© Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
The Author 11 Gaafaru Falhu
South Male’ Atoll
127
127

Getting Started 12 Ari Atoll 134

Thoddoo Island 134
Snapshot 16 Rasdhoo Atoll
Ari Atoll
134
137
Haa Alif 147
History 17
Northern Atolls 147
The Culture 25 Haa Dhaal 148
Shaviyani 150

Environment 37 Noonu
Raa
150
150
Baa 152
Choosing a Resort 47 Lhaviyani
Vaavu
155
159

Snorkelling,
Diving & Surfing 61 Southern Atolls 159
Meemu 161
Faafu 161
Food & Drink 84 Dhaalu 163
Thaa 165
Laamu 165
Male’ 88 Gaaf Alif 165
History 89 Gaaf Dhaal 166
Orientation 89 Gnaviyani 166
Information 89 Addu Atoll 167
Dangers & Annoyances 92
Sights 92
Walking Tour 96 Directory 173
Male’ for Children 98 Accommodation 173
Sleeping 98 Business Hours 174
Entertainment 102 Children 174
Shopping 102 Climate Chart 175
Getting There & Away 102 Courses 175
Getting Around 103 Customs 175
AROUND MALE’ 103 Dangers & Annoyances 175
Diving Sites 103 Embassies & Consulates 176
Viligili 103 Food 176
Hulhule’ 104 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 176
Hulhumale’ 104 Holidays 176
Other Islands 105 Insurance 177
Internet Access 177
Legal Matters 177
North & South Maps 177
Male’ Atolls 106 Money 178
North Male’ Atoll 106 Post 179
Kaashidhoo 127 Solo Travellers 180
© Lonely Planet Publications
10 C O N T E N T S

Telephone 180 GETTING AROUND 185

Time 180 Air 185 Language 189
Toilets 180 Boat 186
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
180
181
Car & Motorcycle 186
Glossary 191
Travel Permits 181 Health 187
Visas 182 BEFORE YOU GO 187 Behind the Scenes 193
Women Travellers 182 Insurance 187
Recommended
Vaccinations 187 Index 197
Transport 183 IN THE MALDIVES 187
GETTING THERE &
AWAY 183
Availability & Cost
of Health Care 187 World Time Zones 202
Entering the Country 183 Infectious Diseases 187
Air
Sea
183
184
Traveller’s Diarrhoea
Environmental Hazards
187
188
Map Legend 204

Regional Map Contents

Northern Atolls p149

North Male' & South Male' Atolls p108

Ari Atoll p135

Male' pp90–1

Southern Atolls p160

Regional Map
© Lonely Planet Publications
12 www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 13

There is no bad time to visit the Maldives, although if you’re interested

Getting Started in spending time in Male’ or any other inhabited islands, Ramazan (see
p176) is a time to avoid as restaurants are closed and people aren’t always
at their most receptive.
A country jealously guarding its cultural heritage and fragile ecology from
the onslaughts of Western consumerism, the Maldives is almost exclu- COSTS & MONEY
sively a place for the package tourist. Despite most independent travellers’ The Maldives is no cheap destination – you’ll hardly see a backpack the
worst fears, coming on a package offers the best value for money, the entire time you’re here (and if you do it will be being carried for some-
easiest organisation and generally promotes preferential treatment – this one by a member of resort staff) – and the government prefers it this
is the way the Maldives is set up and everyone from the government to the way, maximising revenue while keeping out the stoned hippies who so
resorts prefers you to travel this way. Fully independent travellers (FITs) outraged local conservative values when they began to trickle through
are a rare species but, with good planning and some decent financial in the 1970s.
lubrication, this is an equally possible way to travel. However you arrive Even the folk here on budget packages are fairly well heeled, and don’t
you’ll find the same astonishing white beaches, surreally blue water and fool yourself – even if you do get a cheap flight and accommodation deal, HOW MUCH?
exceptional service. unless it’s full board you’ll spend almost as much again on food and drink Male’–airport ferry
during your stay. US$1 or Rf10
WHEN TO GO While it’s possible to say that costs are high, it’s hard to be much more
The Maldives specialises in winter sun for Europeans, making high sea- specific, mainly because two travellers can pay vastly different sums for Cappuccino US$3
son December to April, when the islands enjoy the dry monsoon with the same deal at the same resort due to how they book – one travel agent Male’ whale submarine
little rain and lower humidity while Europe shivers. February to April is may have an excellent deal on the room rate, another a far worse one, ticket US$75
the hottest period and resorts are almost all operating at capacity dur- while an FIT will just have to pay whatever rate they are quoted directly Bed tax per person per
ing this period. Mid-December to early January comes at even more of by the resort reservations service. night US$8
a premium due to Christmas and New Year and prices are even higher. Extremely roughly then, expect to pay at the very least $100 per person
Easter and the Italian holiday week in August also attract peak prices at per day at the lower end for a room with full board. Midrange starts Flat taxi fare in Male’
most resorts, especially the Italian-oriented ones. around $200 per day and extends up to $500, while for about $500 a $2 or Rf15
From May to November is the period when storms and rain are more day, you enter the heady heights of the Maldives luxury market, which
likely. It’s still warm, but skies can be cloudy and the humidity is higher. currently seems to have no cap.
This is the low season, with fewer people and lower prices, with the For those with a modest budget, the best deal is a full board or all-
exception of August. inclusive package (including certain drinks, both alcoholic and non) that
Diving is good year-round, although a basic rule is that life on the includes flights and transfers. While it’s still a lot of money, you’ll spend
reef is more varied and visibility better on the western side of any almost nothing during your stay.
atoll from May to November and from the eastern side of any atoll
December to April. This means you’d be wise to choose your resort TRAVEL LITERATURE
accordingly. While the Maldives has been covered in some detail by photography and
The surfing season runs from March to October, which is great as this nature guides, there’s still precious little of any literary merit written about
is when resorts are cheapest. the place. This is perhaps unsurprising given the sun, sand and sea nature
of most travel here, but the following titles are definitely worth a look.
Rudie H Kuiter’s Photo Guide to Fishes of the Maldives is an indispens-
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… able book for divers and snorkellers, detailing some 700 species that live
„ Valid travel insurance on the reefs of the country, all beautifully illustrated with photographs
and descriptions of their habits.
„ Lots of sunscreen, sun block and after-sun
The Maldive Mystery, by Norwegian explorer and ethnologist Thor
„ A good pair of UV-blocking sunglasses Heyerdahl, is great for anyone wanting an overview of pre-Islamic Mal-
„ A sun hat divian history and the numerous unanswered questions, although many
of Heyerdahl’s theories are now discredited.
„ Flippers, mask and snorkel – if you’d like to do much snorkelling; most resorts charge for the
Andrew Forbes’ Maldives – Kingdom of a Thousand Isles is an odd mix
hire of a kit
of cultural overview, travel journal and resort guide. It’s best employed
„ Plasters – cutting your bare feet on coral or sharp shells is common as the first – the sections on history and traditional crafts are some of
„ Three-pin adaptors – the Maldives generally uses the UK-style electricity sockets (see p179) the most detailed available.
Divers’ Guide to the Sharks of the Maldives, by Dr RC Anderson, is
„ Lots of beach reading – don’t rely on paperbacks left by other guests unless you’re truly
undiscerning
another fascinating title that describes the various shark species divers
can encounter in the Maldives.
„ All the medication and birth control you’re likely to need Dive Guide The Maldives, by Sam Harwood and Rob Bryning, is one
„ Plastic bags for wet clothing and a waterproof jacket for the wetter months of the best dive guides in print, with reviews of all the main diving and
snorkelling sites in the country.
14 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s 15

Adrian Neville’s Male’ – Capital of the Maldives is a beautifully pre- INTERNET RESOURCES
sented coffee-table book with great photos of Male’ and its people. The Internet is an extremely important resource for the Maldives – not
Mysticism in the Maldives, compiled by Ali Hussain, documents super- only does it allow you to do virtual tours of nearly all resorts, it’s also
stitions, encounters with jinnis, supernatural phenomena and weird stuff. about the only forum for political debate in a country where the press
Published by Novelty, it’s out of print but still available in a few shops. and TV are tightly controlled by the state.
Classical Maldivian Cuisine, by Aishath Shakeela, is a fascinating and Friends of Maldives (www.friendsofmaldives.org) The website of the controversial British-based
informative book with delicious recipes for fish soup, fish, coconut and campaign group set up to protest against the Maldivian government’s human rights record. It’s a
curried fish – order from www.maldiviancuisine.com. good if depressing read and tells potential travellers how to avoid putting money into the govern-
ment coffers. See p47 for details.
Inner Maldives (www.innermaldives.com) One of the country’s best travel agencies has a great
INDEPENDENT TRAVEL website packed full of information, particularly good for FITs.
Independent travel in the Maldives is a challenge, but one risen to every year by many people, Maldives Culture (www.maldivesculture.com) Australian-based site with lots of background
who decide that paradise on a package is not their idea of fun. As a fully independent traveller information, Maldives news archive and critical discussion of Maldivian issues.
(FIT), you’ll be a rarity, confusing hoteliers and transfer agents wherever you go when you tell them Maldives Story (www.maldivesstory.com.mv) A government-backed history site that tells the
you don’t have a tour operator. This is a great, if sometimes expensive, way to travel; although, story of the country’s development from ancient history to the present day.
while you’re more independent than most package tourists, you still are not free to travel through Minivan News (www.minivannews.com) Excellent UK-based website reporting news from the
the Maldives properly due to the extreme restrictions on foreigners outside of resorts. Maldives of the sort you won’t get in the country.
Male’ is a great place to start for FITs – allow a couple of days in town to shop around Visit Maldives (www.visitmaldives.com) The official Maldives Tourist Promotion Board site has
several travel agencies and arrange onward travel, accommodation and even excursions and background information and data about virtually every resort, safari boat and tour operator in the
diving. FITs who want to get on a safari boat will certainly have to make arrangements in Male’ country.
(see p58). Due to the system of discounts offered to travel companies, even the most resolutely
independent traveller determined to see untouristed areas will benefit from the help of a good
travel agent or operator.
Male’ has over a quarter of the country’s population, relatively few tourists and is quite an
interesting place in its own right. If you eat in local teashops, visit the market and walk around
in the evenings, you’ll meet lots of locals. English is widely spoken and people will be more than
willing to chat. There are a few inhabited nonresort islands (Viligili, Hulhumale’, Thila Fushi and
Himmafushi), which you could reach and return from in a day.
It’s perfectly feasible to use Male’ airport as a transport hub from which you can take speed-
boat, dhoni, air and seaplane transfers to visit different resorts – all at your own pace. However,
this will be an expensive way to travel and planning will be essential, particularly in high season
(December to April) when most resorts are fully booked and last-minute changes hard to arrange.
Inner Maldives (p91) continues to come highly recommended as the travel agency best set up
to meet the needs of FITs.
It’s government policy to have tourists stay on island resorts or on boats within the ‘tourism
zone’. You need a travel permit to visit islands outside the tourism zone or to stay overnight
on any nonresort island. To get a travel permit (see p181) you need a sponsor to invite you to
the island concerned. If you want to visit islands that are occupied by Maldivians rather than
tourists, you still have a few options.
Firstly, you can stay in a resort and make day trips. Most resorts offer ‘island hopping’ trips
that visit local fishing villages, though these villages often have conspicuous souvenir shops
and persistent sellers. Some resorts are quite close to village islands; you can charter a dhoni to
visit the village without a big group. Resorts won’t allow you to use catamarans, windsurfers or
canoes to visit nearby islands, but if you explain what you want and you find a sympathetic ear,
you may get help. You won’t be allowed to stay in any village after 6pm.
The best resort to choose, if you want to visit local villages, is the Equator Village Resort (p171)
on Gan, in the far south of the country. Gan is linked by causeways to four other islands with
quite large villages and towns, including Hithadoo, the second largest settlement in the country
after Male’, and you can cycle, taxi or walk through all of them.
The second option is to arrange a safari-boat trip to the areas you’re interested in and make
it clear to the operator that you want to visit fishing villages. The operator will arrange permits
for all the people on the boat, and because you stay overnight on the boat, the accommodation
problem is solved. You will have to charter the whole boat, so you’ll need some other like-minded
passengers to share the expense.
 16

Snapshot
When hundreds of protesters occupied the main square in Male’ in
August 2004, it was the first time in any meaningful way the griev-
ances of a nation were publicly aired after three decades of rule by the
iron-fisted President Gayoom. The police brutality and repression that
followed put paid to the long-standing Maldivian whitewashing of its
own dictatorship in the name of tourism numbers – something the
government is seeking to redress by hiring international PR firms to
FAST FACTS wipe down its image again. Don’t be fooled by the idyllic photographs,
Area: 90,000 sq km the white sand and the dreamy blue sea; there’s trouble in paradise,
(above water 300 sq km) and it’s official.
Percentage of the country Despite this, it’s perfectly ordinary for people visiting the Maldives to
that is water: 99.9% have no idea about the political background to their holiday. The tour-
ism industry has been carefully engineered to avoid interaction between
Number of atolls: 26
travellers and locals as much as possible, bringing in massive revenues
Population: 360,000 without contaminating the population with liberal Western ideas. Des-
Percentage of population pite the veneer of freedom, travellers have no real chance to visit islands
living in Male’: 27% independently or to even spend the night anywhere but in an (albeit
rather lovely) resort.
GDP per capita: US$2509
A political survivor through and through, to appease his critics
Percentage of GDP spent Gayoom has promised changes to the constitution and multiparty elec-
on defence: 5.5% tions by 2008. However, the prospect of his giving up power voluntarily
Number of internally is remote – his family and allies run all aspects of the economy, they own
displaced people since resorts and reap much of the financial benefits of this country.
the tsunami: 11,000 Increasingly discredited internationally and hated internally, Gayoom
Inflation: 6.8%
cannot last much longer: that much is clear to most. But it’s anyone’s
guess what will follow him. While political parties are now legal, what will
Number of shark attacks happen if one actually has the audacity to win an election remains to be
since 1976: none seen. The leader of the main opposition group was arrested in 2005, later
charged with terrorism and sedition and is believed to have been tortured
in prison – and this before his party was even able to fight an election.
Rural poverty remains a further problem; the legacy of the 2004 tsu-
nami may no longer be visible in the tourist resorts or Male’, but visit an
uninhabited island and evidence of the devastation is still easy to find.
Furthermore there are an estimated 11,000 internally displaced people
who have yet to rebuild their lives.
Even if the Maldives overcomes its internal unrest, there remain far
bigger problems on the horizon, namely global warming. Just 1m above
sea level, the Maldives is expected to disappear almost totally by the
end of this century. Not for nothing did the government tourism board
once famously consider using the slogan ‘come and see us while we’re
still here’.
Travellers lucky enough to visit this wonderful country will discover
a peaceful people with a rich and fascinating culture of survival in the
middle of the ocean, as well as incredible natural beauty. It’s been a tough
few years for the Maldives, but this is no time to turn away from it. Go
and spend a wonderful holiday here, meet the locals and don’t be afraid
to ask awkward questions; you can contribute to building freedom in a
country denied it for too long.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
11

The Author
TOM MASTERS
Tom Masters is a London-based travel writer. His latest foray for Lonely
Planet took him across the Maldives, researching its incredible hotels and
resorts by speedboat, quite a change from his usual stamping ground of
Russia and Eastern Europe, but one that – it’s fair to say – he didn’t mind
one bit. Going back to Siberia will never be the same.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHOR
Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the Health chapter. She is a general practitioner and travel-medicine special-
ist who works at the CIWEC Clinic in Kathmandu; she is also a medical advisor to the Travel Doctor
New Zealand clinics. Trish teaches travel medicine through the University of Otago, and is interested
in underwater and high-altitude medicine, and in the impact of tourism on host countries. She has
travelled extensively through Southeast and East Asia and particularly loves high-altitude trekking in
the Himalayas.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
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the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
17

History
The history of the Maldives is that of a small, isolated and peaceful na-
tion constantly trying to contain the desires of its powerful neighbours
and would-be colonisers. It’s also an incredibly hazy history for the most
part – of which little before the conversion to Islam in 1153 is known.
Indeed, the pre-Muslim period is full of heroic myths, mixed with con-
jecture based on inconclusive archaeological discoveries.
The Maldivian character has clearly been shaped by this tumultuous
past: hospitable and friendly but fiercely proud and independent at the
same time, it’s safe to say that no conquering armies have got very far
trying to persuade the Maldivian people of its benevolence.
More recently the history of the country has been defined by the dic-
tatorship of Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, president for three decades and
a man often jokingly referred to as the CEO of the Maldives, because he
runs it like a giant tourist corporation. It’s no joking matter though, as
the police brutality and human rights abuses that have occurred under his
rule are shocking and – perhaps worst of all – virtually ignored around
the world.
Travels in Asia & Africa
1325-54, by Ibn Battuta,
EARLY DAYS has been reprinted in
Some archaeologists, including the now much-dismissed Thor Heyer-
paperback by Routledge
dahl, believe that the Maldives was well known from around 2000 BC,
Kegan Paul. Ibn Batutta,
and was a trading junction for several ancient maritime civilisations
a great Moorish
including Egyptians, Romans, Mesopotamians and Indus Valley trad-
globetrotter, was an early
ers. The legendary sun-worshipping people called the Redin may have
visitor to the Maldive
descended from one of these groups.
islands and wrote this
Around 500 BC the Redin either left or were absorbed by Buddhists,
history of the early
probably from Sri Lanka, and by Hindus from northwest India. HCP Bell,
Muslim period.
a British commissioner of the Ceylon Civil Service, led archaeological
expeditions to the Maldives in 1920 and 1922. Among other things, he
investigated the ruined, dome-shaped structures (hawittas), mostly in
the southern atolls, that he believed were Buddhist stupas similar to the
dagobas found in Sri Lanka (Ceylon).

CONVERSION TO ISLAM
For many years, Arab traders stopped at the Maldives en route to the
Far East – their first record of the Maldive islands, which they called
Dibajat, is from the 2nd century AD. Known as the ‘Money Isles’, the
Maldives provided enormous quantities of cowry shells, an international
currency of the early ages. The cowry is now the symbol of the Maldives
Monetary Authority. It must have been an almost magical land at the
time – forget money growing on trees, in the Maldives it was washed
up on the shore!
Abu Al Barakat, a North African Arab, is credited with converting the
Maldivians to Islam in 1153. According to the legend, young virgin girls
in Male’ were chosen from the community and left alone in a temple as
a sacrifice to Rannamaari, a sea jinni. One night Barakat took the place

TIMELINE 1153 1558

Islam officially adopted as the national religion The Portuguese invade the Maldives from India
 18 HISTORY •• The Por tuguese www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The 20th Century 19

of a prospective sacrificial virgin and drove the demon away by reading In the 1860s Borah merchants from Bombay were invited to Male’ to
from the Islamic holy book, the Quran. The Maldivian king at the time establish warehouses and shops, but it wasn’t long before they acquired
was sold on Islam, and ordered that the whole country convert. an almost exclusive monopoly on foreign trade. The Maldivians feared The Story of Mohamed
A series of six sultanic dynasties followed, 84 sultans and sultanas in the Borahs would soon gain complete control of the islands, so Sultan ThakurufaÌn, by Hussain
all, although some did not belong to the line of succession. At one stage, Mohammed Mueenuddin II signed an agreement with the British in Salahuddeen, tells the
when the Portuguese first arrived on the scene, there were actually two 1887 recognising the Maldives’ statehood and formalising its status as story of the Maldives’
ruling dynasties, the Malei (or Theemuge) dynasty and the Hilali. a protectorate. greatest hero, who liber-
ated the people from the
THE PORTUGUESE THE 20TH CENTURY Portuguese.
Early in the 16th century the Portuguese, who were already well estab- In 1932 the Maldives’ first constitution was imposed upon Sultan
lished in Goa in western India, decided they wanted a greater share of the Shamsuddin. Until this time the Maldives had always had an unwrit-
profitable trade routes of the Indian Ocean. They were given permission ten constitution much like the British, and historical records show that
The Maldive Mystery, to build a fort and a factory in Male’, but it wasn’t long before they wanted
by Thor Heyerdahl, the more from the Maldives.
Norwegian explorer of In 1558, after a few unsuccessful attempts, Captain Andreas Andre THE LEGEND OF THAKURUFAANU
Kon-Tiki fame, describes led an invasion army and killed Sultan Ali VI. The Maldivians called As the man who led a successful revolution against foreign domination, and then as the leader
a short expedition in the Portuguese captain ‘Andiri Andirin’ and he ruled Male’ and much of the newly liberated nation, Mohammed Thakurufaanu (sultan from 1573 to 1585) is the
1982–83, looking for of the country for the next 15 years. According to some Maldivian be- Maldives’ national hero. Respectfully referred to as Bodu Thakurufaanu (bodu meaning ‘big’
remains of pre-Muslim liefs, Andre was born in the Maldives and went to Goa as a young man, or ‘great’), he is to the Maldives what George Washington is to the USA. The story of his raid
societies. where he came to serve the Portuguese. (Apart from a few months of on the Portuguese headquarters in Male’ is part of Maldivian folklore and incorporates many
Malabar domination in Male’ during the 18th century, this was the only compelling details.
time that another country has occupied the Maldives; some argue that In his home atoll of Thiladhunmathee, Thakurufaanu’s family were known and respected as
the Portuguese never actually ruled the Maldives at all, but had merely sailors, traders and kateebs (island chiefs). The family gained the trust of Viyazoaru, the Portu-
established a trading post.) guese ruler of the four northern atolls, and was given the responsibility of disseminating orders,
According to popular belief, the Portuguese were cruel rulers, and collecting taxes and carrying tribute to the Portuguese base in Ceylon. Unbeknown to Viyazoaru,
ultimately decreed that Maldivians must convert to Christianity or be Thakurufaanu and his brothers used their position to foster anti-Portuguese sentiment, recruit
killed. There was ongoing resistance, especially from Mohammed Thaku- sympathisers and gain intelligence on the Portuguese. It also afforded the opportunity to visit
rufaanu, son of an influential family on Utheemu Island in the northern southern India, where Thakurufaanu obtained a pledge from the rajah of Cannanore to assist in
atoll of Haa Alif. Thakurufaanu, with the help of his two brothers and an overthrow of the Portuguese rulers in the Maldives.
some friends, started a series of guerrilla raids, culminating in an attack Back in Thiladhunmathee Atoll, Thakurufaanu and his brothers built a boat in which to conduct
on Male’, in which all the Portuguese were slaughtered. an attack on Male’. This sailing vessel, named Kalhuoffummi, has its own legendary status – it
This victory is commemorated annually as National Day on the first was said to be not only fast and beautiful, but to have almost magical qualities that enabled it
day of the third month of the lunar year. There is a memorial centre on to elude the Portuguese on guerrilla raids and reconnaissance missions.
the island of Utheemu to Thakurufaanu, the Maldives’ greatest hero, who For the final assault, they sailed south through the atolls by night, stopping by day to gather
went on to found the next sultanic dynasty, the Utheemu, which ruled provisions and supporters. Approaching Male’, they concealed themselves on a nearby island.
for 120 years. Many reforms were introduced, including a new judicial They stole into the capital at night to make contact with supporters there and to assess the
system, a defence force and a coinage to replace the cowry currency. Portuguese defences. They were assisted in this by the local imam, who subtly changed the times
of the morning prayer calls, tricking the Portuguese into sleeping late and giving Thakurufaanu
PROTECTED INDEPENDENCE extra time to escape after his night-time reconnaissance visits.
The Portuguese attacked several more times, and the rajahs of Can- The attack on Male’ was carefully planned and timed, and allegedly backed by supernatural
nanore, South India, (who had helped Thakurufaanu) also attempted to forces – one story relates how a coconut tree mysteriously appeared in the Portuguese compound,
gain control. In the 17th century, the Maldives accepted the protection and provided cover for Thakurufaanu as he crept close and killed Andiri Andirin with a spear. In
of the Dutch, who ruled Ceylon at the time. They also had a short-lived the ensuing battle the Maldivians, with help from a detachment of Cannanore soldiers, defeated
defence treaty with the French, and maintained good relations with the and killed some 300 Portuguese. Most versions of the story have the Portuguese drinking heavily
British, especially after the British took possession of Ceylon in 1796. on their last night, making it a cautionary tale about the evils of alcohol.
These relations enabled the Maldives to be free of external threats while The Thakurufaanu brothers then set about re-establishing a Maldivian administration under
maintaining internal autonomy. Nevertheless, it was the remoteness of Islamic principles. Soon after, Bodu Thakurufaanu became the new sultan, with the title of Al
the islands, the prevalence of malaria and the lack of good ports, naval Sultan-ul Ghazi Mohammed Thakurufaanu Al Auzam Siree Savahitha Maharadhun, first Sultan of
stores or productive land that were probably the main reasons neither the the third dynasty of the Kingdom of the Maldives.
Dutch nor the British established a colonial administration.

1573 1834 1887 1932

Expulsion of the Portuguese Moresby begins his celebrated charting of the Maldives Maldives becomes a self-governing British Protectorate The country writes its first constitution, curbing the sultan’s
powers
 20 HISTORY •• British Bases & Southern Secession www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Republic 21

pre-20th century Maldives was relatively progressive and democratic In 1965 Britain recognised the islands as a completely sovereign and in-
by the standards of the time. However, the imposition of the constitu- dependent state, and ceased to be responsible for their defence (although
tion marks the dawn of true Maldivian statehood. The sultan was to it retained the use of Gan and continued to pay rent until 1976). The
be elected by a ‘council of advisers’ made up of Maldivian elite, rather Maldives was granted independence on 26 July 1965 and later became a
The Maldive Islands: than being a hereditary position. In 1934, Shamsuddin was deposed and member of the UN.
Monograph on the History, Hasan Nurudin became sultan.
Archaeology & Epigraphy WWII brought great hardship to the Maldives. Maritime trade with THE REPUBLIC
is HCP Bell’s main work. Ceylon was severely reduced, leading to shortages of rice and other ne- Following a referendum in 1968 the sultanate was again abolished, Sultan
The Ceylon Government cessities – many died of illness or malnutrition. A new constitution was Majeed Didi retired to Ceylon and a new republic was inaugurated. Nasir
Press published it in introduced in 1942, and Nurudin was persuaded to abdicate the following was elected president. In 1972, the Sri Lankan market for dried fish, the
1940, three years after year. His replacement, the elderly Abdul Majeed Didi, retired to Ceylon Maldives’ biggest export, collapsed. The first tourist resorts opened that
leaving the control of the government in the hands of his prime minister, year, but the money generated didn’t benefit many ordinary inhabitants Norwegian explorer
his death. Original copies
Mohammed Amin Didi, who nationalised the fish export industry, insti- of the country. Prices kept going up and there were revolts, plots and and ethnographer Thor
of the book are rare,
tuted a broad modernisation programme and introduced an unpopular banishments as Nasir clung to power. In 1978, fearing for his life, Nasir Heyerdahl was fascinated
but Novelty Press has
ban on tobacco smoking. stepped down and skipped across to Singapore, reputedly with US$4 by the Maldives and
reprinted it and it’s avail-
When Ceylon gained independence in 1948, the Maldivians signed a million from the Maldivian national coffers. its pre-Islamic culture.
able from several tourist
defence pact with the British, which gave the latter control of the foreign A former university lecturer and Maldivian ambassador to the UN, Although he spent many
shops and bookshops
affairs of the islands but not the right to interfere internally. In return, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, became president in Nasir’s place. Hailed as a years trying to uncover
in Male’.
the Maldivians agreed to provide facilities for British defence forces, reformer, Gayoom’s style of governing was initially much more open, and the secrets of the past,
giving the waning British Empire a vital foothold in the Indian Ocean he immediately denounced Nasir’s regime and banished several of the many of his conclusions
after the loss of India. former president’s associates. A 1980 attempted coup against Gayoom, were later rejected.
In 1953 the sultanate was abolished and a republic was proclaimed involving mercenaries, was discovered and more banishment occurred.
with Amin Didi as its first president, but he was overthrown within a What had started as a forward-looking, reform-minded regime was al-
year. The sultanate was returned, with Mohammed Farid Didi elected as ready beginning to look very suspect.
the 94th sultan of the Maldives. Gayoom was re-elected in 1983 and continued to promote education,
health and industry, particularly tourism. He gave the tiny country a
BRITISH BASES & SOUTHERN SECESSION higher international profile with full membership in the Commonwealth
While Britain did not overtly interfere in the running of the country, it and the South Asian Association for Regional Co-operation (SAARC).
did secure permission to re-establish its wartime airfield on Gan Island The focus of the country’s economy remained the development of tour-
in the southernmost atoll of the country, Addu. In 1956 the Royal Air ism, which continued throughout the 1980s.
A Description of the Force began developing the base, employing hundreds of Maldivians
Maldive Islands for the and resettling the Gan people on neighbouring islands. The British were THE 1988 COUP
Journal of the Royal informally granted a 100-year lease of Gan that required them to pay In September 1988, 51-year-old Gayoom began a third term as president,
Asiatic Society, by HCP £2000 a year. having won an election where he was the only candidate, again. Only a
Bell, the most renowned When Ibrahim Nasir was elected prime minister in 1957, he immedi- month later a group of disaffected Maldivian businessmen attempted a
historian of the Maldives ately called for a review of the agreement with the British on Gan, de- coup, employing about 90 Sri Lankan Tamil mercenaries. Half of these
and former British com- manding that the lease be shortened and the annual payment increased. soldiers infiltrated Male’ as visitors, while the rest landed by boat. The
missioner in the Ceylon This was followed by an insurrection against the Maldivian government mercenaries took several key installations, but failed to capture the Na-
Civil Service, draws from by the inhabitants of the southern atolls of Addu and Huvadhoo, who tional Security Service (NSS) headquarters.
his archaeological expedi- objected to Nasir’s demand that the British cease employing local labour. More than 1600 Indian paratroopers, immediately dispatched by the
tions in 1920 and 1922. They decided to cut ties altogether and form an independent state, elect- Indian prime minister, Rajiv Gandhi, ended further gains by the invad-
ing Abdulla Afif Didi president. ers who then fled by boat towards Sri Lanka. They took 27 hostages and
In 1960 the Maldivian government officially granted the British the left 14 people dead and 40 wounded. No tourists were affected – many
use of Gan and other facilities in Addu Atoll for 30 years (effective from didn’t even know that a coup had been attempted. The mercenaries were
December 1956) in return for the payment of £100,000 a year and a caught by an Indian frigate 100km from the Sri Lankan coast. Most were
grant of £750,000 to finance specific development projects. Later, Nasir returned to the Maldives for trial: several were sentenced to death, but
sent gunboats from Male’ to quash the rebellion in the southern atolls. reprieved and returned to Sri Lanka.
Afif fled to the Seychelles, then a British colony, while other leaders The coup attempt saw standards of police and NSS behaviour decline.
were banished to various islands in the Maldives. Afif later became the Many people in police captivity faced an increased use of torture and the
Seychelles foreign minister. NSS became a widely feared entity.

1953 1965 1972 1976

The Republic of Maldives is declared and the sultanate abandoned The Maldives finally gains full independence from Britain Kurumba Island, the Maldives’ first holiday resort, opens The British Naval Base at Gan closes
 22 HISTORY •• Growth & Development www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Black Friday 23

GROWTH & DEVELOPMENT

In 1993 Gayoom was nominated for a fourth five-year term, and con- JENNIFER LATHEEF
firmed with an overwhelming referendum vote (there were no free elec- A young journalist, human rights activist and member of the Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP),
tions again, obviously). While on paper the country continued to grow Jennifer Latheef was arrested during the Male’ riots following the Evan Naseem murder in 2003,
economically, through the now massive tourism industry and the stable where she was protesting peacefully for an end to police brutality. She was eventually sentenced
fishing industry, much of this wealth was concentrated in the hands of a to 10 years’ imprisonment for ‘terrorism’, was subjected to cruel and degrading treatment in jail
small group of people, and almost none of it trickled down to the people and was declared a Prisoner of Conscience by Amnesty International. Jennifer was subsequently
of the atolls. released after a presidential pardon she initially refused to accept, because it did not exonerate
At the same time, the Maldives experienced many of the problems of her of crimes. She continues to campaign for the release of political prisoners.
developing countries, notably rapid growth in the main city, the environ-
mental effects of growth, regional disparities, youth unemployment and
income inequality. senior ministers or Adam Zahir, the NSS chief of staff. Gayoom’s other
The 1998 El Niño event, which caused coral bleaching throughout the measure was to hire the London office of PR giant Hill & Knowlton to
atolls, was detrimental for tourism and it signalled that global warming whitewash his dictatorship, a job they continue to do today with sickening
Read about the human- might threaten the existence of the Maldives. When Gayoom began a success. Meanwhile, the Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) was founded
rights situation in the fifth term as president in 1998, the environment and sea-level rises were in Colombo in nearby Sri Lanka.
Maldives in the Amnesty priorities for him. For all his failings, Gayoom has certainly done a good
International reports job of promoting awareness of environmental change and rising sea BLACK FRIDAY
‘Republic of Maldives: levels, which are likely to see the country totally submerged by the end Under pressure from colleagues, and clearly trying to outsmart the re-
Repression of Peaceful of the 21st century (see p44). formists, Gayoom launched his own reform programme in 2004. His
Political Opposition’ and The 1990s saw the Maldives develop hugely – the whole country proposals were astonishingly all encompassing, including having more
‘Maldives: Human Rights became linked up with a modern telecommunications system, and mo- than one candidate in the presidential referendum, a two-term limit for
Violations in the Context bile phones and the Internet became widely available. By the end of the president and the legalisation of political parties.
of Political Reforms’, at the century 90% of Maldivians had electricity and basic hospitals and However, just a month later Gayoom banned political meetings of
http://web.amnesty.org higher secondary schools centres had been established in outer atolls. prodemocracy activists in Male’ as they are proving too popular. The
/library/engindex With Japanese assistance Male’ was surrounded by an ingenious sea wall, darkest moment so far for the democracy movement, known to all now as
which was to prove very useful just a few years later when the tsunami Black Friday, took place on 13 August 2004. Reformist and prodemocracy
struck. In 1997 work began on a new island, an extra metre or so above campaigners all gathered in the capital’s main square, encouraged by the
sea level, near the capital to accommodate a growing population. It’s apparent lack of obstruction from the NSS. Former political prisoners ‘On the
the only logical future the country has, given the total lack of action to and well-known reformists all attended with the apparent blessing of morning of
prevent global warming by the international community. Gayoom, and carried out a successful meeting calling for reform. Sud-
denly the NSS cleared the square, arresting and beating over a thousand 26 December
THE EVAN NASEEM KILLING people in the process. Women and children were savagely beaten, and 2004 the
In September 2003 shots rang out in Maafushi Prison in South Male’ many were taken into solitary confinement, where they remained for Indian Ocean
Atoll, easily within earshot of tourists enjoying romantic evening walks months.
on the beach of nearby Coco Island. Little were they to know that these tsunami
were indiscriminate shootings of inmates protesting at the brutal murder TSUNAMI devastated
of 19-year-old inmate Evan Naseem, a prisoner who was beaten to death The stand-off between government and people continued without any countries
by prison guards. obvious resolution throughout 2004, although international protests in-
When Evan Naseem’s family put their son’s brutally tortured corpse creased with human rights advocates Friends of Maldives attending the throughout
on display there was a huge public outcry. Male’ spontaneously erupted World Travel Market and handing out flyers to delegates to increase the region.’
in rioting, the People’s Majlis (Parliament), also known as the Citizen’s awareness of the country’s domestic problems and the increased reader-
Council, was stoned and police stations were burned by the mob. The ship of anti-Gayoom Internet sites within the Maldives.
NSS orchestrated mass reprisals and beatings against the rioters, making On the morning of 26 December 2004 the Indian Ocean tsunami
an ugly situation even worse. To fan the flames of popular anger, in the devastated countries throughout the region. While it could have been
same month President Gayoom was renominated as the sole presiden- much, much worse for the Maldives, whose vast, deep inter-atoll channels
tial candidate for the referendum by the Majlis, which is stacked full of absorbed much of the strength of the wave, the result was still devastating.
Gayoom family members and other appointed flunkies. Realising that Eighty-three people were confirmed dead, with a further 25 feared dead,
something was up, Gayoom did make an example of the torturers who their bodies never having been discovered. Twenty-one islands were dev-
killed Evan Naseem, but stopped short of punishing or removing any astated, with over 11,000 people made homeless, many of whom continue

1978 1982 1988 1998

President Gayoom comes to power The Maldives rejoins the British Commonwealth A coup d’état attempt by Sri Lankan mercenaries in Male’ is quickly The El Niño weather system causes coral bleaching in the Maldives
foiled with Indian assistance
24 H I S T O R Y • • Ts u n a m i www.lonelyplanet.com

today to exist as IDPs (internally displaced persons). Large numbers of

resorts were closed and although one was totally abandoned, the rest were
rebuilt with incredible speed, nearly all being open again a year later.
In the aftermath of these terrible events, President Gayoom did at least
drop charges against many of the Black Friday protestors and they were
released, although at the time of writing the situation is still not very
positive. While it’s clear that torture has ceased being a major part of
imprisonment in the Maldives, brutality both in and out of jail continues
and basic freedom of expression is still not respected anywhere. The next
few years will probably be key to the future of the country – Gayoom is
under pressure and few expect him to last much longer. However, with no
tradition of democracy, no independent print media and paper-thin civil
society, there’s little reason for optimism even if Gayoom does relinquish
power any time soon.

2004 2005
Indian Ocean tsunami wreaks havoc on the island chain Parliament votes to allow multiparty elections
 25

The Culture
NATIONAL PSYCHE
The recent prodemocracy movement has revealed one deep truth about
Maldivian people: their fierce independence, which runs true dom-
estically as well as internationally. Tacitly accepting one-party state for
years, until the alleged corruption and police brutality outstripped the
benefits gained by the country through the vast-scale development of
tourism, the Maldivians finally decided they had had enough in 2003
and the staunch and brave reform movement has made some huge gains
over the past few years.
Maldivians are devout Muslims. In some countries this might be con-
sidered incidental, but the national faith is the cornerstone of Maldivian
identity and it’s defended passionately at all levels of society. Officially The annual rate of
100% of the population are practising Sunni Muslims. There’s no scope population growth is
for religious dissent, but there’s also almost no desire to dissent. This deep about 3%.
religious faith breeds a generally high level of conservatism, but that does
not preclude the arrival of hundreds of thousands of non-Muslim tourists
to the islands every year, coming to bathe seminaked, drink lots of alcohol
and engage in extra-marital sex. It’s definitely an unusual contradiction.
Arguably, were the tourist industry not so carefully engineered to separate
the tourists and local population, there would be far more cultural clashes
and tension between devout Islam and Western liberalism.
A deep island mentality (familiar to the British) also permeates the
country. Not quite Asia, not quite Africa and not the Middle East despite
the cultural similarities, the Maldives has been slow to join the interna-
tional community (it joined the Commonwealth and the South Asian
Association for Regional Co-operation only in the 1980s) and remains a
nonaligned nation with no particular enemies or allies.
The hardship implicit in survival on these relatively barren islands
so remote in the ocean has created a nation of hard workers. The work
ethic runs throughout the country; historically a lazy Maldivian was a
Maldivian who didn’t eat.
Another much-ignored feature of the Maldivian people is their earthy
humour and cheerfulness. Joking and laughter is a way of life and you’ll
notice this without even leaving your resort – take a few minutes to speak
with the local staff and you’ll see this for yourself.

LIFESTYLE
The most obvious dichotomy in lifestyle in the Maldives is between
people in the capital Male’ and those ‘in the atolls’ – the term used by
everyone to denote ‘islanders’ or anyone who lives outside the immediate The Maldivian caste
area of bustling modernity that is Male’. system has effectively
In Male’ life is considerably easier and more comfortable than in the disappeared today.
rest of the country on most fronts, with the obvious exception of space. Traditionally the very
Life in Male’, one of the most densely populated places on earth, is only lowest caste was that of
good for those who have decent-sized houses. With all the new develop- the palm-toddy tappers
ments on Hulhumale’ island near to the capital, there should be a gradual (raa-veri).
decrease in population and thus a slight easing of the population crush
there in the next few years. The Gayoom years have created a massive
economy in Male’, although many more intellectual residents of the city
complain that while there are plenty of opportunities to earn and live well
in the commercial and tourism sectors, there’s a great lack of challenging,
 26 T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 27

creative jobs if exporting fish and importing tourists is not your idea of small and do not go past fifth grade. For grades six and seven, children
fun. With limited education beyond high school and a lack of careers may have to go to a middle school on a larger island. Atoll capitals have
for the ambitious without good connections in the government, it’s no an Atoll Education Centre (AEC) with adult education and secondary
You can address
surprise that many young people in Male’ dream of going abroad, at least schooling to grade 10 (16 years old).
Maldivians by their first
to complete their education and training. Officially, 90% of students finish primary school, and the adult literacy
or last name. Since so
In the islands things are far more simple and laid-back, but people’s rate is 98%. English is taught as a second language from grade one and
many men are called
lives aren’t always as easy as those in Male’. In the atolls most people live is the usual teaching language at higher secondary school – Maldivians
Life expectancy for a Mohammed, Hassan or
in the extended family homestead (it’s unusual to live alone or just as a with a secondary education speak excellent English.
Maldivian is about 63 Ali, the surname is more
couple in a way that it wouldn’t be in Male’), and both men and women The best students can continue to a free-of-charge higher secondary
years for men and 65 appropriate. In some
assume fairly traditional roles. While men go out to work (in general school, which teaches children to the age of 18 – there’s one in Male’,
years for women. cases an honorary title
either as fishermen or on jobs that keep them away from home for long one in Hithadhoo, in the country’s far south, and one in Kulhuduffushi,
like Maniku or Didi is
stretches at a time in the tourist or shipping industry), women are the in the far north. Students coming to Male’ to study generally take live-in
used to show respect.
homemakers, looking after the children, cooking and maintaining the domestic jobs, affecting their study time: girls are often expected to do
household. Fish is traded for other necessities at the nearest big island. a lot of housework.
Attending the mosque is the main religious activity, and on smaller The Maldives College of Higher Education, also in Male’, has faculties
islands it’s probably the main social and cultural activity as well. of health, education, tourism-hospitality and engineering. For university
The most important ritual in a man’s life comes when he is circumcised studies, many young Maldivians go abroad, usually to Sri Lanka, India,
at the age of six or seven. These are big celebrations that last for a week Britain, Australia or Fiji.
and are far more significant than marriages (not a big deal) and birthdays There is a system of bonded labour under which people must work
(not celebrated). Marriage is of course important, but it’s not a massive for the government at a meagre wage for a period that depends on the
celebration like in most of the rest of Asia. length of their education in government schools. For many this means a
Rural life for the young can be fairly dull, although despite appear- period in the National Security Service or in a government office. They
ances even tiny fishing villages are surprisingly modern; most now have may pursue another occupation part-time to establish their career or to
telephones, radio and TV. Nevertheless many teenagers effectively go to make ends meet. Many people in Male’ have a second job or a business
boarding school, as provision for education outside population centres is interest on the side.
scant. There are a few preschools or kindergartens, where children start
learning the Quran from about the age of three. There are government ECONOMY
primary schools (madrasa) on every inhabited island, but some are very Fish and ships just about sum up the Maldivian economy beyond the
tourist industry. Despite this, the economy continues to experience large
growth, even if it was inevitably curtailed by the tsunami in 2004. Despite
DOS & DON’TS a 5% contraction in GDP in 2005, the Maldives was already staging a
Maldivian resorts make it quite clear what guests should and shouldn’t do. Guests must respect strong recovery in 2006, with full capacity in most resorts, a great feat
Cars remain the ultimate
the environment (no damage to fish or coral) and they must respect Muslim sensibilities. Nudity is considering many had thought the tsunami spelled the end for the mas-
status symbol here, even
strictly forbidden and women must not go topless; bikinis and brief bathers are quite acceptable sive growth in travel to the Maldives.
in a country with virtually
in resorts, though most prefer that you cover up in the bar, dining and reception areas. In Male’ Tourism is the country’s biggest earner, accounting for around 20%
no roads. Some atoll
and on other inhabited islands, travellers should make an effort not to offend local standards. of GDP. Fishing accounts for about 18% with skipjack tuna making
chiefs have cars simply to
Men should never go bare-chested and women should avoid low-cut tops and tank tops. Long the principal catch, followed by yellowfin tuna, little tuna and frigate
show off, on their entirely
pants or long skirts are preferable, but shorts are OK if they cover the thighs. mackerel.
sand-covered islands. At
It’s best to dress neatly and conservatively when dealing with officials and businesspeople. Government policies have helped to mechanise the fishing fleet, intro-
least it’s environmentally
Maldivian professional men always wear long trousers, clean shoes (often slip-ons), a shirt and usu- duce new packing techniques and develop new markets. Nevertheless, the
friendly…
ally a tie. Women usually wear dresses below the knee and covering the shoulders and arms. fishing industry is vulnerable to international market fluctuations. Most
Those who spend time outside the resorts should be aware of a few more points: adult males have some experience in fishing, and casual employment on
„ Lose the shoes – people take their shoes off before going inside a house or mosque. Maldiv-
fishing boats is something of an economic backstop. Men are unlikely to
ians can slip off their footwear without breaking step, but visitors may find it inconvenient. take on menial work for low pay when there is a prospect that they can
Slip-on shoes are easier than lace-ups, and thongs (flip-flops) are easier than sandals. get a few days or weeks of relatively well-paid work on a fishing dhoni
(boat; see the boxed text, p29).
„ Keep your cool – be patient and polite, especially in government offices that can be painfully
Trade and shipping (nearly all based in Male’) is the third biggest
slow and frustrating.
earner; nearly all food is imported and agriculture accounts for less than
„ Payment etiquette – if you ask someone to lunch, that means you’ll pay for it; and if someone 3% of GDP. Manufacturing and construction make up 15% of GDP: small
else asks you, don’t reach for the bill. boat yards, fish packing, clothing and a plastic pipe plant are modern
„ Religion rules – Islam is the state religion, so be aware that prayer times take precedence over enterprises, but mostly it’s cottage industries producing coconut oil, coir
business and pleasure, and that Ramazan, a month of fasting, places great demands on local (coconut-husk fibre) and coir products such as rope and matting. Some
people. Visiting a mosque requires long pants or a long skirt and no shoes. Never consume of the new industrial activities are on islands near Male’ while others,
alcohol or pork outside resorts. such as fish-packing plants, are being established in the outer atolls.
There is no income tax.
 28 T H E C U LT U R E • • P o l i t i c s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • M e d i a 29

POLITICS ‘Independent’) has been subject to harassment and intimidation. Rabidly

The Maldivian parliament, the People’s Majlis (Parliament; also known anti-Gayoom (it’s far less measured than the English-language website),
as the Citizens’ Council), has 50 members. Male’, the capital island, and its printing press was closed down, several of its journalists and editors An interatoll ferry serv-
each of the 20 administrative atolls have two representatives each, elected were imprisoned and it was being printed using an office printer at the ice, which was due to be
for five-year terms. All citizens over 21 years of age can vote. The presi- time of writing! The government is hoping to exploit a clause in the inaugurated in 2004, has
dent chooses the remaining eight parliamentary representatives, has the media law, which says a newspaper’s licence can be revoked if it misses been put on hold indef-
power to appoint or dismiss cabinet ministers, and appoints all judges. four successive editions. However, if the staff heroically keep it coming initely. If it ever makes
Check out www
The Majlis considers candidates for the presidency for each five-year out regularly, it’s such a popular paper that the government are likely to a comeback, the scope
.presidencymaldives.gov
term and makes a nomination, which is put to a national vote. Until close it down at some point in the near future. for individual travel will
.mv for the latest infor-
recently only one candidate was put forward, so the vote is not so The Internet is the medium of choice for people who want to write increase massively.
mation on what President
Gayoom is up to.
much an election as a national referendum. Since the nascent demo- freely – any educated person with Internet access in Male’ will start the
cratic movement became a big political player in 2003–4, President day by reading the Dhivehi Observer (www.dhivehiobserver.com), a tabloid run
Gayoom has agreed to multiple candidates for the presidency as well from exile in the UK by modern-day folk hero Ahmed Moosa, known
as legalising political parties. However, at the time of writing the situ- to one and all as Sappe’. Irreverent, hard-hitting and a self-declared anti-
ation was looking bleak, with opposition leaders intimidated, in exile Gayoom site, the Dhivehi Observer is what anyone wanting to know the
or imprisoned. The main opposition party, the Maldivian Democratic truth about the Maldives should read as a matter of urgency, written as
Party, was founded in Sri Lanka in 2003 and is most likely to succeed it is by anonymous sources throughout the country. Other great Internet
the Gayoom regime should free and fair elections be held and the sites include the UK-based Minivan News (www.minivannews.com), which is also
results honoured. a radio station serving the Maldives when it’s not jammed.
In March 2006 President Gayoom launched his ‘road map’ for democ-
racy, a hugely positive step that has nonetheless been greeted with great
suspicion by reformists, coming as it does from the iron-fisted dictator ALL-PURPOSE, ALL-MALDIVIAN DHONI
himself. The road map foresees fully free presidential elections in mid- The truck and bus of the Maldives is the sturdy dhoni, a vessel so ubiquitous that the word
2008; although it’s very possible pressure on the government will force dhoni will soon become part of your vocabulary. Built in numerous shapes and sizes, the dhoni
them before that date. As they say, we’ll believe it when it happens. has been adapted for use as an ocean freighter, inter-atoll cruiser, local ferry, family fishing boat,
excursion boat, dive boat, live-aboard yacht, delivery truck and mini fuel tanker. The traditional
POPULATION dhoni is thought to derive from the Arab dhow, but the design has been used and refined for
Roughly a quarter of the Maldives’ estimated 359,000 population live on so long in the Maldives that it is truly a local product.
the tiny capital island of Male’, where some 80,000 people are packed Traditionally, dhonis have a tall, curved prow that stands up like a scimitar cutting through the
into a rectangle of land just a couple of kilometres across. The rest of sea breezes. Most Maldivians say this distinctive prow is purely decorative, but in shallow water a
the population is spread out on the atolls – there are hardly any other man will stand at the front, spotting the reefs and channels, signalling to the skipper and holding
towns in the whole country. The second city is Hithadhoo on Addu the prow for balance. It can interfere with boarding or loading, so it’s often dispensed with on
Atoll, with a population of 13,000 and beyond that very few settlements modern utility craft, or there is the removable prow-piece that slots into the front of the boat
Keep informed about
with over 5,000 inhabitants. The annual growth rate is estimated at 2.8%, to look good, but lifts out of the way for loading. If you want to stand at the front of a dhoni,
the developments of
meaning the Maldives is a young country with a median age of 18 years. be aware that a removable prow-piece can be a slightly wobbly balancing post!
Hulhumale’ island, the
With no permanent migration, the Maldives is almost entirely ethnically The flat stern is purely functional – it’s where the skipper stands and steers, casually holding
reclaimed land that is
homogenous. the tiller with his foot or between his legs. The stern platform is also used for fishing, and for
to provide the future
The most recent census, in 2000, put the population at 270,101, with one other thing – when a small dhoni makes a long trip, the ‘head’ is at the back. If nature calls,
base for Male’ and the
74,000 in Male’, however, the 2006 estimated population was 359,000, a go right to the stern of the boat, face forward or backwards as your need and gender dictate,
government in the wake
big increase. and rely on the skipper, passengers and crew to keep facing the front.
of rising sea levels, at
It is thought that the original settlers of the Maldives were Dravidian The details on a dhoni are a mix of modern and traditional. The rudder is attached with neat
www.hdc.com.mv.
and Sinhalese people who came from south India and Sri Lanka. There rope lashing, but nowadays the rope is always plastic, not coir (coconut fibre). The dhoni design
has also been a great deal of intermarriage and mixing with people from required very little adaptation to take a diesel engine, and a motorised (ingeenu) dhoni has the
the Middle East and Africa. same shallow draft as a sail-powered (riyalu) dhoni. The propeller is protected so it won’t snag
on mooring lines or get damaged on a shallow reef. Despite modern materials (cotton caulking
MEDIA instead of coir; red oxide paint as well as shark oil), a modern dhoni will still leak, just like a
Nearly all print and TV media within the Maldives is strictly controlled, traditional one, so there is a bilge pump just in front of the skipper – it’s a simple but effective
ensuring a pliant and largely ignored fourth estate, for the most part. gadget made from plastic plumbing pipes.
However, there are some inspiring exceptions, mainly as a result of pres- Most inhabited islands have a dhoni or two under construction or repair and you may see
sure on the Gayoom government after the prodemocracy protests in 2003 them on an excursion from a resort. The best dhoni builders are said to come from Raa Atoll and
and 2004. Most notable is Minivan Daily, a Divehi newspaper that was teams of them can be contracted to come to an island to make a new boat. Twelve workers, six
granted a licence in 2005 and is an offshoot of the foreign-based radio on each side of the boat, can make a 14m hull in about 45 days, if their hosts keep them well fed.
station and Internet site of the same name, which makes an interesting The keel is made from imported hardwood, while the hull planks are traditionally from coconut
case-in-point for how things work in the Maldives. Since being granted trees. A lot of the work is now done with power tools, but no plans are used.
a licence as a sop to the international community, Minivan (meaning
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RELIGION The fourth pillar is the fast during the day for the month of Ramazan,
Islam is the religion of the Maldives, and officially there are no other the ninth month of the Islamic calendar.
religious groups present. All Maldivians are Sunni Muslims. No other The fifth pillar is the hajj (pilgrimage) to Mecca, the holiest place in
religions or sects are permitted. Islam. It is the duty of every able Muslim to make the hajj at least once
The Maldives observes a liberal form of Islam, like that practised in in their life.
India and Indonesia. Maldivian women do not observe purdah, though
many wear a headscarf. Children are taught the Arabic alphabet and learn Prayer Times
The mother-goddess cult
to read and recite the Quran. The initial prayer session is in the first hour before sunrise, the second
Officially only Muslims of pre-Muslim Maldivian
Most mosques are of simple, unadorned design, but some of the older around noon, the third in midafternoon around 3.30pm, the fourth at
may become citizens tradition has survived
mosques have intricate woodcarvings inside and elaborate carved grave- sunset and the final session in the early evening.
of the Maldives. It is centuries of Islam and
stones outside. The Islamic Centre (p93) in Male’ is especially imposing, The call to prayer is delivered by the mudhim (muezzin). In former
possible for foreigners to remains a key belief of
with soaring ceilings and big carved wood panels and screens. days, he climbed to the top of the minaret and shouted it out. Now the
convert and later become islanders.
call is relayed by loudspeakers on the minaret and the mudhim even
Maldivian nationals,
although this
The Prophet Mohammed appears on TV. All TV stations cut out at prayer time, although only
Mohammed was born in Mecca (now in Saudi Arabia) in AD 570 and had MTV (the national channel) cuts out for the entire duration – satellite
is extremely rare.
his first revelation from Allah in 610. He began to preach against idolatry channels just have their broadcasts interrupted to remind Muslims to
and proved to be a powerful and persuasive speaker. His teachings appealed go to the mosque.
to the poorer levels of society and angered the wealthy merchant class. Shops and offices close for 15 minutes after each call. Some people
In 622 Mohammed and his followers were forced to migrate to Me- go to the mosque, some kneel where they are and others do not visibly
dina, 300km to the north. This migration, known as the Hejira, marks participate. Mosques are busiest for the sunset prayers and at noon on
the start of the Islamic Calendar: AD 622 became year 1 AH. By AD 630 Fridays.
Mohammed had gained enough followers to return and take Mecca.
Within two decades of Mohammed’s death, most of Arabia had con- Ramadan
verted to Islam. The Prophet’s followers spread the word, and the influ- Called Ramazan in the Maldives, this is the month of fasting, which
ence of the Islamic state soon extended from the Atlantic to the Indian begins at the time of a particular new moon and ends with the sighting
Ocean, south into Africa and east to the Pacific. of the next new moon. The Ramazan month gets a little earlier every
year because it is based on a lunar calendar of twelve 28-day months
The Five Pillars of Islam (see p176).
Islam is the Arabic word for submission and underlies the duty of all During Ramazan Muslims should not eat, drink, smoke or have sex
Muslims to submit themselves to Allah. between sunrise and sunset. Exceptions to the eating and drinking rule
Shahada, the profession of faith that ‘there is no God but Allah and are granted to young children, pregnant or menstruating women, and
Mohammed is his prophet’, is the first of the Five Pillars of Islam: the those who are travelling. It can be a difficult time for travel outside the re-
tenets guiding Muslims in their daily life. sorts, as teashops and cafés are closed during the day, offices have shorter
The second pillar, salath, is the call to prayer, and Islam decrees that hours and people may be preoccupied with religious observances or the
Muslims must face Mecca and pray five times each day. In the Maldives, rigours of fasting. Visitors should avoid eating, drinking or smoking in
salath is also called namadh. public, or in the presence of those who are fasting. After a week or so, The Giravaaran people,
The third pillar is zakat, the act of giving alms to the needy. Some most Muslims adjust to the Ramazan routine and many say they enjoy who most believe were
Islamic countries have turned this into an obligatory land tax that goes it. There are feasts and parties long into the night, big breakfasts before the first to settle in the
to help the poor. dawn and long rests in the afternoon. Kuda Eid, the end of Ramazan, is Maldives, remain ethnic-
a major celebration. ally distinct from the rest
of the population. How-
IDOLATRY Local Beliefs ever, they have left their
Most countries prohibit the importation of things like narcotics and firearms, and most travellers On the islands, people still fear jinnis, the evil spirits that come from the native Giravaaru and now
understand such restrictions, but when you’re forbidden to bring ‘idols of worship’ into the Mal- sea, land and sky. They are blamed for everything that can’t be explained live in Male’ since their
dives, what exactly does that mean? The Maldives is an Islamic nation, and it is sensitive about by religion or education. number has decreased so
objects which may offend Muslim sensibilities. A small crucifix, worn as jewellery, is unlikely to To combat jinnis there are fandhita, which are the spells and potions dramatically. Their former
be a problem, and many tourists arrive wearing one. A large crucifix with an obvious Christ figure provided by a local hakeem (medicine man), who is often called upon home is now a resort.
nailed to it may well be prohibited. The same is true of images of Buddha – a small decorative when illness strikes, if a woman fails to conceive, or if the fishing catch
one is probably OK, but a large and ostentatious one may not be. is poor.
Maldivian authorities are concerned about evangelists and the things they might use to spread The hakeem might cast a curing spell by writing phrases from the
their beliefs. Inspectors would not really be looking for a Bible in someone’s baggage, but if Quran on strips of paper and sticking or tying them to the patient or
they found two or more Bibles they would almost certainly not allow them to be imported. It writing the sayings in ink on a plate, filling the plate with water to dis-
would be unwise to test the limits of idolatrous imports – like customs people everywhere, the solve the ink, and making the patient drink the potion. Other concoc-
Maldivian authorities take themselves very seriously. tions include isitri, a love potion used in matchmaking, and its antidote
varitoli, which is used to break up marriages.
32 T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 33

SPORT west side of Male’, and a new facility just east of the New Harbour, used
Soccer is the most popular sport and is played all year round. On most for basketball (men and women), netball, volleyball and badminton. The word ‘atoll’ in English
islands, the late-afternoon match among the young men is a daily ritual. Traditional games include bai bala, where one team attempts to tag is generally accepted to
There’s a league competition in Male’, played between club teams with members of the other team inside a circle, and a tug-of-war, known as come from the Divehi
names such as Valencia and Victory, and annual tournaments against wadhemun. Bashi is a girls’ game, played on something like a tennis word atolu, the only
teams from neighbouring countries. Matches are also held at the National court, where a girl stands facing away from the net and serves a tennis known example of a
Stadium (p102) in Male’. ball backwards, over her head. There is a team of girls on the other side Maldivian word being
Cricket is played in Male’ for a few months, beginning in March. The who then try to catch it. used in English.
president is a keen cricket fan and played for his school in Sri Lanka. Vol- Thin mugoali (meaning ‘three circles’) is a game similar to baseball
leyball is played indoors, on the beach and in the waterfront parks. The and has been played in the atolls for more than 400 years. The mugoali
two venues for indoor sport are the Centre for Social Education, on the (bases) are made by rotating on one foot in the sand through 360 degrees,

WOMEN IN SOCIETY Aishath Velezinee

In the 14th century, long before the call for equality took momentum, the Maldives were ruled In an effort to strengthen family and bring down the high divorce rate (which was once the
by women. Three queens reigned; one, Sultana Khadija, held the throne for 33 years from 1347 highest in the world), the first-ever codified Family Law came into force on 1 July 2001, raising
to 1379. The shift from monarchy to a constitutional republic barred women from the post of the minimum age of marriage to 18 and making unilateral divorce illegal. Prenuptial contracts
President, and this fundamental clause is retained in the 1997 Constitution. registered at the court can strengthen a woman’s position within the marriage as she can stipulate
Traditional lifestyle, especially in the islands away from the capital, dictated gender-specific her rights. Where once a man could divorce his wife merely by telling her that she was divorced,
roles for women and men. Women tended to their children and the household duties during now both partners must go through the court to initiate divorce, and it is permitted only when
the day, and cooked fish in the evenings. Men spent the day fishing and then rested in the all reconciliation attempts fail. While the divorce rate has gone down, questions remain as to
evenings. Modernisation and development changed the traditional way of life and conferred whether fewer divorces mean a better life for women. Polygamy is legal, and men can have up
a double burden on many women – income generation plus domestic responsibilities. More to four wives at a time, although it is not common practice to have more than one wife.
opportunities and better education mean that more women are ready to join the workforce Traditionally, a woman could choose a suitor and name a bride-price (rhan). The bride-price is
or take up income-generating activities at home. This has become a necessity rather than a paid by the husband to the wife, at the time of marriage or in instalments as mutually agreed,
choice for most women living in Male’, as rising expenses and changing lifestyles demand a but must be paid in full if there’s a divorce. Young women today quote higher bride-prices,
dual income to meet basic family expenses. reflecting higher expectations, and perhaps a scepticism about the fairytale happy-ever-after
In Male’ women work in all sectors, but mainly in teaching, nursing or administrative marriage. The wedding itself is a low-key affair, but is often followed by a large banquet for all
or secretarial positions. The government, which is the major employer of women, employs family and friends, who can easily number in the hundreds.
fewer than 5% women at policy level. Less stereotypical jobs such as the police force Women in the Maldives can, and do, own land and property but, as in the rest of the world,
also recruit women and offer equal opportunities. With no childcare facilities available, women have a fraction of the property that men do. While inheritance generally follows Islamic
and little help from husbands on the domestic side, working mothers depend heavily on Sharia’a law in the Maldives, land is divided according to civil law, whereby a daughter and son
the efforts of other women in the extended family – grandmothers, aunts, sisters etc. inherit equal shares of land.
While the movement of women from domestic roles to paid employment has been rapid, There is little overt discrimination between the sexes. Though it’s a fully Muslim society, women
there is very little progress in getting men to pour their own water, let alone share in and men mingle freely and women enjoy personal liberty not experienced by women in most
domestic work. Muslim societies. However, Islam is used as a tool by some patriarchs to counter gender equal-
On the outer islands, with little opportunity for formal employment, women tend to be ity, even as they proclaim that Islam grants equality to women and men. Local discourse tends
self- employed, but with little financial gain. Markets are limited by geography, demography to say that the factors limiting gender equality are cultural rather than Islamic, and therefore it
and the lack of regular and reliable interisland transport. Women on islands close to the is possible to change them.
tourism zones grow fruits and vegetables for sale to resorts. They also weave coconut-leaf Movement of women is not officially restricted, but women’s mobility is limited by factors
matting (cadjan) and make rope and other products from coir. On remoter islands women such as domestic responsibilities and societal attitudes as to what is a woman’s place. Home is
make dried fish, a product that can withstand the long boat journey to the market. At least where ‘good girls’ are. Although physical assaults against women are very unusual, women on
a few women on each island are experts at sewing and most women do home garden- streets and other public spaces can be harassed.
ing for consumption. Some island girls get an education and train as teachers and health Most women in the Maldives go bareheaded though many are adopting a headscarf, a sign of
workers, but most prefer to stay on Male’ where there are wider career choices, rather than growing commitment to Islam. The government has banned face coverings to limit the appear-
return home. Recent appointments of a few women to the posts of atolu verin (atoll chief ) ance of radical religious ideas. Gyms and fitness centres attract Maldivian women, as do hair and
and kateeb (island chief ), till now the realm of men alone, opens new opportunities for beauty salons. Formal functions require women to wear one of the officially sanctioned ‘national
educated women. dresses’, which includes the traditional libaas (dress) and dhiguhedhun (traditional full-length dress
Marriage is seen as a must for all Maldivian women, and less than 1% of those over 30 have with long sleeves and a wide collar) as well as a Malay-style skirt and blouse with libaas-style
never married. Marriage and divorce have always been casual, giving a woman no security within neck embroidery. For everyday wear, young women dress in T-shirts, tank tops, flimsy blouses,
a marriage. Until recently, she could be divorced on the whim of her husband, without reason fashionable jeans, pants and short skirts. The more self-conscious choose Indian-style shalwar
or compensation. Divorce carries no stigma, and early marriage, divorce and serial marriages kameez (loose blouses and pants). Older women wear the traditional dhiguhedhun and libaas.
are the norm. A woman retains her own name after marriage – this is sensible as she could be
Mrs X, Mrs Y and Mrs Z in the space of a single year. Aishath Velezinee is a Maldivian writer, researcher and women’s rights advocate
 34 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 35

leaving a circle behind. You’ll sometimes see bashi in Male’ parks or on At intersections, the coral walls have rounded corners, which consid-
village islands in the late afternoon, but traditional games are becoming erably soften the streetscape. These corners are seemingly designed to
less popular as young people are opting for international sports. facilitate turning vehicles, but they are like this in small island villages
that never see a vehicle. The same style is used in Male’, where it does
ARTS make turning easier for cars and trucks. On the upper floors of a modern
Though performances of traditional music and dance are not everyday building, the rounded corners are more for appearance than practicality,
events, contemporary Divehi culture is strong and adaptive, despite and seem to be a deliberate adaptation of a traditional feature.
Rates of thalassaemia, a
foreign influences, which range from martial arts and Hindi movies to The architecture of resorts is eclectic, imitative of anything from a
hereditary blood condi-
Eminem and Muslim fundamentalism. Balinese bale to an African rondavel or an American motel. The most
tion that makes regular
Western and Indian fashions, pop music and videos are highly vis- identifiably Maldivian feature is the open-air bathroom, a delightful
blood transfusions neces-
ible, but on public occasions and festivals the celebrations always have a feature popular with guests.
sary, is extremely high
Maldivian style. Three daily newspapers and several magazines are pub-
in the Maldives, with
lished in the unique national language and rock bands sing Divehi lyrics. Visual Arts
18% of the population
It’s remarkable that such a tiny population maintains such a distinctive There is no historical tradition of painting in the Maldives, but demand
carrying the condition in Coral stone was the main
culture. for local art (however fabricated) from the tourist industry has created a
some form. building material until
supply in the ultra-savvy Maldivian market, with more than a few locals
Song & Dance selling paintings to visitors or creating beach scenes for hotel rooms. relatively recently, and
Bodu beru means ‘big drum’ and gives its name to the best-known form of Some islands were once famous for wood and stone carving – elaborate you can still see plenty of
traditional music and dance. It is what tourist resorts put on for a local cul- calligraphy and the intricate intertwining patterns are a feature of many mosques and houses built
ture night, and it can be quite sophisticated and compelling. Dancers begin old mosques and gravestones. A little of this woodcarving is still done, with the unmistakable
with a slow, nonchalant swaying and swinging of the arms, and become mainly to decorate mosques. The façade of the new Majlis building in grey material. It’s often
more animated as the tempo increases, finishing in a rhythmic frenzy. In Male’ is decorated with intertwined carvings. engraved with beautiful
some versions the dancers enter a trance-like state. There are four to six designs and is a highlight
drummers in an ensemble and the sound has strong African influences. Crafts of many villages.
This is also the entertainment at private parties, where a few guys will MATS
play the drums and everyone else dances – more and more frenetically Natural-fibre mats are woven on many islands, but the most famous are
as the night goes on. the ones known as tundu kunaa, made on the island of Gadhdhoo in Gaaf
Local rock bands often perform at resorts, where they do credible Dhaal Atoll. This may have been an endangered art form, but renewed
covers of old favourites. They may incorporate elements of bodu beru interest caused by the growing tourist industry has arguably saved it
in their music, with lots of percussion and extended drum solos when from disappearing. A Danish researcher in the 1970s documented the
they’re in front of a local audience. Two popular bands are Mezzo and weaving techniques and the plants used for fibre and dyes, and noted that
Zero Degree Attol – CDs from these, and quite a few other bands, are a number of traditional designs had not been woven for 20 years. Col-
sold in Male’ music shops. lecting the materials and weaving a mat can take weeks, and the money
that can be made selling the work is not much by modern Maldivian
Literature standards. Some fine examples now decorate the reception areas of tour-
Despite the unique Maldivian script that dates from the 1600s, most Mal- ist resorts, and there’s a growing appreciation of the work among local
divian myths and stories are from an oral tradition and have only recently people and foreign collectors.
appeared in print. Many are stories of witchcraft and sorcery, while others
are cautionary tales about the evils of vanity, lust and greed, and the sticky LACQUER WORK
To support the Society of fates of those who transgressed. Some are decidedly weird and depress- Traditionally, lacquer work (laajehun) was for containers, bowls and
Health Education (SHE), ing, and don’t make good bedtime reading for young children. Novelty trays used for gifts to the sultan – some fine examples can be seen in
which works with victims Press has published a small book called Mysticism in the Maldives, which the National Museum (p93) in Male’. Different wood is used to make
of thalassaemia, visit is still available. The Hammond Innes thriller The Strode Venturer is boxes, bowls, vases and other turned objects. Traditionally the lathe is
www.she.org.mv. about the only well-known novel that is partly set in the Maldives. hand-powered by a cord pulled round a spindle. Several layers of lacquer

Architecture
A traditional Maldivian village is notable for its neat and orderly layout, SITTING IN THE MALDIVES
with wide streets in a regular, rectangular grid. Houses are made of The Maldives has two unique pieces of furniture. One is the undholi, a wooden platform or a
concrete blocks or coral stone joined with mortar, and the walls line the netting seat that’s hung from a tree or triangular frame. Sometimes called a bed-boat, the undholi
sides of the streets. Many houses will have a shaded courtyard in front, is a sofa, hammock and fan combination – swinging gently creates a cooling movement of air
enclosed by a chest-high wall fronting the street. This courtyard is an across the indolent occupant.
outdoor room, with joli and undholi seats (see the boxed text, opposite), The joli is a static version – a net seat slung on a rectangular frame, usually made in sociable
where families sit in the heat of the day or the cool of the evening. A sets of three or four. They were once made of coir rope and wooden sticks, but steel pipes and
more private courtyard behind, the gifili has a well and serves as an plastic mesh are now almost universal – it’s like sitting in a string shopping bag, but cool.
open-air bathroom.
36 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com

are applied in different colours. They then harden, and the design is
incised with sharp tools, exposing the bright colours of the underlying
layers. Designs are usually floral motifs in yellow with red trim on a
black background (most likely based on designs of Chinese ceramics).
Production of lacquer work is a viable cottage industry in Baa Atoll,
particularly on the islands of Eydafushi and Thuladhoo.

