 5 (SFFO $
/*
%/ $
0ME $ %HWKQDO
4USFFU +1 *UHHQ 0LOH(QG
&.:
7
%(
$'
$/ / 7 8 1 1 ( / $
$
$
00
'
( 5&, $/
-JWFSQPPM 3 ( / 5
&+$
4USFFU ,7( 8IJUFDIBQFM
:+
3 3 52 $
67
"MEHBUF 6WHSQH\
&+
$
&LW\ &BTU
:KLWHFKDSHO & 20 0 (
5 &, $/5 2$'
( $ 67 $
, 1 ' , $ ' 2 & . 5 '
'FODIVSDI
4USFFU 3RSODU
%ODFNZDOO
/RQGRQ 6KDGZHOO 5RWKHUKLWKH 7XQQHO
%ULGJH 7XQQHO
7RZHU $BOBSZ
%ULGJH FT 8IBSG NP
BN
5I 5RWKHUKLWKH
$
S ,VOHRI'RJV
3JW F
NJMFT LN
152
area for kids; Sailortown, an
atmospheric re-creation of 19th
century riverside Wapping; and
London, Sugar & Slavery, which
reveals the city’s involvement in
£ Hoxton
If you want to see the latest
in British contemporary art, then
this is the place to come. Hoxton
Vaulted glass roof, Canary Wharf DLR station Square is home to the White Cube
gallery, where many of the now
! Canary Wharf
The centrepiece of the Dock-
established contemporary artists,
known as the YBAs (Young British
lands development is Canary Artists), such as Damien Hirst,
Wharf and the 240-m (800-ft) -high, Sarah Lucas and Tracey Emin, first
50-storey Canada Tower designed made their names. Acrobats and
by the US architect, Cesar Pelli. aerial performers put on shows at
The tower is not open to the Circus Space on the north side of
public but parts of the complex Hoxton Market. Cafés and eateries
are, including the mall, with include the Hoxton Square Kitchen
shops, restaurants and bars. and Bar and the Real Greek (see
The star of the area’s exciting p157). d Tube Old Street
architecture is the stunning Canary
Wharf station, designed by Norman
Foster. d Tube & DLR Canary Wharf $ Whitechapel Gallery
This excellent gallery has a
reputation for showing cutting-
@ Museum of London
Docklands
edge contemporary art from
around the world. The gallery has
Set in a historic warehouse, this launched the careers of David
museum explores the history of Hockney, Gilbert and George and
London’s river, port and people. Anthony Caro. Behind the Arts
A wealth of objects is on display, and Crafts façade there is a
from whale bones to WWII gas bookshop, café and restaurant.
masks, in state-of-the-art galleries. d Whitechapel High Street E1 • Map H3
Don’t miss Mudlarks, an interactive • Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (Thu 9pm)
153
% V&A Museum of
Childhood
The Huguenots in London
Driven from France in 1685, the
Everyone will find something to Huguenots were Protestants
delight them here: from dolls and fleeing religious persecution by
teddy bears to train sets and Catholics. They were mostly silk
Around Town – Heading East
Left Georgian terrace, Fournier Street Right Dining room, Geffrye Museum
154
A Day Around the
East End
Morning
Start at Old Spitalfields
@ Victoria Park
One of East London’s largest
public concerts. d Canary Wharf E14
• DLR Canary Wharf • 020 7418 2782
and most pleasant parks. There
are two lakes, where model boats
are sailed at weekends, ornamen- & Docklands Sailing &
Watersports Centre
tal gardens, a children’s zoo, Enjoy sailing, rowing and canoe-
tennis courts and a bowling ing facilities here. d Millwall Dock,
green. d Bow E9 • Tube Bethnal Green Westferry Road E14 • DLR Crossharbour
• 020 7537 2626 • www.dswc.org
$ Sutton House
This Tudor merchant’s house ) Mile End Park
For skateboarders, BMX
dates from 1535 and is one of the riders and rollerbladers. This
oldest in the East End. d 2–4 Homer- park also has a go-kart track, an
ton High Street E9 • Tube Bethnal Green, Ecology Park and Children’s Play
then 253 bus • 020 8986 2264 • Open Park. d Mile End Road E3 • Tube Mile
Thu–Sun and Bank Holiday Mondays End • 020 7264 4660 (Environment Trust)
156
Price Categories
For a three-course £ under £15
meal for one with half ££ £15–£25
a bottle of wine (or £££ £25–£35
equivalent meal), taxes ££££ £35–£50
and extra charges. £££££ over £50
LONDON’S TOP 10
161
Getting Around
162
Sources of Information
163
London for the
Disabled
164
Banking &
Communications
165
Security & Health
166
Excursions from
London
167
Trips & Tours
168
Avoiding the Crowds
169
Shopping Tips
170
London on a Budget
171
Hotels
172–179
Streetsmart
Arriving in London
! Heathrow Airport Luton Airport
London’s main airport $ This airport is 31 * St Pancras
International
is 15 miles (24 km) west miles (50 km) north of Home to over 50 shops,
of central London. The London. A shuttle bus bars and restaurants –
Heathrow Express train connects the airport to including Europe’s longest
to Paddington is the quick- Luton Parkway station, champagne bar – this is
est way into the centre, from which various trains the place to arrive in
taking 15 to 20 minutes. go to St Pancras taking London via Eurostar.
Trains run from 5am until around 20 minutes. Trains take under 2 hours
about 11pm daily. Taxis Green Line operates a from Brussels or 2 hours
take an hour or more, coach service to central 15 minutes from Paris.
depending on traffic, and London. d Luton d St Pancras International •
are very expensive. Cheap information: 01582 405 100 Map E2 • Eurostar enquiries
options include the tube • www.london-luton.co.uk and reservations: 08432
(Piccadilly line) or National 186 186 • www.eurostar.
Express coach into the
centre. d Heathrow infor- % London
Airport
City com, www.stpancras.com
161
Streetsmart
Getting Around
! The Underground Pre-paid Travel
London’s underground $ Passes
a firm’s office. Never
pick one up on the
train network, or “tube”, One-day and weekend street, or from one of the
is the fastest way to get Travelcards are economi- unofficial offices in Soho,
around town, but trains cal if you make more than as they are likely to be
are crowded during rush- two trips by public trans- uninsured. “Lady Mini-
hour. Lines are colour- port in a day. They can be cabs” have only women
coded and easy to follow bought at tube stations or drivers. d Lady Minicabs:
on the map on the back newsagents, and are valid 020 7272 3300
cover of this book. Trains on the Underground, • www.ladyminicabs.co.uk
run from around 5:30am some overground trains,
to midnight, with fares
based on the six zones
buses and the DLR, on
weekdays after 9:30am. * Car Rental
Car rental is not cheap
into which the network Oyster cards and weekly in the United Kingdom
is divided. Zone 1 and monthly Travelcards and the rates are similar
covers Central London. are also available: for a among the larger com-
d Transport for London: 020 monthly pass you need panies. Europcar and
7222 1234 • www.tfl.gov.uk a passport-sized photo. Thrifty are most likely to
offer deals. Drivers must
@ London Buses
Slower than the tube % Rail Travel
Suburban and intercity
show a valid licence and
be aged 21 or even 24.
but a cheaper way to travel is served through d Europcar: 0845 758 5375
travel, buses are also a the 10 main London • Thrifty: 01494 751500
good way of seeing the termini. Rail travel is
city as you go. To travel
in the city between
expensive and the fare
structures complicated. ( Cycle Rental
You need a strong
midnight and 6am, you Planning ahead for long nerve to cycle in London’s
will need a night bus. journeys is advisable busy traffic, but it can be
Most night buses may be and may save money. a great way to see the
picked up at bus stops d National Rail Enquiries: city. Lock up bikes as
around Trafalgar Square 08457 484950 • www. theft is common. There is
and the West End. nationalrail.co.uk a choice of bicycle rental
companies in London.
£ Docklands Light
Railway (DLR) ^ Taxis
London’s black cabs
d London Bicycle Tour
Company: 020 7928 6838
The automated overland can be hailed anywhere; • On Your Bike: 020 7378 6669
railway serving Docklands their “For Hire” sign is lit
has two branches, one
that heads south to
up when they are free.
