Urs of Ajmer
Urs of Ajmer
The Ajmer Urs marks the death anniversary of the revered Sufi saint Hazrat Khwaja
(respected master) Moinuddin Chishti – popularly known as Garib Nawaz (helper of the
poor) – and is observed every year during the first six days of ‘Rajab’ (the seventh month
of the Islamic calendar).
Moinuddin Chishti is a giant figure on the Sufi map of the Indian Subcontinent. Sufism
itself began as a practice of asceticism in the early history of Islam, imbibed traditions of
Christian, Arabic and other popular creeds, and by the 10th century CE, became
synonymous with Islamic mysticism, with a great focus on love and adoration of god.
As opposed to the hierarchies of mosques and priests, Sufism evolved into a practice of
personal communion with Allah. Over centuries, it diversified into five main, not very
dissimilar, silsilas (orders).
One of them was the Chishti order, to which the Khwaja belonged; indeed, he established
this most dominant of Sufi orders in India.
The Khwaja was born Moinuddin Hasan bin Khwaja Gayasuddin Hasan, in the 1130s at
Seistan near Khurasan in East Persia, with both his paternal and maternal genealogies
said to be traceable to Prophet Mohammed.
He became a disciple of Hazrat Khwaja Usman-e-Harooni, of the Chishti silsila, in his
youth. After extensive travels in Central Asia, he came to Ajmer in 1191, by divine
decree it is said, to spread the faith in Hindustan and settled here for life.
Among the first Sufi saints to come to India, he led an illustrious line of Chishti saints in
the country, including Nizamuddin Auliya and Salim Chishti.
The Khwaja was deeply revered for his austere life, which spanned almost a hundred
years.
He ate sparsely, surviving on a dry chappati, wore a simple tunic and distributed all the
gifts that the Delhi Sultanate sent his way.
The poor identified with him and gave him his most popular appellation, ‘Garib Nawaz’.
In 1235, he embraced death in solitude when he withdrew to his cell for six days, asking
not to be disturbed.
The Dargah Sharif in Ajmer is the place where the saint’s mortal remains lie buried.
His tomb at Ajmer slowly became the focus of pilgrims’ devotion as well as Mughal
royal patronage.
Today, it’s an explosion of architectural styles, traditions, beliefs, customs and people.
Devotees believe that the saint’s divine grace lingers on and he intercedes on their behalf
to the almighty to answer their prayers.
The most famous of these was Emperor Akbar, who walked from Agra to Ajmer over 16
days in January 1570.
The Urs Chronology
The Urs is the Khwaja’s death anniversary; the 2016 Urs was the 804th.
Believers have faith that whatever they ask during the Urs will be granted.
While this asking involves a great outpouring of personal sorrow and grief, the Urs is also
a time of grand celebration and joy.
The main street leading to the dargah, the Dargah Bazaar, rever-berates with the beat of
drums; thousands of hearts throb in unison.
More than 5,00,000 devotees gather to pay homage to the Khwaja on the occasion
The annual ceremony begins on seeing the moon of Rajab. Four or five days before this,
a flag is hoisted over the Buland Darwaza by the Sajjada Nashin (successor
representative) of the Chishtis, also called the Diwan.
The Khwaja’s tomb shrine is washed twice at night in a ceremony called gusl (bath) and
essence of flowers is sprinkled.
The tabarruk (blessed food), cooked in one of the remarkably huge degs (cauldrons) near
the entrance, is distributed at 3.00am.
Throughout the Urs, the famous Jannati Darwaza (the door to paradise), a small door on
the western side of the shrine, is kept open.
This door is opened only on four occasions in the year – tradition has it that whoever
passes through this door will enter paradise.
Pilgrims who come to seek blessings make rich offerings, called nazrana, at the spot
where the saint has been entombed.
The offerings are rose and jasmine flowers, sandalwood paste, per-fumes, incense and
cash.
Devotees also bring chadars, votive offerings for the tomb, on their heads and hand them
over to the khadims inside the sanctum sanctorum.
People tie red threads on the stone jaalis and trees all around the dargah and pray for their
wishes to be fulfilled.
The Qul is the grand finale. On the 6th of Rajab, and all through the previous night, the
dargah is crammed with devotees, performing rites and prayers, moving with the qawwali
beats, reciting the Quran, and just being with the Khwaja and with each other.
the ceremony of the Qul begins, initiated by khadims dressed in their best.
The shijara-i-Chishtiya (spiritual lineage of the Chishti order) and verses of petition are
recited, and prayers are read.
The Diwan arrives from the mehfilkhana to the shrine, the Jannati Darwaza is closed, a
cannon is fired from the hill above the dargah and fatiha (mass prayer) is read.
Meanwhile, qalandars (a sect of travelling Sufi mendicants) rush into the mehfilkhana
where they beat their whips on the ground, shout slogans and make a great noise.
Once they stop, the Urs is considered over and pilgrims begin to leave Ajmer.
Music of the Sufis
Zikr and sama (congregational recitation and meditation on the Quran) were part of early
Sufism.
These practices evolved into recitation of chants and litanies as a stimulus to detachment
and forgetfulness from worldly cares.
Later, some Sufi traditions, especially of the Chishti silsila, blended sama with Indian
classical music and the soul-stirring qawwali was born.
During the Urs, qawwali gatherings are held in the mehfilkhana, in the rooms and the
gaddis (sitting places) of the khadims in the dargah.
In these mehfils, the sitting arrangement and the protocol of giving cash to the qawwals
follow the etiquette of the Mughal court.
In the mehfilkhana, the Diwan presides, dressed in ceremonial clothes and escorted by
torch and mace bearers, seated on a cushion under a tent.
The music beginsat night; the rough but tender voices, the tabla, harmonium, the
clapping and swirling devotees carry on into the early hours.
Shopping
The dargah is located at the junction of three bazaars, and during the Urs, these become
frenetic fairs.
Permanent and temporary shops sell flowers, rose ittar (perfume), glass bangles, prayer
mats, textiles, jootis, T-shirts, religious literature and much more.
There are also chadars for the dargah and inexpensive CDs of qawwalis.
Along with traditional practices and rites, millions of believers throng on the attractively
decorated Chadar, Neema and Ghilafs which presented at the Daragah.
Besides, Bazar of Dargah Ajmer Sharif fills with spiritual objects, scents, sandalwood paste,
rosaries, silver ornaments, books, and embellished carpets.