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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal, 3rd Edition
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal, 3rd Edition
PortugaL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
PORTUGAL
Main Contributor Martin Symington
Project Editor Ferdie McDonald
Art Editor Vanessa Hamilton
Editors Caroline Ball, Francesca Machiavelli
Introducing Lisbon
Designers Anthea Forlee, Carolyn Hewitson, Portugal
Nicola Rodway, Dutjapun Williams
Main Contributors Susie Boulton,
Discovering Portugal 10 Introducing Lisbon 64
Christopher Catling, Clive Gilbert, Marion
Kaplan, Sarah McAlister, Alice Peebles, Carol
Rankin, Norman Renouf, Joe Staines, Robert Putting Portugal on Alfama 70
Strauss, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall, the Map 18
Tomas Tranæus, Edite Vieira Baixa and Avenida 82
Photographers Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, A Portrait of Portugal 20
Robert Reichenfeld, Linda Whitwam, Peter Bairro Alto and Estrela 90
Wilson, Francesca Yorke Portugal Through the
Illustrators Richard Draper, Paul Guest, Year 34 Belém 102
Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, Maltings
Partnership, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas/
The History of Further Afield 114
Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.,Paul
Weston, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward Portugal 40
Shopping in Lisbon 128
Printed and bound in China
First published in the UK in 1997 by Dorling Entertainment in
Kindersley Limited Lisbon 130
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Lisbon Street Finder 132
Reprinted with revisions
1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004,
2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, Portuguese water jug,
2018 Museu Guerra Junqueiro
Copyright 1997, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-24130-931-5
Title page View of Porto Moniz, with its natural rock pools, Madeira Front cover image A boat sails past the beautiful Ponta de
Piedade near the town of Lagos, the Algarve Back cover image The Alfama district of Lisbon
Contents
Central Portugal Travellers’ Needs
Alentejo 296
Algarve 320
Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos, Lisbon
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
Lisbon
Lisbon has been divided into of the major sights described. to locate as the order in
five main sightseeing areas. All sights are numbered and which they appear in the
Each of these areas has its own plotted on an Area Map. chapter follows the numerical
chapter, which opens with a list Information on the sights is easy order used on the map.
numbered and located on mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic
Manueline style of architecture (see pp28–9)
and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Avenida da Índia cut central Belém off from
Sights at a Glance
RC O A
ZA
MERCÊS
I
ÓR
S
VE
ME M
AL
C. DA
R UA G
G A LVÃO
pp132–45
DA I
LHA
M U N I C I PA L
DO
M
A
DO T. D
M AD
R E S T E LO
CALÇAD
S
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NE
RUA
EIRA
15
EA
LÇA
G OL E NA
. ALC R.
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DE O
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RE
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A
RU A 1
I D
RU
A V E N
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A
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Ó N
A
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DE
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BELÉ
IM
NC
LO
FRA
O
UR
DOM
S
RUA
EN
DE
ÇO
ER RUA
R U A S ÃO F. X A V I
DE
DE B E L ÉM
300 m
E
AL
TORR
VIL
ME
A C
PRAÇA
IDA
DO
RRO
AS IMPÉRIO ÍNDI
A
DI
DA
EI A
DA Belém
U A
ME NID
O LO AVE
BA R T
NIDA
RUA
Estação Fluvial
SÍL
I A de Belém
ÍNDIA BRA
AVE
IDA DA DE
AVEN AV ENI
D A
j o
T e
0 metres 400
0 yards 400
Manueline arches in the cloister of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos For additional map symbols see back flap
2
Street-by-Street: Belém
Street-by-Street Map Portugal’s former maritime glory, expressed in
the imposing buildings such as the Jerónimos
monastery, is evident all around Belém. In
BELÉM
sightseeing areas.
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to cloister of the Jerónimos monastery. Palácio de Belém.
Portugal’s first viceroy of India. The royal
Palácio de Belém, restored with gardens
0 metres 50
and a riding school by João V in the Antiga Confeitaria de
18th century, briefly housed the royal Belém,a 19th-century café, sells 0 yards 50
pastéis de Belém, rich custard in
family after the 1755 earthquake.
a flaky pastry cup.
L ARGO Central
IO
A PINTO
ÉR Lisbon
Torre
de Belém
1 Palácio de Belém
(see p112) Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
(pink palace) because of its faded pink
façade, the former royal palace is the
residence of the Portuguese president.
It also houses the Museu da Presidência
Rua Vieira Portuense runs along da República.
110 LISBON BELÉM 111
a small park. Its colourful 16th-
and 17th-century houses con-
trast with the typically imposing
shipbuilding from the 8 Centro Cultural 0 MAAT – Museu de buildings in Belém.
mid-15th century, de Belém Key Arte, Arquitetura e Praça Afonso de Albuquerque
capitalizing on the
experience of long- Praça do Império. Map 1 B5. Tel 213 Tecnologia
Suggested route is named after the first
612 400. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. Praça do Império, an impressive Portuguese viceroy of India. A
distance explorers. Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, 1300-598
£ Belém. Berardo Collection square that opens out in front of the Neo-Manueline column in the
Small replicas show Lisboa. Map 2 D5. Tel 210 028 130.
Museum: Tel 213 612 878. monastery, is lit up on special centre bears his statue, with
the transition from @ 727, 728, 729. v15. £ Belém.
occasions with a colourful light display
Open 10am–7pm daily. 7 & Open 12–8pm Wed–Mon. Closed Tue scenes from his life carved on
the bark to the in the central fountain.
∑ ccb.pt; ∑ museuberardo.pt
& public hols: 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. the base.
lateen-rigged caravel,
through the faster Standing between the Tagus & ∑ maat.pt;
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
square-rigged and the Jerónimos monastery,
caravel, to the this stark, modern building was With a spectacular riverside
Portuguese nau. Also erected as the headquarters of view, the stylish Museu de Arte,
here are navigational the Portuguese presidency Arquitetura e Tecnologia is
instruments, of the European Community. operated by the EDP Foundation,
astrolabes and In 1993 it opened as a cultural The huge pavement compass in front of the Monument to the Discoveries and is dedicated to contemp-
replicas of 16th- centre offering performing arts, orary art, primarily Portuguese,
century maps showing music and photography. The royal patrons and all those the huge mariner’s compass along with modern architecture
the world as it was centre houses the Berardo who took part in the develop- cut into the paving stone was and technology. Popularly
known then. The
stone pillars, carved
with the Cross of the
Collection Museum, which has
contemporary art by the likes
of Francis Bacon, Willem de
ment of the Portuguese Age
of Discovery. The monument
is designed in the shape of a
a gift from South Africa in
1960. The central map, dotted
with mermaids and galleons,
known as MAAT, the exhibits
are housed in an award-
winning building designed by
Stars indicate the sights that no
Knights of Christ, are caravel, with Portugal’s coat
3
was here, in the chapel built by royal brig built in 1780 for north side, light of the late afternoon sun. 20th century.
Henry the Navigator (see p53), Maria I. The collection ends 9 Monument to
Detailed Information
that mariners took mass before with a display of seaplanes, the Discoveries Eastern Face of the
embarking on their voyages. including the Santa Clara Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
Monument to the
A hall about the Discoveries which made the first crossing Discoveries
Avenida de Brasília. Map 1 C5.
illustrates the progress in of the South Atlantic in 1922. Tel 213 031 950. @ 727, 728.
Portugal
enjoy the sandy beaches and fishing towns along the coast or
1 Introduction
explore the lagoons of the Tagus and Sado river estuaries.
Region By Region
Traders and invaders, from the Phoenicians communities still
2 Regional Map
156 CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST 157
illustrated overview of
Sobral de
bases from which to explore the rocky Monte Agraço roads. Fast, frequent trains run from
Ribamar
coastline and surrounding countryside. Lisbon: from Cais do Sodré station to
Santo Isidoro
South of the Tagus, the Serra da Arrábida Vila Franca do Estoril and Cascais, from Roma Areeiro
and Entrecampos stations to Queluz
Lampas
oS
2 Ericeira
COLARES R e s e r va
3 Colares SINTRA Odivelas N a t u ra l d o
Sacavém E s t u á r i o d o Te j o
5 Monserrate Cabo da A Belas
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R Canha Rib
6 Sintra pp162–7 eira
PALÁCIO DE ALCOCHETE de Canh
7 Cascais Malveira da Serra QUELUZ a
Rio
Alcabideche
8 Estoril Guincho
Samouco
9 Palácio de Queluz pp170–71 LISBON
0 Alcochete Caxias Montijo
Boca do Inferno ESTORIL Atalaia
Pegões Velhos
q Costa da Caparica Oeiras Almada
w Cabo Espichel CASCAIS Trafaria Rio Frio
Carcavelos
Barreiro
e Sesimbra Arieiro Moita Évora
r Palmela COSTA DA CAPARICA Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
t Serra da Arrábida Santo António
y Setúbal
da Charneca
SETÚBAL
Each area of Portugal can
u Península de Tróia Coina
i Alcácer do Sal
ATLANTIC Águas Marateca
0 kilometres 10 OCEAN PALMELA de Moura
Tours Marco do Grilo
Santana Ri Estação
SE
Pinheiro
ão
Portinho o
S
Sad
da Arrábida PENÍNSULA o
ira
do Cabo
Ri
Baía de
Key CABO ESPICHEL Montalvo
Setúbal
Motorway
Secondary road Comporta
ALCÁCER DO SAL
Minor road
Scenic route Grândola
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border 174 CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST 175
3
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239 flats are reached by walkways here, and the castle later became
Detailed Information
365. Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm raised on stilts. From here to a stronghold for the Romans.
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols. Alcácer do Sal, great stretches Rebuilt by the Moors, it was finally
The archaeological museum of pine forest line the road, conquered by Afonso II in 1217.
displays a wealth of finds from and there are the first glimpses The restored buildings have
are listed in order, following Todi 468 (265 545 010 or 915 174 442). Tourist Office at No. 10 Travessa Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 545 010. Road map C5. @ g Tróia. n Tróia along the riverside promenade
Frei Gaspar. The star-shaped fort was built in Resort (265 499 400/421). Bypassed by the main road, the and several historic churches.
Although this is an important 1595 by Philip II of Spain during ancient town of Alcácer do Sal The bullring is a focus for
industrial town, and the third- R Igreja de Jesus the period of Spanish rule (see High-rise holiday apartments (al-kasr from the Arabic for castle, summer events and hosts the
information on important
Graça, has glorious tiled panels established in the 3rd century. and pratincoles are found close to
dating from the 18th century, Environs The stone tanks and ruined areas of open water and mud flats
and gilded altar decoration. Setúbal is an buildings, which are signposted as well as the dried out lagoons of
Street names commemorate excellent starting as Ruinas Romanas, are open to the Tagus and Sado estuaries. Reed-
4
families. The lower walls are
lined with 18th-century Delft-
like tiled panels.
KEY
The Top Sights
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled
garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastião,
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons)
4 The Torre dos Brasões has
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
The following itineraries have been designed can easily be combined into a two-week
to take in as many of Portugal’s highlights as tour. Finally, there are two more themed
possible, while keeping long-distance travel one-week itineraries, designed to showcase
to a minimum. First come three two-day tours the Alentejo’s medieval heritage and the Viana do
of, respectively, the vibrant capital Lisbon, the resort region of the Algarve, in southern Castelo
fascinating city of Porto and the beautiful Portugal. Travelled together, they provide Praia do
Cabedelo
island of Madeira. A one-week itinerary of a memorable 14-day jaunt. Pick, combine
northern Portugal and a themed one-week and follow your favourite tours, or simply
tour of the Atlantic coastline are next. These dip in and out and be inspired.
Porto
Aveiro
Leiria
Ponte
da Barca
Parque Nacional
Ponte de Peneda-Gerês
de Lima
Bom Jesus do Monte
Braga Citânia de Briteiros
Guimarães
Vila Real Alijó
Amarante Sabrosa
Casa de
Mateus Pinhão
Dour o
Peso da
Régua
The unspoilt Pinhão Beach in Lagos, Algarve
Fringed by rocky cliffs, secluded Pinhão Beach is in
a small bay near Lagos harbour.
A Tour of Medieval
Portugal
Coimbra •
Explore the splendid city
Conímbriga
of Évora, a UNESCO World
Heritage site.
•
Visit the stunning medieval
hamlet of Marvão, in the
Serra de São Mamede range.
ere
Viana do
Alentejo
Amieira
Beja
•
Combine Faro, the •
Explore the remote
Serpa
Algarve’s capital, with Sagres peninsula and
the Parque Natural the Cabo de São
da Ria Formosa. Vicente promontory.
Mértola
•
Visit attractive Tavira, •
Travel to the Serra de
then head offshore to Monchique and relax
Guadia
Caldas de Monchique
•
Day 3: Elvas
Drive south to the frontier town
of Elvas (pp302–3). Walk along
the massive fortifications
around the old town, then visit
the early 13th-century castle.
Afterwards, walk down to the The medieval castle of Marvão, perched on a dramatic escarpment in the Alentejo
For practical information on travelling around Portugal, see pp440–49
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL 17
One Week in
Southern Portugal
•
Airports Arrive and depart
at Faro Airport.
•
Transport A car is essential
for this trip.
o
nh
Vigo
the north and east, a border measuring approximately
Mi
1,300 km (800 miles) separates Portugal from its only
neighbouring country, Spain, and to the south and
west, 830 km (500 miles) of coastline meets the Atlantic
Ocean. The Atlantic archipelagos of Madeira and the Viana do
Azores are included in Portugal’s territory. Castelo
Braga
Guimarães
Vila Real
Corvo The Azores
Porto o
Flores
D ou r
Graciosa
Faial
Pico
Aveiro Viseu
São Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres 200
P O R T
Leiria
z e re
Madeira
Zê
Porto Santo
Peniche
Ilha do
oj
Te
Porto Santo
Santarém Ponte
de Sor
Madeira Mora
Lisbon (Lisboa)
0 kilometres 20 See inset
Funchal map right
0 miles 10 Évora
Setúbal
Viana do
Alentejo
S ad o
Alvito
Beja
0 kilometres 100
Santiago
0 miles 50 Atlantic Sines do Cacém
Almodôvar
Key
Aljezur
Motorway Alte
Portimão
Major road
Minor road Albufeira
International boundary
Ferry route
Sarria
Europe NORWAY
ESTONIA
LATVIA
SWEDEN
LITHUANIA
Ponferrada
Si l DENMARK
S P A I N
UNITED POLAND
KINGDOM
GERMANY
REPUBLIC NETHERLANDS
CZECH SLOVAKIA
OF REPUBLIC
IRELAND
BELGIUM HUNGARY
LUXEMBOURG
AUSTRIA
Bragança SWITZERLAND
SLOVENIA
Chaves FRANCE
Miranda ITALY
do Douro
Due
Sendim ro
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
Torre de
Moncorvo Lisbon
ó Madrid
n
Guarda ag
mes
Al
Sabugal
Sortelha
Penamacor
S P A I N
Plasencia
U G A L Greater Lisbon
Castelo
Branco Ta j o Odivelas Sacavém
Cáceres
Queluz Amadora
Portalegre
o
LISBON
ej
Campo Maior
Belém
T Montijo
Sousel Mérida
a
ian Cacilhas
Badajoz G u ad
Trafaria Almada Barreiro
Moita
Costa da
Caparica Seixal
Zafra
ila 0 kilometres 10
Moura A rd Coina
0 miles 5
Guadiana
Aracena Córdoba
Estepa Genil
Sevilla
Granada
Huelva Almonte
Motril
Jerez de Málaga
la Frontera
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL 21
A PORTRAIT OF
PORTUGAL
Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, rocky coastline and
manicured golf links of the Algarve. But beyond the south coast resorts lies
the least explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
sophisticated cities, rural backwaters and sharply contrasting traditions.
Porto is a serious rival to Lisbon in history, Azores. Warm and luxuriant Madeira is off
food and culture, and visitors can access the coast of Morocco, with its sister island
the Douro Valley by river cruise boat from Porto Santo boasting a long, sandy beach.
Porto. Most of the country’s centres of Then there are the nine rainy, green,
population, however, are smaller: from the volcano tips that make up the Azores, about
fishing communities on the Atlantic coast one third of the way across the Atlantic
to the tiny medieval villages in the vast between Lisbon and New York. Here visitors
sun-baked plains of the Alentejo and the can climb Portugal’s highest peak and hike
mountainous interior of the Beiras. Providing along Europe’s most westerly coast.
a natural link between the cool, green pas-
tures of the north and the hot, dry expanses Politics and Economics
of the south, the picturesque Beiras region In the final quarter of the 20th century, a
also encompasses the enchanting city new era of Portuguese history began.
of Coimbra, home to one of the oldest From the late 1920s, under the long dictator-
universities in the world. ship of António Salazar, the country was a
Far out in the Atlantic Ocean lie two remote virtual recluse in the world community.
archipelagos that are self-governing regions The principal concern of foreign policy
of the Portuguese state – Madeira and the was the ultimately futile defence of
Portugal’s African and
Asian colonies. Domestic
industry and commerce
were dominated by a
few wealthy families,
in an economic
framework of extreme
fiscal tightness.
The Carnation
Revolution of 1974
brought this era to an
end. At first the re-
establishment of demo-
cracy was a painful
process, but since the
1980s Portugal has
Colourful buildings in Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal assumed an increasingly
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL 23
gradually changing,
especially in the
cities, it is quite
common for three
generations to live
under one roof.
One thing that has
changed dramat
ically is family size.
A generation ago,
families of ten or
more children
were common
place – especially
in remote, rural
An icon of Our Lady of Fátima is carried to the sanctuary of Fátima as pilgrims observe in silence areas. Nowadays,
one or two
Visitors to Portugal should not interpret lack children constitute an averagesized
of punctuality as a personal slight. However, family, often looked after by a grand
in the major cities this is certainly a dated mother while
custom. An hour for lunch, 1–2pm usually, both parents
and then back to work. Some Portuguese go out
tend to discard their native courtesy com to work.
pletely when they are behind the wheel of Catholicism
a car, although fatalities caused by reckless is at the heart
driving have decreased in recent years. of Portuguese
The family is the bosom of Portuguese life, especially
daily life. Although old customs are in the north, Tiled housefront in Alcochete, a small
where you will town on the Tagus estuary
see a crucifix
or the image of a saint watching over
most homes, cafés and barbers’ shops.
Weddings and first communion services
are deeply religious occasions. Although
church attendance is in decline, partic
ularly in cities, national devotion to
Our Lady of Fátima remains steadfast,
as does delight in festivals (romarias)
honouring local saints, another tradition
that is strongest in the north.
Vernacular Architecture
Traditionally, Portugal’s rural architecture varied with climatic
conditions and locally available building materials. Although
lightweight bricks are now ubiquitous, many older houses still
stand. There are the thick-walled granite houses of the north
designed to keep out the cold and rain. The Beiras’ milder
climate means their houses are made of brick or limestone.
In the Alentejo and the Ribatejo, the clay houses are long and
low, to suit hot summers and chilly winters. The Algarve’s gentler
Mediterranean climate has led to houses of clay or stone.
Raised platforms guard Modern examples use tiles or Different coloured stripes painted onto the
against flooding. painted façades to continue the wood allowed the fishermen to identify their
tradition of striped houses. houses through the region’s frequent mists.
Tiled Roofs
Throughout Portugal, red
clay roof tiles give towns
and villages a memor-
able skyline. The most
traditional and widely
used type of roof tile is Telhados de quatro águas, the distinctive tiled roofs found in
the telha de canudo or Tavira, the Algarve (see p336)
tubular tile. Originating
from the Moors, these half-cylindrical tiles are placed in two layers:
Rooftops of Castelo de Vide in the the first is placed with the concave side facing up and the second
Alentejo (see p301) with the concave side facing down, covering the joints of the first.
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL 27
Telhas de canudo
are used to cover Portugal’s Windmills
the roof. Windmills are thought to have existed
in Portugal since the 11th century.
Many pristine examples still dot the
Verandas are hillsides, particularly in coastal regions.
glassed in and
so can be used
all year round.
Most windmills
have a cylindrical
brick or stone base.
The upper section
Limestone revolves to catch the
used for the wind in its canvas
walls is usually
Houses in the Beiras (see pp200–27) stuccoed and
sails. Estremadura
often have verandas, usually on the whitewashed. (see pp176–99) has
first floor. These are built to face the sun, good examples.
at the same time affording protection
from the cold north winds.
Colour-trimmed houses of the Alentejo and Ribatejo Whitewashing protects the walls, deflects the hot
regions are mainly constructed of clay. Long and oblong summer sun and acts as a deterrent for pests and
in shape, they have few openings, to ensure that the vermin. Many householders consider it a point of
heat is trapped in winter and kept out in summer. honour ro renew their whitewash each year.
Manueline Architecture
The style of architecture that flourished in the reign of Manuel I
(see pp50–53) and continued after his death is essentially a
Portuguese variant of Late Gothic. It is typified by maritime
motifs inspired by Portugal’s Age of Discovery, and by elaborate
“all-over” decoration. The artists behind it include João de
Castilho and Diogo Boitac, renowned for the cloister of the
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (see pp108–9), and Francisco and
Diogo de Arruda, designers of the Torre de Belém (see p112).
Cross of the Order of Twisted Manueline pillory in
Christ (see p191) Chaves (see pp262–3)
Armillary
sphere
Coat of arms
of Manuel I
Cables
Swathes of
The portal of the church of seaweed
Conceição Velha in Lisbon
(see p89) was commissioned
Coral-encrusted
by Manuel in the early 16th
century. The king himself masts
appears in the carved relief
in the tympanum. Anchor chains
Twisted ropes
Curving branches and In the Royal Cloister of Batalha (see pp188–9), Soft limestone allowed
crinkled exotic foliage recall early 15th-century pointed Gothic arches complex patterns to be
Indian sculptural motifs. incorporate exquisite Manueline screens on carved in the tracery.
colonnettes, probably by Diogo Boitac,
Cross of the whose two designs alternate. Armillary
Order of Christ sphere
Twisted ropes Bussaco Palace, today a luxury hotel (see p216), was
decorate ceiling originally built as a royal hunting lodge about the
vaults, columns and end of the 19th century. An extraordinary building,
arches, and girdle the palace incorporates every conceivable element
entire buildings of Manueline architecture and decoration, illus-
inside and out. trating the persistence of the style in Portuguese
design, which continues to this day.
30 INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
1800 1900
Neo-Classical Art Nouveau Modern
1800 1900
Braga Chaves 22
A24
A28
A7 style by specializing in
Vila Real A4
Porto
A4 particular Portuguese grape
Penedono
varieties. The introduction
A24
A1
A25
of modern winemaking
02
Aveiro
N1
Viseu A25
Guarda techniques has improved
N109
A1
7
N1
Figueira Coimbra overall quality, and as
3
A2
da Foz
yet the increasing use of
A17
Leiria
IP2
Castelo
Branco
imported grape varieties
A2
3 seems no threat to
9
Peniche
A1
N24
6
Portuguese individuality.
Portalegre
A8
Santarém
IP2
A1
Key
A13
A6
6
A1
Lisbon (Lisboa)
A6 Évora
N4
Vinhos Verdes Vinho verde vineyards in the village of
Setúbal
N25
6 Lapela, near Monção in the Minho
A2
Douro
IC1
IP2
Moura
Sines
IP8
Dão
IP2
Vila Nova
Castro Verde Bairrada
de Milfontes
Lisboa
IC1
Almodôvar
20
A2
N1
Aljezur N2
Alte Tejo
Portimão A22
Faro Setúbal
Alentejo
0 km 50
Algarve
0 miles 50
Bairrada is a
region where
the small and
thick-skinned
Baga grape
dominates.
It makes big, tannic wines, Setúbal, south of Lisbon, is best
Minho produces vinho verde, a sometimes with smoky or known for its sweet, fortified
“green wine” that can be either pine-needle overtones and, Muscat wine, Moscatel de Setúbal.
red or white, but the fizzy, dry like the older Dão wines, they It also produces excellent, mostly
reds are generally consumed need time to soften. Modern red, table wine. Two big quality
locally. Typical white vinho verde winemaking and occasional producers dominate: José Maria
is bone dry, slightly fizzy, low disregard for regional regula- da Fonseca (see p173) and J P
in alcohol and high in acidity. tions have meant more Vinhos. The co-operative at Santo
A weightier style of white vinho approachable reds (often Isidro de Pegões makes good-
verde is made from the Alvarinho classified as Vinho Regional value wines, while interesting
grape, near the Spanish border. das Beiras) and crisper whites. smaller producers include Freitas,
Among the best brands are Quality producers include Luìs Venâncio Costa Lima, Hero do
Soalheiro and Palácio da Brejoeira. Pato and Caves Aliança. Castanheiro and Ermelinda.
Algarve is
Portugal’s
southernmost
wine region.
Portimão,
Lagos and
Ribatejo is the fertile valley of Lagoa in the
The Dão region now offers some the Tagus to the north and east west and Tavira
of Portugal’s best wines. Leading of Lisbon. After Estremadura, it is in the east are
the pack are smaller producers, Portugal’s biggest wine region the four main wine-producing
such as Quinta dos Roques, measured by volume, but its areas here, notable for their fruity
Quinta da Pellada and Quinta de potential for quality wines has reds (Touriga Nacional, Cabernet
Cabriz, and the large Sogrape only just begun to be realized. Sauvignon and Negra Mole) and
company. They are known for As in Estremadura, Vinho Regional dry, crisp whites (Arinto, Verdelho
fruity reds; fresh, dry whites; and bottlings are frequently better and Castelão). Top producers
deeper, richer reds that retain than DOC ones. Producers include Quinta do Barranco
their fruit with age – a far cry to look for include Quinta Longo, Quinta da Penina, Quinta
from the heavy, hard-edged, and da Alorna, Casa Branco and do Francês, Quinta dos Vales and
often oxidized wines of the past. Fiuza & Bright. Quinta do Morgado da Torre.
34 INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL THROUGH
THE YEAR
While July and August are the most popular reflected in religious festivals. Festas are
months for visiting, spring and autumn held throughout the year, most frequently
can be more rewarding if you want to celebrating saints’ days, but also marking
tour and experience local culture. Free of the end of the harvest, or gastronomic
excessive heat and crowds, the country and even sporting events. Festas call for
is more relaxed. There is deep-rooted prayers, processions, fireworks, eating
respect throughout the nation for and drinking, traditional folk dances and
ancient traditions, which are most often general merrymaking.
Spring
From the Algarve to Trás-os-
Montes, the country erupts in
wild flowers as warmer days
set in. This is the time to see
the countryside at its most
beautiful, although rain can be
expected until the end of May.
Easter is a time of great
religious celebration, with
Holy Week processions taking
place all over the country.
March
International Chocolate
Festival (Mar/Apr), Óbidos.
This event attracts people Fátima on 13 May, when 100,000 pilgrims gather every year
from all over the world. The
date changes from year to year. Mãe Soberana (second Sun Queima das Fitas (mid-May),
Madeira Islands Golf Open after Easter), Loulé, Algarve. Coimbra. Lively celebrations
(Mar). Venue and date change Pilgrimage to Nossa Senhora mark the end of the university’s
each year. da Piedade (see p331). academic year (see p213).
FIAPE (end Apr/early May), Festa do Senhor Santo Cristo
Estremoz. An international agri- dos Milagres (fifth Sun after
cultural, cattle and handicrafts fair. Easter), Ponta Delgada, São
Algarve Nature Week (5–14 Miguel, Azores. The largest
May), Algarve. Several outdoor religious festival in the Azores.
activities are held to promote Festa do Espírito Santo
nature, including walks, bird- (Pentecost), Azores. Climax of the
watching and dolphin- and festival of the Holy Spirit (see p372).
whale-watching trips. Pilgrimage to Bom Jesus
(Pentecost), Braga. Penitents
May climb the spectacular staircase
Flower Festival (late Apr/ early on their knees (see pp284–5).
May), Funchal, Madeira. Shops and
houses are decorated with flow-
Costume at the Funchal Flower Festival ers. Ends with a parade of floats.
Festas das Cruzes (early May),
April Barcelos. The Festival of the
Holy Week (week before Easter), Crosses celebrates the day
Braga. Events in the country’s the shape of a cross appeared
religious capital are particularly in the earth in 1504.
traditional. Torchlit processions Pilgrimage to Fátima (12–13
are led by church authorities. May). Huge crowds make the
Easter Sunday is also the pilgrimage to the place where
beginning of the bullfighting the Virgin appeared to three Children carrying a cross at the Festas das
season throughout Portugal. children in 1917 (see p190). Cruzes, Barcelos (May)
PORTUGAL THROUGH THE YEAR 35
Summer
Most visitors choose the summer
months to visit Portugal. Since
many businesses shut down
in August, it is holiday time
for locals too. Many families
spend the entire summer by
the seaside.
Summer is a good time to
visit the cooler Minho, when the
north is busy with saints’ day
festivals (see pp232–3).
ESTREMADURA
The Azores AND RIBATEJO
Corvo
Flores °C Aveiro
Graciosa
São Jorge 21/70 20/68
Terceira 17/63 16/61
15/59 14/57 Beira Litoral
12/54
Faial 9/48
Pico
8 11 6.5 4.5
São Miguel hrs hrs hrs hrs
°C °C 28/82
25/77
23/73 23/73
19/66 17/63 20/68
17/63 16/61 17/63
12/54 12/54 14/57 14/57
12/54
8/46 LISBON
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Sines
Madeira MADEIRA
Porto Santo
°C
25/77 24/75
19/66 19/66
18/64
14/57 18/64 13/55
Lagos
Madeira
6 7.5 6 4.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
DOURO AND
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Douro
Average daily maximum
temperature
°C
Average daily 25/77
21/70
19/66
Bragança minimum temperature
9/48 15/59 13/55
Average daily hours 11/52
Braga
Trás-os-Montes of sunshine 5/41
THE BEIRAS
Beira Alta Trás-os-Montes
12/54 22/72
10/50 19/66
5/41 16/61
13/55 12/54
10/50
6/43
Évora 7.5 12 6 4.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
8.5 12.5 7 5
48 19 52 43 hrs hrs hrs hrs
mm mm mm mm
Baixo Alentejo
Baixo ALGARVE
Alentejo 35/95
°C 28/82 °C 22/72
24/75
23/73
20/68 20/68 18/64
16/61 16/61 14/57
13/55 13/55
9/48 10/50
6/43
Faro
9 12.5 7.5 5.5 8.5 12.5 7.5 5.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
31 1 51 70 46 2 48 49
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
0 kilometres 100
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
0 miles 50
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL 41
The Romans, who arrived in 218 BC, called was short-lived. Spain invaded in 1580 and
the Iberian Peninsula “Hispania.” When the ruled Portugal for the next 60 years.
Roman Empire collapsed in the 5th century, After Portugal regained independence, her
Hispania was overrun first by Germanic tribes, fortunes were restored by the discovery of
then by Moors from North Africa. Reconquest gold in Brazil and, in the 18th century, the
by the Christian kingdoms of the north began Marquês de Pombal, began to modernize
in earnest in the 11th century and it was the country. However, Napoleon’s invasion in
during this process that Portucale, a county of 1807, and the loss of Brazil in 1825, left Portugal
the kingdom of León and Castile, was declared impoverished and divided. Power struggles
independent by its first king, Afonso Henriques. between Absolutists and Constitutionalists
The kingdom expanded southwards to further weakened the country, and the debt
the Algarve and Portuguese sailors began to crisis worsened. In 1910, a republican
explore the African coast and Atlantic Ocean. revolution overthrew the monarchy.
Portugal’s Golden Age reached its zenith The economy continued to deteriorate until
during the reign of Manuel I, with Vasco da a military coup led to the dictatorship of
Gama’s voyage to India in 1498 and the António Salazar, who held power from 1928 to
discovery of Brazil two years later. Eastern 1968. Although Salazar died in 1970, the right-
trade brought incredible wealth to the wing authoritarian regime he had established
Portuguese coffers, but military defeat in continued until the Carnation Revolution of
Morocco meant that the country’s prosperity 1974; democracy was restored in 1976.
1248–79 1557–78
Afonso III Sebastião
1211–23 Afonso II
1185–1211 1580–98
Sancho I 1438–81
Afonso V Felipe I
1279–1325 Dinis (Philip II
of Spain)
1100 1220 1340 1460 1580
House of Burgundy Avis Hapsburg
1100 1220 1340 1460 1580
1325–57
Afonso IV
1598–1621
Felipe II (Philip
III of Spain)
1385–1433 João I
1495–1521 Manuel I
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL 43
1683–1706
Pedro II (regent
from 1668) 1828–53
Maria II 1932–68 António
Salazar (prime minister)
1816–26 2002–04
João VI José Manuel Durão Barroso (prime
(regent minister)
from 1792) 1861–89 Luís I
2011–15
Pedro Manuel Mamede Passos Coelho
1621–40
(prime minister)
Felipe III
(Philip IV
of Spain)
2016–
1908–10 Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa
Manuel II (President of the Republic)
2015–
António Costa
(prime minister)
1777–1816
Maria I and Pedro III
2004–05
Pedro Miguel de Santana Lopes
(prime minister)
2005–11
José Sócrates Carvalho Pinto de
1889–1908 Carlos I
Sousa (prime minister)
2006–16
Aníbal Cavaco Silva (President
of the Republic)
1995–2002
António Guterres (prime
minister)
1985–95
1706–50 João V Aníbal
Cavaco Silva
(prime minister)
and took over all their territories in eastern Spain, she still had BaeTica
Dolmen of Comenda
Dolmens such as this one near Évora
were communal burial chambers.
Many were built by the Neolithic
peoples who lived in the Iberian
Peninsula in the third millennium BC.
Floor Mosaic
Under Roman rule, the Where to See Prehistoric
wealthy built lavishly and Roman Portugal
decorated villas. This mosaic
of a triton (1st century AD) The Alentejo is rich in Stone Age
comes from the House of megaliths (see p312), while the
the Fountains just outside north has the two best examples
the walls of Conimbriga. of Celtiberian settlements at
Sanfins (p254) and Briteiros.
Many traces of the Roman
period, including roads and
bridges, are found throughout
Portugal. Apart from Conimbriga,
major sites, such as the villas at
Roman Amphora Pisões (p317) and Milreu (p331),
Garum, a popular, spiced are mainly in the south. Faro’s
sauce made of fermented fish, Museu Municipal (p333) has a
was manufactured at Tróia good collection of local finds.
(see p175) and exported in
27-litre (6-gal) amphorae
like this one.
Aqueduct
Road east to
Tomar
Visigothic
Buckle Citânia de Briteiros, a hilltop
The Visigoths settlement founded around the
were warlike 5th century AD, survived until
yet cultured well into the Roman period. It
people who was discovered in 1874 (p287).
strengthened
the position of
Christianity.
However, their
system of elective
monarchy led to
A domus factional disputes.
(private house
with a garden)
Reconstruction of Conímbriga
The extensive remains of Conímbriga (see p214) give a Évora’s temple dates from the
vivid picture of how thoroughly Romanized Portugal 2nd century AD (see p308). It is
became under the empire. The town expanded rapidly in almost all that remains of an
the 1st century AD, when it achieved the self-governing important Roman city.
status of a municipium. It fell to the Suevi in AD 468.
AD 73 Emperor Vespasian 415 Visigoths invade the peninsula 585 Visigoths take over
grants towns in the Iberian and drive out the Vandals and the Alani the Suevian kingdom,
Peninsula same rights as fixing their capital at
Latin towns in Italy AD 200 Christianity becomes Toledo in Spain
established in the peninsula
27 BC During the rule of the Emperor 409 Invasion by “barbarian” tribes from central
Augustus the Iberian Peninsula is Europe: the Vandals, the Alani and the Suevi Visigothic
divided into three; Lusitania is the chapel at
name given to the central province 411 Suevian kingdom established in São Frutuoso
south of the River Douro Galicia and northern Portugal (see p283)
46 INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Moorish Plate
Vivid depictions of a hunting
dog, a falcon and a gazelle
decorate this 11th-century
plate found at Mértola, a
river port on the Guadiana
used by eastern traders.
Coexistence
Under Moorish rule,
co-operation
between the faiths
was common. This
miniature from the
13th century shows
the friendly meeting
of two knights, one
a Christian, the
other a Moor.
711 Large Muslim army of Berbers and Arabs (the Moors) conquers 10th-century
Iberian Peninsula following dispute over Visigothic succession Hispano-Moorish
ivory casket
722 Christian victory at 868 Vímara Peres
Covadonga in Asturias marks takes Porto from 878 Christian forces
start of gradual reconquest the Moors recapture Coimbra
Capture of Lisbon
The Reconquest was
given the status of a
crusade by the pope.
Lisbon was taken in
1147 with the aid of
English troops bound
for the Holy Land.
1097 Alfonso VI of León and Castile entrusts 1139 Battle of Ourique; 1143 Treaty of 1165–9 Geraldo sem Pavor
Portucale to his son-in-law Henry of Burgundy Afonso Henriques Zamora captures a number of cities
declares himself establishes from the Almohads,
1086 Invasion of the Almoravids
King of Portugal Portugal’s including Évora and Badajoz
independence
Coat of arms of
Portugal
Fortifications of Serpa
King Dinis had a chain of fortified towns
and castles built along the borders with
Castile and Moorish Spain. This 16th-century
drawing shows the medieval walls and
towers of Serpa (see p316).
1200 1250
1173 Remains of St 1179 1248 Anarchic reign of Sancho II ends in 1256 Lisbon
Vincent brought Portugal his deposition by his brother Afonso III becomes
from Cabo de São recognized capital of
as kingdom 1249 Afonso III completes reconquest Portugal
Vicente to Lisbon of the Algarve, but his claim to
by the in place
pope Afonso III sovereignty is challenged by Castile of Coimbra
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL 49
St Isabel (1271–1336)
King Dinis did not approve of his Where to See
wife’s acts of charity. A legend Medieval Portugal
tells how the bread Queen Isabel
was about to distribute to the Of the many castles built or
poor turned into roses when she rebuilt in this period, the most
was challenged by her husband. picturesque are at Almourol (see
p195) and Óbidos. In the citadel
of Bragança (pp264–5) stands the
Domus Municipalis, a medieval
meeting hall. Most surviving
Romanesque buildings, however,
are religious: the cathedrals in
Porto, Lisbon (p76) and Coimbra
(p208) and many smaller churches
in the north, such as those at
Rates (p278), Roriz (p254) and
Six angels support Bravães (p273).
the recumbent king.
Tomb of Pedro I
The Gothic carvings on the royal
tomb at Alcobaça (see pp184–5)
St Bartholomew are the finest of their kind in Portugal. The Porto’s Sé (p246) has been much
is martyred by forthright Pedro, who ruled from 1357–67, altered, but the twin-towered
being flayed alive. is remembered chiefly for the tragic tale of west front retains its original
his murdered mistress, Inês de Castro, whose 13th-century character.
matching tomb stands facing Pedro’s.
Arms of English
royal family
Wedding of Manuel I
Manuel’s reign marked the Where to See
highest point in Portugal’s Gothic Portugal
golden age of discovery and
conquest. His marriages were Many churches include Gothic
made to reinforce ties with elements, such as the cloister of
Spain. Shown here is his third: the Sé in Porto (see p246) and the
to Leonor, sister of Carlos I of richly sculpted portal of the Sé in
Spain, in 1518. Évora (p310). Tomar’s Convento de
Cristo (pp192–3) is predominantly
Gothic, as is the church at Alcobaça
(pp184–5). The finest church,
however, is at Batalha, built in
João I drew support from the thanks for João I’s victory at the
merchants of Lisbon and Porto Battle of Aljubarrota. It also contains
rather than the nobles, many of major examples of Manueline
whom sided with Castile. architecture (see pp28–9).
Archbishop of
Braga
Portugal’s
bishops took
João’s side after Batalha (pp188–9) incorporates
the pope had a wide range of Gothic styles.
refused to
legitimize the
The plain, lofty nave contrasts
children of Inês with the ornamented exterior.
de Castro (see
pp48–9).
1500–1501 Gaspar
Corte Real reaches
Newfoundland.
1427 Diogo de
Silves discovers
Magellan (c.1480–1521) the Azores.
With Spanish funding,
Portuguese sailor Fernão 1434 Gil Eanes
de Magalhães, known as rounds Cape Bojador
Magellan, led the first (Western Sahara).
circumnavigation of the
globe (1519–22). He was 1460 Diogo
killed in the Philippines Gomes discovers
before the voyage’s end. the Cape Verde
archipelago.
1470s
Discovery of
island of São Tomé.
1482 Diogo
1500 Cão reaches
Pedro the mouth of
Álvares the Congo.
Cabral
1485 On his third
reaches
voyage Diogo Cão
Brazil.
reaches Cape Cross
(Namibia).
1488 Bartolomeu
Dias rounds Cape
of Good Hope.
African Ivory
Salt Cellar
This 16th-century
ivory carving shows
Portuguese warriors
The Adoration of the Magi supporting a globe
Painted for Viseu Cathedral shortly after Cabral and a ship. A sailor
returned from Brazil in 1500, this panel is attributed peers out from
to Grão Vasco (see p219). The second king, Baltazar, the crow’s nest
is depicted as a Tupi Indian. at the top.
the history of portugal 53
Key
Discoverers’ routes
Cloves
1543
Portuguese
arrive in Pepper
Japan.
Nutmeg
1513 Trading
1510 posts set up in
Capture China at Macau
and Canton. Cinnamon
of Goa.
1498 1512 Portuguese The Spice Trade
Vasco reach Ternate in Exotic spices were a great source
da Gama 1518 the Moluccas of wealth for Portugal. The much-
reaches Fortress (Spice Islands).
Calicut in
disputed Moluccas, or Spice
built in Islands, were purchased from
India. Colombo
Spain in 1528.
(Sri Lanka).
Lateen-rigged Caravel
These ships with three
triangular sails were
favoured by the first
Portuguese explorers who
sailed close to the African
coast. For later journeys
across the open ocean, square
sails were found more effective.
54 INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Spanish Rule
When Henrique, the Cardinal-King, died without an
heir in 1580, Philip II of Spain successfully claimed the
Portuguese throne through his mother, a daughter of
Manuel I. Under Spanish rule, influential positions were
held by Portuguese nobles, but a common foreign
policy led to a steady loss of colonies to the Dutch. In
1640 a Portuguese revolt took place in Lisbon and the
Duke of Bragança was chosen to become King João IV. Restoration of João IV
Spain retaliated and the ensuing war continued until Two weeks after his supporters had
1668. Meanwhile Portugal was forced to rely ousted the Spanish in 1640, João was
crowned on a platform outside the
economically on her overseas territories. Royal Palace in Lisbon.
Spanish Armada
In 1588 Philip II of Spain The Graça fort
hoped to invade England with was held by
his great fleet. It sailed from the Spanish.
Lisbon where it had been
equipped and provisioned.
War of Restoration
Portugal’s long war against Spain (1640–
68) was fought mostly in the Alentejo.
This azulejo panel from Palácio Fronteira
António Vieira in Lisbon (see p127) shows the Battle of
Vieira (1606–97) was a Linhas de Elvas (1658). A Portuguese army
Jesuit priest, writer and besieged in Elvas (see pp302–3) was
orator. He was sent relieved by fresh troops from Estremoz,
on many diplomatic who soundly defeated the Spanish.
missions and clashed
with the Inquisition
over his support for
Christianized Jews.
1580 Battle of Alcântara; Spanish invade and 1614 Publication of the 1624 Dutch 1631
Philip II of Spain becomes King of Portugal Peregrinação by Fernão capture Birth of
Mendes Pinto, an account Portuguese painter
1588 Spanish Armada of his travels in Asia in the colony of Bahia Josefa de
sets sail from Lisbon to mid-16th century Óbidos
in Brazil
invade England
1580 1600 1620
1583 Philip returns to Spain leaving 1626 Jesuit
his nephew, Cardinal-Archduke missionary
Albert of Austria, as viceroy Church of São Vicente de António de
1581 The king invites Italian architect Filippo Fora (see p74) by Filippo Andrade crosses
Terzi to Lisbon to remodel the Royal Palace Terzi and Baltasar Álvares, the Himalayas
and to build many churches completed in 1627 into Tibet
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL 55
Indo-Portuguese Contador
Luxury cabinets, known as Where to See
contadores, were made from teak 17th-Century Portugal
and ebony in Portugal’s overseas
colonies. Many came from Goa. Under Spanish rule an austere
This fine 17th-century example style of architecture prevailed,
is from the Museu Nacional de typified by São Vicente de
Arte Antiga (see pp98–101). Fora (see p74) in Lisbon, the Sé
Nova in Coimbra (p210) and
Santarém’s Jesuit church (p197).
At Vila Viçosa the style is evident
The besieged Portuguese army at in the long, plain façade of the
Elvas was retreating from a previous palace of the dukes of Bragança
unsuccessful campaign in Spain. (pp304–5). Colourful azulejos
from the period can be seen
Stout bastions deflected
the attackers’ cannon fire.
at Palácio Fronteira (p127)
and the Museu Nacional do
Azulejo (pp124–5).
Pedro II
1639 Portuguese vessels 1656 Death of João 1665 Spanish
barred from Japanese ports IV; his widow, Luisa defeated at Battle 1683 Pedro II
de Guzmán, is of Montes Claros becomes King
1654 Fall of Pernambuco; regent for young
Dutch driven from Brazil 1668 Spain recognizes
King Afonso VI
Portuguese independence
Queen’s apartments
João V
The basilica contains many
This miniature (1720) by Castriotto marble statues made by
shows João V drinking chocolate, a Italian masters set amid a
fashionable drink of the nobility, stunning scheme of yellow,
served to him by the Infante Miguel. pink, red and blue marble.
1703 Methuen Treaty with 1723 Building of Baroque 1755 Earthquake devastates
Britain secures market for staircase of Bom Jesus near Lisbon and much of
Portuguese wines in Britain, Braga (see pp284–5) southern Portugal
and for British woollen 1730 Consecration of basilica
goods in Portugal at monastery-palace at Mafra
1700 1720 1740
1706–50 Reign of Bom Jesus 1733 First Portuguese 1748 First water flows
João V “the do Monte opera, The Patience of along Águas Livres
Magnanimous”, a Socrates by António de aqueduct in Lisbon
period of great Almeida, performed at
1750 José I succeeds João V
artistic extravagance Royal Palace in Lisbon
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL 57
Águas Livres
Aqueduct Where to See
Opened in 1748, the 18th-Century Portugal
aqueduct was paid
for by the citizens of Baroque churches are found
Lisbon. João V had throughout Portugal, many with
it built across the ornate interiors of gilded wood
Alcântara valley (talha dourada) such as São
against the advice Francisco (see p247) and Santa
of his engineers. Clara (p245) in Porto. Tiled
interiors are also very common
(pp26–7). Coimbra University
houses the glittering Capela de
São Miguel and a fine Baroque
18th-Century Dressing Chair library. As well as the palaces
Monks’ This richly gilded walnut chair at Mafra and Queluz, many
refectory has sturdy cabriole legs, showing elegant country houses, notably
the influence of the English the Casa de Mateus, date from
Queen Anne style. this era (pp260–61).
Monastery at Mafra
Begun in 1717, this vast monument to João The King’s The Capela de São Miguel at
V incorporates a royal palace, a church and apartments are Coimbra University (pp212–13)
a monastery (see p158). It took 38 years to separated from was redecorated in Baroque
the Queen’s by style in the reign of João V.
complete and contains some 880 rooms a long gallery.
and 300 monks’ cells.
Zé Povinho
This long-suffering,
Everyman figure first
appeared in 1875,
created by artist and potter
Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro.
He expressed the
concerns of the
average Portuguese
working man.
The Drunkards by
José Malhôa Where to See
Malhôa (1855–1933) 19th-Century Portugal
created a virtual social
history of the period Neo-Classicism, which
in genre paintings like dominated the early part of the
this one, showing century, can be seen in Lisbon’s
a group of peasants Palácio da Ajuda (see p113).
sampling new wine. More Romantic historical styles
emerged later in the century,
ranging from the fantastical Neo-
Gothic of the Palácio da Pena
(pp166–7) in Sintra to the subtle
King Manuel II flees Orientalism of Monserrate (p161).
to England from Ericeira Notable stations associated with
aboard the royal yacht.
the spread of Portugal’s railways
include Lisbon’s Rossio and São
Bento in Porto (p245).
1933 Founding
of the Estado
Novo (New
State), harsh
dictatorship led
by Salazar. 1966 National football team with
Government brilliant Eusébio (centre, kneeling)
bans all strikes 1935 Death of poet reach quarter-finals of World Cup
and censors the Fernando Pessoa who wrote
1922 First flight across press, crushing under four different names, 1955 Armenian oil
the South Atlantic by opposition in four distinct styles. This magnate Calouste
Gago Coutinho and through brutal portrait by José de Almada Gulbenkian dies leaving
Sacadura Cabral secret police Negreiros is in Lisbon’s 2,355 million escudos
force, the PIDE Centro de Arte Moderna (£55 million) to set up
1911 Women
(see p122) a foundation for the
given the vote
arts and education
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1974 Carnation
Revolution: in a
near-bloodless
coup, Marcelo
Caetano’s regime is
overthrown by the 2004
MFA (Armed Forces Portugal hosts the Euro 2004
Movement), a group football tournament
of discontented left-
wing army officers 1995 António 2011 Prime Minister
Guterres of the José Socrates steps
Socialist Party down after two terms;
elected prime he is replaced by
minister Pedro Passos Coelho
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
Lisbon at a Glance
Portugal’s capital sits on the north bank of the Tagus
estuary, 17 km (11miles) from the Atlantic. The city
has a population of about 550,000, but the conur
bation of “Grande Lisboa”, which has engulfed many
surrounding villages, has nearly two million people.
Razed to the ground by the earthquake of 1755 (see
pp66–7), the city centre is essentially 18th century,
with carefully planned, elegant streets in the Baixa.
On the hills on either side of the centre, the narrow
streets of the Alfama and Bairro Alto make it a personal,
approachable city. Since its days of glory during the
Age of Discovery, when the city was at the forefront of The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
world trade, Lisbon has been an important port. Today houses paintings, decorative art and
the docks have moved; however, the great monuments sculpture. Of particular interest are the
Flemish-influenced Portuguese paintings
in Belém still bear witness to the city’s maritime past. such as this Apparition of Christ to the
Virgin by Jorge Afonso (see pp98–9).
Belém
(see pp102–13)
Further Afield
(see pp114–27)
The Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian exhi-
bits stunning art
and sculpture
bequeathed
to Portugal by
the millionaire
Calouste Gul-
benkian (see
pp118–21).
The Elevador de Santa
Justa, built at the turn
of the 20th century,
is a wrought-iron lift
decorated with filigree
that links the Baixa The Museu Nacional
quarter with the Largo do Azulejo, housed in
do Carmo (see p88). the cloisters of the
0 kilometres
Convento da Madre de
4
Deus, traces the history of
0 miles 2 Portuguese tiles and tile-
making (see pp124–5).
Baixa and
Avenida
(see pp82–89)
Alfama
(see pp70–81)
Bairro Alto
and Estrela
(see pp90–101)
The Castelo de
São Jorge, once a
Moorish castle and
then the abode of
the Portuguese kings,
was transformed in
the 1930s into tranquil
public gardens. The
battlements afford The Sé, Lisbon’s greatly
spectacular views of restored cathedral, is a sturdy
the city (see pp80–81). Romanesque building noted
for its beautiful rose window.
Ecclesiastical robes and silver
0 metres 500
are among the many religious
0 yards 500 objects on display in the
treasury (see p76).
66 LISBON
ALFAMA
It is difficult to believe that this humble Restoration work on some buildings is under
neighbourhood was once the most way in the most dilapidated areas, but daily
desirable quarter of Lisbon. For the Moors, life still revolves around local grocery stores
the tightly packed alleyways around the and small, cellar-like tavernas.
fortified castle comprised the whole city. Above the Alfama, the imposing Castelo
The seeds of decline were sown in the Middle de São Jorge crowns Lisbon’s eastern hill.
Ages when wealthy residents moved west This natural vantage point was a defensive
for fear of earthquakes, leaving the quarter stronghold and royal palace until the 16th
to fishermen and paupers. The buildings century; today it is a popular promenade,
survived the 1755 earthquake (see pp66–7) with spectacular views of the city and the
and, although there are no Moorish houses river from its reconstructed ramparts.
still standing, the quarter retains its kasbah- West of the Alfama stand the proud twin
like layout. Compact houses line steep towers of the Sé. To the northeast, the domed
streets and stairways, their façades strung church of Santa Engrácia and the white façade
with washing. of São Vicente de Fora dominate the skyline.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings
2 Museu de Artes Decorativas 8 Casa dos Bicos
Portuguesas q Castelo de São Jorge pp80–81
6 Museu Militar Belvederes
7 Museu do Fado
1 Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Churches w Miradouro da Graça
3 São Vicente de Fora Markets See also Street Finder
5 Santa Engrácia pp132–45
4 Feira da Ladra
9 Sé
0 Santo António à Sé
LÇA
DA D 0 metres 250
TE
CA
O
M
O N
0 yards 250
A
GRAÇ
R
.D
L. D
O DA
A
SLAGA
ASO L A
R U A DA VERÓ N I C
R .D
L ARG
AV
R.
CA RI
VA A
RES
OZ
LEIR S
OS
DO
IA
OPE
AR
C
.
