or more than a hundred centuries the Emperor has

F sat immobile on the Golden Throne of Earth. He is

the Master of Mankind by the will of the gods and
master of a million worlds by the might of his inexhaustible
armies. He is a rotting carcass writhing invisibly with power
from the Dark Age of Technology. He is the Carrion Lord
of the Imperium, for whom a thousand souls die every day,
for whom blood is drunk and flesh eaten. Human blood
and human flesh – the stuff of which the Imperium is made.
To be a man in such times is to be one amongst untold
billions. It is to live in the cruellest and most bloody regime
imaginable. This is the tale of those times.
It is a universe you can live today – if you dare – for this is
a dark and terrible era where you will find little comfort or
hope. If you want to take part in the adventure, then prepare
yourself now. Forget the power of technology, science and
common humanity. Forget the promise of progress and
understanding, for there is no peace amongst the stars, only
an eternity of carnage and slaughter and the laughter of
thirsting gods.
But the universe is a big place and, whatever happens, you
will not be missed…

1
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3 PURESTRAIN THE BLESSED
GENESTEALER 12 WORMLINGS 23
THE RUSTED CLAW 4
LIGHT FLESH 13 SONS OF JORMUNGANDR 25
BASECOATING 5
DARK FLESH 14 THE CULT OF THE
SHADING 7 FOUR-ARMED EMPEROR 27
WEAPONS &
DRYBRUSHING 8 METAMORPHS 15 THE HIVECULT 29

LAYERING 9 THE PATRIARCH 17 THE CULT HYDRAIC 31

BASING 11 THE PAUPER PRINCES 19 FAVOURITE PAINT

COMBINATIONS 33
THE BLADED COG 21

DESIGNED BY GAMES WORKSHOP IN NOTTINGHAM

How to Paint Citadel Miniatures: Genestealer Cults © Copyright Games Workshop Limited 2016. How to Paint Citadel Miniatures: Genestealer Cults, How to Paint Citadel Miniatures, GW, Games
Workshop, Space Marine, 40K, Warhammer, Warhammer 40,000, the ‘Aquila’ Double-headed Eagle logo, and all associated logos, illustrations, images, names, creatures, races, vehicles, locations, weapons,
characters, and the distinctive likenesses thereof, are either ® or TM, and/or © Games Workshop Limited, variably registered around the world. All Rights Reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the publishers.
ISBN: 978-1-78572-079-6
This is a work of fiction. All the characters and events portrayed in this book are fictional, and any resemblance to real people or incidents is purely coincidental.
British Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Pictures used for illustrative purposes only.
Certain Citadel products may be dangerous if used incorrectly and Games Workshop does not recommend them for use by children under the age of 16 without adult supervision.
Whatever your age, be careful when using glues, bladed equipment and sprays and make sure that you read and follow the instructions on the packaging.

Games Workshop Ltd., Willow Road, Lenton, Nottingham, NG7 2WS, United Kingdom
games-workshop.com

2
 INTRODUCTION
Designed for hobbyists of all levels of experience, from The second part of this guide focuses on the details that
newcomers to expert miniature painters, this guide will can make your collection really stand out, including
show you how to achieve outstanding results with your tips on how to paint the alien anatomy of Purestrain
Genestealer Cults miniatures. Genestealers and the terrifying Patriarch, how to achieve
varied skin tones, and how to tackle the unique weaponry
Covering all aspects of painting your own Genestealer Cult, that the cults take to war.
this volume features three main sections. The first of these is
a fully illustrated stage-by-stage guide that describes how to A choice of alternative colour schemes is also provided, each
paint an Acolyte Hybrid in the striking colours of the Cult accompanied by a full guide to the required Citadel paints.
of the Rusted Claw using the Citadel Paint System. You’ll From the striking red and turquoise of the Bladed Cog to the
discover the best techniques, brushes and paints to use blue, grey and red of the Cult of the Four-armed Emperor,
when applying Base paints and Shades. You’ll also learn you’ll find more than enough inspiration for an army of
how to emphasise the miniature’s detail using a technique your own. To cap it all, you’ll also discover a host of tips and
called highlighting, which can be achieved by applying tricks directly from our expert studio artists, all designed to
either Layer paints or Dry compounds. The final part of give your Genestealer Cult an impressive visual edge on any
this section shows you how to give your miniature the tabletop battlefield. And of course, once you’re comfortable
perfect finishing touch with an impressively painted base. using the paint system as described in this guide, the sky’s
Replicating these steps on any of your Genestealer Cults the limit. You could even decide to devise a brand new
models will allow you to create a stunning army of which Genestealer Cult paint scheme. After all, it’s your hobby, and
you can be rightly proud. your army.

3
 THE RUSTED CLAW
The harsher the regime, the faster the corrosion of
hatred spreads. Ignoring history’s vital lessons, the
despotic consulate governing the planet Newseam never
envisioned the fate that their cruelty begot. To a cowed
and rancourous populace eager for revenge, the Cult of the
Rusted Claw were welcomed as allies and saviours.

The rusty orange and bright metallic hues worn by

the Rusted Claw are attributed to their belief in the
metallophagic wyrm – a colossal invertebrate that consumes
flesh and machinery with equal voracity. Many of the
Neophyte Hybrids also wear tabards and robes of scarlet,
signifying that they have slaughtered an armed victim on
the command of their leader. While this section covers an
Acolyte Hybrid of the Rusted Claw, the techniques used are
applicable to all of the colour schemes featured in this guide.
Using the same methods on all the units that feature in your
army will give your force a cohesive appearance that makes
them all the more menacing!

