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LESSON 2: Preparing and Cutting

Materials for Athletic Shorts

WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?


This module covers the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required in
preparing and cutting materials for athletic shorts. It includes laying out of
patterns, pinning, marking, and preparing fabric for cutting.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?


At the end of this module, you should be able to:
a. prepare materials/fabric for athletic shorts;
b. lay out, pin, and mark patterns on the materials; and
c. cut materials.

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?


Let us determine how much you already know about preparing and
cutting materials for athletic shorts. Take this test.

Pre-test
Direction: Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the
letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. It is the correct procedure in preparing the materials for cutting.
a. shrinking, hanging, straightening, pressing
b. shrinking, straightening, hanging, pressing
c. straightening, shrinking, hanging, pressing
d. straightening, hanging, shrinking, pressing
2. This is the first step to do before laying the pattern over the cloth.
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a. hang b. soak c. press d. zigzag


3. It is essential in laying the pattern on the cloth.
a. pins b. tape measure c. scissors d. weight
4. It is used to transfer the construction marks of the pattern to the fabric.
a. ball pen b. tailor’s chalk c. crayon d. tracing wheel
5. It is the best tool used in cutting fabrics.
a. pinking shears c. trimming shears
b. button hole scissors d. dressmaker’s best-handled sheers
6. This refers to the finished edge of a fabric.
a. cut edge b. raw edge c. hem d. selvage
7. This is the dressmaker’s guide in cutting a fabric.
a. pattern b. shears c. pins d. tailor’s chalk
8. This refers to the arrangement of the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. cut b. mark c. layout d. trace
9. This is how patterns are arranged economically on fabrics
a. along the center fold c. along the selvage
b. apart d. close to each other
10. This is used in cutting the cloth to achieve clean and even edges.
a. blade c. cutting shears
b. embroidery scissors d. pinking shears
11. These are the articles that make the costume complete.
a. Accessories c. decorations
b. ornaments d. trimmings
12. This is considered a general rule in removing wrinkles and creases on the
materials.
a. have it dry-cleaned.
b. press on the right side of the cloth.
c. press on the wrong side of the cloth.
d. use damp pad and press
13. This refers to the grain of fabric which runs along the selvage.
a. bias b. lengthwise c. crosswise d. twirls
14. This is a characteristic of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch c. it is stronger
b. the selvage is there d. all of these
15. This is the reason why one must pre-shrunk washable fabric before cutting.
a. to avoid fitting alteration c. to prevent shrinkage
b. to remove any sizing d. all of the above
16. This refers to a pair of scissors which is useful in working with fine details in
delicate fabrics.
a. buttonhole c. embroidery
b. pinking d. trimming

17. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics that does
not ravel.
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a. baguio cut c. pinking shears


b. shears d. scissors
18. It is the best tool in cutting fabric.
a. Pinking shears c. Buttonhole scissors
b. Pinking shears d. Dressmakers bent handled shears
19. This refers to the finished edge of a fabric.
a. Cut edge c. Hem
b. Raw edge d. Selvage
20. What fabric fold is suitable for materials that are too narrow to
accommodate the width of pattern pieces when folded lengthwise?
a. Lengthwise fold c. Crosswise fold
b. Off center crosswise fold d. Off center lengthwise fold

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?

Read Information Sheet 2.1-1 very well then find out how much you can
remember and how much you learned by doing Self-check 2.1-1.
43

Information Sheet 2.1-1

PREPARING MATERIALS/FABRIC FOR ATHLETIC SHORTS

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?


After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. explain the techniques in handling the fabric before cutting; and
2. name the kinds of trimmings anc accessories for athletic shorts

Fabrics also come in various widths. They can be purchased on textile


stores. You will purchase and prepare a fabric that fits the job requirement/
specifications of your client. Fabric of any type must be pre treated before
cutting to avoid later alterations or damage in the finished garment. The
untreated fabric may be of correct size on the first wear, but due to repeated
washing it may shrink and be uncomfortable to the wearer. Grain perfection is
another factor which may deform the silhouette of the garment. These factors
must be given due consideration before cutting.