JEWELLERY
Ribudhoo Island in Dhaalu (South Nilandhoo Atoll) is famous for mak-
ing gold jewellery, and Huludeli, in the same atoll, for silver jewellery.
According to local belief, a royal jeweller brought the goldsmithing
skills to the island centuries ago, having been banished to Ribudhoo
by a sultan. It’s also said that the islanders plundered a shipwreck in
the 1700s, and reworked the gold jewellery they found to disguise its
origins.
 37

Environment
‘Our fate tomorrow,’ Maldivian President Maumoon Abdul Gayoom has
repeatedly warned the world, ‘will be your fate the day after.’ Hardly be-
striding the international stage like a Colossus, the diminutive Maldivian
leader has nevertheless done much to promote awareness of global warm-
ing and rising sea levels, the net results of which are likely to submerge
this low-lying island nation almost completely by the end of the century.
The tsunami, while still
Kofi Annan has called him ‘the godfather of environmental awareness’
a national disaster, was
and the country’s record at speaking up about and bringing attention to
actually far less damag-
the grave realities of global warming make it one of the most ecologically
ing to the Maldives
aware in the world.
than it could have been.
Along with Tuvalu, Bangladesh and parts of Holland, the Maldives has
Scientists suggest the
the misfortune to be one of the lowest lying countries in the world at a time
islands were saved by the
in history when sea levels are rising. Its highest natural point – 2m – is the
deep channels running
lowest in any country in the world. Realising that the political will to do
between the atolls, which
anything about the upcoming disaster is extremely weak throughout both
absorbed much of the
the developed and developing worlds, the Maldives are at least making a
power of the waves.
contingency plan by constructing an island near to Male’ that’s 2m above
sea level, and will eventually be home to some 150,000 people, or about
a half of the country’s population. Several thousand people have already
moved there in the first phase of development, and it’s a compelling, if
rather bleak look at the country’s future to spend a few hours wandering
around on a trip from Male’.

THE LAND
Where is the Maldives? That’s almost always the first question people
ask when you tell them about going on holiday here. Confused with
Mauritius, Martinique, Montserrat or Madagascar (there are indeed a
strangely large number of tropical beach destinations beginning with M),
or simply an unknown quantity, the Maldives is effectively a tiny country,
whose land totals far less in area than the tiny European principality of
Andorra, despite an overall area of 90,000 sq km, 99.9% of which is the
Indian Ocean.
This 300 sq km of land is split up into an almost incalculable number
of islands, spread out ‘like a string of pearls’ (copyright all guidebooks)
due south of India and west of Sri Lanka, deep in the Indian Ocean. The
number of islands is incalculable simply because the islands, or what we

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN THE MALDIVES

„ Drink water desalinated at your resort rather than imported mineral water.
„ Take all batteries and plastic home with you for disposal.
„ Offset your air travel by using companies such as www.climatecare.org.
„ Minimise the use of air conditioning.
„ Keep the use of running water in your room to a minimum – water is still expensive to
desalinate, which uses fossil fuel to do so.
„ When diving or snorkelling do not touch, feed or otherwise interfere with the fish and coral.
„ Ask for your towels not to be rewashed every day.
„ Don’t purchase turtle-shell products.
 38 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 39

define as islands, are so fluid. Some ‘islands’ exist at low tide and disap- Local land birds include crows, the white-breasted water hen and the In-
pear at high tide, others are just sandbanks with no vegetation, potentially dian mynah. The rose-ringed parakeet is introduced. There are migratory
washed away by the next big storm. birds, such as harriers and falcons, but waders like plover, snipe, curlew and
Officially, it’s a matter of vegetation – an island means a vegetated land sandpiper are more common. Thirteen species of heron can be seen in the
area, but even this is not definitive. Some sandbanks sprout a small patch shallows and there are terns, seagulls and two species of noddy. Maldivian turtles are
of scrub while others feature a single coconut palm, like the desert island protected, but they are
of the comic-strip castaway. ENDANGERED SPECIES still caught illegally.
The geological formation of the Maldives is fascinating and unique. Most turtle species are endangered worldwide. Four species are known The charity Ecocare
The country is perched on the top of the enormous Laccadives–Chagos to nest in the Maldives: green, olive ridley, hawksbill and loggerhead. Maldives has almost
ridge, which cuts a swathe across the Indian Ocean from India to Mada- Leatherback turtles visit Maldivian waters, but are not known to nest. single-handedly raised
gascar. The ridge, a meeting point of two giant tectonic plates, is where Turtle numbers have declined in the Maldives, as elsewhere, but they can awareness of the turtles’
Bodu raalhu (big wave) basalt magma spews up through the earth’s crust, creating new rock. still be seen by divers at many sites. The catching of turtles and the sale plight.
is a relatively regular These magma eruptions created the Deccan Plateau, on which the Mal- or export of turtle-shell products is now totally prohibited.
event in the Maldives, dives sit. Originally the magma production created huge volcanoes that Turtles are migratory and the population can be depleted by events
when the sea sweeps towered above the sea. While these have subsequently sunk back into the many miles from their home beach, such as accidental capture in fish-
over the islands, causing sea as the ocean floor settled, the coral formations that grew up around ing nets, depletion of sea-grass areas and toxic pollutants. Widespread
damage and sometimes these vast volcanoes became the Maldives, and this explains their idi- collection of eggs and the loss of nesting sites are problems that need
loss of life. osyncratic formation into vast round atolls. to be addressed. The consequences do not show up in the adult turtle
Today then, the national territory officially comprises 1190 coral islands population for 10 to 20 years.
and innumerable reefs forming 26 atolls that are the natural geographic Turtle eggs are a traditional food and used in velaa folhi, a special
regions of the country – the English word ‘atoll’ actually derives from the Maldivian dish. Development of resorts has reduced the availability of
Maldivian word atolu. The natural atolls are today divided up into 21 ad-
ministrative districts, whose easy-to-pronounce code names are the ones
we use to divide up the country by region in this book (see opposite). THOSE UNPRONOUNCEABLE ATOLLS
Confusingly enough, the 26 atolls of the Maldives are divided for all official purposes into 21
WILDLIFE administrative districts, which are named by the letters of the Thaana alphabet and as such are
The Maldives is notable for a concentration of several species that you’ll a lot easier to pronounce. Would you rather talk about South Miladhunmadulu Atoll or Noonu?
see a lot of on the land and in the sky: compared to neighbouring coun- Thought so. However, it’s not that simple, as the traditional atoll names are still universally used
tries, there’s not a lot of variety. However, under water the variety is for North and South Male’ Atolls, North and South Ari Atoll and Addu Atoll in the far south, so
astonishing – hence the massive diving market here. The best thing about we also use these instead of the more obscure names Kaafu, Alif and Seenu. The following table
wildlife in the Maldives is that it’s universally safe. You don’t even get gives both traditional and administrative names for most parts of the country; those marked with
mosquitoes for the most part. Who said this wasn’t paradise? an asterisk are the ones used in this book.

Animals Administrative name Atoll name

One of the most unforgettable sights in the Maldives is giant fruit bats fly-
ing over the islands to roost in trees at dusk. Their size and numbers can Haa Alif* North Thiladhunmathee Atoll
make it quite a spectacle. Colourful lizards and geckos are very common Haa Dhaal* South Thiladhunmathee Atoll & Maamakunudhoo Atoll
and there is the occasional rat, usually dismissed as a ‘palm squirrel’ or a Shaviyani* North Miladhunmadulu Atoll
‘Maldivian hamster’ by resort staff keen to avoid cries of vermin. Noonu* South Miladhunmadulu Atoll
The mosquito population varies from island to island but it’s generally Raa* North Maalhosmadulu Atoll
not a problem. There are ants, centipedes, scorpions and cockroaches, Baa* South Maalhosmadulu Atoll
but they’re not problematic at all. Lhaviyani* Faadhippolhu Atoll
Kaafu Male’ Atoll*
Alif Ari Atoll*
AN ALTERNATIVE GEOGRAPHY Vaavu* Felidhe Atoll
While the Maldives has appeared in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s flattest country, Meemu* Mulaku Atoll
with no natural land higher than 2.3m above sea level, it’s one of the most mountainous countries Faafu* North Nilandhe Atoll
in the world. Its people live on peaks above a plateau that extends 2000km from the Lakshadweep Dhaalu* South Nilandhe Atoll
Islands near India to the Chagos Islands, well south of the equator. The plateau is over 5000m Thaa* Kolhumadulu Atoll
high and rises steeply between the Arabian Basin in the northwest and the Cocos–Keeling Basin Laamu* Hadhdunmathee Atoll
in the southeast. Mountain ranges rise above the plateau, and the upper slopes and valleys are Gaaf Alif* North Huvadhoo Atoll
incredibly fertile, beautiful and rich with plant and animal life. The entire plateau is submerged Gaaf Dhaal* South Huvadhoo Atoll
beneath the Indian Ocean and only scattered, flat-topped peaks are visible at the surface. These Gnaviyani* Foammulah Atoll
peaks are capped not with snow, but with coconut palms. Seenu Addu Atoll*
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nesting sites. Artificial lights confuse hatchling turtles, which are instinc- HARD CORALS
tively guided into the water by the position of the moon. Beach chairs These Acropora species take many forms. One of the most common and
and boats can also interfere with egg laying and with hatchlings. Some easiest to recognise is the staghorn coral, which grows by budding off new
attempts are being made to artificially improve the survival chances of branches from the tips. Brain corals are huge and round with a surface
hatchlings by protecting them in hatching ponds. looking very much like a human brain. They grow by adding new base
levels of skeletal matter then expanding outwards. Flat or sheet corals,
Plants like plate coral or table coral, expand at their outer edges. Some corals
Most islands have poor, sandy soil and vegetation ranges from thick to take different shapes depending on their immediate environment.
sparse to none at all. The vegetated islands have mangroves, breadfruit
Maldives: Un mur trees, banyans, bamboo, pandanus, banana, heliotrope, caltrop, hibiscus, SOFT CORALS
contre l’océan is a French tropical vines and numerous coconut palms. Larger, wetter islands have These are made up of individual polyps, but do not form a hard limestone
documentary by Patrick small areas of rainforest. skeleton. Lacking the skeleton that protects hard coral, it would seem likely
Fléouter. Investigating Sweet potatoes, yams, taro, millet and watermelon are grown. The that soft coral would fall prey to fish, but they seem to remain relatively
the construction of most fertile island is Foammulah in the extreme south, which supports immune either due to toxic substances in their tissues or to the presence of
massive sea defences a wider variety of crops, including mangoes and pineapples. Lemons and
around Male’, it raises limes once grew all over the islands, but a fungal disease killed them off,
and virtually all citrus fruit is now imported. RISE & RISE OF THE ATOLLS
questions about what will
happen to the rest of the A coral reef or garden is not, as many people believe, formed of multicoloured marine plants. It
country’s population as Marine Life is a living colony of coral polyps – tiny, tentacled creatures that feed on plankton. Coral polyps
the waters rise. Seaweeds and hard coralline algae grow on the reefs, but are continuously are invertebrates with sac-like bodies and calcareous or horny skeletons. After extracting calcium
eaten by various herbivores. As well as the many types of coral, there are deposits from the water around them, the polyps excrete tiny, cup-shaped, limestone skeletons.
various shells, starfish, crustaceans and worms inhabiting the reef. There These little guys can make mountains.
are more than 700 species of fish in the Indian Ocean, and these can be A coral reef is the rock-like aggregation of millions of these polyp skeletons. Only the outer
divided into two types: reef fish, which live inside the atoll lagoons, on layer of coral is alive. As polyps reproduce and die, the new polyps attach themselves in successive
and around coral-reef structures; and pelagics, which live in the open sea, layers to the skeletons already in place. Coral grows best in clear, shallow water, and especially
but may come close to the atolls or into channels for food. These include where waves and currents from the open sea bring extra oxygen and nutrients.
some large animals, such as turtles and cetaceans, which are very popular Charles Darwin put forward the first scientific theory of atoll formation based on observations
with divers. of atolls and islands in the Pacific. He envisaged a process where coral builds up around the
shores of a volcanic island to produce a fringing reef. Then the island sinks slowly into the sea
CORAL while the coral grows upwards at about the same rate. This forms a barrier reef, separated from
These are coelenterates, a class of animal that also includes sea anemo- the shore of the sinking island by a ring-shaped lagoon. By the time the island is completely
nes and jellyfish. A coral growth is made up of individual polyps – tiny submerged, the coral growth has become the base for an atoll, circling the place where the
tube-like fleshy cylinders, which look very much like anemones. The top volcanic peak used to be.
of the cylinder is open and ringed by waving tentacles (nematocysts), This theory doesn’t quite fit the Maldives though. Unlike the isolated Pacific atolls, Maldiv-
which sting and draw any passing prey inside. Coral polyps secrete a ian atolls all sit on top of the same long, underwater plateau, around 300m to 500m under
calcium-carbonate deposit around their base, and this cup-shaped skel- the surface of the sea. This plateau is a layer of accumulated coral-stone over 2000m thick.
etal structure is what forms a coral reef – new coral grows on old dead Under this is the ‘volcanic basement’, a 2000km-long ridge of basalt that was formed over 50
coral and the reef gradually builds up. million years ago.
Most reef building is done by hermatypic corals, whose outer tissues The build-up of coral over this ridge is as much to do with sea-level changes as it is with the
are infused with zooxanthellae algae, which photosynthesise to make plateau subsiding. When sea levels rise the coral grows upwards to stay near the sea surface, as
food from carbon dioxide and sunlight. The zooxanthellae is the main in the Darwin model, but there were at least two periods when the sea level actually dropped
food source for the coral, while the coral surface provides a safe home significantly – by as much as 120m. At these times much of the accumulated coral plateau would
for the zooxanthellae – they live in a symbiotic relationship, each de- have been exposed, subjected to weathering, and ‘karstified’ – eroded into steep-sided, flat-topped
pendent on the other. The zooxanthellae give coral its colour, so when columns. When sea levels rose again, new coral grew on the tops of the karst mountains and
a piece of coral is removed from the water, the zooxanthellae soon die formed the bases of the individual Maldivian atolls.
and the coral becomes white. If the water temperature rises, the coral Coral grows best on the edges of an atoll, where it is well supplied with nutrients from the
expels the algae, and the coral loses its colour in a process called ‘coral open sea. A fringing reef forms around an enclosed lagoon, growing higher as the sea level rises.
bleaching’. Rubble from broken coral accumulates in the lagoon, so the level of the lagoon floor also rises,
Polyps reproduce by splitting to form a colony of genetically identi- and smaller reefs can rise within it. Sand and debris accumulate on the higher parts of the reef,
cal polyps – each colony starts life as just a single polyp. Although creating sandbars on which vegetation can eventually take root. The classic atoll shape is oval,
each polyp catches and digests its own food, the nutrition then passes with the widest reefs and most of the islands around the outer edges.
between the polyps to the whole colony. Most coral polyps only feed at Test drilling and seismic research has revealed the complex layers of coral growth that underlie
night; during the day they withdraw into their hard limestone skeleton, the Maldives. The evidence shows that coral growth can match the fastest sea-level rises on record,
so it is only after dark that a coral reef can be seen in its full, colour- some 125m in only 10,000 years – about 1.25cm per year. In geological terms, that’s really fast.
ful glory.
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sharp limestone needles. Soft corals can move around and will sometimes WHALES & DOLPHINS
engulf and kill off a hard coral. Attractive varieties include fan corals and Whales dwell in the open sea, and so are not found in the atolls. Species
whips. Soft corals thrive on reef edges washed by strong currents. seen in the Maldives include beaked, blue, Bryde’s dwarf, false killer,
melon-headed, sperm and pilot whales. You’ll need to go on a specialised
REEF FISH whale-watching trip to see them, however (see p53).
Hundreds of fish species can be spotted by anyone with a mask and Dolphins are extremely common throughout the Maldives, and you’re
Maldivian sharks are snorkel. They’re easy to see and enjoy, but people with a naturalist bent very likely to see them, albeit fleetingly. These fun-loving, curious crea-
rapidly decreasing in should buy one of the field guides to reef fish, or check the attractive post- tures often swim alongside speedboats and dhonis, as well as swimming
number, despite high ers, which are often displayed in dive schools. You’re sure to see several off the side of reefs looking for food. Most resorts offer dolphin cruises,
ecological awareness. types of butterflyfish, angelfish, parrotfish and rock cod, unicornfish, which allow you to see large schools up close. Species known to swim
The small but active trumpetfish, bluestripe snapper, Moorish idol and oriental sweetlips. For in Maldivian waters include bottlenose, Fraser’s, Risso’s, spotted, striped
shark-meat trade still more on fish see p72. and spinner dolphins.
claims thousands of
these incredible animals SHARKS STINGRAYS & MANTA RAYS
each year. It’s not a feat to see a shark in the Maldives, even if you don’t get in the Some of the most dramatic creatures in the ocean, rays are cartilaginous
water; juvenile reef sharks love to swim about in the warm water of the fish – like flattened sharks. Ray feeding is a popular activity at many
shallow lagoon right next to the beach and eat fish all day long. They’re resorts and it’s quite something to see these muscular, alienesque crea-
tiny – most never grow beyond 50cm long – but are fully formed sharks, tures jump out of the water and chow down on raw steak. Stingrays
so can scare some people! They don’t bite, although feeding or provoking are sea-bottom feeders, and equipped with crushing teeth to grind the
them still isn’t a good idea. molluscs and crustaceans they sift out of the sand. They are occasion-
Get out into the deeper water and sharks are visible, but you’ll have to ally found in the shallows, often lying motionless on the sandy bottom ‘There are
go looking for them. The white-tip reef shark is a small, nonaggressive, of lagoons. A barbed and poisonous spine on top of the tail can swing
territorial shark, rarely more than 1.5m long and often seen over areas up and forward, and will deliver a very painful injury to anyone who 25 Protected
of coral or off reef edges. Grey reef sharks are also timid, shallow-water stands on one. Marine
dwellers and often grow to over 2m in length. Manta rays are among the largest fish found in the Maldives and a Areas in the
Other species are more open-sea dwellers, but do come into atolls and firm favourite of divers. They tend to swim along near the surface and
especially to channel entrances where food is plentiful. These include pass overhead as a large shadow. They are quite harmless and, in some Maldives,
the strange-looking hammerhead shark and the whale shark, the world’s places, seem quite relaxed about divers approaching them closely. Manta usually pop-
largest fish species, which is a harmless plankton eater. Sharks do not rays are sometimes seen to leap completely out of the water, landing back ular diving
pose any danger to divers in the Maldives – there’s simply too much else with a tremendous splash. The eagle ray is closely related to the manta,
for them to eat. and often seen by divers. sights where
fishing of
NATIONAL PARKS any kind is
CORAL BLEACHING – DEATH ON THE REEF There are 25 Protected Marine Areas in the Maldives, usually popular
In March 1998, the waters of the Maldives experienced a temporary rise in temperature associ- diving sights where fishing of any kind is banned. These are excellent, banned.’
ated with the El Niño effect. For a period of about two weeks, surface-water temperatures were as they have created enclaves of huge marine life that’s guaranteed a safe
above 32°C, resulting in the loss of the symbiotic algae that lives within the coral polyps. The future. While there are no specially designated island reserves in the
loss of the zooxanthellae algae causes the coral to lose its colour (‘coral bleaching’), and if this Maldives, there are a huge number of uninhabited islands and permission
algae does not return, the coral polyps die. Coral bleaching has occurred, with varying degrees from the government is needed to develop or live there. With some of
of severity, in shallow waters throughout the Maldives archipelago. When the coral dies, the the tightest development restrictions in the world, the Maldives future
underlying calcium carbonate is exposed and becomes more brittle, so many of the more delicate as pristine wilderness in many parts is assured.
branch and table structures have been broken up by wave action. Mainly hard corals have been
affected – soft corals and sea fans are less dependent on zooxanthellae algae, are less affected ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
by the sea temperature changes and recover more quickly from damage. As a small island nation in a big ocean, the Maldives had a way of life
Some corals, particularly in deeper water, recovered almost immediately as the symbiotic algae that was ecologically sustainable for centuries, but certainly not self-
returned. In a few places the coral was not damaged at all. In most areas, however, virtually all sufficient. The comparatively small population survived by harvesting
the old hard corals died and it will take years, perhaps decades, for them to recover. Some of the vast resources of the sea and obtaining the other necessities of life
the biggest table corals may have been hundreds of years old. Marine biologists are watching through trade. The impact on the limited resources of their islands was
this recolonisation process with interest (see p72). probably minimal.
The Maldives’ dive industry has adapted to the changed environment, seeking places where Now the Maldives’ interrelationship with the rest of the world is
the regrowth is fastest and where there are lots of attractive soft corals. There’s still a vast number greater than ever, and it has a high rate of growth supported by two
and variety of reef fish to see, and spotting pelagic species, especially mantas and whale sharks, main industries: fishing and tourism. Both industries depend on the
is a major attraction. Some long-time divers have become more interested in the very small preservation of the environment, and there are strict regulations to
marine life, and in macrophotography. ensure sustainability. To a great extent the Maldives avoids environ-
mental problems by importing so many of its needs. It could be asked
44 ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 45

whether this is environmentally friendly or whether it just moves the In the long term it’s simply not an option to protect low-lying islands
environmental problems offshore. with breakwaters, and if the sea continues to rise as predicted then there
Bluepeace Maldives (www.bluepeacemaldives.org) is a fantastic organisation is no long-term future for much of the country. While a wait-and-see
campaigning to save the turtles, rare birds and coral of the Maldives. attitude appears to that adopted by most, there are clear efforts being
made to support human life in the Maldives after the water has risen
Global Warming by 1m – most importantly the land reclamation project that has created
There are no prizes for guessing what the country’s long-term environ- 2m-high Hulhumale’ island next to the airport, and one day will house
mental concern is. With waters rising faster than previously believed, around half the country’s population.
low-lying islands are set to start disappearing in the next few decades. If the day does indeed come when waters engulf the entire coun-
try, there are repeated rumours that Gayoom has struck a deal with
Australia to take the people of the Maldives in return for signing over
WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE Maldivian fishing rights to them. This is denied strenuously by both
Ensuring a supply of fresh water has always been imperative for small island communities. Rain- sides, but may not be that fanciful – somebody, somewhere will have
water quickly soaks into the sandy island soil and usually forms an underground reservoir of to agree to take the 300,000-plus people that global warming will one
fresh water, held in place by a circle of salt water from the surrounding sea. Wells can be dug day leave homeless.
to extract the fresh ground water, but if water is pumped out faster than rainfall replenishes the Check out www
supply, then salty water infiltrates from around the island and the well water becomes brackish. Tsunami
.bluepeacemaldives.org
Decaying organic matter and septic tanks can also contaminate the ground water, giving it an On 26 December 2004 the Indian Ocean tsunami caused devastation
for information on this
unpleasant sulphurous smell. throughout southern Asia. Compared to Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Thai-
excellent Maldivian NGO’s
One way to increase the fresh-water supply is to catch and store rainwater from rooftops. This land, the Maldives escaped relatively lightly, although over 100 people
work protecting the local
wasn’t feasible on islands that had only small buildings with roofs of palm thatch, but economic were killed when the waves hit.
environment.
development and the use of corrugated iron has changed all that. Nearly every inhabited island Despite fearing the worst, divers who took to the water to see the dam-
now has a government-supported primary school, which is often the biggest, newest building age were heartened to discover that relatively little had been done. Many
on the island. The other sizable building is likely to be the mosque, which is a focus of com- corals were destroyed by the power of the tidal wave, but the tsunami’s
munity pride. Along with education and spiritual sustenance, many Maldivians now also get effects have been negligible compared to the 1998 coral bleaching that
their drinking water from the local school or the mosque. occurred here.
Expanding tourist resorts required more water than was available from wells or rooftops and, Beaches on many islands were washed away or at least partially dis-
as resorts grew larger, the tourists’ showers became saltier. Also, the ground water became placed. These were still being restored using sand pumps at the time of
too salty to irrigate the exotic gardens that every tourist expects on a tropical island. The solu- writing, but the chances are that during the lifetime of this book, the
tion was the desalination of sea water using ‘reverse osmosis’ – a combination of membrane Maldives tourism industry will look just as good as it did before the
technology and brute force. tsunami, and perhaps even better.
Now every resort has a desalination plant, with racks of metal cylinders, each containing an
inner cylinder made of a polymer membrane. Sea water is pumped into the inner cylinder at Fisheries
high pressure and the membrane allows pure water to pass through into the outer cylinder from Net fishing and trawling is prohibited in Maldivian waters, which include
which it is piped away. Normally, when a membrane separates fresh water from salt water, both an ‘exclusive economic zone’ extending for 320km beyond the atolls. All
salt and water will pass through the membrane in opposite directions to equalise the saltiness fishing is by pole and line, with over 75% of the catch being skipjack
on either side – this process is called osmosis. Under pressure, the special polymer membrane or yellowfin tuna. The no-nets policy helps to prevent over-fishing and
allows the natural process of osmosis to be reversed. protects other marine species, such as dolphins, from being inadvertently
Small, reliable desalination plants have been a boon for the resorts, providing abundant fresh caught in nets.
water for bathrooms, kitchens, gardens and, increasingly, for swimming pools. Of course it’s expen- The local tuna population appears to be holding up despite increased
sive, as the plants use lots of diesel fuel for their powerful pumps and the polymer membranes catches, and Maldivian fisheries are patrolled to prevent poaching. But
need to be replaced regularly. Many resorts ask their guests to be moderate in their water use, the tuna are migratory, and can be caught without limit in international
while a few are finding ways to recycle bath and laundry water onto garden beds. Most have waters using drift nets and long-line techniques.
dual water supplies, so that brackish ground water is used to flush the toilet while desalinated
sea water is provided in the shower and the hand basin. Tourism
Is desalinated water good enough to drink? If a desalination plant is working properly, it Tourism development is strictly regulated and resorts are established
should produce, in effect, 100% pure distilled water. The island of Thulusdhoo, in North Male’ only on uninhabited islands that the government makes available. Over-
Atoll, has the only factory in the world where Coca-Cola is made out of sea water. In most resorts, whelmingly, the regulations have been effective in minimising environ-
the water from the bathroom tap tastes just fine, but management advises guests not to drink mental costs – the World Tourism Organization has cited the Maldives
it. One story is that the water is too pure and lacks the trace minerals essential for good health. as a model for sustainable tourism development.
Another is that the water is purified in the plant, but in the pipes it can pick up bacteria, which Construction and operation of the resorts does use resources, but
may cause diarrhoea. Usually, the resort and hotel management will suggest that guests buy the vast majority of these are imported. Large amounts of diesel fuel
mineral water from the bar, shop or restaurant, where it will cost between US$2 and US$4 for are used to generate electricity and desalinate water. The demand for
1.5L. This water is bottled in the Maldives using purified, desalinated water. hot running water and air-conditioning has raised the overall energy
cost per guest.
46 ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues www.lonelyplanet.com

Sewage must be effectively treated on the resort island itself – it cannot

be pumped out to sea. Efficient incinerators must be installed to dispose
of garbage that can’t be composted, but many resorts request that visitors
take home plastic bottles, used batteries and other items that may present
a disposal problem.
When the first resorts were developed, jetties and breakwaters were
built and boat channels cut through reefs, without much understanding
of the immediate environmental consequences. In some cases natural
erosion and deposition patterns were disrupted, with unexpected results.
More structures were built to limit the damage and sand was pumped up
to restore the beach. This was expensive and it marred the natural appear-
ance of the island, and now developers are more careful about altering
coasts and reefs. Environmental studies are required before major works
can be undertaken.
 47

Choosing a Resort
Don’t worry about being swayed by the judicious use of Photoshop in
brochures – almost every resort in the Maldives will get you a superb
beach, amazing weather and white sands overlooked by majestic palms.
Indeed some visitors jokingly complain that any photograph they take
just looks like one lifted from a promotional pamphlet, so uniform is
the perfection.
It’s what nestles among the trees beyond the beach that should most
George Corbin is credited
concern you, and we’re not talking about creepy crawlies here. The
with kick-starting the
standard of facilities and variety of accommodation in Maldivian resorts
Maldives tourist industry.
is enormous – from budget and extremely average accommodation to
In 1971 he brought a
the best of everything if you can afford to pay through the nose for it.
small group of Europeans
Therefore your choice of resort is absolutely key to getting the holiday
to the country despite
you want. Take plenty of time and weigh up as many options as possible
there being no hotels.
before settling for the resort or resorts you’ll book into. This chapter
will help you navigate the various factors to take into consideration
when selecting a resort, as well as listing some of our favourites in the
country.

ATMOSPHERE
What is surprising is that every resort has a fairly distinct atmosphere.
Not totally unique in all cases – but it’s surprising how quickly you can
tell if you’re visiting a honeymooners’ paradise, a diving mecca or a fam-
ily bucket-and-spade affair. This is the one thing that’s totally impossible
to judge from a website or brochure, so the most important decision to

FRIENDS OF MALDIVES RESORT BOYCOTT

In 2005 British-based campaign group Friends of Maldives (www.friendsofmaldives.org) unveiled a
carefully targeted boycott of some of the Maldives’ most popular resorts. Outraged at the torture
in Maldivian prisons, the police brutality on the streets and the human rights abuses, the group
unveiled its selective boycott to pressure the regime from within. The boycott targets any resort
owned wholly or in part by a member of the government, the hope being that the loss of revenue
will in turn cause associates of President Gayoom to put pressure on him to end human rights
abuses, hold free and fair elections and rein in the police and National Security Services. Sup-
porters of this boycott include Tourism Concern (www.touristconcern.org.uk), Amnesty International
and Ethical Consumer.
We support this cleverly targeted campaign and suggest you do too; it fully supports tourism
in the Maldives, conscious that it’s the country’s only major industry, but it tells adherents to
avoid about one-fifth of the resorts, which bring ministers and other senior government figures
significant revenue each year. The full list can be found at www.friendsofmaldives.org/fom-resortlist
.htm – we do not publish it here as it could change; resorts often change hands and, also, some
ministers have already responded to the boycott, resigning their positions in government in order
not to be targeted, and thus sending a very clear message to the regime.
Friends of Maldives has been roundly discredited in the Maldives by a smear campaign calling
them both Islamic terrorists and Christian missionaries. We can confirm that this is not the case,
and that the Anglo-Maldivian staff who run the organisation have only the human rights and
general welfare of the Maldivian people at heart. They have set up a separate charity, Maldives
Aid (reachable through the Friends of Maldives website) that sends aid to the poorest regions of
the country. Donations can be made here to projects that will help rural residents rebuild their
lives and invest in their future.
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make before choosing a resort is the type of holiday you want and the considered they can be fabulous experiences, built with sunset watching,
atmosphere most conducive to providing it. Honeymooners who find privacy and sea access direct from the bedroom in mind. The massive,
TOP FIVE themselves surrounded by package tours and screaming children may almost entirely open-air villas at Soneva Gili are frankly impossible to
BACK-TO- quickly come to regret booking into the first resort whose website they beat, although the super sleek Lagoon and Ocean Villas at Huvafen Fushi TOP FIVE
NATURE looked at. Similarly divers and surfers may find the almost total social-life run a very close second, largely as they all have their own infinity pools. ROMANTIC
RESORTS vacuum in a honeymoon resort a little dull after a week. Essentially you get what you pay for, so it’s probably false economy to go RESORTS
Nika Hotel (p144) for the very cheapest available. Prices have been driven down though, and
Makunudu (p112)
Makunudu (p112)
Back to Nature midrange resorts nearly all have very high-quality water villas. Some good
If you’ve ever fancied the whole Robinson Crusoe experience, or the midrange options include Olhuveli, White Sands and Full Moon. Meeru (p110)
Soneva Fushi (p154) slightly less lonely Swiss Family Robinson get away, the Maldives is way Soneva Gili (p126)
Thulhaagiri (p110) ahead of you, having built much of its tourism industry on precisely this Romance Baros (p115)
Vadoo (p131)
desert island ideal, albeit in many places also providing a butler, gour- Romance is big business in the Maldives, where more than a few visitors
met restaurant and a fleet of staff catering to your every whim, making are on their honeymoon, renewing their vows or just having an indulgent Banyan Tree (p116)
it somewhat more fun than a Daniel Defoe novel. These resorts tend to break with their significant other. Almost anywhere is romantic; although
be very well designed, use imported woods and natural fibres, have little again, the more budget the resort, the more families and big charter groups
or no air conditioning and often open-air rooms with no windowpanes. you’ll get – the intimacy of the romantic experience can be diminished if it’s
The simplicity (even at the top end) of such places, not to mention their peace, quiet and candlelit dinners you are after. Romance does not neces-
peacefulness and relaxed feel, is what attracts people. sarily mean huge cost. It’s hard to think of anywhere more lovely than
little Makunudu island for example, where there’s no TV or loud music,
High Style just gorgeously simple and traditional houses dotted along the beach, and
Maldives is surfing the current wave of the luxury and boutique-hotel vegetation thick with trees planted by past honeymooners. However, the
craze without working up a sweat at all. Indeed, few countries in the usual Maldivian maxim of getting what you pay for is still true here – the
TOP FIVE TOP FIVE
world have such a wealth of choice in this market. All major luxury hotel very most lovely, romantic resorts are certainly not cheap ones.
HIGH-STYLE DIVING RESORTS
brands have or are hoping to establish a presence here and at times things Be aware that you cannot actually get married in the Maldives; you’ll
RESORTS Helengeli (p111)
can look like a never-ending glossy Condé Nast Traveller editorial. As well have to do that elsewhere. However, if you really want to, you can organ-
One & Only Reethi Rah as our personal favourites, at the time of writing there were a host of new ise non-legally binding services and effectively have your wedding here Bathala (p138)
(p125) properties opening by such brand names as W Resorts, Four Seasons and even if the legal formalities are completed elsewhere. Nearly all midrange Equator Village (p171)
Dhoni Mighili (p145) Shangri-La, and these are likely to be in the same league. and top-end resorts can organise such ceremonies, so check websites for
The pampering on offer here is almost legendary. You’ll have your details and special packages. Ellaidhoo (p139)
Island Hideaway (p148)
own thakuru (personal butler), who will look after you during your stay, Machchafushi (p143)
Hilton Maldives (p144) you’ll nearly always have a sumptuous architect-designed villa stuffed full Diving
Soneva Fushi (p154) of beautifully designed furniture and fabrics, a decadent bathroom (often Every resort has its own diving school, and all are run to extremely profes-
open air) and a private open-air area (in a water villa this is usually a sun sional standards as required by Maldivian law. Every resort has access to
deck with a direct staircase into the sea). Some of our very favourite resorts good diving, although nearly all diving is from boats – even if the house
in this category include private pools – OK, not big enough to swim in, but reef is excellent, any diver will tell you that variety is what they look for.
still a wonderful way to cool off or wash the salt off yourself after a dip in It’s very hard to say that one resort has better diving than another, when
the sea. Food in these resorts is universally top notch. There will be a huge in fact all the sites are shared, but there are a few resorts that have obvious
choice of cuisine, with European, Asian and Japanese specialist chefs em- advantages, such as the Equator Village, where coral was not affected by
ployed to come up with an amazing array of dishes day and night. Social the bleaching in 1998, or Helengeli, from where some 40 dive sites can
life will be quiet, and will usually revolve around one of the bars. Most of be reached, giving a huge choice.
the market here are honeymooners, couples and families, but children will
certainly not run riot (most resorts impose a limit on children numbers) Ecotourism TOP FIVE
TOP FIVE ECOTOURISM
WATER VILLAS and even if they do, there will be enough space to get away from them. Ecotourism can so often be a gimmick that it’s important to sort the
Despite the general feel being romantic and stylish, activities will not be wheat from the chaff when selecting a place that claims to be approaching RESORTS
Soneva Gili (p126) ignored – everything from diving to water sports and excursions will be tourism in a unique way, both sustainable and educational. Despite the Banyan Tree (p116)
One & Only Reethi Rah well catered for. Essentially, if you can afford this level of accommodation, lip service paid by many resorts there are actually relatively few that have Angsana (p116)
(p125) you are guaranteed an amazing time, whatever your interests. genuine ecotourism credentials. These include educational programmes,
Soneva Gili (p126)
Huvafen Fushi (p125) sustainable development, environmentally friendly building practices,
Over-Water Villas minimal use of air conditioning and electricity in general and a resort Soneva Fushi (p154)
Full Moon (p113) The over-water villa was introduced to the Maldives in the 1970s from ethos that fosters environmental awareness and care (ie not only offer- Nika Hotel (p144)
Taj Exotica (p132) Tahiti and has slowly become the ultimate status symbol and a feature at ing you Evian when you ask for water – an accusation that can be laid at
almost every resort – with the exception of the low budget. The variation the door of many resorts – but water that has been desalinated on site as
in water villas is immense – at the cheaper end (Paradise, Summer Island) well). The resorts we recommend in this category are leading the way in
they are little more than cheap-looking modern structures that happen the use of materials, their interaction with the local ecosystem and the
to be built on stilts over the water. However, where design has been activities they offer guests.
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ACTIVITIES control device (BCD) and dive computer, if you’re a diver. Dive schools
Few people will want to spend an entire holiday sunbathing and swim- vary enormously in standard and helpfulness, but all are of an exception-
ming (although some do!), and so all resorts are careful to provide a ally high safety standard, as regulated by strict Maldivian laws. Resorts
programme of excursions and activities for guests. Bear in mind that this themselves are not so important for divers – it’s their location and the
is the only way you’ll be able to leave the island during your stay, public ease of access to dive sights nearby. Most resorts have at least 10 sites
transport being nonexistent and opportunities for sightseeing almost as nearby and visit them in rotation. If there’s a particular dive site you
scarce. It’s therefore important to give some thought to what you’d like want to visit, you should contact the dive school at the resort and check
to do other than sun-worship, and check that the resort you’re interested it’ll be running a trip there during your stay. See p61 for more about
Island Hideaway offers a in can cater sufficiently to your interest. snorkelling and diving.
nearby landing strip for While all resorts have a diving centre, the uniformity ends there; you’ll
those coming by private have to check and see if the resort you’re planning to visit has a water- Spa Treatments
jet. The less fortunate sports centre or its own spa, organises guided snorkelling or yoga and As a destination for relaxation, the Maldives has also become well known
must use IAS flights from does any number of other activities you’re interested in. For example the for offering a huge array of treatments in purpose-built spas. These include
Male’. only resort to offer a golf course is Kuredu in Lhaviyani, although there all types of massage, beauty treatments, Ayurvedic medicine, acupuncture
are plans to build a second golf course on one of the islands in the new and traditional Maldivian treatments. Almost all midrange and top-end
wave of resort development. resorts have a spa and the best are sometimes booked up months in ad-
vance, so it can pay to plan ahead if you’re interested in certain treatments.
Day Trips With staff often from Indonesia, India and Sri Lanka, you’re in safe (if
Day trips from your resort are one of the very few ways you’ll be able expensive) hands. You can check most resort websites for a full treatment
to see something of the Maldives. Even if you are a fully independent list, but resorts well known for their spas include Full Moon, Banyan Tree,
traveller (FIT) this is still a good way to see otherwise inaccessible islands both One & Only resorts and both Soneva resorts. The underwater spa at
of the Maldives. Most commonly offered are day trips to the charming Huvafen Fushi is the first of its kind in the world and is truly unique; you
capital Male’ from resorts in North and South Male’ Atolls. These can be can be massaged while watching the fish swimming around the glass walls
fun, but check that you’re able to ditch the group and explore on your
own if you want to. There’s enough to see for a few hours plus plenty of
shopping to merit this trip and it’s a great way to get a feel for Maldiv- QUALITY TOURISM STRATEGY
ian people – you’ll find the terrifyingly polite resort staff replaced by a The first Maldivian resorts were basic beach huts made of local materials. Early visitors loved
friendly and funny city populace. them, but the local economy didn’t benefit much, environmental problems loomed, and the
Another popular excursion is a trip to an inhabited island. These are cultural impact was seen as a real threat, especially as the islands initially attracted pot-smoking,
a poor substitute for individual exploration of the country, but until free-loving hippies rather than the smarter, more conservative crowd you’ll find here today. In
that becomes possible this is as close as most people will be able to get 1978 when President Gayoom came to power, the country adopted a strategy based on ‘quality
to seeing a small island community, traditional housing, craftwork and tourism’, which is administered by tourism laws, all of which have proved prescient and extremely
lifestyle. The trip inevitably feels rather contrived, but can still be im- important in preventing overdevelopment in the Maldives.
Banyan Tree and Angsana Resorts can be established only on uninhabited islands when the government makes them
mensely enjoyable depending on how friendly the locals are and how
won huge acclaim when available for commercial leases. Corporations bid for the lease with a development plan that
many people are around (with children often in school or studying in
they helped neighbour- must conform to strict standards. Resort buildings cannot cover more than 20% of an island’s
Male’, and menfolk away for work, some islands feel more like ghost
ing inhabited island area or be higher than the tallest palm tree. Not a single tree can be cut down without explicit
towns than centres of population).
Naalaafushi rebuild after permission. The maximum number of rooms is limited according to the size of the island, and
the tsunami in partner- the resort developer must provide all the necessary infrastructure, from electricity and water
ship with the United
Fishing
Just about any resort will do sunset, sunrise or night-fishing trips, but supply to sewage treatment and garbage disposal.
Nations Development When the lease on an island expires, the government can require a major renovation and
they are a more authentically Maldivian experience at small, locally run
Programme. upgrade as a condition of renewal, or it can make the island available for a new lease and call
resorts like Asdu Sun Island and Thulhaagiri. Most resorts near Male’
for bids and a redevelopment proposal. The bidding process is very competitive (not to men-
can arrange a big-game fishing trip, including Bandos, Baros, Club Med
tion frequently accused of being horrendously corrupt). Environmental impact and staff welfare
Faru, Full Moon, Kurumba, Laguna and Nakatchafushi. These work out
are considerations in selecting the successful bid, but the main criterion is money – how much
more economically if there are several participants, as costs are high: from
rent will the developer pay the government? This means that successful developers must earn
$400 for a half-day trip for up to four people. Large boats, fully equipped
the maximum return on each room, so new resorts are pushed towards the quality end of the
with radar technology, are used to catch dorado, tuna, marlin, barracuda, market and old resorts are progressively upgraded. It also means that resorts need to fill their
jackfish and sharks. rooms, so prices are also competitive, especially during off-peak periods.
Because every resort is on its own island, a Maldives resort is an isolated and totally managed
Snorkelling & Diving environment. Resorts can offer every modern convenience but still preserve that perfect tropical
The underwater world is definitely one of the best reasons to come to island ambience – the ‘Robinson Crusoe’ factor. There is minimal contact with the local people,
the Maldives. All resorts cater for divers and snorkellers, and organise and therefore little of the ‘cultural pollution’ that Maldivians saw as so undesirable in tourist
twice- or thrice-daily diving excursions and usually at least one snorkel- destinations like Goa, Bali and the Thai coast. As resorts have a vested interest in preserving
ling trip a day. If you’re keen on either, it’ll always be cheaper to bring their immediate environment, there’s no litter, no noise and no pollution.
your own equipment, including snorkel, mask and fins, plus buoyancy
52 CHOOSING A RESORT •• Resor t Basics www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com CHOOSING A RESORT •• Food & Drink 53

of the room. Resorts well known for Ayurvedic therapy include Meedhup-
RESORT BASICS paru, Vadoo, Hilton Maldives and Olhuveli Beach & Spa.
You’ll be met at the airport by your resort representative, who will usually take your ticket Surfing
and/or passport from you, something that is quite normal here despite feeling rather odd to The best resorts for surfing are Dhinveli Beach and Lohifushi, which are
the seasoned traveller. both great. The popularity of surfing is tangibly on the increase in the
Unless you’re arriving after dark you’ll soon be transferred to your resort – either by a waiting Maldives, with surfer arrivals going up massively in the past few years. Kuredu is the only resort
dhoni, speedboat or seaplane from the nearby lagoon airport. You may have to wait for other However, it’s really only these two resorts that are perfectly located near to offer a golf course –
passengers to get through customs, but it shouldn’t be too much of a wait. You can use US dollars good breaks, although nearby resorts, such as Four Seasons Kuda Huraa a real luxury in a
or euros at the airport café, as well as change some cash into rufiya at the bank. and Club Med Kani, can organise boat trips. Truth be told, the best op- country where land is at a
Travellers arriving after dark will have to spend a night at the airport hotel or at a hotel in tion for the serious surfer is to go on a ‘surfari’. See p79 for details on premium!
Male’, as neither boat nor seaplane transfers are carried out after sunset for obvious reasons. surfing in the Maldives.
On arrival at the resort you’ll be given a drink, asked to fill out a registration form and taken
to your room. Resort staff will bring your luggage separately. Water Sports
Second only to diving schools, most resorts have a water-sports centre
Room Types (but not all, so check before booking). These vary enormously – some
Some resorts have just one type of room, which confusingly may be called ‘Superior’, ‘Deluxe’, or offer the most basic array of canoes and windsurfing, while others run the
‘Super Deluxe’. Most bigger, newer resorts have several types of room, ranging from the cheapest gauntlet from water skiing to kite-boarding and the ever-popular banana
‘Superior Garden Villas’ to the ‘Deluxe Over-Water Suites’. A ‘Garden Villa’ will not have a beach boat. The best resorts for sailing and windsurfing have a wide lagoon
frontage, and a ‘Water Villa’ will be on stilts over the lagoon – and twice the cost. that’s not too shallow, and lots of equipment to choose from.
More expensive rooms tend to be bigger, newer, better finished, and can have a bathtub as Resorts with particularly strong water-sports facilities include Kuredu,
well as a shower, a minibar instead of an empty fridge, tea- and coffee-making facilities (even Lohifushi, Dhonveli Beach, Alimatha Aquatic, Bandos, Kuramathi, One
an espresso machine), a CD sound system and/or a Jacuzzi. Smaller over-water accommodation & Only Kanuhura, Meeru, Summer Island, Club Faru, Club Med Kani,
is called a water bungalow, although the delineation of the terms water bungalow and water Vilu Reef, Olhuveli and Reethi Beach.
villa is fluid and largely interchangeable. You’ll find jet skis and other not-so-cheap thrills at Kuredu, One &
Only Kanuhura, Dhonveli Beach, Ellaidhoo, Hilton Maldives, Reethi
Beach, Fun Island, Holiday Island, Vilu Reef, Paradise Island and Royal
Single Supplements & Extra Beds Island, among others.
This book gives room rates for single/double occupancy, but most package-deal prices are quoted
on a per-person basis, assuming double occupancy. Solo travellers have to pay a ‘single-person Wildlife Watching
supplement’ for the privilege of having a room all to themselves. Most resorts offer dolphin cruises, and although there’s no guarantee you’ll
Extra people can usually share a room, but there’s a charge for the extra bed (at least US$15 see anything, dolphins are a common sight in the Maldives and so you’re
for a child, US$30 for an adult) as well as additional costs for meals. In a package-tour price list, always in with a good chance. Depending on favoured dolphin-feeding The twin-otter seaplanes
this appears as a supplement for children sharing the same room as parents, or for extra adults grounds near your resort the cruises can last from one to three hours and used to transfer guests
sharing a room. are usually by dhoni. These are often billed as ‘champagne sunset dolphin to resorts are all built in
For children two years and younger, usually just the US$6 bed tax is payable. From two to cruises’ – and it’s often only one out of three on this score if the dolphins Canada and have to be
12 years, the child supplement with full board will be from US$15 to US$30 in most budget to don’t show, as the ‘champagne’ is Prosecco, even at top-end resorts. flown around the world,
midrange resorts, but much more in expensive resorts. Transfers from the airport are charged Whale watching can be organised from a number of resorts. Be aware a 16,700km journey that
at half the adult rate. A more expensive option is to get two adjacent rooms, ideally with a con- that the Whale Submarine (p95) in Male’ is something of a misnomer; is still more economical
necting door. You might get a discount on the second room. it’s a submarine that visits a reef nearby – there are no whales to be than stripping the plane
seen here. down and shipping it.

Pricing Periods
Pricing patterns vary with the resort and the demands of its main market – some are incredibly FOOD & DRINK
detailed and complex with a different rate every week. The basic pattern is that Christmas–New A miniature revolution in fine cuisine has occurred in the past few years
Year is the peak season, with very high prices, minimum-stay requirements and surcharges for in the Maldives. Once even the top-end hotels had decidedly average
Christmas dinner and New Year’s Eve. Early January to late March is high season, when many offerings at meal times, but now things are quite different, with luxury
Europeans take a winter holiday. The weeks around Easter may attract even higher rates (but not
hotels offering a huge choice from an ever-growing number of eateries,
as high as Christmas). From Easter to about mid-July is low season (and the wettest part of the
allowing guests to eat somewhere different every day for several days.
year). July, August and September is another high season, for the European summer holidays.
The buffet, the standard lunch and dinner option is still in evidence,
Mid-September to early December is low season again.
however, and extremely variable they can be too – the usual Maldivian
maxim that you get what you pay for is true here. Some particularly good
Specific markets can have their own times of high demand, such as the August holiday week
buffets we enjoyed while researching this book included those at Olhuveli,
for Italians, Chinese New Year in the Asian market or the end of Ramadan for some Middle
Banyan Tree and Soneva Gili.
Eastern guests.
Alcohol is also becoming more of a feature at resorts – many have
spent years building up wine cellars to rival any French restaurant, and
54 CHOOSING A RESORT •• Food & Drink www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com CHOOSING A RESORT •• Food & Drink 55

as you’d expect these are not cheap. Reethi Rah claims to have over MEALS
8,000 bottles of wine in its cellar, while Huvafen Fushi’s wine cellar is a Typically, breakfast will include a choice of cereals, fresh fruit, fruit
work of art itself, buried deep below the island and hired out for private juice from cans or concentrate, instant or real coffee, tea, bread rolls,
dinners at great expense. toast, omelettes or fried eggs done as you like, sausages, bacon, baked
However, in all cases alcohol is expensive and with a few luxury ex- beans, and often a curry and rice. At more upmarket resorts you could
ceptions, limited in range. Beers available will not thrill connoisseurs – also have muesli, yoghurt, more fresh fruits, fresh-squeezed fruit juice,
although Kirin and Tiger are commonly seen amid the Heineken and brewed coffee, better bread, croissants and real ham. You get what you
Carling. All-inclusive packages include certain designated drinks, usually pay for, remember.
the cheapest non-brand-name beer going, a house red and white wine For lunch, most resorts manage soup and a simple salad, pasta, rice,
and non-brand-name spirits. People on these tours can usually be found instant noodles, and at least one each of fish, beef and chicken dishes,
drinking, perhaps to justify the price of the package. often prepared as curry, casserole or stew, with fruit and dessert to

MALDIVES RESORT RATINGS Resort A B C D E F G H I J

Each resort is given a number out of three for how it scores on each front, three being the Kudarah 1 2 3 2 2 2 2 3 2 2
very highest standard in its field. A zero means that the resort has absolutely nothing worth Kuramathi Blue Lagoon 3 2 1 2 1 2 3 3 3 3
mentioning on a subject; for example if it doesn’t accept children, it gets a zero for children’s Kuramathi Cottage & Spa 3 2 1 3 1 2 2 3 3 3
activities. Kuramathi Village 3 1 3 1 1 2 1 3 3 3
A = Beach F = Food Kuredu 3 2 3 2 2 2 1 3 3 3
B = Romance G = Design Kurumba 3 2 1 2 3 3 2 3 3 3
C = Social Life H = Diving Laguna Beach 3 2 2 2 3 2 1 3 2 2
D = Pampering I = Snorkelling Lily Beach 2 2 3 1 2 2 1 3 3 1
E = Children’s Activities J = Water Sports Lohifushi 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 3 2 3
Maayafushi 3 2 1 1 1 2 1 3 3 1
Resort A B C D E F G H I J Machchafushi 2 2 2 1 2 2 1 3 3 1
Madoogali 3 3 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 2
Alimatha Aquatic 3 2 2 1 1 2 2 3 3 3 Makunudu 2 3 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 1
Angaga 3 2 2 1 2 2 2 3 3 2 Meedhupparu 3 2 2 2 2 2 1 3 2 3
Angsana 3 3 1 2 0 3 3 3 3 2 Meeru 3 2 2 1 1 2 2 3 2 3
Bandos 2 1 3 1 3 2 1 2 3 3 Mirihi 3 2 1 1 2 2 2 3 2 2
Banyan Tree 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 2 Moofushi 2 2 2 1 1 2 1 3 2 1
Baros 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 2 2 Nika Hotel 3 3 1 3 1 3 2 3 3 2
Bathala 3 2 2 1 2 2 1 3 3 3 Olhuveli Beach 3 3 1 3 1 2 2 3 3 3
Bolifushi 2 2 2 1 2 1 1 3 3 3 One & Only Kanuhura 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Club Med Kani 3 1 3 1 3 2 2 3 3 3 One & Only Reethi Rah 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 3
Club Rannalhi 3 2 3 1 3 2 1 3 3 2 Palm Beach 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 1 2
Cocoa Island 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 3 Paradise Island 3 1 2 1 2 1 1 3 3 3
Dhiggiri 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 3 3 2 Ranveli Village 3 2 2 2 2 3 2 3 3 2
Dhoni Mighili 3 3 1 3 0 3 3 3 2 2 Reethi Beach 3 2 1 1 1 2 2 3 3 3
Dhonveli Beach 3 1 2 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 Rihiveli Beach 3 3 1 2 1 3 2 3 1 3
Ellaidhoo 3 1 2 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 Royal Island 3 2 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 3
Embudu Village 3 1 2 1 2 2 1 3 3 2 Soneva Fushi 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 2
Equator Village 1 1 3 1 2 1 1 3 3 2 Soneva Gili 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 3
Eriyadu 3 2 2 1 1 2 1 3 3 2 Summer Island Village 3 1 2 1 2 1 1 3 3 3
Fihalhohi 3 2 2 1 2 2 1 3 3 2 Sun Island 2 1 3 1 3 3 1 3 3 3
Filitheyo 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 3 1 1 Taj Coral Reef 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 1
Full Moon 3 3 1 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 Taj Exotica 3 3 2 3 1 3 3 3 3 2
Hakuraa Club 3 3 2 1 2 2 2 3 1 1 Thulhaagiri 3 2 2 1 1 2 1 3 3 2
Halaveli 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 Vadoo 3 3 1 2 1 2 1 3 3 2
Helengeli 3 2 2 1 1 1 2 3 3 0 Vakarufalhi 3 2 2 1 1 2 1 3 3 2
Hilton Maldives 3 3 1 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 Velavaru 3 3 2 2 1 2 3 3 3 2
Holiday Island 3 1 2 1 2 1 1 3 1 2 Velidhu 3 2 2 1 1 1 1 3 3 3
Huvafen Fushi 3 3 1 3 1 3 3 3 3 3 Veligandu 3 2 2 2 1 2 1 3 3 2
Island Hideaway 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 3 3 2 Vilamendhoo Island 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 3 3 2
Kihaadhuffaru 3 3 2 2 3 2 2 3 3 2 Vilu Reef 3 3 2 3 1 2 2 3 3 3
Komandoo 2 3 1 2 0 2 3 3 3 3 White Sands 3 2 2 2 1 2 2 3 3 3
 56 CHOOSING A RESORT •• Food & Drink www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com CHOOSING A RESORT •• Enter tainment 57

finish. Better resorts offer more varied salad vegetables, pasta freshly
tossed with a choice of sauces, Hokkien noodles, freshly fried fish fillets RESORT TIPS
and more creative chicken and beef dishes. It’s always worth checking a resort website yourself and even contacting the resort for specific,
Dinner will usually have the biggest selection, and may be a ‘theme up-to-date information, as things change regularly. Is there construction work happening on the
night’ specialising in regional cuisines such as Italian, Asian, Indian or island? Is the spa finished yet? Do they still offer kite-boarding? Also, be aware that many resort
Maldivian (usually meaning fanciful versions of local dishes, not authen- websites have never been updated since they were created. While there are exceptions, it’s never
tic for the most part). Most resorts will have soup, salad and a dozen a good idea to take the information there as fact – check when the page was last updated.
or so hot dishes, with at least two each of fish, beef and chicken. A few Check the dive-centre website. It might provide a discount if you book your dives before your
Always ask for desalin-
dishes will be vegetarian – ratatouille, vegetable curry, pasta alla fungi or arrival. Email them for any specific dive information.
ated water to drink; any
potatoes Provençale. There’ll be a pasta dish or three, possibly a lasagne, If the trip is a honeymoon, or second honeymoon, or if you will be celebrating an anniver-
good resort will provide
and stir-fried noodles, as well as plain rice, saffron rice, fried rice, and sary or birthday, let your travel agent or tour company know – the resort might surprise you.
this (preferably free) and
maybe risotto. There’s a trend for ‘live cooking stations’ at one or more Some rather tacky resorts on the other hand might require a wedding certificate before they
not just a US$8 bottle of
places along the buffet tables, where food is fried or barbecued to taste do anything – the Maldives is notorious for couples claiming to be on their honeymoon just to
imported Evian, which is
while you watch – great for fresh fish, prawns, pasta, steak and shish get some freebies!
exorbitant in both cash
kebab. Whole fish and roast meats are carved and served as you like.
and carbon.
Fancier resorts feature more and fresher seafood and it’s less likely to be
overcooked – the best places serve sashimi. Salad is another class marker – in the main restaurant, which is not charged as an extra). Or it can be
a budget resort will serve iceberg lettuce, coleslaw and cucumber with a a private dinner for two in romantic surroundings – on an inhabited
basic bottled mayo, French or Thousand Island dressing. A better resort island, on the beach, or on a sandbar in ankle-deep water. Most resorts
will have cos lettuce, rocket, radicchio, spinach leaves and three kinds of will do special meals on request.
cabbage, with freshly made mayonnaise and your choice of vinegars and
olive oils. Only the very best resorts have ripe, red, tasty tomatoes. MEAL PLANS
Desserts can be delicious, with pastries, fruit pies, tarts, tiramisu, Many guests are on full-board packages that include accommodation and
mousse, blancmange, custard and cheesecake all on offer at the far end of all meals. Others take a half-board package, which includes breakfast and Look out for the barefoot
the buffet. The best resorts might have crepes prepared at a live cooking dinner, and pay extra for lunch. Some resorts offer a bed and breakfast pilots on Maldivian Air
station, and a choice of cheeses too. plan, and guests pay separately for lunch and dinner. The advantage of Taxi and Trans Maldivian.
Budget resorts might offer a set menu only for some meals – perhaps not paying for all your meals in advance is that you permit yourself the Not only do they go to
for lunch, or on alternate days for dinner. These are OK, and will give freedom to vary where you eat (assuming your resort has more than one work in shorts, many of
your waistline some respite. At the other end of the market, the best re- restaurant). However, at good resorts your full-board plan is usually them spend the nights
sorts serve some meals à la carte – the chef has a chance to do something transferable, meaning you can eat a certain amount at other restaurants, in luxury resorts before
special and creative, and the waiters enjoy giving full table service. or at least get a big discount on the à la carte prices. flying back to Male’ the
As well as the main buffet restaurant, big resorts usually have ‘speci- Room-only deals are also sometimes available, but they’re rarely a great next morning – not the
ality restaurants’ serving regional cuisine (Thai, Japanese, Italian, Indian idea. Never underestimate the sheer expense of eating à la carte in the world’s worst job.
etc) or grills and seafood. These can be expensive (main courses US$15 Maldives at any level, although at the top end it’s positively outrageous –
to US$50) but in better resorts are excellent, think US$100 per head without alcohol for a decent lunch. Self-catering
Most resorts have a ‘coffee shop’ serving light meals, coffee and drinks, is of course not possible and there’s nothing worse than being unable to
often 24 hours a day. They’re good for people on half board who want a eat properly due to financial constraints. Unless you’re very comfortable
snack in the middle of the day. financially and want to eat in a variety of different places, we strongly
Another alternative to the usual buffet is a ‘speciality meal’. This encourage you to book full- or half-board meal plans.
might be a barbecue or a curry night, served on the beach, and open to All-inclusive plans are some of the best value of all, although in general
anyone who pays the extra charge, perhaps US$25 (unlike a theme night they’re associated with the core package-tourist market and tend to be
available only in budget resorts. These typically include all drinks (non-
brand-name alcohol, soft drinks and water) and some activities and water Be prepared to get on the
A TASTE OF THE MALDIVES sports/diving thrown in for good measure. Always investigate carefully ex- weighing scales yourself
It used to be rare to find Maldivian food in tourist resorts – the opinion was that Western stom- actly what’s on offer meal-wise before you make a decision – the meal plan if you are flying on Island
achs couldn’t cope with the spices. Now many resorts do a Maldivian barbecue once a week, can make an expensive package worthwhile or a cheap one a rip-off. Aviation Services, the
which is very enjoyable if not totally authentic. These barbecues can be on the beach, by the domestic airline. The
pool or held in the restaurant. The main dishes are fresh reef fish, baked tuna, fish curries, rice ENTERTAINMENT planes are small and
and roshi (unleavened bread). The regular dinner buffet might also feature Maldivian fish curry. Beware the animator! These lively people are forever trying to encour- everyone’s weight needs
Less common is the Maldivian breakfast favourite mas huni, a healthy mixture of tuna, onion, age group work-outs or karaoke competitions in Italian-dominated to be taken into account.
coconut and chilli, eaten with roshi. If there’s nothing Maldivian on the menu, you could ask the resorts even though they have been roundly rejected by the smarter
kitchen staff to make a fish curry or a tray of short eats – they may be making some for the staff resorts. Their days in the Maldives are numbered as the country’s
anyway. Small resorts are usually amenable to special requests. Otherwise, do a trip to Male’ or tourist industry increasingly tries to define the Maldives as a stylish
an island-hopping excursion to a fishing village, and try out a local teashop. and fashionable destination, but they’re still determinedly hanging on
in some places for the time being.
58 CHOOSING A RESORT •• Enter tainment www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C H O O S I N G A R E S O R T • • Lu x u r i e s 59

The truth is that the Maldives is not a premium destination for en- Most resorts have some low-key entertainment a couple of evenings
tertainment. What little of it there is can be fairly naff and uninspiring, a week. Usually it’s a fairly cringe-inducing covers band, although other
and the resorts that insist on a nightly disco often find them empty. more interesting performers such as traditional Maldivian bodu beru
Simply put, honeymooners, divers and families, the core demographic of (big drum) players, Sri Lankan fire dancers or a jazz band are also
Maldivian tourism, don’t really come here for any kind of entertainment, common.
preferring quiet romance and daily activities to night-time ones.
The biggest party and entertainment resort is Club Med Kani, with its LUXURIES
tireless round of animator high jinks and nightly disco, and to a lesser You’ve come to the right place if this is your main interest – the Maldives’
extent Bandos, where visiting air crews can often be the life and soul of top-end resorts (and to a good extent even its midrange options) offer
the party. The W Retreat & Spa, opening in late 2006, plans to be some- an eye-watering range of ‘treatments’, pampering, and a general level of
thing of a party island with a 24-hour underground bar. luxury that you can find in few other places.

