Wine Spectator - December 31, 2020

TOP 100
VAL
UES
WineSpectator.com
THE
TOP 100
THE MOST EXCITING WINES OF 2020
WINE
REPORTS
• U.S. SPARKLERS
• ARGENTINA
• BEAUJOLAIS
CONTENTS Dec. 31, 2020 - Jan. 15, 2021
Vol. 45, No. 13
It all begins with the Wine of the Year, the Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay
Gran Reserva Especial 2010, a classic resulting from the vision, passion and dedication
of proprietor Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga and his team.—COVER STORY
No. 6 Kistler No. 70 Suavia
No. 19 Résonance No. 86 Château Thivin
COVER STORY Features

35 The Top 100 Since its debut in 1988, the mission of the TA S T I N G R E P O R T
Top 100 has been to highlight the most exciting wines our 89 Malbec Powers Back After several challenging harvests,
editors tasted that year, and also to provide a snapshot of the Argentinian producers bring in a small but impressive crop in
overall year in wine. This year’s list highlights leading grapes 2017, reminding red wine lovers of the potential and appeal of
from dynamic appellations, joined with familiar wines from the country’s signature grape • Kim Marcus
reliable producers that comforted and revived wine lovers in
WINE
COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JIMMY HAYES; ANDRÉA JOHNSON; DOMINIK FUSINA
times of uncertainty • Bruce Sanderson
77 Values Cornucopia For cool-weather evenings, whether
36 Wine of the Year spent cozied on the couch or gathered around the patio fire pit,
we recommend well-priced wines to help you enjoy the
39 Top 100 at a Glance
moment: 100 bottles at 88 points or higher and priced at $25
41 Profiles of Wines Nos. 2 to 100 or less • Keith Newton
47 Top 100 by Region and Variety
56 10 Years of Top 10s
60 Wines of the Year 1988 to 2019
64 Values in the Top 100
123 Tasting Notes for the Top 100 Wines

77100 great values 89Argentina’s best Malbecs
23Bubbly bonanza 128High-seas terroir
Grapevine Departments
13 Manga Magnitude Groundbreaking graphic novel 9 This Issue Marvin R. Shanken
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: GONZALEZ BYASS, CHRISTINE WEHRMEIER/GETTY IMAGES, KLAUS VEDFELT/GETTY IMAGES
featuring fine wine marks 44 volumes and finds a new fandom

33 Thomas Matthews Touch of Grey
in America • Ben O’Donnell
128 Unfiltered All aboard the 44,000-mile Magellan-Elcano
16 News Court of Master Sommeliers–America faces
historic Sherry-barrel tour • Collin Dreizen
harassment claims • Julie Harans and Dana Nigro
20 Cheese Truffled delights • David Gibbons
23 U.S. Sparklers This year’s best American bubblies

• Tim Fish
26 Beaujolais The Gamay grape is making refined reds in
its home region • Gillian Sciaretta
30 Savvy Shopper Golden State bounty, and a continental
tour through Italy, France and Spain • Bruce Sanderson
Cover photograph by Yuri Kriventsoff/Getty Images

The Buying Guide
97 Buying Guide Contents
99 Spectator Selections
100 About the Buying Guide
102 New Wines From Around the World

123 Top 100 Tasting Notes
A TO P - S CO R I N G
WINE THIS ISSUE
Rocca di Montegrossi
Vin Santo del Chianti
Classico 2009
97 POINTS / $79 (375ML)
103Reviews of wines from Austria
Visit WineSpectator.com/123120 to find links to all of

the following resources.
FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINE

SPECTATOR.COM READERS
TOP 100 COUNTDOWN Join Wine Spectator’s senior
editors as they discuss this year’s Top 10 in our annual
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ENTER OUR TOP 100 SWEEPSTAKES! Don’t miss
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T H I S I S S UE
Some Thoughts About Tom
I
n the fall of 1987, I was visiting Paris and took
a meeting with a young American freelance
writer then living in Bordeaux, because I was
looking to add a full-time person to Wine Spec-
tator’s London office.
I didn’t know him. But after we talked for about an
hour, I thought he would be a good fit with our team.
I made him an offer, and in January of 1988, Thomas
Matthews became an associate editor of Wine Spectator.
Fast-forward to 1999. I had moved most of the Wine
Spectator staff to our headquarters in New York. In the
heat of the dot-com boom, my managing editor at the
time decided to work for an Internet company. I needed
to find a replacement to run the publication.
I was faced with a pivotal decision. I had some strong
NEW YORK CITY, 2013

candidates, but decided to broaden my search. Tom was
not initially on my radar for the job, but he wrote me a
letter asking me to consider him.
I took a few months to make my selection. Looking
back, appointing Tom was one of the best decisions I ever made. Tom has done all he can to prepare Jeff for his new assign-
Over the past 33 years I have watched Tom grow and develop. ment, and is now free to travel and sleep late. But he is not com-
As the executive editor of my largest and most complex publica- pletely off the hook. He has agreed to continue to lead our major
tion, he has had to deal with me almost daily. Some would say charitable wine event—the New York Wine Experience—and
that’s not a lucky thing for him! other special projects, as well as be my advisor on matters of the
From my perspective, I was very lucky. Tom is quiet and future. He will still be around.
thoughtful. His calm demeanor settled my otherwise “Type-A” I declare to all that I will miss Tom. Lucky for me, I have
personality. He always had the big picture in mind. As a team, nothing but great memories.
we were complete in every way. Over time, I learned to trust him
even when I didn’t agree with him. He also had the responsibil-
ity to work with our 40-member editorial team and freelancers
around the world. I don’t know how he did it. He built lasting
relationships with each one of them.
Two years ago, we had dinner together in West Palm Beach.
I was caught completely off-guard when he brought up the topic
of his retirement. I heard the emotion in his voice. In his mind, Marvin R. Shanken
it was time to pass the baton. Editor and Publisher
We were so close he knew this would upset me. I have trouble
letting go of people. And Tom has a special place in my heart.
Before he could finish his sentence, I said, “no problem.” He
knew I was lying. But Tom deserves to enjoy the next phase of
his life as he wishes. I didn’t want him to feel any guilt. Together
we worked out a plan and a timetable.
So here we are: Tom’s last issue as executive editor. I have
announced his replacement: Jeffery Lindenmuth, who did a
DAVID YELLEN
brilliant job as executive editor at sister publication Whisky

Advocate. Jeff takes over January 1.
DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 9

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GRAPEVINE N EWS F OOD & T R AVE L P E OP LE CO LL E CTIN G
Vision in a Bottle
B
rother-sister writing team Shin and Yuko Kibayashi didn’t
expect a graphic novel about wine to grab much of an au-
dience. “At first, neither of us thought that this idea was
going to work,” said Yuko, who sometimes uses the pen
name Tadashi Agi together with Shin. “But wine was the
ultimate favorite hobby that we both shared. So if a manga series
that sprang out of our own hobby continued even for a year, it
would’ve been fantastic. ”
That was in 2004. The Drops of God would run for 44 volumes over
the following 10 years as more and more readers became enthralled by
the story of Shizuku Kanzaki, a young beer salesman whose father, a
world-famous wine critic, has Graphic novel authors Shin and Yuko Kibayashi
died and left his priceless wine
collection to either Shizuku or WS: Speak about the challenges of making this story serious about wine
a rival, adopted son—which- but also accessible to readers who don’t know about that world?
ever can identify 12 mystery YK: We started with a very humble attitude. But then realized that [wine] is
bottles of wine about which the connected to a huge network of people.
elder Kanzaki has left poetic but SK: The main characters of this series are not the two brothers, but actually
elusive descriptions. The bot- the wines. As we continued to explore, the fans started to catch on.
tles, called “Apostles,” are all WS: Throughout the series, there are wonderful evocations of wine is linked
real wines, including bench- to times, places, emotions and senses. How did you go about associating
marks from esteemed producers wines with emotional connections?
like Georges Roumier, Sine Qua YK: There’s this one wine that we both had, [that] got us hooked into the uni-
Non and Château d’Yquem. verse of wine. It was 1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échézeaux. When we
Recently, the authors had a had it, it made us think about the culture, the people, and we started to see
conversation with Wine Specta- these complex pictures and patterns, like a rug.
tor’s Ben O’Donnell about how SK: It felt like we were in a field of flowers.
they collaborate both in writing YK: Like we were not really here, and we were seeing these illusions. But it’s
and tasting, and the bottle that all really about our own life experiences that have been triggered by the
TADASHI AGI AND SHU OKIMOTO, “THE DROPS OF GOD” (2020), COMIXOLOGY AND KODANSHA COMICS
started it all. wine, and appear as visions or emotions. When we had this wine, a light
shined upon the memories that had accumulated over all these years, and
Wine Spectator: Before you began writing The Drops of God, you were played these visions and made us feel these emotions.
known for manga in different genres. What were your wine explorations SK: That’s been happening to us since then.
leading up to your work on this series? YK: It happens all the time. But it’s really a reflection of ourselves. Or the book
Shin Kibayashi: When we’re working together, at the end of the day, we’d that I’ve read in the past, the scenery that you’ve seen and a friend that you
say to each other, “Let’s have a drink.” We want some “fuel” for our work. [We] miss. The wine makes you reflect upon all these experiences in your life.
have always loved wine. When we were drinking wine together, we were play- WS: What do you hope that the series can do to make wine more acces-
ing a game like the one you see in the manga. We asked each other, “What is sible to young people or to people who might be intimidated by wine?
the image of this wine?” We realized that we share similar imagery without YK: People often ask, “Is there any good wine under $10?” There are. That’s
much diversion of vision from each other. So we thought, maybe we can share OK as a daily wine. But you can also make some friends through wine, have
the vision with other people. a party and share a bottle with six people. Pick one bottle that’s $50, some-
Yuko Kibayashi: It was as if the imagery already existed in the bottle. And thing that you’ve never had before. I [hope] everyone continues to cultivate
as we drink it, we’re doing a reading. their wine experiences, especially if you’re just getting into the world of wine.
SK: One day, I said, “Let’s make this into a manga.” As we decided to make SK: Definitely make wine friends. Wine is not meant to be enjoyed by
it into a manga, it was as if being visited by Bacchus, the god of wine, telling yourself.
us the title and the rough concept within a mere half an hour or so. YK: It’s a drink to talk about, and it’s a drink that makes you talk.

N E W S
Women Detail Sexual Abuse by Master Sommeliers
T
he chairman of the Court of Master Sommeliers–Americas
(CMS-A) stepped down in November and the group an-
nounced plans for an overhaul, including all new officers, fol-
lowing the suspension of 10 male Master Sommeliers and the
resignation of another. All stand accused of sexually harassing women
who were pursuing certification with the group. An independent
investigator has been appointed to follow up on all allegations.
“We agree that a reformed CMS-A is the only path forward to en-
suring the organization’s existence and integrity, and to better protect
the people who look to be educated,” wrote board vice chair Virginia
Philip in a letter to all members. Philip will oversee the transition,
temporarily taking over from chairman Devon Broglie, who resigned
after numerous members called for his departure and shortly before al-
legations of his own inappropriate behavior came to public light.
The actions were sparked by a New York Times article detailing
complaints about six of the men, from 21 women who alleged that Liz Mitchell, Jane Lopes, Victoria James and Courtney Schiessl (from left) have spoken
they had been groped, sent explicit texts, out on how Master Sommeliers abused their trust and sexually harassed them.
pressured for sex in exchange for profes- “When someone has proven that they make bad decisions multiple
sional favors, or raped. The article spawned times, they need to step down from leadership,” said Liz Huettinger,
additional complaints to an ethics report- former sommelier and wine director at Wine Spectator Grand Award–
ing hotline about five other men. winning restaurants Spago and Addison, and now national sales man-
The court’s initial response, which ager for Mayacamas Vineyards. Huettinger co-authored a petition call-
amounted to vague statements of opposi- ing for a boycott of the Court’s future courses and exams until the entire
tion to harassment, left many members of board stepped down.
the sommelier community, both women and Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey also expressed frustration over the
men, unsatisfied that the organization was board’s repeated mishandlings. He and other Master Sommeliers pre-
sufficiently addressing what many call a problematic culture. “To me, it sented concerns about a lack of transparency following a 2018 cheating
felt more like damage control than a heartfelt apology,” said Jeremy scandal, with no tangible outcome. Stuckey says he’s been pushing for
Shanker, a Master Sommelier at Michael Mina in San Francisco. a Human Resources department over the past three years, too.
The group’s Nov. 1 followup did little to quell the rising anger, despite Under the reform plan the board announced, the upcoming election
a formal apology to the 13 women identified in the Times article and the of board members will be postponed and all members will be allowed
suspension of several Master Sommeliers. “I was really surprised that [the to vote to replace the entire 15-member board. The new board will elect
Court and GuildSomm] weren’t more prepared and didn’t have a more a new chair and vice chair, hire a full-time professional CEO and revise
TOP TO BOTTOM: KHOLOOD EID/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX; RUSSELL YIP/SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE/POLARIS; COURTESY OF MCCOLLUM HERITAGE 91
thorough action plan, because they were given plenty of time to deal the bylaws and the ethics policy. The announcement of these proposed
with the issue before it went public,” said Rachel Van Til, a Houston- changes also stated that the board has hired Margaret Bell, an attorney
based sommelier who shared allegations in the Times article. specializing in employment law and an independent workplace inves-
All of the women who currently hold the title of Master Sommelier in tigator, to look into all the allegations.
North America—27 of the 158 Master Sommeliers—wrote a joint letter Will the changes be enough to rehabilitate an organization that was
demanding changes. “There is no place for the harm that has been done founded to set high standards and earn respect for the profession? “The
to these women and so, so many others who were hurt, bullied, abused, world evolved, and the Court of Master Sommeliers did not evolve with
excluded or made to feel anything other than welcome,” wrote Jill Zi- it, and I think this is that reckoning,” said Huettinger.
morski, a Chicago-area Master Sommelier, on social media. —Julie Harans, Dana Nigro
NBA’s CJ McCollum Builds on His Passion for Pinot

I n addition to being one of the NBA’s top shooting guards,
Portland Trail Blazer CJ McCollum has been getting into the
wine game on his home court in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
After being drafted by the Blazers, McCollum took advan-
tage of the proximity to Willamette Valley. He’s fostered
close relationships with local wineries, including Adelsheim,
In September, he released his first wine, McCollum Heritage 91 which he chose as his partner for his wine label, McCollum
Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 2018. He chatted about the Heritage 91. Once he started developing the wine, he found
project with senior editor MaryAnn Worobiec in a recent epi- that making wine and winning on the court weren’t so differ-
sode of “Straight Talk with Wine Spectator” on Instagram Live. ent. “There’s a lot of similarities between basketball and wine
McCollum gives his wife, Elise, credit for introducing him from a teamwork, execution and preparation standpoint. Try-
to wine when they were in college. One of his first tastes was ing to figure out the label, the design, the price point, when
a cheap Merlot that didn’t make a great first impression, but you release it, how you release it—so there’s a lot of things
she continued to suggest new grapes, and he eventually de- that go into that,” he said.
veloped a passion for Pinot Noir. —Shawn Zylberberg
CJ McCollum
16 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

C H E E S E
Stop and Taste the Truffles

BY DAVID GIBBONS
A
t the end of a distressing year, per-
haps now’s an ideal time for in-
dulging in a little truffle-cheese
decadence. In the best of this spe-
cial category, the heady earthy, garlicky,
musky taste of the truffles plays a harmoni-
ous duet with the creamy, rich, sweet and
tangy flavors of their foundation cheeses,
wonderfully enhancing both partners.
Truffles are culinary gold: Harvests fluc-
tuate from year to year, and there have
been instances of fakes. Fresh black ones
retail for $30 to $90 per ounce; white truf-
fles for around $200 an ounce. The good
news is a little bit goes a long way. A typi-
cal recipe, per 100 pounds of cheese, calls
for between 5 ounces and 14 ounces of
truffle slivers augmented by roughly half a Cypress Grove Truffle Tremor
cup of white truffle–infused oil.
After sourcing the truffles, the cheesemaker’s next challenge is to en- of buttermilk and yogurt.
sure balance between the cheese’s lactic and the truffle’s fungal flavors Outstanding among truffled Goudas are the raw-milk Dutch Melkbus,
so that both stand out, yet neither overwhelms the other. Truffles go which is young, mild and inviting, with some coffee/cocoa notes; and
well with various styles of cheeses, from creamy soft-ripened French the Marieke Gouda, from Wisconsin, which is sold at two to three
types to chèvres, cheddars, Goudas and pecorinos. Cow’s milk gets along months, or nine to 12 months. The younger Marieke’s tart-sweet lactic
swimmingly with truffles but, if anything, goat’s and sheep’s milks find flavors jibe seamlessly with the garlicky aspect of the truffles; the older
even happier marriages. one is mellower, with some emerging caramel and mown-hay notes and
A good starting point in the cow’s-milk realm is the Triple Crème an earthier truffle impression.
Brie with Truffles from California’s Marin French Cheese Co., which A goat’s milk entry point is a traditional chèvre log from Laura Che-
provides no uncertain reminder that mushrooms and cream go together nel in Sonoma, Calif. Truffle Tremor, from Cypress Grove, in Arcata,
like Bogie and Bacall. (Cream of mushroom soup, anyone?) Ditto the Calif., demonstrates how well a fine soft-ripened chèvre can love its
mild, buttery Fromager d’Affinois from Fromagerie Guilloteau in the truffles, proffering just enough complementary salt, funk, tang and
Loire, with its hint of tang and judicious dose of truffle. herbal/floral notes.
Truffle cheddars are another relatively mild gateway: Recommended A perennial favorite in sheep’s milk—having amassed something of
are the Ballard Family Dairy, from Idaho; Plymouth Artisan and Graf- a cult following and ushering us into more assertive territory—is the
ton Village, both Vermonters. The Ballard is rich, tangy-sweet and kid- Moliterno al Tartufo. This rustic Sardinian pecorino is aged two months
friendly; the Plymouth a bit sharper and tangier but still appealingly then injected with black truffle paste, which forms dark veins of mar-
smooth and mild; and the Grafton is masterfully balanced, with mod- bling. Relentlessly oozing butterfat as it hardens with age, it adds some
erate tang, restrained butterfat and truffle hovering modestly in the Provolone-like bite and cranks up the salty and funky bittersweet notes.
background. For those who like ’em loud, it’s a real rocker.
Sergio Moro, a talented innovator in Italy’s Veneto region, provides Another rough-and-ready classic, Cacio di Bosco al Tartufo, from the
two semi-soft toma-style rejoinders: Tuscan co-op Il Forteto, also brings
Oro Italiano and Sottocenere al RECOMMENDED TRUFFLED CHEESES some of that in-your-face salty
Tartufo. Both are highly approach- BALLARD TRUFFLE & SALT CHEDDAR, $12 for 8 ounces, ballardcheese.com sheepiness and Provolone bite be-
able, with mellow creamy and pleas- BOSCHETTO AL TARTUFO BIANCHETTO, $17 for 7 ounces, igourmet.com fore mellowing to a long, sweetish
antly tangy flavors. The Oro also CACIO DI BOSCO AL TARTUFO, $18 for 8 ounces, dibruno.com finish. Finally, there are two ver-
features saffron flavoring, the Sot- FROMAGER D’AFFINOIS, $10 for 7.5 ounces, igourmet.com sions of Boschetto al Tartufo, also
GRAFTON VILLAGE TRUFFLE CHEDDAR, $8 for 8 ounces, dakinfarm.com
tocenere a hint of minerality from from Il Forteto: The younger Bi-
MARIEKE GOUDA TRUFFLE, $15 per pound, mariekegouda.com
its ash coating. MARIN FRENCH CHEESE CO. TRIPLE CRÈME TRUFFLE BRIE, $12 for 8 anchetto opens with sweetness fol-
To mark its 80th anniversary in ounces, northbaycreameries.com lowed by a mouthwatering burst of
business, DiBruno Bros. commis- MOLITERNO AL TARTUFO, $18 for 8 ounces, dibruno.com salt and tang fading to a truffly af-
sioned Ottanta al Tartufo, a year- ORO ITALIANO, $10 for 7.5 ounces, igourmet.com tertaste; the older, more savory Sta-
RAW MILK GOUDA WITH TRUFFLES (from Melkbus), $19 for 7.5 ounces,
end limited edition. Made by Ver- gionato highlights buttery sheep’s-
igourmet.com
mont’s Landaff Creamery, it’s based STAGIONATO, $15 for 7.5 ounces, igourmet.com milk umami.
on their Caerphilly-like namesake TRUFFLE TREMOR, $29 per pound, cypressgrovecheese.com David Gibbons is co-author of
cheese and offers refreshing notes Mastering Cheese.

W I N E F O C U S
Pop Culture
U.S. sparkling wine houses offer delicious bubblies for the holidays
BY TIM FISH
C
elebration has been a tough sell
in 2020, but America’s spar-
kling wine producers are think-
ing positive in the final months
of the year, always the peak season for
bubbly. “We’re learning to pivot,” says
Joy Sterling, CEO of Iron Horse Vine-
yards in Sonoma County. “You just
have to be nimble. The independent
retailers and high-end groceries have
been a saving grace.”
In this era of social distancing and
sheltering in place, wine sales have
been in flux. The good news is that re-
tail sales for domestic sparkling wine
are up 8.9% for the year ending Sept.
5, according to market research firm
Nielsen. On-premise sales tell a differ-
ent story. This is a crucial market for Iron Horse CEO Joy Sterling
domestic producers, who enjoy robust
sales via by-the-glass programs at restaurants and wine bars. $16) continues to impress with excellent quality at a bargain price.
“The on-premise business vanished pretty much overnight,” says Finally, from the well-known Gruet in New Mexico there’s the Blanc
Xavier Barlier, senior vice president of marketing and communication de Blancs American NV (88, $19), a brisk and refreshing bubbly.
for Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, which includes Roederer Es- As for this year’s top sparkling wines, Roederer Estate continues its
tate in Anderson Valley. “We all remember the hangover for sparkling winning streak. The Mendocino-based winery’s Brut Anderson Valley
wine after the millennium. We all remember what happened in 2008, L’Ermitage 2012 was the No. 5 wine of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 of
but this is unprecedented.” 2019. This year the Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
The fact that 2019 was a banner year for sales only adds salt to the L’Ermitage 2012 (95, $75) is effusive with blood orange and lemon peel
wound. Champagne has also suffered, with sales down 35% for the year flavors that show hints of marzipan.
ending in July, according to the Union des Maisons de Champagne. The Domaine Carneros Blanc de Blancs Carneros Le Rêve is consis-
What’s a sparkling wine lover to do? Let the bubbly flow this holiday tently among California’s top sparkling wines and the 2013 (94, $120)
season, of course. To that end, I have reviewed nearly 100 sparkling continues the tradition established by founding winemaker Eileen
wines in blind tastings at our Napa office since my previous report Crane, who retired this year. This Chardonnay-based tête de cuvée is
(“United States of Bubbly,” Dec. 31, 2019). The wines hail from Cali- luxurious yet structured, with aromas of roasted hazelnut, fresh ginger
fornia, Oregon, Washington and New Mexico, with more than half of and cinnamon roll.
them earning outstanding scores of 90 points or higher on Wine Specta- Two other California producers frequent the list of top wines. The
tor’s 100-point scale. Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley 2012 (94, $70) is a 50-50 blend of
With retail prices that range from $14 to $160, domestic sparkling Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that’s 40% barrel-aged in older French oak.
wines offer both quality and value. One of the year’s best values is a Impeccably focused and structured, this wine offers distinctive lemon
California wine with a French pedigree—the historic Champagne house verbena and strawberry accents that show a whiff of rubber. Hugh Da-
Louis Pommery, which launched a domestic program a few vintages vies and his crew at Schramsberg also remain at the top of their game
back. Its Brut California NV (90 points, $21), made with 95% Char- with the refined Schramsberg Rosé North Coast J. Schram 2011 (94,
donnay, is a steely and vibrant example, offering fresh lime, kiwifruit $160), which offers extravagant aromas of strawberry, Asian pear and
and blanched almond flavors. Also worth seeking out is the Paula Ko- cinnamon brioche.
rnell Brut California NV (90, $22), a fitting tribute to Paula’s father, A new player with an impressive release is Oregon’s Gran Moraine,
Hanns Kornell, who was a pioneer of California sparkling wine. a project from Jackson Family Wines. The Brut Rosé Yamhill-Carlton
This year’s best buys also include familiar labels such as Domaine NV (94, $50) is that rare domestic rosé that captures the vibrant acid-
Chandon, whose easygoing Brut California NV (89, $19) is a delight ity of Champagne, with delicate strawberry and raspberry flavors laced
to sip, and Korbel, whose Brut California Organic Grapes 2017 (89, with steely minerality. Among quality leaders in Oregon, Gran Moraine
joins stalwart Argyle, whose Brut Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard 2016
FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST (93, $50) and Brut Willamette Valley Extended Tirage Master Series
Get scores and prices for nearly 100 wines reviewed
for this report WineSpectator.com/SparklingAlpha123120
2009 (93, $80) are both rich, crisp and luscious.
Iron Horse also offers excellent wines in what has been a particularly

W I N E F O C U S
eventful year at the pioneering Russian River

Valley winery. Barry Sterling, who founded the
winery with his wife, Audrey, in 1976, passed
away in July, and longtime winemaker David
Munksgard semi-retired, replaced by Sofian
Himeur, the grandson of Gruet winery founder
Gilbert Gruet.
The Sterling family has also replanted their
160 estate acres in the past decade, and the
results are beginning to come to fruition. The
wines are even drier, yet richer and more luxu-
rious. According to Joy Sterling, the new plant-
ings and canopy management allows for greater
sunlight and airflow, while the cool evening
weather and morning fog moderate tempera-
tures. In addition, the dosage added to the wine
toward the end of the aging process is now con-
siderably drier.
Iron Horse’s cornerstone sparkler, the Brut Argyle Winery’s Willamette Valley vineyards
Green Valley of Russian River Valley Classic
Vintage, is better than ever. The 2016 (93, $48) is plush and creamy, I continue to admire the positive attitude Sterling maintains through
with a beam a fresh acidity, while the winery’s Wedding Cuvée Green difficult times. “There’s comfort food and then there’s comfort wine,
Valley of Russian River Valley 2016 (93, $48) is a lovely combination and I think sparkling wines falls into that category,” she says. “Sparkling
of refinement and festive exuberance. wine is about celebration, but it’s also the drink of optimism.”
TIM FISH’S RECOMMENDED U.S. SPARKLING WINES

Nearly 100 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/SparklingAlpha123120.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.
WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE
ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Rosé Anderson Valley 95 $75 SOTER Brut Rosé Yamhill-Carlton Mineral Springs 2016 93 $65
L’Ermitage 2012 Elegance in a glass, with refined strawberry, blood orange and rose
This rosé has a great nose, bursting with blood orange, candied ginger petal accents that build richness on the long finish.
and lemon peel aromas, leading to steely and mature flavors.
DECOY Brut California Cuvée NV 90 $25
DOMAINE CARNEROS Blanc de Blancs Carneros Le Rêve 2013 94 $120 Snappy and fresh, with layered and steely flavors of lemon and orange
Luxurious yet structured, with hazelnut, ginger and cinnamon roll zest, accented by floral vanilla notes.
aromas opening to flavors of baked apple, lemon tart and mineral.
LOUIS POMMERY Brut California NV 90 $21
GRAN MORAINE Brut Rosé Yamhill-Carlton NV 94 $50 Steely and vibrant, this bubbly combines the best of Old and New
The rare domestic rosé that shows the vibrant acidity of Champagne, World styles, with fresh lime, kiwifruit and blanched almond flavors.
with strawberry and raspberry flavors laced with steely minerality.
PAULA KORNELL Brut California NV 90 $22
MUMM NAPA DVX Napa Valley 2012 94 $70 Creamy and vibrant, with apple and snappy strawberry flavors that
Impeccably focused and structured, with accents of lemon verbena offer a dash of brioche on the finish.
and strawberry that take on petrol, ginger and mineral elements.
DOMAINE CHANDON Brut California NV 89 $19
SCHRAMSBERG Rosé North Coast J. Schram 2011 94 $160 This easygoing sparkler is a delight to sip, with appealing notes of
Extravagant aromas of strawberry, Asian pear, cinnamon brioche and honeysuckle, apple and roasted nuts, ending with a brisk finish.
caramelized hazelnut open to refined and elegantly layered flavors.
MUMM NAPA Brut Napa County Prestige NV 89 $24
ARGYLE Brut Willamette Valley Extended Tirage 93 $80 Soft and delicately zesty, with fresh strawberry and apple flavors
Master Series 2009 that finish on a crisp and spicy accent.
Rich, with lush yeast and almond accents highlighting baked pear,
spice and ginger flavors that finish with spiced hazelnut tones. KORBEL Brut California NV 88 $14
This snappy sparkler is easy to sip, offering lively flavors of citrus,
GLORIA FERRER Brut Carneros Royal Cuvée 93 $40 honey blossom and spice.
Late Disgorged 2013
A rich and sumptuous style, with vibrant Asian pear, fresh yeast roll SCHARFFENBERGER Brut Rosé Mendocino County 88 $26
and spiced nut flavors, taking on a steely structure on the long finish. Excellence NV
A festive quaff, with zesty strawberry and spicy graham cracker
IRON HORSE Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley 93 $48 flavors that finish on a succulent note.
Classic Vintage 2016
ANDREA JOHNSON
Plush and creamy, with fresh acidity that accentuates the baked apple,
strawberry and toasty brioche flavors, expanding on the long finish.

W I N E F O C U S
Gamay Time
The indigenous grape of Beaujolais makes charming, expressive reds
BY GILLIAN SCIARETTA
G
amay is finally getting respect. Beau-
jolais’ signature grape variety, once
dismissed as making light, simple,
fruity reds, is now delivering wines of
character and refinement.
“Recent vintages have confirmed the high
potential of Beaujolais wines,” asserts Mat-
thieu Mangenot, assistant head winemaker
for Albert Bichot, a Burgundy-based producer
that makes several wines in Beaujolais.
“There’s a revival of a sense of pride, where
Gamay is competing with some Pinot Noirs
from Côte d’Or on restaurant wine lists.”
Located just south of Burgundy’s Mâcon-
nais, Beaujolais boasts staggering geological
diversity in its soils, especially in the north- Château de la Chaize in the Beaujolais cru of Brouilly
ern part of the region, home to the 10 crus
that yield the most prestigious cuvées. This area has become a play- There are lots of similarities with Pinot Noir, but above all, fantastic
ground for serious winemakers who want to make terroir-driven Gamays. wines for both early drinking and long-term aging, depending on wine-
With vineyard land that is relatively affordable, Beaujolais is witnessing making itinerary, and always with excellent price-to-quality ratio.”
an impressive rise in young winemaking talent as well as an influx of On the winemaking side, Mangenot utilizes Burgundian practices such
outside investors. For both groups, the region’s fresh, minerally reds as destemming in addition to the classic Beaujolais technique of carbonic
speak to the current movement toward more elegant styles. maceration, in which whole grapes are fermented in a carbon dioxide–
Many well-crafted versions can now be found in the U.S. market. rich environment prior to crushing, resulting in wines with light tannins
Since my previous report (“The Distinctive Crus of Beaujolais,” Nov. and fruity profiles. “We are convinced that Gamay can combine delicacy
30, 2019), I have reviewed nearly 125 Beaujolais reds in blind tastings and refinement with a more extracted and serious style,” he says.
at our New York office, nearly 30% of them earning outstanding scores What also makes the wines special, adds Mangenot, is Gamay’s ability
of 90 points or higher. Overall, these charming wines offer high quality to express the region’s terroir. “Beaujolais has absolutely stunning terroirs,
and great value, with a median score and price of 88 points and $22. especially when it comes from the crus. Well-trained and managed on
The wines under review are mostly from the 2017 and 2018 vintages. the yield side, Gamay produces wines with a refined texture and beauti-
In 2017, widespread hailstorms led to significant crop loss, but the sum- ful density that are a real treat.”
mer was mostly sunny and warm, with the resulting wines showing nice Morgon, the second-biggest cru, also earns high marks, with a medley
fruit flavors and acidity. In 2018, record-breaking summer temperatures of soils including granite, blue stone and ancient alluvial deposits. Its
accelerated grape maturation, but well-tended vines delivered wines with most famous lieu-dit is Côte du Py, a hillside vineyard with decomposed
refreshing acidities and charming fruit flavors. The 2019 season was schist soils. The best Morgon wines show fleshy tannins, with red fruit,
marked by spring frosts and summer heat waves, yet early releases show floral and spice notes. Standouts include Jean-Paul & Charly Thévenet’s
appealing character, with bright fruit flavors and savory accents. glossy Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2018 (92, $37), Guy Breton’s delicately
Most of the highest-scorers come from Moulin-à-Vent, a leading cru crafted Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2018 (91, $37), Domaine des Gaudets’
defined by 71 lieux-dits, whose sandy granite soils are ideal for Gamay, sleek Morgon Côte du Py 2018 (91, $25) and Domaine des Marrans’
yielding wines that tend to show more power and complexity. Two of fragrant Morgon Corcelette 2018 (91, $23).
the top bottlings come from Burgundy-based wineries: the floral-tinged The most southerly of the crus, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly, are very
Albert Bichot Moulin-à-Vent Rochegrès Domaine de Rochegrès 2018 different from each other, despite the similarity in name and location.
(93 points, $60) and the elegantly textured Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Each, however, is home to passionate winemakers.
Château des Jacques Clos des Thorins 2017 (92, $40). The vineyards of the small Côte de Brouilly lie on the slopes of Mont
“Albert Bichot has been involved in Beaujolais for many years in long- Brouilly, a prehistoric volcano, which explains the blue stone soils.
term partnerships with growers, but more recently in 2014 with the ac- Complex and expressive wines from this cru include Nicole Chanrion’s
quisition of Domaine de Rochegrès, a 12-acre estate in Moulin-à-Vent,” red berry–filled Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes 2018
Mangenot says. “Gamay is a very interesting grape variety that needs a (90, $24) and Château Thivin’s spicy Côte de Brouilly 2018 (90, $31).
JEAN-LUC MEGE PHOTOGRAPHY
lot of care to give its best, as well as poor soils and fine winemaking. The latter comes from one of the cru’s benchmark wineries.
Farther down the slopes of Mont Brouilly is Brouilly, the largest and
FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST most diverse of the ten crus. It’s here that an ambitious project is un-
Get scores and prices for nearly 125 wines reviewed for
this report WineSpectator.com/BeaujolaisAlpha123120
derway from the Gruy family, who are betting big on Brouilly with the
purchase of the historic Château de la Chaize in 2017.

The property consists of a striking château built in 1676 and elaborate
gardens designed by André Le Nôtre, who also developed the gardens of
Versailles. The winery was built a century later, and the property remained
in the hands of the Chaize family for nearly three and a half centuries
before the Gruy family purchased it.
Almost immediately, the family began a list of ambitious projects to
bring Château de la Chaize into the modern era, with many long-term
goals centered around environmental sustainability. The improvements
to the winery and its surroundings include the acquisition of new vine-
yards; the total conversion to organic farming; a full renovation of the
massive cellar, including state-of-the-art upgrades such as a vibrating
sorting table; and the construction of a photovoltaic plant.
Leading the winemaking is Boris Gruy, whose attraction to Beaujolais
centers both on Gamay and on the geological diversity of the region.
For Gruy, these elements combine to produce “the style of the wine that
definitely fits the future of wine consumption around the world.”
While the domaine makes wines from several crus, Brouilly is the
heart of its production. “With mostly southeast-facing vineyards, Winemaker Matthieu Mangenot of Albert Bichot
Brouilly is perfectly exposed,” notes Gruy. “We work on the entire es-
tate with an extreme single-vineyard approach to adapt our vinifica- New releases include the Fleurie 2018 (91, $30), Brouilly 2016 (88,
tion to each terroir. The style of La Chaize wines differs depending on $20) and Brouilly La Chaize 2017 (87, $22). This will be an interesting
each plot, but we always try to preserve the fruit of Gamay, offering winery to watch as the benefits from the current upgrades kick in.
both complexity and liveliness thanks to our subsoils of granite and Gamay, once known for easy, casual reds, is now a winemaker’s dar-
blue stone.” ling, producing wines with complexity, character and distinction.
GILLIAN SCIARETTA’S RECOMMENDED WINES FROM BEAUJOLAIS

Nearly 125 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/BeaujolaisAlpha123120.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.
WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE
ALBERT BICHOT Moulin-à-Vent Rochegrès 93 $60 DOMAINE DES MARRANS Morgon Corcelette 2018 91 $23
Domaine de Rochegrès 2018 Fragrant rose petal notes weave through the ripe wild cherry and
Medium-bodied, with open-knit layers of rose petal, licorice-tinged raspberry flavors in this charming red.
cherry and raspberry flavors infused with clove and vanilla details.
CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN-À-VENT Moulin-à-Vent 91 $30
LOUIS JADOT Moulin-à-Vent Château des 92 $40 Couvent des Thorins 2018
Jacques Clos des Thorins 2017 Light tannins are beautifully textured and encase vivid raspberry and
Elegantly textured, with a concentrated profile offering raspberry currant flavors, matched with woodsy spice, licorice and floral details.
gelée, orange zest and cherry notes backed by spice, anise and herb.
DOMAINES DOMINIQUE PIRON Morgon Côte du Py 2018 91 $35
JEAN-PAUL & CHARLY THÉVENET Morgon 92 $37 Glossy and focused, with nice purity to the cherry and raspberry
Vieilles Vignes 2018 notes, showing accents of anise, granite and white pepper.
This open-knit and glossy red offers cherry, peach and apricot notes
in an elegant profile, with floral, berry tea and herb accents. CHÂTEAU THIVIN Brouilly Reverdon 2018 91 $26
Lively acidity cuts through the cherry and currant notes in this mouth-
GUY BRETON Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2018 91 $37 watering red, with details of white pepper, wet stone and dried herb.
Delicate cherry, peach and currant flavors are accented by rose water,
tea and anise in this light-bodied red, with mineral undertones. ALBERT BICHOT Fleurie La Madone 2018 90 $31
This bright red offers cherry and raspberry notes that show dried herb,
CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAIZE Fleurie 2018 91 $30 white pepper and woodsy accents, with firm acidity and nice energy.
A glossy red, with anise-lined cherry and raspberry notes that are pure
and focused, with accents of rose petal, woodsy spice and toast. NICOLE CHANRION Côte de Brouilly 90 $24
Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes 2018
PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE St.-Amour 91 $27 Raspberry and tart cherry flavors are flanked by smoke, herb and rose
Les Champs-Grillés 2018 petal notes in this supple red, accented by elements of spice.
Bright cherry, red currant and steeped raspberry flavors are matched
with accents of floral, anise and peach in this easy-sipping red. GEORGES DUBOEUF Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2018 90 $24
An element of smoke lingers through the currant, blackberry and
DOMAINE CHIGNARD Fleurie Les Moriers 2018 91 $27 savory spice details of this brooding, light-bodied red.
There’s an elegant touch to the plush cherry and wild raspberry fruit
in this pretty red, focused with vibrant, integrated acidity. CHÂTEAU GRANGE COCHARD Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2017 90 $20
Juicy acidity binds the ripe raspberry, peach and cherry flavors of
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE Moulin-à-Vent Coeur de Terroirs 91 $28 this supple red, with accents of peach, floral and licorice.
Vieilles Vignes 2017
CHÂTEAU THIVIN Côte de Brouilly 2018 90 $31
FLORE DERONZIER
Light-bodied, with complexity to the glossy currant and cherry notes,

accented by smoke, mineral and savory spice details. Peppery aromas line the tart cherry and red currant notes of this
minerally red, with details of herb, smoke and licorice drop.

S A V V Y S H O P P E R
ODDERO Nizza 2017 (90, $25) Black cherry,
California Gold blackberry, earth, mineral; dense, taut SPECTATOR
Here’s a festive group of California values,
RENZO MASI Toscana Erta e China 2018 (89, $15) SELECTIONS
featuring a number of sparkling wines that Aromatic, fresh; black cherry, blackberry, tar,
are perfect for brightening up any occasion. graphite, black pepper
A trio of Cabernet Sauvignons reveals the
MAROTTI CAMPI Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
H I GH LY RECOM M EN D E D
affordable side of the grape. 96 MATERVINI Malbec
Classico Albiano 2018 (88, $14) Yellow pear,
almond, lemon pith, sea salt; zippy, balanced Mendoza Piedras Viejas
DOMAINE CARNEROS Brut Carneros 2016
El Challao-Las Heras
(93, $33) Vibrant, refined; Asian pear, brioche, PRUNOTTO Barbera d’Asti Fiulot 2019 (88, $16)
2017 $150 ARGENTINA
strawberry blossom Black cherry, boysenberry, almond, earth; ripe,
Powerful, refined and
DECOY Brut California Cuvée NV (90, $25) fruity, lithe
complex, with expressive
Lemon, orange zest, floral, vanilla: layered, fresh SANTA CRISTINA Umbria White 2019 (88, $13) violet and rose petal
DURANT & BOOTH Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Zesty, fresh; green melon, lime zest, pickled notes to the concen-
Valley 2018 (90, $25) Ripe, detailed; cassis, ginger, stone trated red plum, dark
cherry, plum puree, graphite, toast, apple wood currant and wild cherry flavors.
GOLDSCHMIDT Zinfandel Alexander Valley
Fidelity The Railyard 2019 (90, $22) Briar, black
Vive La France
The Rhône Valley and Burgundy are the
cherry, grilled anise, white pepper; snappy highlights of this selection. St.-Péray isn’t COL L ECT IB LE
LOUIS POMMERY Brut California NV (90, $21) necessarily what you think of when the 96 CLOS
Steely, vibrant; lime, kiwifruit, blanched almond Northern Rhône comes to mind, but these DES PAPES
versions showcase the small appellation. Châteauneuf-
DOMAINE CHANDON Brut California NV (89,
du-Pape 2018
$19) Brisk; honeysuckle, apple, roasted nut Marsanne is the main grape, but Les Vins
$109 FRANCE
KORBEL Brut California Organic Grapes 2017 de Vienne adds Roussanne to the blend. A refined, silky
(89, $16) Apple, spiced nut, lime; bold, toasty The Bourgogne is a terrific Pinot Noir from style, with subtle
a region not typically known for its bargains. bitter cherry, damson plum and raspberry
JOEL GOTT Cabernet Sauvignon California 815
2018 (89, $18) Focused, juicy; loganberry, coulis notes racing through, flanked by gar-
LAURENT FAYOLLE St.-Péray Montis 2018
sassafras, anise rigue and sandalwood notes.
(92, $28) Lively, focused, fresh; apricot, peach,
KORBEL Brut California NV (88, $14) Citrus, nectarine, mineral, floral
honey blossom, spice; snappy LES VINS DE VIENNE St.-Péray 2019 (92, $28)
STERLING Cabernet Sauvignon California White peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, orange SMART BUY
Vintner’s Collection 2018 (88, $12) Friendly, zest; juicy, bright 91 LA CREMA
direct; crushed plum, red licorice, singed vanilla Sauvignon Blanc
LOUIS CHÈZE Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Sonoma County
Syrahvissante 2018 (91, $20) Alluring, silky; dark
2019 $25 CALIFORNIA
Bel Paese cherry, tar, anise, violet
This mouthwatering
Italy is the focus of this group BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS white offers a vibrant
of reds and whites, spanning Bourgogne Réserve 2019 mix of lime sherbet, ripe
(90, $28) Cherry, spice, fresh melon, candied ginger and lemongrass flavors
multiple regions from the hills
earth; harmonious, smoky on a smooth and juicy frame.
to the coast. Nizza is a new
Piedmont subzone specializing
in Barbera—and remember, it Sketches of Spain B E ST VA LUE
rhymes with pizza. La Stoppa’s This quartet offers a sample
Trebbiolo is a distinctive take of Spain’s bounty, including a 90 BODEGA CUATRO
on Barbera and Bonarda. Ver- Godello from Virgen del Galir, RAYAS Verdejo Rueda
dicchio is Marche’s signature a Valdeorras estate founded in 2019 $14 SPAIN
white, while the Santa Cris- 2002 and purchased by Rioja Floral and sea spray
aromas are alluring in
tina is a blend of Grechetto, star Cune in 2017.
this lively and graceful
Procanico and Viognier.
VIRGEN DEL GALIR Godello white, with pear, herbal
SELVAPIANA Pomino Villa Valdeorras Maruxa 2019 (92, $19) and chalky flavors bright-
Petrognano 2017 (93, $24) Intense, firm, juicy; heather, pear, ened by citrus acidity.
Burning vine cuttings, black mango, sea salt
cherry, balck currant; firm, savory BODEGAS CASA ROJO Monas-
ICARDI Barbera d’Asti Tabaren trell Jumilla Macho Man 2017
2018 (90, $15) Expressive, (90, $27) Black cherry, plum,
dense; blackberry, boysenberry, currant, herbal; bold, modern
pomegranate, earth, graphite TORRE DE OÑA Rioja Finca IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE
LA STOPPA Emilia Trebbiolo San Martín Crianza 2017 (90, You’ll find 38 classic wines and nearly
2018 (90, $24) Baked raspberry, $17) Subtle, dense; black cherry, 350 outstanding wines from among
plum, spice; juicy, expressive licorice, leafy, mineral reviews of more than 550 new releases.
ANTINORI Chardonnay Tasting notes and scores for those wines,
MAROTTI CAMPI Verdicchio dei BODEGAS VALDUERO Viño de
Umbria Bramìto della Sala along with hundreds of additional wines
Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore la Tierra de Castilla y León White
2019 (90, $22) SMART BUY reviewed since our last issue, can be found
Luzano 2018 (90, $17) Fresh, 2019 (88, $13) Pear, dried herb,
Tangy, expressive; peach, at WineSpectator.com using the Wine
balanced; baked peach, preserved kumquat, candied ginger, smoke; plush, harmonious
Ratings search, a members-only service.
lemon, almond biscotti, saline lime blossom, mineral —Bruce Sanderson

TH O MA S M ATT HEWS
Grateful
Y
ou may know me as a And the wines—well, who gets tired
journalist and a wine of wine? Constant instruction, endless
lover. I’m also a fan delight. People often ask me what my
of the Grateful Dead; favorite wine is. I really can’t answer.
my first concert was in So much depends on the context: So
New Haven, Conn., on July 31, 1971. many bottles have been perfect in
Their song “Truckin” talks about the their moment.
“long, strange trip it’s been.” I believe that since the publication’s
My own journey has been surprising, founding in 1976, Wine Spectator has
serendipitous and satisfying, and I am been a major force in nurturing wine
grateful. Looking back, I see a path culture in America. Our strength has
puncuated by dead ends and wrong been to balance journalism and criti-
turns—yet those detours were all in- cism. Our wine reviews help people
strumental in reaching my goals. choose with confidence; our articles
In 1977, I realized that a Ph.D. connect the wines with the people
program in political science didn’t and places that produce them.
suit me. So I changed direction. I left It has been a team effort. The Wine
Yale and moved to Spain to write a Spectator staff is talented and experi-
novel. But the novel didn’t satisfy me enced, many with 20-plus years at the
either, and I ran out of money. It felt publication. Our blind-tasting meth-
like a dead end. “Sometimes the light’s all odology for wine reviewing is the most
A friend told me picking grapes was professional in the business. We hold
great fun and light work. So we drove
shining on me …” to high standards of journalism and
to Bordeaux for the 1979 vintage. I follow a strict code of ethics. As a
landed at a small, family-run property result, I believe, we have earned the
and discovered that my friend was half-right. But the experience trust and loyalty of our readers, the largest audience for any wine
was so engaging I decided to write about wine. To make ends publication in the world.
meet, I worked as a bartender and wine buyer in New York, and There is no sustained success without strong leadership. Marvin
in 1986 returned to France to research another book: a portrait is a street-smart entrepreneur, an old-school publisher and a com-
of a wine village in Entre-Deux-Mers. mitted philanthropist. He’s driven and demanding, always striving
Wine Spectator agreed to try me as a freelancer, and in 1988 for improvement and growth; he’s also generous and loyal. He’s a
Marvin Shanken offered me a full-time position. I accepted. I practical visionary, and it has been a privilege to work with him.
wasn’t sure how long it would last but I figured that my book I owe the deepest debt to our readers. I am impressed by your
would lead to new opportunities. Wrong again. A Village in the passion for wine and grateful for your loyalty to Wine Spectator.
Vineyards (published in 1993) garnered positive reviews but It has been a pleasure meeting so many of you at our events. I
small sales. am sure I learned more from you than you have from me. I trust
But as one pathway closed, another was opening wide. I fell in you will be as kind to incoming executive editor Jeffery Linden-
love with Wine Spectator. Marvin was leading a small, talented muth as he brings his own energy and ideas to Wine Spectator.
team of journalists and critics; we were in the vanguard of an As the Grateful Dead sang, “Sometimes the light’s all shining
emerging wine culture. Wine sales grew. The magazine pros- on me.” I have been granted so many sun-filled vintages—33 with
pered. In 1999, Marvin gave me the opportunity to serve as Wine Spectator, and 40 with Sara, the love and light of my life,
executive editor. For him, it was a gamble. For me, it has been who has provided support and inspiration crucial to my success.
the roadmap leading to my true life. This year has been more difficult than most. But I am an
The wine world is a fascinating and hospitable place. Wine optimist, and I believe that every challenge is an opportunity. I
regions are beautiful, rich in history and culture, and the food thank all the friends, colleagues and readers who have traveled
is delicious. Wine people are engaging, creative and generous— with me on this long, strange trip. I look forward to sharing new
SARA MATTHEWS
it’s a community that embraces artisans, aristocrats and entre- adventures to come.
preneurs and that welcomed me whether I was a journalist, a Thomas Matthews has been with Wine Spectator since 1988. He steps
wine-buyer or a grape-picker. down as executive editor of the publication at the close of 2020.