Though inherently suited to combat, the armour, fatigues

PAINTS REQUIRED and protective equipment worn by this Neophyte of the
UNDERCOAT Rusted Claw were originally designed for civilian use
Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray within the huge mineral mines of the planet Newseam.
BASE
Abaddon Black Khorne Red
Averland Sunset Leadbelcher
Bugman’s Glow Rhinox Hide
Celestra Grey Screamer Pink
Jokaero Orange Warplock Bronze
Kantor Blue

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Druchii Violet
Nuln Oil
Seraphim Sepia

DRY
Eldar Flesh
Etherium Blue
Imrik Blue
Wrack White

LAYER
Alaitoc Blue
Evil Sunz Scarlet There are two methods that can be used For more precise highlights, carefully
Kislev Flesh
Lothern Blue to highlight a miniature’s raised details. apply lighter Layer paints to raised
Pallid Wych Flesh
Runefang Steel The Acolyte Hybrid pictured above has expanses of flesh, armour and
Skrag Brown
Tau Light Ochre been finished using the drybrushing clothing, and paint fine lines along
Troll Slayer Orange
White Scar technique. Straightforward fast to the miniature’s sharper edges. Both
apply, it makes eye-catching results approaches look great, but for a
easy to achieve. consistent look it’s best to opt for one
and use it for the whole army.

4 4
 After spraying your miniature with an undercoat of
Mechanicus Standard Grey, it’s time to apply Citadel Base
Paints. Delivering bold colours, these provide a solid
foundation for the shading and highlighting that follow.

Put a little paint onto your palette, dip your paintbrush into
your water pot then draw the brush through your paint to
thin it. Load the brush to halfway up its bristles. Apply the
paint evenly and in moderation, taking care to reach every
nook and cranny. You can apply Base paints in a single coat,
but, as you can see here, using two slightly thinned coats will
M Base brush
keep the model’s details beautifully crisp.

1 After spraying an undercoat of Mechanicus Standard

Grey, apply Celestra Grey to the body armour.

M Base brush M Base brush

2 Apply Bugman’s Glow to the creature’s skin – two

thinned-down coats will preserve details. 3 Next, paint the arms, legs and other areas of the
carapace using Kantor Blue.

M Base brush M Layer brush

4 Now use Jokaero Orange to paint the orange cloth of

the Acolyte Hybrid’s robe. 5 Next, apply Screamer Pink to the Acolyte
Hybrid’s tongue.

5
M Layer brush M Layer brush

6 Next, paint the silver-coloured metallic areas of the

gun, chain and armour using Leadbelcher. 7 Apply Warplock Bronze to replicate the brass details
on the collar, cult symbol and gun casing.

XS Artificer Layer brush M Layer brush

8 Carefully pick out the teeth, claws and nails in

Abaddon Black. 9 Next, apply Rhinox Hide to the leather pouches and
the belt.

XS Artificer Layer brush

10 Apply Averland Sunset to the spotlight attached to

the backpack. 11 After applying Khorne Red to pick out the eyes and
the bindings, the base colours are complete.

6
 Citadel Shades enhance the impression of depth in
recessed details. Shades are applied over the Base colour
and coaxed into recesses such as weapon parts, chains,
gaps in armour and folds in clothing.

Because these features are tiny, they won’t catch the light
like their full-sized counterparts would. Effectively, applying
shade is like painting on the shadows and darkness. Shades
can be applied in a focussed way – for example, around the
edges of armour or rivets – or liberally applied all over the
area and allowed to run into the cavities moulded into the
M Shade brush
skin, clothing, weapons and, later, the miniature’s base.

1 Apply Nuln Oil to the blue carapace and silver areas,

including the guns and blades.

M Shade brush M Shade brush

2 Paint Agrax Earthshade over all brass metallic areas

and into the folds, rips and recesses of the robe. 3 Coat the body armour and the shoulder-mounted
spotlight with Seraphim Sepia.

M Shade brush

4 The final Shade is Druchii Violet, which is used to tint

the Acolyte Hybrid’s skin.
Once Shades have been applied, always set the model aside
and allow it to dry completely before continuing.

7
 Citadel Dry compounds are applied using a technique
called drybrushing. They are used to define the model’s
raised details and emphasise any texture. Though quick
and simple, drybrushing offers highly effective results.

Take a special Citadel Dry brush featuring stiff, flat bristles,

and load it as lightly as possible, then skim it rapidly back
and forth across the area. The paint will catch on raised
details and highlight them. A method used by some
hobbyists is to paint the model one area at a time, like the
miniature pictured here. So, basecoat, shade and drybrush
S Dry brush
the armour, then the carapace, and so on.

1 Brush Wrack White across the armour’s ribs, not

along them, so the paint catches on the raised areas.

S Dry brush S Dry brush

2 After applying the Base and Shade colours, drybrush

the carapace and arms using Imrik Blue. 3 Drybrush the carapace once more with Etherium
Blue, applying the Dry compound more subtly.

S Dry brush

4 The final drybrush colour is Eldar Flesh, carefully

applied to the face and hands.
Easier than applying layered highlights, careful drybrushing
creates an impressive, organic-looking effect.

8 8
 Layering is an alternative method of highlighting raised
detail. Citadel Layer paints give the finished miniature
impact and realism by brightening up its colour scheme,
emphasising detail and mimicking reflections or light.

Layer paints are applied as a solid layer or a highlight.

The solid layer is painted onto raised areas, brightening
them while leaving the Base and Shade paints visible in
the recesses. Highlights are applied to the miniature’s
extremities and edges to simulate light catching the various
surfaces. This often calls for two sets of increasingly fine
M Layer brush
lines, one of a lighter colour applied on top of a slightly
deeper hue, always leaving the outer portion of the first layer
visible to create a gentle and natural-looking transition. 1 Apply fine lines of White Scar along the edges of the
plates of body armour.

M Layer brush XS Artificer Layer brush

2 Focussing on the raised areas of skin, apply Kislev

Flesh as shown above. 3 When the Kislev Flesh has dried, apply fine lines of
Pallid Wych Flesh to the same raised areas of skin.

