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Instructions To The Sewing PDF Pattern
Instructions To The Sewing PDF Pattern
Instructions to the sewing
PDF pattern
Shopping list 2
Printing instructions 3
Sizing instructions 4
SIZE CHART 4
Cut instructions 6
Sewing instructions 8
Detail preparation 8
The main details 8
Lining 11
Ironing 12
Skirt hem 12
Attaching the bodice to the skirt 12
Installing zipper 14
Straps and attaching lining 15
Preparing and attaching cups 17
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Shopping list
You will need the following materials to sew the Rose Cafe bustier dress:
- The main fabric. In the sample it is textured tweed with lurex, which is the
best. I recommend you to take soft, thick or medium thick, non-stretchy
fabrics or with a small percentage of elastane in a composition.
- Interfacing to stabilize the main parts of the bodice, should be thick enough,
but not stiff like paper
- Lining. If you use stretchy fabric, a lining should be stretchy too.
- Ribbon for straps . Also can be sewn from any fabric.
- Hidden zipper.
- Underwire channeling (optional) I use it to cover an overlock stitch on the
cup seam, in this case channeling is a decoration. You can leave it with an
overlock stitch if you don't have this channeling or use soft elastic. Also you
can put matching underwires in channels, but the instructions don't provide
it.
Main fabric 0,95 m 38”
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Make sure the printer settings are set to 100% (Actual size) and print only the
first page with the test square, the inner square must be 5cm x 5cm (or 2” x
2” on the outer square for inches). Check it with a ruler. If the measurements
are correct, print the remaining pages.
Sizing instructions
1. Take your measurements
Measure the body circumference at the bust, underbust, waist and hip. Keep
the tape straight and parallel to the floor.
SIZE CHART
XXS XS S M L XL
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inches
XXS AA
XS A
S B
M C
L D
XL E
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Pattern cut instructions
This pattern contains 2 parts: the bodice (bustier), which details are each on its
own page, you don't need to assemble it, just cut the details; the second part
is the skirt part, which must be assembled (by trimming or folding margins
and taping together).
The pattern has numeric markings to help you figure out which pages should
be next to each other. The skirt pattern contains 8 pages, 2 pages in a row, 4
rows. Line up the all pattern lines and use clear tape to tape the pages
together. Make sure you are lining up the edges straight and that the pages
are laying flat. If you prefer, you can assemble all the pieces and then trace
your size off so that if you need a different size you don’t have to reassemble
the pattern.
Pattern pieces have 1 cm (0,4” 25/64”) seam allowances, the skirt hem allowance
is 3 cm (1,2” 1 3/16”).
Cut instructions
Fabric should be folded x2 along the grainline. Cut the bodice parts out of the
main fabric, lining and interfacing ( (int.) on the pattern pieces), and skirt
parts out of the main fabric and lining. Make note of the grain line and
centerpieces that need to be placed on the fold. Don't forget to mark the
darts and other notches.
Note that the lining skirt is shorter than the main fabric skirt and is equal to the
main fabric skirt without the hem seam allowance.
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Detail Main fabric Lining Interfacing
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Sewing instructions
To understand the instruction better, you are welcome to watch a
video with the whole sewing process on my YouTube channel:
DARIA Patternmaking https://youtu.be/yCRjTz81oa0
1. Detail preparation
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the all bodice details. It helps the bodice
maintain its shape. Iron on the stabilizing stay tape along the top edges of
each bodice detail to prevent them from stretching. Also iron on the
interfacing tape along the skirt edges, where the zipper is going to be and
on the bottom hems.
2. The main details
1. Pin the centerpiece of the bodice
and front side pieces together. The
same way pin back centerpieces
and back side pieces together.
Stitch together. Note the notches,
pin and sew the lower cup center
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pieces and lower side pieces together.
If you have a plaid or striped fabric, the garment will look better if the stripes in
the seams are aligned.
2. Pin and stitch the side seams of the bodice.
3. When all the main parts of the bodice are sewn together, use overlock
(serger) to prevent fraying. Also you can use zig-zag stitch or skip this step if
your fabric does not fray so much, because the bodice will be covered by
lining. Also do this with the sewn cup details.
4. Pin and sew the skirt front and back darts, baste with temporary stitches if
needed (depends on your skills, this won't be mentioned in the text further).
5. Overlock all the skirt details except the top edges with darts.
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6. Put all the bodice seam allowances to the center and top stitch in 5 mm
(0,2”) from the seams. Side seam allowances go to the front center. It is easy
to follow the sewing machine foot edge along the seam, it will be
approximately 5 mm top stitch depending on your sewing machine.