You can also find them at ) London on Foot
Walking is a rewarding
Greenwich and Lewisham railway stations, airports option in London. The
and the other to Wool- and taxi ranks. A 10 per centre of the capital is
wich, Arsenal. It is linked cent tip is customary. not large, and you will be
to the Underground Black cabs can be ordered surprised at how short
network at Bank, Tower in advance from Radio the distance usually is
Gateway (near Tower Hill) Taxis and Dial-a-Cab. between two points that
and other points. Outside d Dial-a-Cab: 020 7253 5000 seem quite far apart
rush hour, it is a pleasant • Radio Taxis: 020 7272 0272 when travelled by tube.
way of seeing this Traffic drives on the left
regenerated area of
the East End. d Transport & Minicabs
Only obtain a minicab
in the UK, so take care
when crossing the road,
for London: www.tfl.gov.uk by telephone or by visiting and watch for light signals.
Sources of Information
! London
Board
Tourist
$ Restaurant
Services
Standard’s website www.
thisislondon.co.uk is also
Visit London is the official This organization (in bus- helpful. Visit London
tourist organisation for iness since 1979) will (London’s Tourist Board)
London and has a range find you a restaurant and publishes useful guides
of services for visitors to reserve a table for you if on accommodation and
the capital, including a you book through their activities in the capital.
useful accommodation website, call or e-mail
booking scheme. Their
website gives a number
your requirements to
them. They have a com- * Weather
London’s weather is
of options. d Visit London: prehensive database and unpredictable, but if you
020 7234 5800 • www. will try to meet your want to check ahead
visitlondon.com needs. There is no charge. phone Weathercall for an
d 020 8888 8080 • www. up-to-the minute fore-
@ Tourist
Centres
Information restaurant-services.co.uk cast. There are also regu-
lar weather forecasts for
Offering advice on any-
thing and everything % Television
Apart from satellite
the capital and other re-
gions on radio and
from day trips and guided and digital television, television. d Weathercall:
tours to accommodation, there are five terrestrial 0906 850 0401 • www.
you will find these Visitor channels in the UK: two weathercall.co.uk
Centres at 1 Lower run as public service
Regent Street W1, on
level 2 of Tate Modern
channels by the BBC
(BBC1 and BBC2), and ( Britain and
London Visitor
and in Greenwich, at the three commercial Centre (BLVC)
Pepys House SE10. channels (ITV, Channel 4 Here you will find a vast
They stock free leaflets and Channel 5). Ceefax amount of information on
on current events and and Teletext are text London and the rest of
attractions. The City of programmes on these the country, with advice
London Information channels, giving travel on accommodation,
Centre (opposite St and weather updates. travel, attractions and
Paul’s Cathedral in activities. As well as the
EC4) is also useful.
^ Radio
London radio stations
Visitor Centre in Regent
Street, there is a good
Accommodation bring constant news and website. d 1 Lower Regent
£ Pre-paid hotel reser- travel updates for the Street W1 • 0870 156 6366
vations booked through capital. They include BBC • Map J2 • Open daily
Visit London are guaran- London Live (94.9 FM), • www.visitbritain.com
teed to be the lowest Capital FM (95.8 FM) and
rate you can find. If
paying by credit card, you
LBC (97.3 FM).
) London Lesbian &
Gay Switchboard
can use their hotel book- Publications This telephone helpline
ing service online. You & For current events provides information,
can also book in person in London, see the daily support and a referral
at centres in Victoria and papers, particularly the service for lesbians and
Liverpool Street stations, Evening Standard (the gay men. They can give
and at Heathrow. d Visit capital’s free evening advice on services,
London Accommodation paper), and Time Out, the organisations and
Booking Service: 0871 222 weekly listings magazine, entertainment venues.
3118 • www.visitlondon which includes activities d 020 7837 7324
offers.com for children. The Evening • www.queery.org.uk
163
Streetsmart
Left Bow Street police station, Covent Garden Centre Mounted police Right Boots pharmacy
166
Streetsmart
Left Punting, River Cam, Cambridge Right Palace Pier, Brighton beach
167
Streetsmart
Left Westfield Shopping Centre Centre Harrods Right Covent Garden Central Market
Shopping Tips
! Shopping Areas
There are many great
damaged (this isn’t always
the case with sale items).
End stores (Selfridges,
John Lewis, Liberty,
places to shop in London, Always keep receipts so Harvey Nichols, Harrods
with some areas special- you can return any see pp64–5) have gift
izing in particular things. unsatisfactory items. departments with bright
Covent Garden has the ideas. Elsewhere around
most up-to-the-minute
clothes, shoes, jewellery % Sales
Large stores and
the city, there are shops
selling designer jewellery,
and gifts; Oxford Street is many fashion outlets pottery, ceramics and
best for large department usually have end-of- household goods, many
stores, music, and season sales in January of which are designed
cheaper fashion; Bond and July when there in the UK. The main
Street and Knightsbridge are enormous savings museums, galleries and
are where you will find on many items, from tourist sites all have
all the most expensive furniture to fashions. interesting gift stores.
designer labels and goods;
Mayfair and St James’s
have the best art and ^ Fashion
Big-label fashion ( Art and Antiques
The major commercial
antiques dealers. houses are in Bond Street, galleries are in the West
Knightsbridge and Sloane End, around Bond Street
@ Shopping Hours
Shops generally open
Street. Bespoke wear for
men is in Savile Row and
and Cork Street (see p116).
Bonhams and Sotheby’s
9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, St James’s. Oxford Street (see p114) auction houses
with late-night shopping is good for mid-range are here, too. You can
until 8pm in the West End clothes. For street fashion, find inexpensive art and
on Thursdays, and in try the markets: Camden craft throughout London.
Kensington and Chelsea (see p141), Portobello (see All kinds of antiques can
on Wednesdays. Sunday p120), Petticoat Lane and be sought out in Porto-
has limited trading hours. Spitalfields (see p154). bello Road, Kensington
Church Street and King’s
£ Payment
Most shops accept & Music
London is one of the
Road (Chelsea).
London on a Budget
! Accommodation
There are several
more than twice. An
International Student
standing tickets from
£4–£14. The Prince Charles
youth hostels in London, Card (ISIC) offers reduced- cinema in Leicester Place
and universities offer price entry to many is the cheapest one in
rooms from June to museums. Look out for central London.
September. International free lunchtime lectures.
Students House has
* Fashion
year-round rooms. There
are also many cheap % Street
Entertainment
Pick up barely worn,
designer clothes at a
bed and breakfasts Covent Garden is the dress agency (try The
(see p179). best place for day-long Loft, 35 Monmouth St
entertainment, and there’s WC2; L’Homme Designer
@ Travel
Buses are cheaper
always someone to look
at or listen to in Leicester
Exchange, 50 Blandford
St W1).
than the tube (Under- Square. At weekends
ground), but they do
usually take longer. If you
artists hang their work
up on the railings in ( Markets
London’s markets
are making more than Piccadilly outside Green have bargain antiques,
two tube journeys in a Park, and by Hyde Park fashions, jewellery and
day, Travel Cards are on Bayswater Road. cheap food (see pp64–5).
good value. They are also
valid on buses and the
Docklands Light Railway. ^ Free Music
London is awash ) Parks
London’s parks offer
Pre-Pay Oyster cards with free music. Free endless free entertain-
also save you money lunchtime concerts are ment, whether watching
(see p162). held in churches and at sports in Regent’s Park
the music colleges (in or listening to bands at
£ Eating
It’s quite possible to
term time). Performances
also take place at the
St James’s Park band-
stand (see pp28–9).
eat a two-course meal Southbank Centre and
with a drink and coffee for at the National Theatre, Directory
under £20 in many places the National Gallery, and
in London. Chinese and in malls such as Hays London Hostel Assoc
Indian restaurants are Galleria and Canary Wharf. 54 Eccleston Square
often inexpensive, and SW1 • 020 7727 5665
many churches have
cheap lunchtime cafés. & Cheap Tickets
The best place for
Youth Hostels Assoc
Trevelyan Hse, Dimple
Expensive restaurants these is the half-price Rd, Matlock, Derbyshire
can become affordable ticket booth called DE4 3YH • 01629 592
with set-lunch or pre- “Tkts”, located on the 700 • www.yha.org.uk
theatre menus. southside of Leicester
Square, which sells International
Museums and tickets for performances Students House
$ Galleries on that day only. “Fringe” 229 Gt Portland Street
Some museums are theatres outside the W1 • 020 7631 8300
free. Others have free West End (often in London Bed &
late afternoon or evening pubs) are considerably Breakfast Agency
entry. Special deals can cheaper. On Mondays, 71 Fellows Road NW3
mean that buying a all seats are £10 at the • 020 7586 2768
season ticket makes Royal Court. The Royal • www.londonbb.com
sense if you want to visit Opera House has
171
Streetsmart
Inexpensive Hotels
! Travel Inn London
County Hall
It is close to Victoria
station and all rooms are
ground-floor is an
American-style bar (not
London’s best budget comfortably furnished, owned by the hotel) run
hotel has a memorable four with private by New Yorker Janet
location in County Hall bathrooms. d 120 Ebury Evans, which serves
near the river and the Street SW1 • Map D5 great cocktails. d 30–2
London Eye. Facilities are • 020 7730 2384 • www. Old Brompton Road SW7
more than adequate, morganhouse.co.uk • ££ • Map C5 • 020 7584 4517
with fold-out beds for • www.bromhotel.com • ££
children in each of the
% Lancaster
Court Hotel
313 rooms. Book well in
advance. d Belvedere Between Paddington * Morgan Hotel
This cheerful family-
Road SE1 • Map N6 station and Hyde Park, run hotel is long estab-
• 0870 242 8000 • www. Sussex Gardens is a lished. Several rooms
premierinn.com • £££ quiet, pleasant street overlook the British
lined with inexpensive Museum and all have air-
@ Columbia Hotel
The Columbia has a
hotels. Lancaster Court
is just a few minutes
conditioning. The cosy
breakfast area has framed
delightful leafy setting walk from Hyde Park. London memorabilia on
overlooking Kensington d 202–4 Sussex Gardens the walls. d 24 Bloomsbury
Gardens. Originally five W2 • Map B3 • 020 7402 Street WC1 • Map L1
mansions, and once used 8438 • www.lancaster- • 020 7636 3735 • www.