G G
O THE O
T O P
p
1 0 0 p
OUR ANNUAL ROUNDUP OF THE
pYEAR’S MOST EXCITING WINESp
I
t’s been a challenging year. The global As always, our mission is to draw our readers’ at- globe, from New Zealand to Napa Valley and ev-
coronavirus pandemic caused up- tention to the most exciting wines our editors dis- erywhere in between. Wine lovers are drawn to this
heaval in all facets of our lives. The covered in their tastings. It all begins with the Wine varietal’s freshness, consistency and reasonable
wine and hospitality industries were of the Year, the Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja prices. It leads a group of white wines filling 30 slots
particularly hard hit when health safety Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010, a success on our list.
protocols required restaurants, bars, tasting rooms story resulting from the vision, passion and dedica- For complete tasting notes for the Top 100 wines,
and more, to limit service or simply close. tion of proprietor Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga see the Buying Guide. Senior editors MaryAnn
Nonetheless, wine lovers continued to enjoy wine and his team. Worobiec, Alison Napjus, Kim Marcus, James Moles-
at home, with retail sales helping support the industry. The Top 100 is also a snapshot of the year in wine. worth and Tim Fish, associate editors Ben O’Donnell
Wine Spectator kept pace: Our editors reviewed more You’ll find some of the best wines from leading grape and Gillian Sciaretta, assistant editor Collin Dreizen,
than 11,000 wines in blind tastings during the past varieties and famous appellations, particularly in our tasting coordinator Augustus Weed, associate tast-
year. Nearly 50% of those, 5,253 wines, rated an out- Top 10. Comfort wines from producers with reliable ing coordinators Aaron Romano, Aleks Zecevic and
standing 90 points or higher on our 100-point scale. track records figure prominently on our list this year, Cassia Schifter, assistant tasting coordinator Eszter
This was the pool from which we selected our Top a nod to staying home and enjoying your favorite Balogh, plus news editor Mitch Frank and editorial
100, evaluated for quality (based on score), value reds, whites, sparklers, rosés in safety. assistant Shawn Zylberberg all contributed to the
(based on price), availability (based on cases either For the first time since our inaugural Top 100 in profiles. We hope you enjoy this thoughtful list of
made or imported into the United States) and, im- 1988, Sauvignon Blanc occupies more than 10% of stellar wineries, new discoveries, reliable favorites
portantly, the back story of the wine, what we call our honor roll, a testament to the exciting styles and terrific values that make up Wine Spectator’s
the X-factor. and high quality achieved by vintners around the 2020 Top 100.
JCONTENTSJ
36 Wine of the Year 39 Top 100 at a Glance 41 Profiles of Wines Nos. 2 to 100 47 Top 100 by Region and Variety
G G
56 10 Years of Top 10s 60 Wines of the Year 1988–2019 64 Values in the Top 100
123 Top 100 Tasting Notes
G1G
WINE OF THE YEAR
BODEGAS MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA
Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010
96 points | $139 | 7,500 cases made, 680 cases imported
BY THOMAS MATTHEWS of the winery,” said Cebrián-Sagarriga. “The boss is the wine. You
G
need to be respectful of that. And without Cristina and María—I’m
reat wineries are not made in a day. It takes years going to be very clear to you—this dream would not be the same.”
to develop a vineyard and create a wine that ex- All of Murrieta’s wines are made from grapes grown in the 740-
presses its origins and its culture in a distinctive acre vineyard that surrounds the winery, located in the Rioja Alta
way. This year, a benchmark winery in Spain showed subregion.
how such a long-term project can result in remarkable success. “At the end, the most important thing in our winery is the vine-
Marqués de Murrieta is one of yard, the Ygay Estate,” Vargas said.
the founding wineries in Rioja, “This is the beginning of our phi-
Spain’s premier wine-producing re- losophy, our personality, our iden-
gion. Established in the 1850s, tity. With these different plots and
Marqués de Murrieta was a leader with different altitudes and differ-
in using French techniques to de- ent soils, we build different person-
velop greater complexity and lon- alities for the wines. But the key
gevity from Tempranillo, Rioja’s thing is the Ygay Estate, which is
indigenous red grape. the umbrella of our identity.”
In 1983, the winery changed The winery produces five wines.
hands, from its founding family to The bulk of production is its
Vicente Cebrián, an entrepreneur Reserva, which consistently earns
and winery owner from Galicia, in outstanding ratings and is a terrific
northwest Spain. Cebrián died value at around $30. Dalmau is a
young, in 1996, and his 26-year- bolder expression, which includes
old son, also named Vicente, took some Cabernet Sauvignon. There
over the estate. Vicente has spent are two small-production whites,
nearly a quarter of a century and made largely from the indigenous
more than $30 million restoring Viura grape.
and improving the property and its Castillo Ygay is Murrieta’s flag-
wines. Thanks to his passion and Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga ship bottling. Sourced from a 98-
his talent, Murrieta once again acre plot planted in 1950, it is
stands at the head of the class in Rioja. made only in top vintages. It’s a blend of mostly Tempranillo, which
“I decided to begin the new era of Marqués de Murrieta,” Vi- is aged in American oak barrels, with a small percentage of Mazu-
cente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, now 49, told Wine Spectator elo, which is aged in French oak. The wine is matured for a decade
(see “Marqués de Murrieta,” a profile by associate editor Gillian in the winery cellar before release.
THIS PAGE: MARKEL REDONDO; OPPOSITE: DAWN HEUMANN
Sciaretta in this fall’s Oct. 15 issue). “I wanted to transform ev- The 2010 vintage is Rioja’s best so far this century. This wine is
erything so that everything could stay the same. I wanted to up- rich yet harmonious, with complex flavors of dried cherry, forest
date the philosophy of this winery, the wines of the winery and floor, black tea and orange peel. It’s a beautiful example of Rioja’s
the people who worked here.” traditional style, and should drink well for decades.
Cebrián-Sagarriga assembled his team early. His sister, Cristina, This Rioja demonstrates how tradition and innovation can work
handles financial and administrative duties. He tasked María Var- together to deliver great wines. For its history, its quality, and for
gas, who had just graduated from university and was working in reminding us of the value of commitment and vision, the Bodegas
the winery laboratory, with winemaking duties. Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial
“Being the owner of a winery doesn’t mean that you are the boss 2010 is Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year for 2020.

WINE SPECTATOR’S 2020 TOP 100 AT A GLANCE
RANK SCORE PRICE WINE RANK SCORE PRICE WINE
1 96 $139 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay 49 93 $25 Istine Chianti Classico 2016
Gran Reserva Especial 2010 50 90 $14 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley 2019
2 95 $85 Aubert Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV Vineyard 2018 51 95 $75 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
3 97 $90 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére 2015 Goldrock Estate 2018
4 96 $135 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2016 52 93 $40 Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos 2018
5 96 $90 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape 53 94 $44 Dry Creek Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Spencer’s Hill Vineyard
Les Trois Sources 2016 Single Vineyard Series 2016
6 96 $90 Kistler Chardonnay Russian River Valley 54 92 $32 Travaglini Gattinara 2015
Vine Hill Vineyard 2017 55 93 $33 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja Rosado
7 95 $53 Massolino Barolo 2016 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 2009
8 96 $99 Bodega Piedra Negra Chacayes Los Chacayes 2015 56 94 $45 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley José Zuccardi 2016
9 95 $95 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 57 96 $180 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2017
The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2018 58 93 $44 Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet Sauvignon
10 97 $175 Bollinger Brut Champagne La Grande Année 2012 Napa Valley 2017
11 97 $40 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 59 90 $16 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Walker Bay 2019
12 96 $40 Bodegas y Viñedos Valderiz Ribera del Duero 2016 60 91 $24 Il Conte Villa Prandone Rosso Piceno Superiore
13 95 $45 Tolaini Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana Legit 2016 Marinus 2017
14 95 $52 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago 61 90 $16 Marichal Tannat Canelones Premium Varietal 2018
Bannockburn 2018 62 90 $16 Clos de la Grange Sauvignon Touraine 2018
15 96 $110 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley 63 93 $48 DeLille D2 Columbia Valley 2017
Three Palms Vineyard 2017
64 92 $35 La Crema Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018
16 95 $60 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2015
65 92 $45 Ployez-Jacquemart Brut Champagne Extra Quality NV
17 94 $23 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña Godeval
Cepas Vellas 2018 66 90 $20 Invivo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough X,
Sarah Jessica Parker 2019
18 94 $35 Hall Sauvignon Blanc Knights Valley 2018
67 95 $112 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
19 93 $35 Résonance Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017
68 95 $100 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2017
20 94 $28 Caiarossa Toscana Pergolaia 2016
69 91 $27 Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján de Cuyo D.O.C
21 92 $12 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc California 2019
Single Vineyard 2017
22 94 $40 Pierre Amadieu Gigondas Domaine Grand Romane 2017
70 92 $33 Suavia Soave Classico Monte Carbonare 2017
23 92 $17 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2020
71 91 $27 Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2017
24 97 $71 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabajà
Riserva 2015 72 90 $20 Mercer Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills
Mercer Bros. 2017
25 92 $18 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva 2013
73 90 $20 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019
26 93 $24 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley
Fig Tree Vineyard 2018 74 91 $30 Jermann Pinot Grigio Friuli 2017
27 95 $70 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 75 92 $46 Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2016
Gravas del Maipo 2017 76 90 $20 El Cep Brut Cava Gelida Gran Reserva 2015
28 93 $22 Bodegas Borsao Syrah Campo de Borja Zarihs 2016 77 96 $230 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 2017
29 94 $40 The Four Graces Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 78 95 $111 Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2017
Reserve 2017 79 90 $20 Stoller Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018
30 91 $15 Compañia de Vinos del Atlántico Garnacha Montsant 80 90 $20 Reata Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2018
Pinyolet 2016
81 96 $127 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan
31 91 $19 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Classique 2018 White 2017
32 93 $30 Foradori Manzoni Bianco Vigneti delle Dolomiti 82 90 $20 Tormaresca Primitivo Salento Torcicoda 2016
Fontanasanta 2018
83 91 $36 Golan Heights Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee
33 91 $22 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017 Yarden 2017
34 92 $25 Glenelly Chardonnay Stellenbosch Estate Reserve 2018 84 94 $35 Delas St.-Joseph White Les Challeys 2019
35 91 $25 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2017 85 90 $24 Koehler-Ruprecht Pinot Noir Kabinett Trocken Pfalz 2017
36 92 $24 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Chianti Classico 86 91 $26 Château Thivin Brouilly Reverdon 2018
Tenuta Perano 2015
87 96 $115 Wine & Soul Douro Pintas 2017
37 94 $42 Bergström Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Cumberland Reserve 2018 88 93 $52 Sleight of Hand The Archimage Reserve
Columbia Valley 2016
38 94 $35 Bodegas Juan Gil Jumilla Blue Label 2017
89 90 $20 Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc 2017
39 94 $41 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016
90 96 $110 Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG 2018
40 94 $44 Tensley Syrah Santa Barbara County
Colson Canyon Vineyard 2018 91 90 $20 Château Lamartine Malbec Cahors 2016
41 93 $40 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 Kalimna 2018 92 90 $26 Oremus Furmint Tokaji Mandolás 2018
42 93 $40 Gloria Ferrer Brut Carneros Royal Cuvée 93 97 $127 Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion 2017
Late Disgorged 2013 94 90 $15 Klinker Brick Grenache Blanc Lodi 2019
43 90 $13 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Tupungato 2019 95 93 $53 Albert Morot Beaune Cent-Vignes 2017
44 92 $30 Hartford Court Chardonnay Russian River 96 90 $22 Tenuta San Leonardo Sauvignon Blanc Vigneti delle
Valley 2018 Dolomiti Vette 2018
45 92 $34 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage Calendes 2017 97 90 $35 Fowles Shiraz Victoria Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch
46 92 $28 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Wild Ferment 2018
Filius 2017 98 94 $55 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles 2017
47 91 $18 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2017 99 90 $20 Grifalco della Lucania Aglianico del Vulture Gricos 2017
48 95 $65 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Jolie 2017 100 91 $25 Moric Burgenland Hausmarke 2017

G2G
AUBERT
Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV Vineyard 2018
95 | $85 | California
Mark Aubert is a skilled master of Pinot Noir from Sonoma County. His winemak-
ing is a mix of French and Californian styles, including whole-cluster fermentation
with natural yeast and long macerations on the skins. Aubert’s goal with Pinot is
to make wines with mouthfilling flavors and a low amount of tannins. The grapes
for this wine came from the clay- and sand-rich soils of UV Vineyard, located in
western Sonoma County near the town of Sebastopol. The site is named after the
late Ulises Valdez, the talented Mexican-American grapegrower who planted it
in 2001. 993 cases made.
Mark Aubert
G3G
SAN FILIPPO
Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére 2015
97 | $90 | Italy
Florentine real estate broker Roberto Giannelli purchased San Filippo in 2003,
knowing nothing about winemaking. Many sleepless nights and calls to vintner
friends ensued, along with investment in the vineyards and cellar. Within a de-
cade, the winery began producing excellent Brunello. On a plateau southeast of
the town of Montalcino, San Filippo’s 25 acres of vineyards are 1,155 to 1,320 feet
in elevation. The Le Lucére parcel is 6 prime acres, east-facing, with schist soils
and 25-year-old vines. The wine is fermented in stainless steel, undergoes malo-
lactic conversion in cement, then ages one year in 225-liter, 500-liter and 600-li-
ter barrels. It spends another 14 to 16 months in large casks and one year in bottle
before release. 1,300 cases made, 650 cases imported. Roberto Giannelli
G4G
TOP TO BOTTOM: COLIN PRICE, MOLCHEN PHOTO, LEIGH-ANN BEVERLY/BONAFIDE PRODUCTIONS
MAYACAMAS
Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2016
Since purchasing this historic winery in 2013, the Schottenstein family has installed
a new winemaking team and invested in the cellar and vineyards. But winemak-
ing remains staunchly traditional here. In-house winemaker Braiden Albrecht and
consulting winemaker Andy Erickson age the wine for 32 to 36 months in mostly
neutral oak, beginning with 20 months in large casks and finishing with 12 more
in smaller 225- to 500-liter barrels. An energetic Cabernet built on acidity and
minerality as much as tannin and fruit, this red will reward two decades of cellar-
ing. A benchmark in a top Napa Cabernet vintage, this 2016 marks the second
straight Top 10 appearance for Mayacamas. 1,600 cases made.
Braiden Albrecht

G5G
DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE
JULIENNE
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources 2016
96 | $90 | France
Jean-Paul Daumen took the reins of this family domaine from his father in 1992
and now is joined by his own son, Antoine. In the northeast corner of the appel-
lation, this biodynamically farmed estate totals 54 contiguous (rare in Châteauneuf)
acres of vines. In 2015 Daumen made a philosophical shift, choosing to base his
cuvées on specific terroirs rather than on vine age. The Les Trois Sources comes
from the domaine’s sandy soil parcels, which impart a silky elegance to the typi-
cally powerful fruit profile of Grenache, the lead variety. The wine also contains
Syrah, Counoise, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and others. Vieille Julienne’s wines are some
of the longest-lived in the appellation. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported. Jean-Paul Daumen
G6G
KISTLER
Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Vine Hill Vineyard 2017
Kistler makes a total of 11 vineyard-designated Chardonnays from various sites,
mostly in Sonoma, and winemaker Jason Kesner calls the Vine Hill bottling one
of his favorites. The vineyard surrounds the winery in the Russian River Valley
and is planted with a California heritage clone Kistler has refined; the low-yielding
vines are rooted in soil that is very sandy. The berries they produce are small in
size, their concentrated fruit flavors backed by high natural acidity that helps
promote long-term aging. This wine was barrel-fermented with native yeast and
then aged on the lees for a year before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
1,979 cases made. Jason Kesner
G7G
MASSOLINO
Barolo 2016
95 | $53 | Italy
TOP TO BOTTOM: JON WYAND, JIMMY HAYES, MOLCHEN PHOTO
This family-owned winery, founded in 1896, is run today by fourth-generation

brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino. Located in the heart of the village of Ser-
ralunga d’Alba, the 100-acre estate is known for its single-vineyard Barolos from
Margheria, Parafada, Parussi and Vigna Rionda, yet it’s their classic-style Barolo
from the excellent 2016 vintage that earns a spot on our list for its quality and
value. A blend of Nebbiolo from parcels in Briccolina, Le Turne, Collaretto, Broglio
and Damiano in Serralunga, with 5% from Parussi in Castiglione Falletto, the wine
aged 29 months in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks. 5,800 cases made, 2,100
cases imported.
Franco Massolino

G8G
BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA
Chacayes Los Chacayes 2015
96 | $99 | Argentina
This 100% Malbec is the flagship bottling of the Piedra Negra winery, owned
by France-based vintner François Lurton. At an elevation of 3,600 feet above
sea level, the Chacayes estate is located in the southern reaches of the Mendoza
region, Argentina's Malbec heartland. It was virgin territory when Lurton began
planting it to wine grapes in the 1990s; the soil in the desertlike climate is nutrient-
poor but rich with gravelly deposits from the nearby Andes. The wine was fer-
mented in barrels and 5,000-liter cement vats and aged for 24 months in mostly
new French oak, with some amphorae used to lessen the oak influence. Beginning
with the 2015, all the grapes are organically grown. 3,000 cases made.
François Lurton
G9G
BEAUX FRÈRES
Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge
The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2018
95 | $95 | Oregon
Beaux Frères has helped set the standard for modern Pinot Noir in Oregon since
its founding in the late 1980s, part of the second generation of Willamette Valley
wineries. Founder Mike Etzel is not hands-on in the cellar these days, but son
Mike D. Etzel and his team haven’t lost a beat. This 2018 is the wine of the vintage
to date, from a year that had its challenges. The 24-acre Beaux Frères vineyard
is planted with a mixture of Pommard, Wädenswil and newer Dijon clones on a
steep south-facing slope on Ribbon Ridge, a sweet spot in the Chehalem Moun-
tains AVA. The winemaking consists of wild-yeast fermentation and aging one
year in French oak, about 40% of which is new. 3,088 cases made. Mike Etzel
GG
BOLLINGER TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY OF BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA, DAVE LAURIDSEN, LEE OSBORNE
Brut Champagne La Grande Année 2012

97 | $175 | France
Founded in 1829, Bollinger is one of Champagne’s few remaining grandes marques
that’s entirely family-owned. Cellar master Gilles Descôtes was elevated to head
winemaker in 2013. He blended the 2012 La Grande Année, a racy version that
doesn’t hold back, deftly pairing an intense spine of acidity with an expressive
range of flavors offered by the two-thirds Pinot Noir, one-third Chardonnay blend,
sourced from premiers and grands crus vineyards. Following tradition, primary
fermentation occurred in a mixture of 228- and 400-liter, neutral oak barrels. Af-
ter blending and bottling for secondary fermentation, the 2012 aged in Bollinger’s
cellars for six years before disgorgement in 2019. 850 cases imported. Gilles Descôtes

THE TOP 100
Ribera del Duero. The flagship

11 Valderiz bottling is consistently
among Ribera’s best, despite costing
CASTELLO DI a fraction of the price of many of its
VOLPAIA peers. Siblings Juan, Ricardo and
Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Esther Esteban represent the current

generation of the family-owned es-
97 | $40 | Italy tate, which spans 148 acres on clay,
Volpaia’s 2015 riserva was the No. 3
sand and limestone soils. The Este-
wine on the 2018 Top 100, and the
bans eschew synthetic pesticides,
2016 makes a back-to-back triumph.
herbicides and fertilizers, and the
This estate, perched on a steep slope
2016 is 100% Tempranillo, vinified
2,000 feet above sea level in the
with indigenous yeasts before 24
heart of Tuscany’s Chianti Classico
months of aging in oak—80% French
region, produces elegant Sangio-
and 20% American. 2,000 cases
vese. The proprietors, the Masche-
made, 657 cases imported.
roni-Stianti family, give credit to the
land. The riserva is 100% Sangiovese,
selected from 116 acres of vines 13
farmed organically in poor sandstone
soils that force the roots deep. The TOLAINI
southern exposure and large diurnal Cabernet Sauvignon
temperature swings are ideal for slow Toscana Legit 2016
ripening. The wine is loaded with 95 | $45 | Italy
fruit, vibrant acidity and well-man-
This is the second release of Legit, a
nered tannins. 6,000 cases made,
collaboration between jazz great
3,300 cases imported.
Thelonius Monk’s family and Tolaini,
a Chianti Classico estate founded in 12. Tomás and son Juan Esteban of Bodegas y Viñedos Valderiz
12 1998 by the late Per Luigi Tolaini.
While the debut 2013 was “discov- old French barriques. Legit has
ered” through barrel tastings in the
15
BODEGAS Y quickly established itself as a unique
cellar, and the concept and label sub- success in the Tolaini portfolio.
VIÑEDOS VALDERIZ sequently created, the 2016 is a se- DUCKHORN
15,000 cases made, 2,500 cases
Ribera del Duero 2016 lection of Cabernet Sauvignon from Merlot Napa Valley
imported.
96 | $40 | Spain the San Giovanni vineyard vinified
This is the top wine tasted this year specifically for Legit. It aged three 96 | $110 | California
from the outstanding 2016 vintage in years in 70% new and 30% one-year- 14 This is a wine of remarkable pedi-
gree, from a first-class vineyard in
FELTON ROAD northern Napa Valley. The rocky vol-
2020 TOP 100 Pinot Noir Central Otago canic soils force the vines to set down
BY REGION AND VARIETY Bannockburn 2018 deep roots, resulting in grapes burst-
95 | $52 | New Zealand ing with concentrated fruit flavors.
ARGENTINA 4 GERMANY 2 Felton Road has established itself as The blend for the 2017 vintage is 91%
AUSTRALIA 3 HUNGARY 1 one of the most consistent Pinot Noir Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon,
AUSTRIA 1 ISRAEL 1 specialists in New Zealand’s Central with the remainder filled out by Mal-
Otago region. The Bannockburn bot- bec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver-
CALIFORNIA 18 ITALY 19
tling, named after the subregion, is a dot. It is aged almost two years in
Cabernet Sauvignon 4 Northeast 4
Chardonnay 3 Piedmont 4 blend of four organic and biodynam- 100% French oak, 75% of which is
Merlot 1 Tuscany 8 ically farmed estate vineyards and new barrels. 4,678 cases made.
Pinot Noir 3 Other 3 showcases the area’s fleshy, aromatic
Sauvignon Blanc 3 NEW YORK 1 style. Winemaker Blair Walter uses a
Syrah 1
NEW ZEALAND 4 light touch in his winemaking, includ-
16
Zinfandel 1
Other 2 OREGON 7 ing wild-yeast fermentation, with
about 20% whole clusters and long CAPRILI
CHILE 2 PORTUGAL 1
maceration on skins. The wine ages Brunello di Montalcino 2015
FRANCE 20 SOUTH AFRICA 3
13 months in French oak barrels, 95 | $60 | Italy
Bordeaux 5 SPAIN 9
Burgundy 1 27% new, from Burgundian coopers. The Bartolommei family were share-
Champagne 2 URUGUAY 1 There is no fining or filtering. 5,372 croppers until purchasing the Caprili
PACO SANTAMARIA
Loire 2 WASHINGTON 3 cases made, 199 cases imported. farm from neighboring Villa Santa
Rhône 6 Restituta in 1965; the Madre vineyard
Other 4
was planted that year and is still in

THE TOP 100
production. Its debut vintage of months in stainless steel tanks. 1,000

Brunello di Montalcino was the 1978. cases made, 600 cases imported.
Third generation Giacomo Bartolom-
mei runs the estate today, farming
44.5 acres of Sangiovese, 39.5 desig- 18
nated for Brunello di Montalcino, in
southwest-facing vineyards near HALL
Tavernelle. After about 20 days of Sauvignon Blanc
maceration, the Brunello ages three Knights Valley 2018
years in 20- to 60-hectoliter Slavo- 94 | $35 | California
nian oak barrels. According to Bar- Winemakers have been taking Sau-
tolommei “Slavonian oak best ex- vignon Blanc more seriously in re-
presses the flavor of Sangiovese and cent years, experimenting with new
therefore the land.” 4,000 cases ways to showcase its personality.
made, 3,000 cases imported. The diverse landscapes, climates
and winemaking preferences in Cali-
fornia translates to a growing array
17 of wine styles. Winemaker Megan
Gunderson swings for the fences in a
BODEGAS barrel-fermented style influenced by
GODEVAL Bordeaux versions, fermenting and
Valdeorras Viña Godeval aging the wine for 10 months in
Cepas Vellas 2018 French oak, 20% new, yet this wine
94 | $23 | Spain strikes an ideal balance between
Galicia, located in northwest Spain, richness and vibrancy. 1,225 cases
has a long history of wine produc- made.
tion, but a decline in the 20th century
16. Caprili's Giacomo Bartolommei
left its indigenous grapes, including
the white Godello, nearly extinct. Bo-
19
Guillaume Large, a Jadot veteran, in Yamhill-Carlton lending elegance
degas Godeval was founded by
Horacio Fernandez, José Luis Barto- RÉSONANCE says balanced acidity and ripeness. and fruit character, then purchased
The Willamette Valley Pinot was one Pinot from other growers to com-
lome and other partners in 1987 on Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley 2017 of Résonance’s top wines, offering plete the blend. 6,550 cases made.
the ruins of a 12th-century monas-
impressive quality at a fair price.
tery. They have been leaders in reviv- 93 | $35 | Oregon
Consulting winemaker Jacques
ing the Valdeorras appellation and Established in 2013 by France’s Mai-
Lardière selected 50% of the wine 20
the Godello variety. Godeval’s Cepas son Louis Jadot, this is one of Ore-
from two estates, with Résonance
gon’s rising stars. The winery pro-
Vellas is its flagship bottling; it comes
Vineyard in Dundee Hills providing CAIAROSSA
from the estate’s oldest vineyards, duced three outstanding Pinot Noirs
structure and Découverte Vineyard Toscana Pergolaia 2016
and has contact with the lees for five in 2017, a vintage that winemaker
94 | $28 | Italy
Caiarossa was acquired in 2004 by
the late Dutch supermarket mag-
nate, Eric Albada Jelgersma, who al-
ready owned two châteaus in Bor-
deaux. The properties are now
co-owned by his children—Valerie,
Dennis and Derk—and managed by
Alexander van Beek. The farming is
done on a mix of alluvial and volca-
nic soils using biodynamic methods.
Ten different grape varieties are
planted in 50 parcels on 74 acres of
vineyards. Former winemaker Dom-
TOP TO BOTTOM: MOLCHEN PHOTO, ANDRÉA JOHNSON
inique Génot made this blend of

mostly Sangiovese, with Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. 4,700 cases made, 1,200
cases imported.
19. Résonance

THE TOP 100
picking some blocks earlier than he

21 normally would have. Ultimately, the
vintage turned out to be one of the
JOEL GOTT best Marlborough has seen in recent
Sauvignon Blanc California years, with plenty of sunshine, low
2019 disease pressure, lower-than-average
92 | $12 | California yields and ripe fruit flavors that re-
Joel Gott comes from a line of vint- sulted in this superb value. 50,000
ners; his father founded Montevina in cases made, 16,000 cases imported.
the Sierra Foothills and his grandfa-
ther is a former president of Ingle-
nook Vineyards. But Gott’s wife,
24
Sarah, is at helm as winemaker for his
namesake label, focused on reason- PRODUTTORI DEL
able prices. Gott also founded Gott’s BARBARESCO
Roadside restaurants and The Station Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva
2015
in St. Helena, giving him a food lover’s
eye towards winemaking. Grapes are 97 | $71 | Italy
sourced from vineyards in Napa, So- Produttori del Barbaresco, a co-oper-
noma, Monterey, Santa Barbara and 21. Joel Gott ative founded in 1958, specializes in
Lake Counties. To preserve the wine’s Nebbiolo, making Nebbiolo Langhe,
fruit and natural acidity, it underwent emphasis on elegance and fresh- Barbaresco and nine single-vineyard
a long, cool fermentation in stainless ness in his wines. A juicy red with
23 riservas, all from vineyards within the
steel tanks. 98,000 cases made. herbal accents, the 2017 Gigondas commune of Barbaresco. The Bar-
Grand Romane is sourced from a ALLAN SCOTT baresco Rabajà Riserva is the best of
steep hillside vineyard of limestone Sauvignon Blanc a stellar range of 2015s, tempering
22 and marl soils, 1,320 feet above
Marlborough 2020 the ripeness of the vintage with pu-
sea level. Its Grenache, Syrah and 92 | $17 | New Zealand rity and a vibrant structure. It’s also
PIERRE AMADIEU Mourvèdre components are hand- The only 2020 vintage on our Top the highest-rated of the last four re-
Gigondas Domaine harvested, with the Mourvèdre fer- 100, this wine proves that despite the leases of this cru, all of which scored
Grand Romane 2017 mented using whole clusters. Forty year’s many challenges, there are 95 points or more. Made only in the
94 | $40 | France percent of the wine ages in neutral successes too. The grapes were best vintages, the riservas age for
This winery dates to 1929, when foudres, the remainder in a mix of picked in mid-March, just as the New three years in 25-, 35- and 50-hecto-
19-year-old Pierre Amadieu first la- new and used barriques, for 18 Zealand government released a strict liter casks before being bottled. 1,342
beled bottles under his name. Today, months. 6,500 cases made, 1,000 set of protocols related to COVID-19. cases made, 275 cases imported.
joined by his uncle Claude and sev- cases imported. Winemaker Josh Allen reported at
eral cousins, Amadieu’s grandson the time that the pressure and anxi-
Pierre runs the business, placing ety of the pandemic resulted in him 25
BODEGAS
MONTECILLO
Rioja Reserva 2013
92 | $18 | Spain
Bodegas Montecillo, founded in 1874,
is one of the oldest wineries in Rioja.
Third-generation winemaker José
Luis Navajas led the winery to inter-
national success by introducing inno-
vative winemaking techniques such
as cold fermentation. In 1973, Monte-
cillo was acquired by Spain’s Os-
borne wine company, itself founded
in the 18th century. This 2013 reserva
is expertly crafted, with 90% Tempra-
nillo, 7% Mazuelo and 3% Garnacha.
The wine is aged in French and
American oak barrels for 24 months,
then bottle-aged for at least 24
TOP: BRIANA-MARIE
months before release. 26,500 cases

made, 15,900 cases imported.
22. Pierre Amadieu

THE TOP 100
26 28
QUIVIRA BODEGAS BORSAO
Sauvignon Blanc Syrah Campo de Borja
Dry Creek Valley Zarihs 2016
Fig Tree Vineyard 2018
93 | $22 | Spain
Bodegas Borsao, in Spain’s moun-
Dry Creek Valley’s signature white
tainous northeast, put the Campo de
grape, Sauvignon Blanc, thrives in
Borja region on the map for many
the region’s deep, well-draining
wine lovers with its affordable, con-
gravelly and sandy loam soils, pro-
sistently excellent reds. Garnacha
ducing impressive wines such as
reigns here, but the Zarihs bottling
Quivira’s Fig Tree bottling. Wine-
spotlights Syrah. Zarihs comes from
maker Hugh Chappelle starts with
plots in the foothills of the Sierra de
organically grown grapes from a
Moncayo range reaching 2,300 feet
block of some of the oldest vines on
in altitude, where vines benefit from
Quivira’s Wine Creek Ranch, picking
the cierzo wind; Shiraz specialist and
some of the grapes early to accen-
winemaker/partner Chris Ringland
tuate the grassy character. Chapelle
also brings his expertise. The 2016,
blends two different clones, includ-
representing an outstanding vintage,
ing a dollop of the aromatic Sauvi-
is 100% Syrah, aged 12 months in
gnon Musqué. He ferments and ages
40% American oak barrels and 60%
the fruit in stainless steel, oak and
stainless steel tanks. 8,000 cases
acacia barrels to show off a complex
expression of Sauvignon with
herbal, tropical and mineral flavors.
1,310 cases made. 29
27 THE FOUR GRACES

Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Reserve 2017
27. Concha y Toro’s Enrique Tirado CONCHA Y TORO
94 | $40 | Oregon
Cabernet Sauvignon
Puente Alto Gravas del The Four Graces Reserve is consis-
Maipo 2017 tently outstanding, but it reached
95 | $70 | Chile new heights in 2017. The vintage
The Puente Alto subdistrict of the started cool and wet then turned
Maipo Valley is home to many of hot during the summer, requiring
Chile’s top wines, including this ex- a deft hand to achieve balance and
traordinary Cabernet Sauvignon vibrancy in the wines. Winemaker
from the country’s largest wine Marc Myers and assistant winemaker
company. It’s from the same vine- Tim Jones, who took over in 2018,
yard as the company’s flagship Don tapped the Foley Family Vineyard
Melchor bottling and offers similar in the Dundee Hills appellation of
quality to its stablemate in 2017, but the Willamette Valley. Formerly the
at about half the price. The vineyard Black Family Estate, the 54-acre
is planted on well-drained alluvial vineyard was planted in 1990, in the
soils that limit productivity and con- region’s iron-rich Jory soils. 3,064
centrate the flavors. Winemaker cases made.
Enrique Tirado tapped a mix of
younger vines and different blocks
than the Don Melchor, and aged the
30
wine in three-quarters older French
oak to emphasize the dark fruit and
COMPAÑIA DE
spice flavors. 1,500 cases made, 500 VINOS DEL
cases imported. ATLÁNTICO
Garnacha Montsant
BOTTOM: MARKEL REDONDO
Pinyolet 2016
91 | $15 | Spain
Founded in 2002 by two owners of a
28. Bodegas Borsao Spanish wine importer, this producer

THE TOP 100
Wright’s Pinots, this blend is vibrant,

elegantly rich and accessible com- 35
pared to his age-worthy single vine-
yard bottlings. Wright ferments the TRIMBACH
grapes in small, open-top contain- Riesling Alsace 2017
ers, avoiding whole-cluster fermen- 91 | $25 | France
tation to preserve an opulent style of
The Trimbach family has been mak-
Pinot on release. It is aged on its lees
ing beautiful wines in France’s Alsace
in older, neutral French for 10
region for 13 generations. Their
months. 18,000 cases made.
namesake estate, founded in 1626,
is located in the medieval town of
34 Ribeauvillé, which sits on a fractured

fault line that created an assortment
of soils including limestone, sand-
GLENELLY
stone, marl and clay, benefiting a
Chardonnay Stellenbosch
Estate Reserve 2018 range of aromatic grape varieties.
Due to Alsace’s unique and dry mi-
33. Ken Wright 92 | $25 | South Africa croclimate, the late-ripening Riesling
May-Éliane de Lencquesaing, former
grapes were picked at the end of
seeks to highlight diverse regions and owner of Bordeaux’s Château Pichon
October. Overseen by winemaker
styles around the Iberian peninsula. 32 Longueville Lalande, founded Gle-
Pierre Trimbach, the wine was then
The Pinyolet Garnacha hails from nelly in 2003. The estate was a part
fermented in stainless steel and
limestone-red clay soils in the El Mas- FORADORI of Ida’s Valley farm, where de Lenc-
concrete vats, without malolactic
roig subregion of Montsant, in north- Manzoni Bianco Vigneti delle quesaing replaced the fruit trees with
fermentation, to help preserve the
eastern Spain’s Catalonia; pinyolets Dolomiti Fontanasanta 2018 vines. Viticulturist Heinrich Louw and
wine’s natural acidity. 30,000 cases
are the limestone pebbles that 93 | $30 | Italy winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain aim
abound in the soils here. The 2016 is a This winery in northern Italy’s Tren- for wines that combine power with
100% varietal Garnacha from vine- tino region, owned by the Foradori elegance. The grapes are picked
yards that reach 1,700 feet in eleva- family since 1939, is helmed by the early to retain acidity and keep the 36
tion. It aged for six months in 3-year- dynamic Elisabetta Foradori who alcohol low. All wines at the estate
old French oak barrels and showcases today works alongside her children, are fermented spontaneously. This MARCHESI DE’
the density, balance and bright fruit winemaker Emilio, Theo and Myrtha. Chardonnay, the winery’s highest- FRESCOBALDI
that are hallmarks of this outstanding Under Foradori’s leadership the scoring to date, was whole-bunch
Chianti Classico
vintage, at a very friendly price. 3,500 winery has explored local varieties, pressed, fermented in new and sec- Tenuta Perano 2015
cases made, 3,146 cases imported. alternative winemaking techniques ond-fill 500-liter French oak barrels 92 | $24 | Italy
and biodynamic farming, converting and aged on its lees for nine months.
Marchesi Frescobaldi president Lam-
31 fully in 2002. The Manzoni Bianco
grape—an intriguing cross between imported.
berto Frescobaldi had his eye on
Tenuta Perano as early as 1992, then
Riesling and Pinot Bianco—thrives
FORGE in the clay-limestone soils of the
again in 2008; he secured a lease in
2014, finally acquiring the 160-acre
Riesling Seneca Lake Dry 12-acre Fontanasanta vineyard. A
Classique 2018 Chianti Classico property at the end
vibrant, distinctive white, this wine of 2017. Sitting at 1,650 to 1,815 feet in
91 | $19 | New York
was fermented with skin contact
French winemaker Louis Barruol of in cement tanks followed by aging
Gigondas’ Chateau de St.-Cosme set for 12 months in acacia casks. 650
his sight abroad, teaming up with lo- cases imported.
cal Richard Rainey to create Forge
Cellars and make single-vineyard Pi-
not Noir and Riesling wines in New 33
York’s Finger Lakes region. This bot-
tling is a blend of hand-harvested KEN WRIGHT
TOP TO BOTTOM: JOHN VALLS, OLIVIER WYMANN/HELIAKA.COM
Riesling grapes from 16 different Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

vineyards of contracted growers 2017
along the east side of Seneca Lake. 91 | $22 | Oregon
Using techniques uncommon in the This veteran Oregon winemaker fre-
Finger Lakes, the duo did a whole- quents our Top 100 with a large and
cluster pressing followed by months- impressive list of single-vineyard
long fermentation with indigenous wines but this blend of 13 vineyards
yeasts in mostly neutral oak as well captures the essence of Willamette
as stainless steel. 4,000 cases made. Valley Pinot Noir in a single bottle.
The most widely available of 35. Trimbach

J TEN YEARS OFJ
top 10’s
THE 100 MOST EXCITING WINES
G OF THE DECADE 2010-2019

G
2019 2017
1 Château Léoville Barton 97 1 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley 95
St.-Julien 2016 ($98) | FRANCE Three Palms Vineyard 2014 ($98) | CALIFORNIA
2 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon 96 2 K Syrah Walla Walla Valley 95
Mount Veeder 2015 ($125) | CALIFORNIA Powerline Estate 2014 ($45) | WASHINGTON
3 San Giusto a Rentennano 95 3 Château Coutet Barsac 2014 ($37) | FRANCE 96
Chianti Classico 2016 ($36) | ITALY
4 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 95
4 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon 96 2012 ($65) | ITALY
Oakville Reserve 2016 ($150) | CALIFORNIA
5 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas 95
5 Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley 95 2015 ($43) | FRANCE
L’Ermitage 2012 ($48) | CALIFORNIA
6 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont 95
6 Château de Beaucastel 97 2016 ($44) | FRANCE
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($107) | FRANCE
7 Château Canon-La Gaffelière 95
7 Ramey Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros 95 St.-Emilion 2014 ($61) | FRANCE
Hyde Vineyard 2016 ($65) | CALIFORNIA
8 Hestan Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Meyer Vineyard 2014 95
8 Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2016 ($176) | FRANCE 96 ($70) | CALIFORNIA
9 Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT 96 9 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley 2015 ($75) | CALIFORNIA 95
Bin 798 2017 ($150) | AUSTRALIA
10 Booker Oublié Paso Robles 2014 ($80) | CALIFORNIA 95
10 Viña Almaviva Puente Alto 2016 ($130) | CHILE 95
2018 2016
1 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia 97 1 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95
Sassicaia 2015 ($245) | ITALY 2013 ($90) | CALIFORNIA
2 Château Canon-La Gaffelière 96 2 Domaine Serene Chardonnay Dundee Hills 95
St.-Emilion 2015 ($84) | FRANCE Evenstad Reserve 2014 ($55) | OREGON
3 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 96 3 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 95
Riserva 2015 ($35) | ITALY The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2014 ($90) | OREGON
4 La Rioja Alta Rioja 890 Gran Reserva 95 4 Château Climens Barsac 2013 ($68) | FRANCE 97
Selección Especial 2005 ($175) | SPAIN
5 Produttori del Barbaresco 96
5 Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne 96 Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2011 ($59) | ITALY
Dom Pérignon Legacy Edition 2008
($180) | FRANCE 6 Orin Swift Machete California 94
2014 ($48) | CALIFORNIA
6 Aubert Chardonnay Carneros 96
Larry Hyde & Sons 2016 ($85) | CALIFORNIA 7 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 94
7 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem 95
Mountains Dopp Creek 2015 ($26) | OREGON 8 Antinori Toscana Tignanello 2013 ($105) | ITALY 94
8 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($70) | FRANCE 95 9 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan White 96
2013 ($106) | FRANCE
9 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna San Lorenzo 2016 ($60) | ITALY 95
10 Hartford Family Zinfandel Russian River Valley Old Vine 93
10 Bedrock The Bedrock Heritage Sonoma Valley 95 2014 ($38) | CALIFORNIA

THE TOP 100
2015 2012
1 Peter Michael Cabernet Sauvignon 96 1 Shafer Relentless Napa Valley 96
Oakville Au Paradis 2012 ($195) | CALIFORNIA 2008 ($60) | CALIFORNIA
2 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 96 2 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas 95
Columbia Valley 2012 ($140) | WASHINGTON 2010 ($41) | FRANCE
3 Evening Land Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 98 3 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley 95
Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Bella’s Garden 2010 ($69) | AUSTRALIA
2012 ($70) | OREGON
4 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 98
4 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 95 2010 ($128) | FRANCE
2010 ($85) | ITALY
5 Château Guiraud Sauternes 96
5 Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay 95 2009 ($60) | FRANCE
Santa Cruz Mountains 2012 ($60) | CALIFORNIA
6 Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 95
6 Bodegas Aalto Ribera del Duero 94 2009 ($105) | FRANCE
2012 ($54) | SPAIN
7 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 94
7 Escarpment Pinot Noir Martinborough Kupe Single Vineyard 95 Shea Vineyard Estate 2009 ($40) | OREGON
2013 ($69) | NEW ZEALAND
8 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve 94
8 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 95 2009 ($45) | CALIFORNIA
Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron 2008 ($85) | ITALY
9 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 94
9 Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2012 ($72) | FRANCE 94 2007 ($60) | ITALY
10 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Constantia 95 10 Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Bella Vista 95
2009 ($80/500ml) | SOUTH AFRICA 2010 ($120) | ARGENTINA
2014 2011
1 Dow Vintage Port 2011 ($82) | PORTUGAL 99 1 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 95
2 Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale 95
Carnival of Love 2012 ($75) | AUSTRALIA 2 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96
Kathryn Hall 2008 ($90) | CALIFORNIA
3 Prats & Symington Douro 97
Chryseia 2011 ($55) | PORTUGAL 3 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg 96
Première Trie 2009 ($69) | FRANCE
4 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 97
2011 ($76) | PORTUGAL 4 San Felice Brunello di Montalcino 96
Campogiovanni 2006 ($50) | ITALY
5 Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River 96
Art Series 2011 ($89) | AUSTRALIA 5 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 95
6 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 95
San Lorenzo Gran Selezione 2010 ($52) | ITALY 6 Baer Ursa Columbia Valley 95
2008 ($35) | WASHINGTON
2012 ($135) | FRANCE 7 Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro 95
2008 ($55) | PORTUGAL
8 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2012 ($40) | CALIFORNIA 94
8 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 96
9 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 95 2006 ($90) | ITALY
Don Melchor 2010 ($125) | CHILE
9 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009 ($55) | FRANCE 94
10 Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2011 ($165) | FRANCE 95
10 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas Valbelle 2009 ($58) | FRANCE 94
2013
1 Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 95
2010
2004 ($63) | SPAIN 1 Saxum James Berry Vineyard 98
Paso Robles 2007 ($67) | CALIFORNIA
2 Château Canon-La Gaffelière 96
St.-Emilion 2010 ($103) | FRANCE 2 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley 94
Bella’s Garden 2008 ($55) | AUSTRALIA
3 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 95
Evenstad Reserve 2010 ($65) | OREGON 3 Peter Michael Chardonnay Sonoma County 97
Ma Belle-Fille 2008 ($85) | CALIFORNIA
4 Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 95
2010 ($92) | CALIFORNIA 4 Revana Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 97
5 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley 95
2010 ($75) | CALIFORNIA 5 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96
6 Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Barolo 95
Monprivato 2008 ($110) | ITALY 6 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 94
7 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape 97
Cuvée Réservée 2010 ($120) | FRANCE 7 Schild Shiraz Barossa 2008 ($20) | AUSTRALIA 94
8 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 96 8 Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 95
2010 ($120) | FRANCE 2007 ($110) | ITALY
9 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 96 9 CARM Douro Reserva 2007 ($27) | PORTUGAL 94
10 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape White 95
10 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 95 2009 ($100) | FRANCE
2010 ($135) | WASHINGTON

THE TOP 100
39. Paola (center), with sons Luca (left) and Nicolò De Ferrari of Boscarelli
elevation, its three amphitheaters are

surrounded by forest and farmed or-
out the fresh fruit character and then
39 40
aged a year in French oak, 10% new.
ganically. The 2014 harvest, challeng- 4,210 cases made.
TENSLEY
ing in Chianti Classico, wasn’t bot- BOSCARELLI
tled, making 2015 the debut release.
Syrah Santa Barbara County
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
There is also a riserva and single-par- 38 2016
Colson Canyon Vineyard
2018
cel Rialzi Gran Selezione in the range, 94 | $41 | Italy 94 | $44 | California
all earning outstanding ratings, how- BODEGAS JUAN GIL Boscarelli was founded in 1962 by This is the third appearance in a row
ever it’s the value angle that earns Jumilla Blue Label 2017 Egidio Corradi. His daughter Paola for Tensley’s Colson Canyon Syrah in
this 100% Sangiovese a spot on our 94 | $35 | Spain found herself running the winery in our Top 100, a testament to wine-
list. 2,000 cases imported. Bodegas Juan Gil is a multi-genera- 1983 after the death of her husband, maker Joey Tensley’s skill with the
tional winery founded by Juan Gil Ji- Ippolito De Ferrari. Today, Paola and grape and the pedigree of this vine-
37 ménez in the Jumilla region in 1916.
In 2001, Miguel Gil Vera relaunched
her sons Luca and Nicolò oversee the
vineyard management and wine-
yard. Santa Barbara enjoyed a nearly
ideal growing season in 2018 with a
the struggling family business and making, farming 59 acres of vine-
BERGSTRÖM has expanded to many of Spain’s yards in the Cervognano zone of
moderate summer and leisurely har-
vest that Tensely says produced
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley most important wine regions. The Montepulciano. This Vino Nobile di
Cumberland Reserve 2018 wines with great freshness and acid-
Jumilla winery, located on the vine- Montepulciano comes from a selec- ity, and enough tannins to round
94 | $42 | Oregon tion of parcels around the property,
yard plateaus of eastern Spain at them out. He used up to 25% whole
Pinot Noir terroir is best defined by a roughly 1,300 to 3,000 feet, encom- blending roughly 90% Sangiovese, clusters during fermentation for
single vineyard but the essence of a passes nearly 4,000 acres, produc- with indigenous grapes like Canaiolo. their tannins and aromas, then
vintage is often captured best by a ing 750,000 cases of estate and It’s aged in varying sizes of Slavonian racked into barrel, using 25% new
regional blend. That’s the case for sourced wines. Juan Gil’s Blue Label oak barrels up to 30 hectoliters. oak, to age one year, including six
this wine, which winemaker Josh is made from old-vine Monastrell Combining freshness, elegance and months on the lees. 1,500 cases
Bergström blended from the best grapes, indigenous to the region, as complexity, it represents almost half made.
barrels from his five estate vineyards, well as Cabernet Sauvignon and of their production. 4,200 cases
which encompass 70 acres of biody- Syrah, aged 18 months in French and made, 800 cases imported.
namically farmed vineyards in American oak barrels. 2,500 cases
Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains made, 1,250 cases imported.
and Ribbon Ridge AVAs. A large
MAX MORRICONI
percentage of the Pinot Noir is fer-

mented with whole clusters to bring

THE TOP 100
Zeroing in on Malbec’s proclivity for

41 smooth texture and fruit-forward WINES OF THE YEAR
PENFOLDS
personality, chief winemaker Rodrigo
Serrano aims for an expressive style
1988–2019
Shiraz South Australia with vibrant acidity, using little or no
RELEASE
Bin 28 Kalimna 2018 oak to allow the refined raspberry YEAR SCORE WINE PRICE
93 | $40 | Australia and red currant flavors to shine. He
2019 97 Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 2016 $98
The Penfolds portfolio includes many uses mostly organically farmed
grapes from the winery’s estate vine- 2018 97 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia $245
distinctive wines at various price
Sassicaia 2015
points. The Bin 28 Kalimna was first yards and purchased grapes from
made in 1959, named after the surrounding Tupungato,delivering 2017 95 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley $98
Barossa Valley vineyard that Pen- an impressive volume at a reasonable
folds purchased in 1945. Grapes for cost. 88,540 cases made, 27,793 2016 95 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 $90
the original wine came from this cases imported. 2015 96 Peter Michael Cabernet Sauvignon $195
vineyard, but today, the wine is a Oakville Au Paradis 2012
2014 99 Dow Vintage Port 2011 $82
multi-regional, multi-vineyard blend.
Compared to the signature Grange
44 2013 95 Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 $63
bottling, Bin 28 Kalimna is a fraction 2012 96 Shafer Relentless Napa Valley 2008 $60
of the price, yet it’s still an expressive HARTFORD COURT
Chardonnay Russian River 2011 95 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 $52
Shiraz, made from younger vine-
Valley 2018 2010 98 Saxum James Berry Vineyard $67
yards, with less new oak, and aged
12 months in American oak hogs- 92 | $30 | California Paso Robles 2007
heads. 9,560 cases imported. Known for its single-vineyard expres- 2009 95 Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon $27
sions of Chardonnay, Pinot and Zin- Columbia Valley Reserve 2005
fandel, Hartford Court took a regional 2008 96 Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta $75
42 approach in an exceptional vintage Colchagua Valley 2005
with this Russian River bottling. 2018 2007 98 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005 $80
GLORIA FERRER was a nearly ideal year, with a pro- 2006 97 Casanova di Neri Brunello di $70
Brut Carneros Royal Cuvée longed harvest that resulted in con- Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2001
Late Disgorged 2013 centrated flavors backed by crunchy 2005 96 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 2002 $150
93 | $40 | California acidity. Winemakers Jeff Stewart and
2004 100 Château Rieussec Sauternes 2001 $80
Gloria Ferrer has roots in Spain but it Tiaan Lordan used cool vineyard sites
2003 95 Paloma Merlot Spring Mountain District 2001 $45
produces a genuine California-style throughout the Russian River Valley,
fermenting the wines in barrel and 2002 93 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1999 $30
of sparkling wine: vibrant, boldly
fruit-driven and at the introductory completing the malolactic fermenta- 2001 96 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri $110
tion, with regular lees-stirring, to Superiore Ornellaia 1998
level, great value. The Ferrer family,
which founded Cava producer Freix- build the luscious and rich flavors in 2000 98 Antinori Toscana Solaia 1997 $115
enet, established Gloria Ferrer in 1982 this wine. 17,000 cases made. 1999 95 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon $28
and sold controlling interest to Ger- Sonoma County Cinq Cépages 1996
man-based Henkell & Co. in 2018.
Winemaker Steven Urberg also
45 1998 97 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien 1995 $50
1997* 100 Fonseca Vintage Port 1994 $55
makes luxury cuvées like this Royal
Cuvée from the more than 300 acres FERRATON PÈRE & 100 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 1994 $55
of estate vineyards in Carneros. FILS 1996 95 Beringer Chardonnay Napa Valley $20
Crozes-Hermitage Calendes Private Reserve 1994
A blend of 67% Pinot Noir and 33%
2017 1995 97 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange 1990 $100
Chardonnay, it was fermented in
stainless steel and aged 4.5 years in 92 | $34 | France 1994 98 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon $75
the bottle to develop complexity. Michel Chapoutier bought Michel Napa Valley Special Selection 1990
4,800 cases made. Ferraton’s Northern Rhône winery in 1993 100 Château Latour Pauillac 1990 $80
2004, but has kept the domaine 1992 98 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron $45
separate from his own wine com- Pauillac 1989
43 pany, as a nod to Ferraton’s history 1991 97 Château de Beaucastel $35
of outstanding wines. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1989
DOMAINE takes a different approach to the
1990 95 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon $30
BOUSQUET winemaking here with the help of Napa Valley Private Reserve 1986
Malbec Tupungato 2019 Damon Brisset, who has managed
1989 98 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon $38
90 | $13 | Argentina the winemaking at a new facility that Napa Valley Special Selection 1984
opened in 2013. This Crozes Hermit-
This wine is an achievement in con- 1988 97 Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 1985 $379
age offers an expressive and true
veying authentic varietal character
intro to the appellation, with dark *Two wines shared top honors
and blending on a large scale.
plum and blackberry fruit flavors,

bottled the inaugural 250 cases. Is-
tine’s style exudes elegance and
51
freshness in its range of Chianti Clas-
sicos, thanks to its high altitude vine- PAUL HOBBS
yards in Radda and Gaiole, while also Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Goldrock Estate 2018
showing density and structure. The
introductory Chianti Classico from 95 | $75 | California
the superb 2016 vintage is rich and Located in the far northwestern cor-
firm. This 100% Sangiovese, a blend ner of Sonoma County, the gently
of the estate’s vineyards, fermented sloping Goldrock vineyard is one of
in stainless steel and cement, then the most recent and best additions to
aged in large Slavonian oak casks for Paul Hobbs’ impressive stable of Pi-
12 months. 850 cases made, 450 not Noirs. It is a sunny upland site
cases imported. that is rich with loamy soils of the
48. Maggy Hawk
Goldridge formation, in which many
wrapped in sweet tobacco and lico- of Sonoma’s best vines are rooted.
rice root notes. 7,500 cases made,

Elena. The Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne
2017 was sourced from vineyards in
50 The 2018 vintage featured moderate
1,000 cases imported. temperatures and a long harvest that

the commune of Agliano Terme and
elsewhere around the Asti hills and-
LOS VASCOS ranks as one of best in recent mem-
was aged in barriques, oak casks and Sauvignon Blanc ory for California Pinot Noir. 801
46 stainless steel for 18 months. It’s a
Casablanca Valley 2019 cases made.
textbook introduction to the style.