D AR A
UR
CL
RÁR
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A
C. D
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T. D
O
A
IO
SA
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A M
CAMPO
A
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SM
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D
ISO
P
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R.
D O C A S T E LO M
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C.
CA CA L
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TA E S A TA C
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S
D
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EN
Santa
TI
S ÃO
TE
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JO
Apolónia
T
OM
R. D
AS
C O STA D
S
ES
CO L AS G E RA I S IO
É
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M
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DA
O
AC
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B
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S
. D TA
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A
RE UA DO
MAD
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M U
U DI
R
IQ
S
E IRA R
TE
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M
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Ã
O
R UA S ÃO J O
R UA D
OS BA
CALH OEIROS
An antique tram passing through one of Alfama’s picturesque streets For keys to symbols see back flap
72 LISBON
Street-by-Street: Alfama
A fascinating quarter at any time of day, the Alfama
comes to life in the late afternoon and early evening
when the locals emerge at their doorways and the
small tavernas start to fill. A new generation of
younger residents has resulted in a small number
of design-led shops and bars. Given the steep streets
and steps of the quarter, the least strenuous approach
is to start at the top and work your way down.
A walk around the maze of winding alleyways will On Largo das Portas do Sol, café tables
reveal picturesque corners and crumbling look out over the Alfama towards the
Tagus estuary. Portas do Sol was one of
churches as well as panoramic views from the entrance gates to the old city.
the shady terraces, such as the
L.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia. DA
S The church of Santa Luzia has
PO
Statue of St Vincent BE
CO
O SOL
DE
SA
Largo das Portas do Sol has its NT
A
own terrace viewpoint on a HE
LE
converted rooftop on the east N
A
side of the Santa Luzia church.
Castelo
de São
Jorge
ÃO
PIC
O
EL
ST
CA
R.
. DE ARAÚJO
Key
Suggested route
1. Miradouro de
Santa Luzia
The view from this
0 metres 25
bougainvillea-clad terrace
0 yards 25 spans the tiled roofs of the
Alfama toward the Tagus.
This is a pleasant place to
rest after a walk around
the area’s steep streets.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
A L FA M A 73
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder map 8
S
DA outside the 14th-century walls.
BE
CO
D
EL
O
U
M
IG
EX
BE M
CO
IA
O
DA
S
SÃ
CA
E
RD
D
O
A
SA
RU
LARGO DO
C H A FA R I Z
DE DENTRO
RO
PED
B
EC
SÃ
A
IN
3 São Vicente
de Fora
Largo de São Vicente. Map 8 E3.
Tel 218 810 500. @ 712, 734. v 28.
Church: Open 9am–1pm, 2:30–5pm
Tue–Sat. Monastery: (incl cloisters).
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 5
& to museum.
4 Feira da Ladra on the right Henry the Navigator portrays the influence that
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 E2. Open
(see p53). The fadista Amália this ever-popular and intensely
9am–6pm Tue & Sat. @ 712. v 28. Rodrigues (see p69) is also buried heartfelt genre of music has
here. A lift up to the dome offers had on the city over the past
The stalls of the so-called 360-degree views of the city. two centuries. A permanent
“Thieves’ Market” have occupied display traces the genre’s history
this site for over a century. As the from its origins in the early
fame of this market has grown, 6 Museu Militar 19th century to the present
bargains are increasingly hard to day, from Maria Severa, the first
Largo do Museu de Artilharia. Map 8 F3.
find amongst the mass of bric-a- fado diva, to more contemporary
Tel 218 842 567. @ 712, 728, 757. v
brac, but a few of the vendors 28. q Santa Apolónia. Open 10am– singers like Amália Rodrigues
have interesting wrought-iron 5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–12:30pm & 1:30– and Mariza. Regular temporary
work, prints and tiles, as well as 5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 exhibitions take place through-
second-hand clothes. Evidence May, 25 Dec. & (free Sun am). out the year on a range of
of Portugal’s colonial past is ∑ exercito.pt musical themes, along with the
reflected in the stalls selling occasional live fado concert.
African statuary, masks and Located on the site of a 16th-
jewellery. Fish, vegetables and century cannon foundry and arms
herbs are sold in the central depot, this museum contains an 8 Casa dos Bicos
wrought-iron marketplace. extensive display of arms, uni-
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. Map 8 D4.
forms and historical documents.
Tel 218 802 040. @ 728, 746, 759.
Visits begin in the Vasco da Gama v 18, 25. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat.
Room with a collection of &
cannons and modern murals
depicting the discovery of the This conspicuous house, faced
sea route to India. The Salas da with diamond-shaped stones
Grande Guerra display exhibits (bicos), was built in 1523 for Brás
related to World War I. Other de Albuquerque, illegitimate son
rooms focus on the evolution of of Afonso, Viceroy of India and
weapons, from flints to spears to conqueror of Goa and Malacca.
rifles. The large courtyard, flanked The façade is an adaptation of a
by cannons, tells the story of style popular in Europe during the
Portugal in tiled panels, from the 16th century. The two top storeys,
The multicoloured marble interior beneath Christian Reconquest to World ruined in the earthquake of 1755,
Santa Engrácia’s dome War I. The Portuguese artillery were restored in the 1980s,
section displays the wagon recreating the original from old
5 Santa Engrácia used to transport the triumphal views of Lisbon in tile panels and
arch to Rua Augusta (see p88). engravings. In the interim the
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 F2.
building was used for salting fish
Tel 218 854 820. v 28.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means
(Apr–Sep: to 6pm). Closed 1 Jan, 7 Museu do Fado street of the cod fishermen).
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 Nowadays it houses the head-
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1. Map
quarters of the José Saramago
8 E4. Tel 218 823 470. @ 728, 735,
One of Lisbon’s most striking 745, 759, 794. Open 10am–6pm Tue– Foundation. In addition to a
landmarks, the soaring dome of Sun. & ∑ museudofado.pt permanent exhibition dedicated
Santa Engrácia punctuates the to this Nobel Prize-winning
skyline in the east of the city. Alfama is considered the true author, there are often concerts
The original church collapsed in home of fado and this museum and debates taking place here.
a storm in 1681. The first stone
of the Baroque monument, laid
in 1682, marked the beginning
of a 284-year saga which led to
the invention of a saying that a
Santa Engrácia job was never
done. The church was not
completed until 1966.
The interior is paved with
coloured marble and crowned by
a giant cupola. As the National
Pantheon, it houses cenotaphs
of Portuguese heroes, such as
Vasco da Gama (see p110) and
Afonso de Albuquerque, Viceroy
of India (1502–15) on the left, and The curiously faceted Casa dos Bicos, and surrounding buildings
76 LISBON
0 Santo António
à Sé
Largo Santo António à Sé 24. Map 7
C4. Tel 218 869 145. @ 737. v 12,
28. Open 8am–7pm daily (to 8pm
Sat & Sun). 5 Museu Antoniano:
Tel 218 860 447. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. &
S
HA
OZIN
. Battlements SC
Visitors can climb the towers and A
AD
walk along the reconstructed RU
ramparts of the castle walls.
. Observation Terrace
This large shaded square
affords spectacular views over
Lisbon and the Tagus. Local
men play backgammon
and cards under the trees.
Key
Suggested route
O D
ST
CA
O
O R
D
Z
U
CR
ECO
A
NT
SA
LHIMENTO
E
D
A
RU
BE
CO
DO
FOR
NO D
Santa Cruz
The narrow, cobbled streets of the
O
CASTELO
0 yards 50
IRA
O DA FE Rua de Santa Cruz
O CHÃ
RUA D do Castelo
Peeling façades,
potted plants and
Porta de São Jorge washing strung
between windowsills
characterize the pretty
streets south of the
Castelo de São Jorge.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
LISBON 83
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Streets and Squares
4 Museu da Sociedade de Geografia 2 Avenida da Liberdade
Churches 3 Praça dos Restauradores
5 Rossio
9 Nossa Senhora da Conceição
6 Praça da Figueira
Velha
8 Rua Augusta
Parks and Gardens 0 Praça do Comércio
1 Jardim Botânico
Lifts 0 metres 250
7 Elevador de Santa Justa
R.
0 yards 250
LU
AN
CI
RU A D
O
RU
CO
A
RD
EI R
RO O
DO
ES
I
UE
AN
LG
C. DOS M Á R T I R E R. J
PA S
TA
SA
TA
M
ADS
RA
AR
IÇ
BA O
TA
R.
A
V
R.
M
EN
TELHAL
AN
ID
UE
SD
A
B . SOU
L
AP
SA
RU
UL
RUA SALITRE
O
DO
ÁT R
A
IO D
D
RU
D
Avenida
I
A
A
DE
A
RU
. AN
DE
SA
DR A
SÁ
O
O
DE
JO
LI
LAZ A
RU
SE
PA L M A
BE
A
RIA
CA
D
EG
RO
A
RD
AL
LÇA
E SC DA
O LA
A
R.
A
RU
POL DE Martim
D
DA
RU
I T ÉC RU
E
NI C SAN A Moniz
DE
D.
A TO DA
DA
RUA
DA AN G
PO
SAN TA NA
S LÓ
TA TÓN
RT
RI
I PA IO A
AS
D
M ONIZ
DE
A
AG
RU
S
S.
LÓ R I A
AN
TA
TIM
O
Restauradores
AR
A M
Rossio Rossio
RU RU
RUA
RUA
RUA
RUA
A D
R. DO CARMO
RUA
RUA
R.
DOS
A
DOS
DOS
FA N
DA
D
MA
OS
AU
QUE
DA
REA
DOU
IR O S
R. DO
CO R
AUG
LEN
R. N
PRA
SAP
RAD
REEI
(R.
CRU
UST
TA
OV
A
AT E
O RE
ROS
DO
A D
A
CIFI
S
IRO
ÃO
OU
JU L I
O A
XO
ÃO
DE S
RO
LMA
RU A RUA D
O S BACA
)
CIO LHOEIRO
MÉR S
UE
DA
CO
DO IQ
See also Street Finder RUA NR
L HE
ENA M
pp132–45 O ARS DO
R. D TE
AN
A IN
F
j o
T e
AV E N I
D Terreiro
do Paço
Estação Fluvial
Terreiro do Paço
Street view of the Elevador de Santa Justa For keys to symbols see back flap
84 lisbon
Street-by-Street: Restauradores
This is the busiest part of the city, especially the central
squares of Rossio and Praça da Figueira. Totally rebuilt after
the earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7), the area was
one of Europe’s first examples of town planning.
Today, the large neo-Classical buildings on the
wide streets and squares house business
offices. The atmosphere and surroundings
are best absorbed from one of the busy
pavement cafés. Rua das Portas de santo
Antão, a pedestrianized street where
restaurants display tanks of live lobsters,
is more relaxing for a stroll. T ÃO
E SANTO AN
. D
T
S IM
O ES
D OR RD
ÇA D JA
A RA A
PR AU RU
T
R ES
Restauradores
Key
Suggested route
3 Praça dos
Restauradores
This large tree-lined square,
named after the men who Rossio station,
fought during the 1640 War designed by José
of Restoration, is dominated Luìs Monteiro, is
by a tall obelisk with an an eye-catching
ornate pedestal. There are late 19th-century
café terraces on the square’s Neo-Manueline
patterned pavements. building with two
Moorish-style
horseshoe arches.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
Baixa and avenida 85
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia BAixA And
AVenidA
This collection
includes unusual AlfAmA
items from BAirro Alto
And estrelA
Portugal’s
former colonies.
te j o
Locator Map
see lisbon street finder map 7
R
U
A
R
S
O
D Teatro Nacional Dona It is a restaurant (see p398) and a
N
A
ÇA D
RU
PRA EIRA
FIGU
A 1
DE 0
DE
ZE
MB
RO
Café
Pastelaria
Nicola
Rossio Suiça
Tabacaria
Monaco 5 . Rossio
0 metres
This attractively paved square is a social
50
focal point with cafés, pastelarias and
0 yards 50 the National Theatre on the north side.
86 LISBON
enjoyment of the
park was restricted
to Lisbon’s high
society and walls
and gates ensured
the exclusion of the
lower classes. In 1821,
when the Liberals
came to power, the
Bridge and pond shaded by trees in the barriers were pulled
Jardim Botânico down and the
Avenida and square
1 Jardim Botânico became open to all.
The boulevard you
Rua da Escola Politécnica 58. Map 4
see today was built in
F1. Tel 213 921 800. @ 758. q Rato.
Gardens: Open Apr–Sep: 9am–8pm
1879–82 in the style
daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). Closed of the Champs-
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ jb.ul.pt Elysées in Paris.
Museu Nacional de História Natural The wide tree-lined
e da Ciência: Tel 213 921 808. Open avenue became a
10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat focus for pageants,
& Sun. & (free until 2pm Sun). festivities and
∑ museus.ulisboa.pt demonstrations.
A war memorial
The complex, owned by the stands as a tribute
University of Lisbon, comprises to those who died
2 museums and 4 hectares in World War I. The 19th-century monument in honour of the Restoration in
(10 acres) of gardens. The avenue retains a Praça dos Restauradores
botanical gardens have a certain elegance with
distinct air of neglect. However, fountains and café tables 3 Praça dos
it is worth paying the entrance shaded by trees, but it no longer
fee to wander among the exotic makes for a peaceful stroll. Restauradores
trees and dense paths of the The once majestic thoroughfare, Map 7 A2. @ 709, 711, 736 & many
gardens as they descend from 90 m (295 ft) wide and decor- other routes. q Restauradores.
the main entrance towards ated with abstract pavement
Rua da Alegria. A magnificent patterns, is divided by seven The square, distinguished by
avenue of lofty palms connects lanes of traffic linking Praça dos its soaring obelisk, erected in
the two levels. Restauradores and Praça 1886, commemorates the
The Museu Nacional de Marquês de Pombal to the country’s liberation from
História Natural e da Ciência north. Some original mansions the Spanish yoke in 1640 (see
(Natural History and Science are preserved, including the pp54–5). The bronze figures
Museum) houses a number Neo-Classical Tivoli cinema at on the pedestal depict Victory,
of permanent exhibitions. No. 188, with an original holding a palm and a crown,
Some of them, like Plants in 1920s kiosk outside, and Casa and Freedom. The names and
the Age of Dinosaurs and Lambertini with its colourful dates inscribed on the obelisk
Mathematical Games Through mosaic decoration at No. 166. are those of the battles of the
the Ages, are very popular with However, many Art Nouveau War of Restoration.
school children. façades have unfortunately On the west side, the Palácio
given way to newer ones Foz houses a tourist office and
occupied by offices, hotels or work premises. It was built by
2 Avenida da shopping complexes. Francesco Savario Fabri in
Liberdade 1755–77 for the
Marquês de Castelo-
Map 7 A2. @ 709, 711, 736 & many
other routes. q Restauradores,
Melhor, and was
Avenida. renamed after the
Marquês de Foz,
Following the earthquake of who lived here in the
1755 (see pp66–7), the Marquês 19th century. The smart
de Pombal created the Passeio Avenida Palace Hotel on
Público (public promenade) in the southwest side of the
the area now occupied by the square, was designed by
lower part of Avenida da José Lúis Monteiro (1849–
Liberdade and Praça dos Detail from the memorial to the dead of 1942), who also built Rossio
Restauradores. Despite its name, World War I in Avenida da Liberdade railway station (see p87).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
BAIXA AND AVENIDA 87
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 100.
Map 7 A2. Tel 213 425 401.
@ 709, 711, 736. q Restauradores.
Open 3pm 1st Tue of month. 8
compulsory. - 7
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings and Districts
5 Museu Nacional de Arte 3 Chiado
Contemporânea – 4 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
Museu do Chiado 7 Solar do Vinho do Porto
6 Museu da Marioneta 0 Palácio de São Bento
q Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Gardens and Belvederes
pp98–101
8 Miradouro de São Pedro de
Churches See also Street Finder
Alcântara
pp132–45
1 São Roque 9 Praça do Príncipe Real
2 Igreja do Carmo w Jardim da Estrela
e Basílica da Estrela
RU
HO
A
AL D
RV A E
CA T. D
SC OLA
DE E S. QUITE SA PO
VA N
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L
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CAL
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BERNARDO
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R.
EC
D
R.
MAR
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RU
R.
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A
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A
RO
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SAO
RU
MA O
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R, NOVA DO LOUREIRO
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AR
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ATA L A I
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EN
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RG GAR
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A
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0 metres 250
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The ruins of the 14th-century Igreja do Carmo, destroyed by the 1755 earthquake For keys to symbols see back flap
92 LISBON
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de Camões A
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BAIXA AND
Glória The Museu de São Roque AVENIDA
Tejo
Locator Map
IA
Cervejaria
1. São Roque
R
Trindade
E
Opulent mosaics
IS
is a popular
and semiprecious
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D
Baroque Capela de
decorated with
E
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azulejo panels.
A
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16th-century church
D
of São Roque.
IN
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View across the city to Castelo de São Jorge from Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A 97
qMuseu Nacional de
Arte Antiga
Portugal’s national art collection is housed in a 17th-century
palace that was built for the counts of Alvor. In 1770 it was
acquired by the Marquês de Pombal and remained in the
possession of his family for over a century. Inaugurated in
1884, the museum is known to locals as the Museu das Janelas
Verdes, referring to the former green windows of the palace.
In 1940 a modern annexe (including the main façade) was
added. This was built on the site of the St Albert Carmelite
monastery, which was partially demolished between 1910 . St Jerome
and 1920. The only surviving feature is the chapel, This masterly portrayal of old age
by Albrecht Dürer expresses one
now integrated into the museum.
of the central dilemmas of
Renaissance humanism: the
ephemeral nature of man (1521).
61
60
62
59 63
St Augustine by Piero
della Francesca
64
58
Stairs down to
65 -0m
57
56
66
55
68
The Temptations of
St Anthony by 54 67
69
Hieronymus Bosch
53
70
48
52
49
The Mystic Marriage of 51
St Catherine
Hans Holbein the Elder’s balanced 50
composition of the Mystic
Marriage of St Catherine (1519) is St Leonard
set among majestic Renaissance This sculpture of the saint was made
architecture, with saints in by Florentine sculptor Andrea della
detailed contemporary costumes Robbia (1435–1525), the nephew
sewing or reading. of Luca della Robbia.
Key to Floorplan
European painting
Gallery Guide
Portuguese painting and sculpture The ground floor (not shown)
houses research facilities and a
Portuguese and Chinese ceramics
gallery for temporary exhibitions.
Oriental and African art The first level contains 14th–19th-
Silver, gold and jewellery century European paintings,
European Decorative arts decorative arts and furniture.
Chapel of St Albert
Jewellery, Oriental and African
art, and Chinese and Portuguese
Portuguese Furniture
ceramics are on the second
Cribs floor. The top floor is dedicated
Non-exhibition space to local art and sculpture.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA 99
3
4 Panels of St Vincent VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This polyptych, attributed to
2 Practical Information
Nuno Gonçalves, dates from
5 about 1470 (see p100). Rua das Janelas Verdes.
Map 4 D4.Tel 213 912 800.
1 ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
6 Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
1 May, 13 Jun, 25 Dec.
7 & (free first Sun of month).
8 (213 912 800). 7 - 0
8
Transport
13 @ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
9
12 10 Faïence Violin
Second
11 The museum’s ceramics collection
floor includes many decorative items
Third made in Portugal for the royal family.
27 floor This 19th-century objet d’art by
28 Wenceslau Cifka is decorated with the
26 royal coat of arms and portraits of
29 the Italian Baroque composers,
Scarlatti and Corelli.
25
30
21
24
23 . Namban
15 19 22
Screens
14 20 This detail
from one of the
museum’s
16 16th-century
18 Japanese screens
illustrates a
17 contemporary
43
trading scene and
the Portuguese
42 fashion at the time.
41
44
39
40
31
45
33
32 Entrance
34
35
First floor
The Chapel of
St Albert, dating
from the 1500s, has Ivory Salt Cellar
a Baroque interior Portuguese knights and
decorated with blue and dignitaries are carved on this
white azulejos. It is currently 16th-century ivory salt cellar
closed for renovation. from Benin, West Africa.
100 LISBON
Portuguese and
Chinese Ceramics
The extensive collection of
ceramics enables visitors to trace
the evolution of Chinese porcelain
and Portuguese faïence and to
see the influence of oriental
Central panel of The Temptations of St Antony by Hieronymus Bosch designs on Portuguese pieces,
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA 101
Queen Isabel Infante João Infante Fernão, Knight Duke of City official
(King João II) the king’s brother Bragança holding a fragment
King Afonso V St Vincent of St Vincent’s skull
and vice versa. From the 16th many Medieval and Renaissance
century Portuguese ceramics Silver, Gold and Jewellery pieces, as well as Baroque and
show a marked influence of The collection of ecclesiastical Neo-Classical items from the
Ming, and conversely the treasures includes King Sancho I’s reigns of King João V, King
Chinese pieces bear Portuguese gold cross (1214) and the José and Queen Maria I. Of
motifs such as coats of arms. By Belém monstrance (1506) the foreign furniture, French
the mid-18th century individual (see p28). Also on display is pieces from the 18th century
potters had begun the 16th-century are prominent.
to develop an Madre de Deus reliquary, The textiles include 17th-
increasingly which allegedly holds century bedspreads, tapestries,
personalized, a thorn from the many of Flemish origin, such
European style, crown of Christ. as the Baptism of Christ (16th
with popular, Highlight of the century), embroidered rugs
rustic designs. foreign collection and Arraiolos carpets (see p307).
The collection also is a sumptuous set of
includes ceramics Chinese porcelain vase, rare 18th-century
from Italy, Spain and 18th century silver tableware.
the Netherlands. Commissioned by
José I from the Paris
workshop of François-Thomas
Oriental and African Art Germain, the 1,200 pieces
The collection of ivories and include intricately decorated
furniture, with their European tureens, sauce boats and salt
motifs, further illustrates the cellars. The rich collection of
reciprocal influences of jewels came from the convents,
Portugal and her colonies. originally donated by members
The 16th-century predilection of the nobility and wealthy
for the exotic gave rise to a bourgeoisie on entering the
huge demand for items such religious orders.
as carved ivory hunting horns
from Africa. The fascinating
16th-century Japanese Namban Decorative Arts
screens show the Portuguese Furniture, tapestries and textiles,
trading in Japan. Namban-jin liturgical vestments and bishops’
(barbarians from the south) is mitres are among the wide
the name the Japanese gave range of objects on display. Holy relics of Queen Leonor (c.1458-1525),
to the Portuguese. The furniture collection includes Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
LISBON 103
BELÉM
At the mouth of the River Tagus, where the relatively green suburb with many museums,
caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery, parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
Belém is inextricably linked with Portugal’s riverside setting with cafés and a promenade.
Golden Age (see pp50–53). When Manuel I On sunny days there is a distinct seaside feel
came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits to the embankment.
of those heady days of expansion, building Before the Tagus receded, the monks in
grandiose monuments and churches that the monastery used to look out onto the river
mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Manueline style of architecture (see pp28–9) Avenida da Índia cut central Belém off from
are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the the picturesque waterfront, and silver and
Torre de Belém. Today Belém is a spacious, yellow trains rattle past regularly.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Churches and Monasteries Monuments
2 Museu Nacional dos Coches 4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos pp108–9 9 Monument to the Discoveries
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia w Ermida de São Jerónimo Cultural Centres
6 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian e Igreja da Memória
8 Centro Cultural de Belém
7 Museu de Marinha Historic Buildings
0 Museu de Arte Popular
1 Palácio de Belém
Parks and Gardens q Torre de Belém p112 A
UD
AJ
3 Jardim Botânico Tropical t Palácio Nacional da Ajuda C. DO
M IR A N T E
Á
RC O A
ZA
MERCÊS
I
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S
VE
ME M
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NÇ
C. DA
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pp132–45
DA I
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0 metres 400
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Manueline arches in the cloister of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos For keys to symbols see back flap
104 LISBON
Street-by-Street: Belém
Portugal’s former maritime glory is evident
across Belém, specifically expressed in the
imposing buildings such as the Jerónimos
monastery. In an attempt to revive and celebrate
Portugal’s Golden Age, Salazar ordered the area
along the waterfront, which had silted up since
the days of the caravels, was restructured to
celebrate the former greatness of the nation. 4 . Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Praça do Império was laid out for the Exhibition Vaulted arcades and richly carved columns
of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praça adorned with foliage, exotic animals and
navigational instruments decorate the Manueline
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to cloister of the Jerónimos monastery.
Portugal’s first viceroy of India. The royal
Palácio de Belém, restored with gardens and
a riding school by João V in the 18th century, Antiga Confeitaria de
briefly housed the royal family after the Belém,a 19th-century café, sells
pastéis de Belém, rich custard in
1755 earthquake.
a flaky pastry cup.
T. M A R TA
L ARGO
P IN TO
DOS
JERÓNIMOS
IO
ÉR
MP
D O I
A
AÇ
PR
RUA VIEIRA P
O
Torre
de Belém
(see p112)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
BELÉM 105
BELÉM
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Central
Lisbon
RUA DE BELÉM
RTUENSE
1 Palácio de Belém
Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
(pink palace) because of its faded pink
façade, the former royal palace is the
residence of the Portuguese president.
It also houses the Museu da Presidência
da República.
1 Palácio de Belém
Praça Afonso de Albuquerque.
Map 1 C4. Tel 213 614 600. @ 714,
727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. £ Belém.
Belém Palace: Open 10am–4:30pm
Sat. 8 compulsory for large groups
(book ahead: 213 614 980). & Museu
da Presidencia: Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Fri, 10am–6pm & 2–6pm Sat & Sun.
& (free until 1pm Sun).
∑ museu.presidencia.pt
Built by the Conde de Aveiras Pink façade of the Palácio de Belém, the official residence of the President of Portugal
in 1559, this palace once had
gardens bordering the river. In 2 Museu Nacional chairs dating from the 17th,
the 18th century it was bought
by João V, who radically altered
dos Coches 18th and 19th centuries. By
contrast, the collection was
it, rendering the interior suitably Praça Afonso de Albuquerque. Map 2 moved to a new, modern build
lavish for his amorous liaisons. D4. Tel 210 732 319. @ 714, 727, 728, ing by the Brazilian architect
When the 1755 earthquake 729, 751. v15. £ Belém. Open Paulo Mendes da Rocha,
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
(see pp66–7) struck, the king, winner of the 2006 Pritzker
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free first Sun
José I, and his family were Prize, in 2015.
of month). 8 available for groups. 7
staying here. Fearing another ∑ museudoscoches.pt
Made in Portugal, Italy,
earth tremor, they set up camp France, Austria and Spain, the
in tents in the palace grounds The museum’s collection of coaches range from the plain
and the building was used as coaches is arguably the finest in to the preposterous. The main
a hospital. Today the elegant Europe and takes the accolade gallery, in Louis XVI style with
palace is the official residence of of the world’s original coach splendid painted ceiling, is the
the President of Portugal. The museum. First occupying the old setting for two rows of coaches
Presidential Museum contains Royal Riding School, the build created for Portuguese royalty.
personal items and state gifts ing was adapted to showcase a The collection starts with the
of former presidents, as well unique and opulent collection comparatively simple 17th
as the official portrait gallery. of coaches, carriages, and sedan century red leather and wood
coach of Philip II of Spain (see
pp54–5). The coaches become
increasingly sumptuous,
interiors lined with red velvet
and gold, exteriors carved and
decorated with allegories
and royal coats of arms.
The rows end with three
huge Baroque coaches made
in Rome for the Portuguese
ambassador to the Vatican,
Dom Rodrigo Almeida e Menezes,
the Marquês de Abrantes.
The epitome of pomp and
extravagance, these 5tonne
carriages are embellished
with a plush interior and
lifesize gilded statues.
The neighbouring gallery
has further examples of royal
carriages, including two
wheeled cabriolets, landaus
and ponydrawn chaises
used by young members of
the royal family. There is also
a 19thcentury Lisbon cab,
painted black and green, a
colour scheme that was aban
doned in the 1990s in favour
Rear view of a coach built in 1716 for the Marquês de Abrantes, of beige but that is now making
the Portuguese ambassador to Pope Clement XI a comeback. The 18thcentury
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
BELÉM 107
3 Jardim Botânico
Tropical
Largo do Jerónimos. Map 1 C4. Tel
213 921 850/1. @ 727, 728, 729, 751.
v 15. Open Feb, Mar & Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Apr & Sep: 10am–7pm
daily; May–Aug: 10am– 8pm daily; Washington palms in the Jardim Botânico Tropical
Nov–Jan: 10am–5pm daily. Closed
public hols. & 7 5 Museu Nacional dating from 1800–500 BC. This
room has been refurbished to
Also known as the Jardim do
de Arqueologia allow more of the magnificent
Ultramar, this peaceful park Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213 jewellery, unseen by the public
with ponds, waterfowl and 620 000. @ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. for decades, to be shown.
peacocks attracts surprisingly v 15. £ Belém. Open 10am–6pm
few visitors. Laid out at the Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
start of the 20th century as the 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of month). 6 Planetário
7 ∑ museuarqueologia.pt
research centre of the Institute Calouste
for Tropical Sciences, it is more
of an arboretum than a flower The long west wing of the
Gulbenkian
garden. The emphasis is on Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (see Praça do Império. Map 1 B4.
rare and endangered tropical pp108–9), formerly the monks’ Tel 213 620 002. @ 727, 728, 751.
and subtropical trees and dormitory, has been a v 15. Open times vary so check
plants. Among the most museum since 1893. website for details. & 7
∑ ccm.marinha.pt
striking are dragon trees, Reconstructed in the
native to the Canary middle of the 19th
Islands and Madeira, century, the building is a Financed by the Gulbenkian
monkey puzzle trees poor imitation of the Foundation (see p121), this
from South America and Manueline original. modern building sits incongru-
a handsome avenue of The museum houses ously beside the Jerónimos
Washington palms. The Portugal’s main monastery. Inside, the Planet-
oriental garden, with its Visigothic gold buckle, archaeological arium reveals the mysteries of
streams, bridges and Museu de Arqueologia research centre and the cosmos. There are shows in
hibiscus, is heralded by the exhibits, from Portuguese, Spanish, English and
a large Chinese-style gateway sites all over the country, French explaining the move-
that represented Macau in the include a gold Iron Age brace- ment of the stars and our solar
Exhibition of the Portuguese let found in the Alentejo and system, as well as presentations
World in 1940 (see p104). Visigothic jewellery from Beja on more specialist themes, such
The research buildings are (see p317), Roman ornaments as the constellations or the Star
located in the Palácio dos and early 8th-century Moorish of Bethlehem (Belém).
Condes da Calheta, whose artifacts. The main Egyptian
interior walls are covered and Greco-Roman section is
with azulejos. The palace is strong on funerary art, featuring
open to the public only for figurines, tombstones, masks,
temporary exhibitions. terracotta amulets and funeral
cones inscribed with hiero-
glyphics alluding to the solar
4 Mosteiro dos system. The dimly lit Room
Jerónimos of Treasures has an exquisite
collection of coins, necklaces, The dome of the Planetário Calouste
See pp108–9. bracelets and other jewellery Gulbenkian
108 LISBON
Refectory
The walls of the refectory are tiled with
18th-century azulejos. The panel at the
northern end depicts the Feeding
of the Five Thousand.
KEY
1 Gallery
2 The west portal was
designed by the French sculptor
Nicolau Chanterène.
3 The modern wing, built in
Entrance to church
1850 in Neo-Manueline style, houses
and cloister
the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
(see p107).
4 The fountain is in the shape of a
lion, the heraldic animal of St Jerome.
5 The chapterhouse holds the
tomb of Alexandre Herculano
(1810 –77), historian and first mayor
of Belém.
6 The chancel was commissioned
in 1572 by Dona Catarina, wife of
João III.
7 The tombs of Manuel I, his wife View of the Monastery
Dona Maria, João III and Catarina are This 17th-century scene by Felipe Lobo shows
supported by elephants. women at a fountain in front of the Mosteiro
dos Jerónimos.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
BELÉM 109
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
£ Belém.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held aloft
by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.
. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
João de Castilho unites Tomb of King Sebastião
religious themes, such as The tomb of the “longed for” Dom
this image of St Jerome, Sebastião stands empty. The young
with the secular, exalting king never returned from battle in
the kings of Portugal. 1578 (see p51).
110 LISBON
0 MAAT – Museu de
Arte, Arquitetura e
Tecnologia
Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, 1300598.
Map 2 D5. Tel 210 028 130.
@ 727, 728, 729. v15. £ Belém.
Open 12–8pm Wed–Mon. Closed
1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. &
∑ maat.pt;
Afonso V
(1432–81),
patron of the
first explorers Pedro Álvares
Cabral (1467–1520),
Henry the Navigator discoverer of Brazil
(1394–1460)
Fernão Magalhães Padrão erected
Vasco da Gama (Magellan), who crossed by Diogo Cão in the
(1460–1524) the Pacific in 1520–21 Congo in 1482
112 LISBON
Armillary spheres
and nautical rope are
symbols of Portugal’s
seafaring prowess.
Renaissance Loggia
The elegant arcaded
loggia, inspired by
Italian architecture,
gives a light touch to
the defensive
battlements of
the tower.
Royal coat Chapel
Virgin and Child of arms of
A statue of Our Lady of Safe Manuel I
Battlements are
Homecoming faces the sea, a decorated with the
symbol of protection for sailors cross of the Order of
on their voyages of discovery. Christ (see pp28–9).
King’s Room
Gangway
Entrance to shore
FURTHER AFIELD
Most of the outlying sights, which include The charming Palácio Fronteira, decorated with
some of Lisbon’s finest museums, are easily splendid tiles, is one of the many villas built
accessible by bus or metro from the city for the aristocracy. Those interested in tiles
centre. A ten-minute walk north from the will also enjoy the Museu Nacional do Azulejo
gardens of the Parque Eduardo VII brings in the cloisters of the Madre de Deus convent.
you to Portugal’s great cultural complex, Visitors with a spare half-day can cross the
the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, set in Tagus to the Cristo Rei monument. Northeast
a pleasant park. Few tourists go further north of Lisbon is the vast oceanarium, Oceanário
than the Gulbenkian, but the Museu de Lisboa de Lisboa, in the Parque das Nações, which
on Campo Grande is worth a detour for its includes other family-oriented attractions,
fascinating overview of Lisbon’s history. hotels and shops.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Architecture
3 Fundaçâo Oriente Museu 5 Praça Marquês de Pombal
7 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – 9 Campo Pequeno Key
Coleção do Fundador pp118–21 y Aqueduto das Águas Livres
8 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – u Palácio Fronteira
Main sightseeing areas
Coleção Moderna Parks and Gardens Motorway
0 Museu da Água Major road
6 Parque Eduardo VII
q Museu Nacional do Azulejo
i Parque do Monteiro-Mor Minor road
pp124–5
r Museu de Lisboa Zoos
Modern Architecture e Oceanário de Lisboa
t Jardim Zoológico
1 Cristo Rei
2 Ponte 25 de Abril 0 kilometres 4
4 Centro Colombo 0 miles 2
w Parque das Nações
Vila Franca
Sights Beyond the City Centre de Xira
A9
17
Lisbon
IC
Pontinha Olivais
IC2
A1
IP1 –
IC1
Amadora
Campo
Grande
IC19
9
IC
IC1
Benfica
7 1
N1
17
PARQUE Xabregas
Estefânia
FLORESTAL
Carnaxide A5
IC1
5– DE
Cascais MONSANTO
Graça
IC17
N6
Alcântara
Montijo
N6
Belém
Tejo
IP7 – A2 (E1
Barreiro
Cacilhas
)
Almada
Porto
N10
Decorative tiles (azulejos) and statuary in the Palácio Fronteira For keys to symbols see back flap
116 LISBON
Ponte 25 de Abril linking central Lisbon with Margem Sul, the south bank of the Tagus
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
FURTHER AFIELD 117
6 Parque
Eduardo VII
Praça Marquês de Pombal. Map 5 B4.
q Marquês de Pombal. @ 711,
712, 736. Estufa Fria: Tel 213 882 278.
Open 10am–7pm daily (Nov–Mar:
9am–5pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. &
16
. Diana
This fine marble statue
(1780) by the French
sculptor Jean-Antoine
Houdon, was once owned
by Catherine the Great of
Russia. The graceful Diana,
goddess of the hunt, is
portrayed in motion, with
a bow and arrow in hand.
Entrance
Stairs to
0m
Transport
q Praça de Espanha or
São Sebastião. @ 713, 716,
726, 742, 756.
Gallery Guide
The galleries are laid out both
chronologically and geograph-
ically, the first section (rooms
6
1–6) dedicated to Classical and
8
Oriental art, the second section
(rooms 7–17) housing the
7
European collection of paintings,
sculpture, furniture, silverware
5
and jewellery.
Armenian art
1
2
Key to Floorplan
Turkish Faïence Plate Egyptian, Classical and
The factories at Iznik Mesopotamian art
in Turkey produced Oriental Islamic art
some of the most
Far Eastern art
beautiful jugs, plates
and vases of the European art (14th–17th centuries)
Islamic world, French 18th-century decorative arts
including this
European art (18th–19th centuries)
17th-century deep
plate decorated with Lalique collection
stylized animal forms. Non-exhibition space
120 LISBON
masterpiece of psychological
penetration, and Pallas Athena
(c.1655–59), said to have been
modelled on Rembrandt’s son,
Titus, and previously thought to
have portrayed Alexander the
Great. Rubens is represented
by three paintings, the most
remarkable of which is the
Portrait of Hélène Fourment
(c.1630), the artist’s second wife.
The gallery beyond the Dutch
and Flemish paintings has
tapestries and textiles from Italy View of the Molo with the Ducal Palace (c.1790) by Francesco Guardi
and Flanders, Italian ceramics,
rare 15th-century medallions his gardens, it was purchased by of the artist’s career, and Boy
and sculpture. Catherine the Great and became Blowing Bubbles, painted about
one of the main exhibits in the 1867. Renoir’s Portrait of
Hermitage in Russia during the Madame Claude Monet was
French 18th-Century 19th and early 20th centuries. painted in about 1872 when the
Decorative Arts One whole room is devoted artist was staying with Monet at
Some remarkably elaborate to views of Venice by the his country home in Argenteuil,
Louis XV and Louis XVI pieces, 18th-century Venetian painter in the outskirts of Paris.
many commissioned by royalty, Francesco Guardi, and a small
feature in the collection of collection of British art includes
French 18th-century furniture. works by leading 18th-century Lalique Collection
The exhibits, many of them portraitists, such as Gainsbor- The tour of the museum ends
embellished with lacquer ough’s Portrait of Mrs Lowndes- with an entire room filled with
panels, ebony and bronze, are Stone (c.1775) and Romney’s the flamboyant creations of
grouped together according to Portrait of Mrs Constable (1787). French Art Nouveau jeweller,
historical style with Beauvais There are also two stormy René Lalique (1860–1945).
and chinoiserie Aubusson seascapes by J M W Turner (1775– Gulbenkian was a close friend of
tapestries decorating the walls. 1851). French 19th-century Lalique’s and he acquired many
The French silverware from landscape painting is well of the pieces of jewellery,
the same period, much of which represented here, reflecting glassware and ivory on display
once adorned Russian palaces’ Gulbenkian’s preference for here directly from the artist. Inlaid
dining tables, includes lavishly naturalism, with works by the with semi-precious stones and
decorated soup tureens, salt- Barbizon school, the Realists and covered with gold leaf or
cellars and platters. the Impressionists. The best- enamel, the brooches, necklaces,
known paintings in the section, vases and combs are decorated
however, are probably Manet’s with the dragonfly, peacock or
Boy with Cherries, painted in sensual female nude motifs
about 1858 at the beginning characteristic of Art Nouveau.
Calouste Gulbenkian
Born in Scutari (Turkey) in 1869,
Gulbenkian started his art
collection at the age of 14 when
Louis XV chest of drawers inlaid with he bought some ancient coins in
ebony and bronze a bazaar. In 1928 he was granted a
5 per cent stake in four major oil
companies, including BP and
European Art (18th– Shell, in thanks for his part in the
19th Centuries) transfer of the assets of the Turkish
Petroleum Company to those four
The art of the 18th century is
companies. He thereby earned himself
dominated by French painters, the nickname of “Mr Five Percent”. With the
including Watteau (1684–1721), wealth he accumulated, Gulbenkian was able to
Fragonard (1732–1806) and indulge his passion for fine works of art. During World War II, he went
Boucher (1703–70). The most to live in neutral Portugal and, on his death in 1955, bequeathed
celebrated piece of sculpture is a his estate to establish a foundation in his name based in Portugal.
statue of Diana by Jean-Antoine The Foundation supports many cultural activities and has its own
Houdon. Commissioned in 1780 orchestra, art library, concert halls and a modern art collection.
by the Duke of Saxe-Gotha for
122 LISBON
by Portuguese artists from the turn cupolas was retained. Call the
of the 20th century to the present tourist office or the number
day. One of the most famous listed above for information on
paintings is the striking portrait of this and other bullfight venues.
poet Fernando Pessoa in the Café
Irmãos Unidos (1964) by José de
Almada Negreiros (1893– 1970),
a main exponent of Portuguese
Modernism. Also of interest are
paintings by Eduardo Viana (1881–
1967), Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso
(1887–1918), as well as contem-
A light-filled gallery at the Museu Calouste porary artists such as Paula Rego,
Gulbenkian – Coleção Moderna Rui Sanches, Graça Morais and
Teresa Magalhães.
The Coleção Moderna’s building
8 Museu Calouste is light and spacious, with pleasant
Gulbenkian – gardens and a busy cafeteria.
Coleção Moderna
Rua Dr Nicolau de Bettencourt.
Map 5 B3. Tel 217 823 000. q São
9 Campo Pequeno
Renovated 19th-century steam pump in
Sebastião. @ 716, 726, 742, 746, 756. Map 5 C1. q Campo Pequeno.
@ 727, 736. Bullring: Tel 217 998 450.
the Museu da Água
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. Closed
1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Open Easter–Oct: for bullfights.
Sun after 2pm). ∑ gulbenkian.pt/ &7 0 Museu da Água
cam/colecao-moderna Rua do Alviela 12. Tel 218 100 215.
This square is dominated by the @ 735, 794. Open 10am–5:30pm
The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian red-brick Neo-Moorish bullring Tue–Sat. Closed public hols. &
– Coleção Moderna lies across built in the late 19th century. A
the gardens from the Calouste full renovation added a roof, a Dedicated to the history of
Gulbenkian Coleção do Fundador shopping and leisure centre and Lisbon’s water supply, this
and is part of the same cultural an underground car park. Much small but informative museum
foundation (see p121). of the bullring’s distinctive was imaginatively created
The permanent collection architecture, such as keyhole- around the city’s first steam
features paintings and sculpture shaped windows and double pumping station. It commemo-
rates Manuel da Maia, the
18th-century engineer who
masterminded the Águas
Livres aqueduct (see p126).
The excellent layout of the
museum earned it the Council
of Europe Museum Prize in 1990.
Pride of place goes to four
lovingly preserved steam
engines, one of which still func-
tions (by electricity) and can
be switched on for visitors. The
development of technology
relating to the city’s water supply
is documented with photo-
graphs. Particularly interesting
are the sections on the Águas
Livres aqueduct and the
Alfama’s 17th-century Chafariz
d’El Rei, one of Lisbon’s first
fountains. Locals used to queue
at one of six founts, depending
on their social status.
q Museu Nacional
do Azulejo
Neo-Moorish façade of the bullring in Campo Pequeno See pp124–5.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
FURTHER AFIELD 123
r Museu de Lisboa
Campo Grande 245. Tel 217 513
200. q Campo Grande. @ 701, 736,
750. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed public hols. & (free until
1pm Sun). 7
Kitchen Tiles
The walls of the
restaurant are lined
with 19th-century
tiles showing
hanging game,
including wild boar
and pheasant.
Level 1
Gallery Guide
The rooms around the central
cloister are arranged chrono
logically with the oldest tiles on the . Nossa Senhora
ground floor. Access to the Madre da Vida
de Deus is via level 1 of the museum. This detail showing
The front entrance of the church is St John is part of a fine
used only during religious services. 16th-century majolica
altarpiece. The central
panel of the huge work
depicts The Adoration
Key to Floorplan of the Shepherds.
Moorish tiles
16th-century tiles
17th-century tiles
18th-century tiles
19th-century tiles
20th-century tiles
Tiles from the
17th century with
Temporary exhibition space oriental influences
Non-exhibition space are displayed here.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
FURTHER AFIELD 125
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Moorish Tiles Practical Information
Decorated Rua da Madre de Deus 4. Tel 218
with a stylized 100 340. ∑ museudoazulejo.pt
animal motif, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (last
this 15th-century adm: 30 mins before closing).
tile is typical Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
of Moorish 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of
azulejo patterns. month). - 0
Transport
@ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794.
Level 3
Panorama of Lisbon
A striking 18th-century panel
on the top floor depicts Lisbon
before the 1755 earthquake (see
pp66–7). This detail shows the
royal palace on Terreiro do Paço.
Entrance
The Renaissance
cloister is the work
of Diogo de Torralva
(1500–66).
. Madre de Deus
Completed in the mid-16th century,
it was not until two centuries later,
under João V, that the church of
Madre de Deus acquired its ornate
decoration. The sumptuous
Rococo altarpiece was added
after the earthquake of 1755.
. Manueline Cloister
An important surviving feature of the original
convent is the graceful Manueline cloister.
Fine geometrical patterned tiles were added
to the cloister walls in the 19th century.
126 LISBON
t Jardim Zoológico
Praça Marechal Humberto Delgado.
Tel 217 232 900. q Jardim Zoológico.
@ 716, 754, 768 & other routes. £
Sete-Rios. Open10am–6pm daily (21
Mar–20 Sep: to 8pm). & ∑ zoo.pt
Imposing arches of the Aqueduto das Águas Livres spanning the Alcântara valley
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
FURTHER AFIELD 127
u Palácio Fronteira
Largo São Domingos de Benfica 1.
Tel 217 782 023. q Jardim Zoológico.
@ 770. £ Benfica. Open Mon–Sat.
8 compulsory. Jun–Sep: 10:30, 11 &
11:30am & noon Mon–Sat; Oct–May:
11am & noon Mon–Sat. Closed Sun,
public hols. &
SHOPPING IN LISBON
With recognised high street names, large and exclusive designer shops are found around
modern shopping centres, charming markets the Avenida da Liberdade, which is based on
and unique gift shops, Lisbon has an eclectic Paris’s Champs-Elysees in design and character.
range of shopping opportunities. The cobbled If you are looking for something typically
and idyllic streets of the Baixa and the chic Portuguese, such as hand-woven tapestries,
Chiado district are the city’s traditional ceramics or clothes, there are countless gift
shopping areas, and the wine merchants shops and markets around the city where
here are the best in the country. The more you will unearth charming souvenirs.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres Feira dos Discoteca Regional Crafts
Alfarrabistas Amália
Amoreiras Rua Anchieta. Open Sat. Rua do Ouro 272, Arte Rústica
Avenida Engenheiro Baixa. Rua Augusta 193,
Duarte Pacheco, Amoreiras. Feira de Antiguidades, First Floor, Baixa.
Map 7 B4.
Map 5 A5. Tel 213 810 Velharias e Artesanato Map 7 B4.
Tel 213 420 939.
200. ∑ amoreiras.com Príncipe Real. Tel 213 461 004.
Map 4 F1. Open Last FNAC
Centro Colombo Sat of every month. Armazéns do Chaido, Vista Alegre Atlantis
Avenida Lusíada. Tel 217 Rua do Carmo 2, Loja 407. Largo do Chiado 20–23,
113 636. ∑ colombo.pt Mercearia dos Açores Map 7 B4 Chiado. Map 7 A4.
Rua da Madalena 115. Tel 213 461 401.
El Corte Inglés Tel 707 313 435.
Map 7 C4.
Avenida António Tel 218 880 070. Livraria Antiques
Augusto Aguiar 31. Bertrand
Map 5 B3. Tel 707 211 Manuel Tavares Rua Garrett 73, Livraria Olisipo
711. ∑ elcorteingles.pt Rua da Betesga 1. Map Chiado. Largo Trindade Coelho
7 B3. Tel 213 424 209. Map 7 A4. 7–8, Bairro Alto.
Vasco da Gama
Tel 213 476 122. Map 7 A3.
Avenida Dom João ll, Wines and Spirits Tel 213 462 771.
Parque das Nações.
Tel 218 930 600. Napoleão Clothes Solar
∑ centrovasco Rua dos Fanqueiros 70. Rosa & Teixeira Rua Dom Pedro V 70,
dagama.pt Map 7 C4. Avenida da Liberdade Bairro Alto.
Tel 218 872 042. 204, Avenida. Map 4 F2.
Food and Markets Map 5 C5. Tel 213 465 522.
Books and Music Tel 213 110 350.
Celeiro Dieta
Avenida António Augusto Aillaud & Lellos Zara
de Aguiar 130, Saldanha. Rua do Carmo 82, Chiado. Rua Garrett 1, Chiado.
Map 5 B3. Map 7 B4. Map 7 B4.
Tel 213 558 164. Tel 213 424 450. Tel 213 243 710.
130 LISBON
ENTERTAINMENT IN LISBON
For a smallish European capital, Lisbon has arts patron, has been joined by other
a great, varied cultural calendar. Musical private funds as well as state institutions.
events range from classical and opera perfor Football is a consuming passion of the
mances to intimate fado evenings, and large Portuguese, and Lisbon’s Sporting and
rock concerts. Dance, both classical and Benfica teams play regularly at home.
modern, is well represented in Lisbon. The Lisbon outparties many larger capitals,
Gulbenkian Foundation, long the only major with a nightlife known for its liveliness.
ABEP kiosk selling tickets on Classical Music, Opera World Music, Jazz, Pop
Praça dos Restauradores and Dance and Rock
Lisbon’s top cultural centres are Lisbon’s musical soul may
the modern Centro Cultural be fado (see pp68–9), but
Listings Magazines de Belém (see p110) and the the city is no stranger to
Previews of forthcoming Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian other forms of musical
cultural events plus listings (see pp118–21). They host expression. African music,
and reviews of the city’s latest national and international events particularly that of former
bars and clubs appear each such as ballet and concerts. Ballet Portuguese colony Cape
week in major newspapers. is also the focus of the Teatro Verde, plays a big part in
English-language publications Camões. The Teatro Nacional de Lisbon’s music scene. Venues
on offer include the monthly São Carlos is Portugal’s national such as Bartô and B.Leza have
Follow Me Lisboa, which can opera, with a varied season frequent live performances.
be obtained free from tourist that mixes its own productions The Hot Clube has been
offices. The monthly Agenda with guest performances. The Lisbon’s foremost jazz venue
Cultural is in Portuguese. Coliseu dos Recreios has for as long as anyone can
no institution attached and remember, and has the right
so offers a variety of events. intimate atmosphere.
Cinema and Theatre
Movie-goers are very well
served in Lisbon. Films are
shown in their original language
with Portuguese subtitles, and
tickets are inexpensive. On
Mondays most cinemas offer
reductions. The city’s older
cinemas have now largely given
way to modern multiplexes,
usually located in shopping
centres such as Amoreiras,
Centro Colombo or El Corte
Inglés. While these screen
mainstream Hollywood fare, The modern Centro Cultural de Belém in Lisbon
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I S B O N 131
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Classical Music, Bartô Lux
Opera and Dance Costa do Castelo 1. Avenida Infante Dom
ABEP Map 7 C3. Henrique. Map 8 D5.
Praça dos Restauradores. Centro Cultural Tel 218 855 550. Tel 218 820 890.
Map 7 A2. de Belém
Tel 213 470 768. Praça do Império. Hot Clube Main
Map 1 B5. Praça da Alegria 48. Avenida 24 de Julho 68.
FNAC Tel 213 612 400. Map 4 F1. Map 4 E3.
Armazéns do Chiado, Rua Tel 213 460 305. Tel 961 553 745.
do Carmo 2, Loja 407. Coliseu dos
Map 7 B4. Tel 707 313 435. Recreios MEO Arena Silk Club
Rua das Portas de Santo Parque das Nações. Rua da Misericórdia 14,
Cinema and Antão 96. Tel 218 918 409. 6th Floor.
Theatre Map 7 A2.
Parque da Bela Vista
Map 7 A4.
Tel 213 240 580. Tel 913 009 193.
Chapitô Avenida Arlindo Vicente.
Costa do Castelo 7. Fundação Calouste Tel 808 203 232. Station
Map 7 C3. Gulbenkian Cais do Gás, Armazém A,
Avenida de Berna 45.
Hard Rock Café
Tel 218 855 550. Porta 7, 1200-109 Lisbon
Map 5 B2. Av. da Liberdade 2.
(Cais do Sodré).
Cinemateca Tel 217 823 000. Map 4 F1.
Map 4 F4.
Portuguesa Tel 213 245 280.
Teatro Camões Tel 210 116 546.
Rua Barata Salgueiro 39.
Map 5 C5. Parque das Nações, Nightclubs
Passeio de Neptuno. Sports
Tel 213 596 200.
Tel 218 923 470. Bar Lounge
Autódromo do Estoril
São Jorge Cinema Rua da Moeda 1.
Teatro Nacional de Tel 214 609 500.
Avenida da Map 4 F3.