XS Layer brush XS Layer brush

4 Pick out the edges and details of the carapace using

Alaitoc Blue. 5 When dry, apply even finer lines of Lothern Blue to
the extreme edges of the Alaitoc Blue areas.

9
S Layer brush XS Artificer Layer brush

6 The robe is given an all-over coat of Troll Slayer

Orange to create a richer, more intense final colour. 7 Once the robe is dry, paint fine lines of Tau Light
Ochre along the edges and the tops of its creases.

XS Artificer Layer brush XS Artificer Layer brush

8 Now paint fine lines of Runefang Steel to highlight

the dagger and the metallic parts of the armour. 9 To finish, apply Skrag Brown to the edges of the
leather pouches around the creature’s waist.

XS Artificer Layer brush

10 Carefully paint Evil Sunz Scarlet along the edges of

the wrist bindings and in the model’s eyes.
The use of Layer paints to apply highlights gives the
finished miniature a precise, detailed appearance.

10
 Bases are a key focal point, and the best examples elevate
a miniature’s appearance from good to great. Available
separately, the Sector Imperialis base sets give your
Genestealer Cult the ideal dystopian, industrial setting.

While your Genestealer Cult models are supplied with

standard bases that look impressive when decorated using
a generous coat of Citadel Texture paint, coated with Shade
paints and drybrushed, the Sector Imperialis bases are ideal
for Genestealer Cult armies. Available in sets that feature
an evocative assortment of surfaces redolent of Imperial
L Base brush
architecture, these striking bases, painted using this colour
scheme, will perfectly complement your army.
1 After applying an undercoat of Mechanicus Standard
Grey, paint the top of the base with Incubi Darkness.

M Base brush M Shade brush

2 Using a lightly loaded brush for neatness, apply

Balthasar Gold to the raised girder details. 3 Next, apply an even coat of Agrax Earthshade to the
entire top of the base, coaxing it into the recesses.

4 Drybrush the surface with Tyrant Skull – this

highlights the texture and creates a realistic finish. 5 Give the base a neat finishing touch by painting the
rim with Steel Legion Drab.

11
 PURESTRAIN GENESTEALER
The horrendous culmination of the generations of inter-
breeding that follow a Genestealer’s first infestation of an
unspoiled planet, Purestrain Genestealers are as severed
from humanity as their Tyranid ancestors.

Purestrain Genestealers are the first to infiltrate a native

society. They lay seed to four generations of human-xenos
hybrids that culminate in the birth of new Purestrain
Genestealers in the fifth generation. A useful way to
differentiate between the generations of Purestrains in your
collection is to emphasise the Pallid Wych Flesh highlights
on the older creatures’ skin.

1 Apply Kantor Blue to the carapace, then Warpfiend

Grey to the skin and Screamer Pink to the tongue.

2 When dry, apply Nuln Oil to the carapace and

Druchii Violet to the skin and tongue. 3 Reapply Kantor Blue, Warpfiend Grey and Screamer
Pink to the raised details, avoiding any recessed areas.

4 Now use Alaitoc Blue (carapace), Slaanesh Grey

(skin), Pink Horror (tongue), Dark Reaper (claws),
Khorne Red (eyes) and Mephiston Red (markings).
5 Highlight with Lothern Blue (carapace), Pallid Wych
Flesh (skin), Fenrisian Grey (claws), Evil Sunz Scarlet
(markings) and Flash Gitz Yellow (eyes).

12 12
 LIGHT FLESH
Faces are sometimes regarded as one of the toughest
painting challenges, and as they are a natural focal point
of a miniature, a well-finished face lifts the look of the
whole paint job.

Faces can be straightforward if you follow the process

described here – taking extra care with the fine highlights on
the brow, nose, cheekbones and chin. For crisp results, use a
lightly loaded XS Artificer Layer brush on these key details.

1 Apply an undercoat
of Corax White Spray. 2 When dry, apply a
coat of Kislev Flesh. 3 Now add a coat of
Reikland Fleshshade. 4 Apply Druchii Violet,
focussing on the face.

As a general guideline,
when painting light-
coloured flesh the most
natural effects and
highlights are achieved
by starting with a light
basecoat and then gradually
deepening the tones

5 Reapply Kislev Flesh

to the raised areas.
before adding lighter
final highlights. 6 Pick out the raised
detail using Flayed
One Flesh.
7 Finish by adding even
finer lines of Pallid
Wych Flesh.

MARKINGS
Ritual markings are often
worn by members of the
Genestealer Cults, and are a
striking way to add interest
and detail to your finished
army. For best results, use
your smallest brush and
practice the design on a
piece of paper or scrap
sprue before tackling the
1 Using the very tip of
a small brush, paint
on guide dots using
2 Next, add lines of
Mephiston Red to
form guides that
3 Working outwards
from the guidelines,
widen the design.
miniature itself. Mephiston Red. shape the design.

13
 DARK FLESH
Your Genestealer Cult miniatures will look even more
interesting and dynamic if they’re finished with a mix of
different fleshtones. These evocative effects can easily be
achieved by using the methods described here.

This example looks particularly effective when used either

as a contrast against a bright colour scheme such as the Cult
Hydraic, or as a complement to the deeper colours of cults
such as the Sons of Jormungandr.

1 Undercoat using
Chaos Black Spray. 2 Apply a basecoat of
Rhinox Hide. 3 Next, apply Nuln
Oil in an even, all-
over coat.
4 Focussing on the
raised features only,
reapply Rhinox Hide.
Painting darker flesh
calls for almost a reverse
of the technique used for
light flesh. Begin with a
dark undercoat and base
colour before gradually
applying lighter hues
to create effective and

5 Pick out the

raised detail using
Doombull Brown.
eye-catching highlights.
6 Add finer lines of
Tuskgor Fur on top of
the Doombull Brown.
7 Finish with even
finer lines of
Cadian Fleshtone.