as a US military officers’ court-hotel.co.uk • ££ morganhotel.com • £££
club, it has magnificent
rooms and is much more
opulent than its prices ^ Craven
Gardens Hotel ( Elizabeth Hotel
This handsome town
suggest. d 95–9 Lancaster Located in a quiet, house overlooks a quiet,
Gate W2 • Map B3 • 020 upmarket part of town, private square, which is
7402 0021 • www.columbia this privately run hotel available for guests’ use.
hotel.co.uk • ££ has 43 bedrooms and It is close to Victoria
two executive suites, station, and has single,
£ Fielding Hotel
Ideally situated for
with 24-hour service,
coffee- and tea-making
double, triples and family
rooms. d 37 Eccleston
Covent Garden, this facilities in the rooms Square SW1 • Map D5
quaint room-only hotel is and a bar. It has no • 020 7828 6812 • www.
a warren of oddly shaped restaurant but there is a elizabethhotel.com • ££
rooms, with showers and good Greek taverna just
basins tucked in corners.
Outside there is all of
a few yards away. d 16
Leinster Terrace W2 • Map ) Arran
Hotel
House
Covent Garden to break- B3 • 020 7262 3167 • www. This friendly family-run
fast in. d 4 Broad Court, smartbackpackers.com • ££ hotel is conveniently
Bow St WC2 • Map M2 located a short walking
• 020 7836 8305 • £££ •
www.the-fielding-hotel.co.uk & Brompton Hotel
Situated just by
distance from the British
Museum, Oxford Street
South Kensington tube and the West End. 24-
$ Morgan
Guest House
station and handy for the
museums, this typical
hour Internet facilities and
a walled summer rose
This stylish budget B&B west London hotel has garden. d 77–79 Gower
in a Georgian terrace in comfortable rooms with Street WC1 • Map E2 • 020
fashionable Belgravia has bathrooms. Reception is 7636 2186 • www.london-
light, modern decor. on the first floor. On the hotel.co.uk • £££
Streetsmart
Royal Garden Hotel
Mid-price Hotels
! Bedford Hotel
One of six large, % Cranley
Gardens Hotel
North Marylebone is run
by two former fashion
good-value Bloomsbury Occuping four large models who have styled
hotels run by Imperial Victorian mansions, this the seven rooms taste-
London Hotels, the is one of the best of the fully and individually. A
Bedford’s advantage is many South Kensington roof terrace and a house-
a good restaurant and a town-house hotels. Over- keeper are just two of
sunny lounge and garden. looking a quiet square the attractions on offer
d 83 Southampton Row (some rooms have bal- here. d 9 Ashbridge Street
WC1 • Map M1 • 020 7636 conies), this is a relaxed NW8 • Map B2 • 020 7725
7822 • www.imperialhotels. and friendly place to stay. 9694 • www.weardowney.
co.uk • £££ d 8 Cranley Gardens SW7 com • ££
• Map B6 • 020 7373 3232
@ Zetter
Modern and fun, this
• www.cranleygardenhotel.
com • ££ ( Royal
Hotel
Garden
Designer Hotels
! Sanderson
London’s most stylish
and attentive staff. The
rooms are light and feng- * The Hempel
When you walk into
hotel is cool, minimalist shui assured, with white this dazzling white, Zen-
and thrillingly expensive. orchids, fishtanks and inspired hotel, you’ll think
Behind a 1950s office- candles for decoration. you’ve reached Nirvana.
block exterior, plain walls d 11–13 Bayley Street Immaculate and stylish,
are punctuated by Dali- WC1 • Map L1 • 020 3004 it has a central atrium
lips and Louis XV sofas, 6000 • www.myhotels. from which five floors
while wafting curtains com • ££££ radiate. Each room is
and oil paintings decorate individually designed in a
the ceilings of the sparse
bedrooms. Facilities in- % Charlotte
Hotel
Street minimal Japanese style.
The restaurant serves
clude a gym and spa. Try One of the most tasteful European cuisine. d 31–5
the special break deals. and comfortable hotels in Craven Hill Gardens W2
d 50 Berners Street W1 London, where leather • Map B3 • 020 7298 9000
• Map K1 • 020 7300 1400 armchairs and antiques • www.the-hempel.co.uk
• www.sandersonlondon. mix with contemporary • £££££
com • £££££ works of art, and log fires
burn in the drawing room
( Metropolitan
@ One Aldwych
In a former 1907
and library. The bustling
Oscar bar and brasserie
Contemporary and
stylish, this was one of
newspaper building, this attract Charlotte Street the first of the classy
is a relaxing designer hotel diners. d 15 Charlotte modern hotels in London,
with art-filled lobby and Street W1 • Map K1 • 020 with black-clad staff,
corridors, two good restau- 7806 2000 • www.charlotte cool interiors and chic
rants and an 18-m (56-ft) streethotel.com • £££££ bedrooms. Go celebrity-
pool with underwater spotting in the Met Bar or
music. d Aldwych WC2
• Map N2 • 020 7300 1000 ^ Mercure London
City Bankside
in Nobu, its fashionable
Japanese restaurant (see
• www.onealdwych.com Just a stone’s throw from p117). d Old Park Lane W1
• £££££ Tate Modern, this seven- • Map D4 • 020 7447 1000
storey hotel has pay TV • www.metropolitan.london.
£ St Martins Lane
The Sanderson’s
and a four-star restaurant.
d 75 Southwark Street SE1
como.bz • £££££
Streetsmart
Left Marriott Right Tower Hotel
Business Hotels
! Andaz
Street
Liverpool needs and there is a
good northern Italian & Sheraton
Tower
Park
Four Seasons
of west London north of
Kensington Gardens, this ) City Hotel
Just off Whitechapel
£ Hotel Best Western hotel has High Street, at the bottom
As smart and stylish as 200 comfortable, spacious of Brick Lane (see p154),
you would expect from rooms, an inexpensive this hotel is ideal for busin-
a new Canary Wharf restaurant for residents ess travellers who wish
hotel, the Four Seasons and a pleasant lounge bar. to be close to the City.
has a central atrium and d 27 Devonshire Terrace d 12 Osborn Street E1
good sense of space. W2 • Map B3 • 020 7745 • Tube Aldgate East • 020
Rooms are all well 1200 • www.paddington 7247 3313 • www.cityhotel
equipped for business court.com • £££ london.co.uk • ££££
175
Streetsmart
Character Hotels
! Hazlitt’s
As much a literary
four-poster beds. Break-
fasts are generous and * Portobello Hotel
Full of character, full
event as a hotel, Hazlitt’s there’s a free bar. of junk, with each room
is located in the former d 111a Westbourne Grove individually and tastefully
townhouse of essayist W2 • Map A3 • 020 7243 cluttered, this is the kind
William Hazlitt (1778– 1024 • www.millershotel. of hotel you would hope
1830). The hotel’s literary com • ££££ to find near London’s
feel is enhanced by its great antiques market.
library of books signed
by the many authors that % The Academy
This charming Blooms-
Food in the restaurant is
prepared by the nearby
have stayed here. d 6 bury hideaway occupies Julie’s wine bar. d 22
Frith Street W1 • Map L2 five Georgian houses. The Stanley Gardens W11
• 020 7434 1771 • www. rooms are individually • Map A4 • 020 7727 2777
hazlittshotel.com • £££££ designed and there is a • www.portobello-hotel.
library, a conservatory co.uk • £££££
@ Durrants Hotel and pleasant gardens.
