Lesson 5 Clothing Construction

Lesson 5
BODY MEASUREMENTS
Introduction
In order to construct garments that fit well, body measurements must be taken with precision. You
can draft original patterns based on these measurements which can be used as the basis of a variety
of styles. If you do not want to take the trouble of drafting your own patterns, you may buy
commercial patterns, but to select the pattern of correct size and later to make pattern adjustments
to fit your figure you have to know your own measurements. Garment cutting is based on
measurements. So it is very important for a dress-maker to know how to take correct
measurements.
Learning Objectives
At the end of this lesson, you are expected to;

 Take horizontal and vertical body measurement for garment making.
 2 Take horizontal and vertical measurement from readymade garment.
 3. Take horizontal and vertical measurement from standard chart for garment making.
 4. Calculate all body measure from chest measurement.
Points to remember while measuring:
1. Try to know the customer’s requirements regarding the fit, style, shape, pockets, collars, buttons,
seam finish etc. Before taking measurements. A preliminary talk with the customer, showing fashion
pictures and stitched garments will help one to understand him.
2. Observe the figure carefully and if any deviation from the proportionate is found, do not simply
remember but record it in the order book, without giving any idea of the deformity.
3. The person to be measured should stand erect, but in a natural pose, in front of a mirror.
4. Measurements must be taken comfortably, without pulling the tape too tight or loose.
5. The measurements must be taken with proper order and with a certain sequence.
6. All girth measures should be taken tightly, as ease for movement is included in the draft.
7. The measurements should be taken over a smooth fitting foundation garment and never over
bulky garments.
8. Before taking measurements, tie a cord or string around the waist.
9. Hold the tape parallel to the floor for Horizontal measurement, and perpendicular to the floor for
vertical measurements.
10. To avoid any mistakes, take the measurements twice.
PREPRATION FOR MEASURING
For taking the measurements , use a good quality measuring tape which is sturdy and not stretch. It
should however be too stiff – it should be pliable. The metal end of the tape should be used for
vertical measurements and the other end for horizontal and circumference measurements. The
measurements should be taken over a smooth fitting foundation garment and never over bulky
garments. Before taking measurements, tie a cord or string around the waist. Next, take a ¼” wide
tape and cast it around your armhole. This will
make it easier to measure width of shoulders,
armscye depth etc. Stand erect with the arms
hanging straight at the sides while measurements
are being made by the sides while measurements
are being made by someone else. (it is possible
though less convenient and less accurate to take
your own measurements). Take snug
measurements rather than tight or loose ones.
Hold the tape parallel to the floor for horizontal
measurements, and perpendicular to the floor for
vertical measurements. As the measurements are
taken, record them in a note book. The
measurements needed will depend on the type
and style of garments you are making and the age
and sex of the intended user.
LADIES MEASUREMENT
Bodice measurements:
1. Bust: Measurement around the fullest part of

the bust raising the measuring tape slightly to a
level just below the shoulder blades at the back.
2. Waist: measure snugly around the waist (where

you tied the cord) keeping the tape parallel to the
floor.
3. Neck: measure around the neck, passing the

tape just above the collar bone in front and along the base of the neck at the back.
4. Shoulder: measure for the neck joint to the arm joint along the middle of the shoulder (A to B in
Fig. 1a).
5. Front waist length: measure down from neck at highest point of shoulder to waist line through the
fullest part of the bust(A to D IN Fig.1 a)
6. Shoulder to bust: measure down from highest point of shoulder to tip of bust (A to D n Fig. 1a).
7. Distance between bust points: measure in the horizontal direction, the distance between the two
bust points (D to E in Fig. 1a).
Note: Measurements 6 and 7 are needed for locating the position of darts.
8. Back width or across back measurement: measure across the back from armhole to armhole
about 3 inches below base of neck (P to Q in Fig. 1b).
9. Back waist length: measure from the base of neck at the centre back to waist line (R to S in Fig.
1b).
10.Armscye depth: measure from base of neck at centre back to a point directly below it and in the
level with the bottom of the arm where it joints the body(R to T in Fig. 1b)
Sleeve Measurements:
11. Upper arm circumference: Measure around the fullest part of the arm.
12. Lower arm: Measure around the arm at desired level corresponding to lower edge of sleeve.
13. Elbow circumference: Measure around the arm at elbow.
14. Wrist: Measure around the wrist.
15. Sleeve length: For the short sleeve length, measure down from tip of shoulder at top of arm to
desired length of sleeve (B to F in Fig. 1a). For elbow length sleeve measure from top of arm to
elbow point (B to G in Fig. 1a). For full length, bend the elbow slightly and measure down from top of
arm to back of wrist passing the tape over the elbow point (B to H in Fig.1a).
Skirt Measurements
16. Waist: Same as for bodice.
17. Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip horizontally . (This level will be about 7 to 9
inches below the waist for an average figure )
18. Waist to hip: Measure down from waist at centre back to fullest part of the hip (S to U in Fig. 1b)
19. Skirt length: Measure down the centre back from waist to desired length of skirt (S to V in Fig.
1b). Length from the waist to the floor can be taken at the same time and the difference between
the two noted. This difference will give the number of inches the skirt is above the floor level. After
taking your measurements, compare them with the “
Sample measurements for ladies garments” given in table
1. Any measurements which appears too small or exaggerated must be rechecked at once.
CHILDREN’S MEASUREMENTS
Till 5 years, measurements are the same for boys and girls. From
6 -12 years the measurements listed in the table are girls measurements. Some additional
measurements for children’s are listed here.
1. Thigh girth: Measure around the widest part of thigh. This measurement is useful while stitching
children’s short pants, girls bloomers etc., especially if you are inserting elastic in the thigh part of
the garment.
2. Cervical height: Take the height vertically from the nape of the neck to the ground.
3. Crotch length: Measure from the centre back waist under the crotch to the centre front waist. This
measurement is useful for pants, pyjamas etc.
4. Frock length: Measure down from neck at highest point of shoulder to desired length along the
front.
5. Chest: For children and men, bust measurements explained under ladies measurements is
referred to as ‘chest measurement’.
Round Measure
1. Upper arm: This is taken around arm at the armpit level, keeping the arm bent,
2. Elbow: It is taken around the front of the elbow with the arm bent.
3. Round wrist: It is taken around the wrist joint.