São Carlos Tel 213 973 730. Estádio José Alvalade
Liberdade 175.
Rua Serpa Pinto 9.
Map 5 C5. Rua Pr Fernando da
Map 7 A4. Incógnito
Tel 213 103 400. Fonseca 1600.
Tel 213 253 000. Rua dos Poiais de
Tel 707 204 444.
Teatro Nacional Dona São Bento 37,
Maria II World Music, 1200-349 Lisbon. Estádio da Luz
Praça Dom Pedro IV. Jazz, Pop Map 4 E3. Avenida Gen Norton
Map 7 B3. and Rock Tel 213 908 755. Matos 1500.
Tel 213 250 800. Tel 707 200 100.
B.Leza K Urban Beach
Teatro da Trindade Rua Cintura do Porto de Cais da Viscondessa, Estádio Nacional-
Largo da Trindade 7A. Lisboa 16, Armazem B, Rua da Cintura, Santos. Jamor
Map 7 A3. Cais da Ribeira Nova. Map 4 E4. Cruz Quebrada.
Tel 213 423 200. Tel 210 106 837. Tel 213 932 930. Tel 214 146 030.
132 LISBON
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Conselheiro Martins de
Carvalho, Rua 1 C2
Dom Pedro IV, Praça 7 B3 F General Massano
Dom Pedro V, Rua 4 F2 de Amorim, Rua 1 C3
Fábrica dos Pentes,
Convento de Jesus, Dom Vasco, Rua de 2 D3 General Roçadas, Avenida 6 F5
Travessa da 5 B5
Travessa do 4 F2 Dom Vasco, Travessa de 2 D3 Gervásio Lobato, Rua 3 B2
Fala Só, Travessa do 7 A2
Cordeiro de Sousa, Rua 5 C1 Domingos Sequeira, Rua 4 D2 Giestal, Rua do 2 E4
Fanqueiros, Rua dos 7 C4
Cordoeiros, Rua dos 4 F3 Domingos Tendeiro, Rua 1 C3 Giestal, Travessa do 2 E3
Farinhas, Rua das 7 C3
Coronel Eduardo Dona Estefânia, Rua de 6 D3 Gil Eanes, Rua 1 A3
Fé, Rua da 7 A1
Galhardo, Avenida 6 F4 Gil Vicente, Rua 2 F3
Dona Filipe de Vilhena, Feira da Ladra 8 E2
Castelo de São Jorge 8 D3 Gilberto Rola, Rua 3 B4
Rua 6 D2 Feliciano de Sousa, Rua 3 A3
Coronel Ferreira Giovanni Antinori, Rua 2 E2
Douradores, Rua dos 7 C4 Fernandes Tomás, Rua 4 F3
do Amaral, Rua 6 E2 Glória, Calçada da 7 A3
Doutor Almeida Amaral, Fernando Pedroso, Rua 6 D2
Coronel Pereira da Silva, Glória, Rua da 4 F1
Rua 6 D5 Fernão Gomes, Rua 1 A3
Rua 2 D3 7 A2
Doutor Álvaro de Castro, Fernão Lopes, Rua 5 C3
Corpo Santo, Rua do 7 A5 Glória, Travessa da 7 A2
Rua 5 A2 Fernão Mendes Pinto,
Correeiros, Rua dos 7 B4 Goa, Praça de 1 A3
Correia Teles, Rua 3 C1 Doutor Eduardo Neves, Rua 5 C1 Rua 1 A5
Gomes Freire, Rua 6 D4
Correio Velho, Doutor Júlio Dantas, Rua 5 A3 Ferragial, Rua 7 A5
Gonçalo Nunes, Rua 1 B2
Calçada do 7 C4 Doutor Mário Moutinho, Ferreira Borges, Rua 3 C1
Gonçalo Sintra, Rua 1 B2
Corvos, Rua dos 8 E3 Avenida 1 B1 Ferreira Lapa, Rua 6 D4
Gonçalo Velho Cabral,
Costa, Rua da 3 B3 Doutor Nicolau Ferreiro, Travessa do 3 C3
Rua 1 B3
Costa, Travessa da 3 B3 Ferreiros, Rua dos 4 E2
de Bettencourt, Rua 5 B3 Gonçalves Crespo, Rua 6 D4
Costa do Castelo 7 C3 Ferreiros, Travessa dos 1 C4
Doutor Oliveira Ramos, Gonçalves Zarco, Rua 1 C3
Costa Goodolfim, Rua 6 D2 Fialho de Almeida, Rua 5 A3
Rua 6 F3 Gorgel do Amaral, Rua 5 A5
Costa Pimenta, Rua 3 B1 Fiéis de Deus,
Doutor Silva Teles, Rua 5 B2 Graça, Calçada da 8 D2
Cova da Moura, Rua da 3 B3 Travessa dos 4 F2
Doutor Teófilo Braga, Graça, Largo da 8 D2
Cozinha Económica, Figueira, Praça da 7 B3
Rua 4 D2 Graça, Rua da 8 D1
Rua da 3 A4 Filinto Elísio, Rua 2 F3
Duarte Pacheco Pereira, Gravato, Rua do 1 A1
Crucifixo, Rua do 7 B4 Filipe da Mata, Rua 5 A1
Rua 1 A4 Gregório Lopes, Rua 1 B2
Cruz, Estrada da Filipe Folque, Rua 5 C3
Duque, Rua do 7 A3 Guarda, Travessa da 2 F4
(ao Caramão) 1 B2 Flores, Rua das 7 A4
Duque de Ávila, Avenida 5 C3 Guarda-Jóias, Rua do 2 D2
Cruz, Rua da Florindas, Travessa das 2 D3
Duque de Loulé, Avenida 5 C4 Guarda-Jóias, Travessa do 2 D3
(a Alcântara) 3 A3 Fonseca Benevides, Rua 2 E2
Duque de Palmela, Rua 5 C5 Guarda-Mor, Rua do 4 D3
Cruz, Rua da (a Caselas) 1 A1 Fontainhas, Rua das 3 A4
Guerra Junqueiro, Avenida 6 E2
Cruz, Travessa da Duque de Saldanha, Praça do 5 C3 Fonte do Louro,
Guilherme Braga, Rua 8 E3
(do Torel) 7 B1 Duques de Bragança, Azinhaga da 6 F1
Guilherme Coussul,
Cruz da Carreira, Rua da 6 D5 Rua dos 7 A5 Fontes Pereira de Melo,
Travessa de 7 A4
Cruz do Desterro, Avenida 5 C4
Guilherme dos Anjos, Rua 3 B1
Forno, Rua do 7 B2
Travessa
Cruz dos Poiais, Rua da
7 B1
4 E2
E Forno do Tijolo, Rua do 6 E5
Guiné, Rua da 6 E4
Gustavo de Matos
Cruz Vermelha, Rua da 5 B1 Eça de Queirós, Rua 5 C4 Forte, Calçada do 8 F1
Sequeira, Rua 4 E1
Cruzeiro, Rua do 2 E2 Eduardo Bairrada, Rua 2 D2 Forte do Alto do Duque,
Cura, Rua do 4 D3 Eduardo Coelho, Rua 4 F2 Estrada do 1 A2
Eduardo da Costa, Rua 6 F4 Fradesso da Silveira, Rua 3 A4 H
Francesinhas, Rua das 4 E3
D Egas Moniz, Rua 6 F2
Francisco de Holanda,
Heliodoro Salgado, Rua 6 F5
Elevador de Santa Justa 7 B3 Hellen Keller, Avenida 1 C2
Damão, Praça de 1 A4 Rua 5 B1
Elias Garcia, Avenida 5 C2 Henrique Alves, Rua 5 A3
Damasceno Monteiro, 6 E5 Francisco Metrass, Rua 3 C1
Embaixador Teixeira de Henrique Cardoso, Travessa 6 D1
Rua 8 D1 Francisco Pedro Curado,
Sampaio, Rua 3 C3 Heróis de Quionga, Rua 6 E3
David Melgueiro, Rua 6 F4
Embaixador, Rua do 2 D4 Horta, Travessa da 4 F2
Rua 1 A4 Francisco Ribeiro, Rua 6 E5
Emenda, Rua da 4 F3 Horta e Silva, Rua 1 B1
David de Sousa, Rua 6 D1 Francisco Sá Carneiro
Engenheiro Duarte Praça, (ao Areeiro) 6 E1 Horta Navia, Travessa da 3 B3
Defensores de Chaves,
Pacheco, Avenida 5 A5 Francisco Sanches, Rua 6 E3 Horta Seca, Rua da 7 A4
Avenida dos 5 C2
Engenheiro Miguel Pais, Francisco Tomás
Descobertas,
Avenida das 1 A2
Calçada 4 E1 da Costa, Rua 5 B1 I
Engenheiro Santos Frei Amador Arrais, Rua 6 D1
Desterro, Calçada do 7 C1
Simões, Rua 6 F2 Frei Manuel do Cenáculo, Igreja do Carmo 7 B3
Desterro, Rua do 7 B1
Engenheiro Vieira Rua 6 F5 Igreja da Memória 1 C3
Diário de Notícias, Rua 7 A4
da Silva, Rua 5 C3 Frei Miguel Contreiras, Igreja de Santo António à Sé 7 C4
Dinis Dias, Rua 1 A4
Entrecampos, Rua de 5 C1 Avenida 6 E1 Igreja de São Roque 7 A3
Dio, Praça de 1 A4
Entremuros do Mirante, Freiras, Travessa das Igreja de São Vicente
Diogo Cão, Rua 2 E3
Rua de 8 F2 (a Arroios) 6 E3 de Fora 8 E3
Diogo Gomes, Rua 1 A4
Ermida de São Jerónimo 1 A3 Freiras, Travessa das Ilha do Faial, Praça da 6 D3
Diogo de Silves, Rua 1 B2
(a Santa Clara) 8 F2 Ilha da Madeira, Avenida da 1 B2
Diogo de Teive, Rua 1 B2 Escola Araújo,
Freitas Gazul, Rua 3 B1 Ilha do Príncipe, Rua da 6 E4
Dom Afonso Henriques, Travessa da 6 D4
Alameda 6 E2 Fresca, Rua 4 E3 Ilha de São Tomé,
Escola do Exército,
Dom Carlos I, Avenida 4 E3 Funil, Travessa do 8 D3 Rua da 6 E4
Rua da 6 D5
Dom Constantino de Ilha Terceira, Rua 6 D3
Escola de Medicina
Império, Praça do 1 C4
Bragança, Rua 1 A3 Veterinária, Rua da 6 D4 G Imprensa, Rua da
Dom Cristóvão da Gama, Escola Politécnica,
Rua, 1 A4 Gaivotas, Rua das 4 E3 (à Estrela) 4 E2
Rua da 4 E1 Imprensa Nacional,
Dom Duarte, Rua 7 B3 Galé, Travessa da 3 A5
Escolas Gerais, Rua das 8 E3 Rua da 4 E1
Dom Francisco Galvão, Calçada do 1 C3
Espanha, Praça de 5 A2 Índia, Avenida da 1 A5
de Almeida, Rua 1 A4 Garcia de Orta, Rua 4 D3
Espera, Travessa da 7 A4 Indústria, Rua da 2 F3
Dom Francisco Manuel Garrett, Rua 7 A4
Esperança, Rua da 4 E3 Garrido, Rua do 6 F2 3 A4
de Melo, Rua 5 A4
Dom João V, Rua 4 D1 Esperança do Cardal, Gáveas, Rua das 7 A4 Infantaria Dezasseis, Rua de 3 C1
Dom João de Castro, Rua 7 A1 General Farinha Beirão, Infante Dom Henrique,
Rua 2 E3 Espírito Santo, Beco do 8 E4 Rua 6 D4 Avenida 8 D5
Dom Lourenço Estádio Municipal General Garcia Rosado, Infante Dom Pedro,
de Almeida, Rua 1 B4 do Restelo 1 B3 Rua 6 D4 Rua 5 C1
Dom Luís I, Rua 4 E3 Estrela, Calçada da 4 E2 General João de Almeida, Infante Santo, Avenida 3 C3
Dom Luís de Noronha, Estrela, Praça da 4 D2 Rua 1 C3 Inglesinhos, Travessa
Rua 5 A2 Estrela, Rua da 4 D2 General Leman, Rua 5 A1 dos 4 F2
136 Lisbon street finder
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Central
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Introducing Central
Portugal 148–153
The Lisbon Coast 154–175
Estremadura and Ribatejo 176–199
The Beiras 200–227
148 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Conímbriga
Alcobaça is principally known
for its abbey, founded in the
Pombal
12th century by Portugal’s first
king, Afonso Henriques. The Leiria
graceful, contemplative air of São Pedro
de Muel
this great Cistercian house (see
pp184–5) is exemplified by its Batalha
Nazaré
huge vaulted dormitory. Fátima
Alcobaça Torres
São Martinho Novas
Sintra, just west of Lisbon, is Caldas da do Porto
a cool wooded retreat from the Rainha
ESTREMADURA
heat of the capital. This is where AND THE RIBATEJO
Peniche
the Portuguese monarchs Óbidos (see pp176–199)
chose to spend their summers. Alpiarça
Lourinhã
The Palácio Nacional is full of Santarém
remarkable decorative effects,
Almeirim
such as this painted “magpie”
ceiling (see pp164–5). Torres
Alenquer
Vedras
Ericeira Mafra
Vila Franca
Alverca de Xira Coruche
Colares
Sintra
Lisbon Alcochete
Sernancelhe
Arouca Castro
Daire
Pinhel
Trancoso Almeida
Celorico da
Viseu Beira
Caramulo
Vilar Buçaco’s walled forest is an
Águeda Formoso
Tondela
Guarda
arboretum and a religious
Gouveia retreat. A Via Sacra winds
among mossy trunks to
Manteigas
Sabugueiro stunning views from the
Sabugal
hilltop Calvary (see pp216–17).
Avô Covilhã
Coimbra
Penamacor
Arganil
THE BEIRAS Fundão
(see pp200–227)
Monsanto
Penela Idanha-a
-Velha
Castelo
Branco
The Cavaleiro
The bullfighter or cavaleiro wears
traditional 18th-century costume,
including the satin coat of a
grandee, and rides an elaborately
adorned horse. He has to plant
a number of darts (farpas) in
the bull’s shoulders, and his
performance is judged on
style and courage.
Palácio de Mafra (see p158), an 18th-century Baroque palace and monastery on the Lisbon coast
A stretch of stunning coastline in Cascais, near Lisbon
156 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Alfarim
Nossa Senhora
do Cabo
Key CABO ESPICHEL
Motorway
Secondary road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from
Lisbon to Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and
Setúbal. Main roads are generally well-
signposted and surfaced, though traffic
congestion can be a problem, partic-
ularly at weekends and holidays. Watch
out for potholes on smaller roads. Fast,
frequent trains run from Lisbon: from Cais
do Sodré station to Estoril and Cascais,
from Roma-Areeiro and Entrecampos
stations to Queluz and Sintra and from
Rossio station to Queluz and Sintra. Cross-
ing the April 25 bridge, trains south to
Setúbal leave from Roma-Areeiro station,
Convento da Arrábida in the hills of the and high-speed Alfa Pendular services
Alverca do
Ribatejo Serra da Arrábida south to Évora and the Algarve depart
from Oriente station. There are good
ia
Póvoa de
or
Santa Iria
Ri
Reser va
N a tura l do
Sacavém Es t u á r io do Tejo
Canha Rib
eira
ALCOCHETE de Canh
a
Rio
Samouco
Montijo
Atalaia
Pegões Velhos
Rio Frio
Barreiro Évora
Moita
Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
Santo António
da Charneca
SETÚBAL
Coina
Águas Marateca
PALMELA de Moura
Marco do Grilo
Vila Fresca de
Azeitão A
ID
Vila Nogueira R ÁB SETÚBAL
de Azeitão AR Re s e r va
DA Tróia N a t ura l d o Palma ho
tin
RA Figueirinha
Es t uá r i o d o S a d o
Pinheiros M
ar
R
Santana Ri Estação
SE
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This 490-m (1,600-ft) high peak affords stunning
views towards the coast. A 17th-century chapel
decorated with azulejo panels is perched high
on the grey rocks.
5 Cabo da Roca
A lighthouse at the top
of an impressive cliff, Key
140 m (459 ft) high, Tour route
marks the most
westerly point of the Other roads
European mainland. Viewpoint
P Quinta da Regaleira
Rua Barbosa du Bocage. Tel 219 106
650. @ 405. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–
8pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–6pm; (last
adm: 1 hour before closing). Closed
24 & 25 Dec. 8 call to book. & 0
- ∑ regaleira.pt
A
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São Pedro
KEY
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled
garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastião,
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons)
4 The Torre dos Brasões has
dovecotes below the cornice
decorated with armillary spheres
and nautical rope.
5 The Sala dos Árabes is
decorated with fine azulejos.
6 The kitchens, beneath the
huge conical chimneys, have
spits and utensils once used for
preparing royal banquets.
7 Sala dos Archeiros, the Chapel
entrance hall Symmetrical Moorish
8 Manuel I added the ajimene patterns decorate the
windows, a distinctive Moorish original 15th-century
design with a slender column chestnut and oak ceiling
dividing two arches. and the mosaic floor of
the private chapel.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2
SINTRA 165
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219 237 300.
∑ parquesdesintra.pt
Open 9:30am–6pm daily
(29 Mar–24 Oct: to 7pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8&
Chapel
Entrance
1147 Christian reconquest; 1385 João I orders 1880s Maria Pia (grand-
Afonso Henriques takes complete rebuilding mother of Manuel II)
over palace of central buildings is last royal resident
and kitchens
8th century Start of Moorish 1910 Palace becomes a
occupation of the region national monument
Siren, Sala das Sereias (c.1660)
166 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
. Hall
The spacious hall is sumptuously
furnished with German stained-glass
windows, precious Oriental porcelain
and four life-size turbaned torch-
bearers holding giant candelabra.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2
SINTRA 167
. Chapel Altarpiece
The impressive 16th-
century alabaster and
marble retable was
sculpted by Nicolau
Chanterène. Each niche
portrays a scene of
the life of Christ,
from the manger to
the Ascension.
9 Palácio de Queluz
In 1747, Pedro, younger son of João V, commissioned
Mateus Vicente to transform his 17th-century hunting
lodge into a Rococo summer palace. The central section,
which includes a music room and chapel, was built
and the palace was further extended after Pedro’s
marriage to the future Maria I, in 1760. French architect
Jean-Baptiste Robillion then added the sumptuous
Corridor of the Tiles
Robillion Pavilion and gardens, cleared space for the Painted azulejo panels (1784)
Throne Room and redesigned the Music Room. During representing the continents and the
Maria’s reign, the royal family kept a menagerie and seasons, as well as hunting scenes,
went boating on the azulejo-lined canal. line the walls of this bright corridor.
KEY
To canal
1 The Robillion Pavilion displays
the flamboyance of the French
architect’s Rococo style.
2 Shell Waterfall
3 The Lion Staircase is an
impressive and graceful link from
the lower gardens to the palace.
4 Neptune’s Fountain
Don Quixote Chamber
5 The royal family’s living rooms The royal bedroom,
and bedrooms opened out onto the where Pedro IV (see p58)
Malta Gardens. was born and died, has
6 Chapel a domed ceiling and
magnificent floor
7 Malta Gardens
decoration in exotic
8 The Hanging Gardens, woods, giving the
designed by Robillion, were built square room a circular
over arches, raising the ground in appearance. Painted
front of the palace above the scenes by Manuel de
surrounding gardens. Costa (1784) tell the
story of Don Quixote.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2
THE LISBON COAST 171
Music Room
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Operas and
concerts were
Practical Information
performed here by
Road Map B5. Largo do
Maria I’s orchestra,
Palácio. Tel 214 343 860.
“the best in Europe”
Open 9am–5:30pm daily
according to
(late Mar–Oct: to 7pm).
English traveller
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
William Beckford.
&7-0
A portrait of the
queen hangs above Transport
the forte piano. £ Queluz–Belas or Queluz–
Massama. @ from Lisbon
(Colégio Militar).
. Throne Room
The elegant state room
(1770) was the scene of
splendid balls and
banquets. The gilded
statues of Atlas
are by Silvestre
Faria Lobo.
Entrance
Maria I (1734–1816)
Maria, the eldest daughter of José I,
lived at the palace in Queluz after
her marriage to her uncle, Pedro,
in 1760. Serious and devout, she
conscientiously filled her role as
queen, but suffered increasingly
from bouts of melancholia. When
her son José died from smallpox
in 1788, she went hopelessly mad.
Visitors to Queluz were dismayed . Palace Gardens
by her agonizing shrieks as she The formal gardens, adorned with statues,
suffered visions and hallucinations. After fountains and topiary, were often used
the French invasion of 1807, her younger son João for entertaining. Concerts performed in
(declared regent in 1792) took his mad mother to Brazil. the Music Room would spill out into the
Malta Gardens.
172 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
e Sesimbra
Road map C5. * 42,000. @
n Rua da Fortaleza de Santiago (212
288 540). ( 2nd & 4th Sat of month.
t Serra da Arrábida
Road map C5. @ Setúbal.
n Parque Natural da Arrábida, Praça
da República, Setúbal (265 541 140).
E Museu de Arqueologia
e Etnografia
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239
365. Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols.
The archaeological museum
displays a wealth of finds from
digs around Setúbal, including
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins
and amphorae made to carry
wine and garum, a sauce made
from fish marinated in salt and
herbs. The ethnography display
shows local arts, crafts and
Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal industries, including the
processing of salt and cork
y Setúbal here. Rectangular tanks, carved over the centuries.
from stone, can be seen under
Road map C5. * 119,000. £ @
the glass floor of the Regional + Castelo de São Filipe
g n Casa da Baía, Avenida Luísa
Todi 468 (265 545 010 or 915 174 442). Tourist Office at No. 10 Travessa Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 545 010.
Frei Gaspar. Open 10am–midnight Tue–Sun.
Although this is an important The star-shaped fort was built
industrial town, and the third- R Igreja de Jesus in 1595 by Philip II of Spain
largest port in Portugal (after Largo de Jesus. Tel 913 873 015. during the period of Spanish
Lisbon and Porto), Setúbal can Open 9:30am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue– rule (see pp54–5) to keep a wary
be used to explore the area. To Sat. 7 Museum: Tel 913 873 015. eye on pirates, English invaders
the south of the central gardens Open Tue–Sun. Closed public and the local population.
and fountains are the fishing har- hols. & A massive gateway and stone
bour, marina and ferry port, and To the north of the old town, tunnel lead to the sheltered
a lively covered market. North of this striking Gothic church is interior, which houses a bar,
the gardens is the old town, with one of Setúbal’s architectural lounge area as well as the
attractive pedestrian streets and treasures. Designed by the original chapel. A broad terrace
squares full of shops and cafés. architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, offers marvellous views over
The 16th-century cathedral, the city and the
dedicated to Santa Maria da Sado estuary.
Graça, has glorious tiled panels
dating from the 18th century, Environs
and gilded altar decoration. Setúbal is an
Street names commemorate excellent starting
two famous Setúbal residents: point for a tour by
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage car of the unspoilt
(1765–1805), whose satirical Reserva Natural do
poetry landed him in prison, Estuário do Sado, a
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), vast stretch of mud
a celebrated opera singer. In flats, shallow lagoons
Roman times, fish-salting was Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the Reserva and salt marshes
the most important industry Natural do Estuário do Sado with patches of pine
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2
THE LISBON COAST 175
ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO
Between the Tagus and the coast lies Estremadura, an area
of rolling hills that tumble down to rugged cliffs and sandy
beaches. In contrast, the Ribatejo is a vast alluvial plain
stretching along the banks of the Tagus. Portugal’s finest
medieval monasteries here bear witness to the illustrious,
if turbulent, past of these regions.
The pentagonal Forte de São João Baptista, located on the Berlenga Islands (see p180)
Capelas Imperfeitas, in the monastery of Santa Maria da Victória, Batalha
178 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
ia
plain of the Ribatejo is an area famous for bull- and Real
ir
horse-breeding. Here visitors can enjoy lively local festivals
Le
at Santarém, the Ribatejo’s lively capital. São Pedro
de
de Muel
N
Marinha Grande LEIRIA
EA
LEIRIA
hal
Sights at a Glance
OC
Pin
1 Berlenga Islands i Alpiarça
2 Peniche o Santarém BATALHA
3 Óbidos p Coruche
IC
e N de A
6 Nazaré d Torres Vedras rqu rras iros
São Martinho Pa s Se dee
LA
9 Leiria Serra do
Santa Teresa
0 Pombal BERLENGA Bouro
q Fátima ISLANDS Benedita
Lagoa de CALDAS DA Alcanede
w Tomar pp190–94 Óbidos
PENICHE RAINHA
e Barragem do Castelo de Bode Baleal
Cabo Carvoeiro ÓBIDOS
r Abrantes
t Castelo de Almourol Rio Maior
y Torres Novas Reguengo
Grande
u Golegã
Bombarral Vermelha São João da
Ribeira
Lourinhã Cadaval
Cercal Almoster
Main railway
da Cadeira LISBOA ALENQUER
Salvaterra
de Magos
Minor railway Sobral de
Monte Agraço
e jo
Benavente
Regional border
oT
VILA FRANCA
Ri
DE XIRA
Porto Alto
Lisboa
Coimbra
Avelar
ic
S
POMBAL do Ansião
r ra Figueiró dos
Se Vinhos
Santiago
de Litém Almoster
Vermoil
Alvaiázere Bougainvillea overhanging the walls of a café in the
Albergaria
well-preserved town of Óbidos
Rio N
Espite Freixianda
a
Cardosos ix
Caxarias Ba Cardigos
Ferreira
i ra do Zêzere
Ourém Be
Amêndoa
FÁTIMA
TOMAR Barragem da
Assentiz Santiago de Pracana
Montalegre Castelo
BARRAGEM DO Mação
Mira de Aire Branco
e CASTELO DE BODE Sardoal
Air
de
S e r ra Mouriscas
TORRES NOVAS Ortiga
ABRANTES
Constância Pego Portalegre
Alcanena Entroncamento
Vila Nova Rossio ao Sul do Tejo
da Barquinha CASTELO DE
GOLEGÃ ALMOUROL
Pernes Pinheiro Grande
jo
Te Chamusca Getting Around
o Bemposta
Ri
Although trains connect many
SANTARÉM of the major towns in the region,
Alcanhões
Vale de Cavalos stations are often located outside
Chouto the town. There are local bus services
ALPIARÇA
SANTARÉM and coach trips from Lisbon to such
destinations as Alcobaça and Tomar.
Almeirim
i a Driving is the most convenient option.
í r The A1 (IP1) and A8 (IC1) allow easy
Benfica
L e z north–south access. Avoid the NI (IC2)
Raposa as it is often congested. The A23 (IP6)
Muge runs eastwards from the A1 (IP1).
São José
da Lamarosa
Marinhais
Rio Sorraia
Couço
CORUCHE Ri
b ei
ra d
o Divor
São Torcato
Évora
Setúbal
0 kilometres 25 The Renaissance bridge, Ponte Velha, over the River Nabão in Tomar, with the
0 miles 15 Convento de Cristo in the distance
180 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
1 Berlenga Islands
Road map B4. g from Peniche.
n Peniche.
E Museu de Cerâmica
Rua Dr Ilídio Amado. Tel 262 840 280.
Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& (free first Sun of month).
Environs
Saltwater Lagoa de Óbidos,
15 km (9 miles) west, is a popular
Pillory in front of the Igreja de Santa Maria in Óbidos lagoon for sailing and fishing.
The colourful courtyard of a house in Óbidos
184 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C4. Santa Maria de
Alcobaça, Praça 25 de Abril,
Alcobaça. Tel 262 505 120. Open
9am–7pm (Oct–Mar: to 6pm) daily
(last adm: 30 mins before closing).
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
20 Aug, 25 Dec. 5 6:30pm Sat,
. Tombs of Pedro I and Inês de Castro 11:30am Sun. & (free first Sun of
Pedro’s statue, attended by angels, lies month). ∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt
opposite that of Inês. Popular legend says that
Transport
the king insisted that they face each other
@ from Lisbon, Coimbra, Leiria.
so that his first sight on Judgement Day
would be of her (see pp48 –9).
Central Nave
The vaulted roof and
soaring columns of the
central nave create an
impression of harmony
and austere simplicity.
Main entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp389–90 and pp403–4
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O 187
8 Batalha
The Dominican monastery of Santa Maria da Vitória at Batalha,
a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a masterpiece of Portuguese
Gothic architecture notable for its Manueline elements. The
pale limestone monastery celebrates João I’s 1385 victory over
Castile at Aljubarrota. Today, two unknown soldiers from World
War I lie in the chapterhouse. The monastery was begun in
1388 under master builder Afonso Domingues, succeeded
in 1406 by David Huguet. Over the next two centuries
successive kings left their mark on the monastery: João’s Chapterhouse
son, King Duarte, ordered a royal pantheon behind the apse, Guards keep watch by the Tomb of the
and Manueline additions include the Unfinished Chapels and Unknown Soldiers beneath Huguet’s
striking star-vaulted ceiling.
much of the decoration of the monastery buildings.
. Royal Cloister
Gothic arches by Afonso
Domingues and Huguet
around the cloister are
embellished by
Manueline tracery
(see pp28–9)
to achieve a
harmony of form
and decoration.
KEY
1 Refectory Main
entrance
2 The lavabo, where friars
washed their hands before and
after meals, contains a fountain
built around 1450.
3 The stained-glass window
behind the choir dates from 1514. Portal
4 Lofty nave by Afonso The portal was
Domingues decorated by
Huguet with
5 The chapel is topped by an
religious motifs
octagonal lantern.
and statues of
6 João I’s motto, Por bem (for the apostles in
good), is inscribed on his tomb. intricate late-
Gothic style.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp389–90 and pp403–4
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O 189
Manueline Portal
Most of the decoration of the
Unfinished Chapels dates from
the reign of Manuel I. Designed
by architect Mateus Fernandes,
this delicate portal was carved
in 1509.
. Founder’s Chapel
The tomb of João I and his English wife Philippa of
Lancaster, lying hand in hand, was begun in 1426 by
Huguet. Their son, Henry the Navigator, is also buried here.
. Great Cloister
Begun in the 1550s, probably
by Diogo de Torralva, this
cloister reflects João
III’s passion for
Italian art.
Concealed
spiral stair
ways in
the corners
lead to the
Terrace of
Wax.
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp389–90 and pp403–4
TOMAR 193
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
15-minute walk from Tomar
centre. Tel 249 313 481.
∑ conventocristo.pt
Open 9am–6pm daily (Oct–
May: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free
first Sun of month).
Transport
£ @ from Lisbon, Coimbra
& Leiria.
. Charola
The original Templar church, sometimes called the
Rotunda, was built in the shape of a 16-sided drum.
Cemetery Cloister
Monks’ tombstones
pave the perimeter of
this early 15th-century
cloister, the first to
be built here. In one
corner stands a well.
Entrance
Templar Castle
In 1160 the Templars’ Grand Master built
this castle on land given to the Order for
services in battle.
194 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp389–90 and pp403–4
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O 195
t Castelo de
Almourol
Road map C4. @ to Barquinha then
taxi then ferry. Open Tue–Sun during
daylight hours. n Largo 1 Dezembro,
Barquinha (915 081 737).
Remains of the hypocaust, the Roman underfloor heating system, at Vila Cardílio outside Torres Novas
196 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
p Coruche blue and white church of Nossa history are on display in the
Road map C5. * 3,500. £ @
Senhora do Castelo. From here Museu Municipal.
n Galeria do Mercado Municipal there are excellent views over The town centre retains
(243 619 072). ( last Sat of month. the fertile agricultural land and an exuberantly tiled covered
cork oaks of the Sorraia valley market dating from the
Coruche is an attractive little and the Lezíria. 1920s. Further east, on Largo
town in the heart of the da Misericórdia, striking
bullfighting country with a 18th-century azulejos
riverside location overlooking a Vila Franca adorn the chancel of the
the Lezíria, the wide open plain de Xira Misericórdia church. South
that stretches east of the Tagus. Road map C5. * 130,600. £ @
of town, the Ponte Marechal
The town, inhabited since n Rua Alves Redol 5 (263 285 605). Carmona, built in 1951, is the
Palaeolithic times, was razed ( Tue & Fri. only bridge across the River
to the ground in 1180 by the Tagus between Santarém
Moors as reprisal against Sitting beside the Tagus, to the north and Lisbon to
the reconquering Christians. surrounded by the riverside the south.
In the central pedestrian industries that dominate this
street, Rua de Santarém, the area, the town has a reputation E Museu Municipal
O Coruja café is lined with larger than its modest appear- Rua Serpa Pinto 65. Tel 263 280 350.
vivid modern azulejo panels ance suggests. Traditionally Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
showing bulls in the Lezíria, the area has been the centre Tue–Sun. Closed public holidays.
the town’s bullring and scenes for bull-and-horse
of local life. A short walk up the rearing communities.
street stands the tiny church Twice a year crowds
of São Pedro. Its interior is flock here to
completely covered with participate in the
17th-century blue and yellow bull-running through
carpet tiles. An azulejo panel the streets and
on the altar front shows watch the tourada
St Peter surrounded by birds and traditional
and animals. Above the town horsemanship. The
stands the simple 12th-century animated and gaudy
Festa do Colete
Encarnado (named Bull-running (largada) in Vila Franca de Xira
after the red waistcoat
worn by campinos, the Environs
Ribatejo herdsmen) takes place At the Centro Equestre da
over several days in early July. Lezíria Grande in Povos, 3 km
The festival is a lively occasion (2 miles) south, you can watch
with folk dancing, boat races stylish dressage displays on
on the Tagus and sardines Lusitanian horses (see p302).
grilled in the street. A similar
festival, the Feira de Outubro, G Centro Equestre da
takes place in October. Lezíria Grande
Chancel in the church of São Pedro covered Archaeological exhibits and N1. Tel 263 285 160. Open Tue–Sun.
in azulejos, Coruche artifacts relating to regional Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Aug, 25 Dec.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp389–90 and pp403–4
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O 199
s Alenquer
Road map C5. * 42,000. @
n Parque Vaz Monteiro (263 711
433). ( 2nd Mon of month.
THE BEIRAS
Stretching from the Spanish frontier to the sea, the
Beiras are a bulwark between the cool green north and
the parched south. This diverse region encompasses the
heights of the Serra da Estrela and the salt marshes of
the Ria de Aveiro, and its towns vary from lively Figueira
da Foz to the stately old university town of Coimbra.
The three provinces of the Beiras, which Conscious of Spain’s proximity and claim
form a part of the Centro region, may not on their land, successive Portuguese kings
be a tourist hub, but their past commercial constructed a great defensive chain of forts
and defensive significance has left its mark. along the vulnerable eastern border. The
In Beira Litoral, the prows of Aveiro’s sea seemingly impregnable walls of Almeida
weed boats are a legacy of trade with the still stand as a reminder of the region’s
Phoenicians. All over Beira Baixa, from unsettled history. These border fortresses
Castelo Branco to little granite villages, are continued to prove vital in the fight for
relics of foreign occupations, and Viseu, independence from Spain in the 17th
Beira Alta’s capital, grew up at a crossroads century, and again against Napoleon’s
of Roman trading routes. forces (see p58) . Even Buçaco, revered
The Romans were never as firmly or the peace and sanctity of its forest, is
entrenched here as further south, but the known also as the site of Wellington’s
ruins of Conímbriga speak eloquently of the successful stand against Masséna.
elegant city that once stood here, and which Despite the unforgiving terrain, the Beiras
gave its name to Coimbra, the principal city are the source of some gastronomic treats:
of Beira Litoral. Afonso Henriques, as king Portugal’s favourite cheese is made in
of the new nation of Portugal (see p46), the Serra da Estrela, and the lush Bairrada
moved his court to Coimbra, the young district around Mealhada is renowned for
country’s capital for over a century. its leitão, suckling pig. The region’s red
The upheavals of the nation’s founding wines are among Portugal’s best known:
and a hardwon independence have left a elegant Bairradas and powerful Dãos (see
rich heritage of castles and fortified towns. pp32–3) are particularly noteworthy.
Distinctive candy-striped beach houses in Costa Nova, between the Ria de Aveiro and the sea
Boats anchored at the Canal de São Roque, Aveiro
202 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Oliveira a
Vale de Cambra Ar
OCEA
de
ra
Sights at a Glance Ser
1 Arouca Torreira
Estarreja AVEI R O
Albergaria- São Pedro
2 Santa Maria da Feira do Sul
São Rio Voug a-Velha
IC
3 Ovar Jacinto
Talhadas
a
4 Aveiro pp206–7
ANT
AVEIRO Campia
5 Praia de Mira
lo
Ílhavo CARAMULO
mu
6 Figueira da Foz
AT L
ra
Águeda
7 Montemor-o-Velho Vagos
Ca
Tondela
do
8 Coimbra pp208–13 Sangalhos r ra
Se
9 Conímbriga PRAIA DE
0 Penela
MIRA Curia Carregal do Sal
Mira
q Lousã Mortágua
o
Mealhada LUSO
w Buçaco pp216–17 Ri
Cantanhede BUÇACO Tábua
e Luso
Tocha
r Arganil Portunhos
Penacova
t Piódão Ri o
COIMBRA Alva
y Oliveira do Hospital MONTEMOR- ARGANIL
Cabo O-VELHO
u Caramulo Mondego
i Viseu FIGUEIRA
Condeixa-
COIMBRA Góis
o Sernancelhe DA FOZ
Lavos
a-Nova LOUSÃ
p Trancoso CONÍMBRIGA
Soure
a Celorico da Beira
PENELA Álvares
s Almeida Rabaçal
f Guarda Leiria
g Serra da Estrela pp224–5 Barragem
h Belmonte Pedrógão do Cabril
j Sabugal Pequeno
Troviscal
k Penamacor
l Monsanto
Sertã
z Idanha-a-Velha
Ri
x Castelo Branco bei
ra d e I s n a
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 15
Getting Around
A rail network links the principal cities to smaller
towns, but stations are often outside the town.
Buses run from Coimbra to outlying areas, and
local buses link villages and towns throughout the
region. The most convenient way to explore the
Beiras, however, is by car. The Porto-Lisbon A1 (E2)
motorway passes close to Coimbra and Aveiro,
while the A25 motorway links Aveiro and the
eastern uplands. Long inclines and bad bends
make the A25 Portugal’s worst road for accidents.
Dão vineyards between Viseu and Mangualde All but the major routes are relatively traffic-free
and a pleasure to drive, although
unpaved surfaces can still be expected.
Vila Nova de
Moimenta Penedono Foz Côa
Vila
Real da Beira
omil
de Le Marialva
S e r ra Vila Nova
de Paiva
SERNANCELHE Castelo
Terranho Rodrigo
VISEU S e r ra
de
La
pa GUARDA
Calde Aguiar
da Beira TRANCOSO
Pinhel
Vila Franca ALMEIDA
Sátão das Naves
Vila BORDER
Penalva do CASTLES TOUR
Castelo Chã
VISEU CELORICO
DA BEIRA Pinzio
o
Dã Mangualde
Arrifana Castelo
Vilar
io Formoso
R Mendo
Nelas Linhares L A
E GUARDA Cerdeira
de
go TR
on Gouveia ES Vale de
a
M Adão
Cô
Paranhos Estrela
A
o
D
Ri
Seia
A
Valhelhas
RR
Manteigas Alfaiates
SE
Idanha-a-Nova
Oleiros
CASTELO BRANCO Key
Rio
s
lo
l vé Zebreira Motorway
d eA CASTELO
ra Major road
il
r Benquerenças BRANCO
rav
Se
sa
Minor road
oA
Proença- O cre
Rosmaninhal
a-Nova Rio
ad
Scenic route
Malpica
ei r
do Tejo
Rib
Main railway
Vila Velha Rio T Minor railway
ejo
do Ródão
National border
Abrantes
Regional border
Summit
204 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
7 Montemor-o-
Velho
Road map C3. * 2,600. @
n Castelo de Montemor-o-Velho
(239 680 380). ( every other Wed.
Ria de Aveiro
Porto
Old maritime charts show
no lagoon here, but in 1575 Furadouro •
Ovar
Denied access to the sea, Aveiro
declined, its population cut
down by the fever bred in the
stagnant waters. It was not until •
Avanca
1808 that the barra nova was •
Pardilhó
created, linking Aveiro once
more to the sea.
The lagoon which remains Intricately painted prow of a
Torreira
moliceiro in the Ria
Ria de A
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Other road
Salt marsh
The seaward waterfront at the fishing village of Torreira
8 Coimbra
The birthplace of six kings and the seat of Portugal’s oldest
university, Coimbra arouses an affection in the Portuguese
shared by no other city. To the Romans the town founded on
Alcaçova hill was Aeminium, but as its importance grew it took AVEIRO
RU
A
on the mantle and name of nearby Conímbriga (see p214).
H A DO
DO
G
AC NA
E
U
RR
Coimbra was wrested from the Moors in AD 878, only to
M AR
A
ÃO O
JU
come under their control again a century later, until finally
JO A D
Igreja NQ
UE
RU
da Graça IR
freed by Ferdinand the Great of Castile in 1064. When Afonso O
RU
A
R. ALC
Henriques, the first king of Portugal, decided to move his
F
R O ÃO
Bus Station O
SA
200 m ( 220 yards) UA
DA
R Igreja
capital south from Guimarães in 1139 (see pp46–7), his choice LARGO
AO
DE
O
do Carmo
DO JO
RM
was Coimbra, an honour it retained until 1256. For the ARNADO R. A
SO
C
O
FI
D
Portuguese, Coimbra carries the roots of nationhood and,
AV
A
A
RU
RU
A
EN
for visitors, a wealth of fascinating historic associations. DI
IDA
RE
IT
A PRACA 8
FER
IR A DE MAIO
B RE
A Santa Cruz
OC
NÃ
OÃ
Orientation students at Coimbra university. O LE I R
OS A J
R U LARGO
O D
R. VISCONDE
S
R. DO DAS VO
In the historic heart of the city, Beyond Praça 8 de Maio is Rua CÕ R
R. D D A L U Z
OLARIAS O
E
R. D
high above the Mondego, lie da Sofia, the “street of wisdom”,
MA
AS
O
IR
the cathedrals, university and named after the theological
GA
DE
S PA
R. D A
LH
São Tiago
a fine museum, but a first colleges that once stood here.
ÃE
VEI G A
A.
impression of Coimbra is likely The convent churches to which R.
S
PRACA DO
COMERCIO
to be of commerce, not culture. they were attached remain: the Coimbra 'A'
Arco de
RU
Shops, traffic and the railway Igreja do Carmo (1597), with a Almedina
BORGES A
rule the riverside and around 16th-century retable, and the
IR
AV
DA
R. FERRE
EN
the Praça do Comércio. The Igreja da Graça, founded by ID
SO
M A
Largo da Portagem is a useful João III in 1543. The nearby Pátio on
TA
de LARGO
starting point, and river trips da Inquisição is a reminder that AV go DA
PORTAGEM
EN
depart from nearby, alongside Coimbra, like Lisbon and ID EM
A ÍD
the Parque Dr Manuel Braga. Évora, was a seat in the DE IO
E
A
A ED
16th century of
AR
CO
NT NT
CL
NI
the fiercely
M
SA PO
BR
intolerant
ES
IG
A
TR
Inquisition
AD
A
(see p55).
DA
Estádio
GU
Universitário
AS
AR
DA
G
RE
ING
A
S
D
Tomb of Portugal’s first king, Afonso
L ES
ÃO
AV.
A
JO
Henriques, in Santa Cruz ROSSIO A
NID
IN Ê
AVE
DE SANTA
CLARA RU
A
SD
E CA
a-Nova
CO
Santa Clara-
NACIONAL A
TO
RAD
dos
O
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C3. * 143,800.
n Praça da República (939
010 084); Universidade de
Coimbra (239 242 744); Largo
da Portagem (239 488 120).
( Mon–Sat. _ May: Queima
das Fitas.
Transport
£ Coimbra A, Av Emídio
Navarro; Coimbra B, N of city, on
The stunning garden of Quinta das Lagrimas, N11. @ Av Fernão de Magalhães.
ROIO
in Coimbra
N TA R
RUA D E M O RU
L AU R U I F E R N A
R. OLÍM P I O N I CO AN DES AN
TE The tower now houses an arts
Mercado RO
Jardim
da NOV
A AV
EN
DE
QU
and crafts gallery. Among the
E
Manga F O NT ID EN houses lining the maze of steep
RU A D A A TA
EU S SÁ L
R PO
DE D R U A PAD R
E
DA alleys that wind up to the top of
CO AN BA
O JA C
IN TO
LO
R ES TÓ ND
EI
the hill are a number of
OÃ N
F
IO RA
repúblicas, student lodgings
S
DO
J
R.
VI
.D
R UA
EI
R
RUA D O
LO U Sé
RA since medieval times.
R EIR O PRAÇA
Torre de
Anto
Nova Teatro DA
REPÚBLICA
Coimbra’s two cathedrals,
Museu Nacional Académico
Sé Velha and Sé Nova (see
RUA D
LARGO
Castro VE p210), lie in the shadow of the
OS ESTU
DA SÉ LI Cruz
O OS
A.
VELHA
RUA S. JOÃO
Sé Velha
AR
A M
RU
RE
DOS
M
RUA S. PED RO
TO da República.
A AT O
CA S
E
D
ST O
Palacio A
RO
A
VA
RR Santa Clara (see p211) on the
O
Jardim southern bank have close ties
HENRI
Exploring Coimbra
That the citizens of Coimbra fondly call their river, the
Mondego, “O Rio dos Poetas” gives a clue to the affection they
have for their vibrant and beautiful city. From the university
(see pp212–13) at the top of Alcaçova hill, down the narrow
streets and stairways to the lower town, the city is crammed
with historic buildings and treasures (and, all too often, slow-
moving traffic). Most sights are within walking distance of
each other, and despite its steep hill, Coimbra is a city best
appreciated on foot. Across the Mondego there are further
Elaborate façade of the Sé Nova
historic sights and an unusual theme park for children.
R Sé Nova
king, Afonso Henriques, made Largo da Sé Nova. Tel 239 823 138.
the city of Coimbra his capital Open 9am–6:30pm daily. 5 6pm
and his son, Sancho I, was Mon–Sat, 11am & 7pm Sun. &
crowned here in 1185, soon after New is a relative term, as this
the cathedral was completed. church – a short walk from the
Inside, square piers lead the university – was founded by
eye up the nave to the flam the Jesuits in 1598. (Their
boyant retable over the altar. adjacent Colégio das Onze Mil
The work of Flemish wood Virgens is today part of the
carvers in about 1502, this sciences faculty.) The Jesuit Order
depicts the birth of Christ, the was banned by the Marquês de
Assumption and many saints. Pombal in 1759 (see p56) but
A 16thcentury altarpiece in their church became the epis
the south transept is also highly copal seat in 1772. Jesuit saints
decorated, as is the Manueline still look out from the façade.
The Sé Velha’s gilded altarpiece font, thought to be by Diogo The interior, more spacious
Pires the Younger. In contrast than the Sé Velha, is barrel
R Sé Velha is the quiet restraint of the vaulted, with a dome over
Largo da Sé Velha. Tel 239 825 273. cloister, built in 1218 but the crossing. To the left of the
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 11:30am– restored in the 18th century. entrance is a Manuelinestyle
6pm Sun. 5 6pm Mon–Fri, 7pm Sat The tomb of the city’s first octagonal font brought, like
& 10am Sun. Closed Sun & public Christian governor, Sisinando the choir stalls, from the
hols. & to church and cloister. (a Muslim convert who died in Sé Velha. The paintings
The fortressstyle Old Cathedral 1091), lies in the chapterhouse, above the stalls are copies
is widely regarded as the and in the north aisle is the of Italian masters. The altar
finest Romanesque building tomb of the Byzantine Dona piece in the 17thcentury
in Portugal, a celebration in Vetaça (died 1246), tutor to the chancel, featuring more Jesuit
stone of the triumph over the wife of King Dinis, the saintly saints, is flanked by a pair of
Moors in 1064. The nation’s first Queen Isabel (see p49). 18thcentury organs.
Coimbra seen from the Mondego, with the university’s landmark bell tower crowning Alcaçova hill
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp390–91 and pp404–5
COIMBRA 211
Coimbra University
In 1290 King Dinis founded a university in Lisbon,
one of the world’s oldest and most illustrious. In
1537 it was transferred to Coimbra and located
in what used to be King Afonso’s palace. Study
was mostly of theology, medicine and law until
the reforms by the Marquês de Pombal in the 1770s
broadened the curriculum. Several 19th-century Museu de Arte Sacra
literary figures, including Eça de Queirós (see p59), As well as works of art on religious
were alumni of Coimbra. Many buildings were themes, this museum has vestments,
chalices and books of early sacred
replaced after the 1940s, but the halls around the
music. It is currently closed.
Pátio das Escolas echo with 700 years of learning.
Coimbra University is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
KEY
Transport
@ 103 from train station.
Student Traditions
When the university was first founded, the
only subjects studied were canon and civil
law, medicine and letters – grammar and
philosophy. To indicate which faculty they
belonged to, students began to pin
coloured ribbons to their gowns: red
for law, yellow for medicine, dark blue
for letters. Much has changed in 700 Porta Férrea
years, but students are still initiated in Built in 1634, this
rites whose origins are long forgotten, heavy iron gate to
and in May, as the academic year ends, the university pátio
there is a ceremonial burning of ribbons, Burning faculty ribbons in best is flanked by figures
the Queima das Fitas. scholastic tradition representing the
original faculties.
214 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
q Lousã
Road map C3. * 16,700. £ @
n Rua João Luso (239 990 040).
( Tue & Sat.
Environs
Between Luso and Curia,
Mealhada is an attractive small
town in the heart of a region
famous for leitão, suckling pig.
This enormously popular dish
is prominently advertised at
numerous hotly competing
restaurants in the area.
r Arganil
Road map D3. * 13,300. @
n Avenida das Forças Armadas
(235 200 137). ( Thu.
w Buçaco
Part ancient woodland, part arboretum, the National
Forest of Buçaco is a magic place. As early as the
6th century it was a monastic retreat, and in 1628 the
Carmelites built a monastery here, walling in the forest to
keep the world at bay (women had already been banned
by the pope in 1622). In their secluded forest the monks
established contemplative walks, chapels – and trees.
The trees, added to by Portuguese explorers, gained
papal protection in 1632, and the 105 ha (260 acres) . Fonte Fria
contain some 700 native and exotic species, including This impressive cascade, fed by
the venerable “Buçaco cedar”. The peace of the forest the greatest of the forest’s six
was disturbed in 1810 as British and Portuguese troops springs, tumbles down to a
magnolia-fringed pool.
fought the French on
Buçaco ridge. In 1834 the
monastery closed, but the
so
Lu
forest endures, with its
shady walks, hermits’
grottoes and the
astonishing Bussaco
Palace Hotel at its centre. Luso
J
os
Fet
dos
Rua
KEY
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp390–91 and pp404–5
THE BEIRAS 217
Monastery
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Only the cloisters,
chapel and a few
Practical Information
monks’ cells of the
Road map C3. 3 km (2 miles)
Carmelite monastery
SE of Luso. n Luso (231 939
remain. A plaque
133).Open 9am–6pm (last adm:
records that
5pm). Forest: Open daily. & for
Wellington slept
vehicles all year round. Museu
in one of the
Militar: Almas do Encarnadouro.
cork-lined cells.
Tel 231 937 000. Open Tue–Sun.
& 7 _ 27 Sep: Anniversary of
Battle of Buçaco.
∑ fmb.pt
Transport
@
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
Mo
King Carlos, who commissioned
this extravaganza in 1888, never
lived to see his creation. His son,
Manuel II, visited only briefly
before his exile in 1910 (see p59) –
he is said to have brought the
French actress, Gaby Deslys, here
for a romantic interlude. Its rebirth
as a luxury hotel, serving its own
renowned wines, was the
inspiration of the royal chef and it
became a fashionable rendezvous
for socialites; in World War II
J it was also rumoured
to be frequented
by spies. It is
now one of the
great hotels
of Portugal
(see p390).
The village of Piódão, blending with the granite of the surrounding Serra de Açor
i Viseu
Road map D3. * 19,500. @
n Casa do Adro, Adro da Sé
(232 420 950). ( Tue.
o Sernancelhe
Road map D2. * 6,200. @ n Town
Hall (254 598 300). ( every other Thu.
Serra Cheese
s Almeida
Road map E2. * 1,500. @ n
Serra, made from the milk of ewes grazing in the Serra da Estrela Portas de São Francisco (271 570 020).
(see pp224–5), is Portugal’s finest cheese. It is made in the winter – ( 8th day & last Sat of month.
its success was once governed by the temperature of the women’s
hands as they worked in their cool granite kitchens – and traditionally Formidable defences in the
the milk is coagulated with flor do cardo, thistle. Now the small factories form of a 12-pointed star guard
producing the cheese, in rounds of 1.5–2 kg (about 3–5 lb), are certified this small, delightfully preserved
to ensure quality and authenticity (fakes are not uncommon). At room border town.
temperature Serra becomes runny. The cheese is scooped out with a
Almeida was recognized by
spoon through a hole cut into the top.