This Georgian hotel,
close to Marylebone
d 21 Gower Street WC1
• Map E2 • 020 7631 4115 ( The Rookery
A warren of rooms
High Street and Oxford • www.theetoncollection. has been linked together
Street, has been in com/academy • £££–££££ to create a brilliant hotel
business since 1790. It that evokes Victorian
has a comfortable, old-
fashioned style, with oak- ^ Blakes Hotel
A Victorian delight,
London, with a Gothic
touch. It takes its name
panelled rooms, paintings with sumptuous cushions from the gang of thieves
on the walls and comfy and drapes, bamboo and who once haunted this
leather seats. d George bird cages, each room is area near Smithfield
Street W1 • Map D3 • 020 individually styled with market. d 12 Peter’s
7935 8131 • www.durrants exotica from all over the Lane, Cowcross Street EC1
hotel.co.uk • £££££ world. The Chinese Room • Map Q1 • 020 7336 0931
bar and restaurant in the • www.rookeryhotel.com
£ Guesthouse West
The modish, minimal-
basement continues the
theme with low seating
• £££££
Notting Hill are equipped • 020 7370 6701 • www. Located in an elegant
with flat-screen TVs and blakeshotels.com • £££££ square near Regent’s
Molton Brown products. Park, this stylish, modern
The restaurant is out-
standing, with a range of & The Gore
Originally opened in
small hotel is decorated
in English country style.
starters, mains, sand- 1892, this hotel retains a It has a contemporary
wiches and salads, as relaxed, fin-de-siècle feel. Italian restaurant, Osteria
well as luscious desserts. Persian rugs, potted palms dell’Orologio, which has
d 163–165 Westbourne and paintings are in keep- live jazz on Fridays. Rooms
Grove W11 • Map A3 • 020 ing with the elegance of are decorated with
7792 9800 • www.guest the building, and rooms antiques (two have four-
housewest.com • ££££ are furnished with posters) and there is a
antiques. The restaurant is pleasant garden. d 39
$ Miller’s Residence
Miller’s is crammed
also recommended. d 190
Queen’s Gate SW7 • Map
Dorset Square NW1
• Map C2 • 020 7723 7874
full of fabulous chan- B5 • 020 7584 6601 • www. • www. dorsetsquare.co.uk
deliers, antiques and gorehotel.com • ££££ • ££££
Streetsmart
Palm Court, Ritz
Luxury Hotels
! The Lanesborough
In London’s most
chandeliers and Louis XVI
furniture. Afternoon tea in
a view over Hyde Park.
d 53 Park Lane, W1
luxurious hotel, the the Palm Court is popular • Map D4 • 020 7629 8888
Regency decoration and the restaurant has a • £££££ • www.thedorches
reaches a peak in Aspleys, garden terrace. ter.com
a Heinz Beck restaurant, d 150 Piccadilly W1 • Map
while all the rooms, with
deep pile carpets and
K3 • 020 7493 8181 • www.
theritzlondon.com • £££££ * Brown’s Hotel
This Mayfair hotel
gleaming mahogany, are was founded in 1837 by
fitted with the latest
entertainment and com- % Covent
Hotel
Garden James Brown, valet to
Lord Byron, to accom-
munications technology. London’s most innovative modate country society
There is also a spa and hotel group is distin- staying in London.
fitness centre. d 1 Hyde guished here by modern Comprising eleven
Park Corner SW1 • Map D4 style and traditional Georgian town houses,
• 020 7259 5599 • www. elegance. Rooms are it has been refurbished
lanesborough. com • £££££ individually designed with great style, while
with luxurious marble retaining its intimacy and
@ Kensington Hotel
Set in London’s
bathrooms. A basement
screening room is a nod
charm. It is also renowned
for its restaurant and
Regency quarter, this to its showbiz guests. English teas. d Albemarle
luxurious townhouse hotel d 10 Monmouth Street Street W1 • Map J4
has 150 stylish rooms WC2 • Map L2 • 020 7806 • 020 7493 6020 • www.
and suites. There is also 1000 • www.firmdalehotels. roccofortecollection.com
a vibrant cocktail bar, com • £££££ • £££££
modern restaurant and
full-service gym. d 109–
113 Queen’s Gate SW7 ^ The Waldorf
Hilton ( The Colonnade
Located in the
• Map B5 • 020 7589 6300 This is one of London’s exclusive residential area
• www.doylecollection.com/ great Edwardian hotels. of Little Venice, this four-
kensington • £££££ A major refurbishment star luxury townhouse
has resulted in a 21st- hotel has 43 individually
£ Savoy
Fortunate in its river-
century interpretation of
this classic hotel. Leisure
designed rooms, most
with four-poster beds
side setting, the Savoy is facilities are excellent. and some with private
London’s top traditional d Aldwych WC2 • Map N3 terraces. d 2 Warrington
hotel and has undergone • 020 7836 2400 • £££££ Crescent W9 • Map B2
extensive refurbishment. • www.hilton.co.uk/waldorf • 020 7286 1052 • www.
Leisure facilities include theetoncollection.com/
a small rooftop pool.
d 1 Savoy Hill, Strand WC2 & The Dorchester
Part of the fabric of
colonnade • £££–£££££
NW3 • Tube Belsize Park of pub food, including Walk directly from
• 0870 242 8000 • www. Sunday lunch. There Gatwick’s North Terminal
premierinn.com • £££ is a conservatory and to this elegant hotel,
garden. Parking available. which has a full range of
£ Richmond
Hotel
Hill d 291 Greenwich High Road
SE10 • Train to Greenwich
facilities. It is linked to
London by the Gatwick
Dating from 1726, this • 020 8293 0037 • www. Express train service.
Georgian mansion at mitregreenwich.com • ££ d Gatwick Airport • 01293
the top of Richmond 567070 • www.sofitel.com
Hill, close to Richmond
Park, has a modern wing. ^ Novotel London
Greenwich
• ££
Streetsmart
Left St Paul’s Youth Hostel Right London City YMCA
Budget Accommodation
! Generator
London
Hostel
% St Christopher’s,
The Village
d Trevelyan House, Dimple
Road, Matlock, Derbyshire
Somewhere between sci- This is the largest of DE4 3YH • Central booking:
fi and industrial chic, this three hostels on this 01629 592 700 • www.yha.
youth-orientated hostel street run by St Christ- org.uk • £
provides budget solutions opher’s Inns. Other
for impecunious travellers.
24-hour Internet facilities,
branches are in Camden,
Greenwich, Shepherd’s * YMCA
There is some nightly
breakfast and walking tour Bush and Hammersmith. accommodation at the
available. d Compton Double rooms or cheaper London City YMCA (8
Place, 37 Tavistock Pl WC1 dormitories are available. Erroll Street EC1) and
• Map E2 • 020 7388 7666 There is a café and bar, Barbican YMCA (Fann
• www.generatorhostels. roof terrace and female- Street EC2). Otherwise
com/london • £ only floor. d 165 Borough try the German YMCA
High Street SE1 • Map G4 (35 Craven Terrace W2)
@ Arosfa
Set in a Georgian
• 020 8600 7500 • www.st-
christophers.co.uk • £
or the Indian YMCA (41
Fitzroy Square W1).
town house, Arosfa has d City 020 7614 5000;
a pleasant garden and en
suite rooms. d 83 Gower ^ Dover
Hostel
Castle Barbican 020 7628 0697;
German 020 7723 9276;
Street WC1 • Map E2 • 020 A privately run hostel Indian 020 7387 0411
7636 2115 • www.arosfa offering value-for-money • www.ymca.org.uk • £
london.com • ££ accommodation for
backpackers, with 60
( Host and Guest
£ Elysée Hotel
In a quiet street
beds in dormitory-style
rooms ranging from 3 to
Service
This agency specializes
opposite one of west 12 persons. Showers, in inexpensive B&B
London’s most attractive breakfast and lock-up accommodation in
corners, Leinster Mews, included in the price. homes in London and
this small hotel is one of Late licensed bar with elsewhere in the UK. A
the cheapest in the area. DJs and bands at two-night minimum stay
Basic but comfortable, weekends. d 6a Great is preferred. d 103 Dawes
there are various size Dover Street SE1 • Map G4 Road SW6 • Map A6 • 020
rooms available, including • 020 7403 7773 • www. 7385 9922 • www.host-
a family room for up to dovercastlehostel.com • £ guest.co.uk • £
five people. d 25–26
Craven Terrace W2 • Map
B3 • 020 7402 7633 • www. & Youth Hostels
Association ) International
Students House
elyseehotel.co.uk • ££ There are seven youth In university holidays,
hostels in London: some student rooms are
$ The Court Hotel
This is a favourite
London Central, Oxford
Street, St Paul’s (Fitz-
available at reasonable
rates. This house, though,
with Australian and South rovia), Holland Park, St has space all year. Dormi-
African backpackers. Basic Pancras, Earl’s Court and tories, single and twin
accommodation is offered Thameside (all en suite). rooms are available at a
in single or shared rooms, Not all do breakfast and range of prices. There is a
and reduced weekly rates most have shared facili- bar, a gym, a restaurant
are available. Internet ties. There are various and a common room.
facilities. d 194–196 Earl’s rooms, including family d 229 Great Portland Street
Court Road SW5 • Map A5 rooms, and cheaper rates W1 • Map J2 • 020 7631
• 020 7373 0027 • £ for under 18s. 8300 • www.ish.org.uk • £
179
General Index
333 Club 59 art galleries (cont.) BBC Broadcasting House
Kenwood House 51, 142 131
A ` 12–13, 50, 91 BBC Promenade Concerts
Abeno Too 105 National Portrait Gallery 66
Index
180
Britain and London Visitor Camden Arts Centre 144 churches (cont.)