90 | $14 | Chile
VASSE FELIX The Los Vascos winery, owned by Do-
Cabernet Sauvignon
maines Barons de Rothschild of Châ-
52
imported.
Margaret River Filius 2017 teau Lafite since 1988, has been one
92 | $28 | Australia of the driving forces of Chile’s modern VINCENT CARÊME
The Margaret River in Western Aus- 48 winemaking revolution. The grapes Vouvray Le Clos 2018
tralia is known for Chardonnay but for this wine come mostly from the 93 | $40 | France
it’s also home to some of the coun- MAGGY HAWK cool climate Casablanca Valley from Vincent Carême founded his epony-
try’s best Cabernet Sauvignons. The Pinot Noir Anderson Valley growers under long-term contract. mous winery in 1999 with 12 acres of
grape thrives in the Mediterranean Jolie 2017 They were pressed and fermented at vineyards. Today, Carême owns 42
climate and well-draining gravelly 95 | $65 | California low temperature in stainless steel acres in Vouvray and the six-acre Le
loam soils, resulting in savory, struc- The 2017 Jolie bottling comes from tanks to preserve the fresh fruit fla- Clos is his favorite site. The 50- to
tured reds. This was among the re- one block of the 58-acre Maggy vors and then partially aged on the 60-year-old vines, with southwest
gion’s top Cabernets in 2017. Chief Hawk Vineyard, situated in what lo- lees for added richness. 25,000 cases exposure, are farmed organically. The
winemaker Virginia Willcox tapped cals call “The Deep End” of Anderson made, 6,000 cases imported. soil structure is composed of clay,
the nearly 358-acre Adams Road Valley in Mendocino County. Sur-
Vineyard estate in Margaret River’s rounded by redwoods and just 16
warmer Carbunup region, with small miles from the Pacific, thick fog
sections from its Boodjidup and makes this particular section of the
Home vineyards. She aged the wines valley among California’s coolest cli-
in French Oak barriques, 10% new, for mates for fully ripening grapes. Tony
12 months prior to blending. 18,000 Rynders and Sarah Wuethrich bring
cases made, 900 cases imported. out the best of the Dijon Clone 115
planted there, characterized by lively
acidity and structured tannins. The
47 wine ages for 15 months in 45% new
French oak. 460 cases made.
VIETTI
Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2017
91 | $18 | Italy 49
Historic Piedmont house Vietti is best
known for its cru bottlings of Barolo, ISTINE
TOP TO BOTTOM: EMMA K. MORRIS, WILDLY SIMPLE
but insiders know the winery also Chianti Classico 2016

makes great Barbera. Owned by 93 | $25 | Italy
American businessman Kyle Krause Having worked in the vineyard man-
and his family since 2016, the winery agement company started by their
consistently releases outstanding father, Fabio and Stefano Fronti be-
Barberas from both Alba and Asti gan buying vineyards in Chianti Clas-
under the direction of former propri- sico in 1972. It wasn’t until 2009 how-
etors Luca Currado and his wife, ever, that Fabio’s daughter Angela 51. Paul Hobbs

THE TOP 100
flint and limestone, which helped

with water retention during the dry 54
summer of 2018. After whole-bunch
pressing, the spontaneous fermenta- TRAVAGLINI
tion takes place in 400-liter barrels. Gattinara 2015
The wine is transferred to foudre af- 92 | $32 | Italy
ter nine months for blending and
Clemente Travaglini farmed a few
stays there two months until bottling.
acres of vines as early as 1920, how-
500 cases imported.
ever it was his grandson Giancarlo
who focused entirely on wine pro-
53 duction from Gattinara, establishing

this estate in 1958. Today, Cinzia Travi-
glini and husband Massimo Collauto
DRY CREEK 54. Cinzia Travaglini and Massimo Collauto
make several reds from 136 acres of
Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
vineyards on granite soils around the with mature notes of dried fruit, tarra- coming from Paraje Altamira and
Spencer’s Hill Vineyard
Single Vineyard Series 2016 appellation. The 2015 Gattinara is gon and beeswax. A 60/30/10 blend the Cabernet from Gualtallary, both
94 | $44 | California from a vintage with a cooler than av- of Garnacha, Tempranillo and the in the Uco Valley subzone of Men-
erage spring and a beautiful summer. white grape Viura, this cuvée was doza. The wine was fermented in
Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley is consid-
The wine aged three years in large sourced entirely from the clay-lime- concrete vats with native yeasts,
ered by many wine lovers to be the
Slovenian oak casks. The result is hall- stone soils of the estate Tondonia and aged in large oak casks; it was
heart of Zinfandel country—and for
mark Nebbiolo: Plum, cherry, rose hip, vineyard in Rioja Alta. The Gran then bottled without fining and fil-
good reason. Some of California’s
earth and leather flavors. 18,0000 Reserva Rosado is only made in top tration. It is named for José Zucca-
leading Zinfandel producers call the
cases made, 5,250 cases imported. vintages; the 2009 was aged four rdi, who oversees the winery for his
area home, including Dry Creek
years in American oak barrels and the family. 5,000 cases made, 2,000
Vineyard. This wine superbly cap-
remainder in bottle. 1,166 cases made. cases imported.
tures the region’s essence with its
55
briary and lively character and rasp-
berry, toasted herb and spice flavors.
R. LÓPEZ DE 56 57
It’s a selection from the Endeavour
HEREDIA VIÑA
Vineyard but named after second
TONDONIA FAMILIA ZUCCARDI CHÂTEAU FIGEAC
generation owner Kim Stare Wal-
Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia Malbec Uco Valley St.-Emilion 2017
lace’s son Spencer, who used to play José Zuccardi 2016
there as a child. Winemaker Tim Bell
Gran Reserva 2009 96 | $180 | France
93 | $33 | Spain 94 | $45 | Argentina The proof of a quality winery is what
aimed for a voluptuous style, adding
Rioja’s venerable R. López de Here- From one of Argentina’s most inno- they produce in difficult years. Bor-
more Petite Sirah to the blend (19%)
dia, a family-run standard-bearer of vative wineries comes this vibrantly deaux’s 2017 vintage was scarred by
than to the other single vineyard
Spain’s traditional style, rewards fruity expression of Malbec, which a brutal frost that drastically cut
Zins. 800 cases made.
drinkers with highly distinctive yet af- contains 5% Cabernet Sauvignon yields across the region. Château
fordable whites and rosados released for added structure. The grapes rep- Figeac, for example, made 60% as
after a decade-plus of aging. This resent two prized high-altitude much of its grand vin as it did in 2016.
unique rosé is almost rust-colored, vineyard districts, with the Malbec But the results were impressive—a
complex, powerful red that should
age for years to come. It’s further evi-
dence that Figeac has regained its
stature. One of St.-Emilion’s historic
names, the estate is producing its
best wines in years thanks to a shift in
focus by the owning family and the
energies of young general director
Frédéric Faye. 4,833 cases made.
58
MOUNT VEEDER
WINERY
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley 2017
TOP: MOLCHEN PHOTO
This wine offers all the depth and

ageability of a classic Cabernet, but
56. Familia Zuccardi
at $44, it’s one of the best buys for

THE TOP 100
Napa Valley, especially considering hills around Monteprandone. Marinus

the impressive volume produced. is wonderful introduction to what the
The winery’s 44 acres planted on region can do, a medium-bodied red
three adjacent ranches on Mount with a perfect balance of bright fruit,
Veeder, ranging between 1,000 and vibrant minerality and good struc-
1,600 feet in elevation, provide the ture. It’s a blend of Sangiovese and
foundation, which helps control cost, Montepulciano, vinified in stainless-
with additional fruit coming from val- steel vats, then aged in large oak
ley floor vineyards, including casks for one year. 7,000 cases made,
Oakville, to scale production. None- 3,000 cases imported.
theless, winemaker Niki Williams
manages to keep the wine distinctly
Mt. Veeder, with racy acidity, blue- 61
berry and bay leaf flavors and smol-
dering tannins. 29,000 cases made. MARICHAL
Tannat Canelones Premium
Varietal 2018
59 90 | $16 | Uruguay
61. Alejandro and Juan Andrés Marichal
Tannat, a robust-tasting red grape
SOUTHERN RIGHT from southwest France, has found a
Sauvignon Blanc Walker Bay
2019
home across the Atlantic in Uruguay,
where it has become the
VALUES IN THE
90 | $16 | South Africa de facto national grape. Founded in 2020 TOP 100
Anthony Hamilton Russell, a Chardon- 1938 by immigrants from Spain’s
nay and Pinot Noir specialist from Canary Islands, this 120-acre family- The 22 wines listed below all scored at least 90 points and
Hemel-en-Aarde, founded Southern owned estate benefits from cool cost $20 or less. They are organized by descending score and
Right in 1994 with the idea to focus breezes from nearby ocean waters ascending price; rank in the Top 100 is indicated to the right.
solely on Pinotage and Sauvignon that provide nearly ideal growing SCORE PRICE WINE RANK
Blanc. It was named after the South- conditions in the Canelones region.
92 $12 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc California 2019 21
ern Right whales that can be seen in To control Tannat’s powerful tannins
92 $17 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc 23
Walker Bay, less than 2 miles away and to accentuate its fruit flavors,
Marlborough 2020
from the vineyards. The 2019 Sauvi- brothers Alejandro and Juan Andrés
92 $18 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva 2013 25
gnon Blanc comes from sites in three Marichal utilize a short fermentation
different appellations: Hemel-en- regime. 2,200 cases imported.
91 $15 Compañia de Vinos del Atlántico Garnacha 30
Montsant Pinyolet 2016
Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde
Valley and Walker Bay. The soils are
91 $18 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2017 47
predominantly clay and sandstone. 62 91 $19 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Classique 2018 31
The wine is barrel-fermented and 90 $13 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Tupungato 2019 43
aged in neutral oak, promoting a pure CLOS DE LA 90 $14 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc 50
fruit and mineral structure. 9,000 GRANGE Casablanca Valley 2019
cases made, 3,500 cases imported. Sauvignon Touraine 2018 90 $15 Klinker Brick Grenache Blanc Lodi 2019 94
90 | $16 | France 90 $16 Clos de la Grange Sauvignon Touraine 2018 62
90 $16 Marichal Tannat Canelones Premium 61
60 Clos de la Grange is a label from
François Chidaine that is exclusive to Varietal 2018
the United States market. Chidaine 90 $16 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 59
IL CONTE VILLA has built his reputation on producing Walker Bay 2019
PRANDONE outstanding Chenin Blanc from his 90 $20 Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc 2017 89
Rosso Piceno Superiore own vineyards. However, for this 90 $20 Château Lamartine Malbec Cahors 2016 91
Marinus 2017
wine, he works with several growers 90 $20 El Cep Brut Cava Gelida Gran Reserva 2015 76
91 | $24 | Italy around Touraine. The grapes are 90 $20 Grifalco della Lucania Aglianico del Vulture 99
Le Marche is one of Italy’s hidden sourced from vineyards that are rich Gricos 2017
gems, a small province in Central in clay, flint and chalk. Spontaneous 90 $20 Invivo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough X, 66
Italy on the Adriatic Coast. The De fermentation takes place in stainless- Sarah Jessica Parker 2019
Angelis family has operated this steel tanks, followed by maturation 90 $20 Mercer Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 72
winery for several decades. They on the lees, until bottling in early Mercer Bros. 2017
own about 100 acres of vines in the spring. The idea is to create a pure 90 $20 Reata Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2018 80
90 $20 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 73
ENTER OUR TOP 100 SWEEPSTAKES! 90 $20 Stoller Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 79
Don’t miss this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to win a bottle of each of 90 $20 Tormaresca Primitivo Salento Torcicoda 2016 82
the Top 10 wines of 2019. Enter at WineSpectator.com/Sweepstakes

REMEMBER
THE FUTURE
The corners of the world that make your heart sing
– and those you have yet to experience.
;OLÄULÅH]VYZVM[OL^VYSK`V\»]LZH]VYLKVUIVHYK
and on your explorations – and those you have yet to taste.
It’s all ahead of you.

#9LTLTILY;OL-\[\YL
Enjoy exquisite food and

recommended wine pairings in
La Reserve by Wine Spectator
on board the stunning
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THE TOP 100
”There’s a huge amount to learn

[about the wine industry] and I’m
just trying to completely absorb
all I can and immerse myself,” says
Parker. 55,000 cases made, 35,000
cases imported.
67
CHÂTEAU DE
BEAUCASTEL
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
95 | $112 | France
The Perrins are one of the most
celebrated winemaking families in
France, with ventures throughout
the Rhône and Provence. But their
contiguous 272-acre Château de
Beaucastel estate continues to be
62. François and Manuela Chidaine of Clos de la Grange their crown jewel, and its 2017
Châteauneuf-du-Pape carries that
expression of the variety and vintage, Yamhill-Carlton AVA and Zena Crown legacy forward. Like its predecessors,
thus, this wine reflects not only grape in Eola-Amity Hills. Six other vineyards 66 the wine was blended from all 13
type, but that 2018 was a warm year from around the valley are tapped to grapes allowed in the appellation,
for the region. 1,200 cases imported. round out the production. Winemaker INVIVO grown organically in the region’s
Craig McCallister used just 23% new galets soils. Manually harvested dur-
Sauvignon Blanc
French oak barrels and aged the wine Marlborough X, ing a hot, dry year, the Syrah and
63 for eight months, letting the snappy Sarah Jessica Parker 2019 Mourvèdre grapes were fermented
raspberry and plum flavors take cen- 90 | $20 | New Zealand in truncated wooden vats, with the
DELILLE ter stage in this textbook sleek and Invivo stands out among New Zea- Grenache and other varietals in con-
D2 Columbia Valley 2017 vibrant regional expression from yet land Sauvignon Blancs for both crete tanks. 3,500 cases imported.
93 | $48 | Washington another excellent vintage in Oregon. quality and an innovative approach
DeLille’s D2 was one of Washington’s 26,434 cases made.
top Merlot blends in 2017, a hot vin-
to business. Founders Tim Light-
bourne and Rob Cameron turned
68
tage with low yields that made tan-
nin management a key issue for red
65 Invivo into the largest crowdfunded
company—let alone winery—in the MT. BRAVE
wines. Director of winemaking and Southern Hemisphere. Here they Cabernet Sauvignon
viticulture, Jason Gorski, and his
PLOYEZ- collaborate with actor-producer-
Mount Veeder 2017
team employed délestage to man- JACQUEMART designer Sarah Jessica Parker, 95 | $100 | California
age the tannins, removing juice from Brut Champagne blending five Marlborough vineyards Mt. Brave is one of several wineries
Extra Quality NV from Jackson Family Wines high-
the fermenter tanks and running it spanning the Wairau and Awatere
back over the cap. They also re- 92 | $45 | France valleys. The final mix sees a light oak lighting Napa Valley’s rugged moun-
moved the grape seeds during the Owner and winemaker Laurence influence from untoasted barrels. tain terroirs. The vineyard is planted
process, to moderate extraction. The Ployez, the third generation at this
wine is a blend of 15 different vine- house, sources fruit for her wines
yards in the Columbia Valley, with the from 35 acres of premiers and grands
TOP TO BOTTOM: CLAY MCLACHLAN, COURTESY OF INVIVO X, SARAH JESSICA PARKER
majority based in Red Mountain. crus vineyards, five of which are es-
12,600 cases made. tate-owned and the remainder under
long-term contract. The mouthwa-
tering Extra Quality is based on the
64 solid 2014 vintage, blending Char-
donnay (50%) with equal parts Pinot
LA CREMA Noir and Pinot Meunier. With four
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley years of aging prior to release, Ployez
2018 goes well beyond the legal minimum
92 | $35 | Oregon of 15 months for this finely knit non-
This bottling takes advantage of vintage bottling. 40,000 cases
prized vineyards owned by the made, 6,930 cases imported.
parent company, Jackson Family
66. Sarah Jessica Parker, Tim Lightbourne and Rob Cameron of Invivo
Wines, including Gran Moraine in the

THE TOP 100
on steep slopes between 1,400 to The Monte Carbonare is made with

1,800 feet in rocky, nutrient-deficient Garganega grapes, grown in volcanic
soils. Proximity to the San Pablo Bay and clay soils on a hill of the same
keeps temperatures 10-to-15 degrees name. The grapes are both fer-
cooler than the valley below, which mented and aged in stainless steel
extends the growing season and pro- to best convey the unique volcanic
motes thick-skinned berries, result- soil’s true essence, and the 2017 vin-
ing in concentrated flavors and ro- tage is a shining example. 3,500
bust tannins. Mountain winemaking cases made, 1,500 cases imported.
specialist Chris Carpenter brings out
the best of the vineyard, choosing
barrels that enhance Mt. Veeder’s 71
forward fruit while mitigating its as-
sertive tannins. 2,700 cases made. STARK-CONDÉ
Cabernet Sauvignon
Stellenbosch 2017
69 91 | $27 | South Africa
The history of Stark-Condé starts
BODEGA LUIGI with Hans and Midori Schroder
BOSCA buying a farm in 1989. In 1998, their
Malbec Luján de Cuyo D.O.C daughter, Marie, and her winemaker
Single Vineyard 2017
husband, José Condé, arrived and
91 | $27 | Argentina Stark-Condé was created. Today,
The Arizu family established Bodega José is joined by winemaker Rudger
Luigi Bosca in 1901; today, fourth- van Wyk. The grapes come from
generation members are at the helm four organic estate vineyards on
of the country’s oldest family-owned decomposed granite in the Jonker-
winery. Determined to push the na- shoek Valley. In the outstanding 2017
tion toward quality, the Arizus took vintage, Petit Verdot, Petite Syrah,
a leading role in creating Lujan de Malbec and Cabernet Franc make
70. Suavia Cuyo’s Controlled Denomination of up 15% of the blend. The wine is
Origin (C.D.O.) in 1989, establishing matured in a mix of new and used
regulations the appellation must French oak barrels for 20 months
adhere to, including a minimum of before bottling. 2,074 cases made,
50 year-old vines. This Malbec was 2,000 cases imported.
the first C.D.O.-certified wine in Ar-
gentina, and its label proudly bears
its seal. Made from the Finca La Linda 72
vineyard, with vines that average 70
years of age, it’s aged in new French MERCER
oak barrels for 12 to 14 months. Cabernet Sauvignon
27,500 cases made, 7,000 cases Horse Heaven Hills
imported.
Mercer Bros. 2017
90 | $20 | Washington
Mercer has a track record of produc-
70 ing wines that deliver beyond their
price. Named for siblings Robert and
SUAVIA Willis Mercer, who run this family win-
Soave Classico ery, this red was its best value from the
Monte Carbonare 2017 2017 vintage, and an excellent bargain
92 | $33 | Italy for Cabernet Sauvignon. Washington
The Tessari family has been growing native Jeremy Santo, who joined as
grapes in the Veneto region since the winemaker in 2017, and his team had
1800s, but it wasn’t until 1982 when access to nearly 300 acres of vines
Giovanni and Rosetta Tessari made that Mercer farms in the warmer
them into wine. In 1990, they built a Horse Heaven Hills in southeastern
state-of-the-art winery, now run by Washington. They aimed for a style
that is bright in aromas, rich and full
BOTTOM: KEVIN CRAUSE
their daughters Meri, winemaker Val-

entina, and Alessandra. They’re fo- midpalate, by fermenting with whole
cused on Soave’s two native grapes: berries to control flavor and tannin
Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave. extraction. 14,980 cases made.
71. José Condé of Stark-Condé

THE TOP 100
72. Willis and Robert Mercer
great-grandson. After graduating its modern era began in 1962, with

73 from enology school in the 1970s, 76 the first vintage of Monte Bello. This
Silvio sought winemaking inspiration wine is truly about vintage and place,
SPY VALLEY in Canada, hoping to transform the EL CEP as little changes year-to-year with
Sauvignon Blanc heavy wines then common in Friuli Brut Cava Gelida Eric Baugher’s winemaking: Minimal
Marlborough 2019 into the elegant versions he imagined. Gran Reserva 2015 intervention, native-yeast fermenta-
90 | $20 | New Zealand This Pinot Grigio is a prime example; 90 | $20 | Spain tions and aging primarily in new
Spy Valley is named after a U.S. gov- from marl and sandstone soils, the Cava finds itself in a tricky spot this American oak. 2017’s warm days
ernment listening station near the fresh fruit and stony mineral character year. Sales are growing thanks to the and cold nights slowly ripened the
winery, but the quality of its wines is preserved with fermentation and six taste for all things bubbly, but many crop, yielding a vibrant fruit core.
is no secret. The Johnson family first months aging in stainless steel before producers do not want to compete The unique soils—schist, sandstone
planted vineyards in Marlborough in release. 15,250 cases imported. with Italian Prosecco in the value and clay layered over decomposing
1993, releasing the inaugural vintage space. Instead they are focusing on limestone—contribute to the wine’s
in 2000. Today, it consistently gar- distinctive character, with firm acidity
ners outstanding ratings under the
75 quality at a slightly higher price point.
El Cep is an alliance of four vintner lending to its ageability. 3,750 cases
direction of chief winemaker Wendy families in Penedès, hoping to create made.
Stuckey. The 2019 vintage was warm CHÂTEAU DE a grower Cava house. All their vine-
and dry, resulting in concentrated PIBARNON
wines. The grapes were fermented Bandol 2016
yards are organically farmed. Gelida
is their top wine, a blend of Macabeo,
78
mostly in stainless-steel tanks to 92 | $46 | France Xarel-lo, Pinot Noir, Parellada and
preserve the pure fruit flavors, with Château de Pibarnon, purchased by Chardonnay. The wine undergoes CLOS FOURTET
a few blocks fermented in barrels to Eric de Saint-Victor in 1975, is one of secondary fermentation in the bottle St.-Emilion 2017
add texture and complexity. 40,000 Bandol's leading estates. Perched for more than 40 months before dis- 95 | $111 | France
cases made, 35,000 cases imported. atop the highest and most northern gorgement. 7,500 cases made, Philippe Cuvelier made his fortune in
part of the appellation, Pibarnon 3,000 cases imported. office stationary before selling his
boasts a scenic amphitheater of Northern French firm in 1999. Two
74 vines with distinct clay, limestone years later, he bought the historic
and white chalk soils rich in micro-
77 Clos Fourtet, a walled vineyard atop
JERMANN fossils. This wine is made from 90% St.-Emilion’s limestone plateau, just
Pinot Grigio Friuli 2017 Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache RIDGE outside of the town itself. Philipp’s
91 | $30 | Italy sourced from the estate’s best plots. Monte Bello son Mathieu has been in charge of
Santa Cruz Mountains 2017 the property since then. They are
Anton Jermann left Austria in 1881, Fermentation is followed by a three-
founding his winery in northeast week maceration; the wine aged 20 96 | $230 | California increasingly experimenting with
ANDRÉA JOHNSON
Italy’s Friuli–Venezia-Giulia region. months in large, neutral oak casks. Monte Bello is one of California’s biodynamic farming. In the cellar,
The winery’s modern iteration is 8,000 cases imported. most iconic Cabernet blends. The the grapes, primarily Merlot with
the vision of Silvio Jermann, his vineyard’s history dates to 1885, but some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet

THE TOP 100
Sauvignon, are vinified in steel vats

and the wine is aged in French oak
barriques, more than 60% of them
new each vintage. 3,333 cases made.
79
STOLLER
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018
90 | $20 | Oregon
Bill Stoller grew up working at the
family turkey farm in Dayton, Ore-
gon. After the farm closed in 1993,
he started planting grapes. Today,
there are 225 sustainably farmed
acres of vineyards on the ranch,
which sits within the Dundee Hills
AVA. This approachable blend is
culled from sources around Willa-
mette Valley, with a mix of terroir
and clones, and it captures the spirit 78. Clos Fourtet
of the region’s distinctive Pinot Noir.
Winemaker Melissa Burr ages the
80 River Valley vineyards comprising
43% of the fruit in this cuvée that
then fermented and aged on the
lees for 12 months in 50% French
blend for nearly a year in French
oak, 15% of which was new. Stoller she fermented in stainless steel new oak. 2,083 cases made.
REATA tanks to preserve its crisp fruit fla-
also owns Chehalem winery, where
Chardonnay Sonoma Coast vors and acidity. The rest came from
Burr is also winemaker. 5,300 cases 2018
made. the Sonoma side of Carneros, which
90 | $20 | California delivered more white and tropical 82
This wine is all about the art of fruit components, which she barrel-
blending. Winemaker Linda Trotta fermented for added richness. The TORMARESCA
tapped two family-farmed Russian result is in one of the best quality-to- Primitivo Salento Torcicoda
price ratios for California Chardon- 2016
nay on the market today. 5,200 90 | $20 | Italy
cases made. In 1998, the famous Italian winemak-
ing family Antinori invested in the
81 Puglia region, creating Tormaresca.

With the experience of 26 genera-
tions, the family’s goal was to fuse
CHÂTEAU SMITH- tradition and technology. The
HAUT-LAFITTE grapes are grown using sustainable
Pessac-Léognan White 2017 farming, and the wines are made us-
96 | $127 | France ing modern techniques. Made en-
Florence and Daniel Cathiard pur- tirely of Primitivo, Torcicoda cap-
chased this Pessac-Léognan estate tures the fruit-forward character of
in 1990. Enologist and agricultural the grape in a lively, balanced style.
engineer Fabien Teitgen is manag- Picked at the beginning of Septem-
ing director. Together, and with the ber for peak ripeness, the grapes are
help of cutting-edge technology, fermented in stainless steel, before
they have and continue to study ev- going through malolactic fermenta-
ery aspect of their terroir, calling the tion while aging in French and Hun-
practice “Bio-Precision.” The certi- garian oak for 10 months. 4,000
fied organic property employs phy- cases imported.
totherapy treatments that help to
strengthen the vines' natural de-
fenses, to avoid using chemicals.
TOP: TAYLOR YANDELL
The Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon

Gris and Sémillon grapes that go
80. Linda Trotta of Reata into this blend are hand-harvested,

THE TOP 100
83
GOLAN HEIGHTS
WINERY
Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee
Yarden 2017
91 | $36 | Israel
Established in 1983, Golan Heights
winery currently manages 1,500
acres of vines across 28 vineyards
that are further divided into 430
blocks, each vinified separately. Of
the four brands produced, Yarden is
the winery’s flagship label. For this
wine, Victor Schoenfeld, head wine-
maker since 1992, sources their best
Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from
Galilee, Israel’s most northern appel-
lation, which offers volcanic soils and
elevations that span 1,300 to 3,900
feet. The wine ages 18 months in
French oak barrels, 40% new. 24,000
cases made, 4,000 cases imported.
86. The Geoffray family of Château Thivin

84
world’s third-largest producer Claude-Edouard. The Gamay grapes French oak barriques, 70% new.
DELAS of the grape. Known locally as for this wine came from 45-year-old 1,000 cases made, 70 cases
St.-Joseph White Spätburgunder, plantings have vines grown on pink granite soils imported.
Les Challeys 2019 located in the Reverdon lieu-dit op-
doubled to nearly 30,000 acres
94 | $35 | France posite of Mount Brouilly in the cru
This micro-négociant and estate,
since 1990 and quality has risen
due to warmer vintages, vintners’ of Brouilly. After eight days of whole-
88
owned by the Rouzaud family, has experience and aging vines. Koehler- cluster fermentation—a traditional
quietly shifted its style in recent years Ruprecht dedicates 20% of its technique for the area—it was aged SLEIGHT OF HAND
under the guidance of winemakers vineyards to Pinot Noir. Sourced for eight months in concrete tanks. The Archimage Reserve
Jacques Grange and Claire Darnaud. 1,900 cases imported.
Columbia Valley 2016
from multiple sites that grow on
The whites in particular now see less gravelly sandstone, limestone and
93 | $52 | Washington
bâtonnage and new oak, resulting in loess, handpicked bunches are de- Washington’s red wines are typically
a fresh style that emphasizes miner- stemmed and wine is fermented
87 bold and full-bodied. Sleight of
ality and floral notes. This cuvée is a with indigenous yeasts in stainless Hand channels that power, derived
blend of Marsanne and Roussanne steel and open-top vats. Matura- WINE & SOUL from plenty of sunshine and the
sourced from vineyards around the tion takes place in neutral oak Douro Pintas 2017 soils, into wines of elegance and
towns of Ste.-Epine, Mauves and St.- barrels for almost two years. 500 96 | $115 | Portugal depth. The winery was founded in
Pierre-de-Boeuf. These prime, gran- cases imported. Wife-and-husband team Sandra 2007 by Jerry and Sandy Solomon,
ite-based slopes are located just Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serôdio along with winemaker Trey Busch.
across the river from the hill of Her- Borges claim impressive resumés, A near 50-50 blend of Cabernet
mitage and deliver exceptional qual- 86 previously working as winemaker Franc and Merlot, Archimage Re-
ity without the price tag of their more at Quinta do Vale D. Maria and enol- serve is svelte and seamlessly com-
famous neighbor. 889 cases made. CHÂTEAU THIVIN ogist at Niepoort, respectively. The plex. Busch harvested purchased
Brouilly Reverdon 2018 two started Wine & Soul, in Portu- grapes from Red Mountain and es-
91 | $26 | France tate vineyards near Walla Walla and

85 gal’s Douro Valley, in 2001. The first
vineyard they purchased was Pintas, aged the wine for 20 months in 44%
The history of Chateau Thivin, a
located in the Pinhão Valley, consist- new French oak. 750 cases made.
KOEHLER- benchmark winery in Beaujolais’
ing of 80-year-old vines and more
Côte de Brouilly cru, dates back to
RUPRECHT than 35 indigenous grape varieties.
the 14th century, but its modern-
Pinot Noir Kabinett Trocken Their red field blend is their flagship
Pfalz 2017 day story began when it was pur-
chased by the Geoffray family in wine, made from hand-picked
90 | $24 | Germany
DOMINIK FUSINA
1877. Today, the winery is run by grapes grown on schist soils that
This is the first Top 100 appearance are foot trodden in granite lagares,
the fifth and sixth generations,
for a Pinot Noir from Germany, the followed by aging for 22 months in
Claude Geoffray and his son,

89
CHÂTEAU CAMBON
LA PELOUSE
Haut-Médoc 2017
90 | $20 | France
After purchasing the property in 1996,
Annick and Jean-Pierre Marie in-
vested time and effort with a series of
renovations. In 2001 they installed an
effluent treatment plant, to conserve
and reuse water. The winery also be-
gan converting its vineyards to sus-
tainable & organic farming in 2009.
With the help of viticulture master
Guillaume Levasseur, winemaker Oliv-
ier Pascaud and consultant Hubert de
Boüard, Cambon La Pelouse suc- 92. Oremus
ceeded in the challenging 2017 vin-
Gayraud. Gayraud took over from his in wooden vats as opposed to stain-
tage in weather that forced them to
work the vines based on the needs of grandparents in 1975 and today man- 93 less steel. These changes were made
each parcel. 13,333 cases made. ages the 70 acres of vines situated in to enhance the purity and expression
the westernmost parts of the Cahors CHÂTEAU PAVIE- of terroir and, in a cool vintage such
appellation. This wine is mostly Mal- DECESSE as 2017, it is especially noticeable
90 bec (90%) with Merlot (10%) sourced St.-Emilion 2017 within the wine’s freshness and in-
from vines located on the second, 97 | $127 | France tensity. 400 cases made.
SCHÄFER- third and fourth terraces in the Lot
Located on St.-Emilion’s limestone
FRÖHLICH Valley with clay and limestone soils.
Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG After vinification in stainless steel,
plateau, Pavie-Decesse started in
94
1885 as 8.6 acres carved out from
2018 60% of this wine was aged in con-
neighboring Château Pavie. Currently,
96 | $110 | Germany crete tank with the remaining 40% in KLINKER BRICK
it is under the leadership of Gérard
oak barrels. 7,000 cases made, 1,000 Grenache Blanc Lodi 2019
The Fröhlich family has been cultivat- Perse, who purchased the estate in
ing vines for over 200 years, but have
cases imported.
1997. (He purchased Pavie as well a 90 | $15 | California
reached new heights since Tim year later.) In recent vintages, the Don’t overlook Lodi as a reliable
Fröhlich took over in 1995. His pains-
92 technical team, directed by Laurent source for terrific wines. The area’s
110,000 acres of vineyards and 800
taking vineyard work and perfection- Lusseau, has been evolving the style
ist winemaking have made him one grapegrowing families (including
OREMUS of wine by minimizing the amount of
the six-generation Feltens of Klinker
of the benchmark producers for dry punching down and doing extraction
Furmint Tokaji Mandolás
Riesling in Germany. The estate’s 2018
Felseneck vineyard, rich in blue slate,
90 | $26 | Hungary
quartz and basalt, boasts 55-year-
Spain’s preeminent Bodegas Vega
old vines. To retain elegance in the
Sicilia recognized the potential for
hot 2018 vintage, Fröhlich kept more
dry white wines from Hungary’s
leaves, shading the grapes from di-
famed dessert wine region, Tokaji.
rect sunlight. He also fermented and
Oremus was founded by Vega Sicil-
aged partially in stainless steel to
ia’s Álvarez family in 1993; the inau-
preserve acidity, in addition to the
gural release of the vineyard-desig-
500-liter barrels he typically uses.
nated Mandolás label, made from
500 cases made, 56 cases imported.
100% Furmint, was the 2001 vintage.
Winemaker Andras Backsos tames
91 the variety’s intense acidity by care-
fully harvesting only fully ripe,
CHÂTEAU healthy grapes, fermenting in Hun-
LAMARTINE garian oak barriques (50% new) and
TOP: COURTESY OF VEGA SICILIA
stainless steel. Almost 8 months ag-

Malbec Cahors 2016
ing takes place in second through
90 | $20 | France
fourth passage Hungarian oak bar-
Founded in 1922, Château Lamartine riques. 9,900 cases made, 1,250
is today owned by winemaker Alain cases imported.
94. Klinker Brick’s Joseph Smith

THE TOP 100
Brick) have long been a quiet source oak barriques and bottled with mini-
of nearly 20% of wine made in Cali- mal sulfur. 900 cases made, 40 cases
fornia. Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau- imported.
vignon might dominate, but Lodi’s
many microclimates lead to a di-
verse patchwork of wines, like this 99
fresh, aromatic white. Winemaker
Joseph Smith and assistant wine- GRIFALCO DELLA
maker Christopher Rivera use grapes LUCANIA
from a vineyard called “Under the Aglianico del Vulture
Sea” in the Delta of the Lodi appella- Gricos 2017
tion, located under sea level. 750 90 | $20 | Italy
cases made. Fabrizio and Cecilia Piccin left Tus-
cany in 2004 to establish their win-
95 ery in southern Italy’s Basilicata re-

gion. They call their experience with
Tuscany’s Sangiovese-based wines
ALBERT MOROT “the perfect school” for the produc-
Beaune Cent-Vignes 2017 tion of wines from Basilicata’s Agli-
93 | $53 | France anico grape in a modern, accessible
Founded in 1820, the domaine style. The introductory Gricos, one of
passed through several generations four 100% Aglianicos in the winery’s
and branches of the family to the range, is a prime example. Brothers
current proprietor, Geoffroy Chop- Lorenzo and Andrea, in charge of the
pin de Janvry. It was his aunt, Fran- winery today, harvest grapes from
çoise Choppin, who ended négo- the younger vines of four different
ciant activities in 1984 to focus on vineyards, followed by fermentation
the production of wines entirely in stainless steel tanks and roughly
from the domaine’s 20 acres of six months aging in second-passage
vineyards. Though a dozen wines French and American oak. 4,500
are made at Morot, it’s the seven 95. Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry of Albert Morot cases made, 1,600 cases imported.
Beaune premiers crus that are the
jewels of the estate. Pure and struc- grapes at low temperatures for about
tured to age, they also reflect their 12 hours to preserve their aromatics,
mented with wild yeast, matured in a
mix of new and old oak, and stainless
100
origins, but most importantly with before fermentation and 5 months steel before blending. 5,000 cases
Burgundy today, represent terrific aging in stainless steel tanks. 7,000 made, 1,000 cases imported.
MORIC
value. 500 cases made, 125 cases cases made, 650 cases imported. Burgenland Hausmarke 2017
imported. 91 | $25 | Austria
98 Roland Velich founded Moric in 2001
97
96 ALAIN VOGE
with the goal of reviving the heritage
of Burgenland by focusing on Bur-
FOWLES Cornas Les Chailles 2017 genland’s native varieties. Fast-for-
TENUTA SAN Shiraz Victoria Ladies Who 94 | $55 | France ward 20 years, Velich has built a rep-
LEONARDO Shoot Their Lunch
utation as a Blaüfrankisch specialist
Wild Ferment 2018 Unlike most regions in France, the
Sauvignon Blanc and has inspired a whole new gener-
Vigneti delle Dolomiti Vette 90 | $35 | Australia Northern Rhône Valley enjoyed a
2018 near-seamless growing season in ation of winemakers. His Hausmarke
Winemaker Matt Fowles is obsessed is a blend, composed of 50%, Zwei-
90 | $22 | Italy with pairing wine with food—particu-
2017. Syrah lovers will find many
bright, seductive expressions at gelt, 30% Blaüfrankisch and 20%
The Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga fam- larly game—so he makes aromatic
accessible prices, and this cuvée Pinot Noir. Velich farms organically
ily first made northern Italy’s San wines with fresh acidity under the La-
from Alain Voge is a prime example. and his wines are always fermented
Leonardo their home nearly three dies who Shoot Their Lunch, Farm to
Alain Voge himself was a pioneer of using only native yeasts. 2017 was
centuries ago. But it wasn’t until the Table and Are You Game labels.
higher-altitude viticulture in Cornas, an outstanding vintage that gave
1980s that Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga Grapes for this wine come from the
who died this September at 81 after this “house wine” the ideal mix of
put this Trentino estate on the world high elevation (nearly 2,000 feet
an esteemed half-century career; fruit expression, complexity and
wine map, producing a flagship red above sea level), cool-climate Strath-
the Les Chailles is his appellation elegance. 200 cases imported.
from Bordeaux grape varieties. His bogie Ranges in Victoria. Enormous
bottling, sourced from organically
son Anselmo is CEO today, working ancient granite boulders peek out of
farmed parcels at the foot of Cornas’
with Carlo and longtime winemaker the soil, giving a hint of the decom-
granite slopes. The wine is also certi-
FLORE DERONZIER
Carlo Ferrini. The Vette, first launched posed granite and sandy clay loam
fied organic, vinified with natural
in 2012, is a recent addition to the below ground. Grapes were fer-
yeasts, aged 18 months in neutral
winery’s lineup. Ferrini macerates the

100 TOP VALUES
A year-end roundup of great wines
for $25 or less
D
uring this tumultuous year, we Whites, Rich Whites, Elegant Reds, Big Reds,
BY KEITH NEWTON
have all looked for comfort Rosé and Sparkling—and spans every corner of
wherever we can find it. Because the globe. All of the wines are rated 88 points or
of the emphasis on home due to higher, priced at $25 or less and made in large 79 Light Whites
the pandemic, it has been our closest family and enough quantities to be widely available. (Another
friends who we’ve relied on most to get us through. 22 wines in this year’s Top 100 also represent ex- 80 Rich Whites
There’s no better way to connect than with good ceptional value. See page 64 for a complete list.)
food and wine, making it as important as ever to Producers in both established and emerging
have affordable, go-to bottles we can count on. regions have made an ongoing commitment to 82 Elegant Reds
Yet being at home doesn’t mean we can’t try new delivering high quality wines at prices that allow
flavors, experience different cultures and expand for exploration. In the pages that follow, you’ll find 85 Big Reds
our senses. That’s another way that value-priced plenty of your favorites—from vivid Sauvignon
wines have been a source of pleasure this year, by Blancs to refined Pinot Noirs—but also less-famil- 86 Rosé
allowing us to travel the world from our kitchens. iar offerings. Even in well-traveled regions such as
The diverse selection in this year’s annual roundup Italy and Spain there are discoveries to be made.
of 100 top values covers six categories—Light All you need is a guide to show you the way. 86 Sparkling
TETRA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

LIGHT WHITES 89 $12 REAL COMPANHIA VELHA Douro White
Porca de Murça 2019 | PORTUGAL | Vibrant acidity
marks the honeysuckle, melon and lime zest notes of
this clean, light-bodied white, with details of spice,
C risp, refreshing whites are more popular than ever and producers around the world
have taken notice, delivering affordable examples from a range of grape varieties.
The move toward cooler-climate regions has helped to expand the category, yielding the
mineral, tangerine and flowers on the finish. (G.S.)
89 $14 ZACHARIAS Assyrtiko Péloponnèse
freshness and vibrancy necessary for this light-bodied style. Sauvignon Blanc continues to 2018 | GREECE | Sleek, lightly juicy acidity frames
flavors of Asian pear, ripe melon and grated ginger
offer outstanding versions from multiple regions, but there are other bright, sleek wines to
in this balanced, light-bodied white, underscored by
be found everywhere from Austria to Greece to Portugal. a minerally hint of pumice. (A.N.)
89 $15 MULDERBOSCH Sauvignon Blanc
93 $17 ALLAN SCOTT Sauvignon Blanc 90 $19 J. HOFSTÄTTER Pinot Grigio Vigneti
Stellenbosch 2018 | SOUTH AFRICA | This bright
Marlborough 2019 | NEW ZEALAND | This stylish delle Dolomiti 2018 | ITALY | Like biting into a ripe
white leans more toward stone fruit flavors, with
white is generous and intense, with vivid flavors of Gala apple, this light-bodied white is honeyed and
white peach, dandelion and sea salt notes streaking
lemon curd, apricot and lime sherbet, accented by crisp, with a lovely, zesty chime of stony minerality
along, showing hints of vanilla spice. (A.Z.)
green tea, white pepper and passion fruit. (M.W.) driving through to the creamy finish. (A.N.)
89 $16 ALSACE WILLM Riesling Alsace Réserve
92 $19 MASON Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 90 $19 SUAVIA Garganega Soave Classico
2017 | FRANCE | A bright, minerally and light-bodied
Yount Mill Vineyard 2019 | CALIFORNIA | Bright and 2018 | ITALY | Sleek and well-cut, this light- to medium-
white, with a creamy range of yellow plum, preserved
expressive, with vibrant Key lime, passion fruit and bodied white features a lively mix of passion fruit,
lemon, delicate spice, sage and petrol notes, followed
mango flavors that sing out with purity and intensity. Meyer lemon zest and green pear flavors, with a
by a clean-cut finish. (A.N.)
Lemon verbena and litsea oil notes linger. (M.W.) streak of petrol-laced mineral on the finish. (A.N.)
88 $11 QUINTA DE CABRIZ Dão White 2019 |
92 $20 CHAN DE ROSAS Albariño Rias Baixas 90 $21 COOPERATIVA VITIVINÍCOLA
PORTUGAL | Mineral and floral underpinnings flank
Cuvée Especial 2018 | SPAIN | Expressive and ener- AROUSANA Albariño Rias Baixas Paco & Lola
the creamy peach and cantaloupe flavors in this
getic, yet almost weightless, this breezes across the 2018 | SPAIN | Racy acidity energizes this vibrant
light- to medium-bodied white, with hints of honey
palate, with lime blossom, seashore, peach and chalk white, with leesy blanched almond, tarragon and
and spice on the finish. (G.S.)
notes, lively and harmonious. Graceful and long. (T.M.) briny notes that impart a succulent, savory character.
Lively and firm. (T.M.) 88 $16 SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG Grüner
91 $17 WAIRAU RIVER Sauvignon Blanc
Veltliner Kamptal Schlosskellerei 2018 | AUSTRIA |
Marlborough 2019 | NEW ZEALAND | Offers a precise 89 $11 FRISK Riesling Victoria Prickly 2019 |
Combining notes of yellow apple with tobacco leaf
and intense mix of ruby grapefruit, Meyer lemon and AUSTRALIA | Charming, crisp and intense, with
flavors, this well-knit white is silky in texture, with
lemongrass flavors, with lingering notes of poached mouthwatering candied green apple and peach
vibrant acidity and minerally elements that add com-
pear, passion fruit and green apple candy. (M.W.) flavors that are light and lively, showing touches of
plexity. Leaves a savory herbal hint on the finish. (A.Z.)
apple blossom and a bit of spritz on the finish. (M.W.)
91 $18 KUNDE FAMILY Sauvignon Blanc
Sonoma Valley Magnolia Lane 2019 | CALIFORNIA |
A savory thread of beeswax and a saline accent
emerge at the start of this wine, which evolves into
a lush, fragrant mix of peach, ripe melon, honeysuckle
and lemon curd flavors, set on a lush, juicy body. (M.W.)
Dear Dr. Vinny,
What are wine tasters trying to communi-
91 $20 TERENZUOLA Vermentino Colli di cate when they describe “texture”? For
Luni-Tuscany Fosso di Corsano 2018 | ITALY | This example, how is a wine “taut”?
intense white features petrol, apple pie and peach —Joseph, Bellport, N.Y.
aromas and flavors, with a thread of vibrant acidity.
Dear Joseph,
Harmonious, with a long, salty aftertaste. (B.S.)
Describing a wine’s flavors can be difficult.
91 $25 DOMAINE CHEVREAU Sancerre Les Describing its texture might be even more
Terres Blanches 2018 | FRANCE | Savory, with herbal challenging. But texture is an integral part of
and mineral notes behind white peach and grapefruit the best wines in the world, and winemakers
flavors. Well-balanced and complex, exhibiting great
employ a whole arsenal of techniques to create a desirable texture, from barrel-aging and lees con-
intensity and focus. (A.Z.)
tact to malolactic conversion, among others.
90 $12 BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS Verdejo Texture, which is sometimes referred to as “mouthfeel,” refers to the way the wine feels in your
Rueda 2019 | SPAIN | Floral and seaspray aromas are mouth. It can be smooth, coarse, creamy, waxy, velvety or silky. “Taut” is another way to describe
alluring in this lively, graceful white, with pear, herbal a wine that’s “firm” or “tight.” The term is neither a positive nor a negative on its own. I’d expect
and chalky flavors brightened by citrus acidity. (T.M.)
a light-bodied white wine with a high level of acidity to be taut, or a young red wine to show a lot
90 $13 ARONA Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough of firm tannins.
2019 | NEW ZEALAND | Intense and fragrant, with The texture comes from the balance of the elements in wine—alcohol, sugar, tannins and acidity.
orange blossom, green apple and mango flavors set If it seems a bit silly to discuss the texture of wine, think about how texture affects they way you
on a juicy, fleshy frame. The succulence and purity of appreciate food. Brie is creamy, while Parmigiano is crumbly. A filet mignon is more supple than a
the fruit core sets this apart. (M.W.)
chewy rib eye. Gelato is rich and unctuous while a sherbet is crisp.
90 $17 MAROTTI CAMPI Verdicchio dei Castelli Most people prefer carbonated soda to flat, or fresh, crunchy popcorn to stale. Sometimes tex-
TARA MOORE/GETTY IMAGES
di Jesi Classico Superiore Luzano 2018 | ITALY | A ture is what we do or don’t like about foods. Though the range of textures in wine might seem lim-
subtle streak of salinity underscores flavors of baked ited, it really can help distinguish one wine from other. It might even help explain what you like
peach, preserved lemon and almond biscotti in this about your favorite wines—or don’t like about others.
lightly creamy white. Fresh and balanced, with hints
—Dr. Vinny
of chamomile and spice on the finish. (A.N.)