Spain as Portuguese territory
under the Alcañices Treaty on
12 September 1297, but this did
not stop further incursions. The
present Vauban-style strong-
hold (see p303) was designed
in 1641 by Antoine Deville
after Spain’s Philip IV, in post-
Restoration rage, destroyed the
earlier defences protecting the
town and its medieval castle.
From 1742 to 1743 Almeida
was in Spanish hands again, and
then during the Peninsular War
was held in turn by the French
A shepherd with his flock on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela under Masséna and the British
under the Duke of Wellington. In
1810, a French shell lit a powder
a Celorico da Beira which is manifested in a trail that destroyed the castle.
Road map D3. * 8,800. £ @ n
cluster of granite houses with To breach the town’s fortifi-
Rua Sacadura Cabral (271 742 109). Manueline windows and cations today, it is necessary to
_ cheese festival: Feb & Mar. Gothic doors. cross a bridge and pass through
Of the 10th-century castle, a tunnel. The underground
In the lee of the Serra da Estrela, battered by a long succession casamatas, soldiers’ barracks,
the pastures around Celorico of frontier disputes with Spain, can be visited and an armoury
da Beira have long been a only a tower and the outer in the main gateway, the Portas
source of the region’s famous walls remain. Its stark silhouette de São Francisco, holds further
Serra cheese. From November is less dramatic at close quarters. mementoes of Almeida’s military
to February a cheese market is The Igreja Matriz, which was past. In the town itself are a 17th-
held in the Praça Municipal, restored in the 18th century, century parish church and a
and there is a cheese fair every has a painted coffered ceiling. Misericórdia church of a similar
February. Around Rua Fernão During the Peninsular War, age, attached to one of Portugal’s
Pacheco, running from the the church served briefly as a oldest almshouses. A walk
main road up to the castle, is makeshift hospital for the around the grassy walls gives
the old centre of Celorico, English forces. rewarding views of the town.
Almeida’s complex fortifications, still discernible despite the incursion of grass and wild flowers
222 CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Vale J
Verde
Aldeia
Nova
Tour ra
ões
ei
Rib
de
Salamanca
Vilar
4 Pinhel
Formoso Fuentes
Part of the region’s defences Guarda
de Oñoro
since Roman times, Pinhel
formed the fulcrum for a
Sabugal
network of fortresses, and in
the early 14th century King
Dinis built it up into an
impressive citadel. Much of
this ring of walls survives, as Key
do two towers.
Tour route
Other roads
International boundary
Tips for Drivers
Length: 115 km (72 miles).
Stopping-off points: Most
villages have cafés, and Pinhel 5 Castelo Mendo
and Almeida have restaurants. Beyond the main gate, guarded
Road conditions: The tour uses by two stone boars, little survives
well-surfaced roads; short cuts 0 kilometres 10 of the castle here, but the distant
are deceptive and not recom- 0 miles 5
views make its role as a frontier
mended. (See also pp444–5.) fort easy to appreciate.
E Museu de Guarda
Rua Alves Roçadas 30. Tel 271 213
460. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public
holidays. & (free first Sun of month).
g Serra da Estrela
See pp224–5.
h Belmonte
Road map D3. * 3,500. £ @
n Castelo de Belmonte (275 911
488). ( 1st & 3rd Mon of month.
g Serra da Estrela
These “star mountains” are the highest range on mainland
Portugal, with much of the Serra over 1,500 m (5,000 ft).
The highest point rises to 1,993 m (6,539 ft) but is topped
by a small stone tower – the Torre – to “stretch” it to 2,000 m.
The exposed granite of the upper slopes is good for little but
grazing sheep, and stone shepherds’ huts form part of the
landscape, their thatched roofs renewed each year after the
harsh winter. Sheep have shaped the fortunes of the area,
providing wool for a textile industry and supplying milk for
Portugal’s best-known cheese. A designated nature reserve,
the Serra’s long-distance paths and stunning flora attract Cabeça do Velho
The granite of the mountain tops
walkers and nature enthusiasts, while a winter snowfall
has been eroded into many weird
brings skiers to the slopes around Torre. shapes, such as this “old man’s
head” near Sabugueiro. It is
matched by an “old woman’s head”
south of Seia.
Viseu
Valezim Alva •
•
Rib
eira
de Alvoco Torre •
Penhas da
Saúde
KEY
Unhais Alto da
1 Penhas de Saúde, once a health
da Serra
spa, is now popular with skiers. J • Pedrice
2 Seia is one of the main entry
points to the Parque Natural da
Serra da Estrela.
3 Manteigas, at the heart of the
Serra, is a textile centre. Just to the
west there is a pousada (see p390). Torre
Despite the
4 Covilhã, the largest town in unpredictability
the area, is known for its fine of snow, the slopes
textiles woven from locally below Torre are
produced wool. The textile used for skiing,
museum here deserves a visit. tobogganing or just
fun in the snow.
For keys to symbols see back flap
THE BEIRAS 225
•
Key
Prados Major road
Minor road
•
Linhares
•
Folgosinho Cabeça Alta Videmonte
•
Guarda
go
Galhardos nde
Mo Guarda
•
Manteigas
e Valhelhas
zer
Zè •
Belmonte
. Zêzere Valley
The Zêzere eventually joins the Tagus,
but here, near its source, the young
river flows through a classic glacier-
cut valley. The golden broom
growing here is used to thatch
mountain huts.
j Sabugal
Road map E3. * 3,000. @
n inside the castle (271 750 080).
( 1st Thu & 3rd Tue of month.
The historic little village of Idanha-a-Velha, among its olive groves beside the River Ponsul
NortherN
Portugal
Introducing Northern
Portugal 230–237
Douro and Trás-os-Montes 238–267
Minho 268–287
230 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Monção
Vila Nova
de Cerveira
Arcos de
Caminha Valdevez
Vila Praia
de Âncora Ponte da
Barca
Viana do MINHO
Castelo (See pp268–287)
Viana do Castelo, at the mouth of the River Vieira do
Minho
Lima, is elegant and relaxed (see pp280–81).
The stately buildings in the Praça da República, Esposende
including the arcaded Paços do Concelho (the
old town hall), reflect the town’s wealthy past. Barcelos
Braga
Guimarães
Bragança
Montalegre
Gimonde
Chaves
Boticas
Valpaços
Vidago
Trás-os-Montes Miranda
Cabeceiras
de Basto do Douro
Romeu
Mirandela
Sendim
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES
(See pp238–267)
Murça
Mogadouro
Vila Real
Torre de
Moncorvo
Peso da Alto Douro
Régua Pinhão
Mesão
Frio Freixo de
Lamego Espada à
Cinta
Penedono
Castro
Daire
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Tua
o
bo
Vila Real
Tua border. Régua and Pinhão are the
Peso da Régua main centres of production, but most
Pinhão
Do ur o Lamego top-quality vineyards lie on estates or
quintas in the harsh eastern terrain.
Styles of Port
There are essentially two categories of port: latter, which include tawny ports, are ready to
red and wood-aged. The former are deeper in drink when they are bottled. White port is in a
colour and will develop after bottling; the category of its own.
Vintage Port
In the interests of
maintaining the
highest standards
of quality – and
of not saturating
the market – port
producers do not
“declare” a vintage
every year. Each year, the wine
from the best vineyards is closely
Collecting grapes in tall wicker baskets for transport to the wineries monitored for 18 months, other
How Port is Made producers are consulted about
their quality, and then a decision
The climax of the Douro farmers’ year comes in late is taken. If a vintage is not
September when bands of pickers congregate to harvest declared, the wine may remain in
the grapes. More than 40 varieties are used for making port, wood to be blended as tawny or
but there are five recommended top varieties. LBV in future, or it may be bottled
as a “single quinta” port – a kind of
secondlabel vintage. On average,
producers declare a vintage three
times in a decade, though not
always in the same years.
A good vintage needs time in
bottle to reveal itself. Fifteen years
is seen as a minimum, although
many impatient drinkers do not
actually wait that long; there
is even a fashion for drinking
young vintage port. The nature
Fermentation in cement or
Treading the grapes in of vintage port’s aging process
steel tanks is a more common
stone tanks or lagares to results in a continuously evolving
method. Carbon dioxide builds
extract the juice is a feature list of great vintages. Most experts
up within the tank, forcing the
of very traditional quintas. agree, however, that no vintage
fermenting must (juice from the
Some shippers believe it has yet equalled that produced
grapes) up a tube into an open
adds a special quality. in 1963.
trough at the top. The gas is
released and the must sprays
back over the pips and skins, Pre-war vintages
in a process similar to treading. 1927, 1931, 1935: All great and
now very rare.
In the fortification process,
the semifermented must is Post-war vintages
run into a second vat where 1945, 1947, 1948, 1955:
brandy – actually grape spirit – For the very rich and
is added. This arrests the extremely lucky.
fermentation, leaving the wine 1963 Perhaps the greatest
sweet from natural grape sugar. postwar vintage.
1994 A fine vintage,
particularly from
Dow, Taylor and
Quinta do Noval.
1997 Another fine
vintage.
2000 A very
promising year.
2003 A superb
vintage with
attractive ripe
Thousands of bottles of Quality tawny port is fruit flavours.
Graham’s vintage port matured in oak casks in the
from 1977 await full matur port lodges. Once bottled, it
ation in the cellars of the is ready for drinking and does Taylor’s 1994 vintage
Vila Nova de Gaia lodge. not require decanting.
236 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Porto
Modern cooking is largely
confined to Porto, which has
some of the country’s most
innovative chefs, but the city
also retains culinary traditions
such as cooking tripe, which has
earned its citizens the nickname
tripeiros (tripe-eaters). It is also
famed for its egg-based pastries.
traditionally covered in paprika olive groves and orchards of the Vinho verde, the familiar light
powder after salting and drying, Terra Quente, the “hot lands” white and slightly fizzy wine from
of the lower Trás-os-Montes the Minho, has made something
has a long-standing reputation
of a comeback after a period of
as among the country’s best. region. Interestingly, the olive
neglect by producers as well as
Serra do Barroso, the mount- oils from here are prized for
consumers. Its appeal lies in its
ainous area bordering the their mildness of flavour. Farther acidity (the “crispness” and
Minho, gives its name to the north, beyond Bragança, lie “freshness” of wine writing), its
Barrosã breed of cow, made the drier and colder high plains carbon dioxide sparkle and its
tasty by grazing the high of the Terra Fria, where some relatively low alcohol content –
pastures of this wet area. inhabitants still spend the around 10 per cent. There is also
winter indoors, warmed by a fuller-bodied, more complex
their animals and living off style, made from the Alvarinho
Extreme Climates grape in and around the town of
The rows of vines that line the Monção. The red version of vinho
slopes of the upper Douro valley, verde is rarely found outside the
neatly tracing its con-tours, give region. Port wine (see pp234–5)
this once remote region a tamed is the other highlight among
appearance that belies its northern Portuguese drinks,
but modern wines from the
extremes of climate. Cold
Douro also merit serious
winters, slow warming in spring,
attention. They match the
and blistering-hot summers
regional cuisine admirably,
bring out the best in the thick- and their distinctive character
skinned grape varieties that go includes rare wine flavours
into making port. On the The shop window of an Porto pastelaria such as violets and heather.
valley’s northern side are the (pastry shop)
Trutas com presunto wraps fat Cozido à Portuguesa is a Toucinho do céu translates as
river trout in lean cured ham winter stew of beef, sausage “heavenly bacon” but is actually
before they are fried in bacon and root vegetables, suited to a rich and mouthwatering
fat until golden. the cold northern plains. almond cake.
NORTHERN PORTUGAL 239
DOURO AND
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
On its way to the Atlantic, the Douro or “Golden River” weaves its
scenic path through deep-cleft gorges, terraced with thousands
of vineyards, to the historic city of Porto, home of port. To the
northeast, the high plateaus and mountain ranges of Trás-os-
Montes, “Behind the Mountains”, form Portugal’s wildest region.
As early as the 9th century BC, Phoenician The upper reaches of the river are devoted
merchants arrived in the Douro estuary to the cultivation of grapes for port, the
to trade. The Romans later developed landscape shaped by endless vineyards
the settlements of Portus and Cale on and wine estates (quintas).
either side of the river, and the names In contrast with the thriving Douro valley,
subsequently united, as Portucale, to Trás-os-Montes is remote and untamed, a
denote the region between the Minho refuge in the past of religious and political
and Douro rivers. This was the nucleus exiles. The hard life and lack of opportunity
of the kingdom of Portugal (see pp46–7). to better it have depopulated the land;
The estuary and coastal strip, or Douro those who remain till the fields and herd
Litoral, is now a mix of fishing ports, beach their flocks in the unforgiving climate,
resorts and industrial zones, while Portus, according to the rhythm of the seasons.
at the river’s mouth, became Porto, the The rural north clings closely to tradition
regional capital and Portugal’s second city. and local festas are some of the country’s
Rich from centuries of trade, cosmopolitan most colourful (see pp232–3). Outside
Porto is at once modern and steeped influences are beginning to make an
in the past, its waterfront and higgledy- impact on Trás-os-Montes, but for the
piggledy streets a delight to explore. visitor it remains a land of quiet stone
From its hillside, Oporto looks across the villages amid fields of rye and moorland,
Douro to the lodges that nurture where the wild Parque Natural de
the precious wine to which the city Montesinho stretches from Bragança
gave its name: port. to the Spanish border.
Terraced vineyards covering the hillsides between Pinhão and Alijó, in the valley of the Upper Douro
A bridge over the River Sabor in Trás-os-Montes
240 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Sights at a Glance s L a ro u c o
rê S e r ra d o
1 Porto pp242–53 r Chaves Ge
do
2 Santo Tirso t Murça r ra
Montalegre
Se
3 Penafiel y Mirandela Barragem do
Alto Rabagão
4 Amarante u Bragança pp264–5 Paradela O
OS
5 Cinfães i Parque Natural de Montesinho Pinzio RR
BA
6 Mesão Frio o Miranda do Douro DO
SERRA Boticas
7 Peso da Régua p Mogadouro
Carvalhelhos
8 Lamego a Torre de Moncorvo Braga Vidago
0 Casa de Mateus pp260–61 s Freixo de Espada à Cinta
q Vila Real
Tours
w Parque Natural do Alvão
9 Port Country Tour pp258–9
VILA
e Serra do Barroso Vila Pouca
de Aguiar
Cerva ão
Alv
Guimarães
o
ad
Viana do TIRSO
Se
Viseu
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Porto’s quayside, the Cais da Ribeira, in the early morning
For keys and symbols see back flap
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES 241
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Port country near Pinhão, where vineyards clothe the banks of the Douro
Rio de Onor
Mofreita Montesinho
PAR França
QUE
N AT U R A MONTESINH
L DE
Ourense O
Rio
Vinhais
São Julião
M en
ela
BRAGANÇA Gimonde
te
Zoio
i ra
Rio
Sab
No
or
Valpaços Vale de
Ser
Telhas Vimioso
Vinhas Izeda
REAL Romeu
Macedo
de Cavaleiros
Malhadas
MIRANDA
Jou MIRANDELA rn
es BRAGANÇA DO DOURO
Bo Chacim Morais Duas
Franco de ro Igrejas
a ou
rr d
Se ga
MURÇA Trindade Souteio Mo Sendim
u de
a
oT er
ra
Abreiro Ri Alfândega S
da Fé MOGADOURO
Bemposta
UN
Do
São João
da Pesqueira FREIXO DE ESPADA
À CINTA
Vila Nova
de Foz Côa
Guarda
Getting Around
With the frenetic tempo of traffic in Porto, it is
best to negotiate the inner city by bus, taxi or on
foot. Boat trips from Porto are a good way to see
the varied Douro landscape at a relaxed pace.
Trains link Porto to the major towns of the north
and also run along the Douro valley. Services are
less frequent beyond Peso da Régua, but a trip
alongside the Douro is highly recommended. In
Trás-os-Montes, public transport is minimal and
driving is the most convenient way to explore this
remote region, especially now the A4 links Vila Real
and Bragança. However, the state of repair of many The Sabor near Bragança, on the southern edge of the
minor roads leaves a lot to be desired. Parque Natural de Montesinho
242 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
1 Porto
Ever since the Romans built a fort here, where their trading
route crossed the Douro, Porto has prospered from commerce.
Quick to expel the Moors in the 11th century and to profit
from provisioning crusaders en route to the Holy Land,
Porto took advantage of the wealth generated by Portugal’s
maritime discoveries in the 15th and 16th centuries. Later,
the wine trade with Britain compensated for the loss of the
lucrative spice trade. Still a thriving industrial centre and
Portugal’s second-largest city, Porto, sometimes referred to
as Oporto, blends industry with charm. In 2001 the city, A shop specializing in bacalhau (dried
the historic centre of which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, salted cod)
was the European Capital of Culture.
MATOSINHOS
Airport
The Cathedral District façades, many in faded glory, 20 km (12 miles)
Fundaçao de
Porto’s cathedral (see p246) a working population earns Serralves PRAÇA
MOUZINHO DE
A V.
DA
BOA
crowns the city’s upper level its living, hangs out the ALBUQUERQUE VIST
A
BOAVISTA
O
and in the surrounding streets washing, chats and mixes in
M PA I
GO D
L A RORA O
SA DE
D
are a variety of monuments lively street scenes. A UNESCO P RI
RU
SA U D A D E
LO U A
O
RU
A
DA
RUA DE ANIB A L
to the city’s past. These include neighbourhood, restoration ÇA R
A
RUA Igreja de São
DE
DO B OM S U C E SS O
C UN H A
N Martinho de
the Renaissance church of work on many of the old build- G
O
R . DE S
ÃO
RU Cedofeita
JÚLI
PA ULO PA A D
Santa Clara (see p245) and the ings and façades is widely DR O
E PA
O
CR D
turn-of-the-century railway ongoing. There is a growing UZ RE
DIN
DE RUA
station of São Bento (see p245), number of trendy bars and R. D O CAM PO A L DA T O R R I NDHA
EGRE PIE A
which both stand alongside cafés opening in the district, IS
DA
R UA
DE
DE A
bustling street markets. next to traditional grocery RU
A ID
RU ER N
AT
Beneath the towering cathe- stores and family-run restau- M YNE
R
A D
BRE
. DO
dral lies the crowded Barredo, rants, meaning there are VA
R
E V
NO
BO
A
Museu
R
DA
since medieval days, where drink and people-watch in both I NTA S Soares dos
R.
QU
R U Reis
balconied houses cling to each new and old Ribeira. NT R E
AD
. M
EE ANUE
other and to the vertiginous It is worth paying a few Museu Romântico L II
D
da Quinta da Macieirinha
R UA
that perfectly capture the opportunities. Ribeira is also Sights at a Glance Comunicações
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
PORTO 243
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C2. * 245,000. n Rua
Clube dos Fenianos 25 (223 393
472); Sé Cathedral, Calçada de D
Pedro Pitões 15 (223 325 174). _
2nd half of Jun: Festas da Cidade.
∑ visitporto.travel
Transport
k Francisco Sá Carneiro,
Pedras Rubras 20 km (12 miles)
N (229 432 400). £ National &
International: Campanhã;
Looking north up the Avenida dos Aliados to the Câmara Municipal Regional: São Bento (707 210
220). @ Praçeta Régulo
Cordoaria Clérigos (see p247). There are Megoanha; Rua Alexandre
Herculano; Rua da Restauraçao;
The Cordoaria gardens are several sculptures by Spanish
Interface Casa da Música;
simply referred to as Cordoaria, sculptor Juan Muñoz at this
Campo 24 de Agosto.
and lie in the lee of the hilltop urban park. Nearby, the winding
landmark of the Torre dos streets are home to some of the
RUA city’s quirkiest bars and shops. Boavista
DA B Lapa
OA VIST
A BRAGA, Avenida da Boavista is lined
LEÇA DO BAILIO
RUA
DE A
LV A PRAÇADA
Central and Baixa with hotels, apartments and
RES
CAB
R A L REPUBLICA
DA
The civic centre of Porto ranges shops. In the centre is the
RUA
R U A D O ALM A D A
GAS
DE
B R A
RUA D
OS R .D
O
AL
Trindade leading up to the modern roundabout more commonly
FER
Câmara Municipal, or town referred to as Rotunda da
ES D A
CE
ES
E MA
DO
N T
MIRA
Igreja
LH
EIR hall. Along this broad Boavista. At the centre stands
TI R
O
FE
DE
da Trindade R. D
RUA double avenue is a a great obelisk with a statue of a
I TA
E FE
ÁR
G E RNAN
R D
R. M
O ES TO
UEL R. J MAS high concentration lion (representing the Luso-
R U A D O B O NJ A R D
C ATA S A N TA
E MIG RUA
RUA DO ALMADA
R U A DM B A R D A
RINA
R . D A P IC A R IA
Mercado
BO
CORDOARIA
Câmara
Municipal do Bolhão of the city’s banks British forces) crushing an
DE
MENÉ
R E S Igreja CARLOS
DEI A
R UA
RA
ALBERTO
do Carmo R. S Train Station
AV. DO S A
A
T E R NTA
cafés. Look out for Next to the rotunda is the
E
PR.
IM
R UA D O GOMES
C A RM OTEIXEIRA
R.
Igreja dos BAIXA the Estação de Casa da Música, a striking
Universidade Congregados
Jardim da
DO
S
Aliados
C LÉRIG OS RU A 3 1 DE JANEIRO São Bento; this modern concert hall designed
ES
CAMP
R. DA M
Palácio
Cordoaria
R IA
AD
EIR
E PAR
ED train station is by Rem Koolhaas as part of
T Igreja dos A
PÁ TR
da Justiça one of the city’s the city’s regeneration project,
O
São Bento EN
AV. DE N R IQ U E
D A V IT BE N T O
DA Clérigos R.
Ó RI A
RA O
H
RU
Mosteiro de H
grandest build- in 2005. Also nearby is Igreja
EI INH
à E RC A A
CH
. AFO S
UA
.
SI OU
NO
RU A S
R . S ARA I VA R
NSO
OU
R UA S . U
Igreja da A
to the city should (see p249). South of here is
RU
OL
Misericórdia
A V. D
Igreja de S. U
ED
R
. INF
RA PE
São Francisco R
RIBEIRA E
Baixa, or “lower level”
Do Casa do
district, attracts local
RES
ur Infante
o Ponte de Dom Luís I
shoppers, especially to
the fashionable jewellery
VILA NOVA
DE GAIA COIMBRA and leather shops in and
Jardim do Morro around the pedestrianized
Rua de Santa Catarina and
the parallel Rua Sá da Bandeira.
Between them lies the two-
tier covered Bolhão market.
Exuberant and noisy, the market
Key provides an entertaining view
of Porto daily life and houses
Cathedral District pp244–5 tempting local produce. Every-
thing can be bought here, from
0 metres 300
fresh fruit and vegetables to
0 yards 300 flowers, household goods and Ribeira, the old town of Porto, and the
even pets. river Douro
For keys to symbols see back flap
244 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
RUA ESCUR
A
Terreiro da Sé
This broad open terrace offers a CA
wonderful panorama of the city. In one LÇA
DA
corner stands a stone monument, DE
VAN
complete with hooks. DO
MA
TERREIRO
M HUGO
DA SÉ
DO
DE
A
U
R
ES
ER
A P
Bishop’s palace
AR
IM
. Sé
. V
Praça da
Liberdade Praça de Almeida Garrett
Traffic hurries by oblivious to the
architectural diversity of this busy
square in the centre of Porto.
PRAÇA DE
ALMEIDA
GARRETT
DO
RIQ
A
RU
HEN
A
U
R
A D
The Fernandine
NID
Santa Clara
The Mannerist church
of Santa Clara presents a
strong contrast between
its simple external façade
and the opulent gilded
woodwork of its interior.
0 metres 50 Key
0 yards 50 Suggested route
Exploring Porto
Throughout Porto there is evidence of the wealth that Where the monastery of São
Francisco once stood, the city’s
flowed into the city from the 15th century onwards. Trade
merchants built the stock
in the commodities from Portugal’s newly claimed lands exchange, or Bolsa, in 1842. The
(see pp52 –3) brought Brazilian gold and exotic woods to Tribunal do Comércio, where
embellish Porto’s churches, and prosperous merchants spent Porto’s mercantile law was
prodigiously on paintings and azulejos. Today, this gracious upheld, is full of historic interest.
capital of the north is a thriving cultural hub and easily visited The glittering highlight is the
Arabian Room. This galleried
on foot, starting in the prime riverside location of the ancient
salon, its convoluted blue and
Ribeira district. gold arabesques inspired by
Granada’s Alhambra, makes a
E Casa-Museu Guerra setting fit for Scheherazade.
Junqueiro
Rua de Dom Hugo 32. Tel 222 003 E World of Discoveries
689. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. Rua de Miagaia 106. Tel 220 439 770.
Closed public hols. & Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (till 7pm
The home of poet and fiery Sat & Sun; last adm 30 min before
Republican activist Guerra closing). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Junqueiro (1850–1923) is an 18th- ∑ worldofdiscoveries.com
century Baroque gem. The poet’s An interactive museum with a
private collection ranges from small ride, this family adventure
ceramics and Portuguese furni- is located in the heart of the
ture to Flemish tapestries and a city centre. The twenty themed
set of English alabaster sculptures. areas tell the story of Portugal’s
In the Dom João V Room there is history, including the various
a colourful parade of dogs. stages of the Portuguese
Discoveries and the country’s
P Casa do Infante groundbreaking maritime
Rua da Alfândega 10. Tel 222 060 400. achievements in the 15th and
The Gothic cloisters on the south side Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm 16th centuries.
of the Sé Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
87 E Museu dos Transportes
R Sé Legend has it that Prince Henry e Comunicações
Terreiro da Sé. Tel 222 059 028. the Navigator was born in this Rua Nova da Alfândega, Edifício
Open Oct–Mar: 9am–6pm Mon– house on Porto’s riverfront. da Alfândega. Tel 223 403 000.
Sat (till 7pm Apr–Sep), 9am– Today the building houses Open 10am– 1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Fri,
12:30pm & 2:30–6pm Sun (till 7pm Porto’s city archives, which 3–7pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
Apr–Sep). 5 11am. Cloisters: include historical documents, 24 Jun, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ amtc.pt
Open Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm among them Prince Henry’s Housed in a vast Neo-Classical
Mon–Sat (till 6:30pm Apr–Sep),
christening certificate, photo- building on the riverfront, this
2:30–5:30pm Sun (till 6:30pm
graphs and archaeological finds. museum includes a permanent
Apr–Sep). &
exhibition on the automobile
Built as a fortress church P Palácio da Bolsa and interactive exhibitions on
in the 12th and 13th Rua Ferreira Borges. Tel 223 399 013. media, science, new tech-
centuries, the cathedral has Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6:30pm daily; nologies and art. The building
been modified several times. Nov–Mar: 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm also houses a coffee shop,
The beautiful rose window daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & various spaces for cultural
in the west front is from the 8 compulsory. events and the customs service.
13th century. The small
chapel to the left of the
chancel has a dazzling silver
retable, saved from invading
French troops in 1809 by a
hastily raised plaster wall.
The south transept gives
access to the 14th-century
cloisters and the Capela de
São Vicente. An 18th-century
staircase leads to the upper
levels, where azulejo panels
depict the life of the Virgin
and Ovid’s Metamorphoses. The magnificently gilded Arabian Room in Porto’s Palácio da Bolsa
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
PORTO 247
Solomon, who
succeeded his
father, David, Jesse is shown with the
was famed for roots of the Tree springing
his wisdom and from his loins. His youngest
for the building son was David, the slayer of King David,
of the Temple Goliath, who became king identified by
in Jerusalem. of Israel and Judah. his harp
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
PORTO 249
Portuguese art. This includes E Museu Romântico Almeida Garrett, the great
paintings by the 16th-century Rua de Entre-Quintas 220. Tel 226 Portuguese Romantic poet,
master, Frey Carlos, and the 057 033. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, playwright and author.
Impressionist, Henrique Pousão. 10am–noon & 2–5pm Sun.
Also hung here are landscapes Closed public hols. & Y Jardim do Palácio
of Porto by the French artist, The Quinta da Macieirinha, a de Cristal
Jean Pillement (1728 –1808). handsome 18th-century Rua Dom Manuel II. Open 8am–9pm
The star sculpture exhibit, mansion, was briefly the daily (Oct–Mar: to 7pm).
O Desterrado (The Exile), is residence of the abdicated Inspired by the Crystal Palace
Soares dos Reis’s own marvel King Carlo Alberto of Sardinia of London’s Great Exhibition in
of pensive tension in marble, (1798–1849), who lived here 1851, Porto’s own crystal palace
completed in 1874. Further for the final two months of his was begun in 1861. The steel
sections display Portuguese life. In 1972 the upper floor of and glass structure of the
pottery, Limoges enamels, the building was converted original was replaced in the
porcelain and decorative into a museum. The well- 1950s by the Pavilhão Rosa
art. Historical exhibits in the proportioned rooms looking Mota, an ungainly shape
museum include an appealing out over the river display dubbed “the half-orange”.
15th-century silver bust of São French, German and Portuguese Concerts are occasionally held
Pantaleão, patron saint of Porto. furniture, as well as rugs, here and the leisure gardens
ceramics and miscellaneous are enlivened by a fair at festa
R Igreja de São Martinho exhibits. Among the oil time. The gardens themselves
de Cedofeita paintings and watercolours on are the star attraction, with
Largo do Priorado. Tel 222 000 635. show here are portraits of avenues of lime trees and
Open 4–7pm Tue–Fri. 7 Baron Forrester (see p258) and wonderful river views.
Constructed in Romanesque
style in the 12th century, this
plain little church is thought
to be the oldest in the city.
It is said to have been built
on the site where Theodomir,
the King of the Suevi (a
Germanic tribe who occupied
the area), was converted
to Christianity in the 6th
century by Saint Martin. Picturesque Jardim do Palácio de Cristal
E Casa da Música
Avenida da Boavista 604. Tel 220 120
220. 8 9:30am–7pm daily (to 6pm Sun
& public hols). ∑ casadamusica.com
The Casa da Música is a venue
for all types of music, from
classical to fado and from
electronica to jazz. It also
promotes research into the
origins of Portuguese music. The Art Deco Casa de Serralves
Attractive, historic houses line the river in the old town of Ribeira, Porto
PORTO 253
ÃO
IM
S
PORTO
O
A DO C A B
RU
Ponte
Dom Luís I Mosteiro da
Serra do Pilar
AV
E
IT
EN
S
C
S LE TA
A
Cálem ID EI
I
D O FR
E
OG
A
R. G E
DI D
RA
R.
PE A R.
C OR E I
SER
E
ES
RO C
Castelo D
I A A DA
S
Douro ID
A Jardim do
RR
A
R
C . DA
E N Sandeman H Morro RU
TA
NERA L TO
AV A L
E ÃO
Exhibition
DA
RUA D
PIN
A GE
M OS
RE
A V. R A R. D
AF
Graham
IRO
O AGRO
RU
ER
PÚ
Ferreira VE
N
E MAGALHÃE S
RUA D A RU A A. D
AM
BL
A
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RVAL H R. MÕ E S
A CA O SA CA
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R U A E. GARCIA
NJ
IC
SA RU
DE
RA A
C NT
RE
G
O O
IS
RU
O
JA
ST S
A
LU
R U
I
Vasconcelos
N
U
A
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VA
General Torres
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0 metres 250
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1 Graham 6 Ramos Pinto
2 Ferreira 7 Taylor
3 Cockburn 8 Sandeman
4 Barros 9 Cálem
5 Vasconcelos 0 Borges
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
254 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Environs
One of the region’s foremost
estates producing vinho verde
is Quinta da Aveleda, just
north of Penafiel.
Boelhe, around 17 km (11 miles)
south of Penafiel, merits a detour
for the 12th century church of
São Gens. Only 10 m (33 ft) high,
and a mere 7 m (23 ft) in width
and length, it is claimed to be
the smallest Romanesque church
in the country. Its simple design
enhances the aesthetic appeal.
The former monastery of São Bento at Santo Tirso, now a college In the 13thcentury church of
São Salvador at Paço de Sousa,
2 Santo Tirso Environs 8 km (5 miles) southwest of
At Roriz, 13 km (8 miles) east of Penafiel, is the tomb of Egas
Road map C2. * 13,900. £ @
Santo Tirso, the Romanesque Moniz. A figure of legendary
n Praça 25 de Abril (252 830 411).
( Mon.
church of São Pedro perches loyalty, he was counsellor to
above the Vizela valley. A date Afonso Henriques (1139–85), the
Santo Tirso, a major textile of 1228 is carved in the porch, first king of Portugal.
centre, lies beside the River although there are claims that a
Ave. The town’s most notable church may have stood here as Quinta da Aveleda
building is the former monas early as the 8th century. Above Signposted from N115. Tel 255 718 200.
tery of São Bento. Founded by the portal is a fine rose window. Open Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct: daily).
the Benedictines in the 8th Set apart from the church are an Closed public hols. & 7
century, the monastery was attractive bell tower and the 8 compulsory.
later rebuilt, then modified in ruins of the monastic cloister.
the 17th century. The pairs of Sanfins de Ferreira, 5 km
columns in the 14thcentury (3 miles) further east, is the
Gothic cloister are graced with hilltop site of a citânia, an Iron
richly carved capitals. Age citadel, probably inhabited
The monastery, now an agri from around the 6th century BC.
cultural college, also houses Traces remain of a triple ring of
the Museu Abade Pedrosa, defensive walls around about
featuring local archaeological 100 huts, and there is also a
finds, including stone axes, small museum on the site.
bronze armlets and ceramics. The guard next door will let
you in on public holidays.
E Museu Abade Pedrosa The tiny church of São Gens at Boelhe,
Rua Unisco Godiniz 100. T Sanfins de Ferreira south of Penafiel
Tel 252 830 400. Open Tue–Sun. Sanfins, signposted off N209.
Closed public hols. Tel 255 963 643. Open Tue–Sun.
4 Amarante
3 Penafiel Road map D2. * 70,000. £ @
n Largo do Arquinho (255 420 246).
Road map C2. * 8,000. @ n ( Wed & Sat.
Largo Padre Américo (255 710 722).
( 10 & 20 of month. The pretty, riverside town of
Amarante is one of the gems
The granite town of Penafiel of northern Portugal. Rows of
stands on a hilltop above the 17thcentury mansions with
River Sousa. Apart from an brightly painted wooden
elegant Renaissancestyle balconies line Amarante’s
Igreja Matriz, there is also a narrow streets, and restaurants
sanctuary, Nossa Senhora da seat diners on terraces over
Piedade, built in 1908 in a hanging the river. The origins
curious medley of NeoGothic of the town are uncertain but
The sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Piedade and Byzantine styles. Penafiel the first settlement here was
in Penafiel is chiefly known, however, as probably around 360 BC.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES 255
Environs
At the foot of the valley 4 km
(2 miles) east, the Capela de
São Pedro de Balsemão is said
to be the oldest church in
Portugal. Although much
modified, the 7th-century
sanctuary, of Visigothic origins,
remains. Here, in an ornate
tomb, lies Afonso Pires, a
14th-century bishop of Porto.
A statue of Nossa Senhora do
Ó, the pregnant Virgin, is from
the 15th century.
The 12th-century monastery
of São João de Tarouca, the
first Cistercian house in Portu-
gal, lies 16 km (10 miles) south
of Lamego. The interior of the
church has many fine 18th-
The grand staircase leading up to Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Lamego entury azulejo panels, notably
those in the chancel depicting
R Nossa Senhora original square tower, while the the founding of the monastery,
dos Remédios rest of the architecture reflects and in the sacristy, where none
Monte de Santo Estêvão. Open daily. modifications between the 16th of the 4,709 tiles has the same
A small hilltop chapel, and 18th centuries, including a design. The church also
originally dedicated in 1391 to Renaissance cloister with a contains a remarkable St Peter
St Stephen, became the focus of dozen arches. by Grão Vasco. The Count of
pilgrims devoted to the Virgin, Barcelos, bastard son of King
and in 1761 Nossa Senhora dos E Museu de Lamego Dinis, is buried here, his tomb
Remédios was built on the Largo de Camões. Tel 254 600 230. adorned with vigorous scenes
spectacular site. The church is Open daily. Closed public hols. & of a boar hunt.
reached via an awe-inspiring One of the country’s best Just to the northeast, Ucanha
double stairway, similar to local museums is housed in is famed for its fortified tollgate
Braga’s even larger Bom Jesus the former bishops’ palace. and bridge, imposing survivals
(see pp284–5). Its 686 steps and Pride of place goes to the from the 12th century.
nine terraces, embellished with strikingly original Criação dos
azulejos and urns, rise to the Animais (Creation of the R São João de Tarouca
Pátio dos Reis, a circle of noble Animals), part of a series of Signposted from N226. Tel 254 678
granite figures beneath the masterly altar panels attributed 766. Open daily. 7
twin-towered church. The
church itself is of marginal
interest, but there is a well-
earned view across the town to
the Douro and its tributaries.
In early September pilgrims
arrive in their thousands for
Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa
Senhora dos Remédios (see p36),
many of them climbing the
steps on their knees.
R Sé
Largo da Sé. Tel 254 612 147.
Open daily.
Lamego’s Gothic cathedral,
founded in 1129, retains its The monastery church of São João de Tarouca in its peaceful setting
258 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Estrada
Galafura
Corgo
Quinta
Douro São Luís J
Folgosa
2 Pinhão
Many of the most Tips for Drivers
famous names in Tour length: 125 km (78 miles).
port production Beyond Pinhão, steep, narrow
have quintas close roads can make the going slow.
to this small town. Stopping-off points: The drive
Its railway station beside the Douro has several
is decorated with fine viewpoints. Régua and
24 dazzling azulejo Sabrosa make good overnight
panels depicting stops (see pp391–2) and many
local scenes and of the quintas offer tours and
folk culture. port-tasting.
3 Sabrosa
The village of Sabrosa, set
among vineyards above the
Sanfins do River Pinhão, has a wealth of
Douro
15th-century houses. It was in
one of these that the explorer
Cheires Magellan (see p52) was born
in about 1480.
Pin
hão
a
r
6 Barragem de Valeira
Until the end of the 18th century the
Douro was unnavigable beyond Cachão
de Valeira. Even when engineers had
bypassed the worst of the rapids, this
stretch of water remained treacherous –
it was here that Baron Forrester met his
death – until the water was tamed by
the Valeira dam in 1976.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
260 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
0 Casa de Mateus
The splendid manor house, or solar, depicted on the labels
of Mateus Rosé epitomizes the flamboyance of Baroque
architecture in Portugal. It was built in the early 18th century,
probably by Niccolò Nasoni, for António José Botelho Mourão,
whose descendants still live here. The house, which was
declared a national monument in 1911, is also a breeding
ground for creativity, offering 11 six-month residencies to The wood-panelled library, repository of
budding artists. many valuable works
The principal façade of the Casa de Mateus, its pinnacled symmetry reflected in a rectangular pool
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES 261
To town
Santa Maria
The church’s elaborately
carved portal dates from its
18th-century restoration.
. Domus Municipalis
This, the only surviving example of
Romanesque civic architecture in
Portugal, served as a hall where the
homens bons (“good men”) settled
disputes. Below was the town’s cistern.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES 265
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map E1. * 35,000.
n Avenida Cidade de Zamora
(273 381 273); Rua Abílio
Beça (273 331 078). ( Fri.
_ mid-Aug: Nossa Senhora
das Graças. Castle and Museu
Militar: Tel 273 322 378.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public
hols. &
Key Museu Abade de Baçal gardens, where archaeological finds are displayed
Suggested route
Beyond the Citadel and instruments of torture.
By the 15th century, Bragança In the garden are a variety of
0 metres 50 had expanded west along the archaeological discoveries
0 yards 50 banks of the River Fervença. including porcas and tablets
The Jewish quarter in Rua dos with Luso-Roman inscriptions.
Fornos survives from this era,
when Jews from North Africa R São Bento
Porta do Sol and Spain settled here and Rua de São Francisco. Open by
founded the silk industry. appointment. 7
Despite its royal links, the town Founded in 1590 by Bishop
never overcame its isolation, the António Pinheiro, São Bento
Bragança monarchs preferring has two startlingly contrasting
Vila Viçosa (see pp304–5). Only ceilings: a splendid canopy of
now are the investments of Moorish-influenced geometric
returning emigrants and the carving in the chancel, and a
completion of the Porto-Spain richly coloured 18th-century
motor way reviving trade. A trompe l’oeil over the nave.
cathedral “for the millennium” was
inaugurated in 1996, another R São Vicente
indicator of the city’s rebirth. Largo do Principal. Open variable hours.
Near the modest old cathedral The secret wedding between
in the town centre is a lively Inês de Castro and Dom Pedro is
covered market where reputed to have taken place here
delicacies such as smoked in 1354 (see p185). The original
hams and alheiras (chicken 13th-century church was
sausages) are sold. reconstructed in the 17th century
with the addition of a great deal
E Museu Abade de Baçal of sumptuous gilt work. The
Rua Abílio Beça 27. Tel 273 331 595. azulejo panel to the right of the
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. main door depicts General
& (free first Sun of month). Sepúlveda exhorting the citizens
The Abbot of Baçal (1865–1947) of Bragança to free themselves
was a prodigious scholar whose from French occupation in 1809.
definitive researches into the
region’s history and customs,
including its Jewish connec-
tions, were published in 11
volumes. Bragança’s museum
is named after him.
Highlights among the paint-
ings are The Martyrdom of St
Ignatius, an unsigned triptych
of the 16th century, and water-
Houses within the Citadel colours by Aurélia de Sousa
Bragança had outgrown the (1865–1922), including A
citadel by the 15th century, Sombra (In the Shade). In
but streets of small houses still another section are colourful Street in the old Jewish quarter, sloping
cluster within the walls. pauliteiros costumes (see p233) steeply down to the river
266 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
The church and town of Mogadouro, viewed from beside the ruins of its 13th-century castle
MINHO
Known as the birthplace of the nation, the Minho has two
of Portugal’s most historic cities: its first capital, Guimarães,
and Braga, the north’s main religious centre. Life in the
province is still firmly rooted in tradition. Agriculture thrives
thanks to abundant rainfall that makes this the greenest
area in Portugal.
The province of Minho occupies land followed by the Visigoths, who were
between the River Douro in the south ousted in turn by the Moorish invasion
and the River Minho in the north. of 711. The Minho was won back from
Fortified hilltop stone forts (castros) the Moors in the 9th century. The region
remain as evidence of the Neolithic rose to prominence in the 1100s under
history of the region. When Celtic Afonso Henriques (see pp46–7), who pro-
peoples migrated into the area in claimed himself the first king of Portugal
the first millennium BC, these sites and chose Guimarães as his capital.
developed into citânias (settlements) The Minho’s fertile farms and estates
such as Briteiros. have been handed down within families
In the 2nd century BC, advancing for centuries, each heir traditionally
Roman legions conquered the land, receiving a share of the land. The
introduced vine-growing techniques economy of the Minho concentrates
and constructed a network of roads. on medium-scale industry around
Roman milestones are still visible in Braga and Guimarães. Agriculture in the
Peneda-Gerês National Park. When valleys includes production of the area’s
Christianity became the official distinctive vinhos verdes or “green wines”.
religion of the Roman empire in the Despite the growth of tourism, the Minho
4th century AD, Braga became an has maintained its strong folk traditions.
important religious centre, a position Carnivals and street markets pervade
it holds to this day. The Suevi swept everyday life and ox-drawn carts are still
aside the Romans in the 5th century, in use.
Cows being herded across a bridge near the Brejoeira Palace, south of Monção
Aerial view of the basilica at Monte de Santa Luzia, near Viana do Castelo
270 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
de Âncora
ga
r
Afife Se Ar Lim
a
PONTE DA
do Rio
BARCA
Sta. Comba
Montedo Outeiro PONTE DE LIMA
0 kilometres 10
Lanheses Portela
0 miles 5 Perre Correlha do Vade
Queijada
VIANA DO
CASTELO Darque Deocriste Corvos
Cabedelo Caldelas
Barroselas Vila Verde
Castelo do Balugães
Neiva
Prado
Palme
Mar BOM JESUS
Abade do Neiva DO MONTE
Eirôgo o
ad BRAGA
Esposende Cáv
BARCELOS Rio
Martim
Fão
Vila Seca
Tebosa
Nine
Estela Necessidades
Rates Vermoin
A Ver-
o-mar Vila Nova de
Famalicão
Rio Mau Riba d’Ave
Póvoa de
Varzim
Ribeirão
VILA DO
CONDE Rio Ave
Árvore Porto
Manueline portal on the 16th-century parish church, Porto
Vila do Conde
Sights at a Glance
1 Caminha
2 Valença do Minho
3 Monção
4 Parque Nacional da Peneda-
Gerês pp276–7
Ourense 5 Ponte da Barca
6 Ponte de Lima
São 7 Viana do Castelo pp280–81
Melgaço Gregório
8 Vila do Conde
Rio Tranc
9 Barcelos
Castro w Guimarães
Cubalhão Laboreiro
Lamas de e Citânia de Briteiros
Mouro
r Cabeceiras de Basto
da
ne
Pe
Getting Around
Ser
PARQ
Britelo
NA
Entre Portela do
N ÊS common hazard, and motorists
O
Homem
do
ER
Ambos-os-Rios AL
-G need to allow time for the scenic
DA PENEDA Outeiro
routes winding through the
Campo do Gerês mountains in the east. Train routes
rra
Paradela
link Porto to Barcelos and Viana do
Se
Caldas
do Gerês Castelo, en route to the border
Terras do
Cabril
with Spain; separate lines run to
Bouro
Guimarães and Braga from Porto.
Vilar da Veiga Salamonde A bus network provides frequent
service to the main towns, but it is
Caniçada
Chaves reduced for more isolated destina
Amares
Cerdeirinhas Vieira do tions, especially those in the east.
Minho
BRAGA
S e r ra
Póvoa de do B a r ro s o
Lanhoso Rossas
Eiró
Arosa
CITÂNIA DE
BRITEIROS CABECEIRAS
Freitas DE BASTO
Caldas das Baúlhe Vila Pouca
Taipas Moreira de Aguiar
São Torcato Key
ega
de Rei
R i o Tâm
Fafe Motorway
GUIMARÃES
Major road
Penha
Mondim de Basto Minor road
3 Monção
Road map C1. * 25,000. @
n Praça Deu la Deu, Casa do Curro
(251 649 013). ( Thu.
de Mouro
variety of fauna, including rare wolves and eagles. The park’s
Castro
long-distance footpath is well signposted (in parts); six
•
Laboreiro
sections are limited to groups of between 10 and 15 people.
eda
Surrounded by massive rocks, this
elaborate sanctuary is a replica of Senhora da
Pen
Bom Jesus (see pp284–5). The site Peneda
J
•
da
is visited in early September by
ra
pilgrims from all over the region.
Ser
Mezio
•
Soajo
•
Arços de
Valdevez
Lindoso
Soajo a
Lim
KEY
•
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C1. n Caldas do
Gerês: on main road (253 390
110); Lamas do Mouro: next to
•
Rodeiro camp site; Arcos de Valdevez: Rua
Professor Dr Mário Júlio Almeida
Costa (258 520 530). Information
on camp sites, hiking & pony trek-
king is available at these offices at
• Seara
Montalegre (see p262) and at
Ponte da Barca. Lindoso castle:
Pitões das Júnias Monastery Open daily. Closed public hols. &
Dating to 1147, the picturesque ruins of this Transport
monastery lie approximately 3 km (2 miles) south @ from Braga to Caldas do Gerês;
of the road leading into Pitões das Júnias village. from Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo &
Lindoso; from Melgaço to Castro
Inverneiras in Laboreiro & Lamas de Mouro.
Seara
Migration during
the summer from
these solidly built
winter houses to
brandas, stone
shelters high in •
Pitões das
Júnias
J
•
Homem
Portela do Outeiro Montalegre
Homem Albufeira de •
. Roman Road
Paradela
Sections of the old Roman road
that ran from Braga to Astorga in
s
rê
Paradela
rra
Se
6 Ponte de Lima
Road map C1. * 3,200. @
n Passeio 25 de Abril, Torre da
Cadeia Velha (258 240 208).
( every other Mon.
Palacete Sá
Sotto Mayor
dates from the PRAÇA
Renaissance. DA
REPÚBLICA
S
O
RU
N
R
O
A
F
Museu
SA
S
Municipal,
O
CA
D
Nossa
A
D
L
Senhora da U
IE
RA
Misericórdia
V
Agonia
Built in 1598, this unique
CA
A
arcades supported by
A
IC
magnificent caryatids.
DA P
ÇO
PO
RUA
DO
A
RU
PRAÇA O
DA IN
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A
RU
A H
OSP
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. Praça da República AL
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LH
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map C1. * 25,000. n Viana
Welcome Centre, Praça do Eixo
Atlântico (258 098 415). ( Fri. _
2nd Sun in May: Festa das Rosas; 20–
23 Aug: Romaria de Nossa Senhora
da Agonia. ∑ portoenorte.com
Transport
£ Largo da Estação.
Casa de João Velho The fountain in Praça da República, the centre of daily life in Viana
is a 15thcentury
house, said to have Exploring Viana do Castelo chapel of Nossa Senhora da
belonged to the Both a busy fishing port and Agonia houses a statue of Our
town’s most holiday resort, Viana is over Lady of Sorrows (agonia). The
RU famous looked by the peak of Monte chapel, with façade and altar
A
GA navigator. de Santa Luzia. The town is the designed by André Soares, draws
GO
CO capital of Minho folk culture, enormous crowds for the romaria
U
T
playing host to lively festivals of Nossa Senhora da Agonia, a
and supporting a thriving threeday festival held each year
IN
O
IR
UE finds and paintings. modelled on the Sacré
EQ In one of the upstairs
S Coeur in Paris, is a pilgrim
DO rooms, walls are tiled age site with little aesthetic
V.
with animated alle appeal. The steep climb,
gorical depictions of however, is rewarded by the
the continents, while superb views from the top
the chapel is lined with of the dome. Behind the
tiles signed by church you can wander
18thcentury artist along woodland paths
Policarpo de Oliveira or visit the Pousada
Bernardes (see p30). Early 19th-century Monte de Santa Luzia
Among the exhibits are ceramic, Museu (see p392). From the
a 17thcentury Indo Municipal pousada, it is a short
Portuguese cabinet walk to the top of the
magnificently decorated hill, where there are traces of a
with inlaid ivory, and pieces Celtiberian settlement (citânia).
of Porto faïence from the The excellent beach of Praia
Massarelos district, embellished do Cabedelo, to the south of the
with fine brushwork. town, is accessible by road via the
. Igreja Matriz bridge or by a fiveminute ferry
The arch surrounding the west
R Nossa Senhora da Agonia crossing from the riverside dock
door of Viana’s 15thcentury,
fortresslike parish church is
Campo de Nossa Senhora da Agonia. on Avenida dos Combatentes da
Tel 258 824 067. Open daily. 7 Grande Guerra. To the north lies
adorned with Gothic reliefs of
the apostles. Northwest of the centre, the mid Vila Praia de Âncora, another
18th century Romanesque popular beach resort.
282 NORTHERN PORTUGAL
0 Braga
Churches, grand 18th-century houses and pretty gardens
provide the focus for the charm and interest of Braga’s centre,
once past the urban development on the city outskirts.
Known in Roman times as Bracara Augusta, Braga has a long
history as a religious and commercial centre. In the 12th
century, it became the seat of Portugal’s archbishops, and
the country’s religious capital. The city lost some influence
in the 19th century, but today continues as the ecclesiastical
capital of Portugal and main city of the Minho.
Not surprisingly, Braga hosts some of Portugal’s most The west façade of the Sé, with its
colourful religious festivals. Semana Santa (Holy Week) is 15th-century galilee, or porch
celebrated with dramatic, solemn processions, while the lively
festival of São João in June sees dancing, fairs and fireworks. Museu de Arte Sacra, which
contains a rich collection of
ecclesiastical treasures as well as
Exploring Braga statues, carvings and azulejo tiles.
The compact historic Several chapels can be seen
centre borders Praça da in the courtyard and cloister.
República, the central The Capela dos Reis houses
square. Within the square the tombs of the founders,
stands the 14th-century Henry of Burgundy and his
Torre de Menagem, all wife Dona Teresa, as well as
that remains of the city’s the preserved body of the
original fortifications. 14th-century archbishop
A short walk leads to Rua Dom Lourenço Vicente.
do Souto, a narrow From Rua de São João you
pedestrian street lined can admire a statue of Nossa
with elegant shops and Senhora do Leite (Our Lady of
cafés, including the Café the Milk), symbol of the city
Brasileira, furnished in The blue-tiled façade of the Palácio do Raio, also of Braga, sheltered under an
19th-century salon style. known as the Casa do Mexicano ornate Gothic canopy.
Towards the end of the
road stands the impressive Sé, Since then the building has E Antigo Paço Episcopal
the cathedral of Braga. Other seen many changes, including Praça Municipal. Closed to the public.
churches worth a visit include the addition of a graceful galilee Near the Sé is the former
the small, 16th-century (porch) in the late 15th century. archbishop’s palace. The façades
Capela dos Coimbras, and the Outstanding features include date from the 14th, 17th and
17th-century Baroque Santa the chapel to the right, just 18th centuries, but a major
Cruz. Many of the finest man- inside the west door, housing fire destroyed the interior in
sions in Braga also date from the ornate 15th-century tomb the 18th century. The palace is
the Baroque period, such as of the first-born son of João I now used as a private library
the Palácio do Raio and the (see pp50–51), Dom Afonso, who and archives. Beside it are
Câmara Municipal (the town died as a child. The cathedral the immaculate gardens of the
hall). Both buildings are also houses the Treasury or Jardim de Santa Bárbara.
attributed to the 18th-century
architect André Soares da Silva.