Centre 163 Camden Markets 65, 141 The City 138
British Library 107 Cameron, Julia Margaret 15 St Anne and St Agnes
British Museum 6, 8–11, Camino 145 138
48, 109 Canada Tower 16 St Bartholomew-the-
British Museum Shop 110 Canadian High Great 46, 138
Index
Brixton Academy 58 Commission 160 St Bride’s 47
Brixton Jamm 59 Canary Wharf 153 St George’s Church 109
Brixton Market 150 Canela 104 St Katherine Cree 138
Brompton Hotel 172 Canova, Antonio 114 St Lawrence Jewry 138
Brompton Oratory 47, 121 Cantaloupe 157 St Magnus the Martyr
Brontë sisters 14 Canteen 157 137, 138
Brook, Peter 57 Canterbury 167 St Martin-in-the-Fields 46
Brown, Capability 28, 149 Canterbury, Archbishops St Mary-le-Bow 138
Brown’s 115, 116, 177 of 70, 167 St Paul’s Cathedral
Brunswick Centre 109 Cantina Vinopolis 87 7, 16, 40–43
BT Tower car rental 162 St Paul’s Church 101
17, 108 Cargo 59, 157 St Sepulchre-without-
Buckingham Palace Carluccio’s Caffè 111 Newgate 138
7, 26–7, 115 Carlyle, Thomas 53 St Stephen Walbrook 138
budget travel 171 Caro, Anthony 153 Southwark Cathedral 46
Burberry 123 Carpenter’s Arms 151 Temple Church 46
bureaux de change 165 Carracci, Annibale 55 Westminster Abbey 7,
Burgh House 142, 143 Catholic martyrs 38 32–3, 81, 83
Burlington, Lord 148 Cavendish, Lord George 115 Westminster Cathedral
Burlington Arcade 115 Caxton, William 35 47
Busaba Eathai 95 Central Hall 35 Churchill, Winston
buses 162, 168 Changing of the Guard 35, 42, 43, 82, 114
The Bush 150 115 Churchill Arms 124
Bush House 102 Channel crossings 161 Churchill War Rooms 82
Bushy Park 29 Chaplin, Charlie 53 The Cinnamon Club 87
Byron, Lord 15, 63 Charbonnel et Walker 116 The City 134–9
Charity Shops 123 churches 138
C Charles Dickens Museum map 134
Cabot Hall 156 108 restaurants 139
Café Below 139 Charles, Prince of Wales City Jogging Tours 168
Café Boheme 93 43, 54 Clarence House 55
Café de Paris 59 Charles I, King 35, 39, 44 Clarke’s restaurant 76,125
Café Lido 122 Charles II, King Clement VII, Pope 44
Cafe Spice Namaste 157 15, 44, 55, 101, 143, 149 Clink Exhibition 84
cafés Charlotte, Queen 54 Clive, Robert 114–15
Bloomsbury and Charlotte Street Hotel 174 clothing
Fitzrovia 111 Chaucer, Geoffrey 72 shops 170, 171
Covent Garden 104 Chessington World what to pack 160
East London 157 of Adventures 167 Club Gascon 76, 139
Kensington and Chez Bruce 151 coach (long-distance bus)
Knightsbridge 124 Chez Gerard 105 travel 161
Mayfair and St James’s Chicago 60 The Colonnade 177
117 children 68–9, 160 Columbia Hotel 172
Regent’s Park and Chinatown 89, 91 Columbia Road Market 155
Marylebone 133 Chinese New Year 67 communications 165
Soho and the West End Chiswick House 148 Conran, Sir Terence 77
94 Christie’s 122 The Conran Shop 131, 132
Westminster, South churches 46–7 consulates 166
Bank and Southwark 86 All Hallows by the Tower Contemporary Applied Arts
Caffé Caldesi 133 138 110
Caffè Florian 124 All Souls 47 Cook, Captain James 8, 22
Cambridge 167 Brompton Oratory 47, 121 Coq d’Argent 77
181
Coram’s Fields 69 Docklands 45, 152, 153 emergencies 166
Cork and Bottle 93, 94 Docklands Light Railway Emin, Tracey 116, 153
Cork Street galleries (DLR) 162 Emirates Stadium Tours
115, 116 Docklands Sailing & 144
Cornelissen & Son 110 Watersports Centre 156 Endurance 94
The Court Hotel 179 Doggett’s Coat and Badge English National Opera 102
Index
182
Fitzrovia see Bloomsbury George VI, King Hamburger Union 105
and Fitzrovia 33, 36, 39, 55 Ham House 149
Fitzroy Tavern 109, 111 George Inn 62, 86 Hamilton, Sir William 9
Flambard, Ralph de, Gerard, John 38 Hamleys 64
Bishop of Durham 38 Gibbons, Grindling 40 Hampstead Heath 74, 141
Flanagan and Allen 73 Gibbs, James 46 Hampstead Theatre 144
Index
The Flask 145 Gieves and Hawkes 116 Hampstead Village
Floral Street 103 gift shops 170 Guesthouse 178
Florence Nightingale Gilbert and George 153 Hampstead Wells 142
Museum 84 Gillespie, Dizzy 58 Hampton Court 54, 147
Floridita 93 The Glasshouse 151 Handel, George Friedrich
Fontana, Lucio, Spatial Globe Theatre 40, 45, 53, 107, 138
Concept “Waiting” 19 70, 77, 83, 86 Hardy, Thomas 11
Footstool 86 Golden Hind 133 Harrods 64, 120, 123
Forster, EM 11 Golden Hinde 84 Harvard, John 46
Fortnum and Mason 64, Goldfinger, Ernö 142 Harvey Nichols 64, 123
115, 116 Gordon’s Wine Bar 94, 104 Hawksmoor, Nicholas
Fosse, Bob 61 33, 73, 154
The Gore 176
Foster, Norman 11, 153 Hayward Gallery 56, 82
The Goring 177
Four Seasons Hotel 175 Hazlitt’s 176
Gourmet Pizza Company 87
Fournier Street 155 Head, Guy,
Grange Langham Court
Fox 157 Horatio Nelson 15
Hotel 173
Foyles 92 Head of the River Race 67
The Grapes 63
Franklin, Benjamin 46, 53 Heals 109, 110
Great British Beer Festival
health 166
free entertainment 102, 171 67 Heathrow Airport 17, 161
Freightliners Farm 144 Great Court, British Heaven 59
French House 63, 94 Museum 11 helicopter tours 168
French’s Dairy 110 The Great Exhibition The Hempel 174
Freud, Anna 141 (1851) 45 Hendrix, Jimi 53
Freud, Lucian, Great Fire (1666) 44, 48 Henry III, King 33, 36, 37
Girl with a White Dog 21 Greenhouse, The 117 Henry IV, King 36
Freud, Sigmund 52, 141 Green Park 29 Henry VI, King 38, 148
Freud Museum 141 Green Room, The 151 Henry VII, King 15, 32, 33
Freuds 104 Greenwich 147 Henry VIII, King 15, 44, 148
Friends Provident Trophy Greenwich Palace 148 Hampton Court 54
67 Greenwich Park 29 royal parks 29
Fromagerie, La 133 Greer, Germaine 15 St James’s Palace 113
Grey, Lady Jane 37, 38 Tower of London
G Gribble, Herbert 47 36, 37, 38
Gabriel’s Wharf 83, 85 Grosvenor Square 29 Hepworth, Barbara 51
Gainsborough, Thomas 50 Grosz, George, Suicide 19 Highgate Cemetery
Wooded Landscape with Guesthouse West 176 75, 143
a Peasant Resting 20 guided tours 164, 168 Hilton London Stansted
galleries see art galleries Guildhall 136 Airport 178
Gandhi, Mahatma 11, 53 Guildhall Art Gallery 136 Hirst, Damien
gardens see parks and Gun 157 51, 116, 125, 153
gardens Gundolph, Bishop of history 44–5
The Gate 151 Rochester 37 HMV Forum 58
Gatwick Airport 161 Guy Fawkes Night 67 Hockney, David 153
Gauguin, Paul 50 Guy’s Hospital Dental Hogarth, William 53, 107
Geffrye Museum 155 Department 166 Holbein, Hans
Generator Hostel London Gwynne, Nell 101, 143 The Ambassadors 12
179 The Whitehall Mural 15
George I, King 45, 109 H Holiday Inn Express 175
George III, King Hakkasan 76, 111 holidays, public 169
54, 107, 147 Halkin 174 Holland Park 121
George IV, King (Prince Hall, Sir Benjamin 34 concerts 122
Regent) 26, 29, 55, 130 Hals, Frans 50, 129 Holly, Buddy 60
183
Holmes, Sherlock 52, 130 James I, King 37 Leeds Castle 167
Horniman, Frederick 148 James, Henry 53 Léger, Fernand,
Horniman Museum 148 James Smith and Son The Acrobat and
Horse Guards 82 110 His Partner 18
horse racing 67 Jarndyce 109, 110 Leicester Square 91
horse riding 75 Jazz After Dark 93 Leighton House 121
Index
184
Magic Wok 125 Mon Plaisir 105 museums (cont.)
