201011037

Textile Design-Basic Woven Techniques (TXD-

2201)

Submission Date: 15 th 2021

Report Writing : Study on different types of plain

and twill woven structures.

Submitted To : Submitted By :
Name : Name :

Study on different types of plain and twill woven structures:

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Abstract: Fabric outer appearance is influenced by various fabric structures. Differences of plain
and twill were analyzed in this report. Physical, mechanical and other aesthetic properties are
compared between two sample and it's found that rubbing fastness remains unchanged for plain and
twill fabric. Abrasion resistance, pilling, crease recovery and canopy factor were evaluated for twill
and plain.Though abrasion resistance and pills property aren't good for twill fabric as compared with
plain fabric but crease recovery is best of twill fabric. its versatile application for clothing, industrial,
commercial and other technical purposes.Though Bangladesh is an auspicious land of textile
production.

Introduction: Fabrics are produced in several techniques like weaving, knitting, non-woven, etc.
Fabric is named woven fabric, knit fabric, and non-woven fabric respectively on the idea of their
manufacturing technique. Day by day the demand for woven is increased for its popularity and high
essentiality of the material . Casual shirts and pants are produced from woven fabric. It also used for
household purposes and technical purposes also. About three billion meters of woven fabric is
required for export per annum but only about forty-five million meters of woven fabric is exported
by us. This scenario showed the lacking of our woven fabric industry. For that it's essential to
determine more and more woven factories to scale back the gap between supply and demand.
Woven fabric is produced by the interlacement of warp yarn that's longitudinal and weft yarn that's
transverse and it's the foremost versatile fabric for its construction. it's the foremost sophisticated &
aristocratic fabric available with different designs. Plain, twill, satin etc. are often produced by
variation of the interlacement of warp and weft yarn. These variations of the designs have changed
mechanical properties of woven fabrics. For textile fabric it's described as a results of the material’s
resistance to the activity of external forces causing the change of shape because the properties of
cloth vary consistent with their weave structure, we've taken two structures of woven fabric like 1/1
plain and 3/1 Z twill to differentiate of plain and twill structures on woven fabric properties.
Plain weave is that the basis of three fundamental sorts of textile weaves (along with weave and
twill). In taffeta weave cloth, the warp and weft threads cross at right angles. Each weft thread
crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under subsequent , and so on. subsequent weft
thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and the other way around . Twill may
be a sort of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. it's one among three fundamental
sorts of textile weaves along side taffeta weave and satin. it's made by passing the weft thread over
one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads then on, with a “step”, or offset,
between rows to make the characteristicdiagonalpattern.Among various properties, for this
experiment abrasion resistance, pilling resistance, crease recovery and canopy factor of two differing
types of cloth designs were presented .
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Plain Weave: The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over
and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some
examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy, and muslin.

The plain weave may also have variations, which include the following:

Warp rib weave- Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are
inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced constructions. The warp
cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft
crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft-way rib formed by the crowns of the
warp threads.

Weft rib weave- Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends weave
together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in weft faced plain-weave
cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover
factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common.

 
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Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or
more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weave is 2/2 matt. (Refer to Annex 2
for weave diagrams),

Properties of Plain weave: 

 Both sides are reversible until fabric is painted or printed from right side.
 Fabrics have high abrasion resistance.
 No yarn slippage.
 There is no distinct design unless yarns have contrasting colors or thickness.
 Easily produced; maximum yardage; inexpensive. Medium to dull lusture.
 Adaptable for printing and other finishing process.
 More durable. No floats. Medium drapability to very good drapability.
 In old notation method, denoted by 'P'. Examples: Batiste, Cheese cloth, Cretonne,
Percale, voile.

Usage: Plain weave is typically used for clothing and furnishing fabrics. It provides a structured look
to suits, shirts, and furniture.Business shirts, button-ups, and other less drapey garments have a plain
weave. Likewise, suits, blazers, and trench coats use this weave. These kinds of clothing do not need
a soft drape against the body. Instead, they need a heavy and structured look. Further, manufacturers
use a plain weave in making upholstery fabrics. These materials cover sofas, chairs, footstools, and
more. Moreover, plain weave fabrics make a good cushion, curtain, or rug.

Twill Weave: A weave characterized by diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. The weft or warp
yarns interlace with more than one warp yarn but never more than 4 warp yarns. On each successive
line weft moves the design one step to the right or the left forming the diagonal. Whatever the
direction of the diagonal on the face of the fabric the direction is opposite on reverse. The diagonal
can vary from a low 14 o angle called reclining twill to a 75 o angle called a step twill. The most
common is 45 o and is regular or medium Twill Weave twill,steeper the twill stronger the fabric is
likely to be. A 2 x 1 twill weave will be one where warp will go over 2 warp and under 1 weft.
Suppose you have 4/2 weave, then it means that you will have 4 +2 =6 harnesses, (i.e) the repeat will
have 6 boxes horizontaly and 6 boxes vertically.It is obvious that Brighton honeycomb design has
the highest GSM value for having highest number of alternate floats in the fabric. Twill and Diaper
design have almost the same GSM. Vertical Zigzag and Diamond have almost same GSM. In case
of Matt design, GSM is lower.
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A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal lines on the face of the
fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These
twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the
interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line
moves sinistrally (Right – Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left – Right, S twill). Common derivatives
of twill weave are as follows:
 
Zigzag weave- If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed periodically across the
width, a zigzag effect is produced.Zigzag weave is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill
weaves of equal repeat.