MARKINGS
Although this marking
looks difficult, applying
the design is simple as long
as you follow the practice
of using dots to mark out
the spacings of the coil.
Note how the colours of the
designs shown here and on
the previous page have been
chosen to contrast with the
1 Apply guide dots
of Celestra Grey to
establish the position
2 Use an XS Artificer
Layer brush to
connect the dots and
3 Carefully broaden the
shape of the design,
then add the extra
flesh colours. of the finished design. create the shape. embellishments.

14 14
 WEAPONS & METAMORPHS
LASH WHIP

1 First, spray the whip with

Chaos Black. 2 Apply Screamer Pink, and use
Khorne Red for the handle. 3 Paint the whip Druchii Violet,
and the handle Nuln Oil.

4 Reapply the red and pink base

paints to the raised details. 5 Add fine lines of Pink Horror
and Evil Sunz Scarlet. 6 Apply even finer lines of Kislev
Flesh and Fire Dragon Bright.

HEAVY ROCK SAW

1 Over Chaos Black

Spray, apply
Leadbelcher to the
2 Allow the basecoats to
dry thoroughly, then
coat the silver areas
3 Brighten the colour
of the fuel tank by
painting the area with
4 Carefully paint
scratches of Runefang
Steel on the edges
steel areas, Warplock with Nuln Oil. Apply Troll Slayer Orange. of all metallic areas.
Bronze to brass, Agrax Earthshade to Apply diagonal lines Highlight the tank
Jokaero Orange to the brass details and of Abaddon Black to with Fire Dragon
the fuel tank and the fuel tank. create the chevrons on Bright, and use
Averland Sunset the blade’s shield. Fenrisian Grey to give
to the front of the a worn look to the
blade’s shield. shield’s chevrons.

15
BONESWORD

1 First, paint the bonesword using

Abaddon Black. 2 Apply lines of Dark Reaper to
the edges of the blade. 3 Lastly, add fine line highlights
of Fenrisian Grey.

HEAD

1 Spray with Mechanicus

Standard Grey. 2 Apply a layer of
Warpfiend Grey. 3 Shade with
Druchii Violet. 4 Repaint raised areas
with Warpfiend Grey.

5 Apply fine lines of

Slaanesh Grey. 6 Add still-finer lines of
Pallid Wych Flesh.

BRAIN

1 Paint the brain and

tongue Screamer Pink. 2 Shade these details
using Druchii Violet. 3 Apply Pink Horror to
the brain’s detail. 4 Lastly, add touches of
Kislev Flesh.

CARAPACE

1 Apply Kantor Blue to

the carapace. 2 Shade with an even
coat of Nuln Oil. 3 Apply Alaitoc Blue to
the details. 4 Add lines of
Lothern Blue.

METAMORPH COLOURS
The colours used here for the carapace, violet-hued flesh,
brain and livid tongue are shared by all of the Genestealer
Cults, so it’s well worth taking a little time to perfect the
technique before you apply it to your own alien army.

16
 THE PATRIARCH
The hissing, vicious apex of a CARAPACE
Genestealer Cult, the Patriarch is
both its founder and one of its most
lethal assets.

Of petrifying stature and strength, the

Patriarch towers over men and can
tear even vehicles apart with tooth and
claw. Painting this army centrepiece
is a highly enjoyable project, as it
allows you to showcase many of the
techniques detailed in this guide. 1 Begin by applying a basecoat of
Kantor Blue. 2 Apply an even coat of Nuln Oil
Shade paint, and let it dry.

3 Reapply Kantor Blue, focussing

on the raised areas only. 4 Paint the edges of the segments
using Alaitoc Blue. 5 Finish by applying even finer
lines of Lothern Blue.

FLESH

1 This skin was basecoated with

Daemonette Hide. 2 Carefully apply a layer of
Warpfiend Grey. 3 Next, add a coat of Druchii
Violet Shade paint.

4 Reapply Warpfiend Grey,

focussing on the raised details. 5 Using Slaanesh Grey, apply fine
lines to the same raised details. 6 To finish, apply even finer lines
of Pallid Wych Flesh.

17
TONGUE

1 Apply a
basecoat of
Screamer Pink.
2 Shade the entire
area using
Druchii Violet.
3 Reapply
Screamer Pink
to raised areas.
4 Paint the raised
details with
Pink Horror.
5 Add fine
highlights of
Kislev Flesh.

CLAWS EYES

1 Paint the
claws with
Abaddon Black.
2 When dry,
apply fine lines
of Dark Reaper.
3 Finish with
finer lines of
Fenrisian Grey.
1 Paint the
eyes using
Mephiston Red.
2 Apply fine
dots of Flash
Gitz Yellow.

PIPE

1 Basecoat the pipe

using Leadbelcher. 2 Paint the coupling, valve and
small pipe Retributor Armour. 3 Apply an even coat of
Agrax Earthshade.

SLIME

Apply Ulthuan Grey, then Coelia

4 Highlight the raised details

using Runefang Steel. 5 Finally, apply Nihilakh Oxide
to replicate corrosion.
Greenshade. Tidy with Ulthuan Grey
and add White Scar to raised details.

SKULLS

1 First, paint
the skulls with
Rakarth Flesh.
2 Apply an
even coat of
Seraphim Sepia.
3 Reapply
Rakarth Flesh –
avoid recesses.
4 Apply Pallid
Wych Flesh to
raised areas.
5 Add fine lines
of White Scar
as highlights.

18
 THE PAUPER PRINCES
Such is the wretched squalor found among the immense salt mines of Chancer’s Vale that the workforce embraced the
cult of the Pauper Princes without coercion. Offering an escape from their slavish lives, the cult soon amassed a vast and
fearsome army of devotees, all mindlessly bound to the savage will of their Patriarch, the Star Saviour.