Do the same with cups. Remember to put the seam allowance to the center
piece.
7. Overlock the top edges of the bodice and back center edges if your fabric is
fraying.
8. Stitch upper cup details to lower cups, overlock the edges, put allowances to
the upper detail and top stitch as we have done it in the bodice part.
3. Lining
1. Sew all parts together as we have done with the main fabric, skip the
overlock and top stitching part. Stitch the front seams, back seams, side
seams, sew cup details together.
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2. Sew the skirt side seams and the back center seam, leaving the space for
the zipper. Measure your actual zipper length and make a notch where the
back center seam starts. (In my zipper installation method I sew additional
1,5-2 cm (1”), see further).
3. Overlock skirt lining center seam as open seam and the side seams as
closed seams.
4. Ironing
1. Put the lining bodice seam allowances towards the centers and press the
seams close.
2. Do the same with the skirt part. Seam allowances on the skirt go backwards.
Press the back center seam open.
3. Let's prepare the bottom hem at once. Fold 0,7-1 cm on the lining skirt part
and press. It will be much easier to fold it for a second time when sewing.
4. Press the cups very slightly.
5. Press all the seams on the main fabric skirt open.
6. Fold 3 cm and press the bottom hem. Be careful at rounded areas near the
side seams.
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5. Skirt hem
1. Finish the hem on the main fabric skirt if you are sure about the dress
length. If not sure, you can do it in the end. I prefer to do it now because it is
easier for me to finish the skirt fully and then to attach the bodice.
2. Fold 0,7-1 cm on the prefold lining hem and stitch the seam as soon as
possible to the folded line, 1 mm approximately.
3.
6. Attaching the bodice to the skirt
1. Attach the bodice to the bottom with
their right sides. Use pins to match skirt
darts with seams, and the skirt center
notch with the bodice center notch.
Notice that the bodice side seams are
not lined up with skirt side seams in
this pattern.
When it is bustier, it is better when a side
seam is next to a cup to provide
additional support to a cup, especially
if we use bones. With this pattern you
can sew the corset with bones,
underwires and foam cups, maybe I
will show you the technology next time.
But this model is a lightweight dress, so I didn't want to complicate it. At the
same time we have the skirt side seam which should divide the skirt
approximately on 2 parts, (a front part usually is a little bit wider).
2. Sew the parts together and use an overlock.
3. Press the seam allowance to the skirt side.
4. Instead of sewing darts on the lining part of the
skirt, lay folds from the dart notches. Match the
notches at the end of each dart line. Pin them
together. Also pin the fold towards the center.
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Leave pins in until attaching the bodice to the bottom. Do this with all 4
lining skirt darts.
5. Attach the lining bodice part to the bottom with their right sides. Use pins to
match the skirt folds with bodice seams, and the skirt center notch with the
bodice center notch.
6. Sew the bodice and the skirt together. Stitch from the skirt left side to
control the folds and their direction. Overlock and press the seam towards
the skirt.
7. Press the folds on the skirt. Find an approximate dart point and press the
fold that should end in this point. It turns out an unstitched dart that can
open up and the lining will not hold down the hips. Do this with all 4 skirt
darts.
8. Press the hem both on lining and the main dress.
7. Installing zipper
I will show the way how I do it without hand basting, you can sew it the way you
like.
If your invisible zipper is too long and needs to be trimmed, measure and cut
your zipper to the appropriate length. Assuming you’ve trimmed your
invisible zipper, you will need to create a new bottom stop by simply hand
stitching around the zipper teeth. Heat seal the end of the zipper using a
lighter.
1. Place the closed zipper right side down along the seam edge. Leave 1cm
from the top edge. Leave a 1,5-2 cm (½-⅔”) zipper tail, the zipper bottom
stop should be below the stitched back seam starts.
2. Start at the top edge and stitch 5 mm from the zipper teeth on the zipper
tape with your usual sewing foot along all the zipper until the back seam
starts.
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3. Pin the zipper’s tape tail on the back seam,
match the centers. Mark the waist seam
placement on the second zipper side,
because they should match when the zipper
is closed. Pin the second seam edge to the
zipper matching the waist seam with the
mark. Stitch the second side from the
bottom to the top. I do this step instead of
basting. This prevents the zipper from
shifting and allows you to stitch the zipper
down more neatly.
