DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Portugal, 3rd Edition

eyewitness travel
PortugaL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
PORTUGAL
Main Contributor Martin Symington
Project Editor Ferdie McDonald
Art Editor Vanessa Hamilton
Editors Caroline Ball, Francesca Machiavelli
Introducing Lisbon
Designers Anthea Forlee, Carolyn Hewitson, Portugal
Nicola Rodway, Dutjapun Williams
Main Contributors Susie Boulton,
Discovering Portugal 10 Introducing Lisbon 64
Christopher Catling, Clive Gilbert, Marion
Kaplan, Sarah McAlister, Alice Peebles, Carol
Rankin, Norman Renouf, Joe Staines, Robert Putting Portugal on Alfama 70
Strauss, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall, the Map 18
Tomas Tranæus, Edite Vieira Baixa and Avenida 82
Photographers Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, A Portrait of Portugal 20
Robert Reichenfeld, Linda Whitwam, Peter Bairro Alto and Estrela 90
Wilson, Francesca Yorke Portugal Through the
Illustrators Richard Draper, Paul Guest, Year 34 Belém 102
Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, Maltings
Partnership, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas/
The History of Further Afield 114
Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.,Paul
Weston, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward Portugal 40
Shopping in Lisbon 128
Printed and bound in China
First published in the UK in 1997 by Dorling Entertainment in
Kindersley Limited Lisbon 130
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Lisbon Street Finder 132
Reprinted with revisions
1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004,
2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, Portuguese water jug,
2018 Museu Guerra Junqueiro
Copyright 1997, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-24130-931-5
Lisbon’s skyline as seen from across the Tagus, in Almada
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page View of Porto Moniz, with its natural rock pools, Madeira Front cover image A boat sails past the beautiful Ponta de
Piedade near the town of Lagos, the Algarve Back cover image The Alfama district of Lisbon
Contents
Central Portugal Travellers’ Needs
Introducing Central Where to Stay 380

Portugal 148
Where to Eat and
The Lisbon Coast 154 Drink 396
Estremadura and Shopping in

Ribatejo 176 Portugal 416
The Beiras 200 Entertainment in

Portugal 420
Northern Portugal Sporting Holidays and
Outdoor Activities 422
Introducing Northern A traditional tram transports passengers

Portugal 230 around Porto Survival Guide
Douro and Trás-os-
Montes 238 Portugal’s Islands Practical
Minho 268 Information 430
Introducing Portugal’s Travel Information 440

Southern Portugal Islands 340
General Index 450
Madeira 346
Phrase Book 479
Introducing Southern The Azores 364
Portugal 290
Alentejo 296
Algarve 320
Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos, Lisbon
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from important sights, using maps, pictures
a visit to Portugal, providing expert and illustrations. Features cover topics
recommendations as well as detailed ranging from architecture and festivals to
practical information. The opening beaches and food. Hotel and restaurant
chapter, Introducing Portugal, maps the recommendations can be found in Travellers’
country and sets it in its historical and Needs. The Survival Guide contains practical
cultural context. Each of the nine regional information on everything from transport
chapters, plus Lisbon Area by Area, describe to personal safety.
Lisbon
Lisbon has been divided into of the major sights described. to locate as the order in
five main sightseeing areas. All sights are numbered and which they appear in the
Each of these areas has its own plotted on an Area Map. chapter follows the numerical
chapter, which opens with a list Information on the sights is easy order used on the map.
1 Area Map LISBON  103
BELÉM All the pages relating to

For easy reference, the sights At the mouth of the River Tagus, where the
caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery,
Belém is inextricably linked with Portugal’s
relatively green suburb with many museums,
parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
riverside setting with cafés and a promenade.
Lisbon have pink thumb tabs.
covered in the chapter are Golden Age (see pp50–53). When Manuel I
came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits
of those heady days of expansion, building
grandiose monuments and churches that
On sunny days there is a distinct seaside feel
to the embankment.
Before the Tagus receded, the monks in
the monastery used to look out onto the river
numbered and located on mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic
Manueline style of architecture (see pp28–9)
and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Avenida da Índia cut central Belém off from
a map. The sights are also

are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the the picturesque waterfront, and silver and
Torre de Belém. Today Belém is a spacious, yellow trains rattle regularly past.
Sights at a Glance
marked on the Street Finder Museums and Galleries

2 Museu Nacional dos Coches
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
6 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian
Churches and Monasteries
4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos pp108–9
w Ermida de São Jerónimo
e Igreja da Memória
Monuments
9 Monument to the Discoveries
Cultural Centres
8 Centro Cultural de Belém
Sights at a Glance lists the
maps on pages 132–45.
7 Museu de Marinha Historic Buildings
chapter’s sights by category:

0 Museu de Arte Popular
1 Palácio de Belém
Parks and Gardens q Torre de Belém p112 A
UD
AJ
3 Jardim Botânico Tropical t Palácio Nacional da Ajuda C. DO
M IR A N T E
Á
r Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
Churches, Museums and

AJ UDA
DA
Galleries, Historic Buildings,

A
CALÇAD
RC O A
ZA
MERCÊS
I
ÓR
S
VE
ME M
AL
Parks and Gardens.

NÇ
See also Street Finder

RUA DAS
A V.
C. DA
R UA G
G A LVÃO
pp132–45
DA I
LHA
A locator map shows clearly

A
RI
E S TÁ D I O Ó
EM
DA
M U N I C I PA L
DO
M
A
DO T. D
M AD
R E S T E LO
CALÇAD
S
DA
NE
RUA
EIRA
15
EA
LÇA
where the area is in relation

I
L
G OL E NA
. ALC R.
CA
DE O
R
EL
A
RUA ST
RE
DO
EIDA
DO
DA
S
A
RU A 1
I D
RU
A V E N
JER
A
LM
AJUD
R.
to other parts of the city.

4
DO
Ó N
A
M
DE
M
O
ISC
BELÉ
IM
NC
LO
FRA
O
UR
DOM
S
RUA
EN
DE
ÇO
ER RUA
R U A S ÃO F. X A V I
DE
DE B E L ÉM
300 m
E
AL
TORR
VIL
ME
A C
PRAÇA
IDA
DO
RRO
AS IMPÉRIO ÍNDI
A
DI
DA
EI A
DA Belém
U A
ME NID
O LO AVE
BA R T
NIDA
RUA
Estação Fluvial
SÍL
I A de Belém
ÍNDIA BRA
AVE
IDA DA DE
AVEN AV ENI
D A
j o
T e
0 metres 400
0 yards 400
Manueline arches in the cloister of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos For additional map symbols see back flap
104  LISBON BELÉM  105
2
Street-by-Street: Belém
Street-by-Street Map Portugal’s former maritime glory, expressed in
the imposing buildings such as the Jerónimos
monastery, is evident all around Belém. In
BELÉM
This gives a bird’s-eye view

Salazar’s (see p60) attempted revival
of awareness of Portugal’s Golden Age, the area
Tejo
along the waterfront, which had silted up since
the days of the caravels, was restructured to Locator Map
of the heart of each of the

See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
celebrate the former greatness of the nation. 4 . Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Praça do Império was laid out for the Exhibition Vaulted arcades and richly carved columns 3 Jardim Botânico Tropical
of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praça adorned with foliage, exotic animals and Exotic plants and trees gathered from Portugal’s former
navigational instruments decorate the Manueline colonies fill these peaceful gardens that were once part of the
sightseeing areas.
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to cloister of the Jerónimos monastery. Palácio de Belém.
Portugal’s first viceroy of India. The royal
Palácio de Belém, restored with gardens
0 metres 50
and a riding school by João V in the Antiga Confeitaria de
18th century, briefly housed the royal Belém,a 19th-century café, sells 0 yards 50
pastéis de Belém, rich custard in
family after the 1755 earthquake.
a flaky pastry cup.

Archaeological finds ranging from an
2 . Museu Nacional dos Coches
Iron Age gold bracelet to Moorish
This 18th-century coach used by the
artifacts are among the interesting
ambassador to Pope Clement XI is part of the
exhibits on display.
T R AV E S S A museum’s collection. The museum was
DOS FERRE
IROS moved to the east side of Praça Afonso de
Alburquerque in 2016.
T. MART
L ARGO Central
IO
A PINTO
ÉR Lisbon
A suggested route for

MP DOS
O I
A D JERÓNIMOS
AÇ
PR
RUA DE BELÉM
a walk is shown in red. RUA VIEIRA P

ORTUENSE
Torre
de Belém
(see p112) Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
(pink palace) because of its faded pink
façade, the former royal palace is the
residence of the Portuguese president.
It also houses the Museu da Presidência
Rua Vieira Portuense runs along da República.
110  LISBON BELÉM  111
a small park. Its colourful 16th-
and 17th-century houses con-
trast with the typically imposing
shipbuilding from the 8 Centro Cultural 0 MAAT – Museu de buildings in Belém.
mid-15th century, de Belém Key Arte, Arquitetura e Praça Afonso de Albuquerque
capitalizing on the
experience of long- Praça do Império. Map 1 B5. Tel 213 Tecnologia
Suggested route is named after the first
612 400. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. Praça do Império, an impressive Portuguese viceroy of India. A
distance explorers. Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, 1300-598
£ Belém. Berardo Collection square that opens out in front of the Neo-Manueline column in the
Small replicas show Lisboa. Map 2 D5. Tel 210 028 130.
Museum: Tel 213 612 878. monastery, is lit up on special centre bears his statue, with
the transition from @ 727, 728, 729. v15. £ Belém.
occasions with a colourful light display
Open 10am–7pm daily. 7 & Open 12–8pm Wed–Mon. Closed Tue scenes from his life carved on
the bark to the in the central fountain.
∑ ccb.pt; ∑ museuberardo.pt
& public hols: 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. the base.
lateen-rigged caravel,
through the faster Standing between the Tagus & ∑ maat.pt;
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
square-rigged and the Jerónimos monastery,
caravel, to the this stark, modern building was With a spectacular riverside
Portuguese nau. Also erected as the headquarters of view, the stylish Museu de Arte,
here are navigational the Portuguese presidency Arquitetura e Tecnologia is
instruments, of the European Community. operated by the EDP Foundation,
astrolabes and In 1993 it opened as a cultural The huge pavement compass in front of the Monument to the Discoveries and is dedicated to contemp-
replicas of 16th- centre offering performing arts, orary art, primarily Portuguese,
century maps showing music and photography. The royal patrons and all those the huge mariner’s compass along with modern architecture
the world as it was centre houses the Berardo who took part in the develop- cut into the paving stone was and technology. Popularly
known then. The
stone pillars, carved
with the Cross of the
Collection Museum, which has
contemporary art by the likes
of Francis Bacon, Willem de
ment of the Portuguese Age
of Discovery. The monument
is designed in the shape of a
a gift from South Africa in
1960. The central map, dotted
with mermaids and galleons,
known as MAAT, the exhibits
are housed in an award-
winning building designed by
Stars indicate the sights that no
Knights of Christ, are caravel, with Portugal’s coat
visitor should miss.

Kooning and Michel Basquiat. shows the routes of the the London-based architect
replicas of the types Both the café and restaurant of arms on the sides and the discoverers in the 15th and Amanda Levete. Its structure
of padrão set up as spill out onto the ramparts of sword of the Royal House of 16th centuries. Inside the is a sharp contrast to the well-
Façade of the Museu de Marinha monuments to Portu- the building, whose peaceful Avis rising above the entrance. monument a lift whisks you known Lisbon power station,
guese sovereignty on gardens of olive trees and Henry the Navigator stands up to the sixth floor where which stands next door, and
7Museu de the lands discovered. geometric lawns look out at the prow with a caravel in steps then lead to the top for forms an integral part of this
Marinha A series of rooms displaying over the quay and river. hand. In two sloping lines a splendid panorama of building complex. Visits to the
Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213
models of modern Portuguese either side of the monument Belém. The basement level is MAAT include a tour of the
620 019. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. ships leads on to the Royal are stone statues of used for temporary exhibitions, iconic power station, not
v 15. £ Belém. Open 10am– Quarters, where you can see Portuguese heroes linked with but not necessarily related to forgetting the pedestrian roof
6pm Tue–Sun (18 Apr–1 Oct: to 5pm). the exquisitely furnished wood- the Age of Discovery, such as the Discoveries. from which visitors can gain
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. panelled cabin of King Carlos Dom Manuel I holding an The rather ostentatious stunning views of Lisbon and
& (free first Sun of month). 7 and Queen Amélia from the armillary sphere, the poet Padrão is not to everyone’s the Tagus river.
∑ ccm.marinha.pt royal yacht Amélia, built in Camões with a copy of Os taste but the setting is Aside from unique temporary
Scotland in 1900. Lusíadas and the painter Nuno undeniably splendid and the exhibitions, the museum also
The Maritime Museum was The modern, incongruous Gonçalves, as well as famous caravel design is imaginative. features the Pedro Cabrita
inaugurated in 1962 in the pavilion opposite houses ori- The modern complex of the Centro navigators, cartographers and The monument looks Reis Collection, which consists
west wing of the Jerónimos ginal royal barges, the most Cultural de Belém kings. On the particularly dramatic when of some 400 works by over
monastery (see pp108–9). It extravagant of which is the monument’s viewed from the west in the 70 artists from the end of the
3
was here, in the chapel built by royal brig built in 1780 for north side, light of the late afternoon sun. 20th century.
Henry the Navigator (see p53), Maria I. The collection ends 9 Monument to
Detailed Information
that mariners took mass before with a display of seaplanes, the Discoveries Eastern Face of the
embarking on their voyages. including the Santa Clara Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
Monument to the
A hall about the Discoveries which made the first crossing Discoveries
Avenida de Brasília. Map 1 C5.
illustrates the progress in of the South Atlantic in 1922. Tel 213 031 950. @ 727, 728.
All the sights in Lisbon are described

v 15. £ Belém. Open Oct–Feb:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Mar–Sep:
Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)
10am–7pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1
In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around the May, 25 Dec. & for lift.
individually. Addresses and practical

Cape of Good Hope and opened the sea ∑ padraodosdescobrimentos.pt
route to India (see pp52–3). Although the
Hindu ruler of Calicut, who received him Standing prominently on the
wearing diamond and ruby rings, was Belém waterfront, this massive
Afonso V
not impressed by his humble offerings of angular monument, the
information are provided. The key to

(1432–81),
cloth and wash basins, da Gama returned Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
patron of the
to Portugal with a cargo of spices. In was built in 1960 to mark the
first explorers Pedro Álvares
1502 he sailed again to India, establishing 500th anniversary of the death
Cabral (1467–1520),
Portuguese trade routes in the Indian of Henry the Navigator (see Henry the Navigator
the symbols used in the information

discoverer of Brazil
Ocean. João III nominated him Viceroy p53). The 52-m (170-ft) high (1394–1460)
of India in 1524, but he died of a 16th-century painting of Vasco monument, commis-sioned Fernão Magalhães Padrão erected
fever soon after. da Gama in Goa by the Salazar regime, com- Vasco da Gama (Magellan), who crossed by Diogo Cão in the
memorates the mariners, (1460–1524) the Pacific in 1520–21 Congo in 1482
block is shown on the back flap.

CENTRAL PORTUGAL  155
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE LISBON COAST
Within an hour’s drive northwest of Lisbon you can reach the
rocky Atlantic coast, the wooded slopes of Sintra or countryside
dotted with villas and royal palaces. South of Lisbon you can
Portugal
enjoy the sandy beaches and fishing towns along the coast or
1 Introduction
explore the lagoons of the Tagus and Sado river estuaries.
Region By Region
Traders and invaders, from the Phoenicians communities still
A general account of the

to the Spanish, have left their mark in this remain. Lively fish markets
region, in particular the Moors whose forts offer a huge variety of fresh fish and
and castles, rebuilt many times over the seafood; Palmela and the Sado region are
landscape, history and

centuries, can be found all along this noted for their wine; sheep still roam the
coast. After Lisbon became the capital in
1256, Portuguese kings and nobles built
unspoilt Serra da Arrábida, providing milk
for Azeitão cheese; and rice is the main Outside Lisbon, the rest of
character of each region is
summer palaces and villas in the countryside crop in the Sado estuary. Traditional
west of the city, particularly on the cool,
green heights of the Serra de Sintra.
industries also survive, such as salt
panning near Alcochete and marble Portugal has been divided into
given here, explaining both
Across the Tagus, the southern shore quarries at Pero Pinheiro.
(Margem Sul) could be reached only by
ferry, until the suspension bridge was built
Though the sea is cold and often rough,
especially on west-facing coasts, the nine regions, each of which
how the area has developed
in 1966. Now, the long sandy beaches of beaches are among the cleanest in
has a separate chapter. The most

the Costa da Caparica, the coast around Europe. As well as surfing, fishing and
the fishing town of Sesimbra and even the scuba diving, the region provides splendid
over the centuries and what

remote Tróia peninsula have become golf courses, horse riding facilities
interesting cities, towns and

popular resorts during the summer and a motor-racing track. Arts and
months. Fortunately, large stretches of entertainment range from music and
attractions it has to offer the

coast and unspoilt countryside are being cinema festivals to bullfights and country
protected as conservation areas and fairs where regional crafts, such as
nature reserves. Despite the region’s rapid hand-painted pottery, lace and baskets,
sights to visit are located and
visitor today.
urbanization, small fishing and farming are on display.
numbered on a Regional Map.
2 Regional Map
156  CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST  157
Exploring the Lisbon Coast

Palácio de Mafra (see p158), an 18th-century Baroque palace and monastery on the Lisbon coast
North
Aerial view of a stretch of coastline in the Serra of the Tagus, the beautiful hilltown of Sintra is
da Arrábida
Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from
Lisbon to Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and
Setúbal. Main roads are generally
This shows the main road
network and gives an
dotted with historic palaces and surrounded by wooded
hills, at times enveloped in an eerie sea mist. On the well-signposted and surfaced, though
Torres Vedras traffic congestion can be a problem,
coast, cosmopolitan Cascais and the traditional particularly at weekends and holidays.
Turcifal
fishing town of Ericeira are both excellent Encarnação Watch out for potholes on smaller
illustrated overview of
Sobral de
bases from which to explore the rocky Monte Agraço roads. Fast, frequent trains run from
Ribamar
coastline and surrounding countryside. Lisbon: from Cais do Sodré station to
Santo Isidoro
South of the Tagus, the Serra da Arrábida Vila Franca do Estoril and Cascais, from Roma Areeiro
and Entrecampos stations to Queluz
the region. All entries are

Rosário
and the rugged coast around Cabo ERICEIRA
Sobreiro
Murgeira and Sintra and from Rossio station to
Espichel can be visited from the small Queluz and Sintra. Trains south to
port of Sesimbra. Inland, the nature PALÁCIO DE Milharado
Setúbal, Alcácer do Sal and beyond
MAFRA Malveira
numbered and there

reserves of the Tagus and Sado Convento da Arrábida in the hills of the leave from Roma Areeiro, crossing the
estuaries offer a quiet retreat. LISBOA Alverca do
Ribatejo Serra da Arrábida April 25 bridge. There are good bus
Cheleiros services to all parts of the region,
Lousa
ia
São João das most of which leave from Sete Rios.

ra
are also useful tips on

Póvoa de
or
Lampas
oS
Pero Pinheiro Santa Iria

Azenhas do
Ri
Sights at a Glance Mar Loures

São João da Talha
Vila Franca de Xira
Praia das
1 Palácio de Mafra Maçãs Caneças
MONSERRATE
o
2 Ericeira
getting around the region.

Te j
COLARES R e s e r va
3 Colares SINTRA Odivelas N a t u ra l d o
Sacavém E s t u á r i o d o Te j o
5 Monserrate Cabo da A Belas
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R Canha Rib
6 Sintra pp162–7 eira
PALÁCIO DE ALCOCHETE de Canh
7 Cascais Malveira da Serra QUELUZ a
Rio
Alcabideche
8 Estoril Guincho
Samouco
9 Palácio de Queluz pp170–71 LISBON
0 Alcochete Caxias Montijo
Boca do Inferno ESTORIL Atalaia
Pegões Velhos
q Costa da Caparica Oeiras Almada
w Cabo Espichel CASCAIS Trafaria Rio Frio
Carcavelos
Barreiro
e Sesimbra Arieiro Moita Évora
r Palmela COSTA DA CAPARICA Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
t Serra da Arrábida Santo António
y Setúbal
da Charneca
SETÚBAL
Each area of Portugal can
u Península de Tróia Coina
i Alcácer do Sal
ATLANTIC Águas Marateca
0 kilometres 10 OCEAN PALMELA de Moura
Tours Marco do Grilo
be identified quickly by its

0 miles 5
Vila Fresca de
4 Serra de Sintra Azeitão A
Lagoa de BID SETÚBAL
Vila Nogueira RÁ
Albufeira de Azeitão AR
colour coding, shown on

R e s e r va
DA Tróia N a t u ra l d o Palma ho
tin
Alfarim RA Figueirinha
Estuário do Sado
Pinheiros M
ar
R
Santana Ri Estação
SE
Pinheiro
ão
Portinho o
S
Sad
the inside front cover.

de
da Arrábida PENÍNSULA o
ira
Nossa Senhora SESIMBRA DE TRÓIA

be
do Cabo
Ri
Baía de
Key CABO ESPICHEL Montalvo
Setúbal
Motorway
Secondary road Comporta
ALCÁCER DO SAL
Minor road
Scenic route Grândola
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border 174  CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST  175
Cabo da Roca on the western edge of Serra de Sintra

Fishing boats in the harbour
the lofty interior is adorned with forest, which has been explored
at Sesimbra
twisted columns, carved in and inhabited since 3500 BC.
For additional map symbols see back flap three strands from pinkish Otters, water birds (including
Arrábida limestone, and rope- storks and herons), oysters and a
like stone ribs decorating the great variety of fish are found in
roof, recognized as the earliest the reserve. The old tidal water
examples of the distinctive mill at Mouriscas, 5 km (3 miles)
Manueline style (see pp28–9). to the east of Setúbal, uses the
On Rua do Balneário, in different levels of the tide to
the old monastic quarters, a turn the grinding stones. Rice-
museum houses 14 remarkable growing and fishing are the
paintings of the life of Christ. main occupations today, and
The works are attributed to the pine trees around the lagoon
followers of Jorge Afonso are tapped for resin.
(1520–30), influenced by
the Flemish school. O Reserva Natural do Estuário
do Sado
E Museu de Arqueologia n Praça da República, Setúbal View over Alcácer do Sal and the River Sado from the castle
e Etnografia (265 541 140).
3
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239 flats are reached by walkways here, and the castle later became
Detailed Information
365. Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm raised on stilts. From here to a stronghold for the Romans.
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols. Alcácer do Sal, great stretches Rebuilt by the Moors, it was finally
The archaeological museum of pine forest line the road, conquered by Afonso II in 1217.
displays a wealth of finds from and there are the first glimpses The restored buildings have
All the important towns and

digs around Setúbal, including of the cork oak countryside taken on a new life as a pousada
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins typical of the Alentejo. (see p387), with sweeping views
and amphorae made to carry over the rooftops and untidy
wine and garum, a sauce made T Cetóbriga storks’ nests. Also here is the
other places to visit are

from fish marinated in salt and N253-1. Tel 265 499 413. Open Jun–Sep: Cripta Arqueológica do
herbs. The ethnography display 10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Wed–Sun.. & Castelo, an archaeological
shows local arts, crafts and A boardwalk crosses the sand dunes to museum holding locally
Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal industries, including the the beach of Tróia excavated items. The collections
described individually. They

processing of salt and cork i Alcácer do Sal include artifacts from the Iron
y Setúbal here. Rectangular tanks, carved over the centuries. u Península de Road map C6. * 14,000. £ @
Age, as well as from the Roman,
from stone, can be seen under Moorish and medieval periods.
Road map C5. * 119,000. £ @
the glass floor of the Regional + Castelo de São Filipe Tróia n Largo Luís de Camões (265 009
987). ( 1st Sat of month. There are pleasant cafés
g n Casa da Baía, Avenida Luísa
are listed in order, following Todi 468 (265 545 010 or 915 174 442). Tourist Office at No. 10 Travessa Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 545 010. Road map C5. @ g Tróia. n Tróia along the riverside promenade
Frei Gaspar. The star-shaped fort was built in Resort (265 499 400/421). Bypassed by the main road, the and several historic churches.
Although this is an important 1595 by Philip II of Spain during ancient town of Alcácer do Sal The bullring is a focus for
industrial town, and the third- R Igreja de Jesus the period of Spanish rule (see High-rise holiday apartments (al-kasr from the Arabic for castle, summer events and hosts the
the numbering given on the

largest port in Portugal (after Largo de Jesus. Tel 913 873 015. pp54–5) to keep a wary eye on dominate the tip of the Tróia and do sal from its trade in salt) agricultural fair in October.
Lisbon and Porto), Setúbal can Open 9:30am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue– pirates, English invaders and the peninsula, easily accessible from sits peacefully on the north bank
be used to explore the area. To Sat. 7 Museum: Tel 913 873 015. local population. A massive Setúbal by ferry. The Atlantic of the River Sado. The imposing E Cripta Arqueológica do Castelo
the south of the central gardens Open Tue–Sun. Closed public gateway and stone tunnel lead coast, stretching south for 18 km castle was a hillfort as early as the Castelo de Alcácer, Piso Inferior
Regional Map. Within each

and fountains are the fishing har- hols. & to the sheltered interior, which (11 miles) of untouched sandy 6th century BC. The Phoenicians Pousada Dom Afonso II. Tel 265 612
bour, marina and ferry port, and To the north of the old town, houses a bar, lounge area as beach, lined with dunes and established an inland trading port 058. Open Tue–Sun. 7 8
a lively covered market. North of this striking Gothic church is well as the original chapel. A pine woods, is now the haunt
the gardens is the old town, with one of Setúbal’s architectural broad terrace offers marvellous of sun-seekers in the summer.
Birds of the Tagus and
entry, there is further detailed

attractive pedestrian streets and treasures. Designed by the views over the city and the Sado Near Tróia, in the sheltered
squares full of shops and cafés. architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, estuary. The fort is undergoing lagoon, the Roman town of Sado Estuaries
The 16th-century cathedral, refurbishment and is Cetóbriga was the site of a Many water birds, including black-
dedicated to Santa Maria da due to reopen in 2016. thriving fish-salting trade, winged stilts, avocets, Kentish plovers
information on important
Graça, has glorious tiled panels established in the 3rd century. and pratincoles are found close to
dating from the 18th century, Environs The stone tanks and ruined areas of open water and mud flats
and gilded altar decoration. Setúbal is an buildings, which are signposted as well as the dried out lagoons of
Street names commemorate excellent starting as Ruinas Romanas, are open to the Tagus and Sado estuaries. Reed-
buildings and other sights.

two famous Setúbal residents: point for a tour by visit. To the south, smart holiday beds also provide shelter for nesting
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage car of the unspoilt villas and golf clubs are and support good numbers of little
(1765–1805), whose satirical Reserva Natural do springing up along the lagoon. bitterns, purple herons and marsh
poetry landed him in prison, Estuário do Sado, a Further on, Carrasqueira is an harriers. From September to March,
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), vast stretch of mud old fishing community where the area around the Tagus estuary
a celebrated opera singer. In flats, shallow lagoons you can still see traditional reed is extremely important for wildfowl Black-winged stilt, a wader that
Roman times, fish-salting was Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the Reserva and salt marshes houses. The narrow fishing and wintering waders. feeds in the estuaries
the most important industry Natural do Estuário do Sado with patches of pine boats moored along the mud
164  CENTRAL PORTUGAL SINTRA  165
Palácio Nacional de Sintra VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Story boxes explore
At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila), a pair
of unusual conical chimneys rises high above the Royal
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219 237 300.
specific subjects further.
Palace. The main part of the palace, including the central
∑ parquesdesintra.pt
block with its plain Gothic façade and the large kitchens Open 9:30am–6pm daily (29
beneath the chimneys, was built by João I in the late Mar–24 Oct: to 7pm). Closed
14th century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8 &.
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became the
favourite summer retreat for the court, and continued . Sala das Pegas
as a residence for Portuguese royalty until the 1880s. The ceiling shows 136 magpies (pegas)
Additions to the building by the wealthy Manuel I, in holding ribbons with João I’s motto Por . Sala dos Cisnes
the early 16th century, echo the Moorish style. Gradual
rebuilding of the palace has resulted in a fascinating
bem (for good) and roses to signify the
House of Lancaster, to
which Queen Filipa
The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting hall, painted in
the 16th century, is divided into octagonal panels decorated with
swans (cisnes).
Sala das Sereias
For all the top sights, a
amalgamation of various different styles.
Visitors’ Checklist provides
belonged.
Intricate Arabesque
designs on16th-century
tiles frame this door in
the practical information

the Room of the Sirens.
you need to plan your visit.

Chapel
. Sala dos Brasões

The domed ceiling of this
majestic room is decorated with
stags holding the coats of arms
(brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese
4
families. The lower walls are
lined with 18th-century Delft-
like tiled panels.
KEY
The Top Sights
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled
garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastião,
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons)
4 The Torre dos Brasões has
are dissected to reveal their

dovecotes below the cornice
decorated with armillary spheres
and nautical rope. Entrance
5 The Sala dos Árabes is
interiors; museums and galleries

decorated with fine azulejos. 10th century 1495–1521 Reign of 1683 Afonso VI 1755 Parts of
First reference 1281 King Dinis orders Manuel I; major dies after being palace dam-
6 The kitchens, beneath the restoration of palace; aged in great
to the palace, restoration and imprisoned here
huge conical chimneys, have work is carried out by earthquake
as residence of Manueline additions for nine years by
spits and utensils once used for Moorish governor Moors living in Colares brother Pedro II (see pp66–7)
have colour-coded floorplans

preparing royal banquets.
7 Sala dos Archeiros, the 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800
Chapel
entrance hall Symmetrical Moorish 1147 Christian reconquest; 1385 João I orders 1880s Maria Pia (grand-
8 Manuel I added the ajimene patterns decorate the Afonso Henriques takes complete rebuilding
to help you locate the most

mother of Manuel II)
windows, a distinctive Moorish original 15th-century over palace of central buildings is last royal resident
design with a slender column chestnut and oak ceiling and kitchens
8th century Start of Moorish 1910 Palace becomes a
dividing two arches. and the mosaic floor of occupation of the region national monument
Siren, Sala das Sereias (c.1660)
the private chapel.
interesting exhibits.
INTRODUCING
PORTUGAL
Discovering Portugal 10–17

Putting Portugal on the Map 18–19
A Portrait of Portugal 20–33
Portugal Through the Year 34–39
The History of Portugal 40–61
10  INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
The following itineraries have been designed can easily be combined into a two-week
to take in as many of Portugal’s highlights as tour. Finally, there are two more themed
possible, while keeping long-distance travel one-week itineraries, designed to showcase
to a minimum. First come three two-day tours the Alentejo’s medieval heritage and the Viana do
of, respectively, the vibrant capital Lisbon, the resort region of the Algarve, in southern Castelo
fascinating city of Porto and the beautiful Portugal. Travelled together, they provide Praia do
Cabedelo
island of Madeira. A one-week itinerary of a memorable 14-day jaunt. Pick, combine
northern Portugal and a themed one-week and follow your favourite tours, or simply
tour of the Atlantic coastline are next. These dip in and out and be inspired.
Porto
Aveiro
Leiria
View of Castro Laboreiro Batalha

Nazaré
Famous for a breed of sheepdog, this village lies in the Peneda
range, in northern Portugal, close to the border with Spain. Alcobaça
Berlenga
Islands
Peniche Óbidos
One Week in Key

Northern Portugal Northern Portugal tour
•
Get to know Portugal’s Atlantic Coastline tour
Lisbon
second-largest city, Porto. Medieval Portugal tour
•
Explore the rugged beauty Southern Portugal tour
of the Parque Nacional de
Peneda-Gerês.
•
Visit Braga and admire its
churches, 18th-century Atlantic
mansions and the sanctuary A Tour of the Atlantic Coastline Ocean
of Bom Jesus do Monte.
•
Immerse yourself in •
Visit Lisbon, Portugal’s •
Step back in time at
Guimarães, the birthplace cosmopolitan capital. Conímbriga, the largest
of the nation. •
Explore fairy-tale Óbidos, Roman site in Portugal.
•
Stand in front of Casa de a wedding present from •
Admire Coimbra’s
Mateus, the manor house a king to his queen. beautiful cathedrals and
depicted on the labels of •
Discover the reefs and its hallowed UNESCO-
Mateus Rosé. grottoes around the recognized university.
•
Take the Port Country Berlenga Islands. •
Walk the briny canals of Aljezur
Tour through the stunning •
Marvel at Batalha Aveiro before heading
Douro Valley, a UNESCO abbey, a masterpiece of for the river and lagoons Cabo de
São Vicente
World Heritage site. Portuguese Gothic. that fringe the city. Lagos
Sagres
Peninsula
Detail of a fresco depicting the Spanish conquest of Lisbon in 1580
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL  11
Ponte
da Barca
Parque Nacional
Ponte de Peneda-Gerês
de Lima
Bom Jesus do Monte
Braga Citânia de Briteiros
Guimarães
Vila Real Alijó
Amarante Sabrosa
Casa de
Mateus Pinhão
Dour o
Peso da
Régua
The unspoilt Pinhão Beach in Lagos, Algarve
Fringed by rocky cliffs, secluded Pinhão Beach is in
a small bay near Lagos harbour.
A Tour of Medieval
Portugal
Coimbra •
Explore the splendid city
Conímbriga
of Évora, a UNESCO World
Heritage site.
•
Visit the stunning medieval
hamlet of Marvão, in the
Serra de São Mamede range.
ere
Walk the lofty battlements

Zêz
surrounding Elvas, located

Castelo de Vide near the Spanish border.
Marvão
Serra de
•
Take a guided tour of the
jo
Te São Mamede
ducal palace at Vila Viçosa
Portalegre
and then visit the castle.
•
Try the ewe’s milk cheese
in charming Serpa.
Estremoz •
Discover Roman and Islamic
Elvas
Vila Viçosa art in Mértola and stroll
0 kilometres 50 along the River Guadiana.
0 miles 50
•
Climb to the top of Beja’s
Évora landmark castle keep.
Monsaraz
Viana do
Alentejo
Amieira
A Week in Southern Portugal

Sado
Beja
•
Combine Faro, the •
Explore the remote
Serpa
Algarve’s capital, with Sagres peninsula and
the Parque Natural the Cabo de São
da Ria Formosa. Vicente promontory.
Mértola
•
Visit attractive Tavira, •
Travel to the Serra de
then head offshore to Monchique and relax
Guadia
Serra de sandy Ilha de Tavira. at the Caldas de

Monchique
Discover the lively resort Monchique spa resort.
na
Caldas de Monchique
•
Silves Alte Loulé of Lagos, with its wide •

Walk the red sandstone
Portimão bay and picture- battlements of Silves’s
Estoi Tavira
Faro postcard beaches. Moorish castle.
Parque Natural
da Ria Formosa
earthquake of 1755. In the and winding alleys typical of

Two Days in Lisbon evening, soak up the bohemian this ancient quarter. Return
vibe of Bairro Alto (pp92–3). after dark and seek out one
Portugal’s cosmopolitan of the many traditional fado
capital melds the past Day 2 restaurants hidden away in this
with the present to offer Morning Take the number captivating neighbourhood.
a rich diversity of visitor 15 tram at Praça da Figueira
attractions. (p87) or the train at Cais do
Sodré and travel to Belém and
Two Days in Porto
•
Arriving Lisbon Airport is
the architecturally stunning
7 km (4 miles) northeast of Porto is Portugal’s second-
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
the city. Taxis take about largest city. The historical
(pp108–9). Linger in the richly
20 minutes to get to the city centre is compact and easily
decorated cloisters before
centre; the Aerobus slightly explored on foot, and the
exploring the church of Santa
longer. The Metro is area is famous all over the
Maria, where the tombs of
inexpensive and efficient. world for its port wine.
Vasco da Gama and Luís de
Camões lie. Next, head for the •
Arriving Porto Airport is
Day 1 equally exuberant Torre de
20 km (12 miles) north of
Morning Start the day by Belém (p112). The tower’s
the city. Taxis take around
taking the Metro to Oriente Renaissance loggia affords fine
30 minutes to reach the
Station for Parque das Nações views across the River Tagus. For
city centre. The Metro
(p123). From here, it’s a short a truly outstanding panorama of
provides an efficient and
walk to the Oceanário de the area, however, head back
cheaper alternative, as
Lisboa (p123), home to along the esplanade and climb
do shuttle buses.
hundreds of aquatic species. to the top of the 52-m (170-ft)
Look out for the bizarre sunfish, Monument to the Discoveries •
Booking ahead The Palácio
the beautiful and delicate sea (pp110–11). Stop for a bite to eat da Bolsa.
dragon and, uniquely in Europe, at the Antiga Confeitaria de
sea otters. Afterwards, enjoy Belém (p105), where they serve
the views from the cable car pastéis de Belém – deliciously Day 1
that takes visitors from one end rich custard tarts. Morning Start with a visit to
of the park to the other. Stop the Sé (p246). The cathedral’s
to admire the striking Torre Afternoon Head back to Gothic 14th-century cloisters are
Vasco da Gama – Lisbon’s the city centre and Praça do particularly striking. The Casa-
tallest building – then break Comércio (p89), Lisbon’s huge Museu Guerra Junqueiro (p246)
for lunch at any one of the landmark square. From here, is located next door. Among the
promenade restaurants that walk up to the Castelo de São collections of religious art, rare
overlook the River Tagus. Jorge (pp80–81) and climb the ceramics and antique furniture
towers or stroll the shady is a colourful parade of Chinese
Afternoon Allow a good terrace for spectacular views dogs. Afterwards, explore the
hour to absorb the priceless over the city. Afterwards, amble traditional shops clustered
collection of art in the Museu down to Largo das Portas around Avenida Dom Afonso
Calouste Gulbenkian (pp118– do Sol (p72) and pause for Henriques before taking time
21). Exhibits include works by refreshments at the outdoor to marvel at the azulejos that
Rubens, Rembrandt and René café before venturing into decorate the interior of São
Lalique. Don’t miss the marble Alfama (pp72–3). Lose yourself Bento Station (p245). Next,
statue of Diana by the French in the maze of narrow streets climb the steps of the
sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon.
Afterwards, take a leisurely
downhill stroll towards the
city centre through Parque
Eduardo VII (p117) and along
fashionable Avenida da
Liberdade (p86). For impressive
city views, take a ride on the
Elevador de Santa Justa (p88),
a Neo-Gothic lift that links the
Baixa (downtown) area of
Lisbon with the elegant Chiado
neighbourhood. Take a moment
to contemplate the evocative
ruins of the nearby 14th-century
Igreja do Carmo (p94), badly
damaged by the great Shoals of fish at the impressive Oceanário de Lisboa
For practical information on travelling around Portugal, see pp440–49
Afternoon While in the area,

visit the Sé (p352), the 16th-
century cathedral noted for its
intricately patterned ceiling and
beautifully carved choir stalls.
The island’s history is embodied
in Quinta das Cruzes (p352),
a mansion-museum built on
a spot where João Gonçalves
Zarco, the man who claimed
Madeira for Portugal in 1418, is
said to have lived. Spend some
time here before taking in the
nearby Convento de Santa
Clara (p352), where Zarco is
buried under the high altar.
View of the Castelo de São Jorge and the Baixa neighbourhood in Lisbon The convent walls feature some
fabulous 17th-century azulejos.
18th-century Torre dos Clérigos Nova de Gaia (p253), the centre End the day with a pre-booked
(p247) for a dizzy perspective of of port wine production. Join a tour of Blandy’s Wine Lodge
the city and the distant Douro pre-booked tour of one of the (p353), where fine vintage
Valley. The nearby Cordoaria wine lodges and enjoy tasting Madeira wines can be tasted.
gardens (p242) are an ideal some of the many wine varieties The restaurants and bars in the
picnic spot; alternatively, there on offer. End the day by walking Zona Velha (Old Quarter) offer
are plenty of cafés in the area. up to the esplanade in front of plenty of evening entertainment.
the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar
Afternoon Join a pre-booked (p252) for majestic views of the Day 2: A Tour of the Island
guided tour of the Palácio da city and the river. Morning Head to the other
Bolsa (p246) and be dazzled side of the island and the
by the magnificently gilded coastal village of São Vicente
Arabian Room. Follow up with
Two Days in Madeira (p362). Join a guided tour of the
a visit to the nearby church of eerie underground caves and
São Francisco (p247). Don’t miss •
Arriving Cristiano Ronaldo lava channels at the Grutas e
the extraordinary Tree of Jesse International Airport is Centro do Vulcanismo, then
or the spooky catacombs. Next, 18 km (11 miles) east of browse the centre’s fascinating
head down to the river and the Funchal. Taxis charge a fixed exhibition. The route east to
Casa do Infante (p246), the fare into the city centre, and Santana (p357) skirts the
house where Prince Henry the the journey takes around northern coast and takes in
Navigator was supposedly born 30 minutes. A shuttle bus some stunning seascapes
in 1394. Spend the evening service runs throughout before turning inland to follow a
exploring the Ribeira (p242), the day. steeper, hairpin course. Look out
an area with a large number •
Transport A car is essential for the quirky A-framed houses
of excellent restaurants. for this trip. Taxis can be and the family-friendly Parque
hired to follow the same Temático da Madeira.
Day 2 route but will be expensive.
Morning Devote at least an Afternoon Incredible mountain
•
Booking ahead The Old
hour musing over the modern scenery provides the backdrop
Blandy Wine Lodge.
art collection in the Fundação for the drive to the pretty
de Serralves Museu de Arte hamlet of Ribeiro Frio (p357).
Contemporânea (p252). For a Day 1: Funchal Here you can park the car and
calm, scenic interlude, head to Morning Start the day early to follow a 30-minute levada walk
Foz do Douro, where the river experience the Mercado dos signposted “Balcões” (Balconies)
meets the ocean. Explore Forte Lavradores (p353) at its liveliest. to reach a viewpoint that affords
de São João Baptista da Foz Afterwards, take the scenic breathtaking views across the
(p252), a mighty sea fort dating cable car up to the Jardim laurel forest. Return to the car
from the 16th century. Stop for Botânico (p352) and admire the park and drive to the summit
lunch at a beachfront café. astonishing display of colourful of Pico do Arieiro (p357),
subtropical flora. On the return Madeira’s third-highest
Afternoon Take a tram back to to Funchal, board the cable car mountain. The mesmerizing
the Ribeira, then stroll across the to Monte (p354) and complete view takes in a landscape of
impressive Ponte Luís I (pp248–9), the descent by toboggan. Walk volcanic peaks and spectacular
built in 1886 by an assistant of back to the city centre for lunch mountain ridges poking
Gustave Eiffel. This landmark at one of the restaurants near through the clouds and is
bridge links the city with Vila Avenida Arriaga. especially dramatic at sunset.
One Week in funicular that leads to the

Northern Portugal church of Bom Jesus. Return
to Braga for dinner.
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Porto Airport. Day 5: Guimarães and
•
Transport A car is essential Citânia de Briteiros
for this trip. It’s a short drive to Guimarães
(pp286–7), the birthplace of
•
Booking ahead The Casa
the nation. Acquaint yourself
de Mateus.
with the brooding Castelo de
Guimarães before walking
Day 1: Porto through the Paço dos Duques,
Pick a day from the city itinerary the 15th-century palace built
on pages 12–13. The Neo-Classical basilica of Bom Jesus by Dom Afonso, Portugal’s
do Monte, near Braga first king. Nearby, the former
Day 2: Viana do Castelo monastery of Nossa Senhora
Head north to the 13th-century bridge to the 15th-century da Oliveira features a beautiful
town of Viana do Castelo church of Santo António and Romanesque cloister and
(pp280–81). From Praça da return later to browse the tradi- overlooks Largo da Oliveira,
República, the historic quarter tional open-air market for where lunch can be enjoyed
is easily explored on foot. souvenirs. Drive on to Ponte da alfresco. Use the afternoon
Admire the Gothic arches of Barca (p273) for a restaurant to visit Citânia de Briteiros
the restored Paços do Concelho, lunch or consider a picnic in the (p287), an Iron Age settlement
formerly the town hall, before tranquil Jardim dos Poetas (Poets’ of impressive dimensions.
taking in the imposing Igreja Garden). Carry on to explore the
Matriz, the 15th-century parish Parque Nacional de Peneda- Day 6: Amarante to Alijó
church. Shop for handicrafts, Gerês (pp276–7), one of Portugal’s Head south out of Guimarães
then pack a picnic and head to greatest natural attractions. If you to explore Amarante (pp254–5).
the beach of Praia do Cabedelo have time, visit the traditional A walk along the pretty river-
(p281). To reach it, cross the river villages of Soajo and Lindoso. front will lead to the Ponte
by ferry or via the road. Round de São Gonçalo and the
off the day by visiting the basilica Day 4: Braga 16th-century Igreja de São
of Monte de Santa Luzia (p281), The drive south brings you Gonçalo. Continue east to Vila
5 km (3 miles) north of the town to Braga (pp282–3). Begin Real (p261) for lunch, before
centre. From here, you can enjoy by visiting the Sé, the city’s heading to Mateus and the
views of Viana and the coast. cathedral, which is noted for magnificent Casa de Mateus
its ornate chapel and Baroque (pp260–61). This 18th-century
Day 3: Ponte de Lima to organ. Pause for coffee in the manor house is famously
Parque Nacional de delightful 19th-century salon- depicted on the labels of
Peneda-Gerês style Café Brasileira, then look Mateus Rosé wine. Book ahead
Head east out of Viana do out for the impressive 14th- for a tour of the ornate interior
Castelo towards Ponte de Lima century Torre de Menagem as and the beautiful landscaped
(p278), a picturesque town on you head for Praça da República, gardens. The route to Alijó
the banks of the River Lima. the central square. Devote the (p259) takes you deep into
Wander the narrow streets and afternoon to exploring the port wine country.
look out for the medieval forti- sanctuary of Bom Jesus do
fications of the 15th-century Monte (pp284–5). Climb the Day 7: The Douro Valley
Palácio dos Marqueses de Ponte enormous Baroque Escadaria Start early and head for
de Lima. Amble across the Roman (stairway) or ride the vintage Sabrosa, another village on
the Port Country Tour route
(pp258–9), set above the River
Pinhão. Continue south through
countryside combed with
vineyards until you reach
Pinhão. Stop here and admire
the fabulous azulejo panels
decorating the railway station.
Next, follow the River Douro
west past numerous wineries,
many of which offer tours and
port-wine tasting, to reach
Peso da Régua. A leisurely drive
along the banks of the Douro
The Ponte de São Gonçalo, leading to the Igreja de São Gonçalo in Amarante takes you back to Porto.
A Tour of the Atlantic

Coastline
Explore Estremadura and
the Beiras regions for their
historic cities, impressive
monuments and lively
coastal resorts.
•
Airports Arrive at Lisbon
Airport and depart from
Porto Airport, or vice versa if
you reverse the itinerary.
•
Transport A car is essential
The picturesque, flower-filled cobbled streets of Óbidos for this trip.
Day 1: Lisbon magnificent abbey of Santa decorated Biblioteca Joanina

Pick a day from the city itinerary Maria da Vitória. Marvel at and the exuberant Capela de
on page 12. the Royal Cloister and the São Miguel. Other attractions
Unfinished Chapels. Afterwards, are the nearby cathedrals:
Day 2: Óbidos to Peniche linger in the Founder’s Chapel, Sé Velha, one of the finest
Begin your day with a visit to where Henry the Navigator is Romanesque buildings in
the enchanting medieval buried. The next stop is the Portugal, and Sé Nova, noted
hilltown of Óbidos (pp180–81). attractive town of Leiria (p187). for its elaborate façade. Browse
Walk the sentry path along the Work up an appetite by beating the Museu Nacional Machado
castle battlements for fine views a path up to the splendid castle. de Castro, a highlight of which
of the town centre and Admire the views from the is the collection of medieval
surrounding countryside. Next, loggia before descending back sculpture. Later, walk across
call in at Peniche (p180). A visit into town. After lunch, take a the Ponte de Santa Clara and
to the Museu de Peniche walk in the Pinhal de Leiria, admire the city from the other
includes access to the prison a pine forest, then relax on the side of the River Mondego.
cells inside the 16th-century beach. End the day with dinner Spend the evening in the
Fortaleza. Later, pack a picnic in Leiria’s charming old quarter. Arco de Almedina area, where
lunch and take the ferry to the there are excellent restaurants.
Berlenga Islands (p180). Spend Day 5: Coimbra
the afternoon on this isolated Start off early to explore Day 6: Aveiro
archipelago, then head back for Conímbriga (p214), the largest Aveiro (pp206–7) offers a
dinner in one of Peniche’s and most extensively excavated complete change of scenery.
famed seafood restaurants. Roman site in Portugal, then Follow the Canal Central,
carry on to Coimbra (pp208–11). where colourful seaweed-
Day 3: Alcobaça to Nazaré Begin your visit in the scholarly collecting moliceiros are
First stop is Alcobaça (pp184–5), environs of the University moored. The Museu de
for the hallowed 12th-century (pp212–13), with the richly Aveiro features an absorbing
Mosteiro de Santa Maria de collection of 15th-century
Alcobaça, Portugal’s largest Portuguese primitive paintings,
church. Spend time wandering among other rare exhibits.
the beautiful and serene Cloister Amble over to the old quarter
of Dom Dinis, then admire the to explore the Canal das
intricately carved tombs of Pirâmides and the Canal de
Pedro I and Inês de Castro. Next, São Roque before heading
travel to the lively coastal town for the busy Praça Humberto
of Nazaré (p186). Take the Delgado for lunch. In the
funicular to Sítio, a tiny village afternoon, explore the Ria
set on a cliff high above the de Aveiro (p207) and the
town. Visit the pocket-sized picturesque fishing villages
chapel of Ermida da Memória of Torreira and São Jacinto.
and the 17th-century church of Leave time at the end of the
Nossa Senhora da Nazaré. day to tour the Museu da
Spend the evening soaking in Vista Alegre, where you can
the nightlife near the beach. purchase fine porcelain.
Day 4: Batalha to Leiria Day 7: Porto

Drive to Batalha (pp188–9) and View of Coimbra and the River Mondego Pick a day from the city itinerary
devote a good hour to the at sunset on pages 12–13.
A Tour of Medieval cathedral of Nossa Senhora

Portugal da Assunção. In the afternoon,
meander around the arches
Delve into the Alentejo and of the enormous 17th-century
discover a region of vast Aqueduto da Amoreira. Round
rolling plains peppered with off the day by exploring the
whitewashed villages and nearby Forte de Santa Luzia.
hilltop hamlets crowned
by ancient castles. Day 4: Estremoz and
Vila Viçosa
•
A leisurely drive west leads to
from Lisbon Airport, or
Estremoz (pp306–7). Explore
combine this itinerary
the medieval upper town,
with the tour of southern
dominated by a 13th-century
Portugal and depart from
marble keep. For a glimpse of
Faro Airport, or vice versa.
the castle and palace, visit the Praça do Giraldo, Évora’s main square, with
•
Transport A car is essential nearby pousada (p393). Double its remarkable mosaic paving
for this trip. back to Vila Viçosa (p305), where
•
Booking ahead Vila Viçosa. you can take a pre-booked Day 6: Mértola
guided tour of the splendid Paço Set high above the River
Ducal. After lunch, amble up to Guadiana, the vila museu of
Day 1: Évora the medieval castle for fine town Mértola (p319) is a melting pot
It’s a 90-minute drive from Lisbon and countryside views, then take of archaeological treasures.
to Évora (pp308–11). Start with a a leisurely walk through the Tour the castle and its grounds,
visit to the Sé, the city’s 13th- town’s narrow cobbled lanes. then admire the collection of
century cathedral. The upper Portuguese Islamic art in the
level of the Gothic cloisters offers Day 5: Monsaraz to Serpa Núcleo Islâmico or catch up on
a view across the rooftops. Head south to whitewashed the Roman period at the Núcleo
Around the corner is the Museu Monsaraz (p313). Peer inside Romano. For an interesting
de Évora, home to a dazzling the Igreja Matriz, then work your diversion, head to the old copper
Flemish polyptych in 13 panels. way past the rows of ancient mines at Minas de São Domingos.
Next, walk over to the ruins of the cottages to the medieval castle.
Roman Temple, then admire Clamber to the top of the keep Day 7: Beja and Viana
the 18th-century azulejos that for uninterrupted views in every do Alentejo
decorate the church of São João direction. Continue to the marina Drive to the regional capital of
Evangelista, part of the Convento at Amieira (p313); if there’s Beja (p317). The Museu Regional
dos Lóios. End the day at the time, indulge in some kayaking Rainha Dona Leonor, in a former
Capela dos Ossos, the macabre on Lake Alqueva. Next, drive convent, is worth visiting for its
chapel of bones inside the church through countryside peppered remarkable blend of archi-
of São Francisco. with cork oak and olive trees tectural styles. For an overview
to reach Serpa (p316). Walk of the old town, climb the Torre
Day 2: Serra de São Mamede under the monumental Porta de Menagem. After lunch, head
Drive north to the Serra de São de Beja and explore the castle, to Viana do Alentejo (p313).
Mamede (p300) to visit the spa but be sure to leave time to Explore the 14th-century castle
town of Castelo de Vide (p301). visit the quirky Watch Museum. and the impressive church of
Amble through the maze-like In the evening, sample the local Nossa Senhora de Aires before
Judiaria before venturing up to ewe’s milk cheese during dinner. heading back to Lisbon.
the ruins of the 14th-century
castle. Next, drive to idyllic
Marvão (p300). The castle, hewn
out of granite, dates from the
late 13th century. Continue to
Portalegre (pp300–301) and
admire the valuable collection
of tapestries in the Museu da
Tapeçaria de Portalegre.
Day 3: Elvas
Drive south to the frontier town
of Elvas (pp302–3). Walk along
the massive fortifications
around the old town, then visit
the early 13th-century castle.
Afterwards, walk down to the The medieval castle of Marvão, perched on a dramatic escarpment in the Alentejo
One Week in
Southern Portugal
•
at Faro Airport.
•
Transport A car is essential
for this trip.
Day 1: Faro and Parque

Natural da Ria Formosa
Start the day in the historic
centre of Faro (pp332–4). The
engaging Museu Municipal
rewards the visitor with exhibits
such as an impressive Roman The golden sands and clear waters of Dona Ana beach in Lagos, Algarve
floor mosaic and a collection
of Moorish oil lamps. Admire Day 4: The Sagres Peninsula Pause at the spa village of
the Sé, then climb the Follow the N125 all the way Caldas de Monchique (p325),
cathedral’s belltower for lovely to Sagres (p326). Visit the fort then continue to the rural
views across the lagoon. In the and stand over the mysterious market town of Monchique
afternoon, join a sightseeing pebble wind compass, the (p324). Later, carry on up to Fóia,
cruise around the protected Rosa dos Ventos, reputedly the highest point of the range,
nature reserve of Parque used by Henry the Navigator. for a jawdropping panorama
Natural da Ria Formosa (p335). The windblown Cabo de São of the entire western Algarve.
The city’s nightlife is at its Vicente (p325) is equally
liveliest around the harbour. evocative. Roam the isolated Day 6: Portimão and Silves
headland and gaze across the Head south to Portimão (p328)
Day 2: Tavira Atlantic Ocean before admiring and visit the awardwinning
Head east out of Faro on the the landmark lighthouse. Museu de Portimão, set in a
N125 to Tavira (p336). Clamber Back in Sagres, take a dip in former fishcanning factory.
the ancient walls of the Moorish the warm, shallow waters off Afterwards, drive over to the
castle for wonderful town views Martinhal beach. The restau nearby resort of Praia da Rocha,
before walking up to the former rants lining the sheltered with its scenic beach. Mingle
convent of Nossa Senhora da bay offer mouthwatering with sightseers at the Fortaleza
Graça, now a pousada. Non seafood menus. de Santa Catarina, which
guests can visit the bar, where it overlooks the marina and the
is possible to see the Moorish Day 5: Serra de Monchique mouth of the River Arade. Travel
street foundations unearthed Travel along the west coast as inland to Silves (pp328–9) and
during the refurbishment. Look far as Aljezur (p324). The ruins of roam the Moorish castle, one
out for the tombs of Dom Paio the village’s Moorish castle are of the region’s greatest monu
Peres Correia and his seven worth a look before turning ments. Catch up on the town’s
knights in the church of Santa inland towards the dramatic history in the engaging Museu
Maria do Castelo. Later, catch Serra de Monchique (p324). Arqueológico, where a large
the ferry from Quatro Águas 12thcentury Arab wellcistern
to the offshore Ilha de Tavira. is the star exhibit.
Day 3: Lagos Day 7: Rural Algarve

Take the A22 to go directly to The road to Alte (p329)
Lagos (pp326–7). Ponder the meanders through an idyllic,
astonishing collection of arti pastoral landscape. One of the
facts and curios in the Museu prettiest villages in the region,
Municipal Dr José Formosinho. Alte warrants a pit stop.
Admission includes a visit to Continue to Loulé (pp330–31)
the 18thcentury church of and visit the bustling market for
Santo António, with a fabulous jams, cheeses and other home
gilded interior. Next, take to the made goodies. Admission to
water for a sightseeing tour of the castle includes access to the
the spectacular sea caves ethnographic museum and
along the coast, or relax on pretty the battlements. Leave time
Dona Ana beach. End the day at to visit Estoi (p331) to investi
Ponta da Piedade. Lagos nightlife gate Milreu, the ruins of a 3rd
is some of the best in the region, The clock tower of the church of Santa century Roman villa. Faro is
particularly in the summer. Maria do Castelo, in Tavira 15 minutes away.
Santiago
Putting Portugal on the Map

Situated in the extreme southwest corner of Europe,
Pontevedra Ourense
Portugal occupies roughly one-sixth of the Iberian
Peninsula with a population of just over 10 million. To
o
nh
Vigo
the north and east, a border measuring approximately
Mi
1,300 km (800 miles) separates Portugal from its only
neighbouring country, Spain, and to the south and
west, 830 km (500 miles) of coastline meets the Atlantic
Ocean. The Atlantic archipelagos of Madeira and the Viana do
Azores are included in Portugal’s territory. Castelo
Braga
Guimarães
Vila Real
Corvo The Azores
Porto o
Flores
D ou r
Graciosa
São Jorge Terceira
Faial
Pico
Aveiro Viseu
São Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres 200
0 miles 100 Santa Maria Figueira Coimbra

da Foz
P O R T
Leiria
z e re
Madeira
Zê
Porto Santo
Peniche
Ilha do
oj
Te
Porto Santo
Santarém Ponte
de Sor
Madeira Mora
Lisbon (Lisboa)
0 kilometres 20 See inset
Funchal map right
0 miles 10 Évora
Setúbal
Viana do
Alentejo
S ad o
Alvito
Beja
0 kilometres 100
Santiago
0 miles 50 Atlantic Sines do Cacém
Ocean Vila Nova Castro

de Milfontes Verde
Almodôvar
Key
Aljezur
Motorway Alte
Portimão
Major road
Minor road Albufeira
Main railway line Faro
International boundary
Ferry route
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING PORTUGAL ON THE MAP  19
Sarria
Europe NORWAY
ESTONIA
LATVIA
SWEDEN
LITHUANIA
Ponferrada
Si l DENMARK
S P A I N
UNITED POLAND
KINGDOM
GERMANY
REPUBLIC NETHERLANDS
CZECH SLOVAKIA
OF REPUBLIC
IRELAND
BELGIUM HUNGARY
LUXEMBOURG
AUSTRIA
Bragança SWITZERLAND
SLOVENIA
Chaves FRANCE
Miranda ITALY
do Douro
Due
Sendim ro
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
Torre de
Moncorvo Lisbon
Freixo de Espada Azores TUNISIA

à Cinta
Penedono ALGERIA
LIBYA
MOROCCO
Pinhel Madeira
Trancoso
Ávila
Ciudad Rodrigo
Tor
ó Madrid
n
Guarda ag
mes
Al
Sabugal
Sortelha
Penamacor
S P A I N
Plasencia
U G A L Greater Lisbon
Castelo
Branco Ta j o Odivelas Sacavém
Cáceres
Queluz Amadora
Portalegre
o
LISBON
ej
Campo Maior
Belém
T Montijo
Sousel Mérida
a
ian Cacilhas
Badajoz G u ad
Trafaria Almada Barreiro
Moita
Costa da
Caparica Seixal
Zafra
ila 0 kilometres 10
Moura A rd Coina
0 miles 5
Guadiana
Aracena Córdoba
Estepa Genil
Sevilla
Granada
Huelva Almonte
Motril
Jerez de Málaga
la Frontera
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL  21
A PORTRAIT OF
PORTUGAL
Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, rocky coastline and
manicured golf links of the Algarve. But beyond the south coast resorts lies
the least explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
sophisticated cities, rural backwaters and sharply contrasting traditions.
Portugal appears to have no obvious warm Mediterranean climate all year

geographical claim to nationhood, yet round, has been transformed into a holi-
this western extremity of the Iberian day playground for North Europeans.
Peninsula has existed within borders Two great rivers, the Tagus (or Tejo)
virtually unchanged for nearly 800 and the Douro, rise in Spain and then flow
years. Its ten million people speak their westwards across Portugal to the Atlantic
own language, follow their own unique Ocean. From the wild upper reaches of
cultural traditions, and have a centuries- the Douro valley, comes Portugal’s most
old history of proud independence from famous product – port wine, from steeply
Spain, although their Iberian neighbour terraced vineyards hewn out of the mount-
is Portugal’s biggest trading parrtner. ainsides. The Tagus, by contrast, is wide
For a small country, the regions of and languid, often spilling out over the
Portugal are immensely varied. The rural flat, fertile, Ribatejo flood plain where fine
Minho and Trás-os-Montes in the north horsesand fighting bulls graze.
are the most traditional. Over the last At the mouths of the Tagus and
few decades many inhabitants of these Douro stand Portugal’s two major cities,
neglected regions have been forced to Lisbon and Porto respectively. Lisbon,
emigrate in search of work. the capital, is a cosmopolitan metro-
The south of the country could not be polis with a rich cultural life and many
more different. The Algarve, blessed with national museums and art galleries,
beautiful sandy beaches and a wonderful, but this is not the be all and end all.
The beautiful coast of Albufeira, a major tourist attraction in the Algarve

Detail of azulejo tiles on the wall of the Igreja do Carmo, Porto
The breathtaking Monte Palace Tropical Garden in Funchal, on Madeira
Porto is a serious rival to Lisbon in history, Azores. Warm and luxuriant Madeira is off
food and culture, and visitors can access the coast of Morocco, with its sister island
the Douro Valley by river cruise boat from Porto Santo boasting a long, sandy beach.
Porto. Most of the country’s centres of Then there are the nine rainy, green,
population, however, are smaller: from the volcano tips that make up the Azores, about
fishing communities on the Atlantic coast one third of the way across the Atlantic
to the tiny medieval villages in the vast between Lisbon and New York. Here visitors
sun-baked plains of the Alentejo and the can climb Portugal’s highest peak and hike
mountainous interior of the Beiras. Providing along Europe’s most westerly coast.
a natural link between the cool, green pas-
tures of the north and the hot, dry expanses Politics and Economics
of the south, the picturesque Beiras region In the final quarter of the 20th century, a
also encompasses the enchanting city new era of Portuguese history began.
of Coimbra, home to one of the oldest From the late 1920s, under the long dictator-
universities in the world. ship of António Salazar, the country was a
Far out in the Atlantic Ocean lie two remote virtual recluse in the world community.
archipelagos that are self-governing regions The principal concern of foreign policy
of the Portuguese state – Madeira and the was the ultimately futile defence of
Portugal’s African and
Asian colonies. Domestic
industry and commerce
were dominated by a
few wealthy families,
in an economic
framework of extreme
fiscal tightness.
The Carnation
Revolution of 1974
brought this era to an
end. At first the re-
establishment of demo-
cracy was a painful
process, but since the
1980s Portugal has
Colourful buildings in Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal assumed an increasingly
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL  23
confident Western European

demeanour. Entry into the Euro
pean Community in 1986 was
welcomed at all levels of society,
and led to an explosion of new
construction, the like of which
Portugal had never seen. Tradi
tional exports, such as cork,
resin, textiles, tinned sardines
and wine, have been joined by
new, heavier industries such as
vehicle construction and
cement manufacturing.
Grants and loans from the Luxury yachts in the harbour at Vilamoura in the Algarve
EU have funded the building of
roads, bridges and hospitals, and brought gregarious folk, often to be seen eating,
significant improvements in agriculture. drinking and making merry in large groups
Porto was the European Capital of Culture – at a festa, or in a restaurant celebrating a
in 2001 and in January 2002 the euro birthday or a first communion. Except for
became Portugal’s currency. Like other the older sectors of the population, most
European countries, Portugal experienced Portuguese have good knowledge of
an economic slump around 2008 that led English and will be eager to speak it.
to austerity, which in turn prompted There is a special weakness for children,
strikes and social discontent. who are cherished, indulged and wel
comed everywhere. Visitors who bring
The Portuguese Way of Life their youngsters with them will discover
A mildmannered and easygoing people, an immediate point of contact with their
the Portuguese have an innate sense of hosts. Nevertheless, behind the smiles and
politeness, a quality they also respect in the good humour, there is a deeprooted
others. They tend to use formal modes of aspect of the national psyche which the
address, calling new acquaintances by Portuguese themselves call saudade, a sort
their Christian names, prefixed by Senhor, of ethereal, aching melancholy that seems
Senhora or Dona. In spite of this, they are to yearn for something lost or unattainable.
Rossio Square, in downtown Lisbon, is a popular place to relax and socialize

gradually changing,
especially in the
cities, it is quite
common for three
generations to live
under one roof.
One thing that has
changed dramat
ically is family size.
A generation ago,
families of ten or
more children
were common
place – especially
in remote, rural
An icon of Our Lady of Fátima is carried to the sanctuary of Fátima as pilgrims observe in silence areas. Nowadays,
one or two
Visitors to Portugal should not interpret lack children constitute an averagesized
of punctuality as a personal slight. However, family, often looked after by a grand
in the major cities this is certainly a dated mother while
custom. An hour for lunch, 1–2pm usually, both parents
and then back to work. Some Portuguese go out
tend to discard their native courtesy com to work.
pletely when they are behind the wheel of Catholicism
a car, although fatalities caused by reckless is at the heart
driving have decreased in recent years. of Portuguese
The family is the bosom of Portuguese life, especially
daily life. Although old customs are in the north, Tiled housefront in Alcochete, a small
where you will town on the Tagus estuary
see a crucifix
or the image of a saint watching over
most homes, cafés and barbers’ shops.
Weddings and first communion services
are deeply religious occasions. Although
church attendance is in decline, partic
ularly in cities, national devotion to
Our Lady of Fátima remains steadfast,
as does delight in festivals (romarias)
honouring local saints, another tradition
that is strongest in the north.
Language and Culture

There are few faux pas more injurious
to national esteem, than to suggest
that Portuguese is a mere dialect of
Spanish. Great pride is taken in the
language and literature. Os Lusíadas,
the national epic by 16thcentury poet
Town gate of Óbidos with shrine of Nossa Senhora da Piedade, Camões, is studied reverentially, while
lined with 18th-century tiles many Portuguese also delight in the
Vibrant and surreal street on a tiled wall in Alfama, Lisbon
detached, ironic portrait of themselves many home-grown soap operas, films

in the 19th-century novels of Eça de and documentaries.
Queirós. Pride too, is taken in fado, the The country has become more forward-
native musical tradition which expresses looking, but most aspects of heritage hark
the notion of saudade. In rural areas, back to the Discoveries. The best-loved
especially the Minho, there is still an monuments are those built in the one
enthusiastic following for folk dancing. uniquely Portuguese style of architecture,
There are several excellent newspapers, the Manueline, which dates from the early
but the country’s best-selling daily is 16th century. Many azulejo tile paintings,
A Bola, which is devoted exclusively to another cherished tradition, also glory in
sport, football being a national obsession. Portugal’s great maritime past.
Bullfighting too has its adherents, When the Portuguese joined the
although with nothing like the passion European Community in 1986,
found in Spain. Commission President Jacques Delors
The Portuguese have long been avid solemnly warned them that they should
watchers of television and produce think of themselves as “Portuguese first,
and European
second”. Typically,
the Portuguese
were too polite to
laugh out loud.
How could anyone
have imagined that
this little country
was in danger of
suddenly throwing
overboard centuries
of rich culture and
history nurtured
in staunch
Tourists exploring a market in Sintra, a popular destination in Portugal independence?
Vernacular Architecture
Traditionally, Portugal’s rural architecture varied with climatic
conditions and locally available building materials. Although
lightweight bricks are now ubiquitous, many older houses still
stand. There are the thick-walled granite houses of the north
designed to keep out the cold and rain. The Beiras’ milder
climate means their houses are made of brick or limestone.
In the Alentejo and the Ribatejo, the clay houses are long and
low, to suit hot summers and chilly winters. The Algarve’s gentler
Mediterranean climate has led to houses of clay or stone.
Chimneys are small or non- Roofs are constructed of slate or

existent. Instead, smoke escapes schist tiles, or occasionally thatch. Yellow-trimmed houses below walls
through openings in the roof. of Óbidos (see pp180–81)
Village houses in the

Minho (see p269) and
Trás-os-Montes regions
(see p239) are two-
storeyed and usually
built with the staircase
on the outside. The
veranda is used for
extra living space.
Local granite is used

for rustic stonework.
The ground floor is used to
keep animals and for storage.
Fishermen’s houses found

in the Costa Nova region
south of Aveiro (see p207) are
painted in brightly coloured
stripes. Forests planted to
prevent the sand dunes from
encroaching on the land
provide the raw material.
Raised platforms guard Modern examples use tiles or Different coloured stripes painted onto the
against flooding. painted façades to continue the wood allowed the fishermen to identify their
tradition of striped houses. houses through the region’s frequent mists.
Tiled Roofs
Throughout Portugal, red
clay roof tiles give towns
and villages a memor-
able skyline. The most
traditional and widely
used type of roof tile is Telhados de quatro águas, the distinctive tiled roofs found in
the telha de canudo or Tavira, the Algarve (see p336)
tubular tile. Originating
from the Moors, these half-cylindrical tiles are placed in two layers:
Rooftops of Castelo de Vide in the the first is placed with the concave side facing up and the second
Alentejo (see p301) with the concave side facing down, covering the joints of the first.
Telhas de canudo
are used to cover Portugal’s Windmills
the roof. Windmills are thought to have existed
in Portugal since the 11th century.
Many pristine examples still dot the
Verandas are hillsides, particularly in coastal regions.
glassed in and
so can be used
all year round.
Most windmills
have a cylindrical
brick or stone base.
The upper section
Limestone revolves to catch the
used for the wind in its canvas
walls is usually
Houses in the Beiras (see pp200–27) stuccoed and
sails. Estremadura
often have verandas, usually on the whitewashed. (see pp176–99) has
first floor. These are built to face the sun, good examples.
at the same time affording protection
from the cold north winds.
Thatched houses in the Sado Wooden beams

Azorean windmills, such
Estuary (see p175) are now as this example on Faial
rare. Surviving examples (see p376), are fairly
have walls that consist similar to the
of a wooden Portuguese model,
frame supporting but show the clear
woven sections influence of early
made of straw and Dutch and Flemish
reed. The simple settlers in their
houses use only sail design.
local materials.
Some roof tiles can be removed Wooden windows have Huge chimneys provide spaces
in summer for more light. a painted surround. for smoking hams and sausages.
Colour-trimmed houses of the Alentejo and Ribatejo Whitewashing protects the walls, deflects the hot
regions are mainly constructed of clay. Long and oblong summer sun and acts as a deterrent for pests and
in shape, they have few openings, to ensure that the vermin. Many householders consider it a point of
heat is trapped in winter and kept out in summer. honour ro renew their whitewash each year.
Chimneys of the Algarve

These are an important
decorative feature of houses in
the Algarve (see pp320–37). The
Moorish influence can be seen
in their cylindrical or prismatic
shapes and the geometric
designs per forating the clay.
The chimneys are whitewashed
and many have details picked
out in colour to accentuate
their ornamentation.
Manueline Architecture
The style of architecture that flourished in the reign of Manuel I
(see pp50–53) and continued after his death is essentially a
Portuguese variant of Late Gothic. It is typified by maritime
motifs inspired by Portugal’s Age of Discovery, and by elaborate
“all-over” decoration. The artists behind it include João de
Castilho and Diogo Boitac, renowned for the cloister of the
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (see pp108–9), and Francisco and
Diogo de Arruda, designers of the Torre de Belém (see p112).
Cross of the Order of Twisted Manueline pillory in
Christ (see p191) Chaves (see pp262–3)
Armillary
sphere
Coat of arms
of Manuel I
Cables
Swathes of
The portal of the church of seaweed
Conceição Velha in Lisbon
(see p89) was commissioned
Coral-encrusted
by Manuel in the early 16th
century. The king himself masts
appears in the carved relief
in the tympanum. Anchor chains
Twisted ropes
The ornate window in

the Convento de Cristo
at Tomar (see pp192–3)
was commissioned by
Manuel I and designed
by Diogo de Arruda
c.1510. It is the best-known
Bust, probably of single motif of Manueline architec-
the designer Diogo ture, illustrating its exotic naturalism
de Arruda and complex use of maritime detail.
Decorative Details The armillary sphere was

The most important motifs a navigational device that
in Manueline architecture are became the emblem of
the armillary sphere, the Cross Manuel I himself.
of the Order of Christ and
twisted rope. Naturalistic
and fantastic forms are often
Gil Vicente created the used, as well as flatter, finely The Cross of the
Belém Monstrance (1506) crafted designs similar to Order of Christ
from the first gold brought those found on contempo- was the emblem
back from India. Made for rary Spanish silverware. Later of a military order
Santa Maria de Belém (see Manueline schemes some- that helped to
p109), its superstructure times incorporate Italian finance early voyages. It also
echoes the south portal. Renaissance ornamentation. emblazoned sails and flags.
Rebuilding the Manueline Portal of Madre de Deus

The Manueline portal of the church of Madre de Deus in Lisbon (see p125)
was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, but it was not until 1872 that João
Maria Nepomuceno was
commissioned to rebuild it.
For accuracy, he referred to
an early 16th-century paint-
ing by an unknown artist,
The Arrival of the Relics of
Santa Auta at the Church
of Madre de Deus, now in
the Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga (see pp98–101).
Portal of Madre de Deus The splendid procession
church today in the picture is shown
heading towards the
Manueline portal of the church, which is clearly
depicted. Like others of that period, it stands proud of
the building and dominates the façade. The Manueline
style favoured rounded rather than pointed arches and The painting of The Arrival of the Relics showing the
this one has an interesting trefoil shape. original 16th-century portal
Curving branches and In the Royal Cloister of Batalha (see pp188–9), Soft limestone allowed
crinkled exotic foliage recall early 15th-century pointed Gothic arches complex patterns to be
Indian sculptural motifs. incorporate exquisite Manueline screens on carved in the tracery.
colonnettes, probably by Diogo Boitac,
Cross of the whose two designs alternate. Armillary
Order of Christ sphere
The colonnettes have all-over ornamentation, with

repeated patterns of pearls, shells and coil motifs.
Pillars of plaited colonnettes were

used by architects such as Boitac in the
Igreja de Jesus in Setúbal (see p174).
Twisted ropes Bussaco Palace, today a luxury hotel (see p216), was
decorate ceiling originally built as a royal hunting lodge about the
vaults, columns and end of the 19th century. An extraordinary building,
arches, and girdle the palace incorporates every conceivable element
entire buildings of Manueline architecture and decoration, illus-
inside and out. trating the persistence of the style in Portuguese
design, which continues to this day.
Azulejos – Painted Ceramic Tiles

The idea of covering walls, floors and even ceilings with tiles was
introduced to Spain and Portugal by the Moors. From the 16th
century onwards, Portugal started producing its own decorative
tiles. By the 18th century, no other European country was producing
as many tiles, for such a variety of purposes and in so many different
designs; the blue and white tiles of the Baroque era are considered
1716 Detail from Panel of
by many to be the finest. Azulejos became and remain an important Christ Teaching in the Temple
addition to the interior and exterior of Portuguese buildings. Around 1690 blue and white
story-telling tiles began to be
produced. These figures are
from a typical scheme by
António de Oliveira Bernardes
(c.1660–1732), the greatest
master of the genre.
The central panels are
surrounded by a complex
architectural border (Igreja da
Misericórdia, Évora, see p309).
c.1680 Hunting Cat

c.1520 Frieze of Spanish-made Tiles Naturalistic panels of this
These Moorish-style tiles were produced period were often naively
by compartmental techniques using drawn, but used a wide
raised and depressed areas to prevent range of colours (Museu
the tin-glaze colours from running Nacional do Azulejo, see
(Palácio Nacional de Sintra, see pp164–5). pp124–5).
1500 1600 1700

Renaissance Mannerist Baroque
1500 1600 1700
c.1650 Carpet Tiles

So-called because they
imitated the patterns of
Moorish rugs, these were
produced mainly in blue,
yellow and white. They
often covered whole walls
(Museu Nacional do Azulejo,
see pp124–5).
1565 Susannah and the Elders

The mid-16th century saw the introduction
of the majolica technique. This allowed
artists to paint directly onto prepared flat 1736 Capela de São Filipe
tiles using several colours, as these did not The small chapel inside Setúbal’s
run in the firing process. This panel of a castle is a fine example of a
biblical episode is one of the earliest complete decorative scheme using
produced in Portugal. The decorative blue and white tiles. The panels,
details are typical of the Renaissance illustrating the life of St Philip, are
(Quinta da Bacalhoa, see p173). signed by Policarpo de Oliveira
Bernardes, son of the great António
(Castelo de São Filipe, see p174).
c.1670 Tiled Altar Frontal

The exuberant scheme incorporates
Hindu motifs and other exotic themes
inspired by the printed calicoes and
chintzes brought back from India (Museu
Nacional do Azulejo, see pp124–5).
1865 Viúva Lamego Tile Factory, Lisbon c.1970 Tile Pattern

For the first half of the 19th century, The original design for
relatively few tiles were produced. The this strikingly modern
fashion then returned for covering whole scheme by architect
surfaces with tiles, and simple stylized Raúl Lino dates from
designs were used to decorate shop fronts about 1910. Many of
and residential areas. This naive, chinoiserie Portugal’s leading
figure is part of a scheme dating from 1865 modern artists have
that covers the entire façade of the factory. worked with azulejos
(Museu Nacional do
Azulejo, see pp124–5).
1927 Battle of Ourique

c.1770–84 Corredor das Mangas The early years of the 20th
The Rococo period saw the century saw a revival of
reintroduction of polychromatic large-scale historical scenes
azulejos. This antechamber in the in traditional blue and
royal palace at Queluz has tiled white. This panel is by
panels showing hunting scenes, Jorge Colaço (Carlos Lopes
the seasons and the continents Pavilion, Parque Eduardo VII,
(Palácio de Queluz, see pp170–71). Lisbon, see p117).
1800 1900
Neo-Classical Art Nouveau Modern
1800 1900
c.1800 The Story of António

Joaquim Carneiro, Hatmaker
Delicate Neo-Classical ornamentation
surrounds the blue and white central
subject matter in this charming tale of a
shepherd boy who makes his fortune as
a hatmaker in the big city. Sophisticated
designs of this kind disappeared during
the upheavals of the Peninsular War
(see p58) at the beginning of the 19th
century (Museu Nacional do Azulejo,
see pp124–5).
Tiles in Domestic Architecture

Art Nouveau friezes and
decorations in deep colours
enliven the façade of this
early 20th-century house
c.1770 Gatekeeper in Aveiro. To this day, tiles
“Cut out” figures like cover the façades of houses.
this musketeer are an They are relatively cheap
amusing feature of tile
schemes in many to produce, long-lasting
palaces and mansions and need little maintenance.
from the 18th century Tiled houses brighten up
onwards. They stand many Portuguese towns
guard at the entrance,
and villages. The town of
on landings or on
staircases (Museu Ovar (see pp204–5) is
Nacional do Azulejo, particularly striking. Vila Africana, Aveiro (see p206)
see pp124–5).
The Wines of Portugal

Although still overshadowed by the excellence and fame of
port, Portuguese table wine deserves to be taken seriously.
After years of investment in the industry, many of the reds, such as
the full-bodied wines from the Douro (made with some of the
same grapes as port), have established an attractive style all of
their own. Great whites are fewer, but most regions have some.
And of course there is vinho verde, the usually white, light, Sparkling rosés, such as
slightly carbonated wine from the north. Mateus and Lancers, have
been Portugal’s great
export success. But the
country also has many
Wine Regions other excellent wines.
Many of Portugal’s
Viana do A2
7 N103
A52
Bragança wine regions main
Castelo N1
tain their individual
A3
Braga Chaves 22
A24
A28
A7 style by specializing in
Vila Real A4
Porto
A4 particular Portuguese grape
Penedono
varieties. The introduction
A24
A1
A25
of modern winemaking
02
Aveiro
N1
Viseu A25
Guarda techniques has improved
N109
A1
7
N1
Figueira Coimbra overall quality, and as
3
A2
da Foz
yet the increasing use of
A17
Leiria
IP2
Castelo
Branco
imported grape varieties
A2
3 seems no threat to
9
Peniche
A1
N24
6
Portuguese individuality.
Portalegre
A8
Santarém
IP2
A1
Key
A13
A6
6
A1
Lisbon (Lisboa)
A6 Évora
N4
Vinhos Verdes Vinho verde vineyards in the village of
Setúbal
N25
6 Lapela, near Monção in the Minho
A2
Douro
IC1
IP2
Moura
Sines
IP8
Dão
IP2
Vila Nova
Castro Verde Bairrada
de Milfontes
Lisboa
IC1
Almodôvar
20
A2
N1
Aljezur N2
Alte Tejo
Portimão A22
Faro Setúbal
Alentejo
0 km 50
Algarve
0 miles 50
Cellar of the Bussaco Palace Hotel,

(see p217), famous for its red wine
This wine is from

How to Read a Wine Label the Douro and is
made according to
Tinto is red, branco is white, seco is dry and DOC regulations
doce is sweet. Other essential information for the region.
is the name of the producer, the region
and the year. Wines made to at least The name of this wine
80 per cent from a single grape variety may means “banks of the River
give the name of that grape on the label. Tua”, further specifying its
Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) geographical origin.
indicates that the wine has been made
according to the strictest regulations of a Reserva means that the
given region, but, as elsewhere, this need wine has been aged,
not mean higher quality than the nominally probably in oak casks. It
also implies that the wine
simpler Vinho Regional appellation. The The Sociedade Agrìcola e is of higher quality than
back label often describes grape varieties Comercial dos Vinhos Vale da Corça, nonreserva wine from
and winemaking techniques used. Lda, produced and bottled this wine. the same producer.
Bairrada is a
region where
the small and
thick-skinned
Baga grape
dominates.
It makes big, tannic wines, Setúbal, south of Lisbon, is best
Minho produces vinho verde, a sometimes with smoky or known for its sweet, fortified
“green wine” that can be either pine-needle overtones and, Muscat wine, Moscatel de Setúbal.
red or white, but the fizzy, dry like the older Dão wines, they It also produces excellent, mostly
reds are generally consumed need time to soften. Modern red, table wine. Two big quality
locally. Typical white vinho verde winemaking and occasional producers dominate: José Maria
is bone dry, slightly fizzy, low disregard for regional regula- da Fonseca (see p173) and J P
in alcohol and high in acidity. tions have meant more Vinhos. The co-operative at Santo
A weightier style of white vinho approachable reds (often Isidro de Pegões makes good-
verde is made from the Alvarinho classified as Vinho Regional value wines, while interesting
grape, near the Spanish border. das Beiras) and crisper whites. smaller producers include Freitas,
Among the best brands are Quality producers include Luìs Venâncio Costa Lima, Hero do
Soalheiro and Palácio da Brejoeira. Pato and Caves Aliança. Castanheiro and Ermelinda.
The Douro Alentejo

region is best produced wine
known as the is world-class
source of port and has won
wine, but in numerous
most years awards. Long
about half of the Estremadura is Portugal’s dismissed by
wine produced westernmost wine area and experts as
is fermented dry has only recently emerged as a region of
to make table wine, and these a region in its own right. Several easy-drinking
wines are now at the forefront producers now make modern house reds for restaurants, this
of Portuguese wine-making. Vinho Regional wines with area now produces some of
The pioneer, Barca Velha, was character; look for wines by Portugal’s most serious red
launched in 1952 and is both DFJ, Casa Santos Lima, Quinta wines and a surprising number
highly regarded and among the de Pancas and Quinta do Monte of excellent whites. Among the
most expensive. Other producers d’Oiro. The most interesting top producers are Herdade do
include Calheiros Cruz, Domingos DOC is Alenquer. Bucelas, to the Esporão, Herdade dos Coelheiros,
Alves de Sousa, Quinta do Crasto, south of the region, produces Cortes de Cima and João
Niepoort and Ramos-Pinto. characterful white wines. Portugal Ramos.
Algarve is
Portugal’s
southernmost
wine region.
Portimão,
Lagos and
Ribatejo is the fertile valley of Lagoa in the
The Dão region now offers some the Tagus to the north and east west and Tavira
of Portugal’s best wines. Leading of Lisbon. After Estremadura, it is in the east are
the pack are smaller producers, Portugal’s biggest wine region the four main wine-producing
such as Quinta dos Roques, measured by volume, but its areas here, notable for their fruity
Quinta da Pellada and Quinta de potential for quality wines has reds (Touriga Nacional, Cabernet
Cabriz, and the large Sogrape only just begun to be realized. Sauvignon and Negra Mole) and
company. They are known for As in Estremadura, Vinho Regional dry, crisp whites (Arinto, Verdelho
fruity reds; fresh, dry whites; and bottlings are frequently better and Castelão). Top producers
deeper, richer reds that retain than DOC ones. Producers include Quinta do Barranco
their fruit with age – a far cry to look for include Quinta Longo, Quinta da Penina, Quinta
from the heavy, hard-edged, and da Alorna, Casa Branco and do Francês, Quinta dos Vales and
often oxidized wines of the past. Fiuza & Bright. Quinta do Morgado da Torre.
PORTUGAL THROUGH
THE YEAR
While July and August are the most popular reflected in religious festivals. Festas are
months for visiting, spring and autumn held throughout the year, most frequently
can be more rewarding if you want to celebrating saints’ days, but also marking
tour and experience local culture. Free of the end of the harvest, or gastronomic
excessive heat and crowds, the country and even sporting events. Festas call for
is more relaxed. There is deep-rooted prayers, processions, fireworks, eating
respect throughout the nation for and drinking, traditional folk dances and
ancient traditions, which are most often general merrymaking.
Spring
From the Algarve to Trás-os-
Montes, the country erupts in
wild flowers as warmer days
set in. This is the time to see
the countryside at its most
beautiful, although rain can be
expected until the end of May.
Easter is a time of great
religious celebration, with
Holy Week processions taking
place all over the country.
March
International Chocolate
Festival (Mar/Apr), Óbidos.
This event attracts people Fátima on 13 May, when 100,000 pilgrims gather every year
from all over the world. The
date changes from year to year. Mãe Soberana (second Sun Queima das Fitas (mid-May),
Madeira Islands Golf Open after Easter), Loulé, Algarve. Coimbra. Lively celebrations
(Mar). Venue and date change Pilgrimage to Nossa Senhora mark the end of the university’s
each year. da Piedade (see p331). academic year (see p213).
FIAPE (end Apr/early May), Festa do Senhor Santo Cristo
Estremoz. An international agri- dos Milagres (fifth Sun after
cultural, cattle and handicrafts fair. Easter), Ponta Delgada, São
Algarve Nature Week (5–14 Miguel, Azores. The largest
May), Algarve. Several outdoor religious festival in the Azores.
activities are held to promote Festa do Espírito Santo
nature, including walks, bird- (Pentecost), Azores. Climax of the
watching and dolphin- and festival of the Holy Spirit (see p372).
whale-watching trips. Pilgrimage to Bom Jesus
(Pentecost), Braga. Penitents
May climb the spectacular staircase
Flower Festival (late Apr/ early on their knees (see pp284–5).
May), Funchal, Madeira. Shops and
houses are decorated with flow-
Costume at the Funchal Flower Festival ers. Ends with a parade of floats.
Festas das Cruzes (early May),
April Barcelos. The Festival of the
Holy Week (week before Easter), Crosses celebrates the day
Braga. Events in the country’s the shape of a cross appeared
religious capital are particularly in the earth in 1504.
traditional. Torchlit processions Pilgrimage to Fátima (12–13
are led by church authorities. May). Huge crowds make the
Easter Sunday is also the pilgrimage to the place where
beginning of the bullfighting the Virgin appeared to three Children carrying a cross at the Festas das
season throughout Portugal. children in 1917 (see p190). Cruzes, Barcelos (May)
PORTUGAL THROUGH THE YEAR  35
Summer
Most visitors choose the summer
months to visit Portugal. Since
many businesses shut down
in August, it is holiday time
for locals too. Many families
spend the entire summer by
the seaside.
Summer is a good time to
visit the cooler Minho, when the
north is busy with saints’ day
festivals (see pp232–3).
Historic parade at the Madeira Wine Festival in Funchal
July challenging car rally, one of

Festa do Colete Encarnado the stages of the European
(first weekend), Vila Franca de championships.
Xira. Named after the red Festa da Nossa Senhora da
waistcoats of the Ribatejo Boa Viagem (early Aug),
horsemen, the festival consists Peniche. A crowd gathers at the
of bullfights and bull running. harbour with lighted candles
Festa dos Tabuleiros (every four to greet a statue of the Virgin
years, next in 2019), Tomar. Music, that arrives by boat. Fireworks
The famed horsemen of the Ribatejo, Vila dancing, fireworks and a bullfight and dancing in the evening.
Franca de Xira (July) (see pp190–91). Four hundred Jazz em Agosto (early Aug),
women carry trays of decorated Lisbon. Popular jazz festival with
June loaves on their heads. music in the gardens of the
Festa de São Gonçalo (first Festa da Ria (mid–late Jul), Gulbenkian Centre.
weekend), Amarante. Young, Aveiro. Folk dances, boat races Semana do Mar (1 week in Aug),
unmarried men and women in and a best-decorated boat Horta, Faial, Azores. Food, music,
the town swap phallus-shaped competition (see p207). crafts, water sports and lively
cakes as tokens of love. competitions in this sea festival.
Feira Nacional da Agricultura August Festival do Marisco (mid-Aug),
(early Jun), Santarém. A Feira Medieval de Silves (early Olhão. A seafood festival, hosted
combination of agricultural to mid-Aug), Silves. The city by one of the big fishing ports
fairs, bullfighting and displays centre is turned into a medieval in the Algarve.
of folk dancing. marketplace, with barbecues Romaria de Nossa Senhora
Sintra Festival (Jun–Jul), Sintra. and street entertainers. da Agonia (weekend nearest to
Classical music concerts and Festas Gualterianas (first 20 Aug), Viana do Castelo.
ballet programme. weekend), Guimarães. Three-day Religious procession, followed
Santo António (12–13 Jun), festival dating back to 1452. by display of floats, drinking,
Lisbon. Celebrated in the Torchlight procession, dancing, folk dancing, fireworks and
Alfama district with singing and and medieval parade. bands. There is also a Saturday
dancing, food and drink. Locals Madeira Wine Rally (first afternoon bullfight, and a
put up lanterns and streamers weekend), Funchal, Madeira. ceremonial blessing of the
and bring out chairs for the Car enthusiasts flock to this town’s fishing boats.
thousands who arrive.
Festa da Coca (Thu after Trinity
Sun), Monção. Part of the
Corpus Christi Day celebrations,
the festival features scenes of
St George in comic battle with
the dragon.
São João (23–24 Jun), Porto.
Mid-summer festivities
include making wishes while
jumping over small fires, and
the barcos rabelos boat race
(see pp232–3).
São Pedro (29 Jun), Lisbon.
More street celebrations with
eating, dancing and singing. The sun-drenched Algarve, a major attraction for summer visitors
Feiras Novas (mid-Sep),

Ponte de Lima. A huge
market with fairground,
fireworks, carnival
costumes and a brass
band competition.
Festa da Senhora
da Consolação
(throughout Sep),
Sintra. A celebration
of one of Portugal’s
patron saints, the Lady
of Consolation, with Playing out of a fairway bunker during the
a month of parties, Portugal Masters
music and food in the
Assafora area. Portugal Masters (Oct),
Feira de São Mateus (last Oceânico Victoria golf
Procession at the Romaria de Nossa week), Elvas. Festival offering course, Vilamoura.
Senhora da Nazaré a mixture of religious, cultural Pilgrimage to Fátima (12–13
and agricultural events. Oct). The final pilgrimage of
the year coincides with the
Autumn date of the Virgin’s last
In many ways, this is the best appearance in 1917.
season for touring and sight Festa das Latas (late Oct),
seeing. From midSeptember Coimbra. A celebration to
temperatures cool sharply, and welcome new students.
autumn is usually drier than Festival de Gastronomia
spring. This is a mellow, fruitful (late Oct–early Nov), Santarém.
time of year with the country Sample the best of regional
side a collage of brown, gold cooking at this food festival.
and red.
September is also the start November
of the vindima (the harvest) All Saints’ Day (1 Nov). Candles
season. Grapes are harvested are lit in churches and homes,
and crushed to wine in a spirit and flowers placed on graves
of festivity, especially in the to honour the dead.
portgrowing Douro region. Feira Nacional do Cavalo
Pilgrims on the massive esplanade in front (first 2 weeks), Golegã. Horse
September of the basilica at Fátima parades and races. The
Avante! (early Sep), Seixal. celebrations for St Martin’s Day
A threeday festival of folk music. October (11 Nov), with a grand parade
There are also film screenings, Feira de Outubro (first or second and running of bulls, also take
a book fair and food stalls. week), Vila Franca de Xira. Bulls place during this time.
Festa das Vindimas (early Sep), are run through the streets and Casinos do Algarve Rally
Palmela. A festival to celebrate bullfights staged. (mid-Nov), Algarve. Car rally.
the grape harvest.
Wine Festival (early Sep),
Funchal and Estreito de Câmara
de Lobos, Madeira. The Funchal
festival is a lively, popular event,
but the one in Estreito de Câmara
de Lobos is more authentic.
Romaria da Nossa Senhora dos
Remédios (6–9 Sep), Lamego.
The annual pilgrimage to this
famous Baroque shrine is the
main feature of three days of
celebration. Activities include a
torchlit procession and live bands.
Romaria da Nossa Senhora
da Nazaré (8 Sep and following
weekend), Nazaré. Includes
processions, folk dancing,
and bullfights. Horsemen at the Feira Nacional do Cavalo, Golegã
Lisbon’s impressive Praça do Comércio decorated for Christmas
dried cod) is eaten. Presents are Festa de São Gonçalinho

Winter opened, and people go to mid (2nd week), Aveiro. Festival
Seekers of mild, sunny climes fly night mass. In Madeira traditional in which loaves of bread
south to the Algarve where many bolo de mel (honey cake) is made, are thrown to the crowds
of the resorts remain alive in winter. and children plant wheat, maize from the top of a chapel
For golfers too, the coolest months or barley in pots. The pots are in thanks for the safe return
of the year are the most appealing. placed around the crib to sym of a fisherman, or for
January and February also see the bolize renewal and plenty. finding a husband.
spectacular blossoming of almond
trees right across southern Portugal. January February
Other visitors migrate even New Year. Celebrations all over Fantasporto (mid-Feb/mid-
further south to subtropical Portugal with spectacular fire Mar), Porto. An important
Madeira where winter, in work displays welcoming in international film festival,
particular Christmas and the the New Year. showing many films by new
New Year, is high season. Festa dos Rapazes (25 Dec–6 Jan), directors, including science
around Bragança. Boys dress up fiction films.
December in masks and rampage through Carnaval (varies according to
Christmas (25 Dec). Churches and their villages in an ancient pagan Easter). Celebrated all over
shops everywhere display cribs. On rite of passage. (see p233). Portugal with spectacular
Christmas Eve bacalhau (salted Epiphany (6 Jan). The traditional costumes and floats; partic
crownshaped cake for Epiphany, ularly colourful parades take
bolo rei (king’s cake), is made with place in Ovar, Sesimbra, Torres
Public Holidays
a lucky charm and a bean inside. Vedras, Funchal and Loulé.
New Year’s Day (1 Jan) The person who gets the bean Loulé’s festivities are connected
Carnaval (Feb) must buy the next cake. Bolo rei with the annual Almond
Good Friday (Mar or Apr) is also made at Christmas. Gatherers’ Fair.
Dia 25 de Abril,
commemorating 1974
Revolution (25 Apr)
Dia do Trabalhador,
Labour Day (1 May)
Corpus Christi (15 Jun)
Camões Day (10 Jun)
Assumption Day (15 Aug)
Republic Day (5 Oct)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Dia da Restauracção,
commemorating independence
from Spain, 1640 (1 Dec)
Immaculate Conception
(8 Dec)
Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Participants of the Carnaval Parade in Loule
The Climate of Portugal MINHO

Mainland Portugal has a pleasant climate, with
°C 28/82
long, hot summers and mild winters. In the
21/70
north winters are cool and wet; heading further 19/66
15/59
south temperatures increase and rainfall decreases 10/50 12/54
8/46
all the way down to the Algarve, where the 4/39
Viana
climate is Mediterranean. Further inland a do Castelo
6 8.5 5 3
more Continental climate prevails, with hotter hrs hrs hrs hrs
summers and colder winters than on the coast. 77 20 109 113
mm mm mm mm
Madeira is rainy in the north, warmer and drier
in the south, and the Azores are mild with year- month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Porto
round rainfall and strong winds.
ESTREMADURA
The Azores AND RIBATEJO
Corvo
Flores °C Aveiro
Graciosa
São Jorge 21/70 20/68
Terceira 17/63 16/61
15/59 14/57 Beira Litoral
12/54
Faial 9/48
Pico
8 11 6.5 4.5
São Miguel hrs hrs hrs hrs
0 kilometres 200 55 2.5 60 92.5

Santa Maria mm mm mm mm
0 miles 100 Leiria
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
THE AZORES THE LISBON COAST

Santarém
°C °C 28/82
25/77
23/73 23/73
19/66 17/63 20/68
17/63 16/61 17/63
12/54 12/54 14/57 14/57
12/54
8/46 LISBON
4.5 6 4.5 2.5 9 12.5 7.5 5 Setúbal

hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
67 27 103 120 47.5 0 65 95

mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Sines
Madeira MADEIRA
Porto Santo
°C
25/77 24/75
19/66 19/66
18/64
14/57 18/64 13/55
Lagos
Madeira
6 7.5 6 4.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
0 kilometres 20 39 2.5 75 103

mm mm mm mm
0 miles 10
Funchal month Apr Jul Oct Jan
DOURO AND
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
Douro
Average daily maximum
temperature
°C
Average daily 25/77
21/70
19/66
Bragança minimum temperature
9/48 15/59 13/55
Average daily hours 11/52
Braga
Trás-os-Montes of sunshine 5/41
Average 8 12.5 6.5 4

monthly rainfall hrs hrs hrs hrs
Vila Real
73 15 79 149
mm mm mm mm
Douro
THE BEIRAS
Beira Alta Trás-os-Montes
Viseu Beira Litoral

°C 28/82
Guarda
°C 29/84 18/64
16/61
23/73 13/55
21/70 8/46
5/41 7/45
Coimbra 15/59 14/57
12/54 0/32
10/50
6/43 7 9.5 6 4.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
Beira Baixa
8 10.5 7 4.5 86 20 105 159
Castelo hrs hrs hrs hrs mm mm mm mm
Branco
76 13 87 132 month Apr Jul Oct Jan
mm mm mm mm
Beira Baixa ALENTEJO

Portalegre
31/88 Alto Alentejo
°C
Alto Alentejo 19/66 21/70 30/86
18/64 11/52 °C
12/54 22/72
10/50 19/66
5/41 16/61
13/55 12/54
10/50
6/43
Évora 7.5 12 6 4.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
8.5 12.5 7 5
48 19 52 43 hrs hrs hrs hrs
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan 57 5 62 96

mm mm mm mm
Beja month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Baixo Alentejo
Baixo ALGARVE
Alentejo 35/95
°C 28/82 °C 22/72
24/75
23/73
20/68 20/68 18/64
16/61 16/61 14/57
13/55 13/55
9/48 10/50
6/43
Faro
9 12.5 7.5 5.5 8.5 12.5 7.5 5.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
31 1 51 70 46 2 48 49
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
0 kilometres 100
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
0 miles 50
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL  41
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL

Portugal is one of the oldest nation states in Europe: there is evidence that there
was human life in Portugal during the Ice Age, and the country’s foundation in
1139 pre-dates that of its Iberian neighbour, Spain, by nearly 350 years. Perhaps
most famously, Portugal’s Age of Discovery in the 15th and 16th centuries saw the
country firmly plant itself on the map.
The Romans, who arrived in 218 BC, called was short-lived. Spain invaded in 1580 and
the Iberian Peninsula “Hispania.” When the ruled Portugal for the next 60 years.
Roman Empire collapsed in the 5th century, After Portugal regained independence, her
Hispania was overrun first by Germanic tribes, fortunes were restored by the discovery of
then by Moors from North Africa. Reconquest gold in Brazil and, in the 18th century, the
by the Christian kingdoms of the north began Marquês de Pombal, began to modernize
in earnest in the 11th century and it was the country. However, Napoleon’s invasion in
during this process that Portucale, a county of 1807, and the loss of Brazil in 1825, left Portugal
the kingdom of León and Castile, was declared impoverished and divided. Power struggles
independent by its first king, Afonso Henriques. between Absolutists and Constitutionalists
The kingdom expanded southwards to further weakened the country, and the debt
the Algarve and Portuguese sailors began to crisis worsened. In 1910, a republican
explore the African coast and Atlantic Ocean. revolution overthrew the monarchy.
Portugal’s Golden Age reached its zenith The economy continued to deteriorate until
during the reign of Manuel I, with Vasco da a military coup led to the dictatorship of
Gama’s voyage to India in 1498 and the António Salazar, who held power from 1928 to
discovery of Brazil two years later. Eastern 1968. Although Salazar died in 1970, the right-
trade brought incredible wealth to the wing authoritarian regime he had established
Portuguese coffers, but military defeat in continued until the Carnation Revolution of
Morocco meant that the country’s prosperity 1974; democracy was restored in 1976.
Portuguese mariners’ chart of the North Atlantic drawn on parchment (c.1550)

Illuminated frontispiece of the Leitura Nova, showing Portugal’s coat of arms and portrait of Manuel I (c.1520)
The Rulers of Portugal

Afonso Henriques declared himself Portugal’s first king in
1139, but his descendants’ ties of marriage to various Spanish 1656–83 Afonso VI
kingdoms led to dynastic disputes. João I’s defeat of the
Castilians in 1385 established the House of Avis which
presided over the golden age of Portuguese imperialism.
In 1580, in the absence of a direct heir, Portugal was ruled
by Spanish kings for 60 years before the Duke of Bragança
became João IV. A Republican uprising ended the monarchy
1481–95
in 1910. However, in the first 16 years João II
of the Republic there were 40 different
governments, and in 1926 Portugal
became a dictatorship under the
eventual leadership of Salazar.
Democracy was restored by the
“Carnation” Revolution of 1974.
1248–79 1557–78
Afonso III Sebastião
1211–23 Afonso II
1185–1211 1580–98
Sancho I 1438–81
Afonso V Felipe I
1279–1325 Dinis (Philip II
of Spain)
1100 1220 1340 1460 1580
House of Burgundy Avis Hapsburg
1100 1220 1340 1460 1580
1325–57
Afonso IV
1223–48 1357–67 Pedro I

Sancho II 1578–80
Henrique
1139–85
1433–8
Afonso
1367–83 Fernando I Duarte
Henriques
(Afonso I)
1521–57
João III
1598–1621
Felipe II (Philip
III of Spain)
1385–1433 João I
1495–1521 Manuel I
THE HISTORY OF PORTUGAL  43
1683–1706
Pedro II (regent
from 1668) 1828–53
Maria II 1932–68 António
Salazar (prime minister)
1750–77 1976–8 & 1983–5

José I 1853–61 Pedro V Mário Soares (prime minister)
1816–26 2002–04
João VI José Manuel Durão Barroso (prime
(regent minister)
from 1792) 1861–89 Luís I
2011–15
Pedro Manuel Mamede Passos Coelho
1621–40
(prime minister)
Felipe III
(Philip IV
of Spain)
1700 1820 1940 2060

Bragança Republic
1700 1820 1940 2060
2016–
1908–10 Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa
Manuel II (President of the Republic)
2015–
António Costa
(prime minister)
1777–1816
Maria I and Pedro III
2004–05
Pedro Miguel de Santana Lopes
(prime minister)
2005–11
José Sócrates Carvalho Pinto de
1889–1908 Carlos I
Sousa (prime minister)
2006–16
Aníbal Cavaco Silva (President
of the Republic)
1995–2002
António Guterres (prime
minister)
1985–95
1706–50 João V Aníbal
Cavaco Silva
(prime minister)
1640–56 João IV 1826–28 Pedro IV

44  introducing portugal
Prehistoric and Roman Portugal

From about 2000 Bc portugal’s Stone age communities were Hispania
Tarraconensis
supplanted by foreign invaders, most notably the iberians and
the celts. When rome defeated the carthaginians in 216 Bc LusiTania
and took over all their territories in eastern Spain, she still had BaeTica
to subdue celtiberian tribes living in the west. one of these, the

lusitani, put up fierce resistance. after their defeat in 139 Bc, their
name was preserved in lusitania, a province of roman Hispania, Iberian Peninsula in 27 BC
corresponding roughly to present-day portugal. romanization Roman Provinces
led to four centuries of stability and prosperity, but as the roman
Empire collapsed, lusitania was overrun by germanic tribes, first
the Suevi and then the Visigoths.
The amphitheatre probably dated
from the building boom of the
1st century AD.
The forum and

principal temple
Dolmen of Comenda
Dolmens such as this one near Évora
were communal burial chambers.
Many were built by the Neolithic
peoples who lived in the Iberian
Peninsula in the third millennium BC.
The main road led north

to Aeminium (Coimbra).
Porca of Murça Palestra (exercise

Trás-os-Montes has area of the baths) The Baths of Trajan
preserved 16 statues of
had a spectacular view
animals like this granite pig of the ravine below
(see p263), probably used in the city walls.
Celtic fertility rituals.
c.2000 BC Iberian tribes arrive in the 139 BC Celtiberian

peninsula, probably from Africa resistance to Roman
rule ends with the
death of Viriatus, leader
iberian Gold gorget of the Lusitani tribe
3000 BC 2000 BC 1000 BC
2500 BC Portugal 1000 BC Phoenicians 218 BC The

inhabited by late Stone Age set up trading stations Romans
people. Many megalithic celtic stone warrior, and settlements along invade the
tombs date from this time 1st millennium Bc the southern coast Iberian
c.700 BC Celtic invaders settle in Portugal Peninsula
Floor Mosaic
Under Roman rule, the Where to See Prehistoric
wealthy built lavishly and Roman Portugal
decorated villas. This mosaic
of a triton (1st century AD) The Alentejo is rich in Stone Age
comes from the House of megaliths (see p312), while the
the Fountains just outside north has the two best examples
the walls of Conimbriga. of Celtiberian settlements at
Sanfins (p254) and Briteiros.
Many traces of the Roman
period, including roads and
bridges, are found throughout
Portugal. Apart from Conimbriga,
major sites, such as the villas at
Roman Amphora Pisões (p317) and Milreu (p331),
Garum, a popular, spiced are mainly in the south. Faro’s
sauce made of fermented fish, Museu Municipal (p333) has a
was manufactured at Tróia good collection of local finds.
(see p175) and exported in
27-litre (6-gal) amphorae
like this one.
Aqueduct
Road east to
Tomar
Visigothic
Buckle Citânia de Briteiros, a hilltop
The Visigoths settlement founded around the
were warlike 5th century AD, survived until
yet cultured well into the Roman period. It
people who was discovered in 1874 (p287).
strengthened
the position of
Christianity.
However, their
system of elective
monarchy led to
A domus factional disputes.
(private house
with a garden)
Reconstruction of Conímbriga
The extensive remains of Conímbriga (see p214) give a Évora’s temple dates from the
vivid picture of how thoroughly Romanized Portugal 2nd century AD (see p308). It is
became under the empire. The town expanded rapidly in almost all that remains of an
the 1st century AD, when it achieved the self-governing important Roman city.
status of a municipium. It fell to the Suevi in AD 468.
AD 73 Emperor Vespasian 415 Visigoths invade the peninsula 585 Visigoths take over
grants towns in the Iberian and drive out the Vandals and the Alani the Suevian kingdom,
Peninsula same rights as fixing their capital at
Latin towns in Italy AD 200 Christianity becomes Toledo in Spain
established in the peninsula
AD 1 AD 200 AD 400 AD 600
27 BC During the rule of the Emperor 409 Invasion by “barbarian” tribes from central
Augustus the Iberian Peninsula is Europe: the Vandals, the Alani and the Suevi Visigothic
divided into three; Lusitania is the chapel at
name given to the central province 411 Suevian kingdom established in São Frutuoso
south of the River Douro Galicia and northern Portugal (see p283)
Moorish Domination and

Christian Reconquest
When Muslims from North Africa defeated the Visigoths
in 711, the Iberian Peninsula became a province of the
Caliphate of Damascus. Then, in 756, Abd al Rahman
established the independent kingdom of Al Andalus, his
capital Córdoba becoming one of the world’s great centres
of culture. Moorish control of the peninsula remained virtually
Iberian Peninsula in 1100
undisputed for the next 300 years until the small Christian
Country of Portucale
kingdoms in the north began the Reconquest. In the 11th
Kingdom of León and Castile
century, as Moorish power waned, “Portucale” was just a
Moorish kingdoms
small county of the Kingdom of León and Castile, centred on
the Douro. It became independent after Afonso Henriques
defeated the Moors at Ourique in 1139.
Without the Virgin to watch
over them, the Faro fishermen’s
nets are empty.
Moorish Plate
Vivid depictions of a hunting
dog, a falcon and a gazelle
decorate this 11th-century
plate found at Mértola, a
river port on the Guadiana
used by eastern traders.
The fishermen set off

with new hope.
Coexistence
Under Moorish rule,
co-operation
between the faiths
was common. This
miniature from the
13th century shows
the friendly meeting
of two knights, one
a Christian, the
other a Moor.
711 Large Muslim army of Berbers and Arabs (the Moors) conquers 10th-century
Iberian Peninsula following dispute over Visigothic succession Hispano-Moorish
ivory casket
722 Christian victory at 868 Vímara Peres
Covadonga in Asturias marks takes Porto from 878 Christian forces
start of gradual reconquest the Moors recapture Coimbra
AD 700 AD 800 AD 900 AD 1000
955 Moorish leader 1008–31 Civil

756 Battle of Al Musara; Abd al Rahman
Al Mansur retakes war; Al Andalus
defeats governor of Córdoba and founds divided into
Coimbra, then forces
kingdom of Al Andalus small kingdoms
Christian frontier back
Nora, a bucket wheel for raising to the River Douro known as taifas
water introduced by the Moors
Stone Relief of São Tiago

In wars against the Moors, Where to See
the apostle St James Moorish Portugal
(São Tiago) assumed
a special role. At The influence of the Moors is
Ourique in 1139, strongest in the south, in towns
soldiers claimed like Lagos (see p326), Faro (p332)
to have seen him and Silves, where they ruled for
leading the Christian longer and the architecture (p27)
forces into battle. retains many Arab features. In
Mértola (p319), the church preserves
much of the old mosque. Further
north, the Castelo dos Mouros,
in Sintra (p163), and many other
12th-century Silver Dirham fortresses were taken over and
This coin was minted at Beja by rebuilt by the Christians.
the Almohads, a Muslim sect
even stricter than their
forerunners, the Almoravids.
The lost statue of

the Virgin is recovered
from the sea and This cistern well was found
restored to its rightful on the site of the archaeological
place on the walls. museum at Silves, a Moorish
centre in the Algarve (p329).
Out at sea the
fishermen’s nets
are full once more.
Capture of Lisbon
The Reconquest was
given the status of a
crusade by the pope.
Lisbon was taken in
1147 with the aid of
English troops bound
for the Holy Land.
Faro Under Moorish Rule

Christians who lived under Moorish rule were called Mozarabs.
At Faro they placed a statue of the Virgin on the walls of the
city, but resentful Muslims took the statue down. These four
scenes from the Cantigas de Santa Maria tell the story of
the miracle that followed.
1097 Alfonso VI of León and Castile entrusts 1139 Battle of Ourique; 1143 Treaty of 1165–9 Geraldo sem Pavor
Portucale to his son-in-law Henry of Burgundy Afonso Henriques Zamora captures a number of cities
declares himself establishes from the Almohads,
1086 Invasion of the Almoravids
King of Portugal Portugal’s including Évora and Badajoz
independence
1050 1100 1150

1128 Battle of São 1153 Founding of Cistercian
1064 Christians Mamede; Afonso
regain Coimbra Abbey at Alcobaça
Henriques defeats
his mother Teresa 1147 Fall of Lisbon to Crusader army;
to win control of Almoravid empire falls to the Almohads
Henry of Burgundy county of Portucale
The New Kingdom

The Portuguese Reconquest was completed in 1249 when
Afonso III captured Faro in the Algarve. His successor, King
Dinis, encouraged agriculture and commerce, earning the
nickname of the “farmer king”. He also built castles to defend
the border from Castilian attack and expanded the navy.
Territorial disputes with Castile came to a head in 1383 when
King Fernando died and his son-in-law, Juan I of Castile, Iberian Peninsula in 1200
claimed the Portuguese throne for his wife Beatriz. Juan’s Kingdom of Portugal
opponents favoured Pedro I’s illegitimate son, João of Avis, Spanish kingdoms
elected king by the cortes (parliament) in Coimbra in 1385. Territory under Moorish rule
The faithful dog at the feet

of the deceased was a common
feature of Gothic tombs.
Coat of arms of
Portugal
The frieze shows

scenes from the
life of Pedro
and Inês.
Cancioneiro da Ajuda The aedicules

King Dinis was a fine musician and contain finely
poet. This illumination is from a carved scenes
collection of troubadour songs, from the life of St
many by the king himself. Bartholomew, Dom
Pedro’s patron saint.
Fortifications of Serpa
King Dinis had a chain of fortified towns
and castles built along the borders with
Castile and Moorish Spain. This 16th-century
drawing shows the medieval walls and
towers of Serpa (see p316).
1185 Sancho I becomes Leiria Castle 1254 The

king; his victories in the cortes held at
Algarve are reversed 1211 First cortes
Leiria includes
by Al-Mansur, the (parliament) held
representatives
Almohad caliph at Coimbra
of the towns
1200 1250
1173 Remains of St 1179 1248 Anarchic reign of Sancho II ends in 1256 Lisbon
Vincent brought Portugal his deposition by his brother Afonso III becomes
from Cabo de São recognized capital of
as kingdom 1249 Afonso III completes reconquest Portugal
Vicente to Lisbon of the Algarve, but his claim to
by the in place
pope Afonso III sovereignty is challenged by Castile of Coimbra
St Isabel (1271–1336)
King Dinis did not approve of his Where to See
wife’s acts of charity. A legend Medieval Portugal
tells how the bread Queen Isabel
was about to distribute to the Of the many castles built or
poor turned into roses when she rebuilt in this period, the most
was challenged by her husband. picturesque are at Almourol (see
p195) and Óbidos. In the citadel
of Bragança (pp264–5) stands the
Domus Municipalis, a medieval
meeting hall. Most surviving
Romanesque buildings, however,
are religious: the cathedrals in
Porto, Lisbon (p76) and Coimbra
(p208) and many smaller churches
in the north, such as those at
Rates (p278), Roriz (p254) and
Six angels support Bravães (p273).
the recumbent king.
Óbidos Castle, now a pousada,

Cross of Sancho I was rebuilt by King Dinis when
Sancho’s reign (1185– he gave this fairy-tale town to his
1211) saw royal power wife Isabel as a wedding present
and wealth increase in 1282 (p180).
despite disputes
between the king
and his bishops over
papal authority.
Tomb of Pedro I
The Gothic carvings on the royal
tomb at Alcobaça (see pp184–5)
St Bartholomew are the finest of their kind in Portugal. The Porto’s Sé (p246) has been much
is martyred by forthright Pedro, who ruled from 1357–67, altered, but the twin-towered
being flayed alive. is remembered chiefly for the tragic tale of west front retains its original
his murdered mistress, Inês de Castro, whose 13th-century character.
matching tomb stands facing Pedro’s.
1279–1325 King Dinis consolidates 1355 After murder of Inês de

Portugal’s independence Castro, Pedro takes up arms 1383 João of Avis ends
against his father Afonso IV regency of Leonor Teles 1384 Juan I of
1288 Portugal’s first and proclaims himself Castile invades
university founded 1319 Foundation of the defender of the realm Portugal
in Lisbon Order of Christ (see p191)
1300 1350
1297 Castile Knight of the 1336 Death 1357 Accession
recognizes Order of Christ of St Isabel of Pedro I, who
Portugal’s of Portugal has murderers 1372 Fernando I’s
sovereignty 1349 Following Black Death, of Inês de unpopular marriage
over the a law is passed enforcing Castro brutally to Leonor Teles leads
Algarve compulsory rural labour executed to riots
The House of Avis

After João of Avis had defeated the Castilians in 1385 to become
João I of Portugal, he strengthened his position through an
important alliance with England. His long reign saw the start of
Portuguese imperialism and the beginning of maritime expeditions
promoted by his son, Henry the Navigator (see pp52–3). Further
voyages of discovery in the reign of Manuel I “the Fortunate”, led to
trade with India and the East and, following Afonso de Albuquerque’s Iberian Peninsula in 1500
capture of Goa, initially brought great wealth. So, too, did the Portugal
colonization of Brazil. However, the lure of overseas adventure Spain (Castile and Aragon)
weakened mainland Portugal, which suffered serious depopulation.
The age of expansion ended when a foolhardy military expedition
to Morocco, led by King Sebastião, was soundly defeated in 1578.
16th-century Porcelain Plate

In 1557 the Portuguese were
granted Macao as a trading
post in China. This Chinese plate
bears the arms of Matias de
Albuquerque, a descendant of
the great Afonso, conqueror of Goa.
Arms of English
royal family
John of Gaunt used the

alliance with Portugal to
pursue his own claim
to the throne of Castile.
Troops Landing at Arzila

The kings of the Avis dynasty
constantly sought to extend their Luís de Camões
domains to Morocco, where they After serving in India and
established a small colony around Morocco, where he lost
Tangier. This Flemish tapestry an eye, the poet wrote
celebrates Afonso V’s capture Os Lusíadas (see p194),
of Arzila in 1471. an epic on the Discoveries.
c.1425 Leal Conselheiro, a

1385 João I defeats Castilian 1496 Jews expelled from the
army at Battle of Aljubarrota treatise on courtly behaviour
written by King Duarte country or forcibly converted
1441 Lagos is site of
1415 Capture of first slave market in 1495–1521 Reign of Manuel I
Ceuta in Morocco modern Europe and great period of discoveries
1400 1425 1450 1475
1471 Conquest of Moroccan 1494 Spain

1386 Alliance with 1418 Henry fortresses of Arzila and Tangier and Portugal
England formalized the Navigator divide the
1482–3 João II successfully Atlantic region
by Treaty of made governor King
resists the Conspiracy by Treaty of
Windsor of the Algarve Duarte
of the Nobles Tordesillas
Wedding of Manuel I
Manuel’s reign marked the Where to See
highest point in Portugal’s Gothic Portugal
golden age of discovery and
conquest. His marriages were Many churches include Gothic
made to reinforce ties with elements, such as the cloister of
Spain. Shown here is his third: the Sé in Porto (see p246) and the
to Leonor, sister of Carlos I of richly sculpted portal of the Sé in
Spain, in 1518. Évora (p310). Tomar’s Convento de
Cristo (pp192–3) is predominantly
Gothic, as is the church at Alcobaça
(pp184–5). The finest church,
however, is at Batalha, built in
João I drew support from the thanks for João I’s victory at the
merchants of Lisbon and Porto Battle of Aljubarrota. It also contains
rather than the nobles, many of major examples of Manueline
whom sided with Castile. architecture (see pp28–9).
Archbishop of
Braga
Portugal’s
bishops took
João’s side after Batalha (pp188–9) incorporates
the pope had a wide range of Gothic styles.
refused to
legitimize the
The plain, lofty nave contrasts
children of Inês with the ornamented exterior.
de Castro (see
pp48–9).
João I and the English

João’s alliance with England against Castile
led to his marriage in 1387 to Philippa of
Lancaster, daughter of John of Gaunt, son of Battle of Alcácer-Quibir (1578)
King Sebastião saw his African expedition as a
Edward III. This illustration from the chronicle
crusade against Islam. After Alcácer-Quibir, he
of Jean de Wavrin shows the new king and 8,000 of his troops lay dead, 15,000 captives
entertaining his father-in-law. were sold into slavery and the House of Avis
dynasty was doomed.
Belém Monstrance (see p28)

1531 Inquisition introduced into Portugal
1572 Publication of
1510 Beginning of 1536 Death of Gil Vicente, Portugal’s Os Lusíadas, a verse epic
Portuguese empire in Asia; greatest dramatist celebrating Portugal’s
Goa conquered by Afonso
history by Luís de Camões
de Albuquerque
1500 1525 1550 1575

c.1502 Work starts
1578 King Sebastião’s
on the Jerónimos 1521–57 Reign 1559 Jesuit
of João III, known expedition to Morocco
monastery in Belém University
as “the Pious” ends in his death and
(see pp108–9) established at total defeat at the Battle
1498 Vasco da Gama Gil Vicente Évora (see p310) of Alcácer-Quibir
reaches India
52  INtrOduCING POrtuGAl
The Age of Discovery

Portugal’s astonishing period of conquest and exploration
began in 1415 with the capture of the North African city
of Ceuta. Maritime expeditions into the Atlantic and along
the West African coast followed, motivated by traditional
Christian hostility towards Islam and desire for commercial
gain. Great riches were made from the gold and slaves
taken from the Guinea coast, but the real breakthrough for Armillary Sphere
Portuguese imperialism occurred in 1498 when Vasco da This celestial globe with the earth
Gama (see p110) reached India. Portugal soon controlled the in its centre was used by navigators
Indian Ocean and the spice trade, and established an eastern for measuring the positions of the
stars. It became the personal
capital at Goa. With Pedro Álvares Cabral’s “discovery” of emblem of Manuel I.
Brazil, Portugal became a mercantile
super-power rivalled only by Spain.
1500–1501 Gaspar
Corte Real reaches
Newfoundland.
1427 Diogo de
Silves discovers
Magellan (c.1480–1521) the Azores.
With Spanish funding,
Portuguese sailor Fernão 1434 Gil Eanes
de Magalhães, known as rounds Cape Bojador
Magellan, led the first (Western Sahara).
circumnavigation of the
globe (1519–22). He was 1460 Diogo
killed in the Philippines Gomes discovers
before the voyage’s end. the Cape Verde
archipelago.
1470s
Discovery of
island of São Tomé.
1482 Diogo
1500 Cão reaches
Pedro the mouth of
Álvares the Congo.
Cabral
1485 On his third
reaches
voyage Diogo Cão
Brazil.
reaches Cape Cross
(Namibia).
1488 Bartolomeu
Dias rounds Cape
of Good Hope.
African Ivory
Salt Cellar
This 16th-century
ivory carving shows
Portuguese warriors
The Adoration of the Magi supporting a globe
Painted for Viseu Cathedral shortly after Cabral and a ship. A sailor
returned from Brazil in 1500, this panel is attributed peers out from
to Grão Vasco (see p219). The second king, Baltazar, the crow’s nest
is depicted as a Tupi Indian. at the top.
the history of portugal  53
Henry the Navigator

Although he did not sail himself, Henry (1394–1460),
the third son of João I, laid the foundations for
Portugal’s maritime expansion that were later built
upon by João II and consolidated by Manuel I. As
Master of the wealthy Order of Christ and Governor
of the Algarve, Henry
was able to finance
expeditions along
the African coast.
By the time he died
Japanese Screen (c.1600) he had a monopoly
This screen shows traders unloading a nau, or on all trade south
great ship. Between 1575 and their expulsion of Cape Bojador.
in 1638, the Portuguese monopolized the Legend tells that
carrying trade between China and Japan. he founded a great
school of navigation
either at Sagres (see
p326) or Lagos.
Key
Discoverers’ routes
Cloves
1543
Portuguese
arrive in Pepper
Japan.
Nutmeg
1513 Trading
1510 posts set up in
Capture China at Macau
and Canton. Cinnamon
of Goa.
1498 1512 Portuguese The Spice Trade
Vasco reach Ternate in Exotic spices were a great source
da Gama 1518 the Moluccas of wealth for Portugal. The much-
reaches Fortress (Spice Islands).
Calicut in
disputed Moluccas, or Spice
built in Islands, were purchased from
India. Colombo
Spain in 1528.
(Sri Lanka).
Cross of the Order

Crow’s nest of Christ (see p191)
Portuguese Discoveries Square sail on

foremast
The systematic attempt to find a sea route
to India, which led to a monopoly of the spice
trade, began in 1482 with the first voyage of
Diogo Cão, who planted a padrão (stone
cross) on the shores where he landed.
Lateen-rigged Caravel
These ships with three
triangular sails were
favoured by the first
Portuguese explorers who
sailed close to the African
coast. For later journeys
across the open ocean, square
sails were found more effective.
Spanish Rule
When Henrique, the Cardinal-King, died without an
heir in 1580, Philip II of Spain successfully claimed the
Portuguese throne through his mother, a daughter of
Manuel I. Under Spanish rule, influential positions were
held by Portuguese nobles, but a common foreign
policy led to a steady loss of colonies to the Dutch. In
1640 a Portuguese revolt took place in Lisbon and the
Duke of Bragança was chosen to become King João IV. Restoration of João IV
Spain retaliated and the ensuing war continued until Two weeks after his supporters had
1668. Meanwhile Portugal was forced to rely ousted the Spanish in 1640, João was
crowned on a platform outside the
economically on her overseas territories. Royal Palace in Lisbon.
Spanish Armada
In 1588 Philip II of Spain The Graça fort
hoped to invade England with was held by
his great fleet. It sailed from the Spanish.
Lisbon where it had been
equipped and provisioned.
War of Restoration
Portugal’s long war against Spain (1640–
68) was fought mostly in the Alentejo.
This azulejo panel from Palácio Fronteira
António Vieira in Lisbon (see p127) shows the Battle of
Vieira (1606–97) was a Linhas de Elvas (1658). A Portuguese army
Jesuit priest, writer and besieged in Elvas (see pp302–3) was
orator. He was sent relieved by fresh troops from Estremoz,
on many diplomatic who soundly defeated the Spanish.
missions and clashed
with the Inquisition
over his support for
Christianized Jews.
1580 Battle of Alcântara; Spanish invade and 1614 Publication of the 1624 Dutch 1631
Philip II of Spain becomes King of Portugal Peregrinação by Fernão capture Birth of
Mendes Pinto, an account Portuguese painter
1588 Spanish Armada of his travels in Asia in the colony of Bahia Josefa de
sets sail from Lisbon to mid-16th century Óbidos
in Brazil
invade England
1580 1600 1620
1583 Philip returns to Spain leaving 1626 Jesuit
his nephew, Cardinal-Archduke missionary
Albert of Austria, as viceroy Church of São Vicente de António de
1581 The king invites Italian architect Filippo Fora (see p74) by Filippo Andrade crosses
Terzi to Lisbon to remodel the Royal Palace Terzi and Baltasar Álvares, the Himalayas
and to build many churches completed in 1627 into Tibet
Indo-Portuguese Contador
Luxury cabinets, known as Where to See
contadores, were made from teak 17th-Century Portugal
and ebony in Portugal’s overseas
colonies. Many came from Goa. Under Spanish rule an austere
This fine 17th-century example style of architecture prevailed,
is from the Museu Nacional de typified by São Vicente de
Arte Antiga (see pp98–101). Fora (see p74) in Lisbon, the Sé
Nova in Coimbra (p210) and
Santarém’s Jesuit church (p197).
At Vila Viçosa the style is evident
The besieged Portuguese army at in the long, plain façade of the
Elvas was retreating from a previous palace of the dukes of Bragança
unsuccessful campaign in Spain. (pp304–5). Colourful azulejos
from the period can be seen
Stout bastions deflected
the attackers’ cannon fire.
at Palácio Fronteira (p127)
and the Museu Nacional do
Azulejo (pp124–5).
Museu dos Biscainhos in

Braga (p283) was built by rich
emigrants returning from Brazil.
Enlarged in later centuries, it
retains its 17th-century core.
The relieving army from

Estremoz surprised and routed
the Spanish.
Josefa de Óbidos The Inquisition

Born in Spain, Josefa (1631– In the 16th and 17th centuries, the
84) came to Óbidos (see Inquisition, set up by the Catholic church,
pp180–81) when young. burned heretics in Lisbon’s Terreiro do
Trained by her father, she Paço to ensure religious conformity.
painted religious subjects
and realistic still lifes.
Pedro II
1639 Portuguese vessels 1656 Death of João 1665 Spanish
barred from Japanese ports IV; his widow, Luisa defeated at Battle 1683 Pedro II
de Guzmán, is of Montes Claros becomes King
1654 Fall of Pernambuco; regent for young
Dutch driven from Brazil 1668 Spain recognizes
King Afonso VI
Portuguese independence
1640 1660 1680

1667 Degenerate Afonso VI is
Catherine of Bragança
deposed by his brother Pedro,
1697 Gold discovered in Minas
1640 The Restoration: 4th who marries Afonso’s French
Gerais region of Brazil
Duke of Bragança crowned wife and becomes regent
King João IV after uprising 1662 Catherine of Bragança 1698 Last meeting
against Spanish rule marries Charles II of England of Portuguese cortes
The Age of Absolutism

The 18th century was a period of mixed fortune for Tightrope Walker
This device, used at
Portugal. Despite vast revenues from Brazilian gold and
Coimbra University in
diamonds, João V almost bankrupted the country with his the later 18th century,
extravagance. In contrast, Pombal, chief minister of João’s shows the centre of
successor José I, applied the ideas of the Enlightenment, gravity when an
object is in balance.
reforming government, commerce and education. When
Maria I succeeded in 1777, she reversed many of Pombal’s
decrees. The French invasion of 1807 forced Maria,
by then mad, and the royal family into exile in Brazil. The library contains
richly carved Baroque
bookcases and more
than 40,000 volumes.
Marquês de Pombal (1699–1782)

After the 1755 earthquake (see pp66–7),
Pombal insisted that Lisbon be rebuilt on
strictly rational lines. Here he proudly
presents the new city.
Queen’s apartments
João V
The basilica contains many
This miniature (1720) by Castriotto marble statues made by
shows João V drinking chocolate, a Italian masters set amid a
fashionable drink of the nobility, stunning scheme of yellow,
served to him by the Infante Miguel. pink, red and blue marble.
1703 Methuen Treaty with 1723 Building of Baroque 1755 Earthquake devastates
Britain secures market for staircase of Bom Jesus near Lisbon and much of
Portuguese wines in Britain, Braga (see pp284–5) southern Portugal
and for British woollen 1730 Consecration of basilica
goods in Portugal at monastery-palace at Mafra
1700 1720 1740
1706–50 Reign of Bom Jesus 1733 First Portuguese 1748 First water flows
João V “the do Monte opera, The Patience of along Águas Livres
Magnanimous”, a Socrates by António de aqueduct in Lisbon
period of great Almeida, performed at
1750 José I succeeds João V
artistic extravagance Royal Palace in Lisbon
Águas Livres
Aqueduct Where to See
Opened in 1748, the 18th-Century Portugal
aqueduct was paid
for by the citizens of Baroque churches are found
Lisbon. João V had throughout Portugal, many with
it built across the ornate interiors of gilded wood
Alcântara valley (talha dourada) such as São
against the advice Francisco (see p247) and Santa
of his engineers. Clara (p245) in Porto. Tiled
interiors are also very common
(pp26–7). Coimbra University
houses the glittering Capela de
São Miguel and a fine Baroque
18th-Century Dressing Chair library. As well as the palaces
Monks’ This richly gilded walnut chair at Mafra and Queluz, many
refectory has sturdy cabriole legs, showing elegant country houses, notably
the influence of the English the Casa de Mateus, date from
Queen Anne style. this era (pp260–61).
Queluz Palace (pp170–71),

residence of Maria I, was begun
in 1747. It is the finest example of
The bell towers
contain a carillon
Rococo architecture in Portugal.
of 114 bells.
Monastery at Mafra
Begun in 1717, this vast monument to João The King’s The Capela de São Miguel at
V incorporates a royal palace, a church and apartments are Coimbra University (pp212–13)
a monastery (see p158). It took 38 years to separated from was redecorated in Baroque
the Queen’s by style in the reign of João V.
complete and contains some 880 rooms a long gallery.
and 300 monks’ cells.
1808 French forced

1756 Douro valley becomes world’s 1772 Pombal reorganizes Coimbra to retreat by Anglo-
first demarcated wine region University, adding mathematics and Portuguese force
natural sciences to the syllabus Maria I
1759 Pombal expels
under Sir Arthur
Jesuits from Portugal 1777 Accession of Maria I, Wellesley; Treaty
who dismisses Pombal of Sintra
1760 1780 1800

1762 Spain 1792 Maria I’s
1775 Machado de 1789 Portuguese
declares war son João
Castro’s statue of José I suppress Brazilian
on Portugal named regent
unveiled as centrepiece independence
movement in 1807 The French, under
Statue of José I of reconstructed Lisbon
Minas Gerais Junot, invade Portugal;
royal family flees to Brazil
Reform and Revolution 1820 Revolution

The revolution led
to the royal family’s
Portugal suffered many depredations during
return from Brazil
the upheavals of the Peninsular War, and after and a new Liberal
the loss of Brazil. A period of chaos culminated, constitution. This
in 1832, in civil war between the Liberal Pedro IV proved unworkable
and was revoked
and the Absolutist Miguel: the War of the Two
following an army
Brothers. Though the Liberals won, later coup in 1823.
governments were often reactionary. The
second half of the century saw a period of
stability and industrial growth, but attempts Personification
at expansion in Africa failed. By 1910, discontent Republican ships shell the king’s of Portuguese
palace in Lisbon.
with the constitutional monarchy was such Republic
that a Republican uprising forced King
Manuel II into exile.
Zé Povinho
This long-suffering,
Everyman figure first
appeared in 1875,
created by artist and potter
Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro.
He expressed the
concerns of the
average Portuguese
working man.
Priests are led away by

Republican soldiers.
The Birth of the Republic

Republicanism spread among the middle classes
and the army via a secret society called the
Carbonária. The revolution took place in Lisbon in
Peninsular War (1808–14)
October 1910 and lasted less than five days. This
Napoleon tried twice to invade Portugal but was
repulsed by an Anglo-Portuguese force led by contemporary poster celebrates the main events.
Wellington. A key victory for the allies came at
Buçaco (see pp216–17) in 1810.
1809–20 Regency dominated by Charles 1853 First 1856

Stuart, British minister at Lisbon Portuguese Opening of
postage first railway
1822 Radical new constitution.
Teatro Nacional stamps from Lisbon
Brazil becomes independent issued to Carregado
Dona Maria II
under João VI’s son Pedro
1810 1830 1850

1826 Moderate charter introduced by 1842 Founding of 1851–80 The
Pedro IV, who then abdicates in favour National Theatre Regeneration:
of his young daughter Maria 1834 Monasteries dissolved period of
1810 Battle 1828 Miguel, who is industrial
1832–4 War of the Two Brothers; development
of Buçaco betrothed to his niece
defeat of Absolutist Miguel 5 Reis stamp
Maria, is crowned king
The Drunkards by
José Malhôa Where to See
Malhôa (1855–1933) 19th-Century Portugal
created a virtual social
history of the period Neo-Classicism, which
in genre paintings like dominated the early part of the
this one, showing century, can be seen in Lisbon’s
a group of peasants Palácio da Ajuda (see p113).
sampling new wine. More Romantic historical styles
emerged later in the century,
ranging from the fantastical Neo-
Gothic of the Palácio da Pena
(pp166–7) in Sintra to the subtle
King Manuel II flees Orientalism of Monserrate (p161).
to England from Ericeira Notable stations associated with
aboard the royal yacht.
the spread of Portugal’s railways
include Lisbon’s Rossio and São
Bento in Porto (p245).
Portugal and Africa

Captain Serpa Pinto’s crossing Rossio station (p84) in Lisbon
of southern Africa in 1879 led has a striking façade in Neo-
to a plan to form a Portuguese Manueline style by José Luís
colony from coast to coast. Monteiro. Completed in 1887,
the station contains one of the
first iron vaults in Portugal.
Republican troops set

up barricades at key points
in Lisbon. They meet with
little opposition.
Leading figures of the Republican party

Ponte de Dom Luís I (p248)
in Porto dates from 1886. Its two-tier
Eça de Queirós design by Teófilo Seyrig was
The great novelist (1845– inspired by the nearby railway
1900) painted a scathing bridge built by Gustave Eiffel.
picture of the Portuguese
bourgeoisie. He spent many
years abroad as a diplomat.
1865–8 Coalition 1888 Publication of Os 1910

of two main parties Maiasi by Eça de Queirós, Manuel II Revolution:
a satirical examination of Manuel II
1869 Slave trade
Portuguese lethargy abdicates and
abolished in all
Portuguese territories flees into exile
1870 1890 1910

1861–89 Reign 1886 Building of 1908 Carlos I and his heir, Luís,
of moderate Luís I Ponte de Dom assassinated by Republicans
Luís I in Porto
1877 Serpa Pinto sets out 1890 Plan to link African colonies of
from Benguela in Angola to Mozambique and Angola is thwarted
cross southern Africa by ultimatum from the British
Modern Portugal 1949 Portugal

signs the
North Atlantic
The early years of the new Republic were marked by political Treaty and
and economic crisis, until a military coup in 1926 paved the becomes a
founder
way for the New State of 1933. Under the oppressive regime member of
of prime minister António Salazar, the country was freed NATO
of its debts, but suffered poverty and unemployment.
Portugal’s reliance on its African colonies led to costly wars,
unrest in the army and the overthrow of the government in
1974. The painful return to democracy was rewarded by
admission to the European Community in 1986.
1966 Opening of Ponte Salazar
(now Ponte 25 de Abril) across
the Tagus (see p116)
1933 Founding
of the Estado
Novo (New
State), harsh
dictatorship led
by Salazar. 1966 National football team with
Government brilliant Eusébio (centre, kneeling)
bans all strikes 1935 Death of poet reach quarter-finals of World Cup
and censors the Fernando Pessoa who wrote
1922 First flight across press, crushing under four different names, 1955 Armenian oil
the South Atlantic by opposition in four distinct styles. This magnate Calouste
Gago Coutinho and through brutal portrait by José de Almada Gulbenkian dies leaving
Sacadura Cabral secret police Negreiros is in Lisbon’s 2,355 million escudos
force, the PIDE Centro de Arte Moderna (£55 million) to set up
1911 Women
(see p122) a foundation for the
given the vote
arts and education
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960
1916 1928 António Salazar 1958 In the pre-

Portugal made finance minister; 1949 sidential elections,
enters World he imposes austerity Neurosurgeon the opposition
1918 measures, balancing
War I on side António Egas candidate General
Assassination the budget by 1929. Delgado wins
of the British of President Moniz wins
and French In 1932 he becomes Nobel Prize for so much support
Sidónio Pais; prime minister that the result
post-war years Medicine for
his work is rigged against
are period of him. He is later
social unrest developing the
prefrontal assassinated
with frequent
strikes and lobotomy
1917 Three 1961 India
peasant children changes of annexes
in Fátima claim government Portuguese
to see Virgin colonies of
1942 Salazar meets
Mary; site of Goa, Damão
vision becomes Spanish dictator
Franco to confirm and Diu
focus of major
pilgrimage mutual policy of
non-aggression
1926 Coup puts military
in charge of Republic;
General Carmona is new
president, holding office
until his death in 1951
1939–45 In World War II

Portugal is theoretically
neutral but, after threats to
her shipping, is forced to
sell minerals to Germany.
From 1943 Portugal permits
British and American bases
in the Azores. Here Salazar
(centre) talks to troops
stationed there
1986 Portugal joins European

Community. Soares becomes
the first civilian president of
Portugal in 60 years 1998 Lisbon hosts
Expo ’98; the
mascot Gil
1985 Social Democrats, embodies the
under Aníbal Cavaco theme of water
Silva, come to power and the oceans
1974 Carnation
Revolution: in a
near-bloodless
coup, Marcelo
Caetano’s regime is
overthrown by the 2004
MFA (Armed Forces Portugal hosts the Euro 2004
Movement), a group football tournament
of discontented left-
wing army officers 1995 António 2011 Prime Minister
Guterres of the José Socrates steps
Socialist Party down after two terms;
elected prime he is replaced by
minister Pedro Passos Coelho
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020

1976 In the first free 2016 Portugal wins
elections for nearly 1988 Rosa Mota (centre) wins UEFA Euro 2016 under
50 years, the Socialist women’s marathon at the Olympic Captain Cristiano
Mário Soares becomes Games in Seoul Ronaldo. Former
prime minister Prime Minister, and
United Nations High
Commissioner for
1975 All of Portugal’s
Refugees, António
remaining colonies
Guterres is elected
except Macao are
United Nations
granted independence,
Secretary-General
putting an end to long,
unwinnable wars in
Africa. Troops, such
as these on patrol in
the Angolan bush, are
hastily brought home
The Carnation Revolution

The revolution of 25 April 1974 gained its popular name when people began
placing red carnations in the barrels of soldiers’ guns. Led by army officers disaffected
by the colonial wars in Africa, the revolution heralded a period of
great celebration, as Portugal emerged from decades
of insularity. The political situation, how-
ever, was chaotic: the new government
pushed through a controversial
programme of nationalization and land
reform in favour of the peasants, but in
November 1975 the left-wing radicals
were ousted by a short-lived Newspaper headline
counter-coup. announcing revolution
LISBON AREA
BY AREA
Introducing Lisbon 64 –69

Alfama 70–81
Baixa and Avenida 82–89
Bairro Alto and Estrela 90–101
Belém 102–113
Further Afield 114–127
Shopping in Lisbon 128–129
Entertainment in Lisbon 130–131
Lisbon Street Finder 132–145
64  LISBON
Lisbon at a Glance
Portugal’s capital sits on the north bank of the Tagus
estuary, 17 km (11miles) from the Atlantic. The city
has a population of about 550,000, but the conur
bation of “Grande Lisboa”, which has engulfed many
surrounding villages, has nearly two million people.
Razed to the ground by the earthquake of 1755 (see
pp66–7), the city centre is essentially 18th century,
with carefully planned, elegant streets in the Baixa.
On the hills on either side of the centre, the narrow
streets of the Alfama and Bairro Alto make it a personal,
approachable city. Since its days of glory during the
Age of Discovery, when the city was at the forefront of The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
world trade, Lisbon has been an important port. Today houses paintings, decorative art and
the docks have moved; however, the great monuments sculpture. Of particular interest are the
Flemish-influenced Portuguese paintings
in Belém still bear witness to the city’s maritime past. such as this Apparition of Christ to the
Virgin by Jorge Afonso (see pp98–9).
The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a magnificent 16th-century

monastery. Commissioned by Manuel I, much of it is built
in the peculiarly Portuguese style of architecture, known
as Manueline. The extravagantly sculpted south portal
of the church, designed by João de Castilho in 1516, is
one of the finest expressions of the style (see pp108–9).
Belém
(see pp102–13)
The Torre de Belém was a beacon

for navigators returning from the
0 metres 500
Indies and the New World, and
0 yards 500 a symbol of Portuguese naval
power (see p112).
The splendid Baroque fountain in Lisbon’s Rossio square
INTRODUCING LISBON  65
Further Afield
(see pp114–27)
The Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian exhi-
bits stunning art
and sculpture
bequeathed
to Portugal by
the millionaire
Calouste Gul-
benkian (see
pp118–21).
The Elevador de Santa
Justa, built at the turn
of the 20th century,
is a wrought-iron lift
decorated with filigree
that links the Baixa The Museu Nacional
quarter with the Largo do Azulejo, housed in
do Carmo (see p88). the cloisters of the
0 kilometres
Convento da Madre de
4
Deus, traces the history of
0 miles 2 Portuguese tiles and tile-
making (see pp124–5).
Baixa and
Avenida
(see pp82–89)
Alfama
(see pp70–81)
Bairro Alto
and Estrela
(see pp90–101)
The Castelo de
São Jorge, once a
Moorish castle and
then the abode of
the Portuguese kings,
was transformed in
the 1930s into tranquil
public gardens. The
battlements afford The Sé, Lisbon’s greatly
spectacular views of restored cathedral, is a sturdy
the city (see pp80–81). Romanesque building noted
for its beautiful rose window.
Ecclesiastical robes and silver
0 metres 500
are among the many religious
0 yards 500 objects on display in the
treasury (see p76).
66  LISBON
The 1755 Lisbon Earthquake

The first tremor of the devastating earthquake was felt at
9:30am on 1 November. A few minutes later there was a
second, far more violent shock, reducing over half the city
to rubble. Although the epicentre was close to the Algarve,
Lisbon, as the most populated area, bore the worst. Over
20 churches collapsed, crushing the crowds who had
assembled for All Saints’ Day. A third shock was followed
by fires which quickly spread. An hour later, huge waves
came rolling in from the Tagus and flooded the lower part
This anonymous painting of the
of the city. Most of Portugal suffered damage and the
arrival of a papal ambassador at court
shock was felt as far away as Italy. It is estimated that in 1693 shows how Terreiro do Paço
15,000 people lost their lives in Lisbon alone. looked before the earthquake.
Some buildings that might have

survived an earthquake alone were
destroyed by the fire that followed.
The old royal palace, the 16th-century

Paço da Ribeira, was utterly ruined by the
earthquake and ensuing flood.
The royal family was staying at the

palace in Belém, a place far less
affected than Lisbon, and survived
the disaster unscathed. Here the
king surveys the city’s devastation.
Ships crammed full of

people fleeing the fire were
wrecked and anchors
thrown up to water level. The Reconstruction
of Lisbon
No sooner had the tremors
abated than Sebastião José de
Carvalho e Melo, chief minister
to José I and later to become
Marquês de Pombal, was
outlining ideas for rebuilding
the city. While philosophers
Marquês de Pombal moralized, Pombal’s initial
(1699–1782) response is said to have been,
This detail is from an ex-voto painting “bury the dead and feed the
dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Estrela, given living”. He restored order, then began a progressive
by a grateful father in thanks for the sparing town-planning scheme. His efficient handling of the
of his daughter’s life in the earthquake. The crisis gained him almost total political control.
girl was found miraculously alive after being
buried under rubble for seven hours.
Reactions to the Disaster

The earthquake had a profound effect
on European thought. Eyewitness
accounts appeared in the papers,
many written by foreigners living in
Lisbon. A heated debate arose as to
whether the earthquake was a natural
phenomenon or an act of divine wrath.
Lisbon had been a flourishing city,
famed for its wealth – also for its
Inquisition and idolatry. Interpreting
French author, the quake as punishment, many
Voltaire preachers prophesied further catas
trophes. Leading literary figures debated
The ancient castle the significance of the event, among them Voltaire, who
walls succumbed wrote a poem about the disaster, propounding his views
to the reverberating that evil exists and man is weak and powerless, doomed to
shock waves. an unhappy fate on earth.
Flames erupted as the

candles lit for All Saints’
Day ignited the city’s
churches. The fire raged
for seven days.
Some of Lisbon’s finest

buildings were destroyed,
along with gold, jewellery,
priceless furniture, archives,
books and paintings.
At 11am, tidal waves

rolled into Terreiro do Churches, homes and public buildings
Paço. The Alcântara docks, all suffered in the disaster. The Royal Opera
to the west, bore the brunt House, here shown in ruins, was only
of the impact.
completed in March the same year.
A Depiction of the Earthquake

This anonymous German engraving of 1775 gives a vivid picture of the
scale of the disaster. Many who fled the flames made for the Tagus, but
were washed away in the huge waves which struck the Terreiro do
Paço. The human and material losses were incalculable.
Modern-day Lisbon holds many reminders

The reconstruction of the centre of Lisbon of the earthquake. Pombal’s innovative grid
took place rapidly. By the end of November the system is clearly visible in this aerial view of the
Marquês de Pombal had devised a strikingly Baixa (see pp82–9). The scheme took many years
modern scheme for a grid of parallel streets to complete, and the triumphal arch spanning
running from the waterfront to Rossio. The new Rua Augusta was not finished until over a
buildings are shown in yellow. century later, in 1873.
68  LISBON
Fado: the Music of Lisbon

Like blues music, fado is an expression of longing and
sorrow. Literally meaning “fate”, the term may be applied
to an individual song as well as the genre itself. The
music owes much to the concept known as saudade,
meaning a longing both for what has been lost, and for
what has never been attained, which perhaps accounts
for its emotional power. The people of Lisbon have
nurtured this poignant music in backstreet cafés and
restaurants for over 150 years, and it has altered little in
that time. It is sung as often by women as men, always
accompanied by the guitarra and viola (acoustic Spanish
guitar). Fado from Coimbra has developed its A depiction of the music’s bohemian
own lighter-hearted style. associations from the 1920s
Female fadistas traditionally

wear a black shawl in memory
of Maria Severa.
The guitarrista plays
the melody and will
occasionally perform a
solo instrumental piece.
Maria Severa (1810–36) was the first

great fadista and the subject of the first
Portuguese sound film in 1931. Her
scandalous life and early death are pivotal
to fado history, and her spiritual influence
has been enormous, inspiring fados,
poems, novels and plays.
Most instruments have The Guitarra

12 paired strings, like this one.
The double strings produce a Peculiar to Portuguese culture, the
resonant, silvery-sweet tone. guitarra is a flat-backed instrument
shaped like a mandolin, with eight,
ten or twelve strings, arranged in
pairs. It has evolved from a
simple 19th-century design
Delicate mother-of-pearl into a finely decorated piece,
inlaid flower motifs sometimes inlaid with mother-of-
pearl. The sound of the guitarra is
an essential ingredient of a good
Mother-of-pearl
fado, echoing and enhancing the
finger plate
singer’s melody line.
Alfredo Duarte (1891–1982)

was a renowned writer of fado
lyrics dealing with love,
death, longing, tragedy and
triumph. Affectionately
known as O Marceneiro (the
master carpenter) because
of his skill as a joiner, he is
still revered and his work
widely performed.
A cultural icon for the

Portuguese, Amália
Rodrigues (1921–99)
was the leading
exponent of fado
All kinds of themes may occur in fado. for over 50 years. She
This song of 1910, for example, celebrates crystallized the music’s
the dawning of the liberal republic. Such style in the post-war
songsheets remained a favoured means years, and made it
of dissemination, even after the first known around
records were made in 1904. the world.
The viola provides rhythm accompaniment,

but the player will never take a solo.
The music has long inspired great writers and

painters. O Fado (1910) by José Malhôa (see p59)
shows it in an intimate setting with the fadista
captivating his listener. The air of abandonment
underlines the earthiness of many of the songs.
The Fado House

Where to Enjoy Fado in Lisbon
Lisbon’s best fado houses are those
run by fadistas themselves. Based Any of these fado houses will offer you good food, wine and music
on a love of the music and on – or visit the Museu do Fado (see p75) for a fascinating exhibition on
relationships with other performers, the history of fado.
such houses usually offer a truer Café Luso O Faia
fado experience than the larger, Travessa da Queimada 10. Rua da Barroca 54–6.
tourist-oriented houses. A good Map 7 A3. Map 4 F2.
example is the Parreirinha de Tel 213 422 281. Tel 213 426 742.
Alfama, owned by Argentina Casa de Linhares Parreirinha de Alfama
Santos (centre left). Less slick, but Beco dos Armazéns do Linho 2. Beco do Espírito Santo 1.
more emotionally charged, are Map 8 D4. Tel 910 188 118. Map 8 E4.
performances of fado vadio, Tel 218 868 209.
Clube de Fado
“itinerant” fado, in humbler Rua S João de Senhor Vinho
restaurants and bars such as Praça 92. Map 8 D4. Rua do Meio à Lapa 18.
Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto. Tel 218 852 704. Map 4 D3. Tel 213 972 681.
LISBON  71
ALFAMA
It is difficult to believe that this humble Restoration work on some buildings is under
neighbourhood was once the most way in the most dilapidated areas, but daily
desirable quarter of Lisbon. For the Moors, life still revolves around local grocery stores
the tightly packed alleyways around the and small, cellar-like tavernas.
fortified castle comprised the whole city. Above the Alfama, the imposing Castelo
The seeds of decline were sown in the Middle de São Jorge crowns Lisbon’s eastern hill.
Ages when wealthy residents moved west This natural vantage point was a defensive
for fear of earthquakes, leaving the quarter stronghold and royal palace until the 16th
to fishermen and paupers. The buildings century; today it is a popular promenade,
survived the 1755 earthquake (see pp66–7) with spectacular views of the city and the
and, although there are no Moorish houses river from its reconstructed ramparts.
still standing, the quarter retains its kasbah- West of the Alfama stand the proud twin
like layout. Compact houses line steep towers of the Sé. To the northeast, the domed
streets and stairways, their façades strung church of Santa Engrácia and the white façade
with washing. of São Vicente de Fora dominate the skyline.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings
2 Museu de Artes Decorativas 8 Casa dos Bicos
Portuguesas q Castelo de São Jorge pp80–81
6 Museu Militar Belvederes
7 Museu do Fado
1 Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Churches w Miradouro da Graça
3 São Vicente de Fora Markets See also Street Finder
5 Santa Engrácia pp132–45
4 Feira da Ladra
9 Sé
0 Santo António à Sé
LÇA
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An antique tram passing through one of Alfama’s picturesque streets For keys to symbols see back flap
72  LISBON
Street-by-Street: Alfama
A fascinating quarter at any time of day, the Alfama
comes to life in the late afternoon and early evening
when the locals emerge at their doorways and the
small tavernas start to fill. A new generation of
younger residents has resulted in a small number
of design-led shops and bars. Given the steep streets
and steps of the quarter, the least strenuous approach
is to start at the top and work your way down.
A walk around the maze of winding alleyways will On Largo das Portas do Sol, café tables
reveal picturesque corners and crumbling look out over the Alfama towards the
Tagus estuary. Portas do Sol was one of
churches as well as panoramic views from the entrance gates to the old city.
the shady terraces, such as the
L.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia. DA
S The church of Santa Luzia has
PO
18th-century blue and white

RT
azulejo panels on its south wall.

AS D
Statue of St Vincent BE
CO
O SOL
DE
SA
Largo das Portas do Sol has its NT
A
own terrace viewpoint on a HE
LE
converted rooftop on the east N
A
side of the Santa Luzia church.
Castelo
de São
Jorge
ÃO
PIC
O
EL
ST
CA
R.
. DE ARAÚJO
2. Museu de Artes Decorativas

Set up as a museum by the banker Ricardo do
A N
Espírito Santo Silva, the 17th-century Palácio

RU
Azurara houses fine 17th- and 18th-century

Portuguese furniture and decorative arts.
Key
Suggested route
1. Miradouro de
Santa Luzia
The view from this
0 metres 25
bougainvillea-clad terrace
0 yards 25 spans the tiled roofs of the
Alfama toward the Tagus.
This is a pleasant place to
rest after a walk around
the area’s steep streets.
A L FA M A  73
Beco das Cruzes, like most of the

alleyways (becos) that snake their way
through the Alfama, is a steep cobbled BAIXA
street. Locals often hang washing AND
AVENIDA
between the tightly packed houses. ALFAMA
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder map 8
Rua de São Pedro is the scene

of a lively early-morning fish
market where the varinas
sell the catch of the day.
Peixe espada (scabbard fish)
is one of the fish sold here.
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro

is named after the 17th-century
S
U ZE fountain (chafariz) that was originally
BE
CR placed within (dentro) rather than

CO
S
DA outside the 14th-century walls.
BE
CO
D
EL
O
U
M
IG
EX
BE M
CO
IA
O
DA
S
SÃ
CA
E
RD
D
O
A
SA
RU
LARGO DO
C H A FA R I Z
DE DENTRO
RO
PED
B
EC
The church of Nossa

O
Senhora dos Remédios

DO P
SÃ
was rebuilt after the 1755

DE
O
earthquake (see pp66–7).