RICH WHITES 90 $18 DIFFONTY & FILS Côtes du Rhône
White Cuvée du Vatican Réserve de l’Abbé 2018 |
FRANCE | Bright star fruit, fennel, white peach and
verbena notes race along, with a flash of lemon peel
T he secret to these richer-style whites is their ability to feature riper, juicier flavors
while showing enough bright acidity to give them intensity and structure. Chardon-
nay yields many expressive versions, but there are a number of other varieties capable of
checking in on the very lively finish. Grenache Blanc,
Clairette and Viognier. (J.M.)
producing the same balance of roundness and vibrancy. Many of the grapes with French 90 $18 DOMAINE BOUSQUET Chardonnay
Tupungato Valley Reserve 2019 | ARGENTINA |
origins, including Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Grenache Blanc, have found homes across
Vibrant and richly spiced, with hints of dried mint to
the New World, in California, Australia and South Africa. the concentrated green apple and ripe citrus flavors.
Buttery hints arrive on the creamy finish. (K.M.)
93 $21 CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD Bordeaux White Le 90 $14 YALUMBA Viognier South Australia The
90 $18 NIK WEIS ST.-URBANS-HOF Riesling
G 2018 | FRANCE | Showy, with peach, nectarine and Y Series 2019 | AUSTRALIA | Generous and fragrant,
Mosel From Old Vines 2018 | GERMANY | Off-dry
apricot notes that evoke Sauternes, though the palate with flavors of orange blossom, melon, pear and ripe
and inviting, with an exotic profile, featuring dried
is dry, harnessed by bitter orange and almond accents. peach that are succulent, refined and refreshing. (M.W.)
mango, candied orange peel and cardamom notes.
Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. (J.M.)
90 $16 TANIA & VINCENT CARÊME Terre Brûlée Ample acidity holds everything together. (A.Z.)
93 $25 ARNAUD LAMBERT Saumur White Le Blanc Swartland 2019 | SOUTH AFRICA | This
89 $12 VIÑA SANTA CAROLINA Chardonnay
Bréze Clos de Midi 2019 | FRANCE | This offers an has a seductive texture that coats the palate, offering
Leyda Valley Carolina Reserva 2018 | CHILE | This
expressive mix of yellow apple, persimmon and Meyer a mineral grip that supports yellow plum and melon
white is creamy and well-spiced, offering white fruit
lemon flavors infused with hazelnut and smoke. The notes, with spice and floral accents. Chenin Blanc. (A.Z.)
and spice flavors that lengthen out nicely. Ends with
acidity is electric, giving this plenty of verve. (A.Z.)
90 $17 CHÂTEAU DE TRACY Pouilly-Fumé a plush, juicy finish. (K.M.)
92 $19 BODEGAS GODEVAL Godello Valdeorras Mademoiselle de T 2018 | FRANCE | On the riper side
89 $13 BODEGAS LAS CEPAS Rioja White
2018 | SPAIN | This bold white has a rich texture, but still focused, this white offers an expressive profile
Dominio de Laertes 2018 | SPAIN | Distinctive ,
backed by firm acidity. Pear and passion fruit flavors of citronella, yellow apple and gooseberry jam, with
with a deep gold color and a fleshy texture. Ginger
are supported by ginger, mineral and spice notes. well-integrated acidity in the background. and a nice
and burnt caramel notes frame quince, roasted pear
Shows a tropical character, yet remains focused. (T.M.) lingering herbal element on the finish. (A.Z.)
and brioche flavors. Generous, with enough acidity for
92 $21 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT Bordeaux White 90 $17 D’ARENBERG Viognier-Marsanne balance. Maturana Blanca and Sauvignon Blanc. (T.M.)
2018 | FRANCE | An unctuous white, with creamed McLaren Vale The Hermit Crab 2018 | AUSTRALIA |
89 $21 JEAN-CLAUDE & CHRISTOPHE PICHOT
peach and nectarine notes that stay fresh throughout, Effusive, juicy and ripe, with peach, apricot and melon
Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette 2019 |
laced with orange blossom and bitter almond accents. flavors that are generous and plump. Floral and spice
FRANCE | Shows nice richness, offering creamy red
Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. (J.M.) notes emerge on the finish. Shows terrific harmony
pear, yellow apple and fig flavors, with vibrant acidity
and persistence. (M.W.)
92 $22 CAMBRIA Chardonnay Santa Maria and a juicy, lively finish. A true crowd-pleaser. (A.Z.)
Valley Katherine’s Vineyard 2018 | CALIFORNIA |
Lithe and powerful, featuring a vibrant core of apple
and peach pastry flavors, with dried tropical fruit
accents. Buttery midpalate, with a plush finish. (K.M.) Dear Dr. Vinny,
91 $20 ARTESA Chardonnay Los Carneros What’s the difference between “terroir,”
“appellations” and “AVAs”?
2017 | CALIFORNIA | Focused, with flavors of Gala —Chuck, Celina, Ohio
apple, pear and apricot that feature lithe tropical
accents. Flinty notes show on the finish, revealing Dear Chuck,
spicy and toasty details. (K.M.) I love this question. All of these terms reflect the
idea that where grapes are grown is important,
91 $24 ROBERTO ANSELMI Veneto White San
Vincenzo 2018 | ITALY | Aromatic, with chive blossom but each of them has a distinct meaning.
and ginger notes, this creamy white layers a streak The broadest of these three is terroir, derived
of salinity and racy acidity with expressive flavors from the French word for earth, “terre.” It trans-
of star anise, ripe melon and pink grapefruit sorbet. lates loosely as “a sense of place,” and it’s the idea that a wine’s character is influenced by where
Garganega, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. (A.N.) its grapes were grown—in other words, that wine can express the sum of dozens of variables, in-
91 $24 CAROL SHELTON Coquille Blanc Paso cluding soil, climate, topography and even bacteria. The concept of terroir can be applied to cof-
Robles 2018 | CALIFORNIA | Complex and charming, fee, chocolate, tea, beef and cheese—anything that’s influenced by where it’s grown or raised.
with Meyer lemon, ripe honeydew melon, chamomile An appellation is a legally defined geographic area. At a minimum, an appellation on a bottle
and marzipan flavors on a plump frame. Shows plenty of wine lets us know where the grapes come from. But each country has different rules for their
of restraint, finishing with a fresh thread of acidity. designations: Many European appellations, for example, dictate not just geographic boundaries
Grenache Blanc blend. (M.W.) but also which grapes are permitted and even certain vineyard and winemaking practices. There
90 $13 CASAS DEL BOSQUE Sauvignon Blanc can’t be any Pinot Noir in a bottle of Bordeaux, and you won’t find any Merlot in a Burgundy.
Casablanca Valley Reserva 2019 | CHILE | A plush AVA is the abbreviation for American Viticultural Area, the U.S. version of an appellation. As
white, with juicy energy to the ripe apple, pear and with appellations in other countries, it takes a lot of work to get an AVA officially recognized—pe-
HANS-PETER MERTEN/GETTY IMAGES
gooseberry flavors. Creamy midpalate, leading to a titioners must prove that the region is distinctive and has relatively uniform terrain, soil and cli-
finish that lingers with dried green herbal notes. (K.M.) mate, and the boundaries must be agreed upon. AVAs, however, do not restrict what types of
90 $13 HUSCH Chenin Blanc Mendocino 2018 | grapes can be grown nor how the wines must be made. AVAs and appellations can also nest within
CALIFORNIA | This lip-smacking version offers a mix one another, for instance the Oakville AVA is located within the larger Napa Valley AVA.
of ripe peach and melon flavors that are fleshy and —Dr. Vinny
bright, finishing with a touch of dried guava. (M.W.)

ELEGANT REDS 90 $15 ICARDI Barbera d’Asti Tabaren 2018 |
ITALY | This expressive red features intense aromas
and flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and pome-
granate, singed by earth and graphite. (B.S.)
T hese medium-bodied reds perform a delicate balance, offering complexity and depth
to their flavors while maintaining freshness and harmony. Italy and Spain each
showcase the diversity that’s possible in this category, from darker fruit profiles to earthier
90 $16 BODEGAS ORDOÑEZ Montsant Zerran
2016 | SPAIN | This lively red delivers bright, fresh
styles evoking wild herbs and tobacco. Pinot Noir is often defined by its refinement and flavors of cherry, berry and vanilla, accented by
fresh herb and floral notes. Garnacha blend. (T.M.)
finesse, yet a number of interesting blends make their appearance here as well, including
supple examples from Washington and New Zealand. 90 $18 PEDRONCELLI Merlot Dry Creek Valley
Bench Vineyards 2017 | CALIFORNIA | This is well-
structured, with a firm backbone of acidity to the dried
93 $20 BODEGAS BERONIA Rioja Reserva 91 $14 CUNE Rioja Crianza 2017 | SPAIN | This
dark currant, dark cherry and dried berry flavors. (K.M.)
2015 | SPAIN | This round, juicy red is fresh and lively, lively red shows depth and energy, with bright berry
with black cherry, tangy plum, leafy, toast and vanilla and cherry flavors mingling with herb, cocoa and toast. 90 $20 MAISON L’ENVOYÉ Morgon Côte du Py
flavors mingling over moderate tannins and orange Focused and harmonious. Tempranillo blend. (T.M.) 2018 | FRANCE | This bright red offers a creamy mix of
peel acidity. Bright and accessible. (T.M.) ripe raspberry, peach and currant notes accented by
91 $17 CASTELLO DI ALBOLA Chianti Classico
aromatic rose petal, tangerine zest and spice. (G.S.)
93 $25 CAIAROSSA Toscana Pergolaia 2015 | 2016 | ITALY | Shows ripe cherry, plum and strawberry
ITALY | Expressive and complex, offering black cherry, flavors, with fine harmony. A lingering finish echoes 90 $21 TASCA D’ALMERITA Etna Tenuta
black currant, violet, wild herb, iron and tobacco aro- the fruit, adding earth, tobacco and iron notes. (B.S.) Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2016 | ITALY | An elegant red,
mas and flavors, with vibrant acidity delivering a long balanced and fresh, featuring sculpted tannins that
91 $25 ARTESA Pinot Noir Los Carneros 2017 |
finish. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (B.S.) frame flavors of crushed plum and cherry fruit. (A.N.)
CALIFORNIA | Refined flavors of dried cherry, red cur-
92 $21 CASA EMMA Chianti Classico 2017 | rant and plum tart are flanked by touches of membrillo 90 $22 L’ECOLE NO. 41 Frenchtown Columbia
ITALY | Shows terrific Sangiovese character, with and ample toasty notes. (K.M.) Valley 2018 | WASHINGTON | Supple and vibrant,
black currant, black cherry, graphite, leather and offering expressive red currant, violet and spiced cinna-
91 $25 CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE Cahors Cuvée
leafy tobacco aromas and flavors, displaying purity. mon flavors, with polished tannins. Merlot blend. (T.F.)
Particulière 2016 | FRANCE | Elegant, with currant
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera. (B.S.)
and raspberry flavors woven with menthol, cured 89 $16 MARYHILL Winemaker’s Red Columbia
92 $22 CRAGGY RANGE Te Kahu Gimblett meat and floral notes, backed by solid freshness. (G.S.) Valley 2016 | WASHINGTON | Supple and elegant,
Gravels Vineyard Hawkes Bay 2018 | NEW ZEA- with pretty cherry, rose petal and orange peel accents
91 $25 INNOCENT BYSTANDER Pinot Noir
LAND | A sophisticated red, with lingering notes that linger. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. (T.F.)
Central Otago 2018 | NEW ZEALAND | Perfumed
of cardamom, blueberry and cedar. Fragrant and
notes of dried lavender, green tea, white pepper and 89 $17 A.A. BADENHORST FAMILY Secateurs
balanced on the finish. Merlot blend. (M.W.)
fresh loamy earth add an air of elegance to this. (M.W.) Red Swartland 2016 | SOUTH AFRICA | A ripe red,
92 $22 QUERCIABELLA Maremma Toscana with notes of mulberry, dark cherry and chocolate.
91 $25 ROCO Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Mongrana 2018 | ITALY | Ripe and polished, this red Lively and well-balanced. Syrah blend. (A.Z.)
Gravel Road 2018 | OREGON | Tightly focused, this
offers plum, black cherry, licorice and spice flavors.
offers polish and structure, with layered raspberry and 88 $13 CASTLE ROCK Pinot Noir Mendocino
Vibrant and harmonious, with a lingering aftertaste.
cherry flavors, laced with stony mineral notes. (T.F.) County 2018 | CALIFORNIA | Sleek, with savory rich-
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (B.S.)
ness to dark cherry, currant and raspberry flavors. (K.M.)
Wine Styles Around the World

This map charts the main wine styles from major winegrowing regions FRANCE
BORDEAUX LOIRE BURGUNDY RHÔNE
GERMANY
CHILE
UNITED PORTUGAL SPAIN ITALY
STATES
WASHINGTON
NEW
ARGENTINA ZEALAND
CALIFORNIA
SONOMA OREGON
KEY
NAPA SOUTH AFRICA
LIGHT WHITES
RICH WHITES AUSTRALIA
CENTRAL COAST
ELEGANT REDS
BIG REDS

BIG REDS 90 $12 ALTA VISTA Malbec Mendoza Vive 2019 |
ARGENTINA | Lusciously spiced, with concentrated
red currant, raspberry and cherry tart flavors that
show notes of slate and flint. The supple finish is
B old flavors and rich textures define these powerful reds, which deliver as much ripe-
ness and concentration as possible, while still maintaining focus and balance. Warmer
regions tend to deliver the most riveting examples, allowing grapes such as Malbec in Ar-
filled with chocolate and cream. (K.M.)
90 $15 BODEGAS EGO Jumilla Goru Verde
gentina, Shiraz in Australia, Zinfandel in California and Grenache in the Southern Rhône 2018 | SPAIN | Black cherry, plum and cocoa flavors
mingle in the round, juicy texture of this red, with
to reach their full potential. The flavor-packed reds of Portugal throw their weight around
smoky and earthy notes adding a savory character.
with distinctive versions from the country’s Dão and Douro regions. Lively acidity and firm tannins give this focus. (T.M.)
90 $15 BROTTE Cairanne Création Grosset 2017 |
93 $17 GUILLAUME GONNET Châteauneuf- 91 $15 BODEGAS BORSAO Campo de Borja
FRANCE | Silky and refined in feel, with gently mulled
du-Pape Bel Ami 2018 | FRANCE | Ripe, forward Berola 2016 | SPAIN | This red is thick yet fresh, fruit-
cherry and plum notes that glide along, picking up
and open-knit, with a burst of steeped cherry and centered but with savory elements for balance, with
light flashes of anise and black tea along the way.
raspberry fruit backed by light sandalwood and blackberry, currant, licorice, cocoa and loamy earth
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. (J.M.)
garrigue accents, with an echo of shiso leaf adding flavors. In the modern style. Grenache blend. (T.M.)
freshness and cut at the end. Grenache blend. (J.M.) 90 $19 BOAS QUINTAS Dão Fonte do Ouro
91 $15 PENDULUM Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserva 2017 | PORTUGAL | This shows good density
93 $20 BODEGAS RESALTE DE PEÑAFIEL Columbia Valley 2018 | WASHINGTON | Sleek, yet
and freshness, delivering ripe black cherry and red
Ribera del Duero de Restia Crianza Selected shows simmering potency in the background, with
plum flavors marked by sweet spice and mountain
Harvest 2015 | SPAIN | Floral and spice box aromas expressive blackberry, mocha and cinnamon flavors
herb elements. Touriga Nacional blend. (G.S.)
are enticing, with lively black cherry, orange peel, black building structure toward fine-grained tannins. (T.F.)
tea and mineral following through. Polished tannins 90 $20 KLINKER BRICK Syrah Lodi Farráh 2016 |
91 $15 VIÑA HARAS DE PIRQUE Cabernet
and lively acidity keep this focused and balanced. (T.M.) CALIFORNIA | An appealing briary note accents the
Sauvignon Maipo Valley Hussonet Gran Reserva
blackberry and smoked pepper flavors in this snappy
92 $17 VOLVER Alicante Tarima Hill Old Vines 2018 | CHILE | Voluptuously spiced, with plum tart,
red. Rich and polished, with a bright finish. (T.F.)
2017 | SPAIN | This bold red features a thick, rich tex- cherry pastry and raspberry flavors that are well-knit.
ture, with ripe, heady flavors of currant and blackberry Creamy midpalate, ending with chocolate notes. (K.M.) 90 $20 MCPRICE MYERS High On The Hog
preserves, backed by cocoa, espresso and loamy earth Central Coast 2017 | CALIFORNIA | Bold and zesty,
91 $17 CONCHA Y TORO Carmenère Peumo
notes. Harmonious, in a full-throttle style. (T.M.) with lively black raspberry, bitter chocolate and
Serie Riberas Gran Reserva 2018 | CHILE | Svelte
licorice flavors that build muscle toward broad-
92 $18 GOLDSCHMIDT Zinfandel Alexander and focused, with fine-grained tannins supporting
shouldered tannins. Grenache blend. (T.F.)
Valley Fidelity Nick Goldschmidt Railyard 2018 | the fresh-crushed plum, cardamom and dark cherry
CALIFORNIA | This Zin is supple and sleek, offering flavors. The finish lengthens out nicely. (K.M.) 90 $20 QUINTA DO CRASTO Douro 2018 |
polished, multilayered fruit, with raspberry and toasty PORTUGAL | Red plum and raspberry fruit is infused
91 $20 FAMILIA ZUCCARDI Malbec Uco Valley
spice flavors that glide on the lasting finish. (T.F.) with violet and anise accents, framed by moderate
Q 2019 | ARGENTINA | This rich version offers a deep
tannins that show finesse. Offers nice energy and
92 $20 FIRST DROP Shiraz Barossa Mother’s well of cherry, dark plum and wild herb flavors that
freshness, ending with spice and mineral notes. (G.S.)
Milk 2018 | AUSTRALIA | Rich and juicy in flavor, with are matched to crisp acidity, with a finish that lingers
maraschino cherry, red licorice and fresh raspberry with cedar and slate. (K.M.) 90 $21 ALTO DE CASABLANCA Pinot Noir
puree notes up front, plus matcha, dried lavender, Casablanca Valley Ritual 2017 | CHILE | A svelte
91 $20 PENLEY Cabernet Sauvignon Coon-
star anise and fresh tobacco hints that linger. (M.W.) and juicy red, with a concentrated core of raspberry
awarra Phoenix 2018 | AUSTRALIA | A firm red, with
and cherry flavors backed by rich acidity. The well-
92 $22 CHÂTEAU LA VIEILLE CURE Fronsac savory details of loam and toasted herbs adding bass
spiced finish shows hints of smoked paprika. (K.M.)
2017 | FRANCE | This is packed with plum and black- notes to the dense and muscular body of cassis, wild
berry compote flavors, supported by graphite and blackberry and plum flavors. (M.W.)
smoldering tobacco notes. Everything melds through
the toasty, solidly structured finish. Merlot blend. (J.M.)
A Guide to Food-and-Wine Pairing

FROM LEFT: ALEXANDER SPATARI/GETTY IMAGES; DAVE G. HOUSER/GETTY IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES (2)
OYSTERS LOBSTER ROAST CHICKEN STEAK
GO SAUVIGNON BLANC CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR CABERNET SAUVIGNON

TO
Assyrtiko (Greece) Chenin Blanc (South Africa) Barbera (Italy) Malbec (Argentina)
OR Grüner Veltliner (Austria) Grenache Blanc (California) Beaujolais (France) Shiraz (Australia)
TRY Soave (Italy) Viognier (Australia) Rioja (Spain) Zinfandel (California)

ROSÉ
T he traditional rosé appellations of France, Spain and Italy have always produced a
delicious array of styles at very affordable prices. Now, with the whole world think-
ing pink, producers across the globe are trying to match those classic examples in both qual-
ity and value. California and Washington, in particular, are producing a stream of vibrant,
refreshing versions from grapes such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.
91 $20 LES VIGNERONS DE TAVEL Tavel Les 89 $13 MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES Rioja Rosado

Lauzeraies 2019 | FRANCE | Big and bracing, with 2019 | SPAIN | Bright, firm and savory, with herbal
racy edges to the mix of cherry, bitter plum and blood and briny notes framing berry, cherry and watermelon
orange flavors. Stony minerality frames the finish. (J.M.) flavors. Tempranillo and Garnacha Tinta. (T.M.)
90 $22 ETXANIZ TXAKOLINA Getariako 89 $15 MARTIN RAY Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Txakolina Rosado Txomin Etxaniz 2019 | SPAIN |
Lightly spritzy, with a sea breeze aroma weaving
Rosé 2019 | CALIFORNIA | Vibrant and supple, with
floral strawberry and orange zest accents. (T.F.) Dear Dr. Vinny,
through blood orange and pink grapefruit flavors. Why are red wine grapes fermented with
89 $17 JOEL GOTT Rosé Central Coast 2019 |
Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza. (G.S.) the grape skins but white wine grapes
CALIFORNIA | Zesty and refreshing, with jammy rasp-
aren’t?
90 $22 GRACI Etna Rosato 2018 | ITALY | There’s berry and strawberry flavors laced with orange zest —Marshall, Kingston, Pa.
a lovely creaminess to the delicate flavors of nectarine, and rose petal notes. Grenache blend. (T.F.)
white cherry and lemon thyme in this pale rosé, with a Dear Marshall,
89 $18 SEVEN HILLS Rosé Dry Columbia Valley
tangy streak of stony mineral on the lively finish. (A.N.) Grape skins are a source of tannins, phe-
2019 | WASHINGTON | This lovely rosé shows struc-
nols and color pigments in wine. You’re
90 $23 GÉRARD BERTRAND Languedoc ture and refinement, with orange peel, watermelon
correct that the production of a typical
Rosé Hampton Water 2019 | FRANCE | A creamy and apricot accents. Cabernet Franc blend. (T.F.)
white wine involves separating the white
rosé, with hints of richness to the ripe melon and
89 $20 CHÂTEAU DE BERNE Côtes de Provence wine grape juice from the solids of the
tangerine flavors Grenache blend. (G.S.)
Rosé Inspiration 2019 | FRANCE | Juicy acidity marks
crushed grapes (and fermenting just the
89 $12 BODEGAS BRECA Vino de España Rosé the elegant tangerine, white blossom and cantaloupe
juice), while red wines go through macer-
2019 | SPAIN | A smooth minerality marks the creamy flavors of this creamy rosé, with accents of spice, anise
ation, when the crushed grape solids
white raspberry, ripe white peach and tangerine zest and mineral. Grenache blend. (G.S.)
(skins, stems, seeds) are allowed to steep
flavors of this supple and engaging rosado. (G.S.)
in the juice for a period of time, imparting
color, flavor and texture.
SPARKLING
In addition to red wine, rosé is also pro-
duced through maceration. Red grapes are
crushed, and the juice is allowed to sit in
contact with the skins, as in red wine pro-
T he production of sparkling wine is as labor-intensive as winemaking gets, yet that

hasn’t stopped vintners from turning out affordable options in a range of styles. Italy
and Spain have long been leaders in keeping quality high and prices low, yet California has
duction. After several hours or days, but
before fermentation, some or all of the
juice is drained from the skins, transferred
come on strong in recent years in delivering bright, flavorful examples. to a new tank and fermented sans skins.
The juice is able to pick up some of the pig-
90 $20 EL CEP Brut Cava Gelida Gran Reserva 89 $19 DOMAINE CHANDON Brut California NV | ments, phenols and tannins from the skins,
2015 | SPAIN | Apricot and tangerine flavors are set on CALIFORNIA | An easygoing sparkler, with appealing
but not to the extent of a red wine.
the fine mousse of this expressive Cava, with pastry honeysuckle, apple and roasted nut tones. (T.F.)
The reason that winemakers don’t use
cream, toasted almond and candied ginger hints. (A.N.)
89 $20 ROTARI Brut Rosé Trento 2014 | ITALY | the skins to make most white wines is that
90 $21 LOUIS POMMERY Brut California NV | A lively rosé, with a delicate mousse carrying flavors doing so would add characteristics that
CALIFORNIA | Steely and vibrant, this combines of black currant, apricot and blanched almond. (A.N.) they (and wine drinkers) don’t usually
the best of Old and New World styles, with fresh
89 $25 CONTADI CASTALDI Brut Franciacorta want in a white wine, such as tannins or
lime, kiwifruit and blanched almond flavors. (T.F.)
NV | ITALY | Lightly creamy and fresh, this is Francia- darker color, and the wine would no longer
90 $25 DECOY Brut California Cuvée NV | corta in an aperitif style, offering notes of white cherry, have that crisp and refreshing character
CALIFORNIA | Snappy and fresh, with layered and candied lemon zest, anise and toast point. (A.N.) that so many white wines provide.
steely lemon and orange zest flavors accented by There’s another category, however,
88 $16 LINI ORESTE & FIGLI Lambrusco Emilia
floral vanilla notes. (T.F.)
Rosso Labrusca 910 2019 | ITALY | This aromatic called skin-contact wines that are made
90 $25 JOSEP MARIA RAVENTÓS I BLANC sparkling red is fresh and balanced, offering flavors from white grapes. They’re often referred
Brut Blanc de Blancs Vino Espumoso 2017 | SPAIN | of crushed blackberry and black cherry. (A.N.) to as “orange wines,” because the added
Sleek and finely knit, with flavors of crunchy green color of the skins lends the wines a cop-
88 $19 GRUET Blanc de Blancs American NV |
pear, salted almond and dried white cherry. (A.N.) pery appearance. Not only their color but
RACHEL WEILL/GETTY IMAGES
NEW MEXICO | A brisk and refreshing sparkler, this

89 $18 CANTINA MONTELLIANA Extra Dry offers tart apple and lemon verbena accents that also their textures and flavors can be a
Asolo Prosecco Superiore 57 NV | ITALY | Subtle, finish on a vibrant note. (T.F.) worthwhile learning experience.
with crisp acidity married to delicate notes of Anjou —Dr. Vinny
pear, blanched almond and blood orange sorbet. (A.N.)

Harvest arrives at the Uco
Valley vineyards of Clos de
los Siete, under the shadow
of the Andes Mountains.
W COMEBACK KID
AFTER A STRING OF TOUGH VINTAGES FOR ARGENTINA, THE 2017
MALBECS SHOW POWER AND REFINEMENT • BY KIM MARCUS
W
hen you’re in the mood for a big, full-flavored Mendoza, the heartland of Argentine Malbec. Yet the fruit that
Argentine Malbec, no other wine can compare. did mature featured small berries with thick skins, yielding flavor
Just in time for the holiday season, the top wines in spades. The lower density of grapes on the vines also meant that
from the 2017 vintage have arrived, and they are more sunlight was able to reach them to spur ripening.
an impressive group. Leading producers such as Viña Cobos, Bo- Since my previous report (“Malbec’s New Heights,” Dec. 31,
dega Catena Zapata, Matervini, Familia Zuccardi and Corazon del 2019), I have reviewed more than 225 Argentine wines in blind
Sol all rated highly, which undisputedly puts an end to the recent tastings at our Napa office. Fully 69 of the 85 wines that rated 90
run of suboptimal vintages. points or higher are varietal Malbecs or Malbec-based blends,
In contrast to the rain-plagued 2014, 2015 and 2016 vintages, underscoring the central role the grape plays in the country’s
each of them worse than the last, the 2017 vintage was dry and pantheon. Bottlings from 2017 dominate the top-scorers, but there
GUSTAVO SABEZ MICO
cool, which proved to be a double-edged sword. The season saw a are still a number of notable wines from other vintages, most
severe spring frost that resulted in the second-smallest crop in the impressively François Lurton’s stunning 2015 Piedra Negra Cha-
past 50 years—mostly because of poor fruit set, or “shatter,” in cayes, which earns the No. 8 ranking this year in Wine Spectator’s

Top 100. (For more on this
wine, see page 44.)
L
eading the pack are
three classic-rated
2017 Malbecs from
Viña Cobos, whose founder
and owner is California-
based vintner Paul Hobbs.
The top spot belongs to the
Los Árboles Bramare Cha-
ñares Estate (96 points,
$100), a refined version
filled with unctuous dark
fruit flavors, which comes
from a high-density, high-
elevation vineyard that is
farmed organically. At just
a notch below, two bot-
tlings at 95 points comple-
ment each other nicely:
The Perdriel Bramare At Mendoza winery Corazon del Sol, pioneering vintner Santiago Achával works with winemaker Cristian Moor to produce outstanding
Marchiori Estate ($100) is Malbecs from the estate’s Los Chacayes vineyards, along with some of Argentina’s top-rated bottlings of Cabernet Franc.
a sculpted, vibrant and
minerally red, while the La Consulta Bramare Rebon Estate ($100) makers of Stolichnaya vodka and other spirits). At Matervini,
is elegant and fine-grained. founded in 2008 with partner Roberto Cipresso, the emphasis is
Hobbs explains that, beginning with 2017, he revamped his on exploring distinctive terroirs in Mendoza and beyond.
vineyard and cellar program to promote a stylistic shift toward Their refined and complex Mendoza Piedras Viejas El Challao-
brighter and fresher-tasting wines. With a new winemaker, Andres Las Heras 2017 (96, $150) comes from one of the highest vineyards
Vignoni, and a new vineyard manager, Facundo Impagliazzo, at his in Mendoza, at nearly a mile above sea level, and is planted on a
side, Hobbs is making some of the most vibrant Malbecs around, hillside rich with limestone. This is only the wine’s fourth harvest,
with remarkable structure and purity of flavor. Achával notes, boding well for the future.
“Every aspect of what we do was re- “I think this vineyard will be our defin-
tooled,” Hobbs explains. “Key areas of ing vineyard,” he says. “It’s very quickly
focus in the winery included refinement PARAGUAY adding multiple dimensions to its struc-
CHILE
of fermentation and press management Salta ture, its fruit, its freshness. It already is
tain Range
practices, and élevage in barriques saw clearly something different from the rest
decreases in toasting, [with] reduction in • CAFAYATE
of Mendoza—even of Argentina. A new
ARGENTINA
new French oak.” viticultural frontier.”
Other than the spring frost, Hobbs The sumptuous Matervini Malbec
un
Mo
says, conditions were ideal for much of Luján de Cuyo Finca Perdriel 2017 (95,
y
es
ua
the ’17 season. “2017 was splendid, par- La Rioja $90) stands as a counterpoint to the Las
And
ug
ticularly the harvest months—dry with Heras in its provenance. Filled with old
Ur
Luján
de
very cool nights, [which] yielded wines de Cuyo

vines up to 80 years old, the vineyard was
Río
with good acidity and bright fruit. How- Mendoza hit by a devastating hailstorm in 2015,
URUGUAY
ever, that all came to an abrupt end April Achával says, that destroyed as much as
BUENOS
AIRES +
15, when the heavens delivered three Uco 90% of the grapes on the vines, with the
consecutive days of rain, jeopardizing all Valley canes still in recovery during the 2017
Rí
unharvested fruit, mostly Cabernet Sau- o growing season.
Rí
Co
o
lo
Sa
vignon.” (Malbec is one of the earliest- ra

do “Finca [Perdriel] had a lower produc-
lad
ripening of Bordeaux’s red varieties.) tion per plant than normal, compounding
o
Vying for top honors are the Matervini Río the shatter from the cold spring,” he
Ne
wines of Santiago Achával, who helped gr explains. “To make a long story short, we
o
N
to reset the equation for Argentine wine had few bunches of tiny berries—and the
Patagonia
ANDRÉA JONHSON
0 miles 300
in the late 1990s with the bold, intense Atlantic quality was out of this world.”
Malbecs he made under his Achával- Ocean Laura Catena, managing director of her
Ferrer label (now owned by S.P.I. Group, family-owned Bodega Catena Zapata, has

TASTING REPORT | ARGENTINA
Owned by California-based Paul Hobbs, Viña Cobos makes highly rated Malbecs from multiple appellations across Mendoza, including one of the year’s top-scorers.
also helped put Argentina on the world stage. The top-scorer from Rounding out the classic ratings is the Alta Vista Alto Mendoza
Catena, the Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae 2017 (95, 2013 (95, $85), a big, rich and well-spiced version. Aged four years
$140), continues Malbec’s stylistic evolution in Argentina, with in bottle to let the flavors knit fully, the wine also includes 20%
whole-cluster fermentation used for 40% of the must. The result Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend for added structure.
is a powerful version, with savory hints to the blend of red and dark
O
fruit flavors, supported by firm acidity and fresh tannins. utside of the top tier, there are a number of wines that show
“We realized that Malbec behaves more like Pinot Noir than Cab- exceptional quality for the price. The highest-rated among
ernet Sauvignon,” Catena says. “With Malbec, which has naturally them is the Familia Zuccardi Uco Valley José Zuccardi 2016
soft tannins, long macerations can cause loss of fruit aromas and are (94, $45), which also earns a place on this year’s Top 100 list, at
not necessary for softening tannins or increasing texture. To increase No. 56 (see page 68). Showing explosively fruity aromas and fla-
texture, we use punch-downs and whole-cluster fermentation.” vors that are filled with creamy richness, this version is quite an
Rating Red Wine Vintages in Argentina

2019 91–94 Slightly cooler than normal weather yields wines with concentrated flavors; vintners report a crop that’s a bit NYR
smaller than 2018, with young wines showing remarkable intensity
2018 90–93 Nearly ideal growing conditions deliver well-structured wines that feature fine-grained tannins and ripe fruit flavors; NYR
harvest yields return after a series of short vintages
2017 92 A return to characteristically dry weather delivers intensely flavored grapes, but yields are low due to a spring frost; Drink or hold
refined, terroir-driven Malbec-based wines, especially in prime districts in the Uco Valley
2016 84 Lower-alcohol and higher-acidity wines dominate in another cool, wet vintage, with dramatically lower yields in Drink or hold
Mendoza and Salta. The best are fresh and juicy
2015 85 A wetter growing season than 2014, with botrytis rot in some vineyards, hitting Cabernet Sauvignon the hardest; Drink
better for white wines
2014 87 Late-season rains proved challenging for vintners; diligent work in the vineyards resulted in some high quality Drink or hold
releases; Salta succeeded
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not recommended˜Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are
yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

Bramare Chañares Estates 2017

(93, $100). Other top versions in-
clude Casarena’s ripe and concen-
trated Agrelo Lauren’s Vineyard
2017 (92, $30) and Zolo’s juicy
and refined Mendoza Reserve
2018 (90, $20). (The number of
high-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon
is sparse this year because the
grape has suffered in the recent
spate of cool-weather vintages.)
There are also a handful of
whites worth trying, led by Char-
donnay and the aromatic grape
Torrontés. Standout Chardonnay
bottlings include Domaine Bous-
quet’s vibrant and richly spiced
Tupungato Valley Reserve 2019
(90, $18) and Luca’s luscious
Tupungato G Lot 2019 (90, $35),
Familia Zuccardi winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi has refined the winemaking methods at his family’s leading Mendoza winery to with creamy apple and baked pear
produce powerful, fruit-filled Malbecs without excessive oak. flavors. The top-scoring Torrontés
is the Bodega Colomé Calchaquí
achievement from such a problematic vintage. Valley 2019 (88, $15), showing gooseberry and lemon-lime flavors,
Winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi fermented the José Zuccardi in while the Zolo Mendoza 2020 (86, $11) is spicy and crisp.
cement vats for the fullest expression of its fruit, blending in 5% For the adventurous, Sémillon is worth the search. The outstand-
Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and minimized the influence of ing El Enemigo Mendoza 2018 (90, $28) is ripe and plump, with
oak by aging the wine for two years in large 2,500-liter French oak white fruit flavors that show characteristic notes of beeswax.
barrels called foudres.
L
“I love foudres because you have less micro-oxygenation than a ooking ahead, there’s more good news on the way regarding
barrel and less impact of the oak,” Zuccardi says. “For me, Malbec vintage performance. In 2018, there were no major frost or
doesn’t like too much micro-oxygenation during aging.” The tech- rain events, and the growing season featured warm days and
nique of micro-oxygenation can soften tannins, but also lead to a cool nights, with production almost returning to normal levels.
lessening of fruit flavors, a process aided by the greater surface area The 2019 vintage was a little cooler than 2018, with a slightly
of oak to wine in smaller barrels. smaller crop, and the just-completed 2020 vintage saw extremely
Other full-flavored, well-priced Malbecs include Altocedro’s rich dry weather.
and creamy La Consulta Old Vine Reserve 2018 (92, $32); 55 Mal- Many vintners are excited by the concentrated flavors shown in
bec’s lithe and juicy Zaha Toko Vineyard El Corte Paraje Altamira the young 2018s and 2019s. The first releases from both vintages,
2017 (92, $30); Bodega Piedra Negra’s ripe and spicy Los Chacayes which are hitting the market now, are included in this report.
Reserve 2018 (91, $18); Familia Zuccardi’s rich Uco Valley Q 2019 “The great news is that after 2017, Mendoza has had back-
(91, $20); Bodega Catena Zapata’s suave and well-spiced Lunlunta to-back excellent years in 2018, ’19 and ’20,” says Achával. “It is
Old Vines 2018 (91, $22); Clos de los Siete’s Uco Valley 2017 (91, debatable which year is better.”
$20), a Malbec-based blend with a tensile frame; and Luca’s focused For Zuccardi, that would be 2019: “[It] was for me the best
Paraje Altamira 2018 (91, $25), from a prime terroir. harvest that I’ve ever done. It was dry and fresh, with a perfect
It doesn’t stop there. Malbec’s bench is deep with values, all scor- ripeness. And 2020 was again warmer like 2017, but with higher
ing 90 points and costing less than $20. Look for the Alta Vista yields in the vineyard, so the ripening was more balanced.”
Mendoza Vive 2019 ($12), Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Valley Like other winemaking nations, Argentina has struggled in this
Eva 2018 ($17), Finca La Celia Uco Valley Pioneer 2018 ($15) year of the pandemic. Internal travel is extremely restricted, and
and TintoNegro Uco Valley 2018 ($17). only trucks carrying essential goods are allowed to cross provincial
Beyond Malbec, I have been impressed by the performance of borders. The airport in Mendoza, serving a province of almost 2
the country’s Cabernet Franc–based wines, which feature focused million people, was even closed for part of the fall.
red fruit flavors, with green herbal shadings, that are varietally cor- For now, it’s time to relish what the country’s winemaking bounty
rect. Leading the way again is Viña Cobos, with its Los Árboles has to offer. Argentina is back in the running after a rough patch,
delivering top-notch Malbecs from 2017, with plenty of promise
FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST from the vintages that follow.
Get scores and prices for more than 225 wines reviewed
for this report WineSpectator.com/ArgentinaAlpha123120 Senior editor Kim Marcus is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the wines
of Argentina.


Buying Guide
The peaks of Monviso glow in the sunset above Piedmont’s Langhe hills, where snow blankets the Nebbiolo vineyards of wintertime Barolo.
Spectator Selections New Wines From Special Report

99 Highly Recommended Around The World 123 2020 Top 100
99 Collectibles 102 Argentina, Australia,
100 Smart Buys Austria BY THE NUMBERS
101 Best Values 104 France The Dec. 31 – Jan. 15 Buying Guide features
38 classic wines and nearly 350 outstanding
100 About the Buying Guide 110 Israel, Italy wines from among reviews of more than 550
116 Portugal, South Africa, new releases. Members can access tasting
ISTOCK PHOTO/GETTY IMAGES
Spain notes and scores for those wines, along with

hundreds of additional wines reviewed since
118 California our last issue, using the Wine Ratings search at
WineSpectator.com.
122 Oregon, Washington

S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended Collectibles
The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes Wines that will improve most from additional
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
purchases based on their combination of score, gain in value.
price and availability.
95 Cascina Chicco Barolo Rocche di

Castelletto 2016 $80 ITALY An attractive mix
of rose, cherry, menthol and spice aromas and flavors are
the hallmarks of this balanced red, which features a
solid foundation of vibrant acidity and dense tannins, plus
a lingering aftertaste of cherry, iron, tar and spice. Best
from 2023 through 2045. 3,500 cases made, 750 cases
imported.—B.S.
97 Méo-Camuzet Richebourg 2017 $1,750
FRANCE A taut, defined version, featuring cherry,
97 Domaine St.-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Collection Charles Giraud 2018 $131 FRANCE
Intense, with a Turkish coffee note out front before the
raspberry, sandalwood, vanilla and green olive aromas and
flavors. This is compact and dense, with a lingering after-
core of steeped plum, black cherry and fig fruit starts to taste of sandalwood and oak spice. The complexity and
unfurl, while extra hints of singed alder, garrigue and length indicate future potential. Best from 2022 through
warm earth develop, adding length and range on the fin- 2036. 12 cases imported.—B.S.
ish. Delivers muscular power and perfumed grace that
work together perfectly. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.
Best from 2022 through 2040.—J.M.
95 Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson

Valley L’Ermitage 2012 $75 CALIFORNIA
This has a great nose, bursting with blood orange, candied
ginger and lemon peel aromas, with hints of marzipan,
leading to steely and mature flavors that linger delicately
on the spicy finish. Nicely combines freshness and matu-
rity. Drink now. 518 cases made.—T.F.
96 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2018 $109 FRANCE A very refined, silky style,
with subtle bitter cherry, damson plum and raspberry cou-
lis notes racing through, flanked by garrigue and sandal-
wood notes and ending with graceful rooibos tea and
mineral threads. This offers understated luxury. Grenache,
97 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 2016 $90 ITALY
Alluring aromas of cherry, rose and graphite settle
into a core of cherry and strawberry fruit, with nuances
Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through
2038. 2,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.—J.M.
of iron, tobacco and tar. Sleek, yet intense and complex,
unfolding effortlessly through the long finish. Best from
2023 through 2047. 500 cases made.—B.S. 94 Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley 2012 $70
CALIFORNIA Impeccably focused and structured,
with distinctive lemon verbena and strawberry accents
that take on petrol, fresh ginger and mineral elements,
finishing on a steely note. Drink now through 2021. 1,400
cases made.—T.F.
96 Vietti Barolo Brunate 2016 $175 ITALY

Graceful and focused, displaying rose, strawberry,
cherry and eucalyptus flavors, this red also reveals a solid
spine of tannins on the finish, showing terrific energy and
freshness. Balanced, yet needs a few years to find its stride.
Best from 2023 through 2043. 304 cases made, 73 cases
96 Matervini Malbec Mendoza Piedras
Viejas El Challao-Las Heras 2017 $150
ARGENTINA Powerful, refined and complex, with expres-
imported.—B.S.
sive violet and rose petal notes to the concentrated red

plum, dark currant and wild cherry flavors. Shows peppery
hints midpalate, with a finish loaded with French roast
and slate. Drink now through 2027. 127 cases made, 80
cases imported.—K.M.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS:
Collectibles / Smart Buys
About the Buying Guide

T his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are
provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained
below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of addi-
tional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below.
Thomas Matthews
Kim Marcus
Spain
California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile 95 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2016
$155 ITALY Pretty cherry, strawberry and floral
aromas and flavors are shaded by underbrush, iron and
James Laube California
tobacco notes in this chewy red. A wall of tannins puts a
Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany strong grip on the finish, but give the fruit the benefit of
James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port the doubt. Best from 2024 through 2048. 265 cases
MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand imported.—B.S.
Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace
Tim Fish
Gillian Sciaretta
California Zinfandel and other reds, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines
France, Israel, Portugal, Spain
Smart Buys
Aleks Zecevic Austria, Germany, Loire Valley, South Africa Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
prices and that are broadly available.
How We Do the Tastings
Wine Spectator editors taste more than 16,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York and
Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.
All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights
organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type
of wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine
previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the
blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two
sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings.
Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments
may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed.
Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs

Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the
91 La Crema Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma
County 2019 $25 CALIFORNIA Mouthwatering,
with a vibrant mix of lime sherbet, ripe melon, candied
first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected ginger and lemongrass flavors on a smooth and juicy frame.
reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in Drink now. 13,716 cases made.—M.W.
a more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not
represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.
Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that
represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.
Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest
potential to gain in value.
Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.
Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.
About Prices and Wines Tasted

Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.
90 Antinori Chardonnay Umbria Bramìto
della Sala 2019 $22 ITALY This medium-
bodied white is enlivened by tangy acidity, offering an
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there. expressive range of steeped peach, kumquat, candied
ginger and lime blossom. Snappy and well-balanced, with
About the 100-Point Scale a salty, mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2023.
Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on 10,000 cases imported.—A.N.
potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality;
the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character.
95–100 Classic: a great wine
90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine
75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
50–74 Not recommended

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys / Best Values
89 Ernesto Catena Cabernet Sauvignon

Mendoza Tahuan 2018 $17 ARGENTINA Dark
91 Dry Creek Fumé Blanc Sonoma County
2019 $16 CALIFORNIA This crisp, intense white
offers notes of green apple, lime zest and fresh grated gin-
currant and luscious blackberry flavors are backed by firm ger, with plenty of lemon verbena, showing Meyer lemon
acidity and fresh tannins. Plush midpalate, with a creamy and tangerine flavors at the core. Impressive for its clarity
and well-spiced finish. Drink now through 2023. 4,000 and mouthwatering finish, on a sleek frame. Drink now.
cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—K.M. 29,000 cases made.—M.W.
89 Domaine Chandon Brut California NV $19

CALIFORNIA This easygoing sparkler is a delight to
90 Alta Vista Malbec Mendoza Vive 2019
$12 ARGENTINA Lusciously spiced, with concen-
trated red currant, raspberry and cherry tart flavors that
sip, with appealing honeysuckle, apple and roasted nut feature notes of slate and flint. The supple finish is filled
tones, ending with a brisk finish. Drink now. 350,000 cases with chocolate and cream. Drink now through 2023.
made.—T.F. 50,000 cases made, 14,418 cases imported.—K.M.
Best Values
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide
distribution.
90 Bodega Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Rueda

2019 $14 SPAIN Floral and sea spray aromas are
alluring in this lively, graceful white, with pear, herbal
and chalky flavors brightened by citrus acidity. Expres-
sive. Drink now through 2024. 12,000 cases made, 3,000
92 Bodegas Aragonesas Garnacha Campo
de Borja Coto de Hayas Centenaria 2018
$16 SPAIN Rich and velvety, this red is big but gentle,
cases imported.—T.M.
with raspberry jam, cherry pie and vanilla flavors that

caress the palate. Well-integrated tannins give subtle
structure, while citrusy acidity keeps this fresh. Harmoni-
ous, in a ripe, fruit-centered style. Drink now through
2026. 5,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—T.M.
400,000+ WINE RATINGS