Just north of the city centre is
the town mercado (market),
where you can buy regional
produce and delicacies.
R Sé
Rua Dom Paio Mendes. Open daily.
Museu de Arte Sacra: Tel 253 263 317.
Open daily. &
Braga’s cathedral was begun in
the 11th century, when Henry
of Burgundy decided to build
on the site of an older church,
destroyed in the 6th century. The Jardim de Santa Bárbara by the walls of the Antigo Paço Episcopal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp392–3 and pp408–9
MINHO 283
Bus Station
1 Mercado
N . M AT
DE
NO OS
PRAÇA DO
3 Câmara Municipal
ON
COMÉRCIO
Mercado IRA
RE
RUA PER
4 Sé D O F E RR
AZ
BRI
EL
A GA STRO
RU E CA
5 Antigo Paço Episcopal U D PR. A.
R
A HERCULANO
6 Jardim de Santa Bárbara
DO C
O
A R VA
LHAL
M
RUA
R UA DO C AR
7 Torre de Menagem
DE S
Mosteiro de Tibães, AND ANTO
São Frutuoso de Montélios PRAÇA RÉ
ÃO S
S R.
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Câmara CENT IDA
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Municipal Torre de
PRAÇA DA
RUA DIOGO Menagem REPÚBLICA Bom Jesus
DE SOUSA
RUA DO S do Monte,
OUTO AV E N I D A C E N
Train Station T R A L Sameiro
Capela dos
S
CO
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BARCELOS
Coimbras
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Sé S. Igreja dos
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Santa Cruz
R U A D. F R
Capela de
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0 metres 250
DADE
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0 yards 250 RUA
O
LARGO SÃO R . D O S FA L C Õ E S
Capela de LARGO TIAGO
P IM E N
Palácio
do Raio
Entrance Portico
At the foot of the giant stairway stands a
portico bearing the coat of arms of Dom
Rodrigo de Moura Teles, the archbishop
who commissioned the work.
KEY
1 Chapel of Darkness
2 Chapel of the Kiss of Judas
3 Chapel of the Last Supper
4 Chapel of Christ’s Agony
in the Garden
5 Chapel of the Flagellation
6 Chapel of the Road to Calvary
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp392–3 and pp408–9
MINHO 285
Escadaria
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C1. * 60,000. n
Praça de Santiago (253 421 221).
( Fri. _ 1st weekend in Aug:
Festas Gualterianas.
∑ guimaraesturismo.com
Transport
£ Avenida Dom João IV. @
Alameda Mariano Felgueiras.
Introducing Southern
Portugal 290–295
Alentejo 296–319
Algarve 320–337
290 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Mora
Zambujeira Santa-Clara-
do Mar a-Velha
Almodôvar
Monchique Cachopo
ALGARVE
Aljezur (See pp320–337) Alte
São Bras
Silves de Alportel
Portimão
Vila do Lagoa
Bispo Loulé
Lagos
Albufeira Estoi
Lagos, principal town of the western Faro
Sagres
Algarve, is flanked by inviting cove
beaches, such as Praia de Dona Ana,
which make it easy to understand why Faro (see pp332–4)
sunseekers flock here (see pp326–7).
The crystal-clear waters off Praia dos Três Castelos, near Portimão
INTRODUCING SOUTHERN PORTUGAL 291
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Castelo
de Vide
Marvão
Crato
Portalegre
Alter do
Chão
Moura
Alcoutim
Aljezur
Praia de
Arrifana
Alfambras
68
N2
N1
Bordeira
20
A22 IC4
Carrapateira
Bensafrim
Algoz
Pedralva Portimão
Odiáxere Lagoa
Alvor Ferreiras
68
Lagos N125
Castelejo N125
Budens Albufeira
Vila do Luz
Bispo Figueira Burgau
2 Castelejo -
This long, deserted beach of soft
Sagres sand can only be reached via a dirt
road by bicycle, car or jeep. Its
remote location, however, ensures 3 Beliche - D
peace and quiet (see p325). Despite being at the “world’s
end”, Beliche is sheltered by Cabo
de São Vicente. The sandy beach
is backed by fascinating caves
and rock formations (see p326).
4 Martinhal
0
Martinhal is a wide, sheltered
expanse of sand east of Sagres.
The area is popular for water
sports of all kinds, and the beach
boasts an aquatic school with
parasailing, water-skiing and
windsurfing (see p326).
5 Dona Ana
q Ilha de Tavira
@0L
-L
A tiny cove on the way to In summer, boats go from
Ponta da Piedade, Dona Quatro Águas to the sandy
Ana is one of the prettiest Ilha de Tavira. The beach
beaches in the Algarve, facing the coast has calm
although crowded during water, whereas the beaches
the summer. A boat trip on the ocean side, that run
to see nearby caves and the length of the island,
grottoes is highly recom offer good swimming and
mended (see p327). windsurfing (see p336).
6 Meia Praia
@-0LD 8 Carvoeiro
A vast expanse of sand stretching for @m0-
4 km (2 miles), the sheltered Meia Carvoeiro is a fishing
Praia is the longest beach in the village with a diminutive
Algarve. Easily reached by road, there cove. The whole area is
is also a boat trip from Lagos during great for cove beaches,
the summer months (see p327). and a boat trip or a walk
along the cliff will take
7 Praia da Rocha @ 0 L D you to spectacular sandy
Framed by ochre cliffs and lapped by beaches with excellent
calm water, this spacious beach is swimming and
justifiably famous – and crowded in snorkelling.
high season. Water sports can be
practised here in a gentler sea than
the extreme southwest and visitors
Azinhal
are well catered for (see p328).
IC2
7
Castro Marim
Vila Real de
2 Santo António
A2
IP1 5
N12
N270 Conceição
Cacela
Loulé Velha
Boliqueime Santo Tavira
IP1 Pereiro
A2
2
Santa Bárbara Estêvão
de Nexe
Estói Luz
Vilamoura Almancil
w Monte Gordo
N2
Moncarapacho
Quarteira São João da Pechão Ilha de @0-L
Venda Fuseta Tavira The warm water and balmy climate,
Quinta do Lago Olhão
combined with vast stretches of clean
Ilha de
Armona sand backed by pine woods, make
Faro
Monte Gordo a very popular resort.
Praia de Ilha de
Faro Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
9 Senhora da Rocha
@0-L
Senhora da Rocha,
named after a small
chapel on its eastern
promontory, is actually
three small, sheltered 0 São Rafael
beaches. Typical of @m0-L
this part of the coast, The small, popular beach of São Rafael
these halfmoons of offers soft sand and shallow water, with
sand tucked below spectacular caves and eroded rock for
eroded yellow cliffs mations to explore. For those without
are reached via a car, it is a steep walk down from the
steep steps. bus stop on the main road (see p329).
294 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Ensopado de Borrego uses Cataplana is named for the Morgado de Figo is a rich,
cheap cuts of lamb marinated pan. Shellfish, squid, prawns and sticky cake of dried figs,
with cumin and cloves and fish are steamed with white almonds, sugar, chocolate,
simmered until very tender. wine, garlic and herbs. cinnamon and aniseed.
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL 297
ALENTEJO
The sun-baked Alentejo occupies nearly one-third of
Portugal, stretching all the way from the Tagus south to
the Algarve. Its vast rolling plains, golden with wheat or
silver with olive trees, its whitewashed villages, megaliths
and castles, and irresistible Wine Route, are the Alentejo’s great
attractions for visitors.
Stone circles, dolmens and other relics flourishing. Since 1986, Portugal’s
of Stone Age life pepper the Alentejan plain, membership of the European Union has
particularly around Évora, a historical gem increased the rate of investment and
of a city at the region’s geographical centre. modernization, although the region is still
Évora, like Beja, Elvas, Alter do Chão and sparsely populated, supporting only ten
other towns, was founded by the Romans, per cent of the population. Land tenure
who valued this land beyond the Tagus – has always been a concern here, and
além Tejo – for its wheatfields. Introducing communism has a strong appeal – the
irrigation systems to overcome the soil’s Alentejans were solid supporters of
aridity, they established enormous farms the 1974 revolution (see p61).
to grow grain for the empire. Worked by Many towns and villages, especially
peasant farmers, these huge estates, or in the south, carry echoes of the long
latifúndios, still exist. Moorish occupation in their cube-like
Grain apart, the vast plains yield cork white houses, while to the north and east
from the bark of cork oaks and olives – the plains give way to a rocky terrain of
Elvas is prized for these as well as its fortified villages and scrubland grazed
candied greengages. Vineyards across the by flocks of sheep. Portuguese from other
region have long produced powerful regions mock the amiable alentejanos for
wines (see pp32–3), and some areas are their slow ways, but they are widely
classified at the Denominação de Origem admired for their singing, handicrafts,
Controlada (DOC) level. Wine tourism is gastronomy and wines.
Houses with red-tiled roofs in the historic town of Castelo de Vide (see p301)
Marvão castle, dating from the 13th century
298 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Tours
ve
r Arraiolos Grândola
la
s
Lagoa de
dol
dos Barros
SANTIAGO
de
DO CACÉM
Abela
r ra
SINES
Se
Ri
São
oS
Domingos Aljustrel
ado
Porto
Covo Messejana
Cercal
VILA NOVA
DE MILFONTES
Santa Luzia
São Luís
Rio
Almograve
Mi
Ourique
ra
ZAMBUJEIRA Odemira
DO MAR Gomes
Aires
São Teotónio Santa Clara-
a-Velha
The fertile farmland and orchards of the northern Alentejo, seen Lagos
from Estremoz Albufeira
Castelo
Branco Ri
be Getting Around
ira Montalvão
Abrantes
de Exploration by road is a more
N
ejo feasible option than by rail,
isa
oT Nisa
although trains run between the
Ri CASTELO
Gavião DE VIDE major towns of Évora, Beja and
Alpalhao MARVÃO some of the smaller centres. The
SE bus network links most towns and
Cáceres villages, but time and patience
RR
Flor da Rosa Fortios
A
are needed to cope with the
CRATO
DE
Ponte de Sor PORTALEGRE
logistics. For motorists, the tolled
SÃ
da M A6 (E90) provides fast access from
O
ALTER Urra A
r
Se
Vila Formosa M
DO CHÃO
da
ED
de
P O R TA L E G R E
ra
eir
bei
R
Ri
ÉVORA
São Matias Terena
ÉVORA
MEGALITHS Montoito
Serpa’s Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe, startlingly
TOUR São
Manços MONSARAZ white in the hot sun
Reguengos
de Monsaraz Mourão
VIANA DO
ALENTEJO
Oriola
Portel Amieira Barragem Granja
d’Alqueva Key
Alvito
Póvoa Amareleja Motorway
VIDIGUEIRA Alqueva
Major road
Cuba Barrancos Minor road
MOURA
Pedrógão Sáfara Scenic route
Se
Beringel rr
a Major railway
da Sobral da Adiça
Baleizão Ad Minor railway
BEJA Pias iç
a
National border
Santa SERPA
a
Regional border
adian
Vitória
Trindade Vila Nova
de São Bento
Albernoa Santa Iria
Rio G u
Ribeira
de T
a
e
ç
an
BEJA
rg
Ch
es
o
Ri
do V
Entradas
Pa r
ale
qu
e N uda
Castro
do
Verde Mina de
at
G
a
Espírito
Santo
Almodôvar
Faro
A sea of wheat surrounding a farmhouse near Moura
300 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
1 Serra de São
Mamede
Road map D4. @ to Portalegre.
n Portalegre.
Strategically positioned on a
low plateau of the Serra de São
Mamede, Portalegre is of Roman
origin. At the end of the 13th cen-
tury, King Dinis (see pp48–9) built
a castle on the city’s highest point.
Textile, tapestry and silk
industries brought prosperity
in the 16th and 17th centuries,
reflected in the Renaissance and
Baroque mansions found along
Rua 19 de Junho, the main street
of the old town. Close to Praça
da República is the only tapestry
factory still in use, the Manufactura
Looking out over the plain from the heights of Marvão’s castle de Tapeçaria de Portalegre.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ALENTEJO 301
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ALENTEJO 303
Ground floor
The library is
contained in
several rooms and
includes precious early
works collected by King
Manuel II in exile (see p59).
Formal Gardens
The Jardim da Duquesa and the Jardim do
Bosque are partly enclosed by palace walls,
but can be seen from the dining-room
windows. Their geometric formality reflects
the palace’s architectural style. Entrance
ALENTEJO 305
q Redondo
Road map D5. * 4,000. @ n Praça
da República (266 909 100). ( 1st
Sun of month (antiques); 2nd Thu of
month (general).
Environs
The Convento de São Paulo
in the Serra de Ossa, 10 km
(6 miles) north, was built in
1376; Catherine of Bragança
stayed here on her return home
in 1692 after the death of her
husband, King Charles II of
England. It is now a luxury
Alandroal, surrounded by groves of cork oaks hotel (see p393), but retains
its wonderful 16th- to
0 Alandroal the castle walls contains beauti- 18th-century azulejos.
Road map D5. * 2,500. @
ful azulejos reputed to be the
n Praça da República (268 440 work of Policarpo de Oliveira
045). ( Wed. Bernardes (1695–1778). w Estremoz
Road map D5. * 9,000. @
The low-lying town of Alandroal, Environs n Rossio Marquês de Pombal
wrapped tidily around its castle Terena, 10 km (6 miles) south (268 339 227). ( Sat.
ruins, was built by the Knights of Alandroal, is well known for
of Avis, who settled here from its pottery. The 14th-century A key stronghold in the War of
1220. Little remains inside, but a sanctuary of Nossa Senhora de Restoration (see p54) and then
sur viving inscription shows it Boa Nova has frescoes covering in the War of the Two Brothers
was completed in 1298. The its walls and ceiling; dating from (see p58), Estremoz looks out
Igreja Matriz within its walls 1706, these depict saints and from its hilltop over groves
dates from the 16th century. Portuguese kings. For access ask of gnarled olive trees.
The Misericórdia church near at the house opposite the church. The medieval upper town,
set within stout ramparts, is
dominated by a 13th-century
Marble: Alentejo’s White Gold marble keep, rising to 27 m
Portugal is the world’s second largest exporter of marble, and even (89 ft). This is the Torre das
Italy, the biggest producer, buys Portugal’s quality stone. Around 90 Três Coroas, the Tower of the
per cent – over 500,000 tonnes a year – is quarried around Estremoz. Three Crowns, recalling the
The marble from Estremoz and nearby Borba and Vila Viçosa is white or kings (Sancho II, Afonso III and
pink, while the quarries Dinis) in whose reigns it was
at Viana do Alentejo built. The adjoining castle and
yield green stone. Marble palace complex, built for
has been used for con- Dona Isabel, is now a pousada
struction since Roman
(see p393). The saintly Isabel (see
times and in towns such
p49), wife of King Dinis, died
as Évora (see pp308–11)
and Vila Viçosa (see here in 1336 and the Capela
pp304–5), palaces and da Rainha Santa dedicated to
humble doorsteps alike her is lined with azulejos
gleam with the stone recording her life.
Quarrymen near Estremoz, working on elephantine often referred to as Today the bustling weekly
blocks of prized marble “white gold”. market in the Rossio, the main
square in the lower town, is a
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ALENTEJO 307
r Arraiolos
Road map D5. * 3,500. @
n Praça do Município (266 490 254).
( 1st Sat of month.
y Street-by-Street: Évora
Rising out of the Alentejan plain is the enchanting . Roman Temple
walled city of Évora. The town rose to prominence Popularly believed to
under the Romans and flourished throughout the have been dedicated
to the goddess Diana,
Middle Ages as a centre of learning and the arts.
this temple was
It was a popular residence of Portuguese kings, erected in the 2nd or
but fell out of favour after Spain’s annexation of 3rd century AD. It was
Portugal in 1580. Its influence waned further when used as armoury,
theatre and
the Jesuit university closed in the 18th century.
slaughterhouse
Students once again throng Évora’s streets, joined before being
by visitors who come to discover its many rescued in
historical sites and enjoy the atmosphere of the 1870.
old town. The city’s historic legacy was officially
recognized in 1986, when UNESCO declared Évora
a World Heritage Site.
AS
RU
The Fundação AD
RU
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Eugénio de Almeida is
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The shops along this A
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handicrafts, from S BR
painted chairs to T U
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carved cork. DE
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RU
Key
Suggested route
PRAÇA DO
GIRALDO
Tourist
information
RU
A
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EP
Ú
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LI
C
A
To railway and
bus stations
0 metres 50
Praça do Giraldo
The fountain in Évora’s main square was erected in 1571. 0 yards 50
Its marble predecessor received the first water delivered by
the town’s aqueduct (see p311).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ÉVORA 309
L. DO
A
M
VILA FLOR
The city’s museum (see p310) includes
E
D
A D
R
EIR
(1470–1536), is distinguished by a
A
. Sé
Évora’s cathedral (see p310),
L. DE MIGUEL which took over 50 years to
DE PORTUGAL complete, has the look of a
fortress about it. The portal
is flanked by a pair of
unmatched towers.
IA
Ó DA
IA
D
R
IC O
D
R
ER RG
Ó
IS A
IC
L
R
E
M
IS
M
A
D
A
U Largo do Marquês de Marialva
R
P Praça do Giraldo
Évora’s bustling main square may
be named after Geraldo Sem
Favour (the Fearless), an outlaw
who ousted the Moors for King
Afonso Henriques in 1165.
Azulejos at the Old University, depicting Aristotle teaching Alexander
P Paço de São Miguel
R Sé E Museu de Évora Tel 266 748 300. Open 9am–12:30pm
Largo do Marquês de Marialva. Largo do Conde de Vila Flor. Tel 266 & 2:30–5:30 Tue–Sun. Closed public
Tel 266 759 330. Open daily (museum 702 604. Open 2–6pm Tue, 10am– hols. 8 book in advance.
Tue–Sun). & 6pm Wed–Sun. Closed some public This grand 15th-century museum
Begun in 1186 and consecrated hols. & was the residence of the influential
in 1204, the granite cathedral of This 16th-century palace, once Counts of Basto and, later, the
Santa Maria was completed by the residence of governors and Eugénio de Almeida family.
1250. Romanesque melds with bishops, is now the regional
Gothic in this castle-like museum. Évora’s history is all P Palácio dos Duques
cathedral whose towers, one here, from Roman columns de Cadaval
turreted, one topped by a blue to modern sculpture in local Tel 266 704 714. Open Tue–Sun. &
cone, give the façade an odd marble. Notable upstairs are The Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval,
asymmetry. Flanking the portal The Life of the Virgin, a 16th- on the site of the city’s former
between them are superb century Flemish polyptych castle, dates from the 14th century.
14th-century sculpted apostles. in 13 panels and works by the The façade is noted for its unusual
The 18th-century high altar and Portuguese painter the Master pentagonal tower. Inside, rooms
marble chancel are by J F of Sardoal, especially his Two display medieval armour, illumi-
Ludwig, the architect of the Bishop-Saints and nated 14th-century manuscripts
monastery at Mafra (see a Nativity. and 18th-century religious art.
pp56–7). A Renaissance
portal in the north transept R São Francisco
is by Nicolau Chanterène. Praça 1° de Maio. Tel 266 704 521.
In the cloisters, which date Open daily. & to Capela dos Ossos.
from about 1325, statues The main attraction of this 15th-
of the Evangelists stand century church is its Capela dos
watch at each corner. Ossos, a gruesome chapel of
A glittering treasury bones created in the 17th century
houses sacred art. The from the remains of 5,000 monks.
most intriguing exhibit Two leathery corpses, one of a
here is a 13th-century ivory child, dangle from a chain, and a
Virgin whose body opens mordant reminder at the entrance
out to become a triptych reads: Nós ossos que aqui estamos,
of tiny carved scenes: her Carved figures of the apostles decorating the pelos vossos esperamos (“We bones
life in nine episodes. Gothic entrance to the Sé that are here await yours”).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ÉVORA 311
+ Walls
The fortifications that have
protected Évora down the
centuries form two incomplete
concentric circles. The inner
ring, of which only fragments
are discernible, is Roman, from
perhaps as early as the 1st
century AD, with Moorish and
medieval additions – the two
stubby towers that give the
Largo da Porta de Moura its
name mark an Arab gate.
In the 14th century, new walls
were built to encompass the
growing town. Completed
under Fernando I, these had 40
Largo da Porta de Moura, with its striking Renaissance fountain towers and ten gates, including
the Porta de Alconchel, which
P Largo da Porta de Moura E Fundação Eugénio still faces the Lisbon road.
The western entrance to this de Almeida When João IV was defiantly
square is guarded by the vestiges Páteo de São Miguel. Tel 266 748 300. declared king in 1640 (see p54),
of a Moorish gateway. Both the Carriage Museum: Open Tue–Sun. major fortifications were erected
domed Casa Soure and the Closed public hols. on this outer ring in anticipation
double arches of the belvedere This avant-garde modern of Spanish attack, and it is these
on Casa Cordovil at the opposite exhibition space plays host to 17th-century walls which are most
end, show the Arab influence on local and national artists and the evident today. The fear of attack
architecture in Évora. The central occasional international name, was not unfounded, and the walls
fountain, looking like some futur- such as Marcel Duchamp. It also withstood much battering from
istic orb, surprisingly dates back promotes the performing arts, the besieging Spanish in 1663.
to 1556. Just south of the square, staging regular concerts and reci-
the portal of the Convento do tals. The building provides access
Carmo features the knot sym- to the Carriage Museum, and
bol, denoting it once belonged tours to the nearby Cartuxa
to the Braganças (see p305). winery can be booked here.
u Megaliths Tour
Archaeologists date the pedras talhas, hewn stones, near
Évora to between 4000 and 2000 BC. Their symbolism remains
mysterious. Dolmens are thought to be where Neolithic
communities buried their dead, together with their possessions
– more than 130 have been found in the region. Tall phallic
menhirs jutting from olive groves immediately suggest fertility
rites, while cromlechs – carved stones standing in regulated
groups – probably had religious significance. This tour
includes examples of each; more can be found further east,
near Monsaraz and Reguengos de Monsaraz, and the museum
in Castelo de Vide (see p301) has finds related to the area. 2 Menhir of Almendres
Standing 2.5 m (8 ft) tall,
3 Cromlech of Almendres this solitary stone is located
This oval, made up of 95 away from the cromlech,
ellipitical stones, is believed in an olive grove behind
to have been a temple a row of tall storage bins.
dedicated to a solar cult. The
route to the cromlech is
signposted from the N114.
1 Évora
In the undulating farmland
6 Grutas do Escoural Montemor-o-Novo Arraiolos around the historic city of
Discovered in 1963, these Évora (see pp308–11) at least
caves contain paintings 150 megalith sites have
about 15–20,000 been found.
years old.
São Matias
• Giesteira
Montemor- Guadalupe
o-Novo Senhora da
Boa Fé
Alcàçovas
4 Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Alcàçovas
This, the largest dolmen in
Portugal, has an entrance passage
14 m (46 ft) long leading to a
chamber built of enormous stones.
It is off the beaten track; the route
from Valverde leads across farmland.
Key
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 80 km (50 miles).
Tour route
Access to sites: The only
5 Dolmen-chapel of Other roads guarded site is Escoural. The
São Brissos
caves are closed at lunchtime,
Beyond the hamlet of
on Mondays and at some other
Brissos, this tiny chapel
times. Access roads to the sites
has been created from
0 kilometres 5 are often no more than tracks,
an anta or dolmen.
and signposting can be erratic.
Another is to be found 0 miles 3
(See pp444–5.)
at Pavia (see p307).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ALENTEJO 313
o Viana do Alentejo
Road map D6. * 3,500. @ n Praça
da República (266 930 012). ( 2nd &
last Thu of month.
s Serpa
Road map D6. * 6,000. @ n Rua
dos Cavalos 19 (284 544 727). ( last
Tue of month.
Environs
To the south about 10 km
(6 miles) is the unspoiled
beach of Almograve, backed
The calm, sunny face of the sandy coast near Vila Nova de Milfontes by impressive cliffs.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp393–4 and pp409–11
ALENTEJO 319
j Zambujeira do
Mar
Road map C7. * 1,000. @
n Rua da Escola (283 961 144).
∑ sudoeste.meo.pt
k Mértola
Road map D6. * 1,200. @ n Rua da
Igreja 1 (286 610 109). Open Jul–Sep:
9:30am–12:30pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun; Mértola’s unusual Moorish-style church, high above the River Guadiana
Sep–Jun: 9am–12:30 & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sun. & ( 1st Thu of month. Moors. Roman artifacts can be walls was formerly a mosque,
seen at the Museu de Mértola with a five-nave layout, four
Pretty, whitewashed Mértola is beneath the exhibition halls. horseshoe arches and a mihrab
of historical interest as this small The post-Roman period is on or prayer niche.
town is a vila museu, a museum display in the Núcleo Visigótico Overlooking the town is a
site. It has various discoveries and in an early Christian basilica ruined hilltop castle, with its
from different eras exhibited in whose ruins adjoin the Roman keep of 1292, offering lovely
núcleos, or areas where a lots of road to Beja (see p317). The views of the river valley. The
treasures from a particular influence bestowed by several Alcácova do Castelo, the
period can be found. The tourist centuries of Moorish domination excavated ruins of a Moorish
office has details of each núcleo. is seen in the museum’s Núcleo village and earlier Roman cistern
Mértola dates back to the Islâmico which houses one of are within the grounds.
Phoenicians, who created a the country’s best collections
thriving inland port here, later of Portuguese Islamic art. The Environs
enjoyed by the Romans and the Igreja Matriz below the Moorish The copper mines at Minas de São
Domingos, 16 km (10 miles) to
the east, were the main employer
The Versatility of Cork in the area from 1858 to 1965,
Groves of evergreen cork oak (Quercus suber) provide the Alentejo when the vein was exhausted.
with welcome shade and a thriving industry. It was Dom Pérignon, An English company ran the
the wine-making monk, who in mine under the harshest con-
the 17th century revived the use ditions, with miners’ families living
of cork as a tasteless, odourless in one windowless room. The
seal for wine. Portugal, the village’s population is about 700,
world’s largest cork producer, has and the ghost-town atmosphere
almost 7,000 sq km (2,700 sq is relieved only by a reservoir
miles) under cultivation and
and surrounding lush greenery.
turns out some 30 million corks a
Around Mértola, 600 sq km
day. In rural areas, this versatile
bark is fashioned into waterproof, (230 sq miles) of the wild Guadiana
heatproof food containers and valley is a Parque Natural. Bird-
these decorated boxes are a watching and nature tour com-
traditional craft of the Alentejo. panies include Birdwatch in
Harvesting cork is a skilled Alentejo (www.bird watching
task. Mature trees, stripped in alentejo.com) and Birding in
summer every ten years or so, Portugal (www.birdingin
reveal a raw red undercoat until The glowing red of a stripped tree in an portugal.com), who can arrange
their new bark grows. Alentejan cork grove trips to spot species like the
rare Spanish imperial eagle.
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL 321
ALGARVE
Enclosed by ranges of hills to the north, the Algarve has a
climate, culture and scenery very different from the rest of
Portugal. Its stunning coastline and year-round mild
weather, maintained by warm sea and air currents from
nearby North Africa, make it one of the most popular
holiday destinations in southern Europe.
The Algarve’s fertile soil and strategic The earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7) had
headlands and rivers have attracted visitors its epicentre just south of Lagos, then the
since the time of the Phoenicians. Five region’s capital. Virtually all the towns and
centuries of Arab rule, from AD 711, left a villages were destroyed or badly damaged,
legacy that is still visible in the region’s which explains why very few buildings in
architecture, lattice chimneys, azulejos, the region predate this period.
orange groves and almond trees. Place Since the 1960s, when Faro airport was
names beginning with Al are also of Moorish opened, international tourism has replaced
origin; Al-Gharb (“the West”) denoted agriculture and fishing as the region’s main
the western edge of the Islamic empire. industry. A few stretches of the south-
When the Algarve was reclaimed by the western seashore are now cluttered with
Christians in 1249, the Portuguese rulers high-rise complexes catering for the yearly
designated themselves kings “of Portugal influx of tourists. However, the whole
and of the Algarves”, emphasizing the western seaboard exposed to the Atlantic
region’s separateness from the rest of and the lagoons east of Faro have been
the country. It was the Algarve, however, less affected by development. Trips inland,
that shot Portugal to prominence in the to the pretty whitewashed village of Alte
15th century, when Henry the Navigator or the border town of Alcoutim in the
(see p53) is said to have set up a school of east, provide a welcome reminder that,
navigation at Sagres, and launched the age in places, the Algarve’s rural way of life
of exploration from these southern shores. continues virtually uninterrupted.
Praia de Odemira
Odeceixe
Odeceixe
Beja
R i b e i ra
de
Carriagem
Se
Arrifana Casais
Ri
Alfambras Monchique
São Bartolomeu
de Messines
Barragem
do Arade Portela
Barragem da de Messines
Bravura
o
Vidigal Porto de
Cá
Bordeira
do Lagos
de
a
rr o
Carrapateira Se haç SILVES
in Tunes
Esp Bensafrim
Algoz
Pedralva PORTIMÃO
Odiáxere Lagoa
ALVOR Ferragudo Alcantarilha Ferreiras
Praia de
Castelejo Praia da
Budens LAGOS Rocha
VILA DO Luz Carvoeiro Senhora
da Rocha
ALBUFEIRA
BISPO Figueira Burgau
0 kilometres 10
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE 5
0 miles
SAGRES
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Brightly painted fishing boats in the harbour at Sagres
Sights at a Glance
1 Aljezur t Loulé
2 Serra de Monchique y Estoi
3 Monchique u Faro pp332–34
4 Vila do Bispo i Olhão
5 Cabo de São Vicente o Parque Natural da
6 Sagres Ria Formosa
7 Lagos p Tavira
8 Alvor a Cacela Velha
9 Portimão s Vila Real Santo António
0 Silves d Castro Marim
q Albufeira f Alcoutim
w Alte
e Vilamoura
r Almancil Mértola
Afonso
One of the delightful sandy coves near Albufeira Vicente
ão Giões
a sc ALCOUTIM
d eV
eira Pereiro
Rib
Martim Longo
Beja Barrada Balurco da Baixo
Ri
pana Guerreiros do Rio
da Fou
o Gua di a na
eira Vaqueiro
Rib
Corte João Furnazinhas
Ameixial
Marques Foz de Odeleite
Cachopo
eite
a de Odel Odeleite
Se
r ra Ribeir
do
Aguas Ca Azinhal
lde Peralva
Frias i rã o
Feiteira
Cortelha Sevilla
Benafim Água dos Fusos
Javali
ALTE Barranco Velho CASTRO MARIM
Estorninhos
Querença
Aldeia da Tôr VILA REAL DE
Palheirinhos SANTO ANTÓNIO
FARO
Alportel
São Brás Santa Monte
de Alportel Catarina Conceição Gordo
LOULÉ Cabanas CACELA
Boliqueime
Santa Bárbara Pereiro Santo TAVIRA VELHA
de Nexe Estêvão
Luz A
VILAMOURA ALMANCIL ESTÓI OS
Moncarapacho
O RM
Ilha de
Quarteira São João da Pechão F Tavira
Venda Fuseta
A
OLHÃO RI
Quinta do Lago Ilha de
D A Armona
FARO A L
NA TUR
Praia de P A R Q U E Ilha de
Faro Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
Getting Around
The tolled A22 (IP1) runs from Lagos to Spain
and has relieved the N125, which can become
congested in summer. Roads branch off to
beaches, coastal towns and inland villages.
A frequent but slow rail service connects
the main towns, but stations are sometimes
far from the centre. Reliable buses link
coastal resorts and inland towns, though Whitewashed house and lattice-work
progress can be slow. chimney in Cacela Velha
324 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Environs
A delightful spa, 6 km (4 miles)
south, Caldas de Monchique is
set in the foothills of the Serra in
peaceful wooded surroundings.
The hot, curative waters have
attracted the ailing since Roman
times, and even though João II
died soon after taking them in
1495, their reputation has
remained undiminished. In the
summer, people come to be
treated for skin, digestive and
rheumatic complaints. As well Promontory of Cabo de São Vicente jutting into the Atlantic Ocean
as the spring water, bars here
offer local firewater, medronho. Castelejo, 5 km (3 miles) to the p53) was also reputed to have
The shady main square has west, is accessible by a dirt road lived here, but, if so, all traces
a large, attractive handicraft that winds up from the village of his Vila do Infante have dis
centre and there are some over moorland. The intrepid can appeared. A number of important
pretty walks in the woods. turn off this track for the 6km naval battles have taken place
(4mile) journey to Torre de off the Cape, including the
Aspa, an obelisk at 156 m defeat of a Spanish fleet in 1797
4 Vila do Bispo (512 ft) marking the spot for by the British admirals Jervis
spectacular views over the and Nelson.
Road map 7C. * 7,000. @ n
ocean. The road is quite rough, Since 1988 the coast from Sines
Sagres (282 624 873). ( 1st Thu of
month. Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe: so it is advisable to walk the last in the north to Burgau in the east
Open May–Sep: 10:30am–1pm (from 2 km (1 mile). The 14thcentury has been made a nature reserve,
9am Apr–Oct), 2–6:30pm Tue–Sun (till Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe providing important nesting
5:30pm Apr–Oct). & near Raposeira is where Henry grounds for Bonelli’s eagle, kestrel,
the Navigator prayed. white stork, heron and numer
The grand name of “The Bishop’s ous other bird species. There is
Town” today refers to a peaceful also a colony of sea otters.
village, rather remote in feel,
5 Cabo de São
which makes the crowds of cen
tral Algarve seem very far away. Vicente
It acquired its name in the 17th Road map 7C. @ to Sagres then taxi.
century when it was donated n Sagres (282 624 873).
to the see of Faro. The town’s
parish church, Nossa Senhora In the Middle Ages, this
da Conceição, has a delightful windblown cape at the extreme
interior decorated with 18th southwest of Europe was
century azulejos from the floor believed to be the end of the Flowered Narcissus, native to the
up to the painted ceiling, and world. The Romans called it the Algarve region
an altarpiece dating from 1715. Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred
Promontory), and today, with its Flowers of the
Environs 60m (200ft) cliffs fronting the Western Algarve
The beaches in the area are Atlantic, it still presents a most The remote headlands of Cabo
remote and unspoiled. Praia do aweinspiring aspect. The ocean de São Vicente and Sagres are
waves have created long, sandy renowned in botanical circles
beaches and carved deep caves for their flowers, which put
into the cliffs. on a strikingly colourful
Since the 15th century, Cabo and aromatic display from
de São Vicente has been an February to May. The climate,
important reference point for underlying rock and compar
shipping, and its present light ative isolation of these
house has a 95km (60mile) headlands have given an
range, said to be the most intriguing, stunted appearance
powerful in Europe. For even to the local vegetation. There
is a great array of different
longer it has had religious
species, including cistuses,
associations, and its name arises squills, an endemic sea pink,
from the legend that the body junipers, lavenders, narcissi,
of St Vincent was washed milkvetches and many other
Baroque altarpiece inside Nossa Senhora da ashore here in the 4th century. magnificent plants.
Conceição, Vila do Bispo Prince Henry the Navigator (see
326 SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
R Santo António
Rua General Alberto Silveira: entry
via the Museu Municipal Dr José
Formosinho. Tel 282 762 301. Open
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
This 18th-century church is
an Algarvian jewel. The lower
section of the walls is covered
in blue and white azulejos, the
rest in carved, gilded and
painted woodwork, an inspira-
tional and riotous example of
Baroque carving. Cherubs,
beasts, flowers and scenes of
hunting and fishing, surround
eight panel paintings of mira-
cles performed by St Antony.
A statue of the saint stands
above the altar, surrounded by Ochre sandstone rocks on the sheltered beach of Praia de Dona Ana, Lagos
gilded pillars and arches adorned
with angels and vines. St Antony facsimile of the 1504 town reservoir. It is peaceful and
was patron and honorary colonel- charter. The neighbouring Santo especially picturesque seen
in-chief of the local regiment António church forms part of from a viewpoint high up.
and, according to tradition, this the museum.
statue accompanied it on various
campaigns during the Peninsular Environs 8 Alvor
War (1808–11) (see p58). The promontory, called the Road map 7C. * 5,000. £ @ n
Near the altar is the grave of Ponta da Piedade, sheltering Rua Dr Afonso Costa 51 (282 457 540).
Hugh Beatty, an Irish colonel the bay of Lagos to the south
who commanded the Lagos has a series of wonderful rock This pretty fishing town of white
regiment during the 17th- formations, caves and calm, houses is popular with holiday-
century wars with Spain. He transparent waters. Accessible makers, but in low season retains
died here in 1709 and his motto by road and sea, and most spec- its charm. It was a Roman port,
“Non vi sed arte” (Not with force tacular at sunset, this area is and later the Moorish town of
but with skill) adorns the tomb. not to be missed. The prettiest Al-Bur. By the 16th century it
beach is Praia de Dona Ana, was again a prosperous town,
E Museu Municipal Dr José 25 minutes’ walk from the but it suffered much damage in
Formosinho centre of town, but Praia do the earthquake of 1755. The
Rua General Alberto Silveira. Camilo, further round to the tip town was rebuilt with stone
Tel 282 762 301. Open 10am–5:30pm of the promontory, may be less from the Moorish castle, so little
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & crowded. The long Meia Praia of that fortress remains.
This eclectic ethnographic stretches for 4 km (2 miles) east At the top of the town the
museum displays local handi- of Lagos; a regular bus service 16th-century church, Divino
crafts and artifacts, traditional leaves from the centre of town. Salvador, has a Manueline portal
costumes and an impressive A 10-km (6-mile) drive due carved with foliage, lions and
Roman mosaic, the Opus north of Lagos leads to the dragons. The outermost arch is
Vermiculatum. Also look for the huge Barragem de Bravura an octopus tentacle.
The castle and town of Silves rising above a fertile valley of orange groves
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp394–5 and pp411–13
ALGARVE 329
R Sé
Largo da Sé. Open 9am–1pm &
2–6pm Mon–Fri; 9am–1pm Sat.
Closed public hols. &
Built on the site of a mosque,
the cathedral dates from the
13th century. In the chancel, light
falls from lovely double windows
with stained-glass borders, on a
jasper statue of Nossa Senhora
da Conceição, believed to date
from the 14th century.
Opposite the Sé, the 16th-
century Misericórdia church has
a Manueline side door and a
Renaissance altarpiece.
E Museu Arqueológico
Rua das Portas de Loulé 14. Tel 282
444 832. Open Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm; Colourful fishing boats on the beach at Albufeira
Oct–Jun: 9am–5:30pm daily. &
Set downhill from the cathedral, with North Africa. The Knights of Algarve. The approach from
the Municipal Museum was Santiago took it in the 13th the east along the N124 is the
opened in 1990. Its exhibits century, but the consequent most picturesque, with sweeping
include Stone and Iron Age tools, loss of trade almost ruined it. In views of rolling hills. The focus
sculpted Roman capitals, surgical 1833 it was set on fire by sup- of this steep, white village is
instruments from the 5th–7th porters of Dom Miguel during the 16th-century Nossa Senhora
centuries, a 13th-century the War of the Two Brothers da Assunção, which has a
anchor and items of 18th- (see p58). Manueline doorway and
century ceramics. The Museu Arqueo baptismal fonts, and a fine
museum is built lógico houses a gilded altarpiece celebrating
around a large Arab captivating collection the Assumption. The chapel of
well-cistern that was uncov- of Stone Age, Roman and São Sebastião has beautiful, rare
ered in 1980. The staircase Moorish artifacts, with the 16th-century Sevillian azulejos.
built into the structure Islamic-era silo as its high- About ten minutes’ walk from
descends 15 m (49 ft) to light. The church of São the church, and clearly marked,
the bottom of the well. Sebastião, on Praça Miguel is the River Alte, overhung with
Bombarda, has a Manueline trees, and a water source known
Environs doorway. Rua 5 de Outubro as the Fonte Grande. This leafy
One kilometre (half a mile) leads through a tunnel setting is ideal for picnicking. On
east of Silves is the Cruz Silves’s Cruz to the beach, east of the steep slopes, about 700 m
de Portugal, an ornate de Portugal which is the Praia dos (half a mile) from the village is a
16th-century granite Barcos where the mill (converted into a restaurant)
cross. This may have been given fishermen ply their trade. From and a 5-m (16-ft) high waterfall,
to the city by Manuel I, when João Praia de São Rafael, 2 km (1 mile) Queda do Vigário.
II’s body was transferred from west of Albufeira, to Praia da Oura
Silves Cathedral to Batalha (see due east, the area is punctuated
pp188–9). The faces are carved by small sandy coves set
with the Crucifixion and the between eroded ochre rocks.
Descent from the Cross.
E Museu Arqueológico
Praca da Republica 1. Tel 289 599 508.
q Albufeira Open Jul–Aug: 9:30am–12:30pm &
1:30–5:30pm Tue, Sat & Sun, 9:30am–
Road map 7C. * 31,000. £ @ 5:30pm Wed–Fri, 2–10pm Thur & Fri.
n Rua 5 de Outubro (289 585 279).
( 1st & 3rd Tue of month.
e Vilamoura
Road map C7. * 9,000. @ n Praça
do Mar, Quarteira (289 389 209).
u Faro
Capital of the Algarve since 1756, Faro has been reborn
several times over the centuries – following invasion, fire
and earthquake. A prehistoric fishing village, it became an
important port and administrative centre under the Romans,
who named it Ossonoba. Captured from the Moors in 1249
by Afonso III, Faro prospered until 1596, when it was sacked
and burned by the Earl of Essex, favourite of Elizabeth I of
England. A new city rose from the ashes, only to be badly
damaged in the earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7). Although
vestiges of the ancient city walls are still standing, the finest
buildings date mainly from the late 18th and 19th centuries.
Orange trees in front of the 18th-century bishops’ palace along the Largo da Sé
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp394–5 and pp411–13
ALGARVE 333
R U A A B O I M A S C E N S ÃO
ESTOI
LARGO DO
Airport LA
IA CAMPO DA RU
RUA ATA FREIRA
A
5 km (3 miles) DA GE
SEB DE S. UA
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RU
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Igreja
A IST L
D E ME LO
dos Judeus
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EM
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7 Sé CASTELO LARGO DE SÃO
FRANCISCO
8 Museu Municipal
9 São Francisco 0 metres 250
0 Museu Etnográfico
0 yards 250
s Vila Real de
Santo António
Road map D7. * 10,000. £ @
n Avenida Marginal, Monte Gordo
(281 544 495).
Environs
The town was also a centre
for salt production, and the View from Alcoutim across the Guadiana to Sanlúcar in Spain
Portugal’s
Islands
Introducing Portugal’s
Islands 340–345
Madeira 346–363
The Azores 364–377
340 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
C or vo
vo
Vila do Corvo
Santa Cruz
das Flores
Flo
ores
res
G r a ci o sa
THE AZORES Luz
(See pp364–377)
São Jorge
Velas
F a la l
Calheta
Madalena
Horta
Piedade
P i co
Porto Moniz
MADEIRA
São Jorge (See pp346–363)
Ponta do
Pargo Ponta Madeira
São Vicente Delgada
Porto da Cruz
Curral Caniçal
das Freiras
Machico
Ponta do Sol
Ribeira Camacha
Brava
Funchal
Ilhas
D e se r t a s
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
Terceira
Praia da Vitória
Santa
Barbara Angra do
Heroísmo 0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
S ã o M igue l
Mosteiros Nordeste
Lampranthus spectabilis
is a South African plant Parrot’s beak is a large,
which flowers on the coast striking flower that
between May and July. appears in March
and April.
Pawpaws produce
fruit all year round. The
plant originates from
South America.
Broom flowers are
colourful and popular
with pollinating insects.
The Mid-
Atlantic Ridge
marks the join where
the African, Eurasian and
American plates of the
earth’s crust are being
Faial
pulled apart.
Pico
Volcanic Resources
of the Azores
The dramatic formation of the
Azores has left the islands with
abundant natural resources. Hot
springs, strong building materials
and, eventually, fertile soil, are all
the result of the ongoing volcanic
activity. A wet, temperate climate
gradually breaks down the volcanic
rocks into fertile soils. Older soils
support luxuriant vegetation and These stone cottages on Pico, like Furnas, on São Miguel, is an
are excellent for arable farming, but many on the islands, make use of area of sulphur and hot mud
younger soils, like those found on the plentiful basalt rock as a springs used for bathing and
Pico, support little agriculture yet. durable building material. for medicinal purposes.
i n t r o d u c i n g p o r t u g a l’ s i s l a n d s 345
MADEIRA
Madeira is a green, subtropical paradise of volcanic origin, its soils formed from
lava and ash, completely different in character from the Portuguese mainland.
Blessed with an equable daytime temperature that varies only by a few degrees
either side of 20° C (68° F), the island has an all-year-round appeal.
Madeira is a mere dot in the Atlantic brought in to work the land and create
Ocean, 608 km (378 miles) from Morocco the terraced fields and irrigation channels
and nearly 1,000 km (621 miles) from (levadas) that still cling to the steep
Lisbon. Despite this, Madeira and Porto hillsides to this day.
Santo appear on a Genoese map of 1351. Despite the gradients, Madeirans
They remained unclaimed, however, until make use of every spare patch of land
1418, when João Gonçalves Zarco was today, growing bananas, flowers and
blown out into the Atlantic by violent grapes, although tourism is the main
storms while exploring the coast of Africa. industry. The island’s Laurisilva, or laurel
Zarco found safe harbour in Porto Santo, forest, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
returning on a voyage of discovery Madeira appeals to keen walkers,
sponsored by Henry the Navigator (see plant lovers and sun-seekers, water-
p53). Early in 1420, after a winter on Porto sports enthusiasts, and those looking
Santo, he set sail for the mist-shrouded for a whale- and dolphin-watching
land on the horizon. He found a beautiful, destination. It’s also becoming a
thickly wooded island (madeira means gastronomic hotspot; two Funchal
wood), with abundant fresh water. Within restaurants are Michelin-starred while
seven years the island had attracted a several others are Michelin recom-
pioneer colony and the early settlers mended. Madeira’s greatest export,
exploited the fertile soil and warm wine, is another real draw, with it’s
climate to grow sugar cane. The islanders famous fortified wine taking the name
grew rich on this, and slaves were of the island.
Triangular-shaped houses, typical of the town of Santana on the north coast of Madeira
One of the waterfalls at Vinte e Cinco Fontes (25 Springs), in the west of Madeira
348 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
Exploring Madeira
Funchal is the island’s capital and the only town of any
size. This is where most of the museums and historic
buildings are to be found, as well as the best hotels,
restaurants and shops. Most of Madeira’s agricultural
crops are grown along the sunny, prosperous south
coast. The cooler, wetter north side has fewer settlements
and more cattle. Many parts of the mountainous and
volcanic interior remain wild, and some are accessible
only on foot. Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island,
is a favourite destination for walkers.
Ponta do
be
Pargo Senhora al
n SÃO VICENTE
i ra
do Amparo Fa
iro s
ue do
s
da
seg do
Remal
Pes nta
Lameiros
Ja
osei ra Ginjas
da R 1320m
ne
Mo
Achada
eço Pico Ruivo
C ab
la
Mou ro
Serra de Água
d a s Te
CALHETA CURRAL
DAS FREIRAS
bo do
Lombo
Arco da Calheta
Lom
0 kilometres 5 Jardim
Madalena da Serra
do Mar Lugar
0 miles 3
Candelária da Serra
Ponta do Sol São João
Tabúa
Campanário
RIBEIRA BRAVA Quinta Grande
CÂMARA DE
LOBOS
Getting Around
Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is at Santa
Cruz, 18 km (11 miles) northeast of Funchal. Buses
operate to all corners of the island from Funchal
but are not geared to tourists. Taxis can be used,
but for flexibility car hire is best. From north to
south the island is 22 km (14 miles) wide and
from east to west just 57 km (35 miles) long.
Even so, travelling times are magnified by the
mountainous terrain. To reach the nearby island
of Porto Santo, you can either fly from Santa Cruz
The rooftops of Funchal, with the mountainous or take the ferry from Funchal to Porto de Abrigo
interior of Madeira beyond (near Vila Baleira). (See also pp444–5.)
For keys to symbols see back flap
MADEIRA 349
PORTO SANTO
Ponta Serra de
do Varadouro Farrobo
Fora Ponta
dos Ferreiros
MADEIRA
Tanque
Campo de Cima Ponta da Galé
Vila
Ilhéu Baleira Ilhéu
de Ferro de Cima
Cabeço da Ponta
Zimbralinho Ponta
Ponta
da Calheta
AT L A N T I C
Ilhéu de Baixo OCEAN
ou da Cal
Ponta de
São Jorge
São Jorge
Ponta de Santana
São Pedro
church
The Museu R UA D A S P R E TA S
Municipal
houses an
aquarium and
RUA
is a favourite
with children.
DO
A
EIR
RR
SUR
CA
A DA
RU
DO
RU
A
S.
AV
FR
EN
The Old Blandy Wine
AN
ID
Lodge (see p353)
A
CI
SC
O
(see p354).
A
DA
Key
Suggested route
Yacht Marina
Lined with seafood
restaurants, the yacht
marina on Avenida do Mar
is ideal for an evening stroll.
The sea wall around the Avenida
marina offers good views. do Mar
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
FUNCHAL 351
BE
ÃO
U
LJ
TA
A 0 metres 50
VI
O
D
RA
0 yards 50
A
RU
. Praça do Município
Contrasting black and white
stones pave the attractive
municipal square. On the
northeast side of the square
is the Câmara Municipal.
GA Bus
DE
FÃ N
AL station
DA
ZA
A
RU
RC
O
Rua do Aljube
Alongside the Sé, flower sellers
in traditional costumes offer a
colourful array of exotic flowers.
Y Jardim Botânico
Quinta do Bom Sucesso, Caminho do
Meio. Tel 291 211 200. Open daily.
Closed 25 Dec. &
The Botanical Gardens display
plants from all over the world.
Desert cacti, rainforest orchids
and South African proteas
grow here as well as Madeiran
dragon trees. There are con-
trasting sections: formal areas
of bedding plants, quiet carp
The intricately patterned formal gardens of the Jardim Botânico ponds and wild wooded parts.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
MADEIRA 353
Madeira Wine
In the 16th century, ships stopping at months to a year. The effect is to hurry
Funchal would take on barrels of local up the ageing process: the best wines are
wine. This unfortified Madeira often “cooked” more gently and slowly.
spoiled during the voyage, so shippers The finest Madeirans are heated
started adding spirit to make it better. The by the sun, maturing slowly in
wine now seemed to improve after a long, the attics of the wine lodges.
hot voyage, and quality Madeira began to Most Madeira is made
be sent on round trips as an alternative to from the Tinta Negra Mole
maturing it in Funchal’s lodges. This grape, often blended
expensive method was replaced with the with one of the four
estufa system, still very much in use today. noble varieties
Large volumes of wine are heated to listed
between 30 and 50°C for a period of three below. Making barrels for Madeira, Funchal
E Museu da Baleia
Rua Garcia Moniz 1. Tel 291 961 858.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter
Sun, 24, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
∑ madeirawhalemuseum.org
Environs
The easternmost tip of Madeira,
the Ponta de São Lourenço, is
characterized by dramatic wave-
battered cliffs plunging 180 m
(590 ft) to the Atlantic. Walkers
are attracted by footpaths
which meander from one
clifftop to another, with wild
flowers growing in sheltered
hollows. The treeless landscape
contrasts totally with the island’s
wooded interior.
On the road from Caniçal to
Ponta de São Lourenço, look
out for the signpost to the bay
of Prainha, Madeira’s only
The bell tower of the Igreja Matriz, Machico naturally black sandy beach.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
MADEIRA 357
7 Santana
* 7,700. @ n Rua do Sacristão,
Sítio do Serrado (291 575 162).
E Parque Temático da Madeira Sunrise over the mountains, seen from Pico do Arieiro
Fonte da Pedra. Tel 291 570 410.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm daily places. Far easier is the hillsides cloaked in fragrant
(till 6pm Oct–Mar). & 20-minute walk on the left eucalyptus and bay laurel. At
∑ parquetematicodamadeira.pt (going downhill) signposted around 900 m (2,950 ft), you will
to Balcões (Balconies). This often meet the cloud line and
viewpoint gives panoramic pass for a few minutes through
views across the valley of the swirling mists and possibly rain,
River Ametade to Penha de before emerging into a sunlit
Águia (Eagle Rock), the sheer- landscape of volcanic rocks. At
sided hill that projects from the top, the spectacular view is
Madeira’s northern coast. of clouds in the valleys and
dramatic mountain ridges with
knife-edge peaks. Just visible on
9 Pico do Arieiro a clear day is Pico Ruivo (see
@ to Camacha, then taxi. p360), connected to Pico do
Arieiro by a 10-km (6-mile) path.