SAFARI CRUISES
Safaris are a superb option for anyone wanting the best possible combination of diving sites, „ Cabin arrangements – Can you get a two-berth cabin (if that’s what you want)? How many
the chance to travel outside the standard tourist zone and a sociable arena where both couples cabins/people are sharing a bathroom?
and noncouples will feel totally comfortable.
„ Comforts – Does the boat have air-con, hot water and desalinated water available 24 hours?
The massive expansion in the market for safari cruises has meant an increasingly sleek approach
from the tour companies that run them; a typical, modern boat is air conditioned, spacious, and „ Companions – Who else will be on the trip, what language do they speak, have they done a
serves varied and appetising meals. It should have hot water, a sun deck, fishing and diving gear, safari trip before? What are their interests – diving, sightseeing, fishing, surfing?
mobile phone, full bar, DVD player and cosy, comfortable cabins. „ Food and drink – Can you be catered for as a vegetarian or vegan? Is there a bar serving
Costs start at around US$90 per person per day, including the US$8 per day bed tax and all alcohol and, if so, how much is a beer/wine/scotch etc?
meals, plus roughly US$50 per day for diving trips. There’s usually a minimum daily (or weekly) „ Recreation – Does the boat have a video player, CD player, fishing tackle or sun deck? Does
charge for the whole boat, and the cost per person is lower if there are enough passengers to the boat have sails or is it propelled by motor only?
fill the boat. You’ll be charged extra for soft drinks and alcohol, which are priced as you’d expect
to find in most resorts. You might splurge for the occasional meal at a resort, but generally there
Safari Boat Operators
are few extras to spend money on.
Safari boats often change ownership, or get refitted or acquire a new name or both. The skipper,
The most basic boats are large dhonis with a small galley and communal dining area, two or
cook and divemaster can change too, so it’s hard to make firm recommendations. The following
three cramped cabins with two berths each, and a shared shower and toilet. Passengers often
boats have a good reputation, but there are many others offering good facilities and services.
drag their mattresses out on deck for fresh air, and sleep under the stars. Food is prepared on
The boats listed here all have a bar on board, oxygen for emergencies, and some diving equip-
board and varies from very ordinary to very good – it usually features lots of freshly caught
ment for rent. Universal’s Atoll Explorer is like a mini-cruise ship with a swimming pool on deck,
fish. The bigger, better boats have air conditioning, more spacious accommodation, and a toilet
and the Four Seasons Island Explorer is the most luxurious and the most expensive of all. The
and shower for each cabin. The best boats, like the best resorts, spare no effort in making their
websites are those of the boat operators. Many of these operators have other boats as well,
guests comfortable.
which may also be very good. If the website does not give booking information (or it’s not in
Most safari trips are for diving (see p63) or so-called ‘surfaris’ for surfing (see p82). A minor-
your language), most of these boats can be booked through the bigger tour operators in Male’
ity of safari trips are primarily for sightseeing, and usually offer a fair amount of fishing and
(see p91), or by overseas travel agents. The official tourism website (www.visitmaldives.com) has
snorkelling, stops at fishing villages and resorts, and picnics or a camp-out on an uninhabited
reasonably up-to-date details on almost every safari and cruise boat.
island. Obviously it’s important to make sure you’re joining a trip that will cover what you
want to do. Adventurer I (%3326734; www.maldivesdiving.com; a) Boat 22m, six cabins, 12 berths, hot water.
On a scheduled trip, a single passenger may have to share a cabin with another, or pay a Atoll Explorer (%3314873; www.atollexplorer.com; a) Boat 48m, 20 cabins, 40 berths, hot water.
premium rate. Compatibility isn’t usually a problem on diving or surf trips, where everyone has Eagle Ray (%3314841; www.maldivesboatclub.com.mv) Boat 26m, seven cabins, 14 berths, hot water.
a common interest, but it can be an issue on longer sightseeing cruises. If you arrange your own Flying Fish (%3310314; www.movinmaldives.com) Boat 26m, seven cabins, 14 berths, hot water.
group of six or so people, you can charter a whole boat and tailor a trip to suit your interests. Four Seasons Explorer (%6644888; www.fourseasons.com/maldives; a) Boat 39m, 11 cabins, 22 berths,
hot water.
Gulfaam (%3323617; www.voyagesmaldives.com; a) Boat 20m; six cabins, 12 berths.
Choosing a Safari Boat Haveyli (%3320555; www.guraabu.com.mv) Boat 30m, 11 cabins, 22 berths, hot water.
More than 80 safari boats are operating in the Maldives. Some specific suggestions are given
Keema (%3313539; www.interlinkmaldives.com; a) Boat 27m; six cabins, 12 berths, hot water.
here, but you’ll need to do some research yourself. When you’re considering a safari-boat trip,
MV Carina (%3316172 www.seamaldives.com.mv; a) Boat 33m; 11 cabins, 33 berths, hot water.
ask the operator about the following. Nautilus I (%3315253; www.nautilus.at) Boat 30m, eight cabins, 16 berths, hot water.
„ Boat size – Generally speaking, bigger boats will be more comfortable, and therefore more Nooraanee Queen (%3310314; www.movinmaldives.com; a) Boat 43m, 19 cabins, 42 berths, hot water.
expensive, than small boats. Boats with more than 20 or so passengers may not have the cama- Soleil (%3320555; www.guraabu.com.mv; a) Boat 28m; nine cabins, 17 berths, hot water.
raderie you’d get with a small group. Most boats have about 12 berths or less; few boats have Sting Ray (%3314841; www.maldivesboatclub.com.mv; a) Boat 31m, nine cabins, 22 berths, hot water.
more than 20. Sultan of Maldives (%3310550; www.sultansoftheseas.com; a) Boat 30m; eight cabins, 16 berths, hot water.
 60 CHOOSING A RESORT •• Beaches www.lonelyplanet.com

The current sine qua non of the luxury industry is the personal thakuru,
otherwise known rather patronisingly as a ‘man Friday’ or the simply in-
accurate description of butler. The thakuru is assigned to you throughout
your stay. He’s your point of contact for all small things (restocking the
fridge, reconfirming your flight) and resembles a butler in no way at all
really. Given that one thakuru will often be looking after up to ten rooms
at a time, the term ‘personal’ is pushing it a bit.
The main centre of luxury at most resorts is the spa – until recently
they were considered optional for resorts, whereas now they are usually
at the very centre of the luxury experience. Expect to pay from about
US$40 for a simple massage at a budget or midrange place to US$200
for a long session of pampering.
Resort spas in good resorts are often run by companies such as ESPA,
Serena, Per Aquum and Six Senses. At this very highest level they offer a
‘Believe it or vast range of treatments from the sublime to the truly ridiculous. Some
of our favourite names include Fit For Life Aromatic Moor Mud Wrap,
not, there’s Tamarind Fancy Wipe, Potato Purifier and Happy Man Relaxer (no jokes
almost no please). Perhaps it’s because we can’t afford to spend US$200 on a foot
resort in the massage, but it all seems rather funny to us; there’s a lot to be said for
gorgeous relaxing treatments, but you’ll meet your fair share of Bubbles
Maldives Devere types here who go from treatment to treatment all day long.
that does
not have BEACHES
Believe it or not, there’s almost no resort in the Maldives that does not
an amazing have an amazing beach. Throughout the course of researching this book,
beach.’ the only really mediocre beach we saw was at the Equator Village. It’s still
swimmable but narrow and strewn with seaweed, making swimming un-
pleasant. Beaches suffer a great deal from beach erosion and the tsunami did
not help this at all, but resorts work very hard to redress erosion with sand
pumps, which, while unsightly, are working day and night in many resorts
to restore sand to its original place. Giravaru, near Male’, suffers from lit-
ter washing up on its beaches regularly, but other than that the quality of
beach is almost universally brilliant. However, for the record here’s a few of
our favourites: One & Only Kanuhura, Kuredu, Palm Beach, Soneva Fushi,
Reethi Beach, Royal Island, Coco Palm, Meedhupparu, Eriyadu, Angsana,
Bandos, Baros, Banyan Tree, Soneva Gili, Club Med Kani, Rihiveli, Club
Rannalhi, Fihalhohi, Sun Island, Bathala, Thundufushi, Veligandu, Villu
Reef, Vakarufalhi, Filitheyo, Fun Island and Hilton Maldives.

CHILDREN
If you’re bringing children to the Maldives, it’s very important to get your
choice of resort right, as only a few resorts have kids clubs or baby-sitters
available, and activities for older children can be limited at resorts more
used to welcoming honeymooning couples. If you aren’t looking for kids
clubs and your kids are happy to spend the day on the beach, then almost
every resort will be suitable. Note that Komandoo and Dhoni Mighili do
not accept children aged under six and 12 respectively.
In general kids will love the Maldives, although for more than a week
it might be pushing it unless you’re staying in a big and friendly family
resort where there are plenty of other children for them to play with and
an endless parade of activities.
Some highly recommended resorts for children include: Kuredu, One
& Only Kanuhura, Bandos, Kurumba, Medhufushi, Filitheyo, Club Med
Kani, Paradise Island, Laguna Beach, Kuramathi Meeru, Lily Beach and
Sun Island.
 61

Snorkelling, Diving &

Surfing
Unless you take some time to explore the magical world underneath the
water in the Maldives, you’re seeing just one tiny part of this incredibly
diverse country. Yes, the flora and fauna on the tiny scraps of land pok-
ing their heads above the water are not the most spectacular or varied,
but glance into the deep blue all around and you’ll see marine life so
incredible that you’ll quickly understand why the Maldives is a favourite
destination for divers around the world.
The visibility is incredible, the water so warm that many divers don’t
even wear a wetsuit and the sheer variety of life underwater is so fantastic
that it’s easy to understand why most people dive or snorkel during their
travels here. Because of the thoroughly professional and safety-conscious
approach from all resorts and excellent facilities it’s common to learn to
dive in the Maldives as well. Even if you don’t do a full PADI or equivalent ‘Snorkelling
course, a brief scuba introduction is very cheap and lots of fun, while is the first
snorkelling can be done by anyone who can swim.
A further boon about the Maldives’ submarine life is that as well as
step into
being plentiful, beautiful and accessible, it’s also extremely unaggressive. seeing a
Despite its being rich in sharks, there’s not one type likely to attack a different
human, and the only possible reason it would attack in any case would
be self-defence.
world.’
Diving in particular requires some planning; decide your level, what
you want to see and how much diving you want to do before choosing
a resort. Snorkelling is similar – some resorts have no good house reef
and thus you have to go on a boat trip to see anything worthwhile. Surf-
ing is the most seasonal of all – but it’s an increasingly popular activity
in the east of the country, with some great breaks coming off the Indian
Ocean.

SNORKELLING
Snorkelling is the first step into seeing a different world. Anyone who can
swim can do it, it’s very cheap (and often free at smarter resorts) to rent
the equipment and the rewards make themselves known immediately.
The colours of the fish and coral are far better at shallow depths, as water
absorbs light, and so below 5m colours start to become less sharp (hence
why so many divers carry torches to compensate). This means a visual
feast awaits any snorkeller on any decent reef.

WHERE TO SNORKEL
Usually an island is surrounded firstly by a sand-bottomed lagoon, and
then by the reef flat (faru), a belt of dead and living coral covered by
shallow water. At the edge of the reef flat is a steep, coral-covered slope
that drops away into deeper water. These reef slopes are the best areas
for snorkelling – around a resort island this is called the house reef. The
slope itself can have interesting features such as cliffs, terraces and caves,
and there are clearly visible changes in the coral and marine flora as the
water gets deeper. You can see both the smaller fish, which frequent the
 62 SNORKELLING •• Top Snorkelling Sites www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com DIVING 63

reef flats, and sometimes much larger animals that live in the deep water Mask
between the islands, but come close to the reefs to feed. Human eyes won’t normally focus in water, but a face mask keeps an
You can also take a boat from your resort to other snorkelling sites air space in front of your eyes so that you can focus under water. Any
around the atoll. A giri (coral pinnacle) that rises to within 5m of the mask, no matter how cheap, should have a shatterproof lens. Ensure
surface, is ideal for snorkelling, which is not difficult if it’s in sheltered that it fits you comfortably – press it gently onto your face, breathe
waters inside an atoll. A kandu (sea channel) will usually have excellent in through your nose a little, and the suction should hold the mask
soft corals, schools of reef fish and large pelagic species. on your face.
The best resorts for snorkelling have an accessible house reef, where If you’re short-sighted you can get the mask lens ground to your opti-
the deep water is not far offshore, at least around part of the island. cal prescription, but this is expensive. Alternatively, get a stick-on optical
There are usually channels you can swim through to the outer-reef lens to attach to the inside of the mask lens, or simply fold up an old pair
The whale shark is the
slope. To avoid grazing yourself or damaging the coral, always use these of spectacles and wedge them inside the mask. There’s no problem with
largest fish in the world –
channels rather than trying to find your own way across the reef flat. contact lenses under the mask, although theoretically they can be lost if
they regularly reach up
Another option is to walk out on a jetty to the reef edge – all resorts the mask is flooded.
to 12m in length and
have at least one jetty, though sometimes they don’t extend right to the
are one of the biggest
edge of the reef. Snorkel
diving attractions when
Resorts with excellent house reefs tend to be popular with divers too. The tube has to be long enough to reach above the surface of the water,
they cruise the kandus ‘For keen
Some of the best are Ellaido, Bathala, Vadoo, Mirihi, Biyadhoo, Eriyadu, but should not be either too long or too wide. If it is too big then you
in May.
Machchafushi, Vilamendhoo, Filitheyo, Reethi Beach, Embudu Village, have more water to expel when you come to the surface. Also, each breath divers, a
W Resort, Soneva Gili, Olhuveli Beach & Spa, Vakarufalhi and Kuredu. out leaves a snorkel full of used air, and if the snorkel is too big, you will
Resorts that don’t have an accessible house reef will usually provide rebreathe a larger proportion of carbon dioxide.
safari trip is
a couple of boat trips per day to a good snorkelling site nearby, but a great way
this is a lot less convenient as you’re limited in time and not usually Fins to get in a
alone. Many resorts offer island-hopping trips or snorkelling excur- These are not absolutely necessary, but they make swimming easier and
sions that stop at really superb snorkelling sites, and these are a far let you dive deeper, and they give a margin of safety in currents. Fins ei-
lot of dives
better option. Full-day excursions usually cost from US$20 to US$30 ther fit completely over your foot or have an open back with an adjustable at a variety
or so, but are definitely worth it. Kuredu Island resort has the most strap around your heel, designed for use with wetsuit boots. of sites, and
comprehensive snorkelling programme, with guided snorkelling trips
to many interesting sites, including a shipwreck. Sometimes snorkel- Shirt it will prob-
lers can go out with a dive boat, if the dive site is suitable and there’s A Lycra swim shirt or thin wetsuit top will protect against sunburn and ably work
space on the boat. minor scratches from the coral or rocks. Even a T-shirt will give some out cheaper
sun protection – sunburn is a real hazard – but don’t use a favourite as
TOP SNORKELLING SITES the sea water won’t do the fabric any favours, unless you’re going for
than a
If you stay in a resort with an interesting and accessible house reef, that that distressed look. resort-based
will probably be your main snorkelling site. You can visit the same reef dive trip.’
again and again, and get to know its nooks and crannies, its resident fish SNORKELLING SAFELY
and its regular visitors. Don’t snorkel alone, and always let someone else know where and when
A resort excursion can take you to the best snorkelling sites in your you’ll be snorkelling. Colourful equipment or clothing will make you
atoll, and if you’re on a live-aboard safari boat you’ll have an unlimited more visible. Beware of strong currents or rough conditions – wind chop
choice. The best snorkelling sites are also dive sites, with a lot of interest and large swells can make snorkelling uncomfortable, or even danger-
in the shallower water. Fit and experienced snorkellers can free-dive to ous. In open waters, carry a safety balloon and whistle to alert boats to
5m or more without too much trouble, and if the visibility is good they your presence.
can appreciate any features down to about 10m. Many of the dive sites
described in this book are also excellent for snorkelling.

PREPARATION
DIVING
If you’ve never tried snorkelling before, you’ll soon pick it up. Many re- Taking the proper plunge into the deep blue is the most exciting thing
sorts give brief snorkelling lessons free of charge in swimming pools or in imaginable and the rewards massive, especially in the Maldives, which is
shallow parts of the lagoon. Every resort will have snorkelling equipment rightly known as a world-class scuba diving destination. The enormous
that you can rent, but this will cost US$5 to US$10 per day (although less variety of fish life is amazing, and there’s a good chance you’ll see some
by the week and free at smarter resorts). It’s definitely better to have your of the biggest marine creatures – a close encounter with a giant manta
own. It’s also cheaper in the long run and you can be sure that it suits or a 2m Napoleon wrasse is unforgettable, and the friendly sharks of the
you and fits properly. You can buy good-quality equipment at reasonable Maldives are legendary.
prices at the airport shop and in Male’. Most resort shops sell them too, Combine this with warm water, visibility reliably over 25m and pro-
but the range is smaller and the prices are higher. Ideally, you should fessional dive centres, and you’ll know why divers come back again and
bring your own set from home. again.
 64 DIVING •• Diving Safaris www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I V I N G • • W h e re T o D i v e 65

DIVING SAFARIS can be terrific for night dives too. See p49 for more on the resorts with
On a diving safari, a dozen or so divers cruise the atolls in a live-aboard the best house reefs.
boat fitted out for the purpose. You can stop at your pick of the dive
sites, visit uninhabited islands and local villages, find secluded anchor- Reef Atoll Reef type
ages and sleep in a compact cabin. If you’ve had enough diving, you can
fish, snorkel or swim off the boat. Banana Reef North Male’ reef & kandu
Generally, bigger boats are more comfortable, more fully equipped and Devana Kandu Vaavu kandu & thila
more expensive. For keen divers, a safari trip is a great way to get in a lot Embudhoo Express South Male’ kandu
of dives at a variety of sites, and it will probably work out cheaper than Fotteyo Vaavu kandu
a resort-based dive trip. See p58 for general information about cruises Fushifaru Thila Lhaviyani thila kandu
and choosing a safari boat. Kuda Giri South Male’ giri & wreck
Everyone on a diving safari should be a qualified diver. If you need to Kuda Kandu Addu kandu
do a diving course, contact the boat operator in advance (you may need Kuredhoo Express Lhaviyani kandu
a minimum of two to four people for a course). Dive clubs can often get Lion’s Head North Male’ outer-reef slope
together enough members to fill a safari boat and design a programme Maa Kandu Addu kandu & reef
and itinerary that suits their needs. Ideally, everyone on board should be Macro Spot Dhaal giri
of a similar diving standard. Manta Reef Ari reef & kandu
The whale shark is an A diving safari should have a separate dhoni that has the compres- Milaidhoo Reef Baa kandu
evolutionary oddity, skip- sor and most of the equipment on board. This means that compressor Orimas Thila Ari thila
ping almost the whole noise doesn’t disturb passengers at night, and the smaller boat can be Panetone Ari kandu
food chain to ensure its used for excursions near shallow reefs. All dive safari boats will have Rakeedhoo Kandu Vaavu kandu
survival: despite being tanks and weights, and they’ll be included in the cost of dives. Regula- Rasdhoo Madivar Ari outer-reef slope
the biggest fish in the tors, buoyancy control devices (BCDs), depth gauges, tank pressure Two Brothers Faafu giri
water, it feeds solely on gauges and dive computers are available on most boats for an additional Vaadhoo Caves South Male’ kandu
plankton. charge. It’s best to bring your own mask, snorkel, fins and wetsuit. Ask
about the availability of specialised equipment such as cameras, lights Outer-reef slopes, where the atoll meets the open sea, often have interest-
and nitrox. A video player is good for entertainment and playing back ing terraces, overhangs and caves, and are visited by pelagics. Visibility is
dive videos. Facilities for recharging camera batteries are handy. Check usually good, but surf and currents can make for a demanding dive.
www.visitmaldives.com for reasonably up-to-date details on what each
boat provides. Kandus
For safety, every dive-safari boat should have oxygen equipment, a These are channels between islands, reefs or atolls. Obviously, kandus
first-aid kit and good radio and telephone communications with Male’. are subject to currents and this provides an environment in which at-
The divemasters should give thorough predive briefings and emergency tractive soft corals thrive. Water inside an atoll is a breeding ground for
plans, have a check list of every diver and do a roll call after each dive. plankton, and where this water flows out through a kandu into the open
It’s good to have descent lines and drift lines available for use in strong sea, the rich supply of plankton attracts large animals such as manta rays
currents, and to be able to hang a safety tank at 5m for deeper dives. Night and whale sharks. During the southwest monsoon (May to November),
diving requires powerful lights, including a strobe light. currents will generally flow out of an atoll through kandus on the eastern
side, while in the northeast monsoon (December to March), the outward
WHERE TO DIVE flow is on the western side.
There are hundreds of recognised and named dive sites, and dozens ac-
cessible from nearly every resort. Many of the best dives are described in Thilas & Giris
detail in Lonely Planet’s Diving & Snorkeling Maldives. In general there A thila is a coral formation that rises steeply from the atoll floor and
are four types of dive sites in the Maldives. reaches to between 5m and 15m of the water surface – often it’s a spec-
tacular underwater mountain that divers fly around like birds. The top
Reef Dives of a thila can be rich in reef fish and coral, while the steep sides have
The edges of a reef, where it slopes into deep water, are the most interest- crannies, caves and overhangs, which provide shelter for many small fish,
ing part of a reef to dive. Inner-reef slopes, in the sheltered waters inside and larger fish come, in turn, to feed on the smaller fish.
an atoll, are generally easier dives and feature numerous smaller reef A giri is a coral formation that rises to just below the water surface.
fish. Hard corals on inner-reef slopes were badly damaged by bleaching, It has many of the same features as a thila, but the top surface may be
but are growing back at various rates. The reef around a resort island is too shallow to dive.
known as its ‘house reef’, and only the guests of that resort are allowed Thilas and giris are found inside kandus, where the nutrient-rich cur-
to dive or snorkel on it. rents promote soft-coral growth. They also stand in the sheltered waters
At some resorts qualified divers can do unguided dives on the house inside an atoll, where the sea is warmer and slower moving. Hard-coral
reef. This is cheaper and more convenient than a boat dive, and gives structures on sheltered thilas and giris suffered most from the 1998 coral
divers a chance to get really well acquainted with the reef. House reefs bleaching, and have been the slowest to recover.
 66 DIVING •• Top Diving Sites www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com DIVING •• Equipment 67

Wrecks standards, good equipment and extremely pleasant conditions. On the

While many ships have foundered on Maldivian reefs over the centuries, other hand, if you do a course at home you’ll have more time for diving
there are few accessible wrecks with any historical interest. Most were on when you get to the Maldives.
outer-reef slopes and broke up in the surf long ago, leaving remnants to We recommend all learner divers do an open-water referral course in
be dispersed and covered in coral. Any wreck sites of historical signifi- their home country (ie all the theory and basics in the pool), allowing
cance will require special permission to dive. The wrecks you can dive you to complete the course in the Maldives in just two days rather than
at are mostly inside the atolls and not very old. They are interesting for the four or five needed for the full course. After all, you didn’t fly half
the coral and other marine life that colonises the hulk within just a few way around the world to sit in a room watching a PADI CD-ROM, did
years. Quite a few of the wrecks have been sunk deliberately, to provide you? If you do this, ensure you have all your certification from the referral
an attraction for divers. course with you, otherwise you’ll have to start from scratch.
An introductory dive, including equipment, will cost about US$30,
TOP DIVING SITES which is sometimes credited towards a proper course if you decide to do
Some of the better-known dive sites are described in the chapters cover- so. Some resorts offer a free introductory dive to get you in.
ing each atoll and marked on the maps. For examples of the different If you’re at all serious about diving, you should do an open-water
‘If you’re at types of dive sites, look up the following. course. This requires nine dives, usually five in sheltered water and
all serious four in open water, as well as classroom training and completion of
Dive Atoll Dive type Page a multiple-choice test. The cost in the Maldives is from US$450 to
about US$650. Sometimes the price is all-inclusive, but there are often a few
diving, you British Loyalty Addu wreck 168 extra charges – US$12 for each boat trip, US$50 for equipment hire,
should do Dhidhdhoo Beyru Ari outer reef 138 US$80 for logbooks, certificates, dive tables, course materials, 10%
Embudhoo Express South Male’ kandu 128 service charge etc. These can really add up. You could do the course
an open- Fish Head Ari thila & giri 137 in as little as five days, or take your time and spread it over a week or
water Guraidhoo Kandu South Male’ kandu 128 two. Don’t try it on a one-week package – transfers and jet lag will
course.’ Halaveli Wreck Ari wreck 137 take a day or so, and you shouldn’t dive less than 24 hours before a
Helengeli Thila North Male’ thila & giri 107 plane flight. Besides, you’ll want to do some recreational dives to try
HP Reef North Male’ thila & giri 107 out your new skills.
Kakani Thila North Male’ thila 153 The next stage is an advanced open-water course, which will involve
Maa Kandu & Kuda Kandu Addu kandu 168 five dives (including one night dive), and will cost from US$280 to
Maayafushi Thila Ari thila & giri 137 US$400, depending on the dive school. Then there are the speciality
Bodu Hithi Thila North Male’ thila 107 courses in night diving, rescue diving, wreck diving, nitrox diving and
Shark Point Addu outer reef 168 so on. ‘It’s best to
have your
DIVING SEASONS Dive Schools & Operators own mask,
January to April are generally considered the best months for diving, Every resort has a professional diving operation and can run courses for
and should have fine weather and good visibility. May and June can have beginners, as well as dive trips and courses that will challenge even the snorkel and
unstable weather – storms and cloudy days are common until September. most experienced diver. The government requires that all dive operations fins, which
October and November tend to have calmer, clearer weather, but visibil- maintain high standards, and all of them are affiliated with one or more
ity can be slightly reduced because of abundant plankton in the water. of the international diving accreditation organisations – most are with
you can also
Some divers like this period because many large fish, such as whale sharks diving behemoth PADI. use for
and mantas, come into the channels to feed on the plankton. December snorkelling.’
can have rough, windy weather and rain. Certificates
When you complete an open-water course, you receive a certificate that
LEARNING TO DIVE is recognised by diving operators all over the world. Certificates in the
Diving is not difficult, but it requires knowledge and care, and a lot of Maldives are generally issued by the Professional Association of Diving
experience before you can safely dive independently. It doesn’t require Instructors (PADI), the largest and the best-known organisation, but
great strength or fitness although if you can do things with minimum certificates from Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques
expenditure of energy, your tank of air will last longer. An experienced (CMAS; World Underwater Federation), Scuba Schools International
diver will use much less air than a beginner. Women often have an ad- (SSI) and a number of other organisations are quite acceptable.
vantage because they don’t breathe as much air as men.
There’s a range of courses, from an introductory dive in a pool or EQUIPMENT
lagoon, to an open-water course that gives an internationally recognised Dive schools in the Maldives can rent out all diving gear, but most divers
qualification (usually PADI). Beyond that, there are advanced and speci- prefer to have at least some of their own equipment. It’s best to have your
ality courses, and courses that lead to divemaster and instructor qualifi- own mask, snorkel and fins, which you can also use for snorkelling. The
cations. Courses in the Maldives are not a bargain, but they’re no more tank and weight belt are always included in the cost of a dive, so you don’t
expensive than learning at home and this way you are assured of high need to bring them – sealed tanks are prohibited on aircraft anyway, and
68 DIVING •• Diving Costs www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I V I N G • • D i v i n g H e a l t h & S a fe t y 69

you’d be crazy to carry lead weights. The main pieces of diving equipment DIVING HEALTH & SAFETY
to bring with you are described in the following sections. Health Requirements
Officially, a doctor should check you over before you do a course, and
Wetsuit fill out a form full of diving health questions (see p187). In practice,
The water may be warm (27°C to 30°C) but a wetsuit is often prefer- most dive schools will let you dive or do a course if you’re under 50
able for comfortable diving. A 3mm suit should be adequate, but 5mm years old and complete a medical questionnaire, but the checkup is still
is preferable if you want to go deep or dive more than once per day. a good idea. This is especially so if you have any problem at all with
Some resorts don’t have a good selection of wetsuits for rental, so this is your breathing, ears or sinuses. If you are an asthmatic, have any other
a good item to bring if you can. When dive centres say ‘full equipment chronic breathing difficulties, or any inner-ear problems you shouldn’t
rental’, that doesn’t usually include a wetsuit. Renting a suit will cost do any scuba diving.
about US$5 per day. It’s possible to dive in a T-shirt if you don’t feel the
cold too much. Diving Safely
In the Maldives the dive base will ensure you are aware of the following
Regulator points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience, whether scuba diving,
Many divers have their own regulator, with which they are familiar and skin diving or snorkelling:
therefore confident about using, and a ‘reg’ is not cumbersome to carry. If you are scuba diving, you must possess a current diving certification
‘The cost of Rental will cost from US$3 to US$7 per dive. card from a recognised scuba diving instructional agency. The resort
diving var- dive base will check your card and provide training if you need it. A
Buoyancy Control Device check dive is often required.
ies between These are readily available for hire, costing US$3 to US$7 per dive, but Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable diving.
resorts, and bring your own if possible. Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental condi-
depends on tions at the dive site. The dive base will always provide this.
Depth Gauge, Tank Pressure Gauge & Timer Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and
whether you These are usually available too, but if you have them, bring them. the environment.
need to rent Dive only at sites within your experience level.
equipment.’ Dive Computer
Universally used over dive tables, these are now compulsory in the Mal- Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one site to
dives. They’re available for rent, for US$4 to US$7 per dive. another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive condi-
tions. These differences influence the way divers dress for a dive and what ‘Be aware
Logbook diving techniques they use. that under-
You’ll need this to indicate to divemasters your level of experience, and The following laws apply to recreational diving in the Maldives, and water condi-
to record your latest dives. You can usually buy them for around US$10 divemasters should enforce them:
at dive schools. Maximum depth is 30m – this is the law in the Maldives. tions vary
Other items you might need are an underwater torch (especially for Maximum time is 60 minutes. significantly
cave and night dives), waterproof camera, compass and safety buoy or No decompression dives. from one
balloon, most of which are available for rental. Some things you won’t Each diver must carry a dive computer.
need are a spear gun, which is prohibited, and diving gloves, which are Obligatory three-minute safety stop at 5m. site to
discouraged since you’re not supposed to touch anything anyway. Last dive no later than 12 hours before a flight. another.’
DIVING COSTS Decompression Sickness
The cost of diving varies between resorts, and depends on whether This is a very serious condition – usually, though not always, associated
you need to rent equipment. A single dive, with only tank and weights with diver error. The most common symptoms are unusual fatigue or
supplied, runs from US$30 to US$70, but is generally around US$35 weakness; skin itch; pain in the arms, legs (joints or mid-limb) or torso;
or US$40 (night dives cost more). If you need to rent a regulator and dizziness and vertigo; local numbness, tingling or paralysis; and shortness
a BCD as well, a dive will cost from US$40 to US$80. Sometimes the of breath. Signs may also include a blotchy skin rash, a tendency to favour
full equipment price includes mask, snorkel, fins, dive computer and an arm or a leg, staggering, coughing spasms, collapse or unconscious-
pressure gauge, but they can cost extra. A package of 10 dives will cost ness. These symptoms and signs can occur individually, or a number of
roughly from US$250 to US$350, or US$350 to US$450 with equipment them can appear at one time.
rental. Other possibilities are five-, 12- and 15-dive packages, and pack- The most common causes of decompression sickness (or ‘the bends’ as
ages that allow you as many dives as you want within a certain number of it is commonly known) are diving too deep, staying at depth for too long,
consecutive days. In addition to the dive cost, there is a charge for using or ascending too quickly. This results in nitrogen coming out of solution
a boat – about US$12 for half a day, US$20 for a full day. There may also in the blood and forming bubbles, most commonly in the bones and
be a service charge of 10% if diving is billed to your room. particularly in the joints or in weak spots such as healed fracture sites.
If you plan to do 10 dives in a week, budget around US$600, perhaps Other factors contributing to decompression sickness include excess
US$100 or US$150 less if you bring all your own equipment. body fat; heavy exertion prior to, during and after diving; injuries and
70 D I V I N G • • D i v i n g H e a l t h & S a fe t y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com DIVING •• Marine Environment Protection 71

illness; dehydration; alcohol; cold water, hot showers or baths after div- MARINE ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION
ing; carbon dioxide increase (eg through smoking); and age. The waters of the Maldives may seem pristine but, like everywhere, devel-
Avoid flying after diving, as it causes nitrogen to come out of the opment and commercial activities can have adverse effects on the marine
blood even faster than it would at sea level. No resort in the Maldives environment. The Maldivian government recognises that the underwater
will allow you to dive less than 24 hours before a flight. Low-altitude world is a major attraction, and has imposed many restrictions and
flights, like a seaplane transfer to the airport, may be just as dangerous controls on fishing, coral mining and tourism operations. Twenty-five
because the aircraft are not pressurised. There are various opinions Protected Marine Areas have been established, and these are subject to
about the risks and the time required to minimise them – a lot de- special controls.
‘Visitors pends on the frequency, depth and duration of dives over several days You’ll find dive operators throughout the country are overwhelmingly
must do before the flight. Seek the advice of an instructor when planning the conservation-minded too, which is a fantastic development. Diving tech-
dives during the final few days of your stay, and try to finish up with niques have been modified to protect the environment, and operators
their best to shallow dives. now use drift diving or tie mooring ropes by hand rather than drop
ensure that Even if you take all the necessary precautions, there is no guarantee anchors. The practice of feeding fish has been abandoned, and most op-
their activi- that you will not be hit by the bends. It’s a diver’s responsibility to be erators are careful to ensure that unskilled divers are not taken on dives
aware of their own condition, and that of their diving buddy, after a where they may accidentally damage coral.
ties don’t dive. Visitors must do their best to ensure that their activities don’t spoil
spoil the ex- The only treatment for decompression sickness is to put the patient the experience of those who will come in the future. The following rules
perience of into a recompression chamber. That puts a person back under pressure are generally accepted as necessary for conservation, and most of them
similar to that of the depth at which they were diving so nitrogen bubbles apply equally to snorkellers and divers.
those who can be reabsorbed. The time required in the chamber is usually three to Do not use anchors on the reef, and take care not to ground boats
will come in eight hours. The treatment is usually effective, with the main problem on coral. Encourage dive operators and regulatory bodies to establish
the future.’ being caused by delay in getting the patient to the chamber. If you think permanent moorings at popular dive sites.
that you, or anyone else you are diving with, are suffering from the bends, Avoid touching living marine organisms with your body or dragging
get to a recompression chamber as soon as possible; there are two in the equipment across the reef. Polyps can be damaged by even the gentlest
Maldives, at Bandos and Kuramathi resorts. contact. Handling fish can remove the slimy coating that protects the
animal’s skin.
Ear Problems Never stand on corals, even if they look solid and robust. If you must
Many divers experience pain in the ears after diving, which is commonly hold on, to prevent being swept away in a current, hold on to dead ‘It’s true that
caused by failure of the ears to compensate properly for changes in pres- coral. coral bleach-
sure. The problem will usually fix itself, but injuries are often caused Be conscious of your fins. Even without contact the surge from heavy ing killed
when people try to treat themselves by poking cotton buds or other fin strokes near the reef can damage delicate organisms. When tread-
objects into the ear. ing water in shallow reef areas, take care not to kick up clouds of sand. nearly all
Settling sand can easily smother the delicate organisms of the reef. of the hard
Emergencies Collecting lobster or shellfish is prohibited, as is spearfishing. Remov- coral in the
The Divers Alert Network (DAN; in USA %919-684-8111; www.diversalertnetwork.org) ing any coral or shells, living or dead, is against the law. All shipwreck
operates a 24-hour diving emergency hotline in the USA. DAN Maldives sites are protected by law. Maldives,
(%6640088) is based at Bandos resort, on North Male’ Atoll, where there’s Take home all your rubbish and any litter you may find as well. Plastics but that’s
a recompression chamber and a complete divers health service. There’s in particular are a serious threat to marine life. Turtles can mistake not the end
also a new recompression facility and fully staffed diving clinic at Kuram- plastic for jellyfish and eat it. Don’t throw cigarette butts overboard.
athi (%6660527), in Rasdhoo Atoll at the far north of Ari Atoll. They are Resist the temptation to feed fish. You may disturb their normal eat- of the story.’
both commercial facilities. ing habits, encourage aggressive behaviour or feed them food that is
detrimental to their health.
Insurance Minimise your disturbance of marine animals. Chasing, grabbing or
In addition to normal travel insurance, it’s a very good idea to take out attempting to ride on turtles, mantas or any large marine animal can
specific diving cover, which will pay for evacuation to a recompression frighten them and deter them from visiting a dive site.
facility and the cost of hyperbaric treatment in a chamber. Evacuation Practise and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be
would normally be by chartered speedboat or seaplane (both very done by divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef. Make
expensive). Recompression treatment can cost thousands of dollars, sure you are correctly weighted and that your weight belt is positioned
especially since time required in the chamber could reach eight hours. so that you stay horizontal. If you have not dived for a while, have a
Some dive operations insist on diving insurance, or will provide it practice dive in a pool or lagoon before taking to the reef.
for about US$10 for three weeks. Others may include the coverage in Take great care in underwater caves. Spend as little time within them
their rates. as possible as your air bubbles may be caught within the roof and
DAN (www.diveralertnetwork.org) can be contacted through most dive shops thereby leave previously submerged organisms high and dry. Taking
and clubs, and it offers a DAN TravelAssist policy that provides evacua- turns to inspect the interior of a small cave will lessen the chances of
tion and recompression coverage. damaging contact.
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BACK FROM THE BLEACHING (Continued from page 72)

It’s true that coral bleaching killed nearly all of the hard coral in the
Maldives, but that’s not the end of the story. In a few places old coral has Butterflyfish
unaccountably survived, and you can occasionally be surprised by a big- There are over 30 species in the Maldives; they are common in shallow
table coral or a long-branching staghorn. Soft corals and sea fans were less waters and reef slopes, singly, in pairs or small schools. Species vary
affected by coral bleaching and have regrown more quickly. Magnificent in size from 12cm to 30cm, when mature, with a flattened body shape
soft-coral gardens thrive at many dive sites, especially around channels and elaborate markings. Various species of this carnivorous fish have
that are rich with water-borne nutrients, and a few fine specimens can be specialised food sources, including anemones, coral polyps, algae and
seen at snorkelling depths on many house reefs. assorted invertebrate prey. Bennett’s butterflyfish (p75), bright yellow
The underlying hard-coral structure is still there of course – new and 18cm long, is one of several species with a ‘false eye’ near the tail
coral grows on the skeletons of its predecessors. The healthiest living to make predators think it’s a larger fish facing the other way. Spotted
coral has many metres, perhaps kilometres, of dead coral underneath. butterflyfish, which grow to 10cm long, are camouflaged with dark polka
New coral is growing on reefs all over the Maldives, though the large dots and a dark band across its real eye. Anemonefish are so
and elaborately shaped formations will take many years to build. It’s called as they cover
fascinating to observe the new coral growth – the distinctly coloured Anemonefish themselves in a
patches with the finely textured surface of a living, growing organ- Maldives anemonefish (p74) are indigenous to the Maldives. They are special mucous from the
ism. The first regrowth often occurs in crevices on old coral blocks, around 11cm, orange, dusky orange or yellow, with differences in face col- anemone, which protects
where it’s protected from munching parrotfish. The massive Porites-type our and the shape and thickness of the head bar marking. Their mucous them from its sting.
The sea snake is an
corals seem to come first, but they grow slowly – look for blobs of yellow, coating protects them from the venomous tips of sea anemone tentacles,
air-breathing reptile
blue or purple that will eventually cover the whole block in a crust or a allowing them to hide from predators among the anemones’ tentacles. In
with venom 20 times
cushion or a brainlike dome. The branching corals (Acropora) appear as return for this protection, they warn the anemones of the approach of fish
stronger than any snake
little purplish trees on a coral block, like a pale piece of broccoli. Growing such as butterflyfish, which feed on the tentacle tips. Juveniles are lighter
on land. Basically, don’t
a few centimetres per year (15cm in ideal conditions), they will eventually in colour than adults, and have greyish or blackish pelvic fins.
touch them if you’re lucky
become big, extended staghorn corals or wide, flat-topped tables.
enough to see any!
The recovery for coral is not uniform. Some parts of a reef can be doing Flutemouth
very well, with 80% or 90% of the old surfaces covered with new and One species of flutemouth (or cornetfish; p75) is very common in shal-
growing coral, while 100m along the same reef, new coral growth cover low waters in the Maldives, often occurring in small schools. They are
is less than 20%. Reef formation is a very complex natural process, but very slender, elongated fish, usually around 60cm in length, but deep-sea
surprisingly the marine ecosystem as a whole seems to be undamaged by specimens grow up to 1.5m. Flutemouths eat small fish, often stalking
the coral bleaching. Fish life is as abundant and diverse as ever. prey by swimming behind a harmless herbivore. The silver colouring
seems almost transparent in the water, and it can be hard to spot flute-
FISH-SPOTTER’S GUIDE mouths even in shallow sandy lagoons.
You don’t have to be a hardcore diver to enjoy the rich marine life of the
Maldives. You’ll see an amazing variety just snorkelling, walking in the Moorish Idol
shallows, peering off the end of a jetty. This guide will help you identify One species of moorish idol (p74) is commonly seen on reef flats and
a few of the most colourful and conspicuous varieties; see the colour reef slopes in the Maldives, often in pairs. Usually 15cm to 20cm long,
pictures from p74. A point to remember is that even within the same the moorish idol is herbivorous, feeding primarily on algae. They are
species, colour and patterning can vary greatly over a fish’s life cycle, as attractive, with broad vertical yellow-and-black bands, pointed snouts, Young male anemone-
well as according to gender. and long, streamer-like extensions to the upper dorsal fin. fish living within the
For a comprehensive online guide to the fish of the Maldives, visit anemone are under
www.popweb.com/maldive. Sweetlips the control of a single
Only a few of the many species are found in the Maldives, where they inhabit dominant female. When
Angelfish outer-reef slopes. Some species grow up to 1m, but most are between 50cm she dies the largest
Of the many species, there are 14 in the Maldives, mostly seen in shal- and 75cm; juveniles are largely herbivorous, feeding on algae, plankton male fish changes sex
low water, though some inhabit reef slopes down to 20m. They can be and other small organisms; older fish hunt and eat smaller fish. Oriental and replaces her as the
seen individually or in small groups. Small species are around 10cm, the sweetlips (p75), which grow to 50cm, are superb-looking with horizontal dominant female.
largest around 35cm. They feed on sponges and algae. Regal (or empress) dark and light stripes, dark spots on fins and tail, and large, lugubrious lips.
angelfish have bright yellow bodies with vertical dark blue and white Brown sweetlips are generally bigger, duller and more active at night.
stripes. The emperor, or imperial, angelfish (p75) are larger (to 35cm)
and live in deeper water, with almost horizontal blue-and-yellow lines Parrotfish
and a dark blue mask and gill markings; juveniles are quite different More than 20 of the many parrotfish species are found in the Maldives –
in shape and markings. The shy blue-faced angelfish (p75) also change they include some of the most conspicuous and commonly seen reef fish.
colour dramatically as they age. The largest species grow to more than a metre, but those around 50cm
long are more typical. Most parrotfish feed on algae and other organisms
(Continued on page 77) growing on and around a hard-coral structure. With strong, beaklike
 78 D I V I N G • • Fi s h - S p o t t e r ’ s G u i d e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com SURFING 79

mouths they scrape and bite the coral surface, then grind up the coral cuts, and can cause nasty injuries. Over 20 species of surgeon, including
chunks, swallowing and filtering to extract nutrients. Snorkellers often the powder-blue surgeon (p75), are found in the Maldives, often in large
hear the scraping, grinding sound of parrotfish eating coral, and notice schools. The adults range from 20cm to 60cm. All species graze for algae
the clouds of coral-sand faeces that parrotfish regularly discharge. Colour, on the sea bottom or on coral surfaces.
pattern and even sex can change as parrotfish mature – juveniles and fe-
males are often drab, while mature males can have brilliant blue-green de- Triggerfish
signs. Bicolour parrotfish (p74) start life white with a broad orange stripe, There are over a dozen species in the Maldives, on outer-reef slopes
but the mature males (up to 90cm) are a beautiful blue with hot-pink and also in shallower reef environments. Small species grow to around
highlights on the scale edges, head, fins and tail. Green-face parrotfish 25cm and the largest species to over 75cm. Triggerfish are carnivorous.
grow to 60cm, with the adult male identified by its blue-green body, bright Orange-striped triggerfish (30cm) are common in shallow reef waters.
green ‘face’ and white marks on fins and tail. Heavybeak (or steephead) Titan triggerfish have yellow and dark-brown crisscross patterning, grow
parrotfish can be 70cm long, and have a distinctive rounded head. up to 75cm and can be aggressive, especially when defending eggs, and Male and female shark
will charge at divers. The clown triggerfish (up to 40cm; p74) is easily populations live in same-
Snapper recognised by its conspicuous colour pattern with large, round, white sex groups and rarely
There are 28 species of snapper that have been documented in the Mal- blotches on the lower half of the body. meet, save for mating.
dives, mostly in deep water. Small species are around 20cm and the largest
grow to 1m (snapper, themselves carnivorous, are popular with anglers Unicornfish
as a fighting fish, and are excellent to eat). Blue-striped snapper (p74), From the same family as the surgeonfish, unicornfish grow from 40cm to
commonly seen in schools near inshore reefs, are an attractive yellow 75cm long (only males of some species have the horn for which the spe-
with blue-white horizontal stripes. Red snapper (or red bass) are often cies is named), and are herbivores. Spotted unicornfish are very common
seen in lagoons. blue-grey or olive-brown fish with narrow dotted vertical markings (males
can change their colours for display, and exhibit a broad white vertical
Rock Cod band); their prominent horns get longer with age. Bignose unicornfish (or
Hundreds of species are currently classified as Serranidae, including rock Vlaming’s unicorn; p75) have only a nose bump for a horn.
cod and groper which are common around reefs. Smaller species reach
Male sharks show their 20cm; many larger species grow to 50cm and some to over a metre. Rock Wrasse
interest in females by cod are carnivorous, feeding on smaller fish and invertebrates. Vermil- Some 60 species of this large and very diverse family can be found,
biting them on the sides, lion rock cod (or coral groper; p74) are often seen in shallow waters and some on reefs, others on sandy lagoon floors, others in open water. The
often causing wounds, near the coral formations in which they hide; they are a brilliant crimson smallest wrasse species are only 10cm; the largest over 2m. Most wrasse
even though the female colour covered with blue spots, up to 40cm long. are carnivores; larger wrasse will hunt and eat small fish. Napoleonfish
shark skin has evolved to (also called Napoleon wrasse and humphead wrasse; p75) are the larg-
be thicker than the male Stingray est wrasse species, often seen around wrecks and outer-reef slopes; they
equivalent! Several species, such as the black-spotted stingray (p75) are often seen are generally green with fine vertical patterning. Large males have a
in very shallow water on the sandy bed of a lagoon where they are often humped head.
well camouflaged. Most rays seen inshore are juveniles, up to about Moon wrasse, about 25cm, live in shallow waters and reef slopes, where
50cm across; mature rays can be over a metre across, and maybe 2m adult males are beautifully coloured in green with pink patterning and a
long including the whiplike tail. A barbed and venomous spine on top yellow marking on the tail. Cleaner wrasse have a symbiotic relationship
of the tail can swing up and forward, and will deliver a painful injury to with larger fish, which allows the wrasse to eat the small parasites and
anyone who stands on it. food scraps from their mouths, gills and skin surface. At certain times,
large numbers of pelagic species congregate at ‘cleaning stations’ where
Reef shark cleaner wrasse abound – a great sight for divers.
Several smaller shark species frequent reef flats and reef edges inside Maldi-
vian atolls, often in schools, while larger pelagic species congregate around
channels in the atoll rim at certain times of the year. Most reef species are
small, typically 1m to 2m. Reef sharks hunt small fish (attacks on swim-
SURFING
mers and divers are almost unknown). White-tips grow from 1m to 2m Surfing has been slow to take off in the Maldives, but its popularity is
long and have white tips on dorsal fins. They are often seen in schools of on the increase, especially since the O’Neil Deep Blue Contest was held
10 or more in the sandy shallows of a lagoon. Black-tips, distinguished by at Lohifushi in 2005. There’s some great surf throughout the country
tips on dorsal fins and tail, grow to 2m. Grey reef sharks (p74) are thicker although only a few breaks are in the tourism zone, and they are only
in the midsection and have a white trailing edge on the dorsal fin. surfable from March to November. Surfers have a choice of basing them-
selves at a resort and taking a boat to nearby breaks, or arranging a live-
Surgeonfish aboard safari cruise. In either case, make arrangements in advance with
The surgeonfish are so named for the tiny scalpel-sharp blades that are a reputable surf travel operator who knows the area well. The Maldives
found on the sides of their bodies, near their tails. When they are threat- is definitely not the sort of place where a surfer can just turn up and
ened they will swim beside the intruder swinging their tails to inflict head for the waves.
 80 SURFING •• Nor th Male’ Atoll www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com SURFING •• South Male’ Atoll 81

The period of the southwest monsoon (May to November) generates Chickens A left-hander that sections when small, but on a bigger swell and a higher tide it all
the best waves, but March and April are also good and have the best comes together to make a long and satisfying wave. It’s named for the old poultry farm onshore,
weather. June can have bad weather and storms, and is not great for not because of any reaction to the conditions here.
boat trips, but it is also a time for big swells. The best breaks occur on Cola’s A heavy, hollow, shallow right-hander; when it’s big, it’s one of the best breaks in the area.
the outer reefs on the southeast sides of the atolls, but only where a gap This is a very thick wave breaking hard over a shallow reef, so it’s definitely for experienced, gutsy
in the reef allows the waves to wrap around. surfers only. Named for the Coca-Cola factory nearby on the island of Thulusdhoo, it’s also called
Surfing in the Maldives was pioneered by Tony Hussein (also known Cokes.
Guided seaplane surfaris as Tony Hinde), a Sydney surfer who was shipwrecked in the Maldives in Lohi’s A solid left-hander that usually breaks in two sections, but with a big enough swell and a
the early 1970s. Before the first tourist resorts were opened, he discovered, high enough tide the sections link up. You can paddle out there from the resort island of Lohifushi,

ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ
around the Maldives are
offered year round surfed and named all the main breaks, and had them all to himself for and guests of that resort have exclusive access to the break.
by Tropicsurf (www many years. Surfing has caught on with many young Maldivians – check Piddlies A slow, mellow, mushy right-hander, a good Malibu wave. It’s also called Ninja’s because
.tropicsurf.net) in the local surf scene at www.maldivesurf.org.mv. of its appeal to Japanese surfers. It’s off the island of Kanifinolhu, home of the Club Med Kani
Australia. Spot the best resort, but it’s very difficult to reach from the shore, and the wave is available to any boat-based
surf from the sky, land NORTH MALE’ ATOLL surfer, not just Club Med guests.
and you’re surfing in This is where the best-known breaks are, and they can get a bit crowded, Pasta Point A perfect left that works like clockwork on all tides. There’s a long outside wall at

ὄὄὄ ὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
minutes. especially if there are several safari boats in the vicinity. The following the take-off point, jacking into a bowling section called the ‘macaroni bowl’. On big days the break
breaks are listed from north to south. continues to another section called ‘lock jaws’, which grinds into very shallow water over the reef.
It’s easily reached from the shore at Dhonveli Beach resort, whose guests have exclusive use of this
SURF BREAKS 0 10 km break. This used to be an all-Italian resort (hence the name of the break), but now it also attracts
0 6 miles
surfers from all over.
Thulusdhoo
A B C Sultan’s This is a classic right-hand break, and the bigger the swell, the better it works. A steep

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄ
Nakachchaafushi
2 outside peak leads to a super-fast wall and then an inside section that throws right out, and tubes
Protected
Kanifinolhu
14
17 1
on every wave. ‘The most
Marine Area Kanuhuraa
1 16
7
Huraa
5
Honky’s During its season, this is the best wave in the Maldives. It’s a super long, wally left-hander accessible
Girifushi 15
Vabbinfaru
that wraps nearly 90 degrees and can nearly double in size by the end section. surf breaks
Ihuru 6
4
Thaburudhoo Jailbreaks A right-hander that works best with a big swell, when the three sections combine to
Baros 3 8 make a single, long, perfect wave. There used to be a prison on the island and the surrounding are in the
waters were off-limits, but now it’s open to surfers. southeast-

ὄ ὄ
Kudabados
Protected NORTH MALE' ATOLL ern part of
Marine Area SOUTH MALE’ ATOLL
Protected The breaks in South Male’ Atoll are smaller than those in North Male’ North Male’
Marine Area
Hulhumale' Atoll and generally more fickle. It will be harder here to find a boatman Atoll.’
INDIAN
2 Giraavaru who really knows the surf scene.
Hulhule' Male' International Airport
OCEAN Guru’s A nice little left off the island of Gulhi; it can get good sometimes.

ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄὄ
Viligili
KAAFU MALE' Quarters Another small right-hander, rarely more than a metre.
Protected
Kate’s A small left-hander, rarely more than a metre.
Marine Areas Vaadhoo Kandu Natives A small right-hander, rarely more than a metre.
Last Stops This is a bowly right-hander breaking over a channel reef. It’s a Protected Marine Area,
Velassaru Vaadhoo
and can get very strong currents when the tides are running.
Embudhu Finolhu

ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Bolifushi
Emboodhoo
Protected
Marine Area
NORTH MALE' ATOLL
Chickens...............................1 C1
OUTER ATOLLS
3 Cola's...................................2 C1 Only a few areas have the right combination of reef topography and
Honky's................................3
Jailbreaks..............................4
B1
B1
orientation to swell and wind direction. Laamu and Addu both have
Lohi's....................................5 C1 surfable waves on occasions, but they’re not reliable enough to be worth
Pasta Point...........................6 C1
Piddlies.................................7 C1
a special trip.
Sultan's.................................8 B1 Gaaf Dhaal has a series of reliable breaks that are accessed by safari boats
SOUTH MALE' ATOLL
in the season. From west to east, the named breaks are Beacons, Castaways,
Gulhi 9 Guru's..................................9 B4 Blue Bowls, Five Islands, Two Ways (also called Twin Peaks; left and right),
Kate's.................................10 B4
13
Last Stops...........................11 A4 Love Charms, Antiques and Tiger. They’re all outside the tourism zone and
10 Veliganduhuraa Natives...............................12 B4 can only be visited with permits from Atolls Administration.
Quarters.............................13 B4
4
Maafushi RESORTS
Club Med Kani...................14 B1
RESORT-BASED SURFING
Biyadhoo
Viligilivaru
SOUTH MALE' ATOLL
Dhonveli Beach...................15 B1 The most accessible surf breaks are in the southeastern part of North Male’
Rannalhi Guraidhoo
Kadoomafushi
12
Four Seasons Kuda Huraa...16
Lohifushi Island Resort........17
B1
C1
Atoll. Half a dozen resorts are within a short boat ride, but only a couple
Protected Marine Area 11 of them cater for surfers by providing regular boat service to the waves.
82 SURFING •• Sur fing Safaris www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com SURFING •• Sur f Travel Operators 83

Dhonveli Beach (p112) is the resort that’s best set up for surfers – the SURF TRAVEL OPERATORS
reliable waves of the ‘house break’, Pasta Point, are just out the back door, The following agents specialise in surf travel and book tours and safaris
while Sultan’s and Honky’s are close by. A surfside bar provides a great to the Maldives.
view of the action. Surfing packages at Dhonveli Beach include unlim- Atoll Travel (%1800-622310, 03-5682 1088; www.atolltravel.com; PO Box 205, Foster, Vic
ited boat trips to the other local breaks with surf guides who know the 3960, Australia) Australian and international agent for Atoll Adventures. It offers surfing packages
conditions well, leaving and returning on demand. The surf programme to Dhonveli Beach resort, premium surfing safari tours in Male’ Atoll and to the outer atolls.
is run by Atoll Adventures under the direction of Maldives surf pioneer Maldives Scuba Tours (%01449-780220; www.scubascuba.com; Walsham Rd, Finningham,
Tony Hussein and can be booked only through a limited number of surf Suffolk, IP14 4JGPH, UK) Maldives dive travel agency and UK agent for Atoll Adventures.
travel agents. Surf Travel Company (%02-9527 4722; www.surftravel.com.au; PO Box 446, Cronulla, NSW
Lohifushi (p109), a few kilometres northeast of Dhonveli, is a bigger, 2230, Australia) Venerable surf travel operator; it books surfers into Lohifushi resort and does
more expensive resort with more facilities and it also has its own, ex- boat-based tours in North and South Male’ Atolls.
clusive surf break at the southern tip of the island. A bar and a viewing Turquoise Surf Travel (%04 72 44 29 10; www.turquoise-voyages.fr; 8 rue Neuve St Martin,
‘A one-week terrace overlook the wave, which has hosted international surfing com- Marseille, France) This agent offers surfing holidays at Lohifushi Island Resort and boat-based
inner-atoll petitions. Most of the rooms are quite a long walk from the surf. Boats surfari trips in Male’ Atoll.
surf trip to other surf breaks go for three-hour sessions, one leaving at about 9am, World Surfaris (%1800-611163, 07-5444 4011; www.worldsurfaris.com; PO Box 180, Ste 8,
the other at about 2pm (US$10 per person for three hours, extra hours 47 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba, Qld 4557, Australia) Offering tours to various surfing destinations, it
will start US$2 per person). Boat trips must be booked by 8pm the day before. books surfers into Lohifushi Island Resort and also does boat-based trips in the inner atolls.
at around Many agents and tour companies sell rooms in Lohifushi.
US$850 per Club Med Kani (p114) is the other resort island with an adjacent surf
break, but you need a boat to reach it from the resort. There’s no surfing
person.’ programme, no surf guides and no boats available for surfers. When Four
Seasons Kuda Huraa reopens, it will probably run boat trips to the surf
for guests, but surfers should confirm this with the resort.

SURFING SAFARIS
Most of the safari boats in the Maldives claim to do surfing trips, but
very few of them have a specialised knowledge of surfing or any expe-
rience cruising to the outer atolls. Ideally, a surfing safari boat should
have an experienced surf guide, and a second, smaller boat to accom-
pany it, for accessing breaks in shallower water and getting in close
to the waves. A surfing safari (‘surfari’) boat should also be equipped
with fishing and snorkelling gear, for when the surf isn’t working or
you need a rest.
An inner-atolls surfari will just cruise around North Male’ Atoll, visit-
ing breaks that are also accessible from resorts in the area. If the swell
is big and the surf guide is knowledgeable, the boat may venture down
to South Male’ Atoll to take advantage of the conditions. A one-week
inner-atoll surf trip will start at around US$850 per person. This might
be cheaper than resort-based surfing, but it won’t be as comfortable, and
it won’t give access to a handy and uncrowded house break.
An outer-atolls surfari is the only feasible way to surf the remote
waves of Gaaf Dhaal – an experienced outer-atoll guide is essential.
Ideally, the safari boat should be based in Gaaf Dhaal, and the surfers
take an Island Aviation flight to the domestic airport on the island of
Kaadedhoo where the boat crew meets them. This requires good coord-
ination and management, but the experienced surfing tour operators
have the procedure well organised. They should also have a good rela-
tionship with Atolls Administration, so that they can get the necessary
permits before you arrive.
You need at least six people to make a safari boat affordable; the surf-
ing specialists should be able to put together the necessary numbers.
Don’t book into a safari trip that is primarily for diving or cruising. Allow
at least two weeks for the trip or you’ll spend too much of your time
getting to the waves and back. A 10-night surfari will cost from about
US$2000 per person, including domestic airfares.
 84 www.lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks 85

Food & Drink TRAVEL YOUR TASTEBUDS

If you are feeling like trying something both exotic and dear to the Maldivian people, go for
miruhulee boava (octopus tentacles). This is not commonly found, but is often prepared in the
Your culinary experience in the Maldives could be, depending on your re- atolls as a speciality, should you be lucky enough to visit an inhabited island as a guest. The
sort, anything from haute cuisine ordered from a menu you’ve discussed tentacles are stripped and cleaned and braised in a sauce of curry leaves, cloves, garlic, chilli,
with the chef in advance, to bangers and mash at the all-you-can-eat onion, pepper and coconut oil – delicious.
Don’t be fooled by buffet in the communal dining room. What it’s unlikely to be in either
beer in Male’ – it’s all case is particularly Maldivian, given the dislocation from local life experi-
nonalcoholic, even if it enced in resorts. However, anyone staying in Male’ or visiting inhabited soup made from dried and smoked fish, often eaten with rice, lime and
doesn’t look it! islands should take advantage of this opportunity to try real Maldivian chilli. The soup is poured over rice, mixed up by hand and eaten with the
food (rather than the somewhat fanciful fare produced on Maldivian fingers. Another common meal is mas riha, a fish curry eaten with rice
cuisine nights in resorts, which often owes more to Indian and Sri Lankan or roshi – the roshi is torn into strips, mixed on the plate with the curry
cooking than anything local). Maldivian cuisine is unsurprisingly simple and condiments, and eaten with the fingers. A cup of tea accompanies
and testament to a nation’s historic survival on a relatively small, but the meal, and is usually drunk black and sweet.
bountiful, amount of locally occurring ingredients. The Maldivian equivalent of the after-dinner mint is the areca nut,
chewed after a meal or snack. The little oval nuts are sliced into thin sec-
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES tions, some cloves and lime paste are added, the whole lot is wrapped in an
All that grows in the Maldives are coconuts, mangoes, papayas and pine- areca leaf, and the wad is chewed whole. It’s definitely an acquired taste.
apples; the only other locally occurring product is fish, which explains
the simplicity of Maldivian cuisine historically. DRINKS
However, as trade with the Indian subcontinent, Africa, Arabia and The only naturally occurring fresh water in the Maldives is rainwater,
the Far East have always brought influences of a more exciting nature, which is stored in natural underground aquifers beneath each island. This
Kavaabu are small deep-
the result is far less bland than it could be. That said, don’t expect to see is quite a feat, and water conservation has always been extremely important
fried dough balls with
a Maldivian takeaway open up on a street near you any time soon. in Maldivian culture, to the extent that the Maldives Tourism Law states Bis hulavuu is a popular
tuna, mashed potato,
The Indian influence is clear in local cuisine above all; Maldivian food that no water resources may be diverted from an inhabited island to supply snack – a pastry made
pepper and lime – a very
is often hot and spicy. If you’re going to eat local food, prepare your a resort. All resorts have their own desalinating plants to keep visitors sup- from eggs, sugar and
popular ‘short eat’.
palate for spicy fish curry, fish soup, fish patties and variations thereof. plied with their (by local standards incredibly wasteful) water needs. ghee and served cold.
A favourite Maldivian breakfast is mas huni, a healthy mixture of tuna, In resorts, consider the sheer carbon costs of only drinking imported You may well be invited
onion, coconut and chilli, eaten cold with roshi (unleavened bread, like Evian – even if you can afford to at $5 a bottle – and go for desalinated to try some if you visit an
an Indian chapati) and tea. water, which is perfectly good to drink, if perhaps something of an ac- inhabited island.
For snacks and light meals, Maldivians like hedhikaa, a selection of quired taste initially.
little finger foods. In homes the hedhikaa are placed on the table, and The main drinks other than rainwater are imported tea and toddy
everyone helps themselves. In teashops this is called short eats – a choice tapped from the crown of the palm trunk at the point where the coconuts
of things like fihunu mas (fish pieces with chilli coating), gulha (fried grow. Every village has its toddy man (raa veri). The raa is sweet and deli-
dough balls filled with fish and spices), keemia (fried fish rolls in batter) cious if you can get over the pungent smell. It can be drunk immediately
and kuli boakiba (spicy fish cakes). There are also samosa-like triangles after it is tapped from the tree, or left to become a little alcoholic as the
of curried vegetables, and even small pizza squares are appearing in sugar ferments.
teashops now. Sweets include little bowls of bondi bai (rice pudding), tiny Fermented raa is of course the closest most Maldivians ever get to
bananas and zileybee (coloured coils of sugared, fried batter). Generally, alcohol; the Maldives is strictly dry outside of resorts (and Maldivian staff
anything small and brown will be savoury and contain fish, and anything cannot drink alcohol even there). Despite this, nonalcoholic beer is very
light or brightly coloured will be sweet. popular in Male’. Soft drinks, including the world’s only Coca-Cola made
A main meal will include rice or roshi or both, plus soups, curries, from salt water anywhere in the world, are available in Male’ and in villages,
vegetables, pickles and spicy sauces. In a teashop, a substantial meal at prices much lower than in resorts. The range of drinks is very limited.
with rice and roshi is called long eats. The most typical dish is garudia, a Teashops will always serve bor feng (drinking water), and of course sai
(tea). Unless you ask otherwise, tea comes black, with hakuru (sugar). Kiru
(milk) isn’t a common drink, and is usually made up from powder.
DOS & DON’TS

„ Always eat with your right hand; your left hand is considered unclean
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
In most cases you won’t have much choice – all resorts have at least one
„ Do ask for a spoon if you aren’t comfortable eating with your bare hands Maldivian style; this restaurant, typically two or more affording some choice. Buffets (always
won’t offend. for breakfast, often for lunch and dinner too) allow for lots of different
„ Remember that during Ramazan it’s not acceptable to eat in public during daylight hours cuisines and plenty of choice to feature everywhere. In Male’, where
outside of resorts. there’s a much broader choice, the most obvious place for authentic
Maldivian short eats is in any teashop in the town (see p100). Small
 © Lonely Planet Publications
86 F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 87

towns and villages elsewhere will also have teashops and are a great way garudia the staple diet of fish soup, often taken with rice, lime and chilli
to sample real Maldivian food. kandukukulhu a special tuna curry
mas fried fish; usually refers to skipjack tuna or bonito
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS mas huni & hana kuri mas dried, tinned, fried or cold fish mixed with coconut, onion, chilli
Vegetarians will have no problem in resorts (although if there’s only a and spices
set meal rather than a buffet spread, veggies will often be stuck with an mas riha fish curry
unimaginative pasta dish or ratatouille at cheaper resorts). In general, modunu a simple salad
resorts are well prepared for all types of diet, and in better resorts the paan bread
chef may cook you a dish by request, if what’s on offer isn’t appealing. rihakuru garudia boiled down to a salty sauce or paste
Maldivians love their Vegans, again, should fare reasonably well – soya milk is on offer in most roshi flat, unleavened bread
coffee and you can resorts and the buffet allows each diner to pick and mix. Outside resorts valo mas smoked fish
get very good quality and Male’ things won’t be so easy – fish dominates menus in the islands, hiki mas sundried fish
espresso, latte or but people will make an enormous effort to accommodate your wishes
cappuccino anywhere and something will always be found. Short eats (hedhikaa) is the selection of little sweet and savoury items
in Male’. displayed on the counter of a local teashop:
EATING WITH KIDS gulas fish ball; deep-fried in flour and rice batter
There are very often kids’ sections to menus and buffets in resorts, giving kuli boakiba spicy fish cake
youngsters a choice of slightly less-refined foods ranging from spaghetti bondi bai rice pudding; sometimes with currants
to fish fingers and chicken nuggets. Even if there’s nothing dedicated to kastad sweet custard
the kids’ tastes, resort buffets are usually diverse enough to cater to even foni boakiba gelatin cakes and puddings
the fussiest eaters. Baby-food products are not on sale in resorts, so bring
whatever junior will need for the trip. Most fruit is imported, but the following are grown locally:
kurumba coconut, especially a young or new coconut
HABITS & CUSTOMS donkeo little bananas
There’s not a huge amount of etiquette to worry about if you eat in Male’ bambukeyo breadfruit
or resorts. If you’re lucky enough to be entertained in a local house, you bambukeyo hiti breadfruit used in curries
should obey some basic rules, but again, the Maldivians are very relaxed bambukeyo bondibai breadfruit used in desserts
and as long as you show respect and enjoyment, they’ll be very glad to
have you eating with them.
When going to eat, wait to be shown where to sit and wait for the
kateeb (island chief) or the male head of the household to sit down be-
fore you do. Take a little of everything offered and do so only with your
right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean by Muslims. Do ask
for cutlery if you find it hard to roll your food into little balls like the
Maldivians do; this is quite normal for foreigners. Thanks should not be
overdone, as this can suggest a person was not happy to do whatever it
was in the first place, although expressing gratitude to the head of the
household, the kateeb and the cook will always be welcome.
Wine is available in
resorts, but only in the EAT YOUR WORDS
better ones. Expect to pay Most people you meet will speak at least rudimentary English, although
extraordinary mark-ups; if you are lucky enough to visit an inhabited island and to be a guest in
you’ll do well to find a local’s house then it’s likely they won’t speak a word.
anything OK for under
US$50. I’m a vegetarian aharen ehves baavatheh ge maheh nukan
What is the local speciality? dhivehi aanmu keumakee kobaa?
What is this? mee ko-on cheh?
The meal was delicious keun varah meeru
Thank you for your hospitality be-heh-ti gaai kamah shukuriyya
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Food Glossary restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Any substantial meal, with rice and roshi, is called long eats, and might only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
include the following:
bai rice everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
bis egg the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
88 www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • H i s t o r y 89

HISTORY INFORMATION
Male’
MALE’

MALE’
Male’ has been the seat of the Maldives’ rul- Bookshops
ing dynasties since before the 12th century, Asrafee Bookshop (Map p94; %3323424; Chandanee
though none left any grand palaces. Some Magu) Has a good selection of English paperbacks upstairs.
trading houses appeared in the 17th century, Asters Bookshop (Map p94; %3335505; www.asters
along with a ring of defensive bastions, but .com.mv; Majeedee Magu) Has one of the best selections
Male’ did not acquire the trappings of a city of English-language books in town, including Lonely Planet
and had a very limited range of economic guides, a good history section and more highbrow fiction
A tiny island, densely crowded with motorbikes, bustling business people, stern-faced police- and cultural activities. Visitors in the 1920s than the usual offerings.
men, hawkers and crisply uniformed school children, Male’ (mar-lay) is the modern, mercantile estimated the population at only 5000. Novelty Bookshop (Map p94; %3318899; Fareedhee
face of the Maldives that few people take the time to see. Overlooked by brightly coloured Growth began with the 1930s modernisa- Magu) This outlet for Novelty Publishing, the country’s
tall thin buildings and surrounded by incongruously turquoise water all around, this is the tion, and the first banks, hospitals, high main publisher, has a great range of books about the
centre of the Maldives, the engine driving its economic progress and the forum for the schools and government offices appeared in Maldives, as well as some imported titles.
country’s (stifled) political debate. the following decades. Only since the 1970s,
with wealth from tourism and an expanding Emergency
Far smaller than the neighbouring airport island of Hulhumale’ – where long-haul flights economy, hast the city really burgeoned and Ambulance %102
land on a runway that dwarfs the main avenues of the capital – Male’ nevertheless feels growth emerged as a problem. Fire %118
like an important place, where the economic, political and cultural leaders of the republic
But a problem it has very definitely be- Police %119
come; despite extending the area of the city Police station (Boduthakurufaanu Magu) On the corner
congregate, where nearly all the country’s massive number of exports arrive and where through land reclamation over the island’s of Jumhooree Maidan.
more than a few expats and travellers find themselves from time to time. That said, Male’ reef, Male’ is unable to extend any fur-
is interesting to visit mainly for a taste of Maldivian life more than for its inherent wealth ther and so the government is looking to Internet Access
of things to see and do. Independent travellers (or FITs as they are known locally) will find projects such as nearby Hulhumale’ to ac- There is no shortage of Internet cafés in
that this is a place they see a lot of – it’s also one of the few places where palm trees and commodate the future overspill of the city. Male’. You will see plenty throughout the
sandy beaches aren’t on the menu. town, but the following are the best located.
ORIENTATION Bistro Jade (Map p94; Boduthakurufaanu Magu;
Male’ is pleasant and pleasingly quirky – its alcohol-free bars and restaurants jostle with Male’ is a roughly rectangular shape, its cen- h8am-11pm Sat-Thu, 3-11pm Fri) A hub for expats,
its incredible array of shops and lively markets (imagine that in this tiny space all imports tre being spread out along the north side of this great café is a wi-fi hotspot so if you have your own
into the country are administered and sold) and the general hubbub of a capital is very the island – where all the main jetties and laptop come here for a fast connection and good coffee.
harbours are. The main street is the water- Cyber Café (Map p94; Ameer Ahmed Magu; per hr Rf15;
much present. This is a chance to get a real feel for the Maldives, what makes its people
front Boduthakurufaanu Magu, which now h9am-midnight Sat-Thu, 2pm-midnight Fri) Con-
tick and to meet Maldivians on an equal footing. goes all the way around the island. Many cen- nections can be slow here, but the booths offer privacy.
tral government institutions are on this street Dhiraagu Cyber Café (Map p94; Chandanee Magu;
and it opens up half-way down to include h9am-1am Sat-Thu, 4pm-1am Fri & religious holidays)
HIGHLIGHTS Hulhumale'
the city’s main square, Jumhooree Maidan. Dhiraagu, the country’s main mobile-phone provider, has
„ Get a taste of everyday Maldivian life at the Male’ is divided into four administrative dis- free wi-fi in this, their central outlet. Assuming you have a
fish and produce markets (p95) tricts, from west to east: Maafannu, covering laptop you can come in and go online for free.
most of the western end of the island; Mach-
„ See the interesting collection in the
angolhi, running north–south across the Laundry
National Museum (p93) and enjoy the
middle; Galolhu, a crowded residential maze Any hotel will take care of your laundry for
shade in Sultan’s Park (p93)
in south-central Male’; and Henveiru, cover- a few dollars per item. Guesthouses will do
„ Admire and explore the fascinating coral ing the east and northeast. These districts it more cheaply. Allow a couple of days if
stone Old Friday Mosque (p95) are indiscernible to visitors, but taxi drivers the weather is rainy. There are no laundro-
„ If you’re not a diver, see a reef up close and understand the addresses. Street numbers are mats, and only a couple of dedicated laun-
personal on the Whale Submarine (p95) Fish rarely used – the building name will do. dry services.
Market
Produce Market Whale Submarine
Baansaree Laundry (Map pp90-1; %3327134; shirts
„ Check out the fascinating tetrapods and the
quirky tetrapod monument on the southern National Museum
Old Friday Mosque Maps & shorts Rf4; hclosed Fri) It’s out of the way, a few
Sultan's Given Male’s size the two maps in this book blocks northeast of the New Harbour, but is reliable and
side of the island at Artificial Beach (p96) Park Artificial Beach
should be sufficient. The Maldives Tour- extremely cheap.
„ Take a ferry trip to Hulhumale’ (p104) and ism Promotion Board’s Resort/Hotel Guide
see the Maldivian Brave New World under brochure has an adequate map of Male’; Left Luggage
construction it’s given out free at the airport and at the There are no dedicated left-luggage facilities
MTPB office (p91) in town. There are town in Male’ itself. The only option is taking a
„ AREA: 1.77 SQ KM „ ELEVATION: 2M „ POPULATION: 80,000
plans pointing out the major sights of the day room at a hotel, or asking nicely at re-
island along Boduthakurufaanu Magu. ception if you can leave your bags. There is

Male’ Highlights
 90 MA L E ’ • • I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • I n f o r m a t i o n 91

a left-luggage service at the airport that costs Medical Services Indira Gandhi Memorial Hospital (Map pp90-1; thakurufaanu Magu (Map p94). All have
MALE’

MALE’
US$3 per item, per 24 hours. Both the following will make arrangements %3316647; Buruzu Magu) Modern public facility, well ATMs that accept international cards.