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SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Best Values / New Releases: Argentina
a long finish that echoes with sanguine and minerally ac- 89 Argento Malbec Mendoza Finca Altamira
cents. Drink now through 2026. 450 cases made, 200 cases Single Vineyard 2018 $40 Vibrantly fruity and redo-
imported.—K.M. lent of blueberry pastry and raspberry tart that are backed
94 Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Cobos 2017 by medium-grained tannins. Toasty finish has sandalwood
$400 Focused, pure-tasting and powerful, with notes hints. Drink now through 2023. 2,000 cases made, 500
of black licorice to the dense, concentrated mix of dark cases imported.—K.M.
fruit, Asian spice and baker’s chocolate flavors. Hints of 89 Matervini Malbec Salta Valles Calchaquíes
black pepper accent the firm, savory finish. Drink now Antes Andes 2017 $65 Rich, jammy style with red
through 2026. 300 cases made.—K.M. raspberry and spiced cherry flavors that feature cedary
94 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Nosotros accents. Fresh and minerally on the finish. Drink now
Single Vineyard Nomade Gualtallary Uco Valley through 2023. 315 cases made, 180 cases imported.—K.M.
2015 $115 Intensely fruity, with vibrant acidity to the 89 Matervini Tinto Chacayes Uco Valley 2017
concentrated blueberry, red currant and plum flavors that $40 Fresh and crunchy, with lots of iodine notes to the
feature plenty of inky accents. Shows toasty notes on the
88 Hacienda Lopez de Haro Rioja Crianza
2017 $13 SPAIN Cherry and berry flavors mingle
with herbal, anise and vanilla notes in this juicy red, which
Asian spice–filled finish. Drink now through 2026. 200
cases imported.—K.M.
dried red currant and berry flavors. Smoky accents emerge
on the crisp finish, with savory elements. Malbec and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 486 cases made, 200 cases
is bright and fresh, with lively acidity and light tannins imported.—K.M.
keeping it focused without heaviness. Drink now through 93 Matervini Malbec Canota
2023. 150,000 cases made, 4,157 cases imported.—T.M. Valley Antes Andes 2017 $45 88 Dominio del Plata Malbec Uco Valley Susana
Lively, finely textured dried rasp- Balbo Signature 2018 $24 Bacony hints to the dried
berry and brambly flavors show berry and roasted cherry flavors. Toasty notes envelop the
hints of rooibos tea. This is unctu- finish, with plenty oakiness. Drink now. 6,800 cases
ously ripe midpalate, with a long imported.—K.M.
finish that offers wet sandstone
accents. Drink now through 88 Tapiz Malbec Uco Valley Alta Collection
2025. 486 cases made, 200 cases ROBERTO CIPRESSO San Pablo Vineyard 2018 $20 Zesty and filled with
Co-founder & macerated red cherry and berry flavors. The bright, spicy
imported.—K.M. Winemaker
finish is back by tight tannins. Drink now. 7,000 cases
imported.—K.M.
92 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza
Alta 2017 $60 Well-structured, with a fine-grained 87 Zolo Malbec Mendoza 2019 $12 Zesty red
texture to the lively mix of dried red berry and spice fla- fruit and berry flavors show flinty hints, with light spice
vors, followed by slate and floral hints on the crisp finish. and savory accents on the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases
Drink now through 2025. 12,500 cases made, 5,500 cases imported.—K.M.
87 Man Vintners Syrah Coastal Region
Skaapveld 2018 $12 SOUTH AFRICA This
mouthfilling red has vibrant acidity, with a juicy core of
imported.—K.M.
85 Tapiz Malbec Mendoza 2019 $15 Cherry tart
currant, violet and tobacco notes. Balanced and approach-
92 Viña Cobos Malbec Uco Valley Bramare and wild berry flavors are juicy in this medium-bodied
Zingaretti Estate Villa Bastías 2017 $100 Svelte, version, with toasty oaky notes on the finish. Drink now.
able, with moderate length. Drink now. 6,000 cases with medium-grained tannins backing concentrated plum 10,000 cases imported.—K.M.
imported.—A.Z. tart and roasted dark cherry flavors that offer hints of dried
beef. Bright herbal notes fill the ripe finish. Drink now 85 Tapiz Malbec Mendoza Made with Organic
Grapes 2019 $15 Bright, with red cherry and rasp-
New Wines From Around the World through 2025. 500 cases made.—K.M.
berry flavors that are fresh and direct. Light spiciness on
92 Bodega Rolland Yacochuya Cafayate Valley the finish. Drink now. 1,300 cases imported.—K.M.
2011 $75 Powerfully ripe, with a plush texture and
ARGENTINA filled with plum compote, dark currant and raspberry
Malbec ganache flavors that feature accents of tea and savory ARGENTINA
spice. Leafy notes on the fresh finish. Drink now through Other
96 Viña Cobos Malbec Los Árboles Bramare 2024. 5,800 cases made, 200 cases imported.—K.M.
Chañares Estate 2017 $100 Vibrant, refined and
92 Tapiz Malbec Uco Valley Black Tears San
93 Viña Cobos Cabernet Franc Los Árboles
filled with unctuous dark plum, blackberry and dark cur- Bramare Chañares Estates 2017 $100 This is well-
rant supported by velvety tannins. Cooking spices notes Pablo Vineyard 2015 $65 Luscious and well-spiced, structured, with firm acidity backing the concentrated
are deeply ingrained, with a long, lilting finish that is filled with concentrated raspberry and wild cherry flavors backed dark fruit flavors that carry loam accents. Refined notes
with cream and dark chocolate accents. Drink now by vibrant acidity. Tobacco leaf accents on the savory fin- of dried green herbs provide offer a bright contrast, and
through 2027. 500 cases made.—K.M. ish. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases imported.—K.M. linger into the spicy finish. Drink now through 2025. 500
96 Matervini Malbec Mendoza Piedras Viejas 91 Viña Cobos Malbec Uco Valley Bramare 2017 cases made.—K.M.
El Challao-Las Heras 2017 $150 See Highly Rec- $42 Burnished red, with fine texture to cherry tart and 93 Viña Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Perdriel
ommended, page 99. dried cherry flavors that are well-structured. Cedar and Bramare Marchiori Estate 2017 $100 Firm and
sandalwood notes on the plush, creamy finish. Drink now filled with deep well of lusciously spiced dark plum, cherry
95 Viña Cobos Malbec La Consulta Bramare through 2025. 1,200 cases imported.—K.M. tart and blackberry flavors that feature accents of fresh-
Rebon Estate 2017 $100 Elegantly styled, with san-
dalwood notes to the fine-grained dried raspberry, plum 91 Matervini Malbec Cafayate Valley Alteza crushed green herbals. Bittersweet chocolate on the fin-
2017 $90 Explosively fruity, with big and bold cherry ish. Drink now through 2026. 500 cases made.—K.M.
and red currant flavors, backed by fresh acidity and tan-
nins. Minerally lifted on the long, lush and well-spiced and berry flavors that are filled with fresh acidity and lively 93 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso
finish that feature hints of rooibos tea. Drink now through minerality. White pepper notes on the lithe finish. Drink Single Vineyard Agrelo 2018 $45 Big and rich, with
2026. 500 cases made.—K.M. now through 2025. 225 cases made, 100 cases unctuous dark berry, plum tart and cherry pastry flavors
imported.—K.M. that are lavishly spiced. Hints of dried green herbs on the
95 Viña Cobos Malbec Perdriel Bramare
91 Mendoza Vineyards Malbec Mendoza structured finish that offers hints of anise. Cabernet Sau-
Marchiori Estate 2017 $100 Sculpted red, layered vignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink
with raspberry, plum and dark currant flavors supported R&B Richard & Bernard Single Vineyard 2017 $125
Burnished red fruit and cooking spice flavors are supported now through 2026. 450 cases imported.—K.M.
by vibrant acidity and tannins. Minerally in the midpal-
ate with a finish that lingers with notes of fresh crushed by zesty acidity and firm tannins in this red, whose min- 92 Viña Cobos Volturno Mendoza 2017 $230
green herbs and savory spice. Drink now through 2026. erally richness lingers into the finish with cocoa powder Sleek and filled with minerally accents to dried berry and
500 cases made.—K.M. accents. Drink now through 2024. 1,500 cases made, 750 cherry flavors. White pepper notes on the midpalate, with
cases imported.—K.M. a fresh, savory finish that offers dried tarragon accents.
95 Matervini Malbec Luján de Cuyo Finca
90 Alta Vista Malbec Mendoza Vive 2019 $12 Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Drink
Perdriel 2017 $90 Sumptuous dark cherry, red cur- now through 2024. 200 cases made.—K.M.
rant and dried raspberry flavors are supported by crunchy See Best Values, page 101.
acidity. There are plenty of toasty notes midpalate, with

New Releases: Argentina / Australia / Austria
90 Viña Cobos Cocodrilo Corte Mendoza 2018 88 Hope Estate Sémillon Hunter Valley Michael 93 Prager Riesling Smaragd Wachau Ried
$30 This juicy red is loaded with cooking spice accents Hope 2012 $28 Savory, with grated ginger, beeswax, Klaus 2018 $75 An expressive, electrifying white,
to its lively mix of dark fruit, red berry and mineral fla- lanolin and a touch of wasabi mingling with searing acid- with a lovely crunch to the texture and loads of mulled
vors. The creamy finish is supported by medium-grained ity, lemon curd and limeade notes. Drink now. 800 cases spice, coriander, apple and crisp peach flavors. Shows
tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and made, 228 cases imported.—M.W. incredible focus and precision, but this is still a bit youth-
Merlot. Drink now through 2024. 8,750 cases made, 1,300 ful to show its full potential, with a long, lip-smacking
cases imported.—K.M. 86 Hope Estate Sémillon Hunter Valley finish. Excellent expression of the elegant side of Austrian
Wollombi Brook 2017 $15 Lemon-lime, pineapple Riesling. Best from 2023 through 2035. 330 cases made,
89 Ernesto Catena Cabernet Sauvignon Men- and pear flavors are fresh and juicy, with hints of herb and 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
doza Tahuan 2018 $17 See Smart Buys, page 101. fresh ginger on a crisp frame. Drink now. 2,000 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—M.W. 93 Prager Riesling Smaragd Wachau
89 Lamadrid Cabernet Sauvignon Agrelo Single Wachstum Bodenstein 2018 $75 A subtle wine,
Vineyard Reserva 2018 $20 Juicy red fruit and black more about texture, depth and harmony than in-your-
licorice flavors show lively savory notes, followed by a AUSTRIA face flavors. The floral, peach and mineral notes match
fine-edged finish that has plenty of rich, loamy accents. seamlessly with the suave texture and racy character of
Drink now through 2023. 4,500 cases made, 2,400 cases 94 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau this Riesling, which builds in intensity to the long, citrus-
imported.—K.M. Ried Achleiten 2018 $75 This stunning example infused finish. Fine and graceful. Try now with food, or
impresses as soon as it hits the palate, with a firm back- wait. Drink now through 2033. 440 cases made, 50 cases
86 Alta Vista Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza bone of acidity supporting rich apple, persimmon and imported.—A.Z.
Vive 2019 $12 Fresh and savory, with dried red berry daisy flavors full of savory spice notes. Shows beautiful
and cherry flavors supported by taut acidity. Bay leaf harmony throughout, with a mouthwatering finish. Deli-
accents on the finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases made, 878 cious now, but will only get better. Best from 2022 through
cases imported.—K.M. 2032. 550 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
86 Zolo Torrontés Mendoza 2020 $11 Spicy
and crisp, with savory, aromatic accents to the gooseberry
and preserved citrus flavors. Snappy finish. Drink now.
2,500 cases imported.—K.M.
85 Bodega Amalaya Torrontés-Riesling Salta
2020 $10 Lemon zest notes accent fresh-cut white
fruit and spice flavors, with a crunchy finish. Torrontés
and Riesling. Drink now. 1,100 cases imported.—K.M.
AUSTRALIA
91 Tyrrell’s Sémillon Hunter
Valley Vat 1 2015 $65 This
offers a succulent, waxy mix of
lemon curd, resin, lanolin and Key
lime flavors, with a thread of saline
and touches of honey and spice.
Intense and vibrant, with a mouth-
watering finish. Drink now through
2030. 3,000 cases made, 200 cases BRUCE TYRRELL
imported.—M.W. Managing Director
91 Yeringberg Yarra Valley 2017 $90 Notes

of eucalyptus, tobacco, black tea and cedar are dark and
concentrated, with black licorice, spiced plum and dark
chocolate notes that sing in harmony on the finish. The
tannins are plush and velvety. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab-
ernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink now
through 2035. 50 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Tyrrell’s Sémillon Hunter Valley HVD Single
Vineyard 2014 $47 Intense, with grassy notes and
herbal overtones of lemongrass, lemon verbena and a touch
of lanolin on a medium body. Makrut leaf and candied
ginger notes linger on the fleshy finish. Drink now through
2030. 2,500 cases made, 250 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Yeringberg Chardonnay Yarra Valley 2018
$50 Apple, peach and citrus flavors are bright and juicy
on a sleek frame, with details of white flowers and orange
zest on the finish, a touch of sweet cream emerging. Drink
now. 50 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Yeringberg Shiraz Yarra Valley 2017 $80
Distinctive, with a thread of bright minerality. Toasted
chicory, espresso and cumin add complexity to the cherry,
plum and cassis flavors, firming up on the finish. Drink
now through 2030. 50 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Tyrrell’s Sémillon Hunter Valley 2019 $23
Vibrant and mouthwatering, with lemon and grapefruit
Saint-Estèphe’s best-kept secret.
flavors, a touch of ripe Bartlett pear and dried ginger on L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, À CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION
the finish. Drink now through 2030. 6,000 cases made,
2,500 cases imported.—M.W.

New Releases: Austria / France
92 Dorli Muhr Carnuntum 91 Domaines Dominique Piron Morgon Côte 87 Maison L’Envoyé Fleurie Château Vivier
2017 $24 Very perfumed and du Py 2018 $35 Glossy and focused, with cherry and 2018 $20 Zesty, with herb-tinged wild raspberry and
floral, turning to blackberry and cas- raspberry notes showing nice purity and accents of anise, currant fruit flanked with smoke and peppery details. Light
sis in flavor, married to a supple, granite and white pepper. Dusty earth and dried herb notes tannins show some grip, with tea and mineral elements
silky texture. The tannins are ripe offer a savory touch through the lightly tannic finish. on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 600 cases made,
and well-integrated, but it’s the Drink now through 2026. 3,600 cases made, 700 cases 600 cases imported.—G.S.
acidity that gives this firmness, imported.—G.S.
freshness and charm. Blaufränkisch
87 Louis Jadot Beaujolais 2019 $13 Graphite-
and Syrah. Drink now through
90 Albert Bichot Fleurie La Madone 2018 $31 tinged black cherry and currant fruit is fresh and snappy,
DORLI MUHR This bright red offers cherry and raspberry notes detailed with savory spice details and herb elements rounding out
2025. 50 cases imported.—A.Z. Owner & Winemaker
with dried herb, white pepper and woodsy accents. A firm, the crisp, lightly tannic finish. Drink now. 22,000 cases
tangy acidity keeps focus through the grippy, mineral-laced imported.—G.S.
90 Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Kremstal Stein finish. Nice energy. Drink now through 2025. 770 cases
2018 $28 Pure and vivid, offering suave texture and made, 200 cases imported.—G.S. 87 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2019 $14
a bit more body, with notes of lanolin, apricot and orchard Glossy cherry and raspberry notes are bound by a supple,
blossom. Lively acidity keeps everything intact and 90 Louis Jadot Morgon Château des Jacques tangy acidity in this spicy red. Elements of dried herb and
lends length. A touch of spice emerges on the long finish. 2017 $26 A broad Gamay with glossy, supple layers of mineral weave together on the lightly tannic finish. Drink
Best from 2022 through 2027. 420 cases made, 100 cases mocha-tinged blackberry and currant edged with smoke, now through 2023. 60,000 cases imported.—G.S.
imported.—A.Z. savory spice and mineral accents. With refined, light tan-
nins, this is marked with licorice, clove and dusty earth 86 Albert Bichot Beaujolais-Villages Château
89 De La Rosa Grüner Veltliner Burgenland notes on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 650 cases de Varennes 2018 $13 Fresh brambly fruit flavors are
Taryag Organic 2018 $15 Very floral and musky, with imported.—G.S. mixed with spice, herb and mineral notes in this tangy,
notes of litchi and blood orange leading the way, and spice light-bodied red. Light, integrated tannins. Drink now.
flavors that turn dry and minerally. Long, enticing finish. 90 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des 2,900 cases made, 1,700 cases imported.—G.S.
Try with food. An odd but tasty expression. Drink now Jacques Clos du Grand Carquelin 2017 $38 Rich
through 2023. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 112 flavors of blackberry ganache and cherry reduction mark 86 Château de Corcelles Gamay Vin de France
this plump, medium-bodied red. Details of licorice, floral Les Copains d’abord Le Premier Soir 2018 $18
cases made, 112 cases imported.—A.Z.
and mineral fill the toasty finish. Moderate tannins. Drink A peppery, light-bodied red, with black cherry and tangy
89 Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Kremstal Ried now through 2025. 70 cases imported.—G.S. blackberry fruit edged with mocha and graphite details.
Weinzierlberg 2019 $25 Elegant, precise and flavor- Light, glossy tannins encase the black tea and herb
ful, with a lovely interplay of talc, savory mineral and 89 Vignobles Bulliat Morgon Nature 2019 $25 notes on the finish. Drink now. 1,200 cases made, 500
peach. Nicely balanced, with acidity taking over on the Light-bodied, with a round mouthfeel offering raspberry cases imported.—G.S.
finish, leaving a mouthwatering impression. Best from 2022 and peach notes that are marked with floral accents.
through 2026. 850 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.Z. Notes of spice and herb fine-tune the finish. Light tan- 86 Domaines Dominique Piron Beaujolais Blanc
nins. Drink now through 2024. 1,500 cases made, 850 2019 $21 Pear blossom and apple notes are fragrant
89 Stadt Krems Riesling Kremstal 2019 $18 cases imported.—G.S. and fresh in this supple white. Hints of spice and mineral
Racy version, with notes of crisp apple and peach upfront, dovetail on the clean finish. Drink now. 2,000 cases made,
while spice and mineral notes linger in the background. 89 Vignobles Bulliat Moulin-à-Vent Roche Noire 350 cases imported.—G.S.
Good length and balance. Drink now through 2024. 1,700 2019 $20 Elegant, with nice purity to raspberry, peach
and orange zest flavors that are enhanced with floral and
cases made, 364 cases imported.—A.Z.
mineral details in this light-bodied red. Hints of tea, herb FRANCE
88 Huber Grüner Veltliner Austria Vision 2019 and licorice mingle on the finish. Drink now through Burgundy / Bourgogne
$17 White pepper and thyme notes accent the orchard 2025. 2,700 cases made, 950 cases imported.—G.S.
fruit flavors in this easy-drinking version. Shows good bal-
89 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des
90 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Réserve
ance and moderate length. Drink now. 20,000 cases made, 2019 $28 Smoky cherry, spice and fresh earth flavors
10,000 cases imported.—A.Z. Jacques 2017 $26 Woodsy spice notes envelope the mark this fruity, harmonious red. The silky texture, fine
wild raspberry and currant flavors of this tangy, compact balance and nice length make this very enjoyable now.
86 Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner Kremstal 2019 red, with anise, herb and cedar flavors lining the focused Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases imported.—B.S.
$16 This shows a good amount of floral, spice and cit- and grippy finish. Drink now through 2024. 1,200 cases
rus aromas and flavors. It’s light in body, has fine acidity imported.—G.S. 90 Maison Chanzy Bourgogne Les Fortunés
and a clean, fresh finish. Drink now. 5,900 cases made, 2018 $26 This focused red is linear in profile, offering
3,905 cases imported.—A.Z. 88 Vignobles Bulliat Beaujolais-Villages Bibine cherry, raspberry, spice and floral notes. Supple and bal-
2019 $20 Fresh, light-bodied red with bright cherry anced, with a firm, tactile finish that shows nice length.
and raspberry flavors backed by a tangy acidity and un- Drink now through 2024. 3,750 cases made, 1,008 cases
FRANCE derpinnings of anise, mocha and floral that linger through imported.—B.S.
Beaujolais the herb-tinged finish. Light tannins. Drink now. 3,800
cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—G.S. 90 Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Cuvée Étienne
93 Albert Bichot Moulin-à-Vent Rochegrès 88 Vignobles Bulliat Morgon Le Colombier 2019
Camuzet 2018 $52 Dark fruit flavors of black cherry
Domaine de Rochegrès 2018 $60 Medium-bodied, and black currant are enhanced with licorice and earth
$20 Elegant, with a delicately crafted profile marked accents in this fleshy red. It’s bright and succulent, with
with open-knit layers of rose petal, licorice-tinged cherry with tangy raspberry and peach notes underscored with
and raspberry flavors that are infused with clove and va- a lingering aftertaste of fruit and spice. Drink now through
mineral, spice and floral aromas. Light, supple tannins. 2024.—B.S.
nilla details. Supple tannins show nice integration through Drink now through 2024. 5,500 cases made, 3,500 cases
the long, mineral-infused finish. Delicious. Drink now
through 2028. 550 cases made, 60 cases imported.—G.S.
imported.—G.S. 89 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne White
Réserve 2019 $28 Ripe fruit flavors of peach and
92 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des
88 Maison L’Envoyé Moulin-à-Vent Terre de Thé melon are framed by vanilla and buttery pastry notes in
2018 $20 Blackberry and dried currant notes have a this white, which shows fine balance. A floral hint emerges
Jacques Clos des Thorins 2017 $40 This Gamay savory-driven edge with dried herb, savory spice and
is elegantly textured, with a concentrated profile offering as this winds down on the lingering finish. Drink now.
leather accents. Elements of anise, mocha and black tea 3,000 cases imported.—B.S.
raspberry gelée, orange zest and cherry notes backed by linger through the lightly tannic finish. Drink now
woodsy spice, anise and herb accents. Bright acidity gives
this energy through the lengthy finish. Drink now through
through 2024. 600 cases made, 600 cases imported.—G.S. 89 Louis Jadot Bourgogne 2018 $22 Black
cherry and black currant aromas and flavors permeate this
2026. 60 cases imported.—G.S. 87 Albert Bichot Moulin-à-Vent Domaine de smooth red, with accents of smoke and autumn woods
Rochegrès 2018 $60 A brooding Gamay, with dried
91 Château du Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent blackberry, mocha and leather notes that are matched
adding depth as this cruises to the lingering finish. Drink
Couvent des Thorins 2018 $30 The light tannins now. 30,000 cases imported.—B.S.
with spice, licorice and herb details, ending with a smoky
are beautifully textured and encase vivid raspberry and
currant flavors matched with woodsy spice, licorice and
finish. Drink now through 2023. 550 cases made, 60 cases 88 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Réserve
imported.—G.S. 2018 $28 A rich, juicy style yet with good underlying
floral details. Undertones of mineral and spice sail through
structure supporting its cherry, black currant and spice
the tangy finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,000 cases
flavors. It ends with a chalky feel. Drink now through
made, 500 cases imported.—G.S.
2024. 3,000 cases imported.—B.S.

New Releases: France
88 Chanson Père & Fils Bourgogne 2018 $25 94 Champy Mazis-Chambertin 2018 $550

This generous red offers black cherry and blackberry fruit Intense graphite, black cherry, pomegranate, violet and
allied to a silky texture. The vibrant structure keeps this spice aromas and flavors converge with dense tannins in
well-defined and long. Drink now through 2024. 2,500 this red. It’s feral in character, with a load of mineral and
cases imported.—B.S. spice on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2038. 20 cases
imported.—B.S.
88 Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne 2019
$17 A ripe style, verging on tropical fruit flavors of 94 Lucien Le Moine Clos de Vougeot 2017 $450
mango and pineapple, with lemon and baking spice A lithe, refined red, this features black currant, pomegran-
accents chiming in on the mouthwatering finish. Drink ate, stone and toasty oak flavors aligned with a lean, in-
now. 7,500 cases imported.—B.S. tense frame. It’s saturated and balanced in its youthful
way, with a firm, dense finish. Long aftertaste echoes the
87 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes fruit, mineral and spice notes. Best from 2022 through
2018 $23 Cherry, strawberry and earth flavors are set 2043. 30 cases imported.—B.S.
against firm chalky tannins in this sinewy red, with a
smoky finish. Drink now through 2024. 12,700 cases made, 94 Méo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot 2018 $440
3,000 cases imported.—B.S. Pure and juicy cherry, blackberry, violet and earth flavors
fill the plush texture in this red. It’s harmonious, with a
86 Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne 2017 $24 This hint of burning vine cuttings on the lingering finish. So
is round and mouthfilling, with moderate intensity to the lush and velvety it’s approachable now, yet there is a solid
black cherry, blackberry and leafy flavors. Firm, dry tan- grip underneath the ripe fruit. Drink now through 2036.
nins conclude. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported.—B.S. 95 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Au Cros-
FRANCE Parantoux 2018 $1,710 There is purity to the cherry,
Burgundy / Côtes de Nuits bilberry, raspberry and floral flavors in this supple, delicate
red, allied to a lively structure. The balance is impeccable,
97 Méo-Camuzet Echézeaux Les Rouges du with a cocoa powder feel in the end; this should come to-
Bas 2018 $588 Silky and creamy-textured, this black gether nicely in a year or two. Best from 2022 through
cherry– and blackberry-flavored red is also intense and 2040. 10 cases imported.—B.S.
complex. Spice, earth, graphite and floral elements add
depth as this unfolds on the palate. Balanced and tensile, 94 Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs Chambolle-
this lingers with fruit, mineral and spice notes. Best from Musigny Les Feusselottes 2017 $185 Aromas and
2022 through 2043. 10 cases imported.—B.S. flavors of rose, steeped cherry, raspberry, graphite and spice
mark this tightly wound red. Elegant and refined, it ends
97 Méo-Camuzet Richebourg 2017 $1,750 with a slightly chewy finish, leaving a promise for more.
See Collectibles, page 99. Excellent length. Best from 2022 through 2042. 25 cases
imported.—B.S.
96 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes Mares 2017 $600
This is complex and evokes both fruit and vegetal flavors. 94 Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs Nuits-St.-
Black cherry, black currant, tomato leaf and beetroot com- Georges Les Perrières 2017 $220 Concentrated
bine, along with floral and spicy top notes. It’s all sup- flavors of black cherry, black currant and violet are smoky
ported by a firm, even scintillating structure, with chalky and spicy as this robust red unfolds on the palate. Opulent
tannins lining the resonant finish. Best from 2022 through yet vibrant, with ripe tannins lending support on the
2040. 25 cases imported.—B.S. finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 100 cases made, 18
cases imported.—B.S.
96 Méo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot Près Le
Cellier 2017 $450 This is all about finesse, with the 93 Albert Bichot Clos de Vougeot Domaine du
velvety texture embracing flavors of cherry, raspberry, Clos Frantin 2018 $450 The initial aroma is the
earth, mineral and spice. The spice notes intensify, with sweet, spicy oak, yet there is a core of pure cherry, black
sandalwood and green olive extending on the firmly struc- currant and violet underneath. This red is intense and
tured, complex finish. Jam-packed with flavor and per- expressive as the fruit gains the upper hand on the palate.
sonality, this needs time. Best from 2023 through 2045. Suave and balanced, it builds to a lingering aftertaste of
775 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. ripe fruit, graphite and spice. Drink now through 2030.
97 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Albert Bichot Chambolle-Musigny Les
Amoureuses 2018 $579 This red features great 93 Albert Bichot Echézeaux Domaine du
purity to its rose, strawberry and cherry flavors. Spicy oak Clos Frantin 2018 $389 A densely packed, fruity
and mineral add depth, yet this is all about finesse and an style, this boasts macerated cherry, raspberry, vanilla and
ethereal quality that’s distinctive. It’s balanced, with bright toast flavors. It feels balanced for the most part, with
acidity and firm, dusty tannins on the finish that are yet chalky tannins lining the finish that should integrate in
to be resolved. Best from 2022 through 2043. 150 cases a year or two. Vibrant and long. Best from 2023 through
made, 31 cases imported.—B.S. 2038. 300 cases made, 97 cases imported.—B.S. MASTERPIECE
95 Albert Bichot Latricières-Chambertin 2018 93 Bouchard Père & Fils Chambertin-Clos de
$390 Intensely aromatic, offering graphite-tinged cur-
rant, cherry, strawberry and earth flavors. Its texture is
Bèze 2018 $450 Flavors of black cherry, black cur-
rant, earth and spice are draped onto the elegant frame
BY POMMERY
silky and the finish well-defined, even racy and long, of this red. Its structure lends grip on the compact finish,
echoing the fruit and mineral components. Best from 2022 while the oak is pretty dominant now. Needs time. Best
through 2040. 80 cases made, 22 cases imported.—B.S. from 2023 through 2038. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Lucien Le Moine Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut

St.-Jacques 2017 $225 An expressive and complex
93 Bouchard Père & Fils Chambolle-Musigny
2018 $100 Silky and exuding violet, blackberry and
93
POINTS
red, with intense flavors of black currant, blueberry, black currant, this red is about as alluring as a young Bur-
violet, smoke, iron and spice matched to a dense, well- gundy gets. It firms up on the finish with refined, cocoa
integrated structure. It’s fresh and long, with impeccable powder tannins. Vibrant and long too. Drink now through
balance and character. Best from 2023 through 2040. 20 2028. 74 cases imported.—B.S.
P LE ASE D R IN K RESPO NSI BLY.

93 Pierre Labet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles 92 Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs Fixin Clos FRANCE

Vignes 2016 $125 Gorgeous scents of rose, cherry, du Chapitre 2017 $115 A dark, brooding red, despite
sandalwood and lavender mark this perfumed red. Elegant its almost elegant profile, with intensity and flavors of
Languedoc–Rousillon
and silky, with terrific harmony and a lingering aftertaste black cherry, black currant, plum and iron. A dense ma-
of fruit and vegetal elements. Best from 2022 through trix of refined tannins lends backbone and this finishes
92 Gérard Bertrand Languedoc-Cabrières Rosé
2037. 48 cases imported.—B.S. long and strong. Drink now through 2028. 250 cases made,
Clos du Temple 2019 $190 Reminiscent of a white
Burgundy, this pale rosé offers rich flavors of vanilla-laced
93 Lucien Le Moine Chambolle-Musigny Les peach, apricot and currant edged with baking spice notes,
Feusselottes 2017 $215 A vibrant, supple version, 91 Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-St.-Georges Clos all bound by a firm acidity. Aromas of toast, rose petal and
this graceful red evokes floral, black currant, blueberry des Forêts St.-Georges 2018 $145 Black cherry wet stone give depth through the long finish. Grenache,
and mineral flavors framed in toasty, smoky oak, winding and blackberry fruit is prominent in this fleshy red, with Cinsault, Syrah, Viognier and Mourvèdre. Drink now
down as the light burr of tannins lines the finish. Best a touch of oak spice. It firms up with light tannins on the through 2023. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
from 2022 through 2038. 15 cases imported.—B.S. back end, staying balanced and long. Expressive and fresh.
Drink now through 2032. 350 cases made, 150 cases
90 M. Chapoutier Rivesaltes Domaine de
93 Château de Marsannay Gevrey-Chambertin imported.—B.S.
Bila-Haut 1987 $30/500ml Brooding, with savory
2016 $105 Tart cherry, bilberry and raspberry flavors elements of leather, dried herb and tobacco leaf flavors
are the hallmarks of this vibrant, fruity red. It’s sleek and 91 Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Les weaving through fig, caramel, dried cherry and ganache
focused, with a lingering fruit and spice aftertaste. Drink Murots Domaine du Clos Frantin 2018 $90 Bright, details that dovetail on the sinewy finish. Still shows lots
now through 2033. 75 cases imported.—B.S. sparkling with black currant, black cherry, mineral and of life and energy, but best to enjoy now. Drink now
spice flavors. All its components are in place and the fin- through 2023. 300 cases made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
93 Domaine des Perdrix Echézeaux 2017 $300 ish echoes fruit, graphite and spice notes. Best from 2022
A mix of iron, cherry, earth and tobacco flavors are allied through 2035. 830 cases made, 120 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Gérard Bertrand Aude Hauterive Red
to a dense, burly framework in this red. Though rustic in Cigalus 2018 $50 Ripe red plum and licorice-lined
character, it’s long and well-balanced. Best from 2023 91 Albert Bichot Nuits-St.-Georges White raspberry flavors are open-knit and detailed with mineral,
through 2038. 295 cases made, 25 cases imported.—B.S. Château Gris Les Terrasses 2018 $117 A lush and fresh herb and baking spice elements in this medium-
opulent version, featuring peach, lemon tart, baking spice bodied red, with the tannins offering some grip to the fin-
92 Arlaud Charmes-Chambertin 2018 $231 and butterscotch aromas and flavors. It has good underly- ish. Shows nice elegance and freshness. Merlot, Cabernet
A hint of licorice and tobacco seeps into the core of cherry, ing cut and finishes long and savory. Drink now through Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Cari-
black currant and spice flavors in this muscular red, which 2025. 240 cases made, 67 cases imported.—B.S. gnan. Drink now through 2023. 5,000 cases made, 1,200
tips toward the tannins in balance, yet remains long, with cases imported.—G.S.
an earthy, leafy finish. Turns lush and charming with air. 91 Daniel Rion & Fils Vosne-Romanée Les
Best from 2022 through 2032. 150 cases made, 60 cases Chaumes 2017 $93 Macerated cherry and earth aro- 89 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue Rosé
imported.—B.S. mas and flavors introduce this sinewy red. Tobacco and 1701 2019 $32 This rosé is elegant and layered with
spice accents emerge as this evolves on the palate through flavors of tangerine, melon and honeycream that are well-
92 Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin 2018 $71 the finish. It’s taut and firm. Best from 2022 through 2035. spiced and cast with bitter herb and wet stone. Mouth-
A round, succulent red whose black currant, black cherry, 220 cases made, 35 cases imported.—B.S. watering. Grenache and Roussanne. Drink now. 800 cases
violet, iron and spice flavors are aligned with solid, made, 300 cases imported.—G.S.
well-integrated tannins. Offers a tactile impression on the 90 Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-St.-Georges Cuvée
finish. Best from 2022 through 2035. 300 cases made, 100 Mont des Oiseaux 2018 $120 Perfumed, this red of- 89 Château Puech-Haut Languedoc Rosé Tête
cases imported.—B.S. fers sandalwood, incense and sweet spice aromas and fla- de Bélier 2019 $34 Delicately laced white raspberry
vors surrounding a core of tart cherry and earth. Firm and and melon notes are underscored with mineral, tangerine
92 Albert Bichot Chambolle-Musigny Les balanced, with an austere finish. Best from 2022 through and floral accents in this supple rosé, with details of min-
Chabiots 2018 $180 Vanilla and sweet spices aug- 2038. 75 cases made, 35 cases imported.—B.S. eral, herb and spice gaining traction on the finish. Mourvè-
ment the strawberry, cherry and floral notes in this elegant dre and Grenache. Drink now. 2,900 cases made, 761 cases
red. Chalky tannins ply the finish, and overall this is bal- 90 Pierre Gelin Fixin Les Hervelets 2017 $82 imported.—G.S.
anced and long. Drink now through 2027. 350 cases made, Mint and sandalwood aromas introduce this taut red,
80 cases imported.—B.S. whose cherry, currant and mineral flavors are concentrated 88 M. Chapoutier Banyuls Rimage 2017
and long. It’s balanced in its lean way, with a savory fin- $31/500ml This sweetie offers a fresh acidity to can-
92 Albert Bichot Morey-St.-Denis Les Sorbets ish. Drink now through 2025. 300 cases made, 100 cases died cherry and fig flavors matched with caramel, floral
2018 $129 Bright cherry fruit is at the core of this imported.—B.S. and orange peel details. Not a powerhouse, but fresh and
elegant red, matched to a juicy texture and firm yet well- inviting. Plush tannins. Drink now through 2023. 1,500
integrated structure. Sandalwood, vanilla and chalk dust 90 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 2018 $128 cases imported.—G.S.
accents add interest and the finish takes on a chunky feel. The cherry and currant flavors are juicy and the floral,
Best from 2022 through 2032. 700 cases made, 102 cases mineral and spice accents discreet in this elegant red. It 88 Château Haut-Blanville Pays d’Oc Perle
imported.—B.S. shows latent power, building to a sustained finish and Noire 2015 $15 A sleek red, with plush tannins
chalky feel. Best from 2021 through 2033.—B.S. flanking currant and underbrush notes edged with spice,
92 Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée Domaine anise and cool mineral details. This shows muscle, with
du Clos Frantin 2018 $133 Cherry, raspberry, floral 90 Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs Fixin Clos herb, blackberry and cedar notes echoing on the finish.
and spice aromas are perfumed and seductive in this vel- du Chapitre 2018 $99 This is fleshy and packed with Drink now through 2023. 2,800 cases made, 50 cases
vety red. It displays terrific balance and harmony, with a blackberry, black cherry, iron and tobacco aromas and fla- imported.—G.S.
well-integrated structure for support. It’s approachable vors. Dense, dusty tannins provide support and the finish
now. Drink now through 2028. 600 cases made, 140 cases is long. Ideal for a braised beef dish. Drink now through 88 Château Puech-Haut Pays d’Oc Rosé Argali
imported.—B.S. 2028.—B.S. 2019 $22 A mineral-driven rosé with tangerine and
melon flavors that are nicely accented with spice and herb
92 Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée Les 89 Daniel Rion & Fils Vosne-Romanée Les elements. Hints of white raspberry round out the mouth-
Malconsorts Domaine du Clos Frantin 2018 Beaux-Monts 2017 $100 Beet root and tomato aro- watering finish. Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now.
$285 A solid backbone of tannins runs through this mas signal this plush red, settling into cherry and black 95,000 cases made, 14,120 cases imported.—G.S.
sleek, intense and juicy red, defining its currant, cherry currant fruit midpalate. A leafy edge persists on the dry,
and leafy, earthy notes, finishing with a light dusting of chalky finish. Best from 2022 through 2033. 535 cases 87 Château Haut-Blanville Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc
tannins. Best from 2022 through 2033. 960 cases made, made, 25 cases imported.—B.S. Réserve 2019 $15 A juicy, plush red with currant and
195 cases imported.—B.S. ripe cherry notes accentuated by a tangy acidity. Elements
88 Albert Bichot Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de of anise, spice and herb add savory touches to the finish.
92 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Les Nuits White 2018 $NA This white leans a bit more Drink now through 2023. 2,800 cases made, 550 cases
Chaumes 2018 $225 Broad and fleshy, exuding black to the earthy, stony side of the flavor equation, evoking imported.—G.S.
cherry, raspberry, plum and spice flavors. There are light apple and lemon fruit to match. It has subtle intensity and
vanilla and sandalwood elements, along with chalky, tac- fine overall balance and length. Drink now. 4,000 cases 87 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue Rosé
tile tannins on the lingering finish. Best from 2022 made, 500 cases imported.—B.S. 2019 $14 Verbena and melon notes are lightly spiced
through 2037.—B.S. in this supple rosé, with wet stone, tangerine and spice
weaving together on the finish. Drink now. 61,000 cases
made, 20,000 cases imported.—G.S.

87 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue Rosé FRANCE 95 Domaine Ferrando Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Prestige 2019 $19 Open-knit, with tangerine, wet Colombis 2018 $117 This is a beauty, with a seduc-
stone and verbena notes gliding along the midpalate, this
Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape tive display of Turkish coffee, singed alder, steeped plum
rosé is detailed with spice and herb notes and a touch of and warmed anise aromas and flavors that move in uni-
white raspberry on the finish. Grenache, Rolle and Syrah.
97 Domaine St.-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape son, backed by a subtle garrigue note through the finish.
Drink now. 6,500 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
Collection Charles Giraud 2018 $131 See Highly A late echo of warm earth adds a finishing touch. Best
Recommended, page 99.
from 2021 through 2037.—J.M.
86 Gérard Bertrand Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc Cote
des Roses 2019 $18 Cherry and brambly fruit notes
$109 FRANCE See Collectibles, page 99.
95 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-
are ripe and candy-edged in this plump, medium-bodied Pape Chaupin 2018 $85 This bursts forth with deli-
red, with rich touches of clove, herb and anise following 96 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du- cious crushed plum, cherry puree and raspberry coulis
through on the finish. Moderate, plush tannins. Drink Pape Vieilles Vignes 2018 $118 This offers up a notes that stretch out slowly through the lengthy, anise-
now. 30,000 cases made, 15,000 cases imported.—G.S. lushly textured set of crushed plum, boysenberry and and black tea–infused finish. Not shy with its fruit, but
blackberry fruit flavors scored with licorice snap through- this has more than enough energy and detail for balance.
86 Domaine Gayda Pays d’Oc Rosé Flying
out and laced with black tea on the finish. A subtle min- Best from 2021 through 2038. 504 cases imported.—J.M.
Solo 2019 $12 Crisp acidity marks the citrus and rasp-
eral edge peeks through the wall of fruit on the finish. For
berry flavors of this rosé, with melon rind, white pepper
the cellar. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from
94 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape
and wet stone notes to the floral elements on the finish. La Réserve 2018 $210 Ripe and silky in feel, with
2023 through 2038. 504 cases imported.—J.M.
Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now. 10,000 cases made, waves of creamed plum, blackberry and cherry fruit glid-
5,000 cases imported.—G.S. 96 Domaine St.-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape ing along, while licorice snap, rooibos tea and incense
Auguste Favier Réserve 2018 $73 This red puts on notes weave through. Offers nice persistence on the fin-
86 Château Haut-Blanville Languedoc Rosé
a gorgeous display of racy cassis, cherry puree and rasp- ish. Grenache and Syrah. Best from 2021 through 2033.
2019 $18 Plump in mouthfeel, with herb-tinged melon 295 cases made, 60 cases imported.—J.M.
berry coulis flavors laced with garrigue and singed sandal-
and Rainier cherry flavors detailed with licorice and flo-
wood accents, while a mouthwatering mineral edge drives
ral undertones. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now.
underneath. The long finish lets the fruit play out, adding
94 Guillaume Gonnet Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2,700 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—G.S. La Muse 2017 $66 Dark and winey, delivering a mix
flickers of tobacco and shiso leaf. Grenache, Syrah, Cin-
of plum, blackberry and fig fruit steeped with alder, to-
86 Mas de Daumas Gassac Pays d’Hérault sault and Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through 2038.—J.M.
bacco and licorice root notes. Tarry grip scores the finish
Rosé Moulin de Gassac Guilhem 2019 $13 Glossy
in texture, this rosé is marked with white strawberry and
95 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape and leaves a muscular impression. A rock-solid wine, and
La Cuvée du Papet 2018 $75 This is solid, with a a touch old-school. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
melon flavors joined with savory notes of white pepper Best from 2022 through 2036. 300 cases made, 200 cases
still-tight core of black cherry and dark plum fruit liber-
and wet stone through the finish. Drink now. 50,000 cases imported.—J.M.
ally laced with warm stone, garrigue, tar and alder notes.
made, 19,837 cases imported.—G.S.
Plenty grippy, with a smoldering tobacco accent through
the finish. Best from 2022 through 2035. 300 cases made,
100 cases imported.—J.M.
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94 Aimé Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos the finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse. Best 93 Domaine St.-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape
St.-Antonin 2018 $60 This is really alive, with a burst from 2021 through 2033. 409 cases made, 45 cases 2018 $50 Ripe and juicy, this is a well-built version
of kirsch, plum and blackberry notes leading off, followed imported.—J.M. offering up a range of enticing black cherry, plum and fig
by waves of black tea, melted black licorice and warm 93 La Font du Vent Châteauneuf-du-Pape fruit flavors while singed alder, garrigue and dried laven-
fruitcake. Long and lush through the finish, but maintains Cuvée Tradition 2018 $47 Open-knit, with a pretty der notes chime throughout. Shows ample fruit on the
detail and energy. Best from 2021 through 2034. 200 cases mix of steeped plum and lightly mulled raspberry notes finish with a savory streak providing a nice counterpoint.
imported.—J.M. infused with anise, singed sandalwood and garrigue Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from
accents. A charming wine. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvè- 2021 through 2032.—J.M.
93 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape
dre. Best from 2021 through 2033. 20,000 cases made, 168
Cuvée Tradition 2018 $50 Solidly packed, with a
cases imported.—J.M.
93 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018
lively black licorice frame around a core of lightly steeped $62 Stylish, with a mix of red cherry, raspberry and
plum and blackberry fruit. Light singed alder and garrigue 93 Guillaume Gonnet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Damson purée flavors swirling together. Light garrigue,
notes play out through the finish, with the fruit keeping Bel Ami 2018 $40 Ripe, forward and open-knit, with juniper and warm brick hints develop through the finish,
the upper hand. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cin- a burst of steeped cherry and raspberry fruit backed by adding textural range and overall length. Should age
sault. Best from 2021 through 2033. 3,000 cases made, light sandalwood and garrigue accents. An echo of shiso nicely too. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
500 cases imported.—J.M. leaf adds freshness and cut at the very end. Grenache, Best from 2021 through 2035. 4,000 cases made, 800 cases
Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Best from 2022 through imported.—J.M.
93 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2033. 3,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—J.M.
Les Safres 2018 $70 Juicy and forward style, with 91 Clos St.-Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles
ripe plum and black cherry compote flavors laced with 93 Guillaume Gonnet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vignes 2018 $55 Friendly cherry, Damson, savory and
black licorice and fruitcake accents, ending with echoes Hommage à Maryline 2017 $52 Ripe and juicy, this sanguine notes mingle with light red tea and shiso leaf
of black tea and warm earth. Grenache, Mourvèdre and pushes a wave of raspberry and plum purée flavors to the accents, curling around the very silky finish. A pretty,
Syrah. Best from 2021 through 2031. 977 cases made, 123 fore, while red licorice, sweet tobacco and singed juniper perfumy style. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault,
cases imported.—J.M. hints peek through before blooming on the finish. Gre- Vaccarèse and Muscardin. Drink now through 2030. 883
nache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Best from 2022 cases made, 711 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Clos St.-Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus
through 2035. 400 cases made, 250 cases imported.—J.M.
Ex Machina 2018 $120 Alluring, with gently mulled
Damson and raspberry notes infused with black tea, in- 93 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du- FRANCE
cense and garrigue accents. Subtle mineral edge adds Pape 2018 $60 Ripe and suave in feel, with velvety Rhône / St.-Joseph
length to the finish while pulling everything together waves of crushed plum, raspberry and red cherry fruit roll-
nicely. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Best from 2021 through ing through, lined with light licorice, red tea and incense 95 Delas St.-Joseph Ste.-Épine 2018 $80
2033. 508 cases made, 55 cases imported.—J.M. notes and ending with a long finish. A real crowd-pleaser. This sports a ripe and pure core of plum, boysenberry and
93 Clos St.-Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now black cherry purée flavors, while sporting some brambly
Combe des Fous 2018 $120 A mix of steeped plum through 2032. 504 cases imported.—J.M. grip and good energy throughout. Anise and warm fruit-
and black cherry fruit mixes with tobacco, chestnut and cake fill in on the finish and there’s a long, subtle mineral
melted licorice notes. There’s a touch of burl at first, but edge as well. Nice range and character, just needs a bit of
this quickly unwinds with air, showing a velvety edge on cellaring to fully knit. Best from 2022 through 2032. 500
cases made, 40 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Delas St.-Joseph White Les Challeys 2019
$35 Very bright and engaging style, with a flurry of hon-
IS YOUR TASTING ROOM OPEN FOR BUSINESS? eysuckle and acacia notes out front followed quickly by
lively white peach, Jonagold apple and star fruit flavors.
DO YOU HAVE A VIRTUAL TASTING OFFER TO PROMOTE? Light quinine inlay adds an extra note of intrigue. Lovely.
Drink now through 2027. 700 cases made.—J.M.
94 E. Guigal St.-Joseph Vignes de l’Hospice
LET OUR READERS KNOW IN 2017 $125 A polished and toasty style, with vanilla
The
bean and singed mesquite accents draped over a core of
very substantial dark cherry and plum fruit. Fruitcake and
licorice frame the finish, with a buried iron note to keep
it honest. Really packed throughout. Best from 2022
through 2035. 125 cases imported.—J.M.
Tasting
94 St.-Cosme St.-Joseph 2018 $40 Juicy and
still youthfully compact, with singed mesquite and incense
wrapped around a core of lightly mulled cherry, plum and
blackberry fruit flavors. Incense note curls around the
finish too. Should blossom with a touch of cellaring.
Room
imported.—J.M.
94 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit Le
Biez 2018 $60 Nicely packed, with a mix of black-
BY WINE SPECTATOR berry and black cherry fruit entwined with dried anise,
bramble, bay and iron notes. Has some grip to shed too,
but everything is there, so just cellar a bit to let it unwind.
The Tasting Room is a new, quarterly opportunity to promote your Tasting Room or imported.—J.M.
Virtual Tasting Event to Wine Spectator’s 3.1 million affluent adventurers who travel
near and far to explore their passion for wine. 94 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph White Lieu-
Dit Le Biez 2019 $40 Ripe and juicy, but with lots
Your promotion will appear in print, e-blast and web — all for one low price. of bright detail to the starfruit, white peach and yellow
apple notes, showing honeysuckle, acacia and mineral ac-
cents. The long, pure finish has lovely cut. Best from 2021
RESERVE YOUR SPACE IN THE APRIL 2021 EDITION TODAY! through 2027. 100 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.
Contact: Cheryl Lewis, Vice President - West Coast Ad Director, 93 Maison Les Alexandrins St.-Joseph 2018
$39 Textbook, with racy black cherry and blackberry
[email protected] | 415-673-2040 ext. 1 fruit flavors pierced throughout by smoldering bay, violet
and white pepper accents. Graphite edge lines the finish

while the fruit keeps pace. Rock solid. Best from 2021 92 Alléno & Chapoutier St.-Joseph Croix de
through 2031. 1,250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M. Chabot 2018 $37 Juicy and forward in style, with a
93 Louis Chèze St.-Joseph Anges 2017 $79 mix of mildly steeped plum and red cherry fruit infused
Dark and winey, with ripe plum and blackberry compote gently with anise, savory and violet notes. Light bramble
notes carried by a sleek and racy graphite edge. Smolder- edge on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 355 cases
ing black tea and a hint of warm earth on the finish. Solid. made, 60 cases imported.—J.M.
Drink now through 2029. 2,000 cases made, 400 cases 92 Louis Chèze St.-Joseph Ro-Rée 2018 $40
imported.—J.M. A fresh and open style, with a nice beam of dark cherry
93 Louis Chèze St.-Joseph White Ro-Rée and currant fruit inlaid with a bright savory streak and
2018 $50 Ripe, with a mix of quince, pear and apricot finishing with hints of licorice root and singed juniper.
flavors, this stays fresh and racy with light orange zest and Drink now through 2027. 6,000 cases made, 400 cases
quinine threads inlaid through the finish. Distinctive and imported.—J.M.
tasty. Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2025. 92 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph Lautaret
2,900 cases made, 200 cases imported.—J.M. 2018 $46 Alluring, with blackberry and raspberry pâte
93 Delas St.-Joseph François de Tournon 2018 de fruit notes forming the core while anise, black tea and
$38 Fresh and focused, with a lovely beam of dark cherry singed woodspice hints fill in throughout. Subtle floral
and bitter plum reduction notes laced with graphite, vio- and bay accents on the finish. Seductive style. Drink now
let and anise. Racy, tightly focused finish. Best from 2021 through 2028. 340 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.
through 2029. 1,400 cases made, 147 cases imported.—J.M. 92 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph Les Coteaux
93 Eric & Joël Durand St.-Joseph White 2019 2018 $40 Bright, pure style, with a beam of cassis and
$40 This straddles the line nicely between racy and plum purée racing through, lined with violet and iron
ripe, with a mix of peach, pear and melon flavors allied notes, ending with a dash of anise amidst an encore of
to chamomile, quinine and honeysuckle notes. The in- fruit. Yummy. Best from 2021 through 2029. 2,000 cases
terplay is even-handed throughout and there’s nice length made, 400 cases imported.—J.M.
on the finish. Drink now through 2026. 360 cases made, 92 E. Guigal St.-Joseph White Lieu-Dit 2018
50 cases imported.—J.M. $75 Very stylish, this offers a ripe core of creamed pear,
93 Equis St.-Joseph 2017 $40 Fresh and open, green fig and melon flavors laced with a suave brioche
with a beam of black cherry and blackberry compote fla- note and ending with a kiss of singed almond. Drink now
vors at the core, laced with dried anise, savory and olive through 2025. 90 cases imported.—J.M.
hints. A flicker of cast iron keeps the finish grounded. 92 Lautaret St.-Joseph Expression 2018 $40
Best from 2021 through 2031. 200 cases made, 50 cases Juicy and direct, with a bolt of blackberry and plum com-
imported.—J.M. pote leading the way, backed by licorice and briar notes
93 E. Guigal St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit 2017 $75 through the slightly gutsy finish. Should stretch out with
An extroverted style, with a rush of boldly ripe plum and modest cellaring. Best from 2021 through 2027. 400 cases
blackberry compote flavors that are round and inviting made, 70 cases imported.—J.M.
in feel, laced with dark licorice and fruitcake and ending 92 Julien Pilon St.-Joseph White Dimanche à
with an inlay of violet on the toasty finish. A buried iron Lima 2018 $32 Lush, inviting style, with Bosc pear,
note keeps it all honest. Best from 2021 through 2029. 90 honey and melon notes swirling together, carrying through
cases imported.—J.M. with a brioche note draped on the finish. Marsanne and
93 Julien Pilon St.-Joseph Rue de Poissonniers, Roussanne. Drink now through 2023. 525 cases made, 84
Paris XVIIIe 2018 $32 This is a savory and pepper- cases imported.—J.M.
infused version, with the plum and dark cherry fruit core 92 Pierre-Jean Villa St.-Joseph Tildé 2018 $65
showing good energy. Finish shows slightly mouthwater- Ripe and focused, with a beam of dark cherry and black-
ing minerality and good length. Best from 2021 through berry compote flavors flanked by a graphite note. Finish
2029. 500 cases made, 84 cases imported.—J.M. has a nice tug of tar to give it some weight. Drink now
93 Georges Vernay St.-Joseph Terres d’Encre through 2026. 300 cases made, 30 cases imported.—J.M.
2018 $85 This offers up a refined mix of bitter plum, 92 Alain Voge St.-Joseph Les Côtes 2018 $45
loganberry and black cherry compote flavors infused with A bright and fresh style, with cherry and currant fruit
violet, black tea and mesquite hints and carried to a fine- spliced with a flash of savory and a twinge of sandalwood,
grained, mineral-edged finish. Lovely. Drink now through ending with subtle persistence on the mineral-tinged
2028. 600 cases made, 75 cases imported.—J.M. finish. Drink now through 2027. 260 cases made, 25 cases
93 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph 2018 $37 imported.—J.M.
A burst of violet and crushed black cherry leads off, with 91 Delas St.-Joseph Les Challeys 2019 $30
bright acidity, fine-grained structure and a lingering hint A pure, stylish version, with a racy floral profile and pretty
of plum paste on the finish. A savory edge throughout red and black cherry fruit streaming through. There’s a
adds detail. Best from 2021 through 2030. 2,916 cases
« Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva is a very
subtle mineral underlay on the unadorned finish. Drink elegant red blend revealing the purest
made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M. now through 2023. 900 cases made.—J.M. expression of the Chilean terroir combined
93 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Joseph White 91 E. Guigal St.-Joseph 2017 $40 Juicy and with Baron Philippe de Rothschild French
L’Élouède 2019 $42 Bright and juicy, with lots of open-knit, with bright bitter cherry and damson plum winemaking expertise and passion. »
starfruit, green fig and yellow apple flavors lined liberally fruit flavors, lined with floral and mineral notes. Shows
with honeysuckle and acacia notes. Lively finish ripples (PPDQXHO5L㑅DXG*0 +HDG:LQHPDNHU%3K5
a strong savory edge on the finish. Drink now through
lengthily. Roussanne and Marsanne. Drink now through 2029. 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
2025. 408 cases made, 200 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Pierre-Jean Villa St.-Joseph White Saut de
91 Pierre-Jean Villa St.-Joseph Préface 2019
$49 Ripe and warm, with creamed plum and blackberry
l’Ange 2019 $81 This is a ripe and lush style, with a notes spilling forth backed by anise and sweet spice
heather and creamed melon core that picks up extra notes accents through the polished finish. Drink now through
of persimmon, peach and singed almond as it moves 2024. 1,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.—J.M.
through the brioche-accented finish. A racy underlay
keeps it fresh and moving. Drink now through 2025. 400
cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.