From Funchal it is about a On especially clear days you
30-minute drive up the Pico do may be able to see the
Arieiro, Madeira’s third highest neighbouring island of Porto
mountain at 1,810 m (5,938 ft). Santo, some 48 km (30 miles)
Bridge across a levada on the walk from The route leads through steep north of Madeira.
Ribeiro Frio to Balcões
Madeira possesses a unique irrigation system that enables the plentiful The Paúl da Serra (literally “high
rainfall of the north of the island to be distributed to the drier, sunny moorland”) is a large, boggy
south. Rainfall is stored in reservoirs and lakes, or channelled from plateau, 17 km (11 miles) in
natural springs, and fed into length and 6 km (4 miles)
the network of levadas that in width. The plain contrasts
ring the island. These narrow dramatically with the jagged
channels carry water long mountains that characterize
distances to banana groves, the rest of Madeira.
vineyards and market gardens.
Electricity for the north of the
Altogether there are 1,500 km
island is generated here by wind
(932 miles) of canals, some
dating back to the 1500s. turbines. Only gorse and grass
Maintenance paths run grow on the thin soil, and the
alongside the levadas, sponge-like volcanic substrata
providing a network of act as a natural reservoir for
footpaths reaching into rainfall. Water filters through
Levada do Risco, one of many walking remote parts of the island the rock to emerge as springs
routes across Madeira inaccessible by road. which then feed the island’s
levada system.
The dramatic landscape of the São Lourenço peninsula
MADEIRA 361
L e v ad Levada
a No
da
oc 5 25 Fontes
va
R
ha V
do
ermelh
a A 30-minute walk brings
Ra
Lev aç
b
ad al
aN
you to a mossy, fern-hung
ova
do area with a main cascade
d as 25 Rib Ra
Fo eira b and many smaller ones.
da
ntes da
va
Ja
aç
ne
Le
al
la
4 Ribeira da Janela
do Ri
da sc Cross the bridge and
va o
then tackle the steep
Le
Levad
ad
as
uphill climb on
25 Fontes the left.
Leva
Paúl Da da
o
Serra
d
Ris
co
1 Rabaçal
Walkers can leave their vehicles
at a nearby car park or make use
of a shuttle service to reach the 3 Risco Waterfall
starting point, which has a rest At this magnificent spot, a
house with picnic tables and torrent of water cascades
views of the valley. Follow the from the rocky heights down
signposted path down to meet into the green depths of the
the Levada do Risco. Risco valley far below.
Key
Walk route
Road
River
Levada
2 Levada do Risco
The course of the levada, which
leads to the waterfall, is shaded 0 metres 250
by tree heathers draped with 0 yards 250
hair-like lichens.
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
362 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
Environs
The 15th-century chapel at Loreto,
2 km (1 mile) east of Calheta, has
a Manueline portal and geomet-
rically patterned ceiling. Outside
Estreito da Calheta, 3 km (2 miles)
northwest of Calheta, is Lombo
dos Reis. Here the Capela dos
Reis Magos (Chapel of the Three
Kings) has a lively 16th-century
Flemish altar carving of the
The warm, natural rock pools at Porto Moniz Adoration of the Magi.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
MADEIRA 363
o Porto Santo
* 5,000. ~ g n Avenida Dr
Manuel Gregório Pestana Júnior
(291 985 244).
THE AZORES
Far out in the Atlantic, 1,600 km (1,000 miles) west of Portugal’s mainland, the
nine islands of the Azores are known for their spectacular volcanic scenery,
abundant flora and peaceful way of life. Once wild and remote, they are now
a popular destination for travellers who enjoy walking, sailing and getting
away from it all.
Santa Maria was the first island discovered and close links are maintained with
by the Portuguese in 1427. The archipelago both mainland Portugal and the sizeable
was named after the buzzards the early communities of emigrant Azoreans in
explorers saw flying overhead and mistook the United States and Canada. Many
for goshawks (açores). The islands were emigrants return to their native island
settled during the 15th and 16th centuries for the traditional annual festivals, such
by colonists from Portugal and Flanders as the festas of the Holy Spirit, celebrated
who introduced cattle, maize and vines. in the colourful impérios. With few
The Azores have profited from their far- beaches, a capricious, often wet climate
flung position in the Atlantic. Between and no large-scale resorts, the Azores
1580 and 1640, when Portugal came under have escaped mass tourism. Most
Spanish rule (see pp54 –5), the ports of travellers come here to explore the
Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira and Ponta green mountains embroidered with
Delgada on São Miguel prospered from blue hydrangeas, relax in quiet ports
the trade with the New World. In the 19th adorned with cobbled streets and ele-
century the islands were a regular port of gant Baroque churches, and enjoy the
call for American whaling ships. During UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as
the 20th century they have benefited the fajãs of São Jorge. Once a brave new
from their use as stations for transatlantic world of pioneer communities, the
cable companies, meteorological Azores are now an autonomous region
observatories and military air bases. of Portugal and an exotic corner of the
Today the majority of islanders are European Union, where life remains
involved in either dairy farming or fishing, refreshingly civil and unhurried.
Small fishing boats on the quayside at Lajes do Pico on the southern coast of Pico
Lush vegetation around the Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Seven Cities Lagoon)
366 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
Ponta Delgada
Fajã
Grande Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
das Flores da Graciosa
Fajãzinha Praia
FLORES
GRACIOSA
Luz
Lajes
Pico da Velha
495m
Velas
FAIAL Cedros SÃO JORGE
Manadas
Sights at a Glance Cabeço Gordo Calheta
Capelo 1045m
1 São Miguel pp368–9 Horta
Topo
2 Santa Maria Madalena Santo
São Roque do Pico
Antão
3 Terceira Candelária Pico Alto
2350m
4 Graciosa Piedade
São Mateus
5 São Jorge
6 Pico PICO Lajes do Pico
7 Faial
8 Flores
9 Corvo
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Key
Major road
Minor road
Motorway
Scenic route
Summit
Getting Around
São Miguel, Santa Maria, Pico, Faial and Terceira have airports, and
the local airline, Azores Airlines, flies between all the islands. A
THE AZORES
year-round car and ferry service runs between Faial and Pico (www.
atlanticoline.pt). Between April and September, it also connects with
São Jorge to Terceira. Less frequent are sailings between São Miguel
and Santa Maria, Graciosa and Flores. However, a regular operation MADEIRA
exists between Flores and Corvo. All ferry services are subject to the
weather. Bus services on the islands are designed for the locals and
therefore not always practical for tourists. Car hire is more convenient
and available on all islands except Corvo. (See also p447.)
Biscoitos
TERCEIRA
Lagoa Povoação
Ponta
Delgada Vila Franca
do Campo
SÃO MIGUEL
SANTA MARIA
Anjos Santa
Bárbara
Ponta Delgada’s elegant waterfront, São Miguel Vila do Porto
368 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 138,000. n Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada
(296 308 625). _ 5th Sun after
Easter: Santo Cristo dos Milagres
(Ponta Delgada); Festas do
Espìrito Santo (see p372).
∑ visitazores.com
Transport
k 3 km (2 miles) W of Ponta
Delgada. g @ Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada.
Santana
MIRADOURO DE SOSSEGO
Povoaçāo
Lagoa
Água de Pau
Ribeira Quente
0 miles 5
3 Terceira
* 56,000. k 3 km (2 miles) NW of
Praia da Vitória. g Angra do Heroísmo,
Praia da Vitória. @ Avenida 1° de Maio,
Angra do Heroísmo. n Rua Direita
70–74, Angra do Heroísmo (295 213
393) Praia da Vitória Aerogare Civil
das Lajes (295 513 140). _ Festas
do Espírito Santo (see p372); late Jun:
Festas de São João; first week in Aug:
Festas da Praia. ∑ visitazores.com
Maria II gave the town its name Around the Island takes its name from the rubble
for the bravery (heroísmo) it demon Terceira is a large, ovalshaped of biscuitlike lava spread along
strated during the struggles for island with a gentle green interior the shore. Exhilarating swimming
Liberalism in the early 19th of forested hills and farmland. Its pools, popular in the summer,
century (see pp58–9). Despite centre bears witness to its have been created amongst the
the severe damage caused volcanic origins: the rocks. The area is also known for
by an earthquake in 1980, Caldeira de Guilherme its wine, and the land is covered
the city’s wealthy past is Moniz is an eroded crater in a chessboard of stonewalled
reflected in the pretty 3 km (2 miles) wide and pens (curraletas) built to shelter
streets lined with one of the largest in the vines. The friendly Museu do
monumental churches Azores. Nearby, the Vinho dos Biscoitos explains
and balconied houses. Algar do Carvão is a the simple production methods
The most spectacular dramatic volcanic blast used to produce the rich verdelho
view of the harbour is hole, thick with dripping wine that was once exported to
from Monte Brasil, a moss where visitors can the Russian court, and provides
volcanic crater on the tour an enormous an opportunity to taste and
western side of the bay. subterranean cave. West purchase today’s vintages.
Beside this popular pic of here, the Furna do
nic spot stands the fort, Wooden John Enxofre are hot } Algar do Carvão
Fortaleza de São João the Baptist, steaming fumaroles Off R52. Tel 295 212 992. Open Apr–
Baptista, built during Museu de Angra where the heavy sul May: 3–5:30pm daily; Jun & Sep: 2:30–
Spain’s annexation of phur vapours crystallize 5:45pm daily; Jul & Aug: 2–6pm daily;
Portugal (see pp54–5) as a treasure into brightly coloured formations. Oct–Mar: 3–5pm Mon, Wed & Fri &
store, and still in military use. A Two viewpoints overlooking E Museu do Vinho
second rewarding viewpoint is the island can be reached by Canada do Caldeiro 3. Tel 965 667 324.
from the Alto da Memória at the car: in the west, a road bordered Open May–Sep: 10–11am, 1–5:30pm
south end of Rua São João de with blue hydrangeas winds up Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 1:30–4pm Tue–Sat.
Deus, from where the twin through the Serra de
towers of the 16thcentury Sé Santa Bárbara to a vast
(restored after a fire in 1983) are lonely crater at 1,022 m
easily seen. A path leads down (3,353 ft), while the
into the Jardim Duque da Terceira, eastern Serra do Cume,
the city’s restful public gardens. at 545 m (1,788 ft),
These once formed part of the overlooks the airport and
15thcentury Convento de São Praia da Vitória. This port
Francisco which now houses the has a large bay with a
Museu de Angra do Heroísmo. sandy beach. Its name
The museum’s exhibits reflect pays tribute to a famous
the history of the Azores and victory in 1829 by Liberal
the city and include armour, forces loyal to Pedro IV
maps, paintings and sculptures. over the Absolutists, led
by Miguel, during the
E Museu de Angra do Heroísmo Portuguese Civil War –
Ladeira de São Francisco. Tel 295 240 the socalled War of the
800. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue– Two Brothers. On the
Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. north coast, Biscoitos Patchwork of stone-walled fields in the northeast of
Closed pub hols. 7 (which means “biscuits”) Terceira, near Praia da Vitória
372 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
The distribution of
bread for the Festival of
the Holy Spirit originates
in the donation of food to
the poor introduced by
saintly Queen Isabel (see
p49). On the last day of
celebrations, the seventh
Sunday after Easter, a Holy
Spirit soup is made from
beef and vegetables and
is handed out along with
bread to everyone outside
the local império.
Império with Gothic windows in Praia Flamboyantly decorated império in Simple império in Terra Chã,
da Vitória, Terceira (1941) São Sebastião, Terceira (1918) Terceira (1954)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp414–15
THE AZORES 373
Above the cave, at Furna Maria wide. On its north coast, sheer
Encantada, a natural tunnel leads cliffs drop 480 m (1,575 ft) to the
to the edge of the crater, offering sea. Over the centuries these cliffs
stunning views over the island. have collapsed in places, creating
Treatments using the island’s tongues of land known as fajãs-
geothermal waters are available recognized by UNESCO as
at the coastal resort of Carapacho, Biosphere Reserves. It was on
at the foot of the volcano. these coastal promontories that
the island’s Flemish colonists first
E Museu da Graciosa settled in the mid-15th century.
Traditional ox-drawn cart on the Largo Conde de Simas 17, Santa Cruz. Today many islanders on São
island of Graciosa Tel 295 712 429. Open 9am–12.30pm & Jorge are engaged in the pro-
2–5:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed pub hols. duction of a cured cheese, Queijo
4 Graciosa & de São Jorge. The pace of life is
* 4,500. ~ 2 km (1 mile) W of Santa } Furna do Enxofre leisurely, and most visitors come
Cruz da Graciosa. g Praia de São 2 km (1 mile) E of Luz, follow signs to to enjoy the walking along the
Mateus. n Praça Fontes Pereira de Caldeira. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm paths that climb between the
Melo, Santas Cruz (295 712 888). daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, fajãs. The most popular route is in
_ Festas do Espírito Santo; Aug: 2–5:30pm Sat. & the northeast of the island from
Santo Cristo. ∑ visitazores.com Serra do Topo 10 km (6 miles)
down to Fajã dos Cubres.
Graciosa Island is one of the most Most of the settlements lie
peaceful places in the Azores along the gentler south coast,
and is classified by UNESCO as a including the capital, Velas, and
Biosphere reserve. Only 12.5 km Calheta, where the Museu
(8 miles) long, most of its low- Francisco de Lacerda displays
lying land is given over to farms objects of local history such as
and vineyards where ox- drawn the ornate breads baked for the
carts and ploughs are still in use. Holy Spirit festival, a honey press,
The capital, Santa Cruz da agricultural utensils and religious
Graciosa, on the northern coast, sculptures. West of Calheta, in the
has a simple quayside backed pretty parish of Manadas, the
by rows of stark, two-storey, 18th-century church of Santa
whitewashed houses with Bárbara has an atmospheric
wrought-iron balconies and oval carved and painted interior. In
windows. The expanded Museu Santa Cruz da Graciosa overlooking Urzelina, 2 km (1 mile) further
da Graciosa recalls life on this the island west, the tower of a church
sleepy island with a homely buried by lava in 1808 protrudes
miscellany of toys, sea chests, 5 São Jorge defiantly from the ground. In
kitchenware, wine presses, * 9,000. ~ 7 km (4 miles) E of Velas. the west of the island there is a
furniture and mementos sent g Velas & Calheta. n Rua pleasant forested picnic area at
back by emigrants to North Conselheiro Dr José Pereira 1, Velas Sete Fontes, and on a clear day
America. A building next door (295 412 440). _ 23 Apr: Festa de São the nearby summit of Pico da
houses a whaling boat (see pp374–5). Jorge; Festas do Espírito Santo; Jul: Velha offers superb views of the
The picturesque Monte da Semana Cultural de Velas (Velas). central Azorean islands.
Ajuda that rises behind the town ∑ visitazores.com
is capped by a 16th-century E Museu Francisco de Lacerda
fortified chapel, Nossa Senhora São Jorge is a mountainous Rua José Azevedo da Cunha, Calheta.
da Ajuda, decorated with 18th- island that stretches for 55 km Tel 295 416 323. Open 9am–5.30pm
century tiles. Nearby, a small vigia (34 miles) but is only 8 km (5 miles) Mon–Fri. Closed public hols. &
(whalers’ lookout) faces the sea.
In the southeast lies the island’s
principal sight, Furna do Enxofre,
where visitors can descend
flights of steps into the bowels of
a volcanic crater. At the bottom
is a huge cave with a deep,
sulphurous lake and peep-holes
where bubbling brews of evil
grey liquid can be spied beneath
the rocks. The best time to visit
is late morning when the sun
shines through the small cave
mouth and lights the interior. Dramatic cliffs along the north coast of São Jorge
374 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp414–15
THE AZORES 375
Espaço Talassa
dos Baleeiros, also in Lajes, where has been a revival of viniculture
Rua do Saco, Lajes. Tel 292 672 010.
boats, tackle and whalebone on the island, with the produc-
Boat trips: Apr–Sep. & =
artifacts are displayed. The tion of new reds and whites,
∑ espacotalassa.com
whales were processed at a vast such as the acclaimed Arinto
factory (closed down in 1984) on dos Açores. This gives visitors a E Museu dos Baleeiros
the north side of the island, at São refined alternative to the Rua dos Baleeiros 13, Lajes. Tel 292 679
Roque do Pico. The factory has ubiquitous vinho de cheiro (wine 340. Open May–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
been preserved as a piece of of smell) traditionally drunk by Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9:30am–5pm. &
industrial heritage now housing the Azoreans. Museu da Indústria Baleeira
the Museu da Indústria Baleeira. Rua do Poço, São Roque do Pico.
A coastal road encircles Pico, E Visitor’s Centre
Tel 292 642 096. Open May–Oct:
offering a slow drive that reveals Lajido. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr:
the charm of this island. Minor daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–5pm. Closed public hols.
eruptions have covered parts of 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun. & & (free on Sun).
its landscape with black mole-
hills of lava that the islanders
christened mistérios (mysteries).
The black lava has been used to
build houses and grids of stone
walls that enclose fields or
shelter vines. In some places,
notably around Cachorro on the
north coast, the eroded lava has
formed curious arches in the sea.
The island vineyards are a
UNESCO World Heritage site.
A visitor’s centre explains Pico’s
viniculture, featuring the
famous Verdelho wine. There West coast of Pico with Faial in the distance
Risso’s dolphins have a squat Bottlenose dolphins are Loggerhead turtles, born
head and light grey colouring. the best known. These playful on Florida’s beaches, are
Older ones are often crisscrossed animals love to ride the waves at frequent visitors to the
with white scars. the bow of a moving vessel. warm Azorean waters.
376 P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
Transatlantic yachts moored in the marina at Horta, Faial, with the pointed summit of Pico in the distance
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp414–15
THE AZORES 377
8 Flores
* 3,800. ~ 1km (half a mile) N of
Santa Cruz. g Lajes. @ Centro de
Saúde, Santa Cruz. n Rua Dr Armas
da Silveira 1, Santa Cruz (292 592 369).
_ Festas do Espírito Santo (see p372);
24–26 Jun: Festas de São João (hols:
am). ∑ visitazores.com
WHERE TO STAY
Luxury five-star hotels, and many four- Porto, a boutique hotel in Lisbon or a
star properties, in Portugal often include luxurious all inclusive resort in Funchal,
spas and multi-swimming pools, notable Portugal has a wonderfully eclectic range
restaurants (some of which are Michelin- of options. Advance booking is essential
starred) and are usually furnished with and most rooms are cheaper outside
high tech digital gadgetry. In essence, high season. The hotels listed on pages
choosing a place to stay is as much about 386–95 have been selected from every
a lifestyle choice as it is finding a room price category and represent the best
for the night. Whether it’s a chic B&B in value in each area.
Gradings
The Portuguese tourist
authority rates hotels with one
to five stars, five being the top
rating. A one-star hotel is
known as a pensaõ, which in
turn is rated in one of four
categories: albergaria being
the top one, followed by First
to Third categories. Apart-
hotels are also rated from one
to five stars. These ratings are
based on a fixed set of criteria
that covers most aspects of
comfort. They do not,
however, take into account
more subjective factors such
as view, atmosphere or the View from the Tivoli Palácio de Seteais, a luxury hotel in Sintra (see p388)
professionalism of the staff.
It is important to remember extras. It is sometimes possible Algarve and around the Estoril
that hotels and pensões are to bargain for a better rate, coast is mass-booked by tour
rated separately from top to especially outside the high operators. For Madeira, Lisbon
bottom. In other words, a one- season. As a rule, the cost of and Porto, it is best to book
or two-star hotel will always a single room is around 60 to ahead regardless of the season,
have a lower level of comfort – 75 per cent of the cost of a as these are popular tourist
and lower prices – than an double room. cities. Nearly all establishments
albergaria or even a first- Tourist areas, such as the have a website that accomm-
category pensão. The grading Algarve and Estoril coasts, odation can be booked
system is quite strict, and all Madeira and the Azores, can through, but most receptionists
rated establishments should be expensive. However, prices speak English so it is also
have a sign by the entrance drop substantially outside the possible to book by phone.
showing their rating. peak summer months. Like many Pousadas can be booked
European cities, many business- through Pestana or via the
oriented hotels in Lisbon and Pousadas de Portugal website.
Prices Porto charge the same rates The Portuguese tourist
In Portugal, establishments are throughout the year. authority, Turismo de Portugal,
free to decide their own prices, publishes online a compre-
but all tariffs must be clearly hensive list of accommodation
displayed at the reception and Bookings options rated by the authority,
in the rooms. The cost of the It is advisable to reserve in complete with contact details.
room usually includes all taxes advance for all tourist areas, but A number of these establish-
and a continental breakfast. particularly in high season. Much ments can be booked via the
Other meals are charged as of the accommodation in the Visit Portugal website.
Elegantly furnished room in Belmond Reid’s Palace in Funchal, Madeira (see p395)
382 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Children
Children are welcome pretty
much anywhere in Portugal, and
families are well catered for.
Some hotels give children under
eight years of age a 50 per cent
discount on accommodation
and meals.
Travellers with
Disabilities
Hotels with facilities for the
disabled are listed by the Turismo
de Portugal office, which also
produces a leaflet with useful
information. Camp sites and
youth hostels that provide
special facilities are listed by Entrance to the beautiful Casa da Pérgola, Cascais (see p388)
the relevant organizations and
in an online guide published the best facilities in stunning remote settings, while Pensão /
by the Instituto Nacional Para surroundings. Boutique B&B options are affordable, often
a Reabilitação. properties are high-end and providing a hearty breakfast.
Accessible Portugal offers a independently run establish- Value and self-catering options
range of specialized tours for ments with personable touches. are self-explanatory.
disabled travellers, as well as Similarly, hotels listed as Throughout the listings, some
equipment rental and advice. character offer a unique stay in establishments are highlighted
quirky or unusual surroundings. as DK Choice – these offer
Recommended Hotels Historic lodgings, often something particularly special,
The hotels listed by area on pousadas, include restored castles, such as a beautiful location, a
pages 386–95 reflect the main convents, mansions and palaces building full of character, eco-
types of accommodation in and promise a picturesque stay. friendly credentials, outstanding
Portugal. Luxury options reflect Rural retreats include inns or service and amenities or a
hotels with flawless service and cottages set in picturesque and combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Pousadas Sana Hotels Budget Travellers with
∑ sanahotels.com Accommodation Disabilities
Pestana
Tel 218 442 001. Tivoli Hotels Airbnb Accessible Portugal
∑ pestana.com Tel 218 507 708. ∑ airbnb Tel 211 338 693.
∑ accessibleportugal.com
Pousadas de Portugal ∑ tivolihotels.com Hostelling
Tel 218 442 001. International Instituto Nacional
∑ pousadas.pt Booking ∑ hihostels.com/ Para a Reabilitação
Conde de Valbom
Chain Hotels Turismo de Portugal Pousadas de 63, 1069–178 Lisbon.
Rua Ivone Silva, Lote 6, Juventude Tel 215 952 770.
Belmond Tel 707 233 233.
∑ belmond.com 1050-124 Lisbon. Tel 211
140 200. ∑ turismode
∑ pousadas National Tourist
Best Western juventude.pt Agencies
Tel 0845 776 7676 (UK). portugal.pt
Tel 800 839 361 (Portugal). Camping and Associação de
Visit Portugal
∑ bestwestern.pt Caravanning Turismo dos Açores
∑ visitportugal.com Avenida Infante Dom
Choice Hotels Camping Portugal Henrique 55, Ponta
Tel 800 277 277. Rural ∑ campingportugal. Delgada, 9500–150 São
∑ choicehotels.eu Accommodation org Miguel. Tel 296 288 082.
Ibis ∑ visitazores.com
Orbitur
∑ ibishotel.com TURIHAB
Avenida da Boavista Direcção Regional de
Praça de República,
Le Meridien 1681-3°, Turismo da Madeira
∑ starwoodhotels.
4990-062 Ponte de Lima. 4100-132 Porto. Avenida Arriaga 18, 9004-
com/lemeridien/index. Tel 258 741 672. Tel 226 061 360. 519 Funchal. Tel 291 211
html ∑ turihab.pt ∑ orbitur.com 900. ∑ visitmadeira.pt
384 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Figueira Coimbra
Pousada do Castelo de da Foz
Óbidos, in the walled town Condeixa-a-Nova
of Óbidos, is situated in a
beautifully restored palace
inside the 15thcentury castle
Leiria
keep. The pousada combines
a medieval atmosphere with Nazaré Ourém
all modern comforts and a
Alcobaça
highly recommended
restaurant (see p389). Peniche Óbidos
Lourinhã Santarém
Torrão
Grândola
Santiago
Sines do Cacém
Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Pousada de Sagres
occupies a spectacular
clifftop position in the
Santa-Clara-
most southwesterly town of a-Velha
Europe, Sagres. The terrace Aljezur ALGARVE
restaurant of this purpose Portimão
built pousada has
magnificent views over the Albufeira
Sagres
Atlantic Ocean (see p394).
W H E R E TO S TAY 385
Pousada Mosteiro
Guimarães, housed in
a medieval monastery
near the city of
Guimarães, is one of
Portugal’s most
impressive and historic
pousadas (see p392).
Alvito Moura
Beja
Serpa
Pousada de Beja is located
ALENTEJO in the heart of the old
Castro Roman town of Beja at the
Verde Mértola
centre of the sun-baked
Almodôvar plains of the southern
Alentejo. The building
Odeleite incorporates parts of a
Alte
former Franciscan convent,
Estoi Tavira dating back to the 13th
century. It was opened as a
Faro pousada in 1994 (see p393).
386 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
impressive city views, this hotel Price Guide
Lisbon oozes 19th-century charm. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Alcântara Florescente €€ inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Pestana Palace Hotel €€€ Pensão / B&B Map 7 A2 € up to €60
Historic Map 2 F3 Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 99, €€ €60–€150
€€€ over €150
Rua Jau 54, 1300-314 1150-266
Tel 213 615 600 Tel 213 426 609
∑ pestana.com ∑ residencialflorescente.com Britania €€€
Housed in a 19th-century Located in the heart of downtown Historic Map 5 C5
palace with a modern wing, Lisbon’s theatre and fine-dining Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17,
this hotel features lavish rooms district, a floral-themed decor 1150-278
and suites. runs throughout this hotel. There Tel 213 155 016
is a gourmet shop and a restau- ∑ heritage.pt
Alfama rant on site. Indulge in 1940s glamour at
The Keep €€ this original Art Deco hotel
Pensão / B&B Map 7 C3 Metrópole €€ with large and stylish rooms.
Costa do Castelo 74, 1100-179 Historic Map 7 B3
Tel 218 854 070 Praça Dom Pedro IV 30, 1100-200 InterContinental
∑ facebook.com/thekeeplisbon Tel 213 219 030 Lisbon €€€
This homely pensão has a rooftop ∑ almeidahotels.pt Luxury Map 5 B4
turret and a garden terrace with The Metrópole has elegant rooms Rua Castilho 149, 1099-034
great views of the city. decorated with original 1920s Art Tel 213 818 700
deco furnishings. Some rooms ∑ intercontinental.com/lisbon
Solar do Castelo €€€ have a balcony overlooking the The chic, spacious rooms
Historic Map 7 C3 attractive adjoining plaza. and suites have contemporary
Rua das Cozinhas 2, 1100-181 decor. There is a fine-dining
Tel 218 806 050 NH Collection restaurant and a fitness centre.
∑ solardocastelo.com Lisboa Liberdade €€
A hotel with contemporary decor Boutique Map 4 F1
inside an 18th-century mansion Avenida da Liberdade 180B, 1250-146 DK Choice
within the Castelo de São Jorge. Tel 213 514 060 Internacional Design
∑ nh-hotels.pt Hotel €€€
A rooftop pool and terrace Boutique Map 7 B3
Baixa and Avenida feature at this minimalist hotel, Rua da Betesga 3, 1100-090
Shiado Hostel € situated on a tree-lined avenue, Tel 213 240 990
Value Map 7 A4 with cafés and designer shops. ∑ idesignhotel.com
Rua Anchieta 5, 3rd Floor, 1200-023 Each floor of this luxury hotel
Tel 213 429 227 VIP Executive is based around a different
∑ shiadohostel.com Éden Aparthotel €€ theme: urban chic, Zen
A hostel with colourful rooms, Self-catering Map 7 A2 philosophy and pop or tribal
shared kitchen and bathrooms, Praça dos Restauradores 24, culture. Guests choose a
and a buffet breakfast. 1250-187 room to suit their personality
Tel 213 216 600 and requirements. Special
Alegria €€ ∑ viphotels.com facilities include a choice of
Pensão / B&B Map 4 F1 Modern studios and apartments pillows and the option of a
Praça da Alegria 12, 1250-004 are housed in this 1930s Art butler service.
Tel 213 220 670 Deco building with a large
∑ alegrianet.com rooftop pool.
Family-run residencial that
offers cheerful rooms with large Altis Grand Hotel €€€
windows and fresh flowers. Luxury Map 4 F1
Rua Castilho 11, 1269-072
Avani Avenida Tel 213 106 000
Liberdade Lisbon Hotel €€ ∑ altishotels.com
Luxury Map 4 F1 Five-star opulence at this stylish
Rua J César Machado 7–9, 1250-135 hotel with soundproof rooms
Tel 213 591 001 includes a heated indoor pool.
∑ tivolihotels.com Prime location in central Lisbon.
Guests find both luxury and style
at this family-friendly hotel. The Avenida Palace €€€
garden has a pool. Luxury Map 7 B3
Rua 1 de Dezembro 123, 1200-359
Ever Lisboa City Center Hotel €€ Tel 213 218 100
Historic Map 5 C5 ∑ hotelavenidapalace.pt
Avenida da Liberdade 189, 1250-141 A luxurious, romantic hotel full
Tel 213 522 618 of old-fashioned charm and all
∑ everlisboahotel.com modern comforts. The impressive
With an ornate staircase, murals, rooms are elegantly furnished The stylish lobby of the modernist
and a restaurant offering in a classic style. Britania hotel
W H E R E TO S TAY 387
DK Choice
ÓBIDOS: Casa d’Óbidos €€
Historic Map B4
Quinta de São José, 2510-135
Tel 262 950 924
∑ casadobidos.com
This 19th-century manor
Sun loungers in the pretty garden at the Hotel Lusitano, Golegã house features a range of
rooms, apartments and
SINTRA: Tivoli Palácio CONSTÂNCIA: Quinta de cottages with traditional
de Seteais €€€ Santa Bárbara €€ country-style decor. Guests
Historic Map B5 Historic Map C4 can mingle while enjoying
Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, Constância, 2250-092 meals around a communal
2710-517 Tel 249 739 214 dining table. Explore the lovely
Tel 219 233 200 ∑ quinta-santabarbara.com garden with fruit trees and
∑ tivolihotels.com This converted manor house has hammocks, snuggle by the
This opulent, romantic hotel has warm and spacious rustic rooms. fireplace or relax on the terrace.
magnificent 18th-century archi- It offers beautiful gardens, a rural Gracious Portuguese host.
tecture and furnishings. There is landscape and a swimming pool
a stylish restaurant, a bar, and a with a panoramic setting.
wellness centre and spa within ÓBIDOS: Pousada Castelo €€€
the premises. FÁTIMA: Dom Gonçalo Hotel €€ Historic Map B4
Value Map C4 Paço Real, 2510-999
Rua Jacinto Marto 100, 2495-450 Tel 262 955 080
Tel 249 539 330 ∑ pousadas.pt
Estremadura and ∑ hoteldg.com The rooms in this converted
Ribatejo A four-star boutique hotel with
modern rooms, set in pretty,
15th-century castle presiding
over the walled city feature four-
BALEAL: Casa das Marés 2 €€ manicured gardens. The hotel poster beds and chandeliers.
Pensão / B&B Map B4 provides free passes to a wellness
Rua Raúl Brandão, Praia de Baleal, and spa centre. ÓBIDOS: Praia D’El Rey
Peniche, 2520-009 Marriott €€€
Tel 262 769 255 FÁTIMA: Steyler Fátima Hotel €€ Luxury Map B4
∑ casadasmares2.com Value Map C4 Avenida Dona Inês de Castro 1,
Set on a spit of land connected to Praça Luís Kondor 33, 2495-409 2510-451
the mainland at specific times of Tel 249 533 043 Tel 262 905 100
the day, this family-run B&B offers ∑ steylerfatimahotel.com ∑ praia-del-rey.com
stunning views and cozy interiors. Ideal for families, this hotel is This five-star luxury resort
close to the shrine, making it boasts an 18-hole golf course
BARRAGEM DO CASTELO popular with pilgrims. It has and an acclaimed spa. Rooms are
DE BODE: Estalagem bright rooms, a children’s club, spacious and service is excellent.
Lago Azul €€ and a restaurant.
Rural Map C4 OURÉM: Pousada Ourém €€
Ferreira do Zêzere, 2240-132 GOLEGÃ: Hotel Lusitano €€ Historic Map C4
Tel 249 361 445 Character Map C4 Largo João Manso, Castelos,
∑ estalagemlagoazul.com Rua Gil Vicente 4, 2150-193 2490-481
In a stunning lakefront setting, Tel 249 979 170 Tel 249 540 930
this hotel has comfortable rooms, ∑ hotellusitano.com ∑ pousadas.pt
some with balconies. The in-house The stylish rooms here feature Consisting of a cluster of restored
restaurant serves traditional canopied beds. A historic façade medieval houses, this family-
Portuguese cuisine. with modern interiors, and friendly pousada has a pool, sun
a fantastic spa. terrace and all modern comforts.
CALDAS DA RAINHA: Sana
Silver Coast Hotel €€ LEIRIA: Eurosol Residence €€ PENICHE: Casa do Castelo €€
Character Map B4 Self-catering Map C4 Historic Map B4
Avenida Dom Manuel Figueira Freire Rua Comissão da Iniciativa 13, Estrada Nacional 114, Number 16,
da Câmara, 2500-184 2410-098 Atouguia da Baleia, 2525-023
Tel 262 000 600 Tel 244 860 460 Tel 262 750 647
∑ silvercoast.sanahotels.com ∑ eurosol.pt ∑ casacastelo.com
A Neo-Classical building with a A complex of apartments and This 17th-century manor house
stylish modern interior. Excellent studios, with a sunny terrace, has traditional furnishings. a
bar, restaurant and café on site. outdoor pool and health club. pretty garden and a pool.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 380–83
390 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Alentejo
BEJA: Bejense €
Rural Map D6
Rua Capitão João Francisco de Sousa
57, 7800-451
Tel 284 311 570
∑ hotelbejense.com
This elegantly decorated hotel
has a cheerful floral theme,
azulejo tiles and wall paintings. Nineteenth-century furnishings in the Herdade da Retorta, Serpa
For more information on types of hotels see page 380–83
394 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants recommended
on pages 398–414 have been
selected on the basis of their
popularity, quality and value for
The terrace with wonderful ocean views at Riso, Funchal (see p414) money. For each area, a range of
establishments catering to differ
Vegetarians Paying the Bill ent tastes – from traditional,
Vegetarians will not eat as It is common practice to add a homecooked recipes to
well as fish lovers in Portugal, 5–10 per cent tip to bills if you Michelinstarred gourmet
although local cheeses and are satisfied with the service. restaurants – has been included.
breads are excellent. In Lisbon Note that not all restaurants Portugal’s rich culinary heritage
and along the Algarve, vege accept credit cards. is celebrated throughout the
tarians will benefit from ethnic country by restaurants that uphold
restaurants. Chefs will usually ageold cooking techniques to
be happy to provide something Children prepare food from recipes
meatless, though this will The Portuguese are very fond of handed down from generation
probably be a simple omelette children, and most restaurants to generation. Categorized on
or a salad. will serve half or children’s menus as traditional Portuguese
portions of dishes on the menu. cuisine, this type of gastronomy
is complemented by creative
Wine and Drinks chefs who still insist on locally
It would be a shame to visit Smoking sourced ingredients, but cook
Portugal without sampling Smoking is banned from all rest using more stylized and contem
its two most famous fortified aurants in Portugal including porary methods to present
wines: port (see pp258–9) and cafés, though on rare occasions modern Portuguese cuisine. In
Madeira (see p355). Irrespective a separate room is provided for major cities and tourist destina
of the location, a bottle or smokers. Most bars have also tions, a variety of other cuisines
jug of house wine is a perfectly imposed the ban. The law is is also available, including
nice option to wash down a sometimes flouted in rural vegetarian options, seafood
meal. Otherwise, choose one locations. Look for a blue or red and international food.
of Portugal’s many native sign near the entrance; blue The restaurants that are
wines (see pp32–3) from the means that smoking is allowed. highlighted as DK Choice have
wine list. Sagres and Super been chosen for one or more
Bock are good beers, and the exceptional feature. This could
bottled spring water is also Coffee be the impeccable service,
recommended. This comes Coffee is widely drunk in Portugal memorable views, romantic
either com gás (sparkling) or and served in many forms. The atmosphere or celebrated chefs.
sem gás (still).
Restaurante 33A €€
Traditional Portuguese Map 5 C5
Rua Alexandre Herculano 33A,
1250-008
Tel 213 546 079 Closed Sat lunch;
Sun
A restaurant with an interior of
dark wooden beams and a pretty,
shaded garden. The waiters wear
smart, formal uniforms, but the
ambience is relaxed. There is an
excellent wine list and desserts
are divine.
The sleek, minimalist interior and neutral colour scheme at Eleven
Ribadouro €€
Cervejaria Map 4 F1 Bairro Alto and Estrela pasta dishes are to be
Rua do Salitre 2–12, 1250-200 Pátio do Bairro € recommended. There is a
Tel 213 549 411 Modern Portuguese Map 4 F2 good wine list too.
It is almost obligatory to try the Rua da Atalaia 35–37, 1200-037
fresh whole fish and seafood Tel 914 293 509 Closed lunch A Confraria €€
priced by the kilo here, although This popular restaurant and bar Modern Portuguese Map 4 D3
extremely good steaks and specializes in home-made burgers, York House Hotel, Rua das Janelas
bacalhau dishes are served too. petiscos (Portuguese tapas), sopa Verdes 32, 1200-691
rica do mar (seafood soup) and Tel 213 962 435 Closed Mon & Tue
Eleven €€€ bacalhau à brás (salt cod with lunch
International Map 5 B4 fried potato and onion). In a charming historic building,
Rua Marquês de Fronteira, A Confraria offers an inventive
Jardim Amália Rodrigues, 1070-310 Real Fábrica € menu that reflects the seasonal
Tel 213 862 211 Closed Sun Cervejaria Map 4 E1 offerings. Excellent wine list.
At one of Lisbon’s top gourmet Rua da Escola Politécnica 275,
restaurants, the elegant 1250-101 Decadente €€
atmosphere and refined decor Tel 213 852 090 Closed Sun Modern Portuguese Map 7 A3
contribute to a unique fine- Seafood and steaks are served Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 81,
dining experience. There are in this former silk factory. Try the 1250-238
tasting, à la carte and lobster- cataplana (fish stew) along with Tel 213 461 381
themed menus. Reserve ahead. a variety of well-prepared Chic decor, a relaxed atmosphere
seafood dishes. and creative twists to traditional
Gambrinus €€€ favourites make this a popular
Seafood Map 7 B2 Bota Alta €€ choice. Fabulous cocktails.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23, Traditional Portuguese Map 7 A3
1150-264 Travessa da Queimada 35–37, Picanha €€
Tel 213 421 466 1200-364 Brazilian Map 4 D4
Wooden furniture, stained-glass Tel 213 427 959 Closed Sat lunch; Sun Rua das Janelas Verdes 96, 1200-692
panels and murals create a The attractive interior here is Tel 213 975 401 Closed Sun dinner;
sophisticated atmosphere at decorated with ceramics and Mon
this well-established favourite. paintings. Try the costeletas This is the perfect place for a top-
The conch shell filled with fumadas à algarvia (smoked ribs quality steak grilled on an open
seafood is a speciality. Algarve-style). fire. Blue-and-white azulejo panels
decorate the walls. Book ahead.
Pabe €€€ Café Buenos Aires €€
International Map 5 C5 Steakhouse Map 7 A3
Rua Duque de Palmela 27A, 1250-097 Calçada Escadinhas do Duque 31B, DK Choice
Tel 213 537 484 1200-155 Taberna da Esperança €€
The mock-Tudor façade, beamed Tel 213 420 739 Modern Portuguese Map 4 E3
ceilings and wooden walls Enjoy succulent and cooked-to- Rua Esperança 112, 1120-114
recreate a traditional English pub perfection Argentinian steaks in a Tel 213 962 744 Closed Mon,
atmosphere. The fare includes cosy, unpretentious setting. As an Tue–Fri lunch
roasted sea bass, breaded squid accompaniment, try the flower This warm and friendly taverna
and charcoal-grilled baby goat. salad. Reserve ahead. Cash only. serves traditional Portuguese
cuisine with a modern twist.
Solar dos Presuntos €€€ Casanostra €€ Expect helpful explanations and
Traditional Portuguese Map 7 A2 Italian Map 7 A3 advice regarding the inventive
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150, Travessa do Poço da Cidade 60, tapas menu. Eclectic furniture
1150-269 1200-334 and fading posters create a
Tel 213 424 253 Closed Sun Tel 213 425 931 Closed Sat lunch relaxed, informal ambience.
A great place to try presunto This friendly restaurant with Perfect for all – solo travellers,
(cured ham), as well as a range of simple, bright decor is popular couples and groups. Reservations
meat and fish dishes. Excellent with locals and visitors alike. All highly recommended. Cash only.
wine list. Reserve in advance. of the delicious, home-made
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 396–7
400 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Kais €€€
Traditional Portuguese /
International Map 4 D4
Cais da Viscondessa, Rua da Cintura,
Santos, 1200-109
Tel 213 932 930 Closed Sun, Mon,
Tue–Sat lunch
Housed in a riverside warehouse
and featuring industrial-chic
decor, Kais is two restaurants in The fashionable Bistro 100 Maneiras, Lisbon
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 401
The dining room at Cozinha Velha, in Queluz, dominated by a large stone chimney
ALMEIRIM: Toucinho €
Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Rua do Timor 2, 2080-103
Tel 243 592 237 Closed Thu
Family-run restaurant best known
for its sopa de pedra (stone soup).
The interiors are decorated with
posters of bullfights. Book ahead.
BATALHA: Vintage €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Largo Mestre Afonso Domingues 6
Tel 244 765 260
Daily specials at this smart restaurant
in the Mestre Afonso Domingues
hotel feature regional favourites,
including the bacalhau à Portuguesa
(Portuguese-style cod). The elegant interior of Tia Alice, in Fátima, offset by rustic touches
ÓBIDOS: Castelo €€€ TOMAR: Calça Perra €€ such as cabrito grelhado com
International Map B4 Traditional Portuguese Map C4 migas de batata (grilled kid with
Paço Real, 2510-999 Rua Pedro Dias 59, 2300-589 creamed potato) and doce de
Tel 262 955 080 Tel 249 321 616 Closed Sun dinner; amêndoa (almond pudding).
Enjoy gourmet cuisine at this Mon (Oct–Apr)
pousada. Specialities include Beautiful gardens surround this AVEIRO: O Bairro €€
monkfish with shrimps and rice charming restaurant. Regional International Map C3
and trouxas de ovos (egg pudding). specialities include lamprey, when Largo do Praca do Peixe 24, 3800-243
in season. Good set lunch menus. Tel 234 338 567 Closed Wed
PENICHE: Estelas €€ The gourmet dishes here, cooked
Seafood Map B4 TOMAR: Chico Elias €€ by a creative chef, include
Rua Arquitecto Paulino Montês 21, Traditional Portuguese Map C4 pumpkin soup with prawn and
2520-294 Rua Principal 70, Algarvias, 2300-302 poultry sausage. Be sure to leave
Tel 262 782 435 Tel 249 311 067 Closed Tue room for the exquisite desserts.
This award-winning restaurant is An interesting menu of traditional
enduringly popular with locals. recipes with imaginative twists AVEIRO: Mercado do Peixe €€
Be sure to try the local Berlenga is offered at this family-run Seafood Map C3
sea bass. It has an extensive wine restaurant – such as feijoada de Largo do Praça do Peixe, 3800-243
list and a homely atmosphere. caracoís (snail and bean stew) and Tel 234 351 303 Closed Sun dinner,
rabbit cooked inside a pumpkin. Mon
PENICHE: Marisqueira Ultra-fresh seafood is served here.
Cortiçais €€ TORRES VEDRAS: O Pátio The fish soup makes a superb starter,
Seafood Map B4 do Faustino € and the caldeiradas are delicious.
Porto d’Areia Sul, 2520-000 Traditional Portuguese Map B5
Tel 262 787 262 Closed Wed Largo do Choupal, 2560-000 BELMONTE: Pousada do
A waterfront restaurant that Tel 261 324 346 Closed Mon Convento de Belmonte €€
serves very fresh seafood. The The menu at this rustic restaurant International Map D3
arroz de marisco (seafood rice) includes bacalhau com grão (cod Serra da Esperança, 6250-073
and the festival de marisco with chickpeas) and porco à Tel 275 910 300
(shellfish platter) are excellent. alentejana (pork, potato and clams). A beautiful restaurant with original
stone features and wonderful
SANTARÉM: Taberna do VILA FRANCA DE XIRA: mountain views. The gourmet
Quinzena € O Forno €€ dishes on the tasting menu or
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 Traditional Portuguese Map C5 à la carte are equally impressive.
Rua Pedro de Santarém 93–95, 2000-223 Rua Doutor Miguel Bombarda 143,
Tel 243 322 804 Closed Sun 2600-000 BUÇACO: Palace Hotel do
Established in 1872, Quinzena Tel 263 282 106 Closed Mon Bussaco €€€
serves great local fare such as This traditional restaurant serves Modern Portuguese Map C3
porco preto (Iberian pork) and ovos plenty of oven-baked dishes, as Mata do Bussaco, 3050-261
mexidos com farinheira (scrambled well as meat and seafood kebabs. Tel 231 937 970
eggs with flour sausage). There is also a good selection of Arched, lace stonework on the
wines and desserts. windows here makes for a
TOMAR: Casa das Ratas / romantic setting in which to enjoy
Casa Matreno € superb cuisine.
Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Rua do Doutor Joaquim Jacinto 7, The Beiras CARAMULO: Montanha €
2300-550 Traditional Portuguese Map C3
Tel 249 315 237 Closed Sun dinner; ALMEIDA: Hotel Fortaleza Rua do Clube, 3475-031
Mon de Almeida €€ Tel 232 862 008 Closed Tue
This is two restaurants with a Traditional Portuguese Map E2 Rustic restaurant in the heart of
shared kitchen and menu. The Rua da Muralha, Almeida, 6350-112 Serra do Caramulo serving superb
polvo à lagareiro (baked octopus) is Tel 271 574 283 mountain fare. The chanfana na
recommended, and the ratatouille On the menu at this elegant hotel púcara (meat stew) and rojões da
is a delicious vegetarian option. restaurant are regional delicacies aldeia (chunks of fried pork belly)
are specialities. Sit outdoors in
the garden during summer.
COIMBRA: Fangas
Mercearia Bar €
Modern Portuguese Map C3
Rua Fernandes Tomás 45–49, 3000-168
Tel 934 093 636
This small, cheerful restaurant,
Refined dining at Castelo, housed in a pousada in Óbidos bar and grocery store specializes
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 405
MEALHADA: Pedro
dos Leitões €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C3
Rua Álvaro Pedro 1, 3050-382
Tel 231 209 950
This is just the place to try leitão
(spit-roasted suckling pig) – it is
outstanding. There are plenty of
non-pork options as well.
MONSANTO: Petiscos
e Granitos €
Traditional Portuguese Map E3
Rua da Pracinha 16, 6060-091
Tel 964 200 974 Closed Mon
Classy, opulent interiors of the restaurant at the Palace Hotel do Bussaco in Buçaco Try the baked octopus with
cheese and the scrambled eggs
in interesting healthy snacks. CONDEIXA-A-NOVA: with asparagus at this restaurant
Perfect for a light lunch; for a Santa Cristina €€ with granite boulders
more substantial meal, order Modern Portuguese Map C3 incorporated into the walls.
several dishes. Rua Francisco de Lemos, 3150-142
Tel 239 944 025 SORTELHA: Dom Sancho I €€
The menu at this sophisticated Traditional Portuguese Map D3
DK Choice restaurant is packed with regional Largo do Corro, 6320-536
COIMBRA: A Taberna €€ delicacies. Try the bacalhau Tel 271 388 267 Closed Sun dinner;
Traditional Portuguese Map C3 assado (roast cod). Mon
Rua dos Combatentes da Grande The open fireplace here is warm
Guerra 86, 3030-181 FIGUEIRA DA FOZ: Paquette € and welcoming, and the menu
Tel 239 716 265 Closed Sun Traditional Portuguese Map C3 features substantial dishes such
dinner; Mon lunch Avenida Brasil 12, 3080-322 as guisado de javali com batata
Diners can see their food Tel 233 418 488 Closed Wed cozida e castanhas (stewed wild-
cooking in the wood-fired This simple, traditional restaurant boar with boiled potatoes) and
oven at this lovely eatery. with sea views is good for snacks caldeira de borrego (lamb stew).
Waiters serve a selection or full meals. Try the açorda de
of vegetables at the table camarão (prawn and bread stew) VISEU: Casablanca €
and come back for second or prato do dia (dish of the day). Seafood Map D3
helpings. The veal dishes Avenida Emídio Navarro 70–72,
are tender and delicious, GOUVEIA: Lá em Casa € 3500-124
as is the octopus. The home- Traditional Portuguese Map D3 Tel 232 422 239 Closed Tue (Oct–
made bread with requeijão Avenida Dom Manuel I 4, 6290-320 Jun)
(ricotta) is divine. Tel 238 491 983 Closed Sun dinner; This bright, spacious restaurant
Mon specializes in seafood. The arroz
Mountain fare with an innovative de polvo com gambas (octopus
COIMBRA: O Trovador €€ twist. Try the award-winning pork and prawn rice) is a must. There
Traditional Portuguese Map C3 tenderloin stuffed with Serra are plenty of meat dishes too.
Largo Sé Velha 15–17, cheese with black pudding sauce, Reserve in advance.
3000-383 or the roast kid with chestnuts.
Tel 239 825 475 Closed Sun; VISEU: Churrasqueira Santa
1–15 Jan GUARDA: O Ferrinho € Eulália €
This traditional restaurant with Traditional Portuguese Map D3 Traditional Portuguese Map D3
rustic decor serves regional Rua Francisco de Passos 21, Avenida Luís Martins 86, 3500-719
dishes such as chanfana (goat 6300-558 Tel 232 436 283
and red wine casserole). Live Tel 271 211 990 Closed Thu (Nov– This unpretentious restaurant
fado music sometimes May) specializes in grilled meats but
accompanies meals on Friday Regional dishes fill the menu in offers fish and seafood dishes
and Saturday evenings. this rustic restaurant. The trout too. The wine list features local
stuffed with presunto ham is Dão wines.
COIMBRA: Arcadas delicious, as is the guisado de
da Cappella €€€ javali (wild boar stew). VISEU: Muralhas da Sé €€
International Map C3 Traditional Portuguese Map D3
Rua António Augusto Gonçalves, MANTEIGAS: Casa das Penhas Adro da Sé 24, 3500-195
3041-901 Douradas €€ Tel 232 437 777 Closed Sun dinner;
Tel 239 802 380 Closed lunch Traditional Portuguese Map D4 Tue
The gourmet menu at this Penhas Douradas, Apartado 9, Granite walls and warm colours
luxurious, romantic restaurant in 6260-200 at this restaurant create an
the Quinta das Lágrimas changes Tel 275 981 045 intimate atmosphere in which
with the seasons but never fails A wide range of regional-style to enjoy artistically presented
to delight, serving great portions specialities are served in a regional dishes, cooked to a high
of global food. gleaming dining room at this standard. Extensive wine list.
DK Choice
AMARANTE: Largo
do Paço €€€
International Map D2
Largo do Paço 6, 4600-017
Tel 255 410 830
The elegant Largo do Paço
offers a culinary experience to
satisfy the most refined and
demanding of palates. Located
in the historic Casa da Calçada
hotel (see p391), this award-
winning restaurant boasts a
Michelin star. Chef André Silva
changes the tasting menus
seasonally to incorporate the
freshest available ingredients.
Geadas in Bragança, with its exposed-brick columns
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 407
BRAGA: Inácio €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C1
Campo das Hortas 4, 4700-000
Tel 253 613 235 Closed Tue
Housed in a historic granite
building with antique decorative
touches, Inácio offers first-class
regional dishes, including
lamprey rice, veal and kid.