ὄὄ
with travel insurance companies, and both equipped and staffed with English-speaking doctors . More local banks are clustered near the
Libraries have doctors trained to do a diving medi- harbour end of Chandanee Magu and east
National Library (Map p94; Majeedee Magu; hclosed cal check. Money along Boduthakurufaanu Magu. They all
Fri) In a big, newly renovated building, and has quite a ADK Private Hospital (Map p94; %3313553; Sosun For reliable service, try the State Bank of change travellers cheques, usually for a
few English books. Nonresidents can’t borrow books, but Magu) Private facility with Western-trained doctors and India, Bank of Maldives, Bank of Ceylon small transaction fee. Bank of Maldives
are welcome to sit and read in the library. dentists, excellent standards of care, and quite high prices. or HSBC Bank, all near each other on Bodu- doesn’t charge a fee if you change travel-
lers cheques for Maldivian rufiya, but does

ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ ὈὈ
Ὀ ὄὄὄ
MALE' 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
charge if you want US dollars.
Universal Enterprises Ltd (Map pp90-1; %3322971;
A B C D E F www.unisurf.com; 39 Orchid Magu) The Amex agent in
See Central Male' Map (p94)
To Hulhule', Transaero, Male'
International Airport (2km)
the Maldives.
Inner
Harbour Fishing
Harbour
1 INDIAN 1 Post

ὄὄὄ Ὀ ὄὄὄ
Fish
OCEAN Port 6
Market Main post office (Map pp90-1; %3315555; www
Authority
Commercial
Building
3 9 Jumhooree Maidan .maldivespost.com; Boduthakurufaanu Magu; h8.15am-
Harbour e) (Main Square) Bodu
rine
Driv
Ame
thaku
rufaa 9pm Sun-Thu, 3-9pm Fri, 9.15am-9pm Sat) Brand new and
Ma agu er Ah nu
gu ( Mag
efficiently run, just opposite the Maldives Port Authority

u
med
Ma e M u (M

Mag
Mag
anu eere u arine
uru
fa Hav 5 Drive
) building. Go to the 1st floor to post a parcel. There’s a post
hak Medhuziy
dut 19

nee
u aarai Mag
Bo ag u
office at the airport too.

nda
M Sultan's
di

ὄὄὄ ὈὈ
ὄὄὄ
hi u
aru

Cha
rc 16 ag Park
Fulooniya O M
riu V

Magu ee 4
dh
Lily Magu Roa
sha Telephone & Fax

u
e
are nee

Mag

Magu
Shaa

2 F Ma 2
13
gu Although they seem to go largely unused,

hah
7 Nee Viole
there are Dhiraagu telephone booths around

Sosun
11 lafaru t M

Abad
17 Mag agu
u
Majeedee Ma
the town. Lots of shops offer discounted
u

gu 15
Mag

18 14
Irama Magu calls abroad and phone cards. Anyone in
agu
anu

u Majeedee Ma
the Maldives for long might profit from
a Mag

ὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
ὄὄὄὈ
12

(Marine Drive)
gu
agu

ebai M
rufa

n Magu

Artificial
Higun

National
getting a local SIM card for their mobile
ag

ru M

hukaal
aku

Football Beach
M

Stadium
uth

phone (see p180).

Rahdh
Mag
haa
yo
Izzudhdhee

Hadhuvaru

Kalu T

Muraga Ma gu
Ma
Bod

ave

gu
ilba

eyo
nee

Muiv
Ma

Muraga Magu
Dh

2
Toilets

anu Magu
nda

1 Mirihi Magu
Isandhar Magu 10
Cha

3 Hithigas Ma 3
Buruzu Magu gu The most conveniently located public toilet
Lonuziyaarai
(Rf2) is on the back street between Jade

Moon Light Higun

Magu

Boduthakurufa
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Ameenee Ma
20
Outdoor
gu
Buruzu Magu Bistro and the small Mosque on Ameer
Stage
Ahmed Magu. However, you’re equally able
Ameenee Ma
gu to pop in and use the toilets of most cafés or
Sports 8
New
Grounds restaurants; the owners are almost univer-
Harbour sally polite and don’t seem to mind.
Boduthakurufaanu Magu Tourist Information
4 4 Metropolitan Tourism Promotion Board (MTPB; Map
p94; %3323228; www.visitmaldives.com; 12 Boduthaku-
rufaanu Magu; h7.30am-2.30pm Sun-Thu) The MTPB has
an information counter on the 3rd floor of an office building
INFORMATION
American Express.....................(see 5)
on the seafront. It gives away free booklets and maps and
Baansaree Laundry.....................1 B3 can answer specific inquiries. The information desk at the
German & Austrian Consulate..(see 5) SLEEPING
Indira Gandhi Memorial Hospital..2 A3 Blue Diamond Guesthouse.......10 C3
airport is supposedly open when international flights arrive,
Main Post Office........................3 C1 Male' Tour Inn.........................11 B2
INDIAN
but sometimes this isn’t the case. Even when it’s not staffed,
Novelty Bookshop......................4 C2 Transit Inn...............................12 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
Universal Enterprises..................5 C2 Vilingili View Inn......................13 A2 Star..........................................18 A2 OCEAN look on the shelf out the front for some useful booklets.
5 West Inn..................................14 B2 5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Produce Market..........................6 C1 EATING
SHOPPING
Photo Hi-Brite..........................19 C2 Travel Agencies
Sea Explorers Dive School...........7 B2 Anbumaa Café........................15 C2 There’s a plethora of travel agents in Male’.
Tetrapod Monument..................8 E4 Salsa Royal...............................16 C2 TRANSPORT
Theemuge (Presidential Palace)..9 C1 Symphony Restaurant..............17 C2 Dhonis to Vilingili.....................20 A3 Most of the smaller ones do nothing but
try to sell an allocation of rooms at a resort
 92 MA L E ’ • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • S i g h t s 93

or two. If you’re an independent traveller main annoyance in Male’ is the lack of

MALE’

MALE’
looking for a resort or a safari tour, see alcohol. If you really want a drink, take HOUSE NAMES
p14, and be prepared to do some shop- the ferry from Jetty No 1 to the Hulhule’ Street numbers are rarely used in Male’, so most houses and buildings have a distinctive name,
ping around – ask in town, or call one or Island Hotel (p100) near the airport. typically written in picturesque English as well as in the local Thaana script. Some Maldivians
more of those listed below. A full list of prefer rustic titles like Crabtree, Forest, Oasis View and Banana Cabin. Others are specifically
Male’ travel agents can be found at www SIGHTS floral, like Sweet Rose and Luxury Garden, or even vegetable, like Carrot, or the perplexing Leaf
.visitmaldives.com. Male’ is more of an experience than a suc- Mess. There are also exotic names like Paris Villa and River Nile, while some sound like toilet
Crown Tours (Map p94; %3329889; www.crowntours cession of astonishing must-sees. The best disinfectants – Ozone, Green Zest, Dawn Fresh.
maldives.com; Fasmeeru Bldg, 5th fl, Boduthakurufaanu thing to do is enjoy a stroll and absorb the Some of our quirkier favourite house names include Hot Lips, Subtle Laughter, Remind House,
Magu) atmosphere of this oddest of capitals. That Pardon Villa, Frenzy and Mary Lightning and Aston Villa.
Inner Maldives (Map p94; %3315499; www.inner said, there are a few genuine sights well Shop names and businesses, on the other hand, often have an overt advertising message –
maldives.com.mv; Ameer Ahmed Magu) worth a day’s exploration. People’s Choice Supermarket, Bless Trade, Fair Price, and Neat Store. Premier Chambers is not
Sultans of the Sea (Map p94; %3320330; www a pretentious house name – it’s where you’ll find Male’s first barrister.
.sultansoftheseas.com; Fasmeeru Bldg, ground fl, Bodu- Old Friday Mosque
thakurufaanu Magu) Hukuru Miskiiy (Map p94; Medhuziyaarai Magu) is the
Sun Travel & Tours (Map p94; %3325977; www oldest mosque in the country, dating from The mosque was built on the founda- by the sultans – clothing, utensils, weapons
.sunholidays.com; Meheli Goalhi) 1656. It’s a beautiful structure made from tions of an old temple that faced west to and a throne. Some of the fabrics are beauti-
Sunland Travel (Map p94; %3324658; www.sunland coral stone into which intricate decoration the setting sun, not northwest towards ful, especially the rich brocades. Excellent,
.com.mv; STO Trade Centre, Orchid Magu) and Quranic script have been carved. Even Mecca. Consequently, the worshippers traditional lacquer work is displayed on
Sunny Maldives (Map p94; %3338527; www.sunny though an ugly corrugated-iron cover is have to face the corner of the mosque large bowls and trays used to bring gifts to
maldives.com; Ameer Ahmed Magu) protecting the roof and some of the walls, when they pray – the striped carpet, laid the sultan. Weapons include bonthi sticks,
Villa Travels (Map p94; %3332555; www.villatravels this is still a fascinating place. The interior at an angle, shows the correct direction. which were used in martial arts, and a sil-
.com; 1/12 Boduthakurufaanu Magu) is superb and famed for its fine lacquer Overlooking the mosque is the solid, van bonthi, used by a husband to punish an
Voyages Maldives (Map pp90–1; %3323617; www work and elaborate woodcarvings. One round, blue-and-white tower of the mun- unfaithful wife.
.voyagesmaldives.com; Chandhanee Magu) long panel, carved in the 13th century, naaru – the squat minaret. Though it Especially interesting are the museum’s
commemorates the introduction of Islam doesn’t look that old, it dates from 1675. pre-Islamic stone carvings collected by
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES to the Maldives. Visitors wishing to see in- West of the mosque is a graveyard, with Thor Heyerdahl, and other examples from
The main danger in Male’ is posed by the side are supposed to get permission from many elaborately carved tombstones. Stones sites all over the country. They include a
mopeds that seem to appear from nowhere an official of the Ministry of Islamic Affairs with rounded tops are for females, those fine Buddha’s head and various phallic im-
at great speeds. Keep your wits about you (%3322266). However, most of the staff are with pointy tops are for males and those ages. Most of them are labelled, but little
and look around before crossing the road. officials of the ministry and, if you are re- featuring gold-plated lettering are the graves is really known about the significance or
Crime against travellers is not unknown, spectful and well dressed, they will usually of former sultans. The small buildings are historical context of these fascinating finds.
but it is quite rare. Pickpocketing is prob- give you permission to enter the mosque on family mausoleums and their stone walls Quirky additions to the historic collection
ably the biggest threat, particularly in the spot – just hang around outside and try are intricately carved. Respectably dressed include a tiny Maldivian flag taken on one
crowded shopping areas and around the to get the attention of someone, although non-Muslims are welcome to walk around of the Apollo missions and some moon
markets; but again, it is not common. The don’t bother if you’re underdressed. the graveyard; you don’t require permission rock, both gifts from Richard Nixon.
for this. The park (h8am-6pm Sun-Thu, 4-6pm Fri) sur-
rounding the museum was once part of
MALE’ IN ONE DAY National Museum & Sultan’s Park the grounds of the sultan’s palace. It’s a
Take a stroll down Boduthakurufaanu Magu, the main street running along the waterfront, and The small National Museum (Map p94; %3322254; beautifully planted park full of flowers and
enjoy a relaxed breakfast at Bistro Jade (p89). Carry on down the waterfront, see the President’s Medhuziyaarai Magu; adult/child under 12 US$3/1; h8am- trees and one of the best public spaces in
Office and the main square, turning left to visit the Grand Friday Mosque (opposite), if you’re 6pm Sun-Thu, closed Fri & holidays) is well worth a Male’.
dressed respectfully enough. Next door, drop in to see the small but interesting collection at visit. Housed in a small, three-storey build-
the National Museum (opposite) and enjoy the lovely gardens of the Sultan’s Park (opposite) ing in one corner of the Sultan’s Park, it is the Grand Friday Mosque & Islamic Centre
before some shopping around Fareedhee Magu. For lunch the open-air Seagull Cafe (p101) or only remaining part of the original sultan’s The golden dome of this impressive mosque
Salsa Café (p101) are great options, after which you can explore the market (p95), where you’ll palace – the rest was demolished in 1968 at (Map p94) dominates the skyline of Male’
see the morning catch being brought in and gutted (you’ll be glad you ate beforehand) and the beginning of the second republic. and has become something of a symbol for
everything else imaginable on sale. Carry on to the president’s jetty where you can take the boat The museum has a small collection that the city. Set back off the main square, Jum-
to the Whale Submarine (p95) for a fascinating trip to the reef nearby, and if you still have some is displayed over three floors and well la- hooree Maidan, and opposite the sinister
energy head over to the artificial beach on the east of the island where you can cool off, or just belled in English. You’ll be accompanied National Security Service Headquarters,
chill out with the locals after work and watch the impromptu soccer matches. As night falls, the throughout by one of the staff. A useful, this is the biggest mosque in the country.
city comes alive with promenading couples and teenagers clogging the streets on their motorpeds. illustrated guide to the museum, sold at the Opened in 1984, and built with help
Round the day off with a delicious meal at Thai Wok (p101) and join the crowds walking along entrance for Rf50, has colour pictures and from the Gulf States, Pakistan, Brunei
the seafront – the closest Male’ has to a nightlife scene. more detailed descriptions of the exhibits. and Malaysia, the Grand Friday Mosque
Many of the exhibits are things once owned is striking in its plainness, built in white
 ὄ
ὈὈ ὄὄ
94 MA L E ’ • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • S i g h t s 95

0 300 m INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES KPS Mart...................................54 C1

CENTRAL MALE'
MALE’

MALE’
0 0.2 miles
ADK Private Hospital.................. 1 C3 Grand Friday Mosque............... 24 A2 Olive Garden............................ 55 A2
A B C D Asrafee Bookshop....................... 2 A3 Henvairu Stadium..................... 25 D3 Queen of the Night..................56 D1
Asters Bookshop......................... 3 A3 Islamic Centre.........................(see 24) Red Zanzibar............................ 57 D3
Bodu
thaku Enlargement Bank of Ceylon.......................(see 12) Majeediyya Carnival................. 26 D2 Royal Garden Café....................58 A2
Fishing rufaa 73
INDIAN 16 20
8 5 nu M
agu
Bank of Maldives.........................4 B2 Mosque....................................27 A1 Salsa Café................................. 59 A2
Harbour (Mari 72
75 74 Bistro Jade...................................5 C1 Mosque.................................... 28 A2 Seagull Café............................. 60 A2
OCEAN ne D
1 Fish
21 56 riv
e) Crown Tours...........................(see 17) Muleeaage & Medhu Ziyaarath..29 B2 Shell Beans............................... 61 C2
63 50
Market Ame
53
er Ah 6
med 48 Cyber Café.................................6 D1 National Museum..................... 30 A2 Supermarket...........................(see 70)
76 Mag
54 11 u 18 Denmark Embasy....................(see 20) National Security Service........... 31 A2 Thai Wok..................................62 B2
70 Jumhooree Maidan Bod 52 51 49 45 Dhiraagu Cyber Café..................7 A2 Old Friday Mosque...................32 B2 Trends...................................... 63 D1

Ὀ ὄὄ
27 (Main Square) uthak 47
urufa
anu M 0 100 m 41 19
Dutch Consular Agent............(see 60) People's Majlis..........................33 B2
15 13 agu
Ame Finland Embasy.......................(see 20) President's Office......................34 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
er Ah 67 12 22 (M
med 34 arine HSBC Bank..................................8 C1 Republican monument.............. 35 A2 National Football Stadium.........64 B3
M a g 4 Drive
66 24 31 9 u
62 10 ) Immigration Office......................9 B2 Sultan's Park............................. 36 A2 Olympus...................................65 B3
55 68 17
69 61 71
35
Medhuziy 32
Indian High Commission...........10 B2 Tomb of Mohammed
aarai M Inner Maldives..........................11 C1 Thakurufaanu....................... 37 A3 SHOPPING
30 agu
59 7
60 58 38 29 Italian Consular Agent............(see 17) Whale Submarine Office...........38 B2 Antique & Style........................ 66 A2
u

2 36 33 Maldives Travel Promotion Atoll Surf...................................67 B2

Mag

26

ὄὄ
Lily Magu 28 Hit Board....................................12 B2 SLEEPING Dive Shop.................................68 A2
nee

haf See Enlargement

fin
iva Ministry of Atolls Athama Palace Hotel................ 39 A3 FDI Station................................69 A2
nda

a
Ma Roa Administration.......................13 B1 Buruneege Residence................40 B2 Gloria Maris............................(see 66)
Cha

gu

23 gu sha
agu

40 nee National Library........................14 A3 Candies.....................................41 D1 STO Trade Centre.....................70 A1

Magu
u Ma

46 Ma
na M

gu Norway Embasy......................(see 20) Central Hotel............................ 42 A3 Villa Photo..............................(see 70)

Mag
gefan

(Marine Drive)
Nee
Magu
Hadheebee

Viole NZ Consulate..........................(see 17) City Palace............................... 43 D3 Water World..........................(see 68)

uhee

lafaru t M
hah

Mag ag 44
u u 77 Police Station.............................15 B1 Extra Haven Guesthouse........... 44 C3
Ali Kile

37
Husn

Abad

Sosun

2 State Bank of India....................16 C1 Fariva Inn..................................45 TRANSPORT

D1

ὄὄ
14
Majeedee Ma
gu
65 57 Sultans of the Sea..................... 17 C2 Kai Lodge................................. 46 Air India.................................... 71 C2
C2
1 25
Sun Travel & Tours...................18 D1 Kam Hotel.................................47 Airport Ferry Arrival Jetty.......... 72 D1
D1

anu Magu
3
39 Sunland Travel........................(see 70) Maagiri Lodge.......................... 48 Airport Ferry Departure Jetty.... 73 D1
D1
agu

3
agu

Majeedee Ma 43
gu Sunny Maldives........................19 D1 Mookai Hotel............................49 Cosmos..................................(see 71)
D1
aala M

64 Artificial
ebai M

Beach
Janavaru Magu

Sweden Embasy........................20 C1 Nasandhura Palace Hotel..........50 Huhulmale' Ferry Terminal........74 D1

D1

Boduthakurufa
42
Thuk

Toilet........................................21 C1 Relax Inn...................................51 Island Aviation..........................75 C1

D1
Rahdh

UK Consular Agent...................(see 7) Malaysian Airlines...................(see 22)

Kalu

Villa Travels...............................22 B2 EATING President's Jetty........................76 A1

Voyages Maldives..................... 23 A2 Buruzu Hotaa............................52 D1 Qatar Airways........................(see 75)
Western Union.......................(see 22) City Snacks.............................(see 12) Singapore Airlines...................(see 75)
Dawn Cafe................................53 A1 Sri Lankan Airlines.................... 77 D3
marble and virtually free from decoration. and impressive chandeliers. The Islamic Cen-
From a boat coming into Male’s harbour, tre also includes a conference hall, library
you can still see the gold dome glinting and classrooms. the man who liberated the country from ported vegetables. Coconuts and bananas
in the sun, although the gold is actually Portuguese rule and was then the sultan are the most plentiful produce, but look
anodised aluminium. The munnaaru, with Muleeaage & Medhu Ziyaarath from 1573 to 1585. Thakurufaanu is also inside for the stacks of betel leaf, for wrap-
its space-age shape and distinctive zigzag Across the road from the Old Friday commemorated in the name Boduthakuru- ping up a ‘chew’. This is the heart and soul
decoration, was supposed to be the tallest Mosque is a blue-and-white building with faanu Magu (bodu means ‘big’ or ‘great’). of the capital and just wandering around,
structure in Male’, but that title now goes colourful gateposts. This is the Muleeaage watching the hawkers and the shoppers and
to the telecommunications towers. (Map p94), built as a palace in the early Mosques seeing the vast array of products on display
Visits to see the Grand Friday Mosque 20th century. The sultan was deposed be- There are over 20 miskiiys (mosques) in is fascinating.
must be between 9am and 5pm, but not fore he could move in and the building was Male’; some are simple coral buildings with Nearby is the fish market (Map p94), which
during prayer times. It closes to all non- used for government offices for about 40 an iron roof and others are quite stylish is not to be missed, although the squeamish
Muslims 15 minutes before prayers and years. It became the president’s residence with elegant minarets. Outside there is al- may well object to the buckets of entrails
for the following hour. Before noon and in 1953 when the first republic was pro- ways a well or an outdoor bathroom, be- or the very public gutting of fish going
between 2pm and 3pm are the best times claimed, but President Gayoom moved to cause Muslims must always wash before on all around. This is the soul of Male’ –
to visit. Invading bands of casual sightseers a new official residence in 1994. At the they pray. Visitors usually can’t go inside, and there’s little more authentically Mal-
are not encouraged, but if you are genu- eastern end of the building’s compound, but there’s no need – the doors are always divian than watching the day’s catch being
inely interested and suitably dressed, you’ll behind an elaborate blue-and-white gate- wide open, and you can clearly see that the brought in to the market from the adjacent
be welcomed by one of the staff members house, the Medhu Ziyaarath (Map p94) is the interior is nearly always devoid of furniture fishing harbour. Fishing and marketing are
who hangs out by the entrance. Men must tomb of Abu Al Barakaath, who brought or decoration. men’s work here, and Maldivian women
wear long pants and women a long skirt Islam to Male’ in 1153. don’t usually venture into these areas.
or dress. Markets
The main prayer hall inside the mosque Tomb of Mohammed Thakurufaanu The busy produce market (Map pp90–1) gives Whale Submarine
can accommodate up to 5000 worshippers In the back streets in the middle of town, in a real flavour of the Maldives – its people at The Whale Submarine (Map p94; % 3333939;
and has beautifully carved wooden side the grounds of a small mosque, is the tomb turns friendly and surly as they pack out all www.submarinesmaldives.com.mv; Medhuzuyaarai Magu;
panels and doors, a specially woven carpet (Map above) of the Maldives’ greatest hero, available space selling home-grown and im- adult/child/family US$75/38/170) can hardly be
 96 MA L E ’ • • W a l k i n g T o u r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • W a l k i n g T o u r 97

described as a sight of Male’, but it’s a popu- to a reef wall, and its lights illuminate crev- Start from the waterfront near Jumhooree Maldivian design. Continue south from
MALE’

MALE’
lar excursion and departs from a submarine ices and show up colours that wouldn’t be Maidan (1), the main square, conspicuous for here through streets far more typical of the
dock just off the western side of Male’. First visible in natural light. the huge Maldivian flag flying on its eastern crowded capital until you reach the Tomb
things first, this is not a submarine for whale Underwater time is about 45 minutes, side. It seems a pleasant and relaxed place, of Mohammed Thakurufaanu (7), a much-loved
watching – its name is slightly misleading. It but allow 1½ hours for the whole trip. with friends and families relaxing around shrine honouring the man who liberated
is, in fact, a submarine for looking at life on Quite a few people fit in a submarine trip the square, but this was the setting for previ- the Maldives from the Portuguese in the
a reef. It’s hard to recommend for divers, as if they have a few hours to spare at the air- ously unthinkable antigovernment demon- 16th century. Cut down to Majeedee Magu,
the trip can’t really compare to a real dive, port before their departure flight. The sub strations in August 2004, and you’ll notice the city’s main thoroughfare and absorb
but for kids and those who don’t dive, this maintains normal surface pressure inside, that it remains a well-guarded place, with the shops, noise and bustle of the town’s
is a great (if pricey) little excursion. As the so it’s quite safe to fly straight afterwards. the police station on one side and the sinister commercial heart as you walk west. Cut
submarine departs from off the coast you white National Security Services Headquarters (2) up through the good shopping streets of
have to get a boat either from the airport Artificial Beach to the south, strewn with orders not to take Fareedhee Magu and Orchid Magu, passing
of Jetty No 1 (the jetty in front of Jumhoo- The western seafront of Male’ is its rec- photographs. the striking Theemuge (Presidential Palace;
ree Maidan, also known as the President’s reational centre. Here, a sweet little beach To the right of the NSS is the Grand Friday 8), official residence of Maumoon Abdul
Jetty) – one boat picks up from both about has been crafted from the breakwater tetra- Mosque (3; p93), walk down the sandy street Gayoom. The charming mosque (9) next door
30 minutes before the scheduled departure of pods and there’s a whole range of fast food past its main entrance and you’ll arrive at is also worth a peek at from the street.
the submarine. You should ring ahead and cafés next to it as well as open fields for the Republican Monument (4), a modern-style From here head north towards the sea-
book a place (there are several departures ad hoc games of soccer and cricket. Fur- centrepiece to a roundabout unveiled in front and turn left for the wonderful produce
daily) so the boat can pick you up. At the ther up towards the airport ferry there are 1999 to commemorate 30 years of Maldi-
submarine dock (the ‘Whale House’) you pay fairground attractions at the Majeediyya Car- vian independence. Avoiding the traffic,
your money, have a cool drink and board nival (Map p94) including a bowling alley cross over to the Sultan’s Park (5; p93) and WALK FACTS

ὄὄ ὈὈ
the sub. and more eateries. The other way you’ll walk through its well-laid-out flowerbeds Start Jumhooree Maidan
The sub takes a few minutes to get to see the charming tetrapod monument (Map and plantings to Lily Magu. Exit the park Finish Bistro Jade
its dive spot, and then descends to about pp90–1), a local salute to the mini concrete and turn left, where you’ll see a charming Distance 3km
35m while passengers gaze out through structures that together form a life-saving coral stone mosque (6) in the corner of the Duration One hour
large, lenslike windows. A variety of fish breakwater for the city (see below). park, typical of the intricate 17th-century
come very close to the windows, attracted
partly by the food that the sub dispenses – WALKING TOUR
surgeonfish, blue-striped snapper, and Male’ is best seen on foot – you can circum- 0
0 0.2 miles
400 m
Inner
unicornfish are among the most com- navigate the entire island in a couple of Harbour
12
monly seen, but you have an excellent view hours; but to get a proper feel for the place,
INDIAN
of smaller creatures too, such as lionfish try to get into the crowded, chaotic back- 11
e) OCEAN
and anemonefish. The sub goes very close streets in the island’s centre. rine
Driv 10
Ma
gu (
Ma Bodu

Ὀ
u thaku
rufaan 8 9 1
rufaa
aku gu nu M
uth e M
a agu
Bod (Mari
THE MAGNIFICENT TETRAPOD eere Ame ne D
Hav er Ah
med
rive)
3 2 Mag
u
The installation of tetrapod walls around much of Male’ saved it from the huge potential dev-

u
Mag
astation of the Indian Ocean tsunami in 2004. Tetrapods are concrete blocks with four fat legs, 4 Medhuziy
aarai Mag 13
u

di
each approximately 1m long, sticking out like the four corners of a tetrahedron. These blocks

nee
u
aru ag

nda
M 5
riu V
can be stacked together in rows and layers so they interlock together to form a wall several hi
d

Cha
rc 6
u Roa
metres high, looking like a giant version of a child’s construction toy. A tetrapod breakwater O
Shaa

ag sha
M Lily Magu nee
e
has gaps that allow sea water to pass through, but collectively the structure is so massive and d he Ma
gu
ree
Fa

u
its surface so irregular that it absorbs and dissipates the force of the waves and protects the

Mag

Magu
shoreline from the physical impact of a storm. As Male’ has expanded through land reclama- Viole

hah
t M
agu

Sosun
tion to cover its entire natural coral reef, its natural buffer from the force of strong waves has Nee

Abad
la
Majeedee Ma
7 Magfaru
u
disappeared. gu

A severe storm in 1988 flooded Male’s streets, but the worst damage was on the southern
and eastern edges of the island. Huge waves broke up tons of landfill that was part of a land- Majeedee Ma
gu

agu
reclamation scheme, and much of this land was re-reclaimed by the sea.

u
a Mag
National
u
u

ebai M
Mag
ag

agu

Football
The solution was to protect the whole island with a rim of tetrapod breakwaters, constructed
M

Stadium

hukaal
ru M

as part of a Japanese foreign-aid project. In some places the tetrapod walls are used to retain
nee

Rahdh
haa

Kalu T
nda
i
erd

landfill, and have a path on top forming an attractive seaside promenade. In other places, tetra-
ilba

Cha
ruk

Dh

pod walls enclose an artificial harbour that provides a sheltered anchorage for small boats, and
Koa

Mirihi Magu
a safe spot for kids to swim. Hithigas
Isandhar Magu Magu
 98 MA L E ’ • • M a l e ’ f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • S l e e p i n g 99

market (10; p95). Continue for a few more small, simple en-suite rooms that were option. At the time of research the own- Top End
MALE’

MALE’
blocks along the waterfront, a bustling undergoing renovation when we visited. ers were planning to expand from five to Five of Male’s top-end hotels are on the
area with hardware shops and hangouts Breakfast and drinking water are included 17 rooms. northeast corner of the island, handy to
for sailors and fishermen. Go back along in the price. It’s in a residential part of Transit Inn (Map pp90-1; % 3320420; transit@ the airport dhonis, and a fifth one is in the
the seafront to the fish market (11), which, town, interesting for its authentic local am- dhivehinet.net.mv; Maaveyo Magu; s/d/t US$48/58/68; middle of town – all are comfortable, but
along with the adjacent fishing harbour (12), bience, but not very convenient for shops, a) The Transit Inn is a pleasant, relaxed, none outstanding. Note that alcohol is not
is a must-see for anyone in Male’. Wander restaurants or transport. The Maldivian slightly chaotic place with a friendly little served at any of the Male’ hotels – for that
along the seafront, which is always fascinat- family management is friendly and quite coffee shop downstairs through which you you have to either stay at or drop by the
ing as people crowd on and off boats, and efficient, and the place is popular with enter from the street. All rooms include Hulhule’ Island Hotel (p100).
you can see more and more obscure cargo Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO) workers a fridge and TV; bathrooms are tatty but Central Hotel (Map p94; % 3317766; www
being brought ashore. Finish up at Bistro and various visitors on limited budgets. spacious. It’s a well-run establishment, and .centralmaldives.com; Rahdhebai Magu; s/d from US$64/80;
Jade (13; p89) for a drink out of the heat. Fariva Inn (Map p94; %3337611; amsha@dhivehinet quite often full. a) While the big pink tower of the Central
.net.mv; Boduthakurufaanu Magu; s/d US$35/45; a ) Buruneege Residence (Map p94; % 3330011; Hotel is literally in the centre of the island,
MALE’ FOR CHILDREN The rooms without air-con here are clean www.frontline.com.mv; Hithaffinivaa Magu; s/d US$48/60; this is no great shakes, given that the centre
The Whale Submarine (p95) will appeal to with TV, phone and a basic bathroom. All a ) There is a smattering of old-world of town is the northern shore. It’s actually
kids of all ages, while the Artificial Beach rooms come with fans and a slight smell of charm about this place, which is hidden just a little too far from everything else for
(p96) and the recreational areas nearby is damp. Excellently located. away on a side street not far from the Maj- comfort here, and even though the manage-
also a great place for them to swim, and lis. It’s set around a courtyard and has a ment runs a free shuttle to the airport ferry
older kids can join in an ad hoc football Midrange slightly colonial feel. However, the rooms jetty, this isn’t a great choice. The rooms are
or cricket game with local children. The This type of accommodation in Male’ starts are devoid of character and are completely oddly shaped and a little cramped. Avoid the
nearby Majeediyya Carnival has some fun at around US$50 for singles or doubles in- functional, and the receptionist did not balcony-less junior suites in favour of the
activities for kids as well, including the cluding breakfast, and offers much better speak a word of English on our last visit. standard rooms, all of which have balconies
Slam Bowling Alley. standards than the budget places. Most It’s not far from the airport ferries, and and some great views.
rooms will have air-con, a phone and hot handy to the centre of town, so you could Relax Inn (Map p94; % 3314531; www.relax
SLEEPING water in the bathroom, and the better ones do much worse. maldives.com; Ameer Ahmed Magu; standard s/d from
Space being at a premium on the over- will have a TV. You might get a discount at Kai Lodge (Map p94; % 3328742; kailodge@ US$68/83; a) No Frankie Goes to Hollywood
crowded island, hotels are not cheap here, some of these places if you stay more than dhivehinet.net.mv; Violet Magu; s/d/t US$52/70/89; a) A theme here at the one-time main business
and even top-end rooms are not large by any a few days. few blocks inland from the airport ferry land- hotel of Male’, now somewhat eclipsed by
standard. Despite that, hotel prices are so low Extra Haven Guesthouse (Map p94; %3327453; ing, the relatively atmospheric Kai Lodge has the Mookai and the Kam. The rooms are fine
compared to the expensive resorts that Male’ fax 3325362; s/d with fan US$30/40, with air-con US$40/50; clean, comfortable rooms with bathroom, but a bit tired (we heard a UN functionary
remains the cheapest place in the country to a) In the back streets at the east end of hot water, phone, satellite TV and air-con; complaining about his at reception) and the
stay. There’s not an enormous choice and town, Extra Haven attracts a mixed clien- some have a balcony. A couple of two-room furniture distinctly garish, but this remains a
no real top end – even the more expensive tele of visiting workers and budget travel- apartments accommodate four people. Day popular choice with the NGO sector.
hotels are not world class, and there are no lers. The rooms with air-con are small and rooms for transit passengers start at US$39. Kam Hotel (Map p94; %3320611; Ameer Ahmed
international hotel groups represented. nothing fancy, and the fan-cooled rooms City Palace (Map p94; % 3333990; citymale@ Magu; s/d from US$75/90;a) One of three high-
are even smaller and plainer, but they’re all dhivehinet.net.mv; Filigas Higun; s/d/tr US$60/75/100; rise top-end hotels near the Male’ water-
Budget clean and have bathrooms. Some have an ai) There are some very nice touches front, the Kam has smart and comfortable
West Inn (Map pp90-1; %3317152; Majeedee Magu; outlook over the town. There’s satellite TV at this midrange hotel that overlooks the rooms, a notch better than its rivals. It’s
s/d with fan US$27/35) A new place with small, in the lobby and fresh water is available. football field: free Internet is available for well located, with helpful staff, and is very
clean, dark rooms, the West Inn is off a Athama Palace Hotel (Map p94; % 3313118; guests and two bottles of fresh water a day popular with businesspeople.
narrow balcony at the far end Majeedee [email protected]; Majeedee Magu; s/d US$40/55; suggest more than the usual thought for the Nasandhura Palace Hotel (Map p94; %3323380;
Magu. Rooms have quite good bathrooms, a) It’s hard to imagine anything less pa- guests. Rooms are basic but comfortable, www.nasandhurapalace.com; Boduthakurufaanu Magu; s/d
but no other comforts. Room rates do not latial, but the rooms are surprisingly spa- and this area of town is lovely and relaxed, US$82/97;a) This superbly located hotel,
include breakfast. cious and the location is perfectly fine. a short stroll from the artificial beach. which is opposite the airport ferry jetty,
Male’ Tour Inn (Map pp90-1; %3326220; Shaheed There is a whiff of charm created by the Vilingili View Inn (Map pp90-1; % 3318696; has the advantage of feeling like a social
Ali Higun; s/d US$28/40; a) Small, unattractive Maldivian art and the fish chart–strewn [email protected]; Majeedee Magu; standard s/d hub – people pack out its popular garden
rooms come with cleanish bathrooms. Also walls throughout. US$65/75, deluxe US$60/75; ai) At the far west restaurant, Trends, day and night, and the
at the west end of the island, it’s mainly Maagiri Lodge (Map p94; % 3322576; www end of Majeedee Magu, this inn has only a staff are very welcoming. The rooms are
used by visiting workers. Upgraded rooms .maagirilodge.com.mv; Boduthakurufaanu Magu; s/d couple of rooms with views over the water comfortable, if a little dated, and each has
including breakfast come for an extra US$46/56; a ) This charming little place to Viligili island – most have no outlook a minibar, a phone and a bathtub. Some of
US$10. quickly grows on you. Functional rooms at all, but they are extremely pleasant and the upstairs rooms have a view of the sea (if
Blue Diamond Guesthouse (Map pp90-1; with an en suite and TV are perfectly OK, well designed, including some interesting you stand on tiptoes).
% 3326125; fax 3316404; Badifasgandu Magu; s/d but it’s the staff that make you feel welcome. split-floor rooms. It’s not convenient for Mookai Hotel (Map p94; % 3338811; mookai@
with fan US$30/40) On a small street south of The breakfast is one of the best in town and access to the town centre, but it has wi-fi dhivehinet.net.mv; Meheli Goalhi; s/d US$92/109; as)
Majeedee Magu, the Blue Diamond has the excellent location makes this a great throughout and is quirkily attractive. One of the top hotels in town, the Mookai
 100 MA L E ’ • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MA L E ’ • • E a t i n g 101

has a great location just seconds from the times, generally with a male companion, a charming garden and an air-conditioned,
MALE’

MALE’
waterfront, rooms with great views on the and there’s no problem. Some traditional stylish dark-wood interior. The menu is a THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
higher floors. And, up on the roof, there teashops have broadened the menus, in- typical combination of Italian, Indonesian, Red Zanzibar (Map p94; % 3340951; Bodu-
is a small but effective swimming pool to stalled air-conditioning and improved American and Indian cuisines. thakurufaanu Magu; mains Rf60) This relative
cool down in. Rooms are small but clean service – you should feel quite comfort- Shell Beans (Map p94; %3333686; Boduthaku- newcomer to the city’s dining scene is
and well furnished. Breakfast is served able in these places. Teashops are a great rufaanu Magu; sandwiches Rf30) More a coffee about as hip as Male’ restaurants get and
over at the sister Kam Hotel opposite. It’s place to meet local people, and they’re very bar than a restaurant, Shell Beans serves it’s highly recommended. The very funky
recommended. cheap. A bigger and slightly better teashop a good range of tasty pastries, sandwiches two-floor open-air restaurant and bar of-
Hulhule’ Island Hotel (Map p105; %3330888; might be called a café or ‘hotel’. and snacks as well good coffee. The fresh fers great views towards the open-air
www.hih.com.mv; Hulhule’ island; s & d US$254, ste Teashops have their goodies displayed bread and cakes come daily from the Ban- beach and the opulent traditional wooden
US$400; ais) Certainly the priciest hotel on a counter behind a glass screen, and dos resort bakery. This is a fixture among furnishings have a distinctly boutique feel
in the area, the Hulhule’ Island is on the customers line up and choose, cafeteria travellers and expats and a good place to to them. The menu is by far the most in-
airport island, a 10-minute dhoni ride from style – if you don’t know what to ask for, meet them. teresting in the city, taking in a variety of
Male’. Very convenient for air crews, busi- just point. Tea costs around Rf2 and the Seagull Cafe (Map p94; %3323792; cnr Chandanee delicious devilled fish, excellent salads and
ness people travelling all over the Maldives hedhikaa (‘short eats’; finger food snacks) Magu & Fareedhee Magu; mains Rf50) One of the most sublime desserts. There’s free Internet in
and those in transit, it’s a well-run busi- from Rf1 to Rf3. You can fill yourself for pleasant and popular places, the Seagull the bar downstairs and a cool crowd there
ness hotel with clean and spacious rooms under Rf10. At meal times they also serve boasts a delightfully shaded outdoor eating throughout the day.
(most of which have great sea views), and ‘long eats’, such as soups, curried fish and area and a delicious American-style menu
the only hotel in Male’ serving alcohol, for roshi (unleavened bread). A good meal with a kicking club sandwich. There’s also
which expats and visitors alike frequently costs from Rf12 to Rf25. a rightly popular gelataria attached, serving machine, and you can get a good cup of
make the pilgrimage across the lagoon. The Teashops open as early as 5am and close up the city’s best ice cream. coffee, a cappuccino or a café latte almost
pool is another great attraction – it’s by far as late as 1am, particularly around the port City Snacks (Map p94; %3349302; Boduthakuru- anywhere.
the nicest in Male’. Many transit passen- area where they cater to fishermen. During faanu Magu; sandwiches Rf25) This convivial water- Thai Wok (Map p94; %3310007; Ameer Ahmed
gers take a room on a ‘day use’ basis (until Ramazan they’re open till 2am or even later, front place is a popular meeting place after Magu; mains Rf35-50; a) Quite formal by local
11pm) for US$155. but closed during the day. work and its few tables are always busy with standards – bow-tied waiters fall over them-
Queen of the Night (Map p94; Boduthakurufaanu coffee-drinking locals and people picking selves to assist you, often outnumbering the
Magu) A very popular spot facing the water- up sandwiches on the go. diners – Thai Wok has some of the best
THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE front near the airport ferry, the Queen has Salsa Café (Map p94; %3310319; Keneree Magu; food in town, serving from a huge menu of
Candies (Map p94; % 3310220; candies@ tables next to the street where men play car- mains Rf40) The Salsa is similar in style to authentic Thai dishes.
dhivehinet.net.mv; Dheefuram Gholhi; s/d US$65/75; rom (a snooker-like board game) and chess the Seagull – it has an open-air dining area Salsa Royal (Map pp90-1; %3327830; Orchid Magu;
as) Once part of the Kam Hotel next until all hours. The tables in the back and with a garden setting and cooling fans. Sit- mains Rf70; a) Formerly the Twin Peaks Res-
door, this now-independent venture is a upstairs are always busy with guys grabbing uated on a back street near the shopping taurant, this airy, high-ceilinged hall now
great little place – the bar is popular with some hedhikaa. area, it’s a long-standing favourite with ex- serves up Italian and Thai food from two
locals and the swimming pool just next to Buruzu Hotaa (Map p94; Ameer Ahmed Magu) An pats. The menu features Maldivian, Asian separate menus. The restaurant is non-
reception is a great touch. Rooms are small- extremely friendly place packed with locals and European dishes, all well prepared and smoking throughout, extremely clean and
ish but comfortable and the whole place throughout the day. Pick from a big selec- presented. with good service.
feels much more like a big house than a tion of curries and Maldivian dishes and Symphony (Map pp90-1; %3326277; mains Rf40-
hotel. Superb location and the possibility you’ll soon find yourself being befriended. Restaurants 190; a) This long-time favourite for Male’
of a morning swim make this our hotel of Dawn Cafe (Map p94; Haveeree Higun) One of Typically restaurants in Male’ have several residents has dim lighting, chilly air-con
choice in Male’. the bigger teashops in the area, and it’s different cuisines on offer – most popular and a smart look. The menu is compre-
around the fish market. You can get a bril- are Thai, Indonesian, Indian, Italian and hensive and the Indian cuisine is especially
liant meal here. Try it on Friday afternoon American-style grills. Nearly everything good. It’s off Majeedee Magu.
EATING when people come in after going to the is imported, including the prawns and Trends (Map p94; %3323380; Boduthakurufaanu
Rather like the accommodation scene, eating mosque. the lobsters, which will be the most ex- Magu; mains Rf50-100) At the Nasandhura Pal-
in Male’ is perfectly decent without being Anbumaa Café (Map p94; Sayyidhukilegefaanu pensive items. The customers are mostly ace Hotel, Trends is an outdoor restaurant
excellent, but it’s blessedly less expensive Magu) This two-floor, extremely chilled-out businesspeople, young Maldivian cou- offering a varied menu of European, Indo-
than eating à la carte at most resorts. There’s budget snack bar, off Majeedee Magu, will ples, sundry expats and day-trippers from nesian, Thai, Chinese and Indian dishes.
plenty of choice from local cuisine to various rustle up chicken and rice, fish and chips or nearby resorts. Some places have a starchy There’s a huge choice and an equal vari-
Asian cuisines, Italian and American. a bowl of noodles for R20. ambience, with stiff tablecloths and chilly ability in standards – we had a delicious
air-con, but more casual outdoor eating is Chinese meal here and an almost inedible
Teashops Cafés becoming popular. sandwich here on two different occasions.
Local teashops are frequented by Maldiv- Royal Garden Café (Map p94; Medhuziyaarai Magu; None of the Male’ restaurants serve alco- However, it’s always busy and the garden
ian men; it’s not the done thing for local mains from Rf40) Despite its location opposite hol, but some serve nonalcoholic beer for is charming.
women to be in one, but there is no law the southern wall of the creepy NSS Head- about Rf10 to Rf20 per can. Nearly every Olive Garden (Map p94; % 3312231; Fareed-
against it. Foreign women use them some- quarters, this is a fantastic little place, with restaurant has now acquired an espresso hee Magu; mains Rf40-90; a) This is a mainly
 102 MA L E ’ • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D MA L E ’ • • D i v i n g S i t e s 103

Italian restaurant serving pasta and ex- The most popular purchases are T-shirts, airport ferry and get a transfer to which-
AROUND MALE’
MALE’

MALE’
tremely mediocre pizzas in a room with sarongs, cotton clothing, postcards, picture ever resort you want to visit. You’ll need
Arctic air-con. Nothing special at all, but books, small handicraft items (carved fish, to book the transfer in advance and pay for
it remains popular with locals. lacquer boxes, coconut-shell spoons), and it at the resort. Dhonis to/from the airport DIVING SITES
trinkets from India, Sri Lanka, Thailand and dock at the east end of Boduthakurufaanu While the waters around Male’ are said to
Self-Catering Indonesia. Prices are negotiable; they are Magu. This is also the best place to charter be thick with rubbish and wrecked bicycles,
The nearest supermarket to the airport ferry generally cheaper in Male’ than in resorts, a dhoni for a day trip. Boats to Hulhumale’, there is some excellent diving within a short
jetty is the KPS Mart (Map p94; Ameer Ahmed Magu), but more expensive than on village islands. which is the overspill island for the capital boat ride. The Sea Explorers Dive School (Map
which has all the essentials of life on sale. Male’ is definitely the best place to shop and located on the other side of the airport pp90-1; %3316172; www.seamaldives.com.mv; Bodufun-
Better choice can be had at the city’s big- for more unusual antiques and Maldivian island, depart from the brand-new ferry gadhu Magu) is a very well-regarded operation
gest supermarket in the STO Trade Centre (Map craft items – come here to look for old, terminal east of the airport ferry dock. that does dive courses and trips for locals
p94; Orchid Magu), which includes fresh fruit wooden measuring cups, coconut graters, Dhonis to nearby Viligili use the New and the expat community. It costs US$40 per
and veg. These stores are handy for self- ceremonial knives, and finely woven grass Harbour on the southwest corner of Male’. dive including all equipment and boat trip.
catering, which is a sensible option during mats. Antique & Style (Map p94) and Gloria Safari boats and private yachts usually If you do nine dives, the 10th dive is free.
Ramazan. Maris (Map p94), both upstairs on the east moor between Male’ island and Viligili, or A PADI open-water course is US$410, and
side of Chandanee Magu, are worth visit- in the lagoon west of Hulhumale’. Safari- includes dives, equipment and certification.
ENTERTAINMENT ing. For less conventional souvenirs, such as boat operators will normally pick up new Some of the best dives are along the edges
Nobody comes to a dry town for night- giant fish-hooks, boat balers, hookahs (water passengers from the airport or Male’, and of Vaadhoo Kandu (the channel between
life, let’s face it, but despite the worrying pipes) and medicinal herbs, have a look in ferry them directly to the boat. North and South Male’ Atolls), which has
sobriety of the Male’ populace, there’s a the local hardware, chandlery and general two Protected Marine Areas. There is also
surprising amount going on in the even- stores along the waterfront west of the fish GETTING AROUND a well-known wreck.
ings. Dusk is the coolest time of day, and market and down Fareedhee Magu. To/From the Airport Hans Hass Place (also called Kikki Reef) is a
Male’ is popular with strolling couples and The best range of surfboards, accesso- Dhonis shuttle between the airport and demanding wall dive beside Vaadhoo Kandu
groups of friends who promenade along ries and surf wear is available at Atoll Surf Male’ all day and most of the night, de- in a Protected Marine Area. There is a lot to
the seafront and Majeedee Magu until late (Map p94; %3334555; Boduthakurufaanu Magu). Two parting promptly every 15 minutes. At the see at 4m or 5m, so it is good for snorkellers
in the evening. Thursday and Friday nights of the best diving shops are next door to airport, dhonis leave from the jetties just and less-experienced divers when the cur-
are the busiest, after prayers at sundown. each other: Dive Shop (Map p94; Chandanee Magu) north of the arrivals hall. In Male’ they ar- rent is not too strong. There’s a wide variety
There are even sporadic club nights put and Water World (Map p94; Chandanee Magu). Both rive and depart from the landing at the east of marine life, including many tiny reef fish
on, although there’s nothing regular. Keep supply a full range of equipment and are end of Boduthakurufaanu Magu. The cross- and larger species in the channel. Further
your eye out for notices along the seafront, authorised dealers for big-name brands. ing costs Rf10 per person or US$1 if you down are caves and overhangs with sea fans
as such events are always advertised. Several photographic shops stock qual- don’t have any local cash. and other soft corals.
The non air-con Olympus (Map p94; Majeedee ity film – Photo Hi-Brite (Map pp90-1; Fareed- Lion’s Head is a Protected Marine Area
Magu), opposite the stadium, shows Maldi- hee Magu) for Kodak products, Villa Photo Bicycle that was once a popular place for shark
vian and Indian films as well as the oc- (Map p94; STO Trade Centre, Orchid Magu) for Agfa, A bicycle is a good way to get around, but feeding, and though this practice is now
casional Hollywood blockbuster. The city’s and FDI Station (Map p94; Fareedhee Magu) stocks there’s no place to rent one. Your guest- strongly discouraged, grey reef sharks and
other cinema, Star (Map pp90-1; Majeedee Magu), Fuji. house might be able to arrange something. the occasional turtle are still common here.
was closed at the time of research and it Be sure to lock it up and always use a light The reef edge is thick with fish, sponges and
was unclear whether it would be reopening GETTING THERE & AWAY at night. soft corals; although it drops steeply, with
soon or not. Air numerous overhangs, to over 40m, there is
The National Stadium (Map p94; Majeedee Magu) All international flights to the Maldives Taxi still much to see at snorkelling depth.
hosts the biggest football matches (tick- use Male’ International Airport (www.airports.com The numerous taxis offer a few minutes of The wreck of the Maldive Victory is an im-
ets cost Rf15 to Rf30) and the occasional .mv), which is on a separate island, Hulhule’, cool, air-conditioned comfort and a driver pressive and challenging dive because of the
cricket match. More casual games can be about 2km east of Male’ island. Domestic who can usually find any address in Male’. potential for strong currents. This cargo ship
seen any evening in the sports grounds at flights and seaplane transfers to resorts also Many streets are one way and others may be hit a reef and sank on Friday 13 February
the east end of the island and near New use Hulhule’. Male’ is linked by daily sched- blocked by construction work or stationary 1981 and now sits with the wheelhouse at
Harbour. uled flights to Colombo, Qatar, Dubai and vehicles, so taxis will often take roundabout around 15m, and the propeller at 35m. The
Trivandrum and less frequently with Singa- routes. ship has been stripped of anything movable,
SHOPPING pore, Kuala Lumpur, Vienna and Moscow. Fares are the same (Rf15) for any dis- but the structure is almost intact and pro-
Most of the shops selling imported and lo- Charter flights connect Male’ several times a tance. Taxis may charge Rf5 extra for lug- vides a home for a rich growth of new coral,
cally made souvenirs are on and around week with many western European capitals. gage, and they cost Rf20 after midnight. You sponges, tubastrea and large schools of fish.
Chandanee Magu, Fareedhee Magu and don’t have to tip. There are quite a few taxi
Orchid Magu. Many of the tourist shops Boat companies, but don’t worry about the name VILIGILI
have a very similar range of stock, but it’s The airport functions as the biggest trans- of the company – just call one of the fol- Probably the most obvious day trip from
worth browsing in several if you’re looking port hub in the country, so if you want lowing numbers: %3323132, %3325757 Male’ is the short ferry ride to Viligili, the
for something special. to travel to a resort from Male’, take the or %3322454. closest thing Male’ has to a suburb, just
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104 A R O U N D MA L E ’ • • H u l h u l e ’ www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D MA L E ’ • • O t h e r I s l a n d s 105

1km from the western shore of the capital. dives. Here, on the other side of the airport, AROUND MALE' 0 6 km
MALE’

MALE’
0 4 miles
The short boat ride takes you into a dif- 1.8 sq km of reef has been built up to create
A B C D

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ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ
ferent world. Far more relaxed than Male’, a brand new and entirely manmade island – To Huraa
(4km)
Himmafushi
Viligili has something of a Caribbean feel the first phase of an ambitious project to
to it, with its brightly painted houses and relieve the pressure of growth on Male’.
laid-back pace. Here Maleans come to enjoy Sand and coral were dug up from the la- 1 Soneva Gili
some space, play football and go swimming goon and pumped into big heaps on the
Paradise Island
(usually fully clothed after the conservative reef top. Then bulldozers pushed the rubble Baros

fashion typically found on inhabited islands around to form a quadrilateral of dry land

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ὄ
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ὄὄὄ ὄ
here – this is no place to be seen in a bikini). about 2km long and 1km wide, joined by
Bodubados
While it’s still a great deal more cosmo- a causeway to the airport island. It’s built Kudabados
politan than most inhabited islands in the up to about 2m above sea level to provide a
Maldives, if you only visit Male’ and resorts, margin of protection against the possibility Full Moon
this is perhaps the best chance you’ll have of of sea-level rises. Protected
seeing everyday life . There’s nothing much This utopian project began in 1997 and 2 Marine Area

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ὄὄὄὄὄ
Club
to see but it’s a pleasant excursion from now the northern section (about an eighth Kurumba
Faru

Male’. The Symphony Garden, a pretty of the island’s total area) is a fully func- Aarah Village
Protected
outdoor café by the harbour, is the most tioning town, complete with rather Soviet Marine Area
obvious place for refreshments. Viligili is apartment blocks, a school, an Internet INDIAN
easy to get to. Just catch one of the frequent café, pharmacy, an array of shops and a Hulhumale' OCEAN
dhoni ferries from New Harbour on the huge mosque – the golden glass dome of

ὄὄ
southwest corner of Male’ (Rf3, 10 mins, which is visible from all over the southern Giraavaru
Dhoonidhoo
causeway
completed
every 5 mins). part of North Male’ Atoll. There’s even Male' International Airport SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
a surprisingly attractive artificial beach 3 4 Hulhule' Hans Hass Place.....................1 B3
2 Funadhoo
HULHULE’ down the eastern side of the island. Com- Thilafushi
Viligili
Lion's Head............................2 A3
Maldive Victory Wreck..........3 C3
Better known as the airport island, Hul- ing here makes a fascinating contrast to (52m)
MALE' 3
Protected RESORTS
hule’ was once densely wooded with very the chaotic capital – here the planning is Va a d
ho o K a ndu
Marine Areas 1
See Male' Map (p90)
To Gulhi
(22km) Hulhule' Island Hotel.............4 C3
few inhabitants – just a graveyard and a so precise and mathematical you could be
reputation for being haunted. The first air- on the film set of Brave New World. Walk-
strip was built here in 1960, and in the early ing across the acres of as yet empty plots On the island a bus service connects the The island of Dhoonidhoo, just north of
1980s it had a major upgrade to accom- of land towards the tiny conurbation on ferry terminal to the settlement, but most Male’, was the British governor’s residence
modate long-distance passenger jets. Air- the far side is an eerie experience and a people seem to enjoy the 10-minute walk. until 1964. The house is now used for de-
port facilities have expanded to keep pace bewildering glimpse into the future of the taining people who may disrupt Maldivian
with the burgeoning tourist industry and Maldivian nation if sea levels continue to OTHER ISLANDS society (political prisoners to you and me).
now include a sizable terminal, workshops, rise. With so many small islands in the Mal- Slightly further north, Aarah is a small island
administrative buildings, staff housing and When the first-phase land is fully de- dives, it’s not uncommon for individual used as the president’s holiday retreat.
the Hulhule’ Island Hotel (p100; %3330888). Sea- veloped, by 2020, it will accommodate islands to be allocated to specific activities Another 3km further north, the island of
planes land in the lagoon on the east side 50,000 people and have waterfront espla- or uses. One example is Funadhoo, between Kudabandos was saved from resort develop-
of the island. Everyone passes through on nades, light industrial areas, government the airport and Male’, which is used for ment and became the Kuda Bandos Reserve,
their way in and out of the country, but it’s offices, shopping centres, boulevards of fuel storage – it’s a safe distance from in- to be preserved in its natural state for the
also a serious leisure option from Male’ too palm trees, a marina and a national sta- habited areas, and convenient for both sea- people’s enjoyment. It has a few facilities for
due to the excellent swimming pool at the dium. The basic layout has been carefully going tankers and smaller boats serving the day-trippers, but is otherwise undeveloped –
hotel, which is popular with expats who planned, but the details are still flexible, atolls. a small island encircled by a white beach.
come to swim in the pool, drink in the allowing for some natural, organic growth One of the fastest-growing islands in the Tourists come to Kudabandos on ‘island-
bar or enjoy a good meal. The hotel runs through multiple private developments. country, west of Viligli, is Thilafushi, also hopping’ trips from nearby resorts. Maldiv-
a free transfer boat 14 times a day, from The second phase, a long-term proposal, known as ‘Rubbish Island’. It’s where the ian families and groups come on weekends
beside the President’s Jetty (Jetty No 1) in involves reclaiming a further 2.4 sq km capital dumps its garbage. The land is ear- and holidays. The Bandos Island Resort’s Male’
Male’. Day membership that allows use of of land (engulfing all of Farukolhufushi, marked for industrial development, and its office (%3325529) arranges a boat most Fridays
the swimming pool costs US$10; annual currently the Club Faru resort) and bring- three conspicuous, round towers are part of for local people for about Rf30, including the
membership is available. ing the total population of Hulhumale’ to a cement factory, which has just been built. Rf10 entry fee.
around 100,000 people.
HULHUMALE’ To visit Hulhumale’ take the ferry (Rf5,
One fascinating half-day trip from Male’ 20 minutes, every 30 minutes) from the
is to easily accessible Hulhumale’ – or, as newly built terminal next to the airport
many people see it – the future of the Mal- ferry jetty and opposite the Maagiri Lodge.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
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North & South Male’ The island of Girifushi, which has a mili-
tary training camp, is off limits.
Further north, Dhiffushi is one of the
The outer-reef slope of Rasfari drops down
to a depth of more than 40m, but a couple of
thilas rise up with their tops at about 25m.

Atolls most appealing local islands, with approxi-

mately 1000 people, three mosques and
two schools. Mainly a fishing island, it has
Grey reef sharks love it here – you might
see 20 or 30 of them, as well as white-tip
sharks, barracuda, eagle rays and trevally.
lots of greenery and grows several types of It’s a Protected Marine Area.
tropical fruit. Tourists from Meeru Island A curving cliff near a channel entrance
At the centre of the country, the two atolls either side of Vaadhoo Kandu are the home Resort are regular visitors. forms the Colosseum, where pelagics per-
of Maldivian tourism, where the first resorts cautiously developed in the 1970s. Today it’s form. Sharks and barracuda are often seen
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

home to the Maldives’ main international airport as well as to many of the country’s most Sights & Activities here. Experienced divers do this as a drift
DIVING dive, going right into the channel past
famous and best-established island resorts. North Male’ Atoll has been well explored by ledges and caves, with soft corals and the
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
The dynamic national capital, Male’, the economic and political centre of the country, divers and has some superb dives. Some are occasional turtle. Even beginners can do
heavily dived, especially in peak seasons. this one in good conditions.
lies between North and South Male’ A tolls, and yet it’s hard to imagine anywhere much The following is just a sample of the best- As the name suggests, Aquarium (a coral
more pristine than the islands that surround its bustle. Once you leave the area immediately known sites, listed from north to south. rock formation about 15m down) features
around the capital and the airport, the nature of Maldivian geography means that even in Helengeli Thila, also called Bodu Thila, is a large variety of reef fish. A sandy bottom
the most developed part of the country there’s little encroachment of the modern world long narrow thila on the eastern edge of at 25m can have small sharks and rays, and
on most islands. the atoll famous for its prolific marine life. you might also see giant wrasse and schools
Reef fish include surgeonfish, bannerfish, of snapper. It’s an easy dive and suitable for
Some excellent dive sites are found on these atolls, despite the coral bleaching caused butterflyfish and dense schools of snapper snorkelling.
by El Niño. Sites close to Male’ have been heavily used, but in general they are in very and fusilier. Larger fish and pelagics are also Across the kandu from the Aquarium,
good condition. Some of the most interesting sites are on either side of Vaadhoo Kandu, common – sharks, tuna, rays, jacks and a Kani Corner is the start of a long drift dive
resident giant groper. Soft corals are spectac- through a narrow channel with steep sides,
the channel that runs between North and South Male’ Atolls. At the outer edge of the
ular in the cliffs and caves on the west side of caves and overhangs decorated with soft
atolls, the dive sites are accessible from only a few resorts or by safari boat, and you’ll the thila at about 25m. The large hard coral corals. Lots of large marine life can be seen,
probably have them all to yourself. Gaafaru Falhu Atoll, north of North Male’ Atoll, has at formations here are recovering from coral including sharks, barracuda, Napoleon
least three diveable shipwrecks. Some of the Maldives’ best surf breaks are also in North bleaching quite quickly, possibly because of wrasse and tuna. Beware of fast currents.
Male’ Atoll. the strong, nutrient-rich currents. HP Reef, also called Rainbow Reef or
Also called Saddle, or Kuda Faru, Shark Girifushi Thila, sits beside a narrow chan-
This will be where many people experience the Maldives and both atolls are stunning Point is in a Protected Marine Area and is nel where currents provide much nourish-
visions of cobalt-blue water, white sand and island idyll – both worthy introductions to this subject to strong currents. Lots of white- ment for incredibly rich growths of soft,
most beguiling of countries. tip and grey reef sharks can be seen in the blue corals, and support a large variety of
channel between a thila and the reef, along reef fish and pelagics. The formations in-
with fusiliers, jackfish, stingrays and some clude large blocks, spectacular caves and a
NORTH MALE’ ATOLL founded in 1759 by Sultan Al-Ghaazi Hassan impressive caves. 25m vertical, swim-through chimney. It is
North and South Male’ Atolls together are Izzaddeen, built a mosque on the island. The alternative, less picturesque name a Protected Marine Area.
officially known as Kaafu Administrative Many tourists visit Himmafushi (popu- of Blue Canyon is Kuda Thila, which means Also called Barracuda Giri, the attraction
District and the capital island is Thulusdhoo, lation 850) on excursions arranged from ‘small thila’. A canyon, 25m to 30m deep of Okobe Thila is the variety of spectacular
on the eastern edge of North Male’ Atoll, nearby resorts. The main street has two and lined with soft, blue corals, runs beside reef fish that inhabit the shallow caves and
with a population of about 800. Male’ itself long rows of shops, where you can pick the thila. The numerous overhangs make crannies, including lionfish, scorpionfish,
is not the capital as it is considered to be its up some of the least expensive souvenirs for an exciting dive, but require good buoy- batfish, sweetlips, moray eels, sharks and
own administrative district. in the country. Carved rosewood manta ancy control. This site is recommended for big Napoleon wrasse.
Thulusdhoo is an industrious island, rays, sharks and dolphins are made lo- experienced divers. The demanding dive at Nassimo Thila
known for bodu beru (big drums), tradi- cally. If you wander into the back streets, Bodu Hithi Thila is a prime manta-spotting follows the north side of a fine thila, also
tional dancing and a government ware- you quickly get away from the tourist strip site from December to March, with a good known as Paradise Rock, which has superb
house for salted fish. It is notable for to find an attractive, well-kept village with number of sharks and many reef fish. The gorgonians and sea fans on coral blocks,
producing Coca-Cola at the only Coke fac- many modern amenities. soft corals on the sides of the thila are in cliffs and overhangs. Numerous large fish
tory in the world where the drink is made A sand spit has joined Himmafushi to excellent condition. If currents are moderate frequent this site.
from desalinated water. the once separate island of Gaamaadhoo, this site is suitable for intermediate divers, The best time to see the mantas for which
The island of Huraa (population 700) is where there used to be a prison. The surf and the shallow waters atop the thila offer Manta Point is famous is from May to No-
visited by tourists on island-hopping trips, break here, aptly called Jailbreaks, is a great superb snorkelling. Nearby, the Peak is an- vember. Coral outcrops at about 8m are a
but it’s not yet as touristy as other North right-hander, accessible by boat from other great place to see mantas in season; it is ‘cleaning station’, where cleaner wrasse feed
Male’ islands. Huraa’s dynasty of sultans, nearby resorts. also home to some large Napoleon wrasse. on parasites from the mantas’ wings. Cliffs,
 ὄὄ ὄ
108 N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • N o r t h M a l e ’ A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • N o r t h M a l e ’ A t o l l 109

NORTH MALE' ATOLL 0 10 km coral tables, turtles, sharks and numerous per person for three hours, minimum four
0 6 miles
reef fish are other attractions, as are the persons).
To Kaashidhoo
nearby Lankan Caves.

ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄ
A (20km) B C D This is a big, modern resort on a long,
The Protected Marine Area of Banana narrow island. The standard rooms are
Reef has a bit of everything: dramatic cliffs, fan-cooled, but have phones and hot
1 INDIAN caves and overhangs; brilliant coral growths; water; air-con is available in more pricey
big predators such as sharks, barracuda rooms. There are tennis and squash courts,
Gaafaru Falhu OCEAN
and groper; and prolific reef fish includ- a football field, a volleyball court, a small
Gaafaru
ing jackfish, morays, Napoleon wrasse and swimming pool, a children’s play area and

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄὄ
ndu blue-striped snapper. It was one of the first a Japanese-style spa-massage centre.
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

ru Ka

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

Gaafa
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
dive sites in the country to become interna- Fishing enthusiasts can choose between
Aquarium.................................. 1 C4 tionally known. The reef top is excellent for sunrise fishing, night fishing and big-game
Banana Reef...............................2 B5
Blue Canyon..............................3 A3
snorkelling. fishing. Snorkellers can walk out on the
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
Bodu Hithi Thila.........................4 A4 jetty to get to the edge of the house reef,
2 29
Colosseum.................................5 C4
Resorts but for great snorkelling you’ll need to take

ὄ ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Helengeli Thila...........................6 C2
HP Reef.....................................7 C5 Most of the resorts in North Male’ Atoll a boat trip.
6 Kani Corner...............................8 C4
Lankan Caves..........................(see 9) are reached by speedboat from the airport, Plenty of good dive sites are accessible,
Manta Point..............................9 C5 though some of the closest ones use a tradi- and the resort is quite popular with divers
24 Nassimo Thila...........................10 B5
Okobe Thila.............................11 B5 tional and far slower dhoni. Some of the who are catered for by the five-star PADI
13 Protected
Peak........................................(see 4) most distant ones offer optional seaplane dive centre.
Rasfari.....................................12 A4
Marine Area Shark Point..............................13 A3 transfers. Unless otherwise noted, airport Lohifushi is quite a big resort and some-

ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
3
33
transfers to the following resorts are by what impersonal, but you can get a great deal
38 speedboat. here on the rooms (particularly in triples)
3 and it’s great for young divers and surfers.
36
BUDGET When we visited Giravaru (Giraavaru island;
39
NORTH MALE' It’s hard to think of anywhere more down- %6640440; www.giravaru.com; s/d US$125/145; airport
ATOLL 15 to-earth than little Asdu Sun Island (Asdhoo is- transfer 15min US$45; 65 rooms; ais) the resort
34
land; %6645051; www.asdu.com; s/d US$90/130; airport was planning to do a total refit and reopen

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
4
21 Dhiffushi
transfer 1½hr, US$110; 30 rooms). In an age of unbri- in 2007 as a more upmarket place. However,
KAAFU dled boutique luxury this charming resort such claims can often come to nothing, so
Protected
Marine Area retains the type of setting that originally check via the resort website to see if this
22
12 kick-started the Maldivian tourist industry has happened or not! The Giravaru people
4 (72m)
Thulusdhoo
in the 1970s and 1980s: simple rooms free are believed to descend from the earliest in-
30 27 of TV and glass windows, no air-con and habitants of the Maldives, and as such they

ὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄὄ
5
32 an informal atmosphere. are ethnically distinct from the rest of the
Protected
Marine Area
20 1 Divers, couples and families can be seen population. About 30 years ago the number
Huraa
Girifushi
8 RESORTS here in equal measure – there’s some great of people on the island declined to the point
17 25 Angsana Resort & Spa............. 14 A5
7
23 Asdu Sun Island.......................15 C3
surf nearby too and the resort organises where they no longer included the 40 adult
40 Himmafushi Bandos Island Resort................16 B5 trips for surfers to each spot. Beaches are males required to support a mosque, so the
14 37 Banyan Tree.............................17 A5
16
11 35
Baros.......................................18 A5 lovely, with lots of healthy vegetation and islanders all moved to Male’ and Giravaru

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
9
18 10 Club Faru.................................19 B5 huge palms. Much of the resort looks tired, became available for resort development.
Club Med Kani........................ 20 C4
5 Kudabados
Protected
26
Coco Palm Boduhithi...............21 A4 but it’s all part of its charm and if the re- Sadly there’s nothing left from the aboriginal
Marine Area
2
Coco Palm Kudahithi...............22 A4 peating couples here are anything to go by, Giravaran culture on the island.
19 Dhonveli Beach........................23 C5
Protected
Marine Area
Eriyadu.....................................24 A2 Asdu is easy to get hooked on. As the resort was at the time of research,
31 Four Seasons Kuda Huraa........25
Full Moon Resort......................26
C5
B5
Lohifushi Island Resort (Lhohifushi island; it would be hard to recommend unreserv-
See South Male' Hulhumale'
Atoll Map (p129) 28
Male' International Airport Gasfinolhu...............................27 C4 %6643451; www.lohifushi.com; s/d/t US$87/110/150; edly. Admittedly the diving school here
Hulhule' Giravaru...................................28
Helengeli..................................29
A5
C2
airport transfer by dhoni 1½hr, US$50, by speedboat is excellent and extremely friendly, with
Viligili
MALE' Huvafen Fushi..........................30 A4 25min, US$80; 127 rooms; as) is one of the plenty of good diving sites nearby. Yet the
Kurumba Village.......................31 B5
Protected Lohifushi Island Resort.............32 C4
best choices for an active water-sports whole place was pretty average otherwise –
Marine Areas
Vaadhoo Kandu Makunudu Island.....................33 A3 holiday. As well as the usual sailing, wind- particularly suffering from its proxim-
Meeru Island Resort.................34 D3
6 Paradise Island.........................35 B5
surfing and water-skiing, there’s a very ity to Thilafushi, or Rubbish Island as it’s
Vaadhoo
Reethi Rah Resort....................36 A3 surfable left-hand wave off the southeast known to one and all. The main jetty and
SOUTH MALE' Soneva Gili..............................37 C5
ATOLL Summer Island Village..............38 A3 corner of the island called Lohi’s, over- one of the island’s two main beaches look
Emboodhoo
Protected
Marine Area
Taj Coral Reef..........................39 A3 looked by a surfers’ bar and viewing deck. out over the smoking stacks of Thilafushi
Thulhaagiri Island Resort..........40 B5
Other breaks are accessible by boat (US$10 in the distance, while rubbish washes up
 110 N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • N o r t h M a l e ’ A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • N o r t h M a l e ’ A t o l l 111

regularly on the otherwise lovely white Ocean-Pro dive school (www.oceanpro-diveteam opened as the second resort in the Maldives people and to have a huge range of activities
beaches. The tiny swimming pool was also .com) is a large and efficient operation. A sin- in 1972. It has an enviable range of facilities – available. For a romantic break look else-
in a state of bad repair and going unused as gle dive is US$39 with tank and weights only, a 500-seat conference centre, coffee shop, where though; Bandos is not for you.
a result. Lunch and breakfast were particu- or US$42 including full equipment rental, several restaurants, a disco, tennis courts, a Helengeli (Helengeli island; % 6642881; www
larly lacklustre, although there was often a plus US$10 per dive for the boat trip. A billiard room, sauna, gym, swimming pool, .helengeli.net; s/d/t US$145/175/238; airport transfer by
good choice at the big dinner buffet. The US$2 discount applies after seven dives, and beauty salon and spa-massage service. The speedboat 2hr, US$110, by seaplane 20min, US$160; 50
majority Italian guests seem entirely happy there’s a good six-day, no-limit dive deal. An childcare centre is free during the day, and rooms; ais), the most northerly resort
with the experience, however, even when open-water course costs US$619. A whole only about US$5 per hour in the evening. in North Male’ Atoll, is highly recom-
being serenaded by instrumental versions slew of great dive sites are accessible in the With all these facilities, the island is quite mended for divers – almost 40 dive sites are
of Tears in Heaven over breakfast. Let’s channels within 5km. Once known only as intensely developed and resembles a well- accessible from here, and due to the resort’s
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

hope the refit will include a music policy a budget resort and dive destination, Meeru manicured town centre rather than a typi- remote location most of them are used only
rethink. now caters to a wide variety of interests cal tropical island. by Helengeli guests and the occasional pass-
Meeru Island Resort (Meerufenfushi island; and budget levels – it’s a big resort but it’s Sailing and windsurfing are available, ing safari boat. The 2km-long house reef is
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
% 6643157; www.meeru.com; full board s/d/wb not crowded and has retained its personal, along with a full range of motorised water excellent, so you need not venture far for
US$130/155/310; airport transfer 60min, $100, by seaplane friendly feel. sports and an active big-game fishing centre. snorkelling either, and qualified divers can
10min, $185; 227 rooms; ais), a popular and Small, intimate and low-key, Thulhaagiri Fine, narrow beaches surround the island, do unguided scuba dives from the beach.
highly recommended family and diving re- Island Resort (Thalhaagiri island; %6645930; www and the house reef is handy for snorkelling Nearby Helengeli Thila is considered one
sort, has lots of laid-back charm and some .thulhaagiri.com.mv; s/d/wb US$160/170/340; airport trans- and diving. Lots of fish and a small wreck of the best dive sites in the country. Dive
functional style brought about by a late fer 30min, US$80; 69 rooms; as) is an astonish- can be seen here. The state-of-the-art dive costs are around US$60 for a boat dive with
1990s refit. It’s at North Male’ Atoll’s most ingly pretty island with wide, sloping white centre does trips to about 40 dive sites in all equipment provided, or US$50 with tank
eastern point and travelling due east from beaches and a thick vegetation of palms. It the area, and offers a full range of courses, and weights only. It’s US$2 less after the
here you’d hit nothing until Sumatra. represents a great choice for its price range, including nitrox and rebreather training. A seventh dive, and there’s a good six-day,
Meerufenfushi actually means ‘Sweet because although it’s less expensive, its single boat dive costs US$57, including all unlimited dive deal. An open-water course
Water Island’ in Divehi, and the island’s small size gives it a more exclusive feel than equipment and boat charges, or US$49 with costs US$619. The Ocean-Pro dive base (www
wells were used to replenish passing dhonis some of the bigger budget places. Guests are your own equipment. The diving health .oceanpro-diveteam.com) aims for personalised
in the past. The unusual amount of ground mainly German but hail also from Britain clinic here has a decompression chamber service and tries to keep guests with the
water has created a large amount of natural and other European countries. available to anyone who needs it (though same dive guides for their whole stay.
vegetation and now some of the 28-hectare The diving school offers a full open- it’s very expensive). An open-water course The resort was extensively renovated in
island is used for growing fruit and vegeta- water course including all equipment for costs US$520. 2004, and has modern rooms with air-con,
bles. Most guests are from Britain, Germany, US$470, and individual dives at US$37 Bandos caters for evening visitors and hot water and open-air bathrooms. All rooms
France, Italy and other parts of Europe. The each, plus equipment. The problem here day-trippers from Male’, but currently does face the water; the best swimming beach is
resort doesn’t organise much entertainment, is that each piece of equipment you bor- not provide a regular boat – call the resort at the western tip of the island. Helengeli
but the bars are busy most evenings, espe- row is charged separately and therefore if you want to arrange something. Airline is a fair-sized island with plenty of natural
cially because many of the guests are on all- quickly adds up – so if you want to do a lot crews and travel agents often use Bandos vegetation, an uncrowded feel and secluded
inclusive packages. of diving here, bring as many of the basics for short-term stays, as well as guests from accommodation. The restaurant alternates
There’s a huge choice of rooms – from as possible. There’s a good water-sports all over Europe and Asia, so there can be a between set-menu meals and buffets, includ-
standards in a U-shaped block near the centre with catamarans and water-skiing very mixed group here. ing a weekly beach barbecue – the variety
swimming pool, to the Coral and Dolphin available although the small, rather murky Rooms are modern, with red-tiled roofs, of food may sometimes be limited, but the
Suites – both at the end of their own private swimming pool is the only real evidence white-tiled floors, air-con, hot water, hair- atmosphere and service are good. There’s no
jetties and coming with a personal butler. that this is a budget resort despite all other dryer, minibar and phone. Other categories windsurfing, sailing or other water sports,
The house reef can only be reached by appearances. Rooms – like the slightly include the Jacuzzi Beach Villa and the luxu- but a few excursions are offered, including
boat and these leave every two hours to take dated public areas – are in a rustic style rious new water villas, built in 2005. These dolphin watching and trips to the inhabited
snorkellers and divers off to the outer reef featuring thatched roofs and wooden inte- include services such as a private butler, al- island of Gaafaru nearby. Evening entertain-
where the aquatic life is fantastic. riors. The 17 water villas have four-poster though the leap in price is quite staggering. ment is very low-key, consisting mainly of a
All the usual water sports are offered, beds, colourful fabrics and coffee-making The main Gallery Restaurant does three few drinks at the delightful beachfront bar,
fishing trips are popular, and the vast la- facilities – they’re decent, but not especially international buffet meals daily. Other eat- and an early night in preparation for the
goon is perfect for learning sailing and great value at their high-season price. All eries include a fine-dining restaurant, the next day’s diving activity.
windsurfing. Meeru has its own safari boats, meals are buffets, and they’re very good 24-hour Seabreeze Café with à la carte pasta Summer Island Village (Ziyaaraifushi island;
and two- or three-day cruises can be taken for a resort in this range, offering plenty and curries, and the Harbour Grill for steak % 6641949; www.summerislandvillage.com; s/d/t/wb
from the resort. Inexpensive excursions go of variety and quality ingredients. and seafood. The Sand Bar hosts live bands, US$140/210/280/260; airport transfer by fast dhoni 1½hr,
to the fishing village on neighbouring Dhif- One of the largest resorts in the country, disco nights, cultural shows or karaoke sev- US$90; 108 rooms; ai), a long, thin island,
fushi. Those interested in Maldivian history Bandos Island Resort (Bodubados island; %6640088; eral nights a week. This is one of the liveli- is all about affordable fun and wins lots
and culture will also appreciate the small www.bandos.com; s/d/t/wb US$143/175/225/1212; airport est resorts in the country. Bandos is great of repeat visits from German and British
museum at Meeru where there’s a huge blue transfer 20min, US$50; 225 rooms; ais), has de- for families and those who like big resorts holidaymakers who enjoy the laid-back
whale skeleton on display. veloped and expanded enormously since it where there’s potential to meet lots of new approach and profit from the good-value
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all-inclusive packages. The management being completed to make this an excellent are a choice of thoughtfully prepared set water-sports centre offering every conceiv-
has been making an effort to increase the and high-quality resort. This included the menus, served in the delightful open-sided able discipline, tennis courts, baby-sitters, a
vegetation and wildlife on the island – an building of 24 brand-new and rather lovely restaurant. Beach barbecues are a weekly gorgeous spa, two gyms, two pools and an
aviary for rearing parrots was brimming water bungalows, a gorgeous new spa and event and breakfast can be served in your incredible seven restaurants. Kurumba is a
with birds when we visited, and gardeners the re-creation of several stretches of beach room. place for scale and grandeur rather than a
were working very hard on vegetable beds that were washed away by the tsunami. Guests are mainly German, British, desert island hideaway, but it remains a pop-
and planting new trees, all helping to make This resort attracts surfers in big num- French and Italian couples who come to ular choice for both couples and families.
the resort more attractive. bers from March to November – they even relax, or who are on their honeymoon. Once Club Med Faru before Club Med’s
Accommodation is a little spartan but have their own bar area overlooking the Honeymooners from all over the world lease expired, and just beyond the Male’
clean and adequate, all rooms being on the island’s private surf break, a consistent left- have planted the island with memorial trees overflow island of Hulhumale’, Club Faru
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beach and all having an extra bed and a hander called Pasta Point. Outdoor tables with plaques. This has become too popular (Farukolufushi island; % 6640553; www.clubfaru.com;
spacious outdoor bathroom. The units are here are great for a beer and a view of the though, and the management has had to s/d US$190/260; airport transfer 20min US$25; 152 rooms)
tightly packed together, and some rooms surfing action. stop the practice due to a huge proliferation reopened as a separate but similar-style re-
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are in two-storey units. The modern-style The island is small, with scrubby natural of trees growing everywhere. sort in late 2005. It’s all-inclusive and the
water bungalows at the island’s southern vegetation and a few big banyan trees, but There are excellent dive sites in the area, rooms are basic but modern, all housed in
end are a recent addition. They’re no great extensive landscaping is under way around the house reef is great for snorkelling, and an two-storey blocks, not making it ideal for
shakes, with no direct access to the water the main beach, the bar and the swimming introductory dive is free from the small div- peace and quiet or privacy. Eventually the
and just a small hole in the floor looking pool. The beach on the north side of the ing school. Dive groups tend to be small and island will become part of the Hulhumale’
into the sea, but they’re bigger and more island is great for swimming and sunbath- friendly. Windsurfing and sailing are free, as development (see p104) and its future was
comfortable than the standard rooms. ing, as well as being safe for children. The are shorter excursions. If you want a small, not certain at the time of research.
Sand floors in the public areas and new rooms are fully equipped and come in exclusive, natural-style resort, Makunudu is Magnificently laid out with real style and
friendly staff give the whole place a relaxed various sizes, with designs that are more one of the very best in the Maldives. class, Full Moon Resort (Furanafushi island; %6642010;
feel. Meals are buffets with a modest selec- imaginative than at many resorts. Established in 1972, Kurumba Village (Viha- www.fullmoonmaldives.com; s/d/wb US$286/286/418; air-
tion of curry, fish, salads and vegetables. All meals are buffet style and feature a fair manaafushi island; %6642324; www.kurumba.com; s/d/t port transfer 20min, US$45; 156 rooms; ais) has
Weekly theme nights feature Asian and selection of good-quality food. Dhonveli is US$242/253/342; airport transfer 15min, US$45; 180 rooms; the ambience of an upmarket country club
international cuisine. not a big diving destination, but there are ais) was the first resort in the Mal- rather than remote tropical island. This is
The lagoon is wide and shallow, so the lots of good dive sites nearby (the Protected dives. It was completely refurbished in 2003 in part due to its proximity to the capital of
resort is more suited to windsurfing, water- Marine Area at HP Reef is very close). and reopened as a very high-quality place course, but everything here is clearly aimed
skiing and sailing than to snorkelling or Recovery from the disastrous tsunami with a relative sense of history. Some may at the urbane sophisticate anyway, from
swimming. The island has quite good beaches should be complete by the time you read feel its overly manicured gardens and foli- the gorgeously understated public areas to
on both sides, though some stretches are this, and Dhonveli is one of the classiest and age as well as its relentlessly modern archi- the luxurious spa, housed on its own island
protected by somewhat unattractive break- most convenient surfing resorts anywhere tecture combine to make the resort feel a linked to the resort by a footbridge.
waters, which did at least ensure there was in the country. little sterile; others, however, will like its The tsunami hit Full Moon hard, des-
no significant tsunami damage here. The wonderful Makunudu Island (Makunud- grand country-club style – golf buggies rule troying all the water bungalows, although
There are some great dive sites within hoo island; % 6646464; www.makunudu.com; s/d the roads here and the resort is big enough all 52 have now been rebuilt in grand style
about 5km – a single dive with equipment US$220/250; airport transfer 50min, US$120; 36 rooms; for this to be justifiable. and are extremely impressive. The standard
costs US$46; an open-water course costs a) remains one of our very favourite re- Kurumba is the closest resort to Male’, beachfront deluxe rooms are also charming
US$483. The new Serena Spa has massages sorts in the country. Just 6 acres in area, the and as such it caters regularly for business and feature thatched roofs, shuttered win-
available from $30. A daily snorkelling trip tiny island almost looks like it might sink conferences and conventions as well as day- dows and private gardens or terraces.
is included in the package (excluding equip- under the sheer weight of lush vegetation trippers from the capital who come for the The Thai restaurant, Mediterranean
ment), as are table tennis, volleyball and on it – and the surrounding reef is so big renowned restaurants. If you’re sensitive to restaurant and the Italian grill/pizza place
badminton. A decent, economical choice that it’s hard for unaccustomed speedboats aircraft noise, you may find it a little too serve more interesting food than the buf-
and rightly popular with divers. to find their way into the dock through the close to the airport, although Male’ Inter- fets at the main restaurant, so it might be
shallow lagoon. national is hardly Heathrow or JFK. best to take a bed and breakfast package
MIDRANGE Things are extremely tasteful here, but The rooms come in a large range of cat- and bring extra cash to spend in the speci-
Dhonveli Beach (Kanuhuraa island; %6640055; www almost unbelievably low-key as well, with egories – the pool villas being especially ality restaurants, although this will be more
.dhonvelibeach.com; s/d US$165/244; airport transfer individual thatched-roof bungalows hidden impressive, each with its own pool in a expensive, of course.
30min, US$70; 150 rooms; ais ) suffered among the jungle-like foliage. All rooms private back garden. For those wanting to A full range of facilities is squeezed onto
full-scale devastation during the tsunami, face the beach and feature natural finishes, splurge there are presidential villas and the this small island, including an inviting
being on the outer eastern rim of the varnished timber, textured white walls, Royal Kurumba Residence, which should swimming pool which has its own waterfall,
atoll and totally exposed. Buildings and open-air bathrooms, and all facilities except satisfy even the most demanding interna- tennis courts, a gym, spa and business cen-
vegetation were destroyed and the resort the purposefully excluded TV. The service tional jet-setters. tre. There are no motorised water sports,
has been in the process of rebuilding ever is of a high standard and the food is excel- There’s no end to the facilities available, and the lagoon is unsuitable for snorkel-
since. When we visited Dhonveli was up lent, thanks to the French chef. Breakfast from a huge and well-equipped dive school ling. The efficient dive centre charges about
and running again, although work was still and lunch are buffets while most dinners (US$57 per dive with all equipment) to a US$57 for a boat dive with all equipment,
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and US$555 for a complete open-water People who like Club Med tend to love 310/515; airport transfer 45min, US$95; 65 rooms; The island is well landscaped and has
course. Windsurfing and sailing are avail- Club Med – and the excited couples and ais) is a popular and well-run place good beaches and a swimming pool. Some
able, as is big-game fishing. Full Moon is a families at Club Med Kani (Kanifinolhu island; at the northern end of North Male’ Atoll. rooms are a long way from the restaurant,
great choice for a sophisticated break. % 6643152; www.clubmed.com; full board s/d/wb The orange roof tiles here may jar some- and some don’t have much of a view. Activi-
Located right at the top of North Male’ US$155/310/620; airport transfer 30min, $US100; 225 what with the Robinson Crusoe look most ties include gym, squash, badminton, tennis
Atoll, Eriyadu (Eriyadhoo island; %6644487; www rooms; ais), the only Club Med resort visitors expect from the Maldives, but the and billiards – everything costs extra except
.aaa-resortsmaldives.com/eriyadu; half-board s/d/t US$192/ in the Maldives, seemed to be loving every excellent beaches look so good that they darts and table tennis. Snorkelling is excel-
296/399; airport transfer 50min, US$80; 120 rooms; a) minute when we visited. Indeed, you pretty more than compensate. lent in the lagoon and on the house reef,
is pleasantly remote, which is a major in- much have to come through a Club Med Popular with Japanese divers and Euro- which is full of fascinating marine life. The
centive for divers who come here for the package to stay here, as FIT (fully inde- pean honeymooners, the resort offers plenty Delphis dive centre (www.delphis.com.mv) is very
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uncrowded diving. It’s also wonderfully pendent traveller) reservations aren’t even for both: some excellent diving nearby with friendly but not the cheapest around. How-
laid back without the fussy overservice that accepted until 24 hours before arrival, mak- the Blue In dive centre (www.blueinmaldives.com), ever, there are plenty of excellent diving sites
characterises so many Maldivian resorts. ing advance bookings impossible. French including a great shipwreck at 22m at the nearby and the location is unquestionably a
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After a bad fire it experienced at its power guests make up half of the resort’s guests end of the main jetty, and romantic, beauti- highlight of the resort.
plant in 2005, the whole island is up and at any time while Italians are the second fully attired bedrooms for honeymooners; Paradise is a popular, activity-packed re-
running again, having escaped the tsunami biggest group. the beachfront rooms are big, comfort- sort with great beaches. It’s pervaded by a
with only the loss of a few of its sunbeds. The resort is large and well set up for able and fully furnished with TV, in-house sense of the naff, but it’s good value and
The island is full of repeat visitors – the activities with a big pool, diving school and movies, minibar and the works. The 35 always busy.
vast majority of which are German. Chil- water-sports centre, and the place was hum- water bungalows are even bigger and the Understated, sophisticated class jumps
dren aren’t really encouraged as there are no ming with people coming and going from deluxe lagoon villas are especially lovely. out at you from the moment you arrive at
facilities tailored to them, and this leads to a one activity to another when we visited, All meals are buffet, with theme nights Baros (Baros island; %6642672; www.baros.com; s/d/wb
very quiet and undisturbed atmosphere. not to mention the nightly live entertain- featuring Chinese, Italian, Maldivian or US$430/440/742; airport transfer 25min, US$95; 75 rooms;
The island is an oval shape, with a good ment and disco, which make it one of the other cuisines. In addition, a small, à la ai), one of the most popular resorts in
reef all around it, great for snorkelling with livelier resorts in the country (though this carte beach restaurant specialises in Indian the country. Closed for much of 2005 and
turtles and dolphins regular fixtures just is possibly not saying much given sleepy food. Beach erosion is a problem in places, refitted as a result of a long-planned renova-
metres from the beach. There’s no pool but local standards). with beach wideness changing according to tion rather than any tsunami damage, Baros
a spa was under construction at the time Day passes are for sale for visitors from the time of year and somewhat unsightly reopened a magnificently rejuvenated place
of our visit. Male’ – a full pass costs Rf1000 and gives protective walls dotting the lagoon around the same year and is definitely a classic lux-
The Werner Lau Dive Centre (www.wernerlau access to the pool and beaches and a buffet half the island, though there’s an interesting ury resort at surprisingly decent prices.
.com) is a very professional operation. A lunch, while you can also buy dinner passes and accessible house reef on the other side, The centrepiece of the new resort is the
single boat dive is US$50 with all equip- and evening entertainment passes (Rf190). and a good beach at one corner. impressive Lighthouse Restaurant, a white
ment, US$45 with tank and weights only, There are three room categories – the Paradise Island (Lankanfinolhu island; %6640011; circus top–style fine-dining and cocktail
but the six-day no-limit dive package will beachfront rooms cost a little more than www.villahotels.com; s/d/wb US$310/320/550; airport bar establishment, where guests have to
cost US$390 – making it a great deal. An garden rooms, and water bungalows are transfer 20min, US$60; 260 rooms; ais) is some- book and which has the feel of a terribly
open-water course is US$560. even more expensive. They’re all comfort- thing of a byword for massive impersonal exclusive yacht club. Other dining can be
The rooms are divided into standards ably furnished and feature lots of natural resorts in the Maldives, the island offering a had at the far less formal Cayenne Restau-
and superiors. The standards are in a block timber, air-con, a phone and minibar. The huge range of facilities and services to trav- rant, overlooking the reef, where you can
set back from the beach, while the superiors meals are very good with accompanying ellers from all over the world looking for a have your food cooked anyway you choose
are in two-room blocks on the small but wine, beer or soft drinks included in the bargain. Indeed, pulling into the cobalt-blue by the fleet of chefs. All guests are on a
pretty beach. They’re comfortable and with package price. Drinks at the bar cost extra waters of the large harbour, the beaches at bed-and-breakfast basis, allowing them to
considerable rustic charm. (US$3 to US$8). least do live up to the resort’s name. enjoy the different eating opportunities
The island itself is quite heavily devel- The island itself is quite large and well The facilities are all perfectly good, even throughout their stay (although this adds
oped, but the buildings are interspersed vegetated, and the beachside bar and en- if the public areas are rather dated. Extras up quickly of course).
with lots of shady trees and shrubbery, and tertainment areas are particularly spacious. from diving to drinking add up quickly The atmosphere is intimate and quiet,
there are fine, white beaches all around. The wide lagoon is a good place to learn here, so be careful if your package price with children under six not allowed – this
Rooms have polished timber floors, TV, sailing or windsurfing (both included in sounds too good to be true. is upmarket European honeymoon territory
minibar and other mod cons. The sand- the price), but not as good for snorkelling Rooms are clean, with white tiles, white through and through. There’s ‘gentle’ jazz
floor restaurant serves most meals in buffet (though snorkelling trips to other reefs are walls, air-con and satellite TV. Water bun- and Maldivian music three times a week,
style, with a varied selection of European also included). Fitness sessions, one daily galows are a bit bigger but were closed for and that’s about the scope of the nightlife.
dishes, curries and seafood. scuba dive, volleyball and other games and refurbishment at the time of research. Full During the day most people seem to be en-
The usual water sports and (expensive) activities are all included, but you pay extra board is definitely worth it: you get a decent joying diving, swimming and treatments in
excursions are available, as is some low- for excursions and spa treatments. buffet for every meal and the other three the luxurious new spa. The three room cat-
key evening entertainment, but this resort The less exclusive of the two Taj resorts restaurants are nothing to shout about so egories are all beautiful. Even the standard
is mainly for diving, snorkelling and relax- in the Maldives, Taj Coral Reef (Hembadhoo is- you won’t find yourself wanting to eat else- ‘luxe villa’ is a 95 sq metre dark woodwork
ing on the beach. land; %6641948; www.tajhotels.com; s/d/wb US$290/ where that much. of gorgeous refinement with a sumptuous
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outdoor bathroom, while the water bunga- s/d US$833/841; airport transfer 25min, US$99; 48 rooms; (Continued from page 116) least) 109 acres. Most impressively of all, it’s
lows are proper holiday-of-a-lifetime stuff. ai) is a wonderful mix of shameless lux- hard to see that this is land reclamation as it
Baros is one of many upmarket resorts that ury and ecotourism project. Part of the in- from a 60-minute turmeric and honey body has been done so well.
has made a conscious decision not to have a ternational Banyan Tree chain, it’s actually rub to a Hawaiian Lomi Lomi for two. For There are three superb restaurants: the
swimming pool. This is a superbly rejuve- about as un-chainlike as can be imagined. the more active, night fishing, windsurfing, main one, Reethi Restaurant; a chic Japa-
nated resort that has rightly earned a huge Remote enough from Male’ to feel like the sailing and snorkelling are included in the nese restaurant, Tapasake; and perhaps the
following of loyal visitors and is a superb true desert island experience, Banyan Tree price. most magical, the open-air Fanditha, at the
choice for a luxurious romantic getaway. offers a refreshing take on the top-end ex- Angsana, Banyan Tree’s ‘little sister’ northern tip of the island, an informal Mid-
perience given that it doesn’t have many of resort, is just across a small channel next dle Eastern–style restaurant where cuisine
TOP END the features (such as a swimming pool) that door – a boat goes back and forth every from Lebanon to Iran is served on luxurious
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You’ll be greeted with both a scoop of many resorts would take for granted. This is half-hour, allowing guests at each resort to day beds and massive cushions, described
homemade coconut ice cream and an ice- intentional and ties in with the overall guid- enjoy the other’s facilities. by One & Only as ‘shipwreck chic’.
cold towel when you arrive at Angsana Re- ing policy that tourism must be sustainable Redefining the luxury market for the The enormous ESPA-run spa features
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sort & Spa (Ihuru island; %6643502; www.angsana.com and eco-friendly. Maldives when it opened in 2005, One 10 treatment rooms, and is predominated
/maldives; half-board s/d US$759/767; airport transfer 30min, This is a romantic resort, extremely quiet & Only at Reethi Rah Resort (Medhufinolhu by Asian treatments – Ayurvedic therapies
US$99; 45 rooms; ai), a perfect way for the and popular with couples. The most unique island; %6648800; www.oneandonlyresorts.com; s/d/wb and Balinese, Thai and Shiatsu massage,
management to say that they don’t do things feature of the resort is the marine laboratory $900/900/1400; airport transfer by luxury yacht 50min, for example. Other attractions include two
around here like they do everywhere else. on the island. This is no gimmick, but a seri- $100, by seaplane 10min, price varies; 130 rooms; tennis courts and pro-tennis trainers, a su-
Just across the water from its sister resort ous research facility run by a charming team ais) is the kind of place where you perb diving school and a full water-sports
Banyan Tree, Angsana opened five years of marine biologists. Guests are able to help expect to see only movie stars and royalty. program. The house reef is superb and
ago and characterises itself, much like Ban- out in various capacities – from planting Indeed, when we arrived we were immedi- great for snorkelling. Guests from Ger-
yan Tree, by an innovative management their own coral in the coral garden, helping ately asked not to take to photographs, as many, the UK and Japan predominate,
team who combine luxury with thought. It with reef cleans and even monitoring the there were ‘top celebrities’ on the island. many of whom are honeymooners.
has raised its standards and service consid- sharks and turtles kept under observation Reethi Rah (‘pretty island’) is nothing Book as far in advance as you can; it can
erably, although it still generally works out in cages just off the island shore. All of these short of astonishing. One of the longest be impossible to get a room at short notice.
cheaper to stay here than at Banyan Tree. activities are free and marine biology lessons islands in the country, the resort is scattered Reethi Rah remains the most talked about
With its canopy of palm trees and sur- are given twice a week to any guest whose in- with secluded and spectacular villas, 32 of resort in the Maldives, as exemplified by its
rounding a gorgeous white beach, Angsana terest in the sea has suddenly been aroused. which are over water, all offering privacy notice from Condé Nast Traveller, which in-
conforms exactly to the tropical-island stere- The rooms are similarly unique, with and sophisticated luxury. cluded the resort on its 2006 Hot List.
otype and often features in photographs pub- the use of lots of wood imported from Far more so than the other One & Only Huvafen Fushi (Nakatchafushi Island; %6644222;
licising the Maldives. The house reef forms Indonesia; they have a gorgeous feel with property in the Maldives (see p157), Reethi www.huvafenfushi.com; s/d/wv US$1100/1116/1600; air-
a near perfect circle around the island, bril- terrific and unusual outdoor bathrooms. Rah is about glamour and style, and shame- port transfer 30min, US$120; 43 rooms; ais), a
liant for snorkelling and shore dives. Look The tsunami did not affect the island so all lessly so. If you aren’t comfortable with recent Per Aquum addition the Maldivian
near the jetty for the ‘barnacle’, the oldest buildings date from when Banyan Tree first almost mind-boggling pampering and fly luxury market, opened in 2004 to massive
of several metal structures on which a small opened here in 1995. anything other than first class, this probably acclaim, making it onto Condé Nast’s 2005
electric current stimulates coral growth. The house reef is excellent for snorkel- isn’t the place for you. Hot List and generally lauded as a mile-
All nonmotorised water sports are free, ling and diving, but the very best dive sites Rooms have every possible convenience, stone in boutique luxury in the Maldives.
including all snorkelling equipment. The are some distance away on the edges of the and are some of the most enormous in the Understated and more than a little fab-
best dive sites are some distance away on atoll. A single boat dive is very pricey, how- country, beautifully furnished in a modern ulous, Huvafen Fushi is the last word in
the edges of the atoll, but boats take divers ever, at US$98 with all equipment (pack- style that picks and mixes different Asian privacy and modern romance. The rooms
out morning and afternoon. ages of dives become much cheaper); an designs. Some have their own pools. are stunning in their simplicity, space and
The stylish rooms are all decorated in open-water course is US$628. All guests get around by bicycle, although design savvy, all somehow still managing
contemporary style, with black furniture, Guests come from all over Europe and those unable to ride can call club cars from to feature 40-in plasma-screen TVs, Bose
lime-green fabrics and designer bathrooms. Asia, and the superb buffet meals satisfy their reception to take them around – the island is surround systems, iPod plug-in points,
There’s a modern look in the restaurant too, varied tastes. Lunch under the palm trees is a rather too large to be covered comfortably on espresso machines and remote-control
but most guests prefer to eat dinner on the delight, with barbecued fish, succulent steak, foot. There are several gorgeous beaches and everything. The water villas are some of
deck overlooking the sea. The spa consists fresh salads and delicious desserts – even a even a charming canal that was built through the most impressive in the country – each
of eight treatment rooms, almost all dou- cheese platter. The restaurant and bar are the island for the sea to flow through. Veg- with its own sizeable plunge pool on an
bles, and the treatments are almost identical both casually elegant, open-sided spaces etation is improving quickly – with 16,000 enclosed deck overlooking the sea, with ac-
to the unmitigated luxury of Banyan Tree. with sand floors and quality furniture. trees and two million plants planted since cess to the lagoon down a staircase. The
Angsana offers a very Banyan Tree mix of This was one of the first resorts to have a One & Only took over the resort from a low- bedrooms and bathrooms are massive and
cuisine, comfort and indulgence, but it’s spa, billed as a ‘sanctuary for the senses’, where budget, far smaller island a few years ago. To both masterpieces of understatement de-
somewhat more relaxed and informal. Thai-trained therapists offer you everything put this in perspective, the island was just 39 spite including luxuries such as rain show-
The intriguing Banyan Tree (Vabbinfaru island; acres when One & Only got it, and it now ers and the largest king-sized beds we’ve
%6643147; www.banyantree.com/maldives; half-board (Continued on page 125) stands at an incredible (for the Maldives, at ever come across. Linen is from Frette and
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furniture by names such as Frank Gehry – ible Private Reserve, a freestanding lagoon ALSO IN NORTH MALE’ ATOLL
the vibe is architect-designed through and complex sleeping nine people in the lap of Four Seasons Kuda Huraa (Kudahuraa island; %6644888; www.fourseasons.com; 106 rooms; ais)
through. luxury a short boat ride from the island. Badly damaged by the tsunami, the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa Resort was still closed for huge-
Despite this the atmosphere within the All the buildings are made from natural scale refurbishment at the time of research. The Four Seasons brand ensures that this will be
resort itself is informal and relaxed. The in- materials – wood imported from elsewhere one of the most luxurious and stylish resorts in the country, and the Maldivian tourism industry
ternational clientele is made up mainly of in Asia is the main material used – and was waiting with bated breath at the time of writing.
honeymooners and couples, who spend the all villas are as open to the elements as Coco Palm Boduhithi (Boduhithi island; www.cococollection.com) Twinned with next-door Kudahithi,
day by the enormous infinity pool overlook- possible – it’s only the bedroom that is air Boduhithi will reopen in 2007 as part of the Coco Collection suite of properties in the Maldives.
ing the sea, lunching in one of the three su- conditioned, the rest of the villa is open- Coco Palm Kudahithi (Kudahithi island; www.cococollection.com) The smaller of the two islands to
perb restaurants (Celsius for international, air. The attention to detail is incredible have been taken over by Coco Collection, due to reopen in 2007.
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Salt for fish and seafood and Raw for Japa- with luxurious treats everywhere discreetly Gasfinolhu (Gasfinolhu island; %6642078; airport transfer 40min, free; 40 rooms; a) Catering exclu-
nese) and being treated at the spa – unique hidden away under natural fibres in what sively to the Italian market, Mahureva offers transfers, most activities and some drinks included.
for having the only underwater treatment is one of the Maldives’ most environmen- All bookings are by the week, through the Italian tour company Valtur (%in Italy 39-6-47061;
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room in the world, which really is some- tally conscious resorts. www.valtur.it).
thing you have to see on a trip here. The island itself is very pretty, criss-crossed
Diving and water sports are catered for with sand pathways through which guests
amply, and the entire place feels eerily can cycle to the main communal areas – hardly typical of the clientele, the majority of Helengeli and Eriyadu, but most visitors are
empty even at full capacity, such is the way the infinity pool overlooking the beach, whom are honeymooners and smart but not from live-aboard dive boats.
in which the resort has been laid out. This the charming bar and beachside restaurant necessarily plutocratic couples enjoying an
is a great place for a honeymoon or a ro- where elaborate buffets and à la carte menus absolute trip of a lifetime at one of the world’s SOUTH MALE’ ATOLL
mantic break, but families are welcome too. are equally impressive. The diving school most sumptuous and inspiring hotels. Crossing the Vaadhoo Kandu, the awesome
Definitely one of the most amazing resorts allows you to dive from a luxury dhoni channel between North and South Male’
in the country and highly recommended. complete with waiters and a plush leather KAASHIDHOO Atolls, you’ll quickly notice that South
Probably our favourite resort in the upholstered sun deck. The water-sports Though in the Kaafu (Male’) administrative Male’ Atoll has a very different feel from
whole of the Maldives on the grounds of centre offers all nonmotorised sports for district, the island of Kaashidhoo is way out its busy northern neighbour. This is partly
its unique design and utter luxury, Soneva free and the lagoon is great for snorkelling by itself, in a channel between much larger due to the lack of population – there are
Gili (Lankanfushi island; % 6640304; www.sixsenses a little further out by ‘one palm island’ – atolls. The island has a clinic, a new second- only three inhabited islands here, all of
.com/soneva-gili; wb US$1145; airport transfer 20min, US$110; a gorgeous desert island belonging to the ary school, and over 1500 people, which which are on the eastern edge of the atoll
44 rooms; ais) is essentially Swiss Family resort. Staff are positively obsequious – this makes it one of the most populous in Kaafu. and none of them with a big population –
Robinson meets Condé Nast Traveller and is not a good place for those who don’t Some of the ruins here are believed to be and partly to do with the fact that the even
we’re smitten. Closed by the havoc wreaked like fussy and unrelenting service where remains of an old Buddhist temple. Local the uninhabited islands here are spread out
by the tsunami in 2004, Soneva Gili reopened all the staff appear to know your name – crops include watermelon, lemon, banana, and so you really feel that you’re remote
in mid-2005 and is as amazing as ever. but this is the sum total of any gripe we could cucumber and zucchini, but the island is from the hustle and bustle of Male’ and its
Where to begin? All villas (for there are have with this intelligent place. best known for its raa – the ‘palm toddy’ surrounding islands.
no mere rooms here) are over water, ranging When we visited Chelsea FC owner made from the sap of a palm tree, drunk The biggest island in South Male’ Atoll
from the standard Villa Suite that has three Roman Abramovich’s yacht was moored just fresh or slightly fermented. is Maafushi (population 1150), which has
rooms as well as a sea garden, a sun deck and off the island – his family had dropped by Local boats going to or from the north- a prison and a reformatory, providing
bed on the roof for stargazing, to the incred- for the day. An indication of price, yes, but ern atolls sometimes shelter in the lagoon skill training and rehabilitation for way-
in Kaashidhoo in bad weather. Dive boats ward youths. A State Trading Organisa-
on longer trips might stop to dive Kaash- tion (STO) warehouse here buys salted fish
HOW TO SPOT A FASHIONABLE RESORT idhoo East Faru, a good place to see large from the local fishing villages and packs it
In case you have any doubts about where you’re staying, this checklist should help you confirm pelagic marine life. for export.
you’re in the very smartest of Maldivian resorts: Guraidhoo island, which with around 1400
„ You will not be given a fruit cocktail on arrival, but an iced ginger tea, homemade ice cream,
GAAFARU FALHU people is the atoll’s most populated, has a
homemade lemonade or melon juice, served in dainty earthenware cups. This small atoll has just one island, also called lagoon with a good anchorage, used by both
Gaafaru, with a population of 850. The chan- fishing dhonis and passing safari boats. Sul-
„ Exclusively dark wood interiors, no light wood whatsoever. nel to the north of the atoll, Kaashidhoo Kuda tans from Male’ sought refuge here during
„ Infinity pools all the way, hopefully even a private one for your own sun deck. Kandu, has long been a shipping lane, and rebellions from as early as the 17th century.
„ No glass floors in water villas – you should have your own sea garden or at least a staircase
several vessels have veered off course and fin- Island-hopping visitors come here from the
into the sea from your veranda. ished on the hidden reefs of Gaafaru Falhu. resorts, and a score or so of shops sell them
There are three diveable wrecks – SS Seagull souvenirs, sarongs and cool drinks.
„ You have more towels than you know what to do with in your room. (1879), Erlangen (1894) and Lady Christine The island of Gulhi, north of Maafushi,
„ Staff members you have never even seen magically address you by your first name. (1974). None is anywhere near intact, but is not large but is inhabited by around 670
„ Every time you leave your room a fleet of staff will swarm in to clean it.
the remains all have good coral growth and people. Fishing is the main activity, and
plentiful fish. Dive trips are possible from there’s also a small shipyard.
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Sights & Activities the entrance and mantas when the current rebreather courses and facilities are available. The island itself is lovely, with white
DIVING is running out. The kandu is a Protected Windsurfing is also popular, and there’s a beaches almost all the way around it and a
Some of the best dive sites are around the Marine Area. good range of excursions to Male’ and vari- gorgeous lagoon in front. The house reef is
Vaadhoo Kandu, which funnels a huge vol- ous other islands. Massage is available at the very good for snorkelling, and is also used
ume of water between the North and South Resorts new, somewhat improvised, spa. If you’re not for night and individual dives. The Ocean
Male’ Atolls. Various smaller kandus channel Most resorts in the South Male’ Atoll are looking for luxuries but an unpretentious Venture dive centre charges US$45 for a
water between the atoll and the surround- reached by speedboat from the airport, but beach and diving holiday, Embudu Village single boat dive with tank and weights, or
ing sea, and also provide great diving. Some some of the closer, cheaper resorts may is a really excellent and enjoyable resort. US$53 with all equipment. Open-water
typical, well-known sites are listed here. offer a slower, less-expensive transfer by Fihalhohi Resort (Fihaalhohi island; %6642903; courses are US$390.

ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
The rugged Velassaru Caves and overhangs, dhoni. Unless otherwise specified, all trans- www.fihalhohi.info; s/d US$125/145; airport transfer Meals at the Palm Grove restaurant are
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

on the steep wall of the Vaadhoo Kandu, fer prices are by speedboat. 75min, US$80; 128 rooms; a), open since 1981, mostly buffet, and for variety there’s a fun
have very attractive coral growth. You may is a charming budget place that retains an theme meal almost every night, from Mid-
see sharks, turtles and rays on the bottom at BUDGET unpretentious appeal, a world away from dle Eastern to Mexican, flambé to fish and
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
around 30m. This dive is not for beginners, Embudu Village (Emboodhoo island; %6644776; www the necessity of having your own butler or chips. Rooms have been progressively up-
but if the current isn’t too strong there’s .embudu.com; s/d/wb US$86/144/250; airport transfer by private plunge pool. Its dual attractions are graded; all have hot water, but a few have

ὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
excellent snorkelling on the reef edge. dhoni 45min, US$40; 124 rooms; a) is a very popu- its low prices and fantastic reef, making it no air-con. Deluxe rooms, in two-storey
Vaadhoo Caves consists of a row of small lar and enduring budget resort with a heavy a great budget diving resort. blocks, have extras like a hairdryer, safe and
caves, plus a bigger one with a swim-through focus on divers and couples. It’s as relaxed
tunnel, as well as excellent soft corals, gor- as its sand-floor reception suggests, and has SOUTH MALE' ATOLL 0 10 km
0 6 miles
gonians, jackfish and the odd eagle ray. If lots of thoroughly unpretentious charm.
the current is strong, this is a demanding This is a resort where people make friends A B C
Hulhumale'
D

ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
dive; if not, it’s great for snorkelling. and socialise without it really being a party NORTH MALE'
Male' International Airport
Embudhoo Express is a 2km drift dive island – it’s just a friendly and straight- ATOLL Hulhule'
through the Embudhoo Kandu, which is forward place. Clearly this is resort is pre- 1
MALE'

a Protected Marine Area. With the cur- dominantly European as, unusually for the Protected
rent running in, rays, Napoleon wrasse Maldives, everything is priced in euros. The Marine Areas
Vaadhoo Kandu
and sharks often congregate around the island has lots of shady trees, some gorgeous 6 4

entrance. The current carries divers along beaches and a very accessible house reef.

ὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
Velassaru 17 22
a wall with overhangs and a big cave. The All accommodation is on a full-board 21
Embudhu Finolhu
speed of the current makes for a demanding basis, with buffet meals. The standard rooms
dive, but also provides the ideal environ- are fan-cooled, but still very acceptable. 10 13 1
Protected Marine Area
ment for soft corals and a large variety of Superior rooms, with air-con, hot water, See North Male' Atoll Map (p108)

fish. The reef top is good for snorkelling. fridge and phone, cost about US$20 more. 2
Also called Yacht Thila, the attraction of There are also 16 deluxe over-water bun-

ὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
INDIAN
Kuda Giri is the hulk of a small freight ship, galows, although budget water bungalows OCEAN
deliberately sunk here to create an artificial are always something of a disappointment – KAAFU
reef. Sponges and cup corals are growing these are bare and functional and you may
on the wreck, and it provides a home for be disappointed if you’re after romance. An SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
morays, gropers and large schools of batfish. ‘all-inclusive’ option, for US$25 per person Gulhiggaathuhuraa Gulhi Embudhoo Express.....................1
Guraidhoo Kandu.......................2
C2
B4
A nearby thila has recovering coral growth per day, includes most drinks and afternoon 3
18
Kuda Giri....................................3 B3

ὄὄὄὄ
and lots of reef fish to be seen at snorkel- snacks. 7 Vaadhoo Caves..........................4
Vaagali Caves............................5
B1
A3
ling depths. Sheltered from strong currents, The food is amazingly good for an inex- 3 Vaagali
SOUTH MALE'
ATOLL
9 Velassaru Caves..........................6 B1
5
this a good site for beginners and for night pensive resort, with a varied, well-presented Maafushi RESORTS
dives. selection and very fresh fruit and vegeta- 8 12 Anantara....................................7 B3
Biyadoo......................................8 B3
Vaagali Caves is an exciting dive and not bles. Entertainment is organised one night 23 Makunufushi Bodu Huraa................................9 B3
especially demanding. It’s in a less-exposed per week, but the main attraction is watch- 11 Guraidhoo 16 Bolifushi...................................10 A2
Club Rannalhi..........................11 A3
location and has many caves on its north ing the sunset from the casual beach bar. Protected
2 Cocoa Island............................12 B3
side, at around 15m, filled with sponges and Diving is popular here, thanks to the very (82m) Marine Area Embudu Village........................13 C2
Fihalhohi Resort.......................14 A4
soft corals. There is good coral regrowth professional Diverland (www.diverland.com) and 14 Fun Island Resort......................15 B4
15
and lots of fish on the top of the reef, much the great dive sites in the area (over 90 dif- Kandooma................................16 B3
19 Laguna Beach...........................17 B1
of it visible to snorkellers. ferent sites are reached on a regular basis). 4 Naladhu...................................18 C3
A central reef splits Guraidhoo Kandu into A single dive is US$46 with all equipment Olhuveli Beach & Spa...............19
Rihiveli Beach Resort................20
B4
B4
two channels, with many possibilities for (and there are good discounts for multidive Hathikolhu Kandu
Taj Exotica...............................21 C2
20 Vadoo Island Resort.................22 B1
divers, even those with less experience. There packages). A full open-water course costs Villivaru....................................23 B3
are numerous reef fish, larger pelagics near US$316 – extremely good value; nitrox and
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minibar. Fihalhohi is a fun resort, and a terraces overlooking the sea and 15 water The extremely friendly Vadoo Island Resort upmarket midrange resort in South Male’
good choice for families, FITs and divers. bungalows – nothing particularly sophisti- (Vaadhoo island; %6643976; www.vadoo.net; s/d/wb Atoll.
For the price range it’s in, Laguna Beach cated here but very pleasant. US$228/272/590; airport transfer by dhoni 1hr, US$50, The main market here is Italian, fol-
(Velassaru island; % 6645903; www.lagunamaldives The PADI dive centre runs trips to the speedboat 20min, US$100; 31 rooms; a) has tradi- lowed by German and a smattering of
.com; s/d/t/wb US$165/175/236/405; airport transfer excellent dive sites in the area and there’s tionally attracted divers, but today it pitches Japanese and British visitors. The rooms
20min, US$60; 132 rooms; ais) punches im- also good diving on the house reef, includ- itself more as a relaxation centre. Diving are spread out along the beach in two-level
pressively above its weight – this is a very ing a small wreck. Diving prices are very remains popular though, mainly because of blocks, but they are extremely tastefully
good, modern resort offering full facili- reasonable. the resort’s great location right beside Vaad- done, furnished throughout with dark-
ties and efficient service. Despite the quite Water sports are also big here: the island hoo Kandu, with access to great dive sites in wood four-poster beds and all featuring
dense development, the island is very at- is surrounded by sheltered waters and is well both North Male’ and South Male’ Atolls. balconies or patios which lead straight out
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

tractive with lots of trees and gardens and placed for cat sailing and not-too-strenuous While Vadoo’s main market is the Japanese, to the gorgeous beaches on either side of
very pretty beaches. Some rooms are in windsurfing. Other activities from water- there’s a strong European presence too. the island. There are also two rings of ex-
two-storey blocks, others are individual skiing to pedalo hire are available. The resort has a wonderfully relaxed feel tremely swish water bungalows stretching
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
bungalows with a split-level design; there The restaurant serves a basic buffet to it, its rustic rooms are simple and clean over the lagoon.
are also water bungalows. All are bright breakfast, set-menu lunch and a reason- and its charmingly old-fashioned water The new Serena spa is popular for its
white and equipped with everything from able buffet dinner. If you want to do a little bungalows – the first in the country, built Ayurvedic treatments, aromatherapy and
coffee-making facilities to satellite TV. snorkelling, diving and relaxing, and you’re in 1988 – have lots of retro charm and fea- massage. Although narrow, the beaches
The main restaurant buffets have a large not looking for high style or haute cuisine, ture traditional furnishings while still being are attractive, and the wide lagoon is good
selection of fine, but not outstanding, Bolifushi is a good choice. extremely comfortable, with great touches. for sailing, windsurfing and being towed
dishes. For a change, try the special Italian On the western edge of the atoll, Club The beaches are delightful, the public around behind a motorboat. This is one of
or Chinese restaurants, or the outdoor bar- Rannalhi (Rannalhi island; % 6642688; www areas are basic but stylish and the new the first resorts to offer kitesurfing lessons
becue/grill. The bar has entertainment al- .aitkenspencehotels.com; s/d/t US$230/264/352; airport Ayurveda Health Centre is the full deal, and equipment. Snorkelling is excellent off
most every night in the form of live bands, a transfer 45min, US$100; 116 rooms; ai ) is an with a doctor on hand seven days a week, the end of the jetty, at the edge of the reef,
cultural show or a disco. Guests are mostly Italian club-style resort. It’s an attractive two treatment rooms, a traditional steam where turtles are common. The first-class
from Europe – a mixture of young cou- island with tall palm trees, fine beaches and bed and a pharmacy. Packages start from Sea-Explorer dive centre (www.sea-explorer.net)
ples, older couples and families. The resort good snorkelling on the house reef, but it’s US$174 per day (minimum three days) and does lots of drift dives in nearby channels,
offers childcare and a children’s swimming so built up that there’s hardly any open a full week’s therapy comes in at US$878. as well as doing wreck and night dives.
pool, as well as rooms with interconnecting space left. The rooms are in two-storey The house reef is great for snorkelling, Overall, Olhuveli offers excellent value.
doors, which are good for families. blocks, modern and well finished with all and qualified divers can make unguided It’s the perfect compromise between
Excellent dive sites are nearby, on both the amenities, and there are 16 spacious dives here. It’s not a great place for begin- budget prices and high standards, between
sides of the Vaadhoo Kandu. The dive cen- water bungalows. The big, airy restaurant ners as rental charges for basics are high – romance and diving. There are some ex-
tre charges average rates. Snorkelling is serves all buffet meals, and they’re very one dive with tanks and weights will cost tremely good week-long accommodation
wonderful on the edge of the house reef, good – plenty of pasta of course, as well as US$33, but to include all other equipment packages offered through its website, so
but it’s hard to get to and subject to cur- other Italian staples. (some of which is hired on a daily rate) will check for these too.
rents. The lagoon is good for learning wind- Many of the guests dive, sometimes set you back an additional US$36! Rihiveli Beach Resort (Mahaana Elhi Huraa is-
surfing and sailing, and excursions to Male’ commuting to the dive sites in South Ari The six days’ unlimited diving deal is quite land; % 6643731; www.rihiveli-maldives.com; s/d/tr
and other islands are popular. There are no Atoll. A single boat dive costs about US$44 a bit cheaper at US$330. Dive courses feature US$261/427/597; airport transfer 1hr, US$145; 48 rooms)
motorised water sports. with tank and weights, US$57 with all very personalised instruction, with one in- is the personal creation of a Frenchman
The atmosphere at Laguna is a little for- equipment. Open-water courses are inex- structor per two students, but you should who lived here for 20 years. He has now
mal, rather than casual and laid back, but pensive at US$375. Snorkelling is good on reserve a dive course at least three weeks moved on, and a legion of loyal guests are
it’s still a good choice for top-end comforts the house reef, especially the excellent coral ahead. An open-water course costs US$625. hoping that the resort will retain its natu-
at a reasonable price. growth on the thila 100m off the service The rooms are all reasonably new, and ral, informal charm and quality. So far, so
jetty. The main attraction though, if it’s quite well finished (no TV or minibar) – good. While the resort remains popular
MIDRANGE your thing, is the programme of animation the cheapest ones are in the Sunrise Wing, with French and Swiss visitors, it’s in no
Bolifushi (Bolifushi island; %6643517; www.bolifushi activities, which start with morning aero- which is a block with rooms on two sto- fear of being overrun anytime soon.
.com; s/d/wb US$208/244/403; airport transfer by speedboat bics, continue with volleyball and dance reys. Each has either a veranda or balcony. Consisting of just 48 little bungalows, all
30min, US$65; 55 rooms; a) is a supremely relax- competitions, and finish late at night with All in all, Vadoo is a highly recommended built in a rustic style from now-illegal coral
ing, intimate and laid-back resort. It’s a tiny amateur theatrics and karaoke. Nearly resort, full of unpretentious, easy-going stone and with traditional thatched roofs,
island peopled with honeymooners, families all guests come through the Italian agent charm. they have all the basics for comfort such
and divers from all over Europe who come Viaggi del Ventaglio (Club Venta), but Olhuveli Beach & Spa (Olhuveli island; %6642788; as hot water but nothing considered su-
for the two exceptionally pretty beaches and there’s also a sprinkling of French, British www.olhuveli.com; s/d/wb US$340/360/495; airport trans- perfluous, such as air-con, fridges, phones
a good house reef close to shore. and FITs. Club Rannalhi has an enthusias- fer 50min, US$120; 129 rooms; ais) is a fan- or a TV set. This is the secret of its suc-
Half of the rooms are fairly uninspiring tic, animated ambience, which will put off tastic resort following major post-tsunami cess – Rihiveli (‘silver sand’) will never be
standards, housed in blocks of two, while most non-Italians, but it’s a good place to renovations and repairs. Its reopening in overrun with your run-of-the-mill package
there are also 13 beach bungalows with come if that’s your cup of tea. late 2005 has heralded the arrival of a very group.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
132 N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • S o u t h M a l e ’ A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H & S O U T H MA L E ’ AT O L L S • • S o u t h M a l e ’ A t o l l 133

The open-air bar has a sand floor and TOP END Other public area features include a DVD The ethos is one of escape and pamper-
shady trees overhead, while the restaurant is Reopening in late 2005 after being dis- and book library, a well-stocked games ing here, at the very southern tip of South
built over the lagoon and has a lovely view astrously affected by the tsunami, the Taj room, the Grand Jiva Spa with six treat- Male’ Atoll.
as well as truly mouthwatering cuisine. Exotica (Embudhu Finolhu island; %6642200; www ment rooms (four of which are doubles) The rooms here are quite something else,
The usual water sports (windsurfing, .tajhotels.com; s/d/wb US$850/900/1000; airport transfer and a gorgeous infinity pool. all over water, but built in the shape of tra-
sailing, canoeing, even water-skiing) plus 20min, US$75; 62 rooms; ais), the most ex- The beach is best on the western side ditional Maldivian dhoni boats. Inside they
tennis are all included in the room price. clusive of the Indian Taj chain’s two resorts of the island; the tsunami decimated the look like a glossy magazine editorial – all
You can wade across to two other, uninhab- in the Maldives, is already experiencing full beach on the eastern side of the island but clean lines, white cotton and dark wood.
ited islands where the resort organises regu- occupancy again. it’s gradually being returned to its original Every amenity you could need is catered
lar barbecue lunches. Regular boat trips to This elegant, understated resort is all condition with the help of sand pumps. All for in the rooms and they are some of the
NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

NORTH & SOUTH MALE’

other reefs make up for the lack of snorkel- about quiet luxury and indulgence. The categories of rooms are supremely smart, best designed and most consciously fabu-
ling sites next to the resort. The main diving resort was one of the original pioneers of many of which have their own plunge pools lous we’ve seen.
destinations are around nearby Hathikolhu fine à la carte dining in the Maldives – the overlooking the beach. The bathrooms in Elsewhere the island is typical of the
AT O L L S

AT O L L S
Kandu, and there’s a small wreck to explore. main Asia-Pacific restaurant here wouldn’t the lagoon villas have wonderful bathtubs luxury market: superb beaches, great div-
A single boat dive organised by the Eurodiv- know a buffet if it hit it in the face. Eve- next to huge windows allowing you to con- ing, water sports and a COMO Shambhala
ers Dive School (www.euro-divers.com) costs about rything here is ordered and individually template the sea as you soak. spa are all absolutely top quality. There’s
US$41with all equipment. An open-water cooked from a sumptuous and expensive All in all, Taj Exotica is a great choice; a fantastic à la carte menu at the resort’s
course is US$355. menu. This is one place where full board even though it’s a small island, with only main restaurant, with emphasis on seafood
With its relaxed ambience, French style would come in handy – the meals here add a meagre amount of vegetation, it excels cooked in the Keralan style as well as other
and natural appeal, Rihiveli is a unique up very quickly. The second restaurant is with its wonderful style, atmosphere and dishes combining Indian and Sri Lankan
and special resort for those who appreciate built out over the lagoon and is only open in superb food. cooking. Alternatively, the COMO Sham-
the simple things. The resort was closed the evenings – one feature here is an open Since its lavish rebranding at the hands bhala cuisine available is for the health-
in summer 2006 for renovations, so it will hole into the water, where fish flock in the of the COMO group, whose diverse ho- conscious (no cow or soya milk here, just
probably be even better by 2007. evening attracted by the light. tels include the Metropolitan in London blended nut milks, honey instead of sugar),
and the Parrot Cay Resort in the Turks featuring raw vegetables and fish dishes for
and Caicos Islands, Cocoa Island (Makunufushi those on total detox.
ALSO IN SOUTH MALE’ ATOLL island; %6641818; www.cocoa-island.com; wb US$680; This is an original, boutique place that
Anantara (Dhigufinolu island; %3341708; www.anantara.com; 110 rooms; ais) Still a full-scale airport transfer 1hr, US$180; 30 rooms; ais) has will thrill anyone wanting a luxurious,
building site when we visited, the Thai Anantara group will have opened its first resort in the been a much talked-about luxury resort. healthy and unusual getaway.
Maldives by the time you read this and it promises to set people talking. The beautiful island,
previously a fairly downmarket resort, has been razed to the ground and is being built from
scratch. The beach villas and water bungalows we saw were stunning and we fully expect this
to become a big success in the luxury market.
Naladhu (Veliganduhuraa island; %3341708; www.anantara.com) Anantara’s second project in the
Maldives and next door to the Anantara resort, little Veliganduhuraa is to be developed into a
super-luxury hotel of the six-star style, provisionally named Naladhu. Work had yet to begin when
we visited, but once it does this will doubtless be something quite special.
Bodu Huraa (Boduhuraa island; %6640172; www.hotelplan.it; airport transfer 45min; 36 rooms) This rela-
tively new resort offers accommodation in over-water bungalows. The resort is 100% booked by
the Italian Hotelplan group and does not accept FITs or anyone who does not come through
Hotelplan.
Biyadoo (Biyadhoo island; %6647171; www.biyadoo.com.mv; 96 rooms) The lease at Biyadoo ex-
pired in 2004 and the resort was still shut for refurbishment at the time of research, due to
reopen in 2007. The island itself is very attractive, with several fine beaches and an excellent
house reef.
Villivaru (Viligilivaru island; %6647070; 60 rooms) The sister resort of Biyadoo is also due to be
re-leased, refurbished and repositioned further upmarket.
Fun Island Resort (Bodufinolhu island; %6644558; www.villahotels.com) This big, popular and well-
run resort had been operating since the mid-1980s but was badly damaged in the tsunami
and was still closed for a complete refit and upgrading at the time of research. The resort will
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
reopen in 2007. restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Kandooma (Kandooma island; %6644452; www.kandoom.info) Badly damaged by the tsunami, charm- only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
ing little Kandooma, a budget island on the eastern edge of South Male’ Atoll, was being totally
renovated at the time of writing and was due to open in late 2006.
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications

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134 www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L 135

Ari Atoll
0 10 km
ARI ATOLL 0 6 miles

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A B C D
Thoddoo

1 Thoddoo Kandu
INDIAN To Male' (45km); Male'
International Airport (50km)
OCEAN
Second only to North Male’ Atoll as the centre of the Maldivian tourist industry, Ari Atoll sits RASDHOO
ATOLL

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to the west of the capital, a vast oval lagoon dotted with reefs and as sumptuously inviting 41
as anywhere else in the country. Like Male’ Atoll, Ari is known universally by its traditional
25 8
name rather than its official name of Alif, a usage we have followed here.
26 13 Rasdhoo
27
To the east, Ari Atoll is separated from South Male’ Atoll by a 40km-wide channel, perhaps 20
Ukulhas
500m deep; to the west, the sea floor drops precipitously to over 2000m. Abundant marine 2 40

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ὄὄ
Mathiveri 35
life in the atoll creates nutrient-rich water that flows out through channels, attracting large Budufolhudhoo
ALIFU KAAFU
creatures from the open sea and divers from all over the world.
NORTH ARI ATOLL
Despite its importance for the tourism industry, Ari Atoll is not a particularly developed
Protected
part of the country. The regional capital, Mahibadhoo, has a population of just 1750 and 32 Marine Area
9
there are only 18 inhabited islands in the entire atoll. The Indian Ocean tsunami did not

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ὄ
30 17
6
massively affect the atoll, due to North and South Male’ Atolls bearing the brunt of the wave. Feridhoo

All resorts that were affected here have long since been up and running again. 3 21
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
A R I AT O L L

A R I AT O L L
19 Broken Rock...............................1 B6
4 3 Dhidhdhoo Beyru.......................2 B6
The 28 resorts here are some of the best-established in the country and include the Maalhos 43 Ellaidhoo House Reef..................3 B3
18
Fesdu Wreck..............................4 A3
Hilton Maldives, frequently winner of various ‘best hotels in the world’ accolades, as well 11
Fish Head...................................5 B4

ὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Halaveli Wreck...........................6 B3
as Dhoni Mighili, one of the most extraordinary resorts in the whole country, where guests Protected Kudarah Thila.............................7 B6
Marine Area
stay aboard their own customised luxury dhoni. Whatever you seek from the Maldives you’ll Himendhoo 5 Kuramathi House Reef...............8 C2
Maayafushi Thila........................9 B3
16
find it in Ari Atoll. 34
Manta Reef..............................10 A5
Orimas Thila.............................11 B3
Panetone................................. 12 A4
THODDOO ISLAND RASDHOO ATOLL 4 Hangnaameedhoo
Rasdhoo Madivaru...................13
South Ari Atoll Cultural Centre..14
C2
C5
Though administratively part of Ari Atoll, The small atoll of Rasdhoo lies off the

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RESORTS
Thoddoo is actually a single, separate, oval northeastern corner of Ari Atoll proper. Angaga....................................15 B5
Kalhuhadhihuraa 12
island about 20km from the northern edge The main island of the atoll, also called Ras- 38 Omadhoo Athuruga.................................16 B4
Bathala.....................................17 B3
of the main atoll. It’s about 1km across, dhoo (population 830), is the administrative Kudurudhoo
Dhoni Mighili...........................18 B3
and has a population of over 1300. The capital of North Ari Atoll, despite ironically Mahibadhoo Ellaidhoo..................................19 C3
Gangehi Island Resort..............20 A2
principal activity is fishing, but Thoddoo is not being within the atoll itself. Rasdhoo Halaveli....................................21 B3
also known for its market-garden produce has an attractive little village with a jun- Hilton Maldives Resort & Spa...22 A5

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ὄὄὄὄ
Holiday Island..........................23 B6
(watermelons and betel leaf especially) and ior secondary school, a health centre, four Mandhoo SOUTH ARI ATOLL Kudarah...................................24 B6
its troupe of traditional dancers, who some- mosques and a score of souvenir shops – 5 Kuramathi Blue Lagoon............25
Kuramathi Cottage Club..........26
C2
C2
times perform in tourist resorts. it’s often visited as a day trip from the 28 Kuramathi Village.....................27 C2
15
There is evidence that Thoddoo has nearby resorts. The island has been settled 33 42
Lily Beach Resort......................28
Maafushivaru...........................
B5
22 VAAVA29 B5
been occupied since ancient times. A Bud- for many centuries and there are traces here 31
36
(67m)
Maayafushi..............................30 B3
29 Machchafushi Island Resort......31 B5
dhist temple here contained a Roman coin of a Buddhist society predating the arrival 10 14 Dhangethi
Madoogali...............................32 A3
39
minted in 90 BC, as well as a silver bowl of Islam. 7
Mirihi....................................... 33 A5
Moofushi................................. 34 A4
and a fine stone statue of Buddha, the head 24
1
Nika Hotel................................35 A2
of which is now in the National Museum Sights & Activities Protected
Marine Area
Ranveli Beach Resort................36 C5
Sun Island................................37 B6
in Male’. DIVING
Dhigurah Thudufushi.............................. 38 A4
Fenfushi
Safari boats can stop here, but usually The medical centre at Kuramathi has a de- 6
44
Vakarufalhi..............................39 B6
23 Dhidhdhoo Velidhu Island Resort...............40 B2
don’t because of the lack of sheltered an- compression chamber and trained hyper- 2 Veligandu................................41 C1
chorages. You could also arrange a day baric specialists. 37 Maamigili Vilamendhoo........................... 42 C5
W Retreat & Spa......................43 B3
trip here from one of the Rasdhoo Atoll Accessible from the shore, Kuramathi Ariadhoo Kandu White Sands Resort & Spa........44 B6
resorts. House Reef is good for beginning divers
 136 A R I AT O L L • • R a s d h o o A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 137

and snorkellers. A small dhoni and a 30m The three resorts share all facilities and Ocean-Pro dive base (www.oceanpro-diveteam.com) circle it. Caves and overhangs around the
freighter have been sunk off the island to so these are great choices if you want a charges very reasonably. The edge of the thila have lots of gorgonians, soft corals and
provide an attraction for divers. Sea fans huge amount of activities and facilities. house reef is not very accessible and is not schools of reef fish. It’s a Protected Marine
and featherstars decorate the reef wall, There’s a marine biology centre here that great for snorkelling. But Veligandu isn’t Area.
while sharks, stingrays and turtles might provides guided snorkelling and diving as primarily a diving or water-sports resort – The well-known Halaveli Wreck was cre-
also be seen. well as giving guests informative introduc- the main attractions are the natural ambi- ated when a 38m cargo ship was delib-
Also known as Hammerhead Point, Ras- tions to various aspects of the natural un- ence, rustic simplicity and fine beaches. erately sunk in 1991. It’s famous for the
dhoo Madivaru is a more demanding dive on derwater world, from coral formation to friendly stingrays enticed here by regular
an outer reef where hammerhead sharks, reef structure. ARI ATOLL feeding – keep your fingers away from their
mantas and other large pelagics are fre- Rasdhoo Atoll Divers (www.rasdhoodivers.com) The geographic entity of Ari Atoll (as op- mouths.
quent visitors. Outside this reef the depth serves all three resorts, charging US$60 for posed to the administrative regions of North Fesdu Wreck is a 30m trawler with a good
drops rapidly to over 200m and the water a boat dive with all equipment, US$52 with and South Ari) is about 80km from north to covering of corals at a depth of 18m to
is exceptionally clear. It’s a fine snorkelling tank and weights only, and US$420 for an south and 30km wide. The most populous 30m. Moray eels and groper live inside
site if conditions permit. open-water course. There’s a four-berth island is Mahibadhoo, the capital of South the hull, which is easily entered and has
decompression chamber on the island as Ari, with some 1700 people. Fishing and good growths of soft corals and sponges.
Resorts well. fish processing are the main industries – Divers can also check the adjacent thila,
Kuramathi Maldives (Kuramathi island; %6660527; The lagoon is the perfect place for there’s a cold storage and processing plant which has hard and soft corals as well as
www.kuramathi.com; 288 rooms; airport transfer 2hr, learning windsurfing and sailing. Motor- here. Safari boats might stop here, but there lots of fish.
US$120; ais) is a unique island in the ised water sports, including wakeboard- are no resorts nearby. Only accessible to Ellaidhoo’s guests, the
Maldives, as it houses no less than three ing, are available. Stingrays come into the Other inhabited islands, typically with excellent Ellaidhoo House Reef has a long wall
resorts, in apparent contravention of the shallows on the beach every evening. All a population of a few hundred, are dot- just 25m from the beach. It has a row of
government’s beloved ‘one island, one in all Kuramathi offers a lot and it’s par- ted around the edges of the atoll. Few of caves with sea fans, whip corals, schools
resort’ policy. In fact, Kuramathi’s three ticularly good for a group of people who them are accessible from resorts, but sa- of bannerfish, Napoleons, stingrays and
resorts are all run by the same manage- might want different things, as you can fari boats may be able to stop at some of morays, and even a small wreck. This reef
A R I AT O L L

ment team and are all owned by Universal easily combine diving, spa treatments and these islands, which are little visited by is popular with night divers.