New Releases: France / Israel / Italy
90 E. Guigal St.-Joseph White 2018 $36 finish. Lovely. Drink now through 2028. 2,200 cases made, 90 Yatir Yatir Forest Judean Hills 2016 $85
This white bounces along nicely with an open-knit mix 800 cases imported.—J.M. A brooding-style, with dense currant and cherry notes
of peach, pear and honeysuckle notes, backed by a kiss of 91 Louis Chèze Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes enhanced with herbal and mineral elements. Muscular
brioche on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 100 cases Syrahvissante 2018 $20 Alluring, with a mix of dark tannins offer hefty support along with mocha, licorice,
imported.—J.M. cherry, tar, anise and violet notes carried by a silky struc- menthol and cedar flavors that linger along the finish.
ture. Light smoldering hint on the finish. Drink now Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Kosher.
89 Domaine de Gouye St.-Joseph Vieilles
through 2022. 5,300 cases made, 600 cases imported.—J.M. Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases made, 500 cases
Vignes 2017 $47 Ripe and direct, with crushed plum imported.—G.S.
and boysenberry fruit flavors laced with dried anise and
singed apple wood. A touch toothy through the finish, 90 Georges Vernay Syrah 89 Flam Camellia Judean Hills 2019 $45 Nicely
with a lingering plum skin note. Drink now through 2022. Vin de Pays des Collines Rho- spiced and backed by a lively acidity, this offers apple and
366 cases made, 108 cases imported.—J.M. daniennes Fleurs de Mai 2019 white peach flavors that are fresh and juicy. Rich accents
$45 Charming and stylish, with of vanilla and floral mingle through the toasty finish.
violet, cherry puree, white pepper Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Kosher. Drink now
FRANCE and savory notes all gliding through through 2023. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
Rhône / St.-Péray in unison, ending with a silky fin-
ish. Drink now. 350 cases made, 50 CHRISTINE VERNAY
89 Gush Etzion Spring River GSM Judean Hills
93 Alain Voge St.-Péray Fleur de Crussol 2018 cases imported.—J.M. Owner & Winemaker 2017 $30 Juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit is fresh
$55 A creamy style, with melon, pear and yellow apple and mocha-tinged in this plump red with savory spice,
fruit flavors that caress as they move through, with light 88 Louis Chèze Marsanne Pays des Collines graphite and black tea notes that round out the plush fin-
toast and honeysuckle nuances on the finish. Drink now Rhodaniennes 2018 $25 Juicy, with nectarine and ish. Good energy and harmony of flavors. Syrah, Grenache
through 2025. 600 cases made, 30 cases imported.—J.M. yellow plum flavors backed by a light flash of green al- and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2024. 1,200 cases
mond on the compact finish. Drink now. 2,800 cases made, made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
92 Laurent Fayolle St.-Péray Montis 2018 $28 400 cases imported.—J.M. 87 Segal Petit Unfiltered Galilee 2017 $23
Lively, with apricot, peach and nectarine notes bouncing
along, backed by a fresh, mineral- and floral-tinged fin- 87 E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2019 $19 Currant, mocha and black olive notes fill the core of this
ish. Nicely focused and understated style. Drink now A savory hint leads to friendly peach andwhite raspberry muscular red, with cedar, savory spice and leafy details
through 2023. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.—J.M. notes, with stony hints on the finish. Grenache, Cinsault giving a savory edge to the finish. Kosher. Drink now
and Syrah. Drink now. 5,000 cases imported.—J.M. through 2022. 1,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.—G.S.
92 Julien Pilon St.-Péray Les Maisons de
87 Tabor Tannat Galilee Shifton Vineyard 2014
Victor 2018 $30 Juicy and fresh, with good energy to 86 La Bernarde Côtes de Provence Rosé Les
$40 A brooding red with a broad profile offering plum
the mix of apricot, peach and pear flavors. Shows orange Hauts du Luc 2019 $17 Crisp and pithy, with melon
blossom and honeysuckle notes on the zippy finish, with and spice notes flanked with bitter herb and wet stone cake, brown bread and leafy flavors edged with anise, herb,
the fruit easily keeping the upper hand. Marsanne and undertones, followed by a zesty finish. Drink now. 8,000 cocoa and black tea undertones. Full tannins. Drink now
Roussanne. Drink now through 2025. 458 cases made, 56 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—G.S. through 2023. 550 cases made, 210 cases imported.—G.S.
cases imported.—J.M.
86 Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rosé Nature
92 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Péray 2019 $28 2019 $15 This forward and open-knit rosé offers notes ITALY
Juicy and bright, with a tightly focused core of white of watermelon and peach, backed by a juicy finish. Cin- Piedmont / Barbaresco
peach, nectarine and honeysuckle notes backed by a subtle sault, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now. 100
twinge of orange zest on the finish. Marsanne and Rous- cases imported.—J.M. 95 Giuseppe Cortese
sanne. Drink now through 2023. 830 cases made, 300 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva
cases imported.—J.M. 86 Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rosé Réserve 2013 $125 A sleek, elegant
2019 $14 A light, fresh style, with flashes of water- style, with plenty of intensity to
90 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Péray Lieu-Dit Les melon rind and white cherry backed by light stone and its floral, strawberry, currant,
Faures 2018 $45 An open-knit style, with orange, savory hints. Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. mineral and eucalyptus flavors.
nectarine and apricot flavors that hint at a skin-contact Drink now. 22,000 cases imported.—J.M. Still a little reticent on the finish,
style, while light floral and paraffin notes fill in gently on yet balanced and pure. The fruit
the finish. Interesting, if a bit off-beat. Drink now through 86 Les Vins de Vienne Syrah Vin de France Rosé
becomes more prominent with GIUSEPPE CORTESE
2023. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M. Reméage 2019 $20 Friendly, with easygoing water-
melon and white cherry notes and a plump, open finish. air, so decant gently now or age Owner
89 Les Vins de Vienne St.-Péray Les Bialères Drink now. 580 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M. a few more years. Best from 2022 through 2038. 500 cases
2019 $40 Juicy and forward, with nectarine and white made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
peach notes laced with a bitter almond hint. Light-handed
toast throughout. Drink now through 2022. 600 cases ISRAEL 95 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà
made, 200 cases imported.—J.M. 2016 $215 Elegant and graceful, this offers cherry,
91 Tabor Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Malkiya strawberry, rose, tobacco, iron and spice flavors on a linear
89 Alain Voge St.-Péray Les Bulles d’Alain 2016 $62 Nicely crafted, with hallmark cedar, currant frame. The steely structure and tension deliver plenty of
2015 $35 A toasty sparkler, with a brioche note out and spice notes interwoven with olive, graphite and for- grip. Balanced in the end, with a chalky feel on the finish.
front, followed by friendly pear and yellow apple flavors. est floor details. There’s focus to this full-bodied red, with Best from 2023 through 2045. 40 cases imported.—B.S.
Ends with a broad, easygoing finish. Drink now. 420 cases muscular tannins and notes of mocha and leather tracing
made, 40 cases imported.—J.M. along the finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2024. 2,000 95 Fratelli Giacosa Barbaresco Basarin Vigna
cases made, 300 cases imported.—G.S. Gianmaté 2016 $65 Sweet ripe cherry and raspberry
aromas and flavors are framed by floral, menthol and spice
FRANCE 90 Domaine du Castel Petit Castel Haute-Judée accents. Elegant and harmonious, with terrific length and
Rhône / Other 2018 $53 Marked by both power and focus, with red serious backbone for aging. Stays fresh and focused, with
berry and currant notes flanked with graphite, cedar and a mineral element lingering. Best from 2023 through 2042.
94 Les Vins de Vienne Collines Rhodaniennes savory spice elements all supported by taught tannins.
Details of underbrush and black tea give depth to the
1,200 cases made, 350 cases imported.—B.S.
Sotanum 2018 $80 Quite expressive, with warmed
plum and blackberry purée notes holding the upper hand structured finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit 95 Fiorenzo Nada Barbaresco Rombone
Verdot. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 2,000 cases 2016 $65 This red is pure and alluring for its aromas
while light anise, black tea and violet notes swirl in the
made, 350 cases imported.—G.S. of rose, strawberry and cherry, with eucalyptus and earth
background. Silky, refined finish has sneaky length and a
notes chiming in as this tightens up on the compact
buried graphite hint. Best from 2022 through 2032. 1,000 90 Recanati Special Reserve Galilee 2017 finish. The lasting impression is ripe fruit, so be patient.
cases made, 400 cases imported.—J.M. $60 A generous and sinewy red with a firm structure Best from 2023 through 2042. 333 cases made, 100 cases
93 Les Vins de Vienne Collines Rhodaniennes enveloping the black currant, dark olive and bay leaf fla-
vors that are decked out with anise, graphite and black
imported.—B.S.
Heluicum 2018 $47 This offers seductive crushed
plum, raspberry and blackberry fruit notes that meld nicely tea details. Smoke and savory spice notes linger on the 94 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigna Loreto
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan Ovello 2017 $65 A pungent version, sporting plum,
with black tea, graphite and singed mesquite hints through
and Marselan. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 1,550 black cherry, leather, vanilla and spice flavors, with dense
the velvety finish. Light sanguine thread stitches up the
cases made, 150 cases imported.—G.S. tannins backing it all up, while the sweet fruit persists on

New Releases: Italy
the finish. This has some power. Best from 2023 through 92 Carlo Giacosa Barbaresco Luca Riserva 2015
2038. 200 cases made, 70 cases imported.—B.S. $70 Firm and dense, the cherry, plum and tar flavors
94 La Spinetta Barbaresco Valeirano Vürsù hiding behind a wall of tannins. Floral, leather and smoke
2016 $143 Distinctive aromas of rose, black currant accents add depth as this winds down on the long finish.
and raspberry mark this taut, intense red, which is sleek Shows ripe fruit and fine balance. Best from 2022 through
and firmly structured, with lively acidity and dusty tan- 2038. 200 cases made, 70 cases imported.—B.S.
nins mingling with fruit, savory and mineral elements on 92 Carlo Giacosa Barbaresco Montefico 2016
the long aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2038. 583 $55 A complex red, this exhibits cherry, mint, tar,
cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S. tobacco and oak spice aromas and flavors. Powerful and
93 Ceretto Barbaresco Asili 2017 $250 This beefy, with muscular tannins clamping down on the fin-
red’s cherry and strawberry fruit is framed in toasty, spicy ish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 700 cases made, 250
oak, with an overall feel of harmony. Tannins are present cases imported.—B.S.
yet well-mannered and the finish is long and expansive. 92 Icardi Barbaresco Montubert 2016 $38
Best from 2023 through 2038. 150 cases imported.—B.S. A linear red, balancing delicate flavors of rose, strawberry,
93 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà cherry and hay on a slim frame and steely structure. These
2017 $55 Elegant, gentle and expressive, with cherry, features, along with its balance and iron-tinged finish,
strawberry, floral and iron flavors supported by a solid make it appealing. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,250
structure. Closes up a little on the finish, with a long af- cases made, 175 cases imported.—B.S.
tertaste of fruit and mineral. Best from 2023 through 2042. 91 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco
1,420 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S. Sanadaive 2017 $30 Floral, cherry and spice flavors
93 Moccagatta Barbaresco Cole 2017 $81 are the mainstays in this light-bodied, juicy red, with un-
Perfumed and expressive, this red reveals floral, cherry, dertones of earth and tobacco. It builds to a long finish,
vanilla and sandalwood aromas and flavors, with a hefty where dusty tannins and a touch of heat linger. Drink now
dose of raspy tannins courtesy of the new oak. Ripe and through 2035. 1,200 cases made, 480 cases imported.—B.S.
generous midpalate, it shows good balance overall, just 91 Fiorenzo Nada Barbaresco Montaribaldi
needing time to absorb the oak. Best from 2023 through 2016 $60 Austere and tightly wound, this red features
2040. 160 cases made, 80 cases imported.—B.S. cherry, menthol, licorice and earth flavors. An iron note
93 Fiorenzo Nada Barbaresco Manzola 2016 emerges as this plays out on the long finish, where it re-
$45 An attractive mix of floral, red fruit, earth and lic- mains taut and compact. Best from 2023 through 2039.
orice flavors, this red is dense and expressive. Its vibrant 333 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
structure keeps the flavors focused and lengthens the fin- 90 Ceretto Barbaresco Bernadot 2017 $150
ish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 600 cases made, 300 A beam of pure cherry bisects this elegant red, with firm
cases imported.—B.S. structure giving support. Earth, iron and spice notes add
92 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco detail. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2037. 50 cases
Basarin 2017 $40 A mix of black currant, camphor, imported.—B.S.
earth, iron and underbrush flavors marks this brooding 90 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani Santo
red. Well-structured, balanced and moderately long, if Stefano Riserva 2015 $80 Camphor and tar flavors
still compact on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2042. highlight this firmly tannic red. With air, ripe plum and
900 cases made, 360 cases imported.—B.S. cherry notes emerge and this finds its equilibrium. A rus-
92 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barbaresco tic style. Best from 2023 through 2040. 500 cases made,
Chiaramanti 2017 $104 A beam of pure cherry per- 150 cases imported.—B.S.
meates this elegant red. Iron, earth, tobacco and eucalyp-
tus notes add detail. Just when you think it’s delicate and 90 Albino Rocca Bar-
graceful, the dense tannins sweep in, flexing their muscles baresco Montersino 2017
on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2038. 200 cases $55 Sweet ripe cherry aroma
imported.—B.S. leads off, continuing the cherry
theme on the palate alongside
92 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barbaresco plum, leather and tobacco fla-
Maria di Brun 2016 $133 Ample flavors of plum, vors. Supple and charming,
black cherry, tar, eucalyptus and spice mark this beefy red. with a lingering aftertaste of
There is plenty of sweet fruit, offset by burly tannins. fruit, earth and spice. Best from
Comes together nicely on the finish. Best from 2023 2022 through 2035. 200 cases MONICA, PAOLA &
DANIELA ROCCA
through 2037. 200 cases imported.—B.S. made, 50 cases imported.—B.S. Proprietors
92 Ca’ Romé di Romano Marengo Barbaresco

Rio Sordo 2017 $114 A rich, broad version, this boasts 89 Castello di Neive Barbaresco 2017 $49
cherry, berry, earth, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors. Starts out with an aroma of tar, but the flavor spectrum
Its chunky profile persists on the finish, where the mouth- includes cherry, eucalyptus and tobacco notes. A broad
coating tannins emerge. Fine balance overall. Best from swath of tannins guards the finish. Best from 2023 through
2023 through 2040. 200 cases imported.—B.S. 2040. 5,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Ceretto Barbaresco 2017 $70 Pure flavors

of cherry, strawberry and rose highlight this elegant red, ITALY
accented by cut hay, white pepper and tobacco. It’s solid Piedmont / Barolo
and long, with a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2023
through 2040. 500 cases imported.—B.S. 97 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 2016 $90 See
Highly Recommended, page 99.
92 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco 2017 $40
An elegant red, full of cherry, strawberry, mint and earth 96 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Vite Talin 2013
notes. Firm and balanced, with lively acidity driving the $450 Elegant and detailed, featuring cherry, strawberry,
mouthwatering finish. Chalky tannins leave a tactile im- eucalyptus, iron and tea aromas and flavors. Turns dense
pression. Best from 2022 through 2038. 840 cases made, and solid as the assertive tannins still have the upper hand,
500 cases imported.—B.S. yet this is long and the sweet fruit returns at the end. The
new Barolo from Luciano Sandrone. Best from 2023
through 2045. 150 cases made, 20 cases imported.—B.S.

New Releases: Italy
96 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2016 94 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa 93 Fratelli Giacosa Barolo Bussia 2015 $65
$90 Mint and cut grass aromas give way to cherry, black Grimaldi 2016 $62 Macerated cherry, black currant Menthol and savory notes of juniper and sage mark this
currant and raspberry fruit in this juicy red. Tar, tobacco and tar flavors predominate, with accents of eucalyptus, meaty red. Dense tannins lurk in the background, while
and eucalyptus accents add depth as this builds to a long, tobacco and rose hip tea. Toned and graceful like an ath- the essence of cherry adds a fruity sweetness midpalate. Sa-
gripping finish. Shows fine balance and length. Best from lete, with plenty of innate power, showing terrific balance vory elements return on the lingering finish. Best from 2023
2023 through 2046. 1,250 cases made.—B.S. and length. Best from 2024 through 2050. 200 cases through 2042. 3,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
imported.—B.S.
96 Vietti Barolo Brunate 2016 $175 See
93 Silvio Grasso Barolo
Collectibles, page 99. 94 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo Ravera 2016 $57
Bricco Luciani 2016 $64
This aromatic version offers floral and black pepper scents
95 Cascina Chicco Barolo Rocche di Castelletto that lead to flavors of cherry and strawberry. A matrix of
The core of plum and cherry is
2016 $80 See Highly Recommended, page 99. framed by spicy oak in this red,
dense, dusty tannins exerts its influence midpalate through
along with accents of licorice, tar
95 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice the finish. Shows purity and length, so be patient. Best
and tobacco. This is supple and
2015 $135 Aromas of camphor and sweet pipe tobacco from 2023 through 2045. 300 cases made, 150 cases
harmonious, with polished tannins
give way to cherry, tar and wild scrub flavors in this densely imported.—B.S.
and a spicy finish. Best from 2022
structured red, which is elegant and sinewy, with a linger-
ing, chewy finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 500 cases
94 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo Sotto Castello di through 2037. 500 cases made, 100 ALESSIO FEDERICO
GRASSO
Novello 2016 $57 A tightly wound, racy style, exhib- cases imported.—B.S. Owner & Winemaker
made.—B.S. iting rose, cherry, currant, licorice and mineral flavors.
95 Renato Corino Barolo Arborina 2016 $68 Packs a lot character into its linear frame, all the while 93 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Manzoni 2016
Oak tones of vanilla and toast are nicely integrated remaining balanced. Refined tannins and vibrant acidity $81 Sandalwood, vanilla, strawberry, cherry and tar fla-
with the floral, red berry, tar, iron and tobacco flavors of provide support and drive. Best from 2022 through 2042. vors converge in this supple, stylish red. The tannins are
this red, which is polished and succulent, showing a mix 550 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S. present on the finish, yet feel more polished than in many
of its 2016 peers. Fine length. Best from 2022 through
of fruit, spice and mineral notes mingling on the finish.
94 Oddero Barolo Bussia Vigna Mondoca 2038. 250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
Riserva 2014 $115 The lean frame wears the bright,
imported.—B.S. pure cherry flavor well, complementing it with notes of 93 M. Marengo Barolo 2016 $53 Aromas of
95 M. Marengo Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2016 white pepper, menthol and Earl Grey tea. This is firm and cherry, incense and eucalyptus introduce this red, whose
$64 This vibrant red is rich and harmonious, offering stretches nicely from beginning to the long finish. Best flavors evoke cherry, earth, iron and orange peel. It’s firm
cherry, raspberry, menthol, wild herb and tar flavors that from 2022 through 2038. 150 cases made.—B.S. and tightly packed, with a lingering finish and essence of
fruit. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 300
are nicely integrated into the solid structure, extending
with a persistent aftertaste of fruit and savory elements.
94 Prunotto Barolo Bussia 2016 $95 Bright cases imported.—B.S.
with cherry, berry, mint, leather and tar aromas and fla-
Best from 2022 through 2045. 400 cases made, 200 cases vors, this red possesses a matching structure for balance 93 M. Marengo Barolo Brunate 2016 $80
imported.—B.S. and poise. Well put together at this young stage, its har- Taut with raspy tannins, with delicate flavors of rose,
95 Mirafiore Barolo Paiagallo 2016 $100 mony and length bodes well for the future. Best from 2022 strawberry, cherry, cardamom and tobacco underneath.
This is rich, broad and powerful, verging on dark fruit through 2040. 300 cases imported.—B.S. Overall balanced and elegant. Best from 2023 through
2038. 400 cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S.
flavors of black cherry and black currant. Earth, iron and
spice notes round out the profile, while dense tannins lend
94 Fratelli Revello Barolo Gattera 2016 $60
support. Shows excellent balance, with a resonant finish.
This red is all about finesse and elegance, with pretty red 93 Gianmatteo Raineri Barolo Perno 2016 $60
fruit flavors—strawberry, cherry and currant—matched Fresh black cherry and black currant fruit is supported
Best from 2022 through 2043. 750 cases made, 40 cases to iron and hay accents and well-mannered tannins. Har- by tar, licorice and spice accents in this powerful red.
imported.—B.S. monious and almost approachable now, yet should develop Dense, burly tannins take hold of the finish, which ex-
95 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2016 over the next two decades. Best from 2023 through 2040. tends courtesy of the vivid acidity. Best from 2024 through
$155 See Collectibles, page 100. 450 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S. 2045. 500 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S.
95 G.D. Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose 2016 $75 94 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2016 $40 Elegant 92 Marziano Abbona Barolo Ravera 2015 $63
Dusty cherry, black currant, eucalyptus and hay aromas and expressive, this red evokes cherry, raspberry and floral There is a bright core of cherry and currant fruit under-
and flavors highlight this energetic red. There is purity to notes, aligned to a refined structure. This is balanced and neath the hard exterior of this taut red. Iron, tobacco
the beam of fruit, and while the structure is muscular, the leaves an aftertaste of fruit, tobacco and iron. Best from and tar notes join the party as this cruises to a lingering
lasting impression is of sweet fruit. Best from 2023 through 2023 through 2043. 3,300 cases made.—B.S. conclusion. Finds a nice equilibrium in spite of the stiff
tannins. Best from 2023 through 2040. 570 cases made,
2045. 400 cases made.—B.S. 93 Cascina Chicco Barolo Ginestra Riserva 75 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Matteo Ascheri Barolo Ascheri 2016 $175 2013 $120 Balsamic aromas of eucalyptus, menthol,
Fierce tannins and a dense structure watch over the mac- wild rosemary and sage mark this slightly austere red, 92 Matteo Ascheri Barolo Pisapola 2016 $80
erated cherry, strawberry, eucalyptus, leather and tobacco whose berry and cherry flavors are fading into a sweet Enticing aromas of macerated cherry, licorice, leather and
flavors in this complex red. The initial suppleness stands essence. Though dense and firm, this remains balanced spice greet the senses, with sweet fruit, licorice, tobacco
in contrast to the firm grip on the finish. Fine length. Best and long. Best from 2022 through 2038. 250 cases made, and spice flavors. Balanced and open, this is will be ap-
from 2023 through 2043. 280 cases made.—B.S. 75 cases imported.—B.S. proachable soon, yet also has the structure to age. Best
from 2022 through 2040. 300 cases made.—B.S.
94 Renato Corino Barolo Stefano Corino 93 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Bussia 2016 $138
Roncaglie 2016 $73 Mint and eucalyptus notes frame Complex and satisfying for its licorice, cherry, strawberry, 92 Ceretto Barolo Bussia 2016 $169 Ripe
cherry, strawberry and floral flavors in this harmonious eucalyptus and earth aromas and flavors. Harmonious and plum and cherry fruit is graced with toasty, baking spice
red. The solid grip is integrated with the juicy texture and elegant, it expands on the finish with cut hay, tobacco and wild herb accents in this sinewy Barolo. There is har-
lively acidity. Fine length. Best from 2023 through 2042. and tea accents. Best from 2023 through 2040. 583 cases mony here, with a lasting impression of fruit to match the
125 cases made.—B.S. made, 200 cases imported.—B.S. refined tannins. Best from 2023 through 2040. 50 cases
imported.—B.S.
94 Damilano Barolo Brunate 2016 $90 93 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 2016
Aromas and flavors of eucalyptus, juniper, tar, black cherry $63 Cherry compote, earth, tea and iron flavors are 92 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo 2016 $49
and plum are the hallmarks of this beefy red, which is channeled by bracing acidity and refined tannins in this Shy in aroma, this red nonetheless shows harmony and
fresh and packs a firm grip on the finish, yet shows the racy red. It’s firm and ends with tobacco and spice notes. fine intensity to cherry, currant, mint, iron and tobacco
promise of ripe fruit too. Needs time. Best from 2023 Fine balance and length overall. Best from 2022 through flavors. Expands through the long finish, revealing savory
through 2042. 240 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S. 2036. 2,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—B.S. details. Best from 2023 through 2040. 600 cases made,
94 Damilano Barolo Cerequio 2016 $90 93 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 2016
This is aromatic and expressive, boasting rose, cherry, $83 A supple style, this delivers cherry, earth, iron and 92 Silvio Grasso Barolo Giachini 2016 $60
strawberry, earth and tobacco flavors. Supple yet well- tobacco flavors on a graceful frame. Balanced and firmly Spicy, with cherry, raspberry and floral notes shaded by
built, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins. Shows fine structured, with a lingering finish of tobacco and mineral. vanilla, charred oak and tar accents. There’s also a raisiny
length. Best from 2022 through 2040. 225 cases made, 50 Best from 2023 through 2045. 300 cases made, 100 cases element, yet overall this red feels balanced, with ample
cases imported.—B.S. imported.—B.S. fruit to offset the assertive tannins. Best from 2023 through
2039. 250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.

New Releases: Italy
92 Silvio Grasso Barolo Turnè 2016 $61 88 Giacomo Fenocchio Roero Arneis 2019 $20 ITALY
Cherry and strawberry fruit lead off, with iron, underbrush This version borders on oily in texture, boasting peach,
and tea notes in supporting roles. It quickly firms up, the litchi and rose flavors. It’s more exotic than most Arneis,
Tuscany / Toscana
lively acidity working in tandem with the dusty tannins. with a lightly bitter grapefruit finish. Drink now. 1,000
All the parts are there, with elements of the fruit return- cases made, 350 cases imported.—B.S.
96 Castellare di Castellina Toscana I Sodi di San
ing on the long finish. Best from 2023 through 2042. 250
Niccolò 2016 $100 The initial impression is a charred,
cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. 88 Oddero Riesling Langhe 2018 $26 Plump sweet oaky aroma, quickly revealing black cherry, plum,
and juicy, featuring peach, apple and lemon flavors ac- leather, tobacco, wild herb and iron flavors. There’s a cer-
92 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2016 $43 cented by a saline, savory note on the lingering finish. tain austerity too, accentuated by the dense, dusty tannins,
Though delicate in flavor, there is plenty of vibrant acid- Drink now through 2024. 250 cases made.—B.S. yet this is complex, balanced and long, with an acetic feel
ity and fine, dense tannins supporting this red. Strawberry, to the lingering finish. Needs time. Sangioveto and Mal-
cherry, tar and eucalyptus flavors are the main themes. 88 Prunotto Barbera d’Asti Fiulot 2019 $16 vasia Nera. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2023
Finishes compact. Best from 2023 through 2043. 1,500 A ripe and fruity red boasting black cherry, boysenberry, through 2048. 2,500 cases made, 800 cases imported.—B.S.
cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S. almond and earth flavors. Bright and lithe, with a mod-
erately long finish. Drink now. 1,300 cases imported.—B.S. 94 Simone Santini Toscana Tenuta Le Calcinaie
91 Silvio Grasso Barolo 2016 $38 A fragrant Teodoro 2016 $40 Expressive aromas of plum, black-
red, offering cherry, nutmeg and white pepper aromas, this 87 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti Le Orme 2017 berry and kirsch are augmented by wild herbs and savory
is austere, its shy fruit hiding behind the vibrant structure. $20 This red is muscular and tannic, displaying plum, underbrush in this intense, delineated red. Iron, tobacco
It’s slim and not too densely tannic, so should develop blackberry and a hint of tree bark. Tips to the dry side in and tea notes add even more layers. Solidly built and
over the short-term. Best from 2022 through 2037. 900 the balance. Drink now through 2025. 30,000 cases made, vibrant. Terrific length. One for the long haul. Sangio-
cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S. 12,000 cases imported.—B.S. vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2023
through 2045. 150 cases made, 20 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Armando Parusso Barolo 2016 $62 This is 87 Malvirà Roero Arneis 2019 $20 This fresh
all about sweet, ripe cherry and plum flavors mingling white offers peach and grapefruit flavors, backed by lively 93 Tenuta di Arceno Cabernet Franc-Merlot-
with balsamic notes of juniper, eucalyptus and thyme. Tar acidity. Easygoing and balanced, this is ideal for an aperi- Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana Arcanum 2015 $100
and sanguine accents chime in, with a solid grip of tan- tif. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 1,250 cases This shows fine purity to its black cherry, black currant
nins that pinch the finish for now. Best from 2023 through imported.—B.S. and iron flavors, despite its dense texture and massive tan-
2039. 2,416 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S. nins. There is freshness, balance and a chewy feel to the
87 Prunotto Monferrato Mompertone 2015 finish. Best from 2022 through 2033. 1,500 cases made,
$20 Rich and earthy, this rustic red evokes plum, cherry, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY stewed tomatoes and iron flavors. Barbera and Syrah.
Drink now. 1,300 cases imported.—B.S. 92 Le Mortelle Toscana Ampio 2016 $275
Piedmont / Other A ripe style, this offers plum, blackberry and vanilla aro-
mas and flavors with hints of earth and dark chocolate.
91 Coppo Nizza Pomorosso 2017 $58 An Firm tannins provide lift as the wine extends on the fruit-
opulent red, delivering broad brushstrokes of cherry, plum, and spice-filled finish. Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon
tar and sweet spices. It has assertive tannins, with enough and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2032. 547
ripe fruit to balance. Fine length. Drink now through cases made, 60 cases imported.—B.S.
2025. 150 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Icardi Barbera d’Asti Tabaren 2018 $15
Expressive, this red features intense aromas and flavors of
blackberry, boysenberry and pomegranate, singed by earth
and graphite. It’s dense, with a firm grip on the finish.
Drink now through 2024. 2,000 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Oddero Nizza 2017 $25 A linear style, ex-
hibiting black cherry and blackberry fruit, shaded by earth
and mineral notes. It’s dense and taut, with a fresh, tactile
finish. Drink now through 2025. 770 cases made.—B.S.
89 Elvio Cogno Nascetta Langhe Anas-cëtta
2019 $32 This white starts out with petrol, earth and
apricot aromas and flavors, picking up a salty, mineral
element as it builds on the palate. The vibrant structure
imparts a mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 1,260 cases
made.—B.S.
89 Paolo Conterno Barbera d’Asti Bricco 2018
$20 There are no edges to this supple red, setting the
stage for blackberry, black currant and tar flavors. Bal-
anced and focused, it leaves a mouthwatering impression.
Drink now. 1,400 cases made, 450 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Damilano Arneis Langhe 2019 $30
Textbook Arneis, offering peach, grapefruit and hints of
wild herbs matched to a juicy frame. It’s harmonious and
lingers with intensity and freshness. Drink now. 4,100
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Damilano Barbera d’Asti 2018 $25 A
black pepper accent adds punctuation to the blackberry
and blueberry flavors in this red, which has density and
persistence, with iron and earth elements on the finish.
Drink now through 2024. 5,800 cases made, 2,500 cases
imported.—B.S.
89 Marchesi di Grésy Barbera d’Asti Monte
Colombo 2013 $43 Black cherry, black currant,
leather, earth and sweet pipe tobacco aromas and flavors
highlight this beefy red. It’s lively and firm, needing food
to offset its dusty tannins. Drink now. 700 cases made, 25

New Releases: Italy
92 Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana Crognolo 2018 clean on the long, complex aftertaste. Drink now through peppercorn. Give this time to unfurl. Best from 2022
$45 A beam of bright cherry permeates this round, sup- 2033. 166 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S. through 2030. 5,500 cases made, 888 cases imported.—A.N.
ple red. Raspberry, earth, iron and tobacco notes play sup- 93 Petrolo Val d’Arno di Sopra Bòggina C 2018 91 Umani Ronchi Conero Cúmaro Riserva 2015
porting roles, while dusty tannins prevail on the finish. $75 This red smells great, revealing pure black cherry, $41 Finely knit and fresh, this sleek, medium- to full-
Sangiovese. Drink now through 2032. 12,500 cases made, blackberry and plum fruit, shaded by vanilla, cedar, iron bodied red offers a pleasing range of chopped black cherry,
4,000 cases imported.—B.S. and toasty oak. Rich and dense, staying fresh and focused dried thyme, Kalamata olive and fig cake flavors, defined
91 Podere Monastero Cabernet Sauvignon- on the extended finish. Sangiovese. Best from 2022 by with supple tannins. Ends with a lingering, spiced fin-
Merlot Toscana Campanaio 2018 $56 Rich and through 2038. 850 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S. ish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 400
cases imported.—A.N.
smooth, with a lush texture wrapped around concentrated 93 Selvapiana Pomino Villa Petrognano 2017
black cherry, blackberry, iron and baking spice flavors. $24 The sweet, smoky aroma of burning vine cuttings 90 La Stoppa Barbera Emilia della Stoppa
Turns a bit chunky on the finish, but there is fine overall introduces this enticing red. Black cherry and black cur- 2010 $38 A lip-smacking, tangy red, medium-bodied
balance and ample power and length. Cabernet Sauvi- rant flavors are framed by cedar, pencil shavings, tar and and silky in texture, with a pronounced sanguine over-
gnon and Merlot. Drink now through 2027. 500 cases tobacco. It firms up in the end, with beefy tannins and a tone—lots of iron, salt and leather—and accents of mac-
made, 150 cases imported.—B.S. lingering savory finish. Sangiovese. Best from 2022 erated cherry and singed orange peel. Distinctive, with
90 Antinori Malbec Toscana Fattoria Aldo- through 2035. 600 cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S. the lingering finish echoing a sweet smoky note. Drink
now through 2025. 300 cases imported.—A.N.
brandesca Vie Cave 2018 $33 Dark fruit tones of 92 Petrolo Val d’Arno di Sopra Bòggina A 2018
blackberry and blueberry take on graphite, earth and $75 A full-bodied, fleshy version, this red sports plum, 90 La Stoppa Emilia Trebbiolo 2018 $24
black pepper accents in this beefy red. The dense tannins cherry, iron and tobacco flavors. It’s dense, even chunky, Baked raspberry and plum fruit is juicy and expressive in
are well-integrated and this finishes with savory wild yet balanced and long on the mineral-streaked finish. this lively, light- to medium-bodied red, accented by notes
herb elements. Drink now through 2027. 350 cases Sangiovese. Drink now through 2033. 125 cases made, 25 of Mandarin orange zest, fig cake, wild sage and spice box.
imported.—B.S. cases imported.—B.S. Tangy on the lingering finish. Barbera and Bonarda. Drink
90 Tenuta now through 2023. 1,200 cases imported.—A.N.
Sette Ponti Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Petrolo Val d’Arno di Sopra Campo Lusso
Toscana Poggio al Lupo 2018 $50 This fresh red 2018 $130 Opulent and juicy, this red features intense 89 La Stoppa Emilia Macchiona 2010 $47
offers black currant, blackberry, cedar, tobacco and woodsy flavors of black currant, blackberry, iron, tobacco and Tus- A balanced red, medium-bodied and lightly creamy, with
flavors. Firmly structured, with a vibrant streak propelling can scrub. It’s dense too, firming up as it builds to a long hints of eucalyptus and pink peppercorn accenting the
the lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases finish. Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2032. dried black cherry, orange peel, smoke and leather. Light,
made, 300 cases imported.—B.S. 150 cases made, 15 cases imported.—B.S. dusty tannins firm the spiced finish. Barbera and Bonarda.
89 Drink now through 2023. 250 cases imported.—A.N.
Bindella Toscana Rosato Tenuta Vallocaia 91 Petrolo Val d’Arno di Sopra Torrione 2018
Gemella 2019 $20 A well-defined rosé, featuring $35 Straddles a Bordeaux character with Tuscan lean- 89 Umani Ronchi Rosso Conero San Lorenzo
cherry, strawberry and floral notes. It’s crisp and balanced, ings of wild herbs, tar and underbrush flanking the core 2017 $19 Round and mouthwatering, a medium-bodied
with a dry, spicy finish. Sangiovese and Syrah. Drink now. of black currant, blackberry and pencil shaving flavors. red featuring light, dusty tannins and a pleasing range of
800 cases made, 120 cases imported.—B.S. It’s firm and long, with a muscular grip on the finish. San- mulberry, fig cake, wild sage and anise flavors. Lingering
89 Renzo Masi Toscana Erta e China 2018 $15 giovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now finish. Drink now through 2025. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
through 2029. 4,100 cases made, 700 cases imported.—B.S.
This aromatic version boasts black cherry, blackberry, 88 Umani Ronchi Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Fonte
tar, graphite and black pepper flavors, with solid grip and 89 Simone Santini Vernaccia di San Gimignano del Re 2018 $24 Brambly boysenberry and black rasp-
a fresh, fruit-and-mineral finish. Sangiovese and Caber- Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vigna ai Sassi Riserva 2017 berry fruit flavors are framed by light tannins and tangy
net Sauvignon. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases $28 A harmonious, distinctive white for its floral, apple, acidity in this aromatic, medium-bodied red. Bright and
made, 300 cases imported.—B.S. earth, almond and pastry flavors. As it builds to a linger- balanced, with ample marjoram, rosehip and bergamot ac-
89 Salcheto Toscana White Obvius 2019 $19 ing finish, lemon and mineral elements emerge. Drink cents. Drink now through 2023. 100 cases imported.—A.N.
now. 580 cases made.—B.S.
This is rich and vibrant, offering peach, yellow apple, iron 87 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo by
and leesy, bread dough aromas and flavors. It’s firm, and 88 Simone Santini Vernaccia di San Gimignano Amphora 2017 $91 A medium-bodied red with lightly
lingers on the finish with a note of salted Marcona al- Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2019 $19 A mix of peach, apple, chalky tannins framing moderate flavors of steeped black
monds. Trebbiano and Vermentino. Drink now. 750 cases almond and earth flavors mark this rich white, which has cherry, tarry smoke, warm brown bread and spice. Chewy
made, 112 cases imported.—B.S. good cut and lingers with a fresh finish. Drink now. 3,300 finish. Drink now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
87 Bindella Sauvignon Blanc Toscana Tenuta cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S. 100 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N.
Vallocaia Gemella 2019 $20 A mix of peach and 87 Casal di Pari Montecucco Tenuta L’Impostino 86 Fattoria Zerbina Sangiovese Romagna
herbal, grassy notes, with a juicy texture and bright acid- Riserva 2015 $19 Smoke, wild rosemary and tar aro- Superiore Ceregio 2017 $16 A salty red, with ripe
ity. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, mas and flavors augment the plum and leather core in this black cherry flavor accented by notes of iron and dried
300 cases imported.—B.S. beefy red. Compact, tannic finish. Sangiovese, Syrah, sage. Light- to medium-bodied and fresh, with light tan-
87 Simone Santini Toscana Tenuta Le Calcinaie Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, nins on the finish. Drink now. 5,200 cases made, 552 cases
Ingredienti: Uva 2019 $22 This red is all about the 1,000 cases imported.—B.S. imported.—A.N.
fruit, boasting cherry, raspberry and tar flavors backed by 87 Le Mortelle Maremma Toscana White Vivia
bright acidity and light tannins. Moderate length. Sangio-
vese. Drink now. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
2019 $20 A sleek, focused white, whose melon, sage ITALY
and citrus flavors take on a saline edge as they play out Other / Sparkling
86 Teruzzi & Puthod Toscana White Terre di on the finish. Vermentino and Ansonica. Drink now. 60
Tufi 2018 $25 A fruity white, sporting peach, apple, cases imported.—B.S. 92 Ca’ del Bosco Francia-
lemon and light herb notes. Juicy, almost creamy in tex- 87 Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia di San Gimi- corta Annamaria Clementi
ture, with a lip-smacking finish. Vernaccia, Chardonnay gnano Isola Bianca 2019 $15 A floral top note gives Riserva 2009 $110 A minerally
and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 300 way to apple, melon and graphite flavors in this crisp Franciacorta with hints of oyster
cases imported.—B.S. white. Moderate length. Drink now. 6,000 cases made, shell and chalk accenting the deli-
500 cases imported.—B.S. cate range of raspberry and wild
strawberry fruit, with candied gin-
ITALY ger, preserved lemon flavor and
Tuscany / Other ITALY Marcona almond notes. Satinlike MAURIZIO ZANELLA
Other / Red in texture and harmonious, with a Owner
97 Rocca di Montegrossi Vin Santo del Chianti lasting, creamy finish. Disgorged summer 2018. Drink now
Classico 2009 $79/375ml A thick, honeyed dessert 92 Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino through 2029. 130 cases imported.—A.N.
white boasting caramel, fig, dark-roasted coffee beans, Collepiano 2015 $53 Delicate pine and marjoram
walnut and brown butter flavors. Its luscious texture is aromatics lace flavors of plumped black cherry and wild
matched by a vibrant acidity, keeping this focused and strawberry fruit in this dense, full-bodied red. Tightly
meshed, with accents of graphite, licorice and ground pink

New Releases: Italy
92 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosage Zéro 89 Bortolotti Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Supe- 90 Antinori Chardonnay Umbria Bramìto della
2014 $75 Firm and racy, this tightly knit version lay- riore 47 U. Bortolotti NV $26 A fresh, harmonious Sala 2019 $22 See Smart Buys, page 100.
ers flavors of melon and pear fruit, salted almond and grated Prosecco, with a delicate mousse carrying ripe pear, candied
ginger on a plush mousse. There’s a lot of drive here, but lemon zest and anise flavors, showing a touch of minerally 90 Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
reined into an elegant package. Disgorged autumn 2018. petrol that lingers on the creamy finish. Drink now through Classico Superiore Luzano 2018 $17 A subtle streak
Drink now through 2029. 50 cases imported.—A.N. 2022. 3,300 cases made, 20 cases imported.—A.N. of salinity underscores flavors of baked peach, preserved
lemon and almond biscotti in this lightly creamy, light-
92 Ca’ del Bosco Rosé Franciacorta Annamaria 89 Contadi Castaldi Brut Franciacorta NV $25 to medium-bodied white. Fresh and balanced, with hints
Clementi Riserva 2009 $135 A finely knit Francia- Lightly creamy and fresh, this is Franciacorta in an apéri- of chamomile and spice on the finish. Drink now through
corta rosé, layering sleek acidity and a lacy mousse with tif style, offering balance and delicate notes of white 2023. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
flavors of steeped cherry, pink grapefruit pith, pickled gin- cherry, candied lemon zest, anise and toast point. Drink
ger and smoked almond. Clean-cut and savory on the now. 105,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N. 88 Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
mineral-laced finish. Disgorged winter 2018. Drink now Classico Albiano 2018 $14 A zippy, light-bodied
through 2027. 25 cases imported.—A.N. 89 Maso Martis Brut Rosé Trento 2015 $56 white, with yellow pear, blanched almond, lemon pith
Lithe and well-cut, this pretty, ballet slipper–pink rosé and sea salt flavors on a balanced, creamy palate. Drink
92 Maso Martis Brut Trento Madame Martis offers a delicate range of toasted almond, white cherry now through 2022. 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
Riserva 2009 $170 An elegant sparkler, marrying and anise, with a streak of salty minerality extending on
the firm spine of acidity with a refined mousse and flavors the finish. Disgorged 2019. Drink now. 666 cases made, 88 Santa Cristina Umbria White 2019 $13
of chopped hazelnut, ripe pear, pastry cream and grated 60 cases imported.—A.N. Lightly zesty and fresh, a light-bodied white with a stony
ginger. Well-knit and creamy, with a lingering, zesty fin- base note and flavors of green melon, lime zest and pick-
ish. Lovely. Disgorged February 2019. Drink now through 88 Contadi Castaldi Brut Rosé Franciacorta led ginger. Grechetto, Procanico and Viognier. Drink now
2029. 83 cases made, 10 cases imported.—A.N. NV $25 Fresh and balanced, this lively Franciacorta through 2023.—A.N.
rosé displays hints of blanched almond, dried white cherry
91 Bellavista Brut Rosé Franciacorta 2015 $50 and pink grapefruit pith. Clean-cut and minerally on the 88 Fattoria Zerbina Romagna Albana Secco
Aromatic accents of licorice, smoke and rose petal are finish. Drink now. 22,500 cases made, 2,000 cases Bianco di Ceperano 2018 $19 A chive blossom hint
layered with dried cherry, toasted brioche and almond imported.—A.N. offers an aromatic thread through the tangy flavors of tan-
flavors in this vibrant Franciacorta rosé. It’s well-knit and gerine and white peach in this lively, light-bodied white,
racy, with a fine, zesty mousse that carries the flavor range 87 Bellenda Extra Dry Prosecco Treviso Levis ending with a lip-smacking, salty finish. Drink now
through to the lingering finish. Drink now through 2025. NV $18 Juicy flavors of ripe nectarine, grated ginger through 2023. 1,625 cases made, 645 cases imported.—A.N.
4,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.N. and candied pink grapefruit zest are enlivened by bright
acidity in this balanced Prosecco with a lacy bead. Drink 87 Antinori Orvieto Classico Santa Cristina
91 Ca’ del Bosco Extra Brut Franciacorta Cuvée now. 16,000 cases made, 5,800 cases imported.—A.N. Campogrande 2019 $13 A bright white, light-bodied
Prestige NV $40 Fine and harmonious, with mouth- and lithe, with an engaging mix of passion fruit, peach,
watering acidity enlivening well-meshed flavors of bri- 87 Bortolotti Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Pro- Meyer lemon zest and stone flavors. Creamy. Drink now.
oche, poached apricot and candied pink grapefruit peel. secco Superiore NV $21 Balanced, fresh and lacy on 3,800 cases made.—A.N.
Snappy, mineral-laced finish. Disgorged spring 2019. the palate, with a stony underpinning and delicate notes
Drink now through 2025. 4,000 cases imported.—A.N. of Gala apple, peach skin and blanched almond. Drink
now. 17,000 cases made, 700 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Satèn 2014 $75
Soft and creamy in texture, this elegant Franciacorta lay- 86 Cleto Chiarli e Figli Secco Lambrusco
ers rich notes of pastry cream and lemon curd with white Grasparossa di Castelvetro Organic NV $14 Fresh
cherry and apricot fruit. It’s lightly toasty on the lingering and tangy, with blackberry and wild cherry fruit accented
finish. Disgorged autumn 2018. Drink now through 2025. by red licorice and dried sage notes. Round and creamy Bring Tuscan excellence
on the finish. Drink now. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases
50 cases imported.—A.N.
imported.—A.N. to your table.
91 Ca’ del Bosco Rosé Franciacorta Cuvée
Prestige NV $60 A balanced rosé, framed by lively 86 Colutta Brut Prosecco NV $16 A well- www.castellidelgrevepesa.it
acidity, with a lacy mousse offering a pretty range of dried balanced version, with a lively backbone of acidity and a
cherry, Mandarin orange peel, red licorice and chopped al- pretty mix of apple blossom, white peach and slivered
mond. The salty finish is bright and zesty. Disgorged spring almond flavors. Drink now. 1,665 cases made, 350 cases
2019. Drink now through 2025. 85 cases imported.—A.N. imported.—A.N.
90 Bellavista BrutFranciacorta Alma Gran