C
A
IN
The pinnacled Manueline

RU
H
portal is all that remains

O
of the original building.
São Miguel was rebuilt

after it was damaged in the
1755 earthquake. It retains
a few earlier features, Popular restaurants hidden
including a fine ceiling of in the labyrinth of alleyways
Brazilian jacaranda wood. spill out onto open-air patios.
74  LISBON
3 São Vicente
de Fora
Largo de São Vicente. Map 8 E3.
Tel 218 810 500. @ 712, 734. v 28.
Church: Open 9am–1pm, 2:30–5pm
Tue–Sat. Monastery: (incl cloisters).
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 5
& to museum.
St Vincent was proclaimed

Lisbon’s patron saint in 1173,
when his relics were transferred
from the Algarve (see p325) to a
church on this site outside (fora)
the city walls. Designed by
Italian architect Filippo Terzi,
and completed in 1627, the
Tile panel showing pre-earthquake Praça do Comércio, Santa Luzia sober, off-white façade is in
Italian Renaissance style, with
1 Miradouro de to house his fine collection of statues of saints Vincent,
furniture, textiles, silver and cera- Augustine and Sebastian over
Santa Luzia mics. Among the 17th- and the entrance. Inside, one is
Rua do Limoeiro. Map 8 D4. v 28. 18th-century antiques drawn immediately to
displayed in this hand- Machado de Castro’s
The terrace by the church of some mansion are Baroque canopy over
Santa Luzia provides a sweeping many fine pieces in the altar, flanked by
view over the Alfama and the exotic woods, including life-size wooden statues.
River Tagus. Distinctive land- an 18th-century rose- The adjoining former
marks, from left to right, are wood backgammon Augustinian monastery,
the cupola of Santa Engrácia, the and chess table. Also with its 16th-century
church of Santo Estêvão and of note are the collec- cistern and vestiges
the two startling white towers tions of 18th-century of the former cloister,
of São Miguel. While tourists silver and Chinese 18th-century china is famous for its
admire the views, old men play porcelain, and the cutlery case, Museu de 18th-century azulejos.
cards under the bougainvillea- Arraiolos carpets (see Artes Decorativas Among the panels in
clad pergola. The south wall of p307). The spacious the entrance hall off
Santa Luzia has two modern rooms still retain some original the first cloister there are lively,
tiled panels, one of Praça do ceilings and azulejo panels. though historically inaccurate,
Comércio before it was flat- In the adjoining building are tile scenes of Afonso Henriques
tened by the earthquake, the workshops where artisans pre- attacking Lisbon and Santarém.
other showing the Christians serve the techniques of cabinet- Around the cloisters the tiled
attacking the Castelo de São making, bookbinding, gilding and rural scenes, surrounded by
Jorge (see pp80–81) in 1147. other traditional crafts. Temporary floral designs and cherubs,
exhibitions, lectures and concerts illustrate the fables of La
are also held in the palace. Fontaine. A passageway leads
2 Museu de
to the old refectory,
Artes Decorativas transformed into the
Portuguesas Bragança Pantheon in
1885. Except for Maria I
Largo Portas do Sol 2. Map 8 D3. and Pedro IV, every king
Tel 218 814 600. @ 737. v 12, 28.
and queen is here, from
Open 10am–5pm Wed–Mon.
8 11am & 3pm Mon & Wed, 3pm
João IV, who died in
Thu. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
1656, to Manuel II, last
& ∑ fress.pt king of Portugal. A stone
mourner kneels at the
Also known as the Ricardo do tomb of Carlos I and
Espírito Santo Silva Foundation, his son Luís Felipe,
the museum was set up in 1953 assassinated in Praça
to preserve the traditions and do Comércio in 1908.
increase public awareness of the The small Museu do
Portuguese decorative arts. Patriarcado displays
The foundation was named after sacred art, some from
a banker who bought the 17th- Stone figure of a woman praying by the tomb as far back as the
century Palácio Azurara in 1947 of Carlos I in São Vicente de Fora 16th century.
A L FA M A  75
4 Feira da Ladra on the right Henry the Navigator portrays the influence that
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 E2. Open
(see p53). The fadista Amália this ever-popular and intensely
9am–6pm Tue & Sat. @ 712. v 28. Rodrigues (see p69) is also buried heartfelt genre of music has
here. A lift up to the dome offers had on the city over the past
The stalls of the so-called 360-degree views of the city. two centuries. A permanent
“Thieves’ Market” have occupied display traces the genre’s history
this site for over a century. As the from its origins in the early
fame of this market has grown, 6 Museu Militar 19th century to the present
bargains are increasingly hard to day, from Maria Severa, the first
Largo do Museu de Artilharia. Map 8 F3.
find amongst the mass of bric-a- fado diva, to more contemporary
Tel 218 842 567. @ 712, 728, 757. v
brac, but a few of the vendors 28. q Santa Apolónia. Open 10am– singers like Amália Rodrigues
have interesting wrought-iron 5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–12:30pm & 1:30– and Mariza. Regular temporary
work, prints and tiles, as well as 5pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 exhibitions take place through-
second-hand clothes. Evidence May, 25 Dec. & (free Sun am). out the year on a range of
of Portugal’s colonial past is ∑ exercito.pt musical themes, along with the
reflected in the stalls selling occasional live fado concert.
African statuary, masks and Located on the site of a 16th-
jewellery. Fish, vegetables and century cannon foundry and arms
herbs are sold in the central depot, this museum contains an 8 Casa dos Bicos
wrought-iron marketplace. extensive display of arms, uni-
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. Map 8 D4.
forms and historical documents.
Tel 218 802 040. @ 728, 746, 759.
Visits begin in the Vasco da Gama v 18, 25. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat.
Room with a collection of &
cannons and modern murals
depicting the discovery of the This conspicuous house, faced
sea route to India. The Salas da with diamond-shaped stones
Grande Guerra display exhibits (bicos), was built in 1523 for Brás
related to World War I. Other de Albuquerque, illegitimate son
rooms focus on the evolution of of Afonso, Viceroy of India and
weapons, from flints to spears to conqueror of Goa and Malacca.
rifles. The large courtyard, flanked The façade is an adaptation of a
by cannons, tells the story of style popular in Europe during the
Portugal in tiled panels, from the 16th century. The two top storeys,
The multicoloured marble interior beneath Christian Reconquest to World ruined in the earthquake of 1755,
Santa Engrácia’s dome War I. The Portuguese artillery were restored in the 1980s,
section displays the wagon recreating the original from old
5 Santa Engrácia used to transport the triumphal views of Lisbon in tile panels and
arch to Rua Augusta (see p88). engravings. In the interim the
Campo de Santa Clara. Map 8 F2.
building was used for salting fish
Tel 218 854 820. v 28.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means
(Apr–Sep: to 6pm). Closed 1 Jan, 7 Museu do Fado street of the cod fishermen).
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 Nowadays it houses the head-
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1. Map
quarters of the José Saramago
8 E4. Tel 218 823 470. @ 728, 735,
One of Lisbon’s most striking 745, 759, 794. Open 10am–6pm Tue– Foundation. In addition to a
landmarks, the soaring dome of Sun. & ∑ museudofado.pt permanent exhibition dedicated
Santa Engrácia punctuates the to this Nobel Prize-winning
skyline in the east of the city. Alfama is considered the true author, there are often concerts
The original church collapsed in home of fado and this museum and debates taking place here.
a storm in 1681. The first stone
of the Baroque monument, laid
in 1682, marked the beginning
of a 284-year saga which led to
the invention of a saying that a
Santa Engrácia job was never
done. The church was not
completed until 1966.
The interior is paved with
coloured marble and crowned by
a giant cupola. As the National
Pantheon, it houses cenotaphs
of Portuguese heroes, such as
Vasco da Gama (see p110) and
Afonso de Albuquerque, Viceroy
of India (1502–15) on the left, and The curiously faceted Casa dos Bicos, and surrounding buildings
76  LISBON
you see today

blends a variety of
architectural styles.
The façade, with
twin castellated
bell towers and a
splendid rose win
dow, retains its solid
Romanesque aspect.
The gloomy interior,
for the most part, is
simple and austere,
and hardly any Detail of the Baroque nativity scene by
thing remains of Joaquim Machado de Castro
the embellishment
lavished upon it by dogs sitting faithfully at their
King João V in the feet. In the adjacent chancel are
first half of the 18th the tombs of Afonso IV and his
century. Beyond the wife Dona Beatriz.
renovated Roman The Gothic cloister, reached
The façade of the Sé, the city’s cathedral esque nave the via the third chapel in the
ambulatory has nine ambulatory, has elegant double
9 Sé Gothic chapels. The Capela de arches with some finely carved
Santo Ildefonso contains the capitals. One of the chapels is
Largo da Sé. Map 8 D4. Tel 218 866 14thcentury sarcophagi of Lopo still fitted with its 13thcentury
752. @ 737. v 12, 28. Sé: Open Fernandes Pacheco, companion wroughtiron gate. Archaeo
9am–7pm daily. Church, Cloister &
in arms to King Afonso IV, and logical excavations in the
Treasury: 10am–6.30pm Mon–Sat. 5
& to Gothic cloister and treasury.
his wife, Maria Vilalobos. The cloister have unearthed various
bearded figure of the nobleman, Roman and other remains.
In 1150, three years after Afonso sword in hand, and his wife, To the left of the cathedral
Henriques recaptured Lisbon clutching a prayer book, are entrance the Franciscan chapel
from the Moors, he built a carved onto the tombs with their contains the font where the
cathedral for the first bishop of saint was baptized in
Lisbon, the English crusader 1195 and is decorated
Gilbert of Hastings, on the site with a charming tiled
of the old mosque. Sé is short scene of St Antony
for Sedes Episcopalis, the seat preaching to the
(or see) of a bishop. Devastated fishes. The adjacent
by three earth tremors in the chapel contains a
14th century, as well as the earth Baroque nativity
quake of 1755, and renovated Carved tomb of the 14th-century nobleman Lopo scene made of cork,
over the centuries, the cathedral Fernandes Pacheco in chapel in the ambulatory wood and terracotta
by the celebrated
sculptor Joaquim Machado de
Santo António (c.1195–1231) Castro (1766).
The bestloved saint of the Lisboetas is St Antony The treasury is at the top
of Padua. Although born and brought up in of the staircase on the right.
Lisbon, he spent the last months of his life in It houses silver, ecclesiastical
Padua, Italy. St Antony joined the Franciscan robes, statuary, illustrated
Order in 1220, impressed by some crusading manuscripts and a few relics
friars he had met at Coimbra, where he was associated with St Vincent,
studying. The friar was a learned and pas which were transferred to
sionate preacher, renowned for his devotion Lisbon from Cabo de São
to the poor and his ability to convert heretics.
Vicente in 1173 (see p325).
Many statues and paintings of St Antony depict
Legend has it that two sacred
him carrying the Infant Jesus on a book, while
others show him preaching to the fishes, as ravens kept a permanent vigil
St Francis preached to the birds. over the boat that transported
In 1934 Pope Pius XI declared St Antony a the relics. The ravens and the
patron saint of Portugal. The year 1995 saw boat became a symbol of
the 800th anniversary of his birth – a cause the city of Lisbon, still very
for major celebrations throughout the city. much in use today. It is also
Lisbon celebrates St Antony on 13 June, the said that the descendants of
day of the saint’s death (see p35). the two ravens used to live
in the cloisters of the cathedral.
A L FA M A  77
0 Santo António
à Sé
Largo Santo António à Sé 24. Map 7
C4. Tel 218 869 145. @ 737. v 12,
28. Open 8am–7pm daily (to 8pm
Sat & Sun). 5 Museu Antoniano:
Tel 218 860 447. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. &
The popular little church of

Santo António allegedly
stands on the site of the house
in which St Antony was born.
The crypt, reached via the
tiled sacristy on the left of the
church, is all that remains of
the original church destroyed
by the earthquake of 1755.
Work began on the new church
in 1757 headed by Mateus
Vicente, architect of the Basílica
da Estrela (see p97) and was
partially funded by donations
collected by local children
with the cry “a small coin for
St Antony”. Even today the The Miradouro and Igreja da Graça seen from the Castelo de São Jorge
floor of the tiny chapel in the
crypt is strewn with coins and leave flowers for St Antony w Miradouro da
and the walls are scrawled who is believed to bring good
with devotional messages luck to new marriages.
Graça
from worshippers. Next door the small Museu Map 8 D2. @ 737. v 12, 28.
The church’s façade blends Antoniano houses artifacts,
the undulating curves of the relating to St Antony, as well The working-class quarter of
Baroque style with Neo-Classical as gold and silverware which Graça developed at the end
Ionic columns on either side of used to decorate the church. of the 19th century. Today, it is
the main portal. Inside, on the The most charming exhibit is a visited chiefly for the views
way down to the crypt, a modern 17th-century tiled panel of St from its miradouro (belvedere).
azulejo panel commemorates Antony preaching to the fishes. The panorama of rooftops and
the visit of Pope John Paul II in skyscrapers is less spectacular
1982. In 1995 the church was than the view from the castle,
given a face-lift for the saint’s q Castelo de but it is a popular spot, particu-
eighth centenary. It is traditional larly in the early evenings when
for young couples to visit the São Jorge couples sit at café tables under
church on their wedding day See pp80–81. the pines. Behind the miradouro
stands an Augustinian
monastery, founded in 1271
and rebuilt after the earthquake.
Once a flourishing complex,
the huge building is now used
as barracks but the church,
the Igreja da Graça, can still
be visited. Inside, in the right
transept, is the Senhor dos
Passos, a representation of
Christ carrying the cross on
the way to Calvary. This figure,
clad in brilliant purple clothes,
is carried on a procession
through Graça on the second
Sunday in Lent. The azulejos on
the altar front, dating from the
17th century, imitate the
brocaded textiles usually
Tiled panel recording Pope John Paul II’s visit to Santo António à Sé draped over the altar.
80  LISBON
q Castelo de São Jorge Torre de Ulisses has a camera obscura

Following the recapture of Lisbon from the Moors that projects views of Lisbon onto the
inside walls of the tower.
in 1147, King Afonso Henriques transformed
their hilltop citadel into the residence of the
Portuguese kings. In 1511 Manuel I built
a more lavish palace in what is now the
Praça do Comércio and the castle was used as
a theatre, prison and arms depot. After the 1755
earthquake the ramparts remained in ruins until
1938 when Salazar (see pp60–61) began a complete
renovation, rebuilding the “medieval” walls and
adding gardens and wildfowl. The castle may not
be authentic but the gardens and the narrow streets
of the Santa Cruz district within the walls make a
pleasant stroll and the views are the finest in Lisbon.
S
HA
OZIN
. Battlements SC
Visitors can climb the towers and A
AD
walk along the reconstructed RU
ramparts of the castle walls.
Casa do Leão Restaurant

Museu do Castelo
Part of the former royal residence,
has archaeological
this restaurant can be booked for
artifacts illustrating
meals and parties (see p398).
lifestyle and culture
through the ages.
. Observation Terrace
This large shaded square
affords spectacular views over
Lisbon and the Tagus. Local
men play backgammon
and cards under the trees.
Key
Suggested route
The crenellated walls of the Castelo de São Jorge

A L FA M A  81
Porta de Martim Moniz is named after a

This important VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
knight who gave his life to keep the gate
open for Afonso Henriques’s troops in archaeological site,
the location of the Practical Information
1147. His bust is in a niche by the gate.
city’s first known settle- Porta de S Jorge, Rua do Chão da
ment (7th century BC), Feira (entrance on Rua de Santa
reveals much about Cruz do Castelo). Map 8 D3.
Lisbon’s history. Tel 218 800 620. ∑ castelode
saojorge.pt Open 9am–9pm daily
Porta de (Nov–Feb: to 6pm), (last adm: 30
Santo André mins before closing. & 0 - =
opens out Camera Obscura: Open 10am–5pm
into Largo daily. 8 every 20 mins, with a
Rodrigues maximum of 20 people. Museu
de Freitas. do Castelo: Open 9am–9pm daily
(Nov–Feb: to 6pm). Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 24 & 25 Dec. 9
Transport
@ 737. v 28.
Inside the 12th-century church

of Santa Cruz do Castelo is a
17th-century statue of St George.
Santa Cruz square is a pleasant
LARGO open space surrounded by the
T A C RUZ DE SANTA area’s elegantly restored buildings.
N
DE SA CRUZ DO CASTELO
ORES
AS FL
RUA D
BEC
O
EL
O D
ST
CA
O
O R
D
Z
U
CR
ECO
A
NT
SA
LHIMENTO
E
D
A
RU
BE
CO
DO
FOR
NO D
Santa Cruz
The narrow, cobbled streets of the
O
CASTELO
small quarter of Santa Cruz are

tightly packed within the walls
of the old castle.
RUA DO RECOLHIMENTO
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
IRA
O DA FE Rua de Santa Cruz
O CHÃ
RUA D do Castelo
Peeling façades,
potted plants and
Porta de São Jorge washing strung
between windowsills
characterize the pretty
streets south of the
Castelo de São Jorge.
LISBON  83
BAIXA AND AVENIDA

From the ruins of Lisbon, devastated by the the commercial hub of the capital, housing
earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7), the Marquês banks, offices and shops. At its centre, Rossio
de Pombal created an entirely new centre. is a popular meeting point with cafés, theatres
Using a grid layout of streets, he linked the and restaurants. The geometric layout of
stately, arcaded Praça do Comércio beside the area has been retained, but most of the
the Tagus with the busy central square of buildings constructed since the mid-18th
Rossio. The streets were flanked by uniform, century have not adhered to Pombaline
Neo-Classical buildings and named according formality. The streets are crowded by day,
to the shopkeepers and craftsmen who particularly the lively Rua Augusta, but after
traded there. The Baixa (lower town) is still dark the quarter is almost deserted.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Streets and Squares
4 Museu da Sociedade de Geografia 2 Avenida da Liberdade
Churches 3 Praça dos Restauradores
5 Rossio
9 Nossa Senhora da Conceição
6 Praça da Figueira
Velha
8 Rua Augusta
Parks and Gardens 0 Praça do Comércio
1 Jardim Botânico
Lifts 0 metres 250
7 Elevador de Santa Justa
R.
0 yards 250
LU
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RU A D
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Avenida
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See also Street Finder RUA NR
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pp132–45 O ARS DO
R. D TE
AN
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AV E N I
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Estação Fluvial
Terreiro do Paço
Street view of the Elevador de Santa Justa For keys to symbols see back flap
84  lisbon
Street-by-Street: Restauradores
This is the busiest part of the city, especially the central
squares of Rossio and Praça da Figueira. Totally rebuilt after
the earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7), the area was
one of Europe’s first examples of town planning.
Today, the large neo-Classical buildings on the
wide streets and squares house business
offices. The atmosphere and surroundings
are best absorbed from one of the busy
pavement cafés. Rua das Portas de santo
Antão, a pedestrianized street where
restaurants display tanks of live lobsters,
is more relaxing for a stroll. T ÃO
E SANTO AN
. D
T
S IM
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D OR RD
ÇA D JA
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PR AU RU
T
R ES
Palácio Foz, once a magnificent

18th-century palace built by the
Italian architect Francesco Fabri,
now houses a tourist office.
The Elevador da Glória is a bright

yellow funicular that rattles up the
hill to the Bairro Alto as far as
the Miradouro de São Pedro
de Alcântara (see p96).
Restauradores
Key
Suggested route
3 Praça dos
Restauradores
This large tree-lined square,
named after the men who Rossio station,
fought during the 1640 War designed by José
of Restoration, is dominated Luìs Monteiro, is
by a tall obelisk with an an eye-catching
ornate pedestal. There are late 19th-century
café terraces on the square’s Neo-Manueline
patterned pavements. building with two
Moorish-style
horseshoe arches.
Baixa and avenida  85
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia BAixA And
AVenidA
This collection
includes unusual AlfAmA
items from BAirro Alto
And estrelA
Portugal’s
former colonies.
te j o
Locator Map
see lisbon street finder map 7
R
U
A
Rua das Portas de Santo

D
Antão recalls a 15th-century

A
S
gate that once stood here.

P
The lively street is full of

O
R
excellent seafood restaurants.

TA
R
S
O The Casa do Alentejo, restored in

ED
D
1919, has a tranquil interior with a

EG
E
R Neo-Moorish patio and fountain.

SA
O
D Teatro Nacional Dona It is a restaurant (see p398) and a
N
Maria II (see p87) meeting place for local Alentejans.

TO
A
N
TÃ
Church of 6 Praça da Figueira

O
São Domingos Rossio Designed as the city’s

main marketplace in
Pombal’s reconstruction
GO
of the area, this square
LAR DOR is now presided over
EGE GO
DO
R LAR SÃO by a 20th-century
DE GO
S
statue of João I.
MIN
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ÇA A
PRA ÂO D
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CÂ M
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ROS R O
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ÇA D
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PRA EIRA
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A 1
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Café
Pastelaria
Nicola
Rossio Suiça
Tabacaria
Monaco 5 . Rossio
0 metres
This attractively paved square is a social
50
focal point with cafés, pastelarias and
0 yards 50 the National Theatre on the north side.
86  LISBON
enjoyment of the
park was restricted
to Lisbon’s high
society and walls
and gates ensured
the exclusion of the
lower classes. In 1821,
when the Liberals
came to power, the
Bridge and pond shaded by trees in the barriers were pulled
Jardim Botânico down and the
Avenida and square
1 Jardim Botânico became open to all.
The boulevard you
Rua da Escola Politécnica 58. Map 4
see today was built in
F1. Tel 213 921 800. @ 758. q Rato.
Gardens: Open Apr–Sep: 9am–8pm
1879–82 in the style
daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). Closed of the Champs-
1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ jb.ul.pt Elysées in Paris.
Museu Nacional de História Natural The wide tree-lined
e da Ciência: Tel 213 921 808. Open avenue became a
10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat focus for pageants,
& Sun. & (free until 2pm Sun). festivities and
∑ museus.ulisboa.pt demonstrations.
A war memorial
The complex, owned by the stands as a tribute
University of Lisbon, comprises to those who died
2 museums and 4 hectares in World War I. The 19th-century monument in honour of the Restoration in
(10 acres) of gardens. The avenue retains a Praça dos Restauradores
botanical gardens have a certain elegance with
distinct air of neglect. However, fountains and café tables 3 Praça dos
it is worth paying the entrance shaded by trees, but it no longer
fee to wander among the exotic makes for a peaceful stroll. Restauradores
trees and dense paths of the The once majestic thoroughfare, Map 7 A2. @ 709, 711, 736 & many
gardens as they descend from 90 m (295 ft) wide and decor- other routes. q Restauradores.
the main entrance towards ated with abstract pavement
Rua da Alegria. A magnificent patterns, is divided by seven The square, distinguished by
avenue of lofty palms connects lanes of traffic linking Praça dos its soaring obelisk, erected in
the two levels. Restauradores and Praça 1886, commemorates the
The Museu Nacional de Marquês de Pombal to the country’s liberation from
História Natural e da Ciência north. Some original mansions the Spanish yoke in 1640 (see
(Natural History and Science are preserved, including the pp54–5). The bronze figures
Museum) houses a number Neo-Classical Tivoli cinema at on the pedestal depict Victory,
of permanent exhibitions. No. 188, with an original holding a palm and a crown,
Some of them, like Plants in 1920s kiosk outside, and Casa and Freedom. The names and
the Age of Dinosaurs and Lambertini with its colourful dates inscribed on the obelisk
Mathematical Games Through mosaic decoration at No. 166. are those of the battles of the
the Ages, are very popular with However, many Art Nouveau War of Restoration.
school children. façades have unfortunately On the west side, the Palácio
given way to newer ones Foz houses a tourist office and
occupied by offices, hotels or work premises. It was built by
2 Avenida da shopping complexes. Francesco Savario Fabri in
Liberdade 1755–77 for the
Marquês de Castelo-
Map 7 A2. @ 709, 711, 736 & many
other routes. q Restauradores,
Melhor, and was
Avenida. renamed after the
Marquês de Foz,
Following the earthquake of who lived here in the
1755 (see pp66–7), the Marquês 19th century. The smart
de Pombal created the Passeio Avenida Palace Hotel on
Público (public promenade) in the southwest side of the
the area now occupied by the square, was designed by
lower part of Avenida da José Lúis Monteiro (1849–
Liberdade and Praça dos Detail from the memorial to the dead of 1942), who also built Rossio
Restauradores. Despite its name, World War I in Avenida da Liberdade railway station (see p87).
BAIXA AND AVENIDA  87
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 100.
Map 7 A2. Tel 213 425 401.
@ 709, 711, 736. q Restauradores.
Open 3pm 1st Tue of month. 8
compulsory. - 7
Located in the Geographical

Society building, the museum
houses an idiosyncratic
ethno-graphical collection
brought back from Portugal’s
former colonies. On display
are circumcision masks from
Guinea Bissau, musical
instruments and snake spears. Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II in Rossio illuminated by night
From Angola there are neck
rests to sustain coiffures and former glory, and the sober Pedro’s daughter. The Neo-
the original padrão – the stone Pombaline buildings, disfigured Classical structure was built
pillar erected by the Portuguese on the upper level by the in the 1840s by the Italian archi-
in 1482 to mark their sovereignty remains of neon signs, are tect Fortunato Lodi. The interior
over the colony. Most of the occupied at street level by was destroyed by fire in 1964
exhibits are arranged along souvenir shops, jewellers and and reconstructed in the 1970s.
the splendid Sala Portugal. cafés. Centre stage is a statue On top of the pediment is Gil
of Dom Pedro IV, the first Vicente (1465–1536), the
emperor of independent Brazil founder of Portuguese theatre.
5 Rossio (see p58). At the foot of the Café Nicola on the west side
Map 7 B3. @ 709, 711, 736 & many statue, the four female figures of the square was a favourite
other routes. q Rossio. are allegories of Justice, Wisdom, meeting place among writers,
Strength and Moderation. including the poet Manuel
Formally called Praça de Dom In the mid-19th century the du Bocage (1765–1805), who
Pedro IV, this large square has square was paved with wave- was notorious for his satires.
been Lisbon’s nerve centre for patterned mosaics which gave Pastelaria Suiça, on the opposite
six centuries. During its history it the nickname of “Rolling side, is a café popular with
it has been the stage of bull- Motion Square”. The hand-cut tourists for its sunlit terrace.
fights, festivals, military parades grey and white stone cubes
and gruesome autos da fé (see were the first such designs to
p55). However, today there is decorate the city’s pavements. 6 Praça da Figueira
little more than an occasional On the north side of Rossio Map 7 B3. @ 714, 759, 760 & many
political rally. The square has is the Teatro Nacional Dona other routes. v 15. q Rossio.
mostly been restored to its Maria II, named after Dom
Before the 1755 earthquake
(see pp66–7) the square next
to Rossio was the site of the
Hospital de Todos-os-Santos
(All Saints). In Pombal’s design
for the Baixa, the square took
on the role of the city’s central
marketplace. In 1885 a covered
market was introduced, but this
was pulled down in the 1950s.
Today, the four-storey buildings
are given over to hotels, shops
and cafés and the square is no
longer a marketplace. Perhaps
its most eye-catching feature
is the multitude of pigeons
that perch on the pedestal
supporting Leopoldo de
Almeida’s bronze equestrian
Bronze statue of King Joao I in Praça da Figueira statue of João I, erected in 1971.
88  LISBON
There are spectacular views 8 Rua Augusta

of the Baixa from the platform.
Map 7 B3. q Rossio. @ 714, 736,
759, 760 & many other routes. MUDE:
Rua Augusta 24. Tel 218 886 117.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
A lively pedestrianized street

decorated with mosaic
pavements and lined with
boutiques and cafés, Rua
A walkway Augusta is the main tourist
links the lift thoroughfare and the smartest
with Largo in the Baixa. Street performers
do Carmo. The two cars
that travel up provide entertainment, while
and down vendors sell lottery tickets, street
can hold 25 art, books and souvenirs. The
people each. triumphal Arco da Rua Augusta,
built to commemorate the city’s
recovery from the earthquake
(see pp66–7), was completed
Filigree only in 1873. There are great
motifs views from the top of the arch,
Rua do decorate which is accessed by elevator.
Carmo the wrought-
iron shaft. A former bank on Rua Augusta
now houses MUDE, a dynamic
design and fashion museum.
The other main thoroughfares
of the Baixa are Rua da Prata
(silversmiths’ street) and Rua do
Steps down Ouro or Rua Aurea (goldsmiths’
to Rua de street). Cutting across these
Santa Justa main streets are smaller
streets that give glimpses
up to the Bairro Alto to
7 Elevador de architect Raoul Mesnier du the west and the Castelo de São
Ponsard, an apprentice of Jorge (see pp80–81) to the east.
Santa Justa Alexandre Gustave Eiffel. Made Many of the streets retain shops
Rua de Santa Justa & Largo do Carmo. of iron and embellished with that gave them their name: there
Map 7 B3. Tel 213 613 000. Open filigree, it is one of the more are jewellers in Rua da Prata
Jun–Sep: 7am–11pm daily; Oct–May: eccentric features of the Baixa. and Rua do Ouro, shoemakers in
7am–10pm daily. & Tickets can be purchased at Rua dos Sapateiros and banks
the foot of the lift. in Rua do Comércio.
Also known as the Elevador Passengers can travel up and The most incongruous sight
do Carmo, this Neo-Gothic lift down inside the tower in one in the Baixa is a small section
was built at the turn of the of two smart wood-panelled of the Roman baths within the
20th century by the French cabins with brass fittings; they Millennium BCP bank in Rua dos
can also brave the walkway Correeiros. The ruins and mosaics
linking the lift to the Largo do can be seen from the window
Carmo in the Bairro Alto, 32 m at the back of the bank; if you
(105 ft) above. wish to visit the “museum”, call
The very top of the tower, ahead on 211 131 681.
reached via a tight spiral stair-
way, is given over to a viewing
gallery. This high vantage point
commands splendid views of
the whole of downtown Lisbon,
including Rossio, the grid pattern
of the Baixa, the castle on the
opposite hill, the river and
the nearby ruins of the Carmo
church. The fire that gutted
the Chiado district in 1988 (see
Views from the top platform of the Elevador p94) was extinguished very Shoppers and strollers in the pedestrianized
de Santa Justa close to the lift. Rua Augusta
BAIXA AND AVENIDA  89
9 Nossa Senhora de São Jorge to this more

da Conceição Velha convenient location by the river
in 1511. The first palace, along
Rua da Alfândega. Map 7 C4. Tel 218
with its library and 70,000 books,
870 202. @ 759, 794. v 15, 18.
was destroyed in the earthquake
Open 9am–6pm daily. 5 7
of 1755. In the rebuilding of the
The elaborate Manueline city, the square became the pièce
doorway of the church is the de résistance of Pombal’s Baixa
only feature that survived from design. The new palace occupied
the original 16thcentury Nossa spacious arcaded buildings that
Senhora da Misericórdia, which extended around three sides of
stood here until the 1755 earth the square. After the revolution
quake. The portal is decorated of 1910 (see pp58–9) these were
with a profusion of Manueline converted into government
detail including angels, beasts, administrative offices and painted
flowers, armillary spheres and Republican pink. However, they
the cross of the Order of have since been
Christ (see p28). In the repainted royal yellow. Shaded arcades along the north side of
tympanum, the Virgin The south side, Praça do Comércio
Mary spreads her graced by two square
protective mantle over towers, looks across the Arco da Rua Augusta, the
various contemporary Tagus. This has always impressive triumphal arch on
figures. These include been the finest gate the north side of the square,
Pope Leo X, Manuel I way to Lisbon, where leads into Rua Augusta and is the
(see pp50–51) and his royalty and ambass gateway to the Baixa. An elevator
sister, Queen Leonor, adors would alight and ride to the top affords unparalleled
widow of João II. It was take the marble steps views of the Tagus river basin.
Leonor who founded up from the river. In the northwest of the square is
the original Misericórdia You can still the Lisboa Welcome Center,
(almshouse) on the site experience the drama while in the opposite corner
of a former synagogue. tic approach by taking stands Lisbon’s oldest café, the
Unfortunately, a ferry across from Martinho da Arcada, formerly a
enjoyment of the portal Detail from portal of Cacilhas on the south haunt of the city’s literati. Also on
is hampered by the Conceição Velha ern bank. The busy the square is the Lisboa Story
stream of traffic hurtling Avenida Infante Dom Centre, an attraction that takes
along Rua da Alfândega and the Henrique, which runs along the visitors on an interactive journey
cars that park right in front of waterfront, is lined by trendy bars through the events that have
the church. The gloomy interior and restaurants. In the centre of shaped Lisbon, including the
has an unusual stucco ceiling; in the square is the equestrian stat earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7).
the second chapel on the right ue of King José I erected in 1775 On 1 February 1908, King
is a statue of Our Lady of by Machado de Castro, the lead Carlos and his son, Luís Felipe,
Restelo. This came from the ing Portuguese sculptor of the were assassinated as they were
Belém chapel where navigators 18th century. The bronze horse passing through the square (see
prayed before embarking on their earned the square its third name p59). In 1974 the square saw the
historic voyages east. of “Black Horse Square”, used by first uprising of the Armed Forces
English travellers and merchants. Movement which overthrew
Over the years, however, the horse the Caetano regime in a
0 Praça do has acquired a green patina. bloodless revolution (see p61).
Comércio
Map 7 B5. @ 711, 714, 732, 759, 794
& many other routes. v 15, 18, 25.
Arco da Rua Augusta: Rua Augusta
2–10. Open 9am–7pm (Jun–Sep: to
9pm) daily. & Lisboa Story Centre:
Praça do Comércio, Ala Nascente
78–81. Tel 211 941 099.
Open 10am–8pm daily. &
More commonly known by the

locals as Terreiro do Paço (Palace
Square), this huge open space
was the site of the royal palace
for 400 years. Manuel I moved
the royal residence from Castelo Arco da Rua Augusta and the statue of King José I in Praça do Comércio
LISBON  91
BAIRRO ALTO AND ESTRELA

Laid out in a grid pattern in the late 16th different in character to the heart of the Bairro
century, the hilltop Bairro Alto is one of the Alto is the elegant commercial district known
most picturesque districts of the city. First as the Chiado, where affluent Lisboetas do
settled by rich citizens who moved out of their shopping. To the northwest, the Estrela
the disreputable Alfama, by the 19th century quarter is centred on the huge domed
it had become a run-down area frequented basilica and popular gardens. The mid-18th
by prostitutes. Today, its small workshops century district of Lapa, to the southwest,
and family-run tascas (cheap restaurants) is home to foreign embassies and large,
exist alongside a thriving nightlife. Very smart residences.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings and Districts
5 Museu Nacional de Arte 3 Chiado
Contemporânea – 4 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
Museu do Chiado 7 Solar do Vinho do Porto
6 Museu da Marioneta 0 Palácio de São Bento
q Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga Gardens and Belvederes
pp98–101
8 Miradouro de São Pedro de
Churches See also Street Finder
Alcântara
pp132–45
1 São Roque 9 Praça do Príncipe Real
2 Igreja do Carmo w Jardim da Estrela
e Basílica da Estrela
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0 metres 250
0 yards 250
The ruins of the 14th-century Igreja do Carmo, destroyed by the 1755 earthquake For keys to symbols see back flap
92  LISBON
Street-by-Street: Bairro Alto and Chiado

The Bairro Alto (high quarter) is a fascinating area of cobbled
streets, adjacent to the Carmo and Chiado areas. Since the 1980s,
this has been Lisbon’s best-known nightlife zone, with countless
small bars and restaurants alongside the older casas de fado.
Much restoration work is continuing to take place around this
area, and many modern buildings stand side by side with old,
peeling houses and tiny grocery shops. In contrast, the Chiado
E
is an area of elegant shops and old-style cafés that extends R
T
down from Praça Luís de Camões towards Rua do Carmo O
N
and the Baixa. Major renovation work has taken place since O
D
a fire in 1988 (see p94) destroyed many of the buildings.
A
U
R
S
A
E
V
Á
Praça Luís G
S
de Camões A
D
A
U
R
Once a haunt of writers and

intellectuals, Chiado is now an
elegant shopping district. The
Brasileira café, on Largo do Chiado,
is adorned with gilded mirrors.
L
.
D
O
O
D M
A RI
C
RU EC
H
L
IA
A
D
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Largo do Chiado is flanked

by the churches of Loreto and
Nossa Senhora da Encarnação.
R
U
Baixa/Chiado
A
G
A
R
Rua Garrett
R
E
is the main shopping

T
T
street of the Chiado.

The statue of Eça de
Queirós (1845–1900), by Teixeira
Lopes, was erected in 1903. The
great novelist takes inspiration
from a scantily veiled muse.
Tavares, at No. 37
Rua da Misericórdia,
0 metres 50
first opened as a café
in 1784. Today it is an
0 yards 50 elegant restaurant
decorated at the
turn of the 20th
Key century with mirrors
Suggested route and elaborate
stucco designs.
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A  93
Elevador da
BAIXA AND
Glória The Museu de São Roque AVENIDA
has an interesting exhibition of

religious artifacts and explains BAIRRO ALTO
the history of the treasures in the AND ESTRELA
church of São Roque next door.
Tejo
Locator Map
IA
See Lisbon Street Finder map 7

D
R
Ó
IC
Cervejaria
1. São Roque
R
Trindade
E
Opulent mosaics
IS
is a popular
and semiprecious
M
beer hall and

stones adorn the
A
restaurant
D
Baroque Capela de
decorated with
E
A
São João inside the

D
U
azulejo panels.
A
R
16th-century church
D
of São Roque.
IN
R
Teatro da
T
Trindade
A
D
A
V
O
N
A
U
R
RU The tile decoration on

A the façade of this house,
D
A erected in 1864 on Largo
TR
IN Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro,
D
A
features allegorical figures
D of Science, Agriculture
E
Industry and Commerce.
TR
A
O
V
D
ES
SA
O
RG
D
O
O
RM
C
LA
A
R
M
CA
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AM
2 . Igreja do Carmo
CR
The graceful skeletal arches of this Carmelite

church, once the largest in Lisbon, stand as
SA
a reminder of the earthquake of 1755. The

DO
chancel and main body of the church

house an archaeological museum.
C.
The Elevador de Santa Justa

has a walkway that links the
The shops in Rua do Carmo have Baixa with Largo do Carmo.
been completely restored after the
devastating fire in 1988 (see p94).
94  LISBON
depositing tons of masonry on

to the people below. Founded
in the late 14th century by
Nuno Álvares Pereira, the
commander who became a
member of the Carmelite Order,
the church was at one time the
biggest in the city of Lisbon.
Nowadays the main body
of the church and the chancel,
whose roof withstood the
violent shock waves, house an
archaeological museum with
a small, heterogeneous collec-
Ruins of the 14th-century Igreja do Carmo seen from the Baixa tion of sarcophagi, statuary,
ceramics and mosaics.
1 São Roque ceiling, and the sacristy, with its Among the more ancient
coffered ceiling and painted finds from Europe are a remnant
Largo Trindade Coelho. Map 7 A3.
panels of the life of St Francis from a Visigothic pillar and a
Tel 213 235 380. @ 758 & Glória lift.
Xavier, the 16th-century Roman tomb carved with
Open Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm (from 2pm
Mon, to 8pm Thu); Oct–Mar: 9am– missionary. Treasures from the reliefs depicting the Muses.
6pm (from 2pm Mon). Closed 1 Jan, Chapel of St John, including the There are also finds from
Easter Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec. 5 Museu silver and lapis lazuli altar front, Mexico and South America,
de São Roque: Tel 213 235 380. are in the adjoining Museu de including ancient mummies.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm (from São Roque. Outside the ruins, in the Largo
2pm Mon, to 8pm Thu); Oct–Mar: do Carmo, stands the Chafariz do
10am–6pm (from 2pm Mon). Carmo, an 18th-century fount-
Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec. 2 Igreja do Carmo ain designed by Ângelo Belasco,
& (free until 2pm Sun). elaborately decorated with
Largo do Carmo. Map 7 B3.
Tel 213 460 473. v 28 & four dolphins.
São Roque’s plain Santa Justa lift. @ 758.
façade belies a Open Jun–Sep: 10am–
remarkably rich 7pm Mon–Sat; Oct–May: 3 Chiado
interior. The church 10am–6pm Mon–Sat. Map 7 A4. @ 1, 758. v 28.
was founded at Closed Sun. & q Baixa-Chiado.
the end of the 16th
century by the Jesuit The Gothic ruins of Hypotheses abound for the
Order, then at the peak this Carmelite church origin of the word Chiado, in
of its power. In 1742 on a slope overlooking use since 1567. One of the most
the Chapel of St John Tile detail, Chapel the Baixa, are evoc- interesting recalls the creak
the Baptist was of São Roque ative reminders of the (chiar) of the wheels of the carts
commissioned by the devastation left by as they negotiated the area’s
prodigal João V from the Italian the earthquake of 1755. The steep slopes. A second theory
architects Luigi Vanvitelli and church collapsed during mass, refers to the nickname given to
Nicola Salvi. Constructed in
Rome and embellished with
lapis lazuli, agate, alabaster,
The Chiado Fire
amethyst, precious marbles, On 25 August 1988 a disastrous
gold, silver and mosaics, the fire began in a store in Rua do
chapel was given the Pope’s Carmo, the street that links the
blessing in the church of Baixa with the Bairro Alto. Fire
Sant’Antonio dei Portoghesi engines were unable to enter
in Rome, dismantled and sent this pedestrianized street and
to Lisbon in three ships. the fire spread into Rua Garrett.
Among the many tiles in the Along with shops and offices,
church, the oldest and most many important 18th-century
interesting are those in the buildings were destroyed, the
third chapel on the right, dating worst damage being in Rua do
from the mid-16th century Carmo. The renovation project,
and dedicated to São Roque which is now complete, has
(St Roch), protector against preserved many original façades,
the plague. Other features and was headed by Portuguese Firemen attending the raging fire in
of the church are the scenes of architect Álvaro Siza Vieira. Rua do Carmo
the Apocalypse painted on the
4 Teatro Nacional works by Portuguese, often

de São Carlos showing the marked influence
from other European countries.
Rua Serpa Pinto 9. Map 7 A4. This is particularly noticeable
Tel 213 253 045. @ 758, 790. v 28.
in the 19th-century landscape
q Baixa-Chiado. Open Mon–Fri
8 1–7pm. ∑ tnsc.pt
painters who had contact with
artists from the French Barbizon
Replacing a former opera house School. The few international
which was ruined by the earthworks of art on display include
quake of 1755, the Teatro de São a collection of drawings by
Carlos was built in 1792–5 by Rodin (1840–1917) and some
José da Costa e Silva. Designed French sculpture from the late
on the lines of La Scala in Milan 19th century. There are also
and the San Carlo in Naples, temporary exhibitions which
the building has a beautifully are held for “very new artists,
Stalls and circle of the 18th-century Teatro proportioned façade and an preferably inspired by the
Nacional de São Carlos enchanting Rococo interior. permanent collection”.
Views of the exterior, however,
the 16th-century poet António are spoiled by the car park that
Ribeiro, “O Chiado”. Various occupies the square in front.
statues of literary figures can The opera season lasts from
be found in this area, known September to June, but concerts
for its intellectual associations. and ballets are also staged here
Fernando Pessoa, Portugal’s at other times of the year.
most famous 20th-century poet,
is seated at a table outside the
Café Brasileira, once a favourite 5 Museu Nacional
rendezvous of intellectuals.
The name Chiado is often used
de Arte
to mean just Rua Garrett, the Contemporânea –
main shopping street of the area, Museu do Chiado
named after the author and poet Rua Serpa Pinto 4–6. Map 7 A5.
João Almeida Garrett (1799– Tel 213 432 148. @ 758, 790. v 28. Grotesque puppet in Museu da Marioneta
1854). This elegant street, which q Baixa-Chiado. Open 10am–6pm
descends from Largo do Chiado Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 6 Museu da
towards the Baixa, is known for
its clothes shops, cafés and
25 Dec. & (free first Sun of month).
∑ museuarte contemporanea.pt
Marioneta
bookshops. Devastated by fire in Convento das Bernardas, Rua da
1988, the former elegance of this The National Museum of Esperança 146. Map 4 E3. Tel 213
quarter has now been restored. Contemporary Art occupies a 942 810. @ 713, 727, 760. v 25.
q Cais do Sodré. £ Santos.
On Largo do Chiado stand stylishly restored warehouse.
two Baroque churches: the The paintings and sculpture are
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec.
Italian church, Igreja do Loreto, arranged over three floors in 12 & (free 10am–1pm Sun).
on the north side and opposite, rooms. Each room has a different ∑ museudamarioneta.pt
Nossa Senhora da Encarnação, theme illustrating the develop-
whose exterior walls are partly ment from Romanticism to This small puppet museum,
decorated with azulejos. Modernism. The majority are housed in an elegantly
refurbished convent building,
includes characters dating from
17th- and 18th-century theatre
and opera, among them devils,
knights, jesters and satirical
figures. Many of the puppets
possess gruesome, contorted
features that are unlikely to
appeal to small children. The
museum explains the history of
the art form and runs videos
of puppet shows. Call ahead
to see if a live performance is
being held on the small stage.
There is also a space for
children’s entertainment
Art Nouveau façade of the popular Café Brasileira in the Chiado and pedagogical activities.
96  LISBON
8 Miradouro de daily. This area was once the

São Pedro de centre of the newspaper
industry, however the modern
Alcântara printing presses have now
Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara. Map 7 moved to more spacious
A2. @ 758. v 28, Elevador da Glória. premises west of the city.
The view is most attractive
The Belvedere (miradouro) at sunset and by night
commands a sweeping view when the castle is floodlit
The wide selection of port at the Solar do of eastern Lisbon, seen across and the terrace becomes a
Vinho do Porto the Baixa. A tiled map placed popular meeting point for
against the balustrade helps young Lisboetas.
you locate the land-
7 Solar do Vinho
marks in the city below.
do Porto The panorama extends
Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 45. from the battlements of
Map 4 F2. Tel 213 475 707. @ 758. the Castelo de São
v 28, Elevador da Glória. Open Jorge (see pp80–81),
11am–midnight Mon–Fri, 3pm– clearly seen surrounded
midnight Sat. Closed public hols. by trees on the hill to
the southeast, to the
The Portuguese word solar 18th-century church of Playing cards in Praça do Príncipe Real
means mansion or manor house Penha da França in the
and the Solar do Vinho do Porto northwest. The large monastery 9 Praça do
occupies the ground floor of an
18th-century mansion. The
complex of the Igreja da
Graça (see p77) is also visible
Príncipe Real
building was once owned by on the hill, and in the distance Map 4 F1. @ 758.
the German architect, Johann São Vicente de Fora (see p75) is
Friedrich Ludwig (Ludovice), recognizable by the Laid out in 1860 as a prime
who built the monastery at symmetrical towers that flank residential quarter, the square still
Mafra (see p158). The port its white façade. retains an air of affluence. Smartly
wine institute of Porto runs a Benches and ample shade painted mansions surround a
pleasant if dated bar here for from the trees make this terrace particularly pleasant park with
the promotion of port. Nearly a pleasant stop after the steep an open-air café, statuary and
200 types of port are listed in walk up Calçada da Glória from some splendid robinia, magnolia
the lengthy drinks menu, with the Baixa. Alternatively, the and Judas trees. The branches
every producer represented yellow funicular, Elevador da of a huge cedar tree have been
and including some rarities. Glória, will drop you off nearby. trained on a trellis, creating a
Unfortunately, many of the The memorial in the garden, wide shady spot for the locals
listed wines are often unavail- erected in 1904, depicts who play cards beneath it. On
able. All but the vintage ports Eduardo Coelho (1835–89), the large square, at No. 26, the
are sold by the glass, with prices founder of the newspaper eye-catching pink and white
ranging from €1 for the simplest Diário de Notícias, and below Neo-Moorish building with
ruby to €70 for a glass of 40-year- him a ragged paper boy run- domes and pinnacles is part
old tawny. ning with copies of the famous of Lisbon university.
View across the city to Castelo de São Jorge from Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
q Museu Nacional English novelist and playwright

de Arte Antiga who died in Lisbon at the age
of 47. The Journal of a Voyage to
See pp98–101. Lisbon, published posthumously
in 1775, recounts his last voyage
to Portugal made in a fruitless
w Jardim da Estrela attempt to recover his
Praça da Estrela. Map 4 D2. failing health.
@ 720, 738. v 25, 28.
Open 7am–midnight daily.
Laid out in the middle of the

19th century, opposite
the Basílica da Estrela,
the popular gardens are
Attractive wrought-iron music pavilion in a focal part of the Estrela
Jardim da Estrela quarter. Local families
congregate here at
0 Palácio de weekends to feed
the ducks and carp
São Bento in the lake, sit at the The tomb of the pious Maria I in the
Largo das Cortes. Map 4 E2. Tel 213 waterside café or wander Basílica da Estrela
919 000. @ 758. v 28. Open by among the flower beds, plants
appt. 8 last Sat of month, 3pm & and trees. The formal gardens e Basílica da Estrela
4pm, 213 919 625. ∑ parlamento.pt are planted with herbaceous
Praça da Estrela. Map 4 D2. Tel 213
borders and shrubs surrounding
960 915. @ 738. v 25, 28. Open
Also known as the Assembleia plane trees and elms. The 7:45am–8pm daily. Large groups
da República, this massive central feature of the park is a by appt only. 5
white Neo-Classical building green wrought-iron bandstand,
is the seat of the Portuguese decorated with elegant filigree, In the second half of the 18th
Parliament. It started life in the where musicians strike up in century Maria I (see p171), daugh-
late 1500s as the Benedictine the summer months. This was ter of José I, vowed she would
monastery of São Bento. After built in 1884 and originally build a church if she bore a son
the dissolution of the religious stood on the Passeio Público, and heir to the throne. Her wish
orders in 1834, the building before the creation of Avenida was granted and construction
became the seat of Parliament, da Liberdade (see p86). of the basilica began in 1779.
known as the Palácio das Cortes. The English Cemetery to Her son José, however, died
The interior is suitably grandiose the north of the gardens is best of smallpox two years before
with marble pillars and Neo- known as the burial place of the completion of the church
Classical statues. Henry Fielding (1707–54), the in 1790. The huge domed
basilica, set on a hill in the west
of the city, is one of Lisbon’s
great landmarks. A simpler
version of the basilica at Mafra
(see p158), the church was built
by architects from the Mafra
School in late Baroque and
Neo-Classical style. The façade
is flanked by twin bell towers
and decorated with an array
of statues of saints and
allegorical figures.
The spacious interior, where
light streams down from the
pierced dome, is clad in grey,
pink and yellow marble. The
elaborate Empire-style tomb of
Queen Maria I, who died in Brazil,
lies in the right transept. Locked
in a room nearby is Machado
de Castro’s extraordinary Nativity
scene, composed of over 500
cork and terracotta figures. (To
Neo-Classical façade and stairway of Palácio de São Bento see it, ask the sacristan.)
98  LISBON
qMuseu Nacional de
Arte Antiga
Portugal’s national art collection is housed in a 17th-century
palace that was built for the counts of Alvor. In 1770 it was
acquired by the Marquês de Pombal and remained in the
possession of his family for over a century. Inaugurated in
1884, the museum is known to locals as the Museu das Janelas
Verdes, referring to the former green windows of the palace.
In 1940 a modern annexe (including the main façade) was
added. This was built on the site of the St Albert Carmelite
monastery, which was partially demolished between 1910 . St Jerome
and 1920. The only surviving feature is the chapel, This masterly portrayal of old age
by Albrecht Dürer expresses one
now integrated into the museum.
of the central dilemmas of
Renaissance humanism: the
ephemeral nature of man (1521).
61
60
62
59 63
St Augustine by Piero
della Francesca
64
58
Stairs down to
65 -0m
57
56
66
55
68
The Temptations of
St Anthony by 54 67
69
Hieronymus Bosch
53
70
48
52
49
The Mystic Marriage of 51
St Catherine
Hans Holbein the Elder’s balanced 50
composition of the Mystic
Marriage of St Catherine (1519) is St Leonard
set among majestic Renaissance This sculpture of the saint was made
architecture, with saints in by Florentine sculptor Andrea della
detailed contemporary costumes Robbia (1435–1525), the nephew
sewing or reading. of Luca della Robbia.
Key to Floorplan
European painting
Gallery Guide
Portuguese painting and sculpture The ground floor (not shown)
houses research facilities and a
Portuguese and Chinese ceramics
gallery for temporary exhibitions.
Oriental and African art The first level contains 14th–19th-
Silver, gold and jewellery century European paintings,
European Decorative arts decorative arts and furniture.
Chapel of St Albert
Jewellery, Oriental and African
art, and Chinese and Portuguese
Portuguese Furniture
ceramics are on the second
Cribs floor. The top floor is dedicated
Non-exhibition space to local art and sculpture.
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA  99
3
4 Panels of St Vincent VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This polyptych, attributed to
2 Practical Information
Nuno Gonçalves, dates from
5 about 1470 (see p100). Rua das Janelas Verdes.
Map 4 D4.Tel 213 912 800.
1 ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
6 Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
1 May, 13 Jun, 25 Dec.
7 & (free first Sun of month).
8 (213 912 800). 7 - 0
8
Transport
13 @ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
9
12 10 Faïence Violin
Second
11 The museum’s ceramics collection
floor includes many decorative items
Third made in Portugal for the royal family.
27 floor This 19th-century objet d’art by
28 Wenceslau Cifka is decorated with the
26 royal coat of arms and portraits of
29 the Italian Baroque composers,
Scarlatti and Corelli.
25
30
21
24
23 . Namban
15 19 22
Screens
14 20 This detail
from one of the
museum’s
16 16th-century
18 Japanese screens
illustrates a
17 contemporary
43
trading scene and
the Portuguese
42 fashion at the time.
41
44
39
40
31
45
33
32 Entrance
34
35
First floor
The Chapel of
St Albert, dating
from the 1500s, has Ivory Salt Cellar
a Baroque interior Portuguese knights and
decorated with blue and dignitaries are carved on this
white azulejos. It is currently 16th-century ivory salt cellar
closed for renovation. from Benin, West Africa.
100  LISBON
Exploring the Collections of the Panels of St Vincent

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
The museum has the largest collection of paintings in
Portugal and is particularly strong on early religious works
by Portuguese artists. The majority of exhibits came from
convents and monasteries following the suppression of
religious orders in 1834. There are also extensive displays
of sculpture, silverware, porcelain and applied arts giving
an overview of Portuguese art from the Middle Ages to
the 19th century, complemented by many fine European
and Oriental pieces. The theme of the discoveries is ever-
present, illustrating Portugal’s links with Brazil, Africa,
India, China and Japan.
here, the finest pieces are St

European Art Augustine by the Renaissance
Paintings by European artists, painter Piero della Francesca
dating from the 14th to the (c.1420–92) and a graceful Cistercian monks Friar
19th century, are arranged early altar panel representing from Alcobaça
chronologically on the ground the Resurrection by Raphael (see pp184–5)
floor. Unlike the Portuguese (1483–1520). Fisherman
art, most of these works were
donated from private collec
tions, contributing to the great Portuguese Painting Painted around 1470–80
diversity of works on display. and Sculpture and believed to be by Nuno
The first rooms, dedicated to Many of the earliest works are Gonçalves, the altarpiece portrays
the 14th and 15th centuries, by the Portuguese primitive the Panels of St Vincent, patron
trace the transition from painters, such as Josefa de saint of Lisbon, surrounded
medieval Gothic taste to the Óbidos (see p55), who were by dignitaries, knights, monks,
aesthetic of the Renaissance. influenced by the realistic detail fishermen and beggars. Though
The painters best represented of Flemish artists. There had the identification of these char
in the European Art section are always been strong trading links acters isn’t historically factual,
16thcentury German and between Portugal and Flanders, the painting is an invaluable
Flemish artists. Notable works and in the 15th and 16th cent historical and social document.
here include St Jerome by uries several painters of Flemish Later works include a
Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528), origin, for example Frey Carlos 16thcentury portrait of the
Salomé by Lucas Cranach the of Évora, set up workshops young Dom Sebastião (see
Elder (1472–1553), Virgin and in Portugal. pp50–51) by Cristóvão de
Child by Hans Memling (c.1430– Also in this section is the São Morais and paintings by Neo
94) and The Temptations of St Vicente de Fora polyptych, the Classical artist Domingos
Anthony by the great Flemish main painting of 15thcentury António de Sequeira.
master of fantasy, Hieronymus Portuguese art and one that has The museum’s sculpture
Bosch (1450–1516). Of the become a symbol of national collection has many Gothic
small number of Italian works pride in the Age of Discovery. polychrome stone and wood
statues of Christ, the Virgin and
saints. There are also statues from
the 17th century and a nativity
scene in the Chapel of St Albert
painted by Barros Laborão
between 1796 and 1807.
Portuguese and
Chinese Ceramics
The extensive collection of
ceramics enables visitors to trace
the evolution of Chinese porcelain
and Portuguese faïence and to
see the influence of oriental
Central panel of The Temptations of St Antony by Hieronymus Bosch designs on Portuguese pieces,
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA  101
Queen Eleonor of Henry the Archbishop Moorish knight Jewish scholar

Aragon, the Queen Navigator of Lisbon, Jorge
mother (see p53) da Costa Beggar
Queen Isabel Infante João Infante Fernão, Knight Duke of City official
(King João II) the king’s brother Bragança holding a fragment
King Afonso V St Vincent of St Vincent’s skull
and vice versa. From the 16th many Medieval and Renaissance
century Portuguese ceramics Silver, Gold and Jewellery pieces, as well as Baroque and
show a marked influence of The collection of ecclesiastical Neo-Classical items from the
Ming, and conversely the treasures includes King Sancho I’s reigns of King João V, King
Chinese pieces bear Portuguese gold cross (1214) and the José and Queen Maria I. Of
motifs such as coats of arms. By Belém monstrance (1506) the foreign furniture, French
the mid-18th century individual (see p28). Also on display is pieces from the 18th century
potters had begun the 16th-century are prominent.
to develop an Madre de Deus reliquary, The textiles include 17th-
increasingly which allegedly holds century bedspreads, tapestries,
personalized, a thorn from the many of Flemish origin, such
European style, crown of Christ. as the Baptism of Christ (16th
with popular, Highlight of the century), embroidered rugs
rustic designs. foreign collection and Arraiolos carpets (see p307).
The collection also is a sumptuous set of
includes ceramics Chinese porcelain vase, rare 18th-century
from Italy, Spain and 18th century silver tableware.
the Netherlands. Commissioned by
José I from the Paris
workshop of François-Thomas
Oriental and African Art Germain, the 1,200 pieces
The collection of ivories and include intricately decorated
furniture, with their European tureens, sauce boats and salt
motifs, further illustrates the cellars. The rich collection of
reciprocal influences of jewels came from the convents,
Portugal and her colonies. originally donated by members
The 16th-century predilection of the nobility and wealthy
for the exotic gave rise to a bourgeoisie on entering the
huge demand for items such religious orders.
as carved ivory hunting horns
from Africa. The fascinating
16th-century Japanese Namban Decorative Arts
screens show the Portuguese Furniture, tapestries and textiles,
trading in Japan. Namban-jin liturgical vestments and bishops’
(barbarians from the south) is mitres are among the wide
the name the Japanese gave range of objects on display. Holy relics of Queen Leonor (c.1458-1525),
to the Portuguese. The furniture collection includes Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
LISBON  103
BELÉM
At the mouth of the River Tagus, where the relatively green suburb with many museums,
caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery, parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
Belém is inextricably linked with Portugal’s riverside setting with cafés and a promenade.
Golden Age (see pp50–53). When Manuel I On sunny days there is a distinct seaside feel
came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits to the embankment.
of those heady days of expansion, building Before the Tagus receded, the monks in
grandiose monuments and churches that the monastery used to look out onto the river
mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Manueline style of architecture (see pp28–9) Avenida da Índia cut central Belém off from
are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the the picturesque waterfront, and silver and
Torre de Belém. Today Belém is a spacious, yellow trains rattle past regularly.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Churches and Monasteries Monuments
2 Museu Nacional dos Coches 4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos pp108–9 9 Monument to the Discoveries
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia w Ermida de São Jerónimo Cultural Centres
6 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian e Igreja da Memória
8 Centro Cultural de Belém
7 Museu de Marinha Historic Buildings
0 Museu de Arte Popular
Parks and Gardens q Torre de Belém p112 A
UD
AJ
3 Jardim Botânico Tropical t Palácio Nacional da Ajuda C. DO
M IR A N T E
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0 metres 400
0 yards 400
Manueline arches in the cloister of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos For keys to symbols see back flap
104  LISBON
Street-by-Street: Belém
Portugal’s former maritime glory is evident
across Belém, specifically expressed in the
imposing buildings such as the Jerónimos
monastery. In an attempt to revive and celebrate
Portugal’s Golden Age, Salazar ordered the area
along the waterfront, which had silted up since
the days of the caravels, was restructured to
celebrate the former greatness of the nation. 4 . Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Praça do Império was laid out for the Exhibition Vaulted arcades and richly carved columns
of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praça adorned with foliage, exotic animals and
navigational instruments decorate the Manueline
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to cloister of the Jerónimos monastery.
Portugal’s first viceroy of India. The royal
Palácio de Belém, restored with gardens and
a riding school by João V in the 18th century, Antiga Confeitaria de
briefly housed the royal family after the Belém,a 19th-century café, sells
pastéis de Belém, rich custard in
1755 earthquake.
a flaky pastry cup.

Archaeological finds ranging from an
Iron Age gold bracelet to Moorish
artifacts are among the interesting
exhibits on display.
T R AV E S S A
DOS FERRE
IROS
T. M A R TA
L ARGO
P IN TO
DOS
JERÓNIMOS
IO
ÉR
MP
D O I
A
AÇ
PR
RUA VIEIRA P
O
Torre
de Belém
(see p112)
Rua Vieira Portuense runs

along a small park. Its colourful
16th- and 17th-century houses
contrast with the typically
imposing buildings in Belém.
Key
Suggested route
Praça do Império, an impressive
square that opens out in front of
the monastery, is lit up on special
occasions with a colourful light
display in the central fountain.
BELÉM  105
BELÉM
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
3 Jardim Botânico Tropical

Exotic plants and trees gathered from Portugal’s former
colonies fill these peaceful gardens that were once part of the
Palácio de Belém.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
2 . Museu Nacional dos Coches

This 18th-century coach used by the
ambassador to Pope Clement XI is part of
the museum’s collection. The museum was
moved to the east side of Praça Afonso de
Albuquerque in 2016.
Central
Lisbon
RUA DE BELÉM
RTUENSE
Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
(pink palace) because of its faded pink
façade, the former royal palace is the
residence of the Portuguese president.
It also houses the Museu da Presidência
da República.
Praça Afonso de Albuquerque

is named after the first
Portuguese viceroy of India.
A Neo-Manueline column in
the centre bears his statue,
with scenes from his life carved
on the base.
106  LISBON
Praça Afonso de Albuquerque.
Map 1 C4. Tel 213 614 600. @ 714,
727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. £ Belém.
Belém Palace: Open 10am–4:30pm
Sat. 8 compulsory for large groups
(book ahead: 213 614 980). & Museu
da Presidencia: Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Fri, 10am–6pm & 2–6pm Sat & Sun.
& (free until 1pm Sun).
∑ museu.presidencia.pt
Built by the Conde de Aveiras Pink façade of the Palácio de Belém, the official residence of the President of Portugal
in 1559, this palace once had
gardens bordering the river. In 2 Museu Nacional chairs dating from the 17th,
the 18th century it was bought
by João V, who radically altered
dos Coches 18th and 19th centuries. By
contrast, the collection was
it, rendering the interior suitably Praça Afonso de Albuquerque. Map 2 moved to a new, modern build
lavish for his amorous liaisons. D4. Tel 210 732 319. @ 714, 727, 728, ing by the Brazilian architect
When the 1755 earthquake 729, 751. v15. £ Belém. Open Paulo Mendes da Rocha,
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
(see pp66–7) struck, the king, winner of the 2006 Pritzker
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free first Sun
José I, and his family were Prize, in 2015.
of month). 8 available for groups. 7
staying here. Fearing another ∑ museudoscoches.pt
Made in Portugal, Italy,
earth tremor, they set up camp France, Austria and Spain, the
in tents in the palace grounds The museum’s collection of coaches range from the plain
and the building was used as coaches is arguably the finest in to the preposterous. The main
a hospital. Today the elegant Europe and takes the accolade gallery, in Louis XVI style with
palace is the official residence of of the world’s original coach splendid painted ceiling, is the
the President of Portugal. The museum. First occupying the old setting for two rows of coaches
Presidential Museum contains Royal Riding School, the build created for Portuguese royalty.
personal items and state gifts ing was adapted to showcase a The collection starts with the
of former presidents, as well unique and opulent collection comparatively simple 17th
as the official portrait gallery. of coaches, carriages, and sedan century red leather and wood
coach of Philip II of Spain (see
pp54–5). The coaches become
increasingly sumptuous,
interiors lined with red velvet
and gold, exteriors carved and
decorated with allegories
and royal coats of arms.
The rows end with three
huge Baroque coaches made
in Rome for the Portuguese
ambassador to the Vatican,
Dom Rodrigo Almeida e Menezes,
the Marquês de Abrantes.
The epitome of pomp and
extravagance, these 5tonne
carriages are embellished
with a plush interior and
lifesize gilded statues.
The neighbouring gallery
has further examples of royal
carriages, including two
wheeled cabriolets, landaus
and ponydrawn chaises
used by young members of
the royal family. There is also
a 19thcentury Lisbon cab,
painted black and green, a
colour scheme that was aban
doned in the 1990s in favour
Rear view of a coach built in 1716 for the Marquês de Abrantes, of beige but that is now making
the Portuguese ambassador to Pope Clement XI a comeback. The 18thcentury
BELÉM  107
Eyeglass Chaise, whose black

leather hood is pierced by sinister
eye-like windows, was made dur-
ing the era of Pombal (see pp56–7)
when lavish decoration was
discouraged. The upper gallery
has a collection of harnesses,
court costumes and portraits of
members of the royal family.
In late 2016, the museum will
move to a new building on the
eastern side of the square.
3 Jardim Botânico
Tropical
Largo do Jerónimos. Map 1 C4. Tel
213 921 850/1. @ 727, 728, 729, 751.
v 15. Open Feb, Mar & Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Apr & Sep: 10am–7pm
daily; May–Aug: 10am– 8pm daily; Washington palms in the Jardim Botânico Tropical
Nov–Jan: 10am–5pm daily. Closed
public hols. & 7 5 Museu Nacional dating from 1800–500 BC. This
room has been refurbished to
Also known as the Jardim do
de Arqueologia allow more of the magnificent
Ultramar, this peaceful park Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213 jewellery, unseen by the public
with ponds, waterfowl and 620 000. @ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. for decades, to be shown.
peacocks attracts surprisingly v 15. £ Belém. Open 10am–6pm
few visitors. Laid out at the Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
start of the 20th century as the 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of month). 6 Planetário
7 ∑ museuarqueologia.pt
research centre of the Institute Calouste
for Tropical Sciences, it is more
of an arboretum than a flower The long west wing of the
Gulbenkian
garden. The emphasis is on Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (see Praça do Império. Map 1 B4.
rare and endangered tropical pp108–9), formerly the monks’ Tel 213 620 002. @ 727, 728, 751.
and subtropical trees and dormitory, has been a v 15. Open times vary so check
plants. Among the most museum since 1893. website for details. & 7
∑ ccm.marinha.pt
striking are dragon trees, Reconstructed in the
native to the Canary middle of the 19th
Islands and Madeira, century, the building is a Financed by the Gulbenkian
monkey puzzle trees poor imitation of the Foundation (see p121), this
from South America and Manueline original. modern building sits incongru-
a handsome avenue of The museum houses ously beside the Jerónimos
Washington palms. The Portugal’s main monastery. Inside, the Planet-
oriental garden, with its Visigothic gold buckle, archaeological arium reveals the mysteries of
streams, bridges and Museu de Arqueologia research centre and the cosmos. There are shows in
hibiscus, is heralded by the exhibits, from Portuguese, Spanish, English and
a large Chinese-style gateway sites all over the country, French explaining the move-
that represented Macau in the include a gold Iron Age brace- ment of the stars and our solar
Exhibition of the Portuguese let found in the Alentejo and system, as well as presentations
World in 1940 (see p104). Visigothic jewellery from Beja on more specialist themes, such
The research buildings are (see p317), Roman ornaments as the constellations or the Star
located in the Palácio dos and early 8th-century Moorish of Bethlehem (Belém).
Condes da Calheta, whose artifacts. The main Egyptian
interior walls are covered and Greco-Roman section is
with azulejos. The palace is strong on funerary art, featuring
open to the public only for figurines, tombstones, masks,
temporary exhibitions. terracotta amulets and funeral
cones inscribed with hiero-
glyphics alluding to the solar
4 Mosteiro dos system. The dimly lit Room
Jerónimos of Treasures has an exquisite
collection of coins, necklaces, The dome of the Planetário Calouste
See pp108–9. bracelets and other jewellery Gulbenkian
108  LISBON
4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

A monument to the wealth of the Age of Discovery
(see pp52–3), the monastery is the culmination of
Manueline architecture (see pp28–9). Commissioned
by Manuel I in around 1501, after Vasco da Gama’s return
from his historic voyage, it was financed largely by
“pepper money”, a tax levied on spices, precious stones
Tomb of Vasco da Gama
and gold. Various master builders worked on the building, The 19th-century tomb of the
the most notable of whom was Diogo Boitac, replaced navigator (see p110) is carved
by João de Castilho in 1517. The monastery was cared with ropes, spheres and other
for by the Order of St Jerome (Hieronymites) until 1834, seafaring symbols.
when all religious orders were disbanded.
Refectory
The walls of the refectory are tiled with
18th-century azulejos. The panel at the
northern end depicts the Feeding
of the Five Thousand.
KEY
1 Gallery
2 The west portal was
designed by the French sculptor
Nicolau Chanterène.
3 The modern wing, built in
Entrance to church
1850 in Neo-Manueline style, houses
and cloister
the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
(see p107).
4 The fountain is in the shape of a
lion, the heraldic animal of St Jerome.
5 The chapterhouse holds the
tomb of Alexandre Herculano
(1810 –77), historian and first mayor
of Belém.
6 The chancel was commissioned
in 1572 by Dona Catarina, wife of
João III.
7 The tombs of Manuel I, his wife View of the Monastery
Dona Maria, João III and Catarina are This 17th-century scene by Felipe Lobo shows
supported by elephants. women at a fountain in front of the Mosteiro
dos Jerónimos.
BELÉM  109
. Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

João de Castilho’s pure
Manueline creation was Practical Information
completed in 1544. Delicate Praça do Império. Map 1 C4. Tel
tracery and richly carved 213 620 034. Open 10am–6:30pm
images decorate the arches (Oct–Apr: to 5:30pm). Closed 1
and balustrades. Jan, Easter, 1 May, 13 Jun, 25 Dec.
5 & (free first Sun of month).
7 ∑ mosteirojeronimos.pt
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
£ Belém.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held aloft
by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.
. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
João de Castilho unites Tomb of King Sebastião
religious themes, such as The tomb of the “longed for” Dom
this image of St Jerome, Sebastião stands empty. The young
with the secular, exalting king never returned from battle in
the kings of Portugal. 1578 (see p51).
110  LISBON
shipbuilding from 8 Centro Cultural

the mid-15th century, de Belém
capitalizing on the
experience of long- Praça do Império. Map 1 B5. Tel 213
distance explorers. 612 400. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
£ Belém. Berardo Collection
Small replicas show
Museum: Tel 213 612 878.
the transition from
Open 10am–7pm daily. 7 &
the bark to the lateen- ∑ ccb.pt ∑ museuberardo.pt
rigged caravel,
through the faster Standing between the Tagus
square-rigged caravel, and the Jerónimos monastery,
to the Portuguese this stark, modern building was
nau. Also here are erected as the headquarters of
navigational instru- the Portuguese presidency
ments, astrolabes of the European Community.
and replicas of 16th- In 1993 it opened as a cultural
century maps showing centre offering performing arts,
the world as it was music and photography. The
known then. The centre houses the Berardo
stone pillars, carved Collection Museum, which has
with the Cross of contemporary art by the likes
the Knights of Christ, of Francis Bacon, Willem de
are replicas of the Kooning and Michel Basquiat.
types of padrão Both the café and restaurant
set up as monu- spill out onto the ramparts of
Façade of the Museu de Marinha ments to Portuguese the building, whose peaceful
sovereignty on the gardens of olive trees and
7Museu de lands discovered. geometric lawns look out
Marinha A series of rooms displaying over the quay and river.
Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213
models of modern Portuguese
620 019. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. ships leads on to the Royal
v 15. £ Belém. Open 10am– Quarters, where you can see
6pm Tue–Sun (18 Apr–1 Oct: to 5pm). the exquisitely furnished wood-
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. panelled cabin of King Carlos
& (free first Sun of month). 7 and Queen Amélia from the
∑ ccm.marinha.pt royal yacht Amélia, built in
Scotland in 1900.
The Maritime Museum was The modern, incongruous
inaugurated in 1962 in the pavilion opposite houses ori- The modern complex of the Centro
west wing of the Jerónimos ginal royal barges, the most Cultural de Belém
monastery (see pp108–9). It extravagant of which is the royal
was here, in the chapel built by brig built in 1780 for Maria I.
Henry the Navigator (see p53), The collection ends with a 9 Monument to
that mariners took mass before display of seaplanes, including the Discoveries
embarking on their voyages. the Santa Clara which made Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
A hall about the Discoveries the first crossing of the South Avenida de Brasília. Map 1 C5.
illustrates the progress in Atlantic in 1922. Tel 213 031 950. @ 727, 728.
v 15. £ Belém. Open Oct–Feb:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Mar–Sep:
Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)
10am–7pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1
In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around the May, 25 Dec. & for lift.
Cape of Good Hope and opened the sea ∑ padraodosdescobrimentos.pt
route to India (see pp52–3). Although
the Hindu ruler of Calicut, who received Standing prominently on the
him wearing diamond and ruby rings, Belém waterfront, this massive
was not impressed by his humble angular monument, the
offerings of cloth and wash basins, da Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
Gama returned to Portugal with a cargo was built in 1960 to mark the
of spices. In 1502 he sailed again to India, 500th anniversary of the death
establishing Portuguese trade routes in of Henry the Navigator (see
the Indian Ocean. João III nominated p53). The 52-m (170-ft) high
him Viceroy of India in 1524, but he died 16th-century painting of Vasco monument, commis-sioned
of a fever soon after. da Gama in Goa by the Salazar regime, com-
memorates the mariners,
BELÉM  111
0 MAAT – Museu de
Arte, Arquitetura e
Tecnologia
Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, 1300598.
Map 2 D5. Tel 210 028 130.
@ 727, 728, 729. v15. £ Belém.
Open 12–8pm Wed–Mon. Closed
1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. &
∑ maat.pt;
With a spectacular riverside

view, the stylish Museu de Arte,
Arquitetura e Tecnologia is
operated by the EDP Foundation,
The huge pavement compass in front of the Monument to the Discoveries and is dedicated to contemp
orary art, primarily Portuguese,
royal patrons and all those north side, the huge mariner’s along with modern architecture
who took part in the develop compass cut into the paving and technology. Popularly
ment of the Portuguese Age stone was a gift from South known as MAAT, the exhibits
of Discovery. The monument Africa in 1960. The central map, are housed in an award
is designed in the shape of a dotted with mermaids and winning building designed by
caravel, with Portugal’s coat galleons, shows the routes of the Londonbased architect
of arms on the sides and the the discoverers in the 15th Amanda Levete. Its structure
sword of the Royal House of and 16th centuries. Inside the is a sharp contrast to the well
Avis rising above the entrance. monument a lift whisks you known Lisbon power station,
Henry the Navigator stands up to the sixth floor where which stands next door, and
at the prow with a caravel in steps then lead to the top forms an integral part of this
hand. In two sloping lines for a splendid panorama of building complex. Visits to
either side of the monument Belém. The basement level is the MAAT include a tour of the
are stone statues of used for temporary exhibitions, iconic power station, not
Portuguese heroes linked but not necessarily related to forgetting the pedestrian roof
with the Age of Discovery, the Discoveries. from which visitors can gain
such as Dom Manuel I holding The rather ostentatious stunning views of Lisbon and
an armillary sphere, the poet Padrão is not to everyone’s the Tagus river.
Camões with a copy of Os taste but the setting is Aside from unique temporary
Lusíadas and the painter undeniably splendid and the exhibitions, the museum also
Nuno Gonçalves, as well as caravel design is imaginative. features the Pedro Cabrita
famous navigators, carto The monument looks Reis Collection, which consists
graphers and particularly dramatic when of some 400 works by over
kings. On the viewed from the west in the 70 artists from the end of the
monument’s light of the late afternoon sun. 20th century.
Eastern Face of the

Monument to the
Discoveries
Afonso V
(1432–81),
patron of the
first explorers Pedro Álvares
Cabral (1467–1520),
Henry the Navigator discoverer of Brazil
(1394–1460)
Fernão Magalhães Padrão erected
Vasco da Gama (Magellan), who crossed by Diogo Cão in the
(1460–1524) the Pacific in 1520–21 Congo in 1482
112  LISBON
q Torre de Belém VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Commissioned by Manuel I, the tower was built as a fortress Practical Information
in the middle of the Tagus in 1515–21. The starting point for Av Brasília. Map 1 A5. Tel 213 620
the navigators who set out to discover the trade routes, this 034. Open 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun
(Oct–Apr: to 5:30pm). Closed 1
Manueline gem became a symbol of Portugal’s great era of Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 13 Jun, 25
expansion. The real beauty of the tower lies in the decoration Dec. & (free first Sun of month &
of the exterior. Adorned with rope carved in stone, it has public hols). 7 ground floor only.
openwork balconies, Moorish-style watchtowers and Transport
distinctive battlements in the shape of shields. The Gothic @ 729. v 15. £ Belém.
interior below the terrace, which served as a storeroom for
arms and a prison, is very austere but the tower’s private
quarters are worth visiting for the loggia and the panorama.
Armillary spheres
and nautical rope are
symbols of Portugal’s
seafaring prowess.
Renaissance Loggia
The elegant arcaded
loggia, inspired by
Italian architecture,
gives a light touch to
the defensive
battlements of
the tower.
Royal coat Chapel
Virgin and Child of arms of
A statue of Our Lady of Safe Manuel I
Battlements are
Homecoming faces the sea, a decorated with the
symbol of protection for sailors cross of the Order of
on their voyages of discovery. Christ (see pp28–9).
King’s Room
Gangway
Entrance to shore
The vaulted dungeon

was used as a prison
until the 19th century.
Sentry
posts
The Torre de Belém in 1811

This painting of a British ship navigating the Tagus,
by J T Serres, shows the tower much further from
the shore than it is today. In the 19th century land on the
north bank was reclaimed, making the river narrower.
BELÉM  113
tortured and executed. Their t Palácio Nacional

deaths are commemorated da Ajuda
by a pillar in Beco do Chão
Calçada da Ajuda. Map 2 D2. Tel 213
Salgado, off Rua de Belém.
620 264. @ 714, 732, 742, 760. v18.
The Neo-Classical domed
Open 10am–6pm Thu–Tue (last entry
church has a marble-clad 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May,
interior and a small chapel 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of month).
containing the tomb of Pombal, 7 8 ∑ palacioajuda.pt
who died a year after being
banished from Lisbon. The royal palace, destroyed by
fire in 1795, was replaced in the
early 19th century by this Neo-
r Jardim Botânico
Classical building. Left
The simple Manueline chapel, Ermida de da Ajuda incomplete when the royal
São Jerónimo Calçada da Ajuda. Map 1 C2. Tel & family was forced into exile
in Brazil in 1807 (see pp56–7),
w Ermida de São Fax: 213 622 503. @ 714, 727, 728,
729, 732. v 18. Open Nov–Mar: 10am– the palace only became a
Jerónimo 5pm daily; Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm Mon– permanent residence of the
Praça de Itália. Map 1 A3. Fri,10am–6pm Sat & Sun; May–Sep: royal family when Luís I became
Tel 210 966 989. @ 714, 728, 729, 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–8pm Sat & king in 1861 and married an
751. Open Mon–Sat (by appt). Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 8 Italian Princess, Maria Pia di
Savoia. No expense was spared
Also known as the Capela de Laid out by Pombal (see in furnishing the apartments,
São Jerónimo, this elegant little p56) in 1768, these which are decorated with
chapel was constructed in 1514 Italian-style gardens silk wallpaper, Sèvres
when Diogo Boitac was working provide a pleasant porcelain and crystal
on the Jerónimos monastery respite from Belém’s chandeliers. A prime
(see pp108–9). Although a far noisy suburbs. example of regal excess
simpler building, it is also The entrance on is the extraordinary Saxe
Manueline in style and may Calçada da Ajuda Room, a wedding
have been built to a design (wrought-iron present to Maria Pia
by Boitac. The only decorative gates in a pink from the King of
elements on the monolithic wall) is easy to Saxony, in which every
chapel are the four pinnacles, miss. The park piece of furniture is
corner gargoyles and Manueline has 5,000 plant decorated with
portal. Perched on a quiet species from Meissen porcelain.
hill above Belém, the chapel Africa, Asia 19th-century throne from the On the first floor the
has fine views. A path from the and America. Palácio Nacional da Ajuda huge Banqueting
terrace winds down the hill Notable features Hall, with crystal
towards the Torre de Belém. are the 400-year-old dragon chandeliers, silk-covered chairs
tree, native of Madeira, and the and an allegory of the birth of
flamboyant 18th-century foun- João VI on the frescoed ceiling,
e Igreja da
tain decorated with serpents, is truly impressive. At the other
Memória winged fish, sea horses and end of the palace, Luís I’s Neo-
Calçada do Galvão, Ajuda. Map 1 C3. mythical creatures. A majestic Gothic painting studio is a more
Tel 213 635 295. @ 714, 727, 728, terrace looks out over the lower intimate display of intricately
732. v 18. Open for mass 6pm level of the gardens. carved furniture.
Mon–Sat, 10am Sun. 5 7
Built in 1760, the church was

founded by King José I in
gratitude for his escape from an
assassination plot on this site in
1758. The king was returning
from a secret liaison with a lady
of the noble Távora family when
his carriage was attacked and a
bullet hit him in the arm. Pombal
(see pp56–7), whose power had
become absolute, used this as
an excuse to get rid of his
enemies in the Távora family,
accusing them of conspiracy.
In 1759 they were savagely Manicured formal gardens of the Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
LISBON  115
FURTHER AFIELD
Most of the outlying sights, which include The charming Palácio Fronteira, decorated with
some of Lisbon’s finest museums, are easily splendid tiles, is one of the many villas built
accessible by bus or metro from the city for the aristocracy. Those interested in tiles
centre. A ten-minute walk north from the will also enjoy the Museu Nacional do Azulejo
gardens of the Parque Eduardo VII brings in the cloisters of the Madre de Deus convent.
you to Portugal’s great cultural complex, Visitors with a spare half-day can cross the
the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, set in Tagus to the Cristo Rei monument. Northeast
a pleasant park. Few tourists go further north of Lisbon is the vast oceanarium, Oceanário
than the Gulbenkian, but the Museu de Lisboa de Lisboa, in the Parque das Nações, which
on Campo Grande is worth a detour for its includes other family-oriented attractions,
fascinating overview of Lisbon’s history. hotels and shops.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Architecture
3 Fundaçâo Oriente Museu 5 Praça Marquês de Pombal
7 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – 9 Campo Pequeno Key
Coleção do Fundador pp118–21 y Aqueduto das Águas Livres
8 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – u Palácio Fronteira
Main sightseeing areas
Coleção Moderna Parks and Gardens Motorway
0 Museu da Água Major road
6 Parque Eduardo VII
q Museu Nacional do Azulejo
i Parque do Monteiro-Mor Minor road
pp124–5
r Museu de Lisboa Zoos
Modern Architecture e Oceanário de Lisboa
t Jardim Zoológico
1 Cristo Rei
2 Ponte 25 de Abril 0 kilometres 4
4 Centro Colombo 0 miles 2
w Parque das Nações
Vila Franca
Sights Beyond the City Centre de Xira
A9
17
Lisbon
IC
Pontinha Olivais
IC2
A1
IP1 –
IC1
Amadora
Campo
Grande
IC19
9
IC
IC1
Benfica
7 1
N1
17
PARQUE Xabregas
Estefânia
FLORESTAL
Carnaxide A5
IC1
5– DE
Cascais MONSANTO
Graça
IC17
N6
Alcântara
Montijo
N6
Belém
Tejo
IP7 – A2 (E1
Barreiro
Cacilhas
)
Almada
Porto
N10
Brandão Setúbal Seixal
Decorative tiles (azulejos) and statuary in the Palácio Fronteira For keys to symbols see back flap
116  LISBON
1 Cristo Rei dedicated to showing the

historical and cultural links
Santuário Nacional do Cristo Rei, Alto
do Pragal, Almada. Tel 212 751 000.
between Portugal and its
g Transtejo Cacilhas ferry from Cais former colonies in the East.
do Sodré to Cacilhas, then @ 101. The core of the permanent
Lift: Open 1 Jul–20 Sep: 9:30am– exhibition is split into two main
6:45pm daily; 21 Sep–30 Jun: 9:30am– collections. The Portuguese
6pm daily. &∑ cristorei.pt Presence in Asia section has
a wide selection of exhibits,
Modelled on the more famous ranging from furniture and
Cristo Redentor in Rio de Janeiro, jewellery to porcelain, paintings
this giant statue stands with and textiles. Highlights include
arms outstretched on the south 17th- and 18th-century Chinese
bank of the Tagus. The 28-m- and Japanese folding screens
(92-ft-) tall figure of Christ, and some rare examples of
mounted on an 82-m (269-ft) The top of the towering monument of Namban art – Portuguese-
pedestal, was built by Francisco Cristo Rei overlooking the Tagus influenced Japanese art of the
Franco in 1949–59 at the insti- 16th and 17th centuries. A room
gation of Prime Minister Salazar. modified in 1999 to dedicated to Portugal’s days as
You can see the monument accommodate the Fertagus, the world’s mercantile power
from various viewpoints in the a much-needed railway across when it dominated the spice
city, but it is fun to take a ferry to the Tagus. routes contains Catholic Asian
Margem Sul, also known as Outra The bridge’s notorious traffic exhibits and pieces representative
Banda (the other bank), then a congestion has been partly of multicultural Asian society,
bus or taxi to the monument. resolved by the opening of including crucifixes, ornaments
A lift, plus some steps, takes the 11-km (7-mile) Vasco da and antiques. There are also
you to the top of the pedestal, Gama bridge. Spanning the maps and charts from early
affording fine views of the city. river from Montijo to Sacavém, colonial times.
north of the Parque das Nações, The second permanent
this bridge was completed exhibition is the Kwok On
2 Ponte 25 de Abril in 1998. Collection, which features over
13,000 exhibits on the performing
Map 3 A5. @ 753.
arts of a vast geographic area
Originally called the Ponte 3 Fundação extending from Turkey all the
Salazar after the dictator who
had it built in 1966, Lisbon’s
Oriente Museu way to Japan. It includes a fine
collection of masks from all over
suspension bridge was renamed Avenida Brasília, Doca de Alcântara Asia and a section exploring
(like many other monuments) Norte. Map 3 B4. Tel 213 585 200. shadow and puppet theatre
@ 712, 714, 728, 738, 742. Open
to commemorate the revolution traditions from India, China and
10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Fri). Indonesia. The Gods of Asia
of 25 April 1974 which restored
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 0 -
democracy to Portugal (see p61). exhibit has fascinating Buddhist
∑ museudooriente.pt
Inspired by San Francisco’s and Hindu artifacts.
Golden Gate Bridge, this steel Opened in 2008, this museum The cultural centre organizes
construction stretches for 2 km and cultural centre belonging to Asian cooking, theatre, dance
(1 mile). The lower tier was Portugal’s Orient Foundation is and music activities.
Ponte 25 de Abril linking central Lisbon with Margem Sul, the south bank of the Tagus
FURTHER AFIELD  117
6 Parque
Eduardo VII
Praça Marquês de Pombal. Map 5 B4.
q Marquês de Pombal. @ 711,
712, 736. Estufa Fria: Tel 213 882 278.
Open 10am–7pm daily (Nov–Mar:
9am–5pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. &
The largest park in central

Lisbon was named in honour
of King Edward VII of England
who came to Lisbon in 1902 to
reaffirm the Anglo-Portuguese
alliance. The wide grassy slope
that extends for 25 ha (62 acres)
was laid out as Parque de
Liberdade, a continuation of
Avenida da Liberdade (see p86)
in the late 19th century. Neatly
clipped box hedging, flanked
Beautifully landscaped grounds of Parque Eduardo VII in central Lisbon by mosaic patterned walk-
ways, stretches uphill from
4 Centro Colombo (roundabout), as the praça is the Praça Marquês de Pombal
also known. At the centre is a to a belvedere at the top.
Avenida Lusíada. Tel 217 113 636.
q Colégio Militar. @ 703, 729, 764,
1934 monument to Pombal. Here, in the flower-filled
765, 799. Open 10am–midnight daily. The despotic statesman, who landscaped garden dedicated
7 ∑ colombo.pt virtually ruled Portugal from to Amália Rodrigues (see p69),
1750–77, stands on the top of you will find the Fat Mama
The huge Centro Colombo in the column, his hand on a lion sculpture by Botero. From here
Benfica is the biggest shopping (symbol of power) and his there are fine views of the city.
centre in the Iberian Peninsula, eyes directed down to the On clear days it is possible to
almost matching the adjacent Baixa, whose creation he see as far as the Serra da
Estádio da Luz football stadium masterminded (see pp66–7). Arrábida (see p173).
in size. With over 360 shops, Allegorical images depicting Located at the northwest
60 restaurants and 10 cinemas, Pombal’s political, educational corner, the most inspiring
this mall provides the ultimate and agricultural reforms dec- feature of this park is the jungle-
everything-under-one-roof orate the base of the monument. like Estufa Fria, or greenhouse,
shopping experience. Other Standing figures represent where exotic plants, streams
amenities include a well- Coimbra University, where and waterfalls provide an oasis
equipped health club. he introduced a new Faculty from the city streets.
of Science. Broken blocks of There are in fact two green-
5 Praça Marquês
stone at the foot of the monu- houses: in the Estufa Fria (cold
ment and tidal waves flooding greenhouse), palms push
de Pombal the city are an allegory of the through the slatted bamboo
Map 5 B5. q Marquês de Pombal. destruction caused by the roof and paths wind through
@ 711, 712, 720, 723, 727, 732, 736, 1755 earthquake. a forest of ferns, fuchsias,
738 & many other routes. An underpass, which is not flowering shrubs and banana
always open, leads to the trees; the Estufa Quente, or
At the top of the Avenida da centre of the square where hot-house, is a glassed-over
Liberdade (see p86), traffic the sculptures on the pedestal garden with lush plants, water-
thunders round the “Rotunda” and the inscriptions relating lily ponds and cacti, as well as
to Pombal’s achievements tropical birds in cages.
can be seen. Nearby, Near the estufas a pond
the well-tended Parque with large carp and a play
Eduardo VII extends area in the shape of a galleon
northwards behind the are popular with children.
square. The paving stones On the east side, the Pavilhão
around the Rotunda are Carlos Lopes, named after
decorated with a mosaic the 1984 Olympic marathon
of Lisbon’s coat of arms. winner, is now a venue for
Similar patterns decorate concerts and conferences.
Detail representing agricultural toil on the base many of the city’s streets The façade is decorated with
of the monument in Praça Marquês de Pombal and squares. a series of modern tiled scenes.
118  LISBON
7Museu Calouste Gulbenkian –

Coleção do Fundador
Thanks to the wealthy Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian
(see p121), this museum has one of the finest collections of art in
Europe. The purpose-built museum was inaugurated in 1969 and
created as part of the charitable institution bequeathed to
Portugal by Gulbenkian. The building was designed to best display Mustard Pot
the founder’s collection, with a spacious park allowing for as much This 18th-century silver
mustard pot was made in
natural light as possible. France by Antoine-
Sébastien Durand. 12
Lalique Corsage Ornament
The sinuous curves of the
14
gold and enamel snakes are
typical of René Lalique’s Art 13
Nouveau jewellery.
15
17
16
. Diana
This fine marble statue
(1780) by the French
sculptor Jean-Antoine
Houdon, was once owned
by Catherine the Great of
Russia. The graceful Diana,
goddess of the hunt, is
portrayed in motion, with
a bow and arrow in hand.
Entrance
Stairs to
0m
. Bust of St Catherine (?)

This serene bust, thought to be of St Catherine,
was painted by the Flemish artist Rogier Van der
Weyden (1400–64). The thin strip of landscape
on the left of the wooden panel brings light and
depth to the still portrait.
. Portrait of an Old Man VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Rembrandt was a master
of light and shade. In this Practical Information
expressive portrait, dated Avenida de Berna 45. Map 5 B2.
1645, the fragile Tel 217 823 000. Open 10am–
countenance of the old 6pm Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan,
man is contrasted with the Easter Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
strong and dramatic lighting. (free Sun after 2pm). 7 - 0
∑gulbenkian.pt/museu
Transport
q Praça de Espanha or
São Sebastião. @ 713, 716,
726, 742, 756.
Vase of a Hundred Birds

The enamel decoration that
adorns this Chinese porcelain
vase is known as Famille Verte.
10 This type of elaborate design is
Renaissance art characteristic of the Ch’ing
11 dynasty during the reign of the
Emperor K’ang Hsi (1662–1722).
9
Gallery Guide
The galleries are laid out both
chronologically and geograph-
ically, the first section (rooms
6
1–6) dedicated to Classical and
8
Oriental art, the second section
(rooms 7–17) housing the
7
European collection of paintings,
sculpture, furniture, silverware
5
and jewellery.
Armenian art
1
2
Egyptian Bronze Cat

This bronze of a cat feeding and playing with her kittens
dates from the Saite Period (664–525 BC). Other stunning
Egyptian pieces include a gilded mask of a mummy.
Persian
faïence
Key to Floorplan
Turkish Faïence Plate Egyptian, Classical and
The factories at Iznik Mesopotamian art
in Turkey produced Oriental Islamic art
some of the most
Far Eastern art
beautiful jugs, plates
and vases of the European art (14th–17th centuries)
Islamic world, French 18th-century decorative arts
including this
European art (18th–19th centuries)
17th-century deep
plate decorated with Lalique collection
stylized animal forms. Non-exhibition space
120  LISBON
Exploring the Gulbenkian Collection

Housing Calouste Gulbenkian’s unique collection of art, the
museum ranks with the Museu de Arte Antiga (see pp98–101)
as the finest in Lisbon. The exhibits, which span over 4,000
years from ancient Egyptian statuettes, through translucent
Islamic glassware, to Art Nouveau brooches, are displayed in
spacious and well-lit galleries, many overlooking the gardens
or courtyards. The museum is quite small, however each
individual work of art, from the magnificent pieces that make Early 17th-century Persian faïence tile
up the rich display of Oriental and Islamic art, to the selection from the School of Isfahan
of European paintings and furniture, is worthy of attention.
Far Eastern Art
represents the winged genie Calouste Gulbenkian acquired
Egyptian, Classical and of Spring, carrying a container of a large collection of Chinese
Mesopotamian Art holy water (9th century BC). porcelain between 1907 and
Priceless treasures chart the evo 1947. One of the rarest pieces
lution of Egyptian art from the is the small blueglazed bowl
Old Kingdom (c.2700 BC) to Oriental Islamic Art from the Yüan dynasty (1279–
the Roman Period (1st century Being Armenian, Calouste 1368), on the right as you go
BC). The exhibits range from Gulbenkian had a keen interest into the gallery. The majority of
an alabaster bowl of the in art from the Near and Middle exhibits, however, are the later,
3rd Dynasty to a East. The Oriental more exuberantly decorated
surprisingly modern Islamic gallery has a famille verte porcelain and the
looking blue terracotta fine collection of Persian K’ang Hsi biscuitware of the
torso of a statuette of and Turkish carpets, 17th and 18th centuries. Further
Venus Anadyomene textiles, costumes exhibits from the Far East are
from the Roman period. and ceramics. In the translucent Chinese jades and
Outstanding pieces in section overlooking other semiprecious stones,
the Classical art section the courtyard, the Syrian Japanese prints, brocaded silk
are a magnificent red 5th-century BC mosque lamps and hangings and bound books,
figure Greek vase and Greek vase bottles commissioned and lacquerwork.
11 Roman medallions, by princes and sultans,
found in Egypt. These are are beautifully decorated with
believed to have been struck to coloured enamel on glass. The European Art (14th–
mark a series of festivals held at Armenian section has some 17th Centuries)
Beroia (Macedonia) in honour exquisite illustrated manuscripts Illuminated manuscripts, rare
of Alexander the Great. In the from the 16th to 18th centuries, printed books and medieval
Mesopotamian art section the produced by Armenian refugees ivories introduce the section
large Assyrian alabaster basrelief in Istanbul, Persia and the Crimea. on Western art. The delicately
sculpted 14thcentury ivory
diptychs and triptychs, made
in France, show scenes from the
lives of Christ and the Virgin.
The collection of early
European paintings starts
with panels of St Joseph and
St Catherine by Rogier van der
Weyden, leading painter of the
mid15th century in Flanders.
Italian Renaissance painting
is represented by Cima da
Conegliano’s Sacra Conver
sazione from the late 15th
century and Domenico
Ghirlandaio’s Portrait of a Young
Woman (c.1490).
The collection progresses to
Flemish and Dutch works of the
17th century, including two
works by Rembrandt: Portrait
French ivory triptych of Scenes from the Life of the Virgin (14th century) of an Old Man (1645), a
masterpiece of psychological
penetration, and Pallas Athena
(c.1655–59), said to have been
modelled on Rembrandt’s son,
Titus, and previously thought to
have portrayed Alexander the
Great. Rubens is represented
by three paintings, the most
remarkable of which is the
Portrait of Hélène Fourment
(c.1630), the artist’s second wife.
The gallery beyond the Dutch
and Flemish paintings has
tapestries and textiles from Italy View of the Molo with the Ducal Palace (c.1790) by Francesco Guardi
and Flanders, Italian ceramics,
rare 15th-century medallions his gardens, it was purchased by of the artist’s career, and Boy
and sculpture. Catherine the Great and became Blowing Bubbles, painted about
one of the main exhibits in the 1867. Renoir’s Portrait of
Hermitage in Russia during the Madame Claude Monet was
French 18th-Century 19th and early 20th centuries. painted in about 1872 when the
Decorative Arts One whole room is devoted artist was staying with Monet at
Some remarkably elaborate to views of Venice by the his country home in Argenteuil,
Louis XV and Louis XVI pieces, 18th-century Venetian painter in the outskirts of Paris.
many commissioned by royalty, Francesco Guardi, and a small
feature in the collection of collection of British art includes
French 18th-century furniture. works by leading 18th-century Lalique Collection
The exhibits, many of them portraitists, such as Gainsbor- The tour of the museum ends
embellished with lacquer ough’s Portrait of Mrs Lowndes- with an entire room filled with
panels, ebony and bronze, are Stone (c.1775) and Romney’s the flamboyant creations of
grouped together according to Portrait of Mrs Constable (1787). French Art Nouveau jeweller,
historical style with Beauvais There are also two stormy René Lalique (1860–1945).
and chinoiserie Aubusson seascapes by J M W Turner (1775– Gulbenkian was a close friend of
tapestries decorating the walls. 1851). French 19th-century Lalique’s and he acquired many
The French silverware from landscape painting is well of the pieces of jewellery,
the same period, much of which represented here, reflecting glassware and ivory on display
once adorned Russian palaces’ Gulbenkian’s preference for here directly from the artist. Inlaid
dining tables, includes lavishly naturalism, with works by the with semi-precious stones and
decorated soup tureens, salt- Barbizon school, the Realists and covered with gold leaf or
cellars and platters. the Impressionists. The best- enamel, the brooches, necklaces,
known paintings in the section, vases and combs are decorated
however, are probably Manet’s with the dragonfly, peacock or
Boy with Cherries, painted in sensual female nude motifs
about 1858 at the beginning characteristic of Art Nouveau.
Calouste Gulbenkian
Born in Scutari (Turkey) in 1869,
Gulbenkian started his art
collection at the age of 14 when
Louis XV chest of drawers inlaid with he bought some ancient coins in
ebony and bronze a bazaar. In 1928 he was granted a
5 per cent stake in four major oil
companies, including BP and
European Art (18th– Shell, in thanks for his part in the
19th Centuries) transfer of the assets of the Turkish
Petroleum Company to those four
The art of the 18th century is
companies. He thereby earned himself
dominated by French painters, the nickname of “Mr Five Percent”. With the
including Watteau (1684–1721), wealth he accumulated, Gulbenkian was able to
Fragonard (1732–1806) and indulge his passion for fine works of art. During World War II, he went
Boucher (1703–70). The most to live in neutral Portugal and, on his death in 1955, bequeathed
celebrated piece of sculpture is a his estate to establish a foundation in his name based in Portugal.
statue of Diana by Jean-Antoine The Foundation supports many cultural activities and has its own
Houdon. Commissioned in 1780 orchestra, art library, concert halls and a modern art collection.
by the Duke of Saxe-Gotha for
122  LISBON
by Portuguese artists from the turn cupolas was retained. Call the
of the 20th century to the present tourist office or the number
day. One of the most famous listed above for information on
paintings is the striking portrait of this and other bullfight venues.
poet Fernando Pessoa in the Café
Irmãos Unidos (1964) by José de
Almada Negreiros (1893– 1970),
a main exponent of Portuguese
Modernism. Also of interest are
paintings by Eduardo Viana (1881–
1967), Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso
(1887–1918), as well as contem-
A light-filled gallery at the Museu Calouste porary artists such as Paula Rego,
Gulbenkian – Coleção Moderna Rui Sanches, Graça Morais and
Teresa Magalhães.
The Coleção Moderna’s building
8 Museu Calouste is light and spacious, with pleasant
Gulbenkian – gardens and a busy cafeteria.
Coleção Moderna
Rua Dr Nicolau de Bettencourt.
Map 5 B3. Tel 217 823 000. q São
9 Campo Pequeno
Renovated 19th-century steam pump in
Sebastião. @ 716, 726, 742, 746, 756. Map 5 C1. q Campo Pequeno.
@ 727, 736. Bullring: Tel 217 998 450.
the Museu da Água
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. Closed
1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Open Easter–Oct: for bullfights.
Sun after 2pm). ∑ gulbenkian.pt/ &7 0 Museu da Água
cam/colecao-moderna Rua do Alviela 12. Tel 218 100 215.
This square is dominated by the @ 735, 794. Open 10am–5:30pm
The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian red-brick Neo-Moorish bullring Tue–Sat. Closed public hols. &
– Coleção Moderna lies across built in the late 19th century. A
the gardens from the Calouste full renovation added a roof, a Dedicated to the history of
Gulbenkian Coleção do Fundador shopping and leisure centre and Lisbon’s water supply, this
and is part of the same cultural an underground car park. Much small but informative museum
foundation (see p121). of the bullring’s distinctive was imaginatively created
The permanent collection architecture, such as keyhole- around the city’s first steam
features paintings and sculpture shaped windows and double pumping station. It commemo-
rates Manuel da Maia, the
18th-century engineer who
masterminded the Águas
Livres aqueduct (see p126).
The excellent layout of the
museum earned it the Council
of Europe Museum Prize in 1990.
Pride of place goes to four
lovingly preserved steam
engines, one of which still func-
tions (by electricity) and can
be switched on for visitors. The
development of technology
relating to the city’s water supply
is documented with photo-
graphs. Particularly interesting
are the sections on the Águas
Livres aqueduct and the
Alfama’s 17th-century Chafariz
d’El Rei, one of Lisbon’s first
fountains. Locals used to queue
at one of six founts, depending
on their social status.
q Museu Nacional
do Azulejo
Neo-Moorish façade of the bullring in Campo Pequeno See pp124–5.
r Museu de Lisboa
Campo Grande 245. Tel 217 513
200. q Campo Grande. @ 701, 736,
750. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed public hols. & (free until
1pm Sun). 7
Palácio Pimenta was allegedly

commissioned by João V (see
pp56–7) for his mistress Madre
Paula, a nun from the nearby
convent at Odivelas. When the
mansion was built, in the middle
The impressive Oriente Station, located next to Parque das Nações of the 18th century, it occupied a
peaceful site outside the capital.
w Parque das The 17-km (11-mile) long Vasco Nowadays it has to contend with
Nações da Gama bridge is the longest the teeming traffic of Campo
in Europe and was completed in Grande. The house itself, how-
Avenida Dom João ll. Tel 218 919 133. 1998. Also in the area is the ever, retains its period charm and
q Oriente. @ 705, 725, 728, 744, 750, Pavilhão Atlantico, which hosts the city museum is one of the
782. £ Gare do Oriente. Open daily. concerts and sporting events. most interesting in Lisbon.
7 0 - Pavilhão do Conhecimento
The displays follow the
– Ciência Viva: Tel 218 917 100. Open
development of the city, from
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–7pm Sat & e Oceanário de prehistoric times, through the
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
& Casino Lisboa: Tel 218 929 000. Lisboa Romans, Visigoths and Moors,
Open 3pm–3am Sun–Thu, 4pm–4am Esplanada D Carlos 1, Parque das
traced by means of tiles,
Fri & Sat. Closed 24 Dec. Nações. Tel 218 917 000. q Oriente. drawings, paintings, models
∑ portaldasnacoes.pt @ 705, 728, 744, 750. £ Gare do and historical documents.
Oriente. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–8pm Visits also take you through
Originally the site of Expo ’98, daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–7pm daily (last the former living quarters of the
Parque das Nações has renewed adm: 1 hr before closing). & 7 mansion, including the kitchen,
the eastern water front, formerly ∑ oceanario.pt decorated with blue and white
an industrial wasteland, with its tile panels of fish, flowers and
contemporary architecture and The main attraction at Parque hanging game.
family-oriented attractions. das Nações, the oceanarium Some of the most fascinating
The soaring geometry of the was designed by exhibits are those
platform canopies over Santiago American architect depicting the city
Calatrava’s Oriente Station set Peter Chermayeff. before the earth-
the architectural tone for the Resembling an aircraft quake of 1755,
development. The impressive carrier, it is perched on including a highly
Portugal Pavillion, designed by the end of a pier, detailed model made
the Portuguese architect Álvaro surrounded by in the 1950s and an
Siza Vieira has a reinforced- water. It is one impressive 17th-century
concrete roof suspended like of the largest oil painting by Dirk
a sailcloth above its forecourt. aquariums in the Stoop (1610–86) of
The Pavilhão do Conhecimento world, and holds Terreiro do Paço (Praça do
– Ciencia Viva (Knowledge and an impressive Comércio, see p89). One
Science Pavilion) is a modern array of species – room is devoted to the
museum of science and as well as fish and 18th-century Indian Águas Livres aqueduct
technology that houses several other underwater toy, Museu da Cidade (see p126) with detailed
interactive exhibitions. Also in dwellers, there are architectural plans for
the park is the Casino Lisboa, birds and, uniquely its construction as well as prints
located in the space formerly in Europe, sea otters. and watercolours of the
occupied by the Pavilion of Four separate sea- and completed aqueduct.
the Future. landscapes represent the The earthquake theme is
Views can be had from the habitats of the Atlantic, Pacific, resumed with pictures of the
cable car that lifts visitors from Indian and Antarctic oceans, city amid the devastation and
one end of the park to the other with suitable fauna and flora. various plans for its recon-
or the Torre Vasco da Gama, The main attraction for most struction. The museum brings
Lisbon’s tallest building which visitors, though, is the vast you into the 20th century with
is now a hotel. The promenade central tank with a dazzling a large colour poster celeb-
along the river, which offers variety of fish, large and small. rating the Revolution of 1910
delightful views of the Tagus, Sharks coexist peaceably with and the proclamation of the
is not to be missed. bream, barracudas with rays. new republic (see pp58–9).
124  LISBON
q Museu Nacional do Azulejo

Dona Leonor, widow of King João II, founded the Convento da Madre de
Deus in 1509. Originally built in Manueline style, the church was restored
under João III using simple Renaissance designs, and the striking Baroque
decoration was added by João V. The convent cloisters provide a stunning
setting for the National Tile Museum. Decorative panels, individual tiles
and photographs trace the evolution of tile-making from its introduction
by the Moors, through Spanish influence and the development
of Portugal’s own style (see pp30–31), up to the present day.
Hunting Scene Level 2

Artisans rather than artists began
to decorate tiles in the 17th
century. This detail shows a
naive representation of a hunt.
Kitchen Tiles
The walls of the
restaurant are lined
with 19th-century
tiles showing
hanging game,
including wild boar
and pheasant.
Level 1
Gallery Guide
The rooms around the central
cloister are arranged chrono
logically with the oldest tiles on the . Nossa Senhora
ground floor. Access to the Madre da Vida
de Deus is via level 1 of the museum. This detail showing
The front entrance of the church is St John is part of a fine
used only during religious services. 16th-century majolica
altarpiece. The central
panel of the huge work
depicts The Adoration
Key to Floorplan of the Shepherds.
Moorish tiles
16th-century tiles
17th-century tiles
18th-century tiles
19th-century tiles
20th-century tiles
Tiles from the
17th century with
Temporary exhibition space oriental influences
Non-exhibition space are displayed here.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Moorish Tiles Practical Information
Decorated Rua da Madre de Deus 4. Tel 218
with a stylized 100 340. ∑ museudoazulejo.pt
animal motif, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (last
this 15th-century adm: 30 mins before closing).
tile is typical Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
of Moorish 25 Dec. & (free first Sun of
azulejo patterns. month). - 0
Transport
@ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794.
Level 3
Panorama of Lisbon
A striking 18th-century panel
on the top floor depicts Lisbon
before the 1755 earthquake (see
pp66–7). This detail shows the
royal palace on Terreiro do Paço.
Entrance
The Renaissance
cloister is the work
of Diogo de Torralva
(1500–66).
. Madre de Deus
Completed in the mid-16th century,
it was not until two centuries later,
under João V, that the church of
Madre de Deus acquired its ornate
decoration. The sumptuous
Rococo altarpiece was added
after the earthquake of 1755.
The carved Manueline portal

(see p29), dates from the 19th century but was
recreated from a 16th-century painting.
. Manueline Cloister
An important surviving feature of the original
convent is the graceful Manueline cloister.
Fine geometrical patterned tiles were added
to the cloister walls in the 19th century.
126  LISBON
t Jardim Zoológico
Praça Marechal Humberto Delgado.
Tel 217 232 900. q Jardim Zoológico.
@ 716, 754, 768 & other routes. £
Sete-Rios. Open10am–6pm daily (21
Mar–20 Sep: to 8pm). & ∑ zoo.pt
The gardens here are as much

a feature as the actual zoo.
Opened in 1905, the zoo has
been revamped since, and most
of its aviaries and cages provide
more comfortable conditions
for the specimens. The most
bizarre feature is the dogs’
cemetery, complete with
tombstones and flowers. Other
attractions include a cable
car touring the park, a reptile
house, dolphin shows and an A flamboyance of flamingos at the Jardim Zoológico
amusement park. The area is
divided into four zones, all schemes, as the only area of informative guided tour over
included in the admission ticket. Lisbon with fresh drinking the Alcântara arches. There are
water was the Alfama. A tax on also tours of the Mãe d’Água
meat, wine, olive oil and other reservoir and trips to the Mãe
y Aqueduto das comestibles funded the project, d’Água springs, the source of the
Águas Livres and although not complete water supply. These tours can be
Best seen from Calçada da Quintinha.
until the 19th century, it was irregular, so it is best to contact
Tel 213 251 652. @ 774, 783. Open already supplying the city the Museu da Água (see p122)
10am–5:30pm Tue–Sat. Closed public with water by 1748. The main for details of the trip on offer.
hols. Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras: pipeline measures 19 km At the end of the aqueduct,
Praça das Amoreiras. Tel 218 100 215. (12 miles), but the total length, the Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras is
Open 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–5:30 including all the secondary a castle-like building which
Tue–Sat. & channels, is 58 km (36 miles). once served as a reservoir for
The most visible part of this the water supplied from the
Considered the most beautiful imposing structure are aqueduct. The original design
sight in Lisbon at the turn of the 35 arches that cross the of 1745 was by the Hungarian
the century, the impressive Alcântara valley, the tallest of architect, Carlos Mardel, who
structure of the Aqueduto which rise to a spectacular worked under Pombal (see
das Águas Livres looms over 65 m (213 ft) above the city. pp66–7) in the rebuilding of
the Alcântara valley to the The public walkway along the Baixa. Completed in 1834,
northwest of the city. The the aqueduct, once a pleasant it became a popular meeting
construction of an aqueduct promenade, has been closed place and acquired a reputation
to bring fresh water to the city since 1853. This is partly due as the rendezvous for kings and
gave João V (see pp56–7) an to Diogo Alves, a robber who their mistresses. Today the space
ideal opportunity to indulge his threw his victims over the edge. is used for art exhibitions,
passion for grandiose building Today, visitors may take an fashion shows and other events.
Imposing arches of the Aqueduto das Águas Livres spanning the Alcântara valley
u Palácio Fronteira
Largo São Domingos de Benfica 1.
Tel 217 782 023. q Jardim Zoológico.
@ 770. £ Benfica. Open Mon–Sat.
8 compulsory. Jun–Sep: 10:30, 11 &
11:30am & noon Mon–Sat; Oct–May:
11am & noon Mon–Sat. Closed Sun,
public hols. &
This delightful country manor

house was built as a hunting
pavilion for João de Mascar-
enhas, the first Marquês de
Fronteira, in 1640. Although
skyscrapers are visible in the
distance, it still occupies a
quiet spot, by the Parque
Florestal de Monsanto. Both
house and garden have azulejo Tiled terrace leading to the chapel of the Palácio Fronteira
decoration whose subjects
include battle scenes and and mythological creatures. i Parque do
trumpet-blowing monkeys. In the formal Italian garden the Monteiro-Mor
Although the palace is still immaculate box hedges are
occupied by the cut into shapes Largo Júlio Castilho. Tel 217 567 620.
@ 703, 736. q Lumiar. Park: Open
12th Marquis, some to represent the
of the living rooms seasons of the year. 2–6pm Tue, 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 13 Jun,
and the library, as To one end, tiled
25 Dec. Museu Nacional do Traje:
well as the formal scenes of dashing Tel 217 567 620. Open 2–6pm
gardens, are knights on horse- Tue, 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. Museu
included in the tour. back, representing Nacional do Teatro: Estrada de Lumiar
The Battles Room ancestors of the 10. Tel 217 567 418. Open 10am–6pm
has lively tiled Fronteira family, Tue–Sun. & combined ticket for park
panels depicting are reflected in the & museums; free first Sun of month.
scenes of the War waters of a large 7 ∑ museudotraje.pt;
of Restoration (see Bust of João I in gardens of tank. On either ∑ museudoteatro.pt
pp54–5), with a Palácio Fronteira side of the water,
detail showing João a grand staircase Monteiro-Mor Park was sold
de Fronteira fighting a Spanish leads to a terrace above. Here, to the state in 1975 and the
general. It was his loyalty to decorative niches contain the 18th-century palace buildings
Pedro II during this war that busts of Portuguese kings and were converted to museums.
earned him the title of Marquis. colourful majolica reliefs adorn The gardens are attractive and
Interesting comparisons can be the arcades. More blue and romantic; much of the land is
made between these naive white tiled scenes, realistic and wooded, though the area
17th-century Portuguese tiles allegorical, decorate the wall around the museums has
and the Delft ones from the at the far end of the garden. gardens with flowering shrubs,
same period in the dining room, duck ponds and tropical trees.
depicting naturalistic scenes. The The rather old-fashioned
dining room is also decorated Museu Nacional do Traje
with frescoed panels and (costume museum) has a
portraits of Portuguese nobility. vast collection of textiles,
The late 16th-century chapel accessories and costumes
is the oldest part of the house. worn by musicians, politicians,
The façade is adorned with poets, aristocrats and soldiers.
stones, shells, broken glass and The Museu Nacional do Teatro
bits of china. These fragments has two buildings, one devoted
of crockery are believed to to temporary exhibitions, the
have been used at the feast other containing a small perm-
inaugurating the palace and anent collection. Photographs,
then smashed to ensure no one posters and cartoons feature
else could sup off the same set. famous 20th-century
Visits to the garden start at the Portuguese actors and one
chapel terrace, where tiled section is devoted to Amália
niches are decorated with Entrance to the theatre museum in Rodrigues, the famous fado
figures personifying the arts Parque do Monteiro-Mor singer (see pp68–9).
128  LISBON
SHOPPING IN LISBON
With recognised high street names, large and exclusive designer shops are found around
modern shopping centres, charming markets the Avenida da Liberdade, which is based on
and unique gift shops, Lisbon has an eclectic Paris’s Champs-Elysees in design and character.
range of shopping opportunities. The cobbled If you are looking for something typically
and idyllic streets of the Baixa and the chic Portuguese, such as hand-woven tapestries,
Chiado district are the city’s traditional ceramics or clothes, there are countless gift
shopping areas, and the wine merchants shops and markets around the city where
here are the best in the country. The more you will unearth charming souvenirs.
assortment of dried and

crystallized fruits.
Mercearia dos Açores,
Manuel Tavares, which has
a fine selection of port and
madeira, and Celeiro Dieta,
known for organic foods,
are popular.
Wines and Spirits

Portugal’s large variety of wines
and spirits is well represented
in Lisbon’s specialist shops.
Napoleão, the city’s best-
Beautiful Lello Library is one of of the oldest bookstores in Portugal known wine merchants, has
a number of outlets, with its
Opening Hours Shopping Centres oldest in the Baixa. For port
Traditional shopping hours are Shopping centres have had a specifically, visit Solar do Vinho
Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm dramatic impact on shopping do Porto (see p96) where it is
and 3pm to 7pm, and Saturday in Lisbon, combining vast possible to sample before
9am to 1pm. However, in order supermarkets and restaurants deciding what to buy.
to satisfy growing consumer with shops, cinemas and
demand, many shops, especially banks. Well-known centres
those in the Baixa, open during include Amoreiras, Vasco da Books and Music
the lunch hour and on Saturday Gama, Centro Colombo and The music scene in Portugal
afternoons. Shopping centres El Corte Inglés. is a lively mix of traditions and
are open daily from 10am the very latest. Fado music is
to midnight. hugely popular, while dance
Food and Markets music has a dedicated
There are markets of every following. FNAC is Lisbon’s
How to Pay variety in Lisbon, from municipal best music retailer. Discoteca
Most shops in Lisbon accept markets selling fresh produce to
Visa and other credit cards, the famous Feira da Ladra (see
plus it is also possible to obtain p75). Bargains can be found
euros from one of the many among the bric-a-brac, second-
ATMs located around the centre hand clothes and general arts
of town. and crafts. Coin collectors head
for the Feira Numismática in
Praça do Comércio (see p89).
Tax Free Goods Other good spots are the Feira
Many shops are affiliated to de Antiguidades, Velharias e
the Global Blue Tax Free system Artesanato for antiques and
and are identified by the logo Feira dos Alfarrabistas for
of the same name. The shop old books.
assistant will issue a tax Gourmets will find Lisbon’s
exemption form (isencão na delicatessens (charcutarias)
exportação) which should be irresistible. They are lined with
presented to customs on your superb cheeses, tasty smoked
departure from Portugal in meats and wild game, delicious Bric-a-brac on display at the popular Feira
order to obtain a rebate. sweets (ovos moles) and an da Ladra market
SHOPPING IN LISBON  129
shops in the Restauradores

and Rossio areas of Lisbon
and Arte Rústica in the Baixa.
Portugal’s ceramics are renowned
for their quality and variety,
and in Lisbon you can find
everything from delicate
porcelain to rustic terracotta,
and from tiles to tableware.
Fine porcelain tableware from
Vista Alegre Atlantis makes
for an excellent souvenir.
Brightly painted ceramic plates

Antiques
Amália specializes in fado. The Spanish Zara chain sell The majority of Lisbon’s antique
Portugal also boasts a great affordable clothes for everyone. shops are located either on
literary tradition, with a range More exclusive shops, including Rua Dom Pedro V or Rua São
of authors including Luís de designer outlets, can be found Bento. There are numerous
Camões, Fernando Pessoa, Eça on and around Avenida de religious artifacts to be found in
de Queiróz and José Saramago. Liberdade. Rosa & Teixeira is the area and Solar specializes
Translations of their works are one of an increasing number of in antique tiles (azulejos).
found in most bookshops. known Portuguese designers. Beautiful prints sold at second-
Aillaud & Lellos and Livraria hand bookshops in the Bairro
Bertrand are among Lisbon’s Alto are good value for money.
oldest bookshops. Regional Crafts Livraria Olisipo stocks books
Portugal has a rich history of and also old prints of land-
fine craftwork (artesanato), scapes, fauna and maps. Look
Clothes notably embroidery, fine lace, for shops that are members of
Most of the large chain stores hand-knitted woollens and APA (Associação Portuguesa de
have outlets in Lisbon, partic- delicate gold and silver thread Antiquário), often indicated by
ularly in the shopping centres. jewellery. Head for the gift a sign in the window.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres Feira dos Discoteca Regional Crafts
Alfarrabistas Amália
Amoreiras Rua Anchieta. Open Sat. Rua do Ouro 272, Arte Rústica
Avenida Engenheiro Baixa. Rua Augusta 193,
Duarte Pacheco, Amoreiras. Feira de Antiguidades, First Floor, Baixa.
Map 7 B4.
Map 5 A5. Tel 213 810 Velharias e Artesanato Map 7 B4.
Tel 213 420 939.
200. ∑ amoreiras.com Príncipe Real. Tel 213 461 004.
Map 4 F1. Open Last FNAC
Centro Colombo Sat of every month. Armazéns do Chaido, Vista Alegre Atlantis
Avenida Lusíada. Tel 217 Rua do Carmo 2, Loja 407. Largo do Chiado 20–23,
113 636. ∑ colombo.pt Mercearia dos Açores Map 7 B4 Chiado. Map 7 A4.
Rua da Madalena 115. Tel 213 461 401.
El Corte Inglés Tel 707 313 435.
Map 7 C4.
Avenida António Tel 218 880 070. Livraria Antiques
Augusto Aguiar 31. Bertrand
Map 5 B3. Tel 707 211 Manuel Tavares Rua Garrett 73, Livraria Olisipo
711. ∑ elcorteingles.pt Rua da Betesga 1. Map Chiado. Largo Trindade Coelho
7 B3. Tel 213 424 209. Map 7 A4. 7–8, Bairro Alto.
Vasco da Gama
Tel 213 476 122. Map 7 A3.
Avenida Dom João ll, Wines and Spirits Tel 213 462 771.
Parque das Nações.
Tel 218 930 600. Napoleão Clothes Solar
∑ centrovasco Rua dos Fanqueiros 70. Rosa & Teixeira Rua Dom Pedro V 70,
dagama.pt Map 7 C4. Avenida da Liberdade Bairro Alto.
Tel 218 872 042. 204, Avenida. Map 4 F2.
Food and Markets Map 5 C5. Tel 213 465 522.
Books and Music Tel 213 110 350.
Celeiro Dieta
Avenida António Augusto Aillaud & Lellos Zara
de Aguiar 130, Saldanha. Rua do Carmo 82, Chiado. Rua Garrett 1, Chiado.
Map 5 B3. Map 7 B4. Map 7 B4.
Tel 213 558 164. Tel 213 424 450. Tel 213 243 710.
130  LISBON
ENTERTAINMENT IN LISBON
For a smallish European capital, Lisbon has arts patron, has been joined by other
a great, varied cultural calendar. Musical private funds as well as state institutions.
events range from classical and opera perfor Football is a consuming passion of the
mances to intimate fado evenings, and large Portuguese, and Lisbon’s Sporting and
rock concerts. Dance, both classical and Benfica teams play regularly at home.
modern, is well represented in Lisbon. The Lisbon outparties many larger capitals,
Gulbenkian Foundation, long the only major with a nightlife known for its liveliness.
Booking Tickets cinemas such as São

Tickets can be reserved by Jorge Cinema show more
phoning the Agência de Bilhetes European films. For classics
para Espectáculos Públicos and retrospectives, head to
(ABEP). Pay in cash when you the Cinemateca Portuguesa;
collect them from the kiosk. a programme is available at
Tickets are also sold at FNAC. tourist offices. Theatre
Not all cinemas and theatres performances are most
accept credit card bookings – often in Portuguese, but
check first. large institutions such as
the Teatro Nacional Dona
Maria II and the Teatro
da Trindade occasionally
stage guest performances
by visiting companies. Less
formally, Chapitô sometimes
has open-air shows. Live rock performance at the
Hard Rock Café, Lisbon
ABEP kiosk selling tickets on Classical Music, Opera World Music, Jazz, Pop
Praça dos Restauradores and Dance and Rock
Lisbon’s top cultural centres are Lisbon’s musical soul may
the modern Centro Cultural be fado (see pp68–9), but
Listings Magazines de Belém (see p110) and the the city is no stranger to
Previews of forthcoming Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian other forms of musical
cultural events plus listings (see pp118–21). They host expression. African music,
and reviews of the city’s latest national and international events particularly that of former
bars and clubs appear each such as ballet and concerts. Ballet Portuguese colony Cape
week in major newspapers. is also the focus of the Teatro Verde, plays a big part in
English-language publications Camões. The Teatro Nacional de Lisbon’s music scene. Venues
on offer include the monthly São Carlos is Portugal’s national such as Bartô and B.Leza have
Follow Me Lisboa, which can opera, with a varied season frequent live performances.
be obtained free from tourist that mixes its own productions The Hot Clube has been
offices. The monthly Agenda with guest performances. The Lisbon’s foremost jazz venue
Cultural is in Portuguese. Coliseu dos Recreios has for as long as anyone can
no institution attached and remember, and has the right
so offers a variety of events. intimate atmosphere.
Cinema and Theatre
Movie-goers are very well
served in Lisbon. Films are
shown in their original language
with Portuguese subtitles, and
tickets are inexpensive. On
Mondays most cinemas offer
reductions. The city’s older
cinemas have now largely given
way to modern multiplexes,
usually located in shopping
centres such as Amoreiras,
Centro Colombo or El Corte
Inglés. While these screen
mainstream Hollywood fare, The modern Centro Cultural de Belém in Lisbon
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I S B O N  131
Nightclubs near Santa Apolónia station,

Bairro Alto remains a lively area is Lux, the cream of Lisbon’s
for Lisbon nightlife, although its current club scene.
mostly small bars don’t usually
have dance floors or keep very
late hours. There are exceptions, Spectator Sports
including Incógnito, popular Portugal hosted the 2004
for its alternative sounds. European Football Champion-
Among the larger and more ship, and Lisbon’s two main
mainstream dance venues are teams, Sporting and Benfica,
Station and Main; the first a built new stadiums for the
Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II nearly historic house club, the event, the Estádio José
second a very middle-of-the- Alvalade and the Estádio da
Hard Rock Café is younger, road disco. Luz respectively. Portuguese
slightly bigger, and varies live Bar Lounge, located in football cup finals, as well as
jazz with up-tempo blues, Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré district, other events such as the Estoril
particularly at weekends. has live bands and regular Open tennis tournament, are
Large rock and pop concerts DJ sessions until late from held at the Estádio Nacional-
are held at outdoor venues Tuesday to Sunday. K Urban Jamor. The MEO Arena is also
such as Parque da Bela Vista Beach in Santos and Silk used for indoor events such as
and football stadiums, or Club in Chiado also draw tennis, volleyball and basketball.
indoors at MEO Arena or a fun-loving crowd, while The Autódromo do Estoril is a
Coliseu dos Recreios. eastwards, along the river motor-racing venue.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Classical Music, Bartô Lux
Opera and Dance Costa do Castelo 1. Avenida Infante Dom
ABEP Map 7 C3. Henrique. Map 8 D5.
Praça dos Restauradores. Centro Cultural Tel 218 855 550. Tel 218 820 890.
Map 7 A2. de Belém
Tel 213 470 768. Praça do Império. Hot Clube Main
Map 1 B5. Praça da Alegria 48. Avenida 24 de Julho 68.
FNAC Tel 213 612 400. Map 4 F1. Map 4 E3.
Armazéns do Chiado, Rua Tel 213 460 305. Tel 961 553 745.
do Carmo 2, Loja 407. Coliseu dos
Map 7 B4. Tel 707 313 435. Recreios MEO Arena Silk Club
Rua das Portas de Santo Parque das Nações. Rua da Misericórdia 14,
Cinema and Antão 96. Tel 218 918 409. 6th Floor.
Theatre Map 7 A2.
Parque da Bela Vista
Map 7 A4.
Tel 213 240 580. Tel 913 009 193.
Chapitô Avenida Arlindo Vicente.
Costa do Castelo 7. Fundação Calouste Tel 808 203 232. Station
Map 7 C3. Gulbenkian Cais do Gás, Armazém A,
Avenida de Berna 45.
Hard Rock Café
Tel 218 855 550. Porta 7, 1200-109 Lisbon
Map 5 B2. Av. da Liberdade 2.
(Cais do Sodré).
Cinemateca Tel 217 823 000. Map 4 F1.
Map 4 F4.
Portuguesa Tel 213 245 280.
Teatro Camões Tel 210 116 546.
Rua Barata Salgueiro 39.
Map 5 C5. Parque das Nações, Nightclubs
Passeio de Neptuno. Sports
Tel 213 596 200.
Tel 218 923 470. Bar Lounge
Autódromo do Estoril
São Jorge Cinema Rua da Moeda 1.
Teatro Nacional de Tel 214 609 500.
Avenida da Map 4 F3.
São Carlos Tel 213 973 730. Estádio José Alvalade
Liberdade 175.
Rua Serpa Pinto 9.
Map 5 C5. Rua Pr Fernando da
Map 7 A4. Incógnito
Tel 213 103 400. Fonseca 1600.
Tel 213 253 000. Rua dos Poiais de
Tel 707 204 444.
Teatro Nacional Dona São Bento 37,
Maria II World Music, 1200-349 Lisbon. Estádio da Luz
Praça Dom Pedro IV. Jazz, Pop Map 4 E3. Avenida Gen Norton
Map 7 B3. and Rock Tel 213 908 755. Matos 1500.
Tel 213 250 800. Tel 707 200 100.
B.Leza K Urban Beach
Teatro da Trindade Rua Cintura do Porto de Cais da Viscondessa, Estádio Nacional-
Largo da Trindade 7A. Lisboa 16, Armazem B, Rua da Cintura, Santos. Jamor
Map 7 A3. Cais da Ribeira Nova. Map 4 E4. Cruz Quebrada.
Tel 213 423 200. Tel 210 106 837. Tel 213 932 930. Tel 214 146 030.
132  LISBON
LISBON STREET FINDER

Map references given in this guide for sights that follow refer to the grid reference on
and entertainment venues in Lisbon refer to that map. The map below shows the area
the Street Finder maps on the following of Lisbon covered by the eight Street Finder
pages. Map references are also given for maps. Symbols used for sights and useful
Lisbon’s hotels (see pp386–7) and restaurants information are displayed in the key below.
(see pp398 –401). The first figure in the map An index of street names and all the places
reference indicates which Street Finder of interest marked on the maps can be found
map to turn to, and the letter and number on the following pages.
P O N TE
AV E N I D A D A
TA S
AV E
OB E R
NID
D E SC
A
AV DE C E U TA
DAS
M .I
A
LH E IR A
D
AD
IDA
A AJUDA
CA LÇAD A DA
A
AV E N
T A PA D A
C A L Ç A DA D
DO
DA
E NI O
AV E S T E L
R
U EIR A
Belém DA J
UNQ
R UA NDIA
I D A DA Í
AV E N
Te j o
Key to Street Finder

Major sight Ferry boarding point Viewpoint
Place of interest Tourist information Railway line
Railway station Hospital with casualty unit Motorway
Metro station Police station Pedestrianized street
Main coach stop Church
Tram stop Synagogue
Funicular Mosque
LISBON STREET FINDER  133
AV E N I
AV E N
AV
DA
EN
IDA
IDA D
A JO ÃO X X I
5
ID
AV E N
DO
DE
A REP
S
OUTU
CO
A
RN
MB
ÚB
E BE
AT
BRO
.D
LICA
AV
E
NT
ES
REIS
AV
LMIRANTE
.A
NT
ÓN
IO
A.
LO
AV E N I D A A
DE
ME
AG
E
UIA
P. D
R
ROÇADAS
ES
O NT
.F
AV
AV. G E N E R A L
GUIAR
AQ UIM A. DE A
R. JO
Baixa
and
Avenida
Alfama
C . DA
EST
RE
LA
TO
Bairro Alto
N
A
ES
and Estrela
A NT
D A INF
4 DE J U L H O
A 2
E N ID
AV E N I
AV
Te j o
Scale of Map Pages 1– 6 Scale of Map Pages 7 – 8

0 metres 250 0 metres 200 0 kilometres 1
0 yards 250 0 yards 200 0 miles 0.5

134  Lisbon street finder
Street Finder Index

1° de Dezembro, Rua 7 B3 Amoreiras, Travessa das Basílica da Estrela 4 D2 Carmo, Travessa do 7 A4
1° de Maio, Rua 3 A4 (ao Rato) 5 B5 Beatas, Rua das 8 E1 Carmo, Rua do 7 B4
5 de Outubro, Avenida 5 C1 Amoreiras Shopping Center 5 A5 Bela Vista, Rua da (à Graça) 8 E1 Carrião, Rua do 7 A1
24 de Julho, Avenida 3 C4 Anchieta, Rua 7 A4 Bela Vista, Rua da (à Lapa) 4 D2 Carvalho, Travessa do 4 F3
Andaluz, Rua do 5 C4 Belém, Rua de 1 C4 Carvalho Araújo, Rua 6 F3
Andrade, Rua 6 E5 Casa dos Bicos 8 D4
A Andrade Corvo, Rua 5 C4
Bempostinha, Rua da
Beneficência, Rua da
6 D5
5 A1 Casal Ribeiro, Avenida 6 D3
Abade Faria, Rua 6 F2 André Brun, Rua 3 B2 Benformoso, Rua do 7 C1 Casal Ventoso de Baixo 3 B2
Abílio Lopes do Rego, Angelina Vidal, Rua 6 F5 Berna, Avenida de 5 B2 Casal Ventoso de Cima 3 B1
Rua 3 C3 Angola, Rua de 6 E4 Bernardim Ribeiro, Rua 5 C5 Casalinho da Ajuda,
Academia de Belas Artes, Anjos, Rua dos 6 E5 Bernardino Costa, Rua 7 A5 Rua do 2 E2
Largo da 7 B5 Antão Gonçalves, Rua 1 A2 Bernardo Lima, Rua 5 C4 Cascais, Rua 3 B4
Academia das Ciências, Antero de Quental, Rua 6 E5 Betesga, Rua da 7 B3 Cascão, Calçada do 8 F3
Rua da 4 F2 António Abreu, Rua 1 A4 Bica do Marquês, Rua da 2 D3 Caselas, Estrada de 1 B2
Academia Recreativa António Augusto de Boa Hora, Calçada da 2 E3 Castelo Branco Saraiva,
Aguiar, Avenida 5 B3 Rua 6 F5
de Santo Amaro, Rua 2 F3 Boa Hora, Travessa da
António Enes, Rua 5 C3 Castelo Picão,
Acesso à Ponte 3 A3 (ao Bairro Alto) 4 F2
António Janeiro, Rua 1 A1 Calçada do 4 E3
Açores, Rua dos 6 D3 Boa Hora, Travessa da
António José de Almeida, Castelo Picão, Rua do 8 D4
Actor Isidoro, Rua 6 E2 (à Ajuda) 2 D3
Avenida 6 D2 Castilho, Rua 4 F1
Actor Taborda, Rua 6 D3 Boavista, Rua da 4 F3
António Luís Inácio, 5 A4
Actor Tasso, Rua 5 C4 Bombarda, Rua da 7 C1
Rua 6 F3 Cavaleiro de Oliveira,
Actor Vale, Rua 6 F3 Bombeiros, Avenida dos 1 B1
António Maria Cardoso, Rua 6 E3
Actriz Virgínia, Rua 6 E2 Boqueirão do Duro, Cavaleiros, Rua dos 7 C2
Açucenas, Rua das 1 C2 Rua 7 A5 Rua 4 E3 Cecílio de Sousa, Rua 4 F1
Adelas, Rua das 4 E2 António Pedro, Rua 6 E4 Boqueirão Cemitéirio da Ajuda 1 C2
Adro, Travessa do 7 B2 António Pereira de Ferreiros, Rua 4 E3 Cemitério dos Prazeres 3 B2
Afrânio Peixoto, Praça 6 E1 Carrilho, Rua 6 E3 Borges Carneiro, Rua 4 D3 Centro de Arte Moderna 5 B3
Afonso Costa, Avenida 6 F1 António de Saldanha, Borja, Rua do 3 B3 Centro Cultural de Belém 1 B5
Afonso de Albuquerque, Rua 1 A2 Braamcamp, Rua 5 B5 Cesário Verde, Rua 6 F4
Praça 1 C4 António Serpa, Avenida 5 C1 Brás Pacheco, Rua 6 D2 Cesteiros, Calçada dos 8 F2
Afonso Domingues, Rua 8 F1 Aqueduto das Águas Brasília, Avenida de 1 A5 Ceuta, Avenida de 3 A2
Agostinho de Carvalho, Livres 5 A5 Brito Aranha, Rua 6 D2 Chagas, Rua das 4 F3
Calçada de 7 C2 Arco, Rua do Brotero, Rua 1 C3 Chaminés d’El Rei, Rua 1 C1
Águas Livres, Travessa 5 A5 (a Alcântara) 3 B4 Buenos Aires, Rua de 4 D3 Chão da Feira, Rua do 8 D3
Ajuda, Calçada da 2 D2 Arco, Rua do Chiado 7 A5
Ajuda, Calçada da 2 F2 (a São Mamede) 4 E1
Ajuda, Largo da 2 D2 Arco do Cego, Rua do 6 D2 C Chiado, Largo do
Chile, Praça do
7 A4
6 E3
Alcaide, Travessa do 4 F3 Arco do Chafariz das Cidade Avintes, Travessa 8 F2
Cabo, Rua do 4 D1
Alcântara, Rua de 3 A4 Terras, Rua do 3 C3 Cidade da Horta, Rua 6 D3
Cabo Verde, Rua de 6 E5
Alcolena, Rua de 1 A3 Arco do Carvalhão, Cidade de Cardiff, Rua 6 E4
Caetano Alberto, Rua 6 D2
Alecrim, Rua do 7 A5 Rua do 3 B1 Cima dos Quartéis,
Caetanos, Rua dos 4 F2
Alegria, Praça da 4 F1 Arco da Graça, Rua do 7 B2 Travessa de 3 C1
Cais de Santarém,
Alegria, Rua da 4 F1 Arco Grande de Cima 8 E2 Clube Atlético e Recreativo
Rua do 8 D4
Alexandre Braga, Rua 6 D4 Armador, Travessa do 2 D2 do Caramão, Rua 1 C1
Calado, Travessa do 6 F4
Alexandre Herculano, Arrábida, Rua da 4 D1 Clube de Ténis,
Calouste Gulbenkian,
Rua 5 C5 Arriaga, Rua da 3 C4 Estrada do 3 A2
Avenida 5 A2
Alexandre de Sá Pinto, Arrochela, Travessa da 4 E2 Coelho da Rocha, Rua 3 C1
Camilo Castelo Branco,
Rua 2 D4 Arroios, Calçada de 6 D3 Colégio de São José,
Rua 5 C5
Alfândega, Rua da 7 C5 Arroios, Rua de 6 E4 Rua do 1 A2
Arsenal, Rua do 7 B5 Caminhos de Ferro,
Alfredo Cortês, Rua 5 C1 Columbano Bordalo
Artilharia Um, Rua 5 A4 Rua dos 8 D3
Alfredo da Silva, Rua 2 D3 Pinheiro, Avenida 5 A2
Artur de Paiva, Rua 6 F4 Campo dos Mártires 6 D5 Combatentes, Avenida
Alfredo Roque Gameiro, da Pátria 7 B1
Rua 5 A1 Artur Lamas, Rua 2 E4 dos 5 A1
Assunção, Rua da 7 B4 Campo de Ourique, Combro, Calçada do 4 F2
Alfredo Soares, Rua 1 B2
Ataíde, Rua do 7 A5 Rua de 4 D1 Combro, Travessa do 4 D3
Aliança Operária, Rua 2 E3
Atalaia, Rua da 4 F2 Campo Pequeno 5 C1 Comércio, Praça do 7 C5
Almada, Rua do 4 F3
Augusta, Rua 7 B3 Campo de Santa Clara 8 F2 Comércio, Rua do 7 B5
Almada, Travessa do 7 C4
Augusto Gil, Rua 6 D1 Campolide, Rua de 5 A4 Conceição, Rua da 7 B4
Almas, Travessa das 3 C2
Augusto Gomes Ferreira, Capelão, Rua do 7 C2 Conceição da Glória,
Almeida Brandão, Rua 4 D2
Rua 2 D2 Capelo, Rua 7 A4 Rua da 4 F1
Almeida e Sousa, Rua 3 C1
Augusto Machado, Rua 6 E2 Capitão Afonso Pala, Rua 3 B3 Conde, Rua do 4 D3
Almirante Barroso, Rua 6 D3
Augusto Rosa, Rua 8 D4 Capitão Humberto de Conde Barão, Largo do 4 E3
Almirante Gago
Áurea, Rua (Rua Ataíde, Rua 8 F1 Conde de Monsaraz,
Coutinho, Avenida 6 E1
do Ouro) 7 B4 Capitâo Renato Baptista, 6 E5 Rua 6 F4
Almirante Reis, Avenida 6 E5 Conde de Pombeiro,
Alto do Duque, Rua do 1 A3 Azedo Gneco, Rua 3 C1 Rua 7 B1
Calçada do 6 E5
Álvaro Coutinho, Rua 6 E5 Cara, Travessa da 4 F2
Conde da Ponte,
Álvaro Esteves, Rua 1 B3 B Cardal à Graça, Rua do 8 E1
Travessa do 3 A5
Álvaro Pais, Avenida 5 B1 Cardal, Rua do 7 A1
Bacalhoeiros, Rua dos 7 C4 Conde de Redondo,
Alves Redol, Rua 6 D2 Cardeal Cerejeira, Rua do 5 C5
Alves Torgo, Barão, Rua do 8 D4 Alameda 5 B4 Conde da Ribeira,
Rua (ao Areeiro) 6 E1 Barão de Sabrosa, Rua 6 F2 Cardeal, Calçada do 8 F2 Travessa do 2 F3
Alves Torgo, Barata Salgueiro, Rua 5 C5 Cardeal Mercier, Rua 5 A1 Conde de Valbom,
Rua (a Arroios) 6 E3 Barbadinhos, Calçada Carlos Alberto da Mota Avenida 5 B2
Alvito, Estrada do 2 F1 dos 8 F1 Pinto, Rua 5 A5 Condes, Rua dos 7 A2
Alvito, Rua do 3 A3 Barbosa du Bocage, Carlos Calisto, Rua 1 B2 Condessa, Rua da 7 A3
Amendoeira, Rua da 8 D2 Avenida 5 C2 Carlos José Barreiros, Condessa do Rio,
Américo Durão, Rua 6 F2 Barracas, Rua das 6 E5 Rua 6 E3 Travessa da 4 F3
Amoreiras, Rua das Barroca, Rua da 4 F2 Carlos da Maia, Rua 3 C1 Conselheiro Arantes
(à Ajuda) 2 D3 Bartolomeu da Costa, Carlos Mardel, Rua 6 E3 Pedroso, Rua 7 B1
Amoreiras, Rua das Rua 8 F1 Carlos Reis, Rua 5 B1 Conselheiro Fernando de
(ao Rato) 5 A5 Bartolomeu Dias, Rua 1 A5 Carmo, Calçada do 7 A3 Sousa, Avenida 5 A4
Lisbon street finder  135
Conselheiro Martins de
Carvalho, Rua 1 C2
Dom Pedro IV, Praça 7 B3 F General Massano
Dom Pedro V, Rua 4 F2 de Amorim, Rua 1 C3
Fábrica dos Pentes,
Convento de Jesus, Dom Vasco, Rua de 2 D3 General Roçadas, Avenida 6 F5
Travessa da 5 B5
Travessa do 4 F2 Dom Vasco, Travessa de 2 D3 Gervásio Lobato, Rua 3 B2
Fala Só, Travessa do 7 A2
Cordeiro de Sousa, Rua 5 C1 Domingos Sequeira, Rua 4 D2 Giestal, Rua do 2 E4
Fanqueiros, Rua dos 7 C4
Cordoeiros, Rua dos 4 F3 Domingos Tendeiro, Rua 1 C3 Giestal, Travessa do 2 E3
Farinhas, Rua das 7 C3
Coronel Eduardo Dona Estefânia, Rua de 6 D3 Gil Eanes, Rua 1 A3
Fé, Rua da 7 A1
Galhardo, Avenida 6 F4 Gil Vicente, Rua 2 F3
Dona Filipe de Vilhena, Feira da Ladra 8 E2
Castelo de São Jorge 8 D3 Gilberto Rola, Rua 3 B4
Rua 6 D2 Feliciano de Sousa, Rua 3 A3
Coronel Ferreira Giovanni Antinori, Rua 2 E2
Douradores, Rua dos 7 C4 Fernandes Tomás, Rua 4 F3
do Amaral, Rua 6 E2 Glória, Calçada da 7 A3
Doutor Almeida Amaral, Fernando Pedroso, Rua 6 D2
Coronel Pereira da Silva, Glória, Rua da 4 F1
Rua 6 D5 Fernão Gomes, Rua 1 A3
Rua 2 D3 7 A2
Doutor Álvaro de Castro, Fernão Lopes, Rua 5 C3
Corpo Santo, Rua do 7 A5 Glória, Travessa da 7 A2
Rua 5 A2 Fernão Mendes Pinto,
Correeiros, Rua dos 7 B4 Goa, Praça de 1 A3
Correia Teles, Rua 3 C1 Doutor Eduardo Neves, Rua 5 C1 Rua 1 A5
Gomes Freire, Rua 6 D4
Correio Velho, Doutor Júlio Dantas, Rua 5 A3 Ferragial, Rua 7 A5
Gonçalo Nunes, Rua 1 B2
Calçada do 7 C4 Doutor Mário Moutinho, Ferreira Borges, Rua 3 C1
Gonçalo Sintra, Rua 1 B2
Corvos, Rua dos 8 E3 Avenida 1 B1 Ferreira Lapa, Rua 6 D4
Gonçalo Velho Cabral,
Costa, Rua da 3 B3 Doutor Nicolau Ferreiro, Travessa do 3 C3
Rua 1 B3
Costa, Travessa da 3 B3 Ferreiros, Rua dos 4 E2
de Bettencourt, Rua 5 B3 Gonçalves Crespo, Rua 6 D4
Costa do Castelo 7 C3 Ferreiros, Travessa dos 1 C4
Doutor Oliveira Ramos, Gonçalves Zarco, Rua 1 C3
Costa Goodolfim, Rua 6 D2 Fialho de Almeida, Rua 5 A3
Rua 6 F3 Gorgel do Amaral, Rua 5 A5
Costa Pimenta, Rua 3 B1 Fiéis de Deus,
Doutor Silva Teles, Rua 5 B2 Graça, Calçada da 8 D2
Cova da Moura, Rua da 3 B3 Travessa dos 4 F2
Doutor Teófilo Braga, Graça, Largo da 8 D2
Cozinha Económica, Figueira, Praça da 7 B3
Rua 4 D2 Graça, Rua da 8 D1
Rua da 3 A4 Filinto Elísio, Rua 2 F3
Duarte Pacheco Pereira, Gravato, Rua do 1 A1
Crucifixo, Rua do 7 B4 Filipe da Mata, Rua 5 A1
Rua 1 A4 Gregório Lopes, Rua 1 B2
Cruz, Estrada da Filipe Folque, Rua 5 C3
Duque, Rua do 7 A3 Guarda, Travessa da 2 F4
(ao Caramão) 1 B2 Flores, Rua das 7 A4
Duque de Ávila, Avenida 5 C3 Guarda-Jóias, Rua do 2 D2
Cruz, Rua da Florindas, Travessa das 2 D3
Duque de Loulé, Avenida 5 C4 Guarda-Jóias, Travessa do 2 D3
(a Alcântara) 3 A3 Fonseca Benevides, Rua 2 E2
Duque de Palmela, Rua 5 C5 Guarda-Mor, Rua do 4 D3
Cruz, Rua da (a Caselas) 1 A1 Fontainhas, Rua das 3 A4
Guerra Junqueiro, Avenida 6 E2
Cruz, Travessa da Duque de Saldanha, Praça do 5 C3 Fonte do Louro,
Guilherme Braga, Rua 8 E3
(do Torel) 7 B1 Duques de Bragança, Azinhaga da 6 F1
Guilherme Coussul,
Cruz da Carreira, Rua da 6 D5 Rua dos 7 A5 Fontes Pereira de Melo,
Travessa de 7 A4
Cruz do Desterro, Avenida 5 C4
Guilherme dos Anjos, Rua 3 B1
Forno, Rua do 7 B2
Travessa
Cruz dos Poiais, Rua da
7 B1
4 E2
E Forno do Tijolo, Rua do 6 E5
Guiné, Rua da 6 E4
Gustavo de Matos
Cruz Vermelha, Rua da 5 B1 Eça de Queirós, Rua 5 C4 Forte, Calçada do 8 F1
Sequeira, Rua 4 E1
Cruzeiro, Rua do 2 E2 Eduardo Bairrada, Rua 2 D2 Forte do Alto do Duque,
Cura, Rua do 4 D3 Eduardo Coelho, Rua 4 F2 Estrada do 1 A2
Eduardo da Costa, Rua 6 F4 Fradesso da Silveira, Rua 3 A4 H
Francesinhas, Rua das 4 E3
D Egas Moniz, Rua 6 F2
Francisco de Holanda,
Heliodoro Salgado, Rua 6 F5
Elevador de Santa Justa 7 B3 Hellen Keller, Avenida 1 C2
Damão, Praça de 1 A4 Rua 5 B1
Elias Garcia, Avenida 5 C2 Henrique Alves, Rua 5 A3
Damasceno Monteiro, 6 E5 Francisco Metrass, Rua 3 C1
Embaixador Teixeira de Henrique Cardoso, Travessa 6 D1
Rua 8 D1 Francisco Pedro Curado,
Sampaio, Rua 3 C3 Heróis de Quionga, Rua 6 E3
David Melgueiro, Rua 6 F4
Embaixador, Rua do 2 D4 Horta, Travessa da 4 F2
Rua 1 A4 Francisco Ribeiro, Rua 6 E5
Emenda, Rua da 4 F3 Horta e Silva, Rua 1 B1
David de Sousa, Rua 6 D1 Francisco Sá Carneiro
Engenheiro Duarte Praça, (ao Areeiro) 6 E1 Horta Navia, Travessa da 3 B3
Defensores de Chaves,
Pacheco, Avenida 5 A5 Francisco Sanches, Rua 6 E3 Horta Seca, Rua da 7 A4
Avenida dos 5 C2
Engenheiro Miguel Pais, Francisco Tomás
Descobertas,
Avenida das 1 A2
Calçada 4 E1 da Costa, Rua 5 B1 I
Engenheiro Santos Frei Amador Arrais, Rua 6 D1
Desterro, Calçada do 7 C1
Simões, Rua 6 F2 Frei Manuel do Cenáculo, Igreja do Carmo 7 B3
Desterro, Rua do 7 B1
Engenheiro Vieira Rua 6 F5 Igreja da Memória 1 C3
Diário de Notícias, Rua 7 A4
da Silva, Rua 5 C3 Frei Miguel Contreiras, Igreja de Santo António à Sé 7 C4
Dinis Dias, Rua 1 A4
Entrecampos, Rua de 5 C1 Avenida 6 E1 Igreja de São Roque 7 A3
Dio, Praça de 1 A4
Entremuros do Mirante, Freiras, Travessa das Igreja de São Vicente
Diogo Cão, Rua 2 E3
Rua de 8 F2 (a Arroios) 6 E3 de Fora 8 E3
Diogo Gomes, Rua 1 A4
Ermida de São Jerónimo 1 A3 Freiras, Travessa das Ilha do Faial, Praça da 6 D3
Diogo de Silves, Rua 1 B2
(a Santa Clara) 8 F2 Ilha da Madeira, Avenida da 1 B2
Diogo de Teive, Rua 1 B2 Escola Araújo,
Freitas Gazul, Rua 3 B1 Ilha do Príncipe, Rua da 6 E4
Dom Afonso Henriques, Travessa da 6 D4
Alameda 6 E2 Fresca, Rua 4 E3 Ilha de São Tomé,
Escola do Exército,
Dom Carlos I, Avenida 4 E3 Funil, Travessa do 8 D3 Rua da 6 E4
Rua da 6 D5
Dom Constantino de Ilha Terceira, Rua 6 D3
Escola de Medicina
Império, Praça do 1 C4
Bragança, Rua 1 A3 Veterinária, Rua da 6 D4 G Imprensa, Rua da
Dom Cristóvão da Gama, Escola Politécnica,
Rua, 1 A4 Gaivotas, Rua das 4 E3 (à Estrela) 4 E2
Rua da 4 E1 Imprensa Nacional,
Dom Duarte, Rua 7 B3 Galé, Travessa da 3 A5
Escolas Gerais, Rua das 8 E3 Rua da 4 E1
Dom Francisco Galvão, Calçada do 1 C3
Espanha, Praça de 5 A2 Índia, Avenida da 1 A5
de Almeida, Rua 1 A4 Garcia de Orta, Rua 4 D3
Espera, Travessa da 7 A4 Indústria, Rua da 2 F3
Dom Francisco Manuel Garrett, Rua 7 A4
Esperança, Rua da 4 E3 Garrido, Rua do 6 F2 3 A4
de Melo, Rua 5 A4
Dom João V, Rua 4 D1 Esperança do Cardal, Gáveas, Rua das 7 A4 Infantaria Dezasseis, Rua de 3 C1
Dom João de Castro, Rua 7 A1 General Farinha Beirão, Infante Dom Henrique,
Rua 2 E3 Espírito Santo, Beco do 8 E4 Rua 6 D4 Avenida 8 D5
Dom Lourenço Estádio Municipal General Garcia Rosado, Infante Dom Pedro,
de Almeida, Rua 1 B4 do Restelo 1 B3 Rua 6 D4 Rua 5 C1
Dom Luís I, Rua 4 E3 Estrela, Calçada da 4 E2 General João de Almeida, Infante Santo, Avenida 3 C3
Dom Luís de Noronha, Estrela, Praça da 4 D2 Rua 1 C3 Inglesinhos, Travessa
Rua 5 A2 Estrela, Rua da 4 D2 General Leman, Rua 5 A1 dos 4 F2
136  Lisbon street finder
Instituto Bacteriológico, Londres, Praça de 6 E2 Merceeiras, Travessa Nova de Santos,

Rua do 7 B1 Loreto, Rua do 4 F3 das 8 D4 Travessa 4 D3
Instituto Industrial, Luciano Cordeiro, Rua 5 C4 Mercês, Rua das 2 D3 Nova de São Domingos,
Rua do 4 E3 Lucília Simões, Rua 6 E3 Mercês, Travessa das 4 F2 Travessa 7 B3
Intendente, Largo do 7 C1 Lucinda do Carmo, Mestre António Martins, Nova de São Mamede,
Ivens, Rua 7 B4 Rua 6 E2 Rua 6 F4 Rua 4 E1
Luís Bívar, Avenida 5 C3 Mexico, Avenida do 6 D2 Nova da Trindade, Rua 7 A3
7 A4
J Luís de Camões, Praça
Luís de Camões, Rua 2 F3
Miguel Bombarda,
Avenida 5 C2
Nuno Tristão, Rua 1 A4
Jacinta Marto, Rua 6 D4 Luís Derouet, Rua 3 C1 Miguel Lupi, Rua 4 E2