A R I AT O L L
Resorts, but the island’s size has allowed partying here in a way that few other re- tourists. Quite a few islands have ruins or Overhangs, caves, crevices, canyons and
three separate entities aimed at differ- sorts can offer. artefacts of ancient Buddhist and Hindu coral heads make Orimas Thila an exciting
ent crowds to spring up here. Kuramathi A charming island fringed with white settlements. dive. Marine life includes good growths of
island itself was once inhabited but popu- beaches and featuring a huge 80m sand- Maamigili, in the south of the atoll, has soft corals, sea fans, anemones and clown
lation decline lead in 1970 to the mass bank at one end, Veligandu (Veligandu island; over 1500 people, many of whom work in fish. The top of the thila is only 3m down,
relocation of the remaining islanders to %6660519; www.veliganduisland.com; full board s/d/ nearby resorts, or in tourist shops that cater and can be easily enjoyed by snorkellers
next-door Rasdhoo, leaving Kuramathi t/wb US$240/282/381/425; airport transfer by seaplane to island-hopping visitors. The island of if the conditions are calm. It’s a Protected
ripe for development. 20min, US$175; 73 rooms; a) is all about nature Fenfushi (population 550), on the southwest Marine Area.
Kuramathi Village (s/d US$190/198), the larg- and true escape. corner of the atoll, supplies sand and coral- Also called Mushimasmingali Thila,
est and least expensive Kuramathi resort, Well vegetated with plenty of coconut stone for buildings in Male’ and elsewhere, Fish Head is one of the world’s most fa-
is where the younger, party crowd come palms and located on the beautiful lagoon and is noted for coral carving. Dhangethi mous dive sites. Its steep sides are spec-
to stay. Rooms are basic, high-ceilinged within Rasdhoo, this is a midrange place (population 700), on the southeastern edge tacular, with multilevel ledges, overhangs
affairs with hot showers and air-con but built in a traditional Maldivian style, al- of the atoll, is worth visiting for its Cultural and caves supporting many sea fans and
little else in the way of comforts and are though the rather modern rooms smash Centre. black corals; its top is heavily encrusted
frequented by British and German travel- any genuine shipwreck fantasies before they with anemones. Beware of stonefish. The
lers. The superior and deluxe rooms offer can fully set in. Sights & Activities prolific fish life at this Protected Marine
some improved comforts although they’re There are no TVs in the rooms, which DIVING Area includes fusiliers, large Napoleons,
still fairly average. adds to the ‘no shoes, no news’ atmosphere, All of the resorts have diving operations trevally and schools of hungry barracuda.
Kuramathi Cottage & Spa (s/d/wb US$197/205/285) as do the rustic outdoor bathrooms. There’s and some are known as destinations for The main attraction, however, is the nu-
is in the middle of the island and is a spa a second bed in each room, so each can serious divers. During peak season some merous grey reef sharks, which can be seen
resort whose guests come for treatments, potentially be a twin, double or triple. The sites may have several groups diving on up close. Strong currents can make this a
pampering and total relaxation. There are reception area, bar and restaurant have them at one time, but good dive masters demanding dive, and extreme care should
an incredible 50 water bungalows here, sand floors, cane furniture and a delight- will know how to avoid the crowds at popu- be taken not to damage this superb but
which are beautifully attired. fully casual feel. The meals are mostly buf- lar sites and where to find equally attractive heavily used site.
Kuramathi Blue Lagoon (s/d/wb US$232/240/305), fets, offering a limited variety of very good but less popular sites. The following is a The north side of Kalhuhadhihuraa Faru
at the quiet end of the island, is quieter quality dishes. Guests are mainly German, brief description of some well-known sites is subject to strong currents, so the caves
and more upmarket. It features 20 water Austrian and Italian couples. (from north to south), to give an idea of and overhangs of Panetone are thick with
bungalows (favoured by honeymooners), There are a couple of excellent dive sites the possibilities. soft coral growth. As well as the many
and 36 beach cottages, which are popular nearby, including very common ham- Maayafushi Thila is a classic round thila reef fish, there are giant trevally, sharks,
with families. merhead shark sightings. The Swiss-run known for the white-tip reef sharks that barracuda and turtles. From December to
 138 A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s 139

April, mantas feed around the outside of have to stop over in Male’ until the next many, Switzerland or Austria, but there are ling and diving with a 750m wall, lots
the channel; March to November are the morning for your seaplane transfer. This a few families with young children who of caves, corals, rich marine life (turtles,
best months to see sharks. There’s excellent is usually done at the airport hotel, which get on well here. Most meals are set menu sharks, mantas and eagle rays) and even
snorkelling in light currents. is a good international-standard business (with Indian dishes and lots of fresh fish), a small shipwreck. The Sub-Aqua dive
Also called Madivaru, Manta Reef is at the hotel. However, it’s not the ideal start to a but there are a couple of buffet nights each centre organises a huge array of trips at
end of a channel where powerful currents holiday, so it’s always best to land in good week. reasonable prices. It also runs courses in
carry plankton out of the atoll during the time before dusk. The dive school offers a wide range of marine biology.
northeast monsoon (December to April) – courses, night dives and trips to the famous The rooms were all upgraded in 2001
fast food for manta rays. Mantas also come BUDGET dive sites nearby, all for average prices. and feature air-con, hot water and even
to be cleaned. Reef fish include Napoleon One of the best resorts in the country for Once it was a low-cost divers island, but satellite TV. The main restaurant now
wrasse, snapper and parrotfish, while pe- diving, Bathala (Bathalaa island; %6660587; www now Maayafushi has been upgraded and its serves all meals as buffet style, and there’s
lagics such as turtles, tuna and sharks visit .bathala.com; full board s/d/tr US$170/200/270; airport rooms improved, though it’s still a pretty a coffee shop as well. A new sports cen-
the outer reef slope. It’s for advanced divers transfer by seaplane 20min, US$180; 46 rooms; a) is a laid-back resort. tre has a gym, sauna, spa and facilities
only, but great for snorkellers in the right small, pretty island which has a loyal tribe More than just a typical Italian resort, for billiards, squash, tennis and tension-
conditions. of repeat guests from all over Europe. Halaveli (Halaveli island; % 6660559; www.halaveli relieving Thai-style massage. Water sports
Kudarah Thila is a very demanding but The cabaña-style cottages are sim- .com; s/d US$145/190; airport transfer by seaplane 20min, (like windsurfing, jet skiing and wake-
exciting dive – if there is a current run- ple and rustic, but with all the essentials US$178; 56 rooms; a) may be booked predom- boarding) are provided on a neighbouring
ning, this is strictly for experienced divers. such as air-con and warm running water inantly by package giant Gran Viaggi, but island with a wider lagoon.
There are gorgonians, whip corals, black in their outdoor bathrooms. The style is it’s open to other nationalities and has a It looks like Ellaidhoo will continue to
corals and a whole field of sea fans sway- very much Robinson Crusoe – you won’t fair share of divers and FITs as well. attract real diving enthusiasts, but nondiv-
ing in the current, surrounded by sharks be in danger of any over-attentive pamper- The island is the shape of a crescent ers will now find it’s a more enjoyable, all-
and trevally from the open sea. In the gaps ing here (although there is now a small moon with beaches all around and plenti- round destination.
between large coral blocks, bluestriped spa) and most people come for the superb ful vegetation. The rooms are individual
snapper, tallfin, batfish, goby and other diving. coral-and-thatch bungalows with outdoor MIDRANGE
A R I AT O L L

unusual small fish can be seen. It’s a Pro- The attitude towards diving is extremely bathrooms, air-con, phone and heavy wood Velidhu Island Resort (Velidhoo island; %6660551;

A R I AT O L L
tected Marine Area. passionate here – the dive school actively furniture. www.johnkeellshotels.com; s/d/t US$210/240/300; airport
In the mouth of the Dhigurashu Kandu, encourages beginners to take one of their A full animation program is provided transfer by seaplane 20min, US$200; 100 rooms; a) is
Broken Rock is bisected by a canyon up to full open-water courses, which are spread every afternoon and evening, as befits Ital- a sizable island with some great beaches
10m deep and only 1m to 3m wide. Swim- out over five days and limited to a maxi- ian resorts, and the majority Italian guests and a good house reef. It’s not the best-
ming through the 50m canyon is unfor- mum of three students per group. are into it with enthusiasm. The breakfast looking resort, with uninspired architec-
gettable, but extreme care is needed not Dive costs are relatively low, but more and lunch buffets are a pretty fair selection ture, haphazard landscaping and rooms
to damage the coral formations on either costly if you need to rent full equipment, of tasty dishes with an Italian bias. Dinner with very ordinary interiors, but the food
side. Rock formations around the thila are again making this a good choice for experi- is partly à la carte. and service are quite good. The new over-
decorated with sea fans and superb cor- enced divers. Multidive packages are avail- The house reef is accessible for snorkel- water bungalows are the classiest accom-
als, and are inhabited by abundant marine able. Bring your own wetsuit if possible. The ling at several points and it has a variety of modation available (US$75 extra). The
life. edge of the house reef drops off steeply all fish, but not much coral regrowth. Some Euro-Divers dive centre (www.eurodivers.com)
From May to September, whale sharks around, and is accessible from the beach or of the Maldives’ most famous dive sites are is very professional and enthusiastic about
cruise almost continually along the 10km- more readily from the jetties – it’s a good in easy reach, and the TGI dive centre (www the diving in this part of the atoll. A single
long Dhidhdhoo Beyru on the southwestern dive site in itself. .tgidiving.com) is keen to show them off. Prices boat dive is US$51 with tank and weights
edge of the atoll, which extends from Ar- An immaculate beach goes right around are low, but better deals can be got by book- only, or US$61 with full equipment. To do
iyadhoo Kandu north to the tip of Dhigu- the island, as does the house reef. The good ing online via the diving school website be- an open-water course costs about US$510.
rah island. There’s plenty of fish life on mix of clientele, including more than av- fore you arrive. The six-day, no-limit package is a good deal
the reef, and mantas also cruise the area. erage numbers of FITs (fully independent With a reputation as the most hard- if you dive a lot. Nitrox courses (US$60)
The reef drops off steeply into deep water, travellers) gives the whole resort a very laid- core diving destination in the Maldives, and nitrox diving (US$5 extra) are avail-
and it’s quite exposed and subject to ocean back feel. Ellaidhoo (Ellaidhoo island; %6660586; www.travelin able. Velidhu could be a good choice for
currents. Maayafushi (Mayafushi island; %6660588; maaya@ -maldives.com; s/d US$134/168; airport transfer by sea- keen divers who are not looking for luxury,
dhivehinet.net.mv; s/d US$150/178; airport transfer by plane 20min, US$210, by speedboat 80min, US$115; 156 and its low-season prices can be very good
Resorts seaplane 25min, US$235; 60 rooms; a) offers very rooms; a) has over 100 dive sites within value.
While some resorts nearer to Male’ operate good value for an unpretentious island a half-day trip, making it one of the top Another almost implausibly perfect
speedboat transfers to and from the airport, holiday. The island is small and quite in- choices in the country for keen divers. island, Madoogali (Madoogali island; %6660581;
the majority of resorts use seaplane transfers tensively developed; soft sandy beaches Recently it has upgraded its facilities and www.skorpion-maldives.com; full board s/d/tr US$185/
due to the distances involved. These take surround it, and the house reef is a beauty. added extra services to broaden its appeal, 255/315; airport transfer by seaplane 20min, US$250; 50
anything from 20 to 45 minutes. Bear in Rooms all have basic furnishings, air-con, but divers still predominate. One reason is rooms; a) is richly verdant, has gorgeous
mind that as seaplanes do not fly at night, if hot water, TV, phone and beach frontage. the Ellaidhoo house reef, only a few metres beaches all the way around its circular shore
you arrive after dark at Male’ airport you’ll Most of the guests are divers from Ger- offshore and offering some great snorkel- and is set on a stunning lagoon.
 140 A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s 141

The ethos here is rustic Maldivian relaxa- meals here are also excellent, all served maran sailing and motorised water sports US$335/470; airport transfer by seaplane 25min, US$210;
tion – the coral-walled architecture with buffet style, with quality ingredients and are available too. The beaches are lovely 46 rooms; a) is one of two Planhotel prop-
thatched roofs and wooden interiors may dishes that are not too elaborate but per- around most of the island, but snorkelling erties in Ari Atoll (Thudufushi is the other
have air-con, but that’s one of the few con- fectly prepared. is not good in the lagoon, and boat trips one) and it’s an all-inclusive resort, includ-
cessions to the modern world. The island itself is long and narrow out to the reef edge and beyond are charged ing most drinks, excursions and unmo-
The large majority of guests are Italian, with natural, somewhat scrubby, vegeta- as an extra. Diving is well catered for by torised water sports in the daily rate. The
but the resort has slowly moved from being tion and long white sandy beaches. The the Villa Diving dive school; there are lots air-con rooms are spacious and comfort-
an Italian-only place to having a large range lagoon is wide on all sides, and a good of good dive sites around and a single boat able and all face onto the superb beach.
of European guests, many of whom are re- place to learn windsurfing or catamaran dive costs US$44 with tank and weights, or Guests are mostly from Italy, Switzerland,
peat visitors. sailing. Water-skiing, wakeboarding and US$48 with all equipment. Germany and the UK, in that order, and
The house reef is excellent for snorkel- fun rides on the banana are also available. While Holiday Island is good value the atmosphere is casual. The meals are
ling, and as Madoogali is the only resort in For snorkelling, take one of the free boat for the quality of its accommodation and consistently very good. Other facilities in-
this part of the atoll, there is easy access to trips to the reef edge – these go every af- meals, it’s still a place for a bog-standard clude a Serena Spa, water sports and ani-
lots of little-used dive sites. The Albatros ternoon. The island has always been popu- package break. However, if so-called ani- mation areas.
dive centre charges reasonable rates and has lar with divers, especially for the whale mation and its adherents frighten you like The house reef offers easy snorkelling
professional multilingual staff offering all sharks that cruise the outside edge of the they do us, avoid. and a lot to see, and there are some good
the usual courses. Madoogali is a natural- atoll here from May to November, and Gangehi Island Resort (Gangehi island; %6660505; dive sites nearby, though it’s an hour by
style resort with a European atmosphere the mantas on the west side of the atoll www.clubvacanze.it; 25 rooms; ais) is a gor- boat to the exciting dives on the western
and all-round appeal. from December to May. The very efficient geous, upmarket place that is only mar- rim of the atoll. The Crab dive base (www
White Sands Resort & Spa (Dhidhdhoofinolhu Euro-Divers dive centre (www.eurodivers.com) is keted in Italy through Club Vacanze. FITs .thecrab.com) charges about US$60 for a boat
island; %6680513; www.maldiveswhitesands.com; half- involved in whale shark research. A single cannot stay here (and nor can kids under 12 dive with tank and weights, US$68 with all
board s/d/wb US$275/348/470; airport transfer by sea- boat dive is US$45 with tank and weights for that matter). All stays are all inclusive, equipment and US$600 for an open-water
plane 20min, US$300, by speedboat 2hr, US$156; 139 only, or US$50 with full equipment. An with loads of extras including free diving course, making it not the most competitive
rooms; a) manages to combine all major open-water course costs US$346. Nitrox and excursions – keeping the guests as busy place if you plan to dive a lot.
A R I AT O L L

resort aspects confidently on its lovely 2km courses (US$70) and nitrox diving (US$6 as ever in the inimitable Italian fashion. Athuruga is quite densely developed, but

A R I AT O L L
island; honeymooners are accommodated extra) are available. The island is pretty, with lots of palm trees, it still has lots of palm trees and a good
in the excellent water bungalows, while Villa Hotels have a bad habit of nam- but unfortunately has suffered from sand beach all round – it’s a good-value resort
divers have the pick of lots of great local ing their resorts with such dreadful names movements, so the seafront rooms have no with a mainly Italian ambience.
dives and activities on the island abound – that they seem naff before you even ar- beach and the over-water bungalows are The second Planhotel resort in Ari Atoll,
tennis, badminton, volleyball, the Balinese rive, which is a real pity as Holiday Island surrounded by a sandbar. Thudufushi (Thudufushi island; % 6660583; www
spa, the great beaches and four restaurants (Dhiffushi island; % 6660011; www.villahotels.com Meaning ‘the island of roots’ in Divehi, .planhotel.ch/thudu; s/d US$360/480; airport transfer by
all provide enjoyable pastimes. /holiday; full board s/d/t US$305/315/425; airport transfer Moofushi (Moofushi island; %6680517; www.moofushi seaplane 25min, US$240; 47 rooms) was closed at
The older rooms at one end of the island by speedboat 2½hr, US$140, by seaplane 35min, US$260; .com; s/d US$237/263; airport transfer by seaplane 20min, the time of research for a refit, expecting to
are a reminder that this resort was once 142 rooms) is beautiful – wide beaches, lush US$270; 62 rooms; a) is heavily vegetated with open again in late 2006.
called Ari Beach, a very casual, inexpensive vegetation and a gorgeous lagoon make mangroves. Opened in 1990 under the Ital- The island itself is just beautiful, es-
place with a reputation as a party island. At this every bit the picture-perfect Maldivian ian management that continues to run the pecially the beaches. In high season the
the other end, a long jetty leads to a restau- island. Like most of Villa Hotels’ resorts island today, this is a small, smart resort majority of guests are Italian, but at other
rant and 47 water bungalows perched over this is a midlevel resort but the accommo- where the staff to guest ratio is 1:1. As it’s times there are also Germans and Brits. The
the lagoon, all in sophisticated-rusticated dation is basic, and the whole place rather popular with Italian package travellers, ex- dive centre management and prices are the
nautical style. In between, in price and geo- crowded, though it’s not nearly as awful pect to be animated. same as at Athuruga, but Thudufushi may
graphy, are the ‘superior’ rooms, the dive as it sounds. The resort has spacious, natural-style, be better placed for dives on the atoll edge.
school and spa. The rooms are in blocks of two (some thatched rooms and 17 water bungalows, The house reef is superb, and accessible for
Standard rooms are basic boxes and feel with interconnecting doors for families), all of them filled by Italians. It’s a pretty snorkelling and diving.
somewhat worn, but they’re quite OK – surrounded by cultivated gardens and fitted island, but the beach is suffering from It’s hard not to be charmed by tiny Mirihi
they have air-con and a phone, but no out with everything from satellite TV to hot erosion and some of the breakwaters are (Mirihi island; % 6680500; www.mirihi.com; s/d/t/wb
hot water. The over-water bungalows are water in the bidet. All meals are served buf- unsightly. US$510/550/635/584; airport transfer by seaplane 25min,
among the most charming and unusual in fet style in the main restaurant – the selec- The dive centre offers the full range of US$240; 35 rooms; ai). Named after the yel-
the Maldives. The sloping walls, wooden tion is limited, but the quality is good. The courses and equipment. Nearby Moofushi low flower that grows around the island,
finishes, white fabrics and uninterrupted Italian animation includes disco nights, Kandu has some good dive sites and makes this gem of a resort keeps it simple and
water views make you feel you’re in an old karaoke and fitness sessions, avoided like a great snorkelling trip. The main attrac- natural. The wonderful beach that rings
yacht, but all the modern accessories are the proverbial plague by all the non-Italians tions of Moofushi are the low price and the thick vegetation in the centre of the
provided, from hairdryers to cable TV. The on the island. the diving. island and the fantastic house reef beyond
over-water bar and restaurant also have a Recreational activities such as table ten- Widely marketed through the big pack- are both first class.
shipboard feel, as you eat and drink on nis, badminton, billiards, tennis and use age markets of Europe, Athuruga (Athuruga Redeveloped in classy, contemporary
shaded decks with water on every side. The of the gym are free. Windsurfing, cata- island; % 6660508; www.planhotel.ch/athuruga; s/d style, Mirihi is a tiny island, but 30 of the
 142 A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s 143

rooms are built over the water so it’s not distance away on the edge of the atoll. The friendly. Lily Beach is quite a well-managed food for hungry divers. There’s a swimming
too crowded – in fact, if anything, it feels dive centre charges reasonably for a range resort that offers great value for those who pool and tennis court too. This is a great
positively spacious. of diving packages and courses. Angaga is want to eat, drink, dive and relax. choice for a well-located, easy-going divers’
The beach villas have eye-catching décor, popular with Germans, Swiss, Brits and Vilamendhoo (Vilamendhoo island; % 6660637; resort.
polished timber finishes, white linen fur- other Europeans, many of whom are re- www.aaa-resortsmaldives.com/vilamendhoo; s/d Simple but stylish, Vakarufalhi (Vakarufalhi
nishings, rich red accents and every facility, peat visitors. US$265/340; airport transfer by seaplane 25min, US$210; island; % 6680004; www.vakaru.com; full board s/d/t
including a CD player, TV and espresso Consistently being recommended as 154 rooms; a) is a very lush, well-vegetated US$286/336/454; airport transfer by seaplane 25min,
machine. The over-water rooms have all a great place for a good-value Maldivian island that still has some sense of space. US$225; 50 rooms; ai ) is a fairly run-of-
this plus water views and very private sun holiday, Lily Beach Resort (Huvahendhoo island; The beaches are narrow around most of the-mill place – it offers as good a beach
decks. The main restaurant presents a lav- % 6660013; www.lilybeachmaldives.com; s/d/tr/wb the island, but there’s a big sandy area at as anywhere else (and better than most) –
ish gourmet buffet for nearly every meal, US$203/256/344/356; airport transfer by seaplane 25min, one end, or both ends, depending on the it’s wide, white, soft and surrounds the
usually eaten on a sun deck or on the sand. US$200; 85 rooms; as ) inspires popular- season. The house reef is particularly good island.
Some nights feature à la carte specials or ity that springs from its all-inclusiveness, for snorkelling, and marked channels make The bar and restaurant at Vakaru (as
theme dinners. Another restaurant, on a which generally means guests spend very it easy to reach the reef edge. anyone who’s been here for more than five
jetty over the water, specialises in grills and little on the extras that can be so shockingly The rooms are divided into three cat- minutes calls it) also feature sand floors, in
seafood. expensive at other resorts. egories; all are air-conditioned, spacious, keeping with the natural style. All the in-
Use of the gym is free of charge, as are ac- Lily Beach Resort has all its guests on an clean and comfortable, with a thin tou- dividual bungalows are clean and modern
tivities like board games, windsurfing and all-inclusive price plan, which includes all pee of thatch as a concession to natural inside, with tiled floors, air-con, hot water
kayaking. The small spa has a range of mas- meals, snacks, coffee, beer, wine, whisky, style. The restaurant has a tiled floor, a and open-air bathrooms; on the outside,
sage and holistic treatments. Divers come gin, vodka, rum, water sports (except div- timber ceiling and no walls, so it’s cool they have thatched roofs and a canopy of
here for access to dive sites all over South ing), tennis and one island-hopping ex- and breezy. All meals are buffet style, and palm trees. Breakfast and lunch always
Ari Atoll. The Ocean-Pro dive centre (www cursion. If you’re keen on windsurfing or offer a wide choice of satisfying dishes, offer a big buffet selection, while dinners
.oceanpro-diveteam.com) charges US$39/55 per drinking, this plan could save you US$10 with theme nights for variety and several alternate between à la carte menus and
dive with/without equipment and US$619 or US$20 per day compared with other re- options for vegetarians. The main bar is theme nights featuring Maldivian speci-
A R I AT O L L

for an open-water course. sorts. Most guests are European, including the heart of the resort, and the guests on alities (expect fish and curries) or a beach

A R I AT O L L
Mirihi is remarkable for making the a strong British contingent, and quite often all-inclusive packages make sure it keeps barbecue.
most of a small island without overdevel- families with children (there’s a children’s beating. The house reef has caves, overhangs and
oping it. It’s equally attractive as a styl- play area). There are over 40 accessible dive sites in lots of fish life, sometimes including large
ish resort, romantic retreat or quality dive This is an unpretentious resort and the the area, including some of the very best in visitors from outside the atoll. It’s acces-
island. architecture is neat but nothing fancy – the Maldives. The Werner Lau dive centre (www sible for snorkelling and diving, off the
Angaga (Angaagau island; % 6660510; angaga@ squarish white buildings with green tiled .wernerlau.com) provides equipment, training jetties or off the beaches, by day or night.
dhivehinet.com; s/d US$230/240; airport transfer by sea- roofs. The vegetation is a bit sparse, but and guides at reasonable prices. For non- The Pro-Divers dive centre is in fact very
plane 25min, US$200; 50 rooms; a) was Ari Atoll’s there are good beaches on two sides of the divers there are numerous excursions, a professional, and charges standard prices
first resort and has been operating since island – the main drawback is the circle of tennis court, windsurfing and water-skiing, for diving.
1989. It’s a gorgeous and obvious-choice ugly breakwaters that protect the beaches. but no pool. A good range of excursions is on offer,
island. White beaches fringe the island, Resort facilities include a good swimming Vilamendhoo is efficiently managed, along with a little low-key evening enter-
and the house reef is great for diving and pool, tennis court, gym and games room. but friendly and informal, and it attracts tainment. Vakarufalhi would suit anyone
snorkelling – the corals have recovered Sand floors in the bar and restaurant go a good mix of visitors, mostly from Ger- who wants a comfortable beach holiday in a
from the bleaching well here. The thatch- with the friendly and informal atmos- many, Italy and the UK. It’s recommended natural environment, with great diving and
roofed bungalows, with a traditional swing phere. All meals are buffet, with a varied for divers. snorkelling as a bonus.
seat (undholi) out front, show a little more selection including pasta and some very Fervently focused on diving, Machchafushi Ranveli Beach Resort (Viligilivaru island;
character than many of the midrange re- tasty Chinese dishes. The standard rooms Island Resort (Machchafushi island; %6664545; www %6660570; www.ranveli-maldives.com; s/d US$260/340;
sorts available. have air-con, phone and outdoor bath- .machchafushi.com; s/d US$125/175; airport transfer by airport transfer by seaplane 25min US$205; 56 rooms)
The spacious sand-floored bar and res- room with hot water, while the 16 water seaplane 25min, US$190; 64 rooms; ais) has a seems distinctly overbuilt, with too many
taurant also show some style – they are bungalows are in fact only half over the fantastic array of dive and snorkelling sites rooms on a small island. The main restau-
built in a distinctive fish shape. All meals water, but are markedly larger than the nearby including the extraordinary Kuda- rant is offshore, in an elegant pavilion on
are buffet, and include a good selection standard rooms. rah Thila. The house reef is also superb. a pier over the lagoon, and serves a rich
of Asian and European dishes – seafood The house reef is very good (turtles are Diving is good value, and nearly all the variety of quality meals. The house reef is
barbecues are a regular event. The house common) and easily accessible for snorkel- guests here are divers – mainly from Ger- good for snorkelling, excellent dive sites
wines are inexpensive, but all-inclusive ling – you can do night snorkelling here many and Austria. are nearby, and there’s a lot of white sandy
packages are still good value if you in- too. Keen divers come for the many South The rooms are perfectly adequate and beach. The guests are all from Italy, and
dulge. Entertainment is nothing elabo- Ari dive sites such as the famous Kudra comfortable although guests seem to spend Ranveli offers lots of animation and club-
rate, but there are plenty of water sports Thila, especially in the whale shark season. almost no time in them. The restaurant style activities.
and excursions on offer. Nearby Angaga The Ocean-Pro dive base (www.oceanpro-diveteam does breakfast and lunch buffets and a set Entirely booked through the Italian
Thila is a top dive site, but others are some .com) offers competitive rates and is extremely meal for dinner – nothing special, but good travel company Turisanda, Maafushivaru
 144 A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s 145

(Maafushivaru island; % 6660596; www.turisanda conditioning –just the sea and natural ven- like the Hiltons you see in major cities real attractions at the Hilton are the unob-
.it; s/d US$350/390; airport transfer by seaplane 30min, tilation) to the point that it looks spookily around the world; this is one of the very trusive, efficient and friendly service, the
US$230; 38 rooms) is a modern-style resort like a traditional Maldivian fishing village best resorts the country has to offer. Brit- incredible food and wines, and the ultra-
crowded onto a rather small island. The populated by well-heeled Europeans. ish glamour model and tabloid fixture attractive water villas.
beaches are attractive, but the circle of Tastefully decorated with thatched roofs Jordan might have spent her high-profile At the heart of Ari Atoll, the delightful
sea walls, which protects them, is not. The and handcrafted timber furniture, the vil- honeymoon here, but nonetheless this is W Retreat & Spa (Fesdhoo island; %3329489; www
rooms are boxy and modern, with distinc- las have private gardens and preserve a a classy place and one often booked up .whotels.com; s/d US$816/824; airport transfer by seaplane
tive blue tiled roofs, but comfortable and rustic image – cooling is by natural ven- months ahead. 25min, US$275; 78 rooms; ais), which was
well furnished. All meals are buffet, well tilation through wooden louvre windows; The Hilton actually occupies two islands known as a fairly budget resort for over
prepared and presented. The house reef is the wine cellar is the only place to feature in this atoll – the heart of the resort, with the two decades, has been redeveloped by the
good for snorkelling and lots of fine dive air-con. The meals are Italian/interna- main lobby, restaurants, bars, water sports, W Hotel brand – a boutique, luxury group
sites are close by. But the main attraction tional style and excellent, served in the dive centres and 100 beach villas, is on who is clearly intent on producing some-
at Maafushivaru is the sociable atmos- sand-floored dining room or outside on a Rangalifinolhu; on the second island, Ran- thing very special for its first Maldivian
phere and the lively Italian crowd. seaside deck. gali, are two other restaurants plus a bar, venture.
Dive costs here are much higher than at a separate reception area, and 52 water The resort was still being built at the
TOP END other resorts, but groups are small, atten- villas in their very own class of exclusivity. time of writing and so we were unable
Another Villa Hotels product, Sun Island tion is personal, and the guests can afford A walkway bridge connects the two islands to visit the island during research, al-
(Nalaguraidhoo island; %6660088; www.villahotels.com it. Fishing, windsurfing, tennis and most across a broad lagoon. though it will definitely be operational by
/sun; full board s/d/t US$524/534/721; airport transfer by other activities are included. Guests are With seven restaurants running the the time you read this book. The resort’s
speedboat 2½hr, US$140, by seaplane 35min, US$260; 350 mostly European or Japanese, and value whole gamut of cuisines from local Mal- central concept is aimed at young, fash-
rooms; ais) is perhaps more in the style the privacy that Nika provides. Though divian to Japanese and European, you have ionable groups of friends, couples and –
of the Caribbean than the Maldives – this several new luxury resorts are more sump- plenty of choice. Most amazing is the Ithaa shock, horror – single people. While most
most massive of resorts (the largest in the tuous and have fancier features, Nika is still Undersea Restaurant where diners eat in single people feel a growing sense of nausea
country) is no place for re-enacting Swiss doing the designer desert island thing to a glass-domed restaurant underwater, an and/or exclusion in the Maldives, W is
A R I AT O L L

Family Robinson fantasies – Sun Island is perfection. experience quite unlike any other in the actively encouraging single people and

A R I AT O L L
entirely modern, smart and not a particu- Kudarah (Kudarah island; %6660549; www.club country. Other restaurants at the resort groups of single friends to come here, lur-
larly charming place. vacanze.it; s/d $455/530; airport transfer by seaplane 25min, include the Sunset Grill for fresh seafood ing them with such attractions as a 24-
The rooms themselves are large and have $260; 30 rooms; ai) is a small, elegant lux- (check out the live lobster pond); Vilu Res- hour underground bar (15’Below) where
quality indoor-outdoor bathrooms, bidets, ury resort catering exclusively to the Italian taurant, serving up creative Euro-Asian the party never stops (something hard
minibars, and minisafes. Everything is very market. With white walls, columns, arches fusion dishes; Koko, an outdoor teppan- to imagine in the Maldives, admittedly)
modern although it’s hardly cutting-edge and tiles, even the buildings look Italian and yaki grill; and the Wine Bar, an epicurean and a sociable beach-barbecue restaurant
style and has none of the deeply considered the entire feel is Mediterranean rather than education hosted by the ebullient resident where young, single, well-heeled gorgeous
charm of the true luxury market. tropical. Rooms are large with conservative, sommelier in a climate-controlled cave things can make new friends. Each ‘retreat’
If it’s an activities-packed holiday you quality furnishings, and resort facilities in- surrounded by some 5000 bottles of se- (for these are no mere rooms at 188 sq
want, though, with endless choice, Sun is a clude a tennis court and swimming pool. The lected wines. metres for a standard!) comes with its own
good option. There are 11 bars, five restau- dive centre provides personal service with The rooms are varied and beautifully plunge-pool, day bed and lounge area.
rants and the fullest possible choice of water basic dive costs included in the price. The conceived; the standard beach villas are up Full spa, diving and water-sports facili-
sports, diving, spa treatments, excursions and resort is superbly located just minutes from to 150 sq metres, all are set on the beach- ties complete the picture. It’s certainly an
sports (including a putting range and tennis superb diving at Kudarah Thila. It’s a Club front with sea views; they have outdoor ter- interesting concept and will doubtlessly
court), a video arcade and a good gym. Vacanze resort, and has a sociable atmos- races and outdoor bathrooms as well as sea be executed beautifully by the truly bou-
The Sun Island Diving School is quite a phere, but entertainment and animation are views from the bath. The spectacular water tique W group.
big operation with reasonable prices. Most very understated. The beaches are not great, villas all enjoy their own private terraces, There appears to be at least an interim
dives are done at nearby sites, and groups however – there is only one decent stretch gorgeous wooden interiors and, in the more winner in the war of luxury being waged
can be quite large. Snorkelling is doable at that does get very busy, though this doesn’t luxurious, glass floors. in the Maldives and Dhoni Mighili (Mushimas-
the reef edge off the end of the main jetty. seem to bother any of the numerous repeat All needs are catered to: tennis courts, a mingili island; %6660751; www.dhonimighili.com; s/d
Elsewhere the lagoon is wide, and only visitors. swimming pool, excellent beaches, gorgeous US$1295/2590; airport transfer by luxury dhoni 4hr $400,
good for swimming and water sports. Sumptuous barefoot luxury is the name gardens and two spas offering massages, by seaplane 30min $300; 6 dhoni & room pairings; ai)
Nika Hotel (Kudafolhudhoo island; % 6660516; of the game at the Hilton Maldives Resort & Ayurvedic treatments and beauty-salon is it. The concept is simple – on the island
www.nikamaldive.com; full board s/d/wb US$570/680/750; Spa (Rangali island; %6660629; www.hiltonmaldives service. The over-water spa is especially there are six luxury bungalows and each
airport transfer by seaplane 20min, US$240; 26 rooms; resort.com; s/d/wb US$404/808/1435; airport transfer by serene, with a glass floor looking into the one is paired with a luxury customised
i) is possibly the finest old-style, natu- seaplane 35min, US$270; 150 rooms; ais), the lagoon. All the public areas are superbly dhoni. As well as your standard thakuru
ral resort in the country. Individual villas Hilton Group’s long-standing Maldivian finished with natural materials and an un- (butler; no longer such a status symbol in
are spacious and imaginatively designed in resort. It was established long before the derstated island feel. the Maldives, rather astonishingly) you get
a seashell shape. This is utter luxury, but rest of the international chain gang ar- Diving, water sports, excursions and your own dhoni captain and two crew on
genuinely eco-friendly (no pool and no air- rived. It’s hard to imagine anywhere less light entertainment are all on offer, but the permanent 24-hour alert. You can sleep
 © Lonely Planet Publications
146 A R I AT O L L • • R e s o r t s www.lonelyplanet.com

aboard your dhoni or in your beach bun- courtyards, incredible outdoor showers,
galow – frankly, you can do whatever the bathrooms decked out in metallic slate and
hell you like at these prices. every luxury from Bose surround sound to
Both the dhonis and the bungalows are espresso machines.
incredible pieces of design and craftsman- The island itself is charming, with gor-
ship; 20m-long bespoke crafted sailboats geous wide beaches, a luxurious spa, dive
fitted with an engine for longer trips (your centre, DVD and CD library and a full suite
dhoni can even meet you at Male’ airport of excursions and entertainments that can
so you can step off the plane and straight be arranged whenever a guest snaps their
into your hotel room!), they include all fingers.
possible amenities from king-sized beds to You can’t bring children under 16 here
Smeg kitchens and Philippe Starck bath- unless you book out the entire resort – at
room fittings. They are definitely rather a mere $12,000 per night (understandably
different to the Male’ airport ferry. this is a favourite with celebrities on the
On the island the beach bungalows are run from the paparazzi). For utter, shame-
spread out generously to ensure total pri- less luxury you can’t currently beat Dhoni
vacy. Of the six, four have plunge pools, Mighili, but it’s probably only a matter of
but all are stunning – featuring private time until someone tries.
A R I AT O L L

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147

Northern Atolls

The least developed region of the Maldives, the Northern Atolls are pure tropical island
escapism territory. While traditionally the tourism zone has only ever included the three
atolls directly to the north of North Male’ Atoll, there are a further six even further north
that are gradually opening up to tourism as new islands are earmarked for development by
the cautious central government. These atolls remain almost totally unknown by foreigners,
and this is a great place to visit for a taste of untouched, traditional Maldivian life.

Maldivian history owes much to this part of the country – Muhammad Thakurufaanu, the
man who drove the Portuguese out in the 16th century, was born on the island of Utheemu
in Haa Alif Atoll, which remains a place of historical pilgrimage today for Maldivians who
come to see his small wooden mansion.

There’s also huge diving potential throughout the region; there are known to be wrecks
along the western fringe of the atolls, but these are only now being properly explored and
documented.

In the Northern Atolls there are only 11 functioning resorts at present, making this an un-
crowded and truly remote part of the country to visit. Tourism is slowly set to expand here,
but at the moment it’s still about as remote from elsewhere in the country as you can get.

About 200km beyond Ihavandhippolhu Atoll at the country’s northern tip lie the Lak-
shadweep Islands, which have had a long association with the Maldives. Formerly known as

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
the Laccadives, these islands are now Indian territory, but geologically they are part of the
mostly submerged Laccadive-Chagos ridge that underlies all of the Maldives and extends
down to the Chagos Archipelago.

HAA ALIF The second northernmost island, Uligamu

Traditionally known as Ihavandhippolhu (population 326) is the ‘clear-in’ port for
and North Thiladhunmathee Atolls, the private yachts – it has health and immigra-
very northern tip of the Maldives is gen- tion officers as well as National Security
erally known to one and all as Haa Alif Service (NSS) personnel, so yachts should
Atoll, even though this refers to an admin- be able to complete all formalities here
istrative district that actually comprises the (see p184). The Sailor’s Choice store (on
small, trapezoid shaped Ihavandhippolhu VHF) has basic supplies and some diesel
Atoll and the northern tip of North Thila- (US$0.50/L). Following a feasibility study,
dhunmathee Atoll, which together have the government has decided to establish a
16 inhabited islands and a population of yacht marina in the Northern Atolls, but
just over 14,000. On Minicoy, the largest Uligamu has been ruled out for financial
island of the Lakshadweep Islands, people and environmental reasons.
speak a language very similar to Divehi and The capital island is Dhidhdhoo (popula-
readily understand the Maldivian language tion 3400), which offers good anchorage for
themselves. passing yachts. Huvarafushi, the next largest
 ὄὄὄ ὄ
148 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • H a a D h a a l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N AT O L L S 149

island (population 2800), is noted for its The pampering extends to the Mandara NORTHERN ATOLLS 0 50 km
0 30 miles
music, dancing and sporting activities, and Spa (sorry, the Hideaway Spa by Man-

ὄ ὄ
it also has a fish-freezing plant. dara…pretentious, moi?), the infinity pool, Administrative Districts
The island of Utheemu (population 760) a range of restaurants that will effectively Uligamu Tourism Zone

is the birthplace of Sultan Mohammed serve up bespoke meals 24 hours a day and IHAVANDHIPPOLHU
ATOLL
Thakurufaanu who, with his brothers, a range of boutiques for retail therapy (as Huvarafushi HAA ALIF
overthrew Portuguese rule in 1573. A me- if you haven’t had enough). The pristine Kelaa
ndu
morial to this Maldivian hero, with a small reefs around the island and the untouched Ka
oo Dhidhdhoo
NORTH
THILADHUNMATHEE
h (45m)
museum and library, was opened in 1986. sites further afield make another great rea- nd
lla ATOLL

ὄ ὄ ὄ
Ga Island Hideaway
Thakurufaanu’s wooden palace has been re- son to come here – the Meridis Diving School Utheemu Alidhoo

stored and Maldivians come to pay homage (www.meridis.de) is exceptionally smart with
SOUTH
Faridhoo
Hodaafushi Hanimaadhoo
to the great man. luxury boats and tiny groups, but inevitably THILADHUNMATHEE
ATOLL
Kelaa (population 1900) was the north- expensive. Nolhivaramfaru
Nolhivaram
ern British base during WWII, mirroring To confirm exactly who it’s aimed at, the HAA
(45m)
Kulhuduffushi
Gan at the other end of the archipelago. resort offers landing facilities for private DHAAL

ὄὄὄὄ ὄ
Kumundhoo
The mosque here dates from the end of jets at the nearby regional airport of Hani- Vaikaradhoo

the 17th century. Yams and cadjan (mat maadhoo. Those poor things without their MAAMAKUNUDHOO
ATOLL
made of coconut palm leaves) are the own planes will get their own Island Avia- Kaditheem
island’s products. tion Services charter from Male’, or – eek – Makunudhoo
INDIAN
can even arrive by the daily scheduled IAS
OCEAN
Resorts flight. For most of us, a trip here is just Nalandhoo

ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
In the increasingly unsubtle war of lux- a fantasy, but if it’s anonymous, boutique Narudhoo
ury being waged by major hotel brands luxury and pampering you’re after this is NORTH
Maakadoodhoo

in the Maldives, there’s one place con- the place to come. MILADHUNMADULU
ATOLL
SHAVIYANI
Funadhoo
(82m)
spicuous in its silence and relatively Alidhoo was allocated in 2004 for de-
rarely mentioned by the media – Island velopment in the near future as the atoll’s
Hideaway (Dhonakhli Island; % 6501515; www second island resort.
Dholhiyadhoo
.island-hideaway.com; s/d/wb US$810/810/1930; airport Alifushi
transfer by plane then speedboat 65 mins, $275; 43 rooms; HAA DHAAL SOUTH
MILADHUNMADULU
ais), which, true to its name, is lo- Haa Dhaal is an administrative district com- ATOLL
Landhoo
cated about as remotely as you can imagine prising some 17,000 people spread over 17
in the Maldives’ most northerly atoll. This islands and made up of South Thiladhun- Rasgetheemu NOONU
Maavelavaru
is about as far from the bucket-and-spade mathee Atoll – the central section of an Holhudhoo Manadhoo
(45m)
brigade as you can get. elongated reef and lagoon formation extend- RAA

ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ ὄ
ὄὄ
(45m)
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

Opened in 2005, this is utter boutique ing over 150km north to south – and the far

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
Ugoofaaru Velidhoo Randheli
luxury, a gorgeous crescent-shaped island smaller Maamakunudhoo Atoll, a narrow Kandholhudhoo
with beaches 1.5km long on both sides. One oval of reefs, about 20km to the west. li K
and
u
Innamaadhoo ave
of its big selling points is its marina, the first Kulhuduffushi is the capital island and also NORTH
MAALHOSMADULU
Bar

in the country. Here there are 30 berths for the most populous, with 7500 people. It ATOLL Iguraidhoo Hinnavaru
(107m) FAADHIPPOLHU
yachts up to 80m – all state of the art and has been chosen by the government as the Kinolhas
Naifaru
ATOLL

ὄὄὄ
installed by Walcone Marine. Maldives’ northern regional centre, and LHAVIYANI
Maafilaafushi
The five categories of rooms start with has a hospital, a secondary school and all Kurendhoo
the standard Funa Pavilions on the beach – basic services. A new harbour was being
which at 176 sq metres are still rather large – completed at the time of research. The tra- Olhuvelifushi
white-walled houses with separate bedrooms ditional specialities here are rope making SOUTH
and living rooms, teak floors throughout, and shark fishing. The regional airport is MAALHOSMADULU
ATOLL Dharavandhoo
slate and onyx-finished outdoor bathrooms, on Hanimaadhoo (population 1300). Island (107m)
Eydhafushi
all possible conveniences from DVD play- Aviation has flights from Male’ and back on
BAA
ers to espresso machines and each featuring most days – and this is the only runway in Thulhaadhoo
See Northern Tourism Zone Map (p151)
their own gardens. The astonishingly grand all the Northern Atolls, so flights are busy.
(57m)
two water villas and the incredible two The highest natural point in the Mal- Kaashidhoo
Hideaway Palaces (1420 sq metres of faintly dives, at about 3m above sea level, is on Fulhadhoo
Goidhoo
ridiculous exclusivity coming in at around Faridhoo (population 230), where there are GOIDHOO
KAAFU
US$3000 per night) make up the top end of ancient Buddhist ruins. On Kumundhoo ATOLL
To Male'
the resort’s accommodation. there’s a stone circle that seems to be the Gaafaru (70km)
 150 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • S h a v i y a n i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • N o r t h e r n T o u r i s m Z o n e 151

base of Buddhist stupa, and hawitta (arti- 13 inhabited islands with a combined total

D2
A4
C3
C3

C3

C4
B2

B3
E1

E1
E2
14 km
8 miles
ficial mound) remains can still be seen on of 11,000 people. The capital island, Manad-

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu............. 9

Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru..10
Kihaadhuffaru..........................11
Komandoo Island Resort.......... 12
Kuredu Island Resort.................13
Meedhupparu Island Resort.....14
One & Only Kanuhura..............15
Palm Beach Resort....................16
Reethi Beach Resort.................17
Royal Island..............................18
Soneva Fushi........................... 19
Administrative Districts
Vaikaradhoo. hoo, has 1500 people, but Holhudhoo (popu-

INDIAN
OCEAN
The area around Haa Dhaal suffers severe lation 1900) and Velidhoo (population 2100)

Tourism Zone
storms, and quite a few vessels have gone are more populous.

F
down in these waters. Maamakunudhoo On the island of Landhoo (population
Atoll is the graveyard of several ships, in- 850) are the remnants of a hawitta suppos-

Ookolhufinolhu
cluding the English ships Persia Merchant, edly left by the fabled Redin, a people who

RESORTS
ὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ
wrecked here in 1658, and the Hayston, figure in Maldivian folklore. The hawitta

0
0

Faadhoo
which ran onto a reef in 1819. In each cir- is a 15m-high mound known locally as

Maabinhuraa
Hiriyaadhoo
Selhlhifushi

Thilamaafushi
cumstance, survivors were rescued by local maa badhige (‘great cooking place’). Thor

Vihafaru

D2
C3

C3
B3

B4

B4
Marine Area

E1

E1
Fushifaru Thila
Protected

Mey-yyafushi
people and treated with kindness, a source Heyerdahl writes extensively about the tall,

Dhigali Haa................................1
Fushifaru Thilla............................2
Kakani Thila...............................3
Kuredhoo Express.......................4
Madi Finolhu..............................5
Milaidhoo Reef..........................6
Muthafushi Thila........................7
Shipyard....................................8
Olhuvelifushi
16
of great local pride. fair-haired Redin in his book The Maldive

Marine Area
The island of Hodaafushi has been al- Mystery. He believes them to have been the

Protected
E

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

LHAVIYANI
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ
located as a resort and plans are currently first inhabitants of the Maldives, as long

2
15
Fehigili
being worked on to create a 9-hole golf ago as 2000 BC.

u Kand u
Fushifaru
course here. Two islands, Maavelavaru and Randheli,

8 12 Komandhoo

Medhafushi
4
have been allocated for development as the

Ka a s h i d ho o Bod
Bahurukabeeru
13

FAADHIPPOLHU
SHAVIYANI

Kurendhoo
first two resort islands in Noonu Atoll.

ATOLL
Huravalhi
Looking at a modern map, the Shaviyani

Felivaru
RAA

KAAFU
Hinnavaru

Maafilaafushi
Naifaru
administrative district, made up of Milad-

ὄ
hunmadulu Atoll and Thiladhunmathee Raa administrative district, with 15,000

(107m)
du

Madivaru
Atoll, appears to be part of one elongated people dispersed throughout 16 inhabited

Kan

Veyvah
D

Vavvaru
atoll enclosing a single, very long lagoon. islands and one resort, is made up of North

eli

Kanifushi
rav
Shaviyani administrative district comprises Maalhosmadulu Atoll and the island of Ali-

Ba
NOONU
15 inhabited islands with a total of 11,406 fushi. Development is slow but sure here –
people. This atoll is most famous today as diving safari boats are starting to venture

ὄὄὄὄὄ
a major breeding ground for turtles, who into this area, and new dive sites are being
breed successfully on its pristine beaches. documented.

MAALHOSMADULU
The capital is Funadhoo (population 1330), The sea to the west of Raa has some of
a pretty island with the ruins of an ancient the best fishing areas in the country. The

Dharavandhoo
ATOLL
SOUTH

Kamadhoo
mosque and 13th-century tombstones. The capital island Ugoofaaru (population 1250)

Hibalhidhoo
C
most populous island, with 1600 inhabit- has one of the largest fishing fleets in the

Maalhoss
17
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ
ants, is Komandhoo. Narudhoo island is tiny country. On the west side of the atoll the

11
Kudarikilu
Dheburidheythereyvaadhoo
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

but has a natural freshwater lake on it – one tiny island of Kandholhudhoo (also spelt Kan-

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
Innamaadhoo
Kudakurathu

Miriandhoo
Rasmaadhoo
Maakuratha
Dhuvaafaru

Finolhas
Iguraidhoo
of the very few open places in the whole doludhu) is the nearest to the rich western

19
10
Vandhoo

Kottefaru

Boduhuraa
Kinolhas
country where water collects. waters, and has 3600 people crowded onto

Kihaadhoo
Fainu
Neyo

18

Eydhafushi
Marine Area
The main mosque on the island of Kan- it – a candidate for the most densely popu-

Protected

(107m)
ditheem (population 1160) incorporates lated island in the country.

1
Madivaafaru

Anhenunfushi
Huruvalhi
the oldest known example of the Maldives’ The island of Alifushi (population 2250),

ὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ ὄ
NORTHERN TOURISM ZONE

BAA
Kendhoo
14
unique Thaana script – it’s an inscription on which is actually in a small, separate atoll

Kudahaiykodi

Kudathulhaadhoo

Viligili
B

Maarikilu
RAA
a doorframe, which notes that the roof was to the north of Raa proper, is reputedly

Velidhoo
constructed in 1588. Another famous island the home of the finest dhoni builders in

Fenfushi
Meedhoo

d u
is uninhabited Nalandhoo, where the Thaku- the country. The government-owned Ali-

n
Maduvvari

Ka
Maamunagau
Furaveri
rufaanu brothers hid their boat between fushi Boat Yard continues the tradition,

Vakkaru

7
ni
Ha
guerrilla battles with the Portuguese. producing a modern version of the dhoni.

To Male' International Airport

(120km); Male' (122km)
9
The beautiful crescent island of Dhol- Iguraidhoo (population 1500) and Innamaad-

MAALHOSMADULU
hiyadhoo has been allocated as the atoll’s hoo (population 700) are also boat-building

Protected
Marine Area
Bodufarufinolhu

Maashigiri

first resort island. and carpentry centres that are accessible

Thulhaadhoo
NORTH
ATOLL
for excursions from Meedhupparu Island
NOONU
A

Resort.
The southern end of the Miladhunmadulu- According to local legend, the now un-
Thiladhunmathee Atoll complex is called inhabited island of Rasgetheemu is where
South Miladhunmadulu, and it forms the Koimala Kaloa and his princess wife landed
2

3
1

4
Noonu administrative district, comprising after being exiled from Sri Lanka and before
 152 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • B a a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • B a a 153

moving to Male’ to found a ruling dynasty. Water sports and diving are big attrac- The north side of Kakani Thila, at 25m to For the sporting guests, there’s a swim-
Another important visitor to the atoll was tions here – the water-sports activities 30m, retains coral formations in excellent ming pool, gym, squash, badminton and
the Arab seafarer Ibn Battuta, who landed available include two catamarans and the condition, and colourful soft corals fill the tennis. Windsurfing, sailing and other water
at Kinolhas in 1343 and then moved on to diving is so diverse due to the remote loca- overhangs. It’s also home to lots of fish, sports are popular here because of the wide
Male’. tion of the resort that new diving spots are including Napoleons, jackfish and Oriental lagoon. Kitesurfing is the latest thrill on
The channel between Baa and Raa, lo- constantly being discovered! Over 27 dive sweetlips. offer. Motorised activities like parasailing,
cally known as Hani Kandu, is also named sites are visited regularly by the resort’s The small Dhigali Haa, though well inside wakeboarding and jet skis are available only
Moresby Channel after the Royal Navy of- dive boats and there’s a huge variety of the atoll, commonly attracts pelagic spe- at certain hours. The spa offers a full range
ficer Robert Moresby, who was responsi- species to see. However, the diving isn’t as cies (barracuda) and grey reef sharks. Other of massage and beauty treatments. The Sea-
ble for the original marine survey of the cheap as it is at most resorts. There’s a huge fish include jacks, batfish and trevally. It’s Explorer dive centre (www.sea-explorer.net) is very
Maldives made from 1834 to 1836. There’s pool, gym, tennis and badminton courts also a good place to see nudibranch, yellow professional and reasonably priced. Quali-
good diving on both sides of the Moresby and a big choice of bars and restaurants to and orange soft corals and anemones (with fied divers can make dives off the house
Channel, as it funnels water between the keep people entertained. clown fish). reef, and with few resorts in the area you’ll
atolls, bringing pelagic fish and promoting All in all Meedhupparu is a great oppor- The sandy Madi Finolhu has large coral probably have good dive sites to yourself.
coral growth. Mantas abound in October tunity to escape from it all and combines blocks on which black corals grow. Sting- Reethi Beach is an excellent resort all
and November. The channels entering the remote location with plenty of activities and rays can be seen on the sand, and mantas round – attractive, well managed, with
atoll are studded with interesting thilas, and all-round good value. also pass through. This is a good beginners’ great food, where you can relax completely
reefs dot the inside of the atoll. dive (20m). or have a full-on action holiday.
BAA Overhangs at Muthafushi Thila are home to Marketed as Kihaad Maldive for an exclu-
Resorts The Baa administrative district includes soft corals and anemones. Many hard corals sively Italian market, Kihaadhuffaru (Kihaadhuf-
Raa Atoll is home to just the one resort – South Maalhosmadulu Atoll and the small are in good condition and very colourful, faru island; %6606688; www.valtur.it; airport transfer by
many more are planned but the combina- Goidhoo Atoll, 10km further south. Its in- soft corals can also be seen. There are large seaplane 35min, US$220, by speedboat 3hr, US$140; 100
tion of tourism downturn and the tsunami habitants number roughly 11,000 people in schools of blue-striped snapper. rooms; as) is a very stylish resort on a
have held up a lot of development projects. 13 inhabited islands and a handful of re- gorgeous island that enjoys lots of vegeta-
You are truly remote at the Meedhupparu sorts. Fishing is the most important activity, Resorts tion and some great sand spits out into the
Island Resort (Meedhupparu island; %6587700; www but Baa is also famous for its lacquer work MIDRANGE lagoon. Italian guests are on packages that
.meedhupparu.com; full board s/d/t US$210/250/335; air- and the fine woven-cotton sarong, called a The Reethi Beach Resort (Fonimagoodhoo island; include meals, some drinks and lots of ac-
port transfer by speedboat 4hr, US$170, by seaplane 45min, feylis. Eydhafushi, the capital and principal %6602626; www.reethibeach.com; s/d/t US$125/179/242; tivities. The rooms are new, fully equipped
US$300; 215 rooms; as), the only island resort island (population 2700), is also the feylis airport transfer by seaplane 35min, US$240; 100 rooms; (air-con, TV, minibar etc) and attractively
in the whole of Raa Atoll; and Meedhup- centre. Thulhaadhoo (population 2400) is the as) is all about well-heeled ecotourism, designed; deluxe rooms have hi-fi systems,
paru does not disappoint, with its gorgeous second largest island and the main centre and even through it’s very much a smart and water villas are also available. The res-
wide white beaches sloping down to the for the production of lacquered boxes and midrange resort, the management does taurant serves a rich selection of Italian and
lagoon. While once colonised by the Ital- jars. Both of these islands can be visited on a great job of making guests feel like it’s international dishes: buffet for breakfast
ian market, Meedhupparu today is mainly excursions from nearby resorts. still a haven for nature and stripped-down and lunch, table service for dinner. The re-
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

marketed in the UK and Germany, whose Because of its isolation, Goidhoo has tradi- pleasure. sort has a first-class swimming pool, disco,

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
citizens make up the bulk of the guests here. tionally been a place for castaways and This good-sized island has plenty of nat- spa, kids’ club and water-sports centre, and
Italians and Russians make up the other exiles. In 1602 Francois Pyrard, a French ural vegetation, soft white beaches, an ac- the island itself is a delight, with shady palm
main groups. explorer, found himself on the island of cessible house reef and an expansive lagoon. trees, perfect beaches, a lovely lagoon for
Unaffected by the tsunami, Meed- Fulhadhoo after his ship, the Corbin, was The buildings, all with thatched roofs, are sailing and a house reef that’s accessible
hupaaru’s buildings all date from 2000 wrecked. Incredibly, in 1976 a German designed to blend with the environment, for snorkelling and diving. Bookings are
when it opened. The resort also features an traveller was banished here for the murder, and also incorporate some Maldivian design all through the Italian operator Valtur (%in
Ayurvedic Village made up of 24 houses, in Male’, of his girlfriend – he refused offers elements like the deep horizontal mouldings Italy 39-6-47061; fax 39-6-4706334) and rack rates
popular with German guests, as well as of extradition, converted to Islam and later used on the old Friday Mosque in Male’. are unavailable.
an area known as the ‘Water Villas’ that married a local woman. Rooms are very well finished and have Royal Island (Horubadhoo island; %6600088; www
functions as a resort within a resort, aimed air-con, TV, minibar, IDD phone, quality .royal-island.com; s/d/t US$422/432/583; airport transfer by
at wealthier clients. The Water Villas com- Sights & Activities bathrooms and polished timber floors. The seaplane 35min, US$285; 152 rooms; as) is Villa
plex is marketed separately and non-Water DIVING deluxe villas are more spacious and have Hotels’ flagship upmarket resort (their oth-
Villa guests are not allowed into the Water Strong currents flowing through the Ka- better beach frontage, while the water villas ers such as Paradise Island, Sun Island and
Villa area of the island, which includes an madhoo Kandu provide an environment are decent but nothing show-stopping. Holiday Island are distinctly lower down
exclusive Balinese spa and a charming gar- for soft corals, which thrive on Milaidhoo Guests are mostly British, German and the food chain) and it is clearly lucky to
den full of Sri Lankan flowers. The rooms Reef, on the north side of an uninhabited Swiss, many on half-board packages that let have avoided being saddled with a terribly
elsewhere in the resort are perfectly fine if island. The reef top, at 2m, is great for them try the weekly barbecue and the two naff sounding name, judging by the fate of
lacking in character and the rooms in the snorkelling, and it drops straight down to speciality restaurants (Chinese and Maldiv- its sister resorts. In fact, this is a classy place
Ayurvedic Village are identical, but simply about 35m. This cliff has numerous caves ian) as well as the excellent selection in the with attentive staff, an impressive spa and
feature thatched roofs. and overhangs with sea fans and sponges. main buffet. plenty of leisure activities.
 154 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • B a a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • L h a v i y a n i 155

The island is long and narrow, with mag- Soneva Fushi is housed on the biggest re- at the time of research. Unlike the Four Sea- Coco Palm has developed a well-deserved
nificent long stretches of white beach and sort island in the country (more than 1.5km sons at Kuda Hura, however, this property reputation for being an ideal honeymoon
a brilliant house reef. Most of the natural long) but has just 65 luxurious villas. Each is brand new and promises to raise the bar and couples’ hideaway and is maturing into
vegetation has been preserved, including one is like a small house built with natural again in the struggle for ultimate luxury in a sophisticated home away from home.
many coconut palms, pandanuses, screw materials, fitted with designer furnishings an already crowded market.
pines and seven big banyan trees. An old and finished in rustic style. All the deluxe The accommodation is divided into LHAVIYANI
bathing pool and some mosque ruins have features are included (air-con, hairdryer, thatched-roof beach and water villas, each The single atoll of Faadhippolhu makes
also been preserved. minisafe, CD player etc) but ‘modern’ items replete with teak furnishings and rustic yet up the administrative district of Lhavi-
The modern-looking rooms are nestled are concealed – no plastic is visible. Villas modern décor. Private plunge pools come yani, where fishing is the main industry
in trees and front onto the beach. Inside are well spaced around the edges of the is- with many of the rooms, as do personal and tourism is gradually becoming more
they have pine walls, hardwood floors land, affording complete privacy – they’re butlers and the full range of amenities important. It has a population of about
and all the gadgets from air-con and IDD reached by sandy tracks that wind through you’d expect from a five-star international 10,000 living on just five inhabited islands.
phone to electric kettle and satellite TV. the lush vegetation, which is kept as natural chain. On the capital island, Naifaru (population
The airy main restaurant offers a huge va- as possible. There’s a big range of villas as Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu (Dhunikolhu island; 4350), the people have a reputation for
riety of styles – Italian, Indian, Mexican, well as prices and even if the 15 ‘standard’ % 6600011; www.cocopalm.com.mv/dhunikolhu; s/d/ making attractive handicrafts from coral
Maldivian and others – all served as buf- Rehendi Rooms come in comfortably below wb US$452/495/914; airport transfer by seaplane 30min, and mother-of-pearl, and for concocting
fets. A second restaurant specialises in à la four figures a night, prices quickly rise as US$295; 100 rooms; ai), one of the most local medicines. Hinnavaru (population
carte Mediterranean meals, while several you move up the categories. The most ex- architecturally interesting resorts, has large 4300) is also densely settled and the cen-
bars serve snacks and drinks. Alcohol is pensive option, the Jungle Reserve, a vast tentlike thatched pavilions for reception, tral government is promoting the develop-
a bit pricey here (about US$5 for a beer; Swiss Family Robinson–style retreat for the restaurant and bar areas. The beach villa ment of Maafilaafushi as an alternative, but
US$7 for a glass of house wine), but many mega-rich, has to be seen to be believed. rooms are circular with high, thatched, con- so far only about 100 people have settled
‘extras’ are included in the room rate – The reception, bar and restaurant areas ical roofs, quality furnishings and open-air there. Maafilaafushi had a much greater
mineral water, gym facilities, daytime all have sand floors and cane furniture, and bathrooms, while the deluxe rooms have, population in the 17th century, but it was
tennis, windsurfing and snorkelling gear. the chickens are free to wander anywhere. in addition, an individual, free-form plunge later abandoned, though remnants of the
The Royal Araamu Spa is a luxury facility The food is superb, with the freshest, finest pool. The 14 over-water bungalows are even old mosque can still be seen. Day trips
with a relaxing ambience. Eight therapists ingredients, beautifully prepared and pre- more luxuriously appointed, and combine from the resorts visit all these islands, as
perform a range of beauty and ‘wellness’ sented. It could be called European-Asian privacy with uninterrupted sea views. well as Felivaru, which has a modern tuna-
treatments from face massage to pedicure. fusion cuisine, with a bias towards light and The island itself is quite large with soft, canning plant.
The Delphis Diving Centre is keen to tropical flavours. Lunch and sometimes din- white beaches all around and a very acces-
have divers explore the many sites in Baa ner are buffet style, but the offerings change sible house reef. The vegetation has a very Sights & Activities
Atoll, and they’re very good guides. A single daily, and the wine list is wonderful. Meals natural look, although it’s a little sparse and DIVING
boat dive is US$45 with tank and weights, are often served alfresco, and in-room din- scrubby – they’re working to thicken it up. Usually done as a long drift dive through the
or US$57 with all equipment. An open- ing is also available. Another highlight is the food. All meals are channel next to the Kuredu resort, Kuredhoo
water course costs US$595. Picnics on isolated islands are popular, buffet, but the variety, quality and freshness Express is a demanding dive in strong cur-
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

Though the style here is much more nat- as are the dozens of different massages and is hard to believe – it’s one of the few resorts rents but also offers brilliant snorkelling