Let us recall the parts of a fabric so you will never be confused during the
discussion of this lesson.
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Selvage - the finished edge of the fabric running lengthwise or on the sides of
the fabric. There is a selvage on both lengthwise edges of woven fabrics.

Lengthwise thread - the thread running parallel to the selvage. The


lengthwise threads are stronger than the crosswise.

Crosswise thread - the thread running at right angle or perpendicular to the


selvage. These threads are usually slightly weak than the lengthwise threads.

True bias - the diagonal of a perfect square of fabric. The bias line makes 45
degree angle with the lengthwise and crosswise threads.

Since patterns are already drafted, you can now lay out pattern on your
available fabrics. Your knowledge on how to identify wrong from right side can
also be useful in purchasing the fabric.

Fabric Preparation
The importance of fabric preparation is to preserve the fit of the finished
garment after washing.

Techniques in Preparing the Fabrics for Cutting:


A. Shrinking and soaking the fabric by laundering and drying
Washable fabrics can be pre-shrunk by laundering and drying. Pre –
shrunk washable fabric to prevent shrinkage later.

Procedure in Shrinking Washable Fabric


1. Fold the fabric lengthwise.
2. Immerse and soak the fabric in cold water (in large basin).
3. Let it stand for 30 to 60 minutes.
4. Remove it from the water. Do not wring nor dry the
fabrics on the clothesline.
5. Press the cloth when completely dry.

B. Straightening the end of fabrics


This process is to draw the thread or grain of the material of the uneven
crosswise or lengthwise edges to make it straight.

How to Straighten the Ends of the Fabric


1. Clip the selvage on the shortest edge of the fabric.
2. Pick-up a loose crosswise threads and pull it out slowly.
3. Pull the thread all the way across the selvage.
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4. Cut along a pulled thread.

C. Stretching the grains of fabrics


The process of pulling the cloth diagonally from one corner to the
opposite corner thus making the lengthwise to be right angle.
How to Stretch the Grain of Fabrics
1. Grasp opposite diagonal corners and pull.
2. Check to see if the fabric has been straightened.
3. Keep on pulling until the selvage comes together.
4. Smooth the material on the table and check if the fabric ends lie even.

D. Pressing
The process of removing wrinkles and creases in
fabric by using the flat iron. The general rule is to press
on the wrong side of the cloth in the lengthwise grain.
Pressing may enlarge or shrink the fabrics.

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?


46

Self Check 2.1- 1

Multiple Choices
Direction: Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the
letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. This is the correct procedure in preparing the materials for cutting.
a. shrinking, hanging, straightening, pressing
b. shrinking, straightening, hanging, pressing
c. straightening, shrinking, hanging, pressing
d. straightening, hanging, shrinking, pressing
2. The reason why washable fabric is pre-shrunk.
a. to avoid fitting alteration c. to remove any sizing
b. to prevent shrinkage d. all of the above
3. This is a characteristic of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch c. the selvage is there
b. it is stronger d. all of these
4. It is a grain of fabric that runs along the selvage.
a. bias b. crosswise c. lengthwise d. twirls
5. This refers to the finished edge of a fabric.
a. Cut edge b. Hem c. Raw edge d. Selvage
6. It refers to the diagonal of a perfect square of fabric.
a. Lengthwise b. Crosswise c. Bias d. Selvage
7. Which of the following preparation is done by drawing a thread or grain of
the material of the uneven crosswise or lengthwise edges to make it straight?
a. Shrinking and soaking c. Pressing
b. Straightening the end of fabric d. Stretching the grain of fabric
8. It is the process of removing wrinkles and creases in fabric by using the flat
iron.
a. Pressing c. Stretching the grain
b. Shrinking and soaking d. Straightening the end of fabric
9. Which of the following is the correct procedure in straightening the ends of
the fabric?
A. Pick-up a loose crosswise threads and pulls it out slowly.
B. Cut along a pulled thread.
C. Clip the selvage on the shortest edge of the fabric.
D. Pull the thread all the way across the selvage.
a. B, A, C, D b. C, A, B, D c. A, D, B, C d. C, A, D, B
10.It is done by pulling the cloth diagonally from the corner to the opposite
corner this making the lengthwise to be right angle.
a. Pressing c. Stretching the grains of fabric
b. Shrinking and soaking d. Straightening the end of fabric
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?
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Read Information Sheet 2.2-1 very well then find out how much you can
remember and how much you learned by doing Self-check 2.2-1.