Jacinto Nunes, Rua 6 F3 Luís Monteiro, Rua 6 F3 Milagre de Santo António, O
Janelas Verdes, Rua das 4 D4 Luís Pedroso de Barros, Rua do 7 C4 Ocidental, Largo 1 B1
Jardim, Travessa do 3 C2 Rua 1 B3 Miradouro de São Pedro Olaias, Rotunda das 6 F2
Jardim Agrícola Tropical 1 C4 Luísa Todí, Rua 2 F3 de Alcântara 7 A2 Olarias, Largo das 7 C2
Jardim Botânico 4 F1 Lusíadas, Rua dos 2 F3 Mirador, Rua do 2 E3 Olarias, Rua das 7 C1
Jardim Botânico 3 A4 Miradouro da Graça 8 D2 Olival, Rua do 3 C4
da Ajuda 1 C2 Luz Soriano, Rua 4 F2 Miradouro de Olival, Travessa do
Jardim Botânico, Santa Luzia 8 D4
(à Graça) 8 F1
Rua do 1 C3 M Mirante, Beco do 8 F2
Oliveira, Rua da 7 A3
Jardim Ducla Soares 1 A4 Mirante, Calçada do
Oliveira Martins, Rua 6 D1
Jardim da Estrela 4 D2 Macau, Rua de 6 E5 (à Ajuda) 2 D2
Machadinho, Rua do 4 E3 Oliveirinha, Rua 8 D3
Jardim do Tabaco, Rua 8 E4 Misericórdia, Rua da 7 A4
Machado, Rua do Óscar Monteiro Torres,
Jasmim, Rua do 4 F2 Moçambique, Rua de 6 E4
(à Ajuda) 2 E3 Avenida 6 D1
Jau, Rua 2 F3 Moeda, Rua da 4 F3
Jerónimos, Rua dos 1 C4 Machado de Castro, Moinho de Vento,
João XXI, Avenida 6 E1 Rua 8 F1 Calçada 7 A1 P
João Afonso de Aveiro, Madalena, Rua da 7 C4 Moinho de Vento,
Madres, Rua das 4 E3 Travessa do 3 C3 Paço da Rainha, Largo 6 D5
Rua 1 A4
Madrid, Avenida de 6 E1 Moinho Velho, Padre António Vieira, Rua 5 A4
João de Barros, Rua 2 F3
João Bastos, Rua 1 B4 Mãe d’Água, Rua 4 F1 Travessa do 2 E3 Padre Francisco Rua 3 C2
João de Castilho, Rua 1 C3 Maestro António Taborda, Moinhos, Travessa dos 2 E3 Padre Luís Aparício, Rua 6 D5
João Coimbra, Rua 1 A3 Rua 3 C3 Monte, Beco do 7 C1 Padre Manuel Alves
João Crisóstomo, Malaca, Praça de 1 B4 Monte, Calçada do 7 D1 Correia, Rua 2 E2
Avenida 5 B3 Manuel Bento de Sousa, Monte, Travessa do 8 D1 Padre Manuel da
João Dias, Rua 1 B2 Rua 7 B1 Monte Olivete, Rua do 4 E1 Nóbrega, Avenida 6 E1
João Fernandes Labrador, Manuel Bernardes, Rua 4 E2 Morais Soares, Rua 6 F3 Padrão dos
Rua 1 B3 Manuel da Maia, Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 1 C4 Descobrimentos 1 C5
Avenida 6 E2 Mouraria, Rua da 7 C2 Paiva de Andrade, Rua 7 A4
João de Menezes, Rua 6 F2
Manuel Gouveia, Rua 6 F1 Mouros, Rua dos 4 F2 Paiva Couceiro, Praça 6 F4
Joâo do Outeiro, Rua 7 C2
Manuel Soares Guedes, Mouzinho da Silveira, Palácio de Belém 1 C4
João de Paiva, Rua 1 B3
Rua 7 C1 Rua 5 B5 Palácio Nacional da
João Penha, Rua 5 B5
Manuelzinho d’Arcolena, Ajuda 2 D2
João das Regras, Rua 7 B3 Mouzinho de Albuquerque,
Rua 1 A1
João do Rio, Praça 6 E2 Avenida 6 F4 Palácio de São Bento 4 E2
Marconi, Avenida 6 D1
João Villaret, Rua 6 D1 Município, Praça do 7 B5 Palma, Rua da 7 B2
Marcos, Estrada dos 1 C1
Joaquim António Museu de Arte Popular 1 B5 Palma, Travessa da 7 B2
Marcos, Largo dos 1 C2
de Aguiar, Rua 5 B5 Museu de Artes Palmeira, Rua da 4 F2
Marcos, Rua dos 1 C2
Joaquim Bonifácio, Rua 6 D4 Decorativas 8 D3 Palmeira, Travessa da 4 E2
Marechal Saldanha, Rua 4 F3
Joaquim Casimiro, Rua 3 C3 Museu Calouste Palmira, Rua 6 E5
Margiochis, Rua dos 1 A1
Jorge Afonso, Rua 5 A1 Gulbenkian 5 B2 Pampulha, Calçada da 3 C4
Maria, Rua 6 E5
José Acúrcio das Neves, Museu do Chiado 7 A5 Paraíso, Rua do 8 F2
Maria Andrade, Rua 6 E5
Rua 6 F2 Museu da Marinha 1 B4 Pardal, Travessa do 2 E2
Maria da Fonte, Rua 6 E5
José Dias Coelho, Rua 3 A4 Museu da Marioneta 8 D3 Paris, Avenida de 6 E2
Maria Luísa Holstein,
José Estêvão, Rua 6 E4 Museu Militar 8 F3 Parque Eduardo VII 5 B4
Rua 3 A4
José Falcão, Rua 6 E3 Museu Nacional de Parque Florestal de
Maria Pia, Rua 3 B1
José Fernandes, Arqueologia 1 B4 Monsanto 1 B1
Marquês de Abrantes,
Travessa 2 E2 Calçada 4 E3 Museu Nacional de Particular, 2a Rua 3 A4
José Malhôa, Avenida 5 A2 Marquês de Fronteira, Arte Antiga 4 D4 Páscoa, Rua da 4 D1
José Pinto Bastos, Rua 1 B1 Rua 5 A4 Museu Nacional
Pascoal de Melo, Rua 6 D3
José Ricardo, Rua 6 E3 Marquês de Pombal, dos Coches 2 D4
Passadiço, Rua do 5 C5
Josefa Maria, Rua 8 D1 Praça 5 C5 Museu de Artilharia,
7 A1
Josefa de Óbidos, Rua 8 E1 Marquês de Ponte de Rua do 8 F3
Passos Manuel, Rua 6 E4
Julieta Ferrão, Rua 5 B1 Lima, Rua 7 C2 Pasteur, Praça 6 E2
Júlio de Andrade, Rua
Júlio Dinis, Avenida
7 A1
5 C1
Marquês de Sá da N Patrocínio, Rua do 3 C2
Bandeira, Rua 5 B3 Pau da Bandeira, Rua do 3 C3
Junqueira, Rua da 2 D4 Marques da Silva, Rua 6 E4 Navegantes, Rua dos 4 D2
Paulo da Gama, Rua 1 A3
Marquês de Subserra, Nazaré, Travessa de 7 C1
Paulo Martins, Travessa 1 C3
L Rua 5 A5 Necessidades,
Calçada das 3 C3 Paz, Rua da 4 E2
Marquês de Tancos,
Lagares, Rua dos 8 D2 Necessidades, Rua das 3 B3 Paz do Laranjal, Rua da 1 C3
Calçada do 7 C3
Lagares, Travessa dos 8 D2 Newton, Rua 6 E4 Pedras Negras, Rua das 7 C4
Marquês de Tomar,
Lapa, Beco da 8 E3 Noronha, Rua do 4 E1 Pedreiras, Rua das 1 C3
Avenida 5 C2
Lapa, Rua da 4 D3 Norte, Rua do 7 A4 Pedro Alexandrino, Rua 8 F1
Martim Moniz, Rua 7 C2
Latino Coelho, Rua 5 C3 Martim Vaz, Rua de 7 B2 Nossa Senhora da Pedro Álvares Cabral,
Laura Alves, Rua 5 C1 Martins Barata, Rua 1 B4 Conceição Velha 7 C4 Avenida 4 D1
Leão de Oliveira, Rua 3 A4 Martins Ferrão, Rua 5 C4 Nova do Almada, Rua 7 B4 Pedro Augusto Franco,
Leite de Vasconcelos, Martins Sarmento, Rua 6 F4 Nova do Calhariz, Rua 2 D3 Rua 1 B1
Rua 8 F2 Mastros, Rua dos 4 E3 Nova do Carvalho, Pedro de Barcelos, Rua 1 B3
Liberdade, Avenida da 4 F1 Mato Grosso, Rua 8 F1 Rua 7 A5 Pedro Calmon, Rua 2 F3
5 C5 Meio, Rua do (à Lapa) 4 D3 Nova do Colégio, Pedro Escobar, Rua 1 A4
7 A2 Mem Rodrigues, Rua 1 B2 Calçada 7 B2 Pedro Fernandes
Limoeiro, Rua do 8 D4 Memória, Calçada da 1 C3 Nova do Desterro, Rua 7 C1 Queirós, Rua 1 A3
Livramento, Calçada do 3 B3 Memória, Travessa da 1 C3 Nova do Loureiro, Rua 4 F2 Pedro Nunes, Rua 5 C3
Lóios, Largo dos 8 D4 Mercado 24 de Julho 4 F3 Nova da Piedade, Rua 4 E2 Pedro de Sintra, Rua 1 B2
Lisbon street finder  137
Pedro Teixeira, Remédios, Rua dos São Bento, Rua de 4 E1 T

Estrada de 1 C1 (a Alfama) 8 E3 São Bernardino,
Taipas, Rua das 4 F1
Pedrouços, Rua de 1 A5 Remédios, Rua dos Travessa 6 D5
Tapada da Ajuda 3 A1
Pena, Travessa da 7 B2 (à Lapa) 4 D3 São Bernardo, Rua de 4 D2
Tapada das Necessidades 3 B3
Penha de França, Rua da 6 E4 Remolares, Rua dos 7 A5 São Boaventura, Rua de 4 F2
Tapada, Calçada da 2 F3
Pereira, Travessa da 8 E2 República, Avenida da 5 C1 São Caetano, Rua de 3 C3
3 A3
Pereira e Sousa, Rua 3 C1 Ressano Garcia, Avenida 5 A3 São Ciro, Rua de 4 D2 Teatro de São Carlos 7 A4
Pero da Covilhã, Rua 1 B3 Restelo, Avenida do 1 A4 São Domingos, Largo de 7 B3 Teixeira Júnior, Travessa de 3 A4
Pero de Alenquer, Rua 1 A3 Restauradores, Praça dos 7 A2 São Domingos, Rua de 4 D3 Teixeira Pinto, Rua 6 F4
Picoas, Rua das 5 C3 Ribeira das Naus, São Félix, Rua de 4 D3 Telhal, Rua do 7 A1
Pinheiro, Travessa do 4 D2 Avenida da 7 B5 São Filipe Neri, Rua de 5 B5 Tenente Espanca, Rua 5 B2
Pinheiro Chagas, Rua 5 C3 Ribeira Nova, Rua da 4 F3 São Francisco Xavier,
Ribeiro Santos, Calçada 4 D3 Tenente Ferreira Durão,
Pinto, Travessa do 2 F4 Rua 1 A4 Rua 3 C1
Pinto Ferreira, Rua 2 E4 Ribeiro Sanches, Rua 3 C3 São Francisco,
Ricardo Espírito Santo, Tenente Valadim, Rua 3 B4
Pinto Quartin, Rua 2 D2 Calçada de 7 B5 Terra, Calçada 6 F2
Planetário Calouste Rua 3 C3 São Gens, Rua de 8 D1
Rio Seco, Rua do 2 E3 Terreirinho, Rua do 7 C2
Gulbenkian 1 B4 São João de Deus, Terreirinho, Travessa do 8 D2
Poço da Cidade, Rodrigo da Fonseca, Avenida 6 E1
Rua 5 A4 Terreiro do Trigo,
Travessa do 7 A3 São João da Mata, Rua do 8 E4
Rodrigo Rebelo, Rua 1 A2
Poço dos Mouros, Rua de 4 D3 Tesouro, Travessa do 3 B3
Rodrigues Faria, Rua 3 A4
Calçada dos 6 F3 São João da Praça, Tijolo, Calçada de 4 F2
Rodrigues Sampaio, Rua 5 C5
Poço dos Negros, Rua do 4 E3 Rua de 8 D4 Tijolo, Calçadinha de 8 E3
Roma, Avenida da 6 D1
Poiais de São Bento, São Jorge, Rua de 4 D2 Timor, Rua de 6 E5
Rosa Araújo, Rua 5 C5
Rua dos 4 E3 São José, Rua de 7 A1 Tomás da Anunciação, Rua 3 C1
Rosa Damasceno, Rua 6 E3
Ponte 25 de Abril 3 A5 São Julião, Rua de 7 B4 Tomás Ribeiro, Rua 5 C3
Rosa, Rua da 4 F2
Ponte, Avenida da 3 A4 Rossio (Praça Dom São Lázaro, Rua de 7 B1 Torel, Travessa do 7 B1
Ponta Delgada, Rua 6 D3 Pedro IV) 7 B3 São Mamede, Rua de 7 C4 Torre de Belém 1 A5
Portas de Santo Antão, Rotunda das Olaias 6 F2 São Marçal, Rua de 4 E2 Torre de Belém,
Rua das 7 A2 Rovisco Pais, Avenida 6 D3 São Martinho, Largo de 8 D4 Avenida da 1 A4
Portas do Sol, Largo 8 D3 Roy Campbell, Rua 2 E2 São Miguel, Rua de 8 E4 Torre, Largo da 2 D2
Portugal Durão, Rua 5 A1 Rui Barbosa, Rua 8 F1 São Nicolau, Rua de 7 B4 Torre, Rua da 2 D2
Possidónio da Silva, Rua 3 B2 Rui Pereira, Rua 1 B3 São Paulo, Rua de 4 F3 Torrinha, Azinhaga da 5 B1
Possolo, Rua do 3 C2 7 A5 Touros, Praça de 5 C1
Possolo, Travessa do 3 C2 São Pedro, Rua de 8 E4
Praças, Rua das 4 D3 S São Pedro de Alcântara,
Trabuqueta, Travessa da
Triângulo Vermelho,
3 B4
Praia, Escadinhas da 4 E3 Sá de Miranda, Rua 2 F3 Rua de 7 A3 Rua 6 F5

Praia, Travessa da 2 F4 Sabino de Sousa, Rua 6 F3 São Pedro Mártir, Rua 7 C3 Trinas, Rua das 4 D3
Praia de Pedrouços, Sacadura Cabral, Avenida 6 D1 São Plácido, Travessa de 4 E2 Trindade, Largo da 7 A3
Rua da 1 A5 Saco, Rua do 7 B1 São Sebastião da Pedreira, Trindade, Rua da 7 A3
Praia da Vitrouços, Sacramento, Calçada do 7 B4 Rua de 5 C4 Tristão da Cunha, Rua 1 A4
Rua da 1 A5 Sacramento, Rua do São Tiago, Rua de 8 D4 Tristão Vaz, Rua 1 C2
Prata, Rua da 7 B4 (à Lapa) 3 C3 São Tomé, Rua de 8 D3
Prazeres, Estrada dos 3 B2 Sacramento, Rua do São Vicente, Calçada de 8 E3
Prazeres, Rua dos 4 E2 (a Alcântara) 3 B4 São Vicente, Rua de 8 E3 V
Presidente Arriaga, Rua 3 C4 Sacramento, Travessa do São Vicente, Travessa de 8 D2 Vaga-Lumes, Rua dos 1 B1
Pretas, Rua das 7 A1 (a Alcântara) 3 B4 Sapadores, Rua dos 6 F5 Vale de Santo António,
Príncipe Real, Praça do 4 F1 Salitre, Rua do 4 F1 Sapateiros, Rua dos 7 B4 Rua do 8 F1
Prior, Rua do 3 C3 Salitre, Travessa do 4 F1 Saraiva de Carvalho, Rua 3 C2 Vale do Pereiro, Rua do 4 E1
Prior do Crato, Rua 3 B4 Salvador, Rua do 8 D3 Sarmento de Beires, Rua 6 F1 Vale, Rua do 4 E2
Professor Armando de Sampaio Bruno, Rua 3 B1 Saudade, Rua da 8 D4 Veloso Salgado, Rua 5 A1
Lucena, Rua 2 D2 Sampaio e Pina, Rua 5 A4 Sé 8 D4 Verónica, Rua da 8 E2
Professor Cid dos Santos, Rua 2 D1 Santa Bárbara, Rua de 6 E5 Sebastião Saraiva Lima, Vicente Borga, Rua 4 E3
Professor Gomes Santa Catarina, Rua de 4 F3 Rua 6 F3 Vicente Dias, Rua 1 A2
Teixeira, Rua 3 C2 Santa Catarina, Sebeiro, Travessa do 3 A3 Vieira da Silva, Rua 3 B4
Professor Lima Basto, Travessa de 4 F3 Século, Rua do 4 F2 Vigário, Rua do 8 E3
Rua 5 A2 Santa Cruz do Castelo, Senhora da Glória, Rua 8 E1 Vila Berta 8 E2
Professor Sousa da Rua 8 D3 Senhora da Graça, Vila Correia 1 B4
Santa Engrácia 8 F2 Travessa da 8 E1
Câmara, Rua 5 A5 Vinha, Rua da 4 F2
Santa Justa, Rua de 7 B3
Senhora da Saúde, Viriato, Rua 5 C4
Santa Marinha, Rua de 8 D3
Q Santa Marta, Rua de 5 C5
Rua da
Senhora do Monte,
7 C2 Visconde de Santarém,
Rua 6 D3
Santa Marta,
Quartéis, Rua dos 2 D3 Rua da 8 D1 Visconde de Seabra,
Travessa de 5 C5
Quatro de Infantaria, Rua 3 C1 Serpa Pinto, Rua 7 A4 Rua 5 C1
Santa Quitéria,
Queimada, Travessa da 7 A3 Sidónio Pais, Avenida 5 B4 Visconde de Valmor,
Travessa de 4 D1
Quelhas, Rua do 4 D3 Silva Carvalho, Rua 4 D1 Avenida 5 C2
Santana, Calçada 7 B2
Queluz, Estrada de 1 C1 5 A5 Vítor Cordon, Rua 7 A5
Santana, Rua de
Quinta do Almargem, (à Lapa) 3 C2 Silva Porto, Rua 2 E3 Vítor Hugo, Rua 6 E1
Rua da 2 E3 Santo Amaro, Calçada de 2 F3 Silva, Rua da 4 E3 Vitória, Rua da 7 B4
Quinta do Jacinto, Santo Amaro, Rua de 4 E2 Sítio ao Casalinho Voz do Operário, Rua da 8 E2
Rua da 3 A3 Santo André, Calçada de 8 D2 da Ajuda, Rua do 2 D2
Quintinha, Rua da
Quirino da Fonseca,
4 E2 Santo António, Rua de Soares de Passos, Rua
Sociedade Farmacêutica,
2 F3
W
(à Estrela) 3 C2
Rua 6 E3 Santo António, Rua da 5 C5 Washington, Rua 8 F1
Travessa de (à Graça) 8 E1 Soeiro Pereira Gomes,
R Santo António da Glória, Rua
Sol, Rua do (a Chelas)
5 A1
6 F3
X
Rua 4 F1
Rafael de Andrade, Rua 6 E5 Santo António da Sé, Sol, Rua do (à Graça) 8 E1 Xavier Cordeiro, Rua 6 D2
Ramalho Ortigão, Rua 5 A3 Rua de 7 C4 Sol, Rua do (ao Rato) 4 D1
Rato, Largo do
Rebelo da Silva, Rua
4 E1
6 D3
Santo Estêvão, Rua de
Santos, Largo de
8 E3
4 E3
Sol, Rua do (a Santana)
Solar do Vinho do Porto
7 B1
4 F2
Z
Regueira, Rua da 8 E4 Santos Dumont, Avenida 5 A2 Sousa Lopes, Rua 5 B1 Zagalo, Travessa do 8 F3
Regueirão dos Anjos, Rua 6 E5 Santos-o-Velho, Rua de 4 D3 Sousa Martins, Rua 5 C4 Zaire, Rua do 6 E4
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Introducing Central
Portugal 148–153
The Lisbon Coast 154–175
Estremadura and Ribatejo 176–199
The Beiras 200–227
148  CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Central Portugal at a Glance

Between Portugal’s capital and its second city, Porto,
you can find some of the country’s most impressive
architecture and important historical sights. Near
Lisbon are the stunning palaces of Sintra and Queluz,
and several of Portugal’s foremost religious sites in
Estremadura. Estremadura and Beira Litoral mix empty
beaches with quaint fishing villages and smart resorts,
while the lush country stretching inland to the banks
of the Tagus supports livestock and crops from rice to
grapes and other fruits. Further north, the Beiras are Batalha means “battle” and the
monastery of Santa Maria da
more varied, with the historic university town of Vitória at Batalha was built to Praia
Coimbra, the vine-clad valleys of the Dão wine region give thanks for victory over de Mira
and the bleak highlands and fortress towns of Beira the Spanish at the Battle of
Alta and Beira Baixa. Dominating this remote region is Aljubarrota in 1385. Its delicate
style makes it one of Portugal’s
the granite range of the Serra da Estrela. finest Gothic buildings
(see pp188–9).
Figueira Montemor-o-
da Foz Velho
Conímbriga
Alcobaça is principally known
for its abbey, founded in the
Pombal
12th century by Portugal’s first
king, Afonso Henriques. The Leiria
graceful, contemplative air of São Pedro
de Muel
this great Cistercian house (see
pp184–5) is exemplified by its Batalha
Nazaré
huge vaulted dormitory. Fátima
Alcobaça Torres
São Martinho Novas
Sintra, just west of Lisbon, is Caldas da do Porto
a cool wooded retreat from the Rainha
ESTREMADURA
heat of the capital. This is where AND THE RIBATEJO
Peniche
the Portuguese monarchs Óbidos (see pp176–199)
chose to spend their summers. Alpiarça
Lourinhã
The Palácio Nacional is full of Santarém
remarkable decorative effects,
Almeirim
such as this painted “magpie”
ceiling (see pp164–5). Torres
Alenquer
Vedras
Ericeira Mafra
Vila Franca
Alverca de Xira Coruche
Colares
Sintra
Lisbon Alcochete
THE LISBON COAST

(see pp154–175)
Costa da Palmela
Caparica
Setúbal
Tróia
Sesimbra
Alcácer
do Sal
The Palácio de Queluz,

a masterpiece of Rococo archi
tecture (see pp170–71), lies just
outside Lisbon. The Lion Staircase
leads up to the colonnaded 0 kilometres 50
pavilion named after its architect,
0 miles 50
JeanBaptiste Robillion.
The colourful and unusual 18th-century Palácio da Pena, in Sintra
INTRODUCING CENTRAL PORTUGAL  149
Sernancelhe
Arouca Castro
Daire
Pinhel
Trancoso Almeida
Celorico da
Viseu Beira
Caramulo
Vilar Buçaco’s walled forest is an
Águeda Formoso
Tondela
Guarda
arboretum and a religious
Gouveia retreat. A Via Sacra winds
among mossy trunks to
Manteigas
Sabugueiro stunning views from the
Sabugal
hilltop Calvary (see pp216–17).
Avô Covilhã
Coimbra
Penamacor
Arganil
THE BEIRAS Fundão
(see pp200–227)
Monsanto
Penela Idanha-a
-Velha
Castelo
Branco
Tomar The Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain range in

mainland Portugal, offers startling contrasts of scenery,
from bare ice-eroded peaks to green pastures dotted
with shepherds’ huts (see pp224–5).
Abrantes
Coimbra University is the

oldest and most prestigious in
Portugal (see pp212–13). Long
ago it expanded beyond the
royal palace which became
its home in 1537, but the
old palace, with its gilded
Capela de São Miguel and
spectacular library, are still at
the heart of the campus.
Tomar was founded by the Knights Templar

in the 12th century, when these warrior
monks played a leading role in the
campaigns to win back Portugal from
the Moors. The Templars’ fortress survives,
as does the drum-shaped bulk of their
Rotunda, or oratory. This forms the core
of the Convento de Cristo which over
the centuries was built up around the
original church (see pp190–93).
Horsemanship and Bullfighting

Classical dressage and bravura bullfighting in Portugal are linked to
the Marquês de Marialva, the King’s Master of the Horse from 1770
to 1799. He made famous the most advanced and difficult dressage
techniques, including some in which the horse lifts itself off the
ground like a ballet dancer. The Art of Marialva, as it is called, is of great
use to horsemen in the bullring, and they will usually demonstrate some
dressage movements for the entertainment of the crowd. In Portugal,
the bull is never killed in the arena. The Ribatejo is the traditional
centre of bullfighting, and it is also seen in the Alentejo, but it courts
controversy; though seen by many as part of their culture, the younger
generation, and tourists, generally don’t approve.
Advertising a summer
Ribatejan herdsmen or bullfight in Santarém
campinos, who round up
the fighting bulls, here
demonstrate their skills. Leading bullfighter João
Moura salutes the crowd at
a tourada.
The mane is plaited with

ribbons for a beautifully
groomed effect.
The Cavaleiro
The bullfighter or cavaleiro wears
traditional 18th-century costume,
including the satin coat of a
grandee, and rides an elaborately
adorned horse. He has to plant
a number of darts (farpas) in
the bull’s shoulders, and his
performance is judged on
style and courage.
The costly saddle cloth

is embroidered with Box stirrups are
João Moura’s initials. traditional, stylish
and secure.
Tail tidying and
decoration go back
to the ornate French
style of Louis XV.
Traditional Equestrian Skills The Marquês de Marialva trains his

horse in the croupade, its hind
Lisbon’s Escola Portuguesa de Arte Equestre, legs tucked up beneath it, as
and equestrian centres in the Ribatejo, today it springs
maintain the standards set by Marialva. The into the air.
Lisbon school performs several times a year
around the country. On Lusitanian horses
of Alter Real stock (see p302), riders in
18th-century costume give superb
dressage displays. Their movements
resemble these illustrations of 1790
Plaque of Lezíria Grande from a book on equestrianism,
Equestrian Centre dedicated to Dom João (later
(see p198) João VI), himself a keen horseman.
Partnership between man and horse is paramount in

a bullfighting ring. Most cavaleiros ride a Lusitanian,
the world’s oldest saddle horse and a classic warrior
steed, famed for its courage, grace and strength. Its
agility and speed are essential in the ring, and
defenders of bullfighting believe the spectacle has
helped preserve the breed.
At this opening ceremony in Montijo,

the two cavaleiros line up with the
forcados on either side.
The cape is used to
both distract and
provoke the bull. The Bullfight
The bull charges, its
horns blunted and The corrida or tourada
sheathed in leather, a combines drama and
cause of controversy. daring. First, a team of
bullfighters on foot
(peões de brega) distracts
the bull with capes,
preparing it for the
cavaleiro. He is followed
by eight volunteer
forcados, who aim to
overcome the bull with
their bare hands in what
is known as the pega.
After a bullfight on Graciosa, in the

Azores, the matador accepts gifts of
flowers and waves to the crowd.
The bullfight ends with the

pega. The leader of the forcados
challenges the bull to charge, then
launches himself over its head. The
others try to hold him in place and
use their combined weight to bring
the bull to a standstill, with one of the The main bullfighters at
men holding onto its tail. Eight times a Portuguese tourada
out of ten the forcados get tossed in wear elaborate costume
with intricate gold stitching,
all directions, then re-form to repeat a symbol of their status.
the challenge. Finally the bull is
herded from the ring among a
group of farm oxen.
Dom João himself The Marquês de

demonstrates Marialva teaches
the galope, his mount to turn
a difficult in tight circles round
exercise with a pole.
a change of
direction at
each step.
The horse leaps from a standstill,

back legs outstretched, in the
dramatic capriole.
The Flavours of Central Portugal

The geography of central Portugal ranges from a lagoon-
dotted Atlantic coastline and a vast flood plain to a hilly,
then rocky, interior crowned by Portugal’s highest mountains.
The food here is equally varied, with roast suckling pig in the
north, a rich choice of fish and seafood from the ports,
unique cheeses and hearty stews from the mountains. One
popular dish reflecting this diversity is porco à alentejana,
a mixture of pork and clams. Cuisines old and new, exotic
and familiar, rub along together in Lisbon, where
cosmopolitanism has quietly thrived for half a millennium. Sardines
barbecued chicken with chilli nickname alfacinhas for natives

(frango à piri-piri), originated in of Lisbon may have a connec-
former colonies in Africa. The tion with alface (lettuce) – the
Lisbon speciality peixinhos da city is famous for an especially
horta (runner beans coated in delicious variety.
batter and deep fried) provides
an interesting insight into
influences going the other The Bairrada and
way. Japanese tempura is said Sierra da Estrela
to have developed from this The town of Mealhada, in the
Portuguese dish, introduced to Bairrada region to the north, is
Lisbon’s famed lettuces take pride of place Japan in the 16th century. The known throughout Portugal for
on a vegetable stall
Serra da Estrela Queijo fresco Alavão
Lisbon Saloio
The capital is not just the place Palhais
where all the flavours of
Portugal come together, but
also where the influences of
Portugal’s 16th-century overseas
expansion get their strongest
expression. This applies equally
to older influences, long since
assimilated into the local cuisine,
and to newer phenomena,
from Cape Verdean restaurants
to sushi bars. One old favourite, Fine ewe’s and goat’s milk cheeses from central Portugal
Regional Dishes and Specialities

Chanfana is a speciality of Beira Litoral in which
goat’s meat is cooked slowly with wine
and spices in an earthenware pot
known as a caçoilo. Cabrito à padeiro
is a similar dish using kid that, after
a wine marinade, is roasted and
continually basted with the marinade.
Paprika Traditionally, this would be done in the
local baker’s large wood-fired oven, and
the best restaurants to eat it in are the ones with such ovens.
Caldeirada de peixe is cooked all over Portugal but does not get
any better than in Nazaré or Peniche, preferably eaten outdoors
within sight of the sea. Feijoada is one of Portugal’s most versatile Feijoada is a paprika-spiced
dishes, mixing beans with a wide range of ingredients, including stew of beans, vegetables and
cuttlefish and snails. The latter is a speciality of Tomar. Favas à cured meat (usually pork), with
Portuguesa is a Lisbon favourite. many local variations.
to the fertile Lezíria flood

plain of Ribatejo, land of bulls,
horses and juicy melons. Vila
Franca de Xira, back on the
west bank of the river, is a
good place to try the local bull
meat. For the most part, the
regional cuisine of Ribatejo is
frugal and thrifty. A classic
example is magusto, a thick
purée of dry maize (corn) and
white bread blended with
water, olive oil, and boiled
kale served with oven-baked
Meats, cheeses and sausages on sale at a market in Sintra bacalhau (salt cod).
its leitão, spit-roasted suckling Estremadura and REGIONAL WINES

pig. The local custom is to drink Ribatejo
red sparkling wine, unique to Further south, in Estremadura, The Dão wine region now
this area, with the crisp- the fishing ports of Nazaré and produces some of Portugal’s finest
red wines, often distinguishable
skinned but mild-tasting pig. Peniche boast a smaller catch
from the wines of the Douro to
Nearby Luso is the source of than they once did, but the
the north by their greater
one of Portugal’s finest mineral local sardines in particular are elegance. The Bairrada region
waters. The granite Serra da well worth sampling. The rolling borders Dão but has only one
Estrela mountain range is hills of Estremadura give way, authorized grape variety for
home to Portugal’s most as you cross the Tejo eastwards, making reds: Baga. There are some
famous cheese, the distinctive great examples of traditional style,
and buttery Serra. It is made with deep tannins and hints of
from ewe’s milk, and the pine and bonfire, but modernity
rounds are wrapped in muslin features too, with fruitier, more
to maintain their shape. Bay approachable reds and fresh, light
leaves are often used in whites. Estremadura and Ribatejo
Portuguese cooking, and once produced vast amounts
of fairly unpalatable wine for
the black-barked bay tree
mass consumption or distillation.
is common in these parts –
Now they shine, with wines often
though the scent in the air is made from foreign grape varieties.
not of bay but of eucalyptus. Of Lisbon’s own appellations –
Bean stews are another Colares, Carcavelos and Bucelas –
common feature of the local only the last remains commercially
cuisine, particularly feijoada, of viable, making some of the
which every town and village Traditional Lisbon egg tarts, known as country’s most distinctive whites.
seems to have its own version. Pasteis de Belém
Caldeirada de peixe, a fish Favas à Portuguesa combines Arroz doce is a delicious

stew, uses a selection of sea- broad (fava) beans with morcela dessert of lemon-zest scented
food along with potatoes, (blood sausage) and chopped rice pudding topped with
tomatoes and peppers. pork ribs. a decoration of cinnamon.
THE LISBON COAST

Within an hour’s drive northwest of Lisbon you can reach the
rocky Atlantic coast, the wooded slopes of Sintra or countryside
dotted with villas and royal palaces. South of Lisbon you can
enjoy the sandy beaches and fishing towns along the coast or
explore the lagoons of the Tagus and Sado river estuaries.
From the Phoenicians to the Spanish, urbanization, small

traders and invaders have left their mark fishing and farming
on this region, such as the forts and communities still remain. Lively fish
castles of the Moors, rebuilt many times markets offer a huge variety of fresh
over the centuries, which can be found fish and seafood; Palmela and the Sado
all along this coast. After Lisbon became region are noted for their wine; sheep
the capital in 1256, Portuguese kings and still roam the unspoilt Serra da Arrábida,
nobles built summer palaces and villas in providing milk for Azeitão cheese; and
the countryside west of the city, particu rice is the main crop in the Sado estuary.
larly on the cool, green heights of the Traditional industries also survive, such as
Serra de Sintra. salt panning near Alcochete and marble
Across the Tagus, the southern shore quarries at Pero Pinheiro.
(Margem Sul) could be reached only by Though the sea is cold and often rough,
ferry, until the suspension bridge was built especially on westfacing coasts, the
in 1966. Now, the long sandy beaches of beaches are among the cleanest in
the Costa da Caparica, the coast around Europe. As well as surfing, fishing and
the fishing town of Sesimbra and even the scuba diving, the region provides splendid
remote Tróia peninsula have become golf courses, horse riding facilities and a
popular resorts during the summer motorracing track. Arts and entertainment
months. Fortunately, large stretches of range from music and cinema festivals to
coast and unspoilt countryside are being bullfights and country fairs where regional
protected as conservation areas and crafts, such as handpainted pottery, lace
nature reserves. Despite the region’s rapid and baskets, are on display.
Palácio de Mafra (see p158), an 18th-century Baroque palace and monastery on the Lisbon coast
A stretch of stunning coastline in Cascais, near Lisbon
Exploring the Lisbon Coast

North of the Tagus, the beautiful hilltown of Sintra is
dotted with historic palaces and surrounded by wooded
hills, at times enveloped in an eerie sea mist. On the Torres Vedras
coast, cosmopolitan Cascais and the traditional
Turcifal
fishing town of Ericeira are both excellent Encarnação
Sobral de
bases from which to explore the rocky Monte Agraço
Ribamar
coastline and surrounding countryside. Santo Isidoro
South of the Tagus, the Serra da Arrábida Vila Franca do
Rosário
and the rugged coast around Cabo ERICEIRA
Sobreiro
Murgeira
Espichel can be visited from the small
port of Sesimbra. Inland, the nature PALÁCIO DE Milharado
MAFRA Malveira
reserves of the Tagus and Sado
estuaries offer a quiet retreat. LISBOA
Cheleiros
Lousa
São João das
Lampas
Pero Pinheiro
Azenhas do
Sights at a Glance Mar Loures
Praia das
1 Palácio de Mafra Maçãs Caneças
MONSERRATE
2 Ericeira
COLARES
3 Colares SINTRA Odivelas
5 Monserrate Cabo da A Belas
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R
6 Sintra pp162–7 PALÁCIO DE
7 Cascais Malveira da Serra
Alcabideche
QUELUZ
8 Estoril Guincho
9 Palácio de Queluz pp170–71 LISBON
0 Alcochete Caxias
Boca do Inferno ESTORIL
q Costa da Caparica Oeiras Almada
w Cabo Espichel CASCAIS Trafaria
Carcavelos
e Sesimbra Arieiro
r Palmela COSTA DA CAPARICA
t Serra da Arrábida
y Setúbal
u Península de Tróia
i Alcácer do Sal
ATLANTIC
0 kilometres 10 OCEAN
Tours 0 miles 5
4 Serra de Sintra
Lagoa de
Albufeira
Alfarim
Nossa Senhora
do Cabo
Key CABO ESPICHEL
Motorway
Secondary road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Cabo da Roca on the western edge of Serra de Sintra

THE LISBON COAST  157
Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from
Lisbon to Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and
Setúbal. Main roads are generally well-
signposted and surfaced, though traffic
congestion can be a problem, partic-
ularly at weekends and holidays. Watch
out for potholes on smaller roads. Fast,
frequent trains run from Lisbon: from Cais
do Sodré station to Estoril and Cascais,
from Roma-Areeiro and Entrecampos
stations to Queluz and Sintra and from
Rossio station to Queluz and Sintra. Cross-
ing the April 25 bridge, trains south to
Setúbal leave from Roma-Areeiro station,
Convento da Arrábida in the hills of the and high-speed Alfa Pendular services
Alverca do
Ribatejo Serra da Arrábida south to Évora and the Algarve depart
from Oriente station. There are good
ia
bus services to all parts of the region,

ra
Póvoa de
or
most of which leave from Sete Rios.

oS
Santa Iria
Ri
Vila Franca de Xira

São João da Talha
o
Te j
Reser va
N a tura l do
Sacavém Es t u á r io do Tejo
Canha Rib
eira
ALCOCHETE de Canh
a
Rio
Samouco
Montijo
Atalaia
Pegões Velhos
Rio Frio
Barreiro Évora
Moita
Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
Santo António
da Charneca
SETÚBAL
Coina
Águas Marateca
PALMELA de Moura
Marco do Grilo
Vila Fresca de
Azeitão A
ID
Vila Nogueira R ÁB SETÚBAL
de Azeitão AR Re s e r va
DA Tróia N a t ura l d o Palma ho
tin
RA Figueirinha
Es t uá r i o d o S a d o
Pinheiros M
ar
R
Santana Ri Estação
SE
Pinheiro
ão
Portinho o
S
Sad
de
da Arrábida PENÍNSULA o
ira
SESIMBRA DE TRÓIA
be
Ri
Baía de
Setúbal Montalvo
Comporta
ALCÁCER DO SAL
Grândola
Fishing boats in the harbour

at Sesimbra
and some alarming medical

instruments, to the infirmary,
where patients could see and
hear mass in the adjoining chapel
without leaving their beds.
Upstairs, the sumptuous
palace state rooms extend
across the whole of the monu
mental west façade, with the
King’s apartments at one end
and the Queen’s apartments at
the other. Halfway between the
two, the long, imposing façade
is relieved by the twin towers of
the domed basilica. The interior
of the church is decorated in
contrasting colours of marble
and furnished with six early
The stunning library in the Palácio de Mafra, paved with chequered marble 19thcentury organs. Fine
Baroque sculptures, executed
1 Palácio de Mafra extravagant plans. No expense by members of the Mafra
was spared: 52,000 men were School of Sculpture, adorn the
Road Map B5. Terreiro de Dom João V,
employed and the finished atrium of the basilica. Begun by
Mafra. Tel 261 817 550. @ Ericeira
bus from Lisbon. q Campo Grande, project housed not 13, but 330 José I in 1754, many renowned
then @ Ericeira. Open 9:30am– friars, a royal palace and one of Portuguese and foreign artists
5:30pm Wed–Mon (last entry 4:30pm). the finest libraries in Europe, trained in the school under the
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 decorated with precious marble, directorship of the Italian
Dec. 5 & (free first Sun of month). exotic wood and countless sculptor Alessandro
8 ∑ palaciomafra.pt works of art. The magnificent Giusti (1715–99).
basilica was consecrated Further on, the
The massive Baroque palace and on the king’s 41st birth Sala da Caça has a
monastery (see pp56–7), which day, 22 October 1730, grotesque collection
dwarfs the small town of Mafra, with festivities lasting of hunting trophies
was built during the reign of for eight days. and boars’ heads.
Portugal’s most extravagant The palace was only Mafra’s greatest
monarch, João V. It began with a popular with those treasure, however, is
vow by the young king to build members of the royal its magnificent library,
a new monastery and basilica, family who enjoyed with a patterned
supposedly in return for an heir hunting deer and wild marble floor, Rococo
(but more likely, to atone for his boar. Today, a wolf style wooden
sexual excesses). Work began in conservation project runs bookcases, and a
1717 on a modest project to here. Most of the finest collection of over
house 13 Franciscan friars but, furniture and art works Statue of St Bruno in the 40,000 books in
as wealth began to pour into the were taken to Brazil when atrium of Mafra’s gold embossed
royal coffers from Brazil, the king the royal family escaped basilica leather bindings,
and his Italiantrained architect, the French invasion in including a prized
Johann Friedrich Ludwig (1670– 1807. The monastery was first edition of Os Lusíadas
1752), made ever more abandoned in 1834 following (1572) by the Portuguese poet
the dissolution of all Luís de Camões (see p50).
religious orders, and
the palace itself was Environs
abandoned in 1910, Once a week, on Thursday
when the last Portu mornings, the small country
guese king, Manuel II, town of Malveira, 10 km (6 miles)
escaped from here east of Mafra, has the region’s
to the Royal Yacht biggest market, selling clothes
anchored off Ericeira. and household goods as well
Allow at least an as food.
hour for the tour, At the village of Sobreiro,
which starts in 6 km (4 miles) west of Mafra,
the rooms of the Zé Franco’s model village is
monastery, through complete with houses, farms, a
the pharmacy, with waterfall and working windmill,
The king’s bedroom in the Royal Palace fine old medicine jars all in minute detail.
of classic Colares and growers

face a financial struggle to
survive. Their hardy old vines
grow in sandy soil, with their
roots set deep below in
clay; these were the only
vines in Europe to survive the
disastrous phylloxera epidemic
brought from America in the
late 19th century with the first
viticultural exchanges. The insect,
which destroyed vineyards
all over Europe by eating the
vines, could not penetrate
Tractor pulling a fishing boat out of the sea at Ericeira the dense sandy soil of the
Atlantic coast. Wine can be
2 Ericeira in the fishermen’s chapel sampled at the Adega Regional
Road Map B5. * 7,500. @
of Santo António above the de Colares on Alameda de
n Praça da República 17 (261 863 harbour records the event. Coronel Linhares de Lima.
122). ( Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May: The banished king settled
closed Mon. in Twickenham, southwest Environs
London, where he died in 1932. There are several popular beach
Ericeira is an old fishing village resorts west of Colares. Just
which keeps its traditions despite E Museu da Ericeira north of Praia das Maçãs is the
an ever-increasing influx of Largo da Misericórdia. Tel 261 862 picturesque village of Azenhas
summer visitors who enjoy 536. Open 10:30am–12:30pm, do Mar, clinging to the cliffs; just
the bracing climate, clean, 2:30–5pm Wed. & donation. to the south is the larger resort
sandy beaches and fresh of Praia Grande. Both have
seafood. In July and August, natural pools in the rocks, which
when the population leaps 3 Colares are filled by seawater at high
to 30,000, pavement cafés, Road Map B5. * 7,500. @
tide. The unspoilt Praia da Adraga,
restaurants and bars around the n Cabo da Roca (219 280 081). 1 km (half a mile) further south,
tree-lined Praça da República has a delightful beach café and
are buzzing late into the night. On the lower slopes of the restaurant. In the evenings
Red flags warn when swimming Serra de Sintra, this lovely and off-season, fishermen set up
is dangerous: alternative attrac- village faces the sea over a their lines to catch bass, bream
tions include crazy golf in Santa green valley, the Várzea de and flat fish that swim in on
Marta park and an interesting Colares. A leafy avenue winds the high tide. A tramway that
museum of local history, the its way up to the village. Small opened in 1910 links the district
Museu da Ericeira, exhibiting quantities of the famous of Estefânia, in Sintra, to the
models of traditional regional Colares wine are still made, Ribeira de Sintra; it then
boats and fishing equipment. but current vintages lack the continues on to Praia das Maçãs,
The unspoilt old town, a maze character and ageing potential which runs daily all year round.
of whitewashed houses and
narrow, cobbled streets, is
perched high above the ocean.
From Largo das Ribas, at the top
of a 30-m (100-ft) stone-faced
cliff, there is a bird’s-eye view
over the busy fishing harbour
below, where tractors have
replaced the oxen that once
hauled the boats out of reach
of the tide. On 16 August, the
annual fishermen’s festival is
celebrated with a candlelit
procession to the harbour at
the foot of the cliffs for the
blessing of the boats.
On 5 October 1910, Manuel II,
the last king of Portugal (see
pp58–9), sailed into exile from
Ericeira as the Republic was
declared in Lisbon; a tiled panel Natural rock pool at Azenhas do Mar, near Colares
4 Serra de Sintra Tour

This round trip from Sintra follows a dramatic route over the
top of the wooded Serra. The first part is a challenging drive
with hazardous hairpin bends on steep, narrow roads that
are at times poorly surfaced. It passes through dense forest
and a surreal landscape of giant moss-covered boulders,
with breathtaking views over the Atlantic coast, the Tagus
estuary and beyond. After dropping down to the rugged,
windswept coast, the route returns along small country Atlantic coastline seen from Peninha
roads passing through hill villages and large estates on
the cool, green northern slopes of the Serra de Sintra. 6 Colares
The village of Colares rests on the
lower slopes of the wooded Serra,
0 kilometres 2 Praia Praia surrounded by gardens and
0 miles 1 Grande das Maçàs vineyards (see p159).
Janas
Rib
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Co
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Praia da
Adraga
Almoçageme
Penedo
Casas Novas
J
Pé da Serra
tra
J
Sin
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a
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Se
J
Azóia
J
Cascais
4 Peninha
This 490-m (1,600-ft) high peak affords stunning
views towards the coast. A 17th-century chapel
decorated with azulejo panels is perched high
on the grey rocks.
5 Cabo da Roca
A lighthouse at the top
of an impressive cliff, Key
140 m (459 ft) high, Tour route
marks the most
westerly point of the Other roads
European mainland. Viewpoint

Tips for Drivers

Length: 36 km (22 miles).
Stopping-off points: At Cabo
da Roca you will find a café,
restaurant, tourist office and
souvenir shops; at Colares there
are several delightful restaurants
8 Seteais and bars. Due to fire risks,
The elegant palace, now a luxury picnicking is not allowed in the
hotel and restaurant (see p388 & Sintra woods and Parque da Pena.
p403), was built in the 18th
century for the Dutch Consul, Palace of Monserrate
Daniel Gildemeester.
2 Sintra
From the centre of the old
5 Monserrate
7 Monserrate town the road winds steeply Road map: B5. Estrada de Monserrate.
The cool forest park and elaborate upwards past magnificent Tel 219 237 300. £ to Sintra then bus
19th-century palace epitomize the quintas (country estates) 435 or taxi. Open Palace: 9:30am–8pm
romanticism of Sintra. hidden among the trees. daily (29 Oct–25 Mar: 10am–6pm);
gardens: 9:30am–8pm daily (29 Oct–
Ericeira 25 Mar: 10am–6pm). Last adm: 1 hr
Mafra before closing time. Closed 1 Jan,
25 Dec. & ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
The wild, romantic garden of

this estate is a jungle of exotic
trees and flowering shrubs.
Among the subtropical foliage
and valley of tree ferns are
a water fall, a small lake and a
Castelo dos
Mouros chapel, built as a ruin, tangled
Palácio in the roots of a giant Ficus
da Pena tree. Its history dates back to
J the Moors, but it takes its name
ra
nt
from a small 16th-century

Si
chapel dedicated to Our Lady

de
rra
C ruz Al ta of Montserrat in Catalonia,

Se
Lisbon Spain. The gardens were land-

scaped in the late 18th century
by a wealthy young Englishman,
Estoril William Beckford. They were later
Cascais immortalized by Lord Byron in
Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage (1812).
In 1856, the abandoned
estate was bought by another
Englishman, Sir Francis Cook,
who built a fantastic Moorish-
1 Parque da Pena style palace and transformed
This huge, exotic park can be the gardens with a large
explored on foot (see p163). Along sweeping lawn, camellias and
with the palace, it is one of the subtropical trees from all over
best examples of 19th-century
the world. These include the
romanticism in Portugal.
giant Metrosideros (Australian
Christmas tree, covered in a
blaze of red flowers in July);
the native Arbutus (known
3 Convento dos Capuchos
as the strawberry tree because
Two huge boulders guard
the entrance to this remote
ofs its juicy red berries), from
Franciscan monastery, which the medronho firewater
founded in 1560, where the drink is distilled; cork oak, with
monks lived in tiny rock- small ferns growing on its bark,
hewn cells lined with cork. and Chinese weeping cyprus.
There are stunning views of The house and gardens have
the coast from the hill above now been restored to their
this austere, rocky hideaway. former glory.
6 Sintra The many fountains around the

town are used by locals for their
Sintra’s stunning setting on the north slopes of the granite fresh spring drinking water. Two
Serra, among wooded ravines and fresh water springs, made of the most striking are the tiled
it a favourite summer retreat for the kings of Portugal. The tall Fonte Mourisca (Arab Fountain),
conical chimneys of the Palácio Nacional de Sintra (see pp164–5) named for its Neo-Moorish
decoration, and Fonte da Sabuga,
and the Palácio da Pena (see pp166–7) are landmarks, and eerily
where the water spouts from a
impressive on its peak when the Serra is blanketed in mist. pair of breasts.
Today, the town (recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage
cultural landscape in 1995) draws thousands of visitors all E Centro Cultural Olga
through the year. Even so, there are many quiet walks in the Cadaval
Praça Dr Francisco Sá Carneiro. Tel 219
wooded hills around the town, especially beautiful in the
107 118. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, &
long, cool evenings of the summer months. 1 hour before performances. Closed
public hols. ∑ ccolgacadaval.pt
Named after the aristocratic
Exploring Sintra lady and dedicated patron of
Present-day Sintra is in three arts who once lived here, the
parts, Sintra Vila, Estefânia Centro Cultural Olga Cadaval
and São Pedro, joined by a is a major venue for music, film,
confusing maze of winding theatre and dance performances
roads scattered over the held throughout the year. The
surrounding hills. In the pretty building itself dates back to
cobbled streets of the old World War II and was carefully
town, Sintra Vila, which is restored after a fire destroyed
centred on the Palácio Nacional a large part of it in 1985.
de Sintra, are the museums Fonte Mourisca on Volta do Duche Every year in May and June,
and beautifully tiled post office. it becomes one of the hubs
The curving Volta do Duche Exploring Sintra on foot involves of the region’s annual cultural
leads from the old town, past a lot of walking and climbing showcase, the Sintra Festival,
the lush Parque da Liberdade, up and down its steep hills. which Olga Cadaval herself
north to the Estefânia district For a more leisurely tour, take founded over fifty years ago.
and the striking Neo-Gothic one of the horse and carriage
Câmara Municipal (town hall). rides around the town. The E Museu das Artes de Sintra
To the south and east, the hilly Miradouro da Vigia in São Av Heliodoro Salgado. Tel 219
village of São Pedro spreads Pedro offers impressive views, 107 110. Open 10am–8pm Tue–Fri,
over the slopes of the Serra. as does the cosy Casa de Sapa 2–8pm Sat & Sun.
The fortnightly Sunday market café, where you can also This arts centre features an
here extends across the broad sample queijadas, the local interesting permanent collection
market square. sweet speciality. and several rare landscapes of
Sintra dating from the mid-18th
century. It is located in the old
Casino de Sintra building, a place
full of local history, with an
ornate façade dating from 1924.
P Quinta da Regaleira
Rua Barbosa du Bocage. Tel 219 106
650. @ 405. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–
8pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–6pm; (last
adm: 1 hour before closing). Closed
24 & 25 Dec. 8 call to book. & 0
- ∑ regaleira.pt
Built between 1904 and 1910,

this palace and its extensive
gardens are a feast of historical
and religious references, occult
symbols and mystery. The
obsession of the eccentric
millionaire António Augusto
Carvalho Monteiro, they are a
must for anyone interested
Chimneys of the Palácio Nacional de Sintra above the old town in esoterica.
SINTRA  163
+ Castelo dos Mouros A steep footpath threads up VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Estrada da Pena. Tel 219 237 300. @ through wooded slopes from the
434. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 12th-century church of Santa Practical Information
Standing above the old town, the Maria. Follow the signs to a dark Road map: B5. * 25,000.
ramparts of the 10th-century green swing gate where the n Praça da República 23 (219
Moorish castle, conquered by footpath begins. The monogram 231 157); train station (211 932
Afonso Henriques in 1147, snake “DFII” carved on the gateway is 545). ( 2nd & 4th Sun of month.
_ May–Jun: Festival de Sintra.
over the top of the Serra. On a a reminder that the castle walls
fine day, there are breathtaking were restored by Fernando II Transport
views from the castle walls over (see p167) in the 19th century. £ @ Avda Dr Miguel
the old town to Palácio da Pena, Bombarda.
on a neighbouring peak, and far Y Parque da Pena
along the coast. Outside the Estrada da Pena. Tel 219 237 300. @
walls, a former church (the first 434. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. wind among a lush vegetation
Christian church in Sintra) now 7 ∑ parquesdesintra.pt of exotic trees and shrubs.
houses an interpretation centre In the huge park surrounding Hidden among the foliage are
on the history of the castle. the Palácio da Pena, footpaths gazebos, follies and fountains,
and a Romantic chalet built by
Fernando II for his second wife,
the Countess of Edla, in 1869.
Cruz Alta, the highest point
of the Serra at 529 m (1,736 ft),
commands spectacular views.
On a nearby crag stands a
statue thought to represent
the king, dressed in medieval
military garb, admiring his
life’s work.
COLARES
Battlements of the Castelo dos Mouros perched on the slopes of the Serra ERICEIRA
Centro Cultural
O. Cadaval
TAN A Museu das
R U A CÂ M A R A PES
Sintra Town Centre Artes de Sintra
1 Museu das Artes de Sintra ESTEFÂNIA LG

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São Pedro

Palácio Nacional de Sintra

At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila), a pair
of unusual conical chimneys rises high above the Royal
Palace. The main part of the palace, including the central
block with its plain Gothic façade and the large kitchens
beneath the chimneys, was built by João I in the late
14th century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became the
favourite summer retreat for the court, and continued . Sala das Pegas
as a residence for Portuguese royalty until the 1880s. The ceiling shows 136 magpies (pegas)
Additions to the building by the wealthy Manuel I, in holding ribbons with João I’s motto Por
bem (for good) and roses to signify the
the early 16th century, echo the Moorish style. Gradual House of Lancaster, to
rebuilding of the palace has resulted in a fascinating which Queen Filipa
amalgamation of various different styles. belonged.
. Sala dos Brasões

The domed ceiling of this
majestic room is decorated with
stags holding the coats of arms
(brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese
families. The lower walls are
lined with 18th-century Delft-
like tiled panels.
KEY
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled
garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastião,
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons)
4 The Torre dos Brasões has
dovecotes below the cornice
decorated with armillary spheres
and nautical rope.
5 The Sala dos Árabes is
decorated with fine azulejos.
6 The kitchens, beneath the
huge conical chimneys, have
spits and utensils once used for
preparing royal banquets.
7 Sala dos Archeiros, the Chapel
entrance hall Symmetrical Moorish
8 Manuel I added the ajimene patterns decorate the
windows, a distinctive Moorish original 15th-century
design with a slender column chestnut and oak ceiling
dividing two arches. and the mosaic floor of
the private chapel.
SINTRA  165
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219 237 300.
∑ parquesdesintra.pt
Open 9:30am–6pm daily
(29 Mar–24 Oct: to 7pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8&
. Sala dos Cisnes

The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting hall, painted in
the 16th century, is divided into octagonal panels decorated with
swans (cisnes).
Sala das Sereias
Intricate Arabesque
designs on16th-century
tiles frame this door in
the Room of the Sirens.
Chapel
Entrance
10th century 1495–1521 Reign of 1683 Afonso VI 1755 Parts of

First reference 1281 King Dinis orders Manuel I; major dies after being palace dam-
to the palace, restoration of palace; restoration and imprisoned here aged in great
as residence of work is carried out by Manueline additions for nine years by earthquake
Moorish governor Moors living in Colares brother Pedro II (see pp66–7)
800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800
1147 Christian reconquest; 1385 João I orders 1880s Maria Pia (grand-
Afonso Henriques takes complete rebuilding mother of Manuel II)
over palace of central buildings is last royal resident
and kitchens
8th century Start of Moorish 1910 Palace becomes a
occupation of the region national monument
Siren, Sala das Sereias (c.1660)
Sintra: Palácio da Pena

On the highest peaks of the Serra de Sintra stands the spectacular
palace of Pena, an eclectic medley of architectural styles built in
the 19th century by the husband of the young Queen Maria II,
Ferdinand Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, who personally designed many
of its elements. It stands over the ruins of a Hieronymite monastery
founded here in the 16th century on the site of the chapel of Nossa
Senhora da Pena. Ferdinand appointed a German architect, Baron
von Eschwege, to build his summer palace filled with oddities from
all over the world and surrounded by a park. With the declaration Entrance Arch
A studded archway with
of the Republic in 1910, the palace became a museum, preserved
crenellated turrets greets
as it was when the royal family lived here. Allow at least an hour the visitor at the entrance
and a half to visit this enchanting place. to the palace. The palace
buildings are painted the
Manuel II’s Bedroom original daffodil yellow and
The oval-shaped strawberry pink.
room is decorated
with green walls
and stuccoed
ceiling. A
portrait of
Manuel II,
the last king
of Portugal,
hangs above
the fireplace.
. Hall
The spacious hall is sumptuously
furnished with German stained-glass
windows, precious Oriental porcelain
and four life-size turbaned torch-
bearers holding giant candelabra.
KEY
1 In the kitchen, the copper pots

and utensils still hang around the
iron stove. The dinner service bears
the coat of arms of Ferdinand II.
2 The Triton Arch is encrusted with
Neo-Manueline decoration and is
guarded by a fierce sea monster.
3 The cloister, decorated with
colourful patterned tiles, is part of
the original monastery buildings.
SINTRA  167
. Arab Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Marvellous trompe-l’oeil
frescoes cover the walls Practical Information
and ceiling of the Arab Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 mile)
Room, one of the loveliest S of Sintra. Tel 219 237 300.
in the palace. The Orient ∑ parquesdesintra.pt
was a great inspiration to Open 9:30am–7pm daily
Romanticism. (25 Oct–28 Mar: 10am–6pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Transport
@ 434 from Avenida Dr Miguel
Bombarda, Sintra.
. Chapel Altarpiece
The impressive 16th-
century alabaster and
marble retable was
sculpted by Nicolau
Chanterène. Each niche
portrays a scene of
the life of Christ,
from the manger to
the Ascension.
Ferdinand: King Consort

Ferdinand was known in Portugal as Dom
Fernando II, the “artist” king. Like his cousin
Prince Albert, who married the English
Queen Victoria, he loved art, nature and
the new inventions of the time. He was
himself a watercolour painter. Ferdinand
enthusiastically adopted his new country
and devoted his life to patronizing the arts.
In 1869, 16 years after the death of Maria II,
Ferdinand married an opera singer, Elise, Countess
Entrance of Edla. His lifelong dream of building the extravagant palace at Pena
was completed in 1885, the year he died.
quay for the landing and Environs

initial auctioning of the At Boca do Inferno (Mouth of
fishermen’s catch. But Cascais Hell) about 3 km (2 miles) west
today is first of all a favoured on the coast road, the sea rushes
suburb of Lisbon, a place of into clefts and caves in the rocks
apartments with a sea view making a booming sound and
and pine-studded plots by sending up spectacular spray.
golf courses. It may sometimes The magnificent sandy beach
seem more defined by its of Guincho, located 10 km
ceaseless construction boom (6 miles) further west, has
than by any historic or even Atlantic breakers that make
touristic qualities, but the this a paradise for experienced
beautiful, windswept coastline windsurfers and surfers, though
beyond the town has been left beware of the strong currents.
relatively undeveloped. The Casa das Histórias Paula
Outdoor café in the popular holiday resort The Museu do Conde de Rego is a museum dedicated
of Cascais Castro Guimaraes is perhaps to the work of the painter,
the best place to get a taste of illustrator and printmaker.
7 Cascais Cascais as it was just over a
century ago. A castle-like villa E Casa das Histórias Paula Rego
Road map B5. * 33,000. £ @
n Largo Cidade Vitória (912 034 214).
on a small creek by a headland, Avenida da República 300, Cascais.
( Wed & Sat. its grounds are today part of a Tel 214 826 970. Open 10am–6pm
park. The house and its contents Tue–Sun (Apr–Oct: to 7pm). &
Having been a holiday resort were bequeathed to
for well over a century, the municipality.
Cascais possesses a certain Across the road
illustriousness that younger from the museum
resorts lack. Its history is most is the marina, one
clearly visible in the villas along of the most
the coast, built as summer emblematic
residences by wealthy Lisboetas developments in
during the late 19th century, Cascais. With its
after King Luís I had moved small shopping
his summer activities to the centre, restaurants Spectacular view of the weather-beaten coastline at Boca do
17th-century fortress here. and cafés it is Inferno, near Cascais
The military importance of becoming a
Cascais, now waned, is much weekend magnet for today’s
older as it sits on the north bank car-borne Cascais residents 8 Estoril
of the mouth of the Tagus. and tourists. Road map B5. * 24,000. £ @
The sandy, sheltered bay n Largo Cidade Vitória, Cascais (912
around which the modern E Museu do Conde de Castro 034 214).
suburb has sprawled was a Guimarães
fishing harbour in prehistoric Avenida Rei Humberto II de Itália. Despite once being the haunt
times. Fishing still goes on, and Tel 214 815 308. Open 10am–5pm of exiled royalty and nobility
it was given a municipal boost Tue–Sun (excl 1–2pm Sat & Sun). fleeing European republican-
with the decision to build a & Closed public hols. ism, the lovely resort town of
Estoril is a thriving place.
Today, it is a tourist and business
resort, and a place for comfort-
able retirement. As such, it
relies equally on its historical
reputation and on the natural
attractiveness it has always
possessed. There are also a
number of good golf courses.
What separates Estoril from
Cascais, besides a pleasant beach
promenade of 3 km (2 miles)
and a mansion-covered ridge
known as Monte Estoril, is its
sense of place. The heart of
Estoril is immediately accessible
from the train station. On one
Sandy beach and promenade along the bay of Estoril side of the tracks, the riviera-like
beach, on the other, a palm-lined w Cabo Espichel

park flanked by grand buildings,
Road map B5. @ from Sesimbra.
stretches up past fountains to
what is said to be Europe’s Sheer cliffs drop straight into
biggest casino. Dwarfing the the sea at this windswept
casino is the Estoril Congress promontory where the land
Centre, a vast multipurpose ends dramatically. The Romans
edifice that speaks confidently named it Promontorium
of Estoril’s contemporary role. Barbaricum, alluding to its
Pilgrims’ lodgings, Cabo Espichel dangerous location, and a
lighthouse warns sailors of
q Costa da the treacherous rocks below.
9 Palácio de Queluz Stunning views of the ocean
Caparica and the coast can be enjoyed
See pp170–71.
Road map B5. * 12,000. £ to from this bleak outcrop of land
Pragal, then 194 bus. n Frente but beware of the strong gusts
0 Alcochete Urbana de Praias (212 900 071). of wind on the cliff edge.
In this desolate setting stands
Road map C5. * 9,000. @
n Largo da Misericórdia (212 348 655).
Long sandy beaches, backed the impressive Santuário de
by sand dunes, have made this Nossa Senhora do Cabo, a
This delightful old town a popular holiday resort for late 17th-century church with
overlooks the wide Tagus estuary Lisboetas who come here to its back to the sea. On either
from the southern shore. Salt has swim, sunbathe and enjoy the side of the church a long line
long been one of the main seafood restaurants and of pilgrims’ lodgings facing
industries here, and saltpans can beach cafés. A railway, inwards form an open
still be seen to the north and with open carriages, courtyard. Baroque paintings,
south of the town, while in runs for 10 km (6 miles) ex votos and a frescoed ceiling
the town centre a large statue along the coast during decorate the interior of the
of a muscular salt worker has the summer church. A domed chapel, tiled
the inscription: “Do Sal a months. The first with blue and white azulejo
Revolta e a Esperança” (From beaches reached from panels, is located nearby.
Salt to Rebellion and Hope). the town are popular The site became a popular
On the outskirts of town, is a with families with place of pilgrimage in the
statue of Manuel I (see children, while the 13th century when a local
pp50–51), who was furthest beaches man had a vision of the
born here on suit those seeking Madonna rising from the sea
1 June 1469 quiet isolation. on a mule. Legend has it that
and granted Further south, the tracks of the mule can be
the town a Statue of a salt worker in sheltered by pine seen embedded in the rock.
Royal Charter in 1515. Alcochete (1985) forests, Lagoa de The large footprints, on Praia
Albufeira offers a dos Lagosteiros below the
Environs peaceful windsurfing centre church, are actually believed to
The Reserva Natural do and camp site. be fossilized dinosaur tracks.
Estuário do Tejo covers a vast
area of estuary water, salt
marshes and small islands
around Alcochete and is a very
important breeding ground
for water birds. Particularly
interesting are the flocks of
flamingos that gather here
during the autumn and spring
migration, en route from colo-
nies such as the Camargue in
France and Fuente de Piedra in
Spain. Ask at the tourist office
about boat trips to see the
wildlife of the estuary, which
includes wild bulls and horses.
O Reserva Natural do Estuário

do Tejo
Avenida dos Combatentes da Grande
Guerra 1. Tel 212 348 021. The façade of Câmara Municipal de Alcochete, the town hall of Alcochete
9 Palácio de Queluz
In 1747, Pedro, younger son of João V, commissioned
Mateus Vicente to transform his 17th-century hunting
lodge into a Rococo summer palace. The central section,
which includes a music room and chapel, was built
and the palace was further extended after Pedro’s
marriage to the future Maria I, in 1760. French architect
Jean-Baptiste Robillion then added the sumptuous
Corridor of the Tiles
Robillion Pavilion and gardens, cleared space for the Painted azulejo panels (1784)
Throne Room and redesigned the Music Room. During representing the continents and the
Maria’s reign, the royal family kept a menagerie and seasons, as well as hunting scenes,
went boating on the azulejo-lined canal. line the walls of this bright corridor.
. Sala dos Embaixadores

Built by Robillion, this stately
room was used for diplomatic
audiences as well as concerts.
The trompe l’oeil ceiling
shows the royal family
attending a concert.
KEY
To canal
1 The Robillion Pavilion displays
the flamboyance of the French
architect’s Rococo style.
2 Shell Waterfall
3 The Lion Staircase is an
impressive and graceful link from
the lower gardens to the palace.
4 Neptune’s Fountain
Don Quixote Chamber
5 The royal family’s living rooms The royal bedroom,
and bedrooms opened out onto the where Pedro IV (see p58)
Malta Gardens. was born and died, has
6 Chapel a domed ceiling and
magnificent floor
7 Malta Gardens
decoration in exotic
8 The Hanging Gardens, woods, giving the
designed by Robillion, were built square room a circular
over arches, raising the ground in appearance. Painted
front of the palace above the scenes by Manuel de
surrounding gardens. Costa (1784) tell the
story of Don Quixote.
Music Room
Operas and
concerts were
performed here by
Road Map B5. Largo do
Maria I’s orchestra,
Palácio. Tel 214 343 860.
“the best in Europe”
Open 9am–5:30pm daily
according to
(late Mar–Oct: to 7pm).
English traveller
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
William Beckford.
&7-0
A portrait of the
queen hangs above Transport
the forte piano. £ Queluz–Belas or Queluz–
Massama. @ from Lisbon
(Colégio Militar).
. Throne Room
The elegant state room
(1770) was the scene of
splendid balls and
banquets. The gilded
statues of Atlas
are by Silvestre
Faria Lobo.
Entrance
Maria I (1734–1816)
Maria, the eldest daughter of José I,
lived at the palace in Queluz after
her marriage to her uncle, Pedro,
in 1760. Serious and devout, she
conscientiously filled her role as
queen, but suffered increasingly
from bouts of melancholia. When
her son José died from smallpox
in 1788, she went hopelessly mad.
Visitors to Queluz were dismayed . Palace Gardens
by her agonizing shrieks as she The formal gardens, adorned with statues,
suffered visions and hallucinations. After fountains and topiary, were often used
the French invasion of 1807, her younger son João for entertaining. Concerts performed in
(declared regent in 1792) took his mad mother to Brazil. the Music Room would spill out into the
Malta Gardens.
e Sesimbra
Road map C5. * 42,000. @
n Rua da Fortaleza de Santiago (212
288 540). ( 2nd & 4th Sat of month.
A steep narrow road leads down

to this busy fishing village in
a sheltered south-facing bay.
Protected from north winds
by the slopes of the Serra da
Arrábida, the town has become
a popular holiday resort with
Lisboetas. It was occupied by
the Romans and later the Moors
until King Sancho II (see pp46–7)
conquered its heavily defended
forts in 1236. The old town is a Colourful fishing boats in the harbour at Sesimbra
maze of steep narrow streets,
with the Santiago Fort (now a promenade that follows the r Palmela
customs post) in the centre over- beach out of town. On the large Road map C5. * 57,000. @ £
looking the sea. From the terrace, trawlers (traineiras), the catch is n Castelo de Palmela (212 332 122).
which is open to the public mainly sardines, sea bream,
during the day, there are views whiting and swordfish; on the The formidable castle at Palmela
over the town, the Atlantic and smaller boats, octopus and stands over the small hill town,
the wide sandy beach that squid. In the late afternoon, high on a northeastern spur of
stretches out on either side. when the fishing boats return the wooded Serra da Arrábida.
Sesimbra is fast developing as from a day at sea, a colourful, Its strategic position dominates
a resort, with holiday flats mush- noisy fish auction takes place on the plain for miles around,
rooming on the surrounding the quayside. The day’s catch can especially when floodlit at night.
hillsides and plentiful pave- be tasted in the town’s excellent Heavily defended by the Moors,
ment cafés and bars that are fish restaurants along the shore. it was eventually conquered in
always busy on sunny days, High above the town is the the 12th century and given by
even in winter. Moorish castle, greatly restored Sancho I to the Knights of the
The fishing fleet of brightly in the 18th century when a Order of Santiago (see p49).
painted boats is moored in the church and small flower-filled In 1423, João I transformed
Porto do Abrigo to the west cemetery were added inside the castle into a monastery
of the main town. The harbour the walls. There are wonderful for the Order, which has been
is reached by taking Avenida views from the ramparts, restored and converted into a
dos Náufragos, a sweeping especially at sunset. splendid pousada (see p388),
with a restaurant in the monks’
refectory and a swimming pool
for residents, hidden inside the
castle walls.
From the castle terraces, and
especially from the top of the
14th-century keep, there are
fantastic views all around, over
the Serra da Arrábida to the
south and on a clear day across
the Tagus to Lisbon. In the town
square below, the church of
São Pedro contains 8th-century
tiles of scenes from the life of
St Peter.
The annual wine festival, the
Festa das Vindimas, is held on
the first weekend of September
in front of the 17th-century
Paços do Concelho (town hall).
Traditionally dressed villagers
press the wine barefoot and on
the final day of celebrations
there is a spectacular firework
The castle at Palmela with views over the wooded Serra da Arrábida display from the castle walls.
t Serra da Arrábida
Road map C5. @ Setúbal.
n Parque Natural da Arrábida, Praça
da República, Setúbal (265 541 140).
The Parque Natural da Arrábida

covers the small range of
limestone mountains which
stretches east-west along the
coast between Sesimbra and
Setúbal. It was established to
protect the wild, beautiful
landscape and rich variety of
birds and wildlife, including
eagles, wildcats and badgers.
The name Arrábida is from
Arabic meaning a place of
prayer, and the wooded hill-
sides are indeed a peaceful,
secluded retreat. The sheltered,
south-facing slopes are thickly
covered with aromatic and
evergreen shrubs and trees
such as pine and cypress, more Portinho da Arrábida on the dramatic coastline of the Serra da Arrábida
typical of the Mediterranean.
Vineyards also thrive on the drops to the sea in the sheer probably used for meditation.
sheltered slopes and the town 380-m (1,250-ft) cliffs of Risco, Today, the building houses a
of Vila Nogueira de Azeitão is the highest in mainland Portugal. cultural centre.
known for its wine, especially
the Moscatel de Setúbal. R Convento da Arrábida E Museu Oceanográfico
The Estrada de Escarpa (the Serra da Arrábida. Tel 212 197 620. Fortaleza de Santa Maria, Portinho
N379-1) snakes across the top of 8 by appt only on Wed, Sat & Sun. da Arrábida. Tel 265 009 982.
the ridge and affords astounding Closed Aug. & Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 3–6pm Sat.
views. A narrow road winds Half-hidden among the trees Closed public hols. &
down to Portinho da Arrábida, a of the Serra, this 16th-century This small fort, just above
sheltered cove with a beach of building was once a Franciscan Portinho da Arrábida, was built
fine white sand and crystal clear monastery. The five round by Pedro, the Prince Regent,
sea, popular with underwater towers on the hillside were in 1676 to protect local
fishermen. The sandy beaches communities from attacks by
of Galapos and Figueirinha are a Moorish pirates. It now houses
Lisbon a Sea Museum and Marine
little further east along the
coast road towards Setúbal. Biology Centre where visitors
Palmela
Just east of Sesimbra, the can see aquaria containing
Serra da Arrábida many local sea creatures,
including sea urchins,
octopus and starfish.
Lisbon Vila
Fresca de
Azeitão  José Maria da Fonseca
Rua José Augusto Coelho 11,
Vila Nogueira Setúbal Vila Nogueira de Azeitão. Tel 212
de Azeitão
197 500. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–7pm;
Nov–Mar: 10am–noon & 2:30–5:30pm
daily. Closed 1 & 2 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec.
&8=
Convento da Figueirinha
Arrábida
The Fonseca winery produces
Galapos
J quality table wines and is famous
Portinho da for its fragrant dessert wine, Mos-
Santana Arrábida catel de Setúbal (see p33). Tours of
the winery explain the process
Sesimbra Key of making moscatel and feature a
al
úb visit to a series of old cellars con-
Set Major road
Baía de taining huge oak and chestnut
0 kilometres 5 Minor road vats. Tours last about 45 minutes
0 miles 3 Other road and include a wine tasting.
the lofty interior is adorned with

twisted columns, carved in
three strands from pinkish
Arrábida limestone, and rope-
like stone ribs decorating the
roof, recognized as the earliest
examples of the distinctive
Manueline style (see pp28–9).
On Rua do Balneário, in
the old monastic quarters, a
museum houses 14 remarkable
paintings of the life of Christ.
The works are attributed to
the followers of Jorge Afonso
(1520–30), influenced by the
Flemish school.
E Museu de Arqueologia
e Etnografia
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239
365. Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols.
The archaeological museum
displays a wealth of finds from
digs around Setúbal, including
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins
and amphorae made to carry
wine and garum, a sauce made
from fish marinated in salt and
herbs. The ethnography display
shows local arts, crafts and
Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal industries, including the
processing of salt and cork
y Setúbal here. Rectangular tanks, carved over the centuries.
from stone, can be seen under
Road map C5. * 119,000. £ @
the glass floor of the Regional + Castelo de São Filipe
g n Casa da Baía, Avenida Luísa
Todi 468 (265 545 010 or 915 174 442). Tourist Office at No. 10 Travessa Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 545 010.
Frei Gaspar. Open 10am–midnight Tue–Sun.
Although this is an important The star-shaped fort was built
industrial town, and the third- R Igreja de Jesus in 1595 by Philip II of Spain
largest port in Portugal (after Largo de Jesus. Tel 913 873 015. during the period of Spanish
Lisbon and Porto), Setúbal can Open 9:30am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue– rule (see pp54–5) to keep a wary
be used to explore the area. To Sat. 7 Museum: Tel 913 873 015. eye on pirates, English invaders
the south of the central gardens Open Tue–Sun. Closed public and the local population.
and fountains are the fishing har- hols. & A massive gateway and stone
bour, marina and ferry port, and To the north of the old town, tunnel lead to the sheltered
a lively covered market. North of this striking Gothic church is interior, which houses a bar,
the gardens is the old town, with one of Setúbal’s architectural lounge area as well as the
attractive pedestrian streets and treasures. Designed by the original chapel. A broad terrace
squares full of shops and cafés. architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, offers marvellous views over
The 16th-century cathedral, the city and the
dedicated to Santa Maria da Sado estuary.
Graça, has glorious tiled panels
dating from the 18th century, Environs
and gilded altar decoration. Setúbal is an
Street names commemorate excellent starting
two famous Setúbal residents: point for a tour by
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage car of the unspoilt
(1765–1805), whose satirical Reserva Natural do
poetry landed him in prison, Estuário do Sado, a
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), vast stretch of mud
a celebrated opera singer. In flats, shallow lagoons
Roman times, fish-salting was Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the Reserva and salt marshes
the most important industry Natural do Estuário do Sado with patches of pine
forest, which has been explored

and inhabited since 3500 BC.
Otters, water birds (including
storks and herons), oysters and a
great variety of fish are found in
the reserve. The old tidal water
mill at Mouriscas, 5 km (3 miles)
to the east of Setúbal, uses the
different levels of the tide to
turn the grinding stones. Rice-
growing and fishing are the
main occupations today, and
pine trees around the lagoon
are tapped for resin.
O Reserva Natural do Estuário

do Sado
n Praça da República, Setúbal View over Alcácer do Sal and the River Sado from the castle
(265 541 140).
flats are reached by walkways here, and the castle later became
raised on stilts. From here to a stronghold for the Romans.
Alcácer do Sal, great stretches Rebuilt by the Moors, it was finally
of pine forest line the road, conquered by Afonso II in 1217.
and there are the first glimpses The restored buildings have
of the cork oak countryside taken on a new life as a pousada
typical of the Alentejo. (see p387), with sweeping views
over the rooftops and untidy
T Cetóbriga storks’ nests. Also here is the
N253-1. Tel 265 499 413. Open Jun–Sep: Cripta Arqueológica do
10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Wed–Sun.. & Castelo, an archaeological
A boardwalk crosses the sand dunes to museum holding locally
the beach of Tróia excavated items. The collections
i Alcácer do Sal include artifacts from the Iron
u Península de Age, as well as from the Roman,
Road map C6. * 14,000. £ @
Moorish and medieval periods.
Tróia n Largo Luís de Camões (265 009
987). ( 1st Sat of month. There are pleasant cafés
Road map C5. @ g Tróia. n Tróia along the riverside promenade
Resort (265 499 400/421). Bypassed by the main road, the and several historic churches.
ancient town of Alcácer do Sal The bullring is a focus for
High-rise holiday apartments (al-kasr from the Arabic for castle, summer events and hosts the
dominate the tip of the Tróia and do sal from its trade in salt) agricultural fair in October.
peninsula, easily accessible from sits peacefully on the north bank
Setúbal by ferry. The Atlantic of the River Sado. The imposing E Cripta Arqueológica do Castelo
coast, stretching south for 18 km castle was a hillfort as early as the Castelo de Alcácer, Piso Inferior
(11 miles) of untouched sandy 6th century BC. The Phoenicians Pousada Dom Afonso II. Tel 265 612
beach, lined with dunes and established an inland trading port 058. Open Tue–Sun. 7 8
pine woods, is now the haunt
of sun-seekers in the summer.
Near Tróia, in the sheltered
Birds of the Tagus and
lagoon, the Roman town of Sado Estuaries
Cetóbriga was the site of a Many water birds, including black-
thriving fish-salting trade, winged stilts, avocets, Kentish plovers
established in the 3rd century. and pratincoles are found close to
The stone tanks and ruined areas of open water and mud flats
buildings, which are signposted as well as the dried out lagoons of
as Ruinas Romanas, are open to the Tagus and Sado estuaries. Reed-
visit. To the south, smart holiday beds also provide shelter for nesting
villas and golf clubs are and support good numbers of little
springing up along the lagoon. bitterns, purple herons and marsh
Further on, Carrasqueira is an harriers. From September to March,
old fishing community where the area around the Tagus estuary
you can still see traditional reed is extremely important for wildfowl Black-winged stilt, a wader that
houses. The narrow fishing and wintering waders. feeds in the estuaries
boats moored along the mud
ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO
Between the Tagus and the coast lies Estremadura, an area
of rolling hills that tumble down to rugged cliffs and sandy
beaches. In contrast, the Ribatejo is a vast alluvial plain
stretching along the banks of the Tagus. Portugal’s finest
medieval monasteries here bear witness to the illustrious,
if turbulent, past of these regions.
The name Estremadura comes from the Nowadays, Estremadura is an area of

Latin Extrema Durii, “beyond the Douro”, expanding commerce, where vineyards,
once the border of the Christian kingdoms wheatfields and market gardens flourish.
in the north. As Portugal expanded In the Ribatejo (the name means “Banks
southwards in the 12th century, land taken of the Tagus”) the river’s vast flood plain
from the Moors (see pp46–7) was given to provides fertile soil for agriculture and
the religious orders. The Cistercian abbey grazing land for Portugal’s prized black
at Alcobaça celebrates Afonso Henriques’s fighting bulls and fine horses.
capture of the town of Santarém in 1147, The area around Tomar and the river
and the Knights Templar began their towns along the Tagus have thriving
citadel at Tomar (see p191) soon after. industries, while on the River Zêzere, the
Spanish claims to the Portuguese throne dam built at Castelo de Bode in the 1940s
brought more fighting: Batalha’s magni heralded a new era of hydroelectric power.
ficent abbey was built near the site of The Atlantic coast is a popular holiday
João I’s victory over the Castilians at destination, especially the fishing village of
Aljubarrota in 1385. In 1808–10, Nazaré and the sandy beaches along the
Napoleonic forces sacked many towns Pinhal de Leiria forest. Visitors also flock to
in the region, but were stopped by Portugal’s most important religious shrine
Wellington’s formidable defences, the at Fátima, the scene of celebrated visions
Lines of Torres Vedras. of the Virgin Mary in 1917.
The pentagonal Forte de São João Baptista, located on the Berlenga Islands (see p180)
Capelas Imperfeitas, in the monastery of Santa Maria da Victória, Batalha
Exploring Estremadura and the Ribatejo

Figueira
The impressive monuments in Estremadura recall the important da Foz
role the region has played in Portugal’s history. Tomar and Óbidos
are convenient bases from which to visit the great abbeys at
Batalha and Alcobaça or the modern shrine at Fátima. Leiria’s Guia
charming old town is also a good place to stay and it is possible Monte
to make day trips from Lisbon. Those in search of more leisurely Redondo
pursuits can enjoy boating on the Castelo de Bode lake or Rio Lis
relaxing on the coast’s stunning beaches. The fertile Lezíria Vieira

Monte
ia
plain of the Ribatejo is an area famous for bull- and Real
ir
horse-breeding. Here visitors can enjoy lively local festivals
Le
at Santarém, the Ribatejo’s lively capital. São Pedro
de
de Muel
N
Marinha Grande LEIRIA
EA
LEIRIA
hal
Sights at a Glance
OC
Pin
1 Berlenga Islands i Alpiarça
2 Peniche o Santarém BATALHA
3 Óbidos p Coruche
IC
4 Caldas da Rainha a Vila Franca de Xira NAZARÉ PORTO DE MÓS

5 Alcobaça pp184–5 s Alenquer ral
atu ire
NT
e N de A
6 Nazaré d Torres Vedras rqu rras iros
São Martinho Pa s Se dee
LA
7 Porto de Mós do Porto ALCOBAÇA da e Ca

n
8 Batalha pp188–9 Casais de
AT
9 Leiria Serra do
Santa Teresa
0 Pombal BERLENGA Bouro
q Fátima ISLANDS Benedita
Lagoa de CALDAS DA Alcanede
w Tomar pp190–94 Óbidos
PENICHE RAINHA
e Barragem do Castelo de Bode Baleal
Cabo Carvoeiro ÓBIDOS
r Abrantes
t Castelo de Almourol Rio Maior
y Torres Novas Reguengo
Grande
u Golegã
Bombarral Vermelha São João da
Ribeira
Lourinhã Cadaval
Cercal Almoster
Maceira Campelos Vilar

to
Key un
tej
Ramalhal on Cartaxo
Motorway M Aveiras de
de Cima
Secondary road ra
TORRES VEDRAS S er
Minor road
Carvoeira Meca Azambuja
Scenic route São Pedro
Main railway
da Cadeira LISBOA ALENQUER
Salvaterra
de Magos
Minor railway Sobral de
Monte Agraço
e jo
Benavente
Regional border
oT
VILA FRANCA
Ri
DE XIRA
Porto Alto
Lisboa
Colourful beach tents at São Martinho do Porto, near Nazaré

E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O  179
Coimbra
Louriçal Redinha Castanheira

Campelo
de Pêra
Alvorge
ó
Avelar
ic
S
POMBAL do Ansião
r ra Figueiró dos
Se Vinhos
Santiago
de Litém Almoster
Vermoil
Alvaiázere Bougainvillea overhanging the walls of a café in the
Albergaria
well-preserved town of Óbidos
Rio N
dos Doze Cabaços

Boavista
abã o
Espite Freixianda
a
Cardosos ix
Caxarias Ba Cardigos
Ferreira
i ra do Zêzere
Ourém Be
Amêndoa
FÁTIMA
TOMAR Barragem da
Assentiz Santiago de Pracana
Montalegre Castelo
BARRAGEM DO Mação
Mira de Aire Branco
e CASTELO DE BODE Sardoal
Air
de
S e r ra Mouriscas
TORRES NOVAS Ortiga
ABRANTES
Constância Pego Portalegre
Alcanena Entroncamento
Vila Nova Rossio ao Sul do Tejo
da Barquinha CASTELO DE
GOLEGÃ ALMOUROL
Pernes Pinheiro Grande
jo
Te Chamusca Getting Around
o Bemposta
Ri
Although trains connect many
SANTARÉM of the major towns in the region,
Alcanhões
Vale de Cavalos stations are often located outside
Chouto the town. There are local bus services
ALPIARÇA
SANTARÉM and coach trips from Lisbon to such
destinations as Alcobaça and Tomar.
Almeirim
i a Driving is the most convenient option.
í r The A1 (IP1) and A8 (IC1) allow easy
Benfica
L e z north–south access. Avoid the NI (IC2)
Raposa as it is often congested. The A23 (IP6)
Muge runs eastwards from the A1 (IP1).
São José
da Lamarosa
Marinhais
Rio Sorraia
Couço
CORUCHE Ri
b ei
ra d
o Divor
São Torcato
Évora
Setúbal
0 kilometres 25 The Renaissance bridge, Ponte Velha, over the River Nabão in Tomar, with the
0 miles 15 Convento de Cristo in the distance
1 Berlenga Islands
Road map B4. g from Peniche.
n Peniche.
Monks, a lighthouse keeper,

fishermen and biologists have
inhabited this rocky archipelago
that juts out from the Atlantic
Ocean 12 km (7 miles) from the
mainland. Berlenga Grande, the
biggest island, can be reached by
ferry in about an hour. This island
is a nature reserve with nesting
sites for sea birds including
guillemots and herring gulls.
On the southeast side of
the island is the 17th-century
pentagonal Forte de São João
Baptista. This stark, stone fort
suffered repeated assaults from
pirates and foreign armies over
the years. Today it is a basic
hostel. Small boats can be hired
from the jetty to explore the
reefs and marine grottoes Stone fortress of São João Baptista on Berlenga Grande
around the island. Furado
Grande is the most spectacular of town stands the 16th-century Environs
of these; a 70-m (230-ft) tunnel, Fortaleza, used as a prison On the peninsula’s western head-
opening into the Covo do during the Salazar regime (see land, 2 km (1 mile) from Peniche,
Sonho (Dream Cove) framed by pp60–61). The fortress was made Cabo Carvoeiro affords grand
imposing red granite cliffs. famous by the escape in 1960 views of the ocean and the
of the communist leader Álvaro strange-shaped rocks along
Cunhal. Inside, the Museu de the eroded coastline. Here, the
2 Peniche Peniche offers a tour that interior of the chapel of Nossa
includes a look into the prison Senhora dos Remédios is faced
Road map B4. * 28,000. @ n Rua
cells. In Largo 5 de Outubro, the with 18th-century tiles on the
Alexandre Herculano (262 789 571).
( Last Thu of the month (except Igreja da Misericórdia has 17th- Life of the Virgin attributed to
Jul & Dec). century painted ceiling panels the workshop of António de
depicting the Life of Christ, and Oliveira Bernardes (see p30).
Set on a peninsula, this small, patterned azulejo panels from Along the coast, 2 km (1 mile)
pleasant town is partly enclosed the same period. east of Peniche, Baleal is a small
by 16th-century walls. Totally community with gorgeous
dependent on its port, Peniche E Museu de Peniche beaches and an idyllic fishing
has good fish restaurants and Campo da República. Tel 262 780 116. cove across a causeway.
deep-sea fishing facilities. At the Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
water’s edge on the south side 1 May, 25 Dec. &
3 Óbidos
Road map B4. * 11,000. £ @
n Rua da Porta da Vila (Parque do
Estacionamento Grande) (262 959
231). ( First Sun of the month.
This enchanting hill town with

whitewashed houses is enclosed
within 14th-century walls. When
King Dinis (see pp48–9) married
Isabel of Aragon in 1282, Óbidos
was one of his wedding presents
to her. At the time Óbidos was
an important port, but by the
16th century the river had silted
up and its strategic importance
declined. It has since been
Boats anchored in the old harbour at Peniche restored and preserved.
The entrance into the town

is through the southern gate,
Porta da Vila, whose interior is
embellished with 18th-century
tiles. Rua Direita, the main
shopping street, leads to Praça
de Santa Maria. Here, a
Manueline pelourinho (pillory)
is decorated with a fishing net,
the emblem of Dona Leonor,
wife of João II. She chose this
emblem in honour of the fish-
ermen who tried in vain to save
her son from drowning.
Opposite the pillory is the
church of Santa Maria, with a
simple Renaissance portal. The
future Afonso V was married to
his cousin Isabel here in 1441. View of the castle over the whitewashed houses of Óbidos
He was ten years old, she eight.
The interior of the church town from the Moors in 1148. 4 Caldas da Rainha
retains a simple clarity with a Today it is a charming pousada
Road map B4. * 22,000. £ @
painted wooden ceiling and (see p389). The sentry path along n Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco
17th-century tiles. In the the battlements affords fine (262 240 000). ( Mon.
chancel, a retable depicting views of the rooftops.
the Mystic Marriage of St Southeast of town is the The “queen’s hot springs”, a
Catherine (1661) is by Josefa de Baroque Santuário do Senhor da sprawling spa town, owes its
Óbidos (see p55). The artist lived Pedra, begun in 1740 to a prosperity to three different
most of her life in Óbidos and hexagonal plan. An early Chris- fields: thermal cures, ceramics
is buried in the church of São tian stone crucifix on the altar and fruit farming. The town is
Pedro on Largo de São Pedro. remains a venerated item. named after Dona Leonor,
Her work is also on display in founder of the Misericórdia
the Museu Municipal. E Museu Municipal hospital on Largo Rainha Dona
Dominating the town is Solar da Praça de Santa Maria, Rua Leonor. The original hospital
the castle, rebuilt by Afonso Direita. Tel 262 959 299. Open Tue– chapel later became the
Henriques after he took the Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & impressive Manueline Igreja do
Populo, built by Diogo Boitac
(see pp108–9). Inside is the
15th-century chapel of São
Sebastião, faced with 18th-
century azulejos.
The shops in Rua da
Liberdade sell local ceramics,
including the local green
majolica ware. Examples of the
work of the caricaturist and
potter Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
(1846–1905) can be seen in
the Museu de Cerâmica, in
the ceramics factory. The Museu
José Malhoa is dedicated to
the artist known as “the painter
of Portuguese sun and light”.
E Museu de Cerâmica
Rua Dr Ilídio Amado. Tel 262 840 280.
Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
& (free first Sun of month).
Environs
Saltwater Lagoa de Óbidos,
15 km (9 miles) west, is a popular
Pillory in front of the Igreja de Santa Maria in Óbidos lagoon for sailing and fishing.
The colourful courtyard of a house in Óbidos
5 Alcobaça Sacristy Doorway

Exotic foliage and
Portugal’s largest church, the Mosteiro de Santa elaborate pinnacles
adorn the Manueline
Maria de Alcobaça, is renowned for its simple doorway, attributed
medieval architecture. Founded in 1153, this to João de Castilho
UNESCO World Heritage site is closely linked to (see p108).
the arrival of the Cistercian order in Portugal in
1138 as well as the birth of the nation. In March
1147, King Afonso Henriques (see pp46–7)
conquered the Moorish stronghold of Santarém.
To commemorate the victory, he fulfilled his
vow to build a church for the Cistercians, a task
completed in 1223. The monastery was further
endowed by other monarchs, notably King Dinis
who built the main cloister. Among those buried
here are the tragic lovers King Pedro and his
murdered mistress Inês.
Refectory and Kitchen

Stairs lead up to the pulpit where
one of the monks read from the
Bible as the others ate in silence.
In the vast kitchen next door, oxen
could be roasted on the spit inside
the chimney and a specially
diverted stream provided a
constant water supply.
KEY
1 The octagonal lavabo

was where the monks washed
their hands.
2 The kitchen’s huge chimney
3 The chapterhouse was
where the monks met to elect
the abbot and discuss issues
regarding the monastery.
4 Dormitory
5 Tomb of Inês de Castro
. Cloister of
Dom Dinis
6 Death of St Bernard, a late Also known as the
17th-century ceramic sculpture Cloister of Silence, the
created by the monks. exquisite cloister was
7 The façade is a richly decorated ordered by King Dinis in
18th-century addition. Marble 1308. The austere galleries
statues of St Benedict and St Bernard and double arches are in
flank the main doorway. keeping with the Cistercian
regard for simplicity.
Road map C4. Santa Maria de
Alcobaça, Praça 25 de Abril,
Alcobaça. Tel 262 505 120. Open
9am–7pm (Oct–Mar: to 6pm) daily
(last adm: 30 mins before closing).
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
20 Aug, 25 Dec. 5 6:30pm Sat,
. Tombs of Pedro I and Inês de Castro 11:30am Sun. & (free first Sun of
Pedro’s statue, attended by angels, lies month). ∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt
opposite that of Inês. Popular legend says that
Transport
the king insisted that they face each other
@ from Lisbon, Coimbra, Leiria.
so that his first sight on Judgement Day
would be of her (see pp48 –9).
Central Nave
The vaulted roof and
soaring columns of the
central nave create an
impression of harmony
and austere simplicity.
Main entrance
The Murder of Inês de Castro

Reasons of state obliged Pedro, son
and heir of Afonso IV (see pp48 –9),
to marry Costanza, Infanta of
Castile. When Costanza died,
Pedro went to live with Inês
de Castro, a lady at court with
whom he had fallen in love,
in Coimbra. Persuaded that
Inês’s family was dangerous,
Afonso IV had her murdered
on 7 January 1355 (see p209). On
Sala dos Reis Afonso’s death, Pedro took revenge on two of the
Tiles from the killers by having their hearts torn out. Declaring
18th century depict that he had been married to Inês, Pedro had her
the founding of the corpse exhumed and crowned. In a final gruesome
abbey and statues of gesture, he compelled his court to kneel before
Portuguese kings Inês and kiss her decomposed hand.
adorn the walls.
statue of the Virgin Romanesque portal. In the

Mary brought to public gardens is the richly
the town by a monk decorated Baroque church of
from Nazareth in São Pedro. Just off the Praça
the 4th century. da República, the Museu
High on the cliff Municipal displays a varied
above the town is collection of local finds dating
Sítio, reached by a back to Roman remains and
funicular that climbs dinosaur bones. More modern
110 m (360 ft). At the exhibits include the local mós
cliff edge stands (millstones), as well as present
the tiny Ermida da day ceramics and woven rugs.
Memória. This is
said to be where the E Museu Municipal
Virgin Mary saved Travessa de São Pedro. Tel 244 499 652.
Dom Fuas Roupinho, Open Tue–Sat. Closed public hols.
a local dignitary, and
his horse from fol
The beach at Nazaré viewed from Sítio lowing a deer that
leapt off the cliff in
6 Nazaré a sea mist in 1182. Across the
square, the 17thcentury church
Road map C4. * 15,000. @
n Avenida Vieira Guimarães 54,
of Nossa Senhora da Nazaré, with
Mercado Municipal(262 561 194). two Baroque belfries and 18th
( Fri (closed Aug). century tiles inside, contains
an anonymous painting of the
Beside a glorious beach in a miraculous rescue. The church
sweeping bay backed by steep also contains the revered
cliffs, this fishing village is a image of Our Lady of Nazaré.
popular summer resort that has In September this statue is Donkey in the Serra de Aire nature reserve,
maintained some of its traditional borne down to the sea in a south of Porto de Mós
character. Fishermen dressed in traditional procession.
checked shirts and black stocking Environs
caps and fishwives wearing Environs South of the town, the
several layers of petticoats can São Martinho do Porto, 13 km 390sqkm (150sq mile)
still be seen mending nets and (8 miles) south of Nazaré, is a Parque Natural das Serras de
drying fish on wire racks on the sandy beach on a curving, Aire e Candeeiros covers a
beach. The bright boats with tall almost landlocked bay. The limestone landscape of pas
prows that once were hauled safe location makes it popular tures, olive groves and stone
from the sea by oxen are still with families and children. walls and is a nesting place
used, although now they have a The Visigothic church of São for the redbeaked chough.
proper anchorage south of the Gião, 5 km (3 miles) further The area is also dotted with
beach. According to legend the south, has fine sculpting and vast and spectacular under
name Nazaré comes from a wellroportioned arches. ground caverns with odd rock
formations and festoons of
stalactites and stalagmites. The
7 Porto de Mós Grutas de Mira de Aire, 17 km
(11 miles) southeast of Porto de
Road map C4. * 25,000. @ n
Mós, are the biggest, descending
Jardim Municipal (244 491 323). ( Fri.
110 m (360 ft) into tunnels and
Originally a Moorish fort, and walkways around subterranean
rebuilt over the centuries by lakes. A tour through caverns
successive Christian kings, the with names such as the “Jewel
rather fanciful castle perches Room”, past bizarre rocks dubbed
on a hill above the small town “Chinese Hat” or “Jellyfish”, ends in
of Porto de Mós. Its present a theatrical light and water show.
appearance, with green cone
shaped turrets and an exquisite } Grutas de Mira de Aire
loggia, was the inspired work Av Dr Luciano Justo Ramos.
of King Afonso IV’s master Tel 244 440 322. Open daily. &
builders in 1420.
In the town below, the 13th
Baroque church of Nossa Senhora da Nazaré century church of São João
8 Batalha
in Sítio Baptista retains its original See pp188–9.
9 Leiria of the original

Road map C4. * 123,000. £
church. The muted
@ n Jardim Luís de Camões 16thcentury Sé
(244 848 770). ( Tue & Sat. above Praça Rodri
∑ turismodocentro.pt gues Lobo has an
elegant vaulted nave
Episcopal city since 1545, Leiria and an altarpiece in
is set in attractive countryside the chancel painted
on the banks of the River Lis. in 1605 by Simão
Originally the Roman town of Rodrigues. From
Collipo, it was recaptured from Avenida Marquês
the Moors by Afonso Henriques de Pombal, climbing
(see pp46–7) in the 12th century. the hill opposite the Exposed and rugged coastline west of Leiria
In 1254 Afonso III held a cortes castle, an 18thcentury
here, the first parliament stairway takes you up to 0 Pombal
attended by common laymen. the elaborate 16thcentury Road map C4. * 58,000. £ @
The resplendent hilltop castle Santuário de Nossa Senhora da n Rua do Castelo (236 210 556).
houses a museum and meeting Encarnação. The small Baroque ( Mon & Thu.
rooms. Along with Pombal, interior is tightly packed with
Ourém and Tomar, the Leiria colourful geometric azulejo Closely associated with the
castle was part of the defence panels and 17thcentury Marquês de Pombal (see pp56–7)
system of central Portugal. In the paintings of the Life of the Virgin. who retired here in disgrace
early 1300s, King Dinis turned it in 1777, this small town of
+ Castle
into a royal residence for himself whitewashed houses is
Largo de São Pedro. Tel 244 839 670.
and his queen, Isabel of Aragon. overlooked by the stately and
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct–
Within the castle battlements is wellpreserved castle, founded
Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm. Closed 1 Jan,
the Gothic church of Nossa Easter, 25 Dec. &
in 1161 by the Knights Templar
Senhora da Pena, today little more (see p191).
than a roofless shell of dark Environs In the Praça Marquês de
granite walls. The view from Close to the town centre is the Pombal the old prison and the
the castle loggia overlooks the Estádio Dr Magalhães Pessoa, celeiro (granary) are adorned
wide expanse of pine forest, built for the Euro 2004 football with the Pombal family crest.
the Pinhal de Leiria, and the championship. West of Leiria is a The Museu Marquês de
rooftops of the town below. long coastal pine forest, the Pinhal Pombal features a collection
The old town below the castle de Leiria, planted by King Dinis to of documents and artworks
is full of charm, with tiny supply wood for shipbuilding. focusing on the Marquis.
dwellings over archways, grace The forest extends northwards
ful arcades and the small 12th to the beach of Pedrogão. São E Museu Marquês de Pombal
century church of São Pedro on Pedro de Muel, 22 km (14 miles) Praça Marquês de Pombal. Tel 236 210
Largo de São Pedro. The Roman to the west of Leiria, is a small 564. Open 10am–1pm & 2–6pm
esque portal is all that remains resort on a marvellous beach. Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. 7
Arcaded loggia and castle towers guarding the town of Leiria

8 Batalha
The Dominican monastery of Santa Maria da Vitória at Batalha,
a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a masterpiece of Portuguese
Gothic architecture notable for its Manueline elements. The
pale limestone monastery celebrates João I’s 1385 victory over
Castile at Aljubarrota. Today, two unknown soldiers from World
War I lie in the chapterhouse. The monastery was begun in
1388 under master builder Afonso Domingues, succeeded
in 1406 by David Huguet. Over the next two centuries
successive kings left their mark on the monastery: João’s Chapterhouse
son, King Duarte, ordered a royal pantheon behind the apse, Guards keep watch by the Tomb of the
and Manueline additions include the Unfinished Chapels and Unknown Soldiers beneath Huguet’s
striking star-vaulted ceiling.
much of the decoration of the monastery buildings.
. Royal Cloister
Gothic arches by Afonso
Domingues and Huguet
around the cloister are
embellished by
Manueline tracery
(see pp28–9)
to achieve a
harmony of form
and decoration.
KEY
1 Refectory Main
entrance
2 The lavabo, where friars
washed their hands before and
after meals, contains a fountain
built around 1450.
3 The stained-glass window
behind the choir dates from 1514. Portal
4 Lofty nave by Afonso The portal was
Domingues decorated by
Huguet with
5 The chapel is topped by an
religious motifs
octagonal lantern.
and statues of
6 João I’s motto, Por bem (for the apostles in
good), is inscribed on his tomb. intricate late-
Gothic style.
. Unfinished VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Chapels
Begun under King Practical Information
Duarte, the octagonal Road map C4. Mosteiro de Santa
mausoleum was Maria da Vitória, Batalha.
abandoned by Manuel Tel 244 765 497.
I in favour of the Open 9am–6pm (Oct–Mar: to
Jerónimos monastery 5:30pm) daily. Closed 1 Jan,
in Belém (see pp108–9). Easter, 1 May, 24 & 25 Dec. &
(free first Sun of month).
Transport
@ from Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de
Mós & Fátima.
Manueline Portal
Most of the decoration of the
Unfinished Chapels dates from
the reign of Manuel I. Designed
by architect Mateus Fernandes,
this delicate portal was carved
in 1509.
. Founder’s Chapel
The tomb of João I and his English wife Philippa of
Lancaster, lying hand in hand, was begun in 1426 by
Huguet. Their son, Henry the Navigator, is also buried here.
The Battle of Aljubarrota

In 1383 Portugal’s direct male line of descent
ended with the death of Fernando I (see
pp48–9). Dom João, the illegitimate son of
Fernando’s father, was proclaimed king, but
his claim was opposed by Juan of Castile. On
14 August 1385 João I’s greatly outnumbered
forces, commanded by Nuno Álvares Pereira,
faced the Castilians on a small plateau near
Aljubarrota, 3 km (2 miles) south of Batalha.
João’s spectacular victory ensured
200 years of independence from Spain.
The monastery now stands as a symbol
of Portuguese sovereignty and the Commander Nuno
power of the house of Avis. Álvares Pereira
with the children P Casa da Lúcia and Museu

by the tree. Only de Aljustrela
Lucia heard the Rua dos Pastorinhos de Aljustrel. Tel
“Secret of Fátima”, 249 532 828. Open daily. & 7
spoken on her last
appearance. The Environs
first part of the The medieval town of Ourém,
secret was a vision 10 km (6 miles) northeast of
of hell; the second Fátima, is a walled citadel, domi
was of a war more nated by the 15thcentury castle
devastating than of Ourém built by Afonso, grand
Curved limestone gallery around the vast esplanade in World War I. The son of Nuno Álvares Pereira (see
front of the basilica at Fátima third part, a vision p189). His magnificent tomb is
of papal assassin in the 15thcentury Igreja Matriz.
q Fátima ation, was finally revealed by The town’s name is said to
Road map C4. * 9,000. @
Pope John Paul II on the occasion derive from Oureana, a Moorish
n Avenida Dom José Alves Correia of the Millennium. The Pope girl who, before she fell in love
da Silva (249 531 139). ( Sat. beatified Jacinta and Francisco with a Christian knight and
∑ turismodocentro.pt in 2000. Their tombs can be converted, was called Fátima.
found inside the basilica. Lucia,
The sanctuary of Fátima is a who became a nun, died in 2005.
devotional shrine on a prodi The stainedglass windows
gious scale, a pilgrim destin show scenes of the sightings.
ation on a par with Lourdes in In the esplanade, the Capela das
France. The NeoBaroque Aparições marks the site of the
limestone basilica, flanked by apparition. Inside, the crown of
statues of saints, has a 65m the Virgin holds the bullet used
(213ft) tower and an esplanade in the 1981 assassination attempt
twice the size of St Peter’s on Pope John Paul II. East of the
Square in Rome. sanctuary, the childrens’ homes
On 12 and 13 of May and have been preserved in the Casa
October, vast crowds of pilgrims da Lúcia/Museu de Aljustrela.
arrive to commemorate appear Waxworks and a multimedia
ances of the Virgin to three show complete the experience.
shepherd children (the three For most people, however, Ruined secret passage connecting the
pastorinhos). On 13 May 1917, the most impressive sight is the towers of the castle in Ourém
10yearold Lucia Santos and intense emotion and faith of
her young cousins, Jacinta the penitents who approach the
and Francisco Marto, saw a shrine on their knees. Wax w Tomar
shining figure in a holm oak tree. limbs are burned as offerings Road map C4. * 43,000. £ @
The apparition ordered the child for miracles performed by the n Avenida Dr Cândido Madureira
ren to return to the tree on the Virgin and thousands of candles (249 329 823). ( Fri.
same day for six months and by light the esplanade in the night
13 October 70,000 pilgrims were time masses. Founded in 1157 by Gualdim
Pais, the first Grand Master of
the Order of the Templars in
Portugal, the town is dominated
by the 12thcentury castle
containing the Convento de
Cristo (see pp192–3). The heart
of this charming town is a neat
grid of narrow streets. The lively
shopping street, Rua Serpa
Pinto, leads to the Gothic
church of São João Baptista
on Praça da República, the
town’s main square. The late
15thcentury church has an
elegant Manueline portal and is
capped by an octagonal spire.
Inside, there is a carved stone
pulpit and 16thcentury paint
ings including a Last Supper by
Church and clock tower of São João Baptista in Tomar’s main square Gregório Lopes (1490–1550).
A particularly gory beheading

of John the Baptist is also
attributed to Lopes.
The area outside the church
is the focus of the spectacular
Festa dos Tabuleiros, a festival
with pagan origins held in July,
every four years, in which girls
in white carry towering platters
of bread and flowers on their
heads. The festival has similar
roots to the Festa do Espírito
Santo (see p372), popular in
the Azores.
Nearby, in Rua Dr Joaquim
Jacinto, stands one of the oldest
synagogues in Portugal, built in
1430–60 with four tall columns
and a vaulted ceiling. The
building was last used as a place
of worship in 1497 after which
Manuel I (see pp50–51) banished
all Jews who refused to convert
to Christianity. It has since been
a prison, a hay loft and a
warehouse. Today, it holds a Tomar’s main shopping street, Rua Serpa Pinto, overlooked by the castle
small Jewish museum, the
Museu Luso-Hebraico de century (see p197). A powerful basilica, Nossa Senhora da
Abraham Zacuto, named after stone retable depicting Christ Conceição, built between 1530
a renowned 15th-century on the Cross (1536) stands and 1550. Its exterior simplicity
astronomer and mathematician. above the altar in the Capela contrasts with the elegantly
Further south stands the dos Vales. On an island in the proportioned and delicately
17th-century church of São river, the shaded Parque do carved Corinthian columns of
Francisco. Its former cloisters Mouchão is a pleasant walk; an the interior. The architect is
now house the Museu dos allegedly Roman water wheel believed to be Francisco de
Fósforos, a match museum turns with the passing water. Holanda (1517–84), who worked
proudly boasting the largest Continuing northwards, past for King João III.
collection in Europe – over the octagonal 16th-century
43,000 matchboxes from Ermida de São Gregório with its E Museu Hebraico (Synagogue)
104 countries of the world. wild Manueline doorway, a n Rua Joaquim Jacinto. Tel 249 329
On the east side of the River huge flight of steps leads to 823 (tourist office). Open Tue–Sun.
Nabão, just off Rua Aquiles da a 17th-century chapel, Nossa Closed public hols.
Mota Lima, is the 13th-century Senhora da Piedade. E Museu dos Fósforos
church of Santa Maria do Olival, On the slopes of the hill Av General Bernardo Faria. Tel 249 329
with a distinctive three-storey leading up to the Convento 823 (tourist office). Open Tue–Sun.
bell tower. Restored various do Cristo is the Renaissance Closed public hols. 7
times over the centuries, the
church preserves its Gothic
façade and rose window. The Order of Christ
Inside are the graves of During the 12th and 13th centuries, the
Gualdim Pais (died 1195) and crusading Order of the Knights Templar helped
other Templar Masters, and the Portuguese in their battle against the Moorish
an elegant Renaissance pulpit. “infidels”. In return they were rewarded with exten-
The church once had sive lands and political power. Castles, churches
significance far beyond Tomar and towns sprang up under their protective
as the mother church for mar- mantle. In 1314, Pope Clement V was forced to
iners in the Age of Discovery. suppress this rich and powerful Order, but in
Heading north, Rua Santa Portugal King Dinis turned it into the Order of
Cross of the Order
Christ, which inherited the property and privileges
Iria takes you to the Capela of Christ
of the Templars. Ideals of Christian expansion were
de Santa Iria, beside the 15th- revived in the 15th century when their Grand Master, Prince
century bridge, Ponte Velha. Henry the Navigator, invested the order’s revenue in exploration.
This Renaissance chapel is said The emblem of the order, the squared cross, adorned the sails of the
to have been built where the caravels that crossed the uncharted waters (see pp52–3).
saint was martyred in the 7th
Tomar: Convento de Cristo

Founded in 1160 by the Grand Master of the . Manueline
Window
Templars, the Convent of Christ still retains some Marine motifs
reminders of these monk-knights and the inheritors entwine round
of their mantle, the Order of Christ (see p191). Under this elaborate
Henry the Navigator, the Governor of the Order window. The
carving at the
from 1418, cloisters were built between the Charola base is thought
and the Templars’ fortress, but it was the reign of to be either the
João III (1521–57) that saw the greatest changes. architect (see p28)
Architects such as João de Castilho and Diogo de or the Old Man of
the Sea.
Arruda, engaged to express the Order’s power and
royal patronage in stone, built the church and
cloisters with dazzling Manueline flourishes,
which reached a crescendo with the window
in the west front of the church.
. Great Cloister
Begun in the 1550s, probably
by Diogo de Torralva, this
cloister reflects João
III’s passion for
Italian art.
Concealed
spiral stair
ways in
the corners
lead to the
Terrace of
Wax.
KEY
1 The Terrace of Wax is where

honeycombs were left to dry.
2 Cloister of the Crows, flanked
by an aqueduct
3 The “Bread” Cloister was where
loaves were handed out to the poor
who came to beg at the monastery. The Charola
4 The Manueline Church by The nucleus of the monastery is the
Diogo de Arruda, was begun in the 12thcentury Charola, the Templars’
early 16th century and is on two oratory. Like many of their temples,
levels. The ornate ribbed vaulting in its layout is based on the Rotunda
the upper choir incorporates the of Jerusalem’s Holy Sepulchre, with
insignia and initials of Manuel I. a central octagon of altars. In 1356,
5 The south portal is initialled by Tomar became the headquarters of
João de Castilho. the Order of Christ in Portugal, and
the Charola’s decoration reflects the
6 Internal octagon of the Charola
Order’s wealth. The paintings and
7 The Washing Cloister was built frescoes (mostly 16thcentury bib
around a pair of large reservoirs, lical scenes) and the gilded statuary
today planted with flowers. The gilded octagon below the Byzantine cupola have
8 Ruins of the former royal undergone much careful restoration.
quarters When the Manueline church was built, an archway was
created in the side of the Charola to link the two, making the
9 Castle keep Charola the church’s main chapel.
TOMAR  193
15-minute walk from Tomar
centre. Tel 249 313 481.
∑ conventocristo.pt
Open 9am–6pm daily (Oct–
May: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free
first Sun of month).
Transport
£ @ from Lisbon, Coimbra
& Leiria.
. Charola
The original Templar church, sometimes called the
Rotunda, was built in the shape of a 16-sided drum.
Cemetery Cloister
Monks’ tombstones
pave the perimeter of
this early 15th-century
cloister, the first to
be built here. In one
corner stands a well.
Entrance
Templar Castle
In 1160 the Templars’ Grand Master built
this castle on land given to the Order for
services in battle.
do Castelo, within the castle

walls, is now the small Museu
Dom Lopo de Almeida.
Besides local archaeological
finds, it houses the tombs of
the Almeida family, counts
of Abrantes. On Rua da
República, the Misericórdia
church, constructed in 1584,
has six magnificent religious
panels attributed to Gregório
Lopes (1490–1550).
E Museu Dom Lopo de Almeida

Rua Capitão Correia de Lacerda.
The defensive walls of the early 13th-century fortress at Abrantes Tel 241 371 724. Open Tue–Sun.
e Barragem do Zêzere, in Castanheira on the

western side of the lake, and
Castelo de Bode yachting facilities are usually
Road map C4. @ to dam. 4 from available from the lakeside
Castanheira. Open by appt (249 362 hotels such as the peaceful
239). n Tomar (249 329 823). Estalagem Lago Azul (see p389).
A cruise can also be taken from
Perhaps there once was a the hotel, stopping at the sandy
“Castle of the Billygoat”, but beaches and the small islands.
today the name refers to a large
dam (barragem) that blocks the
flow of the River Zêzere 10 km r Abrantes
(6 miles) upstream from its
Road map C4. * 42,000. £ @
confluence with the Tagus. n Esplanada 1° de Maio (241 330
Construction of the dam began 100). ( Mon.
in 1946 to serve the first of
Portugal’s hydroelectric power Grandly situated above the Whitewashed houses in Constância above
stations. Above it, a long, sprawl Tagus, the town of Abrantes was the banks of the Tagus
ing lake nestles between hills once of strategic importance. It
covered in pine and eucalyptus had a vital role in the Reconquest Environs
forests in which lie small, (see pp46–7), and during the The 16thcentury church of
isolated villages. The valley is a Peninsular War (see p58) both São Tiago e São Mateus, in
secluded area popular for boat the French General Junot and the the unspoiled town of Sardoal,
ing, fishing and water sports Duke of Wellington made it 8 km (5 miles) north of
and it is possible to hire equip a base. The ruined fortress Abrantes, holds a compelling
ment from centres along the that overlooks the town and thorncrowned Christ by the
lake shore. Canoes, windsurf the surrounding flatlands is a 16thcentury painter, the
boards and waterskis can be reminder of its status. The 15th Master of Sardoal. An 18th
found at the Centro Naútico do century church of Santa Maria century tile panel on the
façade of the Capela do
Espírito Santo, in Praça da
Luís Vaz de Camões (1524–80) República, honours Gil Vicente,
The author of Portugal’s celebrated epic poem, Os Lusìadas, had a the 16thcentury playwright
passionate nature and was often in trouble. Banished from court, born here.
he enlisted in 1547 and set sail for North Africa, where he The pretty whitewashed town
lost an eye. Imprisoned after another brawl, he agreed to of Constância, 12 km (7 miles)
serve his country in India, but his was the only ship from west of Sardoal, nurtures the
the fleet to survive the stormy seas. This experience memory of the poet Luís Vaz
gave his subsequent poem its vibrant power.
de Camões. Sent away from
A unique record of the Discoveries, this
Classicalstyle epic charts the voyage of Vasco
court for misbehaving with a
da Gama to India and recounts events and court lady, he lived here briefly
legends from Portuguese history. There was after 1546.
to be no success for Camões, however, and
he passed bleak years in India yearning for P Centro Ciência Viva
Statue of Camões on the Lisbon. His poem was published in 1572, de Constância
river bank at Constância but he died almost unnoticed. Alto de Santa Bárbara. Tel 249 739
066. Open Tue–Sun. &
t Castelo de
Almourol
Road map C4. @ to Barquinha then
taxi then ferry. Open Tue–Sun during
daylight hours. n Largo 1 Dezembro,
Barquinha (915 081 737).
Dramatically set on a tiny island

in the Tagus, this enchanting
castle was built over a Roman
fortress in 1171 by Gualdim
Pais (see p191). Legends of this
magical place abound. A 16th-
century verse romance called
Palmeirim de Inglaterra weaves
a tale of giants and knights
and the fight of the crusader
Palmeirim for the lovely The evocative ruins of the island fortress of Almourol
Polinarda. Some say the castle
is haunted by the ghost of a with colourful “carpet” azulejos Environs
princess sighing for the love of from 1674. The Igreja de Roman ruins dating from the
her Moorish slave. Santiago, on Largo do Paço, 4th century AD at Vila Cardílio,
Over the centuries, the castle, was probably built in 1203, 3 km (2 miles) southwest of
surrounded by ramparts and although tiles and a gilded Torres Nov as, retain some
nine towers, has never been retable with a wood carving superb mosaics and baths. On
taken by invading forces. of the young Jesus assisting the northeast outskirts of town
Joseph in his carpentry are are the large Neolithic caves of
17th-century additions. Grutas das Lapas. The small
y Torres Novas In the centre of town is the wetland Reserva Natural do Paúl
Museu Municipal de Carlos de Boquilobo, 8 km (5 miles)
Road map C4. * 16,000. @
n Largo dos Combatentes 4–5
Reis, named after the painter south, between the Tagus and
(249 813 019). ( Tue. Carlos Reis (1863–1940) who Almondo rivers, was declared
was born here. The museum a nature reserve in 1981. The
Animated streets and many contains paintings by 19th- willow trees and aquatic plants
fine churches cluster beneath and early 20th-century artists, along the river shelter wildfowl
the castle walls of this hand- a 15th-century Gothic figure in winter, and nesting egrets
some town. The ruins of the of Nossa Senhora do Ó, as well and herons in spring.
12th-century fortress, the scene as coins and bronze and
of bitter fighting between the ceramic artifacts from the T Vila Cardílio
Moors and the Christians during Roman ruins at Vila Cardílio. Estrada Municipal de St António da
the Reconquest, now enclose a Caveira. Tel 249 839 430 (ext: 3361).
garden. Just below the castle is E Museu Municipal
Open daily. Closed public hols. 7
the 16th-century Misericórdia de Carlos Reis T Grutas das Lapas
church with a Renaissance Rua do Salvador. Tel 249 812 535. Rua José da Mota e Silva.
portal and an interior lined Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. Tel 249 836 709. Open daily.
Remains of the hypocaust, the Roman underfloor heating system, at Vila Cardílio outside Torres Novas
i Alpiarça are also paintings by Delacroix

and Zurbarán as well as many
Road map C4. * 8,000. @ n Praça
José Faustino Rodrigues Pinhão (243 works by 19th-century Portu-
556 000). ( Wed. guese artists, including 30 by
Relvas’s friend, José Malhôa
Set in the vast, fertile plain (see p59). Relvas also collected
known as the Lezíria, which exquisite porcelain, bronzes,
stretches east of the Tagus and furniture and Oriental rugs,
is famous for horse breeding, as well as early Portuguese
Alpiarça is a small, neat town. Arraiolos carpets, including
The fine twin-towered parish a particularly fine one in silk.
church, on Rua José Relvas, is
dedicated to Santo Eustáquio, E Casa Museu dos Patudos
patron saint of the town. Built in 2 km (1 mile) S, N118. Tel 243 558
the late 19th century, it houses 321. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public
paintings from the 17th hols. &
century, including a charming
Divine Shepherdess in the
Portal of the Igreja Matriz in Golegã sacristy in which the young
Jesus is shown conversing with
u Golegã a sheep. The stone cross in the
courtyard is dated 1515.
Road map C4. * 9,000. @ n Rua
On the southern outskirts of
de D Afonso Henriques, Largo da
Imaculada Conceição (249 979 002). town is the striking Casa Museu
( Wed. dos Patudos surrounded by
vineyards. This was the residence
Usually a quiet town, Golegã is of the wealthy and cultivated Elegant façade of the country manor,
overrun during the first two weeks José Relvas (1858–1929), an art Quinta da Alorna, outside Almeirim
of November by thousands of collector and diplomat as well
horse enthusiasts who throng to as a politician and – briefly – Environs
the annual Feira Nacional do premier of the Republic. The Almeirim, 7 km (4 miles) to the
Cavalo. This horse fair, which exterior of this eye-catching south, was a favourite abode of
attracts Portugal’s finest horses, country house, built for him by the House of Avis (see pp50–51).
breeders and equestrians, Raúl Lino in 1905–9, has simple Today little of its royal past
coincides with the tasting of the whitewashed walls and a green remains and most visitors come
year’s new wine on St Martin’s Day and white striped spire. The here to sample the famous sopa
(11 November). The atmosphere colonnaded loggia, reached via de pedra (stone soup).
is enlivened by the consumption an outside staircase, is lined with Many large estates and fine
of the young wine known as azulejo panels. The museum stables extend across the vast
agua-pé (literally, “foot water”). contains Relvas’s personal flat plains of this fertile horse
In the centre of town, the 16th- collection of fine and decorative and cattle breeding area. The
century Igreja Matriz, attributed art. Renaissance paintings Quinta da Alorna, a handsome
to Diogo Boitac (see pp108–9), include Virgin with Child and St 19th-century manor house
has an exquisite Manueline John by the school of Leonardo within walled gardens and
portal and a calm interior. The da Vinci and Christ in the Tomb well known for its wines, lies
small Casa-Estúdio Carlos by the German school. There just outside Almeirim.
Relvas is housed in the elegant
Art Nouveau house and studio
of the photographer (1838–94).
A vivid modern art collection
can be seen in the Museu de
Pintura e Escultura Martins
Correia in the old post office.
E Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas

Largo Dom Manuel I. Tel 249 979 120.
Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–6pm Tue–
Sun (Jun–Sep to 7pm). Closed public
hols. &
E Museu de Pintura e Escultura
Martins Correia
Rua D João IV. Tel 249 979 000. Open
as above. Closed as above. 7 limited.
& Portal of Igreja Matriz in Golegã. Tiled loggia of the Casa Museu dos Patudos, Alpiarça
Pedro Álvares Cabral, the

explorer who discovered
Brazil (see p52).
Further south, the 14th-
century Igreja do Santíssimo
Milagre, on Rua Braamcamp
Freire, has a Renaissance interior
and 16th-century azulejos (see
p30). A small crystal flask in the
sacristy is said to contain the
blood of Christ. The belief stems
from a 13th-century legend in
which a holy wafer intended
to help persuade a husband to
The Tagus seen from the Jardim das Portas do Sol in Santarém stop beating his wife was
miraculously transformed
o Santarém Opposite the tower, the Museu into blood.
Road map C4. * 30,000. £ @
Arqueológico was formerly the Santarém is an important
n Rua Capelo Ivens 63 (243 304 437). Romanesque church of São bullfighting centre with a
( 2nd & 4th Sun of month. João de Alporão. modern bullring at the south-
Rua Serpa Pinto leads into west corner of town. During
The lively district capital of the Rua 5 de Outubro and up to the first ten days of June, the
Ribatejo, overlooking the Tagus, the Jardim das Portas do Sol, town hosts the Ribatejo Fair,
has an illustrious past. To Julius built on the site of a Moorish Portugal’s largest agricultural
Caesar it was an important castle. The gardens are enclosed fair, in which there are bull-
bureaucratic centre, Praesidium by the city’s medieval walls, fights and contests between
Julium. To the Moors it was and a terrace affords a the colourfully dressed herds-
the stronghold of Xantarim. panorama of the river and its men, campinos. In the
To the Portuguese kings, who vast meadowlands. autumn (Oct/Nov)
ousted the Moors in 1147, Returning into town, on Portugal’s biggest
Santarém was a pleasing abode Largo Pedro Álvares Cabral, gastronomy festival is
and the site of many gatherings the 14th-century Igreja da held here, with lots of
of the cortes (parliaments). Graça has a spectacular informal eating at
The city’s name derives from rose window carved from stands representing the
“Santa Iria”, the 7th-century a single stone. The church country’s regions and
martyred nun from Tomar (see contains the tombstone of types of food.
pp190–91) whose body was
thrown into the River Nabão
and allegedly reappeared here
on the Tagus shore.
At the centre of the old
town, in Praça Sá da Bandeira,
is the vast Igreja do Seminário, a
multi-windowed Baroque
edifice built by João IV for the
Jesuits in 1640 on the site of a
royal palace. The huge interior
has a painted wooden ceiling
and marble and gilt ornamen-
tation. From here, Rua Serpa
Pinto runs southeast past a
cluster of older buildings. The
lofty Igreja de Marvila, built
in the 12th century and later
altered, has a Manueline portal
and is lined with dazzling
early 17th-century diamond-
patterned azulejo panels.
The medieval, although much
restored 22-m- (72-ft-) high
Torre das Cabaças, was once a
clock tower and now houses
a small museum of time,
Núcleo Museológical do Tempo. Tomb of Duarte de Meneses in the Museu Arqueológico, Santarém
Fields and vineyards in the low-lying Lezíria extending beyond Coruche
p Coruche blue and white church of Nossa history are on display in the
Road map C5. * 3,500. £ @
Senhora do Castelo. From here Museu Municipal.
n Galeria do Mercado Municipal there are excellent views over The town centre retains
(243 619 072). ( last Sat of month. the fertile agricultural land and an exuberantly tiled covered
cork oaks of the Sorraia valley market dating from the
Coruche is an attractive little and the Lezíria. 1920s. Further east, on Largo
town in the heart of the da Misericórdia, striking
bullfighting country with a 18th-century azulejos
riverside location overlooking a Vila Franca adorn the chancel of the
the Lezíria, the wide open plain de Xira Misericórdia church. South
that stretches east of the Tagus. Road map C5. * 130,600. £ @
of town, the Ponte Marechal
The town, inhabited since n Rua Alves Redol 5 (263 285 605). Carmona, built in 1951, is the
Palaeolithic times, was razed ( Tue & Fri. only bridge across the River
to the ground in 1180 by the Tagus between Santarém
Moors as reprisal against Sitting beside the Tagus, to the north and Lisbon to
the reconquering Christians. surrounded by the riverside the south.
In the central pedestrian industries that dominate this
street, Rua de Santarém, the area, the town has a reputation E Museu Municipal
O Coruja café is lined with larger than its modest appear- Rua Serpa Pinto 65. Tel 263 280 350.
vivid modern azulejo panels ance suggests. Traditionally Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
showing bulls in the Lezíria, the area has been the centre Tue–Sun. Closed public holidays.
the town’s bullring and scenes for bull-and-horse
of local life. A short walk up the rearing communities.
street stands the tiny church Twice a year crowds
of São Pedro. Its interior is flock here to
completely covered with participate in the
17th-century blue and yellow bull-running through
carpet tiles. An azulejo panel the streets and
on the altar front shows watch the tourada
St Peter surrounded by birds and traditional
and animals. Above the town horsemanship. The
stands the simple 12th-century animated and gaudy
Festa do Colete
Encarnado (named Bull-running (largada) in Vila Franca de Xira
after the red waistcoat
worn by campinos, the Environs
Ribatejo herdsmen) takes place At the Centro Equestre da
over several days in early July. Lezíria Grande in Povos, 3 km
The festival is a lively occasion (2 miles) south, you can watch
with folk dancing, boat races stylish dressage displays on
on the Tagus and sardines Lusitanian horses (see p302).
grilled in the street. A similar
festival, the Feira de Outubro, G Centro Equestre da
takes place in October. Lezíria Grande
Chancel in the church of São Pedro covered Archaeological exhibits and N1. Tel 263 285 160. Open Tue–Sun.
in azulejos, Coruche artifacts relating to regional Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Aug, 25 Dec.
s Alenquer
Road map C5. * 42,000. @
n Parque Vaz Monteiro (263 711
433). ( 2nd Mon of month.
Vila Alta, the old part of town,

climbs steeply up the slopes
of the hillside, high above the
newer town by the river. In
the central Praça Luìs de
Camões, the 15th-century
church of São Pedro contains
the tomb of the humanist
chronicler and native son,
Damião de Góis (1501–74).
Pêro de Alenquer, a navigator
for the explorers Bartolomeu
Dias in 1488 and Vasco da
Gama in 1497 (see pp52–3), Defensive walls and the castle overlooking Torres Vedras
was also born here. Uphill,
near the ruins of a 13th- d Torres Vedras visible, but along most of the
century castle, the monastery Road map B5. * 74,800. £ @
lines the forts and earthworks
church of São Francisco retains n Rua 9 de Abril (261 310 483). have gone, buried by time and
a Manueline cloister and a ( Apr–Oct: 1st Sat of month. rapid change.
13th-century portal. Founded Above the town, the restored
in 1222, this was Portugal’s The town is closely linked walls of the 13th-century castle
first Franciscan monastery. with the Lines of Torres Vedras, embrace a shady garden and
fortified defenses built by the the church of Santa Maria do
Environs Duke of Wellington to repel Castelo. Down in the town, on
At Meca, 5 km (3 miles) north- Napoleon’s troops during the Praça 25 de Abril, a memorial
west, is the huge pilgrimage Peninsular War (see p58). North to those who died in the
church of Santa Quitéria, where of the town, near the restored Peninsular War stands in front
a blessing of animals takes place fort of São Vicente, traces of of the 16th-century Convento
each May. trenches and bastions are still da Graça. Today the monastery
houses the well-lit Museu
Municipal. A room devoted
The Lines of Torres Vedras to the Peninsular War displays
In October 1809, to save Lisbon a model of the lines; other
from Napoleonic invasion, Arthur interesting exhibits include a
Wellesley (later the Duke of 15th-century Flemish School
Wellington) ordered an arc of defensive Retábulo da Vida da Virgem.
lines (Linhas de Torres) to be built. When Open for mass at weekends,
Flintlock complete, over 600 guns and 152 redoubts the monastery church, Igreja
pistol from (masonry forts) lay along two lines da Graça, has a 17th-century
Peninsular War stretching from the sea to the River Tagus. gilded altarpiece. In a niche in
One was 46 km (29 miles) long, from the
Sizandro river mouth, west of Torres Vedras, to Alhandra, south the chancel is the tomb of São
of Vila Franca de Xira. The second line, running Gonçalo de Lagos (see p326).
behind the first as far as the sea, was 39 km Beyond the pedestrian Rua 9
(24 miles) long. A short third line covered the de Abril, the Manueline church
possibility of retreat and embarkation. of São Pedro greets the visitor
Construction of the lines took place in extra- with an exotic winged dragon
ordinary secrecy: rivers had to be dammed, on the portal. The interior has a
earthworks raised, hills shifted and homes painted wooden ceiling, and
and farms demolished, but within a year colourful 18th-century azulejo
the chain of hilltop fortresses was panels depicting scenes of daily
complete. On 14 October 1810,
life adorn the walls. Behind the
General Masséna, at the head of
church, on Rua Cândido dos Reis,
65,000 French troops, saw with
astonishment the vastly altered and is a 16th-century water fountain,
fortified landscape and realized it was the Chafariz dos Canos.
impregnable. In November, the invaders
fell back to Santarém (see p197) and E Museu Municipal
in 1811, suffering hunger and defeat, Portrait of the Duke of Praça 25 de Abril. Tel 261 310 484.
withdrew beyond the Spanish border. Wellington, 1814 Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter
Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
THE BEIRAS
Stretching from the Spanish frontier to the sea, the
Beiras are a bulwark between the cool green north and
the parched south. This diverse region encompasses the
heights of the Serra da Estrela and the salt marshes of
the Ria de Aveiro, and its towns vary from lively Figueira
da Foz to the stately old university town of Coimbra.
The three provinces of the Beiras, which Conscious of Spain’s proximity and claim
form a part of the Centro region, may not on their land, successive Portuguese kings
be a tourist hub, but their past commercial constructed a great defensive chain of forts
and defensive significance has left its mark. along the vulnerable eastern border. The
In Beira Litoral, the prows of Aveiro’s sea seemingly impregnable walls of Almeida
weed boats are a legacy of trade with the still stand as a reminder of the region’s
Phoenicians. All over Beira Baixa, from unsettled history. These border fortresses
Castelo Branco to little granite villages, are continued to prove vital in the fight for
relics of foreign occupations, and Viseu, independence from Spain in the 17th
Beira Alta’s capital, grew up at a crossroads century, and again against Napoleon’s
of Roman trading routes. forces (see p58) . Even Buçaco, revered
The Romans were never as firmly or the peace and sanctity of its forest, is
entrenched here as further south, but the known also as the site of Wellington’s
ruins of Conímbriga speak eloquently of the successful stand against Masséna.
elegant city that once stood here, and which Despite the unforgiving terrain, the Beiras
gave its name to Coimbra, the principal city are the source of some gastronomic treats:
of Beira Litoral. Afonso Henriques, as king Portugal’s favourite cheese is made in
of the new nation of Portugal (see p46), the Serra da Estrela, and the lush Bairrada
moved his court to Coimbra, the young district around Mealhada is renowned for
country’s capital for over a century. its leitão, suckling pig. The region’s red
The upheavals of the nation’s founding wines are among Portugal’s best known:
and a hardwon independence have left a elegant Bairradas and powerful Dãos (see
rich heritage of castles and fortified towns. pp32–3) are particularly noteworthy.
Distinctive candy-striped beach houses in Costa Nova, between the Ria de Aveiro and the sea
Boats anchored at the Canal de São Roque, Aveiro
Exploring the Beiras

The Beiras, encompassing some of Portugal’s finest
scenery, comprise three regions. Along the Beira Litoral
are the sleepy backwaters of the Ria de Aveiro and, in
contrast, the busy seaside resort of Figueira da Foz.
The stately old university city of Coimbra repays
exploration, and is a convenient base for visiting the
historic forest of Buçaco and several of Portugal’s spas.
Inland lies Viseu, the charming capital of Beira Alta, Coimbra’s Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, with
on the route to the medieval strongholds of Guarda, a fine sculpture collection
Trancoso and the border castles. One of the country’s
highest mountains, the Serra da Estrela, separate the Porto
Beira Alta from the little-visited Beira Baixa,
where Monsanto, voted “Most Portuguese
Village”, and the handsome little city of SANTA MARIA São João AROUCA
DA FEIRA da Madeira
Castelo Branco are contrasting attractions.
OVAR da
N
Oliveira a
Vale de Cambra Ar
OCEA
de
ra
Sights at a Glance Ser
1 Arouca Torreira
Estarreja AVEI R O
Albergaria- São Pedro
2 Santa Maria da Feira do Sul
São Rio Voug a-Velha
IC
3 Ovar Jacinto
Talhadas
a
4 Aveiro pp206–7
ANT
AVEIRO Campia
5 Praia de Mira
lo
Ílhavo CARAMULO
mu
6 Figueira da Foz
AT L
ra
Águeda
7 Montemor-o-Velho Vagos
Ca
Tondela
do
8 Coimbra pp208–13 Sangalhos r ra
Se
9 Conímbriga PRAIA DE
0 Penela
MIRA Curia Carregal do Sal
Mira
q Lousã Mortágua
o
Mealhada LUSO
w Buçaco pp216–17 Ri
Cantanhede BUÇACO Tábua
e Luso
Tocha
r Arganil Portunhos
Penacova
t Piódão Ri o
COIMBRA Alva
y Oliveira do Hospital MONTEMOR- ARGANIL
Cabo O-VELHO
u Caramulo Mondego
i Viseu FIGUEIRA
Condeixa-
COIMBRA Góis
o Sernancelhe DA FOZ
Lavos
a-Nova LOUSÃ
p Trancoso CONÍMBRIGA
Soure
a Celorico da Beira
PENELA Álvares
s Almeida Rabaçal
f Guarda Leiria
g Serra da Estrela pp224–5 Barragem
h Belmonte Pedrógão do Cabril
j Sabugal Pequeno
Troviscal
k Penamacor
l Monsanto
Sertã
z Idanha-a-Velha
Ri
x Castelo Branco bei
ra d e I s n a
Tours Vila de Rei
d Border Castles Tour
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 15
Summer at the seaside in popular Figueira da Foz
For additional map symbols see back flap

THE BEIRAS  203
Getting Around
A rail network links the principal cities to smaller
towns, but stations are often outside the town.
Buses run from Coimbra to outlying areas, and
local buses link villages and towns throughout the
region. The most convenient way to explore the
Beiras, however, is by car. The Porto-Lisbon A1 (E2)
motorway passes close to Coimbra and Aveiro,
while the A25 motorway links Aveiro and the
eastern uplands. Long inclines and bad bends
make the A25 Portugal’s worst road for accidents.
Dão vineyards between Viseu and Mangualde All but the major routes are relatively traffic-free
and a pleasure to drive, although
unpaved surfaces can still be expected.
Vila Nova de
Moimenta Penedono Foz Côa
Vila
Real da Beira
omil
de Le Marialva
S e r ra Vila Nova
de Paiva
SERNANCELHE Castelo
Terranho Rodrigo
VISEU S e r ra
de
La
pa GUARDA
Calde Aguiar
da Beira TRANCOSO
Pinhel
Vila Franca ALMEIDA
Sátão das Naves
Vila BORDER
Penalva do CASTLES TOUR
Castelo Chã
VISEU CELORICO
DA BEIRA Pinzio
o
Dã Mangualde
Arrifana Castelo
Vilar
io Formoso
R Mendo
Nelas Linhares L A
E GUARDA Cerdeira
de
go TR
on Gouveia ES Vale de
a
M Adão
Cô
Paranhos Estrela
A
o
D
Ri
Seia
A
Valhelhas
RR
Manteigas Alfaiates
SE
OLIVEIRA DO BELMONTE SABUGAL

HOSPITAL
Sortelha
Alto da Torre Caria ta
Vide 1993m lca
Covilhã Ma
Tortozendo S e r ra da
PIÓDÃO e
ê ze r Capinha
Aço
r o Z
S e r ra d o Ri Fatela
PENAMACOR
Fundão
Silvares
Bogas de dunha
Steep terraces in the Serra de Açor,
Baixo Gar Medelim around Piódão
a da Orca
e rr MONSANTO
S
Serr Almaceda IDANHA-A-VELHA

a do
Mu
rad Tinalhas
al Alcafozes
E rges
Idanha-a-Nova
Oleiros
CASTELO BRANCO Key
Rio
s
lo
l vé Zebreira Motorway
d eA CASTELO
ra Major road
il
r Benquerenças BRANCO
rav
Se
sa
Minor road
oA
Proença- O cre
Rosmaninhal
a-Nova Rio
ad
Scenic route
Malpica
ei r
do Tejo
Rib
Main railway
Vila Velha Rio T Minor railway
ejo
do Ródão
National border
Abrantes
Regional border
Summit
1 Arouca of art, including two paintings town’s reputation. A double

by 18th-century artist André stairway leads from the Rossio
Road map C2. * 24,000. @
n Rua Alfredo Vaz Pinto (256 940 Gonçalves, showing Mafalda to the Igreja dos Lóios, with
258). ( 5 & 20 of month. saving the monastery from fire. blue 17th-century tiles
The Neo-Classical double decorating the façades of its
This small town in a green valley cloister, begun in 1781, the large two symmetrical bell towers.
owes its principal attraction, refectory and kitchen and a On the opposite side of the
the great Mosteiro de Arouca, chapterhouse covered with Rossio, winding streets of solid
to its saintly royal benefactor, cheerful Coimbra tiles of rural merchants’ houses from the
Mafalda. Princess Mafalda was scenes can also be visited. 18th and 19th centuries lead
born in 1195, the daughter of to a decorative stairway with
Sancho I. She was betrothed to R Mosteiro de Arouca an ornamental fountain. This
the teenage Prince Enrique of Largo de Santa Mafalda. Tel 256 943 rises up to the 18th-century
Castile, but when he died in an 321. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public Misericórdia church.
accident, Mafalda took the veil holidays. & 8 Crowning a wooded hill on
in Arouca. Under her, the the southern edge of the town
convent became Cistercian and is the fairy-tale castle. Although
Mafalda’s wealth and dedication much is a 20th-century recon-
made the house highly struction, it follows the
influential. She died in 15th- century design of a
1256, and her incorrupt local, Fernão Pereira, and
corpse was discovered in his son. They added
1616, leading to her crenellations and towers to
beatification in 1793. an 11th-century fort which
For over a thousand in turn had been built over
years the convent has a temple to a local god. The
stood beside Arouca’s title of Conde da Feira was
church on the cobbled Silver and ebony casket in the convent church at Arouca, bestowed on Pereira, and
main square. In the early containing the effigy of Santa Mafalda the castle remained in his
18th century the church family until 1700. There is
underwent costly redecoration: 2 Santa Maria not much inside the castle now,
104 carved choir stalls are but it retains its romantic air.
surmounted by paintings in da Feira
sumptuous gilded panels, and Road map C2. * 140,500. £ @ + Castle
the organ and chancel retable n Rua Dr. Roberto Alves 52 (256 370 Largo do Castelo. Tel 256 372 248.
are also heavily gilded. 802). ( 20 of month. Open Tue–Sun, including public
Honoured with its own altar hols. &
is a recumbent effigy of Santa Prosperous from cork and its
Mafalda in a silver and ebony thriving markets, Santa Maria
casket; her mummified remains derives its name from long 3 Ovar
lie below the casket. tradition – a document from Road map C2. * 56,300. £ @
Guided tours take visitors 1117 refers to “Terra de Santa n Rua Elias Garcia (256 572 215).
round the convent’s museum, Maria, a place people call ( Tue, Thu & Sat (general), 3rd Sun
in which are displayed some Feira”, after the fairs held here. of month (antiques).
exquisite silver monstrances, A large market each month in
furniture and religious works the broad Rossio upholds the Varinas, the hardworking
Portuguese fishwives, take their
name from Var, or O Var, this
small town which earned its
living from the sea and the Ria
de Aveiro that spreads out to
the south (see p207). Industry
has arrived in the shape of
foundries and steel mills, but
oxen still plod along the roads.
Gleaming tiles cover many
of the small houses, as well as
the twin-towered 17th-century
Igreja Matriz in Avenida do
Bom Reitor. In the town centre
the Calvary chapel of the
18th-century Capela dos Passos
is adorned with woodcarvings
The pinnacled and crenellated castle crowning Santa Maria da Feira carrying a shell motif.
THE BEIRAS  205
7 Montemor-o-
Velho
Road map C3. * 2,600. @
n Castelo de Montemor-o-Velho
(239 680 380). ( every other Wed.
This attractive and historic

hillside town rises out of fields
of rice and maize beside the
River Mondego. Its castle, which
served as a primary defence
of the city of Coimbra (see
House façades in Ovar with their traditional eye-catching blue tiles pp208–13) is mostly 14th
century, but it had previously
Ovar’s Carnaval parade is one spectacular beach by oxen, but been a Moorish stronghold,
of Portugal’s most colourful, leisure craft now cruise the shore and the keep has fragments of
and its sponge cake, pão-de-ló, and the inland waterways, and Roman stonework. The church
is highly esteemed. Tableaux the fishermen’s striped palheiros of Santa Maria de Alcaçova
in the Museu de Ovar recreate (see p26), popular as seaside within its walls was founded
the lifestyle of a bygone era, cottages, are fast vanishing in 1090. Restored in the 15th
alongside displays of regional amid shops, bars and cafés. century, its naves and arches
costume and dolls. There are reflect the Manueline style.
also mementoes of Júlio Dinis, Montemor was the birthplace
a popular Portuguese novelist 6 Figueira da Foz of Fernão Mendes Pinto (1510–
who lived in Ovar in the 1800s. Road map C3. * 63,000. £ @
83), famous for the colourful
n Avenida 25 de Abril (233 422 610). accounts of his travels in the
E Museu de Ovar ( Closed Sun in winter. east. Another explorer, Diogo
Rua Heliodoro Salgado 11. de Azambuja (died 1518), is
Tel 256 572 822. Open Tue–Sat. Lively and cosmopolitan, this buried here. Columbus is said
Closed Sun, Mon, public hols. & popular resort has a busy to have sailed with Azambuja,
marina, a casino and a wide, who intrepidly navigated along
curving beach with breakers the West African coast. His
4 Aveiro that attract intrepid surfers. tomb, by the Manueline master
See pp206–7.
General jollity is the keynote, Diogo Pires, is in the Convento
but the Museu Municipal Dr de Nossa Senhora dos Anjos
Santos Rocha has a notable in the square of the same name
archaeological collection, and (ask at the tourist office for key).
an eclectic display extending Its 17th-century façade hides
to Arraiolos carpets (see p307), an earlier, more lavish interior,
religious art, Indo-Portuguese with Manueline and
furniture, a musical archive, Renaissance influences.
fans and photographs.
The amazing interior of + Castle
the Casa do Paço is lined with Rua do Castelo. Open daily.
8,000 Delft tiles taken from a
shipwreck in the late 1600s.
Fishing boat on the beach at Praia de Mira The 16th-century fortress of
Santa Catarina stands where
5 Praia de Mira the Mondego meets the sea.
The Duke of Wellington briefly
Road map C3. * 5,000. @ n Av
made this little fort his base when
da Barrinha (924 473 751). ( 11, 23
he landed to retake Portugal from
& 30 of month.
Napoleon in 1808 (see p58).
Tourism is only now making an
impact on this stretch of coast E Museu Municipal Dr
backed by a wooded reserve, Santos Rocha
the Mata Nacional das Dunas Rua Calouste Gulbenkian. Tel 233
de Mira. Praia de Mira, with the 402 840. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
dunes and Atlantic on one side 2–7pm Sat (Jul & Aug: 9:30am–6pm
and the peaceful lagoon of Tue–Fri, 2–7pm Sat & Sun). Closed 1
Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec.
Barrinha de Mira on the other, is a
pretty fishing village developing E Casa do Paço
as a resort. High-prowed fishing Largo Professor Vitor Guerra 4 . Tel 233 Enjoying café life in the spring sunshine of
boats are still drawn up the 430 103. Open call ahead of your visit. Figueira da Foz
4 Aveiro A short walk south lies the

Igreja das Carmelitas, its nave
This little city, once a great sea port, has a long history – and chancel decorated with
Aveiro’s salt pans were featured in the will of Countess paintings of the life of the
Mumadona in AD 959. By the 16th century it was a consider Carmelite reformer, St Teresa.
able town, rich from salt and the bacalhoeiros fishing for cod E Museu de Aveiro
off Newfoundland. When storms silted up the harbour in 1575 Ave Santa Joana Princesa. Tel 234
this wealth vanished rapidly, and the town languished beside 423 297. Open 10am–12:30pm, 1:30–
an unhealthy lagoon, the ria. Only in the 19th century did 6pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. &
Aveiro regain some of its prosperity; it is now ringed with
industry and is home to an important university. The ria and The former Mosteiro de Jesus
is full of mementoes of Santa
canals give Aveiro its individual character. Joana, who died here in 1490.
The daughter of Afonso V, Joana
Old Quarter retreated to the convent in 1472
Tucked in between the and spent the rest of her life here.
Canal das Pirâmides She was beatified in 1693 and
and the Canal de São her ornamental Baroque marble
Roque are the neat, tomb, completed 20 years later,
whitewashed houses is in the lower choir. Simpler in
of Aveiro’s fishermen. style are the 18thcentury
In the early morning paintings in the chapel, showing
the focus of activity scenes of her life. This was once
is the Mercado do Peixe, the needlework room where
where the fish from the Bridge across the Canal de São Roque Santa Joana died. Among
night’s catch is auctioned. Portuguese primitive paintings
Skirting the Canal Central, Delgado are the principal his is a 15thcentury fullface portrait
along Rua João de Mendonça, toric buildings of Aveiro. The of the princess in court dress.
are Art Nouveau mansions and Misericórdia church in the Praça Also part of the museum are
some of the many pastelarias da República dates from the the superb gilded chancel
selling Aveiro’s speciality: ovos 16th century, its façade of azulejos (1725–9), 15thcentury cloisters
moles. Literally “soft eggs”, these framing a splendid Mannerist and refectory faced in Coimbra
are a rich confection of portal. In the same square tiles. Between the refectory and
sweetened egg yolk in candied stands the stately 18thcentury chapterhouse lies the Gothic
casings shaped like fish or Paços do Concelho, or town tomb of an armoured knight,
barrels. As so often in Portugal, hall, with its distinctive Tuscan Dom João de Albuquerque.
the original recipe is credited style pilasters.
to nuns. Ovos moles are sold Nearby, opposite the museum, Environs
by weight or in little barrels. is Aveiro’s modest 15thcentury Lying about 8 km (5 miles)
cathedral of São Domingos. The south of Aveiro, at Ílhavo, is the
Across the Canal Central figures of the Three Graces over modern block of the Museu
South of the Canal Central and the door on the Baroque façade Marítimo de Ílhavo, where the
the bustling Praça Humberto were added in 1719. region’s long seafaring history
The Cathedral of Aveiro, also known as the Church of St Dominic, Aveiro

THE BEIRAS  207
About 4 km (2 miles) further VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

south a small sign points to the
Museu da Vista Alegre. A name Practical Information
renowned in the world of Map C3. * 73,500.
porcelain (see p417), the Vista n Rua João Mendonça 8
Alegre factory was established (234 423 680). ( 28 of month.
in 1824, and samples of its fine _ Jul–Aug: Festa da Ria.
porcelain can be bought from Transport
the factory shop. The museum £ Avenida Dr Lourenço
traces the history of the factory, Peixinho. @ Avenida Dr
and has displays of porcelain Lourenço Peixinho. 4 Forte de
(together with some crystal Barra–São Jacinto: daily.
Raking the salt as it dries in the pans glass) from the 1850s to the
fringing the Ria de Aveiro present day.
E Museu da Vista Alegre
is told through displays of E Museu Marítimo de Ílhavo Tel 234 320 628. Open May–
fishing craft and equipment, Avenida Dr Rocha Madahíl. Tel 234 Sep: 10am–7:30pm daily; Oct–Apr
with maritime memorabilia 329 990. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm daily. Closed public hols.
from shells to model boats. 2–6pm Sun. Closed public hols. & 7&
Ria de Aveiro
Porto
Old maritime charts show
no lagoon here, but in 1575 Furadouro •
a terrible storm raised a sand

bar that blocked the harbour. •
Ovar
Denied access to the sea, Aveiro
declined, its population cut
down by the fever bred in the
stagnant waters. It was not until •
Avanca
1808 that the barra nova was •
Pardilhó
created, linking Aveiro once
more to the sea.
The lagoon which remains Intricately painted prow of a
Torreira
moliceiro in the Ria
Ria de A
covers some 65 sq km (25 sq • Estarreja

miles), and is nearly 50 km •
Murtosa
veir o
(30 miles) long, from Furadouro south past

Aveiro’s salt pans and the Reserva Natural
das Dunas de São Jacinto (Nature Reserve
Voug
of São Jacinto) to Costa Nova. The reserve a
includes beaches, dunes and woods as well
as the lagoon, and is home to a large and varied
bird population, including pintails and gos Viseu
hawks. Of the boats seen here, the most São Jacinto •
Aveiro
elegant is the moliceiro. Despite the bright, Ba r ra •
often humorous decoration on its high, curving

prow, this is a working boat, harvesting moliço Costa Nova
•
(seaweed) for fertilizer. Chemical fertilizers Ílhavo

•
have drastically cut demand for moliço, but a Vista Alegre •
few of the stately craft survive; the Festa da

Ria is a chance to see them in full sail.
Figueira
da Foz
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Other road
Salt marsh
The seaward waterfront at the fishing village of Torreira

8 Coimbra
The birthplace of six kings and the seat of Portugal’s oldest
university, Coimbra arouses an affection in the Portuguese
shared by no other city. To the Romans the town founded on
Alcaçova hill was Aeminium, but as its importance grew it took AVEIRO
RU
A
on the mantle and name of nearby Conímbriga (see p214).
H A DO
DO
G
AC NA
E
U
RR
Coimbra was wrested from the Moors in AD 878, only to
M AR
A
ÃO O
JU
come under their control again a century later, until finally
JO A D
Igreja NQ
UE
RU
da Graça IR
freed by Ferdinand the Great of Castile in 1064. When Afonso O
RU
A
R. ALC
Henriques, the first king of Portugal, decided to move his
F
R O ÃO
Bus Station O
SA
200 m ( 220 yards) UA
DA
R Igreja
capital south from Guimarães in 1139 (see pp46–7), his choice LARGO
AO
DE
O
do Carmo
DO JO
RM
was Coimbra, an honour it retained until 1256. For the ARNADO R. A
SO
C
O
FI
D
Portuguese, Coimbra carries the roots of nationhood and,
AV
A
A
RU
RU
A
EN
for visitors, a wealth of fascinating historic associations. DI
IDA
RE
IT
A PRACA 8
FER
IR A DE MAIO
B RE
A Santa Cruz
OC
NÃ
OÃ
Orientation students at Coimbra university. O LE I R
OS A J
R U LARGO
O D
R. VISCONDE
S
R. DO DAS VO
In the historic heart of the city, Beyond Praça 8 de Maio is Rua CÕ R
R. D D A L U Z
OLARIAS O
E
R. D
high above the Mondego, lie da Sofia, the “street of wisdom”,
MA
AS
O
IR
the cathedrals, university and named after the theological
GA
DE
S PA
R. D A
LH
São Tiago
a fine museum, but a first colleges that once stood here.
ÃE
VEI G A
A.
impression of Coimbra is likely The convent churches to which R.
S
PRACA DO
COMERCIO
to be of commerce, not culture. they were attached remain: the Coimbra 'A'
Arco de
RU
Shops, traffic and the railway Igreja do Carmo (1597), with a Almedina
BORGES A
rule the riverside and around 16th-century retable, and the
IR
AV
DA
R. FERRE
EN
the Praça do Comércio. The Igreja da Graça, founded by ID
SO
M A
Largo da Portagem is a useful João III in 1543. The nearby Pátio on
TA
de LARGO
starting point, and river trips da Inquisição is a reminder that AV go DA
PORTAGEM
EN
depart from nearby, alongside Coimbra, like Lisbon and ID EM
A ÍD
the Parque Dr Manuel Braga. Évora, was a seat in the DE IO
E
A
A ED
16th century of
AR
CO
NT NT
CL
NI
the fiercely
M
SA PO
BR
intolerant
ES
IG
A
TR
Inquisition
AD
A
(see p55).
DA
Estádio
GU
Universitário
AS
AR
DA
G
RE
ING
A
S
D
Tomb of Portugal’s first king, Afonso
L ES
ÃO
AV.
A
JO
Henriques, in Santa Cruz ROSSIO A
NID
IN Ê
AVE
DE SANTA
CLARA RU
A
SD
The Lower Town Santa Clara-

DO
E CA
a-Nova
CO
From Largo da Portagem, Rua

STR
NV
Santa Clara-
NACIONAL A
Ferreira Borges leads past shops,

EN
TO
RAD
a-Velha V ELH POMBAL

Portugal
lively bars, restaurants and & LEIRIA
ANTI GA E S T
dos
O
pastelarias to the Praça do Pequenitos
Comércio. In one corner of this

bustling square stands the
church of São Tiago. Its plain
façade is a restoration of the
12th-century original, but inside
is an exuberant Rococo
altarpiece in gilded wood.
Running north of the Praça do
Comércio, Rua Visconde da Luz
leads to the Praça 8 de Maio and
the historic church of Santa Cruz
(see p211). Portugal’s first two
kings are buried here, and monks
from the adjacent monastery of
Santa Cruz tutored the first Café tables in the Praça do Comércio, overlooked by São Tiago
COIMBRA  209
Road map C3. * 143,800.
n Praça da República (939
010 084); Universidade de
Coimbra (239 242 744); Largo
da Portagem (239 488 120).
( Mon–Sat. _ May: Queima
das Fitas.
Transport
£ Coimbra A, Av Emídio
Navarro; Coimbra B, N of city, on
The stunning garden of Quinta das Lagrimas, N11. @ Av Fernão de Magalhães.
ROIO
in Coimbra
N TA R
RUA D E M O RU
L AU R U I F E R N A
R. OLÍM P I O N I CO AN DES AN
TE The tower now houses an arts
Mercado RO
Jardim
da NOV
A AV
EN
DE
QU
and crafts gallery. Among the
E
Manga F O NT ID EN houses lining the maze of steep
RU A D A A TA
EU S SÁ L
R PO
DE D R U A PAD R
E
DA alleys that wind up to the top of
CO AN BA
O JA C
IN TO
LO
R ES TÓ ND
EI
the hill are a number of
OÃ N
F
IO RA
repúblicas, student lodgings
S
DO
J
R.
VI
.D
R UA
EI
R
RUA D O
LO U Sé
RA since medieval times.
R EIR O PRAÇA
Torre de
Anto
Nova Teatro DA
REPÚBLICA
Coimbra’s two cathedrals,
Museu Nacional Académico
Sé Velha and Sé Nova (see
RUA D
LG. DE Gil Vicente Parque

Machado de RA
SÉ NOVA I de Santa
RU
LARGO
Castro VE p210), lie in the shadow of the
OS ESTU
DA SÉ LI Cruz
O OS
A.
VELHA
RUA S. JOÃO
D E AT hilltop university (see pp212–

G
Sé Velha
AR
A M
RU
RE
DOS
13). Beyond is the upper

TT
RUA VENÂNCIO RODRIGUES

LARGO
D.DINIS A
R town’s main square, Praça
RU M
M
RUA S. PED RO
TO da República.
A AT O
CA S
E
D
ST O
Palacio A
RO
dos Grilos ARCOS RU