Diamond weave- Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves of
equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally symmetrical.
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Herringbone weave- In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically like
zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of interlacement is also reversed and then twill
line commence as usual.

Diaper weave- Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two Herringbone designs. Diaper
designs are diagonally symmetrical.

Properties of Twill weave:

 Twill weave is one of the strongest weave.
 It has fairly good drape.
 More tightly woven.
 A twill weave does not get dirt easily but once it gets dirt it becomes really difficult to
clean them.
 It has good wrinkle resistance.
 Finer yarns with high twist are used in constructionof twill weaves.
 Denim is an uneven warp faced twill weave fabrics. Wefts are in white and warps are
in blue so denim is blue on one side and white from the other side.
 Other variations of twill weave include: Pointed twill, Herring bone, Gabardine,
Corkscrew twill and so on.

Uses of Twill Weave

Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing fabric for garments, household cloth and
industrial cloth.

1. Generally, diamond, diaper and zigzag twill are used for making pillow, cover, screen, bed
sheet, towel etc.
2. Continuous twill is used for making fabric for shirting, suiting and panting (denim,
gaberdine).
3. For making various type of ornamental cloth, other derivatives of twill weave are used.
4. Hearing bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.
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Usage: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover, Same diamond, broken twill

Discussion: What we have studied about the derivatives of twill based on their different physical
properties it has been pellucid and the outcome can be concluded according to their test results. The
result was disclosed that brighton honeycomb structure showed better physical properties on an
average than other structure whereas matt structure showed lower value in case of physical
properties. All the values of physical properties for different weave designed fabrics differs because
of irregular float in the designs and free space between adjacent warp yarns and also weft yarns
while having same EPI.

Experiment: Two samples of 100% cotton plain and twill grey fabrics are collected .After
collecting, the fabrics are analyzed very carefully. The GSM of both fabrics are 160, the warp yarn
count and therefore the weft yarn count of the plain sample is 40’s and 32’s and for the twill sample
is 40’s and 30’s respectively. The structures of the samples are 1/1 plain and 3/1 Z twill. the material
cover factors of the plain fabric are 22.65 and for twill fabric is 21.26 respectively. The ends per inch
and therefore the picks per inch for 1/1 plain sample are 112 and 76 respectively and for 3/1 Z twill
sample are 100 and 56 respectively. These fabrics are collected for determining the influence of plain
and twill structure on woven fabric properties.

Methods of Testing of Plain and Twill Fabric: Determination of Abrasion Resistance: Cut the
sample according to the template (Abrasion Dia. 3.75 cm & Pilling Dia. 13.9 cm Cutter). For pilling
same fabric is used (one test sample & other the same fabric of test are required) and for abrasion
one test sample & one standard abrading fabric are required. Then for pilling, test sample is placed
face down on pilling specimen holder and other fabric is placed face upward on piling table.

Testing Procedure of Pilling Formation : For this test four specimens each 5 inch × 5 inch were
cut from the fabric. A seam allowance of 12 mm was marked on the back of each square. In two of
the samples the seam was marked parallel to the warp direction and in the other two parallel to the
weft direction. The samples were then folded face to face and a seam was sewn on the marked line.
This gave two specimens with the seam parallel to the warp and two with the seam parallel to the
weft. Each specimen was turned inside out and 6 mm cut off each end of it thus removing any
sewing distortion. The fabric tubes made were then mounted on rubber tubes so that the length of
tube showing at each end was the same. Each of the loose ends was taped with poly (vinyl chloride)
(PVC) tape so that 6 mm of the rubber tube was left exposed. All four specimens were then placed in
one pilling box. The samples were then tumbled together in a cork-lined box. The usual number of
revolutions used in the test was 18,000 which take 5 hrs.

Testing Procedure of Crease Recovery: A specimen was cut from the fabrics with a template 2
inch long by 1 inch wide. It was carefully creased by folding in half placing it between two glass
plates and adding a 2 kg weight. After 1 min the weight was removed and the specimen transferred
to the fabrics clamp on the instrument and allowed to recover from crease. As it recovers, the dial of
the instrument was rotated to keep the free edge of the specimen in line with the knife edge. At the
end of the time period allowed for recovery, usually 1 min the recovery angle in degrees was read on
the engraved scale. Warp and weft way recovery were reported separately to the nearest degree from
the mean values of ten tests in each direction .