Magritte, René, The Monet, Claude 50 Museum of London 48,
Reckless Sleeper 19 Bathers at La 136
Mahler, Gustav 45 Grenouillière 13 Museum of London
Maison Bertaux 91, 94 money 160, 165 Docklands, 153
Malmaison 173 Monmouth Coffee House National Maritime
Index
Mandalay 133 86, 101, 104 Museum 48, 149
Manet, Edouard 50 Monument 137 Natural History Museum
Manna 145 Moore, Henry 51, 74, 142 6, 22–3, 48, 119
Marathon 67 Mother and Child 41 Royal Institution 112,
Marco 151 Pink and Green Sleepers 115
Margaret, Princess 119 21 Royal Mews 27
Market Bar 124 More, Sir Thomas 38 Science Museum 7,
Market Porter 86 Morgan Hotel 172 24–5, 48, 119
markets 6 4–5, 85, 171 Morris, William 64, 119 Sherlock Holmes
Marks & Spencer 132 mosques 131 Museum 130
Marx, Karl 11, 143 The Mousetrap 61 Sir John Soane’s
Mary I, Queen 38 Mozart, Wolfgang A 53 Museum 107
Mary II, Queen 29, 54, 119 Mr Chow, restaurant 125 Sutton House 156
Mary Queen of Scots 33 Mudchute Farm 156 Three Mills Museum
Marylebone Mulberry 116 156
see Regent’s Park Murillo, Bartolomé Tower Bridge
and Marylebone Esteban 51 Exhibition Tour 135
Marylebone Cricket Club museums 48–9 Victoria & Albert
Museum 130 Apsley House 114 Museum 48, 119,
Marylebone Farmers’ Bank of England 121, 122
Market 132 Museum 136–7 V&A Museum of
Marylebone Lane 132 booking ahead 169 Childhood 49, 69,
matinees 169 British Museum 6, 8–11, 152, 154
Matisse, Henri 48, 109 2 Willow Road 142
The Snail 18 budget travel 171 Wimbledon Tennis
Mayfair and St James’s Burgh House 142, 143 Museum 149
112–17 Charles Dickens World Rugby Museum
map 112 Museum 108 150
restaurants 117 Churchill War Rooms 82 music
shops 116 Clink Exhibition 84 free concerts 171
Mazzini, Giuseppe 53 Dennis Severs’ House shops 170
Melia White House 173 156 venues 58–9
membership cards 160 Design Museum 49 musicals 60–61
Mendelssohn, Felix 40 disabled visitors 164 myhotel Bloomsbury 174
Merc 92 Fenton House 142
Mercure London City Firepower 150 N
Bankside 174 Florence Nightingale Nag’s Head 124
Merton Abbey Mills 150 Museum 84 Namco Station 84
Metrogusto 145 Freud Museum 141 Napoleon 89, 114
Metropolitan 174 Geffrye Museum 155 Nash, John
Michelangelo 113, 115 Horniman Museum 148 All Souls 47
Mildenhall Treasure 9 Imperial War Museum Buckingham Palace 26–7
Mile End Park 156 49, 83 Clarence House 55
Millais, John Everett 179 Keats House 141, 143 ICA 57
Millennium 17 Lauderdale House 143 Piccadilly Circus 89
Millennium Bridge 70 Leighton House 121 Regent’s Park 29, 130
Miller’s Residence 176 London Transport National Gallery 6, 12–13,
Milroy’s of Soho 92 Museum 49, 100 50, 91
minicabs 162 Madame Tussaud’s 129, National Maritime
Les Misérables 60 131 Museum 48, 149
Mitre 178 Marylebone Cricket Club National Portrait Gallery 6,
Momo 117 Museum 130 14–15, 50, 91
185
Natural History Museum Palaces 54–5 Philipps, Nicola Jane,
6, 22–3, 48, 119 Buckingham Palace 7, Prince William of Wales;
nature watching 75 26–7, 115 Prince Henry of Wales
Neal’s Yard 100–101 Greenwich Palace 148 15
Neal’s Yard Dairy 101 Hampton Court 54, 147 Phillips, Thomas, George
Neal’s Yard Remedies 100, Kensington Palace 54, Gordon, 6th Lord Byron
Index
186
Pubs (cont.) restaurants 76–7, 169 Royal Garden Hotel 173
Regent’s Park and Bloomsbury and Royal Institution 112, 115
Marylebone 133 Fitzrovia 111 Royal London 54–5
Soho and the West End 94 The City 139 Royal Mews 27
South and West London Covent Garden 105 Royal National Theatre
151 disabled visitors 164 45, 56, 82, 168
Index
Westminster, South Bank East London 157 Royal Opera House
and Southwark 86 Kensington and 45, 56, 99, 101
Pugin, Augustus Welby 34 Knightsbridge 125 royal parks and gardens
Punk 93 Mayfair and St James 117 28–9
Purcell, Henry 45, 138 North London 145 The Royal Trafalgar 173
Regent’s Park and Rugby 67
Q Marylebone 133 Rules 77, 105
Queen Anne’s Gate 55 Soho and the West End rush hours 169
Queen Charlotte’s Cottage 95 Russell, Willy 61
54 South and West London
Queen Elizabeth II Bridge 151 S
17 Westminster, South Sargent, John Singer
Queen Elizabeth Hall Bank and Southwark 87 Carnation, Lily, Lily,
82 Reubens 131, 133 Rose 21
Queen’s Chapel 55 Reynolds, Sir Joshua Sadler’s Wells 57, 144
Queen’s Gallery, 50, 100 safety 166
Buckingham Palace Three Ladies Adorning S&M Cafe 145
26, 51 a Term of Hymen 20 St Anne and St Agnes 138
Queen’s House 55 Reza, Yasmina 61 St Bartholomew-the-Great
Queens Ice Bowl 122 RHS Chelsea Flower 46, 138
Show 66 St Bride’s 47
R Rice, Tim 61 St Christopher’s, The
Racine 125 Richard II, King 14 Village, hostel 179
radio 45, 163 Richard III, King 38 St George’s Church 109
rail travel 161, 162 Richmond 74, 148 St James’s see Mayfair
Raleigh, Sir Walter 15, 35 Richmond Hill Hotel 178 and St James’s
Rasa Samudra 76, 109, 111 Richmond Park 29 St James’s Palace
ravens, Tower of London 37 Rigby & Peller 123 54, 113, 115
The Real Greek 157 Ritz 177 St James’s Park 28, 113, 115
Reformation 44 The River Café 151 Inn the Park café/
Regent’s Canal 74, 130, 168 river sights 70–71, 102, 168 restaurant 113, 115
Regent’s Park Riverside Hotel 178 St John Bread & Wine
29, 55, 129, 130 Riverside Studios 57 155, 157
Garden Café 129 Roast 87 St John restaurant 77, 139
Honest Sausage café Rock and Sole Plaice 105 St Katharine Docks 71, 137
129 Romans 44 St Katharine Cree 138
Regent’s Park Golf and Ronnie Scott’s 58, 93 St Lawrence Jewry 138
Tennis School 144 The Rookery 176 St Magnus the Martyr
Regent’s Park and Roosevelt, Franklin D 114 137, 138
Marylebone 128–33 Rotunda 145 St Margaret’s Church 35
map 128 rowing 75 St Martin-in-the-Fields 46
restaurants 133 Royal Academy 51, 113, 115 St Martins Lane Hotel 174
shops 132 Summer Exhibition 66 St Mary-le-Bow 138
Rego, Paula, Royal Albert Hall 57, 120 St Mary’s Hospital 166
Germaine Greer 15 Royal Armories 37 St Pancras International
Rembrandt 27, 51, 142 Royal Ascot 67 Station 108, 109
A Woman Bathing 13 Royal Botanic Gardens, St Paul’s Cathedral
Renaissance London Kew 147 7, 16, 40–43
Heathrow 178 Royal China 125 St Paul’s Church 101
Renoir, Pierre Auguste Royal College of Music St Sepulchre-without-
At The Theatre 50 122 Newgate 138
Restaurant Services 163 Royal Court Theatre 57 St Stephen Walbrook 138
187
St Thomas’ Hospital 166 Sinatra, Frank 73 Stratford-upon-Avon 167
sales 170 Sir John Soane’s Museum street entertainment 171
Salt Yard 111 107 Sutton House 156
The Sanctuary 102 Six Nations Rugby 67 Swan at the Globe 86
Sanderson 174 skateboarding 75 Sweetings 139
Sauterelle 139 skating 75 swimming 75
Index
Savoy Hotel 70, 102, 177 Sketch 117 Syon House and Park 149
Schönberg, Skylon 77, 83, 87
Claude-Michel 60 Sloane, Sir Hans 8 T
