Jeans

Making
Tool Kit
PATTERNS AND TEMPLATES
 Jeans Making Tool Kit
Patterns and templates for professional jeans making
This is my collection of patterns and templates that I use to
create professional-looking jeans. I’ve been using these tools
for over 10 years and they are exact copies of the pattern
pieces used in the garment industry.

I made these pieces since not all home-sewing jeans pat-

terns come with these exact styles, but luckily you can easily
adapt any jeans pattern using my patterns and templates.

Included in this package

• Back pocket pattern pieces with matching pressing tem-
plates (S-M-L)
Tutorial: Sewing back pockets the professional way
• Front jeans pattern pieces (S--L)
• Key pocket pattern pieces (S--L)
Tutorial: Sewing front pockets the professional way
• Zipper fly shield pattern piece (S--L)
• Zipper topstitch template (3 styles)
Tutorial: Sewing a jeans zipper
Video: Sewing a professional jeans zipper

Johanna Lundström, author of

Sewing Jeans: The complete step-by-step guide

Sewing Jeans: The complete

step-by-step guide
This comprehensive book takes you through the entire
process from picking the right fabric and notions to
completing a pair of jeans that will rival high-end denim
brands.
Take your skills to the next level with the help of clearly
illustrated, step-by-step instructions and easy to follow
techniques. All tutorials can be done using regular home
sewing machines and tools that are easy to access.
192 pages
Print & Ebook

JEANS MAKING TOOL KIT © Johanna Lundström thelaststitch.com

HOW TO PRINT

Use Adobe Acrobat Reader to print

the patterns. You can use both A4 &
Letter size papers.
1. To start printing click on File on
the top toolbar and click on Print
on the drop-down menu.
2. On the Page Sizing and Handling
options, choose either Actual Size
or Custom Scale and set it to 100%
to make sure that there is no re-
sizing happening while printing.
Tick on Choose paper source by
PDF size and set the Orientation
to Auto.
3. You can either check Current to
print the test page if this page
is seen in the preview window
to the right. Or in Pages to Print
options, tick Pages and type in
the page number where the test
square is found (Page 11)
4. Measure the test square to make
sure the measurements are
correct. If you have followed the
steps above, the size should be
correct. If not, go over the steps
again to make sure all the boxes
are checked correctly.
PDF PATTERN ASSEMBLY

Trim or fold the right + low border of the pages that

should be joined. Use tape or a glue stick to assem-
ble the pages.
Start from the top left and move to right for each
row, matching the letters and numbers in the tri-
angles or the page numbers. Piece together all the
rows to create a full pattern sheet.

PDF tutorial: thelaststitch.com/pdfassembly

JEANS MAKING TOOL KIT © Johanna Lundström thelaststitch.com

PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

BACK POCKETS FOLD

FOLD
JEANS PRESS TEMPLATE
SIZE: XS
JEANS BACK POCKET
SIZE: XS

A
A
USE STURDY PAPER
 CUT 1
 CUT 2

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

PLACEMENT OF ASYMMETRICAL POCKETS

The pocket style has asymmet-
rical slanted sides, meaning that
the pockets are slanted slightly Slanted side Slanted side
more on one side compared to the
other. That is very common in the
garment industry and is a way to
create a distinct visual shaping to
the area.
Usually, the most slanted side is
placed towards the crotch seam,
but play around with the place-
ment and see what works for you.

Press in seam
USING THE PRESS TEMPLATE
allowance
All sizes and versions of the back
pocket patterns come with a corre-
sponding press template. Retrace the
press template on heavier card stock
Press template
and press in the seam allowances
around it.
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

FRONT POCKETS
The tool kit includes pocket lining, plus shield
and coin pocket patterns.

FOLD
FOLD
JEANS FRONT POCKET POCKET
SHIELD
SIZE: S
1 CM (3/8”) SA

 CUT 2
COIN SIZE: S

POCKET
FOLD

A SIZE: S 1.2 CM (1/2”) SA  CUT 2

 CUT 1
1.2 CM (1/2”) SEAM ALLOWANCE 1.2 CM (1/2”) SA
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

ADJUSTING THE SEAM ALLOWANCE

Add SA
The seam allowances included on the
outside and upper edges of the front
pocket are 12 mm (1/2”). If your jeans
pattern has another seam allowance,
simply add or remove or that width on
the front pocket and the shield.
Note: 1.2 CM (1/2”) SEAM ALLOWANCE
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

There is no need to change the seam

allowances of the pocket opening since
you are using the pieces included in the
pattern kit for that.
Remove SA

If you are using a block pattern with no seam allowances and want to do the same for the
front pocket, just trim away the included seam allowances as shown on the pattern.