Information Sheet 2.2-1

LAY OUTING AND PINNING ATHLETIC SHORTS PATTERN


ON THE FABRIC

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?


After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. determine the wrong and right side of fabric;
2. enumerate the kinds of fabric folds before the making the layout; and
3. apply the steps in laying out patterns to the cloth.

Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric

Before you lay out the patterns be sure that you fold the fabric on its
wrong side.
Below are tips to identify the right or wrong side of fabric.
1. Prints are more visible and bright on the right side.
2. Right side has smooth and finished appearance.
3. Right side selvage is smoother than the wrong side.
4. Wrong side has loose thread ends.
5. Whole, silk and most nylons are folded or rolled with their right side in.

Fabric Folds
1. Lengthwise center fold
The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the selvage together.

2. Crosswise center fold


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The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges together.

3. Off-center lengthwise fold


The fabric is folded lengthwise with the selvage meeting at the center.

4. Off-center crosswise fold


The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edge meeting at the center

The hints in folding are the following:


1. The selvage should match exactly where they meet. To prevent shifting of
slippery or soft fabric you should pin the selvages together every few inches.
2. If the material was folded at the time of the purchase, make sure the fold
line is accurate and press it again if necessary.
3. When no fold is indicated, lay fabric right side up.

Pattern Layout
It is the placement and arrangement of pattern pieces on the materials in
an economical way.

Procedure in Laying Out Pattern on the Cloth:


1. Patterns must be checked well before laying them on the cloth.
2. Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying them on the cloth.
3. Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from hanging over the
edge of table.
4. When laying each pattern piece, check the following :
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a. lengthwise grain position


b. the center fold
c. if it is to be duplicated
d. if it is to be sectioned to be cut singly, or not through two layers
5. Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded together.
6. Lay out the largest pattern piece first on the wrong side of the material.
7. Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge.
8. Insert pins along the lengthwise grain.
9. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
10.Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.
11.Mark the stitching lines before cutting.

Pinning Pattern to the Cloth


1. Be sure the pattern piece is placed on the straight grain by measuring the
grain from the fabric’s edge.
2. After measuring the grain line, smooth the tissue and place pins diagonally
towards the corners of the pattern.
3. Then place pins where necessary to keep the pattern pieces flat for cutting.

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?


50

Self Check 2.2-1

Multiple Choices
Direction: Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the
letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.

1. A kind of fabric folds wherein the fabric is folded lengthwise at the center
with the selvage together.
a. Crosswise center fold c. Off-center lengthwise fold
b. Lengthwise center fold d. Off-center crosswise fold
2. A kind of fabric folds wherein the fabric is folded crosswise with the raw
edges together.
a. Off-center crosswise fold c. Crosswise fold
b. Off-center lengthwise fold d. Lengthwise fold
3. This is how patterns are arranged economically on fabrics.
a. along the center fold c. close to each other
b. along the selvage d. apart from each other
4. This means to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. to cut b. to lay out c. to mark d. to trace
5. This is the first step in laying out pattern.
a. check and mark seam allowances and stitching line
b. fold the material with right side folded in
c. lay out the largest pattern piece on the wrong side of the cloth
d. checked the pattern well
6. A kind of fabric folds wherein the fabric is folded crosswise with the raw
edge meeting at the center.
a. Crosswise fold c. Off-center crosswise fold
b. Lengthwise fold d. Off-center lengthwise fold
7. The following are the tips in identifying the right side and wrong side of the
fabric. Which is NOT?
a. Right side has loose thread ends.
b. Prints are more visible and bright on the right side.
c. Right side has smooth and finished appearance.
d. Right side selvage is smoother than the wrong side.
8. Which of the following fabric folds is done by folding the fabric lengthwise
with the selvage meeting at the center?
a. Off-center crosswise fold c. Off-center lengthwise fold
b. Crosswise fold d. Lengthwise fold

9. Which of the following is true in pattern lay-out?


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a. Lay out the smallest pattern pieces first.


b. Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.
c. Fold the materials with the wrong side in.
d. Insert the pins along the crosswise grain.
10.Pattern lay-out refers to the placement and arrangement of pattern pieces
on the materials in an economical way.
a. Half true c. False
b. Not sure d. True

TASK SHEET 2.2-1


52

Title:
Lay outing and pinning athletic shorts pattern on fabric

Performance Objective:
Given the necessary tools and materials you need to lay out and pin
athletic shorts pattern on fabric.