THEY WHO DESPISE ALL WEALTH

This scheme is applied over Corax White Spray, as this ensures that the miniature’s
final colours are vivid and eye-catching. Apply the Base paints listed below,
followed by the three Shade paints, which emphasise the miniature’s recessed
details. Neophyte miniatures feature lots of nooks and crannies, so when applying
the Shades, make sure that the colour settles in all of the cavities – just remember
to use a dry brush to ‘mop up’ any areas where too much has collected. Allow the
Shade to dry thoroughly before brightening and highlighting the model’s details,
either by drybrushing with compounds or highlighting with Layer paints to
achieve a sharp finish.

Undercoat with Tunic: Mephiston Red Armour, Rubber, Tunic, Trousers

Corax White Spray. Trousers: Mechanicus Standard Grey & Brass: Agrax Earthshade
Silver: Leadbelcher Silver, Black Leather, Brown Leather
Black Leather: Abaddon Black & Blue Cloth: Nuln Oil
Brown Leather: Rhinox Hide Skin: Druchii Violet
Skin: Bugman’s Glow
Brass: Balthasar Gold
Blue Cloth: Stegadon Scale Green

19
 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Corax White Spray

BASE
Abaddon Black Mephiston Red
Balthasar Gold Rhinox Hide
Bugman’s Glow Stegadon Scale
Leadbelcher Green
Mechanicus
Standard Grey

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Druchii Violet
Nuln Oil

DRY
Dawnstone
Eldar Flesh
Necron Compound
Armour & Rubber: Wrack White Mounted on a Sector Imperialis base, Wrack White
Silver & Brass: Necron Compound this cultist menacingly stalks the LAYER
Black Leather: Dawnstone urban wasteland. Visually striking, Cadian Fleshtone Runefang Steel
Dawnstone Sotek Green
Skin: Eldar Flesh these bases are simple to decorate and Evil Sunz Scarlet Temple Guard Blue
Fire Dragon Bright Ulthuan Grey
are perfectly suited to Genestealer Gorthor Brown White Scar
Kislev Flesh
Cults miniatures.

Armour & Rubber: Ulthuan Grey Armour & Rubber: White Scar Used in many tabletop armies, ‘spot
Tunic: Evil Sunz Scarlet Tunic: Fire Dragon Bright colours’ are a great way to link your
Black Leather: Dawnstone Silver & Brass: Runefang Steel warriors together. The technique works
Brown Leather: Gorthor Brown Skin: Kislev Flesh best with a bright colour used sparingly
Skin: Cadian Fleshtone Blue Cloth: Temple Guard Blue on each model. Here, the blue of the
Blue Cloth: Sotek Green cultist’s armband can be replicated on
small details throughout the collection
to create a sense of coherency.

20
 THE BLADED COG
Slinking from the bowels of a cargo vessel, the Purestrain Genestealer that made its way to Feinminster Gamma would
go on to be revered as a saviour. Spurred into revolt by a Cult Mechanicus expedition to harvest their bio-electricity, the
planet’s inhabitants flocked to a new and even harsher enslavement – as broodkin of the Bladed Cog.

FAITH MAKES FEAR

With dark reds that echo the Martian forge temples contrasting with oceanic
blue-green hues, this is a dramatic scheme that works best when applied over
a Chaos Black undercoat. Spray the paint in short bursts, ensuring complete
coverage. Next, the Base paints are applied. Be careful when painting the knee
pads, as any stray paint will show up on the much darker fatigues – but you can
use Incubi Darkness to cover up any mistakes. Apply Shades in moderation to
bring out the detail, drying the brush and removing any excess with its bristles.
Lastly, highlight raised details by applying both stages of Layer paints, or the Dry
compounds listed opposite.

Undercoat with Red Armour: Khorne Red Red Armour, Fatigues, Silver, Brass &
Chaos Black Spray. Rubber: Celestra Grey Leather: Nuln Oil
Fatigues: Incubi Darkness Rubber & Bindings: Agrax Earthshade
Silver: Leadbelcher Skin: Druchii Violet
Brown Leather: Rhinox Hide
Skin: Bugman’s Glow
Brass: Balthasar Gold
Bindings: Zandri Dust

21
 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Chaos Black Spray

BASE
Balthasar Gold Leadbelcher
Bugman’s Glow Rhinox Hide
Celestra Grey Zandri Dust
Incubi Darkness
Khorne Red

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Druchii Violet
Nuln Oil

DRY
Astorath Red
Eldar Flesh
Hellion Green
Necron Compound
Fatigues: Hellion Green As you can see above, drybrushing can Wrack White
Red Armour: Astorath Red achieve outstanding results. Applied
LAYER
Silver: Necron Compound using an S Dry brush for accuracy, it’s a Cadian Fleshtone Runefang Steel
Dawnstone Sybarite Green
Skin: Eldar Flesh time-saving technique. So, if you like to Evil Sunz Scarlet Ulthuan Grey
Gorthor Brown Ushabti Bone
Rubber: Wrack White put a lot of models on the table fast, it Kabalite Green White Scar
might well be the method for you. Kislev Flesh Wild Rider Red
Pallid Wych Flesh

Red Armour: Evil Sunz Scarlet Red Armour: Wild Rider Red The human-like fleshtones featured on
Rubber: Ulthuan Grey Rubber: White Scar this cultist were created by applying
Fatigues: Kabalite Green Fatigues: Sybarite Green two diluted layers of Cadian Fleshtone.
Black Leather: Dawnstone Silver: Runefang Steel Each coat was thinned at a 2:1 ratio
Brown Leather: Gorthor Brown Skin: Kislev Flesh of paint to Lahmian Medium, and
Skin: Cadian Fleshtone Bindings: Pallid Wych Flesh applied only when the underlying paint
Bindings: Ushabti Bone was fully dry.