SAMPLE MEASUREMENTS FOR LADIES GARMENTS
Application:
Task 1
(i) INFANT WEAR (0-6months)
LAYETTE SET NAPKIN Napkins should be made of soft

absorbent fabric. They may be made in triangular or
square shape. Nowadays the square shape is preferred
as it gives better appearance when pinned on. A 20ʺ X
20ʺ or 24ʺ X 24ʺ square is a good size for a napkin. If
thin fabrics like old flour sack are used, the size should
be 20ʺX40ʺ. This can be folded through the centre to
make it a 20ʺ square. Nowadays readymade napkins in
different shapes are available in the market.
FOLDING AND PINING THE NAPKIN
The steps in folding the napkin in this style, follow the

steps 1 to 4 and these show how to pin it on. (Note
that the size of the folded napkin may be adjusted by
positioning the folds CF and CE suitably. To reduce the
napkin size for example, make the folds so that CB and CE
overlap)
Task 2.
BIB
Bib should be made of absorbent washable cotton material such as

towelling fabric (with uncut pie weave as in the case of Turkish towels).
Materials required: Fabric length 9ʺ (23cms), width 7ʺ (18cms), Bias tape 1
meter. (This may be prepared from any available scraps of matching fabric).
Drafting, cutting and stitching: In the following fig ABCD represents 9ʺx7ʺ
fabric folded lengthwise along BC so that AB= 3 ⅟2ʺ and AD=9ʺ. Mark
BE=BF=13 /4ʺ and draw the neckline EF as shown. Mark D1 1 1/ 2ʺ inside D
in the direction shown and connect AD1C. Round off the bib near A through
A1 as shown if desired.
Stitching: Leaving the neckline edge, finish the remaining sides of the
bib with bias binding. Next stitch bias binding around the neckline
curve, extending each end of binding about 8ʺ beyond point E for ties.
An applique design may be attached to enhance the appearance of the
bib.
For point sytem : See Rubrics
Task 3: Measure to fit ( video documentation send to our fb page )
Find your pair and take your body measurement according from you have learned in this
lesson.(note all measurements must be in English or Imperial system of measurement)
CLOSURE
W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well
Well done! You have just finished Lesson 5.

Lesson 5 Clothing Construction

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Lesson 5

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to;

Points to remember while measuring:

8. Before taking measurements, tie a cord or string around the waist.

10. To avoid any mistakes, take the measurements twice.

PREPRATION FOR MEASURING

1. Bust: Measurement around the fullest part of

2. Waist: measure snugly around the waist (where

3. Neck: measure around the neck, passing the

13. Elbow circumference: Measure around the arm at elbow.

14. Wrist: Measure around the wrist.

16. Waist: Same as for bodice.

Sample measurements for ladies garments” given in table

3. Round wrist: It is taken around the wrist joint.

(i) INFANT WEAR (0-6months)

LAYETTE SET NAPKIN Napkins should be made of soft

FOLDING AND PINING THE NAPKIN

The steps in folding the napkin in this style, follow the

Bib should be made of absorbent washable cotton material such as

For point sytem : See Rubrics

Task 3: Measure to fit ( video documentation send to our fb page )

W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well

Well done! You have just finished Lesson 5.

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