Velha Aqueduto de DO Across the Mondego
Universidade A São Sebastião JARDIM
CO
URAÇA DE L
IS BO It is worth crossing the river
AV. D R
just to admire the view of old

N Coimbra. The two convents of
. JÚLIO
A
VA
RR Santa Clara (see p211) on the
O
Jardim southern bank have close ties
HENRI
Botânico with Santa Isabel, and with

QUES
Inês de Castro, Pedro I’s luckless

Parque lover, who was stabbed to
Manuel LOUSÃ
Braga
death here in 1355 (see p185).
Coimbra
A romantic legend tells how a
Parque spring, the Fonte dos Amores,
rose on the spot. This can be
seen in the garden of the 18th-
century Quinta das Lágrimas,
now a hotel (see p390), just
Coimbra City Centre south of Santa Clara-a-Velha.
0 metres 200
1 Igreja da Graça
0 yards 200
2 Igreja do Carmo
3 Santa Cruz
4 São Tiago
5 Torre de Anto
The Upper Town
6 Arco de Almedina
The altered and restored
12th-century Arco de Almedina,
7 Sé Velha
off the Rua Ferreira Borges, is
8 Museu Nacional Machado
the gateway to the old city
de Castro
(in Arabic medina means
9 Sé Nova
town). Steps lead up past
0 University the Torre de Anto, whose
q Jardim Botânico Renaissance windows and
w Santa Clara-a-Nova medallions are from the
e Portugal dos Pequenitos workshop of the 16th-century The Arco de Almedina arching over the
r Santa Clara-a-Velha sculptor Jean de Rouen. steps to the upper town
Exploring Coimbra
That the citizens of Coimbra fondly call their river, the
Mondego, “O Rio dos Poetas” gives a clue to the affection they
have for their vibrant and beautiful city. From the university
(see pp212–13) at the top of Alcaçova hill, down the narrow
streets and stairways to the lower town, the city is crammed
with historic buildings and treasures (and, all too often, slow-
moving traffic). Most sights are within walking distance of
each other, and despite its steep hill, Coimbra is a city best
appreciated on foot. Across the Mondego there are further
Elaborate façade of the Sé Nova
historic sights and an unusual theme park for children.
R Sé Nova
king, Afonso Henriques, made Largo da Sé Nova. Tel 239 823 138.
the city of Coimbra his capital Open 9am–6:30pm daily. 5 6pm
and his son, Sancho I, was Mon–Sat, 11am & 7pm Sun. &
crowned here in 1185, soon after New is a relative term, as this
the cathedral was completed. church – a short walk from the
Inside, square piers lead the university – was founded by
eye up the nave to the flam the Jesuits in 1598. (Their
boyant retable over the altar. adjacent Colégio das Onze Mil
The work of Flemish wood Virgens is today part of the
carvers in about 1502, this sciences faculty.) The Jesuit Order
depicts the birth of Christ, the was banned by the Marquês de
Assumption and many saints. Pombal in 1759 (see p56) but
A 16thcentury altarpiece in their church became the epis
the south transept is also highly copal seat in 1772. Jesuit saints
decorated, as is the Manueline still look out from the façade.
The Sé Velha’s gilded altarpiece font, thought to be by Diogo The interior, more spacious
Pires the Younger. In contrast than the Sé Velha, is barrel
R Sé Velha is the quiet restraint of the vaulted, with a dome over
Largo da Sé Velha. Tel 239 825 273. cloister, built in 1218 but the crossing. To the left of the
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 11:30am– restored in the 18th century. entrance is a Manuelinestyle
6pm Sun. 5 6pm Mon–Fri, 7pm Sat The tomb of the city’s first octagonal font brought, like
& 10am Sun. Closed Sun & public Christian governor, Sisinando the choir stalls, from the
hols. & to church and cloister. (a Muslim convert who died in Sé Velha. The paintings
The fortressstyle Old Cathedral 1091), lies in the chapterhouse, above the stalls are copies
is widely regarded as the and in the north aisle is the of Italian masters. The altar
finest Romanesque building tomb of the Byzantine Dona piece in the 17thcentury
in Portugal, a celebration in Vetaça (died 1246), tutor to the chancel, featuring more Jesuit
stone of the triumph over the wife of King Dinis, the saintly saints, is flanked by a pair of
Moors in 1064. The nation’s first Queen Isabel (see p49). 18thcentury organs.
Coimbra seen from the Mondego, with the university’s landmark bell tower crowning Alcaçova hill
COIMBRA  211
E Museu Nacional Machado in 1520. Their elaborate

de Castro tombs are thought to be by
Largo Dr José Rodrigues. Tel 239 Chanterène, also buried here.
853 070. Open 10am–6pm Wed–
Sun, 2–6pm Tue. Closed 1 Jan, Y Jardim Botânico
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Calçada Martim de Freitas. Tel 239 855
first Sun of month). 215. Open Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm
∑ museumachadocastro.pt daily; Apr–Sep: 9am–8pm daily.
The elegant 16th-century loggias These, Portugal’s largest
of the former bishop’s palace are botanical gardens, were created
the setting for the display of some in 1772 when the Marquês de
of Portugal’s finest sculpture. The Pombal introduced the study of
museum is named after master natural history at the University
sculptor Joaquim Machado de of Coimbra.
Castro (1731–1822). Among the The entrance, near the
medieval pieces is an endearing 16th-century aqueduct of São Open-air study in the Jardim Botânico
knight holding a mace. Also in Sebastião, leads into 20 ha
the collection, along with (50 acres) devoted to a remark- Baroque church, pride of place
furnishings and vestments, are able collection of some 1,200 is given to the silver tomb of
paintings from the 12th to 20th plants, including many rare and Santa Isabel, installed in 1696
centuries, including the exotic species. The gardens are and paid for by the people of
Assumption of Mary Magdalen used for research, but are laid Coimbra. The saint’s original
by the Master of Sardoal. out as pleasure gardens, with tomb, a single stone, lies in the
An intriguing feature is the greenhouses and a wild area lower choir and polychrome
Criptoportico de Aeminium, a overlooking the Mondego. wooden panels in the aisles
maze of underground passages tell the story of her life. The
holding a collection of Roman R Santa Clara-a-Velha convent’s large cloister, built by
sculpture and stelae and Santa Clara. Tel 239 801 160. Open the Hungarian Carlos Mardel,
Visigothic artifacts. 10am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm in was contributed in 1733 by
winter). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. João V, a generous benefactor
& (free first Sun of month). who was well-known for his
Santa Isabel, the widow of King charity to nuns.
Dinis, had the convent of Santa
Clara rebuilt for her retreat.  Portugal dos Pequenitos
She died in 1336 in Estremoz Santa Clara. Tel 239 801 170. Open
(see p306) but was buried here. daily. Mid-Oct–Feb: 10am–5pm;
Inês de Castro was also laid Mar–May: 10am–7pm; Jun–mid-Sep:
to rest here 20 years later, but 9am–8pm; mid-Sep–mid-Oct:
was re-entombed at Alcobaça 10am–7pm. Closed 25 Dec. & 7
∑ portugaldospequenitos.pt
Claustro do Silêncio (Cloister of Silence) in (see pp184–5).
the monastery of Santa Cruz Almost from the day it was At this world in miniature,
built, Santa Clara suffered from children and adults alike can
R Santa Cruz flooding; it was finally aban- explore scaled-down versions
Praça 8 de Maio. Tel 239 822 941. Open doned in 1677. In 1696 Santa of Portugal’s finest national
9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–noon & 2– Isabel’s remains were moved to buildings, whole villages of
5pm Sat, 4–5:30pm Sun. & to cloister. the Convent of Santa Clara-a- typical regional architecture,
Founded by the canons of Nova. The original Gothic church, and pagodas and temples
St Augustine in 1131, the in silted ruins since the late representing the far-flung
church and monastery of Santa 1600s, has at last been restored. reaches of the former
Cruz are rich in examples of the Portuguese empire.
city’s early 16th-century school R Santa Clara-a-Nova
of sculpture. Carvings by Alto de Santa Clara. Tel 239 441 674.
Nicolau Chanterène and Jean Open 9am–6pm daily (Apr–Sep:
de Rouen adorn the church’s to 7pm). &
Portal da Majestade, designed The vast “new” convent of the
by Diogo de Castilho in 1523. Poor Clares was built between
The chapterhouse by Diogo 1649 and 1677 to house the
Boitac is Manueline in style, as nuns from Santa Clara-a-Velha
are the Claustro do Silêncio on drier land uphill. The building
and the choir stalls, carved was designed by a mathematics
in 1518 with a frieze about professor, João Turriano, and
exploration. Portugal’s first two although intended as a convent,
kings, Afonso Henriques and now serves in part as a barracks Child-sized model of an Algarve manor
Sancho I, were reinterred here for the army. In the richly house in Portugal dos Pequenitos
Coimbra University
In 1290 King Dinis founded a university in Lisbon,
one of the world’s oldest and most illustrious. In
1537 it was transferred to Coimbra and located
in what used to be King Afonso’s palace. Study
was mostly of theology, medicine and law until
the reforms by the Marquês de Pombal in the 1770s
broadened the curriculum. Several 19th-century Museu de Arte Sacra
literary figures, including Eça de Queirós (see p59), As well as works of art on religious
were alumni of Coimbra. Many buildings were themes, this museum has vestments,
chalices and books of early sacred
replaced after the 1940s, but the halls around the
music. It is currently closed.
Pátio das Escolas echo with 700 years of learning.
Coimbra University is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
. Capela de São Miguel

Although begun in 1517 the
chapel’s interior is mostly 17th
and 18th century. The azulejos,
ornate walls, even the fine
Mannerist altar, are eclipsed
by the dazzling organ, with
angels trumpeting its
Baroque glory.
KEY
1 Portrait of João V (c.1730)

2 The portal of Capela de São
Miguel is Manueline in style, the
work of Marcos Pires before his
death in 1521.
3 The bell tower, symbol of the
university, can be seen from all over
the city. The best known of its three
bells, called a cabra, the goat, has
summoned generations of students
to lectures since the tower was
completed in 1733.
4 The Via Latina is a colonnaded
walkway added to the original palace
in the 18th century. The Portuguese
coat of arms above the double . Biblioteca Joanina
staircase is crowned by a statue of Named after its benefactor,
Wisdom, while below, figures of João V (whose coat of arms
Justice and Fortitude flank José I, is over the door), the library
in whose reign (1750–77) the was built in the early 18th
Marquês de Pombal modernized century. Its rooms, rich in
the university. gilt and exotic wood, are
lined with 300,000 books.
COIMBRA  213
Sala Grande dos Actos

Also known as the Sala
dos Capelos, this is
where major events
Universidade de Coimbra, Paço
such as investitures
das Escolas. Tel 239 859 884.
are celebrated. Dons’
Open summer: 9am-7:30pm;
benches line the walls
winter: 9am–1pm & 2–5pm.
below portraits of
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
Portuguese monarchs.
& - ∑ visit.uc.pt
Transport
@ 103 from train station.
Sala do Exame Privado

José Ferreira Araújo’s
exuberant ceiling, painted To Ticket
in 1701, arcs above a frieze Office
of portraits of past rectors in
the private examination hall.
Student Traditions
When the university was first founded, the
only subjects studied were canon and civil
law, medicine and letters – grammar and
philosophy. To indicate which faculty they
belonged to, students began to pin
coloured ribbons to their gowns: red
for law, yellow for medicine, dark blue
for letters. Much has changed in 700 Porta Férrea
years, but students are still initiated in Built in 1634, this
rites whose origins are long forgotten, heavy iron gate to
and in May, as the academic year ends, the university pátio
there is a ceremonial burning of ribbons, Burning faculty ribbons in best is flanked by figures
the Queima das Fitas. scholastic tradition representing the
original faculties.
9 Conímbriga This opulent villa, known as the

Road map C3. 2 km (1 mile) S of Casa de Cantaber, is built around
Condeixa-a-Nova. @ from Coimbra. ornamental pools in colonnaded
Site: Open 10am–7pm daily. gardens, with its own bath com-
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter Sun, plex and a sophisticated heating
25 Dec. Museum: Tel 239 941 177. system. Some of the fine mosaics
Open 10am–7pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, in the museum probably came
1 May, Easter Sun, 25 Dec. from this huge residence.
& 7 museum only. The Casa das Fontes, dating
from the early 2nd century, is
This, the largest and most under a protective cover but
extensively excavated Roman site walkways provide good views.
in Portugal (see pp44–5), was on Its mosaics and fountains, rare
the Roman road between Lisbon survivals, which give the house
(Olisipo) and Braga (Bracara its name, form a strong image of
Augusta). There is evidence of the Roman taste for good living. View of the church of São Miguel within the
Roman habitation here as early The city’s pools, and the baths castle walls at Penela
as the 2nd century BC, but even and steam rooms of Trajan’s
before this time there was a thermae, were fed by a spring 0 Penela
Celtic settle- 3.5 km (2 miles) away Road map C3. * 6,500. @ n Praça
ment here. via a mostly subter- do Município (239 560 120). ( Thu.
Under the ranean aqueduct.
Roman emperor Official excavation Penela’s thickset castle was built
Augustus, from was begun here in in 1087 by Sisinando, governor
about 25 BC, 1912, but a consider- of Coimbra, as part of the line
Conímbriga able part of the 13-ha of defences of the Mondego
became a sub- (32-acre) site has yet valley. Its squat towers provide
stantial town: Detail of a bedroom floor in a house to be explored, wonderful views over the
baths, a near the entrance including an amphi- village and, to the east, of
forum and the theatre north of the the wooded Serra da Lousã.
aqueduct have been uncovered city. In the 3rd or early 4th cent- The church within the castle
from this era. The finest build- ury, buildings were plundered walls, São Miguel, dates back
ings, however, date from the for stone as defensive walls were to the 16th century. Below,
2nd and 3rd centuries AD, and hastily raised against Barbarian in Penela itself, Santa Eufémia,
they provide a vivid image of a hordes. In a successful assault dated 1551 above its decorative
prosperous city. in AD 468, the Suevi burned doorway, has a Roman capital
The site is approached along the city and murdered the in- used as a font.
a section of Roman road that habitants. Excavated skeletons
led into the city from the east. may date from this episode. Environs
Just to the left cluster the out- An informative museum Among walnut and olive groves
lines of shops, baths and two explains the history and layout 5 km (3 miles) to the west, is the
once-luxurious houses, both of the site, and has exhibits of tiny village of Rabaçal, whose
with exquisite mosaic floors. Roman busts, mosaics and tasty cheese, made with a
At Conímbriga is one of the coins alongside more ancient mixture of sheep’s and goat’s
largest houses discovered in Celtic artifacts. There is also a milk, is a regional speciality.
the western Roman empire. restaurant and picnic site. Some village women still
mature the cheese rounds in
darkened rooms in their homes.
q Lousã
Road map C3. * 16,700. £ @
n Rua João Luso (239 990 040).
( Tue & Sat.
The paper factory at Lousã, on

the forested banks of the River
Arouce, was opened in 1716
and is still working. Skilled
papermakers imported from
Italy and Germany by the
Marquês de Pombal (see p56)
brought prosperity, still evident
The central garden of the Casa das Fontes in Conímbriga in the handsome 18th-century
THE BEIRAS  215
Environs
Between Luso and Curia,
Mealhada is an attractive small
town in the heart of a region
famous for leitão, suckling pig.
This enormously popular dish
is prominently advertised at
numerous hotly competing
restaurants in the area.
r Arganil
Road map D3. * 13,300. @
n Avenida das Forças Armadas
(235 200 137). ( Thu.
Tradition says that this was a

Roman city called Argos. In the
The castle at Arouce, near Lousã, oddly defenceless in its deep valley 12th century, Dona Teresa,
the mother of Afonso Henriques
houses. Most elegant of these a focus for tourism. The thermal (see pp46–7), gave the town to
is the Palácio dos Salazares, a waters, which originate from a the bishopric of Coimbra, whose
private home in Rua Viscon spring below the Capela de incumbent also acquired the
dessa do Espinhal. Also notable São João, are said to be of title of Conde de Arganil. Most
is the Misericórdia, with a therapeutic value in the of the town’s architecture is
1568 Renaissance portal, in treatment of a wide range unremarkable, but the church of
Rua do Comércio. of conditions, from São Gens, the Igreja Matriz
bad circulation in Rua de Visconde de
Environs and muscle tone Frias, dates back perhaps
Deep in a valley, 3 km (2 miles) to renal problems to the 14th century.
south of Lousã, is the Castelo de and rheumatism.
Arouce. Legend says it was built There are a number Environs
in the 11th century by a King of grand, if somewhat One of the most curious
Arunce who took refuge in the faded, hotels here, and local sights is kept in the
valley when fleeing from raiders. an elegant Art Nouveau sanctuary of Mont’Alto, 3 km
Permission to visit the castle is lobby adorns the (2 miles) above the town.
available from the town hall. former casino, but Here, the Capela do
Near the castle are the three the main reason for Senhor da Ladeira
shrines of the Santuário de visiting the resort is to Menino Jesus in Mont’ harbours the Menino
Nossa Senhora da Piedade. enjoy its spa facilities. Alto sanctuary, Arganil Jesus, a Christ Child
A viewpoint on the tortuous An additional attraction figure in a bicorne hat
road south towards Castanheira of Luso is the proximity of the (part of a full wardrobe). He
de Pêra gives a splendid view treasured national forest of comes out for festas but the
across the valley. A turning east Buçaco, which is a powerful chapel key is otherwise available
leads up to Alto do Trevim which, presence above the town. from the last house on the right.
at 1,204 m (3,950 ft), is the highest
point in the Serra de Lousã.
Thermal Spas
In response to the Portuguese
w Buçaco enthusiasm for thermal waters and
See pp216–17. healthorientated holidays, spa
resorts have developed across the
northern half of the country, with
e Luso several of them in the Beiras, near
Luso. All offer extensive sports
Road map C3. * 3,000. @ n Rua facilities and a calm ambience
Emídio Navarro 136 (231 939 133). as well as treatments for all the
( daily. body’s major systems. Most spas
close for the winter, but Curia,
In the 11th century Luso 16 km (10 miles) northwest of
was just a village linked to a Luso, is open all year for relaxation
monastery at Vacariça, but it and treatments. Luso itself
developed into a lively spa Taking the spa waters at the Fonte de produces the country’s best
town in the 18th century as São João, Luso known bottled mineral water.
its hotwater springs became
w Buçaco
Part ancient woodland, part arboretum, the National
Forest of Buçaco is a magic place. As early as the
6th century it was a monastic retreat, and in 1628 the
Carmelites built a monastery here, walling in the forest to
keep the world at bay (women had already been banned
by the pope in 1622). In their secluded forest the monks
established contemplative walks, chapels – and trees.
The trees, added to by Portuguese explorers, gained
papal protection in 1632, and the 105 ha (260 acres) . Fonte Fria
contain some 700 native and exotic species, including This impressive cascade, fed by
the venerable “Buçaco cedar”. The peace of the forest the greatest of the forest’s six
was disturbed in 1810 as British and Portuguese troops springs, tumbles down to a
magnolia-fringed pool.
fought the French on
Buçaco ridge. In 1834 the
monastery closed, but the
so
Lu
forest endures, with its
shady walks, hermits’
grottoes and the
astonishing Bussaco
Palace Hotel at its centre. Luso
J
os
Fet
dos
Rua
KEY
1 The Portas de Coimbra J

incorporate the papal bulls
defending the trees and forbidding
Avenida do
entry to women.
2 Porta dos Degraus and steps
leading to Luso
3 Tasmanian eucalyptus (1876)
4 The Porta da Rainha was made J
for Catherine of Bragança, but when
her visit in 1693 was cancelled the
gateway was sealed up for 11 years.
Vale dos Fetos
5 The Museu Militar is devoted to Leading down to a small lake,
the Peninsular War. the Valley of Ferns is lined with
6 The Monument to the Battle luxuriant specimens collected
of Buçaco marks Wellington’s worldwide. The magnificent
victory on the ridge of Buçaco on tree ferns give the valley a
27 September 1810. As the nearby tropical air.
Museu Militar explains, this decisive
battle halted the French march
on Coimbra.
7 Porta da Cruz Alta
8 Cruz Alta, the forest’s highest
point, has glorious views as far as Key
the sea.
Wall
9 The Buçaco cedar, now 28 m
(92 ft) high, is believed to have been Route of Via Sacra
planted in 1644.
THE BEIRAS  217
Monastery
Only the cloisters,
chapel and a few
monks’ cells of the
Road map C3. 3 km (2 miles)
Carmelite monastery
SE of Luso. n Luso (231 939
remain. A plaque
133).Open 9am–6pm (last adm:
records that
5pm). Forest: Open daily. & for
Wellington slept
vehicles all year round. Museu
in one of the
Militar: Almas do Encarnadouro.
cork-lined cells.
Tel 231 937 000. Open Tue–Sun.
& 7 _ 27 Sep: Anniversary of
Battle of Buçaco.
∑ fmb.pt
Transport
@
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
. Bussaco Palace Hotel

ainha
Completed in 1907, the Neo-

Manueline folly of a hunting lodge
Rua da R
built by Luigi Manini includes

murals and tiles by prominent
artists. Azulejos in the hall feature
scenes of the Battle of Buçaco.
Bussaco Palace Hotel

iro
ste
Mo
King Carlos, who commissioned
this extravaganza in 1888, never
lived to see his creation. His son,
Manuel II, visited only briefly
before his exile in 1910 (see p59) –
he is said to have brought the
French actress, Gaby Deslys, here
for a romantic interlude. Its rebirth
as a luxury hotel, serving its own
renowned wines, was the
inspiration of the royal chef and it
became a fashionable rendezvous
for socialites; in World War II
J it was also rumoured
to be frequented
by spies. It is
now one of the
great hotels
of Portugal
(see p390).
Via Sacra Gaby Deslys, with

Chapels containing life-size whom Manuel II
figures mark the Stations of the reputedly had a
Cross along this winding path-
brief romance
way. They were installed by the
Bishop of Coimbra in 1693.
For additonal map symbols see back flap
The village of Piódão, blending with the granite of the surrounding Serra de Açor
t Piódão in a large tomb surmounted by known today for two very

a charming equestrian statue. disparate museums in a
Road map D3. * 60. @ to Coja
20 km (12 miles) away. n Largo Today, this lively industrial town single institutional block.
Cónego Manuel Fernando Nogueira is perfectly situated for In the Museu do Caramulo,
(235 732 787). exploring the valleys of the the exhibits range from 16th
Mondego and the Alva. century Flemish tapestries,
The Serra de Açor (Hills of the sculpture, porcelain, silver and
Goshawk) is a place of bleak Environs ivory to Egyptian bronzes from
beauty, where solitary villages At Lourosa, 12 km (7 miles) to 1580 to 900 BC. The paintings
cling to precipitous terraces. the southwest, the 10thcentury are as varied: from Portuguese
Piódão is the most striking of church of São Pedro reflects primitives to the 20th century.
these dark schist and slate the changing fate of Portugal Chagall and Dalí are represented,
hamlets. Seemingly remote, over the centuries. A cemetery as is the Portuguese Maria
Piódão was, until the late 1800s, excavated beneath the church Helena Vieira da Silva (1908–92).
on the main commercial route dates from the Roman era; One of Picasso’s still lifes was
from Coimbra to Covilhã, but the porch is Visigothic, while donated by the artist in 1947.
with newer roads the village was inside are ten impressive The collection in the Museu
forgotten. With help from EU Roman arches and an ajimene do Automóvel is just as eclectic:
funding, it is coming back to life: (Moorish window). a working 1899 Peugeot,
shops are opening, houses are Bugattis and RollsRoyces, and
being repainted with traditional a bulletproof 1938 Mercedes
blue trim, and in the main square u Caramulo Benz ordered for Salazar when
the bright white Igreja Matriz Road map C3. * 2,000. @ he was prime minister (see
stands out against the surround n Avenida Dr Jerónimo de Lacerda pp60–61) but never used.
ing dark stone. Happily, Piódão 750 (232 861 437).
retains its oldworld charm. E Museu do Caramulo
In a grassy rolling serra west of (Fundação Abel e João de
Viseu, this small town was once, Lacerda) and Museu do
y Oliveira do with its clear mountain air, a Automóvel
Hospital centre for sanatoria. It is better Caramulo. Tel 232 861 270. Open
10am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun (Oct–
Road map D3. * 22,000. @ Mar: to 5pm). Closed Easter Sun, 24
n Casa da Cultura, Rua do Colégio Dec, 25 Dec am. &
(238 605 244). ( 2nd Mon & last Sun
of month.
Environs
These lands once belonged to From the museum the road
the Knights Hospitallers, a gift winds southwest up to two
in 1120 from the mother of viewpoints and picnic spots in
Afonso Henriques. The 13th the Serra do Caramulo. About
century Igreja Matriz in Largo 4 km (2 miles) from Caramulo
Ribeira do Amaral houses a are the wildflower pastures
magnificent reminder of the of Cabeça da Neve, at 970 m
era of these warrior monks. (3,200 ft). A little further on,
One of the founders of the Interior of São Pedro at Lourosa, near signposted to the West, is the
town, Domingues Joanes, lies Oliveira do Hospital boulderstrewn upland of
THE BEIRAS  219
Caramulinho, rising to 1,074 m

(3,524 ft). The views from here
are magnificent.
i Viseu
Road map D3. * 19,500. @
n Casa do Adro, Adro da Sé
(232 420 950). ( Tue.
An enthralling old town is at

the heart of this lively regional
capital. Viseu has been a major
northern crossroads since the
time of the Romans and is
the centre of the Dão wine-
growing region (see p33).
This was the home town
of one of Portugal’s great
16th-century artists, Grão Vasco,
whose name graces a hotel, a The graceful Rococo façade of the church of the Misericórdia, Viseu
museum, even a wine label.
On the western side of the old a Manueline frontage that the marked influence of Flemish
town is the striking 15th-century fell down in 1635. Inside, the painters. On the top floor of
Porta do Soar de Cima, a vaulted roof is supported by the three-storey museum
remnant of the original walls. 16th-century knotted ribs on are the masterpieces that once
In the Rossio, the main square, 13th-century columns. In the adorned the cathedral’s chancel
the Igreja dos Terceiros de São north chapel are fine azulejos altarpiece, including Grão Vasco’s
Francisco (1773) has an Italianate from the 18th century, while monumental St Peter and, from
façade and gilded interior. those in the two-storey cloister a series of 14 panels on the life
The 1887 town hall on the west date from a century earlier. The of Christ, The Adoration of the
side has a grand stairway and sacristy has a lavishly painted Magi. Painted around 1503–5,
azulejos relating the history of ceiling and early “carpet” tiles it is memorable for the inclusion
Viseu and its personalities. Just (see p30). In the chancel, choir of a Brazilian Indian among
north is Rua Augusto Hilário, stalls in Brazilian jacaranda those paying homage to the
named after the originator of contrast with a startling modern newborn Christ (see p52). Some
Coimbra-style fado (see pp68–9) altar, an inverted pyramid in of the other panels are thought
who was born here. polished granite and steel. to be by fellow artists in the
The Sé’s treasury, housed in Viseu School.
the chapterhouse, includes a Among other masterpieces
12th-century Gospel and a here are works by Grão Vasco’s
13th-century Limoges coffer. great rival, Gaspar Vaz, including
Facing the cathedral is the a Last Supper. On the lower
Misericórdia church, with its floors are works by Portuguese
18th-century Rococo façade. It artists from the 19th and 20th
houses a permanent exhibition centuries, including Columbano
from the Museu de Grão Vasco. Bordalo Pinheiro.
E Museu de Grão Vasco

Largo da Sé. Tel 232 422 049. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun (from 2pm Tue).
The two-towered 17th-century façade of Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec.
Viseu’s cathedral & (free first Sun of month).
In the 16th-century former
R Sé bishops’ palace abutting the
Largo da Sé. Tel 232 436 065. cathedral is the Museu de Grão
Open 9am–noon & 2–6pm daily. Vasco, Viseu’s “great Vasco”. The
Viseu’s cathedral still retains a paintings of Vasco Fernandes
few Romanesque features, but (c.1475–1540) and his fellow
it has been altered over the artists of the Viseu School are
centuries in a variety of styles highly esteemed for their natural-
which work together sur- ism, background landscapes,
prisingly well. The façade is a drapery and attention to detail. St Peter (1530–5) by Vasco Fernandes in
17th-century replacement of Their treatment of light betrays the Museu de Grão Vasco, Viseu
o Sernancelhe
Road map D2. * 6,200. @ n Town
Hall (254 598 300). ( every other Thu.
Small whitewashed houses

cluster around the granite heart
of this modest Beira town which
was established on the banks of
the Távora in the 10th century.
In the central Praça da República
stands the Romanesque Igreja
Matriz. The granite statues in its
façade niches, survivors from
the 12th century, flank a notable The main gateway into the old walled town of Trancoso
arched portal embellished by a
semicircle of carved angels. The The castle at Penedono is p Trancoso
pillory that stands across the captivating. Perched on rocks
Road map D2. * 6,000. @
square is dated 1554. in the middle of this small town n
Largo das Portas d’El Rei 2
The grandest house here is 17 km (11 miles) northeast of (271 811 147). ( Fri.
the Baroque Solar dos Carvalhos Sernancelhe, it has survived
behind the church. Long and since at least the 10th century. When King Dinis married Isabel
low, with carved granite portals The castle is mentioned in the here in 1283 (see pp48–9), he
against whitewashed medieval tale of a knight gave her Trancoso as a wedding
walls, it is where the known as O Magriço, gift. He was also responsible for
local noble family who went to the walls that still encircle the
lived in the 18th England with town and, in 1304, established
century. It is still 11 other knights here the first unrestricted fair in
a private house. to joust in Portugal. Left in peace after
Only a few honour of 12 1385, the town became a lively
stubs of castle Carved arch over the portal of the English ladies. commercial centre. Trancoso
wall remain on Igreja Matriz, Sernancelhe There is little to once had a large Jewish
the rocky outcrop see inside the population; in the old Judiaria,
overlooking the square, but a castle – if closed, the key is in houses survive with one broad
small battlemented house has the store beside the pelourinho and one narrow door, separating
been built into them. (pillory), but there are splendid domestic life from commerce.
views from the walls. From the southern gate, Rua da
Environs Corredoura leads to São Pedro,
In the Serra da Lapa, which rises R Santuário da Nossa Senhora restored after 1720. A tombstone
to the south of Sernancelhe, da Lapa in the church commemorates
stands a popular shrine Quintela da Lapa, 11 km (7 miles) Gonçalo Anes, a local shoe
known as the Santuário da SW of Sernancelhe. Tel 232 688 993. maker who, in the 1580s, wrote
Nossa Senhora da Lapa. Open daily. the celebrated Trovas under
The story tells of a mute the name of Bandarra. These
shepherd girl, Joana, prophesied the return of the
who found a statue of young King Sebastião (see p109).
the Virgin Mary on a
great boulder and took Environs
it home. Irritated, her Tumbledown ruins above a
mother threw it on the humble village are all that
fire, at which moment remain of the medieval citadel
the child miraculously of Marialva, 14 km (9 miles) to
spoke: “Don’t burn it,” the northeast of Trancoso.
cried Joana. “It is the Granite walls, fragments of
Senhora da Lapa.” stone carvings and a striking
A chapel was built to 15thcentury pillory emanate an
enshrine the boulder, aura of lost grandeur. Probably
and the image, now founded by Ferdinand of León
with a slightly scorched and Castile early in the 11th
face, looks down from century and fortified by Sancho I,
an ornamental recess. Marialva fell into ruin. It is not
The space below her known why. No battle destroyed
niche is packed with it; it seems merely to have been
images and offerings left The castle of Penedono, near Sernancelhe, with its abandoned as townsfolk moved
by pilgrims. imposing medieval battlements to more fruitful lands.
THE BEIRAS  221
Serra Cheese
s Almeida
Road map E2. * 1,500. @ n
Serra, made from the milk of ewes grazing in the Serra da Estrela Portas de São Francisco (271 570 020).
(see pp224–5), is Portugal’s finest cheese. It is made in the winter – ( 8th day & last Sat of month.
its success was once governed by the temperature of the women’s
hands as they worked in their cool granite kitchens – and traditionally Formidable defences in the
the milk is coagulated with flor do cardo, thistle. Now the small factories form of a 12-pointed star guard
producing the cheese, in rounds of 1.5–2 kg (about 3–5 lb), are certified this small, delightfully preserved
to ensure quality and authenticity (fakes are not uncommon). At room border town.
temperature Serra becomes runny. The cheese is scooped out with a
Almeida was recognized by
spoon through a hole cut into the top.
Spain as Portuguese territory
under the Alcañices Treaty on
12 September 1297, but this did
not stop further incursions. The
present Vauban-style strong-
hold (see p303) was designed
in 1641 by Antoine Deville
after Spain’s Philip IV, in post-
Restoration rage, destroyed the
earlier defences protecting the
town and its medieval castle.
From 1742 to 1743 Almeida
was in Spanish hands again, and
then during the Peninsular War
was held in turn by the French
A shepherd with his flock on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela under Masséna and the British
under the Duke of Wellington. In
1810, a French shell lit a powder
a Celorico da Beira which is manifested in a trail that destroyed the castle.
Road map D3. * 8,800. £ @ n
cluster of granite houses with To breach the town’s fortifi-
Rua Sacadura Cabral (271 742 109). Manueline windows and cations today, it is necessary to
_ cheese festival: Feb & Mar. Gothic doors. cross a bridge and pass through
Of the 10th-century castle, a tunnel. The underground
In the lee of the Serra da Estrela, battered by a long succession casamatas, soldiers’ barracks,
the pastures around Celorico of frontier disputes with Spain, can be visited and an armoury
da Beira have long been a only a tower and the outer in the main gateway, the Portas
source of the region’s famous walls remain. Its stark silhouette de São Francisco, holds further
Serra cheese. From November is less dramatic at close quarters. mementoes of Almeida’s military
to February a cheese market is The Igreja Matriz, which was past. In the town itself are a 17th-
held in the Praça Municipal, restored in the 18th century, century parish church and a
and there is a cheese fair every has a painted coffered ceiling. Misericórdia church of a similar
February. Around Rua Fernão During the Peninsular War, age, attached to one of Portugal’s
Pacheco, running from the the church served briefly as a oldest almshouses. A walk
main road up to the castle, is makeshift hospital for the around the grassy walls gives
the old centre of Celorico, English forces. rewarding views of the town.
Almeida’s complex fortifications, still discernible despite the incursion of grass and wild flowers
d Border Castles Tour

Defending Portugal’s frontiers was a vital priority of the
nation’s early kings. The greatest period of castle-building
was in the reign of King Dinis (1279–1325). All along the
shakily held border, Spanish incursions were frequent and
loyalties divided. Castles were constantly being assaulted,
besieged and rebuilt, and the 20 that survived are a lasting
reminder of this long period of dispute. Much of the terrain,
especially in the Serra da Marofa, is bleak and rocky, but near
Pinhel and beyond Castelo
Mendo the scenic valley of Vila Nova
2 Castelo Rodrigo
the River Côa provides a de Foz This tiny fortified village still
dramatic backdrop. Côa
has its encircling walls built
by King Dinis in 1296. But the
a fine palace of its lord, the
3 Figueira de ra D
S e ra r o f a Spanish sympathizer Cristóvão
Castelo Rodrigo
J
M
de Moura, was burnt down
J
From the 18th century,

Castelo Rodrigo was at the Restoration in 1640
largely abandoned in (see pp54–5).
favour of less isolated
Figueira, now a flourishing 1 Almeida
little town known for its The town’s star-shaped
defences are a finely
Côa
almond blossom. Just to

the south, topped by a preserved example of the
huge stone Christ the complex but effective
King, is the highest point style of fortifications
of the Serra da Marofa, developed by the French
977 m (3,205 ft). engineer, Vauban, in the
17th century (see p303).
Vale J
Verde
Aldeia
Nova
Tour ra
ões
ei
Rib
de
Salamanca
Vilar
4 Pinhel
Formoso Fuentes
Part of the region’s defences Guarda
de Oñoro
since Roman times, Pinhel
formed the fulcrum for a
Sabugal
network of fortresses, and in
the early 14th century King
Dinis built it up into an
impressive citadel. Much of
this ring of walls survives, as Key
do two towers.
Tour route
Other roads
International boundary
Tips for Drivers
Length: 115 km (72 miles).
Stopping-off points: Most
villages have cafés, and Pinhel 5 Castelo Mendo
and Almeida have restaurants. Beyond the main gate, guarded
Road conditions: The tour uses by two stone boars, little survives
well-surfaced roads; short cuts 0 kilometres 10 of the castle here, but the distant
are deceptive and not recom- 0 miles 5
views make its role as a frontier
mended. (See also pp444–5.) fort easy to appreciate.

THE BEIRAS  223
E Museu de Guarda
Rua Alves Roçadas 30. Tel 271 213
460. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public
holidays. & (free first Sun of month).
g Serra da Estrela
See pp224–5.
h Belmonte
Road map D3. * 3,500. £ @
n Castelo de Belmonte (275 911
488). ( 1st & 3rd Mon of month.
Belmonte was for generations

the fiefdom of the heroic Cabral
family. Pedro Álvares Cabral, the
first navigator to land in Brazil,
The soaring triple-aisled interior of Guarda’s Gothic cathedral had forebears who fought at
Ceuta (see p52) and Aljubarrota
f Guarda church of São Vicente, which (see p189). Fernão, an earlier
Road map D3. * 26,000. £ @
has 16 elaborate azulejo panels ancestor, was famed for his feats
n Praça Luís de Camões (271 205 depicting the life of Christ. of strength. The family crest,
530). ( 1st & 3rd Wed of month. Guarda used to support a incorporating a goat (cabra),
thriving Jewish community, can be seen in the castle and
Spread over a bleak hill on the which was founded in adjacent chapel. The castle,
northeast flank of the Serra da the beginning of the 13th begun in 1266, retains its keep
Estrela, Guarda is Portugal’s century. History and a Manueline
highest city, at 1,056 m (3,465 ft). records that João I, window added later.
Founded in 1199 by Sancho I, on a visit to Guarda, The little church of
the city’s original role as frontier was smitten by Inês São Tiago nearby
guard explains its name and its Fernandes, the beau has preserved its
rather forbidding countenance. tiful daughter of a Romanesque sim
Some of its arcaded streets Jewish shoemaker. plicity: the frescoes
and squares are lively and inter From their liaison a above the altar
esting, but the great fortresslike son, Afonso, was and, in a tiny side
Sé, with its flying buttresses, born. In 1442 the Cabral family crest in the chapel, a granite
pinnacles and gargoyles, could title of first Duke of chapel, Belmonte pietà date from the
never be described as lovely. Bragança was 13th century. Beside
Master architects who worked bestowed on Afonso, and the church is the 15thcentury
on the cathedral, begun in 200 years later his descendant Capela dos Cabrais which holds
1390 and completed in 1540, would take the throne as the Cabral family tombs.
included Diogo Boitac (from João IV, first of the Bragança The modern Igreja da Sagrada
1504 to 1517) and the builders monarchs (see p305). Família (1940) is the repository
of Batalha (see pp188–9). The for a treasured statue of Nossa
interior, by contrast, is light and Senhora da Esperança said to
graceful. The 100 carved figures have accompanied Cabral on
high on the altarpiece in the his voyage to Brazil. The Museu
chancel were worked by Jean Judaico de Belmonte charts
de Rouen in 1552. the development of the Jewish
On display in the nearby community in the region.
Museu de Guarda are two
floors of paintings, artifacts, E Museu Judaico de Belmonte
archaeological discoveries and a Rua da Portela 4. Tel 275 088 698.
section on the city’s own poet, Open Tue–Sun.
Augusto Gil (1873–1929).
From the cathedral square, Environs
Rua do Comércio leads down to Northeast of Belmonte is the
the 17thcentury Misericórdia Roman Centum Cellas, also
church. Inside the ornamental called Torre de Colmeal. It is
portal are Baroque altars and not known what the role of this
pulpits. Just north of the square, threestoreyed structure
cathedral, in the historic town Centum Cellas, a curious Roman landmark was – maybe a hostel or military
centre, is the 18thcentury near Belmonte base, a mansion or a temple.
g Serra da Estrela
These “star mountains” are the highest range on mainland
Portugal, with much of the Serra over 1,500 m (5,000 ft).
The highest point rises to 1,993 m (6,539 ft) but is topped
by a small stone tower – the Torre – to “stretch” it to 2,000 m.
The exposed granite of the upper slopes is good for little but
grazing sheep, and stone shepherds’ huts form part of the
landscape, their thatched roofs renewed each year after the
harsh winter. Sheep have shaped the fortunes of the area,
providing wool for a textile industry and supplying milk for
Portugal’s best-known cheese. A designated nature reserve,
the Serra’s long-distance paths and stunning flora attract Cabeça do Velho
The granite of the mountain tops
walkers and nature enthusiasts, while a winter snowfall
has been eroded into many weird
brings skiers to the slopes around Torre. shapes, such as this “old man’s
head” near Sabugueiro. It is
matched by an “old woman’s head”
south of Seia.
Viseu
Serra Cheese Shop

The best Serra cheese, prized Gouveia •
for its rich flavour (see p221),

is still made by hand. Farmers
sell their produce at cheese
fairs and at stalls or small
shops such as this one near
the summit of Torre. Cabeca do
Viseu
Velho
Seia
J
Valezim Alva •
In Valezim are Sabugueiro

several old
water mills
of a type not
often found in Valezim Curral dos
Portugal. Two •
Martins
of them are Rodeio Grande
still used to re
ze
grind grain. Zè
Coimbra Penha dos
Muro Abutres
•
Vide
J
•
Rib
eira
de Alvoco Torre •
Penhas da
Saúde
KEY
Unhais Alto da
1 Penhas de Saúde, once a health
da Serra
spa, is now popular with skiers. J • Pedrice
2 Seia is one of the main entry
points to the Parque Natural da
Serra da Estrela.
3 Manteigas, at the heart of the
Serra, is a textile centre. Just to the
west there is a pousada (see p390). Torre
Despite the
4 Covilhã, the largest town in unpredictability
the area, is known for its fine of snow, the slopes
textiles woven from locally below Torre are
produced wool. The textile used for skiing,
museum here deserves a visit. tobogganing or just
fun in the snow.
THE BEIRAS  225
. Linhares VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Guarded by the towers of
its medieval castle, Linhares
is like a living museum.
Road map D3. n Mercado
The forum, from which
Municipal, Rua Pinto Lucas
medieval justice was
Marrão, Seia (238 317 762);
dispensed, survives, as do
Covilhã (275 319 560); Gouveia
many fine houses from its
(238 083 930); Manteigas (275
15th- century heyday.
981 129).
( Sat in most towns. _ Feb:
Carnaval & annual cheese fairs;
Dec: Santa Luzia.
Transport
Celorico £ Covilhã, Guarda. @ to
da Beira Covilhã, Seia & Guarda. Limited
0 kilometres 5 Celorico
da Beira local service within park.
0 miles 2
•
Key
Prados Major road
Minor road
•
Linhares
•
Folgosinho Cabeça Alta Videmonte
•
Guarda
go
Galhardos nde
Mo Guarda
•
Manteigas
e Valhelhas
zer
Zè •
Belmonte
. Zêzere Valley
The Zêzere eventually joins the Tagus,
but here, near its source, the young
river flows through a classic glacier-
cut valley. The golden broom
growing here is used to thatch
mountain huts.
Sheepdog of the Serra

Intelligent, loyal and brave, the Serra da Estrela
•
Covilhã sheepdog embodies all the qualities required in this
wild region. Its heavy coat, as shaggy as its charges,
Castelo helps it survive the bitter high-altitude
Branco
winters and in the past
its strength was
called upon to
defend the flock
from wolves. Pedigree
Serra da Estrela dogs
(reputedly with some
Poço do Inferno wolf’s blood introduced in
This cascade in a gorge of the their breeding) are raised at
River Leandros is a spectacular kennels near Gouveia
sight, especially when it freezes and west of Manteigas.
in winter.
j Sabugal
Road map E3. * 3,000. @
n inside the castle (271 750 080).
( 1st Thu & 3rd Tue of month.
In 1296, when this small town

beside the River Côa was
confirmed as Portuguese in the
Treaty of Alcañices, the castle
was refortified by the ever
industrious King Dinis (see p48).
Its imposing towered walls and
unusual fivesided keep survive
from this era, although the
castle suffered in peacetime
from villagers raiding it for The castle at Sabugal, with its distinctive five-sided keep
building stone.
Peopled since prehistoric variation, the capeia, bulls were keep and the 16thcentury
times, Sabugal still has part of taunted into charging into a Igreja da Misericórdia, with an
its medieval walls, reinforced huge fork of branches. elegant Manueline portal capped
in the 17th century and now by armillary spheres, the emblem
ringed by newer houses. In the of Manuel I.
Praça da República stands a k Penamacor
granite clock tower, recon Environs
Road map D3. * 6,200. £ @
structed in the 17th century. n Rua Tenente Coronel Rodrigues Penamacor is the headquarters
da Silva (277 394 106). ( 1st & 3rd of the Reserva Natural da Serra
Environs Wed of month. da Malcata. These 20 sq km
Wrapped in its ring of walls, (8 sq miles) of forested wilderness
Sortelha, 20 km (12 miles) west, Fought over by successive waves shelter wolves, otters and, most
is enchanting. It sits on a granite of Romans, Visigoths and Moors, importantly, are one of the last
outcrop and the views from this frontier town was fortified in refuges of the Iberian lynx.
the high keep of its gem of a the 12th century by Gualdim Pais, Visitors should first call at the
13thcentury castle are stunning. Master of the Knights Templar (see information centre for advice.
In front of the arched castle pp190–91). Today the weather
entrance is a 16thcentury pillory beaten castle walls rise above a O Reserva Natural da Serra
with an armillary sphere on top. quiet town at the heart of hardy, da Malcata
In the tiny citadel are a school sparsely inhabited country @ to Penamacor or Sabugal. n Rua
and stony lanes of granite where the main attraction is Ribeiro Sanches 60, Penamacor (277
houses, some discreetly con the hunting of small game. 394 467). 8 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
verted into restaurants (see p405). From the main square, the
The local fondness for bull road up to the old town passes
fights (see pp150–51) is reflected beside the former town hall, l Monsanto
in names of nearby villages built over a medieval archway. Road map E3. * 1,500. @ n Rua
such as Vila do Touro. In a local Beyond lie the restored castle Marquês de Graciosa (277 314 642).
( 3rd Sat.
An odd fame hit Monsanto in

1938 when it was voted “most
Portuguese village in Portugal”.
The village is at one with the
granite hillside on which it
perches: its lanes blend into
the grey rock, the houses
squeezed between massive
boulders. Tiny gardens sprout
from the granite and dogs
drink from granite bowls.
The ruined castle began as
a castro, a Lusitanian fortified
settlement, and suffered a long
history of sieges and battles
for its commanding position.
It was finally destroyed by a
Monsanto’s houses, dwarfed by immense granite boulders 19thcentury gunpowder
THE BEIRAS  227
explosion. Cars cannot venture reflections in pools and

beyond the village centre, but monarchs stand guard
the view alone is worth the walk along the balustrades – the
up to the ruined walls. hated kings of the 60-year
A story is told of how a long Spanish rule (see p54)
siege by the Moors drove the conspicuously half-size.
hungry villagers to a desperate The 17th-century
ploy. They threw their last calf, Paço Episcopal itself
full of their last grain, over the now houses the Museu
walls, a show of profligacy that Francisco Tavares Proença
convinced the Moors to give Júnior. Its wide-ranging
up. Each May there is a mock collection includes
re-enactment of this victory archaeological finds,
amid much music and singing. displays of 16th-century
tapestries and Portuguese
primitive art. Castelo
z Idanha-a-Velha Branco is also well
known for its fine silk-
Road map D3. * 90. @ n Rua da
Sé (277 914 280).
embroidered bedspreads,
called colchas, and
This modest hamlet among examples of these are also
the olive groves encapsulates exhibited in the museum.
the history of Portugal. Discreet The popular Museu
signposts and explanations in Statue-lined Stairway of the Apostles in Cargaleiro houses a
Portuguese, French and English the unusual Jardim Episcopal, Castelo Branco remarkable collection
guide visitors round the of rare paintings, tapestries
landmarks of this fascinating x Castelo Branco and ceramics, donated by
living museum. the Manuel Cargaleiro
Road map D4. * 32,500. £ @
Idanha-a-Velha was, it is said, n Avenida Nuno Alvares 30 (272 330
Foundation. Beside the road
the birthplace of the Visigothic 339). ( Mon; antiques: every 3rd Sun. back to the town centre stands
King Wamba, and had its own a 15th-century cross known as
bishop until 1199. The present This handsome, busy old city, the Cruzeiro de São João.
appearance of the cathedral overlooked by the vestiges of
comes from early 16th-century a Templar castle, is the most Y Jardim Episcopal
restoration, but in the echoing important in the Beira Baixa. Rua Bartolomeu da Costa.
interior are stacked inscribed Much the greatest attraction Open daily. &
and sculpted Roman stones. is the extraordinary Jardim
In the middle of the village Episcopal beside the former E Museu Francisco
stand several historic monu- bishops’ palace. Created by Tavares Proença Júnior
Largo Doutor José Dias Lopes.
ments: a 17th-century pillory Bishop João de Mendonça in
Tel 272 344 277. Open 10am–1pm
and the Renaissance Igreja the 18th century, the garden’s
& 2–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed pub
Matriz, while near an early layout is conventionally formal;
hols. &
20th-century olive press is a its individuality lies in its dense
ruined Torre dos Templários, population of statues. Baroque E Museu Cargaleiro
a relic of the Templars. This in style and often bizarre in Rua dos Cavaleiros 23. Tel 272 337 394.
order of religious knights held character, stone saints and Open 10am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun.
sway in Idanha until the 14th apostles line the box-edged Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Apr, 1 May,
century (see pp192–3). paths, lions peer at their 25 Dec. 7 &
The historic little village of Idanha-a-Velha, among its olive groves beside the River Ponsul
NortherN
Portugal
Introducing Northern
Portugal 230–237
Douro and Trás-os-Montes 238–267
Minho 268–287
230  NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Northern Portugal at a Glance

Portugal north of the River Douro is rural and unspoilt,
yet offers splendid opportunities for cultural sightseeing,
walking and water sports. Beyond the cultivated valley
of the Douro and the fertile Minho rises the remote and
romantically named Trás-os-Montes (“Behind the Moun-
tains”), with its tracts of wilderness and tiny medieval
townships. It could be said the nation was conceived In the Parque Nacional da
between the Minho and the Douro, and historic cities Peneda-Gerês scenery ranges
such as Porto, Bragança and Braga give fascinating insights from dramatic forested valleys to
flowery meadows. Local farmers
into the country’s past. store their grain in curious stone
espigueiros (see pp276–7).
Monção
Vila Nova
de Cerveira
Arcos de
Caminha Valdevez
Vila Praia
de Âncora Ponte da
Barca
Viana do MINHO
Castelo (See pp268–287)
Viana do Castelo, at the mouth of the River Vieira do
Minho
Lima, is elegant and relaxed (see pp280–81).
The stately buildings in the Praça da República, Esposende
including the arcaded Paços do Concelho (the
old town hall), reflect the town’s wealthy past. Barcelos
Braga
Guimarães
Póvoa de Varzim Celorico

Bom Jesus do de Basto
Monte, near Braga, Vila do Conde Santo
Tirso
attracts worshippers,
penitents and tourists,
who all come to climb Leça da Palmeira
116 m (380 ft) up the Amarante
Baroque staircase (see
pp284–5). This is the Porto
Staircase of the Five Penafiel
Senses, with fountains
depicting each of
the senses. Cinfães
Douro Litoral
Porto, set on Penaventosa Hill above

the River Douro, is Portugal’s second city
(see pp242–9). Alongside a wealth of historic
sights and sophisticated shopping, it offers the
charm of its steep medieval alleys tumbling
down to the lively riverside quays, and a
chance to taste port at its point of origin.
The Douro Valley near Quinta dos Canais, in the Upper Douro
INTRODUCING NORTHERN PORTUGAL  231
The Casa de Mateus,

familiar to many from
the Mateus Rosé wine
label, lies in the hills
above the valley of the
Douro. This Baroque
solar, or manor house,
is set in beautifully
manicured formal
gardens, its distinctive
pinnacles rising above
the orchards and vine-
yards that surround it
(see pp260–61).
Bragança, capital of Trás-os-Montes, gave
its name to Portugal’s last and longest-ruling
royal dynasty. The keep and walls of this
remote citadel, founded in the 12th century,
look out over the valley of the River Fervença
(see pp264–5).
Bragança
Montalegre
Gimonde
Chaves
Boticas
Valpaços
Vidago
Trás-os-Montes Miranda
Cabeceiras
de Basto do Douro
Romeu
Mirandela
Sendim
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES
(See pp238–267)
Murça
Mogadouro
Vila Real
Torre de
Moncorvo
Peso da Alto Douro
Régua Pinhão
Mesão
Frio Freixo de
Lamego Espada à
Cinta
Penedono
Castro
Daire
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Port Country, as the scenic valley of the

Upper Douro is commonly called, is the
nursery of Portugal’s port industry. A tour
of a quinta, or wine estate, with its steeply
terraced riverside vineyards, is highly
recommended (see pp258–9).
The Festivals of the North

Portuguese cities, towns and villages all have their own
particular saints’ days. These are primarily religious
occasions, particularly in the Minho and across the devout
north, but are also a chance to put aside the cares of life for
a day or two. It is a popular maxim that a holy day is best
celebrated by eating, drinking, dancing and merrymaking,
as well as worshipping and giving thanks. The most solemn
and spectacular celebrations of Holy Week, Semana Santa,
can also be seen in the north, especially in Braga (see
pp282 –3), Portugal’s ecclesiastical capital.
processes around his village

with a crucifix on a tall staff for
parishioners to kiss the feet
of Jesus. While the priest takes
a customary glass of wine, Street procession during the Festa das
his entourage ecstatically let Cruzes in Barcelos
off rockets. Families then
traditionally lunch on roast drink and dance all night,
kid (cabrito). playfully hitting each other over
After Easter, in early May, the the head with giant garlic-leeks
passion of Christ is recalled in (or, even more strangely, with
Barcelos (see p279). Crosses squeaky plastic hammers).
are erected the length Bonfires are lit and a
of a petal-strewn spectacular display
route for the Festa of fireworks
das Cruzes. explodes over the
A solemn moment as Easter candles are Douro. A tradition
lit in Braga that has become
São João a part of São João
Porto’s celebration of is the annual
Easter São João (23–24 Jun) is regatta of the
Holy Week, culminating in one of Portugal’s most barcos rabelos, the
Easter Sunday, is the major exuberant festivals. boats in which port
religious festival of the year. It coincides with the used to be shipped
In Braga, processions snake summer solstice. To Wielding a São down the Douro
round the city walls to the celebrate, people eat, João hammer (see p258).
great cathedral, and every
village has its own ceremonies.
The start of Holy Week Gold necklets Costume in the Minho
is heralded by Palm Sunday, Festivals are vital vehicles for keeping alive
when locals line the streets tradition, and regional costume in particular
and wave palm leaves to echoes the importance of religious festivals
commemorate the entry across the country. These days, on-trend
of Christ into Jerusalem. fashions and designer clothes are as much
The evening of Good Friday part of young people’s life in Minho
is palpably solemn, as villages as elsewhere in western Europe,
innumerable groups of but traditional dress is worn with pride on
locals process, following the days of celebration. The Minho’s costume is
14 Stations of the Cross, many the most colourful in Portugal, with exquisitely
believers doing public penance embroidered scarves and aprons in colours
as they recall Christ’s suffering. denoting village loyalties. Messages of love
In some villages an effigy of and friendship are stitched on to pockets,
and bodices are half-lost under tiers of gold
the lifeless and bleeding Christ
filigree, meaning there is more to these
is carried through the streets.
costumes than meets the eye.
On Easter Sunday, after an Embroidered
uplifting mass proclaiming the apron pockets
risen Christ, every parish priest
Romarias Stick Dancing

Any kind of celebration Stick dancers, or pauliteiros,
or party can be described can still be seen at village
as a festa, but one billed as festivals in Trás-os-Montes.
a romaria implies a religious The dances are of ancient
dimension. Most festas in the origin, probably associated
with fertility rites, and the
north are romarias; they begin
sticks may once have been
with a special mass, then
swords. The most famous
saints’ statues are brought troupe comes from the
from the church to be village of Duas Igrejas, Dancers
paraded through the streets near Miranda do Douro performing
on litters. Blessings are (see p266). at a festa
dispensed in all directions –
fire engines and
ambulances the bad spirits include more than a thousand
frequently also away and fire- participants. As a finale, fire-
getting the works light the works are let off from the
treatment sky. A few days bridge over the River Lima to
followed by a later, around cascade down into the water
spraying with 20 August, one as a fiery waterfall.
some Raposeira of the year’s On the coast just to the
sparkling wine. most spectac- west of Braga, villagers in São
Many romarias ular romarias Bartolomeu do Mar mark the
take place in the in Northern end of their romaria (22–24
summer, and in Portugal takes Aug) by dipping their children
August few days place in Viana in the sea, as a mock sacrifice
go by without a do Castelo (see to the waves.
celebration. The Procession to the Sea pp280 –81). The
Assumption Day during the Nossa Senhora da festivities cele-
(15 Aug) is fêted all Agonia Festival brating Nossa
over Portugal with Senhora da
dancing and music. Agonia include a bullfight
Gigantones, grotesque carnival and an afternoon devoted to
giants of pre-Christian origin, a kaleidoscopic display of
join street processions to keep regional costume, which may
Outlandish costumes and masks donned

for the Dia dos Rapazes
Christmas and Winter

On Christmas Eve, families
gather to enjoy enormous
quantities of bacalhau (salt
cod) and mulled port, and
to exchange presents, before
attending midnight mass.
Between Christmas and
Epiphany, Trás-os-Montes
village boys dress in crazy,
fringed suits to take part in
the rite-of-passage Dia dos
Rapazes.
The Christmas season ends
on Dia de Reis (6 Jan), when
the bolo rei, or “king cake”, rich
with crystallized fruit “jewels”,
Comical giants leading an Assumption Day parade in Peso da Régua is eaten (see p37).
The Story of Port

The “discovery” of port dates from the 17th century when British
merchants added brandy to the wine of the northern Douro region
to prevent it souring in transit. They found that the stronger and
sweeter the wine, the better flavour it acquired. Methods of maturing
and blending continue to be refined by the main port producers.
Croft was one of the first big shippers, followed by other English and
Scottish firms. Despite the consolidation of the global drinks industry,
much of the port trade is still in British hands, and
some firms are still family-run.
Barco rabelo ferrying port

down the Douro river
The Port Region

Port comes only from a
ão
Tua
demarcated region of the

P in h
go
Cor
upper Douro valley, stretching

r
o
bo
ur 100 km (62 miles) to the Spanish

Porto Do
Sa
Vila Real
Tua border. Régua and Pinhão are the
Peso da Régua main centres of production, but most
Pinhão
Do ur o Lamego top-quality vineyards lie on estates or
quintas in the harsh eastern terrain.
Styles of Port
There are essentially two categories of port: latter, which include tawny ports, are ready to
red and wood-aged. The former are deeper in drink when they are bottled. White port is in a
colour and will develop after bottling; the category of its own.
Vintage, the star of any Late Bottled

shipper’s range, is made Vintage (LBV) is
from wines of a single wine of a single year,
year, from the best bottled between
vineyards. It is blended four and six years
and bottled after two after the harvest.
years in wood, and may then mature Filtered LBV may have less flavour
Vintage for a very long time in the bottle. LBV than unfiltered, “traditional” LBV.
Aged tawny port Tawny port

is blended from without
top-quality wines indication of
that have been age may not
aged in wood for a have been in
long time. The age on the label is not wood for long enough to develop
precise, but the older it is, the paler, the complex flavours of aged tawny.
more delicate, less fruity and more It may be a blend of red and white
Aged Tawny expensive the port is likely to be. Tawny ports, and its price is fairly low.
Ruby port is deep red White port is made

and should be full of from white grapes
lively fruit flavour. It has and may be sweet
been aged for two or or not so sweet. It is
three years, sometimes mainly drunk chilled
in wood, sometimes as an aperitif. Some
not. It is less complex types of white port have a slightly
than either LBV or Vintage, but costs lower alcohol content than the
Ruby considerably less. White normal 20 per cent for port.
Vintage Port
In the interests of
maintaining the
highest standards
of quality – and
of not saturating
the market – port
producers do not
“declare” a vintage
every year. Each year, the wine
from the best vineyards is closely
Collecting grapes in tall wicker baskets for transport to the wineries monitored for 18 months, other
How Port is Made producers are consulted about
their quality, and then a decision
The climax of the Douro farmers’ year comes in late is taken. If a vintage is not
September when bands of pickers congregate to harvest declared, the wine may remain in
the grapes. More than 40 varieties are used for making port, wood to be blended as tawny or
but there are five recommended top varieties. LBV in future, or it may be bottled
as a “single quinta” port – a kind of
secondlabel vintage. On average,
producers declare a vintage three
times in a decade, though not
always in the same years.
A good vintage needs time in
bottle to reveal itself. Fifteen years
is seen as a minimum, although
many impatient drinkers do not
actually wait that long; there
is even a fashion for drinking
young vintage port. The nature
Fermentation in cement or
Treading the grapes in of vintage port’s aging process
steel tanks is a more common
stone tanks or lagares to results in a continuously evolving
method. Carbon dioxide builds
extract the juice is a feature list of great vintages. Most experts
up within the tank, forcing the
of very traditional quintas. agree, however, that no vintage
fermenting must (juice from the
Some shippers believe it has yet equalled that produced
grapes) up a tube into an open
adds a special quality. in 1963.
trough at the top. The gas is
released and the must sprays
back over the pips and skins, Pre-war vintages
in a process similar to treading. 1927, 1931, 1935: All great and
now very rare.
In the fortification process,
the semifermented must is Post-war vintages
run into a second vat where 1945, 1947, 1948, 1955:
brandy – actually grape spirit – For the very rich and
is added. This arrests the extremely lucky.
fermentation, leaving the wine 1963 Perhaps the greatest
sweet from natural grape sugar. postwar vintage.
1994 A fine vintage,
particularly from
Dow, Taylor and
Quinta do Noval.
1997 Another fine
vintage.
2000 A very
promising year.
2003 A superb
vintage with
attractive ripe
Thousands of bottles of Quality tawny port is fruit flavours.
Graham’s vintage port matured in oak casks in the
from 1977 await full matur port lodges. Once bottled, it
ation in the cellars of the is ready for drinking and does Taylor’s 1994 vintage
Vila Nova de Gaia lodge. not require decanting.
The Flavours of Northern Portugal

There is a smoky flavour to the rustic food of the north. This
seems to come not only from the area’s wealth of cured, often
smoked, pork products (frequently used to add spice to
other dishes), but from the woodsmoke-scented air of the
quiet valleys of the interior, too. The cuisine consists of rich
stews and thick soups, beans, chestnuts and cabbage, and
crusty maize bread. The prized pig does service in everything
from the pale, lightly cured hams of Amarante to clove-
and cumin-spiced morcela (blood sausage). Local beef is Maize bread (corn bread)
renowned, and cabrito (kid) is a favourite in roasts and stews.
couve galega, the tall-growing, Douro and Trás-

open-leafed kale typical of the os-Montes
Minho. The Portuguese love These are meatier regions,
affair with bacalhau, dried famed for their embutidos or
salted cod, is as ardent here as enchidos (cured pork products).
it is anywhere in the country, Vila Real is a centre for the
despite the availability of fresh production of spiced, salted,
fish throughout the region. Try sometimes marinated and
it com broa – baked with a smoked meats and sausages,
crust of the rich maize bread but each area makes its own,
(broa de milho), another often on a small scale. Presunto
Sheets of salt cod drying in the sun and speciality of the north. (cured ham) from Chaves,
coastal breezes Presunto Linguiça
Morcela
Minho Chouriço Alheira Paio
Northernmost Portugal is a Salpicão
landscape of dense greenery,
punctuated with granite and
traversed by rivers. Trout, eel
and lamprey all still feature
prominently on local menus,
even if the trout nowadays is
mostly farmed and the lamprey
often imported. The Minho
region is also home to caldo
verde, the best-known of
Portugal’s soups. It is made with Some of the cured and smoked pork produce of Northern Portugal

Caldo verde is by far the best-known dish
from the north, and its simple composition
and strong flavours, though sometimes
diluted by too much potato, are represent-
ative of the northern style of cooking.
Combinations of fish and meat, in particular
cured pork, are another feature, as in lampreia
à moda do Minho (lamprey cooked in white
Portuguese wine with chouriço), trutas com presunto (trout
cabbage with cured ham) and bacalhau à Transmontana
(salt cod with pork belly). Cozido is a pan-
Portuguese dish whose origins are thought to be in the north or
across the border in Spain. It is a stew of beef, vegetables and
Caldo Verde is a hearty soup
sausages, including morcela. Traditionally, the meat and vegetables
of kale or cabbage with spicy
are served separately, with rice and beans respectively, and the stock
chouriço sausage. The colour
is served on the side.
is as vibrant as the flavour.
their stocks of chestnuts,

cabbages and cured meats.
Porto
Modern cooking is largely
confined to Porto, which has
some of the country’s most
innovative chefs, but the city
also retains culinary traditions
such as cooking tripe, which has
earned its citizens the nickname
tripeiros (tripe-eaters). It is also
famed for its egg-based pastries.
Weekly regional market at Barcelos in the Minho REGIONAL WINES
traditionally covered in paprika olive groves and orchards of the Vinho verde, the familiar light
powder after salting and drying, Terra Quente, the “hot lands” white and slightly fizzy wine from
of the lower Trás-os-Montes the Minho, has made something
has a long-standing reputation
of a comeback after a period of
as among the country’s best. region. Interestingly, the olive
neglect by producers as well as
Serra do Barroso, the mount- oils from here are prized for
consumers. Its appeal lies in its
ainous area bordering the their mildness of flavour. Farther acidity (the “crispness” and
Minho, gives its name to the north, beyond Bragança, lie “freshness” of wine writing), its
Barrosã breed of cow, made the drier and colder high plains carbon dioxide sparkle and its
tasty by grazing the high of the Terra Fria, where some relatively low alcohol content –
pastures of this wet area. inhabitants still spend the around 10 per cent. There is also
winter indoors, warmed by a fuller-bodied, more complex
their animals and living off style, made from the Alvarinho
Extreme Climates grape in and around the town of
The rows of vines that line the Monção. The red version of vinho
slopes of the upper Douro valley, verde is rarely found outside the
neatly tracing its con-tours, give region. Port wine (see pp234–5)
this once remote region a tamed is the other highlight among
appearance that belies its northern Portuguese drinks,
but modern wines from the
extremes of climate. Cold
Douro also merit serious
winters, slow warming in spring,
attention. They match the
and blistering-hot summers
regional cuisine admirably,
bring out the best in the thick- and their distinctive character
skinned grape varieties that go includes rare wine flavours
into making port. On the The shop window of an Porto pastelaria such as violets and heather.
valley’s northern side are the (pastry shop)
Trutas com presunto wraps fat Cozido à Portuguesa is a Toucinho do céu translates as
river trout in lean cured ham winter stew of beef, sausage “heavenly bacon” but is actually
before they are fried in bacon and root vegetables, suited to a rich and mouthwatering
fat until golden. the cold northern plains. almond cake.
NORTHERN PORTUGAL  239
DOURO AND
TRÁS-OS-MONTES
On its way to the Atlantic, the Douro or “Golden River” weaves its
scenic path through deep-cleft gorges, terraced with thousands
of vineyards, to the historic city of Porto, home of port. To the
northeast, the high plateaus and mountain ranges of Trás-os-
Montes, “Behind the Mountains”, form Portugal’s wildest region.
As early as the 9th century BC, Phoenician The upper reaches of the river are devoted
merchants arrived in the Douro estuary to the cultivation of grapes for port, the
to trade. The Romans later developed landscape shaped by endless vineyards
the settlements of Portus and Cale on and wine estates (quintas).
either side of the river, and the names In contrast with the thriving Douro valley,
subsequently united, as Portucale, to Trás-os-Montes is remote and untamed, a
denote the region between the Minho refuge in the past of religious and political
and Douro rivers. This was the nucleus exiles. The hard life and lack of opportunity
of the kingdom of Portugal (see pp46–7). to better it have depopulated the land;
The estuary and coastal strip, or Douro those who remain till the fields and herd
Litoral, is now a mix of fishing ports, beach their flocks in the unforgiving climate,
resorts and industrial zones, while Portus, according to the rhythm of the seasons.
at the river’s mouth, became Porto, the The rural north clings closely to tradition
regional capital and Portugal’s second city. and local festas are some of the country’s
Rich from centuries of trade, cosmopolitan most colourful (see pp232–3). Outside
Porto is at once modern and steeped influences are beginning to make an
in the past, its waterfront and higgledy- impact on Trás-os-Montes, but for the
piggledy streets a delight to explore. visitor it remains a land of quiet stone
From its hillside, Oporto looks across the villages amid fields of rye and moorland,
Douro to the lodges that nurture where the wild Parque Natural de
the precious wine to which the city Montesinho stretches from Bragança
gave its name: port. to the Spanish border.
Terraced vineyards covering the hillsides between Pinhão and Alijó, in the valley of the Upper Douro
A bridge over the River Sabor in Trás-os-Montes
Exploring the Douro and Trás-os-Montes

Porto itself is so full of interest that many visitors venture
no further. But to follow the Douro upstream is to discover a
world of neat terraced vineyards and prosperous quintas all
dedicated to producing wine and port. Porto apart, either
Peso da Régua or the pilgrimage town of Lamego would
make a convenient base from which to explore the area.
Trás-os-Montes is Portugal’s poorest and least-known
region. Its isolated capital, Bragança, is full of historic
associations, and lies on the edge of the wild terrain of
the Montesinho reserve. Between here and Chaves is
Rocky outcrops of the Parque Natural do
spectacular country seldom visited by tourists. Alvão
Sights at a Glance s L a ro u c o
rê S e r ra d o
1 Porto pp242–53 r Chaves Ge
do
2 Santo Tirso t Murça r ra
Montalegre
Se
3 Penafiel y Mirandela Barragem do
Alto Rabagão
4 Amarante u Bragança pp264–5 Paradela O
OS
5 Cinfães i Parque Natural de Montesinho Pinzio RR
BA
6 Mesão Frio o Miranda do Douro DO
SERRA Boticas
7 Peso da Régua p Mogadouro
Carvalhelhos
8 Lamego a Torre de Moncorvo Braga Vidago
0 Casa de Mateus pp260–61 s Freixo de Espada à Cinta
q Vila Real
Tours
w Parque Natural do Alvão
9 Port Country Tour pp258–9
VILA
e Serra do Barroso Vila Pouca
de Aguiar
Cerva ão
Alv
Guimarães
o
ad
Braga SANTO Ermelo

rr
Viana do TIRSO
Se
Castelo Trofa Roriz PARQUE NATURAL

DO ALVÃO
Fridão
Mindelo
Coronado VILA REAL
AMARANTE Sabrosa
CASA DE MATEUS
PORTO Carneiro
Ermesinde Paredes
Matosinhos PENAFIEL
MESÃO PESO DA
Valongo Baião
PORTO FRIO RÉGUA
PORT
Vila Nova de Gaia Cambres
Boelhe
LAMEGO Armamar
Rio Melres
Aguda Do
ur
Tarouqela
Cárquere
VISEU
o CINFÃES
Espinho Tarouca
Viseu
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Porto’s quayside, the Cais da Ribeira, in the early morning
For keys and symbols see back flap
DOURO AND TRÁS-OS-MONTES  241
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Port country near Pinhão, where vineyards clothe the banks of the Douro
Rio de Onor
Mofreita Montesinho
PAR França
QUE
N AT U R A MONTESINH
L DE
Ourense O
Rio
Vinhais
São Julião
M en
ela
BRAGANÇA Gimonde
te
Soutelo São Pedro

oT
Ri
Zoio
i ra
Rio
CHAVES Rebordelo Zamora

gue
Sab
No
or
Torre de Santa Comba

da
Dona Chama de Rossas Pinelo

ra
Valpaços Vale de
Ser
Telhas Vimioso
Vinhas Izeda
REAL Romeu
Macedo
de Cavaleiros
Malhadas
MIRANDA
Jou MIRANDELA rn
es BRAGANÇA DO DOURO
Bo Chacim Morais Duas
Franco de ro Igrejas
a ou
rr d
Se ga
MURÇA Trindade Souteio Mo Sendim
u de
a
oT er
ra
Abreiro Ri Alfândega S
da Fé MOGADOURO
Bemposta
Pombal Vila Flor Parada Vale de

Alijó Porco
Sabor
o
Tua Carrazeda de Ri
Ansiães
Y o
TR TORRE DE
ur
UN
Do
CO Rio Douro MONCORVO

o
Ri
São João
da Pesqueira FREIXO DE ESPADA
À CINTA
Vila Nova
de Foz Côa
Guarda
Getting Around
With the frenetic tempo of traffic in Porto, it is
best to negotiate the inner city by bus, taxi or on
foot. Boat trips from Porto are a good way to see
the varied Douro landscape at a relaxed pace.
Trains link Porto to the major towns of the north
and also run along the Douro valley. Services are
less frequent beyond Peso da Régua, but a trip
alongside the Douro is highly recommended. In
Trás-os-Montes, public transport is minimal and
driving is the most convenient way to explore this
remote region, especially now the A4 links Vila Real
and Bragança. However, the state of repair of many The Sabor near Bragança, on the southern edge of the
minor roads leaves a lot to be desired. Parque Natural de Montesinho
1 Porto
Ever since the Romans built a fort here, where their trading
route crossed the Douro, Porto has prospered from commerce.
Quick to expel the Moors in the 11th century and to profit
from provisioning crusaders en route to the Holy Land,
Porto took advantage of the wealth generated by Portugal’s
maritime discoveries in the 15th and 16th centuries. Later,
the wine trade with Britain compensated for the loss of the
lucrative spice trade. Still a thriving industrial centre and
Portugal’s second-largest city, Porto, sometimes referred to
as Oporto, blends industry with charm. In 2001 the city, A shop specializing in bacalhau (dried
the historic centre of which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, salted cod)
was the European Capital of Culture.
MATOSINHOS
Airport
The Cathedral District façades, many in faded glory, 20 km (12 miles)
Fundaçao de
Porto’s cathedral (see p246) a working population earns Serralves PRAÇA
MOUZINHO DE
A V.
DA
BOA
crowns the city’s upper level its living, hangs out the ALBUQUERQUE VIST
A
BOAVISTA
O
and in the surrounding streets washing, chats and mixes in
M PA I
GO D
L A RORA O
SA DE
D
are a variety of monuments lively street scenes. A UNESCO P RI
RU
SA U D A D E
LO U A
O
RU
A
DA
RUA DE ANIB A L
to the city’s past. These include neighbourhood, restoration ÇA R
A
RUA Igreja de São
DE
DO B OM S U C E SS O
C UN H A
N Martinho de
the Renaissance church of work on many of the old build- G
O
R . DE S
ÃO
RU Cedofeita
JÚLI
PA ULO PA A D
Santa Clara (see p245) and the ings and façades is widely DR O
E PA
O
CR D
turn-of-the-century railway ongoing. There is a growing UZ RE
DIN
DE RUA
station of São Bento (see p245), number of trendy bars and R. D O CAM PO A L DA T O R R I NDHA
EGRE PIE A
which both stand alongside cafés opening in the district, IS
DA
R UA
DE
DE A
bustling street markets. next to traditional grocery RU
A ID
RU ER N
AT
Beneath the towering cathe- stores and family-run restau- M YNE
R
A D
BRE
. DO
dral lies the crowded Barredo, rants, meaning there are VA
R
E V
NO
a quarter seemingly unchanged plenty of great places to eat,

A
IL
BO
A
Museu
R
DA
since medieval days, where drink and people-watch in both I NTA S Soares dos
R.
QU
R U Reis
balconied houses cling to each new and old Ribeira. NT R E
AD
. M
EE ANUE
other and to the vertiginous It is worth paying a few Museu Romântico L II
D
da Quinta da Macieirinha
R UA
hillside, forming a maze of euros and getting on the FOZ DO

DOURO
ancient alleys; some are no Teleférico de Gaia cable car, Jardim do
O
Palácio de Cristal URAÇÃ
more than outside staircases. across the Ponte de Dom Luis I. DA R E STA
RUA
The journey affords spectacular Museu do R U A N O VA D E A
Ribeira views of the historic and Carro Eléctrico L FÂ
ND
EG
A
The riverside quarter of Porto, characterful Ribeira quarter, World of Discoveries
is a warren of narrow, twisting along with the Duoro, providing Museu dos
streets and shadowy arcades plenty of excellent photo Transportes e
that perfectly capture the opportunities. Ribeira is also Sights at a Glance Comunicações
city’s rich history. Behind home to the Casa do Infante 1 Sé

brightly tiled or pastel-painted (see p246). 2 Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro
3 Casa do Infante
4 Palácio da Bolsa
5 World of Discoveries
6 Museu dos Transportes e
Comunicações
7 Igreja da Misericórdia
8 São Francisco
9 Igreja dos Congregados
0 Igreja dos Clérigos
q Igreja do Carmo
w Museu Soares dos Reis
e Igreja de São Martinho de Cedofeita
r Museu Romântico da Quinta
da Macieirinha
t Jardim do Palácio de Cristal
The cathedral (Sé) and statue of Vímara Peres (see p246) y Ponte de Dom Luís I
PORTO  243
Map C2. * 245,000. n Rua
Clube dos Fenianos 25 (223 393
472); Sé Cathedral, Calçada de D
Pedro Pitões 15 (223 325 174). _
2nd half of Jun: Festas da Cidade.
∑ visitporto.travel
Transport
k Francisco Sá Carneiro,
Pedras Rubras 20 km (12 miles)
N (229 432 400). £ National &
International: Campanhã;
Looking north up the Avenida dos Aliados to the Câmara Municipal Regional: São Bento (707 210
220). @ Praçeta Régulo
Cordoaria Clérigos (see p247). There are Megoanha; Rua Alexandre
Herculano; Rua da Restauraçao;
The Cordoaria gardens are several sculptures by Spanish
Interface Casa da Música;
simply referred to as Cordoaria, sculptor Juan Muñoz at this
Campo 24 de Agosto.
and lie in the lee of the hilltop urban park. Nearby, the winding
landmark of the Torre dos streets are home to some of the
RUA city’s quirkiest bars and shops. Boavista
DA B Lapa
OA VIST
A BRAGA, Avenida da Boavista is lined
LEÇA DO BAILIO
RUA
DE A
LV A PRAÇADA
Central and Baixa with hotels, apartments and
RES
CAB
R A L REPUBLICA
DA
The civic centre of Porto ranges shops. In the centre is the
RUA
along the Avenida dos Aliados, Praça de Mouzinho de

ADE
R U A D O ALM A D A
or simply Aliados to locals, Albuquerque, a park-cum-

L IB E R D
GAS
DE
B R A
RUA D
OS R .D
O
AL
Trindade leading up to the modern roundabout more commonly
FER
Câmara Municipal, or town referred to as Rotunda da
ES D A
CE
ES
E MA
DO
N T
MIRA
Igreja
LH
EIR hall. Along this broad Boavista. At the centre stands
TI R
O
FE
DE
da Trindade R. D
RUA double avenue is a a great obelisk with a statue of a
I TA
E FE
ÁR
G E RNAN
R D
R. M
O ES TO
UEL R. J MAS high concentration lion (representing the Luso-
R U A D O B O NJ A R D
C ATA S A N TA
E MIG RUA
RUA DO ALMADA
R U A DM B A R D A
RINA
R . D A P IC A R IA
Mercado
BO
CORDOARIA
Câmara
Municipal do Bolhão of the city’s banks British forces) crushing an
DE
R. C. PRAÇA and offices, and eagle (the French), marking the

L I AD O S
MENÉ
R E S Igreja CARLOS
DEI A
R UA
RA
Campanhã popular outdoor victory in the Peninsular War.

BAN SÁ D
ALBERTO
do Carmo R. S Train Station
AV. DO S A
A
T E R NTA
cafés. Look out for Next to the rotunda is the
E
ESA 1.6 km (1 mile)

R. D
PR.
IM
R UA D O GOMES
C A RM OTEIXEIRA
R.
Igreja dos BAIXA the Estação de Casa da Música, a striking
Universidade Congregados
Jardim da
DO
S
Aliados
C LÉRIG OS RU A 3 1 DE JANEIRO São Bento; this modern concert hall designed
ES
CAMP
R. DA M
Palácio
Cordoaria
R IA
AD
EIR
E PAR
ED train station is by Rem Koolhaas as part of
T Igreja dos A
PÁ TR
da Justiça one of the city’s the city’s regeneration project,
O
São Bento EN
AV. DE N R IQ U E
D A V IT BE N T O
DA Clérigos R.
Ó RI A
RA O
H
RU
Mosteiro de H
grandest build- in 2005. Also nearby is Igreja
EI INH
Ã E RC A A
CH
. AFO S
São Bento ULA .

LV Z
UA
.
SI OU
NO
RU A S
da Vitória ings and visitors de São Martinho de Cedofeita

LÉ
R
D AA M
R . S ARA I VA R
NSO
OU
R UA S . U
Igreja da A
to the city should (see p249). South of here is
RU
MIGUEL Sé D E C ARVA LHO D OS

EL
OL
Misericórdia
A V. D
Igreja de S. U
ED
R
João Novo Palácio

Casa-Museu
Guerra
A
DO DUQ U pop in to admire some of the best shopping in
E VIM
da Bolsa Junqueiro Fernandine Wall

.
its grandeur. the city.
T E D. H E N R I Q U E A G
AN NID
AV E I F F E L To the east, the
A
. INF
RA PE
São Francisco R
RIBEIRA E
Baixa, or “lower level”
Do Casa do
district, attracts local
RES
ur Infante
o Ponte de Dom Luís I
shoppers, especially to
the fashionable jewellery
VILA NOVA
DE GAIA COIMBRA and leather shops in and
Jardim do Morro around the pedestrianized
Rua de Santa Catarina and
the parallel Rua Sá da Bandeira.
Between them lies the two-
tier covered Bolhão market.
Exuberant and noisy, the market
Key provides an entertaining view
of Porto daily life and houses
Cathedral District pp244–5 tempting local produce. Every-
thing can be bought here, from
0 metres 300
fresh fruit and vegetables to
0 yards 300 flowers, household goods and Ribeira, the old town of Porto, and the
even pets. river Douro
Street-by-Street: Porto’s Cathedral District

Archaeological excavations show that Penaventosa
Hill, now the site of Porto’s cathedral, or Sé,
was inhabited as early as 3,000 years ago. In its
elevated position, the cathedral is a useful
landmark and its terrace provides an excellent
orientation point. The broad Avenida de Vímara
Peres, named after the military hero who expelled
the Moors from the city in AD 868, sweeps south
past the huddle of steep alleys and stairways of
R UA DA S F LO R E S
the Barredo. The view to the north is towards the
extraordinarily embellished São Bento station
and the busy commercial heart of the city.
Rua das Flores
A
Behind the traditional shop- EIR
I LV
fronts in the Street of Flowers D .S
O
are some of the city’s best INH
UZ
jewellers and goldsmiths. MO
R.
RUA ESCUR
A
Terreiro da Sé
This broad open terrace offers a CA
wonderful panorama of the city. In one LÇA
DA
corner stands a stone monument, DE
VAN
complete with hooks. DO
MA
TERREIRO
M HUGO
DA SÉ
DO
DE
A
U
R
ES
ER
A P
Bishop’s palace
AR
IM
. Sé
. V
Although imposing and perhaps a little

forbidding, Porto’s cathedral contains many The Casa-Museu Guerra
AV
small-scale treasures. This 17th-century gilded Junqueiro is a charming museum

carving of the Last Supper is in the Capela de in a house that once belonged to
São Vicente (see p246). the 19th-century poet (see p246).
Ponte de
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8 Dom Luis I
PORTO  245
Praça da
Liberdade Praça de Almeida Garrett
Traffic hurries by oblivious to the
architectural diversity of this busy
square in the centre of Porto.
PRAÇA DE
ALMEIDA
GARRETT
São Bento Station

LOUREIRO
UES
DO
RIQ
A
RU
HEN
. São Bento Station

NSO
Porto’s central railway station, on the site of an earlier

monastery, was completed in 1916. Inside is a feast of
AFO
azulejos by Jorge Colaço (see p31), depicting early

Ã modes of transport, rural festivities and historic scenes.
H
C
OM
A
U
R
A D
The Fernandine
NID
Wall, named after

Dom Fernando,
AVE
was built in the

14th and 15th
centuries; only
fragments here
RU
and along the
A Cais da Ribeira
C AS A R (see p242) remain.
RV AIV
AL A
HO DE
Santa Clara
The Mannerist church
of Santa Clara presents a
strong contrast between
its simple external façade
and the opulent gilded
woodwork of its interior.
0 metres 50 Key
0 yards 50 Suggested route

Exploring Porto
Throughout Porto there is evidence of the wealth that Where the monastery of São
Francisco once stood, the city’s
flowed into the city from the 15th century onwards. Trade
merchants built the stock
in the commodities from Portugal’s newly claimed lands exchange, or Bolsa, in 1842. The
(see pp52 –3) brought Brazilian gold and exotic woods to Tribunal do Comércio, where
embellish Porto’s churches, and prosperous merchants spent Porto’s mercantile law was
prodigiously on paintings and azulejos. Today, this gracious upheld, is full of historic interest.
capital of the north is a thriving cultural hub and easily visited The glittering highlight is the
Arabian Room. This galleried
on foot, starting in the prime riverside location of the ancient
salon, its convoluted blue and
Ribeira district. gold arabesques inspired by
Granada’s Alhambra, makes a
E Casa-Museu Guerra setting fit for Scheherazade.
Junqueiro
Rua de Dom Hugo 32. Tel 222 003 E World of Discoveries
689. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. Rua de Miagaia 106. Tel 220 439 770.
Closed public hols. & Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (till 7pm
The home of poet and fiery Sat & Sun; last adm 30 min before
Republican activist Guerra closing). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Junqueiro (1850–1923) is an 18th- ∑ worldofdiscoveries.com
century Baroque gem. The poet’s An interactive museum with a
private collection ranges from small ride, this family adventure
ceramics and Portuguese furni- is located in the heart of the
ture to Flemish tapestries and a city centre. The twenty themed
set of English alabaster sculptures. areas tell the story of Portugal’s
In the Dom João V Room there is history, including the various
a colourful parade of dogs. stages of the Portuguese
Discoveries and the country’s
P Casa do Infante groundbreaking maritime
Rua da Alfândega 10. Tel 222 060 400. achievements in the 15th and
The Gothic cloisters on the south side Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm 16th centuries.
of the Sé Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
87 E Museu dos Transportes
R Sé Legend has it that Prince Henry e Comunicações
Terreiro da Sé. Tel 222 059 028. the Navigator was born in this Rua Nova da Alfândega, Edifício
Open Oct–Mar: 9am–6pm Mon– house on Porto’s riverfront. da Alfândega. Tel 223 403 000.
Sat (till 7pm Apr–Sep), 9am– Today the building houses Open 10am– 1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Fri,
12:30pm & 2:30–6pm Sun (till 7pm Porto’s city archives, which 3–7pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
Apr–Sep). 5 11am. Cloisters: include historical documents, 24 Jun, 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ amtc.pt
Open Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm among them Prince Henry’s Housed in a vast Neo-Classical
Mon–Sat (till 6:30pm Apr–Sep),
christening certificate, photo- building on the riverfront, this
2:30–5:30pm Sun (till 6:30pm
graphs and archaeological finds. museum includes a permanent
Apr–Sep). &
exhibition on the automobile
Built as a fortress church P Palácio da Bolsa and interactive exhibitions on
in the 12th and 13th Rua Ferreira Borges. Tel 223 399 013. media, science, new tech-
centuries, the cathedral has Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6:30pm daily; nologies and art. The building
been modified several times. Nov–Mar: 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm also houses a coffee shop,
The beautiful rose window daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & various spaces for cultural
in the west front is from the 8 compulsory. events and the customs service.
13th century. The small
chapel to the left of the
chancel has a dazzling silver
retable, saved from invading
French troops in 1809 by a
hastily raised plaster wall.
The south transept gives
access to the 14th-century
cloisters and the Capela de
São Vicente. An 18th-century
staircase leads to the upper
levels, where azulejo panels
depict the life of the Virgin
and Ovid’s Metamorphoses. The magnificently gilded Arabian Room in Porto’s Palácio da Bolsa
PORTO  247
São Francisco’s Tree of Jesse Jesus

Christ
Illustrating biblical episodes, either in Virgin
stained-glass windows or as elaborate Mary
carvings, was a common form of “Bible Joseph
teaching” before literacy became widespread.
A popular subject was Christ’s genealogy,
showing his descent from the kings of Judah
and Israel. This was commonly rendered as an
actual tree, tracing the family line back
through Joseph to the father of King David,
Jesse of Bethlehem.
São Francisco’s Tree, in gilded and painted
wood, was carved between 1718 and 1721
by Filipe da Silva, António Gomes and Manuel
Carneiro Adão. Its sinuous branches and
trunk, sprouting from a reclining Jesse,
support a dozen expressive figures,
culminating in Christ flanked by his mother,
Mary, and St Joseph.
Solomon, who
succeeded his
father, David, Jesse is shown with the
was famed for roots of the Tree springing
his wisdom and from his loins. His youngest
for the building son was David, the slayer of King David,
of the Temple Goliath, who became king identified by
in Jerusalem. of Israel and Judah. his harp
R Igreja da Misericórdia wall. A tour includes the R Igreja dos Clérigos

Rua das Flores 15. Tel 222 074 710. catacombs and treasures Rua São Filipe de Nery. Tel 220 145
Open 10am–6pm daily. 5 9:30am from the church’s monastery, 489. Open 9am–7pm daily. Tower:
Tue–Fri & Sun. & destroyed in 1832. Open 9am–7pm daily. &
This religious hospice, This unmistakable hilltop
alongside its imposing R Igreja dos Congregados landmark was built in the 18th
church, was founded in the Rua da Sá da Bandeira 11. Tel 222 century by the Italian architect
1500s. Its most precious 002 948. Open 8am–6pm Mon– Niccolò Nasoni.
possession is the Fons Vitae Sat, 8am–1pm & 5–6pm Sun. The soaring Torre dos
(Fountain of Life), donated by Closed public hols. 5 6pm daily. Clérigos with which the
Manuel I in about 1520. It The modern tiles on the architect complemented his
shows the king and his family façade of this 17th-century design is, at 75 m (246 ft), still
kneeling before the crucified church are by Jorge Colaço one of the tallest buildings in
Christ. The artist’s identity (see p31). They depict scenes Portugal. The dizzying 240-step
remains unproven, but both from the life of St Antony, and climb is worth it for the superb
Van der Weyden and Holbein provide a dignified presence views of the river, the coastline
have been suggested. amid the traffic that clogs this and the Douro valley – an
part of the city. excellent photo opportunity.
R São Francisco
Rua do Infante D Henrique.
Tel 222 062 100. Open 9am–5:30pm
daily (till 7pm Mar–Jun & Oct, till 8pm
Jul–Sep). Closed 25 Dec. &
8 Catacombs incl.
This Gothic church was begun
in the 1300s, but it is the 18th-
century Baroque interior that
amazes visitors. Over 200 kg
(450 lb) of gold encrust the
high altar, columns and pillars,
wrought into cherubs and
garlands, culminating with
the Tree of Jesse on the north The Baroque church of Santo Antonio dos Congregados in Almeida Garrett Sqaure
E Museu Soares dos Reis

Rua Dom Manuel II. Tel 223 393 770.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (from
2pm Tue). Closed public hols. &
∑ museusoaresdosreis.pt
The elegant Carrancas Palace,
built in the 18th century,
has been a Jewish textile
workshop, a royal abode and
a military headquarters. In
1809 Porto was in French hands,
and Marshal Soult and his
troops were quartered
here. They were ousted
in a surprise attack by
Arthur Wellesley, later
Duke of Wellington,
who then calmly
installed himself
at the marshal’s
Detail of the azulejo panel on the side wall of the Igreja do Carmo dinner table.
Today, the
R Igreja do Carmo white-and-blue azulejo panel that palace provides
Rua do Carmo. Tel 222 078 400. covers one of the outside walls. an appropriate
Open 8am–noon & 1–6pm This was created by Silvestro setting for an
Mon & Wed, 9am–6pm Tue & Thu, Silvestri and depicts the legend- outstanding
9am–5:30pm Fri, 9am–1:30pm Sun. 7 ary founding of the Carmelite museum, named
This typically ornate example order as a community of hermits after António
of Portuguese Baroque was on Mount Carmel, in Israel. Soares dos Reis,
designed by the architect The older Igreja das the country’s
José Figueiredo Seixas. The Carmelitas next door, meant for leading 19th-
church was constructed Carmelite nuns, was completed century sculptor.
between 1750 and 1768, and in 1628 in a combination of Pride of place
one of its most remarkable Classical and Baroque styles. goes to the O Desterrado by
features is the monumental It is now part of a barracks. display of Soares dos Reis
A River View of Porto Vila Nova de Gaia

is home of the port
Ponte da
Arrábida
Quayside of
the Cais da
lodges (see p253). Estiva
Flowing over 927 km (576 miles) from its source
in Spain to the Atlantic, the Douro has been linked
with the fortunes of Porto since time immemorial.
There is an unsubstantiated story that Henry
the Navigator, patron of Portuguese explorers,
(see p53), was born in the waterfront Casa do
Infante. The days are long since gone when
ships laden with port or goods from overseas
would moor here, but the river continues to be
a focal point of the city. A river cruise is a chance
to appreciate Porto from a different viewpoint.
Most river-boat operators are based in the
shadow of the swooping curve of the splendid
two-tier Ponte de Dom Luís I, built in 1886 by
an assistant of Gustave Eiffel, to link the city to
Vila Nova de Gaia on the southern bank. The
city has a largely above-ground metro system,
which uses the upper level of the Dom Luís I
bridge. Just upriver, the Infante Dom Henrique
bridge is for cars. Further views can be enjoyed
from the Teleferico de Gaia cable car.
PORTO  249
Portuguese art. This includes E Museu Romântico Almeida Garrett, the great
paintings by the 16th-century Rua de Entre-Quintas 220. Tel 226 Portuguese Romantic poet,
master, Frey Carlos, and the 057 033. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, playwright and author.
Impressionist, Henrique Pousão. 10am–noon & 2–5pm Sun.
Also hung here are landscapes Closed public hols. & Y Jardim do Palácio
of Porto by the French artist, The Quinta da Macieirinha, a de Cristal
Jean Pillement (1728 –1808). handsome 18th-century Rua Dom Manuel II. Open 8am–9pm
The star sculpture exhibit, mansion, was briefly the daily (Oct–Mar: to 7pm).
O Desterrado (The Exile), is residence of the abdicated Inspired by the Crystal Palace
Soares dos Reis’s own marvel King Carlo Alberto of Sardinia of London’s Great Exhibition in
of pensive tension in marble, (1798–1849), who lived here 1851, Porto’s own crystal palace
completed in 1874. Further for the final two months of his was begun in 1861. The steel
sections display Portuguese life. In 1972 the upper floor of and glass structure of the
pottery, Limoges enamels, the building was converted original was replaced in the
porcelain and decorative into a museum. The well- 1950s by the Pavilhão Rosa
art. Historical exhibits in the proportioned rooms looking Mota, an ungainly shape
museum include an appealing out over the river display dubbed “the half-orange”.
15th-century silver bust of São French, German and Portuguese Concerts are occasionally held
Pantaleão, patron saint of Porto. furniture, as well as rugs, here and the leisure gardens
ceramics and miscellaneous are enlivened by a fair at festa
R Igreja de São Martinho exhibits. Among the oil time. The gardens themselves
de Cedofeita paintings and watercolours on are the star attraction, with
Largo do Priorado. Tel 222 000 635. show here are portraits of avenues of lime trees and
Open 4–7pm Tue–Fri. 7 Baron Forrester (see p258) and wonderful river views.
Constructed in Romanesque
style in the 12th century, this
plain little church is thought
to be the oldest in the city.
It is said to have been built
on the site where Theodomir,
the King of the Suevi (a
Germanic tribe who occupied
the area), was converted
to Christianity in the 6th
century by Saint Martin. Picturesque Jardim do Palácio de Cristal
Cais da Ribeira is one Bishops’ Torre dos Sé (see p246) Ponte de

of the quays at which palace Clérigos (see Dom Luís I
river boats moor. p247)
Porto: Further Afield works by Christian Boltanski, Bruce

Nauman and Julião Sarmento.
Away from the city centre, Porto has many additional places
of interest. Crossing the Ponte de Dom Luís I brings you to Vila E Casa-Museu Fernando
Nova de Gaia, the home of port, and the Mosteiro da Serra do de Castro
Rua Costa Cabral 716. Tel 223 393 770.
Pilar, with one of the finest views of the old city. In the northern Open by appt (223 393 770). &
and western suburbs are several fascinating attractions, from The former residence of poet,
the great church of the Hospitallers at Leça do Bailio, north of businessman and collector
Porto, to the latest developments in Portuguese art exhibited Fernando de Castro (1888–
in the beautifully modern setting of the Museu Serralves. 1950) houses his collection,
Along the coast, beyond the river-mouth castle at Foz do which ranges from religious
sculpture to works of modern
Douro, lies Matosinhos, which, despite its industrial port, is art. Among the highlights are
renowned for its seafood. a painting of the infant Jesus
The beaches, such as attributed to Josefa de Óbidos
Espinho, are the main (see p55) and figurines from the
draw along the coast 19th and 20th centuries by
Teixeira Lopes, father and son.
south of Porto.
Environs
Forts around the river mouth,
such as the Forte de São João
Baptista da Foz at Foz do Douro
and Castelo do Queijo just to
the north, are reminders that for
centuries the coast and ships
A horse-drawn tram, once a feature of Porto, in the Museu do Carro Eléctrico were under constant threat
from the Spanish and pirates.
R Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar E Fundação de Serralves The church of Bom Jesus,
Serra do Pilar. Tel 220 142 425. Museu de Arte in Matosinhos, was recon-
Open Tue–Sun. & Contemporânea structed by Niccolò Nasoni in
From the terrace of this circular Rua Dom João de Castro 210. Tel 226 the 18th century. Each June,
16th-century church, the future 156 500. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm pilgrims come here to honour
Duke of Wellington planned Mon & Wed–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun; a wooden statue of Christ
his surprise attack on the French Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm Mon & Wed–Fri, allegedly carved by the
in 1809. The view takes in the 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan, disciple Nicodemus.
port lodges below, the sweep 25 Dec. & 7 ∑ serralves.pt The 14th-century fortified
of the River Douro and the Portugal’s main institution for Igreja do Mosteiro at Leça do
old city on the far side. contemporary art is responsible Bailio, 8 km (5 miles) north
for both the Art Deco Casa de of Porto, was Portugal’s first
E Museu do Carro Eléctrico Serralves and the Museu de Arte headquarters of the Order of
Alameda Basìlio Teles 51. Contemporânea. Housed in a long, Hospitallers. The church has
Tel 226 158 185. Open 10am–6pm white building, the museum has elegant Gothic arches and a
Tue–Sun; 2–6pm Mon. & a permanent collection including splendid rose window.
∑ museudocarroelectrico.pt
Among the trams on show here is
No. 22, introduced in 1895 as the
first electric tram on the Iberian
Peninsula. A ride on No. 1, Porto’s
last tram, takes a scenic route
along the river to Rua Infante
Dom Henrique and back.
E Casa da Música
Avenida da Boavista 604. Tel 220 120
220. 8 9:30am–7pm daily (to 6pm Sun
& public hols). ∑ casadamusica.com
The Casa da Música is a venue
for all types of music, from
classical to fado and from
electronica to jazz. It also
promotes research into the
origins of Portuguese music. The Art Deco Casa de Serralves
Attractive, historic houses line the river in the old town of Ribeira, Porto
PORTO  253
Vila Nova de Gaia

Afonso III, in dispute with the Bishop of Porto
over shipping tolls, established a rival port at Vila
Nova de Gaia. In 1253, they reluctantly agreed to
share the levies. Today the heart of Vila Nova de
Gaia is devoted mostly to the maturation and
shipping of port (see pp258–9). Although the
regulation that port could be made only in Vila
Nova de Gaia was relaxed in 1987, this is still very
much the centre of production. Every alley is Guided tours are a chance to see how port
lined with the lodges or armazéns (there are no is made (see pp234–5) and often end with a
cellars here) in which port is blended and aged. tasting to demonstrate the different styles.
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0 metres 250
Port Lodges
0 yards 250
1 Graham 6 Ramos Pinto
2 Ferreira 7 Taylor
3 Cockburn 8 Sandeman
4 Barros 9 Cálem
5 Vasconcelos 0 Borges
Visiting the Lodges

Joining a tour: Lodges listed here
are among those offering tours.
Booking is not usually necessary,
but contact a lodge beforehand
to confirm times; the tourist office
at Avenida Diogo Leite 135 (223
773 089) can supply addresses
and telephone numbers.
The port lodges dominate Vila Nova de Gaia. Over 50 port Opening times: Variable. Usually
companies are based in these narrow streets, ageing and Mon–Fri; some also at weekends.
blending most of the world’s supply of port beneath a sea Most close on public holidays.
of red roofs emblazoned with world-famous names.
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp391–2 and pp406–8
the regional centre for the

production of vinho verde.
Environs
One of the region’s foremost
estates producing vinho verde
is Quinta da Aveleda, just
north of Penafiel.
Boelhe, around 17 km (11 miles)
south of Penafiel, merits a detour
for the 12th century church of
São Gens. Only 10 m (33 ft) high,
and a mere 7 m (23 ft) in width
and length, it is claimed to be
the smallest Romanesque church
in the country. Its simple design
enhances the aesthetic appeal.
The former monastery of São Bento at Santo Tirso, now a college In the 13thcentury church of
São Salvador at Paço de Sousa,
2 Santo Tirso Environs 8 km (5 miles) southwest of
At Roriz, 13 km (8 miles) east of Penafiel, is the tomb of Egas
Road map C2. * 13,900. £ @
Santo Tirso, the Romanesque Moniz. A figure of legendary
n Praça 25 de Abril (252 830 411).
( Mon.
church of São Pedro perches loyalty, he was counsellor to
above the Vizela valley. A date Afonso Henriques (1139–85), the
Santo Tirso, a major textile of 1228 is carved in the porch, first king of Portugal.
centre, lies beside the River although there are claims that a
Ave. The town’s most notable church may have stood here as  Quinta da Aveleda
building is the former monas early as the 8th century. Above Signposted from N115. Tel 255 718 200.
tery of São Bento. Founded by the portal is a fine rose window. Open Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct: daily).
the Benedictines in the 8th Set apart from the church are an Closed public hols. & 7
century, the monastery was attractive bell tower and the 8 compulsory.
later rebuilt, then modified in ruins of the monastic cloister.
the 17th century. The pairs of Sanfins de Ferreira, 5 km
columns in the 14thcentury (3 miles) further east, is the
Gothic cloister are graced with hilltop site of a citânia, an Iron
richly carved capitals. Age citadel, probably inhabited
The monastery, now an agri from around the 6th century BC.
cultural college, also houses Traces remain of a triple ring of
the Museu Abade Pedrosa, defensive walls around about
featuring local archaeological 100 huts, and there is also a
finds, including stone axes, small museum on the site.
bronze armlets and ceramics. The guard next door will let
you in on public holidays.
E Museu Abade Pedrosa The tiny church of São Gens at Boelhe,
Rua Unisco Godiniz 100. T Sanfins de Ferreira south of Penafiel
Tel 252 830 400. Open Tue–Sun. Sanfins, signposted off N209.
Closed public hols. Tel 255 963 643. Open Tue–Sun.
4 Amarante
3 Penafiel Road map D2. * 70,000. £ @
n Largo do Arquinho (255 420 246).
Road map C2. * 8,000. @ n ( Wed & Sat.
Largo Padre Américo (255 710 722).
( 10 & 20 of month. The pretty, riverside town of
Amarante is one of the gems
The granite town of Penafiel of northern Portugal. Rows of
stands on a hilltop above the 17thcentury mansions with
River Sousa. Apart from an brightly painted wooden
elegant Renaissancestyle balconies line Amarante’s
Igreja Matriz, there is also a narrow streets, and restaurants
sanctuary, Nossa Senhora da seat diners on terraces over
Piedade, built in 1908 in a hanging the river. The origins
curious medley of NeoGothic of the town are uncertain but
The sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Piedade and Byzantine styles. Penafiel the first settlement here was
in Penafiel is chiefly known, however, as probably around 360 BC.
Much of the town was burnt

down in 1809, after a two-week
siege by the French forces
under Marshal Soult. A recurring
name in Amarante is that of
São Gonçalo, a very popular
saint born at the end of the
12th century. There are many
stories of the dancing and
festivities he organized to keep
ladies from temptation by
finding them husbands, and he
has become associated with
matchmaking and fertility. On
the first weekend in June, the The Ponte de São Gonçalo across the Tâmega at Amarante
Festa de São Gonçalo begins
with prayers for a marriage carved in black wood, and are 5 Cinfães
partner, followed by dancing, 19th-century replacements
Road map D2. * 4,000. @
music and the giving of phallic- for a more ancient duo n Rua Capitão Salgueiro Maia (255
shaped São Gonçalo cakes. destroyed in the Peninsular 561 230). ( 10 & 26 of month.
When the old Roman bridge War. They gradually became
across the Tâmega collapsed the focus of a type of local Cinfães lies just above the Douro,
during floods in the 13th cen- fertility rite, and were tucked below the foothills of
tury, it was São Gonçalo who threatened with burning by an the Serra de Montemuro whose
was credited with replacing it. outraged bishop of Braga; the peaks rise over 1,000 m (3,300 ft).
The present Ponte de São diabo was “castrated” instead. The town is a gateway to
Gonçalo crosses to the The museum’s other prized Lamego and the Upper Douro
16th-century Igreja de São possession is the collection of to the east (see pp258–9) and is
Gonçalo, where his memory Cubist works by the artist after surrounded by verdant scenery.
lives on. In the chapel to the whom the museum is named. Cinfães itself is an agricultural
left of the chancel, the image Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso centre and local handicrafts
on his tomb has been eroded (1887–1918), one of Portugal’s include weaving, lacework,
through the embraces of leading 20th-century artists, basketry, and the production
thousands of devotees in was a native of Amarante. of miniature rabelos, the boats
search of his intercession. that used to ship port down the
The Museu Amadeo de R Igreja de São Gonçalo river to Porto (see p258).
Souza-Cardoso is housed Praça da República. Tel 255 422 050.
in the old monastery cloister Open daily. Environs
next to the church. One of the E Museu Amadeo Around 16 km (10 miles) west
exhibits describes a fertility de Souza-Cardoso of the town, at Tarouquela, is
cult that predates even São Alameda Teixeira de Pascoães. the 12th-century church of
Gonçalo. The diabo and diaba Tel 255 420 272. Open Tue–Sun. Santa Maria Maior. Romanesque
are a pair of bawdy devils Closed public hols. & columns flank the portal, while
later additions include the
14th-century Gothic mauso-
leum beside the chancel.
In the village of Cárquere,
between Cinfães and Lamego,
stands another church dedicated
to the Virgin Mary. Legend tells
how the sickly young Afonso
Henriques, future king of
Portugal, was healed at Cárquere
by his devoted aide, Egas Moniz.
In about 1110, guided by a
dream, Moniz unearthed a buried
statue of the Virgin and built a
church for her. Miraculously,
his young charge was cured
overnight. The present church
dates from the 14th or 15th
century, but the finest of its
treasures is a minute ivory carving
The 12th-century church of Nossa Senhora de Cárquere, near Cinfães of the Virgin, of unknown date.
Casa da Rede can be seen writings and other forms of local

from the roadside. Dating culture is of particular interest.
from the 15th century, and
occupied until the early 20th E Museu do Douro
century, ths house cannot be Rua Marquês de Pombal.
visited today. Tel 254 310 190. Open 10am–6pm
daily. Closed public hols.
7 Peso da Régua Environs

In the surrounding countryside
Road map D2. * 21,000. £ @
n Av. do Douro (254 312 846).
are some beautiful quintas,
( Wed & Sat. country estates producing port.
The Quinta da Pacheca is at
Developed from the villages of Cambres, 4 km (2 miles) to the
Peso and Régua in the 18th southwest. Dating from the
century, Peso da Régua is the 18th century, this winery also
major hub for rail and road produces red and white wines.
Painted ceiling panels in São Nicolau, connections in the region.
Mesão Frio’s Igreja Matriz In 1756, Régua, as the town is  Quinta da Pacheca
invariably called, was chosen by Cambres, 5100–424 Lamego. Tel 254
6 Mesão Frio the Marquês de Pombal as the 313 228. Open tours by appt only.
Road map D2. * 4,900. @

centre of the demarcated
n Avenida Conselheiro José Maria region for port production.
Alpoim (933 911 043). ( Fri. From here, rabelos, the tradi-
tional wooden sailing ships,
This scenic gateway to the transported the barrels of port
port-wine-growing region through hazardous gorges to
enjoys a fine setting above Vila Nova de Gaia (see p253).
the River Douro. Around it, the They continued to ply the river
majestic tiers of the Serra do even after the advent of the
Marão rise to form a natural Douro railway in the 1880s.
climatic shield for the vineyards Régua suffered frequently in
to the east. Mesão Frio itself is the past from severe floods,
known for its wickerwork and and these are still a threat,
a culinary speciality, falachas although they have lessened Stained-glass window of the Casa do Douro,
or chestnut cakes. since dams were built across the Peso da Régua, showing loaded rabelos
The Igreja Matriz of São Douro in the 1970s and 1980s.
Nicolau was rebuilt in 1877, Many visitors to Régua often
but has retained its magnificent pause here only briefly on their 8 Lamego
late 16th-century ceiling panels, way to explore the “port country”
Road map D2. * 11,000. @
each one bearing the portrait (see pp258–9), but budding n Rua Regimento de Infantária 9
of a saint. The tourist office is connoisseurs shouldn’t overlook (254 099 000). ( Thu.
housed in the pretty 18th- Peso da Régua. The Museu do
century cloisters of a former Douro, which is set in a beau- An attractive town within the
Franciscan monastery. tifully designed contemporary demarcated port area, Lamego
On the western edge of the building, portrays the region’s also produces wines, including
town, the lavish and Baroque rich heritage through paintings, Raposeira, Portugal’s premier
sparkling wine. This fertile
region is also known for its
fruit and choice hams.
In its more illustrious past,
Lamego claims to have been
host in 1143 to the first cortes, or
national assembly, to recognize
Afonso Henriques as first king
of Portugal. The town’s later
economic decline was halted in
the 16th century, when it turned
to wine and textile production,
and handsome Baroque
mansions from this prosperous
period are still a feature of the
town. Today, the main focus of
Vineyards on the slopes of the Serra do Marão around Mesão Frio Lamego is as a pilgrimage town.
to the great 16th-century

Portuguese artist, Grão Vasco
(see p219). Finely worked
16th-century Flemish tapestries
include a vividly detailed life
of Oedipus.
Environs
At the foot of the valley 4 km
(2 miles) east, the Capela de
São Pedro de Balsemão is said
to be the oldest church in
Portugal. Although much
modified, the 7th-century
sanctuary, of Visigothic origins,
remains. Here, in an ornate
tomb, lies Afonso Pires, a
14th-century bishop of Porto.
A statue of Nossa Senhora do
Ó, the pregnant Virgin, is from
the 15th century.
The 12th-century monastery
of São João de Tarouca, the
first Cistercian house in Portu-
gal, lies 16 km (10 miles) south
of Lamego. The interior of the
church has many fine 18th-
The grand staircase leading up to Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Lamego entury azulejo panels, notably
those in the chancel depicting
R Nossa Senhora original square tower, while the the founding of the monastery,
dos Remédios rest of the architecture reflects and in the sacristy, where none
Monte de Santo Estêvão. Open daily. modifications between the 16th of the 4,709 tiles has the same
A small hilltop chapel, and 18th centuries, including a design. The church also
originally dedicated in 1391 to Renaissance cloister with a contains a remarkable St Peter
St Stephen, became the focus of dozen arches. by Grão Vasco. The Count of
pilgrims devoted to the Virgin, Barcelos, bastard son of King
and in 1761 Nossa Senhora dos E Museu de Lamego Dinis, is buried here, his tomb
Remédios was built on the Largo de Camões. Tel 254 600 230. adorned with vigorous scenes
spectacular site. The church is Open daily. Closed public hols. & of a boar hunt.
reached via an awe-inspiring One of the country’s best Just to the northeast, Ucanha
double stairway, similar to local museums is housed in is famed for its fortified tollgate
Braga’s even larger Bom Jesus the former bishops’ palace. and bridge, imposing survivals
(see pp284–5). Its 686 steps and Pride of place goes to the from the 12th century.
nine terraces, embellished with strikingly original Criação dos
azulejos and urns, rise to the Animais (Creation of the R São João de Tarouca
Pátio dos Reis, a circle of noble Animals), part of a series of Signposted from N226. Tel 254 678
granite figures beneath the masterly altar panels attributed 766. Open daily. 7
twin-towered church. The
church itself is of marginal
interest, but there is a well-
earned view across the town to
the Douro and its tributaries.
In early September pilgrims
arrive in their thousands for
Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa
Senhora dos Remédios (see p36),
many of them climbing the
steps on their knees.
R Sé
Largo da Sé. Tel 254 612 147.
Open daily.
Lamego’s Gothic cathedral,
founded in 1129, retains its The monastery church of São João de Tarouca in its peaceful setting
9 Port Country Tour

The barrels of port maturing in the port lodges of Vila
Nova de Gaia (see p253) begin their life here, on the
wine estates (quintas) of the Upper Douro (see pp234–5).
Centuries of toil on the poor schist have created thou
sands of terraces along the steep river banks, many no
wider than a person’s outstretched arms. Many vine
yards have had their terraces widened to allow tractor
access, but some of the oldest ones are protected as
part of the cultural heritage. Many quintas, including
those shown on the map, welcome visitors. Early autumn
is the most rewarding time to tour; workers sing as they
pick, and celebrate a good vindima or harvest.
The village and vineyards of Vale de Mendiz just
before sunset
Vila Real
1 Peso da Régua São
Régua’s role as an administra Martinho
tive centre for port and, later,
for the wines of the region,
goes back to 1756. The rabelos
moored here are a reminder
of how port used to be trans
ported down to the lodges of
Vila Nova de Gaia. Paradela
de Guiães
Estrada
Galafura
Corgo
Quinta São Domingos Ferrão

Porto Quinta do Crasto
Quinta
Douro São Luís J
Folgosa
Joseph James Forrester, Port Baron

0 kilometres 5
In 1831, Joseph Forrester arrived from Britain to join his uncle’s
0 miles 3 wine company in Porto, and enthusiastically set about reforming
the port trade. In his 1844 treatise, A Word or Two on Port, he
waged war on shippers who adulterated the
wine. He also studied the vine blight, Oidium
tuckeri, drew up remarkably detailed maps of
Key the Douro valley and found time to become a
Tour route talented watercolourist. His contribution was
Other roads
such that in 1855 Pedro V bestowed on him
the title of Barão. In 1862, Forrester’s boat
Railway
capsized at Cachão de Valeira. Dragged
down by his moneybelt, he drowned, but
the ladies in his company survived,
buoyed up by their crinolines.

2 Pinhão
Many of the most Tips for Drivers
famous names in Tour length: 125 km (78 miles).
port production Beyond Pinhão, steep, narrow
have quintas close roads can make the going slow.
to this small town. Stopping-off points: The drive
Its railway station beside the Douro has several
is decorated with fine viewpoints. Régua and
24 dazzling azulejo Sabrosa make good overnight
panels depicting stops (see pp391–2) and many
local scenes and of the quintas offer tours and
folk culture. port-tasting.
3 Sabrosa
The village of Sabrosa, set
among vineyards above the
Sanfins do River Pinhão, has a wealth of
Douro
15th-century houses. It was in
one of these that the explorer
Cheires Magellan (see p52) was born
in about 1480.
Pin
hão
Quinta do São Mamede

Bucheiro de Ribatua • Tua
Quinta do Casal de Celeirós

Quinta do Portal
Mirandela
J
Vale de Mendiz
4 Alijó
Alijó was officially
Linhares founded in 1226, but a
number of castros (hill
Quinta D u o ro forts) in the area tell of
J
da Foz habitation from a much

Quinta de Quinta do Castelinho earlier date. The name
la Rosa of the pousada here,
the Barão de Forrester
(see p406), recalls the
J
Valença do Douro famous reformer.

ac
C
Quinta do Panascal J hão de Valeira
7 São João da Pesqueira

Tã
From São João da Pesqueira’s

vo
a
r
viewpoint, São Salvador do 5 Tua

Mundo, there are fine views Vila Nova de
Foz Côa
Tua, in a region famous for
Tabuaço of the valley and its vineyards. its luscious oranges and figs,
In early spring the landscape has long been a junction
foams with almond blossom. on the Douro railway line.
Travelling on one of the
infrequent trains is an enjoy-
able way of seeing the valley’s
terraced vineyards.
6 Barragem de Valeira
Until the end of the 18th century the
Douro was unnavigable beyond Cachão
de Valeira. Even when engineers had
bypassed the worst of the rapids, this
stretch of water remained treacherous –
it was here that Baron Forrester met his
death – until the water was tamed by
the Valeira dam in 1976.
0 Casa de Mateus
The splendid manor house, or solar, depicted on the labels
of Mateus Rosé epitomizes the flamboyance of Baroque
architecture in Portugal. It was built in the early 18th century,
probably by Niccolò Nasoni, for António José Botelho Mourão,
whose descendants still live here. The house, which was
declared a national monument in 1911, is also a breeding
ground for creativity, offering 11 six-month residencies to The wood-panelled library, repository of
budding artists. many valuable works
chapel beside the house). Also

The Manor House Salon of the Four Seasons gets on display in the museum is
Inside and out, the Casa de its name from the large 18th- family correspondence with
Mateus was conceived to pre- century paintings on its walls. famous figures of the era,
sent carefully created vistas Many of the paintings in the including Frederick the Great
and series of mirror house were contri- and Wellington.
images. A formal buted by the 4th
pool added in the Morgado’s uncle, The Gardens
1930s continues an archdeacon in Beneath the entrance staircase
this spirit of Rome who was a dark passageway leads
harmonious also responsible between the stables to an inner
repetition, reflect- for the original courtyard and out to the formal
ing the main façade gardens. The library, gardens on the far side of the
and its two wings. Coat of arms on the remodelled in the mid- house. Little remains of the
Tours start in the first- entrance hall ceiling 20th century, contains original gardens planted by the
floor entrance salon, a volumes dating back horticultural archdeacon, and
well-proportioned room graced to the 16th century, but the the present gardens were laid
by a pair of sedan chairs and rarest book is in the small out in the 1930s and 1940s. The
with a magnificent wooden museum: an 1817 copy of style, however, is of an earlier,
ceiling featuring family coats of Os Lusíadas (see p194), with romantic era and the complex
arms. Doorcases and ceilings engravings by leading artists. parterres and formal beds
throughout the house are of It is one of a limited edition edged with tightly clipped
richly carved chestnut. The Tea produced by the colourful dwarf box hedges form a living
Salon has a 17th-century diplomat grandson of the tapestry that reflects perfectly
William and Mary cupboard and 3rd Morgado (his the ornate symmetry of the
matching longcase clock tomb is in house. In winter
from England, the family
while the
The principal façade of the Casa de Mateus, its pinnacled symmetry reflected in a rectangular pool
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST q Vila Real black pottery. Examples can

be seen displayed for sale
Road map D2. * 20,000. £ @
n Avenida Carvalho Araujo 94 at the annual Festa de São
Road map D2. Mateus, 3 km Pedro, celebrated in Vila Real
(259 308 170). ( Tue & Fri.
(2 miles) E of Vila Real. Tel 259 323 each year on 28–29 June. Also
121. Open May–Oct: 9am–7:30pm Perched over a gorge cut by the seen at this time is the fine
daily (Apr: to 7pm; Nov–Mar: to confluence of the Cabril and linen from nearby Agarez.
5:30pm). Closed 25 Dec. Corgo rivers, Vila Real is a busy
& gardens only.
commercial centre. As the
8 compulsory in house. = -
∑ casademateus.com
communications hub of the
Upper Douro, it makes a
Transport convenient starting point from
£ to Vila Real. @ which to explore the valley of
the Douro to the south and the
Parque Natural do Alvão to
the northwest. Vila Real also
has a motor-racing circuit,
which hosts major events each
year during June and July.
Midway along the broad
main street, Avenida Carvalho The scenic Parque Natural do Alvão
Araújo, is the 15th-century Sé.
This fine Gothic cathedral was w Parque Natural
originally the church of a do Alvão
Dominican friary. The other Road map D1. @ to Ermelo via
Immaculate box-edged flower beds in the monastic buildings burnt down Campeã. n Lago dos Freitas, Parque
Casa de Mateus gardens in suspicious circumstances in Natural do Alvão (259 302 830).
the mid-19th century.
the grand old camellias, relics At the southern end of the Within the 72 sq km (28 sq
from the 19th century, are a avenue, a plaque on the wall at miles) of the nature reserve
highlight of the gardens, but No. 19 marks the birthplace of between the Corgo and Tâmega
for most visitors the lasting Diogo Cão, the explorer who rivers, the scenery ranges from
memory is of the vast cedar discovered the mouth of the verdant, cultivated lowlands to
tunnel, greatest among the Congo in 1482 (see pp52–3). bleak heights that reach 1,339 m
many pieces of topiary here. The Igreja dos Clérigos, in (4,393 ft) at Alto das Caravelas.
Beyond the formal gardens nearby Rua dos Combatentes Despite hunters and habitat
lie the well-ordered orchards da Grande Guerra, is also known encroachment, hawks, dippers
and fields of the estate. as Capela Nova. It presents a and otters can still be spotted.
pleasing Baroque façade Between the picturesque
attributed to Niccolò Nasoni hamlets of Ermelo and Lamas de
and an interior of fine blue and Olo, where maize is still kept in
white azulejos. espigueiros (see p277), the Olo
drops in a spectacular cascade,
Environs the Fisgas de Ermelo. From Alto
The small village of Bisalhães, do Velão, just southwest of the
6 km (4 miles) to the west, is park, are splendid views west
famed for its boldly designed over the Tâmega valley.
The Cedar Tunnel

This celebrated feature in the
Casa de Mateus garden was
formed from cedars planted in
1941. It is 35 m (115 ft) long and
7.5 m (25 ft) high, the tight-knit
greenery providing an aro-
matic walk in summer. To keep
it in shape, gardeners have to
scale specially fashioned
outsize ladders.
Vila Real, situated on the northern side of the Douro river valley
r Chaves exquisite interior lined with

18th-century azulejos.
Road map D1. * 18,000. @
n Terreiro da Cavalaria (276 348 180). Attributed to Policarpo de
( Wed. Oliveira Bernardes (see p30),
the huge panels depict scenes
Beside the upper reaches of from the New Testament.
the Tâmega stands historic
Chaves, attractively sited in the
middle of a fertile plain.
A farmer and his grazing ox near Thermal springs and nearby
Carvalhelhos, Serra do Barroso gold deposits encouraged the
Romans to establish Aquae
e Serra do Barroso Flaviae here in AD 78. Its stra-
Road map D1. @ to Montalegre or
tegic position led to successive
Boticas. n Terreiro do Açougue, invasion and occupation by
Montalegre (276 510 205). the Suevi, Visigoths and Moors,
before the Portuguese gained
Just southeast of the Parque final possession in 1160. The
Nacional da Peneda-Gerês (see name Chaves (“keys”) is often
pp276 –7) is the wild and remote associated with the keys of
Serra do Barroso. The landscape the north awarded to Nuno
of heathery hillsides is split by Álvares Pereira, hero of
the immense Barragem do Aljubarrota (see p189). A likelier
Alto Rabagão, the largest of but more pedestrian explan-
many reservoirs in the area ation is that Chaves is simply a
created by the damming of corruption of the Latin “Flaviae”. The 14th-century keep of Chaves castle, set
rivers for hydroelectric power. Today Chaves is renowned in formal gardens
Water is a mainstay of the local for its spa and historic centre,
economy: a high rainfall enables and for its smoked hams. E Museu Militar and Museu
farmers to eke out an existence A curiosity of the north, the da Região Flaviense
on the poor soil, and the arti- distinctive black pottery is Praça de Camões. Tel 276 340 500.
ficial lakes attract fishing and made in nearby Nantes. Open daily. Closed public hols.
water sports enthusiasts. The The old town focuses on & joint ticket.
source of one of the country’s the Praça de Camões. The Within the castle keep is a small
most popular bottled mineral 14th-century keep overlooking military museum, where suits of
waters is at Carvalhelhos. this pleasant medieval square is armour, uniforms and associated
The village of Boticas nearby all that remains of the castle regalia are on display. Also
produces a beverage with a given to Nuno Álvares Pereira exhibited are military memor-
more original claim to fame. by João I. On the south side of abilia from the city’s defence
In 1809, the locals buried their the square stands the Igreja against the attack by Royalists
wine rather than have it fall into Matriz with its fine Romanesque from Spain in 1912. In the
the hands of the invading portal. The Baroque Misericórdia flower-filled garden surrounding
French. When the enemy de- church opposite has an the keep are a few archaeo-
parted, the wine was retrieved logical finds from
and found to have improved. Chaves’s long history,
The bottles were colloquially but most are to be
termed mortos (“dead”), hence found in the Museu
the name of the wine – vinho da Região Flaviense
dos mortos. The practice con- behind the keep.
tinues and bottles are usually Here, in the Paço dos
buried for up to two years. Duques de Bragança,
The area’s principal town are displayed a variety
is Montalegre, on a plateau of local archaeological
to the north. Its most notable discoveries. Items of
feature is the imposing keep, interest include sou-
27 m (88 ft) high, of the ruined venirs of the Roman
14th-century castle. occupation, such as
Oxen are bred in the Serra, milestones and coins,
and inter-village chegas dos alongside an oxcart
bois (ox fights) are a popular and a straw mantle
pastime. The contest is usually of the type worn by
decided within half an hour, shepherds for
when the weaker ox takes to protection in the
its heels. Tiled and gilded Misericórdia church at Chaves rain or the hot sun.
P Ponte Romana renovated but retains the y Mirandela

The 16-arch Roman bridge regal charm of its park, lakes Road map D1. * 11,000. £ @ n
across the Tâmega was com- and pump room. Rua D Afonso III (278 203 143). ( Thu.
pleted around AD 100, at the
time of the Emperor Trajan. Its Mirandela, at the end of the Tua
construction brought added narrow-gauge railway line, has
importance to Chaves as a pretty gardens running down to
staging post on the route be- the River Tua and an elegant
tween Braga and Astorga (in Roman bridge with 20
northwestern Spain). On the asymmetrical arches. Built for
bridge are Roman milestones the deployment of troops and
which record that funds to to aid the transport of ore from
build it were raised locally. local mines, it was rebuilt in the
16th century and is now for
P Thermal springs pedestrians only.
Largo da Caldas. Displayed in the Museu
Tel 276 332 445. Open daily. 7 Municipal Armindo Teixeira
A few minutes on foot from Lopes are sculpture, prints and
the city centre is one of the paintings, including views of
hottest springs in Europe. Murça’s Misericórdia chapel, with its Lisbon and Mirandela by the
Water here bubbles up at a vine-embellished pillars local 20th-century artist after
temperature of 73°C (163°F) whom the museum is named.
and the spa’s facilities attract t Murça The 17th-century town hall
both holiday-makers and Road map D2. * 7,000. @
once belonged to the Távoras,
patients seeking treatment n Alameda do Paço (936 548 088). but the family was accused of
(see p215). Chaves water is ( 13 & 28 of month. attempted regicide in 1759 and
recommended for the treat- all trace of them was erased.
ment of ailments as diverse as The market town of Murça is
rheumatism, kidney dysfunction famed for its honey, goat’s E Museu Municipal
and hypertension. cheese and sausage. Its major Armindo Teixeira Lopes
attraction, and the focal point of Rua Coronel Sarmento Pimentel.
the garden in the main square, Tel 278 201 590. Open Mon –Fri;
is its porca, an Iron Age granite Sat pm. Closed public hols.
pig with a substantial girth of
2.8 m (9 ft) (see p44). The role Environs
of berrões, as beasts such as In a pretty valley 15 km (9 miles)
these are called, is enigmatic, northeast of Mirandela lies
but they may have been linked Romeu. Its Museu das
The huge cleft Pedra Bolideira near Chaves to fertility cults. Smaller versions Curiosidades, as the name
survive in Bragança, Chaves and implies, is a hotchpotch of exhibits
Environs elsewhere. In more recent from the turn of the century
Close to the village of Soutelo, times the Murça porca has onwards. The collection of the
4 km (2 miles) northwest of been pressed into service at local Menéres family, it includes
Chaves (the route is sign- elections, when the winning Model-T Fords, musical boxes
posted), is the strange Outeiro political parties would paint and early photographic equip-
Machado Boulder. It measures her in their colours. ment. Next door is the famed
50 m (164 ft) in length and is The Misericórdia chapel Maria Rita restaurant (see p408).
covered with mysterious hiero- on the main street is notable
glyphs and symbols of unknown for its early Baroque façade, E Museu das Curiosidades
meaning. These may be Celtic attractively ornamented with Jerusalém do Romeu. Tel 278 939 133.
in origin. designs of vines and grapes. Open Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. &
Another gigantic boulder,
the Pedra Bolideira, lies near
Bolideira, 16 km (10 miles) east
of Chaves. Split in two, the
massive larger section balances
lightly, needing only a gentle
push to rock it to and fro.
The spa town of Vidago,
17 km (11 miles) southwest of
Chaves, is well known for its
therapeutic water. The Vidago
Palace Hotel (see p392), once
the haunt of royalty, has been The River Tua at Mirandela, with its Roman bridge and waterside parks
u Bragança: the Citadel

This strategic hilltop was the site of a succession
of forts before Fernão Mendes, brother-in-law
to King Afonso Henriques, built a walled citadel
here in 1130. Like several predecessors, it was
named Brigantia. Within the walls still stand
Sancho I’s castle, built in 1187, with its watch-
towers and dungeons, and the pentagonal
12th-century Domus Municipalis beside the
church of Santa Maria.
The town gave its name to Portugal’s final
royal dynasty, descended from an illegitimate
son of João I who was created first Duke of Bragança’s walled citadel on its
Bragança in 1442 (see p305). isolated hilltop Porta da Traição
The Museu Militar in the robust

Gothic keep includes memorabilia
from the Africa campaigns (1895)
of a local regiment. The keep is
33 m (108 ft) high.
The medieval pillory

has the appearance of
skewering a hapless
porca, an ancient
stone pig (see p44),
to the pedestal.
O
. Castle AV
BR
The castle’s Torre da Princesa, O
scene of many tragic tales, ÃO
was refuge to Dona Sancha, Porta RN
FE
unhappy wife of Fernão da Vila M
DO
Mendes, and prison to A
other mistreated wives. RU
Porta de Santo António
To town
Santa Maria
The church’s elaborately
carved portal dates from its
18th-century restoration.
. Domus Municipalis
This, the only surviving example of
Romanesque civic architecture in
Portugal, served as a hall where the
homens bons (“good men”) settled
disputes. Below was the town’s cistern.
Road Map E1. * 35,000.
n Avenida Cidade de Zamora
(273 381 273); Rua Abílio
Beça (273 331 078). ( Fri.
_ mid-Aug: Nossa Senhora
das Graças. Castle and Museu
Militar: Tel 273 322 378.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public
hols. &
Key Museu Abade de Baçal gardens, where archaeological finds are displayed
Suggested route
Beyond the Citadel and instruments of torture.
By the 15th century, Bragança In the garden are a variety of
0 metres 50 had expanded west along the archaeological discoveries
0 yards 50 banks of the River Fervença. including porcas and tablets
The Jewish quarter in Rua dos with Luso-Roman inscriptions.
Fornos survives from this era,
when Jews from North Africa R São Bento
Porta do Sol and Spain settled here and Rua de São Francisco. Open by
founded the silk industry. appointment. 7
Despite its royal links, the town Founded in 1590 by Bishop
never overcame its isolation, the António Pinheiro, São Bento
Bragança monarchs preferring has two startlingly contrasting
Vila Viçosa (see pp304–5). Only ceilings: a splendid canopy of
now are the investments of Moorish-influenced geometric
returning emigrants and the carving in the chancel, and a
completion of the Porto-Spain richly coloured 18th-century
motor way reviving trade. A trompe l’oeil over the nave.
cathedral “for the millennium” was
inaugurated in 1996, another R São Vicente
indicator of the city’s rebirth. Largo do Principal. Open variable hours.
Near the modest old cathedral The secret wedding between
in the town centre is a lively Inês de Castro and Dom Pedro is
covered market where reputed to have taken place here
delicacies such as smoked in 1354 (see p185). The original
hams and alheiras (chicken 13th-century church was
sausages) are sold. reconstructed in the 17th century
with the addition of a great deal
E Museu Abade de Baçal of sumptuous gilt work. The
Rua Abílio Beça 27. Tel 273 331 595. azulejo panel to the right of the
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. main door depicts General
& (free first Sun of month). Sepúlveda exhorting the citizens
The Abbot of Baçal (1865–1947) of Bragança to free themselves
was a prodigious scholar whose from French occupation in 1809.
definitive researches into the
region’s history and customs,
including its Jewish connec-
tions, were published in 11
volumes. Bragança’s museum
is named after him.
Highlights among the paint-
ings are The Martyrdom of St
Ignatius, an unsigned triptych
of the 16th century, and water-
Houses within the Citadel colours by Aurélia de Sousa
Bragança had outgrown the (1865–1922), including A
citadel by the 15th century, Sombra (In the Shade). In
but streets of small houses still another section are colourful Street in the old Jewish quarter, sloping
cluster within the walls. pauliteiros costumes (see p233) steeply down to the river
keep remains). This mishap,

compounded by the transfer of
the bishopric to Bragança, led
the town into a deep economic
decline, only halted by trade
links with the coast and Spain.
The lovely twin-towered Sé
was founded in the 16th
century. The graceful wood-
carvings of the chancel retable
depict, among other themes,
The sparsely inhabited landscape of the Parque Natural de Montesinho the apostles and the Virgin
attended by angels. But the
i Parque Natural their stone houses, wooden cathedral’s most original feature
balconies and cobbled streets. is a wooden figure of the Boy
de Montesinho Ancient practices such as herbal Jesus in the south transept.
Road map E1. @ to Rio de Onor & cures and reverence for the The Menino Jesus da Cartolinha
Vinhais. n Parque Florestal, Bragança supernatural linger, and ties are represents a boy who, legend
(273 300 400). communal rather than national: tells, appeared during a Spanish
in Rio de Onor Spanish and siege in 1711 to rally the
One of the wildest areas in Portuguese have been welded demoralized Portuguese to
Europe, the reserve covers 700 into a unique dialect, Rionorês. miraculous victory. Devotees
sq km (270 sq miles) between dressed the statue in 17th-
Bragança and the border with century costume and later
Spain. The region, understand- o Miranda do gave him a top hat (cartolinha).
ably, is known as Terra Fria Douro The excellent Museu da Terra
(Cold Land). Bleak mountains de Miranda houses an eclectic
Road map E1. * 3,000. @ n Largo
rise to 1,481 m (4,859 ft) above do Menino Jesus da Cartolinha (273
display of archaeological finds,
heather and broom, descending 431 132). ( 1st day of month. folk costume, a reconstruction of
to oak forests and valleys of a Mirandês farmhouse parlour
alder and willow. This medieval outpost stands on and curious rural devices such
Spectacular views of the park top of the Douro gorge, which as an inflated pig’s-bladder cosh.
can be enjoyed from Vinhais, here forms an abrupt
on its southern fringe, and the border with Spain. Its
wilderness attracts walkers key position and the
and riders – mountain bikes and establishment of a
horses can be hired locally. bishopric here in 1545
The population clusters in paved the way for the
farming communities on the town’s development into
lowlands, leaving much of the cultural and religious
the Serra an undisturbed centre of Trás-os-Montes.
habitat for rare species such as But in 1762, during the
wolves and golden eagles, as Seven Years’ War against
well as boars, otters and falcons. France and Spain, the Farm parlour, Museu da Terra de Miranda
Little changed from medieval powder store exploded,
times, villages such as França claiming 400 lives and E Museu da Terra de Miranda
and Montesinho are typical in destroying the castle (only the Largo Dom João III. Tel 273 417 288.
Open Tue pm & Wed–Sun.
Closed public hols. & (free first
The Dovecotes Sun of month).
of Montesinho
Doves supply not only food but Environs
also droppings, which are highly Just southwest of Miranda, the
prized as fertilizer. In this part of village of Duas Igrejas is famed
Trás-os-Montes the traditional for its stick dancers, or pauliteiros,
horseshoe-shaped dovecote or who perform at local festivals and
pombal is still a familiar sight, overseas (see p233). The tradition
although many are now disused. is in decline, but for the Festa de
The birds nest in rough cells inside Santa Bárbara, on the third Sunday
the whitewashed schist walls and in August, the dancers don their
enter and leave through gaps in distinctive black and white cos-
A distinctive pombal or dovecote still the tile or slate roof. They are fed tumes and are accompanied in
found around Montesinho via a small raised door at the front their energetic display by drums
of the pombal.
and gaita de foles (bagpipes).
The church and town of Mogadouro, viewed from beside the ruins of its 13th-century castle
p Mogadouro Environs T Parque Arqueológico do Vale

The fate of the Côa valley, do Côa/Museu do Côa
Road map E2. * 3,000. @
south of Moncorvo, was finally Rua do Museu, Vila Nova de Foz Côa.
n Av dos Comandos (279 340 501).
decided in 1996 when plans Tel 279 768 260. Open Tue–Sun.
( 2 & 16 of month.
for a dam were dropped to Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. & 8
Apart from the hilltop tower, preserve the world’s largest ∑ arte-coa.pt
little remains of the great castle collection of open-air Stone
founded here by King Dinis and Age rock art. Discovered in 1933
presented to the Templars in and estimated to be 20,000 years s Freixo de Espada
1297. From the top there are old, it features bulls, horses, fish à Cinta
fine views over the little market and a naked man, the Homem
Road map E2. * 5,000. @
town known for its handicrafts, de Pisco. Vila Nova de Foz Côa, n Praça Jorge Álvares (279 653 480).
particularly leather goods. Castelo Melhor and Muxagata ( Second Sat of every month..
Mogadouro’s 16th-century offer several guided tours a day
Igreja Matriz features a 17th- into the Parque Arqueológico Several stories try to explain the
century tower, while lavishly do Vale do Côa, and visits must curious name of this remote
gilded retables from the 18th be booked in advance. The border town. “Ash tree of the
century decorate the altars. Museu do Côa has interesting girt sword” may derive from the
art and archaeological exhibits arms of a Spanish nobleman, or
a Torre de on the Côa Valley. a Visigoth called Espadacinta, or
from a tale that, when founding
Moncorvo the town in the 14th century,
Road map E2. * 3,000. @ King Dinis strapped his sword
n Rua dos Sapateiros 15 (279 252 to an ash.
289). ( 8 & 23 of month. Dominating the skyline is the
heptagonal Torre do Galo, a relic
Famed for the white mantle of from the 14th-century defences.
almond blossom that fleetingly Views from the top are splendid,
covers the valleys in early spring especially in spring when the
(egg-shaped amêndoas almond blossom attracts a great
cobertas, sugared almonds, are many tourists. The cultivation of
an Easter treat), Moncorvo also silkworms shows a revival of the
offers an atmospheric stroll 18th-century industry. The
through its maze of medieval intricate 16th-century portal of
streets. Its name is variously the Igreja Matriz leads into a
attributed to a local nobleman, splendid small-scale version of
Mendo Curvo, or perhaps to his Belém’s Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
raven (corvo). (see pp108–9). Panels of the
The ponderous 16th-century altarpiece, attributed to Grão
Igreja Matriz, the largest in Vasco (see p219), include a
Trás-os-Montes, boasts a fine Annunciation.
17th-century altarpiece
depicting scenes from the life + Torre do Galo
of Christ. Rich interior of the Igreja Matriz at Freixo Praça Jorge Álvares. Open daily.
NORTHERN PORTUGAL  269
MINHO
Known as the birthplace of the nation, the Minho has two
of Portugal’s most historic cities: its first capital, Guimarães,
and Braga, the north’s main religious centre. Life in the
province is still firmly rooted in tradition. Agriculture thrives
thanks to abundant rainfall that makes this the greenest
area in Portugal.
The province of Minho occupies land followed by the Visigoths, who were
between the River Douro in the south ousted in turn by the Moorish invasion
and the River Minho in the north. of 711. The Minho was won back from
Fortified hilltop stone forts (castros) the Moors in the 9th century. The region
remain as evidence of the Neolithic rose to prominence in the 1100s under
history of the region. When Celtic Afonso Henriques (see pp46–7), who pro-
peoples migrated into the area in claimed himself the first king of Portugal
the first millennium BC, these sites and chose Guimarães as his capital.
developed into citânias (settlements) The Minho’s fertile farms and estates
such as Briteiros. have been handed down within families
In the 2nd century BC, advancing for centuries, each heir traditionally
Roman legions conquered the land, receiving a share of the land. The
introduced vine-growing techniques economy of the Minho concentrates
and constructed a network of roads. on medium-scale industry around
Roman milestones are still visible in Braga and Guimarães. Agriculture in the
Peneda-Gerês National Park. When valleys includes production of the area’s
Christianity became the official distinctive vinhos verdes or “green wines”.
religion of the Roman empire in the Despite the growth of tourism, the Minho
4th century AD, Braga became an has maintained its strong folk traditions.
important religious centre, a position Carnivals and street markets pervade
it holds to this day. The Suevi swept everyday life and ox-drawn carts are still
aside the Romans in the 5th century, in use.
Cows being herded across a bridge near the Brejoeira Palace, south of Monção
Aerial view of the basilica at Monte de Santa Luzia, near Viana do Castelo
Exploring the Minho

In the south of the Minho lie Braga and Guimarães,
the two major cities of the region, both rich in
historic sights. From Braga, the Baroque splendour
of Bom Jesus or the ruins of Citânia de Briteiros, the
country’s largest Iron Age site, are within easy reach.
Between Braga and the coast lies Barcelos, the
Foal grazing in the Parque Nacional da
ceramics centre of the region, famed for its weekly Peneda-Gerês
market. Travelling north, the pretty town of Viana do
Castelo is a useful base from which to explore the Vigo
coast. Turning inland again, the picturesque market MONÇÃO
R io M in h o
town of Ponte de Lima, beside the River Lima, is
VALENÇA
one of many places in the Minho that provide DO MINHO
Sago
accommodation in traditional manor houses. Pias Merufe

In the north of the Minho, the River Minho forms São Pedro Cerdal
the border with Spain. Along the river, fortified da Torre Portela do Sistelo
Extremo
towns offer magnificent views into Spain. To the Vila Nova Insalde
northeast, walkers and wildlife enthusiasts de Cerveira
São Bento Cabreiro
should not miss the dramatic mountain Sapardos
Paredes
ranges of the Parque Nacional da Lanhelas
de Coura
Seia Gondoriz
Peneda-Gerês. Covas
CAMINHA Vilar de
Mouros Romarigães
Foz do Minho
Moledo Arga de V I A N A Rio Frio Arcos de
São João
D O C A S T E L O Valdevez
Vila Praia Orbacém
Bravães
ra
de Âncora
ga
r
Afife Se Ar Lim
a
PONTE DA
do Rio
BARCA
Sta. Comba
Montedo Outeiro PONTE DE LIMA
0 kilometres 10
Lanheses Portela
0 miles 5 Perre Correlha do Vade
Queijada
VIANA DO
CASTELO Darque Deocriste Corvos
Cabedelo Caldelas
Barroselas Vila Verde
Castelo do Balugães
Neiva
Prado
Palme
Mar BOM JESUS
Abade do Neiva DO MONTE
Eirôgo o
ad BRAGA
Esposende Cáv
BARCELOS Rio
Martim
Fão
Vila Seca
Tebosa
Nine
Estela Necessidades
Rates Vermoin
A Ver-
o-mar Vila Nova de
Famalicão
Rio Mau Riba d’Ave
Póvoa de
Varzim
Ribeirão
VILA DO
CONDE Rio Ave
Árvore Porto
Manueline portal on the 16th-century parish church, Porto
Vila do Conde

MINHO  271
Sights at a Glance
1 Caminha
2 Valença do Minho
3 Monção
4 Parque Nacional da Peneda-
Gerês pp276–7
Ourense 5 Ponte da Barca
6 Ponte de Lima
São 7 Viana do Castelo pp280–81
Melgaço Gregório
8 Vila do Conde
Rio Tranc
9 Barcelos
Penso 0 Braga pp282–3

q Bom Jesus do Monte pp284–5
oso
Castro w Guimarães
Cubalhão Laboreiro
Lamas de e Citânia de Briteiros
Mouro
r Cabeceiras de Basto
da
ne
Pe
Senhora Vinho verde vineyards near Monção

da Peneda
da
ra
Getting Around
Ser
PARQ
Tourém The road system is efficient, with

Mezio motorways joining Porto with
UE
Soajo Braga, Guimarães, Valença on the

Lindoso Pitões Spanish border and Viana do
s
rê
Britelo
NA
Castelo along the coast. Elsewhere

Ge
in the region, potholes are a

CI
Entre Portela do
N ÊS common hazard, and motorists
O
Homem
do
ER
Ambos-os-Rios AL
-G need to allow time for the scenic
DA PENEDA Outeiro
routes winding through the
Campo do Gerês mountains in the east. Train routes
rra
Paradela
link Porto to Barcelos and Viana do
Se
Caldas
do Gerês Castelo, en route to the border
Terras do
Cabril
with Spain; separate lines run to
Bouro
Guimarães and Braga from Porto.
Vilar da Veiga Salamonde A bus network provides frequent
service to the main towns, but it is
Caniçada
Chaves reduced for more isolated destina
Amares
Cerdeirinhas Vieira do tions, especially those in the east.
Minho
BRAGA
S e r ra
Póvoa de do B a r ro s o
Lanhoso Rossas
Eiró
Arosa
CITÂNIA DE
BRITEIROS CABECEIRAS
Freitas DE BASTO
Caldas das Baúlhe Vila Pouca
Taipas Moreira de Aguiar
São Torcato Key
ega
de Rei
R i o Tâm
Fafe Motorway
GUIMARÃES
Major road
Penha
Mondim de Basto Minor road
Celorico de Basto Scenic route

Caldas de
Vizeia Main railway
Felgueiras Minor railway
Vila Real
Amarante National border
Regional border
Environs across the river into Galicia.