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 THE BLESSED WORMLINGS
By sustaining themselves solely on grubs and leeches scraped from the grave-strewn soil of Masuchi Parr, the Blessed
Wormlings seek to honour the Star Emperor with their lowliness. However, the divinity they worship is no living god of
humanity but the Great Devourer, the Tyranid beast that longs to gorge itself on all mankind.

ANNELID ANNIHILATORS
Begin this colour scheme by applying Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray. This
not only makes for a useful shortcut, eliminating the need to apply a basecoat to
the warrior’s fatigues, but also provides the ideal foundation for the brown, grey
and beige mid-tone hues that feature throughout this earthy and evocative livery.
Apply the Base colours in two coats, thinning the paint down at a ratio of three
parts paint to one part water. Follow this with the Shade paints, ensuring that
they reach the recesses, before adding Layer or Dry paints to the raised details. It’s
worth noting that this scheme benefits particularly from precise, sharp highlights
at the Layer 2 stage – so use your smallest brush and go carefully.

Undercoat with Mechanicus Armour: Zandri Dust Armour & Skin: Reikland Fleshshade
Standard Grey Spray. Rubber: Incubi Darkness Rubber, Dark Brown Leather, Brass,
Red Cloth & Details: Khorne Red Red Cloth & Details: Nuln Oil
Silver: Leadbelcher Fatigues, Silver, Light Brown Leather:
Dark Brown Leather: Rhinox Hide Agrax Earthshade
Light Brown Leather:
Mournfang Brown
Skin: Ratskin Flesh
Brass: Balthasar Gold

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 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray
BASE
Balthasar Gold Mournfang Brown
Incubi Darkness Ratskin Flesh
Khorne Red Rhinox Hide
Leadbelcher Zandri Dust

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Nuln Oil
Reikland Fleshshade

DRY
Dawnstone
Eldar Flesh
Hellion Green
Necron Compound
Tyrant Skull
Armour: Tyrant Skull Martian Ironearth is the perfect
LAYER
Rubber: Hellion Green Texture paint for this scheme, as it
Cadian Fleshtone Skrag Brown
Fatigues: Dawnstone captures the look of this cult’s barren Dawnstone Sybarite Green
Gorthor Brown Ushabti Bone
Silver: Necron Compound yet mineral-rich planet perfectly. The Kabalite Green Wazdakka Red
Kislev Flesh Wild Rider Red
Skin: Eldar Flesh paint is applied in one generous coat, Pallid Wych Flesh Zamesi Desert
Runefang Steel
which cracks and fissures as it dries.

Armour: Ushabti Bone Armour: Pallid Wych Flesh In this colour scheme, Agrax
Rubber: Kabalite Green Rubber: Sybarite Green Earthshade was used to shade the
Red Cloth & Details: Wazdakka Red Red Cloth & Details: Wild Rider Red metallic paints, rather than Nuln Oil.
Fatigues: Dawnstone Silver & Brass: Runefang Steel This creates an oily, grimy look that
Dark Brown Leather: Gorthor Brown Light Brown Leather: Zamesi Desert helps make the model look like it’s from
Light Brown Leather: Skrag Brown Skin: Kislev Flesh an arid industrial world. Painting
Skin: Cadian Fleshtone themes such as this can give your army
a really strong visual narrative.

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 SONS OF JORMUNGANDR
The Sons of Jormungandr are concealed within the lonely space stations that span the Black Nebula. Sly and covert, they
crept through the web of these isolated bases, rapidly infecting the doomed crews. Now they muster in strength, waiting
for their parent hive fleet to reclaim their Patriarch and tear the entire nebula asunder.

THE INSIDIOUS SONS

Although it appears intricate, the Sons of Jormungandr’s striking scheme is in
reality quite straightforward to achieve. Undercoat using Chaos Black Spray, as
this gives the body armour an instant basecoat, and provides shading beneath the
brighter colours. Add Base paints, followed by the Shade colours, concentrating
on the recesses. Finally, apply highlights using either Dry or Layer paints. If you
choose to use the layering technique, you will find that the final stage requires the
use of Technical paints rather than Layer paints. The Druchii Violet, thinned with
an equal amount of Lahmian Medium, creates a convincing alien skin effect, while
Waystone Green over silver can be used to detail any kind of glowing lens.

Undercoat with Fatigues: Averland Sunset Fatigues: Fuegan Orange

Chaos Black Spray. Silver: Leadbelcher Silver, Brass & Brown Leather:
Brown Leather: Mournfang Brown Agrax Earthshade
Skin: Rakarth Flesh Skin: Reikland Fleshshade
Brass: Balthasar Gold

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 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Chaos Black Spray

BASE
Averland Sunset
Balthasar Gold
Leadbelcher
Mournfang Brown
Rakarth Flesh

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Fuegan Orange
Reikland Fleshshade

DRY
Eldar Flesh
Hexos Palesun
Hoeth Blue
Necron Compound
Armour, Silver & Brass: Silver is used to highlight the
Necron Compound armour, giving it a worn, metallic LAYER
Deathclaw Brown Thunderhawk Blue
Fatigues: Hexos Palesun appearance that not only ties in with Pallid Wych Flesh Yriel Yellow
Stormhost Silver
Black Leather: Hoeth Blue the industrial theme of the cult, but
TECHNICAL
Skin: Eldar Flesh counterbalances the matte effect of the Lahmian Medium
bright orange fatigues. Waystone Green

Armour, Silver, Brass & Lenses: Skin: Druchii Violet & Lahmian Instead of painting fine highlights on
Stormhost Silver Medium (50/50 mix) the extreme edges of the miniature’s
Fatigues: Yriel Yellow Lenses: Waystone Green armour and weapon, Layer paints are
Black Leather: Thunderhawk Blue used to add scratches and chips to these
Brown Leather: Deathclaw Brown areas. While these are easier to apply
Skin: Pallid Wych Flesh than precise edge highlights, best results
are still achieved by working carefully
and building up the effect gradually.