4. Now put on an invisible zipper foot. Check
that waist seam is matched. Open the
zipper and put the zipper slider below the
back seam start. That is why you should
leave a 1,5-2 cm (½-⅔”) zipper tail and sew
the zipper until the back seam starts, not a
zipper stop.
5. Start at the top edge and stitch in place
until the foot reaches the back seam start.
6. Do the same with the second side.
7. Release the zipper slider through the small
remaining hole between the zipper and the
back seam and close the zipper.
8. Stitch the zipper tape tail to the back seam allowances.
9. Press the zipper.
8. Straps and attaching lining
1. We have 4 straps out of a ribbon, 55 cm (22”) each. You can do longer straps
to have bigger bows. Straps go from the dress with a small angle, so cut the
ribbon corner to form this angle (approximately 0,5 cm (0,2”) to cut from one
corner). Heat seal cut ends.
2. Pin the straps matching to the seams on the back.
3. Attach the lining to the main dress. Pin along the top edge all over the
bodice, including underbust edges. Match all the seams and centers. Stitch 1
cm (⅜”) along the top edge.
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4. Cut 4 corners as close as possible to the stitch carefully as shown in picture
below. Cut the cup seam allowances within every 1-1,5 cm (½”). Do it very
carefully, you are not able to cut the stitch.
5. Turn the bodice out to the right side and understitch the lining as far as
possible to keep it from rolling toward the outside. Also understitch the
round cup seam area as far as possible. If you will do this step, ironing all
corners out will be much easier.
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6. Turn out the bodice completely to the right side. Turn out the corners
carefully, they should be as sharp as possible. Press the top so that the lining
is not visible from the outside.
7. Attach the lining to the zipper. Open the zipper. Turn inside out the zipper
area. Flip the lining over from the top. Put zipper foot or position your needle
as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Sew down the lining along the zipper
teeth. Leave approximately 1 cm (½”) before the back seam. Do the same
with the second side.
8. Turn the skirt inside out between the lining and the main fabric layers and
attach the linings waist seam allowance to the main dress waist seam
allowance. Layers will look like this:
9. Preparing and attaching cups
1. Attach straps to the cups with the angle, like we have done it on the back.
Straps should be placed 1-2 cm (½-1”) from the upper cup side. Put the lining
to the cup right sides together and pin down along the top edges. Sew
along the top edges and understitch on the lining.
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2. Fold the lining inside the main cup and pin down so that the lining isn't
visible from the right side. Make sure that the lining is not bigger than the
cup (it will be) and cut off 2-3 mm (0,1”) from the bottom of the lining (only in
the cup center area).
3. Pin the lining to the bottom of the cup. Stitch 5 cm (2”) along the bottom of
the cup to attach the lining completely. Overlock from the wrong side.
4. Iron the cup. Do not press it all over, very carefully from the sides. It is nice if
you have a round ironing block to iron and form the cup. But if not, just
press it carefully with the iron tip.
5. Close the overlock seam with an underwire channeling (it is optional, it is ok if
the overlock seam is still visible). Sew down the underwire channeling along
the bottom of the cup very precisely and overlap the bottom edge with it.
Stitch 1 mm (0,04”) along the top edge of the channeling. There is usually a
stitch on the channeling, you can sew exactly over this existing seam. ( It
won't be put an underwire here, but you are able to do it. I sew down a
channeling here for decoration purposes.)
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6. Now there is the stitch that is visible from the right side of the cup (aprox. 8
mm 0,3” from the cup bottom edge). To help yourself you can stitch it once
more with any contrasting color upper thread and bigger stitch length. Now
we have to attach the cup to the bodice so that the rounded underbust
edges of the bodice overlap this bottom cup stitch (contrasting thread) by
exactly 1 mm (0,04”). It is safer to baste it. Match and pin the cup center
seam with the seam on the bodice. Line up and pin the cup sides with
corners on the bodice. Topstitch on the right side 1 mm (0,04”) along the
edge. This seam should overlay previous channeling seam from the wrong
side.
7. Topstitch from the wrong side along the bottom edge of the underwire
channeling. If you don't use this channeling, topstitch the cup line from the
right side 5mm (0,2”) from the seam. Do tiny dense zigzag stitches on the
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ends of the channeling and just cut the ends as close as possible to zigzag
stitches.
8. Press everything well and enjoy your brand new Rose Cafe bustier dress!
I will love if you will take a photo of your result and post on Instagram with a
hashtag #rosecafebustierdress !
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