school holidays 169 Smith, Paul 103 Tamarind 117
Science Museum Smith, Zadie 73 Tas 87, 111
7, 24–5, 48, 119 Smiths of Smithfield 139 Tate, Henry 20
Scott, Sir George Gilbert Smithys 111 Tate Britain 6, 20–21, 50, 81
109, 119 Snowdon, Lord 68 Tate Modern 6, 18–19, 50,
Scott, Ronnie 58 Soane, Sir John 107, 136 81, 83
Scribbler 92 Sofitel London Gatwick taxis 162
Sea Life London Aquarium hotel 178 The Tea House 103
68, 84 Soho Square 90 telephones 165
security 166 Soho and the West End television 163
Selfridges 132 88–95 Telford, Thomas 71
Serpentine Gallery 51,122 late night venues 93 Temple Church 46
Seven Dials 100 map 88 tennis 67, 75, 149
Severs, Dennis 156 pubs and cafés 94 Terminus 139
sexual health 166 restaurants 95 Thai Square Putney Bridge
Shaftesbury, Earl of 89 shopping 92 151
Shakespeare, William 14, West End shows 60–61 The Thames Barrier 71, 154
32, 45, 46, 107, 129, 167 Somerset House 99, 101 Thames Path 74
Shakespeare’s Globe 70, songs 73 Thames, River 70–71, 102,
77, 83, 86 Sotheby’s 116 168
Shaw, George Bernard 11 South and West London Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
Shaw’s Booksellers 139 146–51 101
Shepherd, Edward 114 map 146 Theatre Royal Stratford
Shepherd Market 114 restaurants 151 East 156
Shepherd’s 110 South Bank see theatres 56–7
Sheraton Park Tower 175 Westminster, South backstage tours 168
Sherlock Holmes Museum Bank and Southwark cheap tickets 171
130 Southbank Centre disabled visitors 164
The Shop at Bluebird 123 82, 83, 85 matinees 169
shopping 64–5, 170 Southwark see theft 166
Bloomsbury and Westminster, South Thomas, Dylan 106, 109
Fitzrovia 110 Bank and Southwark Thomas Neal Centre
Covent Garden 103 Southwark Cathedral 103
East London 154, 155 46 Thorpe Park 167
Kensington and Southwark Tavern, The 86 Threadneedles 175
Knightsbridge 123 souvenir shops 170 Three Mills Museum
late opening evenings 169 Spaniards Inn 63, 143, 145 156
Mayfair and St James 116 Speakers’ Corner 122 Tijou, Jean 41
North London 141, 144 Spitalfields 154 The Tintin Shop 102
Regent’s Park and sports 67, 75 Top Floor at Smiths of
Marylebone 132 The Square 117 Smithfield 77, 139
sales 170 Stamford Bridge Stadium Toulouse Lautrec,
Soho and the West End Tour 150 Henri de 50
92 Stanford’s 103 tourist information centres
South and West London Stansted Airport 161 163
150 statutory rights, shopping tours 168
Westminster, South 170 Tower Bridge 71, 135
Bank and Southwark 85 Stephenson, George 25 Tower Green 37
Shorts Gardens 103 Storm Nightclub 59 Tower Hotel, The 175
188
Tower of London 7, 36–9 Victoria Embankment Wicked, musical 61
Townley, Charles 8, 9 Gardens 102 Wigmore Hall 130
Trafalgar Square 89, 91 Victoria Park 156 Wilde, Oscar 11, 70, 72, 73
Traitors’ Gate 37 Victoria Station 55 William I the Conqueror,
travel 161–2 Villandry Foodstore 111 King 36, 37, 44
disabled visitors 164 Vinopolis 85 William II, King 38
Index
discounts 171 Vinopolis Wine Wharf 86 William III, King 29, 54, 119
travel passes 162 visas 160 William IV, King 39, 55
Travel Bookshop 123 Visit London 163 2 Willow Road 142
Travel Inn London County Volupté 59 Wimbledon Common
Hall 172 75, 150
traveller’s cheques 160 W Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Travelex 165 The Waldorf Hilton 177 Championship 67
Trooping the Colour 66 Walking Tours 168 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Trotsky, Leon 11 walks 74–5, 162, 168 Museum 149
Troubadour Coffee House Bloomsbury and Windsor Castle 17, 167
59 Fitzrovia 109 The Witch Ball 92
Truckles 111 The City 137 Woburn Abbey 108, 167
Turner, JMW 20, 42, 45 Covent Garden 101 Wódka 125
Norham Castle, Sunrise East End 155 The Wolseley 117
20 Greenwich 149 Wolsey, Cardinal 41, 54
Turpin, Dick 63 Kensington 121 women travellers 166
Tussaud, Madame 68 Marylebone 131 Woolf, Virginia 11, 72, 106
Twain, Mark 53 North London 143 World Food Café 104
riverside 83 World Rugby Museum
U St James’s 115 150
Underground 44, 162 West End 91 Wren, Sir Christopher 44
United States Embassy 160 The Wallace Café 133 churches 16, 46, 47, 115,
University College Wallace Collection 50, 129 134, 138
Hospital 166 Waterhouse, John William Kensington Palace 54
University College London The Lady of Shalott 21 Monument 137
108 Waterstone’s Piccadilly Royal Naval Hospital 48,
65, 116 148
V Watt, James 24 St Paul’s Cathedral 7,
Van Dyck, Sir Anthony 27 Weardowney 173 40–42
Van Eyck, Jan, The weather 163 WWT London Wetland
Arnolfini Portrait 12 Webb, Sir Aston 26, 46 Centre 75, 150
Van Gogh, Vincent, Wellington, Duke of Y
The Sunflowers 13 42, 43, 53, 114 Yauatcha 95
Varsity Match 67 Wesley, John 35 Yeomen Warders 36
VAT (Value Added Tax) 170 West End see Soho Yevele, Henry 32, 33
Velázquez, Diego 114 and the West End YMCA 179
The Rokeby Venus 13 Westfield 65 Young Vic Theatre 84
Vermeer, Jan 142 Westminster, South Bank Youth Hostels Association
The Guitar Player 51 and Southwark 80–85 171, 179
A Young Woman map 80
Standing at a Virginal 13 pubs and cafés 86 Z
Vertigo 42 77, 139 restaurants 87 Zetter 173
Via Fosse 155 shops and markets 85
Victoria, Queen 26, 43, 54, Westminster Abbey
55, 119, 120 7, 32–3, 81, 83
Victoria and Albert Westminster Cathedral 47
Museum 48, 119, 121 Westminster Hall 34
V&A Friday Late 122 White Tower 36
V&A Museum of Whitechapel Gallery
Childhood 49, 69, 152, 153, 155
154 Whitehall 82
Victoria Coach Station 161 Whittington, Dick 136
189
Acknowledgements
The Author Enticknap, John Heseltine, Roger
Roger Williams is a London-born Hilton, Ed Ironside, Colin Keates,
journalist and long-time Soho Dave King, Bob Langrish, Robert
Acknowledgements
inhabitant. He has written and edited O’Dea, Stephen Oliver, John Parker,
several dozen travel guides, including Rob Reichenfeld, Kim Sayer, Susana
Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Smith, Chris Stevens, James
guides to Provence and Barcelona. Strachan, Doug Traverso, Vincent
He is also the author of The Royal Oliver, David Ward, Matthew Ward,
Albert Hall: A Masterpiece for the Steven Wooster
21st century, and his fictions
include Lunch With Elizabeth David Picture Credits
and High Times at the Hotel Bristol. t-top, tl-top left; tlc-top left centre;
tc-top centre; tr-top right; cla-centre
Project Editor Simon Hall left above; ca-centre above; cra-
Art Editor Nicola Rodway centre right above; cl-centre left; c-
Senior Editor Marcus Hardy centre; cr-centre right; clb-centre left
Senior Art Editor Marisa Renzullo below; cb-centre below; crb-centre
Publishing Manager Kate Poole right below; bl-bottom left, b-bottom;
Senior Publishing Manager bc-bottom centre; bcl-bottom centre
Louise Bostock Lang left; br-bottom right; d-detail.