ADJUSTING THE SHAPE OF THE POCKET

3
You might need to adjust the front pocket
pattern piece if the jeans pattern you are
using has curved seams.
Using the included pattern lining:
1. Fold tool kit lining.
New
2. Place included lining with folded tool
kit lining. Align the edges.
3. Reshape the side seams and waist
seam, retracting or adding width
where needed.
2
1
JEANS MAKING TOOL KIT © Johanna Lundström thelaststitch.com
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

Using the jeans pattern 3

piece to shape the lining:
If your pants patterns lack a
shaped pocket opening and lining,
use this method instead:
1. Place the pattern on top of the
front pants piece. New
2. Fold it in two.
3. Reshape the edges by follow-
ing the shape of the pattern,
retracting or adding width.
1
2

ADJUSTING THE SHIELD

Reshape
Place the tool kit shield and the
pattern shield together and re-
shape where needed by adding or
retracting width. New

ADJUSTING THE POCKET OPENING

Reshape Reshape

New New

Option 1 Option 2
Place the pocket lining over the jeans If your pants patterns lack a shaped
and retrace the new shape. pocket opening, just trace the opening
and trim away the top part to create the
opening.
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

FLY PIECES
The zipper fly pattern pieces in the tool kit
makes it easy to sew a professional button fly if your
jeans pattern lacks this option

 CUT 1
 CUT 1

FLY SHIELD (BACKING) SIZE: S

FLY FACING SIZE: S

FOLD

1 CM (3/8”) SA

1 CM (3/8”) SA

ADJUSTING THE FLY PIECES

The fly pieces are made extra long
Shield Fly
for easy trimming. Either trim them 2 2
after sewing the fly together or
1 1
adjust the pattern before sewing:
1. Place the extension facing and
shield on the front jeans pattern
piece and adjust the length so
that it matches the zipper length
or button fly that you plan to use.
2. If the front crotch is slanted, 3
retrace the top of the shield and 3
facing so that the pattern follows
the shape of the crotch seam.
Tip: Fold the shield before you
retrace to make both layers even.
3. You can still cut the fly pattern
pieces vertically with a grainline, New
even if the crotch is slanted.

JEANS MAKING TOOL KIT © Johanna Lundström thelaststitch.com

JEANS FRONT POCKET
SIZE: S

 CUT 2

1A

1
2A
 1 CM (3/8”) SA

1A 1B
FOLD

1.2 CM (1/2”) SEAM ALLOWANCE

UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

2
2B
 FOLD
FOLD

KEY
POCKET
A
SIZE: S

 CUT 1
1.2 CM (1/2”) SA
1B 1C

3”

5 cm

3
2C
 1C
POCKET
SHIELD
SIZE: S

2D
1.2 CM (1/2”) SA  CUT 2

4
1D
 1D
POCKET
SHIELD
SIZE: M

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

2E
 CUT 2

5
 2A

JEANS FRONT POCKET

SIZE: M

 CUT 2

2A

6
3A
 2B

1 CM
FOLD

2A 2B

7
3B
 2C

FOLD
FOLD

M (3/8”) SA

KEY
POCKET
SIZE: M
2B 2C

 CUT 1 1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

8
3C
 2C
POCKET
SHIELD
SIZE: L

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA
2D

3D
 CUT 2

9
2D
 2E

FOLD
FOLD

2D KEY
POCKET
SIZE: L

 CUT 1 1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

10
3E
 3A

4A
1 CM (3/8”) SA

11
3A
 3A

FOLD
3B

4B
1.2 CM (1/2”) SEAM ALLOWANCE
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

12
3B
 3C

 CUT 1
 CUT 1

FLY FACING SIZE: L

FLY FACING SIZE: S

3B 3C

1 CM (3/8”) SA
1 CM (3/8”) SA

13
4C
 3C
ZIPPER TOPSTITCH TEMPLATE V.1

PAPER
3D

4D
ZIPPER TOPSTITCH TEMPLATE V.2

USE STURDY
ZIPPER TOPSTITCH TEMPLATE V.3

14
3D
 3D

1 CM (3/8”) SA
 CUT 1
FOLD
3E

4E
FLY SHIELD (BACKING) SIZE: S

15
5A
4A

JEANS FRONT POCKET

SIZE: L

 CUT 2

16
4A
 4B

4A 4B

17
5B
 4B

1 CM (3/8”) SA
FOLD

5C
4C

FLY SHIELD (BACKING) SIZE: L

 CUT 1

18
4C
 4C
FOLD
FOLD

JEANS BACK POCKET

SIZE: S

5D
4D

 CUT 2

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

19
4D
 4E

JEANS PRESS TEMPLATE

SIZE: S

A
4D

 CUT 1
USE STURDY PAPER

20
5E
 5A

FOLD
FOLD

JEANS BACK POCKET

SIZE: M

A
5A

 CUT 2

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

21
6A
 6B
22
JEANS PRESS TEMPLATE
SIZE: M
A
USE STURDY PAPER
5B
 CUT 1 5A
5B
 5C

FOLD
FOLD

JEANS BACK POCKET

SIZE: L

5B A 5C

 CUT 2

1.2 CM (1/2”) SA

23
6C
 5D

5C 5D

24
6D
 5D
JEANS PRESS TEMPLATE
SIZE: L

A
5E

6E
USE STURDY PAPER  CUT 1

25