Testing Procedure of Cover Factor: Cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the
area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a
warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the
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number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count. It is calculated by the
following formula Kc=K1+K2−K1∗K2/28 where, Kc = Cloth cover factor

K1 = Warp cover factor = EPI/Warp count

K2 = Weft cover factor = PPI/Weft count

Testing Procedure of Color Fastness to Rubbing :Rubbing fastness is the resistance to fading of
dyed textiles when rubbed against a rough surface. This test determines the fastness of dyestuff to
either wet or dry rubbing. For rubbing fastness testing test specimen 15 cm × 5 cm was placed on the
base of the crock meter. Square of white test cloth (5 cm × 5 cm) of cotton desized, bleached but
without finish was attached to the finger of the crock meter. This finger was used in rubbing action
on the sample specimen i.e. rubbing 10 cm long to and fro 10 times at 10 seconds. 20 rubs in 10 s
and finger pressure on the specimen was 9 N. For testing dry and wet rubbing separate specimen was
used. Three specimens for dry and wet rubbing respectively in warp way direction and another three
specimens for both rubbing respectively in weft direction were used for two different constructed
samples. Change in color in the specimen and staining in the white cloth was determined by grey
scale.

Results and Discussion: Determination of Abrasion Resistance: The wear index indicates the
abrasion resistance of both of the fabrics. The more the wear index indicates lower abrasion
resistance properties. From the tables we can see that the average wear index of plain fabric is less
than the twill fabric.Due to less interlacement or more porous, twill weave is not so resistant to
abrasion compares to plain.

Determination of Cover Factor: The comparative result of cloth cover is given. The more the cloth
cover the more compact the fabric will be. Here the cloth cover of plain fabric (22.65) is greater than
the cloth cover of twill fabric (21.26). So the plain fabric is more compact.

Fabric evaluation:After knitting, the various physical properties ofknitted fabric samples were
testedin accordance with the relevant standards. Fabricsused for this study were selected basedon
common commercial use in the textile industry,and they are common in clothingfabrics and are
commercially available. For example,single jersey, single pique and crossmiss structures are used for
making outerwear, activewear, under wear and so on.Pre-conditioning of all fabrics was carried out
ina conditioning chamber at 65% relativehumidity and 20°C for 24 h before each testing. Inall tests,
measurements of the fabricwere carried out on seven samples for each structureand the average value
was reported.

Stitch length:It is the length of yarn in millimeters (mm) for oneloop. The loop value wasmeasured
by taking 70 wales. The wales are markedon the fabric surface, and then theyarn was unraveled,
straightened and measured in mm.By substituting the measuredvalues in the formula, the loop length
was measured

Air permeability Air permeability is defined as the volume of air (inliters) that is passed in 1 
minthrough some specific area of fabric at a pressuredifference of 10 mm head of water. Air
permeability is an important factor in textile performancebecause it indicates the breathability of
textile fabrics. Air permeabilitywas measured according to the ES ISO9237 using Tester FX3300.

Drape: The most widely accepted method of drape test, accordingto ISO 9073- 9 uses isthe drape
meter. Before measuring to relieve localizedstresses caused by handling during preparation, the
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samples were conditioned. There arethree diameters of spacemen (24 cmfor limp fabric, 30 cm for
medium fabric and 36 cmfor stiff fabric) that can be used. For this work, a 30 cm diameter specimen
used.To measure the areas involved, the whole paper ringis weighed and then theshadow part of the
ring is cut away and weighed. Thestiffer a fabric is, the larger is thearea of its shadow compared with
the unsupported areaof the fabric.

Fabric weight (GSM): This test was carried out according to ISO3801. Usinga Metler make
digitalmeasuring balance, it was measured by using a cuttingdevice (round, area 100 cm2).

Fabric thickness measurement : A Digital thickness gauge (MESDAN, model: D-2000)was used to
measure thethickness of the fabric samples in accordance to ASTMD1777-96. 100 KPa was used for
the testing.

Dimensional properties: There are different factors that affect the dimensionalproperty of knitted
fabrics,such as fiber type, relaxation/finishing route, yarnlinear density, fabric structure and
twistlevel. However, for this study only fabric structureswere considered. The dimensionalstability
(shrinkage) test was measured accordingto ISO 6330. In the test method, awashing machine to wet
out (swell) the fiber/fabricunder tensionless conditions wasused. For the three structures, seven
samples eachwere prepared with a dimension of 65 mm × 65 mm and was washed for one hour at
60º Cusing standard detergent (soap 5 g/l). Finally, the samples were dried using mini drying
machine and shrinkage percentage calculated .

Conclusion:

After doing this report it can be found that twill fabric has more wear index than plain fabric. Plain
fabric has lower tendency to form pills in comparison with twill fabric.But textile fabric weave
structure has an important role on fabric quality. Yielding fabric with different weave structure
whether it is plain or twill derivatives the physical properties varies according to their weave
structure. Here, we had examined with same specification, but the outcome was different due to
nuance of their fabric structure. According to test it is clear that weave structures influence the fabric
quality.