Director of Publishing Gillian Allan
Photographer Demetrio Carasco The publishers would like to thank
Illustrator Chris Orr & Associates the following individuals,
Cartography Casper Morris companies and picture libraries for
Maps Tom Coulson, Martin Darlison their kind permission to reproduce
(Encompass Graphics Ltd) their photographs.
Editors Michelle de Larrabeiti, ALAMY IMAGES: Robert Harding
Irene Lyford Picture Library Ltd. 147bl; ARCAID:
Researcher Jessica Doyle
Picture Research Brigitte Arora Richard Bryant. Architect: Foster &
Proofreader Stewart J Wild Partners 11c, 11b, 11t; ARCBLUE:
Indexer Hilary Bird Peter Durant 16l, 18cl; ARENAPAL:
DTP Jason Little Elodie Negrinotti 61tl, Michael le
Production Joanna Bull, Marie
Ingledew Poer Trench 60-61b; Colin
Willoughby 60tl; L’ATELIER DE JOEL
Design and Editorial Assistance ROBUCHON: 76cra; BAR 101:
Lydia Baillie, Emily Bevan, Sonal Poorang Shahabi 93tl; BENJAMIN
Bhatt, Julie Bowles, Mariana POLLOCK’S TOY-SHOP: 100cl, 103tl;
Evmolpidou, Emer Fitzgerald,
STEPHEN BERE: 93tl; BRIDGEMAN
Rhiannon Furbear, Janice Fuscoe,
Camilla Gersh, James Hall, Laura ART LIBRARY, LONDON / NEW
Jones, Maite Lantaron, Carly YORK: Guildhall Library, Corporation
Madden, Alison McGill, Caroline of London 43c; Kenwood House
Mead, Catherine Palmi, Helen 51t; BRITISH LIBRARY: 107bl;
Partington, Marianne Petrou, Mani
Ramaswamy, David Saldanha, Lilly BRITISH MUSEUM: 6tr, 8b, 9tl, 9cb,
Sellar, Melanie Simmonds, Hayley 9bl, 9cra, 10tr, 10bl; Peter Hayman
Smith, Sadie Smith, Susana Smith, 8cr; Liz McAulay 10c; BROMPTON
Rachel Symons, Sylvia Tombesi- HOTEL: 172tr. CAFE DES AMIS
Walton, Conrad Van Dyk.
104tr; CAMERA PRESS: Cecil
Additional Photography Max
Beaton 39b; CAMINO: Ed Reeves
Alexander, June Buck, Jo Cornish, 145tc; CARLUCCIO’S: 111tl; CHRIS
Michael Dent, Mike Dunning, Philip CHRISTODOULOU: 57cr; COLLEC-
190
TIONS: James Bartholomew 7crb; 153bl; MUSEUM OF LONDON:
John D. Beldom 55br, 66cr, 119br; 44c, 44b, 44t, 45tl, 48bc; 136cl;
Oliver Benn 150tr; Nigel Hawkins NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON:
Acknowledgements
129tl; David McGill 80tl, 130cl; 12b, 12t, 13cr, 13cb, 13bl, 13t, 50c,
Keith Pritchard; Brian Shuel 66tr; Liz 50cl; NATIONAL MARITIME
Stares 17bl; BILL COOPER: 56c; MUSEUM: James Stevenson 149cr;
CORBIS: S. Carmona 160t; Jeremy NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY,
Horner 147tl; Robbie Jack 99br; LONDON: 6c, 14cl, 14bl, 14-15c,
London Aerial Photo Library 6cl, 16- 14br, 15tl, 15cl, 15cr, 15b;
17c; Kim Sayer 154bl; Grant Smith NATIONAL TRUST PHOTOGRAPHIC
17r; Adam Woolfitt 34cb. CUTTY LIBRARY: Bill Batten 149tl; Michael
SARK TRUST: 71tr; DEAN AND Boys 52tr; NATURAL HISTORY
CHAPTER OF WESTMINSTER: MUSEUM, LONDON: 22cr, 22b,
33tl. THE ENGLISH HERITAGE 23tl, 23tr, 23ca, 23b, 119bl. THE
PHOTO LIBRARY: 148br. EPO O2: 58tr; NETWORK LONDON P
ONLINE: Walt Disney Theatrical R & MARKETING: 95tl; PERETTI
Productions/ Catherine Ashmore COMMUNICATIONS: Chris
60cl; FERNANDEZ AND WELLS: Gascoigne & Lifschutz Davidson
94tl; FINANCIAL TIMES: 72c; 77tr; PHILIP WAY PHOTOGRAPHY:
FREEDOM BREWERY COMPANY: 40bl, 40-41c, 41t, 42c, 42bl, 43b,
63cr; FREUD MUSEUM, LONDON: 80bl, PHOTOFUSION: Paul Bigland
52b; FRIENDS OF HIGHGATE 153tl, 155br; Paul Doyle 152cr; Ray
CEMETERY: Doug Traverso 75bl, Roberts 67tr; PICTURES COLOUR
143tl. GETTY IMAGES: Hideo LIBRARY: David Noble 4-5; POINT
Kurihara 1; Jo Cornish 30-31; SALLY 101: 93tl; POPPERFOTO: Reuters/
& RICHARD GREENHILL: Sally Greg Bos 72tr; PREMIER PR:
Greenhill 164tr; HAYWARD Tristram Kenton 60tr; 144tl; PRESS
GALLERY ARTS COUNCIL ASSOCIATION PICTURE LIBRARY:
COLLECTION: Richard Haughton Toby Melville 28br; PRIVATE
82br; HEALS: 110tl; HISTORIC COLLECTION: 43tr; REX
ROYAL PALACES: 36tr; KOKO: FEATURES: 27b; Tim Rooke 26br,
58bl; LEIGHTON HOUSE 54tl; Ray Tang 73bl; Andy Watts
MUSEUM: 53bl; THE LONDON 67br; RICHMOND HILL HOTEL:
AQUARIUM: 68bl; LONDON 178tr; THE RITZ, LONDON: 177tl;
TRANSPORT MUSEUM: 49cb; ROBERT HARDING PICTURE
MADAME TUSSAUD'S, LONDON: LIBRARY: 66tl, 66cl, 107br; Nigel
128tl, GARRY SAMUELS 129bl; Francis 28-29c; Simon Harris
MANGO Pr.: The Eton Collection 36-37c; D. Hughes 137tl; M.P.H.
176tl; MARINEPICS LTD: Mark 26bl; Walter Rawlings 130br; R.
Pepper 156tr; MARY EVANS Richardson 34-35c; Ellen Rooney
PICTURE LIBRARY: 52c, 72tl, 54tr, 67bl; A. Tovy 126-127; Adam
72tc, 72bl; MBC MANAGEMENT Woolfitt 67cr; THE ROYAL
61tl; MEADOWCROFT GRIFFIN COL-LECTION © 2001 HER
ARCHITECTS: David Grandorge MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II:
145t; MORGANS HOTEL GROUP: A. C. Cooper Ltd. 27tl; Crown ©
174tr; MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS: HMSO 39cl, 39tr; Derry Moore
191
27tr; ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, 2008 19cb; Spatial Concept
KEW: 147br; ROYAL GARDEN “Waiting” (1960) Lucio Fontana ©
HOTEL: 173tl; SADLER’S WELLS Fondazione Lucio Fontana 19cr;
Acknowledgements
192