CAMINHA: Muralha
The plush dining room at The Yeatman, Porto (see p407) da Caminha €
Modern Portuguese Map C1
SENDIM: Gabriela €€ is known for. Finish with the Rua Barão de São Roque 69, 4910-340
Traditonal Portuguese Map E2 local cakes, charutos dos Arcos Tel 258 728 199
Largo da Igreja 27, 5225-106 (cigars of Arcos). A light, airy hotel restaurant
Tel 273 739 180 whose menu offers plenty of
Regional specialities, such as BARCELOS: A Vincentina € choice within Portuguese food,
Mirandese steak in a special Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 including fresh fish.
sauce and sopa de legumes Rua Dom António Barroso 87,
(vegetable soup) are served here. 4750-258 GUIMARÃES: El Rei
Tel 253 812 285 Dom Afonso €
TORRE DE MONCORVO: This friendly eatery is very popular Traditional Portuguese Map C2
O Artur € with the locals. The house special Praça de São Tiago 20, 4810-311
Traditonal Portuguese Map E2 is francesinha, a type of steak Tel 253 419 096 Closed Sun
Lugar de Rentão, Carviçais, sandwich with melted cheese and Named after the first king
5160-069 a spicy tomato sauce made with of Portugal, this family restaurant
Tel 279 098 000 Closed Sun dinner beer and brandy. serves regional treats such
Decorated with farming as feijoada à transmontana
equipment, this restaurant is BARCELOS: Bagoeira €€ (bean stew) and bacalhau
renowned locally for Mirandese Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 mistério (cod).
steak and cabrito (kid). Avenida Sidónio Pais 495, 4750-333
Tel 253 813 088
VILA REAL: Museu dos The set menu at this hotel DK Choice
Presuntos €€ restaurant offers a selection GUIMARÃES:
Traditonal Portuguese Map D2 of regional fare served in Cor de Tangerina €€
Avenida Cidade Ourense, 43, generous portions. Vegetarian Map C2
5000-690 Largo Martins Sarmento 89,
Tel 259 327 027 Closed Mon BRAGA: Anjo Verde € 4800-432
A restaurant offering northern Vegetarian Map C1 Tel 253 542 009 Closed Sun
Portuguese fare, such as Largo da Praça Velha 21, 4700-439 dinner; Mon
Montalegre-style veal cutlets. Tel 253 264 010 Closed Sun Spread across one floor
Presunto ham is another speciality, A modern, attractive vegetarian and the leafy gardens of
hence the restaurant’s name. restaurant. On the menu are an old town house, this
substantial main dishes and restaurant in a cultural centre
VILA REAL: Terra da several colourful side dishes, with funky furnishings and
Montanha €€ plus there is a complimentary frequent art exhibitions
Traditonal Portuguese Map D2 herbal tea on arrival. offers vegetarian daily specials
Rua 31 de Janeiro 18, 5000-603 made with fresh, locally
Tel 259 372 075 Closed Sun BRAGA: São Frutuoso € sourced organic produce. An
dinner Traditional Portuguese Map C1 extensive range of infusions
The rustic decor at this restaurant Rua Costa Gomes 168, 4700-262 and teas is available.
includes lots of wine barrels. It Tel 253 623 372 Closed Sun dinner;
offers hearty local fare and an Mon
excellent wine list. Granite and wood dominate GUIMARÃES: São Gião €€
the comfortable interior of this Traditional Portuguese Map C2
restaurant. Try the bacalhau com Avenida Comendador Joaquim de
castanhas (cod with onions and Almeida Freitas 56, Moreira de
Minho chestnuts) or bacalhau com broa Cónegos, 4815-270
(cod with corn bread). Tel 253 561 853 Closed Sun dinner;
ARCOS DE VALDEVEZ: Mon
Costa do Vez €€ BRAGA: Arcoense €€ Visit this restaurant for an
Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 Traditional Portuguese Map C1 intimate fine dining experience;
EN 121, Quinta de Silvares, 4970-483 Rua Eugenheiro José Justino de try the sopa rica de peixe (fish
Tel 258 516 122 Closed Mon Amorim 96, 4715-023 soup) or robalo grelhado com
Mountain views, grilled Tel 253 278 952 Closed Sun dinner molho de camarão (sea bass in
meats and baked cod are This bright, spacious and prawn sauce). Attentive waiters
what this attractive restaurant simply decorated restaurant help with the wine selection.
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 409
The chic bar area at Flor da Rosa, housed in a former monastery in Crato
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 411
Algarve
ALBUFEIRA: Adega do Zé €
Traditional Portuguese Map C7
Torre da Medronheira, Estrada dos
Olhos d’Água, 8200-635
Tel 289 501 617 Closed Sun
Dishes like Arroz de polvo (octopus
rice) and espetadas de tamboril
(monkfish kebab) feature on the
menu at this lively eatery. A long
established institution, it is run by
a much-admired local couple.
MEXILHOEIRA GRANDE:
Adega Vilalisa €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C7
Rua Francisco Bivar 52, 8500-132
Tel 282 968 478 Closed lunch
Wonderfully understated,
and with shared tables, this
simple eatery offers a great
tasting menu with wines.
Reservations recommended.
ODIAXERE: Cacto €€
International Map C7
Estrada Nacional 125, 8600-250
Selection of wine bottles lining the walls at Veneza, in Paderne Tel 282 798 285 Closed lunch, Thu,
Wed
CARVOEIRO: Bon Bon €€€ include cataplana de peixe (fish Delicious slowroasted lamb
International Map C7 casserole) and açorda de marisco with garlic and herbs is a menu
Urb. Cabeço de Pais, Sesmarias 8400- (seafood and bread stew). highlight here. Book ahead.
525
Tel 282 341 496 Closed lunch, Wed & FARO: O Estaminé €€ OLHÃO: Horta €€
Nov–Feb Seafood Map D7 Traditional Portuguese Map D7
The unassuming location of this Ilha Deserta, 8000-138 Avenida 5 de Outubro 148, 8700-304
Michelin star restaurant is Tel 917 811 856 Closed dinner Tel 289 714 215 Closed Sat
misleading. Master chef Rui Take a water taxi to get to this Friendly, nofrills service and huge
Silvestre delivers highly crafted island restaurant. The trip is well portions make this restaurant a
and wonderfully presented worth the effort for the views, favourite with locals. Staples
modern cuisine. the lovely wooden building include monkfish rice and juicy
and the ultrafresh seafood. picanha (beef ) kebab.
CASTRO MARIM: A Tasca
Medieval € FERRAGUDO: Sueste €€ PADERNE: Veneza €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C7 Traditional Portuguese / Traditional Portuguese Map C7
Rua 25 de Abril 65, 8950-122 Seafood Map C7 Paderne Albufeira, 8200-488
Tel 281 513 196 Closed Tue Rua Infante Santo 91, 8400-256 Tel 289 367 129 Closed Tue & Wed
The house speciality at this con Tel 282 461 592 Closed Sun & Jan lunch; 2 weeks in spring & autumn
venient place is açorda de galhina There are great views over the The bottles lining the walls here
(breadbased chicken stew). Be estuary at this quayside eatery reflect the vast wine list, with over
sure to leave room for one of the specializing in charcoalgrilled 800 options. There is an impressive
sweet almond desserts. fish. Expect polished service and menu of homecooked dishes.
an excellent wine list.
ESTÔMBAR: O Charneco €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C7 LAGOS: No Pátio €€ DK Choice
Rua Joaquim Manuel Charneco 3, International Map C7 PRAIA DA GALÉ: Vila Joya €€€
8400-037 Rua Lançarote de Freitas 46, 8600-605 International Map C7
Tel 282 431 113 Closed lunch, Sun & Tel 282 763 777 Closed Sun & Mon Estrada da Galé, 8200-416
Jan Run by a British couple, this Tel 289 591 795 Closed Dates
Come here for authentic, award charming restaurant with a vary
winning Algarvean cooking, garden terrace serves perfectly One of Portugal’s finest
including delights such as pernil cooked cuisine. The menu restaurants, Vila Joya boasts
no forno (ovenbaked ham) and changes monthly to incorporate two Michelin stars. With a
borrego guisado com feijão verde fresh seasonal produce. wine cellar of 12,000 optimally
(lamb fricassée with green beans). stored bottles, the perfect
LAGOS: Vista Alegre €€ wine pairing with the gourmet
FARO: A Taska € French Map C7 cuisine is guaranteed. Advance
Traditional Portuguese Map D7 Rua Ilha Terceira 19B, 8600-969 reservations are essential,
Rua do Alportel 38, 8000-239 Tel 282 792 151 Closed Mon especially for nonhotel guests.
Tel 969 441 381 Closed Sun Bookings are essential at this
The xarém (thick cornmeal 20seat French bistro. Service
soup with clams or bacon) is a can be a little slow, but the PRAIA DA ROCHA: Vista €€€
speciality at this typical, rustic fare is worth waiting for. Try Traditional Portuguese Map C7
restaurant. Look out for the dish the quail salad or duck in Av Tomas Cabreira, 8500-802
of the day or the tasting menu. honey sauce. Tel 282 460 280
Headed by young Portuguese
FARO: Dois Irmãos €€ LOULÉ: Bica Velha €€ chef João Oliveira, this is the
Portuguese/International Map D7 Traditional Portuguese Map D7 inhouse restaurant of Bela
Praça Ferreira de Almeida 15, 8000-156 Rua Martin Moniz 17–19, 8100-000 Vista Hotel & Spa.Vista offers
Tel 289 823 337 Tel 289 463 376 Closed lunch two superb tasting menus,
The accent here is on classic The food is complemented and the maître’d’ will suggest
Algarvean cuisine. Specialities by the intimate and rustic wine pairings.
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 413
FUNCHAL: O Celeiro €€
Seafood
Rua Aranhas 22, 9000-044
Tel 291 230 622 Closed Sun
One of the oldest restaurants in
the region, O Celeiro is furnished
with dark wood and azulejo tiles.
The reasonably priced menu is
dominated by fish and seafood.
FUNCHAL: O Jango €€
Traditional Portuguese
Rua de Santa Maria 166,
9060-291
Tel 291 221 280
Dishes are carefully prepared
and presented at this restaurant
with an African-themed decor Riso in Funchal, which specializes in risotto dishes
and a varied menu. Try the
house steak or gambas à Sinthon surprises with his RIBEIRA BRAVA: Fajã
Indiana (prawns). creativity, using regional dos Padres €€
produce whenever possible. Seafood
FUNCHAL: Riso €€ The wine list is extensive and Estrada Padre António Dinis
International features local as well as Henriques I, 9300-261
Rua de Santa Maria 274, 9050-040 international labels. Tel 291 944 538 Closed dinner
Tel 291 280 360 Closed Mon Reached by cable car, this
The menu here is devoted to rice. FUNCHAL: Ristorante restaurant, offering a vast
In addition to paella, there are Villa Cipriani €€€ selection of fresh seafood and
all kinds of imaginative risottos Italian regional dishes, can accommodate
and other rice-based dishes. Estrada Monumental 139, dinner bookings for large
The views of the ocean are 9000-098 groups and visits to the
spectacular too. Tel 291 717 171 Closed lunch vineyards by appointment.
The checked tablecloths lend an
FUNCHAL: Dona Amélia €€€ informal air to this gourmet SANTANA: Cantinho
International Italian restaurant. Sweeping da Serra €€
Rua Imperatriz Dona Amélia 83, ocean views from the terrace Traditional Portuguese
9000-018 add to the dining experience. Estrada do Pico das Pedras,
Tel 291 225 784 9230-107
A pretty restaurant overlooking FUNCHAL: Uva €€€ Tel 291 573 727
tiled rooftops. Dishes such as International Warm colours and a huge
gnocchi with lobster and tuna Rua dos Aranhas 27A, 9000-044 fireplace give this restaurant a
steak with fettuccini grace the Tel 291 009 000 cosy, welcoming atmosphere.
menu, along with flambéed pork Within the Vine Hotel, this Hearty regional dishes and
and fish. Book ahead. contemporary dining spot interesting home-made liqueurs
serves delicious gourmet fare. are on the menu.
FUNCHAL: Il Gallo d’Oro €€€ The rooftop views are splendid.
Modern Portuguese SANTANA: Quinta do Furão €€
Cliff Bay Hotel, Estrada Monumental PORTO SANTO: Hotel Quinta International
147, 9004-532 do Serrado €€ Achada do Gramacho, 9230-082
Tel 291 707 700 Traditional Portuguese Tel 291 570 100
Two Michelin stars shine Sítío do Pedregal, 9400-010 The high-ceilinged dining area
above this acclaimed gourmet Tel 291 980 270 features two huge fireplaces,
restaurant. French chef Benoît The restaurant at Hotel while the sheltered terrace offers
Quinta do Serrado specializes stunning views. Organic and
in traditional Portuguese local produce is used almost
dishes with a local Algarvean exclusively. Vegetarian options
twist. Try the pudim de are available.
maracujá (passion fruit
pudding) for dessert.
TERCEIRA: O Pescador €€
Traditional Portuguese
Avenida Beira Mar, Bloco C, Praia da
Vitória, 9760-441
Tel 295 513 495 Closed Sun
This popular restaurant exudes a
friendly and informal ambience
and is renowned for its delicious
grilled swordfish with sautéed
The well-stocked bar area at Fonte Cuisine, Pico vegetables. Book ahead.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 396–7
416 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL
Portugal offers a wealth of tempting goods brands onto the market. Fortunately,
at reasonable prices for shoppers. The best traditional arts and crafts have not been lost
buys include handmade leather goods and as a result of this modernization. Pottery and
shoes, handcrafted gold and silver jewellery, ceramics, embroidery and lace, woodcarving
fine porcelain and crystal, glassware, and and cork, copper artifacts, tapestries, carpets
high-quality clothes from hand-knitted and fresh produce are of a high standard.
sweaters to the latest fashion garments and The regional tourism office shops are some
designer labels. The appearance of shopping of the best places to buy genuine Portuguese
malls has brought a range of recognised handicrafts and souvenirs.
Markets
A social and commercial
occasion, the street market is
integral to Portuguese life. It
is usually held in the town’s main
square; ask for the mercado or
feira if in doubt. Most markets
Lisbon’s enormous Centro Colombo shopping mall sell a wide range of goods from
food to household items and
Opening Hours ‘tax free’ sign outside. Ask the clothes, but you will also see
Normal shopping hours are shop assistant for an Isencão sites devoted to antiques and
9am–1pm and 3–7pm Monday na Exportação form, which local crafts. Roadside stalls offer
to Friday and 9 or 10am–1pm must be presented to a customs produce from smallholdings,
on Saturdays. However, many official on your departure from including delicious home-
shops in the bigger towns and Portugal. For more details made liqueurs, pastries and
cities remain open during the consult Global Blue. cakes. Most markets are held
lunch hour and on Saturday in the mornings only, but in
afternoons. The big shopping tourist areas they may go on
centres are open every day, How to Pay until late afternoon.
including Sundays, from 10am Most shops accept credit and
to 11pm or midnight. debit cards, though you may
need to pay with cash in some
of the smaller shops outside
Tax-Free Goods the big cities. You may be
On most goods a 23 per cent asked to show a passport
value-added tax (IVA – Imposto when purchasing expensive
sobre o Valor Acrescentado) is items by credit card.
charged in mainland Portugal. In Under EU regulations on
Madeira the tax is 22 per cent and consumer goods, you have
in the Azores it’s 18 per cent. a two-year guarantee on
Portugal has more than 1,600 products. Faulty goods must
shops affiliated with the “Tax be returned with the original
Free for Tourists System’” which receipt for exchange or repair.
can be identified by the logo of
that name. Non-European Union
visitors are exempt from IVA, pro- Shopping Malls
vided that they stay in Portugal Springing up in ever increasing
no longer than 180 days. numbers, large shopping malls
Obtaining a rebate in smaller have exerted a big influence on
shops may be complicated; it is shopping habits in Portugal. Ceramics for sale at the open-air market
simpler to buy in a shop with a Lisbon’s huge Centro Colombo in Barcelos
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL 417
Size Chart
Women’s dresses, coats and skirts
Portuguese 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
British 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Women’s shoes
Portuguese 36 37 38 39 40 41
British 3 4 5 6 7 8
American 5 6 7 8 9 10
Men’s suits
Portuguese 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 (size) Quality leather boots from Madeira
British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches) – a popular gift
American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
Men’s shirts Ornately embroidered
Portuguese 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45 (size)
women’s linen blouses,
British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches)
American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches) fashioned in the regional
style, are available in many
Men’s shoes
Portuguese 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 craft shops. Prices are also
British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12 reasonable for knitwear and
American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½ woollen fishermen’s sweaters
from Nazaré (see p186).
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL 419
Antiques medieval times, now attract region where they are made,
Whether you are a connoisseur buyers from all over the world. though most of the better-
or casual collector, Portugal’s The best hunting grounds in known regional produce can
antique shops and markets are Lisbon are in the Rua São Bento, be found throughout the
bound to have something to Largo de S Martinho, Rua country. Cured ham
catch your eye. Antique markets Augusto Rosa, and (presunto) from the
(feiras de velharias) take place Rua D Pedro V. north of Portugal
in many regions, usually on Antique Tiles is particularly
Saturday or Sunday. has great tiles, good in Chaves
There is a steady demand and Arca de (see pp262–3).
for rare and unusual antiques, São José is good Monchique (see
especially those connected for antiques. pp324–5) in the
with Portugal’s trading links Algarve also has a
with the Orient over past cen- Serra cheese from the reputation for cured
turies: Japanese lacquer work Regional Serra da Estrela ham. Spicy pork
and mother of pearl, carvings Produce sausages (linguiça)
in wood and ivory, and religious Every region in Portugal offers are a speciality of Porto. The
icons. Hand-painted tiles, its own specialities and it is Minho region is known for its
introduced by the Moors in best to buy fresh items in the tasty garlic sausage made with
turkey and chicken meat
(alheira de Mirandela) and a
sumptuous black sausage
(morcela) made from pork.
A wide variety of cheese is
made in Portugal. The best
is reputed to be from the
town of Serpa (see p316) and
the surrounding region of the
lower Alentejo. Serpa cheese
finds its way into many shops
throughout the country. It is
rivalled in taste and quality
perhaps only by cheese made
in the Serra da Estrela region
An antique shop full of wares in Lisbon (see p221, pp224–5).
DIRECTORY
Tax-Free Goods Ceramics Handicrafts Garrafeira Nacional
Rua de Santa Justa 18,
Global Blue Azulejos Sant’Anna Alto Minho Baixa.
∑ globalblue.com Rua do Alecrim 95, Handicrafts Route Map 7 B3.
Chiado, Lisboa. ∑ visitportugal.com Tel 218 887 9080.
Shopping Malls Map 7 A5.
Tapetes de Arraiolos Solar do Vinho
Tel 213 422 537.
Centro Colombo Rua Lima e Brito 8, do Porto
∑ santanna.com.pt
Avenida General Norton Arraiolos. Tel 266 419 526. Rua S Pedro de
de Matos, Benfica, Lisbon. Centro de ∑ casatapetes Alcântara, 45 Bairro
Tel 217 113 600. Artesanato arraiolos.com Alto, Lisbon.
∑ colombo.pt Largo Dr José Novais 27. Map 7 A3.
Tel 253 811 882. Wine and Spirits Tel 213 475 707.
Markets ∑ ivdp.pt
Porches Pottery Coisas do Arco
Feira de EN 125 Porches, do Vinho
Algarve. Centro Cultural
Antiques
Antiguidades
Estação Oriente, Lisbon. Tel 282 352 858. de Belém, Antique Tiles
∑ porchespottery.com Lisbon. Map 1 B5. Solar Rua D Pedro
Feira de Carcavelos
Tel 213 642 031. V 68-70, Bairro Alto,
Largo Mercado, Vista Alegre
Carcavelos. Atlantis Lisbon.
Clothing and Map 4 F2.
Largo do Chiado 22–23, Shoes
Feira de Cascais Tel 213 465 522.
Chiado, Lisbon.
Placa Mercado Municipal,
Map 7 A4. Parfois Arca de São José
Cascais.
Tel 213 461 401. Rua Augusta 146, Baixa Rua de São José 188,
Feira de São Pedro ∑ vistaalegre Map 7 B4. Lisbon.
São Pedro Sintra, Sintra. atlantis.com Tel 932 264 398. Tel 213 548 462.
420 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN PORTUGAL
The traditional love of music, dance and activities throughout the year. For specific
singing in Portugal is reflected in a vast information on Entertainment in Lisbon,
range of cultural activities and folk festivals see pp130–131. Theatre, classical and
that are celebrated in every corner of the contemporary music, opera, dance, film
country. Lisbon is considered to be one of festivals, pop, rock and jazz festivals and
the liveliest places in Europe after hours, variety shows featuring internationally
hosting a major parties at night plus a renowned performers are also held in other
large number of entertainment and cultural cities and regions of the country.
Bullfighting
Women sporting colourful costumes during the Festas de Lisboa The Ribatejo region northeast
of Lisbon is bullfighting country
Recreios (p131), Culturgest, and merrymaking. One of the (see pp150–51) and the principal
and the MEO Arena (p131). most exuberant religious arena in this region is Praça de
One of the highlights of the festivals is the Romaria de Nossa Touros in Santarem. Lisbon’s
year is the Festival Porta-Jazz, Senhora d’Agonia (see p35). major arena is the Campo
with some of the legendary Another major festival is Festas Pequeno (see p122).
names in jazz and blues de Lisboa, which takes place in
participating. The Centro Lisbon throughout June. Cinema,
Cultural Vila Flor in Guimarães theatre and music events are
hosts one of Portugal’s most held, as well as street festivities
important jazz festivals. and parades, including the big
St Anthony’s folk parade (known
as Marchas Populares).
Carnivals
Celebrated mostly in honour of
the Saints or Our Lady, Portuguese Nightlife
festivals and carnivals are There is no shortage of places
colourful events with costumed to enjoy a drink, listen to music
dancers, decorated floats and and dance until the early hours
papier-mâché models. Two of of the morning in a nightclub or
the most famous are the Loulé late-night bar. Irish bars are in
Carnival in Algarve and vogue for a lively night out and
Funchal Carnival in Madeira. gay bars have sprung up in many
Thousands of visitors come to regions. For nightlife, Lisbon The colourful Romaria de Nossa Senhora
join in the three days of parades reigns supreme and the choice d’Agonia religious festival
DIRECTORY
Theatre and Dance Tel 213 470 816. Culturgest Carnivals
∑ doclisboa.org Rua do Arco do Cego 50,
Algarve Folk Music Lisbon. Map 6 D2. Festas de Lisboa
and Contemporary Porto Film Festival ∑ festasdelisboa.com
Tel 217 905 155.
Dance Festival Rua Aníbal Cunha 84,
∑ culturgest.pt Funchal Carnival
∑ visitalgarve.pt Porto. Tel 222 058 819.
∑ fantasporto.com Festival Porta-Jazz ∑ visitmadeira.pt
Teatro Rivoli Tel 223 392 201. Loulé Carnival
Praça D João, Porto. Classical Music, ∑ teatromunicipal- Tel 289 800 400.
Tel 223 392 201. Opera and Ballet doporto.pt ∑ visitalgarve.pt
∑ rivoli.bilheteira
online.pt Casa da Musica Festival MED
Nightlife
Av de Boavista 604-610, ∑ festivalmed.pt
Film Porto. Tel 220 120 220. T-Clube
NOS Alive
∑ casadamusica.com Quinta do Lago, Almancil,
Lisbon & Sintra Film ∑ nosalive.com
Algarve. Tel 289 356 213.
Festival Rock, Jazz and Rock in Rio Lisboa ∑ tclube.com
Tel 213 255 835. Performing Arts ∑ rockinriolisboa.
∑ leffest.com Bullfighting
sapo.pt
Centro Cultural Vila Flor
Doclisboa Avenida D Afonso Super Bock Rock Praça de Touros
Rua da Rosa 277, Lisbon. Henriques, Guimarães. Tel Festival Santarém. Tel 243 304
Map 4 F2. 253 424 700. ∑ ccvf.pt ∑ superbock.pt 437 (tourist office).
422 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Portugal offers an amazing variety of terrain whale watching, big game fishing, surfing
with sports and leisure activities to match. and horse riding. Water-skiing, jet-skiing,
The mild climate in the Algarve, Madeira and canoeing and kayaking can also be enjoyed,
the Azores means that many outdoor leisure as can mountaineering and rock-climbing.
pursuits can be enjoyed throughout the year. The unspoiled landscape invites leisurely
Specialist holidays are available for a variety walking. Golf (see pp426–7) and tennis
of activities, including microlight flying, facilities are well established.
Flying, Paragliding
Walking along one of Madeira’s levadas (irrigation channels) and Skydiving
Microlight flying is available at
Boating and the Sapal Nature Reserve the Algarve Air Sports Centre.
Tour operators in the Algarve, near Castro Marim (p337) are The centre was established by
Madeira and the Azores offer popular locations for nature ex-world champion Gerry Breen,
sightseeing cruises. Specialist lovers and bird-watchers. who is the chief instructor here.
holidays designed especially for Inland, the 300-km (186-mile) You can take lessons leading
wine buffs are offered by Douro Via Algarviana snakes through to a pilot’s qualification
Azul in the famous wine- the Algarve hinterland, from recognized by the Federacão
growing region in northern Alcoutim in the east to Cabo Portuguesa de Voo Livre
Portugal. The itinerary combines de São Vincente in the west. (National Association for Free
river trips with journeys on the Another long distance footpath, Flight), or occasional pleasure
old steam engines along Rota Vincentina runs along the flights along the rugged west
riverside routes that once Alentejo coast. Algarve coastline.
transported the wines to the Verdant and more densely The weather conditions and
city of Porto, and include forested North Portugal is a terrain in parts of Portugal are
overnight stays at traditional joy to explore on foot. Here, also ideal for paragliding. Most
wine-growing farms (quintas). you can follow the ancient students bring their own gear.
paths of the pilgrims to the Adrenalin seekers can indulge
holy shrine of Santiago de in the exhilarating sport of
Walking and Cycling Compostela in Spain. skydiving at the Aerodrome
Madeira is ideal as a walking Also well worth exploring Municipal de Portimão in
destination, with picturesque are the Peneda-Gerês National the Algarve.
villages, amazing mountain Park (pp276–7) and further
landscapes, rugged coastlines east Montesinho Natural Park
and golden beaches. The (p266), which offers scenic Fishing
favourite routes follow the mountain routes. The coastline, waterways and
island’s extensive network of The Alentejo has vast tracts rivers of Portugal offer plenty of
irrigation channels (levadas). of open plains, and near the opportunities for fishing, from
The Azores are a paradise bigger towns and cities – such angling for trout in the rivers to
for walkers and hikers, with
flowered roads, volcanic moun-
tainous terrain and verdant
countryside. Sherpa Expedi
tions specializes in walking
holidays here and in Madeira.
The Silver Coast (western
central Portugal) has undulating
terrain, forested hills and long,
sandy beaches, almost deserted
for most of the year.
The Algarve offers exhilarating
clifftop walks, especially along
the west coast. Portugal Walks
specializes in walking holidays
in this region. In the east of the
Ria Formosa Natural Park (p335) Microlight flying over Lagos Bay in the Algarve
424 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Caving
The Algarve has more than 100
subterranean caves scattered
across the central and eastern
region, some dating from the
Jurassic period. For more
information, browse the Visit
Algarve website.
Many of the caves have
stalagmites and stalactites
but visitors should explore only
with a recommended guide.
On the Azores island of Terceira
the Algar do Carvão is one of the
volcanic wonders of the world.
It is a giant cave that spirals down
Whale-watching expedition up close to a whale wards nearly 100 m (300 ft) from
the opening of its conduit, ending
big game fishing off the or you can book a specialist at a crystalclear lake. Milky white
shores of the Algarve, the tennis holiday in the western stalactites and stalagmites cover
Lisbon Coast, the Silver Coast, Algarve through Tennis in large areas of the roof and walls.
Madeira and the Azores. Many the Sun. On Pico, the Gruta das Torres
of the rivers and lakes yield is the largest lava tube in the
abundant trout, carp and eels. Azores and a Regional Natural
A licence obtained locally from Whale Watching Monument. For more information,
the Instituto Florestal is required The Azores is a prime spot to visit the Montanheiros website.
to fish the rivers, but not for line see whales and other cetaceans,
fishing from the shore or from a such as dolphins, that are
boat at sea. Contact Federação attracted to the warm waters Climbing and
Portuguesa de Pesca Desportivo and abundant food. As many as Mountaineering
for further information. 20 different species have been Madeira’s volcanic origins and
Among the companies seen. The whalewatching season rugged mountain terrain, with
offering big game fishing are lasts from May to October due cliff faces rising from the sea,
Pescamar and Cruzeiros da to weather conditions, though offer exciting conquests for
Oura in the Algarve; Madeira whales inhabit the waters experienced climbers. The
Game Fishing, Nautisantos Big throughout the year. favourite areas are the central
Game Fishing, Turipesca and Whalewatching holidays as mountain range, the sea cliffs
Madeira Marlin in Madeira; well as daily expeditions are and some of the northern cliffs.
and Sports Fishing Azores offered by Whale Watch Azores, The Azores offers a similar
in the Azores. Futurismo Azores Whale landscape, and the island of
Watching, Espaçotalassa and Pico provides the ultimate
Ocean Emotion. challenge to scale its 2,341m
(7,680ft) mountain – the
highest in Portugal.
Horse Riding
Portugal’s proud riding
tradition stems mainly from the
country’s handsome Lusitano
horses and the sturdy Garrano
breed that roams free in the
PenedaGêres National Park
(see pp276–7).
Tennis player at the Vale de Lobo resort in One of the most renowned
the Algarve equestrian centres for training
Lusitano and Garrano horses is
Tennis Centro Equestre Vale do Lima,
Tennis courts are found almost where equestrian holidays with
everywhere in Portugal and lessons and tuition in horse care,
are an integral part of the riding and dressage are provided.
facilities in most tourist resorts. In the Algarve, Gois Valley
Many resorts also have squash Riding Holidays, Pinetrees
courts. The larger Algarve Riding Centre and Quinta do
resorts, such as Vale do Lobo, Paraiso Alto are wellknown Rock climbing in the rugged, volcanic
offer tennis coaching holidays, riding centres. terrain of Madeira
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 425
DIRECTORY
Water Sports Boating Algarve. Whale Watching
Tel 289 301 900.
Algarve Dive Douro Azul ∑ cruzeiros-da- Espaçotalassa
Experience Rua de Miragaia 103, oura.com Lajes do Pico, Pico, Azores.
Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve 4050-387, Porto. Tel 292 672 010.
Resort, Vale Covo, Algarve. Tel 223 402 500. Federação ∑ espacotalassa.com
Tel 282 351 194. ∑ douroazul.com Portuguesa de Pesca
Desportiva Futurismo Azores
∑ algarve-scuba-
Walking Rua Eça de Queirós 3 1º, Whale Watching
diving.com
1050-095 Lisbon. Portas do Mar, Loja 24,
and Cycling
Algarve Surf Tel 213 140 177. Ponta Delgada.
School Mountain Bike ∑ fppd.pt Tel 296 628 522.
Sagres, Algarve. Adventures ∑ futurismo.pt
Tel 963 133 009. Instituto Florestal
Tel 918 502 663. Ocean Emotion
∑ algarvesurf Avenida da República
∑ themountainbike
16, 1050-191 Lisbon. Marina de Angra do
school.com adventure.com
Tel 213 124 800. Heroísmo, Terceira,
Algarvexcite Portugal Walks ∑ icnf.pt Azores.
Vilamoura Marina, Algarve. Vila do Bispo, Algarve. Tel 967 806 944.
Tel 937 777 913. Madeira Game ∑ oceanemotion.pt
Tel 393 479 489.
∑ algarvexcite.com Fishing
∑ portugalwalks.com
Tel 291 227 169. Whale Watch Azores
Dive Time Rota Vincentina ∑ madeiragamefish. Marina da Horta,
Marina de Lagos, Lagos, Estrada da Circunvalação com 9900-017 Horta, Faial
Algarve. Tel 282 099 774. Odemira, Alentejo. Island. Tel 292 293 891.
∑ dive-time.net Madeira Marlin
∑ rotavincentina.com ∑ whalewatchazores.
Rua da Estalagem 23, São
Espírito Azul Diving com
Sherpa Expeditions Gonçalo 9060-415
Marina de Vila Franca do ∑ sherpaexpeditions. Funchal, Madeira.
Campo, São Miguel,
Horse Riding
com Tel 291 790 350.
Azores. Tel 914 898 352. ∑ madeira-marlin.com Centro Equestre
∑ espiritoazul.com Via Algarviana
Nautisantos Big Vale do Lima
Rua de S. Domingos 65,
Torpedo Diving Game Fishing Quinta da Sobreira,
Loulé, Algarve.
Vilamoura, Algarve. Funchal Marina, Funchal, Sernados, Ponte de Lima.
Tel 289 412 959.
Tel 289 314 098. Madeira. Tel 291 231 312. Tel 258 943 873.
∑ viaalgarviana.org
∑ visitalgarve.pt ∑ nautisantosfishing. ∑ grupojpimenta.com
Southern Portugal
The Algarve is one of Europe’s
top golfing destinations. Across
the region there are no fewer
than 40 golf courses, including
The scenic Penha Longa Golf Club, Central Portugal many designed by the sport’s
greatest names, such as Jack
General Information 2007. Visit www.pga.com for Nicklaus, Nick Faldo and Sir
The majority of Portugal’s more details on tournaments. Henry Cotton. The choice of
nearly 60 golf courses are by the layouts is inspiring, with the
sea, with spectacular scenery. Algarve’s varied coastline
Along the mainland west Northern Portugal providing the setting for some
coast and in exposed areas of The north is the least developed truly spectacular and challenging
western Algarve, the wind in terms of golf courses, though courses. Inland, there is a more
increases as the day progresses, it was here that golf began in rustic backdrop, but the game is
so golfers wishing to avoid it Portugal when Scottish and no less demanding. The number
should opt for an early start. English port shippers founded and density of golf courses in
The main season runs from the Oporto Golf Club in 1890. the Algarve means that a visitor
mid-autumn to late spring, The course is the oldest in the to any part of the region can
but summer can also be busy. Iberian peninsula; the par-71 reach a golf course in a couple
Always book ahead. Rates circuit is laid out on sand dunes of hours at most.
vary from just over €30 to over by the Atlantic. The Amarante
€150 for a round of 18 holes, Golf Club offers a varied par-68
but discounts are available mountain course.
through tour operators, hotels
and booking services.
Lisbon and Central
Portugal
Major Tournaments Near Óbidos, the Praia d’El Rey
Portugal currently hosts three Golf Club is one of Portugal’s
PGA tournaments: the Madeira most highly regarded. Laid out
Island Open, held at the Santo by American golf architect
da Serra (March); the Open de Cabell Robinson, the long par-
Portugal, held in the Algarve or 72 course is set in a coastal
Lisbon area (March or April); and resort and extends across sand
the Portugal Masters, first held dunes, cliffs and pine woods. Putting at historic Porto Golf Club,
at Victoria Vilamoura in October The course is accessible to Northern Portugal
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S 427
DIRECTORY
Northern Praia d’El Rey Quinta Madeira and
Portugal Vale de Janelas (near do Lago the Azores
Óbidos). Tel 262 905 100. Nr Almancil.
Amarante Golf Club ∑ praia-del-rey.com Tel 289 390 700. Batalha
Quinta da Deveza, Fregim. Fenais da Luz.
∑ quintadolago.com
Tel 255 446 060. Quinta da Marinha Tel 296 498 559.
∑ golfedeamarante.
Golf Club San Lorenzo ∑ azoresgolfislands.
Quinta da Marinha. Tel 214 Quinta do Lago, com
com
860 100. ∑ quintada Nr Almancil.
Furnas
Oporto Golf Club marinha.com Tel 289 396 522.
Achada das Furnas.
Paramos, Espinho. ∑ sanlorenzogolf
Tróia Golf Tel 296 584 651.
Tel 227 342 008. course.com
Complexo Turístico de ∑ azoresgolfislands.com
∑ oportogolfclub.com
Tróia, Carvalhal. Vale do Lobo Palheiro Golf
Tel 265 499 400. Nr Almancil.
Lisbon and ∑ troiagolf.com
Rua do Balançal, São
Tel 289 353 465.
Central Portugal Gonçalo. Tel 291 790 120.
∑ valedolobo.com ∑ palheirogolf.com
Oitavos Dunes Southern
Portugal Vale da Pinta Porto Santo Golf
Quinta da Marinha. Carvoeiro, Sítio das Marinhas, Porto
Tel 214 860 600. Monte Rei Nr Lagoa. Santo. Tel 291 983 778.
∑ oitavosdunes.com Sesmarias, Algarve. Tel 282 340 900. ∑ portosantogolfe.com
Penha Longa Tel 281 950 960. ∑ pestanagolf.com
∑ monte-rei.com
Santo da Serra Golf
Golf Club Victoria Santo da Serra, Nr
Estrada da Pinheiros Altos Vilamoura Machico.
Lagoa Azul, Linhó. Quinta do Lago, Almancil. Vilamoura, EN 125. Tel 291 550 100.
Tel 219 249 011. Tel 289 359 910. Tel 289 320 100. ∑ santodaserragolf.
∑ penhalonga.com ∑ pinheirosaltos.pt ∑ dompedrogolf.com com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Portugal manages to pack a great deal roads and rail services. Nationwide tourist
for a small country. Its north is remote and offices provide up-to-date information on
mountainous, while the flat central plains attractions and accomodation, while the
give way to a coastline fringed with golden country has reliable Wi-Fi coverage. Easily
beaches. Spanning this geographically reached by air from the rest of Europe and
diverse nation is an excellent network of beyond, Portugal is easy to explore.
Language
Written Portuguese is fairly
similar to Spanish, so if you
know Spanish you should have National Museum Soares dos Reis at the Carrancas Palace in Porto
432 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
accommodation in Portugal,
including several award-
winning hostels in Lisbon and
other large cities.
Women Travellers
Travelling alone in Portugal is
fairly safe for women, although
common principles, such as
keeping to well-lit, public areas
after dark, still apply. Some areas
of Lisbon, such as the Baixa,
Cais do Sodrá, and Porto’s
Ribeira (riverfront) are probably
best avoided at bar closing time.
Resorts on the Algarve and
Lisbon coasts tend to be the
worst for unwanted attention.
Hitching alone is not safe;
use registered taxis or take
Family fun at the Slide & Splash park near Estombar, in the Algarve public transport.
Travellers with Senior Travellers
Disabilities Travellers aged 60 and over can Religion
Facilities for the disabled in take advantage of a range of Roman Catholicism is the
Portugal have improved benefits – including discounted dominant religion in Portugal.
greatly, with wheelchairs and rail travel and reduced Church services are held most
adapted toilets available at admission fees to many evenings and every Sunday
airports and the main stations, sightseeing attractions such as morning, as well as on religious
and reserved car parking museums, national monuments holidays. Sightseeing in
increasingly evident. Ramps and theatres – simply by churches may sometimes be
and lifts are installed in many showing some ID. Buses and difficult (and is certainly not
public places. Some buses can metro trains have designated encouraged) while services
accommodate wheelchair- seating areas reserved for the are in progress.
bound passengers (identified elderly and the infirm, but you’ll Churches of other
by the blue-and-white find that passengers are usually denominations, including
wheelchair emblem at the more than willing to give up Church of England, Baptist
front of the vehicle). their own seat if necessary. and Evangelical, can be found
Portugal-based specialist in larger towns and cities.
tour companies Accessible St Vincent’s Anglican Church,
Portugal and Ourico do Mar Student Travellers which travels from place to
design holidays for people Young people aged 12–25 may place, holds a number of
who have reduced mobility buy a Cartão Jovem (youth religious services in the Algarve.
or are in wheelchairs. card), which costs about €10
and is valid for a year. It offers
travel insurance and discounts Time
Travelling with Children for shops, restaurants, museums, Portugal and Madeira follow
Portugal is a family-friendly travel and youth hostels (see Britain in adopting Greenwich
destination, and children from p382). This card is supplied by Mean Time (GMT) in winter and
4 to 12 years old enjoy a number the Instituto moving the
of travel and sightseeing Português da clocks forward
discounts, sometimes as much Juventude one hour from
as 75 per cent; for those under (Portuguese March to
4, it’s very often free. Most Youth Institute). October (as in
restaurants have half-price kids’ The Inter- British Summer
menus, and hotels and some national Time). In the
guesthouses offer reduced Student Identity Azores, clocks
tariffs for children under the Card (ISIC) Student card are one hour
age of 8 if they share their provides the behind GMT
parents’ room. Many of the same benefits as the Cartão in winter and the same as
larger establishments provide Jovem and can be bought in GMT in summer. The 24-hour
a supervised crèche and your own country. Backpackers clock is more commonly used
playground facilities. have a good choice of budget throughout Portugal.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 433
DIRECTORY
Embassies Travel Safety Porto Places of Worship
and Consulates Advice Rua Clube dos Fenianos
25, 4000–172, Porto. St George’s Church
Australia Australia Department Rua de São Jorge
Tel 223 393 472.
Avenida da Liberdade of Foreign Affairs à Estrela 6, Lisbon.
∑ visitporto.travel
200, 2°, 1250-147, and Trade Tel 214 692 303.
Lisbon. Map 5 C5. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au In the UK:
St James’s Church
Tel 213 101 500. 11 Belgrave Square,
UK Foreign and Largo da Maternidade
London SW1X 8PP.
Canada Commonwealth Office de Júlio Dinis, Porto.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
Avenida da Liberdade Tel 226 064 989.
∑ gov.uk/foreign- ∑ portugaloffice.org.uk
196–200, 3°, 1269-121, travel-advice Lisbon Synagogue
Lisbon. Map 5 C5. In the USA: Rua A Herculano 59,
Tel 213 164 600. US Department 590 Fifth Ave, 4th floor,
Lisbon.
of State New York. Tel 213 881 592.
Republic of Tel 212 220 5772.
Ireland ∑ travel.state.gov/ St Vincent’s
Avenida da Liberdade Travellers with Anglican Church
200-4°,1250-147,
Tourist Offices Disabilities (Algarve)
Lisbon. Apartado 135,
Coimbra Accessible Portugal
Map 4 F1. Boliqueime.
Praça da República Tel 211 338 693.
Tel 213 308 200. Tel 289 366 720.
3000–343 Coimbra. ∑ accessible
United Kingdom Tel 939 010 034. portugal.com Responsible
Rua de São Bernardo 33, ∑ turismodecoimbra.pt Travel
Ourico do Mar
1249-082, Lisbon. Faro ∑ ouricodomar.com Blue Flag
Map 4 D2. Rua da Misericórdia 8-12,
Tel 213 924 000. ∑ blueflag.org
8000-296, Faro. Student
British Consulates Tel 289 803 604. Information Center
Azores Tel 296 628 175. ∑ visitalgarve.pt ∑ center.pt
Funchal Tel 291 212 860
Instituto Português
Lisbon Zmar Eco Camping
da Juventude
Portimão Tel 282 490 750.
Lisboa Welcome Center, Resort
Avenida da Liberdade
∑ zmar.eu
USA Rua do Arsenal 29, 1100- 194, 1250 Lisbon.
Avenida das Forças 038, Lisbon. Map 7 B5. Tel 707 203 030.
Armadas, 1600, Lisbon. Tel 210 312 700. ∑ juventude.gov.pt/
Tel 217 273 300. ∑ visitlisboa.com portal
434 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Emergency Numbers
AP Portugal
Avenida Joáo Crisóstomo 30-5°,
1050-127, Lisbon.
Tel 213 303 759.
∑ apportugal.com
British Hospital
Torres de Lisboa,
Fire engine Rua Tomás da Fonseca,
1600-209 Lisbon.
Tel 800 271 271.
General Emergency
(Fire, Police, Ambulance)
Tel 112.
Ordem dos Advogados
Largo de São Domingos 14, 1°,
1169-060 Lisbon.
Tel 218 823 550.
Ambulance Tourist Police
Palácio Foz-Restauradores,
1250-187, Lisbon.
Tel 213 421 623/400 090.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey
in colour) is the smallest, followed
by the €10 note (pink), €20 note
(blue), €50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple). All notes show 5 euros
the stars of the European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and €2;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The €1 and €2 coins are both silver and
gold in colour. The 50, 20 and 10cent coins
are gold. The 5, 2 and 1cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
438 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Portugal, Madeira and Porto Santo, as Lisbon–Faro, but slow on provincial
well as the major Azorean islands, have lines. Trains are inexpensive, especially
airports served by TAP, the national airline, if you are eligible for any of the discounts.
and Azores Airlines (SATA). European Buses are sometimes faster and generally
and other airlines fly to the international offer a wider choice of departures than
airports of Lisbon, Porto, Faro and Funchal, the rail network. Car rental is not cheap
which all get busier during the holiday (pre-arranged package deals are often
season. Charter flights are often the the best value), but it does offer the
cheapest alternative. Portugal’s main- greatest flexibility. Diesel costs less
land rail network is fast and modern on than petrol, while motorway tolls can
busy lines such as Lisbon–Porto and be expensive.
TAP
Lisbon
Tel 707 205 700.
∑ flytap.com
Package Deals
Portuguese National
Tourist Office
11 Belgrave Square, London.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
The spacious check-in area at Porto’s Sá Carneiro Airport
442 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Rail
The Portuguese state railway, Comboios de Portugal (CP),
provides an inexpensive, country-wide network. Quality
of service can vary considerably, however, and while
modernization to the system continues, progress is slow.
The Alfa Pendular trains between Lisbon and Porto, via
Coimbra, and Lisbon and Faro, via Tunes, are fast and
efficient, but for longer journeys, such as Lisbon to Évora,
it may be quicker to take the bus.
Travelling by Train
Most areas of Portugal are
served by rail, although the High-speed Alfa Pendular train at
more remote lines, such as Tua Oriente station in Lisbon
to Mirandela, have sadly been
made obsolete due to new road City Stations
Carved arch over entrance to Lisbon’s Rossio links. A bus service covers any Lisbon has four rail termini.
station (see p86) gaps in the system, although it Santa Apolónia station, on
is wise to confirm that the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
Arriving by Train service you require exists before serves the north and all
There are two main routes into setting off. international destinations.
Portugal by train. The first is to There are several categories Oriente, by the former Expo
travel overnight from Austerlitz of train in Portugal. The most site, Parque das Nações, is on
station in Paris, changing at Irún comfortable and quickest is the the same line as Santa Apolónia
on the French-Spanish border, modern Alfa Pendular, which and serves the south. Entre-
then continuing on to the travels between campos, in the
Portuguese border town of Vilar Lisbon, Coimbra city centre, also
Formoso in the north. The train and Porto, and serves the south.
splits near Coimbra, heading Lisbon, Tunes and For more routes
north for Porto and south for Faro. The Rápido south and east,
Lisbon, coming into Santa Inter-Cidades (IC) is Logo for Comboios de cross the river
Apolónia station. The entire only marginally Portugal (taking a ferry from
journey from London to Lisbon, slower, although less Terreiro do Paço)
using the Eurostar to reach Paris, luxurious, and connects most to catch a train from Barreiro.
takes 30 hours. important towns and cities. Trains for Estoril and Cascais
An alternative is to travel Most smaller towns and villages (a 30-minute trip) leave from
on the overnight train from throughout the country are Cais do Sodré station. The
Madrid, passing through served by the Regional and the suburban Fertagus line runs
Marvão and Santarám, then on Inter-Regional lines. These local south across the river to stations
to Lisbon. Travel from Madrid to lines are slower than the Rápido along the Lisbon coast.
Lisbon takes ten hours. The Rail and Alfa Pendular, with fewer Rossio station, near Praça dos
Europe website provides more facilities, but they stop at many Restauradores, serves Sintra and
details on trains and facilities. more stations. stations along the coast as far
north as Figueira da Foz. Care
should be taken on the Lisbon
to Sintra line at night.
Coimbra has two mainline
stations: trains from Lisbon and
Porto stop at Coimbra B, a five-
minute shuttle ride from the
central Coimbra.
Porto has two mainline
stations: international and long-
distance trains come into
Campanhã, to the east of the
city; regional and suburban
trains come into São Bento in
the centre. From here there is a
shuttle service to Campanhã
station. The former rail station at
Exterior of station at Santiago do Cacém with azujelo decoration Trindade is now a metro station.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 443
Driving in Portugal
Portugal’s road network includes an expanding motorway
system, but some older main roads may be in need of repair,
while minor roads can be very rough and tortuous. Traffic
jams are a problem in and near cities. Never attempt driving
in the rush hour, and be wary of reckless Portuguese drivers.
Always carry your passport, licence, logbook or rental
contract, and car insurance. Failure to produce these A steep road near Gouveia in the Serra da
documentos if the police stop you will incur a fine. It’s Estrela (see pp224–5)
obligatory for drivers and passengers to don green
avoiding motorway tolls, and
fluorescent vests following a breakdown or an accident. they can be slow as a result.
In addition, drivers must carry a collapsible warning triangle Always fill up with petrol
in the trunk to be used in the event of such an emergency. in town before setting off,
because petrol stations can
be scarce in remote areas.
Arriving by Car and mainland Portugal. The best road maps are those
The quickest route is to cross Similarly, there are no ferry published by Michelin or the
the French–Spanish border at services from the mainland Portuguese motoring
Irún and then take the E80 via to the Azores. organization, the ACP
Valladolid to Vilar Formoso in Driving time may also be (Automóvel Clube de Portugal).
Portugal. To go to Lisbon or reduced by using the Motorail
the Algarve, turn off at Burgos, link from Paris Gare d’Austerlitz
head for Cáceres and then on to Lisbon, a twice-weekly Rules of the Road
to Badajoz. service. Drivers load their cars Traffic drives on the right-
Taking the car ferry to one day, travel by passenger hand side, continental rules
northern Spain from the UK train the next, and pick up of the road apply and the
reduces time on the road, but their cars on the third day. international sign system is
crossings are extremely long: Check the Autotrain website used. Unless there are signs
24 hours to Santander and for more information. to the contrary, traffic from
35 hours to Bilbao. Brittany the right has priority at squares,
Ferries travels to Santander, crossroads and junctions.
leaving from Plymouth once a Travelling Around by Car Cars on roundabouts travel
week and Portsmouth twice Major roads include EN (Estrada anticlockwise, and have priority
a week throughout the year. Nacional) roads, many of which over waiting traffic. There is
Brittany Ferries also operates have been upgraded to either very little advance warning
a route from Portsmouth to IP (Itinerário Principal) or IC of pedestrian crossings.
Bilbao twice a week. There are (Itinerário Complementar) It is compulsory to use a
currently no car ferry services roads. IP roads are much seatbelt, and the blood-alcohol
operating between Madeira used by heavy goods lorries limit is 0.05 per cent. Speed
limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in
towns and 90 kph (55 mph)
on other roads, and 120 kph
(74 mph) on motorways.
Breaking the speed limit incurs
an on-the-spot fine, as does
talking on a mobile phone
while driving.
DIRECTORY
London
Eurolines
Victoria Coach Station, 164
Buckingham Palace Road,
A Rodonorte coach, which covers the far north of the country London. Tel 0871 781 8178.
∑ eurolines.co.uk
Getting to Portugal Information on routes and
by Coach prices is available from tourist Northern Portugal
Travelling to Portugal by coach is offices and travel agencies.
Rede Expressos
cheap but very time-consuming.
Rodoviário no Porto Campo 24
Eurolines runs a weekly summer de Agosto, Porto. Tel 707 223 344.
service from Victoria Coach ∑ rede-expressos.pt
Station in London to Porto. Coach Tours
Passengers change in Area Suco Bus, coach and minibus tours Renex
in central Spain, and the journey around Lisbon and Porto are R Campo Mártires da Pátria 37,
Porto. Tel 222 003 395.
takes 34 hours in total. The plentiful. Cityrama runs sight-
∑ renex.pt
London-to-Lisbon service, which seeing tours of Lisbon and its
runs all year, takes even longer. coast, and day trips to sights Rodonorte
Passengers change in Paris and such as Batalha, Sintra and Rua Dom
spend two nights on the coach. Mafra. It also offers a night-time António Valente da Fonseca 104,
tour of the city, taking in the Vila Real. Tel 259 340 710.
∑ rodonorte.pt
Jerónimos monastery and then
Travelling dinner with a fado show. From
Around by Coach Lisbon
Porto, it runs tours of the Minho
Coach operators in Portugal and Douro valleys, and a six-day Cityrama/Gray Line
include Renex, which links Faro, trip to Lisbon. Gray Line, part of Avenida João XXI 78e, 1000-304
Lisbon, Porto and Braga, and EVA, Cityrama, also offers day trips Lisbon. Tel 213 191 090.
which focuses on the Algarve. ∑ cityrama.pt
Rodoviária de Lisboa connects Renex
Lisbon with Estremadura. In Vila Gare do Oriente.
Real, Rodonorte covers the Tel 218 956 836. ∑ renex.pt
extreme north, and Rede
Rodoviária de Lisboa
Expressos, based in Porto, covers Terminal Rodoviária de Sete Rios,
the inland areas of Portugal. Praça Marechal Humberto
The Terminal Rodoviária de Delgado, Estrada das Laranjeiras,
Sete Rios, located in Lisbon’s Sete Rios. Tel 213 529 883.
Sete Rios district, is the city’s
main bus station and the hub Algarve
for the main intercity coach
EVA
routes of Portugal. In Porto,
Avenida da República 5, Faro.
the main departure and arrival
Tel 289 899 700.
points is at Rodoviário no A Cityrama hop-on hop-off sightseeing ∑ eva-bus.com
Porto Campo 24 de Agosto. tour bus in Lisbon
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 447
Faial
Pico São Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Santa Maria
448 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Tickets in Lisbon
Bus, tram, metro and funicular
tickets are all the same and
can be bought from any Carris
kiosk. The basic multitrip Carris
ticket is for two journeys and
Antique red tram operating the Linha do Tejo tour in Lisbon valid for an unlimited number
of days. The other option is a
ticket valid for 24 hours. The
Metro has its own system, and
tickets cost €1.45 for one
journey on the whole network.