Foz do Minho, the Although the town was briefly
mouth of the Minho, captured by Napoleonic troops
lies 5 km (3 miles) in 1807, its formidable bastions
southwest of town. resisted subsequent shelling
From here local fisher and attacks from across the river
men will take groups in 1809.
(by prior arrange Lining the cobbled alleys of
ment) to the ruined the old quarter are shops full of
island fortress of Forte linen, wickerwork, pottery and
da Ínsua. handicrafts to tempt the
The small walled town thousands of Spanish visitors
of Vila Nova de Cerveira, who stroll across the bridge to
12 km (7 miles) north shop. South of the ramparts
east of Caminha on is the newer part of town.
the road to Valença, has In Praça de São Teotónio,
a 16thcentury castle. Casa do Eirado (1448) boasts
The tranquil atmos a crenellated roof and late
phere is ideal for a Gothic window, adorned with
Popular cafés in Praça do Conselheiro Silva Torres, stroll in narrow streets the builder’s signature. The
Caminha’s attractive main square lined with 17th and 18thcentury Casa do Poço
18thcentury mansions, presents symmetrical windows
1 Caminha or along the river front, where a and wroughtiron balconies.
Road map C1. * 2,000. g £ @
car ferry runs to the Spanish
n Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres (258 town of Goián.
921 952). ( Wed.
This ancient fortress town 2 Valença do

perches beside the Minho with Minho
fine views across the river to
Road map C1. * 3,000. £ @
Spain. Occupied in Celtic and n Paiol do Campo de Marte (251 823
Roman times for its strategic 329). ( Wed & first Sun of month.
position, Caminha developed
into a major port until the Set in a commanding position
diversion of its trade to Viana on a hilltop overlooking the
do Castelo in the 16th century. River Minho, Valença is an
Today it is a small port, with attractive border town with
a daily ferry connection to an old quarter set in the narrow A quiet sunlit corner in the old quarter of
A Guarda in Spain. confines of two doublewalled Valença do Minho
On the main square is the forts, shaped like crowns and
13thcentury Torre do Relógio linked by a causeway. During Environs
clock tower, once a gateway in the reign of Sancho I (1185– The Convento de Ganfei, 5 km
the medieval defensive walls, 1211), the town was named (3 miles) east of Valença on the
and the 16thcentury Paços do Contrasta, due to its position N101, was reconstructed in the
Concelho with its attractive facing the Spanish town of Tui. 11th century by a Norman priest.
loggia supported by pillars. The forts date from the It retains pleasing Romanesque
Cross to the other side of the 17th and 18th centuries and features, including ornamental
square, past the Renaissance were designed according to animal and plant motifs and
fountain, to admire the seven the prin ciples of the French vestiges of medieval frescoes.
Manueline windows on the architect Vauban. There are To visit the chapel, ask for the
upper storey of the Solar dos fine views from the ramparts key at the house opposite.
Pitas mansion (17th century).
The Rua Ricardo Joaquim de
Sousa leads to the Gothic Igreja
Matriz. Begun in the late 15th
century, it has a superb inlaid
ceiling of panels carved in
Mudéjar (Moorish) style.
Renaissance carvings above the
side doors depict the apostles,
the Virgin, and several figures in
daring poses, including one
man with his posterior bared
towards Spain. Part of the walls and ramparts surrounding Valença do Minho
MINHO  273
3 Monção
Road map C1. * 25,000. @
n Praça Deu la Deu, Casa do Curro
(251 649 013). ( Thu.
A remote and charming town,

Monção once formed part of
the string of fortified border
posts standing sentinel on
the River Minho. Both the town’s
main squares are lined with
old houses, and decorated
with chestnut trees, flowerbeds
and mosaic paths.
The 13th-century Igreja Matriz
in Rua João de Pinho boasts an
outstanding Romanesque door- Bridge across the Lima at Ponte da Barca, with the town behind
way of sculpted acanthus flowers.
Inside, to the right of the transept was built in Romanesque style that replaced the boat once
is the cenotaph of the valiant in the 12th century. The exterior used to ferry pilgrims across
Deu-la-Deu Martins, the town’s capitals and interior apse have the River Lima (ponte means
heroine, erected in 1679 by a fantastical sculpted figures, bridge, and barca means boat).
descendant. A leafy avenue including serpents and monkeys. A stroll through the tranquil
east of the town leads to the Visits are arranged by the tourist town centre leads past the
hot mineral springs used for office in Monção. pillory (crowned with sphere
the treatment of rheumatism. The town of Melgaço, 24 km and pyramid), the graceful
A colourful element in the (15 miles) east of Monção pro- arcades and noble mansions
June Corpus Christi festival vides a useful gateway to the from the 16th and 17th cent-
is the Festa da Coca, when Peneda-Gerês National Park. uries. The Jardim dos Poetas
St George engages the dragon (Poets’ Garden) and riverside
(coca) in comic ritual combat parks are ideal for picnics, and
before giving the final blow. 4 Parque Nacional the huge open-air market along
da Peneda-Gerês the river is well worth a visit.
Environs
See pp276–7.
The countryside around Environs
Monçao produces excellent Some of Portugal’s finest
vinho verde (see p33); one of 5 Ponte da Barca Romanesque carvings are on
the best-known estates is the the 13th-century church at
Road map C1. * 2,000. @
privately owned Neo-Classical n Rua Conselheiro Rocha Peixoto 9
Bravães, 4 km (2 miles) west
Palácio de Brejoeira, 5 km (258 455 246). ( every other Wed. of Ponte da Barca. Sculpted
(3 miles) south of town. monkeys, oxen and birds of
About 5 km (3 miles) south- The town of Ponte da Barca prey decorate the columns of
east of Monção, the monastery derives its name from the its main portal; the tympanum
of São João de Longos Vales graceful 15th-century bridge shows Christ in majesty flanked
by two angels.
The town of Arcos de
The Heroic Deu-la-Deu Martins Valdevez, 5 km (3 miles) north
In 1368, when a Spanish army had besieged Monção to the verge of Ponte da Barca, nestles by the
of starvation, Deu-la-Deu Martins used the last of the town’s flour banks of the River Vez and lies
to bake rolls that she flung over the walls to the Spaniards, with within convenient reach of
taunts that there were plenty more Peneda-Gerês National Park.
to throw at them. Thinking their The impressive church of Nossa
time was being wasted in a futile Senhora da Lapa was built in
siege, the troops soon withdrew. 1767 by André Soares. This
In gratitude for saving the town, Baroque showpiece has an
the heroic Deu-la-Deu (the name
oval exterior, yet transforms
means “God gave her”) is remem-
the interior into an octagon.
bered on the town’s coat of arms,
where she is shown holding a
Hiking enthusiasts should
loaf of bread in each hand. ask the tourist office for direc-
Pãezinhos (bread rolls) de Deu-la- tions to follow the circuit of
Deu used to be baked to honour elevated viewpoints and local
Deu-la-Deu Martins on her memory, but the tradition is villages from the hamlet of
Monção’s coat of arms no longer followed. São Miguel, 11 km (7 miles)
east of Ponte da Barca.
Stone granaries in Lindoso, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries
4 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês

Peneda-Gerês National Park, one of Portugal’s greatest
natural attractions, stretches from the Gerês Mountains in
the south to the Peneda range and the Spanish border in the
north. Established in 1971, it extends over about 720 sq km
(277 sq miles) of wild, dramatic scenery, with windswept
Melgaço Lamas
peaks and valleys of oak, pine and yew. It also hosts a rich •
de Mouro
variety of fauna, including rare wolves and eagles. The park’s
Castro
long-distance footpath is well signposted (in parts); six
•
Laboreiro
sections are limited to groups of between 10 and 15 people.
. Nossa Senhora da Peneda

Nossa
eda
Surrounded by massive rocks, this
elaborate sanctuary is a replica of Senhora da
Pen
Bom Jesus (see pp284–5). The site Peneda
J
•
da
is visited in early September by
ra
pilgrims from all over the region.
Ser
Mezio
•
Soajo
•
Arços de
Valdevez
Lindoso
Soajo a
Lim
The traditional village of

Soajo, surrounded by terraced
hillsides, is known for its
collection of espigueiros. •
Entre Ambos-os-Rios
The village’s local festival takes
place in the middle of August.
Alb uf
u f eira d e
V ila rinho d a s Furna
Fu rna s
J
KEY
•
1 The 13th-century castle Campo do

in the frontier village of Lindoso Gerés
has been renovated to house
0 kilometres 5
an art gallery. Braga
0 miles 2
2 Castro Laboreiro is best
known for the breed of sheepdog
to which it gives its name. The ruins
of a medieval castle can be seen in
the village.
3 Lamas de Mouro, at the
northern entrance to the park, Vilarinho das Furnas Braga
serves as an information centre Beautifully set in a
and offers accommodation. rocky landscape, the
4 Caldas do Gerês, known Vilarinho das Furnas
since Roman times for its spa, reservoir was formed
now serves as an information by the damming of
centre and base for excursions the River Homem.
from the centre of the park. There are some good
hikes along its shores.
MINHO  277
Road map C1. n Caldas do
Gerês: on main road (253 390
110); Lamas do Mouro: next to
•
Rodeiro camp site; Arcos de Valdevez: Rua
Professor Dr Mário Júlio Almeida
Costa (258 520 530). Information
on camp sites, hiking & pony trek-
king is available at these offices at
• Seara
Montalegre (see p262) and at
Ponte da Barca. Lindoso castle:
Pitões das Júnias Monastery Open daily. Closed public hols. &
Dating to 1147, the picturesque ruins of this Transport
monastery lie approximately 3 km (2 miles) south @ from Braga to Caldas do Gerês;
of the road leading into Pitões das Júnias village. from Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo &
Lindoso; from Melgaço to Castro
Inverneiras in Laboreiro & Lamas de Mouro.
Seara
Migration during
the summer from
these solidly built
winter houses to
brandas, stone
shelters high in •
the mountains, is Tourem

still practised in
some villages.
Pitões das
Júnias
J
•
Homem
Portela do Outeiro Montalegre
Homem Albufeira de •
. Roman Road
Paradela
Sections of the old Roman road
that ran from Braga to Astorga in
s
rê
Spain, can still be seen at points

Ge
along the Homem river valley.

do
Paradela
rra
Se
Caldas do Granary Designs

Gerés Cabril
•
The tomb-like architecture of espigueiros
(granaries) appears in several areas of
the park, especially in the villages of
do
va Lindoso and Soajo. Constructed
Cá
either of wood or granite, they are
raised on columns and slatted for
ventilation. The design keeps grain
and maize at the right humidity as
Key well as off the ground, out of reach
Road of hens and rodents. Topped with
an ornamental cross or pyramid, the
Long-distance footpath design of espigueiros has scarcely
National boundary changed since the 18th and
19th centuries. Granite espigueiro, Lindoso

6 Ponte de Lima
Road map C1. * 3,200. @
n Passeio 25 de Abril, Torre da
Cadeia Velha (258 240 208).
( every other Mon.
This attractive riverside town takes

its name from the ancient bridge
over the River Lima. During the
Middle Ages, the town played
a pivotal role in the defence of
the Minho against the Moors.
The Roman bridge has only
five of its original stone arches;
the rest were rebuilt or restored
in the 14th and 15th centuries.
The 15thcentury church of Santo Former dormitory of the Mosteiro de Santa Clara, Vila do Conde
António houses the Museu dos
Terceiros, a museum of sacred art. 8 Vila do Conde are parts of the imposing 5km
The Museu Rural has antique (3mile) aqueduct, built in
Road map C2. * 21,000. £ @
farming equipment, an authentic n Rua 25 de Abril 103 (252 248 473). 1705–14, with 999 arches.
regional kitchen and gardens. ( Fri. At the heart of the historic
Ponte de Lima’s remaining centre is Praça Vasco da
medieval fortifications include The small town of Vila do Gama, with an unusual pillory
the 15thcentury Palácio Conde enjoyed its boom in the shape of an arm with
dos Marqueses de Ponte years as a shipbuilding thrusting sword – a vivid
de Lima. centre in the Age of warning to potential wrong
The town’s market, a Discovery (see pp52–3); doers. Bordering the square
tradition dating back today it is a quiet by the pillory is the 16th
to 1125, takes place fishing port. By the century Igreja Matriz, notable
on the river’s wide river, in the historic for its wonderfully ornate
and sandy left bank. In centre, the main Manueline portico, attributed
midSeptember crowds attraction is the Mosteiro to João de Castilho.
gather in the town to de Santa Clara, founded The town is a centre for lace
celebrate the Feiras in 1318. The principal making (bone lace or rendas
Novas (new fairs), a dormitory building, de bilros). Visitors can buy
combined religious Stone carving dating from the 18th samples and see the skills
festival and of a musician, century, was used for at the Escola de Rendas
folkloric market. Museu dos Terceiros some time as a correc (lacemaking school). The same
tional institution for building also houses the Museu
E Museu dos Terceiros teenagers. The Gothic church de Rendas (lace museum).
Avenida 5 de Outubro. Tel 258 240 contains the tombs of the
220. Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–6pm nunnery’s founders, Dom E Escola de Rendas
Tue–Sun. Afonso Sanches (son of King Rua de Sāo Bento 70. Tel 252 248 470.
Dinis) and his wife Dona Teresa Open Tue–Fri. Closed public hols.
7 Viana do Castelo Martins. The entire building is

now closed for redevelopment. Environs
See pp280–81. By the Mosteiro de Santa Clara The town of Povoa de Varzim,
3 km (2 miles) north of Vila
do Conde, is a resort with
sandy beaches, amusements
and nightlife.
In the village of Rates, 10 km
(6 miles) northeast, the 13th
century church of São Pedro
de Rates boasts a portal sur
mounted by gracefully sculpted
statues of saints, and a rose
window. Its nearby counterpart
at Rio Mau, the church of São
Cristóvão de Rio Mau, was
finished in 1151. Above the
door is a bishop (possibly
Ponte de Lima’s Roman bridge, leading to the church of Santo António St Augustine) flanked by helpers.
MINHO  279
bridge that crosses over

The Legend of the Barcelos Cock the River Cávado. The privately
A Galician pilgrim, as he was leaving Barcelos en route to Santiago owned Solar dos Pinheiros is
de Compostela, was accused of stealing silver from a landowner, an attractive mansion on
and sentenced to death by hanging. As Rua Duques de Bragança, built
a final plea to save himself, the prisoner in 1448. The sculpted figure
requested a meeting with the judge, plucking his beard on the south
who was about to tuck into a meal of tower is known as Barbadão,
roast cockerel. The Galician vowed the “bearded one”. So incensed
that as proof of his innocence the was this Jew when his
cockerel would stand up on the plate daughter bore a child to
and crow.
a gentile (King João I) that
The judge pushed aside his meal and
he vowed never to shave
ignored the plea. But as the prisoner
was hanged, the cockerel stood up and again, hence his nickname.
crowed. The judge, realizing his mistake, A rich Gothic pillory stands
hurried to the gallows and found that the in front of the ruined Counts’
Galician had miraculously survived thanks Palace or Paço dos Condes,
to a loose knot. According to legend, the destroyed by the earthquake
Galician returned years later to carve of 1755. The ruins provide an
the Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo, now housed Traditional open-air setting for the Museu
in the Museu Arqueológico in Barcelos. Barcelos cock Arqueológico, which displays
stone crosses, sculpted blazons,
sarcophagi, and its famous
Anything from clothes to exhibit, the Cruzeiro do Senhor
livestock can be bought here. do Galo, a cross paying tribute
Pottery enthusiasts can browse to the Barcelos cock legend.
among bright designs including Next to the palace, the Igreja
pagan figurines and the famous Matriz is Romanesque with
clay cockerels. Gothic influences, and dates
North of the square stands from the 13th century. There
Nossa Senhora do Terço, are 18th-century azulejos inside
the 18th-century church of a as well as an impressive rose
former Benedictine nunnery. window. The nearby Museu de
In contrast to its plain exterior, Olaria illustrates the history of
the interior is beautifully deco- ceramics in the region.
rated with panels of azulejos
illustrating St Benedict’s life. E Museu Arqueológico
In the southwest corner of Paços dos Condes. Tel 253 809 600.
the square, a graceful cupola Open daily.
Azulejos of St Benedict’s miracle of the sickle, crowns the Igreja do Senhor E Museu de Olaria
Nossa Senhora do Terço da Cruz, built around 1705 Rua Cónego J Gaiolas. Tel 253 824 741.
on the site where two centuries Open Tue–Sun. & 7
9 Barcelos earlier João Pires, a cobbler,
had a miraculous vision
Road map C1. * 10,000. £ @
n Largo Dr José Novais 27 (253 811
of a cross etched into
882). ( Thu. the ground. The Festa das
Cruzes (festival of crosses),
A pleasant riverside town, the town’s most spectacu-
Barcelos is famed as the lar event, is held at the
country’s leading ceramics and beginning of May to cele-
crafts market and the source of brate the vision. During
the legendary cock that has the celebrations thousands
become Portugal’s national of flowers are laid on the
symbol. From its origins as a streets to welcome a
settlement in Roman times, the procession to the church,
town of Barcelos developed and events include magni-
into a flourishing agricultural ficent displays of local
centre and achieved political folk costumes, dancing
importance during the 15th and fireworks.
century as the seat of the First The other historic
Duke of Bragança. The town’s attractions in the town
star attraction is the Feira de are clustered together in
Barcelos, a huge weekly market a tranquil setting beside 16th-century pillory on terrace overlooking the
held on Campo da República. the 15th-century granite River Cávado at Barcelos
7 Street-by-Street: Viana do Castelo

Viana do castelo lies in a beautiful setting on the Lima The fountain, constructed
estuary. This 13th-century town gained prominence as a in 1553 by João Lopes the
fishing centre in the 1400s; later it provided ships and Elder, forms the focal point
of the square.
seafarers for the great maritime discoveries of the 16th
century (see pp52–3). From here João Velho set off to explore Casa dos Lunas
the Congo, and João Álvares Fagundes charted the rich was once the
fishing grounds of Newfoundland. Wealth derived from Railway and home of the
Luna family.
trade with Europe and Brazil funded the town’s many bus stations
opulent mansions built in Manueline, Renaissance and
Baroque styles. Today the main interest lies in the
winding streets and intimate squares of the city
centre, easily explored on foot.
Palacete Sá
Sotto Mayor
dates from the PRAÇA
Renaissance. DA
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Built in 1598, this unique
CA
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BR
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arcades supported by
A
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magnificent caryatids.
DA P
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dominate the head of Viana’s main ÁLIA T.
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square. Manueline motifs include the DA
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arms of João III.
RU
0 metres 50
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The Hospital Velho was

originally a pilgrims’ hospice. Key
It now houses the Porto e
Suggested route
Norte tourist office.
MINHO  281
Road Map C1. * 25,000. n Viana
Welcome Centre, Praça do Eixo
Atlântico (258 098 415). ( Fri. _
2nd Sun in May: Festa das Rosas; 20–
23 Aug: Romaria de Nossa Senhora
da Agonia. ∑ portoenorte.com
Transport
£ Largo da Estação.
Casa da Praça, a magnificent

Baroque mansion
Casa de João Velho The fountain in Praça da República, the centre of daily life in Viana
is a 15thcentury
house, said to have Exploring Viana do Castelo chapel of Nossa Senhora da
belonged to the Both a busy fishing port and Agonia houses a statue of Our
town’s most holiday resort, Viana is over Lady of Sorrows (agonia). The
RU famous looked by the peak of Monte chapel, with façade and altar
A
GA navigator. de Santa Luzia. The town is the designed by André Soares, draws
GO
CO capital of Minho folk culture, enormous crowds for the romaria
U
T
playing host to lively festivals of Nossa Senhora da Agonia, a
and supporting a thriving threeday festival held each year
IN
O handicrafts industry. in the month of August (see

H
p233). The statue is carried in pro

E Museu de Artes cession through the town amid
Decorativas much feasting and celebration.
Largo de São Domingos. Tel 258 809
305. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public Environs
hols. & free Sat & Sun. 7 In order to enjoy exceptional
Set in the 18thcentury views, take the zigzag road to
Palacete dos Barbosas Monte de Santa Luzia, 5 km
Maciéis, Viana’s Museu (3 miles) north of the town
T. Municipal has an centre. (A funicular runs
D
O R excellent collection yearround from the
S LÉ
C
IG
of rare ceramics, fur station.) The basilica,

O
niture, archaeological completed in 1926 and

S
O
IR
UE finds and paintings. modelled on the Sacré
EQ In one of the upstairs
S Coeur in Paris, is a pilgrim
DO rooms, walls are tiled age site with little aesthetic
V.
with animated alle appeal. The steep climb,
gorical depictions of however, is rewarded by the
the continents, while superb views from the top
the chapel is lined with of the dome. Behind the
tiles signed by church you can wander
18thcentury artist along woodland paths
Policarpo de Oliveira or visit the Pousada
Bernardes (see p30). Early 19th-century Monte de Santa Luzia
Among the exhibits are ceramic, Museu (see p392). From the
a 17thcentury Indo Municipal pousada, it is a short
Portuguese cabinet walk to the top of the
magnificently decorated hill, where there are traces of a
with inlaid ivory, and pieces Celtiberian settlement (citânia).
of Porto faïence from the The excellent beach of Praia
Massarelos district, embellished do Cabedelo, to the south of the
with fine brushwork. town, is accessible by road via the
. Igreja Matriz bridge or by a fiveminute ferry
The arch surrounding the west
R Nossa Senhora da Agonia crossing from the riverside dock
door of Viana’s 15thcentury,
fortresslike parish church is
Campo de Nossa Senhora da Agonia. on Avenida dos Combatentes da
Tel 258 824 067. Open daily. 7 Grande Guerra. To the north lies
adorned with Gothic reliefs of
the apostles. Northwest of the centre, the mid Vila Praia de Âncora, another
18th century Romanesque popular beach resort.
0 Braga
Churches, grand 18th-century houses and pretty gardens
provide the focus for the charm and interest of Braga’s centre,
once past the urban development on the city outskirts.
Known in Roman times as Bracara Augusta, Braga has a long
history as a religious and commercial centre. In the 12th
century, it became the seat of Portugal’s archbishops, and
the country’s religious capital. The city lost some influence
in the 19th century, but today continues as the ecclesiastical
capital of Portugal and main city of the Minho.
Not surprisingly, Braga hosts some of Portugal’s most The west façade of the Sé, with its
colourful religious festivals. Semana Santa (Holy Week) is 15th-century galilee, or porch
celebrated with dramatic, solemn processions, while the lively
festival of São João in June sees dancing, fairs and fireworks. Museu de Arte Sacra, which
contains a rich collection of
ecclesiastical treasures as well as
Exploring Braga statues, carvings and azulejo tiles.
The compact historic Several chapels can be seen
centre borders Praça da in the courtyard and cloister.
República, the central The Capela dos Reis houses
square. Within the square the tombs of the founders,
stands the 14th-century Henry of Burgundy and his
Torre de Menagem, all wife Dona Teresa, as well as
that remains of the city’s the preserved body of the
original fortifications. 14th-century archbishop
A short walk leads to Rua Dom Lourenço Vicente.
do Souto, a narrow From Rua de São João you
pedestrian street lined can admire a statue of Nossa
with elegant shops and Senhora do Leite (Our Lady of
cafés, including the Café the Milk), symbol of the city
Brasileira, furnished in The blue-tiled façade of the Palácio do Raio, also of Braga, sheltered under an
19th-century salon style. known as the Casa do Mexicano ornate Gothic canopy.
Towards the end of the
road stands the impressive Sé, Since then the building has E Antigo Paço Episcopal
the cathedral of Braga. Other seen many changes, including Praça Municipal. Closed to the public.
churches worth a visit include the addition of a graceful galilee Near the Sé is the former
the small, 16th-century (porch) in the late 15th century. archbishop’s palace. The façades
Capela dos Coimbras, and the Outstanding features include date from the 14th, 17th and
17th-century Baroque Santa the chapel to the right, just 18th centuries, but a major
Cruz. Many of the finest man- inside the west door, housing fire destroyed the interior in
sions in Braga also date from the ornate 15th-century tomb the 18th century. The palace is
the Baroque period, such as of the first-born son of João I now used as a private library
the Palácio do Raio and the (see pp50–51), Dom Afonso, who and archives. Beside it are
Câmara Municipal (the town died as a child. The cathedral the immaculate gardens of the
hall). Both buildings are also houses the Treasury or Jardim de Santa Bárbara.
attributed to the 18th-century
architect André Soares da Silva.
Just north of the city centre is
the town mercado (market),
where you can buy regional
produce and delicacies.
R Sé
Rua Dom Paio Mendes. Open daily.
Museu de Arte Sacra: Tel 253 263 317.
Open daily. &
Braga’s cathedral was begun in
the 11th century, when Henry
of Burgundy decided to build
on the site of an older church,
destroyed in the 6th century. The Jardim de Santa Bárbara by the walls of the Antigo Paço Episcopal
MINHO  283
P Palácio dos Biscainhos Environs VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Rua dos Biscainhos. Tel 253 204 650. The simple chapel of São
Open Tue–Sun. & Frutuoso de Montélios, 3.5 km Practical Information
To the west of the city centre (2 miles) northwest of Braga, is Road map C1. * 160,000.
is the Palácio dos Biscainhos. one of the few remaining n Avenida da Liberdade 1 (253
Built in the 16th century and examples of pre-Romanesque 262 550). ( Tue. _ Holy Week
modified over the centuries, architecture in Portugal. Built (week before Easter); 23–24 Jun:
this imposing aristocratic around the 7th century, it was Festa de São João.
mansion now houses the city’s destroyed by the Moors and Transport
Museu Etnográfico e Artístico rebuilt in the 11th century. West £ Largo da Estacão. @ Praça
(Ethnography and Arts of Braga, 4 km (2 miles) from da Galiza.
Museum), with fascinating the centre and on the road to
displays of foreign and Barcelos, is the former Benedictine
Portuguese furniture. An Mosteiro de Tibães. Dating back church of Santa Maria
unusual detail is the ribbed, to the 11th century, this magni- Madalena. Designed by André
paved ground floor, which was ficent architectural complex Soares da Silva in 1750, it is
designed to allow carriages with its gardens and cloisters known for its ornate exterior,
inside the building to deposit was rebuilt in the 19th century. perhaps the country’s finest
guests and drive on to the At Falperra, 6 km (4 miles) expression of the Rococo.
stables beyond. southeast of Braga, stands the The sanctuary at Sameiro,
6 km (4 miles) from Braga, is
second only to Fátima (see p190)
in the Marian geography of
Portugal. It was built in 1863 to
honour the dogma of the
Immaculate Conception.
R São Frutuoso de Montélios

Avenida São Frutuoso. Tel 253 622
576. Open Tue–Sun.
E Mosteiro de Tibães
Rua do Mosteiro 59. Tel 253 622 670.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
1 May, 25 Dec. & to museum (free
Interior of the old coach stable at the Palácio dos Biscainhos 1st Sun of month). 7
Braga City Centre

A V.
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Bus Station
1 Mercado
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São Frutuoso de Montélios PRAÇA RÉ
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8 Capela dos Coimbras Igreja do CONDE DE

Pópulo AGROLONGO
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9 Santa Cruz PRAÇA C. TORRES

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OUTO AV E N I D A C E N
Train Station T R A L Sameiro
Capela dos
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350 m (380 yards)

AV E N
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PAULO
GUIMARÃES
TE L
Palácio
do Raio

q Bom Jesus do Monte

On a forested slope east of Braga stands Portugal’s most
spectacular religious sanctuary. In 1722 the Archbishop of Braga
devised the giant Baroque Escadaria (stairway) of Bom Jesus as the
approach to a small existing shrine. The stairway and the church of
Bom Jesus were completed by Carlos Amarante in 1811. The lower
section features a steep Sacred Way with chapels showing the 14
Stations of the Cross, the scenes leading up to Christ’s crucifixion.
The Escadório dos Cinco Sentidos, in the middle section, depicts
the five senses with ingenious wall-fountains and statues of biblical,
mythological and symbolic figures. This is followed by the similarly
allegorical Staircase of the Three Virtues. . Escadórios
The staircase is built of
At the summit, an esplanade provides superb views and access to granite accentuated by
the church. Close by are several hotels, a café and a boating lake whitewashed walls. The
hidden among the trees. Both a pilgrimage site and tourist attraction, steps represent an upward
the sanctuary attracts large festive crowds at weekends. spiritual journey.
Entrance Portico
At the foot of the giant stairway stands a
portico bearing the coat of arms of Dom
Rodrigo de Moura Teles, the archbishop
who commissioned the work.
KEY
1 Chapel of Darkness
2 Chapel of the Kiss of Judas
3 Chapel of the Last Supper
4 Chapel of Christ’s Agony
in the Garden
5 Chapel of the Flagellation
6 Chapel of the Road to Calvary
7 Chapel of Jesus before Pilate
8 Chapel of the Crucifixion

9 The Hotel do Elevador (see . Funicular Railway
p392) stands near the top of The funicular (elevador) dates back
the funicular. to 1882. Hydraulically operated,
it makes the ascent to the
0 Hotel do Parque terrace beside the church
q The church of Bom Jesus was in three minutes.
built on the site of a 15th-century
sanctuary. In front of it stand eight
statues of people who condemned
Christ, including Herod and Pilate.
w Pelican fountain
e On the Staircase of the Five
Senses are five fountains, each
representing a bodily sense: sight,
hearing, smell, taste and touch.
r Statues, symbols and
inscriptions elaborate on the
theme of the senses.
t Chapel of Simon the Cyrenian
y Chapel of the Crown of Thorns
MINHO  285
Chapel of the Descent

from the Cross
Each chapel has a tableau of life-
size terracotta figures in a scene
Road map C1. 5 km (3 miles)
from Christ’s last journey.
E of Braga. Tel 253 676 636.
Open daily. - 0 5 daily.
Transport
@ v funicular to the top.
0 metres 25 Staircase of the Three Virtues

0 yards 25
The final stretch of staircase represents
the gaining of Faith, Hope and Charity,
symbolized by fountains and various
allegorical figures.
Escadaria
Fountain of the Five

Wounds of Christ
The fountains positioned at
various points on the long
ascent symbolize the water
of life and purification of
the body and spirit. In the
fountain at the foot of the
Staircase of the Five Senses,
water spills from the five
bezants on the Portuguese
coat of arms, a symbolic
reference to Christ’s wounds.
w Guimarães some outstanding religious art,

azulejos and ceramics, all from
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the town of Guimarães is local churches.
celebrated as the birthplace of the nation. When Afonso The star exhibits, donated to
Henriques proclaimed himself king of Portugal in 1139 (see the church by João I, are his
tunic worn at the battle of
pp46–7), he chose Guimarães as his capital, and the distinctive Aljubarrota in 1385 (see p189),
outline of its proud castle appears on the Portuguese coat of and a 14thcentury silver altar
arms. In the well-preserved city centre, the narrow streets of piece, comprising a triptych of
the medieval quarter are ideal for exploration on foot. The the Visitation, Annunciation and
cobbled Rua de Santa Maria, lined with old town houses Nativity, reportedly taken from
the defeated Spanish king. The
embellished with ornate statuary, leads up from the main
Santa Clara room contains gilt
square, the Largo da Oliveira, past the Paço dos Duques to carving, the work of local
the castle. To feel the hustle and bustle of the Middle Ages, craftsmen, taken from the
visit the town in the first week of August for the Festas former convent of Santa Clara,
Gualterianas, a festival of medieval art and costume. now the town hall.
+ Castelo de Guimarães his travels through Europe. The

Rua Conde Dom Henrique. Tel 253 412 palace fell into disuse when the
273. Open 10am–6pm daily. Bragança family moved to Vila
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & Viçosa (see pp304–5). In 1933,
The castle’s huge square keep, under Salazar’s dictatorship (see
encircled by eight crenellated pp60–61), it was renovated as an
towers, dominates the skyline. official presidential residence.
First built to deter attacks by On view in a small museum
Moors and Normans in the inside the palace, are lavish dis
10th century, it was extended plays of Persian rugs, Flemish
by Henry of Burgundy two tapestries and paintings, such as Largo da Oliveira, centre of old Guimarães
centuries later and, according to the impressive O Cordeiro Pascal
tradition, was the birthplace of (Paschal Lamb) by Josefa de R Nossa Senhora da Oliveira
Portugal’s first king, Afonso Óbidos (see p55). Paying unusual Largo da Oliveira. Tel 253 416 144.
Henriques. The font where he homage to the nation’s Open daily.
was reputedly baptized is kept maritime exploits, the chestnut This former monastery lies
in the tiny Romanesque chapel ceiling in the banqueting hall on the square’s east side.
of São Miguel, situated at the imitates the upturned hull of a Founded by Afonso Henriques,
western end of the castle. Portuguese caravel. the church was restored by
João I in gratitude to Our Lady
P Paço dos Duques E Museu de Alberto of the Olive Tree for his victory
Rua Conde Dom Henrique. Tel 253 Sampaio at Aljubarrota (see p189). The
412 273. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, Rua Alfredo Guimarães. Tel 253 423 Manueline tower is from 1515.
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 910. Open 10am–6pm Tue –Sun. In front of it is the Padrão do
Constructed in the 15th century Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & Salado, a 14thcentury Gothic
by Dom Afonso (first Duke of This museum, housed in the shrine housing a cross. It
Bragança), the Burgundian style beautiful Romanesque cloister commemorates the legend of
of the Paço dos Duques reflects and adjoining rooms of Nossa how the church and square
Dom Afonso’s taste acquired on Senhora da Oliveira, displays acquired their name. An olive
tree was transplanted here to
supply the altar lamp with oil,
but it withered. In 1342, the
merchant Pedro Esteves placed
the cross on it, whereupon the
tree flourished. The tree that
stands in the square today
dates only from 1985.
E Museu Martins Sarmento

Rua Paio Galvão. Tel 253 415 969.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. &
Named after the archaeologist
who excavated major Iron Age
sites in the north, notably
The massive battlements surrounding the keep of Castelo de São Miguel Citânia de Briteiros, the museum
MINHO  287
Road map C1. * 60,000. n
Praça de Santiago (253 421 221).
( Fri. _ 1st weekend in Aug:
Festas Gualterianas.
∑ guimaraesturismo.com
Transport
£ Avenida Dom João IV. @
Alameda Mariano Felgueiras.
is housed in the Gothic cloister

of the 14thcentury convent of
São Domingos. Specializing in
finds from these sites, some Reconstructed huts at the Iron Age site of Citânia de Briteiros
dating to the Stone Age, the
museum contains a wealth of e Citânia de represent Celtic warriors, are
archaeological, ethnological Briteiros found in various parts of the
and numismatic exhibits. These Terras de Basto where they
include a rare pair of Lusitanian Road map C1. 15 km (9 miles) N of served as territorial markers.
granite warriors, a bronze votive Guimarães, off N101. Tel 253 478 952. In the main town, Cabeceiras
@ from Guimarães & Braga. Open
oxcart, and the Pedras Formosas, de Basto, the prime attraction is
Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar:
two stone slabs inscribed with the Baroque Mosteiro de Refojos,
9am–5pm daily. &
human figures. The most striking with its splendid dome 33 m
exhibit is the Colossus of Pedralva, This Iron Age settlement (108 ft) high, surrounded by
a stone figure that stands 3 m is one of Portugal’s most statues of the apostles, and
(10 ft) tall. impressive archaeological topped by a statue of the
sites. Excavated by archangel Michael.
R São Francisco Martins Sarmento (1833– The town also owns the
Largo de São Francisco. Tel 253 439 850. 99), who devoted his life best of the basto statues,
Open Tue–Sun. to the study of Iron Age albeit with a French head;
Built in 1400 in Gothic style, sites, are the foundations it was changed by troops
the elegant church of São Fran of 150 stone dwellings, a as a joke during the
cisco was reconstructed in the number of which have Napoleonic Wars.
18th century. The interior of since been reconstructed.
the church boasts a chancel From about the Environs
covered in magnificent 18th 4th century BC to The fine hiking country of
century azulejos with scenes the 4th century AD, the Terras de Basto,
from the life of St Antony. the site was inhab carpeted with flowers
ited by Celtiberians, in spring, has other
Environs but was most prob villages worth visiting.
The former monastery of ably under Roman rule Mondim de Basto,
Santa Marinha da Costa is one from c.20 BC. A overlooking the River
of Portugal’s top pousadas (see network of paths leads The basto statue of Tâmega some 25 km
p392). It stands 5 km (3 miles) visitors past paved Cabeceiras de Basto (15 miles) south of
southeast of Guimarães, and streets, subterranean Cabeceiras, is a conven
was founded in 1154. The cisterns, sewers and water ient base for climbing Monte
gardens and chapel are open supply ducts. The Museu Martins Farinha which, at 966 m
to the public. Sarmento in Guimarães displays (3,169 ft) is the highest peak
various excavated artifacts. in the region. Then climb the
steps to the top of the church
of Nossa Senhora da Graça on
r Cabeceiras de the summit, for splendid views.
Basto Over the Tãmega, the village
Road map D1. * 17,000. @ n Praça
of Celorico de Basto has a small
da República (253 669 100). ( Mon. castle and several manor houses
in the surrounding area. Most
The Terras de Basto, once a region are private but some, such as
of refuge from Moorish invasion, the Casa do Campo (see p392),
lies east of Guimarães among are part of the Turismo de
Renaissance stone fountain at Santa Marinha mountains and forests. Statues Habitação scheme (see p382)
da Costa monastery known as bastos, believed to and take in guests.
Southern
Portugal
Introducing Southern
Portugal 290–295
Alentejo 296–319
Algarve 320–337
290  SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Southern Portugal at a Glance

South of the Tagus the vast wheatfields and rolling plains of the
Alentejo stretch almost uninterrupted to the horizon. There is a rich
legacy of early civilization here, dating back to prehistory, but visitors
to Beja and even the World Heritage cities of Évora and Elvas will
usually be untroubled by mass tourism – until reaching the southern
coast. Many visitors know nothing of Portugal except the tourist play Ponte
de Sor
ground of the Algarve, yet it is least typical of the country. The sandy
beaches are a yearround attraction but the historic town centres
such as Faro, and the quieter hinterland, are well worth exploring.
Mora
Évora, the Alentejo’s

historic university city, has
Arraiolos
monuments dating back to
the Roman era. Gleaming
white arcades and balconies Montemor-
of finely wrought ironwork o-Novo Évora
are reminders that for over
450 years, until 1165, Évora
was inhabited by the Moors
(see pp308–11).
Viana do
Alentejo
Beja flourished Alvito

under the Moors Grândola ALENTEJO
and its museum is (See pp296–319)
housed in a former
convent resplendent Santiago Beja
with Hispano-Arab do Cacém
tiles, such as these Sines
in the chapter-
house (see p317).
Vila Nova Castro

de Milfontes Verde
Ourique
Zambujeira Santa-Clara-
do Mar a-Velha
Almodôvar
Monchique Cachopo
ALGARVE
Aljezur (See pp320–337) Alte
São Bras
Silves de Alportel
Portimão
Vila do Lagoa
Bispo Loulé
Lagos
Albufeira Estoi
Lagos, principal town of the western Faro
Sagres
Algarve, is flanked by inviting cove
beaches, such as Praia de Dona Ana,
which make it easy to understand why Faro (see pp332–4)
sunseekers flock here (see pp326–7).
The crystal-clear waters off Praia dos Três Castelos, near Portimão
INTRODUCING SOUTHERN PORTUGAL  291
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Castelo
de Vide
Marvão
Crato
Portalegre
Alter do
Chão
Campo Maior Marvão, within a stone’s throw of the Spanish border,

sits like a miniature fortress high in the Serra de São
Sousel Mamede. The granite walls which protect the tiny town
merge imperceptibly with the rock and have kept
Elvas Marvão safe through centuries of dispute (see p300).
Estremoz
Évora Vila Viçosa

Monte
Alandroal
Elvas has some of the
best-preserved fortifi-
Redondo cations in Europe (see
p303). At the centre of
the walled old town lies
Monsaraz the Praça da República,
where Elvas’s former
Reguengos cathedral looks out over
de Monsaraz
the square’s striking
geometric mosaics.
Vidiguera
Moura
Vila Viçosa was chosen in

the 15th century as the seat
Serpa
of the dukes of Bragança.
Here they built their Paço
Ducal (see pp304–5), in front
of which stands a bronze
equestrian statue of the 8th
Duke, who became King
Mértola João IV in 1640.
Alcoutim
Faro, the gateway to the

Algarve thanks to its
Odeleite international airport, is
nevertheless bypassed
Vila Real by many visitors. Much
de S. Antonio
was destroyed by the
Cacela 1755 earthquake, but the
Tavira Velha town still has a pleasant
historic centre beside the
harbour. In spring the
streets and squares
are scented with the
sweetness of orange
blossom (see pp332–4).
The Beaches of the Algarve

Facing North Africa to the south, and exposed to the
force of the Atlantic in the west, the Algarve has a
varied coastline. The Barlavento (windward side)
includes the west coast and the south coast almost as
far as Faro. Beaches around the promontory of Sagres
are backed by cliffs and on the west coast many
beaches are deserted. The sea here is colder and
rougher than on the south coast, with dangerous
currents. Between Sagres and Lagos is the start of
a series of beautiful sandy coves, punctuated with
grottoes, overlooked by tightly packed holiday resorts.
East of Faro, the Sotavento (leeward side) has long,
sandy beaches washed by warmer, calmer water.
1 Arrifana @ 0 - D
The gracefully curving beach of
0 kilometres 10 Arrifana is one of the most stunning
on the west coast. Sheltered below
0 miles 10
high cliffs, the approach by road offers
Praia de dramatic views (see p324).
Monte Clérigo
Aljezur
Praia de
Arrifana
Alfambras
68
N2
N1
Bordeira
20
A22 IC4
Carrapateira
Bensafrim
Algoz
Pedralva Portimão
Odiáxere Lagoa
Alvor Ferreiras
68
Praia de Ferragudo Alcantarilha

N2
Lagos N125
Castelejo N125
Budens Albufeira
Vila do Luz
Bispo Figueira Burgau
2 Castelejo - 
This long, deserted beach of soft
Sagres sand can only be reached via a dirt
road by bicycle, car or jeep. Its
remote location, however, ensures 3 Beliche - D
peace and quiet (see p325). Despite being at the “world’s
end”, Beliche is sheltered by Cabo
de São Vicente. The sandy beach
is backed by fascinating caves
and rock formations (see p326).
4 Martinhal
0
Martinhal is a wide, sheltered
expanse of sand east of Sagres.
The area is popular for water
sports of all kinds, and the beach
boasts an aquatic school with
parasailing, water-skiing and
windsurfing (see p326).

5 Dona Ana
q Ilha de Tavira
@0L
-L
A tiny cove on the way to In summer, boats go from
Ponta da Piedade, Dona Quatro Águas to the sandy
Ana is one of the prettiest Ilha de Tavira. The beach
beaches in the Algarve, facing the coast has calm
although crowded during water, whereas the beaches
the summer. A boat trip on the ocean side, that run
to see nearby caves and the length of the island,
grottoes is highly recom offer good swimming and
mended (see p327). windsurfing (see p336).
6 Meia Praia
@-0LD 8 Carvoeiro
A vast expanse of sand stretching for @m0-
4 km (2 miles), the sheltered Meia Carvoeiro is a fishing
Praia is the longest beach in the village with a diminutive
Algarve. Easily reached by road, there cove. The whole area is
is also a boat trip from Lagos during great for cove beaches,
the summer months (see p327). and a boat trip or a walk
along the cliff will take
7 Praia da Rocha @ 0 L D  you to spectacular sandy
Framed by ochre cliffs and lapped by beaches with excellent
calm water, this spacious beach is swimming and
justifiably famous – and crowded in snorkelling.
high season. Water sports can be
practised here in a gentler sea than
the extreme southwest and visitors
Azinhal
are well catered for (see p328).
IC2
7
Castro Marim
Vila Real de
2 Santo António
A2
IP1 5
N12
N270 Conceição
Cacela
Loulé Velha
Boliqueime Santo Tavira
IP1 Pereiro
A2
2
Santa Bárbara Estêvão
de Nexe
Estói Luz
Vilamoura Almancil
w Monte Gordo
N2
Moncarapacho
Quarteira São João da Pechão Ilha de @0-L
Venda Fuseta Tavira The warm water and balmy climate,
Quinta do Lago Olhão
combined with vast stretches of clean
Ilha de
Armona sand backed by pine woods, make
Faro
Monte Gordo a very popular resort.
Praia de Ilha de
Faro Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
9 Senhora da Rocha
@0-L
Senhora da Rocha,
named after a small
chapel on its eastern
promontory, is actually
three small, sheltered 0 São Rafael
beaches. Typical of @m0-L
this part of the coast, The small, popular beach of São Rafael
these halfmoons of offers soft sand and shallow water, with
sand tucked below spectacular caves and eroded rock for
eroded yellow cliffs mations to explore. For those without
are reached via a car, it is a steep walk down from the
steep steps. bus stop on the main road (see p329).
The Flavours of Southern Portugal

Alentejan cuisine is one of the country’s most loved. The
landscape is a powerful source of culinary inspiration, with its
abundant vineyards, silvery olive groves and its wide oaks that
provide acorns for pigs, giving an intense flavour to local pork
meat. The Portuguese trinity of olive oil, garlic and coriander is
at its holiest here, and some of the country’s tastiest fish and
seafood is caught off the region’s rocky western coast. The
Algarve boasts a wide variety of fish, a wealth of fruit and
vegetables, the cataplana (a unique copper pan), and the
culinary cosmopolitanism that comes with tourism. Fresh figs
begins to go stale it still has their flavour. Shepherds also

uses. Slices are placed in a herd Ibérico pigs, or porcos
broth of hot water, olive oil, pretos as they are often called.
garlic and coriander, mashed These are fattened up by
and topped with a poached foraging for acorns, which
egg to make açorda. gives the meat and fat a
The ewe’s milk cheeses of delicious intensity of flavour to
Serpa, Évora and Nisa are eaten make most other pork seem
when they are freshly made, insipid in comparison.
soft and even runny, or after Olives are a staple of the
prolonged maturing, which Alentejo, and the area around
hardens them and sharpens Moura is famous for its olive oil.
Oysters Clams Crab Dourada (bream) Giant prawns
Mussels
Algarve chef cooking with a cataplana pan
Squid
The Alentejo
For a region whose history and
identity is bound up with a poor
and landless peasantry, the
Alentejo has a surprisingly rich
culinary heritage. Dishes are
varied and use basic ingredients Red mullet
imaginatively, leaving little to
waste. One example is Alentejan
bread, that famously keeps for a
long time. Even when at last it Harvest of fish and seafood from the southern Portuguese coastline

It might seem strange that one of the great
dishes of the Alentejo is a fish soup, but
sopa de cação masterfully transforms the
humble dogfish into a velvety soup with
a sweet-and-sour streak. Ensopado is a
quintessentially Alentejan type of dish,
a sort of soupy stew, often served with a
slice of bread at the bottom of the bowl.
The lamb version, ensopado de borrego, is
Olives the most popular. Porco preto is prepared
in any number of ways, from the classic pézinhos
de coentrada (pig’s trotters with coriander), to lombo de porco em
presunto (tenderloin wrapped in cured ham). The Algarvian
Lombo de porco em presunto
cataplana pan is often used to cook a rich fish and seafood stew,
is often served with baby
cataplana de peixe e mariscos. Figs feature in many of the region’s
turnips. The ham keeps the
desserts, including the fudge-like morgado de figo.
tenderloin moist.
Inland from its popular beaches,

the region is a fertile garden
for almost every kind of vege-
table – peppers and beefsteak
tomatoes are particularly
good – and a large variety
of fruits including citrus, figs
and melons. The serras,
mostly low mountain ranges
forming a natural border
with the Alentejo, provide
traditional cheeses, herbs,
honey and sweets.
Fresh char-grilled sardines and giant prawns
REGIONAL WINES
Small, hot chillies known as own cooking utensil and
piri-piri make their way into technique as well as a link to The Alentejo is Portugal’s
many local dishes and pickles, its Arabic past. Though many favourite wine region, and
restaurants use it like any other accounts for about one-third of
while large, sweet red peppers
the country’s vineyards. Parts of
are char-roasted and peeled to pan, the cataplana is above all
it date back to Roman times. It
add to salads, or mashed into a a steaming device, particularly
produces wines with styles
paste with salt to be preserved suited to the coast’s many ranging from traditional,
as massa de pimentão. delicious edible shells, such as farmyard-scented light reds to
The coast yields delicacies such ameijoas and conquilhas (types deep, berry-flavoured and oaked
as sargo (white bream) and of cockle) and ostras (oysters). ones, often made from grapes
perceves, the odd-looking goose Tuna is rarer now than it was, that are familiar to the region,
barnacle, which is pried off steep but the range at any fish including Syrah and the Douro
cliffsides at low tide. Deep-fried market remains vast. variety Touriga Nacional. The leap
dried eel is popular, and tastes in quality that the Alentejo has
similar to pork crackling. performed over the last couple
of decades is perhaps most
noticeable in the whites, which
The Algarve are strikingly fresh and fruity for
Portugal’s tourist hub is often a region of extreme heat. The
Algarve has begun a process of
condescendingly regarded as
renewal and modernization as
a culinary cliché of grilled
well, with several individual
sardines, vinegary salads,
producers leading the way, and
grilled chicken and chips, but some co-operatives are now
that misses a few crucial points. making very palatable reds. Wines
In the cataplana, a wok-shaped tend to be soft and aromatic with
copper pan with a hinged, Oranges ripening in a citrus grove a high alcohol content.
domed lid, the region has its in the Algarve
Ensopado de Borrego uses Cataplana is named for the Morgado de Figo is a rich,
cheap cuts of lamb marinated pan. Shellfish, squid, prawns and sticky cake of dried figs,
with cumin and cloves and fish are steamed with white almonds, sugar, chocolate,
simmered until very tender. wine, garlic and herbs. cinnamon and aniseed.
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL  297
ALENTEJO
The sun-baked Alentejo occupies nearly one-third of
Portugal, stretching all the way from the Tagus south to
the Algarve. Its vast rolling plains, golden with wheat or
silver with olive trees, its whitewashed villages, megaliths
and castles, and irresistible Wine Route, are the Alentejo’s great
attractions for visitors.
Stone circles, dolmens and other relics flourishing. Since 1986, Portugal’s
of Stone Age life pepper the Alentejan plain, membership of the European Union has
particularly around Évora, a historical gem increased the rate of investment and
of a city at the region’s geographical centre. modernization, although the region is still
Évora, like Beja, Elvas, Alter do Chão and sparsely populated, supporting only ten
other towns, was founded by the Romans, per cent of the population. Land tenure
who valued this land beyond the Tagus – has always been a concern here, and
além Tejo – for its wheatfields. Introducing communism has a strong appeal – the
irrigation systems to overcome the soil’s Alentejans were solid supporters of
aridity, they established enormous farms the 1974 revolution (see p61).
to grow grain for the empire. Worked by Many towns and villages, especially
peasant farmers, these huge estates, or in the south, carry echoes of the long
latifúndios, still exist. Moorish occupation in their cube-like
Grain apart, the vast plains yield cork white houses, while to the north and east
from the bark of cork oaks and olives – the plains give way to a rocky terrain of
Elvas is prized for these as well as its fortified villages and scrubland grazed
candied greengages. Vineyards across the by flocks of sheep. Portuguese from other
region have long produced powerful regions mock the amiable alentejanos for
wines (see pp32–3), and some areas are their slow ways, but they are widely
classified at the Denominação de Origem admired for their singing, handicrafts,
Controlada (DOC) level. Wine tourism is gastronomy and wines.
Houses with red-tiled roofs in the historic town of Castelo de Vide (see p301)
Marvão castle, dating from the 13th century
Exploring the Alentejo

The ancient city of Évora, with its exceptional
historic centre and location in the heart of
the Alentejo, is an obvious starting point for
exploring this varied and beautiful region.
To the northeast lie the white towns of
Estremoz and Vila Viçosa, where local marble
has been used in the construction of some
Noitinhas
fabulous façades, and Alter do Chão, home of Novas
Portugal’s royal horse, the Alter Real. Nearer the
Spanish frontier, towns and villages still shelter
The cromlech of Almendres, one of many prehistoric
within massive fortifications, while travelling sites around Évora Montargil
south the legacy of the Moors becomes ever
more apparent; Beja and Mértola, especially,
are full of Moorish history.
On the west coast there are some lovely Mora
beaches, with many stretches still relatively

untouched by tourism.
0 kilometres 25 Lavre
0 miles 10
Sights at a Glance Vendas
Novas MONTEMOR-
1 Serra de São Mamede y Évora pp308–11 O-NOVO
2 Marvão i Monsaraz
3 Portalegre o Viana do Alentejo
4 Castelo de Vide p Vidigueira Lisboa
Santiago
5 Crato a Moura do Escoural
6 Alter do Chão s Serpa
São
7 Campo Maior d Beja Cristóvão
8 Elvas f Santiago do Cacém
9 Vila Viçosa pp304–5 g Sines Alcáçovas
Alcácer do Sal
0 Alandroal h Vila Nova de Milfontes
q Redondo j Zambujeira do Mar Rib
eir Torrão
w Estremoz k Mértola a
de
e Évoramonte SETÚBAL O
di
Tours
ve
r Arraiolos Grândola
la
s
t Montemor-o-Novo u Megaliths Tour Melides Odivelas

a
Lagoa de
dol
Santo André Vila Nova de Ferreira do

an
Santo Andre Azinheira Alentejo

Gr
dos Barros
SANTIAGO
de
DO CACÉM
Abela
r ra
SINES
Se
Ri
São
oS
Domingos Aljustrel
ado
Porto
Covo Messejana
Cercal
VILA NOVA
DE MILFONTES
Santa Luzia
São Luís
Rio
Almograve
Mi
Ourique
ra
ZAMBUJEIRA Odemira
DO MAR Gomes
Aires
São Teotónio Santa Clara-
a-Velha
The fertile farmland and orchards of the northern Alentejo, seen Lagos
from Estremoz Albufeira

ALENTEJO  299
Castelo
Branco Ri
be Getting Around
ira Montalvão
Abrantes
de Exploration by road is a more
N
ejo feasible option than by rail,
isa
oT Nisa
although trains run between the
Ri CASTELO
Gavião DE VIDE major towns of Évora, Beja and
Alpalhao MARVÃO some of the smaller centres. The
SE bus network links most towns and
Cáceres villages, but time and patience
RR
Flor da Rosa Fortios
A
are needed to cope with the
CRATO
DE
Ponte de Sor PORTALEGRE
logistics. For motorists, the tolled
SÃ
da M A6 (E90) provides fast access from
O
ALTER Urra A
r
Se
Lisbon right through the Alentejo

So
Vila Formosa M
DO CHÃO
da
ED
de
E to the Spanish border, while

a
P O R TA L E G R E
ra
eir
bei
Arronches the tolled IP2 (E802) bisects the

ib
R
Ri
Vaiamonte region from north to south.

Fronteira Monforte Links on to minor roads are
Avis
CAMPO generally well marked and roads
Santa Eulália MAIOR are mainly in good condition.
Sousel Veiros Vila Badajoz
Casa Branca Fernando
Pavia
Ribeira ELVAS
de Ter
a ESTREMOZ
Vimiero
na
VILA VIÇOSA ia
ÉVORAMONTE Ser ad
ra
de Pardais o Gu
ARRAIOLOS Oss
a Ri
ALANDROAL
São Miguel
de Machede
REDONDO
ÉVORA
São Matias Terena
ÉVORA
MEGALITHS Montoito
Serpa’s Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe, startlingly
TOUR São
Manços MONSARAZ white in the hot sun
Reguengos
de Monsaraz Mourão
VIANA DO
ALENTEJO
Oriola
Portel Amieira Barragem Granja
d’Alqueva Key
Alvito
Póvoa Amareleja Motorway
VIDIGUEIRA Alqueva
Major road
Cuba Barrancos Minor road
MOURA
Pedrógão Sáfara Scenic route
Se
Beringel rr
a Major railway
da Sobral da Adiça
Baleizão Ad Minor railway
BEJA Pias iç
a
National border
Santa SERPA
a
Regional border
adian
Vitória
Trindade Vila Nova
de São Bento
Albernoa Santa Iria
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Ribeira
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BEJA
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A sea of wheat surrounding a farmhouse near Moura
1 Serra de São
Mamede
Road map D4. @ to Portalegre.
n Portalegre.
The diverse geology and

capricious climate of this remote
range, caught between the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean,
encourage a fascinating range
of flora and fauna. In 1989,
320 sq km (120 sq miles) of the
Serra were designated a Nature
Park classified by the EUROPARC
Federation, and griffon vultures
and Bonelli’s eagles soar over-
head. Red deer, wild boar and Sheep in the summer pastures of the Serra de São Mamede
the cat-like genet live among
the sweet chestnut trees and 2 Marvão with its 17th-century iron balcony,
holm oaks, and streams attract Road map D4. * 185. £ @
and a Baroque fountain, up
otters and amphibians, such n Largo da Silveirinha (245 909 131). towards the castle.
as the Iberian midwife toad. ( Thu. Built by King Dinis in about
The reserve is also home to one 1299, the castle dominates the
of the largest colonies of bats This serene medieval hamlet is village. Its walls enclose two
in Europe. dramatically set at 862 m (2,828 ft) cisterns and a keep. The castle
The Serra’s apparent emptiness on a spectacular escarpment offers spectacular views south
is deceptive: megaliths suggest facing Spain. Its 13th- century and west towards the Serra
that it was settled in prehistoric walls and 17th-century buttres- de São Mamede and east to
times, and in the south of the ses blend seamlessly into the the Spanish frontier.
reserve, rock paintings survive in granite of the mountains, making The Museu Municipal, in the
the Serra de Cavaleiros and it an impregnable stronghold. former church of Santa Maria,
Serra de Louções. Below Marvão The Romans, who called the retains the main altar, and has an
is the Roman town of Ammaia outcrop Herminius Minor, were exhibition of traditional remedies
(São Salvador de Aramenha), followed by the Moors (the and local archaeological finds
and the Roman network of name may have come from from Palaeolithic to Roman times.
roads still winds among the Marvan, a Moorish leader)
trim white villages, offering whom the Christians evicted E Museu Municipal
grand views at every curve. with difficulty only in 1166. Largo de Santa Maria. Tel 245 909 132.
From Portalegre, the road The walls completely enclose Open Tue–Sun. Closed 25 Dec. &
climbs for 15 km (9 miles) to the the little collection of white-
Pico de São Mamede at 1,025 m washed houses, a pousada
(3,363 ft). A minor road leads (see p393) and the 15th-century 3 Portalegre
south to Alegrete, a fortified Igreja Matriz. Rua do Espírito
Road map D4. * 12,000. £ @
village crowned by its ruined Santo leads past the former n Rua Guilherme Gomes Fernandes
14th-century castle. governor’s house (now a bank) 22 (245 307 445). ( Wed & Sat (food);
2nd Wed of month (clothes).
∑ visitalentejo.com
Strategically positioned on a
low plateau of the Serra de São
Mamede, Portalegre is of Roman
origin. At the end of the 13th cen-
tury, King Dinis (see pp48–9) built
a castle on the city’s highest point.
Textile, tapestry and silk
industries brought prosperity
in the 16th and 17th centuries,
reflected in the Renaissance and
Baroque mansions found along
Rua 19 de Junho, the main street
of the old town. Close to Praça
da República is the only tapestry
factory still in use, the Manufactura
Looking out over the plain from the heights of Marvão’s castle de Tapeçaria de Portalegre.
ALENTEJO  301
Uphill lies the cathedral, or Sé. 4 Castelo de Vide

Built in 1556, it acquired its Road map D4. * 3,000. £ @
Baroque façade and twin n Praça Dom Pedro V (245 908 227).
pinnacles in the 18th century. ( Fri (clothes).
The late Renaissance interior
has a sacristy lined with striking Sprawled on a green slope of the
azulejo panels. Dating from the Serra de São Mamede, this pretty
first years of the 17th century, spa town enjoyed by the Romans
these depict scenes from the life has worn well. It is fringed by
of the Virgin Mary and the flight modern development but the
of the Holy Family into Egypt. lower town, around Praça Dom
The Museu da Tapeçaria de Pedro V, retains its Baroque
Portalegre displays contemporary church of Santa Maria, the 18th-
tapestries and shows the methods, century town hall and pillory, and
materials and tools used to handsome mansions from the
create them. same era. In the Largo Frederico
The home of the Portuguese Laranjo is one of several sources Red-tiled roofs of Castelo de Vide
poet and dramatist José of the town’s curative waters:
Régio (1901–69) is near the the Fonte da Vila, a carved 5 Crato
Praça da República. stone fountain with Road map D4. * 2,000. £ @
Now the Museu a pillared canopy. n Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Flor
José Régio, it Just above is the da Rosa, inside the pousada (245 997
contains some maze-like Judiaria, 341). ( 3rd Thu of month.
fascinating folk where small white
art objects in a houses sprout vivid Modest houses under outsize
variety of media as pots of geraniums. chimneys give no hint of Crato’s
well as his collection Its cobbled alleys are past eminence. Part of a gift from
of crucifixes and a lined with fine Gothic Sancho II to the powerful
recreated Alentejan doorways and conceal a crusading Order of Hospitallers,
kitchen. The Espaço 13th- century synagogue Crato was the Order’s head-
Cultural – Museu housing a small museum. quarters by 1350. Its prestige was
Municipal de The town’s oldest chapel, such that Manuel I and João III
Portalegre displays the 13th-century were both married here, and
fine examples of 16th- Salvador do Mundo João III’s nephew was Grand Prior.
century painting and on the Estrada de In 1662, invading Spanish
sculpture, as well as Folk crucifix, Museu José Circunvalação, has forces sacked and burned the
beautifully crafted Régio, Portalegre a much admired town, which never recovered.
18th-century furniture. Flight into Egypt by The Hospitallers’ castle remains,
an unknown 18th-century artist. in ruins, and in Praça do
E Museu da Tapeçaria In the upper town, the tiny Município the 15th-century
Rua da Figueira. Tel 245 307 530. Nossa Senhora da Alegria offers Varanda do Grão-Prior marks
Open 9:30am–1pm & 2:30–6pm a feast of 17th-century polyc- the entrance to what was the
Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. & hrome floral tiles. It stands Grand Prior’s residence.
E Museu José Régio within the walls of the castle that Rua de Santa Maria leads, via
Rua José Régio. Tel 245 307 535. gave the town its name. This an avenue of orange trees, to
Open 9:30am–1pm & 2:30–6pm was rebuilt in 1310 by King Dinis, the Igreja Matriz, much altered
Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. & who negotiated here to marry since its 13th-century origins. In
E Espaço Cultural – Museu Isabel of Aragon. Inside the the chancel, 18th-century
Municipal de Portalegre castle are two small museums, azulejos depict fishing, hunting
Rua José Marta da Rosa. Tel 245 307 the Megalith Interpretation and travelling scenes.
525. Open 9am–1pm & 2:30–6pm Centre and the Military Archi-
Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. tecture and History Museum. Environs
Just north of Crato are the
imposing monastery and
church of Flor da Rosa. Built
in 1356 by the Grand Prior of
Crato, father of Nuno Álvares
Pereira (see p189), the monastery
was restored and in 1995
opened as a pousada (see
p393). A tapestry in the dining
room shows the monastery
surrounded by pine forests, as
The crenellated monastery, now a pousada, of Flor da Rosa, near Crato it was until the 20th century.
6 Alter do Chão R Capela dos Ossos

Largo Dr Regala 6. Tel 268 686 168.
Road map D4. * 3,900. @ Open daily (if closed, speak to priest).
n Palácio do Álamo (245 610 004).
E Museu do Café
( 1st Thu of month.
Delta Coffee, Herdade das
The Romans founded Civitas Argamassas. Tel 268 680 000.
Abelterium in 204 BC, but razed it Open 9am–1pm & 2:30–6:30pm
under the Emperor Hadrian after Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm & 3–6pm Sat.
Closed public hols.
the inhabitants were accused of
disloyalty. The town was re-estab-
lished in the 13th century.
Dominating the town centre 8 Elvas
is the five-towered castle. It has
Road map D5. * 20,000. £ @
a Gothic portal built in 1359 n Praça da República (268 622 236).
by Pedro I. The flower-filled ( 2nd & 4th Mon of the month.
market square, the Largo Doze
Melhores de Alter, lies at its feet. Campo Maior’s macabre but compelling Only 12 km (7 miles) from the
Several streets northwest of the Capela dos Ossos Spanish border, Elvas feels like a
castle are graced by fine Baroque frontier town. The old town’s
town houses, many trimmed 7 Campo Maior fortifications are among the
with Alentejan-style yellow Road map E5. * 8,500. @ n Largo
best preserved in Europe and
paintwork. The 18th- century do Barata (268 689 367). ( 2nd Sat of a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Casa do Álamo (open daily) month. Within the walls a few archi-
houses an art gallery and library. tectural features and many of
According to legend, this town the street names are reminders
+ Castle got its name when three families that for 500 years the town was
Largo Barreto Caldeira. Open May– settled in campo maior, the in Moorish hands.
Sep: 10am–12:20pm & 3–7pm; Oct– “bigger field”. King Dinis fortified Elvas was liberated from the
Apr: 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm. the town in 1310 and the Moors in 1230, but for another
monumental Porta da Vila was 600 years its fate was to swing
Environs added in 1646. between periodic attacks from
Alter is best known for the In 1732 a gunpowder maga- Spain. Today Elvas is mostly
Coudelaria de Alter, founded in zine, ignited by lightning, associated with Elvas plums.
1748 to breed the Alter Real. The destroyed the citadel
stud farm extends to 300 ha (740 and killed 1,500 people.
acres) around attractive stables It seems likely that after
painted in the royal livery of a decent period, the vic-
white and ochre. Accommodation tims provided the
is available here. material for the morbid
Spanning the Seda 12 km Capela dos Ossos,
(7 miles) west along the N369 entirely faced in human
is the robust six-arched Ponte de bones. Dated 1766, it
Vila Formosa. This bridge carried bears an inscription on
the Roman road from Lisbon to mortality spelt out in
Mérida in Spain. collar bones.
The Museu do Café
G Coudelaria de Alter charts the history of
3 km (2 miles) NW of town. Tel 245 this popular beverage
610 060. Open Tue–Sun. Closed with exhibits such as
1 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec. & 7 rare antique grinders. Summer roses brightening an Elvas street
Alter Real: Horse of Kings

Most Lusitano horses – Portugal’s national breed – are grey, but
those called Alter Real (“real” means royal) are purebred bay or
brown. King José (1750–77), who yearned for a quality Portuguese
horse, imported a stock of Andalusian mares, from which the
gracious, nimble Alter Real was bred. The equestrian statue in
Lisbon’s Praça do Comércio (see p89) is of José astride his beloved
Alter, Gentil. The stud prospered until the Napoleonic Wars (1807–
15), when horse stealing and erratic breeding sent the Alter into
decline. By 1930, the royal horse was practically extinct, but years
of dedication have ultimately revived this classic breed.
ALENTEJO  303
The Fortifications of Elvas Castle Ravelin, protecting the

A walk around the top of the battlements gives a fine town wall
view of the old town and a vantage point from which
to appreciate the ingenious design of the fortifications.
Using the principles of the French military architect,
the Marquis de Vauban, a series of pentagonal
bastions and freestanding angled ravelins form
a multifaceted star, protecting the walls
from every angle. What survives dates
mostly from the 17th century, when
the defences held off Spanish troops
in the War of Restoration (see pp54–5).
Elvas also served as Wellington’s base
to besiege Badajoz across the Guadiana.
Two surviving satellite forts indicate the Portas da
strategic importance of Elvas: just to the south Olivença, the
east lies the military fort and museum of Forte de main gateway
Santa Luzia (1641–87; open Tue–Sun), and 2 km Demilune,
0 metres 250
(1 mile) to the north is the carefully restored 18th protecting
century Forte de Graça, also open to the public. the bastion Bastion 0 yards 250
+ Castle cameras and photographic Just behind the church is the

Parada do Castelo. Open Tue–Sun equipment. There is also a archway of the Arab Porta da
Closed 1 & 14 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, library devoted to photography. Alcáçova, a vestige of Elvas’s
25 Dec. Moorish fortifications. In the
RomanoMoorish in origin, the E Museu de Arte adjacent Largo do Dr Santa
castle was rebuilt for Sancho II in Contemporânea de Elvas Clara is a pillory, carved in
1226. It underwent further remod Rua da Cadeia. Tel 268 637 150. Manueline style (see pp28–9)
elling over the years, mainly by Open Apr–Sep: 3–6pm Tue, and still armed with its hooks.
King Dinis, and in the late 15th 11am–6pm Wed–Sun; Oct–Mar:
century, under João II, whose coat 2–5pm Tue, 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.
of arms, incorporating a pelican, The only national museum
is seen above the entrance. Until displaying exclusively contempo
the late 1500s the castle was the rary Portuguese art occupies a
residence of the mayors of Elvas. former hospital. The collection
includes works by artists such as
R Nossa Senhora da Adriana Molder, André Gomes
Assunção and Joana Vasconcelos.
Praça da República. Tel 268 625 997.
Open Tue pm–Sun. 7 (via side door). R Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos
Until 1882, this was the cathedral Largo do Pelourinho. Open Tue–Sun.
of Elvas. Built in the early 16th The plain exterior belies the wealth The arches of the great aqueduct
century, its architect was Francisco within the walls of this little 16th
de Arruda, who also designed the century church. Its appeal is in T Aqueduto da Amoreira
town’s impressive aqueduct. His the fine marble columns and Until the 16th century the only
Manueline south portal survives, spectacular azulejos added in the source of drinking water in Elvas
but much of the church has been 17th century. These line the walls was the Alcalá well in the west
modified. The azulejos in the nave and reach up into the cupola. of the town. When this began to
date from the early 17th century. fail, alarmed citizens conceived
the notion of an aqueduct to
E Museu Municipal de bring water from the spring at
Fotografia João Carpinteiro Amoreira, some 8 km (5 miles)
Largo Luís de Camões. Tel 268 636 away. Work, begun in 1498, was
470. Open Tue–Sun. Closed public not finished until 1622. The
hols. & great round buttresses and
Exhibition space at this fascinating arches of architect Francisco
museum is divided into the de Arruda march across the
History of Photography Room, valley and still deliver water to
which displays numerous black the fountain in the Largo da
andwhite images documenting Misericórdia. The aqueduct
life in the region; and the has a total of 843 arches in
Collector’s Room, which fea up to five tiers and in places
tures rare and valuable vintage Largo do Dr Santa Clara, with its pillory towers to over 30 m (100 ft).
Vila Viçosa: Paço Ducal Chapel

Despite later additions,
The dukes of Bragança owned vast estates, the chapel has
retained its coffered
but the lavish palace at Vila Viçosa, begun ceiling and other
by Dom Jaime in 1501, became their features from the early
favoured residence. 16th century. It was
When the 8th Duke became king in 1640, here, on 3 December
1640, that the 8th
many of the furnishings accompanied him Duke learnt that he
to Lisbon, but the long suite of first-floor was to become king.
rooms is still splendid, from the Sala da
Cabra-Cega, where royal parties played Dining
blind man’s buff, to the heroic Sala de room
Hércules. More intimate are the rooms
of King Carlos and his wife, which are
much as he left them the day before his First floor
assassination in 1908.
The vast kitchen, which

once regularly fed several
hundred people, gleams
with over 600 copper
pots and pans,
some large
enough to
bathe in.
. Sala dos Duques

Lining the ceiling of the Room
of the Dukes are portraits of Sala da
all the dukes of Bragança by Cabra-Cega
the Italian Domenico Dupra
(1689 –1770), commissioned The armouries, in a series
by João V. On the walls are of vaulted rooms, display
Brussels tapestries of scenes swords, crossbows,
from the life of Achilles. halberds and suits
of armour.
Ground floor
The library is
contained in
several rooms and
includes precious early
works collected by King
Manuel II in exile (see p59).
Formal Gardens
The Jardim da Duquesa and the Jardim do
Bosque are partly enclosed by palace walls,
but can be seen from the dining-room
windows. Their geometric formality reflects
the palace’s architectural style. Entrance
ALENTEJO  305
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9 Vila Viçosa

Terreiro do Paço. Tel 268 980 659. Road map D5. * 8,700. @
Open Apr–Sep: 2:30–5:30pm Tue, n Praça da República (268 889 317).
10am–1pm & 2:30–5:30pm Wed– ( Wed.
Fri, 9:30am–1pm & 2:30–6pm Sat
& Sun (Jul & Aug: to 6pm Tue–Sun); After the expulsion of the Moors
Oct–Mar: 2–5pm Tue, 10am–1pm in 1226, this hillside town was
& 2–5pm Wed–Fri, 9:30am–1pm & named Val Viçosa – “fertile
2–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed public valley”. In the 15th century it
hols, 16 Aug. & 8 compulsory. became the country seat of the
dukes of Bragança, and when
the 8th Duke became King
Key to Floorplan
João IV, Vila Viçosa was
Royal rooms expanded to meet the needs View from the castle at Vila Viçosa, looking
Library of nobles and visiting ministers. towards the Paço Ducal
Chapel
Substantial houses, built from
the local white marble, in streets In the Renaissance Convento
Armouries
lined with orange trees, reflect das Chagas, on the south side
Kitchen its prosperous royal past. of the square, are the tombs of
Treasury The town is full of reminders the Bragança wives. Founded
Public areas of the Braganças. Dominating by the 4th Duke’s second wife
the west side of the Terreiro do in 1530, the convent has been
Paço is the long façade of the converted into a pousada hotel.
Palace Guide Paço Ducal, which stretches for Alongside the Paço Ducal,
Guided tours, which last 110 m (360 ft). Visitors to the an 18km (11mile) wall rings
about an hour, take in the royal palace emerge through the the tapada real, or royal chase.
rooms ranged along the first Porta do Nó, a marble and schist Uphill from the Terreiro do
floor and ground-floor areas gateway formed into the knot Paço is the castle, where an
such as the kitchen and the symbol of the Braganças. exhibition explains the history
treasury. Entry to the coach In the centre of the square a of the hunt. The castle, built by
museum, on the north side of statue of João IV on horseback King Dinis, was the Braganças’
the palace, and armoury looks across to the Igreja dos residence from 1461 until the
is by separate tickets. From Agostinhos (not open to the Paço Ducal became habitable.
time to time areas may public). Founded in 1267 but In the nearby 14thcentury
be closed for restora- rebuilt in the 17th century, the church of Nossa Senhora da
tion and rooms church was intended as the last Conceição stands a Gothic
can be shut off resting place of the dukes, but image of the Virgin, said to be
without notice. despite their affection for Vila from England. During the 1646
Viçosa, most Bragança mon cortes João IV crowned her as
archs are buried in Lisbon, at patron saint of Portugal, after
São Vicente de Fora (see p74). which no Portuguese monarch
ever wore a crown.
The Royal House of Bragança + Castle
Afonso, illegitimate son of João I, was Avenida Duques de Bragança.
created Duke of Bragança in 1442, first Tel 268 980 128. Open same as
of an influential but bloodstained Paço Ducal. Closed public hols. &
dynasty. Fernando, the 3rd Duke, was
executed in 1483 by his cousin, João II,
who feared his power. Jaime, the
unstable 4th Duke, locked up his wife
in Bragança castle (see p264), then killed
Catherine, born at Vila her at Vila Viçosa. It was Dom Jaime who
Viçosa in 1638 initiated the building of the palace at Vila
Viçosa, an ambitious work embellished
by later dukes to reflect their aspirations and affluence. The 8th
Duke only reluctantly relinquished a life of music and hunting
here to take up the throne (see p54).
The Braganças ruled Portugal for 270 years, accumulating wealth
and forging alliances (João IV’s daughter, Catherine, married Charles II
of England), but inbreeding enfeebled the bloodline. The last
monarch, Manuel II, fled to exile in 1910, two years after his father
and brother were shot by Republicans. The present duke lives in
Sintra, near Lisbon. The Porta do Nó, its carved knots the
symbol of the Braganças
q Redondo
da República (266 909 100). ( 1st
Sun of month (antiques); 2nd Thu of
month (general).
As with much of the Alentejo

(see p33), Redondo is known
for its wines; however, this
medieval town is also famous
for its pottery. Roman-style
water jugs, casseroles and bowls
painted with humorous folk-art
motifs are sold from the tiny
white houses leading up to the
ruins of the castle founded by
King Dinis.
Environs
The Convento de São Paulo
in the Serra de Ossa, 10 km
(6 miles) north, was built in
1376; Catherine of Bragança
stayed here on her return home
in 1692 after the death of her
husband, King Charles II of
England. It is now a luxury
Alandroal, surrounded by groves of cork oaks hotel (see p393), but retains
its wonderful 16th- to
0 Alandroal the castle walls contains beauti- 18th-century azulejos.
Road map D5. * 2,500. @
ful azulejos reputed to be the
n Praça da República (268 440 work of Policarpo de Oliveira
045). ( Wed. Bernardes (1695–1778). w Estremoz
Road map D5. * 9,000. @
The low-lying town of Alandroal, Environs n Rossio Marquês de Pombal
wrapped tidily around its castle Terena, 10 km (6 miles) south (268 339 227). ( Sat.
ruins, was built by the Knights of Alandroal, is well known for
of Avis, who settled here from its pottery. The 14th-century A key stronghold in the War of
1220. Little remains inside, but a sanctuary of Nossa Senhora de Restoration (see p54) and then
sur viving inscription shows it Boa Nova has frescoes covering in the War of the Two Brothers
was completed in 1298. The its walls and ceiling; dating from (see p58), Estremoz looks out
Igreja Matriz within its walls 1706, these depict saints and from its hilltop over groves
dates from the 16th century. Portuguese kings. For access ask of gnarled olive trees.
The Misericórdia church near at the house opposite the church. The medieval upper town,
set within stout ramparts, is
dominated by a 13th-century
Marble: Alentejo’s White Gold marble keep, rising to 27 m
Portugal is the world’s second largest exporter of marble, and even (89 ft). This is the Torre das
Italy, the biggest producer, buys Portugal’s quality stone. Around 90 Três Coroas, the Tower of the
per cent – over 500,000 tonnes a year – is quarried around Estremoz. Three Crowns, recalling the
The marble from Estremoz and nearby Borba and Vila Viçosa is white or kings (Sancho II, Afonso III and
pink, while the quarries Dinis) in whose reigns it was
at Viana do Alentejo built. The adjoining castle and
yield green stone. Marble palace complex, built for
has been used for con- Dona Isabel, is now a pousada
struction since Roman
(see p393). The saintly Isabel (see
times and in towns such
p49), wife of King Dinis, died
as Évora (see pp308–11)
and Vila Viçosa (see here in 1336 and the Capela
pp304–5), palaces and da Rainha Santa dedicated to
humble doorsteps alike her is lined with azulejos
gleam with the stone recording her life.
Quarrymen near Estremoz, working on elephantine often referred to as Today the bustling weekly
blocks of prized marble “white gold”. market in the Rossio, the main
square in the lower town, is a
ALENTEJO  307
reflection of local farming life. The principal sight in

Across the square are the Arraiolos, however, is of women
remains of King Dinis’s once-fine stitching at their bright wool
palace and the town’s Museu rugs in the shadowy rooms
Municipal, with a display of behind the main street. Carpets
archaeological finds, restored have been woven in Arraiolos
living rooms and a parade of since the 13th century and
bonecos, the charming pottery decorate countless manor
figurines for which Estremoz is houses and palaces through-
famous (see p417). out Portugal. The craft may
have begun with the Moors,
E Museu Municipal de Estremoz but floral designs of the 18th
Professor Joaquim Vermelho century are thought to be the
Largo Dom Dinis. Tel 268 333 608. finest. As well as browsing
Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm Tue– the town’s many carpet shops,
Sun. Closed public hols. & you can visit the Centro The view down the nave of the Igreja
R Capela da Rainha Santa Interpretativo do Tapete to Matriz in Montemor-o-Novo
Largo Dom Dinis. (Access via adjacent discover more about this
Design Gallery.) Open Ask at the Igreja ancient craft. Almançor. The town, regained
de Santa Maria, on Largo Dom Dinis. from the Moors in the reign of
E Centro Interpretativo Sancho I, was awarded its first
do Tapete charter in 1203. The castle, re-
e Évoramonte Praça do Município 19. Tel 266 built in the late 13th century, is
490 254. Open 10am–1pm & 2–6pm now a ruin crowning the hill.
Road map D5. * 1,000. @ n Rua Tue–Sun. ∑ tapetedearraiolos.pt Montemor’s 17th-century
Santa Maria (268 959 227).
Igreja Matriz stands in Largo
Above the doorway of No. 41, Environs São João de Deus, named after
along Évoramonte’s single At Pavia, 18 km (11 miles) to the saint who was born nearby
street, is a historic plaque. It the north, is the startling sight in 1495. The Order of Brothers
records that here, on 26 May of a tiny chapel built into a Hospitallers that St John of
1834, Dom Miguel ceded the dolmen. It is signposted as God founded evolved from
throne, ending the conflict Anta de São Dinis; if closed, his care for the sick, especially
with his older brother (see p58). ask at the café nearby. foundlings and prisoners.
The eye-catching castle, A former convent in the
its walls bound by bold upper town now houses
stone “ropes”, largely replaced t Montemor-o- the Museu de Arqueologia,
an earlier castle that fell in an Novo where the exhibits include
earthquake in 1531. The 16th- local archaeological finds
Road map C5. * 9,000. @
century walls have been and antique farming tools.
n Largo Calouste Gulbenkian
restored using a patina tech-
(266 898 103). ( 2nd Sat of month.
nique. An exhibition explains E Museu de Arqueologia
the castle’s history. Montemor was fortified by Convento de São Domingos, Largo
the Romans and then by the Professor Dr Banha de Andrade.
+ Castle Moors – the Arab warrior Tel 266 890 235.
Open Tue pm–Sun. Closed last Al-Mansur is remembered in Open 10am–1pm & 3–5pm Tue–Sun.
weekend of month. & the name of the nearby River Closed public hols. & 7
r Arraiolos
Road map D5. * 3,500. @
n Praça do Município (266 490 254).
( 1st Sat of month.
The foundation of Arraiolos

is attributed either to Celts
or perhaps to local tribes in
about 300 BC. Its 14th-century
castle seems overwhelmed
by the town walls and looming
16th-century Igreja do
Salvador. Typically, houses in
Arraiolos are low and white,
and are painted with a blue
trim to ward off the devil. Arraiolos, crowned by its castle and the Igreja do Salvador
y Street-by-Street: Évora
Rising out of the Alentejan plain is the enchanting . Roman Temple
walled city of Évora. The town rose to prominence Popularly believed to
under the Romans and flourished throughout the have been dedicated
to the goddess Diana,
Middle Ages as a centre of learning and the arts.
this temple was
It was a popular residence of Portuguese kings, erected in the 2nd or
but fell out of favour after Spain’s annexation of 3rd century AD. It was
Portugal in 1580. Its influence waned further when used as armoury,
theatre and
the Jesuit university closed in the 18th century.
slaughterhouse
Students once again throng Évora’s streets, joined before being
by visitors who come to discover its many rescued in
historical sites and enjoy the atmosphere of the 1870.
old town. The city’s historic legacy was officially
recognized in 1986, when UNESCO declared Évora
a World Heritage Site.
AS
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PRAÇA DO
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Tourist
information
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To railway and
bus stations
0 metres 50
Praça do Giraldo
The fountain in Évora’s main square was erected in 1571. 0 yards 50
Its marble predecessor received the first water delivered by
the town’s aqueduct (see p311).
ÉVORA  309
Convento dos Lóios

This 15th-century monastery is now a
luxurious pousada, where guests sleep in
cells and dine in the cloisters (see p393).The
Map D5. * 55,000.
convent’s white-fronted church, known as
n Praça do Giraldo (266 777
Os Lóios or São João Evangelista and part
071). ( Sat & 2nd Tue of month.
of the Palácio Cadaval, contains some
_ Jun: Festa de São João; Jul:
notable 18th-century azulejos.
Évora Classical Music Festival.
Old University
Transport
(see p310)
£ Largo da Estação. @ Estrada
Paço de São Miguel de Lisboa.
(see p310)
RU
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DO
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CONDE DE . Museu de Évora

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The city’s museum (see p310) includes
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works by artists who painted in Évora,

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Casa de Garcia de Resende

The house of the Renaissance poet
FR
and diplomat, Garcia de Resende

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(1470–1536), is distinguished by a
A
remarkable Manueline window.

RU
. Sé
Évora’s cathedral (see p310),
L. DE MIGUEL which took over 50 years to
DE PORTUGAL complete, has the look of a
fortress about it. The portal
is flanked by a pair of
unmatched towers.
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U Largo do Marquês de Marialva
R
The Igreja da Misericórdia is

LARGO DE noted for its panels of early
Á LVA R O
VELHO 18th-century azulejos (see p30).
Nossa Senhora da Graça

Above the Palladian façade of this
16th-century church loom four muscular
figures supporting globes. They are quaintly
nicknamed Os Meninos, “the children”.
Exploring Évora P University

Largo dos Colegiais 2. Tel 266 740 875.
Squeezed within Roman, medieval and 17th-century Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
walls, Évora’s web of streets is an architectural and cultural With the establishment of
cornucopia. From the forbidding cathedral, a stroll down past the Jesuits’ Colégio do Espírito
Santo, Évora, already noted for
the craft shops of Rua 5 de Outubro leads to Praça do Giraldo,
its architecture and sacred art,
the city’s lively main square, whose arcades are a reminder of became a seat of learning. The
Moorish influence. Évora’s religious dedication is reflected in school flourished for 200 years
the number and variety of its churches – over 20 churches but was closed in 1759 when the
and monasteries, including a grisly chapel of bones. On reforming Marquês de Pombal
a happier note, Évora’s restaurants are excellent and the banished the Jesuits (see p57).
Today part of the University of
pleasure of wandering the historic streets is enhanced by Évora, the school still has a graceful
evocative names such as Alley of the Unshaven Man and cloister and notable azulejos –
Street of the Countess’s Tailor. in the classrooms they depict
suitably studious themes such as
Plato lecturing to disciples (1744–
9). The 18th-century Baroque
chapel, now the Sala dos Actos, is
used for graduation ceremonies.
P Praça do Giraldo
Évora’s bustling main square may
be named after Geraldo Sem
Favour (the Fearless), an outlaw
who ousted the Moors for King
Afonso Henriques in 1165.
Azulejos at the Old University, depicting Aristotle teaching Alexander
P Paço de São Miguel
R Sé E Museu de Évora Tel 266 748 300. Open 9am–12:30pm
Largo do Marquês de Marialva. Largo do Conde de Vila Flor. Tel 266 & 2:30–5:30 Tue–Sun. Closed public
Tel 266 759 330. Open daily (museum 702 604. Open 2–6pm Tue, 10am– hols. 8 book in advance.
Tue–Sun). & 6pm Wed–Sun. Closed some public This grand 15th-century museum
Begun in 1186 and consecrated hols. & was the residence of the influential
in 1204, the granite cathedral of This 16th-century palace, once Counts of Basto and, later, the
Santa Maria was completed by the residence of governors and Eugénio de Almeida family.
1250. Romanesque melds with bishops, is now the regional
Gothic in this castle-like museum. Évora’s history is all P Palácio dos Duques
cathedral whose towers, one here, from Roman columns de Cadaval
turreted, one topped by a blue to modern sculpture in local Tel 266 704 714. Open Tue–Sun. &
cone, give the façade an odd marble. Notable upstairs are The Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval,
asymmetry. Flanking the portal The Life of the Virgin, a 16th- on the site of the city’s former
between them are superb century Flemish polyptych castle, dates from the 14th century.
14th-century sculpted apostles. in 13 panels and works by the The façade is noted for its unusual
The 18th-century high altar and Portuguese painter the Master pentagonal tower. Inside, rooms
marble chancel are by J F of Sardoal, especially his Two display medieval armour, illumi-
Ludwig, the architect of the Bishop-Saints and nated 14th-century manuscripts
monastery at Mafra (see a Nativity. and 18th-century religious art.
pp56–7). A Renaissance
portal in the north transept R São Francisco
is by Nicolau Chanterène. Praça 1° de Maio. Tel 266 704 521.
In the cloisters, which date Open daily. & to Capela dos Ossos.
from about 1325, statues The main attraction of this 15th-
of the Evangelists stand century church is its Capela dos
watch at each corner. Ossos, a gruesome chapel of
A glittering treasury bones created in the 17th century
houses sacred art. The from the remains of 5,000 monks.
most intriguing exhibit Two leathery corpses, one of a
here is a 13th-century ivory child, dangle from a chain, and a
Virgin whose body opens mordant reminder at the entrance
out to become a triptych reads: Nós ossos que aqui estamos,
of tiny carved scenes: her Carved figures of the apostles decorating the pelos vossos esperamos (“We bones
life in nine episodes. Gothic entrance to the Sé that are here await yours”).
ÉVORA  311
+ Walls
The fortifications that have
protected Évora down the
centuries form two incomplete
concentric circles. The inner
ring, of which only fragments
are discernible, is Roman, from
perhaps as early as the 1st
century AD, with Moorish and
medieval additions – the two
stubby towers that give the
Largo da Porta de Moura its
name mark an Arab gate.
In the 14th century, new walls
were built to encompass the
growing town. Completed
under Fernando I, these had 40
Largo da Porta de Moura, with its striking Renaissance fountain towers and ten gates, including
the Porta de Alconchel, which
P Largo da Porta de Moura E Fundação Eugénio still faces the Lisbon road.
The western entrance to this de Almeida When João IV was defiantly
square is guarded by the vestiges Páteo de São Miguel. Tel 266 748 300. declared king in 1640 (see p54),
of a Moorish gateway. Both the Carriage Museum: Open Tue–Sun. major fortifications were erected
domed Casa Soure and the Closed public hols. on this outer ring in anticipation
double arches of the belvedere This avant-garde modern of Spanish attack, and it is these
on Casa Cordovil at the opposite exhibition space plays host to 17th-century walls which are most
end, show the Arab influence on local and national artists and the evident today. The fear of attack
architecture in Évora. The central occasional international name, was not unfounded, and the walls
fountain, looking like some futur- such as Marcel Duchamp. It also withstood much battering from
istic orb, surprisingly dates back promotes the performing arts, the besieging Spanish in 1663.
to 1556. Just south of the square, staging regular concerts and reci-
the portal of the Convento do tals. The building provides access
Carmo features the knot sym- to the Carriage Museum, and
bol, denoting it once belonged tours to the nearby Cartuxa
to the Braganças (see p305). winery can be booked here.
The Romans in the Alentejo

Once the Romans gained dominance over Lusitania (see pp44–5),
they turned the Alentejo into a vast wheatfield: their very name
for Évora – Ebora Liberalitas Julia – reflects the now-diminished
importance of the region’s grain supply. Latifúndios, large farms Surviving arches of Évora’s 16th-century
instigated by the Romans, survive to this day, as do vestiges of aqueduct
Roman open-cast copper and iron mines. Local marble was used
in the construction of the finest villas, and Roman remains can be T Aqueduto da Água
found scattered throughout the region, especially in Évora and de Prata
Beja (Pax Julia), the region’s principal town (see p317) and in more Évora’s aqueduct was built
isolated sites such as São Cucufate, near Vidigueira (see p316), and
between 1531 and 1537 by the
Miróbriga, near Santiago do Cacém (see p318).
town’s own eminent architect,
Francisco de Arruda. The
construction was regarded with
wonder, and is even described in
Os Lusíadas, the epic by Luís de
Camões (see p194). It originally
carried water as far as the Praça
do Giraldo. Like the walls, it was
damaged in the 17th century
during the Restoration War with
Spain, but a surviving stretch,
some 9 km (6 miles) long, can
still be seen approaching from
the northwest: visitors can
Roman bridge over the Odivelas, near Vidigueira follow a well-signposted trail
for 8.3 km (5.1 miles).
u Megaliths Tour
Archaeologists date the pedras talhas, hewn stones, near
Évora to between 4000 and 2000 BC. Their symbolism remains
mysterious. Dolmens are thought to be where Neolithic
communities buried their dead, together with their possessions
– more than 130 have been found in the region. Tall phallic
menhirs jutting from olive groves immediately suggest fertility
rites, while cromlechs – carved stones standing in regulated
groups – probably had religious significance. This tour
includes examples of each; more can be found further east,
near Monsaraz and Reguengos de Monsaraz, and the museum
in Castelo de Vide (see p301) has finds related to the area. 2 Menhir of Almendres
Standing 2.5 m (8 ft) tall,
3 Cromlech of Almendres this solitary stone is located
This oval, made up of 95 away from the cromlech,
ellipitical stones, is believed in an olive grove behind
to have been a temple a row of tall storage bins.
dedicated to a solar cult. The
route to the cromlech is
signposted from the N114.
1 Évora
In the undulating farmland
6 Grutas do Escoural Montemor-o-Novo Arraiolos around the historic city of
Discovered in 1963, these Évora (see pp308–11) at least
caves contain paintings 150 megalith sites have
about 15–20,000 been found.
years old.
São Matias
• Giesteira
Montemor- Guadalupe
o-Novo Senhora da
Boa Fé
Santiago São Brissos Valverde

do Escoural
Alcàçovas
4 Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Alcàçovas
This, the largest dolmen in
Portugal, has an entrance passage
14 m (46 ft) long leading to a
chamber built of enormous stones.
It is off the beaten track; the route
from Valverde leads across farmland.
Key
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 80 km (50 miles).
Tour route
Access to sites: The only
5 Dolmen-chapel of Other roads guarded site is Escoural. The
São Brissos
caves are closed at lunchtime,
Beyond the hamlet of
on Mondays and at some other
Brissos, this tiny chapel
times. Access roads to the sites
has been created from
0 kilometres 5 are often no more than tracks,
an anta or dolmen.
and signposting can be erratic.
Another is to be found 0 miles 3
(See pp444–5.)
at Pavia (see p307).
ALENTEJO  313
o Viana do Alentejo
da República (266 930 012). ( 2nd &
last Thu of month.
Viana do Alentejo’s castle, begun

in 1313, was built to the design
of King Dinis, the height of the
outer wall exactly calculated to
protect soldiers from attacking
lancers. The unusual cylindrical
towers show a Moorish
influence and much of the later
remodelling dates from João II,
who held a cortes here in 1481–2.
Mirroring the castle walls are
the crenellations and pinnacles
of the adjacent 16th-century
Riding through the narrow streets of Monsaraz on the day of a bullfight Igreja Matriz. The highly carved
Manueline entrance to this
i Monsaraz collection of vestments, fortified church leads into a
Road map D5. * 150. @ n Rua
religious books and sculpture. majestic triple-naved interior.
Direita (927 597 316). Its earlier role as a law court is Ten minutes’ walk east of the
reflected in an unusual secular town stands the vast pilgrimage
The tiny medieval walled town of fresco: O Bom e o Mau Juiz (The church of Nossa Senhora de
Monsaraz perches above the River Good and Bad Judge). Aires, rebuilt in the 1700s. Inside,
Guadiana on the frontier with the chancel’s golden canopy
Spain. Now a pretty backwater, it E Museu de Arte Sacra contrasts with pilgrims’ humble
has known more turbulent times. Largo Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira. ex votos. Every April, hundreds
Regained from the Moors in Tel 266 508 040. Open Tue–Sun. & of people participate in the
1167 by the intrepid adventurer Moita–Viana do Alentejo Horse
Geraldo Sem-Pavor (the Fearless), Environs Pilgrimage. Originally of a
the town was handed over to Surrounded by vineyards, religious nature, the event today
the militant Knights Templar. Its Reguengos de Monsaraz, has become more of a festival.
frontier position continued to 16 km (10 miles) west, lies at
expose it to Spanish attack, but the heart of one of the region’s Environs
in 1381 assault came from an demarcated wine areas (see p33). The Moorish-style castle at
unexpected quarter. Troops of São Pedro do Corval, 5 km Alvito, 10 km (6 miles) south
the Earl of Cambridge, Portugal’s (3 miles) east of Reguengos de of Viana, was built in 1482 for
ally, were enraged by lack of Monsaraz, is one of Portugal’s the newly ennobled Barão
pay and the annulment of the greatest centres for pottery. de Alvito; it now operates as
earl’s betrothal to Fernando I’s A number of striking a pousada.
daughter, and unleashed their megaliths is found near
wrath on Monsaraz. Monsaraz. The spectacular
Principal access to the town Menhir of Outeiro, 5.6 m
is through the massive Porta da (18 ft) tall, and the strangely
Vila. Rua Direita, the main street, inscribed Menhir of Belhôa
leads up to the castle. Built by are signposted in Telheiro,
Afonso III and Dinis in the 13th just north of Monsaraz.
century as part of the border About 4 km (2 miles) south
defences, it was reinforced in is the Cromlech of Xerez,
the 17th century. The keep a menhir in a square of
commands glorious views in all lesser stones.
directions and at its foot is the At Mourão, some 8 km
garrison courtyard which today (5 miles) further on, the
serves on occasion as a bullring. 14th-century castle looks
The 16th-century Igreja Matriz out over Lake Alqueva.
in Rua Direita is worth visiting Houseboats, canoes and
for its tall gilded altars and kayaks to explore the lake
painted pillars. The 17th- and can be hired at the marina
18th-century houses along here at Amieira, 39 km (24 miles)
display coats of arms. In the further south. Sightseeing
Gothic Paços da Audiência, now cruises can also be booked The low roofs and distinctive pepperpot chimneys
the Museu de Arte Sacra, is a here (Tel: 266 611 173/4). of Mourão, near Monsaraz
Whitewashed houses in the village of Monsaraz
s Serpa
Road map D6. * 6,000. @ n Rua
dos Cavalos 19 (284 544 727). ( last
Tue of month.
Serpa’s stout walls are topped

by an arched aqueduct. Beside
the monumental Porta de Beja
is a nora, or Arab water wheel.
Won from the Moors in 1232,
Serpa successfully resisted
foreign control until a brief
Spanish occupation in 1707.
Today, Serpa is a quiet agri-
cultural town known for its
cheese. Pleasing squares and
streets of whitewashed houses
The vineyards around Vidigueira caught in the evening light are overlooked by a Moorish
castle, rebuilt in the late 13th
p Vidigueira house, whose wine presses, century. The Watch Museum, in
reservoir and temple indicate a the Convento do Mosteirinho,
Vasco da Gama 1, inside the Municipal sumptuous Roman residence. boasts some 1,800 timepieces,
Museum (284 437 260). ( 2nd Sat The Cortes de Cima winery is all of them mechanical and some
of month. ∑ vinhosdoalentejo.pt close by and can be visited. dating from the 17th century.
Fine wines make Vidigueira a E Watch Museum

leading centre of wine production a Moura Convento do Mosteirinho. Tel 284
in the Alentejo region. Less well 543 194. Open Tue–Sun.
Road map D6. * 7,000. @ ∑ museuregionaldebeja.pt
known is the fact that the explorer n inside the castle (285 251 375).
Vasco da Gama was Conde de ( 1st Sat of month.
Vidigueira. His remains, now in
the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Legend mingles with history in
(see pp108–9), lay from 1539 this quiet town among oak and
to 1898 in the Convento do olive trees. Salúquia, daughter
Carmo, now private property. of a Moorish governor is said to
A modern statue of the town’s have thrown herself from the
most famous son stands in the castle tower on learning that her
flowery square named after him. lover had been killed. From this
The main features of this little tragedy the town acquired its
town are a Misericórdia church name – Moura, the Moorish girl.
dated 1620, and a clock tower The town’s old Moorish quarter
from Vasco da Gama’s time. is an area of narrow streets and Serpa’s great Porta de Beja
low, whitewashed houses.
Environs Even after the Reconquest Environs
One of Portugal’s most notable in the 12th century, Moura’s Serpa is just 35 km (22 miles)
Roman sites, São Cucufate, frontier position left it open to from the Spanish border. The
named after a later monastery, lies attack. A siege in 1657, during Moors, and later Spain, fought
4 km (2 miles) west. The vaulting the War of Restoration (see pp54– for control of the region, which
belonged to a 4th- century villa, 5), levelled much of it. The 13th- was finally ceded to Portugal in
but excavations have revealed century castle survived, only to 1295. Continued disputes have
the baths of a 2nd-century be blown up by the Spanish in left the legacy of a chain of
1707 – just a skeletal watchtowers and a peppering of
keep and wall remain. fortresses across these hills. One
The Lagar de Varas of the most remote, the deserted
do Fojo, a former 19th- fort at Noudar, was built in 1346,
century olive press, is now but even in this isolated corner,
a museum displaying a evidence of pre-Roman
series of traditional habitation has been uncovered.
presses, some dating On the border at Barrancos,
from the 14th century. an incomprehensible mix of
Spanish and Portuguese is
E Lagar de Varas do Fojo spoken. A speciality here is the
Tel 285 253 978. barrancos ham made from
View over Moura’s quaint Moorish quarter Open Tue–Sun. the local black pigs.
ALENTEJO  317
16th-century examples in the

Love Letters of a Heartsick Nun cloister. Upstairs is a section on
Lettres Portugaises, published in French in local archaeology and the
1669, are celebrated for their lyric beauty. romantic “Mariana’s window”.
They are the poignant letters of a nun whose
French lover deserted her: she was Mariana + Torre de Menagem
Alcoforado, born in Beja in 1640; he was the Largo do Lidador. Tel 284 311 913.
Comte de Saint-Léger, later Marquis de Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
Chamilly, fighting in the Restoration wars 25 Dec. &
with Spain. The true authorship of the five The unmistakable landmark of
letters may be in doubt, but the story of
Mariana’s window the castle keep marks the
the lovelorn nun endures – Matisse even
northwest limit of the old quar-
painted her imaginary portrait. Sentimental visitors to the convent
of Nossa Senhora da Conceição (now the Museu Regional) in Beja ter. Built by King Dinis in the late
still sigh over “Mariana’s window”. 1200s, it towers 36 m (118 ft)
high. The 183-step climb up
through its three storeys provides
d Beja Beja’s old town, an area of rewarding views from the top.
narrow, often cobbled, streets,
Road map D6. * 35,000. £ @
n Castle (284 311 913). ( Sat.
stretches from the castle keep
southeast to the 13th-century
Capital of the Baixo (lower) convent of São Francisco, now a
Alentejo, Beja is a city of historic superb pousada (see p393).
and social importance. It is also a
major centre for the production of E Museu Regional Rainha
wines and the harvesting of olives Dona Leonor
and cork, which are grown on the Largo da Conceição. Tel 284 323 351.
Bejan plains. The area has a noted Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:15pm
wine and rural tourism industry. Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. &
The town became a regional ∑ museuregionaldebeja.pt
capital under Julius Caesar, who In the heart of the old town, the
called it Pax Julia after the peace former Convento de Nossa
made here with the Lusitani (see Senhora da Conceição houses
p44). The Praça da República marks the regional museum. A little Beja’s landmark castle keep
the site of the Roman forum. The marble ossuary near the entrance
Moors arrived in AD 711, giving contains the bones of the con- E Núcleo Visigótico
the town its present name and a vent’s first abbess. Exhibits are Largo de Santo Amaro. Tel 284 321 465.
lively, poetic culture until they mostly paintings and coats of Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:15pm Tue–
were forced out in 1162. arms, but the building itself is a Sun. Closed pub hols. & joint ticket
Beja has been the scene of remarkable blend of architec- with Museu Regional.
struggles against oppressive tural styles, with a Gothic church Beyond the castle keep stands
regimes. In 1808, occupying portal, Manueline windows and Beja’s oldest church, Santo Amaro,
French troops massacred inhabi- a dazzling Baroque chapel. Its its columns surviving from its
tants and sacked the city, and in azulejos are especially beautiful, Visigothic origins. The church
1962, during the Salazar regime the most notable being the now houses the Museu Regional’s
(see pp60 –61), General Delgado Hispanic-Arab tiles in the collection of relics from this early
led an unsuccessful uprising here. chapterhouse and the early period of Portugal’s history.
R Igreja Nossa Senhora dos

Prazeres & Museu Episcopal
Largo dos Prazeres 4. Tel 284 320 918.
Open 10am–12:30pm & 2:30–6pm
Wed –Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
25 Dec. &
The sumptuous interior of the
17th-century Baroque Igreja Nossa
Senhora dos Prazeres features
azulejo tiles and carved, gilded
and painted woodwork, including
a series of extraordinary panels by
António de Oliveira Bernardes.
The ceiling has a fresco depicting
scenes from the life of Our Lady.
The adjacent Museu Episcopal
Chapterhouse of the former convent, now Beja’s Museu Regional is dedicated to sacred art.
Environs E Casa Vasco da Gama

On a hill just to the east of Castle of Sines. Tel 269 632 237. Open
Santiago do Cacém lies the site 10am–1pm & 2–5pm Tue–Sun (summer:
of the Roman city of Miróbriga. 2:30–6pm). Closed public hols.
Excavations, have uncovered a
forum, two temples, thermal Environs
baths and a circus which had North and south of Sines are
seating for 25,000 spectators. attractive beaches. About 10 km
(6 miles) south, Porto Covo is a
T Miróbriga
picturesque village with an old fort
Signposted off N121. Tel 269 818 460.
above a cove beach. A little further
Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm Tue–
to the south and a short boat ride
Sun. Closed public hols. &
offshore is the low hump of Ilha
do Pessegueiro, Peach Tree Island.
Treeless and windswept, with the
Igreja Matriz, Santiago do Cacém g Sines ruins of a fort, the little island is
Road map C6. * 26,000. g @
rather less romantic than it sounds.
f Santiago do n inside the castle (269 632 237). More appealing are two sea-
Cacém ( 1st Thu of month. blue lagoons, the Lagoa de
Santo André and Lagoa de
Road map C6. * 7,000. @ The birthplace of Vasco da Melides nature reserves, set in a
n Parque da Quinta do Chafariz
Gama (see p110) is now a major long stretch of sandy coast about
(269 826 696). ( 2nd Mon of
industrial port and tanker 20 km (12 miles) north of Sines.
month. ∑ rotavicentina.com
terminal ringed with refinery Camping within the reserves is
Santiago do Cacém’s Moorish pipelines. Once past this heavy prohibited and the area is
castle was rebuilt in 1157 by the industrial zone, visitors reach patrolled by park rangers.
Templars (see pp190–91). Its walls, the old town with its
which enclose the cemetery of popular sandy beach,
the adjacent 13th-century Igreja but it is not always
Matriz, afford great views of the possible to escape the
Serra de Grândola. The church is haze of pollution.
the starting point of the 350-km A prominent land-
(217-mile) Rota Vicentina foot- mark above the beach is
path to Cabo de São Vicente the modest medieval
(see p325). The attractive main castle, restored in the
square is enhanced by elegant 16th century by King Whitewashed houses with the traditional blue trim at
18th-century mansions. Manuel. It was here that Porto Covo, south of Sines
The Museu Municipal still Vasco da Gama, son of
retains some cells from its days the alcaide-mor, or
h Vila Nova de
as a Salazarist prison (see p60). mayor, is reputed to have been
Exhibits here include Roman born in 1469. A multimedia Milfontes
finds from nearby Miróbriga. museum dedicated to the great Road map C6. * 11,000. @ n Rua
navigator, the Casa Vasco da António Mantas (283 996 599). (
E Museu Municipal Gama, is housed in the castle 2nd & 4th Sat of month in Brunheiras.
Largo do Município. Tel 269 827 375. keep. A modern statue of Vasco
Open 10am–noon & 2–4:30pm Tue– da Gama stands looking out One of the loveliest places on
Fri, noon–6pm Sat. Closed public hols. over the bay. Portugal’s west coast is where
the River Mira meets the sea. The
popular resort of Vila Nova de
Milfontes, on the sleepy estuary,
is low key and unassuming, but
offers many places to stay. Its small
castle overlooking the bay once
defended the coast from pirates.
In contrast to the quiet river are
the pretty beaches with their
crashing waves, a major summer
attraction, especially with surfers.
Environs
To the south about 10 km
(6 miles) is the unspoiled
beach of Almograve, backed
The calm, sunny face of the sandy coast near Vila Nova de Milfontes by impressive cliffs.
ALENTEJO  319
j Zambujeira do
Mar
Road map C7. * 1,000. @
n Rua da Escola (283 961 144).
∑ sudoeste.meo.pt
A narrow strip of sheltered land

divides the Alentejo plains from
the bracing Atlantic. Here lies the
solitary village of Zambujeira do
Mar, the whiteness of its gorgeous
beach enhanced by the dark
backdrop of high basalt cliffs. The
annual Festival Meo Sudoeste,
usually held in the second week in
August at Herdade da Casa Branca,
just outside the village, draws
music lovers from all over Europe.
k Mértola
Road map D6. * 1,200. @ n Rua da
Igreja 1 (286 610 109). Open Jul–Sep:
9:30am–12:30pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun; Mértola’s unusual Moorish-style church, high above the River Guadiana
Sep–Jun: 9am–12:30 & 2–5:30pm
Tue–Sun. & ( 1st Thu of month. Moors. Roman artifacts can be walls was formerly a mosque,
seen at the Museu de Mértola with a five-nave layout, four
Pretty, whitewashed Mértola is beneath the exhibition halls. horseshoe arches and a mihrab
of historical interest as this small The post-Roman period is on or prayer niche.
town is a vila museu, a museum display in the Núcleo Visigótico Overlooking the town is a
site. It has various discoveries and in an early Christian basilica ruined hilltop castle, with its
from different eras exhibited in whose ruins adjoin the Roman keep of 1292, offering lovely
núcleos, or areas where a lots of road to Beja (see p317). The views of the river valley. The
treasures from a particular influence bestowed by several Alcácova do Castelo, the
period can be found. The tourist centuries of Moorish domination excavated ruins of a Moorish
office has details of each núcleo. is seen in the museum’s Núcleo village and earlier Roman cistern
Mértola dates back to the Islâmico which houses one of are within the grounds.
Phoenicians, who created a the country’s best collections
thriving inland port here, later of Portuguese Islamic art. The Environs
enjoyed by the Romans and the Igreja Matriz below the Moorish The copper mines at Minas de São
Domingos, 16 km (10 miles) to
the east, were the main employer
The Versatility of Cork in the area from 1858 to 1965,
Groves of evergreen cork oak (Quercus suber) provide the Alentejo when the vein was exhausted.
with welcome shade and a thriving industry. It was Dom Pérignon, An English company ran the
the wine-making monk, who in mine under the harshest con-
the 17th century revived the use ditions, with miners’ families living
of cork as a tasteless, odourless in one windowless room. The
seal for wine. Portugal, the village’s population is about 700,
world’s largest cork producer, has and the ghost-town atmosphere
almost 7,000 sq km (2,700 sq is relieved only by a reservoir
miles) under cultivation and
and surrounding lush greenery.
turns out some 30 million corks a
Around Mértola, 600 sq km
day. In rural areas, this versatile
bark is fashioned into waterproof, (230 sq miles) of the wild Guadiana
heatproof food containers and valley is a Parque Natural. Bird-
these decorated boxes are a watching and nature tour com-
traditional craft of the Alentejo. panies include Birdwatch in
Harvesting cork is a skilled Alentejo (www.bird watching
task. Mature trees, stripped in alentejo.com) and Birding in
summer every ten years or so, Portugal (www.birdingin
reveal a raw red undercoat until The glowing red of a stripped tree in an portugal.com), who can arrange
their new bark grows. Alentejan cork grove trips to spot species like the
rare Spanish imperial eagle.
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL  321
ALGARVE
Enclosed by ranges of hills to the north, the Algarve has a
climate, culture and scenery very different from the rest of
Portugal. Its stunning coastline and year-round mild
weather, maintained by warm sea and air currents from
nearby North Africa, make it one of the most popular
holiday destinations in southern Europe.
The Algarve’s fertile soil and strategic The earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7) had
headlands and rivers have attracted visitors its epicentre just south of Lagos, then the
since the time of the Phoenicians. Five region’s capital. Virtually all the towns and
centuries of Arab rule, from AD 711, left a villages were destroyed or badly damaged,
legacy that is still visible in the region’s which explains why very few buildings in
architecture, lattice chimneys, azulejos, the region predate this period.
orange groves and almond trees. Place Since the 1960s, when Faro airport was
names beginning with Al are also of Moorish opened, international tourism has replaced
origin; Al-Gharb (“the West”) denoted agriculture and fishing as the region’s main
the western edge of the Islamic empire. industry. A few stretches of the south-
When the Algarve was reclaimed by the western seashore are now cluttered with
Christians in 1249, the Portuguese rulers high-rise complexes catering for the yearly
designated themselves kings “of Portugal influx of tourists. However, the whole
and of the Algarves”, emphasizing the western seaboard exposed to the Atlantic
region’s separateness from the rest of and the lagoons east of Faro have been
the country. It was the Algarve, however, less affected by development. Trips inland,
that shot Portugal to prominence in the to the pretty whitewashed village of Alte
15th century, when Henry the Navigator or the border town of Alcoutim in the
(see p53) is said to have set up a school of east, provide a welcome reminder that,
navigation at Sagres, and launched the age in places, the Algarve’s rural way of life
of exploration from these southern shores. continues virtually uninterrupted.
Beautiful staircase leading up to the Pousada de Faro-Palácio in Estoi (see p331)

Sightseeing boats at Ponta da Piedade, near Lagos
Exploring the Algarve

The Algarve is a delight to visit all year round.
In summer, the coast between Faro and Lagos
attracts thousands of visitors; but even near
popular resorts such as Albufeira and Portimão
it is possible to escape the crowds. Though
often bypassed, Faro itself is well worth a visit.
Picturesque Tavira is an ideal centre for the
lagoons of the eastern Algarve, while from
Lagos you can reach the beaches on the rugged
southwest coast. Inland, the hillside villages are
Wooded slopes around the vast lake created by the Bravura
peaceful, with lush vegetation, both wild and dam, north of Lagos
cultivated. The wooded Serra de Monchique is an
area of outstanding beauty offering lovely walks.
Praia de Odemira
Odeceixe
Odeceixe
Beja
R i b e i ra
de
Carriagem
Se
São Marcos Baião

Rogil
i xe
Foz do Farelo da Serra Velho

Praia de
Monte Clérigo
ca
Marmelete e lou
ALJEZUR MONCHIQUE Od rade
de de A
SERRA DE MONCHIQ U E a Barragem do ira
be
ir
Praia de Caldas de Funcho Ri

be
Arrifana Casais
Ri
Alfambras Monchique
São Bartolomeu
de Messines
Barragem
do Arade Portela
Barragem da de Messines
Bravura
o
Vidigal Porto de
Cá
Bordeira
do Lagos
de
a
rr o
Carrapateira Se haç SILVES
in Tunes
Esp Bensafrim
Algoz
Pedralva PORTIMÃO
Odiáxere Lagoa
ALVOR Ferragudo Alcantarilha Ferreiras
Praia de
Castelejo Praia da
Budens LAGOS Rocha
VILA DO Luz Carvoeiro Senhora
da Rocha
ALBUFEIRA
BISPO Figueira Burgau
0 kilometres 10
CABO DE SÃO VICENTE 5
0 miles
SAGRES
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Brightly painted fishing boats in the harbour at Sagres

ALGARVE  323
Sights at a Glance
1 Aljezur t Loulé
2 Serra de Monchique y Estoi
3 Monchique u Faro pp332–34
4 Vila do Bispo i Olhão
5 Cabo de São Vicente o Parque Natural da
6 Sagres Ria Formosa
7 Lagos p Tavira
8 Alvor a Cacela Velha
9 Portimão s Vila Real Santo António
0 Silves d Castro Marim
q Albufeira f Alcoutim
w Alte
e Vilamoura
r Almancil Mértola
Afonso
One of the delightful sandy coves near Albufeira Vicente
ão Giões
a sc ALCOUTIM
d eV
eira Pereiro
Rib
Martim Longo
Beja Barrada Balurco da Baixo
Ri
pana Guerreiros do Rio
da Fou
o Gua di a na
eira Vaqueiro
Rib
Corte João Furnazinhas
Ameixial
Marques Foz de Odeleite
Cachopo
eite
a de Odel Odeleite
Se
r ra Ribeir
do
Aguas Ca Azinhal
lde Peralva
Frias i rã o
Feiteira
Cortelha Sevilla
Benafim Água dos Fusos
Javali
ALTE Barranco Velho CASTRO MARIM
Estorninhos
Querença
Aldeia da Tôr VILA REAL DE
Palheirinhos SANTO ANTÓNIO
FARO
Alportel
São Brás Santa Monte
de Alportel Catarina Conceição Gordo
LOULÉ Cabanas CACELA
Boliqueime
Santa Bárbara Pereiro Santo TAVIRA VELHA
de Nexe Estêvão
Luz A
VILAMOURA ALMANCIL ESTÓI OS
Moncarapacho
O RM
Ilha de
Quarteira São João da Pechão F Tavira
Venda Fuseta
A
OLHÃO RI
Quinta do Lago Ilha de
D A Armona
FARO A L
NA TUR
Praia de P A R Q U E Ilha de
Faro Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
Getting Around
The tolled A22 (IP1) runs from Lagos to Spain
and has relieved the N125, which can become
congested in summer. Roads branch off to
beaches, coastal towns and inland villages.
A frequent but slow rail service connects
the main towns, but stations are sometimes
far from the centre. Reliable buses link
coastal resorts and inland towns, though Whitewashed house and lattice-work
progress can be slow. chimney in Cacela Velha
for concern. This highly

flammable species is one of the
reasons for the serious fires
that break out all too often in
the Serra.
The 30-km (19-mile) run
along the N267 from Nave, just
below Monchique, to Aljezur
in the west, leads through a
beautiful part of the Serra. The
landscape is a mixture of woods
and moorland, kept fertile by
an abundant water supply.
Cork oak grows here, home
to the nuthatch and lesser-
Commanding view of the countryside from Aljezur’s Moorish castle spotted woodpecker.
1 Aljezur currents of the Atlantic, Praia

Road map 7C. * 7,000. @
de Arrifana 10 km (6 miles)
n 25 de Abril 62 (282 998 229). southwest, and Praia de Monte
( 3rd Mon of month. Clérigo, 8 km (5 miles) north-
west, are sandy, sweeping
The small village of Aljezur is beaches backed by cliffs. On
overlooked by a 10th-century the Alentejo border, Praia de
Moorish castle, reached via Odeceixe is a sheltered cove
the old quarter. Although in that is popular with surfers.
ruins, a cistern and towers
remain, and there are splendid
views towards the Serra 2 Serra de
de Monchique. Monchique
Aljezur’s Igreja Matriz, much
Road map 7C. @ Monchique.
rebuilt after the earthquake of n Monchique (282 911 189).
1755 (see pp66–7), has a fine
Neo-Classical altarpiece. Dating Providing shelter from the Manueline portal of the Igreja Matriz
from about 1809, it was prob- north, this volcanic mountain in Monchique
ably executed in the workshop range helps to ensure the mild
of José da Costa of Faro. southern climate of the Algarve. 3 Monchique
The highest point is Fóia at Road map 7C. * 7,000. @
Environs 902 m (2,959 ft). This, however, n Largo de São Sebastião (282 911
From Aljezur, the wild and is less pleasantly wooded than 189). ( 2nd Fri of month.
deserted beaches of the Picota, which, at 773 m (2,536 ft),
Algarve’s west coast are easily is the second-highest peak. An The small market town of
explored, although a car is impressive 4-km (2-mile) walk Monchique is primarily famous
essential. Open to the strong to this peak from Monchique for its altitude, 458 m
passes among chestnut (1,500 ft), and consequently
trees and fields of wild spectacular views. It is also
flowers. A spectacular known for its wooden handi-
panorama sweeps crafts, particularly the folding
down to the Ponta de chairs the design of which
Sagres (see p326) and dates back to Roman times.
there are stunning views The 16th-century Igreja
of the rest of the range. Matriz, on the cobbled Rua da
Whether you explore Igreja behind the main square,
the Serra on foot or by has an impressive Manueline
car, there is a wonderful doorway whose knotted
variety of vegetation columns end in unusual pin-
to enjoy with rhododen- nacles. Above the town is the
dron, mimosa, chestnut, ruined monastery of Nossa
pine, cork oak and Senhora do Desterro. This
patches of terraced Franciscan house, founded in
fertile land in the valleys. 1632 by Dom Pero da Silva, is
The increased planting now only a shell but it is worth
The mountains of the Serra de Monchique rising above of fast-growing eucalyp- visiting for the stunning views
meadows of wild flowers tus trees has given cause across to the peak of Picota.
ALGARVE  325
Environs
A delightful spa, 6 km (4 miles)
south, Caldas de Monchique is
set in the foothills of the Serra in
peaceful wooded surroundings.
The hot, curative waters have
attracted the ailing since Roman
times, and even though João II
died soon after taking them in
1495, their reputation has
remained undiminished. In the
summer, people come to be
treated for skin, digestive and
rheumatic complaints. As well Promontory of Cabo de São Vicente jutting into the Atlantic Ocean
as the spring water, bars here
offer local firewater, medronho. Castelejo, 5 km (3 miles) to the p53) was also reputed to have
The shady main square has west, is accessible by a dirt road lived here, but, if so, all traces
a large, attractive handicraft that winds up from the village of his Vila do Infante have dis
centre and there are some over moorland. The intrepid can appeared. A number of important
pretty walks in the woods. turn off this track for the 6km naval battles have taken place
(4mile) journey to Torre de off the Cape, including the
Aspa, an obelisk at 156 m defeat of a Spanish fleet in 1797
4 Vila do Bispo (512 ft) marking the spot for by the British admirals Jervis
spectacular views over the and Nelson.
Road map 7C. * 7,000. @ n
ocean. The road is quite rough, Since 1988 the coast from Sines
Sagres (282 624 873). ( 1st Thu of
month. Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe: so it is advisable to walk the last in the north to Burgau in the east
Open May–Sep: 10:30am–1pm (from 2 km (1 mile). The 14thcentury has been made a nature reserve,
9am Apr–Oct), 2–6:30pm Tue–Sun (till Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe providing important nesting
5:30pm Apr–Oct). & near Raposeira is where Henry grounds for Bonelli’s eagle, kestrel,
the Navigator prayed. white stork, heron and numer
The grand name of “The Bishop’s ous other bird species. There is
Town” today refers to a peaceful also a colony of sea otters.
village, rather remote in feel,
5 Cabo de São
which makes the crowds of cen
tral Algarve seem very far away. Vicente
It acquired its name in the 17th Road map 7C. @ to Sagres then taxi.
century when it was donated n Sagres (282 624 873).
to the see of Faro. The town’s
parish church, Nossa Senhora In the Middle Ages, this
da Conceição, has a delightful windblown cape at the extreme
interior decorated with 18th southwest of Europe was
century azulejos from the floor believed to be the end of the Flowered Narcissus, native to the
up to the painted ceiling, and world. The Romans called it the Algarve region
an altarpiece dating from 1715. Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred
Promontory), and today, with its Flowers of the
Environs 60m (200ft) cliffs fronting the Western Algarve
The beaches in the area are Atlantic, it still presents a most The remote headlands of Cabo
remote and unspoiled. Praia do aweinspiring aspect. The ocean de São Vicente and Sagres are
waves have created long, sandy renowned in botanical circles
beaches and carved deep caves for their flowers, which put
into the cliffs. on a strikingly colourful
Since the 15th century, Cabo and aromatic display from
de São Vicente has been an February to May. The climate,
important reference point for underlying rock and compar
shipping, and its present light ative isolation of these
house has a 95km (60mile) headlands have given an
range, said to be the most intriguing, stunted appearance
powerful in Europe. For even to the local vegetation. There
is a great array of different
longer it has had religious
species, including cistuses,
associations, and its name arises squills, an endemic sea pink,
from the legend that the body junipers, lavenders, narcissi,
of St Vincent was washed milkvetches and many other
Baroque altarpiece inside Nossa Senhora da ashore here in the 4th century. magnificent plants.
Conceição, Vila do Bispo Prince Henry the Navigator (see
extended in the 16th century.

A well-preserved section and
archway can be seen near Rua
do Castelo dos Governadores,
where there is a monument to
the navigator Gil Eanes.
The discoveries of the 15th
century (see pp52–3), pioneered
by Henry the Navigator, whose
statue gazes scowlingly out
to sea, turned Lagos into an
The enormous Rosa dos Ventos wind compass on Ponta de Sagres important naval centre. At the
same time a most deplorable
6 Sagres Environs period of history began, with
Road map 7C. * 3,500. @ n Rua
The town is also within easy the first slaves brought back
Comandante Matoso (282 624 873). reach of many superb beaches. from the Sahara in 1441 by
( 1st Fri of month. Some, such as Telheiro, Henry’s explorer Nuno Tristão.
9 km (6 miles) west of The site of the first slave
The small town of Sagres Sagres, and Ponta Ruiva market in Europe is marked by
has little to offer except a 2 km (1 mile) further a plaque under the arcades on
picturesque harbour. Essentially up the west coast, are Rua da Senhora da Graça.
it is a good base from which to only accessible by car. The city was the capital of
explore the superb beaches (see Nearer to Sagres, the Algarve from 1576–
p292) and isolated peninsula Beliche is surprisingly 1756. Extensive damage
west of the town. Henry the sheltered, Tonel, on was caused by the earth-
Navigator (see p53) built a the tip of the quake of 1755 (see pp66–
fortress on this windswept promontory, has 7), so today the centre
promontory and, according to wonderful surf and consists primarily of pretty
tradition, a school of navigation Martinhal, 1 km (half a 18th- and 19th-century
and a shipyard. From here he mile) east, has a water São Gonçalo in buildings. The citizens of
realized his dream “to see what sports school offering Santa Maria, Lagos Lagos continue to make
lay beyond the Canaries and water-skiing, surfing their living from fishing,
Cape Bojador… and attempt and windsurfing. which helps the town to retain
the discovery of things hidden a character independent of the
from men”. From 1419–60, he tourist trade.
poured his energy and the re- 7 Lagos The smart marina on the east
venues of the Order of Christ Road map 7C. * 16,000. £ @
side of town provides the first
(see p191), of which he was n Praça Gile Eanes (282 763 031). safe anchorage on the south
master, into building caravels ( 1st Sat of month. coast for boats coming in from
and sending his fear-stricken the Atlantic.
sailors into unknown waters. Set on one of the largest bays
In 1434 Gil Eanes of Lagos in the Algarve, Lagos is an + Forte Ponta da Bandeira
was the first sailor to round the attractive, bustling town. In the Avenida dos Descobrimentos. Tel 282
dreaded Cape Bojador, in the 8th century it was conquered 761 410. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
region of Western Sahara. With by the Arabs, who left behind Closed public hols. &
this feat, the west coast of Africa fortifications that were On the seafront stands the
was opened up for exploration 17th-century fortress which
(see pp52–3) and Portugal defended the entrance to the
poised for expansion. harbour. Its imposing ramparts
Little remains of Prince afford far-reaching views over
Henry’s original fortress: the the town and the bay.
walls that can be seen today are
part of a 17th-century fort. Still R Santa Maria
visible is the giant pebble wind Praça Infante Dom Henrique. Tel 282
compass, the Rosa dos Ventos, 762 723. Open daily. 7 8
43 m (141 ft) in diameter, said The parish church of Lagos
to have been used by Henry. originated in the 16th century,
The simple chapel of Nossa and still retains a Renaissance
Senhora da Graça was also doorway. Of local interest is a
built by him. The whole site, statue of São Gonçalo of Lagos,
looking across to Cabo de São a fisherman’s son born in 1360
Vicente and out towards the who became an Augustinian
open Atlantic, is exhilarating Moorish archway leading onto Avenida dos monk, preacher and composer
and atmospheric. Descobrimentos, Lagos of religious music.
ALGARVE  327
R Santo António
Rua General Alberto Silveira: entry
via the Museu Municipal Dr José
Formosinho. Tel 282 762 301. Open
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols.
This 18th-century church is
an Algarvian jewel. The lower
section of the walls is covered
in blue and white azulejos, the
rest in carved, gilded and
painted woodwork, an inspira-
tional and riotous example of
Baroque carving. Cherubs,
beasts, flowers and scenes of
hunting and fishing, surround
eight panel paintings of mira-
cles performed by St Antony.
A statue of the saint stands
above the altar, surrounded by Ochre sandstone rocks on the sheltered beach of Praia de Dona Ana, Lagos
gilded pillars and arches adorned
with angels and vines. St Antony facsimile of the 1504 town reservoir. It is peaceful and
was patron and honorary colonel- charter. The neighbouring Santo especially picturesque seen
in-chief of the local regiment António church forms part of from a viewpoint high up.
and, according to tradition, this the museum.
statue accompanied it on various
campaigns during the Peninsular Environs 8 Alvor
War (1808–11) (see p58). The promontory, called the Road map 7C. * 5,000. £ @ n
Near the altar is the grave of Ponta da Piedade, sheltering Rua Dr Afonso Costa 51 (282 457 540).
Hugh Beatty, an Irish colonel the bay of Lagos to the south
who commanded the Lagos has a series of wonderful rock This pretty fishing town of white
regiment during the 17th- formations, caves and calm, houses is popular with holiday-
century wars with Spain. He transparent waters. Accessible makers, but in low season retains
died here in 1709 and his motto by road and sea, and most spec- its charm. It was a Roman port,
“Non vi sed arte” (Not with force tacular at sunset, this area is and later the Moorish town of
but with skill) adorns the tomb. not to be missed. The prettiest Al-Bur. By the 16th century it
beach is Praia de Dona Ana, was again a prosperous town,
E Museu Municipal Dr José 25 minutes’ walk from the but it suffered much damage in
Formosinho centre of town, but Praia do the earthquake of 1755. The
Rua General Alberto Silveira. Camilo, further round to the tip town was rebuilt with stone
Tel 282 762 301. Open 10am–5:30pm of the promontory, may be less from the Moorish castle, so little
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & crowded. The long Meia Praia of that fortress remains.
This eclectic ethnographic stretches for 4 km (2 miles) east At the top of the town the
museum displays local handi- of Lagos; a regular bus service 16th-century church, Divino
crafts and artifacts, traditional leaves from the centre of town. Salvador, has a Manueline portal
costumes and an impressive A 10-km (6-mile) drive due carved with foliage, lions and
Roman mosaic, the Opus north of Lagos leads to the dragons. The outermost arch is
Vermiculatum. Also look for the huge Barragem de Bravura an octopus tentacle.
The attractive, whitewashed fishing town of Alvor

14th-century origins are ment. The Romans built a castle

still visible in the portico here, but it was under the Arabs
with its carved capitals. that the city flourished, becoming
Inside, there are 17th- the Moorish capital, Xelb. In the
and 18th- century azulejo mid-12th century the Arab geo-
panels. The waterfront grapher Idrisi praised its beauty
is lively and restaurants and its “delicious, magnificent”
serve fresh fish. The figs. Silves was renowned as a
award-winning Museu centre of culture in Moorish
de Portimão, housed in a Al-Gharb until the Knights of
former canning factory, is Santiago took the city in 1242.
located on the southern Today, the red walls of the
end of the esplanade. castle stand out against the sky-
Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Portimão line. The nearby Casa da Cultura
E Museu de Portimão Islâmica e Mediterrânica houses
9 Portimão Rua D Carlos, Zona Ribeirinha. local exhibitions and events.
Tel 282 406 230/265. Open Tue–Sun.
Road map 7C. * 40,000. £ @ ∑ museudeportimao.pt E Casa da Cultura Islâmica
n Teatro Municipal de Portimão,
e Mediterrânica
Largo 1° de Dezembro (282 402 487).
( 1st Mon of month. Environs Largo da República. Tel 282 442 096.
Just 3 km (2 miles) south lies Open Tue–Fri, Sat pm.
The Algarve’s second-largest Portimão’s touristic neigh- 8 for groups only.
city, Portimão has plenty of bour, Praia da Rocha, a series of
character and a long history as a sandy coves among protruding + Castle
port. The Romans settled here, red and ochre rocks. At its east Castelo de Silves. Tel 282 445 624.
attracted by the natural harbour end is the 16th-century Open Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm; Oct–Jun:
on the estuary of the Rio Arade. Fortaleza de Santa Catarina, 9am–5:30pm daily. & 7 (garden only).
Portimão’s northern outskirts with superb beach views, The red sandstone castle dates
consist of commercial and resi- and below is Portimão Marina. back mainly to Moorish times,
dential areas.. Beyond the The Autódromo Internacional though it has done duty as a
municipality is the historic 18th- do Algarve (www.autodro Christian fortress and a jail. It
century town centre which has moalgarve.com) is located was the site of the Palace of the
excellent shopping, as well as a 8 km (6 miles) away, north of Verandahs, abode of Al-Mu’tamid
large, bustling market. The the city centre. from 1053 when he was ruler
picturesque riverfront is nearby. of Seville and Wali of Al-Gharb.
The centre lies around the There are superb views of
pedestrianized Rua Vasco da 0 Silves the town and countryside
Gama, with shops specializing in from the massive, polygonal
Road map 7C. * 10,000. £ @
leather goods. Along Rua Diogo n Parque das Merendas (282 098
ramparts. Inside, there are
Tomé, the church of Nossa 927). ( 3rd Mon of month. gardens and the impressive
Senhora da Conceição occupies vaulted Moorish Cisterna da
a low hill. Rebuilt after the earth- Silves’s commanding position Moura Encantada (Cistern of the
quake of 1755 (see pp66–7), its made it the ideal fortified settle- Enchanted Moorish Girl).
The castle and town of Silves rising above a fertile valley of orange groves
ALGARVE  329
R Sé
Largo da Sé. Open 9am–1pm &
2–6pm Mon–Fri; 9am–1pm Sat.
Closed public hols. &
Built on the site of a mosque,
the cathedral dates from the
13th century. In the chancel, light
falls from lovely double windows
with stained-glass borders, on a
jasper statue of Nossa Senhora
da Conceição, believed to date
from the 14th century.
Opposite the Sé, the 16th-
century Misericórdia church has
a Manueline side door and a
Renaissance altarpiece.
E Museu Arqueológico
Rua das Portas de Loulé 14. Tel 282
444 832. Open Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm; Colourful fishing boats on the beach at Albufeira
Oct–Jun: 9am–5:30pm daily. &
Set downhill from the cathedral, with North Africa. The Knights of Algarve. The approach from
the Municipal Museum was Santiago took it in the 13th the east along the N124 is the
opened in 1990. Its exhibits century, but the consequent most picturesque, with sweeping
include Stone and Iron Age tools, loss of trade almost ruined it. In views of rolling hills. The focus
sculpted Roman capitals, surgical 1833 it was set on fire by sup- of this steep, white village is
instruments from the 5th–7th porters of Dom Miguel during the 16th-century Nossa Senhora
centuries, a 13th-century the War of the Two Brothers da Assunção, which has a
anchor and items of 18th- (see p58). Manueline doorway and
century ceramics. The Museu Arqueo baptismal fonts, and a fine
museum is built lógico houses a gilded altarpiece celebrating
around a large Arab captivating collection the Assumption. The chapel of
well-cistern that was uncov- of Stone Age, Roman and São Sebastião has beautiful, rare
ered in 1980. The staircase Moorish artifacts, with the 16th-century Sevillian azulejos.
built into the structure Islamic-era silo as its high- About ten minutes’ walk from
descends 15 m (49 ft) to light. The church of São the church, and clearly marked,
the bottom of the well. Sebastião, on Praça Miguel is the River Alte, overhung with
Bombarda, has a Manueline trees, and a water source known
Environs doorway. Rua 5 de Outubro as the Fonte Grande. This leafy
One kilometre (half a mile) leads through a tunnel setting is ideal for picnicking. On
east of Silves is the Cruz Silves’s Cruz to the beach, east of the steep slopes, about 700 m
de Portugal, an ornate de Portugal which is the Praia dos (half a mile) from the village is a
16th-century granite Barcos where the mill (converted into a restaurant)
cross. This may have been given fishermen ply their trade. From and a 5-m (16-ft) high waterfall,
to the city by Manuel I, when João Praia de São Rafael, 2 km (1 mile) Queda do Vigário.
II’s body was transferred from west of Albufeira, to Praia da Oura
Silves Cathedral to Batalha (see due east, the area is punctuated
pp188–9). The faces are carved by small sandy coves set
with the Crucifixion and the between eroded ochre rocks.
Descent from the Cross.
E Museu Arqueológico
Praca da Republica 1. Tel 289 599 508.
q Albufeira Open Jul–Aug: 9:30am–12:30pm &
1:30–5:30pm Tue, Sat & Sun, 9:30am–
Road map 7C. * 31,000. £ @ 5:30pm Wed–Fri, 2–10pm Thur & Fri.
n Rua 5 de Outubro (289 585 279).
( 1st & 3rd Tue of month.
Once a charming fishing town w Alte

overlooking a sheltered beach, Road map 7C. * 500. £ @
this is now the tourist capital of n Rua Condes de Alte (289 478 060).
the Algarve. The Romans liked it, ( 3rd Thu of month.
but it was under Al-Buhar (The
Castle on the Sea) that brought Perched on a hill, Alte is one One of many filigree chimneys that adorn
prosperity, as Albufeira traded of the prettiest villages of the the rooftops of Alte
e Vilamoura
Road map C7. * 9,000. @ n Praça
do Mar, Quarteira (289 389 209).
The coast between Faro and

Lagos has effectively become a
strip of villa complexes and high-
rise hotels. Vilamoura is a prime
example of this kind of develop-
ment and is set to become Europe’s
largest leisure complex. Its 16 sq
km (6 miles) encompass four golf
courses, tennis courts, a riding
school, fishing and shooting
facilities, and sports complexes.
There is even a small landing strip.
Its many hotels and apartment 18th-century tile panels and gilded altar in São Lourenço, Almancil
blocks are still on the rise, and
the already well-established r Almancil trompe-l’oeil effects of excep-
complex is still under construction. Road map D7. * 2,000. £ @ n
tional quality. The last tiles
The focal point is the large Rua de Vale (289 400 860). ( 1st & were put in place in 1730.
marina, which bristles with 4th Sun of month, antiques 2nd Sun. The altarpiece, dated around
powerboats and is fronted by 1735, was the work of Manuel
restaurants, cafés and shops. It Outside the undistinguished Martins and was gilded by
makes a diverting excursion, town of Almancil lies one of the leading local painters. Aston-
attracting many Portuguese Algarve’s gems, the 18th-century ishingly, the 1755 earthquake
visitors, including Lisbon’s jet Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço. (see pp66–7) only dislodged
set. Due east is the crowded Its interior is an outstanding five tiles from the vault.
Praia da Marina. You can also masterpiece of decoration in Today, Almancil houses a
visit the nearby Roman ruins of azulejo panels. The church was large community of British
Cerro da Vila, which date from commissioned by local expats, and is noted for its
the 1st century AD and include inhabitants in gratitude to St property agents and holiday
a bath complex and a house Laurence, who answered their and construction-related shops
with mosaics depicting fish. prayers for water. and services. The town is also
The copious blue and white within striking distance of
T Cerro da Vila tiles were probably designed by some of the best restaurants
Avenida Cerro da Vila. Tel 289 312 153 master craftsmen in Lisbon and in the Algarve (see p411–13).
(museum). Open May–Oct: 10am– shipped down. They cover the
1pm & 4–9pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: cupola, the walls of the chancel,
9:30am–12:30pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun.
&∑ marinadevilamoura.com
nave, and nave vault, to stunning t Loulé
effect. The wall panels depict Road map D7. * 20,000. £ @
episodes from the life of n Avenida 25 de Abril (289 463 900).
St Laurence; on one side ( Sat.
of the altar the saint is
shown healing two blind Loulé is an attractive market
men, and on the other, town and thriving craft centre.
giving money to the poor. Its Moorish origins are still
The nave arches show visible in the bell tower of the
the saint conversing with church of São Clemente. The
Pope Sixtus II; arguing castle, on the north side of town,
for his Christian belief is also Moorish in origin, rebuilt
with the Roman Emperor in the 13th century. Remnants
Valerian; and refusing of the walls behind the castle
to give up his faith. The afford an overview of the town
story culminates in his and the many pretty filigree
martyrdom. In the last chimneys, typical of the Algarve.
panel on the right, in The heart of the town lies
which the saint is placed immediately south of Praça da
on a gridiron to be República and encompasses the
burned, an angel comforts busy, pink-domed market. On
him. The nave vault Saturdays the area is particularly
depicts the Coronation lively when gypsies run a simulta-
Luxury yachts and powerboats moored at the smart of St Laurence, and the neous outdoor market. From Rua
marina at Vilamoura cupola has decorative, 9 de Abril to the Igreja Matriz
ALGARVE  331
you can watch handicraft workers

carving wood, weaving hats,
making lace, decorating horse tackle
and painting pottery and tiles.
The 13th-century São Clemente,
on Largo da Silva, was badly
damaged in three earthquakes,
the last in 1969, but its triple
nave, defined by Gothic arches,
has been conserved. There are
two beautiful side chapels
dating from the early 16th
century. The Capela de Nossa
Senhora da Consolação is
decorated from floor to vault
with superb blue and white
azulejo panels, while the Capela
de São Brás, has a Manueline Pink Rococo façade of the Pousada de Faro-Palácio de Estoi
arch and a blue and gold
Baroque altarpiece. y Estoi Y Palace gardens
Another religious building Rua do Jardim. Tel 289 990 150.
Road map D7. * 4,300. @ n Faro
of note is the chapel of Nossa Open daily. 7
(289 803 604). ( 2nd Sun of month.
Senhora da Conceição, close to The gardens are part of the
Praça da República. Here, the The quiet village of Estoi has two pousada and can be visited.
Baroque altarpiece (1745) is notable sights, separated by a Dotted with orange trees and
complemented by scenes in short distance and about 1,800 palms, they continue the joyful
blue and white azulejos. Part of years. Just off the main square is Rococo spirit of the palace. The
the floor reveals Moorish found- the Pousada de Faro-Palácio de lower terrace has a blue and
ations. The chapel is located Estoi, an unashamedly pretty white tiled pavilion, inside which
near the Banhos Islâmicos, the Rococo pastiche. The palace was is a copy of Canova’s Three Graces.
13th-century ruins of an Islamic the brainchild of a local noble- The walled terrace above, the
bathhouse known as hammam man, who died soon after work Patamar da Casa do Presépio, has
de Al-’Ulyà. was begun in the mid-1840s. a large pavilion with stained-glass
Another wealthy local later windows, fountains adorned
Environs acquired the palace, and with nymphs and tiled niches.
The 16th-century, hilltop completed it in 1909. For the vast
chapel of Nossa Senhora da amount of money and energy T Milreu
Piedade, adorned with azulejo he expended on his new home, N2-6. Tel 289 997 823. Open May–Sep:
panels, lies 2 km (1 mile) west he was made Viscount of Estoi. 10:30am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun;
of Loulé. Behind it stands a The work was supervised by the Oct–Apr: 9:30am–1pm & 2–5pm.
modern white church of the architect Domingos da Silva Closed public hols. &
same name built to replace Meira, whose interest in sculpture A 10-minute walk downhill from
the old chapel but which never is evident everywhere. The the other end of the main square
became a popular place of palace underwent restoration of leads to the second major sight
worship. The spot also affords its interior, a feast of pastel and in Estoi: the Roman ruins of
spectacular views. stucco, and is now a pousada. Milreu, a complex that dates
from the 1st or 2nd century AD.
The buildings probably began
as a large farmhouse that was
converted in the 3rd century
into a luxurious villa, built
around a central courtyard.
Ebullient and well-preserved
mosaics of fish and other marine
creatures still adorn the walls
and floor of the baths, located
alongside the living quarters;
however, most portable
archaeological finds from this
complex are now housed in the
Museu Municipal in Faro (see
p333). The importance of the villa
is indicated by the remains of a
Roman temple ruins of Milreu in Estoi temple overlooking the site.
u Faro
Capital of the Algarve since 1756, Faro has been reborn
several times over the centuries – following invasion, fire
and earthquake. A prehistoric fishing village, it became an
important port and administrative centre under the Romans,
who named it Ossonoba. Captured from the Moors in 1249
by Afonso III, Faro prospered until 1596, when it was sacked
and burned by the Earl of Essex, favourite of Elizabeth I of
England. A new city rose from the ashes, only to be badly
damaged in the earthquake of 1755 (see pp66–7). Although
vestiges of the ancient city walls are still standing, the finest
buildings date mainly from the late 18th and 19th centuries.
medieval castle gate in the

19th century for the bishop, Azulejo crucifix in exterior chapel of Nossa
Dom Francisco Gomes do Senhora do Pé da Cruz
Avelar, who had taken it upon
himself to redesign the city in panels of stories from Genesis,
decline. The portico is originally such as the creation of the
Moorish, and a statue of St sun and stars. At the rear is an
Thomas Aquinas, patron saint interesting exterior chapel
of Faro, surveys the scene. or humilhadero.
At the heart of the Old City,
the Largo da Sé is a peaceful R Sé
square, lined with orange trees Largo da Sé. Open 10am–6pm (to 5pm
and flanked by the elegant Oct–May), 10am–1pm Sat. Closed
18th-century seminary and public hols. & bell tower.
Statue of Dom Francisco Gomes do Avelar in Paço Episcopal (bishop’s palace), The first Christian church here,
Largo da Sé still in use and closed to the built on the site of a mosque,
public. Just outside the walls, was all but destroyed in the
Exploring the Old City through another archway of attack by the English in 1596.
The centre of Faro is attractive Moorish origin, the Arco do The base of the bell tower, its
and easily explored on foot. It Repouso, is the 18th-century medieval doorway and two
fans out from the small harbour church of São Francisco, chapels survived, and long-term
to encompass the compact impressively decorated with reconstruction resulted in a
Old City to the southeast. Partly tiled scenes of the life of St mixture of Renaissance and
encircled by ancient walls, this is Francis. Further north is the Baroque styles.
reached via the Arco da Vila. The 17th-century Nossa Senhora By the 1640s a grander building
arch was built on the site of a do Pé da Cruz with fanciful oil had emerged, which included a
Orange trees in front of the 18th-century bishops’ palace along the Largo da Sé
ALGARVE  333
chancel decorated with azulejos VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

and the Capela de Nossa
Senhora dos Prazeres, decorated Practical Information
with ornate gilded woodcarving. Road map D7. * 55,000.
One of the cathedral’s most n Rua da Misericórdia
dashing and eccentric features (289 803 604). ( daily.
is the large 18th-century organ _ 7 Sep: Dia da Cidade.
decorated with Chinese motifs. Transport
Its range includes an echoing k 5 km (3 miles) SW. £ Largo da
horn and a nightingale’s song, Estação. @ Avenida da República.
and it has often been used by
leading European organists.
E Museu Marìtimo
E Museu Municipal Rua da Comunidade Lusiada.
Largo Dom Afonso III. Tel 289 897 400. Tel 289 894 990. Closed for
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–7pm Tue–Fri, renovation. &
11:30am–6pm Sat & Sun; Oct–May: This museum is housed in part
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10:30am–5pm of the harbour master’s building
Sat & Sun. Closed public hols. & 17th-century chancel of Faro’s Sé on the waterfront. Its small and
Housed in the former convent curious collection of maritime
of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, The collection contains exhibits centres on models of
founded for the Poor Clares by Roman, medieval and boats from the Age of Discovery
Dona Leonor, sister of Manuel I. Manueline stone carvings and (see pp50–53) onwards, including
Her emblem, a fishing net, statuary. However, the most the square-rigged nau, prototype
adorns the portico. attractive exhibit is a huge, of the galleon. One example is
A variety of local archaeo- Roman floor mosaic featuring Vasco da Gama’s São Gabriel, the
logical finds are displayed in a magnificently executed head flagship on his voyage to India
the museum, partly in the lovely of the god Neptune (3rd in 1498. There are also displays
two-storey Renaissance cloister century AD), found near the of traditional fishing methods
built by Afonso Pires in 1540. railway station. from the Algarve.
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Exploring Faro i Olhão

The lively centre of Faro along Road map D7. * 15,000. £ @
Rua de Santo António is a stylish, n Largo Sebastião Martins Mestre
pedestrianized area full of shops, 8A (289 713 936). ( daily (fish, fruit
bars and restaurants. Between and veg).
here and the Largo do Carmo are
some fine 18th-century buildings, Olhão has been involved in
such as the Palácio Bivarin. The fishing since the Middle Ages,
early morning market on Largo and today is one of the largest
de Sá Carneiro, to the north, fishing ports and tuna and
offers fresh produce, clothing sardine canning centres in the
and local crafts. From here, a Algarve. In 1808 the village was
brisk walk uphill to the Ermida elevated to the status of town
de Santo António do Alto brings after 17 of its fishermen crossed
a panorama of Faro with the sea the Atlantic Ocean to Rio de
and saltpans to the south. Sumptuous Baroque decoration of the main Janeiro, without charts, to bring
altarpiece in São Pedro the exiled King João VI the news
E Museu Regional that Napoleon’s troops had
Praça da Liberdade 2. Tel 289 878 238. R São Pedro been forced out of the country.
Open 10am–1:30pm, 2:30–6pm Tue– Largo de São Pedro. Olhão’s square, whitewashed
Fri. Closed public hols. & Tel 289 805 473. Open Mon–Sat. houses with their flat roof ter-
This ethnographic museum takes The parish church of Faro is races and box-like chimneys are
a nostalgic look at the Algarve’s dedicated to St Peter, patron reminiscent of Moorish archi-
traditional way of life showing saint of fishermen. Though tecture. The best view is from
ceramics, looms and decorative restored with Italianate columns the top of the bell tower of
horse tackle. Old photographs after the earthquake of 1755, the parish church, Nossa
document peasant farming much original Baroque decor- Senhora do Rosário, on Praça da
techniques, with their heavy ation has survived, including Restauração, built between
reliance on manpower, donkeys the main altarpiece (1689). 1681 and 1698 with donations
and oxen. The most charming Highlights include the chapel from the local fishermen. The
exhibit is the cart used by the of the Santíssimo Sacramento, custodian lets visitors through
last waterseller in Olhão, in with a dazzling altarpiece (c.1745) the locked door leading from
operation until 1974. featuring a bas-relief of the the nave. In 1758 the parish
Last Supper, and a sculpture priest remarked on the fisher-
of St Anne teaching the young men’s great devotion to “Our
Virgin Mary to read. The altar Lady of the Rosary in their grief
of the Capela das Almas is and danger at sea, especially in
surrounded by stunning azulejos summertime when North
(c.1730) showing the Virgin and African pirates often sail off this
other saints pulling souls out coast.” At the rear of the church
of purgatory. is the external chapel of Nossa
Senhora dos Aflitos, where
 Faro Jewish women pray for their men’s
Heritage Centre safety in stormy weather.
Estrada da Penha. Tel 289 829 525 or The narrow, pedestrianized
Imposing twin-towered façade of the 925 071 509. Open 9am–1pm, 2–5pm streets of the old town wind
Baroque Igreja do Carmo Mon–Fri. Closed public hols. 7 down from here to the
At the far northeast corner of waterfront, the scene of one
R Igreja do Carmo town is the Jewish cemetery,
Largo do Carmo. Tel 289 824 490. Open created for the Jewish commu-
Mon–Sat. & to Capela dos Ossos. nity brought here in the 1700s
The impressive façade of this by the Marquês de Pombal
church was begun in 1713. Inside, (see pp56–7) to revitalize
the decoration is Baroque run the economy. The cemetery
wild, with every scroll and barley- is laid out in the traditional
sugar twist covered in precious Sephardic way, with children
Brazilian gold leaf. nearest the entrance, women
In sombre contrast, the Capela in the centre and men at
dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), the back. It served from
built in 1816, has walls lined 1838 until 1932, during
with skulls and large bones which time 60 local families
taken from the friars’ cemetery. prospered, then moved
It is a stark reminder of the away. Today there is no Whitewashed chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos
transience of human life. Jewish community in Faro. behind the parish church in Olhão
For hotels and restaurants in this area pp394–5 and pp411–13
ALGARVE  335
Water Birds of the

Ria Formosa
The Ria Formosa is an
important area for breeding
wetland birds such as cattle
egrets, red-crested pochard
and purple herons. On drier
areas of land, both pratincoles
and Kentish plovers can be
found. Some northern
The wide lagoon of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa European species, such as the
wigeon and dunlin, winter
of the region’s most lively and building, sand extraction and here, and it is a stopover for
migrant birds en route to
picturesque markets. The noisy, pollution, all by-products of
Africa. Among the resident
covered fish market sells the the massive rise in tourism. species is the rare purple
morning’s catch, while on The lagoon area of marshes, gallinule, symbol of the park.
Saturdays outside stalls line the saltpans, islets and channels is
quay, with local farmers selling sheltered from the open sea
an array of seasonal produce, by a chain of barrier islands –
including fruit, nuts, honey actually sand dunes. Inlets
and live chickens. between the islands allow the
tide to ebb and flow
into the lagoon.
The lagoon waters
are rich in shellfish,
such as oysters,
cockles and clams:
bred here, they make
up 80 per cent of the
nation’s mollusc Cattle egrets feed among
exports. The fish life cattle and are often seen
perched on their backs
and warm climate
pecking off insects and flies.
Shop selling local basketware in Olhão attract many wildfowl
and waders; snakes,
Environs toads and chameleons also
At the eastern end of the quay, live here. Apart from fish and
beyond the market, boats take shellfish farming and salt pan-
you out to the islands of Armona ning, all other human activities
(15 min), Culatra (30 min) and which might encroach on the
Farol (45 min). These flat, narrow park’s ecosystem are strictly
bars of sand provide shelter to controlled or forbidden.
the town, and excellent sandy Centro de Educaçâo
beaches for visitors, particularly Ambiental de Marim, about
on the ocean side. The islands 3 km (2 miles) east of Olhão, is
are part of the Parque Natural an environmental education
da Ria Formosa. centre. Its 60 ha (148 acres) of
dune and pinewoods are home
to various sights, including a The purple gallinule is a
o Parque Natural restored farmhouse, a tidal mill, dark-coloured relative of the
da Ria Formosa a centre for injured birds, as well moorhen. It can run fairly fast
as exhibitions and aquariums. on its extremely long legs but
Road map D7. n 289 700 210
The web-footed Portuguese is a poor flier.
(Mon–Fri). @ East of Olhâo on N125.
g from Faro, Olhão & Tavira. water dog, once much used by
Open daily. fishermen, has been bred back
from near-extinction here. At
Stretching from Praia de Faro the eastern end of the park are
to Cacela Velha (see p337), this Roman tanks where fish was
nature reserve follows 60 km salted before being exported
(37 miles) of coastline. It was to the empire.
created in 1987 to protect the The red-crested pochard
valuable ecosystem of this O Centro de Educaçâo is a brightly coloured duck
area, which was under serious Quelfes. Tel 289 702 071. Open Mon– originally from central Europe.
threat from uncontrolled Fri. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 8 -
Houses with four-sided roofs, along the river Gilão in Tavira
p Tavira The town now accommodates Environs

tourists, without compromising The sandy, offshore Ilha de
Road map D7. * 10,000. £ @
n Praça da República 5 (281 322 either its looks or atmosphere. Tavira, provides excellent
511). ( 3rd Sat of month. The best view of the town is swimming. A popular resort in
from the walls of the Moorish summer, you can reach it by
The pretty town of Tavira, full castle in the old Arab quarter on ferry from Quatro Águas.
of historic churches and fine top of the hill. From here the
mansions with filigree balconies, distinctive four-sided roofs of
lies along both sides of the the houses that line Rua da
Gilão river, linked by a bridge of Liberdade are clearly visible.
Roman origin. This was part These pyramid-like roofs possibly
of the coastal Roman road evolved to allow the sudden
between Castro Marim and torrential rain of the Algarve to
Faro (see pp332–4). run off easily. From the castle
Tavira’s early ascendancy walls, the nearby clock tower of
began with the Moors, who the church of Santa Maria do
saw it as one of their most Castelo also acts as a landmark.
important settlements in the The church itself occupies the
Algarve, along with Silves and site of what was once the biggest
Faro. It was conquered in 1242 mosque in the Algarve. Its façade
by Dom Paio Peres Correia, who retains a Gothic doorway and
was outraged at the murder of windows, and its interior, restored Blue and white houses, Cacela Velha
seven of his knights by the in the 19th century, houses the
Moors during a truce. tombs of Dom Paio Peres Correia a Cacela Velha
Tavira flourished until the and his seven knights. Santa Road map D7. * 50. n Monte
16th century, after which a slow Maria do Castelo and Igreja da Gordo, Avenida Marginal (281 544
decline set in, aggravated by a Misericórdia are the only two of 495). ( 3rd Sun of month.
severe plague (1645–6) and Tavira’s 21 churches to be open
the silting up of the harbour. outside service hours. Below the This hamlet perches on a cliff
castle, is the 1569 convent of overlooking the sea, reached
Nossa Senhora da Graça. via a landscape of fields and
Renaissance architecture olive trees. It has remained
was pioneered in the town by untouched by mass tourism,
André Pilarte, and can be seen and retains a peaceful
on the way up to the castle, atmosphere. Charming blue
in the Igreja da Misericórdia and white fishermen’s houses
(1541–51), with its lovely door- cluster around a fort (closed to
way topped by saints Peter and the public) and a whitewashed
Paul, and in the nearby Palácio 18th-century church.
da Galeria (open for temporary The beach is sheltered by a
exhibitions). The fascinating long spit of sand, and fishing
Núcleo Islâmico on Praça da boats are dotted about. The
República (Tel: 281 320 570) Phoenicians and Moors used
showcases Moorish artifacts, this protected site until it was
Beach on Ilha de Tavira, an island off the including an 11th-century taken over by the Knights of
Algarve’s eastern coast figurative vase. Santiago in 1240.
ALGARVE  337
s Vila Real de
Santo António
Road map D7. * 10,000. £ @
n Avenida Marginal, Monte Gordo
(281 544 495).
Built to a plan by the Marquês

de Pombal in 1774, Vila Real de
Santo António is a little like a
miniature version of Lisbon’s
Baixa (pp82–5), rebuilt after the
1755 earthquake also under
the auspices of Pombal. The
symmetrical grid of fairly wide Moorish castle and the abandoned Misericórdia church, Castro Marim
streets, the equal-sized blocks
with similar façades, the well- surrounding salinas are now by the Phoenicians, Greeks,
ordered naming system for the home to the Reserva Natural do Romans and, of course, the
streets, all speak of Pombal’s Sapal. Extending for 21 sq km Moors who stayed until the
practical and political ideals. (8 sq miles) south and east of reconquest in 1240. Here, in
Today, the town is one of the town, this is an area of saltpans 1371, on flower-decked boats
most important fishing ports on and marshes with a large variety midway between Alcoutim
the Algarve coast, as well as a of bird species including and its Spanish counterpart,
border town with its markets flamingos, avocets and black- Sanlúcar de Guadiana, King
geared towards visiting Spaniards. winged stilts, symbol of the Fernando I of Portugal signed
Its centre now seems too grand reserve. Individuals don’t need the peace of Alcoutim with
for its size, all of which makes it an to book, but group tours may Enrique II of Castile. By the late
interesting place to drop in on. be booked on 281 510 680. 17th century, when its political
importance had waned, the
town had acquired a new
f Alcoutim reputation – for smuggling
tobacco and snuff from Spain.
Road map D7. * 400. @
n Rua 1° de Maio (281 546 179).
The walls of the 14th-century
castle give an excellent view
The tiny, gem-like, unspoilt over the small village and its
village of Alcoutim lies 15 km idyllic setting. Alcoutim’s unique
(9 miles) from the border with visitor attraction is a cross-
the Alentejo, and on the natural border zip line (www.limitezero.
border with Spain, the River com), set over the river that
Guadiana. The drive there along divides Spain and Portugal.
the N122-2, a rough, winding
Vila Real’s Igreja Matriz, famous for its road which sometimes runs Environs
stained-glass windows alongside the Guadiana, provides Visitors can reach the village of
stunning views of the country- Foz de Odeleite by taking a
side and across the river to Spain. cruise boat along the Guidana
d Castro Marim The size of Alcoutim belies its River. Excursions depart from
Road map D7. * 4,000. @ n Rua history. As a strategic location Vila Real de Santo António
de São Sebastião (281 531 232). and river port, it was seized on (www.riosultravel.com).
( 2nd Sat of month.
The Phoenicians, Greeks and

Romans all made use of Castro
Marim’s commanding location
above the River Guadiana. It was
the gateway to the Moorish
Al-Gharb and for centuries it
was a sanctuary for fugitives
from the Inquisition (see p55).
The castle above the town is
of Moorish origin, the outlying
walls a 13th-century addition.
Environs
The town was also a centre
for salt production, and the View from Alcoutim across the Guadiana to Sanlúcar in Spain
Portugal’s
Islands
Introducing Portugal’s
Islands 340–345
Madeira 346–363
The Azores 364–377
340  P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S
Portugal’s Islands at a Glance

Once remote outposts of a maritime empire, today
Madeira and the Azores are easily accessible by air from
mainland Portugal. The fertile islands of Madeira and
Porto Santo, 600 km (375 miles) off the African coast,
are popular holiday destinations, with subtropical flora THE AZORES
and high mountains. The Azorean archipelago lies further

west, close to the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The climate here is MADEIRA
more temperate and the once active volcanoes have
created a fascinating scenery of moon-like landscapes
and collapsed craters.
Terceira is a relatively flat island

famous for its bull-running
festivals, the “tourada
à corda”. On the southern coast,
the twin-towered church of
São Mateus, built at the
turn of the century, overlooks
the harbour of
São Mateus.
C or vo
vo
Vila do Corvo
Santa Cruz
das Flores
Flo
ores
res
G r a ci o sa
THE AZORES Luz
(See pp364–377)
São Jorge
Velas
F a la l
Calheta
Madalena
Horta
Piedade
P i co
Pico is the summit of a

steep volcano protruding
from the sea. On the
lower slopes of the
mountain that fall
towards the sea, the fields
are crisscrossed with a
patchwork of dry-stone
walls made from black
volcanic basalt.
The verdant landscape at the Cascada da Ribeira Grande, Flores
I N T R O D U C I N G P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S  341
Funchal is the capital of Camacha

Madeira, famous for its
flowers. Exotic blooms Po r t o S a n t o
are sold along Rua do Ponta
Aljube, which is lined
with tall jacaranda trees.
Porto Moniz
MADEIRA
São Jorge (See pp346–363)
Ponta do
Pargo Ponta Madeira
São Vicente Delgada
Porto da Cruz
Curral Caniçal
das Freiras
Machico
Ponta do Sol
Ribeira Camacha
Brava
Funchal
Ilhas
D e se r t a s
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
Pico Ruivo, at 1,861 m (6,105 ft),

is the highest point on the island
of Madeira. The slopes below are
dotted with small farms.
Terceira
Praia da Vitória
Santa
Barbara Angra do
Heroísmo 0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
S ã o M igue l
Mosteiros Nordeste
Ponta Vila Franca

Delgada do Campo
São Miguel is popular for its

therapeutic spa treatments in hot
pools of mineral water. At Caldeira
das Furnas, in the east of the
island, steaming mud springs
bubble from the ground. S a nt a Ma r i a
Santo Espírito
The Landscape and Madeira’s Gardens

Flowers of Madeira The subtropical
climate and mixture of
Madeira has a mild, moist climate which indigenous and imported
promotes a rich cover of vegetation. At first plants combine to
glance, the flowers and foliage appear to produce gardens that
are the envy of horti
harmonize with the environment. The well-
culturalists all over the
travelled botanist, however, will soon become world. Gardens such as
aware of the strange assortment of flowers the Botanical Gardens in Funchal
from around the world. For example, over the (see p350) are awash with colour
all year. Here are some of the
past few centuries, many flowers from South
most striking plants that can
Africa’s Cape region and exotic blooms from be found in Madeira’s gardens.
South America have been introduced, which
Magnolia in bloom
now thrive alongside indigenous plants.
Around the Coast Agricultural and Wayside Ground

In many coastal areas the cliffs are spectacular, An irrigation system using manmade channels
such as this stretch at Ponta de São Lourenço called levadas, such as this one near Curral das
(see p356). A rich and varied flora, both native Freiras (see p360), allows the islanders to cultivate
and introduced, can be found along Madeira’s many otherwise unpromising areas. The margins
coast despite the dry and stony habitat. of agricultural land are often rich with flowers.
Hottentot fig is a Mimosa trees grow

coastal, groundcover especially well in
plant originating from wooded parts of
South Africa. Madeira, where they
bloom in winter.
Lampranthus spectabilis
is a South African plant Parrot’s beak is a large,
which flowers on the coast striking flower that
between May and July. appears in March
and April.
Canary Island date Hibiscus syriacus,

palms are a familiar from the Far East,
sight, especially along flowers between June
the sunny south coast. and October.
I N T R O D U C I N G P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S  343
Lady’s slipper Cymbidium orchids

orchids come in from Southeast
a variety of colours Asia thrive
and are great when they
favourites among are grown
Madeira’s more in sheltered
serious gardeners. sites and in
Coral trees originate
partial shade.
from southern
Brazil, and on
Madeira flower
Camellia thrives Protea cynaroides
between January
in partial shade comes from South
and March.
and grows to Africa where it is
the size of a known as the
small tree. Cape artichoke
or king protea.
High Ground Terraced Plantations

The views from the summit of Pico Ruivo, Plantations, such as this one growing bananas
the island’s highest point (see p360), are near Calheta (see p362), are made by digging
spectacular. In upland areas, the vegetation terraces into the hillside. A wide range of crops
harbours a higher proportion of native are grown, for home consumption and export.
species than in the lowlands.
Sweet chestnuts grow well
Isoplexis sceptrum, in Madeira and produce an
known as the yellow abundant autumn harvest.
foxglove, is a flowering
shrub native to Madeira.
Pawpaws produce
fruit all year round. The
plant originates from
South America.
Broom flowers are
colourful and popular
with pollinating insects.
Prickly juniper is Sword aloe has spiky

a hardy, spiny evergreen leaves which provide a
shrub covered in tough good physical barrier
red berries. around plantations.
The Azores: Volcanic Islands

Rising from the Ocean Bed THE AZORES
Situated on either side of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the Azores

are a result of 20 million years of volcanic activity. As the
plates of the earth’s crust pull apart, volcanic eruptions form
a giant ridge of mountains beneath the Atlantic. In places, the
ridge is buckled and cut by perpendicular fractures, known
as transform faults. Molten rock (magma) has been forced
through these faults to form the Azores. These islands, among The Mid-Atlantic Ridge is a line of
submarine volcanoes that runs the
the youngest on earth, emerged above the waves less than
whole length of the Atlantic Ocean.
five million years ago. Their striking landscape
tells of their volcanic past and is Corvo Terceira lies directly above a
major transform fault.
still shaped by volcanic
activity today. Graciosa
Flores
Transform
fault
The Mid-
Atlantic Ridge
marks the join where
the African, Eurasian and
American plates of the
earth’s crust are being
Faial
pulled apart.
Pico
A mantle plume is a mass of partially São Jorge

molten mantle that has welled
upwards, pooling beneath the rocky São Miguel has several
lithosphere. The magma it produces spectacular water-filled
seeks fissures through which to erupt. calderas and hot springs. Santa Maria
Volcanic Resources
of the Azores
The dramatic formation of the
Azores has left the islands with
abundant natural resources. Hot
springs, strong building materials
and, eventually, fertile soil, are all
the result of the ongoing volcanic
activity. A wet, temperate climate
gradually breaks down the volcanic
rocks into fertile soils. Older soils
support luxuriant vegetation and These stone cottages on Pico, like Furnas, on São Miguel, is an
are excellent for arable farming, but many on the islands, make use of area of sulphur and hot mud
younger soils, like those found on the plentiful basalt rock as a springs used for bathing and
Pico, support little agriculture yet. durable building material. for medicinal purposes.
i n t r o d u c i n g p o r t u g a l’ s i s l a n d s  345
The Formation of a Caldera

A caldera is a large crater that forms during or after
a volcanic eruption, when the roof of the magma
chamber collapses under the weight of the
volcano’s cone. Water collecting in the natural
bowl of a caldera can form a crater lake.
Rising high above the clouds, the still-active

volcanic peak of Pico Alto dominates the island
of Pico, which is itself the top of a giant
underwater volcano. At 2,350 m (7,700 ft) above
sea level, Pico Alto is the highest peak in the
whole of Portugal.
The Geology of the Azores

The Azores lie along transform fault lines,
cracks in the earth’s crust which cross the
Caldeira das Sete Cidades on the island of São Miguel
Mid-Atlantic Ridge. These faults are weak
points through which magma can rise. Gas and
Successive volcanic eruptions have formed volcanic ash
hundreds of undersea mountains on
either side of the ridge. The Alternate layers of
highest peaks of these lava flows and
mountains are the nine volcanic ash
islands of the Azores. Their Vent Magma
emergence above the sea chamber
has been aided by the
swelling of the mantle
plume beneath the ocean
crust, which lifts the sea In an active volcano, the magma chamber below
floor closer to the surface the cone is full of molten rock. As pressure forces
of the sea. this magma up through the volcano’s vent, it is
expelled to the surface as a volcanic eruption.
Thin ocean crust
Atlantic Ocean Exploding Volcano’s
magma collapsing
The upper mantle is a layer of
dense rock. With the crust above, cone
it forms the lithosphere, a series Enlarged
of semi-rigid moving plates. magma
chamber
The lower mantle, or asthenosphere,
is a deep layer of partially molten rock
that surrounds the earth’s core.
As magma is expelled, the level in the magma

chamber drops. This may cause the volcano’s cone
to collapse under its own weight, leaving behind
the characteristic bowl-shaped crater, or caldera.
Eroded Caldera lake Residual hot rock

crater
After the volcano has died down and is eroded,

Basalt lava blocks used for dry-stone walls provide the caldera can fill with water and form a lake.
shelter for vines and protect against soil erosion on Residual hot rock near the magma chamber may
Pico. Volcanic soil here is of relatively recent for- continue to heat the surrounding ground water.
mation and suitable for few crops except grapes.
P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S  347
MADEIRA
Madeira is a green, subtropical paradise of volcanic origin, its soils formed from
lava and ash, completely different in character from the Portuguese mainland.
Blessed with an equable daytime temperature that varies only by a few degrees
either side of 20° C (68° F), the island has an all-year-round appeal.
Madeira is a mere dot in the Atlantic brought in to work the land and create
Ocean, 608 km (378 miles) from Morocco the terraced fields and irrigation channels
and nearly 1,000 km (621 miles) from (levadas) that still cling to the steep
Lisbon. Despite this, Madeira and Porto hillsides to this day.
Santo appear on a Genoese map of 1351. Despite the gradients, Madeirans
They remained unclaimed, however, until make use of every spare patch of land
1418, when João Gonçalves Zarco was today, growing bananas, flowers and
blown out into the Atlantic by violent grapes, although tourism is the main
storms while exploring the coast of Africa. industry. The island’s Laurisilva, or laurel
Zarco found safe harbour in Porto Santo, forest, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
returning on a voyage of discovery Madeira appeals to keen walkers,
sponsored by Henry the Navigator (see plant lovers and sun-seekers, water-
p53). Early in 1420, after a winter on Porto sports enthusiasts, and those looking
Santo, he set sail for the mist-shrouded for a whale- and dolphin-watching
land on the horizon. He found a beautiful, destination. It’s also becoming a
thickly wooded island (madeira means gastronomic hotspot; two Funchal
wood), with abundant fresh water. Within restaurants are Michelin-starred while
seven years the island had attracted a several others are Michelin recom-
pioneer colony and the early settlers mended. Madeira’s greatest export,
exploited the fertile soil and warm wine, is another real draw, with it’s
climate to grow sugar cane. The islanders famous fortified wine taking the name
grew rich on this, and slaves were of the island.
Triangular-shaped houses, typical of the town of Santana on the north coast of Madeira
One of the waterfalls at Vinte e Cinco Fontes (25 Springs), in the west of Madeira
Exploring Madeira
Funchal is the island’s capital and the only town of any
size. This is where most of the museums and historic
buildings are to be found, as well as the best hotels,
restaurants and shops. Most of Madeira’s agricultural
crops are grown along the sunny, prosperous south
coast. The cooler, wetter north side has fewer settlements
and more cattle. Many parts of the mountainous and
volcanic interior remain wild, and some are accessible
only on foot. Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island,
is a favourite destination for walkers.
Ponta do Terraces near Boa Ventura, on the road from

Tristão Santana to São Vicente
PORTO MONIZ
Santa
Lamaceiros
Achadas
da Cruz
Ribeira da Janela AT L A N T I C
O C E A N Ponta Delgada
Seixal
Ribeira da Vaca
Boaventura
Ri
Ponta do
be
Pargo Senhora al
n SÃO VICENTE
i ra
do Amparo Fa
iro s
ue do
s
da
seg do
Remal
Pes nta
Lameiros
Ja
osei ra Ginjas
da R 1320m
ne
Mo
Achada
eço Pico Ruivo
C ab
la
Fajã da Ovelha da Madeira

do Paúl
Ponta do RABAÇAL 1640m
Pesqueiro Raposeira
WALKS Casado
ERRA 1725m
AS Bica da Boca da
Paúl do Mar Prazeres ÚLD Cana Encumeada
PA 1620m 1007m
ada Fajã dos
Lombo Q u e br Cardos
Jardim do Mar dos Reis Chã da Pico Grande
1657m
r cas
Mou ro
Serra de Água
d a s Te
CALHETA CURRAL
DAS FREIRAS
bo do
Lombo
Arco da Calheta
Lom
0 kilometres 5 Jardim
Madalena da Serra
do Mar Lugar
0 miles 3
Candelária da Serra
Ponta do Sol São João
Tabúa
Campanário
RIBEIRA BRAVA Quinta Grande
CÂMARA DE
LOBOS
Getting Around
Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is at Santa
Cruz, 18 km (11 miles) northeast of Funchal. Buses
operate to all corners of the island from Funchal
but are not geared to tourists. Taxis can be used,
but for flexibility car hire is best. From north to
south the island is 22 km (14 miles) wide and
from east to west just 57 km (35 miles) long.
Even so, travelling times are magnified by the
mountainous terrain. To reach the nearby island
of Porto Santo, you can either fly from Santa Cruz
The rooftops of Funchal, with the mountainous or take the ferry from Funchal to Porto de Abrigo
interior of Madeira beyond (near Vila Baleira). (See also pp444–5.)
MADEIRA  349
PORTO SANTO
Ilhéu da Fonte Ilhéu

da Areia das Cenouras
Camacha Serra de Dentro THE AZORES
Ponta Serra de
do Varadouro Farrobo
Fora Ponta
dos Ferreiros
MADEIRA
Tanque
Campo de Cima Ponta da Galé
Vila
Ilhéu Baleira Ilhéu
de Ferro de Cima
Cabeço da Ponta
Zimbralinho Ponta
Ponta
da Calheta
AT L A N T I C
Ilhéu de Baixo OCEAN
ou da Cal
Ponta de
São Jorge
São Jorge
Ponta de Santana
Ribeira Achada da Cruz

Funda
Ilha SANTANA
Achada
do Marques Faial
Queimadas
Pico Canário The wild cliffs of Ponta de São Lourenço,
1592m Porto da Cruz near Caniçal
Achada do Ponta do
Teixeira Cruzinhas Espigão Amarelo
PICO RUIVO Referta Maiata
Pico da Coroa
Pico das Torres 738m Ponta de
1851m Portela São Lourenço
Balcöes CANIÇAL
860m Maroços Prainha
RIBEIRO Ribeira
PICO DO FRIO de Machico Ribeira Seca
ARIEIRO Santo António
da Serra MACHICO
Passo de Poiso Água de Pena
Esteios 1400m João Ferino
1346m Terça
Choupana
Águas
Pico Alto
1129m
Mansas Sights at a Glance
MONTE Santa Cruz 1 Funchal pp350–53
CAMACHA
Santo 2 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro
São João Gaula
António de Latrão 3 Monte
QUINTA DO
PALHEIRO FERREIRO 4 Camacha
São
Gonçalo Caniço 5 Machico
São
Martinho 6 Caniçal
Garajau Caniço de Baixo
FUNCHAL Ponta da Oliveira 7 Santana
8 Ribeiro Frio
9 Pico do Arieiro
0 Pico Ruivo
q Curral das Freiras
w Paúl da Serra
Key r São Vicente
Motorway t Porto Moniz

y Calheta
Major road
u Ribeira Brava
Minor road
i Câmara de Lobos
Scenic route
o Porto Santo
Path
Summit Walks and Tours
e Rabaçal Walks
1 Street-by-Street: Funchal The Igreja do Colégio

(Collegiate Church) was
The deep natural harbour of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, founded by the Jesuits in 1574.
The plain exterior contrasts
attracted early settlers in the 15th century. The historic with the richly decorated high
core of the capital still overlooks the harbour and boasts fine altar, framed by carved, gilded
government buildings and stately 18th-century houses with wood (1641–60).
shady courtyards, iron balconies and carved black basalt door-
ways. Visitors have justly called Funchal a “little Lisbon” because Rua da Carreira and Rua
of the town’s steep cobbled streets and overall air of grandeur. do Surdo have preserved
many of their original
elegant balconied houses.
São Pedro
church
The Museu R UA D A S P R E TA S
Municipal
houses an
aquarium and
RUA
is a favourite
with children.
DO
A
EIR
RR
SUR
CA
A DA
RU
DO
RU
A
S.
AV
FR
EN
The Old Blandy Wine
AN
ID
Lodge (see p353)
A
CI
SC
O
The monument to João

Gonçalves Zarco, the man who
claimed Madeira for Portugal,
was created by the sculptor
Francisco Franco in 1927.
GA
R IA
Café Ritz Funchal AR
The building’s exterior is decorated DA
E NI
with 20th-century tiles depicting AV
various Madeiran scenes including
the famous Monte toboggan
RU
(see p354).
A
DA
The Palácio de São Lourenço

S F
is a 16th-century fortress housing

ONTES
Madeira’s military headquarters.
Key
Suggested route
Yacht Marina
Lined with seafood
restaurants, the yacht
marina on Avenida do Mar
is ideal for an evening stroll.
The sea wall around the Avenida
marina offers good views. do Mar
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
FUNCHAL  351
Câmara Municipal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Funchal’s city hall is an
imposing 18th-century Practical Information
mansion with a fountain in its * 111,000.
courtyard depicting Leda n Avenida Arriaga 16 (291 211
and the Swan. 902). ( Mon–Sat. _ Apr/May:
Inside, a small Flower Festival; mid-Sep: Wine
museum traces Festival; 31 Dec: Fireworks.
the history Museu Municipal de História
of Funchal Natural: Rua da Mouraria 31.
in photographs. Tel 291 229 761. Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat, Sun
& public hols. &
Transport
k Cristiano Ronaldo International
Airport 18 km (11 miles) NE. g
@ Avenida do Mar.
The Museu de Arte Sacra

includes Flemish paintings,
embroidered vestments and
statues among the displays
RU
of religious art (see p352).

