Chingus Sarai

On our way to Shardra Sharif, Richa Trisal(Student of School of Hospitality
and Tourism) and Dr. Mokshi told us various stories about the different place coming
along the way. But the one that amazed me the most was the History of Chingus Sarai. While
coming back from Rajouri we stopped at this sarai to feel the past and know the history of this
place. But after searching for the history, I came across with one more fascinating story about
the Jamwal girl who surprised Noor-e-Jahan with her wits and wisdom.
Chingus Sarai a handsome package of aesthetic pleasure for the onlookers with a romantic
attitude but this fort is a symbol of our royal and glorious past. It was built during Mughal
Kingdom in India who used it during their annual entourage to Kashmir in summer season. Now
a small hamlet about 24 kilometers from the main town of Rajouri around it stands named after
this Sarai. The word 'Chingus' has been derived from the Persian Language that means
'entrails' or 'intestines'. This place is known as Chingus because the entrails of Emperor
Jahangir are lying buried here in the very center of the Sarai. Jahangir is randomly reported to
have visited Kashmir about 27 times and when he went to Kashmir for the last time, he fell ill. In
view of the deterioration of his health, Queen Noor Jahan decided to carry him back to the
capital Lahore. While being on the way back to Lahore, the health of Emperor Jahangir ran
down to the extreme and consequently he breathed last in 1627 at Behramgala ( a village near
Chandi Marh about 10 kilometers from Buffliaz, Tehsil Surankote Poonch).. Behramgala is an
historical gorge with a lofty water-fall called Noori Chhamb named after Noor Jahan-the Queen.
It is worthwhile to mention that Behram gala has been named after Baram Khan-the tutor of
Akbar-the Great and Akbar is reported to have received his little education at this place. The
dead body of the Emperor now was to be carried to Lahore for the last rites to be performed but
because it was a to take a long time to reach and in the meantime there was every chance for
the cadaver to release stench and smell, so the innards were removed from his body and buried
in this Sarai which used to be used as a Transit Camp by Mughals. There was some
apprehension to the Queen of some revolt for succession in Lahore; hence she did not want to
disclose the secret of Emperor's demise. She placed the body of Emperor on the elephant
inside a type of Palanquin called 'Kajawa' in the then language and the caravan set for Lahore.
The dead-body was placed on the elephant as if the Emperor were alive so news of his death
could not reach others. When the 'Qafila' reached Nowshehra, it is said that a girl from Jamwal,
who was grazing the cattle on the wayside, all of a sudden came on the way and cried, "Oh!
The King has passed away." It was a surprise for the Queen because even most of the
ministers and officers did not know about the death despite being within the Emperor's cabinet.
Queen took the girl aside and enquired of her as to how she knew about this top secret. The girl
said, "I have listened to someone saying that not even a bee can dare to sit on the 'Kajawa'
(Palanquin) of the Mughal Emperor but today I see that a bee is sitting on his Palanquin. I
understood his Majesty is no more." Queen was surprisingly happy over the wit and wisdom of
this young girl and announced the exemption of the entire Jamwal Community of Nowshehra
from all kinds of taxes.
This Fort or the Sarai (constructed in random rubbles, large marbles and lakharuri bricks) is
divided into two portions-front area also called Shahi Khana or the Royal residence more
spacious in expansion which is surrounded by 68 arc-rooms of about 8sqft size. While entering
from the main gate to the north 15 rooms are situated on the right side and 12 rooms are on the
left side. After stepping into the forte from the first main entrance, we get into a kind ante-
chamber to Diwan-e-Khas where the Mughal Emperor used to relax into indolence with his
Queen. After transcending another gate, having two sentry-cabins on either side, one gets
exposed to special residential area of the King surrounded by 41 more guard rooms/ marhs.
These marhs or the guard rooms were meant for the royal army to stay and provide protection
to the king. Some of the opinions are there in the annals of the history that these rooms were
the 'Stable rooms' but this opinion does not appeal to the common sense. Let's suppose that
these rooms were used for the horses then we don't have as such any other space available in
or around the Sarai to accommodate army of the King. Hence I think that horses could have
been kept in the open but the army used to stay in these small spaces. But during militancy in
mid nineties, these arc-type dwelling structures were converted into confinement cells for those
who were suspected to have involvement in terrorism-related activities. There used to be a
police post housed in the said in that stands shifted now. On the right side of the Royal
apartment to the south of the Forte lies a brief lodge of Emperor with a Hujra or Veiled Rest
Room for the Queen exactly at the back of it where no one was allowed to visit excepting the
Emperor or the Lady attendants of the Queen. In front of this laconic Residential complex, there
is situated a detailed Diwan-e-Aam with an Arch in the east, now converted into the gate, where
the King would deliver directions to his army or address his subjects or people in a gathering.
The Sarai is decorated with a number of top-holes to the tune of about four hundred and thirty
two in total visible around the top of the entire Gothic type structure. It is assumed that the Army
Jawans might have been stationed around the Sarai with the guns pointed out of these holes for
keeping surveillance over the surrounding area. In the middle of the main area inside the Sarai
is located the tomb where the Royal Entrails have been buried. The tomb is made up of marble
and grilled all around. It happens to have been constructed in the corridor of a brief-sized
mosque most probably meant for the emperor and some of the very specials to him to perform
prayer etc. Standing eastward, on the left there is a small swimming pool for the king and the
queen to have romantic or the royal douses into it during summer. Standing in front of the Royal
Chamber of Diwan-e-Khas with the face towards north, about 45 degree on the left above the
Central gate of the Forte, there is a small round-raised podium which is speculated to have
been used by the announcer to announce the arrival of the Emperor with words like, " Nigahen
Neechay, Dil-e-ru-baru, ba mulaiza hoshiyar, Zilay ilahi, Shehnahah-e-Hind diwan-e-khas mein
tashreef la rahe hainn.' if one looks at the Fort with spiritual eyes, it seems as if the Emperor,
even now, were somewhere around us and many secrets of nature become manifest upon the
beholder provided he has that sense to look at these hair-raising spectacles.

Chingus Sarai

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On our way to Shardra Sharif, Richa Trisal(Student of School of Hospitality

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