There are also passes known
as Viva Viagem cards, as well
as combined Carris/Metro
1-day tickets for €6.15
(includes €0.50 cost of Viva
Viagem card). This card can be
recharged at ticket machines.
No.15, Lisbon’s long, streamlined tram
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 449
Colégio Telheiras
Cidade Alvalade Olivais
Militar/Luz Universitária
Alto dos Entre Chelas
Moinhos Laranjeiras Roma
Campos
Jardim Zoolôgico Bela Vista
Campo Areeiro
São Pequeno
Praça de Sebastião Olaias
Espanha
Saldanha Alameda
Key Picoas Arroios
Parque
Linha azul Marquês de Pombal
Anjos
Linha amarela
Rato Avenida Intendente
Linha verde
Martim Moniz
Linha vermelha
Restauradores Rossio
Linha azul extension Terreiro Santa
do Paço Apolónia
Interchange station Cais do Sodré
Baixa-Chiado
450 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Afonso Henriques (Afonso I), Alcântara, Battle of 54
main entries. King (cont.) Alcobaça 15, 148, 184–5
Guimarães 286 history 47, 49
A Lamego 256 restaurants 403
Abbeys see Monasteries and Leiria 187 tombs of Pedro I and Inês de
convents Minho 269 Castro 48–9, 185
Abd al Rahman 46 Óbidos 181 Alcochete 24, 155, 169
Abrantes 194 Palácio Nacional de Sintra Alcoforado, Mariana, Lettres
restaurants 403 165 Portugaises 317
Abrantes, Marquês de 106 São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) Alcoutim 337
Absolutists 41 74 Aldeamento Turístico (tourist
Addresses (house numbering) Sé (Lisbon) 76 villages) 382
439 tomb 208, 211 Alegrete 300
Admission charges 431 Afonso Sanches, Dom 278 Alenquer 199
Adoration of the Magi (Grão Africa Alenquer, Pêro de 199
Vasco) 52 Portuguese colonies 58–9, Alentejo 22, 296–319
Afonso I, King see Afonso 60–61 climate 39
Henriques voyages of discovery 52–3 hotels 393
Afonso II, King 42, 175 Age of Absolutism 56–7 map 298–9
Afonso III, King 42, 48 Age of Discovery 25, 28, 52–3 restaurants 409–11
deposes Sancho II 48 Monument to the Discoveries Romans in the Alentejo 311
Estremoz 306 (Lisbon) 110–11 A Tour of Medieval Portugal
Faro 48, 332 Agroturismo 382 11, 16
Leiria 187 Água, Museu da (Lisbon) 122 travel 299
Monsaraz 313 Águas Livres Aqueduct vernacular architecture 26–7
Vila Nova de Gaia 253 (Lisbon) 56–7, 126 what to eat 294–5
Afonso IV, King 42 Air travel 440–41 wines 32–3
murder of Inês de Castro 185 internal flights 441 Alexander the Great 120, 121
Porto de Mós 186 travelling around the islands Alfama (Lisbon) 12, 70–81
tomb 76 447 area map 71
war with Pedro I 49 Airports 440 hotels 386
Afonso V, King 42 Alandroal 306 restaurants 398
captures Arzila 50 restaurants 409 street-by-street map 72–3
marriage 181 Alani 45 Alfândega Velha (Funchal) 351
Monument to the Discoveries Albergarias (inns) 380 Alfonso VI, King of León and
(Lisbon) 111 Albernõa, restaurants 410 Castile 47
portrait of 101 Albert, Cardinal-Archduke of Algar do Carvão 371
Afonso VI, King 43, 55 Austria 54 Algarve 21, 320–37
Palácio Nacional de Sintra 165 Albert, Prince Consort 167 beaches 292–3
Afonso, Dom (son of João I) 282 Albufeira 21, 323, 329 climate 39
Afonso, Jorge 174 hotels 393 festivals 34, 36
Apparition of Christ to the restaurants 411 flowers of the Western
Virgin 64 Albufeira, Lagoa do 169 Algarve 325
Afonso Henriques (Afonso I), Albuquerque, Afonso de golf 426–7
King 42 captures Goa 50, 51 history 48
Alcobaça 148, 184 cenotaph (Lisbon) 75 hotels 393–5
Battle of Ourique 46, 47 Praça Afonso de Albuquerque map 322–3
Battle of São Mamede 47 (Lisbon) 104, 105 One Week in Southern
Cárquere 255 Albuquerque, Brás de 75 Portugal 11, 17
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) Albuquerque, Dom João de regional food 295
163 206 restaurants 411–13
Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) Alcácer do Sal 175 travel 323
80–81 hotels 387 vernacular architecture 26–7
Coimbra 208, 210 restaurants 401 Algarve Nature Week 34
declares independence 41 Alcácer-Quibir, Battle of 51 Alijó 14, 259
defeats Moors 46, 47, 310 Alcañices Treaty 221 restaurants 406
GENERAL INDEX 451
Aljezur 17, 324 Anne of Hertford 356 Arrábida, Serra da see Serra da
Aljubarrota, Battle of 50, 148, Antiga Confeitaria de Belém Arrábida
286 (Lisbon) 12, 105 Arraiolos 307
Batalha 188, 189 Antigo Paço Episcopal (Braga) carpets 417
All Saints’ Day 36, 37 282 Arrifana, beach 292, 324
Almancil 330 Antique shops 129, 419 The Arrival of the Relics of Santa
hotels 393–4 António, Lino 256 Auta at the Church of Madre
restaurants 411 Antony of Padua, St (Santo de Deus 29
Almançor, River 307 António) 76, 327 Arruda, Diogo de 28, 192–3
Almeida 221, 222 Museu Antoniano (Lisbon) 77 Arruda, Francisco de
hotels 389 Santo António (Lagos) 327 Aqueduto da Água de Prata
restaurants 404 Santo António à Sé (Lisbon) (Évora) 311
Almeida, António de 56 77 Aqueduto da Amoreira
Almeida, Leopoldo de 87 Apart-hotels 380 (Elvas) 303
Almeida family 194 Apartamentos turísticos 382 Manueline architecture 28
Almeirim 196 Apparition of Christ to the Virgin Nossa Senhora da Assunção
restaurants 403 (Afonso) 64 (Elvas) 303
Almendres 298 Aquariums Art see Artists by name;
Almograve 318 Museu Oceanográfico Museums and galleries
Almohad dynasty 47, 48 (Portinho da Arrábida) 173 Arunce, King 215
Almondo, River 195 Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon) Arzila 50
Almoravid dynasty 47 12, 123 Assumption Day 37, 233
Almourol, Castelo de 195 Aqueduto da Água de Prata Atlantic Coastline, A Tour of the
Alpiarça 196 (Évora) 311 10, 15
Alte 17, 329 Aqueduto das Águas Livres ATMs 436
hotels 394 (Lisbon) 56–7, 126 Augustus, Emperor 45, 214
Alte, River 329 Aqueduto da Amoreira (Elvas) Autódromo Internacional do
Alter do Chão 302 303 Algarve 328
Alter Real horses 302 Aquinas, St Thomas 332 Autumn 36
Alto Alentejo, climate 39 Arabs 46 Avante! (Seixal) 36
Alto das Caravelas 261 Arade, River 328 Ave, River 254
Alto da Memória 371 Araújo, José Ferreira 213 Aveiras, Conde de 106
Alto do Trevim 215 Archaeology see Museums and Aveiro 10, 15, 31, 200, 201,
Alto do Velão 261 galleries; Prehistoric Portugal; 206–7
Álvares, Baltasar 54 Roman Empire festivals 35, 37
Álvares Fagundes, João 280 Architecture hotels 390
Alves, Diogo 126 azulejos 25, 30–31 restaurants 404
Alvito 313 Gothic 51 Aveiro, Ria de 202, 206, 207
restaurants 410 Manueline 25, 28–9, 108–9 Avelar, Dom Francisco Gomes
Alvito, Barão de 313 triangular houses of Santana do 332
Alvor 327 357 Avenida (Lisbon) see Baixa and
Amarante 14, 254–5 vernacular 26–7 Avenida
festivals 35 Arco de Almedina (Coimbra) Avenida da Liberdade (Lisbon)
hotels 391 209 12, 86
restaurants 406 Arco da Rua Augusta (Lisbon) Avis, House of 42, 50–51, 189
Amarante, Carlos 284 89 Alandroal 306
Ambulances 434, 435 Arcos de Valdevez 273 Almeirim 196
Amélia, Queen 106, 110 restaurants 408 Avis, João of see João I
Amieira 16, 313 Arganil 215 Azambuja, Diogo de 205
Al Andalus 46 Armação de Pera, restaurants Azenhas do Mar 159
Andrade, António de 54 411 Azores 22, 364–77
Anes, Gonçalo 220 Armed Forces Movement climate 38
Anes, Pêro 352 (MFA) 61, 89 discovery of 52
Angola 59, 61 Armona 335 festivals 34, 374
Angra do Heroísmo 367, 370–71 Arouca 204 golf 427
Anjos 370 Arouce, River 214 Holy Spirit festivals 372
452 GENERAL INDEX
Boitac, Diogo Brasileira, Café (Lisbon) 92, 95 Cabral, Gonçalo Velho 368
Batalha 29 Bravães 273 Cabral, Pedro Álvares
Ermida de São Jerónimo Bravura dam 322 Belmonte 223
(Lisbon) 113 Brazil 50 discovery of Brazil 52
Igreja de Jesus (Setúbal) 174 discovery of 41, 52 Monument to the Discoveries
Igreja Matriz (Golegã) 196 Dutch in 54, 55 (Lisbon) 111
Igreja do Populo (Caldas da gold discovered in 55 tomb 197
Rainha) 181 independence 58 Cabral, Sacadura 60
Manueline architecture 28 Breakdown services 445 Cabral family 223
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Brejoeira Palace 269 Cabril, River 261
(Lisbon) 108 Bridges Cacela Velha 323, 336
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 60, Cachorro 375
Sé (Guarda) 223 116 Caesar, Julius 197, 317
A Bola (newspaper) 25 Ponte de Dom Luís I (Porto) Caetano, Marcelo 61, 89
Bolo rei 37, 233 13, 248–9 Café Brasileira (Lisbon) 92, 95
Bom Jesus do Monte 10, 14, 56, Ponte Marechal Carmona 198 Café Ritz (Funchal) 350
230, 284–5 Roman Bridge (Ponte de Cafés 397
hotels 392 Lima) 278 Cakes 37, 233
pilgrimage to 34 Brissos 312 Cake shops 397
Book shops 128–9 Buçaco 149, 216–17 Calatrava, Santiago 123
Border Castles Tour (Beiras) 222 hotels 390 Caldas do Gerês 276
Bosch, Hieronymus, The map 216–17 Caldas de Monchique 17, 325
Temptations of St Antony 100 restaurants 404 Caldas da Rainha 181
Botelho Mourão, António José Buçaco, Battle of 58, 217 hotels 389
260 Budget accommodation 382, restaurants 403
Botero, Fernando 117 383 Caldeira (Faial) 376
Boticas 262 Budget flights 441 Caldeira de Guilherme Moniz
Boucher, François 121 Bull-running 371
Braga 10, 14, 269, 282–3 Terceira 370 Caldeira das Sete Cidades 345
festivals 34, 232 Vila Franca de Xira 198 Caldeirão, Lagoa do 377
hotels 392 Bullfighting 25, 150–51, 421 Caldeiras das Furnas 341, 344,
map 283 Campo Pequeno (Lisbon) 369
restaurants 408 122 Calderas 345
Bragança 231, 264–5 Coruche 198 Calheta 362, 373
citadel 264–5 Santarém 197 Camacha 354
festivals 37 Bureaux de change 436 Câmara, João Gonçalves de 352
hotels 391 Burgundy, Henry of see Henry Câmara, Simão Gonçalves de
restaurants 406 of Burgundy 352
Bragança, Afonso, 1st Duke of Burgundy, House of 42 Câmara de Lobos 363
264, 305 Buses restaurants 413
Barcelos 279 bus tours 448, 449 Câmara Municipal (Funchal) 351
birth 223 in cities 448 Câmara Municipal (Sintra) 162
Paço dos Duques for the disabled 431–2, 433 Cambridge, Earl of 313
(Guimarães) 286 Bussaco Palace Hotel 29, 32, 217 Caminha 272
Bragança, Catherine of see Bust of St Catherine(?) (van der restaurants 408
Catherine of Bragança Weyden) 118, 120 Camões, Luís Vaz de 50, 194
Bragança, Dukes of 305 Byron, Lord 161 Casa Memória de Camões
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 291, (Constância) 194
304–5 C Monument to the Discoveries
Vila Viçosa 286, 305 Cabanas, hotels 394 (Lisbon) 111
Bragança, Fernando, 3rd Duke Cabeça da Neve 218 Os Lusíadas 24, 51, 158, 194,
of 305 Cabeça do Velho 224 311
Bragança, Jaime, 4th Duke of Cabeceiras de Basto 287 Camões Day 37
305 Cabo Carvoeiro 180 Camping 382–3
Bragança, João, 2nd Duke of Cabo Espichel 169 Campo Maior 302
see João IV, King Cabo Girão 363 restaurants 410
Bragança dynasty 43, 305 Cabo da Roca 156, 160 Campo Pequeno (Lisbon) 122
tomb 74 Cabo de São Vicente 11, 17, 325 Canal de São Roque (Aveiro)
Braganza see Bragança Cabral, Fernão 223 200
454 GENERAL INDEX
Douro and Trás-os-Montes England, João I’s alliance with Estremoz 16, 298, 306–7
(cont.) 50–51 festivals 34
restaurants 406–8 English Cemetery (Lisbon) 97 hotels 393
travel 241 Enrique II, King of Castile 337 restaurants 410
vernacular architecture 26 Enrique, Prince of Castile 204 Estufa Fria (Parque Eduardo VII,
wines 32–3, 57 Entertainment 420–21 Lisbon) 117
Dovecotes of Montesinho 266 fado 25, 68–9 Etiquette 431
Dressage 150 Lisbon 130–31 The Euro 437
Drinks Epiphany 37 Europe, map 19
coffee drinking 397 Ericeira 159 European Union
in restaurants 397 hotels 388 Centro Cultural de Belém
see also Food and drink; Port; Ermelo 261 (Lisbon) 110
Wine Ermida de São Jerónimo Portugal joins 23, 25, 60–61
Driving in Portugal 444–5 (Lisbon) 113 Eusébio 60
The Drunkards (Malhôa) 59 Eschwege, Baron von 166 Évora 11, 16, 45, 290, 308–11,
Duarte, King 42 Escola Portuguesa de Arte 312
Batalha 188, 189 Equestre (Lisbon) 150 hotels 393
Leal Conselheiro 50 Escola de Rendas (Vila do restaurants 410
Duarte, Alfredo 69 Conde) 278 street-by-street map 308–9
Duas Igrejas 266 Espaço Cultural – Museu Évoramonte 307
Duchamp, Marcel 311 Municipal de Portalegre 301 Expo ’98 61, 123
Dupra, Domenico 304 Espadacinta 267
Durand, Antoine Sébastien 118 Espigueiros (granaries) 230, F
Durão Barroso, José Manuel 43 274–5, 277 Fabri, Francesco 84, 86
Dürer, Albrecht, St Jerome 98, Espinho, hotels 391 Factory, sugar (Calheta) 362
100 Essex, Earl of 332 Fado 25, 68–9
Estádio José Alvalade (Lisbon) O Fado (Malhôa) 69
E 131 Lisbon 65, 130
Eanes, Gil Estádio da Luz (Lisbon) 117, Faial 338–9, 367, 376
expeditions 52 131 hotels 395
Lagos 326 Estado Novo (New State) 60 restaurants 415
Sagres 326 Estalagens (inns) 380 Fajã Grande 377
Earthquake, Lisbon 56, 66–7 Esteves, Pedro 286 Fajãzinha 377
Easter 34, 232 Estoi 17, 331 Falperra 283
Economy 22–3 hotels 394 Family life 24
Edla, Countess Elise 167 Estoi, Viscount of 331 Fantasporto (Porto) 37
Edward III, King of England 51 Estombar, restaurants 412 Farinha, Monte 287
Edward VII, King of England 117 Estoril 168–9 Faro 11, 17, 291, 332–4
Eiffel, Gustave 59, 88, 248 hotels 388 airport 440
Eira do Serrado 360 restaurants 401–2 history 46–7, 48
Eleanor of Aragon 101 Estrada de Escarpa 173 hotels 394
Electricity 433 Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, map 333
Elevador do Carmo (Lisbon) see festivals 36 railway station 443
Elevador de Santa Justa Estrela, Serra da see Serra da restaurants 412
Elevador da Glória (Lisbon) 84, Estrela tourist information office 433
448, 449 Estrela district (Lisbon) see under Moorish rule 46–7
Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon) Bairro Alto and Estrela Faro Jewish Heritage Centre 334
12, 65, 82, 88, 93, 448 Estremadura and Ribatejo 21, Farol 335
Elvas 11, 16, 291, 302–3 176–99 Fátima 24, 190
festivals 36 bullfighting 150 hotels 389
fortifications 303 climate 38 pilgrimages 34, 36
hotels 393 hotels 388–9 restaurants 403
map 303 map 178–9 vision of Virgin Mary 60, 190
restaurants 410 regional food 153 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 75, 417
War of Independence 54–5 restaurants 403–4 Feira Medieval de Silves 35
Email 438–9 travel 178 Feira Nacional da Agricultura
Embassies 433 vernacular architecture (Santarém) 35
Embroidery shops 417 26–7 Feira Nacional do Cavalo
Emergencies 434, 435 wines 32–3 (Golegã) 36
GENERAL INDEX 459
Feira de Outubro (Vila Franca Festa de Senhora da Food and drink (cont.)
de Xira) 36 Consolação (Sintra) 36 shops 128, 129, 418, 419
Feira de São Mateus (Elvas) 36 Festa dos Tabuleiros (Tomar) Southern Portugal 294–5
Feiras Novas (Ponte de Lima) 35, 191 Story of Port 234–5
36 Festa das Vindimas (Palmela) 36 wines of Portugal 32–3
Felipe I, King see Philip II, King Festas do Espírito Santo see also Restaurants
of Spain (Azores) see Holy Spirit Football 25, 60
Felipe II, King see Philip III, King festivals Euro 2004 61
of Spain Festas Gualterianas Forrester, Baron Joseph James
Felipe III, King see Philip IV, King (Guimarães) 35 249, 258, 259
of Spain Festas de Lisboa 421 Forts see Castles and
Ferdinand the Great, King of Festival de Gastronomia fortifications
Castile 208, 220 (Santarém) 36 Foz, Marquês de 86
Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg- Festival do Marisco (Olhão) 35 Foz do Minho 272
Gotha (Dom Fernando II) Festivals 24, 34–7 Foz de Odeleite 337
121, 167 festivals of the North 232–3 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 121
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) Holy Spirit festivals in the França 266
163 Azores 372 Francis of Assisi, St 76
Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 166 see also Festa; Romerias Francis Xavier, St 94
Parque da Pena 163 FIAPE (Estremoz) 34 Franciscan Order 76
Fernandes, Inês 223 Fielding, Henry 97 Franco, General Francisco 60
Fernandes, Mateus 189 Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo 222 Franco, Francisco (sculptor) 350
Fernandes, Vasco see Grão, Figueira da Foz 202, 205 Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116
Vasco hotels 390 Franco, Zé 158
Fernandine Wall (Porto) 245 restaurants 405 Freixo de Espada à Cinta 267
Fernando I, King 42 Figueirinha 173 Frey Carlos of Évora 100, 249
death 48, 189 Films see Cinema Fronteira, João de Mascarenhas,
Évora 311 Fire services 434, 435 Marquês de 127
Fernandine Walls (Porto) 245 Fisgas de Ermelo 261 Fronteira, Palácio see Palácio
marriage 49 Fishing Fronteira
Monsaraz 313 holidays 423–4, 425 Funchal 341, 348, 350–53
peace of Alcoutim 337 Museu Marítimo e Regional airport 440
Fernando II, Dom see Ferdinand de Ílhavo (Aveiro) 206–7 day tour of 13
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Olhão 334 festivals 34, 35, 36, 37
Fernão, Infante 101 Sesimbra 172 hotels 395
Ferragudo, restaurants 412 Flor da Rosa monastery restaurants 413–14
Ferreira, Adam Gonçalves 354 (pousada) 301 street-by-street map 350–51
Ferries 444, 445 Flora Funda, Lagoa 377
Azores 447 Flower Festival (Funchal) 34 Fundação Abel e João de
Fervença, River 231, 265 Flowers of Madeira 342–3 Lacerda (Caramulo) 218
Festa da Coca (Monção) 35 Flowers of the Western Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
Festa do Colete Encarnado Algarve 325 (Lisbon) 130, 131
(Vila Franca de Xira) 35, 198 see also Nature reserves; Parks see also Museu Calouste
Festa das Cruzes (Barcelos) 34, and gardens Gulbenkian
232, 279 Flores 338–9, 377 Fundação Eugénio de Almeida
Festa do Espírito Santo (Azores) restaurants 415 (Évora) 308, 311
34 Flying 423, 425 Fundação Oriente Museu
Festa das Latas (Coimbra) 36 Fogo, Lagoa do 369 (Lisbon) 116
Festa da Nossa Senhora da Boa Fóia 324 Fundação de Serralves Museu
Viagem (Peniche) 35 Folk dance 25, 233 de Arte Contemporâna
Festa dos Rapazes (Bragança) Folk music 130–31 (Porto) 13, 252
37 Fonte Mourisca (Sintra) 162 Funicular railways 448
Festa da Ria (Aveiro) 35 Fonte da Subuga (Sintra) 162 Bom Jesus do Monte 284
Festa de São Gonçalinho Food and drink Elevador da Glória (Lisbon) 84
(Aveiro) 37 Central Portugal 152–3 Furado Grande 180
Festa de São Gonçalo coffee 397 Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa)
(Amarante) 35 Madeira wine 355 373
Festa do Senhor Santo Cristo dos Northern Portugal 236–7 Furna do Enxofre (Terceira) 371
Milagres (Ponta Delgada) 34 Serra cheese 221, 224 Furna Maria Encantada 373
460 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Grutas e Centro do Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Museu de Lamego 257
Vulcanismo de São Vicente Coleção do Fundador12, 65, Museu da Lisboa (Lisbon) 123
362 118–21 Museu Luso-Hebraico de
José Saramago Foundation Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Abraham Zacuto (Tomar) 191
(Lisbon) 75 Colecao Moderna 122 Museu de Marinha (Lisbon)
Lisboa Story Centre 89 Museu do Caramulo 218 110
Mértola vila museu 319 Museu Cargaleiro (Castelo Museu da Marioneta (Lisbon)
MUDE (Lisbon) 88 Branco) 227 95
Museu Abade de Baçal Museu Carlos Machado Museu Marítimo (Faro) 333
(Bragança) 265 (Ponta Delgada) 368 Museu Marítimo e Regional
Museu Abade Pedrosa (Santo Museu do Carro Eléctrico de Ílhavo (Aveiro) 206–7
Tirso) 254 252 Museu Marquês de Pombal
Museu da Água (Lisbon) 122 Museu de Cerámica (Caldas (Pombal) 187
Museu de Alberto Sampaio da Rainha) 181 Museu Martins Sarmento
(Guimarães) 286 Museu do Côa (Torre de (Guimarães) 286–7
Museu de Aljustrela (Fátima) Moncorvo) 267 Museu Militar (Bragança) 264
190 Museu do Condo de Castro Museu Militar (Buçaco) 216
Museu Amadeo de Souza- Guimarães (Cascais) 168 Museu Militar (Chaves) 262
Cardosa (Amarante) 255 Museu das Curiosidades Museu Militar (Lisbon) 75
Museu de Angra do (Romeu) 263 Museu Municipal de
Heroísmo 371 Museu do Design e da Moda Estremoz Professor Joaquim
Museu Antoniano (Lisbon) 77 see MUDE (Lisbon) Vermelho 307
Museu de Arqueologia Museu Dom Lopo de Museu Municipal (Faro) 333
(Montemor-o-Novo) 307 Almeida (Abrantes) 194 Museu Municipal (Funchal)
Museu de Arqueologia e Museu do Douro (Peso da 350
Etnografia (Setúbal) 174 Régua) 256 Museu Municipal (Marvão) 300
Museu Arqueológico Museu Episcopal (Beja) 317 Museu Municipal (Óbidos) 181
(Barcelos) 279 Museu da Ericeira 159 Museu Municipal (Porto de
Museu Arqueológico Museu Etnográfico da Mós) 186
(Santarém) 197 Madeira (Ribeira Brava) 363 Museu Municipal (Ribeira
Museu Arqueológico (Silves) Museu de Évora 309, 310 Grande) 368
329 Museu da Fabrica da Balela Museu Municipal (Santiago
Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e do Boqueirao 377 do Cacém) 318
Tecnologia 111 Museu do Fado (Lisbon) 75 Museu Municipal (Torres
Museu de Arte Museu das Flores (Santa Cruz) Vedras) 199
Contemporânea de Elvas 303 377 Museu Municipal (Vila Franca
Museu de Arte Sacra (Braga) Museu dos Fósforos (Tomar) de Xira) 198
282 191 Museu Municipal Armindo
Museu de Arte Sacra Museu Francisco de Lacerda Teixeira Lopes (Mirandela) 263
(Coimbra University) 212 (Calheta) 373 Museu Municipal de Carlos
Museu de Arte Sacra Museu Francisco Tavares Reis (Torres Novas) 195
(Funchal) 351, 352 Proença Júnior (Castelo Museu Municipal Dr José
Museu de Arte Sacra Branco) 227 Formosinho (Lagos) 327
(Monsaraz) 313 Museu da Graciosa (Santa Museu Municipal Dr Santos
Museu das Artes de Sintra 162 Cruz da Graciosa) 373 Rocha (Figueira da Foz) 205
Museu de Artes Decorativas Museu de Grão Vasco (Viseu) Museu Municipal de
Portuguesas (Lisbon) 72, 74 219 Fotografía João Carpinteiro
Museu de Artes Decorativas Museu de Guarda 223 (Elvas) 303
(Viana do Castelo) 281 Museu da Horta 376 Museu Nacional de
Museu do Automóvel Museu da Indústria Baleeira Arqueologia (Lisbon) 104,
(Caramulo) 218 (Pico) 375 107, 108
Museu de Aveiro 206 Museu das Janelas Verdes Museu Nacional de Arte
Museu dos Baleeiros (Lajes) 375 (Lisbon) see Museu Nacional Antiga (Lisbon) 64, 98–101
Museu da Baleia (Caniçal) 356 de Arte Antigua Museu Nacional de Arte
Museu dos Biscainhos Museu José Régio Contemporânea – Museu do
(Minho) 55, 283 (Portalegre) 301 Chiado (Lisbon) 95
Museu do Café (Campo Museu Judaico de Belmonte Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Maior) 302 223 (Lisbon) 30–31, 65, 124–5
GENERAL INDEX 467
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Nazaré 15, 186
Museu Nacional dos Coches Presidential Museum (Lisbon) festivals 36
(Lisbon) 105, 106–7 106 hotels 389
Museu Nacional de História Quinta das Cruzes (Funchal) restaurants 403–4
Natural e da Ciência (Lisbon) 352 Negreiros, José de Almada 60,
86 Watch Museum (Serpa) 316 122
Museu Nacional Machado de Music 420–21 Nelson, Admiral Horatio 325
Castro (Coimbra) 202, 211 fado 25, 68–9 Neolithic people 44
Museu Nacional do Teatro Lisbon 130–31 Nepomuceno, João Maria 29
(Lisbon) 127 shops 128–9 Netherlands 54
Museu Nacional do Traje Muslims 46, 52 New Kingdom 48–9
(Lisbon) 127 Al-Mu’tamid 328 New State (Estado Novo) 60
Museu Oceanográfico (Serra The Mystic Marriage of St New Year 37
de Arrábida) 173 Catherine (Holbein) 98 Newspapers 25, 439
Museu de Olaria (Barcelos) Nightlife 421
279 N Lisbon 131
Museu de Ovar 205 Nabão, River 179 Nobre, Miguel 331
Museu do Patriacado (Lisbon) Namban art 99, 101, 116 Northern Portugal 228–87
74 Napoleon I, Emperor 334 Douro and Trás-os-Montes
Museu de Peniche 180 invasion of Portugal 41 238–67
Museu de Pintura e Escultura Peninsular War 58 festivals 232–3
Martins Correia (Golegã) 196 Nasoni, Niccolò golf 426, 427
Museu de Portimão 328 Bom Jesus (Matosinhios) map 230–31
Museu da Região Flaviense 252 Minho 268–87
(Chaves) 262 Casa de Mateus 260 One Week in Northern
Museu Regional do Algarve Igreja dos Clérigos (Porto) Portugal 10, 14
(Faro) 334 247 Porto 242–53
Museu Regional Rainha Dona Igreja dos Clérigos (Vila Real) regional food 236–7
Leonor (Beja) 317 261 Story of Port 234–5
Museu de Rendas (Vila do National Park, Peneda-Gerês Nossa Senhora see Churches;
Conde) 278 230, 269, 270, 276–7 Romarias
Museu Romântico (Porto) itineraries 10, 14 Noudar 316
249 National Tile Museum (Lisbon)
Museu Rural (Ponte de Lima) 30–31, 65, 124–5 O
278 National Tourist Agencies Óbidos 24, 179, 180–81, 182–3
Museu do São Roque 383 festivals 34
(Lisbon) 93, 94 NATO 60 hotels 389
Museu do Scrimshaw (Horta) Natural History Museum itineraries 10, 15
374, 376 (Lisbon) 86 restaurants 404
Museu Soares dos Reis Nature reserves vernacular architecture 26
(Porto) 248–9 Parque Natural do Alvão 240, Óbidos, Lagoa de 181
Museu da Sociedade de 261 Óbidos Castle 49
Geografia (Lisbon) 85, 87 Parque Natural de Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon)
Museu de Tapeçaria Montesinho 241, 266 12, 123
(Portalegre) 301 Parque Natural da Ria Odiaxere, restaurants 412
Museu dos Terceiros (Ponte Formosa 11, 17, 335 The Old Blandy Wine Lodge
de Lima) 278 Parque Natural das Serras de (Funchal) 13, 353
Museu da Terra de Miranda Aire e Candeeiros 186 Olhão 334–5
(Miranda do Douro) 266 Reserva Natural das Dunas de festivals 35
Museu dos Transportes e São Jacinto 207 restaurants 412
Comunicações (Porto) 246 Reserva Natural do Estuário Oliveira do Hospital 218
Museu do Vinho dos do Sado 174–5 Opening hours
Biscoitos (Biscoitos) 371 Reserva Natural do Estuário banks 436
Museu da Vista Alegre 207 do Tejo 169 museums and churches 431
Núcleo Museológico do Reserva Natural do Paúl de restaurants 396
Tempo (Santarém) 197 Boquilobo 195 shops 128, 416
Núcleo Visigótico 317 Reserva Natural do Sapal 337 tourist information offices
Pavilhão do Conhecimento - Reserva Natural da Serra da 430
Ciencia Viva (Lisbon) 123 Malcata 226 Opera 130, 131, 420, 421
468 GENERAL INDEX
Pavilhão Carlos Lopes (Parque Pessoa, Fernando 60, 122 Pombal 187
Eduardo VII, Lisbon) 117 statue 95 Pombal (dovecote) 266
Pavilhão do Conhecimento - Peter’s Café Sport (Faial) 376 Pombal, Marquês de
Ciencia Viva (Lisbon) 123 Petrol 444, 445 Avenida da Liberdade
Pedra Bolideira 263 Pharmacies 435 (Lisbon) 86
Pedras talhas (hewn stones) 312 Philip II (Felipe I of Portugal), bans Jesuits 57, 210, 310
Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil 58 King of Spain 43, 106 Coimbra University 57, 212
see also Pedro IV, King Castelo de São Filipe Faro 334
Pedro I, King 42, 48 (Setúbal) 174 Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 211
Alter do Chão 302 Spanish Armada 54 Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
and Inês de Castro 49, 185, 265 Philip III (Felipe II of Portugal), (Lisbon) 113
tomb 48–9, 184–5 King of Spain 43 Lisbon earthquake 56, 66–7
Pedro II, King 43, 127 Philip IV (Felipe III of Portugal), Lousã 214
deposes Afonso VI 55 King of Spain 43, 221 Monument to Pombal
Serra da Arrábida 173 Philippa of Lancaster 51, 164 (Lisbon) 117
Pedro III, King 43, 170 tomb 189 Museu Nacional de Arte
Pedro IV, King 43, 74 Phoenicians 44 Antiga (Lisbon) 98
abdication 58 Phrase book 479–80 Peso da Régua 256
Palácio de Queluz 170 Picasso, Pablo 218 Pombal 187
statue 87 Pico 340, 366, 374–5 portrait 56
War of the Two Brothers 58 hotels 395 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 89
Pedro V, King 43, 258 restaurants 415 Praça da Figueira (Lisbon) 87
Penafiel 254 Pico Alto 345, 370 reforms 41, 57
Penalvo do Castelo, hotels 390 Pico do Arieiro 13, 346, 357 and the Távora family 113
Penamacor 226 Pico Ruivo 341, 360 tomb 113
Peneda Mountains 276 Pico da Velha 373 Vila Real de Santo António 337
Peneda-Gerês, Parque Nacional Picota 324 Ponsard, Raoul Mesnier du 88
da 230, 269, 270, 276–7 PIDE (secret police) 60 Ponsul, River 227
Penedono 220 Piero della Francesca 100 Ponta Delgada 367, 368
Penela 214 Pilarte, André 336 airport 440
Penhas Douradas, hotels 390 Pilgrimages festivals 34
Penhas de Saúde 224 Bom Jesus do Monte (Braga) 34 Ponta da Piedade 327
Peniche 15, 180 Fátima 34, 36, 190 Ponta Ruiva 326
festivals 35 Pillement, Jean 249 Ponta de São Lourenço 349, 356
hotels 389 Pinhal de Leiria 187 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 60,
restaurants 404 Pinhão 14, 241, 259 116
Peninha 160 hotels 391 Ponte da Barca 14, 273
Península de Tróia 175 Pinheiro, Bishop António 265 restaurants 409
Peninsular War 58, 243 Pinheiro, Columbano Bordalo Ponte de Dom Luís I (Porto) 13,
Almeida 221 219 59, 248–9
Carrancas Palace (Porto) 248 Pinheiro, Rafael Bordalo 181 Ponte de Lima 14, 278
Celorico da Beira 221 Zé Povinho 58 festivals 36
Lagos regiment 327 Pinhel 222 hotels 392
Lines of Torres Vedras 199 Pinto, Fernão Mendes 54, 205 restaurants 409
Museu Militar (Buçaco) 216 Piódão 203, 218 Ponte Marechal Carmona 198
Pensões 380, 381 Pires, Afonso 333 Ponte Romana (Chaves) 263
Pentecost 34 Pires, Diogo 205 Ponte de Vila Formosa 302
Pereira, Afonso 190 Pires, Diogo the Younger 210 Poor Clares 211, 333
Pereira, Fernão 204 Pires, João 279 Porcelain, Museu da Vista
Pereira, Nuno Álvares 189, 190, Pires, Marcos 212 Alegre (Aveiro) 207
262 Pitões da Júnias Monastery 277 Porches, hotels 394
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 94 Pius XI, Pope 76 Port 231, 234–5
Perestrelo, Bartolomeu 363 Places of worship 433 Baron Forrester 258, 259
Pérignon, Dom 319 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian lodges 253
Personal security 434–5 (Lisbon) 107 Peso da Régua 256
Peso da Régua 14, 256, 258 Plants see Flora Port Country Tour 10, 14,
festivals 233 Poço do Inferno 225 258–9
hotels 391 Police 434, 435 Solar do Vinho do Porto
restaurants 408 Politics 22–3 (Lisbon) 96
470 GENERAL INDEX
Soares da Silva, André (cont.) Stone Age see Prehistoric Terena 22, 306
Nossa Senhora da Lapa Portugal Teresa, Dona (mother of
(Ponte da Barca) 273 Stoop, Dirk 123 Afonso Henriques) 47, 215
Palácio do Raio (Braga) 282 Stuart, Charles 58 tomb 282
Santa Maria Madalena Student traditions (Coimbra) Terras de Basto 287
(Falperra) 283 213 Terreiro do Paço (Lisbon) see
Soares dos Reis, António 248 Student travellers 432, 433 Praça do Comércio
O Desterrado 248, 249 Suevi tribe 44, 45, 269 Terreiro da Sé (Porto) 244
Sobreiro 158 Conimbriga 214 Terrugem, restaurants 411
Socialist Party 61 Porto 249 Terzi, Filippo 54, 74
Sociedade de Geografia, Sugar cane 362 Textiles
Museu da (Lisbon) 85, 87 Summer 35 Museu Nacional do Traje
Sócrates Carvalho Pinto de Sunshine 38–9 (Lisbon) 127
Sousa, José 43, 61 Surfing 422, 425 shops 417
Solar dos Pinheiros (Barcelos) Synagogues Theatres 420, 421
279 Castelo de Vide 301 Lisbon 130, 131
Solar do Vinho do Porto religious services 433 Museu Nacional do Teatro
(Lisbon) 96 Tomar 191 (Lisbon) 127
Solomon, King of Israel 247 Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II
Sortelha 226 T (Lisbon) 85, 87, 130, 131, 378
restaurants 405 Tagus, River 21, 155, 198 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
Soult, Marshal 248, 255 Belém (Lisbon) 103 (Lisbon) 95, 130, 131
Sousa, Aurélia de 265 birds of the Tagus and Sado Theme parks
Sousa, River 254 estuaries 175 Parque Temático de Madeira
Southern Portugal 288–337 estuary 169 (Santana) 357
Alentejo 296–319 Ponte 25 de Abril 116 Portugal dos Pequenitos
Algarve 320–37 Santarém 197 (Coimbra) 211
beaches of the Algarve 292–3 Vila Franca de Xira 198 Theodomir, King of the Suevi
golf 426–7 Tâmega, River 255, 261, 262, 287 249
map 290–91 Tangier 50 Thermal spas 215
One Week in Southern Tascas (taverns) 396 Caldas de Monchique 325
Portugal 11, 17 Tavares (Lisbon) 92 Castelo de Vide 301
regional food 294–5 Tavira 11, 17, 26, 336 Chaves 262, 263
Souza-Cardoso, Amadeo de, hotels 394 Luso 215
Museu Amadeo de Souza- restaurants 413 Vidago 263
Cardoso (Amarante) 255 Tavira, Ilha de 336 “Thieves Market” (Lisbon) 75,
Spain beach 293 417
historical relations with 48–55 Távora, River 220 Tiago, São 47
Spanish Armada 54 Távora family 113, 263 Tickets
Spanish rule 54–5 Taxes, Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment 130, 131
Spas see Thermal spas 416 Lisbon transport 448
Special needs, travellers with Taxis rail travel 443
431–2, 433 in cities 449 Tiles 25, 30–31
Specialist holidays 422–7 disabled travellers 432 Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Speed limits 444 Madeira and the Azores 447 (Lisbon) 30–31, 65, 124–5
Spice trade 53 Teatro see Theatres Time
Spirits, shopping for 128, 129, Teixeira, Tristão Vaz 356 attitude to 24
418, 419 Telephone services 438 time zones 432
Sports Television 25, 439 Tipping, in restaurants 397
Lisbon 131 Telheiro 326 Toboggan, Monte 354
outdoor activities and Temperatures 38–9 Todi, Luísa 174
specialist holidays 422–7 Templars see Knights Templar Toilets 431
Spring 34 The Temptations of St Antony Tolls, motorway 445
Sri Lanka 53 (Bosch) 98, 100 Tomar 149, 179, 190–93
Staircase of the Five Senses (Bom Tennis 424, 425 Convento de Cristo 192–3
Jesus do Monte) 230, 284 Tennyson, Alfred, Lord 377 festivals 35
Staircase of the Three Virtues Terceira 340, 370–71 hotels 389
(Bom Jesus do Monte) 285 hotels 395 restaurants 404
Stick dancing 233 restaurants 415 Tonel 326
474 GENERAL INDEX
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Additional Illustrations
people whose contributions and assistance have made Richard Bonson, Chris Forsey, Chris Orr, Mel Pickering,
the preparation of this book possible. Nicola Rodway.
Additional Contributors
Photography Permissions
Dr Giray Ablay, Paul Bernhardt, Julie Dawn Fox, Mihaela
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for their
Rogalski, Gerry Stanbury, Paul Sterry, Paul Vernon.
assistance and kind permission to photograph at their
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 477
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Universidade De Coimbra, Gabinete De Física/José Pessoa 56tr;
Museu De Cerâmica Das Caldas Da Rainha/José Pessoa 58cla; Espaço Talassa: Gerard Soury 374bl; ET Archive: Naval
Museu Do Chiado 59tl; Col. Jorge De Brito/José Pessoa 66-7t; Col. Museum, Genoa 363br; Wellington Museum 199bc; European
478 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Commission: 437; Greg Evans International: Greg Balfour Pena: 166cla; Palacio Estoril Hotel Golf & Spa: 380cr, 388br;
Evans 293br; Mary Evans Picture Library: 55bl, 67tr, 167bl, Fotografia Cedida Y Autorizada Por El Patrimonio Nacional:
217br; Expo ‘98: 61ca. 46cb; Pictures Colour Library: 416cl; Porto Santo Golfe: Filipe
Pacheco 427cr; Pousadas De Portugal/Grupo Pestana: 384–5
Fotolia: Carson Liu 14tr; ruigsantos 11tr; Mario Savoia 13tl; Jose all, 396cla, 401tl, 402t, 404bl, 406tl, 409tr, 410b, 413br, 415tc;
Ignacio Soto 62-3; Fototeca Internacional, Lisboa: Luís Elvas PraiaGolfe Hotel: 391br.
37cl, 150tr/cr; César Soares 42bl; Luíz O Franquinho/António
Da Costa: 343clb; Fundaçao Da Casa De Bragança: 304t/c/b, Radio Televisão Portuguesa (RTP): 58tr, 59clb, 60tr; RCL,
305bl; Fundaçao Da Casa De Mateus: Nicholas Sapieha 260b; Parede: Rui Cunha 35cl, 131t, 342cr, 343cr, 345cra, 371c,
Fundação Ricardo Do Espírito Santo Silva, Museu-Escola De 372br, 383; Dias Dos Reis: 123tl; Norman Renouf: 380bl, 385b;
Artes Decorativas Portuguesas: 74c. Relais & Chateaux: 399tr; Restaurant Camafeu: 407tr; Reuters:
Marcos Borga 420br; Rex Features: Sipa Press/Michel Ginies
Jorge Galvaõ: 61clb; Geadas Restaurant: 406br; Gerry and 61bl; Manuel Ribeiro: 30t; Riso Restaurant: 397tl, 414tr;
Manuela Breen’s Algarve Airsports Centre: 423br; Getty Images: Rodonorte: 446cla.
AFP/Francisco Leong 434bc; Allsport: Mike Powell 61crb; Paulo
Amorim 261br; DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI 43tl, 50clb, 108br; DEA / S. Harry Smith Horticultural Photographic Collection: 343cla;
VANNINI 167tl; Pedro Gomes 130cr; John Harper 185tl; Richard Solar do Vinho do Porto: 258b; Spectrum Colour Library:
Heathcote 427c; Lonely Planet Images/Holger Leue 353cl; Print 242tr; Tony Stone Images: Tony Arruza 34ca; Shaun Egan 292b;
Collector 47bl; STRINGER / Stringer 60br; Giraudon: 52cla; Graham Finlayson 45crb; Simeone Huber 290bl; John Lawrence
Warren Little 36tl; Guarda Nacional Republicana: 434br. 35br; Ulli Seer 323tl; SuperStock: Album / Oronoz / Album
46-47c; age fotostock/André Gonçalves 16tr, /Igor Gonzalo Sanz
Robert Harding Picture Library: 21b; Jose Antonio Moreno 378-9, /João Almeida 238; Design Pics 331tr; Prisma/Pepper
87bl; Herdade da Retorta: 393br; Hotel Britania: 386bl; Hotel 15tl; Symington Port and Madeira Shippers: Claudio Capone
Convento de Sao Paulo: 411tl; Hotel Do Chiado: 382bl: Hotel 33cl, 235t/cla/bc.
Lusitano: 389tr; Kit Houghton: 36b.
TAP Air Portugal:441tr; Tia Alice Restaurant: 403br; Nigel
Images Colour Library: 232bc; IMAGES OF PORTUGAL: 426cl; Tisdall: 345tl, 368, 369crb, 370tl, 373tl/br, 376c/b; Topham
iStockphoto.com: zulufriend 421tl; José Maria da Fonseca – Picture Source: 60cra; Arquivos Nacionais/Torre Do Tombo:
Vinhos SA: 32tr; Marion Kaplan: 150cla, 233tr/cr; Laurentina 40, 48clb, 273bl; Turihab: Roger Day 382tl.
Restaurante: 401bc; Lusa: António Cotrim 69ca; André Kosters
95tl; Manuel Moura 60cb, 363tl; Luís Vasconcelos 94br. Uva Restaurant at Hotel The Vine: 414bl; Veneza
Restauarant: 412tl; Villa Joya/XN Brand Dynamics: 396bl;
José Manuel: 67br; António Marques: 302clb, 303b; Vintage Lofts: 390tl; Peter Wilson: 34br, 35tr, 60bl, 86tl, 95bl,
Metropolitano De Lisboa: 448cr; John Miller: 29b; Museu 232tr/cl; Wyse Travel Confederation: 432b; The Yeatman
Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisboa: Enamelled Silver Gilt Corsage Restaurant: 408tl.
Ornament, René Lalique © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2011
118ca, 118tr/cb/b, 119t/ca/cb/bl, 120tr/c/bl, 121tr/clb/br; Jacket
Museu Da Cidade, Lisboa: António Rafael 66bl/br; 67cr/bl; Front and Spine – AWL Images: Sabine Lubenow; Back –
Museu Da Marinha, Lisboa: 42br, 60cl, 110b. Dreamstime.com: Sean Pavone.
National Maritime Museum, London: 54cla; Nationalmuseet, Front Endpaper: Juliane Jacobs lcr; Alamy Images: Cro
Copenhagen: 52tr; Naturepress: Juan Hidalgo-Candy Lopesino Magnon rcr; Hideo Kurihara ltr; Wilmar Photography lcr;
36tl; NHPA: Michael Leach 375crb; Jean-Louis Le Moigne 335cr. Corbis: Jose Fuste Raga rbr; Robert Harding World Imagery/
Stuart Forster lbr; Dreamstime.com: Luisafonso lc; Richard
Oceanario De Lisboa: Mafalda Frade 12br; Oporto Golf Club: Semik rbc.; Jose I. Soto rc; Vanessak lcl; SuperStock: age
426br; Orient-Express Services Ltd: 381b, 395tl. fotostock/João Almeida Rtr.
Palácio Nacional de Sintra: PSML_MJS 166clb; PSML_Wilson_ All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further
Pereira 171tl, 171br; PSML-AngeloHornak 165tl; Palacio De information see www.DKimages.com.
Phrase Book
In an Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Socorro! soo-koh-roo I’d like to place an Queria fazer kree-uh fuh-zehr
Stop! Pare! pahr’ international call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-
Call a doctor! Chame um shahm’ ooñ internacional. mah-duh in-ter-
na-see-oo-nahl’
médico! meh-dee-koo a local call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-mah-
Call an ambulance! Chame uma shahm’ oo-muh local. duh loo-kahl’
ambulância! añ-boo-lañ-see-uh Can I leave Posso deixar uma poh-soo day-
Call the police! Chame a shahm’ uh a message? mensagem? shar oo-muh
polícia! poo-lee-see-uh meñ-sah--jayñ
Call the fire brigade! Chame os shahm’ oosh
bombeiros! bom-bay-roosh Shopping
Where is the nearest Há um telefone ah ooñ te-le-fon’ How much Quanto kwañ-too koosh-
telephone? aqui perto? uh-kee pehr-too does this cost? custa isto? tuh eesh-too
Where is the nearest Onde é o ond’ eh oo ohsh- I would like… Queria… kree-uh
hospital? hospital mais pee-tahl’ mysh I’m just Estou só a ver shtoh soh uh vehr
looking. obrigado/a. o-bree-gah-
próximo? pro-see-moo doo/uh
Do you take Aceita cartões uh-say-tuh
Communication Essentials credit cards? de crédito? kar-toinsh de
kreh-dee-too
Yes Sim seeñ What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
No Não nowñ do you open? abre? ah-bre
Please Por favor/ poor fuh-vor What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
do you close? fecha? fay-shuh
Faz favor fash fuh-vor This one Este ehst’
Thank you Obrigado/da o-bree-gah-doo/duh That one Esse ehss’
Excuse me Desculpe dish-koolp’ expensive caro kah-roo
Hello Olá oh-lah cheap barato buh-rah-too
Goodbye Adeus a-deh-oosh size (clothes/shoes) tamanho ta-man-yoo
white branco brañ-koo
Good morning Bom-dia boñ dee-uh black preto preh-too
Good afternoon Boa-tarde boh-uh tard’ red vermelho ver-melh-yoo
Good night Boa-noite boh-uh noyt’ yellow amarelo uh-muh-reh-loo
Yesterday Ontem oñ-tayñ green verde vehrd’
Today Hoje ohj’ blue azul uh-zool’
Tomorrow Amanhã ah-mañ-yañ
Here Aqui uh-kee Types of Shop
There Ali uh-lee
antique shop loja de loh-juh de añ-tee-
What? O quê? oo keh
Which? Qual? kwahl’ antiguidades gwee-dahd’sh
When? Quando? kwañ-doo bakery padaria pah-duh-ree-uh
Why? Porquê? poor-keh bank banco bañ-koo
Where? Onde? oñd’ bookshop livraria lee-vruh-ree-uh
butcher talho tah-lyoo
cake shop pastelaria pash-te-luh-ree-uh
Useful Phrases chemist farmácia far-mah-see-uh
How are you? Como está? koh-moo shtah fishmonger peixaria pay-shuh-ree-uh
Very well, Bem, bayñ o-bree-gah- hairdresser cabeleireiro kab’-lay-ray-roo
thank you. obrigado/da. doo/duh market mercado mehr-kah-doo
Pleased to Encantado/a. eñ-kañ-tah-doo/ newsagent quiosque kee-yohsk’
meet you. duh post office correios koo-ray-oosh
See you soon. Até logo. uh-teh loh-goo shoe shop sapataria suh-puh-tuh-ree-uh
That’s fine. Está bem. shtah bayñ supermarket supermercado soo-pehr-mer-
Where is/are…? Onde ond’ shtah/ kah-doo
está/estão…? shtowñ tobacconist tabacaria tuh-buh-kuh-ree-uh
travel agency agência de uh-jen-see-uh de
How far is it to…? A que distância uh kee dish-tañ- viagens vee-ah-jayñsh
fica…? see-uh fee-kuh
Which Como se vai koh-moo seh vy
way to…? para…? puh-ruh Sightseeing
Do you speak Fala inglês? fah-luh eeñ- cathedral sé seh
English? glehsh church igreja ee-gray-juh
I don’t understand. Não compreendo. nowñ kom-pree-eñ-doo garden jardim jar-deeñ
Could you speak Pode falar pohd’ fuh-lar library biblioteca bee-blee-oo-teh-kuh
more slowly mais devagar mysh d’-va-gar museum museu moo-zeh-oo
please? por favor? poor fuh-vor tourist infor- posto de posh-too d’
I’m sorry. Desculpe. dish-koolp’ mation office turismo too-reesh-moo
closed for fechado para fe-sha-doo puh-ruh
Useful Words holidays férias feh-ree-ash
bus station estação de shta-sowñ d’ oh-
big grande grañd’
autocarros too-kah-roosh
small pequeno pe-keh-noo
hot quente keñt’ railway station estação de shta-sowñ d’
cold frio free-oo comboios koñ-boy-oosh
good bom boñ
bad mau mah-oo Staying in a Hotel
quite a lot/enough bastante bash-tañt’ Do you have a Tem um tayñ ooñ kwar-
well bem bayñ vacant room? quarto livre? too leevr’
open aberto a-behr-too room with um quarto com ooñ kwar-too
closed fechado fe-shah-doo a bath casa de banho koñ kah-zuh
left esquerda shkehr-duh d’ bañ-yoo
right direita dee-ray-tuh shower duche doosh
straight on em frente ayñ freñt’ single room quarto kwar-too een-dee-
near perto pehr-too individual vee-doo-ahl’
far longe loñj’ double room quarto de casal kwar-too d’ kuh-
up para cima pur-ruh see-muh zahl’
down para baixa pur-ruh buy-shoo twin room quarto com duas kwar-too koñ doo-
early cedo seh-doo camas ash kah-mash
late tarde tard’ porter porteiro poor-tay-roo
entrance entrada eñ-trah-duh
exit saída sa-ee-duh key chave shahv’
toilets casa de banho kah-zuh d’ bañ-yoo I have a Tenho um tayñ-yoo ooñ
more mais mysh reservation. quarto kwar-too-
less menos meh-noosh reservado. re-ser-vah-doo
480 PHRASE BOOK