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
ural than at other Villa properties, it doesn’t treatments offered at the Six Senses spa. with perfect avocados. on the eastern side. Napoleon wrasse, grey
have the character of many older, smaller The atmosphere is completely relaxed and With no other resorts around, divers reef sharks and trevally frequent the chan-
resorts. But with its high-quality facilities delightfully unpretentious – leave your jew- here have access to almost untouched sites. nel entrance, while inside are overhangs
and food, beautiful beaches and fantastic ellery and your dinner jacket at home. Diving is run by Ocean-Pro (www.oceanpro dripping with soft corals. Look for morays,
snorkelling and diving, Royal Island repre- There is the usual range of resort recrea- -diveteam.com), which offers professional, per- turtles and stingrays. It’s a Protected Ma-
sents great value for money. tions, many of them complimentary. The sonal service. A single boat dive is US$51 rine Area.
Soleni dive school (www.soleni.com) has years of with tank and weights, or US$70 with all Shipyard is another demanding dive,
TOP END experience diving the sites around Soneva. equipment. An open-water course costs with two wrecks within 50m of each other.
The original Soneva resort in the Maldives, A single boat dive is US$69 with tank and about US$646. Nitrox courses cost US$207 Strong currents around these ships have
opening in 1995, the stunning Soneva Fushi weights, or US$81 with all equipment. An and nitrox dives cost no extra. promoted rapid growth of soft and hard
(Kunfunadhoo island; % 6600304; www.sixsenses.com open-water course costs about US$695. Whale watching is an option in Octo- corals, which now form a habitat for many
/soneva-fushi; s & d US$640; airport transfer by seaplane For back-to-nature meets haute couture, ber and November, when the animals mi- types of reef fish. Moray eels and sweepers
30min, US$330; 65 rooms; ais) has been some- you’ll find nowhere better than Soneva grate through the channel between Baa and live inside the wrecks, while nurse sharks
what eclipsed by its even more fabulous sister Fushi. Goidhoo Atolls. Excursions include a visit cruise around the bottom.
resort Soneva Gili in North Male’ Atoll, but Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru (Landaa Giraavaru to Thulhaadhoo, an island well known for When the current is strong, Fushifaru
this is still an incredible and alluring place. island; %6600888; www.fourseasons.com/maldiveslg; s/ producing lacquer work, which you can see Thila is no place for beginners, but when
Whereas Soneva Gili is about water, Soneva d/wb US$800/800/990; airport transfer by seaplane 30min, and buy. For recreation there’s a gym, a the currents are slow the top of the thila
Fushi is about the jungle and the incredible, US$295; 102 rooms; ais), the second Four spa, tennis courts, and a billiard table, as is superb for snorkelling. The thila, with
dense vegetation of this island is one of the Seasons resort in the Maldives, was, like it’s well as the Mandara Spa for Balinese-style lovely soft corals, sits in the centre of a
first things that strikes you on arrival. badly tsunami-hit sister, still not operational massage. broad channel and attracts mantas, eagle
 156 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • L h a v i y a n i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • L h a v i y a n i 157

rays, sharks, groper, sweetlips and turtles. for the generally younger, livelier crowd in MIDRANGE Famous throughout the atoll for being
Cleaner wrasse abound on the thila, which the less expensive rooms. The buffets in the Komandoo Island Resort (Komandhoo island; a particularly beautiful island, triangu-
is a Protected Marine Area. main restaurant are pretty good, with a fair % 6621010; www.komandoo.com; s/d/wb US$270/ lar Palm Beach Resort (Madhiriguraidhoo island;
selection of Asian and international dishes. 280/420; airport transfer by seaplane 40min, US$270, %6620087; www.palmbeach-maldives.com; full board
Resorts In addition there are three à la carte restau- by speedboat 4hr, US$120; 65 rooms; ai ), the s/d/t US$248/364/489; airport transfer by seaplane 40min,
Though Kuredu has been open for over 25 rants specialising in Italian pizza, Thai food smaller and more stylish sibling of Kuredu, US$330; 100 rooms; ais) enjoys some of
years, the other resorts are more recent (late and grills. There’s even a teashop where you shares the same management. The feel at the best beaches in the atoll. The bunga-
1990s), and reflect the upmarket trend in can get typical Maldivian short eats at typi- this resort couldn’t really be more different, lows dotted along both sides of the island
Maldives tourism. cal tourist prices (it’s more popular with though – instead of crowds of excitable holi- are quite big and have air-con, phone,
staff than guests). The big Babuna Bar is the daymakers going from activity to activity, TV, in-house movies, minibar and other
BUDGET busiest place in the evening and hosts mov- at Komandoo the pace is far more relaxed mod cons, though the white walls, tiled
Kuredu Island Resort (Kuredhoo island; %6620337; ies, discos, cultural shows, games nights and and the resort ethos is one of pampering floors and bamboo furniture aren’t espe-
www.kuredu.com; s/d/wb US$120/140/320; airport transfer live bands. Other bars offer poolside drinks and relaxation. There are no children al- cially stylish. Most of the resort facilities
by seaplane 40min, US$250; 330 rooms; ais) is or a more intimate atmosphere. lowed here, making this a favourite spot for (restaurant, bar, pool, spa, sports centre)
about as close as you can get to a resort Recreation facilities include a gym, tennis honeymooners and other couples enjoying are towards one end of the island, quite a
city in the Maldives – this truly is the re- courts, a well-used beach volleyball court and a romantic break. way from some of the rooms. Electric carts
sort that has everything, and people will the aforementioned golf course. For water The round island is ringed by a strik- and bicycles are available to help people
love it or loathe it in equal measure for this sports there are windsurfing, kitesurfing, cat- ingly beautiful beach, although the sea get around.
very reason. Since a comprehensive refit a amarans, water-skiing, wakeboards and the breaks that surround much of the island The main restaurant serves all meals as
few years ago Kuredu has managed to go ubiquitous banana. A new and palatial spa obscure the desert-island perfection some- buffets with an Italian bias, and they’re very
impressively upmarket while retaining its offers hour-long Swedish, Thai and Oriental what. The visitors here are mainly British good. Seven bars are dotted around the
very reasonable prices and it’s now a great massages as well as two-hour lessons so you and German. island. Live music, discos and other enter-
chance to enjoy a midrange style resort at can learn to massage your partner. Excur- The hexagonal rooms, prefabricated in tainment happens in the pool bar. Tennis,
distinctly budget prices. sions go to a variety of local fishing villages, pine from Finland, come complete with air- squash and most water sports are free, as
Established as a diving camp in 1976, resorts and uninhabited islands. There’s a day con, phone, four-poster bed, minibar, safe are some excursions and snorkelling trips
Kuredu is favoured by British and German cruise on a traditional wooden yacht (US$75) and CD player, and they all front directly (the lagoon isn’t good for snorkelling). The
visitors – the former make up some two and a choice of fishing trips too. onto a pure white beach. Fifteen water bun- Macana Diving School charges very reason-
thirds of the guests while the latter are the Excellent dive sites are accessible to galows were added in 2006 and they are able diving rates and runs the full gamut of
second biggest nationality represented. You Kuredu and just a few other resorts. The suitably impressive. courses for beginners.
can effectively have whatever kind of holi- ProDivers centre (www.prodivers.com) offers a The four reefs accessible through two Palm Beach Resort is operated by Sporting
day you’re after here – the sheer number full range of courses, and does a good job channels from the island have a wide va- Vacanze and most guests come from Italy,
of activities and facilities available is mind- matching divers with others of similar ex- riety of marine life (256 fish species have but it’s not really a club-style resort and the
boggling. From the only golf course in perience and interest. A single boat dive been documented) and recovering corals, animation is low key. In fact the whole resort
the Maldives (six holes and 250m driving costs US$49 with tank and weights, or so are ideal for snorkelling from the beach. has a very casual atmosphere. It attracts all
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

range) and kite-boarding, to a decompres- US$65 with all equipment. An open-water The very professional ProDivers (www.prodivers age groups, and quite a few families with

N O R T H E R N AT O L L S
sion chamber and a football pitch, Kuredu course is US$595. A nitrox course costs .com) runs the dive centre, as on Kuredu, children, so it’s perfectly possible to stay here
has it all. US$99, and nitrox dives are available at no but with smaller groups and slightly higher as a FIT (fully independent traveller), unlike
The beach bungalows are recently reno- extra cost. Rebreather courses and dives are prices – US$52 for a single boat dive with at many Italian package resorts.
vated with air-con, phone, hot water and also available. Much of the house reef is ac- tank and weights and US$665 for an open-
minibar, but are still very affordable. The cessible, and you can do good dives directly water course. Nitrox is available. TOP END
new, all-wood beach villas face the best from the shore. ProDivers also runs a com- Perhaps Komandoo’s most charming One & Only’s first Maldivian resort, One
beach, have an open-air bathroom, stereo plete snorkelling program, with instructors feature is its own uninhabited island just & Only Kanuhura (Kanahuraa island; % 6620044;
and coffeemakers, and cost up to US$30 taking groups for fish spotting, photogra- a short boat ride across the lagoon. This is www.oneandonlyresorts.com; s/d/wb US$664/698/1140;
more. Spa beach villas are more expensive phy and wreck-snorkelling trips. almost too picture perfect to be believed, a airport transfer by seaplane 40min, US$309; 100 rooms;
again, and the spacious Sangu water villas, It’s a well-run resort that has always been perfect circle of heavily vegetated heaven ais) is a sumptuous, charming, im-
made with the honeymooners in mind, are popular with young Europeans, giving it with virgin beaches and total peace and pressive place with magnificent beaches,
suitably grand. In fact the Sangu Resort is an a lively, sociable atmosphere. Now it also quiet. stunning accommodation and top-notch
exclusive resort within a resort: the restau- has more honeymooners, older couples and The island is not lush, but is impressively food. This place manages to get it right
rant here does first-class buffet meals with families. The island is very big and has been landscaped. The main restaurant and bar on so many levels – it’s classy and styl-
live cooking stations as a special attraction intelligently developed to cater for a variety buildings have sea views, sand floors and ish without being too formal, it’s romantic
and ‘wedding’ ceremonies or renewal-of- of needs. If you want high-style luxury or tropical-island atmosphere. The food and without being too quiet and it’s welcom-
vows services are held here. intimate island atmosphere, this resort may service get rave reviews, and the new Etoile ing to families without allowing the kids to
The main reception, restaurant, bar, not be for you. But for activities such as div- spa adds another opportunity for indul- run riot. If you want a laid-back, high-end
swimming pool, shops and dive centre are ing and snorkelling, relaxation, recreation, gence. If you want a small, quiet, quality beach holiday with considerable style, this
all near the centre of the island, and cater families and fun, Kuredu is hard to beat. resort, Komandoo is ideal. may be for you.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
158 N O R T H E R N AT O L L S • • L h a v i y a n i www.lonelyplanet.com

The rooms combine classical luxury and beds scattered about the undergrowth for
elegant simplicity. The beach villas have lovers to lounge in while pretending to be
four-poster beds, a separate dressing area, in an upmarket version of Lost.
fabulous indoor-outdoor bathroom, lots of Kanahuraa is a big island, about 1km
polished timber and a frontage onto the long, and assiduous landscaping is augment-
perfect beach. They’re equipped with the ing the natural vegetation with local species.
works – air-con, safe, stereo, satellite TV, The environment is a priority here – garden
DVD, espresso machine, minibar, bath- waste is composted, water is recycled, sew-
robes, umbrellas and even slippers. The age is reprocessed and solar panels provide
more expensive suites and water villas are the hot water. Lovely, squeaky beaches go
even bigger and feature several rooms, pri- right around the island, and the wide lagoon
vate spas, sun decks and direct sea access. makes for smooth sailing – you can follow
The resort’s public areas are focused the reef for 5km and make your own stops
around the expansive infinity pool near at several tiny uninhabited islands along
the main jetty. This has the main Thin Rah the way. Water-skiing is an option; jet skis
restaurant at one end, the Olive Tree Italian are not. Field trips here vary from dolphin
restaurant to one side and the wonderfully watching to one of the most unusual we’ve
Arabesque bar at the other. Also near the come across – a trip to the tuna-tinning
pool is the One & Only Spa, a serene space factory on nearby Felivaru.
that’s central to the resort’s concept, with The house reef is not suitable for snorkel-
some 40 treatments on offer. There’s also ling, so take one of the special snorkelling
a gym, aerobics studio, karaoke bar, cigar excursions run by the Sun Dive Centre (www
lounge, games room and library with free .sundivecenter.com), a PADI Gold Palm facility
Internet access. Other facilities around the that caters for youngsters, beginners and
island include the Nashaa nightclub, several advanced divers. Over 40 dive sites are ac-
boutiques, a coffee shop, tennis and squash cessible. A single boat dive costs US$65
courts, and an excellent kids’ club. This is with tank and weights, or US$75 with all
a complete resort. equipment, and an open-water course costs
At the other end of the island is the high- US$660. Nitrox dives costs US$5 extra, and
end outdoor dining option of the Veli Café – a nitrox course is US$280.
overlooking the resort’s very own desert One & Only Kanuhura is a treat and a
islet of Jehunuhura. A complimentary boat half, a full resort thought out by a company
shuttles guests back and forth between the fanatical about getting everything right. On
two, the main attraction of Jehunuhura all fronts it scores maximum points – stay
N O R T H E R N AT O L L S

being the gorgeous Cove’s Beach restau- here if you are lucky enough to have the
rant, open for lunch, but there’s also the chance.

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159

Southern Atolls

All eyes are currently on the southern Maldives to provide the islands for the future de-
velopment of tourism in the Maldives. The already-crowded central Maldives and the bad
transport links to the northern atolls mean that the pristine south is, in the words of many
a developer, ripe for it. There are three regional airports with daily connections to Male’
already here and the new international airport at Gan will begin taking long-haul flights
from Europe and Asia during the lifetime of this book, so tourism arrivals to this relatively
untouched area of the country are set to dramatically increase.

Until a few years ago, the atolls south of Male’ and Ari Atolls were isolated and had
scarcely seen a foreigner. The exception was Gan, in the far south of the country, where
the British had established military facilities in WWII and an air-force base that operated
from 1956 to 1976. Even 30 years after the British departed Gan still has an unusually
British feel.

Staying at the budget Equator Village remains one of the best ways to experience real
life in the Maldives, as a new road has connected Gan to three other inhabited islands
that tourists are free to explore by bicycle or taxi without the usual restrictions.

Development is set to be huge over the next decade here: the tourism zone looks set
to be expanded to cover all five southern atolls that are currently off-limits to non-permit-
holders, safari boats are regularly exploring dive sites as far south as the Huvadhoo Kandoo
(famously known as One-and-a-Half-Degree channel), and surfing trips are going to the remot-
est breaks of Gaaf Dhaal. Despite this, the region is almost totally pristine and a wonderful
place to visit.

VAAVU has a good anchorage for safari boats. At

The Vaavu administrative district is made the northern edge of the atoll, Fulidhoo
up of Felidhoo Atoll (also spelled Felidhe (population 370) is an attractive island,
and Fulidhoo) and the small, uninhabited regularly visited on day trips from the
Vattaru Falhu Atoll. This is the least popu- resorts – you may see some impressively
lous area of the country, with around 2000 large boats under construction here. Ra-
inhabitants spread over just five inhabited keedhoo (population 360), at the southern
islands. As the area is just south of Male’ tip of the atoll, is used as an anchorage
and thus well served by transport links, by safari boats taking divers to the nearby
this is an area set to be developed far more channel.

S O U T H E R N AT O L L S
heavily in the near future than the two re-
sorts currently functioning here. Sights & Activities
The main industry is fishing, and there DIVING
is some boat building as well as two tourist There are at least 24 recognised dive sites
resort islands. The capital island is Felidhoo, in the atoll and only two resorts in the area.
which has only about 500 people, but visi- Some of them are not readily accessible,
tors are more likely to go its neighbouring even from the resorts, and are mostly vis-
island, Keyodhoo (population 650), which ited by safari boats. The following sites are
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SOUTHERN ATOLLS rated as amongst the best in the Maldives, phone, minibar and satellite TV; 10 of them rich with anemones and home to lobsters,
0 50 km and they all offer superb snorkelling. are water bungalows. It’s a small island, a groper and glassfish. Colourful butterflyfish
0 30 miles
Devana Kandu is a not-too-demanding

ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
little bit cramped, splendidly isolated, with and clown triggerfish are easily spotted, but
Mahibadhoo To Male' KAAFU
(52km) drift dive in a channel divided by a narrow good dive sites nearby and a house reef look hard for well-camouflaged stonefish
ARI
ATOLL ALIFU
FELIDHOO
ATOLL
thila; it’s a great snorkelling area too. There that’s accessible for snorkellers. and scorpionfish.
are several entrances to the channel, which As its name suggests, Alimatha Aquatic (Ali-
Felidhoo has overhangs, caves, reef sharks and eagle mathaa island; %6700575; [email protected]; s/d Resorts
VAAVU
rays. The southern side has soft corals and US$270/295; airport transfer by seaplane 20 min US$200, by Hakuraa Club (Hakuraahuraa island; %6720014; www
NORTH
NILANDHOO Vattaru
lots of reef fish. Further in, the passages speedboat 1¾hr, US$130; 102 rooms; a) is a resort .johnkeellshotels.com; wb US$270; airport transfer by sea-
ATOLL FAAFU Falhu join up and there is a broad area of hard devoted to the pleasures of diving, snorkel- plane 45 min, US$255; 70 rooms; a) reopened in
Magoodhoo corals, the deeper parts being less affected by ling and water sports. Like its sister resort 2005 after a US$3.2 million post-tsunami
MEEMU bleaching. The whole channel is a Protected Dhiggiri, Alimatha was completely reno- refit and the results are quite something.
SOUTH Muli Marine Area. vated in the late 1990s. It’s also an Italian Traditionally a water-sports destination,
NILANDHOO
ATOLL
DHAALU MULAKU Fotteyo is a brilliant dive and snorkelling club-style resort with the guests on inclusive Hakuraa Club is still a resort of choice for
ATOLL
site in and around a channel entrance – it’s packages. It’s essentially a bigger, more at- those who like sailing, windsurfing, snor-

ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Kudahuvadhoo See Southern Tourism Zone Map (p162)
worth making several dives here. There are tractive version of Dhiggiri. The lagoon is kelling and diving, but it is now market-
numerous small caves, several large caves quite wide and more suited to sailing and ing itself as a romantic place to do these
Vilufushi
Buruni Madifushi and various arches and holes, all decorated windsurfing (included in the package price) things too.
Kadoodhoo
THAA Kalhufahalafushi with colourful soft corals. Rays, reef sharks, than snorkelling. Catering mainly to British and German
Dhiyamigili (72m)
Hirilandhoo Guraidhoo groper, tuna, jackfish, barracuda, turtles guests on all-inclusive packages, Hakuraa
Veymandhoo
Omadhoo
Thimarafushi and even hammerhead sharks can be seen. MEEMU offers only over-water bungalows in a mas-
KOLHUMADULU
Isdhoo Inside, the channel floor is known as ‘trig- Meemu administrative district (tradi- sive swathe of construction spread out over
ATOLL
Maabaidhoo gerfish alley’. tionally called Mulaku) has only about the lagoon. The lagoon is not good for
Maandhoo (67m)
Maavah Gan Rakeedhoo Kandu is a challenging dive in a 5000 people living on its nine inhab- snorkelling, though snorkelling gear and
Kadhoo
Olhuveli Fonadhoo deep channel – the east and west sides are ited islands. Muli (population 760) is the twice-daily snorkelling trips are included in
Kunahandhoo Hithadhoo usually done as separate drift dives. Broad capital island, and now gets a few visi- the package. Use of windsurfers is also in-
HADHDHUNMATHEE
ATOLL coral shelves cover overhangs and caves, tors from the newly established resorts. cluded, but at low tide the lagoon becomes
LAAMU which have sea fans and black corals. Tur- Nearby Boli Mulah and Kolhuvaariyaafushi too shallow for windsurfing and sailing – so

ὄὄὄὄ
tles, Napoleon wrasse, sharks and schools of islands, in the south, are more popu- it’s a strange choice for a specialist water
trevally are often seen and the snorkelling lous, with about 1400 and 1200 people, sports resort!
Huvadhoo Kandu on the reef top is brilliant. respectively. Both these islands grow yams, The dive school is good value and offers
(One-and-a-Half- Degree Channel)
Vattaru Kandu, a remote channel dive on which are an important staple in more fer- what so few centres in the Maldives can
the southern edge of Vattaru Falhu, is tile islands, and an alternative to rice that these days – access to truly pristine dive
GAAF ALIF now a designated Protected Marine Area. must be imported. sites. With so many little-visited dive sites
NORTH HUVADHOO
It is not too demanding unless the cur- The atoll was included in the tourism in the area, diving might be the best reason
Kolamaafushi (30m)
Viligili
ATOLL rents are running at full speed. The reef zone in the late 1990s, and has lots of sites to stay at Hakuraa Club.
Kudhoo
(40m)
Nilandhoo
next to Vattaru island is a fine snorkel- that are recently explored and named, both The lovely island resort of Medhufushi (Med-
Dhevvadhoo
SOUTH HUVADHOO
Dhaandhoo ling area. Around the entrance are many in the kandus on the edges of the atoll, and hufushi island; www.aaa-resortsmaldives.com/medhufushi)
Thinadhoo
ATOLL Hadahaa Kodey
Funamadhua
caves and overhangs with soft corals, sea inside the atoll around the numerous thilas was closed at the time of research for a total
Kaadedhoo Konottaa
Dhiyadhoo fans and abundant fish life – barracuda, and giris. refit. It is expected to reopen in mid-2007.

ὄ
(120m)
Hoadedhdhoo Gadhdhoo Kaduhulhudhoo fusilier and white-tip reef sharks. Turtles No further details were available at the time
Equator
Rathafandhoo Gan
Vaadhoo Lonudhoohuttaa are sometimes seen here, and manta rays Sights & Activities of writing.
Fiyoari Fares
GAAF DHAAL from December to April. DIVING
Maadthoda
Shark’s Tongue is east of Boli Mulah, in the FAAFU
Equatorial Channel Resorts mouth of the Mulah Kandu. White-tips The administrative district of Faafu, also
Dhiggiri (Dhiggiri island; % 6700593; mmtours@ sleep on the sandy plateau, and grey reef known as North Nilandhoo Atoll, has about
GNAVIYANI
(120m) dhivehinet.net.mv; s/d US$330/358; airport transfer by sharks hang around a cleaning station at 3800 people living on its five inhabited
S O U T H E R N AT O L L S

S O U T H E R N AT O L L S
Fuamulaku
FOAMMULAH
ATOLL
seaplane 20 min US$200, by speedboat 1½hr, US$130; 20m. In strong currents, black-tip, grey islands. The capital island, Magoodhoo (pop-
45 rooms; a) was completely renovated in and silver-tip sharks cruise through the ulation 630), is a small fishing village with a
SEENU
ADDU the late 1990s and caters exclusively to the coral blocks, but this is no place for begin- very traditional Islamic community.
ATOLL Hithadhoo Italian market. It’s a club-style resort, and ner divers.
Gan See Addu Atoll Map (p168)
all guests are on packages that include ac- Giant Clam is an easy dive around two shel- Sights & Activities
INDIAN Administrative Districts
tivities, a couple of excursions, all meals tered giris, where several giant clams are On the southern edge of the atoll, Nilandhoo
OCEAN Tourism Zone (with beer and wine) and nonmotorised seen between 8m and 15m, even by snor- (population 1500) has the second oldest
water sports. The rooms have air-con, TV, kellers. Numerous caves and overhangs are mosque in the country, Aasaari Miskiiy,
 ὄ
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SOUTHERN TOURISM ZONE 0

0
16 km
10 miles
big steps where great clouds of fish school. Filitheyo is a first-class resort with great
Swarms of batfish and several Napoleons food, friendly and efficient service and a
A B C D

ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ ὄ
Fulidhoo are resident, while grey reef sharks, rays and lovely setting. It doesn’t cater for party-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES To Male' (52km); Male'
International Airport (55km)
trevallies are frequent visitors. goers or pampering. It suits families and
Devana Kandu.....................1 C1 12
Filitheyo Reef.......................2 A2
Kudaboll
The Two Brothers are two thilas placed in those looking for relaxation, and is ideal for
1 Fotteyo................................3 D1 11
a narrow channel. The big brother (north) diving, snorkelling and other outdoor and
Fushi Kandu.........................4 A3 Fussfaru Huraa FELIDHOO
Giant Clam..........................5 C4
Protected
Marine Area
1 ATOLL tops out at 3m and is covered with soft water activities.
Macro Spot..........................6 A3 corals and sponges, and attracts snorkel-
Rakeedhoo Kandu...............7 C2
lers. Many turtles reside here. Big pelag- DHAALU

ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Aarah
Shark's Tongue....................8 D3 3
Hulhidhoo Thinadhoo
Two Brothers.......................9 B2 (72m) ics cruise around both brothers and there The administrative district of Dhaalu is
Vattaru Kandu...................10 C2 Keyodhoo Felidhoo
are lots of nudibranch, pipefish, gobies and made up of the South Nilandhoo Atoll and
Kuda Anbaraa
VAAVU other small marine life. has about 5000 people living on its eight
Medhugiri
NORTH inhabited islands.
Ruhhurihuraa
NILANDHOO
ATOLL
Kadumoonufushi Protected
Anbaraa
Thunduhuraa Resorts The biggest and most interesting island
2 Bodumohoraa
Marine Area
Rakeedhoo Filitheyo (Filitheyo island; % 6720025; www.aaa is the capital, Kudahuvadhoo (population

ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
2
Himithi
(45m)
Viligilivarufinolhu 7 -resortsmaldives.com/filitheyo; s/d/wb US$268/276/390; 1450), which has an ancient and mysteri-
Minimasgali Dhiguvarufinolhu
Protected
Marine Area VATTARU FALHU
ATOLL
INDIAN airport transfer by seaplane 35min, US$245; 125 rooms; ous mound. The mound is now just sand,
Protected
13
9 10
Vattarurah OCEAN ais) is a beautifully designed and but originally this was the foundation of
Marine Area Maavaruhuraa finished resort on a large, well-vegetated, a structure made of fine stonework. The
FAAFU triangular island. The public buildings are building stones were later removed to build
Ebulufushi Gaahuraa
Bileiydhoo
Dhiggaru
spacious, open-sided Balinese-style pavilions part of the island’s mosque. Heyerdahl said

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Magoodhoo Maduvvari
(42m) with palm-thatch roofs and natural finishes. the rear wall of this mosque had some of the
Magoodhoofinolhu Raiymandhoo
Nilandhoo Dharaboodhoo The main restaurant is especially attractive finest masonry he had ever seen, surpass-
3 MULAKU and serves a wide assortment of wonder- ing even that of the famous Inca wall in
Protected MEEMU ATOLL
Marine Area
4 17 ful food at buffets for every meal. Even at Cuzco, Peru. He was amazed to find such
(45m)
SOUTH 6
Meedhoo
Boli Mulah
lunch, expect canapés, soup, several types a masterpiece of stone-shaping art on such
Veyvah
NILANDHOO
ATOLL
Faandhoo
Maagau
16
Protected 8 of fish, chicken, a couple of curries, fresh- an isolated island, although the Maldivians
Muli
Marine Area Maalhaveli cooked pasta and a few vegetarian options. had a reputation in the Islamic world for

ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Ribudhoo
Kanneiyfaru Thuvaru 5 Naalaafushi
Maadheli
Gongaleehuraa
Seedheehuraa 15
Drinks are very reasonably priced here, and finely carved tombstones. Kudahuvadhoo
Maalefaru
Hulhudheli Hulhuvehi
Kekuraalhuveli 14 at the main bar and sunset bar (beers US$3 is a long way from the resorts on this atoll,
DHAALU to US$4; house wine US$4 per glass; spirits so a visit would be difficult. The waters
Kudausfushi
Bulhalafushi
Gemendhoo Kurali Haafushi
RESORTS
Alimatha Aquatic...............11 C1
US$4 to US$6), but all-inclusive options are around Kudahuvadhoo have seen several
4 Kiraidhoo Kuradhigandu Kolhuvaariyaafushi
available. shipwrecks, including the 1340-ton Liffey,
Naibukaloabodufushi Dhiggiri..............................12 C1
Minimasgali Thilabolhufushi Filitheyo.............................13 B2
Valla-Ihohi Hakuraa Club....................14 C4
Most rooms are comfortable timber which went down in 1879, and the Utheem,
Kadimma
Bodufushi Valla Hiriyafushi Medhufushi.......................15 C4 bungalows facing the best beach, nested which hit the same reef in 1960.
Administrative Districts Velavaru Island Resort.......16 B3
Maafushi Maaeboodhoo
Tourism Zone Vilu Reef............................17 B3
amongst the palm trees, and equipped with In the north of the atoll are the so-called
Kudahuvadhoo Eboodhoofushi
phone, minibar, TV, CD player, open-air ‘jewellers islands’. Ribudhoo (population
bathroom and personal sun deck. Inter- 700) has long been known for its gold-
built during the reign of Sultan Moham- a full-day excursion from Filitheyo resort, connecting rooms are perfect for families. smiths, who are believed to have learnt the
med Ibn Abdullah (1153–66). It is made of but the ruins are mostly unexcavated. As Deluxe villas provide extra space and style, craft from a royal jeweller banished here
dressed stone and the interior is decorated Heyerdahl wrote: while the water villas have sea views and by a sultan centuries ago. Another version
with carved woodwork. It’s possible that private balconies. Resort facilities include is that they developed their skills on gold
the stones were recycled from the ruins of Five teams of archaeologists could dig a gym, small spa, horizon pool, reading taken from a shipwreck in the 1700s. The
earlier, pre-Islamic structures. here for five years and still make new room and shops. Some low-key evening nearby island of Hulhudheli (population 720)
Thor Heyerdahl’s book The Maldive discoveries. The magnitude of this pre- entertainment is organised, and there’s an is a community of traditional silversmiths.
Mystery has an entire chapter about this historic cult centre seemed quite out of interesting programme of excursions and Most of the gold and silver work on sale in
island. His expedition unearthed many proportion to the size of the island. fishing trips. Male’ now seems to be imported, though
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phallic stone carvings, like the lingam as- Beaches are pretty all around, but the the gold chains and medallions worn by
sociated with the Hindu god Shiva in his The diving in the area is the other main lagoon is shallow on the south side, and many children may be made in these
manifestation as the creator. Some of these attraction. not suitable for swimming on the east islands. Many of the craftspeople here are
images can be seen in the National Museum Filitheyo Reef, the kandu south of Filitheyo side. The north side has it all – soft sand, now making jewellery, beads and carvings
in Male’. Heyerdahl’s expedition also found resort, is now a Protected Marine Area good swimming, and an accessible house from black corals and mother-of-pearl.
ruins apparently from an ancient gate, one and has several diving possibilities. Only reef that’s great for snorkelling. Qualified Ribudhoo is quite accessible from the
of seven surrounding a great pagan tem- accessible by boat, the house reef on the divers can do unguided dives off the house resorts, but Hulhudheli would be a long
ple complex. You can visit Nilandhoo on southeast corner of the resort descends in reef too. day trip.
 164 S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • D h a a l u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • T h a a 165

Sights & Activities On one side, a wide beach faces a la- THAA government-owned STO (State Trading
DIVING goon that’s perfect for sailing and sheltered Thaa administrative district, or Kolhu- Organisation) refrigeration plant and a
A big attraction of these resorts is the access swimming, while on the other side a nice madulu Atoll, is a large, slightly flattened fish-canning factory.
to infrequently explored dive sites. but narrower beach fronts a house reef that circle about 60km across, and one of the There are numerous archaeological sites
A channel on the northern edge of the offers excellent snorkelling. Divers are well major fishing regions of the country. It con- in Laamu, with evidence of pre-Muslim
atoll, Fushi Kandu is a Protected Marine catered for by Sun International Diving School sists of 13 inhabited islands and is home civilisations on many islands. At the north-
Area. Steps on the east side have eagle rays (www.sundivingschool.com), which offers very to about 9300 people. The capital island eastern tip of the atoll, on Isdhoo (popu-
and white-tip reef sharks. Thilas inside the reasonably priced dives and a full range of is Veymandhoo (population 1800). All the lation 1100), a giant, black dome rises
channel are covered with hard and soft courses including nitrox. islands are on the edges of the atoll, mostly above the palms. Who built the ancient
corals, and are frequented by turtles, Na- Vilu Reef is a good choice – combining clustered around the kandus, and they’re artificial mound, known as a hawitta, and
poleon fish and schooling snappers. Look friendly informality with some class and quite densely settled. Thimarafushi (popu- for what reason, is not really known. Bud-
for yellowmouth morays and scorpion fish style – and it’s a great place to come for lation 2300), near the capital, is the most dha images have been found on the island,
in the crevices. people looking for diving and pampering. populous island, and with two other islands and HCP Bell believed such mounds to
Macro Spot, a sheltered, shallow giri, In 2005 Velavaru Island Resort (Velavaru island; makes up a sizable community. Ruins of a be the remains of Buddhist stupas, while
makes a suitable site for snorkellers, novices %6760028; www.velavaru.com; s/d/t US$349/357/442; 25m-wide mound on the island of Kibidhoo Heyerdahl speculated that Buddhists had
and macrophotographers. Overhangs and airport transfer by seaplane 35min, US$270; 84 rooms; show this group of islands has been popu- built on even earlier mounds left by the
nooks shelter lobsters, cowries, glassfish, ai ) became the Banyan Tree hotel lated for many years. legendary Redin people. For many years
blennies and gobies. chain’s third property in the Maldives, and On Guraidhoo (population 1700), in an- the mound was a landmark for boats navi-
it was a much needed post-tsunami boost to other island group, is the grave of Sultan gating between the atolls, but it didn’t save
Resorts the country’s shaky tourist industry when Usman I, who ruled the Maldives for only the British cargo ship Lagan Bank, which
A classy but reasonably priced resort is the Singapore-based luxury hotelier coolly two months before being banished here. On was wrecked here on 13 January 1938. The
a rare beast in the Maldives and Vilu Reef announced that it had bought the property Dhiyamigili (population 484) there are ruins Friday Mosque on Isdhoo is around 300 years
(Meedhuffushi island; %6760011; www.vilureef.com; s/ for US$20m. As well as shoring up the local of the palace of Mohammed Imaaduddeen old. It was probably built on the site of an
d/wb US$200/240/540; airport transfer by seaplane 35min, travel industry, the information also an- II, a much more successful sultan who ruled earlier temple because it faces directly west,
US$260; 101 rooms; ais) is regarded as swered, if in a gob-smacking kind of way, from 1704 to 1721 and founded one of the rather than towards Mecca, which is to the
a well-guarded secret by its many repeat the question much-asked by holidaymakers Maldives’ longest-ruling dynasties. northwest.
visitors. It’s small, with huge palms and in the Maldives: how much does one of The northern island of Buruni (population Bell also found quite a few mounds on
great beaches almost all the way around these islands cost anyway? 570) is a centre for carpenters, many of Gan (also known as Gamu) island, which
the island, which are especially good on the Immediately the resort, which began op- whom work elsewhere, building boats and he also believed to be Buddhist stupas, and
lagoon side. The island itself is thick with eration in 1989, started a process of refur- tourist resorts. The women make coir rope he found a fragment of a stone Buddha
trees and bushes and, despite being quite bishing itself along the lines of its now sister and reed mats. Around the mosque are an face, which he estimated was from a statue
crowded, has been developed with consid- resorts Banyan Tree and Angsana Ihuru. old sundial and tombstones that have been over 4m high. Almost nothing remains of
erable care. The new-look accommodation has a strong dated to the late 18th century. The island of these structures because the stones have
The style is traditional on the outside Asian feel and the room categories are di- Kalhufahalafushi has been allocated but it is been removed to use in more modern
(white walls, thatched roofs) and modern vided up into beach bungalows, deluxe not yet operational. buildings. There are mounds on several
convenience inside. The rooms are round beach bungalows and island bungalows other islands in Laamu, including Kadhoo,
and have most mod cons (but no TV), as (the highest category). Each is gorgeously LAAMU Maandhoo and Hithadhoo – one is over
well as decent outdoor bathrooms. attired in an effortlessly chic way. Geographically known as Hadhdhun- 5m high.
The main Nautilus restaurant provides Velavaru has wide sandy beaches where mathee Atoll, Laamu administrative district The island of Olhuveli has been allocated
big buffets for every meal and they are of a turtles once nested – Velavaru means tur- has about 13,000 people living on its 12 and will at some point become Laamu’s
high international standard. This is a quiet tle island. The wide lagoon is no good for inhabited islands, and it’s one of the major first tourist resort.
resort with the odd bit of live music, but snorkelling, but there are two free snorkel- fishing centres in the country. Freezer ships
Vilu is certainly not a place for kicking ling trips every day. Dive sites in this atoll anchor near the former capital, Hithadhoo GAAF ALIF
nightlife. are not well documented, but the Velavaru (population 930), collecting fresh fish direct The giant Huvadhoo Atoll, one of the
Some British guests on all-inclusive Marine Centre is working on changing that. from the dhonis. largest true coral atolls in the world, is
packages might also be up for the crab It charges US$60 for a boat dive with all The island of Kadhoo has an airfield (air- separated from Laamu by the 90km-wide
races, cultural shows and disco. Most guests equipment provided; an open-water course port code KDO) that has five flights a week Huvadhoo Kandu. This stretch of water
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are from Germany, and many of them are costs US$628. Two excellent restaurants, a to/from Male’. Kadhoo is linked by cause- is also called the One-and-a-Half-Degree
divers with little energy left to party. Ten- bar and spa complete the picture of a mod- ways to the large island of Fonadhoo (popu- Channel, because of its latitude, and it’s the
nis, badminton, volleyball and a gym cater ern high-end resort at reasonable prices. lation 1700) to the south, which is now the safest place for ships to pass between the
for the more sports minded, and there’s Things have been changing fast at Ve- atoll capital. The causeway also goes north atolls that make up the Maldives.
windsurfing, sailing and motorised water lavaru, but if stylish seclusion, enormous to the islands of Maandhoo (population Because Huvadhoo is so big, and per-
sports. The Amaan Spa offers the full range natural beauty and great diving sound like 530) and Gan (population 2450), forming haps as a response to the ‘southern rebel-
of treatments from massage to pedicure and things you’re looking for, this is a very at- one of the longest stretches of road in the lion’ (see p167), the atoll is divided into
has six treatment rooms. tractive resort. country – all of 12km. Maandhoo has a two administrative districts. The northern
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166 S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • G a a f D h a a l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l 167

district is called Gaaf Alif, and it has 10 hoo, a small airport (airport code KDM) FOAMMULAH ATOLL 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
mosque, the oldest one on the island, and
inhabited islands and about 8300 people. has daily connections to Male’ with Island Thundi To Male'
believed it had been built on the founda-
Beach A B
Viligili, the capital island, is also the most

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Aviation, and the surfing safari boats meet (460km) tions of an earlier structure built by skilled
populated with about 2900 people. Just clients there. Bundara
stonemasons. Another old mosque, on
south, the island of Kudhoo has an ice plant On Gadhdhoo (population 2600), women Kuli the north side of the island, had expertly
and fish-packing works. The atoll also has make superb examples of the mats known 1 (120m) Rasgefanu made stonework in its foundations and in
some productive agriculture, much of it on as tundu kunaa, which are woven from spe- Dadimagee
an adjacent stone bath.
Kodey (population 420). This island also has cial reeds found on an adjacent island. Sou- Kuli INDIAN Foammulah is not an easy destination
OCEAN
four hawittas – evidence of Buddhist set- venir shops in Male’ and on some resorts To Addu Atoll
New
Harbour
for modern travellers. It has no hotels or
tlement. Heyerdahl discovered a limestone sell these mats – those from Gadhdhoo are (Approx 40km)
guesthouses and only a couple of teashops,
carving here, which he believed to be of the the softest and most finely woven. so you’ll need an invitation from a local
Hindu water god Makara. The statue must Just southwest of Gadhdhoo, the un- a safe anchorage has always limited fishing to get a permit. To get to Foammulah you
have been here before the Buddhist period, inhabited island of Gan has remnants of activity and made it difficult to get passen- go via Gan, which has several scheduled
and is perhaps 1000 years old. one the most impressive hawittas, origi- gers and goods ashore. With help from the flights a day from Male’. From Gan it’s
In the centre of the atoll, Dhevvadhoo nally a pyramid with stepped ramps on all national government, a new harbour was 50km and you’ll need to charter a speed
(population 970) is not well placed for fish- four sides, like many Mexican pyramids. completed at the eastern tip of the island in boat or you may be able to take the pas-
ing or farming, but the islanders are famous The ruin was 8.5m high and 23m square. 2003, allowing Foammulah to join the mod- senger speed launch which carries about
for their textile weaving and coir-rope mak- Heyerdahl also found stones here deco- ern world by enabling goods and equipment 20 people and takes just over an hour if
ing. There are also mosques from the 16th rated with sun motifs, which he believed to be brought in easily and making develop- the weather is OK. Unfortunately until the
and 17th centuries. were proof of a sun-worshipping society ment of some light industry feasible. Maldives opens up to independent tour-
There are two allocated islands for resort even older than the Buddhist and Hindu A new road links the harbour and the ism, visiting fascinating places like Foam-
development here – Funamadhua and Ha- settlements. main village at the island’s heart. New roads, mulah will be more trouble than it’s worth
dahaa, which should be operational in the In the south of the atoll, only about 20km wetland reclamation and infrastructure to most people.
next few years. from the equator, the island of Vaadhoo has improvements are planned. A 120m-high
two hawittas, and a mosque that dates from telecommunications tower in the island’s ADDU ATOLL
GAAF DHAAL the 17th century. The mosque is elaborately centre is visible from miles away. It makes Definitely one of the best places for in-
Geographically isolated from Male’, but decorated inside and has a stone bath out- the microwave connection north to Gaaf dependent travellers to come, heart-shaped
strategically located on the Indian Ocean side, as well as ancient tombstones carved Dhaal and south to Addu Atoll, and has Addu Atoll is the most southern extreme of
trade routes, Gaaf Dhaal – or Huvadhoo with three different kinds of early Maldiv- reduced the island’s isolation, which now the country and has a very different feel to
Atoll as it is geographically – had independ- ian script. has an Internet café and well-used mobile- it for a number of reasons. It’s good for so-
ent tendencies dating back many years. Now earmarked for development are the phone service. called FITs (fully independent travellers), as
It had its own direct trade links with Sri first two islands – Konottaa and Lonudhoo- Foammulah is officially divided into from Equator Village, the charming budget
Lanka, and the people spoke a distinct hutta – which will open at some point as eight districts, but most of the people live resort on the former British naval base
dialect almost incomprehensible to other resorts. around the north side and across the centre of Gan, you can cycle to three inhabited
Maldivians. The island of Thinadhoo was of the island in villages that appear to be a islands via a causeway – the only resort in
a focal point of the ‘southern rebellion’ GNAVIYANI continuous settlement. Sandy roads criss- the country where you have such access and
against the central rule of Male’ during the Gnaviyani administrative district is made cross the island, and there are lots of motor- freedom.
early 1960s. So much so, that troops from up of just one island, intriguing Foammulah cycles and small pick-up trucks. Many of Addu Atoll is the main economic and ad-
Male’ invaded in February 1962 and de- (sometimes called Fuamulaku). It’s not an the people work in resorts in the tourism ministrative centre in the south of the coun-
stroyed all the homes. The people fled to atoll, but rather a solitary island stuck in zone, and the money they send home partly try, and the only place to rival Male’ in size
neighbouring islands and Thinadhoo was the middle of the Equatorial Channel with accounts for the apparent affluence of the and importance. Its 28,000 people spread
not resettled until four years later. It now a population of around 10,000. About 5km island. out over seven inhabited islands is a huge
has a population of 4900. Huvadhoo Atoll long and 1km wide, it’s the biggest sin- Despite Foammulah’s apparent isola- number in the Maldives. With the airport
was divided into two administrative dis- gle island in the country and one of the tion, navigators passing between the Mid- being upgraded at the time of writing to ac-
tricts, the southern part being Gaaf Dhaal, most fertile, producing many fruits and dle East, India and Southeast Asia have commodate long-haul flights and the huge,
which now has nearly 12,000 people on vegetables such as mangoes, papayas, or- long used the Equatorial Channel. Ibn luxury Shangri-La resort being built on the
10 inhabited islands and Thinadhoo as its anges and pineapples. Yams grow so well Battuta visited in 1344, stayed for two nearby island of Viligili, the region will play
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S O U T H E R N AT O L L S
capital. here that they were once a dietary staple, months and married two women. Two an important role in the future development
Though remote from any resorts, Gaaf though rice is now preferred. The natural Frenchmen visited in 1529 and admired of the Maldives’ travel market.
Dhaal has a small but growing number vegetation is lush, and there are two fresh- the old mosque at the west end of the There is an independent streak in the
of foreign visitors who make boat trips water lakes. island. In 1922 HCP Bell stopped here Addu folk – they even speak differently
around the southeastern edge of the atoll A beach goes around most of the island, briefly, and noted a 7m-high hawitta. from the people of Male’. Tensions came
to surf the uncrowded waves that break but the fringing reef is quite narrow and is Heyerdahl found the hawitta in poor to a head in the 1960s under the leader-
around the channel entrances (see p81). pounded by big waves on whatever side is condition, and found remnants of another ship of Abdulla Afif Didi, who was elected
On the island of Kaadedhoo, near Thinad- exposed to the prevailing swells. The lack of nearby. He also investigated the nearby president of the ‘United Suvadiva Islands’,
 168 S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l 169

comprising Addu, Foammulah and Hu- who spoke good English and had experi- have all but disappeared in most parts of the The British took over the entire island
vadhoo. Afif declared independence from ence working for Westerners. When the country. It’s not all good, though – corals and constructed airport buildings, bar-
the Maldives, but an armed fleet sent south tourism industry took off in the late 1970s, inside the lagoon suffered as badly as any- racks, jetties, maintenance sheds, a Naafi
by Prime Minister Ibrahim Nasir quashed many of the men of Addu went to Male’ where else from coral bleaching. (Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes)
the short-lived southern rebellion. Afif fled to seek work in resorts and tourist shops. The British Loyalty Wreck has a good cover- canteen, a golf course, tennis courts and
the country, but is still talked about on his They have never lost their head start in the ing of soft corals, and turtles, trevally and a 2600m concrete runway. For more infor-
home island of Hithadhoo. He went to live tourism business and to this day, in resorts many reef fish inhabit the encrusted decks. mation about RAF Gan, go to www.gan
in the Seychelles, where he ultimately rose all over the country, there’s a better than This oil tanker was torpedoed in 1944 by .philliptsmall.me.uk. Many of these struc-
to the position of foreign minister. even chance that the Maldivian staff will the German submarine U-183, which fired tures remain, some picturesquely run-
The biggest influence on Addu’s mod- be from Addu. through an opening in the antisubmarine down, others used for various purposes.
ern history has been the British bases, Tourism development in Addu itself has nets at the entrance to Gan Kandu. The Most of the island’s lush native vegetation
first established on Gan during WWII been slow to start, due to bad transport disabled ship stayed in the atoll until 1946 was cleared, but the British then land-
as part of the Indian Ocean defences. In links. Now there are several flights a day when it was towed to its present location scaped with new plants – avenues of cas-
1956, when the British could no longer to Male’ and direct charter flights to Gan and used for target practice by another Brit- uarinas, clumps of bougainvillea, swaths
use Sri Lanka, they developed a Royal Air should be in operation from 2007. ish ship. The 140m wreck lies in 33m of of lawn and even roses. It’s much more
Force base on Addu as a strategic Cold water with its port side about 16m below spacious than most resort islands and it
War outpost. The base had around 600 Sights & Activities the surface. has a slightly weird and eerie atmosphere,
personnel permanently stationed here, DIVING The northeastern edge of Maa Kandu has but it’s very peaceful and relaxed – like an
with up to 3000 during periods of peak A particular highlight of Addu is the mag- a wide reef top, between 5m and 7m, cov- old, abandoned movie set.
activity. The British built a series of cause- nificent coral here, much of which escaped ered with live acrophora corals – big brain One sight is a low-key memorial to those
ways connecting Feydhoo, Maradhoo and the widespread coral bleaching of 1998. If corals, long branching staghorns and table who served on the base, including Indian

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Hithadhoo islands and employed most you go diving elsewhere in the Maldives corals 3m across. White-tip reef sharks, eagle regiments such as the 13th Frontier Force
of the population on or around the base. and then come here you’ll be amazed. On rays and sometimes mantas can be spotted, Rifles and the Royal Bombay Sappers &
In 1976 the British pulled out, leaving an the northern edge of the atoll you can see along with turtles and numerous reef fish. Miners. Dozens died here ‘in the service
airport, some large industrial buildings, huge table corals that might be hundreds It’s an excellent site for snorkelling. of their country’, though the atoll saw no
barracks and a lot of unemployed people of years old, and fields of staghorns that Kuda Kandu is another superb sight near action at all apart from the 1944 attack on
to Maa Kandu where a huge array of coral the British Loyalty. Big guns, which were
ADDU ATOLL 0 5 km
thrives between 5m and 15m. Currents can part of the WWII defences, now guard the

ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
0 3 miles
be strong here, so it’s not for novices. memorial. Across the road are the post of-
A B C D Off the northeast corner of the atoll Shark fice, some telephones and a branch of the
To Foammulah Atoll
Odossaa Koattey (40km); Male' (490km) Boduheragadu
4
Point, sometimes called the Shark Hotel, is Bank of Maldives. The old Astra cinema,
Ibileehaahera a plateau at about 30m. Grey reef sharks a fixture at all RAF bases, has a few nifty
1 Koahera INDIAN cruise around here, white-tip reef sharks lie 1950s architectural touches. Several times
Maahera OCEAN Hulhumeedhoo on the sand and other sharks can be seen in a week it shows Indian and Sri Lankan

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ὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Hithadhoo deeper water further out. movies to entertain the Sri Lankan gar-
2 ment workers who now work on the island
u
Kuda Kand

(72m)
Kuda
Kandu Huraa GAN and live in the former barracks. There are
Kandiheraganda Gan is atypical of the Maldives; it has a far several pleasant cafés scattered around the
Fathikedeheragandu
more colonial feel and a refreshingly differ- island.
Heretere ent atmosphere from anywhere else in the West of the Equator Village resort is a

ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄ
country. Even though you’ll be staying at a complex of buildings that used to be the
2 resort here, there’s much more to do and officers’ mess and living quarters. It’s now
1

Aboohera
see here than at your standard Maldivian the ‘Dhoogas’, a facility providing accom-
desert island. modation for visiting government officials,
Hankede
Inhabited since ancient times, Gan was and off-limits to foreigners. A small and un-
Hankede Hajara Maradhoo the site where HCP Bell excavated a large imposing building here was once a chapel,
9m-high mound. Bell believed it to be but has been converted to a mosque. You
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S O U T H E R N AT O L L S
Maradhoofeydhoo the ruins of a Buddhist stupa. His expe- can walk or cycle right around the island
Boduhajara
Feydhoo 6 dition made careful measurements of the on narrow dirt roads, crossing the airport
Savaaheli 7
5
Villingili site, took photos and made precise draw- runway at each end. You’ll see lots of trees
3 3 ings that are published in his monograph. and greenery, a couple of graveyards and
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dhigihera Airport Terminal RESORTS
British Loyalty Wreck....................1 B2
Kuda Kandu...............................(see 2) Causeway Gan
Gan Airport
Madihera
Equator Village.............................5 B3
Shangri-La Maldives Resort & Spa..6 C3
This was fortunate, as the archaeological a few incongruous buildings. There are no
Maa Kandu...................................2 B1 Vasha
Hera
Ga
nK sites and almost everything else on Gan decent beaches and no surfable waves –
Memorial.....................................3 B3 an TRANSPORT
Shark Point..................................4 D1
du
Landing for Boats to Fuamulaku...7 B3
were levelled to create the air-force base just the Indian Ocean crashing on a broad,
in 1956. shallow reef.
 170 S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l 171

FEYDHOO, MARADHOO & HITHADHOO villages that have run together – the south- be seen on www.angelfire.com/country Despite the British bias to the food, most
The causeways and the new road go from ern one is called Maradhoo-Feydhoo. The /addumeedhoo/gallery/album.html. You’ll of the guests are actually from Germany,
Gan to the atoll capital Hithadhoo via Fey- first thing you’ll see as you approach up need to charter a dhoni to get here; inquire although Brits make up the second biggest
dhoo and Maradhoo as well as some other the road is the boat-building activity on at Equator Village. group along with a mix of other Europeans.
tiny islands that are now joined together. the lagoon side. More than half are divers, and from time
There are no spectacular attractions along Further north, the road follows an isth- Resorts to time ex-RAF personnel who were once
the way, but the smaller villages are an mus that was once three narrow, uninhab- For our money Equator Village (Gan island; stationed here come back for a nostalgic
absolute delight. Local teashops serve tea, ited islands. One island used to house an % 6898721; www.equatorvillage.com; all-inclusive s/d holiday. An RAF visitor’s book at recep-
cakes and ‘short eats’, and some will have ammunition bunker. After a few kilometres US$100/130; flight from Male’ to Gan 1½hr, US$271, com- tion has more than 50 signatures, and some
a more substantial fish curry. Though you of palm tree–lined road you pass a recy- plimentary bus service from airport; 78 rooms; as) books and photo albums are also kept here
don’t need a permit to visit, tourists are cling zone and a sports ground with several is one of the best resorts in the country (available on request).
supposed to be back at Gan before dark. football pitches and a grandstand. You’re and it’s also one of the cheapest. The addi- Bicycles are available for exploring the
Remember that these villages are inevitably on Hithadhoo, the Maldives’ largest town tional expense of flying to Gan from Male’ neighbouring islands at $5/10 per half-/
very conservative, so dress modestly. outside Male’, with a population of 13,000. is quickly offset by the low, low room rates full day, although they’re free with the all-
Like most Maldivian villages they are The Dhiraagu office near the tower has and the all-inclusive packages they come inclusive deal, along with an island-hopping
laid out on a rectangular grid with wide, pay phones and an Internet café. Further with. excursion, night fishing trip and twice-daily
straight, sandy streets and white coral- up the road are a new mosque and several Equator Village is relaxed and friendly boat to Viligili for snorkelling and beach
stone houses. A few vehicles will be seen, schools – the high school is one of two out- and more than a little bizarre. The rooms time.
but for most of the day the streets are side Male’ that teaches up to A level (ma- are actually the former barracks of the The only beach on Gan is a few hun-
empty. In the early morning, and espe- triculation). There’s nothing in particular British Naval Base here – there’s been an dred metres east of the resort, and it’s
cially the evening, locals will be out walk- to see here, but there are a few shops and effort to disguise this but it’s clear when not great – don’t come here if you want
ing or cycling, sitting outside their houses just wandering and seeing a real Maldivian you know the truth how little has really to re-enact the Bounty advert. It’s one of
or leaning against the low front walls. town is quite something. changed. Neat lines of rooms fan out from the few resorts in the country that doesn’t
Shady trees overhang the streets and you Near the main road there are several the main reception building, and are sur- provide the fabulous turquoise-water and
can usually catch a glimpse of the sea at light-industry buildings and a power sta- rounded by extremely mature and well- white-sand combo. However, divers take
one end of the street or the other. tion, while a grid of streets with traditional tended gardens that overflow with exotic note: the coral here is flabbergasting – and
Most of the houses have corrugated iron houses extends to the western seashore. A flowers and plants. this should definitely jump high up the list
roofs, but are otherwise traditional. Older few teashops and some quite big, new com- The rooms are modern, basic and thor- of top diving resorts. The dive centre is
buildings are made of coral-stone while mercial premises are appearing here too. oughly unromantic – this is not a hon- a small but friendly operation run by Di-
newer ones are of concrete blocks. There’s Beyond the built-up area, the tip of the eymooners’ destination. They are also verland (www.diverland.com) and includes the
usually a courtyard or an open space with island bends to the east, and is covered with spacious and have everything you need great dive sites in the area at very reason-
a shady tree and a joli or undholi providing coconut plantations, swampy lakes and a (although no TV or phone), including an able prices.
a cool place to sit in the heat of the day. surprising amount of woodland. The coast en-suite bathroom and air-con. FITs and anyone else wanting to see
Notice the big, square chimney blocks – is mostly too rocky or shallow for bathing, The reception, bar and dining areas have something of the real Maldives will really
there are wooden racks inside where fish but there are some narrow beaches. Rough been created from the old mess, thoroughly appreciate Equator Village as it allows you
are hung to be smoked. Another distinc- roads go right to the tip of the island at redecorated in very unmilitary pink, white to see much more of daily Maldivian life;
tive feature can be seen at street junctions, Koattey, also called Demon Point. It’s said and grey. These open-sided spaces with you can cycle to Hithadoo via the new road
where walls and buildings all have rounded there was once a fort here, and later a Brit- their cane furniture and ceiling fans look and you generally enjoy a much higher level
corners. ish gun emplacement, but there’s nothing out onto a sizable free-form swimming pool of freedom here.
You can easily walk from Gan to Feyd- left to see now. It feels like the end of the and through palm trees to the blue sea be- Still a building site when we visited,
hoo (population 4400), which has several earth. yond. The full-size billiard table is a hand- Shangri-La Maldives Resort & Spa (Viligili Island;
mosques – a large, new white one, a small, some inheritance from the Brits, as are the www.shangri-la.com; 184 rooms; ais ), the
pretty blue one, and several old ones on the HULHUMEEDHOO first-class tennis courts. Shangri-La group’s first venture in the
sandy back roads that look a little like tiny At the northeast corner of the lagoon, The meals are all buffet with a limited Maldives, is a huge undertaking and is
churches. On the new lagoon-side road are this island has two adjoining villages, selection and a British bias – expect fairly due to open in mid-2007. It will bring
several new buildings, like the modern pet- Hulhudoo and Meedhoo, both known as good curry, roast beef, mashed potatoes the high-end luxury market to the very
rol station, a big store and a teahouse/café Hulhumeedhoo, with a total population and tinned fruit for dinner; and sausages, southern tip of the Maldives and hopefully
S O U T H E R N AT O L L S

S O U T H E R N AT O L L S
with a Rf20 buffet. Boats to Foammulah use of about 5500. Local legend says that an eggs and cereal for breakfast. The Maldiv- coincide with the opening of Gan Interna-
the small harbour here. Arab was shipwrecked here in about 872, ian barbecue buffet is the best meal of the tional Airport.
When the British took over, the villag- and converted the islanders to Islam 280 week. Most guests are on an all-inclusive The resort is to be split into three ac-
ers from Gan were resettled on Feydhoo, years before the people of Male’. The cem- package, and can wash it down with beer commodation ‘concepts’ (their term, not
and some of the people from Feydhoo were etery is known for its ancient headstones, or house wine. There’s not a lot of organ- ours) with the unbelievably pretentious
then moved to the next island, Maradhoo, many of which are beautifully carved with ised evening entertainment, but the bar is names Lost Horizon, Whispering Palms
where they formed a new village. Marad- the archaic Dhives Akuru script. A his- one of the friendliest and most fun in the and Windance (their spelling, not ours). Of
hoo now has a population of 3000 in two tory on this remote little community can Maldives. course it will be magnificent when it’s open,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
172 S O U T H E R N AT O L L S • • A d d u A t o l l www.lonelyplanet.com

as any resort hoping to compete in the in- Getting Around

creasingly luxurious top-end hotel market The best way to get around Gan and over
here has to be. Watch this space. the causeway to neighbouring villages is by
bicycle. Equator Village includes bicycle hire
Getting There & Away in its rates, but they aren’t too comfortable
Island Aviation flies from Male’ to Gan and for tall people. Taxis shuttle between the
back two or three times a day. The standard islands and around the villages; from Gan
fare for foreigners is US$271 return. to Hithadhoo should cost about Rf100. Taxis
Private yachts should report by radio to wait at the airport and you can order one
the NSS in Gan or Hithadhoo to arrange from Equator Village. The buses you see on
security and customs clearance, but may the main road are only for workers in the
have to continue to Male’ for health and Gan garment factories. Equator Village picks
immigration checks to complete the ‘clear- up guests by free minibus from the airport,
in’ process. though you may need to call at arrival.
S O U T H E R N AT O L L S

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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173