Supplies/Materials:
 Pattern
 Fabric
 Pencil with eraser

Tools/Equipment:
 Cutting tools
 Cutting table
 Pins

Steps/Procedure:
 Gather all the tools and materials needed.
 Checked the patterns before laying them on the cloth.
 Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying them on the cloth.
 Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from hanging over the
edge of table.
 When laying each pattern piece, check the following :
 lengthwise grain position
 the center fold
 if it is to be duplicated
 if it is to be sectioned to be cut singly, or not through two layers
 Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded together.
 Lay out the largest pattern piece first and the small pieces last.
 Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge.
 Insert pins along the lengthwise grain.
 Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
 Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.2-1


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CRITERIA YE N
S O
1. Gather all the tools and materials needed?
2. Checked the patterns before laying them on the cloth?
3. Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying
them on the cloth?
4. Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from
hanging over the edge of table?
5. Check the following when laying each pattern piece:
a. lengthwise grain position?
b. the center fold?
c. if it is to be duplicated?
d. if it is to be sectioned to be cut singly, or not through
two layers?
6. Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded
together?
7. Lay out the largest pattern piece first and the small pieces
last?
8. Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge?
9. Insert pins along the lengthwise grain?
10. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant
places?
11. Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever
possible?

Comments/Suggestions

Teacher: __________________________________ Date: _________________


54

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?

Read Information Sheet 2.3-1 very well then find out how much you can
remember and how much you learned by doing Self-check 2.3-1.

Information Sheet 2.3-1

CUTTING THE MATERIALS

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?


After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. name the types of cutting tools used in tailoring;
2. use cutting tools properly;
3. acquire skills in cutting fabric for athletic shorts; and
4. evaluate the completeness of garment parts after cutting.

Cutting is a crucial step in tailoring. It should be done with haste. Cutting


needs complete concentration. For best result, assemble everything you need,
including threaded needles for basting, plenty of pins, marking tools, and sharp
cutting tools before you start cutting.

Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained. The
best quality cutting tools are hot-forge, high-grade steel honed to a fine cutting
edge. Blades should be joined with an adjustable screw to ensure even pressure
along the length of the blade.

Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches.


Furthermore, and they do not damage fabric. On the other hand, dull tools slow
the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing cutting
tools should not be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be
sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.

Types of cutting tools and their uses:


 Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears
These are made of quality steel and
hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades move
easily and cut smoothly along the entire
length and the points should come
together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for
most apparel fabrics.
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a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting


b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears, give maximum cutting control and is used for
synthetic fibers and slippery knits

2. Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor
It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and
snipping slashes.

b. Embroidery scissor
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both
points are sharp for use in working with fine details
in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.

c. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.

3. Seam ripper
Hook quickly rips seams, opens buttonholes and
removes stitches. This should be used carefully to
avoid piercing the fabric.

4. Thread clipper
It has spring action blades which are used for
snipping threads.
5. Rotary cutter
It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter used by the garment
industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be used
by left or right-handed sewers. The rotary
cutter is available in different sizes with
different blades. When using a rotary cutter,
work on a cutting mat to protect the blade and the
cutting surface.

6. Pinking shears / scalloping shears


This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge
or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams
and raw edges or many types of fabric. It cuts a
ravel-resistant edge. This is not satisfactory for
straight cutting.

7. Leather shears
56

These are used for cutting leather and suede. It has heavy serrated
edge.
8. Electric shear
This is available in one- or-two-speed models.
Some are battery operated, while the others may be
plugged into a n electric outlet for operation.