Cuvée NV $30 A minerally version, with accents of ITALY
petrol and brine on the nose transitioning to flavors of Other / White
crunchy pear, candied lemon zest and almond biscotti on
the palate. It’s fresh and balanced, with a crisp, lacy mousse 92 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
and more mineral character singing on the finish. Drink Classico Superiore Vecchie Vigne 2017 $38 A
now through 2025. 10,000 cases made.—A.N. well-cut, light- to medium-bodied white, with a snappy
tang of salinity enmeshed with flavors of yellow melon,
90 Bellavista Brut Franciacorta La Scala 2015 anise, dried apricot and Marcona almond. Long and
$44 Candied lime zest, chopped hazelnut, black cherry mouthwatering on the petrol-laced finish. Drink now
and berry flavors are set in this firm Franciacorta, backed through 2027. 1,350 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N.
by lively acidity and riding the crunchy mousse. It’s snappy
but well-balanced; with a note of chalky minerality lin- 91 La Stoppa Emilia Ageno 2015 $47 Deeply
gering on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 10,000 hued, this is the color of burnished brass, with ample spice,
cases made, 450 cases imported.—A.N. leather and graphite on the nose and winding through
flavors of macerated white raspberry and apricot, berga-
90 Maso Martis Brut Trento Magnum Riserva mot and almond skin flavors. It’s lightly chalky in texture,
2014 $80/1.5L Mouthwatering, with notes of Meyer and mouthwatering, with rapierlike acidity. A bright, ex- Vintage 2016 Vintage 2015
lemon zest and lime blossom weaving through flavors of pressive version for fans of the style. Drink now through
poached apricot and toasted hazelnut. Well-balanced and Wine Spectator Wine Spectator
2025. 250 cases imported.—A.N. 91 POINTS 93 POINTS
creamy in texture, with a lively lingering finish. Disgorged
2019. Drink now through 2023. 125 cases made.—A.N. 91 Umani Ronchi Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio SMART BUY
Riserva Classico Plenio 2017 $38 A sleek, creamy
90 Maso Martis Trento Dosaggio Zero Riserva white, with a minerally petrol note underscoring flavors
2015 $56 Firm, with a lively bead, this shows pastry baked yellow plum, lightly toasted almond, fleur de sel
dough and saline hints underscoring ripe melon, grilled nut and honeycomb. It’s light- to medium-bodied, with a lin-
and poached apricot flavors. Creamy and well-knit, with a gering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2025. 150 cases
racy, lightly spiced finish. Disgorged 2019. Drink now imported.—A.N.
through 2023. 416 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N. US Importer: Votto Vines, Hamden, CT
www.vottovines.com

New Releases: Italy / Portugal / South Africa
Open up your
87 Umani Ronchi Pecorino Terre di Chieti 89 Fitapreta Portugal Signature Series Pote
Vellodoro 2019 $17 This light-bodied and snappy de Barro NV $43 A peppery red with earth and leafy
white is crowd-pleasing for its balanced and lively mix of undertones flanking dark currant and boysenberry fruit
nectarine, pink grapefruit sorbet and lemon thyme flavors. matched with graphite, tobacco and underbrush elements.
Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N. Hints of dark bitter chocolate detail the tannic finish.
— Newsletters.WineSpectator.com — Very unique but appealing in freshness. Drink now through
86 Fazi-Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2023. 162 cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.
Classico 2019 $11 Aromatic with lemon peel, sage
Get the scoop on how wine
and brine notes, this balanced white is light-bodied and 88 Azores Wine Company Açores Rosé
intersects with film, TV, music, fresh, offering tangy flavors of melon rind and white peach. Vulcânico 2019 $28 A crisp rosé, with tangerine and
sports, politics and more, Drink now. 44,444 cases made, 1,038 cases imported.—A.N. melon notes flanked with spice, sea breeze and floral de-
delivered every other week.
tails, followed by a mineral-laced finish. Saborinho,
Touriga Nacional, Aragonês and Agronomica. Drink now.
PORTUGAL 533 cases made, 325 cases imported.—G.S.
92 Azores Wine Company Açores Saborzinho 88 Quinta de Chocapalha Lisboa 2016 $15

2015 $215 There’s a brown tinge to this red with a Supple flavors of currant and plum show nice purity in
delicately crafted, unique profile of strawberry, sea breeze this open-knit red, with savory underpinnings of anise,
Love the restaurant world? This and iodine, seamless and fragrant. Elements of rose petal, herb, mineral and mocha that fine-tune the spicy finish.
newsletter puts the spotlight on Wine Drink now through 2024. 2,150 cases made.—G.S.
Spectator’s award-winning wine lists. spice and wild herb are supported by moderate, integrated
Plus, chef comings and goings, and tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 59 cases
Sommelier Talk. made, 30 cases imported.—G.S. 88 Poças Junior Douro Rosé 2019 $28
A lively acidity weaves through the melon and tangerine
92 Quinta de Chocapalha Lisboa Vinha Mãe notes of this rosé, with spice, herb and white raspberry
2016 $50 Distinctive, with floral and wild herb notes details tracing into the finish. Mouthwatering. Touriga
This email alerts you when we’ve weaving through boysenberry and plum fruit, permeated Nacional and Touriga Franca. Drink now. 1,800 cases
added new wines from your with graphite and cedar details through the anise, violet made, 350 cases imported.—G.S.
favorite regions to our database.
and woodsy spice flavors on the long finish, with dusty tan-
Just set up your preferences and
we do the rest! nins. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Syrah. Drink now 87 Casa Santos Lima Lisboa Lisbonita 2018 $12
through 2026. 975 cases made, 75 cases imported.—G.S. Medium-bodied, with plush tannins encasing dark cherry
and briar fruit that’s nicely detailed with anise, savory
92 Quinta da Romaneira Syrah Duriense spice and mineral accents. Clean, lingering finish.
Apontador 2017 $55 Well-spiced with raspberry tart Castelão, Tinta Roriz, Syrah and Touriga Franca. Drink
Get a great new value wine and licorice-laced cherry flavors backed by mocha and now through 2023. 35,000 cases made, 20,000 cases
recommendation in each weekly floral details. Elements of olive, mineral, mocha and clove imported.—G.S.
edition, plus recipes and tips on
dovetail on the long, velvety finish. Drink now through
wine, food and travel.
2026. 200 cases made, 25 cases imported.—G.S. 86 Casa Santos Lima Lisboa Bons Ventos 2018
$12 Ripe dark cherry and raspberry fruit is accented
91 Quinta do Noval Petit Verdot Duriense with dark chocolate, anise and graphite details in this
2017 $78 Ripe red plum and currant notes are cast supple, medium-bodied red. Savory elements of herb and
with pepper, underbrush and zesty details in this concen- spice mark the finish. Castelão, Camarate and Touriga
Learn how wine can contribute to a trated, focused red. Firm tannins show some grip, with Nacional. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 3,500 cases
healthy lifestyle, with our biweekly anise, mineral and herb notes lining the finish. Drink now imported.—G.S.
reports on new research, plus
through 2027. 450 cases made.—G.S.
wellness tips.
86 Nortico Minho Rosé 2019 $16 This rosé
91 Quinta da Romaneira Syrah Duriense 2017 is more deeply hued, with a slightly frothy texture
$34 Polished tannins surround the boysenberry, olive offering licorice-infused cherry, tangerine and floral notes,
and wild herb notes of this supple, concentrated red, with followed by a crisp, candied finish. Pedral, Alvarelhão
rich underpinnings of mocha and anise yielding to min- and Vinhão. Drink now. 2,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
A new collectible wine pick in eral and meaty flavors on the long finish. Complex and imported.—G.S.
each biweekly edition, plus elegant. Drink now through 2025. 750 cases made, 50
expert tips on collecting, auction
cases imported.—G.S.
news and analysis.
SOUTH AFRICA
90 Quinta do Noval Duriense Cedro do Noval
2017 $24 Nicely textured, with seamless, integrated 93 Ashbourne Pinotage Hemel-en-Aarde Val-
tannins supporting the juicy red plum and cherry flavors. ley 2017 $58 Offers grace and complexity, with a beam
Don’t miss a single video. Our free, A touch of licorice adds some richness, with savory ele- of ripe raspberry and rose tea streaming throughout, while
biweekly e-mail newsletter alerts you ments of herb and spice lingering on the minerally finish. cola and light anise elements add to the allure. The fine
to every new video, plus favorites from Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Touriga Francesa and Tinta Cão. underlying acidity keeps everything intact, gives this fresh-
our vault.
Drink now through 2025. 4,166 cases made, 200 cases ness and letting the finish sail on nicely. Drink now
imported.—G.S. through 2027. 207 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
FOR THE TRADE
90 Quinta da Romaneira
91 Ashbourne Pinotage Hemel-en-Aarde Val-
ley 2018 $58 Vibrant version that combines elegance
Petit Verdot Duriense 2017
with just the right amount of power. Opens up with mint
$34 There’s concentration to the
News, features and new product before the palate turns to show Damson plum, black cur-
ripe plum and blackberry flavors
announcements for wine and rant, violet, vanilla and tangy mineral, which adds inter-
spirits retailers that are richly detailed with dark
est. Long, elegant finish. Best from 2022 through 2032.
chocolate and floral accents. Dis-
224 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
tinct herb, savory spice and anise
notes linger on the tannic finish. 89 Kanonkop Kadette Stellenbosch 2018
Drink now through 2025. 500 cases $18 A pure, well-crafted red, offering stewed plum
Fun.
CHRISTIAN SEELY
made, 50 cases imported.—G.S. Managing Director and mulberry flavors accented by notes of vanilla and
cardamom. Shows both density and elegance, with a
Informative. 89 Fitapreta Alentejano Rosé Cuvée nº4 NV
$28 White cherry and tart raspberry notes have a salty
slightly chewy tannic structure on the well-defined finish.
Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Free. undertone is this fresh rosé, underscored with floral, spice
and citrusy elements. Distinctive. Castelão, Trincadeira
and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2024. 3,793 cases
imported.—A.Z.
Sign up for Wine Spectator’s e-newsletters at and Aragonez. Drink now. 333 cases made, 100 cases
imported.—G.S.
Newsletters.WineSpectator.com

New Releases: South Africa / Spain
88 Glenelly Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 89 Bodegas Vallobera Graciano Rioja 2017 and spicy, yet kept lively by tangerine acidity. The spicy
Glass Collection 2018 $18 Currant and raspberry $26 Polished and balanced, this red offers black cherry finish is long and clean. Drink now through 2022. 150
paste flavors form the core here, with light anise and blood and currant flavors backed by smoky, mineral and forest cases made, 75 cases imported.—T.M.
orange notes well-integrated through the finish. Offers a floor notes. The acidity is lively, the tannins light but firm. 92 Virgen del Galir Godello Valdeorras Maruxa
solid, slightly racy finish that invites you for another sip. Drink now through 2025. 3,166 cases made.—T.M. 2019 $19 This white is sneaky intense. Subtle aromas
Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.—A.Z. of chalk and heather give way to expressive flavors of pear,
88 Hacienda Lopez de Haro Rioja Crianza 2017
mango and sea salt. Well-integrated acidity provides a
87 Man Vintners Syrah Coastal Region $13 See Best Values, page 102.
firm structure that gives way to a long, juicy finish. Drink
Skaapveld 2018 $12 See Best Values, page 102.
88 Bodegas de la Marquesa Rioja Rosado now through 2025. 300 cases imported.—T.M.
86 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah Swartland Porcu- Valserrano 2019 $22 This lively rosado straddles the
91 Adegas A Coroa Godello Valdeorras 2019
pine Ridge 2019 $13 Open and direct, with nice traditional and Provençal styles. Snappy flavors of cherry,
weight, showing plum, mulled blackberry and vanilla watermelon and bay leaf mingle over lively acidity, with $18 This firm white shows some power, with tangy acid-
notes. Not too complex, but would please a crowd. Drink a light touch of tannin. Has plenty of structure for food. ity and a touch of tannins supporting the pear, heather
now. 600 cases imported.—A.Z. Drink now. 250 cases made, 40 cases imported.—T.M. and chalky flavors. A bit austere, but balanced and deep.
Drink now through 2025. 6,000 cases made, 200 cases
85 Indaba Merlot Western Cape 2019 $12 88 Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Rivallana Crianza imported.—T.M.
Richer version, showing blueberry flavors with a smoky 2017 $18 This red has an appealing savory element,
edge. Tannins are ripe and well-integrated. Moderate with tobacco, sanguine and loamy earth notes framing 91 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Garnacha Campo
length. Drink now. 3,350 cases imported.—A.Z. berry, cherry and leafy flavors. Offers light tannins and de Borja Veraton 2017 $32 Rich and velvety, this
gentle acidity. Drink now through 2024. 11,000 cases ripe red delivers plum pudding, cherry preserves, cocoa
made, 5,000 cases imported.—T.M. and toasty flavors in a generous, fruit-centered style.
SPAIN Abundant in everything—fruit, oak and alcohol—but
Rioja 88 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Alberdi Reserva stays balanced. Drink now through 2023. 7,300 cases
2015 $22 Tobacco, tea and spice notes accent dried made, 3,800 cases imported.—T.M.
92 La Rioja Alta Rioja 904 cherry and forest floor flavors in this traditional red. It’s
light but firm, with tangy acidity and a spicy finish. Drink 90 Bodem Garnacha Cariñena Las Margas
Gran Reserva 2011 $66 This 2018 $14 A plush texture carries ripe fruit flavors in
supple red shows maturity, with for- now through 2025. 14,500 cases imported.—T.M.
this rich red. Bing cherry, red plum and currant are framed
est floor, mushroom and cedar notes 87 Bodegas Garcia de Olano Rioja Alavesa by vanilla and toast. With well-integrated tannins and
framing dried cherry and tea flavors. Heredad Garcia de Olano Crianza 2017 $13 Smoky gentle acidity, there are no sharp edges here. Drink now
The silky texture is supported by and tarry notes frame currant, anise and loamy earth fla- through 2024. 1,944 cases made.—T.M.
light tannins and orange-peel acid- vors in this firm red. Chewy tannins give it a rustic char-
ity. A traditional style, balanced and acter. Drink now through 2023. 6,667 cases made.—T.M. 90 Bodegas Casa Rojo Monastrell Jumilla
harmonious. Tempranillo and Gra- Macho Man 2017 $27 This fruit-centered red is full
ciano. Drink now through 2025. GUILLERMO DE
ARANZABAL 87 Bodegas Proelio Rioja Crianza 2017 $16 of black cherry, plum and currant flavors, with smoke and
3,800 cases imported.—T.M. President This red offers black cherry and plum fruit accented by earth notes and a crisp herbal edge adding tension. Well-
loamy earth and licorice notes. Balanced and approach- integrated tannins and balsamic acidity give structure.
92 Torre de Oña Rioja Finca Martelo Reserva able, with light tannins and gentle acidity. Drink now Bold, in the modern style. 11,000 cases made, 420 cases
imported.—T.M.
2015 $39 Supple, polished and harmonious, this red through 2023. 5,000 cases made, 900 cases imported.—T.M.
shows cherry, tea, vanilla, leafy and spicy notes, with mod- 90 Bodega Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Rueda 2019
est and balanced tannins and acidity. A bit reserved, but
has focus and length. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and SPAIN $14 See Best Values, page 101.
Viura. Drink now through 2027. 550 cases imported.—T.M. Other 89 Capçanes Montsant Potente 2018 $32
A velvety texture carries savory and fruit flavors in this
91 Bodegas Vallobera Rioja Finca Vallobera 92 Bodegas Aragonesas Garnacha Campo de generous red. Black cherry and red plum mingle with
2017 $24 This red is graceful, but with an appealing Borja Coto de Hayas Centenaria 2018 $16 See Best mountain herb, smoke and tarry notes, backed by light
rough edge. A core of black cherry and plum is accented Values, page 101. tannins and balsamic acidity. Balanced and fresh. Garna-
by mineral, smoky and anise notes that turn slightly ani- cha, Merlot, Cariñena and Syrah. Drink now through
mal, in a good way. Moderate tannins and balsamic acid- 92 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Málaga No. 3 Old Vines 2026. 4,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—T.M.
ity give a balanced structure. Drink now through 2024. 2016 $60/375ml This thick, golden white offers
960 cases made, 8 cases imported.—T.M. luscious flavors of golden raisin, caramel and sea salt, sweet
90 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Baron de Chirel

Reserva 2015 $80 Cedar, tobacco and spice notes
give this smooth red a traditional character, framing cherry
and leafy flavors supported by firm tannins and orange
peel acidity. It’s balanced and fresh. Drink now through
2023. 6,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Torre de Oña Rioja Finca San Martín Crianza
2017 $17 This red has subtle flavors yet good density,
with black cherry, licorice, leafy and mineral notes. The
smooth, polished texture is supported by well-integrated
tannins and balsamic acidity. Should become more ex-
pressive with time. Drink now through 2024. 425 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Vallobera Rioja Terran 2017 $50
Shows heft for the vintage, with a thick texture, firm tan-
nins, ripe black fruit flavors and plenty of toasty oak. A
bit blunt now, but should become more expressive with
some time in bottle. Best from 2022 through 2030. 316
cases made, 21 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Crianza 2017 $20
This solid red is reserved but shows good density, with
black cherry and plum flavors mingling with notes of
loamy earth, anise and tar, backed by firm tannins and
balsamic acidity. Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano.
Drink now through 2027. 60,000 cases imported.—T.M.

New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California
89 Virgen del Galir Godello Valdeorras Pagos 93 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 92 Five Gold Hands Cabernet Sauvignon
del Galir 2019 $21 This firm white shows a savory John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2018 $125 Juicy, with Oakville The Conspirator 2017 $85 This has a plush
side, with herbal and chalky notes that give way to ripe plum and blackberry notes that meld nicely with hints of feel, with a broad swath of crushed plum, warm cassis,
peach, mango and tangerine flavors. It has bright acidity sassafras and bay. Lightly brambly along the edges, with a menthol, bay leaf and loam notes that cruise together from
and a clean finish. Drink now through 2022. 2,900 cases nice tug of earth through the middle, leaving a loamy echo start to finish. Best from 2021 through 2032. 500 cases
made, 400 cases imported.—T.M. amidst the fruit and savory notes on the finish. Best from made.—J.M.
2021 through 2031. 4,032 cases made.—J.M.
89 Virgen del Galir Godello Valdeorras Reg- 92 Geodesy Sage Ridge Vineyard Napa Valley
ueirón 2018 $50 This sleek white offers delicate Asian 93 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap 2017 $175 This is an interesting mix of crushed logan-
pear, grapefruit peel, tarragon and sea salt flavors, with firm District District Collection 2017 $108 A lush, pol- berry, açai and plum fruit mixed liberally with melted
acidity giving way to a mineral and floral finish. Shows ished style, with velvety waves of cassis, warmed plum licorice, fruitcake and chocolate notes. Polished and
focus and energy. Drink now. 33 cases imported.—T.M. sauce and blackberry preserves rolling through, all seam- rounded through the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Caber-
lessly inlaid with licorice and apple wood accents. The net Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink now
88 Bodegas Valduero Viño de la Tierra de fruit stays vivid and intense through the finish. Best from through 2027. 547 cases made.—J.M.
Castilla y León White 2019 $13 This rich white 2021 through 2032. 121 cases made.—J.M.
offers a plush texture, with modest but harmonious flavors 92 Steven Kent Cabernet Sauvignon Livermore
of pear, dried herb and smoke. The acidity is gentle but 93 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Valley The Premier 2017 $125 Ripe and seductive,
light tannins give it grip. Balanced, clean. Drink now. District Collection 2017 $125 Polished and ripe, with crushed plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit that
3,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.—T.M. with alluring cassis and mulled plum fruit flavors gliding melds nicely with hints of sassafras, anise and bay as it
atop a polished structure, with subtle alder, violet and moves along. Ample toast on the finish, but it’s integrated,
87 Bodega Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Rueda Amigo loam accents filtering through as well. A stylish Caber- letting the fruit and savory notes play out nicely. Best from
Fiel 2019 $10 This savory white has a fleshy texture, net, with some latent depth and grip in reserve. Best from 2021 through 2028. 165 cases made.—J.M.
but crisp acidity keeps it taut. Herbal and chalky notes 2021 through 2031. 124 cases made.—J.M.
frame modest flavors of pear and grapefruit pith. Drink 92 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oak
now. 25,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—T.M. 93 Yao Family Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Knoll District of Napa Valley Vaca Vista Vineyard
Valley Yao Ming Family Reserve 2017 $258 Very 2018 $135 Solid, structured and slightly old school,
87 Bodegas Frontonio Garnacha Campo de expressive, with lots of bay, menthol and sassafras notes with a core of red and black currant fruit held in check for
Borja Selección El Casetero 2018 $11 This fresh leading off, followed by alluring cassis, cherry and plum now by strident tannins and notes of warm loam and cast
red is light and bright, with berry and cherry flavors ac- purée flavors. Nice integration through the lengthy finish iron. There’s freshness and a violet note buried here, so
cented with herb and vanilla. It has gentle tannins and too. Drink now through 2031. 300 cases made.—J.M. worth waiting for this to unwind fully. A bit of a bruiser
citrusy acidity. Drink now through 2022. 4,000 cases made, now. Best from 2022 through 2032. 3,118 cases made.—J.M.
400 cases imported.—T.M. 92 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
Valley Chateau Buena Vista 2017 $50 Bright and 92 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
86 Bodegas Frontonio Macabeo Campo de overt in feel, with a nice welcoming blast of açaí berry, Martin Stelling Vineyard 2018 $185 Inviting style,
Borja Selección El Casetero 2019 $11 This lively plum and blackberry fruit that has melded nicely with with a gush of warm plum and blackberry aromas and fla-
white offers peach, lime and orange blossom flavors that hints of alder, sassafras and bay leaf. Shows good energy vors at first, followed by graphite, alder and licorice root
make a gentle impression yet remain juicy thanks to cit- throughout, with enough grip to cellar short-term. Best accents on the solidly built finish. Best from 2021 through
rusy acidity. Drink now. 1,125 cases made, 400 cases from 2021 through 2028. 6,417 cases made.—J.M. 2031. 461 cases made.—J.M.
imported.—T.M.
92 Christophe Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap 92 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Yount-
86 Pago de Larrainzar Navarra Angel 2018 $16 District Explorer’s Series 2017 $70 Dark and winey, ville State Ranch 2018 $125 This is well-built, with
This red is plump and fresh. Candied cherry, plum and with an intense beam of crushed black currant and black- cassis, crushed plum and blackberry fruit flavors that
leafy flavors mingle with smoky and tarry notes. Light berry reduction flavors inlaid with a graphite spine and stretch out slowly and surely, inlaid with graphite, sweet
tannins and balsamic acidity add backbone. Merlot, Tem- backed by licorice snap, violet and roasted apple wood tobacco and violet accents throughout. Ample tarry grip
pranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha. Drink now accents. A brushstroke of tar coats the finish while the on the back end will need some cellaring to unwind. Best
through 2022. 2,250 cases made, 400 cases imported.—T.M. fruit pumps through. Best from 2021 through 2032. 101 from 2022 through 2032. 4,881 cases made.—J.M.
cases made.—J.M.
92 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
United States 92 Christophe Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Generations 2017 $135 This is solid, with mulled
Explorer’s Series 2017 $80 This offers a zesty mix plum and blackberry fruit forming the core while notes of
of loganberry and blackberry fruit liberally laced with sas- bay, sassafras, tobacco and alder weave around. Nice loamy
CALIFORNIA safras, bay leaf and wood spice accents. A sliver of alder tug through the finish, with the fruit keeping pace. Best
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends runs through the finish, which has nice energy and focus. from 2021 through 2031. 1,208 cases made.—J.M.
Best from 2021 through 2029. 97 cases made.—J.M.
93 Goldschmidt Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
92 Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Mise
Game Ranch 2016 $85 Very solid, with a core of
92 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley en Place 2017 $80 Solid, with a muscular feel to the
2017 $200 Fleshy and forward at first, with delicious mix of red and black currant paste, dried anise, singed ce-
warmed cassis, steeped plum and mulled raspberry fruit
plum and blackberry compote flavors laced with dark lico- dar and savory notes which pull together tightly on the
backed by alder, red tea and savory notes. Nice iron-tinged
rice and roasted cedar notes. Fleshes out with some air in structured finish. Best from 2022 through 2032. 800 cases
minerality emerges on the finish, adding a pleasantly
the glass, showing nice length, a well-buried iron note made.—J.M.
rugged hint. Best from 2021 through 2032. 500 cases
and latent grip for cellaring. Best from 2021 through 2032.
made.—J.M.
860 cases made.—J.M. 91 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Stags
Leap District 2018 $100 Juicy, with an up-front per-
93 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
sonality showing açai berry, plum and boysenberry notes,
Air Show Vineyard 2018 $125 Focused style, with a 92 Davis Estates Cabernet
with red licorice and sweet spice accents. The fleshy finish
beam of red and black currant preserve flavors racing Sauvignon Napa Valley Phase
V 2017 $225 Dark and dense in keeps the fruit pumping through, with a light briar streak
through, backed by a graphite edge. Latent grip on the
style, with warmed cocoa, steeped for cut. Drink now through 2030. 14,434 cases made.—J.M.
tar- and bay-edged finish. Should develop nicely in the
cellar. Best from 2022 through 2032. 2,208 cases plum and blackberry fruit, showing 91 Davis Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
made.—J.M. notes of toasted alder and tobacco. Valley 2017 $85 Polished and direct, with plum and
A big swath of loam rolls through cherry sauce flavors gliding through, backed by tobacco
93 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville at the end. Best from 2021 through MIKE DAVIS and roasted alder notes. Picks up a smoldering bay edge
Branding Iron 2018 $125 Offers a well of açai berry, 2030. 444 cases made.—J.M. Owner
on the finish, along with some tarry grip. Best from 2021
plum and blackberry fruit to draw on, with extra sweet
through 2028. 745 cases made.—J.M.
spice, licorice, bay and sassafras accents adding range. The
92 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
finish pumps along nicely, pulling everything together.
Well built. Best from 2022 through 2033. 3,019 cases
2018 $145 This has good energy, with a brambly spine 91 Five Gold Hands The Conspirator Oakville
driving plum and black currant fruit along while a solid 2017 $50 Polished, with cassis and cherry purée notes
made.—J.M. gliding through, laced with subtle licorice and sweet spice
bolt of iron runs underneath. Savory and bay accents hang
in the background throughout. Best from 2021 through hints. Flicker of sassafras at the very end. Cabernet and
2031. 19,535 cases made.—J.M. Merlot. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases made.—J.M.

New Releases: California
91 Steven Kent Cabernet Sauvignon Livermore 90 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 92 Journeyman Chardonnay Russian River
Valley Ghielmetti Vineyard 2017 $65 Lush and Valley 2018 $50 Dark and winey, with layers of cas- Valley 2018 $48 Voluptuous and full-flavored, with
warm in feel, with creamed plum and raspberry purée fla- sis, blackberry paste and fig rolling through, showing ac- concentrated apple pastry and glazed pear components
vors seamlessly inlaid with light savory, tobacco and singed cents of singed alder and warm earth. A tobacco leaf note loaded with sage and cream accents. The creamy finish is
vanilla notes. Polished feel through the finish while keep- chimes in through the grippy finish. Solid, if a bit burly in filled with dried sage notes. Drink now through 2025. 312
ing nice detail. Best from 2021 through 2027. 199 cases feel. Best from 2021 through 2028. 5,880 cases made.—J.M. cases made.—K.M.
made.—J.M.
90 Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Auteur Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Durell
91 Lineage Wine Company Livermore Valley 2018 $33 Ripe and juicy, with a forward profile of dark Vineyard 2018 $55 A rich and spicy style, with con-
2017 $175 Ripe and stylish, with a velvety edge to the plum and blackberry fruit backed by hints of anise, mocha centrated baked apple, pear and dried mango flavors backed
plum, purée, raspberry reduction and cassis notes that roll and singed vanilla. A flash of savory in the background by firm acidity. Brioche and butter cream notes on the fin-
through, laced with subtle signed woodspice, savory and keeps this honest. Drink now through 2026. 14,640 cases ish. Drink now through 2024. 125 cases made.—K.M.
mineral accents. There’s a toasty edge on the finish, but it’s made.—J.M.
judicious. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Mer- 91 Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros 2019 $38
lot. Best from 2021 through 2027. 332 cases made.—J.M. 89 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Buttery richness to luscious spiced apple tart and baked
Napa Valley 2017 $33 Direct, with a good beam of pear flavors. Ground nutmeg lingers into the broad, plush
91 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Napa ripe plum and cherry purée flavors laced with light vanilla finish with powerful toasty notes. Drink now through
Valley Bear Track Vineyard 2018 $125 This offers and red licorice hints along the way. Drink now through 2023. 250,000 cases made.—K.M.
up a solidly ripe core of crushed plum and warmed cassis 2023. 53,480 cases made.—J.M.
notes laced with toasted vanilla, tobacco and a flash of 90 B Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley
loam. Light savory thread through the finish injects cut 89 Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon California 815 Dutton Ranch 2018 $55 Lots of pastry notes to the
and energy. Best from 2021 through 2031. 1,502 cases 2018 $18 Loganberry, sassafras and anise notes mix baked apple and dried pear flavors, which are backed by
made.—J.M. together in this red, with a juicy finish that keeps every- plush acidity. Ripe and lightly buttered finish with some
thing focused. Not big, but shows nice character and bal- savory accents. Drink now through 2024. 350 cases
91 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville ance. Drink now through 2022. 127,000 cases made.—J.M. made.—K.M.
District Collection 2017 $108 A solid, winey ver-
sion, with a textbook core of red and black currant paste 89 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 90 B Cellars Chardonnay Rutherford Star Vine-
framed with singed cedar and alder notes and scored with Carol’s Vineyard 2016 $60 This late-release shows yard 2018 $55 Concentrated, bold and structured
tobacco and warm earth notes on the finish, giving this some softening, as its core of plum and black cherry fruit white fruit flavors are well-knit and carry a creamy rich-
a bit of an old-school feel. Best from 2021 through 2032. melds into cedar, vanilla and warm earth tones on the ness. Intense spiciness fills the finish along with lithe flinty
141 cases made.—J.M. finish. Drink now through 2022. 1,000 cases made.—J.M. accents. Drink now through 2023. 200 cases made.—K.M.
91 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 89 Trestle Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma 90 Castello di Amorosa Chardonnay Santa
Heritage Collection 2017 $45 This is nicely ren- Valley Creekside 2017 $50 Focused, with a sanguine Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard 2018 $39
dered, with a mix of gently mulled red and black currant thread running through the core of plum and black cherry Rich and well-spiced, with concentrated ripe apple and
fruit entwined with light sassafras, vanilla and anise notes. fruit, ending with flickers of anise, herb and mineral. Drink brioche flavors backed by crisp acidity. The buttery finish
Fruit keeps the upper hand through the finish as the other now through 2022. 280 cases made.—J.M. offers some honeyed notes. Drink now through 2023.
notes meld in. Drink now through 2026. 30,000 cases 1,251 cases made.—K.M.
made.—J.M. 88 B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast
Silver Label 2018 $25 Polished and easy in feel, with 90 Merryvale Chardonnay Napa Valley
91 Yao Family Cabernet Sauvignon Napa moderate cassis and cherry purée flavors gliding through, Silhouette 2018 $70 Vibrant acidity is loaded into
Valley Yao Ming 2017 $95 Lively cassis, raspberry backed by light floral and vanilla hints on the finish. Drink the baked apple and dried pear flavors. Well-structured,
reduction and bramble notes mix together here, backed now. 20,000 cases made.—J.M. with a minerally accent on the fresh, direct finish, which
by judicious toast and a licorice root note in the finish. also offers buttery hints. Drink now through 2023. 827
Drink now through 2027. 1,392 cases made.—J.M. 88 Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon California cases made.—K.M.
2018 $17 Open-knit, with a mix of Bing cherry, plum
90 Durant & Booth Cabernet Sauvignon Napa and licorice notes melded together. Easy, rounded finish. 90 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Carneros Estate
Valley 2018 $25 This ripe red shows good drive, Drink now. 1,170,403 cases made.—J.M. 2018 $76 Bright and juicy, with fine-edged savory ac-
letting cassis, cherry and plum puree notes race along, cents to cut green apple and pear flavors that are well-
with a graphite spine for support, while light toast, savory 88 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon California structured. Buttery accents on the finish. Drink now
and apple wood details dot the finish. Drink now through Vintner’s Collection 2018 $12 Friendly and direct, through 2024. 1,066 cases made.—K.M.
2026. 4,971 cases made.—J.M. with crushed plum and red licorice notes laced with a
singed vanilla thread. Drink now through 2021. 499,850 89 Auteur Chardonnay Carneros Hyde Vineyard
90 Logan Farrell Cabernet Sauvignon Napa cases made.—J.M. 2018 $55 Crisp acidity backs the Asian pear and Mc-
Valley 2017 $35 Offers a nicely focused beam of cas- Intosh apple flavors. Hints of salted almond on the savory
sis and cherry reduction flavors pumping through, lined 87 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon North finish. Drink now through 2023. 125 cases made.—K.M.
with hints of alder, loam and singed vanilla. A flash of Coast 2018 $15 This easygoing, open-knit version has
bay leaf enlivens the finish just enough. Drink now a mix of plum, cherry and blueberry fruit wrapped with a 89 Castello di Amorosa Chardonnay Napa
through 2026. 1,900 cases made.—J.M. red licorice note on the finish. A ready-to-go Cab. Drink Valley Reserve 2018 $59 Ripe, with plenty of tropi-
now. 3,059 cases made.—J.M. cal fruit, baked apple and pear flavors filled with caramel
90 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 87 Rickshaw Cabernet Sauvignon California
accents. Pie crust notes fill the buttery finish. Drink now
Valley Element 28 2018 $150 Lively, with a mix of through 2022. 1,746 cases made.—K.M.
bramble, plum cake, raspberry and black cherry notes 2018 $16 Forward and open in style, offering friendly
forming the core and streaks of sassafras on the finish. cherry and raspberry compote flavors laced with light 89 Laetitia Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley
Approachable, but a touch of cellaring is fine too. Best vanilla and licorice hints on the finish. Drink now. 12,000 2019 $25 Hints of celery root to the crisp white fruit
from 2021 through 2030. 827 cases made.—J.M. cases made.—J.M. flavors. Notes of tarragon in the midpalate, with a ripe,
spicy finish that lingers with buttery hints. Drink now
90 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Ruth- CALIFORNIA through 2023. 2,400 cases made.—K.M.
erford Quarry Vineyard 2018 $125 Delivers a lovely
beam of cassis and cherry purée flavors laced with subtle Chardonnay 89 Morgan Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands
juniper, sassafras and earth notes. Nicely focused, cedar- Highland 2018 $28 A well-knit mix of quince, citrus
tinged finish has a streamlined feel. Drink now through 92 Fort Ross Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview and apple flavors feature notes of beeswax, with a light,
2027. 1,990 cases made.—J.M. Fort Ross Vineyard 2018 $44 Powerful, with savory creamy finish that has savory spice notes. Drink now
richness to the mix of intense fresh cut apple and pear through 2023. 6,812 cases made.—K.M.
90 Pott Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 flavors. Crunchy acidity fills the finish, which features 88 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2018
$60 Solid and direct, featuring a beam of red and black buttery hints to dried sage and tarragon accents. Drink
currant fruit infused with singed vanilla and tobacco notes. $22 Juicy, with ripe melon, apple and apricot flavors
now through 2025. 608 cases made.—K.M. that show plenty of cooking spice accents, followed by
Fruit holds sway on the toasty finish, with a flash of warm
humus as well. Drink now through 2026. 462 cases toasty and creamy notes on the finish. Drink now. 52,000
made.—J.M. cases made.—K.M.

87 Concannon Chardonnay Monterey County 90 F l a u n t P i n o t

Noir 91 Merryvale Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley
2018 $17 A juicy white, filled with ripe apple and peach Sonoma Coast 2019 $40 2019 $34 Fragrant and expressive, with pineapple,
flavors that show buttery pastry accents, with nutmeg notes This crisp version is redolent of mango and tangerine flavors that are aromatic and juicy.
on the finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made.—K.M. crushed red plum and wild cherry A hint of honeysuckle and plenty of intensity on the long,
flavors that are backed by vibrant dynamic finish. Drink now. 661 cases made.—M.W.
CALIFORNIA acidity. The spicy finish features a

snap of licorice. Drink now through
90 Whitehall Lane Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford
Pinot Noir DIANNA NOVY 2019 $25 Offers a juicy, mouthwatering mix of mango,
2023. 520 cases made.—K.M. Owner & Winemaker
tangerine, poached pear and lemon curd, with a touch of
93 B Cellars Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Calesa lemon verbena on the finish, showcasing a sleek body and
Vineyard 2018 $76 Rich and layered, with a concen- 90 Vincent Christopher Pinot Noir Sonoma refreshing acidity. Drink now. 9,800 cases made.—M.W.
trated mix of raspberry, red currant and cherry flavors that
Coast Walala Vineyard 2017 $85 Bright, with min-
feature minerally components. The unctuous finish has a
erally accents to the red fruit and berry flavors matched 89 Cuvaison Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley
to light underbrush accents. Sanguine notes on the finish. Los Carneros 2019 $24 Crisp pear, green apple and
creamy allure and lingers with plenty of spice. Drink now lemongrass flavors mingle with lime sherbet and a touch
Drink now through 2023. 450 cases made.—K.M.
through 2025. 325 cases made.—K.M. of white flower aromatics on a juicy frame. Drink now.
93 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview 89 The Calling Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 1,887 cases made.—M.W.
Fort Ross Vineyard 2017 $52 Suave, with a delicate Fox Den Vineyard Single Vineyard Series 2017
mix of vibrant cherry, currant and huckleberry flavors that
$62 Ripe and loamy, with dried berry and cherry flavors 89 Outlot Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County
that are filled with accents of dried tarragon and allspice, 2018 $20 Intense dried pineapple, yellow apple, pear
are backed by crunchy acidity. Shows minerally richness and orange blossom and lemon sherbet are mouthwater-
showing floral accents on the finish. Drink now. 1,000
on the fine-textured finish. Drink now through 2025. 627 ing on the finish. Drink now. 1,043 cases made.—M.W.
cases made.—K.M.
cases made.—K.M.
93 Iron Horse Brut Green Valley of Russian River 89 Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir California 88 Samuel Charles Sauvignon Blanc High
Blanc De NV $19 A fun quaff, with snappy raspberry Valley 2019 $25 Lemongrass, lime and pear flavors
Valley Classic Vintage 2016 $48 Plush and creamy are fresh and light on a crisp frame, with a note of toasted
and strawberry flavors that finish with refreshing acidity.
with a beam a fresh acidity that accentuates the baked almond on the finish. Drink now. 2,340 cases made.—M.W.
Drink now. 35,000 cases made.—T.F.
apple, strawberry and toasty brioche flavors that expand
on a long finish. Drink now through 2022. 1,700 cases 89 Flaunt Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Sexton
made.—T.F. Vineyard 2019 $55 A sinewy style, with some dried CALIFORNIA
92 B Cellars Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros savory herbal shadings to the berry and cherry flavors, Sparkling
showing forest floor notes on the finish. Drink now
Brown Ranch 2018 $76 Pure and direct, with bright
acidity behind the crackling red fruit and berry flavors.
through 2023. 750 cases made.—K.M. 95 Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
L’Ermitage 2012 $75 See Highly Recommended,
Offers mineral and slate notes midpalate, with a well-
honed and spicy finish. Drink now through 2023. 200
89 Lula Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2018 $45 page 99.
Fresh and crunchy, with red fruit and spice flavors that
cases made.—K.M. feature plenty of dried juniper berry and spice accents, 94 Domaine Carneros Blanc de Blancs Carneros
ending with a loamy finish. Drink now through 2023. 715
92 B Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
cases made.—K.M.
Le Rêve 2013 $120 Luxurious yet structured, with
Manzana Vineyard 2018 $76 Big, rich and broad- roasted hazelnut, fresh ginger and cinnamon roll aromas
opening to plush and vibrant baked apple, lemon tart and
textured, with hints of rooibos tea to the savory mix of
dried cherry and berry flavors. The long, spicy finish of-
88 DNA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2018 mineral flavors that play out on the long finish. Drink
$20 There’s focused minerality to the mix of cherry
now through 2021. 850 cases made.—T.F.
fers chocolate tart and pastry notes. Drink now through tart, red currant and crushed plum flavors. Good length
2024. 400 cases made.—K.M. on the fresh, spicy finish. Drink now through 2022. 650 94 Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley 2012 $70
cases made.—K.M.
92 Valdez Family Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast See Highly Recommended, page 99.
Silver Eagle Vineyard 2017 $60 Plush and creamy, 88
with notes of sandalwood to the cherry tart and plum pud-
Husch Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2018 93 Domaine Carneros Brut Carneros 2016 $33
$25 Zesty cherry and wild berry flavors are backed by Vibrant and refined, with elegantly rich Asian pear, bri-
ding flavors. Chocolate and Asian spice notes linger on bright acidity, with savory notes on the finish that show
the broad, open-textured finish. Drink now through 2023. oche and strawberry blossom accents that take on polish
flinty accents. Drink now through 2022. 3,040 cases and richness on the lingering finish. Drink now through
150 cases made.—K.M. made.—K.M. 2022. 30,660 cases made.—T.F.
91 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir Carneros 2018 88 Reata Pinot Noir San Benito-Monterey- 93 Domaine Carneros Brut Carneros Estate
$44 Rich and plush, with cherry tart, plum pudding Sonoma Counties Three County 2018 $20 Dried
and dark currant flavors that are well-structured, showing 2015 $36 Stylish and richly structured yet impeccably
berry and cherry flavors feature svelte minerality in this refined, with lovely Asian pear, cherry, toasted brioche
cocoa powder and allspice accents on the open-textured version, with cedary accents. Ends with notes of forest
finish. Drink now through 2025. 5,770 cases made.—K.M. and ginger flavors that form a tight beam of refreshing
floor on the finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made.—K.M. acidity on the finish. Drink now. 5,100 cases made.—T.F.
91 Journeyman Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 87 Lucky Rock Pinot Noir Monterey-San 93 Domaine Carneros Brut Carneros Ultra
2018 $54 Fine-textured, with lithe flavors of cherry Benito-Sonoma Counties County Cuvée 2018 $22
tart, raspberry and currant that are well-knit. Fresh, min- 2015 $46 Refined and steely, yet buoyed by a core of
A juicy red, with fresh crushed cherry and raspberry fla- rich and polished fruit, offering pippin apple, blanched
erally edge on the finish, with plenty of forest floor notes. vors that offer crisp acidity, showing underbrush accents
Drink now through 2024. 218 cases made.—K.M. almond and fresh ginger flavors that build toward the
on the finish. Drink now. 2,182 cases made.—K.M. minerally finish. Drink now. 2,450 cases made.—T.F.
91 Lula Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Lula Vine-
93 Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Carneros
yard 2018 $50 Minerally tint to expressive dark cherry
and raspberry flavors filled with forest floor and loamy
CALIFORNIA 2016 $44 Refined yet festive, offering gorgeous aromas
notes. Black licorice on the lithe finish. Drink now Sauvignon Blanc of rose petal, strawberry and watermelon that lead to crisp,
through 2024. 300 cases made.—K.M. steely flavors, with a hint of graham cracker on the long,
91 Dry Creek Fumé Blanc Sonoma County 2019 lingering finish. Drink now. 7,160 cases made.—T.F.
91 Chateau St. Jean Pinot Noir Sonoma County $16 See Best Values, page 101.
93 Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée Green Valley of
Reserve 2017 $70 Big and well-structured, with con-
centrated dark cherry, plum paste and dark currant flavors 91 Hard Six Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Russian River Valley 2016 $48 A rare combination
that are supported by firm tannins and acidity. Chocolate Seated Cloud 2018 $40 Complex and mouthwater- of refinement and festive exuberance, offering lovely,
mousse and Asian spice on the finish. Drink now through ing, a thread of saline mingles with honeysuckle, apricot expressive flavors of raspberry and strawberry that are
2024. 306 cases made.—K.M. and green apple flavors and lime juice. Finds terrific bal- laced with rose petal and graham cracker notes that fan
ance between bold flavors and an elegant, detailed profile. out on the long, luxurious finish. Drink now. 1,850 cases
90 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir Carneros The Drink now. 141 cases made.—M.W. made.—T.F.
Famous Gate 2018 $90 Intense cherry flavors domi-
nate this suave version. Creamy midpalate, with hints of 91 La Crema Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County
licorice on the spicy finish. Drink now through 2024. 2019 $25 See Smart Buys, page 100.
2,330 cases made.—K.M.

