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Catbox: A Puddle Duck Racer by Jim Michalak
Catbox: A Puddle Duck Racer by Jim Michalak
By Jim Michalak
CAT BOX HULL SPECIFICATIONS
1. Bow transom from 1/4" plywood. Top and bottom edges framed with 3/4 x
1-1/2" lumber with bevels as shown. Mark centerlines boldly.
2. Stern transom from 1/4" plywood. Top and bottom edges framed with 3/4"
x 1-1/2" lumber. Bottom stick is beveled as shown. Mark centerlines boldly.
3. Sides from 1/4" plywood to pattern shown. Top and end edges framed
with 3/4" x1-1/2" lumber as shown. Bottom edge to be framed with 3/4" x 1"
lumber hoping it will take the curve without breaking. Make a lefty and a
righty.
4. Inner walls from 1/4" plywood to pattern shown. Same framing as with
3. Make a lefty and a righty. These are identical with the sides except that
they will need large openings to allow for airing in storage. The openings
must be closed with deck plates during sailing to provide emergency
buoyancy.
Preferred assembly will be upside down. Notch the ends of the sides and
inner walls to match the framing sticks on the transoms. Prop the sides and
inner walls upright and attach the transoms with glue and nails, use
thickened epoxy if you need to since gaps here might result in leaks later.
Check that all is straight and untwisted and walk away until the glue cures.
5. Bottom from 1/4" plywood. Attach with nails and glue. I think I would
do this by attaching first to the stern transom and working forward. You
might dry fit it with sheetrock screws first to get a feel for it. After
glue cures radius the edges and armor the bottom with a layer of 6 ounce
fiberglass set in epoxy with a double layer around the chine edges say
working up about 3" above the chine. No reason to glass the rest. Turn the
hull upright. Put a fillet of thickened epoxy around all inner corners along
the bottom to prevent water seepage there. Paint the areas which will be
sealed up when the decks are installed.
AT THIS POINT BE SURE TO ADVANCE TO THE SAIL RIG SPECIFICATIONS AND INSTALL
THE DAGGERBOARD WELL.
6. Decks from 1/4" plywood. I would install these with latex caulk and
screws to allow for future removal.
7. Bow plate from 3.4" x 6-1/2" lumber. Attach with caulk and large
screws.
8. Stern plate from 3/4" x 5" lumber. Attach with caulk and large
screws.
C. Tiller from 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" lumber. Best to put a small through bolt
just ahead of the slot for the rudder to prevent splitting.
E. Daggerboard well with side from 1/4" plywood. End stick from 3/4" x 1"
width so that the well is at least 1/8" wider than the daggerboard to
prevent jamming. The top edge is 1-1/2" square trough bolted to the top of
the side box. Bottom edge framed with 3/4" x 1-1/2" lumber. The slot in the
bottom for the daggerboard might be just large enough to prevent jamming due
to wood swelling, say 1/8" larger than the board and would cut that before
installing the well structure.
F. Mast step from 1-1/2" thick lumber as shown on top of a piece of 3/4"
lumber that will take any downthrust of the mast (the halyard usually pulls
down on the mast).
G. Mast partner from four layers of 1/4" plywood to finish 1" thick. Bolt
in place and tinker with this to trim the helm if you need to.
Sail rig is supposed to be the same as the old Sunfish, not sure if I got
the dimensions right. Anyway, Sunfish sails are still being made if you
don't want to make your own.
I. Yard and boom from two laminations of 3/4" lumber to finish 1-1/2"
square.
CATBOX DRAWINGS
General Arrangements
Plan View
Side Elevation – Stern transom and sidebox details
Bow Transom Details
Side Layout
Plywood Panel Layout
Daggerboard Case Front and Side Views and mast step/partner details
Top View - Mast Partner and Daggerboard Case
Rudder and Tiller
Sail and Spars
General Arrangements
Plan View
Side Elevation – Stern transom and sidebox details
Bow Transom Details
Side Layout
Plywood Panel Layout
Daggerboard Case Front and Side Views and mast step/partner details
Top View - Mast Partner and Daggerboard Case
Rudder and Tiller
Sail and Spars