Cutting
Cutting with precision makes construction easier and more accurate. It
also contributes to the final success of the garment. To avoid mistakes cut all
pieces in one work session.
Be sure to have an exclusive table for cutting in a suitable place. Get
everything organized and do all the cutting at once.

Observe the precautionary measures while cutting:


1. Work with clean hands.
2. Be careful and never play with your cutting tools.

Steps in Cutting out the Fabrics


1. Have everything handy. Gather all the equipment needed for the cutting
process.
2. Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes.
3. Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and hold before
cutting the fabric.
4. To cut out the piece, rest the cutting shear on the table so that the fabric is
slightly raised.
5. Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones.
6. Cut notches away from seam allowance. Notches help to match sections
during construction.
7. As you cut, walk around the table instead of pulling the materials.
8. Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a cutting table.
This is especially important in knitted fabrics.
9. Cut the entire garment at one time.
10.After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and pattern, for
you will need them in marking the fabric.
11.Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use.

Notes: When cutting, always start at the lower end of cloth or at your left hand
side. Doing this will avoid much remnants.
Regarding the sleeves, the ways may vary, depending on the style. You
may add more allowance on top sleeves, and other kinds of sleeves.
57

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

Self Check 2.3-1

Multiple Choices
Direction: Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the
letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.

1. When cutting the material, this is how notches should be cut from the seam
allowance.
a. downward b. outward c. sideward d. upward
2. This is used when cutting the cloth in order to get clean and evenly cut
edges.
a. blade c. embroidery scissors
b. cutting shears d. pinking shears
3. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics that do not
ravel.
a. baguio cut b. pinking shears c. shears d. scissors
4. It is the best tool in cutting fabric.
a. Pinking shears c. Leather shears
b. Buttonhole scissors d. Dressmakers bent handled shears
5. This type of scissors is only useful in working with fine details of delicate fabrics.
a. buttonhole b. embroidery c. pinking d. trimming
6. Which of the following cutting shears are best for heavy duty cutting?
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears
b. Serrated edge shears
c. Stainless steel blade, and plastic handle
d. Pinking shears
7. Which of the following tools is used in zigzagging scalloped edge for seam
finishes?
a. Leather shears c. Electronic shears
b. Pinking shears d. Bent handled dressmakers shears
8. This cutting tool has spring action blades which are used for snipping
threads.
a. Seam ripper c. Thread clipper
b. Buttonhole scissor d. Rotary cutter
9. Which of the following tools has hook that easily rips seams?
a. Seam ripper c. Thread clipper
b. Trimming scissor d. Buttonhole scissors
10. Which of the following is intended for making buttonholes?
a. Trimming scissors c. Seam ripper
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b. Embroidery scissors d. Buttonhole scissors


TASK SHEET 2.3-1

Title:
Cutting fabric for athletic shorts

Performance Objective:
Given the necessary tools and materials you need to cut fabric for
athletic shorts.

Supplies/Materials:
 Pattern
 Fabric
 Pencil with eraser

Tools/Equipment:
 Cutting shears
 Cutting table
 Pins

Steps/Procedure:
 Gather all tools and materials needed for the cutting process.
 Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes.
 Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and hold before
cutting the fabric.
 To cut out the piece, rest the cutting shear on the table so that the fabric is
slightly raised.
 Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones.
 Cut notches away from seam allowance. Notches help to match sections
during construction.
 As you cut, walk around the table instead of pulling the materials.
 Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a cutting table.
This is especially important in knitted fabrics.
 Cut the entire garment at one time.
 After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and pattern, for
you will need them in marking the fabric.
 Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use.
59

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-1

CRITERIA YE N
S O
1. Gather all the tools and materials needed for the cutting
process?
2. Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes?
3. Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and
hold before cutting the fabric?
4. Rest the cutting shear on the table when cutting the fabric
so that the fabric is slightly raised?
5. Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones?
6. Cut notches away from seam allowance?
7. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the
materials?
8. Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a
cutting table?
9. Cut the entire garment at one time?
10. After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the
pins and pattern, for you will need them in marking the
fabric?
11. Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use?

Comments/Suggestions

Teacher: __________________________________ Date: _________________


60

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