A
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U
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TA
A 0 metres 50
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0 yards 50
A
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. Praça do Município
Contrasting black and white
stones pave the attractive
municipal square. On the
northeast side of the square
is the Câmara Municipal.
GA Bus
DE
FÃ N
AL station
DA
ZA
A
RU
RC
O
Rua do Aljube
Alongside the Sé, flower sellers
in traditional costumes offer a
colourful array of exotic flowers.
The Alfândega Velha (Old

Customs House) was built in
1477 and is now home to the
island’s regional parliament.
Palácio
do Governo
. Sé
São Tiago (St James) is one of many gilded
Regional
figures that adorn the wonderfully carved
wooden choir stalls in Funchal’s 15th-century
cathedral (see p352).
Exploring Funchal E Quinta das Cruzes

Calçada do Pico 1. Tel 291 740 670.
Funchal extends in a crescent along the coastline of Funchal Open 10am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
Bay, with the Zona Velha or Old Quarter, a warren of former Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. &
∑ museuquintadascruzes.com
fishermen’s houses, at the eastern end and the Hotel or
It is said that Zarco, the man
Tourist Zone, dominated by hotels and restaurants, at the who claimed Madeira for
western end and beyond. Between is the heart of Funchal, Portugal (see p347), built his
with its attractive historic centre around the gracious Avenida house where the Quinta das
Arriaga. It has a lively marina and working port, where a small Cruzes now stands. The
fishing fleet is overshadowed by cruise liners. Funchal also has elegant 19th-century mansion
two scenic cable cars. A few blocks inland, the city fans out in is now the Museum of
Decorative Arts, furnished as
a dense web of red-tiled roofs and subtropical greenery. a wealthy merchant’s house
with Indian silk wall hangings,
R Sé E Museu de Arte Sacra Regency sideboards and
Largo da Sé. Tel 291 228 155. Rua do Bispo 21. Tel 291 228 900. oriental carpets. On the ground
Open 7am–noon & 4–6:45pm daily. Open 10am–12:30pm & 2:30–6pm floor is furniture made from
The cathedral is one of the few Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun. mahogany packing cases
buildings in Madeira to have Closed public hols. & used in the 17th century for
survived virtually untouched ∑ museuartesacrafunchal.org shipping sugar and turned
since the early days of the Madeiran merchants, into chests and cupboards
island’s colonization. In who grew rich on the when the sugar trade died.
the 1490s, King Manuel I sugar trade, sought to The garden is dotted with
(see pp50–53) sent the secure their salvation ancient tombstones and
architect Pêro Anes by commissioning architectural fragments.
from the mainland to paintings, statues, em- These include two window
work on the design of broidered vestments frames from 1507 carved
the colony’s cathedral. and illuminated hymn with rope motifs, acrobatic
The Sé was finally books for their local figures and man-eating lions
completed in 1514. churches. Hundreds of in a Madeiran version of the
The highlights are examples now fill this Manueline style of architecture
the ceiling and the Clock tower of museum, housed in the (see pp28–9).
choir stalls, though Funchal’s Sé former bishop’s palace,
neither is easy to see a building dating from R Convento de Santa Clara
in the dark interior. The ceiling 1600. There are some master- Calçada de Santa Clara. Tel 291 742
of inlaid wood is best seen from pieces in the collection, such as 602. Open 10am–noon & 3–5pm
the south transept, where the late-Gothic processional Mon–Sat, 10am–noon Sun
enough light filters in to illu- cross donated by King Manuel I, (church only). &
minate the intricate patterning. and religious paintings by Opposite Quinta das Cruzes
The choir stalls depict saints, major Flemish artists of the is the Convento de Santa Clara,
prophets and apostles in 15th and 16th centuries. Some founded in 1496 by João
16th-century costume. Aspects works include portraits of the Gonçalves de Câmara, one
of Madeiran life feature in the dignitaries who commissioned of Zarco’s grandsons. Zarco
decorative details of the arm- them. Saints Philip and James is a himself is buried under the
rests and seats: one cherub 16th-century painting showing high altar, and Martim Mendes
carries a bunch of bananas, Simão Gonçalves de Câmara, Vasconcelos, his son-in-law,
another a goatskin full of wine. Zarco’s (see p347) grandson. has a tomb at the rear of the
church. Precious 17th-century
azulejo tiles cover the walls.
Y Jardim Botânico
Quinta do Bom Sucesso, Caminho do
Meio. Tel 291 211 200. Open daily.
Closed 25 Dec. &
The Botanical Gardens display
plants from all over the world.
Desert cacti, rainforest orchids
and South African proteas
grow here as well as Madeiran
dragon trees. There are con-
trasting sections: formal areas
of bedding plants, quiet carp
The intricately patterned formal gardens of the Jardim Botânico ponds and wild wooded parts.
MADEIRA  353
 The Old Blandy

Wine Lodge
Av Arriaga 28. Tel 291 228 978. Open
10am–6:30pm Mon–Fri (to 1pm Sat).
Closed pub hols. 8 compulsory.
∑ blandyswinelodge.com
In the cobbled courtyards of
the St Francis wine lodge, visi
tors are greeted by the scents
of ancient wood and Madeira.
Some of the buildings in this
maze of coopers’ yards, wine
vaults and sampling rooms go
back to the 1600s, when the site
was part of a Franciscan friary.
It is possible to sample wines
made here more than 150 years House and gardens of the Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro
ago as well as more recent (and
cheaper) vintages. Included in fishermen’s quarter. The simple, 2 Quinta do
the guided tour is a visit to the singlestorey dwellings at the Palheiro Ferreiro
warming rooms where Madeira pedestrianized eastern end of Sìtio do Balançal, Sâo Gonçalo.
is “heated” by hotwater pipes Rua Dom Carlos I are said to Tel 291 793 044. @ Open 9am–
(see p355). date from the 15th century. 5:30pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
The little Corpo Santo chapel & ∑ palheirogardens.com
was built by 16thcentury fisher
men in honour of their patron, The Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro
St Peter, and is said to be the is Madeira’s finest garden and a
oldest such building in Funchal. place of pilgrimage for flower
lovers. A French landscape
+ Fortaleza de São Tiago architect laid out the gardens in
Rua do Portão de São Tiago. Tel 291 213 the 18th century for the wealthy
340. Museum: Open 10am–12:30pm, Count of Carvalhal, who built
2–5pm Mon–Sat. & Fortress: 10am– the elegant mansion (not open
11pm. Free. Closed public hols. to visitors) overlooking the
Along the seafront is the garden and the Baroque chapel
The well-stocked tasting room at The Old Fortaleza de São Tiago, built in in the garden itself.
Blandy Wine Lodge 1614, with additions dating from The estate was acquired in
1767. The fortress, with its maze 1885 by the longestablished
( Mercado dos Lavradores of passages and staircases, com AngloMadeiran Blandy family,
Largo dos Lavradores. Tel 291 214 080. mands views over Funchal and hence its English name:
Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. houses a Museum of Contem Blandy’s Gardens. New species
The Mercado dos Lavradores porary Art and a restaurant. were introduced from South
is where flower growers, Africa, China and
basket weavers, farmers Australia, resulting in a
and fishermen from all over garden that combines
Madeira bring their products the clipped formality
to market. The covered of late 18thcentury
market building, situated layout with the prof
on three floors around an usion of Englishstyle
open courtyard, is full of the herbaceous borders,
colour and bustle of island plus the combination of
life. Stallholders offer slices tropical and temperate
of mango or custard fruit climate varieties.
to prove that theirs are the Quite apart from its
sweetest and best. On the horticultural interest, the
ground floor, marble tables garden is a peaceful
are draped with great slabs wildlife haven, full of
of tuna and blackskinned beauty and contrast as
scabbard fish with huge you pass from the for
eyes and razorsharp teeth. mality of the Ladies’
On Fridays the market Garden to the tropical
spills out into the back wilderness of the ravine
streets of the Zona Velha Mercado dos Lavradores Market, where one can purchase ominously signposted
(Old Quarter), the former some of the freshest produce in Funchal “Inferno” (Hell).
operates between 9am Funchal. From the church

and 5:45pm daily, except steps, past the drivers’ corner,
for 25 December. The a left turn signposted “Old
railway closed in 1939, Monte Gardens” leads to the
but the station and a Monte Palace Tropical
viaduct survive, now Gardens. These landscaped
forming part of the gardens feature areas devoted
luxuriant Jardim do to Madeiran flora, South African
Monte public gardens. proteas, plants from Japan and
It is a short stroll through China, and azaleas, camellias
the gardens to the church and orchids. The museum
of Nossa Senhora do exhibits a collection of
Monte, whose twin- contemporary Zimbabwean
towered façade looks sculpture and downstairs,
down on the island’s minerals and precious stones
capital. The present from around the world.
church was built in 1818
on the site of a chapel Y Monte Palace Tropical
built in 1470 by Adam Gardens
Gonçalves Ferreira. Tel 291 780 800. Open 9:30am–6pm
The Virgin of Monte daily (museum: 10am–4:30pm).
The contrasting façade of Nossa Senhora do Monte, is Madeira’s patron Closed 25 Dec. &
∑ montepalace.com
created by basalt against whitewash saint and this church is
the focal point of the pilgrimage
3 Monte that takes place annually on
* 10,000. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, 15 August (the Feast of the
Funchal (291 211 902). Assumption) when penitents
climb the church’s 74 steps on
Monte has been a favourite their knees. The object of their
destination for visitors to Madeira worship is a tiny statue of the
since the late 19th century, when Virgin on the high altar.
a rack-and-pinion railway was built Left of the nave is a chapel
to haul cruise liner passengers up housing a mortuary chest, con-
the hillside from Funchal. Coming taining the remains of the last
down they would take the fam- Hapsburg Emperor, Karl I, who
ous Monte Toboggan ride. was deposed in 1918. Exiled in
An alternative way to get to the Madeira, he died of pneumonia
Monte is by the cable car that in 1922, aged only 35.
runs from Jardim do Almirante Toboggan drivers in straw One of the skilled wicker workers
Reis, below the old town, up to hats wait for passengers every of Camacha constructing a table
the Caminho das Babosas, by the day on the corner of Caminho
Monte Palace Gardens. The ascent do Monte, and they run (for a 4 Camacha
takes 15 minutes, and the car fee) to Livramento and on to * 9,000. @ n O Relógio, Largo
Conselheiro Aires de Ornelas 12
The Monte Toboggan (291 922 777). Factory and warehouse
8:45am–6pm.
Sliding in a wicker basket mounted on wooden runners, it is possible
to cover the 2-km (1-mile) descent from Monte to Livramento in Most of the wicker products sold in
10 minutes. The trip is made by Funchal are made in and around
thousands every year, fascinated Camacha, and the sole attraction
by the experience of travelling at in this otherwise sleepy village is a
speed down a public highway on large shop packed with every-
a wooden sled. Ernest Hemingway thing wicker, from picture frames,
once described it as “exhilarating”. bedsteads and cradles to peacock-
A cushioned seat softens the ride backed armchairs. It is often pos-
and passengers are in the safe sible to see weavers at work in
hands of the toboggan drivers, the factory, bending the pliant
who push and steer from the stripped willow round a frame to
rear, using their rubber-soled produce a linen basket or plant-
boots as brakes. Madeiran pot container. A Noah’s Ark full of
tobogganing was invented paired animals is displayed on
as a form of passenger the middle floor, along with a full-
transport around 1850. The famous Monte Toboggan ride sailed galleon, as an advertisement
of the local wicker weavers’ skills.
MADEIRA  355
Madeira Wine
In the 16th century, ships stopping at months to a year. The effect is to hurry
Funchal would take on barrels of local up the ageing process: the best wines are
wine. This unfortified Madeira often “cooked” more gently and slowly.
spoiled during the voyage, so shippers The finest Madeirans are heated
started adding spirit to make it better. The by the sun, maturing slowly in
wine now seemed to improve after a long, the attics of the wine lodges.
hot voyage, and quality Madeira began to Most Madeira is made
be sent on round trips as an alternative to from the Tinta Negra Mole
maturing it in Funchal’s lodges. This grape, often blended
expensive method was replaced with the with one of the four
estufa system, still very much in use today. noble varieties
Large volumes of wine are heated to listed
between 30 and 50°C for a period of three below. Making barrels for Madeira, Funchal
The Four Types of Madeira
The barrels in the Adegas de

Sercial is made Verdelho São Francisco, where Madeira is
from white grapes are warmed, need frequent repair as
grapes grown grown in cool do the wooden floors that bear
at heights up vineyards at their huge weight.
to 1,000 m lower heights
(3,280 ft). Good- than the Sercial.
quality Sercial is aged for at This medium-dry tawny wine
least ten years, giving it its is also drunk as an aperitif.
amber colour. A dry wine, it Sweeter than Sercial, Verdelho
is mostly drunk as an aperitif goes well with a slice of
or with soup, and is best Madeira cake (invented by the
served chilled. English for just this purpose).
These casks of Verdelho are

being aged after the addition of
brandy to the wine. Vintage wine
must spend at least 20 years in the
cask and two in the bottle.
Bual (or Boal) Malmsey, the

grapes are grown most celebrated
in lower, warmer Madeira, is made
conditions. Dark, from Malvasia
rich and nutty, it grapes grown in
is a medium-sweet sunny vineyards
wine that can be served as backed by cliffs, where the heat Vintage Madeira from every
an alternative to port. It goes absorbed by the rock by day decade as far back as the mid-19th
very well with cheeses and warms the grapes by night. The century is still available for sale. The
dessert, and is best drunk result is a rich dark wine drunk oldest surviving bottle of Madeira
at room temperature. as an after-dinner digestive. dates from 1772.
5 Machico Machico became a sleepy

* 22,000. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, agricultural town.
Funchal (291 211 902). The Igreja Matriz on Largo
do Município, Machico’s main
Legend has it that Machico was square, dates from the 15th
named after Robert Machim, a century. Above the high altar
merchant from Bristol, who is a statue of the Virgin Mary,
eloped with the aristocratic donated by Manuel I (see pp50–
Anne of Hertford and set 53), as were the three
sail for Portugal. marble pillars used View from Ponta de São Lourenço
Caught in a storm in the construction promontory, east of Caniçal
and shipwrecked of the Gothic south
on Madeira, the portal. Inside, there 6 Caniçal
two lovers died is a fine example of * 5,000. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16,
from exposure Manueline-style Funchal (291 211 902).
and were buried. stone masonry in
The rest of the the Capela de São Caniçal was once the centre
crew repaired the Main altar in the Capela dos João Baptista, whose of Madeira’s whaling industry:
boat and sailed Milagres, Machico arch shows Teixeira’s the whaling scenes for John
to Lisbon, where coat of arms, with a Huston’s film version of Moby
their story inspired Prince Henry phoenix rising from the flames. Dick (1956) were shot here.
the Navigator (see p53) to send Across the River Machico, Whaling ceased in June 1981,
João Gonçalves Zarco (see p347) on Largo dos Milagres, is the and since then the waters
in search of this mysterious Capela dos Milagres (Chapel around Madeira have been
wooded island. of the Miracles). The present declared a marine mammal
Machico has been Madeira’s structure dates from 1815, but it sanctuary – killing whales,
second most important town stands on the site of Madeira’s dolphins and seals is forbidden.
since the first settlements, when first church, where Robert Fishermen who once hunted
the island was divided into two Machim and Anne of Hertford whales now help marine
captaincies: Zarco ruled the are supposedly buried. The biologists at the Society for the
west from Funchal whilst his earlier church of 1420 was Protection of Sea Mammals
fellow navigator, Tristão Vaz destroyed in a flood in 1803, understand whale migrations.
Teixeira, ruled the east from but the 15th-century crucifix The modern Museu da Baleia
Machico. However, Funchal’s was found floating out at sea. (Whaling Museum) illustrates the
superior location and harbour Machico celebrates the return history of the island’s whaling
soon ensured that it developed of its cross with a procession industry through hunting tools,
as the capital of Madeira while every year on 8 October. artifacts and vintage photo-
graphs. There are also several
life-like models of whales.
E Museu da Baleia
Rua Garcia Moniz 1. Tel 291 961 858.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter
Sun, 24, 25 & 26 Dec. & 7
∑ madeirawhalemuseum.org
Environs
The easternmost tip of Madeira,
the Ponta de São Lourenço, is
characterized by dramatic wave-
battered cliffs plunging 180 m
(590 ft) to the Atlantic. Walkers
are attracted by footpaths
which meander from one
clifftop to another, with wild
flowers growing in sheltered
hollows. The treeless landscape
contrasts totally with the island’s
wooded interior.
On the road from Caniçal to
Ponta de São Lourenço, look
out for the signpost to the bay
of Prainha, Madeira’s only
The bell tower of the Igreja Matriz, Machico naturally black sandy beach.
MADEIRA  357
7 Santana
* 7,700. @ n Rua do Sacristão,
Sítio do Serrado (291 575 162).
Named after St Anne, mother of

the Virgin, Santana has more than
100 thatched triangular houses,
several of which can be visited.
The surrounding hillsides are also
dotted with thatched byres. The
Parque Temático da Madeira has
a maze, a water mill and exhibits
on various aspects of Madeira.
Santana valley is farmed for
fruit and vegetables, and osiers
– the willow branches that are
the raw material for the wicker
workers of Camacha (see p354).
E Parque Temático da Madeira Sunrise over the mountains, seen from Pico do Arieiro
Fonte da Pedra. Tel 291 570 410.
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm daily places. Far easier is the hillsides cloaked in fragrant
(till 6pm Oct–Mar). & 20-minute walk on the left eucalyptus and bay laurel. At
∑ parquetematicodamadeira.pt (going downhill) signposted around 900 m (2,950 ft), you will
to Balcões (Balconies). This often meet the cloud line and
viewpoint gives panoramic pass for a few minutes through
views across the valley of the swirling mists and possibly rain,
River Ametade to Penha de before emerging into a sunlit
Águia (Eagle Rock), the sheer- landscape of volcanic rocks. At
sided hill that projects from the top, the spectacular view is
Madeira’s northern coast. of clouds in the valleys and
dramatic mountain ridges with
knife-edge peaks. Just visible on
9 Pico do Arieiro a clear day is Pico Ruivo (see
@ to Camacha, then taxi. p360), connected to Pico do
Arieiro by a 10-km (6-mile) path.
From Funchal it is about a On especially clear days you
30-minute drive up the Pico do may be able to see the
Arieiro, Madeira’s third highest neighbouring island of Porto
mountain at 1,810 m (5,938 ft). Santo, some 48 km (30 miles)
Bridge across a levada on the walk from The route leads through steep north of Madeira.
Ribeiro Frio to Balcões
8 Ribeiro Frio The Triangular Houses of Santana

* 45. @ from Funchal. Simply constructed from two A-shaped timber frames, with a
wood-panelled interior and thatched roof, these triangular houses
Ribeiro Frio is a pretty spot are unique to Madeira. They are first mentioned in the 16th century,
consisting of a couple of but most of the surviving examples are no more than 100 years old.
restaurants, shops and a trout Today their doors and
farm, fed by the “cold stream” windows are often painted a
after which the place is named. cheerful red, yellow or blue. In
Surrounding the trout farm is the warm year-round climate
an attractive garden full of of Madeira, cooking and
eating take place out of
native trees and shrubs. This is
doors, and the toilets are
the starting point for two of the placed well away from the
island’s best levada walks (see house. To the inhabitants,
p361). The 12-km (7-mile) path therefore, the triangular
signposted to Portela (on the houses serve principally as
right heading downhill past shelter from the rain and for
the restaurants) passes through sleeping in. The interior is
dramatic mountain scenery deceptively spacious, with
but is best left to experienced a living area downstairs and
walkers because of the long sleeping space up in the loft.
tunnels and steep drops in
have left now, but the village

remains. Visitors first glimpse
Curral das Freiras from a
viewpoint known as the Eira do
Serrado, perched some 800 m
(2,625 ft) above the village.
The valley is surrounded on
all sides by jagged mountain
peaks. Until 1959 the only
access to the village was by
a steep zigzagging path, but
road tunnels now make the
journey much easier and
allow local people to transport
their produce to the capital.
Television arrived in 1986.
The sweet chestnuts that
grow in profusion around the
village are turned into sweet
chestnut bread, best eaten
still warm from the oven, and
Panoramic view of the mountains from the Pico Ruivo summit licor de castanha, a chestnut-
flavoured liqueur. Both can
0 Pico Ruivo (6-mile) walk. This takes two to be sampled in local bars.
@ to Santana or Faial, then taxi to three hours and is really only
Achada do Teixeira, then walk. suitable for experienced, well-
equipped walkers. Vertigo
Madeira’s highest mountain at sufferers should not attempt
1,861 m (6,105 ft), Pico Ruivo is the path, as it involves nego-
only accessible on foot. The tiating narrow ridges with
easiest way to scale its heights sheer drops on either side.
is via a well-signposted foot-
path which begins at the village
of Achada do Teixeira and leads q Curral das Freiras
visitors on a 45-minute walk to * 3,000. @ n Avenida Arriga 16,
the top. Funchal (291 211 902).
Alternatively, follow the walk
from the top of Pico do Arieiro Curral das Freiras means “Nuns’
(see p357) along one of the Refuge” and the name refers to
island’s most spectacular foot- the nuns of the Santa Clara
paths. Awe-inspiring mountain convent who fled to this idyllic Sheep grazing on the wide plateau of Paúl
scenery and glorious views can spot when pirates attacked da Serra, east of Rabaçal
be enjoyed all along the 10-km Funchal in 1566. The nuns
w Paúl da Serra
The Levadas of Madeira @ to Canhas, then taxi.
Madeira possesses a unique irrigation system that enables the plentiful The Paúl da Serra (literally “high
rainfall of the north of the island to be distributed to the drier, sunny moorland”) is a large, boggy
south. Rainfall is stored in reservoirs and lakes, or channelled from plateau, 17 km (11 miles) in
natural springs, and fed into length and 6 km (4 miles)
the network of levadas that in width. The plain contrasts
ring the island. These narrow dramatically with the jagged
channels carry water long mountains that characterize
distances to banana groves, the rest of Madeira.
vineyards and market gardens.
Electricity for the north of the
Altogether there are 1,500 km
island is generated here by wind
(932 miles) of canals, some
dating back to the 1500s. turbines. Only gorse and grass
Maintenance paths run grow on the thin soil, and the
alongside the levadas, sponge-like volcanic substrata
providing a network of act as a natural reservoir for
footpaths reaching into rainfall. Water filters through
Levada do Risco, one of many walking remote parts of the island the rock to emerge as springs
routes across Madeira inaccessible by road. which then feed the island’s
levada system.
The dramatic landscape of the São Lourenço peninsula
MADEIRA  361
e Rabaçal Walks Tips for Walkers

Reached down a single-track road near the Paúl da Serra Length: These two walks can be
combined to create a circular
plateau, Rabaçal is the starting point for two, equally
route of 8 km (5 miles), taking
magical, levada walks. One is a simple 30-minute, there- around three and a half hours.
and-back stroll to the Risco waterfall, while the other Note: The levadas can be slippery
is a more demanding two- to and sometimes very narrow. In
places the path is only 30 cm (1 ft)
three-hour walk to the beauty
wide, but the channel runs at waist
spot known as Vinte e Cinco height and you can hold on. Always
Fontes (25 Springs). check ahead to make sure trails
are open (www.visitmadeira.pt).
6 Levada da Rocha Vermelha
Wild, mountainous terrain forms
the backdrop to the steep path
down to the lower levada.
L e v ad Levada
a No
da
oc 5 25 Fontes
va
R
ha V
do
ermelh
a A 30-minute walk brings
Ra
Lev aç
b
ad al
aN
you to a mossy, fern-hung
ova
do area with a main cascade
d as 25 Rib Ra
Fo eira b and many smaller ones.
da
ntes da
va
Ja
aç
ne
Le
al
la
4 Ribeira da Janela
do Ri
da sc Cross the bridge and
va o
then tackle the steep
Le
Levad
ad
as
uphill climb on
25 Fontes the left.
Leva
Paúl Da da
o
Serra
d
Ris
co
1 Rabaçal
Walkers can leave their vehicles
at a nearby car park or make use
of a shuttle service to reach the 3 Risco Waterfall
starting point, which has a rest At this magnificent spot, a
house with picnic tables and torrent of water cascades
views of the valley. Follow the from the rocky heights down
signposted path down to meet into the green depths of the
the Levada do Risco. Risco valley far below.
Key
Walk route
Road
River
Levada
2 Levada do Risco
The course of the levada, which
leads to the waterfall, is shaded 0 metres 250
by tree heathers draped with 0 yards 250
hair-like lichens.
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this area see p395 and pp413–14
the Grutas de São Vicente, The other draw is the Madeira

that formed 850,000 years Aquarium (Tel: 291 850 340;
ago during a volcanic open 10am–6pm daily) housed
eruption. Visitors can walk in the old São João Batista fort.
the 1-km (0.6-mile) trail of
excavated lava channels
dripping with stalactites.
By the caves’ entrance is
the Volcanism Centre.
Around 8 km (4 miles)
northeast is Seixal. Despite
the storms that batter the
coast, this village occupies
a remarkably sheltered
spot, where vineyards cling
to the hillside terraces,
producing excellent wine.
} Grutas e Centro do Bananas, a prolific crop in Calheta

Vulcanismo de São Vicente
Simple stone font in the attractively tiled baptistry Sitio do Pé do Passo. Tel 291 842 y Calheta
of the Igreja Matriz in São Vicente 404. Open 10am–7pm daily.
* 3,500. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16,
Closed 25 Dec. ∑ grutas
Funchal (291 211 902).
r São Vicente ecentrodovulcanismo.com.
* 5,700. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16,
Calheta sits at the centre of what
Funchal (291 211 902). sugar-cane production survives
t Porto Moniz in Madeira. The smell of cane
This agricultural town has grown * 2,700. @ n Rua dos Emigrantes, syrup being extracted and turned
prosperous over the years by Vila do Porto Moniz (291 853 075). into rum hangs around the village
tempting travellers to break their from the factory (the best time is
journeys here as they explore Although it is only 75 km March to April). The Centro das
Madeira’s northern coast. (47 miles) from Funchal, visitors Artes Casa das Mudas provides
To see how the village looked arriving in Porto Moniz feel a a more contemporary setting.
before development began, great sense of achievement Picasso is among the artists
visit the Igreja Matriz (built after the long journey to this whose work is exhibited here.
in the 17th century), and look at remote coastal village, on the The Igreja Matriz looks modern
the ceiling painting of St Vincent northwest tip of Madeira. but dates from 1430 and contains
blessing the town. He appears Porto Moniz is surrounded by a large ebony and silver tabernacle
again over the elaborately carved a patchwork pattern of tiny fields. donated by Manuel I (see pp50 –51).
main altar, blessing a ship. The fields are protected by fences There is also a fine wooden ceiling.
Around the church, cobbled made from tree heather, a neces-
traffic-free streets are lined with sary precaution against the heavy,  Factory
boutiques, bars and shops selling salt-laden air that blows in off Avenida D. Manuel 1 29, Vila da Calheta.
sweet cakes, including the popu- the Atlantic. Apart from its Tel 291 822 264. Open 8am–8pm daily.
lar Madeiran speciality bolo de mel, picturesque charm, the main E Centro das Artes Casa das
the so-called “honey cake” (actu- attraction at Porto Moniz is the Mudas
ally made with molasses and fruit). series of natural rock pools on Estrada Simão Gonçalves da Câmara 37,
Nearly 20 m (65 ft) below the the foreshore, where you can Calheta. Tel 291 820 900. Open 10am–
ground is a network of caves, swim in sun-warmed water. 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon & public
hols. & ∑ cultura.madeira-edu.pt
Environs
The 15th-century chapel at Loreto,
2 km (1 mile) east of Calheta, has
a Manueline portal and geomet-
rically patterned ceiling. Outside
Estreito da Calheta, 3 km (2 miles)
northwest of Calheta, is Lombo
dos Reis. Here the Capela dos
Reis Magos (Chapel of the Three
Kings) has a lively 16th-century
Flemish altar carving of the
The warm, natural rock pools at Porto Moniz Adoration of the Magi.
MADEIRA  363
Lobos, which peaks at a dramatic

580 m (1,900 ft) above sea level.
A transparent viewing platform
extends over the cliff edge.
o Porto Santo
* 5,000. ~ g n Avenida Dr
Manuel Gregório Pestana Júnior
(291 985 244).
Porto Santo, the island that lies

37 km (23 miles) northeast of
Part of Porto Santo’s splendid sandy beach Madeira, is smaller, flatter and
drier than its sister island. It pos
u Ribeira Brava harbour, where the great states sesses something that Madeira
* 13,500. @ n Forte de São Bento man set up his easels. This is one lacks: a 9km (6mile) beach of
(291 951 675). ( daily. of Madeira’s main centres for golden sand, running the entire
catching scabbard fish (peixe length of the island’s south coast.
Ribeira Brava is a small, attractive espada), which feature on There is a daily ferry service bet
resort town, situated on the sunny every local menu. Long lines ween Funchal and Porto Santo,
south coast of Madeira. It has a are baited with octopus to which takes 2 hours and 30 min
pebble beach and a fishing catch these fish that dwell utes. There are also daily flights,
harbour, which is reached at depths of between shortening the trip to 15 minutes.
through a tunnel to the 800 m (2,600 ft) and Porto Santo is a popular holiday
east of the main town. 1,600 m (5,250 ft). destination. There are five big, but
Overlooking the The fishermen live mostly discreet hotels, and several
principal square, São in dwellings along holiday resorts with villas and
Bento remains one of the the harbour front, apartments. Snorkelling is good
most unspoiled churches and their tiny chapel here and bicycles can be hired.
on Madeira. Despite resto dates from the 15th The one historic site of note on
ration and reconstruction, century, but was the island is the Casa de Colombo
several of its 16thcentury rebuilt in 1723. The (house of Christopher Columbus),
features are still intact. chapel is dedicated to located behind Nossa Senhora da
These include a stone São Bento’s clock tower, St Nicholas, the pat Piedade in Vila Baleira. The restor
carved font and ornate Ribeira Brava ron saint of seafarers, ed house is built from rough
pulpit decorated with and is decorated stone, and contains exhibits that
wild beasts such as wolves, with scenes from the saint’s life, tell Columbus’s story, including
and the Flemish painting of as well as vivid portrayals of maps, paintings and engravings.
the Nativity in the side chapel. The drownings and shipwrecks.
engaging Museu Etnográfico P Casa de Colombo
da Madeira has a collection of Environs Travessa da Sacristia 2, Vila Baleira.
exhibits illustrating Madeiran One of the highest sea cliffs in Tel 291 983 405. Open Tue–Sat &
culture and society. Europe is Cabo Girão, 10 km Sun am. ∑ museucolombo-
(6 miles) west of Câmara de portosanto.com
E Museu Etnográfico da Madeira
Rua São Francisco 24. Tel 291 952
598. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, Christopher Columbus on Porto Santo
10am– 12:30pm & 1:30–5:30pm Sat. Historical records vouch for the fact that
Closed public hols. ∑ cultura. Christopher Columbus came to Madeira
madeira-edu.pt in 1478, probably as an agent for
sugar merchants in his native Italian
town of Genoa. He went to Porto
i Câmara de Lobos Santo to meet Bartolomeu
Perestrelo, also from Genoa and the
* 15,000. @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, island’s governor. There he met
Funchal (291 211 902). ( Mon–Sat. Filipa Moniz, Perestrelo’s daughter.
The two were married in 1479, but
This pretty fishing village was Filipa died soon after while giving
several times painted by Winston birth to their son. Nothing else is
Churchill, who often visited known about Columbus’s visit to
Madeira in the 1950s. Bars and the island, though this has not
restaurants are named in his hon prevented local people from Christopher Colombus by
our and a plaque marks the spot identifying his house. Ridolfo Ghirlandaio (1483–1561)
on the main road, east of the
P O R T U G A L’ S I S L A N D S  365
THE AZORES
Far out in the Atlantic, 1,600 km (1,000 miles) west of Portugal’s mainland, the
nine islands of the Azores are known for their spectacular volcanic scenery,
abundant flora and peaceful way of life. Once wild and remote, they are now
a popular destination for travellers who enjoy walking, sailing and getting
away from it all.
Santa Maria was the first island discovered and close links are maintained with
by the Portuguese in 1427. The archipelago both mainland Portugal and the sizeable
was named after the buzzards the early communities of emigrant Azoreans in
explorers saw flying overhead and mistook the United States and Canada. Many
for goshawks (açores). The islands were emigrants return to their native island
settled during the 15th and 16th centuries for the traditional annual festivals, such
by colonists from Portugal and Flanders as the festas of the Holy Spirit, celebrated
who introduced cattle, maize and vines. in the colourful impérios. With few
The Azores have profited from their far- beaches, a capricious, often wet climate
flung position in the Atlantic. Between and no large-scale resorts, the Azores
1580 and 1640, when Portugal came under have escaped mass tourism. Most
Spanish rule (see pp54 –5), the ports of travellers come here to explore the
Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira and Ponta green mountains embroidered with
Delgada on São Miguel prospered from blue hydrangeas, relax in quiet ports
the trade with the New World. In the 19th adorned with cobbled streets and ele-
century the islands were a regular port of gant Baroque churches, and enjoy the
call for American whaling ships. During UNESCO World Heritage Sites, such as
the 20th century they have benefited the fajãs of São Jorge. Once a brave new
from their use as stations for transatlantic world of pioneer communities, the
cable companies, meteorological Azores are now an autonomous region
observatories and military air bases. of Portugal and an exotic corner of the
Today the majority of islanders are European Union, where life remains
involved in either dairy farming or fishing, refreshingly civil and unhurried.
Small fishing boats on the quayside at Lajes do Pico on the southern coast of Pico
Lush vegetation around the Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Seven Cities Lagoon)
Exploring the Azores

The islands of the Azores are spread 650 km (400 miles) apart and fall into three
distinct groups. In the east lie Santa Maria and São Miguel, the largest island and
home to the regional capital, Ponta Delgada. The main towns in the central group
of five islands are Horta on Faial, a popular stopover port for boats crossing the
Atlantic, and Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira, a charming, historic town. From here
visitors can travel to the other islands of São Jorge,
Graciosa and Pico, the last dominated by a
towering volcanic peak 2,350 m (7,700 ft) high.
Further west lie the remote, weather-beaten
CORVO islands of Flores and Corvo.
Vila do Corvo
Ponta Delgada
Fajã
Grande Santa Cruz Santa Cruz
das Flores da Graciosa
Fajãzinha Praia
FLORES
GRACIOSA
Luz
Lajes
Pico da Velha
495m
Velas
FAIAL Cedros SÃO JORGE
Manadas
Sights at a Glance Cabeço Gordo Calheta
Capelo 1045m
1 São Miguel pp368–9 Horta
Topo
2 Santa Maria Madalena Santo
São Roque do Pico
Antão
3 Terceira Candelária Pico Alto
2350m
4 Graciosa Piedade
São Mateus
5 São Jorge
6 Pico PICO Lajes do Pico
7 Faial
8 Flores
9 Corvo
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 10
Distances between island groups are not shown to scale
Key
Major road
Minor road
Motorway
Scenic route
Summit
Walking among Pico’s black volcanic lava rock

THE AZORES  367
Getting Around
São Miguel, Santa Maria, Pico, Faial and Terceira have airports, and
the local airline, Azores Airlines, flies between all the islands. A
THE AZORES
year-round car and ferry service runs between Faial and Pico (www.
atlanticoline.pt). Between April and September, it also connects with
São Jorge to Terceira. Less frequent are sailings between São Miguel
and Santa Maria, Graciosa and Flores. However, a regular operation MADEIRA
exists between Flores and Corvo. All ferry services are subject to the
weather. Bus services on the islands are designed for the locals and
therefore not always practical for tourists. Car hire is more convenient
and available on all islands except Corvo. (See also p447.)
Transatlantic sailing boat moored in Faial’s fine

marina at Horta
Biscoitos
Serra de Santa Bárbara

1022m Praia da Vitória
Santa Bárbara Angra do Heroísmo, capital of Terceira
São Mateus Angra do Heroísmo
TERCEIRA
Sete Cidades Porto Nordeste

Ribeira
Grande Formoso
Capelas
Candelária Furnas
Lagoa Povoação
Ponta
Delgada Vila Franca
do Campo
SÃO MIGUEL
SANTA MARIA
Anjos Santa
Bárbara
Ponta Delgada’s elegant waterfront, São Miguel Vila do Porto
1 São Miguel West of the Island

The northwest of São Miguel is
With its historic maritime capital, rich green fields and dramatic punctured by a giant volcanic
volcanic scenery, this ilha verde (green island) provides a crater, Lagoa das Sete Cidades,
rewarding introduction to the Azores. The largest and most with a 12-km (7-mile) circum-
ference. In places its sheer walls
populated of the archipelago’s nine islands, São Miguel is
drop like green curtains for
65 km (40 miles) long and was originally two separate islands. 300 m (1,000 ft). When not
The capital, Ponta Delgada, is a good base from which to make obscured by cloud, the crater is
day tours of the rugged coast or visit the volcanic crater lakes best seen from the viewpoint of
and steaming thermal springs in the interior of the island. Vista do Rei from where a walk
leads west around its rim. The
crater floor contains the small
village of Sete Cidades and four
dark green lakes. The crater seen
today is believed to have been
formed in the 1440s when an
eruption destroyed the volcanic
peak that had formed the
western part of the island. In
contrast to the lush vegetation
that covers the crater now, the
first settlers described the area
as a burnt-out shell.
The main town on the north
coast, Ribeira Grande has a small
The 18th-century city gates leading onto Ponta Delgada’s central square Museu Municipal housed in the
restored 17th-century Solar de
Ponta Delgada the festival of Santo Cristo dos São Vicente. Azulejos from the
Lined with many impressive Milagres on the fifth Sunday after 16th to 20th century are on dis-
churches, convents and trim Easter. A statue of Christ, wearing play and in other rooms the
white houses, the cobbled streets a red robe decorated with crafts and rural lifestyle of the
of the Azorean capital recall the sumptuous diamond and gold islanders are recorded, including
wealthy days when the port was ornaments, leads the procession a period barber’s shop rescued
a crucial staging post between through the streets. The statue from Ponta Delgada.
Europe and the New World (see can be seen in the lower church
pp52–3). Its hub is the arcaded along with other religious E Museu Municipal
Praça de Gonçalo Velho Cabral, treasures, including reliquaries Rua São Vicente Ferreira 10,
named after the first captain- and jewels. Colourful tiles, Ribeira Grande. Tel 296 472 118.
donee of the island in 1444, dating from the 18th century, Open 9am–12:30pm & 1:30–5pm
which looks out onto the seafront. by António de Oliveira Bernardes Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
It is dominated by three imposing (see p30) decorate the choir.
arches, dating from 1783, that The Museu Carlos Machado,
once marked the entrance to the in the former monastery of Mosteiros
city. To the north, in Largo da Santo André, spotlights the local
Matriz, stands the parish church fishing and farming industries.
of São Sebastião. Founded in 1533 Of particular interest are the Sete Cidades
CALDEIRA DAS SETE
it has a graceful Manueline portal paintings by Domingos Rebelo
intricately carved in limestone. (1891–1975) showing scenes of J
Capelas
The sacristy is decorated with Azorean life. The natural history VISTA DO
REI
azulejo panels and beautiful wing is packed with an encyclo-
17th-century furniture made pedic array of stuffed animals,
of jacaranda wood from Brazil. varnished fish, skeletons and a
A short walk west lies the large relief model of the island.
Praça 5 de Outubro, a shaded, The museum’s Núcleo de Arte
tree-lined square overlooked by Sacra is housed in the nearby
the Forte de São Brás. This Igreja do Colégio.
Ponta
Renaissance fortress, built on a Delgada
spur overlooking the sea, was E Museu Carlos Machado
greatly restored in the 19th Rua Dr Carlos Machado. Tel 296 202
century. Also on the square, the 930. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5:30pm Key
immense Convento da Esperança Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm.
Main road
becomes the focus of intense Closed public hols. & ∑ museu
carlosmachado.azores.gov.pt Other road
festivities when the city celebrates
THE AZORES  369
* 138,000. n Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada
(296 308 625). _ 5th Sun after
Easter: Santo Cristo dos Milagres
(Ponta Delgada); Festas do
Espìrito Santo (see p372).
∑ visitazores.com
Transport
k 3 km (2 miles) W of Ponta
Delgada. g @ Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada.
stew is cooked underground

Turquoise waters of the crater lake, Lagoa do Fogo for up to six hours.
The far east of São Miguel is a
East of the Island collection of mature trees and beautiful area of deep valleys.
The Lagoa do Fogo, “Lake of Fire”, plants, including hibiscus and Two immaculately kept view-
was formed in the island’s hydrangeas, as well as a bizarre points, Miradouro da Ponta do
central mountains by a volcanic swimming pool with warm, Sossego and Miradouro da
eruption in 1563. On sunny days mustard-coloured water. Ponta da Madrugada, have fine
its remote sandy beach is a The volcanic ground on gardens – the latter is a popular
tranquil picnic spot. the northern shores of the spot for watching the sunrise.
Further east, the spa resort Lagoa das Furnas, 4 km (2 miles)
area of Furnas is the perfect south, is so hot the islanders } Caldeiras das Furnas
place to admire the geothermal come here to cook cozido. Off R1-1. n Rua Dr Frederico Moniz
activity taking place beneath The rich meat and vegetable Pereira 15. Tel 296 584 525.
the surface of the Azores (see
pp344–5). Scattered around the
town are the Caldeiras das
Furnas where visitors will see
the hot bubbling springs that
provide the therapeutic mud
and mineral water used for the
spa’s treatments. In the 18th
century, Thomas Hickling, a
prosperous merchant from
Boston, laid out gardens in
Furnas which have now grown
into the glorious Parque Terra
Nostra. Covering 12 ha (30 acres),
the gardens have a rich Pristine gardens and picnic area of the Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada
Santana
Ribeira Grande Porto

Formoso Nordeste
J
MIRADOURO DE SOSSEGO
J Furnas MIRADOURO DA MADRUGADA

J
LAGOA DO LAGOA DAS FURNAS

Remédios FOGO
Povoaçāo
Lagoa
Água de Pau
Ribeira Quente
Vila Franca do Campo 0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5

3 Terceira
* 56,000. k 3 km (2 miles) NW of
Praia da Vitória. g Angra do Heroísmo,
Praia da Vitória. @ Avenida 1° de Maio,
Angra do Heroísmo. n Rua Direita
70–74, Angra do Heroísmo (295 213
393) Praia da Vitória Aerogare Civil
das Lajes (295 513 140). _ Festas
do Espírito Santo (see p372); late Jun:
Festas de São João; first week in Aug:
Festas da Praia. ∑ visitazores.com
Terceira, meaning “third” in

Portuguese, is so named
because it was the third island
to be discovered, in 1427.
It is the most developed
of the five central islands – a
result in part of the large
Americanrun airbase that
has been operating at Lajes
since World War II. It is
renowned for the brightly
painted chapels (impérios)
devoted to the cult of the Holy
Spirit (see p372). Terceira’s
interior is mainly green
The wide bay of São Lourenço on Santa Maria pastureland and laurel forest,
while the coast has barren
2 Santa Maria is on the south coast and areas of black lava.
* 5,500. ~ 3 km (2 miles) NW of consists of a long main street
Vila do Porto. g Vila do Porto. that runs down to a small
@ Rua Dr Luís Bettencourt, Vila do harbour. The west of the island
Porto. n Aeroporto de Santa Maria, is a dry, flat plateau with a vast
Vila do Porto (296 886 355). _ Festas airstrip built in World War II.
do Espírito Santo (see p372); 15 Aug: To the north lies the fishing
Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Vila do town of Anjos, where a statue
Porto). ∑ visitazores.com commemorates a visit made
by Christopher Columbus in
Lying 55 km (34 miles) south 1493 on his return from dis
of São Miguel, Santa Maria was covering the New World. Next
the first island in the archi to it, the small, whitewashed
pelago to be discovered by chapel of Nossa Senhora dos
the Portuguese around 1427. Anjos is the oldest in the Azores.
Though only 17 km (11 miles) The highest point of Santa The brightly coloured Imperio of Sao
long, it has great scenic variety Maria is the central Pico Alto, Sebastiao in Terceira
and boasts sandy beaches, 590 m (1,935 ft) above sea
tranquil countryside and the level, which on a clear day Angra do Heroísmo
warmest climate in the Azores. offers fine views over the green This attractive and historic town
The island’s capital, Vila do Porto, and hilly east side of the island. was declared a UNESCO World
Towards the east coast, Heritage site in 1983, in
the village of Santo recognition of the strategic role
Espírito is worth visiting the port has played in the
for the white Baroque Atlantic. For over three centuries
façade of its church the town was a stopover point
of Nossa Senhora da on the routes between Europe,
Purificação adorned America and Africa. It was here
with black lava decor in 1499 that Vasco da Gama (see
ation, while the vine p110) buried his brother Paulo
covered halfcrater of after their pioneering journey
Baía de São Lourenço, to India, and in the early 17th
north of here, is a century its harbour glittered with
Nossa Senhora da Purificação studded with black basalt delightful summer Spanish fleets returning laden
in Santo Espírito, Santa Maria beach resort. with treasure from the Americas.
THE AZORES  371
The 16th-century Sé (cathedral) at the centre of Terceira’s capital, Angra do Heroísmo
Maria II gave the town its name Around the Island takes its name from the rubble
for the bravery (heroísmo) it demon Terceira is a large, ovalshaped of biscuitlike lava spread along
strated during the struggles for island with a gentle green interior the shore. Exhilarating swimming
Liberalism in the early 19th of forested hills and farmland. Its pools, popular in the summer,
century (see pp58–9). Despite centre bears witness to its have been created amongst the
the severe damage caused volcanic origins: the rocks. The area is also known for
by an earthquake in 1980, Caldeira de Guilherme its wine, and the land is covered
the city’s wealthy past is Moniz is an eroded crater in a chessboard of stonewalled
reflected in the pretty 3 km (2 miles) wide and pens (curraletas) built to shelter
streets lined with one of the largest in the vines. The friendly Museu do
monumental churches Azores. Nearby, the Vinho dos Biscoitos explains
and balconied houses. Algar do Carvão is a the simple production methods
The most spectacular dramatic volcanic blast used to produce the rich verdelho
view of the harbour is hole, thick with dripping wine that was once exported to
from Monte Brasil, a moss where visitors can the Russian court, and provides
volcanic crater on the tour an enormous an opportunity to taste and
western side of the bay. subterranean cave. West purchase today’s vintages.
Beside this popular pic of here, the Furna do
nic spot stands the fort, Wooden John Enxofre are hot } Algar do Carvão
Fortaleza de São João the Baptist, steaming fumaroles Off R52. Tel 295 212 992. Open Apr–
Baptista, built during Museu de Angra where the heavy sul May: 3–5:30pm daily; Jun & Sep: 2:30–
Spain’s annexation of phur vapours crystallize 5:45pm daily; Jul & Aug: 2–6pm daily;
Portugal (see pp54–5) as a treasure into brightly coloured formations. Oct–Mar: 3–5pm Mon, Wed & Fri &
store, and still in military use. A Two viewpoints overlooking E Museu do Vinho
second rewarding viewpoint is the island can be reached by Canada do Caldeiro 3. Tel 965 667 324.
from the Alto da Memória at the car: in the west, a road bordered Open May–Sep: 10–11am, 1–5:30pm
south end of Rua São João de with blue hydrangeas winds up Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 1:30–4pm Tue–Sat.
Deus, from where the twin through the Serra de
towers of the 16thcentury Sé Santa Bárbara to a vast
(restored after a fire in 1983) are lonely crater at 1,022 m
easily seen. A path leads down (3,353 ft), while the
into the Jardim Duque da Terceira, eastern Serra do Cume,
the city’s restful public gardens. at 545 m (1,788 ft),
These once formed part of the overlooks the airport and
15thcentury Convento de São Praia da Vitória. This port
Francisco which now houses the has a large bay with a
Museu de Angra do Heroísmo. sandy beach. Its name
The museum’s exhibits reflect pays tribute to a famous
the history of the Azores and victory in 1829 by Liberal
the city and include armour, forces loyal to Pedro IV
maps, paintings and sculptures. over the Absolutists, led
by Miguel, during the
E Museu de Angra do Heroísmo Portuguese Civil War –
Ladeira de São Francisco. Tel 295 240 the socalled War of the
800. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue– Two Brothers. On the
Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. north coast, Biscoitos Patchwork of stone-walled fields in the northeast of
Closed pub hols. 7 (which means “biscuits”) Terceira, near Praia da Vitória
The Holy Spirit Festivals

Festivals are a vibrant feature of life in the Azores and have helped foster the deep sense
of community that is a hallmark of the islands’ culture. Emigrants and relatives from
North America and mainland Portugal often return to their native island to celebrate the
most popular festas.
The islands’ most traditional festivals are associated with the Holy Spirit (Festas do
Espírito Santo). Brought to the Azores by the first Portuguese settlers, who called upon
the Holy Spirit to protect them against natural disasters, the rituals have remained
almost unchanged. An “emperor”, often a child, is crowned in the parish church. With a
sceptre and a crown on a silver plate and a scarlet flag with a white dove as insignia of
the Holy Spirit, the “emperor” presides over the festivities that take place each Sunday for
seven weeks after Easter. The seventh Sunday, Whit Sunday, is the day of Pentecost when
Christ’s disciples were filled with the Holy Spirit, and is the occasion of a great feast.
The distribution of
bread for the Festival of
the Holy Spirit originates
in the donation of food to
the poor introduced by
saintly Queen Isabel (see
p49). On the last day of
celebrations, the seventh
Sunday after Easter, a Holy
Spirit soup is made from
beef and vegetables and
is handed out along with
bread to everyone outside
the local império.
The Impérios of the Holy Spirit
Império with Gothic windows in Praia Flamboyantly decorated império in Simple império in Terra Chã,
da Vitória, Terceira (1941) São Sebastião, Terceira (1918) Terceira (1954)
The focus of the ceremonies is a small chapel or

império (empire) which is used for the distribution of
the Holy Spirit soup on the seventh Sunday. Here, the
emperor’s crown, sceptre, plate and flag are displayed
on the altar on the last day of the festivities. On
Terceira, where the cult of the Holy Spirit is particularly
strong, many of the 68 impérios are painted in bright
colours every spring. Up to 500 islanders gather for a
village feast accompanied by dancing, brass bands
and lavish floral displays. In many places a tourada à
corda will be held, where a bull, tied to the end of a An emperor’s crown on ceremonial display in an
long rope, is let loose in the street. império on São Miguel
THE AZORES  373
Above the cave, at Furna Maria wide. On its north coast, sheer
Encantada, a natural tunnel leads cliffs drop 480 m (1,575 ft) to the
to the edge of the crater, offering sea. Over the centuries these cliffs
stunning views over the island. have collapsed in places, creating
Treatments using the island’s tongues of land known as fajãs-
geothermal waters are available recognized by UNESCO as
at the coastal resort of Carapacho, Biosphere Reserves. It was on
at the foot of the volcano. these coastal promontories that
the island’s Flemish colonists first
E Museu da Graciosa settled in the mid-15th century.
Traditional ox-drawn cart on the Largo Conde de Simas 17, Santa Cruz. Today many islanders on São
island of Graciosa Tel 295 712 429. Open 9am–12.30pm & Jorge are engaged in the pro-
2–5:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed pub hols. duction of a cured cheese, Queijo
4 Graciosa & de São Jorge. The pace of life is
* 4,500. ~ 2 km (1 mile) W of Santa } Furna do Enxofre leisurely, and most visitors come
Cruz da Graciosa. g Praia de São 2 km (1 mile) E of Luz, follow signs to to enjoy the walking along the
Mateus. n Praça Fontes Pereira de Caldeira. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm paths that climb between the
Melo, Santas Cruz (295 712 888). daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, fajãs. The most popular route is in
_ Festas do Espírito Santo; Aug: 2–5:30pm Sat. & the northeast of the island from
Santo Cristo. ∑ visitazores.com Serra do Topo 10 km (6 miles)
down to Fajã dos Cubres.
Graciosa Island is one of the most Most of the settlements lie
peaceful places in the Azores along the gentler south coast,
and is classified by UNESCO as a including the capital, Velas, and
Biosphere reserve. Only 12.5 km Calheta, where the Museu
(8 miles) long, most of its low- Francisco de Lacerda displays
lying land is given over to farms objects of local history such as
and vineyards where ox- drawn the ornate breads baked for the
carts and ploughs are still in use. Holy Spirit festival, a honey press,
The capital, Santa Cruz da agricultural utensils and religious
Graciosa, on the northern coast, sculptures. West of Calheta, in the
has a simple quayside backed pretty parish of Manadas, the
by rows of stark, two-storey, 18th-century church of Santa
whitewashed houses with Bárbara has an atmospheric
wrought-iron balconies and oval carved and painted interior. In
windows. The expanded Museu Santa Cruz da Graciosa overlooking Urzelina, 2 km (1 mile) further
da Graciosa recalls life on this the island west, the tower of a church
sleepy island with a homely buried by lava in 1808 protrudes
miscellany of toys, sea chests, 5 São Jorge defiantly from the ground. In
kitchenware, wine presses, * 9,000. ~ 7 km (4 miles) E of Velas. the west of the island there is a
furniture and mementos sent g Velas & Calheta. n Rua pleasant forested picnic area at
back by emigrants to North Conselheiro Dr José Pereira 1, Velas Sete Fontes, and on a clear day
America. A building next door (295 412 440). _ 23 Apr: Festa de São the nearby summit of Pico da
houses a whaling boat (see pp374–5). Jorge; Festas do Espírito Santo; Jul: Velha offers superb views of the
The picturesque Monte da Semana Cultural de Velas (Velas). central Azorean islands.
Ajuda that rises behind the town ∑ visitazores.com
is capped by a 16th-century E Museu Francisco de Lacerda
fortified chapel, Nossa Senhora São Jorge is a mountainous Rua José Azevedo da Cunha, Calheta.
da Ajuda, decorated with 18th- island that stretches for 55 km Tel 295 416 323. Open 9am–5.30pm
century tiles. Nearby, a small vigia (34 miles) but is only 8 km (5 miles) Mon–Fri. Closed public hols. &
(whalers’ lookout) faces the sea.
In the southeast lies the island’s
principal sight, Furna do Enxofre,
where visitors can descend
flights of steps into the bowels of
a volcanic crater. At the bottom
is a huge cave with a deep,
sulphurous lake and peep-holes
where bubbling brews of evil
grey liquid can be spied beneath
the rocks. The best time to visit
is late morning when the sun
shines through the small cave
mouth and lights the interior. Dramatic cliffs along the north coast of São Jorge
6 Pico the Atlantic, shooting up

* 13,000. ~ 8 km (5 miles) E of 2,350 m (7,700 ft) to form
Madalena. g Madalena. @ Avenida the summit of the greatest
Machado Serpa, Madalena. n Gare mountain range in the
Marítima, Madalena (292 623 524). world, the Mid-Atlantic
_ Festas do Espìrito Santo (see p372); Ridge (see pp344–5).
22 Jul: Santa Maria Madalena, Semana The island’s largest
dos Baleeiros. ∑ visitazores.com town, Madalena, is a
relaxed port that lies
The majesty of Pico, the highest opposite Faial’s capital,
mountain in Portugal, becomes Horta. A regular ferry
apparent when it is seen from the service crosses the 8 km
neighbouring central islands. Only (5 miles) between the two
then does one realize how grace- islands, making a day trip
fully this volcanic peak soars out of feasible. The entrance to
the harbour is guarded
by two rocks, Em Pé The summit of Pico’s volcano
(standing) and Deitado
(lying down) where colonies of The other main draw to Pico in
birds have made their home. summer is whale watching. From
Many people come to Pico to Lajes do Pico groups are taken
climb its eponymous peak. It is out in small boats for three-hour
a strenuous climb, best done trips organized by companies
alongside a guide, and advance such as Espaço Talassa. They are
permission is needed. At 1,100 m guided by radio messages from
(3,608 ft), the Casa da Montanha men who scan the sea for a
offers refuge and support to hikers fluke (tail) from the former vigias
Rustic house and well on Pico made from and climbers. For further details, (lookouts). The history of Azorean
black lava rocks contact the tourist offices. whaling is recalled at the Museu
In Pursuit of the Whale

Every summer the waters around
the Azores are visited by a great
variety of whales and dolphins.
Until 1984 whaling was a
traditional part of Azorean life – in
the 18th century American whaling
vessels frequently called here to pick
up crew for their expeditions, and from
the 1870s the Azoreans took up large-scale Scrimshaws are carvings made on
hunting in their own waters. Flags were waved from the teeth and bones of whales and
often depict whaling scenes. This
clifftop vigias (lookouts) giving coded directions so fine example from the Museu do
that other villagers would not get to the prize first. Scrimshau on Faial (see p376) shows
Since whaling was banned in the 1980s, the Azoreans the long, narrow boats called canoas
have applied their knowledge gained from hunting to that could hold up to seven men.
whale watching and conservation.
Whale watching today
takes place in small boats
that allow fast and safe
access to the whales. As well
as trips out to sea, the whales
can be observed from the
vigias. These land-based
towers afford spectacular
views of the whales in
their natural habitat.
Expeditions run from Faial,
Pico, Graciosa, Terceira and
São Miguel (see p368).
THE AZORES  375
 Espaço Talassa
dos Baleeiros, also in Lajes, where has been a revival of viniculture
Rua do Saco, Lajes. Tel 292 672 010.
boats, tackle and whalebone on the island, with the produc-
Boat trips: Apr–Sep. & =
artifacts are displayed. The tion of new reds and whites,
∑ espacotalassa.com
whales were processed at a vast such as the acclaimed Arinto
factory (closed down in 1984) on dos Açores. This gives visitors a E Museu dos Baleeiros
the north side of the island, at São refined alternative to the Rua dos Baleeiros 13, Lajes. Tel 292 679
Roque do Pico. The factory has ubiquitous vinho de cheiro (wine 340. Open May–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
been preserved as a piece of of smell) traditionally drunk by Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9:30am–5pm. &
industrial heritage now housing the Azoreans.  Museu da Indústria Baleeira
the Museu da Indústria Baleeira. Rua do Poço, São Roque do Pico.
A coastal road encircles Pico, E Visitor’s Centre
Tel 292 642 096. Open May–Oct:
offering a slow drive that reveals Lajido. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr:
the charm of this island. Minor daily; Oct–May: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–5pm. Closed public hols.
eruptions have covered parts of 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun. & & (free on Sun).
its landscape with black mole-
hills of lava that the islanders
christened mistérios (mysteries).
The black lava has been used to
build houses and grids of stone
walls that enclose fields or
shelter vines. In some places,
notably around Cachorro on the
north coast, the eroded lava has
formed curious arches in the sea.
The island vineyards are a
UNESCO World Heritage site.
A visitor’s centre explains Pico’s
viniculture, featuring the
famous Verdelho wine. There West coast of Pico with Faial in the distance
Marine Life in the Azores

Some 28 species of cetaceans have been sighted in the waters of the
Azores. These warm-blooded animals follow the warm currents of
the Gulf Stream to feed in the region’s abundant, unpolluted waters.
Schools of playful and gregarious dolphins are often seen scything
through the waves at incredible speeds, but the most impressive
sights are sperm whales. These large, sociable animals dive to
great depths for giant squid and live in family groups called pods.
Like all whales and dolphins they must come to the
surface to breathe and this is when whale-watching Atlantic spotted dolphins, fast and
expeditions make their sightings. graceful swimmers
Sperm whales are huge, tear-shaped creatures, the largest of

the toothed whales. They can be seen breaching (diving out Pilot whales belong to the dolphin
of the water), spy hopping (raising their head to have a look family and are recognizable from
around) and socializing by rubbing bodies. their strong blow of up to 1 m (3 ft).
Risso’s dolphins have a squat Bottlenose dolphins are Loggerhead turtles, born
head and light grey colouring. the best known. These playful on Florida’s beaches, are
Older ones are often crisscrossed animals love to ride the waves at frequent visitors to the
with white scars. the bow of a moving vessel. warm Azorean waters.
Transatlantic yachts moored in the marina at Horta, Faial, with the pointed summit of Pico in the distance
7 Faial engraved whales’ bones and Around the Island

* 15,000. ~ 10 km (6 miles) SW of teeth dating back to 1884 (see Two viewpoints overlook Horta
Horta. g Horta. @ Rua Vasco da p374). In the Museu da Horta – to its south rises the volcanic
Gama, Horta. n Rua Vasco da Gama, displays of antique furniture, peak of Monte da Guia, while
Horta (292 292 237). _ Festas do portraits, nautical memorabilia the northern Miradouro da
Espírito Santo (see p372); 1st–2nd and nostalgic photographs of Espalamaca is guarded by a
Sun in Aug: Semana do Mar (Horta). the island’s port are upstaged by huge statue of Nossa Senhora
∑ visitazores.com miniature sculptures of liners da Conceição. If the cloud cover
and scenes of permits, it is well
Faial was settled by Flemish daily life, pain worth driving 15
farmers in the 15th century stakingly carved km (9 miles) to
and prospered with the devel from the white see Faial’s central
opment of Horta harbour as a pith of fig trees. Caldeira – a vast
stopover for ships and – more These virtuoso Ship’s calling card on the quayside green crater 2 km
recently – flying boats crossing examples of a in Horta, Faial (1 mile) wide and
the Atlantic. Today it is a fertile traditional island 400 m (1,300 ft)
island with an international craft are by the Faialborn deep. The path winding around
atmosphere and a mild climate, Euclides Silveira da Rosa (1910–79). its rim takes about two hours to
famous as a yachting destin walk and has magnificent views.
ation and for the endless rows  Peter’s Café Sport Faial’s other spectacular
of colourful hydrangeas that Rua José Azevedo 9. Tel 292 292 327. natural sight is the Vulcão dos
bloom in June and July. ∑ petercafesport.com; Capelinhos in the far west of
∑ whalewatchazores.com the island. A volcano erupted
Horta here in 1957–8, smothering a
E Museu de Scrimshaw
Stretching around a wide bay, lighthouse which can now be
Peter’s Café Sport, Rua José Azevedo 9.
Faial’s capital has been a con seen buried in ash. Around it
Tel 292 292 327. Open Mon–Sat. &
venient anchorage for caravels, lies a scorched and barren
clippers and sea planes over E Museu da Horta landscape that has, not surpris
the centuries. Captain Cook Largo Duque D’Ávila e Bolama. Tel 292 ingly, been used as the location
commented on Horta’s fine 392 784. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–5:30pm for a German postnuclear
houses and gardens when Tue–Sun; Oct–May: 9:30am–5pm holocaust film. The story of the
he called here in 1775. Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & eruption is told in the nearby
Today, visiting crews Centro de Interpretação do
crossing between Vulcão dos Capelinhos, where
the Caribbean and multimedia displays trace the
Mediterranean paint area’s geological activity. Also
a calling card on shown are the lava formations
the quayside and cele created in the eruption.
brate their safe passage
in Peter’s Café Sport, E Centro de Interpretação do
which overlooks the Vulcão dos Capelinhos
harbour. In the upstairs Farol dos Capelinhos. Tel 292 200 470.
rooms of the café, an Open Jun–Sep: 10am–6pm daily;
engrossing Museu do Barren ash-covered volcanic landscape at Capelinhos, Oct–May: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
Scrimshaw exhibits the westernmost point of Faial 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun. 8
THE AZORES  377
8 Flores
* 3,800. ~ 1km (half a mile) N of
Santa Cruz. g Lajes. @ Centro de
Saúde, Santa Cruz. n Rua Dr Armas
da Silveira 1, Santa Cruz (292 592 369).
_ Festas do Espírito Santo (see p372);
24–26 Jun: Festas de São João (hols:
am). ∑ visitazores.com
Often cut off by stormy weather,

the island of “Flowers” is a romantic
outpost that was not permanently
settled until the 16th century. A
notorious hideout for pirates
waiting to raid the treasure-laden
Spanish galleons on their return
to Europe, Flores was the scene of
an epic battle in 1591 between
the ship of the English comm-
ander Sir Richard Grenville and a
fleet of Spanish ships. The battle Hydrangeas growing in the mountains of Flores
was immortalized in a poem by
Alfred Tennyson, The Revenge punctuated with dramatic peaks, divides into smaller waterfalls
(the name of Grenville’s ship). volcanic crater lakes and caves. before collecting in a still pool.
This westernmost island of the Yams and sweet potatoes grow
Azores is a UNESCO listed in the fertile soil. The tranquil E Museu da Fábrica da
Biosphere Reserve. Its name Lagoa Funda, 25 km (16 miles) Baleia do Boqueirão
derives from the abundance of southwest of Santa Cruz, is a lake Rua do Boqueirão. Tel 291 542 932.
flowers growing in its ravines. The at the base of a mountain. Visible Open Jun–Sep: 9am–5:30pm Mon–
capital, Santa Cruz, is enlivened by from the main road just west of Fri, 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun; Oct–May:
the Museu da Fábrica da Baleia the lake are the vertical rock form- 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30 Mon–Fri,
2–5:30pm Sun. &
do Boquerirão, a museum dedi- ations of the Rocha dos Bordões
cated to the island’s whaling formed by solidified basalt. E Museu das Flores
heritage, and the Museu das The winding road continues Edificio do Convento de São
Flores, housed in the former northwards over the mountains Boaventura. Tel 292 592 159. Open
Franciscan convent. Its displays and, as the road descends towards 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
include shipwreck finds, Azorean the west coast, there are stunning Closed public hols. &
pottery, furniture and agricultural views of the green valley and
tools, as well as fishing rods and a village of Fajãzinha. The resort of
guitar made from whalebone. Fajã Grande, ringed by cliffs, is a 9 Corvo
The convent church of São popular base for walkers and * 430. ~ g Vila do Corvo. @ Rua
Boaventura, erected in 1641, has a impressive waterfalls plunge into da Matriz, Vila do Corvo. n Câmara
beautiful carved cedarwood the sea from the high cliffs. A Municipal, Rua J da Bola, Vila do Corvo
chancel. The southern half of the short walk north from the town (292 590 200). _ Festas do Espírito
island is the most scenic. The is the Cascata da Ribeira Grande, Santo (see p372). ∑ visitazores.com
deep, verdant valleys are a towering jet of water that
Corvo lies 24 km (15 miles) north-
west of Flores. The smallest island
in the Azores, it has just one
settlement, Vila do Corvo, and is
blissfully undeveloped, with only
one hotel and a few restaurants.
The entire island is the blown top
of a marine volcano. A green
crater, the Lagoa do Caldeirão,
squats at its northern end. Its rim
can be reached by road, after
which there is a steep descent
down to the crater floor 300 m
(984 ft) below. In its centre, the
crater is dotted with serene lakes
and islands. Corvo has recorded
an large variety of birdlife during
A scenic aerial view of the Rasa and Funda lagoons the autumn migration.
Travellers’
needs
Where to Stay 380–395

Where to Eat and Drink 396–415
Shopping in Portugal 416–419
Entertainment in Portugal 420–421
Sporting Holidays and
Outdoor Activities 422–427
380  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Luxury five-star hotels, and many four- Porto, a boutique hotel in Lisbon or a
star properties, in Portugal often include luxurious all inclusive resort in Funchal,
spas and multi-swimming pools, notable Portugal has a wonderfully eclectic range
restaurants (some of which are Michelin- of options. Advance booking is essential
starred) and are usually furnished with and most rooms are cheaper outside
high tech digital gadgetry. In essence, high season. The hotels listed on pages
choosing a place to stay is as much about 386–95 have been selected from every
a lifestyle choice as it is finding a room price category and represent the best
for the night. Whether it’s a chic B&B in value in each area.
Types of Hotel which means that their facilities

Lodgings in Portugal come are on the same level as those
at all levels of comfort and of four- or five-star hotels.
cost but are classified into
two main categories by the
Portuguese tourist authority: Pousadas
hotels and pensões. Hotels Pousadas are a special type of
are often purpose-built and lodgings – you can find more
take up an entire building. information on pages 384–5.
Pensões are always housed They come in four categories:
in shared premises, typically historic, historic design, charm
occupying several floors of and nature. Historic pousadas
a residential building. are housed in converted castles,
All hotels and pensões are convents or palaces, and they
meant to provide meals. If they offer excellent service and
offer only breakfast, their name luxury accommodation, as well
must have residencial added to as a memorable historical and
it, although not all residencials architectural ambience. The The façade of the fashionable Hotel
offer breakfast. It is always best other types of pousadas are Palácio, Estoril (see p388)
to check, since there are many country inns offering a high
lodgings that operate without level of comfort and are often Chain Hotels
classification. Aparthotels are located in scenic, sometimes Portugal has a range of chain
essentially hotels with self- remote, areas. With the hotels in all price categories.
catering apartments, offering exception of two mountain inns International luxury groups
most or all of the services that in Madeira that use the word such as Le Meridien and
normal hotels do. “pousada” in their names, all Belmond are well represented
Estalagens (estalagem in the pousadas are state-owned and in the Algarve and Madeira.
singular) are usually located run as a chain by Pestana. Smaller luxury groups include
outside of city centres and must Detailed information on these Tivoli Hotels – with three
have a garden. Albergarias are can be found on the Pousadas hotels in Lisbon, two in Sintra,
the top category of pensão, de Portugal website. five in the Algarve and one
in Coimbra – and the Pestana
group, with ten hotels in
Madeira, nine in the Algarve,
two in Lisbon and one each in
Cascais, Porto and Sintra.
Lower down the scale, Choice
Hotels operates a number of
hotels in its Comfort Inn and
Quality Inn categories in the
Lisbon area and the north of the
country, while Best Western
and Sana Hotels have several
hotels countrywide. Ibis hotels
are also well represented, with
properties that are frequently
located outside cities and
towns, and they offer very
Swimming pool in a splendid setting at Tivoli Carvoeiro in Carvoeiro, Algarve (see p394) good value for money.
The interior of the Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, Lisbon
W H E R E TO S TAY  381
Gradings
The Portuguese tourist
authority rates hotels with one
to five stars, five being the top
rating. A one-star hotel is
known as a pensaõ, which in
turn is rated in one of four
categories: albergaria being
the top one, followed by First
to Third categories. Apart-
hotels are also rated from one
to five stars. These ratings are
based on a fixed set of criteria
that covers most aspects of
comfort. They do not,
however, take into account
more subjective factors such
as view, atmosphere or the View from the Tivoli Palácio de Seteais, a luxury hotel in Sintra (see p388)
professionalism of the staff.
It is important to remember extras. It is sometimes possible Algarve and around the Estoril
that hotels and pensões are to bargain for a better rate, coast is mass-booked by tour
rated separately from top to especially outside the high operators. For Madeira, Lisbon
bottom. In other words, a one- season. As a rule, the cost of and Porto, it is best to book
or two-star hotel will always a single room is around 60 to ahead regardless of the season,
have a lower level of comfort – 75 per cent of the cost of a as these are popular tourist
and lower prices – than an double room. cities. Nearly all establishments
albergaria or even a first- Tourist areas, such as the have a website that accomm-
category pensão. The grading Algarve and Estoril coasts, odation can be booked
system is quite strict, and all Madeira and the Azores, can through, but most receptionists
rated establishments should be expensive. However, prices speak English so it is also
have a sign by the entrance drop substantially outside the possible to book by phone.
showing their rating. peak summer months. Like many Pousadas can be booked
European cities, many business- through Pestana or via the
oriented hotels in Lisbon and Pousadas de Portugal website.
Prices Porto charge the same rates The Portuguese tourist
In Portugal, establishments are throughout the year. authority, Turismo de Portugal,
free to decide their own prices, publishes online a compre-
but all tariffs must be clearly hensive list of accommodation
displayed at the reception and Bookings options rated by the authority,
in the rooms. The cost of the It is advisable to reserve in complete with contact details.
room usually includes all taxes advance for all tourist areas, but A number of these establish-
and a continental breakfast. particularly in high season. Much ments can be booked via the
Other meals are charged as of the accommodation in the Visit Portugal website.
Elegantly furnished room in Belmond Reid’s Palace in Funchal, Madeira (see p395)
Rural Accommodation Estoril coasts. Hotel prices can

Portugal's choices of lodgings is drop considerably outside high
vastly enhanced by the possibility season, and it is often possible
of finding accommodation in to get a very good deal at less
private manors, country houses popular times of the year, when
or on farms, usually, but not these locations are not as
always situated in the packed with visitors.
countryside and often with the The aldeamento turístico (tourist
owners in residence. village) is a unique feature of
This description of rural resort areas such as the Algarve.
accommodation choice is known Graded from three to five stars,
in Portuguese as Turismo no these self-contained complexes
Espaço Rural (Tourism in the offer well-furnished and fitted
Country). These fall into four main private apartments and usually
categories: Turismo de Habitação provide a range of sports facilities, Casa do Campo de Molares, a manor house
(TH), which are manors or palatial too. They also include beaches, in Celorico de Basto (see p392)
houses of recognized historical pools, bars restaurants and,
and/or architectural value, sometimes, even a supermarket. kitchen, bar and swimming pool.
including interiors and period Apartamentos turísticos Information is available from
furnishings; Turismo Rural (TR), (tourist apartments) don't have Pousadas de Juventude, the
country houses typical of their the hotel-style facilities of the head office of the Portuguese
region located in or near a tourist villages, but are ideal Youth Hostel Association.
village; Agroturismo (AG), for those who require flexibility In major cities there is a grow-
houses that form part of a and independence. They are ing number of luxury hostels
working farm; and Casas de generally purpose-built that offer stylish, comfortable
Campo (CC), country houses buildings in resort areas, and clean dormitory accommo-
that take in guests, sometimes offering self-catering lodgings dation and private rooms, often
with the owners in residence. with a quality grading between inclusive of breakfast, as well as
Most of the grandest Turismos two and five stars. free tours and cheap meals.
de Habitação are found in Minho, Almost as inexpensive as
in the north. The Associação hostels, but with the advantage
do Turismo de Habitação Budget Accommodation of greater privacy, are quartos
(TURIHAB) offers information Pousadas de Juventude (youth (rooms) in private houses, often
and booking facilities. hostels) – over 50 in total – are rented out in resorts. Lists of
The annual publication mainly dotted along the coast, quartos are available from local
Turismo no Espaço Rural lists all and include three each in the tourist offices. Alternatively
the houses. Bookings can be Azores and Madeira. They are Airbnb offers a number of
made through agents or directly open all through the year, but affordable shared rooms, private
with the owners. advance booking is advisable in rooms and entire homes.
the summer. A valid Hostelling
International (HI) card, which
Resort Accommodation can be obtained from any Youth Camping
Most of the country’s resort Hostel Association, is a pre- and Caravanning
accommodation is situated requisite. Facilities vary greatly There are more than 100 official
along the Algarve and the and may include the use of a camp sites in Portugal, the
majority along the coast. The
largest is at Albufeira, in the
Algarve, but most are small
and quiet. Orbitur runs a
national chain of camp sites.
Generally the quoted rate is for
the tent and per person; extra
charges for shower and parking
apply. International camping
cards that give discounts and
provide insurance are available
from various organizations.
Camping Portugal provides a
list of camp sites and other
relevant information.
Setting up camp outside camping
sites in the countryside is
severely restricted because of the
A comfortable room at Hotel do Chiado, Lisbon (see p387) very real danger of forest fires.
Children
Children are welcome pretty
much anywhere in Portugal, and
families are well catered for.
Some hotels give children under
eight years of age a 50 per cent
discount on accommodation
and meals.
Travellers with
Disabilities
Hotels with facilities for the
disabled are listed by the Turismo
de Portugal office, which also
produces a leaflet with useful
information. Camp sites and
youth hostels that provide
special facilities are listed by Entrance to the beautiful Casa da Pérgola, Cascais (see p388)
the relevant organizations and
in an online guide published the best facilities in stunning remote settings, while Pensão /
by the Instituto Nacional Para surroundings. Boutique B&B options are affordable, often
a Reabilitação. properties are high-end and providing a hearty breakfast.
Accessible Portugal offers a independently run establish- Value and self-catering options
range of specialized tours for ments with personable touches. are self-explanatory.
disabled travellers, as well as Similarly, hotels listed as Throughout the listings, some
equipment rental and advice. character offer a unique stay in establishments are highlighted
quirky or unusual surroundings. as DK Choice – these offer
Recommended Hotels Historic lodgings, often something particularly special,
The hotels listed by area on pousadas, include restored castles, such as a beautiful location, a
pages 386–95 reflect the main convents, mansions and palaces building full of character, eco-
types of accommodation in and promise a picturesque stay. friendly credentials, outstanding
Portugal. Luxury options reflect Rural retreats include inns or service and amenities or a
hotels with flawless service and cottages set in picturesque and combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Pousadas Sana Hotels Budget Travellers with
∑ sanahotels.com Accommodation Disabilities
Pestana
Tel 218 442 001. Tivoli Hotels Airbnb Accessible Portugal
∑ pestana.com Tel 218 507 708. ∑ airbnb Tel 211 338 693.
∑ accessibleportugal.com
Pousadas de Portugal ∑ tivolihotels.com Hostelling
Tel 218 442 001. International Instituto Nacional
∑ pousadas.pt Booking ∑ hihostels.com/ Para a Reabilitação
Conde de Valbom
Chain Hotels Turismo de Portugal Pousadas de 63, 1069–178 Lisbon.
Rua Ivone Silva, Lote 6, Juventude Tel 215 952 770.
Belmond Tel 707 233 233.
∑ belmond.com 1050-124 Lisbon. Tel 211
140 200. ∑ turismode
∑ pousadas National Tourist
Best Western juventude.pt Agencies
Tel 0845 776 7676 (UK). portugal.pt
Tel 800 839 361 (Portugal). Camping and Associação de
Visit Portugal
∑ bestwestern.pt Caravanning Turismo dos Açores
∑ visitportugal.com Avenida Infante Dom
Choice Hotels Camping Portugal Henrique 55, Ponta
Tel 800 277 277. Rural ∑ campingportugal. Delgada, 9500–150 São
∑ choicehotels.eu Accommodation org Miguel. Tel 296 288 082.
Ibis ∑ visitazores.com
Orbitur
∑ ibishotel.com TURIHAB
Avenida da Boavista Direcção Regional de
Praça de República,
Le Meridien 1681-3°, Turismo da Madeira
∑ starwoodhotels.
4990-062 Ponte de Lima. 4100-132 Porto. Avenida Arriaga 18, 9004-
com/lemeridien/index. Tel 258 741 672. Tel 226 061 360. 519 Funchal. Tel 291 211
html ∑ turihab.pt ∑ orbitur.com 900. ∑ visitmadeira.pt
The Pousadas of Portugal

The concept of the pousada dates from the 1940s, when
the Portuguese government decided to establish a
national network of state-run country inns, offering
“hospitality in keeping with the style and tradition of the
region”. Pousadas are often set in remote, scenic locations,
and most have fewer than 30 rooms, so visitors can
expect friendly, personalized service and a high Pousada da Ria in Torreira,
degree of comfort. This map does not show all of near the port of Aveiro, has Valença do
20 bedrooms, most with Minho
mainland Portugal’s pousadas, just the 34 that are
particularly recommended. balconies overlooking Viana do
the lagoon of Ria de Castelo
MINHO
Aveiro (see p390).
Braga
Pousada Conde de Ourém, located with

Porto
in the medieval walled town of Ourém,
Palácio
offers breathtaking views of the Seica do Freixo
River valley. This pousada is the ideal base Espinho
from which to explore this interesting Arouca
area of Portugal, including the Shrine of
Fátima and the Convento do Cristo at Torreira
Tomar (see p389). Aveiro
Águeda
Mealhada
Figueira Coimbra
Pousada do Castelo de da Foz
Óbidos, in the walled town Condeixa-a-Nova
of Óbidos, is situated in a
beautifully restored palace
inside the 15thcentury castle
Leiria
keep. The pousada combines
a medieval atmosphere with Nazaré Ourém
all modern comforts and a
Alcobaça
highly recommended
restaurant (see p389). Peniche Óbidos
Lourinhã Santarém
Pousada Castelo de Palmela boasts ESTREMADURA

an elegant interior, commanding AND RIBATEJO
hilltop views over the town of Vila Franca
de Xira
Palmela and the Atlantic Ocean, and Queluz
an illustrious history. It is a thoughtful Lisbon THE
Cascais
conversion of a monastery which LISBON
was the headquarters of the Palmela
COAST
Portuguese Knights of Santiago Setúbal
in the 13th century.
Alcácer do Sal
Torrão
Grândola
Santiago
Sines do Cacém
Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Pousada de Sagres
occupies a spectacular
clifftop position in the
Santa-Clara-
most southwesterly town of a-Velha
Europe, Sagres. The terrace Aljezur ALGARVE
restaurant of this purpose Portimão
built pousada has
magnificent views over the Albufeira
Sagres
Atlantic Ocean (see p394).
Pousada Mosteiro
Guimarães, housed in
a medieval monastery
near the city of
Guimarães, is one of
Portugal’s most
impressive and historic
pousadas (see p392).
Pousada de Alijó, named after

Montalegre
Bragança 0 kilometres 50 J J Forrester, an influential figure in
Gerês
Caniçada 19th-century port production (see p258),
Chaves 0 miles 25
Amares enjoys a peaceful setting among vine-
Miranda
DOURO AND do Douro yards in the small Douro town of Alijó
TRÀS-OS-MONTES (see p406).
Guimarães Sendim
Alijó
Marão
Vila
Mesão Real
Frio Freixo de
Espada à
Penedono Cinta
Sernancelhe
Pinhel
THE BEIRAS
Trancoso
Celorico da
Viseu Beira
Manteigas Guarda
Vila Pouca
da Beira Belmonte
Covilhã
Penamacor
Fundão Pousada Castelo de Estremoz dominates the town of Estremoz
Monsanto and the surrounding countryside. In the 13th century, the site of
Castelo the pousada was home to King Dinis and his wife Queen Isabel
Branco (see p393).
Proença-a-Nova
Abrantes Pousada Convento de Évora,

Marvão also known as the Pousada dos
Crato Portalegre
Loios in Évora has been
Ponte converted from a 15th-century
de Sor monastery. Adjacent to the
Mora
Campo remains of a Roman temple of
Sousel Maior Diana, it features an elegant
Estremoz Elvas dining room set in the original
Vila Viçosa monastic cloisters and a Neo-
Arraiolos Classical façade that dates from
the mid-18th century (see p393).
Évora
Alvito Moura
Beja
Serpa
Pousada de Beja is located
ALENTEJO in the heart of the old
Castro Roman town of Beja at the
Verde Mértola
centre of the sun-baked
Almodôvar plains of the southern
Alentejo. The building
Odeleite incorporates parts of a
Alte
former Franciscan convent,
Estoi Tavira dating back to the 13th
century. It was opened as a
Faro pousada in 1994 (see p393).
Where to Stay
impressive city views, this hotel Price Guide
Lisbon oozes 19th-century charm. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Alcântara Florescente €€ inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Pestana Palace Hotel €€€ Pensão / B&B Map 7 A2 € up to €60
Historic Map 2 F3 Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 99, €€ €60–€150
€€€ over €150
Rua Jau 54, 1300-314 1150-266
Tel 213 615 600 Tel 213 426 609
∑ pestana.com ∑ residencialflorescente.com Britania €€€
Housed in a 19th-century Located in the heart of downtown Historic Map 5 C5
palace with a modern wing, Lisbon’s theatre and fine-dining Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17,
this hotel features lavish rooms district, a floral-themed decor 1150-278
and suites. runs throughout this hotel. There Tel 213 155 016
is a gourmet shop and a restau- ∑ heritage.pt
Alfama rant on site. Indulge in 1940s glamour at
The Keep €€ this original Art Deco hotel
Pensão / B&B Map 7 C3 Metrópole €€ with large and stylish rooms.
Costa do Castelo 74, 1100-179 Historic Map 7 B3
Tel 218 854 070 Praça Dom Pedro IV 30, 1100-200 InterContinental
∑ facebook.com/thekeeplisbon Tel 213 219 030 Lisbon €€€
This homely pensão has a rooftop ∑ almeidahotels.pt Luxury Map 5 B4
turret and a garden terrace with The Metrópole has elegant rooms Rua Castilho 149, 1099-034
great views of the city. decorated with original 1920s Art Tel 213 818 700
deco furnishings. Some rooms ∑ intercontinental.com/lisbon
Solar do Castelo €€€ have a balcony overlooking the The chic, spacious rooms
Historic Map 7 C3 attractive adjoining plaza. and suites have contemporary
Rua das Cozinhas 2, 1100-181 decor. There is a fine-dining
Tel 218 806 050 NH Collection restaurant and a fitness centre.
∑ solardocastelo.com Lisboa Liberdade €€
A hotel with contemporary decor Boutique Map 4 F1
inside an 18th-century mansion Avenida da Liberdade 180B, 1250-146 DK Choice
within the Castelo de São Jorge. Tel 213 514 060 Internacional Design
∑ nh-hotels.pt Hotel €€€
A rooftop pool and terrace Boutique Map 7 B3
Baixa and Avenida feature at this minimalist hotel, Rua da Betesga 3, 1100-090
Shiado Hostel € situated on a tree-lined avenue, Tel 213 240 990
Value Map 7 A4 with cafés and designer shops. ∑ idesignhotel.com
Rua Anchieta 5, 3rd Floor, 1200-023 Each floor of this luxury hotel
Tel 213 429 227 VIP Executive is based around a different
∑ shiadohostel.com Éden Aparthotel €€ theme: urban chic, Zen
A hostel with colourful rooms, Self-catering Map 7 A2 philosophy and pop or tribal
shared kitchen and bathrooms, Praça dos Restauradores 24, culture. Guests choose a
and a buffet breakfast. 1250-187 room to suit their personality
Tel 213 216 600 and requirements. Special
Alegria €€ ∑ viphotels.com facilities include a choice of
Pensão / B&B Map 4 F1 Modern studios and apartments pillows and the option of a
Praça da Alegria 12, 1250-004 are housed in this 1930s Art butler service.
Tel 213 220 670 Deco building with a large
∑ alegrianet.com rooftop pool.
Family-run residencial that
offers cheerful rooms with large Altis Grand Hotel €€€
windows and fresh flowers. Luxury Map 4 F1
Rua Castilho 11, 1269-072
Avani Avenida Tel 213 106 000
Liberdade Lisbon Hotel €€ ∑ altishotels.com
Luxury Map 4 F1 Five-star opulence at this stylish
Rua J César Machado 7–9, 1250-135 hotel with soundproof rooms
Tel 213 591 001 includes a heated indoor pool.
∑ tivolihotels.com Prime location in central Lisbon.
Guests find both luxury and style
at this family-friendly hotel. The Avenida Palace €€€
garden has a pool. Luxury Map 7 B3
Rua 1 de Dezembro 123, 1200-359
Ever Lisboa City Center Hotel €€ Tel 213 218 100
Historic Map 5 C5 ∑ hotelavenidapalace.pt
Avenida da Liberdade 189, 1250-141 A luxurious, romantic hotel full
Tel 213 522 618 of old-fashioned charm and all
∑ everlisboahotel.com modern comforts. The impressive
With an ornate staircase, murals, rooms are elegantly furnished The stylish lobby of the modernist
and a restaurant offering in a classic style. Britania hotel
Hotel do Chiado €€€

Boutique Map 7 B4
Rua Nova do Almada 114,
1200-290
Tel 213 256 100
∑ hoteldochiado.pt
A prestigious boutique hotel
that combines Oriental and
Colonial influences. Modern yet
classic rooms and suites, along
with a rooftop restaurant and bar.
Olissippo Lapa Palace €€€

Historic Map 3 C3
Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4,
1249-021
Tel 213 949 494
View of the grand façade of Bairro Alto Hotel ∑ olissippohotels.com
This gracious palace boasts
Lisboa Plaza €€€ Bairro Alto and Estrela uniquely decorated rooms in
Historic Map 4 F1 Happy@Chiado € various styles, from 18th-century
Travessa do Salitre 7, 1269-066 Value Map 4 F3 Neo-Classical to Art Deco.
Tel 213 218 218 Rua do Loreto 13, 1200-241
∑ heritage.pt Tel 916 086 246
Located in the heart of the city, ∑ happyatchiado.com Further Afield
this family-run 1950s hotel has A charming guesthouse with Residencial Roxi €
traditional furnishings, a private a communal kitchen and clean, Pensão / B&B Map 6 E5
library and a charming terrace. shared bathrooms. Avenida Almirante Reis 31,
1150-009
Mundial €€€ Pensão Londres € Tel 218 126 341
Character Map 7 C2 Pensão / B&B Map 4 F2 ∑ residencialroxi.com
Praça Martim Moniz 2, 1100-341 Rua Dom Pedro V 53, 1250-092 Residencial Roxi features simple,
Tel 218 842 000 Tel 213 462 203 spacious and traditionally
∑ hotel-mundial.pt ∑ pensaolondres.com.pt furnished rooms. Friendly staff.
The rooms here are spacious Stone’s throw away from the
and some have balconies. There Miradouro de São Pedro de Real Parque €€
are splendid city and castle views Alcântara, this clean guesthouse Value Map 5 C3
plus an excellent bar and has simple yet comfortable Avenida Luís Bívar 67, 1069-146
restaurant facilities rooms, and friendly service. Tel 213 199 000
The fourth-floor rooms have ∑ realhotelsgroup.com
Ritz Four Seasons €€€ great panoramic views. The rooms here are elegant, with
Historic Map 5 B5 classical design and decor. Some
Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88, Lisbon Dreams have a terrace.
1099-039 Guesthouse €€
Tel 213 811 400 Character Map 5 B5 Senhora do Monte €€
∑ fourseasons.com/lisbon Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 29, Pensão / B&B Map 7 D1
Rooms here are furnished with 1250-189 Calçada do Monte 39, 1170-250
antiques. There is a renowned Tel 213 872 393 Tel 218 866 002
spa with an indoor pool, and ∑ lisbondreamsguesthouse.com ∑ senhoramonte.blogspot.pt
a rooftop restaurant at this Bright and cheerful rooms, as On a hilltop, this hotel has rooms
prestigious hotel. well as self-catering apartments, with stylish decorative touches and
are offered at this property. balconies overlooking the river.
Sofitel Lisboa €€€
Luxury Map 4 F1 As Janelas Verdes €€€ Tivoli Oriente €€
Avenida da Liberdade 127, Historic Map 4 D3 Character
1269-038 Rua das Janelas Verdes 47, 1200-690 Avenida Dom João II, 1990-083
Tel 213 228 300 Tel 213 968 143 Tel 218 915 100
∑ sofitel-lisboa.com ∑ heritage.pt ∑ tivolihotels.com
The rooms have soft mattresses A restored 18th-century mansion This hotel offers spacious rooms
and downy quilts at this luxury with Neo-Classical decor and a with stylish modern decor, an
hotel. The restaurant is excellent. romantic, luxurious ambience. indoor pool and river views.
A small courtyard garden and a
Tivoli Avenida top-floor library, overlooking the Sheraton Lisboa
Liberdade Lisboa €€€ Tagus, add to the hotel’s charm. Hotel & Spa €€€
Luxury Map 4 F1 Luxury Map 5 C3
Avenida da Liberdade 185, Bairro Alto Hotel €€€ Rua Latino Coelho 1, 1069-025
1269-050 Boutique Map 7 A4 Tel 213 120 000
Tel 213 198 900 Praça Luis de Camões 2, 1200-243 ∑ sheraton.com/lisboa
∑ tivolihotels.com Tel 213 408 288 In addition to chic rooms, the
The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade ∑ bairroaltohotel.com Sheraton has a great spa and
Lisboa offers luxurious rooms, This luxury boutique hotel has stylish bars. The award-winning
a rooftop Skybar, gourmet a massage room, a gourmet restaurant offers fine dining and
restaurants and excellent service. restaurant and a rooftop bar. a panoramic vista.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 380–83
ESTORIL: Hotel Alvorada €€ 12th-century castle, this luxury

The Lisbon Coast Value Map B5 hotel affords fine views of the Sado
Rua de Lisboa 3, 2765-240 estuary and Arrábida mountains.
ALCÁCER DO SAL: Pousada Tel 214 649 860
Dom Afonso II €€ ∑ hotelalvorada.com QUELUZ: Pousada
Historic Map C6 The large, comfortable rooms Palácio de Queluz €€
Castelo de Alcácer do Sal, 7580-197 here have sea views; some have Historic Map B5
Tel 265 613 070 balconies. Popular for conferences. Largo do Palácio Nacional, 2745-191
∑ pousadas.pt Tel 214 356 158
Set within a converted castle with ESTORIL: Hotel Inglaterra €€€ ∑ pousadas.pt
whitewashed walls and floor-to- Historic Map B5 This hotel in a renovated 18th-
ceiling windows, this pousada Rua do Porto 1, 2765-271 century clock tower retains many
offers views over the River Sado. Tel 214 684 461 original stone features.
∑ hotelinglaterra.com.pt
Old meets new in this charming SESIMBRA: Sana Sesimbra €€
DK Choice modernized former palace. It has Character Map C5
CASCAIS: Casa da Pérgola €€ a pool and massage facilities. Avenida 25 de Abril, 11, 2970-634
Historic Map B5 Tel 212 289 000
Avenida Valbom 13, 2750-508 ESTORIL: Hotel Palácio €€€ ∑ sesimbra.sanahotels.com
Tel 214 840 040 Historic Map B5 Chic rooms have beach and
∑ pergolahouse.pt Rua Particular, 2769-504 castle views. There is a sky
Housed in a beautiful 19th- Tel 214 648 000 lounge with a heated indoor
century Mediterranean-style ∑ palacioestorilhotel.com pool, and an on-site fish and
mansion with marble floors, Popular with celebrities, this hotel seafood restaurant .
stucco ceilings and ornate has classically styled, elegant
furnishings, this hotel is rooms and a gourmet restaurant. SETÚBAL: Quinta dos
decorated with original hand- Moinhos de São Filipe €€
painted tiles. The gorgeous GUINCHO: Senhora da Guia €€ Character Map C5
landscaped gardens are filled Character Map B5 Rua de São Filipe, 2900-670
with colourful flowers. Dinner Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642 Tel 265 228 278
is available on request. Tel 214 869 239 ∑ moinhossaofilipe.com
∑ senhoradaguia.com Located on the slopes of the
Stylish boutique hotel set in Serra da Arrábida, this estate has
CASCAIS: Farol Hotel €€€ beautiful grounds next to a golf lodgings in both the main building
Luxury Map B5 course. Luxury health club on site. and a restored windmill.
Avenida Rei Humberto II de Itália 7,
2750-800 GUINCHO: Fortaleza SINTRA: Espaço Edla €€
Tel 214 823 490 do Guincho €€€ Pensão / B&B Map B5
∑ farol.com.pt Historic Map B5 Rua Doutor Alfredo da Costa 52,
This fashionable, chic 19th- Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642 2710-523
century mansion was given Tel 214 870 491 Tel 925 970 131
a 21st-century makeover by ∑ guinchotel.pt ∑ espacoedla.pt
ten international designers. A renovated 17th-century fortress Pensão with stylish modern
with medieval decor and a decor. A gourmet bakery and
CASCAIS: Miragem €€€ Michelin-starred restaurant with teahouse is on site.
Luxury Map B5 jaw-dropping Atlantic Ocean views.
Avenida Marginal 8554, 2754-536 SINTRA: Lawrence’s Hotel €€€
Tel 210 060 600 PALMELA: Pousada Historic Map B5
∑ cascaismirage.com Castelo Palmela €€ Rua Consigliéri Pedroso 38–40,
Opulent, stylish hotel overlooking Historic Map C5 2710-550
the bay, with a fantastic gourmet Castelo de Palmela, 2950-317 Tel 219 105 500
restaurant and an infinity pool. Tel 212 351 226 ∑ lawrenceshotel.com
∑ pousadas.pt The rooms at this renovated manor
COSTA DA CAPARICA: Surrounded by vineyards and set with antique furniture are named
Residencial Mar e Sol €€ in a former convent attached to a after celebrated authors and artists.
Pensão / B&B Map B5
Rua dos Pescadores, 42, 2825-325
Tel 212 900 017
∑ residencialmaresol.com
B&B situated near a beach,
offering simple rooms and a
cheerful lounge. Great breakfast.
ERICEIRA: Vila Galé Ericeira €€

Character Map B5
Largo dos Navegantes, 2655-320
Tel 261 869 900
∑ vilagale.pt
Set on a headland, this lovely
hotel has on-site facilities such
as a health club with a Jacuzzi
sauna and Turkish bath, as well as
a children’s club and playground. The gourmet Grill Four Seasons restaurant in the Hotel Palácio, Estoril
For key to prices see page 386
NAZARÉ: Mar Bravo €€

Character Map C4
Praça Sousa Oliveira 71, 2450-159
Tel 262 569 160
∑ marbravo.com
Rooms at this small hotel are well
appointed and have balconies
with town or sea views. It has a
good seafood restaurant.
DK Choice
ÓBIDOS: Casa d’Óbidos €€
Historic Map B4
Quinta de São José, 2510-135
Tel 262 950 924
∑ casadobidos.com
This 19th-century manor
Sun loungers in the pretty garden at the Hotel Lusitano, Golegã house features a range of
rooms, apartments and
SINTRA: Tivoli Palácio CONSTÂNCIA: Quinta de cottages with traditional
de Seteais €€€ Santa Bárbara €€ country-style decor. Guests
Historic Map B5 Historic Map C4 can mingle while enjoying
Rua Barbosa du Bocage 8, Constância, 2250-092 meals around a communal
2710-517 Tel 249 739 214 dining table. Explore the lovely
Tel 219 233 200 ∑ quinta-santabarbara.com garden with fruit trees and
∑ tivolihotels.com This converted manor house has hammocks, snuggle by the
This opulent, romantic hotel has warm and spacious rustic rooms. fireplace or relax on the terrace.
magnificent 18th-century archi- It offers beautiful gardens, a rural Gracious Portuguese host.
tecture and furnishings. There is landscape and a swimming pool
a stylish restaurant, a bar, and a with a panoramic setting.
wellness centre and spa within ÓBIDOS: Pousada Castelo €€€
the premises. FÁTIMA: Dom Gonçalo Hotel €€ Historic Map B4
Value Map C4 Paço Real, 2510-999
Rua Jacinto Marto 100, 2495-450 Tel 262 955 080
Tel 249 539 330 ∑ pousadas.pt
Estremadura and ∑ hoteldg.com The rooms in this converted
Ribatejo A four-star boutique hotel with
modern rooms, set in pretty,
15th-century castle presiding
over the walled city feature four-
BALEAL: Casa das Marés 2 €€ manicured gardens. The hotel poster beds and chandeliers.
Pensão / B&B Map B4 provides free passes to a wellness
Rua Raúl Brandão, Praia de Baleal, and spa centre. ÓBIDOS: Praia D’El Rey
Peniche, 2520-009 Marriott €€€
Tel 262 769 255 FÁTIMA: Steyler Fátima Hotel €€ Luxury Map B4
∑ casadasmares2.com Value Map C4 Avenida Dona Inês de Castro 1,
Set on a spit of land connected to Praça Luís Kondor 33, 2495-409 2510-451
the mainland at specific times of Tel 249 533 043 Tel 262 905 100
the day, this family-run B&B offers ∑ steylerfatimahotel.com ∑ praia-del-rey.com
stunning views and cozy interiors. Ideal for families, this hotel is This five-star luxury resort
close to the shrine, making it boasts an 18-hole golf course
BARRAGEM DO CASTELO popular with pilgrims. It has and an acclaimed spa. Rooms are
DE BODE: Estalagem bright rooms, a children’s club, spacious and service is excellent.
Lago Azul €€ and a restaurant.
Rural Map C4 OURÉM: Pousada Ourém €€
Ferreira do Zêzere, 2240-132 GOLEGÃ: Hotel Lusitano €€ Historic Map C4
Tel 249 361 445 Character Map C4 Largo João Manso, Castelos,
∑ estalagemlagoazul.com Rua Gil Vicente 4, 2150-193 2490-481
In a stunning lakefront setting, Tel 249 979 170 Tel 249 540 930
this hotel has comfortable rooms, ∑ hotellusitano.com ∑ pousadas.pt
some with balconies. The in-house The stylish rooms here feature Consisting of a cluster of restored
restaurant serves traditional canopied beds. A historic façade medieval houses, this family-
Portuguese cuisine. with modern interiors, and friendly pousada has a pool, sun
a fantastic spa. terrace and all modern comforts.
CALDAS DA RAINHA: Sana
Silver Coast Hotel €€ LEIRIA: Eurosol Residence €€ PENICHE: Casa do Castelo €€
Character Map B4 Self-catering Map C4 Historic Map B4
Avenida Dom Manuel Figueira Freire Rua Comissão da Iniciativa 13, Estrada Nacional 114, Number 16,
da Câmara, 2500-184 2410-098 Atouguia da Baleia, 2525-023
Tel 262 000 600 Tel 244 860 460 Tel 262 750 647
∑ silvercoast.sanahotels.com ∑ eurosol.pt ∑ casacastelo.com
A Neo-Classical building with a A complex of apartments and This 17th-century manor house
stylish modern interior. Excellent studios, with a sunny terrace, has traditional furnishings. a
bar, restaurant and café on site. outdoor pool and health club. pretty garden and a pool.
COIMBRA: Vintage Lofts €€

Self-catering Map C3
Rua Simão de Évora 11, 3000-386
Tel 964 326 556
∑ coimbravintagelofts.com
Studios and apartments are
to be found in this renovated
18th-century building. A house-
keeping service is available.
COIMBRA: Quinta das

Lágrimas €€€
Historic Map C3
Rua António Augusto Gonçalves,
3041-901
Comfortable bed in an apartment at Vintage Lofts, Coimbra Tel 239 802 380
∑ quintadaslagrimas.pt
TOMAR: Hotel BELMONTE: Pousada Choose from three options at this
dos Templários €€ Convento Belmonte €€ romantic luxury hotel: palace-,
Value Map C4 Historic Map D3 garden- or spa-themed rooms.
Largo Cândido dos Reis 1, 2304-909 Serra da Esperança Apartado 76,
Tel 249 310 100 6250-073 CONDEIXA-A-NOVA:
∑ hoteldostemplarios.com Tel 275 910 300 Pousada Condeixa Coimbra €€
Enjoy four-star comfort and sports ∑ pousadas.pt Historic Map C3
facilities within a lush garden A former convent with fine views Rua Francisco Lemos, 3150-142
setting with river views. of Serra da Estrela, this hotel Tel 239 944 025
offers stylish rooms, modern ∑ pousadas.pt
VILA FRANCA DE XIRA: facilities and an old chapel A stately 16th-century palace
Lezíria Parque €€ converted into a bar. offering all modern comforts, a
Value Map C5 garden pool and tennis court.
Avenida Barranco de Cegos 22, BUÇACO: Palace Hotel
2600-246 do Bussaco €€ CURIA: Curia Palace Hotel €€
Tel 263 276 670 Historic Map C3 Historic Map C3
∑ leziriaparquehotel.pai.pt Mata do Bussaco, 3050-261 Tamengos, 3780-541
A functional hotel with 103 Tel 231 937 970 Tel 231 510 300
tastefully decorated rooms and ∑ almeidahotels.pt ∑ almeidahotels.pt
views over the River Tagus. It has This 19th-century Manueline- An elegant and glamorous
a Portuguese restaurant with style fairy-tale palace in a forest Art Nouveau palace with an Art
outdoor seating as well as a bar. has period furniture and azulejos. Deco pool and a golf course.
CASTELO BRANCO: Tryp Colina FIGUEIRA DA FOZ: Hotel Costa

do Castelo Hotel €€ de Prata €€
The Beiras Value Map D4 Value Map C3
Rua da Piscina s/n, 6000-776 Largo Coronel Galhardo 1, 3080-150
ALMEIDA: Hotel Fortaleza Tel 272 349 280 Tel 233 426 620
de Almeida €€ ∑ trypcolinacastelo.com ∑ costadeprata.com
Character Map E2 The large balconied rooms In the centre of town, and a
Rua da Muralha, 6350-112 offer city views. There is a fitness short stroll away from Figueira’s
Tel 271 574 283 centre, an indoor pool and a beach, this brightly decorated,
∑ hotelfortalezadealmeida.com Turkish bath. modern hotel affords amazing
Some of the spacious rooms here views. Guests have access to a
have four-poster beds. Guests CELORICO DA BEIRA: gym, Jacuzzi, and a number of
can unwind in the games room. Hotel Mira Serra € spa treatments.
Rural Map D3
AVEIRO: Pousada Ria €€ Rua Calouste Gulbenkian 12, GUARDA: Hotel Lusitânia €€€
Character Map C3 6360-294 Character Map D3
Bico do Muranzel, Torreira, 3870-301 Tel 271 742 604 Urbanização Quinta das Covas
Tel 234 860 180 ∑ hmiraserra.com.pt Lote 34, 6300-389
∑ pousadas.pt A warm, family-run hotel with Tel 271 238 285
Built on pillars above the water, a rustic, regional restaurant, ∑ hotellusitaniaparque.com
this pousada on the river bank the Hotel Mira Serra functions Rooms at Hotel Lusitânia have
offers bright and comfortable as a good base to explore the private balconies. There are
rooms, a tennis court and a pool. Serra da Estrela. indoor and outdoor pools and
a health centre.
AVEIRO: Veneza Hotel €€ COIMBRA: Casa Pombal €€
Character Map C3 Pensão / B&B Map C3 LUSO: Grande Hotel de Luso €€
Rua Luís Gomes de Carvalho 23, Rua das Flores 18, 3000-442 Character Map C3
3800-211 Tel 239 835 175 Rua Dr Cid de Oliveira 86, 3050-210
Tel 234 404 400 ∑ casapombal.com Tel 231 937 937
∑ venezahotel.pt This Dutch-run guesthouse, ∑ hoteluso.com
Stylish rooms and a charming located next door to the This large, elegant hillside hotel
garden with a terrace feature at University of Coimbra, has cosy is set in beautiful grounds. It is
this hotel in a 1930s house. rooms and a pretty terrace. family-friendly, with a kids’ club.
BRAGANÇA: Pousada PESO DA RÉGUA:

DK Choice Bragança €€ Hotel Régua Douro €€
MANTEIGAS: Casa das Historic Map E1 Value Map D2
Penhas Douradas €€ Estrada do Turismo, 5300-271 Largo da Estação da CP, 5050-237
Character Map D3 Tel 273 331 493 Tel 254 320 700
Penhas Douradas, 6260-200 ∑ pousadas.pt ∑ hotelreguadouro.pt
Tel 275 981 045 The interiors of this pousada This smart and functional
∑ casadaspenhasdouradas.pt feature stone walls, abstract Peso da Régua hotel is simply
An environmentally friendly azulejo tiles and wooden furniture. and tastefully furnished, and is
hotel built of cork and wood, with particularly popular with
spectacular mountain views. CHAVES: Hotel Kátia € business travellers.
There is complimentary tea, Modern Map D1
coffee and cake, as well as free Rua do Sol 28, 5400-517 PINHÃO: Casa do Visconde
bike and kayak hire. The spa Tel 276 324 446 de Chanceleiros €€
treatments use local herbs. A friendly hotel near the town’s Historic Map D2
Service is impeccable. famous thermal spa, with pleasant Largo da Fonte, 5085-201
rooms and a good breakfast. Tel 254 730 190
∑ chanceleiros.com
PENALVA DO CASTELO: CHAVES: Aquae Flaviae €€ This imaginatively furnished
Casa da Insua €€€ Value Map D1 18th-century manor house has
Historic Map D3 Praça do Brasil, 5400-123 rustic decor and a lovely garden.
Penalva do Castelo, 3550-126 Tel 276 309 000
Tel 232 640 110 ∑ hoteispremium.com PINHÃO:
∑ casadainsua.pt Comfortable rooms, a pool, a Quinta de la Rosa €€
Five-star hotel in an 18th-century games room and a kids’ play area Rural Map D2
palace featuring smart rooms and are some of the highlights here. Pinhão, 5085-215
apartments and a lovely garden. Tel 254 732 254
ESPINHO: Praia Golfe €€ ∑ quintadelarosa.com
PENHAS DOURADAS: Pousada Value Map C2 Built on the side of a steep hill,
Serra da Estrela €€ Rua 6, 4500-357 a choice of rooms and cottages
Rural Map D3 Tel 227 331 000 is offered at this family-owned,
Estrada Nacional 339, 6200-324 ∑ praiagolfe.com friendly property in a wine
Tel 210 407 660 This beach hotel with ocean estate. Affords stunning views
∑ pousadas.pt views has 133 large rooms, and wine tours.
Mountain-top hotel with on-site and features an indoor pool,
facilities such as a playground and Turkish bath, and spa. PORTO:
a wellness centre with spa. Boa-Vista €€
LAMEGO: Delfim Douro €€€ Value Map C2
VISEU: Casa da Sé €€ Rural Map D2 Esplanada do Castelo 58, 4150-196
Historic Map D3 Quinta do Loureiro, 5100-758 Tel 225 320 020
Rua Augusta Cruz 12, 3500-088 Tel 254 960 000 ∑ hotelboavista.com
Tel 232 468 032 ∑ delfimdourohotel.com A comfortable 150-year-old hotel
∑ casadase.net The large rooms at this hotel have with an attractive terrace pool
A boutique hotel with views of comfortable seating. A rooftop and panoramic sea views.
the cathedral, housed in a terrace offers panoramic views.
restored 18th-century manor full PORTO: Gallery Hostel €€
of antiques. MESÃO FRIO: Casa de Canilhas €€ Character Map C2
Rural Map D2 Rua Miguel Bombarda 222, 4050-377
VISEU: Hotel Montebelo €€ Rua do Ervedal 263, 5040-330 Tel 224 964 313
Luxury Map D3 Tel 254 891 181 ∑ gallery-hostel.com
Urbanização Quinta do Bosque, ∑ canilhas.com Luxury hostel with some
3510-020 Set in picturesque gardens with private rooms and an art gallery.
Tel 232 420 000 breathtaking river and valley views, Hosts regular concerts and
∑ montebeloviseu.pt the rooms have rustic furnishings. cultural events.
Spacious rooms, richly-furnished
interior along with a spa and
pool feature at this business hotel.
Douro and Trás-os-

Montes
AMARANTE: Casa da Calçada €€€
Historic Map D2
Largo do Paço, 6, 4600-017
Tel 255 410 830
∑ casadacalcada.com
Enjoy five-star luxury in this former
16th-century palace. The hotel
has its own vineyard as well as a
Michelin-starred restaurant. Stylish
rooms, two pools and a spa. Room service at Praia Golfe, Espinho
For more information on types of hotels see page 380–83
PORTO: BRAGA: Dona Sofia €€

Grande Hotel de Paris €€ Value Map C1
Historic Map C2 Largo São João do Souto 131, 4700-326
Rua da Fábrica 27–29, 4050-247 Tel 253 263 160
Tel 222 073 140 ∑ hoteldonasofia.com
∑ hotelparis.pt The soundproof, simply furnished
Antique furnishings and balconies rooms here are decorated in
feature at this Art Deco-style neutral tones. Free Wi-Fi.
hotel with a gorgeous garden.
BRAGA: Hotel Meliá Braga €€
PORTO: Hotel da Bolsa €€ Modern Map C1
Character Map C2 Avenida General Carrilho da Silva
Rua Ferreira Borges 101, 4050-253 Pinto, 4715-380
Tel 222 026 768 Tel 253 144 000
∑ hoteldabolsa.com ∑ melia.com
The grand façade of this hotel A chic luxury hotel with bright
hides simple, soundproof rooms and spacious rooms, indoor and
with elegant furnishings. outdoor pools and a superb spa.
Apart from single rooms, the hotel
PORTO: São José €€ Outdoor pool at Casa do Campo de also offers junior and grand suites.
Pensão / B&B Map C2 Molares, Celorico de Basto
Rua da Alegria 172, 4000-034 CELORICO DE BASTO: Casa do
Tel 222 080 261 VIDAGO: Campo de Molares €€
∑ saojosehotelporto.com Vidago Palace €€€ Historic Map D2
Traditionally furnished pensão Historic Map D1 Molares, 4890-414
with cosy rooms, helpful staff Parque de Vidago, 5425-307 Tel 255 361 231/967 079 075
and a pleasant atmosphere. Tel 276 990 920 ∑ casadocampo.pt
∑ vidagopalace.com This 18th-century manor house
PORTO: Sheraton Porto Magnificent spa hotel in Vidago has a prize-winning garden, an
Hotel & Spa €€ has a grand Neo-Romantic outdoor pool and a sunny terrace.
Luxury Map C2 façade and handsome interiors.
Rua Tenente Valadim 146, 4100-476 There is also a championship GUIMARÃES: Hotel Mestre
Tel 220 404 000 golf course. de Avis €
∑ sheratonporto.com Character Map C2
Elegant hotel with steel, wood VILA REAL: Rua Dom João I 40, 4810-422
and glass design. There is also an Casa Agrícola da Levada €€ Tel 253 422 770
excellent spa. Great cocktails. Rural Map D2 ∑ hotelmestredeavis.pt
Timpeira, 5000-419 The rooms in this renovated
PORTO: Infante de Sagres €€€ Tel 259 322 190 town house have stylish decor
Historic Map C2 ∑ casadalevada.com and ensuite bathrooms.
Praça D Filipa de Lencastre 62, 4050-259 This charming, family-run,
Tel 223 398 500 eco-friendly hotel is based in GUIMARÃES: Casa de Sezim €€
∑ hotelinfantesagres.pt an Art Deco house with elegant Historic Map C2
Contemporary decor is combined rooms. There is also a number Rua de Sezim s/n, São Tiago de
with antiques at this boutique of self-catering cottages Candoso, 4835-249
hotel with a Neo-Baroque vibe. and studios. Tel 253 523 000
∑ sezim.pt
PORTO: Pestana A family estate since the 14th
Vintage Porto €€€ century, this hotel boasts antiques
Boutique Map C2 Minho and hand-painted wallpaper.
Praça da Ribeira 1, 4050-513 There is a tennis court and pool.
Tel 223 402 300 BARCELOS: Quinta de
∑ pestanaporto.com Santa Comba €€ GUIMARÃES: Pousada
Restored riverfront hotel with Historic Map C1 Mosteiro €€€
charming modern decor and Lugar de Crujães, 4755-536 Historic Map C2
engaging views. Tel 253 832 101 Largo Domingos Leite de Castro,
∑ stacomba.com Ludar da Costa, 4810-011
This handsome 18th-century Tel 253 511 249
DK Choice country manor house has simply ∑ pousadas.pt
PORTO: The Yeatman €€€ furnished, elegant rooms full This pousada is inside a 12-century
Luxury Map C2 of rustic charm. monastery; rooms are in the
Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 cloisters. It has 18th-century
Tel 220 133 100 BOM JESUS DO MONTE: azulejos and magnificent gardens.
∑ the-yeatman-hotel.com Hotel do Elevador €€
This award-winning luxury hotel Historic Map C1 MELGAÇO: Quinta da Calçada €€
boasts stylish modern decor and Bom Jesus do Monte, 4715-056 Historic Map C1
cutting-edge design features, Tel 253 603 400 São Julião, 4960-614
such as a decanter-shaped pool, ∑ hoteisbomjesus.pt Tel 919 861 459
a world-class spa and an indoor Set in a park, the luxurious, richly ∑ quintadacalcada.com
pool with stunning views over appointed Hotel do Elevador has This 17th-century farmhouse
the River Douro. Attentive service comfortable rooms and amazing has cleverly restored rooms
and exquisite gourmet dining. park views, as well as a good and stunning views. The outdoor
Portuguese restaurant. pool is in a pretty garden.
PONTE DE LIMA: Paço de BEJA: Pousada Convento Beja €€

Calheiros €€ Historic Map D6 DK Choice
Historic Map C1 Largo Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira, ÉVORA: Pousada
Calheiros, 4990-575 7801-901 Convento Évora €€€
Tel 258 947 164 Tel 284 313 580 Historic Map D5
∑ pacodecalheiros.com ∑ pousadas.pt Largo Conde Vila Flor, 7000-804
The Count of Calheiros welcomes In a former convent, this pousada Tel 266 730 070
guests to his 18th-century family has bedrooms with arched ∑ pousadas.pt
palace. Accommodation includes ceilings. There is an outdoor pool. Set in a 15th-century monastery,
rooms and apartments. this elegant pousada has decora-
CRATO: Pousada Mosteiro Crato €€ tive public spaces that contrast
VALENÇA DO MINHO: Historic Map D4 with the simple but attractive
Pousada de São Teotónio €€ Mosteiro da Flor da Rosa, 7430-999 rooms, converted from the monks’
Historic Map C1 Tel 245 997 210 cells. Sculpted Manueline stone
Baluarte do Socorro, 4930-619 ∑ pousadas.pt windows and arches add to the
Tel 251 800 260 This impressively renovated 14th- romantic atmosphere.
∑ pousadas.pt century monastery offers luxury
A small pousada housed within a suites with rosewood furniture.
fort. Traditionally furnished rooms MARVÃO: Dom Dinis €
offer beds with carved headboards. ELVAS: Hotel São João de Deus €€ Rural Map D4
Historic Map D5 Rua Dr Matos Magalhães 7, 7330-121
VIANA DO CASTELO: Rua de João de Quintal 1, 7350-000 Tel 245 909 028
Hotel Calatrava €€ Tel 268 639 220 ∑ ter-domdinis.com
Pensão / B&B Map C1 ∑ hotelsaojoaodeus.com Simple and elegant rooms are
Rua Manuel Fiúza Júnior 157, 4900-458 Many original features and offered at this charming hotel
Tel 258 828 911 furnishings have been retained with medieval-style decor.
Snug and friendly pensão with at this converted convent.
comfortably furnished, spotless MARVÃO: Pousada de Santa
rooms, some with balconies. ELVAS: Quinta de Santo António €€ Maria de Marvão €€
Rural Map D5 Historic Map D4
Estrada de Barbacena, 7350-903 Rua 24 de Janeiro 6–7, 7330-122
DK Choice Tel 268 636 460 Tel 245 993 201
VIANA DO CASTELO: ∑ qsahotel.com ∑ pousadas.pt
Pousada Viana do Castelo €€ A restored country manor house A cosy town house with colourful
Historic Map C1 with a rustic atmosphere and rooms that offer panoramic
Monte de Santa Luzia, 4901-909 snug guest rooms. views, and friendly, attentive staff.
Tel 258 800 370
∑ pousadas.pt ESTREMOZ: Pousada Castelo REDONDO: Convento de São
From its hilltop position on Estremoz €€ Paulo €€
Mount Santa Luzia, this pousada Historic Map D5 Historic Map D5
offers incredible views over the Largo de Dom Diniz, 7100-509 Aldeia da Serra, 7170-120
Lima estuary, the ocean and the Tel 268 332 075 Tel 266 989 160
surrounding countryside. Rooms ∑ pousadas.pt ∑ hotelconventosaopaulo.com
are stylish, well appointed and Housed in a beautiful 13th-century A beautiful former monastery
luxurious, with large windows; castle, rooms here have four- with azulejo panels and the option
some have a balcony. Amenities poster beds. of overnighting in the monks’ cells.
include a restaurant, bar, tennis
court and pool. Excellent service. ÉVORA: Évora Inn-Chiado € SERPA: Herdade da Retorta €€
Character Map D5 Rural Map D6
Rua da República 11, 7000-656 Monte da Retorta, 7830-305
VILA DO CONDE: Santana Hotel €€ Tel 266 744 500 Tel 284 544 774
Value Map C2 ∑ evorainn.com ∑ herdade-da-retorta.pt
Monte Santana, Azurara, 4480-188 Decorated in bright colours and This beautifully restored country
Tel 252 640 460 an artistic design, this hotel has estate surrounded by olive groves
∑ santanahotel.net comfortable rooms. offers simply furnished rooms.
This simple hotel overlooking
the River Ave offers rooms with
balconies, as well as a rooftop
terrace, hot tub and spa.
Alentejo
BEJA: Bejense €
Rural Map D6
Rua Capitão João Francisco de Sousa
57, 7800-451
Tel 284 311 570
∑ hotelbejense.com
This elegantly decorated hotel
has a cheerful floral theme,
azulejo tiles and wall paintings. Nineteenth-century furnishings in the Herdade da Retorta, Serpa
For more information on types of hotels see page 380–83
VILA VIÇOSA: Casa do LOULÉ: Loulé Jardim Hotel €€

Colegio Velho €€ DK Choice Boutique Map D7
Historic Map D5 CABANAS: Forte de São João Lg Manuel de Arriaga 25, 8100-665
Rua Dr Couto Jardim 34, 7160-263 da Barra €€€ Tel 289 413 094
Tel 268 889 430 Historic Map D7 ∑ loulejardimhotel.com
∑ casadocolegiovelho.com Rua da Fortaleza, 8800-595 Hotel with pleasant, simple rooms,
All modern facilities are offered Tel 960 375 419 a terrace and an outdoor pool,
at this hotel in a restored 16th- ∑ fortesaojoaodabarra.com close to the historic town centre.
century mansion, close to the Overlooking the Ria Formosa,
duke’s palace. this remarkable boutique B&B is MONTE GORDO: Vasco
set in a restored 17th-century da Gama €€€
VILA VIÇOSA: Pousada fort. Enjoy breakfast on the Value Map D7
Convento Vila Viçosa €€ ramparts with scenic views of Rua Infante Dom Henrique, 8900-412
Historic Map D5 the lagoon. Amenities include Tel 281 510 900
Convento das Chagas, a garden swimming pool and a ∑ vascodagamahotel.com
Terreiro do Paço, 7160-251 private water taxi that ferries Popular with families, this hotel
Tel 268 980 742 guests to the outlying islands. has large rooms with balconies
∑ pousadas.pt and two outdoor pools.
In a 17th-century royal convent,
this hotel has pretty landscaped CARVOEIRO: Tivoli Carvoeiro PORCHES: Vila Vita Parc €€€
gardens and a spacious terrace. Algarve Resort €€€ Luxury Map C7
Luxury Map C7 Alporchinhos, 8400-450
Vale do Covo, 8401-843 Tel 282 310 100
Tel 282 351 100 ∑ vilavitaparc.com
Algarve ∑ minorhotels.com Exclusive clifftop spa resort
Plush hotel in a gorgeous setting featuring an 18-hole golf course
ALBUFEIRA: Alfagar €€€ with well-appointed rooms as and a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Self-catering Map C7 well as a bespoke spa facility.
Aldeamento Turístico, Santa Eulália, PORTIMÃO: Penina Hotel
8200-912 ESTOI: Pousada Palácio Estoi €€€ & Golf Resort €€€
Tel 289 540 220 Historic Map D7 Luxury Map C7
∑ alfagar.com Rua São José, 8005-465 Penina, 8501-952
Clifftop apartment complex with Tel 289 990 150 Tel 282 420 200
three pools, a tennis court and a ∑ pousadas.pt ∑ penina.com
kids’ adventure playground. The sumptuous rooms at this A championship golf course
restored 19th-century palace makes this hotel a haven for
ALBUFEIRA: Grande Real have all modern facilities. golfers. Offers stylish rooms and a
Santa Eulália Resort & kids’ club.
Hotel Spa €€€ FARO: Hotel Eva €€
Value Map C7 Value Map D7 QUINTA DO LAGO: Hotel
Praia Santa Eulália, 8200-916 Avenida da República 1, 8000-078 Quinta do Lago €€€
Tel 289 598 000 Tel 289 001 000 Rural Map D7
∑ granderealsantaeulaliahotel.com ∑ ap-hotelresorts.com Quinta do Lago, 8135-024
Modern, well-equipped five-star A hotel with well-equipped rooms, Tel 289 350 350
beach resort with a fantastic a rooftop bar and pool with views ∑ hotelquintadolago.com
Thalasso spa and a stylish bar. over the marina. Helpful staff. The spacious, elegant rooms at
this hotel have views over the Ria
ALTE: Alte Hotel €€ LAGOS: Belavista da Luz €€€ Formosa estuary. Private beach.
Character Map C7 Value Map C7
Estrada de Sta Margarida, 8100-012 Praia da Luz, 8600-147 SAGRES: Navigator €€
Tel 289 478 523 Tel 282 788 655 Self-catering Map C7
∑ altehotel.com ∑ belavistadaluz.com Rua Infante D Henrique, 8650-381
Budget hotel with simple, cosy Ideal for families, with comfortable, Tel 282 624 354
rooms and a tennis court. Great well-appointed rooms, two pools ∑ aparthotelnavigator.com
vistas over the surrounding valley. and sweeping views of the bay. Simple one-bedroom apartments
are to be found here. Room
service and breakfast are available.
SAGRES: Pousada Sagres €€€

Character Map C7
Ponta da Atalaia, 8650-240
Tel 282 620 240
∑ pousadas.pt
Lovely pousada overlooking the
ocean, with stylish rooms, a
terrace bar and a pool.
SILVES: Duas Quintas €€€

Rural Map C7
Santo Estevão, 8300-047
Tel 282 449 311
∑ duasquintas.com
Aerial view of the Belavista da Luz against the backdrop of the Praia da Luz bay in Lagos This renovated farmhouse retains
from studio apartments to

plush suites. The Azores
FUNCHAL: Vila Teresinha € FAIAL: Quinta das Buganvílias €€
Pensão / B&B Rural
Rua das Cruzes 21, 9000-025 Castelo Branco, Horta, 9900-330
Tel 291 741 723 Tel 292 943 255
∑ vilateresinha.com ∑ quintadasbuganvilias.com
A town house with pleasant This family-run estate offers
rooms, some with great views. simple, traditional rooms and
Breakfast is served on the terrace. apartments. An old mill house
lends authenticity
FUNCHAL: Hotel Quinta da
Penha de França €€ FAIAL: Pousada
Character Forte da Horta €€€
Rua Imperatriz Dª Amélia 85, 9000-014 Historic
Tel 291 229 261 Rua Vasco da Gama, Horta, 9900-017
Alfresco dining on the terrace at Belmond ∑ penafranca.com Tel 292 202 200
Reid’s Palace, Funchal Choose between the clifftop ∑ pousadas.pt
mansion set in tropical gardens or Inside a 16th-century fort, the
many original features. It also has the modern beachfront hotel, stylish rooms here offer views
a studio apartment. connected by a footbridge. over the marina and Pico Island.
TAVIRA: Guesthouse Imperial €€ FUNCHAL: Quinta Perestrello €€ PICO: Aldeia da Fonte €€

B&B Map D7 Historic Rural
Rua Doutor José Pires Padinha 24, Rua Dr Pita 3, 9000-089 Caminho de Baixo 2, Lajes do Pico,
8800-354 Tel 291 706 700 Silveira, 9930-177
Tel 281 098 005 ∑ quintaperestrellomadeira.com Tel 292 679 500
The rooms at this B&B are elegant Enjoy affordable luxury at this ∑ aldeiadafonte.com
and colourful. There are great river restored 19th-century mansion This eco- and pet-friendly resort
views from the breakfast room. filled with antique furniture. has six rustic stone houses in lush
gardens. It also has a fitness centre.
TAVIRA:
Quinta do Caracol €€ DK Choice PICO: Baía da Barca €€
Self-catering Map D7 FUNCHAL: Belmond Self-catering
Rua São Pedro 11, 8800-405 Reid’s Palace €€€ Lugar da Barca, 9950-303
Tel 281 322 475 Historic Tel 292 628 750
∑ quintadocaracol.com Estrada Monumental 139, 9000-098 ∑ baiadabarca.com
These converted farmhouses in Tel 291 717 171 Modern aparthotel with spacious
pretty gardens have rooms with ∑ belmond.com and comfortable units featuring
kitchenettes and a sitting area. Founded in 1891, Madeira’s best- all mod cons and fireplaces.
known hotel boasts a clientele
VILA REAL DE SANTO ANTÓNIO: of wealthy and famous patrons – SÃO MIGUEL: Hotel do Colégio €€
Hotel Apolo €€ former guests Winston Churchill Historic
Value Map D7 and George Bernard Shaw have Rua Carvalho Araújo 39,
Avenida dos Bombeiros Portugueses, suites named after them. The Ponta Delgada, 9500-040
8900-209 hotel is furnished in the style of a Tel 296 306 600
Tel 281 510 700 stately home, with chandeliers in ∑ hoteldocolegio.com
∑ apolo-hotel.com the Michelin-starred William A converted 19th-century manor
Located in the heart of the town, restaurant. Take a dip in the house with large rooms and
this hotel serves a generous buffet palm-fringed pools or admire classic decor, a pool and sauna.
breakfast. It also has an restaurant. the magnificent clifftop views.
SÃO MIGUEL: Terra Nostra
VILAMOURA: The Lake Spa €€€ Garden Hotel €€€
Luxury Map D7 PORTO MONIZ: Hotel Salgueiro € Luxury
Praia da Falésia, 8126-910 B&B Rua Padre José Jacinto Botelho,
Tel 289 320 700 Lugar do Tenente, 9270-095 Furnas, 9675-061
∑ thelakeresort.com Tel 291 850 080 Tel 296 549 090
Stay in style at this luxury resort ∑ hotelsalgueiro.com ∑ bensaudehotels.com
with exquisite Mediterranean- This residencial offers simple but Art Deco interiors and rooms in
or Oriental-themed rooms. comfortable rooms and views of neutral colours. The hotel has
the town’s natural rock pools. lush gardens with peacocks, a
pool and wellness centre.
PORTO SANTO: Hotel Torre
Madeira Praia €€€ TERCEIRA: Beira Mar €€
Value Character
CANIÇO: Quinta Splendida €€€ Rua Goulart Medeiros, 9400-164 Largo Miguel Corte Real,
Self-catering Tel 291 980 450 Angra do Heroísmo, 9700-182
Estrada Ponte da Oliveira 11, 9125-001 ∑ portosantohotels.com Tel 295 215 188
Tel 291 930 400 Suites at this hotel have spacious ∑ hotelbeiramar.com
∑ quintasplendida.com terraces with sunloungers, while Overlooking the harbour, this
Villa complex in beautiful each room has a balcony and is hotel offers cosy rooms with
gardens. Accommodation ranges comfortably furnished. basic, simple decor. Attentive staff.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Portugal offers a wealth of fresh fish and Porto and the Algarve – have the entire
seafood to feast on – from clams, lobster gamut of eateries, including expensive
and sardines to tuna, swordfish and bacalhau international gourmet restaurants, but by
(salted cod), the national favourite. However, and large, most eateries are reasonably
the Portuguese are also great meat eaters, priced and serve generous portions. This
and they are justifiably proud of such dishes section introduces, and gives tips on, eating
as roast kid and suckling pig. The more places, menus, drinks and ordering to help
popular tourist destinations – such as Lisbon, you make the most of eating out in Portugal.
At a marisqueira the emphasis Reservations

is on fresh fish and seafood. It is a good idea to book ahead
The churrasqueira, a popular for expensive restaurants and
concept imported from Brazil, those in popular locations in
specializes in charcoal- high season. If you need
grilled foods, while special assistance, be
a cervejaria (beer sure to check on
house) is the place facilities and access
to go for a beer in advance. These
and a snack; many are generally lacking,
also specialize in but most places will
seafood or steaks. try to be helpful.
Restaurant in the historic Pousada Castelo As a rule, the better Sign for Maria Rita’s
de Palmela (see p402) hotels also have good (see p407)
eating places, and The Menu
Types of Restaurants pousadas (see pp384–5) Some restaurants, especially
There is a wide range of options have high-quality restaurants those in tourist areas, offer an
to choose from when eating featuring regional specialities. ementa turística, a cheap, daily-
out in Portugal. Among the changing three-course menu
most affordable is the local served with a drink and coffee.
tasca, or taverna, often just a Timings This provides a full meal at a
room with half-a-dozen tables Lunch is usually served good price with no hidden costs.
presided over by a husband- between noon and 3pm. Almoço (lunch) is often a two-
and-wife team. A new wave of During this time many course fixed menu, consisting
tavernas in major cities has restaurants, especially in the of a fish or meat main course,
turned them into fashionable cities, get very crowded. Dinner served with potatoes or rice,
venues. Restaurants range from is served from 7:30 to 10pm in and either a starter or a pudding.
small, cosy affairs to large dining most places, but it can be later To sample a local speciality, ask
rooms with varying degrees of in restaurants and cervejarias in for the prato do dia – the dish
sophistication and formality. major cities and resort areas. of the day.
Jantar (dinner) may be two or
more courses, perhaps followed
by ice cream, fruit, a simple des-
sert or cheese. Casserole-style
dishes, such as fish or meat stews
or carne de porco à alentejana
(pork with clams), are brought
to the table in a pot for people
to share, as are large fish, which
are sold by weight. One serving
can easily be shared by two
people, and it is fine to ask
for a meia dose (half-portion).
Peculiar to Portugal is the plate
of assorted appetizers – olives,
cheese and sardine pâté –
brought with bread at the start
of a meal. These are not included
in the menu price, and may add
substantially to the bill if you
Tables in the beautiful gardens at Vila Joya, Praia da Galé (see p412) don’t send them back.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  397
most popular is a small cup of

strong black coffee similar to an
espresso. In Lisbon and the south
this is called uma bica; elsewhere,
ask for um café. Uma meia de
leite is half coffee, half milk.
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants recommended
on pages 398–414 have been
selected on the basis of their
popularity, quality and value for
The terrace with wonderful ocean views at Riso, Funchal (see p414) money. For each area, a range of
establishments catering to differ
Vegetarians Paying the Bill ent tastes – from traditional,
Vegetarians will not eat as It is common practice to add a homecooked recipes to
well as fish lovers in Portugal, 5–10 per cent tip to bills if you Michelinstarred gourmet
although local cheeses and are satisfied with the service. restaurants – has been included.
breads are excellent. In Lisbon Note that not all restaurants Portugal’s rich culinary heritage
and along the Algarve, vege accept credit cards. is celebrated throughout the
tarians will benefit from ethnic country by restaurants that uphold
restaurants. Chefs will usually ageold cooking techniques to
be happy to provide something Children prepare food from recipes
meatless, though this will The Portuguese are very fond of handed down from generation
probably be a simple omelette children, and most restaurants to generation. Categorized on
or a salad. will serve half or children’s menus as traditional Portuguese
portions of dishes on the menu. cuisine, this type of gastronomy
is complemented by creative
Wine and Drinks chefs who still insist on locally
It would be a shame to visit Smoking sourced ingredients, but cook
Portugal without sampling Smoking is banned from all rest using more stylized and contem
its two most famous fortified aurants in Portugal including porary methods to present
wines: port (see pp258–9) and cafés, though on rare occasions modern Portuguese cuisine. In
Madeira (see p355). Irrespective a separate room is provided for major cities and tourist destina
of the location, a bottle or smokers. Most bars have also tions, a variety of other cuisines
jug of house wine is a perfectly imposed the ban. The law is is also available, including
nice option to wash down a sometimes flouted in rural vegetarian options, seafood
meal. Otherwise, choose one locations. Look for a blue or red and international food.
of Portugal’s many native sign near the entrance; blue The restaurants that are
wines (see pp32–3) from the means that smoking is allowed. highlighted as DK Choice have
wine list. Sagres and Super been chosen for one or more
Bock are good beers, and the exceptional feature. This could
bottled spring water is also Coffee be the impeccable service,
recommended. This comes Coffee is widely drunk in Portugal memorable views, romantic
either com gás (sparkling) or and served in many forms. The atmosphere or celebrated chefs.
sem gás (still).
Cafés and Cake Shops

Fundamental to Portuguese
daily life, cafés vary from plain
modern rooms to splendidly
decorated, tiled and mirrored
places. Many have tables
outside. They usually offer a
limited range of snacks, cakes
and sandwiches. Do not miss
the pastelarias (cake shops),
famed for pastéis de nata. The
sweettoothed Portuguese
adore cakes, and the selection
is usually excellent. The elegant dining room at Estórias na Casa da Comida, Lisbon (see p400)
Where to Eat and Drink

Chapitô à Mesa €€ Price Guide
Lisbon International Map 7 C3 Prices are based on a three-course meal
Costa do Castelo 7, 1149-079 for one, with half a bottle of house wine
Alfama Tel 218 875 077 inclusive of tax and service charges.
Social Mouraria € Choose from several options at € up to €20
International Map 7 C3 this restaurant in a performing €€ €20–€40
€€€ over €40
Beco do Rosendo 8, 1100-460 arts school: bar snacks or grilled
Tel 927 608 398 meats on the outdoor terrace or
This lively restaurant and bar has a more sophisticated à la carte Casa do Alentejo €€
a typical back-street Alfama flavour menu inside the restaurant. Traditional Portuguese Map 7 A2
paired with al fresco dining. An Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58,
innovative menu features dishes Santo António de 1150-268
from all over the world based on Alfama €€ Tel 213 405 140
sustainable ingredients. Traditional Portuguese Map 8 E4 Dine on authentic, hearty
Beco de São Miguel 7, 1100-538 Alentejan fare in the grandeur of
Tentações de Goa € Tel 218 881 328 the 19th-century ballroom or the
Goan Map 7 C3 The creative and distinctly azulejo-lined dining room in this
Rua São Pedro Mártir 23, 1100-555 original food at this romantic wonderful Moorish building.
Tel 218 875 824 Closed Sun; restaurant is enduringly popular.
Mon lunch Black-and-white photographs of Chefe Cordeiro €€
A cheerful establishment with film stars adorn the walls. Modern Portuguese Map 7 B5
brightly painted walls and Pátio da Galé, Terreiro do Paço,
outstanding Goan cuisine. The Casa do Leão €€€ 1400-148
chef tailors the level of spiciness Traditional Portuguese Map 8 D3 Tel 216 080 090
to guests’ tastes. Cash only. Castelo de São Jorge, This stylish gourmet restaurant
1100-129 with a high, vaulted ceiling and an
Bica do Sapato €€ Tel 218 875 962 open kitchen is the creation of
International Map 8 F3 Enjoy fine dining in a historic celebrity chef José Cordeiro. In
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, building with stone walls and addition to the fine dining menu,
Cais da Pedra, 1900-436 azulejo tiles, with spectacular city traditional Portuguese tapas
Tel 218 810 320 Closed Sun dinner; views. Smart, attentive waiters (petiscos) are served all day.
Mon lunch advise guests on food-and-wine
This trendy restaurant with pairings. Reservations in advance. Fábulas €€
minimalist decor in a converted Modern Portuguese Map 7 B5
riverfront warehouse offers a Faz Figura €€€ Calçada Nova de São Francisco 14,
mouthwatering range of meat Modern Portuguese Map 8 F2 1200-300
and vegetarian dishes, including Rua do Paraiso 15B, 1100-395 Tel 216 018 472
Portuguese and Asian fare. Tel 218 868 981 Closed Mon lunch Various seating areas to suit mood
This stylish restaurant draws the and weather are to be found at this
Casanova €€ crowds with both its location and restaurant. The menu features inno-
Italian Map 8 F3 menu. The chef sprinkles an vative Portuguese dishes with a
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique international touch on traditional modern twist and a great wine list.
Armazem B, Cais da Pedra, 1900-264 ingredients. The covered terrace
Tel 218 877 532 looks out on the River Tagus. Marisqueira Santa Marta €€
This trendy riverside restaurant Seafood Map 5 C5
specializes in pizzas. For dessert, Via Graça €€€ Travessa do Enviado de Inglaterra 1D,
try the unusual but delicious Traditional Portuguese Map 8 D1 1150-139
chocolate-spread pizza. No Rua Damasceno Monteiro 9B, Tel 213 525 638
reservations, so try to arrive early. 1170-108 The good-value fare, such as
Tel 218 870 830 Closed Sat seafood rice or stuffed crab,
& Sun lunch keeps the local clientele coming
Its hilltop position gives Via Graça
panoramic city views. Reserve a
window table and order hearty
Portuguese dishes such as
empada de caça (game pie).
Excellent wine list. Reserve ahead.
Baixa and Avenida

Os Tibetanos €
Vegetarian Map 4 F1
Rua do Salitre 117, 1250-198
Tel 213 142 038
With its bright, colourful decor
and leafy garden terrace, this
informal restaurant serves a
selection of hearty Tibetan and
Via Graça, with panoramic views of Lisbon international dishes, including The dining room at Casa do Alentejo, its
from its hilltop location tofu with pesto. Cash only. walls lined with beautiful azulejo tiles
back to this typical, down-to-

earth restaurant. Ideal for families.
Reserve in advance.
Restaurante 33A €€
Traditional Portuguese Map 5 C5
Rua Alexandre Herculano 33A,
1250-008
Tel 213 546 079 Closed Sat lunch;
Sun
A restaurant with an interior of
dark wooden beams and a pretty,
shaded garden. The waiters wear
smart, formal uniforms, but the
ambience is relaxed. There is an
excellent wine list and desserts
are divine.
The sleek, minimalist interior and neutral colour scheme at Eleven
Ribadouro €€
Cervejaria Map 4 F1 Bairro Alto and Estrela pasta dishes are to be
Rua do Salitre 2–12, 1250-200 Pátio do Bairro € recommended. There is a
Tel 213 549 411 Modern Portuguese Map 4 F2 good wine list too.
It is almost obligatory to try the Rua da Atalaia 35–37, 1200-037
fresh whole fish and seafood Tel 914 293 509 Closed lunch A Confraria €€
priced by the kilo here, although This popular restaurant and bar Modern Portuguese Map 4 D3
extremely good steaks and specializes in home-made burgers, York House Hotel, Rua das Janelas
bacalhau dishes are served too. petiscos (Portuguese tapas), sopa Verdes 32, 1200-691
rica do mar (seafood soup) and Tel 213 962 435 Closed Mon & Tue
Eleven €€€ bacalhau à brás (salt cod with lunch
International Map 5 B4 fried potato and onion). In a charming historic building,
Rua Marquês de Fronteira, A Confraria offers an inventive
Jardim Amália Rodrigues, 1070-310 Real Fábrica € menu that reflects the seasonal
Tel 213 862 211 Closed Sun Cervejaria Map 4 E1 offerings. Excellent wine list.
At one of Lisbon’s top gourmet Rua da Escola Politécnica 275,
restaurants, the elegant 1250-101 Decadente €€
atmosphere and refined decor Tel 213 852 090 Closed Sun Modern Portuguese Map 7 A3
contribute to a unique fine- Seafood and steaks are served Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 81,
dining experience. There are in this former silk factory. Try the 1250-238
tasting, à la carte and lobster- cataplana (fish stew) along with Tel 213 461 381
themed menus. Reserve ahead. a variety of well-prepared Chic decor, a relaxed atmosphere
seafood dishes. and creative twists to traditional
Gambrinus €€€ favourites make this a popular
Seafood Map 7 B2 Bota Alta €€ choice. Fabulous cocktails.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23, Traditional Portuguese Map 7 A3
1150-264 Travessa da Queimada 35–37, Picanha €€
Tel 213 421 466 1200-364 Brazilian Map 4 D4
Wooden furniture, stained-glass Tel 213 427 959 Closed Sat lunch; Sun Rua das Janelas Verdes 96, 1200-692
panels and murals create a The attractive interior here is Tel 213 975 401 Closed Sun dinner;
sophisticated atmosphere at decorated with ceramics and Mon
this well-established favourite. paintings. Try the costeletas This is the perfect place for a top-
The conch shell filled with fumadas à algarvia (smoked ribs quality steak grilled on an open
seafood is a speciality. Algarve-style). fire. Blue-and-white azulejo panels
decorate the walls. Book ahead.
Pabe €€€ Café Buenos Aires €€
International Map 5 C5 Steakhouse Map 7 A3
Rua Duque de Palmela 27A, 1250-097 Calçada Escadinhas do Duque 31B, DK Choice
Tel 213 537 484 1200-155 Taberna da Esperança €€
The mock-Tudor façade, beamed Tel 213 420 739 Modern Portuguese Map 4 E3
ceilings and wooden walls Enjoy succulent and cooked-to- Rua Esperança 112, 1120-114
recreate a traditional English pub perfection Argentinian steaks in a Tel 213 962 744 Closed Mon,
atmosphere. The fare includes cosy, unpretentious setting. As an Tue–Fri lunch
roasted sea bass, breaded squid accompaniment, try the flower This warm and friendly taverna
and charcoal-grilled baby goat. salad. Reserve ahead. Cash only. serves traditional Portuguese
cuisine with a modern twist.
Solar dos Presuntos €€€ Casanostra €€ Expect helpful explanations and
Traditional Portuguese Map 7 A2 Italian Map 7 A3 advice regarding the inventive
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150, Travessa do Poço da Cidade 60, tapas menu. Eclectic furniture
1150-269 1200-334 and fading posters create a
Tel 213 424 253 Closed Sun Tel 213 425 931 Closed Sat lunch relaxed, informal ambience.
A great place to try presunto This friendly restaurant with Perfect for all – solo travellers,
(cured ham), as well as a range of simple, bright decor is popular couples and groups. Reservations
meat and fish dishes. Excellent with locals and visitors alike. All highly recommended. Cash only.
wine list. Reserve in advance. of the delicious, home-made
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 396–7
Tasca da Esquina €€ one. Enjoy typical Portuguese Espaço Lisboa €€

Modern Portuguese Map 3 C2 dishes in the downstairs area Traditional Portuguese Map 3 A4
Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C, 1350-119 or select from the refined Rua da Cozinha Económica 16, 1300-149
Tel 210 993 939 Closed Mon lunch; international menu upstairs. Tel 213 610 210 Closed lunch; Sun
Sun Known as “The Grill of Lisbon”,
Enjoy a vibrant atmosphere in a Pap’Açorda €€€ this grand restaurant specializes
contemporary setting. Signature Traditional Portuguese Map 4 F3 in grilled and roasted meats.
dishes include tuna with sweet Mercado da Ribeira, Av. 24 de Julho 49 It also serves fish dishes,
potato and skate boiled in olive Tel 213 464 811 Closed Mon including an impressive
oil. Portuguese-style tapas and Popular for more than 30 years, cataplana (seafood casserole).
tasting menus are also available. this elegant restaurant is named
after its signature dish, açorda Este Oeste €€
Trivial €€ (bready stew). Book ahead. Italian/Japanese Map 1 B5
Traditional Portuguese Map 4 F2 Centro Cultural de Belém, Praça do
Rua da Palmeira 44A, 1200-314 Restaurante Lapa €€€ Império, 1449-003
Tel 213 473 552 Closed lunch; Sun Portuguese / Italian Map 3 C3 Tel 215 904 358 Closed Mon
Trivial is popular with locals for Olissippo Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau de Este (east) meets Oeste (west)
reliable, good-quality food served Bandeira 4, 1249-021 in the form of freshly prepared
in a laid-back, intimate setting. Tel 213 949 494 sushi and wood-oven-baked
Try the chicken with Elvas plums. Housed in a 19th-century palace, pizzas at this restaurant. The
this refined restaurant serves river views are magnificent.
Würst €€ gourmet dishes such as leitão de
German/Austrian Map 4 E2 Bairrada (Bairrada-style suckling Nosolo Italia €€
Mercado de São Bento, Rua Nova da pig). The wine list is exemplary. Italian Map 1 B5
Piedade 1200-297 Avenida Brasilia 202, 1400-038
Tel 918 905 325 Closed Mon & Tue Sea Me €€€ Tel 213 015 969
Home-made Austrian-style sausages Seafood Map 4 F3 Excellent pizzas and ice creams,
are the staple item on the menu Rua do Loreto 21, 1200-049 are served at this glass-walled
at this organic-based eatery close Tel 213 461 564 restaurant with a terrace that
to the parliament building. Specializing in Portuguese and overhangs the River Tagus.
Vegetarians are also well catered for. Japanese cuisines, Sea Me’s chef There is also a children’s menu.
prepares fresh seafood dishes and
Bistro 100 Maneiras €€€ the best sushi in town. Book ahead. Vela Latina €€€
International Map 7 A3 Modern Portuguese Map 1 B5
Largo Trindade 9, 1200-466 Doca do Bom Sucesso, 1400-038
Tel 210 990 475 Closed lunch Belém Tel 213 017 118 Closed Sun
A trendy, glamorous bistro with 5 Oceanos €€ Set in lush gardens, this peaceful
a creative menu that draws a Modern Portuguese Map 3 A5 and stylish restaurant has views
fashionable clientele. The upstairs Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 12, of the river and the marina.
dining area is quite romantic. 1350-353 Menu highlights include lobster-
Tel 213 978 015 filled crêpes and hake fillet
La Brasserie de l’Entrecôte €€€ This stylish restaurant by the river with rice.
Steakhouse Map 7 A4 focuses largely on fresh fish and
Rua do Alecrim 117, 1200-016 seafood. House favourites include
Tel 213 473 616 cataplana (seafood casserole) Further Afield
This elegant restaurant with an and curried lobster with prawns. António €
Art Deco interior offers only one Traditional Portuguese Map 5 C3
dish: perfectly tender entrecôte Belém 2 a 8 €€ Rua Tomás Ribeiro 63, 1050-226
steak with a special sauce made Traditional Portuguese Map 1 C4 Tel 213 538 780 Closed Sun
with herbs and other ingredients. Rua de Belém 2, 1300-085 Popular with locals, this simple
Tel 213 639 055 restaurant serves good-value,
Estórias na Casa da Comida €€€ This brightly decorated restaurant large portions of tasty
Modern Portuguese Map 5 B5 is next door to the Palácio de Belém Portuguese dishes. The lunch
Travessa das Amoreiras 1, 1250-025 and is known for its, hearty fare. menu changes daily.
Tel 213 860 889 Closed Mon–Sat
lunch; Sun
A carefully selected wine list
accompanies the mouthwatering
haute cuisine at this restaurant.
For a romantic meal in a
sophisticated setting, ask for a
table in or overlooking the garden.
Kais €€€
Traditional Portuguese /
International Map 4 D4
Cais da Viscondessa, Rua da Cintura,
Santos, 1200-109
Tel 213 932 930 Closed Sun, Mon,
Tue–Sat lunch
Housed in a riverside warehouse
and featuring industrial-chic
decor, Kais is two restaurants in The fashionable Bistro 100 Maneiras, Lisbon
Cenário €€€ CASCAIS: O Pescador €€

Modern Portuguese Map 5 C1 Seafood Map B5
Avenida 5 de Outubro 197, 1050-054 Rua das Flores 10B, 2750-348
Tel 210 435 000 Tel 214 832 054 Closed Mon
An innovative menu that changes This well-established restaurant
according to the seasons is has a distinctly nautical interior
offered at this stylish, elegant to match the firm emphasis on
restaurant in a 5-star hotel. There seafood and fresh fish.
is also an extensive wine list.
CASCAIS: Taberna da Praça €€
Traditional Portuguese Map B5
Cidadela de Cascais, Avenida Dom
The Lisbon Coast Carlos I, 2750-310
Tel 214 820 515
ALCÁCER DO SAL: Pousada Located inside an old fortress and
Dom Afonso II €€ part of a pousada, this restaurant
International Map C6 serves traditional food made with
Castelo de Alcácer do Sal, 7580-197 local ingredients. House specials
Elegant table settings at the Pousada Tel 265 613 070 include caldeirada (fish casserole)
Castelo, Alcácer do Sal The river-influenced menu here and tuna steaks with sautéed onion.
features starters such as clam
Cervejaria Portugália €€ fish soup. Mains include roast CASCAIS: Gourmet
Cervejaria Map 6 E4 cod and rack of lamb. Restaurant €€€
Avenida Almirante Reis 117, 1115-014 Modern Portuguese Map B5
Tel 213 140 002 CASCAIS: Mayura € Avenida Marginal 8554, 2775-536
This flagship of a chain of brewery Indian Map B5 Tel 210 060 600 Closed lunch daily
restaurants serves excellent Rua Freitas Reis 15B, 2750-357 The regularly changing gourmet
steaks and seafood. Try the bread Tel 214 846 540 menu and wine list are worth
stew with prawns, and wash it An informal and friendly getting dressed up for at this
down with the house beer. restaurant with a loyal clientele. fine-dining restaurant in a
On the menu are consistently romantic setting at the Hotel
Forno d’Oro €€ good Indian and Goan dishes. Miragem, overlooking the marina.
Italian Map 5 A4
Rua Artilharia Um 16, 1250-039 CASCAIS: Casa Velha €€ CASCAIS: The Mix €€€
Tel 213 879 944 Seafood Map B5 Mediterranean / Sushi Map B5
Traditional ales and Italian pizzas Avenida Valbom 1, 2750-508 Avenida Rei Humberto de Itália 7,
baked in a large oven dominate Tel 214 832 586 2750-461
the menu at this restaurant. Stone walls and a ceiling draped Tel 214 823 490
Located in the heart of Lisbon’s with fishing nets create a rustic, Part of the five-star Farol Hotel
business district. homely ambience. Popular complex, this modern, elegant
dishes include caldeirada de peixe restaurant serves beautifully
La Gondola €€ (fish stew), cherne grelhado presented and imaginative fusion
Portuguese / Italian Map 5 B2 (grilled sea bass) and paella. dishes in three distinct dining areas.
Avenida de Berna 64, 1050-043
Tel 217 970 426 CASCAIS: Dom Manolo €€ ESTORIL: Pinto’s €
Choose from a range of home- Traditional Portuguese Map B5 International Map B5
made pasta dishes or traditional Avenida Marginal 13, 2750-367 Avenida Clotilde 52, 2715-311
Portuguese fare at this bright, Tel 214 831 126 Tel 214 687 247 Closed Wed
spacious restaurant with a A menu highlight at Dom A restaurant that is good for snacks
pretty garden. Monola is chicken piri-piri, as well as more substantial meals.
but it is also popular for its The menu ranges from salads
Laurentina €€ grilled sardines and pork ribs and burgers to pizza and shellfish.
Traditional Portuguese Map 5 B2 with bacon.
Avenida Conde Valbom 71A, 1050-067 ESTORIL: Estoril Mandarin €€€
Tel 217 960 260 Chinese Map B5
Lisbon’s self-proclaimed “King of Praça José Teodoro dos Santos,2765-237
Cod“ serves an extensive range of Tel 214 667 270 Closed Mon & Tue
bacalhau dishes, as well as tasty This plush restaurant situated
meats, such as roast lamb. Live in the Casino Estoril is considered
fado music on Thursday nights. the best place in Portugal to
sample Chinese food. Specialities
O Polícia €€ include Peking duck and dim sum.
Traditional Portuguese Map 5 B2
Rua Marquês Sá da Bandeira 112A, ESTORIL: Four Seasons Grill €€€
1050-158 International Map B5
Tel 217 963 505 Closed Sat dinner; Rua da Particular, 2769-504
Sun Tel 214 648 000 Closed lunch daily
This award-winning, family-run Located in the Hotel Palácio, this
restaurant with a non-touristy sophisticated fine dining venue
feel prides itself on its traditional features a seasonally changing
Portuguese cuisine, especially decor. The superb gourmet dishes
the seafood. Sample the The sign outside Laurentina, also known as are complemented by an inspired
delicious monkfish kebab. “The King of Cod” wine list and attentive service.