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 CULT OF THE FOUR-ARMED EMPEROR
Wearing the blue and grey of the Great Pit Mining Corps, the human origins of the Cult of the Four-armed Emperor
are clear. Now, embellished with the blood-red of their brood, the cult’s ranks have swelled to staggering levels. Even the
Deathwatch Space Marines – dedicated xenos-killers – have so far failed to eradicate them.

SUBTERREANEAN TERROR
Begin this scheme by undercoating with Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray, which
also provides the body armour with its basecoat. Follow the undercoat with the
Base paints listed below. Basecoating as neatly as you can is always a good habit,
especially where the colours border a sprayed basecoat, which is more difficult to
tidy up if you make a mistake. Next – and slightly unusually – the first set of Layer
paints is then applied (whether you are highlighting with Layer paints or Dry
paints), providing a solid and vibrant foundation for the Shade paints that follow.
Apply the Shade paints as normal, and then highlight the model using either the
Dry paints or the Layer 2 paints stage, as shown below.

Undercoat with Mechanicus Rubber & Black: Abaddon Black Armour: Dawnstone
Standard Grey Spray. Fatigues: Stegadon Scale Green Fatigues: Thunderhawk Blue
Silver: Leadbelcher Skin: Cadian Fleshtone
Brown Leather: Mournfang Brown Brass: Brass Scorpion
Skin: Bugman’s Glow
Red Details: Khorne Red
Brass: Warplock Bronze
Lamp: Ceramite White

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 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray

BASE
Abaddon Black Mournfang Brown
Bugman’s Glow Stegadon Scale
Ceramite White Green
Khorne Red Warplock Bronze
Leadbelcher

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade
Casandora Yellow
Druchii Violet
Nuln Oil
DRY
Astorath Red Longbeard Grey
Armour: Longbeard Grey When painting a colour scheme Dawnstone Necron Compound
Eldar Flesh Stormfang
Rubber & Black: Dawnstone composed predominantly of darker Golgfag Brown
Fatigues: Stormfang hues, using lighter tones to decorate the LAYER
Silver: Necron Compound base will give the model extra visual Administratum Dawnstone
Grey Kislev Flesh
Red Details: Astorath Red impact. The same is true in reverse – a Balor Brown Runefang Steel
Brass Scorpion Thunderhawk Blue
Skin: Eldar Flesh lighter colour scheme will benefit from Cadian Fleshtone Wild Rider Red
Brown Leather: Golgfag Brown a darker base.

Armour, Brown Leather & Brass: Armour: Administratum Grey Overuse of ‘cold’ tones can diminish the
Agrax Earthshade Fatigues, Rubber & Black: Dawnstone look of a miniature. By painting specific
Fatigues, Silver & Red Details: Silver & Brass: Runefang Steel details in brighter, warmer colours, the
Nuln Oil Brown Leather: Balor Brown scheme retains its contrast and interest.
Skin: Druchii Violet Skin: Kislev Flesh Here, the vibrant yellow lamp, crimson
Lamp: Casandora Yellow Red Details: Wild Rider Red bindings and brass gunstock are the
perfect counterbalance to the industrial
blues and greys.

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 THE HIVECULT
Compelled by unthinking servility, members of the aggressive Hivecult garb themselves in bone and violet hues
reminiscent of Hive Fleet Leviathan. In contrast are the industrial black of their rubber armour and the chemical blue-
green of their upper plate, which point to their origins on the pollution-scarred planet of New Gidlam.

THE RUINOUS SWARM

With its predominantly darker colours, this scheme is applied over an undercoat
of Chaos Black Spray. The following sequence is slightly unusual, in that the
Layer 1 paints are used before the Shades. This early application of Layer 1 paints,
applied directly over the basecoat, creates a rich and vivid effect that makes
for a dramatic finished miniature. Next, the Shade paints are applied and then
highlights added to the raised details in the conventional manner, using either the
drybrushing or layering technique. Note that the Druchii Violet in the Shade stage
is applied predominately over the face, leaving the top of the head pale to imbue
the miniature with a convincingly alien appearance.

Undercoat with Armour & Carapace Arms: Armour: Kabalite Green

Chaos Black Spray. Incubi Darkness Fatigues: Ushabti Bone
Magenta Cloth: Screamer Pink Skin: Slaanesh Grey
Fatigues: Zandri Dust Green Details: Warpstone Glow
Silver: Leadbelcher Brass: Brass Scorpion
Brown Leather: Rhinox Hide
Skin: Daemonette Hide
Green Details: Waaagh! Flesh
Brass: Balthasar Gold

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 PAINTS REQUIRED

UNDERCOAT
Chaos Black Spray

BASE
Balthasar Gold Rhinox Hide
Daemonette Hide Screamer Pink
Incubi Darkness Waaagh! Flesh
Leadbelcher Zandri Dust

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade Druchii Violet
Biel-Tan Green Nuln Oil
Coelia Greenshade Seraphim Sepia

DRY
Dawnstone Imrik Blue
Eldar Flesh Necron Compound
Hellion Green Terminatus Stone

Armour: Hellion Green With its violet flesh and blue chitin, this LAYER
Brass Scorpion Runefang Steel
Skin: Eldar Flesh miniature is clearly a third-generation Dawnstone Screaming Skull
Silver & Brass: Necron Compound cultist. Its alien appearance provides Emperor’s Slaanesh Grey
Children Sotek Green
Carapace Arms: Imrik Blue the perfect opportunity to try out Gorthor Brown Sybarite Green
Kabalite Green Ushabti Bone
Rubber & Black: Dawnstone different techniques and experiment Kislev Flesh Warpstone Glow
Moot Green
Fatigues: Terminatus Stone with alternative colours.