DIREC TORY
Directory
country. We list all the operating resorts
CONTENTS in this book, as well as many that were re-
furbishing at the time of writing and those
Accommodation 173
that are planned to open during the life-
Business Hours 174
time of this book.
Children 174
The government’s ‘one island, one re-
Climate Chart 175
sort’ policy means that development is
Courses 175
contained and nowhere in the country
Customs 175
feels crowded. Each resort provides rooms,
Dangers & Annoyances 175
meals and activities for its guests, ranging
Embassies & Consulates 176
from the simplest beach huts with a buf-
Food 176
fet three times a day and a simple diving
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 176
school to vast water villas with every con-
Holidays 176
ceivable luxury in them, à la carte dining
Insurance 177
and every activity from kiteboarding to big
Internet Access 177
game fishing.
Legal Matters 177
Most resorts have a large selection of
Maps 177
room categories, so for the sake of ease we
Money 178
give the rate for the lowest category of room
Post 179
and for the lowest category of water bunga-
Solo Travellers 180
low (if available). These prices also include
Telephone 180
the US$8 per person per night government
Time 180
bed tax and a 10% service charge.
Toilets 180
Also, be aware that these are rack rates,
Tourist Information 180
ie those given to fully independent travel-
Travellers With Disabilities 181
lers (FITs) who book direct with the re-
Travel Permits 181
sort. Any travel agency that has a contract
Visas 182
with the resort will have access to far lower
Women Travellers 182
rates.
Budget resorts (up to US$240 per dou-
ACCOMMODATION ble room per night) tend to be busier and
Ouch. That’s most people’s reaction to Mal- more basic in their facilities and sophis-
divian resort prices, and it’s fair to say this is tication than more expensive resorts. Few
not and will never be a cheap place to stay. budget resorts are being built these days so
Even budget hotels cost more than a top- those that do exist tend to be dated from
end place in India or Sri Lanka, but quality the 1980s or ’90s, and are often in need of
in general is superior to elsewhere in Asia. a lick of paint.
In this book we list accommodation for Midrange resorts (from US$240 to
each chapter, divided into three groups: US$500 per night) make up the majority
budget, midrange and top end. For each op- of the Maldives accommodation options.
tion a bed-and-breakfast room rate is quoted They are noticeably slicker, better run and
for the height of the season (December to have a better standard of facilities and ac-
April) unless otherwise stated. There are al- commodation, all carried off with some
most no single rooms, so singles are nearly style.
always doubles for single occupation. Top-end resorts (more than US$500 per
night) are currently what the Maldives is
Resorts all about. The world-class standards are
The vast majority of accommodation for uniform in this category and range from
travellers consists of the roughly 100 self- the very good to the mind-bogglingly
contained island resorts throughout the luxurious.
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DIREC TORY
in these terms with hoards needing to be Practicalities cannot be brought into the country and
BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE catered for. Be aware that many resorts do not en- you’re advised to comply. Baggage is always
For more accommodation reviews and rec- The working week elsewhere in the courage young children – check with the X-rayed and may be searched carefully, and
ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, Maldives runs from Sunday to Thursday. resort directly – and that children under if you have any liquor it will be taken and
check out the online booking service at Friday and to a lesser extent Saturday five are often banned from honeymoon held for you till you’re about to leave the
www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, are rest days and it’s advisable to avoid resorts. Where kids are welcome, it’s no country. This service will not extend to
insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Male’ and local islands on Fridays as they problem booking cots and organising high other prohibited items, and the importa-
Reviews are thorough and independent. become like ghost towns. On work days, chairs in restaurants, and there’s often a tion of multiple bibles, pornography and
Best of all, you can book online. businesses operate from 8am or 9am until babysitting service and kids club in bigger, in particular, drugs, will be treated very
5pm or 6pm, but this varies. Shops in family-oriented resorts. Nappies are avail- seriously.
Male’ will often stay open until around able in Male’, but usually not in resorts, The export of turtle shell, or any turtle-
Booking resorts through travel agents 10pm or 11pm, and some will shut in the so bring all the nappies and formula shell products, is forbidden.
is nearly always cheaper than doing so heat of the afternoon – from midday until you’ll need for the duration of the holi-
directly. However, with the (slow) rise of 3pm or thereabouts. Nearly all Male’ busi- day. Breast-feeding should only be done DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
independent travel in the Maldives, some nesses stop several times a day for prayers, in private. It’s hard to imagine anywhere much safer
resorts offer some great deals via their which can be frustrating for shoppers, as than the Maldives. Theft from resorts is
websites. businesses suddenly close up for about CLIMATE CHART very rare, given that only staff and guests
half an hour. Most banks in Male’ are The Maldives has a tropical climate distin- have access to the resort island; but still,
Hotels open from about 8am to 1.30pm, Sunday guished by two seasons, or monsoons: the make use of the safes in the rooms, keep
The only hotels in the country are lo- to Thursday, or 9.30am to 12.30pm dur- dry northeast monsoon from December to your doors locked and don’t leave cash
cated in the capital Male’. As these are far ing Ramazan. March, and the wet southwestern monsoon around wherever you are.
cheaper than the island resorts, we’ve used Government offices are open Sunday from May to November, with more strong The most likely danger is sunburn –
a separate price breakdown for the capi- to Thursday from 7.30am to 2pm. During winds and rain. April is a transitional period don’t ever underestimate the power of
tal’s hotels: budget (under US$50), mid- Ramazan, hours are from 9am to 1.30pm. noted for clear water and heat. The tempera- the equatorial sun at midday on a bright,
range (US$50 to US$80) and top end (over Teashops can open very early or close ture remains remarkably consistent at around cloudless afternoon. Sadly many people
US$80). The choice is not inspiring and the very late. During Ramazan the places 30°C. For more on weather, see p12. do, and receive bad burning and exposure
rooms are often cramped due to the short- where locals eat will probably be closed to dangerous UV rays. Ensure you sun-
age of space (see p98). during daylight hours, but will bustle after Average bathe with a high-factor lotion the first
MALE’ 2m (8ft) Max/Min
dark. couple of days and be particularly care-
°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
Safari Boats 40 104 16 400
ful when snorkelling or travelling by boat
Live-aboard safari boats allow you to travel CHILDREN (when the breeze can make it seem far
extensively throughout the country, visiting Younger children will enjoy a couple of 30 86 12 300 cooler than it is).
great dive sites, desert islands and small weeks on a Maldivian resort island, particu- Second to the sun is the water. While it’s
20 68 8 200
local settlements usually too remote to see larly if they like playing in the water and on true most diving accidents happen on the
travellers. Live-aboards also range from the beach. Though exotic cuisine is some- 10 50 4 100 diving boat, it’s extremely important to take
simple to luxury. The advantage is that you times on the menu, there are always some diving seriously.
0 32 0 0
can visit many places off-limits to resort pretty standard Western-style dishes that J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D Don’t touch coral, shells or fish. Beware
travellers, dive in pristine places and enjoy a kids will find OK. of the possibility of strong currents and
very sociable atmosphere. Prices range from Older children and teenagers could find don’t swim too far out from an island’s
bargain basement to exorbitant depending a resort a little confining after a few days COURSES fringing reef, or too far from a boat on a
on the facilities available (see p58). and they may get bored. Canoeing and Diving courses are a particular attraction snorkelling trip. Don’t try surfing unless
fishing trips might provide some diver- for travellers to the Maldives. The stand- you know where you are and what you’re
Inhabited Islands sion, while a course in sailing or wind- ard learn-to-dive course is an open-water doing – the surf breaks over coral reefs
There’s no commercial accommodation in surfing could be a great way to spend a certificate, but the bigger dive centres and you could be badly grazed, or knocked
the island villages, and visitors are not legally holiday. Table tennis, tennis, volleyball or offer a host of advanced and speciality unconscious.
permitted to pay for a place to stay. If for badminton might also appeal. The mini- courses, including advanced open water, It would be unlucky to be hit by a falling
whatever reason you do stay on an inhabited mum age for scuba diving is 16 years, but divemaster, night diving and so on (see coconut, but it does happen, more so in
island, you’ll be put up in the house of the most resorts offer a ‘bubble blowers’ intro- p66 for more information). windy weather. Imagine a 2kg coconut fall-
kateeb (island chief), or a house maintained duction for younger kids, which is very ing 15m onto your head. Check if a coconut
for the purpose of accommodating guests. popular. CUSTOMS tree is laden with big coconuts before lying
The main danger is sunburn, so bring The immigration cards issued to you on underneath it.
BUSINESS HOURS sun hats and sunblock. Lycra swim shirts your flight to Male’ include a great list of Crimes of violence are very unusual,
Male’ is really the only place you have to are an excellent idea – they can be worn on items that are banned from the republic. Al- but there are burglaries and theft in the
worry about business hours in the Mal- the beach and in the water and block out cohol, pornography, pork, narcotics, dogs, capital. There are very few cases of theft
dives, the resorts being far more flexible most UV radiation. firearms, spear guns and ‘idols of worship’ from resort rooms. Nevertheless, it’s wise
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DIREC TORY
to deposit your valuables with the resort GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS Bodu Eid Also called Eid-ul Al’h’aa, the Festival of the Worldwide cover for travellers from over
office, to keep your room locked and not This is a grey area legally in the Maldives, sacrifice, 66 days after the end of Ramazan, this is the time 44 countries is available online at www
leave cash lying around. where gay awareness can hardly be said to when many Muslims begin the pilgrimage (hajj) to Mecca. .lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.
be very high. By Maldivian law all extra- National Day A commemoration of the day Mohammed
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES marital sex is illegal although such mores Thakurufaanu and his men overthrew the Portuguese on INTERNET ACCESS
Maldives Embassies & Consulates are not applied to the resorts, where in Male’ in 1578. It’s on the first day of the third month of the Most resorts have Internet access available
Maldivian diplomatic representatives over- practice anything goes as long as it is low lunar calendar. for guests. In the top-end resorts this will
seas include: key or behind closed doors. Same-sex Prophet’s Birthday The birthday of the Prophet typically be free and may include a wi-fi area
Australia (%03-9349 1473; [email protected]; couples will be able to book a double room Mohammed is celebrated with three days of eating and for people with their own laptops and an
164 Gatehouse Street Parkville, Vic 3052) with no questions asked (from budget to merriment. The approximate start dates for the next few airport card. In other resorts Internet use is
Austria (%013-696 64 40; [email protected]; luxury, Maldivian hotel staff are the model years are: 31 March 2007, 20 March 2008, 9 March 2009, paid for, and rates can vary enormously.
Weima Rer Strasse 104, A-1190 Vienna) of discretion) and it’s common to see same and 26 Feb 2010. Elsewhere in the Maldives, Internet cafés
Belgium (%01 06 892 12; Clos des Genets 17, 1325 sex-couples enjoying Maldivian holidays, Huravee Day The day the Malabars of India were kicked and wi-fi hotspots provide customers with
Chaumont Gistoux) although no resort here markets itself to out by Sultan Hassan Izzuddeen after their brief occupation Web access. Prices are extremely low and in
Germany (%069-2740 44 20; [email protected]; the gay market specifically. Public displays in 1752. the case of wi-fi hotspots in Male’, free.
Bethmannstrasse 58, 60311 Frankfurt am Main) of affection may embarrass Maldivian re- Martyr’s Day Commemorates the death of Sultan Ali VI
Japan (%033-94 26222; 1-26-1 Otowa, Bunkyo-ku, sort staff, but won’t result in anything at the hands of the Portuguese in 1558. LEGAL MATTERS
Tokyo 112-865) but blushes on their part. In Male’ and Alcohol is illegal outside resorts – you’re
Singapore (%62258955; [email protected]; on inhabited islands discretion is key and The following are fixed holiday dates: theoretically not even allowed to take a can
10 Anson Rd, No 18-12 International Plaza) public displays of affection should not be New Year’s Day 1 January of beer out on a boat trip. Some foreign
Sri Lanka (%015-516302; www.maldiveshighcom.lk; indulged in by anyone, gay or straight – Independence Day Celebrates the ending of the British residents in the capital have a liquor permit,
23 Kavirathne Place, Colombo 6) the Maldives remains an extremely con- protectorate on 26 and 27 July. which entitles them to a limited amount per
South Africa (%021-797 9940; 69 Totnes Rd, servative place. Victory Day Celebrates the victory over the Sri Lankan month, strictly for personal consumption at
Plumstead 7800, Cape Town) mercenaries who tried to overthrow the Maldivian gov- home.
UK (%020 7224 2135; www.maldiveshighcommission HOLIDAYS ernment in 1988. A military march is followed by lots of Illicit drugs are around, but are not wide-
.org; 22 Nottingham Place, London WIU 5NJ) If you’re in a resort, Maldivian holidays schoolchildren doing drills and traditional dances, and spread. Penalties are heavy. ‘Brown sugar’,
UN (%212-599-6195; [email protected]; 800 Second will not affect you – service will be as more entertaining floats and costumed processions on 3 a semirefined form of heroin, has become a
Avenue, Ste 400-E, New York, NY 10017) normal. If you visit Male’ or an inhabited November. problem among some young people in the
island on a holiday, you might see some Republic Day Commemorates the second (current) capital and even in some outer islands.
Embassies & Consulates in the parade or public celebration, shops may republic, founded in 1968 on 11 November. Celebrated With a scattered island population and
Maldives not open or may open late in the day, and in Male’ with lots of pomp, brass bands and parades. limited resources, the Maldivian authorities
The foreign representatives in Male’ are government offices and most businesses Sometimes the following day is also a holiday. rely heavily on delegation. Apart from the
mostly honorary consuls with limited pow- will be closed. Christmas, New Year, Easter police and the military, there is a chief on
ers and often nobody in residence. If it’s and European school holidays will affect INSURANCE every atoll and island who must keep an eye
an emergency, then contact your country’s you more – they’re the busiest times for A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, on what is happening, report to the central
embassy or high commission in Colombo, tourists and bring the highest resort prices, loss and medical problems is highly rec- government and be responsible for the ac-
Sri Lanka. although locals don’t celebrate them, of ommended. Some policies offer lower tions of local people.
Sweden, Denmark, Finland & Norway (Map p94; course. and higher medical-expense options; the Every foreigner in the country has, in
%3315174; Abdulla Saeed, Cyprea, 25 Boduthakurufaanu If a holiday falls on a Friday or Saturday, higher ones are chiefly for countries which effect, a Maldivian minder who is respon-
Magu) the next working day will be declared a have high medical costs, and this would sible for him or her. Resorts are responsible
Germany & Austria (Map pp90-1; %3322971; Ibra- holiday ‘on the occasion of’ whatever it be a good idea for a Maldives trip. You for their guests and for what happens on
him Maniku, Universal Enterprises, 38 Orchid Magu) was. Most Maldivian holidays are based may prefer to choose a policy that pays their island. If a guest goes swimming in
India (Map p94; %3323016; Ameer Ahmed Magu) on the Islamic lunar calendar and the dates doctors or hospitals directly rather than the nude, the resort can be fined as well
Italy (Map p94; %3322451; Bandhu Ibrahim Saleem, vary from year to year. your having to pay on the spot and claim as the visitor.
Cyprea, 25 Boduthakurufaanu Magu) Ramazan Known as Ramazan or roarda mas in the Mal- later. If you have to claim later, make sure
Netherlands (Map p94; %3323609; 1/1 Fareedhee dives rather than Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting is you keep all documentation. Some poli- MAPS
Magu) an important religious occasion that starts on a new moon cies ask you to call back (reverse charge) Put simply, the Maldives is a nightmare to
New Zealand (Map p94; %3322432; 30 Boduthakuru- and continues for 28 days. Expected starting dates for the to a centre in your home country where map. The islands are so small and scattered
faanu Magu) next few years are 13 September 2007, 2 September 2008, an immediate assessment of your problem that the result is an extremely confusing
UK (Map pp90-1; %3311205; c/o Dhiraagu, Majeedee 22 August 2009, 11 August 2010. The exact date depends is made. one in which you’re forever trying to dis-
Magu) on the sighting of the new moon in Mecca and can vary by Some policies specifically exclude ‘dan- tinguish between the tiny islands and the
a day or so either way. gerous activities’, which can include diving, reefs that surround them. Another problem
FOOD Kuda Eid Also called Id-ul-Fitr or Fith’r Eid, this occurs at so check your policy carefully if you plan to is scale – the country is over 800km from
See p84 for information about food in the the end of Ramazan, with the sighting of the new moon, dive. See p70 for information on insurance north to south, but the largest island is only
Maldives. and is celebrated with a feast. for divers. about 8km long.
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Several tourist maps are available in Cash something. It’s good form to leave a tip Some of the authorised moneychangers
Male’ and in resort shops, and while they It’s perfectly possible to have a holiday in for your room staff and in smarter resorts, around town will exchange US-dollar or
rather misleadingly only feature the atolls the Maldives without ever touching cash your thakuru (butler). Give any tips to the euro travellers cheques at times when the
in the tourist zone (ie not even half of the of any sort, as in resorts everything will be staff personally, not to the hotel cashier – banks are closed. You can always try some
country) they are by far the most useful and chalked up to your room number and paid US dollars, euros and local currency are of the hardware shops, souvenir shops and
practical for anyone travelling in the Mal- by credit card or travellers cheques on de- equally acceptable. A few dollars a day is fine guesthouses. Most tourist businesses will
dives. The two standard issues are Divers parture. However, it’s a good idea to have for room staff, while anyone carrying your accept US dollars in cash at the standard
& Travellers Maldives Map (Atoll Editions) some cash with you – small-denomination bags might expect US$1 or so per bag. rate, and euros at reasonable rates.
and Satellite Map of the Maldives (Edition US dollars are most handy for tipping staff In Male’ the fancier restaurants usually
MM). The former is the better of the two, and buying sundries in transit. You won’t add a 10% service charge, so you don’t need POST
with far more detail and also including an need Maldivian rufiya unless you’re using to tip. Tipping is not customary in local Postal services are quite efficient, with mail
overview map of all the atolls. The latter is local shops and services. Even these will teashops. Taxi drivers are not tipped, but to overseas destinations delivered promptly;
good for locating resorts. usually take dollars, but you’ll be given porters at the airport expect Rf10 or US$1. mail from overseas, especially packets and
For anyone doing any serious amount of change in rufiya. parcels, is subject to customs screening and
travel, especially diving, Atlas of the Mal- There are no restrictions on changing Travellers Cheques can take considerably longer. The new main
dives (Atoll Editions) is indispensable and money into rufiya, but there’s no need to Banks in Male’ will change travellers post office (Boduthakurufaanu Magu; h8.15am-9pm
in a very practical book form, alleviating change a lot. Rufiya are not readily negoti- cheques and cash in US dollars, and pos- Sun-Thu, 3-9pm Fri, 9.15am-9pm Sat) in Male’ has a
the need to fold out a vast map. It includes able outside the country, so reconvert any sibly UK pounds, euros, Japanese yen and poste restante service.
everything from shipwreck sites to Pro- leftovers at the bank counter in the airport Swiss francs. Most will change US-dollar To send a postcard anywhere overseas
tected Marine Area plans. It’s on sale at the when you leave. travellers cheques into US dollars cash with costs Rf10 and a standard airmail letter to
Novelty Bookshop (p89) in Male’. a commission of US$5. Changing travellers most countries costs Rf12. A high-speed
Credit Cards cheques to Maldivian rufiya should not at- EMS service is available to many countries.
MONEY Every resort takes major credit cards in- tract a commission. Parcel rates can be quite expensive and will
The currency of the Maldives is the ru- cluding Visa, Amex and MasterCard. A
fiya, which is divided into 100 larees. Notes week of diving and drinking could easily
come in denominations of 500, 100, 50, 20, run up a tab over US$2000, so make sure PRACTICALITIES
10, five and two rufiya, but the last two are your credit limit can stand it. The cashier NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
uncommon. Coins are in denominations may want 24 hours’ notice to check your The three Maldivian daily papers are Aufathis, Miadhu and Haveeru, all costing Rf2 and available
of two and one rufiya, and 50, 25 and 10 credit. Many resorts apply a surcharge of from shops throughout the country, although rarely in resorts. They all have some pages in Eng-
larees. The value of the rufiya is pegged 5% to credit-card payments, so it may be lish, although there’s nothing of much interest. The Evening Weekly (www.eveningweekly.com
to that of the US dollar, so the exchange best to have enough travellers cheques to .mv) is the country’s most popular English-language current-affairs magazine, but its articles are
rate between the two currencies never cover the bulk of your extras bill. fairly uninspiring – this is hardly the home of crusading journalism. A smattering of international
changes. Most hotel and travel expenses papers and magazines are available from bookshops in Male’.
will be billed in dollars. If you’re staying in International Transfers
a resort, all extras (including diving costs) Banks in the Maldives are not noted for
will be billed to your room, and you pay their efficiency in international transac- RADIO & TV
the day before departure. Resorts accept tions. A transfer using the ‘Swift’ system TVM, the national TV station, is broadcast from Male’ during the day, with regular breaks for
cash, credit cards or travellers cheques in seems to be the most efficient way to get prayer and much religious content. The rest of the schedule is made up of He-Man reruns, local
all major currencies, although US dollars money to the Maldives. Villa Travels is the news and CNN rebroadcasts in English.
are preferred. agent for Western Union (Map p94; %3329990; Nearly all resorts and Male’ hotels have satellite TV including BBC World, CNN, Star Movies and
See the Quick Reference inside the front [email protected]; Boduthakurufaanu Magu), HBO alongside Sri Lankan, Indian and European channels.
cover for other exchange rates. See also p13 one reliable but expensive way to transfer The Voice of Maldives Radio (www.vom.gov.mv) is broadcast to the whole country for 11 hours
for information on costs. funds. The HSBC Bank (Map p94; Boduthakurufaanu each day on medium wave, 1449kHz, and also at 89MHz. The news, in English, is read at 6pm
Magu) might be your best bet. Try to have for 15 minutes.
ATMs the money handed over to you in US dol-
There’s a slowly growing number of ATMs lars, not rufiya.
ELECTRICITY
in Male’ – most of them (but not all) now
Electricity supply is 220V to 240V, 50Hz AC. The standard socket is the UK-style three-pin, al-
allow you to withdraw funds from inter- Tipping though there are some variations so an international adaptor can be useful (or essential for
national accounts. Those that definitely do Tipping is something of a grey area in the
non-UK travellers).
are those outside the major banks on Bod- Maldives, where 10% service tax is added
uthakurufaanu Magu in Male’. Note that to nearly everything from minibar drinks
while you can do cash advances on credit to room prices. In many places this would WEIGHTS & MEASURES
cards over the counter at Male’ airport and mean that you don’t need to tip in ad- Although the Maldives is officially converting to the metric system, imperial measures are widely
at most resorts, there are no ATMs outside dition, but it’s still the case that people used. Metric measurements are used in this book.
Male’. serving you personally will often expect
DIREC TORY 180 D I R E C T O R Y • • S o l o T r a v e l l e r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • T r a v e l l e r s w i t h D i s a b i l i t i e s 181

DIREC TORY
have to clear customs at the main post of- streets. Every business in Male’ is on the TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Permits are issued by the Ministry of Atolls
fice, where a bored-looking customs official phone, telephone cards are widely available, At Male’ International Airport, passengers Administration (Map p94; Boduthakurufaanu Magu) in
will be stationed to inspect any packages and card phones are numerous. must use steps to get on and off planes, so Male’ and cost Rf10. All foreigners must
you’re sending home. All resorts have IDD phones, either in the contact your airline to find out what ar- have a local sponsor who will guarantee
At the resorts you can buy stamps and rooms or available at reception. Charges vary rangements can be made. The arrivals area their accommodation and be responsible
postcards at the shop or the reception from high to astronomical, starting around is all at ground level, but departure usually for them. Note also that it is illegal for any-
desk. Generally there is a mailbox near US$15 for three minutes; our advice is never involves going up and down stairs. one to request payment for accommodation
reception. to use them outside of an emergency. Transfers to nearby resorts are by dhoni on an inhabited island.
The international country code for the or speedboat and a person in a wheelchair Permit applications must be in writing,
SOLO TRAVELLERS Maldives is %960. All Maldives numbers or with limited mobility will need assist- and include the applicant’s name, pass-
While travelling on your own through the have seven digits and there are no area codes. ance. Transfer to more distant resorts is port number, nationality, the name of the
Maldives can feel akin to spending Valen- If you find you have a six-digit number for often by seaplanes, which can be more dif- island/atoll to be visited, dates of visit, name
tine’s Day alone in a romantic French restau- a Male’ business, add a 3 to the start and ficult to access, but staff are quite experi- and address of sponsor, the name and regis-
rant, it’s perfectly possible and many people it should work. Operator and directory in- enced in assisting passengers in wheelchairs tration number of the vessel to be used, and
do it. As there are almost no single rooms in quiry numbers are %110 for the Maldives or with limited mobility. the purpose of the visit.
the country’s resorts and hotels, you’ll find and %190 for international inquiries. To Most resorts have few steps, ground- If you are going on a diving or sightseeing
that you’ll be paying much more than some- make an international call, dial %00, then level rooms and reasonably smooth paths safari trip through the atolls in a registered
one in a couple, as often the reductions for the country code, area code and number. to beaches, boat jetties and all public areas. vessel with a registered safari company, the
single occupation are tiny. However, if you Staff will be on hand to assist disabled company will obtain the necessary permits
can afford to, there’s nothing stopping you, TIME guests. When you decide on a resort, call before you start. In effect, the company is
and if – like most single travellers in the The Maldives is five hours ahead of GMT, them directly and ask about the layout. It’s acting as your sponsor and supplying ac-
country – you’re here for a specific reason in the same time zone as Pakistan. When usually a good idea for guests to advise the commodation on the boat.
such as diving or surfing, you’ll quickly meet it’s noon in the Maldives, it’s 7am in Lon- tour agency of any special needs, but if you Your sponsor should be a resident of
up with kindred spirits in the resorts where don, 8am in Berlin and Rome, 12.30pm in want to find out about specific facilities, it’s the island you wish to visit, and must be
these activities are most popular. Safari boats India and Sri Lanka, 3pm in Singapore and best to contact the resort itself. prepared to vouch for you, feed you and
are likewise a great option as the sociable 4pm in Tokyo. Quite a few resort activities are poten- accommodate you. This support must be
nature makes them good for making friends. The majority of resorts operate one hour tially suitable for disabled guests, apart given in writing, preferably with an OK
Single women will find the Maldives a won- ahead of Male’ time to give their guests the from the very popular sitting-on-a-beach- from the kateeb and submitted with your
derful place to travel, completely free of the illusion of extra daylight in the evening doing-nothing. Fishing trips and excur- application. It’s best to have the sponsor
chauvinism that can so often be a deterrent. and a longer sleep in the morning. This sions to inhabited islands should be easy, submit the application on your behalf.
For more on independent travel, see p52. can make it tricky when arranging pick- but uninhabited islands may be more dif- The most straightforward way to visit the
up times and transfers, so always check ficult to disembark on. Catamaran sailing outer atolls is with a registered safari boat,
TELEPHONE whether you’re being quoted a time in and canoeing are possibilities, especially but a reputable tour company, travel agent
There are two telephone providers operat- Male’ Time or Resort Time. if you’ve had experience in these activi- or guesthouse proprietor may be able to
ing in the Maldives: the relatively old-timer ties. Anyone who can swim will be able to help you make the necessary contacts to
Dhiraagu, a joint venture of the government TOILETS enjoy snorkelling. The International Associa- get a sponsor. Many Male’ residents have
and the British Cable & Wireless company; Male’s public toilets charge Rf2. On local tion for Handicapped Divers (www.iahd.org) pro- friends or family in various outer atolls,
and the newer Wataniya, a Kuwaiti pro- islands, you may have to ask where the fa- vides advice and assistance for anyone with but as they will be responsible for you when
vider that introduced some much-needed hana is. In general you’re better off using a physical disability who wishes to scuba you visit the island, a great deal of trust
competition to the market in 2005. toilets in cafés and restaurants in Male’ – dive. Resort dive schools should be able to is involved. Getting a letter of support–
Both providers operate somewhat patchy they’re usually cleaner and free. arrange a special course or programme for cum-invitation back from the island can
coverage, although given the unique geogra- any group of four or more people with a take a couple of weeks if it’s isolated from
phy of the country this is hardly surprising. TOURIST INFORMATION similar disability. the capital.
Only in and around Male’ are you 100% The official tourist office is the Maldives Tour- No dogs are permitted in the Maldives, The stated purpose of the visit can be
guaranteed a signal, where it’s hit and miss ism Promotion Board (%3323228; www.visitmaldives so it’s not a destination for anyone depend- something like visiting friends, sightseeing,
elsewhere. You can buy a local SIM card .com; Boduthakurufaanu Magu, Male’). Its office on ent on a guide dog. photography or private research. The per-
for around US$15 and use it in your own the 4th floor of the Bank of Ceylon building mit will specify which atolls or islands you
phone if it’s been unlocked at home (check has maps and other printed material, and TRAVEL PERMITS can visit. Permits are issued only between
with your provider) – this becomes worth can answer specific inquiries. Foreigners must have an Inter-Atoll Travel 8.30am and 11am on all days except gov-
the price almost immediately if you’re using The Maldives has only one official tour- Permit to stay on any inhabited island other ernment holidays.
your phone much at all. ist office abroad: the Maldives Tourism Promo- than Male’ or a resort island, and permits As soon as you land on an island you
Every inhabited island now has a telephone tion Board (%69-2740-4420; [email protected]; are also required to visit all uninhabited must go to the island office to present the
connection, and very modern card-operated Bethmannstrasse 58, 60311 Frankfurt am Main, Germany). islands outside the tourism zone. You don’t permit. A foreigner travelling in the outer
telephone boxes can be seen somewhat in- Most tourism promotion is done by private need a permit for a day trip organised by atolls without a permit, or breaching its
congruously on the most traditional island travel agents, tour operators and resorts. a resort. conditions, can be fined Rf100.
DIREC TORY 182 D I R E C T O R Y • • V i s a s www.lonelyplanet.com

VISAS in a couple of days to pick up the passport

The Maldives welcomes visitors from all with its extended visa (get a receipt for your
countries, issuing a 30-day stamp on ar- passport).
rival. Citizens of India, Pakistan, Bangla- Extensions are for a maximum of 30
desh or Nepal are given a 90-day stamp. If days, but they give you only until the
you want to stay longer you’ll either need to date on your ticket – the cost is the same,
apply for a visa or leave the country when for one day or 30. Overstaying your visa
your 30 days is up, then return. (or extension), even by an hour, can be
While officially you’re supposed to show a major hassle as they may not let you
US$30 for every day’s stay, this is not usu- board your flight, and you will have to go
ally enforced, and showing a credit card back to Male’, book another flight, get a
will usually placate concerns. However, visa extension and pay a fine before you
you should know the name of your hotel can leave.
and be able to show a return air ticket out
of the country, if asked by immigration WOMEN TRAVELLERS
officials. Culturally, resorts are European enclaves
and visiting women will not have to make
Visa Extensions too many adjustments. Topless bathing
To apply for an extension, go to the Immi- and nudity are strictly forbidden, but brief
gration Office (Map p94; %3323913; h8am-1pm bikinis are perfectly acceptable on resort
Sun-Thu) in the Huravee Building next to the beaches.
police station in Male’. You must first buy Reasonably modest dress is appropriate in
an Extension of Tourist Visa form (Rf10) Male’ – shorts should cover the thighs and
from the ground-floor desk. You’ll need a shirts should not be very low cut. Women
local to sponsor you. The main requirement may be stared at on the street in Male’, es-
is evidence that you have accommodation, pecially if their dress or demeanour is seen
so it’s best to have your resort, travel agent as provocative, but nothing more serious
or guesthouse manager act as a sponsor and is likely to happen. Local women don’t go
apply on your behalf. Have your sponsor into teashops in Male’, but a foreign woman
sign the form, and bring it back to the of- with a male companion would not cause
fice between 7.30am and 9.30am, along with any excitement.
your passport, a passport photo, the Rf750 In more out-of-the-way parts of the coun-
fee and your air ticket out of the country. try, quite conservative dress is in order. It is
You have to have a confirmed booking for very unlikely that a foreign woman would
the new departure date before you can get be harassed or feel threatened on a local
the extension – fortunately, the airlines don’t island, as Maldivian men are conservative
ask to see a visa extension before they’ll and extremely respectful. They are very
change the date of your flight. Proof of suf- closed, small communities and the fact that
ficient funds (US$30 per day) or a credit a foreign woman would be associated with
card may also be required. You’ll be asked to a local sponsor should give a high level of
leave the documents at the office and return security.
 183

Transport
of research. The current domestic terminal
CONTENTS on the southern island of Gan is also being
upgraded to a new international airport,
Getting There & Away 183
and should be taking international charter
Entering the Country 183
flights some time in the near future.
Air 183
There is no national carrier; the carriers
Sea 184
serving Male’ can roughly be divided into
Getting Around 185

TRANSPORT
scheduled and charter airlines. Some air-
Air 185
lines only fly in certain seasons and the list
Boat 186
of charter airlines changes frequently.
Car & Motorcycle 186
SCHEDULED AIRLINES
Austrian (OS; %3334004; www.aua.com)
GETTING THERE & Emirates (EK; %3315465; www.emirates.com)
Air India (Map p94; IC; %3310111; www.airindia.com)
AWAY Malaysian Airlines (MH; %3332555; www
.malaysiaairlines.com)
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked Qatar Airways (Map p94; QR; %3334777; www
online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel .qatarairways.com)
_services. Singapore Airlines (Map p94; SQ; %3310031; www
.singaporeairlines.com)
ENTERING THE COUNTRY Sri Lankan Airlines (Map p94; UL; %3310031; www
Entering the Maldives is simple and hassle- .srilankan.aero)
free. However, you must know the name Transaero (UN; www.transaero.ru; Male’ airport)
of your resort or Male’ hotel, and if you
are travelling independently and don’t have CHARTERED AIRLINES
one arranged, then be prepared to make Note that most charter airlines don’t have
one up – the immigration officials will view offices in Male’ and should be contacted via
anyone just arriving in the country with the home country.
great suspicion. Britannia Airways (BY; www.thomsonfly.com)
Blue Panorama Airlines (BV; www.blue-panorama
Passport .com)
There are no restrictions on foreign nation- Condor (DE; www5.condor.com)
als entering the country. Israelis and people Corsair (SS; %3310111; www.corsair.fr)
who have Israeli stamps in their passports Edelweiss (EDW; www.edelweissair.ch)
are perfectly welcome, which is rare in the Eurofly (GJ; www.eurofly.it)
Muslim world. Visas are not needed for vis-
its of 30 days or less (see opposite). Theoret-
ically travellers must have US$30 per day THINGS CHANGE…
for the duration of their stay. The information in this chapter is particu-
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly
AIR with the airline or a travel agent to make
Airports & Airlines sure you understand how a fare (and ticket
At the time of writing there was only one you may buy) works and be aware of the
international airport in the Maldives – Male’ security requirements for international
International Airport (MLE; %3322075; www.airports travel. Shop carefully. The details given in
.com.mv), on the island of Hulhule’, 2km across this chapter should be regarded as point-
the water from the capital. It’s a decent air- ers and are not a substitute for your own
port that was being upgraded to include careful, up-to-date research.
new departure and arrival areas at the time
 184 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • S e a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 185

First Choice (FCA; www.firstchoice.co.uk) flights, Emirates followed by Sri Lankan and famous. However, with the Maldives lagoon beside Hulhumale’, the reclaimed
LTU (LT; %3334004; www.ltu.com) and Qatar have the best connections from being somewhat out of the way, this is not a land north of the airport. This is a good
Martinair (MP; %3323069; www.martinair.com) Rome and Milan. CTS Viaggi (%840-501150; standard port of call. The Maldives has not anchorage. The bigger stores, like STO
Monarch (MON; www.flymonarch.com) www.cts.it) is a recommended travel agency. been a popular stop for cruising yachties, People’s Choice and Fantasy, have quite
Neos Spa (NO; www.neosair.it) but more are coming through and official a good range of provisions at reasonable
Other Europe policy is becoming more welcoming. The prices. The port agents can advise on other
Tickets There’s a weekly flight on Austrian Airlines negatives include: the maze of reefs that necessities such as radio repairs, water and
If you’re on a package you’ll usually have no from Vienna, a twice-weekly flight from can make it a hazardous area; the high fees fuelling. Diesel fuel is about Rf5 per litre.
choice about the airline you fly, as it will be Moscow on Transaero, flights from Am- for cruising permits; the officialdom; the The cost of a cruising permit increases
part of the package. Fully independent trav- sterdam on Martinair and from Switzerland restrictions on where yachts can go; and the greatly with the length of stay – the first two
ellers (FITs) should shop around for both on Edelweiss. absence of lively little ports with cheap cafés weeks are free, the first month is US$200,
scheduled and charter deals. More and more and waterfront bars. and the second month US$300. Customs,
Japan
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
chartered airlines are selling flight-only seats A new 100-berth marina has been built port and inspection charges increase with
and these can be good deals. The other ad- Japanese travellers usually fly via Sri Lanka or at Island Hideaway in the far north of the the size of the boat. If you go cruising in the
vantage of charter flights is that you can fly Singapore, though some travel on Thai Air- country (see p148), and this is the only tourism zone, you’ll be able to stop at many
direct from Western Europe to Male’, with- ways via Bangkok and Colombo, for a lower place currently set up for servicing yachts in of the resorts to eat, drink, swim, dive and
out the usual change in the Middle East or price. Chartered flights are not in operation. a professional way. Addu, in the far south, spend your money, but you should always
Sri Lanka common for scheduled airlines. has a sheltered anchorage, a tourist resort call the resort first. Usually you have to be
UK & Ireland and refuelling and resupply facilities. off the island by sunset.
Australia British travellers have a choice of several char- The three points where a yacht can get Before you leave Maldivian waters, don’t
Australians usually reach the Maldives via ter flights from London and Manchester that an initial ‘clear in’ are Uligamu (Haa Alif) forget to ‘clear out’ at Uligamu, Hithadhoo
Singapore or Kuala Lumpur on Singapore go direct to Male’ and scheduled flights from in the north, Hithadhoo/Gan (Addu Atoll) or Male’.
Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas or a London via Doha (Qatar Airways), Dubai in the south, and Male’. Call in on VHF
combination. The few Australian visitors to (Emirates) and Colombo (Sri Lankan). channel 16 to the National Security Service
the Maldives makes this an expensive flight.
There are no chartered flights currently op-
Bridge the World (%0870-4447447; www.bridge
theworld.com)
(NSS) Coastguard and follow the instruc-
tions. If you’re just passing through and
GETTING AROUND
erating between Australia and Male’. Ebookers (%0800-0823000; www.ebookers.com) want to stop only briefly, a 72-hour permit AIR
Flight Centre (%131-600; www.flightcentre.com.au) Opodo (%0871-2770091; www.opodo.co.uk) is usually easy to arrange. If you want to stay Domestic Air Services
STA Travel (%1300-733035; www.statravel.com.au) STA Travel (%0870-1600599; www.statravel.co.uk) longer in Maldivian waters, or stop for pro- Air transport is essential in the Maldives,
Trailfinders (%020-79383939; www.trailfinders.co.uk) visions, you’ll have to do immigration, cus- given the large geographical spread of the
France toms, port authority and quarantine checks, islands and the total lack of roads. The
Charter flights operate between Charles de USA & Canada and get a cruising permit. This can be done domestic carrier is Island Aviation (Map p94;
Gaulle and Male’ on Star Airlines and from The sheer distance involved in travelling at any of the three clear-in facilities. %3335544; Boduthakurufaanu Magu; www.island.com.
Paris Orly on Corsair International during between North America and the Maldives If you want to stop at Male’, ensure mv), which offers several daily flights to the
high season. The rest of the year Emirates, makes the US and Canadian tourism mar- you arrive well before dark, go to the east four regional airports:
Qatar and Sri Lankan offer the best connec- ket minuscule. People travelling from North side of Viligili Island, between Viligili and Kaadedhdhoo (Gaaf Dhaal, one daily, $231 return, one
tions and prices. America will usually fly via London and Male’, and call the coastguard on channel hour)
OTU Voyages (%0 820 817 817; www.otu.fr) then continue by Qatar Airways, Emirates 16. Officially, all boats require a pilot, but Gan (Addu, two or three flights daily, $271 return, one
Nouvelles Frontières (%0 825 000 825; www or Sri Lankan. From the West coast travel they don’t usually insist for boats under hour 10 minutes)
.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) via Singapore makes most sense. 30m. Carefully follow the coastguard’s in- Hanimaadhoo (Haa Dhaal, three flights daily, $231
Voyageurs du Monde (%01 42 86 16 40; www.vdm.com) structions on where to anchor, or you may return, one hour)
SEA find yourself in water that’s very deep, or Kadhdhoo (Laamu, two daily, $191 return, one hour)
Germany Sri Lanka too shallow. Then contact one of the port
Germany has a huge number of charter air- Despite the obviousness of this route, it is agents, such as Island Sailors (%3332536; www However, the only airport within the tour-
lines bringing huge numbers of visitors to currently impossible to travel between Sri .islandsailors.com) or Century Star (%3325353). A ism zone is Gan, meaning that this is the
resorts year-round. Direct flights from Dus- Lanka and the Maldives by boat. There are full list of agents can be found at www only place you can fly to unless you have
seldorf, Frankfurt and Munich as well as no scheduled ferries operating, nor do cargo .customs.gov.mv/agents.htm. special permission to visit the atolls or are
from other cities are available on a number ships generally take paying passengers. You Port agents can arrange for port author- staying in a resort located outside of the
of chartered airlines. might be lucky if you ask around in Col- ity, immigration, customs and quarantine current tourism zone.
ombo, but we don’t recommend this. checks, and advise on repairs, refuelling Flights are on 37-seater Dash 8 jets and
Italy etc. They’ll charge about US$175 for a 16-seater Dornier 228 aircraft and fill up
There is an excellent charter choice avail- Yacht two-week stay, including all government fast, so book ahead (booking from home
able from Italy to Male’ – most are nonstop Yachts and super yachts cruise Maldivian charges – it would be a nightmare to do online is possible) to ensure you can get the
flights, although some pick up in two or waters throughout the year – this is after it all without an agent’s help. After the flight you want. Fares are in US dollars for
more Italian cities en route. For scheduled all one of many playgrounds for the rich initial checks you’ll be able to cross to the foreigners.
 186 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t www.lonelyplanet.com

Seaplane Speedboat
Most travellers in the Maldives are far Resorts more than 10km or 15km away
more likely to use the services of the two from the airport usually offer transfer by
charter seaplane companies, Trans Maldiv- speedboat, which costs from US$45 to
ian (%3312444; www.tma.com.mv) and Maldivian US$105 depending on the distance. This
Air Taxi (%3315201; www.mataxi.com.mv), both of is generally included in the package price,
which fly tourists from the seaplane port unless there is the option of transfer by
next to Male’ International Airport to re- dhoni, in which case a speedboat is priced
sorts throughout the country. Both com- as an extra.
panies fly 18-seater DeHavilland Twin The boats range from a small runabout
Otter seaplanes under contract to resorts with outboard motor to a massive, multi-
throughout the Maldives. deck launch with an aircraft-type cabin.
TRANSPORT

All seaplane transfers are made during Most big travel agencies can organise the
daylight hours, and offer an amazing perspec- charter of launches from Male’, which, if you
tive on the atolls, islands, reefs and lagoons. can afford it, is absolutely the best way to
The cost is between US$140 and US$350 get around. Inner Maldives (Map p94; %3315499;
return, depending on the distance and the www.innermaldives.com.mv) has very good value
deal between the resorts, and it’s generally launches for charter at around $350 per
included in the package price. If there is an day, excluding the (substantial) fuel prices.
option of a boat transfer, or you are an FIT, For the price you’ll get the services of the
the seaplane will be charged as an extra. captain and a couple of crew members for
Charter flights for sightseeing, photogra- a 10-hour day. If chartering a boat for the
phy and emergency evacuation can be ar- day, standard practice is for the client to
ranged. Call both companies for rates and pay for the tank to be refuelled on arrival
availability. Note that cargo capacity on the back at Male’.
seaplanes is limited. All passengers and bag-
gage are weighed before loading, and some Vedi
heavy items may have to wait for a later A vedi is a large dhoni with a big, square-
flight or be transferred by boat. shaped wooden superstructure, and is used
for trading between Male’ and the outer
BOAT atolls. Sail-powered vedis once made trad-
Dhoni Charters ing trips to Sri Lanka, India, Burma and
In Male’, go along the waterfront to the Sumatra, but these days the vedis are diesel
eastern end of Boduthakurufaanu Magu powered and used only for interatoll
by the airport ferry jetty, and you’ll find transport.
many dhonis waiting in the harbour. Most No vedi will take you as a passenger to an
of these are available for charter to nearby atoll unless you have a permit to go there.
islands. The price depends on where you To get a permit, you must be sponsored by
want to go, for how long, and on your nego- someone from that atoll, and it’s best to
tiating skills – somewhere between Rf1000 have that person arrange transport. Vedis
and Rf1500 for a day is a typical rate, but if use Inner Harbour in Male’, west of the
you want to start at 6am and go nonstop for fishing harbour.
12 hours, it could be quite a bit more. You Travel on a vedi is slow and offers basic
can also charter a dhoni at most resorts, but food and no creature comforts. Your bunk
it will cost more (maybe US$200 or US$250 is a mat on a shelf, the toilet is the sea and
per day) and only if they’re not all being fellow passengers may include chickens. A
used for excursions or diving trips. trip down to Addu Atoll, the most south-
erly and distant atoll, will take at least two
Ferries days and cost around Rf300.
There are a few ferry services foreigners can
take without a problem, all departing from CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Male’ and going to nearby islands. See p102 The only places where visitors will need to
for details. Plans for a new interisland ferry travel by road are Male’ and the southern-
service, due to begin operation in 2004, most atoll, Addu. Taxis are available in both
have been shelved for the time being. places and driving is on the left.
 187

Health
are limited. The country’s main hospital
CONTENTS is the Indira Gandhi Memorial Hospital (Map
pp90-1; % 3316647; Boduthakurufaanu Magu) in
Before You Go 187
Male’. Male’ also has the ADK Private Hospital
Insurance 187
(Map p94; %3313553; Sosun Magu), which offers
Recommended Vaccinations 187
high-quality care at high prices. The capital
In The Maldives 187
island of each atoll has a government hos-
Availability & Cost of Health Care 187
pital or at least a health centre – these are
Infectious Diseases 187
being improved, but for any serious prob-
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 187
lem you’ll have to go to Male’. Patients re-
Environmental Hazards 188
quiring specialist operations may have to
be evacuated to Colombo or Singapore, or
The Maldives a power station and is not a taken home.
dangerous destination, with few poisonous Emergency evacuations from resorts are
animals, no snakes and – by Asian stand- coordinated by the Coast Guard and the
ards – good health care and hygiene aware- two seaplane companies. Seaplanes can
ness. Staying healthy here is mainly about only do evacuations during daylight hours
being sensible and careful. from a limited number of landing/takeoff
sites.

BEFORE YOU GO

H E A LT H
INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Dengue Fever
INSURANCE Mosquitoes aren’t troublesome in Maldiv-
Make sure that you have adequate health ian resorts because there are few areas of
insurance and that it covers you for expen- open fresh water where they can breed. If
sive evacuations by seaplane or speedboat, mosquitoes do annoy you, use repellent or
and for any diving risks. See p70 for details burn mosquito coils, available from resort
on diving insurance. shops.
Dengue fever, a viral disease transmitted
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS by mosquitoes, occurs in Maldivian villages
The only vaccination officially required but is not a significant risk on resort islands
by the Maldives is one for yellow fever, if or in the capital.
you’re coming from an area where yellow
fever is endemic. Malaria prophylaxis is not TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
necessary. A change of water, food or climate can all
cause a mild bout of diarrhoea, but a few
rushed toilet trips with no other symptoms is
IN THE MALDIVES
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH DIVERS’ MEDICAL CHECK
CARE If you plan to do a diving course in the
Self-diagnosis and treatment can be risky, Maldives, you should get a diving medical
so seek qualified help if you need it. Nearly checkup before you leave. There’s a special
all resorts have a resident doctor, but other- form for this – a local diving club or dive
wise it may be necessary to go into Male’, shop will have the form and a list of doc-
to the nearest atoll capital, or have a doctor tors who can do a diving medical check. In
come to you. the Maldives, you can have it done at the
The Maldivian health service relies heav- ADK Hospital (p90) and the Indira Ghandi
ily on doctors, nurses and dentists from Memorial Hospital (p91) in Male’.
overseas, and facilities outside the capital
 188 I N T H E MA L D I V E S • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s www.lonelyplanet.com

not indicative of a serious problem. Dehydra- becomes flushed and red. Severe, throbbing
tion is the main danger with any diarrhoea. headaches and lack of coordination will also
Fluid replacement remains the mainstay in occur, and the sufferer may be confused or
managing this condition. aggressive. Hospitalisation is essential, but
in the interim get the victim out of the sun,
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS remove their clothing, cover them with a
Most of the potential danger (you have to wet sheet or towel and then fan continu-
be extremely unlucky or foolhardy to actu- ously. Give fluids if they are conscious.
ally get hurt) lies under the sea.
Sea Urchins
Anemones Don’t step on sea urchins as the spines are
These colourful creatures are also poison- long and sharp, break off easily and once
ous and putting your hand into one can embedded in your flesh are very difficult
give you a painful sting. If stung, consult to remove.
a doctor as quickly as possible; the usual
procedure is to soak the sting in vinegar. Sharks
There is a negligible danger from sharks
Coral Cuts & Stings if they are not provoked. Many types of
Coral is sharp stuff and brushing up against shark inhabit the Maldives, but they all
it is likely to cause a cut or abrasion. Most have plentiful supplies of their natural
corals contain poisons and you’re likely to food, which they find far tastier and more
get some in any wound, along with tiny conveniently bite-sized than humans.
grains of broken coral. The result is that
a small cut can take a long time to heal. Stonefish
Wash any coral cuts very thoroughly with These fish lie on reefs and the sea bed, and
H E A LT H

fresh water and then treat them liberally are well camouflaged. When stepped on,
with antiseptic. Brushing against fire coral their sharp dorsal spines pop up and inject
or the feathery hydroid can give you a pain- a venom that causes intense pain and some-
ful sting and a persistent itchy rash. times death. Stonefish are usually found in
shallow, muddy water, but also on rock and
Heat Exhaustion coral sea beds. They are another good rea-
Dehydration and salt deficiency can cause son not to walk on coral reefs.
heat exhaustion. Take the time to acclima- Bathing the wound in very hot water re-
tise to high temperatures, drink sufficient duces the pain and effects of the venom.
liquids and do not do anything too physi- An antivenene is available and medical at-
cally demanding. tention should be sought as the after-effects
Salt deficiency is characterised by fatigue, can be very long lasting.
lethargy, headaches, giddiness and muscle
cramps; salt tablets may help, but adding Stingrays
extra salt to your food is better. These rays lie on sandy sea beds, and if
you step on one, its barbed tail can whip
Heatstroke up into your leg and cause a nasty, poi-
This serious condition can occur if the body’s soned wound. Sand can drift over sting-
heat-regulating mechanism breaks down rays so they can become all but invisible
and the body temperature rises to dangerous while basking on the bottom. Fortunately,
levels. Long, continuous periods of exposure stingrays will usually glide away as you ap-
to high temperatures and insufficient fluids proach. If you’re wading in the sandy shal-
can leave you vulnerable to heatstroke. lows, try to shuffle along and make some
The symptoms are feeling unwell, not noise. If stung, bathing the affected area
sweating very much (or at all) and a high in hot water is the best treatment; medical
body temperature (39°C to 41°C or 102°F to attention should be sought to ensure the
106°F). Where sweating has ceased, the skin wound is properly cleaned.
 189

Language
THAANA – THE SCRIPT OF DIVEHI
CONTENTS Thaana is the name of the modern script
used to write Dhivehi. It looks like a cross
Greetings & Basics 189 between shorthand and Arabic, which is no
People 190 coincidence, as it came to the Maldives dur-
ing the Islamic revival of the late sixteenth
Places 190
century, and shares Arabic’s right-to-left ap-
Time & Days 190
pearance for words (and left-to-right for
Numbers 190
numbers). The list below shows the letters
of the Thaana alphabet with their nearest
The language of the Maldives is Divehi, also English equivalent, and a few words to
show the way the letters combine.
commonly written as ‘Dhivehi’. It is related
to an ancient form of Sinhala, a Sri Lankan h (h) S (sh) n (n) r (r) b (b) l (lh) k (k)
language, but also contains some Arabic, a (a) v (v) m (m) f (f ) t (t) J (dh) t (th)
Hindi and English words. On top of all this, l (l) g (g) N (gn) s (s) D(d) z (z) T (t)
there are several different dialects through- y (y) p (p) j (j) C (ch)
out the country. palm tree ruh caur
English is widely spoken in Male’, in the cat bulhaa Wlub
resorts, and by educated people throughout
the country. English is also spoken on egg bis csib
Addu, the southernmost atoll, where the
British employed many of the islanders on
the air base for 20 years. On other islands, with the names used for the Maldives’ 25
especially outside the tourism zone, you’d natural atolls.
be very lucky to find an adult who speaks There is no officially correct, or even
anything other than Divehi. consistent, spelling of Divehi words in of-
Divehi has its own script, Thaana, which ficial English language publications.
Maldivians are pleased to help you learn
was introduced by the great Maldivian hero
a few phrases of Divehi, and, even if you
Thakurufaanu after he tossed out the Por-
only learn a few words, the locals you meet
tuguese in the 16th century. Thaana looks will be very appreciative of your interest.
like shorthand, has 24 letters in its alphabet The best phrasebook available is Practical

LANGUAGE
and is read from right to left (their front Divehi by M Zuhair (Novelty Press, Male’,
page is our back page). See the box on this 1991). It’s available from the Novelty Book-
page for some examples of this unique writ- shop in Male’ and in a number of the resort
ing system. shops.
The Romanised transliteration of the lan-
guage is a potpourri of phonetic approxima- GREETINGS & BASICS
tions, and words can be spelt in a variety of Hello. a-salam alekum
ways. This is most obvious in Maldivian Farewell. vale kumu salam
place names. For example: Majeedi Magu is Peace. salam
also spelt Majidi, Majeedhee and Majeedee; Hi. kihine
Hithadhoo also becomes Hithadhu and Hi- See you later. fahung badaluvang
tadhu; and Fuamulak can be Fua Mulaku, How are you? haalu kihine?
Foahmmulah or, thanks to one 19th-cen- Very well. (reply) vara gada
tury mariner, Phoowa Moloku. Fine/Good/Great. barabah
To add to the confusion, several islands OK. enge
have the same name (there are six called Thank you. shukuria
Viligili), and there are names for the 20 Yes. aa
administrative atolls that do not coincide No. noo
 190 L A N G UA G E • • Pe o p l e www.lonelyplanet.com

How much is this? mi kihavaraka? sandbank finolhu

What is that? mi korche? reef/lagoon faru
What did you say? kike tha buni? street magu
I’m leaving. aharen dani lane or small street golhi/higun
Where are you going? kong taka dani? mosque miski
How much is the fare? fi kihavare? house ge
I/me aharen/ma
you kale TIME & DAYS
she/he mina/ena today miadu
name nang, nama tomorrow madamma
expensive agu bodu yesterday iye
very expensive vara agu bodu tonight mire
cheap agu heyo day duvas
enough heo night reggadu
now mihaaru
little (for people, places) kuda Monday horma
mosquito madiri Tuesday angaara
mosquito net madiri ge Wednesday buda
bathroom gifili Thursday brassfati
toilet fahana Friday hukuru
inside etere Saturday honihira
outside berufarai Sunday aadita
water (rain, well) vaare feng or valu feng
swim fatani NUMBERS
eat kani 1 eke
walk hingani 2 de
sleep nidani 3 tine
sail duvani 4 hatare
go dani 5 fahe
stay hunani 6 haie
dance nashani 7 hate
wash donani 8 ashe
9 nue
PEOPLE 10 diha
friend ratehi 11 egaara
mother mama 12 baara
LANGUAGE

father bapa 13 tera

atoll chief atolu verin 14 saada
island chief kateeb 15 fanara
VIP, upper-class befalu 16 sorla
person 17 satara
white person don miha 18 ashara
(tourist or expat) 19 onavihi
religious leader gazi 20 vihi
prayer caller mudeem 30 tiris
fisherman mas veri 40 saalis
toddy man ra veri 50 fansaas
evil spirit jinni 60 fasdolaas
70 hai-diha
PLACES 80 a-diha
atoll atolu 90 nua-diha
island fushi/rah 100 sateka
 191

Glossary
animator – scary extroverted person employed in some divemaster – male or female diver qualified to
resorts to promote group activities and ‘good times’. Be supervise and lead dives, but not necessarily a qualified
afraid. instructor
atoll – ring of coral reefs or coral islands, or both,
surrounding a lagoon; the English word ‘atoll’ is derived fahana – toilet
from the Divehi atolu fandhita – magic, wizardry
atolu verin – atoll chief faru – also called faro; ring-shaped reef within an atoll,
often with an island in the middle
bai bala – traditional game where one team tries to tag feylis – traditional sarong, usually dark with light-
another inside a circle coloured horizontal bands near the hem
bashi – traditional girls’ team game played with a tennis finolhu – sparsely vegetated sand bank
ball, racket and net FIT – fully independent traveller
BCD – buoyancy control device; a vest that holds air tanks fushi – island
on the back and can be inflated or deflated to control a
diver’s buoyancy and act as a life preserver; also called a gazi – religious head of atoll
buoyancy control vest (BCV) gifili – courtyard with a well; used as an open-air
befalu – upper class of privileged families bathroom; a modern version is a popular feature of many
bodu – big or great resort rooms
bodu beru – literally ‘big drum’; made from a hollow giri – coral formation that rises steeply from the atoll
coconut log and covered with stingray skin; bodu beru is also floor and almost reaches the surface; see also thila
Maldivian drum music, often used to accompany dancers goalhi – short, narrow lane
bodu raalhu – literally ‘big wave’; when the sea sweeps
over the islands, causing damage and sometimes loss of life hajj – Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca
bonthi – stick used for martial arts haveeru – evening
hawitta – ancient mound found in the southern atolls;
cadjan – mat made of coconut palm leaves archaeologists believe these mounds were the foundations
carrom – popular board game, like a miniature snooker; of Buddhist temples
players use their fingers to flick flat round counters from higun – wide lane
the edges of a square wooden board, trying to knock other house reef – coral reef adjacent to a resort island, used
players’ counters into the four corner holes by guests for snorkelling and diving; guests from other
chew – wad of areca nut wrapped in an areca leaf, often resorts can’t dive on a house reef without permission
with lime, cloves and other spices; commonly chewed hulhangu – the southwest monsoon period, from May to
after a meal November, which are the wetter months with more storms
CMAS – Confédération Mondiale des Activités and strong winds
Subaquatiques; French organisation that sets diving
standards, training requirements and accredits instructors inner-reef slope – where a reef slopes down inside an
atoll; see also outer-reef slope
Dhiraagu – the Maldives telecommunications provider, iruvai – northeast monsoon period, from December to
it is jointly owned by the government and the British March, which are the drier months
company Cable & Wireless
dhiguhedhun – traditional women’s dress, full length jinni – witch or wizard, sometimes coming from the sea
with long sleeves and a wide collar, usually in unpatterned joli – also called jorli; net seat suspended from a
fabric but sometimes brightly coloured rectangular frame; typically there are four or five seats
dhoni – Maldivian boat, probably derived from an together outside a house

GLOSSARY
Arabian dhow. Formerly sail powered, many dhonis are
now equipped with a diesel engine kandiki – sarong worn by women under the libaas
Divehi – language and people of the Maldives, also spelt kandu – sea channel; connecting the waters of an atoll to
‘Dhivehi’ the open sea; feeding grounds for pelagics, such as sharks,
Divehi Raajje – ‘Island Kingdom’; what Maldivians call stingrays, manta rays and turtles; good dive sites, but
the Maldives subject to strong currents
 © Lonely Planet Publications
192 G L O S S A R Y

kateeb – chief of an island Redin – legendary race of people believed by

kunaa – traditional woven mat modern Maldivians to have been the first settlers in
the archipelago and the builders of the pre-Islamic
laajehun – lacquer work traditionally used as containers, hawittas
bowls and trays to present gifts to the sultan, now popular reef – ridge or plateau close to the sea surface; Maldivian
as small souvenirs atolls and islands are surrounded by coral reefs
libaas – traditional dress with wide collar and cuffs, and reef flat –shallow area of reef top that stretches out from
embroidered with gold thread a lagoon to where the reef slopes down into the deeper
surrounding water
madrasa – government primary school rhan – bride price
magu – wide street
mas – fish SAARC – South Asia Association for Regional Cooperation;
miskiiy – mosque a regional trade and development organisation which
MTPB – Maldives Tourism Promotion Board; the comprises Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal,
government tourism promotion organisation Pakistan and Sri Lanka
mudhim – muezzin; the person who calls Muslims to SSI – Scuba Schools International; diver accreditation
prayer organisation
mundu – man’s sarong, usually made with a chequered STO – State Trading Organisation
cotton fabric with a darker panel at the back of the
garment Thaana – Divehi script; the written language unique to
munnaaru – minaret, a mosque’s tower the Maldives
thila – coral formation that rises steeply from the atoll
nakaiy – period of about two weeks associated with a floor to within 5m to 15m of the surface; see also giri
specific weather pattern; the year is divided into 27 nakaiy thin mugoali – ‘three circles’, a 400-year- old game
namahd – call to prayer for Muslims similar to baseball
NSS – National Security Service; the Maldivian army, navy, thileyrukan – traditional jewellery-making
coastguard and police force toddy tapper – person who extracts the sap of a palm
tree to make toddy
outer-reef slope – outer edge of an atoll facing open tundu kunaa – finely woven reed mats, particularly
sea, where reefs slope down towards the ocean floor; see those from Gaaf Dhaal
also inner-reef slope
undholi – wooden seat, typically suspended under a
PADI – Professional Association of Diving Instructors; shady tree so the swinging motion provides a cooling
commercial organisation that sets diving standards and breeze
training requirements and accredits instructors
pelagic – open-sea species such as tuna, barracuda and vedi – large dhoni used for trading between Male’ and
whales the outer atolls
VSO – Voluntary Service Overseas; British overseas aid
Quran – also spelt Koran; Islam’s holy book organisation

raa veri – toddy seller wadhemun – tug-of-war

Ramazan– Maldivian spelling of Ramadan, the Muslim Wataniya – Kuwaiti mobile phone provider operating
month of fasting one of the Maldives’ two networks
GLOSSARY

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
197

Index
See also separate index for Resorts (p200).

A boats 29, 58-9, see also dhonis, vedis D

Aarah 105 safari boats 174, 6 dance 34
accommodation 47, 52, 173-4, see yachts 148 dangers 175
also individual locations, Resorts bodu beru 106 day trips 50, 166
subindex, hotels, resorts Boli Mulah 161 decompression sickness 69-70
costs 52 books 13-14, see also literature Dhaalu 163-4
activities 50-3, 61, see also individual British occupation Dhidhdhoo 147
activities explorers 17, 20, 169 Dhiffushi 107
Addu Atoll 167-72, 168 military 20-1, 159, 168, Dhivehi 147

INDEX
air travel 183-4 169 dhonis 29, 145-6, 7, 123
air fares 184 Buddhist ruins 134, 165, 166 chartered 186
airlines 183-4 business hours 174 Dhoonidhoo 105
to/from the Maldives 184 holidays 176-7 disabilities, travellers with 181
within the Maldives 185-6 butlers 48, 60, 179 dive schools 67
airports 183 butterflyfish 77, 75 Blue In 115
Hulhule’ 104 Crab 141
Kadhoo 165 C Delphis 115
al Barakat, Abu 17, 94 car travel 186 Diverland 128-9, 171
alcohol 27, 53, 59, 85, 86, 92 caves 61, 65 Euro-Divers 132, 139, 140
Alifushi 150 cell phones 180 Meridis Diving School 148
Amnesty International 22 children, travel with 174-5 Ocean-Pro 110, 111, 137,
anemonefish 77, 74 activities 98 142-3, 155
anemones 188 at resorts 54-5, 60 ProDivers 156, 157
angelfish 72, 75 food 86 Rasdhoo Atoll Divers 136
animals 38-40, see also individual climate 12-13, 175 Sea-Explorer 103, 131, 153
species coffee 86 Soleni Dive School 154
endangered species 39-40 conservation, see environmental Sun Dive Centre 158
animators 57 issues Sun International Diving
architecture 34-5 consulates 176 School 164
Ari Atoll 134, 137-46, 135 coral 40, 41-2, 72, 188, 5, TGI 139
accommodation 138-46 6, 76 Werner Lau 114, 143
activities 137-8 protection 71 dive sites 64-6
arts 34-6, see also individual arts coral stone 34-5 Addu Atoll 168-9
ATMs 178 Corbin, George 47 Ari Atoll 137-8
atolls 39, 41, 121 see also individual costs 13, 52, 68 Baa 152-3
atolls tipping 178-9 Dhaalu 164
courses, diving 66-7, 175 Faafu 162-3
B cowry shells 17 giris 65
Baa 36, 152-5, 123 craftwork 35-6 kandus 65
bathrooms 180 credit cards 178 Lhaviyani 155-6
Battuta, Ibn 17 cricket 32 Male’ 103
beaches 60, 96-8 cruise operators 59 Meemu 161
Bell, HCP 17, 20, 165, 169 cruises North Male’
bicycle travel 103 diving safari 64 Atoll 107-9
birds 39, 112 dolphin 53 Rasdhoo Atoll 134-6
boat travel safari boat 58-9, 174 reefs 64-5
to/from the Maldives 102-3, culture 25-8, 31, 32-3 South Male’ Atoll 128
184-5 customs 86 thilas 65
within the Maldives 186 customs regulations 30, 175, 183 Vaavu 159-60
boat-building 150 cycling 103 wrecks 65, 66
 198 Index (D-K) I n d e x ( L- S ) 199

diving 50-1, 63-79, 5, 8 Foammulah 166, 167 Himmafushi 106 L Grand Friday Mosque 93-4, 8 Rasdhoo Atoll 134-7
costs 68 food 53-7, 84-5, 100-2 history 17-24 Laamu 165 Old Friday Mosque 92-3 reefs 64-5
courses 66-7, 175 etiquette 84, 86 1988 coup 21 lacquer work 35-6, 5 motorcycle travel 186 religion 30-4, see also Islam
emergencies 70 Maldivian 56, 85-6 2004 tsunami 23-4, 45 land reclamation 89, 96 Muleeaage 94 resort
equipment 67-8 vegetarian 56, 86 Black Friday 23 Hulhumale’ 45, 104-5 Muli 161 activities 50-3
insurance 70 Friday Mosque 165 British influence 20-1 Reethi Rah 125 museums beaches 60
planning 57 fruit bats 38 independence 21 Latheef, Jennifer 23 National Museum 93 drinks 53-7
resorts 49, 54-5 full board 57 Portuguese rule 18 legal matters 177 music 34 entertainment 57-9
safety 69-70, 175 fully independent travellers 14, 180 Thakurufaanu brothers 19 lesbian travellers 176 etiquette 26
seasons 12, 66 Addu Atoll 167 WWII 20 Lhaviyani 155-8 N food 53-7, 85-6
diving safaris 64 costs 52 Hithadhoo 170 literature 34, see also books Naifaru 155 information 52, 57, 173-4
dolphin cruises 53 day trips 50 holidays 13, 176-7 Nalandhoo 150 ratings 54-5
dolphins 43 Equator Village 171 honeymooners 48, 49, 57 M Napoleonfish 79, 75 tourism 51
INDEX

INDEX
drinks 85-7, see also coffee, Fihalhohi Resort 128-30 hotels 98-102, 174 magazines 179 Naseem, Evan 22-3 resort types
water, wine Male’ 88 Hukuru Miskiiy 92-3 Magoodhoo 161 National Museum 93 diving 49
driving, see car travel Funadhoo 105 Hulhule’ 104 Mahibadhoo 137 national parks see Protected Marine ecotourism 49
Hulhumale’ 45, 104-5 Majeediyya Carnival 96-8 Areas luxury 48, 59-60
E G Hulhumeedhoo 170-1 Male’ 88-103, 90-1, 94, 7 newspapers 28, 179 nature 48
economy 17, 25, 27-8 Gaaf Alif 165-6 human rights 22, 23 accommodation 98-102 Noonu 150 romantic 49
education 27, 117, 123 Gaaf Dhaal 166 beach 96-8 North Male’ Atoll 106-27, 108 water villas 48-9
El Niño 22, 42 Gaafaru Falhu 127 I food 100-2 accommodation 109-27 resorts 47, 54-5, 126, 8, 118 see also
electricity 179 Gadhdhoo 165 immigration 183 history 89 Northern Atolls 147, 149 Resorts subindex
embassies 176 Gan 159, 169, 170 independent travellers, see fully houses 93 northern tourism zone 151 Ari Atoll 138-46
emergencies 70, see also inside travel to/from 172 independent travellers medical services 90-1 North Male’ 109-27
front cover travel within 172 inhabited islands 174 self-catering 102 O Northern Atolls 148, 152, 153-5,
entertainment 57-9, 102 gay travellers 176 insurance 70, 177 shopping 102 Old Friday Mosque 92-3 156-8
environmental issues 37, 43-6 Gayoom, Maumoon Abdul 17, 94 Internet access 177 sights 92-6 opening hours 174 South Male’ 128-33
coral bleaching 22, 42 Black Friday, & 23, 24 Internet resources 15, 29 travel to/from 102-3 Southern Atolls 160-1, 163-4, 171
ecotourism 49 presidency 16, 21-2, 28 Islam 17-18, 25, 30-4, see also travel within 103 P restaurants 100-2, see also food
endangered species 39-40 tourism, & 17, 37 al Barakat, Abu walking tour 96-8, 97 painting 35 rock cod 78, 74
environment protection 60, 71 geography 37-8 customs regulations 30 Manadhoo 150 parks Rubbish Island 105
sea levels 16 geology 38, 41 etiquette 26 manta rays 43 Kuda Bandos Reserve 105
etiquette 26, 84, 86 giris 65 Five Pillars of 30-1 map legend 204 Sultan’s park 93 S
exchange rates, see inside front global warming 44-5 holidays 176-7 maps 89, 177-8, 10 parrotfish 77-8, 74 safari boat cruises 58-9, 174
cover Gnaviyani 166-7 Mohammed 30 Maradhoo 170 passports 183 sailing 53, 120
Goidhoo 152 prayer times 31 markets 95, 117 planning 12 scuba diving, see diving
F gold 36 Ramazan 31, 176 measures 179 children 60 sea levels 44-5
Faafu 161-3 government 16, 19-20, 21 Islamic Centre 93-4 Medhu Ziyaarath 94 costs 13, 52 seaplanes 186
Faridhoo 148 Grand Friday Mosque 93-4, 8 itineraries 92 Medhufushi 161 day trips 50 sharks 42, 188, 76
Fenfushi 137 Guraidhoo 165 medical services 90-1, 187 resorts 47, 52, 57 reef sharks 78, 74
ferries 186 J diving 70 plants 40, 118 Shaviyani 150
festivals 176-7 H jewellery 36 Meemu 161 politics 16, 25, 28 shipping industry 27
Feydhoo 170 Haa Alif 147-8 metric conversions, see inside resort boycott 47 shipwrecks 65, 66, 127, 150, 169
fish 40, 42, see also individual Haa Dhaal 148-50 K front cover polyps 40 shopping 102
species half-board 57 Kaashidhoo 127 mobile phones 180 population 25, 28 snapper 78, 74
fish identification guide 72-9 hawittas 17, 148-50, 165, Kadhoo 165 Mohammed 30 postal services 179-80 snorkelling 50-1, 61-3
fish market 95, 98 166 Kanditheem 150 money 13, 178-9, see also inside poverty 16 equipment 63
fishing 27, 45, 50, 98, 150, 122 health 187-8 kandus 65 front cover prodemocracy 23, 25, 28 lessons 62-3
Five Pillars of Islam 30-1 diving 69-70 Kelaa 148 cash 178 Protected Marine Areas 43, 71 safety 63
flutemouth 77, 75 insurance 177 Keyodhoo 159 exchange 179 sites 61-2
vaccinations 187 Kudabandos 105 transfers 178 R soccer 32
000 Map pages herons 39 Kudahuvadhoo 163 moorish idol 77, 74 Raa 150-2 song 34
000 Photograph pages Heyerdahl, Thor 17, 18, 150, 162, Kuludhuffushi 148 mosques 95, 161-2 radio 179 South Male’ Atoll 127-33, 129
165, 166 Kumundhoo 148 Friday Mosque 165 Ramazan 31, 176 accommodation 128-33
 © Lonely Planet Publications
200 Index (S-W) I n d e x ( R e s o r t s ) 201

Southern Atolls 159, 160 turtles 39-40, 76 Bodu Huraa 132 Nika Hotel 55, 144 Shangri-La Maldives Resort & Spa Vadoo 55, 131
southern tourism zone 162 TV 179 Bolifushi 54, 130 Olhuveli Beach & Spa 55, 131 171-2 Vakarufalhi 55, 143
spa treatments 51-3, 60 Club Faru 113, 119 One & Only Kanuhura 55, 157-8 Soneva Fushi 55, 154 Velavaru 55, 164
speedboats 186 U Club Med Kani 54, 114 One & Only Reethi Rah 55, 125 Soneva Gili 55, 126-7 Velidhu 55, 139
sports 32-4, see also individual sports Ugoofaaru 150 Club Rannalhi 54, 130 Palm Beach 55, 157 Summer Island Village 55, 111-12 Veligandu 55, 136
stingrays 43, 78, 188, 75 unicornfish 79, 75 Coco Palm Boduhithi 127 Paradise Island 55, 115 Sun Island 55, 144 Vilamendhoo 55, 143
stonefish 188 Utheemu 148 Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu 155 Ranveli Beach Resort 43, 155 Taj Coral Reef 55, 114-15 Villivaru 132
storytelling 34 Coco Palm Kudahithi 127 Reethi Beach 55, 153 Taj Exotica 55, 132-3 Vilu Reef 55, 164
Sultan’s park 93 V Cocoa Island 54, 133 Rihiveli Beach 55, 131-2 Thudufushi 141 W Retreat & Spa 145
sunburn 175 Vaavu 159-61 Dhiggiri 54, 160-1 Royal Island 55, 153-4 Thulhaagiri 55, 110 White Sands Resort & Spa 55, 140
surf breaks 80-1, 80, 119 vacations 13, 176-77 Dhoni Mighili 54, 145-6
house breaks 81-2 vedis 186, 124 Dhonveli Beach 54, 112
surf travel operators 83 vegetarian travellers 56, 86 Ellaidhoo 54, 139
surfing 12, 53, 79-83 Veymandhoo 165 Embudu Village 54, 128
INDEX

INDEX
surfaris 80, 82 Viligili 103-4 Equator Village 14, 54, 171
weather 80 visas 182, see also passports, travel Eriyadu 54, 114
surgeonfish 78-9, 75 permits Fihalhohi 54, 129-30
sweetlips 77, 75 visual arts 35 Filitheyo 54, 163
Four Seasons Kuda Huraa 127
T W Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru 154-5
taxis 103 walking tours 96-8, 97 Full Moon 54, 113-14
teashops 56, 85-6, 100 water 37, 44, 49, 56, 85 Fun Island Resort 132
telephone services 180 water sports 53, 118, 122 see Gangehi Island Resort 141
tetrapod walls 96 also individual sports Gasfinolhu 127
Thaa 165 weather 12-13, 175 Giravaru 109-10
Thakurufaanu, Mohammed 18, 19 diving 66 Hakuraa Club 54, 161
tomb 94-5 surfing 80 Halaveli 54, 139
Theemuge 97, 117 weaving 35, 166 Helengeli 54, 111
theft 175 websites, see Internet resources Hilton Maldives 54, 144-5
Thilafushi 105 weights 179 Holiday Island 54, 140-1
thilas 65 Whale Submarine 95-6 Huvafen Fushi 54, 125-6
Thoddoo Island 134 whale watching 53 Island Hideaway 54, 148
time 180, 202-3 whales 43 Kandooma 132
tipping 178-9 wildlife 38-43, see also individual Kihaadhuffaru 54, 153
toilets 180 species Komandoo 54, 157
tourism 51, 168 wildlife watching 53 Kudarah 55, 144
boycott 47 windsurfing 53, 6 Kuramathi Blue Lagoon 55, 136
development 159 wine 86 Kuramathi Cottage & Spa 55, 136
economy, & 21, 27 women in the Maldives 32-3 Kuramathi Maldives 136
environmental impact 45-6 women travellers 182 Kuramathi Village 55, 136
tour operators 59, 83 wood carving 35 Kuredu 55, 156
tourist information 180 wrasse 79, 75 Kurumba Village 55, 113
tours 12, 58-9, see also day trips, Laguna Beach 55, 130
walking tours RESORTS Lily Beach 55, 142-3
travel agents 83, 91-2 Alimatha Aquatic 54, 161 Lohifushi 55, 109
travel permits 181 Anantara 132 Maafushivaru 143-4
travel to/from the Maldives 183-5 Angaga 54, 142 Maayafushi 55, 138-9
travel within the Maldives 185-6 Angsana 50, 54, 116 Machchafushi 55, 143
travellers cheques 179 Asdu Sun Island 109 Madoogali 55, 139-40
triggerfish 79, 74 Athuruga 141 Makunudu 55, 112-13 © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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