The dining room at Cozinha Velha, in Queluz, dominated by a large stone chimney
GUINCHO: Restaurante PAÇO D’ARCOS: Aquarela SETÚBAL: Poço das

Bar do Guincho €€ do Brasil € Fontainhas €€
International Map B5 Brazilian Map B5 Seafood Map C5
Estrado do Abano 547, 2755-144 Praça 5 de Outubro 12, 2770-029 Rua das Fontainhas 98, 2910-082
Tel 214 871 683 Closed Mon (except Tel 214 415 412 Closed Sun dinner, Tel 265 534 807 Closed Mon
May–Aug) Mon The focus here is firmly on fresh
This beach restaurant serves With a name that means seafood and fish. Try the caldeirada
a range of salads, sandwiches “watercolour of Brazil“, expect art à setúbalense (fish stew). Not easy
and burgers, as well as more on the walls of this restaurant. The to find but well worth the effort.
substantial meat dishes. This is a menu features superb Brazilian
great place to watch the sunset. food as well as Portuguese tapas. SINTRA: Tulhas €
Traditional Portuguese Map B5
PALMELA: Pousada Castelo Rua Gil Vicente 4–6, 2710-568
DK Choice Palmela €€ Tel 219 232 378
GUINCHO: Porto de Santa International Map C5 Small, friendly place with a rustic
Maria €€€ Castelo de Palmela, 2950-317 atmosphere. Serves wholesome
Traditional Portuguese / Tel 212 351 226 home-made dishes, as well as deli-
Seafood Map B5 This romantic, luxurious restaurant cious cheese and wines, including
Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642 is located in a former monastery. the house red. Book in advance.
Tel 214 879 450 Specialities include grilled tiger
Elegant furnishings are prawns, sautéed pork tenderloin SINTRA: Monserrate €€
complemented by rustic and traditional chicken stew. International / Traditional
touches at this award-winning Portuguese Map B5
beachside restaurant. The menu PORTINHO DA ARRÁBIDA: Praça de República, 2710-616
features a vast range of freshly O Farol €€ Tel 219 237 200
caught, exquisite fish and Seafood Map C5 Housed in the chic Tivoli Hotel,
seafood dishes, priced by the Portinho da Arrábida, 2925-378 this restaurant offers fabulous
kilo. Roast sea bream is one of Tel 212 181 177 Closed Mon views of the Sintra Valley. Try
the house specialities. Book ahead. This popular seafood restaurant at the Sintra-style fish soup, followed
the water’s edge offers good value by the braised salmon fillets.
for money. The rock lobster with Book ahead.
MONTE ESTORIL: O Sinaleiro € rice and clams and sea bass straight
Traditional Portuguese Map B5 off the boat are house favourites. SINTRA: Lawrence’s €€€
Avenida de Sabóia 595, 2765-278 Traditional Portuguese Map B5
Tel 214 685 439 Closed Wed QUELUZ: Cozinha Velha €€ Rua Consigliéri Pedroso 38–40,
This simple restaurant and International Map B5 2710-550
bar serves good-quality fare, Palácio Nacional de Queluz, 2745-191 Tel 219 105 500
with some unusual dishes on Tel 214 356 158 Enjoy fine dining in this historic
the largely traditional menu. The original stone chimney is the hotel popular with celebrities.
Great for full meals, snacks centrepiece of this eatery housed Choose from an outstanding à
or takeaways. in the palace kitchens. A highlight la carte menu and an extensive
of the creative menu is the bacalhau wine list. Impeccable service.
MONTE ESTORIL: grelhado (grilled cod). There is live
Tertúlia do Monte € harp music on Friday evenings. SINTRA: Restaurante Palácio
Traditional Portuguese / de Seteais €€€
International Map B5 SESIMBRA: Ribamar €€ International Map B5
Avenida de Sabóia 515D, 2765-502 Seafood Map C5 Rua Barbosa do Bocage 8, 2710-517
Tel 214 681 508 Closed Sat lunch; Avenida dos Náufragos 29, 2970-637 Tel 219 233 200
Sun Tel 212 234 853 The luxurious and elegant decor
The menu at this fashionable This colourful restaurant is said adds a touch of romance to the
restaurant features dishes such as to be one of the best in the fine-dining experience here. Top-
risotto with curried prawns and region. The imaginative chef class nouvelle cuisine features
duck cooked in port wine. Save regularly updates the menu regional delicacies with French
room for the delicious desserts. with tasty original concoctions. and Italian influences.
CALDAS DA RAINHA: A Lareira € LEIRIA: Tromba Rija €€

Estremadura and Traditional Portuguese / Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Ribatejo International
Rua da Lareira 35, 2500-593
Map B4 Rua Professores Portelas 22,
2400-406
ABRANTES: Cascata € Tel 262 823 432 Tel 244 855 072 Closed Sun dinner;
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 With four different dining areas, Mon
Rua Manuel Lopes Valente Júnior this huge restaurant caters for Take advantage of the huge
19A, 2200-260 events, as well as small groups. starter buffet to sample various
Tel 241 361 011 Closed Sun & It offers a constantly changing Portuguese delicacies at this
Mon dinner menu do dia (daily set menu) and homely restaurant, but leave
This award-winning restaurant a good wine list. room for the main course – the
offers top-quality regional dishes pork and bean stew is a must.
such as bacalhau ao broa (baked CALDAS DA RAINHA:
cod with corn bread) and roast kid. Adega do Albertino €€ NAZARÉ: O Luis €
Traditional Portuguese Map B4 Traditional Portuguese Map C4
ABRANTES: Sabores Rua Júlio Sousa 7, 2500-312 Rua dos Tanques 7, Sítio,
da Cascata €€ Tel 262 835 152 Closed Sun dinner; 2450-065
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 Mon Tel 262 551 826 Closed Thu
Edifício de São Domingos, Rua de Traditional decor and checked Take the funicular to this
São Domingos, 2º Piso, 2200-392 tablecloths make up the rustic simply decorated restaurant.
Tel 241 364 453 interior of this restaurant. The speciality is o barco (a
Fried shad (in season) headlines Specialities include pork ribs with platter fashioned to look like
the menu at this restaurant, along wine, honey and almonds, and a boat, filled with seafood of
with other typical, delicious octopus on roof tile with shrimps. the day), which goes well with
Ribatejan specialities. vinho verde.
FÁTIMA: O Convite €€
ABRANTES: Santa Isabel €€ International Map C4 NAZARÉ: Mar Bravo €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 Rua Jacinto Marto 100, 2495-000 Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Rua Santa Isabel 12, 2200-393 Tel 249 539 330 Praça Sousa Oliveira 71,
Tel 967 893 970 Closed Sun This stylish restaurant is renowned 2450-159
This small restaurant with a rustic for its attractively presented Tel 262 569 160 Closed Tue (Nov–
ambience has a menu that centres gourmet cuisine; dishes include Feb)
on meat dishes. Try the migas de braised duck in orange sauce. The à la carte menu at Mar Bravo
alheira (poultry sausage with offers seafood dishes such as
breadcrumbs) and the fried eels. mussels, arroz de marisco (sea-
DK Choice food with rice) and cataplana.
ALCOBAÇA: Trindade € FÁTIMA: Tia Alice €€ Meat eaters, vegetarians and
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 Traditional Portuguese Map C4 children are well catered for.
Praça Dom Afonso Henriques 22 Rua do Adro 152, 2495-557
Tel 262 582 397 Tel 249 531 737 Closed Sun ÓBIDOS: O Alcaide €€
The quality of the food makes this dinner; Mon; 11–31 Jul Traditional Portuguese Map B4
well-established restaurant a local Chef Tia Alice pours great Rua Direita 60, 2510-001
favourite. Recommended dishes culinary skills and secret Tel 262 959 220 Closed Wed
include arroz de pato (duck rice) ingredients into her exquisite This small, traditionally
and arroz de marisco (seafood rice). Estremaduran dishes at this furnished restaurant with a
simple, rustic restaurant. Try cosy ambience serves a range
ALCOBAÇA: Sentidos €€ the veal roasted in a wood of well-cooked and beautifully
Modern Portuguese Map C4 oven or the açorda de camarão presented dishes. The
Rua Manuel Rodrigues Serrazina (prawn and bread stew). medallions of beef with port
Fervença, 2460-743 wine are delicious.
Tel 262 505 370
Relaxed elegance is the setting
here in which to enjoy regional
dishes from a daily changing menu.
ALMEIRIM: Toucinho €
Traditional Portuguese Map C4
Rua do Timor 2, 2080-103
Tel 243 592 237 Closed Thu
Family-run restaurant best known
for its sopa de pedra (stone soup).
The interiors are decorated with
posters of bullfights. Book ahead.
BATALHA: Vintage €€
Largo Mestre Afonso Domingues 6
Tel 244 765 260
Daily specials at this smart restaurant
in the Mestre Afonso Domingues
hotel feature regional favourites,
including the bacalhau à Portuguesa
(Portuguese-style cod). The elegant interior of Tia Alice, in Fátima, offset by rustic touches

ÓBIDOS: Castelo €€€ TOMAR: Calça Perra €€ such as cabrito grelhado com
International Map B4 Traditional Portuguese Map C4 migas de batata (grilled kid with
Paço Real, 2510-999 Rua Pedro Dias 59, 2300-589 creamed potato) and doce de
Tel 262 955 080 Tel 249 321 616 Closed Sun dinner; amêndoa (almond pudding).
Enjoy gourmet cuisine at this Mon (Oct–Apr)
pousada. Specialities include Beautiful gardens surround this AVEIRO: O Bairro €€
monkfish with shrimps and rice charming restaurant. Regional International Map C3
and trouxas de ovos (egg pudding). specialities include lamprey, when Largo do Praca do Peixe 24, 3800-243
in season. Good set lunch menus. Tel 234 338 567 Closed Wed
PENICHE: Estelas €€ The gourmet dishes here, cooked
Seafood Map B4 TOMAR: Chico Elias €€ by a creative chef, include
Rua Arquitecto Paulino Montês 21, Traditional Portuguese Map C4 pumpkin soup with prawn and
2520-294 Rua Principal 70, Algarvias, 2300-302 poultry sausage. Be sure to leave
Tel 262 782 435 Tel 249 311 067 Closed Tue room for the exquisite desserts.
This award-winning restaurant is An interesting menu of traditional
enduringly popular with locals. recipes with imaginative twists AVEIRO: Mercado do Peixe €€
Be sure to try the local Berlenga is offered at this family-run Seafood Map C3
sea bass. It has an extensive wine restaurant – such as feijoada de Largo do Praça do Peixe, 3800-243
list and a homely atmosphere. caracoís (snail and bean stew) and Tel 234 351 303 Closed Sun dinner,
rabbit cooked inside a pumpkin. Mon
PENICHE: Marisqueira Ultra-fresh seafood is served here.
Cortiçais €€ TORRES VEDRAS: O Pátio The fish soup makes a superb starter,
Seafood Map B4 do Faustino € and the caldeiradas are delicious.
Porto d’Areia Sul, 2520-000 Traditional Portuguese Map B5
Tel 262 787 262 Closed Wed Largo do Choupal, 2560-000 BELMONTE: Pousada do
A waterfront restaurant that Tel 261 324 346 Closed Mon Convento de Belmonte €€
serves very fresh seafood. The The menu at this rustic restaurant International Map D3
arroz de marisco (seafood rice) includes bacalhau com grão (cod Serra da Esperança, 6250-073
and the festival de marisco with chickpeas) and porco à Tel 275 910 300
(shellfish platter) are excellent. alentejana (pork, potato and clams). A beautiful restaurant with original
stone features and wonderful
SANTARÉM: Taberna do VILA FRANCA DE XIRA: mountain views. The gourmet
Quinzena € O Forno €€ dishes on the tasting menu or
Traditional Portuguese Map C4 Traditional Portuguese Map C5 à la carte are equally impressive.
Rua Pedro de Santarém 93–95, 2000-223 Rua Doutor Miguel Bombarda 143,
Tel 243 322 804 Closed Sun 2600-000 BUÇACO: Palace Hotel do
Established in 1872, Quinzena Tel 263 282 106 Closed Mon Bussaco €€€
serves great local fare such as This traditional restaurant serves Modern Portuguese Map C3
porco preto (Iberian pork) and ovos plenty of oven-baked dishes, as Mata do Bussaco, 3050-261
mexidos com farinheira (scrambled well as meat and seafood kebabs. Tel 231 937 970
eggs with flour sausage). There is also a good selection of Arched, lace stonework on the
wines and desserts. windows here makes for a
TOMAR: Casa das Ratas / romantic setting in which to enjoy
Casa Matreno € superb cuisine.
Rua do Doutor Joaquim Jacinto 7, The Beiras CARAMULO: Montanha €
2300-550 Traditional Portuguese Map C3
Tel 249 315 237 Closed Sun dinner; ALMEIDA: Hotel Fortaleza Rua do Clube, 3475-031
Mon de Almeida €€ Tel 232 862 008 Closed Tue
This is two restaurants with a Traditional Portuguese Map E2 Rustic restaurant in the heart of
shared kitchen and menu. The Rua da Muralha, Almeida, 6350-112 Serra do Caramulo serving superb
polvo à lagareiro (baked octopus) is Tel 271 574 283 mountain fare. The chanfana na
recommended, and the ratatouille On the menu at this elegant hotel púcara (meat stew) and rojões da
is a delicious vegetarian option. restaurant are regional delicacies aldeia (chunks of fried pork belly)
are specialities. Sit outdoors in
the garden during summer.
CASTELO BRANCO: O Espeto €€

Traditional Portuguese Map D4
Estrada dos Buenos Aires 23, 6000-069
Tel 272 320 956 Closed Mon
Bright, spacious eatery with an out-
door patio, featuring an extensive
regional-style buffet with a good
selection of barbecued meats.
COIMBRA: Fangas
Mercearia Bar €
Modern Portuguese Map C3
Rua Fernandes Tomás 45–49, 3000-168
Tel 934 093 636
This small, cheerful restaurant,
Refined dining at Castelo, housed in a pousada in Óbidos bar and grocery store specializes
eagle-nest retreat. Diners also

enjoy head-spinning views and
fresh mountain air.
MEALHADA: Pedro
dos Leitões €€
Rua Álvaro Pedro 1, 3050-382
Tel 231 209 950
This is just the place to try leitão
(spit-roasted suckling pig) – it is
outstanding. There are plenty of
non-pork options as well.
MONSANTO: Petiscos
e Granitos €
Traditional Portuguese Map E3
Rua da Pracinha 16, 6060-091
Classy, opulent interiors of the restaurant at the Palace Hotel do Bussaco in Buçaco Try the baked octopus with
cheese and the scrambled eggs
in interesting healthy snacks. CONDEIXA-A-NOVA: with asparagus at this restaurant
Perfect for a light lunch; for a Santa Cristina €€ with granite boulders
more substantial meal, order Modern Portuguese Map C3 incorporated into the walls.
several dishes. Rua Francisco de Lemos, 3150-142
Tel 239 944 025 SORTELHA: Dom Sancho I €€
The menu at this sophisticated Traditional Portuguese Map D3
DK Choice restaurant is packed with regional Largo do Corro, 6320-536
COIMBRA: A Taberna €€ delicacies. Try the bacalhau Tel 271 388 267 Closed Sun dinner;
Traditional Portuguese Map C3 assado (roast cod). Mon
Rua dos Combatentes da Grande The open fireplace here is warm
Guerra 86, 3030-181 FIGUEIRA DA FOZ: Paquette € and welcoming, and the menu
Tel 239 716 265 Closed Sun Traditional Portuguese Map C3 features substantial dishes such
dinner; Mon lunch Avenida Brasil 12, 3080-322 as guisado de javali com batata
Diners can see their food Tel 233 418 488 Closed Wed cozida e castanhas (stewed wild-
cooking in the wood-fired This simple, traditional restaurant boar with boiled potatoes) and
oven at this lovely eatery. with sea views is good for snacks caldeira de borrego (lamb stew).
Waiters serve a selection or full meals. Try the açorda de
of vegetables at the table camarão (prawn and bread stew) VISEU: Casablanca €
and come back for second or prato do dia (dish of the day). Seafood Map D3
helpings. The veal dishes Avenida Emídio Navarro 70–72,
are tender and delicious, GOUVEIA: Lá em Casa € 3500-124
as is the octopus. The home- Traditional Portuguese Map D3 Tel 232 422 239 Closed Tue (Oct–
made bread with requeijão Avenida Dom Manuel I 4, 6290-320 Jun)
(ricotta) is divine. Tel 238 491 983 Closed Sun dinner; This bright, spacious restaurant
Mon specializes in seafood. The arroz
Mountain fare with an innovative de polvo com gambas (octopus
COIMBRA: O Trovador €€ twist. Try the award-winning pork and prawn rice) is a must. There
Traditional Portuguese Map C3 tenderloin stuffed with Serra are plenty of meat dishes too.
Largo Sé Velha 15–17, cheese with black pudding sauce, Reserve in advance.
3000-383 or the roast kid with chestnuts.
Tel 239 825 475 Closed Sun; VISEU: Churrasqueira Santa
1–15 Jan GUARDA: O Ferrinho € Eulália €
This traditional restaurant with Traditional Portuguese Map D3 Traditional Portuguese Map D3
rustic decor serves regional Rua Francisco de Passos 21, Avenida Luís Martins 86, 3500-719
dishes such as chanfana (goat 6300-558 Tel 232 436 283
and red wine casserole). Live Tel 271 211 990 Closed Thu (Nov– This unpretentious restaurant
fado music sometimes May) specializes in grilled meats but
accompanies meals on Friday Regional dishes fill the menu in offers fish and seafood dishes
and Saturday evenings. this rustic restaurant. The trout too. The wine list features local
stuffed with presunto ham is Dão wines.
COIMBRA: Arcadas delicious, as is the guisado de
da Cappella €€€ javali (wild boar stew). VISEU: Muralhas da Sé €€
International Map C3 Traditional Portuguese Map D3
Rua António Augusto Gonçalves, MANTEIGAS: Casa das Penhas Adro da Sé 24, 3500-195
3041-901 Douradas €€ Tel 232 437 777 Closed Sun dinner;
Tel 239 802 380 Closed lunch Traditional Portuguese Map D4 Tue
The gourmet menu at this Penhas Douradas, Apartado 9, Granite walls and warm colours
luxurious, romantic restaurant in 6260-200 at this restaurant create an
the Quinta das Lágrimas changes Tel 275 981 045 intimate atmosphere in which
with the seasons but never fails A wide range of regional-style to enjoy artistically presented
to delight, serving great portions specialities are served in a regional dishes, cooked to a high
of global food. gleaming dining room at this standard. Extensive wine list.

BRAGANÇA: Solar LAMEGO: Vindouro €€€

Bragançano € Mediterranean Map D2
Traditional Portuguese Map E1 Rua Macário de Castro 39, 5100-179
Praça da Sé 34, 5300-271 Tel 254 401 698 Closed Sun dinner,
Tel 273 323 875 Closed Mon (Oct– Mon
Jun) Set in a prime location close
Game dishes and chestnuts to the cathedral, this stylish
feature prominently on the menu eatery offers a choice of à la
at this family-run restaurant in an carte and executive menus
old mansion with an inner patio. with the emphasis on
contemporary cuisine.
BRAGANÇA: Geadas €€
Traditional Portuguese Map E1 LEÇA DA PALMEIRA:
Rua do Loreto, 5300-189 O Chanquinhas €€
Tel 273 324 413 Closed Sun dinner International Map C2
This family-friendly restaurant Rua de Santana 243, 4450-000
attracts guests for the peaceful Tel 229 951 884 Closed Sun dinner;
views of the River Fervença, as 1–15 Aug
well as the quality of the food. Delicious cuisine is served at
Elegant table setting at Pousada Palacete The partridge with chestnuts this elegant restaurant in a
Alijó, a pousada in a historic building alone makes it worth a visit. former mansion. The wine list
is impressive, as are the desserts.
CHAVES: Adega do Faustino € Try the pão de ló (sponge cake).
Douro and Trás-os- Traditional Portuguese Map D1
Montes Travessa Cândido Reis, Santa Maria
Maior, 5400-423
MIRANDA DO DOURO:
A Balbina €
ALIJÓ: Cêpa Torta €€ Tel 276 322 142 Closed Sun; 1–20 Jan Traditional Portuguese Map E1
Modern Portuguese Map D2 Diners enjoy a good range of Rua Rainha Dona Catarina 1, 5210-228
Rua Dr José Bulas Cruz, 5070-047 tapas, meat and fish dishes at Tel 273 432 394
Tel 259 950 177 Closed Sun dinner; this former wine cellar lined The home-cooked meals at this
Mon with ancient barrels and jugs. no-frills restaurant include posta
The modern, sophisticated decor à mirandesa (Mirandese steak).
here matches the gourmet cuisine CHAVES: Carvalho €€ Service is friendly and efficient.
of well-presented Portuguese Traditional Portuguese Map D1 Cash only.
fare with a modern twist. Largo das Caldas 4, 5400-523
Tel 276 321 727 Closed Sun dinner; MIRANDA DO DOURO:
ALIJÓ: Pousada Palacete Alijó €€ Mon Capa d’Honras €
Modern Portuguese Map D2 The traditional marble and wood Traditional Portuguese Map E1
Rua José Rufino, 5070-031 interior at Carvalho complements Travessa do Castelo 1, 5210-234
Tel 259 959 215 the regional fare served. Order the Tel 273 432 699
The loyal clientele returns for linguiça assada (flame-grilled A memorable steak and excellent
regional treats such as alheira sausage) and enjoy the views. cabrito (kid) can be enjoyed at
(poultry sausage) and lamb stew this unpretentious restaurant
at this award-winning restaurant GIMONDE: Dom Roberto € named after the traditional
in a historic building. Traditional Portuguese Map E1 capes worn by the local elite.
Rua Coronel Álvaro Cepeda 1, N 218,
AMARANTE: Estoril € 5300-553 MIRANDELA: Flor de Sal €€
Traditional Portuguese Map D2 Tel 273 302 510 Modern Portuguese Map D1
Rua 31 de Janeiro 150, 4600-043 Decor consisting of ancient Parque Dr José Gama, 5370-000
Tel 255 431 291 farm equipment underlines Tel 278 203 063 Closed Sun dinner,
Tasty, wholesome food, such as Dom Roberto’s pastoral heritage. Mon
lamb stew with plenty of vegetables, Be sure to try the award-winning This elegant, contemporary
is served at this restaurant. caldo de cascas (bean-shell soup). riverside restaurant serves
DK Choice
AMARANTE: Largo
do Paço €€€
International Map D2
Largo do Paço 6, 4600-017
Tel 255 410 830
The elegant Largo do Paço
offers a culinary experience to
satisfy the most refined and
demanding of palates. Located
in the historic Casa da Calçada
hotel (see p391), this award-
winning restaurant boasts a
Michelin star. Chef André Silva
changes the tasting menus
seasonally to incorporate the
freshest available ingredients.
Geadas in Bragança, with its exposed-brick columns
award-winning cuisine based on

fresh local ingredients. A tasting
menu is also available.
PESO DA RÉGUA: Douro In €€

Modern Portuguese Map D2
Avenida João Franco, 5050-264
Tel 254 098 075
A modern, sophisticated wine
bar and restaurant overlooking
the Douro. On the menu are
creative renditions of traditional
Portuguese dishes and a choice
of vintage Douro wines.
PESO DA RÉGUA: Varanda

da Régua €€ The spacious interior of Camafeu in Porto
Traditonal Portuguese Map D2
Lugar da Boavista, 5050-000 with vegetarian options. Try PORTO: Oficina €€
Tel 254 336 949 Closed Mon (Apr) the marinated sardines or the International Map C2
There are three dining areas, all mushroom toast. R. Miguel Bombarda 273-282
offering panoramic river views, at Tel 220 165 807 Closed Sun,
this large, family-run eatery. The PORTO: Camafeu €€ Mon lunch
adventurous should try enchidos Modern Portuguese Map C2 The main focus of this
de região (regional sausages). Praça de Carlos Alberto 83, 4050-158 contemporary-style restaurant
Tel 937 493 557 Closed Sun & Mon, located in a former automobile
PORTO: Casa das Tortas € lunch Tue–Sat shop is the fusion between art
Traditional Portuguese Map C2 Traditional eatery with a varied and cuisine. Try the fresh scallops
Rua Passos Manuel 181, 400-382 menu and friendly, personalised with salmon roe.
Tel 222 004 338 service. Try the roast octopus or
Traditional home-made cod with chick pea purée and PORTO: Portucale €€
Portuguese fare dominates the crust of corn bread. International Map C2
menu at this restaurant-cum- Rua da Alegria 598, 4000-037
pastry shop. Opt for the popular PORTO: Casa Aleixo €€ Tel 225 370 717
house special, alheira especial Traditional Portuguese Map C2 This famous hotel-restaurant with
com ovo (garlic sausage with egg). Rua Estação 216, 4300-171 1970s decor and panoramic city
Tel 225 370 462 Closed Sun views has a wide-ranging menu
PORTO: Solar Moinho de Vento € This family-run restaurant and wine list.
Traditional Portuguese Map C2 with a warm atmosphere is
Rua de Sá Noronha 81, 4050-527 famous for tripe dishes, but it PORTO: Restaurante
Tel 222 051 158 Closed Sun dinner also serves amazing filets de Casa da Música €€
The specialities at this restaurant polvo (octopus) and steaks. International Map C2
in an old building with wooden Superb house wine. Avenida da Boavista 604, 4149-071
beams include fish soup and Tel 220 107 160 Closed Sun
giblet rice. It has lunchtime set PORTO: Chez Lapin €€ The chef here is on a mission
menus which are not to be missed. Traditional Portuguese Map C2 to make gourmet food widely
Rua dos Canastreiros 40, 4050-149 accessible. Several show-
PORTO: Ar de Rio €€ Tel 222 006 418 and-dinner packages, as well
Cervejaria Map C2 Three dining areas, each with as a good-value tasting menu,
Avenida Diogo Leite 5, 4400-123 its unique ambience, make up are available.
Tel 223 701 797 this restaurant on the waterfront.
Enjoy great river views from the A menu highlight is the polvo PORTO: The Yeatman €€€
covered terrace at this restaurant assado no forno (roast octopus). Modern Portuguese Map C2
famous for francesinhas – Service is excellent. Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
stacked, meaty sandwiches Tel 220 133 100
covered with cheese and sauce. PORTO: Cometa €€ Housed in one of the city’s finest
International Map C2 hotels, this luxurious Michelin-
PORTO: BB Gourmet €€ Rua Tomás Gonzaga 87, 4050-607 starred restaurant offers an inspired
Modern Portuguese Map C2 Tel 916 582 608 Closed lunch; Sun gourmet menu and an expertly
Rua Fernandes Tomás 764, 4000-213 The eclectic menu at this chosen wine list. There are great
Tel 222 011 531 small, cosy restaurant features views over the historic city centre.
This award-winning restaurant dishes mostly based on the
with fashionable decor serves light, Mediterranean cuisine. Cash only. ROMEU: Maria Rita €€
refined meals prepared with the Reserve in advance. Traditonal Portuguese Map E1
freshest ingredients. Tasting menus Rua da Capela, 5370-620
are available. Reserve in advance. PORTO: Essência €€ Tel 278 939 134 Closed Sun dinner;
Vegetarian Map C2 Mon
PORTO: Café Vitória €€ Rua Pedro Hispano 1190, 4150-123 Set in a historic town house with
Modern Portuguese Map C2 Tel 228 301 813 Closed Sun a rustic air, this restaurant offers a
Rua José Falcão 156, 4050-315 Creative vegetarian food is the menu of wholesome favourites,
Tel 220 135 538 Closed Tue focus at this informal restaurant including spicy sausage soup
There are three seating areas in with stylish 1940s decor and a and feijoada à transmontana
this bright, cheerful restaurant garden terrace. (bean stew).
specializes in regional cuisine.

The menu is heavily biased
towards meat, and there is
an excellent wine list.
BRAGA: Inácio €€
Campo das Hortas 4, 4700-000
Tel 253 613 235 Closed Tue
Housed in a historic granite
building with antique decorative
touches, Inácio offers first-class
regional dishes, including
lamprey rice, veal and kid.
CAMINHA: Muralha
The plush dining room at The Yeatman, Porto (see p407) da Caminha €
Modern Portuguese Map C1
SENDIM: Gabriela €€ is known for. Finish with the Rua Barão de São Roque 69, 4910-340
Traditonal Portuguese Map E2 local cakes, charutos dos Arcos Tel 258 728 199
Largo da Igreja 27, 5225-106 (cigars of Arcos). A light, airy hotel restaurant
Tel 273 739 180 whose menu offers plenty of
Regional specialities, such as BARCELOS: A Vincentina € choice within Portuguese food,
Mirandese steak in a special Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 including fresh fish.
sauce and sopa de legumes Rua Dom António Barroso 87,
(vegetable soup) are served here. 4750-258 GUIMARÃES: El Rei
Tel 253 812 285 Dom Afonso €
TORRE DE MONCORVO: This friendly eatery is very popular Traditional Portuguese Map C2
O Artur € with the locals. The house special Praça de São Tiago 20, 4810-311
Traditonal Portuguese Map E2 is francesinha, a type of steak Tel 253 419 096 Closed Sun
Lugar de Rentão, Carviçais, sandwich with melted cheese and Named after the first king
5160-069 a spicy tomato sauce made with of Portugal, this family restaurant
Tel 279 098 000 Closed Sun dinner beer and brandy. serves regional treats such
Decorated with farming as feijoada à transmontana
equipment, this restaurant is BARCELOS: Bagoeira €€ (bean stew) and bacalhau
renowned locally for Mirandese Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 mistério (cod).
steak and cabrito (kid). Avenida Sidónio Pais 495, 4750-333
Tel 253 813 088
VILA REAL: Museu dos The set menu at this hotel DK Choice
Presuntos €€ restaurant offers a selection GUIMARÃES:
Traditonal Portuguese Map D2 of regional fare served in Cor de Tangerina €€
Avenida Cidade Ourense, 43, generous portions. Vegetarian Map C2
5000-690 Largo Martins Sarmento 89,
Tel 259 327 027 Closed Mon BRAGA: Anjo Verde € 4800-432
A restaurant offering northern Vegetarian Map C1 Tel 253 542 009 Closed Sun
Portuguese fare, such as Largo da Praça Velha 21, 4700-439 dinner; Mon
Montalegre-style veal cutlets. Tel 253 264 010 Closed Sun Spread across one floor
Presunto ham is another speciality, A modern, attractive vegetarian and the leafy gardens of
hence the restaurant’s name. restaurant. On the menu are an old town house, this
substantial main dishes and restaurant in a cultural centre
VILA REAL: Terra da several colourful side dishes, with funky furnishings and
Montanha €€ plus there is a complimentary frequent art exhibitions
Traditonal Portuguese Map D2 herbal tea on arrival. offers vegetarian daily specials
Rua 31 de Janeiro 18, 5000-603 made with fresh, locally
Tel 259 372 075 Closed Sun BRAGA: São Frutuoso € sourced organic produce. An
dinner Traditional Portuguese Map C1 extensive range of infusions
The rustic decor at this restaurant Rua Costa Gomes 168, 4700-262 and teas is available.
includes lots of wine barrels. It Tel 253 623 372 Closed Sun dinner;
offers hearty local fare and an Mon
excellent wine list. Granite and wood dominate GUIMARÃES: São Gião €€
the comfortable interior of this Traditional Portuguese Map C2
restaurant. Try the bacalhau com Avenida Comendador Joaquim de
castanhas (cod with onions and Almeida Freitas 56, Moreira de
Minho chestnuts) or bacalhau com broa Cónegos, 4815-270
(cod with corn bread). Tel 253 561 853 Closed Sun dinner;
ARCOS DE VALDEVEZ: Mon
Costa do Vez €€ BRAGA: Arcoense €€ Visit this restaurant for an
Traditonal Portuguese Map C1 Traditional Portuguese Map C1 intimate fine dining experience;
EN 121, Quinta de Silvares, 4970-483 Rua Eugenheiro José Justino de try the sopa rica de peixe (fish
Tel 258 516 122 Closed Mon Amorim 96, 4715-023 soup) or robalo grelhado com
Mountain views, grilled Tel 253 278 952 Closed Sun dinner molho de camarão (sea bass in
meats and baked cod are This bright, spacious and prawn sauce). Attentive waiters
what this attractive restaurant simply decorated restaurant help with the wine selection.
GUIMARÃES: Solar do PÓVOA DE VARZIM:

Arco €€ O Marinheiro €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C2 Modern Portuguese Map C2
Rua de Santa Maria 48–50, Rua Gomes de Amorim 1842, 4490-091
4810-443 Tel 252 682 151
Tel 253 513 072 Closed Tue A trendy, boat-shaped restaurant
This restaurant is a good place with a sleek, elegant design.
to sample some unusual The fresh seafood is the main
regional dishes, such as draw, but meat eaters are well
cataplana de tamboril, amêijoa catered for too. There is a
e camarão (monkfish, clam children’s menu.
and prawn casserole) and
feijoada de camarão (prawn VALENÇA DO MINHO: Mané €€
and bean stew). International Map C1
Avenida Miguel Dantas 5, 4930-678
PONTE DA BARCA: Tel 251 823 402 Closed Mon
O Moinho €€ The menu here offers a blend
Traditional Portuguese Map C1 of Portuguese and French
Campo do Côrro 1, 4980-614 influences. Good wine list. The elegant interior of São Teotónio
Tel 258 452 035 Closed Tue in Valença do Minho
A charming restaurant in a VALENÇA DO MINHO:
beautiful rural setting with São Teotónio €€ Portuguese cuisine in the
river views. Lamprey is the Tradtional Portuguese Map C1 country, Camelo has excellent
house speciality, when in Baluarte do Socorro, 4930-619 grilled meats and fish dishes
season, or try the veal steaks. Tel 251 800 260 and great-value lunch menus.
The establishment has a decent Enjoy lovely country views at this
wine list which includes locally elegant, spacious restaurant in a
produced wines. pousada. Try the arroz de tamboril
com camarão (monkfish with rice Alentejo
PONTE DE LIMA: and shrimp) or the cabbage soup
A Carvalheira €€ with Minho sausages. Extensive ALANDROAL: A Maria €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C1 lunch buffet served on weekends. Traditional Portuguese Map D5
Rua do Eido Velho, Fornelos, Rua João de Deus 12, 7250-142
4990-620 VIANA DO CASTELO: Tel 268 431 143 Closed Mon dinner
Tel 258 742 316 Closed Mon O Pescador €€ The house specialities at this
Dishes at this restaurant with Traditional Portuguese Map C1 charming, rustic restaurant with
rustic decor include Portuguese Largo São Domingos 35, 4900-330 blue-and-white walls include
staples such as cod with corn Tel 258 826 039 Closed Sun dinner; delicious cozido de grão à
bread and roast kid. There Mon alentejana (Alentejan-style
is a good wine list with plenty Lamprey is a particular seasonal chickpea and meat stew).
of vinhos verdes. favourite at this restaurant, with
its emphasis on fish and
PONTE DE LIMA: A Tulha €€ seafood. Another speciliality is DK Choice
Traditional Portuguese Map C1 the combinado de mariscos ALBERNÔA: Herdade dos
Rua Formosa 4, 4990-117 (seafood platter). Grous €€€
Tel 258 942 879 Closed Sun dinner, Modern Portuguese Map D6
Mon VIANA DO CASTELO: Herdade dos Grous, 7800-601
This family-friendly restaurant Camelo €€€ Tel 284 960 000 Closed Mon–
uses fresh local produce for Traditional Portuguese Map C1 Thu dinner
its weekly changing menu. Santa Marta de Portuzelo, 4925-090 This restaurant is housed in a
Must-try delicacies include Tel 258 839 090 Closed Mon magnificent blue-and-white
bacalhau, veal steak and the Reputed to be one of the best building on a beautiful
orange pudding. restaurants serving traditional country estate. Furnished in
warm colours and natural
textures, it has a distinct
countrified air. Many of the
ingredients for the gourmet
menu come from the estate
itself, including the wine. Try
the hare rice with Herdade
dos Grous red wine.
ALVITO: Castelo de Alvito €

Castelo de Alvito, 7920-999
Tel 284 480 700
The vaulted ceilings of this
restaurant, housed in a 15th-
century castle, add to the sense
of history and grandeur. The
food is top-notch and the
The leafy garden at Cor de Tangerina, Guimarães (see p408) service is excellent.
BEJA: Adega 25 de Abril € ESTREMOZ: Gadanha MARVÃO: Sever €

Traditional Portuguese Map D6 Mercearia € Traditional Portuguese Map D4
Rua da Moeda 23, 7800-000 Traditional Portuguese Map D5 Estrada Rio do Sever, Portagem,
Tel 284 325 960 Closed Sun dinner; Largo Dragões de Olivença 84A, 7330-347
Mon 7100-457 Tel 245 993 318
Brick walls and giant terracotta Tel 268 333 262 Closed Mon A pretty restaurant with a leafy
urns create a rustic backdrop for Brazilian chef Michele Marques esplanade overlooking the
typical Alentejan fare, including heads a kitchen that has River Sever. The menu offers
splendid sopa de cação (dogfish received much acclaim for its carefully prepared and
soup). For dessert, try the sericaia imaginative take on traditional presented regional cuisine, with
(an incredibly light sponge cake). Portuguese fare, creatively re- plenty of game and local
inventing regional recipes. The produce. Try the chestnut soup
BEJA: Espelho d’Água € restaurant is also a one-stop or venison stew.
Traditional Portuguese Map D6 grocery store.
Rua de Lisboa, Parque da Cidade, MÉRTOLA: Tamuje €€
7800-292 ÉVORA: Botequim Traditional Portuguese Map D6
Tel 284 325 103 Closed Mon da Mouraria €€ Rua Doutor Serrão Martins 36,
Beef and pineapple kebabs and Traditional Portuguese Map D5 7750-355
carne de porco à alentejana (pork Rua da Mouraria 16A 7000-585 Tel 286 611 115 Closed Sun, first
and clams) are menu highlights Tel 266 746 775 Closed Sat dinner; week in Sep
at this modern restaurant with Sun This small family-run restaurant,
bright colours and park views. Perch on a stool at the bar named after the river it overlooks,
and tuck into fine home-cooked serves beautifully presented
CRATO: Flor da Rosa €€€ Alentejan food at this tiny regional cuisine and good
Traditional Portuguese Map D4 eatery. Arrive early or expect organic house wine.
Mosteiro da Flor da Rosa, 7430-099 to wait.
Tel 245 997 210 MONSARAZ: O Alcaide €
Featuring stylish decor in neutral ÉVORA: Fialho €€ Traditional Portuguese Map D5
tones, Flor da Rosa has a menu Traditional Portuguese Map D5 Rua do Convento, 7200-173
that favours regional cuisine. Travessa das Mascarenhas 16, Tel 266 557 168 Closed Thu
Local wines are well represented. 7000-557 The tempting menu of
There are lovely garden views. Tel 266 703 079 Closed Mon regional dishes at this attractive
A historic, award-winning restaurant, decorated
ELVAS: Pompílio €€ restaurant offering inventive with farming tools and
Traditional Portuguese Map D5 cuisine – try the excellent ceramics, is meat-heavy.
Rua de Elvas 96, São Vicente, 7350-481 dogfish in coriander sauce. There is an impressive wine
Tel 268 611 133 Closed Tue There is a good wine list. Book list. Book ahead.
The friendly staff will help you in advance.
select from the excellent regional MONTEMOR-O-NOVO: L’And
and extended game menu. Try ÉVORA: Tasquinha Vineyards €€€
the arroz de lebre (hare rice). do Oliveira €€ Modern Mediterranean Map C5
Traditional Portuguese Map D5 Herdade das Valadas,
ESTREMOZ: Adega Típico Rua Cândido dos Reis 45A, 7000-582 7050-031
do Isaías € Tel 266 744 841 Closed Sun; Tel 266 242 400 Closed Mon, Tue
Traditional Portuguese Map D5 early Aug Using premier grade ingredients,
Rua do Almeida 21, 7100-537 Imaginative regional cuisine, chef Miguel Laffan creates
Tel 268 322 318 Closed Sun dinner including game dishes in dishes of regionally focused
This restaurant used to be a wine season, is served at this cuisine suffused with distinct
cellar, and it still produces its own restaurant, said to be one of flavours at this striking eatery.
house wine. Clay urns line the the best in Portugal. The dining His contemporary style and
walls, and the menu features area is adorned with decorative attention to detail has garnered
tasty and wholesome home- plates. Tasquinha do Oliveira the establishment a much
cooked regional dishes. has a good wine list. deserved Michelin star.
The chic bar area at Flor da Rosa, housed in a former monastery in Crato
Algarve
ALBUFEIRA: Adega do Zé €
Torre da Medronheira, Estrada dos
Olhos d’Água, 8200-635
Tel 289 501 617 Closed Sun
Dishes like Arroz de polvo (octopus
rice) and espetadas de tamboril
(monkfish kebab) feature on the
menu at this lively eatery. A long
established institution, it is run by
a much-admired local couple.
ALBUFEIRA: Evaristo €€€

Seafood Map C7
Praia do Evaristo, 8200-903
Tel 289 591 666
Backed by gardens and
overlooking the beach, this
The beautiful dining room at Redondo’s Convento de São Paulo bright, spacious restaurant is
ideal for grilled fish and seafood.
PORTALEGRE: Solar do SERPA: Adega Molhóbico €€
Forcado € Traditional Portuguese Map D6 ALMANCIL: Gourmet Natural €€
Modern Portuguese Map D4 Rua Quente 1, 7830-000 Uruguayan Map D7
Rua Cândido dos Reis 14, Tel 284 549 264 Closed Wed; 24 Jun– Estrada Vale do Lobo, 8135-018
7300-129 10 Jul Tel 289 355 271
Tel 245 330 866 Closed Sat lunch; The pastoral decor in this popular Housed in a beautiful 18th-
Sun restaurant is enhanced with century farmhouse, this
Imaginative versions of regional paintings by local artists. The restaurant is famous for its top-
recipes are accompanied by dishes are served in generous quality Uruguayan steaks and
good Alentejan wines. The decor portions and are excellent value. dishes such as prawn ceviche.
makes it evident that the owner The wine list favours the region.
is a bullfighting fan. ALMANCIL: A Quinta €€€
TERRUGEM: A Bolota €€ International Map D7
PORTALEGRE: Modern Portuguese Map B5 Rua Vale Formoso, 8100-267
Tombalobos €€ Rua Madre Teresa, 7350-491 Tel 289 393 357 Closed lunch; Sun
Traditional Portuguese Map D4 Tel 268 656 118 Closed Mon, Tue; This warm, elegant restaurant
Bairro da Pedra Basta 16, early Aug offers fine dining in a romantic
7300-529 Serving inspired gourmet cuisine, setting. The comprehensive
Tel 245 906 111 Closed Sun dinner, the tasting menu at this menu is based on the freshest
Mon celebrated restaurant includes seasonal ingredients available.
Chef José Júlio Vintém, a native such delights as partridge stuffed
of Portalegre, celebrates local with mushrooms and chestnuts. ALVOR: Ruccala €€
cuisine with a creative menu of International Map C7
delicious cuisine. Expect VILA DE FRADES: Rua Poeta João de Deus, 8500-000
favourites like açorda (see p294). País das Uvas € Tel 965 839 902 Closed lunch, Sun
Traditional Portuguese Map D6 Enjoy a lively atmosphere and
REDONDO: Convento de Rua General Humburto Delgado 19, harbour views from the terrace
São Paulo €€ 7960-446 while tucking into lamb shank,
Traditional Portuguese Map D5 Tel 284 441 023 Closed Wed steak or sea bass. Book ahead.
Aldeia da Serra, 7170-120 The menu here celebrates
Tel 266 989 160 traditional Portuguese ARMAÇÃO DE PÊRA: L’Oasis €
Azulejo panels line this dining gastronomy, with plenty of bias Italian Map C7
room beneath an arched, towards hearty Alentejan fare. Rua Dom João II, Lj1 r/c,
painted ceiling. The menu The rustic interior is lined with Edificio Atlântico IV, 8365-130
matches the elegant and refined massive amphorae or wine Tel 282 312 869 Closed Tue, Oct–Jun
setting and uses top-quality pots – talhas. This is where vinho Expect a warm welcome and
ingredients from the estate. da talha house wine, produced high-quality dishes, such as
exactly the way Romans made creative pizzas and home-made
SANTIAGO DO CACÉM: wine, is stored. pastas, at this cosy restaurant.
A Deolinda €
Traditional Portuguese Map C6 VILA NOVA DE MILFONTES: CARVOEIRO: Boneca Bar €
Monte Cruz de Alcaide, Marisqueira Dunas Mil €€ Seafood Map C7
7540-237 Seafood Map C6 Sitio do Algo Seco, 8401-909
Tel 269 822 732 Closed Mon Avenida Marginal, 7645-000 Tel 282 358 391
This warm and unpretentious Tel 283 996 420 Tucked away among rocks
eatery is popular with a local Freshly caught fish and seafood and caves above the beach, this
clientele for its hearty game make it to the dish of the day or family- run restaurant serves
dishes such as perdíz à casa straight to the grill at this popular great seafood and cocktails. Try
(partridge), along with other restaurant overlooking the ocean. the tiger prawns or the catch
regional classics. Good wines. of the day.

atmosphere of the arched

ceilings and stone walls of this
17thcentury building.
MEXILHOEIRA GRANDE:
Adega Vilalisa €€
Rua Francisco Bivar 52, 8500-132
Tel 282 968 478 Closed lunch
Wonderfully understated,
and with shared tables, this
simple eatery offers a great
tasting menu with wines.
Reservations recommended.
ODIAXERE: Cacto €€
International Map C7
Estrada Nacional 125, 8600-250
Selection of wine bottles lining the walls at Veneza, in Paderne Tel 282 798 285 Closed lunch, Thu,
Wed
CARVOEIRO: Bon Bon €€€ include cataplana de peixe (fish Delicious slowroasted lamb
International Map C7 casserole) and açorda de marisco with garlic and herbs is a menu
Urb. Cabeço de Pais, Sesmarias 8400- (seafood and bread stew). highlight here. Book ahead.
525
Tel 282 341 496 Closed lunch, Wed & FARO: O Estaminé €€ OLHÃO: Horta €€
Nov–Feb Seafood Map D7 Traditional Portuguese Map D7
The unassuming location of this Ilha Deserta, 8000-138 Avenida 5 de Outubro 148, 8700-304
Michelin star restaurant is Tel 917 811 856 Closed dinner Tel 289 714 215 Closed Sat
misleading. Master chef Rui Take a water taxi to get to this Friendly, nofrills service and huge
Silvestre delivers highly crafted island restaurant. The trip is well portions make this restaurant a
and wonderfully presented worth the effort for the views, favourite with locals. Staples
modern cuisine. the lovely wooden building include monkfish rice and juicy
and the ultrafresh seafood. picanha (beef ) kebab.
CASTRO MARIM: A Tasca
Medieval € FERRAGUDO: Sueste €€ PADERNE: Veneza €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C7 Traditional Portuguese / Traditional Portuguese Map C7
Rua 25 de Abril 65, 8950-122 Seafood Map C7 Paderne Albufeira, 8200-488
Tel 281 513 196 Closed Tue Rua Infante Santo 91, 8400-256 Tel 289 367 129 Closed Tue & Wed
The house speciality at this con Tel 282 461 592 Closed Sun & Jan lunch; 2 weeks in spring & autumn
venient place is açorda de galhina There are great views over the The bottles lining the walls here
(breadbased chicken stew). Be estuary at this quayside eatery reflect the vast wine list, with over
sure to leave room for one of the specializing in charcoalgrilled 800 options. There is an impressive
sweet almond desserts. fish. Expect polished service and menu of homecooked dishes.
an excellent wine list.
ESTÔMBAR: O Charneco €€
Traditional Portuguese Map C7 LAGOS: No Pátio €€ DK Choice
Rua Joaquim Manuel Charneco 3, International Map C7 PRAIA DA GALÉ: Vila Joya €€€
8400-037 Rua Lançarote de Freitas 46, 8600-605 International Map C7
Tel 282 431 113 Closed lunch, Sun & Tel 282 763 777 Closed Sun & Mon Estrada da Galé, 8200-416
Jan Run by a British couple, this Tel 289 591 795 Closed Dates
Come here for authentic, award charming restaurant with a vary
winning Algarvean cooking, garden terrace serves perfectly One of Portugal’s finest
including delights such as pernil cooked cuisine. The menu restaurants, Vila Joya boasts
no forno (ovenbaked ham) and changes monthly to incorporate two Michelin stars. With a
borrego guisado com feijão verde fresh seasonal produce. wine cellar of 12,000 optimally
(lamb fricassée with green beans). stored bottles, the perfect
LAGOS: Vista Alegre €€ wine pairing with the gourmet
FARO: A Taska € French Map C7 cuisine is guaranteed. Advance
Traditional Portuguese Map D7 Rua Ilha Terceira 19B, 8600-969 reservations are essential,
Rua do Alportel 38, 8000-239 Tel 282 792 151 Closed Mon especially for nonhotel guests.
Tel 969 441 381 Closed Sun Bookings are essential at this
The xarém (thick cornmeal 20seat French bistro. Service
soup with clams or bacon) is a can be a little slow, but the PRAIA DA ROCHA: Vista €€€
speciality at this typical, rustic fare is worth waiting for. Try Traditional Portuguese Map C7
restaurant. Look out for the dish the quail salad or duck in Av Tomas Cabreira, 8500-802
of the day or the tasting menu. honey sauce. Tel 282 460 280
Headed by young Portuguese
FARO: Dois Irmãos €€ LOULÉ: Bica Velha €€ chef João Oliveira, this is the
Portuguese/International Map D7 Traditional Portuguese Map D7 inhouse restaurant of Bela
Praça Ferreira de Almeida 15, 8000-156 Rua Martin Moniz 17–19, 8100-000 Vista Hotel & Spa.Vista offers
Tel 289 823 337 Tel 289 463 376 Closed lunch two superb tasting menus,
The accent here is on classic The food is complemented and the maître’d’ will suggest
Algarvean cuisine. Specialities by the intimate and rustic wine pairings.
QUINTA DO LAGO: TAVIRA: Brisa do Rio €€ CÂMARA DE LOBOS:

2 Passos €€ Traditional Portuguese Map D7 Adega da Quinta €€
International Map D7 Rua João Vaz Corte Real 38, Traditional Portuguese
Praia do Ancão, 8135-905 8800-351 Quinta do Estreito, Rua José Joaquim
Tel 289 396 435 Closed dinner (Sep– Tel 915 434 452 Closed lunch, Wed da Costa, 9325-039
Jun); Dec–Jan Exuding genuine warmth and Tel 291 910 530
Tuck into lagosta no pote (lobster hospitality, this is one of Tavira’s This lovely restaurant with
in the pot) or T-bone steak at this culinary landmarks. The menu garden and ocean views has a
informal, friendly beachside errs towards fresh fish and rustic interior featuring beamed
restaurant with ocean views. seafood, though dishes like the ceilings. It serves fine regional
rack of lamb are equally cuisine and the wine cellar is
QUINTA DO LAGO: appetizing. Book ahead. stocked with vintage Madeiras.
Casa Velha €€€
French Map D7 VILAMOURA: Oliveira FUNCHAL: O Tapassol €
Rotunda 6, Quinta do Lago, 8135-024 Dourada €€ Traditional Portuguese
Tel 289 394 983 Closed Sun, mid- International Map D7 Rua Dom Carlos I, 62, 9050-041
Dec–Feb;lunch daily Rua do Mar 135T, 8125-039 Tel 291 225 023
A charming restaurant decorated Tel 913 588 099 Closed Mon Reserve a table on the upstairs
with colourful paintings and A homely, relaxed restaurant. terrace of this restaurant for
sculptures. The rustic interior of The eclectic menu, influenced lovely city views. There are typical
the converted old farmhouse by countries such as India, Madeiran dishes as well as many
features an open fireplace, and Mexico, America and Greece, other options.
there is also a pretty, flower-filled caters for almost every taste.
terrace. The dishes are made with
fresh Mediterranean produce. VILAMOURA: Pepper’s DK Choice
Steakhouse €€€ FUNCHAL: Armazem
SAGRES: Pousada Steakhouse Map D7 do Sal €€
de Sagres €€ Tivoli Marina Vilamoura 8125-401 Modern Portuguese
Modern Portuguese Map C7 Tel 289 303 303 Closed lunch Rua da Alfândega 135, 9000-000
Ponta da Atalaia, 8650-385 A sophisticated restaurant Tel 291 241 285 Closed Sat
Tel 282 620 240 situated in the Tivoli Marina hotel. lunch; Sun
This understated restaurant The menu features impressive The stone walls and thick wooden
serves regional dishes with a steaks as well as plenty of other beams of this sophisticated
twist, including rack of lamb options. There is a superb wine restaurant are offset with stylish
in muscatel wine and sardines list. Book ahead. furnishings. The haute cuisine, a
stuffed with tomatoes and blend of regional and inter-
herbs. Book ahead. national recipes, is on a par with
Michelin standards. An equally
SAGRES: O Telheiro Madeira impressive wine list features
do Infante €€ staff choices and vintage labels.
Seafood Map C7 CAMACHA: Abrigo do Pastor €€
Praia da Mareta, 8650-361 Regional Portuguese
Tel 282 624 179 Closed dinner, Tue Estrada das Carreiras 209, FUNCHAL: Barqueiro €€
Order the catch of the day, 9135-350 Seafood
which will arrive grilled to Tel 291 922 060 Closed Tue, 25 Dec Centro Commercial Centromar Loja
your specification, or try Enjoy dishes like succulent 21, 9000-113
house specialities such as mixed grills, oven-roast octopus Tel 291 765 226
lobster rice at this restaurant or weekend treats like favada de Enjoy some of the city’s best
with impressive ocean views. javali (wild boar and bean stew) seafood, including lapas (limpets)
at this suitably rustic and and ovas de espada (swordfish roe),
SILVES: Marisqueira homely eatery. in a relaxed, informal ambience.
Rui €€
Seafood Map C7
Rua Comendador Vilarinho 27,
8300-128
Tel 282 442 682 Closed Wed, Nov
A lively, informal restaurant,
Marisqueira Rui is popular with
locals. Try the sapateria (crab)
or the mixed seafood platter.
There is an extensive wine list.
TAVIRA: A Ver Tavira €€

Calçada da Galeria 13, 8800-303
Tel 281 381 363
Award-winning chef Samuel Silva
serves gourmet fusion cuisine in
this special setting with river
views. The tasting menu pairs
dishes with appropriate wines.
There are frequent live fado and
jazz evenings. The dining room of the Pousada do Sagres, Sagres

FUNCHAL: O Celeiro €€
Seafood
Rua Aranhas 22, 9000-044
One of the oldest restaurants in
the region, O Celeiro is furnished
with dark wood and azulejo tiles.
The reasonably priced menu is
dominated by fish and seafood.
FUNCHAL: O Jango €€
Traditional Portuguese
Rua de Santa Maria 166,
9060-291
Tel 291 221 280
Dishes are carefully prepared
and presented at this restaurant
with an African-themed decor Riso in Funchal, which specializes in risotto dishes
and a varied menu. Try the
house steak or gambas à Sinthon surprises with his RIBEIRA BRAVA: Fajã
Indiana (prawns). creativity, using regional dos Padres €€
produce whenever possible. Seafood
FUNCHAL: Riso €€ The wine list is extensive and Estrada Padre António Dinis
International features local as well as Henriques I, 9300-261
Rua de Santa Maria 274, 9050-040 international labels. Tel 291 944 538 Closed dinner
Tel 291 280 360 Closed Mon Reached by cable car, this
The menu here is devoted to rice. FUNCHAL: Ristorante restaurant, offering a vast
In addition to paella, there are Villa Cipriani €€€ selection of fresh seafood and
all kinds of imaginative risottos Italian regional dishes, can accommodate
and other rice-based dishes. Estrada Monumental 139, dinner bookings for large
The views of the ocean are 9000-098 groups and visits to the
spectacular too. Tel 291 717 171 Closed lunch vineyards by appointment.
The checked tablecloths lend an
FUNCHAL: Dona Amélia €€€ informal air to this gourmet SANTANA: Cantinho
International Italian restaurant. Sweeping da Serra €€
Rua Imperatriz Dona Amélia 83, ocean views from the terrace Traditional Portuguese
9000-018 add to the dining experience. Estrada do Pico das Pedras,
Tel 291 225 784 9230-107
A pretty restaurant overlooking FUNCHAL: Uva €€€ Tel 291 573 727
tiled rooftops. Dishes such as International Warm colours and a huge
gnocchi with lobster and tuna Rua dos Aranhas 27A, 9000-044 fireplace give this restaurant a
steak with fettuccini grace the Tel 291 009 000 cosy, welcoming atmosphere.
menu, along with flambéed pork Within the Vine Hotel, this Hearty regional dishes and
and fish. Book ahead. contemporary dining spot interesting home-made liqueurs
serves delicious gourmet fare. are on the menu.
FUNCHAL: Il Gallo d’Oro €€€ The rooftop views are splendid.
Modern Portuguese SANTANA: Quinta do Furão €€
Cliff Bay Hotel, Estrada Monumental PORTO SANTO: Hotel Quinta International
147, 9004-532 do Serrado €€ Achada do Gramacho, 9230-082
Tel 291 707 700 Traditional Portuguese Tel 291 570 100
Two Michelin stars shine Sítío do Pedregal, 9400-010 The high-ceilinged dining area
above this acclaimed gourmet Tel 291 980 270 features two huge fireplaces,
restaurant. French chef Benoît The restaurant at Hotel while the sheltered terrace offers
Quinta do Serrado specializes stunning views. Organic and
in traditional Portuguese local produce is used almost
dishes with a local Algarvean exclusively. Vegetarian options
twist. Try the pudim de are available.
maracujá (passion fruit
pudding) for dessert.
PORTO SANTO: Ponta da The Azores

Calheta €€
Seafood CORVO: Traineira €
Sítío de Calheta, Calheta, Traditional Portuguese
9400-001 Rua Matriz, 9980-020
Tel 291 985 322 Closed Jan & Feb Tel 292 596 088 Closed Sun
This is a great place to watch The dishes offered at this
the sun set and enjoy simple restaurant vary
incredibly fresh fish and sea- according to what is available.
food dishes, such as bean and Starters usually include
prawn stew. For an entirely enchidos (sausages) and queijo
The modern interior of Uva in Funchal, relaxed evening ,call to arrange da ilha (local cheese). Servings
with ocean views a hotel pick-up. are substantial.
Key to key to prices see page 398
FAIAL: Medalhas € Portuguese cuisine replete with

Traditional Portuguese an excellent wine choice
Rua Serpa Pinto 22, Horta, 9900-095 complements the chic décor.
This restaurant retains its SÃO JORGE: Fornos da Lava €€
original taberna atmosphere and Traditional Portuguese
is equally popular for snacks Travessa de São Tiago 46, 9800-347
and full meals. The menu varies Santo Amaro, Velas
depending on availability Tel 295 432 415Closed 22 Dec–1 Jan
but includes both meat and The vegetables and herbs used
fish dishes. in dishes such as sea bass with
avocado are grown in the garden
FAIAL: Sal & Pico €€ of this charming, rustic eatery. The
Modern Portuguese kitchen uses wood-fired ovens to
Rua Vasco da Gama, Horta, 9900-017 bake delicious bread.There are
Tel 292 202 200 Closed Dec & Jan wonderful views across Velas.
Set in the historic Pousada Forte
da Horta overlooking Horta Bay, SÃO MIGUEL: Monte Verde €
this pleasant restaurant is one of Seafood
the best on Faial Island. House Sal & Pico restaurant, in a historic pousada Rua da Areia 4, Ribeira Grande, 9600-000
specialities include fried pork in Faial Tel 296 472 975 Closed Mon
with pineapple and roast tuna. Choose fish from the display
PICO: Cella Bar €€ counter and have it grilled or fried
FLORES: Sereia € Modern Regional to perfection. The house speciality
Seafood Lugar da Barca, 9950-303 is tigelada de chicharro, a stew
Rua Doutor Armas da Silveira 30, Tel 292 623 654 Closed Hours vary made with thin, sardine-like fish.
Santa Cruz das Flores, 9970-331 Located just outside Madalena,
Tel 292 592 220 Closed Sun this chic bistro wine bar- SÃO MIGUEL: Alcides €€
This small, friendly restaurant has restaurant has won awards for its Traditional Portuguese
been popular with locals and striking architectural design. Rua Hintze Ribeiro 67–77,
visitors for many years. Try the Seafood is the speciality (try the Ponta Delgada, 9504-000
catch of the day or the caldeirada roasted octopus). Tel 296 629 884 Closed Sun
de peixe (fish and potato casserole). This unpretentious restaurant is
PICO: Fonte Cuisine €€ renowned for its steaks, especially
GRACIOSA: Quinta das Grotas €€ International the house speciality, bife à Alcides.
Traditional Portuguese Caminho de Baixo, Lajes do Pico, The stylish interior features brightly
Caminho das Grotas 28, Ribeirinha 9930-177 painted walls and stone arches.
9880-020 Tel 292 679 504
Tel 295 712 334 Closed Mon (winter) Both vegetarians and meat eaters SÃO MIGUEL: O Miroma €€
Set in a beautiful stone-clad will find good options at this Tradtional Portuguese
farmhouse in the middle of the hotel restaurant. Regular buffets Rua Dr Frederico Moniz Pereira 15,
countryside, the hearty rustic fare feature Portuguese and Furnas 9675-055
served here is enhanced in international dishes as well as Tel 296 584 422
winter by a roaring log fire. Azorean fare. Some of the house specialities
here are baked underground,
PICO: Ancoradouro €€ SANTA MARIA: Mesa d’Oito € using heat generated by the
Traditional Portuguese Modern Portuguese volcanic springs. This is what
Areia Larga, Madalena, 9950-302 Rua Teófilo de Braga 31, Vila do Porto makes the unique cozido (stew)
Tel 292 623 490 Closed Mon 9580-535 so delicious and popular.
A modest restaurant with an Tel 296 882 107
attractive veranda and glorious Setting new culinary standards is TERCEIRA: Quinta do
views of Faial Island. The morcela this stylish eatery, the in-house Martelo €
com laranja (black pudding with restaurant of the Charming Blue Traditional Portuguese
orange) is delicious. Hotel. A menu of contemporary Canada do Martelo 24, Cantinho,
São Mateus, 9700-576
Tel 295 642 842 Closed Wed
A quaint, rural restaurant that
serves authentic Azorean dishes
such as alcatra (meat stew)
and Sopa do Espírito Santo, a
soup of meat and vegetables in
white wine.
TERCEIRA: O Pescador €€
Traditional Portuguese
Avenida Beira Mar, Bloco C, Praia da
Vitória, 9760-441
This popular restaurant exudes a
friendly and informal ambience
and is renowned for its delicious
grilled swordfish with sautéed
The well-stocked bar area at Fonte Cuisine, Pico vegetables. Book ahead.
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL
Portugal offers a wealth of tempting goods brands onto the market. Fortunately,
at reasonable prices for shoppers. The best traditional arts and crafts have not been lost
buys include handmade leather goods and as a result of this modernization. Pottery and
shoes, handcrafted gold and silver jewellery, ceramics, embroidery and lace, woodcarving
fine porcelain and crystal, glassware, and and cork, copper artifacts, tapestries, carpets
high-quality clothes from hand-knitted and fresh produce are of a high standard.
sweaters to the latest fashion garments and The regional tourism office shops are some
designer labels. The appearance of shopping of the best places to buy genuine Portuguese
malls has brought a range of recognised handicrafts and souvenirs.
boasts nearly 400 stores.

Opened in 1997, it is the Iberian
Peninsula’s largest shopping
mall. It also houses a leisure
complex, multiplex cinema,
health club, driving range,
chapel and bowling alley.
Markets
A social and commercial
occasion, the street market is
integral to Portuguese life. It
is usually held in the town’s main
square; ask for the mercado or
feira if in doubt. Most markets
Lisbon’s enormous Centro Colombo shopping mall sell a wide range of goods from
food to household items and
Opening Hours ‘tax free’ sign outside. Ask the clothes, but you will also see
Normal shopping hours are shop assistant for an Isencão sites devoted to antiques and
9am–1pm and 3–7pm Monday na Exportação form, which local crafts. Roadside stalls offer
to Friday and 9 or 10am–1pm must be presented to a customs produce from smallholdings,
on Saturdays. However, many official on your departure from including delicious home-
shops in the bigger towns and Portugal. For more details made liqueurs, pastries and
cities remain open during the consult Global Blue. cakes. Most markets are held
lunch hour and on Saturday in the mornings only, but in
afternoons. The big shopping tourist areas they may go on
centres are open every day, How to Pay until late afternoon.
including Sundays, from 10am Most shops accept credit and
to 11pm or midnight. debit cards, though you may
need to pay with cash in some
of the smaller shops outside
Tax-Free Goods the big cities. You may be
On most goods a 23 per cent asked to show a passport
value-added tax (IVA – Imposto when purchasing expensive
sobre o Valor Acrescentado) is items by credit card.
charged in mainland Portugal. In Under EU regulations on
Madeira the tax is 22 per cent and consumer goods, you have
in the Azores it’s 18 per cent. a two-year guarantee on
Portugal has more than 1,600 products. Faulty goods must
shops affiliated with the “Tax be returned with the original
Free for Tourists System’” which receipt for exchange or repair.
can be identified by the logo of
that name. Non-European Union
visitors are exempt from IVA, pro- Shopping Malls
vided that they stay in Portugal Springing up in ever increasing
no longer than 180 days. numbers, large shopping malls
Obtaining a rebate in smaller have exerted a big influence on
shops may be complicated; it is shopping habits in Portugal. Ceramics for sale at the open-air market
simpler to buy in a shop with a Lisbon’s huge Centro Colombo in Barcelos
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL  417
rich ornaments and variety.

The Minho is famous for its
filigree gold and silver work,
from traditional necklaces,
heart-shaped pendants,
earrings and rings to religious
votives and trinkets.
Also unique to the Minho is
the ancient floral art of palmito,
a type of bouquet made with
metallic coloured paper by
young girls and women for
religious ceremonies and as
souvenirs. These are available in
Colourful handmade ceramics from the Alentejo region the workshops on the Alto
Minho Handicrafts Route.
Portugal’s most famous market renowned for its regional Arraiolos in the Alentejo
is the one in Barcelos (see p279), pottery, especially figures has been famous since the
held Thursday in the main based on everyday rustic life late 16th century for its hand-
square. Here you can buy a vast and religious themes. The embroidered carpets, which
range of household goods and best can be seen in the local are sewn in wool on a canvas
local produce, and handicrafts museum and Centro de frame. Originally, they followed
such as pottery, lace, rugs Artesanato in the city, and traditional Persian and Indian
and clothes. finely made replicas are designs, but from the 18th
Lisbon’s Feira da on sale in shops and century, more modern designs
Ladra (Thieves’ markets. The village of São became popular. Fine examples
Market) (see p75) is Pedro do Corval in the are on sale in many shops in
probably the best- Alentejo region is known the town, especially at Tapetes
known flea market and for its colourful hand- de Arraiolos, and elsewhere
attracts large crowds. painted plates and pots in Portugal.
The Feira de Antigui depicting flower motifs The Alentejo is also the
dades at Estação or rural scenes, such as best region for buying
Oriente in the city is the harvest or the pig- handmade rugs and bed-
another good hunting slaughter. Porches spreads in brightly coloured
ground, and the Feira de Pottery in the Algarve is materials. In the town of
Carcavelos, Feira famous for its plates Estremoz you will find the
de Cascais and Feira A traditional clay and pots decorated unique traditional clay figures
de São Pedro in Sintra boneco (doll) with revivalist designs known as bonecos (dolls). The
attract bargain hunters of ancient Iberian making of these gaily painted
by the thousands. forms and motifs. pieces depicting religious and
rustic themes dates back more
than two centuries.
Ceramics Handicrafts
Antique hand-painted glazed Portugal is well known for its
tiles (azulejos) are highly delicate embroidery and fine
sought after and expensive lace, and the best-known
(see p419), but excellent repro- source is the island of Madeira.
ductions are available in On the mainland, the best lace
museum shops such as Lisbon’s and embroidery comes from
Museu Nacional do Azulejos towns in the Minho such as
(see pp124–5). Azulejos Sant’ Viana do Castelo, also famous
Anna also produces excellent for its brightly printed shawls.
replicas of early tiles. Portugal’s Embroidered bedspreads are
oldest established ceramics sold in Castelo Branco in the
company is Vista Alegre Beira Baixa, and colourful
Atlantis, which produces high- carpets, such as those from
quality porcelain. Arraiolos, are sold throughout
If you are visiting Viseu (see the Alentejo.
p219), look out for the beautiful Popular regional items are
black earthenware pottery embroidered lovers’ handker-
made by a handful of master chiefs (lenços dos namorados)
potters. Viseu is one of the last in the Minho region and the
few places where ceramics of typical local costume which is Ornately embroidered clothing from Viana
this type are made. Barcelos is notable for its brilliant colours, do Castelo in the Minho
traditional home-made remedy

for coughs and influenza,
but now produced commer-
cially and much loved by
the Portuguese.
Clothing and Shoes

Portugal has a thriving textile
industry, despite fierce compe-
tition from China and India,
though much of the country’s
production in clothes and shoes
goes to supply well-known
designer brands abroad. With
the advent of large clothing
Preparing to sample the wine at a stall in the Minho region stores and shopping malls,
however, there is no shortage
Wine and Spirits European countries, and include of quality designer clothes. The
While it may be best known for the whole range, from young Portuguese brand Parfois has
fortified wines such as port and green wines (vinho verdes) a network of over 550 stores.
Madeira, Portugal also has a through popular rosés, fruity Some excellent-value seconds
wide and varied range of whites and robust reds to are on sale at local markets
excellent table wines (see pp32– Madeira wine and ports. It is everywhere; a particularly well-
3), which are well represented in often cheaper to shop direct known one is at Carcavelos
shops, supermarkets and wine from the winemaking between Lisbon and Estoril.
merchants. Some of the most co-operatives. Shoemaking is a vital part of
characterful wines, particularly Home distilling is also a Portugal’s economy. Hundreds
reds, are made in the Douro favourite pastime in Portugal. of factories produce a range
region, where port is also made. Apart from distilled wine of different styles of shoes and
More approachable reds (and (aguardente) and a spirit made sandals, which are exported all
increasingly, whites) are made in from grape skins (bagaço), over the world. They also make
the Alentejo, whose wines are various liqueurs are made with good souvenirs.
much loved by the Portuguese cherries (gingjinha), almonds Leather goods, such as bags,
themselves. Wines are widely (amêndoa) and figs (figo). purses, wallets, gloves and
available, but for a good A speciality in the Algarve belts, are consistently good.
selection try Garrafeira is medronho, a local firewater Variations in price reflect the
Nacional in Baixa, or the Coisas made from the fruit of the quality of the products.
do Arco do Vinho or Solar do wild strawberry tree. Another
Vinho do Porto in Lisbon. Algarve regional product is
The wines in Portugal are brandymel, a mixture of honey,
inexpensive compared to other herbs and medronho – once a
Size Chart
Women’s dresses, coats and skirts
Portuguese 34 36 38 40 42 44 46
British 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
American 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Women’s shoes
Portuguese 36 37 38 39 40 41
British 3 4 5 6 7 8
American 5 6 7 8 9 10
Men’s suits
Portuguese 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 (size) Quality leather boots from Madeira
British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches) – a popular gift
American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 (inches)
Men’s shirts Ornately embroidered
Portuguese 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45 (size)
women’s linen blouses,
British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches)
American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18 (inches) fashioned in the regional
style, are available in many
Men’s shoes
Portuguese 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 craft shops. Prices are also
British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12 reasonable for knitwear and
American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½ woollen fishermen’s sweaters
from Nazaré (see p186).
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL  419
Antiques medieval times, now attract region where they are made,
Whether you are a connoisseur buyers from all over the world. though most of the better-
or casual collector, Portugal’s The best hunting grounds in known regional produce can
antique shops and markets are Lisbon are in the Rua São Bento, be found throughout the
bound to have something to Largo de S Martinho, Rua country. Cured ham
catch your eye. Antique markets Augusto Rosa, and (presunto) from the
(feiras de velharias) take place Rua D Pedro V. north of Portugal
in many regions, usually on Antique Tiles is particularly
Saturday or Sunday. has great tiles, good in Chaves
There is a steady demand and Arca de (see pp262–3).
for rare and unusual antiques, São José is good Monchique (see
especially those connected for antiques. pp324–5) in the
with Portugal’s trading links Algarve also has a
with the Orient over past cen- Serra cheese from the reputation for cured
turies: Japanese lacquer work Regional Serra da Estrela ham. Spicy pork
and mother of pearl, carvings Produce sausages (linguiça)
in wood and ivory, and religious Every region in Portugal offers are a speciality of Porto. The
icons. Hand-painted tiles, its own specialities and it is Minho region is known for its
introduced by the Moors in best to buy fresh items in the tasty garlic sausage made with
turkey and chicken meat
(alheira de Mirandela) and a
sumptuous black sausage
(morcela) made from pork.
A wide variety of cheese is
made in Portugal. The best
is reputed to be from the
town of Serpa (see p316) and
the surrounding region of the
lower Alentejo. Serpa cheese
finds its way into many shops
throughout the country. It is
rivalled in taste and quality
perhaps only by cheese made
in the Serra da Estrela region
An antique shop full of wares in Lisbon (see p221, pp224–5).
DIRECTORY
Tax-Free Goods Ceramics Handicrafts Garrafeira Nacional
Rua de Santa Justa 18,
Global Blue Azulejos Sant’Anna Alto Minho Baixa.
∑ globalblue.com Rua do Alecrim 95, Handicrafts Route Map 7 B3.
Chiado, Lisboa. ∑ visitportugal.com Tel 218 887 9080.
Shopping Malls Map 7 A5.
Tapetes de Arraiolos Solar do Vinho
Tel 213 422 537.
Centro Colombo Rua Lima e Brito 8, do Porto
∑ santanna.com.pt
Avenida General Norton Arraiolos. Tel 266 419 526. Rua S Pedro de
de Matos, Benfica, Lisbon. Centro de ∑ casatapetes Alcântara, 45 Bairro
Tel 217 113 600. Artesanato arraiolos.com Alto, Lisbon.
∑ colombo.pt Largo Dr José Novais 27. Map 7 A3.
Tel 253 811 882. Wine and Spirits Tel 213 475 707.
Markets ∑ ivdp.pt
Porches Pottery Coisas do Arco
Feira de EN 125 Porches, do Vinho
Algarve. Centro Cultural
Antiques
Antiguidades
Estação Oriente, Lisbon. Tel 282 352 858. de Belém, Antique Tiles
∑ porchespottery.com Lisbon. Map 1 B5. Solar Rua D Pedro
Feira de Carcavelos
Tel 213 642 031. V 68-70, Bairro Alto,
Largo Mercado, Vista Alegre
Carcavelos. Atlantis Lisbon.
Clothing and Map 4 F2.
Largo do Chiado 22–23, Shoes
Feira de Cascais Tel 213 465 522.
Chiado, Lisbon.
Placa Mercado Municipal,
Map 7 A4. Parfois Arca de São José
Cascais.
Tel 213 461 401. Rua Augusta 146, Baixa Rua de São José 188,
Feira de São Pedro ∑ vistaalegre Map 7 B4. Lisbon.
São Pedro Sintra, Sintra. atlantis.com Tel 932 264 398. Tel 213 548 462.
ENTERTAINMENT IN PORTUGAL
The traditional love of music, dance and activities throughout the year. For specific
singing in Portugal is reflected in a vast information on Entertainment in Lisbon,
range of cultural activities and folk festivals see pp130–131. Theatre, classical and
that are celebrated in every corner of the contemporary music, opera, dance, film
country. Lisbon is considered to be one of festivals, pop, rock and jazz festivals and
the liveliest places in Europe after hours, variety shows featuring internationally
hosting a major parties at night plus a renowned performers are also held in other
large number of entertainment and cultural cities and regions of the country.
Classical Music, Opera

and Ballet
Some of the world’s most famous
orchestras and artists perform at
the major venues. The most pres
tigious is the Funcação Calouste
Gulbenkian (p131), with its own
orchestra and ballet company.
The Casa da Musica in Porto
has an extensive programme of
dance and music.
Rock, Jazz and

Performing Arts
Lisbon’s Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II The biggest openair rock festivals
are Rock in Rio Lisboa (held
Information that takes place at different every two years), Super Bock
The tourism boards issue a venues with dancers from all Rock Festival and NOS Alive.
free monthly calendar of over the world. Another big international event
programmes, events and The Sintra Festival of classical is the Festival MED featuring
venues. All Portuguese news music and dance is the pinnacle some of the leading World
papers have a “what’s on” of cultural events in Portugal. It Music singers and musicians.
section. The best guides in takes place in various stunning Some of the biggest names in
English are Follow Me, which fairytale venues, including the world jazz and blues appear at
can be found in Lisbon, Portugal romantic Palácio de Pena the major concert halls in the
News (www.thenews.net), (pp166–7), Palácio Nacional de big cities and at the jazz festivals
which is available in the Algarve Queluz (pp170–71) and Palácio in Lisbon, Porto, Guimarães, Viana
with some outlets in Lisbon. de Seteais (p161). do Castelo, and the Algarve.
Major venues in Lisbon for
worldclass performances of
Theatre and Dance Film jazz and other modern music
A wide range of professional All of the latest releases, usually include the Centro Cultural
and amateur productions can with subtitles, are screened in de Belém (p131), Coliseu dos
be seen in many cities and cinemas in shopping malls all
towns. Lisbon and Porto offer over the country, while fringe
the widest choice, with many cinema can be seen at a
established theatres and number of cultural centres
cultural centres staging world and theatres.
class productions. The Doclisboa is the only
Lisbon’s Teatro Nacional Dona festival dedicated exclusively to
Maria II (p131) is the principal documentary films; it attracts
theatre venue and Porto’s Teatro entries from all over the world.
Rivoli presents a prestigious The Porto Film Festival screens
twoweek International Festival scifi, fantasy and thrillers.
of Iberian theatre. The Lisbon & Sintra Film
The Algarve is well served by Festival is international in
municipal theatres. One of the scope and features master
biggest regional events is the classes, workshops, debates,
Algarve Folk Music and performances, exhibitions and The Rock in Rio Lisboa festival attracts
Contemporary Dance Festival other events. huge crowds
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O R T U G A L  421
is almost endless. The main

districts are Cais do Sodré near
the riverfront, and the Bairro
Alto, known for its (fado) houses
(see pp68–9). Lux (see p131) is
one of the more sophisticated
club venues, and attracts a
fashionable crowd. The jet-set in
Algarve flock to T-Clube in
Quinta do Lago.
Bullfighting
Women sporting colourful costumes during the Festas de Lisboa The Ribatejo region northeast
of Lisbon is bullfighting country
Recreios (p131), Culturgest, and merrymaking. One of the (see pp150–51) and the principal
and the MEO Arena (p131). most exuberant religious arena in this region is Praça de
One of the highlights of the festivals is the Romaria de Nossa Touros in Santarem. Lisbon’s
year is the Festival Porta-Jazz, Senhora d’Agonia (see p35). major arena is the Campo
with some of the legendary Another major festival is Festas Pequeno (see p122).
names in jazz and blues de Lisboa, which takes place in
participating. The Centro Lisbon throughout June. Cinema,
Cultural Vila Flor in Guimarães theatre and music events are
hosts one of Portugal’s most held, as well as street festivities
important jazz festivals. and parades, including the big
St Anthony’s folk parade (known
as Marchas Populares).
Carnivals
Celebrated mostly in honour of
the Saints or Our Lady, Portuguese Nightlife
festivals and carnivals are There is no shortage of places
colourful events with costumed to enjoy a drink, listen to music
dancers, decorated floats and and dance until the early hours
papier-mâché models. Two of of the morning in a nightclub or
the most famous are the Loulé late-night bar. Irish bars are in
Carnival in Algarve and vogue for a lively night out and
Funchal Carnival in Madeira. gay bars have sprung up in many
Thousands of visitors come to regions. For nightlife, Lisbon The colourful Romaria de Nossa Senhora
join in the three days of parades reigns supreme and the choice d’Agonia religious festival
DIRECTORY
Theatre and Dance Tel 213 470 816. Culturgest Carnivals
∑ doclisboa.org Rua do Arco do Cego 50,
Algarve Folk Music Lisbon. Map 6 D2. Festas de Lisboa
and Contemporary Porto Film Festival ∑ festasdelisboa.com
Tel 217 905 155.
Dance Festival Rua Aníbal Cunha 84,
∑ culturgest.pt Funchal Carnival
∑ visitalgarve.pt Porto. Tel 222 058 819.
∑ fantasporto.com Festival Porta-Jazz ∑ visitmadeira.pt
Teatro Rivoli Tel 223 392 201. Loulé Carnival
Praça D João, Porto. Classical Music, ∑ teatromunicipal- Tel 289 800 400.
Tel 223 392 201. Opera and Ballet doporto.pt ∑ visitalgarve.pt
∑ rivoli.bilheteira
online.pt Casa da Musica Festival MED
Nightlife
Av de Boavista 604-610, ∑ festivalmed.pt
Film Porto. Tel 220 120 220. T-Clube
NOS Alive
∑ casadamusica.com Quinta do Lago, Almancil,
Lisbon & Sintra Film ∑ nosalive.com
Algarve. Tel 289 356 213.
Festival Rock, Jazz and Rock in Rio Lisboa ∑ tclube.com
Tel 213 255 835. Performing Arts ∑ rockinriolisboa.
∑ leffest.com Bullfighting
sapo.pt
Centro Cultural Vila Flor
Doclisboa Avenida D Afonso Super Bock Rock Praça de Touros
Rua da Rosa 277, Lisbon. Henriques, Guimarães. Tel Festival Santarém. Tel 243 304
Map 4 F2. 253 424 700. ∑ ccvf.pt ∑ superbock.pt 437 (tourist office).
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Portugal offers an amazing variety of terrain whale watching, big game fishing, surfing
with sports and leisure activities to match. and horse riding. Water-skiing, jet-skiing,
The mild climate in the Algarve, Madeira and canoeing and kayaking can also be enjoyed,
the Azores means that many outdoor leisure as can mountaineering and rock-climbing.
pursuits can be enjoyed throughout the year. The unspoiled landscape invites leisurely
Specialist holidays are available for a variety walking. Golf (see pp426–7) and tennis
of activities, including microlight flying, facilities are well established.
Information Equipment can be hired or

Regional tourist offices can bought from Algarve Surf
provide information on sport School Camp, which offers
and outdoor activities. In lessons for beginners.
addition, the following The Azores islands catch
English language/bilingual huge swells, though access
publications provide informa can be difficult, and waves up
tion: Essential Algarve, Essential to 2 m (6 ft) in summer and
Madeira and the weekly 4.5 m (15 ft) in winter are for
newspapers The Resident and professionals only. The most
Portugal News. popular spots are Ribeira
Grande and Rabo de Peixe on Surfing – a popular pastime along the
the north coast of São Miguel. mainland coast and islands
Water Sports Madeira’s coastline boasts
Surfing, windsurfing, diving, exceptional conditions – the Berlengas Islands near
waterskiing and jetskiing are expecially near the village of Peniche on the Silver Coast,
popular along the coast and Jardim do Mar, Paul do Mar, and Madeira and the
around the Atlantic islands. the Ponta Pequena and the Azores, where divers may
Vilamoura Lda and renowned Ponta do Jardim. see tropical species such as
Algarvexcite, operating out of Excellent but difficult surfing barracuda, monkfish, dolphins,
Vilamoura Marina, are leading waters to access front the rays and giant mantas.
Algarve companies offering villages of Contreira, Ponta Diving centres include Dive
specialist holidays. Jetskis, Delgada and São Vicente. Time in Lagos, Algarve
waterskis and wakeboards For windsurfers, Praia do Dive Experience in Carvoeiro,
(along with powerboats) can Martinhal, near Sagres in Torpedo Diving in Vilamoura
be hired with the services of west Algarve, is one of the and Espírito Azul Diving on
expert instructors. most popular spots, a location São Miguel, Azores.
The best beaches for surfing served by water sports operator
are on the Lisbon coast at Windsurf Point.
Guincho and Ericeira. In the Scuba divers are drawn to Sailing and Canoeing
Algarve the long, sandy Praia de Portugal’s clear, mild waters The marinas at Lagos and
Arrifana (see pp292–294) on the and wealth of marine life. The Vilamoura in the Algarve are
west coast is a major destination. best diving is in the Algarve, important sailing and yachting
centres where international
regattas are staged. The
Portimão Marina and Lagos
Marina cater for the growing
interest in yachting in southern
Europe. The marina on the
island of Faial in the Azores is a
stoppingoff point for trans
Atlantic yachtsmen. Madeira
is an excellent destination for
boating and yachting, with
many marinas.
Water sports operator Bork,
runs sea kayaking excursions
out of Oeiras Marina, on the
Windsurfing near Martinhal in the Algarve Lisbon Coast.
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S  423
as Évora, Elvas, and Serpa – the

landscape and monuments
are inspirational.
The Lisbon coastline stretching
north has enjoyable coastal and
countryside routes. The areas
around Cascais and Sintra, with
its mountainous terrain and lush
forestation, is pleasant for walks.
Mountain bikes can be hired
in many areas of the country to
search out the most scenic trails.
Mountain Bike Adventures is a
good source of information.
Flying, Paragliding
Walking along one of Madeira’s levadas (irrigation channels) and Skydiving
Microlight flying is available at
Boating and the Sapal Nature Reserve the Algarve Air Sports Centre.
Tour operators in the Algarve, near Castro Marim (p337) are The centre was established by
Madeira and the Azores offer popular locations for nature ex-world champion Gerry Breen,
sightseeing cruises. Specialist lovers and bird-watchers. who is the chief instructor here.
holidays designed especially for Inland, the 300-km (186-mile) You can take lessons leading
wine buffs are offered by Douro Via Algarviana snakes through to a pilot’s qualification
Azul in the famous wine- the Algarve hinterland, from recognized by the Federacão
growing region in northern Alcoutim in the east to Cabo Portuguesa de Voo Livre
Portugal. The itinerary combines de São Vincente in the west. (National Association for Free
river trips with journeys on the Another long distance footpath, Flight), or occasional pleasure
old steam engines along Rota Vincentina runs along the flights along the rugged west
riverside routes that once Alentejo coast. Algarve coastline.
transported the wines to the Verdant and more densely The weather conditions and
city of Porto, and include forested North Portugal is a terrain in parts of Portugal are
overnight stays at traditional joy to explore on foot. Here, also ideal for paragliding. Most
wine-growing farms (quintas). you can follow the ancient students bring their own gear.
paths of the pilgrims to the Adrenalin seekers can indulge
holy shrine of Santiago de in the exhilarating sport of
Walking and Cycling Compostela in Spain. skydiving at the Aerodrome
Madeira is ideal as a walking Also well worth exploring Municipal de Portimão in
destination, with picturesque are the Peneda-Gerês National the Algarve.
villages, amazing mountain Park (pp276–7) and further
landscapes, rugged coastlines east Montesinho Natural Park
and golden beaches. The (p266), which offers scenic Fishing
favourite routes follow the mountain routes. The coastline, waterways and
island’s extensive network of The Alentejo has vast tracts rivers of Portugal offer plenty of
irrigation channels (levadas). of open plains, and near the opportunities for fishing, from
The Azores are a paradise bigger towns and cities – such angling for trout in the rivers to
for walkers and hikers, with
flowered roads, volcanic moun-
tainous terrain and verdant
countryside. Sherpa Expedi
tions specializes in walking
holidays here and in Madeira.
The Silver Coast (western
central Portugal) has undulating
terrain, forested hills and long,
sandy beaches, almost deserted
for most of the year.
The Algarve offers exhilarating
clifftop walks, especially along
the west coast. Portugal Walks
specializes in walking holidays
in this region. In the east of the
Ria Formosa Natural Park (p335) Microlight flying over Lagos Bay in the Algarve
Caving
The Algarve has more than 100
subterranean caves scattered
across the central and eastern
region, some dating from the
Jurassic period. For more
information, browse the Visit
Algarve website.
Many of the caves have
stalagmites and stalactites
but visitors should explore only
with a recommended guide.
On the Azores island of Terceira
the Algar do Carvão is one of the
volcanic wonders of the world.
It is a giant cave that spirals down
Whale-watching expedition up close to a whale wards nearly 100 m (300 ft) from
the opening of its conduit, ending
big game fishing off the or you can book a specialist at a crystalclear lake. Milky white
shores of the Algarve, the tennis holiday in the western stalactites and stalagmites cover
Lisbon Coast, the Silver Coast, Algarve through Tennis in large areas of the roof and walls.
Madeira and the Azores. Many the Sun. On Pico, the Gruta das Torres
of the rivers and lakes yield is the largest lava tube in the
abundant trout, carp and eels. Azores and a Regional Natural
A licence obtained locally from Whale Watching Monument. For more information,
the Instituto Florestal is required The Azores is a prime spot to visit the Montanheiros website.
to fish the rivers, but not for line see whales and other cetaceans,
fishing from the shore or from a such as dolphins, that are
boat at sea. Contact Federação attracted to the warm waters Climbing and
Portuguesa de Pesca Desportivo and abundant food. As many as Mountaineering
for further information. 20 different species have been Madeira’s volcanic origins and
Among the companies seen. The whalewatching season rugged mountain terrain, with
offering big game fishing are lasts from May to October due cliff faces rising from the sea,
Pescamar and Cruzeiros da to weather conditions, though offer exciting conquests for
Oura in the Algarve; Madeira whales inhabit the waters experienced climbers. The
Game Fishing, Nautisantos Big throughout the year. favourite areas are the central
Game Fishing, Turipesca and Whalewatching holidays as mountain range, the sea cliffs
Madeira Marlin in Madeira; well as daily expeditions are and some of the northern cliffs.
and Sports Fishing Azores offered by Whale Watch Azores, The Azores offers a similar
in the Azores. Futurismo Azores Whale landscape, and the island of
Watching, Espaçotalassa and Pico provides the ultimate
Ocean Emotion. challenge to scale its 2,341m
(7,680ft) mountain – the
highest in Portugal.
Horse Riding
Portugal’s proud riding
tradition stems mainly from the
country’s handsome Lusitano
horses and the sturdy Garrano
breed that roams free in the
PenedaGêres National Park
(see pp276–7).
Tennis player at the Vale de Lobo resort in One of the most renowned
the Algarve equestrian centres for training
Lusitano and Garrano horses is
Tennis Centro Equestre Vale do Lima,
Tennis courts are found almost where equestrian holidays with
everywhere in Portugal and lessons and tuition in horse care,
are an integral part of the riding and dressage are provided.
facilities in most tourist resorts. In the Algarve, Gois Valley
Many resorts also have squash Riding Holidays, Pinetrees
courts. The larger Algarve Riding Centre and Quinta do
resorts, such as Vale do Lobo, Paraiso Alto are wellknown Rock climbing in the rugged, volcanic
offer tennis coaching holidays, riding centres. terrain of Madeira
DIRECTORY
Water Sports Boating Algarve. Whale Watching
Tel 289 301 900.
Algarve Dive Douro Azul ∑ cruzeiros-da- Espaçotalassa
Experience Rua de Miragaia 103, oura.com Lajes do Pico, Pico, Azores.
Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve 4050-387, Porto. Tel 292 672 010.
Resort, Vale Covo, Algarve. Tel 223 402 500. Federação ∑ espacotalassa.com
Tel 282 351 194. ∑ douroazul.com Portuguesa de Pesca
Desportiva Futurismo Azores
∑ algarve-scuba-
Walking Rua Eça de Queirós 3 1º, Whale Watching
diving.com
1050-095 Lisbon. Portas do Mar, Loja 24,
and Cycling
Algarve Surf Tel 213 140 177. Ponta Delgada.
School Mountain Bike ∑ fppd.pt Tel 296 628 522.
Sagres, Algarve. Adventures ∑ futurismo.pt
Tel 963 133 009. Instituto Florestal
Tel 918 502 663. Ocean Emotion
∑ algarvesurf Avenida da República
∑ themountainbike
16, 1050-191 Lisbon. Marina de Angra do
school.com adventure.com
Tel 213 124 800. Heroísmo, Terceira,
Algarvexcite Portugal Walks ∑ icnf.pt Azores.
Vilamoura Marina, Algarve. Vila do Bispo, Algarve. Tel 967 806 944.
Tel 937 777 913. Madeira Game ∑ oceanemotion.pt
Tel 393 479 489.
∑ algarvexcite.com Fishing
∑ portugalwalks.com
Tel 291 227 169. Whale Watch Azores
Dive Time Rota Vincentina ∑ madeiragamefish. Marina da Horta,
Marina de Lagos, Lagos, Estrada da Circunvalação com 9900-017 Horta, Faial
Algarve. Tel 282 099 774. Odemira, Alentejo. Island. Tel 292 293 891.
∑ dive-time.net Madeira Marlin
∑ rotavincentina.com ∑ whalewatchazores.
Rua da Estalagem 23, São
Espírito Azul Diving com
Sherpa Expeditions Gonçalo 9060-415
Marina de Vila Franca do ∑ sherpaexpeditions. Funchal, Madeira.
Campo, São Miguel,
Horse Riding
com Tel 291 790 350.
Azores. Tel 914 898 352. ∑ madeira-marlin.com Centro Equestre
∑ espiritoazul.com Via Algarviana
Nautisantos Big Vale do Lima
Rua de S. Domingos 65,
Torpedo Diving Game Fishing Quinta da Sobreira,
Loulé, Algarve.
Vilamoura, Algarve. Funchal Marina, Funchal, Sernados, Ponte de Lima.
Tel 289 412 959.
Tel 289 314 098. Madeira. Tel 291 231 312. Tel 258 943 873.
∑ viaalgarviana.org
∑ visitalgarve.pt ∑ nautisantosfishing. ∑ grupojpimenta.com
Vilamoura Marina Flying, com Gois Valley

8125-409 Vilamoura. Paragliding Pescamar Riding Holidays
Tel 289 310 560. and Skydiving Marina de Lagos, Algarve. Cada do Linteiro 3330-
∑ marinade Tel 966 193 431. 421, Vila Nova do Ceira,
Aerodrome Municipal
vilamoura.com ∑ pescamar.info Gois. Tel 235 778 689.
de Portimão
∑ ridingportugal.com
Windsurf Point Montes de Alvor. Sport Fishing
Meia Praia, Lagos. Tel 282 480 360. Azores Pinetrees
Tel 282 792 315. ∑ cm-portimao.pt Ponta Delgada, São Riding Centre
∑ windsurfpoint.com Miguel, Azores. Casa dos Pinheiros, Corgo
Algarve Air
Tel 296 636 592. da Zorra, Almancil.
Sports Centre
∑ sportfishing Tel 289 394 369.
Aerodróme de Lagos,
Sailing and Lagos 8601-903, azores.com ∑ pinetrees.pt
Canoeing Algarve. Quinta do Paraiso
Turipesca
Bork Tel 914 903 384. Marina do Funchal, Alto
Oeiras Marina, ∑ gerrybreen.com Madeira. Bensafrim, 8600 Lagos.
Lisbon Coast. Tel 291 231 063. Tel 282 687 596.
Federação Portuguesa
Tel 919 506 136/916 ∑ madeirafishing ∑ qpahorseriding.com
de Voo Livre
097 744. centre.com
Av Cidade de
∑ borkyou.com Lourenso Marques,
Tennis Caving
Lagos Marina Modulo 2 Praceta B,
Lagos, Algarve. Lisbon. Tennis In The Sun Associação Os
Tel 282 770 210. Tel 218 522 885. Tel 0333 566 0045. Montanheiros
∑ marlagos.pt ∑ fpvl.pt ∑ tennisinthesun.com Rua da Rocha 8, Angra do
Heroísmo, Terceira, Azores.
Portimão Marina Fishing Vale do Lobo
Tel 295 212 992.
Edifício Admin Ponta da Estrada Vale do Lobo,
∑ montanheiros.com
Areia, Portimão. Tel 282 Cruzeiros da Oura Almancil, Algarve.
400 680. ∑ marinade Cais Q Escritório no 3, Tel 289 353 333. Visit Algarve
portimao.com.pt Marina de Vilamoura, ∑ valedolobo.com ∑ visitalgarve.pt
Golfing Holidays in Portugal players of all levels. Oitavos

Dunes is part of the Quinta da
Portugal is well established as a golfing destination, and Marinha resort near Cascais. The
specialist golfing holidays have become a very popular way of par-71 course, designed by Arthur
visiting the country. The Algarve in particular has emerged as Hills, offers great views of the
Atlantic and of the Sintra hills. It
one of Europe’s premier golfing regions. Its mild winters and is set in the Sintra-Cascais Natural
large number of quality courses make it attractive to the Park and runs in a loop among
serious as well as the recreational golfer. The other main reforested sand dunes, pine
golfing region is the area around Lisbon, but there are courses woods and open coastal terrain.
in central and northern Portugal as well. The Porto Golf Club There is another 18-hole course
located within the resort, the
has the distinction of being one of the oldest courses in
Quinta da Marinha Golf Club.
Europe. Madeira and the Azores also cater for the golfer. Nearby is the Penha Longa Golf
Club with a par-72 course set in
a landscape similar to that of the
Oitavos course. This is comple-
mented by a 9-hole course.
Sections of Tróia Golf, a challen-
ging par-72 course of small
greens and narrow fairways, run
alongside Tróia beach, with a
view of the Arrábida hills, which
offer the course and beach pro-
tection from the northerly winds.
Southern Portugal
The Algarve is one of Europe’s
top golfing destinations. Across
the region there are no fewer
than 40 golf courses, including
The scenic Penha Longa Golf Club, Central Portugal many designed by the sport’s
greatest names, such as Jack
General Information 2007. Visit www.pga.com for Nicklaus, Nick Faldo and Sir
The majority of Portugal’s more details on tournaments. Henry Cotton. The choice of
nearly 60 golf courses are by the layouts is inspiring, with the
sea, with spectacular scenery. Algarve’s varied coastline
Along the mainland west Northern Portugal providing the setting for some
coast and in exposed areas of The north is the least developed truly spectacular and challenging
western Algarve, the wind in terms of golf courses, though courses. Inland, there is a more
increases as the day progresses, it was here that golf began in rustic backdrop, but the game is
so golfers wishing to avoid it Portugal when Scottish and no less demanding. The number
should opt for an early start. English port shippers founded and density of golf courses in
The main season runs from the Oporto Golf Club in 1890. the Algarve means that a visitor
mid-autumn to late spring, The course is the oldest in the to any part of the region can
but summer can also be busy. Iberian peninsula; the par-71 reach a golf course in a couple
Always book ahead. Rates circuit is laid out on sand dunes of hours at most.
vary from just over €30 to over by the Atlantic. The Amarante
€150 for a round of 18 holes, Golf Club offers a varied par-68
but discounts are available mountain course.
through tour operators, hotels
and booking services.
Lisbon and Central
Portugal
Major Tournaments Near Óbidos, the Praia d’El Rey
Portugal currently hosts three Golf Club is one of Portugal’s
PGA tournaments: the Madeira most highly regarded. Laid out
Island Open, held at the Santo by American golf architect
da Serra (March); the Open de Cabell Robinson, the long par-
Portugal, held in the Algarve or 72 course is set in a coastal
Lisbon area (March or April); and resort and extends across sand
the Portugal Masters, first held dunes, cliffs and pine woods. Putting at historic Porto Golf Club,
at Victoria Vilamoura in October The course is accessible to Northern Portugal
Madeira and the Azores

Palheiro Golf is a beautiful
mountain course. Santo da
Serra Golf hosts the Madeira
Island Open. Porto Santo Golf
features two 18-hole courses,
designed by Severiano
Ballesteros. Dramatic clifftop
ocean holes are combined with
long holes along the island’s
famous beach. São Miguel,
the main island in the Azores
One of the scenic golf courses at Vilamoura resort in central Algarve archipelago, has two golf
courses: Furnas and Batalha.
The oldest course along this east is Vale do Lobo, the first The former overlooks the
coast is Penina, part of the golf resort in the Algarve, stunning Furnas valley and
Penina Hotel & Golf Resort opened in 1962. Its Royal course the latter is by the ocean,
(see p394). The par-73 parkland is a demanding par-72 course on the island’s north coast.
course is complemented overlooking the beach and
by two 9-hole the Atlantic. The resort’s
courses. other course, Ocean, is
Farther east, equally challenging.
Vale da Pinta Neighbouring Quinta
is a highly do Lago, has two
regarded par- excellent golf courses,
71 course. South and North. Also
The vast Vilamoura within the resort, but
resort in central Algarve is not owned by it, are
home to five golf courses, Winner at two other top par-72
all of the highest standard. Santo da Serra, courses, San Lorenzo
Victoria Vilamoura was Madeira and Pinheiros Altos.
acclaimed as one of the Over in the east, par-72
best courses in Europe within a Monte Rei lies amid rolling hills Porto Santo Golf on the island of Porto
year of opening. Slightly farther peppered with olive trees. Santo, northeast of Madeira
DIRECTORY
Northern Praia d’El Rey Quinta Madeira and
Portugal Vale de Janelas (near do Lago the Azores
Óbidos). Tel 262 905 100. Nr Almancil.
Amarante Golf Club ∑ praia-del-rey.com Tel 289 390 700. Batalha
Quinta da Deveza, Fregim. Fenais da Luz.
∑ quintadolago.com
Tel 255 446 060. Quinta da Marinha Tel 296 498 559.
∑ golfedeamarante.
Golf Club San Lorenzo ∑ azoresgolfislands.
Quinta da Marinha. Tel 214 Quinta do Lago, com
com
860 100. ∑ quintada Nr Almancil.
Furnas
Oporto Golf Club marinha.com Tel 289 396 522.
Achada das Furnas.
Paramos, Espinho. ∑ sanlorenzogolf
Tróia Golf Tel 296 584 651.
Tel 227 342 008. course.com
Complexo Turístico de ∑ azoresgolfislands.com
∑ oportogolfclub.com
Tróia, Carvalhal. Vale do Lobo Palheiro Golf
Tel 265 499 400. Nr Almancil.
Lisbon and ∑ troiagolf.com
Rua do Balançal, São
Tel 289 353 465.
Central Portugal Gonçalo. Tel 291 790 120.
∑ valedolobo.com ∑ palheirogolf.com
Oitavos Dunes Southern
Portugal Vale da Pinta Porto Santo Golf
Quinta da Marinha. Carvoeiro, Sítio das Marinhas, Porto
Tel 214 860 600. Monte Rei Nr Lagoa. Santo. Tel 291 983 778.
∑ oitavosdunes.com Sesmarias, Algarve. Tel 282 340 900. ∑ portosantogolfe.com
Penha Longa Tel 281 950 960. ∑ pestanagolf.com
∑ monte-rei.com
Santo da Serra Golf
Golf Club Victoria Santo da Serra, Nr
Estrada da Pinheiros Altos Vilamoura Machico.
Lagoa Azul, Linhó. Quinta do Lago, Almancil. Vilamoura, EN 125. Tel 291 550 100.
Tel 219 249 011. Tel 289 359 910. Tel 289 320 100. ∑ santodaserragolf.
∑ penhalonga.com ∑ pinheirosaltos.pt ∑ dompedrogolf.com com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 430–439

Travel Information 440–449
430  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Portugal manages to pack a great deal roads and rail services. Nationwide tourist
for a small country. Its north is remote and offices provide up-to-date information on
mountainous, while the flat central plains attractions and accomodation, while the
give way to a coastline fringed with golden country has reliable Wi-Fi coverage. Easily
beaches. Spanning this geographically reached by air from the rest of Europe and
diverse nation is an excellent network of beyond, Portugal is easy to explore.
When to Go Agreement. If they stay for more Consulates can generally

The country’s long Atlantic than six months, they should provide uptodate information
coast is the single most apply for a residence permit. There on particular customs
important factor in Portugal’s is currently no visa requirement regulations and prohibited
climate. Coastal regions can be for Americans, Canadians, New goods. For more details on
very rainy in winter, and Zealanders or Australians customs and other taxrelated
although temperatures don’t entering Portugal. Nationals of matters, see pages 416–17.
drop that low, it often feels very those countries may stay for up
cold. In the mountainous north to 90 days and then apply for
it’s not uncommon for snow to an extension (usually Tourist Information
fall on higher ground. another 90 days). The Portuguese
The Algarve, then, is the However, travellers Ministry of Tourism
only yearround destination, from outside the EU divides the country
with hot summers and mild should check with into a number of
winters. Other coastal areas the nearest Portuguese touristic regions,
generally have warm to hot embassy or consulate which are separate
summers, with either balmy or before going, as visa from its adminis
windy evenings. Inland areas regulations are trative districts.
throughout the country are subject to change. All major cities or
subject to more extreme large towns within
conditions, with colder winters each touristic region
even in the Alentejo and hotter Travel have a municipal
summers even in Trásos Safety Advice Bottles of port tourist office (Posto
Montes. Madeira enjoys a more Visitors can get upto de Turismo), as do
temperate climate, but the date travel safety information the larger towns on Madeira
Azores are susceptible to winter from the Foreign and and the Azores. This guide
storms. Spring and autumn are Commonwealth Office in the gives details of the relevant
good times to visit because the UK, the State Department tourist information office for
weather is mild, but spring in in the US and the Department each sight. Here, visitors can
particular may be wet (see pp38–9). of Foreign Affairs and Trade obtain information about the
in Australia. region, town plans, maps and
details on regional events. In
Visas and Passports some cases they will also sell
EU nationals need only a valid Customs Information tickets for local shows and
passport to enter Portugal, which Restrictions apply to liquids concerts. Information about
is a signatory to the Schengen carried on board aircraft. local hotels will be available
from the tourist office,
though they will not usually
book the accommodation.
Opening hours vary, but
they generally follow the
same opening hours as local
shops. There are tourist offices
at all the major airports, as
well as in all cities and large
towns. In more rural areas,
offices are often closed at
weekends, and may not offer
the same services that can be
found in larger towns. Visitors
can also obtain information
prior to travelling, from
High season on a beach in the resort of Carvoeiro, in the Algarve Portuguese tourist offices
Boats on the Duoro river, in Porto

P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  431
little difficulty understanding travel agents and the

Portuguese text. However, askmelisboa.com website. It
spoken Portuguese sounds allows free entry to 25 of the
nothing like spoken Spanish. city’s museums and reduced
The Portuguese are proud of entry to many others, including
their language, which is widely a number of historic monu
spoken throughout the world as ments, as well as free public
a result of former colonial ties transport for a fixed period.
with Brazil and a number of Lisboa Cards are valid for one,
countries in Africa, and they two or three days.
may take offence at being
addressed in Spanish. A phrase
book containing the most Opening Hours
useful words and phrases, Museums are usually open
along with their phonetic 10am–5pm from Tuesday to
Signpost in the village of Marvão pronunciations, can be found Sunday, with many closing for
on pages 479–80. lunch either noon–2pm or
abroad. These offices will 12:30–2:30pm. Smaller and
normally provide visitors private museums may have
planning a trip with a wide Museums and different opening times. Most
range of useful maps, fact Admission Prices museums and some sights close
sheets and tourist brochures. Most of Portugal’s museums are on Mondays and public holidays.
run by the state, although there Major churches are open during
are also some private ones. In the day without a fixed
Etiquette addition to the main national timetable, although some may
Although English is more widely museums and galleries, there close between noon and 4pm.
spoken in Portugal than in are many regional ones Smaller churches and those in
neighbouring Spain, the scattered around the country. rural areas may only be open for
Portuguese appreciate visitors’ These cover a range of topics, religious services, and in some
efforts, however small, to from the history of a region to cases you may need to find the
communicate in their language. the works of local artists. Most keyholder for admittance.
A simple bom dia (good museums charge a small fee,
morning) or boa tarde (good which varies from €1 to €3.
afternoon) can work wonders. These charges are sometimes Public Conveniences
For any attempts at more reduced or waived altogether The Portuguese for toilets is
advanced communication, be on Sundays and public holidays. casa de banho. If the usual
prepared to repeat yourself People under 14 and pensioners figures of a man or woman are
several times, allowing your (with proof of age) may obtain a not shown, look for homens,
listener to adjust to the 40 per cent discount. Those senhores or cavalheiros (men),
peculiarities of your under 26 with a Cartão Jovem and senhoras or damas (ladies).
pronunciation. Portuguese (youth card) or ISIC card (Inter Toilet facilities are provided at
retains some oldfashioned national Student Identity Card) motorway service areas approx
modes of address that are seen are entitled to halfprice entrance. imately every 40 km (25 miles)
as polite rather than formal, Tourists to Lisbon may also and at coach and railway stations.
including o senhor and a buy a Lisboa Card, available They can also be found in
senhora where English uses from the airport, tourist offices, shopping malls.
“you”. This contrasts with the
informality of cheek kisses, used
between men and women, as
well as between women, in
most situations except formal
and business introductions.
Men tend to shake hands.
Although dress is generally
relaxed these days, arms should
be covered up and shorts
should not be worn when
visiting churches.
Language
Written Portuguese is fairly
similar to Spanish, so if you
know Spanish you should have National Museum Soares dos Reis at the Carrancas Palace in Porto
accommodation in Portugal,
including several award-
winning hostels in Lisbon and
other large cities.
Women Travellers
Travelling alone in Portugal is
fairly safe for women, although
common principles, such as
keeping to well-lit, public areas
after dark, still apply. Some areas
of Lisbon, such as the Baixa,
Cais do Sodrá, and Porto’s
Ribeira (riverfront) are probably
best avoided at bar closing time.
Resorts on the Algarve and
Lisbon coasts tend to be the
worst for unwanted attention.
Hitching alone is not safe;
use registered taxis or take
Family fun at the Slide & Splash park near Estombar, in the Algarve public transport.
Travellers with Senior Travellers
Disabilities Travellers aged 60 and over can Religion
Facilities for the disabled in take advantage of a range of Roman Catholicism is the
Portugal have improved benefits – including discounted dominant religion in Portugal.
greatly, with wheelchairs and rail travel and reduced Church services are held most
adapted toilets available at admission fees to many evenings and every Sunday
airports and the main stations, sightseeing attractions such as morning, as well as on religious
and reserved car parking museums, national monuments holidays. Sightseeing in
increasingly evident. Ramps and theatres – simply by churches may sometimes be
and lifts are installed in many showing some ID. Buses and difficult (and is certainly not
public places. Some buses can metro trains have designated encouraged) while services
accommodate wheelchair- seating areas reserved for the are in progress.
bound passengers (identified elderly and the infirm, but you’ll Churches of other
by the blue-and-white find that passengers are usually denominations, including
wheelchair emblem at the more than willing to give up Church of England, Baptist
front of the vehicle). their own seat if necessary. and Evangelical, can be found
Portugal-based specialist in larger towns and cities.
tour companies Accessible St Vincent’s Anglican Church,
Portugal and Ourico do Mar Student Travellers which travels from place to
design holidays for people Young people aged 12–25 may place, holds a number of
who have reduced mobility buy a Cartão Jovem (youth religious services in the Algarve.
or are in wheelchairs. card), which costs about €10
and is valid for a year. It offers
travel insurance and discounts Time
Travelling with Children for shops, restaurants, museums, Portugal and Madeira follow
Portugal is a family-friendly travel and youth hostels (see Britain in adopting Greenwich
destination, and children from p382). This card is supplied by Mean Time (GMT) in winter and
4 to 12 years old enjoy a number the Instituto moving the
of travel and sightseeing Português da clocks forward
discounts, sometimes as much Juventude one hour from
as 75 per cent; for those under (Portuguese March to
4, it’s very often free. Most Youth Institute). October (as in
restaurants have half-price kids’ The Inter- British Summer
menus, and hotels and some national Time). In the
guesthouses offer reduced Student Identity Azores, clocks
tariffs for children under the Card (ISIC) Student card are one hour
age of 8 if they share their provides the behind GMT
parents’ room. Many of the same benefits as the Cartão in winter and the same as
larger establishments provide Jovem and can be bought in GMT in summer. The 24-hour
a supervised crèche and your own country. Backpackers clock is more commonly used
playground facilities. have a good choice of budget throughout Portugal.
Electricity Visitors to Portugal can make their

Voltage in Portugal is 220 volts, own eco-friendly contribution
and plugs have two round by purchasing organic produce
pins. Most hotel bathrooms at local markets and opting for
offer built-in adaptors for souvenirs made from cork, a
electric razors. totally sustainable product.
Responsible Travel Conversion Chart

Portugal’s green credentials Marina at Vilamoura resort, Algarve Imperial to Metric
are impressive, and they are 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
exemplified by the proliferation Nearly 300 beaches and 17 1 foot = 30.5 centimetres
of ecotourism organizations marinas in Portugal have been 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
such as Center, which promotes honoured with a Blue Flag 1 ounce = 28 grams
cultural and environmental award, an initiative that works 1 pound = 454 grams
awareness through its towards sustainable develop- 1 pint = 0.6 litres
partnership with Solares de ment through water quality, 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
Portugal, a nationwide network environmental education and
of historic private properties safety. Many of these beaches Metric to Imperial
that are open to the public. are in the Algarve, where the 1 millimetre = 0.04 inches
At Zambujeira do Mar, in the Vilamoura resort has also won a 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
Alentejo, is Zmar, the country’s Green Globe award, an accolade 1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
first sustainable and eco- that recognizes businesses that 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
friendly camp site, which strive to protect and conserve 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
harnesses solar energy to resources, reduce waste 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
power its chalets. and prevent pollution. 1 litre = 1.8 pints
DIRECTORY
Embassies Travel Safety Porto Places of Worship
and Consulates Advice Rua Clube dos Fenianos
25, 4000–172, Porto. St George’s Church
Australia Australia Department Rua de São Jorge
Tel 223 393 472.
Avenida da Liberdade of Foreign Affairs à Estrela 6, Lisbon.
∑ visitporto.travel
200, 2°, 1250-147, and Trade Tel 214 692 303.
Lisbon. Map 5 C5. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au In the UK:
St James’s Church
Tel 213 101 500. 11 Belgrave Square,
UK Foreign and Largo da Maternidade
London SW1X 8PP.
Canada Commonwealth Office de Júlio Dinis, Porto.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
Avenida da Liberdade Tel 226 064 989.
∑ gov.uk/foreign- ∑ portugaloffice.org.uk
196–200, 3°, 1269-121, travel-advice Lisbon Synagogue
Lisbon. Map 5 C5. In the USA: Rua A Herculano 59,
Tel 213 164 600. US Department 590 Fifth Ave, 4th floor,
Lisbon.
of State New York. Tel 213 881 592.
Republic of Tel 212 220 5772.
Ireland ∑ travel.state.gov/ St Vincent’s
Avenida da Liberdade Travellers with Anglican Church
200-4°,1250-147,
Tourist Offices Disabilities (Algarve)
Lisbon. Apartado 135,
Coimbra Accessible Portugal
Map 4 F1. Boliqueime.
Praça da República Tel 211 338 693.
Tel 213 308 200. Tel 289 366 720.
3000–343 Coimbra. ∑ accessible
United Kingdom Tel 939 010 034. portugal.com Responsible
Rua de São Bernardo 33, ∑ turismodecoimbra.pt Travel
Ourico do Mar
1249-082, Lisbon. Faro ∑ ouricodomar.com Blue Flag
Map 4 D2. Rua da Misericórdia 8-12,
Tel 213 924 000. ∑ blueflag.org
8000-296, Faro. Student
British Consulates Tel 289 803 604. Information Center
Azores Tel 296 628 175. ∑ visitalgarve.pt ∑ center.pt
Funchal Tel 291 212 860
Instituto Português
Lisbon Zmar Eco Camping
da Juventude
Portimão Tel 282 490 750.
Lisboa Welcome Center, Resort
Avenida da Liberdade
∑ zmar.eu
USA Rua do Arsenal 29, 1100- 194, 1250 Lisbon.
Avenida das Forças 038, Lisbon. Map 7 B5. Tel 707 203 030.
Armadas, 1600, Lisbon. Tel 210 312 700. ∑ juventude.gov.pt/
Tel 217 273 300. ∑ visitlisboa.com portal
Personal Health and Security

Portugal does not have a serious crime problem, but simple
precautions should always be taken. Watch out for pick
pockets in crowded areas and on public transport, avoid
carrying large amounts of cash and never leave valuables
in parked cars. The police are helpful, although bureaucratic
and reporting a crime can be slow but is necessary. For minor
health complaints, consult a pharmacist.
Police station at Bragança in the
Trás-os-Montes region
Portuguese Police Personal Security
In all main cities and towns, Violent crime is rare in What to Do in an
the police force is the Polícia Portugal; however, it is worth Emergency
de Segurança Pública (PSP). taking a few sensible precau The number to call in an
A special unit tions. In Lisbon, emergency is 112. Dial the
patrols the rail avoid quiet areas number and ask for the service
and metro such as the Baixa you require – police (polícia),
systems. Law and after dark, and ambulance (ambulância) or fire
order in rural don’t stroll alone brigade (bombeiros). If you need
areas is kept by through Bairro medical treatment, the casualty
the Guarda Alto, Alfama or department (serviço de
Nacional around Cais do urgência) of the closest main
Republicana Sodrá after bars’ hospital will treat you. On
(GNR). The closing time. motorways and main roads, use
Brigada de Always be the orange SOS telephone to
Trânsito (traffic aware of pick call for help if you have a car
police) division pockets and accident. The service is in
of the GNR, bagsnatchers. Portuguese; press the button
recognizable by Motorway SOS telephone Similar pre and then wait for the operator,
its red armbands, cautions apply to who will connect you.
is responsible for patrolling some of the resorts in the
the roads. Algarve and to the Ribeira
district of Porto. Health Precautions
It is a good idea to ignore No vaccinations are needed
Reporting a Crime any jeers and heckles – they are for visitors, although doctors
If you have any property usually not as serious as they recommend being uptodate
stolen, contact the nearest sound. Other precautions with tetanus, diptheria and
police station immediately. include not carrying large measles jabs. Tap water is
Theft of documents, such as amounts of cash, and holding safe to drink throughout the
a passport, should also be on to mobile phones and country. If you are visiting
reported to your consulate. cameras. If you are robbed, during the summer it is
Many insurance companies do not try to resist. advisable to bring insect
insist that policy holders
report any theft within
24 hours. The police will file a
report, which you will need in
order to claim from your
insurance company on your
return home. Contact the
PSP in towns or cities, or the
GNR in rural areas. In all
situations, keep calm and be
polite to the authorities to
avoid delays. The same applies
should you be involved in a car
accident. In rural areas you
may be asked to accompany
the other driver to the nearest
police station to complete the
necessary paperwork. Ask for
an interpreter if no one there
speaks English. Traffic policeman PSP officer GNR officer
DIRECTORY
Emergency Numbers
AP Portugal
Avenida Joáo Crisóstomo 30-5°,
1050-127, Lisbon.
Tel 213 303 759.
∑ apportugal.com
British Hospital
Torres de Lisboa,
Fire engine Rua Tomás da Fonseca,
1600-209 Lisbon.
Tel 800 271 271.
General Emergency
(Fire, Police, Ambulance)
Tel 112.
Ordem dos Advogados
Largo de São Domingos 14, 1°,
1169-060 Lisbon.
Tel 218 823 550.
Ambulance Tourist Police
Palácio Foz-Restauradores,
1250-187, Lisbon.
Tel 213 421 623/400 090.
sudden illness abroad, medical

Police car repatriation and personal
liability. Always check any
repellent, as mosquitoes, Pharmacies exclusions, and ensure that
while they do not present any In the event of minor ailments, your policy covers you for all
serious health problems, head to the nearest pharmacy the activities you wish to
can be a nuisance. (farmácia), where they can undertake while away. It’s also
diagnose simple health a good idea to make several
problems and suggest photocopies of the policy,
Medical Treatment treatment. Pharmacists can leaving one copy at home
Social security coverage is dispense a range of drugs that for reference.
available for all EU nationals, are available on prescription in An insurance policy that
although you may have to pay many other countries. The sign covers the costs of legal
first and reclaim later. To reclaim, for a farmácia is a green cross advice, issued by companies
you must obtain a European on a white background. They such as Europ Assistance or
Health Insurance Card (EHIC) are open from 9am to 1pm and Mondial Assistance, will help
before you travel. Apply for this 3pm to 7pm on weekdays, and with the legal aspects of your
at post offices throughout the from 9am to 1pm on Saturdays. insurance claim should you
UK or from the Department of Each pharmacy displays a card have an accident.
Health; it comes with a booklet showing the address of the If you have not arranged
called Health Advice for Travellers, nearest all-night pharmacy this cover and need legal
which explains entitlements and a list of those with late assistance, call your nearest
and how to claim them. The closing (10pm). consulate or the Ordem dos
card covers emergencies only, Advogados (lawyers’ assoc-
so medical insurance is strongly iation), which can give you the
advised. Bear in mind that Travel and Health names of English-speaking
private health care is expensive Insurance lawyers and help you with
in Portugal, and get an itemized While specific health risks are obtaining representation.
bill for your insurance carrier. rare in Portugal, accidents can Lists of interpreters, if you
The British Hospital in Lisbon happen, so you should always require one, are given in the
has English-speaking doctors, as take out comprehensive travel local Yellow Pages (Páginas
do health centres on the Lisbon and health insurance before Amarelas) under Tradutores e
coast and throughout the travelling. Make sure the policy Intérpretes, or you can contact
Algarve. For details, look in the covers you for medical and the AP Portugal, which is based
local English-language press. health costs for an injury or a in Lisbon, for information.
Banking and Local Currency

As a member state of the European Union, Portugal falls
within the eurozone, and its unit of currency is the euro.
Traveller’s cheques are the safest way to carry money, but
cashing them can be quite expensive and time-consuming,
plus they are seldom accepted as payment. Credit and debit
cards are often a more convenient option, and funds can be
readily obtained from ATMs. Still, it is always a good idea to
arrive with enough euros in cash to cover one or two days’
expenditure. Bank exchange rates can vary and bureaux de
change may be more convenient.
A Multibanco machine (ATM)

Banks and Bureaux accept them as payment,
de Change and cashing them may be inland and in the north of
In Portugal, banks are open quite expensive. In general, the country. Likewise, in these
between 8:30am and 3pm, Mon bureaux de change are better locations, you should expect
day to Friday. Some branches for this than banks, where to pay more for meals and
stay open for longer, usually until commissions may be high. drinks. In Madeira and the
6pm – enquire at individual Most visitors, however, find Azores, taxi hire is pricier than
banks to find out which these it most practical and convenient on the mainland.
are, since they sometimes to withdraw cash from an
change. Banks are closed at week ATM (Multibanco, or MB) using
ends and on public holidays. their credit/debit card. DIRECTORY
Money can be changed at Multibanco machines are
banks, bureaux de change typically found inside and Major Banks
(agências de câmbios) and at outside bank branches, at
Banco Bilbao Vizcaya
many hotels. Bank branches public transport hubs and in Argentária
are everywhere, but be aware shopping centres. Most accept Avenida da Liberdade 222,
that their rates of exchange Visa, MasterCard, American Lisbon. Tel 213 117 200.
and commissions vary. Waiting Express, Maestro and Cirrus
times and bureaucratic cards. Bear in mind that Banco Português de
practices can make banks transaction fees are always Investimento (BPI)
Rua de Passos Manuel 103, Porto.
a timeconsuming option. charged when withdrawing
Tel 222 046 160.
Bureaux de change charge cash on a card, and that these
higher commissions than are sometimes irrespective of Banco Santander Totta
many banks but offer a more the amount withdrawn. Fewer Avenida dos Aliados 37, Porto.
expedient service, as well as and larger withdrawals are Tel 222 046 410.
longer opening hours therefore preferable to Banco Português de
(including weekends). As a many small ones. Investimento (BPI)
rule, hotels have the highest Larger denomination Avenida da Liberdade 249,
rates of exchange. At banks banknotes, such as the €200 Lisbon. Tel 213 531 170.
and bureaux de change you and €500 notes, have a limited Caixa Geral de Depósitos
may be asked to show your circulation in Portugal, and Rua Dom Francisco Gomes 2,
passport or some other form some establishments may Faro. Tel 289 810 590.
of identification for exchange refuse to accept them,
transactions. Alternatively, preferring instead to work with Lost Cards or
there are financial service smaller, more manageable Traveller’s Cheques
companies, like Western denominations.
Union, based in Portugal American Express
Tel 180 052 284 800 (USA).
that can arrange personto
person money transfers and Regional Cost Variations MasterCard
money orders. Costs in Portugal can vary Tel 080 096 4767 (UK).
considerably depending on Travelex
which part of the country you Tel 800 880 508 (Portugal).
Traveller’s Cheques are visiting. For example, hotel
and Cards prices in Lisbon and P Visa
Traveller’s cheques are a orto and at some of the larger Tel 800 811 824 (Portugal).
safe but not very convenient holiday resorts in the Algarve
way of carrying money. It is very are generally higher than in
rare for shops or hotels to similar establishments located
The Euro phased out by March 2002. designs of fictional archi

The euro (€) is the common EU members using the euro tectural structures. The coins,
currency of the European as sole currency are known as however, have one side
Union. It went into general the eurozone. Several EU identical (the value side),
circulation on 1 January 2002, members have opted out of and one side with an image
initially for 12 countries. joining this common currency. unique to each country.
Portugal was one of those Euro notes are identical Both notes and coins are
12 countries, and its original throughout the eurozone exchangeable in each of
currency, the escudo, was countries, each one including the eurozone countries.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey
in colour) is the smallest, followed
by the €10 note (pink), €20 note
(blue), €50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple). All notes show 5 euros
the stars of the European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €1 and €2;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The €1 and €2 coins are both silver and
gold in colour. The 50, 20 and 10cent coins
are gold. The 5, 2 and 1cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
Media and Communication pay a substantial premium for

the international leg of the call.
Information and telecommunications technology in Another popular option is to
Portugal has advanced at a remarkable rate. Visitors purchase a local SIM card – the
should have few problems using public telephones, electronic chip that links your
phone to a particular network –
whether coin-operated or those that accept phone
that can be topped up with
cards. The country’s three main mobile phone operators, credit and uses the local mobile
Vodafone, TMN and Optimus, all have excellent coverage phone networks. You can only
across the entire country, including Madeira and the do this if your handset is
Azores. Internet cafés can be found in all urban areas “unlocked” – some operators
and some post offices also offer online facilities. English- lock their phones to specific
networks. In Portugal hiring or
language newspapers and magazines are readily available even purchasing a mobile
in major cities. phone is a good idea if you
intend to remain in the country
for an extended period. The cost
Public Telephones of calling both nationally and
Public pay phones in Portugal internationally will be
are mostly card operated; it is significantly cheaper and you
rare to find one that accepts will not be charged for calls to
coins. They are found in booths a Portuguese phone unlike a
in the streets as well as in bars, phone from another country.
cafés and shopping centres. It is worth checking your
Card operated phones are more insurance policy in case your
common and more convenient, phone gets stolen and keeping
accepting a variety of phone your network operator’s
cards available from post offices, helpline number handy for
newsagents, tobacconists and emergencies. Remember to
Telecom company outlets. They bring an electrical adaptor for
also tend to be cheaper, with an the charger if necessary.
average of about 3 Euro cents
for a local call. Some also accept A public phone booth
credit cards, although that Internet and Email
incurs a small extra charge. visitors travelling within the Wi-Fi Internet is widely available
International calls and calls continent (including Iceland, in Portugal. There are still some
to mobile phones are more Norway and Liechtenstein) can internet cafés found in cities,
expensive, but there are always use their mobile data abroad towns and at coastal resorts.
special cards and deals to be without incurring charges, Facilities can be also found at
found. An alternative is to make making it cheaper and easier larger coach and rail terminals
a call from a post office, if you to use your phone abroad than
have neither change or a card. ever before.
You simply step into a free There are four main GSM
Making a
booth, make your call, and pay frequencies (Global System for Telephone Call
the cashier afterwards. The Mobile Communications) in use • To make a call within a
cost per unit is relatively low. around the world, so if you want town or region, or from one
Some cafés and bars still have to guarantee that your phone town or region to another,
a units meter connected to will work, make sure you have a dial the nine-digit number
their phone and calculate the quad-band phone. Tri-band that you require.
cost of your call. They tend to phones from outside the US are • To phone Portugal from
charge more than the post also usually compatible but, abroad dial the Portugal
office but less than many hotels. because the US uses two country code (+ 351), and
When making international frequency bands itself, a US tri- then the nine-digit local
calls and – in particular – calls band phone may only have number that you require.
to mobile phones, it pays to • To call abroad from Portugal,
limited global coverage.
dial 00 then the country
bear in mind that rates are Contact your service provider
code and local number. The
lower off-peak between 9pm for clarification. country code for US and
and 9am and at weekends and To use your mobile phone in Canada is 1; Ireland is 353;
on public holidays. Portugal, it will need to be UK is 44; Australia is 61; and
equipped for GSM network New Zealand is 64.
frequencies 900 and 1800 MHz. • Portugal’s directory
Mobile Phones Note that you may need to get enquiries number is 118
In 2017, the EU ended roaming permission from your network (Portugal enquiries only).
charges meaning European operator as you often have to
Monday to Friday and 9am–6pm on. Furthermore, each floor is

on Saturdays. divided into left, esquerdo (E or
Esqdo), right, direito (D or Dto).
Sending a Letter
First-class mail is known as Newspapers and
correio azul and second-class Magazines
mail is called normal. First-class English-language newspapers
letters are posted in blue printed in Europe are easily
postboxes and second-class available at large newsagents
post in red ones. At post offices on the day of publication,
Internet cafés, popular in Portuguese cities there may be separate slots including the American Inter
for national and international national New York Times. Several
and most large hotels provide mail. There are also express mail other European newspapers and
complimentary Wi-Fi. services called Correio Verde periodicals are also generally on
Post office customers can use and EMS and for valuable sale the same day of home
NetPost, an Internet facility letters, a recorded delivery publication, except following a
payable per hour using a special service (correio registado) is bank holiday. UK papers and
card. Wi-Fi hotspots, found in available. Stamps (selos) can magazines purchased abroad
airports and some shopping be bought from post offices are more expensive, and some
malls, enable users to log in on or from any shop sections, notably weekend
the go, but this facility is not displaying the red and supplements, are not included.
always free. Those using mobile white “Correios” sign, Portuguese daily
phones or laptops should check and also from newspapers include
with their Internet service vending machines. Diário de Notícias
provider (ISP) before departure. These are found in Correios (postal and Público, and the
airport terminals and service) logo leading weekly
in railway stations, as newspaper is Expresso.
Postal Services well as on the streets of large The weekly Portugal News,
The postal service in Portugal is towns. If mailing larger items, published on Friday, is the
known as the “ctt Correios”. It is using an international courier country’s main English-
reasonably efficient: a letter sent company such as FedEx or DHL language publication. Catering
to a country within the EU should may be a better option. Both to the expat population, it
take five to seven days, and a have offices in Lisbon. provides a range of news and
letter sent to the USA or further information about local events.
afield should take about seven Listings magazines available
to ten days. The “Correios” sign Portuguese Addresses include the weekly Time Out
depicts a horse and rider in red. Portuguese addresses often Lisbon, published in Portu-
Post offices are usually open include both the storey of a guese. A special edition, Lisbon
from 9am until 6pm from building and the location within for Visitors, is printed in English.
Monday to Friday. Central post that floor. The ground floor is The Algarve Resident is a widely
offices in major cities have the rásdochão (r/c), first floor distributed English language
different opening times. primeiro andar (1°), the second magazine that carries news
These are 8am–10pm from floor is expressed as 2°, and so and details of upcoming events.
Information on Radio and Television

collection times First-class Portugal’s Postboxes
postbox First-class letters should be posted In Portugal there are two state-
in blue (“Correio Azul”) boxes and owned television channels –
second-class letters in red boxes. RTP1 and RTP2 – and two
privately owned channels – SIC
Second-class and TVI. Most foreign-language
postbox programmes are broadcast in
the original language, with
Portuguese subtitles. Other
European and international
broadcasts are available via
satellite and cable, and include
the usual 24-hour news, music,
sports and feature channels.
The Algarve-based Kiss
FM is the only station that
broadcasts year-round in the
English language.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Portugal, Madeira and Porto Santo, as Lisbon–Faro, but slow on provincial
well as the major Azorean islands, have lines. Trains are inexpensive, especially
airports served by TAP, the national airline, if you are eligible for any of the discounts.
and Azores Airlines (SATA). European Buses are sometimes faster and generally
and other airlines fly to the international offer a wider choice of departures than
airports of Lisbon, Porto, Faro and Funchal, the rail network. Car rental is not cheap
which all get busier during the holiday (pre-arranged package deals are often
season. Charter flights are often the the best value), but it does offer the
cheapest alternative. Portugal’s main- greatest flexibility. Diesel costs less
land rail network is fast and modern on than petrol, while motorway tolls can
busy lines such as Lisbon–Porto and be expensive.
Green Travel Fuel-efficient houseboats can charter flights and low-cost

Portugal’s provincial rail system is be hired to explore the Alqueva airlines, particularly during the
not very extensive, and many reservoir in the Alentejo, the holiday season. Many
railway stations are located some largest man-made lake in companies also fly to Lisbon.
distance away from the towns Europe. This option does away Madeira and Porto Santo are
and villages they serve. A private with the need for a vehicle, and important package-holiday
vehicle is therefore necessary to passengers can travel around destinations, and charter flights
explore much of the country the lake’s 1,200-km (745-mile) are available to Funchal. The
beyond major cities and main shoreline with minimal Azores are becoming a more
tourist zones. Likewise, without disruption to the environment. accessible holiday destination,
your own transport, it is difficult in terms of flights and prices
to travel around Madeira (see opposite).
properly; in the Azores it is Arriving by Air
almost impossible. Buses and Lisbon and, to a lesser
coaches are the alternatives, but extent, Porto have regular Air Fares
off the beaten track they can be scheduled flights from Charter flights are available to
slow and infrequent. European capitals and major Lisbon, Porto, Funchal, Ponta
Cycle tourism is gaining cities, including London, Delgada and Faro, in the
popularity. A designated cycle Paris, Madrid, Rome, Munich, Algarve, particularly during the
route, the 240-km (150-mile) Frankfurt, Zurich and Milan. summer months. Tickets have
Ecovia in the Algarve, connects Most of these are daily, and in
Vila Real de Santo António in many cases there are several
the east with Sagres in the west. daily connections. TAP,
Hikers fare better, since Portugal Portugal’s national carrier,
enjoys an extensive network of currently operates daily flights
tracks, trails and footpaths. The from London (four from Heath-
Instituto Geográfico do Exército row depending on your depart-
sells good large-scale maps. The ure day; two from Gatwick;
country’s leading environmental three from London City Airport)
organization, Quercus, arranges to Lisbon, and two to Oporto
guided walks in parts of the (from Gatwick), plus several
country and is involved in a weekly ones. Faro is the usual
number of ongoing eco projects. Portuguese destination for Lisbon airport terminal
Distance to City Taxi Fare to Public Transport

Airport § Information
Centre City Centre to City Centre
Lisbon 218 413 500 7 km (4 miles) €12–15 @ 20 minutes
Porto 229 432 400 20 km (12 miles) €18 –20 @ 30 minutes
Faro 289 800 800 6 km (4 miles) €10–12 @ 15 minutes
Funchal 291 520 700 18 km (11 miles) €20 –24 @ 30 minutes
Ponta Delgada 296 205 400 3 km (2 miles) €7–8 @ 10 minutes
Horta 292 943 511 10 km (6 miles) €8 –10 @ 15 minutes

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  441
fixed outward and return dates,

but as they are often cheaper
than regular one-way tickets,
many people only use the
outward flight.
Major low-cost airlines also fly
to Faro: Ryanair from Liverpool,
East Midlands, Dublin and
Shannon; easyJet from Gatwick,
Luton, Bristol, Liverpool, TAP Air Portugal aircraft on the tarmac at Lisbon Airport
Glasgow and Belfast; and British
Internal Flights
Airways from London Gatwick, DIRECTORY
London Heathrow, London TAP also flies between major
Stansted and London City. domestic destinations, including Green Travel
The best way to get a cheap Lisbon, Porto, Faro, Funchal and
Ecovia (cycle routes)
ticket is to check websites such Porto Santo Island, and from ∑ ciclovia.pt
as www.cheapflights.com, Lisbon to São Miguel, Terceira
which offer an overview of and Faial in the Azores. TAP also Houseboats
currently available deals. code-shares these destinations ∑ amieiramarina.com
with Azores Airlines (SATA). Instituto Geográfico
Long-Haul Flights do Exército
Tel 218 505 300.
Travellers from North America Package Deals
∑ igeoe.pt
will usually have to change at a Specialist holidays are a popular
European hub. TAP’s only direct option in Portugal. These Quercus
∑ quercus.pt
flights are from Newark, Boston include stays in manor houses
and Miami to Lisbon. United and pousadas (see pp384–5), Arriving by Air
Airlines also runs a daily direct short breaks to Lisbon and
service between Newark and Porto, tennis and golfing British Airways
Lisbon. Delta flies to Lisbon via holidays in the Algarve, and London Tel 0844 4930 787.
Paris (using a partner airline) daily. walking holidays in the Minho. ∑ britishairways.com
South America is better served, These, together with package easyJet
thanks to Portugal’s deals including hotel, ∑ easyjet.com
ties with Brazil: TAP villa or apartment
has direct flights to accommodation, will Ryanair
and from several often include bus transfer ∑ ryanair.com
Brazilian destinations, to your destination from TAP Air Portugal
as well as Caracas the airport. Fly-drive London Tel 218 431 100.
in Venezuala. deals are also available, Lisbon Tel 707 205 700.
There are no direct to the Algarve especially,
flights to mainland Signs at the airport allowing you to spend Long-Haul Flights
Portugal from Canada, for visitors’ facilities less time at the airport
Australia or New dealing with paperwork. Delta
∑ delta.com
Zealand; travellers from these Car hire, when booked as part
countries usually change in London. of a package deal, may be very United Airlines
North Americans visiting the Azores reasonable. A list of companies ∑ united.com
and Madeira will find a greater specializing in these holidays is
choice of direct connections, due available from the Portuguese Internal Flights
to the large Azorean and Madeiran National Tourist Office
Azores Airlines (SATA)
communities in the US and Canada. (Turismo de Portugal).
Ponta Delgada
Tel 707 227 282.
∑ sata.pt
TAP
Lisbon
Tel 707 205 700.
∑ flytap.com
Package Deals
Portuguese National
Tourist Office
11 Belgrave Square, London.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
The spacious check-in area at Porto’s Sá Carneiro Airport
Travelling by Rail
The Portuguese state railway, Comboios de Portugal (CP),
provides an inexpensive, country-wide network. Quality
of service can vary considerably, however, and while
modernization to the system continues, progress is slow.
The Alfa Pendular trains between Lisbon and Porto, via
Coimbra, and Lisbon and Faro, via Tunes, are fast and
efficient, but for longer journeys, such as Lisbon to Évora,
it may be quicker to take the bus.
Travelling by Train
Most areas of Portugal are
served by rail, although the High-speed Alfa Pendular train at
more remote lines, such as Tua Oriente station in Lisbon
to Mirandela, have sadly been
made obsolete due to new road City Stations
Carved arch over entrance to Lisbon’s Rossio links. A bus service covers any Lisbon has four rail termini.
station (see p86) gaps in the system, although it Santa Apolónia station, on
is wise to confirm that the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
Arriving by Train service you require exists before serves the north and all
There are two main routes into setting off. international destinations.
Portugal by train. The first is to There are several categories Oriente, by the former Expo
travel overnight from Austerlitz of train in Portugal. The most site, Parque das Nações, is on
station in Paris, changing at Irún comfortable and quickest is the the same line as Santa Apolónia
on the French-Spanish border, modern Alfa Pendular, which and serves the south. Entre-
then continuing on to the travels between campos, in the
Portuguese border town of Vilar Lisbon, Coimbra city centre, also
Formoso in the north. The train and Porto, and serves the south.
splits near Coimbra, heading Lisbon, Tunes and For more routes
north for Porto and south for Faro. The Rápido south and east,
Lisbon, coming into Santa Inter-Cidades (IC) is Logo for Comboios de cross the river
Apolónia station. The entire only marginally Portugal (taking a ferry from
journey from London to Lisbon, slower, although less Terreiro do Paço)
using the Eurostar to reach Paris, luxurious, and connects most to catch a train from Barreiro.
takes 30 hours. important towns and cities. Trains for Estoril and Cascais
An alternative is to travel Most smaller towns and villages (a 30-minute trip) leave from
on the overnight train from throughout the country are Cais do Sodré station. The
Madrid, passing through served by the Regional and the suburban Fertagus line runs
Marvão and Santarám, then on Inter-Regional lines. These local south across the river to stations
to Lisbon. Travel from Madrid to lines are slower than the Rápido along the Lisbon coast.
Lisbon takes ten hours. The Rail and Alfa Pendular, with fewer Rossio station, near Praça dos
Europe website provides more facilities, but they stop at many Restauradores, serves Sintra and
details on trains and facilities. more stations. stations along the coast as far
north as Figueira da Foz. Care
should be taken on the Lisbon
to Sintra line at night.
Coimbra has two mainline
stations: trains from Lisbon and
Porto stop at Coimbra B, a five-
minute shuttle ride from the
central Coimbra.
Porto has two mainline
stations: international and long-
distance trains come into
Campanhã, to the east of the
city; regional and suburban
trains come into São Bento in
the centre. From here there is a
shuttle service to Campanhã
station. The former rail station at
Exterior of station at Santiago do Cacém with azujelo decoration Trindade is now a metro station.
Time Destination Platform Type of train Other remarks

Buying Tickets
Tickets for Alfa and Rápido (IC)
trains can usually be booked
up to 30 days ahead, although
some services only offer 10-day
advance bookings, so it is
important to check first.
Reservations can be made at
stations or travel agents. If you
want to buy a ticket the day you
travel, arrive early as queues at
Departures board in Santa Apolónia station, Lisbon the ticket office are normal,
especially during peak hours and
Fares those from four to twelve holiday periods. It is important
Fares within Portugal are fairly pay half-fare. There are also that you buy a ticket before
cheap in comparison with discounts for groups, students boarding, otherwise you are
other European countries and and pensioners. liable to be fined on the spot by
there are numerous discounts Visitors are advised to check the conductor. If buying your
available. Children under the the CP website for changing ticket online via CP’s website
age of four travel free, and information regarding fares (in English and Portuguese),
and also for information on note that you’ll have to print
Portugal’s Principal discounted tickets for selected out the ticket in colour to
Railway Lines groups. First-class travel on present it with your passport.
Portugal’s trains is 40 per cent
Tui more expensive
Valença
do Minho
than second class,
and second-
Viana do
Castelo BRAGA
class travel, Sign at ticket office showing where to buy
Mirandela
while fairly advance tickets
Guimarães
Amarante Vila basic on
Real some lines, is
PORTO Pocinho
Peso da usually sufficiently
Espinho Régua comfortable.
Families can save Sign at ticket office showing where to buy
Vilar money by using the tickets on day of travel
Mangualde Formoso
Aveiro bilhete família,
Agueda Gouveia Madrid
which is available Timetables
Guarda
in two different types. Main stations in Portugal
Covilhã
Figueira
COIMBRA The long-distance travel provide a complete rail
da Foz Serpins option gives a 50 per timetable, the Guia do Horário
Pombal Castelo
cent discount for bet- Oficial, which details all routes
Branco ween three and nine for Alfa Pendular, IC, Inter-
Leiria Tomar family members on two Regional and Regional trains.
Marvão
Beirã networks on Saturdays. A section in Portuguese only
Caldas da Cáceres
Rainha Abrantes The city option offers has details of the tickets and
Santarém
discounts for travel in discounts that are available.
Portalegre
Lisbon and Porto on The CP website displays all
Sintra Saturdays, Sundays travel information including
Elvas Mérida and public holidays. a countrywide timetable.
Cascais
Barreiro Vendas Novas There are also two
Pinhal
LISBON Novo types of Interrail pass avail- DIRECTORY
Setúbal Alcácer able to European Union
do Sal
residents under 30 (although Railway Stations
there are also adult and
senior rates). The Global Comboios de Portugal
Beja
Pass is valid for 30 differ- Tel 707 210 220 or +351 707 210
Ourique ent countries, including 220 (outside Portugal).
Portugal, and prices for second- ∑ cp.pt
class travel start at €305 (2nd
Class) for 5 days of travel over Coimbra/Faro/Lisbon/Porto
V. R. de Santo
Silves António a 10-day period. The Portugal All stations served by:
Portimão Tavira
FARO Pass costs from €49 for 3 days’ Tel 707 210 220 or +351 707 210
Lagos
Albufeira
travel in Portugal only over a 220 (outside Portugal).
1-month period.
Driving in Portugal
Portugal’s road network includes an expanding motorway
system, but some older main roads may be in need of repair,
while minor roads can be very rough and tortuous. Traffic
jams are a problem in and near cities. Never attempt driving
in the rush hour, and be wary of reckless Portuguese drivers.
Always carry your passport, licence, logbook or rental
contract, and car insurance. Failure to produce these A steep road near Gouveia in the Serra da
documentos if the police stop you will incur a fine. It’s Estrela (see pp224–5)
obligatory for drivers and passengers to don green
avoiding motorway tolls, and
fluorescent vests following a breakdown or an accident. they can be slow as a result.
In addition, drivers must carry a collapsible warning triangle Always fill up with petrol
in the trunk to be used in the event of such an emergency. in town before setting off,
because petrol stations can
be scarce in remote areas.
Arriving by Car and mainland Portugal. The best road maps are those
The quickest route is to cross Similarly, there are no ferry published by Michelin or the
the French–Spanish border at services from the mainland Portuguese motoring
Irún and then take the E80 via to the Azores. organization, the ACP
Valladolid to Vilar Formoso in Driving time may also be (Automóvel Clube de Portugal).
Portugal. To go to Lisbon or reduced by using the Motorail
the Algarve, turn off at Burgos, link from Paris Gare d’Austerlitz
head for Cáceres and then on to Lisbon, a twice-weekly Rules of the Road
to Badajoz. service. Drivers load their cars Traffic drives on the right-
Taking the car ferry to one day, travel by passenger hand side, continental rules
northern Spain from the UK train the next, and pick up of the road apply and the
reduces time on the road, but their cars on the third day. international sign system is
crossings are extremely long: Check the Autotrain website used. Unless there are signs
24 hours to Santander and for more information. to the contrary, traffic from
35 hours to Bilbao. Brittany the right has priority at squares,
Ferries travels to Santander, crossroads and junctions.
leaving from Plymouth once a Travelling Around by Car Cars on roundabouts travel
week and Portsmouth twice Major roads include EN (Estrada anticlockwise, and have priority
a week throughout the year. Nacional) roads, many of which over waiting traffic. There is
Brittany Ferries also operates have been upgraded to either very little advance warning
a route from Portsmouth to IP (Itinerário Principal) or IC of pedestrian crossings.
Bilbao twice a week. There are (Itinerário Complementar) It is compulsory to use a
currently no car ferry services roads. IP roads are much seatbelt, and the blood-alcohol
operating between Madeira used by heavy goods lorries limit is 0.05 per cent. Speed
limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in
towns and 90 kph (55 mph)
on other roads, and 120 kph
(74 mph) on motorways.
Breaking the speed limit incurs
an on-the-spot fine, as does
talking on a mobile phone
while driving.
Motorways and Tolls