93 Mumm Napa Brut Napa County Prestige 89 Domaine Chandon Brut California NV $19

Extended Tirage NV $34 A lovely sparkler, rich and See Smart Buys, page 101.
polished yet vibrant, with baked Asian pear, brioche and
toasted hazelnut flavors that build crispness on the linger- 89 Domaine Chandon Rosé Carneros étoile
ing finish. Drink now. 200 cases made.—T.F. NV $55 Quite soft and plush, with strawberry and peach
flavors plus hints of spice and rose petal. Drink now. 4,000
93 Schramsberg Brut Blanc de Blancs North cases made.—T.F.
Coast 2017 $41 Lithe and delicately balanced, with
vibrant lemon custard, blanched almond and steely citrus 89 Flaunt Brut Russian River Valley 2017 $48
tones that take on richness and speed on the long finish. Supple and full-bodied, with soft baked apple and straw-
Drink now. 33,263 cases made.—T.F. berry flavors propelled by underlying crisp and vibrant
acidity. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.—T.F.
92 Domaine Chandon Brut Carneros étoile NV
$50 Fresh and lively aromas of red apple and strawberry 89 Korbel Brut California Organic Grapes 2017
lead to crisp and polished flavors of toasty brioche, ginger $16 Bold, with apple, spiced nut and lime flavors that
and roasted almond that linger on a succulent finish. make this a festive quaff. For those who love big, toasty
Drink now. 4,500 cases made.—T.F. California whites, this is your bubbly. Drink now. 20,776
cases made.—T.F.
Find it at one of these
92 Iron Horse Brut Green Valley of Russian outstanding wine shops where
River Valley LD 2012 $110 Elegantly extravagant, 89 Mumm Napa Brut Napa County Prestige NV Wine Spectator is sold:
with unctuous marzipan, baked pear and cinnamon bri- $24 Soft and delicately zesty with fresh strawberry and
oche flavors that finish on a rich, polished accent. Drink apple flavors that finish on a crisp, spicy accent. Drink
now. 400 cases made.—T.F. now. 220,000 cases made.—T.F. MISSION WINES
South Pasadena, CA 91030 • 626-403-9463
92 Schramsberg J. Schram North Coast 2011 89 Mumm Napa Brut Rosé Napa County Reserve
$130 Quite toasty and full-bodied, with yeast roll, lemon NV $44 Plump with fruit, full-bodied, but soft on acid- MISTER WRIGHT INC
verbena, fresh ginger and baked Asian pear flavors. Not ity, with strawberry, raspberry and toasty oak. Drink now. New York, NY 10128 • 212-722-4564
as flamboyant as previous vintages. Drink now. 2,650 cases 500 cases made.—T.F.
MOON WINE & SPIRITS
made.—T.F.
88 Domaine Chandon Brut Rosé California NV Brentwood, TN 37027 • 615-472-1772
91 Goldeneye Brut Rosé Anderson Valley 2017 $19 Vibrant raspberry and strawberry blossom aromas
MORRELL & COMPANY
$65 Polished and rich, with full-bodied strawberry and open to easygoing toasty graham cracker accents in this
rosé. Drink now. 100,000 cases made.—T.F. New York, NY 10020 • 212-688-9370
cherry flavors wrapped in toasty spice and graham cracker.
Drink now. 990 cases made.—T.F. MT. KISCO WINE & SPIRITS
88 Korbel Brut California NV $14 Snappy
Mt Kisco, NY 10549 • 914-666-5255
91 Iron Horse Blanc de Blancs Green Valley and easy to sip, with lively citrus, honey blossom and spice
of Russian River Valley Ocean Reserve 2016 $55 flavors. Drink now. 976,633 cases made.—T.F. MV WINE & SPIRITS
Vibrant and steely, with green apple, lemon verbena and
blanched almond flavors that build tension toward a brac- 88 Korbel Brut Rosé California NV $14 A fes- Edgartown, MA 02539 • 508-627-7557
ingly crisp finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.—T.F. tive pink, with easygoing strawberry, watermelon and lemon NANTUCKET WINE & SPIRITS
verbena accents. Drink now. 76,778 cases made.—T.F. Nantucket, MA 02554 • 508-228-1136
91 Mumm Napa Devaux 88 Mumm Napa Brut Rosé Napa County NV $24 NORM’S BEER & WINE
Ranch Napa County 2015 $48 Crisp and easygoing, with delicate strawberry and water- Vienna, VA 22180 • 703-242-0100
Elegant and expressive, with peach melon accents. Drink now. 108,000 cases made.—T.F.
blossom, nectarine and Meyer NORTHEAST WINE
lemon flavors that take on steely yet 87 Korbel Blanc de Noirs California NV $14 Teaneck, NJ 07666 • 201-836-8800
rich accents on the finish. Drink LUDOVIC DERVIN Lively and crisp, with a burst of succulent raspberry and
now. 500 cases made.—T.F. Winemaker cherry. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.—T.F. OFF THE VINE
Grapevine, TX 76051 • 817-421-1091
91 Mumm Napa Rosé Napa Valley DVX 2014
87 Korbel Natural’ Russian River Valley 2017
$16 Straightforward and appealing for its bright apple, O’HARA WINE & LIQUORS
$80 Plush and plump, with supple cherry and straw- raspberry and spice flavors that finish on a snappy note. Worcester, MA 01606 • 508-853-1919
berry flavors accented by toasty spice. Lacks the lovely Drink now. 17,750 cases made.—T.F.
bracing acidity of previous vintages. Drink now. 600 cases ONE STOP DISCOUNT WINE & LIQUORS
made.—T.F. 87 Maker Sauvignon Blanc Lake County Johnson City, TN 37604 • 423-926-8366
Sparkling 2019 $NA/250ml Quite tart and brisk,
90 Decoy Brut California Cuvée NV $25 with steely lemon and lime flavors. Sold as a six-pack of ORION WINE AND SPIRITS
Snappy and fresh, with layered, steely lemon and orange 250ml cans for $42. Drink now. 340 cases made.—T.F. Frederick, MD 21704 • 301-788-9940
zest flavors accented by floral vanilla notes. Drink now.
24,500 cases made.—T.F. OTTO’S WINE & SPIRITS
90 J Blanc de Noirs Russian River Valley

CALIFORNIA Brown Deer, WI 53223 • 414-354-5831
2016 $65 Crisp and lively, with delicate cherry blos- Zinfandel OUR MARKET
som and red apple accents that finish on a brisk note. Oak Bluffs, MA 02557 • 508-693-3000
Drink now. 785 cases made.—T.F. 94 Williams Selyem Zinfandel Russian River
PASTA PLUS RESTAURANT & MARKET
Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard 2018 $65 Combines
90 Louis Pommery Brut California NV $21 old-school briar with a modern, polished style, offering Laurel, MD 20707 • 301-498-5100
Steely and vibrant, this combines the best of Old and New multilayered flavors of black cherry, orange zest, smoked PENINSULA MARKET
World styles, with fresh lime, kiwifruit and blanched pepper and sweet anise. Drink now through 2029. 433
Westwood, CA 96137 • 530-596-3500
almond flavors. Drink now. 8,000 cases made.—T.F. cases made.—T.F.
PETROCKS LIQUOR
90 Louis Pommery Brut Rosé California NV $27 93 Williams Selyem Zinfandel Russian River Hillsborough, NJ 08844 • 908-359-2333
Distinctively floral, with rose petal and strawberry blos- Valley Saitone Estate Vineyard 2018 $65 Tart
som aromas leading to delicate, crisp flavors that finish blueberry and bright, briary cherry flavors take on hints
with a festive accent. Drink now. 4,500 cases made.—T.F. of licorice, spice and green peppercorn extending to the
long finish, with refined tannins. Drink now through 2028. For a complete list of outstanding
90 Mumm Napa Blanc de Noirs Napa County 495 cases made.—T.F.
2015 $50 Steely yet festive, with lively raspberry and wineshops in your neighborhood visit:
strawberry flavors laced with notes of graham cracker and
a hint of mineral. Drink now. 800 cases made.—T.F.
winespectator.com/wineshops

New Releases: California / Oregon / Washington
92 Williams Selyem Zinfandel Russian River 86 Angels & Cowboys Sonoma County 2018 90 Adelsheim Blanc de Blancs Willamette
Valley Papera Vineyard 2018 $65 Brooding and $22 Zesty and easygoing, with hints of cherry and spiced Valley 2014 $75 Stylish and sleekly elegant, with
appealingly rustic, this Zin builds complex notes of wild herb. Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane and bright lemon and lime flavors laced with fresh ginger and
berry, fresh sage and cracked pepper on the way toward Grenache. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.—T.F. toasty brioche. Drink now. 60 cases made.—T.F.
medium-bodied tannins. Drink now through 2029. 722
cases made.—T.F. 90 La Crema Blanc de Blancs Willamette Valley
OREGON 2015 $65 Vibrant and fresh, with tart apple and lemon
91 Dashe Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Reserve flavors accented with lively yeast roll and spice flavors
2017 $36 Precise, with a sinewy elegance that draws 94 Gran Moraine Brut Rosé Yamhill-Carlton NV that linger on a bright finish. Drink now. 200 cases
in bright cherry and cranberry flavors laced with notes of $50 That rare domestic rosé that captures the vibrant made.—T.F.
briar, dill and white pepper. Drink now through 2027. acidity of Champagne, offering delicate strawberry, rasp-
1,526 cases made.—T.F. berry flavors laced with steely minerality and sprinkle of 89 Argyle Brut Rosé Willamette Valley Artisan
graham cracker on the finish. Drink now through 2022. Series 2016 $50 A pretty blush bubbly with bright
91 St. Francis Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 1,000 cases made.—T.F. cherry, cranberry and spice flavors that finish on a vibrant
Reserve 2017 $45 Wild and ripe black raspberry aro- accent. Drink now. 2,252 cases made.—T.F.
mas, with briary sweet anise and white pepper flavors and 93 Argyle Brut Dundee Hills Knudsen Vineyard
toasty vanilla, finishing with zesty tannins. Drink now 2016 $50 Luxurious aromas of caramel brioche and 86 A to Z Wineworks Rosé Bubbles Oregon NV
through 2027. 600 cases made.—T.F. baked apple draw in vibrant accents of lemon verbena $16 Soft and easygoing, with succulent strawberry and
and fresh ginger, balancing out this crisp yet full-bodied raspberry flavors. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.—T.F.
90 Dashe Zinfandel Alexander Valley Todd bubbly. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now. 932 cases
Brothers Ranch Old Vines Single Vineyard Series
2017 $42 Soft and plush, with plump raspberry, bitter
made.—T.F.
WASHINGTON
chocolate and licorice flavors that finish with zesty tan- 93 Argyle Brut Willamette Valley Extended Red
nins. Drink now through 2026. 288 cases made.—T.F. Tirage Master Series 2009 $80 Rich, with lush
90 Goldschmidt Zinfandel Alexander Valley
yeast and almond accents highlighting baked pear, spice 92 Northstar Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla
and ginger flavors that finish with lingering spiced hazel- Valley 2017 $55 Refined and well-structured, with
Fidelity The Railyard 2019 $22 Briary and bursting nut tones. Drink now. 1,527 cases made.—T.F. polished black cherry, espresso and toasty spice flavors
with easygoing but zesty black cherry, grilled anise and that build richness toward fine-grained tannins. Drink
white pepper flavors that finish on a snappy note. Drink
now through 2027. 400 cases made.—T.F.
93 Soter Brut Rosé Yamhill- now through 2027. 400 cases made.—T.F.
Carlton Mineral Springs 2016
89 Bartholomew Estate Zinfandel Sonoma $65 This is elegance in a glass, 91 Northstar Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia
offering refined strawberry, blood Valley 2017 $40 Svelte and tightly focused, offering
Valley 2018 $35 A racy Zin, with medium-bodied expressive blackberry, toasty spice and espresso that fin-
cherry, anise and pepper flavors that linger on a zesty ac- orange and rose petal accents that
build richness on the long finish. ish with refined tannins. Drink now through 2027. 500
cent. Drink now through 2025. 355 cases made.—T.F. cases made.—T.F.
Drink now through 2022. 890 cases TONY SOTER
89 Dashe The Comet Sonoma County 2017 $42 made.—T.F. Owner
91 Spring Valley Cabernet Franc Walla Walla
Bright with briary fruit and laced with pepper, plus cherry Valley Katherine Corkrum 2017 $50 Razor-sharp
and tomato leaf flavors. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Cari-
gnane. Drink now through 2024. 381 cases made.—T.F.
92 Argyle Blanc de Blancs Dundee Hills Knud- in focus, with a firm yet agile core of acidity and tannin
sen Vineyard Artisan Series 2015 $50 Sleek and that finds balance as the refined flavors of cherry and to-
lithe, with delicately layered lemon and fresh ginger. A bacco build toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now
89 San Lorenzo Rock Garden Hillside Red
vibrant acid-mineral balance makes it pop, with a crisp, through 2027. 458 cases made.—T.F.
Alexander Valley 2018 $48 Soft and a hint sweet,
fresh, lingering finish. Drink now. 992 cases made.—T.F.
with easygoing raspberry, orange zest and toasty cinnamon 89 Nine Hats Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia
flavors that linger on the finish. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2027. 410
91 Argyle Brut Willamette Valley Vintage Valley 2017 $20 A friendly red with just enough com-
Grower Series 2016 $28 Vibrant and fresh, with plexity to keep it lively. Marked by zesty black cherry and
cases made.—T.F. bright lemon zest and roasted pear flavors with accents of toasty spice flavors. Drink now through 2024. 6,056 cases
yeast roll and spice. Drink now. 60 cases made.—T.F. made.—T.F.
88 Borne of Fire Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia

Valley The Burn 2018 $20 A gutsy little red that
makes up for what it lacks in polishe with bold blackberry,
cedar and spice flavors. Drink now through 2023. 35,000
cases made.—T.F.
88 Gordon Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley 2016 $24 Taut and tightly wound,
with black cherry, spice and tobacco flavors that finish with
grippy tannins. Best after 2021. 2,900 cases made.—T.F.
88 Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc

Columbia Valley 2017 $28 Sleek and lively, with
blueberry and pencil lead aromas that lead to a tight beam
cherry and tobacco flavors. Drink now through 2024. 468
cases made.—T.F.
87 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley 2017 $15 Soft and easygoing, this
red is a nice quaffer, offering appealing flavors of cherry
and spiced herbs. Drink now through 2022. 570,000 cases
made.—T.F.
Corrections
In the Buying Guide of the Nov. 30 issue, the photograph
of Cody Wright correctly belongs with the entry for Purple
Hands Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Wichmann Vineyard 2018,
and the correct price for Quinta do Crasto Douro White
Superior 2018 is $29.

Special Report: 2020 Top 100
Special Report 8 96 Bodega Piedra Negra Chacayes Los 17 94 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña

Chacayes 2015 $99 Very elegant and rich, with con- Godeval Cepas Vellas 2018 $23 Firm and shapely,
2020 Top 100 centrated kirsch, dark plum and cherry tart flavors, backed
by medium-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Shows grip
this white shows power and elegance. The polished tex-
ture carries lively flavors of grapefruit, quince, tarragon
midpalate, leading to a finish that turns creamy and and flint. Electric acidity gives this energy. Harmonious
The reviews that follow are the on-release tasting plush, primed with spicy richness and chocolate mousse and long. Drink now through 2026. 1,000 cases made, 600
notes for the wines of the 2020 Top 100. Ranking accents. 100% Malbec. Drink now through 2027. 3,000 cases imported.—T.M. (9/30/2020)
is indicated by the number in the red box to the cases made.—K.M. (6/30/2020)
left of each note. Prices given are release prices. 18 94 Hall Sauvignon Blanc Knights Valley
The date in parentheses indicates the issue in 9 95 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Ribbon 2018 $35 Stylish and memorable, this white strikes an
which the wine was first reviewed. An overview Ridge The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2018 $95 A ideal balance between richness and vibrancy, with a spicy,
of this year’s Top 100 and profiles of each of the wine of presence and expression, impeccably structured smoky note of palo santo and a juicy, crisp core of lemon
selected wines begins on page 35. yet elegantly layered, with evocative raspberry, rose petal curd, orange sherbet and dried apricot flavors. A touch of
and brown baking spice notes that pick up richness and green tea lingers on the finish. Drink now through 2030.
tension toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 1,225 cases made.—M.W. (5/31/2020)
1 96 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja 2029. 3,088 cases made.—T.F. (6/30/2020)
19 93 Résonance Pinot Noir Willamette
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 $139 10 97 Bollinger Brut Champagne La Grande
Maturing well, this round red is a lovely example of the
Valley 2017 $35 A wine with structure and presence,
traditional style. Orange peel, dried cherry, forest floor,
Année 2012 $175 This goes from zero to 60 right out buoyed by a complex backbone of minerality, wrapped in
of the gate, with an intense spine of acidity driving tightly refined dark cherry and black tea flavors and finishing
vanilla and black tea flavors mingle harmoniously over
meshed flavors of crushed black currant, ground coffee, with fine-grained tannins. Best from 2021 through 2029.
round tannins and citrusy acidity. Generous but gentle,
candied grapefruit peel and toasted almond. The profile 6,550 cases made.—T.F. (2/29/2020)
lively, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and
expands on the palate, carried by the fine, raw silk–like
Mazuelo. Drink now through 2030. 7,500 cases made, 680
mousse. Richly aromatic and expressive from start to last- 20 94 Caiarossa Toscana Pergolaia 2016
cases imported.—T.M. (9/30/2020) $28 Flavors of black cherry and blackberry stand up to
ing, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through
2 95 Aubert Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV 2037. 850 cases imported.—A.N. (12/15/2020) the dense tannins in this fresh, deep and intense red, but
this is equally about the vibrant acidity driving the fruit,
Vineyard 2018 $85 Powerful and structured, with 11 97 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico wild herb nuances and spice-infused aftertaste. Sangiovese
minerally richness to the fine-edged red fruit and
savory spice flavors. The sleek finish offers impressive
Riserva 2016 $40 Enticing aromas of black cherry, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
black currant and violet are allied to flavors of iron, wet Best from 2022 through 2040. 4,700 cases made, 1,200
purity and clarity to the notes of hot stone, flint and
earth and spice in this red, which is loaded with fruit, cases imported.—B.S. (10/15/2020)
underbrush. Best from 2021 through 2026. 993 cases
vibrant acidity and well-mannered tannins. Shows terrific
made.—K.M. (10/15/2020)
harmony now, yet possesses the structure to age. The long, 21 92 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc California
3 97 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino mouthwatering finish extends the dark fruit and mineral 2019 $12 Lemon blossom, Asian pear, lime sherbet
elements. Best from 2021 through 2040. 6,000 cases made, and candied orange peel notes are pure, fragrant and juicy
Le Lucére 2015 $90 Effusive aromas of black currant,
3,300 cases imported.—B.S. (2/29/2020) in this silky white, with intensity and a lift of freshness
blueberry, violet and iron mark this expressive red. Supple
on the finish from an accent of lemon verbena. Drink
and harmonious, with a firm backbone of tannins that are 12 96 Bodegas y Viñedos Valderiz Ribera now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 98,000 cases
refined and integrated. Shows terrific length and com-
plexity. Best from 2023 through 2043. 1,300 cases made,
del Duero 2016 $40 The dense, polished texture made.—M.W. (11/15/2020)
carries rich, harmonious flavors in this elegant red.
650 cases imported.—B.S. (6/30/2020)
Blackberry and currant notes mingle with espresso, 22 94 Pierre Amadieu Gigondas Domaine
4 96 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon mineral, licorice and spice accents. Lovely floral hints Grand Romane 2017 $40 Ripe and juicy in feel, with
emerge on the long, clean finish. Beautifully sculpted. a wound-up core of raspberry, black currant and cherry
Mount Veeder 2016 $135 This distinctive red throws
Drink now through 2030. 2,000 cases made, 657 cases pâte de fruit flavors waiting to stretch out, while an
a lot of wild sage, herb and sassafras notes out first, while
imported.—T.M. (2/29/2020) undercurrent of alder, tobacco and licorice root notes
the core of intense red currant, damson plum and bitter
moves through. Will be a winner when fully knit. Best
cherry fruit waits its turn. The vibrant structure is built 13 95 Tolaini Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana from 2023 through 2035. 6,500 cases made, 1,000 cases
on acidity, pulling everything together through the iron-
streaked finish. Should age wonderfully. Best from 2022
Legit 2016 $45 An impressive red of breadth and imported.—J.M. (2/29/2020)
depth, featuring black cherry, plum, leather, earth, iron
through 2040. 1,600 cases made.—J.M. (11/15/2020)
and cedar aromas and flavors. This is solidly built 23 92 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
5 96 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and well-balanced, with finely honed tannins and lively borough 2020 $17 Supple and succulent, offering a
acidity providing backbone. Best from 2021 through generous and juicy mix of passion fruit, Key lime and ruby
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources 2016
2040. 15,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. grapefruit flavors. Expressive and strong on the finish,
$90 A lush, ripe style, with açaí berry, blueberry and
—B.S. (10/31/2020) with touches of freshly grated ginger and green tea.
plum reduction notes giving this a slightly exotic bent,
Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 16,000 cases
while singed bay leaf, worn leather and warm tar accents 14 95 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago imported.—M.W. (11/30/2020)
keep this grounded in a slightly old-school way. Displays
Bannockburn 2018 $52 Aromatic and expressive,
ample heft, yet energy ripples through the finish, accom-
with raspberry, cherry and fresh herb notes that are pre- 24 97 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
panied by lingering garrigue and tobacco echoes. Best Rabajà Riserva 2015 $71 Though rich, this red
cise on a smooth and supple frame, offering details of mat-
from 2022 through 2040. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases offers bright acidity and dense tannins that lend a sense
cha green tea, white pepper and forest floor. A hint of
imported.—J.M. (5/31/2020) of tightness, with pure cherry, strawberry and floral flavors
fresh nutmeg lingers on the long, expressive finish, where
6 96 Kistler Chardonnay Russian River the tannins provide a slight grip. Drink now through 2034. that are persistent from start to lingering finish, where
5,372 cases made, 199 cases imported.—M.W. (4/30/2020) distinct spice and mineral elements play out. Best
Valley Vine Hill Vineyard 2017 $90 Complex, with
from 2023 through 2045. 1,342 cases made, 275 cases
crunchy acidity to the concentrated citrus and McIntosh 15 96 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley Three imported.—B.S. (11/30/2020)
apple flavors. Intense minerality shows midpalate, fol-
Palms Vineyard 2017 $110 Powerful, rich and com-
lowed by a pure and powerful finish that lingers with
plex, with a refined mix of currant, dark cherry and plum 25 92 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva
dried savory herb and toasty hints. Best from 2022 through 2013 $18 This plump red offers mulled cherry and plum
tart flavors backed by suave, medium-grained tannins.
2027. 1,979 cases made.—K.M. (8/31/2020) flavors, with notes of cinnamon, sandalwood and cedar.
Well-defined slate and loamy notes stretch out nicely on
Light tannins are well-integrated, while orange peel
7 95 Massolino Barolo 2016 $53 A stream the finish, with black olive hints. Drink now through
acidity keeps this fresh and focused. Harmonious and
of pure, juicy cherry fruit is at the heart of this red, along 2027. 4,678 cases made.—K.M. (11/30/2020)
generous. Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Garnacha. Drink
with mineral, tobacco and wild herb notes. Firm and 16 95 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2015 now through 2028. 26,500 cases made, 15,900 cases
tightly wound, with a matrix of dense, refined tannins for
support. All the elements are in the right proportions, this
$60 Offering cherry, plum, iron, earth and floral aromas imported.—T.M. (3/31/2020)
and flavors, this is vibrant and beautifully balanced.
just needs time. Best from 2023 through 2045. 5,800 cases
Well-structured, with the harmony and concentration to
made, 2,100 cases imported.—B.S. (11/30/2020)
develop. Best from 2023 through 2043. 4,000 cases made,
3,000 cases imported.—B.S. (6/30/2020)

26 93 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek 36 92 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Chianti 46 92 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon
Valley Fig Tree Vineyard 2018 $24 Verbena, bees- Classico Tenuta Perano 2015 $24 The core black Margaret River Filius 2017 $28 Firm, showing off
wax and matcha green tea notes give way to a succulent, cherry and blackberry flavors are shaded by iron, petrol the region’s signature fresh herbal notes, which give this
polished core of lemon curd, lanolin and quince flavors. and tar elements, with wild Tuscan scrub accents. This is aromatic lift and linger on the finish. Bay leaf, rosemary
Powerfully intense and focused, but the mouthwatering powerful and tannic, and needs some time to integrate. and cedar details are effortlessly infused into the cassis
acidity keeps the flavors vivid, fresh and light-footed. Best from 2021 through 2033. 2,000 cases imported. and plum flavors. A hint of black tea adds to the com-
Drink now. 1,310 cases made.—M.W. (4/30/2020) —B.S. (9/30/2020) plexity, as does the seamlessness of the velvety tannins.
Drink now through 2035. 18,000 cases made, 900 cases
27 95 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon 37 94 Bergström Pinot Noir Willamette imported.—M.W. (8/31/2020)
Puente Alto Gravas del Maipo 2017 $70 Precise Valley Cumberland Reserve 2018 $42 Dynamic
and powerful, with fleshy richness to the dark currant, yet harmonious, with expressive raspberry and rose petal 47 91 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2017
cassis and black olive flavors, matched to dried savory aromas, accented by flavors of orange peel and dusky spice. $18 High-toned black currant, black cherry and violet
accents. Mocha and dark chocolate details show on the Builds richness toward polished tannins. Drink now aromas and flavors are accented by vanilla and toast
long, richly spiced finish. Drink now through 2027. 1,500 through 2028. 4,210 cases made.—T.F. (11/15/2020) notes in this suave red. Supple and intense, with a linger-
cases made, 500 cases imported.—K.M. (5/31/2020) ing aftertaste of dark fruit, licorice and spice. Drink
38 94 Bodegas Juan Gil Jumilla Blue Label now through 2024. 6,000 cases made, 3,000 cases
28 93 Bodegas Borsao Syrah Campo de 2017 $35 This brawny red shows a savory character, imported.—B.S. (2/29/2020)
Borja Zarihs 2016 $22 This red marries the ripe fruit with loamy earth, black tea and tobacco notes framing a
and toasty oak of the international style with a savory, rich core of currant and blackberry flavors. The muscular 48 95 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Anderson
rustic character. A thick, polished texture, supported by tannins are balanced by juicy acidity. Dense, balanced and Valley Jolie 2017 $65 Fine-grained red fruit and berry
well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity, carries dark expressive. Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. flavors are refined and etched with rich spice and sandal-
plum, black pepper, soy sauce and loamy earth flavors that Drink now through 2032. 2,500 cases made, 1,250 cases wood accents. The juicy finish lingers with vibrant min-
are seamless and long. Drink now through 2032. 8,000 imported.—T.M. (8/31/2020) erality and hot stone notes. Complex and elegant,
cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M. (10/15/2020) exhibiting a vibrant balance. Drink now through 2025.
39 94 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Monte- 460 cases made.—K.M. (2/29/2020)
29 94 The Four Graces Pinot Noir Dundee pulciano 2016 $41 Expressive and harmonious, this
Hills Reserve 2017 $40 A delicate and polished red exhibits cherry, blackberry, violet and mineral aromas 49 93 Istine Chianti Classico 2016 $25
beauty, with expressive violet and raspberry aromas that and flavors. Pure and elegant, with an underlying tension Broad and rich, this Chianti Classico boasts black cherry,
open to gracefully layered cherry and spiced cinnamon and intensity that drives the lingering aftertaste of blackberry, violet and woodsy underbrush notes. Turns
accents that build richness toward refined tannins. Drink fruit, stone and earth, showing a hint of wild herbs. San- taut and sinewy, flexing tannic might on the finish. Food
now through 2029. 3,064 cases made.—T.F. (2/29/2020) giovese, Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino. Best from or a little bottle age will help. Best from 2022 through
2022 through 2038. 4,200 cases made, 800 cases 2036. 850 cases made, 450 cases imported.—B.S. (2/29/2020)
30 91 Compañia de Vinos del Atlántico imported.—B.S. (10/15/2020)
Garnacha Montsant Pinyolet 2016 $15 This red 50 90 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc
has density and polish, with cherry and red plum flavors 40 94 Tensley Syrah Santa Barbara County Casablanca Valley 2019 $14 A snappy and juicy
accented by forest floor, tobacco and licorice notes. Solid Colson Canyon Vineyard 2018 $44 Shows ample version, with melon, grapefruit and lemon drop flavors
and balanced. Drink now through 2026. 3,500 cases made, torque at the core, wrapped in multilayered flavors of that are well-structured. Zesty acidity lingers into the well-
3,146 cases imported.—T.M. (3/31/2020) blueberry and cherry, accented by licorice, garrigue spiced finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 6,000 cases
and crushed rock notes, finishing with brooding yet pol- imported.—K.M. (10/31/2020)
31 91 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry ished tannins. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases
Classique 2018 $19 Distinct, with mustard flower, made.—T.F. (11/30/2020) 51 95 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Sonoma
yellow apple, quince and jasmine notes mixed together, Coast Goldrock Estate 2018 $75 Rich and con-
carried on a slightly rounded, waxy frame and ending with 41 93 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin toured, with ferrous notes to the well-structured red cur-
a flash of quinine. Drink now through 2023. 4,000 cases 28 Kalimna 2018 $40 Shows terrific concentration, rant, dark cherry and dried blackberry flavors. Supple
made.—J.M. (2/29/2020) with dense and chewy tannins providing an appealing minerality shows on the spicy finish, where light creamy
backdrop to the blueberry, dried cherry, date and candied accents linger. Best from 2021 through 2026. 801 cases
32 93 Foradori Manzoni Bianco Vigneti ginger flavors. Tobacco, tomato leaf and espresso notes made.—K.M. (10/15/2020)
delle Dolomiti Fontanasanta 2018 $30 Fragrant linger on the finish. Drink now through 2030. 9,560 cases
aromas and flavors of macerated peach, chamomile and imported.—M.W. (11/30/2020) 52 93 Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos
white raspberry are finely meshed in this elegant, medium- 2018 $40 Searing acidity flows behind the notes
bodied white, with mouthwatering acidity. Bright and 42 93 Gloria Ferrer Brut Carneros Royal of glazed pear, fig and quince, with hints of blanched al-
distinctive, offering a lasting, spice- and saline-laced fin- Cuvée Late Disgorged 2013 $40 A sumptuous and mond echoing. Silky in texture, with a savory mineral
ish. Lightly chalky in texture. Drink now through 2028. rich style, with vibrant Asian pear, fresh yeast roll and crunch, this gets a bit tight midpalate, but the acidity
650 cases imported.—A.N. (10/31/2020) spiced nut flavors, taking on a steely structure on the long takes over and keeps this going on the long, spice-infused
finish. Drink now. 4,800 cases made.—T.F. (3/31/2020) finish. Could work now with the right food, but better to
33 91 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Willamette wait a bit. Best from 2022 through 2032. 500 cases
Valley 2017 $22 Sleek and elegantly rich, with a 43 90 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Tupun- imported.—A.Z. (11/15/2020)
vibrant backbone of polished tannins and bright acidity gato 2019 $13 Offers a smoky aroma, with refined
wrapped in expressive raspberry and orange zest flavors, raspberry and red currant flavors, backed by crunchy 53 94 Dry Creek Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
with sandalwood and other zesty spice notes. Drink now acidity. Savory midpalate, with a fine-grained finish Spencer’s Hill Vineyard Single Vineyard Series
through 2026. 18,000 cases made.—T.F. (11/30/2020) that offers black licorice and tar notes. Drink now 2016 $44 A knockout example of Dry Creek Zin, this
through 2024. 88,540 cases made, 27,793 cases is briary yet polished and refined, with lively raspberry,
34 92 Glenelly Chardonnay Stellenbosch imported.—K.M. (6/30/2020) grilled anise and cracked pepper flavors that build power
Estate Reserve 2018 $25 Expressive and profound, and tension toward broad-shouldered tannins. Drink now
beautifully balancing oak and fruit and floral flavors. Notes 44 92 Hartford Court Chardonnay Russian through 2030. 800 cases made.—T.F. (6/30/2020)
of apple, mint, heather and butter mingle in harmony, River Valley 2018 $30 Luscious, rich and full of
supported by vivid acidity. Picks up a bit of crunch toward creamy white fruit flavors flanked by buttery accents. 54 92 Travaglini Gattinara 2015 $32
the long, mouthwatering finish, adding to the interesting Spicy plushness lingers into the finish, with some hon- Bursting with sweet, ripe cherry and plum fruit, this Gat-
texture. Best from 2022 through 2032. 2,500 cases made, eyed notes. Drink now through 2024. 17,000 cases tinara also evokes salty licorice, loam, leather and rose
1,009 cases imported.—A.Z. (4/30/2020) made.—K.M. (4/30/2020) hip notes. Firm and balanced, with a minerally aftertaste.
Drink now through 2028. 180,000 cases made, 5,250 cases
35 91 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2017 $25 45 92 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes- imported.—B.S. (3/31/2020)
A sleek, minerally white, with well-cut acidity defining Hermitage Calendes 2017 $34 Juicy and compact,
flavors of white peach, pine and preserved lemon, show- featuring dark plum and blackberry fruit flavors, wrapped
ing a rich hint of passion fruit coulis. Fine and creamy, in sweet tobacco and licorice root notes. Shows a tarry
offering a lasting finish. Drink now through 2027. 30,000 edge on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases
cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—A.N. (2/29/2020) made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M. (2/29/2020)

55 93 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia 64 92 La Crema Pinot Noir Willamette

Straight Talk
Rioja Rosado Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 2009 Valley 2018 $35 Sleek and vibrant, with snappy rasp-
$33 The deep, rusty color announces that this is not a berry and red plum flavors accented by sweet basil and Join a series of Instagram conservations between
typical rosé. Distinctive, offering tangy acidity and light, spice and finishing with fine-grained tannins. Drink now Wine Spectator editors and respected leaders in the
firm tannins that frame the rich texture, giving this plenty through 2027. 26,434 cases made.—T.F. (11/30/2020) worlds of wine and hospitality, spanning current events,
of structure for food. Orange peel, tarragon, iodine and business news and personal thoughts.
beeswax notes frame the dried cherry and tangerine fla- 65 92 Ployez-Jacquemart Brut Champagne
vors. Unique. Garnacho, Tempranillo and Viura. Drink Extra Quality NV $45 A lovely hint of honeysuckle
now through 2029. 1,166 cases made.—T.M. (3/31/2020) accents the flavors of mirabelle plum, white cherry, anise
and grated ginger in this vibrant Champagne, which is
56 94 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley finely knit and detailed in texture, with a mouthwatering
José Zuccardi 2016 $45 Explosively fruity aromas finish of ripe fruit, spice and chalk accents. Disgorged
and flavors of blackberry, dark cherry and plum tart are November 2019. Drink now through 2025. 40,000 cases
creamy and filled with rich savory and cooking spice made, 6,930 cases imported.—A.N. (11/30/2020)
accents. Powerfully structured, showing dark chocolate
and mocha on the finish, with hints of dried mint. Drink 66 90 Invivo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
now through 2025. 5,000 cases made, 2,000 cases X, Sarah Jessica Parker 2019 $20 Succulent
imported.—K.M. (12/15/2020) and refreshing, with Key lime, preserved ginger and
green apple candy flavors that are intense and focused.
57 96 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2017 Reveals a hint of toasted green tea on the juicy finish.
$180 This starts slowly, with black tea and sunbaked Drink now. 55,000 cases made, 35,000 cases
loam aromas leading off, followed by a deep well of black imported.—M.W. (2/29/2020)
currant, fig and blackberry preserve flavors that form the
core. From there, iron and espresso cream threads line the 67 95 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf- Regular episodes air
finish, where the fruit drips slowly and the aromas linger du-Pape 2017 $112 A dark and winey style, offering Tuesdays and Thursdays
a mix of plum, black currant and black cherry notes,
seductively. This will be a slow burn. Cabernet Sauvignon,
infused with black tea, fruitcake and anise accents.
at 7 p.m. Eastern on our
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2042.
4,833 cases made.—J.M. (3/31/2020) Solidly built, vibrant and energetic from start to finish, Instagram Live channel
this carries copious fruit easily through the lengthy
58 93 Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet finish. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and
Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 $44 Distinctive, with Counoise. Best from 2020 through 2040. 3,500 cases
blueberry and açaí berry fruit flavors, infused liberally with imported.—J.M. (2/29/2020)
sassafras, bay leaf and sweet spice notes. A beautiful ren-
dition of mountain fruit, laced with racy acidity and car- 68 95 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon Mount
ried by smoldering tannins. Shows impressive detail and Veeder 2017 $100 This offers blackberry, boysenberry
energy for a 2017. Best from 2021 through 2035. 29,000 and açaí berry compote flavors that sparkle with
cases made.—J.M. (11/15/2020) anise, sassafras and sage accents. Shows serious tarry grip,
but that recedes into the fruit as this airs in the glass,
59 90 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc leaving embers of singed juniper and alder at the very
Walker Bay 2019 $16 This displays intensity and end. Best from 2023 through 2040. 2,700 cases
precision, with notes of fleur de sel and sage under- made.—J.M. (11/15/2020)
Now In Our IGTV Archives
scoring grapefruit and white peach flavors. Shows a bit of NOV. 19
crunch in texture. Long, inviting and quite balanced. 69 91 Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján
Ken Forrester, owner and winemaker of South African
Drink now through 2026. 9,000 cases made, 3,500 cases de Cuyo D.O.C Single Vineyard 2017 $27 Sandal- Chenin Blanc specialist Ken Forrester Wines
imported.—A.Z. (11/15/2020) wood-inflected dried cherry and berry flavors are filled
with sanguine richness. The lusciously spiced finish fea- NOV. 17
60 91 Il Conte Villa Prandone Rosso Piceno tures a creamy texture. Drink now through 2024. 27,500 Larry Stone, co-founder and CEO of Oregon’s Lingua
Superiore Marinus 2017 $24 A rich, medium- to cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—K.M. (10/31/2020) Franca Wines
full-bodied red in a well-tailored frame, knitting saturated NOV. 12
flavors of crushed boysenberry, pomegranate, black licorice, 70 92 Suavia Soave Classico Monte
CJ McCollum, NBA shooting guard and owner of
toast and spice to fine-grained tannins and a graphite-laced Carbonare 2017 $33 Svelte and finely knit, this vivid
white is driven by both its minerally underpinning and Pinot Noir brand McCollum Heritage 91
underpinning that echoes on the finish. Montepulciano
and Sangiovese. Best from 2021 through 2029. 7,000 cases its rapierlike acidic frame, components well-meshed with NOV. 10
made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N. (2/29/2020) the pleasing range of pink grapefruit sorbet, nectarine and Joel Gott, owner and winemaker, Joel Gott Wines
grated ginger notes, plus a touch of almond skin that NOV. 5
61 90 Marichal Tannat Canelones Premium imparts a light, tactile sensation to the racy finish. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Chef de cave at Champagne
Varietal 2018 $16 Pure-tasting red currant and Drink now through 2027. 3,500 cases made, 1,500 cases
Louis Roederer
raspberry flavors are supported by crunchy acidity in this imported.—A.N. (10/31/2020)
juicy style. Mineral and white pepper accents show NOV. 3
midpalate, with freshly crushed cooking spice details 71 91 Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon Nik Weis, owner and winemaker of Mosel Riesling
on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 2,200 cases Stellenbosch 2017 $27 Elegant, with dark plum and specialist Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof
imported.—K.M. (10/31/20) currant notes that are lively and balanced due to a bright
OCT. 29
beam of acidity and soft tannins, lending support and
62 90 Clos de la Grange Sauvignon Touraine Katharina Prüm, owner and winemaker of Germany’s
depth. Not a big Cabernet, but one that would pair well
2018 $16 An atypical version, with a gorgeous mix of with a variety of foods. Best from 2022 through 2033. historic Joh. Jos. Prüm
orchard blossom, yellow apple and elderflower flavors, 2,074 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.Z. (4/30/2020) OCT. 27
showing hints of lemon. Elegant yet very expressive, driven Dan Petroski, winemaker at Napa’s Larkmead Cellars
by vibrant acidity and a minerally backbone. Turns savory 72 90 Mercer Cabernet Sauvignon Horse and his own white-wine focused Massican label
on the well-defined finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,200 Heaven Hills Mercer Bros. 2017 $20 A spry and
appealing red, with lively black cherry and dried sage fla- OCT. 20
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.Z. (2/29/2020)
vors that add richness toward fine-grained tannins. Drink Andy Erikson, Napa Cabernet winemaker and
63 93 DeLille D2 Columbia Valley 2017 now through 2026. 14,980 cases made.—T.F. (6/30/2020) co-owner of Favia winery
$48 Opens with supple and expressive red currant, green
olive and clove flavors, then shifts gears and takes on WATCH ON INSTAGRAM
increasingly muscular yet polished tannins on the long Scan the QR code to start watching
finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and on our IGTV channel, or visit
Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2028. 12,600 cases instagram.com/wine_spectator/channel
made.—T.F. (9/30/2020)
NOV. 15, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 125

73 90 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marl- clean-cut finish. Drink now through 2025. 4,000 cases 92 90 Oremus Furmint Tokaji Mandolás
borough 2019 $20 Ruby grapefruit, passionfruit and imported.—A.N. (2/29/2020) 2018 $26 A ripe and juicy note of Jonagold apple is
green apple flavors are vibrant and expressive on a juicy 83 91 Golan Heights Winery Cabernet layered with hints of beeswax, chive blossom and almond
frame. Shows off terrific transparency to the fruit flavors, Sauvignon Galilee Yarden 2017 $36 Glossy, full skin in this well-cut, medium-bodied white, which
and a long finish where a touch of Dragonwell green tea tannins encase the brooding layers of dark cherry reduc- is lightly chalky in texture, with a saline-laced finish.
peeks through. Drink now. 40,000 cases made, 35,000 tion and steeped currant, infused with sandalwood, anise Drink now through 2023. 9,900 cases made, 1,250 cases
cases imported.—M.W. (12/15/2020) and mocha details. This has nice elegance despite the imported.—A.N. ()
74 91 Jermann Pinot Grigio Friuli 2017 $30 power, with black tea and floral notes chiming in on the 93 97 Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion
A minerally version, creamy and medium-bodied, with finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 24,000 cases 2017 $127 This is laden with cassis and warmed plum
tangy acidity and a zesty edge to the flavors of poached made, 4,000 cases imported.—G.S. (11/30/2020) compote notes, infused liberally with violet and anise
pear, apricot tart and anise, showing a hint of toasted al- 84 94 Delas St.-Joseph White Les Challeys accents. Gains depth and richness with air, yet maintains
mond that echoes on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 2019 $35 Very bright and engaging style, with a flurry a racy edge due to its mouthwatering acidity and perfectly
15,250 cases imported.—A.N. (8/31/2020) of honeysuckle and acacia notes out front followed embedded chalky spine on the finish. Merlot and Caber-
quickly by lively white peach, Jonagold apple and net Franc. Best from 2022 through 2040. Tasted twice,
75 92 Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2016 with consistent notes. 400 cases made.—J.M. (3/31/2020)
$46 A whiff of white pepper and bay leaf gives way to star fruit flavors. Light quinine inlay adds an extra note
bright raspberry and currant flavors backed by tangy of intrigue. Lovely. Drink now through 2027. 700 cases 94 90 Klinker Brick Grenache Blanc Lodi
acidity, along with details of game, anise and tea that made.—J.M. (12/31/2020) 2019 $15 Yellow apple, ripe Bartlett pear and tanger-
add depth and interest. Powerful but inviting. Mourvèdre 85 90 Koehler-Ruprecht Pinot Noir ine flavors are pure and lush, set on a medium frame,
and Grenache. Drink now through 2028. 8,000 cases Kabinett Trocken Pfalz 2017 $24 Quite juicy, with crisp acidity. Shows impressive focus and purity
made.—G.S. (11/30/2020) with wild cherry, hibiscus and black tea notes that are in of flavor. Fresh finish. Drink now. 750 cases
good harmony, supported by light tannins and prominent made.—M.W. (10/15/2020)
76 90 El Cep Brut Cava Gelida Gran Reserva
2015 $20 Apricot and tangerine flavors are set on the acidity. Offers a beautiful mouthfeel that coats the palate 95 93 Albert Morot Beaune Cent-Vignes
fine mousse of this expressive Cava, layered with hints of and invites you back for another sip. Drink now through 2017 $53 Precision and purity are the hallmarks of
pastry cream, toasted almond and candied ginger. Fresh 2027. 500 cases imported.—A.Z. (4/30/2020) this taut, linear red. Wild strawberry, cherry, stony
and zesty on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2022. 86 91 Château Thivin Brouilly Reverdon mineral and earth notes are finely woven into the dense
7,500 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N. (2/29/2020) 2018 $26 Lively acidity cuts through the bright cherry texture. Vibrant acidity drives the lingering finish. Best
and currant notes of this mouthwatering red, showing from 2022 through 2036. 500 cases made, 125 cases
77 96 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz imported.—B.S. (5/31/2020)
Mountains 2017 $230 Distinctive, with vibrant fla- details of white pepper, wet stone and dried herb that
vors of violet, juniper and anise out front, backed by a dovetail onto the finish. Offers light, integrated tannins, 96 90 Tenuta San Leonardo Sauvignon
core of intense dark currant, plum and cherry fruit. Firmly with great energy and focus throughout. Drink now Blanc Vigneti delle Dolomiti Vette 2018 $22
grounded, showing serious cut and drive through the bay through 2024. 1,900 cases imported.—G.S. (4/30/2020) A subtly perfumed, floral nose of jasmine and chive blos-
leaf– and sage-accented finish, which sports ample toast 87 96 Wine & Soul Douro Pintas 2017 $115 som draws you into the glass of this creamy, light- to me-
alongside the fruit and floral elements. A chiseled, ripped A generous, harmonious red, boasting steeped cherry, dium-bodied white, where mouthwatering acidity and
Cabernet for the cellar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, blackberry coulis and cedar flavors that meld into violet, finely knit flavors of nectarine, lemon curd and stone
Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through black tea and graphite accents. Details of olive, wild herb await. Drink now through 2025. 7,000 cases made, 650
2040. 3,750 cases made.—J.M. (11/15/2020) and ripe currant play into the finish. Powerful and refined. cases imported.—A.N. (8/31/2020)
78 95 Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2017 $111 Best from 2022 through 2035. 1,000 cases made, 70 cases 97 90 Fowles Shiraz Victoria Ladies
Very pure, with clearly defined plum, blackberry and imported.—G.S. (8/31/2020) Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment 2018 $35
black cherry preserve flavors gliding through, gently in- 88 93 Sleight of Hand The Archimage Blackberry and huckleberry flavors are concentrated and
fused with anise and black tea details along the way. The Reserve Columbia Valley 2016 $52 Svelte and plump, with appealing details of black tea, clove and dried
fruit is so seductive you might miss the sneaky, graphite- seamlessly complex, featuring refined cherry and blueberry mint. Firm tannins never get in the way, firming up slightly
edged grip that builds through the finish, promising flavors, with hints of lead pencil and spice that build on the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
solid cellaring potential. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and energy toward polished tannins. Cabernet Franc, Merlot imported.—M.W. (8/31/2020)
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2038. 3,333 cases and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2029. 750
made.—J.M. (3/31/2020) 98 94 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles 2017
cases made.—T.F. (3/31/2020) $55 A bright and fresh style, leading off with floral and
79 90 Stoller Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 89 90 Château Cambon La Pelouse bay leaf elements, followed by brisk-edged cassis and dam-
2018 $20 Supple and elegantly layered, with pretty Haut-Médoc 2017 $20 This packs in some bramble, son plum fruit flavors. The racy, mineral-pierced finish
raspberry, spiced cinnamon and black tea flavors that flesh black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors, harnessing shows good persistence. Best from 2022 through 2032.
out on a long finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,300 cases them with a singed alder frame and keeping them mov- 900 cases made, 40 cases imported.—J.M. (9/30/2020)
made.—T.F. (11/15/2020) ing along with fresh acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot 99 90 Grifalco della Lucania Aglianico del
80 90 Reata Chardonnay Sonoma Coast and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2025. 13,333 cases Vulture Gricos 2017 $20 This bright and well-knit
2018 $20 Rich, with flint and sea salt notes to the made.—J.M. (3/31/2020) red is medium- to full-bodied, with pleasing tension and
dried fig, quince and preserved lemon flavors, followed by 90 96 Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe creamy tannins defining flavors of mulberry, herbed olive
egg cream accents on the well-spiced finish. Drink now Felseneck GG 2018 $110 A very expressive, medium- and salty mineral. Aromatic accents of wild sage and ber-
through 2023. 5,200 cases made.—K.M. (11/15/2020) bodied version, with lots of flesh, offset by powerful acidity gamot linger on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 4,500
that gives this ample energy and drive. Notes of jasmine, cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—A.N. (10/31/2020)
81 96 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-
Léognan White 2017 $127 Juicy energy ripples from hops, yellow plum and kumquat impart charm midpalate, 100 91 Moric Burgenland Hausmarke 2017
start to finish, with gooseberry, yellow apple, chamomile, while hints of shaved ginger and lemon oil linger on the $25 This combines power and grace, with a ripe profile
tarragon and verbena notes giving this a tangy and long, well-defined finish. Best from 2023 through 2036. and lively acidity. Flavors of cherry and currant harmo-
flattering character. Reveals a long salted butter edge on 500 cases made, 56 cases imported.—A.Z. (6/30/2020) nize with hints of loam, underbrush and hibiscus tea.
the finish. Lovely now, but will fan out and become 91 90 Château Lamartine Malbec Cahors Complex and fresh-tasting, but also firm, this red is
plumper with time. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and 2016 $20 This focused red delivers smoke and mineral intriguingly long and inviting. Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt
Sauvignon Gris. Best from 2021 through 2030. 2,083 cases undertones flanking the plum and currant flavors, backed and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2026. 200 cases
made.—J.M. (3/31/2020) by moderate tannins. Accents of bay leaf, spice, violet imported.—A.Z. (2/29/2020)
82 90 Tormaresca Primitivo Salento and black licorice create depth and interest through
Torcicoda 2016 $20 Well-balanced and fresh, this the energetic finish. Malbec and Merlot. Drink
medium-bodied red features a thread of ground spice now through 2028. 7,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
that underscores flavors of crushed black raspberry, imported.—G.S. (11/15/2020)
cherry, thyme and red licorice. Light tannins sculpt the

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UNFILTERED
Sherry-laden ship commemorates Magellan’s historic voyage
Fortified Wine Sails Around the World

A
cross history, sailing ships have hauled treasures and other pre- San Julián, the isle of Guam and, appropriately, the Strait of Magellan.
cious cargo across the Seven Seas: gold, silver, spices and, of The ship is scheduled to return to Cádiz in July 2021, with the Sherry
course, wine. The Spanish Navy training vessel Juan Sebas- still on board.
tián de Elcano has been carrying on that last tradition since late sum- González Byass master blender Antonio Flores sent two 250-liter bar-
mer, when it embarked on a year-long, 44,000-mile voyage—with two rels for the journey (there wasn’t enough space for the more common
casks of Sherry aboard. 600-liter barrel). The seafaring wine is a special selection of 12-year-old
The wine is no stowaway. It’s on board to celebrate a historic tradi- Amontillado, the Viña AB “Estrella de los Mares,” which translates to
tion. Centuries ago, sailors found that the Sherries they hauled would “star of the seas.” Once it’s back on dry land, it will be bottled as “his-
improve on the journey. The science behind this sea aging is a bit foggy, torical wine.” Some of it will be sold commercially and some will be used
but it could have something to do with the gentle rocking and maritime to commemorate the Magellan-Elcano voyage.
influence the casks experience. (Fortified Madeira was another popular “We are very in touch with the culture, with all the traditions of our
ocean-goer.) country,” López de Carrizosa noted. “It’s a mixture of something roman-
“Someone realized that technically, the wine was better,” said José tic with something [technical] and authentic.”
Argudo López de Carrizosa, general marketing manager for top producer While this Amontillado won’t be sipped until it comes ashore, com-
González Byass. “When this was discovered, the Sherry winemakers mander de Colsa Trueba assured us that a separate
said, ‘Oh, why don’t we send [the Sherry] around the sea to different supply of wine was provided for the ship’s sailors
points, and on the way back we can sell it [for higher prices]?’ ” to enjoy in the officer’s chambers when docked
In August the company went to sea again as part of a voyage marking in port (drinking onboard is otherwise not
the 500th anniversary of Ferdinand Magellan and Juan Sebastián de El- permitted).
cano’s circumnavigation. Spain’s 93rd Marine Guard set sail on the El- “On this occasion, in which, due to the pan-
GONZÁLEZ BYASS MARKETING DEPARTMENT
cano, named for the navigator who took command of the voyage after demic, the crew cannot go ashore at the visited UNFILTERED
Read the full
Magellan’s death, for a training cruise around the world. It’s documented port, [this] takes on, if possible, greater impor- stories online, and
that Magellan sailed out of Sanlúcar (in Sherry country) with plenty of tance,” he explained. “A drink of Sherry helps get all the latest
Sherry on board—necessary provisions at the time. consolidate camaraderie and conviviality.” scoops on wine
According to Commander Santiago de Colsa Trueba, Elcano’s cap- After 500 years, it looks like Sherry is still a and pop culture!
WineSpectator.com/
tain, the steel-hulled, four-masted schooner barque will be revisiting staple for a journey around the world. Unfiltered
important stops from the original journey, including Argentina’s Bay of —Collin Dreizen

Wine Spectator - December 31, 2020

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TOP 100

No. 6 Kistler No. 70 Suavia

No. 19 Résonance No. 86 Château Thivin

COVER STORY Features

56 10 Years of Top 10s

60 Wines of the Year 1988 to 2019

64 Values in the Top 100

123 Tasting Notes for the Top 100 Wines

23Bubbly bonanza 128High-seas terroir

featuring fine wine marks 44 volumes and finds a new fandom

23 U.S. Sparklers This year’s best American bubblies

Cover photograph by Yuri Kriventsoff/Getty Images

102 New Wines From Around the World

103Reviews of wines from Austria

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Some Thoughts About Tom

NEW YORK CITY, 2013

brilliant job as executive editor at sister publication Whisky

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 9

M ARVIN R. S HANKEN • Editor and Publisher

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION

ADVERTISING AND INTEGRATED MARKETING

SHANKEN CREATIVE GROUP NEW YORK HEADQUARTERS

New Subscriptions, Renewals, Inquiries and Changes of Address

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 13

Women Detail Sexual Abuse by Master Sommeliers

NBA’s CJ McCollum Builds on His Passion for Pinot

16 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

Stop and Taste the Truffles

20 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

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eventful year at the pioneering Russian River

TIM FISH’S RECOMMENDED U.S. SPARKLING WINES

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

24 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

26 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

GILLIAN SCIARETTA’S RECOMMENDED WINES FROM BEAUJOLAIS

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Light-bodied, with complexity to the glossy currant and cherry notes,

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 27

30 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 33

36 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 39

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 41

This family-owned winery, founded in 1896, is run today by fourth-generation

42 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

Brut Champagne La Grande Année 2012

44 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

Ribera del Duero. The flagship

Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Esther Esteban represent the current

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 47

production. Its debut vintage of months in stainless steel tanks. 1,000

inique Génot made this blend of

48 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

picking some blocks earlier than he

months before release. 26,500 cases

DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 51

27 THE FOUR GRACES

52 WINE SPECTATOR • DEC. 31, 2020 - JAN. 15, 2021

Wright’s Pinots, this blend is vibrant,

34 Ribeauvillé, which sits on a fractured