Armour, Brown Leather & Armour: Sybarite Green They may be hybrids, but your models
Magenta Cloth: Nuln Oil Rubber & Black Leather: Dawnstone won’t benefit from cross-contaminated
Fatigues: Seraphim Sepia Magenta Cloth: Emperor’s Children basecoat colours. Ensure your brush
Silver & Brass: Agrax Earthshade Fatigues: Screaming Skull is scrupulously clean when switching
Skin: Druchii Violet Silver & Brass: Runefang Steel from one to the next to avoid tainting
Green Details: Biel-Tan Green Brown Leather: Gorthor Brown the different hues. Many hobbyists
Carapace Arms: Coelia Greenshade Skin: Kislev Flesh reserve separate brushes for applying
Green Details: Moot Green metallic-coloured paints.
Carapace Arms: Sotek Green

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 THE CULT HYDRAIC
For centuries, the grimy docks of Vigilance Quadrex have been the home port to countless rust-peppered freighters.
Outwardly, the plodding cargo hulks plied a mundane trade across the vast Segmentum Pacificus. Yet, deep within their
holds, the Purestrain Genestealers of Cult Hydraic were secreted in their thousands – a lethal export indeed.

FAR-FLUNG BROODKIN
A high-contrast colour scheme of both vibrant and darker hues, this livery works
best over the neutral tones of a Mechanicus Standard Grey undercoat. As always,
and particularly with vivid schemes like this, the secret behind a really impressive
finished army is to paint as neatly as you can throughout each stage, making sure
that the paintbrush is cleaned thoroughly before switching from one colour to the
next. Start with Base paints, ensuring that the areas of contrasting orange and blue
are firmly defined. Move on to the Shade paints, which have been chosen to give
the model a dingy, industrial appearance. Then add highlights, using either the
layering or drybrushing technique.

Undercoat with Mechanicus Armour & Bindings: Rakarth Flesh Armour: Reikland Fleshshade
Standard Grey Spray. Rubber & Black: Abaddon Black Fatigues: Fuegan Orange
Fatigues: Jokaero Orange Blue Cloth: Agrax Earthshade
Blue Cloth: The Fang Silver, Brown Leather, Blue Details,
Silver: Leadbelcher Carapace Arms & Brass: Nuln Oil
Brown Leather: Rhinox Hide Skin: Druchii Violet
Skin: Bugman’s Glow
Blue Details: Caledor Sky
Carapace Arms: Kantor Blue
Brass: Warplock Bronze

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 PAINTS REQUIRED
UNDERCOAT
Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray

BASE
Abaddon Black Kantor Blue
Bugman’s Glow Leadbelcher
Caledor Sky Rakarth Flesh
The Fang Rhinox Hide
Jokaero Orange Warplock Bronze

SHADE
Agrax Earthshade Nuln Oil
Druchii Violet Reikland
Fuegan Orange Fleshshade

DRY
Dawnstone Kindleflame
Eldar Flesh Necron Compound
Imrik Blue Tyrant Skull
Armour: Tyrant Skull Some Neophytes are blessed with LAYER
Rubber & Black: Dawnstone partial Genestealer anatomy, as shown Administratum
Grey Fire Dragon Bright
Fatigues: Kindleflame on this model. If you’re modelling Alaitoc Blue Kislev Flesh
Balor Brown Lothern Blue
Silver & Brass: Necron Compound a different cult, you can paint the Blue Horror Pallid Wych Flesh
Cadian Fleshtone Runefang Steel
Carapace Arms: Imrik Blue carapace as shown here, but substitute Dawnstone Russ Grey
Doombull Brown Screaming Skull
Skin: Eldar Flesh your cult’s armour colours. Fenrisian Grey Troll Slayer Orange

Armour: Screaming Skull Armour: Pallid Wych Flesh Every base is a focal point, but a good
Rubber & Black: Dawnstone Rubber & Black: Administratum Grey base should complement rather than
Fatigues: Troll Slayer Orange Fatigues: Fire Dragon Bright dominate the miniature. Here, the
Blue Cloth: Russ Grey Blue Cloth: Fenrisian Grey texture has been drybrushed with the
Brown Leather: Doombull Brown Silver & Brass: Runefang Steel same Dawnstone compound used for
Skin: Cadian Fleshtone Brown Leather: Balor Brown the rubber armour and black boots,
Carapace Arms & Blue Details: Skin: Kislev Flesh providing a subtle link between the
Alaitoc Blue Blue Details: Blue Horror figure and its environment.
Carapace Arms: Lothern Blue

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 FAVOURITE PAINT COMBINATIONS
The Citadel Paint System takes the guesswork out of great painting. At its heart are a range of premium water-based
acrylic colours that are designed to be used in a set sequence for impressive results. This chart includes some common
combinations used when painting Genestealer Cults miniatures, and makes for a handy at-a-glance guide.

OR
BRASS

N/A

Balthasar Gold Agrax Earthshade Necron Compound Runefang Steel

PURPLE SKIN

Daemonette Hide Druchii Violet Slaanesh Grey Warpfiend Grey Slaanesh Grey
CARAPACE

Kantor Blue Nuln Oil Imrik Blue Alaitoc Blue Lothern Blue
SILVER

N/A

Leadbelcher Nuln Oil Necron Compound Runefang Steel

BLACK

Abaddon Black Nuln Oil Dawnstone Dark Reaper Fenrisian Grey

RED

Mephiston Red Agrax Earthshade Astorath Red Evil Sunz Scarlet Fire Dragon Bright

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 CODEX: GENESTEALER CULTS
TURN YOUR BEAUTIFULLY PAINTED GENESTEALER CULT MODELS
INTO AN ARMY TO CONQUER THE TABLETOP. THE CODEX CONTAINS
ALL THE RULES YOU NEED TO CREATE A DEVOURING HORDE

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