Portugal’s expanding motor-
way network (see map on
back endpaper) links Lisbon
with Braga and Guimarães in
the north, and Porto with
Amarante and the Algarve
in the south. Another section
goes from Lisbon to Leiria,
and a cross-country stretch
runs east to the Spanish border
Traffic queueing to pass over the Ponte 25 de Abril, Lisbon at Elvas.
Apart from some sections Breakdown

near Lisbon and Porto, all Services
motor ways have two lanes. There is a recip-
Tolls are payable on motorways rocal breakdown
and on Lisbon’s bridges – the service between
Ponte 25 de Abril and the the ACP and other
Ponte Vasco da Gama. Do organizations. To
not use the Via Verde (green qualify, drivers
lane) at tolls; this is only for should take out
drivers who subscribe to an European cover
electronic system allowing with their own
them to pay automatically. organization. On The Guadiana International Bridge on the Portugal-
Visit www.portugaltolls.com the motorway, use Spain border
for more information. the SOS phones
and state that you are entitled Peso do Régua to Pinhão in
to ACP cover. For drivers the Douro.
Parking without cover, most towns have For breathtaking mountain
Finding a parking space in a garage with breakdown lorry. scenery in Madeira, head
cities can be difficult. Most northwest out of Funchal,
parking spaces in Lisbon and and follow the narrow hairpin
Porto are now pay-and-display Car Hire ER107 to Curral das Freiras, in
during the working week. A Car hire agencies may be found the heart of the island.
simpler and safer, if more at Lisbon, Faro and Porto The R1-1 coastal road
expensive, alternative is one of airports and in main towns. encircling Pico, in the Azores,
the many underground car Local firms usually offer better allows you to take in both a
parks. Follow the blue rates than international ones, stark, majestic landscape and
signs with a white P. but check the condition of the the Atlantic Ocean.
car and the insurance coverage
carefully. You must have a DIRECTORY
valid driving licence, be over
the age of 21 and have Arriving by Car
held a licence for at least Autotrain
one year. ∑ uk.voyages-sncf.eu
Brittany Ferries
Great Drives Tel 0330 159 7000.
∑ brittany-ferries.co.uk
Signs in Lisbon for the coast, south via the A particularly scenic drive is the
Ponte 25 de Abril, and zoo EN1063 from Foz de Odeleite in Breakdown Services
the eastern Algarve, which hugs
Petrol (gasoline) the banks of the River Guadiana ACP
Petrol is relatively expensive, all the way to the pretty Tel 808 222 222 or 916 767 227.
and generally the same price riverside village of Alcoutim.
countrywide. Diesel (gasóleo) The N255 from Reguengos de Car Hire
is cheaper than petrol. Some Monsaraz to Moura skirts the Auto Jardim, Faro
pumps are self-service and Alentejo’s Barragem de Alqueva Tel 289 580 500.
colour-coded: green for un- lake. To explore port wine ∑ auto-jardim.com
leaded and black for diesel. country, take the N222 from
Budget, Lisbon
Tel 218 435 550 (airport).
Road Numbers The Bragança-Porto road is now the IP4, part ∑ budget.com.pt
motorway (A4) and part dual carriageway.
Roads in Portugal may Budget, Porto
have up to three Tel 229 436 900 (airport).
different numbers. The road’s ∑ budget.com.pt
original EN
Thanks to a building and Europcar, Faro
number
upgrading programme, (Estrada Tel 289 891 650 or 289 818 726.
former EN or Estrada Nacional). ∑ europcar.com
Nacional roads can also
Hertz, Lisbon & Porto
be IP (Itinerário Principal)
Tel 808 202 038.
roads. A road with an The E82 is
an interna- ∑ hertz.com
E (Estrada Europeia)
tional route, Guerin
number indicates ending in
that it is also a direct Tel 707 272 007.
Spain near
international route. Valladolid. ∑ guerin.pt
Travelling by Coach from Lisbon to Évora, a cruise

on the Tagus and a trip lasting
Since the privatization of Portugal’s bus network, the three days to the Algarve.
Rodoviária Nacional (RN), coach companies have multiplied, Pick-up points are at the main
and some routes are now even run by foreign companies. hotels or central locations. It is
Regional operators compete with each other to offer better also possible to arrange longer
trips to areas of historical or
services to more destinations, and as a result, many coach
scenic interest.
journeys, such as Lisbon to the Algarve, are quicker and often In the Algarve, there are
more comfortable than the equivalent train journeys. Coaches frequent coach trips to places of
also cover the increasing number of defunct sections of interest such as Loulé, Silves and
railway, such as Mirandela–Bragança and Beja–Moura. Monchique, the southwest and
the River Guadiana, and further
afield to Évora and Lisbon.
Tourist offices, hotels and travel
agencies can help with these,
and pick-up points are the main
coastal hotels.
DIRECTORY
London
Eurolines
Victoria Coach Station, 164
Buckingham Palace Road,
A Rodonorte coach, which covers the far north of the country London. Tel 0871 781 8178.
∑ eurolines.co.uk
Getting to Portugal Information on routes and
by Coach prices is available from tourist Northern Portugal
Travelling to Portugal by coach is offices and travel agencies.
Rede Expressos
cheap but very time-consuming.
Rodoviário no Porto Campo 24
Eurolines runs a weekly summer de Agosto, Porto. Tel 707 223 344.
service from Victoria Coach ∑ rede-expressos.pt
Station in London to Porto. Coach Tours
Passengers change in Area Suco Bus, coach and minibus tours Renex
in central Spain, and the journey around Lisbon and Porto are R Campo Mártires da Pátria 37,
Porto. Tel 222 003 395.
takes 34 hours in total. The plentiful. Cityrama runs sight-
∑ renex.pt
London-to-Lisbon service, which seeing tours of Lisbon and its
runs all year, takes even longer. coast, and day trips to sights Rodonorte
Passengers change in Paris and such as Batalha, Sintra and Rua Dom
spend two nights on the coach. Mafra. It also offers a night-time António Valente da Fonseca 104,
tour of the city, taking in the Vila Real. Tel 259 340 710.
∑ rodonorte.pt
Jerónimos monastery and then
Travelling dinner with a fado show. From
Around by Coach Lisbon
Porto, it runs tours of the Minho
Coach operators in Portugal and Douro valleys, and a six-day Cityrama/Gray Line
include Renex, which links Faro, trip to Lisbon. Gray Line, part of Avenida João XXI 78e, 1000-304
Lisbon, Porto and Braga, and EVA, Cityrama, also offers day trips Lisbon. Tel 213 191 090.
which focuses on the Algarve. ∑ cityrama.pt
Rodoviária de Lisboa connects Renex
Lisbon with Estremadura. In Vila Gare do Oriente.
Real, Rodonorte covers the Tel 218 956 836. ∑ renex.pt
extreme north, and Rede
Rodoviária de Lisboa
Expressos, based in Porto, covers Terminal Rodoviária de Sete Rios,
the inland areas of Portugal. Praça Marechal Humberto
The Terminal Rodoviária de Delgado, Estrada das Laranjeiras,
Sete Rios, located in Lisbon’s Sete Rios. Tel 213 529 883.
Sete Rios district, is the city’s
main bus station and the hub Algarve
for the main intercity coach
EVA
routes of Portugal. In Porto,
Avenida da República 5, Faro.
the main departure and arrival
Tel 289 899 700.
points is at Rodoviário no A Cityrama hop-on hop-off sightseeing ∑ eva-bus.com
Porto Campo 24 de Agosto. tour bus in Lisbon
Travelling Around the Islands On the smaller islands it is

usually easy to hitch a lift.
On the rocky, mountainous islands of Madeira and the To enjoy the Azores on foot, ask
Azores, the pace of transport is necessarily slow, and some your taxi driver to drop you off at
places are only accessible on foot. Driving needs care and the start of a route and pick you
up further on. Try to obtain a
patience, and you may find organized trips by coach or taxi detailed map of the Azores before
are more relaxing and rewarding. arrival. Some routes are listed in
specialist guidebooks sold locally.
Around Madeira
DIRECTORY
Companies such as
Intertours and Blandy Madeira
organize coach trips. Taxis
can be hired, but car Blandy
Avenida Zarco 2, Funchal.
rental is far more flexible
Tel 291 200 660.
(see p445). Book ahead ∑ blandytravel.com
and allow plenty of time
The Porto Santo Line ferry in Funchal harbour for travel: roads are steep Intertours
and tortuous. Motor way Avenida Arriaga 30, Funchal.
Island Hopping extensions along the south coast Tel 291 208 900.
Aero VIP flies several times a day have cut journey times ∑ intertours.com.pt
between Funchal and Porto considerably, but many places
Azores
Santo in the Madeira group; on are still accessible only on foot.
the Azores, flights are operated Agência Açoreana de
by SATA (see p441). Flights to Viagens
Flores and Corvo are often Around the Azores Rua de Lisboa, Edifício Varela, Ponta
disrupted by bad weather, Cars can be hired on all the Azores Delgada, São Miguel. Tel 296 301
so for extensive island hopping except Corvo, from firms such as 840. ∑ agenciaacoreanade
it is a good idea to insure Ilha Verde Rent-A-Car. Charges viagens.pt
against delays. SATA flights are reasonable, and the roads Ilha Verde Rent-A-Car
should be confirmed at least are precipitous, so it may be more Campo São Francisco 19, Ponta
72 hours before take-off. economical to explore the smaller Delgada. Tel 296 304 800.
Porto Santo Line runs a daily islands by taxi. For day trips, ∑ ilhaverde.com
car ferry service between agree a price, itinerary and return
Madeira and Porto Santo. time before setting off. You Ferry Services
Regular car ferry services should also pay for the driver’s
Atlanticoline
connect all the islands of the lunch. Check the weather first: if Tel 707 201 572/296 304 311.
Azores except Corvo, which is clouds conceal the mountains, ∑ atlanticoline.pt
served by passenger ferry, and there is no point setting out.
are run by Atlanticoline. It’s also Tourist offices can supply Madeira Wind Birds
possible to explore the waters information on coach trips by Tel 917 777 441.
∑ madeirawindbirds.com
surrounding Madeira’s Ilhas Agência Açoreana de Viagens
Desertas by boat, then join a and others, and on boat trips Porto Santo Line
guided tour on land. Madeira along the coast. Bicycles can Tel 291 210 300.
Wind Birds offers day-trips and be hired, but the mountainous ∑ portosantoline.pt
cruises to Ilha Desertas. terrain makes cycling difficult.
The Azores: Inter-Island

Flights and Ferries
Corvo
Key
Graciosa
Flight routes
Flores Ferry routes
São Jorge Terceira
Faial
Pico São Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Santa Maria
Travelling in Lisbon A variety of funiculars offer

wonderful views over Lisbon
and Porto and ascend from river level up
to the Bairro Alto: the Elevador
The interesting parts of most towns and cities in Portugal – da Bica starts near Cais do Sodré
generally the centró histórico – are small and eminently station and the Elevador da
walkable, if you have both the time and inclination. In hilly Glória goes from Praça dos
Restauradores. The lifts in the
cities such as Porto and, particularly, Lisbon, the steep climbs Elevador de Santa Justa take
can be avoided by using a choice of options such as visitors to a café at the top of
centenarian tram, funicular or lift. Other cities are well served the Bairro Alto (see p88). The
by buses, trolleybuses and taxis. Transport of any kind is best Elevador da Lavra, can be taken
avoided during rush hour (8–10am and 5:30–7:30pm). from Rua das Portas de Santo
Antão, which climbs to the
Hospital São José.
Buses Bus Tours
Buses are a practical way In Porto, Cityrama runs city
to travel round and see the tours at least twice a week, and Lisbon Metro
main cities, and Lisbon has more often in summer. They Lisbon’s Metro network has four
an extensive network. When include a visit to a port lodge with lines, mainly on the north–south
boarding the bus, enter at tasting (see p253). Tickets are sold axis, and is divided into zones.
the front door and exit by the at the Cityrama office, and the It is the most efficient way to
central door. tourist office in Praça Dom João I, get around, especially during
Tickets may be bought where the buses depart. Cityrama rush hour (8–10am and 5:30–
from the driver on boarding also operates sightseeing tours 7:30pm). The Metro operates
and must be clipped by the in Lisbon, Madeira and the between 6:30am and 1am.
(obliterador) machine near Azores, however, they have no Tickets are bought from
the driver. However, it is office, but the tourist office can machines or ticket offices at
much cheaper to buy tickets take bookings and enquiries. the station and are sold as
beforehand, usually for two reusable Viva Viagem cards.
journeys. Travelling without a Each card will expire after one
valid ticket, if discovered by Trams and Funiculars year and has an initial cost of
roaming inspectors, will incur Fun ways of exploring Lisbon €0.50. Cards must be validated
a hefty fine. are by tram (eléctrico), funicular on entering the platform area
Every bus (autocarro) must or lift (both elevador). Porto has by passing them over an
display its destination (destino) two short tram routes along electronic scanner to open
on a sign located at the front and near the waterfront, and a
and most bus stops (paragens) funicular, the Elevador dos
have information for passengers Guindais. In Lisbon, Carris runs
about the route the bus a “hill tour” (Linha das Colinas)
will take. by antique tramcar.
Viva Viagem card
Tickets in Lisbon
Bus, tram, metro and funicular
tickets are all the same and
can be bought from any Carris
kiosk. The basic multitrip Carris
ticket is for two journeys and
Antique red tram operating the Linha do Tejo tour in Lisbon valid for an unlimited number
of days. The other option is a
ticket valid for 24 hours. The
Metro has its own system, and
tickets cost €1.45 for one
journey on the whole network.
There are also passes known
as Viva Viagem cards, as well
as combined Carris/Metro
1-day tickets for €6.15
(includes €0.50 cost of Viva
Viagem card). This card can be
recharged at ticket machines.
No.15, Lisbon’s long, streamlined tram
The reusable DIRECTORY

Andante Gold
Card is a Bus and Tram Tours
straightforward Carris, Lisbon
and convenient Rua 1° de Maio 93,
choice for visitors. Santo Amaro, Lisbon.
In addition Tel 213 613 000 (9am–5pm
to the initial Mon–Fri). ∑ carris.pt
cost of €6, the
card can then Radio Taxis
be charged
Autocoope (Lisbon)
according to how
Tel 217 932 756.
many zones will
∑ cooptaxis.pt
Lisbon’s Elevador da Glória ascending to the Bairro Alto be crossed. The
Porto Card for 1, Raditáxis (Porto)
the gate, indicated by a green 2 or 3 days gives access to the Tel 225 073 900.
light. Exiting the station requires entire public transport network ∑ raditaxis.pt
the same procedure. and entrance to many top
When purchasing your cards attractions. Cards are validated
Metro
you should always keep the by scanning machines. Lisbon call centre
receipt as you may need to Tel 213 500 115 (Mon–Fri).
present it when changing the ∑ metrolisboa.pt
card, or if it is damaged. Fines Taxis
Porto head office
for travelling without a valid Taxis are relatively inexpensive, Tel 225 081 000.
card are severe, so make sure it and if you share the cost, it ∑ metrodPorto.pt
is in a safe and accessible place. sometimes works out cheaper
than a bus. A green light
indicates that the taxi is
Porto Metro available; two green lights mean
Porto’s Metro network is in fact a that the higher rate is being
light railway system with five charged (10pm–6am daily,
lines that extend well beyond weekends and public holidays),
the city centre, through several one that the normal rate
zones. The hub is Trindade applies. From behind, the lights
station, which is linked to the glow counter-intuitively red. rank is €2.50. A telephone
airport. The Metro operates Occupied taxis have their callout from a firm such as
between 6am and 1am. rooftop “taxi” signs switched Autocoope costs an extra
Smart tickets (Andante Cards) on. A flat rate of €1.60 is charged €0.80. The meter should
can be bought from stations for any luggage placed in the always be used, although the
and at Andante shops and trunk.The starting rate for a taxi driver might agree on a price
kiosks for an initial cost of €0.65. hailed in the street or at a taxi beforehand for long trips.
Lisbon’s Metro System

Ameixoeira Encarnaçáo
Reboleira Aeroporto
Odivelas Senhor Moscavide
Amadora Este Roubado Lumiar
Oriente
Alfornelos
Quinta Cabo
Campo das Mouras
Pontinha Carnide Grande Ruivo
Colégio Telheiras
Cidade Alvalade Olivais
Militar/Luz Universitária
Alto dos Entre Chelas
Moinhos Laranjeiras Roma
Campos
Jardim Zoolôgico Bela Vista
Campo Areeiro
São Pequeno
Praça de Sebastião Olaias
Espanha
Saldanha Alameda
Key Picoas Arroios
Parque
Linha azul Marquês de Pombal
Anjos
Linha amarela
Rato Avenida Intendente
Linha verde
Martim Moniz
Linha vermelha
Restauradores Rossio
Linha azul extension Terreiro Santa
do Paço Apolónia
Interchange station Cais do Sodré
Baixa-Chiado
450  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Afonso Henriques (Afonso I), Alcântara, Battle of 54
main entries. King (cont.) Alcobaça 15, 148, 184–5
Guimarães 286 history 47, 49
A Lamego 256 restaurants 403
Abbeys see Monasteries and Leiria 187 tombs of Pedro I and Inês de
convents Minho 269 Castro 48–9, 185
Abd al Rahman 46 Óbidos 181 Alcochete 24, 155, 169
Abrantes 194 Palácio Nacional de Sintra Alcoforado, Mariana, Lettres
restaurants 403 165 Portugaises 317
Abrantes, Marquês de 106 São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) Alcoutim 337
Absolutists 41 74 Aldeamento Turístico (tourist
Addresses (house numbering) Sé (Lisbon) 76 villages) 382
439 tomb 208, 211 Alegrete 300
Admission charges 431 Afonso Sanches, Dom 278 Alenquer 199
Adoration of the Magi (Grão Africa Alenquer, Pêro de 199
Vasco) 52 Portuguese colonies 58–9, Alentejo 22, 296–319
Afonso I, King see Afonso 60–61 climate 39
Henriques voyages of discovery 52–3 hotels 393
Afonso II, King 42, 175 Age of Absolutism 56–7 map 298–9
Afonso III, King 42, 48 Age of Discovery 25, 28, 52–3 restaurants 409–11
deposes Sancho II 48 Monument to the Discoveries Romans in the Alentejo 311
Estremoz 306 (Lisbon) 110–11 A Tour of Medieval Portugal
Faro 48, 332 Agroturismo 382 11, 16
Leiria 187 Água, Museu da (Lisbon) 122 travel 299
Monsaraz 313 Águas Livres Aqueduct vernacular architecture 26–7
Vila Nova de Gaia 253 (Lisbon) 56–7, 126 what to eat 294–5
Afonso IV, King 42 Air travel 440–41 wines 32–3
murder of Inês de Castro 185 internal flights 441 Alexander the Great 120, 121
Porto de Mós 186 travelling around the islands Alfama (Lisbon) 12, 70–81
tomb 76 447 area map 71
war with Pedro I 49 Airports 440 hotels 386
Afonso V, King 42 Alandroal 306 restaurants 398
captures Arzila 50 restaurants 409 street-by-street map 72–3
marriage 181 Alani 45 Alfândega Velha (Funchal) 351
Monument to the Discoveries Albergarias (inns) 380 Alfonso VI, King of León and
(Lisbon) 111 Albernõa, restaurants 410 Castile 47
portrait of 101 Albert, Cardinal-Archduke of Algar do Carvão 371
Afonso VI, King 43, 55 Austria 54 Algarve 21, 320–37
Palácio Nacional de Sintra 165 Albert, Prince Consort 167 beaches 292–3
Afonso, Dom (son of João I) 282 Albufeira 21, 323, 329 climate 39
Afonso, Jorge 174 hotels 393 festivals 34, 36
Apparition of Christ to the restaurants 411 flowers of the Western
Virgin 64 Albufeira, Lagoa do 169 Algarve 325
Afonso Henriques (Afonso I), Albuquerque, Afonso de golf 426–7
King 42 captures Goa 50, 51 history 48
Alcobaça 148, 184 cenotaph (Lisbon) 75 hotels 393–5
Battle of Ourique 46, 47 Praça Afonso de Albuquerque map 322–3
Battle of São Mamede 47 (Lisbon) 104, 105 One Week in Southern
Cárquere 255 Albuquerque, Brás de 75 Portugal 11, 17
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) Albuquerque, Dom João de regional food 295
163 206 restaurants 411–13
Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) Alcácer do Sal 175 travel 323
80–81 hotels 387 vernacular architecture 26–7
Coimbra 208, 210 restaurants 401 Algarve Nature Week 34
declares independence 41 Alcácer-Quibir, Battle of 51 Alijó 14, 259
defeats Moors 46, 47, 310 Alcañices Treaty 221 restaurants 406
GENERAL INDEX  451
Aljezur 17, 324 Anne of Hertford 356 Arrábida, Serra da see Serra da
Aljubarrota, Battle of 50, 148, Antiga Confeitaria de Belém Arrábida
286 (Lisbon) 12, 105 Arraiolos 307
Batalha 188, 189 Antigo Paço Episcopal (Braga) carpets 417
All Saints’ Day 36, 37 282 Arrifana, beach 292, 324
Almancil 330 Antique shops 129, 419 The Arrival of the Relics of Santa
hotels 393–4 António, Lino 256 Auta at the Church of Madre
restaurants 411 Antony of Padua, St (Santo de Deus 29
Almançor, River 307 António) 76, 327 Arruda, Diogo de 28, 192–3
Almeida 221, 222 Museu Antoniano (Lisbon) 77 Arruda, Francisco de
hotels 389 Santo António (Lagos) 327 Aqueduto da Água de Prata
restaurants 404 Santo António à Sé (Lisbon) (Évora) 311
Almeida, António de 56 77 Aqueduto da Amoreira
Almeida, Leopoldo de 87 Apart-hotels 380 (Elvas) 303
Almeida family 194 Apartamentos turísticos 382 Manueline architecture 28
Almeirim 196 Apparition of Christ to the Virgin Nossa Senhora da Assunção
restaurants 403 (Afonso) 64 (Elvas) 303
Almendres 298 Aquariums Art see Artists by name;
Almograve 318 Museu Oceanográfico Museums and galleries
Almohad dynasty 47, 48 (Portinho da Arrábida) 173 Arunce, King 215
Almondo, River 195 Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon) Arzila 50
Almoravid dynasty 47 12, 123 Assumption Day 37, 233
Almourol, Castelo de 195 Aqueduto da Água de Prata Atlantic Coastline, A Tour of the
Alpiarça 196 (Évora) 311 10, 15
Alte 17, 329 Aqueduto das Águas Livres ATMs 436
hotels 394 (Lisbon) 56–7, 126 Augustus, Emperor 45, 214
Alte, River 329 Aqueduto da Amoreira (Elvas) Autódromo Internacional do
Alter do Chão 302 303 Algarve 328
Alter Real horses 302 Aquinas, St Thomas 332 Autumn 36
Alto Alentejo, climate 39 Arabs 46 Avante! (Seixal) 36
Alto das Caravelas 261 Arade, River 328 Ave, River 254
Alto da Memória 371 Araújo, José Ferreira 213 Aveiras, Conde de 106
Alto do Trevim 215 Archaeology see Museums and Aveiro 10, 15, 31, 200, 201,
Alto do Velão 261 galleries; Prehistoric Portugal; 206–7
Álvares, Baltasar 54 Roman Empire festivals 35, 37
Álvares Fagundes, João 280 Architecture hotels 390
Alves, Diogo 126 azulejos 25, 30–31 restaurants 404
Alvito 313 Gothic 51 Aveiro, Ria de 202, 206, 207
restaurants 410 Manueline 25, 28–9, 108–9 Avelar, Dom Francisco Gomes
Alvito, Barão de 313 triangular houses of Santana do 332
Alvor 327 357 Avenida (Lisbon) see Baixa and
Amarante 14, 254–5 vernacular 26–7 Avenida
festivals 35 Arco de Almedina (Coimbra) Avenida da Liberdade (Lisbon)
hotels 391 209 12, 86
restaurants 406 Arco da Rua Augusta (Lisbon) Avis, House of 42, 50–51, 189
Amarante, Carlos 284 89 Alandroal 306
Ambulances 434, 435 Arcos de Valdevez 273 Almeirim 196
Amélia, Queen 106, 110 restaurants 408 Avis, João of see João I
Amieira 16, 313 Arganil 215 Azambuja, Diogo de 205
Al Andalus 46 Armação de Pera, restaurants Azenhas do Mar 159
Andrade, António de 54 411 Azores 22, 364–77
Anes, Gonçalo 220 Armed Forces Movement climate 38
Anes, Pêro 352 (MFA) 61, 89 discovery of 52
Angola 59, 61 Armona 335 festivals 34, 374
Angra do Heroísmo 367, 370–71 Arouca 204 golf 427
Anjos 370 Arouce, River 214 Holy Spirit festivals 372
Azores (cont.) Bars and clubs 421 Belém (Lisbon) 102–13

hotels 395 Lisbon 131 area map 103
In Pursuit of the Whale Bartholomew, St 49 restaurants 400
374–5 Basílica see Churches street-by-street map 104–5
maps 18, 340–41, 366–7 Basquiat, Michel 110 Belém, Torre de (Lisbon) 28, 64,
restaurants 414–15 Basto, Terras de 287 112
time zone 432 Bastos (prehistoric statues) Belém monstrance 28, 51, 101
travel 367, 447 287 Beliche, beach 292, 326
Volcanic Islands Rising from Batalha 10, 15, 148, 188–9 Belmonte 223
the Ocean Bed 344–5 history 51 hotels 390
whaling 374 Manueline architecture 29 restaurants 404
windmills 27 restaurants 403 Belvederes see Miradouro
Azulejos (ceramic tiles) 25, Battle of Ourique (Colaço) 31 Benedictines, São Bento (Santo
30–31 Beaches Tirso) 254
Azzolini, Giacomo 106 Albufeira 329 Berardo Collection Museum
Algarve 292–3 (Lisbon) 110
B Cascais 168 Berbers 46
Baçal, Abbot of 265 Colares 159 Berlenga Islands 10, 15, 180
Bacon, Francis 110 Costa da Caparica 169 Bernardes, António de Oliveira
Baía de São Lourenço 370 Ericeira 159 Christ Teaching in the Temple
Bairrada Estoril 168 (Misericórdia, Évora) 30
what to eat 152–3 Faro 288–9 Convento da Esperança
wines 32–3 Figueira da Foz 205 (Ponta Delgada) 368
Bairro Alto and Estrela (Lisbon) Guincho 168 Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
12, 90–101 Ilha de Tavira 336 (Peniche) 180
area map 91 Lagos 327 Bernardes, Policarpo de
hotels 387 Nazaré 186 Oliveira
restaurants 399–400 Peninsula de Tróia 175 Castelo de São Filipe
street-by-street map 92–3 Porto Santo 363 (Setúbal) 30
Baixa (Porto) 243 Póvoa de Varzim 278 Misericórdia church
Baixa and Avenida (Lisbon) 67, Praia de Mira 205 (Alandroal) 306
82–9 Sagres 326 Misericórdia church (Chaves)
area map 83 São Pedro de Muel 187 262
hotels 386–7 Serra da Arrábida 173 Museu de Arte e Arquelogia
Restauradores street-by- Sesimbra 172 (Viana do Castelo) 281
street 84–5 Sines 318 Biblioteca Joanina (Coimbra
restaurants 398–9 Viana do Castelo 281 University) 212
Baixo Alentejo, climate 39 Vila do Bispo 325 Birds
Balcões 357 Vila Nova de Milfontes 318 Berlenga Islands 180
Baleal 180 Zambujeira do Mar 319 Birds of the Tagus and Sado
hotels 388 see also Praia estuaries 175
Ballet 420, 421 Beatriz, Dona (wife of Afonso Dovecotes of Montesinho 266
Bandarra (Gonçalo Anes) 220 IV) 76 Reserva Natural do Estuário
Banking 436–7 Beatriz, Queen of Castile 48 do Tejo 169
Barbarian invasions 45 Beatty, Hugh 327 Reserva Natural do Paúl de
Barbizon School 95, 121 Beckford, William 161, 171 Boquilobo 195
Barcelos 279 Beco das Cruzes (Lisbon) 73 Water birds of the Ria
festivals 34, 232 Beer 397 Formosa 335
hotels 392 Beiras 22, 200–27 see also Wildlife
legend of Barcelos cock 279 climate 39 Bisalhães 261
market 417 hotels 389–90 Biscoitos 371
restaurants 408 map 202–3 Black Death 49
Barcelos, Count of 257 restaurants 404–6 Blandy family 353
Barragem de Bravura 327 travel 203 Boa Ventura 348
Barragem do Castelo de Bode vernacular architecture 26–7 Boavista (Porto) 243
194 Beja 11, 16, 290, 317 Boca do Inferno 168
hotels 389 hotels 393 Bocage, Manuel Barbosa du 87,
Barragem de Valeira 259 restaurants 410 174
Barrancos 316 Belasco, Ângelo 94 Boelhe 254
Boitac, Diogo Brasileira, Café (Lisbon) 92, 95 Cabral, Gonçalo Velho 368
Batalha 29 Bravães 273 Cabral, Pedro Álvares
Ermida de São Jerónimo Bravura dam 322 Belmonte 223
(Lisbon) 113 Brazil 50 discovery of Brazil 52
Igreja de Jesus (Setúbal) 174 discovery of 41, 52 Monument to the Discoveries
Igreja Matriz (Golegã) 196 Dutch in 54, 55 (Lisbon) 111
Igreja do Populo (Caldas da gold discovered in 55 tomb 197
Rainha) 181 independence 58 Cabral, Sacadura 60
Manueline architecture 28 Breakdown services 445 Cabral family 223
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Brejoeira Palace 269 Cabril, River 261
(Lisbon) 108 Bridges Cacela Velha 323, 336
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 60, Cachorro 375
Sé (Guarda) 223 116 Caesar, Julius 197, 317
A Bola (newspaper) 25 Ponte de Dom Luís I (Porto) Caetano, Marcelo 61, 89
Bolo rei 37, 233 13, 248–9 Café Brasileira (Lisbon) 92, 95
Bom Jesus do Monte 10, 14, 56, Ponte Marechal Carmona 198 Café Ritz (Funchal) 350
230, 284–5 Roman Bridge (Ponte de Cafés 397
hotels 392 Lima) 278 Cakes 37, 233
pilgrimage to 34 Brissos 312 Cake shops 397
Book shops 128–9 Buçaco 149, 216–17 Calatrava, Santiago 123
Border Castles Tour (Beiras) 222 hotels 390 Caldas do Gerês 276
Bosch, Hieronymus, The map 216–17 Caldas de Monchique 17, 325
Temptations of St Antony 100 restaurants 404 Caldas da Rainha 181
Botelho Mourão, António José Buçaco, Battle of 58, 217 hotels 389
260 Budget accommodation 382, restaurants 403
Botero, Fernando 117 383 Caldeira (Faial) 376
Boticas 262 Budget flights 441 Caldeira de Guilherme Moniz
Boucher, François 121 Bull-running 371
Braga 10, 14, 269, 282–3 Terceira 370 Caldeira das Sete Cidades 345
festivals 34, 232 Vila Franca de Xira 198 Caldeirão, Lagoa do 377
hotels 392 Bullfighting 25, 150–51, 421 Caldeiras das Furnas 341, 344,
map 283 Campo Pequeno (Lisbon) 369
restaurants 408 122 Calderas 345
Bragança 231, 264–5 Coruche 198 Calheta 362, 373
citadel 264–5 Santarém 197 Camacha 354
festivals 37 Bureaux de change 436 Câmara, João Gonçalves de 352
hotels 391 Burgundy, Henry of see Henry Câmara, Simão Gonçalves de
restaurants 406 of Burgundy 352
Bragança, Afonso, 1st Duke of Burgundy, House of 42 Câmara de Lobos 363
264, 305 Buses restaurants 413
Barcelos 279 bus tours 448, 449 Câmara Municipal (Funchal) 351
birth 223 in cities 448 Câmara Municipal (Sintra) 162
Paço dos Duques for the disabled 431–2, 433 Cambridge, Earl of 313
(Guimarães) 286 Bussaco Palace Hotel 29, 32, 217 Caminha 272
Bragança, Catherine of see Bust of St Catherine(?) (van der restaurants 408
Catherine of Bragança Weyden) 118, 120 Camões, Luís Vaz de 50, 194
Bragança, Dukes of 305 Byron, Lord 161 Casa Memória de Camões
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 291, (Constância) 194
304–5 C Monument to the Discoveries
Vila Viçosa 286, 305 Cabanas, hotels 394 (Lisbon) 111
Bragança, Fernando, 3rd Duke Cabeça da Neve 218 Os Lusíadas 24, 51, 158, 194,
of 305 Cabeça do Velho 224 311
Bragança, Jaime, 4th Duke of Cabeceiras de Basto 287 Camões Day 37
305 Cabo Carvoeiro 180 Camping 382–3
Bragança, João, 2nd Duke of Cabo Espichel 169 Campo Maior 302
see João IV, King Cabo Girão 363 restaurants 410
Bragança dynasty 43, 305 Cabo da Roca 156, 160 Campo Pequeno (Lisbon) 122
tomb 74 Cabo de São Vicente 11, 17, 325 Canal de São Roque (Aveiro)
Braganza see Bragança Cabral, Fernão 223 200
Caniçal 356 Casa do Álamo (Alter do Chão) Castles and fortifications

Caniço, hotels 395 302 Abrantes 194
Canoeing 422, 425 Casa do Alentejo (Lisbon) 85 Alandroal 306
Canova, Antonio 331 Casa dos Bicos (Lisbon) 75 Alcoutim 337
Canton 53 Casa de Colombo (Porto Santo) Alegrete 300
Cão, Diogo 363 Aljezur 324
birthplace 261 Casa da Cultura Islâmica e Alter do Chão 302
expeditions 52–3 Mediterrânica (Silves) 328 Alvito 313
Monument to the Discoveries Casa do Douro (Peso da Régua) Arraiolos 307
(Lisbon) 111 256 Beja 317
Cape St Vincent see Cabo de Casa de Garcia de Resende Belmonte 223
São Vicente (Évora) 309 Border Castles Tour 222
Cape Verde 52 Casa das Histórias Paula Rego Bragança 264–5
Capela see Churches (Cascais) 168 Castelo de Almourol 195
Car hire 445 Casa do Infante (Porto) 13, 246, Castelo de Arouce 215
Madeira and the Azores 447 248 Castelo de Guimarãres 286
Caramulinho 219 Casa de João Velho (Viana do Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra)
Caramulo 218 Castelo) 281 47, 163
restaurants 405 Casa de Lúcia (Fátima) 190 Castelo do Queijo (Porto)
Carapacho 373 Casa dos Lunas (Viana do 252
Caravanning 382–3 Castelo) 280 Castelo de São Filipe
Carbonária (secret society) 58 Casa de Mateus 10, 14, 231, (Setúbal) 30, 174
Cardoso, Amadeo de Souza 260–61 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon)
122 Casa da Música (Porto) 252 12, 65, 78–9, 80–81
Carlo Alberto, King of Sardinia Casa da Rede (Mesão Frio) 256 Castelo de Vide 301
249 Casa de Serralves (Porto) 252 Castro Marim 337
Carlos I, King of Portugal 43 Casa-Memória de Camões Celorico da Beira 221
assassination 59, 89 (Abrantes) 194 Chaves 262
Bussaco Palace Hotel 217 Casa-Museu Fernando de Elvas 303
royal yacht 110 Castro (Porto) 252 Estremoz 306
tomb 74 Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro Évoramonte 307
Vila Viçosa 304 (Porto) 12, 244, 246 Fortaleza (Peniche) 180
Carlos I, King of Spain 51 Casas de Campo 382 Fortaleza de Santa Catarina
Carlos of Évora, Frey 100, 249 Cascais 168 (Portimão) 328
Carmelite Order 248 hotels 388 Fortaleza de São João
Buçaco 216 restaurants 401 Baptista 371
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 94 Cascata da Ribeira Grande Fortaleza de São Tiagro
Carmona, General 60 338–9, 377 (Funchal) 353
Carnation Revolution 22, 41, Casino Lisboa (Lisbon) 123 Forte da Ínsua (Foz do
60, 61 Casino de Sintra 162 Minho) 272
Carneiro Adão, Manuel 247 Casinos do Algarve Rally 36 Forte Ponta da Bandiera
Carnivals 37, 421 Castelejo, Praia do 292, 325 (Lagos) 326
Carpets, Arraiolos 307, 417, 419 Castelo Branco 227 Forte de São Brás (Ponte
Cárquere 255 hotels 390 Delgada) 368
Carrasqueira 175 restaurants 405 Forte de São João Baptista
Cars Castelo Mendo 222 (Berlenga Grande) 177, 180
Casinos do Algarve Rally 36 Castelo Rodrigo 222 Forte de São João Baptista da
driving in Portugal 444–5 Castelo de Vide 16, 26, 297, 301 Foz (Porto) 13, 252
great drives 445 Castelo-Melhor, Marquês de 86 Fortifications of Elvas 303
hiring 445, 447 Castile 48–9, 50 Forts, Valença do Minho 272
Madeira and the Azores 447 Castilho, Diogo de 211 Leiria 48, 187
Madeira Wine Rally (Funchal) Castilho, João de 28 Lindoso 276
35 Alcobaça 184 Loulé 330
see also Tours by car Convento de Cristo (Tomar) Marvão 296, 300
Carvalhal, Count of 353 192 Mértola 319
Carvalhelhos 262 Igreja Matriz (Vila do Conde) Mogadouro 267
Carvoeiro 293 278 Monsanto 226–7
hotels 394 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Monsaraz 313
restaurants 412 (Lisbon) 64, 108, 109 Montalegre 262
Castles and fortifications (cont.) Cathedrals (cont.) Centro de Interpretação do

Montemor-o-Novo 307 Portalegre 301 Vulcão dos Capelinhos (Faial)
Montemor-o-Velho 205 Setúbal 174 376
Moura 316 Silves 329 Centrum Cellas (Belmonte)
Óbidos 49, 181 Vila Real 261 223
Palmela 172 Viseu 219 Ceramics
Penamacor 226 Catherine of Bragança Museu da Vista Alegre
Penedono 220 Convento de São Paulo (Aveiro) 207
Penela 214 (Redondo) 306 shops 417, 419
Pombal 187 marriage 55, 305 Cerro da Vila 330
Portalegre 300 Porta da Rainha (Buçaco) 216 Cervejaria Trinidade (Lisbon) 93
Porto de Mós 186 Catherine the Great, Empress Cervejarias (beer houses) 396
Redondo 306 of Russia 118, 121 Cetóbriga 175
Sabugal 226 Catholic Church 24, 432, 433 Ceuta 50, 52
Santa Catarina fortress Cavaco Silva, Aníbal 43, 61 Chagall, Marc 218
(Figueira da Foz) 205 Cavaleiros (bullfighters) 150–51 Chain hotels 380, 383
Santa Maria da Feira 204 Caves Chanterène, Nicolau
Santiago Fort (Sesimbra) 172 Algar do Carvão 371 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Serpa 48, 316 Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa) (Lisbon) 108
Silves 11, 328 373 Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 167
Sines 318 Grutas e Centro do Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211
Sortelha 226 Vulcanismo de São Vicente Sé (Évora) 310
Tavira 336 362 tomb 211
Terena 22 Grutas do Escoural 312 Chapels see Churches
Torre do Galo (Freixo de Grutas das Lapas 195 Charles II, King of England 55,
Espada à Cinta) 267 Grutas de Mira de Aire 186 305
Torres Novas 195 Parque Natural das Serras de Charola (Convento de Cristo,
Torres Vedras 199 Aire e Candeeiros 186 Tomar) 192–3
Viana do Alentejo 313 Caving 424, 425 Chaves 262–3
Vila Nova de Milfontes 318 Cedar Tunnel (Casa de Mateus) hotels 391
Vila Viçosa 305 261 pillory 28
Walls (Évora) 311 Celorico de Basto 287 restaurants 406
Castro, Fernando de, Casa- hotels 392 Cheeses
Museu Fernando de Castro Celorico da Beira 221 Central Portugal 152
(Porto) 252 hotels 390 Rabaçal 214
Castro Guimarães, Conde de Celtiberian tribes 44 Serra 221, 224
168 Celts 44 Chermayeff, Peter 123
Castro Laboreiro 10, 276 Minho 269 Chiado (Lisbon) 94–5
Castro Marim 337 Terras de Basto 287 fire 94
Catarina, Queen (wife of João III) Cemetery, English (Lisbon) 97 street-by-street map 92–3
108 Central Portugal 146–227 Children
tomb 108 Beiras 200–27 in hotels 383
Catarina de Bragança see Estremadura and Ribatejo Portuguese attitude to 23
Catherine of Bragança 176–99 in restaurants 397
Cathedrals golf 426, 427 travelling with 432
Angra do Heroísmo 371 horsemanship and Chimneys, Algarve 27
Aveiro 206 bullfighting 150–51 China 50, 53
Braga 282 Lisbon Coast 154–75 Christ Teaching in the Temple
Coimbra 209, 210 map 148–9 (Bernardes) 30
Évora 309, 310 regional food 152–3 Christian Reconquest 46–7, 48
Faro 332–3 wine 153 Christianity 45
Funchal 13, 351, 352 Centro Colombo (Lisbon) Christmas 37, 233
Guarda 223 117 Christopher Columbus
Idanha-a-Velha 227 Centro Cultural de Belém (Ghirlandaio) 363
Lamego 257 (Lisbon) 110 Churches
Leiria 187 Centro de Educação Ambiental clothing in 431
Lisbon 65, 76 de Marim (near Olhão) 335 opening hours 431
Mirando do Douro 266 Centro Equestre da Lezíria religious services 432
Porto 12, 49, 242, 244, 246 Grande 198 Basílica (Fátima) 190
Churches (cont.) Churches (cont.) Cima da Conegliano 120

Basílica (Monte de Santa Nossa Senhora da Graça Cinema 420, 421
Luzia) 268, 281 (Évora) 309 Lisbon 130, 131
Basílica da Estrela (Lisbon) 97 Nossa Senhora da Lapa Cinfães 255
Bom Jesus (Matosinhos) 252 (Arcos de Valdevez) 273 Cistercians
Bom Jesus do Monte 10, 14, Nossa Senhora do Monte 354 Alcobaça 184
56, 230, 284–5 Nossa Senhora de Oliveira Convento de Arouca 204
Capela dos Ossos (Campo (Guimarães) 286 Citânia de Briteiros 14, 45, 287
Maior) 302 Nossa Senhora da Peneda 276 Clement V, Pope 191
Capela da Rainha Santa Nossa Senhora da Piedade Clement XI, Pope 105
(Estremoz) 306–7 (Loulé) 331 Climate 38–9, 430
Capela de São Miguel Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres Climbing 424, 425
(Coimbra University) 57, 212 (Beja) 317 Clothes
Capela de São Pedro de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios costume in the Minho 232
Balsemão (Lamego) 257 (Lamego) 257 etiquette 431
Dolmen-chapel of Pavia 307 Nossa Senhora dos Remédios shops 129, 418, 419
Dolmen-chapel of São Brissos (Lisbon) 73 size chart 418
312 Saint Vincent’s Anglican Clubs and bars 421
Ermida de São Jerónimo Church (Algarve) 432, 433 Lisbon 131
(Lisbon) 113 Santa Clara (Porto) 245 Côa, Parque Arqueológico do
Igreja do Carmo (Faro) 334 Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211 Vale do 267
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 12, Santa Cruz do Castelo Côa, River 222, 226
90, 93, 94 (Lisbon) 81 Coaches 446
Igreja do Carmo (Porto) 20, Santa Engrácia (Lisbon) 75 Madeira and the Azores 447
248 Santa Luzia (Lisbon) 72 Museu Nacional dos Coches
Igreja dos Clérigos (Porto) Santa Maria (Lagos) 326 (Lisbon) 105, 106–7
247 Santo António (Lagos) 327 Cock, Barcelos 279
Igreja do Colégio (Funchal) Santo António à Sé (Lisbon) Coelho, Eduardo 96
350 77 Coffee drinking 397
Igreja dos Congregados Santuário de Nossa Senhora Coimbra 10, 15, 22, 208–13
(Porto) 247 do Cabo (Cabo Espichel) 169 festivals 34, 36
Igreja da Graça (Lisbon) 77 Santuário de Nossa Senhora history 46, 47, 48
Igreja de Jesus (Setúbal) 174 da Lapa 220 hotels 390
Igreja Matriz (Machico) 356 Santuário de Nossa Senhora map 208–9
Igreja Matriz (Viana do da Piedade 215 railway stations 442, 443
Castelo) 281 São Bento (Bragança) 265 restaurants 405
Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço São Clemente (Loulé) 331 tourist information office 433
(Almancil) 330 São Francisco (Évora) 310 University 57, 149, 212–13
Igreja da Memória (Lisbon) 113 São Francisco (Guimarães) Colaço, Jorge
Igreja da Misericórdia (Évora) 287 Battle of Ourique 31
30, 309 São Francisco (Porto) 13, 247 Igreja dos Congregados
Igreja da Misericórdia (Porto) São Frutuoso de Montélios (Porto) 247
246 (Braga) 45, 283 São Bento Station (Porto)
Igreja do Mosteiro (Leça do São João de Tarouca 257 245
Bailio) 252 São Miguel (Lisbon) 73 Colares 159, 160
Igreja de São Gonçalo São Pedro (Faro) 334 Columbus, Christopher 205
(Amarante) 255 São Pedro (Palmela) 172 Casa de Colombo (Porto
Igreja de São Martinho de São Roque (Lisbon) 93, 94 Santo) 363
Cedofeita (Porto) 249 São Vicente (Bragança) 265 on Porto Santo 363
Madre de Deus (Lisbon) 29, São Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) Santa Maria (Azores) 370
125 54, 74 Communications 438–9
Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos see also Cathedrals; Condeixa-a-Nova
(Elvas) 303 Monasteries and convents hotels 390
Nossa Senhora da Agonia Churchill, Winston 363 restaurants 405
(Viana do Castelo) 281 Churrasqueira restaurants 396 Conímbriga 10, 15, 214
Nossa Senhora da Assunção Cidade, Museu da (Lisbon) 123 reconstruction of 44–5
(Elvas) 303 Ciência, Museu da História Conspiracy of the Nobles 50
Nossa Senhora da Conceição Natural e da (Lisbon) 86 Constância 194
Velha (Lisbon) 28, 89 Cifka, Wenceslau 99 hotels 389
Constitutionalists 41 Culatra 335 Dinis, King (cont.)

Consulates 433 Culture 24–5 Estremoz 306, 307
Contemporary Art, National Cunhal, Álvaro 180 Freixo de Espada à Cinta 267
Museum of (Lisbon) see Curia, hotels 390 Leiria 187
Museu Nacional de Art Curral das Freiras 360 Marvão 300
Contemporânea – Museu do Currency 436–7 Mogadouro 267
Chiado Curvo, Mendo 267 Monsaraz 313
Convents see Monasteries and Customs regulations 430 Óbidos 49, 180
convents Cycling 423, 425, 440 Order of Christ 191
Conversion chart 433 Madeira and the Azores 447 Palácio Nacional de Sintra 165
Cook, Sir Francis 161 Pinhal de Leiria 187
Cook, Captain James 376 D Pinhel 222
Cordoaria Gardens (Porto) 13, Da Gama, Paulo 370 Portalegre 300
242 Da Gama, Vasco 110, 199 Redondo 306
Corelli, Arcangelo 99 Angra do Heroísmo 370 Sabugal 226
Corgo, River 261 birthplace 318 Serpa 48
Cork 319 cenotaph (Lisbon) 75 Torre de Menagem (Beja) 317
Corpus Christi 35, 37 expeditions 41, 51, 52–3 Trancoso 220
Correia, Dom Paio Peres 336 Monument to the Discoveries Viano do Alentejo 313
Corte Real, Gaspar 52 (Lisbon) 111 Disabled travellers 431–2, 433
Coruche 177, 198 Os Lusíadas (Camões) 194 in hotels 383
Corvo 377 São Gabriel (flagship) 333 in restaurants 396
restaurants 414 statue 318 taxis and buses 431–2
Costa, Jorge da, Archbishop of tomb 108 Discounts
Lisbon 101 Vidigueira 316 discount cards 431
Costa, José da 324 Dalí, Salvador 218 student 432
Costa, Manuel de 170 Damascus, Caliphate of 46 Discoveries, Age of see Age of
Costa da Caparica 155, 169 Dance 420, 421 Discovery
hotels 388 Lisbon 130–31 Discoveries, Monument to the
Costa Nova 201, 207 stick dancing 233 see Monument to the
vernacular architecture 26 Dão, wine 32–3, 153, 203 Discoveries
Costa e Silva, José da 95 David, King of Israel 247 Diving 422, 425
Costanza, Infanta of Castile 185 Delacroix, Eugène 196 Dogs
Costumes Delgado, General 60, 317 Portuguese water dog 335
Costume in the Minho 232 Della Robbia, Andrea, St sheepdog of Castro Laboreiro
Museu Nacional do Traje Leonard 98 276
(Lisbon) 127 Delors, Jacques 25 sheepdog of the Serra 225
Coudelaria de Alter 302 Deslys, Gaby 217 Dolmen of Comenda 44
Coutinho, Gago 60 O Desterrado (Soares dos Reis) Dolmen of Zambujeiro 312
Covadonga, Battle of (722) 46 248, 249 Dolphins 375
Covilhã 224 Deu-la-Deu Martins 273 Domingues, Afonso 188
Crafts Deville, Antoine 221 Domus Municipalis (Bragança)
markets 417 Dia 25 de Abril 37 264
shops 129, 417, 419 Dia dos Rapazes 233 Dona Ana, Praia de 293, 327
Cranach, Lucas the Elder 100 Dia de Reis 233 Douro, River 21, 228–9
Crato 301 Dia da Restauração 37 Barragem de Valeira 259
hotels 393 Dia do Trabalhador 37 Mirando do Douro 266
restaurants 410 Dialling codes 438 Port Country Tour 10, 14,
Credit cards 436 Diana (Houdon) 118, 121 258–9
in restaurants 397 Dias, Bartolomeu 52, 199 Port region 231, 234
in shops 416 Dinis, Júlio 205 River View of Porto 248–9
Crime 434 Dinis, King 42, 48–9 Upper Douro 239
Cripta Arqueológica do Castelo Alcobaça 184 Douro and Trás-os-Montes 21,
(Alcácer do Sal) 175 Campo Maior 302 238–67
Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116 Castelo Rodrigo 222 climate 39
Croft (port shippers) 234 Castelo de Vide 301 festivals 233
Cromlech of Almendres 312 castles 222 hotels 391–2
Cromlech of Xerez 313 Coimbra University 212 map 240–41
Cruz de Portugal (Silves) 329 Elvas 303 regional food 236–7
Douro and Trás-os-Montes England, João I’s alliance with Estremoz 16, 298, 306–7
(cont.) 50–51 festivals 34
restaurants 406–8 English Cemetery (Lisbon) 97 hotels 393
travel 241 Enrique II, King of Castile 337 restaurants 410
vernacular architecture 26 Enrique, Prince of Castile 204 Estufa Fria (Parque Eduardo VII,
wines 32–3, 57 Entertainment 420–21 Lisbon) 117
Dovecotes of Montesinho 266 fado 25, 68–9 Etiquette 431
Dressage 150 Lisbon 130–31 The Euro 437
Drinks Epiphany 37 Europe, map 19
coffee drinking 397 Ericeira 159 European Union
in restaurants 397 hotels 388 Centro Cultural de Belém
see also Food and drink; Port; Ermelo 261 (Lisbon) 110
Wine Ermida de São Jerónimo Portugal joins 23, 25, 60–61
Driving in Portugal 444–5 (Lisbon) 113 Eusébio 60
The Drunkards (Malhôa) 59 Eschwege, Baron von 166 Évora 11, 16, 45, 290, 308–11,
Duarte, King 42 Escola Portuguesa de Arte 312
Batalha 188, 189 Equestre (Lisbon) 150 hotels 393
Leal Conselheiro 50 Escola de Rendas (Vila do restaurants 410
Duarte, Alfredo 69 Conde) 278 street-by-street map 308–9
Duas Igrejas 266 Espaço Cultural – Museu Évoramonte 307
Duchamp, Marcel 311 Municipal de Portalegre 301 Expo ’98 61, 123
Dupra, Domenico 304 Espadacinta 267
Durand, Antoine Sébastien 118 Espigueiros (granaries) 230, F
Durão Barroso, José Manuel 43 274–5, 277 Fabri, Francesco 84, 86
Dürer, Albrecht, St Jerome 98, Espinho, hotels 391 Factory, sugar (Calheta) 362
100 Essex, Earl of 332 Fado 25, 68–9
Estádio José Alvalade (Lisbon) O Fado (Malhôa) 69
E 131 Lisbon 65, 130
Eanes, Gil Estádio da Luz (Lisbon) 117, Faial 338–9, 367, 376
expeditions 52 131 hotels 395
Lagos 326 Estado Novo (New State) 60 restaurants 415
Sagres 326 Estalagens (inns) 380 Fajã Grande 377
Earthquake, Lisbon 56, 66–7 Esteves, Pedro 286 Fajãzinha 377
Easter 34, 232 Estoi 17, 331 Falperra 283
Economy 22–3 hotels 394 Family life 24
Edla, Countess Elise 167 Estoi, Viscount of 331 Fantasporto (Porto) 37
Edward III, King of England 51 Estombar, restaurants 412 Farinha, Monte 287
Edward VII, King of England 117 Estoril 168–9 Faro 11, 17, 291, 332–4
Eiffel, Gustave 59, 88, 248 hotels 388 airport 440
Eira do Serrado 360 restaurants 401–2 history 46–7, 48
Eleanor of Aragon 101 Estrada de Escarpa 173 hotels 394
Electricity 433 Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, map 333
Elevador do Carmo (Lisbon) see festivals 36 railway station 443
Elevador de Santa Justa Estrela, Serra da see Serra da restaurants 412
Elevador da Glória (Lisbon) 84, Estrela tourist information office 433
448, 449 Estrela district (Lisbon) see under Moorish rule 46–7
Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon) Bairro Alto and Estrela Faro Jewish Heritage Centre 334
12, 65, 82, 88, 93, 448 Estremadura and Ribatejo 21, Farol 335
Elvas 11, 16, 291, 302–3 176–99 Fátima 24, 190
festivals 36 bullfighting 150 hotels 389
fortifications 303 climate 38 pilgrimages 34, 36
hotels 393 hotels 388–9 restaurants 403
map 303 map 178–9 vision of Virgin Mary 60, 190
restaurants 410 regional food 153 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 75, 417
War of Independence 54–5 restaurants 403–4 Feira Medieval de Silves 35
Email 438–9 travel 178 Feira Nacional da Agricultura
Embassies 433 vernacular architecture (Santarém) 35
Embroidery shops 417 26–7 Feira Nacional do Cavalo
Emergencies 434, 435 wines 32–3 (Golegã) 36
Feira de Outubro (Vila Franca Festa de Senhora da Food and drink (cont.)
de Xira) 36 Consolação (Sintra) 36 shops 128, 129, 418, 419
Feira de São Mateus (Elvas) 36 Festa dos Tabuleiros (Tomar) Southern Portugal 294–5
Feiras Novas (Ponte de Lima) 35, 191 Story of Port 234–5
36 Festa das Vindimas (Palmela) 36 wines of Portugal 32–3
Felipe I, King see Philip II, King Festas do Espírito Santo see also Restaurants
of Spain (Azores) see Holy Spirit Football 25, 60
Felipe II, King see Philip III, King festivals Euro 2004 61
of Spain Festas Gualterianas Forrester, Baron Joseph James
Felipe III, King see Philip IV, King (Guimarães) 35 249, 258, 259
of Spain Festas de Lisboa 421 Forts see Castles and
Ferdinand the Great, King of Festival de Gastronomia fortifications
Castile 208, 220 (Santarém) 36 Foz, Marquês de 86
Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg- Festival do Marisco (Olhão) 35 Foz do Minho 272
Gotha (Dom Fernando II) Festivals 24, 34–7 Foz de Odeleite 337
121, 167 festivals of the North 232–3 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 121
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) Holy Spirit festivals in the França 266
163 Azores 372 Francis of Assisi, St 76
Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 166 see also Festa; Romerias Francis Xavier, St 94
Parque da Pena 163 FIAPE (Estremoz) 34 Franciscan Order 76
Fernandes, Inês 223 Fielding, Henry 97 Franco, General Francisco 60
Fernandes, Mateus 189 Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo 222 Franco, Francisco (sculptor) 350
Fernandes, Vasco see Grão, Figueira da Foz 202, 205 Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116
Vasco hotels 390 Franco, Zé 158
Fernandine Wall (Porto) 245 restaurants 405 Freixo de Espada à Cinta 267
Fernando I, King 42 Figueirinha 173 Frey Carlos of Évora 100, 249
death 48, 189 Films see Cinema Fronteira, João de Mascarenhas,
Évora 311 Fire services 434, 435 Marquês de 127
Fernandine Walls (Porto) 245 Fisgas de Ermelo 261 Fronteira, Palácio see Palácio
marriage 49 Fishing Fronteira
Monsaraz 313 holidays 423–4, 425 Funchal 341, 348, 350–53
peace of Alcoutim 337 Museu Marítimo e Regional airport 440
Fernando II, Dom see Ferdinand de Ílhavo (Aveiro) 206–7 day tour of 13
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Olhão 334 festivals 34, 35, 36, 37
Fernão, Infante 101 Sesimbra 172 hotels 395
Ferragudo, restaurants 412 Flor da Rosa monastery restaurants 413–14
Ferreira, Adam Gonçalves 354 (pousada) 301 street-by-street map 350–51
Ferries 444, 445 Flora Funda, Lagoa 377
Azores 447 Flower Festival (Funchal) 34 Fundação Abel e João de
Fervença, River 231, 265 Flowers of Madeira 342–3 Lacerda (Caramulo) 218
Festa da Coca (Monção) 35 Flowers of the Western Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
Festa do Colete Encarnado Algarve 325 (Lisbon) 130, 131
(Vila Franca de Xira) 35, 198 see also Nature reserves; Parks see also Museu Calouste
Festa das Cruzes (Barcelos) 34, and gardens Gulbenkian
232, 279 Flores 338–9, 377 Fundação Eugénio de Almeida
Festa do Espírito Santo (Azores) restaurants 415 (Évora) 308, 311
34 Flying 423, 425 Fundação Oriente Museu
Festa das Latas (Coimbra) 36 Fogo, Lagoa do 369 (Lisbon) 116
Festa da Nossa Senhora da Boa Fóia 324 Fundação de Serralves Museu
Viagem (Peniche) 35 Folk dance 25, 233 de Arte Contemporâna
Festa dos Rapazes (Bragança) Folk music 130–31 (Porto) 13, 252
37 Fonte Mourisca (Sintra) 162 Funicular railways 448
Festa da Ria (Aveiro) 35 Fonte da Subuga (Sintra) 162 Bom Jesus do Monte 284
Festa de São Gonçalinho Food and drink Elevador da Glória (Lisbon) 84
(Aveiro) 37 Central Portugal 152–3 Furado Grande 180
Festa de São Gonçalo coffee 397 Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa)
(Amarante) 35 Madeira wine 355 373
Festa do Senhor Santo Cristo dos Northern Portugal 236–7 Furna do Enxofre (Terceira) 371
Milagres (Ponta Delgada) 34 Serra cheese 221, 224 Furna Maria Encantada 373
Furnas 369 Grutas see Caves Hieronymites (Order of St

Furnas, Lagoa das 369 Guadiana, River 313, 337 Jerome) 108
Guarda 223 Hilário, Augusto 219
G hotels 390 História Natural e de Ciência,
Gainsborough, Thomas 121 restaurants 405 Museu de (Lisbon) 86
Galapos 173 Guardi, Francesco, View of the History 40–61
Galleries see Museums and Molo with the Ducal Palace Hitching 432
galleries 121 Holanda, Franciso de 191
Gardens see Parks and gardens Guimarães 10, 14, 269, 286–7 Holbein, Hans the Elder 246
Garrett, João Almeida 95, 249 festivals 35 The Mystic Marriage of St
Geology, Azores 344–5 hotels 392 Catherine 98
Geraldo Sem-Pavor 310 restaurants 409 Holidays, public 37
captures cities from Guincho 168 Holy Spirit festivals (Azores) 34,
Almohads 47 hotels 388 372
Monsaraz 313 restaurants 402 Holy Week 34, 232
Gerês Mountains 276 Guitarra 68 Homem, River 276
Germain, François-Thomas 101 Gulbenkian, Calouste 60, 121 Horses
Germanic tribes 44–5 Gulbenkian Foundation 121 Alter Real 302
Geysers, Furnas do Enxofre Museu Calouste Gulbenkian Centro Equestre da Lezíria
(Terceira) 371 (Lisbon) 118–21 Grande 198
Ghirlandaio, Domenico 120 Planetário Calouste Feira Nacional do Cavalo 36
Ghirlandaio, Ridolfo, Gulbenkian (Lisbon) 107 Golegã 196
Christopher Columbus 363 Guterres, António 43, 61 horse riding 424, 425
Gil, Augusto 223 horsemanship and
Gilão, River 336 H bullfighting 150–51
Gilbert of Hastings 76 Hadrian, Emperor 302 Horta 367, 376
Gildemeester, Daniel 161 Hapsburg dynasty 43 airport 440
Gimonde, restaurants 406 Health 434–5 festivals 35
Giusti, Alessandro 158 Health insurance 435 Hospitallers see Knights
Goa 50, 51, 52, 53, 60 Hemingway, Ernest 354 Hospitaller
Góis, Damião de 199 Henrique, Cardinal-King 43, 54 Hospitals 435
Golegã 196 Henrique, Infante Dom see Hostels 382, 383
festivals 36 Henry the Navigator Hotels 380–95
hotels 389 Henry of Burgundy 47 Alentejo 393
Golf Castelo de Guimarães 286 Algarve 393–5
golfing holidays 426–7 Sé (Braga) 282 Azores 395
Madeira Islands Golf Open 34 tomb 282 Beiras 389–90
Portugal Masters 36 Henry the Navigator (Infante booking 381, 383
Gomes, António, Tree of Jesse Dom Henrique) 53 budget 382, 383
(Porto) 247 Cabo de São Vicente 325 chains 380, 383
Gomes, Diogo 52 Casa do Infante (Porto) 13, children 383
Gonçalo of Lagos, São 326 246, 248 disabled travellers 383
Gonçalves, André 204 cenotaph (Lisbon) 75 Douro and Trás-os-Montes
Gonçalves, Nuno 111 Convento de Cristo (Tomar) 391–2
Panels of St Vincent 99, 100–101 192 Estremadura and Ribatejo
Gothic architecture 51 expeditions 50 388–9
Manueline architecture 28 Lagos 326 gradings 381
Gouveia, restaurants 405 Madeira 356 Lisbon 386–7
Graça district (Lisbon) 77 Monument to the Discoveries Lisbon Coast 387–8
Graciosa 373 (Lisbon) 110–11 Madeira 395
Grão Vasco 219, 257 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Minho 392
Adoration of the Magi 52 (Lisbon) 110 pensões 380, 381
Igreja Matriz (Freixo de Order of Christ 191 pousadas 380, 383, 384–5
Espada à Cinta) 267 portrait 101 prices 381
Museu de Grão Vasco (Viseu) Sagres 326 resort accommodation 382
219 statue of 326 types of 380
St Peter 219 tomb 189 Houdon, Jean-Antoine, Diana
Green travel 433, 440, 441 Herculano, Alexandre 108 118, 121
Grenville, Sir Richard 377 Hickling, Thomas 369 House of Avis see Avis, House of
Houseboats 440 Itineraries (cont.) João I, King (cont.)

Huguet 188 One Week in Southern Nossa Senhora da Oliveira
Huston, John 356 Portugal 11, 17 (Guimarães) 286
A Tour of the Atlantic Palácio Nacional de Sintra
I Coastline 10, 15 164, 165
Iberians 44 A Tour of Medieval Portugal Palmela 172
Idanha-a-Velha 227 11, 16 regency 49
Idrisi (Arab geographer) 328 Two Days in Lisbon 12 statues 85, 87
Igreja see Churches Two Days in Madeira 13 tomb 189
Ilha do Pessegueiro 318 Two Days in Porto 12–13 João II, King 42
Ilha de Tavira 11, 293, 336 Conspiracy of the Nobles
Immaculate Conception 37 J 50
Impérios of the Holy Spirit 372 James, St 47 death 325
Impressionists 121 Japan 53, 55 Elvas 303
India 50, 52, 53, 60 Jardim see Parks and gardens and the House of Bragança
Vasco da Gama 110 Jazz 420–21 305
Inês de Castro 49 Jazz em Agosto (Lisbon) 35 maritime expansion 53
children 51 Lisbon 130–31 portrait 101
marriage 265 Jean de Rouen Silves 329
murder of 49, 185, 209 Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211 Vaina do Alentejo 313
Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra) Sé (Guarda) 223 João III, King 42, 51, 191
211 Torre de Anto (Coimbra) 209 Convento da Madre de Deus
tomb 184–5 Jerome, St 108–9 (Lisbon) 124
Inquisition 51, 54, 55 Jerónimos monastery (Lisbon) Convento de Cristo (Tomar)
Coimbra 208 64, 104, 108–9 192
Rossio (Lisbon) 87 Jervis, Admiral 325 Crato 301
Insurance Jesse, Tree of (Porto) 247 Igreja da Graça (Coimbra)
health 435 Jesuits 54 208
travel 435 Évora 310 tomb 108
International Chocolate expulsion of 57 and Vasco da Gama 110
Festival (Óbidos) 34 Santárem 197 João IV, King 43, 55, 223
Internet access 438–9 São Roque (Lisbon) 94 Évora 311
Interpreters 435 Sé Nova (Coimbra) 210 restoration 54–5
Iria, Santa 191, 197 Jewellery shops 417 Santárem 197
Iron Age 44–5 Jews statues 291, 305
Citânia de Briteiros 287 Bragança 265 tomb 74
Murça 263 Castelo de Vide 301 Vila Viçosa 304–5
Sanfins de Ferreira 254 expulsion of 50 João V, King 43, 56–7, 101
Irrigation, levadas of Madeira 360 Faro Jewish Heritage Centre Aqueduto das Águas Livres
Isabel, Queen (St Isabel, wife of 334 (Lisbon) 57, 126
King Dinis) 49, 210 Guarda 223 Biblioteca Joanina (Coimbra
Estremoz 306 Museu Luso-Hebraico de University) 212
Holy Spirit festivals 372 Abraham Zacuto (Tomar) 191 Convento da Madre de Deus
Leiria 187 Tomar synagogue 191 (Lisbon) 124
marriage 180, 301 Trancoso 220 extravagance 56
Óbidos 180 Joana, Santa 206 Palácio de Belém (Lisbon)
portrait 101 Joanes, Domingues 218 104, 106
Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra) João I, King 42, 50–51 Palácio de Mafra 56–7, 158
211 alliance with England Palácio Pimenta (Lisbon)
tomb 211 50–51 123
Trancoso 220 Batalha 188 portrait 56
Isabel, Queen (wife of Afonso V) Battle of Aljubarrota 50, 189, Santa Clara-a-Nova (Coimbra)
181 286 211
Islam 46, 52 becomes king 48, 50 São Roque (Lisbon) 94
Islands see Azores; Madeira; birth 279 Sé (Lisbon) 76
Portugal’s Islands Chaves 262 Vila Viçosa 304
Itineraries 10–17 defeats Castilians 50 João VI, King 43, 171
One Week in Northern Guarda 223 horsemanship 150–51
Portugal 10, 14 House of Avis 50–51 Olhão 334
João VI, King (cont.) L Leonor Teles 49

Palácio Nacional da Ajuda La Fontaine, Jean de 74 Lettres Portugaises (Alcoforado)
(Lisbon) 113 Laborão, Barros 100 317
João de Castilho see Castilho, Lace Levada do Risco 361
João de Escola de Rendas (Vila do Levada da Rocha Vermelha
João de Deus, São (St John of Conde) 278 361
God) 307 shopping 417 Levadas of Madeira 360
John of Gaunt 50, 51 Lagar de Varas do Fojo (Moura) Lezíria 198
John Paul II, Pope 77, 190 316 Licences, driving 445
José I, King 43 Lagos 11, 17, 290, 326–7 Lima, River 230, 233, 273, 278
Alter Real horses 302 history 50 Lindoso 274–5, 276, 277
Coimbra University 212 hotels 394 Lines of Torres Vedras 199
Igreja da Memória 113 Moorish Portugal 46, 47 Linhares 225
Palácio de Belém (Lisbon) restaurants 412 Linhas de Elvas, Battle of 54–5
106 Lajes do Pico 365, 374–5 Lino, Raúl 31, 196
Pombal’s reforms 56 Lalique, René 118 Lis, River 187
silver tableware 101 Lalique Collection (Museu Lisboa see Lisbon
statue 57, 89 Calouste Gulbenkian) 121 Lisboa Story Centre (Lisbon) 89
José (son of Maria I) 97 Lamas de Mouro 276 Lisbon 10, 15, 22, 62–145
Jose Maria de Fonseca Lamas de Olo 261 airport 440
(Vila Nogueira de Azeitão) Lamego 256–7 Alfama 70–81
173 festivals 36 Bairro Alto and Estrela 90–101
José Saramago Foundation hotels 391 Baixa and Avenida 82–9
(Lisbon) 75 restaurants 406 Belém 102–13
Josefa de Óbidos 55, 100, 181, Landscape and flowers of disabled travellers 432
252 Madeira 342–3 earthquake 56, 66–7
birth 54 Language 24–5, 431, 479–80 entertainment 130–31
Paço dos Duques Largo do Chafariz de Dentro festivals 35, 421
(Guimarães) 286 (Lisbon) 73 Further Afield 114–27
Juan I, King of Castile 48–9, Largo do Chiado (Lisbon) 92 golf 426, 427
189 Largo da Porta de Moura history 47, 48, 49
Junot, General 57, 194 (Évora) 311 hotels 386–7
Junqueiro, Guerra, Casa-Museu Largo das Portas do Sol maps 19, 64–5
Guerra Junqueiro (Porto) 244, (Lisbon) 12, 72 railway stations 442, 443
246 Latifúndios 297 reconstruction 66–7
Laurence, St 330 regional food 152–3
K Leandros, River 225 restaurants 398–401
Karl I, Austro-Hungarian Leça do Bailio 252 shopping 128–9
Emperor 354 Leça da Palmeira, restaurants Street Finder 132–45
Kings and Queens 42–3 406 tourist information office 433
Knights Hospitaller 218, 301 Legal assistance 435 travelling in 448–9
Knights of the Order of Christ Leiria 15, 187 Two Days in Lisbon 12
see Order of Christ history 48 Lisbon Coast 154–75
Knights of Santiago hotels 389 climate 38
Albufeira 329 restaurants 403 hotels 387–8
Carcela Velha 336 Leitura Nova 40 map 156–7
Palmela 172 Leo X, Pope 89 restaurants 401–3
Silves 328 León and Castile, Kingdom of 46 travel 157
Knights Templar 177, 191 Leonardo da Vinci 196 Lisbon and Estoril Film Festival
Convento de Cristo 192–3 Leonor, Queen (third wife of 420, 421
Idanha-a-Velha 227 Manuel I) 51 Listings magazines 130
Mogadouro 267 Leonor, Queen (wife of João II) Lobo, Felipe 108
Monsaraz 313 Caldas da Rainha 181 Lobo, Silvestre Faria 171
Penamacor 226 Convento da Madre de Deus Lodi, Fortunato 87
Pombal 187 (Lisbon) 124 Lombo dos Reis 362
Santiago do Cacém 318 emblem 181 Long-haul flights 441
Tomar 190–93 Nossa Senhora da Assunção Lopes, Armindo Teixeira 252
see also Order of Christ (Faro) 333 Museu Municipal Armindo
Kooning, Willem de 110 statue 89 Teixeira Lopes (Mirandela) 263
Lopes, Armindo Teixeira (cont.) Madeira (cont.) Manuel I, King (cont.)

statue of Eça de Queirós maps 18, 341, 348–9 Igreja da Misericórdia (Porto)
(Lisbon) 92 Rabaçal walks 361 246
Lopes, Carlos 117 restaurants 413–14 Machico 356
Lopes, Gregório 190–91, 194 travel 447 maritime expansion 52–3
Lopes, João the Elder 280 Two Days in Madeira 13 Monument to the Discoveries
Loreto (Madeira) 362 Madeira Islands Golf Open 34 (Lisbon) 111
Loulé 17, 330–31 Madeira Wine Rally (Funchal) Palácio Nacional de Sintra
festivals 34, 37, 421 35 164, 165
hotels 394 Madre de Deus, convent of portrait 40
restaurants 412 (Lisbon) 29, 124–5 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 89
Lourosa 218 Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras Silves 329
Lousã 214–15 (Lisbon) 126 Sines 318
Loveletters of a Heartsick Nun Mãe Soberana (Loulé) 34 statues 89, 169
317 Mafalda, Princess 204 tomb 108
Low-cost airlines 441 Mafra 158 Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 112
Ludovice, João Federico see Palácio de Mafra 56–7, 155, wedding 51
Ludwig, Johann Friedrich 158 Manuel II, King 43
Ludwig, Johann Friedrich Mafra School of Sculpture 97, Bussaco Palace Hotel 217
Palácio de Mafra 158 158 Ericeira 159
Sé (Évora) 310 Magalhães, Fernão de exile 58, 59, 305
Solar do Vinho do Porto (Ferdinand Magellan) 52 Palácio de Mafra 158
(Lisbon) 96 birthplace 259 Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 166
Luís I, King 43, 59 Monument to the Discoveries tomb 74
Cascais 168 (Lisbon) 111 Vila Viçosa 304
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda Magalhães, Teresa 122 Manueline architecture 25,
(Lisbon) 113 Magazines 439 28–9, 64
Luís Felipe, Prince listings magazines 130 Batalha 188
assassination 59, 89 Magellan, Ferdinand see Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
tomb 74 Magalhães, Fernão de (Lisbon) 64, 108–9
Luisa de Guzmán (wife of O Magriço 220 Maps
João IV) 55 Maia, Manuel da 122 Age of Discovery 52–3
Luna family 280 Maiolica, azulejo tiles 30, 124 Alentejo 298–9
Lusitani tribe 44 Malhôa, José 196 Algarve 322–3
Lusitania 44–5 The Drunkards 59 Azores 18, 366–7
Luso 215 O Fado 69 Azores: inter-island flights
hotels 390 Malveira 158 and ferries 447
Mamede Passos Coehlo, Pedro Beaches of the Algarve 292–3
M Manuel 39, 43, 61 Beiras 202–3
Macao 50, 53, 61 Manadas 373 Border Castles Tour 222
Machado de Castro, Joaquim Manet, Edouard 121 Braga 283
Basílica da Estrela (Lisbon) 97 Manini, Luigi 217 Bragança: the Citadel 264–5
Museu Nacional Machado de Manners 431 Buçaco 216–17
Castro (Coimbra) 211 Al-Mansur 46, 48, 307 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon)
São Vicente de Fora 74 Manteigas 224 80–81
Sé (Lisbon) 76 hotels 390 Central Portugal 148–9
statue of José I 57, 89 restaurants 405 Coimbra 208–9
Machico 356 Manuel I, King 42 Douro and Trás-os-Montes
Machim, Robert 356 armillary sphere 52, 226 240–41
Madalena 374 banishes Jews 191 Elvas 303
Madeira 22, 346–63 Batalha 189 Estremadura and Ribatejo
climate 38 Calheta 362 178–9
crafts 417 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) Europe 19
festivals 34, 35, 36, 37 80 Évora street-by-street 308–9
golf 427 Convento de Cristo (Tomar) Faro 333
hotels 395 192 Funchal 350–51
landscape and flowers 342–3 Crato 301 Iberian Peninsula in 27 BC 44
levadas 360 expeditions 41, 50 Iberian Peninsula in 1100 46
Madeira wine 355 Funchal 352 Iberian Peninsula in 1200 48
Maps (cont.) Maria I, Queen (cont.) Megaliths

Iberian Peninsula in 1500 50 royal brig 110 Megaliths Tour 312
Lisbon: Alfama 71 tomb 97 Monsaraz 313
Lisbon: Alfama street-by- Maria II, Queen 43, 58, 166, 167 Meia Praia 293, 327
street 72–3 Angra do Heróismo 371 Melgaço 273
Lisbon: at a Glance 64–5 Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II hotels 392
Lisbon: Bairro Alto and (Rossio) 87 Melides, Lagoa de 318
Chiado street-by-street 92–3 Maria, Dona (wife of Manuel I) Memling, Hans 100
Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Estrela 108 Mendes, Fernão 264
91 Maria Pia di Savoia 113, 165 Mendonça, Bishop João de 227
Lisbon: Baixa and Avenida 83 Marialva 220 Meneses, Duarte de 197
Lisbon: Belém 103 Marialva, Marquês de, Menhir of Almendres 312
Lisbon: Belém street-by-street horsemanship 150–51 Menhir of Belhôa 313
104–5 Mariana’s window (Beja) 317 Menhir of Outeiro 313
Lisbon: Further Afield 115 Marine life (Azores) 375 Menino Jesus (Arganil) 215
Lisbon: Greater Lisbon 19 Marioneta, Museu da (Lisbon) 95 Menino Jesus da Cartolinha
Lisbon: Metro system 449 Marisqueira restaurants 396 (Miranda do Douro) 266
Lisbon: Restauradores street- Maritime Museum (Lisbon) 110 Menus 396
by-street 84–5 Markets 128, 129, 416–17, 419 Mercado dos Lavradores
Lisbon: Street Finder 132–45 Barcelos 279 (Funchal) 13, 353
Lisbon Coast 156–7 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 75, 417 Mértola 11, 16, 319
Madeira 18, 348–9 Malveira 158 Moorish Portugal 46, 47
Megaliths Tour 312 Mercado dos Lavradores restaurants 411
Minho 270–71 (Funchal) 353 Mesão Frio 256
Northern Portugal 230–31 Marta, Francisco 190 hotels 391
Porto 242–3 Marta, Jacinta 190 Methuen Treaty 56
Porto: Cathedral District Martin, St 249 Metro
street-by-street 244–5 Martinhal 292, 326 Lisbon 448–9
Parque Nacional da Peneda- Martins, Deu-la-Deu 273 Porto 449
Gerês 276–7 Martins, Manuel 330 MFA (Movimento das Forças
Port Country Tour 258–9 Martins, Dona Teresa 278 Armadas) 61
Port region 234 Marvan 300 Mid-Atlantic Ridge 344–5, 374
Porto Santo 349 Marvão 11, 16, 291, 296, 300 Miguel, Infante 56
Portugal 18–19 hotels 393 Miguel, King
Portugal’s Islands 340–41 restaurants 410–11 abdication 307
Pousadas of Portugal 384–5 Mary, Virgin Albufeira 329
Rabaçal Walks 361 Fátima 60, 190 War of the Two Brothers 58
Railway lines 443 Santuário de Nossa Senhora Milreu (Estoi) 331
Ria de Aveiro 207 da Lapa 220 Minas de São Domingos 319
Road map of mainland Masséna, General 199, 221 Minho 21, 268–87
Portugal see inside back cover Master of the Sardoal 194, 211, climate 38
São Miguel 368–9 310 costume 232
Serra da Arrábida 173 Two Bishop-Saints 309, 310 hotels 392
Serra da Estrela 224–5 Matches, Museu dos Fósforos map 270–71
Serra de Sintra Tour 160–61 (Tomar) 191 regional food 236
Sintra 163 Mateus, Casa de 260–61 restaurants 408–9
Southern Portugal 290–91 Mateus, Morgado de 260 travel 271
Viana do Castelo street-by- Mateus rosé wine 32, 260 vernacular architecture 26
street 280–81 Matisse, Henri 317 Minho, River 272, 273
Vila Nova de Gaia 253 Matosinhos 252 Mira, River 318
Wine Regions of Portugal 32 Mealhada 215 Miradouro da Espalamaca
Marble, in the Alentejo 306 restaurants 405 (Faial) 376
Mardel, Carlos 126, 211 Measurements, conversion Miradouro da Graça (Lisbon) 77
Margem Sul (Lisbon) 116, 155 chart 433 Miradouro da Ponta da
Maria I, Queen 43, 56, 74, 101, Meca 199 Madrugada (São Miguel) 369
171 Media 438–9 Miradouro da Ponta do
Basílica da Estrela (Lisbon) Medical treatment 435 Sossego (São Miguel) 369
97 Medieval Portugal, A Tour of Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Palácio de Queluz 57, 170–71 11, 16 (Lisbon) 72, 74
Miradouro de São Pedro de Monção 271, 273 Moura 299, 316

Alcântara (Lisbon) 96 festivals 35 Moura, João 150
Miradouro da Vigia (Sintra) 162 Monchique 17, 324–5 Moura Teles, Dom Rodrigo de
Miranda do Douro 266 Mondego, River 210 284
restaurants 407 Mondim de Basto 287 Mourão 313
Mirandela 263 Monet, Claude 121 Movies see Cinema
restaurants 407 Money 436–7 Mozambique 59
Miróbriga 318 Moniz, António Egas 60 Mozarabs 47
Misericórdia (Viana do Castelo) Moniz, Egas MUDE (Lisbon) 88
280 heals Afonso Henriques 255 Mumadona, Countess 206
Mobile phones 438 tomb 254 Murça 263
Moby Dick (film) 356 Moniz, Filipa 363 porca 44, 263
Mogadouro 267 Moniz, Martim 81 Al Musara, Battle of (756) 46
Moluccas 53 Monsanto 23, 226–7 Museums and galleries 431
Monasteries and convents restaurants 405 admission charges 431
Convento da Arrábida (Serra Monsaraz 16, 313, 314–15 opening hours 431
da Arrábida) 157, 173 restaurants 411 archaeology museum (Igreja
Convento dos Capuchos Monserrate 161 do Carmo, Lisbon) 94
161 Montalegre 262 Berardo Collection Museum
Convento de Cristo (Tomar) Monte 13, 354 (Lisbon) 110
28, 149, 190, 192–3 toboggan 354 Câmara Municipal (Funchal)
Convento da Esperança Monte Brasil 371 351
(Ponta Delgada) 368 Monte Estoril, restaurants 402 Casa do Álamo (Alter do
Convento de Ganfei 272 Monte Gordo Chão) 302
Convento dos Lóios (Évora) beach 293 Casa da Cultura Islâmica e
309 hotels 394 Mediterrânica (Silves) 328
Convento da Madre de Deus Monte da Guia 376 Casa das Histórias Paula Rego
(Lisbon) 29, 124–5 Monte de Santa Luzia 14, 268, (Cascais) 168
Convento de Nossa Senhora 281 Casa do Paço (Figueira da
da Conceição 317 Monteiro, Augusto Carvalho 162 Foz) 205
Convento de Santa Clara Monteiro, José Luís Casa Vasco da Gama (Sines)
(Funchal) 13, 352 Avenida Palace Hotel (Lisbon) 318
Convento de São Paulo 306 86 Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas
Flor de Rosa 301 Rossio station (Lisbon)55 84 (Golegã) 196
Mosteiro de Arouca 204 Montemor-o-Novo 307 Casa-Memória de Camões
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Montemor-o-Velho 205 (Abrantes) 194
(Lisbon) 12, 51, 102, 104, Montes Claros, Battle of 55 Casa-Museu Fernando de
108–9 Montesinho Castro (Porto) 252
Mosteiro de Refojos dovecotes 266 Casa-Museu Guerra
(Cabeceiras de Basto) 287 Parque Natural de 266 Junqueiro (Porto) 12, 244,
Mosteiro de Santa Clara (Vila Monuments 246
do Conde) 278 Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116 Casa-Museu dos Patudos
Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Monument to the Discoveries (Alpiarça) 196
Alcobaça 177, 184–5 (Lisbon) 12, 110–11 Centro de Educação
Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Monument to Pombal Ambiental de Marim (near
(Porto) 13, 252 (Lisbon) 117 Olhão) 335
Mosteiro de Tibães 283 World War I Memorial Cripta Arqueológica do
Pitões das Júnias 277 (Lisbon) 86 Castelo (Alcácer do Sal) 175
Santa Clara-a-Nova (Coimbra) Moors 46–7 Espaço Cultural – Museu
211 Núcleo Islâmico (Mértola) 319 Municipal de Portalegre 301
Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra) Morais, Cristóvão de 100 Fundação Abel e João de
211 Morais, Graça 122 Lacerda (Caramulo) 218
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211 Morocco 50 Fundação Eugénio de
Santa Maria da Vitória Mosteiro see Monasteries and Almeida (Évora) 308, 311
(Batalha) 148, 176, 188–9 convents Fundação Oriente Museu
Santa Marinha da Costa Mota, Rosa 61 (Lisbon) 116
(Guimarães) 287, 385 Motorail 444 Fundação de Serralves Museu
São João de Longos Vales 273 Motorways 444–5 de Arte Contemporânea
São João de Tarouca 257 Mountaineering 424, 425 (Porto) 13, 252
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Grutas e Centro do Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Museu de Lamego 257
Vulcanismo de São Vicente Coleção do Fundador12, 65, Museu da Lisboa (Lisbon) 123
362 118–21 Museu Luso-Hebraico de
José Saramago Foundation Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Abraham Zacuto (Tomar) 191
(Lisbon) 75 Colecao Moderna 122 Museu de Marinha (Lisbon)
Lisboa Story Centre 89 Museu do Caramulo 218 110
Mértola vila museu 319 Museu Cargaleiro (Castelo Museu da Marioneta (Lisbon)
MUDE (Lisbon) 88 Branco) 227 95
Museu Abade de Baçal Museu Carlos Machado Museu Marítimo (Faro) 333
(Bragança) 265 (Ponta Delgada) 368 Museu Marítimo e Regional
Museu Abade Pedrosa (Santo Museu do Carro Eléctrico de Ílhavo (Aveiro) 206–7
Tirso) 254 252 Museu Marquês de Pombal
Museu da Água (Lisbon) 122 Museu de Cerámica (Caldas (Pombal) 187
Museu de Alberto Sampaio da Rainha) 181 Museu Martins Sarmento
(Guimarães) 286 Museu do Côa (Torre de (Guimarães) 286–7
Museu de Aljustrela (Fátima) Moncorvo) 267 Museu Militar (Bragança) 264
190 Museu do Condo de Castro Museu Militar (Buçaco) 216
Museu Amadeo de Souza- Guimarães (Cascais) 168 Museu Militar (Chaves) 262
Cardosa (Amarante) 255 Museu das Curiosidades Museu Militar (Lisbon) 75
Museu de Angra do (Romeu) 263 Museu Municipal de
Heroísmo 371 Museu do Design e da Moda Estremoz Professor Joaquim
Museu Antoniano (Lisbon) 77 see MUDE (Lisbon) Vermelho 307
Museu de Arqueologia Museu Dom Lopo de Museu Municipal (Faro) 333
(Montemor-o-Novo) 307 Almeida (Abrantes) 194 Museu Municipal (Funchal)
Museu de Arqueologia e Museu do Douro (Peso da 350
Etnografia (Setúbal) 174 Régua) 256 Museu Municipal (Marvão) 300
Museu Arqueológico Museu Episcopal (Beja) 317 Museu Municipal (Óbidos) 181
(Barcelos) 279 Museu da Ericeira 159 Museu Municipal (Porto de
Museu Arqueológico Museu Etnográfico da Mós) 186
(Santarém) 197 Madeira (Ribeira Brava) 363 Museu Municipal (Ribeira
Museu Arqueológico (Silves) Museu de Évora 309, 310 Grande) 368
329 Museu da Fabrica da Balela Museu Municipal (Santiago
Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e do Boqueirao 377 do Cacém) 318
Tecnologia 111 Museu do Fado (Lisbon) 75 Museu Municipal (Torres
Museu de Arte Museu das Flores (Santa Cruz) Vedras) 199
Contemporânea de Elvas 303 377 Museu Municipal (Vila Franca
Museu de Arte Sacra (Braga) Museu dos Fósforos (Tomar) de Xira) 198
282 191 Museu Municipal Armindo
Museu de Arte Sacra Museu Francisco de Lacerda Teixeira Lopes (Mirandela) 263
(Coimbra University) 212 (Calheta) 373 Museu Municipal de Carlos
Museu de Arte Sacra Museu Francisco Tavares Reis (Torres Novas) 195
(Funchal) 351, 352 Proença Júnior (Castelo Museu Municipal Dr José
Museu de Arte Sacra Branco) 227 Formosinho (Lagos) 327
(Monsaraz) 313 Museu da Graciosa (Santa Museu Municipal Dr Santos
Museu das Artes de Sintra 162 Cruz da Graciosa) 373 Rocha (Figueira da Foz) 205
Museu de Artes Decorativas Museu de Grão Vasco (Viseu) Museu Municipal de
Portuguesas (Lisbon) 72, 74 219 Fotografía João Carpinteiro
Museu de Artes Decorativas Museu de Guarda 223 (Elvas) 303
(Viana do Castelo) 281 Museu da Horta 376 Museu Nacional de
Museu do Automóvel Museu da Indústria Baleeira Arqueologia (Lisbon) 104,
(Caramulo) 218 (Pico) 375 107, 108
Museu de Aveiro 206 Museu das Janelas Verdes Museu Nacional de Arte
Museu dos Baleeiros (Lajes) 375 (Lisbon) see Museu Nacional Antiga (Lisbon) 64, 98–101
Museu da Baleia (Caniçal) 356 de Arte Antigua Museu Nacional de Arte
Museu dos Biscainhos Museu José Régio Contemporânea – Museu do
(Minho) 55, 283 (Portalegre) 301 Chiado (Lisbon) 95
Museu do Café (Campo Museu Judaico de Belmonte Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Maior) 302 223 (Lisbon) 30–31, 65, 124–5
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Nazaré 15, 186
Museu Nacional dos Coches Presidential Museum (Lisbon) festivals 36
(Lisbon) 105, 106–7 106 hotels 389
Museu Nacional de História Quinta das Cruzes (Funchal) restaurants 403–4
Natural e da Ciência (Lisbon) 352 Negreiros, José de Almada 60,
86 Watch Museum (Serpa) 316 122
Museu Nacional Machado de Music 420–21 Nelson, Admiral Horatio 325
Castro (Coimbra) 202, 211 fado 25, 68–9 Neolithic people 44
Museu Nacional do Teatro Lisbon 130–31 Nepomuceno, João Maria 29
(Lisbon) 127 shops 128–9 Netherlands 54
Museu Nacional do Traje Muslims 46, 52 New Kingdom 48–9
(Lisbon) 127 Al-Mu’tamid 328 New State (Estado Novo) 60
Museu Oceanográfico (Serra The Mystic Marriage of St New Year 37
de Arrábida) 173 Catherine (Holbein) 98 Newspapers 25, 439
Museu de Olaria (Barcelos) Nightlife 421
279 N Lisbon 131
Museu de Ovar 205 Nabão, River 179 Nobre, Miguel 331
Museu do Patriacado (Lisbon) Namban art 99, 101, 116 Northern Portugal 228–87
74 Napoleon I, Emperor 334 Douro and Trás-os-Montes
Museu de Peniche 180 invasion of Portugal 41 238–67
Museu de Pintura e Escultura Peninsular War 58 festivals 232–3
Martins Correia (Golegã) 196 Nasoni, Niccolò golf 426, 427
Museu de Portimão 328 Bom Jesus (Matosinhios) map 230–31
Museu da Região Flaviense 252 Minho 268–87
(Chaves) 262 Casa de Mateus 260 One Week in Northern
Museu Regional do Algarve Igreja dos Clérigos (Porto) Portugal 10, 14
(Faro) 334 247 Porto 242–53
Museu Regional Rainha Dona Igreja dos Clérigos (Vila Real) regional food 236–7
Leonor (Beja) 317 261 Story of Port 234–5
Museu de Rendas (Vila do National Park, Peneda-Gerês Nossa Senhora see Churches;
Conde) 278 230, 269, 270, 276–7 Romarias
Museu Romântico (Porto) itineraries 10, 14 Noudar 316
249 National Tile Museum (Lisbon)
Museu Rural (Ponte de Lima) 30–31, 65, 124–5 O
278 National Tourist Agencies Óbidos 24, 179, 180–81, 182–3
Museu do São Roque 383 festivals 34
(Lisbon) 93, 94 NATO 60 hotels 389
Museu do Scrimshaw (Horta) Natural History Museum itineraries 10, 15
374, 376 (Lisbon) 86 restaurants 404
Museu Soares dos Reis Nature reserves vernacular architecture 26
(Porto) 248–9 Parque Natural do Alvão 240, Óbidos, Lagoa de 181
Museu da Sociedade de 261 Óbidos Castle 49
Geografia (Lisbon) 85, 87 Parque Natural de Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon)
Museu de Tapeçaria Montesinho 241, 266 12, 123
(Portalegre) 301 Parque Natural da Ria Odiaxere, restaurants 412
Museu dos Terceiros (Ponte Formosa 11, 17, 335 The Old Blandy Wine Lodge
de Lima) 278 Parque Natural das Serras de (Funchal) 13, 353
Museu da Terra de Miranda Aire e Candeeiros 186 Olhão 334–5
(Miranda do Douro) 266 Reserva Natural das Dunas de festivals 35
Museu dos Transportes e São Jacinto 207 restaurants 412
Comunicações (Porto) 246 Reserva Natural do Estuário Oliveira do Hospital 218
Museu do Vinho dos do Sado 174–5 Opening hours
Biscoitos (Biscoitos) 371 Reserva Natural do Estuário banks 436
Museu da Vista Alegre 207 do Tejo 169 museums and churches 431
Núcleo Museológico do Reserva Natural do Paúl de restaurants 396
Tempo (Santarém) 197 Boquilobo 195 shops 128, 416
Núcleo Visigótico 317 Reserva Natural do Sapal 337 tourist information offices
Pavilhão do Conhecimento - Reserva Natural da Serra da 430
Ciencia Viva (Lisbon) 123 Malcata 226 Opera 130, 131, 420, 421
Oporto see Porto Palaces (cont.) Parks and gardens (cont.)

Order of Brothers Hospitallers Palácio de Brejoeira 273 Jardim do Palácio de Cristal
307 Palácio dos Condes da (Porto) 249
Order of Christ 49, 53, 191 Calheta (Lisbon) 107 Jardim das Portas do Sol
Convento de Cristo (Tomar) Palácio dos Duques de (Santarém) 197
149, 192–3 Cadaval (Évora) 310 Jardim de Santa Barbara
Cross of the Order of Christ Palácio Foz (Lisbon) 84, 86 (Braga) 282
28–9 Palácio Fronteira (Lisbon) 114, Jardim do Ultramar (Lisbon)
Tomar 190–93 127 see Jardim Agrícola Tropical
see also Knights Templar Palácio de Mafra 56–7, 155, Jardim Zoológico (Lisbon) 126
Order of St Jerome 158 Madeira’s gardens 342–3
(Hieronymites) 108 Palácio dos Marqueses de Monserrate 161
Order of Santiago see Knights Ponte de Lima (Ponte de Monte Palace Tropical
of Santiago Lima) 278 Gardens 354
Oriente Station (Lisbon) 123, Palácio Nacional da Ajuda Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 304
428–9 (Lisbon) 113 Palace Gardens (Estoi) 331
Os Lusíadas (The Lusiads) see Palácio Nacional de Sintra Palácio Fronteira (Lisbon) 127
Camões 148, 162, 164–5 Palácio de Queluz 171
Ourém 190 Palácio da Pena (Sintra) 146– Parque Arqueológico do Vale
hotels 389 7, 166–7 do Côa 267
Ourique, Battle of 46, 47 Palácio Pimenta (Lisbon) 123 Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon)
Outdoor activities 422–7 Palácio de Queluz 31, 57, 148, 12, 117
Outeiro Machado Boulder 263 170–71 Parque da Liberdade (Sintra)
Ovar 31, 204–5 Palácio do Raio (Braga) 282 162
festivals 37 Palácio de São Bento (Lisbon) Parque do Monteiro-Mor
97 (Lisbon) 127
P Palácio de São Lourenço Parque do Mouchão (Tomar)
Pacheco, Lopo Fernandes 76 (Funchal) 350 191
Package deals 441 Pousada de Faro-Palácio de Parque Nacional da Peneda-
Paço see Palaces Estoi 320, 331 Gerês 230, 269, 270, 276–7
Paço d’Arcos, restaurants 402 Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) Parque das Nações (Lisbon)
Paço de São Miguel 310 162 12, 123
Paço de Sousa 254 Palmela 172 Parque da Pena (Sintra) 161,
Paderne, restaurants 412 festivals 36 163
Padrão (stone crosses) 53, 87, hotels 388 Parque Temático de Madeira
110–11 restaurants 402 (Santana) 357
Padrão dos Descobrimentos Panels of St Vincent (Gonçalves) Parque Terra Nostra (São
(Lisbon) see Monument to 99, 100–101 Miguel) 369
the Discoveries Paragliding 423, 425 Praça do Príncipe Real
Pais, Gualdim Parking 445 (Lisbon) 96
Castelo de Almourol 195 Parks and gardens Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro
Penamacor 226 Buçaco 216–17 353
Tomar 190 Casa de Mateus 231, 260–61 see also Nature reserves
tomb 191 Cordoaria Gardens (Porto) 13, Parliament, Palácio de São
Pais, Sidónio 60 242 Bento (Lisbon) 97
Palaces Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 211 Parque see Parks and gardens
Antigo Paço Episcopal Jardim Botânico (Funchal) 13, Parque Nacional see National
(Braga) 282 352 Park
Bussaco Palace 29, 32, 216 Jardim Botânico (Lisbon) 86 Parque Natural see Nature
Carrancas Palace (Porto) 248 Jardim Botânico da Ajuda Reserves
Monserrate 161 (Lisbon) 113 Parreirinha de Alfama (Lisbon
Paço Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 291, Jardim Botânico Tropical fado house) 69
304–5 (Lisbon) 105, 107 Passports 430
Paço dos Duques Jardim Duque da Terceira theft 434
(Guimarães) 286 (Angra do Heroísmo) 371 Pastelarias (cake shops) 397
Palácio de Belém (Lisbon) Jardim Episcopal (Castelo Paúl de Serra 360
105, 106 Branco) 227 Paula, Madre 123
Palácio da Bolsa (Porto) 13, Jardim da Estrela (Lisbon) 97 Pauliteiros 233, 266
246 Jardim do Monte 354 Pavia 307
Pavilhão Carlos Lopes (Parque Pessoa, Fernando 60, 122 Pombal 187
Eduardo VII, Lisbon) 117 statue 95 Pombal (dovecote) 266
Pavilhão do Conhecimento - Peter’s Café Sport (Faial) 376 Pombal, Marquês de
Ciencia Viva (Lisbon) 123 Petrol 444, 445 Avenida da Liberdade
Pedra Bolideira 263 Pharmacies 435 (Lisbon) 86
Pedras talhas (hewn stones) 312 Philip II (Felipe I of Portugal), bans Jesuits 57, 210, 310
Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil 58 King of Spain 43, 106 Coimbra University 57, 212
see also Pedro IV, King Castelo de São Filipe Faro 334
Pedro I, King 42, 48 (Setúbal) 174 Jardim Botânico (Coimbra) 211
Alter do Chão 302 Spanish Armada 54 Jardim Botânico da Ajuda
and Inês de Castro 49, 185, 265 Philip III (Felipe II of Portugal), (Lisbon) 113
tomb 48–9, 184–5 King of Spain 43 Lisbon earthquake 56, 66–7
Pedro II, King 43, 127 Philip IV (Felipe III of Portugal), Lousã 214
deposes Afonso VI 55 King of Spain 43, 221 Monument to Pombal
Serra da Arrábida 173 Philippa of Lancaster 51, 164 (Lisbon) 117
Pedro III, King 43, 170 tomb 189 Museu Nacional de Arte
Pedro IV, King 43, 74 Phoenicians 44 Antiga (Lisbon) 98
abdication 58 Phrase book 479–80 Peso da Régua 256
Palácio de Queluz 170 Picasso, Pablo 218 Pombal 187
statue 87 Pico 340, 366, 374–5 portrait 56
War of the Two Brothers 58 hotels 395 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 89
Pedro V, King 43, 258 restaurants 415 Praça da Figueira (Lisbon) 87
Penafiel 254 Pico Alto 345, 370 reforms 41, 57
Penalvo do Castelo, hotels 390 Pico do Arieiro 13, 346, 357 and the Távora family 113
Penamacor 226 Pico Ruivo 341, 360 tomb 113
Peneda Mountains 276 Pico da Velha 373 Vila Real de Santo António 337
Peneda-Gerês, Parque Nacional Picota 324 Ponsard, Raoul Mesnier du 88
da 230, 269, 270, 276–7 PIDE (secret police) 60 Ponsul, River 227
Penedono 220 Piero della Francesca 100 Ponta Delgada 367, 368
Penela 214 Pilarte, André 336 airport 440
Penhas Douradas, hotels 390 Pilgrimages festivals 34
Penhas de Saúde 224 Bom Jesus do Monte (Braga) 34 Ponta da Piedade 327
Peniche 15, 180 Fátima 34, 36, 190 Ponta Ruiva 326
festivals 35 Pillement, Jean 249 Ponta de São Lourenço 349, 356
hotels 389 Pinhal de Leiria 187 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 60,
restaurants 404 Pinhão 14, 241, 259 116
Peninha 160 hotels 391 Ponte da Barca 14, 273
Península de Tróia 175 Pinheiro, Bishop António 265 restaurants 409
Peninsular War 58, 243 Pinheiro, Columbano Bordalo Ponte de Dom Luís I (Porto) 13,
Almeida 221 219 59, 248–9
Carrancas Palace (Porto) 248 Pinheiro, Rafael Bordalo 181 Ponte de Lima 14, 278
Celorico da Beira 221 Zé Povinho 58 festivals 36
Lagos regiment 327 Pinhel 222 hotels 392
Lines of Torres Vedras 199 Pinto, Fernão Mendes 54, 205 restaurants 409
Museu Militar (Buçaco) 216 Piódão 203, 218 Ponte Marechal Carmona 198
Pensões 380, 381 Pires, Afonso 333 Ponte Romana (Chaves) 263
Pentecost 34 Pires, Diogo 205 Ponte de Vila Formosa 302
Pereira, Afonso 190 Pires, Diogo the Younger 210 Poor Clares 211, 333
Pereira, Fernão 204 Pires, João 279 Porcelain, Museu da Vista
Pereira, Nuno Álvares 189, 190, Pires, Marcos 212 Alegre (Aveiro) 207
262 Pitões da Júnias Monastery 277 Porches, hotels 394
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 94 Pius XI, Pope 76 Port 231, 234–5
Perestrelo, Bartolomeu 363 Places of worship 433 Baron Forrester 258, 259
Pérignon, Dom 319 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian lodges 253
Personal security 434–5 (Lisbon) 107 Peso da Régua 256
Peso da Régua 14, 256, 258 Plants see Flora Port Country Tour 10, 14,
festivals 233 Poço do Inferno 225 258–9
hotels 391 Police 434, 435 Solar do Vinho do Porto
restaurants 408 Politics 22–3 (Lisbon) 96
Port (cont.) Pousadas 380, 383, 384–5, 396 Q

Vila Nova de Gaia (Porto) 253 Pousão, Henrique 249 Queda do Vigário 329
Portalegre 16, 300–301 Póvoa de Varzim 278 Queima das Fitas (Coimbra) 34,
restaurants 411 restaurants 409 213
Portela 357 Praça Afonso de Albuquerque Queirós, Eça de 25, 59
Portimão 17, 328 (Lisbon) 104, 105 Coimbra University 212
hotels 394 Praça de Almeida Garrett statue 92
restaurants 412 (Porto) 245 Queluz, Palácio de 31, 57, 170–
Portinho da Arrábida 173 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon) 12, 71
restaurants 402 74, 83, 89 hotels 388
Porto 10, 14, 15, 22, 230, Lisbon earthquake 66–7 restaurants 402
242–53 Praça da Figueira (Lisbon) 12, Quinta da Alorna 196
airport 440 85, 87 Quinta da Avelada 254
Cathedral District street-by- Praça do Giraldo (Évora) 308, Quinta da Bacalhoa (Serra da
street map 244–5 310 Arrábida) 30, 173
disabled travellers 432 Praça do Império (Lisbon) 104 Quinta das Cruzes (Funchal) 13,
festivals 35, 37, 232 Praça Marquês de Pombal 352
Further Afield 252–3 (Lisbon) 117 Quinta do Lago, restaurants
history 46 Praça do Município (Funchal) 413
hotels 391 351 Quinta da Pacheca 256
map 242–3 Praça do Príncipe Real (Lisbon) Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 353
railway stations 442, 443 96 Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra)
regional food 237 Praça da República (Viana do 162
restaurants 407–8 Castelo) 280
Ribeira district 13, 240, 242 Praça dos Restauradores R
river view of Porto 248–9 (Lisbon) 86 Rabaçal (Beiras) 214
tourist information office 433 street-by-street map 84–5 Rabaçal (Madeira), Rabaçal
travelling in 449 Praia da Adraga 159 Walks 361
Two Days in Porto 12–13 Praia de Arrifana 292, 324 Radio 439
Vila Nova de Gaia 253 Praia dos Barcos 329 Rail travel 442–3
Porto do Abrigo (Sesimbra) 172 Praia do Cabedelo 14, 281 Rainfall 38–9
Porto Covo 318 Praia do Camilo 327 Raphael 100
Porto Moniz 2–3, 362 Praia do Castelejo 292, 325 Rates 278
hotels 395 Praia de Dona Ana 293, 327 Realists 121
Porto de Mós 186 Praia da Galé, restaurants 412 Rebelo, Domingos 368
Porto Santo 22, 347, 363 Praia Grande 159 Reconquest, Christian 46–7, 48
Christopher Columbus on 363 Praia das Maçãs 159 Redondo 306
hotels 395 Praia de Mira 205 hotels 393
map 349 Praia de Monte Clérigo 324 restaurants 411
restaurants 414 Praia de Odeceixe 324 Regeneration 58
Portrait of and Old Man Praia da Oura 329 Régio, José, Museu José Régio
(Rembrandt) 119, 120–21 Praia da Rocha 293, 328 (Portalegre) 301
Portugal Masters 36 Praia de São Rafael 293, 329 Rego, Paula 122
Portugal Pavilion (Lisbon) 123 Praia da Vitória 371 Régua see Peso da Régua
Portugal dos Pequenitos Prainha 356 Reguengos de Monsaraz 313
(Coimbra) 211 Prehistoric Portugal 44–5 Reis, Carlos 195
Portugal’s Islands 338–77 Alentejo 297 Religion 432
Azores 364–77 Megaliths Tour 312 festivals of the North 232–3
Azores: Volcanic Islands Parque Arqueológico do Vale Holy Spirit festivals (Azores)
Rising from the Ocean Bed do Côa 267 372
344–5 Prices see also Cathedrals; Churches;
landscape and flowers of air fares 441 Monasteries and convents
Madeira 342–3 hotels 381 Relvas, Carlos, Casa-Estúdio
Madeira 346–63 rail fares 443 Carlos Relvas (Golegã) 196
map 340–41 Public conveniences 431 Relvas, José 196
travelling around the islands Public holidays 37 Rembrandt, Portrait of and Old
447 Puppets, Museu da Marioneta Man 119, 120–21
Postal services 439 (Lisbon) 95 Renoir, Pierre Auguste 121
Pottery see Ceramics Republic 58–9, 60
Republic Day 37 Road travel 444–5 Rua de São Pedro (Lisbon) 73

Resende, Garcia de, Casa de reckless driving 24 Rua Vieira Portuense (Lisbon)
Garcia de Resende (Évora) see also Buses; Cars; Coaches; 105
309 Cycling; Taxis Rubens, Peter Paul 121
Reserva Natural see Nature Robillion, Jean-Baptiste 148, Rulers of Portugal 42–3
reserves 170–71 Rules of the road 444
Resort accommodation 382 Roch, St (São Roque) 94 Rural accommodation 382, 383
Responsible travel 433 Rocha dos Bardões 377
Restauradores district (Lisbon), Rock music 130–31, 420–21 S
street-by-street map 84–5 Rock paintings 300, 312 Sabor River 238, 241
Restaurants 396–415 Rococo period 31 Sabrosa 14, 259
Alentejo 409–11 Palácio de Queluz 170–71 hotels 392
Algarve 411–13 Rodin, Auguste 95 Sabugal 226
Azores 414–15 Rodrigues, Amália 69, 75, 117, Sado, River 155, 175
Beiras 404–6 127 birds of the Tagus and Sado
cafés and cake shops 397 Rodrigues, Simão 187 estuaries 175
children in 397 Roman Catholic Church 24, Safety 434–5
disabled travellers 396 432, 433 women travellers 432
Douro and Trás-os-Montes Roman Empire 41, 44–5 Sagres 11, 17, 322, 326
406–8 Alentejo 311 hotels 394
eating hours 396 Alter do Chão 302 restaurants 413
Estremadura and Ribatejo Centrum Cellas (Belmonte) 223 Sailing 422, 425
403–4 Cerro da Vila (Vilamoura) 330 St Jerome (Dürer) 98, 100
Lisbon 398–401 Cetóbriga 175 St Leonard (della Robbia) 98
Lisbon Coast 401–3 Chaves 263 St Peter (Grão Vasco) 219
Madeira 413–14 Coimbra 208 Salazar, António 22, 41, 43
menus 396 Conimbriga 44–5, 214 Beja 317
Minho 408–9 Milreu (Estoi) 331 Belém (Lisbon) 104
paying the bill 397 Minho 269 car 218
reservations 396 Miróbriga 318 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon)
smoking 397 Núcleo Romano (Mértola) 319 80
types of restaurant 396 Roman bridge (Ponte de Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116
vegetarians 397 Lima) 278 New State 60
wine and drinks 397 Roman temple (Évora) 45, 308 Paço dos Duques
Restoration 54–5 São Cucufate 316 (Guimarães) 286
Revolutions Vila Cardílio 195 Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 116
1820 58 Romarias (religious festivals) 24, Salt
1910 58–9 233 Alcochete 169
Carnation 22, 41, 60–61 Nossa Senhora da Agonia Aveiro 206–7
Ria de Aveiro 15, 206, 207 (Viana do Castelo) 35, 233, 281 Salvi, Nicola 94
Ria Formosa, Parque Natural da Nossa Senhora da Nazaré Sameiro 283
335 (Nazaré) 36 Sancha, Dona 264
Ribatejo see Estremadura and Nossa Senhora dos Remedios Sanches, Rui 122
Ribatejo (Lamego) 36, 257 Sancho I, King 42, 48
Ribeira Brava 363 Romeu 263 Bragança 264
restaurants 414 restaurants 408 Coimbra 210
Ribeira district (Porto) 13, 240, Romney, George 121 gold cross 49, 101
242 Roriz 254 Guarda 223
Ribeira Grande 368 Rosa, Euclides Silveira da 376 Marialva 220
Ribeira da Janela 361 Rossio (Lisbon) 62–3, 85, 87 Montemor-o-Novo 307
Ribeiro, António 95 Rossio station (Lisbon) 59, 84 Palmela 172
Ribeiro Frio 13, 357 Roupinho, Dom Fuas 186 tomb 211
Ricardo do Espíito Santo Silva Rua do Aljube (Funchal) 351 Valença do Minho 272
Foundation (Lisbon) 74 Rua Augusta (Lisbon) 88 Sancho II, King 42
Rio Mau 278 Rua do Carmo (Lisbon) 93 Crato 301
Rio de Onor 266 Rua das Flores (Porto) 244 deposed 48
Risco Waterfall 361 Rua Garrett (Lisbon) 92, 94, 95 Elvas 303
River view of Porto 248–9 Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Estremoz 306
Road numbers 445 (Lisbon) 85 Sesimbra 172
Sanfins de Ferreira 254 Sé see Cathedrals Severa, Maria 68, 75

Santa Cruz (Flores) 377 Seara 277 Seyrig, Teófilo 59
Santa Cruz da Graciosa 373 Sebastião, King 43, 50–51, 100, Sheepdog of the Serra 225
Santa Cruz quarter (Lisbon) 220 Ships
80–81 expedition to Morocco 50–51 Age of Discovery 53
Santa Maria (Azores) 365, 370 tomb 109 ferries 444, 445, 447
restaurants 415 Security 434–5 Museu de Marinha (Lisbon)
Santa Maria da Feira 204 Seia 224 110
Santana 13, 347, 357 Seixal 362 Shoe shops 418, 419
restaurants 414 festivals 36 Shopping 416–19
triangular houses 357 Seixas, José Figueiredo 248 antiques 419
Santana Lopes, Pedro Miguel Semana do Mar (Horta) 35 ceramics 417, 419
de 43 Sendim, restaurants 408 clothing and shoes 418, 419
Santarém 197 Senhora da Rocha (beach) 293 crafts 417
festivals 35, 36 Senior travellers 432 how to pay 128, 416
restaurants 404 Sepúlveda, General 265 Lisbon 128–9
Santiago do Cacém 318 Sequeira, Domingos António markets 416–17, 419
restaurants 411 de 100 opening hours 128, 416
Santo André, Lagoa de 318 Sernancelhe 220 regional produce 419
Santo António (Lisbon) 35 Serpa 11, 16, 299, 316 shopping centres 128, 129,
Santo Espírito, Festas do 34, 372 history 48 416, 419
Santo Espírito (Santa Maria) 370 hotels 393 tax-free goods 128, 416
Santo Tirso 254 restaurants 411 wines and spirits 418, 419
Santos, Argentina 69 Serpa Pinto, Captain 59 Silva, Felipe da, Tree of Jesse
Santos, Lucia 190 Serra de Açor 203, 218 (Porto) 247
Santuário see Churches Serra da Arrábida 154, 155, 172, Silva, Dom Pero da 324
São Bartolomeu do Mar 233 173 Silva, Ricardo do Espírito Santo
São Bento Station (Porto) 12, map 173 72
245 Serra do Barroso 262 Silva Meira, Domingos da 331
São Cucufate (Roman site) 316 Serra cheese 221, 224 Silves 11, 17, 47, 328–9
São João festival (Porto) 35, Serra do Cume 371 festivals 35
232 Serra da Estrela 149, 201, 224–5 hotels 394
São João de Pesqueira 259 map 224–5 restaurants 413
São Jorge (Azores) 373 Serra cheese 221 Silves, Diogo de 52
restaurants 415 sheepdog 225 Silvestri, Silvestro 248
São Lourenço Peninsula 258–9 what to eat 152–3 Sines 318
São Mamede, Battle of 47 Serra do Marão 256 Sintra 148, 162–7
São Martinho do Porto 178, 186 Serra da Marofa 222 festivals 35, 36
São Miguel (Azores) 341, 368–9 Serra de Monchique 11, 17, 324 hotels 388
festivals 34 Serra de Montemuro 37, 255 map 163
hotels 395 Serra de Santa Bárbara 371 Moorish Portugal 46, 47
map 368–9 Serra de São Mamede 16, 300 Palácio Nacional de Sintra
restaurants 415 Serra de Sintra 155 164–5
São Miguel (Minho) 273 Serra de Sintra Tour 160–61 Palácio de Pena 166–7
São Pedro festival (Lisbon) 35 Serres, J.T., The Torre de Belém in restaurants 402–3
São Pedro de Muel 187 1811 112 Serra de Sintra tour 161
São Rafael, Praia de 293, 329 Sesimbra 157, 172 Sintra, Treaty of 57
São Vicente (Madeira) 13, 362 festivals 37 Sisinando, Governor 210, 214
São Vicente, Cabo de 325 hotels 388 Sítio 186
Saramago, José 75 restaurants 402 Sixtus II, Pope 330
Sardoal 194 Sete Cidades, Lagoa das 364, Size chart 418
Sarmento, Martins 287 368 Skydiving 423, 425
Saudade 23, 25, 68 Sete Fontes (São Jorge, Azores) Smoking, in restaurants 397
Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Duke of 373 Soajo 276, 277
see Ferdinand of Saxe- Seteais 161 Soares, Mário 43, 61
Coburg-Gotha Setúbal 174 Soares da Silva, André
Scarlatti, Domenico 99 hotels 388 Câmara Municipal (Braga) 282
Science Museum (Lisbon) 86 restaurants 402 Nossa Senhora da Agonia
Scrimshaw 374, 376 wines 32–3 (Viana do Castelo) 281
Soares da Silva, André (cont.) Stone Age see Prehistoric Terena 22, 306
Nossa Senhora da Lapa Portugal Teresa, Dona (mother of
(Ponte da Barca) 273 Stoop, Dirk 123 Afonso Henriques) 47, 215
Palácio do Raio (Braga) 282 Stuart, Charles 58 tomb 282
Santa Maria Madalena Student traditions (Coimbra) Terras de Basto 287
(Falperra) 283 213 Terreiro do Paço (Lisbon) see
Soares dos Reis, António 248 Student travellers 432, 433 Praça do Comércio
O Desterrado 248, 249 Suevi tribe 44, 45, 269 Terreiro da Sé (Porto) 244
Sobreiro 158 Conimbriga 214 Terrugem, restaurants 411
Socialist Party 61 Porto 249 Terzi, Filippo 54, 74
Sociedade de Geografia, Sugar cane 362 Textiles
Museu da (Lisbon) 85, 87 Summer 35 Museu Nacional do Traje
Sócrates Carvalho Pinto de Sunshine 38–9 (Lisbon) 127
Sousa, José 43, 61 Surfing 422, 425 shops 417
Solar dos Pinheiros (Barcelos) Synagogues Theatres 420, 421
279 Castelo de Vide 301 Lisbon 130, 131
Solar do Vinho do Porto religious services 433 Museu Nacional do Teatro
(Lisbon) 96 Tomar 191 (Lisbon) 127
Solomon, King of Israel 247 Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II
Sortelha 226 T (Lisbon) 85, 87, 130, 131, 378
restaurants 405 Tagus, River 21, 155, 198 Teatro Nacional de São Carlos
Soult, Marshal 248, 255 Belém (Lisbon) 103 (Lisbon) 95, 130, 131
Sousa, Aurélia de 265 birds of the Tagus and Sado Theme parks
Sousa, River 254 estuaries 175 Parque Temático de Madeira
Southern Portugal 288–337 estuary 169 (Santana) 357
Alentejo 296–319 Ponte 25 de Abril 116 Portugal dos Pequenitos
Algarve 320–37 Santarém 197 (Coimbra) 211
beaches of the Algarve 292–3 Vila Franca de Xira 198 Theodomir, King of the Suevi
golf 426–7 Tâmega, River 255, 261, 262, 287 249
map 290–91 Tangier 50 Thermal spas 215
One Week in Southern Tascas (taverns) 396 Caldas de Monchique 325
Portugal 11, 17 Tavares (Lisbon) 92 Castelo de Vide 301
regional food 294–5 Tavira 11, 17, 26, 336 Chaves 262, 263
Souza-Cardoso, Amadeo de, hotels 394 Luso 215
Museu Amadeo de Souza- restaurants 413 Vidago 263
Cardoso (Amarante) 255 Tavira, Ilha de 336 “Thieves Market” (Lisbon) 75,
Spain beach 293 417
historical relations with 48–55 Távora, River 220 Tiago, São 47
Spanish Armada 54 Távora family 113, 263 Tickets
Spanish rule 54–5 Taxes, Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment 130, 131
Spas see Thermal spas 416 Lisbon transport 448
Special needs, travellers with Taxis rail travel 443
431–2, 433 in cities 449 Tiles 25, 30–31
Specialist holidays 422–7 disabled travellers 432 Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Speed limits 444 Madeira and the Azores 447 (Lisbon) 30–31, 65, 124–5
Spice trade 53 Teatro see Theatres Time
Spirits, shopping for 128, 129, Teixeira, Tristão Vaz 356 attitude to 24
418, 419 Telephone services 438 time zones 432
Sports Television 25, 439 Tipping, in restaurants 397
Lisbon 131 Telheiro 326 Toboggan, Monte 354
outdoor activities and Temperatures 38–9 Todi, Luísa 174
specialist holidays 422–7 Templars see Knights Templar Toilets 431
Spring 34 The Temptations of St Antony Tolls, motorway 445
Sri Lanka 53 (Bosch) 98, 100 Tomar 149, 179, 190–93
Staircase of the Five Senses (Bom Tennis 424, 425 Convento de Cristo 192–3
Jesus do Monte) 230, 284 Tennyson, Alfred, Lord 377 festivals 35
Staircase of the Three Virtues Terceira 340, 370–71 hotels 389
(Bom Jesus do Monte) 285 hotels 395 restaurants 404
Stick dancing 233 restaurants 415 Tonel 326
Tordesillas, Treaty of 50 Travel (cont.) Velas 373

Torralva, Diogo de 192 road 444–5 Velho, João 280–81
Torre 224 taxis 447, 449 Vernacular architecture 26–7
Torre de Anto (Coimbra) 209 trams 448 Vespasian, Emperor 45
Torre de Aspa 325 Traveller’s cheques 436 Vetaça, Dona 210
Torre de Belém (Lisbon) 12, 64, Tree of Jesse (Porto) 247 Vez, River 273
112 Triangular houses of Santana Viana, Eduardo 122
The Torre de Belém in 1811 357 Viana do Alentejo 16, 313
(Serres) 112 Tristão, Nuno 326 Viana do Castelo 14, 230, 280–
Torre dos Clérigos (Porto) 13, Tróia peninsula see Península 81
247 de Tróia festivals 35, 233
Torre de Menagem (Beja) 317 Tua 259 hotels 392
Torre de Moncorvo 267 River 263 restaurants 409
restaurants 408 Turismo no Espaço Rural 382 street-by-street map 280–81
Torre Vasco da Gama (Lisbon) Turismos de Habitação 382 Vicente, Gil 51, 194
123 Turner, JMW 121 Belém Monstrance 28
Torreira 207 Turriano, João 211 statue of 87
Torres Novas 195 Turtles 375 Vicente, Dom Lourenço 282
Torres Vedras 199 Two Bishop-Saints (Master of Vicente, Mateus 77, 170
festivals 37 Sardoal) 309, 310 Victoria, Queen of England 167
Lines of Torres Vedras 199 Vidago 263
restaurants 404 U hotels 392
Tourist information offices 430, Ucanha 257 Vidigueira 25, 316
433 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Vieira, Álvaro Siza 94, 123
Tourist police 435 Alcobaça 184–5 Vieira, António 54
Tourist villages 382 Angra do Heroísmo 370 Vieira da Silva, Maria Helena
Tours by car Batalha 188 218
Border Castles Tour 222 Coimbra University 212–13 View of the Molo with the Ducal
Megaliths Tour 312 Elvas 302–3 Palace (Guardi) 121
Port Country Tour 258–9 Évora 308 Vila do Bispo 325
Serra de Sintra Tour 160–61 Guimarães 286 Vila Cardílio 195
Trains see Rail travel Madeira’s laurel forest 347 Vila do Conde 270, 278
Trajan, Emperor 214, 263 Porto 242 hotels 392
Trams 448 Pico’s vineyards 375 Vila do Corvo (Corvo) 377
Museu do Carro Eléctrico Sintra 162 Vila de Frades, restaurants 411
(Porto) 252 Universities Vila Franca de Xira 198
Trancoso 220 Coimbra 15, 57, 149, 212–13 festivals 35, 36
Trás-os-Montes see Douro and Évora 310 hotels 389
Trás-os-Montes Urzelina 373 restaurants 404
Travel 440–49 Vila Nogueira de Azeitão 173
air 440–41, 447 V Vila Nova de Cerveira 272
Alentejo 299 Valeira dam 259 Vila Nova de Gaia 13, 248, 252,
Algarve 323 Valença do Minho 272 253, 258
around the islands 447 hotels 392 map 253
Azores 367, 447 restaurants 409 Vila Nova de Milfontes 318
Beiras 203 Valerian, Emperor 330 restaurants 411
buses 448 Valezim 224 Vila do Porto 370
in cities 448–9 Value Added Tax (VAT) 416 Vila Praia de Âncora 281
coaches 446, 447 Vandals 45 Vila Real 14, 261
Douro and Trás-os-Montes Vanvitelli, Luigi 94 hotels 392
241 Vasco, Grão see Grão Vasco restaurants 408
Estremadura and Ribatejo 178 Vasco da Gama Bridge (Lisbon) Vila Real de Santo António 337
ferries 444, 445, 447 116 hotels 394
funiculars 448 Vasconcelos, Martim Mendes Vila do Touro 226
insurance 435 352 Vila Viçosa 11, 16, 291, 304–5
Lisbon Coast 157 Vauban, Sébastien le Prestre de hotels 393
Madeira 447 222, 272, 303 Vilalobos, Maria 76
Minho 271 Vaz, Gaspar 219 Vilamoura 23, 330
rail 442–3 Vegetarians 397 hotels 395
Vilamoura (cont.) Waterfalls (cont.) Wildlife (cont.)

restaurants 413 Risco Waterfall 361 Serra de São Mamede
Vilarinho das Furnas 276 Watteau, Antoine 121 300
Villages, tourist 382 Wavrin, Jean de 51 whale watching 374–5, 424,
Vímara Peres 46 Way of life 23–4 425
Vincent, St 48, 74 Weather 38–9, 430 see also Birds
Cabo de São Vicente 325 Wellesley, Sir Arthur see Windmills 27
Panels of St Vincent 100–101 Wellington, Duke of Windsor, Treaty of 50
relics 76 Wellington, Duke of Windsurfing 422, 425
Sé (Lisbon) 76 Abrantes 194 Wine
Vineyards see Port; Wine Almeida 221 Casa de Mateus 10, 14,
Vinhais 266 Battle of Buçaco 58, 216 260–61
Vinho verde 32, 33, 237, 254, Carrancas Palace (Porto) 248 Central Portugal 153
273 Elvas 303 Colares 159
Vintage port 235 Figueira da Foz 205 Jose Maria de Fonseca (Vila
Vinte e Cinco Fontes (Madeira) Lines of Torres Vedras 199 Nogueira de Azeitão) 173
346, 361 Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Madeira wine 355
Viriatus 44 (Porto) 252 Mateus rosé 32, 260
Visas 430 Peninsular War 57, 58 Museu do Vinho dos
Viseu 219 portrait 199 Biscoitos (Biscoitos) 371
hotels 390 Weyden, Rogier van der 246 Northern Portugal 237
restaurants 405–6 Bust of St Catherine(?) 118, 120 Old Blandy Wine Lodge
Visigoths 44, 45, 46, 269 Whales (Funchal) 353
Núcleo Visigótico (Mértola) Caniçal 356 in restaurants 397
319 Museu do Scrimshaw (Horta) shopping for 128, 129, 418,
Vista Alegre 207 374, 376 419
Vista do Rei 368 In Pursuit of the Whale 374–5 Southern Portugal 295
Viúva Lamego tile factory whale watching 374–5, 424, Story of Port 234–5
(Lisbon) 31 425 Vinho verde 32, 33, 237, 254,
Volcanoes whaling 374 273
Azores 344–5 Wheelchair access see Disabled Wine Festival (Funchal) 36
Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa) travellers wines of Portugal 32–3
373 Wi-Fi 439 see also Port
Vulcão dos Capelinhos 376 Wickerwork, Camacha 354 Winter 37
Voltaire 67 Wildlife Women travellers 432
Vulcão dos Capelinhos 376 Berlenga Islands 180 World of Discoveries 246
Cabo de São Vicente 325 World music 130, 131
W Marine Life in the Azores 375 World War I 60
Walking 423, 425 Mértola 319 Memorial (Lisbon) 86
in cities 448 Parque Natural do Alvão 261 World War II 60
levadas 360 Parque Natural de
Madeira and the Azores 447 Montesinho 266 Y
Rabaçal Walks 361 Parque Natural da Ria Yacht Marina (Funchal)
Wamba, King 227 Formosa 335 350
War of Independence (War of Parque Natural das Serras de Youth hostels 382
Restoration) 54–5, 303 Aire e Candeeiros 186
Estremoz 306 In Pursuit of the Whale 374–5 Z
Moura 316 Reserva Natural das Dunas de Zacuto, Abraham 191
Praça dos Restauradores São Jacinto 207 Zambujeira do Mar 319
(Lisbon) 84 Reserva Natural do Estuário Zamora, Treaty of 47
War of the Two Brothers 58, do Sado 174–5 Zarco, João Gonçalves
306, 329 Reserva Natural do Estuário Funchal 352
Water, drinking 397 do Tejo 169 Madeira 347, 356
Water sports 422, 425 Reserva Natural do Sapal monument to 350
Waterfalls 337 Zé Povinho (Pinheiro) 58
Cascata da Ribeira Grande Reserva Natural da Serra da Zêzere, River 194, 225
338–9, 377 Malcata 226 Zoos, Jardim Zoológico
Fisgas de Ermelo 261 Serra da Arrábida 173 (Lisbon) 126
Queda do Vigário 329 Serra de Monchique 324 Zurbarán, Francisco 196
476  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Additional Illustrations
people whose contributions and assistance have made Richard Bonson, Chris Forsey, Chris Orr, Mel Pickering,
the preparation of this book possible. Nicola Rodway.
Consultant Revisions Team

Martin Symington was born and brought up in Portugal. Gillian Allan, Douglas Amrine, Emma Anacootee, Gillian Andrews,
A freelance travel writer, he is the author of New Essential Avanika, Claire Baranowski, Paul Bernhardt, Uma Bhattacharya,
Portugal (AA), and has contributed to Eyewitness Great Tessa Bindloss, Julie Bond, Neha Chander, Vivien Crump, Alyse Dar,
Britain and Eyewitness Seville and Andalusia. He writes Surya Deogan, Joy FitzSimmons, Anna Freiberger, Camilla Gersh,
extensively on Portugal and is a regular contributor to Roger Green, Swati Gupta, Mark Harding, Vinod Harish,
the Daily Telegraph, Sunday Telegraph and other British Mohammad Hassan, Paul Hines, Jasneet Kaur, Zafar ul Islam Khan,
national newspapers. Sumita Khatwani, Priya Kukadia, Vincent Kurien, Esther Labi,
Kathryn Lane, Michelle de Larrabeiti, Felicity Laughton, Jason Little,
Contributors Carly Madden, Hayley Maher, Nicola Malone, Helen Markham,
Susie Boulton studied history of art at Cambridge. She is a Caroline Mead, Rebecca Mills, Robert Mitchell, Adam Moore,
freelance travel writer and author of Eyewitness Venice and Helena Nogueira, David Noonan, Rakesh Kumar Pal, Garima
the Veneto. Pandey, Susie Peachey, Alice Peebles, Helen Peters, Marianne
Petrou, Adrian Potts, Andrea Powell, Tom Prentice, Rada Radojicic,
Christopher Catling is a freelance travel writer and author of Mani Ramaswamy, Andrew Ribeiro-Hargreave, Akshay Rana, Lucy
Madeira (AA) and Eyewitness Florence & Tuscany. He also Richards, Ellen Root, Azeem Siddiqui, Sands Publishing Solutions,
contributed to Eyewitness Italy and Eyewitness Great Britain. Sadie Smith, Alison Stace, Roseen Teare, Amanda Tomeh, Helen
Townsend, Tomas Tranaeus, Vinita Venugopal, Fiona Wild.
Marion Kaplan has written for a wide range of magazines
and newspapers. She has lived in Portugal and wrote The Index
Portuguese (Viking/Penguin 1992). She also contributed to Hilary Bird, Helen Peters.
the Berlitz Travellers Guide to Portugal.
Additional Photography
Sarah Mcalister is a freelance editor and writer for Time Out Paul Bernhardt, Steve Gorton/DK Studio, John Heseltine, Dave
guides and has spent much time in Lisbon and the surrounding King, Martin Norris, Ian O’ Leary, Jorge Morgado, Roger Phillips,
area. Rough Guides/Eddie Gerald, Rough Guide/ Natascha Sturny,
Clive Streeter, Matthew Ward.
Alice Peebles is a freelance editor and writer and has worked
on several Eyewitness Travel Guides. Photographic and Artwork Reference
Steven Evans, Nigel Tisdall.
Carol Rankin was born in Portugal. As an art historian, she
Special Assistance
has lectured extensively on Portuguese art and architecture
and has acted as consultant for various cultural projects. Emília Tavares, Arquivo Nacional de Fotografia, Lisboa; Luísa
Cardia, Biblioteca Nacional e do Livro, Lisboa; Marina Gonçalves
Joe Staines is a freelance writer and co-author of Exploring and Aida Pereira, Câmara Municipal de Lisboa; Caminhos de
Rural Portugal (Helm). Ferro Portugueses; Carris, Lisboa; Enatur, Lisboa; Karen Ollier-
Spry, John E Fells and Sons Ltd; Maria Fátima Moreira, Fundação
Robert Strauss is a travel writer and publisher. He worked Bissaya-Barreto, Coimbra; Maria Helena Soares da Costa,
Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisboa; João Campilho, Fun-
for the Luso-British Institute in Porto and has written
dação da Casa de Bragança, Lisboa; Pilar Serras and José Aragão,
several titles for Lonely Planet and Bradt Publications.
ICEP, London; Instituto do Vinho de Porto, Porto; Simoneta
Afonso, IPM, Lisboa; Mário Abreu, Dulce Ferraz, IPPAR, Lisboa;
Nigel Tisdall is a freelance journalist who has written many
Pedro Moura Bessa and Eduardo Corte-Real, Livraria Civilização
articles on the Azores. He also contributed to France, Spain
Editora, Porto; Metropolitano de Lisboa; Raquel Florentino and
and California in the Eyewitness Travel Guide series.
Cristina Leite, Museu da Cidade, Lisboa; João Castel Branco G
Pereira, Museu Nacional do Azulejo, Lisboa; Turihab, Ponte de
Edite Vieira has written many books on Portuguese food
Lima; Ilídio Barbosa, Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra; Teresa
including The Taste of Portugal (Grub Street). She is a member
Chicau at the tourist office in Évora, Conceição Estudante at the
of the Guild of Food Writers and broadcasts regularly for the
tourist office in Funchal and the staff at all the other tourist
BBC World Service.
offices and town halls in Portugal.
Additional Contributors
Photography Permissions
Dr Giray Ablay, Paul Bernhardt, Julie Dawn Fox, Mihaela
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for their
Rogalski, Gerry Stanbury, Paul Sterry, Paul Vernon.
assistance and kind permission to photograph at their
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  477
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Aitken 236cla; David Wingate 447cla; Z1 Collection 42bc; Aldeia 20; Iralis 146-7; Inge Hogenbijl 25t; Juliane Jacobs 154; Wieslaw
da Fonte Hotel: 415bl; Arquivo Nacional De Fotografia- Jarek 35tr; Wangkun Jia 131tl; Jorisvo 210cl; Joyfull 37t;
Instituto Português De Museus, Lisboa: Museu Nacional De Keantian 343crb; Sergey Kelin 64cl; Denis Kelly 65bl; Kvintet
Arte Antiga/Pedro Ferreira 100tr, 101t (all); Francisco Matias 53tl; 343bl; Brian Lasenby 335crb; Martin Lehmann 23b, 85br, 104tr;
Carlos Monteiro 50cla; Luís Pavão 43tl, 56clb, 57ca, 64tr, 98bl/br, Peter Lovás 73bc, 440crb; Lsantilli 182-3; Luisafonso 364;
99bc, 101c; José Pessoa 28bl, 29tr, 49ca, 53cra, 54tr, 55tc/clb, Dariusz Majgier 64br; Rui Matos 22bl; Mikelane45 175br;
98tr, 99ca/cr, 100bl, 101br; Museu Nacional Do Azulejo Painel De Miragik 342br; Moedas1 293c; Carol R Montoya 342crb;
Azulejos Composição Geométrica, 1970, Raul Lino-Fábrica Naturefriend 342bl; Neirfy 25bl; Orxystock 358–9; Photogolfer
Cerâmica Constância 31tr; Francisco Matias 30b; José Pessoa 427tl; Inacio Pires 10c, 16br, 314-5; Rui Pires 228-9; Pp1 342clb;
30cra/31cb/bl; Colecções Arquivo Nacional De Fotografia/San Pstedrak 343cb (1); Luca Quadrio 377bl; Vítor Ribeiro 14br,
Payo 43tr; Igreja De São Vicente De Fora/Carlos Monteiro 43bl; 246cl, 274-5; Stewart Rigby 435ca; Mauro Rodrigues 37br;
Museu Nacional Dos Coches/José Pessoa 43bc, 103bl, 105bl, Saiko3p 206b, 245br, 246br, 249cr, 428-429, 431br; Sam74100
150br, 151b (all); Henrique Ruas 106bl; Museu Nacional De 96b; Rui G. Santos 435c; Miyuki Satake 342bc; Schlenger86
Arqueologia/José Pessoa 45ca/cb, 107c; Museu Monográfico De 89br; Richard Semik 5tc, 296; Luis Lopes Silva 325cr; Sohadiszno
Conimbriga 45tl; Museu De Mértola/Paulo Cintra 46cl; Igreja 93crb; Jose I. Soto 176; TasFoto 243tl, 245cr; Anibal Trejo 340cr,
Matriz Santiago Do Cacém/José Rubio 47tl; José Pessoa 49tl; 370cr; Ferenc Ungor 117tl; Vallefrias 177; Vanessak 346;
Biblioteca Da Ajuda/José Pessoa 48cla; Museu De São Roque/ Véronique Lestoy 356bl; Whiskybottle 343cb; Xantana 243br,
Abreu Nunes 51tl; Museu Grão Vasco/José Pessoa 52bl; 250-251, Zhykharievavlada 126tr, Zts 31cl, 130br, 247br.
Universidade De Coimbra, Gabinete De Física/José Pessoa 56tr;
Museu De Cerâmica Das Caldas Da Rainha/José Pessoa 58cla; Espaço Talassa: Gerard Soury 374bl; ET Archive: Naval
Museu Do Chiado 59tl; Col. Jorge De Brito/José Pessoa 66-7t; Col. Museum, Genoa 363br; Wellington Museum 199bc; European
478  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Commission: 437; Greg Evans International: Greg Balfour Pena: 166cla; Palacio Estoril Hotel Golf & Spa: 380cr, 388br;
Evans 293br; Mary Evans Picture Library: 55bl, 67tr, 167bl, Fotografia Cedida Y Autorizada Por El Patrimonio Nacional:
217br; Expo ‘98: 61ca. 46cb; Pictures Colour Library: 416cl; Porto Santo Golfe: Filipe
Pacheco 427cr; Pousadas De Portugal/Grupo Pestana: 384–5
Fotolia: Carson Liu 14tr; ruigsantos 11tr; Mario Savoia 13tl; Jose all, 396cla, 401tl, 402t, 404bl, 406tl, 409tr, 410b, 413br, 415tc;
Ignacio Soto 62-3; Fototeca Internacional, Lisboa: Luís Elvas PraiaGolfe Hotel: 391br.
37cl, 150tr/cr; César Soares 42bl; Luíz O Franquinho/António
Da Costa: 343clb; Fundaçao Da Casa De Bragança: 304t/c/b, Radio Televisão Portuguesa (RTP): 58tr, 59clb, 60tr; RCL,
305bl; Fundaçao Da Casa De Mateus: Nicholas Sapieha 260b; Parede: Rui Cunha 35cl, 131t, 342cr, 343cr, 345cra, 371c,
Fundação Ricardo Do Espírito Santo Silva, Museu-Escola De 372br, 383; Dias Dos Reis: 123tl; Norman Renouf: 380bl, 385b;
Artes Decorativas Portuguesas: 74c. Relais & Chateaux: 399tr; Restaurant Camafeu: 407tr; Reuters:
Marcos Borga 420br; Rex Features: Sipa Press/Michel Ginies
Jorge Galvaõ: 61clb; Geadas Restaurant: 406br; Gerry and 61bl; Manuel Ribeiro: 30t; Riso Restaurant: 397tl, 414tr;
Manuela Breen’s Algarve Airsports Centre: 423br; Getty Images: Rodonorte: 446cla.
AFP/Francisco Leong 434bc; Allsport: Mike Powell 61crb; Paulo
Amorim 261br; DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI 43tl, 50clb, 108br; DEA / S. Harry Smith Horticultural Photographic Collection: 343cla;
VANNINI 167tl; Pedro Gomes 130cr; John Harper 185tl; Richard Solar do Vinho do Porto: 258b; Spectrum Colour Library:
Heathcote 427c; Lonely Planet Images/Holger Leue 353cl; Print 242tr; Tony Stone Images: Tony Arruza 34ca; Shaun Egan 292b;
Collector 47bl; STRINGER / Stringer 60br; Giraudon: 52cla; Graham Finlayson 45crb; Simeone Huber 290bl; John Lawrence
Warren Little 36tl; Guarda Nacional Republicana: 434br. 35br; Ulli Seer 323tl; SuperStock: Album / Oronoz / Album
46-47c; age fotostock/André Gonçalves 16tr, /Igor Gonzalo Sanz
Robert Harding Picture Library: 21b; Jose Antonio Moreno 378-9, /João Almeida 238; Design Pics 331tr; Prisma/Pepper
87bl; Herdade da Retorta: 393br; Hotel Britania: 386bl; Hotel 15tl; Symington Port and Madeira Shippers: Claudio Capone
Convento de Sao Paulo: 411tl; Hotel Do Chiado: 382bl: Hotel 33cl, 235t/cla/bc.
Lusitano: 389tr; Kit Houghton: 36b.
TAP Air Portugal:441tr; Tia Alice Restaurant: 403br; Nigel
Images Colour Library: 232bc; IMAGES OF PORTUGAL: 426cl; Tisdall: 345tl, 368, 369crb, 370tl, 373tl/br, 376c/b; Topham
iStockphoto.com: zulufriend 421tl; José Maria da Fonseca – Picture Source: 60cra; Arquivos Nacionais/Torre Do Tombo:
Vinhos SA: 32tr; Marion Kaplan: 150cla, 233tr/cr; Laurentina 40, 48clb, 273bl; Turihab: Roger Day 382tl.
Restaurante: 401bc; Lusa: António Cotrim 69ca; André Kosters
95tl; Manuel Moura 60cb, 363tl; Luís Vasconcelos 94br. Uva Restaurant at Hotel The Vine: 414bl; Veneza
Restauarant: 412tl; Villa Joya/XN Brand Dynamics: 396bl;
José Manuel: 67br; António Marques: 302clb, 303b; Vintage Lofts: 390tl; Peter Wilson: 34br, 35tr, 60bl, 86tl, 95bl,
Metropolitano De Lisboa: 448cr; John Miller: 29b; Museu 232tr/cl; Wyse Travel Confederation: 432b; The Yeatman
Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisboa: Enamelled Silver Gilt Corsage Restaurant: 408tl.
Ornament, René Lalique © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2011
118ca, 118tr/cb/b, 119t/ca/cb/bl, 120tr/c/bl, 121tr/clb/br; Jacket
Museu Da Cidade, Lisboa: António Rafael 66bl/br; 67cr/bl; Front and Spine – AWL Images: Sabine Lubenow; Back –
Museu Da Marinha, Lisboa: 42br, 60cl, 110b. Dreamstime.com: Sean Pavone.
National Maritime Museum, London: 54cla; Nationalmuseet, Front Endpaper: Juliane Jacobs lcr; Alamy Images: Cro
Copenhagen: 52tr; Naturepress: Juan Hidalgo-Candy Lopesino Magnon rcr; Hideo Kurihara ltr; Wilmar Photography lcr;
36tl; NHPA: Michael Leach 375crb; Jean-Louis Le Moigne 335cr. Corbis: Jose Fuste Raga rbr; Robert Harding World Imagery/
Stuart Forster lbr; Dreamstime.com: Luisafonso lc; Richard
Oceanario De Lisboa: Mafalda Frade 12br; Oporto Golf Club: Semik rbc.; Jose I. Soto rc; Vanessak lcl; SuperStock: age
426br; Orient-Express Services Ltd: 381b, 395tl. fotostock/João Almeida Rtr.
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PHRASE BOOK  479
Phrase Book
In an Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Socorro! soo-koh-roo I’d like to place an Queria fazer kree-uh fuh-zehr
Stop! Pare! pahr’ international call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-
Call a doctor! Chame um shahm’ ooñ internacional. mah-duh in-ter-
na-see-oo-nahl’
médico! meh-dee-koo a local call. uma chamada oo-muh sha-mah-
Call an ambulance! Chame uma shahm’ oo-muh local. duh loo-kahl’
ambulância! añ-boo-lañ-see-uh Can I leave Posso deixar uma poh-soo day-
Call the police! Chame a shahm’ uh a message? mensagem? shar oo-muh
polícia! poo-lee-see-uh meñ-sah--jayñ
Call the fire brigade! Chame os shahm’ oosh
bombeiros! bom-bay-roosh Shopping
Where is the nearest Há um telefone ah ooñ te-le-fon’ How much Quanto kwañ-too koosh-
telephone? aqui perto? uh-kee pehr-too does this cost? custa isto? tuh eesh-too
Where is the nearest Onde é o ond’ eh oo ohsh- I would like… Queria… kree-uh
hospital? hospital mais pee-tahl’ mysh I’m just Estou só a ver shtoh soh uh vehr
looking. obrigado/a. o-bree-gah-
próximo? pro-see-moo doo/uh
Do you take Aceita cartões uh-say-tuh
Communication Essentials credit cards? de crédito? kar-toinsh de
kreh-dee-too
Yes Sim seeñ What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
No Não nowñ do you open? abre? ah-bre
Please Por favor/ poor fuh-vor What time A que horas uh kee oh-rash
do you close? fecha? fay-shuh
Faz favor fash fuh-vor This one Este ehst’
Thank you Obrigado/da o-bree-gah-doo/duh That one Esse ehss’
Excuse me Desculpe dish-koolp’ expensive caro kah-roo
Hello Olá oh-lah cheap barato buh-rah-too
Goodbye Adeus a-deh-oosh size (clothes/shoes) tamanho ta-man-yoo
white branco brañ-koo
Good morning Bom-dia boñ dee-uh black preto preh-too
Good afternoon Boa-tarde boh-uh tard’ red vermelho ver-melh-yoo
Good night Boa-noite boh-uh noyt’ yellow amarelo uh-muh-reh-loo
Yesterday Ontem oñ-tayñ green verde vehrd’
Today Hoje ohj’ blue azul uh-zool’
Tomorrow Amanhã ah-mañ-yañ
Here Aqui uh-kee Types of Shop
There Ali uh-lee
antique shop loja de loh-juh de añ-tee-
What? O quê? oo keh
Which? Qual? kwahl’ antiguidades gwee-dahd’sh
When? Quando? kwañ-doo bakery padaria pah-duh-ree-uh
Why? Porquê? poor-keh bank banco bañ-koo
Where? Onde? oñd’ bookshop livraria lee-vruh-ree-uh
butcher talho tah-lyoo
cake shop pastelaria pash-te-luh-ree-uh
Useful Phrases chemist farmácia far-mah-see-uh
How are you? Como está? koh-moo shtah fishmonger peixaria pay-shuh-ree-uh
Very well, Bem, bayñ o-bree-gah- hairdresser cabeleireiro kab’-lay-ray-roo
thank you. obrigado/da. doo/duh market mercado mehr-kah-doo
Pleased to Encantado/a. eñ-kañ-tah-doo/ newsagent quiosque kee-yohsk’
meet you. duh post office correios koo-ray-oosh
See you soon. Até logo. uh-teh loh-goo shoe shop sapataria suh-puh-tuh-ree-uh
That’s fine. Está bem. shtah bayñ supermarket supermercado soo-pehr-mer-
Where is/are…? Onde ond’ shtah/ kah-doo
está/estão…? shtowñ tobacconist tabacaria tuh-buh-kuh-ree-uh
travel agency agência de uh-jen-see-uh de
How far is it to…? A que distância uh kee dish-tañ- viagens vee-ah-jayñsh
fica…? see-uh fee-kuh
Which Como se vai koh-moo seh vy
way to…? para…? puh-ruh Sightseeing
Do you speak Fala inglês? fah-luh eeñ- cathedral sé seh
English? glehsh church igreja ee-gray-juh
I don’t understand. Não compreendo. nowñ kom-pree-eñ-doo garden jardim jar-deeñ
Could you speak Pode falar pohd’ fuh-lar library biblioteca bee-blee-oo-teh-kuh
more slowly mais devagar mysh d’-va-gar museum museu moo-zeh-oo
please? por favor? poor fuh-vor tourist infor- posto de posh-too d’
I’m sorry. Desculpe. dish-koolp’ mation office turismo too-reesh-moo
closed for fechado para fe-sha-doo puh-ruh
Useful Words holidays férias feh-ree-ash
bus station estação de shta-sowñ d’ oh-
big grande grañd’
autocarros too-kah-roosh
small pequeno pe-keh-noo
hot quente keñt’ railway station estação de shta-sowñ d’
cold frio free-oo comboios koñ-boy-oosh
good bom boñ
bad mau mah-oo Staying in a Hotel
quite a lot/enough bastante bash-tañt’ Do you have a Tem um tayñ ooñ kwar-
well bem bayñ vacant room? quarto livre? too leevr’
open aberto a-behr-too room with um quarto com ooñ kwar-too
closed fechado fe-shah-doo a bath casa de banho koñ kah-zuh
left esquerda shkehr-duh d’ bañ-yoo
right direita dee-ray-tuh shower duche doosh
straight on em frente ayñ freñt’ single room quarto kwar-too een-dee-
near perto pehr-too individual vee-doo-ahl’
far longe loñj’ double room quarto de casal kwar-too d’ kuh-
up para cima pur-ruh see-muh zahl’
down para baixa pur-ruh buy-shoo twin room quarto com duas kwar-too koñ doo-
early cedo seh-doo camas ash kah-mash
late tarde tard’ porter porteiro poor-tay-roo
entrance entrada eñ-trah-duh
exit saída sa-ee-duh key chave shahv’
toilets casa de banho kah-zuh d’ bañ-yoo I have a Tenho um tayñ-yoo ooñ
more mais mysh reservation. quarto kwar-too-
less menos meh-noosh reservado. re-ser-vah-doo
480  PHRASE BOOK
Eating Out goraz goo-rash bream

grelhado grel-yah-doo grilled
Have you got a Tem uma mesa tayñ oo-muh meh- iscas eesh-kash marinated liver
table for…? para…? zuh puh-ruh lagosta luh-gohsh-tuh lobster
I want to Quero reservar keh-roo re-zehr-var laranja luh-rañ-juh orange
reserve a table. uma mesa. oo-muh meh-zuh leite layt’ milk
The bill A conta uh kohn-tuh limão lee-mowñ lemon
please. por favor/ poor fuh-vor/ limonada lee-moo-nah-duh lemonade
faz favor. fash fuh-vor linguado leeñ-gwah-doo sole
I am a Sou Soh ve-je-tuh- lulas loo-lash squid
vegetarian. vegetariano/a. ree-ah-noo/uh maçã muh-sañ apple
Waiter Por favor!/ poor fuh-vor manteiga mañ-tay-guh butter
Faz favor! fash fuh-vor marisco muh-reesh-koosh seafood
the menu a lista uh leesh-tuh meia-de-leite may-uh-d’ layt’ white coffee
fixed-price a ementa uh ee-mehñ-tuh ostras osh-trash oysters
menu turística too-reesh-tee-kuh
wine list a lista de uh leesh-tuh de ovos oh-voosh eggs
vinhos veeñ-yoosh pão powñ bread
glass um copo ooñ koh-poo pastel pash-tehl’ cake
bottle uma garrafa oo-muh guh-rah-fuh pato pah-too duck
half bottle meia-garrafa may-uh guh-rah-fuh peixe paysh’ fish
knife uma faca oo-muh fah-kuh peixe-espada paysh’-shpah-duh scabbard fish
fork um garfo ooñ gar-foo pimenta pee-meñ-tuh pepper
spoon uma colher oo-muh kool-yair polvo pohl’-voo octopus
plate um prato ooñ prah-too
napkin um guardanapo ooñ goo-ar-duh- porco por-coo pork
nah-poo queijo kay-joo cheese
breakfast pequeno-almoço pe-keh-noo- sal sahl’ salt
ahl-moh-soo salada suh-lah-duh salad
lunch almoço ahl-moh-soo salsichas sahl-see-shash sausages
dinner jantar jan-tar sandes sañ-desh sandwich
cover couvert koo-vehr santola sañ-toh-luh spider crab
starter entrada eñ-trah-duh sopa soh-puh soup
main course prato prah-too sumo soo-moo juice
principal prin-see-pahl’
dish of the day prato do dia prah-too doo tamboril tañ-boo-ril’ monkfish
dee-uh tarte tart’ pie/cake
set dish combinado koñ-bee-nah-doo tomate too-maht’ tomato
half portion meia-dose may-uh doh-se torrada too-rah-duh toast
dessert sobremesa soh-bre-meh-zuh tosta tohsh-tuh toasted sandwich
rare mal passado mahl’ puh-sah-doo vinagre vee-nah-gre vinegar
medium médio meh-dee-oo vinho branco veeñ-yoo brañ-koo white wine
well done bem passado bayñ puh-sah-doo vinho tinto veeñ-yoo teeñ-too red wine
vitela vee-teh-luh veal
Menu Decoder
abacate uh-buh-kaht’ avocado Numbers
açorda uh-sor-duh bread-based stew
(often seafood) 0 zero zeh-roo
açúcar uh-soo-kar sugar 1 um ooñ
água mineral ah-gwuh mineral water 2 dois doysh
mee-ne-rahl’ 3 três tresh
(com gás) koñ gas sparkling 4 quatro kwa-troo
(sem gás) sayñ gas still 5 cinco seeñ-koo
alho al-yoo garlic 6 seis saysh
alperce ahl’-pehrce apricot 7 sete set’
amêijoas uh-may-joo-ash clams 8 oito oy-too
ananás uh-nuh-nahsh pineapple 9 nove nov’
arroz uh-rohsh rice 10 dez desh
assado uh-sah-doo baked 11 onze oñz’
atum uh-tooñ tuna 12 doze doz’
aves ah-vesh poultry 13 treze trez’
azeite uh-zayt’ olive oil 14 catorze ka-torz’
azeitonas uh-zay-toh-nash olives 15 quinze keeñz’
bacalhau buh-kuh-lyow dried, salted cod 16 dezasseis de-zuh-saysh
banana buh-nah-nuh banana 17 dezassete de-zuh-set’
batatas buh-tah-tash potatoes 18 dezoito de-zoy-too
batatas fritas buh-tah-tash french fries
free-tash 19 dezanove de-zuh-nov’
batido buh-tee-doo milkshake 20 vinte veent’
bica bee-kuh espresso 21 vinte e um veen-tee-ooñ
bife beef steak 30 trinta treeñ-tuh
bolacha boo-lah-shuh biscuit 40 quarenta kwa-reñ-tuh
bolo boh-loo cake 50 cinquenta seen-kweñ-tuh
borrego boo-reh-goo lamb 60 sessenta se-señ-tuh
caça kah-ssuh game 70 setenta se-teñ-tuh
café kuh-feh coffee 80 oitenta oy-teñ-tuh
camarões kuh-muh-roysh large prawns 90 noventa noo-veñ-tuh
caracóis kuh-ruh-koysh snails 100 cem sayñ
caranguejo kuh-rañ-gay-joo crab 101 cento e um señ-too-ee-ooñ
carne karn’ meat 102 cento e dois señ-too ee doysh
cataplana kuh-tuh-plah-nuh sealed wok used 200 duzentos doo-zeñ-toosh
to steam dishes 300 trezentos tre-zeñ-toosh
cebola se-boh-luh onion 400 quatrocentos kwa-troo-señ-toosh
cerveja sehr-vay-juh beer 500 quinhentos kee-nyeñ-toosh
chá shah tea 700 setecentos set’-señ-toosh
cherne shern’ stone bass 900 novecentos nov’-señ-toosh
chocolate shoh-koh-laht’ chocolate 1,000 mil meel’
chocos shoh-koosh cuttlefish
chouriço shoh-ree-soo red, spicy sausage
churrasco shoo-rash-coo on the spit Time
cogumelos koo-goo-meh-loosh mushrooms
cozido koo-zee-doo boiled one minute um minuto ooñ mee-noo-too
enguias eñ-gee-ash eels one hour uma hora oo-muh oh-ruh
fiambre fee-añbr’ ham half an hour meia-hora may-uh-oh-ruh
figado fee-guh-doo liver Monday segunda-feira se-goon-duh-fay-ruh
frango frañ-goo chicken Tuesday terça-feira ter-sa-fay-ruh
frito free-too fried Wednesday quarta-feira kwar-ta-fay-ruh
fruta froo-tuh fruit Thursday quinta-feira keen-ta-fay-ruh
gambas gam-bash prawns Friday sexta-feira say-shta-fay-ruh
gelado je-lah-doo ice cream Saturday sábado sah-ba-doo
gelo jeh-loo ice Sunday domingo doo-meen-goo

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eyewitness travel

Lisbon’s skyline as seen from across the Tagus, in Almada

The information in this

Introducing Central Where to Stay 380

Estremadura and Shopping in

The Beiras 200 Entertainment in

Introducing Northern A traditional tram transports passengers

Introducing Portugal’s Travel Information 440

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

1 Area Map LISBON  103

BELÉM All the pages relating to

a map. The sights are also

marked on the Street Finder Museums and Galleries

chapter’s sights by category:

r Jardim Botânico da Ajuda

Churches, Museums and

Galleries, Historic Buildings,

Parks and Gardens.

See also Street Finder

A locator map shows clearly

where the area is in relation

to other parts of the city.

104  LISBON BELÉM  105

This gives a bird’s-eye view

of the heart of each of the

5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia

A suggested route for

a walk is shown in red. RUA VIEIRA P

visitor should miss.

All the sights in Lisbon are described

individually. Addresses and practical

information are provided. The key to

the symbols used in the information

block is shown on the back flap.

A general account of the

landscape, history and

has a separate chapter. The most

over the centuries and what

interesting cities, towns and

attractions it has to offer the

numbered on a Regional Map.

Exploring the Lisbon Coast

the region. All entries are

numbered and there

São João das most of which leave from Sete Rios.

are also useful tips on

Pero Pinheiro Santa Iria

Sights at a Glance Mar Loures

getting around the region.

be identified quickly by its

colour coding, shown on

the inside front cover.

Nossa Senhora SESIMBRA DE TRÓIA

Cabo da Roca on the western edge of Serra de Sintra

All the important towns and

other places to visit are

described individually. They

the numbering given on the

Regional Map. Within each

entry, there is further detailed

buildings and other sights.

164  CENTRAL PORTUGAL SINTRA  165

Palácio Nacional de Sintra VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

the practical information